Gc
942.5902
CllScl
1892201
REYNOLDS HISTORICAL
geJ^^ealogy collection
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY
3 1833 00721 5509
f
OLD PLANS OF CAMBRIDGE
1574 TO 1798
RICHARD LYNE,. GEORGE BRAUN, JOHN HAMOND,
THO:viAS FULLER, DAVID LOGGAN
AND
WILLIAM CUSTANCE
REPRODUCED IN FACSIMILE
WITH DESCRIPTIVE TEXT
BY
J. WILLIS CLARK, M.A., Hon. D.Litt. (Oxford),
LATE REGISTRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY,
FORMERLY FELLOW OF TRINITY COLLEGE
AND I <• !
ARTHUR GRAY, M.A., . '
MASTER OF JE5US COLLEGE
PART I : TEXT
WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS
CAMBRIDGE
BOWES & BOWES
1921
1832201
: ERRATUM
In the list of plans forming Tart II of the work, the reproduction of
the more perfect central slieet of Hamond's Plan should be number 4,
and the succeeding plans should be renumbered 5, 6, 7, and 8
respectively.
PTJBLJSHERS.
CAMBiilVGE.
LONDON: MACMILLAN & Co., Ltd.
GLASGOW: MACLEHOSE JACKSOxN & Co.
[Co/:_yn^A(]
■ s^-
^....
TO THE MEMORY OF
JOHN WILLIS CLARK
AND
ROBERT BOWES
'THE ONLY BEGETTERS' OY A WORK
WHICH THE MEASURE OF THEIR DAYS GRANTED THEM NOT TO SEE
'ABSOLUTE IN ITS NUMBERS,' AS THEY CONCEIVED IT.
827084
PREFACE
THE reproductions of the Six Old Plans of Cam-
bridge which are contained in the Portfolio were
announced in May 1909 as to be issued with accom-
panying description by the late Mr J. W. Clark,
Registrary of the University. The death of Mr Clark
and the interruption of the War have caused a long
delay in the completion of the work as originally de-
signed.
At the time of his death Mr Clark had written and
corrected for the press the descriptions of the plans of
Lyne and Braunius, but had only brought his account
of Hamond's plan, which is the most interesting and
valuable of the series, as far as the description of the
site of Pembroke Hall and the adjoining grounds.
I have made no alterations in his work, except by
adding a few notes distinguished by enclosing brackets,
and have endeavoured, as far as was possible, to con-
tinue it on the lines therein indicated.
It is greatly to be regretted that Mr Clark did not
live to complete the design which had been the labour
and delight of his last years. The account which he
has given in the Architectuj-al History (I, Introduction,
pp. ci — civ) of Hamond's plan indicates the importance
which he attached to it, though when that work was
written, he was unaware of the existence of the ex-
tremely interesting central Sheet which came to him
from the collection of the late Mr J. E. Foster and is
now in the Bodleian Library. The issue of these plans
vi PREFACE
was to be the corollary of Mr Clark's great Archi-
tectural Histo)'y of Cambridge ( 1 886), and no other man
had the title or the capacity to attempt what he fore-
shadowed in that work.
Since 1909 death has also removed Professor
McKenny Hughes and Sir William Hope, who had
done much to illustrate the history and antiquities of
Cambrldcre and whose assistance in their several de-
partments of knowledge would have been invaluable
in continuing Mr Clark's work.
Professor Marr has very kindly furnished for the
Introduction the section on the Geology of Cambridge,
and for valuable assistance in other matters I am in-
debted to the Reverend Dr Stokes, Mr G. J. Gray
and Mr George Goode, M.i\.., of the University
Library. I also gratefully record the great interest
shown by the late Mr Robert Bowes in the beginning
and continuation of the work, and the patience with
which he submitted to the long delay in its publication.
To his friendly help I owe only less than to Mr Clark
himself. My part has been one of labour, but also of
pleasure and love.
ARTHUR GRAY
February 17, 19c l
PUBLISHERS' NOTE
For permission to photograph Hamond's Plan in the
Bodleian Library (the only known complete copy, from
which our reproduction is taken), we are indebted to
the late E. W. B. Nicholson, M.A., Bodley's Librarian.
Our thanks are also due to the Syndics of the Cam-
bridge University Press, the Council of the Cambridge
Antiquarian Society, and Messrs. Macmillan&Co., Ltd.,
for the loan of illustrations from various publications,
which are reproduced in the text of this work. Last
but not least, we wish to acknowleds^e the courtesv and
patience shown by the University Press and the care
taken by their staff in connection with a work which
commenced some fourteen years ago.
BOWES & BOWES
14 March 1921
PART I: TEXT
CONTENTS
PAGE
INTRODUCTION xi
THE RIVER AT CAMBRIDGE xi
THE CASTLE xvii
THE KING'S DITCH xxiii
THE GEOLOGY OF CAMBRIDGE .... XXX
THE ARMS OF THE UNIVERSITY AND THE TOWN . XXXvi
CHAP.
I. BIRD'S-EYE VIEW BY RICHARD LYNE, 1574 • i
II. BIRD'S-EYE VIEW FROM GEORGE BRAUN'S
CIVITATES ORB IS TERRA RUM, 1575 . . 18
III. PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 .... 23
IV. BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF 1634 FROM THOMAS
FULLER'S HISTORY OF THE UNIVERSITY 131
V. SURVEY BY DAVID LOGGAN, 1688 . . .136
VI. SURVEY BY WILLIAM CUSTANCE, 1798 . . 149
INDEX 152
b2
PLANS CONTAINED IN THE PORTFOLIO
I. The bird's-eye view drawn by Richard Lyne in 1574, to illustrate
the History of the University by Dr John Keys, or Caius, which was
published in that year. The view is 16J inches high by ii| inches
wide.
II. The bird's-eye view from George Braun's Civitates Orbis Terrarum,
1575, as it appears in Jansson's Urbiion Septentrior.aliufn Eurcps
TabulcE, Amsterdam, n.d.
III. The plan by John Hamond, of Clare Hall, dated 22 February, 1592.
This is a bird's-eye view in nine sheets, drawn after a careful survey,
made by Hamond himself. This plan is 3 feet io| inches high by
2 feet io| inches wide. It is accompanied by a reproduction of the
more perfect central sheet (No. 9) and a key plan to the several
sheets.
IV. The bird's-eye view annexed to the History of the University of
Camhidge, by Thomas Fuller, dated 1634. This view is 13 J inches
high by io| inches wide.
V. The survey made by David Loggan for his Cantabrigia Ilhtstrata,
and dated 1688, in two sheets. This survey is 15^ inches high by
2o| inches wide.
VI. The survey made by William Custance, Cambridge, and published
for him 21 May, 1798.
VII. A key-plan, based on the Ordnance Survey, to show the changes
which have taken place since the above ancient plans were drawn.
INTRODUCTION
THE RIVER AT CAMBRIDGE
The river, which beneath the Castle Hill, divides Cam-
bridge into a northern and a southern town, is formed by the
confluence of two principal streams v/hich unite about three
miles above the town, beyond the village of Trumpington. The
eastern of these tributaries comes from sources near Newport,
in Essex : the western has its main spring at Ashvveli, in
Hertfordshire. A third branch joins the united stream just
above the weir at Trumpington and rises at Bourn in Cam-
bridgeshire. Within the borough limits a fourth affluent, called
the Binn Brook, falls into the river, on its western side, a
short distance above the Great Bridge. Except by small boats
the river was never navigable beyond the mill-weirs above
Queens' College and at Newnham.
The ancient nam.e of the river was Grante," or Granta.
Grante is the name given to it by Felix of Crovvland (715 —
730) in his Life of St Gutldac. The suffixed e represents the
Anglo-Saxon cd, or c, meaning "v/ater." In the Anglo-Saxon
version of Bede's Ecclesiastical History (a translation made
before 900) the river is called "Granta stream." Bede, writing
of the year 6-ji, describes the site of the town as "a desolate
little city," and calls it Grantaceestir. The first mention of the
place after the town came into being is in the Anglo-Saxon
Chronicle, under the year 875, and it was then known as
Grantebr}-cgc. The bridge was, no doubt, a wooden structure
and had evidently come into existence between Gji and 875^
In deeds of the later middle ages the name given to the
river is often "the Rce," or "the Ee," and in and after 1372 it
' In a paper on Tke Foul and Bridge of Cambridge, C. A.S. Proc. and Comm.
xiv. pp. 126—139 (A. Gray), reasons are given for supposing that OfTa, king of
Mercia (758 — 796), was the builder of the bridge.
xii INTRODUCTION
appears as "the Cante^" : but "Granta" also continued in use.
With slight variations in spelling Grantebrige was in sole use
as the town's name until 1 142, and it was partially used until
1400. The earliest instances of the use of the name Cantebrig
occur in the latter part of the twelfth century. The modern
spelling, Cambridge, with euphonic change of nt to vi, does
not occur in documents until after 1400. Cam, as the river's
name, does not appear until about 1600-.
The plans of Lyne and Hamond show the course of the
river from points somewhat above the two mills near Queens'
College and that at Newnham. These mills were of very
ancient origin. At the time of the Domesday Survey Cam-
bridge had two mills — one belonging to the Abbot of Ely, the
other to Count Alan, a Breton follower of the Conqueror.
Picot, the sheriff, had also erected three mills, but it seems that
at least one of them was destroyed by the King's order on the
ground that it interfered with some other one^ It is likely that
Picot's mill, or mills, occupied the site of that which afterwards
was known as the King's Mill: in the reign of Henry II the
Sheriff of Cambridgeshire accounted at the royal exchequer for
a mill. The Abbot's Mill became the Bishop's ]\Iill after 1 109,
when the abbacy of Ely was converted into a bishopric. In
the Survey of the Town, made in 1278, there is mention of
three mills — the King's, the Bishop's, and a third belonging to
Sir William de Mortimer. The last was evidently the mill
at Newnham, for it was subject to tithe to Grantchester parish,
in which parish part of it is contained at the present day*. In
process of time the three mills were acquired by the burgesses,
^ "Cante" rimes with "Universitie" in some verses of Lydgate printed in
Mullinger's The University of Cambridge, i. Appendix A, p. 636.
' In his monograph, The Place Names of Cambridgeshire, C.A. S. 8vo. Pub-
lications, xxxvi., and in a later article, C. A. S. Tree, and Co/nm. xiv. pp. iii —
112, the late Professor Skeat has given the fullest account of the changes which
the names of the town and river have undergone.
3 Dr Stokes in his Communication on The Old Mills of Cambridge (C. A.S.
Proc. and Coinin. xiv. p. 182) following a suggestion of Professor Maitland,
TiT.vnship and Borough, p. 150, thinks that Picot only erected a third mill, in
addition to the other two: but the plurals aiiferiint and destritiint in the passage
from Domesday Book make this interpretation untenable.
* Stokes, as above, p. 184.
THE RIVER AT CAMBRIDGE xiii
and the King's and Bishop's Mills, which adjoined one another,
at last were contained under one roof, and are so represented
in the plans of Lyne and Hamond, who mark the combined
buildings as the King's Mill. Newnham Mill belonged to the
Mortimer family, who held the manor of Newnham, and from
them it passed to Gonvile Hall and was afterwards leased to
the Town authorities^
At the present day the water is brought to the mills by
two cuts which are drawn from the upper river at the south
end of Sheep's Green, It is unknown when these cuts were
made, but undoubtedly they are of great antiquity. Their
banks are considerably higher than the surface of Sheep's
Green, at which low level are to be seen many old channels,
which represent the natural courses of the river: Hamond's plan
shows several of them. In Coe Fen, which lies on the eastern
side of the cut leading to the King's Mill, Lyne marks the Vicar's
Brook, which came from Trumpington Ford, at the first mile-
stone on the London Road, and joined the river, as it still does,
opposite what is called Robinson Crusoe's Island. About the
year 1610 a channel was cut from this brook, along which the
water was carried to the King's Ditch at the crossing of
Trumpington Street and Mill Lane. In the same year in
which Lyne's plan was made (1574X Dr Feme, Master of Peter-
house, writing to Lord Burghley, advocated this diversion as a
means of scouring the ditch".
Below the Mill Pit of the King's Mill both Lyne and Hamond
sliow that the river followed its present course. But there are
clear indications in both plans that this course, in great part,
was not the only, nor indeed the natural one. The present
straightened channel and the steepness of its banks on the
eastern side are demonstrative of artificial adaptation. If the
^ The history' of the mills is extremely obscure. Even the exhaustive evidence
given by Dr Stokes in the work just cited fails to throw much light on their
origin, ownership and subsequent transferences. The Mortimers were connected
with the Zouche family, and there was a Zouche's Mill — whether or not to be
identified with Newnham .Mill is not clear. There seem to have been two mills
at Newnham, or perhaps only two mill-wheels, as Hamond's plan indicates.
Lyne's plan in an eccentric way shows a mill on the Grantchester bank extending
only half-way across the cut. * See pp. 7, 3.
xiv INTRODUCTION
river pursued its natural course, as it still does in times of
exceptional flood, it would spread itself over the ground be-
tween its present western bank and the road which leads from
Newnham to Westminster College. These grounds are still
in parts v'ery little raised above the river surface, and there is
historical evidence that, before they were converted into College
gardens, their level was considerably lower than it is to-day'.
Of the older courses of the river the two plans furnish
valuable evidence. Half-way between the Mill Pit at Newnham
and that which is below the King's ?ilill Hamond shows an
island, and hereabouts, at a point in the northern bank, both
plans show a branch of the river which passes under the
western of the two Small Bridges, and, skirting the western side
of Queens' College over-river grounds, joins the present river
course opposite Bodley's Building in King's College. It is now
an insignificant and stagnant trench, but it was a considerable
waterway in 1474, when the Town granted to Queens' College
the land which is now the P'ellows' Garden. In the conveyance
the ground is described as lying between the common river
coming down from the King's and Bishop's Mills and the river
running down from Newnham Mill": moreover the mayor and
bailiffs reserved to themselves the right of coming in boats along
either river. At the same time the College undertook to widen
the river on the eastern side of this ground, so that it should be
51 feet in breadth, which is its present width. That this
eastern branch of the river existed in early times is probable^:
but an inspection of the Ordnance map at once suggests that,
in its present width and direction, this branch is an artificial
prolongation of the channel above the King's Mill*.
' Evidence of the raising of these grounds is collected in The Dual Or{gi7i of
the Tcrj.n 0/ Cambridge, C.A.S. Quarto Publications, 190S, pp. 18—20 (A. Gray).
^ Cooper, Annals, v. p. 266.
•■' In 1396 we read of the existence of two bridges, known as Small Bridges,
one of which was in the position of the present bridge, at the end of Silver Street,
the other spanning the stream which crossed the road near the house which is
now called the Granary. They were wooden structures, and the latter of them,
as shown by Lyne and Ilamond, was unprotected by a hand-rail.
* In 1756, when the foundation of the Essex building of Queens' College was
being prepared, the kerb of a well was discovered within the eastern arm of the
river, and two feet below its bed.
THE RIVER AT CAMBRIDGE xv
There is evidence that all the colleges between Queens' and
St John's have been built on ground which has been artificially
raised, and that, before the erection of the second court of
Queens' College, no attempt was made to build on the eastern
bank^ A deed of the middle of the thirteenth century con-
cerning a tenement in Mill Street, near the present site of
Clare College, mentions that it was 220 feet distant from a
trench (JossatumY-. As the distance from I\Iill Street to the river
was about 400 feet this fossatuni was clearly not the main
channel, but 180 feet east of it. Doubtless it was the trench
which was discovered in 1889, when the Latham building of
Trinity Hall was builtl
A continuation of this trench, no doubt, is to be found in
the channel, shown by Lyne and Hamond, which was the
eastern boundary of the island called Garret Hostel Green.
Lyne makes it branch from the main river at a point behind
Clare Hall. Hamond places its divergence just above Garret
Hostel Bridge. The Ditch was navigable, for in the fourteenth
century there were several hithes on its eastern side, and the
modification of it which was granted to ^Michaelhouse was for
tlie purpose of bringing merchandise to the College. Hamond
marks the northern outlet of the Ditch at a point nearly corre-
sponding to the north-west corner of Trinity College Library:
but at an earlier date it was further north and near the kitchen
garden of the IMaster of Trinity College\
In the days of Lyne and Hamond the grounds on the
western side of the river, between Queens' College Garden and
the New Court of St John's College, retained the swampy
character which they had from the earliest times in the history
of the Town. Though there was no lock on Jesus Green the
"shelves" which were an obstruction to navigation in the reign
of Elizabeth (I 578)', probably held up the water to something
* See the ver)- valuable Communication by Professor Hughes on Superficial
Deposits tinder Cambridge, C.A.S. Proc. and Comm. xi. pp. 393 — 423.
* See The Friary of St Kadegiind, Cainbridgc (A. Gray), C.A.S. 8vo. Pub-
lications, 1S9S, charter 1S7 on p. no.
' Maiden, History of Trinity Hall, pp. 23, 14.
* Arch. Hist. ii. pp. 405— 409. ' Cooper, Atmals, ii. 366.
xvi . INTRODUCTION
like its present level. No houses existed near this western
bank, and no hithes were placed on it: before the College
bridges were built no bridge crossed the main river between
Queens' College and the Great Bridge. Garret fiostel Bridge
is shown in Lyne's plan (1574), and is first mentioned in 1520^
Lyne shows it as a wooden bridge with a double rail, and it
merely connects the eastern bank with Garret Hostel Green :
a plank bridge crosses the main stream between the Green
and the western bank. Evidence of the original swampy nature
of the ground is seen in the large pond, or lake, which Hamond
shows in the over-river grounds of King's College, and in the
numerous fish ponds which cover the site of the New Court of
St John's College.
It may be noticed that in Hamond's plan the college
grounds on the eastern bank are all fenced next the river by
walls, mostly embattled. The only break in their continuity is
at the Town ground near Garret Hostel Bridge. The need for
such walls is not apparent at the present day. But their object
is explained by a provision in the Act of Parliament of 1703
for improving the navigation of the Cam. Therein it is enacted
that as of necessity barges and lighters m.ust be haled against
the stream by men or horses it should be law-ful for the water-
men to go without hindrance on the lands near the riverl
Though the hithes behind the colleges had disappeared before
Hamond's time there was still a large river traffic with the
mills. Loggan's view of St John's College shows several barges
proceeding up stream, and one of them is towed by a man on
the eastern bank. The walls in the plans of Lyne and Hamond
approach the waterside so closely that the haling-way must
have been narrow, and it was altogether interrupted by the
buildings at Queens' College which stand on the brink of the
river. In Ackerman's view of Clare Hall (181 5) a string of
barges is being drawn up stream by a man and horse who are
in the middle of the river.
^ Cooper, Annals, i. 304. ^ Ibid. iv. 62.
ARTHUR GRAY
THE CASTLE
[For more detailed accounts of the Castle and Roman
castrum the reader is referred to the Communications in C. A.S.
Proceedings by Professor Hughes, On the Castle Hill, viii.
pp. 173 — 212; by Sir William Hope, The Norman Origin of
Cambridge Castle, xi. pp. 324 — 345; and by myself, On the
Watercourse called Cambridge, ix, pp. 61 — "z^: also to Pro-
fessor C. C. Babington's Ancient Cambridgeshire, C. A.S. 8vo.
Publications, xx. 1883, and to articles by Professor Hughes,
The Castle Hill, 2ir\d by myself. The Coffin Stone of Etheldreda,
in Fasciculus J. IV. Clark Dicatus, 1909, pp. 240 — 264. These
works are referred to under their titles in the footnotes to this
section. A. G.]
The Castle mound and the earthworks adjoining it were
constructed on a natural promontory which forms the end of
a terrace reaching from Girton College and the Observatory
and abuts on the river near the Great Bridge. This promontory
consists of chalk overlying a thick bed of gault. At its end the
chalk was cut away to form a steeper scarp, and the material
was thrown up on the top to form the mounds
Cambridge, as its name implies, was the Town of the I^ridge,
not the Town of the Castle. The reason is obvious. There is
evidence of the existence of the Bridge in Saxon times : the
Castle was the erection of the Normans.
l^ut before the Saxon town came into existence there was
undoubtedly a Roman castrum near the river and presumably
on its northern bank. Bede- calls the place Grantaca:stir,
and the Anglo-Saxon translation of his Ecclesiastical History
(written in the ninthcentury)saysthatitwas"by Grantastream."
The same translation describes the site in 689 as " a ruined
Chester," clearly impl}'ing its Roman origin. Both Bede and
his translator tell us that it was walled with masonry. Portions
* Professor Hughes clearly explains the natuial and artificial features of the
Castle Hill in his Coniiminicatiun, C.A.S. Proc. and Comni. viii. pp. 173 — 175.
- Ecclesiastical History, iv. ly.
xviii INTRODUCTION
of a wall, consisting of Roman bricks, flints and ragstone, were
discovered in 1804 "near the turnpike gate leading to Hunting-
don," i.e. near the point where the Histon Road diverges from
the Huntingdon Road^ The castriun was perhaps a walled
town rather than a military camp. There can be little doubt
that the Castle site was contained in it, though it did not occupy
the whole of it. The raised terrace in Magdalene College
grounds, though mainly of much later construction, very likely
occupies the position of the southern rampart, and the earth-
work visible on Mount Pleasant seems to be part of the valhun
on the western side of the castnnn. The Roman road leading
to Huntingdon, which was the western boundary of the
Conqueror's Castle, thus ran through the Roman camp, dividing
it into two nearly equal halvesl
This is hardly the place to discuss the various theories which
have been advanced as to the character and dimensions of the
Roman camp and the existence of a pre-Roman stronghold on
the site. Nor need anything be said about a Saxon fortress which
some have supposed to have existed on the site of the Norman
Castle. Some timbered structure may possibly have stood there
before the Conquest : that it did exist there is no particle of
evidence, historical or material, to show^.
Castles, the name and the things, were introduced by the
Normans. hX Cambridge both Castle and Bridge were con-
trolled bv the Kino's officer, the sheriff, and were maintained
by taxes, called castle- ward and pontage, which were levied
' See the account of these and other supposed Roman remains in the Castle
area quoted by Professor Hughes in his Communication already cited, p. 1S9.
' In llamond's plan the bank on Mount Pleasant is indicated. Sir W. Hope,
in C..\.S. Proc. and Co»i7)i., ut supra, gives a_suggested plan of the Castle and
Roman camp. The camp occupied a somewhat steep slope, rising from 32 feet
al>ove Ordnance Level at the crossing of Castle Street and Chesterton Lane to
70 feet where the northern rampart crossed the Huntingdon Road.
' The late Professor Hughes strongly maintained that a Saxon fortress, which
he called a biirh, existed on the Castle mound in the ninth and following cen-
turies. He relied on a theory, since discredited, of Mr G. T. Clark in his Medi-jal
Mil-.taiy Architecture in Englami that the biirhs erected in the reign of Edward
the F.lder were of the nature of castles. The evidence collected by Sir W. Hope
is conclusive that a burh was not a fortress but a fortified town. Mr Allcroft in
his Earthwork in England, p. 3S1, draws attention to the com{)lete absence of
any tiaces in England of fortresses which can be ascribed to early Saxon times.
THE CASTLE xix
not on the townsmen but on particular estates in the district.
It has often been remarked, as a feature that looks more primi-
tive than the Conquest, that the Castle is not situated within
the limits of the borough, but is contained in the parish of
Chesterton, But no inference as to the existence of a pre-
Norman castle can be drawn from the circumstance. The ex-
clusion of the castle from the borough was a Norman arrange-
ment, of which other examples are seen at York, Colchester
and Norwich. In the Castle and its maintenance the townsmen
had no part or lot. Clearly its purpose was not to defend but
to over-awe the town.
According to Orderic the Conqueror planted castles at
Cambridge, Lincoln and Huntingdon in 1068. In the Domes-
day Survey it is stated that the first of the ten wards into which
the town was divided was reckoned as two in the Confessor's
time, but that 27 houses in it were destroyed to make the Castle.
Similar destructions for the same object are recorded in the
Survey at other towns\ Evidently the Castle was new and did
not take the place of an earlier fortress.
"Cambridge Castle," says Sir W. Hope, "was originally a
good and complete example of a mount-and-bailey castle. The
mount still exists to a height of about 40 feet above the
bailey... and is of the same dimensions as in many others of the
King's fortresses, having a diameter at the top of about 100 feet
and probably twice as much across the base. The area of the
bailey was apparently between three and four acres, which again
is a characteristic size of King William's castles. The bailey
was wholly on the north side of Castle Street, from which it
was entered, and the gate-house, so unfortunately destro\-ed
in 1840, no doubt occupied the site of the early Norman one,"
" Early Norman castles," says the same writer, " did not
consist of earthworks merely, but were defended by lines of
timber palisading along the crests of the banks and by a strong
wooden citadel on the top of the mount, which was also con-
nected by palisading with the defences of the bailey. Such
newly thrown up banks and mounts were not at first capable
* Sir W, Hope, CA.S. Proc. and Coi/im. xi. pp. 334, 335.
XX INTRODUCTION
of carrying the weight of walls and works of masonry. But
there was nothing to hinder stone buildings being set up in the
bailey."
Whatever the Norman Castle at Cambridge may have been,
it would seem that its building was not completed in the
Conqueror's reign. The Liber Elieusis^ states that after the
repulse of his first attack on the Isle of Ely, in 1070, King
William retired to the Castle of Cambridge, which had been
built two years earlier, and perhaps was so far completed that
he lodged in it. But though Henry III stayed at Cambridge
in 1 267, the L ibcr Memorandoriwi'' of Barnwell Priory expressly
mentions that Edward I was the first king who took up his
quarters there, in 1293, and the same authority records that
that king " began the Castle of Cambridge," apparently about
1283'. In the latter year the King caused a perambulation to
be made of the bounds of the castrum. The jurors of the shire
who made the perambulation claimed for the King the whole
area of the Roman camp, as well as the part between it and
the river: but it would seem that the King only asserted his
right to the Castle and its precincts.
The buildings, whether those of William or of Edward,
can hardly have been of a very substantial kind, for in 1367
Edward III issued a commission to enquire into the many
defects and dilapidations of the walls and towers. In 1441 it
was reported that "the old hall and a chamber next to it v/ere
in a state of ruin and wholly unroofed." In 1590, two years
before the date of Hamond's plan, it was described as "an old
ruined and decayed palace or castle" and "only used for keeping
prisoners in some of the vaults*." Hamond, in a note on the
third sheet of his plan, says "The Castle, though now ruinous,
shows clear evidence of royal magnificence."
Lyne's presentment of the Castle is conventional. Hamond's
view is probably more accurate, but unfortunately the sheet of
his plan which contains the Castle is badly blurred, and the
mount is not recognisable, though the ditch beneath it is clearly
' Ed. O. J. Stewart, i. p. 107.
» Ed. J. W. Clark, p. 1-27. ^ Ibid., p. 167.
♦ Professor Hughes in C.A.S. Proc. and Comm., viii. p. 197.
THE CASTLE xxi
shown. In the centre of the bailey is a building of some size
which was, perhaps, the hall. Two walls connect it with the
ends of the ditch. The ramparts of the bailey are defended
with a wall on all sides.
Loggan's plan of 1688, which is in close agreement with
that of distance of 1798, shows the alterations which were
made by the Parliament in 1643. The central building has
disappeared. To the north of the site which it occupied is seen
a large block, which served as barracks. There is a large
bastion at the north-eastern corner of the bailey, and smaller
ones at the north-west and south-east. Under the eastern ram-
part is a ditch, which is not in Hamond's plan. Except on the
side next the street the ramparts are lined with trees. In
Custance's plan no trees are shown and in their place a terrace
is marked, which, no doubt, was a platform for guns. In 1647
the Houses of Parliament ordered that the new works raised
about the Castle since 1643 should be "slighted and reduced
to the same condition they were in before the War,"
Bowtell, the antiquary, made a plan and sections of the
Castle fortifications as they appeared in 1785. The sole relic
of the old buildings was the gatehouse. He shows the ramparts
and bastions raised in 1643, and states that the height of the
former " from the bottom of the fosse, in a diagonal direction,
was full sixteen }-ards: the diameter of them, as measured from
the base line from the start of the rise on both sides, was "jo feet :
their perpendicular height from the level of the surface on which
they were raised was 17 feet 6 inches." The brick building
which had served as a barrack was occupied "partly as a Bride-
well for petty offenders, partly as a habitation for the keeper
of the Castle, till the year 1S06, when a new prison was built
with a convenient residence for the governour." In Bowtell's
plan the old barrack stands on the edge of the northern rampart,
occupying in part the platform made for guns in 1643. ^'^ served
as the County gaol, the Borough gaol being situated next the
Town Hall, in the street now called Union Street. The new
Shire Hall was opened in 1S42, about which time the old gate-
house was destroyed.
An engraving, made by Buck in 1730, shows the gatehouse
xxii INTRODUCTION
and mound as seen from the north-east. On the north-east
side of the mound it shows a ring of trees surrounding a hollow,
which, Bowtell says, was called "the Gallows Hole." Here-
abouts Loggan's plan marks a gallows. The hollow in which
the gallows was erected was part of a fosse which protected
the mound on its northern side. This fosse was filled in when
the foundations of the new prison were laid about 1802. At
that time the surface of the bailey was levelled and reduced in
height by four to ten feet. The materials, consisting largely of
ruins of the Castle and of domestic buildings, were thrown into
the fosse on the northern and eastern sides of the bailey.
ARTHUR GRAY
THE KING'S DITCH
The statement is made in the Chronicle of Barnwell Priory^
that in the year 1 267, at the time of the rising in the Isle of Ely,
King Henry III came to Cambridge with a large army and
then "caused gates to be built and ditches to be made encircling
the town." From this !t has been inferred in numerous books
about Cambridge that the King's Ditch was then first con-
structed, and it is generally supposed that it took its name
from Henry III. There is no warrant for this view of the
matter. The Ditch did not take its name from Henry III or
any particular King of England. It was called the King's
Ditch because, like the river, which was similarly described as
" the King's water," it was not controlled by the townsmen
and belonged to the seignory of the Crown-. As we have seen
already (p. xv) there was another King's Ditch at Cambridge
on the eastern side of the river and reaching from the back
of King's College to the neighbourhood of the Library at
Trinity College, which certainly was not made by Henry III,
but had an origin earlier than his reign: and there was yet a
third King's Ditch on the northern side of the river of which we
shall presently have to speak. Both these latter watercourses
were navigable, as the better known Ditch never was.
The statement in the Liber Menioraiidoruvi of Barnwell
can only be accepted in the sense that King Henry III repaired
and restored gates and ditches already existing. The gates in
question came to be known as Barnwell Gates, near St Andrew's
church, and Trumpington Gates, near St Botolph's, Deeds
belonging to early years of the thirteenth centurv- refer to both
these gates as then existing, and the church of St Peter (now
Little St Mary) was known as St Peter's Outside Trumpington
' Libir i^Iiinoratidoriim (Clark), p. 122.
* "It may be much doubted whether the walls, ditches, streets and open
spaces of the borough were held by the burgesses. They were still the king's
walls, ditches and streets, and he who encroached upon them committed a pur-
presture against the king." Pollock and Maitland, History 0/ English Law, i.
P- 635.
H. £
xxiv INTRODUCTION
Gates long before 1267. Similarly the Ditch on the southern
side of the town was clearly in existence in 1215 : for in that
year King John ordered pa}'ment to be made out of the Ex-
chequer for expenses incurred by the townsmen in enclosing
the town. Moreover the /bssaliau of Cambridge is mentioned
in a King's writ of 1250',
It is indeed not unlikely that the making of the King's Ditch
is to be referred to a time immeasurably earlier than the thir-
teenth century, and that its original design was not the defence
of Cambridge town, which perhaps had not come into being
when the Ditch was first made. It is not an unreasonable con-
jecture that it originally served the same purpose as the great
Dykes — the Fleam Dyke, the Devil's Ditch and the two Brant
Ditches, all of which have their fosses on the south-western
side, and were evidently constructed to bar the open chalk lands
of eastern Cambridgeshire and Norfolk from enemies advancing
from the southern Midlands. The river passage beneath the
Castle Hill was a weakness in these defences, since it furnished
a line of attack in the rear of the more southerly of them. This
is not the place to discuss this hypothesis : but a fact which
may be taken as giving it some support is that in the twelfth
and earlier centuries there existed another fosse which can have
had no significance except as barring the river passage. It
began near the site of St John's College Library and skirting
the north side of All Saints' churchyard joined the King's Ditch
where it passed along Park Street. In this position a trench
could have been no defence to the town and therefore was
presumably older than the settlement on the southern side of
the river. As the King's Ditch left the two parishes of Little
St Mary and St Andrew — both fairly populated in the thir-
teenth century — without any defence on the southern and
eastern sides of the town, it is a natural inference that it was
made before those parishes formed a part of the inhabited
area.
The course of the King's Ditch is clearly traced in the
plans of Lyne and Hamond. Except where it was crossed by
' Priory of St KaJc-giittii (OrO-y), p. 34, ;w/^.
THE KING'S DITCH xxv
roads it is shown as an open watercourse. But in Lyne's plan
it begins where Luttburne Lane (Free School Lane) joins
Dowdivers Lane (Pembroke Street), and Hamond represents
that, at least above ground, it did not reach westward as far
as Trumpington Gates, though he shows its continuation in Mill
Lane as far as the river. Evidently the section of the Ditch
between the Gates and Luttburne Lane was covered in before
Lyne's da}' ( 1 574) and houses were built over it in the triangular
space between Botolph Lane and Pembroke Streets From
Luttburne Lane the Ditch was carried along the northern side
of Pembroke Street, forming the southern boundary of the
grounds of the Austin Friars. Then diverging from the street
it crossed Slaughter Lane (Corn Exchange Street), where it
traversed the Fair Yard (St Andrew's Hill), and passing
through open grounds along what is now Tibb's Row and
skirting the northern side of St Andrew's churchyard, reached
Barnwell Gates. Thence it passed along the north side of Walls
Lane (Hobson Street), traversed the close of the Grey Friars,
and crossed Jesus Lane in a culvert which \va.s discovered in
1S94 and still exists-. Thence it took the line of the present
* In C.A.S. Comm. and Proc. xi. there is an excellent paper by Mr T. D.
Atkinson, On a Survey of the King's Ditch made in i62g, with a contemporary
surveyor's di.\c:ram. The diagram represents the Ditch as beginning at Pembroke
Hall, for it was there that the water from Trumpington Ford was brought into it
in 1610. The surveyor states that the fall of the Ditch between Pembroke Hall
and its outlet op[K)5ite Magdalene College was fifteen feet : but it is unlikely that
in Mill l.aiie the Ditch was of that depth. In his Communication Mr Atkinson
s.iys that the Ditch "ran up" Mill Lane and "ran down ' Pembroke Lane, which
is. an accura'.e statement as regards the course of the trench, but clearly does not
ap;>ly to the water. The survey of 1629 was right in making the Ditch begin in
Pembroke I-anc, for there its level was highest. The water from Trumpington
Kurd at present is carried along either side of Trumpington Street. On the one
side it is discharged into the Mill Pool above Queens' College, on the other at
the Electric Works opposite Magdalene College. Formerly there was a single
channel which flowed in the middle of the street : but by " stanks" at the crossing
of Trumpington Street with Mill I^ane and Pembroke Street it seems that it was
diverted in either direction. Before the water from Trumpington Ford was intro-
duced into the Ditch it would seem that such flow as there was was supplied by
the surface water of the low ground through which the Ditch passed.
" C.A.S. Comm. and Proc. ix. p. 33, On a Bridge over the Kiii^s Ditch
(.\tkinson). At the angle formed by Hobson Street and King Street there was a
chain bridge known as Wall> Lane Bridge.
C2
xxvi INTRODUCTION
Park Street, skirtinc^ the grounds of Jesus College until it
reached the point where Park Street turns southwards towards
Midsummer Common, and discharged itself in the river nearly
opposite the Pepysian Library of Magdalene College. There
is no record of the dates when the various sections of the Ditch
were covered in. In Loggan's plan there is no indication of it
in Hobson Street and in the part between Thompson's Lane
and the river.
As a defence of the town the Ditch was totally inadequate.
