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OLD  TIMES 


IN 


WEST  TENNESSEE, 


REMINISCENCES SEMI-HISTORIC OF  PIONEER  LIFE 

AND  THE  EARLY  EMIGRANT  SETTLERS  IN 
THE  Bia  HATCHIE  COUNTRY. 


BY 

A  DESCENDENT  OF  ONE  OF  THE  FIRST  SETTLERS. 


X 


5S"0.n4/«c'/ 


./ 


MEMPHIS,  TENN.: 

G.  CHEENEY,  PRINTER  AND   PUBLISHER 

1873. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1873,  by  Joseph 
S.  WiiiiiiAMS,  in  the  ofHce  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress  at        j 
Washington. 


P4'4■^. 


RESPECTFULLY  DEDICATED 

TO  THE 

SURVIVING    PIONEER    SETTLERS, 

WHOSE    BRAVE    HEARTS   AND    STRONG    ARMS 

Subdued  the  Wilderness  of  West  Tennessee,  and  made  it  the  fitting 
abode  for  refined,  civilized  enjoyment, 

AND  THEIR 

IMMEDIATE  SUCCESSORS. 


PREFACE. 

This  book  is  prefaced  by  its  title  page,  requiring  but 
little  to  be  said  as  to  the  design  of  the  writer,  or  his  mo- 
tives for  writing  it. 

It  is  hardly  necessary  for  the  author  to  put  in  a  dis- 
clairner  that  he  assumes  to  be  neither  a  historioc^rapher 
nor  a  biographer,  much  less  an  annalist;  semi- historic, 
irregular  and  defective,  if  you  will,  is  the  only  title  he 
claims  for  it. 

Whether  it  be  accorded  or  not,  it  is  none  the  lesst-rue 
that  '•  every  man  has  his  own  style,  as  he  has  his  '  own 
nose;'  and  it  is  neither  polite  nor  Christian  to  rally 
a  man  about  his  nose,  however  singular  it  may  be  " — a 
fact  pregnant  with  homely  sense,  and  commends  itself 
to  the  exercise  of  charity  on  the  part  of  the  critical 
reader. 

Conceived  when  gout  most  troubled,  and  born  of  neces- 
sity, it  was  written  when  afflicted  with  physical  pain, 
amply  recompensed,  however,  in  the  pleasurable  inter- 
est it  gave  in  reviving  the  scenes  and  recollections  of 
his  boyhood  days.  Should  the  reader  derive  a  tithe  of 
the  interest  in  reading  that  was  afforded  in  v/riting,  the 
author  will  be  doubly  recompensed. 

An  apology  is  due  the  theme  it  purports  to  treat,  and 
is  beseechingly  asked  for  the  author,  for  having  written 


6  Preface^ 

it  hurriedly  and  without  sufficiefit  data.  He  had  writ- 
ten to  many  of  the  immediate  successors  of  the  first  and 
early  settlers  in  the  Big  Hatchie  country  for  something 
of  the  early  lives  and  connecting  incidents  of  their 
brave  fathers  and  people,  in  subduing  the  wilds  of  West 
Tennessee ;  but,  for  some  cause  or  other,  except  in  a  few 
instances,  he  received  no  response  ;  possibly  they  feared 
to  trust  such  a  priceless  heritage  to  the  pen  of  unknown 
authorship. 

It  is  to  be  regretted,  as  their  names  and  heroism  in 
hewing  down  the  forest  and  opening  up  the  way  to 
thrift  and  refined  civilized  enjoyment  would  have  con- 
tributed greatly  to  the  interest  of  the  history  of  Old 
Times  in  West  Tennessee. 

The  author,  not  wishing  to  "play  showman  to  his 
own  machinery,"  submits  the  following  pages  to  the 
reader  for  what  they  are  worth,  with  a  prayer  that  he 
be  gentle  and  deal  lightly,  and,  if  merit  there  be,  encour- 
age him  to  a  wider  field,  yet  lying  fallow  in  its  virgin 
freshness.  the  author. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTEE  I. 

Early  Pioneer  Settlers  in  the  Big  Hatchie  Country — Movers' 
C>iravan  through  the  Choctaw  and  Chickasaw  Nations — 
History  of  the  Leaden  Bullet  and  White  Flint  Arrow — Ds- 
Soto  and  his  Bronzed  Companions  put  to  Flight  by  the 
Chickasaws — Bienville's  Expedition  and  his  Defeat — D'Ai- 
taguettia  and  DeVincennes,  and  their  Fate 7  37 

CHAPTER  11. 

Early  Settlers  form  a  Neighborhood — Jce  Seaborn  and  the 
Hog's  Hide — Nancy  and  her  Peril  with  the  Panther— Pan- 
ther Hunt — The  Koad  to  Covington — First  Ferry  in  Tipton 
on  the  Hat.hie — Dickens  and  his  T^ixes — Old  Jack 28  51 

CHAPTER  III. 

Neighborhoods  Forming — Thomas  Durham  Founder  of 
Durhamville  —  Johnnie  Bradford  —  Thomas  Thomr  son, 
Esquire — D.  C.  Russell — The  First  Frame  House — Jacob 
Niswanger  and  William  Murphy,  the  Hatter,  and  his  Black- 
snakes — Joseph  Wardlaw — Stephen  Childress  —  Thomas 
Childless — William  Turner  and  Parson  Collins;  tbeir  First 
Night  in  the  Big  Hatchie  Country — Arthur  Davis  the 
Pioneer  Preacher;  his  First  Sermon  in  the  Big  Hatchie 
Country — First  Schoolhouse  in  Tipton  North  of  Hatchie — 
Old  Man  Larkin  Gaines  the  First  Schoolmaster 52  66 

CHAPTER  IV. 

John  C.  Barnes,  the  Pioneer  Blacksmith — What  Became  of 
General  Tipton's  Jackass — The  Chickasaws  and  the  Shoot- 
ing Match — The  First  Tubmill  and  Cotton  Gin — Joshua 
Farrington,  the  Ginmaker — Temple,  the  Screwcutter  and 
Model  Bear  Hunter — His  two  Dog«,  Cieiar  and  Bess— Boll- 


(2) 

var  Merchants — Pitser  Miller — The  Author's  First  Kill- 
iDg 67-88 

CHAPIEK  V. 

Big  Bear  Hunt— Temple,  the  Model  Bear  Hunter,  and  his 
Dogs  Ciesar  and  Bess — The  Big  Hu'ricane — Numerous 
Bear  Killings — Encounter  with  a  Panther — Roosting  Wild 
Turkeys — Camp  Life  in  the  Woods — The  Locked  Buck 
Herns— The  Deer  Lick  Slash— The  Big  Bear- Tha  Kill- 
ing— Camp  Stories  and  Anecdotes — The  Last  Day's  Hunt 
and  the  Last  Killing ^9-122 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Lawyers  Riding  the  Circuit — Joshua  Haskell,  the  First 
Judge — Alexander  B.  Bradford — Major  Richmond — Gene- 
ral Loving— John  W.  Strother — The  Methodist  Preacher 
and  the  Scalding  Cop  of  Goifee — The  First  Nation  s  Mus- 
ter at  Hurricane  Hill — Bloody  Noses  and  Black  Eyes — 
John  Barnes,  the  Blacksmith,  and  Ab  Gaines,  the  Bully — 
Proposed  Prize  Fight — Ab  and  th3  Squatters  Wife — John 
Smith  and  Daniel  Parker 123  139 

CHAPTER  VIL 

The  Character  of  Men  who  Settled  West  Tennessee — Tipton 
County;  its  Original  Teiritory  and  Topographical  Fea- 
tures— Organization  and  Officers  of  the  First  Courts — The 
First  Venire  of  Grand  and  Petit  Juries  -Jacob  Tipton — R. 
W.  Sanford— Covington— Th  3  First  Merchants— The  First 
Physicians — The  Calmes  Tavern — Tavern-Keeper — The 
Boys  about  Town — The  New  Sign  and  the  Bell-Ringing — 
The  Calves  in  the  Courthouse — Holtshouser's  Court — Old 
Johnnie  Giddins — Tackett  Kills  Mitchell— Gray's  Cas«; 
his  Life  Staked  upcn  a  Game  of  Cards — Grandville  D. 
Searcy — The  Fourth  of  July  Celebration — David  Crockett 
Canvassing  for  Congress;  his  Opponents,  Captain  Joel 
Estes,  Adiim  R.  Alexander  and  Jim  Clarke — Dr.  Charles 
G.  Fi.her — Nathan  Adams — William  Coward  and  the 
Wolf  Story — Mujor  Armftead  Mprehead — James  S'vee- 
ney — Major  Richmond  and  Qeorgef  Shankle 140  176 


(3) 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

The  Mountain  Academy — James  Holme?,  D.  D  ;  his  Pupils — 
My  Room-Mate — Style  of  Dress — Camp-Meeting — Youth 
and  Love 177-193 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Randolph  in  Old  Times — Its  Best  Days — Loses  the  Chance 
of  Becoming  a  City — Spirit  of  Internal  Improvement  of 
that  Day — Early  Settlers — Jesse  Benton — The  Alstons — 
Colonel  Tom  Roberson — Frank  Latham — First  Newspaper 
in  the  Country — Murrell  Excitement — Expedition  to 
Shawnee  Village 194-205 

CHAPTER  X. 

Lauderdale  Formed  out  of  Big  Hatchie  Territory — Key 
Corner  Established  by  Henry  Rutherford  in  1789 — Ruther- 
ford and  David  Porter  the  First  Permanent  Settlers — David 
T.  Porter,  the  First  Born — Cole  Creek  Bluffs — Interesting 
Topographical  Features — Discovery  of  the  Three  Graves  ; 
their  History  Worked  out  in  Romance 206-234 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Haywood  County — Colonel  Richard  Nixon,  the  First  Pioneer 
Settler — N.  T.  Perkins — Hiram  Bradford — Organization  of 
th^  First  Courts— The  First  Venire  of  Grand  and  Petit 
Juries — The  Taylor  Family — Dr.  Allen  J.  Barbee — David 
McLeod,  the  Pioneer  Tailor — Daniel  Cherry — The  First 
Execution  Issued — Reuben  Alfin  and  the  Bull — Major 
■William  R.  Hess  ;  his  Appearance  Befovi  the  County 
Court— The  Moody  Case 235-265 

CHAPTER  XII. 

The  First  Steamboat,  Red  Rover ;  the  Denizens  of  Haywood 
Gather  on  the  Banks  of  the  Big  Hatchie  to  see  it — "Val- 
entine Sevier,  the  Wit  and  Humorestof  Brownsville — Cox, 
the  Postmaster — Old  Herring  Bones — The  Young  Horse- 
Trader— Homage 256-270 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Fatexte  ;  its  Geographical  and  Topographical   Features — 


(4) 

County  Sites   Established  for  Seven  Counties — Lewis  P. 
Williamson — Hardeman — Bolivar — Ezekie]  Polk — Jackson 

—First  Newspaper— Colonel  D.  C.  McLean 271-284 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Bright  and  Lasting  Memories  of  Youth  Linking  the  Past 
with  the  Present — The  Old  Log  Schoolhouse — The  School- 
Path  and  Play-Ground — Schoolboys  Demanding  a  Day's 
Holiday— Our  Mother 285-295 


OLD  TIMES 

IN 

WEST   TENNESSEE. 

CHAPTER  I. 

Bemiiiiscences — Semi- Historic — of  Pioneer  Life  and   the 
Early  Emigrant  Settlers  of  the  Big  Hatchie  Country. 

The  poetic  vision  of  the  Greek,  in  looking  back 
through  dim  antiquity,  when  Ilion  resisted  the 
thunder-bolts  of  Agaraemnon's  hosts;  when  the 
Argos,  freighted  with  human  life,  weighed  anchor 
and  sailed  away  to  the  far-off  Colchis;  the  more 
modern  romances  of  Fernando  DeSoto,  Juan  Ponce 
de  Leon,  Pocahontas  and  her  Captain  Smith,  Daniel 
Boone  and  Tecumseh,  is  not  more  thrilling  in  inter- 
est to  the  descendents  of  the  pioneer  settlers  of  this 
country  than  the  land  of  the  Chickasaws  and  Davy 
Crockett — the  Obion,  Forked  Deer  and  the  Big 
Hatchie  country — when  in  the  cradle  of  the  wilder- 
ness. 

On  the  banks  of  a  beautiful  creek,  north  of  the 
Big  Hatchie  River,  in  the  early  days  of  March,  little 
less  than  three  score  years  ago,  my  father  pitched 
his  tent,  and  called  it  home.  There  the  abode  of 
civilization  was  first  planted  in  that  trackless  wilder- 


8  Jleminiscences  of  Old  Twies 

ness.  Then  but  a  lad  of  less  than  twelve  summers, 
the  haunts  of  the  countless  wild  beasts  which  filled 
the  land  are  as  freshly  mapped  out  as  if  it  were  but 
yesterday.  The  frightful  howl  of  the  w^olf,  and  the 
sharp,  startling  scream  of  the  panther,  became  as 
familiar  as  household  words. 

'Twas  there  in  childhood  I  played  ; 
In  the  untrodden  v/ilderness  I  strayed; 
Land  of  my  youth,  whose  memories  last, 
Linking  the  present  with  the  past. 

Thither  my  father  moved  from  the  sands  of  the 
old  settled  part  of  Mississippi,  south  of  latitude  32°, 
a  distance  of  more  than  three  hundred  miles,  through 
a  wild,  trackless,  savage  territory.  The  fatigue  and 
peril  of  moving  a  large  family  of  white  and  black, 
through  a  savage  wilderness,  with  all  the  parapher- 
nalia of  comfortable  living,  in  those  days  of  rude 
travel,  was  an  undertaking  requiring  almost  super- 
human endurance  and  inflexible  will,  but  m}^  father 
proved  himself  equal  to  it. 

In  January,  18 — ,  through  the  lonely  vistas  of  the 
pine  woods,  was  seen  a  long  train  of  movers.  In 
front  rode  my  father,  on  his  faithful  and  sure-footed 
dapple-gray  mare,  w^ith  heavy  holsters  swinging 
across  the  pommel  of  his  saddle,  with  their  black  bear- 
skin covering.  Stern,  thoughtful  and  reticent,  with 
indomitable  will,  he  had  resolved  to  convoy  his  pre- 
cious charge  safely  through  whatever  of  peril  or 
difficulty  that  should  menace  him.  Following  close 
behind  was  a  large  black  cariwall,  containing 
mother,  grandmother  and  the  young  children.  The 
carryall  (ambulance  it  would  be  called  now-a-days) 
my  father  had    made   in   North   Carolina,  wdth  an 


in  West  Tennessee.  9 

eye  single  to  its  usefulness  as  a  sleeping  apartment, 
as  well  as  traveling  vehicle ;  long  and  broad,  deep 
sides  and  high  back,  with  heavy  leather  curtains, 
lined  with  thick,  green  baize,  when  closely  buttoned 
down,  and  bed  made  up  in  it,  was  comfortable 
enough  for  an  emperor's  wife.  It  was  the  traveling 
and  sleeping  apartment  of  my  mother,  grandmother 
and  three  young  sisters. 

Provident  in  arrangement,  my  father  had  gone  to 
Mobile  and  purchased  a  year's  supply  of  everything 
requisite  to  a  comfortable  living  in  the  wikls  of  the 
Big  Hatchie — coffee,  tea,  rice,  sugar,  flour,  spices 
and  medicines,  cards,  cotton  and  spinning-wheels, 
every  variety  and  kind  of  seeds,  implements  of 
husbandry,  carpenter  and  blacksmith  tools,  and 
assorted  nails,  not  forgetting  an  ample  stock  of 
powder,  lead  and  shot,  selecting  twenty  head  of 
choice  milch  cows  with  their  calves  and  yearlings, 
and  about  the  same  number  of  stock  hogs.  My 
mother  contributed  her  share  in  the  necessary  pre- 
paration for  the  journey  ;  every  one,  both  black  and 
white,  were  properly  and  comfortably  clad  in  home- 
spun clothes — stout  overcoats  for  the  men  and  long- 
jackets  for  the  women.  The  seats  and  knees  of  her 
boys'  pants  she  padded  with  dressed  buckskin  (this 
economic  measure  is  appreciated  by  all  who  have 
made  long  journeys,  camping  out  every  night). 
The  train,  when  in  motion,  presented  an  imposing 
appearance.  The  weather  being  favorable,  the 
country  open  pinewoods,  now  and  then  a  few  miles 
of  neighborhood  road,  whicli  liappened  to  lay  in 
our  course,  we   reached  the   Choctaw    territor}'    at 


10  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

nightfall  on  the  fifth  day.  There  we  remained  over 
until  Monday.  My  father  considered  it  necessary 
to  communicate  with  the  chief,  and  obtain  safe  con- 
duct through  his  territor3^  These  little  diplomatic 
arrangements  completed,  and  the  services  of  a 
guide,  or  pilot,  secured,  word  was  given  to  gear  up! 
The  second  week  opened  upon  us  heading  slowly 
through  the  Choctaw  nation,  rumbling  over  roots 
and  such  undergrow^th  as  did  not  impede  travel. 
We  made  some  days  as  much  as  ten  miles,  oftener, 
however,  not  more  than  six  or  eight.  We  were  not 
unfrequently  delayed  for  several  days  when  difficult 
crossings  of  streams  were  to  be  made.  Often  it  was 
found  impracticable  to  construct  bridges,  when  floats 
(pontoons)  were  made,  and  the  wagons  unloaded 
and  taken  apart,  and  everything  packed  across  by 
hand.  All  these  difficulties  were  met  and  overcome 
with  a  hearty  good  will,  and  songs  of  good  cheer. 
Marvelous  had  been  the  stories  told  the  negroes  of 
the  good  things  in  store  for  them  in  the  Big  Hatchie 
country.  That  it  was  literally  a  land  flowing  with 
milk  and  honey;  so  rich  in  soil  that  you  only  had  to 
make  a  hole  iti  the  ground  with  ^^our  heel,  drop  the 
corn  into  it,  and  it  would  grow  without  work;  the 
forest  hanging  with  the  most  delicious  fruits,  and  the 
ground  covered  with  strawberries;  even  to  fat  pigs, 
ready  roasted,  and  running  about  with  knife  and 
fork  in  their  backs,  much  of  which  they  wrought 
into  song. 

We  found  the  Choctaws  friendly  and  well  dis- 
posed. My  father  did  not,  however,  relax  his  vigil 
in  having  a  close  watch  kept  upon  the  stock  during 


in  West  Tcmicsscc.  11 


f 


the  night.  The  cows  and  hogs  were  belled,  so  as  to 
give  the  alarm  when  in  the  slightest  disturbed. 
The  camp  was  infested  with  Indians  every  night, 
bringing  in  every  variety  of  game,  with  other  eata- 
bles, asking  to  trade.  My  father  had  supplied  him- 
self with  a  good  stock  of  beads  and  red  things.  A 
lively  trade  was  carried  on  most  every  night.  Ven- 
ison and  wild  turkeys  were  in  abundance,  with  beau- 
tiful bead  baskets,  and  every  variety  of  bead-work. 
A  few  loads  of  powder  or  a  red  cotton  handkerchief 
would  pay  for  a  fat  gobbler  or  a  saddle  of  venison. 
We  fared  sumptuously. 

Reaching  the  Chickasaw  territory,  the  Choctaw 
guide  was  relieved,  my  father  making  him  many 
presents  for  his  faithful  services,  sending  presents  to 
his  chief.  A  Chickasaw  guide  was  engaged,  and  the 
course  of  travel  decided  upon.  To  avoid  the 
broken  country  along  the  head-waters  of  the  numer- 
ous streams  flowing  westwardly,  a  more  easterly 
direction  was  advised. 

Leaving  the  lazy  and  proverbially  filthy  Choctaw, 
we  entered  the  Chickasaw  nation — noble  race  of 
the  red  man,  first  to  resist  the  iron  heel  of  the  white 
man,  famed  for  their  bravery  and  ferocious  bearing 
in  war,  and  among  the  first  to  make  a  generous  and 
lasting  peace,  and  cultivate  the  arts  of  civilization. 
The  country  through  which  we  traveled  was  slightly 
rolling,  wood  principally  oak  and  hickory,  devoid 
of  tangled  un  dergrowth.  Traveling  for  days  w^ithou  t 
incident  or  difiiculty  worthy  of  mention,  we  reached 
the  thickly  settled  portion  of  the  nation,  in  the 
vicinity  of  which  was  situated  the  principal  village, 


1^  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

at  which  the  chief  resided.  It  was  on  a  Friday; 
man  aud  beast  needed  rest,  and  the  order  was  given 
that  we  would  lay  over  till  Monday.  No  travel  was 
done  on  the  Sabbath.  My  father,  a  strict  old-side 
Presbyterian,  was  true  to  his  faith  in  "observing  the 
Sabbath,  to  keep  it  holy,"  and  required  of  his  family, 
both  black  and  white,  that  they  should  do  the  same. 

The  tents  were  pitched  upon  a  lovely  spot,  on  the 
margin  of  a  gentle  slope  overlooking  the  beautiful 
prairie  to  the  east,  a  clear  running  brook  close  by. 
When  the  bright  morning  sun  rose,  chasing  the 
gray  mist  over  the  broad  expanse  of  the  lovely 
prairie  to  the  east  and  northeast,  numerous  Indian 
settlements,  or  villages,  were  seen  in  the  distance. . 
The  village  at  which  the  chief  resided  lay  to  the 
northwest  of  us  some  six  miles.  Orders  were 
given  to  prepare  for  washing — to  Jack  and  Jim  to 
get  out  the  big  kettle  and  swing  it,  the  washtubs, 
and  stretch  the  clothes-line,  the  cattle  and  hogs  to 
be  driven  over  in  the  prairie,  and  a  close  watch  kept 
upon  them. 

During  the  day  the  chief,  accompanied  by  several 
of  his  braves  and  his  interpreter,  visited  the  camp. 
The  interpreter  was  a  negro  slave,  and  belonged  to 
the  chief,  who  owned  many  slaves.  The  object  of 
his  visit  was  to  invite  my  father  to  visit  him,  ex- 
tending the  hospitalities  of  the  village  to  the  whole 
camp.  A  reciprocal  trade  was  carried  on  during 
the  day.  The  squaws  brought  large  baskets  of  corn 
and  pumpkins,  some  with  rice  and  hominy,  others 
with  liickory-nut  kernels,  carefully  picked  out,  many 
of  them  without  being  broken.     The  trade  was  in- 


m 


West  Tennessee.  13 


terrupted  by  the  boys  coming  into  camp,  delighted 
with  their  findings'while  roaming  over  the  prairie. 
Everybody's  euriositj^  was  excited  to  see;  from  a 
dozen  voices  at  once,  "Let  me  see!"  "Let  me  see!" 
"  O,  do  let  me  see  /"  The  objects  of  so  much  curious 
interest  were  several  white  flint  arrow-heads  and  a 
large  corroded  leaden  ball.  Such  was  the  marvel 
at  w^hat  had  been  picked  up  on  the  prairie  that  the 
chief  and  his  braves,  who  had  been  standing  seem- 
ingly unconcerned,  were  applied  to  for  something 
of  their  history.  They  certainly  had  a  history; 
relics  of  art,  of  the  white  and  the  red  man,  found 
side  by  side  in  the  wilds  of  a  savage  country,  excite 
the  curious  to  know  something  of  them.  The  chief, 
a  huge  mass  of  fat,  with  a  jolly,  good-natured  face, 
and  an  intelligent,  laughing  eye,  shook  his  big  sides 
with  a  grunt,  and  spoke  through  his  interpreter 
thus:  "Long,  long  ago,"  pointing  in  the  direction 
from  which  the  boys  came  running,  "on  yonder  hill 
a  big  battle  was  fought  between  the  red  man  and 
the  white  man.  The  red  men  killed  all  the  white 
men,  since  which  time  the  red  man  has  been  at 
peace  with  the  white  man."  This  was  the  only  in- 
formation obtained  to  the  numerous  inquiries  as  to 
when,  and  who  w^ere  the  white  men  engaged  in  such 
deadly  conflict  with  the  red  men.*  The  rock  from 
which  the  arrow-head  was  cut  did  not  exist  in 
this  region.  The  size  of  the  leaden  ball  differed 
from  the  ordinary  rifle  bullet  then  in  use,  and  its 
corroded  state  excHed  interest  as  to  its  antiquity.  My 
father,  thinking  ho  could  throw  some  light  upon  the 
subject,  spoke,  addressing  himself  to  the  chief,  who 


14  Ranhmcenccs  of  Old  Times 

had  settled  himself  upon  the  ground,  with  his  fat 
legs  crossed  under  him :  "  That  more  than  two  hun- 
dred and  eighty  years  ago,  Spain,  a  powerful  nation 
across  the  big  water,  sent  a  great  many  big  ships, 
with  men,  arms  and  ammunition,  and  fine  horses, 
to  take  possession  of  all  this  country;  that  they 
landed  somewhere  on  the  coast  of  Florida,  under 
the  command  of  a  great  man  called  Fernando  De- 
Soto;  that  DeSoto, landing  his  men, guns  and  horses, 
marched  up  through  the  territory  of  the  Alabamas, 
then,  turning  west,  crossed  the  Tombigbee  some- 
where near  the  Chickasaw  village,  passing  through 
their  territory,  crossing  the  Mississippi  at  the  Chicka- 
saw bluffs;  that  the  Chickasaws  were  ofifended  with 
the  strangers  for  entering  their  territory  without 
asking  their  big  chief  to  smoke  the  calumet,  gave 
them  battle,  killing  a  great  number;  that  more  than 
one  hundred  and  ninety  years  after  the  Spaniards 
passed  through  the  territory  of  the  Chickasaws,  the 
French,  who  claimed  all  the  country  on  both  sides 
of  the  Mississippi, from  its  mouth  to  the  great  lakes 
in  the  north,  became  offended  with  the  Chickasaws 
for  taking  sides  with  and  helping  the  Natchez,  with 
whom  they  were  at  war,  sent  Bienville,  who  was 
Governor  of  Louisiana,  with  a  great  army  of  white 
men  and  a  large^iumber  of  Choctaws,  up  the  Tom- 
bigbee river  to  drive  them  from  their  territory. 
Bienville,  with  his  soldiers  and  Choctaw  friends, 
landed  near  the  Chickasaw  villages,  marched  out 
and  had  a  big  fight  at  Ackia  village."  (As  the  name 
of  tlie  vilhige  was  mentioned,  the  chief,  who,  it  will 
be  remembered, had  taken  his  seat  upon  the  ground, 


in  West  Tennessee.  '  15 

quick  as  an  arrow  from  its  bow,  jumped  up  with 
features  animated  and  both  arms  extended,  gesticu- 
lating in  the  direction  of  a  hillock  to  the  northeast 
of  our  camp,  sparsely  wooded,  and  repeated  the 
name  of  the  village,  "Ackia!  Ackia!")  Resuming, 
he  told  the  chief  that  his  people  defeated  the  French, 
killed  a  great  many,  and  pursued  the  remainder  to 
their  boats;  that  his  people  never  had  been  con- 
quered; they  were  famed  in  history  for  their  bravery 
and  heroic  bearing  in  war.  Delighted  with  such  a 
glorious  account  of  his  nation,  he,  with  his  compan- 
ions, took  their  leave,  making  my  father  promise  to 
come  out  and  eat  with  him  at  his  village,  which  he 
promised  to  do  Monday. 

Our  tents  had  been  pitched  within  a  few  rods  of 
the  historic  ground  upon  which  the  village  of  Ac- 
kia stood,  where,  more  than  two  hundred  and  eighty 
years  ago,  its  red  defenders  put  to  flight  DeSoto  and 
his  bronzed  companions,  with  their  golden  spurs, 
where  Bienville  fought  his  great  battle  with  the 
brave  Chickasaws,  where  the  ashes  of  the  hand- 
some Chevalier  D'Artaguettie  and  the  noble  De 
Vincennes  rest  in  peace,  mingled  with  mother 
earth.  Shall  we  search  for  the  history  of  the  leaden 
ball  and  the  white  flint  arrow-head  among  those 
fallen  braves,  whose  names  and  deeds  have  made 
glorious  the  history  of  this  memorable  spot?  Let 
us  while  away  the  Sabbath  in  so  pleasing  a  search. 

The  Chickasaws  gave  the  French  more  concern 
than  all  the  nations  of  red  men  combined.  They 
were  the  implacable  enemies  of  France.  Maintain- 
ing their  independence,  they  greatly  weakened  and 


16  Reminiseenees  of  Old  Times 

divided  the  ISTew  Empire.  Communication  with  the 
lakes  in  the  north,  and  New  Orleans,  was  in  con- 
stant danger  of  interruption  by  the  intrepid  Chicka- 
saws.  With  their  cedar  barks  they  were  ready  to 
shoot  out  into  the  Mississippi.  They  permitted  no 
settlement  upon  the  eastern  shore  of  the  great  river. 
From  the  JS'atchez  to  the  Ohio  they  claimed  do- 
minion, and  held  it  against  the  French,  who  had 
mapped  out  as  belonging  to  France  all  the  country 
west  of  the  Alleghanies  to  the  Rocky  Mountains— 
that  not  a  rill  or  brook  that  flowed  from  the  moun- 
tains into  the  Father  of  Waters  but  ran  tlirough 
French  territory.  Independent  and  resolute,  they 
had  given  aid  and  comfort  to  the  Natchez,  wdiose 
utter  annihilation  the  French  aimed  at.  In  order, 
therefore,  to  secure  and  reduce  the  eastern  valley 
of  the  Mississippi,  it  Avas  necessary  to  rid  them- 
selves of  the  Chickasaws.  To  this  end  Bienville, 
then  Governor  of  Louisiana,  was  instructed  by  the 
French  Government  to  fit  out  an  expedition  equal 
to  the  undertaking,  and  drive  them  from  the  terri- 
tory. After  two  years'  preparation,  fresh  troops 
having  been  sent  out  from  France,  Bienville  an- 
nounced himself  ready  to  move  with  his  expedition 
upon  the  Chickasaws.  He  had  written  to  the  brave 
young  Chevalier  D'Artaguettie,  commanding  the  Illi^ 
nois  department,  to  gather  all  the  troops,  both  white 
and  red,  under  his  command,  and  join  him  in  the 
Chickasaw  territory — to  meet  him  at  the  Chickasaw 
village  on  the  last  day  of  Marcli.  Prompt  to  duty, 
D'Artaguettie,  communicatiug  with  Yineeinies, com- 
manding the  Iroquois  and  tribes  on  tlie  Wabash, 


in  West  Tennessee.  17 

and  Montcheval,  commanding  the  Miamis  and  Da- 
cotahs,  he  was  soon  ready  and  descending  the  Mis- 
sissippi with  one  hundred  and  thirty  white  troops 
and  three  hundred  and  sixty  red  aUies.  On  the  4th  of 
March  Bienville  left  iTew  Orleans  wHth  his  imposing 
army,  finely  appointed  and  equipped,  carrying  many 
cannon.  Untoward  winds  greatly  retarded  his  move- 
ments, and  he  did  not  reach  Mobile  until  the  twenty- 
third  day.  Being  delayed  there  on  account  of  the 
condition  of  his  boats,  it  was  the  1st  of  April  before 
the  expedition  commenced  its  move  up  the  river. 
Two  hundred  miles  from  Mobile,  on  the  Tombigbee, 
a  depot  of  ammunition  and  supplies  had  been  estab- 
tablished,  where  Bienv^ille  was  to  be  joined  by  twelve 
hundred  warriors  of  the  Choctaw  tribe.  Reaching 
their  depot  of  ammunition  and  supplies,  after  innu- 
merable delays,  they  found  the  Choctaws  not  yet 
arrived.  While  there,  Bienville  reviewing  his  grand 
army,  his  red  allies  came  up  to  the  number  of  six 
hundred,  adding  greatly  to  the  grand  military  par- 
ade. On  the  18th  of  April  Bienville  resumed  his 
march  up  the  Tombigbee,  arriving  opposite  the 
Chickasaw  village  the  23d  day  of  May,  a  month  and 
twenty-three  days  behind  his  appointed  time  for 
D'Artaguettie  to  join  him.  His  first  order,  however, 
was  to  send  out  scouts  to  learn  something,  if  they 
could,  of  the  expedition  from  the  Illinois,  and  to 
reconnoiter  the  villages.  Securing  his  boats,  and 
constructing  a  rude  fortification  in  front  of  them, 
he  put  his  army  in  motion,  with  ten  days'  rations, 
leaving  the  commanders  of  the  boats  and  a  squad 
of  soldiers  in  charge  of  the   cannon,  temporarily 


18  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

mounted,  camping  at  the  edge  of  the  prairie,  some 
six  miles  from  the  village.  At  early  dawn,  before 
the  bright  rays  of  the  sun  rose  over  the  broad  ex- 
panse of  the  prairie,  dissipating  the  gray  mist  rising 
from  the  heavy  dew  upon  the  wide-spread  waves  of 
the  tall  grass,  Bienville  put  his  army  in  motion. 
Chivalry,  upon  their  richly-caparisoned  steeds,  rode 
with  glittering  pomp  by  the  side  of  the  quick,  earn- 
est step  of  the  broad-shouldered  grenadier,  and  the 
heavy  tread  of  the  Swiss  guards.  The  gayly-dressed 
volunteers,  among  whom  were  many  of  the  "best 
young  bloods"  of  France,  led  by  the  gallant  De 
Lassier,  bearing  flying  banners,  with  cheering  mot- 
toes, worked  in  gay  colors  by  their  lady-loves,  in- 
spired by  lively  martial  music, presented  an  imposing 
sight.  With  soul-stirring  aspirations,  they  did  not 
doubt  but  that  it  would  strike  terror  into  the  hearts 
of  the  red  men  upon  whom  they  were  marching. 
Beware,  invaders,' beware!  the  red  man's  ideas  of 
liberty  are  too  deeply  rooted  in  the  soil  of  their 
"  beloved  prairies,"  under  which  the  bones  of  their 
fathers  lie,  to  yield  without  a  bloody  resistance. 
Keenly  alive  to  the  fate  of  the  JS'atchez,  whose  vil- 
lages had  been  laid  waste  by  the  French,  and  their 
great  chief,  with  four  hundred  of  his  brave  Avarriors, 
manacled,  and  transported  in  chains  to  the  slave 
markets  of  the  islands  (already  were  several  hun- 
dred of  the  Natchez  tribe,  wdio  had  been  driven 
from  their  homes  and  heritage,  finding  shelter  in 
the  wigwams  of  the  Chickasaws),  the  two  years  in 
which  Bienville  had  been  gathenng  troops  and  fit- 
ting out  his  imposing  expedition  had  not  been  kept 


in  West   Tennessee.  19 

a  secret  from  the  red  men,  whose  fathers  had  lived 
in  quiet  dominion  over  their  "beloved  prairies"  for 
ages  before  the  face  of  the  white  man  was  seen  on 
the  continent.  They  were  ready  and  prepared  for 
the  invader. 

Before  noon  Bienville  had  reached  a  position  in 
fall  view  of  the  villages.  The  troops  were  ordered 
to  take  refreshments.  In  the  meantime,  the  scouts 
sent  out  to  learn  something  of  the  wdiereabouts  of 
D'Artaguettie,  came  in,reporting  that  nothing  what- 
ever could  be  heard  of  him  or  his  command,  nor 
could  any  signs  be  found  of  his  having  been  in  the 
country.  They  reported  great  commotion  going  on 
in  the  villages  during  the  night,  but  since  daylight 
not  an  Indian  had  been  seen;  that  the  villages 
seemed  deserted.  All  hopes  of  co-operation  from 
his  northern  allies  being  given  up,  Bienville  decided 
upon  an  immediate  attack.  By  the  aid  of  his  field 
glass,  he  was  enabled  to  locate  the  stronghold  of  the 
defenders  of  the  villages.  lie  decided  to  move 
upon  it  at  once,  appointing  Chevalier  de  Noyan  to 
lead  the  attacking  column,  composed  of  fifteen 
grenadiers,  chosen  from  each  company,  forty-five 
from  the  volunteers,  and  sixty  from  the  Swiss  troops, 
retaining  two  companies  of  veterans,  who  had  seen 
service  in  old  France  under  the  gallant  Beauchamp. 
The  rest  of  the  command  was  to  follow  close  in  sup- 
port of  the  attacking  forces.  The  stronghold  of 
the  Chickasaws  seemed  to  be  in  a  row  of  strongly 
built  mud  cabins  on  the  apex  of  the  hillock  upon 
which  the  village  was  situated,  flanked  right  and 
left,  front  and  rear,  by  mud  cabins,  separated  from 


20  Reminiscences  of  Old  limes 

each  other  equi-distant  some  forty  paces.  The 
attacking  cohiran  moved  up  steadily  under  cover  of 
mantelets,  borne  by  a  company  of  negro  slaves, 
until  they  had  reached  within  a  few  paces  of  the 
first  row  of  cabins,  when  a  well-aimed  volley  was 
fired,  seemingly  from  the  ground,  not  exceeding 
twenty  paces  in  front  of  them,  killing  several  ne- 
groes. Sucli  was  the  first  shock  of  the  bullets, 
many  penetrating  through  their  pent-house  forti- 
fication, that  the  negroes  became  panic-stricken,  and, 
throwing  down  their  mantelets,  took  to  their  heels. 
The  undaunted  ISToyan,  giving  orders  for  the  com- 
bined forces  to  press  closelj^  up  in  support  of  the 
attacking  column,  reached  the  first  row  of  cabins, 
setting  fire  to  the  thatched  roofs.  Pressing  past 
them,  he  soon  discovered  that  they  were  vacated, 
the  Indians  occupying  them,  discharging  tlie  first 
volley,  had  esr^or<cd  under  cover  to  the  next  or 
middle  row,  from  whence  there  came  a  perfect  hail- 
storm of  bullets,  putting  his  brave  soldiers  to  the 
earth  faster  than  their  places  could  be  filled  by  fresh 
troops,  himself  severely  wounded.  Sacli  was  the 
rain  of  leaden  death  that  his  brave  troops  were 
forced  to  take  shelter  behind  the  first  row  of  cabins. 
The  principal  ofiicers  of  his  staft"  were  killed.  The 
Chevalier  De  Coutre,  the  pride  of  the  army,  lay 
riddled  with  bullets,  weltering  in  his  blood.  De 
Mortbrum,  leading  the  brave  Swiss,  fell  by  his  side. 
De  Juzan,  in  executing  the  order  of  the  intrepid 
Noyan — trying  to  bring  to  the  front  the  skulkiiig 
soldiers  from  behind  the  cabins — fell  pierced  with  a 
half-dozen  balls.     The  Choctaws  were  ordered  up. 


in  West  Tennessee.  21 

and  made  a  desperate  charge  to  reach  the  middle  row 
of  cabins,  but  were  repulsed  with  great  slaughter, 
Bienville,  from  his  standpoint,  witnessing  the  work 
of  destruction  going  on,  and  fearing  the  fate  of  his 
whole  army,  sent  Beauchamp,  with  his  two  compa- 
nies, with  orders  to  IS'oyan  to  bring  oif  what 
remained  of  his  forces,  and  as  many  of  his  wounded 
as  possible.  Rapidly  advancing,  he  did  not  reach 
the  place  where  Noyan,  though  suffering  from  a 
painful  wound,  was  rallying  his  troops  for  another 
charge,  without  losing  one  ofHcer  and  several  of  his 
men.  The  Chevalier  De  Xoyan  had  resolved  to 
share  the  fate  of  liis  brave  officers  who  had  borne 
the  brunt  of  the  attack,  or  reach  the  second  row 
of  cabins.  Receiving  orders  from  Bienville  to  with- 
draw his  forces,  disabled  and  suffering,  he  turned 
the  command  over  to  Beauchamp,  who,  quick  to 
comprehend  the  situation,  ordered  a  hasty  retreat. 
The  noble  Grondel  had  fallen  pierced  with  five 
bullets,  and  was  about  to  be  left  for  the  tomahawk, 
when  one  of  his  brave  grenadiers  broke  from  the 
line  and  bore  him  awa^^  upon  his  broad  shoulders, 
receiving  the  sixth  while  being  carried  oft*  the  field. 
Thus  was  fought  what  Bienville  called  the  battle  of 
Ackia  Village;  such  the  leaden  messengers,  left  by  the 
brave  young  D'Artaguettie,  in  the  hands  of  the 
Chickasaws,  to  inform  hiui  that  he  had  been  there — 
that  faithful  to  his  trust,  obedient  to  his  orders,  he, 
Vv^ith  his  little  army,  had  waited  upon  the  ijrouiid  of 
his  apjmntment ;  that  powder  and  ball  was  all  that  he 
left  him  as  a  souvenance  of  his  sad  fate,  in  whicli  we 
trace  the  history  of  the  "leaden  ball"  which  had 


2'2  Remhmcnu-cs  of  Old  Times 

beeji  corroding  on  the  soil  of  tlie  prairie  for  an 
li  unci  red  years. 

The  Chickasaws  had  given  evidence  of  their  skill 
in  fortifying  themselves  against  their  strong  enemy. 
The  walls  of  their  cabins  were  built  of  wood  and 
mud,  covered  over  with  the  same  material,  and  well 
thatched  with  straw  and  palmetto,  so  as  to  shed  the 
rain  and  keep  them  dry.  The  cabins  were  so  con- 
structed, from  one  another,  as  to  cross  their  fires 
when  the  enemy  should  press  in  among  them.  In 
the  inside  of  these  fire-and-bullet-proof  cabins  they 
dug  out  to  the  depth  of  their  arm-pits,  and  made 
loop-holes  on  a  level  w^ith  the  ground,  from  which 
they  could  fire  in  perfect  safety.  Beauchamp,  in 
writing  an  account  of  their  inglorious  defeat,  says: 
^'  To  make  an  end  of  the  Chickasaw  war,  it  is  neces- 
sary to  have  a  detachment  of  workmen — of  miners 
and  bombardiers — with  implements  and  instruments 
necessary  to  ferret  out  these  savages,  who  burrow, 
like  badgers,  in  their  cabins,  which  are  very  much 
like  ours.  Bienville  made  a  precipitate  retreat  to 
his  boats,  consigning  his  cannon  to  the  waters  of 
the  Tombigbee,  together  with  two  thousand  heavy- 
man  acles,  which  were  in  reserve  to  bind  the  liberty- 
loving  Chickasaws,  and  transport  them  from  their 
native  prairies  to  the  slave  markets.  Dispirited, 
with  feverish  disappointment,  he  turned  his  boats 
down  stream  with  what  remained  of  his  shattered 
army,  never  to  invade  the  territory'  of  the  independ- 
ent Chickasaws  again." 

What  of  the  Chevalier  D'Artaguettie,  and  the  red 
allies  of  the  ISTorthern   lakes,   whose   sad  fate  was 


hi  West  Tmnesset.  23 

unknown  to  the  retreating  and  diaconilited  Bien- 
ville? The  reader  will  recollect  that  we  left  him 
descending  the  Mississippi  with  his  expedition  to 
join  Bienville  at  the  Chickasaw  village,  on  the  last 
day  of  March.  We  next  iind  him  at  a  point  on  the 
Mississippi  called  Ecores  a  IViidomme,  a  place  not 
marked  on  our  modern  maps.  It  was  most  likely  at 
the  Chickasaw  Bluffs,  where  Memphis  now,  in  the 
pride  of  her  city  life  and  commercial  prosperity, 
stands,  as  below  the  bluff  the  country  on  the  East- 
ern banks  of  the  river  must  have  been  overflowed 
at  that  period  of  the  year  to  the  '' Walnut  Hills," 
upon  which  Vicksburg  now  stands.  Here  we  find 
him  on  the  fourth  of  March,  waiting  for  Vincennes 
and  Montcheval,  who  were  following  him  close 
behind,  and  Grampree,  commanding  the  Arkansas  on 
the  White  river.  After  several  days'  waiting,  he 
was  joined  by  Vincennes  with  forty  Iroquois  war- 
riors, and  three  hundred  and  twenty  of  the  Illinois, 
Miamis  and  Dacotahs.  In  his  anxiety  not  to  disap- 
point Bienville,  he  put  his  expedition  in  motion, 
which  then  consisted  of  one  hundred  and  thirty 
whites,  three  hundred  and  sixty  red  allies  under 
Vincennes,  and  thirty  Arkansians  from  Grampree's 
command.  By  slow  marches  he  had  hoped  that 
Montcheval  and  Grampree  would  come  up  with  him. 
We  next  find  him  in  the  heart  of  the  Chickasaw 
Territory,  waiting  for  his  scouts  to  bring  him  tid- 
ings of  Bienville.  The  time  for  them  to  co-operate 
against  the  village  was  rapidly  growing  near,  and 
yet  Grampree  and  Montcheval  had  not  come  up.  His 
red   allies  were  becoming  restive,  and   provisions 


M  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

were  getting  short.  Father  Senac,  a  Jesuit  priest, 
was  his  comforter,  yet  the  ardent  young  chevalier 
was  filled  with  misgivings.  While  waiting,  and 
before  the  return  of  his  Indian  scouts,  a  courier 
arrived  in  camp,  bringing  him  a  letter  from  Bien- 
ville, saying  that,  owing  to  innumerable  delays  and 
difficulties,  it  would  be  the  end  of  April  before  he 
could  reach  the  Chickasaw  villages.  Slowly  reading 
the  letter,  he  rose,  handing  it,  open,  to  Father  Senac, 
and  walked  to  the  end  of  his  tent,  repeating:  "ISTot 
till  the  end  of  April !  Impossible !  In  the  heart  of 
a  ferocious,  wily  enemy's  territorj^,  on  a  hostile 
expedition,  with  less  than  a  fortnight's  provisions, 
impossible!  impossible!"  Continuing  his  walk,  he 
came  to  the  headquarters  of  Vincennes,  with  whom 
he  took  counsel.  Father  Senac,  who  regarded 
D'Artaguettie  as  the  "  apple  of  his  eye,"  followed 
with  Bienville's  letter,  joining  the  two  brave  com- 
manders. He  was  welcomed  as  a  counsellor.  The 
three  were  long  engaged  in  discussing  the  grave 
question,  what  to  do.  Just  then  the  scouts  came  up, 
reporting  that  they  had  gone  bej^ond  the  great  prai- 
ries, to  the  water  of  the  Tombigbee,  and  no  tidings 
of  the  expedition  from  below  were  to  be  found  any- 
where; that  they  had  reconnoitered  the  villages, 
passing  around  them  so  cautiously  that  they  did  not 
think  "the  eye  of  a  Chickasaw  had  seen  them." 
The  question  was  debated,  whether  to  return  to 
the  boats  on  the  Mississippi,  then  sixty  leagues  off, 
or  attempt  the  capture  of  some  of  the  smaller  vil- 
lages, and  secure  supplies  to  last  them  until  the  end 
of  April,  when   relief  would   be   obtained   by   the 


in  West  Tennessee.  25 

arrival  of  Bienville.  The  scouts  and  their  red 
friends  advocated  the  latter  course,  reporting  that 
they  had  discovered  a  village  more  isolated,  con- 
taining not  more  than  thirty  cabins;  that,  from 
its  being  so  quiet,  it  must  be  the  village  in  which 
the  I^atchez  refugees  were  dwelling;  that  they 
thought  it  easily  surprised  and  taken,  when  plenty 
of  provisions  would  fall  into  their  hands;  they  could 
then  fortify  themselves  and  remain  until  the  arrival' 
of  Bienville.  To  Artaguettie  and  Yincennes,  the 
argument  seemed  feasible,  and  they  adopted  that 
course  of  action.  Orders  were  given  to  that  end, 
and  the  early  morning  dawned  upon  that  brave  little 
army  in  motion,  in  the  direction  of  the  village,  offer- 
ing so  much  hope,  then  a  day  and  a  half  march  to 
the  east.  As  the  last  rays  of  the  sun,  on  the  follow- 
ing evening,  were  lengthening  the  shadows  of  the 
tall  hickories,  on  the  high  ridges  bordering  the  prai- 
ries, Artaguettie,  with  his  companions  in  arms,  came 
in  sight  of  the  village,  some  two  miles  distant  in  the 
prairie.  Beautifully  situated  on  a  hillock,  the  cov- 
eted village  stood;  the  soft  mellow  rays  of  the  god 
of  day  were  fast  receding  from  the  tall  wood, 
hngthening  its  golden  rays  across  the  broad  prairies 
to  the  east,  reflecting  golden  hues  from  the  straw- 
covered  cabins  of  the  quiet-looking  village.  Con- 
scious of  being  unobserved,  the  command  fell  back 
to  a  small  rnnning  branch,  and  rested  upon  their 
arms.  At  midnight  Artaguettie,  Yincennes  and  the 
pious  Father  Senac  met  to  devise  the  order  of 
attack.  It  was  arranged  that,  an  hour  before  day, 
Yincennes,  with  his  red  allies,  take  a  position  within 
2 


26  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

carbine  range  of  the  village  to   the   east,  and   lay 
down  in  the  tall  grass  and  wait  for  the    signal  of 
attack;  Artaguettie  commanding  his  white  troops  to 
take  a  position  to  the   west   of  the   village.     The 
hour  for  movement  found  the  cautious  Yincennes, 
with  his  three  hundred  and  sixty  red  men,  moving 
round  to  the  position  assigned  them,  so   noiseless 
and   soft  the  tread  of  the  red  warriors  that  not  a 
blade  of  grass  was  ruffled  or  displaced.     Arriving 
at  the  appointed  place,  orders,  by  signs,  were  given 
to  lay  down,  the  tall  grass  waving  over  them.     Arta- 
guettie had  moved  up  to  his  position  behind  a  large 
thicket  of  reeds,  out  of  which  gushed  a  bold  spring, 
forming  a  murmuring  brook,  winding  its  course  to 
the  southeast  of  the  village.     The  last  hour  of  the 
night  was  hushed  into  silence — painful  silence;  not 
a  stir  came  up  from  the  village ;  nought  was  heard 
but  the  pulsations  of  the  hundreds  of  anxious  hearts 
lying  in  wait  for  the  signal  to  attack.     All  was  still 
— still   as    midnight   sleep.     Why    this    death-like 
stillness?     Had  the  quick  eye  of  the  ever- watchful 
Chickasaw  been  drowsy?    Was  he  asleep?     Had  the 
tiger  left  his  lair  and  taken  himself  to  better  quar- 
ters?    Daylight    alone    would    dispel    the   painful 
stillness.     At  the  dawn  of  day  the  signal  to  attack 
was  given.     Simultaneously  roj^e  from  the  tall  grass, 
not  an  hundred  yards  behind  where  De  Vincennes 
had   taken   his   position,   three   hundred   and  fifty 
Chickasaws.     With   the   war-whoop  and  yells  un- 
earthly,  they   rushed    with    ferocious    impetuosity 
upon  the  red  allies,  producing  such  wild  confusion 
among  the  Miamis  and  Dacotahs  that  they  took  to 


in 


West  Tennessee.  27 


flight,  leaving  the  forty  Iroquois  and  thirty  Arkansas 
to  receive  the  shock  of  battle.  Bravely  they  with- 
stood it,  fighting  hand  \^  hand;  out-numbered  five  to 
one,  they  fought  with  Spartan  courage  until  there 
was  not  one  of  the  seventy  left  to  tell  the  tale  of 
their  heroism,  worthy  a  better  fate.  Vincennes  was 
taken  alive.  The  triumphant  Chickasaws,  wide 
awake  as  to  what  was  going  on  in  the  village, 
pressed  in  through  the  approaches  from  whence  the 
French  expected  tlieir  allies,  with  such  surprising 
slaughter,  that  before  the  sun  was  fairly  above  the 
eastern  horizon,  the  gallant  Artaguettie,  with  fifteen 
of  his  command,  were  all  that  remained  alive. 
Father  Senac  might  have  made  his  escape,  but  he 
braved  death  to  remain  with  his  young  friend  Arta- 
guettie, who  was  severely  wounded.  The  flying 
Miamis  and  their  red  friends  were  pursued  with 
such  terrific  slaughter  that  but  few  reached  the  Mis- 
e'ssippi  with  their  lives.  The  Chickasaws  treated 
their  distinguished  prisoners  with  kind  attention, 
dressing  their  wounds,  and  ameliorating  their  sufter- 
ings.  Their  fate,  however,  was  to  them  full  of  pain- 
full misgivings. 

More  than  two  thousand  pounds  of  powder,  twelve 
thousand  bullets  and  many  guns  fell  into  the  hands 
of  the  Chickasaws,  which,  two  months  later,  was 
skillfully  and  efifectually  used  against  Bienville  and 
his  grand  army.  But  what  of  the  white  flint  arrow- 
head? Ma}^  it  not  have  been  hurled  from  the  strong 
bow  of  the  undaunted  Iroquois,  cut  from  their  na- 
tive chalk  clift's  on  the  Great  Lakes  in  the  north  ? 
Who  will  say  that  the  white  flint  arrow-head  shall 


^  i^eniimsceyiccs  of  Old  Times 

not  share  with  the  red  men  of  the  north  the  glories 
of  the  first  battle  of  Ackia  Village? 

"We  return  to  Artaguettie  and  his  brave  compan- 
ions. A  grand  council  was  called, its  decision  taken, 
and  preparations  rapidly  going  on  for  its  execution. 
On  a  hillock  near  the  village  "busy  life"  was  seen 
during  the  daA^,  after  the  meeting  of  the  grand  coun- 
cil. Stalwart  men  Avere  seen  carrying  huge  loads 
of  finely  split  wood,  others  were  driving  stakes  in 
the  ground,  around  Avhich  several  hundred  Indians — 
men,  women  and  children — had  collected.  It  had 
been  decreed,  according  to  a  long-established  cus- 
tom of  the  Chickasaws,  to  make  a  triumjyhant  sacri- 
fice of  their  captives  by  burning  them  at  the  stake. 
When  the  evening  began  to  grow  nigh,  the  sun, 
through  the  purplish,  sombre  clouds,  flitting  across 
the  western  horizon,  reflecting  its  blood-red  rays 
upon  the  clear  sky  in  the  east,  all  eyes  were  anx- 
iously turned  toward  the  village,  from  whence  a 
grand  procession  was  moving.  In  front,  the  hand- 
some young  Chevalier  D 'Artaguettie,  who  had  braved 
death  in  every  form;  by  his  side,  the  pious  Father 
Senac;  following  close  behind,  the  noble  De  Vin- 
ccnnes  and  fifteen  other  victims,  escorted  by  several 
hundred  painted  warriors.  On  the  procession  moved, 
ascending  the  hillock — the  same,  most  likely,  where 
Bienville  stood  two  months  later,  when  he  sent  his 
faithful  Bcauchamp  to  bring  off  his  shattered  army. 
The  moment  was  hushed  into  painful  silence;  the 
victims  were  marched  to  the  circle  of  stakes,  one 
by  one.  There  were  seventeen  stakes,  and  yet  there 
were  eighteen  victims.     One  by  one  were  tightly 


ill  Wed  Tennessee.  29 

bound  until  tlie  seventeenth  stake  had  its  victim. 
Alone  stood  by  the  great  chief  a  brave  young  sol- 
dier of  not  more  than  sixteen  years.  He  was  re- 
served to  be  returned  to  his  white-faced  chief,  to 
inform  him  and  his  people  of  the  fate  of  his  com- 
rades. In  the  center  of  the  circle  of  stakes  finely- 
split  wood  was  piled  up  as  high  as  the  heads  of  the 
victims ;  circling  the  stakes  was  a  high  pile  of  fiig* 
gots.  Everything  being  ready,  the  faggot-master 
ordered  the  fire,  when  an  hundred  torches  were  ap- 
plied,  and  the  triumphant  c?awce  began,  war-songs  and 
yells  most  hideous.  The  last  rays  of  the  setting  sun 
made  lurid  the  ascending  smoke  from  the  savage 
funereal  pyre,  and  the  crackling  flames,  rising  high 
above  the  surrounding  wood,  took  the  place  of  the 
god  of  day,  and  the  wild  chant  and  frantic  dance 
went  on.  Thus  perished  the  first  attempt  of  the 
white  man  to  plant  the  "iron  heel"  of  despotism 
upon  the  native  soil  of  the  Chickasaws. 

Leaving  our  beautiful  camping-ground  on  the 
margin  of  the  prairie,  my  father  directed  his  course 
toward  the  village  to  redeem  his  promise — to  eat 
with  the  chief.  The  country  was  an  open  hickory 
barren,  and  but  few  obstructions  were  found  to  im- 
pede travel.  We  arrived  at  the  village  by  noon. 
The  chief,  with  his  escort,  met  my  father  at  the 
edge  of  the  village,  conducting  him  and  the  entire 
train  in  front  of  his  place  of  dwelling,  which  was  on 
a  broad  street  running  through  the  center  of  the 
village  east  and  west,  studded  on  each  side  with 
antiquated  looking  china-trees,  giving  quite  the  ap- 
pearance of  civilized  life.     A  big  dinner  had  been 


so  Iicnfuii.^cciice.s  of  Old  Tifius 

prepared,  and  everybody,  black  as  well  as  white, 
participated  in  the  great  chief's  regal  hospitality. 

The  chief  and  his  braves  talked  much  of  the  Big 
Platchie  country,  calling  it  their  hunting-ground, 
exhibiting  many  bear  and  panther  skins  procured 
in  that  region.  The  chief  showed  my  father  great 
kindness,  sending  several  of  his  best  hunters  along 
with  us  to  kill  game  and  pilot  the  best  route  to 
Bolivar,  then  an  Indian  trading-post.  Leavi'ig  the 
village  an  hour  before  nightfall,  we  camped  at  a 
fine  spring.  Eesuming  travel  the  next  morning, 
it  was  continued  without  interruption,  our  Indian 
guides  bringing  in  a  venison  or  fat  gobbler  every 
day,  arriving  at  Bolivar  the  last  week  in  February, 
having  been  in  the  wilderness  forty  days  and  nights. 

Bolivar  was  then  a  small  trading-post,  poorly  sup- 
plied with  goods,  wares  and  merchandise,  except 
such  as  were  profitable  in  trading  with  the  In- 
dians. My  father  crossed  the  river  Big  Ilatchie, 
and  turned  down  it,  following  a  blaze,  digging  down 
hills  and  making  pole  ridges  until  he  reached 
the  vicinity  where  Denmark,  in  Madison  county, 
now  stands.  Here  we  came  to  a  "three-notched" 
road,  which  had  just  been  cut  out,  leading  from 
Jackson  to  Brownsville.  Taking  the  west  end, 
running  in  the  direction  we  were  traveling,  we  ar- 
rived at  the  latter  place  in  the  afternoon  of  the 
following  day.  Brownsville  had  just  been  laid  ofit* 
and  established  as  the  county  site  of  Haywood 
county.  It  contained  not  a  dozen  houses.  The 
court-house  and  jail  were  being  built  of  logs.  Our 
place  of  destination  was  still  some  twenty  odd  miles 


in  West  Tennessee,  31 

further  west,  in  the  heart  of  the  wilderness.  My 
father,  having  provided  himself  with  correct  maps 
and  surveys  of  the  country,  was  enabled  to  work  his 
way  to  the  tract  of  land  upon  which  he  designed 
settling.  Spring  opening  upon  us,  he  was  anxi  ous 
to  find  the  end  of  his  road-making,  and  pushed  on 
to  find  rest.  Finding  a  newly-blazed  way,  showing 
now  and  then  that  wagon-wheels  had  gone  over  it, 
leading  in  the  direction  we  were  going,  my  father 
availed  himself  of  it  for  the  distance  of  seven  or 
eight  miles.  Coming  to  a  large  creek,  impassable 
\vithout  bridging  at  that  season  of  the  year,  tents 
were  pitched  for  an  indefinite  number  of  daj^s. 
Every  one  that  could  use  an  ax,  hatchet  or  hoe 
was  called  into  requisition  making  roads  and  build- 
ing bridges.  Three  pretty  good-sized  creeks  and 
numerous  branches  intervened  between  our  camp 
and  the  place  of  destination.  The  direction  being 
north  of  west,  the  compass  was  non-available  in 
finding  the  course.  To  obviate  this  difficulty,  my 
fiither  would  ride  ahead  in  the  proper  direction  as 
far  as  the  sound  of  his  big  horn  could  be  heard,  and 
blow,  the  negroes  to  be  guided  by  the  blowing  of 
the  horn,  blazing  the  way  until  they  came  up  to 
him.  In  this  way  he  obtained  quite  a  straight  line 
to  follow  in  cutting  out  the  road.  After  many  days 
of  toil  the  road  was  cut,  bridges  made  and  hills  dug 
down.  Monday,  of  the  second  week  in  March,  tents 
were  struck  and  rolled  up,  never  to  be  used  again 
in  traveling.  That  night  we  arrived  on  the  bank  of 
the  beautiful  creek  mentioned  in  the  opening  of 
this  chapter,  making  the  trip  in  forty-eight  days. 