Only a few months after it was repaired, in 1267, the insurgents
from the Isle of Ely assaulted the town, fording the Ditch and
burning the Gates. A deed of the latter part of the thirteenth
century describes a tenement in St Botolph's parish as situated
next Trumpington Gates^ and the church of St Peter, until it
was re-dedicated, about 1349, to St Mary, in order to distinguish
it from St Peter's church near the Castle, was known as
St Peter's Outside Trumpington Gates. But neither of the town
Gates is mentioned as existing after 1 267, and it is to be doubted
whether they were ever re-constructed. Dr Caius mentions that
within his recollection a post existed marking the position of
Barnwell Gates, and the accounts of the Town Treasurer in
14SS — 9 mention a "vowght," or vault, at St Andrew's stulpes-.
"Stulp" was the name for a boundary post, and Stow mentions
"stulpes" as existing at the boundary of Bridge Ward Within,
next London Bridge. Presumably the "stulpes " were not a
part of the original Gates. The "vowght" was clearly the arched
passage through which the Ditch was carried under the street
near St Andrew's church.
The Ditch fell into disrepair almost immediately after 1267.
In February of the following year the King decided that it
should be cleansed and kept open "as of old time it was used^"
which is evidence that it was not then newly constructed. The
Ditch being the King's, the Town authorities held themselves
under no obligation to repair and cleanse it, unless the King
issued a writ compelling them to do so. In 127S, when the
' Stokes, Outside Triiinpingtcn Gates, pp. 2, 3.
' See a letter (A. Gray) in the Cambridge Chronicle, Oct. 26, 1894.
* Cooper, A finals, i. p. 51.
THE KING'S DITCH xxvii
King issued a commission to enquire into Crown rights and
revenues in Cambridge, they reported that the Ditch was neg-
lected and that individuals had made encroachments on its
banks. As the receptacle of the common filth of the town it
became a nuisance and constant source of epidemic. It was
hurriedly cleansed in 1348, when the town was menaced by the
invasion of the Black Deaths In the border of Lyne's plan
allusion is made to Dr Perne's project (1574) of purging it by
bringing into it the water from Trumpington Ford: but the pro-
posal was not adopted until 16 10, and the surveyor's report in
1629 shows that even this expedient was not effectual owing
to the inequality of the level of the Ditch and the consequent
deposit of sediment.
The Ditch, in the parts where it is traceable, followed the
line of natural depressions extending from Pembroke College
to its outlet. As its original purpose was defence it was ill
adapted for drainage and, until 16 10, there were no means of
flushing it. The late Professor Hughes was of opinion that in
early times it was fed by surface water from the marshy ground
of St Thomas' Leys, near Downing College.
On the northern side of the river there was another ditch,
which in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries was also known
as the King's Ditch and sometimes by the curious name of
Cambrigge, or "the Cambridge watercourse"." It is not shown
in Fuller's, or Hamond's plan, and at the place where it crossed
Magdalene Street Lyne marks a grating in the road, and in
the lower right hand corner explains the letter T with which
he designates it as " the iron grating where formerly was the
bridge called Canteber from (King) Canteber, whence the name
Cantcbrigia." About the year 1278 when King Edward I was
enquiring into the boundaries of the Castle.the jurors appointed
to make the survey described this watercourse as " the old
fossatum," and, as they passed through it in their perambulation,
it was apparently then nearly dry. In the same reign the
Barnwell chronicler reports that an aged palmer-pilgrim said
' Cooper, Annals, i. p. loo.
* Arch. Hist., ii. pp. 355—357.
xxviii INTRODUCTION
that he remembered that "ships" came up it almost to St Giles'
church. This watercourse, in part at least artificial, began at j
the Binn Brook, near the School of Pythagoras, and joined the j
river at a little distance eastward of the Pepysian Library of 1
Magdalene College. Its purpose was clearly to guard the river |
passage at the ford or bridge, and its construction may perhaps j
be referred to times before the Norman Conquests j
* For accounts of the Cambridge Watercourse see C.A.S. Comvi. and Proc. \
ix.pp.6i — 76, The IVatercotirse called Cambridge (A.Gray), and xv. pp. 178 — 191,
Excavations at Magdalene College (F. G. Walker).
ARTHUR GRAY
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THE GEOLOGY OF CAMBRIDGE
The town of Cambridge lies upon a line which, on the
whole, separates the resistant chalk on the south-east from the
soft clay on the north-west, and accordingly we find relatively
high chalk-hills to the east of the town, and the low-lying
fenland occupying the site of the clay-lands to the north and
north-west. There is hjwever a tract of high ground occupied
by chalk and other rocks to the south-west and west. The
town, therefore, is situated on the first place where high ground
occurs on either side of the river as we approach from the sea.
This in itself might well determine the position of an important
settlement. Furthermore, as the river can cut its bed more
readily in the soft clay than in the more resistant chalk, the
navigable tract is confined to that portion of the stream which
has run for some time over the former deposit, and the town
originated at the head of this navigable expanse of the river.
It is a commonplace in geography that in the case of a large
number of rivers two important towns occur: — one, the port,
at the river-mouth, and the other at the head of the navigable
portion.
It should be noticed also that w^hen a river has eroded its
channel to such an extent as to possess a sluggish course, the
stream tends to meander. This the Cam has done in the
vicinity of Cambridge, and the town is situated in the loop
formed by the most important of these meanders, which forms
an arc between Coe Fen and Barnwell, with the middle of the
bend at Magdalene Bridge. A town thus situated could readily
be protected by stockade, earthwork, or ditch carried along
the chord of the arc.
Another important point about the site is that the old town
was built upon gravel, w-hich furnishes a dry site, above the
land liable to be flooded, and yields a ready supply of water
from shallow wells.
It is improbable that all these conditions were in the minds
of those who first established themselves upon this site, but
THE GEOLOGY OF CAMBRIDGE xxxi
they may well have been factors in the growth of the settle-
ment into a place of importance.
When we turn to the consideration of the geological con-
ditions of the area occupied by the town itself, we find that
the subject is not so simple.
Four distinct geological formations appear in the area re-
presented upon the maps. The oldest of these is the gault-clay
of the Cretaceous Period, which underlies the superficial
deposits everywhere except upon the Castle Hill. On the
gault which forms the base of that hill is a patch of chalk also
of Cretaceous age, being part of an outlying mass separated
from the main mass of chalk to the east by the gault of the
Cam valley. Resting upon the gault over a considerable part
of the area are superficial deposits, namely the gravels of
comparatively recent geological date, which also occur in
patches on the chalk of the Castle Hill, and lastly, the alluvium
or modern flood-deposits of the river forming a belt along the
river-course.
The gault-clay appears at the surface (i.e. underneath the
soil and subsoil) in a strip of ground extending northward
from the south end of Parker's Piece to Midsummer Common,
but elsewhere on the right bank of the river, this clay is hidden
by superficial deposits of gravel and alluvium, both laid down
by the river, the former at a somewhat remote period, the
latter more recently.
On the left bank the conditions are different. The gravel
forms a very narrow strip north-west of Magdalene Bridge,
and the older (Cretaceous) deposits appear at the surface higher
up the hill. The high ground of Castle Hill is determined by
the resistant chalk capped by gravel, while the gault-clay
comes to the surface lower down the hill in Castle Street, but
owing to the steep slope of the valley-side at this place, the
ground is suitable for habitation.
It would appear, therefore, that the two sites suitable for
occupation at an early period were the gravelly tract occupying
the higher parts of generally low-l\'ing ground of the loop on
the east side of the river, and the high ground on which Castle
xxxii INTRODUCTION
Street is now situated, extending from Magdalene Bridge to
the hill-top at Castle End, and bounded by lower ground
everywhere except to the north-west.
Each of these sites was suitable for protection. That on
the left bank is at the end of a promontory of high ground in
direct communication with an elevated country lying westward
and south-westward.
The promontory ends eastward at the river, and could
readily be protected by earthworks across it about the position
of the Castle.
That on the right bank as already seen was partly sur-
rounded by the river-loop and only required protection by
works along the chord of the arc.
The geological conditions on the left bank are, as we have
seen, comparatively simple. Those of the tract occupied by
the town east of the river are more complex, and require
further consideration.
These conditions have been very fully described by the
late Professor Hughes in a paper read before the Cambridge
Antiquarian Society ^ Much of the following account is
largely based upon the contents of that paper.
The area east of the river represented on the maps is
occupied by three geological formations, running in a general
north and south direction, the newest being on the western
side. On the east is the strip of gault-clay already mentioned
as extending from Parker's Piece to Midsummer Common.
Parker's Piece and Christ's Pieces are situated upon this
ground, and further north it occupies part of Butt's Green.
This clay-tract is damp low-lying ground, clearly unsuited for
habitation.
Its western margin starts near the south-western corner of
Gonville Place, and extends along the south-west side of
Parker's Piece, parallel to and a very short distance from
Regent Street and St Andrew's Street, to the east end of
Christ's Lane. It then bends round to take a more north-
* T. McK. Hughes, "Superficial Deposits under Cambridge," Proc. Cantb.
ArJiq. Soc, xi. (1907), p. 393.
THE GEOLOGY OF CAMBRIDGE xxxiii
easterly direction across King Street to Butt's Green and
finally to the river.
To the west of this is the area occupied by gravel, which
is undoubtedly responsible for the site of the populous part of
the ancient town.
Most of this area is relatively high, but there are local
variations of some importance, to which reference will presently
be made.
To the west and north of the gravel-covered area is the
narrow strip of river-alluvium, lying at a low level, largely liable
to floods in former times, and without modification, unsuitable
for habitation. Parts of it are now relatively dry owing to
artificial raising to which attention will be presently directed,
and also no doubt owing to artificial changes in the river
course which lay along the alluvial flat in channels different
from that at present occupied, as shown by the Master of Jesus
in a paper in the Proceedings of the Cambridge A ntiquaria7i
Society'^.
On either side of the Cam the alluvial flat is bounded by
lines running generally parallel to the river and at no great
distance from it. From Sheep's Green to Magdalene Bridge,
the river lies near the eastern side of the alluvium, but near the
bridge the stream crosses the belt, and flows along its northern
side to a point near the north-eastern limit of the maps.
The line separating gravel from alluvium on the right bank
of the Cam differs on the Geological Survey Map and on the
plan accompanying Professor Hughes' paper, being drawn
further from the river in the latter. This is no doubt due to the
frequent opportunities afforded to the Professor of examining
excavations formed after the publication of the Survey map, for
much of the higher ground mapped as gravel by the Surveyors
is shown to consist of made-ground overlying the alluvium.
The alluvial tract and the lowest part of the ground occupied
by gravel, which passes under the alluvium, was in its natural
condition unsuitable for buildings, and the ancient town did
^ A. Gray, "On the Watercourse called Cambridge in relation to the river
Cam and Cambridge Castle," Free. Camb. Antiq. Soc. ix. (1896], p. 6i.
xxxiv INTRODUCTION
not encroach upon it. It was later utilised for the erection of
monastic and collegiate buildings, and, as shown by Professor
Hughes, the ground was extensively raised artificially for the
purpose.
We may turn now to the further consideration of the
gravelly tract which was chosen for the early settlement on
the east side of the river.
The classification of the gravels according to age is fraught
with difficulty. This however does not concern us. It is im-
portant to note that the deposits grouped under the title of
gravel vary in composition and degree of coarseness, the
coarser gravel being sometimes replaced by fine sands and
loams. The sands and loams would be more readily washed
away than the gravels, giving rise to lower ground, and the
loams would hold up the water, forming marshy tracts.
Recent excavations in the grounds of the New Museums
(Downing Site) showed the occurrence of much loam in the
" gravels " of this place. Accordingly we find relatively low
ground here which was in recent times of a swampy nature,
and a depression extends from it past the Post Office to the
river west of Jesus College. In Professor Hughes' plan, alluvium
is represented as occupying the part of this valley towards the
river, west of Jesus College. Along part of this valley the
King's Ditch was cut. Professor Hughes suggests that "it is
probable that the spur of gravel on which the ancient town
was built was not quite continuous at the same level but that
there was lower ground between the churches of St Peter (now
St Mary the Less) and St Bene't along which the King's
Ditch was taken without the necessity of making any con-
siderable excavation except close to St Peter's^"
To the east of the little valley extending from the Downing
site to the river is higher ground occupied by gravel, which
separates the valley from the low ground of gault-clay on
which the Pieces stand. This gravelly tract extends from the
eastern corner of Lensfield Road along Regent Street past
Emmanuel College.
^ Hughes, loc. cit. p. 411.
1892201
THE GEOLOGY OF CAMBRIDGE xxxv
On the western side of the valley is another gravel tract,
again of moderately elevated ground. This tract is of high
importance to us. North of the low ground occupied by the
western end of the King's Ditch it extends northward between
the little valley on the east and the Cam on the west as far as
Magdalene Bridge. On the comparatively high and dry ground
of this tract ancient Cambridge east of the river was built.
The geology and physical features of that part of the old
town which lay upon the western side of the river have already
been considered. It only remains to state that the portion of
the maps which represented the ground on the west side of the
Cam on the site of the Backs and further westward is occupied
by alluvium over the greater part of the College grounds, but
that an important gravel terrace rises behind the alluvium,
extending from Magdalene Bridge to Newnham, widening out
in a southerly direction. A similar terrace is seen on the
Chesterton bank oppositeMidsummerCommon. Theseterraces
give rise to habitable ground, but this was outside the bound-
aries of ancient Cambridge, and has only recently been built
upon, along the greater part of its length, though the village
of Newnhami no doubt owes its position to the gravel terrace,
as do the villages of Barnwell and Chesterton to the terraces
lower down the river.
Cambridge itself probably originated as a similar village
or villages, but owing to the physical and geological conditions
briefly outlined above, outstripped its neighbours, and grew
by degrees into the important town which it has become.
J. E. MARK
ARMS OF THE UNIVERSITY AND THE TOWN
a. The University
The arms of the University are figured by Lyne and by
Hamond. The former's figure is blurred and incorrect; and
the latter omits the book from
the middle of the cross. They
were granted to the Universit}'
by Robert Cooke, Clarencieux
King of Arms, 2 June, 1573
(fig. i). They are: gules, on a
cross ermine betzveen four lions
passant gardant or, a book gules.
b. The Town
I. Arms of University, 1573'.
In the plans of Lyne and
Hamond the arms of the Uni-
versity are balanced by those
of the Town. In Lyne's plan
they appear beneath the word
OPPIDI; in Hamond's beneath the words /^z/r^/^'j- Canteb. In
both plans the shield is charged with a tall castellated building
of polygonal form flanked by two circular towers, apparently
intended to represent Cambridge Castle; but, according to
a grant of arms, crest, and supporters made to the Town by
Robert Cooke, Clarencieux King of Arms, 7 June, 1575, the
device in question was understood to represent a bridge, the
device shown on the early seals of the Town and the Mayor-
alty (figs. 2, 3)-. In the words of the grant "they haue not
only vsed in the same seale the portraiture of a Bridg but also
' This shield, and the others whicli occur in our text, are borrowed (unless
otherwise stated) from a paper by W. H. St John Hope, M.A., in Camb. Atit.
Soc. Proc. and Cofiitn. vol. viii. (N.S. ii.), no. xxxv. pp. 107 — 133.
'■' These figures are borrowed from a paper by T. D. Atkinson, Esq., in Catnb.
Ant. Soc. Proc. a7zd Comrn. vol. x. (N.S. iv. no. XLII. pp. 124, 127).
ARMS OF THE UNIVERSITY AND THE TOWN xxxvii
made shew therof in coollers being no perfect armes in such
place and tyme as by the magistrates of the said Towne and
Borough was thought most mete and convenient." Cooke
accordingly proceeds to grant to them : " Gules a B^-idg, in
chcif a Jiowcrdcluce gold betiveii two Roses sihier on a point
wane thre Boatcs sables, A nd to the crcast vppon the heahne on
a wreath gold and gules on a inoicnt vert a Bridg siluer vian-
teled gules doblcd siluer the amies supported by two Neptune's
horses the vpper part gules the nether part proper finned gold as,
more play nly appeareth'^ depicted in the viargent'-l'
Fig. 2. Common Seal, i4'23.
Fig. 3. Mayor's Seal, in use 1352.
These arms are shown on Speed's plan, 1610, Loggan's
1688, and Custance's 1798, but without the supporters and
ti^e crest. This latter, intended for a bridge, is obviously de-
rived from the castle on the plans of Lyne and Hamond.
' Thi.N word is conjectural. In the grant it is written "apped."
' From the original grant, for the loan of which I have to thank W. P.
.'Spalding. Esq., Mayor of Cambridge, and J. E. L. Whitehead, M.A., Town Clerk.
The gr.int is printed at length in Cooper, Annals, ii. 330.
J. W. CLARK
..I
PLAN BY RICHARD LYNE, 1574
This plan of Cambridge, so far as I have been able
to discover, is the earliest in existence. It is signed
and dated in the left hand lower corner, Ric'' Lvne
SCULPSIT. A" Dx\i 1574. The Dictionary of National
Biography (s.v.) states that Lyne was one of the en-
gravers employed by Archbishop Parker ; and on a
genealogical chart engraved by him for Alexander
Neville's tract De Fiiroribus Noifolcensiiwi Ketto Dnce,
1 575, he describes himself as "servant {serzms) to Arch-
bishop Parker." I cannot, however, find any authority
for the statement, often made, that our plan was drawn
and engraved at Parker's expense'. I admit, of course,
the presence of Parker's arms upon it.
We find it occasionally bound up with a copy of the
IIist07'ia Cantebrigicnsis AcadcniicE, by John Caius", first
published in 1574; but a careful study of that work has
not revealed the slightest reference to the plan, and I
therefore see no reason for believing that it was specially
drawn to illustrate it.
The plan is a bird's eye view, i6|- inches high by
1 1-'- inches wide, includinof an ornam^ental border which
encircles the whole plan. The spectator is supposed
to be standing at the south end of the town. At the
top, bottom and sides of the plan, the ornamental border
is interrupted by a label, on which the points of the
' Gough, British Tcpc^^rapJiy, i. 20S, note.
• For instance, in llic University Library, Cambridge, and in the Bodleian
Library, Oxford.
H. I
2 PLAN BY RICHARD LYNE, 1574
compass are written : septentrio, meridies, oriexs,
occiDENS; and at the top, separated by the word sep-
TENTRio, are two scrolls bearing respectively the words
OPPiDVM and cantebrigi.e. In the right upper corner,
occupying a space of about 4^- inches long, by 6 j; inches
wide, including an ornamental border enriched with
wreaths of fruit and flowers, is a descriptive note on
Cambridge which I proceed to translate :
Cambridge, a very famous city, called Cairgrant from the river
which flows beside it, was styled Cantebrigia from Cantaber, a noble
Spaniard, the first founder of the University rather than of the City ;
Grauntecestre by the Saxons ; and in times now past Grantebrige.
The river, retaining to the present day its ancient nanie, prolongs
a very lengthy course to the sea, with curving banks that sweep from
south to north. The city, immortalising the name and memory- of the
Founder, preserves a University dignity which is even more illustrious
than that of old.
History records that it was formerly surrounded by a wall, which
was destroyed, together with the ancient appearance of the city, in
the wars with the Picts, the Saxons, and the Danes. Henr}' the
Third, King of England, about the year of our Lord 1265, fortified
Cambridge with a ditch and gates. He was at that time defending
himself here against the depredations and raids of outlaws who were
holding the Isle of Ely. He would then have girt it about with a
wall once more, had not Gilbert, Earl of Clare, occupied London in
his absence, so that he was compelled to take steps to avert a fresh
disaster. Some trace of this Ditch, which from that period got the
name of King's Ditch, is to be seen upon this map. So that which
was in the first instance provided with the deepest and broadest ex-
cavations for the delimitation and defence of the city, is now found
convenient for the cleansing of dirt from the streets^ and for washing
filth into the Granta. If the men of Cambridge would unite their
resources, and cause the brook which runs by Trumpington P'ord to
wash this Ditch, no city would be more elegant than Cambridge; and
the remembrance of such an achievement would not only be grateful
to posterity, but agreeable and advantageous to themselves.
It is worth noting that Andrew Perne, D.D., Master
of Peterhouse, and Vice Chancellor, wrote a letter to
PLAN BY RICHARD LYNE, 1574 3
Lord Burghley dated 21 November in this year on the
subject of the f)lague. After ascribing the prevalence
of it at Cambridge partly to infection, partly to "the
corruption of the King's dytch," he proceeds to make
the same suggestion as the writer of the above para-
graph :
I do send to your honor a brief note of such as have died of the
plage in Cambridge hitherto, with a mappe of Cambridge, the which
I did first make principally for this cause, to shewe howe the water
that Cometh from Shelford to Trumpingtonford and from thence nowe
doth passe to y^ Mylles in Cambridge, as appearith by a blewe line
drawne in the said mappe to Trumpingtonford (withowte any como-
ditie) might be conveighed...into the King's Ditch, the which waie as
appearith by a red lyne drawne from the said Trumpingtonford to the
King's Ditch, for the perpetual scouringe of the same, the which
would be a singuler benefite for the healthsomnes both of the Uni-
versitie and of the Towne, besides other comodities that might arise
thereby \
It would be interesting to know whether the para-
graph on the plan was inserted with the intention of
supporting this particular scheme ; and if so, whether
Dr Perne, or Archbishop Parker, or both, were re-
sponsible for it. A supply of wholesome water was not
brought to Cambridge until 16 10'.
At a little distance to the left of this tablet are the
royal arms, France and England quarterly, encircled by
the garter and surmounted by a crown. Beneath are the
arms of Archbishop Parker, separating the words I\L\t.
Cant. 1 he presence of these arms upon the map gives
colour to the view that Lyne was specially connected
with the archbishop.
In the left lower corner above the author's name and
date, as already noticed, are the arms of the University
^ Cooper, A/Dia/s, ii. 323. • Ibid. iii. 36.
I 2
4 PLAN BY RICHARD LYNE, 1574
and the Town. These are described in the Introduc-
tion.
In the right lower corner are two Hsts of Hostels :
the one for students in Arts, the other for students in
Law.
HosPiTiA Arcistarum
A Kinges Hall
B Michaell howse
C Physwicke Ostell
D Gregorye Ostell
E Garett Ostell
F S' Marie Ostell
G S' Austines Ostell'
H Bernarde Ostell
I S' Thomas Ostell
K Buttolph Ostell
HOSPITIA JURISTARUM
L Ouins Inn
M Paules Inn'-
N Clemens Ostell
O Trinitie Ostell
P S' iNicholas Ostell
Q Burden Ostell
R Domus Pythagoras
S D S'^ Bedcx
T Crates ferrea ubi olim pons Canteber a Cantebro,
unde Cantebrioria.
o
' The letter of reference for this hostel has been omitted on the plan, perhaps
intentionally. It stood on the S. side of King's College, and was fitted up as a
pensionary in 1574.
"^ Dr Caius describes St Paul's Inn as "not far from St Michael's Church,
towards the north, facing the market place."
PLAN BY RICHARD LYNE. 1574 5
These Hostels are all included in the list given by
DrCaius, except King-'s Hall and Michael House, which
were not Hostels but Colleges and had been included
in Trinity College by Henry VI H. Those included
in his list, but omitted on the plan, are the Hostels of
S. Margaret and S. Catherine, Tyler's Inn, Harleston
Inn, God'"^ House, and Rudd's Hostel. The three first
had been included in Trinity College before the plan
was drawn ; the omission of Harleston Inn, an important
Hostel near the Great Bridge, is not easy to explain ;
God's House had been absorbed in Christ's Colleo^e ;
and for Rudd's Hostel, now part of the Castle Inn,
opposite to Emmanuel College, there was no room on
the plan\
Professor Willis, who had studied Lyne's plan with
great care, wrote of it as follows :
"This plan is drawn without reference to scale, pro-
portion, or relative position of buildings, and therefore
requires to be employed with great distrust and caution,
as may easily be shown by comparing King's College
Chapel, S. Mary's Church, Queens' College, or any other
of the buildings that have not been altered since it was
drawn, with their real proportion and position,
"The representations of buildings in plans of this
description, at this early period, are never to be trusted
as exhibiting either the exact proportions, or the exact
portraits, of the structures. They are conventional
figures with a slight resemblance. The best mode of
understanding them is to compare some of the figures
with the actual remains. Thus, the flank of King's
College Chapel between the turrets is drawn as high
* On the subjects of Hostels see Arch. Hist. i. pp. xix— xxviii, where a full
list of them is given.
6 PLAN BY RICHARD LYNE. 1574
as it is long, whereas, actually, the length is to the
height as three to one. Again, the height of the angle-
turrets, as there drawn, is to their breadth as six to
one, whereas it is in reality as eight to one. Moreover,
ten windows are shown instead of twelve. And yet this
part of the plan evidently assumes to be more of a
portrait than the rest. All the quadrangles of the colleges
are drawn as perfectly rectangular, and the buildings
that compose them have the windows dotted in in rows,
in a 'quincunx' order, with little gablets above, all alike,
and with no indications of the large windows of hall or
chapel, with the sole exceptions of Trinity College and
King's College. Even the old quadrangle of King's
College is square, and its north side extends behind
the Schools in a range of chambers. In reality, how-
ever, this court was of an irregular figure, and the north
side was occupied by a low hall and offices. Here and
there a College gateway is indicated ; as, for example,
of Christ's College, Jesus College, and Trinity College.
The stair-turret of Peterhouse is greatly exaggerated.
Trinity College, from the straggling, unfinished posi-
tion of its ranges of chambers has led to an attempt to
show their position more minutely, and also that of the
chapel, but in a manner exceedingly perplexing.
"The parish churches are similarly all represented
in a conventional form; and are all alike, except Great
S. Mary's, which, being the principal church, is roughly
portrayed. ^Moreover, there is an attempt to give a
circular form to the Round Church. Both coHefjes and
churches, however, are drawn on a larger scale than that
employed for the plan of the town ; and thus occupy
more space, and approach more closely together, than
they do in reality. The outskirts of the town, on the
PLAN BY RICHARD LYNE, 1574 7
other hand, are drawn on a contracted scale, for the sake
of crowding in details\"
Notwithstanding these defects the plan is still a
valuable record. It gives the ancient names of many
streets, lanes, and places ; and, in the case of buildings,
is occasionally useful as a witness of their existence,
though it cannot be trusted for their extent or dimen-
sions.
It is neither necessary nor desirable to describe such
a plan as this with the minuteness required for some
of the others, as for instance, for that of Hamond. On
the other hand there are many points in it to which I
wish to draw attention — if only eis an introduction to the
rest of the series. The River and the Castle have been
described already in the Introduction; and, further, I
intend to defer most of my references to the history of
particular structures until I reach the better illustrations
of them furnished by Hamond. Nevertheless, I feel
that I should not be treating this venerable relic of the
sixteenth century with due respect if I did not conduct
my reader throus^h it, as if he were a stranger visitine
the town ; and, as it is intended to be looked at from
the lower or southern end of Cambridge, let us begin
with the thoroughfare which even then was called Triun-
pini:^to}i Strcafe. On our right is Spittle ende, a name
derived from a Lazar House, termed " Hospital of
S. Anthony and S. Eligius," which faced the modern
Scroope Terrace. North of the buildings of this Hospital
we see the word Chanons written beside a small enclosure
surrounded by a wall. Within this enclosure is a small
chapel-like building, facing the street. This enclosure
is evidently the close popularly known as " Chanons
^ Arch. Hist. i. p. xcviii.
8 PLAN BY RICHARD LYNE, 1574
Close," and the building is intended to represent the
House and Chapel of the White Canons of S. Gilbert
of Sempringham, who were established here in 1290'.
Part of Addenbrooke's Hospital now occupies this site.
Eastward of Chanons Close is Sioinecrofte, to which
the author of the plan draws attention by the picture
of a boar-pig, but Dr Stokes derives the name from
Peter Swyn, who appears in the Hundred Rolls as the
owner of a messuage in this neio^hbourhood. For the
houses between Chanons Close and Pembroke Hall, in-
cluding S. Thomas' Hostel (I), I will refer my readers
to Dr Stokes. Eastward of the Hostel is the open
pasture called from it S' ThoDias Lecse.
Penb^'oke hall is represented conventionally. East-
ward of the quadrangle is a small piece of ground ex-
tending as far as a lane entered over a stile from the
thoroughfare north of the College. This is the lane
called Vcnclla versus le Swine croft now absorbed in
Pembroke College. Eastward of it is a large enclosure.
on the north side of which is a strip lettered Pascall
close. On the east of the ground trees are shown, with
a building probably intended to represent a pigeon-
house. Pascal Close, or Pascal Yard, beloneed to a
charity in Great S. Mary's Church, and its leases were
charged with the obligation of providing a candle there
from Easter to the eve of the Ascension. It did not
become the property of Pembroke till 1833. The
orchard to the south side of it, an acre in extent, was
bought by the Foundress in 1363'.
^ I- or my knowledge of this part of Cambridge I am indebted to my friend
Dr Stokes, who in his OittsiJe the Tnanpington Gates (Camb. Ant. Soc. 8vo.
Publ. Xo. xi.iv) has thrown a flood of light on many topographical difhcuhies.
For the White Canons and Spital End, see Chapters Vll, viii.
- Arch. Hist. i. pp. 122, 124, 125.
PLAN BY RICHARD LYNE. 1574 9
On the west side of Trumpington Street is Petcr-
Jioiusc. It is represented conventionally, like Pembroke
College, with a complete quadrangle, though the east
side was never built. The houses between the College
and the street may be taken to represent the original
hostels, which were not pulled down till i632\ The
preposterous size of the Master's tower has been already
noticed. His garden is shown extending as far as the
door opening into the through-passage at the west end
of the Hall. Note the stile by which the ground west
of the College is entered, and the wall next the fen.
North of Peterhouse is a buildincf intended for the
church of S. Mary the Less". It stands in a large en-
closure with entrances at the N. W. and S. E. corners.
The latter entrance existed until 1 734. We shall return
to Peterhouse when describing Hamond's plan, Sheet 7.
North of S.Mary'sChurch is a thoroughfare intended
for Little S. Mary's Lane, though drawn of about the
same width as ?vlill Lane which succeeds it; and beyond
the latter is the block of houses of which the University
Press now forms part, drawn of an absurdly small size.
North of these is the street (now called Silver Street)
leading to the bridge.
Proceeding along Trumpington Street, on the east
side, we have first ButtolpJi Ostcll\ originally a hostel
for students in Arts, but since 1466 leased by Pembroke
College as a pensionary. It was separated by Penny
farthing lane from the churchyard of 6". Bnttolph — be-
yond which wxitPcrnardc OsUlP, Benett Coll. or Corpus
Christi College, and the parish Church of S. Benett.
* Arch. Hist. i. p]>. 31. 32.
" Historical details respecting the parish churches are deferred till we reach
Hamond's more accurate representations of them.
' Arch. Hist. i. p. xxv.
10 PLAN BY RICHARD LYNE, 1574
Behind these buildings is Luttbiirne lane (now Free-
School Lane) closed by a stile at its north end. On the
east side of this lane is a piece of ground of irregular
shape, bounded on the south by the King's Ditch. Part
of it is lettered Augustine frier's, and a large quadrangle
is shown, which may be intended for that of the Friars,
On the opposite, or west side of Trumpington Street
are several large houses, behind which is a quadrangle
lettered Katherine hall. South of this, at the corner of
Mill streate, is a plot of garden ground, which represents
the original site of Queens' College. Opposite Katherine
hall'^x^ the two quadrangles of Queens' College, but no
attempt has been made to indicate their relative size.
The towers of the gate of entrance are shown. Beyond.
to the north, is the site of the Carmelites or White
Friers, extending to Cholis lane. From Queens' College
we regain Trumpington Street by walking along Plott
and Nuts la7ie, usually termed King's Lane.
King's College, as it appeared at the end of the
sixteenth century, will be described when we come to
Hamond's plan; as regards Lyne's we will merely point
out the confusion into which he has fallen by placing
the chapel far too near the southern limit of the site.
This done, so little space was left to him that the bridge,
which ought to have been nearly in the middle of the
river bank between Cholis Lane and Clare College, is
close to the lane; and it obviously must carry with it
the ground planted with trees on the left bank, which
was part of King's College grounds, but is treated by
Lyne as thoucrh it belono^ed to Oueens' Colleofe.
Opposite to King's College is S' Edivard's Church,
with the narrow S. Edward's Lane to the south of it,
represented as a broad thoroughfare. If we pass along
PLAN BY RICHARD LYNE, 1574 n
it, we reach first the block of houses which stood east-
ward of the church, and were not entirely removed till
1874 ; and secondly, the Pease uiarkett. If, instead
of entering this, we turn to the left, we presently reach
Market Wai-de, and the Market Cross. Lyne has
preserved to us the appearance of this
ancient cross, which was altered in 1 587. /Tfi
Mr Atkinson, whose enlargement of
Lyne's figure we reproduce, tells us that
the cross "was raised on a flio^ht of stone
^ I — - _j
steps, and was protected by a lead-
covered roof, supported by columns probably of wood."
When the roof was removed the cross was left intact,
as shown by Hamond, Sheet 9. The following extracts
from the Town Treasurer's accounts illustrating the
changes are here noted.
1564. Expenses. To y*^ Painter for payntinge y'^ market Crosse,
xv^ iiij*^.
To y^ Plomer for mendinge y® leads about y^
crosse, iiij^
1569- », For xxiiij''. of leade, xv". of soder, and ij bushels
of coles occupied about the market crosse, xj'.
^5^7- )i For takinge y^ leade of y^ crosse and for carryinge
the same, and for watchinge it the night before
it was taken downe, and for takinge downe the
tymber, iij^ iiij^^.
A'tiYi/>/s. Of Thomas Metcalf for y*^ old wood of the crosse,
xx'.^
From J/arket IVarde we enter the Market Jiill, or
Market Place'-". The market, with the adjoining church
of S. Mary the Great, are better shown by Hamond,
Sheet 9. We will therefore say no more about them in
this place.
' Atkinson's Camiridi^e, p. 66; Cooper, Annals, ii. pp. 20S, 244, 450.
^ Alilennan Newton writes of "the Hill against the Rose tavern." Diary, ^.loi.
[C.A.S. 8vo. Publications, xxni.]
12 PLAN BY RICHARD LYNE, 1574
Opposite to the church, on the west side o'i HcigJie
Warde, or Trumpington Street, is Vniversitie sb'eei,
made by Abp Parker in 1574, to provide direct access
for the University from the Schools (here lettered Comon
Schols) to Great S. Mary's Church, then used by the
Senate on days of public ceremonial. Behind the Schools
Quadrangle, is the Old Court of King's College very
erroneously drawn (as Professor Willis has pointed out
in the extract quoted above); and north of University
Street is 5' Marie Ostcll (F), a hostel for arts-students
close to Gonville and Caius College.
In front of the Schools a thoroughfare is shown, to
which Lyne assigns no name ; but, as it was of great
antiquity, and is frequently mentioned in medieval deeds
and conveyances, it must be briefly described.
This thoroughfare, called School Street, or Scole lanes, opened
into the main street of the town nearly opposite to the middle of the
southern division of the burial-ground of Great S. Mary's Church.
From this point the street extended westward to the south corner of
the Schools, now the University Library, but in such a direction that
had it been prolonged farther westward, it would have run under the
south wall of the Schools. It turned, however, at a right angle, and
extended northward, under the front wall of the Schools, to the Gate
of Honour of Gonville and Caius College, which, as it was built
expressly at the north termination of the street, serves as a landmark.
It must be remembered that the modern front of the University
Library is twenty feet in advance of the ancient front, and therefore
covers the site of School Street. The portion of the present Senate
House Passage which extends from the Gate of Honour to High
Street, had no existence till the Senate House was built (1722 — 30)
the site being occupied by S. Mary's Hostel. The western end of this
passage, however, is of great antiquity, but has no specific name, being
sometimes called the "lane under the garden of Gonville Hall," and
sometimes "School lane," as a continuation of the other branches.
These lanes, taken together, formed a zigzag communication from
Trinity Hall to Great S. Mary's Church. The branch in front of the
Schools was termed "North School Street"; that which joined the
PLAN BY RICHARD LYNE. 1574 ^3
High Street, "East School Street" or "Glomery Lane," and in the
seventeenth century it had acquired the name of S. Mary Lane^
On Lyne's plan the word Henney is written along
the western prolongation of School Street. This word,
of unknown signification, was applied to the district in
which Trinity Hall is situated. There was also a lane,
called Henney Lane, which bisected the site of Gonville
Hall from east to west, and was prolonged across the
site of Trinity Hall to the river. Gonville Hall absorbed
in 1498 the portion in which it was interested; and Trinity
Hall did the same by the rest in 1545. But I cannot
help thinking that I.yne had this lane in mind when he
wrote the word Henney where we see it on his plan.
North of this lane some buildings are drawn which
are marked in the plan as Caius and Gimzvell Colled^e.
They are disposed round three courts, but the repre-
sentation is entirely erroneous, and a tower-like structure
which seems to be intended for the Gate of Honour,
has wandered eastward to a point above the letter F.
West of King's College and Gonville Hall is Mill
strcaie, an important thoroughfare before Henry the
Sixth bought the enlarged site for King's College; but,
when Lyne's plan was drawn the street consisted, as now,
of two fragments, the one opposite Queens' College, and
the other in the district we are describing. The name
is usually written Milne Street, from the King's Mill
and Hishop's Mill, to which it provided direct access.
When the number of lanes which led down to the river,
and the number of hythes along its banks are considered,
the importance of such a street will be recognised'.
' Arch. Hist. i. .^iS. The description is by Professor Willis.
' These lanes and hythes will be explained below as part of our descripiion of
King's College (Il.imund's plan, sheet 9).
14 PLAN BY RICHARD LYNE, 1574
Clare Hall and Trinitie Hall are shown as three
quadrangles of almost equal size, with no distinctive
features.
Proceeding northwards along Mill Street we turn at
rio-ht angles into Findcsihier lane, more usually called
S. Michael's Lane or Trinity Lane, with Trinity College
on our left. Ly ne's view of it is curious, and we will return
to it in connection with Hamond's wonderful represen-
tation of the great court as it was arranged before
Dr Nevile's alterations.
We will next consider the district, roughly triangular,
of which the apex is at the junction oi Heighe IVaj-de and
Brido-e strcatc, and the base is formed by Shcrers lane
and Shoomakcr lane. The greater part of this district is
shown as sparsely populated, with large tracts of garden-
ground in the central portion. The buildings, with very
few exceptions, are of litde interest, and those few are
all on the east side of High Street. We have, first,
S. Michael's Church, and next to it Burden or Borden
Hostel (O), a law-students' hostel belonging to Clare
Hall, as Clare College was then called. At some distance
north of this, opposite to Trinity College Chapel, is the
church of Allialowes in Indaismo, or All Saints in the
Jewry. An attempt has been made to show the tower,
and the through-passage by which it was pierced. The
extent of the Jewry, or Jews' Quarter, is undetermined.
Opposite to the Jewry is S^ Johns Collcdge, and an
attempt has evidently been made to portray it with some
approach to accuracy. The towers of the gate of en-
trance are roughly indicated ; and the small court at the
south-west corner of the principal court, begun 1528',
is also shown. We also see the Master's garden, and the
^ Arch. Hist. ii. ■246.
PLAN BY RICHARD LYNE, 1574 15
wooden bridge leading to the walks beyond the river.
Note the a\enue of trees beyond the bridge. The
College is, however, far better drawn by Hamond,
Sheet 9.
From S. John's College we will enter Bi-idge streate
or Bridge IWxrdc, and cross the Great Bridge. On the
right, after passing the bridge, is Magdalen Co/ledge,
shown as a complete quadrangle. Note the attempt to
indicate the gate of entrance by a break in the roof of
the range of chambers next to the street. Opposite
Magdalene Colleoe an unbroken row of houses is shown
— which is more or less correct. In this part of Cam-
bridge there are still many old houses, which may well
have been in existence when our plan was drawn.
Behind them is the Norman dwelling-house known at
this day, as in ancient times, by the absurd name of
House of Pythagoras (R), part of which is still standing.
Note in the street, opposite the thoroughfare now called
Northampton Street, an iron grating (T) which in 1574
marked a water course called "Cambridge" — for which
seethe Introduction (p. xxvii). Proceeding northward, we
come to S' Giles Church at the corner of what is now a
road leading to Chesterton, but in 1574 it narrowed to a
mere track ; and nearly opposite to it is S^ Pelers Church,
drawn with some accuracy with a tower and spire. Be-
yond S. Peter's are the words Parochia omiiiinn sancto-
rum adCastniin to preserve the memory of the destroyed
church of All Saints by the Castle; and on the east side
of the street is a delineation of the Castcll, the archi-
tectural history of which has been already sketched in
the Introduction.
Returning to the Great Bridge, and crossing it, we
see on the left an open space, as now, which was doubt-
i6 PLAN BY RICHARD LYNE, 1574
less used as a wharf. On the same side, further to the
south, is S' Clemeyis Church; and close to it is Cleine7is
Ostell {^), a law-students' hostel. At a distance from
S. Clement's which is singularly at variance with the
true distance, is the church lettered S* Piilcher, i.e.
S. Sepulchre's, or, the Round Church. Note the very
small number of houses on this side of the street, as
contrasted with the other. Behind them is The Ki7iges
diche, beyond which again is the common called Green-
croft, indicated by the presence of some sheep feeding.
We will next turn to the left down lesiis La7ie. Note
the paucity of houses, here limited to a single row, with
gardens, on the left hand, before the College is reached.
This College is drawn with more than usual correctness,
at some distance from the highway, with an entrance
gateway, a complete quadrangle, and a central tower on
a building which we know to be the chapel, but which
on the plan looks like a row of chambers.
On the south side of Jesus Lane, occupying the angle
between the lane and the main street, is the large en-
closure lettered Gray Friers, which in 1574 was still the
property of Trinity College. Beyond it there is nothing
but open common, indicated by cattle grazing, with the
exception of two or three houses next the lane, and a
large building with three gables each surmounted by
a cross, which is intended for the manor-house of
S. Radegund. Note the words Barnwell caivscy applied
to the prolongation of Jesus Lane.
Let us walk down Jesus Lane, till we reach the open-
ing of Walks lane, now called King Street, and then,
turning to the right, walk along it. Soon after turning
the corner we come to what is called Christes Colledo;e
ivalke, protected at each end by a stile. This is the walk
PLAN BY RICHARD LYNE, 1574 17
which still exists under the wall of Christ's College
Fellows' Garden. Beyond the walk is a very interesting
representation of a fragment of a cultiira, two strips of
arable ground, on which ripe corn is growing. Con-
tinuing our walk along Walks lane we pass under the
wall of Christ's College Orchard, cross the King's Ditch
by a bridge, and so reach the main street, which seems
to have been still called Bridge Street in this place.
Turning southward, we pass Triniiie Churche on the
right, and presently x^2.z\\ y' gate to Barnewell, at the
corner o{ Peti-curie. Barnwell Gate was made by Henry
the Third as part of his fortifications of the town; Caius
affirms that no trace of it remained in his time, but a
single wooden post marked its site. As we stand at the
gate we have on the left the fa9ade of Christ's College,
with a pretentious gate-tower ornamented with a shield
and supporters — intended evidently for the Lady Mar-
garet's arms. On the right is S. Andrew's Church.
Here we enter Pi^eachers strcate and Preachers Warde,
so called from the Dominicans or Friars Preachers,
whose house, lettered j5*/^^/^^y"rzVrj-, was presently turned
into Emmanuel College.
From the Black Friars we can follow Doudiicers
lane, now called Downing Street and Pembroke Street,
till we reach the corner of the Aicgicstme friers, now the
Museums. The ground is bounded on the east by a
street called Slaughter lane, or more commonly " Fair
Yard lane\" from the Fare yarde at the end of it.
Seventy years since the yard was termed Hog Hill, or
the Hoo-market; and the lane Slauc^hter house lane.
^ Arch. Hist. iii. 147. where .1 lease from the Corporation of Cambridge, dated
28 March, 1783, is quoted.
H.
II
PLAN FROM GEORGE BRAUN'S CIVI-
TATES ORB IS TERRA RUM, i575
This plan first appears in the second book of the folio
collection of maps entitled Civitates Orbis Terrarujn,
by George Braun, or Bruin, and Francis Hogenburg,
published at Cologne between 1572 and i6o6\ The
plan is without date, but a description of Cambridge '
printed on the back, contained in a letter addressed to
Braun by William Soon, is dated from Cologne, 20 May,
1575. William Soon, or Zoon, was educated at Cam-
bridge, where he proceeded B.A. in 1546 — 7, and M.A.
in 1549. He was Professor of Civil Law 1561 — 63.
Subsequently he settled at Cologne, where he acted as
assistant to Abraham Ortelius, the famous geographer^
He tells us in this letter that he had been asked by
Braun to give him some particulars about Cambridge.
This he proceeds to do in a style of hyberbolic lau-
dation, seasoned with the usual exaggeration about
Cantaber and other mythological personages. It is true
that he does not specially commend the plan before us
to his correspondent; but it is inconceivable that he
should not have seen the document respecting which he
was asked to write a letter; and more inconceivable still
that, having seen it, he should have allowed a single
^ There is no date on the title pa<;e, but the licence to print granted by the
Emperor Maximilian II, is dated from Ratisbon, -24 August, 1576; and George
Braun's own preface from Cologne, 1572.
- Cooper, Athfiu?, i. 350.
PLAN OF 1575 19
word of his own to appear in connection with it. On the
supposition that he left Cambridge in 1563, he could not
have entirely forgotten the place in 1 2 years.
The plan is 13J inches high by i 7|- inches wide. It is
therefore about one-third larger than Lyne's plan, but,
so far as the buildings are concerned, this difference is
apparent rather than real. They are of nearly the same
size in the two plans, the additional space being giv^en
to the environs of the town, on which sheep, oxen, and
horses, are grazing. Like Lyne's plan, it is a bird's-eye
sketch; but the spectator is supposed to be standing on
the west side of Cambridge instead of on the south side ;
so that the buildings are drawn from a different point of
view. There is, however, so close a general resemblance
between the two plans, that it seems not unlikely that
they may have been draw^n by the same person; or, if
this explanation be not admitted, the later plan has been
copied from the earlier with much ingenuity so as to
produce an appearance of novelty, without the intro-
duction of any new facts, or a more accurate delineation
of buildings. In fact, the buildings shown by Lyne have
been turned round, and details, similar to his, introduced
into the facades which front the spectator from the altered
l)oint of view. Let us examine the colleges in order.
A I Peterhouse the quadrangle is now^ viewed from
the west; the Master's tower is further exacrgrerated, and
the space which Lyne shows on the west, beyond the
churchyard, is taken to mean a broad entrance to the
College, with a corresponding door inserted under the
west gable of the north range. Pembroke Hall is un-
altered. Bene't College is provided with an imaginary
central door in an equally imaginary west front, at the
north end of which is a tower, due apparently to a con-
20 PLAN OF 1575
fusion with Bene't Church. At Queens' College the two
towers of the gate of entrance are shown, as is also the
square tower in the middle of the south range ; and
the door in the west range, accessible from the bridge,
is correctly drawn: but the name White Friers has got
transferred, from the right position, given by Lyne, to
the western quadrangle. In both plans King's College
Chapel has lofty gables instead of pinnacles on the top
of its towers, of which there are two instead of four;
and the old quadrangle of the College is shown as ex-
tending beyond the north side of the Schools' Quad-
rangle. Braun, however, develops a quadrangle abutting
against the east and west ends of the chapel on the north
side, having evidently misunderstood the description in
the Will of King Henry the Sixth, or perhaps having
only heard a legend of its provisions. It results, how-
ever, from this new arrangement that the belfry and the
Fellows' garden are placed correctly, or nearly so, with
reference to the chapel. At Clare Hall and Trinity Hall
no change has been attempted. Gonville and Caius
College evidently offered considerable difficulty to the
transformer, and he cannot be congratulated on what he
has done. He has reduced Gonville Hall (lettered G2171-
well) to one or at most to two ranges of building; and
what I took to be the Gate of Honour in the former
place has wandered still farther east, and now stands in
a corner of the court with a door at the bottom, like a
French staircase-tower. The buildings of Trinity Col-
lege are jumbled together in inextricable confusion. At
S. John's College the gate of entrance assumes con-
siderable prominence ; but the west range of the quad-
rangle is incorrectly drawn, as are the small kitchen-court
and the garden, which were shown with fair correctness
PLAN OF 1575 21
by Lyne. Magdalene College presents a strange appear-
ance. Lyne had drawn a slight indication of what might
be a gate of entrance in the middle of the west range.
This the draftsman employed by Braun has developed
into a circular tower, external to the quadrangle. At Jesus
College no new features have been introduced, but
prominence is given to the absurd inaccuracies of Lyne,
especially in regard to the gables which crown the two
towers. At Christ's College Lyne's attempt to show a
rectangular gate of entrance ornamented with heraldic
devices, has been vulgarised into a hideous circular
tower.
This plan is copied exactly, so far as the streets and
buildings are concerned, in a work entitled Illiistri-
oriim principumque Urbhun Septentrionaliiwi E^cropcE
iabul(T ; Avistelodanii, ex officina Joannis Jansso}iii, un-
fortunately without date. The description at the back
of the plan is composed of that by Lyne quoted above,
with the letter of William Soon appended to it. This
letter is introduced by the following lines:
Ut vero, mi Lector, accuratissima hujus Urbis et Academije
dcscriptio te minime fallat, earn ex sequentibus Guilielmi {sic) Sooni
doctissimi (}uondam scriptoris et professoris ad Georgium Bruinum
d.uis liiteris facili negotio haurire potes, quce sic habent.
'I'he only differences between the two plans are to
be found in the ornamentation. In both Lyne's list of
Hostels and other buildings reappears in the right upper
corner, on a tablet enclosed in an elaborate border,
but with the items numbered i — 19, instead of being
lettered A — T; and in the left upper corner, on a larger
tablet, encircled with a more elaborate border, enriched
with bunches of fruit and flowers, is a summary descrip-
tion of Cambridge, little more than a tide, obviously
22 PLAN OF 1575
taken from that of Lyne. It may be translated as
follows :
Cambridge, a city of great distinction in right wealthy England,
derived its name from Cantaber, founder of the University. It was
called Cairgrant from the river Granta which flows hard by ; the
Saxons named it Grauntecestre ; and in former times it was styled
Grantebrige.
Above this tablet are the Ruyal arms, surmounted by
the crown, and encircled by the garter, exactly copied,
but on a larger scale, from those of Lyne's plan. In what
may be called Jansson's edition of Braun's plan, the
motto Honi soit qui mal y pcnse is omitted.
In the right lower corner of Braun's edition we see a
gentleman conversing with a lady, and a second gentle-
man advancing towards them. I n Jansson's edition these
figures have been removed.
Such a plan as this is of no authority whatever as
a topographical record, and we have only reproduced it
as a curiosity which, from its date, has obtained a place
among the plans of Cambridge.
We have used, for our reproduction, a copy of
Jansson's edition.
Ill
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
Only one complete copy of this most important plan
is known to be in existence. It is preserved in the
Bodleian Library, Oxford, but, oddly enough, it was not
noticed by any antiquary previous to the late Professor
Willis, whose attention was drawn to it accidentally,
when enquiring in the library for the survey of Oxford
by Ralph Agas\ The two plans were included in the
collections of Thomas Hearne, which came to the Library
in i755,among the other bequests of Richard Rawlinson,
D.C.L. Hearne had received them from Thomas Baker
in 1725, as shown by the following entry in one of his
Common-Place Books:
On the 16'^ of March, 1725, I rec'' from Cambridge two old Maps
(great Rarities and Curiosities) one of Oxford, the other of Cambridge,
being both given me by my learned Friend the Reverend M"" Thomas
IJaker, Bach, of Div. of S' John's College in Cambridge. They are in
a shattered condition. That of O.xford was done by Ralph Agas".
These valuable plans "were some few years ago"
(writes Mr Macray) "carefully mounted on canvas, on
a wooden frame, and covered with elass'" — so that
further injury is impossible. They hang opposite to each
other, in the Selden Library, one on each side of the
great west window.
^ Arch. Hist. i. Introduction, pp. ci — civ.
' This valuable extract w.is kindly communicated to me by my friend Falconer
Madan, M.A.
* Annals 0/ the Bodleian Library, ed. 1, p. 474.
24 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
Some years ago my friend J. E. Foster, M.A., of
Trinity College, Cambridge, found among his father's
antiquarian collections a copy of the central sheet of this
plan, in first-rate condition. As this sheet is perhaps the
most valuable portion of the whole plan, and happens
to be rather seriously damaged in what may be called
the Hearne-Baker copy, it has been reproduced here in
addition to the nine sheets of that copy. As my friend
has most kindly given it to me, I should like to take
this opportunity of tendering to him my most grateful
thanks for so valuable a gift, as I did when I repro-
duced the sheet in my edition of Loggan's Cantabrigia
Ilhistrata \
It is to me quite inexplicable that a plan so large,
and so interesting to a large number of persons, should
now be represented by, practically, a single copy. Where
are the others? and where are the plates from which it
was printed ? It has been suggested to me that possibly
a number of copies may be lying forgotten in a corner
of some College Library; and at my request some of my
friends, librarians in their respective colleges, have made
diligent search, but, hitherto, I regret to say, without
result.
Hamond's plan measures 3 feet lof inches in length,
by 2 feet 10^ inches in depth. It was originally printed
in nine separate pieces, each about fifteen inches wide
by twelve inches high, numbered in the margin for
the guidance of the person who was to mount them on
canvas. The figures i, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, can still be plainly
distinguished ; but 7 has perished. The pieces are
numbered from left to right, beginning with the left
upper corner, and proceeding round the outer margin,
\} This sheet was presented by Mr Clark to the Bodleian Library.]
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 25
so that the central piece would have been the ninth.
A careful examination has failed to discover any figure
upon this piece; and it is possible that its position may
have been thought to be as well indicated by leaving
it blank as by marking it. The plan is washed over
with a brown tint, with the exception of the streets and
open spaces, which are usually left white, and the roofs,
some of which are rudely coloured red. The buildings
are shown in perspective, to the scale of 120 feet to the
inch, extremely well delineated after the manner of a
bird's-eye view, the spectator being supposed to be
placed on the south side of the town ; and the ground
upon which they stand is most carefully laid down to
scale, due proportion being observed between the town
and the environs. The streets, colleges, and churches
are lettered; and the houses in the town are drawn with
the same detail as the colleges.
It is lettered at the top, in the middle of the second
sheet, in large capitals, CxA.NTEBRIGI A. Below this
word are the royal arms, France and England quarterly,
encircled by the garter, and surmounted by the crown.
On the left, under the words SIGEBERTVS REX,
are the arms of East Anglia — three crowns, two and one
— each surmounted by crosses ; and on the right, under
the words B\'RGYS CANTEB., the castle which we
have seen already in Lyne's Plan, apparently intended
to represent the arms of the Town.
In the right upper corner, on Sheet 3, in a frame
surrounded by an ornamental border, is the following
description of the castle:
Castrum quod hodie ruinosum vestigia regalis magnificentia3
expressa monstrat, baud dubie opus erat sub rege Gulielmo primo
inceptum perfectumque. Legimus enim in libro vocato Do.mesdav
26 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
priuatorum sedificia xxvij vt locus vacuus castri constructioni regali
fieret: per ea tempora fuisse demolita.
I append a translation of these sentences:
The castle, which, though now ruinous, shows unmistakeable evi-
dence of royal magnificence, was without doubt begun and finished
in the reign of King William the First. For we read in the book called
Domesday that 27 private houses were pulled down about that time
in order that an open space might be provided for the royal building
of a castle.
Below this, on Sheet 4, surrounded by a similar
frame, is a short history of the Town of Cambridge.
It is a good deal damaged by damp, and here and there
whole words have disappeared, but the restoration of
the original text would not, I imagine, be difficult. Such
a task, however, to judge by what can be easily read,
would hardly be worth the time involved; I shall not
therefore attempt it.
In the right lower corner, on Sheet 5, on an orna-
mental tablet, flanked by columns, and surmounted by
a pediment, is the following important inscription :
Habes in hac charta (Spectator candide) nouam Cantebrigine
descriptionem, quam per scalas mensuram multo quam antehac
accuratius examinatam ad veros situs reduximus. Tu vero qua es
humanitate equi bonique consulas. Interim fruere et bene vale:
CantebrigiK ex aula Clarensi die 22 mensis februarii 1592. Johannes
Hamond.
It may be translated as follows :
Thou shalt find in this plan (Impartial spectator) a new delinea-
tion of Cambridge which we have reduced to the true sites -by means
of measurements tested with far greater accuracy than heretofore.
I pray thee, therefore, of thy courtesy, to be impartial and kind. Mean-
while may pleasure and good health be thine. From Clare Hall at
Cambridge on the twenty-second day of February, 1592. John
Hamond.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND. 1592 27
Beneath this tablet is a second, containing an
elaborate scale, divided into Stadium, Par tic cb {Pe7'ticcz),
Passus, Vi}t(T, Pedes.
Who was John Hamond ? Nothing appears to be
known about him. A John Hamond, of Clare Hall, pro-
ceeded B.A. 1575 — 6, M.A. 1579, but the identification
of him with the author of the plan must remain un-
certain.
Beyond this frame, quite in the corner of the plan,
between the river and the outer margin, is an engraved
shield of arms, qziarterly, i and 4, 2 ba7^s and a chief
indented (Hare) 2 and 3 gy7'07iny of tiuelve (Bassing-
bourn). These are the arms of Robert Hare the
antiquary, second son to Sir Nicholas Hare, Master of
the Rolls, and Catherine, daughter of Sir John Bassing-
bourn. To his liberality, industry, and skill the University
owes the volumes (now in the Registry) into which he
caused to be transcribed a long series of documents
relating to the history, rights, and privileges of the
University and Town. He was thanked by the Public
Orator for his benefactions in 1590 and again in 1591 —
the year before our plan was engraved\ Does not the
presence of this shield, without inscription, or other
method of drawing the attention of the public to it, give
the idea of an hnprimatiir} May it not imply that Hare
approved the plan, and possibly defrayed its cost.'*
At the bottom of the plan (right hand corner of
Sheet 6) the following important words may still be
deciphered :
Augustin Ryther et Petrus Muser sculpserunt.
[Augustin Ryther was associated with Christopher
Saxton in engraving the maps of English counties
J Endownunts, ed. 1904, p. 575.
28 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
published by the latter in 1579. He also engraved a
map in L. W3.genQr's A/arzners A/invr, 1 5SS,and eleven
maps and title in Expcditionis Hispanoriun hi Angliam
vera descriptio, by Petruccio Ubaldino, London, 1588.
A translation of the latter work, made for A, Rytter,
was "to be solde at the shop of A Rytter, being a little
from Leaden Hall next to the signe of the Tower"
(1590): it contains engraved title and arms and is dedi-
cated by Rytter to Lord Charles Howard'. Of Peter
Muser nothing is known.]
In the left lower corner (Sheet 7), on a tablet
surrounded by an ornamental border, is a short history
of the University of Cambridge, making a pendant to
the similar history of the Town on Sheet 3, already
described. The middle and lower parts of this tablet
have been seriously damaged by damp; but, to judge by
what has been preserved, the world has not lost much.
The author begins by referring the origin of the Uni-
versity, as well as of the Town, to the mythical Cantaber,
son-in-law to Gurguntius, King of Britain, who reigned
375 B.C. The University so founded acquired great
celebrity, but in process of time, in consequence of a
scries of misfortunes, a fresh start became necessary.
In this extremity Sigebert, King of the East Angles,
took the matter in hand, and restored the pristine pros-
perity. W^e should perhaps rejoice that the rest of the
story is unintelligible. The names of Felix, Alured, and
Pope Honorius emerge from the ruins of the text, but
no connected narrative is possible.
In the left upper corner of the plan, occupying the
whole of the first Sheet, is a list of the Colleges,
Houses, or Halls of Scholars, with a summary notice
[' Information supiilied by Mr G. J. Gray.]
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 29
in each case of the Founder, and the date of founda-
tion. The arms of these educational bodies form a
border to the sheet.
I shall translate the whole of Hamond's list, and
reproduce the arms from the paper by my friend
W. H. St John Hope, M.A., On the Arnioi-ial Ensigns
of the University and Colleges of Canihndge, which he
read before the Cambridge Antiquarian Society in
1892', as the shields figured by Hamond are frequently
damaged by damp, or are slightly incorrect. I have also
to thank Mr Hope for adding the arms of Michael House,
King's Hall, Clare Hall, and God's House. The numbers
prefixed to the paragraphs are those of Hamond. It
will be noticed that if the sheet be divided by an ima-
ginary line extending from top to bottom, even numbers
are on the left, uneven on the right.
Hamond's list, though it begins with the Public
Schools, is headed :
Colleges, Houses, or Halls of Scholars, endowed with property
and rents, in number one and twenty, enumerated in the exact order
of their foundation, though at the present time, owing to amalgama-
tion of foundations, they have been reduced to sixteen.
I. Public Schools were arranged and built from ancient times
whereof no record has been preserved. But the new and splendid
i-difice thereof, in form like a College quadrangle, which we behold
to-day, is recorded to have been partly built at the cost of the Uni-
versity after the year of our Lord 1 136 ; partly to have been extended
by subscription, out of donations gathered together from several pious
benefactors. Of these the most important were William Thorpe,
Ixjrd Chief Justice of England in the reign of King Henry the
Fourth, and the year of Our Lord 1400; and Thomas Rotherham,
Archbishop of York, in the reign of King Edward the Fourth, and
the year 1476".
* C. A. S. /Vv<. and Connn. viii. 107 — 133. The paper was read i6th
November, 189:.
"^ This passage is full of mistakes. The earliest mention of "our great schools
in School Street" is in 1347 {Arch. Hist. iii. 10). The foundation is said to
30 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
The arms of the University have been already de-
scribed in the Introduction.
2. College or House of S. Peter, founded by Hugh de Balsham,
Bishop of Ely, in the reign of King Henry the Third, and the year
of Our Lord, 12 ^g\
The arms here figured are those traditionally as-
signed to the Founder, ^^/^, thi-ee pallets gides (fig. i),
and were used by the College as its third shield.
The arms now borne by the College (fourth shield)
in accordance with a grant by Robert Cooke, Claren-
cieux, in 1572, show four pallets instead of three, and
are within a bordure of the see of Ely, gules semy of
gold crozuns (fig. 2)-.
3. College or House of S. Michael the Archangel, founded by
Hervey de Stanton, Canon of York and Wells, Chancellor of the
Exchequer, in the reign of King Edward the Second, and the year
of Our Lord, 1324', It is now incorporated with Trinity College.
have been laid by Sir Robert Thorpe, Master of Pembroke Hall 1347 — 64, and
Lord Chancellor 1371. He died suddenly 29 June, 1372, leaving his estates to
his executors, one of whom, Richard de Treton, Master of Corpus Christi College
1376 — 1377, gave 40 marks to the University. Subsecjuently, the work of building
the Schools appears to have been carried on at the expense of Sir William Thorpe,
brother to Sir Robert, for in 139S (?o June) the University agreed with his
executors that exequies should be said for the repose of the souls of Sir William
and his wife. Lady Grace, because they (the executors) "had caused to be built
Divinity Schools, with a Chapel for the souls of the aforesaid William and Grace
his wife" {Arch. Hist. iii. 10, 11). Our writer confounds this William Thorpe
wth another William Thorpe who was Chief-Justice of the King's bench, and
disgraced for bribery 1350.
The east side of the quadrangle was completed by Archbishop Rotherham in
or about 1475, in which year the University caused his name to be entered among
its principal benefactors because he had "completed the Schools, together with a
new Library over them " (Arch. Hist. iii. 15).
' This date is wrong. Balsham removed his scholars from the Hospital of
S.John to two Hostels near the Church of S. Peter, 31 March, 1284; and his
removal was confinned by Letters Patent of King Edward the P'irst, 28 May,
1284.
• Hope, ut supra, p. 112.
' The College was solemnly opened by the Founder 27 Sept. 1324. Arch.
Hist. i. xxxviii.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
31
The arms are those commonly assigned to Hervey
de Stanton : vaii- and a cantoji giiles (fig. 3).
4. College or Hall of the University, founded by Richard Badew,
Chancellor of the University, in the reign of Edward the Second, and
the year of Our Lord, 1326^ It is now incorporated with Clare Hall.
Third shield of Peterhouse.
Fig. 1. Fourth shield of Peter-
house, 1572.
The arms are those assigned to Richard de Badew,
three ca(^/es on a bend cotised (fig, 4).
r
Fig. 3. Arms o[ Michael House. Fig. 4. Arms of University Hall.
■ Rich, de Badew declared the House open, 15 July, 1326. Ibid. i. xl.
32
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
5. College or Hall of the King, founded by King Edward the
Third, in the year of Our Lord, 1337^ It is now incorporated in
Trinity College founded by King Henry the Eighth.
The arms shown by Hamond are those of England
within a compony border (fig. 5), but there is no proof
that they were ever borne by King's Hall.
Fig. 5. Arms of King's Hall.
Fig. 6. Arms of Clare Hall.
6. College or Hall of Clare, founded by Dame Elizabeth de
Burgo, Countess of Clare, University Hall aforesaid \vith its revenues
being included in her foundation, in the reign of Edward the Third,
and the year of Our Lord, 1340-.
The shield is almost obliterated, but there can be
no doubt that it bore the arms of Clare Hall, namely,
those of the Foundress, which also appear on the first
seal of the College. They are those of Clare, impaling
Burgh, within a black bordure se7ny of tears (fig. 6)^
^ The Charter of Edward III is dated 7 Oct. 1337. Ibid. i. xli.
2 Walter de Thaxted, Master of the " House of the University in Cambridge''
made over to the Lady Clare and her heirs for ever the advowson of the House,
5 April, 1 340. Wardale, Clare College, 1899, p. 3.
' Hope, ut stipra, p. 114.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
33
7. College or Hall of Dame Marie de Valence, or of Pembroke
founded by Marie de Valence, a French lady, widow of Audomar Earl
of Pembroke, in the reign of Edward the Third, in the year of Our
Lord, 1347'.
Mr Hope writes of this shield (fig. 7) : "It consists
of the arms of the Foundress, as shown on her seal,
without any difference. These arms are derived from
those of De Valence, marshalled with those of S. Paul
by the curious process known as dimidiation. This early
method of combining the arms of husband and wife was
I'i/,- 7. Arms of Pembroke Hall.
Fig. 8. Arms of Corpus Christi
College.
accomplished by halving or dimidiating the two shields
vertically, and joining the dexter half of one to the
sinister half of the other. In practice a litde more than
the half of each shield was sometimes shown, as in the
e.xample under notice, when two of the three pallets and
three of the five points of the label in the S. Paul arms
are given'."
' The royal license fur ihe foundation is dated 24 Dec. 1347. Arc/i. HUt.
i. xlii.
^ Hope, ut su/ira, p. 11 4.
H.
34
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
8. College of Corpus Christi and S. Mary the Virgin, or of
S. Benedict, founded by brethren of the Gild of Corpus Christi,
and of the Gild of S. Mary the Virgin, in the reign of King Edward
the Third, and about the year of Our Lord, 1347 ^
This shield is much damaged in Hamond's plan. The
arms were granted to the College by Robert Cooke,
Clarencieiix in 1570, and are : quarterly i and ^ gules a
pelican in her piety silver {or the Gild of Corpus Christi ;
Fig. 9.
Arms of Trinity Hall, ancient.
Fig. 10.
Arms of Trinity Hall, 1575.
2 a7id 3 azure three silver lily-flowers for the Gild of Our
Lady (fig. S)=.
9. College or Hall of the Holy Trinity begun by a Prior of Ely
in order that he might lodge therein his monks sent thither for pur-
poses of study ^. Afterwards it was founded and endowed by William
Bateman, Bishop of Norw^ich, in the reign of King Edward the Third,
in the year of Our Lord, 1347'*.
* This date is correct. See History of Corpus Christi College, by H. P. Stokes,
LL.D. 189S, Chapter I. - Hope, ut supra, p. 117.
' This hostel was bought by John de Crawden, Prior i3:!i— 41, and sold to
Bp. Bateman for /'400 in or about 1350. Arch. Hist. i. -210.
* The Bishop's charter of foundation is dated 15 January, 1349 — 50, but he may
well have been making preparations in 1347. Arch. Hist, ut supra; Trinity Hall,
by H. E. .Maiden, Chapter I.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 35
The arms shown by Hamond are those of the
Founder, Bishop Bateman : sable a crescent ermi7ic
within a bordure cng7'ailed silver (fig. 9). In 1575
these interesting arms were set aside by Robert Cooke,
Clarencieux, who granted to the College a crest, and
altered the ancient ettgrailed silver bordure to a plain
bordure ermine (fig. io)\
10. College or Hall of Goneville, founded by Edmund Gonevile
{sic), Rector of Terington in the County of Norfolk, in the reign of
King Edward the Third, and the year of Our Lord, 134S. It is now
incorporated in the College of Goneville and Caius.
License of foundation was granted to Gonville by
Edward the Third, 28 January, 1347 — 48. The College
had no arms of its own, but used those of the Founder
until the re-foundation by Dr Caius. These are shown
by Hamond: silver a chevro7i bctiveen tivo coitple-closes
indented sable with three gold scallops on the chevron.
These arms are shown in the dexter half of the shield
of Gonville and Caius College (fig. 20)".
11. College of God's House, first founded by William Bingham,
Rector of the Church of S. John Zachary, London, within the pro-
cincl of the present King's College, in the reign of King Henry the
Sixth, in the year of Our Lord, 1442. It was founded for the second
lime by the same King Henry the Sixth in Preachers' Street, opposite
to the Church of S. Andrew, in the 24th year of his reign, and the
year of Our Lord, 1445. It is now incorporated in Christ's College*.
The College had no arms, but Hamond shows a
shield bearing arms intended for those of Bingham,
namel)' : gold a /ess gules charged zvith three silver
' Hope, ;// i;//rj, p, 115.
' Hope, «/ J.v/ra, pp. 115, 177.
" Bingham founded God's House on its first site in or about 1439; ^"<^ 't ''^'
ceived a royal charter as a College, 9 Feb. 1441 — 42. The new site in Preachers'
Street was cont"irmed to liim by Letters Patent, 26 Aug. 1446.
3—2
36 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
water-buckets (fig. n); but Mr Hope points out that
there is no evidence that these were borne by him'.
12. College of S. Mary and S. Nicholas, called the Royal College,
founded by King Henry the Sixth about the year of Our Lord, 1443-
"The royal foundation of King's College on its first
establishment in 1 441, so far as we at present know, had
neither arms nor seal. On its enlargement, in 1443, the
splendid silver seal, which is still in use, was engraved.
Fig. II. Arms of God's House.
It had in base a shield of great interest, which may be
blazoned as: Sable, a mitre pierced by a crosier between
two lily flowers proper ; a chief per pale aziire with a
fleur-de-lis of Frajice, and gules a lion of England
(fig. 12).
"This beautiful composition contains quite an epi-
tome of the history of the college ; the lilies of Our Lady,
and the mitre and crosier of St Nicholas, denote the
patron saints in whose honour it was founded, while the
royal patronage is shown by the chief derived from the
royal arms
^ Hope, lit supra, p. ii8.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND. 1592
37
"By letters patent dated January ist, 1448—9,
Henry VI authorised his two colleges at Cambridge
and Eton to bear arms The Cambridge grant
authorises an entirely new shield. The royal chief of
the first arms is retained, but the lilies and the mitre
and crosier give place to three silver roses, and the arms
of Kinci-'s College now are: Sable, tJirec roses ardent ;
a chief per pale azure witk a fleiir-de-lis of France, and
gules a lion of Englaiid" (fig. 13)^
I'ig. \1.
Kirst Shield of King's College.
Second Shield of King's College.
Hamond figures the second of these two shields; but,
unfortunately, his drawing is much damaged by damp.
13. College of S. Margaret and S. Bernard, commonly called
Queens' College, founded by Margaret Queen of England, daughter
of Rene King of Sicily and Jerusalem, wife of King Henry the Sixth,
during the reign of that King, in the year of Our Lord, 144S.
The arms shown by Hamond are those of Margaret
of Anjou, with six quarterings, described as follows by
• Hope, ut supra, p. fi8.