82  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

111  a  virgin  land,  teeming  with  nature's  richest 
verdure,  unknown  to  the  ruthless  tread  of  oppres- 
sion, preserved  for  countless  ages  as  the  chosen 
hunting-ground  of  the  red  men,  civilization  had 
come  to  exercise  dominion  over  it — to  found  its 
places  of  abode.  Little  did  the  pioneer  settlers 
think  that  in  less  time  than  man's  ordinary  span  of 
active  life,  the  march  of  improvement,  the  progress 
of  the  age,  would  so  soon  cover  its  broad  acres.  It 
is  not  of  the  present  that  we  w^ould  write,  but"  of 
our  country  in  its  infant  days,  when  the  ax  was  a 
stranger  in  its  giant  forests;  when  the  plow-share 
and  the  grubbing-hoe  was  first  made  bright  and 
dull  in  preparing — in  making  it  ready  for  enjoying 
civilized  life — when  its  greatest  need  w^as  man.  The 
woods  had  already  given  signs  of  the  opening  of  an 
early  spring;  the  hickory  was  budding,  and  dog- 
wood blossoms  were  whitening  the  forest — sure 
signs  that  the  last  frost  had  made  its  appearance. 
Dependent  for  "the  staff  of  life"  upon  the  growing 
of  a  crop  of  corn,  everything  was  under  strain  to 
get  through  building  and  go  to  clearing.  My  father 
had  selected  his  building  site  on  a  high  level,  or 
bench,  fronting  on  the  bluff,  under  which  was  the 
noted  "Bluff*  Spring;"  the  land  to  the  south  and 
Avest  slightly  undulating,  heavily  wooded  w^ith  pop- 
lar, black  walnut,  ash,  oak  and  hickoiy.  Before  the 
end  of  the  month  we  were  all  comfortably  housed 
in  a  double  log-house  (of  course),  front  gallery, with 
shed-room  behind;  the  garden  spot  selected,  cleared, 
grubbed  (grubbing  was  the  hardest  work,  the  spot 
being  a  hazle-nut  thicket)  and  planted,  and  all  hands 


in  West  Tennessee.  33 

in  the  new  ground.     By  the  1st  of  June  eighty  acres 
were  cleared,  under  fence  and  planted  in  corn,  with 
a  small  patch  of  cotton  for  domestic  use.     The  gar- 
den teeming  with  every  variety  of  early  vegetables, 
the  woods  overrun  with  wild  pea- vines  (the  delight 
of  the  cow),  we  had  milk  and  butter  in  abundance, 
with  good  hog  prospect.     But  the  hogs — the  great- 
est trouble  was  to  keep  the  bear  off  them;   ihej 
required  to  be  constantly  watched  during  the  day, 
and  driven  up  at  night.     I  remember  an  occurrence 
that  happened  one  day,  while  we  were  all  in  the  new 
ground^  chopping,  cleaning  up,  and  burning  brush, 
worthy  to  be  related  as  a  bear-hog  story.     The  hogs 
were  driven  out  in  the  new  ground,  where  the  hands 
were  at  work,  that  an  eye  could  be  kept  upon  them. 
Late  in  the  afternoon,  when  the  clear  ring  of  the 
ax,  and  the  crackling  fire,  looming  up  from  the 
brush-heap,  was  attracting  every  one's  attention,  we 
were  startled  by  the  sharp  squeal  of  a  hog,  not  more 
than  one  hundred  yards  off.     The  cry  arose  from 
many  voices,  "The  bear — the  bear  has  got  a  hog; 
it 's  the  old  big  sow.     I  know  her  squeal — call  the 
dogs.     Here,  Dash,  here !     Here,  Sound,  here,  here ! 
Send  for  master,  with  his  long  gun."     In  the  mean- 
time Jim,  an  athletic  negro  man,  ran  with  all  his  might 
toherrelief(itwasthe  old  big  sow,  sure  enough,  a  huge 
sow  with  saddle-skirt  ears)  with  his  ax.     So  intent 
was  bruin  in   securing  his  bacon  that  he  did  not 
heed  the  coming  up  of  the  negro  man,  who,  intent 
upon   dealing  a  death-lick,  approached  within  easy 
striking  distance.     With  ax  raised  high  in  air  he 
let  drive — his  foot  slipped — sprawling  he  went,  his 


34  Reminisccncas  of  Old  Times 

ax  grazing  the  bear's  head.  Bruin,  infuriated, 
mounted  Cuftj,  sprawling  him  his  full  length  upon 
the  ground.  Men,  women  and  children  screamed 
for  help.  Help  was,  luckily,  just  in  time.  The 
dogs  were  up,  and  engaged  the  black  monster's 
attention,  pinching  him  behind  every  time  he  would 
put  his  head  down  to  bite  Jim,  until  my  father  came 
up  with  his  long  single-barrel.  Approaching  as  close 
as  possible,  fearing  a  stray  shot  might  find  its  home 
in  one  of  his  favorite  (iogs,  he  reached  within  a  few 
feet.  The  dogs,  being  encouraged,  made  a  furious 
attack,  pressing  the  bear  to  a  rout,  when  he  rushed, 
Avith  an  angry  growl,  wide  and  extended  jaws,  tow- 
ard my  father,  until  he  reached  the  muzzle  of  the 
long  single-barrel.  Thrusting  it  down  his  broad 
throat,  he  fired.  Old  Bruin  sunk  upon  his  knees, 
to  rise  no  more.  The  long  single-barrel  was  a  nota- 
ble "  London  fowling-piece."  My  father  had  brought 
it  from  I^ortli  Carolina,  from  whence  he  moved  to 
the  old-settled  portion  of  Mississippi.  It  was  seven 
feet  long.  Twenty-four  "blue  whistlers"  was  an 
ordinary  "buck  load,"  and  two  ounces  of  small  shot 
for  a  duck  load.  It  was  a  common  occurrence,  when 
fired  into  a  drove  of  deer,  to  "bring  down"  three  or 
four.  Deer  were  so  plentiful  that,  in  riding  through 
the  woods,  it  was  rare  to  be  out  of  sight  of  one. 
During  the  winter  and  early  spring  it  was  common 
to  see  as  many  as  thirty  and  forty  in  one  herd.  In 
the  spring  the}-  fed  principally  on  the  young  buds. 
They  would  frequeiit  at  night  the  "new  ground"  to 
feed  upon  the  tender  buds  of  the  small  growth 
which  had  been  cut  down  duriniJ:  the  day.     "Fire- 


in  West  Tennessee.  35 

liiintiiig"  became  a  favorite,  as  well  as  an  easy,  mode 
of  hunting.     I  remember,  one  dark,  cloudy  night, 
"  we  boys  "  had  gone  to  bed,  my  father  hallooed  up 
Jack  from  his  "  quarters "  to  fix  his  pan  and  make 
ready  for  a  fine  hunt  on  the  "new-ground."     "We 
boys"  were  up  and  dressed  in  a  jifty,  not  surprised, 
however,  that  we  could  n't  go,but*to  be  up  and  wait 
the  result  of  the  hunt  until  the  big  gun  fired,  was 
all  we  wanted.     Ofi:'  stalked  Jack,  with  the  fire-pan 
upon  his  shoulder,  my  father  trailing  close  behind 
him,  with  his  long  single-barrel,  "we  boys"  follow- 
ing to  the  front  steps  (the  entrance  to  the  broad  lawn 
in  front  of  the  house  w^as  over  steps  made  of  square 
hewed  logs),  where  we  took  our  seats — (I  might  as 
well  say  here  that  there  were  ^yq  of  "we  boys,"  two 
older  and  two  younger  than  the  writer) — watching 
in  breathless  silence  the  windings  of  the  fire-pan 
through  the  new -ground.     "  There,"  says  the  oldest 
brother,  "they  have  found  eyes.     See  Jack  moving- 
his  pan,  so  as  to  give  father  a  good  sight."     The 
words  were  hardly  uttered  when,  bang!  went  the  old 
long-gun.     1^0  longer  restrained,  we  broke  for  the 
"  fire-pan,"  tumbhng  over  brush  and  poles,  which  for 
the  most  part  covered  the  ground,  the  two  younger 
brothers  crying  out,  now  and  then,  "Stop;  please 
don't  leave  us;   it's  so  dark  we  can't  see."     Coming 
up  to  where  the  fire  was  burning,  upon  a  large 
stump,  we  found  father  and  Jack  dragging  the  deer 
together.    He  had  killed  four  outright,  and  crippled 
or  wounded  others.     The  dogs,  alive  to  what  was 
going  on,  were  there  before  w^e  came  up.     Follow- 
ing the  blood  of  the  wounded,  they  soon  came  up 


36  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

to  two  more  dead,  which  were  dragged  up  to  the 
others.  Half  a  dozen  deer  at  one  shot  seems  in- 
credible. Facts,  however,  are  sometimes  stranger 
than  fiction.  The  deer  were  feeding  upon  the  ten- 
der buds  around  a  newly-made  brush-heap,  standing 
thick  as  sheep  round  a  salt-log.  Beside,  a  discharge 
of  twenty-four  "blue  whistlers"  into  a  herd  of  deer 
such  as  were  then  seen  in  the  wilds  of  the  Big 
Hatchie,  and  particularly  when  standing  circled 
round  a  brush-heap,  from  such  a  gun,  was  but  little 
short  of  the  destructive  projectiles  from  the  "little 
more  grape,  Captain  Bragg,"  against  the  Mexicans. 
The  cart  was  sent  for,  and  the  six  deer  taken  to  the 
house. .  Venison  was  no  rarity,  however;  only  the 
number  of  eyes  that  were  seen,  and  how  thick  they 
stood  round  the  brush-heap,  was  discussed.  We 
were  all  getting  tired — particularly  the  negroes — of 
"blue  jerk.'* 

The  reader  must  bear  with  me  in  owv  personal  his- 
tory; we  have  aught  else  yet  to  write  about.  We 
were  yet  in  the  wilderness — in  a  wilderness  of  game 
. — deer,  bear,  now  and  then  an  elk,  the  wolf,  the 
panther,  wildcat  and  catamount,  and  all  the  various 
sorts  of  "varmints."  We  had  no  neighbors,  and  if 
we  had  had,  there  were  no  roads  leading  to  their 
dwelling-places.  There  were  not  so  many  as  a  half 
dozen  cotemporary  settlers  north  of  the  Big  Hatchie, 
in  Tipton  count}',  and  the  nearest  was  twelve  miles 
off,  by  section  lines.  And  we  had  not  become  ac- 
quainted. It  was  not  until  fall,  when  the  hunting 
season  opened,  that  we  saw  orjield  intercourse  with 
red  or  white  man.     The  county  was  yet  visited  by 


in  West  Tennessee,  37 

bands  of  Chickasaw  hunters,  every  fall  and  winter. 
They  still  regarded  it  as  their  hunting  ground.  My 
narrative,  therefore,  must  he,  for  the  most  part, 
wrouiJ^ht  from  the  wildwoods  and  its  innumerable 
tenants,  in  which  much  of  our  j^ersonal  history  must 
crop  out.  The  general  features  of  the  country  north 
of  the  Hatchie,  except  for  its  richness  of  soil,  giant 
forests,  impenetrable  canebrakes,  tare-blanket  thick- 
ets, grape  and  bamboo  jungles,  and  the  wild  pea- vine 
in  spring  and  summer,  so  thickly  matted — overrun- 
ning the  undergrowth — as  to  impede  travel  on  foot 
or  horseback,  presented  nothing  of  topographical 
interest.  The  same  may  be  said  of  the  country  ex- 
tending to  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  and  Tennessee 
rivers.  It  had  long  been  the  favorite  hunting- 
ground  of  the  Chickasaws  and  pioneer  settlers, 
w^ho  were,  for  the  most  part,  men  of  the  woods,  and 
lived  by  the  chase.  Of  such  were  Davy  Crockett, and 
many  like  him. 


38  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 


CHAPTER  II. 

Early  Settlers  Forming  Neighborhoods — Joe  Seahorn  and 
the  Hog's  Hide — Nancy  and  her  Peril  with  the  Panther — 
Panther  Hunt — The  Road  to  Covington — First  Ferry  in 
Tipton  on  the  Hatchie — Dickens  and  his  Taxes — Old 
Jack. 

Buried,  as  it  were,  in  the  wilderness,  beyond  the 
outskirts  of  busy  civilized  life,  we  lived  in  Quaker 
simplicity.  The  schoolmaster  and  the  preacher  had 
not  yet  arrived  in  the  land — nothing  around  us  to 
imbue  the  young  mind  with  "  a  sense  of  the  vanity 
of  the  world."  Peers  of  the  noblest  of  the  land,  we 
were  a  law  unto  ourselves,  drawing  philosophy  from 
the  shades  of  the  wild  woods  and  the  profusion  of 
wild  flowers  that  decked  the  bosom  of  mother  earth. 
Our  father  dignified  labor  hy  requiring  that  every 
one  should  put  his  "hand  to  the  plow."  The  field 
and  the  neiv  ground  were  the  objects  of  interest. 
During  the  spring  and  summer  mouths  the  settling 
of  our  new  home  went  on  swimmingly.  The  bear 
and  the  hogs  gave  the  only  trouble — was  the  only 
source  of  annoyance.  Their  voracious  appetites  ibr 
hog-meat  often  exceeded  the  vigils  of  the  herds- 
man. Many  were  torn  and  shockingly  lacerated 
before  he,  with  his  dog  and  gun,  could  get  to  their 
relief.  It  may  be  interesting  to  the  reader  to  know 
the  habits  and  mode  of  the  bear  in  })rocuriiig  food. 
They  often  exhibit  more  than  beastly  skill   in  that 


in  West  Tennessee.  39 

particular.  Cautiously  approaching  the  hog,  under 
cover  of  thick  underbrush,  a  large  tree  or  log,  they 
make  their  way  until  within  reach,  w^hen,  rearing 
up  upon  their  hinder  feet,  and  making  a  leap,  the 
hog  is  safe  within  the  folds  of  their  strong  arms. 
Sinking  deep  their  broad  jaws  across  the  hog's  back, 
close  up  to  the  shoulders,  they  go  to  work  to  gratify 
their  greed,  waiting  not  for  the  animal  to  die.  The 
most  timid  of  the  wild  beasts  of  the  woods,  yet, 
when  they  get  a  taste  of  the  blood  of  their  victim, 
they  hold  on  like  grim  death,  often  contending  fear- 
lessly with  man  and  dog  for  their  prey.  It  is  in 
summer  alone  that  they  feed  on  flesh,  upon  which 
they  never  grow  fat.  As  soon  as  the  mast  begins 
to  harden  they  quit  the  fields  and  hog-meat,  and 
soon  begin  to  fatten.  It  is  a  novel  sight  to  see  them 
feeding  in  the  "lappin  season."  This  begins  in  the 
early  fall,  before  the  acorns  begin  to  fall  to  the 
ground.  They  climb  up  the  tallest  oaks  of  the  for- 
est, and  with  their  great  arms  they  gather  the  limbs 
together  as  a  sheaf  of  wheat,  holding  on  to  them 
until  stripped  of  their  fruit.  In  this  way  they  con- 
tinue through  the  lap,  until  the  tree  is  stripped  of 
its  acorns,  or  until  he  gets  his  fill.  B}^  early  winter 
they  become  fat,  in  a  good  mast  year,  and  bouse  up 
for  the  balance  of  the  winter  in  some  secluded 
place,  near  water,  only  coming  out  when  thirsty, 
until  spring.  With  old  bear-hunters,  the  time  for 
them  to  unhouse  themselves  is  when  the  dogwood 
begins  to  blossom;  the  she-bear  brings  out  her 
young  then.  February  is  the  month  for  their  par- 
turition. 


40  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

Soft,  golden,  sunny  September,  when  the  forest  is 
in  the  "  sear  and  the  yellow  leaf,"  with  her  crimson 
sunsets  and  "gray  morn,"  sure  signs  of  the  first 
frost,  is  the  happy  period  of  the  hunter's  life — when 
the  deer  will  have  shed  their  summer  suit,  and  taken 
on  his  winter  graj^  and  blue;  the  antlers  of  the 
noble  buck  dropping  their  soft  velvet  covering,  and 
becoming  hard  and  white;  the  bear  getting  lazy 
from  his  surfeit  of  fat,  and  taking  himself  to  the 
thick  jungle  for  winter  quarters;  the  wild  turkies, 
in  countless  numbers,  flocking  from  the  ridges  to 
the  bottoms.  The  most  inviting  grounds  on  the 
green  earth,  to  the  hunter,  was  the  Big  Hatcliie 
countr}^,  at  the  period  when  my  father  moved  to  it. 
We  marvel  not  that  the  Chickasaws  had  chosen  it 
as  their  favorite  hunting-ground. 

During  the  fall  and  winter  new-comers  began  to 
find  their  way,  and  found  settlements  north  and 
east  of  us,  yet  we  were  without  neighbors,  save  a 
few  squatters  and  occupants.  The  smoke  from  their 
cabins  could  be  seen  rising  up  through  the  dense 
forest  in  many  directions.  Our  nearest  squatter 
neighbor  was  old  Mrs.  Seaborn,  her  son  Joe,  and 
son-in-law  Bill  Barnes.  Joe  and  Bill  were  noted 
for  living  well,  without  ever  being  known  to  work; 
the}^  dressed  well  and  rode  fine  horses,  and  were 
rarel}^  found  at  home.  Where  they  went,  or  what 
they  brought  away,  concerned  but  few,  as  they  were 
not  hemmed  in  by  inquisitive  neighbors.  Joe  was 
no  hunter;  Bill,  however,  was  a  good  bee-hunter. 
The  wild-woods  afforded  an  abundance  of  honey- 
giving  flowers;    beside,  in  the  virgin   freshness  of 


in  West  Tennessee.  41 

the  land,  the  honey-dew  lay  heavy  upon  the  thick 
foliage  during  the  spring  months.  With  Bill 
Barnes,  honey  was  his  only  staple  commodity,  and 
afforded  the  main  support  of  the  Seahorn  family. 
For  the  want  of  vessels  to  put  his  honey  in,  he 
resorted  to  the  digging  of  troughs  in  which  to  keep 
it.  An  occurrence  soon  happened  that  required  him 
to  pre-empt  in  some  other  section  of  the  wild-woods. 
My  father  had  been  missing  some  of  his  fattening 
hogs  at  a  period  of  the  yeir  when  old  Bruin  did 
not  feed  upon  flesh.  Old  Jack,  who  was  the  hog 
minder  and  defender,  was  put  to  look  out  for  signs 
that  would  lead  to  solve  the  mj^steiy  of  the  missing 
hoo^s.  lie  was  not  lons^  in  o^ettin^:  on  the  ric>:ht 
track.  Stalking  through  a  thick  hazlenut  thicket 
near  the  squatters'  cabin,  his  dog  grabbed  up  from 
behind  a  large  log,  the  skin  of  a  hog.  It  proved, 
from  the  iiesh-marks,  to  be  the  skin  of  one  of  the 
missing  hogs.  Cutting  a  polo,  he  hoisted  it  npoii 
his  shoulder  and  brought  it  home.  The  mystery 
of  the  missing  hogs  was  solved.  My  father  sent  for 
Joe  Seahorn,  and  required  from  him  an  explanation 
as  to  how  the  hide  of  one  of  his  hogs  came  to  be 
covered  up  in  the  leaves  near  his  house.  Seaborn 
vowed  his  want  of  knowledg-e  and  total  io'norance 
in  the  matter,  visiting  imprecations  upon  old  Jack's 
head,  swearing  that  the  old  negro  lied  if  he  said 
that  he  found  the  hide  near  his  house,  and  accused 
him  of  being  the  guilty  party,  and  then  laying  it 
upon  him,  to  throw  suspicion  off  from  himself  and 
the  other  negroes.  My  father,  however,  was  in  no 
wise  convinced  of  Seahorn's  innocence.     Negro  tes- 


42  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

timony  being  of  no  avail, he  made  him  to  understand 
that  he  must  tind  an  occupant  claim  in  some  other 
quarter,  more  congenial  to  the  occupation  he  pro- 
posed following.  Seahorn's  hog-stealing  soon  found 
a  place  in  song.  Some  of  the  boys  worked  off  sev- 
eral verses,  which  was  sung  to  the  tune  of  "Harper's 
Creek  and  Roaring  River."  The  following  four  lines 
are  yet  remembered  of  it,  as  it  was  sung  in  the  neigh- 
borhood, by  the  boys  and  negroes: 

"  Joe  Seaborn,  he  stol'd  a  hog, 
The  hide  he  hid  behird  a  log. 
Old  Jack's  d'^g,  he  found  thi  hide, 
And  S-iahorn  swore  that  Ja  k  he  liel." 

Early  on  the  following  morning,  old  Mrs.  Seaborn 
came  over  to  see  my  mother,  to  get  her  to  "  speak 
to  the  'Squire,"  as  she  said,  "  not  to  be  hard  on  my 
boy  Josey."  By  way  of  a  peace- offering,  she  brought 
an  apron-full  of ''nice  dried  peaches,"  which  she  had 
cut  and  dried  with  her  own  hands;  "and,"  says  she, 
"here  is  some  nice,  new  honey.  I  told  the  boys, 
last  spring,  when  they  showed  my  boy  Pinkey  where 
the  white  mare  was,  that  when  Bill  Barnes  cut  a  bee 
tree,  I  would  give  them  a  fill  of  honey;  so  here  it  is. 
I  just  brought  it  along  in  this  gourd;  it's  my  milk 
gourd;  it's  very  nice."  Then  she  appealed  to  my 
mother  to  talk  to  the  'Squire,  and  get  him  not 
to  be  hard  on  Josey.  "  And,"  says  she,  "  we  ain't 
going  to  stay  here  long,  so  I  brought  you  some  of 
the  best  peach-seed  you  ever  did  see;  tliey's  as  yel- 
lew  as  gold,  big  as  your  two  fists,  and,  when  i*ipe, 
you  can  sock  your  thumb  in  them  plumb  to  the 
seed;  they  is  cling-stones.    I  just  thought,"  said  she, 


in 


West  Tennessee.  43 


"I  would  bring  you  them  as  a  friendly  oftering,  and 
something  for  you  all  to  remember  me  by,  for  you 
all  has  been  mighty  kind  to  we  all.  I^^ancy  was  so 
sorry  she  didn't  have  something  to  send  the 'Squire. 
She  talks  so  much  about  his  saving  her  from  being 
eaten  up  by  the  panther.  We  all  love  the  'Squire 
for  his  kind  act  in  saving  ITancy's  life  from  the  jaws 
of  the  ugly  beast.  Do,  pray,  speak  to  the  'Squire 
not  to  be  hard  on  Josey."  My  mother  gave  her  a 
little  coiFee,  which  she  tied  up  in  the  corner  of  her 
apron.  With  man^^  thanks  she  bid  her  good-morn- 
ing, saying,  "Please  do  speak  to  the  'Squire  not  to 
be  hard  on  Josey."  The  circumstance  of  my  father's 
having  saved  little  Kancy  from  a  shocking  death, 
occurred  in  thiswise:  The  squatter's  cabin  was  a 
short  distance  above  the  bluff  spring,  near  the 
creek;  they  got  their  drinking  water  out  of  a  ''wet- 
weather  spring,"  which,  in  dry  weather,  went  dry. 
When  they  had  to  resort  to  the  bluff'  spring  for 
drinking  water,  one  afternoon,  late  in  the  fall,  little 
Nancy  had  been  sent  to  the  bluff*  spring.  The 
path  leading  from  the  squatter's  cabin  meandered 
down  a  deep  ravine  to  where  it  empted  in  the  creek, 
and  thence  down  to  the  spring.  The  little  girl  had 
over-staid  her  time  at  the  spring;  the  shades  of 
evening  were  fast  upon  her.  When  she  started 
back,  tripping  along  until  she  reached  the  mouth  of 
the  ravine,  where  the  path  turned  through  a  dark 
jungle  of  undergrowth  and  over-hanging  vines,  a 
huge  panther  sprang  upon  her.  My  fathei'  happened 
to  be  on  the  hill  above,  where  a  couple  of  negro  men 
were  at  w^ork  on  some  mill  timbers.     Hearing  the 


44  Beminiscences  of  Old  Times 

scream  of  little  IN'aiicy,  whom  he  had  seen  leaving 
the  spring  with  her  gourd  of  water,  he  immediately 
comprehended  that  something  terrible  had  befallen 
her.  The  child's  scream  and  wail  increased  and 
was  heart-rendins:.  He  made  for  her  with  the 
utmost  haste.  The  two  negro  men  followed. 
Luckily,  he  had  his  short,  large-bore  rifle  with  him. 
Reaching  the  mouth  of  the  ravine,  the  scream  of 
the  child  came  from  across  the  creek.  He  noticed 
the  big  gourd  thelittlegirl  was  carrying,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  ravine,  and  quickly  comprehended  the  peril 
she  was  in.  He  ran  across  the  creek  (the  water 
was  shallow),  and  upon  reaching  the  top  of  the 
bank,  he  discovered  a  large  panther,  just  entering 
the  thick  cane,  fast  hold  of  little  ^N'ancy,  in  the  act 
of  dragging  her  over  a  large  log.  The  panther  had 
just  mounted  the  log,  holding  on  to  Nancy  by  the 
arm  close  up  to  her  shoulder.  Showing  his  broad 
side,  quick  as  thought,  a  well-aimed  bullet  was  sent 
through  his  heart.  At  the  crack  of  the  rifle,  the 
panther  sunk  upon  the  log  quivering  in  death. 
The  two  negro  men  were  at  my  father's  back  when 
he  fired,  running  up  wdth  their  axes  (seeing  that  the 
monster  still  held  on  to  the  little  girl's  arm),  to  give 
him  the  final  blow.  The  panther  was  dead,  yet  her 
great  jaws  were  fast  hold  of  Nancy's  arm,  and  had 
to  be  prized  open  to  relieve  her.  Her  little  arm 
was  shockingly  larcerated  and  torn ;  otherwise, 
save  some  slight  scratches,  she  was  unhurt.  It  was 
a  she  panther,  and  her  aim  was  to  drag  the  child 
alive  to  her  den,  wliere  she  had  her  young.  The  men 
cut  a   grape  vine,   noosed  it  around   the  panther's 


in  Wist  Tennessee.  45 

neck,  and  dragged  it  home,  while  my  father  took 
little  l^ancy  in  charge  to  her  mother.  It  Avas  for 
thus  rescuing  little  JSTancy  from  the  jaws  of  death 
that  old  Mrs.  Seahorn  had  expressed  herself  so 
grateful.  Hardly  had  they  gotten  across  the  creek, 
when,  in  the  thick  cane  behind  them,  rang,  with  the 
wild  shrieks  and  yells  of  a  panther,  the  mate  of  the 
old  she  just  killed.  He  had  doubtless  been  standing 
guard  to  the  young  cubs,  sharpening  his  teeth  upon 
hearing  the  screams  of  the  child,  and  ready  for  the 
slaughter.  His  disappointment,  and  absence  of  his 
companion,  had  brought  forth  his  terrific  yells. 

My  father  decided  that  night  to  give  the  old  gentle- 
man panther  a  warming  the  next  morning.  He  was 
certain  to  be  found  near  the  den,  watching  over  the 
cubs,  and  waiting  the  return  of  their  dam.  Every 
arrangement  was  made  for  the  hunt.  My  two  eldest 
brothers  had  killed  their  deer.  The  next-  to  the 
oldest  had  become  an  expert  hunter.  Life  in  the 
woods,  with  rifle  in  hand,  he  greatly  preferred  to 
the  "  plow  handles."  He  was  a  splendid  shot  with 
all,  never  failing  to  bring  down  his  gobbler  at  long 
range.  The  old  long,  single  barrel,  the  short,  large 
bore  (called  a  Yorger),  and  the  little  rifle,  running 
sixty  bullets  to  the  pound,  were  all  the  guns  my 
father  had.  Old  Jack,  who  generally  formed  one  of 
the  party  in  a  hunt,  and  who  was  a  pretty  good  shot, 
was  sent  over  to  Mrs.  Seahorn's  to  borrow  Bill 
Barnes'  rifle.  (Joe  and  Bill  Barnes  were  absent  at 
the  time.)  By  sun-up  we  were  all  across  the  creek 
(I  was  permitted  to  go  along  to  see  the  young  cubs 
as  well  as  the  fun).    Beaching  the  log  upon  which  the 


46  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

old  she  was  killed  the  evening  before,  the  dogs 
dashed  off  on  a  running  trail  in  the  direction  she 
was  aiming  to  drag  her  prey.  To  pursue  with 
rapidity  was  impossible;  the  thick  cane  and  jungle 
was,  for  the  most  part,  impenetrable,  and  but  for  the 
openings  caused  by  the  rotting  out  of  the  fallen  trees, 
it  would  have  been  impossible  for  man  to  have 
gotten  through  it.  "Hark!  hark!"  says  my  father, 
"  the  days  have  come  to  a  hay  ;  keep  a  sharp  look  out 
boys."  The  sharp,  angry  bark  of  the  dogs  impelled 
the  hunters  forward  as  rapidly  as  they  could  go.  Get- 
ting close  up,  warning  was  given  to  "  keep  a  sharp 
look  out."  Soon  we  came  upon  them  surrounding  a 
large  "clay-root,"  their  hair  erect,  barking  most 
fiercely.  "List!  list!!  boys,  the  old  fellow  is 
crouched  some  where  near ;  keep  a  sharp  look  out." 
Just  then  old  Jack  had  gotten  within  a  few  feet  of 
the  clay-root;  when  my  father  noticed  it,  from  the 
crouched  position  of  one  of  the  dogs,  and  his  fierce 
gaze  through  the  opening  of  the  cane  overhead,  he 
called  to  him,  "  Look  out.  Bull  sees  him."  Simulta- 
neously with  the  quick  spoken  words  of  warning  to 
old  Jack,  came  the  sharp  crack  of  the  little  rifie, 
and  with  it  the  sprawl  of  Jack,  and  the  panther 
upon  him.  Li  an  instant  the  dogs  covered  both 
Jack  and  the  panther.  The  moment  was  terrific 
and  painful,  until  the  negro  began  to  crawl  out  from 
under  the  dead  monster.  The  next  to  the  eldest 
brother,  quickly  comprehending  the  situation,  in  his 
eagerness  to  get  the  first  shot,  had  slipped  around  to 
the  body  of  the  large  fallen  tree,  where  he  could 
get  a  full  view  of  the  "  clay-root,"  which  rose  above 


in  West  Tennessee.  47 

the  bending  cane,  discovering  tlie  panther  crouched 
upon  a  large  root,  intently  watching  the  movementa 
of  the  dogs  below.  Quick  as  thouglit,  his  rifle  was 
well-aimed  and  fired,  sending  his  bullet  through  his 
heart;  in  his  death  leap,  he  sprang  upon  Jack.  He 
was  the  monster  panther  of  the  woods  ;  his  full 
length  stretched  out  upon  the  ground,  was  eleven 
feet  two  inches  from  the  tip  of  his  nose  to  the  end 
of  his  tail.  The  entrance  to  the  den  of  the  old 
she  was  under  the  clay-root,  in  the  hollow  of  the 
fallen  tree,  large  enough  for  the  dogs  to  enter  and 
pass  in  for  many  feet.  The  cubs  had  got  into  the 
hollow  beyond  their  reach.  Dry  sticks  and  faggots 
were  procured,  a  fire  built  up  in  the  entrance  of  the 
den,  and  the  cubs  left  to  their  fate. 

My  father,  the  fall  of  the  first  year  he  settled  in 
the  wilderness,  surveyed  out  and  cut  a  road  through 
the  Hatchie  bottom,  and  established  the  first  ferry 
on  the  Hatchie,  below  McGuire's,  in  Haywood. 
There  was  then  a  continuous  road  from  Browns- 
ville to  Covington,  and  became  the  principal  road 
of  travel  between  ihd  two  places,  and  my  father's 
house  the  only  habitation  on  the  road,  which  of 
necessity  became  a  "house  of  entertainment."  The 
most  frequent  travel  was  by  exploring  parties,  look- 
ing after  and  locating  land  for  future  settlement. 

An  amusing  incident  occurred  soon  after  my 
father  commenced  taking  in  travelers,  which  may  find 
interest  with  the  reader.  Some  half  dozen  well 
dressed  gentlemen  rode  up  one  night,  while  the  fam- 
ily were  at  supper,  and  asked  to  "  stay  all  night." 
They  were  ushered  in  the  best  room,  where  a  blaz- 


48  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

ing  fire  was  burning.  It  was  winter,  and  the  night 
cold.  Supper  was  ordered  for  "six  hungry  men," 
who  hadn't  "eat  a  mouthful  since  early  morn." 
Word  was  soon  conveyed  to  my  mother  that  they 
were  real,  nice,  broadcloth  gentlemen.  Of  course, 
something  extra  nice  was  in  rapid  course  of  prepara- 
tion. The  servants  and  everybody  spread  them- 
selves. The  children,  you  know,  couldn't  be  kept 
out  of  sight ;  they  were  bound  to  see  the  fine  stran- 
gers. [N'ew  jackets  and  clean  white  aprons  were  put 
on,  and  the  servants  required  to  put  on  clean  frocks. 
My  mother  got  out  her  best  damask.  The  new  tea 
tray  and  china  were  brought  into  requisition.  Pre- 
serves, in  glass  dishes,  were  arranged  upon  the  table. 
A  fresh  cake  of  butter  was  fixed  up  most  tastily,  in 
"  pine  apple  shape,"  and  graced  the  center  of  the 
table,  and  the  last  two  sperm  candles,  stuck  in  the 
tall  silver  candle-sticks,  were  lighted,  and  the  guests 
invited  in  to  supper.  My  mother,  with  her  new 
"turban"  on,  had  taken  her  seat  at  the  head  of  the 
table,  behind  the  new  tea-tray  and  glittering  service. 
The  party  entering  the  dining-room  (a  shed  room 
boarded  up  with  clapboards)  were  led  by  a  tall  and 
stately  silver-haired  gentleman.  Advancing  to  the 
chair  assigned  him,  he  paused,  resting  his  hand 
upon  the  back,  with  a  fixed  gaze  at  my  mother, 
whose  eyes  were  also  riveted  upon  him.  A  mutual 
recognition  followed,  he  advancing  as  she  rose  to 
meet  him.^  Her  features  expressing  a  pleasant  sur- 
prise, she  exclaimed,  "Colonel  William  Polk,  of 
i^orth  Carolina!"  and  extended  her  hand.  "And 
this  is  Mrs,  Patsy  Seawell ,"  said  the  Colonel, 


in  West  Tennessee.  49 

clasping  her  hand  in  both  of  his.  "  My  dear  madam, 
this  is  the  most  joyous  meeting  since  I  left  our  na- 
tive State."  My  father,  who  had  stepped  out  to  give 
some  orders  about  their  horses,  stepped  in  just  then, 
and,  recognizing  each  other,  a  general  introduction 
went  the  rounds. 

Colonel  William  Polk  (father  of  the  late  Right 
Reverend  Bishop  Polk)  and  my  mother  were  famil- 
iarly acquainted  in  their  young  days.  Their  meet- 
ing was  most  unexpected  to  both  of  them.  He, 
with  a  party  of  young  men,  w^ere  exploring  the  coun- 
try and  looking  after  their  landed  interests.  With 
the  party  was  young  Dickens,  son  of  Colonel  Dick- 
ens, of  Madison.  His  business  seemed  to  be  to  pay 
the  taxes  on  the  large  landed  interests  of  his  father, 
and  possibly  to  make  further  investments  in  lands. 
With  less  mother  wit  than  good  looks  and  fine 
clothes,  he  talked  much  of  a  roll  of  United  States 
bills  he  carried  about  his  person,  which  he  called 
his  "taxes."  A  young  Seawell,  son  of  the  late 
Judge  Seawell,  of  Raleigh,  ^orth  Carolina,  was  of 
the  party.  Seawell  was  a  great  tease,  and  wonder- 
fully fond  of  a  good  joke.  Young  Dickens  was  the 
butt  of  the  party,  easily  quizzed,  and  afforded  great 
merriment.  Whenever  the  conversation  would  re- 
lax, Seawell  or  some  member  of  the  party  would 
ask  him  to  feel  for  his  "taxes."  He  would  run 
his  hand  around  under  his  vest  and  announce  that 
"they  were  all  safe."  To  sleep  the  party  it  was 
necessary  to  have"^" pallets"  made  down  on  the  floor 
of  the  best  room.  Yoqng  Dickens  was  the  first  to 
lay  down.  Taking  ofi'his  coat  and  vest,he  stretched 
3  ^  ' 


50  Reminiscenees  of  Old  Times 

himself  out  onhis  pallet,  while  his  companions  re- 
mained lip  cracking  jokes.  He  soon  fell  asleep, 
when  Seawell  suggested  a  practical  joke  upon  the 
innocent  sleeper,  who,  in  turning  over  upon  his 
side,  exposed  to  view  the  red  morocco  belt  contain- 
ing his  "taxes."  The  belt  was  cautiously  taken 
from  around  his  body.  Dickens  snored  away^  and 
the  rest  of  the  party  retired  for  the  night.  Dick- 
ens was  the  first  to  rise  in  the  morning.  Finding 
a  rousing  fire  burning  in  the  broad  fire-place,  he 
bounced  up  from  his  pallet.  His  first  care  vvas  to 
feel  for  his  "  taxes."  The  belt  was  gone.  He  cried 
aloud,  "My  taxes!  My  taxes!  By  thunder,  where 
is  my  taxes?"  With  one  leap  he  was  at  the  door, 
holding  on  to  old  Jack's  coat-tail.  Jack  had  just 
finished  making  the  fire,  and  was  leaving  the  room, 
with  the  gentlemen's  boots  under  his  arm.  Young 
Dickens  jerked  him  back  in  the  room  and  com- 
menced a  search  in  his  pockets  for  his  money-belt, 
crying  out  in  a  wailing  voice,  "My  taxes!  My 
taxes ! "  Jack  protested  and  declared  that  he  didn't 
have  them,  until  he  began  to  get  a  little  worried, 
when  he  said:  "  De  Lord  bless  me,  mister,  dis  nigger 
don't  know  nothin'  'bout  your  tacks.  What  you 
think  he  wants  wid  your  tacks!  Bless  me,  mister, 
master's  got  plenty  tacks!"  "You  old  fool,"  said 
Dickens,  "I  don't  mean  tacks — taxes!  money,  in  a 
red  morocco  belt  I  buckled  around  me  when  I  went 
to  bed  last  night.  When  I  got  up  this  morning, 
it  was  gone.  ^N'obody  has  been  in  this  room  but 
you."  "Oh!  aha!  Money,  you  say;  money  in  red 
morocco  belt!     IS'o,  sir!     Dis  nigger  knows  nothin' 


ill  West  Tennessee.  51 

bont  it.  Yoii  got  hold  de  wrong  nigger  diis  time; 
dat  you  have."  In  the  mean  time  the  whole  party 
were  awake,  and  enjoying  the  scene  before  them. 
Dickens,  not  iinding  his  taxes  npon  the  person  of 
Jack,  and  becoming  overpowered  with  a  sense  of 
his  loss,  sunk  down  in  the  nearest  chair  and  boo- 
hooed  outright.  Seawell's  sympathies  were  touched. 
lie  arose  from  an  adjoining  bed,  picking  up  the 
counterpane  off  of  the  pallet  Dickens  had  slept  on. 
He  gave  it  a  shake,  and  out  fell  the  red  morocco  belt. 
The  young  man  sprang  to  it.  Picking  it  up,  he 
burst  out  into  a  half  laugh  and  cry  of  joy,  saying, 
"  What  a  fool  I  was."  Jack  returned  soon  with  the 
gentleman's  boots.  Dickens  said  to  him  that  he 
was  only  joking,  pitching  him  a  silver  half  dollar. 
*'  Thankee,  thankee !  This'U  buy  me  more'n  tacks 
enough  to  make  me  two  pairs  of  .shoes." 


52  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 


CHAPTER  III. 

JVeigliborhoods  Forming — Thomas  Durham,  Founder  of 
Durhamville — Johnny  Bradford, —  Thomas  Thompson, 
Esq. — D.  C.  Bussell — The  First  Frame  Bouse — Jacob 
Nisumnger — William  Murphey,  the  JIatter,  and  his 
Black  Snakes — Josepji  Wardloiv — Stephen  Childress — 
Thomas  Childress —  William  Turner  and  Parson  Collins 
—  Their  First  Night  in  the  Big  Hatchie  Country — Arthur 
Davis,  the  Pioneer  Preacher — First  School-house  in 
Tipton  North  of  Hatchie — Old  Man  Larkin  Gaines,  the 
First  Schoolmaster. 

The  succeeding  and  following  year  witnessed  the 
rapid  settling  up  of  the  country  north  and  north- 
east of  us.  ^Neighborhoods  had  begun  to  form;  the 
schoolmaster  and  the  preacher  had  found  their 
way  in  the  land.  Thomas  Durham,  who  was  our 
first  militia  Colonel  in  Tipton,  north  of  Hatchie, 
founded  a  settlement  on  the  high  hill,  where  the 
village  of  Durhamville,  which  took  his  name,  now 
stands.  Honest  Johnny  Bradford  found  his  way 
from  Illinois, 'and  settled  below  Durham's,  on  the 
head  waters  of  Williams'  creek,  where  he  spent  his 
last  and  best  days. 

Thomas  Thompson  and  the  Russells  moved  in 
from  ^orth  Carolina,  and  settled  on  the  waters  of 
Fisher's  and  Garner's  creeks,  and  became  the  nucleus 
of  the  settlemenPnorth  of  Williams'  creek.  David 
C.    Russell    had    built    the   first    framed   house   in 


in  West  Tennessee.  53 

TiDtoii  north  of  Hatcliie;  it  was  built  in  1827 
by  the  two  young  Adams,  who  came  to  the  settle- 
ment with  William  Turner  and  Parson  Collins. 
The  two  young  men  (brothers)  sawed  out  with  a 
whipsaw^  tlie  lumber  with  which  they  built  the 
house — the  whipsaw,  for  many  years,  supplied  all 
the  lumber  that  was  used.  The  Gillilands  came  in 
from  Pennsylvania  a  few  years  after,  and  purchased 
the  house  of  Russell,  and  built  a  mill  on  what  was 
then  called  Fisher's  creek,  which  afterwards  was 
called  Gilliland's  creek,  by  which  name  it  is  yet 
known.  They  established  the  first  store  of  any  note 
in  Tipton  north  of  Hatchie;  men  of  enterprise  and 
business  tact,  they  established  the  first  store  on 
*' Hurricane  Hill,"  and  contributed  largely  to  the 
interest  and  prosperity  of  the  neighborhood. 

Thomas  Thompson  was  the  first  magistrate  in 
Tipton  north  of  Hatchie,  and  a  member  of  the 
County  Court  for  many  3^ears.  A  worthy  and  most 
excellent  good  citizen,  he  ever  maintained  the 
dignity  and  high  respect  due  his  court,  by  which  he 
was  enabled  to  command  the  respect  and  aid  of  all 
good  citizens  in  quelling  an  outbreak,  which  rarely 
failed  to  occur  on  all  public  occasions. 

The  writer  remembers  to  have  heard  related  an 
amusing  account  of  the  w^ay  the  law  was  executed 
in  those  days.  The  'Squire  usually  held  his  courts 
on  Saturdays.  At  the  same  time  and  place  it  was 
usual  for  the  settlement  to  arrange  for  a  "  shooting- 
match."  While  his  court  was  in  session,  a  fight 
grew  up  between  Joe  Seaborn  and  another  neigh- 
bor.    The  'Squire  ordered  that  the  offending  parties 


54  -Rcni'umct'tices  of  Old  Times 

be  brought  before  him.  Seahorn,  who  was  giiiUy 
of  the  assault  and  batter}-,  took  to  his  heels,  when 
he  saw  the  officer  coming;  finding  that  he  would  be 
overtaken,  he  took  a  tree,  and  up  it  he  went  to  the 
top.  The  officer  commanded  that  he  come  down; 
he  defiantly  refused,  and'  dared  the  officer  to  "come 
up  and  take  him."  Thinking  himself  safe,  he 
crowed  like  a  cock  upon  his  tallest  perch.  The 
officer,  resolute  and  fertile  of  expedients,  sent  for  an 
axe — one  was  close  at  hand — with  which.he  went  to 
work  to  cut  him  down.  When  the  tree  began  to 
crack  and  show  signs  of  falling,  Joe  began  to  think 
the  matter  getting  serious,  and  hallooed  out  to  "hold 
on,"  that  he  "surrendered,"  that  he  Avould  come 
down.  The  officer  hallooed  back  for  him  to  "hold 
on,"  that  the  tree  would  soon  be  down,  and  w-hacked 
away.  Joe  could  stand  it  no  longer.  When  the 
tree  began  to  crack  and  shake,  down  he  slid,  strik- 
ing the  ground  as  the  tree  left  the  stump.  The 
officer,  with  hi3  jwsse,  seized  him,  and  marched 
him  up  before  the  'Squire,  who  ordered  that  he  be 
held  in  close  confinement  until  the  shooting-match 
was  over.  The  officer,  wishing  to  take  his  chance 
at  shooting  for  a  quarter  of  beef,  and  there  being 
no  strong  place  at  hand  in  which  to  confine  the 
prisoner,  sought  a  cart  body  which  lay  convenient, 
and  put  him  under  it,  and  with  the  aid  of  the  by- 
standers, brought  a  heavy  log  and  weighted  it  down  ; 
thus  Joe  was  kept  closely  caged  until  the  shooting- 
match  was  over.  The  other  party  was  let  off  with 
an  apology  on  his  part,  and  a  reprimand  from  the 
court. 


in  WeM  Tevnrssee.  55 

•  

Cotemporary  with  the  settlements   on  Williams' 

and  Fisher's  creeks,  Captain  Stephen  Childress 
settled  in  the  thick  woods  six  or  more  miles  helow, 
on  a  creek,  which  took  his  name,  where  he  opened 
a  large  plantation.  The  Captain  lived  bnt  a  few 
years.  His  widow,  who  was  the  sister  of  Thomas 
H.  and  Jesse  Benton,  with  a  large  family,  survived 
him  many  years.  Thomas  Childress,  son  of  Cap- 
tain Stephen,  with  his  beautiful  young  wife,  settled 
in  the  woods  near  his  father's  the  same  year.  He  is 
yet  living  near  where  he  first  settled,  and  is,  I 
believe,  the  only  surviving  Childress  of  the  old 
stock.  He  yet  maintains,  under  the  weight  of 
many  years,  an  elastic  step  and  the  dignity  of  his 
race. 

The  year  following,  old  man  Jacob  Niswanger,  and 
his  son-in-law,  Joseph  Wardlow,  moved  in  from 
South  Carolina,  and  opened  up  a  large  plantation 
on  Garner's  creek.  The  same  year,  and  from  the 
same  State,  came  old  man  Larkin  Gaines,  and  his 
sons,  Pendleton,  Powell  and  Abner.  Pew  "new- 
comers" contributed  more  to  the  interest  and 
advancement  of  the  settlement,  than  Mswanger  and 
Waldron  The  old  man  Jacob,  a  man  of  many 
eccentricities  of  character,  was  a  genius  with  all. 
Everything  needed  or  useful  in  the  economic  man- 
agement of  his  affairs  bore  marks  of  his  handy- 
work.  By  his  probity  and  industry  he  amassed  a 
fortune.  A  hatter  by  trade,  he  kept  up  his  shop  as 
long  as  he  lived.  He  brought  old  man  Murphey 
with  him  from  South  Carolina,  who  was  long  noted 
for  being  the  best  maker  of  hats  in  West  Tennessee, 


56  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

■WilliaiD  Murphey  had  his  idiosyncrasies.  Those 
of  us  who  knew  him  when  we  w^ere  bo^'s  yet 
remember  him  and  his  black  snakes  with  an  amus- 
insr  interest.  The  only  instance  known  of  the 
snake's  being  cultivated  and  utilized  is  perhaps 
due  to  William  Murphey,  the  hatter.  He  found 
them  better  mousers  than  the  house  cat,  and  intro- 
duced them  into  his  shop  for  the  protection  of  his 
furs  and  newly  made  hats.  On  a  warm  sunshiny 
day,  you  would  see  them  coiled  up  in  every  crack 
and  nitch  in  his  shop,  with  their  black  eyes  glistening 
like  so  many  newly  opened  chinquepins.  They 
kept  his  shop  free  of  rats  and  mice.  It  is  human 
to  be  afraid  of  snakes.  They  answered  him  a  good 
purpose  in  keeping  away  the  meddlesome  boys. 
An  amusing  as  well  as  a  thrilling  incident  occurred 
to  the  old  gentleman  soon  after  he  arrived  in  the 
settlement.  He  had  strolled  out  one  day  in  the 
"  new  ground"  on  a  snake  hunt.  He  soon  scared  up, 
in  the  thick  brush,  a  monster  black  snake,  and  made 
for  it.  The  snake  being  pressed  hard  for  a  hiding 
place,  took  to  a  hole  in  the  end  of  a  hollow  pole. 
He  carefully  stopped  up  the  entrance  to  the  hollow, 
and  shouldering  it,  he  started  for  the  shop.  He 
had  gone  but  a  short  distance,  w^ien  he  began  to 
experience  a  choking  sensation;  the  snake  had 
found  his  way  out  at  another  hole,  and  thrown  him- 
self around  the  old  hatter's  neck.  It  being  a  large 
and  powerful  snake,  lie  was  unable  to  extricate 
himself.  With  difficulty  he  was  able  to  call  for 
help.  Lucidly  several  negro  men  were  at  work 
close  by,  who,  discovering  the  perilous  fix  tlie  old 


in  West  Tennessee.  57 

man  was  in,  ran  to  his  relief.  It  was  only  with 
their  knives  that  they  could  prevent  strangulation^ 
by  cutting  ther*  monster  loose.  The  old  gentleman 
was  very  thankful  for  the  timely  help,  but  sorely 
regretted  to  lose  so  fine  a  rat-catcher. 

Joseph  Wardlow  built  his  first  house  at  the  big 
spring,  forming  the  head  of  Garner's  creek,  and 
afterward  made  his  permanent  settlement  below  his 
father-in-law's,  near  the  same  creek,  where  he 
resided  until  the  county  of  Lauderdale  was  formed 
in  1836,  when  he  fixed  his  residence  at  Eipley,  the 
newly  located  county  site,  building  the  first  house 
in  the  place.  He  continued  his  residence  in  Ripley 
until  his  death,  which  occurred  in  1863,  in  the 
seventieth  year  of  his  age.  His  name,  long  inti- 
mately connected  and  associated  with  the  rise  and 
progress  of  Lauderdale,  as  among  the  fathers  of 
the  county,  is  perpetuated  in  his  noble  sons,  who,  of 
the  present  day,  stand  among  its  most  worthy  and 
prominent  citizens. 

The  Fishers,  Blackwells,  Doctor  Abner  Phillips, 
and  others  worthy  of  mention,  were  cotemporary 
in  the  Thompson-Russell  settlement. 

The  settlement  to  the  east  and  south  of  Durham- 
ville  was  formed  by  Matthew  Pickett,  Johnn}^ 
Stone,  William  Turner,  Kent  Penic,  Estes  and 
others,  many  of  whose  decendants  yet  cultivate  the 
land,  and  reside  on  the  homes  of  their  fathers. 

Among  those  of  the  pioneer  and  early  immigrant 
settlers,  whose  long  and  useful  life  is  yet  spared  to 
recount  the  perils  and  hardships  of  pioneer  life  in 
the  Big  Hatchie  country,  none  is    more  worthy  a 


58  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

page  in  these  semi-historic  reminiscences  than 
William  Turner — Uncle  Billy,  as  he  is  familiarly 
and  reverentially  called — who,  in  the  -spring-time  of 
manhood,  with  his  young  and  newly  married  wife, 
in  compan}^  with  several  of  his  neighbors,  cut  loose 
their  moorings  from  the  shores  of  their  native  land, 
Kentucky,  and  floated  out  the  Barron  river  into 
the  Green,  and  down  the  Ohio  into  the  Mississippi, 
landing  at  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Ilatchie,  in  the 
month  of  February,  in  the  year  1827,  in  search  of 
a  home  in  a  wild,  and,  to  him,  an  unknown  land. 

His  companions  were  Parson  lieson  B.  Collins, 
Charles  Cullin,  and  two  young  men  named  Adams. 
Heading  the  prow  of  their  keel,  with  all  their  earthly 
goods,  up  the  Hatchie,  they  poled  away  until  they 
reached  a  point  of  high  land  interesting  to  look  at. 
Dividing  iii  search  of  a  place  upon  which  to  locate, 
two  took  to  the  woods  north  of  the  river,  and  two 
south,  the  fifth  remaining  with  the  "women  folks" 
on  the  boat. 

Billy  Turner  and  Parson  Collins  took  to  the 
north  side,  and  struck  out  for  the  hills,  and  soon 
become  lost  in  the  woods.  Boguelug  about  all  day, 
they  found  themselves,  at  nightfall,  on  a  high  bluff, 
overlooking  the  tops  of  the  tall  trees  to  the  north 
and  west.  They  stood  upon  the  Cole  creek  bluffs, 
ten  or  more  miles  away  from  their  boat,  bewildered 
in  a  wilderness  of  wild  beasts.  Thoy  brought  a  halt 
to  gather  in  their  confused  thoughts.  Turner  pro- 
posed that  they  strike  a  fire  and  wait  till  morning. 
The  Parson  opposed  it,  expressing  his  fears  that 
they  would  be  eaten  up  during  the  night  by  wild 


in  West  Tennessee.  59 

beasts.  The  brave-hearted  Turner  went  to  work, 
however,  and  gathered  dry  wood,  builtna  tire  and 
resolved  to  spend  the  night.  Tired,  and  without 
food,  he  rolled  himself  up  rpon  the  ground  to 
sleep.  Hardly  had  he  fallen  to  sleep,  when  the 
Parson  aroused  him,  saying  that  he  could  hear  "the 
tramp  of  the  wild  beasts;"  that  he  could  hear 
them  " snapping  and  sharpening  their  teeth;"  that 
they  would  be  "eaten  up  alive  before  morning;" 
that  he  must  get  up  and  they  would  "watch 
together." 

Billy,  thinking  that  he  ought  to  pray  as  well  as 
watch,  turned  over  and  dropped  to  sleep  again.     He 
w^as  again  aroused  from  his  slumbers  by  the  Parson 
saying   that    he   was    dying   of  thirst;    that   if  he 
didn't  get  some  water  soon  he  would  die.     What  to 
do,  or  where  to  find  water  for  his  frightened,  fever- 
ished  companion,  was  a  puzzle.     Something  had  to 
be  done,  however,  or  he  would  die  of  fright  and 
thirst.     So   he   got    up    and    commenced   lool-dng 
about  for  water;  none  could  be  found,  unless  it  be 
under   the    bluff,  which   it   seemed    impossible   to 
reach.     To  save  life, however,  they  commenced  slid- 
ing  down,   holding   on  to   such  twigs   and  rough 
places  as  they  could  feel;  they  were  in  utter  dark- 
ness.    Down  they  went,  however,  the  Parson  ahead, 
until  they  struck  the  bank  of  the  creek.     But  how 
should  he  get  to  the  water?     The  bank  was  perpen- 
dicular.    The  cane  stood  thick  and  heavy  upon  the 
bank,  bending   over  to   the  surface    of  the   water. 
Tlie  only  way  to  get  to  the  w^ater  was  to  slide  down 
on  the  cane.     So  down  the  Parson  crawled  on  top 


60  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

of  the  bending  cane  until  his  burning  face  came  in 
contact  with  the  cold  water.  Reviving  from  his 
fright,  and  slaking  his  thirst,  his  trouble  was  to  get 
back  from  his  perilous  situation,  which  he  had  just 
began  to  realize.  His  friend  Billy  could  render 
him  no  assistance,  nor  could  he  see  him,  with  his 
heels  cocked  up  in  the  air,  and  his  head  touching 
the  water,  for  the  black  darkness  that  reigned 
under  the  bluiF.  After  many  efforts  and  almost 
superhuman  exertion,  the  Parson  succeeded  in 
reversing  his  position,  and  getting  his  head  up,  he 
pulled  himself  to  shore.  They  got  back  to  the  fire 
again — how,  the  narrator  says,  was  impossible  to 
tell.  It  was  thus  they  spent  their  first  ni^ht  in  the 
Big  Hatchie  country. 

When  the  morning  came,  they  were  at  a  loss  to 
know  which  direction  to  take  to  get  back  to  the 
boat.  From  the  high  bluff  the  Parson  heard  a 
chicken  crow.  He  became  almost  crazed  with  de- 
light, and  told  Billy  that  it  was  his  rooster  on  the 
boat.  Taking  out  his  pocket-compass,  he  took  the 
course.  After  several  hours  travel,  they  reached 
the  boat,  satisfied  with  the  Cole  creek  hills.  Cullen 
and  one  of  the  Adams  boys  had  come  in  from  their 
exploration  on  the  south  side,  and  reported  un- 
favorably. 

They  went  to  work  and  poled  higher  up,  reaching 
Childress'  landing,  where  they  made  fast,  and  blazed 
their  way  up  to  the  Thompson  and  Russell  settle- 
ment. The  year  after  "Uncle  Billy"  moved  over 
and  settled  on  Camp  creek;  a  favorite  camping 
creek  with  the  Chickasaws,  and  from  which  circum- 


in  West  Tennessee.  61 

stance  it  took  its  name.  For  many  years  he  enjoyed 
himself  with  the  Indians,  when  they  would  come  in 
on  their  fall  hunts.  He  has  told  the  writer,  that  he 
has  counted  as  many  as  thirty  deer,  brought  to  their 
camp  of  a  morning  before  the  frost  had  left  the 
ground.  He  still  resides  where  he  first  made  his 
permanent  settlement  in  Tipton,  now  Lauderdale, 
forty-five  years  ago.  Few  men  have  lived  so  long 
and  blameless  a  life  as  Uncle  Billy  Turner;  noted 
for  his  many  Christian  virtues,  he  is  venerated  and 
esteemed  by  the  community  in  which  he  lives,  and 
highly  respected  by  all  who  know  him. 

As  a  pioneer  preacher.  Parson  Reson  B.  Collins 
proved  himself  unequal  to  the  task.  After  a  severe 
spell  of  fever,  his  mind  lost  its  balance,  and  his 
friends  prevailed  on  him  to  move  back  to  Kentucky, 
which  he  did,  after  remaining  a  couple  of  years. 

The  man  for  the  times,  and  suited  to  the  work, 
soon  made  his  appearance  in  the  land,  in  the  person 
of  Arthur  Davis,  who,  lacking  nothing  in  moral 
worth,  or  physical  courage,  came  with  the  broad 
banner  of  his  Master's  kingdom  in  one  hand,  and 
the  broad  sword  in  the  other.  He  came  preaching 
that  the  wolf  shall  dwell  Avith  the  lamb — that  the 
*' weaned  child  shall  put  his  hand  on  the  cockatrice's 
den" — that  man  was  born  to  a  "  higher  and  brighter 
civilization."  Few  men  knew  better  how  to  take 
the  "bull  by  the  horns,"  or  win  to  his  Master's 
kingdom  a  sinner's  soul.  Fond  of  pioneer  life,  he 
gloried  in  being  called  to  preach  in  the  wilderness. 
The  writer  is  indebted  to  an  old  friend  of  Reverend 
Mr.  Davis  for  many  thrilling  incidents,  illustrative 


6'2  Rcwhdsccnces  of  Old  Times 

of  the  moral  and  physical  heroism  of  the  man.  In 
the  early  settlement  of  the  country,  and  before  tVie 
building  of  churches,  even  with  round  logs,  Mr. 
Davis  made  an  appointment  that  he  would  preach 
at  a  certain  school-house,  on  a  certain  day,  in  the 
vicinity  of  Denmark.  A  band  of  outlaws^  living  in 
the  settlement,  seeing  the  notice  sticking  up  in  the 
neighborhood,  give  it  out  that  "no  d — d  Methodist 
preacher  should  preach  in  that  house,"  and  if  Mr. 
D.  attempted  to  fill  his  appointment,  they  would 
give  him  a  sound  drubbing.  When  he  came  to  fill 
his  appointment,  he  was  informed  of  the  threats, 
and  advised  that  his  life  would  be  in  danger  it  he 
undertook  to  preach.  He  paid  no  attention  to  their 
fears,  and  heeded  not  their  advice,  but  went  to  his 
appointment.  On  reaching  the  place,  he  found  the 
log-house  already  filled  with  the  anxious  and  curi- 
ous of  the  neighborhood,  and  the  regulators  stand- 
ing apart  with  their  sticks  and  clubs.  He  passed 
in,  and  up  to  the  place  assigned  as  a  temporary 
pulpit.  Inclining  his  head  as  a  mark  of  respect  to 
the  congregation,  he  paused  and  surveyed,  with  a 
penetrating  eye,  every  member  of  the  assembled 
neighborhood.  N'ot  a  man  of  them  did  he  know. 
He  opened  service,  took  his  t(ixt,  and  preached. 
After  the  service  was  over,  he  announced  an 
appointment,  "  Providence  permitting,"  to  preach  at 
the  same  place  again,  on  a  stated  day  named,  and 
invited  the  congregation  to  attend  him  out  in  the 
grove. 

He  passed  out,  as  he  went  in,  without  turning  liis 
head   to   the   right   or  to  the  left,  and  stopped  at  a 


in  West  Tennessee.  63 

stump.  Taking  off  his  hat  and  coat  he  laid  them 
upon  the  stump,  and  then,  turning  to  the  assembled 
neighborhood,  asked  if  there  was  present  a  member 
of  any  church,  and  paused  for  a  reply.  A  gentle- 
man stepped  forward  and  replied  that  he  had  been 
a  member  of  the  Presbyterian  church.  "  That  will 
do,  sir;  thank  you,"  said  Mr.  Davis.  "I  have  a  wife 
and  one  child.  Her  name  is  Drucilla.  She  lives  at 
a  certain  place  " — here  giving  such  directions  that 
he  could  not  fail  to  find  her.  "  I  want  you  to  prom- 
ise, by  the  vow  you  took  when  you  joined  the 
church,  that  if  anything  should  happen  to  Arthur 
Davis  to-day,  by  which  he  should  never  see  her  again, 
that  you  will  tell  her  how  it  happened,  and  all  about 
it.  ITow,  Mr.  Regulators,"  turning  to  a  clump  of 
men  who  were  standing  apart  from,  the  crowd,  "I 
am  ready  for  you.  Come  one  at  a  time,  and  I'll 
show  you  who  Art.  Davis  is."  They  looked  at  one 
another,  and  then  at  the  preacher.  "Don't  keep  me 
waiting,"  says  he.  "You  have  made  your  threats 
that  no  d — d  Methodist  preacher  should  preach  in 
that  house,"  pointing  to  it.  "I  am  a  Methodist 
preacher,  and  I  have  preached  in  it,  according  to 
my  appointment.  I  am  now  ready  to  meet  you, 
according  to  your  appointment,  one  at  a  time,  and 
you  will  make  the  acquaintance  of  Art.  Davis." 

The  leader  of  the  band  threw  down  his  club, 
walked  up  to  the  brave-hearted  Davis  and  offered 
him  his  hand  saying:  "Mr.  Davis,  you  are  my  sort 
of  man;  I  like  you,  sir;  you  shall  preach  here  when- 
ever it  may  please  you  to  do  so,  and  I  will  see  you 
do  it  in   peace.     You  are  the  preacher  for   me." 


64  Reminiscenres  of  Old  Times 

With  that  the  neighborhood  gathered  around  him, 
introducing  one  another,  until  he  had  made  the  per- 
sonal acquaintance  of  every  one  present.  He  was 
ever  after  that  a  welcome  preacher  in  the  neigh- 
borhood. 

l!^ot  long  after  that,  a  camp-meeting  was  being 
held  near  Denmark.  Mr.  Davis  was,  with  other 
preachers,  in  attendance.  It  was  a  custom,  in  the 
early  days  of  camp-meetings  held  in  the  Big  Ilatchie 
country,  to  organize  a  police  to  preserve  order  on 
the  ground,  and  to  keep  out  stragglers.  During  the 
progress  of  the  meeting  a  half  dozen  or  more  row- 
dies and  desperadoes,  being  instigated  by  a  wild 
spirit  and  bad  whisky,  got  up  a  fuss,  which  threat- 
ened to  break  up  the  meeting.  The  police,  or  guard, 
as  they  were  then  called,  succeeded  in  arresting  all 
of  the  disturbers,  save  one,  who  defied  the  guard 
and  the  whole  camp-meeting.  He  had  backed  him- 
self in  between  two  tents,  and  he  was  protected  in 
the  rear  by  another  tent.  The  passage-way  to  him 
was  just  wide  enough  for  one  man  to  pass  in. 
There  the  desperado  had  taken  refuge,  brandisliing 
his  bowie-knife,  and  threatening  death  to  any  one 
wlio  dared  put  his  hands  upon  him.  Mr.  Davis, 
hearing  of  the  difficulty,  quietly  remarked  that  he 
would  go  and  take  him.  Approaching  the  crowd 
wliich  had  assembled  in  front  of  the  desperate  man 
with  his  bowie-knife,  he  at  once  comprehended  the 
work  to  be  done.  Reaching  the  entrance  to  the 
passage-way  in  which  the  desperado  stood,  with  his 
glistening  blade  in  hand,  he  turned  to  the  by-stand- 
ers  and  asked  that  they  would  make  him  two  pro- 


in  West  Tennessee.  65 

miBGs,  to  which  they  assented.  "Then,"  says  he, 
"you  will  promise  me,  iirst,  if  I  am  killed,  that  you 
will  see  that  my  wife  Drucilla  and  the  chiTdren  are 
cared  for;  and  you  will  promise  me,  second,  that 
you  will  hang  that  devil,"  pointing  to  the  desper- 
ado, "  upon  yon  limb,"  poiutin.g  up  to  a  suitable 
limb  for  the  purpose.  Turning  to  the  outlaw  he 
quietly  said :  "  Xow,  sir,  you  are  my  prisoner."  No 
sooner  did  he  make  the  iirst  firm  step  toward  him 
than  the  outlaw  threw  down  his  knife,  advanced, 
and  meeting  him,  said  :  "Parson  Davis,  you  are  the 
only  man  alive  that  can  take  me.  I  am  your  pi'is- 
oner."  The  meeting  progressed  without  further 
disturbance. 

Few  men  possessed  the  personal  courage  of  Mr. 
Davis.  His  earnest  and  firm  personal  bearing  was 
as  an  array  of  sharp  steel,  when  directed  towards  an 
offender.  The  power  of  his  moral  influence  over 
the  wicked  was  marked  with  equal  success.  The 
boldness  with  v/hich  he  asserted  his  right  to  talk  to 
sinners  w^as  happily  illustrated  at  a  camp-meeting 
held  near  Brownsville,  The  good  work  was  going 
on  swimmingly;  the  mourner's  bench  was  filled, 
and  gave  promise  of  the  conversion  of  many  souls. 
^Ir.  Davis,  in  passing  along,  administering  to  their 
troubled  souls,  came  to  an  old  and  hardened  sinner, 
a  gentleman  of  his  acquaintance.  He  saAV  that  he 
was  "under  conviction."  Laying  his  heavy  hand 
upon  his  shoulder,  he  said,  in  a  loud  and  strong 
voice:  "Pray!  pray  hard;  pray  with  all  your  mind, 
miffht  and  soul.  You  are  a  movin^',  breathini2:  mass 
of  putrefaction.      Pray   with    all    your    mind    and 


66  Reminiscences  of  Old  limes 

strength,  for  you  are  the  very  butt-cut  of  sin."  The 
power  and  force  of  his  lang'uage  struck  the  old  sin- 
ner with"  such  terror  as  to  his  situation  that  he  slid 
from  the  bench  into  the  straw,  and  wrestled  with 
the  devil  until  he  triumped.  Such  was  the  power 
and  force  of  character  of  the  best  pioneer  preacher 
that  ever  filled  an  appointment  in  the  Big  Hatchie 
country. 

The  first  school-house  in  Tipton,  north  of  Hatchie, 
was  built  in  1827,  in  the  Thompson  settlement,  and 
old  man  Larkin  Gaines  was  the  first  schoolmaster. 
The  writer,  with  Dr.  Jacob  E".  Ward  low,  now  the 
Clerk  and  Master  of  the  Chancery  Court  of  Laud- 
erdale, and  Sam.  A.  Thompson,  Esq.,  the  present 
Chairman  of  the  County  Court  of  Lauderdale,  were 
among  his  first  pupils. 


in 


West  Tennessee.  67 


CHAPTER  IV.      • 

John  C.  Barnes,  the  Pioneer  Blacksmith —  What  Became  of 
General  Tipton' s  Jack — The  Chickasaws  and  the  Shooting 
Match— The  First  Tub  Mill  and  Cotton  Gin — Joshua 
Farrington,  the  Gin  Maker — Temple,  the  Screw  Cutter 
and  Model  Bear  Hunter — Bolivar  Merchants— Pitser 
Miller —  The  Author's  First  Killing. 