38
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
Robert Cooke, Clarencieux, in 1575: '' Qiiarterly : the
Jirsi quarter harry of eight argetit arid gules (tor Hun-
gary) ; the second asur semy fiower-de-litcis gold a label
of three points aigent (for Naples); the third argent a
crosse batune bctwen foisjcr crosses golde (for Jerusalem);
the fourth asur semy flower-de-hicis golde a bo7^der gules
(for Anjou); the fifte asur two lucis iiidorced semy crosse
crosselets golde (for Bar) ; the sixt golde on a bend thre
egles displaide argent (for Lorraine)" (iig. 14)'.
Fig. 14. Arras of Queens' College
first Shield.
Fig. 15-
Arms of S. Catharine's College.
14. College or Hall of S. Catharine, founded by Robert Woode-
larke, doctor of Divinity, Chancellor of the University, and Provost of
King's College, in the reign of King Edward the Fourth, in the year
of Our Lord, 1473'.
1 Hope, ut supra, p. 120. Hist, of the Queens' College of S. Margaret and
S. Bernard, by W. G. Searle, M.A., p. 36.
' Robert Woodelarke was Provost of King's College, 1452 — 1479; ^"^ Chan-
cellor of the University in 1459, 1460, and 1462. He made the first purchase for
the site of his intended College in 1459 ! tiut the outbreak of civil war compelled
him to lay aside his plan for some years, and he did not obtain his charter till
15 Edward IV, 16 Aug. 1475. Arch. Hist. i. Ixvii.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 39
"Robert Wodelarke's 'college or hall of S. Kathc-
rine the virgin' seems always to have borne for its arms:
gules.aKathcrinc wheel goId(^g. 15). No grant, however,
exists for this shield, and we have no earlier authority
for it than the Catalogus of 1572. At the Visitation of
1684 it was noted to 'have been auncientlie borne and
used by the Master and Fellows of the said House.' In
his Sphere of Gentry, Sylvanus Morgan gives the field
of the shield as sable instead of gules, perhaps from
Fig. 16.
Arms of Jesus College, 1575.
Fig. 17. Arms of Christ's College
and S. John's College.
analogy with the arms of the founder's college of King's.
but the red for the virgin martyr seems more fitting'.'
15. College of Jesu and S. Radegund, founded by John Alcock,
Bishop of Ely, in the reign of King Henry the Seventh, and in the
year of Our Lord, 1497.
The present arms (fig. i6), which are those of the
Founder within a bordure of the see of Ely, were
granted, with a crest, by Cooke in 1575. They were
^ Hope, ut supra, p. 123.
40 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
blazoned in the letters patent as: silver a f esse bettiuce7i
thre cocks heads razed sable co7nbed and wailed a border
gttles seniy crowns golde'^.
These arms are usually drawn, as by Hamond, with
a mitre on the fess, a practice for which there is no
proper authority.
16. College of Christ, founded by the Lady Margaret Countess
of Richmond and Derby, mother of King Henry the Seventh, during
the reign of the said King, in the year of Our Lord, 1 505, God's House
before mentioned being included in her foundation.
1 7. College of S. John the Evangelist, founded by the executors of
the Lady Margaret aforesaid in the reign of King Henry the Eighth,
and the year of Our Lord, 1509, a House of Canons Regular or
Brethren of the Hospital of S. John the Evangelist having been in-
cluded in her foundation.
The two Colleges have always borne the same arms,
namely, those of their Foundress : France viodern and
England q^iarterly with a bordnre compony silver and
aznre (fig. 17)".
18. College of S. Mary Magdalene or Buckingham was begun to be
built by Henry Duke of Buckingham ; but the buildings, the con-
struction of which had been interrupted, were almost finished by the
Abbots of Ely, Ramsey and "Walden. Finally Thomas Audeley, Baron
of Walden, and Chancellor of England, founded and endowed a
College there under the title of S. Mary Magdalene in the reign of
King Henry the Eighth, in the year of Our Lord, 1542^
No arms of Buckino;ham Colleq:e are known.
The arms of Magdalene College are those of its
Founder, to whom they were granted in 1 53S : (jnar/erly,
^ Hope, nt supra, p. 124.
^ Hope, ut supra, p. 125.
' Hamond reproduces in this passage a tradition preserved by Dr Caius (Hist.
Caniab. AcaJ. p. 77). This Duke of Buckingham was beheadcil by Richard the
Third in I483. Audley's charter is dated 3 April, 1542. Arc/i. Hist. i. Ixxvii. ;
"• 359-362-
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 41
per pale indented, gold and azure, in the 2nd a^id yd
quarters an eagle displayed gold ; over all on a bend
azure a fret betzueeii two martlets gold (fig. i8)\
19. College of the Holy and Undivided Trinity founded by
King Henry the Eighth, in the year of Our Lord, 1546. The House
of S. Micliacl and King's Hall above mentioned together with their
revenues having been included in his newly founded College in the
year of Our Lord, 1546.
The arms of Trinity College are: silver a chevron
bctiveen three roses gules ; on a chief of the last, a lion
passant gardant befiueen two books gold (fig. 19)'.
I"ig. iS. Arms of Magdalene College. Fig. 19. Arms of Trinity College.
20. College of Goneville and Caius, founded by John Caius, doctor
of McdiciiK', formerly Fellow of Goneville Hall, in the reign of Queen
Mary, in the year of Our Lord, 1557, Goneville Hall aforesaid with its
revenues having been included in his foundation.
The arms of Gonville, described above No. lo, are
here impaled with those of Caius (fig. 20), which were
granted to him by Laurence Dalton, Norroy King of
Arms, in 1560. These arms are described in the
grant as :
' Hope, ttt supra, p. 126.
42
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
Golde, semyd with flowre gentle in the myddle of the cheyfe,
sengrene resting uppon the heades of ij serpentes in pale, their tayles
knytte together, all in proper colour, restinge uppon a square marble
stone vert, betwene their brestes a book sable, garnished gewles,
buckles gold... betokening by the boke, learning ; by the ij serpentes
resting upon the square marble stone, wisdome with grace founded
and stayed upon vertues stable stone ; by sengrene and flower gentil,
immortalite y' never shall fade.
Hamond omits the bordure compony silver and sable
which was added to the shield by Robert Cooke, Claren-
cieux, in 1575'.
Arms of Gonville and
Caius College.
Fig. 21. Arms of Emmanuel
College.
21. Emmanuel College, founded by Sir Walter Mildmay, Coun-
cillor to Queen Elizabeth and Chancellor of her Exchequer, in the
reign of that Queen, in the year of Our Lord, 1584, on a site formerly
of the Friars Preachers.
"The arms borne by Emmanuel College are: silver
a lion ranipajit azure, holding in his dexter paw a
wreath of laurel vert, and tuith a scroll issning from
his 7no2ith with the ivord E M M A N U E L (fig. 2 1 ). These
' Hope, ut supra, p. 177.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 43
arms were granted to the college in 1588, four years
after its foundation, by Cooke, Clarencieux. They are
derived from the arms of the founder, who bore silver
three lions rampant azio'c^y
Hamond omits the scroll.
I will proceed, in the next place, to describe
Hamond's plan in detail, beginning, as in the case of
Lyne's plan, at the south end of the Town' (Sheet 7).
On the east side of Trompyngton Strete, as in Lyne,
are the words Spitel Ende, at the south end of an en-
closure measuring, by Hamond's scale, about 340 feet
from north to south, by 100 feet from east to west. At
its southern end is the Spital, or Hospital of S. Anthony
and S. Eligius, a building in two wings with a garden
behind it, exactly as it is shown in the plan of Custance
(1798). A lane at the northern end of the enclosure,
which existed in 1 798, led to arable land eastward. Next
to this is Chanons close''; after which is a succession of
houses and gardens, some of them of considerable
extent, and lastly, at the corner of T7'07npymgto7i Strete
and Dowe dyers La7ie, is Pembroke Hall.
In order to make the topography of this College
and its immediate neighbourhood as clear as possible,
I have here reproduced a facsimile of Hamond, on a
somewhat slightly reduced scale, which was made for
the Architectural History (fig. 22).
When the Foundress began to acquire the site, she
* Hope, ut supra, p. 128.
' For the topography of this part of Cambridge consult Outside the Trum-
pington GaUs, by Rev. H. P. Stokes, LL.D. (Camb. Ant. Soc. 8yo. Publ. No.
XLIV., 1908).
[3 Of this close Fuller in his History (ed. Prickett and Wright, p. 46) writes:
"White Canons, almost over against Peter House, where now a brick wall and an
inn with the sign of the Moon." The wall is shown in the plan, but there is no
indication of an inn.]
44
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
purchased, 14 September, 1346, from Herveyde Stanton,
Rector of Elm, and probably a nephew of the Founder
of Michael House, a messuage described in the convey-
ance as "between a Hostel of the University on the one
part, and the King's Ditch belonging to the Town of
Cambridge on the other; one head abutting on the
King's High way, and the other on a lane which leads
to Swinecroft\" The King's Ditch has been already
described in the Introduction. It will be noticed that
the name, as used in 1346, applies to the road beside
ting
Fig. 22, Pembroke Hall, reduced from Hamond's plan.
the Ditch, as well as to the Ditch itself. The eastern
abuttal of Stanton's messuage is the narrow lane, leading
from the road by the Ditch, otherwise Dowe dyers Lane,
to the open space south of Pembroke Hall orchai'de, and
east of the houses between the Hall and Chanons close.
When the conveyance was drawn this northern portion
of the common land was called Siviiiccroft, a name which
in Lyne is restricted to the southern portion. The part
which is lettered on our plan S. Thomas lees, is evidently
1 Arch. Hist. i. p. in.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 45
intended to represent pasture, which extends eastward as
far as Preachers Strecte, while the ground to the south,
behind CJianons close, and behind the houses between
it and Spite/ ende, is laid out in strips of arable, a few
running north and south, but the greater part running
east and west\ The whole of this ground was part of
Ford Field.
East of the lane leading to Swinecroft is (i) an
enclosure next the street divided by fences into several
plots, with houses. The whole represents Paschal Yard,
which was leased to Pembroke Hall in 1609 and bought
by them in 1S33"; (2) a larger enclosure planted with
trees. This is the acre of meadow bought by the Found-
ress 4 April, 1363, for use as an orchard. In the south-
west corner of this ground is an enclosure which may
be intended for the Tennis court referred to in some
extracts from College Accounts made by Dr Matthew
Wren :
1564. Boards to make a tenyse court (;^i. o. o.).
Lyne shows a large pigeon house in the middle of
this orchard.
The southern abuttal of Stanton's messuage is a
building called University Hostel. It does not appear
that this was used for the accommodation of students
like the other Hostels; nor is its name recorded in any
of the lists of Hostels. The Foundress bought it from
the University, 1 1 December, 1351 ; and, possibly, part
of it was used for her quadrangle. However this may
be, it was certainly rebuilt in I579^ and was probably
* Maitland, Tcncuship and Borough, pp. ii: — Ii6. Professor Maitland notes
that these Lees had once been ploughed in selions, and that they may be seen
to this day, east of the avenue of Downing College. Ibid. p. 115, note 3.
* Arch. IJist. i. p. 125.
3 In the MS. history of the Masters of the College by Dr Matthew Wren,
preserved at Pembroke, is the following passage. The annalist is recording the
46 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
then used as a pensionary. It was pulled down, at least,
in part, in 1659, when Sir Robert Hitcham's building,
on the south side of the second court, was begun.
Hamond shows the primitive quadrangle of Pem-
broke Hall, and adjoining it on the south, a second and
smaller quadrangle, which may, I think, be identified
with University Hostel, as the extract quoted in the
note below says expressly that " it was rebuilt on the
same site."
These two pieces of ground were succeeded by three
others; Cosyn's Place; ground belonging to a chantry
in the Church of S. Mary the Less; and Bolton's or
Knapton's Place. These may, perhaps, be indicated by
the three strips south of the building which I have
ventured to identify with University Hostel. South
of them again was S. Thomas' Hostel, acquired from
S. John's College in 145 1, which I identify with the
large building set back from Tro^iipyngtou sti^ete with
two wings on both its east and west sides, and an
orchard behind, stretching back as far as the Lees, where
a large barn-like building is shown. This Hostel was for
students of Arts, and was governed, like the rest of those
institutions, by an interior and exterior Principal. It was
attached to the College, to which it paid rent in the
same manner as Physwick Hostel to Gonville and Caius,
or S. Bernard's Hostel to Corpus Christi. It was sup-
pressed at about the same time as some others (after
1526), and then let partly as separate tenements, partly
reserved for College use\
For the identification of the houses which intervened
good deeds of Wm. Fulke (1578—89): "Anno 1579, ipso Authore, a-'dificiuin
illud extruitur quod codem loco situm cum sit, etiamnum appellanius Ilospitivnn
Universitatis huicque operi ipse Custos viginti libras confeit; reliquum onus
Collegio imponitur."
^ Arch. Hist. i. p. 124.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND. 1592 47
between what I have suggested for S. Thomas' Hostel
and Chanons close we have but few data. The most in-
teresting appear to have been (i) a house tenanted by
a family named Swyn, who, according to Dr Stokes,
gave their name to the neighbouring croft; and (2) Pater-
noster Hostel, owned by John Paternoster, who flourished
in the middle of the thirteenth century'.
We now cross the street and follow it on its w^estern
side to Peterhouse. The area which now comprises part
of Scroope Terrace, S. Peter's Terrace, the grounds
of Scroope House and of Grove Lodge and the New
Fellows' Garden of Peterhouse is represented by Hamond
as a meadow, without divisions or house-enclosures. It
is fenced from the road and on the side next Peterhouse,
and it extends as far as the brook which is the eastern
boundary of Coe Pen. Lyne's plan shows that this land
lay in pasture in his time, and it seems to have been
reckoned as a part of "Coe Fen Leys": but, as the
terriers of Barnwell Field show, it had once been divided
into arable strips, or "selions"." l^he southern part of
it, called Mortimer's dole, belonged to the manor of
Newnham and was granted by Lady Ann Scroope to
Gonville Hall, about 1501. The northern part, con-
sisting of seven acres, was called Inglis Croft, otherwise
Volye Croft, and lay next the wall of Peterhouse Grove.
This part belonged to the White Canons, whose house
faced it on the opposite side of Trumpington Street. It
was acquired by Peterhouse in 1569^
Peter Howse backcside & "wa/kes (see fig. 23) is the
name given by Hamond to the ground now occupied by
1 Dr Stokes, ut stifra, Chapter VI. and the Index.
^ Maitland, Tr.tmship and Borough, pp. 109 — ill.
' Walker, History 0/ Peterhouse, p. 11.
48 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
the College Grove and the Fitzwilliam IVIuseum. This
ground, extending as far as Coe Fen, had been arable
in the thirteenth century \ The southern half of it was
called Wynwick's croft, after a fourteenth century tenant.
The northern half was surrendered to the Collecre in
(Peter JCcujfc ""^m/^
^'g- 23. Peterhouse, reduced from Hamond's Map of Cambridge, 1=92.
1307 by the Friars of the Sack, tos:ether with the stone
manse on it which they occupied. Hamond represents i
the whole of this Backside as enclosed by a wall: it was i
built in 1 501 and still exists along the western boundary j
^ Anh. Hist. IV, Peterhouse, fig. i and Maitland, ut supra, p. in. '
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 49
and along the southern boundary as far as the site of
the Fitzwilliain Museum. The Backside is bordered
on all sides, except the southern, by trees and shrubs,
and a row of houses parts it from Trumpington Street'.
About the middle of the western side the Tennis Court
is shown. The Fellows' Garden, which once was the
Master's Garden, Is surrounded by a wall and planted
with trees, and lies to the south of the range con-
taining the Hall and Combination Room, but does not
reach as far as the street: a passage, fenced at either
end, leads from the street to the Garden. At the west
end of the Hall we distinguish the door at the southern
end of the screens passage: it opens on a small yard,
through which the Garden and the Backside were ap-
proached. In the position of the present Gisborne
Court there are a kitchen court and cook's garden with
offices disposed about them.
In the southern range of the principal quadrangle,
facing the Garden, the Hall is indicated by three large
windows, and at its south-eastern end is shown the
Master's turret, by which the upper floor of the Lodge
was reached. The quadrangle is surrounded by ranges
of chambers, except on the eastern side, where a wall,
removed in 162S, separates it from the outer court.
The northern range is prolonged in this outer court as
far as to the houses facing the street, but the southern
range ends a few feet short of them. In 1590 — i the
College had begun, at this end of the southern range,
the Library, for which Dr Perne made provision in his
will; but it was not completed until 1594 — 5. Hamond,
^ The old houses which fronted Trumpington Street before the Fitzwilliam
Museum was built are shown in Ackermann's view of the front of Pembroke. The
two next adjoining the east end of the Library range appear in Storer's illustration
(fig. 4 in the Arch. Hist. i. p. 5), published 1827 — 9.
H. 4
50 PLAN BY JOHiN HAMOND. 1592
however, shows, perhaps in anticipation, the block con-
taining Perne's Library.
At the eastern end of the Library, extending from
it at riofht angles southwards, Hamond shows a small
building, and opposite to it and reaching as far as the
northern range is a long range fronting the street. The
two buildings are connected at their southern end by a
wall. When Bishop Balsham transferred his scholars
from the Hospital of S. John to the Peterhouse site
he housed them in two "hostels," next the church of
S. Peter without Trumpington Gate (Little S. Mary's),
and assigned the church for their use. During the
Mastership of Dr Matthew Wren two important ad-
ditions to the Colleo'c buildinofs were made. In 1628 —
32 a new Chapel was built, and in 1633 the building
containing Dr Perne's Library was prolonged to the
street. These additions necessitated the removal of the
range fronting the street and of the small block opposite
to it and next Dr Perne's Library. In these buildings
were contained "the Great" and "the Little Hostel."
The Little Hostel, in 1626, contained seven chambers.
As it was not destroyed until after the Chapel was
completed it evidently stood clear of it. The Great
Hostel seems to have stood on or near the site of the
addition made to the Library in 1633 and contained ten
chambers^ These may have been the actual hostels
in which Balsham established his scholars in 12S4.
Hamond gives a more accurate representation of the
street front than is attempted by Lyne. A door is
shown near the southern end, opening on the street.
The principal entrance of the College was near the
western end of the northern range, where Hamond
* Walker, Histary of Piterhouse, p. 20.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 51
marks a door, which on the outer side opened on the
churchyard of Little S. Mary. At Corpus also the
approach to the College was through a churchyard. In
the western range there is another door, approached
by a lane which was the western boundary of Little
S. Mary's churchyard.
Of the church of Lite I S. Marie, which served the
College as its Chapel until 162S, the plan shows the
large east window, a truncated tower at the north-west
angle, and on the southern side the vestry and the
gallery connecting the church with the northern range
of the College\ The northern limit of the churchyard
is Little S. Mary's Lane, which is marked, but not
named, in the plan, An enclosed pasture field, con-
taining no buildings, occupies the space at the west
end of the churchyard and reaches to the fen. At the
western end of Little S. Mary's Lane, and between it
and Mill Lane, are some important-looking buildings
disposed about a quadrangle, the use and ownership of
which are not known.
Between Little S. Mary's Lane and Mill Lane
Hamond shows a square close containing two build-
ings— one flanking Little S. Mary's Lane, the other
at the corner of Mill Lane and Trumpington Street,
immediately opposite Pembroke gate. These buildings,
which do not look important, represent what remained
in 1592 of the manor-house which was called Cotton
Hall, from its owners, the Cottons, a family well known
in the town and county from the fifteenth century on-
wards. At an earlier period the so-called manor, which
was extensive both in the borough and the shire, had
^ Arch. Hist. i. p. 23. Fig. 23, p. 48, does not reproduce the details of the
plan quite accurately.
52 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND. 1592
belonged to the Cayly family and was known as Caylys.
About the year 1529 the farmhouse of Cotton Hall was
decayed and had fallen down, and the site was unin-
habited'. The manor afterwards passed into the hands
of Dr Harvey, Master of Trinity Hall, who bequeathed
it to his College in 15S4. A house which stood on this
site and is described as an "old brick mansion" is
mentioned by Lysons" as having been pulled down,
probably in the eighteenth century.
Mill Lane, which on either side is flanked by de-
tached houses and gardens, conducts us to The Kynges
myll, which is represented as spanning the eastern
branch of the river' (Sheet 8). The lane is skirted on
its northern side by the King's Ditch, which is crossed by
two foot-bridges. The Ditch, as an open watercourse,
crosses Mill strete, which here is not continuous with
the loneer street of the same name which lav between
Queens' College and S. Catharine's Hall. Between Mill
Street and the river there is a row of small houses.
The area bounded south and north by Mill Lane
and Silver Street is shown crowded with houses, court-
yards and gardens. One of the houses which face
Trumpington Street was the Cardinal's Cap, an inn
famous in the early years of the seventeenth century :
it stood on part of the site of the University Press^
We may, for the present, leave unnoticed Queens'
Colleee and the buildings which border Silver Street
on its north side and proceed to the bridge at its western
* Cooper, Annals, ii. p. 39 note.
^ Cambridgeshire, p. 144.
' In earlier, as well as later times, there were two Mills, known as the King s
and the Bishop's Mill: but from the days of Queen Elizabeth they stood under one
roof, and are so shown by Ilamond.
* Arch. Hist. iii. p. 135.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 53
end, where we cross the united courses of the river as
it comes from the two mills. The bridge, if we may
trust Lyne and Hamond, w\is a railed bridge of planks,
without arch or piers \ The smaller bridge, near the
Hermitage, was not even railed. The southern side
of Sih^er Street, where is now the Anchor Inn and boat-
house, was, in Hamond's day, open to the Mill Pool.
Above the King's Mill stretches Sheep's Green, on
which grazing sheep are figured. Beyond the bridge,
in Hamond's plan, as in Lyne's, all appearance of a
road ends, and traffic found its way over an open green
to the second of the two bridges, w^hich together were
known as Small Bridges. This second bridge crossed
a considerable branch of the river, which came from
Newnham Mill, and survives in an attenuated form as
the ditch which bounds Queens' Grove on its western
side. Near this bridge from a very early date had
existed a Hermitage, which was the property of the
townsmen. To the Hermitage was annexed a chapel,
licensed in 1396 for the celebration of divine service".
The hermit was permitted to take toll from passengers
and was required to repair the bridge and the road
leading to Barton. He had a garden and was allowed
to use the willows growing in it and along the causeway
for the repair of the bridge and of the road, which was
often reported to be slippery and dangerous. In 1547
the Corporation agreed to sell the Hermitage and chapel,
but they were apparently in existence in 1 549^ Hamond
shows a small island — the same which still exists — near
the bridge and the modern dwelling-house called The
' This bridge was destroyed by Cromwell in 1642. Its successor was protected
by open railings, and was so narrow as to admit of the passage of only one vehicle
at a time: see it represented in a cut in W'lhon' ^ ^Vi;f'iorddi7ia Cantabrigiig, p. 135.
^ Cooper, Annals, i. p. 143. ^ Ibid. ii. p. 44.
54 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
Hermitage. It is covered with willows and contains a
small building which may possibly be the Hermitage
or the chapel.
Skirting the western branch of the river we find our
way over the swampy green to Newenham niylL The
mill was parcel of the great Mortimer estate, which
passed to Gonville Hall by gift of Lady Ann Scroope,
as has been already mentioned (p. 47). On the western
slope, beyond the mill, roads and scattered houses begin
to reappear. In the plan we see the beginnings of the
Barton Road ; also the field tracks now represented by
Malting Lane, Newnham Walk, Sidgwick Avenue and,
crossing these, a field-road, anciently known as Long
Balke or Mill Path Way, which exists in Ridley Hall
Road, but in the rest of its course was obliterated when
the open fields were enclosed in 1S02. But we miss
Queens' Road, the road on the " Backs" behind Queens'
and King's: in the low-lying ground which it traverses
there was no road in Hamond's day. On the higher
ground, west of Long Balke, we see arable land laid out
in selion strips, and north of the road now called West
Road, anciently Frosshelake ("Frog-pond") Way, the
arable descends the slope and occupies the space now
filled by the Fellows' Garden of King's College \ Other-
wise the whole of the land on either side of what is now
Queens' Road lies in pasture. Horses graze in the
higher ground, cattle in the swampy parts near the
Queens' ditch : and there are no houses. The arable
was part of Carme Field, one of the open fields of the
Town, which took its name from the Carmelite house
^ The Prospect of Cambridge /rem the West prefixed to Loggan's Cantabrigia
Jllustrata gives an excellent view of the arable fields on either side of Grange Road
(see p. 137). Long Balke is shown in Custance's map of 179S.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND. 1592 55
which stood at Nevvnham until 1290 when the friars
transferred themselves to a new site between Queens'
and King's.
Queens' Grove (fig. 24 on p. 60) or "pond-yard," as
it used to be called, is shown thickly planted with trees
and practically insulated by the river, the Queens'
College ditch and a watercourse which bounded it on
the southern side, towards the Small Bridges. It is con-
nected with the College by two bridges, one in the
position of the present bridge, the other leading to the
Fellows' Garden. There is a third bridge over the water-
course on the southern side of the Grove. The plan
shows a building inside the Grove and facing this third
bridge. It was the brewhouse and stables. The middle
part of the Grove, which was the Fellows' Fruit Garden,
is enclosed with a wooden fence. Outside it is another
fence, nearer the watercourses and roughly parallel with
the ditch.
Continuing along the western side of the river we
next arrive at two enclosed paddocks belonging to
King's College (Sheets 8 and 9). They are parted by
a walk which leads from a bridge to the town pasture.
The bridge is the old bridge of King's, occupying the
position laid down for it by Henry VI in his plan of the
College, further north than the present bridge. The
structure seen in Hamond's plan was removed soon
after i 595, and its place was successively taken by two
other bridges before the present one was begun in 1818.
■ A note contained in the old Field Book of the western
fields of Cambridge tells that the two paddocks had
been part of the Town pasture, called Long Meadow,
before they were acquired by Henry V\\ The smaller,
' " Longe medow or longe grene is withowt the Kynge college and all is y*
56 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
southern close is represented in the plan as planted
with trees and bounded on two sides by a trench
drawn from the river. In the seventeenth century it
was known as " the pondyard," as it contained a large
pond, in which was an island. On the island a building
is shown in the plan, which was a pigeon-house, built
originall) in l449^ It is a large structure showing on
its eastern side two doors and a window, and does not
bear much resemblance to a modern pigeon-house. But
pigeon-houses were important features of medieval
colleges, and the Architectural History' shows that
they w^ere often large and had glazed windows. The
northern close, called by Hamond Kynges college backe
sides, was used in the sixteenth century as pasture for
the College horses. The northern part of it, known
as Butt Close, was acquired by Clare College after a
memorable controversy with King's, in 1638, when the
society of the former college was reconstructing its
buildincfs on a new site^
We are reminded of the great alterations which
have taken place in the appearance of " the Backs "
since 1592 when we find in the plan that the town
pasture, called Long Meadow, extends to the river bank,
opposite Trinity College. In 1592 this was the only
place between the Small Bridges and the Great Bridge
where the common land of the townsmen reached to
the river. Trinity College obtained this land by ex-
change with the Town in 16 13*. Previously the only
orchard wherein thir dovehouse standethe and all thir other grete close being boethe
witliowt thir brydge tow.^rds y<= feeldes and was part of longe medow or longe grene
before the college had yt purchased from y= towne of Cambridge by y<= Kynge thir
founder." The Field Book further tells us that tlie King's College close was once
called "Thousand willows."
' Arch. Hist. i. p. m. '•' Ibid. i. p. 511 and iii. pp. 593—3.
3 Ibid. i. pp. 8S — 9:. ■* Ibid. ii. p. 407.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND. 1592 57
passage from the College to the western bank was by
Garret Hostel Bridge, which belonged to the Town and
is first heard of in 1520'. This bridge, which Hamond
has depicted with much care, had been built in 1591, a
year before his plan was made.
Just above the bridge the plan shows a channel
branching from the river at the north-west angle of
Trinity Hall Garden and rejoining it at a point near
the northern end of the site of Trinity Library. This
was known as the King's Ditch, and the island between
it and the main channel of the river was Garret Hostel
Green. Before 1550 the ditch was a navigable branch
of the river, and two hithes were on its eastern bank.
In 1605 — 6 it had become inconsiderable and was then
vaulted and covered over-. The greater part of Garret
Hostel Green was acquired from the Town by the College
at the same time as it obtained the paddock on the
western side of the river. Where Garret Hostel Lane
crossed the ditch Hamond marks a bridge. Lyne in his
plan shows another bridge further north, connecting
the island with the eastern bank : Hamond ignores it,
though the Trinity Bursar's accounts in 1598 — 9 show
that it existed then and was known as " the bridge by
the backhouse^"
The rectangular trenches which at present bound
the Trinity paddocks on the south and west sides had
no existence in 1592 ; but the portion of the Town field
which was next the river was divided from the rest of
Long Green by a winding brook. This brook was a
continuation of the watercourse which bounded King's
Meadow and Butt Close on their western side, and in
^ Cooper, Annals, i. p. 304.
"^ Arch. Hist. ii. p. 639. On the subject of this Ditch see the Introduction,
p. XV. ' Ibid. ii. p. 636.
58 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
Hamond's plan it is in turn continued in the water-
course parting the Wilderness from the Meadow of S. ]
John's College^ (Sheet 2). I
The Wilderness is not shown in Hamond's plan. In j
his time it formed part of the common Field of the Town, |
known as Carmefield ; it was acquired by S. John's \
about 1 6 10. The Meadow, called by Hamond S.J lions \
Walkes, is represented as bounded by straight water- \
courses on its south and west sides and on the north by |
the Bin Brook. It is connected with the eastern bank I
of the river by a wooden bridge of three openings, i
probably the same bridge which is shown in Loggan's j
view. An avenue of trees is shown by Hamond, be- j
ginning near this bridge and leading to another bridge i
which crosses the watercourse at the western end of the j
Meadow. Parallel with this avenue is a double row of \
trees linino- the banks of a ditch, which bes^ins at the
Bin Brook above the present weir and discharges in the |
river, opposite the Library of S. John's College. This |
was called the S. John's ditch and was covered in when j
the New Court was built in 1825 — 31, and at the same j
time the trees were cut down. In Hamond's plan the !
area between the ditch and the Bin Brook is divided j
by a double row of trees into western and eastern por- j
tions : the former contains six ponds, from which circum- |
stance it was called "the pondyards"": the latter was j
leased by the college to townsmen and by a bridge i
across the Bin Brook was entered from Fisher's Lane, I
which in 1 592, as now, was the only place on the western j
bank occupied by dwelling-houses. The banks of the \
' On the subject of the watercourses at the Backs of the Colleges see Arthur
Gray, The IVa.'ercourse called Cavibrid^e in C.A.S. Comm. and F roc. ix. pp. 61 — 77
and The Dual Origiti 0/ the Tou<n of Cambridge (C.A.S. Quarto Publications,
1908). 2 Arch. Hist. ii. p. 735.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 59
Bin Brook are lined with trees, and on its northern side,
near the river, are some scattered buildings. Behind
them is pasture reaching to the "School of Pythagoras."
The so-called School of Pythagoras is carefully re-
produced in the plan and shows an upper and lower
window in the eastern gable and three in the upper part
of the southern wall. With the adjoining house, now
called Merton Hall, it stands in a close which is skirted
by the lane now known as Northampton Street, formerly
Merton Hall Lane or Bell Lane. By a carelessness
rare in Hamond the name Pithagoras Howse has got
transferred in his plan to a dose and buildings on the
opposite side of Northampton Street, where is nowWest-
minster College and where formerly was the Grange
of S. John's\ In the plan (Sheet 3) the Grange is repre-
sented as consistinof of two domestic buildino-s and a
very large barn, near which a pigeon-house is seen with
a pigeon flying towards it. At the western end of the
Grange, and separated from it by a passage, is a house
with two enclosures, one of them an orchard. This part
is called in the Field Books Muscroft or Mewscroft, no
doubt from a pigeon-house or " mews " contained in it.
Beyond it is the road now called Lady Margaret's Road,
and northwards, along the Madingley Road, stretches
the open Field, called Grithowe Field^
* Hamond is probably the earliest authority for the application of the name of
Pythagoras to a house in Cambridge. In Lydgate's Verses on the Foundation of
the University of Cambridge (Mullinger, The University of Cambridge, i. Ap-
pendix A) Anaximander and Anaxngoras are said to have taught in its schools.
There is no ground for supposing that tradition connected Pythagoras with the
Grange. Grange Road takes its name from St John's Grange.
^ Grit-howe, i.e. Gravil Hill, wiiich is near the Observatory. Lady Margaret
Road, though it has only been laid out in recent years, is in fact part of a very
ancient road, called Barton Way from the circumstance that it was the direct road
from Barton to the Castle. It started at a spring, allied Chalkwell, near the Castle,
crossed the fields, where its hedgerows are still traceable on the University Rille
Range, and joined the Barton Road at the Town boundary.
6o
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
Having completed our tour of the Backs of the
Colleges we may now return to the Small Bridges, near
Queens', andresume our survey from thatpoint(Sheet8).
Fig. ■24. Queens' College, reduced from Hamond's map of Cambridge, 1593.
QHC7ies college {^g. 2 4)has changed so little in appearance
since the time of Hamond that we have in it an excellent
illustration of the fidelity of his methods contrasted with
the conventional rendering of Lyne. The lower end of
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 61
Silver Street, anciently called Smallbridges Street, is
shown by Hamond notasthestraightthoroughfareof uni-
form width which appears in Lyne s plan : it is the same
picturesquely curving street, narrowing as it approaches
the bridge, which is to be seen to-day, and the southern
range of Queens' College adapts itself to the bend by
an angle in its outline, formed at Erasmus' tower, where
the principal and cloister courts join. The tower itself,
the windows on the garret floor, the tall chimneystacks,
are all distinctly shown; and so, in the front to Queens'
Lane, are the Gate Tower, the'eastern end of the Chapel,
and the turret between the Chapel and the Gate. In
the principal court we see the oriel of the Hall, the
louvre and vane on the Hall roof, three windows of the
Chapel, a low window in the ante-chapel, the door of
the passage next it, and the rails which surround the
grassplot in the middle of the quadrangle^ In the court
beyond the Hall we recognise the cloister on three sides :
but we miss the oriels in the President's Gallery and at
the north-west angle of the court. In the middle of the
court is a single tree, possibly the same which is shown
in Loggan's view of 1688. The south cloister walk is
accurately shown as not attached to a range of buildings.
Beyond it, towards Silver Street, where the Essex
building now stands, there is an irregularly planned
annexe to the court, which is open to the river at its
south-west corner. Walnut Tree Court, on the northern
side of the Chapel, does not figure in the plan : the eastern
range there was not erected until 1 6 1 6 — 18. The greater
part of this court, and of the President's Garden, next
the river, as well as all the ground that lies to the north
f, * The rails had disappearLcl before 16SS, when Loggan made his drawing.
t ArcA. Hist. ii. p. 53.
It
I
62 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
of them as far as Cholles Lane, which parted it from'
King's College, was the site of the house and grounds'
of the Carmelite Friars, which were bought by the!
College in 1544. In Hamond's plan the whole of this
ground on the northern side of the College is divided
into four square plots approximately equal in size, and
all of them, except the site of Walnut Tree Court, laid
out as gardens. This arrangement was unchanged until
the extension of Walnut Tree Court in 1885.
Before we return to the High Street we will proceed
a little further along Queens' Lane to the place on its
eastern side where H amend marks S. Catkermes Hall
(fig. 24 on p. 60). It should be borne in mind that the
acquisition by this College of the site which enabled it
to extend eastward to Trumpington Street and southward
to Silver Street was very gradual, and that in the six- \
teenth century the College was limited to two very small I
quadrangles, which were entered from Queens' Lane, i
The buildings comprised in these quadrangles have long
since disappeared, and Hamond's plan gives us the only
view of them which is more than conventional. The
tiny entrance court has no building on its western side,
but is parted from Queens' Lane by a wall, in which
there is a low door. On its other sides it is enclosed by
buildings : those on the north and south sides are pro-
longed eastward beyond the court, and in the northern
prolongation is contained the Chapel, which is marked \
by a large window in the eastern gable. The position 1
of the Hall, in the northern half of the building which j
fronts the entrance from Queens' Lane, is clearly in- '
I
^ The reproduction of Hamond's plan in the Architectural History (Fig. 24, j
above) is vague and inaccurate in details. It shows a building in the entrance j
court, facing Queens' Lane, and omits the conspicuous marks which serve to j
identify the positions of the Hall and Chapel. j
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 63
dicated by a singrle large window and by the door of
the screens passage, seen in the plan on its eastern side.