John  C.  Barnes  was  the  pioneer  blacksmith  in  Tip- 
ton, north  of  Hatchie.  His  shop  was  on  the  waters 
of  Fisher's  creek.  Barnes  was  a  good  citizen,  though 
a  bachelor,  and  had  the  advancement  and  prosperit}^ 
of  the  settlement  very  much  at  heart.  Of  robust 
constitution,  he  stood  six  feet  two  in  his  stocking 
feet,  broad  across  the  chest,  with  shoulders  and  arms 
of  a  Yulcan,  and  was  a  skillful  and  most  reliable 
workman  with  all. 

The  bringing  into  cultivation  of  the  rich  new  lands 
began  to  require  more  work  stock  than  were  brought 
in  by  the  settlers.  Barnes,  wishing  to  contribute 
his  share  toward  increasing  the  stock  of  the  land, 
proposed  bringing  a  jack  into  the  settlement  and 
establish  his  headquarters  at  his  blacksmith  shop. 
His  proposition  was  approbated  by  the  neighbor- 
hood, with  promises  of  patronage.  But  the  grave 
question  arose,  first,  as  to  where  one  could  be  had, 
and  secondly,  the  monej^  required  to  pay  for  one. 
A  good  jack  in  those  days  was  worth  from  six  to 
eight  hundred  dollars,  which  was  more  money  than 


68  Beminiscences  of  Old  Times 

Barnes,  backed  by  the  settlement,  <io\x\({  conveniently 
raise.  My  father,  hearing  of  Barnes'  enterprise, 
and  equally  anxious  with  the  lower  settlement,  to 
begin  the  raising  of  mules,  sent  for  him.  Barnes, 
full  of  hope-giving  promise,  with  the  message  he  had 
received,  was  at  my  father's  to  breakfast  the  next 
morning.  He  and  my  father  talked  over  the  sub- 
ject-matter of  his  visit,  which  resulted  in  his  going 
over  to  see  General  Tipton,  residing  south  of  the 
Hatchie,  near  Covington. 

General  Tipton  was  among  the  first  settlers  south 
of  the  Big  Hatchie,  in  the  county  which  bore  his 
name.  His  place  of  dwelling  was  beautifully  situ- 
ated, four  miles  northeast  of  Covington,  where  he 
established  a  large  plantation.  He  early  introduced 
into  the  country  the  "  best  blooded  stock."  He  took 
great  interest  in  raising  fine  horses,  mules  and  cat- 
tle, by  which  he  became  a  great  benefactor  to  the  early 
settlers.  Barnes,  without  delay,  went  over  to  see  the 
General,  and  by  an  arrangement  satisfactory  to  both 
parties,  obtained  his  fine  jack  "  Moses,"  and  brought 
him  over  to  his  blacksmith  shop.  There  being  no 
printing  ofiicesyet  in  the  country,  Barnes  repaired 
to  old  man  Gaines,  who  taught  a  school  in  the  set- 
tlement, and  who  wrote  a  fine,  big  hand,  and  got 
him  to  write  ofit* handbills,  which  he  did,  announcing, 
in  a  flowing  big  hand,  that  "  General  Tipton's  cele- 
brated Jack,  ^  Moses,'  fifteen  and  a  half  hands  high, 
would  keep  his  headquarters  for  the  season  at 
Barnes  blacksmith  shop,"  etc.  Sticking  them  up, 
one  at  the  school-house,  one  at  the  meeting-house, 
and  through  the  settlement  generally,  the  neighbors 


in  West  Tennessee.  69 

flocked  to  the  blacksmith  shop  to  see  General  Tip- 
ton's famous  jack  ^'  Moses/'  and  Barnes  felt  that  his 
fortune  would  he  made  in  one  season.  His  black- 
smith work,  in  the  meantime,  kept  him  busy  during 
spring  and  early  summer,  which,  with  the  standing 
profits  that  promised  to  crop  out  of  the  "  celebrated 
Moses,"  he  passed  the  summer  with  golden  dreams 
of  a  rich  harvest  from  his  enterprise. 

The  Chickasaws  had  not  yet  abandoned  the  Big 
Hatchie  country  as  their  favorite  hunting-ground,. 
Bands  of  hunters  came  in  every  fall,  hunting  in  the 
Hatchie  Bottom,  until  they  loaded  their  ponies  with 
deer,  bear  and  other  skins,  which  they  took  to  Boli- 
var, a  trading  post  for  Indian  traffic.  Game  of  every 
description  was  so  plentiful  that  the  whites  paid 
little  or  no  attention  to  their  coming  or  going.  They 
were  proverbially  polite,  friendly,  and  wholly  inof- 
fensive. To  the  nearest  settlers  they  would  bring 
in  the  finest  haunches  of  venison,  fat  gobblers  and 
bear  meat.  They  hunted  for  the  most  part  for  the 
peltries,  curing  only  as  many  venison  hams  as  they 
could  conveniently  pack  away  on  their  ponies. 

The  hunting  season  had  opened.  Barnes,  how- 
ever, was  no  hunter.  He  was  regarded  as  the  rising 
man  of  the  settlement,  and  began  to  think  it  was 
not  good  to  be  "  alone  in  the  world."  A  wedding 
was  soon  talked  of  at  Captain  Childress',  some  six. 
miles  below  in  the  "  thick  woods."  Barnes  was 
spotted  as  the  lucky  man,  and  the  Captain's  eldest 
daughter  as  the  w.oman.  She  was  a  widow.  The 
wedding  came  off,  and  Barnes  took  his  bride  home. 
Arriving  at  home  with  his  loving  charge,  he  was  aiet 


70  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

with  the  stern  reality  that  "  Moses  "  had  gotten  out 
and  taken  himself  off  to  the  "  wilderness."  All 
hands  had  gone  to  the  wedding,  and  none  could  tell 
hoAv  he  got  out  or  whither  he  had  gone.  It  was 
night,  and  nothing  could  be  done  until  morning. 
Barnes  rose  eaily,  and  his  first  care  was  to  find  the 
whereabouts  of  the  General's  jack.  Finding  from 
his  tracks  that  he  had  gone  in  the  direction  of  the 
Hatchie  Bottom,  he  returned  to  breakfast.  After 
breakfast,  he,  with  his  foreman  in  the  shop,  went  in 
search  of  "  Moses."  Taking  his  track,  they  fol- 
lowed it  until  they  came  to  the  thick  switch-cane, 
where  they  could  track  him  no  farther.  Bogueing 
about  in  the  cane  until  night  came  upon  them,  they 
were  compelled  to  return,  having  hunted  all  day  in 
vain.  A  general  search  was  made  the  next  day,  sev- 
eral of  the  neighbors  joining  in  the  hunt;  but 
"  Moses  "  had  lost  himself  in  the  wilderness,  where 
he  could  not  be  found.  Barnes  grew  uneasy ;  he 
was  troubled.  Could  he  have  been  stolen  ?  Hardly, 
for  he  had  been  tracked  to  the  thick  cane.  The 
Chickasaws  were  in  camp  some  eight  miles  above. 
None  had  been  seen  so  low  down,  and  if  they  had, 
no  one  thought  for  a  moment  that  they  were  guilty 
of  the  theft.  They  had  been  coming  in  every  hunt- 
ing season,  and  were  never  known  to  trespass  upon 
any  one's  rights.  No,  the  Chickasaws  had  never 
been  guilty  of  a  wrong.  In  the  meantime  the  win- 
ter rains  set  in  early,  overflowing  all  the  streams. 
The  Hatchie  rose  rapidly,  inundating  the  bottom. 
"Moses"  had  not  yet  returned.  The  conclusion 
Barnes  came  to  was,  that  he  had  been  caught  in  the 


V. 


in  West  Tennessee.  71 

overflow  and  drowned.  The  winter  passed,  and 
Barnes  had  to  report  to  the  General  tlie  loss  of  his 
jack,  acknowledging  his  responsihility  in  the  prem- 
ises. He  promised  to  make  good  his  valne  as  soon 
as  he  was  able  to  do  so.  The  General,  kind  at  heart 
and  in  sympathy  with  Barnes  for  his  loss,  was  lenient. 
Barnes  went  to  work  in  his  shop,  redoubling  his 
energies.  New-comers  were  rapidl}^  settling  around 
him.  His  shop  work  increased.  He  made  and 
sharpened  all  the  plows  for  eight  or  ten  miles  around. 
Happening  to  be  on  the  river  fishing  one  day,  as  a 
trading  boat  was  descending,  the  Captain  hailed 
him  and  inquired  whether  any  peltries  were  on  sale 
in  his  neighborhood.  In  the  meantime  the  boat 
drifted  around  in  the  eddy  where  he  was  fishing, 
coming  up  broadside  to  the  bank.  The  deck,  or 
roof,  of  the  boat  was  covered  with  skins  of  aU 
kinds.  It  was  sunny  September,  and  the  sldns  were 
being  sunned  and  aired.  A  conversation  grew  up, 
Barnes  asking  the  Captain  what  kind  of  skins  he 
was  buying,  what  he  was  paying,  and  the  points  he 
was  trading  to  and  from,  when  the  Captain  remarked 
that  he  had  bought  a  hide  of  an  animal  at  Bolivar 
novel  in  thQ  peltry  trade.  The  novelty  was  turned 
over,  with  the  hair  side  up,  a  huge  hide,  with  head, 
ears,  and  the  eye  holes  well  stretched.  No  sooner 
was  Barnes'  attention  called  to  it  when  he  exclaimed : 
"By  thunder!  Captain,  it's  my  jackass's  skin. 
'  Moses,'  have  I  found  you  at  last  ?  Captain,  where 
did  you  come  across  that  hide  ?  "  The  Captain  told 
him  that  he  purchased  it  with  other  skins  from  Bills 
&  McNeal,  of  Bolivar.     Barnes   then    related   the 


72  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

story  of  the  missing  jack,  and  the  Captain,  being 
impressed  with  the  truth  of  the  statement,  readily 
turned  the  hide  over  to  Barnes,  who  took  it  home 
and  put  it  away  for  safe  keeping.  The  following 
month,  October,  the  Chickasaws  came  in  for  their 
fall  hunt.  Barnes  was  on  the  lookout  for  them. 
They  came  down  to  the  number  of  sixty  or  seventy, 
and  camped  at  the  mouth  of  Fisher's  Creek,  in  the 
vicinity  where  "Moses"  had  lost  Jiimself  the  fall 
previous.  They  were  very  friendly.  Barnes  was 
favorably  known  to  many  of  them.  He  had,  on 
previous  seasons,  repaired  their  guns.  Wholly  igno- 
rant of  the  grave  charge  awaiting  them,  several 
were  soon  out  to  the  shop  to  have  the  locks  of  their 
guns  fixed.  Barnes  had  a  talk  with  them.  Learn- 
ing that  it  was  the  same  party  that  were  in  the 
bottom  hunting  the  fall  previous,  he  fell  upon  a 
strategy  to  get  them  out  to  his  shop.  Fixing  their 
locks,  he  told  them  that  a  great  "  shooting-match  " 
was  going  to  take  place  at  his  shop  next  Saturday, 
then  three  days  off,  and  invited  them  to  come  and 
bring  all  of  their  best  shots ;  that  they  were  going 
to  shoot  for  the  skin  of  a  large  and  beautiful  ani- 
mal, the  only  one  of  the  sort  that  was  ever  killed 
in  the  Hatchie  Bottom.  Delighted  with  the  oppor- 
tunity of  shooting  with  the  white  man,  and  for  such 
a  prize  skin,  they  left  in  great  glee,  promising  to 
come  and  bring  all  of  their  best  marksmen.  Barnes 
was  not  long-in  communicating  with  his  neighbors 
and  arranging  for  the  "  shooting  match."  Saturday 
came.  Tlie  best  shots  of  the  neighborhood,  num- 
bering thirty,  had  arrived.     Soon  the  Indians  came 


in  Wes(  Tcmiessee,    '  73 

galloping  lip  on  their  ponies,  numbering  between 
sixty  and  seventy. 

The  blacksmith  shop  was  at  the  cross-roads,  on  a 
high,  level  bench  of  land,  thickly  shaded  with  large 
poplar,  oak  and  hickory,  free  from  undergrowth. 
A  broad  board  had  been  charred,  by  holding  it  over 
a  fire  until  it  was  black.  The  "  bull's  eye  "  was  cut 
and  pinned  in  the  center  of  the  "black-board," 
which  was  nailed  breast  high  on  a  large  poplar,  and 
ninety  yards  stepped  off.  The  Indians  were  to 
choose  from  among  them  five  of  their  best  shots, 
and  the  whites  the  same  number.  Judges  were 
appointed  to  arrange  the  order  of  shooting.  A  silver 
half-dollar  was  east  up,  "  heads  or  tails,"  to  decide 
which  side  should  have  the  first  shot.  It  was  won 
hj  the  red  m6n.  The  judges  announced  everything 
ready  for  the  shooting  to  begin.  Four  shots,  in  their 
order,  was  made,  and  the  judges  decided  there  was 
a  "tie."  The  last  round  would  decide.  The  red 
man  squared  himself  to  the  mark,  slowly  bringing 
his  rifle  to  his  shoulder,  and  in  breathless  silence 
raised  its  long  barrel  until  his  sight  covered  the 
"  bull's  eye,"  and  fired.  He  drove  the  center.  It  was 
the  first  shot  that  broke  the  cross  (t).  The  Indians 
yelled  with  gleeful  delight.  The  remaining  shots 
were  wide  of  the  mark,  and  the  Chickasaws  whooped 
aiid  yelled,  calling  for  the  prize  skin.  Barnes  was 
ready  with  it.  He  deliberately  walked  out  with  the 
hide  of  "Moses"  rolled  up  under  his  arm,  and 
unrolled  it  upon  the  ground,  to  the  astonished  gaze 
of  the  red  men.  There  was  the  hide  of  the  cele- 
brated jack,  "  Moses,"  with  its  mouse-colored  hair 
4 


74  JRemmscences  of  Old  Times 

and  black  streak  running  down  its  back,  its  flanks 
and  belly  white  as  cotton,  relieved  by  the  dark  rings 
of  the  neck  and  head,  with  ears  sticking  np,  and 
eye-holes  circled  with  thick  tufts  of  short  white  hair, 
spread  out  on  the  ground.  The  red  men  pressed  up 
close  to  get  a  sight.  The  winner  of  the  prize  gath- 
ered it  up,  to  exhibit  it,  as  well  as  to  examine  it 
more  closely.  Turning  it  over,  he  broke  out  with  a 
jolly,  semi-savage  "  Ha  !  ha!  ha!  Me  kill  him.  Me 
shoot  him.  See  my  bullet  hole  !  [running  his  linger 
through  the  fatal  hole.]  Ha  !  ha  !  Me  sell  him  to 
Bolivar.  Me  get  him  again.  Ha  !  ha  !  "  Old  man 
Fullen— Ben Fullen,  proprietor  of ''  Fullen  Ferry  "— 
who  was  not  in  the  secret  of  Barnes'  strategy, 
exclaimed  aloud,  that  it  was  "the  hide  of  General 
Tipton's  jack ; "  he  would  "  swear  by  the  flesh  marks 
that  it  was.  See  them  eye-holes,  and  them  rings 
round  his  big  ears!"  "Hush!"  said  Barnes,  "let 
me  speak."  Asking  them  all  to  be  quiet,  he  spoke, 
addressing  himself  to  the  Chickasaws.  He  explained 
to  them  the  nature  and  uses  of  the  animal  whose 
hide  was  before  them ;  that  it  belonged  to  a  great 
General,  who  lived  on  the  other  side  of  the  Hatchie; 
that  he  strayed  away  from  his  shop  into  the  thick 
cane  last  fall,  while  he  was  absent  from  home ;  that 
he  and  his  neighbors  had  hunted  for  him  for  weeks, 
and  concluded  that  he  was  caught  in  the  ovei-flow 
and  drowned ;  that  he  had  to  pay  the  General  six 
hundred  dollars  for  his  loss ;  that  he  was  a  poor 
man,  not  able  to  pay  that  big  money;  that  he  had 
been  good  to  them,  fixing  and  repairing  their  old 
guns  whenever  they  came  to  him, and  never  charged 


in 


West  Tennessee.  75 


them  much;  that  the  Chickasaws  were  a  brave, 
honorable  nation  ;  that  they  had  never  stolen  any^ 
body's  property,  nor  trespassed  upon  anyone's 
rights.  The  brave  young  man,  who  was  the  best 
shot  and  won  the  hide,  acknowledged  that  he  killed 
him.  #IIe  was  satisfied  that  he  thought  he  was  shoot- 
ing some  wild  animal;  that  he  felt  innocent  of  doing 
harm.  Yet,  they  were  in  the  white  man's  country, 
where  laws  were  made ;  that  the  laws  did  not  have 
any  respect  to  persons,  and  ignorance  was  no  excuse; 
that  all  were  alike  guilty,  and  they  must  pay  him 
for  killing  the  animal.  If  they  refused,  the  man  of 
the  law  was  upon  the  ground,  who  would  have 
them  all  arrested  and  carried  to  jail. 

The  utmost  respect  and  attention  was  paid  to 
Barnes  while  he  was  making  this  plain  talk.  The 
older  heads  of  the  red  men  gathered  together  in  the 
grove,  and  held  council  in  the  matter.  After  a  long 
talk,  the  young  hunters  having  gathered  around 
them,  they  dispersed,  each  man  going  to  his  pony. 
Their  movements  were  eagerly  watched  and  noted 
by  the  thirty  good  marksmen  at  the  shop.  Getting 
their  ponies,  they  all  came  leading  them  up  before 
the  shop.     An  intelligent  looking  old  hunter  spoke  : 

"  We  sorry  for  killing  him.  We  think  he  belong 
to  the  woods.  We  find  him  in  thick  cane.  We 
think  him  wild.  We  sorry  for  Barn — good  man, 
work  much.  We  take  no  white  man's  boss,  pony, 
nothin  that  b'longs  to  white  man.  We  honest.  We 
pay.  We  have  ponies;  that's  all  [motioning  toward 
the  long  line  of  ponies  held  by  their  owners.]  Take 
pay.     We  honest." 


7^  lieminiscenees  of  Old  Times 

The  strateg}^  was  a  success.  The  red  men  had 
showD  themselves  true  Chickasaws.  Barnes  told 
his  red  frier* ds  to  point  out  the  ponies  they  wanted 
to  give  up  in  payment  for  the  jack.  The  old  hunter 
wlio  had  acted  as  spokesman  said :  "  Take,  take 
plenty.  Red  man  pay  white  man.  Let  white  man 
say."  Barnes  then  suggested  that  three  white  men 
and  two  red  men  be  appointed  as  appraisers.  They 
were  appointed,  and  passed  upon  the  value  of  the 
ponies,  fixing  their  value  at  seventeen  dollars  and  a 
fraction  as  tlie  average,  turning  over  to  Barnes  thirty- 
five  ponies  in  payment  and  full  satisfaction  for  his 
jack.  What  became  of  General  Tipton's  jackass 
was  satisfactorily  explained. 

The  Chickasaws  meeted  out  a  full  measure  of 
justice  to  our  friend  Barnes — six  hundred  dollars' 
worth  of  ponies  satisfied  the  law.  It  was  their  first 
lesson — stunning  lesson  under  the  teachings  of  stern, 
written  law.  They  would  have  no  more  of  it,  so 
they  cut  short  their  hunt,  and  bid  a  long  fare- 
well to  the  Big  Hatchie  country,  their  old  hunting 
ground,  and  returned  to  their  "beloved  prairies," 
soon  to  be  yielded  up  to  the  progress  of  Southern 
agriculture.  Barnes  had  a  public  sale  and  sold  ofl' 
the  ponies,  distributing  the  illegitimate  proceeds  of 
his  jack  through  the  settlement,  thereby  increasing 
the  stock  of  the  land.  My  eldest  brother  purchased 
three  of  them;  most  excellent  hunting  ponies  they 
were. 

It  is  proper  to  mention  here,  that  the  parties  at 
Bolivar,  who  became  possessed  of  the  jack's  hide, 
and  who  enjo3^ed  the  joke,  had  it  narrated  in  the  lower 


in  W^st  Tennessee.  77 

settlement,  where  the  Indians  were  wont  to  hunt, 
putting  on  foot  inquiries  as  to  who  had  lost  a  jack- 
ass, which  came  to  the  knowledge  of  the  owners 
thereof  For  none  stood  hi^-her  for  commercial 
integrity  than  the  merchants  of  Bolivar. 

BOLIVAR 

was  one  of  the  earliest  and  most  important  trading 
posts  in  "West  Tennessee.  Its  tirst  settlers  were  men 
of  a  high  grade — such  men  as  the  Polks,  Bills,  Woods, 
Millers,  MclN'eils,  and  many  others,  whose  names 
are  not  onl}^  identified  with  Bolivar  and  Hardeman 
county,  hut  familiar  to  the  whole  Western  District 
of  Tennessee  as  among  the  hest  and  brightest.  Of 
the  many  old  settlers,  whose  long  and  eventful  lif^ 
has  been  spared  to  link  the  past  with  the  present, 
and  who  stands  among  the  noble  fathers  of  the  land, 
no  better  specimen  could  be  offered  than  the  name 
of 

PITSER  MILLER." 

I  well  remember  him  at  the  period,  when  my  father, 
with  his  immigrant  train,  camped  at  Bolivar,  wait- 
ing for  the  waters  of  the  Big  Hatchie  to  subside  to 
enable  him  to  cross.  He  was  then  quite  a  young 
man,  of  course.  He  came  to  our  camp,  made  the 
acquaintance  of  my  mother,  and  would  have  her 
and  my  grandmother,  and  the  young  children,  to  go 
to  his  house,  and  showed  them  every  kindness — not 
letting  them  leave  his  hospitable  roof  until  the  train 
was  ready  to  move  across  the  river.  His  generous 
kindness  was  ever  remembered  by  my  father  and 
mother,  and  will  never  be  forgotten  by  their  chil- 


78  J-^cndniscence^  of  Old  Fuiica 

clrei].  I  am  not  aware,  at  tins  writing',  wLetlior  he 
is  among  the  living,  but  if  gone  forever,  his  name 
will  long  survive  his  mortal  death.  I  regret  that  I 
am  not  able  to  give  a  biographical  sketch  of  him — 
such  as  his  name  merits,  as  I  knew  him  more  from 
his  high  character  than  as  a  personal  acquaintance. 
Certain  it  is,  however,  that  the  annals  of  West 
Tennessee  could  not  be  written  without  his  name. 
He  ever  stood  with  the  people  of  Bolivar  and 
Hardeman  county  as  the  first  and  leading  mer- 
chant, and  exercised  and  maintained  a  healthy 
influence  over  all  who  knew  him  and  enjoyed  his 
acquaintance.  I  remember  that  one  earnest  sen- 
tence spoken  by  him,  so  influenced  my  mother  as  to 
have  turned  the  scale  of  fortune  against  us.  My 
father,  upon  reaching  Bolivar,  had  not  determined 
upon  a  point  of  location.  He  had  several  landed  in- 
terests in  Tennessee.  He  had  visited  the  country  the 
year  previous,  and  explored  it  from  the  first  to  the 
fourth  Chickasaw  bluff".  He  had  stood  upon  tlie 
grand  bluff'  upon  which  the  magnificent  yourgcity  of 
Memphis  now  stajids,'when  Bayou  Gayoso  coursed 
its  way  through  a  wild  jungle — the  haunts  of  the 
wild  beast — and  communed  with  the  grand  river 
He  was  interested  with  the  late  Colonel  John  C.  Mac- 
lemore  (who  was  a  near  relative  of  my  mother),  in 
several  landed  interests.  Among  the  tracts  in  which 
he  had  an  interest,  was  the  Ramsay  five-thousand- 
acre  tract,  now  covered  by  South  Memphis.  It  had 
been  agreed  between  Colonel  Maclemore  and  my 
father,  that  he  could,  at  his  option,  locate  upon  the 
Ramsay  tract.     It  was  his  aim  and  wish  to  settle 


w  Wfst  Tennessee.  79 

upon  the  banks  of  the  great  river  Mississippi,  in 
hearing  of  its  surging  waters.  Tlie  subject  was 
being  freely  discussed  in  the  presence  of  Mr.  Miller. 
My  mother  had  given  the  subject  but  lit  tie  thought,  so 
charmed  was  she  with  Pitser  Miller.  My  father, 
however,  had  the  fourth  Chickasaw  bluff  firmly  set 
in  his  heart.  Mr.  Miller  remained  reticent  as  to  an 
opinion  upon  the  subject  until  my  mother,  address- 
ing him,  called  for  his  opinion.  In  all  seriousness 
he  said:  ''  Well  Madam,  if  you  icill  go  and  settle  on 
the  hanks  of  the  Mississippi  rive)\  let  me  suggest  that 
your  husband  take  along  plank  enough  to  make  coffins  to 
bury  your  children — your  whole  family. ^^  I  remember 
well  the  electric  effect  of  these  remarks  upon  my 
mother.  Her  children  were  her  jewels — eight  of 
them.  My  father,  be  it  said,  ever  yielded  to  the 
fancies  of  his  intelligent  and  loving  wife,  Patsey. 
The  decision  was  taken,  and  Pitser  Miller's  coffin 
plank  kept  us  from  settling  on  the  Ramsay  tract. 
ITobody  is  responsible  for  the  freaks  of  Dame  For- 
tune— an  unmitigated  old  hag,  unworthy  of  decent 
burial.  Our  immigrant  train  had  better  have 
turned  in  the  direction  of  the  fourth  Chickasaw 
bluff,  with  Mr.  Miller's  coffin  plank,  than  to  have 
crossed  the  Big  Hatchie.  Yet,  Dame  Fortune  never 
oast  "new-comers"  upon  a  more  enchanting  and 
lovely  spot  than  fell  to  our  lot  north  of  the  Big 
Hatchie.  This  incident  is  only  mentioned  to  show 
the  influence  Pitser  Miller  exercised  over  the  minds 
of  men — especially  women — even  in  his  young  days. 
Returning  to  our  wilderness  home,  our  greatest 
need  was  .gcood    bread.     The  steel  mil)   had  worn 


80  Beminiscences  of  Old  Times 

out,  and  we  had  to  resort  to  the  mortar  and  pestle. 
The  meanest  of  all  meal  is  that  pounded  in  a  mor- 
tar— a  wooden  mortar — dark,  dingy,  close,  clammy. 
Broad  made  of  it  is  too  mean  to  write  about.  So  my 
father  resolved  to  build  a  mill.  Selecting  for  it  a 
beautiful  site  on  the  creek,  where  the  blufl*  was 
most  inviting,  he  went  to  work  with  his  own  resour- 
ces, and  soon  had  an  old  time  "tub-mill"  ready  to 
make  good  meal.  He  sent  up  in  the  vicinity  of 
Jackson,  in  Madison  county,  for  his  mill-rocks. 
He  also  attached  a  gin,  for  we  had  began  to  grow 
cotton.     He  purchased  his  gin-stand  of 

JOSHUA   FARRINGTON, 

of  Brownsville,  than  whom  no  cleverer  man  ever 
filed  a  s:iw-tooth  or  adjusted  a  brush.  I  remember 
Mr.  Farrington  as  a  true  type  of  an  old-time  gen- 
tleman. His  gins,  manufactured  by  himself  and 
sons,  were,  as  to  "West  Terinessee,  what  Pratt's  were 
to  Alabama.  By  his  industry  and  probity  he  raised 
a  large  family  of  sons  and  daughters,  who  became 
ornaments  in  society — his  eldest,  Jacob,  the  popu- 
lar, enterprising  man  of  progress;  John,  eminent  as 
a  jurist,  and  William,  prominent  as  a  merchant  and 
financier,  and  now  stands  head  among  the  bank 
presidents  of  Memphis.  John  and  William  are,  I 
believe,  all  that  are  now  living  of  the  worthy  sons 
of  a  most  worthy  sire.  The  mill  going,  and  gin 
ready,  a  press  was  needed,  but  where  to  get  a  screw- 
cutter  was  the  trouble.  My  father,  inquiring  in  the 
settlement,  was  informed  that  there  was  an  excel- 
lent screw-cutter,  who  had  abandoned  his  trade  and 


in  West  Tennessee.  81 

taken  to  bear-hunting;  that  his  place  of  dwelling, 
or  camp,  as  it  was  termed,  was  somewhere  over  on 
Cane  creek.  He  forthwith  dispatched  old  Jack, 
with  such  instructions  as  he  could  give  him.  The 
next  daj,  about  noon,  Jack  returned,  bringing  the 
screw-cutter  with  him.  He  came  on  foot,  with  a 
heavy,  short  rifle  on  his  shoulder,  in  well-dressed 
leather  overalls  up  to  his  hips,  followed  by  two  fero- 
cious dogs,  of  immense  size,  panther-colored,  with 
black,  broad  noses,  their  ears  rounded  off  close  to 
their  heads,  and  their  tails  bobbed  off  close  to  their 
broad  haunches — brother  and  sister.  They  were  the 
best-trained  bear-dogs  in  the  Big  Hatchie  country, 
and  their  owner  the  best  hunter  in  Crockett's  land. 
A  model  bear-hunter,  he  had  hunted  with  David 
Crockett,  and  was  familiar  with  the  range  and 
haunts  of  bruin  from  Reelfoot  lake  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Hatchie.  Stout  and  strong  (he  stood  full  six 
feet),  straight  as  an  Iroquois,  carrying  no  surplus 
flesh,  with  an  iron  constitution,  his  home  and  de- 
light was  the  wildwoods;  intelligent  and  good  look- 
ing, withal,  and  as  unselfish  as  the  genial  soil  upon 
which  he  was  wont  to  tread.  Preferring  the  chase 
to  work,  the  utilitarian  would  write  him  down  as  a 
lazy  man.  He  soon  satisfied  my  father  that  he  could 
cut  a  screw — that  he  was  a  finished  workman — but 
he  was  loth  to  take  the  job,  as  it  was  near  the  hunt- 
ing season  (it  was  then  early  fall),  and  he  could  not 
come  and  leave  his  family  in  his  camp,  as  he  called 
it.  He  had  a  wife  and  two  young  children,  twin 
daughters,  and  not  a  year  old.  My  mother,  over- 
hearing the  conversation,  and  equally  anxious  about 


82  Heminiscences  of  Old  Times 

the  screw,  spoke,  saying :  "Oli,  no,  sir !  It  will  never 
do  to  leave  3^our  wife  and  her  babies  alone  in  the 
woods.  Bring  them  along;  we  will  provide  for  them 
someway.  We  can  fix  them  up  in  the  loom-house; 
it  has  a  good  fire-place,  and  we  will  not  need  it  until 
the  cotton  is  picked  out  and  ginned.  Beside,  if 
you  want  to  hunt  bear,  you  can  find  as  many  down 
the  creek  as  on  Reelfoot  lake."  The  question  of  the 
screw-cutter  coming  was  soon  settled,  and  it  was 
agreed  that  Jack  should  hitch  up  a  team  and  return 
with  him  that  evening,  and  move  his  family  over 
immediately.  Th-e  screws-cutter  remarked  that  two 
horses  and  a  light  wagon  would  be  sufiicient,  as  his 
wife  constituted  the  heaviest  part  of  his  household 
goods.  It  was  so.  Old  Jack  returned  in  the  after- 
noon of  the  next  day,  bringing  the  screw-cutter  and 
all  of  his  earthly  possessions,  consisting  of  wife  and 
two  babies,  and  but  little  else  besides  the  scanty  bed 
upon  which  they  slept,  and  they  were  as  happy  as 
if  the}^  liad  rosewood  and  mahogany,  damask  and 
satin.  Young  and  healthy,  they  lived  in  and  for 
one  another.  Without  doubt  my  recollection  pic- 
tures her  the  handsomest  looking  woman,  for  her 
flesh  and  size,  I  ever  saw — tall,  above  the  aver- 
age height  of  woman,  and  remarkably  well-shaped 
and  fleshy.  Two  hundred  pounds  was  her  ordinary 
weight.  Her  features  were  faultless,  and  her  com- 
plexion as  delicate  as  a  rose-leaf.  Her  two  babies 
were  as  fat  and  beautiful  as  lierself.  M37  mother 
thought  her  a  sweet  woma!i,  and  became  quite  fond 
of  her.  She,  like  her  husband,  was  intelligent  and 
interesting  in  conversation,  and,  like  him,  the  wild- 


in  West  Tennessee,  -83 

woods  was  her  delight.  The  screw-cutter  pushed  his 
screw-cutting  work  ou  rapidly,  so  as  to  get  into  the 
woods.  He  proved  to  be  an  excellent  workman,  and 
my  father  built  him  a  house  near  the  mill,  where  he 
lived  several  years,  rendering  himself  serviceable 
when  called  upon.  During  the  bear-hunting  sea- 
son he  was  for  the  most  part  in  the  woods  with  his 
rilie  and  two  dogs.  His  house  was  never  clear  of 
bear-bacon.  The  screw  and  press  being  finished, 
the  mill  and  gin  going,  an  appointment  was  made 
for  a  big  bear-hunt,  to  begin  at  the  Big  Hurricane, 
some  eight  miles  up  the  river,  and  hunt  down.  The 
coming  among  us  of  the  model  bear-hunter,  with 
his  two  well-trained  dogs,  Caesar  and  Bess,  excited 
the  amateur  hunters  of  the  settlement  to  go  into  a 
hunt  with  him,  and  see  his  famous  dogs  handle  a 
bear.  'The  time  fixed  to  go  into  the  hunt  was  to  be 
a  week  before  Christmas,  and  to  end  JSTew- Year's 
day. 

There  were  but  few  expert  bear-hunters  in  the 
settlement.  Among  them,  and  perhaps  the  best, 
was  Cary  Estes.  His  elder  brother.  Captain  Albert, 
was  an  expert  hunter  also,  but  had  not  the  passion 
for  it  that  Cary  had.  Both  of  them  had  a  pack  of 
well-trained  bear-dogs.  Pendleton  Gaines,  famil- 
iarly known  as  "Pet,"  was  a  good  hunter;  so  was 
his  brother  Ab,  but  he  was  fat,  and  fond  of  his 
ease,  and  couldn't  last  on  a  big  run,  Steptoe  John- 
son was  always  ready  to  go  into  a  hunt,  bnt  was 
never  up  to  t\\Q  ^^  killing.''  I  had  grown  large  and 
strong  enough  to  shoot  "ofi-hand"  w^ith  a  rifle,  and 
had  killed  my  bear,  a  foil r-hundred-and-sixty -pound 


84  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

one,  at  that,  wlien  lean  in  fleph,  and  had  succeeded 
to  the  "little  rifle." 

I  may  he  pardoned  for  giving  a  hrief  account  of 
my  "  first  killing,"  hefore  going  into  the  hig  hunt. 
It  was  a  part  of  my  assigned  duty  to  drive  the  cows 
up  every  evening.     Sometimes  I  rode  —  oftener  I 
did  not,  and  when  going  on  foot,  my  next  younger 
brother  went  with  me.    I  mentioned  that  I  had  suc- 
ceeded to  the  "  little  rifle,"  and  she  v^as  ever  on  my 
shoulder  when  in  the  woods.     I  had  a  little  Scotch 
bull  terrier — Tasso.     Tasso  was  my  constant  com- 
panion during  daylight;  he  went  with  me,  of  course. 
We  set  ofi"  early  in  the  afternoon,  on  one  of  the  last 
days  in  August.     The  cows  were  in  the  habit  of 
feeding  a  mile  or  more  away  from  the  house.    Their 
favorite  grazing  was  on  the  walnut  level,  a  level 
bench  of  land  on  the  Hatchie  Bottom,  where  tke 
wild  pea  most  abounded.     It  was  free  from  under- 
growth, and  thickly  studded  with  walnut,  hickory 
and  ash.     This  lovely  bench  of  land  bordered  on 
the  Big  Slough,  where  commenced  an  almost  im- 
penetrable canebrake,  extending  into  the  river,8ome 
half  mile  oft'.     We  found  the  cows  where  expected. 
A  familiar  whoop  started  them  homeward,  the  old 
"bell  cow"  taking  the  lead.     The  sun  was  then  an 
hour  high,  and  we  stalked  around  on  the  Big  Slough 
for  a  little  hunt.    We  had  gone  but  a  short  distance 
when,  passing  around  the  lap  of  a  large  fallen  tree, 
a  yearling  deer  sprang  out,  scampered  oft' some  forty 
yards,  and  stopped  \)y  a  large  clay-root.     The  barrel 
of  the  "little  rifle"  was  ready  and  leveled  upon  the 
little  fellow  in  an  instant.    Upon  his  bringing  a  halt, 


in  Wist  Tennessee.  85 

the  sharp  crack  of  the  rifle  startled  the  hooting  owl, 
and  with  it  came  the  shrill,  distressing  bleat  of  the 
fawn.  I  had  shot  too  far  back,  breaking  him  down 
in  the  loins.  Its  bleating  w^as  most  distressing.  I 
had  heard  old  hunters  say  that  wild  beasts  of  prey 
would  come  to  the  bleating  of  a  fawn  as  far  as  they 
could  hear  it.  Our  proximity  to  the  known  haunts 
of  the  bear  and  the  panther  instantly  aroused  my 
fears,  and  I  fell  to  reloading  my  rifle.  I  had  not 
more  than  got  the  charge  of  powder  to  the  muzzle, 
w^ien  a  startling  crash  and  cracking  of  the  cane  was 
heard  across  the  slough.  Before  I  had  time  to  patch 
my  bullet,  w^e  heard  a  plunge  into  the  water,  and 
the  next  moment  a  monster  bear  came  up  the  bank 
of  the  slough,  making  his  way  to  where  the  fawn 
was  bleating.  Tasso  had  by  this  time  slipped  from 
us,  and  reached  the  fawn  simultaneously  with  the 
bear,  disputing  his  right  to  interfere.  In  the  mean 
time  the  fawn  had  worked  his  way  behind  the  clay- 
root,  from  where  we  w^ere  standing,  and  out  of  our 
view.  Tasso  and  the  monster  were  engaging  one 
another  over  the  little  deer,  which  continued  its 
bleating.  Soon  we  heard  the  brave  little  dog  squall 
out,  as  though  he  had  received  a  death-blow.  He 
ceased  barking,  and  my  fears  were  that  it  was  *'  up 
with  him."  I  ran  down  a  naked  bullet,  and  went 
on  the  double-quick,  under  cover  of  the  large  clay- 
root,  to  my  little  dog's  relief.  Reaching  the  spot  I 
mounted  the  log,w"hich  brought  my  head  and  shoul- 
ders above  the  clay-root.  The  fawn  had  crawled 
some  distance  from  the  two  contending  hosts.  Tasso 
was  in  the  folds  of  the  bear's  huge  arms,  grappling 


86  Jxcniiniscences  of  (Ski  Times 

with  all  his  might  under  the  throat  of  the  monster, 
which  was  doing  his  best  to  hng — to  squeeze  the 
Uttle  fellow  to  death.  His  size  alone  saved  him 
from  having  every  bone  in  his  little  body  crushed. 
Fretted  so  by  Tasso,  he  had  not  discovered  me,  then 
within  ten  feet  of  him.  I  surveyed  the  situation,  so 
as  not  to  endanger  my  httle  dog's  Kfe  by  an  un- 
lucky shot,  not  being  able,  from  his  position,  and 
the  constant  motion  of  his  head,  to  put  a  bullet  in 
the  burr  of  his  ear.  Old  bruin  sat  square  upon  his 
broad  haunches,  with  his  back  to  me.  I  aimed  well, 
and  put  a  ball  through  his  loins,  over  the  region  of 
the  kidneys,  sprawling  the  monster  his  full  length 
upon  the  ground,  and  Tasso  was  saved.  Reloading, 
I  sent  a  bullet  through  his  brain,  ending  his  misery. 
I  had  expected  to  find  my  little  dog  badly  hurt,  and 
was  greatly  delighted  to  find  that  he  was  only  bitten 
through  the  ball  of  one  of  his  fore  feet,  carrying 
away  a  couple  of  his  toes.  My  brother,  who  had 
])een  a  quiet  looker-on,  had  taken  charge  of  the 
little  deer,  which  kept  up  its  bleating  until  relieved 
by  the  hunting-knife. 

The  sun  had  gone  down — it  was  growing  dark  in 
the  bottom,  and  we  were  a  mile  and  a  half  away 
from  home.  The  fawn  we  could  have  carried,  but 
there  lay  stretched  out  a  monster  hear,  which,  had 
it  been  flit,  would  have  we'ghed  six  or  more  hun- 
dred pounds.  It  was  ni}^  first  bear,  too.  I  felt  that 
I  could  build  up  a  fire  and  spend  the  night  with 
him — would  have  done  so,  rather  than  leave  him,  so 
proud  was  I  of  m}^  ''first  hUling.''  I  commenced 
Ijluwing  my  born — (every  one,  in   those   days,  who 


in  West  Tennessee.  87 

went  into  the  woods,  carried  a  blowing  horn,  and 
none  could  blow  a  horn  better  than  "we  boys").  I 
continued  to  blow  it  at  intervals,  knowing  it  would 
soon  be  answered  by  the  big  horn  from  home.  In 
the  mean  time  we  struck  fire.  To  strike  fire,  in  the 
days  of  flint  locks,  was  an  easy  matter.  Sharpen  a 
stick,  force  it  tight  into  the  touch-hole,  fill  the  pan 
with  powder,  and  you  could  strike  fire  without  en- 
dangering the  "goiug-ofi"  of  your  gun.  AVe  put 
tire  to  the  tree-cap,  and  the  leaves,  being  dry,  and 
still  clinging  to  the  limbs,  the  lurid  flames  went 
high  in  the  tree-tops,  lighting  up  the  woods  for  a 
hundred  or  more  yards  around.  Blowing  again, we 
were  answered  by  the  big  horn.  My  father,  fol- 
lowed by  old  Jack,  soon  rode  up,  inquiring  what 
was  the  matter.  Pointing  to  my  first  "  killing,"  the 
matter  fully  explained  itself  The  bright  light  from 
the  tree-top  exposed  to  view  the  black  monster  and 
the  innocent  little  deer,  with  its  spots  not  yet  passed 
oft'.  The  matter  of  the  killing  being  explained  to 
my  father,  he  turned  to  Jack  and  gave  him  the  order 
to  return  home  in  haste  and  tell  Jim  to  hitch  one 
yoke  of  his  oxen  to  the  fore-wheels  of  the  wagon 
Avhich  he  had  been  using  during  the  day  in  hauling 
house-logs,  and  come  with  quick  haste  down  the 
river  road  to  a  certain  big  log,  and  turn  into  the 
walnut  level,  bringing -several  of  the  men  with  him. 
Within  a  short  hour  Jim,  wdth  Bright  and  Darling 
yoked  to  the  fore- wheels  of  the  wa^on,  was  making 
his  way  through  the  open  woods  to  where  we  wei-e. 
In  another  hour  we  were  at  home  with  my  first 
"  killing,"  and  I  was  the  recipient  of  all  sorts  of  flat- 


88  Remiyiiscences  of  Old  Times 

terins:  remarks  and  comments  from  mother,  broth- 
ers,  and  all  the  darkies.  From  that  day  I  was 
numbered  among  the  bear-hunters.  I  had  often 
been  along  with  the  hunters — followed  up  the  chase 
and  witnessed  the  killing,  but  this  was  my  first 
killing.  The  circumstances  of  the  killing  were  re- 
counted to  the  screw-cutter.  His  comments  and 
remarks  as  to  my  manner  and  coolness  displayed, 
filled  me  almost  to  bursting  with  self-importance, 
and  I  became  his  favorite  hunting  companion.  I 
remember  well  that  wakeful  night.  My  young 
thoughts  lingered  and  hovered  around  that  clay- 
root  all  night.  The  pitiful  bleating  of  the  fawn; 
the  startling  crash  and  cracking  of  the  cane,  as  the 
monster  bear  came  rushing  through  it;  the  piercing 
squall  of  my  little  Tasso;  the  great  bear  sitting 
upon  his  broad  haunches,  with  the  brave  little  dog 
in  the  folds  of  his  huge  arms,  and  the  little  fellow 
grappling  him  under  his  throat,  were  scenes  fresh 
with  me  all  night,  whether  awake  or  dreaming. 

Pardon  me,  reader,  for  keeping  you  out  of  the 
big  hunt  so  long.  We  will  go  into  it  in  the  next 
chapter. 


in  West  Tamessce.  S9 


CPIAPTER  y. 

Big  Bear- Hunt — Temple,  the  Model  Bear- Hunter,  and  His 
Dogs  Ccesar  and  Bess — The  Big  Hurricane— Numerous 
Bear  Killings — Encounter  with  a  Panther — Roosting  Wild 
Turkeys — Camp  Life  in  the  Vioods — The  Locked  Buck 
Horns — The  Deer  Lick  Slosh — The  Big  Rear — The 
Killing — Camp  Stories  and  Anecdotes — The  Last  Day's 
Hunt  and  the  Last  Killing. 

ISTow,  reader,  we  fire  ready  for  tlie  big  bear-hunt. 
Already  a  month  has  elapsad  since  it  was  talked 
about.  Temple  was  loth  to  go  into  if.  An  old  and 
experienced  hunter,  owning  two  of  the  best  trained 
and  most  valuable  dogs  in  the  Big  Hatchie  country, 
and  fearing,  from  the  inexperienced  and  often  reck- 
less shooting,  that  they  would  as  likely  be  the  victims 
of  the  shots  as  the  bear,  it  was  not  surprising  that 
he  should  feel  a  reluctance  in  joining  in  the  hunt. 
He  promised  to  go  in,  however,  and  was  true  to  his 
word;  beside,  he  was  curious  to  know  something  of 
the  Big  Hurricane.  Tuesday  before  Christmas 
was  the  day  appointed  to  meet;  the  place  of  ren- 
dezvous, at  a  point  named  near  the  Big  Hurricane, 
ten  or  more  miles  up  the  river.  Tt  was  understood 
that  every  hunter  take  with  him  a  man-servant, 
except  Temple.  My  father  declined  going,  but 
promised  to  join  in  if  the  hunt  should  extend  down 
in  his  hunting-ground.     Steptoe  would'nt  go  unless 


90  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

my  fiitber  went;  beside,  he  was  getting  old,  and  his 
ohl  gray  mare  was  lean  in  flesh.  The  signs,  as  to 
the  weather,  were  favorable.  We  had  had  a  dry 
winter  up  to  that  time,  and  the  bottom  was  right  for 
a  good  run. 

Temple  and  myself  set  off,  as  soon  as  we  could 
see,  to  follow  a  blind  trail  leading  up  the  bottom, 
followed  by  old  Jack.  Our  course  led  through 
good  hunting  woods.  I  suggested  to  Temple  that 
he  had  better  ''  yoke  his  dogs  ;  they  might  strike  a 
fresh  scent,  which  might  delay  our  reaching  the 
ground  at  the  appointed  time."  ''Oh,  no,  they 
w^ait  for  the  word  to  '  go  in.'  I  shall  certainly  not 
give  it  to  them."  Jogging  along  single  file,  at  a 
six-mile  pace,  we  soon  reached  Big  Creek.  Finding 
an  easy  ford,  -we  crossed  without  difliculty,  hurrying 
on  to  the  Big  Lagoon,  where  we  encountered  difii- 
culty  in  finding  a  crossing.  It  is  an  ugly,  muddy 
stream,  with  a  miry  bottom.  Turning  up  it,  we 
came  to  a  shallow  ford.  The  opposite  bank  pre- 
sented a  high  blufi:";  we  crossed,  however,  riding 
near  the  water's  edge  until  reaching  an  abrupt  bend, 
where  the  blufi'  terminated.  The  banks  of  the 
lagoon,  from  which  we  crossed,  was  thickly  studded 
with  tall  cane,  the  tops  bending  down  to  the  water's 
edge.  Coming  to  the  abrupt  bend.  Temple,  who  was 
riding  before,  reined  up  his  horse,  and  pointing  up  the 
lagoon,  remarked,  in  a  low  tone  of  voice:  "What  a 
pity!  what  a  pity!  Old  fellow,  we  must  hands 
oft";  it  will  never  do  to  draw  blood  before  we  get 
together  and  organize."  The  object  of  his  remarks 
was  a  huge  bear,  in  the  act  of  lapping  water,  stand- 


in  Wed  Tomessce.  91 

iiig  oil  tlie  margin  of  the  stream,  on  the  opposite 
bank,  broadside  toward  us,  and  within  eas}^  ritie 
range.  He  raised  his  great  head,  and  deliberately 
viewed  us,  seemingly  miconcerned — a  most  tempt- 
ing shot.  C?esar  and  Bess  were  not  slow  in  dis- 
covering him.  With  a  fixed  gaze,  the  hair  down 
their  backs  standing  at  an  angle  of  forty-five 
degrees,  they  looked  up  at  their  master  now  and 
then  for  the  word  to  "go  in."  I  begged  for  a  shot. 
Temple  replied  :  "  ^o;  it  will  not  do ;  it  is  a  pity  to 
pass  him,  but  it  must  be  so.  We  will  get  him  this 
evening  or  to-morrow.  He  is  housed  up  not  an 
hundred  yards  from  Avhere  he  is  taking  water.  Lets 
go."  Turning  to  the  right,  up  the  bank,  we  went  on 
our  way  in  the  direction  of  the  Big  Hurricane,  then 
two  or  more  miles  away.  Eeaching  the  vicinity  of 
the  place  where  we  were  to  meet.  Temple  blew  his 
hoFn;  it  was  answered,  and  we  soon  joined  Cary 
and  Captain  Albert.  Pet  and  Ab  had  not  yet 
arrived.  They  were  soon  up,  and  all  dismounted 
for  a  talk.  Six  hunters  were  present,  including  my 
little  self.  The  Captain  and  Cary  were  comparative 
strangers  to  Temple.  Car}^  was  regarded  as  the 
most  experienced  and  expert  hunter  present,  and 
specially  familiar  with  the  Big  Hurricane  and  its 
surroundings.  Earnest  in  speech,  more  truthful 
and  reliable  than  is  common  to  hunters,  he  was 
expected  to  open  the  subject  of  organizing  the 
hunt.     Addressing  himself  to  Temple,  he  said : 

"Well,  Mr.  Temple,  we  have  appointed  this  hunt 
that  we  might  have  the  pleasure  of  having  you  with 
lis,  and  to  see  your  celebrated  dogs  handle  a  bear. 


92  Bcudnisctncc's  of  Old  Times 

Your  celebrit}'  as  a  bear-hunter  is  known  to  us.  We 
have  come  prepared  for  several  days'  hunt,  if  it 
shoukl  prove  agreeable.  Though  a  young  man, 
and  a  comparative  young  hunter,  I  have  found,  by 
experience,  that  to  hunt  bear  properly  and  success- 
fully, where  there  is  more  than  one  hunter  in  the 
hunt,  it  is  best  that  we  be  perfectly  agreed  as  to 
the  order  and  rules  that  should  govern  us.  I  pro- 
pose, therefore,  Mr.  Temple,  that  you  suggest  the 
rules  that  shall  govern  us  in  the  hunt."  Temple 
spoke  slowly  and  distinctly,  approving  heartily  what 
had  been  said,  remarking  further,  that  it  had 
been  his  misfortune  to  have  drawn  out  of  hunts  for 
the  lack  of  order  and  a  good  understanding.  "I 
make  it  a  rule  for  instance,  that  when  a  ^ start'  is 
made,  if  any  of  the  hunters  should  halloo  out  to 
encourage  the  dogs,  I  call  mine  off  and  quit.  It  is 
also  a  rule  with  me,  that  if  any  of  the  hunters  should, 
by  accident  or  reckless  shooting,  wound  or  kill  a 
dog,  I  draw  out  and  take  my  dogs,  or  he  is  required 
to  do  so.  I  have  noticed  that  the  over  anxious, 
hasty  hunter,  is  more  apt  to  scare  the  bear  than 
kill  him,  and  as  often  shoots  a  dog,  when  in  a  close 
fight,  as  the  bear.  My  dogs  are  trained  to  stay 
with  me  until  I  give  them  the  word  to  go.  They 
fight  close — too  close  sometimes — when  the  bear  is 
wounded.  Whenhunting  alone,I  neverhave  to  shoot 
the  second  time.  I  have  trained  them  to  hold  a 
bear  at  l)ay,  at  the  risk  of  getting  scratched.  When 
I  think  he  aims  to  make  a  big  run,  I  let  the  slut  go 
in;  other\vise  I  keep  her  with  me.  The  dog  is 
usually  enough  to  hold  any  bear  in  check  until  I 


in  West  Tennessee.  93 

get  up.  iSTeither  of  then  give  'mouth,'  when  on  a 
'  run. '  When  '  up,'  they  take  him  above  the  elbow  of 
the  fore-arm,  until  they  bring  him  to  a  '  stop,'  then 
they  bark  a  few  minutes,  and  wait  for  my  coming. 
If  I  am  not  up  soon,  they  give  '  mouth '  again.  The 
few  rules  which  are  known  to  all  good  bear-hunters 
being  observed,  we  will  have  a  pleasant  and  agreeable 
hunt.  I  should  have  mentioned  that  no  dog  should 
be  allowed  in  the  hunt  that  will  run  a  deer  or  any- 
thing else  but  a  bear  or  panther." 

Temple's  suggestions  were  heartily  agreed  to,  and 
the  hunt  was  organized,  Gary  being  chosen  leader. 
Captain  Albert  and  Ab,  with  three  of  the  negroes, 
went  to  select  a  suitable  place  to  camp,  on  a  small 
branch  running  into  the  lagoon,  a  short  distance 
below.  Gary,  Pet,  Temple  and  myself  filed  oiF  for 
a  short  hunt.  Temple  had  related  the  circumstance 
of  our  having  seen  the  bear  in  crossing  the  lagoon. 
It  was  agreed  that  we  go  and  take  him,  remarking 
that  he  knew  pretty  much  his  run.  We  were  soon 
on  the  bluff  overlooking  the  dense  cane-brake  in 
which  he  was  "housed."  Gary  suggested  that  he 
knew  a  good  crossing  a  half  mile  above;  that  he 
and  Pet  would  go  up  and  cross,  and  come  down  the 
lagoon,  outside  of  the  thick  cane,  which  would 
insure  his  taking  down  the  stream,  or  crossing  it, 
about  where  we  saw  him  taking  water;  that  we 
remain  on  the  bluff  until  the  "  start,"  when  we  could 
deteriQine  his  movements.  "You  can  put  your 
dogs  in,  Mr.  Temple,  when  you  think  it  best." 
CiiTj  and  Pet  rode  away.  Temple  and  myself 
remained    on    the   high   bluff.     Seating   ourselves 


94  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

upon  a  large  log,  we  quietly  interested  ourselves 
noticing  the  movements  of  C^sar  and  Bess.  They 
took  their  stand  on  the  brink  of  the  bluff,  gazing- 
across  the  lagoon  in  the  supposed  direction  where 
the  bear  was  "housed,"  throwing  their  heads  one 
side  now  and  then,  to  catch  the  first  sound  that 
should  come  across  from  the  hunters  or  dogs. 
Temple,  pointing  to  an  opening  in  the  dense  forest 
that  overshadowed  the  cane-brake,  remarked: 

"I'll  bet  Ci^esar's  ears  that  he  is  'housed  up' 
among  the  old  logs  in  that  opening,  where  the  cane 
is  thickest." 

He  had  hardly  finished  speaking,  when  the  dogs 
broke  out  in  a  fierce  bay  at  the  very  place. 

"There  he  is  now;  hold!  The  whole  pack  is 
upon  him." 

Ci^esar  and  Bess  stood  trembling,  looking  around 
Q\QYy  moment  for  their  master  to  say  "go." 

"Bless  me!"  sa^^s  Temple,  "what  mouths!  That 
fuss  ought  to  start  the  devil  himself  from  his  den. 
Hark!  we  will  soon  hear  a  shot!  ISTotice  the  lull  in 
the  dog's  bajung.     The  hunters  are  close  up." 

In  a  moment  the  sharp  crack  of  the  rifle  rang 
through  the  woods,  followed  by  the  crash  of  the 
cane. 

"Bad  shot.  He  is  out,  now,  for  a  big  run.  The 
dogs  can't  hold  him  in  that  thick  cane.  He  aims  to 
go  down.     Let's  be  ofi"." 

Down  under  the  bluff'  we  went,  crossing  at  the 
same  place  where  we  had  crossed  in  the  morning. 
Ascending  the  opposite  bank,  we  immediately  passed 
into  an  open  glade,running  out  for  a  hundred  or  more 


in  We.^t  Temussee.  95 

yards.  The  bear  and  dogs,  judging  from  their  course 
as  indicated  by  the  sounds,  would  pass  through  the 
glade.  The  dogs  were  making  a  desperate  effort  to 
hold  him  in  the  cane.  Just  then  a  yearling  bear 
came  dashing  out  of  the  cane  from  the  direction  of 
the  dogs,  entering  the  glade  near  us. 

"  Don't  shoot ! "  said  Temple. 

He  gave  the  word  to  Csesar  and  Bess  to  "  Take ! " 
In  less  than  sixty  yard's  run  they  overhauled  him. 
When  we  got  up,  they  had  him  snatched.  Temple 
drew  out  his  long  knife  and  dispatched  him.  By 
this  time  the  bio^  bear  entered  the  i^^lade,  i)assino' 
within  forty  yards  of  us.  The  pack  were  up  with 
him.  As  he  cleared  the  cane  he  made  an  opening 
of  several  yards  between  himself  and  the  hounds, 
when  Cfesar  and  Bess  were  told  to  "go  in.''  Mak- 
ing their  best  run,  they  brought  him  to  a  "stop"  as 
he  was  about  entering  the  cane  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  glade. 

"Take  your  time,  hunters,  he  will  go  no  further," 
said  Temple,  as  we  joined  Gary  and  Pet,  in  pursuit, 
on  a  big  run. 

They  brought  a  halt,  and  we  closed  in  upon  the 
exciting  scene,  taking  our  time.  Reaching  within 
safe  shooting  distance,  Gary  said  to  Temple,  "  Give 
him  the  first  shot." 

"IN'o,"  says  Temple;  "let  him  who  shot  first  try  it 
again."' 

The  bear  was  making  a  desperate  effort  to  get 
away,  the  dogs  fighting  him  close.  G{?esar  and  Bess 
were  dividing  their  strength  on  either  side  of  him, 
both  fast  hold  of  his  arms  above  the  hock  or  elbow. 


96  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

bringing  him  now  and  then  upon  his  knees,  and  the 
half-hounds  pinching  him  close  in  behind.  Bear 
was  never  worried  more.  Pet  stood  with  his  rifle 
leveled.  It  being  his  second  shot,  he  wanted  it  to 
be  a  death-shot.  Temple's  dogs  completely  covered 
his  sides  with  their  bodies;  his  head  was  in  constant 
motion,  swinging  and  snapping,  first  one  side  and 
then  the  other,  and  it  was  next  to  itiipossible  to  put 
his  bullet  in  his  brain.  Pet,  already  worried  from 
intense  excitement,  approached  nearer,  but  was  still 
unable  to  find  a  safe  place  to  put  his  bullet  with 
telling  effect.  In  the  meantime,  the  dogs  pressed 
the  old  fellow  5o  hard,  in  his  madness  he  rose  upon 
his  hind  legs,  and,  making  a  desperate  efibrt  to  rid 
himself  of  the  dogs,  made  a  surpridng  leap,  reach- 
ing a  tree  standing  near,  carrying  Bess  up  with  him. 
Temple's  quick  eye  discovered  her  peril,  and  sent  a 
well-aimed  ball  under  the  burr  of  the  monster's  ear 
before  he  had  got  more  than  fifteen  feet  from  the 
ground,  his  slut  still  holding  her  grip.  The  bear 
fell,  falling  upon  her.  Temple  w^as  soon  to  her  re- 
lief, rolling  the  monster  off*  of  her.  She  was  none 
the  worse  off",  however,  for  her  tail.  The  dogs  gath- 
ered around  him,  pinching  him,  now  and  then,  to 
see  if  he  was  dead.  The  hunters  stood  around  in 
gleeful  delight,  remarking  upon  the  fight  and  the 
dexterous  skill  of  Caesar  and  Bess  in  handlins:  a  bear. 
"It  surpasses  anything  I  have  ever  witnessed  in 
all  my  bear-hunting  career.  Your  dogs,  Mr.  Temple, 
surpass  even  what  I  had  expected  of  them.  Were 
they  mine,  I  would  value  them  above  the  price  of  a 
small  plantation." 


in  West  Tennessee.  97 

"Yes,"  said  Temple,  "they  have  behaved  very 
well  in  this  fight.  I  was  fearful  that  Bess  would 
be  hard  to  satisfy.  I  seldom  let  her  go  in  upon  a 
wounded  bear.  Beside,  she  and  the  dog  had  just 
drawn  their  teeth  out  of  a  yearling  bear  when  I  let 
them  in  this  fight." 

"A  yearling  bear!"  said  Gary;  "when,  and 
where?" 

"Less  than  two  hundred  yards  out  yonder  in  the 
slash  you  will  find  a  yearling  bear  stretched  out  on 
the  ground.  As  we  crossed  the  lagoon  and  entered 
the  opening  the  little  fellow  came  dashing  out  of 
the  cane,  scared  up  by  yonder  dogs.  I  told  my  dogs 
to  *take,'  and  in  a  few  jumps  they  overhauled 
him.  When  we  got  up  they  had  the  little  fellow  ■ 
stretched  out  on  the  ground.  I  knifed  him,  leaving 
him  as  he  lay,  and  told  the  dogs  to  go  in  this  fight, 
and  joined  you  and  friend  Pet,  as  we  did." 

Turning  to  me  he  asked  if  I  would  go  with 
the  boys  (a  couple  of  them  had  just  come  up)  and 
have  him  dragged  up,  and  we  would  butcher  them 
both  on  the  same  ground.  The  yearling  was  soon 
laying  beside  the  monster. 

I  will  mention  here  that  a  bear  less  than  a  year 
old  is  called  a  "  cub."  The  cubs  gang  with  their 
dam  until  they  are  a  year  old ;  they  then  take  to 
themselves,  and  are  called  yearlings  until  they  are 
two  years  old.  Parturition  with  the  bear  generally 
takes  place  in  February.  The  yearling  knifed  by 
Temple  was  about  twenty-one  months  old.  Pet  was 
examining  the  bear  for  signs  of  his  bvillet-hole. 

"You  must  have  missed  him,"  said  Gary. 
5 


98  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

"Well,  I  reckon  I  did,  as  I  can't  find  any  bullet- 
hole  except  the  one  in  his  head.  The  cane  was  very 
thick  between  him  and  me  when  I  fired.  My  ball 
must  have  struck  one  and  turned." 

"Well,  we  had  as  well  commence  taking  off  the 
old  fellow's  hide,"  says  Gary.  "Come,  boys,  out 
with  your  knives." 

Taking  hold  of  one  of  his  great  paws,  he  re- 
marked : 

"  Old  fel,  you  have  made  your  last  run.  I  have 
had  this  old  bear  on  a  good  many  runs,  Mr. 
Temple;  he  is  an  old  acquaintance  in  these  woods. 
Had  he  have  gotten  to  the  Big  Hurricane,  where  he 
was  aiming  to  go,  it  would  have  been  a  sore  thing 
to  have  gotten  him  out.  We  may  thank  jowv  dogs 
for  his  hide  this  tiyyie.'^ 

His  hide  was  soon  ofiT.  Pet  examined  again,  but 
couldn't  find  his  bullet-hole.  Quartered  and  packed, 
Gary  took  from  behind  his  saddle  a  cord  carried  for 
such  purposes,  cut  a  slit  through  the  under  jaw  of 
the  yearling  into  his  mouth,  noosed  the  cord  around 
his  neck,  passing  the  end  through  the  slit  into 
his  mouth,  and  made  it  fast  to  his  horse's  tail. 
Spreading  the  little  fellow  upon  his  belly,  it  was 
announced  that  we  were  ready  for  the  camp.  Start- 
ing ofiT  down  the  lagoon,  remarking  that  we  would 
find  an  easy  crossing  below,  we  all  followed,  with 
prospects  of  a  tender  bear-steak  for  supper.  It  was 
surprising  to  see  with  what  ease  the  little  bear  was 
cordelled  over  logs  and  rough  places.  Remarking 
upon  it,  Gary^aid  it  was  the  way  he  took  most  of 
his  bear  home;  that  he  "had  frequently  carried  a 


in  West  Tennessee.  99 

three-hundred-and-fifty-pound  bear  six  or  eiglit 
miles  home,  tied  to  his  horse's  tail." 

We  soon  reached  the  camp,  admirably  located  for 
a  sort  of  winter  quarters.  The  boys  had  a  blazing, 
hot  hickory  fire  ready  for  us.  Night  was  hedging 
in  fast,  and  Pete,  the  leading  batcher  (the  Captain's 
servant),  was  told  to  hurry  up;  that  steaks  were 
wanted  from  the  yearling  for  supper.  Ab  was  a 
sort  of  head  steward  in  camp.  His  looks  and  pro- 
portions had  marked  him  out  for  one — fat,  and 
fond  of  good  eating  himself.  Only  too  fond  of 
good  whisky  —  any  kind  of  whisky — he  groaned 
heavily  when  the  article  was  ruled  out  of  camp.  The 
yearling's  steaks  were  ready  for  the  pan,  tender  as  a 
kid,  and  his  fat  ribs  just  right  for  roasting.  Bread, 
potatoes  and  salt  were  all  that  was  brought  into  camp. 
For  meat  we  depended  upon  the  woods.  The  Cap- 
tain was  not  in  camp.  Inquiry  was  made  after  him. 
Pete  said  that  he  had  gone  to  "roost"  a  gang  of 
wild  turkies,  and  would  be  back  soon. 

Gary  remarked:  "Yes;  I  have  known  him  to 
spend  night  after  night  after  turkies.  Getting  into 
a  gang,  he  would  keep  on  shooting  until  he  had  the 
last  one  of  them." 

Just  then  the  Captain  came  in,  very  quiet  in  his 
movement.  He  carefully  put  away  his  gun.  It  was 
cold,  and  he  looked  it.  Squaring  himself  down  upon 
a  bear-skin,  all  waited  for  him  to  give  an  account  of 
his  movements,  or  for  some  one  to  question  him  as 
to  what  he  had  done.     He  finally  broke  the  silence. 

"Well,  I  see  you  have  brought  in  plenty  of  meat. 
Good  luck  for  a  short  hunt." 


100  Beminiscences  of  Old  Times 

"Yes,"  said  Cary,  "we  not  only  had  luck,  but 
more  fun  and  excitement  than  is  usual  in  a  short 
hunt,"  then  recounting  the  full  particulars,  as  they 
occurred. 

"I  was  satisfied,  when  I  saw  Mr.  Temple's  dogs, 
that  they  were  all  right.  I  hope  to  have  the  pleas- 
ure of  seeing  them  in  a  fight  to-morrow.  Seeing  a 
large  gang  of  turkies  make  oW  toward  the  bottom, 
as  we  were  fixing  to  pitch  camp  here,  I  concluded 
that  I  would  go  and  roost  them.  Large  gang  of  fat 
gobblers !  Pete,  we  will  go  after  them  as  soon  as 
the  moon  gets  above  the  trees."  (The  moon  was 
then  in  her  second  quarter,  and  had  risen.) 

"Yes,  sir,  Pete  will  be  with  Mars  Albert  when  he 
goes!  E'ow,  come  and  eat.  Mars  Albert.  They 
have  all  eaten,  and  here  is  a  panfull  of  nice,  tender 
bear-steak.     Come  while  it's  hot." 

The  Captain  responded  to  Pete's  in\dtation.  The 
moon  being  in  the  right  position  for  the  Captain  to 
"go  for"  his  turkies,  started,  followed  by  Pete.  I^o 
one  was  invited  to  go  with  him.  He  had  been  gone 
but  a  short  while  when  we  heard  him  shoot.  Soon 
he  shot  again,  and  again,  until  we  counted  seven 
shots  within  a  short  hour.  By  eleven  he  and  Pete 
were  back,  loaded.  Pete  had  four,  and  the  Captain 
two.  Throwing  down  his  six  fat  gobblers,  the  Cap- 
tain remarked  that  he  had  killed  the  seventh,  but 
that  it  fell  across  the  lagoon. 

"Pete,"  says  he,  "you  must  go  after  that  turkey 
in  the  morning;  do  you  hear?" 

"Yes,  3Iars  Albert.  Pete  hears,  and  he  gwine 
after  him  in  the  morning,  be  sure  that  I  will." 


in  West  Tennessee.  101 

Adjusting  ourselves  around  the  fire,with  our  heads 
pillowed  on  saddles,  we  slept  till  early  morning.  Our 
first  morning  in  the  woods,  we  were  up  before  day, 
talking  over  the  hunt  before  us.  We  were  to  hunt 
the  Big  Hurricane.  Guns  had  been  shot  off,  wiped 
out,  reloaded  and  freshly  primed.  The  gray  streaks 
of  the  early  morn  indicated  a  sunshiny  day.  The 
sun  was  not  yet  up,  and  we  had  not  eaten  breakfast. 
The  ribs  were  roasting  and  the  steaks  frying.  While 
w^ai ting,  Temple  remarked  to  Gary  that  he  w^ould  like 
to  know  something  more  of  the  Big  Hurricane — 
enough  to  enable  him  to  get  out  of  it  if  he  should 
get  in. 

^' Well,"  said  Gary,"  it  is  a  mile  or  so  above  us,  on 
the  river.  The  river  touches  it,  or  it  touches  the 
river,  in  two  places,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from 
where  we  will  strike  it,  and  again  at  its  extreme 
upper  end.  It  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half — perhaps 
more — long,  and  about  one-third  as  wide.  The  river 
leaves  it  where  it  first  strikes  it  as  we  go  up,  making 
a  big  bend.  This  bend  takes  in,  perhaps,  as  much 
as  three  hundred  acres — is,  for  the  most  part,  over- 
flowed land,  mostly  open;  fine  hunting  woods. 
Where  the  bend  elbows  it  is  high,  dry  land,  and 
is  formed  into  an  island  by  the  river  making  a  cut- 
ofi"  in  high  water.  This  island  is  a  thick  canebrake. 
The  Hurricane  will  best  describe  itself  when  you 
see  it  and  go  into  it.  I  will  say,  however,  that  there 
is  not  an  original  tree  in  it.  All  were  blown  down 
or  topped  oiF  by  the  tornado  that  passed  over 
it;  when,  no  one  knows.  From  the  appearance  of 
the  undergrowth,  it  must  have  been  ages  ago.   Kear 


102  Baniniscences  of  Old  Times 

the  river  it  is  thick  cane;  the  middle  and  outer  por- 
tion, every  variety  of  scrubby  undergrowth,  filled 
up  with  briers.  Except  for  the  rotting  out  of  the 
old  fallen  trees,  or  logs — many,  however,  are  yet  in 
a  sound  state  of  preservation — egress  into,  or  out  of 
it,  w^ould  be  impossible.  The  wild  beasts  and  var- 
mints that  have  made  it  their  haunts  and  homes  for 
ages,  have  made  many  of  these  narrow  openings 
smooth  and  hard  by  their  frequent  travels.  It  is 
just  the  thickest  thicket  you  were  ever  in,  Mr.  Tem- 
ple; but  you  will  know  more  of  it,  before  evening. 
Pete  has  announced  breakfast.    Let's  eat  and  be  oli*." 

"■Well,"  said  Temple,  "I  feel  that  I  have  already 
been  in  it,  from  your  description.  It's  no  place  to 
hunt  bear.  But  to  gratify  a  curiosity  I  have,  I 
would,  as  a  bear-hunter,  turn  my  face  from  it." 

"And  so  would  I.  As  a  hunter,  I  fully  agree  with 
you.  1  have  lost  more  time,  and  had  more  dogs 
killed,  and  lost  more  game  in  it,  than  anywhere  else. 
My  object  in  wishing  you  to  join  us  up  here  w^as  to 
take,  if  possible,  an  old  bear  that  has  worried  us  and 
our  dogs  for  more  than  three  seasons,  and  carries  in 
his  huge  body  more  than  a  half  dozen  bullets  out  of 
my  rifle.  We  have  followed  him  on  a  run  from  the 
Hurricane  to  the  mouth  of  Cane  creek,  more  than 
fifteen  miles,  and  back,  in  the  same  day,  losing  him 
in  the  Hurricane.  He  is  a  monster,  and  it  is  worth 
a  week's  hunt  to  take  him." 

"Well,  w^e  will  try,  to-day." 

"Come,"  sadi  Cary,  "l«t's  go." 

We  were  all  oft"  for  the  Big  Hurricane,  on  foot,  of 
course.     A  short  half  hour  brought  us  to  the  high 


in  West  Tmnessf-e.  103 

bluff  where  the  Hurricraie  reaches  the  river.  It  be- 
came so  thick  and  impenetrable  that  we  were  forced 
to  wind  our  way  down  to  the  water's  edge  and  clam- 
ber under  the  bluff  until  we  reached  the  bend  in  the 
river  where  it  leaves  the  Hurricane.  We  had  not 
more  than  gotten  in  the  open  bottom  when  the  dogs 
gave  evidence  that  a  bear  or  a  panther  was  about. 
"Old  Start"  raised  his  smellers,  and  with  stiffening 
tail  he  went  off  up  the  river  in  the  bend,  followed 
by  the  other  half-hounds.  They  were  soon  on  a 
running  trail.  Our  sprightly  young  leader  seemed 
impressed  with  the  same  spirit  that  animated  the 
dogs.  Hastily  telling  Temple  to  follow  him,  and 
the  rest  to  string  out  alonj^  the  Hurricane,  he  was 
off,  following  the  dogs.  We  strung  out  as  directed. 
The  Captain,  being  a  quick  and  fast  runner,  he  was 
off.  I  kept  close  up  with  him,  Pet  and  Ab  behind. 
We  could  hear  the  increased  cry  of  the  dogs  as  we 
ran.  Making  a  couple  of  hundred  yards  or  more, 
the  Captain  halted,  to  get  a  better  ear  of  the  move- 
ments of  the  dogs,  when  we  discovered  that  they 
were  on  a  full  run,  in  full  cry,  coming  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  Hurricane,  aiming  to  pass  in  above  us. 
We  moved  up  a  little  and  waited.  The  Captain 
remarked  that  we  would  hardly  reach  the  jungle 
before  the  dogs  would  bring  the  animal  to  a  stop. 
"Bless  me,  what  music."  Fourteen  dogs  in  full  cvy, 
soon  in  the  morning,  clear  as  a  bell,  not  a  breeze  to 
disturb  sound,  in  the  open  wood,  and  the  pack  in 
full,  excited  cry,  was  music  most  ravishing  to  the 
hunter's  ear.  On  they  come !  Now  we  see  him ! 
He  is  a  monster  of  his  kind,  black,  burly,  and  fero- 


104  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

cio US-looking,  running  straight  as  an  arrow  toward 
ns.  Now  the  dogs  gain  on  him — he  is  making  his 
best  run — running  for  dear  life.  Ceesar  leads — 
leaves  the  pack,  and  is  fast  gaining  on  him,  giving 
no  mouth.  He  runs  straight  and  swift,  as  if  accel- 
erated by  electric  force !  He  is  upon  him !  The  yellow 
is  in  contrast  with  the  black!  He  takes  him  by  the 
fore-arm!  His  run  is  broken!  He  stops  him,  and 
the  pack  is  upon  him!  Bless  me,  how  intensely 
exciting!  Let's  go  up  and  enjoy  the  fight!  The 
Captain  and  myself  moved  up.  The  scene  was  so 
exciting  that  we  were  in  no  hurry  to  dispatch  him. 
Approaching  nearer,  the  bear  discovered  us,  and 
made  a  desperate  plunge  to  get  away.  He  had 
made  but  few  bounds  before  Ceesar  brought  him  to 
a  stop  again,  when  the  half-hounds  fought  more 
vigorously,  pinching  him  wherever  they  could  get  a 
hold.  The  bear  was  getting  desperate,  and  the  fight 
hot — "too  hot,"  said  the  Captain.  "Some  of  the 
dogs  will  get  hurt.     Shoot  him ! " 

I  replied  that  it  was  a  dangerous  place  to  shoot 
into;  that  he  was  more  experienced,  and  for  him  to 
shoot,  and  shoot  quick.  He  still  insisted  that  I 
shoot  first.  N'ot  hesitating  again,  for  I  had  become 
all  anxious  to  shoot,  I  approached  within  ten  feet 
and  watched  my  opportunity  for  the  dogs  to  make 
an  opening.  It  soon  offered,  and  I  fired,  putting 
my  ball  in  the  region  of  his  heart.  In  an  instant  he 
swung  his  great  head  around,  biting  at  the  place 
where  the  bullet  had  stung  him,  when  the  Captain 
fired,  lodging  a  ball  in  his  brain,  abruptly  terminat- 
ing one  of  the  most  interesting  and  exciting  bear- 


in  West  Tennessee.  105 

fights  it  was  ever  hunter's  lot  to  witness.  The 
hunters  were  all  up  at  the  killing.  Temple  re- 
marked that  the  Captain  and  myself  had  had  sport 
enough  for  one  day. 

^'Yes,"  said  Cary,  "but  we  have  something  on 
hand  likely  to  be  a  little  more  exciting.  Mr.  Tem- 
ple and  I  have  agreed  to  have  a  little  ugly  fun  after 
a  panther.  We  can  take  him  in  less  than  thirty 
minutes,  unless  he  has  already  hurried  himself  into 
the  Hurricane.  We  saw  his  tracks  as  we  were  crossing 
a  wet  slash,  a  couple  of  hundred  yards  back.  He 
had  just  passed.  Bess  was  anxious  to  "go  for"  him. 
Just  then  Pete,  Joe  and  Jack  came  in  on  a  lope. 
They  had  been  instructed  to  pass  up  on  the  outer 
side  of  the  Hurricane,  come  around  through  the  pass- 
able wood,  and  join  us  in  the  bottom.  They  had 
heard  the  dogs  and  our  firing,  which  hurried  them 
on.  Leaving  the  dead  bear  in  their  charge,  we  went 
for  the  panther.  Cary  gave  instructions  that  the 
hunters,  excepting  Temple,  should  hold  a  position 
between  the  dogs  and  the  hurricane.  He  and  Tem- 
pleton  moved  off  to  where  they  had  seen  the  fresh 
sign.  Reaching  the  place,  the  half-hounds  went  off 
on  a  running  trail  up  the  river,  which  put  the  Cap- 
tain, Pet,  Ab  and  myself  on  a  run  to  keep  between 
them  and  the  Hurricane.  The  Captain  ahead,  run- 
ning perhaps  a  quarter,  the  dogs  were  discovered  to 
be  going  from  us  in  the  direction  of  an  island  in 
the  elbow,  made  by  the  cut-oft*.  The  Captain  sug- 
gested that  we  pursue  them.  In  a  big  run  we  went 
until  reaching  the  cut-off",  where  we  halted  to  learn 
the  situation.     Cary  and  Temple  had  just  crossed 


106  R§miniscences  of  Old  Times 

the  cut-off  (it  was  then  diy)  and  were  entering  the 
thick  cane  in  the  direction  of  the  dogs.  They  had 
treed  him,  and  the  Captain's  quick  eye  was  not  long 
in  discovering  him.     He  said  to  us  standing  near : 

"  See  that  fallen  tree  lodged  in  the  fork  of  that 
big  white  oak;  look  in  the  fork  and  you  will  see 
him  crouched  upon  the  fallen  tree,  with  his  head 
toward  the  root." 

"Yes,  we  see  him!  we  see  him!"  we  exclaimed. 

The  Captain  was  making  ready  to  shoot,  when 
Ah  said: 

"But,  Cap.,  he  is  in  an  ugly  iix  there  for  a  good 
shot,  and  he  is  more  than  a  hundred  yards  oft^ — a 
long  shot." 

'•Yes;  but  if  we  go  further  we  can't  see  him  for 
the  cane.  See  him  drawing  himself  up,  making 
ready  to  spring;  he  sees  the  hunters  and  is  either 
aiming  to  spring  upon  one  of  them  or  leave,"  said 
the  Captain,  leveling  his  rifle  upon  him. 

With  a  steady  and  unerring  aim  he  fired.  The 
panther  made  a  marvelous  leap  in  the  direction  of 
the  root  of  the  fallen  tree.  E'ot  a  sound  except  the 
sharp  ring  of  the  rifle  and  the  echo  disturbed  the 
stillness  for  more  than  a  minute,  when  a  dog  squalled, 
then  another,  and  another,  and  then  the  dull  report 
of  a  rifle.  The  panther  had  discovered  Temple  and 
Cary  as  they  reached  the  opening  in  the  cane  made 
Ijy  a  fallen  tree,  but  the  thick  cane  overhead  pre- 
vented them  from  seeing  him.  The  Captain's  quick 
eye  in  seeing  him  making  ready  for  the  spring,  and 
instant  shot,  was  most  opportune.  The  panther  fell 
short  of  his  aim  and  the  dogs  covered  him;   rising 


in  West  Tennessee .  107 

he  dealt  death  and  pain  with  his  great  paws,  killing 
one  dog  outright  and  wounded  two  others  severely. 
The  thick  cane  and  the  sharp  fight  w^ith  the  dogs 
prevented  Temple  and  Gary  from  shooting.  Making 
havoc  among  the  dogs,  he  got  hold  of  Bess;  she 
was  grappling  under  his  broad  throat,  when  Temple 
went  to  her  relief  with  his  knife.  Letting  Bess  go, 
the  monster  furiously  attacked  Temple.  Fearfully 
grappling  him,  with  one  of  his  heavy  paws  fast  upon 
his  left  shoulder,  the  other  around  his  body  pinning 
his  right  fast,  he  was  making  a  furious  effort  to 
stretch  his  broad  jaws  across  his  right  shoulder  close 
up  to  his  neck.  Temple,  staggering  back  under 
the  weight  and  desperate  attack  of  the  infuriated 
panther,  was  in  a  perilous  situation.  Gary,  quickly 
as  possible,  was  to  his  relief.  Putting  the  muzzle 
of  his  rifl.e  against  the  body  of  the  panther  over  the 
region  of  the  heart  he  fired,  killing  him  instantly. 
In  the  mean  time  Temple  had  extricated  his  right 
arm  from  the  folds  of  the  panther,  and,  simultane- 
ously with  Gary's  shot,  sent  his  knife  up  to  the  hilt 
into  his  vitals. 

Gary  went  to  work  examining  Temple,  thinking 
it  miraculous  if  he  was  not  seriously  hurt.  Finding 
blood  upon  his  shoulder  and  on  his  shirt  collar,  he 
Avas  insisting  upon  his  stripping  off*  for  a  better 
examination,  when  the  Gaptain,  the  Gaines  and  my- 
self came  up.  Temple  w^as  protesting  against  being 
hurt  at  all — only  scratched  a  little.  His  leather 
blouse,  lined  with  dressed  buckskin,  with  other 
leather  strappings,  had  protected  him  from  the  long 
claws  of  the  panther. 


108  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

The  Captain,  stooping  down  examining  for  his 
bullet-hole,  remarked  that  he  had  only  broken  his 
lower  jaw;  that  the  distance  he  had  shot  was  greater 
than  he  had  expected,  as  his  ball  had  fallen  three 
inches.  His  aim  was  to  lodge  his  bullet  in  his  brain, 
but  it  fell  beloiv  its  aim.  This  discovery  fully  ex- 
plained why  Temple's  shoulder  and  neck  was  not 
crushed  and  mangled  by  the  monster's  jaws,  and 
accounted  for  his  being  stained  with  blood. 

"Well,  Mr.  Leader,"  said  Ab,  addressing  himself 
to  Oary,  "  I  guess  you  are  satisfied  now  with  what 
you  call '  a  little  ugly  fun.'  Oar  friend  has  made  a 
miraculous  escape." 

"  Yes,"  said  Gary,  "  we  are  satisfied.  We  knew  it 
was  a  little  out  of  our  line,  but  it  was  tempting,  and 
we  came  near  paying  well  for  it." 

"What  will  we  do  with  him?"  asked  the  Captain. 
"  Blow  for  the  boys,  or  drag  him  to  where  they  are  ? " 

"Just  as  you  all  may  say,"  said  Cary. 

"Drag  him,  of  course,"  remarked  Ab,  and  suiting 
his  action  to  his  words,  he  soon  had  a  vine  ready 
and  noosed  around  his  neck,  and  we  moved  to  where 
Pete  and  his  companions  were  butchering  the  bear. 

"Pete,"  said  the  Captain,  "skin  him  carefully;  it's 
my  hide  "  (the  first  blood  always  took  the  hide). 

Leaving  Pete  and  his  companions  butchering  the 
bear  and  skinning  the  panther,  the  hunters  moved 
ofl:'  to  hunt  the  Big  Hurricane.  It  was  then  in  the 
early  forenoon,  the  right  time  of  the  day  to  go  in. 
Reaching  a  deep  wash,  where  it  debouched  into  the 
open  bottom,  Cary  brought  a  halt,  and  said : 

"  i^ow,  Mr.  Temple,  here  is  what  I  call  the  mouth 


in  West  Tennessee.  109 

of  the  '  Clay  Gut ; '  it  heads  up  in  and  drains  a  wet 
slash  in  the  heart  of  the  Hurricane.  It  is  dry  now, 
and  we  can  w^alk  up  it.  I  call  it  the  '  Clay  Gut,' 
because  it  is  washed  out  to  the  clay.  It  has,  as  you 
see,  a  hard  clay  bottom." 

The  hunters  started  up  it,  single  file,  to  hunt  for 
the  oldest  bear  inhabitant  of  the  woods.  It  had 
washed  out  six  or  eight  feet  deep.  Winding  up 
through  the  jungle,  egress  to  or  from  it  could  only 
be  made  through  the  narrow  openings  made  by  the 
rotting  out  of  the  old  logs ;  the  trails  were  arched 
over  b}^  cane  and  vines;  frequently  small  runs  came 
into  it,  and  we  saw  not  the  sun  until  we  reached  the 
slash. 

Reaching  the  slash  we  halted  to  rest,  when  Cary 
remarked  that  he  had  be^n  there  only  once.  "It 
was,"  said  he,  "  last  I^ovember  a  year  ago.  Upon 
reaching  the  spot  where  we  now  are,  I  saw  tw^o  large 
bucks  with  their  horns  locked;  they  seemed  to  be 
exhausted;  and  one  was  upon  his  knees.  I  shot  the 
one  standing,  and  killed  the  other  with  my  knife. 
As  I  shot  I  saw  a  large  panther  move  slow^ly  away 
from  near  where  they  were  standing,  the  same,  most 
likely,  we  killed  this  morning;  he  was  doubtless 
waiting  to  make  his  supper  out  of  one  of  them,  as 
he  did,  for  I  left  them,  not  being  able  to  take  them 
away.  They  may  have  been  locked  together  a  day 
or  more,  judging  from  the  manner  in  which  the 
ground  was  torn  up.  They  were  the  largest  bucks 
I  ever  saw;  3"0U  will  say  they  are  the  largest  deer 
horns  you  ever  saw.  I  defy  any  one  to  pull  them 
apart  without  breaking  ofit"  a  peg.     We  will  go  and 


110  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

find  them;  the  panther  certainly  did  not  eat  up  the 
horns." 

We  went  in  search  of  the  horns,  but,  reaching 
the  spot  where  they  were  expected  to  be  found,  they 
were  not  there.  Gary  looked  a  little  confounded, 
so  certain  was  he  of  finding  them  where  stated. 

"  Certainly  no  one  has  been  here  and  taken  them 
away.  I  have  not  been  relating  a  dream,"  said  he, 
looking  again  from  the  position  where  he  stood  when 
relating  the  story  of  the  bucks.  "  Yes ;  it  was  here 
I  left  them.  Let  me  take  a  look  in  the  direction  I 
saw  the  panther  move  away."  "Walking  some  sixty 
or  more  yards,  he  came  to  the  edge  of  the  cane. 
*'Here  they  are,"  says  he. 

We  all  had  become  anxious  to  see  the  locked 
horns,  and  were  soon  with  him.  They  had  been 
dragged  to  the  edge  of  the  cane,  and  were  still 
locked.  It  must  have  been  a  powerful  beast  to  have 
done  it.  They  were  there  and  not  yet  separated  from 
the  head.  Larger  deer  horns  none  professed  ever 
to  have  seen.  All  hands  took  a  pull  and  tried  to 
separate  them,  but  gave  it  up  that  it  could  not  be 
done  without  "breaking  a  peg." 

While  we  were  discussing  the  horns,  the  dogs 
were  exploring  the  surroundings.  Numerous  wind- 
ing trails  came  into  the  slash  from  the  jungle,  smooth 
and  hard — too  hard  to  discover  the  foot-prints  of  the 
many  travelers  that  passed  over  them.  Tlie  opening 
made  by  the  slash  contained,  perhaps,  three  acres, 
upon  which  no  vegetation  grew — it  was  a  deer-lick. 

"  Hark!"  said  Gary,  '^ that's  old  Start." 

In  a  moment  several  of  the  half-hounds  broke  out 


in  West  Tennessee.  Ill 

ill  a  fierce  bay.  Moving  across  the  slash,  we  had 
not  reached  the  edge  of  the  cane  before  the  whole 
pack  were  in,  barking  furiously.  Caesar  and  Bess 
stood  by  their  raaster  waiting  for  the  words  "go  in." 
The  dogs  were  baying  less  than  an  hundred  yards 
from  where  we  stood,  and  it  was  impossible  for  man 
to  get  to  them  except  upon  his  knees. 

"I^ow,"  said  the  Captain,  "if  it  should  happen  to 
be  the  oldest  inhabitant,  he  will  not  leave  if  he  is 
well  housed;  no,  not  so  long  as  he  can  keep  his  tail- 
end  protected.  Some  of  us  must  slip  in — crawl  in 
— and  give  him  a  start." 

"  If  crawling  is  to  be  done,  my  young  hunter 
friend  here,"  pointing  to  myself,  "may  be  relied 
upon,"  said  Temple. 

"  It  is  an  ugly  job  for  a  grown  man,  but  for  a  boy 
who  has  not  forgotten  how  to  crawl,  he  would  be  in 
his  element,"  was  my  remark,  accepting  the  honor. 

I  simply  asked  Temple  to  let  his  dogs  "go  in," 
and  was  off,  examining  my  priming  as  I  went.  I 
soon  found  a  winding  trail  in  the  right  direction. 
Half  bent  I  went  in  with  heart  palpitating — right  up 
in  my  throat.  Reaching  within  twenty  yards,  I 
came  within  full  view  of  him  and  the  dogs  through 
a  narrow  vista,  which  was  made  by  the  rotting  out 
of  a  large  fallen  tree,  the  stump  of  which  formed 
the  rear  of  his  lair.  The  cane  tops  and  vines  had 
completely  arched  over  the  stump.  With  his  back 
to  the  old  stump,  he  was  striking  right  and  left  at 
the  approach  of  the  dogs.  Alive  to  the  situation, 
knowing  that  I  filled  the  only  passway  out,  and  that 
mv  shot  must  be  a  death  one  or  be  run  over  and 


112  Beminisceyices'  of  Old  limes 

possibly  hurt  by  him,  I  resolved  to  wait  my  chance 
for  a  better  shot.  The  dogs  formed  a  half  circle  in 
front  of  him;  his  head  was  in  perpetual  motion.  I 
waited  for  him  to  rise  upon  his  hind  feet,  when  I 
felt  sure  of  putting  my  bullet  in  his  heart.  Suddenly 
Csesar  and  Bess  passed  me,  jumping  over  my  left 
shoulder.  The  bear's  attention  was  attracted  by 
them,  when  he  discovered  me.  Instantly  he  made 
a  leap,  leaping  clear  of  the  dogs  in  front.  I  had 
gotten  over  the  bear-buck-ague,  and  felt  steady. 
My  rifle  was  leveled  well  upon  his  great  broad  head 
as  he  came  in  a  straight  line  toward  me,  aiming  to 
put  my  ball  between  his  eyes.  I  fired ;  he  fell  to 
his  knees.  In  an  instant  I  saw  that  it  was  not  a 
death  shot;  my  ball  had  struck  too  high,  glancing 
over,  taking  oflJ"  the  skin  for  a  couple  or  more  inches, 
and  commenced  reloading.  The  dogs  covered  him 
before  he  rose  from  the  stunning  efi:ect  of  the  shot. 
He  had  only  come  to  his  knees.  Csesar  and  Bess 
were  to  their  places,  the  half-hounds  holding  him 
well  behind.  Several  of  the  dogs  had  gotten  to  the 
front,  thinking  it  was  all  up  with  him.  Rising  upon 
his  rump  he  made  a  plunge,  but  was  impeded  by 
the  dogs.  Csesar  and  Bess  were  fast  hold  of  their 
favorite  catch,  close  under  his  deep  sides;  they  were 
holding  on  to  their  part  of  his  broad  arms  close  up 
to  his  body.  I  had  moved  my  position,  pressing  one 
side  into  the  cane  to  his  broadside.  By  this  time 
he  had  fully  recovered  from  his  stun ;  a  large  yellow 
quarter-hound  of  Pet's  was  at  his  head;  in  attempt- 
ing to  make  his  escape  he  was  prevented  by  the 
cane  and  became  a  victim  of  the  monster's  great 


in  West  Tennessee.  113 

jaws,  crushing  liim  through  and  through  close  over 
his  vitals.  Making  another  phiuge  he  relieved  him- 
self of  Ceesar,  dashing  hini  against  the  cane,  and 
broke  for  the  slash.  I  was  just  in  the  act  of  priming 
for  another  shot;  a  moment  more  and  I  would  have 
been  the  little  king  bee  of  the  hunt,  for  he  was  the 
"oldest  inhabitant"  of  the  woods.  Tlie  hunters  in 
the  slash  stood  ready  for  him;  he  crashed  through 
the  cane  like  a  young*tornado.  Clearing  the  cane, 
five  well-aimed  rifle  bullets  were  shot  into  him, 
three  passing  through  his  heart.  His  running  being 
accelerated,  he  ran  across  the  slash  and  fell  full 
length  upon  his  broad  belly  at  the  head  of  the  clay- 
gut,  with  a  loud  groan  or  moan,  as  if  human.  When 
we  reached  him  he  was  dead — dead  as  he  fell.  The 
monster  bear,  the  oldest  inhabitant  of  his  kind,  the 
bear  that  had  worried  our  friend  Gary  and  his  dogs 
so  often,  the  great  bear  of  the  Big  Hatchie  country, 
of  the  Big  Hurricane,  lay  dead  before  us.  We  spread 
ourselves  out  on  the  ground  to  rest;  tired,  though 
dealing  out  but  little  physical  toil.  The  hunter's 
mind,  soul  and  heart  had  been  in  intense  excitement 
till  the  killing— ^  we  were  tired  from  the  relax.  Gary 
blowed  his  horn  for  the  boys;  we  waited  their  com- 
ing. It  gave  us  time  to  rest  and  comment  upon  the 
last  half  hour's  work,  which  our  good  looking  young 
leader  said  in  the  early  morning  was  worth  a  week's 
hunting.  We  had  relieved  our  friend  Gary's  hunt- 
ing ground  of  his  two  troubles — the  great  bear  and 
the  panther.  He  was  as  fat  as  bear  of  his  size  and 
age  ever  get  to  be.  Without  any  means  of  weighing 
him,  the  hunters'  estimate  as  he  lay,  w^as  that  he 


114  Jicminiscenecs  of  Old  Times 

would  weigh  a  little  short  of  stiven  hundred  pounds. 
His  age,  who  knew  ?  He  had  grown  gray  around 
the  eves,  and  his  teeth  worn  off  more  than  half  their 
original  length.  The  writer  is,  perhaps,  the  only 
one  living  of  the  hunters  in  that  celebrated  hunt, 
when  the  big  bear  of  the  Big  Hurricane  was  killed. 
He  was  then  a  boy  in  his  thirteenth  year;  the  then 
youngest  of  the  hunters  was  his  friend  Cary,  who 
died  several  years  after.  Whether  any  of  the  others 
are  among  the  living  is  unknown  to  him;  if  living, 
they  will  testify  to  the  material  statements  in  the 
account  of  this  hunt — it  took  place  forty-five  years 
ago.  If  the  old  negro  Jack  is  living  he  will  bear 
witness,  if  the  reader  thinks  the  writer  is  dealing 
in  fiction.  Jack  was  then  thirty;  he  was  an  old 
young  negro;  he  was  living  in  Memphis  last  year. 
When  the  boys  arrived  all  hands  went  to  work; 
some  holding,  some  ripping,  and  others  skinning. 
The  hide  was  soon  stripped  from  his  huge  carcass. 
The  five  bullet  holes  were  plainly  in  relief,  and  each 
hunter  could  have  claimed  his  shot  from  the  size  of 
the  hole,  either  one  of  which  would  have  killed 
him;  a  small  breakfast  plate  would  have  covered 
them  all.  Four  poles  were  procured,  a  quarter  put 
on  each,  and  two  men  to  a  pole,  we  started  back 
down  the  clay-gut.  The  hide  was  assigned  to  the 
writer;  it  was  as  much  as  he  could  possibly  carry; 
more,  had  he  not  had  a  hand  in  the  killing.  After 
much  toil  we  reached  the  bottom.  The  two  bears 
killed  that  morning  were  more  than  three  horses 
could  pack,  so  we  bent  down  some  saplings  and  hung 
up  enough  for  another  trip.     The  boys  had  plenty 


in  Wciit  Tennessee.  115 

time,  as  the    sun  had  just   crossed   the    meridian. 

We  all  returned  to  the  camp  the  same  way  that 
we  came,  and  spent  the  afternoon  talking  over  the 
events  and  incidents  of  the  morning.  A  fine,  fat 
gohbler  was  suspended  before  the  fire,  roasting  for 
our  dinner. 

Reader,  did  you  ever  eat  of  a  fat  gobbler,  a  wild 
one,  roasted  before  the  fire  ?  Kone  of  you  young 
ones  havn't,  I  guess,  for  it  was  a  dish  for  ''  old  times," 
before  cooking  stoves  were  brought  into  use.  Rich, 
brown  and  juicy,  I  have  seen  them  carved  at  my 
father's  table. 

An  hour  before  sundown,  the  Captain  stalked  off 
to  roost  another  gang  of  turkeys,  remarking,  that 
for  his  eating  he  wouldn't  give  one  fat  turkey  for  a 
whole  six-hundred-pound  bear.     No  one  dissented. 

The  sunset  gave  promise  of  another  fair  day.  The 
old  proverb,  that 

"  Eveairg  r-'d  and  morning  gray 
Sets  the  travt  ler  on  his  way  ; 
Evening  gray  and  morning  red 
Brings  down  rain  upon  his  head,  ' 

is  remembered  by  all  old  hunters,  and  relied  upon  in 
determining  the  character  of  the  weather  for  the 
next  day.  We  had  come  to  make  a  three  days' 
hunt,  returning  Christmas  eve.  The  hunt  for  the 
morrow  was  to  be  in  the  BigBend,  below  the  mouth 
of  the  lagoon.  The  Captain  had  gone  after  his 
turkeys,  taking  Pete.  The  hunters  whiled  away 
the  hour  until  he  returned  in  camp  talk  and  relating 
anecdotes.  The  negroes  stood  around  enjoying  the 
jokes,  when  old  Jack  put  in  and  said: 


116  JReminiscenccs  of  Old  Times 

"Mars  Gary,  has  my  young  hunter  master  told 
you  'bout  Mistiss  and  the  childen  going  chestnut 
hunting,  and  being  most  scared  to  death  by  the 
bear?"^ 

"No,"  said  Gary.  "How  was  it,  Jack?  You 
tell  it." 

"  Well,  you  see,  Mistiss,  she  had  promised  the  chil- 
den to  go  wid  'em  chestut-hunting.  So  one  Satur- 
day, after  dinner,  they  all  went.  Mistiss,  she  took 
all  the  white  childen  and  the  little  darkies  to  pick 
up  chestnuts.  They  went  down  the  creek  half  a 
mile — mebbe  a  little  more.  The  chestnut  trees  wtuS 
fuller  last  fall  than  the}-  has  been  since  we  moved  to 
the  country.  They  had  just  begun  to  open,  but 
hadn't  begun  to  fall  out;  so  she  took  me  along  with 
my  ax  to  cut  down  the  small  trees  that  was  fullest. 
My  young  master,  there,  he  went  along  too.  He 
took  his  little  rifle  to  shoot  squirrels." 

"Well,  Jack,"  said  Gary,  "we  want  to  get  to  the 
chestnuts  and  the  bear." 

"  Ise  gwine  right  thar,  Mars  Gary,  as  fast  and  as 
straight  as  I  can  take  you.  Well,  as  I  was  saying, 
Mistiss  took  the  white  childen  and  the  young 
darkies" — 

"But  you  have  told  us  that,  Jack." 

"Well,  we  will  just  say  that  we  got  to  the  chest- 
nut trees  without  going." 

"That  is  it,  Jack,"  said  Gary,  "go  on." 

"  Well,  Mistiss,  she  and  the  childen  is  at  the  chest- 
nut trees.  The  childen,  they  was  running  about 
picking  up  chestnuts;  they  want  plenty  on  the 
grown.     Mistiss,   she   was   walking   about   on   the 


in  West  Tennessee.  117 

high  bluff,  with  a  bunch  of  yellow  flowers  in  her 
hand;  the  trees  was  on  the  bluff." 

''  Well,  Jack,  what  about  the  bear  ?  Where  was 
he?"  said  Gary. 

Well,  I  declar.  Mars  Gary,  if  you  aint  the  most 
impationest  man  I  evel-  did  see.  Aint  I  getting  to 
the  bear  part  fast  as  I  kin?  You  see  Mistiss,  as  I 
said,  was  walkin  on  the  bluff,  and  the  childen,  they 
was  running  about  after  chestnuts;  they  wasent 
plenty  on  the  ground." 

^-But  the  bear;  how  did  he  scare?" 

"  Well,  aint  I  coming  right  straight  to  the  bear  ? 
As  I  was  saying,  the  chestnuts  want  plenty  on  the 
ground.  They  heard  em  falling  thick  little  ways 
b'low,  and  way  they  went.  Mistiss,  she  was  stand- 
ing on  the  bluff.  She  was  close  by  the  tree  the 
childen  was  running  to.  She  just  looked  up  the 
tree  to  see  if  it  was  full  of  chestnuts,  and  she  began 
to  scream,  and  scream  as  loud  as  she  could,  'bear! 
bear!'  The  childen,  they  began  to  scream  and 
squall.  You  never  did  hear  sich  screaming.  The 
childen  bollard  'where,  where?'  They  was  scared 
so  bad  they  didn't  know  which  way  to  look  or  run, 
till  the  old  bear  made  such  a  fuss  up  the  tree,  rak- 
ing the  bark  as  she  was  backing  down.  The  chil- 
den looked  up.  The  bear  had  got  close  down  to 
the  ground.  Her  two  cubs,  just  above  her,  coming 
down,  too.  The  childen  broke  for  home,  Mistiss 
she  right  after  them,  screaming  and  squalling  as 
they  went.  The  childen  and  Mistiss  hadn't  got  no 
ways  before  the  old  bear  and  cubs  was  on  the 
ground,  running  like  the  dogs  was  after  them,  the 


118  Reviinisceiices  of  Old  Times 

other  way.  I  hollarcl,  and  bollard  for  them  to  come 
back,  but  they  wouldn't  here  me  nohow,  and  they 
didn't  stop  till  they  was  home." 

"Well,  Jack,  that  is  a  good  one,  but  where  was 
your  young  Master  with  his  rifle?" 

"Lor  bless  me,  he  was  under  the  bluff  shootin' 
squirrels." 

Just  then  the  Captain  came  in;  he  and  Pet 
loaded  with  turkeys.     He  had  his  seven  this  time. 

Two  hours  before  day  all  were  up,  guns  shot  off, 
wiped  out,  re-loaded  and  primed,  and  waiting 
breakfast.  We  made  an  early  start  for  the  hunting- 
ground  agreed  upon.  Crossing  the  lagoon,  we  were 
soon  in  the  switch-cane.  Before  reaching  the 
thick  cane,  old  "  Start "  struck  a  running  trail.  The 
half-hounds  joined  him,  and  they  went  upon  a  full 
run  in  the  direction  of  the  river.  The  hunters 
pressed  on  after  them.  Temple  gave  Csesar  and  Bess 
word  to  "go  in."  Reaching  a  wet  slash,  Cary,  who 
was  ahead,  stopped  to  examine  the  tracks,  to  see 
what  manner  of  bear  the  dogs  were  after.  Coming 
up  to  him,  he  said :  "  It's  an  old  she  and  two  cubs." 

Before  leaving  the  place,  we  heard  the  dogs  in 
"full  cr^^,"  coming  as  if  on  the  "back  track." 
Cary  remarked  that  they  had  divided.  In  another 
moment  Caesar  and  Bess,  with  a  couple  of  the  half- 
hounds,  over-reached  the  cub  (he  had  become  sep- 
erated  from  the  dam,  and  was  making  his  way  back 
to  where  they  started),  and  had  him  stretched  upon 
the  ground.  When  Cary  got  up  he  dispatched 
him  with  his  knife.  The  pack  were  on  a  "  big  run  " 
after  the  old  she.     She  was  making  her  best  run  to 


in  West  Tennessee.  119 

reach  the  Big  Hurricane.  Caesar  and  Bess,  with 
the  half-hounds,  were  put  in  after  her,  fresh  from 
the  killing  of  the  cub.  They  didn't  require  to  be 
hurried.  The  hunters  hurried;  getting  to  the  lagoon, 
w^e  brought  a  halt  to  hear  the  movement  of  the 
dogs.  They  had  her  at  a  lively  bay,  in  the  open 
woods,  near  the  Hurricane.  We  increased  our  run 
for  a  short  distance.  Discovering  that  she  had 
changed  her  course,  Temple  remarked  that  his  dogs 
had  headed  her  off  from  the  Hurricane. 

"  That  will  suit  Ab,"  says  the  Captain,  "  it  well 
help  him  to  get  up  to  the  killing." 

She  turned  in  toward  the  river,  heading  back  for 
the  big  bend.  We  pressed  on  after  them.  She  was 
soon  brought  to  a  "  stop  "  again.  Before  we  got  up, 
her  course  was  changed  in  the  direction  of  the 
camp. 

"Well,"  says  the  Captain,  ''we  had  better  save 
our  breath;  wait  here  till  she  concludes  to  stop  and 
make  fight." 

"  Csesar  and  Bess  will  keep  her  angling  about  in 
this  open  woods  till  we  get  up  in  sight.  She'll  go 
no  further  then,"  said  Temple. 

"Then,"  says  Ab,  "we  had  better  greet  them 
with  our  presence." 

Her  course  changed  again,  and  she  was  coming  full 
tilt  straight  to  where  we  were  standing.  As  she 
got  within  gun-shot  of  us,  Csesar  dashed  in,  swinging 
her  half  round.  She  broke  again,  when  the  dog 
<ilinched  her  again.  By  this  time  Bess  was  at  her 
place,  and  fast  hold  of  the  other  arm,  bringing  her 
upon  her   all-fours,   the  half-hounds  covering  her 


120  Bemmiscences  of  Old  Times 

behind.  She  made  no  further  efforts  to  break,  and 
turned  upon  the  dogs.  She  fought  hard  and  furi- 
ous. Kaising  upon  her  hind  legs,  she  shook  her 
great  body  like  an  earthquake,  to  rid  herself  of  the 
dog  and  slut.  The  dog  let  go,  and  she  made  a  ter- 
rible effort  to  get  hold  of  Bess.  In  a  moment  the 
dog  renewed  his  attack,  taking  her  close  up  to  the 
body,  brought  her  down  upon  her  side.  To  save 
himself,  he  let  go.  The  half-hounds  closed  in  upon 
her  hard  and  heavy.  She  rose  furious.  She  had 
become  desperate.  Her  other  arm  being  free,  she 
made  an  effort  to  reach  Bess.  The  slut  hung  on 
like  "grim  death,"  keeping  her  body  well  under  the 
bear.  The  fight  became  fearfully  terrific,  when 
Cary  said: 

"The  dogs  have  had  enough  of  it;  we  will  go  in 
and  end  the  fight.  Mr.  Temple,  end  the  fight,  your 
slut  will  get  hurt." 

Temple  was  of  the  same  opinion.  He  waited  a 
safe  chance  and  shot  her  through  the  heart.  She 
winced  under  it,  staggered  around  and  fell,  falling 
upon  the  slut.  Could  Bess  have  uttered  language 
suited  to  her  feelings,  she  would  have  sung: 

''  We  clicg  to  one  another  until  death  u?  do  part." 

"Well,  friend  Temple,"  said  Ab,  "your  dogs  seem 
to  be  badly  worried  this  time." 

"Yes,"  responded  he,  "it  is  always  the  case 
when  they  get  hold  of  an  old  she  that  has  cubs. 
The  only  time  the  slut  was  ever  badly  scratched  was 
by  an  old  she.  They  always  fight  harder  when  the 
cubs  are  following  them." 


m  West  Tennessee.  121 

"I  reckon,"  said  the  Captain,  "that  we  ought  to 
be  satisfied  now.  Mr.  Temple's  dogs  have  far  sur- 
passed anything  I  could  have  conceived.  They  are 
under  better  command  than  any  dogs  I  ever  saw, 
and  their  handling  a  bear  is  unsurpassed.  This  is 
our  last  day's  hunt,  and  I  think  we  ought  to  stop  on 
this.  We  have  already  killed  six  bears,  four  of 
them  aggregating  more  meat  than  any  four  bears 
that  was  ever  slaughtered  in  these  woods." 

"Don't  forget  the  turkeys,"  said  Ab;  "I  counte.d 
twelve  hanging  on  the  pole  this  morning — all  big 
gobblers — that  will,  as  you  say  by  the  four  bears, 
aggregate  in  weight  more  than  any  twelve  gobblers 
I  ever  saw." 

"Yes;"  said  the  Captain,  "we  shall  have  more 
than  the  boys  can  well  pack  home.  We  must  have 
at  least  two  thousand  pounds  of  bear  meat.  I  sug- 
gest that  we  end  the  hunt  here;  to-morrow  will  be 
Christmas,  and  my  friend  Ab  wouldn't  like  to  miss 
his  egg-nog,  and  I  want  my  little  hunter  friend's 
mother  to  have  a  fat  gobbler  for  her  Christmas 
dinner." 

It  was  agreed  to  end  the  hunt  there.  The  sun 
had  not  crossed  the  meridian.  The  hunters  assisted 
the  boys  with  the  old  she,  and  we  were  soon  at 
camp  dividing  and  packing  up. 

"What  is  in  that  big  bank  of  ashes,  there?"  said 
Ab  to  old  Jack. 

"  Why,  its  Mr.  Temple's  barr  feet.  He  put  'em 
in  dis  mornin',  and  told  us  to  mine  'em  and  keep 
'em  covered  up;  I  spec  deys  dun,  now." 

"Yes,"  said  Temple;  "I  wanted  a  good  mess  of 
6 


122  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

bear  feet  before  we  left  the  camp.  Jack,  are  they 
done,  do  you  think?  " 

''Yes,  sir;  Ise  been  smellin'  dem  some  time.  I 
knows  dey  is  done." 

"Pull  them  out,  then,"  said  Temple.  "Mind, 
don't  let  the  hair  scorch." 

Jack  rolled  out  a  couple  of  large  paws,  roasted  in 
the  ashes  to  a  smoking  done.  The  ashes  brushed 
off  clean.  Temple  forked  one  up,  stripped  off  the 
skin,  which  slipped  off  like  peeling  a  roasted  onion, 
and  a  more  delicate  morsel  was  never  greeted  by 
man's  appetite.  None  but  a  bear-hunter  knows  how 
to  roast  a  bear's  paw;  the  fore  feet  are  the  best. 
The  writer  can  testify  to  their  eating  qualities. 
Everything  being  packed,  the  hunters  parted  with 
expressions  of  mutual  gratification. 


ill  West  Tennessee,  123 


CHAPTER  YI. 

Lawyers  Riding  the  Circuit — The  Methodist  Preacher — 
The  Scalding  Gup  of  Coffee — The  Nation's  Muster — 
Bloody  Noses  and  Black  Eyes — Proposed  Prize  Fight 
— Ab  and  the  Squatter's  Wife — John  S7nith  and  Daniel 
Parker. 

The  oulj  place  for  man  and  beast  to  find  rest,  be^ 
tween  Brownsville  and  Covington,  was  at  my 
father's  house.  He  turned  no  one  away.  It  was 
the  habit,  in  those  days,  for  the  lawyers  to  "  ride  the 
circuit,"  to  attend  all  the  courts  in  the  judicial 
district  in  which  they  resided.  The  lawyers  of  Jack- 
son and  Brownsville  practiced  in  the  Circuit  Court 
at  Covington,  attending  regularly  the  fall  and  spring 
terms. 

Among  the  early  practitioners  were  Haskell,  Brad- 
ford and  Huntsman,  of  Jackson, and  Loving,  Strother 
and  Richmond,  of  Brownsville. 

JOSHUA   HASKELL 

was  the  first  Circuit  Court  Judge  in  "West  Tennes- 
see. Tall  and  good  looking,  with  great  respect  for 
his  personal,  his  manner  and  mein  marked  him  as 
a  type  of  a  well-finished  gentleman.  When  on  the 
bench,  he  commanded  the  high  respect  of  the  bar; 
maintaining,  with  propriety,  the  dignity  due  his 
high  and  honored  position.     Many  incidents  and 


124  Beminiscences  of  Old  Times 

anecdotes  occurring  in  the  practice  of  the  courts,  at 
that  early  period,  are  still  preserved.  I  am  indebted 
to  one  of  the  "  Old  Folks"— the  oldest  of  them  all-- 
perhayjs  the  only  surviving  cotemporary  of  that 
period,  for  the  following  incident  that  occurred 
during  the  first  court  held  by  Judge  Haskell  in 
Dyer  county. 

The  court  was  held  in  'Squire  Warren's  dwelling- 
house,  in  the  winter  of  1823-4.  The  house  was  a 
common  double  log  cabin,  one  end  of  which  was 
occupied  by  the  family.  Tliere  were  only  three 
cases  on  the  docket.  A  "  log-heap  "  fire  was  built 
outside  to  make  comfortable  and  warm  those  in 
attendance  upon  the  court,  who  were  not  on  the 
jury.  'Squire  Warren  was  on  the  jury.  A  trading 
boat  had  landed  at  Cherry's  blufi:',  on  the  Forked 
Deer,  from  which  a  supply  of  whisky  had  been 
obtained  by  the  neighbors,  a  portion  of  which  had 
found  its  way  to  the  'Squire's  house,  and  was  cir- 
culating freely  around  the  "log-heap"  fire,  as  well 
as  among  those  in  the  temporary  court-room;  and 
as  the  boys  grew  warm  under  the  influence  of  both 
Jires^  a  dispute  arose  between  Berry  I^ash  and  a  son 
of  the  proprietor,  young  Tom  Warren.  The  quar- 
rel culminated  in  blows.  Berry  let  fly  at  young 
Tom,  and  Tom  gave  back  blow  for  blow.  The  old 
'Squire  had  a  view  from  the  jury  box,  through  the 
cracks  of  the  logs,  of  what  was  going  on  around 
the  "log-heap"  fire.  Becoming  excited  himself,  he 
hallooed  out  at  the  top  of  his  voice  to  his  son,  "Hit 
him  again  Tom,  hit  him !  !N'ever  let  it  be  said  that  a 
man  hit  you  on  your  own  dunghill,  and  you  didn't 


in  West  Tennessee.  125 

hit  him  back!"  Tom,  hearing  the  admonition  of 
the  old  man,  went  into  the  fight  in  earnest,  and 
badly  ''  used  ap "  Berry.  The  Judge — permitting 
the  fight  to  go  on  until  it  was  ended — ordered  the 
SherifiT,  Charley  McCrarey,  to  bring  the  two  young 
men  into  court.  ^N'ash,  the  aggressor,  was  the  first 
brought  in,  a  fine  assessed,  and  the  SherifiF  ordered 
to  keep  him  in  custody  until  it  was  paid.  Young 
Warren  was  then  called  up  before  the  court,  and  the 
Judge  was  in  the  act  of  pronouncing  a  fine  against 
him,  when  the  old  'Squire  rose  from  his  seat  among 
the  jurors,  and  said: 

"Stop,  stop.  Judge;  I'd  naturally  like  to  hear  the 
law  read  that  fines  a  man  for  fighting  on  his  own 
dunghill!" 

The  late  William  R.  Hess,  a  lawyer  in  attendance, 
and  who  was  a  friend  to  both  parties,  rose,  and  pro- 
claimed that  there  was  no  such  law,  and  suggested, 
as  the  easiest  way  to  settle  the  matter,  that  the  young 
men  go  to  the  branch,  wash  their  faces,  come  back 
and  take  a  drink,  make  friends  and  go  home.  The 
jury  had  become  so  much  demoralized  by  the 
v'jnjms^  that  the  Judge  ordered  the  Sherifi*  to  ad- 
journ court,  with  the  admonition,  that  if  the  people 
of  Dyer  county  did  not  do  better  the  next  time  he 
held  court,  he  would  put  the  heads  of  all  oftenders 
"under  the  fence."  Judge  Haskell  contributed 
greatly  to  the  merriment  of  the  lawyers  and  lovers 
of  fun  in  their  journeying  around  the  circuit.  He 
enjoyed  a  good  joke. 

ALEXANDER    B.    BRADFORD, 

a  handsome  young  lawyer,  was  the  most  attractive 


%2G  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

of  the  lawyers  that  rode  the  circuit.  Dressing  well, 
he  was  ever  ck^thed  in  a  finely  fitting  suit  of  fine 
blue  broadcloth,  with  bright  buttons.  He  seemed 
to  have  been  born  in  the  habiliments  of  style — a 
very  Chesterfield  in  manners  and  address.  A  great 
favorite  with  my  mother,  he  paid  her  the  most 
courtly  respect;  a  warm  personal  friend  of  the  family, 
lie  was  ever  a  welcome  guest  at  my  father's  house. 
General  Bradford  was  among  the  earliest  and  first 
lawyers  of  West  Tennessee,  and  was  intimately  con- 
nected and  associated  with  the  practice  and  juris- 
prudence of  "West  Tennessee  from  the  organizing 
of  the  first  courts,  running  through  a  period  of  more 
than  a  quarter  of  a  century.  The  mention  of  his 
name  thrills  the  bosom  of  all  who  knew  him  and 
enjoyed  his  personal  acquaintance,  as  a  very  tyj>e  of 
a  true  man.     An  old-young  lawyer  was 

MAJOR   RICHMOND. 

A  wit  and  humorist,  everybody  enjoyed  his  society. 
He  wore  fine  clothes,  and  kept  his  fur  hat  smooth 
by  a  habit  of  using  his  coat  sleeve  for  a  brush.  The 
Major  was  gifted  with  a  fund  of  anecdote;  for  the 
most  part  original,  but  not  admissible  in  polite  read- 
ing. He  was  the  leading  lawyer  in  "  road  cases." 
He  used  to  say  of  himself,  that  he  was  "h — 1  upon 
roads."  He  was  sought  for  and  employed  in  all 
"  divorce  cases,"  and  was  the  best  crim.  con.  lawyer 
in  the  district. 

GENERAL    LOVING 

was  the  idol  of  the  bar  in  the  early  history  of  the 
courts   at   Brownsville.      His  personal   was   unex- 


in  West  Tennessee.  ^     127 

ceptiouable  and  faultless,  both  in  form,  manner  and 
features.  His  name  merits  a  high  place  in  the 
annals  and  historj^  of  Haywood. 

JOHN   W.    STROTHER,    ESQ., 

was  the  lawyer  among  the  lawyers  of  Brownsville 
in  the  early  practice  of  the  courts.  Thin  in  flesh, 
wiry  in  nerve  and  tissue,  and  careless  of  dress  and 
the  personal,  he  passed  among  strangers  for  less 
than  he  "  was  worth."  For  more  than  a  quarter  of 
a  century  he  lived  in  Brownsville.  With  great 
gentleness  of  manner,  and  purity  of  heart,  he  enjoyed 
a  reputation  worthy  the  strict  sobriety  and  purity  of 
his  conduct 

The  partj^  of  lawyers,  with  the  Judges,  stopped  at 
my  fiither's  house  to  stay  all  night,  on  their  way  to 
the  Covington  court  It  was  the  spring  term.  I 
remember  that  it  was  "gobbling  season,"  when  the 
bark  of  the  young  hickory  begins  to  slip.  It  was 
Saturday  evening.  It  was  the  aim  of  the  lawyers 
to  reach  Covington  Sunday  evening,  before  Monday, 
the  first  day  of  court.  They  were  in  no  hurry  for 
breakfast:  it  being  Sunday  morning,  nobody  was  in 
a  hurry.  All  nature  enjoys  sweet  repose  in  the  soft 
mornings  of  spring,  and  all  hands  "and  the  cook" 
are  licensed  to  sleep  late  on  Sunday  mornings  in 
the  country. 

Breakfast  was  ready  and  waiting  for  the  guests, 
when  a  couple  of  strangers  rode  up  and  asked  for 
breakfast  and  horse-feed.  My  father  told  them  to 
get  down  and  come  in,  ordering  their  horses  to  be 
taken  and  fed.     The  breakfast  was  on  the  table; 


128  Bemmiscences  of  Old  Times 

their  coming  delayed  its  being  served  up  until  they 
had  washed  their  hands  and  faces.  They  had  the 
appearance  of  having  laid  out  all  night,  but  were 
well  dressed  in  broadcloth.  On  their  coming  in 
one  of  them  introduced  himself,  and  then  intro- 
duced his  traveling  companion  as  the  Eeverend  Mr. 
Hutchington.  (The  reverend  part  need  not  have 
been  introduced,  as  all  who  were  familiar  with  the 
fashions  of  the  day  knew  from  the  cut  of  his  coat, 
which  was  a  regular  shad-belly,  that  he  was  a  Metho- 
dist preacher.) 

Breakfast  was  announced,  and  they  were  invited 
•to  seats  at  the  table.  My  father,  it  was  ever  his  cus- 
tom, said  grace — his  every  day  grace :  "  Lord  bless 
us  in  what  we  are  about  to  receive,  for  Christ's 
sake." 

The  reverend  gentleman,  as  he  raised  his  head, 
threw  a  glancing  eye  upon  the  head  of  the  family 
as  he  finished  his  short  blessing,  as  much  as  to  sa}^ : 
"  My  professional  calling  is  not  recognized."  • 

Helping  and  changing  of  plates  went  on  from  i\ 
large  dish  of  turkey  steak  (which  was  common  with 
us,  as  it  was  only  a  walk  across  the  field  to  take 
down  a  gobbler  any  morning  during  "  gobbling  sea- 
son.") 

Coffee,  an  article  of  luxury  in  those  days, 
was  dished  out  and  passed  around.  My  mother, 
ever  mindful  of  her  North  Carolina  raising,  showed 
the  agreeable,  commencing  with  the  nearest  guest: 

"  Judge  Haskell,  is  your  coffee  agreeable  ? " 
"Thank  you.  Madam,  most  agreeable.      Such  a 
cup  of  coftee  I  have  not  tasted  in  the  district." 


in  West  Tennessee,  129 

"Do  you  take  cream  in  your  coffee,' Major  Rich- 
mond?" 

"If  you  please,  Madam." 

"Colonel  Bradford,  I  neglected  to  ask  you  if  your 
coffee  was  agreeable." 

"  Madam,  it  is  nectar  itself."  Smacking  his  lips, 
he  continued  in  its  praise  until  my  father  had  to 
remind  him  that  it  would  get  cold.  Passing  around 
with  like  questions,  she  came  to  the  preacher  and 
said: 

"And  you,  sir,  is  your  coffee  agreeable?" 

"Yes,  Madam,  only  it's  a  little  cold." 

Major  Richmond's  quizzical  eye  was  upoii  him  in 
an  instant,  and  then  at  my  mother,  who  was  dumb. 

The  reverend  gentleman,  thinking  that  truth  was 
the  propriety  of  language  at  all  times,  braved  the 
cutting  of  eyes  across  the  table.  He  may  have 
aimed  an  arrow  for  not  being  called  upon  to  "  ask  a 
blessing." 

To  relieve  the  situation,  which  had  been  chilled  a 
little  by  the  cup  of  "  cold  coffee,"  the  humorous 
Major,  addressing  himself  to  the  Parson,  inquired 
where  he  and  his  friend  had  stayed  all  night. 

"  On  the  river-bank,  sir,"  he  replied,  "  with  the 
sand-beach  for  a  pillow.  We  reached  the  ferry  after 
night-fall.  The  ferryman  had  left.  After  splitting 
our  throats  hallooing  for  him,  we  made  our  c^uch 
upon  the  sand." 

"  Then  you  must  have  a  pretty  good  appetite  this 
morning,"  said  the  Major. 

"  Yes,  sir.  We  rode  all  day,  not  eating  anything 
since  yesterday  at  breakfast,  and  a  poor  one  it  was." 


130  liciiiiniscemes  of  Old  Times 

Just  then  his  "cold  cup*'  was  out  My  mother 
asked  him  if  he  would  have  another  cup  of  coifee. 
He  thanked  her,  at  the  same  time  sending  up*  his 
cup. 

In  the  meantime  a  fresh  pot  of  coffee  had  been 
brought  in,  scalding  hot,  from  which  she  filled  his 
cup  and  returned  it.  The  Major  having  him  engaged 
in  a  lively  talk,  he  had  not  observed  it  smoking ; 
thinking  it  was  like  its  predecessor,  or  possibly 
colder  still,  he  raised  it  to  his  lips  and  took  a  hearty 
sip,  filling  his  mouth  full  of  the  scalding  fluid. 
(Gimeny!)  So  unexpected,  unable  to  turn  right  or 
left  without  scalding  his  neighbor,  he  let  fly,  the 
coffee  gushing  out  of  his  mouth  like  an  inch  and  a 
half  squirt  gun  all  over  the  table.  ETot  waiting  to 
be  asked  if  his  coffee  was  "  agreeable,"  he  rose  from 
the  table  with  his  bandanna  to  his  mouth,  and  made 
for  the  water  pail. 

"  Well,"  said  his  traveling  companion,  who  seemed 
not  to  sympathize  with  him,  ''my  reverend  friend 
has  got  a  touch  of  the  blue  blazes  this  time;  wonder 
if  he  wont  prefer  it  cold  next  time?" 

The  breakfast  closed  with  the  Parson's  second  cup 
of  coffee.  The  jolly  Major  folio w<^d  him  out  to  the 
water  pail  condoling  with  him,  for  he  was  terribly 
scalded.  My  mother  soon  followed  with  a  cup  of 
new  cream,  offering  a  thousand  apologies  for  not 
informing  him  that  she  had  filled  his  cap  from  a 
fresh  pot,  and  explaining  how  it  was  that  his  first 
cup  was  cold,  pressing  upon  him  to  take  a  moutliful 
of  c<Ad  cream,  that  it  would  alleviate  his  suffering; 
she  was  so  sorry,  regretted  so  much  the  mishap,  and 


in  West  Tennessee.  131 

hoped  that  he  would  soon  be  well  of  it.  The  inci- 
dent of  the  Methodist  preacher,  and  the  hot  cup  of 
coffee,  was  ever  remembered  by  the  party  present 
on  that  Sabbath  morning,  and  served  as  an  amusing 
topic  for  many  years  afterward. 

The  settlements  north  of  the  Big  Hatchie,  in  Tip- 
ton, had  began  to  form  voting  precincts  and  orga- 
nize the  militia.  A  battalion  muster  was  to  come 
off  that  spring  at  Hurricane  Hill.  A  big  muster  in 
those  days  attracted  every  one;  the  old,  who  had 
passed  muster,  as  well  as  the  under  age;  men,  women, 
children  and  negroes  gathered  at  a  muster.  Cakes 
and  pies,  with  beer  and  cider,  was  always  on  hand 
in  thick  profusion;  not  unfrequently  a  barrel  of 
" red-eye"  was  found  on  tap  under  the  hill  near  the 
spring.  The  drum  and  fife  (no  company  was  allowed 
to  be  mustered  in  without  its  drum  and  fife  Major) 
was  music  most  divine,  bringing  out  the  most  thrill- 
ing patriotic  demonstrations.  The  drum  and  the 
fife,  to  the  tune  of  "Yankee  Doodle"  and  the  *' Jay 
bird  died  with  the  whooping  cough,"  failed  not  to 
arouse  the  "  spread  eagle  "  in  everybody's  bosom — 
glorious  days  was  "old  times."  General  Jackson, 
the  military  chieftain  of  the  age,  was  the  rising  man 
for  the  Presidency ;  the  eighth  of  January  was  yet 
fresh  in  the  land;  a  military  parade  was  most  enthu- 
sing ;  it  Avas  the  sovereign's  day,  a  nation's  muster.  The 
settlements  all  turned  out  to  the  big  muster  at  Hurri- 
cane Hill  that  day.  The  gathering  of  the  deni- 
zens culminated  early.  The  Lieutenants,  with  their 
drummers,  had  taken  their  positions  to  foim.  From 
half  a  dozen  hillocks,  or  shady  places,  was  heard: 


132  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

"  Oh  yes !  oh  yes !  all  who  belong  to  Captain  Jones' 
company  will  fall  into  ranks." 

"  Oh  yes !  oh  yes !  Captain  Barnes'  company  will 
form;  fall  into  ranks." 

"  Oh  yes !  oh  yes !  Captain  Smith's  company  will- 
fall  into  ranks."  Thus  went  the  rounds  until  the 
different  companies  composing  the  battalion  w^ere 
formed.     Then  commenced  the  drilling: 

"Eyes  right,  and  dress!  Shoulder  arms!  Order 
arms !  Drop  your  butts  square  upon  the  ground,  with 
the  cocks  behind!  Keep  your  left  arms  straight  down 
your  left  leg.  ]^ow,  shoulder  arms ! "  Thus  the  drill 
continued  until  mustered  off  by  the  Adjutant  Major 
and  formed  into  battalion,  and  marched  out  to  the 
field  for  further  manceuvering  according  to  "  Scott's 
tactics." 