South of the entrance court, and larger than it, is shown
the interior court, contained by ranges on three sides,
and on the south side separated by a wall from a garden
which lies opposite to Queens' and belonged to that
College. This garden contains a tennis court. The
buildings arranged round a quadrangle and lyino-
between this garden and the corner of Queens' Lane
and Silver Street were almshouses belonging to Queens'
College and were leased from the College by the Uni-
versity in 1654 as a Printing House'. The large
buildings on the opposite side of Silver Street and
facing the south-east angle of Queens' College were
those of the Black Lion Inn.
The western side of Trumpington Street, between
Silver Street and the lane called by Hamond Plott &
N2its Lane, is occupied by a continuous row of houses,
some with yards attached to them. Here were several
inns, The Three Horseshoes, The White Swan, The
George (which once belonged to Hobson, the carrier)
and The Black Bull, which still occupies its old site.
Adjoining The Black Bull, northwards, was The White
Horse, which had a narrow front to the street and
a more extended one to Plott and Nuts Lane. This
inn, removed in 1S23, was famous in the reign of
Henry VH I as the meeting-place of the early Reformers,
or "Heretics," as they were styled, and it was chosen
for the purpose as it could be entered privately from
the Backs by a door in the lane'. On the south side of
Plott and Nuts Lane, where it joins Queens' Lane,
^ Arch. Hist. iii. pp. 133, 134.
' C.A.S. Comrn. and Free. iii. pp. 407—409, On the site of the White Horse,
or ^Germany'' (G. F. Browne).
64
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
Fig. 25. Part of Hamond's Map, i J92.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 65
stood another inn, The Boreshede. Nearly opposite
this inn is S. Austin's Hostel, which survived as " the
Pentionary" of King's College at least as late as i644\
It is identified by the door in its northern wall, giving
access to the College. Beyond it, in Queens' Lane, is
seen a tennis court which belonged to King's College
and was pulled down, as it seems, in 1594'. North of
the Carmelite site another lane, called Whitefreer Lane,
otherwise Cholles Lane or Water Lane, which was not
continuous with Plott and Nuts Lane, led to the water-
side, and on the river bank in medieval times was a
hithe, called Cholleshithe. This lane remained as a
public thoroughfare so late as 1823. The strip of orchard
ground on its southern side was purchased from the
Carmelites by King's College in 1535.
Beyond Whitefreer Lane and the houses which
stand on the north side of Plott and Nuts Lane Hamond
(fig. 25) shows a huge area, without any marks of
cultivation and unoccupied by any considerable buildings,
except on the High Street boundary. It is the site pur-
chased by the Founder for King's College and designed
for its Great Court. Loggan calls it Chappel Yard.
Lyne and Hamond have no name for it. The only
King's College known to them was the court, on the
northern side of the Chapel, which, after Gibbs' building
was erected in 1724, was called the Old Court, and is
now incorporated in the University Library.
On the north side of Chapel Yard Hamond has
' Arch. Hist. i. pp. 344, 511 note and p. 554. In 1449 "^^is hostel was described
as consisting ol " certain newly built tenements lying together." Dr Caius mentions
in his History that within his momor)- it was occupied l.'V students. In 1579 King's
College had ''chambers in the tenise court": Hamond shows a building at the
south-east corner of the tennis court, but not in it.
* Ibid. i. pp. 554, 555.
"• 5
66 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND. 1592
drawn Kyngcs college chapel I with remarkable fidelity to
scale' and general appearance : it has suffered no material j
chancre since his time'. Besides the Chapel we may
note the following features : ( i ) the belfry, a detached
wooden structure, supported by struts, standing a few
yards distant from the west end of the Chapel ; it was
removed in 1739: (2) the wall surrounding the College
grounds, eastward of the river, on all sides, not excepting
the river bank; this was a feature of the Founder's de-
sio-n: (3) the bridge, a structure with wooden piers and
handrails, built in the position intended by the Founder ;
in the river, just above it, are two small islands covered
with trees: (4) three enclosed spaces, next the river, of;
which the middle one is lettered in Loggan's plan
Bowling Green: (5) a few unimportant buildings on the :
river bank and on the southern boundary: (6) an arched ;
gate of entrance at the end of Queens' Lane, which was |
called Friars' Gate, and a building adjoining it, which was ;
the stable^: (7) four bastions in the eastern wall, some- '
what resembling the towers with which the Founder
intended the wall to be crested and embattled : (S) an
entrance to the Chapel Yard, between the two middle
bastions; there is no gate, nor any walk approaching it
either from the High Street or the Chapel Yard: it
gave access to the latter from the Provost's Lodge and
the Conducts' Court. \
1 As nearly as the small scale of Hamond's design admits of measurement, he
represents the length of the church as 300 feet and the breadth as 60 feet, the angle ;
turrets in both cases being included; the actual measurements are 315 and 67.
^ Remark under the easternmost window on the south side the roof line and
abutments of the domestic building which in the Founder's plan was to have stoou
in that position.
* I'he gate, which was destroyed when the Wilkins building was put up i"
1814, is seen in a view of Queens' l.ane in Dyer's Uiii-jcrsity and Collc^is of C<; ■•/.■•
briJge, ii. p. 167. The same view (1814) shows an ancient house on the site of the
tennis court. ■
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 67
Between the eastern wall of the Chapel Yard and
the High Street, which was much narrower in 1592
than at present, there is a triangular space occupied by-
houses. At the base of it, which is the northern side,
there is a narrow lane, anciently known as Glomery
Lane, afterwards as School Street, which, from a point
nearly opposite S. Mary's Passage, leads to the south-
eastern corner of the Schools. Between this lane and
the opening in the eastern wall of the Chapel Yard was
the Provost's Lodge, which had a small garden at the
north-east end of the Chapel. Some houses stood
between the Lodge and the High Street, which were the
property of the College and were sold to the University
in i76g\
In Hamond's view of the Old Court we may dis-
tinguish : (i) the Gate Tower, carried up no higher than
the roof of the adjoining range : (2) the Hall, in the
north-east corner, projecting eastward beyond the court,
: so as to overlap the north range of the Schools quad-
I rangle, a narrow passage intervening ; at the western
i end there is a low porch, and on the roof there is a
I louvre and weathercock ; the unsubstantial character of
! the building is shown by its roof, which is not of lead,
j as are the other roofs of the court : (3) a passage almost
I hidden in the plan by one of the angle-turrets of the
[. Chapel ; it was called Cow Lane and was the exit from
I the court in the direction of the Chapel: (4) a turret at
|. the south-west angle of the court'.
[ Behind the Old Court is the Comoii Schole (see
I fig. 25 on p. 64) showing the large Entrance Gate,
^ ^ For a history and description of the old Provost's Lodge, which was pulled
R down in 1828, see Arch. Hist. i. pp. 540 — 548.
|r; * A ground plan of the Old Court is given in Arch. Hist. i. p. 322 and interior
t and exterior views, ibid. tigs. 5, 6, 7.
I
68 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
which was erected by Archbishop Rotheram, about the
year 1470, and was removed to Madingley Hall in 1758.
The Gate, which, as usual, was not in the centre of the
range in which it stood, fronts University Sirete. This
street, later known as Regent's Walk, leads to the High
Street, which it joins opposite S. Mary's church, and
was made in 1574 at the expense of Matthew Parker,
archbishop of Canterbury. Hamond distinctly shows
the embattled walls which Parker built on each side of
the street at the end near the Schools Gate\ The
houses on both sides of the street at its High Street
end remained in the occupation of private persons until
they were removed about the years 1720 — 4, at which
time the Senate House quadrangle was laid out". The
eastern end . of the street was about twenty-five feet
nearer to the tower of S. Mary's church than the iron
railings which now bound this quadrangle.
In the north-west corner of the Schools quadrangle,
in Hamond's plan, we recognise the staircase turret
shown in Loggan's view. The staircase led to a door,
still existinor in what is now the Catalos^ue Room of
the Library and was formerly the New Chapel and,
later, the Regent House, of the University^ Hamond
shows a door in the northern range of the quadrangle
by which the Divinity School was entered. He gives
no indication of the Schools Tower, as it was called,
which, in Loggan's view, stands in the eastern range
between Rotheram's Gate and the southern range\
North of the Divinity School is a vacant plot, belong-
^ Arch. Hist. iii. p. 39.
^ Ibid. iii. pp. 43, 48. See fig;. 25 on p. 64 supra.
^ Stokes, The Chaplains and Chapel of the University cf Cambridge, C.A.S.
8vo Publications, xli. p. 58.
•♦ Arch. Hist. iii. fig. 4, opposite pp. 10, 11, and the ground plan of the original
arrangement of the Schools Quadrangle, ibid. fig. 5, p. 16.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 69
ing to King's College and entered from the Old
Court. Here once stood the School of S. Margaret,
a theological school which in 1396 belonged to Michael-
house\
The old arrangement of the Schools and the streets
adjoining them will be best understood by reference to
fig. 26 (p. 70). The name, School Street, was applied
both to the passage, already mentioned, leading from the
southern end of the front of the Schools to the Hioh
Street, and to a lane which ran at riofht angles to it
along the front of the Schools. Sometimes the two
were spoken of as School Lanes: sometimes they were
distinguished as East School Street and North School
Street ; and the former was also known as S. Mary's
Lane. Many Schools had once occupied sites in these
two lanes, though all, except the Common School, had
disappeared in Hamond's time. In East School Street
the houses on either side at the High Street end be-
longed to King's College, and were sold to the University
between 1757 and 1769. On the southern side, at the
corner of East and North School Streets, where
Hamond's plan shows the Lodge of the Provost of
King's, there stood in 1440 a School called "Arte scole","
and on the opposite side of East School Street were
two undesignated Schools. At the southern end of
North School Street, where the garden of the Provost
of King's College is shown in Hamond's plan, there
formerly stood the Glomery Hall, or Grammar School,
perhaps the most ancient of all the Schools. The eastern
gable of King's Chapel occupies a part of its site. On
the east side of North School Street, opposite the north
end of the Schools, is a house with a large garden
^ Arch. Hist. ii. p. 416 note. 2 /^^_ jji^ p_ ,_
70
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
TRINITY
LANE
C L A K E
Fig. 16. Plan of the Schools, etc., about 1575.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 71
attached to it. In the sixteenth century it belonged to
Dr William Butts, physician to Henry VIII, and in
1525 he leased the garden with a stable to Nicholas
Speryng, who was one of the official University printers
and stationers.
Until 1730 the eastern part of the present Senate
House Passage, from the Gate of Honour to Senate
House Hill, did not exist. The ground between
University Street and the boundary of Caius College
was acquired by the University in 1673. At that time it
was occupied by dwelling-houses, of which the principal
was the New Inn, or New Angel Inn, which stood on
the site of the Senate House: further to the south was
another Inn, called the Green Dragon\ The New Inn
is apparendy the building which in Hamond's plan is
distinguished by its long yard. Behind it was garden
ground, which extended as far as North School Street
and was purchased from Corpus by the University at
the time when it also acquired the New Inn. This had
formerly been the garden of a hostel, called S. Mary's
Hostel, and when Dr Caius bought the site of Caius
Court he covenanted that he would not open any
windows in the gable of his new building, abutting on
the garden".
The Gate of Honour derived its name from the
circumstance that it stood at the end of North School
Street, leading directly to the Schools. Between North
School Street and Alill strete (now Trinity Hall Lane)
Hamond (fig. 25, p. 64) marks a lane which he, as also
Lyne, calls Hcnney, parting the Old Court of King's
College from the garden of the IMaster of Caius College.
1 History of a Site in Senate Hcntze Yard, by J. W. Clark and J. E. Foster,
C.A.S. Comm. and Proc. xiii. p. 120. Arch. Hist. iii. p. 40.
" Arch. Hist. i. p. 163.
72 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND. 1592
This lane occupies the position of the western portion
of Senate House Passage. Until University Street was
made, the ordinary way of getting from S. Mary's church
to Mill Street was by the two School Streets and Henney.
On the western side of Mill Street there was once
another lane, also called Henney, which led to the river
bank. The two portions of Henney were not continuous,
the western one passing through the ground now occu-
pied by the Tutor's house and kitchen of Trinity Hall,
so that the Mill Street ends of the two Hennevs were
105 feet apart\ The western Henney was acquired by
Trinity Hall in 1545, when the College enclosed it and
made a new lane to the river side, the still existing
Garret Hostel Lane. Garret Hostel Lane is marked
but not named by Hamond.
The portion of Mill Street which is now called
Trinity Hall Lane is a prolongation of the Mill Street
which is now Queens' Lane : the intervening part was
enclosed when King's College was founded. Where
the principal court of Trinity Hall projects beyond the
street front of the Entrance Court the street makes a
short bend eastwards, and in the angle formed by the
juncture of the two courts Hamond marks a triangular
space, enclosed by a fence, exactly as at the present
day-. Mill Street ended at the Gate of Michaelhouse,
where it met Find silver la7ie (now Trinity Lane),
Hamond's delineation of Cla}'e Hall (fig, 25, p, 64)
is particularly interesting, for not only have the buildings
' Prior to 1498 the western Henney was continued on the eastern side of Mill
Street, through Gonvile Hall, as far as Trinity Street, which it reached opposite to
S. Michael's church. Sometimes it was called School Lane, sometimes "the lane
under the garden of Gonvile Hall." Arch. Hht. i. p. 319. The lane which
Han^ond and Lyne call Henney was not a part of this lane.
- This space was the "little garden" made by Dr Jowett, Tutor of Trinity Hall,
al)out 1793: see the epigram thereon. Arch. Hist. i. p. 228, note 1.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 73
; which he shows completely disappeared, but the very
; site of the quadrangle was changed when the College
I was reconstructed, between 163S and 1715. The
1 eastern range, which in Hamond's time was flush with
; the street and continuous, indeed contiguous, with the
I front of the Entrance Court of Trinity Hall, was set
i back 70 feet to the west between 163S and 1641, and
I on the western side of the College the garden ground
[ next the river was reduced in its length to about the
• same extent. The north and south porches of King's
f College Chapel stand exactly on the line of the part of
i Mill Street w^hich was enclosed by Henry VI in the
I grounds of his College, and the street in front of Clare
f Hall was closed at its southern end by a wall which
\ was a prolongation of the external side of the southern
I range of Clare Hall. Consequently this range was most
j inconveniently near the western part of King's College
1- Chapel. Between the north porch and the wall which
I blocked the street there was a passage, fourteen feet
[5 wide, which gave access to a piece of ground extending,
fc between the Chapel on one side and the Old Court and
H the Law School on the other, as far as the wall of the
y Provost's garden. Through a gate, between the garden
I wall and the corner of the Law School, the East School
a
t Street was reached. This was the most direct route
I
I from the Old Court to the High Street in 1592. In
f 1637 the two Colleges consented to remove the incon-
i. venience of the proximity of their buildings. Clare
I agreed to lease to King's the ground in front of the
» southern part of its new eastern range, and received in
I exchanofe from Kinc^'s the Butt Close on the western
I side of the river, as has been mentioned on p. 56. The
I ranges on the western and northern sides of the quad-
74 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
rangle of Clare were rebuilt, or remodelled, between
the years 1523 — 35, after a fire, in 1521, which destroyed
the Master's Lodge and the Treasury. The other
buildings shown in Hamond's plan are possibly those
of the original College: they are distinguished from the
newer ranges by their tall chimneys. We proceed to
notice some of the principal features in the plan'.
The eastern entrance from the street is by a simple
arch, with a side door. As in other colleges of fourteenth
century foundation there is no gate-tower. A hedge
separates the plot in the middle of the quadrangle from
the walks. In the north-east corner is the Chapel, dis-
tinguished by windows larger than the others in the
same range. It shows no eastern gable next the street,
from which it was parted by intervening chambers in
the eastern ranee. Above the door are small windows
and a chimney on the roof, showing that there were
chambers above the ante-Chapel'. A very narrow
passage, as at the present time, separates the northern
range from Trinity Hall. It has no apparent entrance
from the street, and did not lead to the Kitchen, as it
now does, for in 1 592 the Kitchen was in the south-western
corner of the quadrangle. Facing the gate, a broad,
stepped gable containing windows of unusual width
marks the Master's Lodge, which is between the Hall
and the north-west angle of the quadrangle. At the
back of the Lodge there is a small garden belonging to
the Master: a portion of the Lodge projects into it. On
the side next the court the Hall shows an oriel and
• The reduced reproduction of Ilamond's plan of Clare College and Trinity
Hall, given in Arch. Hist. i. p. 8;, is unfortunately very inaccurate. In Arch.
Hist. vol. iv. there is a reduced copy of an ancient plan of the old buildings of
Clare College (fig. 2).
2 Cole's sketch of the old Chapel, dated 1742, reproduced in Arch. Hist. i.
p. 83, shows that there were chambers above the Chapel throughout its length.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 75
three tall windows. A door at its southern end marks
the position o( the screens. Beyond them is a passage,
between walls, conducting to a green which extends to
the river and contains two outhouses. A very large
tree grows near the river bank. The Kitchen is evi-
dently in the south-west corner of the court, and a small
yard on its western side is apparently the Kitchen yard.
The rest of the ground between the College and the
river is occupied by the Fellows' garden, or, as
Loggan calls it, the Bowling Green, a walled rectangle
planted with trees. An embattled wall is carried along
the river bank and is continued behind Trinity Hall as
far as Garret Hostel Bridge, and a similar wall parts
the grounds of King's and Clare'. There is no bridge,
for Clare did not acquire the grounds beyond the river
until 1637^
Trinity Hall, as shown in Hamond's plan, presents
an appearance very different from the conventional
representation of it given by Lyne. Instead of the two
courts, equal in size, which are shown by Lyne, in
Hamond's plan we see four courts, very different in size
and appearance. The only entrance from Mill Street
is by an archway set near the southern end of the front
of the quadrangle next Clare College, now the New
Court : on its northern side is a smaller postern door'.
^ The wall next the river was put up in the mastership of William Wj-mbill,
circa 1421, Arch. Hist. i. p. 78.
* There is a gocxl drawing of the old buildings and grounds of Clare, made by
a member of the College, Kdmund Prideaux, in 17 14. It is figured in Cambridge
Described and ILintratcd (Atkinson and Clark), p. 304, and in the History of Clare
College (Wardale). The date shows that it was executed from memor>- or an older
drawing. The only points in which it differs from Hamond's plan are that it places
the gate rather nearer to the northern end of the front of the College and shows
three storeys in the eastern range— the highest a garret floor— and only two windows,
besides the oriel, in the eastern wall of the Hall.
3 After the erection of the new buildings in 1873 the arched gate was removed
76 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
On its southern side this entrance quadrangle is bounded
by a wall separating it from the back lane of Clare
College. The southern part of the western side is also
closed by a wall, in which there is a door opening on
the small Master's Court : the Master's Court is now
mainly occupied by an extension of the Lodge. The
rest of the western side is occupied by a wing of the
Lodge. Next this wing, in the northern range, we see
the Chapel, distinguished by three windows and a
cupola on the roof at its western end: this last had dis-
appeared when Loggan's view was taken.
At the eastern end of the Chapel is a passage leading
to the principal court, in the middle of which something
resembling a tree in a box is figured \ Here we dis-
tinguish the Hall at the southern end of the western
range. Hamond shows four windows, that at the
dais end being larger than the others. Loggan's view
shows only three, of equal size. On the roof is seen a
louvre or bell-turret. At the northern end of the Hall
is the door of the screens. Beyond the Hall is the
Garden or Library Court, flanked on the south by
the gallery of the Lodge, on the north by the Library
range.
The small Master's Court is almost completely sur-
rounded by wings of the Lodge. That on the southern
side, next Clare, is said to have been the Hostel of the
Monks of Ely, which was the first acquisition of the
Founder for the housing of his scholars'. Between the
to the back entrance of the College in Garret Hostel Lane, and the postern door
was set up in the kitchen yard.
1 Loge;an's view shows a lir-tree in this court. It was planted in the seven-
teenth century {Anh. Hist. i. p. 216, note 3).
- For a description of the Monks' Buildinf^ as it appeared in the eighteenth
century sec IVarreiis Book, p. 67, edited by Sir A. W. \V. Dale, Fellow of Trinity
Hall, 191 1. Warren says that in his time it had no chimneys; Hamond shows a
76 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
On its southern side this entrance quadrangle is bounded
by a wall separating it from the back lane of Clare
College. The southern part of the western side is also
closed by a wall, in which there is a door opening on
the small Master's Court : the Master's Court is now
mainly occupied by an extension of the Lodge. The
rest of the western side is occupied by a wing of the
Lodge. Next this wing, in the northern range, we see
the Chapel, distinguished by three windows and a
cupola on the roof at its western end : this last had dis-
appeared when Loggan's view was taken.
At the eastern end of the Chapel is a passage leading
to the principal court, in the middle of which something
resembling a tree in a box is figuredS Here we dis-
tinguish the Hall at the southern end of the western
range. Hamond shows four windows, that at the
dais end beins^ larger than the others. Lofrcran's view
shows only three, of equal size. On the roof is seen a
louvre or bell-turret. At the northern end of the Hall
is the door of the screens. Beyond the Hall is the
Garden or Library Court, flanked on the south by
the gallery of the Lodge, on the north by the Library
range.
The small Master's Court is almost completely sur-
rounded by wings of the Lodge. That on the southern
side, next Clare, is said to have been the Hostel of the
Monks of Ely, which was the first acquisition of the
Founder for the housing- of his scholars*. Between the
o
to the back entrance of the College in Garret Hostel Lane, and the postern door
was set up in the kitchen yard.
' Log£jan's view shows a fir-tree in this court. It was planted in the seven-
teenth century (Anh. Hist. i. p. iiG, note 3).
- For a description of the Monks' Buikiinf; as it appeared in the eighteenth
century see IVarretis Book, p. 67, edited by Sir A. W. W. Dale, Fellow of Trinity
Hall, 191 1. Warren says that in his time it had no chimneys; Ilamond shows a
h
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND. 1592 77
Master's Court and the river is the Fellows' Garden,
and, separated from it by a wall, is a plot of nearly equal
dimensions, which in a plan of 1731 is called the Back-
side. This latter is parted by a wall on its northern side
from the King's Ditch, described in the Introduction
(p. xv), which branches from the river at a point just
above Garret Hostel Bridge. Lyne places its beginning
much nearer to Clare College and shows a foot-bridge
connecting the Town land behind Trinity Hall with the
island called Garret Hostel Green. Between the College
and Garret Hostel Lane are shown two wardens of which
the smaller and western one belonged to the Master :
the other was the Fellows' Fruit Garden.
Hamond desio^nates the two courts of Gonvile and
Caius College, as Dr Caius did, respectively Cams
% college and Gonmil hall (fig. 25 on p. 64). The entrances
t to the combined colleges are three : ( i ) the original gate
% of Gonvile Hall in Find silver lane (now Trinity Lane),
\ (2) the Gate of Honour in Caius Court, facing North
t School Street, and (3) the Gate of Humility, set in a
I wall opposite the southern part of S. Michael's church.
I From the last a passage, walled on either side, conducts
I to the Gate of Virtue (or Wisdom) which is the principal
I entrance to Caius Court.
I At the date of Hamond's plan the eastern portion
I of the present Senate House Passage did not exist
\ (p. 71). Between the New Angel Inn, w^hich occupied
\ the site of the Senate House, and the passage approach-
I ing the Gate of Virtue from the High Street Hamond
X shows several dwelling houses fronting the street. The
; largest, which encloses a small courtyard, may be the
! single chimney. In Loggan's view it has a dovecote on the roof in place of the
I chimney.
78 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
house called in deeds le Lambe, on the site of which
once stood a Stone House belonging to the Prior of I
Anglesey. North of this house and occupying the space 1
between the Gate of Humility and the Gate of Virtue!
was a tenement called the King's Arms or Arma Regia. j
This, says Dr Caius, was once the residence of John 1
Sibert, or Siberch, the University Printer (1521 — 2)\ i
The site of the former house was acquired by the
College in 1 782, of the latter in 1 564. They had on their
western side a garden which was parted from them by
a wall, built by Dr Caius in 1565, and belonged to the
President of the College. The rest of the area com- •
prised between Henney (i.e. the lane so called by '
Hamond), Mill Street, Find silver Lane and the High
Street was the property of the College in 1592. But
the houses fronting the High Street, between the Gate '
of Humility and Find silver Lane, remained in private j
occupation until the erection of the Legge and Perse
buildings on their site in 16 17 and 1619. Between
these houses and Gonvile Hall was a garden which,
until 1 868, was the Fellows' garden. Until that date
it was enclosed within the walls shown in Hamond's
plan.
The tower of the Gate of Virtue, with its neigh-
bouring turret, is represented by Hamond with a fair
degree of accuracy. In Caius Court we see railings
bordering the walks: they were put up in 1583 and re- ,
moved before Loggan's view was drawn*. Near the
western end of the chapel is shown a curious sundial,
which was the work of Theodore Haveus^ The Chapel
* Caius, Atttia!s, 1569, translated in Arch. Hist. i. p. 161. For Siberch see
R. Bowes, University Printers^ p. 286 and G. J. Gray, Earlier Cambridge Stationers
and Bookbinders, p. 54.
' Arch. Hist. i. p. 184. =» Ibid. i. p. 182.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND. 1592 79
and Its bell-tower, the latter marked by horizontal bands
of masonry, are seen on the northern side of the quad-
rangle. The Chapel shows three windows on the south
side, and a large one in the eastern gable. At its west
end is the arch of the passage leading to Gonvile Court.
The rooms above and beyond the passage were part of
the Lodge and are distinguished by dormer windows,
as Loggan also shows. Hamond, not quite accurately,
represents Caius Court as considerably broader from
east to west than Gonvile Court, and he sets the western
range of the former somewhat farther to the west than
the corresponding range in Gonvile Court: they are in
L reality in the same line. His object is apparently to
;;: display the Master's turret on the western side of the
:.' Lodge. Between the western ranges of the two quad-
P rangles and Mill Street is the large garden of the Lodge.
Si At the north-western corner of Gonvile Court is the
I; Kitchen court. By an unusual arrangement the Kitchen
i was set transverse to the Hall in a building which reached
I Mill Street.
ft In Gonejiilc hall we see a hedge surrounding the
I centre plot. The Library and the Hall, in the western
\ range, have no visible features to distinguish them from
I ordinary chambers. In the northern range is seen the
\ arched gateway, opening on Find silver Lane, which
% served Gonvile Hall as its principal entrance before the
I alterations of Dr Caius: it was closed in 1754. The
I northern range has a large stepped gable next the
f Fellows' garden. In the middle of the quadrangle a pump
\ is conspicuous: it was put up in 1578^
f Nothing is more interesting or more graphically
j presented in Hamond's plan than the view which he
{ ^ Arch. Hist. i. p. 183.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
Fig. 7j. Part of Hamonci's Map of Cambridge, made in 1592,
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 81
I has given us of Trinily College in 1592, and which is
[ here reproduced in fig. 27 \ The College was founded
■ in 1546. In the forty-six years which had since elapsed
\ only a small part of the existing buildings of the Great
I Court had been completed, and it is unnecessary to say
[ that Nevile's Court had not been begun. K great
; clearance had been made of the buildings which occu-
f pied the middle space of the Great Court, but portions
[ of the colleges and hostels which occupied the site before
1 1546 still survived in the lateral ranges and in other
\ parts. It happens that Hamond's plan was made at a
j time when there was a cessation in the building opera-
tions. The works so far finished had mainly been
carried out between 1554 and 1564. The most recent
had been completed about the year 1584. The comple-
\ tion of the Great Court and the reduction of its plan to
I that which we see to-day were due to Thomas Nevile,
I who became Master in 1593.
j The great area comprised in the College, as it existed
! in Hamond's day, may be conveniently divided into
! four sections, divided from one another by streets and
! lanes which were closed when the Great Court was
! begun. These grounds were almost entirely occupied by
j ancient colleges and hostels at the date of the foundation
I of the College. Before that time they were traversed
I by three streets: (i) a lane which was a continuation of
j Find silver Lane and led to a hithe on the King's Ditch,
j called Flaxhithe : (2) Foul Lane which, beginning where
j the Queen's Gate now stands, ran northwards to the
j Gate Tower of King's Hall (King Edward's Tower)
' ^ The reproduction of Hamond's plan which is placed opposite pp. 402, 403
! of the second volume of the Arch. Hist., having been made from the injured copy
I in the Bodleian Lil>rary, is defective in details, especially in the south-west corner
I near the Queen's gate.
i
1 H. 6
82 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
which formerly stood at a middle point between the
Great Gate and the door of the Lodge: {3) King's Hall
Lane, or King's Childer Lane, which, crossing the last-
named, ran in a winding course from a point a few feet
south of the Great Gate to a point on the river bank
where the King's Ditch rejoined the main channel of
the river.
The first, or southern of these four areas, contained
two hostels, viz. Garret (or S. Gerard's) Hostel and
Ovyng's Inn (otherwise S. Hugh's Hostel). It was
bounded by Garret Hostel Lane, Mill Street, Flaxhithe
Lane and the King's Ditch. The Bishop's Hostel and
half the site of the New (or King's) Court are situated
in it.
The second, or western, comprised Michaelhouse
and S. Gregory's (or Newmarket) Hostel, and was
bounded by Flaxhithe Lane, Foul Lane, King's Hall
Lane and the King's Ditch. It contained the site of the
south-western part of the Great Coutu and the greater
part of Nevile's court.
The third, or eastern, contained Physwick Hostel,
S. Katherine's Hostel, S. Margaret's Hostel and Tyled
Hostel, as well as a block of buildingfs belonofine to
King's Hall. It was bounded by Find silver Lane,
private houses fronting the High Street, King's Hall
Lane and Foul Lane. Here is now the south-eastern
part of the Great Court.
The fourth, or northern, contained the remainder
of King's Hall and covered all the ground to the north
of King's Hall Lane.
It should be remembered that Garret Hostel Green,
which was parted from the College ground by the King's
Ditch, was in 1592 the property of the Town.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 83
In the first of these four areas we see in the plan
two buildings, very near and parallel to each other, one
of them at the end of Mill Street and looking eastwards
along Find silver Lane, the other behind it. The former
is apparently in contact with the range of Trinity Great
Court which fronts Find silver Lane, but the latter
seems not to be in line with the range which contains
the Hall and Lodge of Trinity, but to be withdrawn
somewhat west of it. As the buildins^ in Mill Street has
no door on the street side, it would seem that access to
the buildings was obtained from the Great Court. To-
gether these buildings seem to have formed "the new
hostell," which in 1576 was fitted up to contain eight
chambers : previously the College had let it as a private
house. Evidently "the new hostell" is to be identified
with Ovyng's Inn, which is marked by Lyne in this
position and, according to Dr Caius, was a hostel for
jurists, opposite the western postern of Gonvile Hall\
As late as 1578 it was still known as "Hovynes Inne."
Garret Hostel stood next Ovyngs' Inn and nearer to
Trinity Hall : in Lyne's plan it is made to adjoin Ovyng's
Inn on one side and Garret Hostel Lane on the other'.
Hamond shows a short wall connecting the two parallel
buildings at their southern ends. Garret Hostel had
probably disappeared before Hamond's day, for there is
no mention of it after 1585 : but the name survived and
seems to have been applied to "the new hostell" as late
1 Arch. Hist. ii. pp. 551, 552. Dr Caius records in his Amiah, p. 13 (ed. Venn,
C.A.S. Svo. Publications, 1904), that in 1521 the men of Gerard's or Garret Hostel
and of Ovyng's Inn niade an assault on the postern gate of Gonvile Hall and the
j buttery which adjoined it.
I 2 It should be observed that Garret Hostel Lane only came into existence in
! »545> when the Hostel itself was resumed into the possession of Michaelhouse, of
which it was previously a dependance. Flaxhithe Lane was enclosed in 1306, about
the time when Ovyng'.-> Inn was established.
6—2
84 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
as 1644. "The new hostell" was pulled down in 1662,
being then ruinous, and its site was taken for Bishop's
Hostel. Behind it Hamond shows enclosed ground, to
which entrance was given through an arched gate in
the corner next Garret Hostel Lane, and which reached
to the King's Ditch.
Before 1546 the second area was entirely occupied
by the buildings and grounds of Michaelhouse, including
its dependent hostel of S. Gregory'. Presumably the
western end of the south range and the whole of the
western range of the Great Court, so much of it as is
shown by Hamond, excepting the southern end of the
Lodge, which was built in 1554, w^ere surviving portions
of Michaelhouse. The Gate Tower of Michaelhouse,
which Lyne's plan of 1574 shows fronting Mill Street,
has disappeared. We hear of its walling up in 1552 ;
probably this means that the space of the archway was
converted into chambers. Hamond shows a door in
the position of the old Gate, at the end of Mill Street.
The buildings along Find silver Lane, as far as Phys-
wick Hostel, are low and featureless. Apparently they
had only one upper floor and it had garret windows.
All this range was swept away by Nevile in the altera-
tions of 1594 — 7, w^hen the Queen's gate was erected.
^ The northern part of S. Gregory's Hostel stood on the site of Crouched Hall.
The site was acquired for Michaelhouse in 1337. A Crouched Hostel which stood
on part of the site of the Schools was acquired by the University in 1432 for the
erection of the new Schools. Probably the students migrated to the Michaelhouse
ground when they were displaced from their former quarters. Lyne puts the letter
D on the northern part of the western range of the Great Court, indicating that
that was the position of S. Gregory's Hostel. Fuller says that it stood where in
his day was Trinity College dove-cote. From Arc/i. Hist. li. p. 636, we learn that
in 1555 the dokc-cote was next the Master's garden and a bridge which crossed the
King's Ditch. This bridge is not marked by Lyne or Hamond, but the latter
shows a small structure in the Masters garden, close to the Ditch, which may have
been a dove-cote.
PLAN BY JOPIN HAMOND, 1592 85
The range on the western side of the Great Court
is more interesting. In 1592 it was only carried as far
northwards as the present entrance hall of the Lodge,
and, except the part of the Lodge shown by Hamond,
all the buildings appear to have been in existence before
1546. It would seem that the southern and western
ranges did not join at the angle between Mill Street
and Find silver Lane, the western range being set
further to the west than the end of the southern range, so
as to leave a passage to Ovyng's Inn and Garret Hostel.
At the south-west angle of the Great Court Loggan's
print, made about 16S8, shows a staircase turret, which
is entered by a door on the north side. In Hamond's
i plan there is a turret which is evidently to be identified
• with this; it is not however at the angle but stands a
[ little distance from it, in the western range. It is clear
; that the position which Hamond gives it is no mistake
• in drawing, for he puts the door on the south side, and
1 between the turret and the angle he shows a portion of
i the western range with a window on the upper floor.
I It is therefore evident that when Nevile, between 1594
I and 1597, rebuilt the southern side of the Great Court
^ he set back the western part of the range on that side
f for a few feet northwards. Before this alteration the
I southern ranges of Michaelhouseand Physwick's Hostel
I followed the curving line of Find silver Lane. Nevile
I ingeniously contrived to straighten the line so as to give
t the Great Court the rectangular form which it now
*: presents, and at the same time to retain the old turret,
I altering the position of its door, so that it stood exactly
j at the angle of the court. As a result of this change
■ Trinity (or Find silver) Lane, which in Hamond's day
; was of uniform width, is now considerably widened at
86 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 •
its western end. The Lodge of the Master of Michael-
house was no doubt placed, as other Lodges, at the dais
end of the Hall, and consequently at the southern end
of the western range. The turret is of the pattern of
the stair-turrets annexed to the Master's Lodge in all
the colleges built before 1400^ The Lodge of the
Master of Michaelhouse, or at least its principal rooms,
was probably confined to the upper floor and had the
Fellows' Parlour under it and next to the Hall. Hamond
shows the door which presumably admitted to the
Parlour.