The  mustering  over,  the  battalion  was  marched 
back  to  the  store  and  disbanded,  when  a  rush  was 
made  for  the  cake  and  beer  stands,  many  finding 
their  way  to  the  barrel  of  ''  red-eye "  on  tap  under 
the  hill.  As  the  day  began  to  wane,  the  spirit  of  the 
"  critter  "  began  to  brew  the  usual  fights.  A  squad 
of  jolly  fellows  made  a  raid  on  one  of  the  pie  and 
cake  stands,  lead  by  the  "Bully  of  the  Hill,"  Ab 
Gaines.  Gaines  had  gotten  hold  of  the  young  ven- 
dor of  the  pies  and  cakes  by  the  nap  of  his  neck, 
handling  him  roughly — thumping  his  head  against 
the  cake  stand — while  his  chums  were  filling  their 
pockets.  John  Barnes,  the  blacksmith,  was  stand- 
ing near,  and  being  a  friend  to  the  young  man, 
beside  an  advocate  of  fair  play,  he  remonstrated 
with  the  "Bully  of  the  Hill."     Gaines  resented  the 


in  West  Tennessee.  133 

interference  in  a  menacing  manner,  when  Barnes 
let  drive,  sprawling  him  upon  the  ground,  with  the 
remark:  "You  coward;  you  have  bullied  this  Hilllong 
enough  !  "  Ab  rose  to  his  feet  and  "  went  for  "  Barnes, 
making  a  pass.  Barnes  was  too  quick  for  him,  and 
Ab  went  to  the  ground  again.  In  the  meantime 
the  friends  of  the  parties  had  began  to  close  in  and 
around.  The  writer,  yet  in  his  early  teens,  mounted 
the  cake  stand  to  get  out  of  the  w^ay,  and  to  obtain 
a  better  view  of  the  fight.  Gaines  rose  to  his  feet 
again,  cried  "  fair  play,"  and  w^ent  at  Barnes  the  third 
time,  when  a  well  placed  blow,  over  his  left  temple 
and  eye,  brought  him  to  the  ground  harder  than 
ever.  A  general  fight  had  begun ;  a  dozen  or  more 
men  were  having  a  regular  "set-to."  I^one  at- 
tempted to  interfere  or  part  them;  eyes  and  noses 
were  suffering  terribly;  they  fought  on  until  "each 
man  had  whipped  his  man."  Ab  was  the  first  to 
propose  a  truce.  With  difficulty  he  arose  to  his  feet 
after  the  third  knock-down,  and  said : 

"  You  are  more  than  a  match  for  me  to-day.  I  am 
not  in  a  fix  to  fight  to-day.  I  am  drunk;  too  drunk 
to  hold  you  a  good  fight.     I'll  see  you  again." 

"You  can  see  me  whenever  it  may  suit  you.  I 
take  no  advantage  of  a  drunken  man.  I  will  meet 
you  in  a  'square  fight'  whenever  it  niaj^  please  you 
to  name  the  time  and  place,"  said  Barnes. 

"It  had  as  well  be  on  this  Hill,  and  this  day  two 
weeks;  I  will  be  here  with  my  friends,"  said 
Gaines. 

"It  suits  me,"  said  Barnes;  "name  the  hour. 

"Let  it  be  an  hour  to  sunset,"  responded  Gaines- 


134  Eemmisccnces  of  Old  Times 

"  I'll  be  here,"  said  Barnes,  when  he  separated 
himself  from  the  crowd. 

The  interest  taken  in  the  coming  "  square  fight," 
between  two  of  the  most  powerful  men  in  the  settle- 
ment, had  caused  the  other  belligerents  to  forget 
their  differences.  Black  eyes  and  bloody  noses  only 
remained  to  give  evidence  of  the  bloody  "  set-to " 
that  had  just  occurred.  All  hands  made  friends, 
took  a  drink,  and  went  home. 

It  was  soon  norrated  through  the  settlement  that 
Ab  Gaines  and  John  Barnes  were  to  have  a  "square 
fight;"  that  the  bully  of  Hurricane  Hill  had  found 
his  match.  It  was  a  matter  of  much  surprise,  how- 
ever, to  the  sober,  steady  men  of  the  neighborhood 
that  a  man  of  Barnes'  steady  habits  should  enter 
the  list  of  prize  fighters.  It  was  agreed,  however, 
that  Ab  needed  taking  down,  and  no  man  could  be 
found  better  able  to  do  it  than  Barnes.  Gaines  was 
the  heaviest  man  of  the  two ;  he  stood  full  six  feet 
five,  broad  and  deep  through  the  chest,  and  wore  a 
number  eleven  shoe;  and  a  hand — it  was  difficult  to 
find  a  glove  large  enough  to  fit.  Barnes,  less  in 
pounds  and  inches,  was  greatly  his  superior  in  the 
material  of  flesh,  tissue  and  muscle.  Made  more  pow- 
erful by  hard  licks  at  the  anvil,  he  had  never  failed 
in  an  enterprise  or  undertaking  dependent  upon 
his  manhood. 

Time  was  required  for  Ab  to  work  the  mean 
whisky  out  of  him,  and  reduce  himself  in  flesh. 
Could  he  do  it?  was  the  grave  question  among  his 
intimate  friends.  Their  coming  together  upon  equal 
advantages   was   fearful   to  contemplate.      Barnes' 


in  West  Tennessee.  135 

courage  was  undoubted;  Gaines  bad  played  tbe 
bully,  but  had  never  sought  his  match;  it  was 
doubted  whether  he  had  the  courage  of  his  adver- 
sary in  the  coming  conflict.  As  the  time  drew  nigh 
for  them  to  meet,  it  was  whispered  through  the 
neighborhood  that  Ab  was  softening — that  be  would 
"flicker.''  Bets  were  being  freely  offered  that  he 
wouldn't  come  to  time,  and  found  no  takers.  His 
friends  began  to  rally  him;  the  boasting  and  big 
talk  on  their  part  had  "  dried  up."  Ab,  through  the 
aid  of  his  friends,  had  well  nigh  gotten  the  whisky 
out  of  himself,  and  cheered  on  to  the  conflict,  when, 
a  few  days  before  the  appointed  day,  he,  with  several 
of  his  friends,  were  at  the  Hill,  and  he  got  a  taste  of 
whisky.  He  tasted  often,  and  drank  deep;  his 
friends  could  do  nothing  with  him.  In  their  efforts 
to  keep  him  from  drinking  too  much,  he  "let  fly" 
with  that  great  fist  of  his  and  smashed  several  of 
their  noses,  and  they  left  him  to  his  fate.  They  had 
gone  before  he  discovered  that  he  was  alone.  With 
some  difiiculty  he  got  on  his  hor§e  and  started  for 
home.  In  going  home  he  had  to  pass  a  squatter  set- 
tler's house  situated  on  the  roadside.  When  getting 
near  the  squatter^ s  house,  he  observed  a  man  flailing 
a  woman  in  the  front  yard.  Spurring  up  his  horse, 
he  went  to  her  rescue.  The  squatter  had  his  wife 
by  the  hair  of  her  head,  slinging  her  around,  when 
Ab  took  hold  of  him,  jerking  him  loose  from  his 
hold  upon  her  hair  and  flat  of  his  back,  and  com- 
menced pounding  him  heavily  in  the  face.  The 
wife,  freed  from  the  rough  handling  of  her  husband, 
turned  upon  Gaines.     Seizing  an  ax   that  lay  near, 


136  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

she  sent  it  into  his  back  up  to  the  eye,  leaving  it 
sticking  in  him,  with  the  remark:  "Now,  let  my 
husband  alone."  Ab  rolled  oft*  the  squatter,  crying 
out,  "Murder!  murder!" 

The  husband  rose  to  his  feet  and  pulled  the  ax 
out  of  his  back,  when  the  rush  of  blood  was  most 
fearful.  Mounting  Ab's  horse,  he  rode  for  the  near- 
est doctor  as  fast  as  he  could,  who  was  soon  in 
attendance,  and  examined  the  fearful  cut.  The  ax 
had  gone  in  over  the  region  of  the  liver,  severing 
one  or  more  ribs,  and  cutting  off"  a  portion  of  the 
liver,  which  the  Doctor  took  out.  The  bleeding 
was  profuse,  and  the  Doctor  pronounced  it  fatal. 

"There  is  no  hope  for  you,  Ab,"  he  said ;  "the 
bleeding  is  internal  and  can't  be  stanched.  If  you 
have  any  w^orldly  affairs  about  which  you  want  to 
leave  instructions,  it  will  be  well  that  you  go  about 
it." 

"  I  have  none,"  said  Gaines.  "  Only  one  request 
will  I  make.  You  say  there  is  no  hope;  then  my 
last  request  is,  that  you  will  send  up  to  the  store 
and  get  me  a  gallon  of  whisky." 

"  You  shall  have  it,  Ab,"  replied  the  Doctor. 

The  squatter,  with  the  aid  of  his  wife  and  the 
Doctor,  got  Ab  in  the  house,  and  fixed  a  pallet  on 
the  floor.  He  then  rode  to  the  store  for  the  whisky. 
The  Doctor  remained  until  the  squatter  returned 
with  the  jug  of  whisky.  A  tin  cup  was  provided, 
and  Ab  told  to  drink  at  his  pleasure. 

The  Doctor  left  him  with  his  comforter,  saying 
that  he  would  ride  over  the  next  morning. 

The  next  day,  to  the  astonishment  of  the  Doctor, 


in  West  Tennessee.  137 

he  found  Ab  alive,  and  tlie  jug  empty.  He  finally 
recovered,  but  was  i^ever  himself  again.  The  apol- 
ogy for  not  meeting  Barnes  in  a  test  of  manhood  -at 
the  "Hill"  on  the  following  Saturday  was  satisfac- 
tory. 

About  this  time  the  upper  settlement  was  enjoying 
the  relative  merits  of  the  manhood  of  John  Smith 
and  Daoiel  Parker.  Both  of  them  being  quiet,  good 
neighbors,  and  regular  attendants  at  church,  they 
startled  the  neighborhood  by  2i  falling  out.  Acotem- 
porary  of  ''  old  times,"  on  the  Big  Lagoon,  relates 
the  occurrence  to  me  in  this  wise: 

Smith  engaged  Parker  to  dig  him  a  well.  The 
price  for  digging  it  was  agreed  upon.  According  to 
Smith's  words,  Parker  would  find  water  in  thirty 
feet,  and  the  price  to  be  paid  was  twenty-five  ears 
of  corn  per  foot,  which  would  be  seven  bushels  and 
a  half.  Corn  was  then  selling  at  two  dollars  per 
bushel.  The  bargain  was  made  in  the  spring  of  the 
year.  Parker  was  to  go  to  work  right  away,  and  to 
take  one-half  of  the  number  in  roast  big -ears,  as  soon 
as  Smith's  corn  was  old  enough.  Parker  was  slow 
in  commencing  the'  job,  digging  all  through  t^e 
roasting-ear  season,  taking  home  with  him  every 
night  as^many  roasting-ears  as  his  day's  labor  would 
come  to.  His  family  was  large,  and  it  was  their 
only  bread.  The  digging  continued  until  the  depth 
of  thirty  feet  had  been  reached.  The  corn,  in  the 
meantime,  had  got  hard;  Parker  continuing,  how- 
ever, to  take  his  twenty  or  more  ears  home  every 
night,  w^hich  would  be  grated  and  bread  made  of  it. 
By  the   time   the  thirty  feet  was  reached  Parker 


138  Beminiscences  of  Old  Times 

had  taken  up  three  hundred  or  more  ears,  and  had 
not  come  to  water,  and,  from  the  signs,  was  not 
likely  to  find  it  in  perhaps  thirty  feet  more  of  dig- 
ging. A  "  water  witeh  "  had,  with  his  "  witch-hazle" 
twig,  located  the  place  for  digging  the  well,  and 
given  his  guarantee  to  Smith  that  water  would  be 
found  in  thirty  feet  from  the  surface.  Smith's  faith 
in  the  mystic  art  had  induced  him  to  name  thirty 
feet  as  the  distance  Parker  would  have  to  dig  to  find 
water.  The  average  wells  of  the  neighborhood  were 
sixty  feet,  and  Parker  declined  digging  any  deeper 
unless  he  got  an  increased  number  of  ears  of  corn 
per  foot.  Smith  was  not  willing  to  accord  it,  and 
the  digging  stopped.  Smith  was  excitable  by  nature, 
a  man  of  immense  size  in  flesh,  and  the  heaviest 
man  in  the  neighborhood  by  an  hundred  pounds. 
He  vowed,  and  swore  he  would  stand  by  it,  that  if 
Parker  didn't  continue  digging  until  he  found  water, 
he  should  not  have  another  ear  of  corn.  Parker, 
whose  frame  of  bones  was  capable  of  carrying  more 
flesh  than  Smith's  did,  the  largest  raiv-bony  man  in  the 
settlement,  and  with  all  an  acknowledged  good 
fighter,  swore  that  if  Smith  didn't  let  him  have  the 
number  of  ears  due  him  on  the  digging,  he  would 
whip  it  out  of  him.  Smith  was  firm  and  Parker 
resolute.  They  soon  met.  It  was  on  road-working 
day,  where  all  the  neighborhood  had  gathered  to 
work  on  the  road.  Each  party  had  their  friends, 
and  the  fight  was  to  be  a  fair  one;  no  interference 
until  Parker  had  whipped  his  two  hundred  and  fifty 
ears  of  corn  out  of  Smith,  if  he  should  prefer  that 
kind  of  a  settlement.      Smith  announced  that  he 


'  in  West  Tennessee.  139 

was  willing  to  that  kind  of  a  settlement,  if  it  would 
satisfy  Parker,  when  he  got  through.  So  at  it  they 
went,  stripped  to  their  shirts.  Smith  was  amiable 
in  standing  fair  for  Parker's  blows,  making  it  his  aim 
to  keep  them  out  of  his  face  and  e3^es,  showing  him- 
self an  adept  in  fencing  oiF  the  well  aimed  blows  at 
his  head  and  face.  Parker,  becoming  a  little  weary 
in  his  futile  effort  in  that  direction,  commenced  his 
heavy  digs  in  Smith's  short  ribs,  and  what  he  con- 
ceived to  be  the  tender  place,  about  the  pit  of  his 
stomach,  belaboring  himself  in  using  first  one  fist 
and  then  the  other,  until  he  was  well  nigh  exhausted. 
In  the  meantime  Smith's  friends  yelled  out  that 
Parker  ought  to  be  satisfied,  when  Parker,  becoming 
good  natured  all  at  once,  declared  himself  satisfied, 
saying  that  he  would  as  soon  undertake  to  fight  a 
bag  of  feathers. 

"And,"  says  Smith,  "I  would  as  soon  undertake 
to  strike  at  a  horn-beam  stump." 


140  Rmiiniscences  of  Old  Times 


CHAPTER  VII. 

The  Character  of  the  Men  who  Settled  West  Tennessee — 
Tipton  County,  its  Original  Territory  and  Topographical 
Features — Organization  and  Officers  of  the  First  Courts 
—  The  First  Venire  of  Grand  and  Petit  Juries — Jacob 
Tipton — Uohert  Sanford — Covington — The  first  Mer- 
chants—  The  First  Physicians — The  Calmes  Tavern — 
The  Tavern- Keeper — The  Boys  about  Town — The  New 
Sign  and  the  Bell-Ringing — The  Calves  in  the  Court- 
House — Holnhousefs  Court — Old  Johnny  Giddins — 
Tacket  Kills  Mitchell — Gray  Case;  his  Life  Staked  upon 
a  Game  of  Cards — Rufus  Garland — Grandville  D. 
Searcy — The  Fourth  of  July  Celebration — Charles  G. 
Fisher — Nathan  Adams — William  Coward  and  the  Wolf 
Story — Armstead  Morehead — David,  Crockett  and  his 
Competitors  for  Congress. 

It  was  not  from  the  cesspools  and  scum  of  the 
society  of  old  States  that  West  Tennessee  was  peo- 
pled. The  rich  and  fertile  virgin  lands  of  the  dis- 
trict early  attracted  the  enterprising  and  industrious 
men  of  wealth  and  intelligence,  the  strongest  and 
best  material  from  the  old  States — a  historic  fact 
well  attested  by  many  now  living  who  have  kept 
pace  with  "  ever  marching  time." 

The  brave  hearts  and  strong  arms  of  the  heroic 
fathers,  husbands  and  sons  were  nobly  sustained  by 
the  heroism  of  their  wives,  mothers  and  daughters, 


in  West  Te7iness€e,  141 

who  shared  with  them  the  toils  and  hardships  of 
subduing  the  wilderness. 

Oh,  ye  daughters  of  sunshine  and  ease !  ye  lovely 
women  of  romance  and  pleasure  I  ye  dwellers  in  the 
gay  "social  solitude!"  ye  revelers  in  the  fashions 
of  gay  city  life,  delicate  exotics  of  a  soft,  luxuriant 
society !  think  of  the  noble,  brave-hearted  mothers, 
wives  and  daughters  who  triumphantly  battled 
against  the  perils  and  hardships  of  a  frontier  life, 
aiding  and  encouragingtheir  husbands,  fathers,  sons 
and  brothers  in  subduing  the  forests  and  opening  up 
the  wildwoods,  making  it  the  fitting  abode  for  refined 
civilized  enjoyment.  Noble  mothers  !  Fond  mem- 
ories of  their  heroism  are  embalmed  in  the  heart's 
affection,  the  common  heritage  of  their  successors. 

The  eye  of  the  traveler  when  passing  through  West 
Tennessee  of  the  present  day  is  amazed  with  pleas- 
urable delight  in  seeing  its  broad  acres  teeming  with 
wealth  and  luxury,  with  its  beautifully  built  cities 
and  towns,  its  lovely  resident  mansions  and  refined 
and  elegant  society,  and  wonders  when  told  that  it 
is  all  the  growth  of  less  than  half  a  century;  that  of 
the  early  settlers,  who  came  with  the  pocket-compass 
in  their  hands,  followed  by  the  blazer  with  his  ax, 
many  are  yet  among  the  active  men  of  the  present 
day — are  j^et  living  to  recount  where  the  first 
"  corner-stone  "  was  laid,  and  point  to  where  the  first 
tent  was  pitched  in  the  wilderness.  The  limits  of 
these  reminiscences,  however,  is  restricted  alone  to 
the  past,  to  "  old  times,"  and  it  is  of  Tipton  and  Cov- 
ington that  I  would  write  in  this  chapter. 

It  was  not  until  the  year^  1818  that  the  Chickasaw 


142  Beminiscences  of  Old  Times 

title  to  the  lands  west  of  the  Tennessee  river,  within 
the  limits  of  the  State,  was  extinguished.  The  year 
following,  1819,  by  an  act  of  the  Legislature,  the 
territory  known  as  the  Big  Hatchie  country  was 
attached  for  judicial  purposes  to  the  county  of  Har- 
din. In  1821,  by  the  act  fixing  the  boundaries  of 
Madison  and  Shelby,  the  territory  forming  the  county 
of  Tipton  was  attached  to  Shelby,  until  1823,  when 
it  became  a  separate  and  independent  county,  and 
the  boundaries  established.  ^ 

Bordering  on  the  Mississippi  river  to  the  west, 
to  the  north  and  south  by  the  waters  of  the  Forked 
Deer  and  Loosa  Hatchie,  with  the  Big  Hatchie 
running  through  the  center,  no  county  in  the  State 
could  boast  of  so  rich  a  body  of  virgin  lands,  or 
oflered  such  inducements  to  the  enterprising  agri- 
culturist. The  topographical  features  of  the  county 
differ  but  little  from  the  other  counties  in  West 
Tennessee,  noted  only  for  its  beautiful  western  front, 
overlooking  the  great  river.  The  "Mill  Stone 
Mountain,"  an  mteresting  feature,  found  among  the 
range  of  hills  bordering  on  the  Big  Hatchie,  near 
itB  mouth — a  novelty  of  itself — is  the  more  inter- 
esting for  its  being  a  solid  mass  of  concrete  rock, 
from  which  is  wrought  the  best  mill-stones  in  use ; 
said  to  be  equal,  if  not  better,  than  the  celebrated 
French  burr.  Less  than  a  half  mile  in  diameter  at 
its  base,  it  rises  in  cone  shape  from  the  banks  of  the 
Hatchie,  towering  above  the  tallest  forest  trees,  its 
apex  perfectly  level,  overlooking  the  surrounding 
country.  Above  and  near  it,  on  the  banks  of  the 
Hatchie,  is  a  well  marked  ancient  fortification,  from 


in  West  Tennessee.  143 

the  foot-prints  of  time  judged  to  belong  to  the  pe- 
riod when  the  "  Mound  Race  "  inhabited  the  country. 
The  location  seems  to  have  been  well  taken,  in  an 
abrupt  bend  of  the  river,  and  constructed  after  the 
manner  of  constructing  fortifications  in  modern 
days;  in  the  ditch  forming  a  crescent  towards  the 
land-front,  numerous  forest  trees  are  growing  of 
huge  size,  in  age  apparently  equal  to  the  oldest  in 
the  forest.  Within  the  fortification  are  several 
*' mounds,"  from  which  human  bones  have  been 
taken,  with  specimens  of  pottery  or  earthen  ware. 
It  is  related  to  the  writer,  by  a  descendant  of  one  of 
the  oldest  and  first  settlers  in  Tipton,  that  many 
years  ago  a  fragment  of  a  well  burnt  brick  was 
picked  up  in  the  vicinity  of  this  ancient  fortification, 
upon  which  the  foot-print  of  a  goat  w^as  well  defined. 
To  suppose  about  it,  would  be  that  the  goat  left  his 
foot-print  upon  the  brick  while  lying  upon  the  yard, 
and  before  it  was  put  into  the  kiln  to  be  burnt. 
In  the  same  vicinity,  many  feet  below  the  surface  of 
the  earth,  charcoal  and  charred  pieces  of  wood  have 
been  dug  up.  That  brickbat,  as  well  as  the  old 
fortification  with  its  connecting  history,  must  be  left 
to  the  pen  of  the  curious,  who  may  assume  to  write 
of  the  period  beyond  the  dark  ages;  of  an  extinct 
race  whose  only  history  is  left  in  the  silent  tombs  of 
their  own  making,  possibly  before  E'oah  was  called 
upon  to  lay  the  keel  and  temper  the  ribs  of  the  ark. 

It  is  of  Tipton  and  the  first  settlers  under  the  do- 
minion of  the  State  of  Tennessee  that  I  w^rite. 

On  the  first  day  of  December,  1823,  the  first  court 
was  organized  and  held  at  the  house  of  Nathan 


144  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

Ilartsfield,  two  or  more  miles  southwest  of  where 
Covington  now  stands.  It  was  organized  and  held 
by  the  iirst  magistrates  appointed  for  the  county  by 
Governor  Carroll,  and  were  Nathan  Hartsfield,  John 
T.  Brown,  Jacob  Tipton,  Andrew  Greer,  John  C. 
McKean  ahd  George  Robinson.  John  C.  McKean 
was  made  chairman  of  the  court.  The  court  being 
organized,  they  went  into  an  election  for  county 
officers,  which  resulted  as  follows  : 

Andrew  Greer,  Clerk;  John  T.  Brown,  Sherift*: 
I^athan  Hartsfield,  Register;  William  Henson,  Ran- 
ger; George  Robinson,  Coroner.  It  may  be  observed 
that  the  members  of  the  court  elected  themselves 
to  the  first  offices  of  the  county.  We  are  not  to 
conclude,  however,  that  it  was  for  the  emoluments, 
but  for  the  lack  of  material  in  men  to  fill  them.  It 
is  mentioned  as  an  instance  of  the  sparseness  of  the 
inhabitants  of  the  county,  that  in  that  year  the  first 
wedding  took  place,  and  every  white  family  in  the 
county  was  invited,  and  when  gathered  together 
the  male  adults  numbered  not  more  than  sixty. 

It  may  not  be  uninteresting  to  the  readers  of  Old 
Times  in  Tipton,  to  read  over  the  first  venire  from 
which  the  petit  and  grand  jurors  were  chosen  for 
the  first  courts  held  in  the  county  after  the  organi- 
zation, on  the  first  of  December,  1823.  They  were 
Owen  Evans,  Samuel  P.  Givens,  Matthew  Isaacs, 
Matthew  Alexander,  Alexander  Robinson,  Daniel 
Young,  William  Wright,  William  Henson,  John 
Smith,  K  Elliot,  G.  Yarbrough,  Clarke  Burdsall, 
M.  Hutchinson,  William  Robinson,  Samuel  Robin- 
son, A.  R.  Logan,  Jubilee  Gagin,  G.  Kenney,  John 


m  West  Tennessee.  145 

Robinson,. Tefferson  Childress  and  Addison  D.  Packs- 
ton.  Of  these  names,  inchiding  the  members  and 
officers,  none  are  now  among  the  living.  In  1824 
the  county  site  was  located  at 

COVINGTON, 

and  in  1825  the  town  was  laid  off,  and  the  lots  sold 
at  public  sale,  on  the  twelfth  day  of  April  of  that 
year,  by  commissioners  appointed  by  the  court.  The 
commissioners  were  Marcus  Calmes,  John  Eckford, 
Robert  G.  Green,  E.  T.  Pope  and  Alexander  Robin- 
son. Covington  is  beautifully  situated  on  an  emi- 
nence overlooking  the  surrounding  range  of  hills. 
Within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  public  square  gushes 
a  bold  spring,  capable  of  affording  water  for  a 
populous  city,  beside  numerous  smaller  ones  of 
excellent  water.  The  town,  when  located  and  estab- 
lished as  the  county  site,  was  near  the  center  of  the 
cownty,  which  comprised  a  large  and  fertile  territory 
north  of  the  Big  Hatchie.  In  1836  the  county  of 
Lauderdale  was  established,  leaving  Tipton  alone 
south  of  the  Hatchie,  and  Covington  within  six 
miles  of  its  northern  boundary. 

The  county  was  called  for  the  gallant  Jacob  Tip- 
ton, who  was  killed  while  leading  his  men  in  a  charge 
against  the  Indians,  near  Fort  Washington,  under 
command  of  General  St.  Clair,  in  1791.  History* 
mentions  that  when  the  intrepid  Captain  was  on  the 
eve  of  moving  with  his  command  to  the  support  of 
General  St.  Clair,  and  after  he  had  mounted  his 
horse,  he  rode  back  in  hearing  of  his  wife,  and  left 
with  her,  as  his  last  request,  that  if  he  should  be 

*Rampey. 

7 


146  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

■* 
killed  in  the  perilous  service  he  was  about  entering, 
to  change  the  name  of  their  youngest  son,  who  had 
been  named  Armsted  Blevins.  to  Jacob.  (Rot  Wil- 
liam, as  is  mentioned  in  Ramsey's  history.  The 
writer  is  enabled  to  make  this  correction  by  author- 
ity of  the  immediate  family  of  the  late  General 
Tipton.)  On  the  fourth  of  iN^ovember,  1791,  the 
brave  Captain  w^as  killed,  and  his  last  injunction  to 
his  wife  was  complied  with,  and  Armsted  Blevins 
became  Jacob ;  the  late  General  Jacob  Tipton ,  among 
the  first  and  most  prominent  settlers  in  Tipton 
county.  He  was  appointed  to  the  clerkship  of  the 
Circuit  Court  upon  its  organization  in  the  count}^ 
which  office  he  filled  for  many  years.  One  of 
nature's  noblemen,  he  was  noted  for  his  kind  and 
'generous  hospitalities  and  courteous  mien.  A  good 
and  true  man,  his  long  and  useful  life  was  spent 
where  he  first  settled,  breathing  his  last  midst -his 
family  and  numerous  friends  in  the  old  homestead. 
His  name  and  his  noble  life  fills  an  honored  page 
in  the  early  history  of  Tipton  county. 

ROBERT    SANFORD 

succeeded  to  the  office  of  Clerk  of  the  Circuit  Court 
of  Tipton.  He  was  called  from  the  plow-handle, 
and  learned  to  handle  the  pen  in  the  Clerk's  office 
as  deputy  clerk.  He  soon  became  master  of  the 
situation,  conducting  the  office  with  such  marked 
intelligence  and  business  precision  that  it  was  not 
long  before  he  became  the  de  facto  Clerk.  He  was 
continued  in  the  office  by  the  votes  of  his  fellow- 
citizens  for  many  long  years.  Living  to  a  ripe  old 
age,  highly  esteemed  and  venerated,  he  was  gathered 


in  West  Tennessee.  147 

to  his  fathers,  and  sleeps  among  the  tombs  of  his 
deceased  cotemporaries. 

Covington  had  its  steady,  sober — always  sober — 
men,  beside  its  frolicsome  and  rolicsome  boys. 
Among  the  early  settlers  and  merchants  of  the 
place  was  Major  Armsted  Morehead.  The  Major, 
after  a  residence  of  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  century, 
fixed  his  residence  in  the  vicinity  of  Memphis, 
where  he  still  resides,  honored  and  esteemed  as  an 
honest,  upright  man.  For  twenty  odd  years  he  has 
supplied  annually  the  market  of  Memphis  with 
choice  watermelons  of  his  own  raising;  having 
reached  his  three-score  and  ten  years,  he  is  yet 
found,  as  always  heretofore,  driving  his  own  team. 

Marcus  Calmes  owned  and  kept  the  only  tavern 
in  Covington.  He  had  been  elected  Sheriff  of  the 
county;  the  duties  of  the  office  conflicting  with  his 
tavern  keeping,  he  offered  to  sell  or  lease  his  tavern; 

Good  schools  had  been  established  in  Covington* 
My  father  had  decided  to  move  there  to  educate  his 
children.  It  was  suggested  to  him  that  he  had  made 
reputation  among  the  lawyers,  riding  the  circuits, 
for  feeding^' man  and  beast;"  that  he  would  do  well 
to  lease  Calmes'  tavern,  and  make  money  while  his 
children  were  going  to  school.  Obtaining  my 
mother's  consent  for  him  to  become  a  tavern- 
keeper  in  Covington,  he  entered  upon  his  new  en- 
terprise. 

THE  OLD  LOG  TAVERN, 

situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  public  square  in 
Covington,  is,  or  was,  standing  a  few  years  ago.  It 
was  built   in  1824  or  '25,  of  hewed  logs,  sixty  feet 


148  Beminiscences  of  Old  Times 

long  by  twenty  wide;  two  stories  high,  a  frame  shed 
in  the  rear  its  full  length,  and  a  broad  front  gallery, 
with  sleeping  apartments  overhead,  containing  ten 
rooms,  including  the  dining  room  and  ball  room. 
The  ball  room  was  large,  and  when  a  press  of  guests 
came  in,  it  was  filled  with  cots  and  beds,  which 
only  occurred  when  court  was  in  session,  or  on  the 
occasion  of  a  general  muster.  My  father  entered 
earnestly  upon  the  duties  of  tavern-keeping,  enter- 
taining all  the  travelers  and  many  boarders.  Cov- 
ington soon  began  to  be  a  thriving  village,  with  brick 
stores  and  handsomely  built  frame  dwellings,  painted 
white,  with  green  blinds.  Its  first  settlers  were 
of  the  first  families  from  the  old  States  and  Middle 
Tennessee.  The  rich,  fertile  lands  of  the  county 
invited  wealth  and  enterprise.  Among  the  leading 
merchants  of  Covington  were  Booker,  Clarkston, 
Holmes,  Adams,  Clarke,  Smith  and  Morehead. 
The  doctors  were  Stone,  Green,  Fisher,  Hall,  and 
David  Taylor  Woodward  Cook,  the  latter  a  capital 
good  fiddler.  Old  Dr.  Cook  was  a  great  favorite 
with  the  boys  and  all  lovers  of  good  music.  The 
practice  of  physic  was  an  after-thought  with  him. 
The  lawyers  were  Robert  G.  Green,  Tom  Taylor, 
*  an  old  widower,'  and  Grandville  D.  Searcy,  young 
and  sprightly.  Phil  Glen  and  Yankee  White  were 
added  to  the  list  a  few  years  after. 

The  Methodists,  Presbyterians  and  Baptists  had 
good  churches.  In  those  days  everybody  went  to 
church  on  Sundays.  It  was  a  great  day  for  the 
exhibition  of  gallantry  and  finery.  A  young  man  felt 
lonely  in  going  to  church  without  a  young  lady 
swinging  to  his  left  arm. 


in  West  Tennessee.  149 

No  town  or  village  in  the  western  district  had  better 
schools  at  that  time  than  Covington.  The  Eeverend 
Doctor  Chapman  long  connected  with,  and  late  the 
President  of  Chapel  Hill,  l!^orth  Carolinaj  filled  a 
high  place  both  in  the  church  and  educational  de- 
partment. His  family  was  an  acquisition  to  the 
society  of  Covington. 

Among  the  men  of  wealth  and  personal  merit, 
who  earl}^  settled  in  the  vicinity  of  Covington,  were 
the  Tiptons,  Dunhams,  Garlands,  Browns,  Kober- 
sons,  Hills,  Harpers,  Pryors,  Lauderdales,  Cowards, 
Cottons,  Taylors,  and  many  others  whose  names 
are  identified  with  the  early  settlement  of  the  Big 
Hatchie  country — connecting  the  past  with  the 
present. 

Covington  was  not  without  its  dancing  master 
in  those  days.  Who  of  us,  who  were  young  then, 
who  learned  how  to  "  forward  and  back — one — two 
— three — four  and  five,  and  back  to  ^^lace,  swing 
corners  and  balance  all,"  that  don't  remember  old 
man  Chapman,  the  dancing  master,  and  his  tall  and 
handsome  son  Gary  ? 

Christmas,  New  Year's  Day,  the  Eighth  of  January, 
Twenty-Second  of  February  and  the  Fourth  of  July 
never  passed  without  a  big  ball,  and  no  town  was 
without  its  dancing  master,  as  well  as  preacher. 
No  store  was  considered  to  be  well  stocked  with 
goods  without  silk  stockings  and  dancing  pumps. 
"Old  times"  in  Covington  were  her  best  days. 

Of  the  early  settlers  of  Covington  but  few  are 
among  the  living  at  this  writing. 


150  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

DR.  CHARLES  G.  FISHER, 

among  the  earliest  settleri,  has  survived  all  of  his 
cotemporaries.  He  still  resides  in  the  place — re- 
siding in  the  same  house  that  he  huilt  more  than 
forty  years  ago.  He  was  a  practicing  physician  in 
my  father's  family  forty -five  years  ago.  His  long 
and  useful  life  v^ill  entitle  his  name  to  a  memorial 
window  in  every  household  in  and  around  Coving- 
ton as  one  of  the  fathers  of  the  land. 

Of  the  merchants  who  were  then  in  active  busi- 
ness life,  now  among  the  survivors  of  that  early 
period,  whose  eventful  career  comes  down  to  this 
present  writing,  none  is  deserving  more  of  honorable 
mention  than 

NATHAN  ADAMS. 

I  remember  well  his  first  appearance  in  Coving- 
ton. Young  and  handsome,  (he  was  so  regarded 
by  the  fair  young  women),  with  glossy  black  hair; 
intelligent,  bewitching  dark  eyes;  always  han(?somely 
dressed,  with  artistically  tied  cravat.  I  thought  him 
the  very  model  of  a  refined,  well-dressed  gentleman. 
"When  the  annals  and  history  of  West  Tennessee 
shall  be  written,  his  name  will  merit  a  high  place  in 
the  pages  of  her  progress,  in  both  city  and  country. 
Verging  to  a  ripe  old  age,  having  passed  his  three 
score  years,  he  yet  moves  with  the  elasticity  of  thirty 
years  ago.  A  man  of  progress,  an  able  financier, 
he  now  ranks  among  the  wealthy,  enterprising  men 
of  Memphis.  Possessing  a  refined  and  appreciative 
taste,  he  enjoys  life  in  the  circle  of  his  many  friends. 
Among  the  cotemporary  early  settlers  in  Tipton, 
now  living,  and  whose  name  has  been  identified 


in  West  Tennessee,  151 

with  the  local  interest  of  the  country  for  near  a  half 
century,  none  is  more  worthy  of  mention  than 

WILLIAM  COWARD,  ESQUIRE. 

"Starting  in  the  world  a  poor  boy,"  he  began  life  in 
Jackson,  Madison  county,  1824-5,  with  Amour  & 
Lake,  clerking  and  running  keel  boats  down  the 
Forked  Deer  and  Mississippi,  carrying  cotton  to 
New  Orleans,  they  trusting  to  his  integrity  to  bring 
back  the  proceeds.  In  1826  he  took  a  look  at 
Memphis,  when  it  was  a  village  at  the  mouth  of 
Wolf.  Aiming  to  be  a  tiller  of  the  soil,  the  rich 
lands  of  Tipton  attracted  him  to  where  he  settled  in 
the  woods  near  Covington.  He  still  lives  where  he 
first  settled,  and  in  the  house  he  first  built,  where, 
by  his  industry  and  probity,  he  has  amassed  a  large 
fortune.  Believing  in  the  old  adage,  '^  that  a  rolling 
stone  gathers  no  moss,"  he  has  never  sought  new 
places,  or  engaged  in  new  enterprises.  Wm. 
Coward  always  has  a  dollar  to  lend,  and  none  knows 
better  how  to  lend  it,  or  who  to  lend  it  to.  Ap- 
proaching three-score  and  ten  years,  he  is  yet  an 
active  business  man,  looking  after  and  turning  over  his 
honest  gains.  It  is  not  inappropriate  to  relate  an 
occurrence  that  happened  in  his  early  life,  illustra- 
tive of  his  care  and  vigil  over  what  belongs  to  him. 
He  went  to  New  Orleans,  with  the  first  crop  of  cot- 
ton he  made  in  Tipton,  bringing  back  the  proceeds 
in  hard  money  in  his  saddle-bags.  Arriving  at 
Randolph,  he  swung  the  saddle-bags  containing  this 
''hard  cash"  accross  his  shoulder  and  started  on  foot 
for  home,  twelve  or  fourteen  miles  distant.  Nisrht 
overtook  him  soon  after  leaving  the  settlement  near 


152  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

Randolph,  having  many  miles  of  wilderness  to  pass 
through.  When  passing  through  the  most  unfre- 
quented portion  of  it,  he  was  attacked  by  a  hungry 
pack  of  wolves.  Several  miles  distant  from  any 
house  or  settlement,  with  nothing  to  defend  him- 
self but  his  hickory  walking-stick,  he  was  forced  to 
take  refuge  in  the  nearest  tree.  Luckily,  a  small 
bending  oak  was  at  hand,  and  up  it  he  went,  to 
where  a  large  limb  grew  straight  up.  Finding  the 
weight  of  his  saddle-bags  too  great  to  climb  the 
limb  with  it  on  his  shoulder,  he  swung  it  on  the  first 
limb  and  pulled  himself  above  it.  The  hungry  wolves? 
in  their  furious  attack,  would  run  up  on  the  bend- 
ing portion  of  the  tree.  Finding  they  could  not  reach 
him,  they  commenced  snapping  at  the  bag  of  hard 
cash.  To  keep  the  hungry  beasts  from  rending  the 
saddle-bags  and  spilling  out  all  the  money.  Coward 
w^ould  swing  himself  down,  holding  on  with  one 
hand  while  laraping  them  over  the  head  with  his 
hickory  stick.  Thus  he  was  kept  up  the  tree  de- 
fending and  keeping  the  wolves  off  of  his  saddle- 
bags until  relieved  by  daylight,  when  the  hungry 
wolves  left  for  their  dark  holes. 

The  Calmes  tavern  had  no  sign  indicating  that  it 
was  a  place  of  entertainment  for  travelers,  other 
than  a  horse-rack  in  front  for  them  to  hitch  their 
horses.  An  expert  sign-painter  came  along,  and 
pursuaded  my  father  to  have  a  fine  sign  painted  and 
swung  up.  The  suggestion  met  with  favor,  and  the 
sign-painter  went  to  work  upon  a  four  by  four 
square  board.  At  my  mother's  suggestion,  the  name 
"  tavern  "  was  dropped,  and  "  hotel "  adopted.    *'  Gov- 


in  West  Tennessee.  153 

ington "  was  painted  in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  in 
large  letters,  a  star  in  tlie  middle,  and  ''hotel"  be- 
low, gilded  with  gold;  the  ground  was  blue,  be- 
spangled with  brilliants.  The  sign,  swung  high  up 
in  a  frame  upon  a  large  post  painted  white,  was  a 
credit  to  the  painter,  recommending  him  favorably 
to  the  town.  For  several  days  it  was  the  attractive 
point  for  the  boys.  Covington  had  a  hotel !  A  bell 
was  then  added  to  the  hotel,  put  up  in  a  neat  belfry 
on  top  of  the  building;  which  was  another  attractive 
point  with  the  boys.  Covington  could  boast  of  its 
rolicsome,  frolicsome  boys,  as  well  as  other  towns. 
Hardly  a  week  passed  without  recording  some  of 
their  innocent  deviltry,  such  as  changing  sign 
boards,  etc.  Holmes  &  Adams  would  walk  into 
their  store  of  a  morning  under  Booker  &  Clarkson's 
sign ;  it  was  onl}^  the  trouble  of  changing  them  back 
again.  One  morning  all  the  milkmaids  were  run- 
ning over  town  inquiring  if  any  one  had  seen  such 
and  such  a  calf.  One  "with  red  sides  and  white 
back  and  belly;"  another  "with  spots  all  over  it, 
and  white  in  the  face."  The  cows  filled  the  streets 
lowing  their  utmost.  The  town  was  about  to  go  to 
breakfast  without  milk  in  its  coffee,  when,  from 
the  lowing  of  the  cows,  a  calf  was  heard  to  bleat  in 
the  court-house.  In  the  meantime,  the  inquiries  as 
to  the  missing  calves  becoming  general,  the  town 
folk  began  to  gather  on  the  public  square.  The 
cows,  hearing  the  bleating  of  the  calf  in  the  court- 
house, gathered  around  it,  and  the  calves  set  up  a 
unanimous  bleating  in  the  court  room.  The  milk 
women  and  the  boys  (who  didn't  know  anything 


154  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

about  it)  opened  the  court-house  door,  and  the  calves 
came  jumping  out,  kicking  up  their  heels  and  pairing 
off  with  their  mothers,  l^ot  so,  however,  with  an 
old  hilly  goat,  that  remained  in  the  court  room 
thumping  on  the  Judge's  stand.  He  was  tied  hard 
and  fast  in  the  chair  occupied  by  his  Honor  in  pre- 
siding. The  town  gathered  to  see  his  Honor  on  the 
bench — presiding  in  horns!  The  boys  enjoyed  the 
result  of  their  pranks,  innocent  of  any  knowledge 
as  to  how  came  the  calves,  and  honest  Billy  White's 
old  billy,  in  the  court-room.  It  all  passed  off  as  a 
joke,  intended  for  the  ears  of  the  Judge  of  the 
"  Court  of  Pleas  and  Quarter  Sessions,"  who  was  in 
the  habit,  when  on  the  bench,  of  getting  dry,  and 
calling  on  the  Sheriff: 

"Mr.  Sheriff,  adjourn  court,  and  let's  all  go  and 
take  a  horn  J' 

Many  amusing  incidents  and  anecdotes  were  told 
of  old  Holtshouser's  court.  He  was  firmly  impressed 
with  the  idea  that  his  court  could  not  err;  he  re- 
garded himself  as  the  arbiter  dictum  of  the  court  and 
the  law,  as  was  illustrated  in  the  case  of  old  Johnny 
Giddins.  The  old  man  had  absented  himself  from 
home  for  some  cause  known  only  to  himself.  He 
had  gone  in  the  direction  of  Arkansas,  fatal  ground 
to  travel  over  in  those  days.  His  long  absence  had 
confirmed  his  family  and  friends  in  the  belief  tliat 
he  had  "gone  to  that  bourne  from  whence  no  traveler 
returns."  Application  was  made  to  Holtshouser's 
court  to  declare  his  estate  vacant,  and  for  an  admin- 
istrator to  be  appointed.  The  requisite  proof  of  liis 
demise  was  made,  and  the  administraton  of  his  es- 


171  West  Tennessee.  165 

tate  regularly  opened.  The  usual  time  allowed  for 
winding  up  and  closing  the  administration  elapsed, 
and  the  estate  was  distributed  among  the  heirs  and 
legatees.  In  the  course  of  a  short  time  old  man  Gid- 
dins  turned  up  alive,  and  appeared  before  Holts- 
houser's  court  persona  personam,  demanding  that  his 
estate  be  restored  to  him.  Holtshouser  heard  him 
through,  and  then  replied : 

"  Sir,  your  case  seems  a  hard  one,  but  it  can't  be 
helped  now.  This  court  has  declared  that  you  are 
extincius  defiinctus — dead  I  It  is  the  decision  of  this 
court  now.  This  court  can't  err.  Mr.  Sheriff,  ad- 
journ court,  and  let's  all  go  and  take  a  horn." 

My  father  was  very  little  suited  for  a  tavern- 
keeper.  Conscious  of  his  personal  rights,  and  stern 
in  maintaining  them,  he  exercised  little  patience  in 
the  short-coming  of  others.  He  worried  under  a 
practical  joke.  A  rigid  old-side  Presbyterian,  he  be- 
lieved in  training  up  the  young  "  in  the  way  they 
should  go."  He  put  his  foot  down  upon  the  night 
amusement  of  the  "boys  about  town."  It  but 
sharpened  their  appetites  for  a  little  fun  at  his  ex- 
pense. The  new  bell,  put  up  in  the  belfry,  was  in- 
viting for  a  little  innocent  amusement.  They  began 
their  fun,  to  his  great  annoyance,  by  ringing  the 
bell  in  the  dead  hour  of  night.  The  bell  was  never 
rung  at  night,  except  a  few  taps  for  the  hostler,  or 
in  the  event  of  fire.  Every  few  nights  the  bell 
w^ould  ring.  It  annoyed  him  so  that  he  vowed  that 
the  next  night  it  rang  he  would  find  out,  by  some 
strategy  or  other,  who  did  it,  and  pepper  the  fellow 
well  with  duck  shot.     The  boys  were  delighted  that 


156  Reviiniscences  of  Old  Times 

the  "  old  'Squire,"  as  they  called  him,  was  annoyed; 
it  was  what  they  played  for.  They  went  to  work, 
upon  a  strategy  of  their  own,  to  increase  the  volume 
of  their  fun,  and  increase  if  possible,  the  "  'Squire's" 
annoyance.  One  night  (the  moon  was  shining 
brightly),  the  bell  commenced  ringing;  my  father 
got  up  and  dressed  himself,  and  put  fresh  priming 
in  his  gun,  charged  with  a  load  of  small  shot.  My 
mother  endeavored  to  dissuade  him  from  going  out; 
that  it  was  better  to  let  the  boys  alone ;  that  they 
would  stop  ringing  the  bell  when  they  found  that  it 
did  not  vex  him.  He  was  resolved,  however,  to  put 
a  stop  to  it;  then  calling  up  the  hostler,  he  threw 
his  cloak  around  him,  and  went  for  the  bell-ringers, 
sending  the  hostler  up  on  the  building  to  find  out 
by  the  string  the  boys  had  tied  to  the  bell,  the  di- 
rection they  were  concealed.  The  bell  continued  to 
ring  furiously,  as  if  the  town  was  on  fire.  The 
hostler  reaching  the  top  of  the  building,  discovered 
the  fellow  that  was  ringing,  he  sliped  ofi:'  of  the  roof 
and  down  to  the  ground  as  quick  as  he  could,  say- 
ing: 

'''Mastery  master!  I  found  him,  he's  straddle 
the  new  sign  aringing  all  his  might !  come  quick,  he 
couldn't  help  seeing  me  when  I  was  on  top  of  the 
house;  come  quick,  before  he  gets  away." 

My  father  moved  round  in  front,  and  there  the 
fellow  was,  sitting  straddle  of  the  sign,  pulling  at  the 
string  with  increased  jerks,  the  bell  ringing  louder 
than  ever. 

"Come  down  from  there,  you  miscreant!  Come 
down,  or  I  will  pepper  you  good,"  he  said. 


in  West  Tennessee.  157 

The  fellow's  arm  continued  to  jerk  the  string,  and 
the  hell  kept  ringing. 

"Stop  ringing  that  bell — and  come  down  from 
there,  or  I  will  fill  you.  full  of  shot.  Won't  you 
stop  ringing  that  bell  and  come  down  ?" 

The  fellow  straddle  the  sign  continued  to  jerk  the 
string  as  though  he  would  drive  the  clapper  through 
the  rim  of  the  bell.  In  the  meantime  the  town 
people  had  began  to  gather  on  the  public  square,  the 
man  on  the  sign  continuing  to  ring  furiouslj^  My 
father  could  stand  it  no  longer.  He  had  given  the 
fellow  fair  warning,  and  he  still  continued  his 
aggravating  jerks  at  the  bell.  He  raised  his  gun,  in 
the  act  of  shooting.  Tom  Taylor,  the  lawyer,  put  his 
head  out  from  a  window  above  and  hallooed  out, 
"Don't  shoot,  don't  shoot,  'Squire,  it  will  be  mur- 
der— bring  a  ladder." 

It  was  too  late — bang  went  the  gun. 

"Let  it  be  murder,"  he  said,  as  he  brought  the 
gun  down  from  his  face.  The  fellow  didn't  flinch, 
but  continued  jerking  away  at  the  bell-string,  the 
bell  peeling  away  in  the  clear,  still  moonlight.  My 
father  became  excitingly  mad,  and  vowed  that  he 
would  load  up  with  buck-shot  and  bring  him  down. 
Just  then  the  ladder  was  brought.  The  hostler  was 
ordered  to  go  up  and  fetch  him  down. 

"Bring  him  down,"  said  my  father,  "dead  or 
alive." 

"He  ain't  dead,  sir,  see  him  ringing  as  hard  as  he 
can,"  said  the  hostler,  as  he  went  up  the  ladder. 
Reaching  near  enough  to  r^et  hold  of  his  leg,  he  gave 


158  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

it  a  tremendous  jerk,  bringing  it  away  from  his 
body,  and  let  it  drop,  saying : 

"  There's  his  leg,  master^  you  shot  it  off;  he's  don 
stop  ringing  now." 

A  good  many  of  the  town  people  had  gathered 
around  after  the  firing  of  the  gun.  When  the  leg 
dropped  to  the  ground,  with  the  hostler's  remark, 
"  You  have  shot  his  leg  off,  master,"  a  rush  was 
made  to  see  it.  It  was  neither  flesh,  bone,  nor 
blood.  The  joke  had  exploded.  The  bell-ringer 
was  brought  down — a  well-shaped  man  of  straw, 
minus  a  leg.  The  "sell"  was  complete.  Many  of 
the  town  people  felt  that  they  were  equally  "  sold" 
with  my  father,  who,  after  the  excitement  passed  off, 
enjoyed  the  joke  in  his  dry  way.  The  boys  were 
satisfied,  but  nobody  knew  who  did  it.  The  ex- 
planation but  increased-  the  interest  of  the  "  sell." 
It  was  well-planed,  as  the  boys  about  Covington 
knew  how.  The  strategy  was  a  success.  The  new 
sign  stood  in  a  line  with  the  belfry,  and  the  old 
court-house,  which  stood  in  the  public  square,  and 
was  two  stories  high.  The  man  of  straw  represented 
a  well-shaped  man,  dressed,  capped  and  booted.  Sev- 
eral strong  fishing  lines  tied  together,  one  end  tied 
to  the  bell-clajDper,  and  the  line  stretched  across  to 
the  upper  window  of  the  court-house,  the  hand  of 
the  man  of  straw  fastened  to  it,  gave  the  operator 
inside  of  the  court-house  perfect  control.  Whenever 
he  would  pull  the  line,  it  gave  the  appearance  of 
having  been  done  by  the  man  astraddle  of  the  sign. 
It  being  a  bright  moonlight  night,  the  operator 
could  see   through  the  window  what  was  going  on 


in  West  Tennessee.  159 

around  the  signpost,  so  when  the  hostler  got  hold  of 
the  man  of  straw  the  joke  exploded,  and  the  ope- 
rator left  his  place  of  concealment. 

A  tavern  or  kotel  was  more  particularly  a  public 
place  than  now.  The  public  felt  that  it  had  a  right 
to  say  and  do  pretty  much  as  it  pleased,  so  the  bills 
were  paid.  Swearing,  the  taking  of  the  Lord's 
name  in  vain,  was  common  then  as  now.  ITothing 
annoyed  my  father  more.  Vulgar  and  profane 
language  he  abominated;  profanity  at  his  table  was 
beyond  his  endurance.  Passing  through  the  dining- 
room  one  day  (it  was  during  court  week)  his  atten- 
tion was  arrested  by  '^dam  that  mule!  dam  that 
mule!  what  a  h — 1-fired  wicked  beast  he  must  have 
been!"  Just  then  my  father  reached  the  chair  of  the 
individual  using  the  profane  language.  It  proved 
to  be  his  old  friend  Major  Richmond,  from  Browns- 
ville, who  was  attending  court.  The  humorous 
Major  had  dropped  his  knife  and  fork,  had  his  gaze 
fixed  in  the  face  of  another  guest  who  had  taken 
his  seat  at  the  table  opposite  him,  when  my  father, 
laying  his  hand  on  the  Major's  shoulder,  inquired 
the  cause  of  such  language.  The  Major  sprang  to 
his  feet  upon  the  instant,  without  taking  his  fixed 
gaze  from  the  face  of  the  man  before  him,  ex- 
claimed: 

"  I  icas  only  contemning  the  da — ,  tlte  iiifernal^  con- 
founded, everlastinghj-wicked  beast — the  son  or  daughter 
of  a  jackass,  f  01-  spoiling  the  beauty  of  that  gentleman's 
face,'''  pointing  at  the  man  across  the  table. 

"Tot,  tot,  tot,"  says  my  father,*'  Major, that  is  one 
of  uur  most  excellent  and  worth}^  citizens — his  face 


160  Reminiscences  of  Old  limes 

becomes  him  much.  Mr.  Shaakle,  allow  me  to  in- 
troduce to  you  my  old  friend  Major  Richmond!" 

Shankle  accepted  the  introduction,  and  he  and 
the  humorous  Major  joined  hands  a^jross  the  table, 
the  Major  humorously  apologizing  for  his  mistake. 
The  reader  must  know,  as  %11  who  knew  him  will 
attest,  that  if  an  "  ugly  club "  had  been  formed  in 
Tipton,  our  friend  George  Shankle  would  have  been 
unanimously  chosen  its  first  president. 

Major  Richmond  and  George  Shankle  became 
firm  friends  after  that.  Shankle  used  his  influence 
in  getting  the  Major  employed  in  all  the  "  road  cases," 
which,  in  those  days,  encumbered  the  docket  on 
*'  State  days."  An  old  time  and  highly  esteemed 
first  settler  was 

MAJOR    JAMES    SWEENEY, 

a  neighbor  of  George  Shankles.  The  Major  kept  a 
house  of  entertainment  on  the  road  from  Covington 
to  Randolph.  Always  in  a  good  humor,  he  delighted 
to  have  his  friends  stop  with  him ;  fond  of  good  eat- 
ing himself,  none  knew  better  how  to  gratify  the 
need  and  appetite  of  his  guest.  Few  men  were 
better  or  more  favorably  known  in  the  county.  He 
was  noted  for  his  excessive  laughter,  his  risables 
ever  in  tention;  often  when  alone  he  was  know^n 
to  break  out  in  a  horse  laugh  at  some  humorous 
thought  of  his  own.  In  asking  or  answering  ques- 
tions, his  habit  was  to  use  language  in  the  relative. 
His  manner  and  language  in  the  use  of  words  was 
peculiarly  his  own,  rarily  ever  failing  to  produce 
merriment  and  laughter.  For  instance,  he  would 
walk  into  a  store  when  wishing  to  purchase  a  pair 


in  West  Teimessee.  161 

of  children's  shoes,  he  would  inquire  of  the  clerk 
or  store-keeper  if  they  had  anything  relative  to  little 
children's  running  about  out  of  doors.  Knowing 
well  his  manner  of  expressing  his  wants,  the  store- 
keeper would,  without  further  question,  hand  out 
the  article  called  for.  A  party  of  the  Major's  friends 
was  passing  his  house  one  day  in  the  month  of  I^o- 
vember;  the  Major  was  hard  at  work  in  his  garden 
digging  away  with  a  hoe.  The  party  halting  at  the 
fence  on  the  roadside,  hallooed  to  the  Major  in- 
quiring what  he  was  driving  at.  He  rose  up  from 
his  laboring  posture,  with  one  of  his  side-shaking 
laughs,  saying: 

"I  was  just  getting  the  rust  off  this  grubbing- 
hoe,  by  way  of  preparing  a  bed  relative  to  straw- 
berries and  cream  next  spring."  Major  James 
Sweeny  is  kindly  remembered  by  the  people  of  Tip- 
ton for  his  hospitality  and  many  kind  acts. 

Covington  was  a  thriving  new  town ;  stores  and 
business  multiplying,  particularly  the  tippling  shops. 
People  drank  then,  as  now,  except  they  then  took  it 
at  intervals,  but  now  they  take  it  as  a  regular,  con- 
stant drink.  Liquor  seemed  to  have  more  efiect 
upon  the  people  then  than  now;  it  may  be  that  it 
was  stronger,  or  possibly  their  not  taking  it  regu- 
larly, as  is  done  now,  had  something  to  do  with  it. 
The  best  men  then,  as  they  do  now,  "imbibed,"  or, 
in  the  language  of  the  "  Court  of  Pleas  and  Quarter 
Sessions,"  they  all  took  a  "  horn."  When  court  was 
in  session,  and  on  public  days,  the  country  emptied 
itself  of  the  mail  population  into  town,  and  none 
blushed  to  take  a  drink,  who  felt  like  it.     Liquor  in 


16*2  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

those  (lays  seemed  to  make  people  more  belligerent 
than  now;  it  may  have  been  that  they  feared  less  to 
fight,  because  of  the  absence  of  the  revolver  in  every- 
body's pocket,  as  is  not  the  case  in  the  present  age. 
Certain  it  is,  that  never  a  public  day  passed  off  in 
Covington  without  sundry  fights;  without  some- 
body's nose  smashed,  eyes  gouged,  or  heads  bruised. 
Liquor  was  said  to  be  the  cause  of  it  all.  •  It  was 
very  seldom  that  any  one  was  fatally  hurt.  The 
first  killing  I  remember  to  have  occurred  in  Coving- 
ton under  the  head  of  murder,  was  by  old  Tackett. 
We  all  remember  old  Tackett;  he  had  killed  his 
man  in  North  Carolina,  and  escaped  the  gallows  by 
fleeing  to  Tennessee.  He  put  a  load  of  squirrel- 
shot  in  Deputy  Sheriff  Mitchell's  breast.  Mitchell 
lived  several  days  after  he  was  shot.  Upon  a  post- 
mortem, examination  being  had,  it  was  found  that 
five  or  more  shot  had  penetrated  his  heart.  Tackett 
was  tried  for  the  murder,  and  found  guilty  of  mur- 
der in  the  first  degree;  his  lawyers  obtained  a  new 
trial  for  him.  Upon  his  second  trial  he  was  found 
guilty  of  manslaughter,  and  sentenced  to  be  branded 
in  the  palm  of  the  left  hand  with  the  letters  "  M.  S.," 
which  was  done. 

Another  murder  case  occurred  not  long  after 
yet  remembered  by  the  old  citizens  for  the  nov- 
elty of  the  mode  of  arriving  at  a  verdict.  A  man  by 
the  name  of  Gray  was  accused  and  indicted  for 
killing  his  wife.  Few  cases  excited  more  interest 
than  Gray's  case;  he  was  defended  by  the  best 
talent  the  bar  afforded,  and  the  case  occupied  sev- 
ei'al  days;  the  jury  received  the  judge's  charge  late 


in  West  Tennessee.  163 

at  night,  being  well  nigh  tired  out  from  their  pro- 
tracted sitting  during  the  trial.  Returning  to  the 
jury  room  it  was  soon  fmind  that  six  were  for  hang- 
ins^  and  six  for  clearins;  the  criminal.  Findinc^  that 
they  could  not  agree  upon  a  verdict,  they  sent  the 
balitf  over  to  the  judge's  room  to  say  that  they  were 
hung — that  it  was  not  possible  for  them  to  agree 
upon  a  verdict.  The  judge  told  the  balitf  to  go 
back  and  inform  the  jury  that  if  the}-  did  not  agree 
upon  a  verdict  they  might  remain  'hung'  to  the  end 
of  the  term.  The  baliif  reported  back  the  pleasure 
of  the  Judge.  They  went  to  work  again  to  find  a 
verdict,  but  couldn't;  they  seemed  more  firmly 
'hung.'  To  remain  hung  for  the  balance  of  the 
term  was  trying  to  their  worn-out  patience.  When 
it  was  proposed  as  the  shortest  and  the  only  way 
they  could  'agree,'  that  the  best  'old  sledge'  player 
be  selected  from  each  side  of  the  verdict,  and  a 
game  of  six-card  seven  up  decide.  To  this  propo- 
sition they  'agreed;'  a  member  from  each  side  was 
chosen,  a  deck  of  cards  brought,  and  the  game  be- 
gan. Gray's  life  was  staked  upon  the  turning  of 
a  card.  The  game  was  close,  six  and  six,  when  the 
juror  from  the  clearing  side  turned  jack.  They  found 
a  verdict  posthaste,  and  the  baUff  was  sent  tobring  the 
Judge  over.  The  Judge  was  prompt  in  getting  on 
the  bench,  and  ordered  the  Sheriff  to  bring  in  the 
jury.  They  were  standing  at  the  door  of  the  jury 
room  waiting.  The  Clerk  called  over  their  names 
and  asked: 

"Gentlemen,  have  you  agreed  upon  a  verdict?'* 
The  paper  was  handed  up  and  read : 


164  Reminkcences  of  Old  Times 

"We,  the  jury,  find  the  defendant  not  guilty." 
The  writer  is  informed  that  the  juror  who  "  turned 
up  jack"  is  yet  ahve  to  attest  the  truth  of  history. 

An  aggravated  stabhing  under  the  law  occurred 
not  long  after  the  Tackett  killing,  at  the  "movers' 
camping  ground"  near  town,  on  the  Brownsville 
road.  Rufus  Garland,  a  most  excellent  good  citi- 
zen, of  good  family  and  high  respectability,  lived 
some  four  miles  northeast  of  Covington.  Rufus 
would  get  into  a  spree  once  in  awhile,  and  when  in 
a  "spree"  he  was  permitted  by  all  who  knew  him 
"to  have  his  own  way."  His  friends,  and  he  had 
many,  would  facilitate  his  vein  for  humor  and  fun, 
rather  than  oppose  him.  To  say  Rufe,  "you  must 
not  do  this,  or  that,''  or  take  hold  of  his  horse's 
bridle  when  he  should  want  to  ride  him  in  the 
galleries,  or  through  the  house,  was  like  putting 
your  foot  upon  and  adder's  head.  Quick  as  an  ar- 
row from  its  bow,  he  would  strike:  it  made  no  dif- 
ference who.  He  played  sweetl}^  upon  the  fiddle. 
When  in  one  of  his  sprees  the  fiddle  was  his  boby. 
He  would  mount  his  horse,  with  fiddle  and  bow  in 
hand,  and  ride,  as  on  a  race,  all  around  the  square 
playing.  His  horse  was  trained  to  suit  his  frolics, 
and  seemed  uqually  fond  of  it  with  his  master. 
Going  up  flights  of  steps  and  leaping  out  again  was 
one  of  his  favorite  amusements.  But  Rufe's  sprees 
finally  got  him  into  trouble.  Starting  home  one 
night,  (he  never  left  town,  when  in  a  spree,  until 
after  dark),  several  of  his  friends  and  neighbors 
with  him;  passing  the  movers'  camp  fires  he  reigned 
up  his  horse  and  vawed  he  would  make  him  leap 


in  West  Tennessee.  165 

the  long  log  fire  that  was  burning  brightly.  Head- 
ing him  to  it  he  put  spurs;  before  reaching  the  fire 
a  stout  young  man  rose  to  his  feet  and  seized  the 
bridle  and  checked  up  the  horse,  with  an  angry 
oath,  ^Tll  be  damned  if  you  do."  Garland  was  off 
of  his  horse  before  his  friends  could  get  to  him, 
perforating  the  young  man  all  over  his  chest  with 
his  little  four  and  a  half  inch  dirk.  Garland  was  a 
small,  very  small  man,  quick  as  lightning  and 
active  as  a  cat.  The  effect  of  liquor  upon  him 
only  set  his  brain  on  fire.  He  had  stabbed  the 
young  man  in  a  dozen  or  more  places,  many  of  them 
fatally  aimed.  Doctors  were  sent  for  and  they  pro- 
nounced him  mortally  wounded.  Garland  got  on 
his  horse  and  rode  home,  saying  that  he  would 
come  to  town  next  morning.  The  young  man  was 
quartered  in  a  house  near  by,  and  properly  attended 
and  nursed ;  his  life  vvas  dispaired  of  from  day  to 
day  for  many  weeks.  In  the  meantime  Garland  went 
to  jail.  It  was  not  deemed  a  bailable  case  in  the  event 
of  the  death  of  the  young  man,  and  he  was  kept  in 
jail  for  several  weeks.  The  jailer  was  a  good,  jolly 
fellow,  and  having  perfect  confidence  in  Garland's  in- 
tegrity, he  gave  him  the  freedom  of  the  limits  of 
the  building.  The  jail  had  just  been  finished ;  large 
and  new.  The  jailer  with  his  family  lived  in  it.  He 
was  a  tinner  by  trade,  and  had  his  shop  in  one  of  the 
rooms  of  the  jail.  Garland  had  him  to  make  a  tin 
fiddle,  which  he  strung  up  and  amused  himself  with 
making  tinny  music.  The  people  from  the  coun- 
try, as  well  as  town,  flocked  to  the  jail  to  see  the  tin 
fiddle  and  hear  Rufus  play  on  it.     The  reader  can 


166  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

well  imagine  the  character  of  sound  that  would  come 
from  a  tin  fiddle.  It  was  artistically  made  in  all  its  parts, 
with  sound-post,  and  well  strung.  With  the  magic 
bow  in  Rufus'  hand  it  in  very  truth  gave  out  sweet 
strains  of  tinny  music.  Those  who  were  boys  then 
can  certainly  never  forget  E-ufus  G-arland's  tin  fid- 
dle. 

The  young  man  finally  got  well;  Garland  was 
bailed  out,  and  what  the  verdict  of  the  jury  was  in 
the  case  is  not  within  the  recollection  of  the  writer, 
there  being  no  malice  in  the  case,  and  Garland 
being  a  worthy  good  citizen  of  property  and  stand- 
ing, it  fell  among  the  ordinary  cases  of  assault  and 
battery. 

,THE    HIGH   AND    WELL-MERITED    CHARACTEE    OF    THE 
LATE    GRANDVILLE    D.    SEARCY 

is  deserving  more  than  a  brief  sketch,  and  a  far 
better  historic  pen  than  mine.  A  long  and  strong 
personal  attachment  which  existed  between  the 
writer  and  the  subject  of  this  brief  notice,  beginning 
when  he  entered  upon  his  career  in  Covington,  run- 
ning through  a  quarter  of  a  century,  renders  the 
duty,  however,  a  pleasing  one.  His  high  and  well- 
merited  character  as  a  man  and  a  lawyer  ranked 
him  pre-emintly  among  the  men  of  mark  in  West 
Tennessee.  In  manners,  easy  and  graceful,  soul 
full  of  warm,  generous  impulses.  His  personel  was 
attractive  and  captivating  upon  sight.  His  coun- 
tenance, unvarying  in  its  reflex  of  kind  and  gener- 
ous sentiment,  was  the  admiration  of  every  person; 
unclouded  intelligence  scintilated  from  every  fetv- 


in  West  Tennessee.  167 

tiire.  A  mind  comprehensive  with  purity  of 
thought,  intuitively  correct,  fertile  in  expedient  and 
imaginery,  few  were  better  fitted  for  the  profession 
of  the  law.  Clearness  and  simplicity  marked  his  for- 
ensic efforts  before  both  court  and  jury.  When 
most  vehement,  and,  not  unfrequently,  when  the 
occasion  was  great,  his  full,  clear,  ringing  voice  rose 
to  the  chmax  of  eloquence  itself.  As  a  lawyer  or 
advocate,  he  avoided  the  arts  and  crooked  mays 
known  as  ''sharp  practice,"  ever  maintaining  the 
dignity  and  purity  of  the  profession.  He  was  fitted 
for  every  station  at  the  bar,  and  no  lawyer  w^as 
more  successful  in  his  cases.  Before  a  jury,  his 
manner  was  earnest  and  most  impressive,  never  tr}^- 
ing  their  patience;  seizing  upon  the  strong  points  in 
the  case,  he  held  their  minds  enchanted,  until,  as  by 
intuition,  he  read  in  their  faces  a  verdict.  As  a 
criminal  lawyer  he  had  no  superior — he  was  the  lion 
at  the  bar  on  "  State  days." 

An  incident  occurred  in  one  of  his  efforts  before 
the  jury  at  Covington  court,  illustrative  of  his  great 
self-possession  and  capacity  of  turning  to  his  advan- 
tage an  incident  calculated  to  break  a  link  in  the 
argument  or  confuse  the  case.  It  was  a  case  in 
which  the  character  of  his  client  was  attempted  to 
be  aspersed  by  the  breath  of  slander;  the  argument 
against  him  had  been  strong  and  ingenious.  At  the 
moment  when  Colonel  Searcy  had  reached  the  acme 
of  his  best  forensic  effort;  when  his  genial  face  was 
beaming  with  expressions  irresistible  ;  his  rich,  full 
voice  thrilling  in  interest  and  delight  to  the  intelli- 
gent peers  of  the  laud,  by  an  excited  justiculation 


168  Beminiscences  of  Old  Times  • 

the  stove  behind  him  was  jostled,  and  down  fell  the 
long  stove  pipe  upon  the  tioor,  between  the  speaker 
and  the  jury  box,  separating  at  every  joint  and  fill- 
ing the  court  room  and  jurors  full  of  dust  and  soot. 
Simultaneously  with  the  rising  of  the  dust  and  soot 
a  gust  of  wind  came  through  the  windows  (it  was  a 
blustering  March  day)  dissipating  the  dust  and  soot, 
greatly  to  the  relief  of  the  jury.  The  incident, 
instead  of  interrupting  or  clowding  the  brilliant  and 
glowing  eloquence  of  the  speaker,  it  rose  higher  and 
brighter.  Seizing  upon  the  mishap  as  opportune,  and 
tipical  of  the  downfall  and  breaking  assunder  of  the 
ingenious  argument  of  his  adversary,  he  pointed  to 
the  stove  pipe  on  the  floor  which  had  fallen  apart; 
from  which  came  the  dust  and  soot  like  the  foul 
breath  of  slander,  with  which  it  was  attempted  to 
blacken  and  asperse  the  character  and  fair  name  of 
his  client,  and  which  was  dispelled  and  dissipated 
by  the  refreshing  breeze;  wafted  away  by  the  pure 
breath  of  heaven.  His  manner  was  majestic,  and 
his  eloquence  burning  and  electric— it  gave  him  the 
verdict.  It  is  mentioned  that  the  jury,  in  recurring 
to  the  case  and  the  incident  many  years  after,  spoke 
of  it  as  their  "  stove-pipe  verdict^^ 

With  no  other  source  of  income  but  that  arising 
from  his  large  and  lucrative  practice  to  support  a 
large  fiimily,  he  was  kept  from  engaging  in  other 
fields  of  intellectual  combat,  save  on  incidental  oc- 
cassions.  Possessing  in  a  high  degree  the  mind 
and  attributes,  happily  fitting  him  for  the  states- 
man, his  name  was  often  mentioned  in  connection 
with  the  United  States  Senate.     He  had  made  a 


in  West  Tennessee.  169 

distinguishing  mark  as  a  political  debator.  In  ac- 
cord with  the  great  statesmen  Clay  and  Webster  in 
political  sentiment,  the  complexion  of  the  rule  in 
popular  politics  was  adverse  to  him.  Colonel  Searcy 
was  a  native  of  Tennessee,  his  father  was  for  many 
years  Clerk  of  the  Federal  Court  at  Kashville,  where 
he  read  law.  Admitted  to  the  bar  in  early  life,  he 
began  his  career  in  the  practice  at  Covington  upon 
the  organizing  of  tlie  first  courts  of  that  county. 
He  removed  to  Somerville  in  1840,  and  soon  after- 
w^ard  fixed  his  residence  in  Memphis,  where  he  died 
in  1854,  in  the  fullness  of  his  well-merited  honors, 
and  in  the  vigor  of  his  usefulness.  As  a  friend  and 
companion,  his  geniality  of  soul  and  temper  linked 
him  to  his  fellow-man  as  with  "  hooks  of  steel." 

THE    FOURTir    OF    JULY    AT    COVINGTON,    AND    COLONEL 
CROCKETT. 

Colonel  Crockett  felt  that  his  valuable  services 
in  the  Twentieth  Congress  in  behalf  of  his  imme- 
diate constituents  and  tlie  republic  at  large,  entitled 
him  to  a  re-election.  His  advent  in  the  Congress 
of  the  United  States  had  given  rise  to  many  in- 
teresting anecdotes,  and  amusing  incidents  and 
caricatures.  The  representative  of  the  Big  Hatchie 
District  had  lost  nothing  of  his  popularity;  on  the 
contrary  it  had  rather  increased  by  the  aid  of  "Jack 
Downing"  and  other  wits  and  humorous  writers  of 
the  period.  The  Colonel  entered  the  canvass  of 
1829,  with  a  bold  and  confident  front.  He  had 
worked  in  the  anti- ad  ministration  party,  afterwards 
called  the  Jackson  party.  He  was  anti-tarriff  in 
favor  of  economic  reform,  and  letting  the  actual  set- 
8 


170  Remmisccnces  of  Old  Times 

tier  have  his  land  at  a  "  bit  an  acre."  The  Colonel 
was  not  permitted,  however,  to  run  through  the 
canvass  alone ;  opponents  came  out  thick  and  strong; 
the  field  was  a  large  one,  embracing  all  of  thirteen 
counties — Madison,  Haywood,  Henderson,  Mc^ary, 
Hardeman,  Fayette,  Shelby,  Tipton,  Gibson,  Car- 
roll, Weakly,  Henry  and  Perry.  Colonel  Adam  R. 
Alexander,  of  Shelby,  felt  that  his  merit  and  capacity 
was  equal  to  the  duties  devolving  upon  a  Con- 
gressman. Captain  Joel  Estes,  a  worthy  and  highly 
respectable  citizen,  north  of  Big  Hatchie  in  Hay- 
wood, was  a  candidate.  The  Captain  was  among 
the  earliest  emigrant  settlers  in  the  Big  Hatchie 
country,  a  native  of  "the  Mother  of  Presidents"  in 
old  times,  and,  withall,  a  gentleman  of  more  than 
ordinary  ability.  He  sought  to  reach  the  hearts  and 
minds  of  the  voters  of  the  district  by  addressing 
them  through  a  lengthy  circular,  instead  of  taking 
the  field  and  stump.  James  H.  Clarke,  of  Tipton, 
a  merchant  and  rising  man  of  Covington,  who  had 
worked  himself  up  from  a  peddler's  wagon  to  a  brick 
store,  enterprising  and  ambitious,  his  mind  was 
turned  in  the  direction  of  Washington,  and  he  be- 
came a  candidate  against  Colonel  Crockett.  Poli- 
tics began  to  run  high,  an  the  mileage  was  no  incon- 
siderable object. 

On  the  Fourth  of  July  of  that  year  Colonel 
Crockett  and  several  of  his  opponents  met  at  Cov- 
ington. The  "glorious  Fourth"  was  a  big  day  in  ^old 
times,'  without  being  made  more  glorious  by  the 
presence  of  such  distinguished  personages.  It  was 
the  spread-eagle  day  in  the  land,  and  everybody  and 


in  Wist  Tennessee.  171 

liis  neighbor  was  there,  and  for  a  wonder  it  neither 
thundered  or  rained. 

Before  noontide^  the  curling  bhie  smoke  through 
the  dark  green  fohage  of  the  tall  elm,  and  the  still 
taller  oak,  was  seen  ascending  from  the  long  barbecu- 
ing pits  on  the  hill  to  the  southwest  of  town, 
indicating  the  place  for  the  people  to  gather  at.  It 
was  in  the  grove  where  protracted  revival  meetings 
were  usually  held.  A  large  bush  arbor  had  been 
made,  and  a  broad  platform  stand  erected  for  the 
orator  and  distinguished  persons  to  occupy.  Yankee 
White  was  the  orator  of  the  day — Yankee  was  pre- 
fixed to  his  name  to  distinguish  him  from  the  othei 
Whites  of  the  town,  beside,  he  came  from  Yan- 
kee-land, and  was  a  very  good  citizen;  he  came 
within  a  few  votes,  on  one  occasion,  of  being  elected 
to  the  Legislature.  The  day  was  propitious;  the 
bright  sunshine  made  everything  look  gay  and 
beautiful,  and  all  present  were  patriotically  happy. 
Several  volunteer  companies  were  on  hand  hand- 
somely uniformed.  The  order  of  the  day  was  an^ 
nounced  from  the  court-house  door.  The  procession 
formed  on  the  public  square  and  moved  toward  the 
grove,  animated  by  the  fife  and  the  drum,  discours- 
ing national  music.  As  the  procession  n eared  the 
stand  erected  for  the"  occasion,"  the  horses  and  mules 
hitched  to  the  young  saplings  and  swinging  limbs 
of  the  trees  became  inspirited,  and  began  prancing 
and  dancing  around  their  moorings.  Getting  still 
nearer,  many  became  excited,  broke  lose  and  vaulted 
away  through  the  moving  masses,  with  saddle-skirts 
flapping.      Midst  the  neighing  and  snorts   of  the 


172  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

animatecl  and  excited  horses,  whickering  of  colts 
and  braying  of  mules;  with  the  drum  and  fife,  and 
the  sea  of  the  moving  masses  of  men,  women  and 
children,  closing  in  for  position  and  place,  and  the 
clear,  blue  smoke  passing  up  through  the  long  rows 
of  pigs,  shoats,  lambs,  mutton  and  veal,  smoking 
and  brown,  with  fumes  most  appetising,  the  glorious 
Fourth  was  marshalled  in.  The  stand  Avas  filled 
with  the  men  of  the  day,  and,  after  the  reading  of 
the  Declaration  of  Independence:  "We  hold  these 
truths  to  be  self-evident,  that  all  men  are  born 
equal,"  etc.,  after  the  order  of  old  times  celebra- 
tion, the  orator  of  the  day  rose  and  delivered  his 
"Spread  Eagle"  speech  to  the  sea  of  upturned  faces, 
whose  souls,  filled  with  patriotic  impulses,  made 
more  glorious  the  "  occasion"  by  repeated  shouts  and 
clapping  of  hands.  Then  came  the  dinner — the 
barbecue — spread  out,  on  long  tables  covered  with 
clean,  white  linen.  The  well  browned  and  juicy 
ribs  and  saddles,  bread  baskets  piled  up  with  home- 
made risen  bread  of  both  corn  and  fiour,  pots  and 
pans  of  rich  chicken  pie,  interspersed  with  tarts, 
pies,  puddings,  cakes  and  pickles  for  the  girls  (appe- 
tizing even  to  write  about),  enough  for  all,  and 
basketsful  to  carry  home. 

Dinner  over,  and  toiists  through  with,  a  call  was 
made  for  the  candidates  for  Congress  to  take  the 
stand.  Crockett !  Crockett !  from  an  hundred  voices. 
The  Colonel  ascended  the  stand,  took  ofi:*  his  hat, 
deliberately  pulled  ofi'  his  coat,  and  hung  it  up, 
jjresenting  himself  in  his  shirtsleeves,  midst  deaf- 
ening  applause   and    huzzahs.     The   evening  was 


m  West  Tennessee.  173 

close  and  hot — not  a  breeze  stirring,  save  from  the 
numerous  turkey-tail  fans  ia  motion,  in  the  hands 
of  the  patriotic  matrons  present.  The  recollection 
of  the  writer  does  not  serve  him  in  giving  even  a 
synopsis  of  the  Colonel's  speech.  It  was  plain  and 
sensible,  however,  with  now  and  then  a  dry,  witty 
allusion  to  his  educated  opponents,  which  would 
bring  down  thunders  of  applause  and  "  hurray  for 
Crockett;'  and  "  hurray  for  Davy.''  "Be  sure  you  are 
right,  then  go  ahead."  The  Colonel  was  followed 
by  the  other  candidates  in  order,  the  last  speaker 
being  Major  Jim  Clarke.  Excusing  himself  on 
account  of  the  lateness  of  the  hour,  he  simply 
announced  himself  a  candidate  for  a  seat  in  the 
Congress  of  the  United  States;  saying  that  it  was 
getting  late  in  the  afternoon.  That,  for  a  wonder, 
it  had  not  rained  on  the  "glorious  Fourth;"  that, 
judging  others  by  himself,  he  concluded  that  "all 
were  getting  dvj.  That  over  at  his  store  were  five 
five-gallon  demijohns,  which  would  speak  for  him 
in  tlie  fullness  of  the  spirit  with  which  they  were 
filled."  With  such  a  talk,  the  Major  leaped  from 
the  stand,  and  shouted  for  all  to  follow  him. 
Clarke  had  made  a  "ten-strike,"  leaving  no  dead 
wood  behind  him.  It  was  the  only  one  he  made  in 
the  canvass.  The  day  of  the  election  was  close  at 
hand.  The  result  of -the  vote  was,  for  Crockett, 
6,786;  Alexander,  4,300;  Estes,  132,  and  Clarke  9. 
Clarke,  it  is  due  his  memory,  as  well  as  the  history 
of  the  canvass,  to  say  withdrew  from  the  field,  and 
engaged  in  the  building  of  a  turnpike  across  the 
Big  Hatchie  bottom,  where  his  hard  earning  went 


174  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

drifting  with  the  turbulent  waters  of  the  river. 
In  justice  to  the  memory  of  Captain  Joel  Estes, 
who  was  perhaps  the  most  intellectual  of  the  candi- 
dates in  the  field,  it  may  not  be  inappropriate  as  a 
part  of  the  history  of  the  times,  to  allow  a  place  in 
these  pages,  for  the  following,  taken  from  the 
Jackson  Gazette^  a  newspaper  then  published  in 
Jackson,  Madison  county,  by  Colonel  D.  C. 
McLean.  It  appeared  in  the  issue  of  that  paper  of 
the  15th  of  August,  1829.  The  election  having  been 
held  on  the  first  Monday  of  the  same  month. 

[For  the  Gazette 

"Mr.  Editor:  As  the  election  is  now  over,  per- 
haps it  would  not  be  amiss,  nay,  justice,  to  say  what 
was  the  cause  of  Captain  Estes  not  holding  a  better 
poll.  A  great  excitement  having  been  raised 
among  the  people  by  the  friends  of  the  two  great 
political  champions  of  the  West,  Colonels  Crockett 
and  Alexander,  that  a  correct,  mild  and  independent 
political  course  was  swallowed  up  in  the  vortex  of 
ambitious  buzzing.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  time 
is  not  far  distant  when  this  electioneering  mania 
will  cease,  and  true  merit,  untrameled  by  party 
spirit,  will  assume  her  dignity  of  character. 

[Signed]  "A  Voter." 

As  a  specimen  of  the  amusing  interest  the  repre- 
sentative of  thirteen  counties  in  West  Tennessee 
afforded  to  the  newspaper  men  of  those  days,  I  copy 
entire  a  speech  the  Colonel  is  reported  to  have 
■  made  during  the  canvass  of  1829,  by  a  correspondent 
of  the  Missouri  Bepiiblican.  The  correspondent 
writes  thus: 


in  West  Tenness$e.  175 

''  The  honorable  Mr.  Crockett,  being  on  the  day 
of  election  at  one  of  the  hustings  in  Tennessee,  and 
having  heard  two  of  his  able  opponents  address  the 
people,  was  at  a  loss  how  to  attract  their  attention 
to  the  remarks  he  wished  to  make,  and  asked  the 
gentleman  who  had  just  spoken  how  he  should 
effect  his  object,  to  which  the  gentleman  replied 
(intending  to  quiz),  'mount  that  stump  and  cry,  a 
bear  to  be  skined.'  Davy  taking  it  litterally, 
mounted  the  stump,  and  sung  out  at  the  top  of  his 
voice,  'A  bear  to  be  skinned,'  when  the  crowd 
gathered  around  him,  and  he  began : 

"'Friends,  Fellow-citizens,  Brothers  and 
Sisters  :  On  the  first  Tuesday,  previous  to  next 
Saturday,  you  will  be  called  on  to  perform  one  of 
the  most  important  duties  that  belong  to  free  white 
folks — that  are  a  fact.  On  that  day  you  will  be 
called  upon  to  elect  your  members  to  the  Senate 
and  House  of  Representatives  in  the  Congress  of 
the  United  States,  and  feeling  that  in  times  of  great 
political  commotion  like  these,  it  becomes  you  to  be 
well  represented,  I  feel  no  hesitation  in  offering 
myself  as  a  candidate  to  represent  such  a  high- 
minded  and  magnanimous  white  set. 

"  'Friends,  fellow- citizens,  brothers  and  sisters: 
Carroll  is  a  statesman,  Jackson  is  a  hero,  and  Crock- 
ett is  a  horse! ! 

"  '  Friends,  fellow-citizens,  brothers  and  sisters : 
They  accuse  me  of  adultery,  it's  a  lie — I  never  ran 
away  with  any  man's  wife,  that  was  not  willing,  in 
my  life.  They  accuse  me  of  gambling,  it's  a  lie — 
for  I  always  plank  down  the  cash. 


176  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

"  ^Friends,  fellow-citizens,  brothers  and  sisters: 
They  accuse  me  of  being  a  drunkard,  it's  a  d — d 
eternal  lie — for  whisky  can't  make  me  drunk.'  " 


y  >? 


in  West  Tennessee,  177 


CAPTER  VIII. 

The  Mountain  Academy — James  Holmes,  D.  D.,  His 
Pupils — My  Boom- Mate — Style  of  Dress —  Gamp- Meeting 
—  Youth  and   Love.  _ 

l^ORTH  of  the  Big  Hatchie  was  yet  a  part  of  Tipton. 
It  was  not  until  1836-7  that  it  was  embraced  in  the 
county  of  Lauderdale,  which  was  established  in 
that  year. 

My  father  had  become  satisfied  with  his  experi- 
ment at  tavern-keeping,  and  returned  to  the  old 
homestead  north  of  the  Hatchie.  As  yet  there 
were  no  good  schools  in  Tipton  north  of  the 
Hatchie.  My  next  eldest  brother,  who  was  being 
educated  for  a  lawyer,  was  sent  to  college  at 
Nashville,  and  I  to  the  "Mountain  Academy,"  an 
institution  just  founded  by  the  Reverend  James 
Holmes. 

The  establishing  of  the  "Mountain  Academy" 
marked  an  era  in  the  educational  department  of 
Tipton,  and  no  one  contributed  more  to  the  forming 
of  a  correct  state  of  the  society  of  the  county  than 
its  able  and  accomplished  founder  and  principal. 
The  school  was  long  noted  as  the  best  in  West 
Tennessee,  and  hundreds  of  youths  were  instruced 
and  trained  there,  who  became  eminent  as  teachers 
and  professional  men.  The  name  of  James  Holmes, 
D.    D.,  is   more   intimately  connected   with   West 


178  Bernmiseences  of  Old. Times 

Tennessee  as  an  educator  and  instructor  of  the 
young,  both  male  and  female,  than,  perhaps,  any 
other  man  of  letters.  Imbued  with  the  fundamen- 
tal principles  of  practical  philosophy,  his  every 
undertaking  was  marked  by  the  clearest  light  of 
reason  and  sound  jundgment.  As  a  man,  he  lived 
a  life  of  Christain  virtues,  ignorant  of  remorse,  and 
blameless. 

Mr.  Holmes  was  a  native  of  Pennsylvania,  his 
birth-place  Carlye.  His  father  died  when  he  waft 
in  his  childhood,  leaving  him  to  the  tender  care 
and  training  of  a  pious  mother.  He  was  noted  in 
early  life  for  his  studious  habits;  graduating  at 
Dickinson  College  before  he  was  twenty-one,  he 
repaired  to  Prinston,  and  entered  the  theological 
school.  His  feeble  state  of  health,  however,  re- 
quired that  he  should  relax  his  studies  for  the 
ministery,  and  seek  a  recuperating  field ;  none  better 
offered  than  the  mission  among  the  Chickasaw 
Indians,  which  he  accepted  in  his  twenty-third 
year. 

In  1824,  we  find  him  among  the  Chickasaws, 
opening  a  school  for  the  teaching  and  training  of 
the  red  children  of  the  forest.  The  reader  can 
picture  to  himself  the  youthful  missionary  assem- 
bling the  red  men  of  the  wilderness,  grouped  under 
the  shadows  of  the  noble  forest  trees,  near  where 
Pontotoc,  Mississippi,  now  stands.  The  old  chief 
and  his  braves,  seated  upon  the  ground,  the  old 
men,  women  and  children,  forming  the  back  ground 
of  the  picture,  with  the  3'Oung  griidnate  standing 
erect  before  them,  relating  the  object  of  his  mission. 


in  West  Tennessee.  179 

Alone  in  that  wild  territory  he  stood,  in  the  spring 
time  of  life,  away  from  old  associates  and  familiar 
scenes.  May  we  not  conclude  that  his  language 
and  words  spoken,  were  in  the  spirit  of  the  great 
and  pure  founder  of  his  native  State.  When  speak- 
ing to  the  Algonquins  he  said : 

"  We  meet  on  the  broad  pathway  of  good  faith  and 
good  will.  I  will  not  call  you  children  nor  brothers 
only,  for  brothers  differ.  The  friendship  between 
you  and  me,  I  will  not  compare  to  a  chain,  for  that 
the  rains  might  rust  or  a  fallen  tree  break.  "We  are 
the  same  as  if  one  man's  body  were  to  be  divided 
in  two  parts.  We  are  all  one  flesh  and  one  blood" — 
(pointing  to  the  heaven  above) 

*  W&ere  the  souls  of  heathens  go, 
"Wh  )  better  live  thai  we,  though  less  they  kaow.'" 

Mr.  Holmes  labored  among  the  Chickasaws  from 
1824  to  1833,  when  it  was  decided  to  remove  them 
west  of  the  Mississippi. 

As  a  mark  of  the  high  esteem  in  which  he  was 
held  by  the  Chiakasaws,  a  large  number  of  Indian 
girls  and  boys  followed  him  to  Tipton,  and  remained 
under  his  tutilage  until  they  were  required  to  return 
to  join  their  red  friends  in  their  removal  West. 

The  second  year  of  Mr.  Holmes'  sojourn  among 
the  Chickasaws  he  was  accepted  as  the  husband  of 
the  noble  and  heroic  Miss  Sarah  Van  Wagenon,  of 
Newark,  N.  J.,  whose  first  wedding  tour  was  among 
the  children  of  the  forest,  who  cheerfully  exchanged 
the  luxuries  and  comforts,  the  pleasures  and  enjoy- 
ments of  the  cultivated  and  refined  society  of  h«r 
native  city,  and  braved  the  perils  and  hardships  in- 


180  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

cident  to  life  in  a  savage  territory,  to  live  with  the 
man  she  loved,  and  share  with  him  his  pleasures  and 
triumphs.  Few  wives  are  marked  with  such  hero- 
ism. Mrs.  Homes  survives  her  noble  husband, 
after  a  happy  wedded  life  of  forty-seven  years. 

The  ''Mountain  Church'"  was  organized  in  his 
house  in  1834,  and  he  was  made  a  ruling  elder. 
Feeble  lungs,  and  consequent  weak  voice,  debared 
him  from  taking  an  active  part  in  the  ministry.  In 
the  early  history  of  the  "Mountain  Church"  an 
occasion  oftered  illustrative  of  his  great  character 
and  influence.  It  is  related  that  some  difficulty 
grew  up  in  the  church,  difficult  to  settle,  and  likely 
to  work  harm.  When  the  cloud  of  discord  por- 
tended evil,  and  was  most  thrilling,  his  smooth, 
even-tempered  good  sense  hghted  up  the  reason  of 
the  contentious,  producing  an  immediate,  amicable 
adjustment.  He  possessed  in  a  high  degree  a  sa- 
gacity of  mind  wdiicli  enabled  him  to  separate  that 
which  belongs  to  individual  prejudice  from  that 
which  commends  itself  to  the  more  raiional.  He 
ever  avoided  the  jars  and  jarring  of  men,  and  con- 
troversies. His  words,  at  all  times  "freighted  with 
truth,"  commanded  the  car  and  enjo^'ed  the  conli- 
dence  of  all  men. 

The  degree  of  D.  D.  was  conferred  on  him  in 
1846.  In  1849  he  was  elected  to  the  Presidency  of 
the  West  Tennessee  College  at  Jackson.  The  col- 
lege never  prospered  more  than  while  under  his 
management.  Still  preserving  his  love  and  attach- 
ment for  the  people  of  Tipton,  with  fond  memories 
of  Iris  early   teaching  at  the  "Mountain,"  he  dis- 


in  West  Tennessee.  181 

solved  his  couuectiou  with  the  college  at  Jackson, 
and  fixed  his  residence  in  Covington,  taking  charge 
of  the  ''Female  Seminary"  at  that  place,  which  con- 
tinued under  his  management  up  to  the  time  of  his 
death.  That  large  band  of  young  women,  who  live 
to  adorn  the  society  of  West  Tennessee,  trace  with 
pride  and  pleasure  their  training  and  education  and 
refined  deportment  back  to  the  "  Mountain  Acad- 
emy" and  the  "Female  Seminary,"  and  attest  the 
truth  of  this  brief  sketch  of  my  old  preceptor,  whose 
memory  we  alike  venerate. 

I  had  commenced  this  brief  sketch  of  Mr.  Holmes, 
and  had  written  to  him  asking  a  synopsis  of  his 
early  life,  and  was  answered  by  his  son,  referring 
me  to  an  obituary  notice  of  him. 

A  more  loving  character  I  never  knew — a  theme 
worthy  a  better  pen.  His  long  and  eventful  life 
has  become  history;  his  noble  Christian  virtues  live 
embalmed  in  the  memories  of  all  who  knew  him. 
He  had  lived  all  the  days  allotted  to  man ;  born  on  the 
21st  of  August,  1801,  and  died  on  the  —  day  of 
February,  1873,  in  the  seventy-first  year  of  his  age. 

A  touching  incident,  beautifully  illustrative  of 
the  wonderful  power  and  influence  exercised  by  Mr. 
Holmes  over  those  who  fell  under  his  training  and 
pupilage,  I  may  be  permitted  to  relate  a  story  told 
me,  most  interesting  in  Indian  life.  On  the  fourth 
Chickasaw  bluff,  in  the  vicinity  where  Court  Square 
is  situated,  long  before  Memphis  was  a  village,  at 
the  mouth  of  Wolf,  stood  an  Indian  hut,  the  dwell- 
ing place  of  a  half-breed;  (his  wife  was  a  full  blood). 
From  them  sprang  many  sons.     One  of  them,  the 


182  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

eldest,  perhaps,  mingled  much  with  the  whites  us 
they  came  in  and  settled  upon  the  bluff.  lie  soon 
learned  to  drink  whisky,  and  like  most  whisky 
drinkers,  became  dissolute.  Wishing  likewise  to 
acquire  a  knowledge  of  books,  to  read  and  write 
like  the  white  man,  he  resolved  to  join  the  school 
of  instruction,  which  had  commenced  its  operation 
by  Mr.  H.  Holmes.  Prevailing  on  others  of  his  as- 
sociates to  go  with  him,  it  was  soon  arranged  and  the 
day  fixed  for  them  to  start.  Filling  his  pack  and 
binding  up  his  blanket,  none  were  found  ready  on 
the  day  appointed  but  himself  In  his  eagerness, 
he  left  alone  and  on  foot  to  join  the  missionary 
school,  situated  near  where  Pontotoc  now  stands. 
At  noontide  he  stopped  by  the  side  of  a  bright  run- 
ning stream  for  rest,  and  to  refresh  himself  from  his 
scanty  stores.  Seated  on  the  bank  of  the  stream, 
its  bright  waters  rippling  at  his  feet,  alone  in  the 
deep  shades  of  his  native  forest,  he  drew  from  his 
pack,  among  other  things,  a  bottle  of  whisky. 
Holding  it  up  in  the  clear  sunlight  he  began  to  re- 
flect— as  he  had  never  done  before — of  the  evil  and 
trouble  whisky  had  brought  upon  his  race.  Cast- 
ing his  eye  down  upon  the  clear  rippling  waters 
flowing  beneath  his  feet,  without  uncorking  his  bot- 
tle ho  returned  it  to  his  pack,  refreshed  himself 
from  the  waters  of  the  branch,  ate  of  his  scanty  sup- 
plies, and  resumed  his  tramp  toward  the  missionary 
school.  When  night  overtook  him  he  rolled  him- 
self up  in  his  blanket  and  slept  alone  in  the  wilder- 
ness. Refreshed  by  sleep,  he  rose  early,  and  re- 
isiuued  his  earnest  steps,  until   he  reached  a  suitable 


in  Wc-^t  Tennessee.  183 

place  for  rest  and  eating.  Taking  out  his  bottle  of 
whisky  again  he  withdrew  the  stopper.  When  in 
the  act  of  puttino;  the  fiery  fluid  to  his  lips,  the 
same  thoughts  rushed  upon  him  again.  Rising  to 
his  feet,  and  without  tasting,  he  dashed  it  against 
the  nearest  tree.  Refreshing  himself  again  from  the 
bright  waters  of  the  wilderness,  he  ate  his  frugal 
meal  and  continued  his  walk.  Reaching  the  mis- 
sionary station — ^it  was  on  the  Sabbath — his  people  had 
already  gathered  at  the  chappel  in  the  shady  grove, 
he  made  his  w\ay  to  it  and  took  his  seat  among  them. 
He  had  learned  to  speak  and  understand  English, 
and  w^as  an  attentive  listener  to  the  man  of  God. 
In  the  discriptive  portion  of  the  discourse,  as  it  fell 
from  the  lips  of  the  pure  Christian  man,  truthful  to 
nature  and  most  touching  and  gentle  in  its  delinea- 
tion of  human  devices  aimed  for  the  destruction  of 
man,  the  young  red  man  realized  his  own  situation, 
and  read  in  the  strong  picture  of  human  misery  and 
sin,  drawn  to  very  life,  the  picture  of  himself. 
Illustrating  most  truthfully  incidents  and  scenes 
connected  with  his  past  career,  he  concluded  at 
once  that  the  story  of  his  past  life  had  been 
told  to  the  preacher.  Rising  to  his  feet  in  the 
midst  of  the  discourse,  he  slowly  glanced  his 
eyes  over  the  gathered  multitude  to  see  if  some  of 
his  companions  and  associates  were  not  there; 
whether  they  had  not  arrived  ahead  of  him  and 
related  to  the  good  missionary  much  of  the  trutli 
of  what  he  was  saying.  Fiiiding  none  of  the 
those  Ins  eyes  had  searched  for,  he  rusumed  his 
seat  riviting  his  eyes  upon  the   divine  sv)eaker.     It 


184  Beminiscences  of  Old  Times 

seemed  to  him  that  the  burden  of  the  discourse  was 
specially  directed  at  him.  He  rose  again  and 
scaned  the  members  present.  Finding  none  that 
he  knew  among  his  bluff  associates,  he  sank  upon 
his  seat.  The  spirit  of  the  white  man's  God  had 
revealed  to  him  the  whole  truth  and  he  became  a 
Christian. 

I  boarded  with  "the  best  man  in  the  world,"  old 
Father  "Wilson.  The  Reverend  Hugh  Wilson  was 
a  co-laborer  with  Mr.  Holmes,  as  a  missionary  and 
teacher  among  the  Chickasaws ;  his  aim  and  object 
in  teaching  at  the  "  Mountain"  was  to  establish  a 
"  Manual  Laboring  School,"  the  experiment  failed, 
however,  and  he  migrated  to  Texas. 

My  room-mate  was  a  rising  young  man — a  benne- 
ficiary  scholar — under  the  auspices  of  the  Presby- 
tery sent  to  the  "Mountain,"  to  be  educated  for  the 
ministry.  A  pure,  pious  Christian  was  Andrew 
Allison,  also  a  beneficiary,  and  boarded  with  father 
Wilson.  Everybody  loved  Allison,  and  nobody 
loved  my  room-mate,  yet  he  loved  himself — the  very 
embodiment  of  selfishness.  Born  so,  he  couldn't 
help  it;  ugly  as  home-made  sin,  yet  he  was  vain 
enough  to  think  himself  handsome;  that  he  was 
vain  in  that,  I  will  put  his  picture  in  a  frame,  and 
the  reader  can  judge. 

In  hight,  he  was  under  the  average  of  men  in 
that  day,  he  might  have  been  five  feet  five,  with 
more  body  than  legs,  very  square  in  the  shoulders, 
with  arms,  when  standing  erect,  reaching  to  the  tops 
of  his  boot-legs,  hands  broader  than  a  beaver's  tail, 
with   fingers   like   young   "handspikes."      Darwin 


in  West  Tennessee.  185 

would  have  selected  him  as  a  fair  specimen  of  the 
"Origin  of  Man."  His  hair  black  and  shiney,  kept 
so  by  the  profuse  use  of  bears-greese ;  eyes  small 
and  likewise  black,  glistening  like  a  chinquepin ; 
dark  skin,  thick  and  bumpy,  with  mouth  and  nose 
not  unlike  other  people.  Yet,  his  mouth  had  its 
expression  more  peculiar  to  himself  than  other  peo- 
ple, lips  rather  thin,  were  long  enough  to  lap  over, 
but  he  had  a  way  of  sucking  them  in  at  the  corners, 
as  if  they  had  been  stained  with  molasses.  But  his 
foot,  he  wore  a  No.  11  brogan,  being  rights  and 
lefts,  the  right  shoe  was  a  better  fit  on  the  left  foot, 
as  was  the  left  shoe  abetter  fit  on  the  right  foot.  To 
wear  them  thus,  the  toes  of  his  shoes  didn't  turn 
out  any.  He  was  rather  inclined  to  be  bow-legged 
and  slightly  pigeon-toed.  Such  is  u\y  recollection 
of  the  person  of  my  friend  and  room-mate,  while  at 
the  "Mountain  Academy."  He  was  sanetinumlously 
pious.  JSTot  much  in  sympathy  with  him,  I  was  often 
the  subject  of  a  pious  lecture  from  him.  He  rather 
took  it  upon  himself  to  keep  me  in  the  "strait 
way,"  especially  on  Sabbath  days.  An  incident 
occurred  while  we  were  pupils  together,  and  dwell- 
ing in  the  same  log-cabin,  that  gave  me  the  mastery 
over  him,  and  put  an  end  to  his  pious  lectures, greatly 
to  my  relief.  Father  Wilson  and  his  good  wife, 
with  whom  we  boarded,  were  of  the  old  "  blue 
stocking"  order.  J^othing  was  allowed  to  be  cooked 
on  the  Sabbath.  Cold  com  risc7i  bread  1  abominated, 
besides  two  meals  were  rather  short,  even  in  the 
short  days  of  early  fall.  The  potato  patch  being 
convenient,  I  made  out,  without  grumbling.     Mv 


186  Rrmintscevees  of  Old  Times 

room-mate,  like  myself,  was  fond  of  roasted  pota- 
toes. The  patch  was  very  convenient.  We  had 
to  pass  through  it  in  getting  to  the  cabin  we 
occupied,  and  he  was  an  expert  grabbler.  "He  had  a 
quick  eye  in  discovering  the  best  hills.  Circling  his 
long,  "hand-spike"  fingers  around  a  well-filled  hill, 
he  would  bring  out  a  mess  at  a  haul.  On  Sundays, 
however,  he  would  neither  grabble  or  eat,  and  lec- 
tured me  for  the  "sin  of  the  thing."  I  took  his 
lectures  for  what  they  were  worth,  roasting  rather 
more  on  Sunday  nights,  to  make  up  for  the  loss  of 
my  third  meal. 

'  It  was  the  habit  of  my  room-mate  to  spend  his 
Sabbath  evenings  down  at  the  house  with  Father 
AVilson  and  the  family,  seldom  returing  to  the  cabin 
until  after  prayers.  One  Sunday  night  I  filled  the 
fire  full  of  potatoes,  and  walked  up  the  hill  to  pay  a 
visit  to  my  eldest  sister,  who  was  likewise  a  pupil 
of  Mr.  Holmes,  and  boarded  with  him.  My  visit 
was  necessarily  cut  short,  to  return  and  look  after 
my  potatoes.  When  nearing  the  cabin,  I  discovered 
some  one  through  the  cracks  of  the  logs  stiring  in 
the  fire.  I  quickened  my  pace,  reaching  the  door, 
I  shoved  it  wide  open,  and  who  should  it  be  but  my 
pious  room-mate,  from  whom  I  expected  a  moral 
lecture  for  violating  the  Sabbath  day.  He  had 
taken  out  one  of  my  best  yams,  (having  smoothed 
the  ashes  over  the  remaining  ones),  and  was  in  the 
act  of  blowiiig  the  ashes  oft'  of  it  as  I  stepped  in. 
"Halloo!"  says  I,  "you  liere  ?  Is  prayers  over?" 
He  had  began  to  squirm  and  twist  himself  around 
in  the  chair.     Replying  to  me,  he  w^hinod  out  (it 


in  West  Tennessee.  187 

was  his  habit  to  droll  out  his  words),  and  said  that 
he  was  ''feeling  bad — that  he.  had  a  sorter  griping^ 
His  discomfortiire  was  so  great,  that  I  began  to  feel 
for  him,  and  rattle  awaj^  some  nonsense  or  other. 
In  the  meantime  he  was  squirming  as  though  in 
pain,  while  shoving  my  yam  dow^n  into  his  breeches 
pocket.  It  soon  began  to  burn  beyond  his  endur- 
ance, when  he  rose,  and  made  a  quick  move  for  the 
door,  the  steam  rising  from  the  smoking-hot  yam, 
as  he  made  his  exit.  I  called  to  him  to  "hold  on, 
I  would  go  to  prayers  with  him."  Pulling  my  pota- 
toes out  on  the  hearth,  I  leaped  out  of  the  door, 
and  followed  him,  keeping  so  close  that  he  could 
make  no  disposition  of  his  hot  tormentor.  It  was 
terrible  on  him.  Tight  pants  were  then  the  style. 
lie  had  on  his  best  Sundays.  The  tights  kept  his 
burning  companion  close  up  to  his  skin.  On  he 
went  leaning  to  it,  until  we  reached  the  house,  and 
opening  the  door,  we  found  the  family  n^aking  pre- 
l)aration  for  prayers.  We  sank  down  in  the  nearest 
chairs,  when  Father  Wilson  called  on  Allison  to 
read.  During  the  reading,  my  room-n^ate  was  very 
restless,  twisting  about  in  his  seat,  attracting  the 
attention  of  Mother  Wilson.  My  frame  of  mind 
was  greatly  in  sympathy  with  his  suffering — won- 
dering whether  he  could  get  his  frame  of  mind  in 
the  straight  way  by  the  time  the  reading  was 
through  with,  as  he  surely  would  be  called  on  to 
pray.  The  sacred  book  closed;  we  all  went  down 
upon  our  knees,  and  he  was  called  on  to  pray.  I 
never  before  heard  him  pray  so  well;  he  prayed 
hard  and  earnest  for  all  sinful  flesh — for  us  not  to  be 


188  Remimsccnces  of  Old  Times 

tempted;  that  we  should  not  hunger  after  that  which 
was  forbidden,  dwelling  long  upon  the  total  depravity 
of  man.  As  he  warmed  up  the  potatoes  cooled 
down.  I  had  forgiven  him — he  had  merited  for- 
giveness, and  I  freely  forgave  him  in  that,  that  I 
never  let  him  know  that  I  had  caught  him  in  an 
ashey  trick.  The  joke  was  too  good  to  be  kept  from 
Allison. 

The  first  camp-meeting  held  in  that  part  of  the 
country  was  in  the  course  of  preparation,  in  the 
Clopton  settlement,  some  six  miles  from  the 
"Mountain."  I  may  be  permitted  to  make  myself 
the  hero,  in  showing  oif  the  fashion  and  style  of 
dress,  as  well  as  a  ridiculous  mishap^  forming  an  in- 
cident in  real  life. 

It  was  seldom  that  I  missed  going  to  a  big  meet- 
ing or  a  ball,  when  in  reach  of  me.  To  this  camp- 
meeting  I  was  bound  to  go.  It  came  to  m.y  knowl- 
edge that  ^  party  from  Randolph  would  be  there, 
with  whom  a  certain  young  lady  would  surely  come, 
which  greatly  increased  my  anxiety  to  go.  It  was 
about  the  time  for  me  to  get  a  new  suit  of  clothes. 
To  get  them  made,  and  in  time  for  the  camp-meeting 
I  went  into  Covington  two  weeks  before  hand,  and 
ordered  them,  resolving  to  be  in  the  tip  and  hight  of 
the  fashion.  I  went  to  Bill  McGaughey,  a  fashion, 
able  young  tailor.  Bill  had  just  received  his  fall 
fashions — the  latest  styles  from  New  York  and 
Philadelphia.  He  was  a  very  fine  artist  in  the  way 
of  getting  up  a  good  fit.  I  was  well  shaped  for 
eighteen — stood  six  feet  in  silk  stockings  and  danc- 
ing pumps.     Only  lacking  in  flesh,  Bill  and  myself 


in  West  Tennessee.  189 

were  the  same  size  to  a  button.  He  always  wore 
fine  fitting  clothes  of  Ms  own  make,  illustrative  of 
the  style,  as  well  as  the  art  he  had  attained  in  his 
trade.  He  took  my  measure  for  coat,  vest  and  pants. 
The  cloth  for  the  suit,  with  full  trimmings,  buck- 
rum  and  buttons,  with  black  silk  velvet  for  the 
collar,  was  sent  to  his  shop.  The  cloth  for  the  coat, 
brown;  style,  frock;  coming  down  to  the  knees; 
vest,  buff  casimere,  with  bright  gilt  buttons;  and 
pants,  pongee  silk,  lavender  color. 

The  handsome  young  professor  of  the  "goose" 
and  I  were  good  friends.  He  promised  me  a  good 
fit,  and  in  time  for  the  camp-meeting.  I  returned 
to  the  "Mountain,"  well  pleased  with  myself  and 
the  rest  of  mankind. 

The  time  having  elapsed  for  my  suit  to  be  ready, 
I  went  in  for  it.  They  were  ready,  and  I  tried  them 
on.  The  fit  was  charming.  Bill  had  added  another 
leaf  to  his  laurels  for  being  the  best-fitting  tailor 
in  town. 

The  coat  set  well  upon  my  square  shoulders ;  the 
tail  full,  and  coming  well  down  to  the  knees,  with 
its  high  double-breasted  rolling  collar.  The  pants 
were  in  the  tip  of  the  style — tights — fitting  tight  as 
the  skin  from  the  knees  up — increasing  in  looseness 
down  to  the  foot ;  buttoned  down  with  broad  straps. 
The  vest  of  a  light  bufi:'  cassimere,  with  fancy  gilt 
buttons — buttoned  up  to  the  throat.  I  felt  that  none 
would  be  at  the  camp-meeting  better  dressed  or 
more  in  the  style,  and  was  all  axiety  to  be  on  the 
ground.  My  friend  Bill  put  them  up  in  a  neat 
parcel,  and  I  returned   to  the  "Mountain."     I  was 


190  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

up  the  next  morniDg  bright  and  early.  I  had  pro- 
cured a  horse  from  Elder  Lynn,  and  borrowed 
Father  Wilson's  saddle. 

The  riding  on  horse  back  six  or  more  miles  in 
my  pongees  troubled  me,  lest  they  should  become 
soiled.  I  had  wrapped  the  stirrup-leathers  and 
lengthened  them  out,  to  keep  from  bending  my 
knees,  as  much  as  possible.  In  jprim  trim  I  was 
ready  to  mount.  The  horse  was  a  tall  one.  Find- 
ing it  difficult  to  bend  the  knee,  I  sought  a  stump, 
vaulted  into  the  saddle  and  road  away  at  a  rapid  pace, 
to  keep  ahead  of  the  crowd.  An  hour's  ride  brought 
me  in  sight  of  the  smoke  and  bustle  of  the  camp- 
grounds. The  site  had  been  well  selected  in  the 
heart  of  the  forest;  the  undergrowth  grubbed  out, 
the  young  trees  trimmed  up,  and  avenues  opened. 
Every  possible  attention  had  been  given  to  render 
the  grounds  pleasant  and  inviting.  It  seemed  as 
though  everybody  was  there.  For  hundreds  of 
yards  around  the  stand  every  available  bush  and 
hitching  place  had  been  appropriated. 

Riding  around  to  find  a  safe  place  for  hitching, 
and  a  convenient  log  or  stump  to  aid  me  in  dis- 
mounting, I  came  upon  the  carriages  and  vehicles  of 
the  Randolph  party.  By  accident  I  had  fallen  into 
the  company  of  friends  and  acquaintances.  My 
horse  was  taken  in  charge,  and  an  invitation  to  make 
the  carriages  my  headquarters.  I  was  not  long  in 
finding  out  that  Miss  C.  was  of  the  party.  My 
feelings  were  ixexpressible — in  a  maze  of  delight  at 
my  good  luck.  Either  I  was  in  love,  or  I  was  not; 
I  felt  that  I  was.     And  if  I  was  not,  it  was  all  the 


in  West  Tennessee.  191 

same  as  if  it  were  a  veritable  fact.  I  had  met  her 
before,  and  not  always  ''by  chance."  The  last 
time  we  met  was  at  a  ball,  and  we  danced  together 
more  than  once,  and  twice  in  succession;  and, 
wearied  not  of  each  other.  It  had  not  taken  a  seri- 
ous shape,  however.  I  had  only  played  upon  the 
surface.  Yet  I  was  within  a  stride  of  deep  water. 
I  soon  learned  that  the  Held  was  not  alone  to  me; 
a  rival  was  upon  the  ground  in  close  attendance. 
He  was  a  dangerous  one;  for  he  was  rich,  beside 
he  had  wit,  and  was  most  agreeable.  But  he  was 
old  in  years — double  my  age;  yet  he  was  good  look- 
ing and  tall;  only  9.  little  ball  on  the  top  of  his  head, 
with  flowing  black  locks.  He  looked  best  with  his 
hat  on. 

I  felt  my  youth,  and  never  was  more  proud  of  it. 
I  was  vain  enough  to  think  it  would  eventuate  to 
my  advantage.  I  feared  only  his  riches.  She,  like 
myself,  was  young  and  ardent.  It  was  most  natural 
for  young  people  to  love  one  another.  We  soon 
met;  he  joked  me  about  her,  and  complimented 
my  tailor.  I  was  pleased  and  flattered.  I  became 
bold,  and  felt  like  "  taking  the  bull  by  the  horns." 
I  was  in  love.  The  ladies  of  the  party  were  up  at 
the  stand.  We  walked  leisurely  to  join  them. 
They  were  grouped  together  on  the  outskirts  of  the 
stand.  A  glancing  look  told  me  that  her  eyes  were 
upon  us.  Casting  my  eyes  down  upon  my  pongees, 
and  adjusting  my  coat  collar,  I  left  my  old  bachelor 
friend  and  rival,  and  moved  with  the  elasticity  of 
vain  youth  and  joined  the  party.  She  was  the  belle 
and  center  of  attraction  in  the  little  circle.     Younsr, 


192  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

blithe  and  fresh,  gay  and  froUcsome  as  a  sportive 
lamb  of  a  May  morning,  tall  and  most  bewitchingly 
shaped,  with  clusters  of  bright,  gloosy  light-brown 
hair  falling  around  her  broad  white  forehead,  long 
lashes,  a  shade  darker,  fringing  over  the  purest  blue 
eye,  large  and  clear,  reflecting  a  generous,  loving 
nature — the  very  soul  of  love.  Voice  rich,  full  and 
musical  as  it  fell  from  her  choral  lips;  with  her 
silvery  laugh  she  was  perfectly  irresistible.  Every 
feature  of  her  young,  loving  face  in  "unison  with  a 
soul  born  to  love,  scintillated  a  pleasurable  hope, 
as  I  walked  up  and  clasped  her  soft,  ungloved 
hand  with  a  warm  and  impressive  shake,  a  gleam 
of  affectionate  pleasure  lighted  up  her  countenance, 
assuring  me  that  our  greeting  w^as  agreeable — that 
she  yet  remembered  when  last  we  danced  together. 
It  was  yet  an  hour  before  the  noon  service  would 
begin.  I  suggested  a  stroll  in  the  grove,  offering 
my  arm  (quite  a  fashion  in  those  days).  Taking  it, 
she  expressed  her  delight  that  the  opportunity 
offered  by  which  she  could  escape  the  gaze  of  so 
many  new  faces.  Passing  near  my  old  batchelor 
friend  and  rival,  who  yet  remained  where  I  had  left 
him,  and  who  had  been  a  "  looker-on,"  a  furtive 
srlance  came  from  under  his  dark  brows.  We 
passed  on  in  a  sportive  manner  and  talk,  regardless 
of  the  consequent  remarks  of  the  lookers-on,  or  the 
curious  inquisitive,  until  we  reached  the  carriages 
of  the  party.  Entering  the  one  she  had  came  up  in, 
we  were  alone  to  ourselves.  Counting  not  the  joy- 
ous, happy  moments  (hours  were  as  but  moments  to 
us),  we  were  alone  until  the  hour  for  noon  service 


in  West  Tennessee.  t%^ 

to  begin,  in  a  delirium  of  delight  and  love — joyous 
as  a  loving  dream,  until  the  spell  was  broken  by 
voices  nearing  the  carriage.  Several  ladies  and 
gentlemen  of  the  party,  including  my  rival,  came 
up.  To  relieve  the  situation,  which,  by  their  approach, 
had  become  a  little  embarrassing  and  to  show  oft* 
the  agility  of  youth  I  made  a  spring,  leaping  a  dozen 
or  more  feet,  lighting  in  a  hard  place,  turning  my 
ankle;  my  knees  gave  way,  and  in  the  effort  to  re- 
cover my  feet  my  pongees  gave  way — bursted  from 
knees  to  hip ;  naught  saving  my  utter  exposure  but 
the  long-tail  brown.  My  chagrin  was  inexpressible. 
Making  the  best  of  an  hour's  love  and  triumph,  I 
slept  with  my  room-mate  that  night. 


194  Remmiscenees  of  Old  Times 


CHAPTER    IX. 

Bando^ph  in  Old  Times — Its  Better  Days — Lost  the 
Chance  of  Becoming  a  City — Spirit  of  Internal  Improve- 
ment of  thai  Day — Early  Settlers — First  Newspaper  in 
the  County — The  Murrell  Excitement — Expedition  to 
Shawne  Villagee. 

Randolph,  at  the  period  it  is  the  purpose  of  this 
chapter  to  introduce  to  the  reader,  was  the  most 
flourishing  business  river  town  in  West  Tennessee, 
on  the  Mississippi.  It  was  the  "  receiving  and  for- 
warding" town  for  Tipton,  Haywood,  Fayette, 
Madison,  and  Hardeman.  Eligibly  situated  imme- 
diately below  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Hatchie,  which 
was  navigable  for  small  steamboats  as  high  up  as 
Bolivar,  it  received  a  considerable  trade  from  the 
counties  east  of  Madison  and  Hardeman. 

Had  the  project  of  connecting  the  waters  of  the 
Tennessee  river  with  the  Hatchie,  as  was  suggested 
by  a  few  enterprising  men  of  that  day,  and  recom- 
mended by  Governor  Cannon  in  his  annual  mes- 
sage to  the  Legislature,  been  carried  into  effect,  the 
whole  trade  and  trafic  of  North  Alabama  and  the 
Tennessee  valley  would  have  fallen  into  the  lap  of 
Randolph,  and  Memphis  would  have  remained  a 
"village  at  the  mouth  of  Wolf"  for  an  indefinite  num- 
ber of  years.  The  age  of  progress,  however,  was 
yet  in  the  womb  of  time.     The  political  prejudice  of 


in  West  Tennessee.  195 

the  day  was,  for  the  most  part,  averse  to  projects  of 
internal  improvement.  For  the  life  and  trade  of 
iEandolph,  it  happened  to  be  in  the  infant  da3'B  of 
Democracy,  when  the  minds  of  the  people  were  be- 
ing educated  in  the  doctrine  of  "strict  construc- 
tion." The  Southern  bias  was  taking  root,  Jack- 
son, Clay,  Crawford  and  Adams  giving  shape  to 
new  parties  founded  uj^on  the  economic  manage- 
ment of  the  government.  Mr.  Monroe,  then  Presi- 
dent, had  elaborated  the  subject  of  the  power  of 
Congress  to  grant  aid  and  foster  works  of  internal 
improvement,  and  took  grounds  against  it.  The 
few  enterprising  men  in  the  Big  Hatchie  country 
had  their  appetites  sharpened  by  the  success  and 
popularity  of  the  subject  along  the  northern  lakes, 
where  canals  were  being  cut.  The  great  Clinton,  of 
the  State  of  I^ew  York,  had  taken  the  "bull  by  the 
horns,"  and  practically  demonstrated  the  utility  and 
advantage  of  such  public  work.  With  like  feelings 
and  enlarged  view^s,  they  regarded  the  example  a 
a  good  one,  and  sought  to  apply  it  to  the  develop- 
ment of  their  own  section.  It  was  no  go,  however. 
The  strict-construction  and  economic  party  thought 
nature  ought  to  take  its  course.  They  thought  it 
best  to  permit  the  Tennessee  river  to  continue  to 
roll  on  in  her  transverse  course,  washing  the 
shores  of  a  higher  latitude,  and  entering  the  Mis- 
sissippi, with  the  waters  of  the  Ohio,  two  hundred 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Hatchie. 

As  a  specimen  of  the  narrow  views  to  which  the 
people  were  being  trained  and  educated  in  those 
days,  in  reference  to  works  of  a  public  character, 


196  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

the  proposition  for  the  construction  of  a  post-road 
from  opposite  Memphis  to  Little  Rock,  amply  illus- 
trates, and  is  referred  to  as  a  part  of  the  history  of 
''  Old  Times." 

Among  the  many  communications  to  the  press  of 
that  period,  I  copy  the  following  from  the  Jackson 
Gazette,  a  newspaper  published  in  Jackson  in  1826. 
It  purports  to  be  from  the  pen  of  one  of  the  lead- 
ing men  of  that  day.     It  begins  thus : 

"Mr.  Printer — In  looking  over  the  last  week's 
Gazette,  I  notice,  with  astonishment  and  surprise,  that 
Congress  has  ordered  a  road  to  be  cut,  at  'public 
expense,  from  the  Village  of  Memphis,  better  known 
as  the  Chickasaw  Bluffs,  on  the  Mississippi  river,  to 
Little  Rock,  in  Arkansas  territory.  The  making  of 
this  new  proposed  road  will  cost  the  United  States 
an  immense  sum  of  money,  and  little  or  no  good  will 
result  from  it  except  it  will  be  to  hold  out  the  idea 
that  Memphis,  like  the  famed  city  after  which  it  is 
named,  is  conspicious  upon  the  general  plan  of  the 
map  of  our  State — an  Indian  trading  post,  at  most, 
insulated  from  Tennessee.  The  minds  of  the 
people  have  become  heated  and  intoxicated  upon  the 
subject  of  internal  improvement.  This  mania  for  in- 
ternal improvement,  I  fear,  will  never  rest  until  it 
has  caused  the  United  States  Treasury  to  be  disgorged 
of  her  last  shilling.  There  are,  in  my  opinion,  such 
things  as  national  sins,  and  though  punishment  to 
individuals  may  be  reserved  to  another  world, 
national  punishment  can  only  be  inflicted  in  this. 
The  evils  we  are  suffering  must  be  put  an  end  to." 

Now,  reader,  what  think  you  was  the  amount  ap- 


in  West  Tmnessee.  197 

propriated  by  Congress,  out  of  the  United  States 
Treasury,  toward  cutting  the  proposed  road?  To 
be  exact,  it  was  eleven  thousand  six  hundred  and 
seventy-four  dollars  and  eighteen  and  three  quarter 
cents.  So  Eandolph,  after  holding  Memphi-j  in 
check  for  fifteen  or  more  years,  lost  her  only  chance 
of  becoming  a  city — the  largest  commercial  cit}^  in 
West  Tennessee. 

The  removal  of  the  Chickasaw  Indians  west  of 
the  Mississippi  river,  and  consequent  bringing  into 
cultivation  the  rich  and  fertile  lands  of  N^orth 
Mississippi,  facilitated  the  birth  of  the  era  of  rail- 
roads to  Memphis,  and  Randolph  waned.  As  Mem- 
phis prospered  Eandolph  declined,  until  her  mer- 
chants and  business  men  drifted  with  the  current  of 
prosperity,  and  landed  at  the  mouth  of  Wolf. 
Bayless,  Bowles,  Smithers,  Stewart,  Laurence, 
Steel,  Booker,  Temple,  Latham,  and  many  others, 
who  did  business  under  the  bluif  at  Randolph, 
changed  the  heading  of  their  ledgers,  and  posted  in 
their  earnings  from  the  bluff  at  Memphis.  Ran- 
dolph as  it  was,  is  now  only  in  name,  and  lives 
alone  in  the  history  of  "  Old  Times  in  the  Big 
Hatcliie  Countr3^" 

The  rich  and  fertile  table  lands  in  the  vicinity  of 
Randolph  early  attracted  men  of  wealth  and  intel- 
ligence.    Among  the  first  was 

JESSEE    BENTON, 

who  settled  below  Randolph,  on  the  Mississippi, 
before  1824,  as  in  that  year  we  find  him  a  candidate 
on  the  Presidential  electoral  ticket  as  a  Crawford 
elector.     Memphis  was  the  nearest  postoflice.     Im- 


198  Reminiscences  of  Old  Tunes 

placaLle,  with  siDgularly  strong  personal  prejudice, 
he  became  a  law  unto  himself,  and  soon  migrated, 
when  menaced  by  settled  neighborhoods,  to  a  more 
frontier  country — Texas.  Uncompromising  in  his 
personal  predilections  and  opinions,  it  is  said  that 
he  was  inexorahle  in  his  enmity  toward  his  brother 
Thomas  H.,  and  General  Jackson.  Many  incidents 
illustrative  of  his  character  are  remembered,  the 
following,  possibly,  the  strongest :  He  had  entrusted 
a  lot  of  stock  to  an  individual  in  whom  he  had  con- 
fidence, to  take  to  Louisiana  and  sell.  Upon  his 
return,  he  reported  that  he  had  been  robbed  on  his 
way  back,  of  the  money.  Benton  rejected  his  story, 
and  required  that  he  produce  the  money  or  suffer 
such  torture  as  he  thought  fit  to  inflict  upon  him. 
He  still  vowed  that  he  had  been  robbed.  The  im- 
placable Benton  did  not,  or  feigned  not  to  believe, 
and  ordered  his  overseer,  with  several  negro  men, 
to  take  hina  across  the  river  to  an  island  and  box 
him  up  in  a  certain  hollow  tree,  and  there  to  be 
kept,  without  food  and  water,  until  he  disgorged  or 
told  the  truth  about  the  money.  They  did  as  he 
commanded — dared  not  do  otherwise.  After  several 
days  he  went  over  to  receive  his  confession,  making 
the  negroes  take  a  cross-cut  saw  along.  The  hollow 
tree  afforded  just  room  enough  for  his  victim  to 
stand  upright.  In  that  position  he  had  been  kept 
more  than  three  daj^s.  Finding  that  he  could  not 
starve  him  out  (for  he  still  held  to  his  same  story), 
he  ordered  a  couple  of  negro  fellows  to  take  hold  of 
tke  saw  and  saw  the  tree  down.  To  work  they 
went,  the  saw  soon  cutting  its  way  into  the  hollow. 


in  West  Tennessee.  199 

The  delinquent,  finding  it  was  Benton's  intention 
not  only  to  saw  the  tree  down  but  to  saw  him  into, 
cried  out,  as  soon  as  the  sharp  teeth  began  to  menace 
his  flesh,  to  hold  on,  that  he  would  tell  all  the  truth. 
With  a  most  pitiable  wail  for  his  life,  he  told  that  he 
had  gone  into  a  gambling  house  in  New  Orleans 
and  lost  all  his  own  money,  and  in  trying  to  get  it 
back  he  had  staked  up  Benton's  money,  and  lost 
that,  and  had  to  work  his  passage  back,  etc.  Ben- 
ton, believing  that  he  had  gotten  the  whole  truth 
out  of  the  fellow,  spared  his  life.  In  the  meantime 
courts  had  been  organized  in. the  county,  and  the 
matter  got  before  the  grand  jury. 