Beyond the door just mentioned the plan shows us
a lofty oriel window, the embattled crest of which reaches
somewhat higher than the eaves of the roof. This, or
a similar oriel in the same place, is drawn in the Scheme,
dated about 1595, for laying out the Great Court, re-
ferred to in note i below. In this Scheme, which was
not carried out, the Hall, Buttery and Kitchen are left
in the original positions which they occupied as parts of
Michaelhouse : the screens are at the northern end of
the Hall, with the Buttery next it and the Kitchen
beyond. This was clearly the arrangement in Hamond's
time, for he shows the door of the screens passage and
the chimney stack of the Kitchen beyond the Hall
northwards. When the western range was prolonged
northwards by the extension of the Master's Lodge
{circa i6co) a new Hall was built, north of the old one, on
the site of the old screens, Buttery and Kitchen, which
^ This turret was destroyed by Essex between 1770 and 1775 [Arch. Hist. ii.
p. 496). The Scheme {circa 1595) for laying out the Great Court, which is repro-
duced in Arch. Hist, ii., between pp. 464, 465, shows that at that time it was
intended to make the Great Court an exact rectanijle, strongly contrasting with the
asymmetrical lines of the old ranges, shown by Hamond. Mr T. D. Atkinson in
C-A.S. Proc. and Cot/tm. viii. pp. 234 — 242 has given a description of the Hall of
Michaelhouse with a diagram of its ground -plan.
I PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 S7
■ were previously interposed inconveniently between the
|: Lodge and the Hall. A new Buttery and Kitchen,
[! with the Parlour above them, were at the same time
ji made out of the old Hall. The oriel was spared as an
!• architectural feature, though it ceased to serve its
[; original use, and, as the range to which it belonged was
I heightened by the addition of a gnrret floor, it no longer
^ reached to the roof. It is shown in Loggan's view and
I in a Perspective View of the Great Court which was
^ drawn in 1740. It was destroyed in 1771, when this
I part of the range was reconstructed by Essex.
I On the roof of the old Pi all Hamond shows a louvre.
I In the eastern wall are four windows, besides the oriel.
i Though the Hall was only 52 feet in length, which is
; about the length of the ancient Halls of Peterhouse
j and Pembroke, and little more than half the width of
i the present Hall, it might very well accommodate the
I small society of Michaelhouse. At the time when Nevile
I began his alterations (1604) it is said that it was almost
I ruinous through extreme old age\
I At the angle between the Lodge and the northern
I range containing King Edward's Tower Hamond shows
! the Master's stair-turret. The range, together with the
turret, was removed about 1600, when Nevile's altera-
tions of the Great Court were carried out. It was built
in 1554 — 5- tHe southern wall having formed part of an
older building, probably belonging to King's Hall: the
northern wall was apparently of timber. Here was
situated the Master's Hall. The desigrn in buildinjj the
range was evidently to retain King Edward's Tower.
Though in Hamond's plan of the Great Court there are
no walks or grass plots, Nevile's intention when he built
^ //rf/5. I/isf. ii. p. 475.
88 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
the Queen's Gate Tower (1597) was evidently to make
a walk between the two Towers, which directly face
each other. The present walk between them follows
the line of Foul Lane.
At the north-west end of the Lodge Hamond shows
two long buildings, not in continuous line, extending to
the King's Ditch. That which is next the Lodge was
the Master's gallery and was erected in 1554^ Below
it a passage with an arched doorwa}^ gave communica-
tion between the garden-grounds lying to the north and
south. The use of the further building is uncertain : in
Loggan's view a ladder placed against one of its upper
windows suggests that in 16S8 it was used as a store-
house. The Lodge garden, which in 1592 was larger
by the area which later was included in the Great Court,
is separated, on its northern side, from the Bowling
Green by a w^all which w^as put up in 1568". Here it
may be observed that the grounds of Trinity, from the
north-west corner of Ga:ret Hostel garden to the end
of the Bowling Green, next S. John's bridge, were fenced
continuously on the side next the King's Ditch and the
river by an embattled wall. The part of the garden
which is nearest the Lodge is laid out with a large
flower-bed, divided into four by cross walks. At the
north-west corner of the garden is a small building which
was probably a summer-house'. Beyond this there is a
triangular space of open ground bounded on two of its
sides by the King's Ditch and the river. This plot,
anciently called Millstones Hill, was acquired by the
1 Arch. Hist. p. 622. The Master's gallery was destroyed after the year iSoo.
- IbiJ. ii. p. 635.
* Loggan shows a building in this position. It was built in 1684 — 5 and was
the Master's Summer House (Arch. Hist. ii. p. 647).
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND. 1592 89
College from the Town in or before the year 1546 — 7.
Part of it is the site of the present Library'.
We now come to the third area, comprising the
south-eastern parts of the College and some adjacent
houses. Foul Lane, which was the western boundary
of this area, was enclosed when the College was founded
and does not appear in Hamond's plan : but Or Caius
says that it began at the Queen's Gate of the Great
Court and joined King's Childer Lane at King Edward's
Tower. The Queen's Gate and the range containing
it were built in 1544 — 97 : the position of the Gate is
marked in Hamond's plan by a door opposite the
Kitchen court of Gonvile Hall. East of this door is a
building which is distinguished from the long, uniform
i range of Michaelhouse by the absence of garrets. In
j this position Lyne shows a Gate Tower in his plan and
\ indicates that it belonged to Physwick Hostel. This
I hostel was perhaps the only one which had a collegiate
I Gate Tower. Of all the hostels it was probably the
[ most important in the sixteenth century. It had a Hall
\l and a garden which occupied the site of an older hostel,
I called S. Margaret's, and, according to Fuller, it had
I many fair chambers. It became the property of Gonvile
I Hall, and was used by that college as a sort of colony
I for the overflow of its students. It is described in 1476
* as then newly built, and it was a flourishing institution
I at the date when it was acquired by Trinity".
I In Find silver Lane, east of Physwick Hostel,
\ Hamond shows a tenement, consistine of a house and
I annexe with a garden which is possibly the property
! which in deeds of the fifteenth century is called /e
\ MigJiell Augell, and, as its name implies, once belonged
i 1 Arch. Hist. ii. p. 407. « /bid. ii. pp. 415— 4 17.
90 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
to Michaelhouse. U was otherwise known as S. Kathe-
rine's, or ''the Gramer Hostel." Beyond this tenement
and near the High Street there are three houses, varying
in size, among which we must place the almshouses, three
in number, founded in 1 463 by Reginald Ely. They were
purchased by Trinity College and removed in 1864,
when new almshouses were erected in St Paul's Road.
The site is occupied by lecture rooms of Trinity College^
Between Find silver Lane and the Great Gate
Hamond places a row of eight dwelling houses, several
of which have courts and annexes behind them. Those
which are nearest to Find silver Lane never became the
property of Trinity. One house, near the middle of the
row, occupied the position of Tyled Hostel, which was
acquired by King's Hall in 1449. In the ground behind
these houses we see some garden plots and three large
enclosures planted with trees. The largest belonged to
the Mighell Angell tenement: the other two, at the date
of the foundation of Trinity, were leased to King's Hall.
Near the middle of these grounds Hamond shows a
tennis court, approached from the Great Court through
a gate and by a passage parallel with Find silver Lane.
On the northern side of the Mighell Angell ground and
projecting westwards into the Great Court there is a
range of chambers in three floors. It belonged to King's
Hall and was probably erected about 1 490. As no doors
are to be seen in the plan it was evidently entered from
the north. It was constructed of timber and was re-
moved by Nevile in I599^
Hamond's presentation of the Great Gate is not a
travesty, such as Lyne's, but in the main is conventional.
It is precisely similar to his drawings of the Gate Towers
^ Arch. Hist. ii. p. 4 19. ^ Ibid. ii. p. 476.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 91
of Queens' and S. John's, except that it shows a smaller
side door next the large one : in each case he puts a
single broad window, instead of two, above the arch and
omits the niche. The Great Gate was begun in 15 iS
and partially completed in 1535 : it was heightened in
1598 and adorned with sculptures and canopies in
1 6 14 — 15. When first constructed it was isolated from
the other buildings of King's Hall and was not the
entrance to a quadrangle. The short range next it on
the south was begun in 1556: it overlapped the timber
range just mentioned and was not in contact with it.
The ranore between the Gate and the Chanel was finished
about 1584.
Like Loggan, Hamond shows an embattled wall on
either side of the approach to the Gate. That on the
northern side is continued along- the High Street as far
as the boundary of S. John's. It encloses a garden,
larger than the present grass-plot, and two bays of the
Chapel project into it : Loggan more accurately shows
three. Hamond is unusually inaccurate in his drawing
of the Chapel. There are actually twelve bays, of which
one, where the eastern range abuts on the Chapel, has
no window. Hamond places a window in the vacant bay
and shows only eight windows in the south wall of the
ChapeP.
Inside the Gate there is shown a tree, growingf in
a box, like that in the principal quadrangle of Trinity
Hall. The buildings which present themselves near the
Gate are as yet quite fortuitously disposed. Some of
them are old buildings belonging to King's Hall : others
are new creations. On the left the timber range of
^ The external length of the Chapel is correctly shown by Hamond as about
200 feet.
92 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
King's Hall, already mentioned, projects awkwardly
half-way into what is now the Great Court. Facing the j
Gate is the short extension of the western range of 1
Michaelhouse containing the Kitchen and a portion of
the Lodge. At right angles to this is the range con-
taining King Edward's Tower. Its line, if produced,
would bring it exactly to the arch of the Great Gate, a
calamitous result which was obviated by the total re-
moval of the range by Nevile in 1600, when the Tower
was re-erected at the west end of the Chapel. Hamond's
picture of it differs curiously both from the existing
Tower and from what may be gathered of its appear-
ance from the Bursar's accounts of King's Hall. From
these accounts we learn that it had angle turrets, as the
existing structure has, and that it was occupied as
chambers. Hamond shows neither turrets nor windows
and gives the Tower a curious domical cap, evidently
of lead.
We may next proceed to the fourth area of the
College, viz. that which lay north of King's Hall Lane,
which, it will be remembered, ran from near the Great
Gate to King Edward's Gate in its original position.
The plan — if plan it can be called — of King's Hall was
extraordinarily irregular, and the anomalies which made
it unlike any of the ancient colleges render it difhcult
to explain its arrangements without the aid of a ground
plan such as is admirably supplied in Mr Caroe's mono-
graph' on the King's Hostel and that which is here
produced (fig. 28) from the Architectiiral History.
The feature of an outer as well as an inner Gate of
Entrance is one of the unexplained anomalies". King
1 C. A.S. Quarto Publications (1909), A7w/j Hostel, Trinity College, Cambridge.
' The relation of the Great Gate to the rest of King's Hall is inexplicable
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
93
THE
ScAi£ or fee T.
Fig. 28. Ground plan of Kinj^'s Hall ; as determined by Professor Willis. The existing buildings
of Trinity College are indicated by a doited line.
94 PLAN BY JOHN PIAMOND, 1592
Edward's Tower (1426 — 37), the building of which
preceded that of the Great Gate by nearly a century,
fronted King's Hall Lane but did not form a part of
the older buildings, which stood considerably to the
north of it. Between the Tower and the Chapel Hamond
shows a ranee which has three staircase entries and the
unusual number of four storeys. It was built at the
same time as the Tower and is an extension of the
western rans^e of the cloister court of Kinor's Hall. It
was destroyed by Nevile about the year 1600, when the
Tower was transferred to its present position at the west
end of the Chapel. This, as well as the adjoining
western cloister range, contained chambers allotted to
the Master of King's Hall^
Of the small quadrangle of King's Hall Hamond
shows that the western and northern ranges were still
in existence in 1592, as well as the northern half of the
eastern range. The other parts had been destroyed,
before 1555, to make room for the Chapel. The western
range, excepting a small portion on the site of which
King Edward's Tower was re-erected, still exists, and
has recently (1905 — 6) been restored to something like
its ancient form by Mr Caroe. It was built at different
dates between 1375 and 14 18. The southern end was
occupied on the upper floors by the Master: the northern
end consisted of chambers. Of the northern range only
except on the hypothesis that, before the dissolution of Kind's Hall, some develop-
ment of its buildings was in contemplation which involved the clo.^ing of King's
Hall Lane and the removal of King Edward's Tower. Its situation with regard to
either was otherwise almost impossibly inconvenient. The position given to King's
Hall Chapel {1463— 99), external to the court and independent of it, and the
erection of the timber range (1490) on the southern side of King's Hall Lane, give
some likelihood to the suggestion.
^ Arch. Hist. ii. p. 444. The Statutes given to Trinity in 1552, at which time
the new Master's Lodge had not been built, assigned to the Master all the build-
ings situated round the cloister of King's Hall (ibid. p. 460).
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 .- 95
the roof is visible in Hamond's pkin. It contained the
Library and was built 14 16 — 22 \ On the western side
of the quadrangle Hamond shows a cloister walk with
six arches: this was constructed about the same time as
the Library. Neither Hamond nor Lyne shows the
cloister walk which existed on the northern side. The
northrTn end of the eastern range, which was built
between 1386 and 1395, contained the Kitchen. This
I eastern part and the Library were destroyed, as ruinous,
j in 1 694-.
[ The Bowling Green, which is overlooked from the
[ restored western range of King's Hall quadrangle, was
\ made in 1648. In Hamond's plan the space which it
j occupies was laid out as a garden with flower-beds and
i trees, and there is no green for bowls. It had been the
I gardenof King's Hall. In the middle of it both Hamond
1 and Lyne mark a curious structure which was probably
I a dove-cote. It had apparendy ceased to exist when
j- Loggan made his view. Hereabouts was the Colum-
\ barium of Kine's HalP. There is a o-arden house at the
I north-west corner of the garden, on the river bank.
! Having completed our survey of Trinity we now
J pass to 5. /o/ifi's college (fig. 27 on p. 80). It is parted
I: from Trinity by a lane, the property of S. John's, which
I- is entered from the street through an arch and leads to
I the Kitchen and to the river. The arch is set at the
i^ 1 I.yne's view of this range shows five windows on the upper floor and a larger
I one in the western gable. Of the last no trace was found in Mr Caroe's restoration.
I In this place Mr Caroe places ordinary chambers, and it seems that the Library did
\ not extend to the Bowling Green gable.
\ 2 The southern end of the eastern range was occupied by the Buttery, and the
\ southern range by the Hall and Parlour. The Chapel of King's Hall, standing
I between the eastern range and the street, partly on the site of the present Chapel,
was built between 1463 and 1469. All these buildings had been removed before
Hamond's lime.
^ Caroe, King's Hostel, p. 7 ; Arch. Hist. ii. pp. 441 and 460.
96 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
extremity of an embattled wall which continues the
similar wall parting the ground at the east end of thei
Chapel of Trinity from the street. The street in front;
of the two colleges was widened on both sides in the !
course of last century \ On the northern side of S. John's |
Hamond shows another lane conducting from the Hio-h ■
Street to a quay on the river bank. It was called j
S. John's Lane and, like the other, was entered from
the street through an arch. It was acquired by the
College from the Town and closed in 1863-. Along the
\vhole front of the College, fencing the sidewalk from
the road, Hamond shows a line of rails, with taller posts
at the ends and at the opening opposite the Gate.
Similar rails are to be seen in Loggan's views of other
colleges^ but no other example is shown by Hamond.
Before we consider the main buildino-s of the Colleo-e
o o
we may notice a house which, in Hamond's plan, stands
on the opposite side of the street at the north-western
corner of All Saints' churchyard. The ground on which
it is situated had formerly been the cemetery of the
Hospital of S. John^ and became the property of the
College. About the year 1588 it was converted into a
Pensionary, i.e. chambers for the occupation of students
who were not on the foundation of the Colleee. Its
use for this purpose ended about the close of the
eighteenth century*.
^ There is a graphic description of the street between the gates of the two
colleges in The Riot at the Great Gate of Trinity College, ibio—ibu (J. W. Clark,
C.A.S. Octavo Publications, xliii. 1906).
2 Arch. Hist. ii. p. 235. ' Ibid. iii. pp. 295, 296.
* See the passage cited from Baker's History of Saint John's College in The
Dual Origin 0/ the Tovin of Carnbridi^e, p. 21 note (Gray, C.A.S. Quarto Publi-
cations, i. 1 90S).
' There is a view of the old houses occupying the site of the Pensionary (now
the Divinity Schools) in Old Cambridge (Redfern), plate XXlil.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 97
The Gate Tower is represented by Hamond in much
the same way as the Great Gate of Trinity College.
The south-western corner turret is surmounted by a tall
cross, which was taken down in the seventeenth century,
at the time of the Civil War'. The ranges north and
south of the Gate show no conspicuous difference from
their appearance in Loggan's view, A walk leads from
I the Gate to the Hall screens, and the grass plots on
[ either side are fenced with rails'. Near the north-west
; angle of the Court is seen the oriel of the Hall. Between
I it and the corner Hamond, inaccurately, places two
! windov/s, one above the other : in actual fact the oriel
; was at the northern end of the Hall range, and the
I Parlour, which was at the dais end of the Hall, was
! lighted only from the north. Equally incorrecdy
I Hamond shows three windows, instead of two, in the
I eastern wall of the Hall. Only the roofs of the north
j and south ranges are shown'. The east window of the
; Chapel is seen between, and recessed behind, the eastern
I range and the eastern gable of a building which stands
r on the northern side of the Chapel and looks as though
[■ it was contiguous with it: there was actually an inter-
l vening space of eleven feet. This building was a part
j of the Hospital of S. John. It has been called the
I Infirmary, but it is more likely that it was originally a
I chapel. It was fitted up as chambers in 1585, and
I destroyed in 1862'. In Loggan's view a covered passage
? 1 Arc/t. Hist. ii. p. 316 (quotation from Baker).
§ '^ The rails had been removed when Loggan's view was taken.
\ 3 The axis of the Chapel is not due east to west, but considerably inclined
j; north and south. Hamond, not quite accurately, represents the front of the College
I as facing due east. The Chapol of S. John's College is the only chapel which in
[ his plan does not exhibit its southern face.
* Loggan shows windows on three floors in the gable of the so-called Infirmary
a-s well as in the e;xstern range: Ilamond in both cases shows only two; but Arch.
H. 1
98 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
is shown at the east end of the Chapel, giving com-
munication between this building and the Entrance
Court. In Hamond's day this had no existence, and the
only entrance to the building was in S. John's Lane.
Beyond the screens we see a passage with a tennis
court on its northern side, and on the southern side a
small quadrangle, which was built about 1526 and re-
moved about 1 60 1, when the Second Court was being
built. In the northern range of this quadrangle was the
Master's gallery. The Lodge was between the northern
end of the Hall and the Chapel and, except through the
Hall, there was no interior communication between it
and the gallery. A wing of the Lodge extends west-
ward from the dais end of the Hall, and at its western
end we see the Master's turret. Beyond this end of the
Lodge is the Master's garden and an extensive orchard
reaching to the river bank. Between the orchard and
the Bowling Green of Trinity is a rectangular piece of
open ground, which is now occupied by the southern parts
of the second and third courts. A large house with ad-
joining smaller buildings stands on t?ie river bank. Next
to the house is the bridge, Hamond's drawing of which
shows that it was a wooden structure, and so it is pic-
tured by Loggan. It is barred by an arched gate of
timber at the eastern end. S. John's, Queens' and
King's were the only colleges which possessed bridges
in the sixteenth century, as they alone had grounds on
both sides of the river.
In the space which is bounded by S. John's Lane,
Bridge Street and the river Hamond shows a multitude
of houses without any noticeable feature. Some are
Hist. ii. p. 247 shows that there were tliree storeys. Lo£^ga.n's view agrees with
Hamond in showiiiij only one chimney, w hich was at the western end.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 99
disposed about four-sided courts, others are ranged along
alleys which run from Bridge Street to the river. At
the end of S. John's Lane we see a masted "keel" and
a small boat moored to the bank, and near it the arm of
a crane projecting over the water. It is noteworthy that
in his view of S. John's College Loggan shows a string
of barges which are being towed by a man in a row-boat,
a covered "tilt" hauling timber and poled up stream by
two men, and another barge towed from the bank.
Above the bridge were several stathes, one of which, on
the northern bank, still exists at the end of the lane
which in medieval times, as now, was called Fisher's
Lane, Just at this point Lyne shows a fishing-boat, in
mid-stream, draofg'ino' a net.
Hamond gives little indication of the appearance of
the Great Briggc ; it is evidently made of timber, has
wooden railings with high posts, and seemingly has two
piers in the stream. Sailing and row-boats are moored
to the south bank below it.
There are no noteworthy features on the western
side of Magdalene Street until we come to the church of
6". Peter (Sheet 3). It has a nave, a western tower and
spire, a porch near the western end of the south wall,
three windows in the same wall and a small door near
• its eastern end, and an eastern window. In 1742, when
;. Cole described the church, there was a chancel and a
; south aisle, neither of which appears in Hamond's view.
\ Beyond the churchyard is S. Peter's Lane, leading to
I the open ground called Pound Green, which was
I reckoned as part of the Western Field of Cambridge
I and took its name from a pound, which existed on the
i "Western side of the lane so lately as 1909. This Green
J is represented as descending the slope of the hill to a
100 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
point in Northampton Street near the School of Pytha-'
goras. On its western side Hamond indicates a bank,'
which is still to be seen on the road called Mount
Pleasant and was the vallum of the presumably Roman
camp\ I
Opposite the Castle the road, which at this point is
now known as Castle Street, widens into a roughly
square area in which the plan shows two small fenced
courts with attached buildings. Pound Green reaches
to this area and is not divided from it by any fence or
hedge. Further on the road narrows and then widens
again into a very large parallelogram, in which Hamond
has written All Sainctes at the Castell. The old church
of All Saints, which had been disused since the four-
teenth century, seems to have totally disappeared before
Hamond made his plan'. The enclosure which was
formerly the grave-yard and is now a nurser}'' garden is
shown with a large barn-like building in the middle of
it: this was "the great barn nigh unto the stone crosse
in Huntingdon Way" which is often mentioned in six-
teenth century deeds of S. John's College. South of it
is a close walled on all sides and containing no building.
Houses, gardens and a large plantation of trees occupy
the space contained between Shelly Row and Mount
Pleasant. This part is called in the Field Books Hare
Hill or Hore Hill.
On the verge of the plan Hamond marks the bank
^ In the middle of Pound Green Loggan marks a watering place for cattle,
planted round with trees. It is shown also in Custance's plan of 1798. In the
sixteenth century terrier of Cambridge Field it is called Chalkwell. Hamond does
not mark it.
^ Lyne marks the site as Parcchia omtiiit'n saiictarurn ad Castrum and puts a
large house on the road front of the old churchyard. In Fuller's plan of Cambridge
(1634) there is a fanciful representation of the ruins of the church, showing what
looks like a tower at its eastern end.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 101
which formed the northern rampart of the ancient camp
and is now seen next the road called Pleasant Row.
Just beyond the place where the bank reaches the
Huntingdon Road he shows a mound on which there
is a platform of two steps surmounted by a structure of
enigmatical appearance. It stands at the point where
the boundary of the town of Cambridge and the parish
of Chesterton crosses the Huntingdon Road. Probably
it is the High Cross, or Stone Cross, mentioned in a
terrier of Cambridge Field (date 1572) as standing at
the Castle End\ If this identification is correct we may
conjecture that the cross is the same as that mentioned
by Dr Caius" : " Close to the Castle is a market cross,
constructed of solid stone, on the northern side of the
Castle. It is called the market cross from the circum-
stance that there is a constant tradition that about it
the market of the old town was formerly held." If the
tradition to which Dr Caius refers is to be trusted we
may assume that "the market of the old town" was held
in the wide parallelogram, above mentioned, between
All Saints' church and the north-west angle of the Castle
boundsl
From the northern extremity of the town we will
now retrace our steps, taking the left-hand or eastern
side of the streets which lead us back to our starting
point at the King's Ditch, next Pembroke.
We first pass a large piece of arable ground which
^ " Huntington waye beginneth at y^ hye stone Cross at \* Castle end." It is
otherwise called Stoupencrowche (stooping cross) and described as "a lyttle stomped
Crosse," implying that it was dilapidated in the sixteenth century.
^ Historia CaiiUbrigictisis Acade//iii£ (ed. 1574), p. 9. Lyne's plan does not
include the parts north of the Castle.
3 On the subject of the cross and the old market see T/'te Dual Origin of the
Town of Cam iridic (C.A.S. Quarto Publications, 190S, p. 9) and Dr Stokes' paper
on Wayside Crosses iti Cambridge (C.A.S. Proc. and Coinm. xx. pp. 23 — 25).
102 PLAN BY JOHN HA^IOND, 1592
IS not parted from the road by a fence. The furrows i
run north and south, and at either end are transverse 3
headlands. In the southern headland there is depicted i
a man ploughing with a team of four oxen and a horse, j
This croft was the property of the Scholars of Merton j
and was known as the Sale, or Sale Piece. It was in- j
eluded in the borough of Cambridge and reckoned as 1
an oudying part of Cambridge Field. The Castle and •
the land extending from the Sale northwards along the i
eastern side of Huntingdon Road w^ere, and still remain, j
in Chesterton parish. On the eastern side of the Castle |
the plan shows a long grass strip, on which sheep are j
grazing, and beyond it a wide stretch of arable land, in j
furlong strips, which was part of Chesterton Field. I
On the south side of the Sale Hamond marks The \
Castell, the history of which is given in the Introduction. I
In the middle of the bailey stands the Keep. As Lyne's |
presentation of it is purely fanciful, and it had alto- j
gether disappeared when Fuller wrote his History, it is \
unfortunate that Hamond's plan is too much blurred by :
wear to afford any but the roughest idea of its appear- \
ance, and nothing is shown of the Casde mound. The ;
walls of the Keep enclose a rectangular court, measuring
about 100x85 feet, which seems to be laid out as a !
garden, and has nothing to give acastellated appearance. i
A building a little to the east of the Keep is pretty \
certainly the Shire House, which Loggan marks in this j
position : Cole says that it was of the reign of Elizabeth. I
The Gate House is to be seen, not very distinctly, next i
the street', and from it an embatded wall is carried to j
' Until 1802 the Gate House served as the County Gaol. In Le Keux's \
Memorials of Cambridge, vol. 2, there are pictures of it as ic appeared in 1773 and
in 1S42, the former reproduced from Grose's Antiquities.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 103
the north-west angle of the bailey and then along the
bank on its northern and eastern sides. There is a lower
wall on the crown of the slope that descends to the fosse
on the southern side. Two curtain walls connect the
Keep severally with the ends of the southern wall. The
fosse on the southern side serves as a roadway leading
to the grass land on the eastern side of the Castle. A
Fig. 29. Magdalene College, from Hamond's map of Cambridge, 1592.
turret stands at the middle point of the north wall of
the bailey. The two large bastions in the eastern de-
fences, shown in Loggan's plan, of course do not appear
in Hamond's: they were constructed in 1643.
In the crowded houses which front the street between
the Castle and Chesterton Lane there is no special
104 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
feature to remark. The church of .S". Giles has a laro^e
o
eastern window, four windows in the southern wall, a
porch at the south-west end, and a small transept, near
the east end of the north wall, which Cole, describing
the church in 1742, calls a "north cross aisle." In the
churchyard, next the street, is a small structure which
was a wooden bell-house. The roadway of Chesterton
Lane ends at the borough boundary, and beyond its
end are the pasture and arable land of Chesterton Field.
On the southern side of the lane is S. Giles' Rectory
Farmhouse, built on three sides of a court and planted
round with trees. Hamond does not mark the grating,
referred to on p. xxvii of the Introduction, which Lyne's
plan shows at the junction of Magdalene Street with
Northampton Street and Chesterton Lane.
The quadrangle of Magdalene college in Hamond's
plan has its present appearance (see fig. 29). Hall and
Chapel are both shown, and on the roof of the former is a
bell-turret: it was put up in 15S6. The passage at the
west end of the Chapel gave communication, as it does
still, with the Master's garden and orchard. The house
adjoining the quadrangle on the north was an inn called
the Star. The door of the screens passage is shown
opening on a square enclosure, now the second court.
Beyond it the Orchard is seen lined with trees on all
its sides. The raised terrace is not shown by Hamond
or by Loggan in his plan and view. In its place Hamond
has a plot of ground which appears to be a vegetable
garden. Beyond this on the verge of the sheet
we may remark an enclosure containing several fish-
ponds. It was the "pond yard" of Magdalene and
formerly of Buckingham College : the ponds were actu-
ally filled up six years before the date of Hamond's plan.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND. 1592 105
A lane extends along the south wall of the College,
which was known as Kymbalton's (afterwards Salmon's)
Lane. Between it and the river is a group of buildings,
the property of Jesus College, which in the reign of
Henry VIII were leased as a brewery to a certain
Francis van Home, and were still so used in Fuller's
time.
On the south side of the Bridge (Sheet 4) the open
space of the Quay Side is seen, and beyond it is a block of
closely packed houses which is bounded on the southern
side by a lane formerly called Harlcston's (now Thomp-
son's) Lane. A branch of this lane, called Little Harles-
ton's Lane, turns north to the river bank, and at its river
\i end is a piece of open ground. Hereabouts was the
I ancient Harleston's Inn, a hostel of jurists\ In a quad-
fi rangle on the eastern side of Little Harlcston's Lane and
■^ in the building's which reach from it to the river-side we
I probably recognise the actual hostel. The door of the
I quadrangle opens on a passage which is an eastward
I continuation of the larq;er Harleston's Lane and leads
I to a footbridge crossing the Kymges diche. The King's
f Ditch here is the northern end of the Ditch which begins
\ at the Mills above Queens' College. The footbridge
\ conducts to a laro^e close which Loooan calls The Master
; of S^ lohns Coll. Dove hons and Jish p07ids. Hamond
j marks a number of ponds in it. This close on its eastern
I side is parted from Jesus Green by another watercourse,
I where Park Parade now stands.
I The church of S. Clcr/ient, as it is shown by Hamond,
j has neither tower nor chancel, and the eastern gable
' * Dr Caius, quoted in Arch. Hist. i. p. xxvi, says that Harleston's Inn was
situated on the river bank, not far from the east end of the bridge, at the lower end
of Harleston's Lane: according to Richard Parker it was close to the King's Ditch.
io6 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
contains no window. It has a south aisle, and, as at
present, the entrance is by a door, without a porch, near
the western end of the aisled Eastwards, beyond the
churchyard, are enclosures planted with trees : one of
them contains a dove-house. A large garden, be-
longing and opposite to a house in Thompson's Lane,
occupied part of these grounds until 191 1. Neither
S. Clement's Passage nor Portugal Place existed in
Hamond's day.
On the south side of the churchyard and next the
street the buildings arranged about a courtyard appear
to be those of S. Clement's Hostel, a hostel of jurists,
mentioned by Dr Caius'. Next to the hostel eastwards
was the vicarage of S. Clement's.
The church of S. Sepulchre (Sheet 9) is shown with
less accuracy than we are accustomed to expect from
Hamond. There is nothing in his drawing of it to
indicate that the upper storey of the round part is of
less diameter than the lower. Only one of the two rows
of lights in the upper part is exhibited. As Hamond
has drawn it the nave looks like a polygonal structure,
but, in fact, before the alterations of 1841, the lower part
was circular, the upper polygonal. He show^s four sides
of the polygon, though only three could possibly be in
view at one time, and pilasters which seem to be carried
uninterruptedly from the ground to the roof and end in
pinnacles instead of the battlements which existed prior
to 1 84 1. The windows in either storey are large and
represent the fifteenth century insertions which were
' The tower had "vanished quite away," some time before 1616 (Gray, The
Priory of S. KaJegtnid, p. 28 note). In Cole's time the bells were hung in a wooden
belfry on the north-west side of the clmrchyard.
^ Richard Chevin, burgess and baker, in his will dated 155Q, states that he
occupied the house w hich w as formerly Clement Hostel. Cooper, Annals, ii. p. 151.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 107
removed when the church was " restored " in modern
Norman character. The odd perspective of the chancel
is due to an attempt to show more of the round nave than
is possible. There is a wall, with no visible entrance,
between the church and the street, and the churchyard
is contained by a palisade.
We will now return alon^; S. John's Street and,
passing the already-mentioned Pensionary of S. John's,
we arrive at All Halowcs in tlie Izcry — so called because
it was situated in the old Jews' quarter. The plan shows
the nave of the church with an aisle on the southern
. side, a north porch, the chancel and a western battle-
- mented tower which stands wholly within the church-
1' yard and not on the side-walk of the street, as it did
I until 1864, when church and tower were destroyed.
I The chancel existing at that time was a structure of
[ brick, built in 1726, the old chancel shown by Hamond
% having become ruinous. The churchyard is entered by
I an opening in its w^all next the Pensionary and there is
I another opening at the eastern end of the churchyard,
I next to a lane, leading to Bridge Street, known as
I Dolphin Lane, which took its name from the Dolphin,
I one of the principal inns of Cambridge in the sixteenth
i century. This inn stood on the site of the larger of the
I two Master's courts of Trinity, with a front to Bridge
s Street, and may be recognised in the plan. The branches
^ of All Saints' Passage which now enclose the churchyard
\ on two sides did not exist in 1592.
'* Nextthe churchyard and oppositethe gate of Trinity
I is the Sun Inn, distinguished in the plan by its court-
j yard. In the houses which front the street on this side
I the only thing to detain us until we reach the church of
i 5". Michael is a somewhat large courtyard, with buildings
io8 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
irregularly placed round it and a very narrow frontage
to Trinity Street. Perhaps it represents Burden's
Hostel, a hostel of jurists, which is described by Fuller
as " near the back gate of the Rose Tavern, opening
against Caius College." Green Street, which is marked
and named in Loggan's plan of 168S, had no existence
in 1592. There was then no public way between the
High Street and Conduit (i.e. Sidney) Street until the
Market Place was reached. Between these two streets
there was a very large square piece of open ground,
with rows of trees on three of its sides, to which the
only access seems to have been through the courtyards
of the adjoining houses.
Hamond's representation of S. Michael's church
shows a tower with a rather lofty spire. The latter,
which has now disappeared, was in fact, and as Lyne
shows it, a small timber structure. Hamond shows
a north porch and a south aisle extending to the full
length of the church. Except on the street side the
churchyard is encompassed with houses. Rose Crescent
does not exist, but long courtyards reach on the one side
from the High Street, on the other from Market Hill,
and are only separated at their extremities by a single
building.
At the corner of the High Street, facing S. Mary's
church, where are now the premises of Messrs Bowes
and Bowes, we remark a large and conspicuous house
with windows of exceptional size. Early in the seven-
teenth century the church rates for this house were paid
by William Scarlett, bookseller, and John Crane, apothe-
cary, the latter of whom (d. 1654) was the founder of
the Charity for Sick Scholars'. This house is in Sherers
* Information supplied by the late Mr Robert Bowes.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 109
Lane, of which Shocmakey' Lajie is a continuation. In
these two lanes were some of the chief inns of Cambridge.
A house near the north-west corner of Hamond'sJ/^r/^t'/f
Hill, distinguished in the plan by three arches of en-
trance, windows in four storeys and a long courtyard
behind it, was the Rose Tavern, the yard of which is
now represented by Rose Crescent. Here, Full jr says,
formerly stood S. Paul's Inn, a jurists' hostel. A tall
house, which in the plan appears behind the steeple of
Trinity church, was probably another famous inn, the
Angel. In Shoemaker Lane a house which presents a
double gable to the lane seems to be the Black Bear,
part of the courtyard of which has been converted into
Market Passacfe.
The last-named inn faces Trinity c/iirck, which has
a tall spire, a porch on the south side, a south aisle,
above which the clerestory of the nave appears, and a
chancel. Hamond does not show the transepts, both of
which existed in his day. A curious detail in the plan
is the pump-handle attached to the churchyard wall at
its north-eastern corner. A pump is shown in the same
place in Ackerman's view of 1S15 and in Le Keux's of
1842. From it Cundit, or Conduit, Street, as the street,
now Sidney Street, was called as early as the thirteenth
century, derived its name^
We will now return to the Hiorh Street and to Great
6". Ma7'ies, Hamond's picture of which is particularly
interesting. In 1592 the tower was not finished. The
^ In the Barnwell Liber MemoraiiJorurrt, p. •:Si^, a messuage in Trinity r'.-iri>h
is described as ^.v olposiio k Ctiii.iuit. The name, Conduit Street, may possibly be
derived from a pump which existed in the wall of the Grey Friars, in Sidney Street
(Arck. Hut. ii. p. 478 note). But as the Conduit of the Lif:-r Memorandorum
existed in the thirteenth century it could not have been derived from the Grey
Friars' conduit which was not made until 1327.