Orvil  Shelby,  a  generous,  kind-hearted,  genial 
companion  and  neighbor,  became  the  owner  of,  and 
fixed  his  place  of  residence  upon,  the  "Benton 
place,"  and  contributed  to  the  interest  and  advance- 
ment of  society  in  and  around  Randolph.     The 

ALSTONS, 

in  whose  veins  coursed  the  best  blood  of  the  "Old 
ISTorth  State,"  established  a  large  plantation  several 
miles  back,  and  became,  by  their  native  courtesy 
and  good  manners,  an  acquisition  to  the  society  of 
the  village  and  vicinity.  They  owned  two  of  the 
best  fiddlers  the  followers  of  Terpsichore  ever 
danced  after — Jim  and  Ossian — father  and  son.  They 
were  the  pupils  of  the  celebrated  Korth  Carolina 
violinist,  Iley  N"unn.  They  played  at  all  the  balls 
in  the  county,  and  were  often  sent  for  to  play  at 
Jackson  and  Brownsville. 

Colonel  Tom  Robertson  lived  a  happy  life  "  up 
on  the  hill,"  the  "latch-string"  of  whose  door  was 


200  •  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

always  on  the  outside.  Generous  and  most  hospi- 
table, full  of  anecdote  and  passionately  fond  of  a 
good  joke,  he  entertained  gloriously.  One  good 
laugh  of  his  would  dispel  the  ennui  of  the  village. 

FRANK    LATHAM 

was  the  pioneer  newspaper  man  of  Tipton.  He 
early  settled  at  Randolph,  and  published  the  Ran- 
dolph Recorder,  a  '^rich,  rare  and  spicey  "  little  sheet, 
whose  editor  was  -most  excellent  good  company. 
Noted  for  his  lively,  personal  character,  with  a  genial 
smile  always  upon  his  ruddy  face,  without  blemish  in 
the  "  social,"  he  was  a  welcome  guest  in  every  house- 
hold. Life  with  Frank  Latham,  in  "  old  times,"  was 
ever  in  the  merry  sunshine.  He  yet  enjoys  life  in 
the  shade  of  venerable  years. 

Randolph  came  in  for  her  share  of  the  Murrell 
excitement,  prevalent  in  those  days.  The  "  Murrell 
Clan"  were  not  myths;  they  were  veritable  men  of 
extraordinary  boldness  and  daring.  They  counted 
their  numbers  by  hundreds,  and  ranged  from  the 
Walnut  Hills,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yazoo,  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Big  Hatchie.  They  held  their  "Grand 
Council "  in  the  deep,  dark  woods  of  the  Mississippi 
bottom,  in  Aakansas,  twelve  or  more  miles  below 
Randolph  and  some  six  miles  from  the  river,  near 
Shawnee  Village.  The  writer  yet  retains  a  lively 
recollection  of  the  many  scenes  and  incidents  of 
that  thrilling  and  eventful  period.  Robbery,  theft 
and  murder  occupied  and  filled  the  minds  and  en- 
gaged the  attention  of  the  people  from  Vicksburg 
to  New  Madrid.  It  was  the  theme  in  the  quiet 
family  circle,  as  well  as  public  talk,  and  the  subject 


171  West  Tennessee.  201 

of  municipal  ordinances  and  regulations.  Every 
town  along  the  river  had  its  vigilant  committee  and 
patrol,  for  the  protection  of  life  and  property.  Ran- 
dolph had  its  vigilant  committee  and  organized 
patrol,  and  every  stranger  that  entered  the  town  and 
neighborhood  was  "spotted "until  his  business  and 
personal  became  satisfactorily  known  to  the  guard- 
ians of  the  town. 

The  Clansmen's  most  usual  place  of  crossing  the 
Mississippi,  was  a  short  distance  below  the  "Benton 
place."  In  tracking  their  way  to  and  from  the 
"  Grand  Council  Tree,"  a  notable  sycamore,  stand- 
ing in  the  tickest  of  the  deep  forest,  towering  above 
all  other  trees — discernible  for  miles  around — a 
beacon  to  guide  the  foot-steps  of  the  Clan  in  gather- 
ing. They  seldom  traveled  over  the  same  trail 
more  than  once,  that  they  might  elude  the  vigil  of 
all  who  were  not  of  their  clan.  The  size  of  the 
"  Council  Tree,"  at  its  base,  equaled  the  notable  In- 
diana sycamore  at  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Pigeon, 
which  is  said  to  measure,  at  its  base,  seventy-five 
feet  around,  and  capable  of  stabling  in  its  capacious 
hollow,  twenty-four  horses  at  a  time.  It  was  at  this 
tree,  and  in  its  great  hollow,  that  John  A.  Murrell 
and  his  Clansmen  met  in  grand  council,  and  formed 
their  dark  plots,  and  concocted  their  hellish  plans. 
Most  of  their  depredations  were  committed  along 
the  river,  and  in  the  night  time.  Seldom  a  night 
passed  at  Randolph  without  the  capture  of  susjn- 
cious  jjersons.  It  is  keenly  remembered  by  the 
writer,  who  was  a  member  of  the  patrol  at  Ran- 
dolph, in  those  "  dark  and  bloody  days,"  that  one 


202  lictiiiniscaices  of  Old  Times 

dark  night  (the    darker    the    night  the   hetter  for 
their  wicked  purposes,  and  the  greater  the  neces- 
sity for  the  patrol   to  be   on  the  alert),  the  patrol 
were  out  on  the  river  front  above   town.     In   the 
dead,  silent  hours  of  the  night,  the  gentle  rippling 
of  the  still  waters  from  the  sharp  prow  of  a  boat 
came  gliding  down  near  the  shore.     The  patrol  had 
taken  a  position  at  the  mouth  of  a  deep  cove,  formed 
by  the  flow  of  the  waters  from  the  high  bluff.     It 
afforded  a  safe  mooring  for  small  boats.     The  sus- 
picious craft  moved  in  close  to  shore,  and  ran  into 
the    cove.     Several    yards   from    the   river's   edge, 
waiting  until  they  had  made  fast  by  running  an  oar 
down  in  the  soft  mud,  when  the   Captain  of  the 
patrol  threw  the  light  from  his   dark  lantern  full 
upon  them,  the   patrol  at  the  same   time  leveling 
their  double  barrels.     Three  stout,  broad-shouldered 
sinners  stood  before  us;  an  old  gray-haired  lark,  and 
two  younger — father  and  his  two    sons.     The  old 
man,  who  stood  in  the  stern  of  the  boat,  dropped 
something  from  his  shoulder  into  the  water  as  soon 
as  discovered.    The  water  being  shallow,  however,  he 
was  required  to  fish  it  up.     It  proved  to  be  a  wallet 
filled  with   burglar's  tools.      They  were  marched 
up  to  the  headquarters  of  the  vigilance  committee, 
and  immediately  put  upon  trial  under  tlie  code  of 
Judge  Lynch.     The  wallet  contained  sufficient  evi- 
dence to  insure  conviction    and  speedy  execution. 
On  account  of  the  gray  hairs  of  the  old  sinner,  and 
youth  of  his  two  sons, the  penalty  was  modified  to 
corporeal  castigation.     They   were  sentenced  to  be 
denuded  of  every  vestige  of  their  clothes,  stretched 


ill  West  Tennessee.  298 

across  a  cotton  bale,  and  striped  with  a  three  and  a 
half  foot  '^cowhide,"  at  intervals,  until  day  began 
to  break,  the  old  man  to  receive  two  licks  to  the 
boys  one.  That  when  day  began  to  dawn,  that  they 
be  taken  to  their  boat,  stark  naked,  tied  hand  and 
foot,  and  fast  to  the  bottom  of  the  boat,  face 
upwards,  gagged,  with  a  placard  posted  upon  their 
foreheads,  written  upon  each,  that  if  "  ever  caught 
again  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  in  Ten- 
nessee, a  twenty-five  pound  bag  of  shot  would  be 
tied  around  their  necks  and  they  become  food  for 
the  catfish;"  the  boat  to  be  carriedout  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  current  and  sent  adrift  without  oars. 
The  sentence  was  fully  executed,  and  their  up-turned 
faces  greeted  the  first  rays  of  the  morning  sun. 

It  was  during  those  bloody  days  that  an  occur- 
rence happened  some  twelve  miles  below  Randolph 
that  shocked  the  whole  country.  A  most  atrocious 
and  diabolical  Avholesale  murder  and  robbery  had 
been  committed  on  the  Arkansas  side.  The  crew 
of  a  flatboat  had  been  murdered  in  cold  blood, 
disemboweled  and  thrown  in  the  river,  and  the  boat- 
stores  appropriated  among  the  perpetrators  of  the 
foul  deed.  The  "Murrell  Clan"  were  charged  with 
the  inhuman  and  devilish  act.  Public  meetings 
were  called  in  diflerent  parts  of  the  countrj^  to 
devise  means  to  rid  the  country  and  clear  the  woods 
of  the  "  Clan,"  and  to  bring  to  immediate  punish- 
ment the  murderers  of  the  flatboatmen.  In  Cov- 
ington a  company  was  formed  to  that  end,  under 
the  command  of  Maj.  Hockley  and  Grandville  D. 
Searcy,  and  one,  also,  formed  in  Randolph,  under 


204  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

the  command  of  Colonel  Orvil  Shelby.  They  met 
at  Randolph  and  organized  into  one  company,  un- 
der command  of  Colonel  Shelby.  A  flatboat, 
suited  to  the  purpose,  was  procured,  and  the  expe- 
dition, consisting  of  some  eighty  or  an  hundred 
men,  well  armed,  with  several  days'  rations,  floated 
out  from  Randolph,  and  down  to  the  landing  where 
the  wholesale  murder  had  been  committed.  Their 
place  of  destination  was  Shawnee  Village,  some  six 
or  moie  miles  from  the  Mississippi,  where  the 
Sheriff  of  the  county  resided.  They  were  firet  to 
require  of  the  Sheriff  to  put  the  offenders  under 
arrest,  and  turn  them  over  to  be  dealt  with  accord- 
ing to  law.  To  Shawnee  Village  the  expedition 
moved  in  single  file,  along  a  tortuous  trail  through 
the  thick  cane  and  jungle,  until  within  a  few  miles 
of  the  village,  when  the  whole  line  was  startled  by 
a  shrill  whistle  at  the  head  of  the  column,  answered 
by  the  sharp  click!  click!  click!  of  the  cocking  of 
the  rifles  in  the  hands  of  the  Clansmen,  in  ambush, 
to  the  right  flank  of  the  moving  file,  and  within  less 
than  a  dozen  yards.    " 

The  chief  of  the  Clan  stepped  out  at  the  head  of 
the  expedition,  and  in  a  stentorian  voice  commanded 
the  expedition  to  halt!  saying: 

"We  have  man  for  man:  move  forward  another 
step  and  a  rifle  bullet  will  be  sent  through  every 
man  under   your  command." 

A  parley  was  had,  when  more  than  man  for  man 
of  the  Clansmen  rose  from  their  hiding  places  in 
the  thick  cane,  with  their  guns  at  a  present.  The 
expedition  had  fallen  into  a  trap;  the  Clansmen  had 


in  West  Tennessee.  205 

not  been  idle  in  finding  out  the  movements  against 
them  across  the  river.  Doubtless  many  of  them 
had  been  in  attendance  at  the  meetings  held  for  the 
purpose  of  their  destruction.  The  movement  had 
been  a  rash  one,  and  nothing  was  left  to  be  done 
but  to  adopt  the  axiom  that  *' prudence  is  the  better 
part  of  valor."  The  leaders  of  the  expedition  were 
permitted  to  communicate  with  the  Sheriff,  who 
promised  to  do  what  he  could  in  having  the  ofl'enders 
brought  to  justice;  but,  alas  for  Arkansas  and 
justice !  the  SheriiF  himself  was  thought  to  be  in 
sympathy  with  the  Clan,  and  the  law  was  in  the 
hands  of  the  Clansmen.  The  expedition  retraced 
their  steps.  Had  it  not  been  so  formidable,  and 
well  known  by  the  Clansmen,  every  member  of  it 
would  have  found  his  grave  in  the  Arkansas  swamp. 
It  was  not  long  after,  when,  through  the  heroism 
of  Virgil  A.  Stewart,  John  A.  Murrell  fell  into  his 
trap,  which  resulted  in  the  Clan  being  scattered, 
and  their  organization  broken  up. 


206  Heminiscences  of  Old  Times 


CHAPTER  X. 

Ltiuderdale  Formed  out  of  Big  Hatchie  Territory — Key 
Corner  Fstablished^  by  Henry  Rutherford,  in  1789 — 
Rutherford  and  Poiier  the  First  Permanent  Settlers — 
David  T.  Porter  the  First  Born — Cole  Creek  Bluffs — In- 
teresting Topographical  Features — Discovery  of  the  Three 
Graves;   Their  History  Worked  out  in  Romance. 

Tipton,  north  of  Hatchie,  together  with  a  slip 
off  the  northwestern  corner  of  Haywood,  and  a 
fair  loaf  off  of  the  southwestern  part  of  Dyer, 
formed  the  present  limits  of  Lauderdale,  which  was 
erected  into  a  county  by  an  act  of  the  Legislature 
in  the  year  1835. 

The  first  magistrates  appointed  for  the  county 
were  Robert  C.  Campbel],  Benjamin  F.  Johnson, 
Jeremiah  Patrick,  Milton  G.  Turner,  John  H.  Max- 
well, Able  H.  Pope,  William  Strain,  Elijah  B. 
Foster,  Henry  Critchiield,  Cristopher  G.  Litsworth, 
Henry  R.  Crawford  and  Henry  R.  Chambers.  They 
met  at  the  house  of  Samuel  Lusk  the  following 
year  (1836),  and  organized  the  first  County  Court, 
electing  Robert  C.  Campbell,  Chairman;  William 
Carigan,  Clerk;  Guy  Smith,  Sheriff;  Isaac  Bradon, 
Coroner;  Samuel  Lusk,  Ranger;  Thomas  Fisher, 
Register;  William  T.  Morehead,  Trustee;  Milton 
G.  Turner,  John  II.  Maxwell,  Able  II.  Pope  and 
Robert    W.    Campbell,    Revenue    Commissioners; 


in  West  'Ihincssce.  207 

Griffeth  L.  Rutherford,  R.  S.  Byru,  Hiram  C.  Keller, 
Henry  R.  Crawford  and  Robert  W.  Campbell,  Com- 
missioners to  sell  the  lots  in  the  newly  established 
county  town,  Ripley. 

The  first  Circuit  Court  was  held  at  the  house  of 
George  Byler,  in  1836,  and  David  Gillilan'd  ap- 
pointed the  first  Clerk.  It  is  not  within  the  limits 
of  the  plan  fixed  by  the  writer  of  these  reminis- 
cences to  treat  of  the  period  when  Lauderdale 
became  an  independent  county.  The  territory 
forming  the  county,  beiog  within  the  limits  of  the 
Big  Hatchie  country  in  "  old  times,"  takes  in  "  Key 
Corner"  and  the  "Cole  Creek  Blufis,"  which  is  not 
more  interesting  for  its  wild  and  romantic  scenery, 
than  bordering  the  famed  hunting  ground  of  Davy 
Crockett,  and  the  many  incidents  in  pioneer  life. 

KEY    CORNER 

dates  its  history  from  the  year  1789.  When  the 
State  of  North  Carolina  meditated  the  transfer  of 
her  territorial  rights  to  the  lands  embraced  within 
the  limits  of  the  present  State  of  Tennessee  to  Con- 
gress, with  a  view  of  its  being  erected  into  a  State, 
certain  owners  of  North  Carolina  land  grants  ob- 
tained the  services  of  Henry  Rutherford,  a  surveyor, 
to  push  forward  west  of  the  Tennessee  river,  upon 
the  lands  then  owned  by  the  Chickasaws,  and  make 
certain  locations.  Rutherford,  organizing  his  sur- 
veying party  on  the  Cumberland,  descended  that 
river  in  the  fall  of  the  year  1789.  Working  their 
way  down  to  the  mouth  of  the  Forked  Deer,  he 
poled  up  that  stream  until  he  struck  the  first  high 
laud,  which  happened  to  be  at  the  point  of  inter- 


208  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

section  of  the  Cole  Creek  Bluffs  with  the  Forked 
Deer  river.  There  he  landed,  and  made  his  first 
mark  upon  a  small  sycamore  tree  in  the  shape  of  a 
key,  which  he  established  as  the  corner  of  his  future 
surveys,  from  w^hich  time  (1789)  it  has  been  known 
as  the  "  Key  Corner"  upon  all  the  maps  of  subse- 
quent surveys. 

In  1819-20,  Henry  Rutherford  and  David  Porter 
found  their  way  down  the  Cumberland  and  up  the 
Forked  Deer,  and  made  a  permanent  settlement  at 
the  ''Key  Corner,"  which  became  the  nucleus  of 
the  first  settlement  on  the  Forked  Deer  river,  which, 
before  the  counties  of  Tipton,  Haywood  and  Dyer 
were  formed,  was  known  as  the  "Key  Corner  Set- 
tlement." Henry  Rutherford  and  David  Porter 
were  among  the  first  prominent  settlers  in  West 
Tennessee,  and  among  the  most  pominent  men. 
The  first  "grist  mill"  was  built  at  "Key  Corner," 
known  as  "  Rutherford's  Mill."  The  first  settlers 
about  Brownsville  sent  their  corn  to  the  "Key  Cor- 
ner" to  be  ground.  Rutherford  was  made  County 
Surveyor,  which  ofiice  he  filled  as  long  as  he  lived, 
preserving  to  the  day  of  his  death,  which  occurred 
but  a  few^  years  ago,  remarkable  good  health,  and  a 
most  wonderful  recollection  of  the  earl}^  incidents  of 
his  life,  and  marked  with  clearness  and  precision  the 
survej^s  made  by  him  more  than  three  score  of  years 
back. 

The  first  child  born  on  the  territory  embraced 
within  the  limits  of  Lauderdale  county,  was 

DAVID    T.    PORTER, 

in  the  year  1820,  at  the  "Key  Corner."     Reared  in 


in  West  Tennessee,  209 

the  house  of  his  birth,  he  is  honored  by  having 
never  lived  un^'vvhere  else.  Like  the  fixedness  and 
stability  of  Rutherford's  sycamore,  he  has  lived 
fifty-three  years  at  the  same  place,  having,  during 
that  time,  resided  in  three  counties  by  continuing 
to  live  at  home.  Prominent  among;  his  neio-hbors, 
and  highly  esteemed  for  his  courage  and  manly 
bearing,  he  was  made  a  Captain  in  the  Confederate 
service,  which  position  he  filled  with  honor. 

John  Flippin  came  from  Knox  county  and  settled 
near  the  "Key  Corner"  in  the  year  1822, and  shared 
with  the  early  pioneers  the  perils  and  hardships  of 
the  wilderness,  and  left  his  name  identified  with  the 
land  of  his  early  adoption  through  his  sons;  the 
most  prominent  of  whom,  Benjamin  M.  Flippin,  is 
yet  living  in  Lauderdale  in  the  vicinity  where  his 
father  first  settled. 

The  Cole  Creek  Blufifs,  beginning  at  the  "Key 
Corner,"  on  the  Forked  Deer,  range  southwest  to 
the  upper  point  of  the  first  Chickasaw  BluflT,  on  the 
Mississippi  river,  a  distance  of  some  fifteen  or  more 
miles,  and  constitute  the  most  interesting  topo- 
graphical features  of  Lauderdale  county.  They 
overlook  that  large  body  of  bottom  land  lying  to 
the  west  and  north — the  land  of  the  many  newly- 
made  hikes — the  famed  hunting-ground  in  "old 
times,"  when  the  screw-cutter  and  Davy  Crockett 
hunted  together,  before  the  rents  and  cracks  pro- 
duced by  the  shakes  of  1811-12  had  all  healed  over. 

It  was  on  the  highest  knob  of  this  range  of  bluffs, 
within  near  distance  of  the  great  Father  of  Waters, 
the  god  of  day,  which  had   been  intensely  bright. 


110  Bemmiscenccs  of  Old  Times 

was  fast  loeing  its  force  upon  tlie  hills,  its  glancing 
rajs  diiFusing  a  gentle  ftiding  crimson  through  the 
yellow-tinted  foliage  of  the  wild-woods,  reflecting 
back  a  bright  golden  luster  from  the  tops  of  the  far 
oft'  trees  to  the  east;  looking  to  the  far  west,  over 
the  tops  of  the  ocean  of  tall  trees  that  shaded  the 
broad  acres  below,  the  eye  no  longer  contracted  by 
the  "sharp  sunbeam,"  the  full  vision  gazed  upon 
one  uniform  glory.  The  lakes  had  received  into 
their  placid  bosom  the  last  lingering  ray  of  the  sun- 
set. 'Way  yonder,  across  the  mighty  river,  the 
flitting  fragment  of  a  cloud,  with  its  purple  edges, 
lingers,  the  fading  luster  of  the  crimson  blending 
until  the  shades  of  night  gain  possession  of  the 
heavens.  How  good  it  was  in  "our  Father  in 
Heaven"  to  give  us  the  "moon  and  stars  to  shine 
by  night;"  how  cheerless  and  gloomy  the  world 
would  have  been  without  them — the  very  thought  of 
black  darkness  makes  one  shudder.  Gloom  and 
ghostly  apparitions  seize  hold  of  his  very  thoughts. 
The  moon  and  stars  never  shone  brighter,  however, 
than  they  did  that  night  on  the  screw-cutter  and  his 
little  hunter  companion.  By  accident  they  had 
pitched  upon  the  loveliest  spot  on  the  blufts,  far 
above  the  gloom  of  the  dark  shades  of  the  deep 
woods  below  them ;  through  the  tops  of  the  tall 
trees  the  eye  penetrated  and  caught  glimpses  of  the 
bright  waters  of  the  lakes  trembling  in  the  silvery 
luster  'neath  the  full  moon  in  mid-heaven.  Upon 
that  lovely  knoll  they  yielded  to  "tired  nature" 
their  first  night  upon  the  Cole  Creek  Bluft>,  in  the 
early  part  of  the  month  of  November,  182 — .    Rolled 


ifi    Wt.-t    Tc)ilU's;^Ct.  211 

up  ill  their  bLinkets,  they  sought  the  "  sweet  restorer, 
balmy  sleep." 

Neither  cloud  nor  displeasure  marred  the  glory  of 
the  mornii]g.  The  gray  streaks  of  the  early  mora 
gave  promise  of  a  fair  day.  Taking  their  morning 
meal — tender  steaks  cut  from  the  loin  of  a  3^earling 
deer  the  screw-cutter  had  shot  down  the  evening 
before — they  wandered  Jiway  to  find  a  spring  of  fresh 
water.  Winding  down  the  high  hill,  they  struck  a 
bright  little  stream  of  running  water,  and  followed 
the  course  of  its  curving  up  a  deep  gorge.  Soon 
the  gorge  narrowed,  barely  allov/ing  room  to  pass 
between  the  branch  and  the  high  overhanging  blutf 
sides.  Going  through  the  narrow  pass,  they  stepped 
into  a  lovely  little  glen  of  several  rods  in  width — a 
most  enchanting  little  spot,  the  margin  of  the  bright 
little  branch  grown  over  with  tall  water-lilies,  em- 
bowered b}^  the  thick  overhanging  foliage  from  the 
steep  hill-sides,  terminating  at  the  head  by  a  per- 
pendicular bluff,  from  under  which  gushed  a  bold 
spring. 

"  See !  see  there !  it's  an  old,  abandoned  hut  in  a 
state  of  decay.  Yes,  it  is  the  remains  of  an  old 
mud  hut,  the  front  and  one  end  crushed  in  by  the 
shivering  of  that  stately  oak;  'twas  a  thunder-bolt 
that  did  it.  Well,  if  this  isn't  a  discovery  in  this 
wild,  uninhabited  countrj^  Halloo!  the  world  is 
coming  to  an  end,  surely.  No,  those  who  once  in- 
habited this  quiet  little  nook  found  their  end;  for, 
as  I  am  alive,  they  are  dead.  Here  is  three  well- 
marked  graves.  One  of  them  seems  old — old  of 
long  standing;    the  other  two  seemingly  of  more 


212  Bouinisccnces  of  Old  Times 

recent  date,  yet  quite  old  enough  for  their  friends, 
if  they  have  any,  to  forget  them;  it  is  so  odd.  Oh! 
that  the  dead  coukl  speak  from  tlieir  long  and  lonely 
resting  place ;  what  a  tale,  perhaps  of  sorrow  and 
tears,  could  be  told  here." 

"  Sit  down  under  the  shadows  of  this  grove  of  elm 
and  oak  by  the  side  of  that  gurgling  spring  of  bright 
water,  and  after  thou  wilt  have  refreshed  thyself, 
let  the  imagination  work  it  out. 

"  Many  years  ago  I  had  a  young  and  fast  friend. 
We  were  in  the  habit  of  hunting  these  woods — 
hunting  down  the  Obion  to  its  mouth,  and  up  Reel- 
foot,  spending  months  in  the  chase  together,"  said 
the  screw-cutter.  "Young,  handsome  and  brave- 
hearted,  I  loved  him  dearly.  The  sight  of  those 
graves  revives  in  me  a  sad  remembrance;  they  bring 
to  mind  what  I  had  well  nigh  forgotten.  Sad  mem- 
ories !  Could  the  living  reunite  the  dry  bones  be- 
neath those  little  hillocks  and  clothe  them  in  the 
freshness  of  youth,  what  a  tale  of  romance  could 
be  told  of  these  woods.  Enough  is  remembered, 
however,  to  remove  the  mystery  that  hangs  over 
them. 

"  On  the  occasion  of  our  last  hunt  in  these  woods 
we  had  been  out  several  weeks.  My  hunting  com- 
panion became  strangely  afflicted  for  a  hunter. 
After  our  morning  meal,  he  would  take  his  gun 
and  be  gone  all  day,  returning  to  the  camp  after 
nightfall  happy  and  gay,  without  reporting  the  kill- 
ing of  any  game.  In  answer  to  inquiries  as  to  his 
day's  hunt,  he  would  express  himself  the  happiest 
man  in  the  world,  giving  a  most  glowing  description 


in 


West  Tennessee.  213 


of  a  beautiful  lake  he  had  discovered  some  three  or 
four  hours'  walk  from  the  camp. 

"A  more  noble  fellow  or  braver  hunter  never 
shouldered  a  rifle.  He  became  a  maniac.  Those 
graves  must  have  had  something  to  do  with  his 
going  crazy.  The  lake  we  got  a  glimpse  of  last 
night  is  doubtless  the  same  he  was  so  fond  of  talk- 
ing about. 

"  The  story  is  a  long  one,  I  will  tell  it  as  we  go 
along.     We  must  go  back  to  our  horses  now." 

They  started  back  to  their  horses,  continuing  the 
narrative  as  they  went  along. 

"My  hunting  companion  returned  to  camp  one 
night  more  thoughtful  than  usual,  expressing  him- 
self tired  of  the  hunt,  and  urged  that  we  break  up 
camp.  We  had  killed  more  bear  than  we  could 
well  pack  away;  beside,  the  hunt,  from  the  turn 
of  mind  my  young  friend  had  taken,  had  pretty 
much  lost  its  interest.  We  ended  the  hunt  and 
returned  to  the  settlement.  We  separated.  He 
returned  to  his  home.  He  lived  with  an  aged 
mother  near  the  Madrid  settlement. 

"  When  the  next  hunting  season  came  round  he 
did  not  join  us.  It  was  a  year  after  before  we  met 
again.  Wild  and  uncontrollable,  he  had  abandoned 
himself  to  the  wild  haunts  in  the  woods.  It  was  in 
the  woods  that  we  met.  He  threw  his  arms  around 
me,  embracing  me  with  the  fond  affection  of  a 
brother,  shedding  teare  as  a  child.  The  scenes  when 
last  we  had  been  together  seemed  to  haunt  him. 
The  burden  of  his  wild  talk  was  of  the  beautiful 
lake  and  his  lovely '  White  Lily. '    I  carried  him  home 


214  Itcm'umcences  of  Old  Times 

to  Lis  old  mother.  He  neither  ate  nor  slept.  I  re- 
mained with  him  until  he  died. 

"After  his  death  his  old  mother  took  from  an  old 
secretary  a  roll  of  papers.  Handing  them  to  me, 
she  said: 

"'Victor's  last  request,  before  he  lost  his  mind, 
was  that  after  his  death  I  should  hand  these  papers 
to  you ;  that  they  would  unravel  a  mystery.' 

"  Thus  the  story  runs : 

" '  Curious  to  examine  the  sunk  lakes,  lower  down 
from  where  our  camp  was  pitched,  I  had  walked 
several  hours  in  a  southern  direction,  when  I  came 
upon  a  beautiful  open  lake,  the  loveliest  I  had  dis- 
covered in  the  bottom.  I  struck  the  head  of  it, 
from  which  point  I  obtained  a  full  view  of  its  length 
and  size.  Tray-shaped,  it  was  longer  than  it  was 
broad — perhaps  three  or  more  miles  long.  Like 
most  lakes,  it  was  shalloAv  around  the  margin,  getting 
deeper  in  the  middle;  judging  from  its  being  open 
in  the  middle,  and  other  appearances,  deeper  than 
the  tallest  of  surrounding  forest  trees.  It  beirg  free 
from  undergrowth  and  fallen  timbers  along  the  mar- 
gin, I  strolled  around  it.  In  passing  along,  my 
attention  was  attracted  by  the  fish  darting  from  near 
the  shore  into  deep  water.  The  lake  seemed  to  be 
alive  with  them. 

"  '  Coming  to  a  shady  spot,  where  a  large  tree  had 
blown  up,  falling  over  the  lake,  its  strong  roots  hold- 
ing it  suspended  over  the  surface  of  the  water,  I 
halted  to  rest.  Setting  my  gun  by  the  roots,  I 
walked  out  on  it  several  feet  from  the  shore  and  lay 
down  upon  its  huge  trunk.     My  attention  was  soon 


in  West  Tennessee.  215 

attracted  to  a  clump  of  tall  water-lilies  growing  in 
the  water  near  the  shore,  by  the  jumping  and  floun- 
dering of  the  fish;  so  charmed  with  the  countless 
numbers  of  the  tinny  tribe  darting  through  the 
clear  sunny  spots  upon  the  bright  surface  of  the 
water,  passing  to  and  fro  among  the  lilies,  that  I 
must  have  been  there  an  hour  or  more  when  the 
sound  of  a  gentle  rippling  of  the  waters,  rapidly 
approaching  from  behind  me,  arrested  my  attention. 
Without  rising  from  my  reclining  position,  I  turned 
my  head  and  eyes  full  upon  the  loveliest  form  in  human 
flesh  I  ever  beheld — a  vounff  woman  standing:  erect 
in  a  trim  little  canoe,  driving  its  sharp  prow  swiftly 
over  the  surface  of  the  placid  water.  So  great  was 
my  amazement  that  I  felt  transfixed  to  the  log. 
Her  long  golden  hair  thrown  back  upon  her  shoul- 
ders, her  head  uncapped ;  fair  as  a  lily,  and  fresh  as 
a  new-born  rose,  she  was  a  very  picture  of  female 
beauty  and  loveliness  just  budding  into  womanhood. 
Looking  neither  to  the  right  nor  left,  her  eyes  fixed 
upon  the  clump  of  water  lilies,  she  gently  raised  her 
long  slender  paddle  out  of  the  water,  the  sharp 
bow  of  her  little  boat  gliding  in  among  them.  Slie 
had  not  observed  me,  so  intently  were  her  eyes 
peering  down  into  the  clear  water.  Schools  of  the 
bright  scaly  tribe  closed  in  around  her,  flouncing 
and  cutting  up  all  sorts  of  finny  antics.  Running 
her  long  paddle  down  in  the  soft  mud  to  steady  her 
little  boat,  intent  alone  upon  the  object  of  her  mis- 
sion, she  stooped  forward,  her  long  golden  locks 
falling  over  her  face.  She  seated  herself  in  the 
bottom  of  her  frail  little  craft,  burying  her  head 


216  Reminiseences  of  Old  Times 

among  the  tall  lilies,  humming  in  a  soft  musical 
strain,  as  in  converse  with  the  countless  numbers  of 
iish  that  gathered  around  her.  There  she  remained, 
feeding  and  chanting  to  her  little  lake  companions, 
within  a  rod  of  me. 

" '  Mj  eyes,  from  gazing  so  intently  upon  such  a 
dazzling  beauty,  began  to  grow  blind.  I  expected 
every  moment  that  the  loud  beating  of  my  heart 
would  arrest  her  attention.  In  such  a  delirium  of 
delight  and  amazement,  I  felt  pinned  fast  to  the 
tree.  The  opportunity,  however,  was  favorable  for 
rising  from  my  recumbent  position.  In  an  instant 
I  was  upon  my  feet,  as  yet  wholly  unobserved  by  the 
fair  queen  of  the  lake. 

" '  Getting  through  with  her  little  charities  and  talk 
with  her  finny  companions,  now  and  then  running 
her  long  white  hand  under  the  clear  water,  the 
little  silvery-sided  tribe  gathering  around  it,  and 
passing  through  her  long  tapering  fingers,  bidding 
them  good-bye  for  the  evening,  she  arose  to  her 
feet,  and  we  stood  face  to  face.  The  excited  amaze- 
ment which  had  held  me  spell-bound,  had  began 
to  pass  off".  It  came  her  time  to  exhibit  surprise 
and  amazement.  Throwing  her  large,  clear,  blue 
eyes  foil  upon  me,  raising  both  of  her  hands,  throw- 
ing back  her  long,  yellow  tresses,  she  imploringly 
said:  'Who!  and  what  are  you  land  why  are  you 
here?' 

"*Her  manner  was  bewitchingly  earnest.  In 
words  as  gentle  and  soothing  as  possible,  I  replied: 

^'^I  am  a  hunter,  and  came  in  these  woods  to 
hunt;  that  in  rambling  about  in  the  woods,  I  came 


in  West  Tennessee.  217 

upon  this  lake,  and  was  attracted  to  this  enchanting 
spot,  where  I  have  been  for  hours,  amusing  myself 
with  the  movements  of  the  numerous  beautiful  fish 
passing  to  and  fro  among  the  tall  lilies.'  Having 
replied  to  her  two  pointed  questions,  I  then  asked  her 
to  tell  me  who  she  was,  and  why  she  was  alone  upon 
this  beautiful  lake  in  the  wild-woods?' 

'''Who  I  am,  I  beg  you  will  not  inquire,  or  seek 
to  know.  I  am  here  to  feed  and  commune  with  my 
little  lake  companions,  where  I  have  not  failed  to  be 
since  my  childhood.  I  beg  that  you  will  ask  me  no 
more  questions,  or  seek  to  find  me  out,  and  that 
you  will  not  again  come  to  this  lake,'  her  voice  soft- 
ening and  becoming  more  subdued  as  she  finished 
speaking,  still  keeping  her  large  blue  eyes  in  a  fixed 
gaze  upon  me. 

" '  I  begged  that  she  would  not  lay  upon  me  such  a 
burden,  or  to  seal  my  lips  against  nature's  ardent 
promptings.  That  I  would  have  to  be  more  than 
human  to  abide  her  biddings.  That  it  was  asking 
more  than  the  human  heart  could  stand. 

'"In  what  have  I  put  upon  you  more  than  is 
human  to  bear?'  she  said,  her  voice  still  softening. 

"'Why,  in  requiring  that  I  shall  not  seek  to  know 
you,  or  find  you  out,  now  that  I  have  seen  you;  that 
we  have  met  and  spoken,  that  I  know  these  woods 
contain  one  so  beautiful  and  lovely,  the  thing  you 
ask  is  impossible.' 

" '  Then  you  will  destroy  all  the  pleasures  I  have 

in  life.      I  can  come  to  these  enchanting  waters 

no  more.     I  will  never  see  and  commune  with  my 

little  lake  companions  any  more,'  said  she,  a  soft, 

10 


218  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

sorrowing  gloom  suffusing  her  sweet  face  as  she 
pronounced  the  last  words. 

"*I  then  asked  her  to  answer  me  a  few  more  ques- 
tions; whether  she  had  parents,  or  whether  she  was 
alone  in  the  wild  forest. 

" '  Mother  I  have  not;  I  know  nothing  of  a  mother, 
I  have  an  old  father  who  is  good  to  me;  I  love  and 
honor  him  above  all  things  except  my  Bible.  I 
have  promised  him,  and  he  exacts  the  promise  to  be 
renewed  every  year,  that  I  will  decline  the  acquaint- 
ance of  all  persons;  that  the  time  will  come,  and 
soon  enough,  when  I  will  know  of  the  world  and  a 
new  life,  but  not  until  after  his  death.' 

" '  Have  you  ever  met  with  any  one  in  these  woods 
before  ? '  I  inquired. 

"'ISTever;  you  are  the  first  and  only  man  I  ever 
saw,  save  my  old  father.  From  him  I  have  learned 
much.  I  have  read  much  of  the  world.  I  read 
from  my  Bible  that  the  world  is  full  of  sin,  and 
man  is  desperately  wicked.'  All  the  while  she  had 
not  taken  her  eyes  from  me.  She  seemed  charmed 
by  the  first  specimen  of  young  flesh  in  human  form. 
With  softened  tone  of  expression  she  seemed  willing 
to  prolong  the  interview. 

"  'I  said  to  her  that  the  wild-woods  was  my  home, 
my  companions  were  my  dogs  and  my  gun,  young 
and  full  of  warm  impulses;  that  in  her  limited 
knowledge  of  the  world,  as  derived  from  books,  she 
knew  but  little  of  the  human  heart.  That  she,  like 
myself,  had  a  heart  full  of  generous,  loving  im- 
pulses; that  from  the  Bible  she  had  read  that  man 
and  woman  were  made  tor  each  other,  and  to  make 


in  West  Teimessce:  219' 

one  another  happy,  and  that  it  was  not  go^jd  to  be 
'alone  in  the  world.' 

" '  Yes,  the  Bible  reads  that  way.  We  read  of  the 
first  man  and  the  first  woman  in  the  garden.  We 
read  that  they  were  happy  nntil  a  knowledge  of  the 
world  brought  sin.' 

"'Imploringly  I  asked  that  I  might  talk  with  her 
when  she  came  as-ain  to  hold  converse  with  her 
lake  companions.  I  promised  that  I  ivould  then 
abide  whatever  her  decision  might  be.  Before  she 
had  spoken,  I  read  in  her  melting  blue  eyes  her 
answer.  She  replied,  'I  promise.'  With  the  word 
ringing  in  my  ears,  she  shoved  her  little  bark  out 
in  the  deep  water  and  shot  across  the  lake.  I  stood 
gazing  upon  her  receding  form  until  it  was  lost  to 
view  in  the  thick  foliage  overhanging  the  margin 
of  the  lake  on  the  opposite  shore. 

" '  The  next  da}^  I  was  at  the  lake  long  hefore  the 
hour  of  her  coming.  I  lingered  around  the  en- 
chanting spot  of  our  meeting  the  previous  day. 
Prompt  in  coming,  I  kept  out  of  her  view  until  she 
should  have  gotten  through  with  her  pleasing,  self- 
imposed  duties.  I  could  but  observe  that  when 
approaching  the  lilies,  she  raised  those  large  blue 
eyes  and  took  in  a  survey  on  land.  I  was  greatly 
encouraged  to  hope.  After  she  had  gotten  through 
with  the  scaly  tribe  (she  seemed  more  hurried  than  on 
the  eveningbefore),  she  rose  to  her  feet,  when  I  discov- 
ered myself  to  her.'  She  came  upon  shore,  extending 
her  hand.  We  strolled  down  the  lake  shore  in  the 
silent  wood.  We  talked  of  a  new  life,  and  whis- 
pered love  to  each  other.     Upon  the  silent  shores 


220  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

of  the  ^Lake  of  fhe  Lilies'  we  plighted  our  love, 
with  a  '  promise '  that  I  should  visit  her  old  father 
at  his  secluded  dwelling-place  the  next  day. 

"'At  the  appointed  hour  the  next  day  we  met  on 
the  opposite  shore  of  the  lake.  A  short  walk 
through  the  dark  forest  brought  us  to  a  deep  ravine 
winding  up  in  the  hills,  through  which  flowed  a 
bright  little  rippling  brook.  Eeaching  the  head 
of  it  the  banks  became  bluff,  deeply  shaded  over 
by  the  thick  foliage  of  the  giant  forest  overhead. 
From  under  the  bluff"  gushed  a  bold  spring.  The 
old  trapper  hermit  was  seated  before  the  door  of 
his  mud  hut.  As  we  approached  he  rose  to  his  feet 
with  the  dignity  and  true  politeness  of  an  old  time 
gentleman,  his  long  silvery  locks  falling  down  over 
his  broad  shoulders,  with  snow  white  beard  cover- 
ing his  well-formed  chest.  He  extended  his  hand 
to  me,  sa3dng: 

" '  The  White  Lily,  my  daughter,  the  light  of  my 
life,  has  told  me  all.  It  is  only  that  which  I  most 
feared,  and  possibly  had  a  right  to  expect.  Her 
young  life  knows  nothing  of  sorrow  or  disappoint- 
ment; mastering  all  the  studies  and  knowledge  I 
was  able  to  teach  or  capable  of  imparting,  yet  she 
is  ignorant  of  the  world  and  a  stranger  to  sin. 

" '  For  fifteen  years  she  has  been  the  light  and  life 
of  an  old  man,  who  lives  a  trespasser  upon  many 
years  beyond  the  period  allotted  to  man  upon  earth. 
It  is  not  surprising  that  her  ardent  young  nature, 
loving  as  it  is,  should  have  accepted  the  heart  and 
hand  of  young  flesh,  one  like  yourself,  who  seem 
the   gentleman,  though   a   hunter.      I   am   only  a 


171  West  Tennessee.  221 

trapper ;  I  huve  faith  that  you  are  a  true  man,  and 
will  make  her  a  good  husband.  My  age  forbids  that 
I  should  oppose  her  wishes ;  I  fear  to  risk  doing  her 
an  injustice;  I  have  been  to  her  a  good  guardian 
and  father.' 

" '  Taking  her  hand  and  putting  it  in  mine,  he  bade 
us  to  kneel  before  him.  Laying  a  hand  upon  each 
of  our  heads  he  said : 

" '  Receive  the  blessing  of  the  old  trapper  Nichol. 
Two  months  and  four  days  from  to-day  will  be  my 
ninety-fourth  birthday.  On  that  day,  which  will  be 
my  last,  I  will  take  the  White  Lily,  the  light  and 
life  of  my  last  day,  to  the  settlement  at  Madrid ;  be 
there,  and  she  becomes  your  wife.  Until  then,  upon 
the  pain  of  your  losing  her,  come  not  to  this  place 
again.' 

" '  So  long !  two  months  and  four  days;  permit  me 
to  come  for  her,'  says  L 

'"No  !  you  are  the  only  person  who  has  visited  this 
place  or  seen  me  in  these  woods,  or  the  White  Lily 
since  I  first  saw  3^on  spring,  now  more  than  fift}^- 
seven  years  ago,  save  him  whose  remains  lie  'neath 
that  moss-covered  grave  at  the  end  of  this  cabin  and 
the  young  w^oman  who  shall  be  your  prize  for  keep- 
ing away.     Let  it  be  so.' 

"'With  his  last  words,  'shall  be  your  prize  for 
keeping  away,'  I  turned  to  join  her  at  the  spring, 
and  the  old  trapper  disappeared  in  his  dark  hat. 
Our  last  hour  upon  the  green  velvet  moss  by  the 
side  of  the  rippling  brook  was  as  a  love  dream — a 
delirium  of  blissful  delight. 

'"Two  months  and  four  days — sixty-four  days  to 


^ 


222  Rcmnisccnecs  of  Old  '1  bites 

wait!  Had  it  been  a  sentence  to  the  scafibld,  time 
would  have  been  craved;  but — well,  I  have  to  wait. 
The  two  months  came  round;  but  the  four  days  and 
four  long  nights — each  day  seemed  a  month,  and 
the  last  of  the  four  I  thought  would  never  pass.  I' 
seemed  as  though  the  sun  would  never  reach  noon- 
tide; that,  as  in  the  days  of  Joshua,  it  had  been 
bidden  to  stand  still. 

"'The  two  months  and  four  days  had  passed.  I 
stood  upon  the  bluff  at  the  place  appointed  for  me 
to  receive  the  object  of  love — the  sole  absorbing 
object  of  m^^  heart's  affection.  With  lengthened 
vision  my  eyes  kept  watch  to  get  the  first  glimpse  of 
the  old  trapper,  with  the  'light  of  his  life,'  as  they 
should  hove  in  sight  below.  Hour  after  hour  I  stood, 
and  not  an  object  came  in  sight  upon  the  broad 
waters  of  the  great  river.  With  straining  eyes  I 
stood  alone  npon  the  bank  looking  down  the  reach, 
until  with  heavy  heart  I  turned  my  face  from  the 
waters,  when  the  eye  could  no  longer  penetrate 
through  the  darkness  of  the  night.  On  the  bank  I 
walked — walked  all  night,  with  ear  sharpened  to 
catch  the  sound  of  the  oars'  stroke.  I^one  came, 
and  broad  daylight  found  me  with  eyes  still  open 
]5eering  down  the  river.  In  the  agony  of  my  soul 
I  stepped  into  the  first  boat  and  pushed  off  to  meet 
them.  Down  I  rowed,  on  I  pulled ;  never  did  skiff" 
glide  over  water  faster.  Glancing  at  every  turn 
back  over  my  shoulder  to  get  a  sight  of  their  com- 
ing, I  relaxed  not  a  stroke  of  the  oar  until  night 
came  upon  me. 

"'Reaching  the  point  of  landing  the  nearest  to 


in  West  Tennessee.  223 

the  old  trapper's  hut  as  the  morning  sun  rose  over 
the  high  point  of  the  first  Chickasaw  Bluff,  I  bounded 
awa}^  for  the  '  Lake  of  the  Lilies.'  I  easily  found 
my  way  to  the  old  trapper's  hut.  Casting  from 
me  the  gloomy  spell  which  had  bound  me  for  the 
past  twenty-four  hours,  doubting  not  that  ought  else 
than  the  whim  and  caprice  of  an  old  man  who  felt 
that  he  was  parting  with  the  light  and  life  of  his 
last  daj^s  detained  her,  I  moved  up  the  sparkling 
branch  with  new  life. 

*' '  Reaching  the  hut,  the  door  was  closed.  Signs  of 
life  had  departed  in  every  direction  the  eye  turned. 
There  was  no  smoke  curling  up  from  the  broad 
throat  of  the  cabin — gloom  and  desolation  seized 
hold  of  my  senses.  With  dread  awe,  I  stood  at  the 
door  of  the  hut,  with  hand  raised  to  rap,  when  my 
eyes  fell  upon  a  newly-made  grave  by  the  side  of 
the  ancient  moss-covered  one.  Overwhelmed  with 
a  presentiment  of  woe,  I  leaned  heavily  against  the 
door,  when  it  swung  open,  upon  its  heavy  grating- 
hinges,  exposing  to  view  the  lifeless  form  of  the 
old  Trapper.  Dead,  dead,  dead!  Half  alive  I  lay 
upon  the  door  step.  A  voice  from  'neath  the  fresh 
clod  ringing  through  my  ears,  dead,  dead,  dead! 
Staggering,  I  arose,  and  strode  to  the  spring,  the 
still  voice  following — tingling  in  my  ears,  penetra- 
ting to  the  soul,  dead,  dead,  dead!  More  dead  than 
alive,  I  fell  upon  the  green  moss,  where  last  we  had 
talked  and  dreamed  in  a  wild  delirium  of  bliss  and 
happiness.  'Twas  here  she  had  grown  up,  and 
enjoyed  the  early  fruits  of  her  young  life — here, 
under  the  shades  of  the  overhanging  foliage,  now 


224  Bemmiscences  of  Old  Times 

drooping  in  silent  sorrow,  shedding  their  virgin 
tears  upon  her  newly-made  grave.  Up  yonder  hill- 
side, she  frisked  and  frolicked,  with  the  young 
morning,  blythe  and  gay  as  a  young  May  lamb. 
Oh!  life,  even  in  spring  time,  thou  art  but  'a  poor 
pensioner  upon  the  bounties  of  an  hour.'  For 
hours  I  lay  as  in  a  dream,  living  life  over  again. 
It  all  seemed  wrapped  up  in  a  few  days  of  the  near 
past;  fortune  I  had  none;  the  light  and  promise  of 
the  future  had  gone;  vacancy,  broad  sterile  vacancy, 
loomed  up  before  m.e.  It  had  taken  the  place  of 
all  that  was  lovely.  I  had  aught  now  to  live  for. 
Xear  me  the  gurgling  waters  arose  from  beneath 
the  high  bluff,  playing  with  the  bright  sunbeam  as 
they  rippled  past  in  their  silvery,  winding  course 
down  the  gorge.  I  arose,  and  bathed  my  feverish 
temples  in  the  cool  refreshing  waters,  and  went  to 
the  cabin,  to  put  away  the  old  Trapper,  in  remem- 
brance of  her,  and  because  she  loved  and  honored 
him.  He  lay  as  though  he  had  died  under  a 
Christian  hand;  every  limb  in  its  proper  place,  his 
head  resting  upon  a  roll  of  rare  furs,  his  hands 
clasped  across  his  broad  chest,  in  one  a  small  slip 
of  paper,  upon  which  was  written:  'Bury  my 
body  by  the  side  of  the  newly-made  grave,  where 
sleeps  the  light  of  my  life — April  4,  — .'  Signed 
Nichol.  The  light  of  his  life  had  gone  before  him. 
He  died  on  his  ninety-fourth  birthday — the  day  of 
his  appointment. 

"'Near  him,  on  a  rude  table,  lay  a  roll  of  manu- 
script. On  the  outer  side  was  written:  'For  the 
affianced  of  the  'White  Lily.'    Here,  then,  is  the 


in  West  Tennessee.  225 

mistery.  Oh!  manhood,  why  hast  thou  forsaken 
me?  I  was  ouce  called  when  in  the  chase,  ^Victor, 
the  lion-hearted.'  I  am  no  longer  the '  lion-hearted.' 
The  soft  illurements  of  woman's  love  has  won  the 
victory — the  grave  has  become  the  victor,  and  left 
its  sting — the  barbed  arrow  corroding  in  my  bleed- 
ing soul.  But  the  mistery.  We  will  read  it  after 
putting  the  old  man  away. 

FROM  NICHOLS'  MANUSCRIPT. 

"  On  the  fourth  day  of  April,  should  I  be  Hving, 
I  will  have  lived  to  see  my  ninety-fourth  birthday, 
and  for  more  than  fifty-seven  years  I  have  lived  a 
trapper  hermit,  in  this  hut. 

"On  my  twenty-sixth  birthday  I  married  with 
a  lovely  English  woman,  the  daughter  of  a  British 
oiBcer,  stationed  on  Lake  Erie.  She  was  fair  and 
rosey,  gentle  in  disposition,  and  free  from  guile.  My 
love  for  her  knew  no  bounds.  "We  had  been  mar- 
ried four  years,  when  I  carried  her  and  our  only 
child,  a  daughter,  our  darling  little  Marie,  to  stay 
with  her  father  at  Fort  Pitt,  until  my  return  from  a 
fur-hunting  expedition  on  the  upper  lakes.  I  had 
expected  to  be  gone  but  one  winter.  Fortune  did 
not  favor  us,  however,  and  we  were  absent  two 
years.  During  that  time  the  war-whoop  was  raised 
on  the  lakes — the  Pontiac  war  broke  out,  of  which 
we  had  heard  nothing,  until  on  our  way  back,  at 
Green  Bay.  I  had  a  presentiment,  foreboding  evil 
to  my  wife  and  child,  and  neither  ate  or  slept 
until  I  reached  the  fort.  Too  truly  had  been  my 
fears  and  misgivings.  Both  wife  and  child  were 
butchered  and  scalped  by  the  ruthless  savage. 


226  Beminiscmces  of  Old  Times 

"I  remembered  nothing  more  from  the  day  of 
my  arrival  in  the  fort  until  some  four  months  after, 
when  I  found  myself  under  the  treatment  of  the 
kind  physician  of  the  fort.     When  I  was  sufficiently 
recovered  to  be  permitted  to  leave  the  fort,  I  met 
with  a  warm  friend  and  companion.    We  had  messed 
together  and  slept  under  the  same  blanket  during 
our  two  winters  on  the  upper  lakes.     He  knew  of 
my  deep  affliction  and  sympathized  with  me,  advis- 
ing that  I  leave  the  scenes  of  the  lake  and  go  south 
to  Louisiana.     I  agreed — would  have  agreed  to  have 
gone  with  him  anywhere,  as  for  myself  I  cared  not 
which  way  it  was.     We  soon  were  ready  with  a 
good  boat  and  requisite  outfit  for  the  trip.     Reach- 
ing the  Mississippi  we  soon  passed  the  mouth  of 
the  Ohio.      It  was  in  the  month  of  August,  the 
weather  very  hot,  and  the  water  bad  to  drink.     My 
friend  took  sick  and  was  getting  worse  every  day. 
Reaching  the  first  high  bluff  after  many  days  drift- 
ing, we  stopped  to  find  good  water,  and  a  cool, 
shady  place,  intending  to  remain  until  cool  weather 
before  proceeding  on  down  the  river.     After  many 
hours'  search  I  found  this  spring  of  delightful  water 
in  this  cool,  shady  nook  in  the  woods.      Return- 
ing to  the  boat,  my  friend  being  just  able  to  walk 
out  to  it,  I  went  to  work  and  packed  out  our  tra{)S 
and  things.     He  drank  heartily  of  the  cool  water 
that  evening  and  felt  greatly  refreshed.      In   the 
morning  he  felt  much  better.     Before  noon,  how- 
ever, he  was  taken  with  a  chill  and  died  in  it.     I 
buried  him  where  he  died,  and  built  this  hut  by  the 
side  of  his  ^rave,  resolved  never  to  leave  it  while 


in  West  Tennessee.  227 

life  lasted.  Here  I  have  lived,  and  alone  during 
the  first  forty  odd  years,  occasionally  taking  a  trip 
up  the  river  to  dispose  of  my  furs  and  lay  in  needed 
supplies.  I  trapped  it  up  the  Obion,  indeed  up  all 
the  water  courses,  and  through  the  hottom  for  thirty 
miles  up  the  river.  At  home  in  the  v^oods,  I  only 
returned  to  my  hut  v^hen  my  wallet  became  ex- 
hausted. 

"I  witnessed  many  of  the  wonderful  freaks  of 
nature  in  those  awful  days  of  eartliquakes  and 
shakes.  During  the  worst  of  it  I  had  gone  up  the 
Obion,  roaming  through  the  bottom  in  search  of 
beaver  sign.  My  attention  was  arrested  by  a  rumb- 
ling noise.  At  first  I  thought  it  the  approach  of  a 
storm  or  big  wind.  Soon  the  sound  seemed  to  be 
everywhere,  and  from  the  bowels  of  the  earth  it 
became  fearful.  I  tried  to  gather  in  my  thoughts 
and  fix  in  my  mind  what  to  look  for.  When  the 
ground  upon  which  I  stood  began  to  tremble,  heave 
and  shake  Avith  terrific  violence,  the  vibrations  be- 
coming quicker  and  more  terrible,  until  it  became 
impossible  to  stand  upon  my  feet  without  holding 
on  to  the  small  trees  around  me.  I  knew  not  which 
way  to  tarn  or  whither  to  go  for  safety.  The  giant 
forest  around  and  over  me  swayed  and  groaned, 
clashing  and  crashing  their  great  laps,  keeping  time 
with  the  undulating  movement  of  the  earth  in  which 
they  were  rooted.  Soon  the  earth  began  to  quake, 
and  crack  around  and  beneath  where  I  was  stand- 
ing. In  the  wildest  confusion  it  began  to  break  and 
open  before  me,  then  to  sink,  sink,  sink,  carrying 
down  with  it  a  great  park  of  trees,  until  the  tops  of 


228  'Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

the  tallest  among  them  dropped  out  of  sight.  In 
awe  and  wonderment  I  stood  reeling  as  one  drunk 
with  wine,  and  witnessed  the  birth  of  Reelfoot 
Lake. 

"  My  boat !  I  had  left  it  in  a  nook,  near  the  Obion. 
Fearing  to  lose  it,  I  made  for  it  in  quick  haste.  The 
waters  had  ebbed  from  it,  leaving  it  high  and  dry. 
Soon,  however,  the  flow  returned,  with  the  violence 
of  a  mountain  torrent.  Lashing  it  to  a  small  tree, 
I  succeeded  in  keeping  it  from  being  '  swamped.' 
The  waters  becoming  sufficiently  quiet,  I  rowed 
down  the  mouth,  passing  out  with  the  flow  of  the 
waters,  which  had  filled  the  whole  bottom  many 
feet.  In  passing  up  the  gorge,  to  my  hut,  I  found 
that  my  spring  branch  had  gone  drj^  On  reaching 
the  spring,  the  first  thing  noticeable  was  a  fearful 
rent  in  the  blufi:',  reaching  down  below  the  spring- 
bed,  and  not  a  drop  of  water  in  it.  '  Confusion 
worse  confounded'  seemed  spread  out  all  over  the 
land.  Openings  appeared  as  by  magic  from  the  high 
hills  to  the  great  Father  of  Waters,  many  newly- 
formed  lakes  had  been  created  in  close  proximity  to 
my  heretofore  seemingly  safe  and  quiet  dwelling- 
place.  The  loss  of  my  spring!  I  had  begun  to 
thirst,  and  water  was  not  to  be  had  nearer  than  the 
newly-made  lakes.  I  had  begun  to  think  of  the 
necessity  of  finding  a  new  place  of  abode,  when  the 
earth  began  to  tremble  and  quake  again,  the  air 
soon  becoming  sufi*used  with  a  sulphuerous  smell. 
I  sat  in  my  cabin  and  waited  the  terrible  pending 
resLilts,  when  I  noticed  the  hurried  flow  of  black 
muddy    water    leaping   down    the    spring   branch, 


ill  West  Tennessee.  229 

sweeping  aucl  bending  the  herbage  and  small  under- 
growth in  its  angry  surging  course.  Having  lost  all 
personal  fear  midst  the  terrible  freaks  of  the  earth 
and  water  around  me,  I  arose,  and  walked  to  the 
spring,  to  witness  the  changes  going  on.  The  deep 
split  in  the  bluff  had  closed  up  as  though  under  the 
power  of  a  great  battering-ram.  Black  muddy 
water  was  gushing  up  through  the  spring  and  all 
around  it,  emitting  a  most  disagreeable  odor.  Soon 
the  flow  of  water  began  to  decrease  and  get  clear ; 
before  night-fall  my  spring  had  resumed  its  ancient 
regime. 

"  The  next  morning  I  had  gone  to  the  river  to  look 
after  m}^  boat;  while  standing  upon  the  bank,  I 
noticed  a  boat  drifting  in  the  current.  Rowing  out 
to  it,  I  was  amazed  beyond  fitting  language  to  ex- 
press, to  find  lying  in  the  bottom  of  the  drifting 
skiff  a  lovely  child,  her  sweeet  little  face  turned  up 
to  the  heavens.  At  first  I  could  not  tell  whether 
she  vras  living  or  dead.  Her  long  brown  lashes 
were  fringed  over  her  closed  eyes ;  her  bright  golden 
curls  had  fallen  back,  exposing  to  the  sharp  rays  of 
the  sun  the  most  angelic-like  face  I  had  ever  beheld. 
I  stood  looking  upon  her  lovely  features  as  in  a 
dream,  when  an  angelic  smile  came  to  her  sweet 
countenance,  followed  by  a  soft  and  gentle  breathing. 
She  was  not  dead — only  sleeping. 

"Gently  I  fastened  the  drifting  craft  to  mine 
and  pulled  for  the  shore.  My  boat  coming  up 
to  the  bank  abruptly,  jarring  the  boat  she  was  in, 
startled  her.  In  a  moment  I  was  in  the  boat  with 
her,  taking  a  seat  to  steady  it  as  she  arose  to  her 


230  Reminisceyices  of  Old  Times 

little  feet,  rubbing  her  eyes,  seemingly  not  yet  fully 
awake.  Opening  her  large  clear  blue  eyes,  she  dis- 
covered me.  Springing  into  my  arms,  she  cried 
out: 

"'Oh!  papa,  papa;  w|iere  is  mamma?' 

"Burying  her  sweet  little  face  in  my  bosom  for 
several  moments,  I  pressed  her  little  head  to  my 
heart,  stroking  her  soft  hair,  while  scalding  tears 
came  trickling  down  over  my  old  brown,  furrowed 
cheeks.  Her  angelic  face  had  struck  a  cord  in  my 
heart,  calling  up  before  me  my  murdered  wife  and 
child.  I  held  in  my  bosom  the  image  of  my  long 
lost  little  Marie,  and  pressed  her  little  face  to  my 
aching  heart. 

"  She  raised  her  little  head,  looking  me  full  in  the 
face,  and  fixing  her  clear  blue  eyes  on  mine,  she 
spoke,  saying: 

"'1  thought  you  was  papa.  I  don't  know  you. 
W^hat  makes  you  cry  ? ' 

"  Moments  passed  before  I  could  give  utterance  to 
a  word.  Recovering  myself,  however,  and  without 
answering  her  inquiring  looks  as  to  who  I  was,  I 
asked  her  to  tell  me  her  name. 

"'Mary,'  she  said. 

" '  Ah !  yes ;  Marie — Mary  what  ? ' 

"'Just  Mary.' 

" '  What  is  your  papa's  name  ?  ' 

"'Charley.' 

"'Charley  what?' 

"'Only  just  Charley.  Mamma  calls  him  only 
Charley.' 

" '  Well;  what 's  mamma's  name ? ' 


'  in  West  Tennessee.  231 

"'Katy — Katy  darling,  papa  calls  her  sometimes.' 

" '  Where  is  your  papa? ' 

"*Don't  know  where  papa  is.' 

" '  How  did  yon  get  in  this  boat  ? ' 

'"You  see,  when  everything  was  shaking  so,  and 
the  houses  was  falling,  papa  picked  me  up  and 
run  down  to  the  river  and  put  me  into  the  boat; 
then  he  went  back  to  bring  mamma.  Mamma  was 
coming  down  the  hill.  When  papa  and  mamma 
got  down  the  hill  the  boat  was  way  out  in  the  river. 
As  papa  jumped  into  the  water  to  catch  the  boat 
the  big  water  come  and  run  all  over  the  bank  and 
all  over  mamma.  The  boat  rocked  and  shaked  so 
bad  I  fell  down  in  it,  and  didn't  see  papa  and 
mamma  any  more.' 

"Fully  comprehending  the  dread  catastrophe 
which  had  made  an  orphan  of  the  dear  little  crea- 
ture, I  remained  silent  for  several  moments,  when 
she  asked  me  if  she  would  see  papa  and  mamma 
any  more.  I  expressed  to  her  my  fears  that  she 
would  not.  Without  undertaking  to  explain  to  her 
little  mind  the  cause  of  the  dreadful  calamity  which 
had  happened  to  her  papa  and  mamma,  I  told  her 
that  I  would  be  a  good  papa  to  her,  and  that  I  would 
love  and  take  care  of  her.  The  dear  little  creature 
evinced  a  clearness  of  mind  unusual  in  one  so  young. 
She  may  have  been  as  much  as  four  years  old.  She 
had  cried  until  the  fountain  of  her  tears  had  dried 
up.  She  soon  became  perfectly  reconciled  to  her 
situation,  and  by  degrees  ceased  to  speak  of  papa 
and  mamma.  From  all  I  could  gather  from  her,  I 
became  satisfied  that  New  Madrid  was  the   scene 


332  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

of  her  misfortunes;  the  result  of  the  great  earth- 
quake. 

"I  took  httle  Mary  to  my  hut.  She  soon  learned 
to  love  me.  As  she  grew  up  I  sought  to  amuse 
and  interest  her  little  mind  in  every  way  possible. 
The  wild-woods,  with  its  beautiful  flowers,  and  many 
changing  scenes,  aftbrded  a  wide  field  for  the  pleas- 
ures of  her  childhood.  I  taught  her  to  read  and 
write.  She  acquired  all  the  knowledge  I  was  capa- 
ble of  imparting.  She  was  most  fond  of  her  little 
Bible,  which  she  had  read  through  and  through 
more  than  a  half  dozen  times.  She  learned  to 
mark  the  Sabbath  days,  and  to  keep  them  more 
holy  than  other  days.  Her  sanctuary  was  in  the 
deep  shades  of  the  glen,  and  her  pew  the  green 
sward,  guarded  by  the  halo  of  her  own  pure 
thoughts.  Joyous  and  happy  in  her  own  Eden,  she 
knew  nothing  of  guile,  and  not  a  stran  of  one  of 
her  golden  ringlets  had  been  touched  with  evil. 
She  lived  in  the  pure  atmosphere  of  her  own  soul, 
tempered  by  the  teachings  of  the  Virgin  Mary; 
born  to  love,  her  loving  nature  went  in  search  of 
something  to  love.  On  the  lake  she  was  most  fond 
to  dwell;  communing  with  and  caressing  her  little 
finny  companions,  she  taught  them  a  language  of 
her  own.  Oh  !  she  was  so  happy.  The  light  and 
life  of  m}^  old  days,  it  was  the  resume  of  my 
younger  and  happy  days. 