110 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND. 1592
belfr)' stage was begun in 1593 and not completed until ;
i6o8^ Hamond's view of the tower is nevertheless a \
particularly accurate representation of it in its present 1
appearance. The corner buttresses, the belfry windows, j
the battlementsand pinnaclesare shown with exceptional I
fidelity. He evidently made use of a builder's drawing, '•
and the church accounts of 1591 show that paste-board !
collecting cards, with plans, or "platforms of the steple," j
existed and were paid for in that year-. The rest of the '•
church is drawn with equal attention to detail. On the i
south side we see an aisle with a porch in the position i
of the present one^ the still existing turret between the I
two easternmost bays, and a door near the eastern end. !
The wall of the aisle has battlements : that of the nave j
has pinnacles as well as battlements. The churchyard ;
is entered at the south-west and north-east ends, j
Houses border it on the eastern and part of the southern |
side: they were removed in 1849. There were also two
houses built against the west end of the church, one on
either side of the principal door : H amond does not show
them*.
We must now consider the plan of the Market,
which in 1592 was smaller and more scattered than it
is now. Fig. 30 (from Atkinson-Clark, Cambridge
Described and Illustrated) which should be compared
with Hamond's plan (fig. 25, p. 64) gives the clearest
indication of its old and modern arrangement. The
o
^ Atkinson and Clark, Cambi-iJ^e Described and Illustrated, p. 147 note.
* J. E. Foster, Church-wardens' Accounts of S. Mary the Great, Cambridge
^C.A.S. 8vo. Publications, xxxv.) anno 1591, "Item paid for iij paste bords to
make iij platformes of the Steple when we did gather for yt at the commensement,
iij"*": anno 1593 "Item paid to a paynter for drawing of a plotform of St. maries
Steple upon velarn parchement for my Lord arche bysshop of Caunterhurie, xviij^.'
^ The existing porch was built in 18SS.
* G. J. Gray in C.A.S. /Vvr. and Com?n. xiii. pp. 235 — 250.
\Corn Market
Vnt "ortft end/
Poultry
& Butter
(Guildhall of 1782
[(Upper floor)
[Snire Ho,,,, 0/ 1747
{Prison and Tannert' Hall
[Part of Guildhall of 178a
;e destro'jed.
J9th. Century.
■I'stlng privats hous99 of
nous dates.
\ ..Houses de:^troyed.
Yig. 30. Plan of the Markets and Municipal Buildings.
112 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
present Market Square was laid out, after afire, in 1849.
Previous to that year the Market consisted of three
main parts — the same which are named by Hamond
Market Hill, Market IVarde and Pease market. A
rectangular block of houses occupied the western part
of the present Market Square. It was parted from the
houses at the east end of S. Mary's churchyard by a
narrow street called Smith's Row or Pump Lane, the
latter name being derived from a pump which is shown
in Lyne's plan. The houses in Pump Lane (or Warwick
Street, as it was afterwards called) were removed in
1850. Between the southern end of this street and the
Pease Market Hamond places the Market Cross, raised
on a platform. It is without the domical covering shown
by Ly ne (see p. 1 1 ). The accounts of the Town treasurers
for 1586 — 7 show that the covering was removed in
that year^
Of the houses on the eastern side of Market Hill the
only one which needs remark is that which stands at
the corner, next Petty Cury. This was the house of the
Veysy family, and was rebuilt by John Veysy, a wealthy
grocer, in 1538. It contained three elaborately adorned
fireplaces of clunch^ one of which is now in the Museum
of Archaeology, the others at Madingley Hall and in the
Librarian's room at the Free Library, Cambridge. It
is said that this house, before it was rebuilt by John
Veysy, was occupied by Peter Cheke, University bedel
and father of Sir John Cheke*.
' Cooper, Anna!s, ii. p. 450.
' One of the fireplaces bears the monogram and trade mark of John Veysy
(Atkinson and Clark, Cambridge Described and Illustrated, p. 77). The trade mark
is almost identical with that of Nicholas Speryng, well known as a stationer of the
University and an acquaintance of Erasmus. (See C.A.S. Proc. and Comm. xiii.
p. 130, Clark and J. E. Foster.) In a deed of 1525 the house is conveyed to
Henry Veysy and Peter Cheke, and among the witnesses to the document is
j PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 113
j On the southern side of Market Ward, on the ground
I which is now occupied by the front part of the Guildhall
I and adjoining shops, Mamond places six parallel struc-
{ tures lying north and south. The three which are nearest
! to Petty Cury were the Shambles. Two of them were
putupini552^ The adjoining street, now called Guild-
l hall Street, was formerly known as Butchers' Row. On
f the inner wall of the easternmost row Hamond marks
f a pump. This was probably " the fountain in the
I market," for the making of which the Corporation gave
^ twenty shillings in 1567. A "fountain" existed in the
J Market as early as 1429'.
i On the western side of the three Shambles just
i described, and parallel with them, is a taller building, the
' upper floor of which is supported by live arches. This
[• is perhaps "the chamber over the shambles," with stalls
[ below, which in 1632 was assigned by the Corporation
'; for the use of the tanners, when the old Tanners' Hall,
\ which stood near it at the corner of the Pease Market,
t was converted into a house of correction for theTolbooth
I prisoners^ Before that year the Town prison was con-
: tained in the small house in the Pease Market which
', adjoined the old Tanners' Hall. It was granted to the
1 townsmen, to serve as a gaol, in 1224 by Henry HI,
' and had previously been the dwelling of the Jew,
I Benjamin^ The Tolbooth, or Town Hall, is the
■ ordinary-looking building, distinguished by its high
I chimney, which lies transverse to the Shambles at their
i
i Nicholas Speryng. For an account of the house see the passage above referred to
1 in Cambridge Desiribcd and Jllustrnlcd a.nd C.A.S. Proc. and Conim. vii. p. 93.
^ Cooper, Annals, ii. p. 63 : each of the two butchers' houses contained fourteen
standings. Loggan indicates tlie position of the Shambles by two parallelograms of
dotted lines.
; 2 /^;V/. i. p. I So and ii. p. -231. ^ Ibid. iii. p. z-^S. * Ibid. i. p. 39.
! H. s
114 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND. 1592
southern end. The long building in the Pease Market,
next to Wheeler Street, is evidently the Corn Chamber,
which has only recently disappeared.
In Pety Curie there were many inns, of which the
Lion yet survives and the Falcon and the Wrestlers be-
long to recent recollection. I n the plan (Sheet 6) we may
recognise their long yards. In the open ground which
lies behind them and extends to S/aicg/ilei' Lmie (Corn
Exchange Street) there is a long footway, fenced by a
palisade on either hand, which conducts towards the
King's Ditch : it coincides in direction with the lane now
called Tibbs Row. The Ditch crosses Slaughter Lane
at the northern end of the Fair Yard (S. Andrew's Hill).
It skirts thewestern boundaryof S. Andrew'schurchyard
and reaches S. Andrew's Street at Barnwell Gate. The
Gate, near which one post existed in the time of Dr
Caius, had entirely disappeared before 1592. Of the
church of S. Andrew the tower, nave, south aisle and
chancel are shown.
Returning to the Pease Market we remark that
S. Edwards church has passages enclosing it on three
sides, as at present. Opposite the east end of the church
an insulated block of low buildinos stands in the Pease
Market: they were removed between 1840 and 1874.
The tower of the church is crested with battlements
and has a low spire. The south aisle has battlements
and a porch, but no east window. The clerestory of the
nave shows above the aisle. The unimportant-looking
house shown at the south-west corner of the Pease
Market is traditionally said to have been the residence
of Thomas Hobson, the celebrated carrier, who died in
1 63 1, It has lately been removed and a hosier's shop
now occupies the site. Hobson's stables are said to
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
"5
have occupied the ground on the western side of the
house\
South of the Pease Market is the area included by
Little Butcher Row (Wheeler Street), Luthborne Lane
(Free School Lane), Dowe dyers Lane (Pembroke
Street) and Slaughter Lane (Corn Exchange Street)
f
^W^H^
Fig. 3r. Site of t!ie Augustine Friars, reduced from Hamond's map of
Cambridge, 1592.
(Sheet 6). In this we see a large space of ground marked
in the plan Augustine freeis : it is enclosed within walls
and on three sides planted with trees in line. At the
' Cooper, Annals, iii. p. 137 (.[uoting from Bowtell's MSS) : but Hobson alsO
owned, and perhaps lived at, the George Inn in Trunipington Street : see p. 63.
ii6 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
north-west corner of this ground Hamond shows a
building fronting LtttJiboy-ne lane and the east end of
S. Bene't's church. A smaller buildinof abuts on its
southern end and forms a wing of a small quadrangle.
The larger building appears to be that which Cole,
writing in 1746, believed to be the Refectory of the
Austin Friars. In his MSS. he has a roueh drawino; of
it, taken from a window in Corpus^ Probably these
buildings stood on the western and southern sides of
the conventual quadrangle. Lyne's plan of 1574 shows
a complete quadrangle with a front to the Pease Market.
Hamond's plan is unfortunately indistinct in this place.
Fig. 31 gives a rough indication of its principal features.
Next we shall take a survey of the area contained
between Bene't Street, LtUhborne lane, the High Street
and the part of Doive dyers lane which is now called
Pembroke Street. At the corner of the two first-named
streets stands 5". Benets chirck, the graveyard of which
on its northern and eastern sides is enclosed by a wall
and entered through a porch capped by a pentice roof.
This porch served also as the outer gate of Corpus which
originally could only be approached through the church-
yard. Without any attempt to distinguish the Saxon
features of the church Hamond shows the tower, capped
by a steeple and cross, the nave, the south aisle and
south porch. Adjoining the aisle we see the gallery
connecting it with Corpus and the arched passage below
it. At the south-east corner of the churchyard, next to
Corpus, is a stile, by which the church could be ap-
proached from Luthborne Lane. Prior to 1579 the part
of the gallery which adjoins the chancel contained two
chapels, on the ground and upper floor respectively,
^ Arch. Hist. iii. p. 130 (fig. i) and pp. 150, 151.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 117
which belono-ed to the Colleoe. That on the s^round
floor had a door which opened on the chancel.
Corpus Xp~i col/egc\ as ah-eady mentioned, was
entered from Bene't Street through the churchyard: but
in 1500 a small piece of ground, separated from the
churchyard by a wall, was ceded by the parish to the
College as a passage to its inner gate. The building in
three storeys, seen at the south-west corner of the church-
yard, was the Rectory house, which had been purchased
and converted into college chambers in 157S". The
new Hall, erected in 1S23, has taken the place of the
Kitchen, Buttery and Library of Hamond's day: other-
wise the quadrangle shown by him has seen little
structural alteration since 1592. In the southern range
two tall chimneys rise above the roof of the Master's
Lodge. Beyond the Lodge we see two windows of the
Hall, and another chimney, near the western end of the
range, marks the position of the Kitchen. South of the
Old Court, and abutting on its southern range between
the Hall and the Lodge, we remark the ^Master's gallery.
Between it and Luthborne lane is the Master's garden.
At the end of the gallery and opposite the Hall is the
Chapel, showing an eastern window and three windows
in the southern wall. The Chapel was newly built in
Hamond's time (1579 — 84). Near the western end of
the Chapel a chimney distinguishes the Pensionary,
which had once been a tennis court. Hamond repre-
sents it as overlapping at its eastern end the northern
wall of the Chapel. The court contained on three sides
by the Hall, the Master's gallery, and the Chapel and
* Figure 3 in the Arch. Hist. i. p. 247, being drawn from the blurred copy of
Hamond's plan, is so defective that it seems unnecessary to reproduce it in the
text above.
^ ArcJi. Hist. i. p. -249.
ii8 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
Pensionary is divided into three parts by walls runnino-
north and south : it was entirely swept away when the
New Court was built (1S23— 27). The tree-planted
ground between the Chapel and S. Botolph's Lane was
the Fellows'garden'. Next the churchyard of S. Botolph
is the Tennis court, entered from the north.
Between the Pensionary and the High Street stood
S. Bernard's Hostel. This Hostel was acquired from
Queens' College by Corpus in 1534', and was converted
into an inn, called the Dolphin, distinct, of course, from
the inn so named in Bridge Street. Hamond shows a
quadrangle enclosed by buildings on all its sides in this
position. Part of the northern building seems to be a
Hall with a screens passage leading to a small second
court on its northern side^
The tower of 5. Botolplis church is represented by
Hamond as standing entirely within the churchyard and
not abutting, as it now does, on the street. The other
parts of this church that are shown are the south porch
and aisle, the roof and clerestory of the nave and the
chancel with a window above the chancel arch.
On the southern side of the churchyard is Peyiie
farthmg lane, now S. Botolph's Lane, which is parted
from Dozve dyers lane by a narrow strip of houses. Next
the High Street, where the strip is broadest, the plan
has a small quadrangle and a garden behind it arranged
^ Caius, in his Annals (ed. Venn, p. 5), says that the orchard, or Fellows' garden,
occupied the site of the original Gonvile Hall, or Hall of the Annunciation, and
that the ancient wails surrounding the Hall remained in his time, with two "ates
opening, one into Luthborne Lane, the other into the churchyard of S. Botolph.
The gates do not appear in Hamond's plan.
^ Stokes, History of Corpus Ckristi College, p. 8.
3 Caius in his History (ed. 1574, p. 47) says that Bernard Hostel "on its
eastern side adjoined Corpus Christi College." Fuller is mistaken in writing that
"it was situate where now the Master's garden of Benet College."
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 119
in symmetrical flower beds. A small building with a
rather large window in its southern face projects into
the quadrangle near its north-western corner: it looks
like a miniature Hall. In Lyne's plan the buildings on
this site are labelled Buitolph Ostell. According to
Dr Caius this hostel lay between Pembroke College
and S. Botolph's church, but on the northern side of
Penie Farthing Lane. When the hostel ceased to exist,
before 1496, it was leased by Pembroke College as a
dwelling house. Fuller says that in his time some
colleofiate character was retained in the buildins:^
Our perambulation of the town has now brought us
back to the point near which we began, the gate of
Pembroke College. Under Hamond's guidance we will
now take a survey of the eastern quarters, lying for the
most part outside the King's Ditch and consequently
beyond the limits of primitive Cambridge. We begin
with Doive dyers lane, or Pembroke Street (Sheet 6).
On the left-hand side of this lane, beyond Luthborne
Lane, we come to a triangular plot of ground, bounded
by the lane, the King's Ditch and Slaughter Lane,
which in the eighteenth century was known as the
Tainter Yard'. At its southern end Slaughter Lane
broadens into a space which in Lyne's plan is called Fare
Yard and in Loggan's The hogge Market. Further, on
the same side of the lane, there are three tenements with
buildings on them. That at the corner next Preachers'
Street was the Hanoringr Burbolt. The Bird Bolt Inn
occupied the site of the Norwich Union oflices. The
ground behind these tenements from Slaughter Lane
to S. Andrew's church is entirely occupied by closes and
gardens, and in this region Lyne pictures grazing cows.
' Arch. Hist. i. p. xxv. ^ /^/^_ jjj^ p_ j^g^
120 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
On the right-hand side of Dowe dyers lane, beyond
Pascall close, there are no houses until we come to
Preachers Shxte (S. Andrew's Street). On this side
the lane is parted by a long wall from S. Thomas lees,
here represented as undivided pasture.
Turning into Preachers Strete Csf JVarde, which in
its continuation beyond the town was called Hadstock
Way, and proceeding southwards along its western side
we have on our rioht two enclosures, the first containing
a small building near the corner of the street and a much
larger barn-like one in the middle space, the other con-
taining a variety of buildings, of which those which front
the street represent the still-existing Castle Inn, which.
Cole says, was in his time "almost the first house in
entering Cambridge from the Gog- Magog Hills." With-
in the memory of Dr Caius the site of this inn was
occupied by Rudd's Hostel. Of all the hostels then
existing it was perhaps the most ancient, for in 1284
i'. was granted by the founder of Peterhouse to S. John's
Hospital to compensate it for the loss of S. Peter's
church and the hostels adjoining it'. The site afterwards
passed to Corpus Christi College and still belongs to it.
Beyond this the wall fencing S. Thomas' Lees begins
again and continues to the margin of the plan, which is
near the entrance of Downins: Colleee.
On the opposite side of the road the plan scarcely
reaches to Parker's Piece, but shows near the maro-in
o
an expanse of open field, bounded on its northern side
by a very long wall v/hich reaches to the road v.-hich was
formerly called Hinton Way and is now represented in
this part by Parker Street and Park Side. This open
ground was part of Middle Field and in Hamond's plan
* Arch. Hist. i. p. xxviii.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 121
is apparently shown as grassland, though in a more
ancient day it had been tilled. It is now occupied by
the houses and gardens of Park Terrace, the University
Arms Hotel and the Theatre. Between this ground
and the smaller garden of Emmanuel the plan shows
two closes with houses on the street front.
Fig. 32. Emmanuel College, reduced from Hamond's Map of Cambridge, 1592.
At the edge of his plan of 1574 Lyne marks the
close of the Blacke friejs, with a few buildings on it,
where now^ the northern part of Emmanuel College
stands. Emanuel College was founded in 1584. and
Hamond shows that, eight years later, each of the two
122 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
quadrangles of which it originally consisted was com-
pleted on three sides (fig. 32). The entrance to the
Collesfe was throufjh a door set in a wall next Emmanuel
Street. At the western end of the range which fronts
this door Hamond shows the large windows of the Hall,
which has a louvre at the eastern end of its roof.
Eastward of the Hall in the same range is the Master's
Lodge. In the eastern range of the entrance court the
Chapel (now the Library) is distinguished by its windows
in the eastern wall. In the inner court we see two doors
in the Hall range, one at the screens, the other beyond
the dais end of the Hall, where a passage leads to the
entrance court. The inner court, like the other, has
ranges on three sides only and on its eastern side is
parted from Emaiinel college walkes by a wall. These
walks, which contain a large rectangular pond, are
surrounded on all sides by walls, and between them and
Emmanuel Street are the gardens of the Master and of
the Fellows, From the western ranges of the two courts
three short buildings project towards Preachers' Street,
so as to form two diminutive courts open on the side
next the street. It may be noted that of the buildings
shown by Hamond the only surviving parts are the
Kitchen, the Library and, with much alteration, the Hall.
The Kitchen was a part of the buildings of the Black
Friars,
Behind the grounds of Emmanuel College the plan
shows the open ground of Christ's Pieces, which formerly
was known as Clayhanger or Clay Angles. In Lyne's and
Loggan's plans this is represented as cornland, divided,
as usual, into selion strips, though Hamond gives no
indication of them. There are waybalks bounding it
on the north and south — now represented by Milton's
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 123
Walk and Emmanuel Road, and a third track traverses
it from the end of Emmanuel Street to Waiics lane,
now King Street. An open channel, which is the outlet
of the pond in the Emmanuel grounds, is carried along
the side of Emmanuel Road and also along the side of
Christ's Pieces next Walles Lane\
The street leading from Preachers' Street to Christ's
Pieces has no name in Hamond's plan, but in deeds of
his time is called "the Ouene'shighwaye leading towards
Barnwell," or "the Comon lane leading by the wall of
Black Fryers." At the two ends of the street on its
northern side houses were already built in Lyne's time,
but the intermediate part was then skirted by a fence
or wall. Where the wall stood a row of houses of uniform
height and appearance had grown up when Hamond
made his plan. They are manifestly the still-existing
row of old houses, which can thus be dated between
1574 and 1592, and it is evidence of Hamond's minute
fidelity that there is the same number of ancient windows
in their upper story (thirteen) as are shown in his picture
of them. They served as the Pensionary of Emmanuel
Colleo^e"-.
The low house at the north corner of Preachers'
Street and Emmanuel Street, showing a door and only
two windows, was leased by Emmanuel in 1586 to
Ralph Symons, the builder whose work in the Great
^ At the junction of Walles Lane and Jesus Lane the water passed under the
road through a culvert and -.vas then carried along an open ditch, which divided
the grounds of Jesus from Midsummer Common, to the river. The watercourse is
shown in Loggan's plan and it is depicted at the point where it crossed Jesus Lane
in a print of J. K. Baldrey, dated 1805.
2 Dr Stokes, in his Outside the Barmvell Gate, C.A.S. 8%-o Publications, p. 30,
says that this range was built by Ralph Symnons. Mr Shuckburgh, History of
Emmanuel College, p. 57, thinks that the house in Preachers' Street occupied by
Dr Chaderton was "a kind of dependence''' of Emmanuel College.
124 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
Court of Trinity and in the second court of S. John's
is so well known. He was in that year employed in
building Emmanuel College. Next beyond Symons' j
house, in Preachers' Street, the plan shows buildings I
arranged on four sides of a small court with a earden I
behind it. They are either the buildings of S. Nicholas' j
Hostel or they occupied its site'. This was a hostel of •
jurists, and the buildings were granted to Emmanuel in
1585, for the purpose of constructing out of it a house
for Dr Chaderton, the first Master of the Coller^e, but ,
whether on the same spot or in the College is not clear.
In any case Dr Chaderton seems to have occupied the ■
Hostel buildings before the Lodge was completed". !
The tenement adjoining the Hostel on the north was •
called the Antelope, and another, near the corner of |
Christ's Lane, was a property known as the Vine. '
Chrystes college is presented by Hamond at an angle j
of vision which does not give much idea of its appear- I
ance. The Gate Tower, the front of which, towards the 1
street, is exhibited bv Lyne with unusual reorard for de-
tail, is seen in Hamond's plan from the side of the court
and has no features to distinguish it except its corner tur-
rets. The College consists of a single quadrangle. At its
1 There was another St Nicholas' Hostel in Mill Street, which was absorbed
in King's College. Probably when it was destroyed the students removed to
Preachers' Street, as those of God's House did. In Arch. Hist. i. p. xxvii, it is
stated that the Hostel was at the corner of Emmanuel Street and St Andrew's
Street, but this is not quite accurate. The property assigned by Emmanuel ,
College to Ralph Symons, as is shown by abutments in the lease, was at the i
corner, and the abutments of St Nicholas' Hostel, as described in the convey-
ance to the College, are inconsistent with a corner position. In Lyne's plan the
hostel is not the comer house, but next to it northwards. (See Stokes, Outside tke
Bannvell Gate,'pp. ii, 22, and the interesting plan, dated 1635, of the Vine Estate
between Christ's and Emmanuel Colleges.) Mr Shuckburgh, in his History of
Emmanuel College, p. ?ii, says that the site of the Hostel is occupied by 62 and
63 St Andrew's Street.
' Arch. hist. ii. p. 693, note z.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592 125
south-east corner we see the bell-turret over the Hall,
and in the north-east corner two windows of the Chapel.
Between the court and Christ's Lane is a small garden
and next it is a kitchen court with buildings on all sides
but the west. Eastward of the court are two gardens
parted by a walled walk leading from the screens to
Chrystcs college garden, a lawn lined by trees on all sides
but the north. Beyond the garden a large orchard
reaches to Walks lane (King Street): in its north-east
corner is a tennis court. The area contained between
the College grounds, Hobson Street and King Street
is divided into a number of fields and orchards. Small
houses front the former street near the corner of King
Street and are continued along the western side of the
latter street. The King's Ditch skirts Hobson Street
on the northern side.
Opposite the end of Christ's Lane and next S.
Andrew's churchyard the plan shows buildings ranged
about a court, WMth a yard behind it reaching to the
King's Ditch. Here was the inn called the Brazen
George, which was acquired by Christ's College, and
about the year 1636 was used by the College to house
an overflow of its students^ The modern Alexandra
Street seems to represent the inn-yard.
Beyond Barnwell Gate both sides of Sidney Street
are occupied by continuous rows of houses. Those on
the eastern side have courts reachino- to the Kine's
Ditch. The Ditch passes under the end of Sussex Street
and reappears in the grounds now occupied by Sidney
Sussex College, through which it passes to Jesus Lane.
^ History of Christ's Colh-^e (Peile), p. 42. Fuller (ed. Prickett and Wright,
p. 59) is mi.-itaken in identifying; St Nicholas' Hostel with the Brazen George. See
Stokes, Outside the Bamiucll Gate, p. i\.
126 PLAN BY JOHN DIAMOND, 1592
Opposite the east end of Trinity church Hamond shows
buildings surrounding a four-sided court, with another
court of three sides next to it eastwards. In this
position Lyne marks Trinity Hostel, a jurists' hostel
which was occupied by scholars until 1540.
The building of Sidney Sussex College did not begin
until 1595, and in 159^, when Hamond'splan was made,
the site was the property of Trinity, to which college
the buildings and grounds of the Franciscans, or Grey
Friars, were granted after the Dissolution. The accounts
of the bursars of Trinity College show that enormous
quantities of materials from "the Friars" were employed
in the building of the Great Court during the years
1547-57.
The precincts of the Gray freer s in Hamond's
plan (fig. 33) are surrounded by walls on all sides.
The few buildings contained in them are next Sussex
Street and Sidney Street. The remaining space is open
pasture or orchard ground. At the south-west corner
are some cottages, or offices, which extend in one
direction along Sussex Street and in another for about
170 feet along Sidney Street. These buildings form
two sides of an irregular court, the eastern end of which
is filled by a dwelling-house, which has a wing projecting
eastwards, and overlooks a small garden. The northern
side of the court is principally occupied by a more im-
portant-looking building, which in its southern wall
shows a door and windows in two storeys : there is also
a single large window in its eastern gable. It lies out-
side the present precincts of the College, and it is not
known what uses it served in the conventual house.
From the eastern end of this buildine another buildine
extends northwards, parallel with Sidney Street. This
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND. 1592 127
seems to have been the Refectory of the Franciscans.
It was the only part of the conventual buildings which
was incorporated in the College and it was convertL-d
into a Chapel. This Chapel was destroyed in 1776.
The Chapel then erected in its place occupies a position
Fig. 33. Site of the Grey Friars, reduced from Hamond^s Map of Cambridge, 1592.
slightly different from the old one. From the north-
eastern end of this building a high battlemented wall
extends northwards, parting two gardens from the open
ground on the east. Between the gardens is a long
128 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
building reaching to Sidney Street. To the northern
garden there is a gate of entrance in the wall next the
street. Near the north-western end of the same wall
there is a similar gate giving admission to a close which
does not quite reach as far as the corner of Jesus Lane.
It is unlikely that any of these buildings survive in the
existing College\
There is no very noteworthy feature in the houses
oi Bridge Sir etc between the end of Jesus Lane and the
road junction at S. Sepulchre's church. The second
house on the eastern side of the street in the plan was
the Hoop Inn, which was destroyed in 191 2. It has a
large yard with a back gate opening on Jesus Lane:
a gate and passage still exist in this position.
In JJiesus lane we find scattered houses facing the
Grey Friars' wall. Park Street, or Garlick Fair Lane,
as it was formerly called, did not exist in 1592. In its
place we see the King's Ditch, here crossed by numerous
foot-bridges. Further down Jesus Lane, and nearly
opposite Jesus College, we come to a row of small
cottages, apparently those which stood at the western
end of All Saints' church and were removed in 1898 to
make room for the Clergy Training School. Next them
is a very large house with wings which give it the form
of an H. It is the same house — the largest single house
in his plan — which Lyne shows. It was the Radegund
Manor House, belonging to Jesus College, which was
built about 1555 and destroyed in 183 1".
Jhcs2(s college (Sheet 5) is shown in wide, open
grounds, the eastern part of which, marked in the plan as
* Arch. Hist. ii. pp. 726 — 730.
^ The Manor House is pictured in The Priory of Saint Radegund, Catnbridge
(Gray), opposite p. 48.
PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND. 1592 129
Jhestis college iihilkes and g7'oncs, is bounded on the north
and west by wide belts of trees, and on the east side by
the already mentioned ditch coming from Christ's Pieces.
On its north side the grove is parted from the Common,
as at present, by a ditch which branches from the King's
Ditch at the point where Park Street turns from a
northerly to an easterly direction. The walks are
divided by walls from the ground occupied by the
Collesfe buildinofs.
The gate-tower, the drawing of which is blurred in
the plan, is approached from Jesus Lane, as at present,
by a long passage between walls. On the western side
of the passage is the Fellows' Garden, a narrow strip
of the same width as the College range which stands
west of the gate-tower. A similar narrow strip on the
other side of the passage is the Master's garden, of the
same width as the south front of the Lodore: in
Hamond's time the Lodge did not extend into the
southern range of the cloister court. The plan shows
the whole of the southern front of the College, ending
in the Chapel, which has a large eastern window in place
of the present triplet of lancets, which were substituted
for it in 1S47. ^ he tower is surmounted by a vane. In
the walls of the cloister walks Hamond, no doubt in-
accurately, puts a large number of small and narrow
openings instead of the square windows which are shown
in Loggan's print. The eastern gable of the Hall roof
shows above the eastern rancre. This rancre extends
o o
northwards for a short distance beyond the Hall and
the western range is similarly prolonged by a building
which contained the Kitchen. Between the prolonga-
tions is the Kitchen court. There is no rancre on the
northern side of the entrance court: the ranee in this
o
H. 0
130 PLAN BY JOHN HAMOND, 1592
position was put up between 1638 and 1641. In the
plan there is a small building where the western part of
this range now stands. Behind it is the Cook's garden,
which is not arranged in the formal plan shown in
Loggan's print.
In the houses fronting the part of IValles Lane
which is roughly parallel with Jesus Lane nothing is
clearly distinguishable in the plan. Three almshouses,
nearly facing the end of the present Malcolm Street,
were the property of Matthew Stokys, Registrary of the
University from 1558 to 1591, and by his will, dated
1590, were conveyed, with other messuages, to the
University, with the condition that they should be
maintained as University almshouses for six "sole
women." They were removed in iS6i\
Beyond the college grounds Jesus Lane changes its
name to Baj-newell cawsey. Here we come out on open,
houseless land. The village of Barnwell is not included
in the plan. In the broad part of the road, opposite
Midsummer Common, Hamond marks a rectangular
area. About here the cattle market was held".
* C.A.S. Proc. and Cot/irn. xii. pp. 144 — 247. ,
' Cooper, An f mis, ii. p. 347.
IV
PLAN OF 1634
FROM THOMAS FULLER'S
HISTORY OF THE UNIVERSITY
This bird's-eye view, which at the top is inscribed
CANTAB RIGI A qiialis extitit A 71710 Dni 1634, is
prefixed to most copies of Thomas Fuller's History of
the Ufiiversify of Cambridge since the Cojiqiiest. This
book was first printed in 1655 : in the text Fuller speaks
of "this present year 1655." The view, therefore, was
not drawn with the design of illustrating the History,
nor does it appear by whom or with what purpose it
was made. According to his own statement Fuller was
resident at Cambridge for seventeen years. As he was
admitted at Queens' College in 1621 this would imply
that he left the University in 1 638 : but he held a Dorset-
shire living from 1634. In the right-hand bottom corner
is the shield of Baptist Noel, third viscount Camden
(161 1 — 82), who is described on a scroll beneath it as
the Maecenas of " T.F.," no doubt the author. In the
right-hand top corner is a table enclosed in an ornamental
border and containing a list of colleges, churches and
other buildings corresponding to capital letters and
Roman numerals which mark their situations in the
view. In the view itself only the names Bridgc^'Strcete
and TrHmpingto7i'-Styeete occur. As in the case of
Lyne's and Hamond's plans the town is supposed to be
viewed from the south. There is no scale of measurement.
132 PLAN OF 1634
As evidence of the appearance of the town and its
principal buildings Fuller's view has little merit. It
has neither the fidelity nor the minute delineation of
Hamond's plan. It is somewhat smaller than Lyne's
plan (13^ by io\ inches) which in some respects it re-
sembles: but it has none of the varied, if imaginative,
picturesqucness of Lyne's presentation of the town.
Excepting Trinity and S. John's Colleges, King's
College Chapel and a few of the churches there is hardly
an attempt to represent the actual appearance of
buildings: and all individuality is lost in the formal rows
of houses, each like its neighbour and each presenting
a gable end to the street, which are shown in the main
thoroughfares. In college ranges which run north and
south no details are shown: consequently College Halls
are omitted and all eastern Gate-towers.
The only importance of Fuller's view is its repre-
sentation of the changes effected since the date of
Hamond's plan (1592). The following may be noted in
University buildings : the date given is in each case that
of the completion of the work.
At Peterhouse the southern (1595) and the northern
(1632) ranges are continued as far as the street, and
the old hostels which occupied the site of part of the
extensions are removed. The plan shows the Chapel
(1632) but does not indicate the cloisters at its western
end (1633). The College is entered from Trumpington
Street by a single door placed in a wall under a pentice
covering.
At Pembroke Hall the western portion of the north
range of the second court is shown : it was probably
built at the beginning of the reign of Charles l\
1 j4rc/i. Hist. i. 145.
''■" PLAN OF 1634 133
At Queens' Collec^e the view does not show the
range in Walnut Tree Court, completed in 16 19. A
covered bridge connects the second court with the west
bank of the river: there is no record of the date of its
construction.
At King's College the view shows the stone bridge,
built in 1627, the first college bridge of stone : it actually
had two arches, but the view shows three.
The rebuilding of Clare Hall began in 1635 : the
buildings shown in the view are the old ones.
At Caius College there is a suggestion of the Perse
(16 1 7) and Legge (1619) buildings, but the whole plan
of the College is hopelessly inaccurate.
At Trinity College the Great Court, which was drawn
by Hamond in its transitional stage, is represented in
the quadrangular arrangement given to it by Nevile,
with the Queen's (1597) and King Edward's (1600)
Towers in their present positions. The fountain
{160 1 — 2) is marked. The southern wall of the Chapel
is represented as containing an upper and lower tier of
windows. The eastern part of the north and south
ranges of Nevile's court (completed in 1614) is repre-
sented with a cloister beneath : a wall closes the court
on the western side. The ditch forminof the eastern
boundary of Garret Hostel Green is filled up (1605 — 6).
The bridge crossing the river has been constructed
(161 1 — 2), and a walk lined with trees leads from it
westwards across what are now the Paddocks. Next
the bridge, on the eastern bank, the tennis court (161 1)
is shown.
At S. John's College the second court is shown
complete on all its sides (1602). Of the third court the
Library range (1624) is seen, much out of its true posi-
134 PLAN OF 1634
tion. On the western bank of the river, next the ditch
dividing S. John's Meadow from the Trinity Paddocks,
is a tennis court (1602 — 3).
At Corpus Christi College the only novelty since
Hamond's plan is a lane separating the college from
S. Botolph's churchyard. It led to S. Botolph's parish
workhouse and was called Workhouse Lane.
Sidney Sussex College (founded in 1594) had no
existence when Hamond drew his plan. Fuller's plan
represents two courts as complete, each with an entrance
door next the street. There are no noticeable features
in the buildings.
Fuller's representation of Emmanuel College is
purely grotesque. Here and at Jesus, Christ's, Magda-
lene, Trinity Hall and St Catharine's there were no
changes in the buildings between 1592 and 1634. A
noticeable feature in the s^rounds of Magrdalene College
is the watercourse anciently known as Cambrigge, which
i; marked as a narrow channel at the foot of the bank
in the College garden : a broader channel connects it
with the river, which it joins opposite the outlet of the
King's Ditch on the southern bank. Neither Hamond
nor Lyne shows this watercourse, though the latter
marks the grating where it passed under Magdalene
Street'.
Among features in the town the following are shown
in Fuller's view.
The Grammar School of Dr Perse in Free School
Lane and his almshouses fronting the King's Ditch in
Pembroke Lane: both were founded in 161 5. The
^ A deed of 1 596 shows that the watercourse, styled therein k Kynges Ditche,
was then in existence on the northern side of Magdalene College. Arch. Hist, ii.
P- 355.
PLAN OF 1634 .. 135
representation of the almshouses as a three-sided court
is purely fanciful.
A conduit marked in the Market Place: it was built
in 1614 at the charges of the Town and University.
Hobson's Workhouse, established in 162S, a notice-
able building at the verge of the plan, on the western
side of St Andrew's Street.
The channel in Trumpington Street, made in 1610
for bringing water from the Nine Wells at Shelford to
cleanse the King's Ditch. In Loggan's plan (1688), as
in Fuller's, it does not skirt the road, but divides it into
two unequal parts of which the eastern and narrower
was appropriated to foot passengers. The King's
Ditch, which it joins at the end of Mill Lane, crosses
Trumpington Street as an open channel, without any-
thing of the nature of a bridge or culvert\
^ For the origin of the scheme for scouring the King's Ditch with the water
from Shelford, see pp. 2, 3. "The plan was Edward Wright's, who was M.A. of
Caius College and the best mathematician of his day : he also gave Sir Hufh
Myddclton the plan of his New River," Cambridge Portfolio, p. 312. In Loe-^an's
view of Pembroke College the channel is boarded on the side next the College and
the foot-way is higher than the carriage-way. Gunning, Reminiscences, i. p. 293,
gives an account of the inconvenience .and accidents resulting from the channel in
its old position. The present double channel, next the kerb on either side, was
made about 1794.
V
PLAN OF DAVID LOGGAN DATED 1688
For the life and work of David Loggan whose plan of
Cambridcre has next to be described the reader is re-
ferred to Mr J. W. Clark's Introduction to the Archi-
tectural History of the University of Cambridge (vol. i.
pp. cvii — cxiv)\ and to the Reproductio7i of Loggan s
Plans, edited ivith a Life of Loggan, Introdiiction and
Historical and descriptive notes by J. W. Clark (1905).
The work in which the plan is contained was pub-
lished in 1690 and is entitled:
" CANTABRIGIA ILLUSTRATA, sive Om-
nium Celeberrimae istius Universitatis Collegiorum,
Aularum, Bibliothecae Academicae, Scholarum Publi-
carum, Sacelli Coll: Regalis, necnon Totius Oppidi
Ichnographia, Deliniatore et Sculptore Dav: Loggan
Utriusque Academiae Calcographo. Ouam Proprijs
Sumptibus Typis Mandavit et Impressit Cantabrigiae."
Of the plan Mr Clark writes:
" The plan of Cambridge which forms part of
Loggan's Cantabrigia Ilhistrata is lettered : N'O VA ET
ACCURATA CELEBERRhMAE UNIVERSI-
TATIS OPPIDI QUE CANTABRIGIENSIS
ICHNOGRAPHIA. AN"". 1688. In the left lower
corner are the words: Dav. Loggan Delin. et Sculp.
' Mr Clark's article on David Loggan in the Dictionary of National Bioip-aphy
adds some useful facts and in particular cites evidence for fixing the dates when
some of the views of Cambridge colleges were drawn. The earliest to which a
date can be assigned seems to be that of Catharine Hall, in 1676, the latest that of
Magdalene College, in i6S3.
PLAN OF D. LOGGAN, r688 137
cu7n Privil. S.R.M. 1688. It is dedicated to Francis
Turner, D.D., Master of S. John's College (1670 — 79)
and Bishop of Ely (1684 — 91), in an inscription which
states that the plan had been begun when he was Vice-
Chancellor, and finished when he was Bishop. As Dr
Turner was Vice-Chancellor 1678 — 9, Loggan must
have been engaged for ten years in the preparation of it.
It is an original survey, 15J inches high, by 2oi- inches
wide, on a scale of about 300 feet to one inch. Though
the scale is small, it is so accurately drawn, and so clearly
engraved, as to be of the greatest service in determining
the changes which had been effected in the interval of
nearly a century which had elapsed since Hamond's plan
was drawn."
The plan is preceded in the volume by a plate con-
taining two Prospects of Cambridge, the one taken from
the east, the other from the west. The point of view
in either case is too distant from the town to allow of
more than a panoramic eflect in which prominent
buildingrs are exhibited in relief. But the foreground
of either Prospect gives a lively picture of rural life in
suburban Cambridge.
Of the views of University and College buildings
contained in Loggan's book it is superfluous to speak.
For the discussion of them the reader is referred to the
Archifectural History, passim. Here no further mention
need be made of them than such as is needed to explain
details in the plan.
In the century between the date of Hamond's plan
(1592) and that of Loggan (16SS) the population of the
town had only slightly increased. In 1587 the number
of inhabitants "out of the colleges" was stated to be
4990, and even as late as 1749 it had only increased
138 PLAN OF D. LOGGAN, i6SS
to 6131. The number of houses in the latter year
was i636\ The number of University residents had
probably declined'. Little was done during the century
ending 16SS in extending the domestic buildings of the
colleges, and such growth as there was in the housing
of the townsfolk was purely intensive. Some of the
open spaces in the more central parts of the town were
built upon, but the common fields surrounding the old
house area remained unoccupied, and no new suburbs
grew up along the main roads leading out of the town.
A striking picture of the essentially agricultural
character of large tracts which are now covered with
the streets and houses of the town is furnished by the
two engraved Prospects of Cambridge, mentioned above.
That which exhibits the town from the east is taken
from the neighbourhood of Christ's Pieces, In the fore-
ground it shows a bare tract of arable land on which a
shepherd sits, with his dog, in charge of a flock which
grazes on the balks and stubble : three horsemen and a
pedestrian, with two greyhounds, are returning from the
hunt and are carrying home hares : other horsemen
traverse a road which divides the field. The Prospect
from the west is taken from near S. John's College
Cricket Field. The nearer foreground is a field, where
a man is reaping corn with a sickle: as it is cut it is
fastened in shocks by men and women and loaded on a
waggon : a carter with a waggon drawn by two horses
carries off a load along a field road. Beyond this road the
corn is still high and tv/o reapers are engaged in cutting it.
If, as in the tours round the town which we have
^ Cooper, Annals, ii. p. 435 and iv. p. ■274.
^ 7^he University of Camhriuge (Epochs of Church History), by J. Bass
MuUinger, p. 166: see also the interesting chart, representing the number of B.A.
degrees conferred, at the end of the book.
PLAN OF D. LOGGAN, 1688 139
taken under the guidance of Lyne and Hamond, we
begin with Loggan's plan where the Cojiduii /itads\.2inds
I at the junction of Lensfield Road with the TrumDin2:;ton
I Road, the rural character of Cambridge, outside its old
! bounds, at once declares itself. On our rig-ht is the
j t>
modern Lensfield Road, un-named by Loggan but once
called Deepway, which parted the inhabited town from
j the open field, called Fordfield. On either hand it is
I bordered by ditches and a double row of trees\ Neither
I along this road nor along the Hills Road where Parker s
j Peice fronts it is there any sign of habitation. Between
! Spittle ho2ise end and Pembroke College a continuous
row of houses occupies the eastern side of Triimpington
Street, including the Canons' Close which in Hamond's
i time was a bare field. But behind the Spittle house and
t reaching to St Andreivs Street is an expanse of open
I ground marked as The Alarsh. At the south-east corner
i of it is a square plot of arable land : but the Marsh, which
I in Hamond's plan is shown in furlong strips, was evi-
j dently pasture in 1 6SS: and so it remained until Downing
! College was created and the townsmen's lammas riq^hts
' were extinguished. The Lease, otherwise known as
j S. Thomas' Leys, in Loggan's plan does not occupy the
I whole area assigned to it by Hamond. A portion of it
j is enclosed as Peuibroke peice", and on the south side of
\ this is a square plot surrounded by trees. The narrow
' lane which bounded the inner court of Pembroke Colleo-e
; *--'
; ^ A branch of the New River, as the Tnimpington cunduit was called, was
• made from Sfittlc house <r//^ early in the 17th century. It supplied the runnels in
; S. Andrew's Street and the baths of Emmanuel and Christ's, and was the work of
■ "Mr Frost, Manciple of Emmanuel College." Atkinson-Clark, Cavtbridge De-
'\ scribed, p. 69, note.
' ^ Though Loggan calls this plot Pembroke peice it belonged to Peterhouse and
, was acquired by rembroke College in separate parcels in JS54 and 1861; Arch.
■ Hist. i. pp. 127 — 128.
140 PLAN OF D. LOGGAN, i6S8
on its east side, and in Hamond's day gave access to
St Thomas' Leys from Pembroke Street, was closed in
1620, and in place of it a new passage was made in
1688, which is the present Tennis Court Road'.
The water-channel in Trumpington Street is repre-
sented, as in Fuller's plan, as dividing the street into
two unequal parts, of which the broader is on the western
side and served as the carriage way. Opposite the site
of the Fitzwilliam ?^Iuseum it is lined by a row of trees
growing in the middle of the road. Between the Lodge
of the Masterof PeterhouseandtheChapel of Pembroke
Colleore a branch of it runs east to the Fellows' garden
where it supplies a " waterwork " and bath, and then,
turning at a right angle continues under the north and
south ranges of the inner court and thence across Pem-
broke Street into the King's Ditch. At the point of
juncture the King's Ditch appears as an open water-
course and so continues past The hogge Market (the old
Corn Exchange) along Tibbs Row and the west side
of S. Andrew's church. Along Walls Lane (Hobson
Street) its course is not shown in the plan. As it is here
marked as an open channel in Fuller's plan we may
perhaps conclude that this part of it was covered in at
some time between 1634 and 168S. From its entrance
into Sidney Coll. Close to its outlet in the river it remained
in Loggan's time an open watercourse.
At Pembroke College the chief alterations shown in
the plan are Wren's chapel, built in 1663 — 5, and the
eastward extensions of the north and south ranges of
the inner court, carried out in 1659 and 1670.
On the opposite side of Trumpington Street there
' In Logman's plan the road only extends half-way to LensfieM Road. The
tennis court which gave its name to it was in tlie grounds of Pembroke College,
near the bowling green, and is marked 39 in the plan.
PLAN OF D. LOGGAN, 1688 141
is nothing in the plan which calls for remark until we
reach the street which Lo";2:an calls Queens Coll. Lane,
now Silver Street. Queens' College in his plan presents
the same general appearance as it did in Hamond's day :
but Catharine Hall had been almost completely rebuilt
since the date of Fuller's plan. The two small courts
shown in Hamond's plan have disappeared, and in place
of them Loggan shows a single large court of four sides,
the western range of which extends for some distance
beyond the court northwards. This extension, forming
one side of what was called Dr Gostlin's court, was
erected between 1634 and 1636. Next it was a passage,
beloncrino^ to the Black Bull Inn, which reached from
Trumpington Street to Queens' Lane. Of the buildings
indicated by Loggan in the principal court the Hall and
Butteries were finished in 1675, the Master's Lodge in
1676 and the western range, containing a Gate fronting
Queens' Lane, in 1679. The Chapel and the Ramsden
building facing it are set down in Loggan's plan, and
both are shown in his view of the College (date 1676):
but these parts were not built until the next century.
In the view the eastern range is represented as of the
same character as the other ranges of the court but as
containing two storeys only and including a Gate of
Entrance from Trumpington Street. This was an im-
portant feature, and it was evidently contemplated that
it should be seen from Trumpington Street and serve
as the principal entrance to the College. In Loggan's
plan a row of houses intervenes between it and the street :
they were pulled down in 1 754, when there was a design
for completing this side of the quadrangle with a Library
in front\ Between Catharine Hall and King's College
^ The rebuilding of the College beg.\ii in 1674, and wa-s mainly carried out by
the exertions of Dr Eachard, who became Maiter in the following year. It is
142 PLAN OF D. LOGGAN, 1688
we note that Plott and Nuts Lane has changed its name
to King's Lane. It is still the narrow and winding street
shown in Hamond's plan, and lies to the south of the
modern King's Lane, which in its present course was
laid out in 1 87 1\ Cholles, or White Friars', Lane, which
connected Queens' Lane with the river bank, is shown,
but not named, by Loggan.
Loggan's plan gives no suggestion of change in the
appearance of King's College. But on the v/estern side
of the river the northern half of the piece of ground
called by Hamond Kynges College backe sides, and
otherwise known as Bull Close, has become Clare Hall
Meadow. The exchange by which Clare College ac-
quired it was effected in 1638.
The whole of the present court qi..JIla7'e Hall, as
shown by Loggan, v/as built after the date of Fuller's
plan. The east and south ranges and the bridge were
completed before the outbreak of the Civil War (1642).
The work was resumed in 1662, and the stonework of
the southern part of the river front was finished in 1 669.
These were all the present buildings which were in
existence in 1688. Loggan in his plan, as well as in his
view of the College, shows a quadrangle complete on
all its sides : but below the view he states that the
northern part of the west range was not finished when
the view was made, but was represented as it was in-
tended to be finished. It was actually built between
1705 and 1707. The north range, containing the Hall,
reasonable to suppose that an architect's plan of tiie whole work was in existence
when Loijgan made his view. Mr Clark in his Introduction to the Architectural
History (p. cxii) makes it clear that the view of Catharine Ilall was made in 1676,
and not about 168S, as stated under the reproduction of it in the Architectural
History. In 1676 Loggan engraved Wren's design for the Library at Trinity
College. His view of Clare Hall must also have been drawn fioni an architect's
design, since some of the buildings which he shows had not been erected at the
date of the publication of his Cantabngia Illustrata. ^ Arch. Hist. i. p. 349.
PLAN OF D. LOGGAN, 1688 143
Kitchen and Butteries, was erected between 16S3 and
1693.
Go7ievill and Cajus College, the representation of
which in Fuller's plan is fantastic, had been increased
since Hamond's time by the addition of the Perse
(161 7) and Legge (1619) buildings. The Gate of
Virtue is approached from Trinity Street by an
avenue lined with trees. The piece of ground south of
the avenue is occupied, as in 1592, by dwelling-houses,
and the site was not acquired by the College until i 782.
At Trinity Colledge the Great Court appears in the
plan in the arrangement given to it by Nevile and
practically unchanged at the present day. Noticeable
in both the plan and view of the College is the small
four-sided court between King Edward's Tower and
the lane which divides Trinity from S. John's College,
Fuller's plan gives no indication of it. This was sub-
stantially the original court of King's Hall and Loggan
in his view styles it Hospitiwn Regis. The east and
north sides of it were pulled down in 1694, being then
described as ruinous. Between the still existing western
range of this court and the river Loggan marks the
Bowling Green, which was laid out in 1646. Nevile's
Court, which was incomplete when F'uller's plan was
made, is shown with the extensions of the north and
south ranges, erected between 1676 and 16S1, and the
Library, which was in building at the same time.
Bishop's Hostel, built in 1671, is shown by Loggan in
the situation occupied in Hamond's time by the two
hostels once known as Ovyng's Inn and Garret Hostel.
There was no entrance to Bishop's Hostel from Trinity
Hall Lane, and the gate, called Nevile's Gate, which
now fronts the lane, stood in 16SS at the western end
144 PLAN OF D. LOGGAN, 1688
of the avenue in the Paddocks\ Westward of Bishop's
Hostel various college offices form an irregfular court.
Between it and the river Looroan shows a rectano-ular
00 o
plot, bounded on its northern side by an avenue of trees
continuing that which is in the Paddocks.
At St Johns Colledge Loggan shows the third court
completed on its southern and western sides, the latter
range extending beyond the court as far as the bridge:
this work was carried out between 1669 and 1671, The
bridge shown in the plan and in the view is the wooden
bridge which is shown in Hamond's plan": it was re-
moved in 1696, when the present bridge of stone was
begun. Beyond the river St Johns Coll. Meadoiu has
much the same appearance as is given to it by Hamond :
but the six ponds shown by Hamond in the ground
marked by Loggan as St Johns fish ponds have be-
come seventeen in Loggan's plan and nineteen in his
view. Next the outlet of the Binn Brook there is a
building of some size, which appears to have been let
as a warehouse. The Meadow is surrounded on all sides
by watercourses, but that which bounds it on the west
is not, at least on the surface, continuous with the ditch
which parts T^-inity Coll. Meadoiv from the common
ground of the Town which Loggan calls Trinity Coll.
Peice. The narrow strip of ground which lies betv/een
this Trinity ditch and St Johns Walkes (now the Wilder-
ness) at the date of Loggan's plan belonged to the
Town^ The Bowling Green on the northern side of
the Walks was made in 16 10 — 1 1.
^ Arch. Hist. ii. pp. 643, 644. The iron gates at the end of the avenue were
brought from Horseheath in 1733. 2 Jhid. ii, p. 276 and fig. 12.
'^ On the S. John's and Trinity College ditches and their relation to the river
Cam see C.A.S. Proc. and Comm. ix. p. 76, On the Watercourse called Cambridge,
by Arthur Gray.
PLAN OF D. LOGGAN, 1688 145
Here it may be remarked that all along the western
side of the river the arable land is seen to extend as far
as the road at the Backs of the Colleofes. The Binn
Brook crosses the road as an open stream. From the
Binn Brook northwards, along the Madingley Road and
on the slope towards the Castle, all the open ground is
pasture, as it was in Hamond's time.
Nothing calls for remark in the dwelling-houses in
Bridge Street or in the parts of the town which lie north
of the river. At the Castle we notice that the Gatehouse
is marked as The Prison. According to the writers of
Le Keux's Memorials of CaDilwidgx (1842) it continued
to be used as the County jail "until, very recently, the
modern building was erected\" Custance in his plan of
1 798 places the County Bridewell on the site of a large
building which figures in Loggan's plan near the northern
ramparts of the Castle. A building which Loggan marks
on the eastern side of the Castle enclosure was the
Shire Ho7ise. Like the County prison it was contained
in Chesterton parish and was therefore outside the
borough limits-. The gallows on the lower slope of the
Castle mound is shown and is conspicuous in Loggan's
Prospect of Cambridge from the east. Outside the
Castle bounds there is a wide stretch of arable held
reaching along the Huntingdon Road in one direction
and towards Chesterton in another.
Returning towards the centre of the town and taking
the eastern side of the High Street we notice that
Green Street has come into existence and that houses
^ A woodcut, taken in iS'37, in the MeinoriaiS of Cambridge, vol. ii. shows the
Gatehovise in a ruinous state.
2 This Shire House was destroyed in i 747 when a new Shire House was erected
above the shambles in the Market Place. (Car/:5riJi;e Discnbcd and Illustrated
by Clark and Atkinson, p. 89.)
H. 10
146 PLAN OF D. LOGGAN, 1688
are closely packed on either side of it, where Hamond
marks a large square of unoccupied ground. It took its
name from Oliver Green, M.D., of Caius College, and
the Annalist of that college, writing of the year 16 14,
states that the street had been then recently built on
his estate'. A yard, opening from it, which now gives
access to the rear of the premises of Messrs Macintosh
in Market Hill, was the back entrance to the Angel Inn.
In The Chief Market and in front of The Toimi
HallX.yNO rectangles marked with dotted lines represent
the shambles. x\bove them a new Sessions House,
supported on pillars, was erected in i 747 and the open
space of the Market was thereby reduced'. Near this
Loggan places The Town Prison. The Market conduit
and cross are both indicated. The conduit, supplied
with water from the New River brought from Shelford
Nine Wells, was made in 1614. The cross was not the
old structure shown by Hamond, but a new one, put up
in 1664 and described as an Ionic pillar surmounted by
a gilt orb and cross: it was destroyed in 17861
In St Bennett's street, nearly opposite the door of
the church, Loggan marks The Post house. This was
the Eagle and Child Inn (now the Eagle Hotel). The
original Post-house seems to have been the Devil's
Tavern, which occupied part of the site of the Senate
House: the first London coach ran from it in 1653'.
Loggan's plan shows no noteworthy change at
Corpus College or in the open grounds which had once
» Venn, Ajinals of GonvilU and Caius CoNe^e {C.A.S. 8vo. Publications, 1904),
P- '34-
2 Cambridge Described and Illustrated, pp. 89, 90. The shambles were removed
from under the Town Hall about 1S35.
3 Ibid. p. 67.
* The Cavibridge Portfolio, p. 203.
PLAN OF D. LOGGAN, 1688 147
belonged to the Augustinian PViars and were afterwards
to become the Old Botanical Garden.
Approaching the town from the side of Parkers
Peice the new features shown in the plan at Eniaimel
College are the Brick Building (1632 — 4), the Chapel
and Cloister (166S — ^^) and the Bath in the Fellows'
Garden. The last was in existence in 161 2. It was
supplied with water from the Conduit-head, which was
brought in an open channel along the present Lensfield
Road and S. Andrew's Street, and thence carried
through the garden at the south-west end of the College
and by a vault under the Brick Building'. It might
appear from the plan that the main entrance to the
College was from S. Andrew's Street, but the view
shows that the College was parted from the street by
a wall in which there is only a small door, opening on
the little Bungay court at the north-west corner of the
College. The principal entrance was still in Emmanuel
Lane.
At Christ Colledge the Fellows' Building, finished in
1642, is shown. Loggan's plan represents the street
front of the principal court as reaching to Christs Coll.
Lmie. In his view the southern end of this range is
shown as a low building, external to the court and lighted
by a single window placed under the eaves : its site is
now occupied by an extension of the Library. Projectino-
eastward from the Kitchen are two parallel buildings,
of which one borders on Christ's Lane: they appear to
have been timber structures, put up about the year 161 3
and sometimes called Rats' Hall". In the Fellows'
Garden Loggan marks a Tennis Court and Bowling
Green, the latter of which is first mentioned in 16S6.
^ Arch. Hist. ii. p. 696. "^ Ibid. p. 701.
148 PLAN OF D. LOGGAN, 1688
The Bath is not shown in the plan. Near the lane now
called Sussex Street, but formerly known as Little
Walls Lane, we recognise the large yard of the existing
inn called the True Blue, with its back entrance in
Walls Lane (Hobson Street): on its southern side the
plan of Custance (1798) marks the London Waggon
Inn. At Sidney Sussex CoUedge there is nothing in the
plan to claim attention.
At Jesus Col/edge the tree shown in the plan in the
middle of the entrance court was a walnut tree, first
mentioned in 15S9. The range on the north side of
this court was built between 1636 and 1641. On the
western side of the Fellows' Garden a Bowling Green,
first mentioned in 1 630, is shown. A watercourse derived
from the King's Ditch encloses two sides of the Cook's
garden which is shown to the north of the entrance court.
With the exception of some tenements facing the
Fellows' Garden of Jesus College the whole of the area
betwec.i the front of the College and Walls Lane
(King's Street) is occupied by the Radegund IManor
House and its grounds. Near the southern end of
Walls Lane Loggan marks a pound : it was the pound
of the eastern or Barnwell Fields.. The almshouses
which the plan shows near to this were established in
1647 by the will of Elizabeth Knight for two widows and
four maids, whence the adjoining road has derived its
name of Maids' Causeway, formerly Barnwell Causeway'.
1 The site is described in an indenture of 1648 as "that piece of waste ground
lying in a triangle at a place called Jesus Lane End, between the highway kading
from Jesus Lane towards Barnwell on the one part, and the way leading from
Walls Lane towards Barnwell on the other part, and the then lately erected breast-
work on the third part." A bank which Custance marks in the middle of Barnwell
Causeway is perhaps the remains of the breastwork. In 1657, when the Corpora-
tion leased the triangle to the executor of Elizabeth Knight, it is recorded that an
old pound had formerly stood there. Cooper, Amtals, iii. pp. 41^. 4i3-
VI
PLAN OF WILLIAM CUSTANCE, 1798
The Survey of Cambridge by William Custance needs
little description. It is styled /l Nciu Plan of the
Unive7'sity and Toivii of Canib^'idge to the Present Year,
lygS. Notes beneath the lower margin inform us that
it was surveyed by and published for William Custance,
Cambridge, May 21st, 1798, and engraved by J. Russell,
Grays' Inn Road, London. Custance was a surveyor
and builder who lived in Chesterton parish. In 1814 he
rebuilt the houses called Crossing's Place which stood
on the site of the Waterhouse building of Pembroke
Hall. His dealingfs in buildino- sites broucrht him into
frequent relations with Mr C. Pemberton, a Cambridge
solicitor, whose house, now called Grove Lodge, is
specially distinguished in the plan, and was perhaps
built by Custance.
The plan measures i/f by I3:f inches. On the left-
hand side is an ill-drawn shield of the Town arms,
granted by Robert Cooke, Clarencieux, in 1575 : and
on the opposite side the shield of the University.
The plan is chiefly interesting as illustrating the
topography of Cambridge just before the great changes
in Town and University which began in the early years
of the nineteenth century. The open fields surrounding
the town were enclosed between 1802 and 1S07. Before
that time the limits of the inhabited town-area were the
same as in the reign of Elizabeth, and with the exception
10—3
150 PLAN OF W. CUSTANCE, 1798
of the Senate House no important additions had been
made to the buildings of the University and colleges
since Loeean's views were made. The srround that was
to be occupied by Downing College w^as still The Leys,
which reached to Bird Bolt Lane (Downing Street)^
at S. John's College Rickman's buildings had not dis-
placed the old fish ponds : King's and Corpus colleges
had no fronts to the main street. Peterhouse and
Emmanuel colleo^es are on the outermost verore of the
town : on the side of Chesterton there are no houses
beyond the grounds of Magdalene, and none towards
Barnwell beyond Jesus College. Some old street names
survive, and there are several inns which have since
disappeared — the Sun opposite Trinity Gate, the Rose
tavern and the Angel in the Market, the Black Bear,
where is now Market Passage, and the Cardinal's Cap,
opposite Pembroke Hall. The Market is the old
irregularly shaped and scattered Market shown in the
plans of Lyne and Hamond : the eastern limb of it is the
Co7'n Market, the part in front of the Shire Hall is the
Garden Market, otherwise known as Green Hill, and
there is, besides, the outlying Beast Market which was
once known as the Pair Yard or Hoy' Hill.
The marks of novelty are few. Nonconformity has
erected meeting'-houses near the end of S. Andrew's
Street for the Anabaptists and Independents : the
windows of the latter were broken by an anti-Jacobin
mob in 1792. Near them, and behind Hobson's Work-
house, is the Town Jail, which was built in 1790, taking
^ Tlie Act of Parliament for extinguishing common rights on S. Thomas' Leys
and buiUling Downing College thereon was passed in iSoi. The tnsl design was
to build it on a piece of ground called Doll's Close, facing Midsummer Common,
where the houses on Maids' Causeway now stand. In the Act of liloi Tennis Court
Road was set out as a private way: it was made public in 182 1.
PLAN OF W. CUSTANCE, 1798 151
the place of the old prison adjoining the Town Hall.
The County Bridezvell was still in the Castle precincts,
but the Shire Hall, which in Loggan's plan is shown
near it, is marked by distance as facing the south end
of the Corn Market, and in front of the Town Hall: it
was built there in 1747 and removed to the Castle site
in 1842. The Post Ojjlcc was in a yard between the
Sun Inn and Sidney Street, or as it was then called,
Bridge Street : early in the nineteenth century it was
removed to Green Street. The King's Ditch is marked
throughout its course. A curiosity in the plan is a square
marked in the middle of Magdalene Street, which is
described as the Scite of the Old Bridge. It is rather to
the south of the grating which Lyne shows in his plan
as the position of Cambridge Bridge, and as it is not
marked in any of the plans after 1 5 74 it is to be presumed
that the g/: -^ing had disappeared long before the time
of Custance. His plan also marks a watercourse v/hich
begins at the south end of Fisher's Lane, reaches
Magdalene Street at a place some distance south of the
" Old Bridge," is carried down the street as far as the
gate of Magdalene College, then crosses the entrance
court to its north-east corner and passing through the
Fellows' Garden reaches Chesterton Lane. The turn-
pike gate which Custance marks at the boundary of
Chesterton parish was removed in 1S52: there were
other turnpikes at the same boundary on the roads to
Huntinedon and Cottenham.
INDEX
All Saints' church by the Castle, 15, 100
in the Jewry, 14, 107
Andrew's (S.) church, 17, 114
Angel inn, 146
(New), 71
Antelope (the), 1 2^
Augustine Friars, 10, 17, 115-6
Austin's (S.) Hostel, 65
Baker, Thomas, 2^
Barnwell Causeway, 16, 130
Gates, XXV, 17, 114
Barton Way, 59 u.
Benet College, see Corpus Christi
College
Benet's (S.) church, 9, 11 6- 17
Bernard's (S.) Hostel, 9, 118
Binn brook, 145
Black Bear inn, 109
Black Friars, 17, 121
Black Lion inn, 6^
Bolton's Place, 46
Boresheacl inn, 65
Botolph's (S.) church, irS
Hostel, 9, iiS
Bowtell, XX, xxi
Braun, G., 18
Brazen George inn, 125
Bridges: Great, 96; Small, 53; Garret
Hostel, xiv, 57
Bridge Street (or Ward), 15
Burden (Borden) Hostel, 14, loS
Butt Close, 56, 73
Butts, Dr, 71
Caius, Dr, i
Caius College, see Gonvillc and Caius
College
Cambridge watercourse, xxvi, 15, 134
Camden, Viscount, 131
Canons' Cln.se, 7-8, 43
Cantebrig, ix
Cardinal's Cap inn, 52
Carme Field, 54
Carmelites, see White Fiiars
Castle, the, xvi-xxi, xxx, 15, 102-3, 145
Castle inn, 120
Castle Street, 100
Catherine's (S.) Hall, 10,38-9,62-3, 141
Cattle Market, 130
Chalkwell, 59 w., 100 «.
;i6-8
Cheke, Peter, 1 12
Cholies Lane, Cholle^hithe, 10, 65
Christ'sCoUege, 16-7, 21,40, 124-5, 147
Clare Hall, 14, 32, 72-5, 133, 142
Clark, J. Willis, v
Clayhanger, Clayangles, 122
Clement's (S.) church, 16, 105
Hostel, 16, 105
Coe Fen Leys, 47
Conduit Head, 147
in Market, see Fountain
Street, 109 n.
Corpus Christi College, 19, 32,
Cosyn's Place, 46
Cotton Hall, 51-2
Crane, Jo!m, 108
Crouched Hostel, 84 n.
Cullicra, 17
Custance, William, 149
Devil's tavern, 146
Ditch: the King's or Town, xxii-xxvii,
xxxiii, 52, 125, 135; near Magdalene
College, xxii, xxvi, 15, 134; near
Trinity College, xv, 57, 77, 100
Dolphin inn in Bridge Street, 107 ; in
High Street, 118
Dowdivers Lane, 17, 44, 119-20
Dykes of E. Cambs., xxiii
Edward's (S.) church, 10, 1 14
Ee, the river, ix
Ely Hostel, 76
Ely (Reginald), almshouses of, 90
Emmanuel College, 42-3, 121-3, '34»
147
Emmanuel Lane, 123
Fair Yard, 17, 1 14
Findsilver Lane, 14, 85
Fisher's Lane, 58, 99
Fishponds, 58, 104, 10;, 144
Flaxhithe, 8^
Foster, J. P"., 24
Foul Lane, 81, 89
Fountain in the Marketplace, 113, 135,
146
Frosshelake Way, 54
Fuller, Thomas, 131
Gallows, 144
INDEX
153
Garret Hostel, 83
Green. 57
Lane, 72
Giles' (S.), church, 15, lor
Glomery Hall, 69
Lane, 67
God's House, 35
Gonville and Caius College, 13, 20, 35,
41-2, 47. 77-9' 133. '43
Grange Road, 59
Granta river, ix
Grantacacstir, xvi
Grantebrycge, ix
Gray Friars, 16, 1-26-8
Greencroft, 16
Green Dragon inn, 7 1
Green Street, 145-6
Gregory's (S.) Hc/stel, 84 «.
Grithowe Field, 59
Hamond, John, 27
Hare (Hore) Hill, 100
Hare, Robert, 2^
Harleston's Inn and Lane, 105
Heaine, Thomas, 23
Henney, 13, 71-2
Hermitage, 53-4
High Cross, loi
High Ward, 12
Hobson, Thomas, 114, 135
Hog ^Larket, 140
Hoop inn, 128
Hostels, list of, 4-5
Inglis Croft, 47
Jesus College, 16, 21, 39, 128
Lane, 16, 128-30, 148
John's (S.) College, 14,20,40, 58, 94-7,
Grange, 59
Hospital, 97
Lane, 96
Katherine's (S.) Hostel, 90
King's Arms, 78
King's College, 10, 20, 36, 55, 65-7,
95-S. 133
Hall, 32, 92-5, 143
Lane (King's Childer Lane),
82
Knight's almshouses, 148
Kymbalton's Lane, 105
Lambe, le, 78
Lease, the, see S. Thomas Leys
Lensfield Road, 139
Loggan, David, 136-7
London Waggon inn, 148
Long Balk, 54
Long Meadow, Long Green, 55-6
Luthborne Lane, io
Lyne, Richard, i
Magdalene College, 15, 2t, 40-1, 104
Margaret (S.): Hostel, 89; School of, 69
Market, 11, 1 10-3, [46
the Old, loi
Cross, II, 112, 146
Marsh, the, 139
Mary (S.) the Great, church of, 109-10
the Less, church of, 9, 51
Hostel of, 12, 71
Lane, 69
Michaelhouse, 30-1, 84-7
Michael's (S.) church, 108
Mighell Angell, le, 89-90
Mill, Bishop's and King's, x-xi, 52
Mortimer's, or Newnham, x-xi, 54
Lane, 52
Street, 13, 72
Millstones Hill, 88
Mortimer's Dole, 47
Muscroft (Mewscrofc), 59
New inn, 71
Nicholas' (S.) Hostel, 124
Ovyng's inn, 83
Parker, Archbishop, i, 5, 12, 68
Pascall Close, 8, 45
Paul's (S.) inn, 109
Pease Market, 11
Pembroke Hall, 8, 32, 43-6, 132, 140
Pennyfarthing Lane, 9, 118
Perne, Dr, xxvi, 2-3
Perse School and almshouses, 134-5
Peterhouse, 9, 19, 30-1, 47-5 '> '3'^
Peter's (S.) church, 15, 99
Petty Cury, 17, 114
Physwick Hostel, 89
Plott and Nuts Lane, 10, 6^, 142
Post House, 146
Pounds, 99, 148
Pound Green, 99
Preachers' Street or Ward, 17, 120
Printing House, ')3
Prison: County, 145; Town, 113, 146
Pump Lane, ii 2
Pythagoras, House of, 15, 59 w.
Queens' College, xii tr, 10, 20, 37, 55,
60-2, 133
almshouses, 63
Radegund Manor House, 128, 148
Ree, the, x
154
INDEX
Regent's Walk, 68
River, old courses of, xi-xiii
Rose tavern, 109
Round church, see S. Sepulchre's
Rudd's Hostel, 120
Ryther, Augustine, 27
Sale Piece, ro2
Scarlett, William, 108
Schools, the, 12, 2<)fi., 67-70
Streets, 12, 69-70
Scroope, Lady Ann, 47, 54
Senate House, 68
Passage, 71
Sepulchre, church of S., 16, 106-7
Shambles, the, 1 13
Sheep's Green, 53
Sherers Lane, 14, 108-9
Shire House, 145
Shoemaker Lane, 14, 108-9
Siberch (Sibert), John, 78 ^
Sidney Sussex College, 126-8, X34
Slaughter Lane, 17, IJ4
Smiths' Row, 1 12
Soon, William, 18
Speryng, Nicholas, 71, 112
Spittle End, 7, 43
Star inn, 104
Stokys' almshouses, 130
Sun inn, 107
Swinecroft, 8, 44
Swyn family, 47
Symons, Ralph, 123
Tanners' Hall, 113
Tennis Court Road, J40
Thomas (S.) Hostel, 46
Leys, 44, 120, 139
Thorpe, Sir Robert and Sir William,
29 «.
Tolbooth, 113
Trinitv church, 17, 109
College, 42, 57-8, 80-95, 133,
143
Hall, 14, 34, 75-7
Hostel, 126
True Blue inn, 148
Trampinqton Ford, xi, 2-3, 140
Turner, Dr Francis, 137
Tyled Hostel, 90
University Hall, 31
Hostel, 45
Street, 12, 68
Veysy family, 112
Vine, the, 124
Volye Croft, 47
Wales (Walls) Lane, 16-7, 65, 125,
Whitefreer Lane, 65
White Friars, 10, 20, 54
White Horse inn, 63
Willis, Professor, 5, 12
Workhouse Lane, 134
W)Tiwick's Croft, 48
CAMBRIDGE: PRINTED BY J. B. PEACE, M.A., AT THE UNIVERSITY PRESS
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