"From  the  day  that  the  handsome  young  hunter 
appeared  to  her  upon  the  lake,  from  the  hour  when 
they  parted  under  the  shadows  of  the  blufi*  by  the 
spring,  she  seemed  to  live  and  breathe  a  diflerent 


in  West  Tnwfssee.  233 

atmosphere;  all  that  she  had  once  loved  and  cher- 
ished became  oblivions.  She  went  no  more  to  com- 
mune with  and  caress  her  little  lake  companions. 
She  seemed  awakened  to  a  new  and  foreign  life — 
love's  imagination  had  possessed  her  very  soul. 
'Twas  like  onr  first  mother,  when  the  scales  fell 
from  her  eyes  and  she  beheld  the  first  man  Adam. 
The  first  evil  had  touched  her  and  entered  her  pure 
soul,  and  made  it  flesh  fleshy.  The  angel  of  the 
Lord  came  in  the  night  time  before  she  had  changed 
her  paradise  on  earth  and  rescued  her  pnre,  sinless 
soul  and  transported  it  to  the  paradise  in  heaven,  by 
the  side  of  the  Virgin  Mary.  The  White  Lily  was 
dead!  dead!  dead!  the  morning  of  the  day  she  was 
to  have  joined  her  Adam  on  earth.  As  she  lay 
upon  her  humble  little  couch  the  morning  which  to 
her  was  to  be  the  brightest  on  sinful  earth,  when 
the  first  ray  came  over  the  bluff,  reflecting  its  light 
upon  her  sweet  fiice,  her  bright  blue  eyes  had  lost 
their  glory — the  angelic  smile  yet  lingering  upon 
her  bright  countenance  pointed  as  an  index-finger 
to  a  more  glorious  realm  on  high,  to  which  her  soul 
had  taken  its  flight.  'Twere  better  so,  or  'twere 
better  fiir,  that  her  little  lake  companions  were  alone 
left  to  moan  her  absence  from  the  bright  waters  of 
the  '  Lake  of  the  Lilies.' 

"Of  myself  I  write,  that  I  was  born  in  France,  on 
the  fourth  day  of  April,  1737.  I  was  christened,  in 
the  holy  Catholic  faith,  Pierre  Saint  Martin  Mchol. 
My  father  was  of  honorable  birth;  becoming  bank- 
rupt by  investing  largely  in  John  Law's  Mississippi 
bubble,  I  was  taken  from  school  when  in  my  seven- 


234  B.emiaiscences  of  Old  Times 

teeiith  year.  Of  ardent  and  restless  temperament, 
I  joined  an  expedition  fitting  out  for  Canada,  and 
will  have  lived  in  America  on  to-morrow — to-mor- 
row! The  light  of  my  life  has  gone;  my  soul 
folio weth  to-morrow." 


in  Wed  Tennessee.  235 


CHAPTER  XL 

Ifayivood  County — Colonel  Richard  Nixon,  the  Pioneer 
Settler— N.  T.  Perkins— Hirnni  Bradford— The  Taylor 
Family — Major  Widiam  R.  Hess — His  Appearance  be- 
fore the  County  Court — The  Moody  Excitement. 

Haywood — named  for  one  of  ^ortli  Carolina's  hon- 
ored and  trusted  sons,  Judge  John  Haywood — was 
erected  into  a  county  in  the  year  1821.  One  of  the 
second  tier  of  counties  from  the  Mississippi  river, 
lying  between  the  w-aters  of  the  Big  Hatchie  and 
Forked  Deer  rivers,  it  embraces  withiti  its  limits  a 
larger  area  of  rich  and  arable  territory  than  any 
other  county  in  West  Tennessee.  The  early  immi- 
grant settlers  to  it,  were  men  of  character  and  wealth, 
who  shaped  and  modeled  its  institutions,  and  gave 
tone  to  society. 

Among  them  v/3re  Col.  Richard  Mxon,  L.  Mc- 
Guire,  Mcholas  T.  Perkins,  the  Sanders,  Taylors, 
Bradfords,  Bonds,  Estes,  and  many  others,  whose 
brave  hearts  and  inflexible  will  sustain  them  in  the 
perils  and  hardships  of  pioneer  life,  and  who  stand 
as  amon^  the  noble  fathers  of  the  land. 

The  first  court  was  organized  and  held  at  the 
house  of  Colonel  Richard  Mxon,  on  the  eighth  of 
March,  1824,  by  Richard  Mxon,  Laurence  McGuire, 
Nicholas  T.  Perkins,  Jonathan  T.  Jacobs,  William 
Dodd,   Britton   II.    Saunders,  David   JeflTries    and 


236  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

Blackmail  Coleman,  Ricard  Nixon  being  elected 
Chairman.  The  following  officers  were  then  elected : 
Britton  H.  Saunders,  Clerk;  John  G.  Carutherp, 
Sheriff;  Richard  W.  Nixon,  Trustee;  William  Dood, 
Ranger;  Reuben  Alphin,  Constable. 

The  following  named  gentlemen  composed  the 
venire  from  which  the  first  grand  and  petit  juries 
were  formed:  Richard  Nixon,  Edward  Howard, 
Charles  Howard,  William  H.  Henderson,  Alfred 
Kenedy,  John  Mc White,  Jonathan  Nixon,  Thomas 
Gr.  Nixon,  Lewis  Welerbv,  Julius  Saunders,  John 
Johnson,  John  R.  McGuire,  John  Jones,  Nathan 
Bridgeman,  S.  W.  Farmer,  Hardy  Blackwell,  Wyatt 
Twity,  Willie  Patrick,  R.  AV.  Nixon,  William  H. 
Dyer,  H.  A.  Powell,  James  York  and  Thomas 
Ghent. 

The  first  order  of  the  court  was  to  the  Sheriff, 
requiring  that  he  collect  the  sum  of  six  and  three- 
fourth  cents  per  every  one  hundred  acres  of  land  in 
the  county,  as  a  "fund  to  pay  the  tallismen  and 
jurors  one  dollar  a  day." 

The  first  Circuit  Court  was  held  on  the  fourteenth 
day  of  June,  1824,  at  the  house  of  Colonel  Richard 
Nixon;  Joshua  Haskell,  Judge,  and  Blackmau 
Coleman,  Clerk.     The  first  settler  in  Hayw^ood,  was 

COL.  RICHARD    NIXON, 

who  blazed  out  his  course  and  cut  his  own  road 
from  the  settled  vicinity  of  Jackson,  to  where  he 
pitched  his  tent,  on  the  creek  which  took  his  name 
(Nixon's  creek),  three  miles  east  of  Brownsville. 
The  red  men  of  the  woods  were  encamped  on  the 
same  creek — the  noble  Chickasaws — with  whom  he 


m  West  Ihmessee.  237 

cultivated  kindly  relations,  and  for  many  weeks 
shared  with  them  the  hospitalities  of  their  camp. 

The  first  civil  courts  of  the  county  were  organ- 
ized and  held  in  his  house,  as  also,  the  first  religious 
meeting  where  prayer  was  made.  As  the  county 
began  to  settle  up,  the  hardy  pioneer  boys  and  girls 
would  meet  at  his  house  and  enjoy  the  old  time 
dance.  He  was  at  the  birth  and  naming  of  the 
county  site,  acting  as  one  of  the  commissioners  in 
laying  off  the  town  (Brownsville). 

A  member  of  the  Magistrate  Court  from  its  incep- 
tion, he  was  chosen  as  its  chairman,  wbich  position 
he  retained  until  his  death  in  1831.  A  novel  case 
arising  in  the  early  courts  of  Haywood,  involving  a 
question  of  title  to  some  land  or  free-hold,  governed 
by  the  laws  and  adjudications  of  the  courts  of  ItTortli 
Carolina,  requiring  a  certain  law  book,  which  was 
not  to  be  had  or  found  in  the  law  libraries  of  Ten- 
nessee, he  mounted  a  courier  on  horse-back  and 
sent  him  post-haste  all  the  way  to  Raleigh,  ]^.  C, 
for  the  law  book,  and  had  it  produced  on  trial  of 
the  case  at  its  next  term. 

His  last  mingling  among  his  fellow-citizens  of 
Haywood,  was  as  President  of  a  Fourth  of  July  cele- 
bration at  Brownsville,  a  few  months  before  his 
death,  on  which  occasion  tlie  following  volunteer 
toast  was  offered  by  a  cotemporary  settler,  Mr.  H. 
Haralson,  and  drank  with  hats  oft':  "To  Colonel 
Richard  Nixon,  President  of  the  day.     The  first 

SETTLER,    AND    MO'^T    PROMINENT     CITIZEN."        Coloucl 

Nixion  was  born  in  Korth  Carolina  in  the  year  1769. 
He  represented  the  people  of  his  native   count}^, 


238  Remmiscenccs  of  Old  Times 

I^ew  Hanover,  with  distinguished  honor  for  many 
years.  ]S"oted  for  his  genial  hospitality,  kind  and 
generous  heart  as  a  neighhor,  his  name  will  ever  he 
kindly  remembered  by  all  who  knew  him. 

Wliile  it  is  not  the  purpose  of  the  writer  of  these 
semi-historic  reminiscences  to  become  the  biogra- 
pher of  all  the  old  and  worthy  pioneer  settlers  in 
the  Big  Hatchie  country,  he  cannot,  without  a 
breach  of  courtesy  due  the  "  old  folks,"  whose  long 
and  eventful  lives  have  come  down  to  the  more 
modern  days,  leave  unnoticed  the  name  of 

ESQUIEE    NICHOLAS   T.  PERKINS, 

who,  with  a  small  colony  of  his  name  and  kindred, 
immigrated  from  East  to  Middle  Tennessee  at 
an  early  day,  and  as  soon  as  the  way  was 
opened  up  to  the  out-skirts  of  civilization,  pressed 
on  and  settled  in  Haywood  in  the  year  1823.  In 
1824  we  find  him  one  of  the  first  acting  magistrates, 
and  one  of  the  commissioners  to  lay  ofi"  and  estab- 
lish the  site  for  the  seat  of  justice  for  the  county, 
which  he,  in  conjunction  with  the  other  commis- 
sioners, named  Brownsville,  in  honor,  it  may  be 
vanity  to  presume,  of  one  of  the  ^N'orth  Carolina 
Brow^ns. 

In  March,  1825,  he  acted  as  a  commissioner  with 
L.  McGuire,  Charles  White,  William  H.  Henderson 
and  Thomas  G.  IS'ixon,  under  appointment  from  the 
Worshipful  Court  of  Pleas  and  Quarter  Sessions,  as 
it  was  then  called,  selling  at  public  sale  the  lots  in 
Browmsville. 

'Squire  Perkins  was  born  in  Nox  county,  Tenu.,  A. 
D.  1793,  and  died  in  Brownsville  in  1872,  having 


in  West  Tennessee.  239 

lived  six  years  beyond  the  period  allotted  to  man, 
and  within  a  few  months  of  a  half  century  in  Hay- 
wood. Most  exemplary  in  the  moral,  and  without 
spot  or  blemish  in  the  social,  always  faithful  in  trust 
for  himself,  he  became  the  executor,  administrator 
and  guardian  of  naore  of  the  widows'  and  orphans' 
property  and  estates,  than  any  man  in  the  county, 
which  attested  the  truth  of  the  saying, that  "  he  who 
managed  his  own  affairs  well,  could  be  trusted  to 
the  fiduciary  management  of  others."  He  enjoyed, 
to  the  last  day  of  his  long  and  useful  life,  the  confi- 
dence of  everyone,  never  betraying  a  trust.  He  dis- 
charged the  various  duties  devolved  upon  him  with 
marked  business  tact  and  capacity,  and  sterling 
integrity  and  fidelity.  He  died  as  he  had  lived — 
highly  esteemed,  respected  and  venerated. 

Brownsville  "  was  without  form  and  void "  until 
the  opening  of  spring,  in  the  year  of  our  Lord  one 
thousand  eight  hundred  and  twenty-five.  "  Goods, 
wares  and  merchandise"  had  been  sold  in  Jackson 
from  the  establishing  of  the  town,  which  was  done 
in  1822 — the  town  lots  having  been  sold  in  August 
of  that  year.  Brownsville  was  the  next  oldest 
county  town,  and  had  the  honor  of  having  the  first 
store  between  the  latter  place  and  the  Mississippi 
where  a  yard  of  tape  or  a  paper  of  pins  could  be 
had,  and 

HIRAM    BRADFORD 

was  the  first  store-keeper.  He  was  long  the  leading 
merchant  of  the  place  and  business  man  of  the 
county.  His  long  and  eventful  career  is  worthy, 
not  only  of  a  page  in  the  early  history  and  settle- 


240  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

ment  of  Brownsville,  but  of  imitation  by  all  begin- 
ners in  hewing  out  the  rough  and  difficult  path- 
way of  life,  when  self-reliance  is  the  only  sustaining 
element.  In  his  youth,  he  had  made  it  his  aim  and 
object  in  life  to  become  rich,  and  to  brave  whatever 
of  peril  and  hardship  it  might  coet  him  in  its  accom- 
plishment. He  got  his  first  start  by  trading  in 
horses  and  mules,  taking  them  to  the  old  settled 
part  of  Louisiana,  through  the  many  miles  of  wild 
Indian  territory,  and  often  returning  home  to  his 
father's  house  on  the  Cumberland,  in  Stewart  coun- 
ty, on  foot,  when  he  would  not  see  a  white  man's 
face  from  the  settlement  at  N^atchez  until  he  reached 
Tennessee.  In  his  frequent  trips  to  Louisiana,  he 
had  examined  the  country,  then  in  the  cradle  of  the 
wilderness,  from  the  Big  Hatchie  to  the  Yazoo,  cul- 
tivated friendly  intercourse  with  the  Indians,  and 
"talked  injun"  equal  to  a  Chickasaw  or  Choctaw. 
Reaching  the  age-  when  it  becomes  man's  duty  to 
"  pare  off"  and  assume  the  responsibilities  of  a  good 
citizen,  he  married  and  resolved  to  ^x  his  residence 
among  the  Tunica  hills  of  Louisiana,  w^here  he  had 
seen  cotton  growing.  He  went  to  work,  in  part  with 
his  own  hands,  and  built  him  a  flatboat,  against  the 
earnest  protestations  of  his  father  and  neighbors, 
(netting  his  boat  ready  by  fall,  he  loaded  it  with 
corn,  leaving  room  for  his  young  family  and  house- 
hold. So  much  opposed  was  his  father  and  family, 
including  his  two  negro  men,  to  his  moving  to 
Louisiana,  which  was  regarded  as  a  sickly  country, 
and  to  thwart  his  going,  in  the  dead  of  night,  before 
the  morning  fixed  for  his  leaving,  his  flatboat  was 


in  West   Tennessee.  241 

scuttled  by  tlie  negroes  and  sunk  in  the  waters  of 
the  Cumberland. 

He  rose  early  the  next  morning  and  repaired  to  the 
scene  of  his  discomfiture.  The  people  of  Dover,  a 
little  town  on  the  Cumberland  where  his  father 
resided,  gathered  to  the  river  bank.  The  boat  was 
yet  fast  to  the  bank,  and  about  one-half  of  the  front 
part  of  it  out  of  the  water.  Hiram  pulled  off  his 
coat  and  with  his  two  negro  men  went  to  work, 
throwing  out  the  corn,  which  was  in  the  after-part 
of  the  boat.  Soon  she  began  to  rise,  when  he,  with 
a  face  beaming  with  delighted  hope,  ran  up  on  the 
bank,  jumping  high  up  and  slapping  his  heels  to- 
gether, cried  oat:  "Hurrah  for  Louisiana!"  His 
friends,  taking  inspiration  from  his  ardent  and 
undaunted  spirit,  though  loth  to  see  him  go,  fell  to 
with  him,  and  by  noon  had  the  boat  afloat  and  ready 
for  loading  up  again.  Filling  it  again  with  corn, 
and  putting  aboard  his  young  wife  and  one  child, 
with  such  comforts  as  would  be  needed  on  the  trip, 
he,  with  his  two  negro  men,  cut  loose  the  moorings 
and  floated  out  from  Dover  in  the  fall  of  1817. 
Meeting  with  no  difficulty  on  the  voyage,  he  floated 
down  the  Mississippi,  landing  at  Bayou  Sara,  meet- 
ing with  the  first  steamboat  he  had  ever  seen  on  the 
way. 

With  his  two  negro  men,  he  labored  in  the  cotton- 
field,  succeeding  well  in  raising  cotton.  The  hot 
sun  and  long  summers  of  Louisiana,  together  with 
the  unhealthy  state  of  the  country,  determined  him 
to  move  back  to  Tennessee.  Familiar  with  the  rich 
virgin  lands  west  of  the  Tennessee  river,  he  resolved 
11 


242  Bcminiscences  of  Old  Times 

on  fixing  his  future  place  of  abode  in  Haywood. 
Learning  the  day  fixed  for  the  sale  of  the  lots  in 
Brownsville,  he  gathered  together  his  accumulations, 
with  which,  and  his  cotton  crop  of  ten  hales  of  that 
season,  he  went  to  New  Orleans  and  bought  him  a 
stock  of  goods,  ordering  his  family  to  be  ready  on 
the  bank  of  the  river  for  the  boat  as  she  came  up. 

Shipping  his  goods-  on  the  steamboat ,  and 

taking  his  family  aboard  as  she  passed  up,  he  landed 
at  Fulton  in  the  latter  part  of  February,  1825.  His 
aim  was  to  attend  the  sale  of  the  lots  at  Browns- 
ville. Procuring  a  couple  of  horses  at  Fulton,  he 
mounted  one  of  them,  taking  one  child  before  him 
and  another  behind  him.  His  wife  rode  the  other, 
with  the  third  child  behind  her.  He  started  oiF  for 
the  lot  sale,  making  his  way  as  best  he  could  along 
Indian  trails,  until  he  reached  the  neighborhood  of 
Brownsville,  stopping  at  Reuben  Alfin's.  He  was 
among  the  first  on  the  ground,  when  the  sale  of  lots 
began,  and  bid  off  the  first  lot,  No.  1,  situated  on 
the  corner  of  the  Public  Square  and  East  Main 
street,  south  side.  Having  his  two  men  with  him, 
he  put  them  to  work  the  next  day  upon  a  large 
oak  tree  that  stood  near  the  corner,  which  he  had 
split  into  slabs,  twelve  by  fourteen  feet  long,  and 
built  the  first  store-house  erected  in  Brownsville. 
It  was  built  over  the  stump  of  the  tree  that  fur- 
nished the  material  for  its  construction.  The  Major, 
leaving  his  family  with  Reuben  Alfin,  returned  to 
Fulton,  and,  by  the  time  his  new  store-house  was 
covered  in  and  floored  with  puncheons,  he  had  his 
boxes  of  goods  ready  on  the  ground  to  be  opened. 


in  West  Tmnessce.  243 

During  that  year  he  erected  a  saw-pit  on  the  same 
lot,  and  had  sawed  out  by  hand  lumber  with  which 
he  built  the  first  hotel  in  the  town,  adjoining  his 
store-house,  which,  for  size  and  respectability,  was 
not  equaled  by  any  house  of  public  entertainment 
in  the  district.  It  was  continued  as  the  finest  and 
best  hotel  in  Brownsville  until  within  a  few  years 
past,  when  it  had  to  give  way  for  the  more  modern 
improvement  in  brick  and  mortar.  In  front  of  his 
hotel,  he  set  out  the  first  shade  tree  on  the  Public 
Square,  which  also  fell  a  victim  to  the  progress  of 
the  age,  to  make  room  for  a  shelter  of  dry  boards, 
the  stump  of  which  still  clings  to  mother  earth,  to 
remind  the  passer-by  of  the  hand  that  put  it  there, 
where  for  forty-six  years  it  bloomed  and  blossomed 
(it  was  the  flowering  locust)  over  the  front  windows 
of  the  hotel,  under  which  the  gay  young  men  of  the 
town  stood  and  coursed  loving  talk  to  the  beautiful 
young  women,  daughters  and  sisters  of  the  proprie- 
tors, long,  long  ago,  through  the  raised  windows  and 
flowing  curtains. 

Few  men  lived  so  long  and  blameless  a  life  as 
Hiram  Bradford,  enjoying  the  fruits  of  a  well-earned 
fortune  and  an  honorable  name,  all  of  which  he  left 
as  a  noble  heritage  to  his  surviving  children. 

THE   TAYLOR    FAMILY. 

Five  brothers  of  them,  Richard,  Howell,  John  Y., 
Edmond,  and  Buck,  with  the  old  patriarch,  their 
father,  migrated  from  Virginia  in  the  year  1827-8, 
and  made  permanent  settlements  in  Haywood. 

Men  of  parts  and  large  property,  zealous  in  the 
advocacy  and  vindication  of  law  and  order,  noted 


244  Rewiniscences  of  Old  Times 

for  their  patriotic  zeal  and  Christian  virtues,  none 
contributed  more  in  the  forming  of  sound  morals 
and  the  general  well  being  of  society.  Their  lives 
we:'e  a  noble  example  to  posterity,  illustrative  of  the 
passion  that  animates  man  in  the  character  of  a  good 
citizen.  The  writer  regrets  his  inability,  for  lack 
of  sufficient  data,  to  give  such  a  personal  sketch  of 
the  several  members  of  the  family  as  their  long  and 
useful  lives  so  justly  merit;  as  also,  of  many  others 
of  the  old  and  first  settlers  whose  names  are  worthy 
to  be  mentioned  in  these  pages. 

The  first  physicians  who  settled  in  Brownsville 
were  Wilham  C.  Bruce,  Dorthel,  Penn,  Dillard, 
Johnson  and  Barby. 

ALLEN    J.    BARBY's 

name  as  physician,  citizen  and  benefactor  stands 
alone  in  Haywood.  One  of  nature's  noblemen,  he 
stands  to-day  without  a  living  peer  among  his  early 
professional  associates.  The  writer,  for  lack  of  the 
necessary  data,  is  unable  to  give  such  a  personal 
sketch  of  Dr.  Barby  as  his  long  and  useful  life  justly 
merits.  Few  men,  whether  in  the  professional  or 
private  walks  of  life,  have  enjoj^ed  the  uniform  con- 
fidence and  esteem  of  his  fellow-man  more  than 
Doctor  Allen  J.  Barby. 

DAVID    MCLEOD, 

the  pioneer  tailor  of  Brownsville,  is  yet  among 
the  living.  Before  the  town  had  a  corporate  exist- 
ence, he  worked  at  his  trade  in  a  shop  built  of  logs. 
To  aftbrd  the  necessary  light  to  his  tailor's  bench,  a 
side-log  was  sawed  out.  The  old  tailor,  though 
bent  a  little  with  the  weight  of  many  years,  takes 


in  West  Tennessee.  245 

pride  in  pointing  out  where  the  big  stump  stocd 
upon  which  he  used  to  build  a  fire  to  heat  his 
"goose,"  with  which  he  pressed  oiF  the  first  suit  of 
clothes  he  made,  for  Colonel  Mxon,  from  cloth 
bought  out  of  Hiram  Bradford's  "  rail-pen  store/' 

DANIEL  CHERRY, 

with  other  owners  of  land  grants  west  of  the  Ten-^ 
iiessec  river,  had  a  drawing  for  choice  of  locations. 
Mr.  Cherry  drew  the  first  and  second  choice,  and  as 
early,   perhaps,    as    1821,  visited  West  Tennessee, 
locating  his  first  choice  where  he  afterward  settled, 
on  the  Forked  Deer  river,  and  his  second  choice  at 
"Poplar  Corner."     It  was  ncrt,  perhaps,  until  1823 
that  Mr.  Cherry  fixed  his  permanent  residence  on 
the  south  fork  of  the  Forked  Deer  river,  where  he 
early  made  his  mark  as  a  man  of  enterprise  and 
thrift.     His  first  aim  in  opening  up    the   country, 
was  to  provide  well- the  "staff"  of  life."     His  choice 
of  lands  were  unsurpassed  in  fertility,  and  particu- 
larly   adapted    to   the    culture    of  corn.     He    soon 
became  noted  as  the  best  corn  grower  in  the  dis- 
trict.    Corn  and  meat  he  always  had  to  sell.     The 
writer,  in  looking  over  the   files    of  the   Jackson 
Gazette    (a    newspaper    published   in   Jackson   by 
Colonel  D.  C.  McLean),  finds  an  advertisement  of 
Mr.  Cherry's,  which,  with  his  teeming  fields  of  corn, 
shows  the  fatness  of  the  land.     The  advertisement 
reads  thus: 

"bacon. 

"I  have  about  15,000  pounds  of  bacon  and  1000 
pounds  of  lard  for  sale  at  Harrisburg,  in  Haywood 
county.  Daniel  Cherry. 

"April  23d,  1825." 


246  licminiscmccs  of  Old  Times 

In  another  place  in  the  same  paper  he  advertises 
several  thousand  bushels  of  corn  for  sale.  lie 
showed  ^'reat  enterprise  in  the  building  of  a  mill 
on  the  Forked  Deer,  by  which  the  surrounding  set- 
tlements were  supplied  with  good  meal.  Selecting 
his  mill-site  on  a  slough  at  the  edge  of  the  high 
land  where  he  had  fixed  his  residence,  he  built  a 
broad  levee  across  the  bottom  above  the  overflow, 
upon  Avhich  the  public  could  travel  at  all  seasons  of 
the  year.  To  afford  ample  water  for  his  mill,  he 
contracted  the  width  and  consequent  flow  of  the 
waters  of- the  Forked  Deer,  causing  an  increased 
flow  into  his  mill-pond. 

By  his  probity  and  practical  good  sense  he  grew 
rich,  and  reared  a  large  family  of  sons  and  daugh- 
ters, many  of  whom,  with  their  sons  and  daughters, 
live  to  adopi  the  society  of  West  Tennessee. 

Mr.  Cherry  was  a  native  of  ITorth  Carolina.  He 
lived  a  long  and  useful  life.  His  memory  will  be 
venerated  as  long  as  the  place  (Cherry ville)  which 
bears  his  name  shall  be  known  through  future 
generations. 

THE    FIRST    EXECUTION. 

The  first  execution  issued  against  personal  pro- 
perty, and  put  in  the  hands  of  the  Sheriff",  Reuben 
Alfin,  acting  deputy  was  levied  upon  a  male  of  the 
cow  kind,  a  large  red  bull,  belonging  to  the  defen- 
dant in  execution.  The  acting  deputy  felt  kindly 
toward  the  defendant,  and  had  made  it  his  special 
business  to  make  it  known  to  all  the  people  of 
the  country  the  day  on  which  the  noble  animal 
would  be  sold,  and  had  spoken  much  of  the  pro- 


in  West  Tennessee.  247 

perty  in  execution,  of  his  blood  and  pedigree,  for 
he  was  of  the  best  stock  of  cattle  from  Middle 
Tennessee.  His  owner  had  taken  great  pains  in 
his  raising,  and  handled  him  easy.  The  kind- 
hearted  deputy  had  practiced  with  him  some,  in 
order  that  he  might  handle  him  to  advantage  on 
the  day  of  sale.  The  day,  according  to  tlie  notices 
pasted  up  through  the  country,  came  around,  and 
the  bull  was  brought  to  town  and  tied  to  a  large 
stump  in  the  Public  Square,  with  many  feet  of  rope, 
to  allow  him  the  use  of  himself  as  well  as  to  graze 
around.  It  was  summer,  and  not  uncommon  in 
those  days  for  the  grass  to  grow  on  the  square,  or  in 
the  streets. 

As  the  hour  for  the  sale  approached,  the  people 
from  many  parts  of  the  country  began  to  pour  in, 
and  gather  around  the  bull,  to  examine  and  take  a 
look  before  the  sale  commenced.  He  was  a  monster 
bull, a  dark  mahogany-red,  without  spot  or  blemish, 
fat  and  sleek — a  prize  to  a  modern  butcher.  The 
time  arrived  for  the  sale  to  begin;  the  good-hoartod 
deputy  mounted  the  stump,  to  which  the  property 
in  execution  was  tied,  and  made  proclamation  of  the 
terms  of  the  sale,  etc.,  and  called  for  bids.  Many 
cattle-raisers  were  there,  and  soon  an  active  compe- 
tition among  the  bidders  sprung  up.  The  good- 
hearted  deputy  sheriff  kept  up  a  lively  crying  of  tlie 
bids,  now  and  then  pausing  to  expatiate  on  the  line 
qualities  and  immense  value  of  the  noble  animal. 
In  the  meantime,  the  town  folks  gathered  on  the 
square  and  around  the  bull.  Curiosity  and  interest 
on  the  part  of  the  numerous  bidders  caused  the 


248  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

crowd  to  press  in  close  and  around  the  bull,  thus 
pushing  him  out  to  the  extent  allowed  by  the  rope — 
some  thirty  or  more  feet  from  the  stump  to  which 
he  was  tied.  Comprehending  nothing  of  the  gath- 
ering and  excited  interest  around  him,  the  bull 
began  to  grow  restive,  shaking  his  great  head  and 
tearing  up  the  ground.  He  was  regarded  as  per- 
fectly gentle  and  docile,  however,  and  his  becoming 
excited  and  animated  only  increased  the  interest  of 
the  surrounding  by-standers.  In  the  meantime  the 
bidding  increased  in  interest  and  rivalry,  and  was 
going  on  bravely,  when  a  laboring  man  came  out 
of  a  well  that  he  was  digging  near,  and,  attracted  by 
the  crowd  on  the  square,  he  pressed  in  to  get  a  sight 
of  the  object  of  so  much  interest.  The  bull  by  this 
time  had  become  infuriated.  The  well-digger  con- 
tinued to  press  through  the  crowd  until  he  got 
within  a  few  paces  of  him,  as  though  he  proposed 
"  taking  the  bull  by  the  horns !"  N'o  sooner  did  the 
infuriated  animal  get  a  sight  of  his  red  flannel  shirt 
than  he  made  a  rush  upon  him.  The  man  in  the 
red  flannel  turned  and  made  his  best  run  to  keep 
out  of  his  way,  taking  his  course  circling  around  the 
stump,  and  for  the  most  part  on  the  outside  of  the 
bidders  and  by-standers.  In  the  bull's  run  the  rope 
slacked  up,  taking  the  crowd  along  about  the  knees. 
The  bull  had  performed  the  circle,  leveling  every 
one  to  the  ground  who  stood  within  it.  The  situa- 
tion was  becoming  painfully  terrific.  The  man  with 
the  red  shirt  kept  on  the  outside,  beyond  the  reach 
of  the  mad  bull.  The  kind-hearted  deputy,  to  re- 
lieve the  situation  immediately  around  him,  pulled 


in  West  Tennessee.  249 

out  his  knife  and  cut  the  rope,  freeing  the  bull,  when 
he  broke  for  the  red  shirt.  Away  they  went  amid 
the  excited  shouts  of  the  crowd,  across  the  square, 
the  bull  gaining  on  him  every  jump,  until  the  well- 
digger  reached  his  well,  only  saving  himself  by 
swinging  on  to  the  well-rope  and  letting  himself 
down  out  of  sight.  The  bull,  finding  himself  at 
liberty  to  go  his  way,  broke  for  home.  The  injury 
and  damage  around  the  stump  was  purely  inci- 
dental, lacking  in  malice,  and  the  bull  was  freely 
forgiven. 

The  last  and  highest  bidder  was  not  remem- 
bered by  the  deputy  sheriff.  The  day  for  return- 
ing the  execution  was  close  at  hand,  and  how  to 
make  his  return  upon  it  was  a  puzzle. 

Had  Vol.  Sevier  been  a  resident  of  the  town  at 
that  day,  it  would  have  been  said  that  he  had  had 
something  to  do  with  the  well-digger's  coming  out 
of  his  well  with  a  red  flannel  shirt  on. 

Prominent  among  the  lawyers  who  early  settled 
in  Brownsville,  was 

MAJ.  WM.  R.  HESS, 

ingenuous  and  amiable  in  aspect,  square  in  build 
and  medium  in  stature ;  his  hair,  for  lack  of  a  bar- 
ber, usually  fell  low  upon  his  broad  shoulders.  In 
dress  he  was  careless,  sometimes  to  slovenliness.  A 
good  dinner  and  full  bottle  pleased  him  much.  He 
liad  wit,  learning  and  elocution,  sprightly  in  debate, 
with  all  the  dignity  of  a  professional  man,  yet  he 
was  m.odest  and  retiring.  Admitted  to  the  bar  when 
quite  young,  he  soon  took  a  high  position,  and  gave 
promise  of  a  brilliant  future.     Few  men,  in  so  brief 


260  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

a  career,  attained  to  a  higher  degree  of  eminence, 
or  held  within  his  grasp  a  power  of  mind  that  woukl 
have  insured  the  full  measure  of  a  laudable  ambition. 
His  genius  and  learning,  however,  were  counterbal- 
anced by  indolence  and  a  too  great  fondness  for 
personal  ease  and  self-gratification.  The  public 
weal  concerned  him  little,  refusing  on  several  occa- 
sions to  accept  positions,  requiring  him  to  mix  with 
the  voxpopuli;  yet  he  was  good  company,  and  en- 
joyed the  social  of  a  small  circle,  and  a  good  joke? 
not  unfrequently  perpetrating  one  himself. 

It  is  remembered  of  him,  that  on  one  occasion 
he  appeared  before  the  Magistrate's  Court — the 
Court  of  Pleas  and  Quarter  Sessions — one  winter 
day.  He  had  just  risen  from  a  good  dinner  and  an 
empty  bottle,  and  remembering  that  he  had  a  motion 
to  make  before  the  Court  adjourned,  he  strode  to- 
ward the  Court-house.  Losing  nothing  of  his 
accustomed  dignity  of  manner,  with  measured  steps 
he  walked  into  the  court-room.  Unbuttoning  his 
old  green  blanket  overcoat,  throwing  back  the 
heavy  colar,  and  thrusting  his  left  thumb  in  the 
arm-hole  of  his  vest,  he  presented  himself  to  the 
Court,  announcing  his  wish  to  make  a  motion.  The 
Court,  being  engaged  in  some  matter  then  before  it, 
paid  no  attention  to  him.  He  announced  again  that 
he  wanted  to  make  a  motion,  yet  the  Court  heard 
him  not.  Patiently  he  stood,  the  personification  of 
the  great  Webster  in  the  United  States  Senate. 
lvai^^ing  his  clear,  ringing  voice,  he  repeated,  for  the 
third  time — 

"May   it  please   this   must  Worshipful   Court,  I 


in  West  Tennessee.  251 

have  a  motion  to  make.     Will  you  please  hear  ? " 

Still  no  recognition.  Putting  on  his  hat,  he 
turned  upon  his  heel  and  walked  out  of  the  court- 
room, with  the  same  steady  step  that  he  came  in. 
Passing  out  to  a  pile  of  brickbats  that  lay  in  the 
court-yard,  he  filled  the  great  pockets  of  his  over- 
coat, and  retraced  his  steps  to  the  court-room,  with 
a  brick  in  each  hand,  as  well  as  one  in  his  hat,  and 
again  presented  himself  before  the  Court. 

"]^ow,  Mr.  Chairman,"  he  said,  "I  will  make  a 
motion  that  will  engage  the  attention  of  this  Court." 

Suiting  his  action  to  his  words,  he  let  fly  at  the 
Chairman's  head.  He  dodged  and  fell  under  the 
Judge's  bench,  the  brick  shattering  the  window- 
glass  behind  him.  The  Major  let  fly  another,  and 
another,  at  the  associate  members  of  the  Court,  un- 
til his  pockets  w^ere  emptied.  In  the  meantime,  the 
"Mr.  Chairman,"  who  lisped  badly,  was  all  the 
while  crying  out  to  his  associates : 

"  Lah  loh,  boyth,  lah  loh,  all  on  you  !  He'll  hit 
thom  on  you,  if  you  don't  lah  loh." 

The  Major,  after  exhausting  his  ammunition,  re- 
tired in  good  order,  but  the  Court,  apprehending 
liiri  return  with  another  pocket  full  of  bats,  ordered 
the  Sheriff  to  adjourn  Court,  and  they  left  the  bench 
eniovinc:  the  last  "motion." 

"The  Moody  Case,"  occurring  several  years  later, 
in  which  the  Major  figured^  was  the  last  case  of  any 
note  in  which  he  was  connected.  The  case  is  mem- 
orable for  the  interest  and  excitement  it  produced  in 
the  county.  It  occurred  in  the  days  that  Murrell 
and  his  clansinen  figured,  and  Moody  was  regarded 


252  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

as  one  of  the  clan.  As  now  remembered,  it  was  a 
jnima  facie  case,  under  the  law,  of  negro  stealing.  A 
negro  man,  belonging  to  a  highly  respectable  and 
worthy  citizen  of  the  county,  Egbert  Shephard,  Esq., 
was  missing  from  his  master's  premises.  Whether 
decoyed  otf  or  "  run  away,"  was  a  question  soon 
solved  in  the  minds  of  the  people,  by  the  negro 
being  caught  in  a  watermelon  patch  somewhere  be- 
tween where  his  owner  lived  and  the  Mississippi 
river,  and  Moody,  who  had  been  "  spotted,"  found 
upon  the  premises.  The  negro  was  brought  back, 
and  lodged  in  jail  for  safe-keeping,  until  the  sup- 
posed negro  stealer  could  be  apprehended.  Lan- 
guage is  tame  to  say  the  county  and  town  was  in  a 
blaze  of  excitement.  The  popular  mind  was  in 
fever  heat  previous  to  the  occurrence  of  this  case. 
I^egro  stealing  was  becoming  common,  and  the  in- 
stitution was  becoming  menaced  and  threatened  in 
divers  ways  ;  so  it  was  not  long  before  Moody  was 
brought  for  trial.  The  gathering  on  the  Public 
Square  that  day  was  large,  and  the  excitement  and 
indignation  surpassed  anj^thing  that  occurred  before 
or  since.  The  old  and  best  men  of  the  county  were 
there  ready  to  participate  in  anything  that  was  nec- 
essary to  be  done,  whether  to  hang  the  offender,  or 
to  keep  him  Irom  being  hung,  without  judge  or 
jury.  But,  alas!  for  the  offended  law,  proof  of  the 
right  sort  was  lacking,  i^egro  proof  was  not  legal, 
and  it  was  the  only  kind  of  testimony  in  proof  of 
his  guilt  that  could  be  offered.  Yet  in  the  minds 
and  consciences  of  every  one  he  ivas  guilty.  He 
plead  not  guilty,  however — stood  up  with  a  bold 


in  West  Tennessee,  253 

and  defiant  mien,  and  challenged  proof  before  the 
men  of  the  law  of  the  land  and  God !  He  vowed 
that  he  neither  knew  the  negro  by  sight,  nor  did 
the  negro  know  him. 

It  was  arranged  to  put  his  avowed  innocence  to 
the  test.  The  populace  formed  a  ring,  in  the  mid- 
dle of  which  a  number  of  men  known  to  be  stran- 
gers to  the  negro,  together  with  Moody,  was  left 
standing.  The  negro  was  brought  out  of  jail,  and 
turned  loose,  and  told  to  go  in  the  crowd  and  find 
the  white  man  who  had  decoj^ed  him  away  from  his 
master's  premises.  He  passed  in  through  the  outer 
circle,  and  up  to  where  Moody,  with  a  dozen  men, 
were  standing,  and,  to  the  amazed  astonishment  of 
the  would-be  innocent  accused,  laid  his  black  hand 
upon  his  shoulder  and  announced  him  to  be  the  man. 
A  scene  ensued  that  beggars  description. 

Moody  winced  and  wilted,  while  the  populace 
with  one  voice  announced  him  guilty.  He  was  then 
taken  in  the  court-room,  and  before  the  committing 
magistrates,  the  owner  of  the  negro  having  made 
afi3.davit,  and  of  necessity  was  the  prosecutor.  Maj. 
Hess  had  engaged  to  defend  him.  The  court-room 
was  jammed  with  the  intensely  excited  and  indignant 
citizens.  In  the  meantime  many  of  the  old  and 
young  heads  were  in  council  on  the  other  side. 
Negro  testimony  not  being  admissible  under  the 
law,  and  no  othei  tangible  proof  at  hand  or  likely 
to  be  found,  the  wise  heads  concluded  that  a  trial 
before  the  courts  would  result  in  a  fiiilure,  if  not  a 
farce,  and  resolved,  upon  his  being  discharged  by 
the  magistrates,  to  take  the  case  in  their  own  hands. 


254  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

Upon  the  resolution  being  taken  they  proceeded  to 
the  court-room  and  awaited  the  action  of  the  magis- 
trates, who,  upon  their  being  no  proof  or  witnesses 
produced,  dismissed  the  suit  against  the  offender.  The 
court-room  filled  to  overflowing — every  man  a  wit- 
ness in  his  own  heart  and  conscience  of  the  guilt  of 
the  prisoner.  To  see  him  discharged,  to  go  hence 
without  day,  was  grievously  vexing.  Just  then  a 
dozen  or  more  of  the  leading  bold  spirits  of  the  day 
rushed  in  with  pistols  in  hand,  leaping  the  outer 
railing,  seized  the  culprit,  and  took  him  in  their 
hands.  The  gallant  Major,  who  had  stood  in  his 
defense  under  the  law,  and  who,  by  nature  and  in- 
stinct, was  averse  to  the  use  of  deadly  weapons, 
gathered  up  his  law  books  and  announced  to  the 
new  regime  that  he  did  not  practice  in  their 
court. 

The  "  case"  was  then  opened  upon  a  new  hearing. 
The  people  threw  themselves  into  a  committee  of 
the  whole,  upon  their  original  sovereign  rights,  and 
drew  from  among  themselves  a  panel  of  twenty-five 
jurors,  before  whom  Moody  was  arraigned  and  put 
upon  his  trial.  Sundry  speeches  and  harrangues 
were  made,  inflammable  and  conservative.  The 
drift  of  conscience  sentiment  was  inflexibly  that 
Moody  was  the  veritable  man,  and  a  full  verdict  of 
"guilty"  was  rendered  by  the  twenty-five  citizen 
jurors.  Failing  to  fix  the  penalty  for  so  grave  an 
ottence,  and  being  for  the  most  part  in  favor  of 
hanging,  they  recommended  that  another  jury  be 
drawn,  composed  of  twelve  of  the  most  conserva- 
tive and  discreet  citizens,  who  should  fix  the  pen- 


ill  West  Tennessee.  255 

alty,  which  was  doue,  and  constituted  a  part  of  the 
original  proceedings. 

According  to  the  finding  of  the  jury  of  his  peers, 
the  jury  of  twelve  pronounced  sentence  according 
to  the  Korth  Carolina  laws;  "  that  he  be  taken  out 
and  receive  a  given  number  of  lashes  upon  his  bare 
back,  and  be  branded  upon  his  left  cheek  with  the 
letter  '  R,'  and  required  to  put  the  Mississippi  river 
or  some  other  State  line  between  himself  and  the 
State  of  Tennessee,  within  the  twenty-four  hours 
next  ensuing."  The  sentence  was  fully  executed, 
and  Moody  went  according  to  the  requirements  of 
the  people,  acting  in  their  sovereign  capacity,  and 
the  "Moody  Case"  became  history. 


256  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 


CHAPTER  XII. 

The  First  Steamboat — The  Denizens  of  Haywood  Gather 
on  the  Bank  of  the  Big  Hatchie  to  see  it — Valentine 
Sevier,  the  Wit  and  Humorist  of  Brownsville — Cox,  the 
Postmaster — Old  Herring  Bones — The  Young  Horse- 
Trader. 

"Old  times"  in  Haywood  is  memorable  for  many 
amusing  incidents,  anecdotes  and  "good  things." 
Among  tlie  most  amusing,  and  yet  remembered 
with  a  lively  interest,  occurred  on  the  appearance  of 
the  first  steamboat  that  came  up  the  Big  Hatchie. 
Her  coming  was  heralded  over  the  county  several 
days  in  advance,  and  the  day  she  would  be  at  the 
Brownsville  landing  named.  All  the  men,  women 
and  children  that  could  muster  a  horse  or  a  go-cart 
(and  many  walked),  turned  out  "to  a  man."  A  big 
circus  or  a  general  muster  never  drew  a  larger  assem- 
blage of  people  than  was  assembled  on  the  banks  of 
the  Big  Hatchie  on  that  memorable  day  to  see  the 
first  steamboat. 

From  Brownsville  they  had  gone  in  procession 
order,  with  banners  flying,  led  by  the  orator  of  the 
day,  Major  Hess,  who  had  been  chosen  to  welcome 
the  Captain  and  his  steamer,  the  Red  Rover,  in  an 
appropriate  speech.  The  day  was  propitious,  and 
everybody  that  could  go  was  there  and  in  waiting. 
Every  available  twig,  limb,  sappling  or  stake,  from 


ill  West  Ttimessee.  257 

the  river  bank  for  many  yards  back,  was  put  in 
requisition  to  hitch  and  fasten  the  horses  to. 

For  miles  below  the  ''puff"  of  the  boat  was  heard. 
With  steam  up  to  the  highest  gauge,  and  every 
pound  turned  on,  she  came  up  "  booming." 

Along  the  river  bank,  on  the  bluff',  and  every 
available  place  for  getting  a  sight,  was  crowded; 
many,  for  want  of  standing  room,  and  to  get  a  bet- 
ter view,  got  up  into  the  trees.  As  the  boat  ncared 
the  landing,  the  press  and  anxiety  to  see — to  get  the 
first  sight — became  intense.  Amid  shouts  and  yells 
she  hove  in  sight,  turning  the  bend  below  with  the 
last  inch  of  steam  turned  in  her  cylinder,  driving 
her  keel  through  the  swift  waters  of  the  Big  Hatchie, 
to  the  amazing  delight  of  tlie  hundreds  of  anxious, 
throbbing  hearts  that  stood  upon  the  bank. 

The  dexterous  pilot,  judging  well  the  place  of 
landing  as  indicated  by  where  the  largest  crowd 
was  standing,  w^ith  flyino^  banners  brought  her  to 
in  a  blaze  of  glory  amid  shouts  of  welcome.  Run- 
ning out  her  head  and  spring  lines  she  was  made 
fast.  The  populace  pressed  in  close  to  get  a  better 
sight,  as  well  as  to  hear  the  speech  of  welcome.  Just 
then  the  engineer  raised  his  valves  and  let  off  steam, 
and  the  scene  that  ensued  bci^gars  all  description. 
Men,  women  and  children  broke  as  for  dear  life, 
some  shrieking  and  screaming  amid  the  deafeuiug 
noise  of  the  blowing-off  sham,  which  had  reached 
its  culminating  point  in  the  boilers.  The  tVightened 
horses  had  broken  loose,  where  the}'  could,  and  were 
tearing  belter  skelter  through  the  woods  and  up  the 
road,  and  those  that  could  not  break  loose  were 


258  Remmiscences  of  Old  Times 

rearing,  pitching  and  dancing  around  the  trees  and 
places  that  held  them.  Everything  looked  as  thongh 
the  devil  had  broke  out  of  his  harness.  Many  were 
so  badly  frightened  that  they  did  not  stop  running 
or  look  back  until  they  v^ere  out  of  breath,  and  the 
frightened  liorses  never  stopj^ed  until  they  got  home. 

The  imagination  of  the  reader  may  run  riot  in 
picturing  himself  such  a  scene  as  is  here  attempted 
to  be  described,  which  occurred  in  real  life  forty- 
five  years  ago.  Not  one  in  thirty  of  those  who 
were  there  that  day  ever  saw  a  steamboat,  or  knew 
anything  about  them  save  through  scraps  in  the 
newspapers  describing  the  horrible  "blowing  up" 
and  destruction  of  life.  It  may  be  said  that  the 
"let-off  steam"  of  the  boats  in  those  days  was  in- 
comparably louder  than  now,  and  was  as  frightening 
then  as  a  "blow  up"  would  be  now. 

The  reception  proceedings  were  broken  up  for  that 
day.  The  Captain  and  his  officers  were  tendered  a 
dinner  at  Brownsville  the  next  day,  where  the  Cap- 
tain was  welcomed  and  toasted.  A  cotemporary 
of  "old  times"  promised  to  furnish  a  copy  of  Major 
Hess'  eloquent  speech  on  that  occasion,  which  is  yet 
preserved.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  it  could  not 
be  obtained,  together  with  the  proceedings  of  that 
memorable  day,  and  find  a  place  in  these  pages. 

Life,  when  viewed  through  the  dim  vista  of  by- 
gone days  with  attending  incidents,  often  appears  as 
a  curious  piece  of  fiction  wrought  from  a  feverish, 
dreamy  brain.  The  boys  who  walked  four  or  six 
miles  ("survivors  of  that  vast  gathering)  to  see  the 
first  steamboat,  whose  quick  and  elastic  step  is  now 


in  West  Tennessee.  259 

touched  by  gout  or  stifFoncd  by  the  long  walk  of 
time,  yet  retain  a  lively  recollection  of  the  am  using 
incidents  and  scenes  of  that  day,  while  little  hillocks 
and  white  stones  mark  what  remains  of  the  middle- 
aged  and  old,  save  the  fond  memories  of  affection 
and  love, 

Valentine  Sevier,  a  wit,  humorist  and  practical 
joker  of  no  mean  order,  yet  lives  in  the  memories 
of  "old  times  in  Brownsville."  A  decendant  of 
the  old  stock  of  Seviers,  who  began  life  in  Tennes- 
see when  it  was  "the  State  of  Franklin,  he  inher- 
ited his  full  share  of  the  genius  of  his  forefathers, 
with  the  wit  of  his  mother.  Brave  and  generous, 
life  with  Vol  was  ever  in  the  merry  sunshine. 

The  town  was  never  out  of  a  joke — a  fresh  one 
for  every  day  when  times  were  dull — during  his 
residence  in  it ;  the  old  and  young  came  in  for  a 
measure  of  his  wit.  His  manner,  so  frank  and  can- 
did, yet  grave  and  intensely  pious  when  need  be, 
that  the  victim  of  his  jokes  of  yesterday,  would  fall 
into  his  trap  set  for  him  the  next  day.  An  old  and 
respected  citizen  was  F.  S.  Cox,  long  the  postmaster 
at  Brownsville.  Cox  had  his  personality,  border- 
ing on  excentricities.  Kind-hearted  and  generously 
submissive  to  whatever  of  fun  that  grew  out  of  a 
joke  practiced  upon  him,  he  not  unfrequently  con- 
ceived himself  the  real  personage  of  a  witty  pun,  or 
become  seriously  affected  in  imagination,  by  an  inno- 
cent and  harmless  incident.  So  unsuspecting  was 
his  generous  nature,  that  he  often  became  a  victim 
to  Vol's  jokes.  Among  the  many  amusing  jokes 
perpretrated    upon    him,    the    following,   in    some 


260  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

degree,  illustrates  the  man.  One  August  afternoon 
he  was  returning  from  his  dinner,  when  near  the 
public  square,  he  came  to  a  little  white  fice  dog 
and  another  little  dog  grining  and  growling  at  each 
other  on  the  sidewalk.  In  passing,  they  were  in 
his  way;  he  gave  the  little  white  fellow  a  rough 
shove  with  his  foot,  when  the  little  dog  turned  and 
grabbed  him  by  the  calf  of  his  leg,  pinching  him  a 
little.  Passing  on,  he  paid  no  further  attention  to 
it.  Vol  Sevier  was  standing  in  Charley  Guyger's 
store  door  and  saw  it.  Picking  up  a  double-barrel 
shot  gun  that  set  near,  he  sliped  out  the  back  door, 
and  made  his  way  around  through  an  alley,  and 
came  up  in  a  hurried  walk  to  where  Cox  was  just 
joining  a  crowd  in  front  of  the  postoffice,  inquiring 
aloud,  as  he  came  up,  if  any  one  had  seen  a  little 
white  fice  dog.     Passing  up  to  Cox,  he  said: 

"  Mr.  Cox,  did  you  see  anything  of  a  little  white 
fice  dog  on  your  way  down  from  dinner?" 

"Yes,"  says  Cox,  "if  he  belongs  to  you.  Vol, 
you'll  find  him  down  there,"  pointing  to  where  he 
had  seen  him. 

"ISTo,"  says  Vol,  "he  is  not  mine,  but  I  am  after 
him  to  kill  him;  he  is  mad !" 

"  Mad !  did  you  say  ? "  says  the  postmaster,  gath- 
ering up  his  leg — "  mad  did  you  say  ? — hydrophobia ! 
hydrophobia!"  he  cried  out,  jumping  upon  one  leg, 
holding  on  to  the  other  until  he  reached  the  nearest 
seat.  "Tench,  Tench,  my  son,  I  am  bitten  by  a 
mad-dog,  my  son.  Oh !  hydrophobia !  hydrophobia ! 
run  my  son  for  the  doctor,  and  tell  him  I  am  bitten 
by  a  mad-dog." 


in  West  Tennessee.  261 

Tench  obeyed,  and  the  postmaster  hobbled  in  the 
back  room,  holding  on  to  his  bitten  leg.  In  the 
meantime  Vol  slipped  around  and  intercepted  the 
doctor,  and  gave  him  the  cue.  The  friends  of  Cox 
had  gathered  around  him,  not  suspecting  the  joke, 
and  wanted  to  see  where  and  how  he  had  been 
bitten. 

"No,"  said  Cox, holding  on  to  the  calf  of  his  leg  with 
both  of  his  hands,  "  wait  until  the  doctor  comes." 

The  doctor  soon  came  in  with  a  smile  in  his  eye. 
Cox  related  to  him  the  manner  and  Low  he  was 
bitten,  laying  himself  flat  of  his  back  on  a  cot 
for  the  doctor  to  examine  his  leg.  His  pantaloons 
were  carefully  drawn  off,  his  drawers  turned  up 
above  his  knee,  and  the  doctor  went  to  work  to 
examine  the  fatal  bite. 

*'  Whereabouts  is  it,"  says  the  doctor. 

"Right  there,"  says  Cox,  putting  his  hand  on  the 
calf  of  his  leg. 

"Well,"  says  the  doctor,  "take  your  hand  away, 
and  let  me  examine  it." 

The  doctor  looked  and  examined,  but  could  find 
no  bite  or  sign  of  a  dog's  tooth. 

"  Why,  Cox,  there  must  be  some  mistake.  There 
is  no  mark  of  a  dog's  tooth  on  this  leg." 

"  Yes  he  did  bite  me,  and  that  must  be  the  leg; 
it  was  the  nearest  to  him — there  is  no  mistake  about 
it,  I  am  bitten  by  a  mad-dog.  I  am  sure  that  I  am 
bitten,  for  I  felt  it  when  Vol  Sevier  told  me  the  dog 
was  mad." 

"Who  told  you  the  dog  was  mad?"  says  the 
doctor,  with  a  grip  upon  his  risable. 


262  Reminiscences  of  Old  Thnes 

"Yol  Sevier;  he  was  after  him  with  a  double- 
barrel." 

The     doctor  could   hold  in  no   longer,  bursting 
into  a  laugh,  he  said: 

"Why,  Cox,  you  are  only  bitten  by  one  of  Vol's 
jokes,  there  is  no  sign  of  a  dog  bite  on  your  leg." 

The  good-natured  postmaster  realizing  the  hoaks, 
dressed  himself  and  joined  his  friends  in  the  joke. 

Vol  played  a  joke  off  on  old  Robin,  a  notable 
character  of  "  old  times  "  in  Brownsville.  Robin 
was  familiarly  known  as  "Old  Herring  Bones,"  an 
appellation  he  inherited  from  his  native  State,  Xorth 
Carolina.  His  early  raising  was  near  the  herring 
shoals  of  the  old  North  State.  He  indignantly  re- 
sented the  slam  upon  his  nativity.  Known  and 
respected  for  his  age  and  fidelity  to  his  owners,  he 
became  a  sort  of  free  man  about  town  and  a 
privileged  character.  The  old  negro  swore  like  a 
trooper;  and  when  provoked  his  tongue  knew  no 
bounds.  Robin  always  walked  with  a  long  staff — 
sometimes  it  would  be  a  corn-stalk.  When  the 
boys  about  town  would  find  Robin  with  his  corn- 
stalk, they  would  poke  fun  at  him  by  calling  him 
"Old  Herring  Bones;"  when  he  would  lose  his 
self-command,  and  chase  them  to  the  school-room, 
or  some  safe  place  of  retreat.  Robin  claimed  revo- 
lutionary honors — that  he  served,  with  his  old 
master,  Macon,  in  the  Revolutionary  War.  He  was 
brought  to  Haywood  by  George  Jordan,  stepson  of 
Colonel  Mxon,  and  last  belonged  to  Colonel  Mans- 
field Ware,  who,  venerating  his  age  and  past  faithful 
services,  allowed  him  great  latitude  about  town. 


in  West  Tennessee.  263 

On  one  occasion  he  bought  for  Robin  the  cloth 
for  a  line  suit  of  clothes,  and  told  him  to  take  it 
over  to  Eddings'  tailor  shop  and  get  Mr.  Eddings  to 
take  his  measure  and  cut  them  out,  and  his  mistress 
would  have  them  made.  Robin  took  the  cloth  and 
walked  across  the  square  to  Eddings'  shop.  Mr. 
Eddings  was  out.  Yol  Sevier  happened  to  be  in  the 
shop  at  the  time. 

Robin,  after  waiting  some  time,  began  to  get  im- 
patient for  Eddings  to  return.  Vol  inquired  of  him 
what  he  wanted  with  Eddings.  Robin  told  him  that 
the  Colonel  had  bought  him  cloth  for  a  suit  of 
clothes,  and  sent  him  to  Mr.  Eddings  to  have  his 
measure  taken  and  the  suit  cut  out. 

"AYcll,"  sa^^s  Yol,  "Robin,  if  you  are  in  a  hurr^- 
I  can  take  your  measure,  and  when  Mr.  Eddings 
comes  in  he  can  cut  them  out." 

''What!  you  tailor,  Yol  Sevier?  You  no  tailor; 
no,  sir;  can't  spile  this  cloth,  that  you  won't." 

"But,"  says  Yol,  "Robin,  I  can  take  your  measr  re 
and  the  tailor  will  do  the  cutting." 

Yol's  manner  of  speech  became  convincing,  and 
removed  old  Robin's  doubts  as  to  his  ability  to  take 
his  measure.  He  hnally  consented,  if  he  would  be 
in  a  hurry  and  do  it  quick,  as  the  Colonel  would  be 
waiting  for  him. 

"  Well,"  says  Yol,  "take  off  your  coat  and  vest." 
Robin  did  as  he  was  told. 

"ISTow  take  off  your  pants  and  shirt,  Robin,"  says 
Yol. 

Robin  faltered,  and  began  to  doubt  whether  Yol 
knew  what  he  was  about.     Yol  soon  convinced  him, 


264  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

however,  that  he  did,  and  he  consented  to  take  off" 
everything  he  had,  if  Vol  would  only  he  in  a  hurry 
and  let  him  off  quick. 

The  old  negro  denuded  himself  of  his  shirt  and 
hreeches. 

"N'ow,"  says  Vol,  "Kobin,  get  up  on  this  broad 
table;  it  was  made  for  the  purpose."  Robin  did  as 
he  was  told. 

"  !N'ow  lay  flat  on  your  back." 

Robin  obeyed  as  a  medium  in  the  hands  of  a  mes- 
merizer. 

Vol  straightened  and  fixed  Robin's  legs  and  arras, 
and  taking  a  piece  of  chalk  commenced  taking  his 
measure.  Beginning  at  Robin's  head,  he  traced 
around  and  down  his  neck  to  his  shoulder,  then 
down  his  arm  and  round  up  to  his  arm-pit,  then 
down  his  body  and  around  his  hip  down  to  his  heel, 
thence  up  the  inside  of  the  leg  and  down  the  other 
leg  to  the  heel,  thence  up  the  other  side  as  before 
to  the  beginning. 

Just  as  he  was  makino^  the  finishino^  mark,  Colonel 
Ware  stepped  to  the  door  and  asked  for  Robin. 
The  old  negro  raised  himself  up  in  a  sitting  posture. 
The  Colonel,  comprehending  in  a  moment  what  Vol 
had  been  at,  commenced  scolding  Robin  for  allowing 
himself  to  be  made  a  fool  of  by  Vol  Sevier.  Robin, 
realizing  his  situ^ation  all  in  a  moment,  commenced 
cursing  Vol,  jumped  off'  the  bench,  and  gathered 
his  long  staff".  Vol,  understanding  old  Robin  when 
he  thought  fun  was  being  poked  at  him,  leaped  out 
of  the  front  door  and  ''Old  Herring  Bones"  after 
him,  and  the  Colonel  calling  to  old  Robin  to  come 


in  West  Tennessee.  265 

back  and  put  on  his  clothes,  an  old  fool,  and  go 
home. 

It  was  several  months  before  Vol  Sevier  would 
let  old  Robin  get  within  reach  of  him. 

"Old  times"  in  Brownsville  had  its  tailors,  sad- 
dlers, tanners,  ginmakers,  and  shoemakers,  but 
was  without  a  barber.  The  tailors,  on  account  of 
their  handling  the  scissors  well,  were  often  called 
on  to  do  the  hair-cutting;  sometimes  the  dexterous 
young  clerks,  who  always  had  sharp  scissors,  were 
called  on.  Vol  in  his  kind  offices  toward  his  fel- 
low-man, learned  to  handle  the  scissors,  and  was 
regarded  as  the  best  hair-cutter  in  town,  and  was 
often  called  upon  when  he  was  not  in  the  humor  for 
the  job.'  It  was  only  his  partial  friends,  and  they 
were  many,  that  he  would  barberize. 

There  came  to  Haywood,  most  every  fall,  a  hand- 
some young  man  from  Middle  Tennessee,  trading 
in  horses  and  mules.  He  had  made  the  acquaintance 
of  the  young  men  about  town,  and,  withal,  was  an 
agreeable  young  man,  and  a  pleasant  companion. 
He  dressed  well,  rode  a  fine  horse,  and  always 
had  money  in  his  pocket.  He  was  admitted  into 
society — just  enough  to  admit  of  his  maldng  the 
acquaintance  of  a  few  young  ladies. 

His  hair  needed  cutting  very  much;  learning  that 

Vol  was  an  expert  hair-cutter,  he  hunted  him  up. 

Vol,   with    a  half   dozen   or   more  gentlemen   of 
12 


266  Ttemmiscences  of  Old  Times 

leisure,  were  sitting  under  the  shade  trees,  before 
Welch's  tavern,  when  the  young  man  came  up. 
Approaching  him,  he  said  : 

"  Mr.  Sevier,  I  learn  from  your  friends  in  town 
that  you  are  in  the  habit  of  cutting  hair,  and  that 
you  are  the  best  cutter  in  town;  will  you  cut 
mine  ?"  Vol  threw  his  humorous  laughing  eye 
upon  the  handsome  young  trader  for  a  moment 
before  replying. 

"  I  hope  I  am  not  mistaken  in  the  gentleman  ; 
your  friend  Mr.  Cox,  the  postmaster,  pointed  you 
out  to  me,  and  told  me  you  were  the  best  hair-cut- 
ter in  town,  and  that  you  would  cut  it  for  me." 

Vol  had  decided,  telling  the  young  man  to  go  over 
to  Eddings'  tailor  shop,  and  get  a  pair  of  ^scissors. 
The  evening  was  pleasant,  and  by  the  time  the 
young  horse-trader  returned  with  the  scissors,  the 
crowd  under  the  shade  trees  had  increased  in  num- 
bers. The  young  man  returned,  his  face  beaming 
witli  delight.  Camp-meeting  was  going  on  out  at  the 
camp-ground,  and  he  wanted  to  look  his  best  the 
next  day.  Yol  rose  and  fixed  his  chair  for  the 
young  man  to  sit  in,  who,  taking  oiF  his  coat,  fixed 
himself  straight  up  and  was  ready  for  the  operation. 

Vol  pulled  off  his  coat,  and  commenced  without 
asking  him  how  he  wanted  it  cut.  His  hair  was  long 
and  bushey,  and  inclined  to  be  redish.  Vol  combed 
it  out  straight,  parting  it  in  the  middle   from  his 


in  West  Tennessee.  267 

forehead  to  the  nape  of  his  neck,  and  commenced 
on  one  side  where  it  was  parted,  and  Avorked  down 
to  his  ear.  As  the  scissors  clipped  off  the  last  long 
lock  on  that  side,  the  crowd  around  looking  on, 
began  to  giggle  and  snigger.  The  young  man, 
devining  that  it  was  something  about  his  head  they 
were  amusing  themselves  at,  put  his  hand  up  to  the 
barberized  side,  and  feeling  no  hair,  he  bursted  out 
into  a  rage  of  flaming  words,  jumped  up  and  swore 
that  it  was  an  outrage — "  that  he  had  rather  than 
the  price  of  his  fine  horse,  not  to  have  had  his  head 
ruined."  Yol,  in  his  bland  manner,  without  a 
smile,  while  the  bystanders  were  in  a  roar  of  laugh- 
ter, persuaded  the  young  man  that  his  hair  was  not 
"ruined,"  and  before  he  cut  the  other  side,  to  walk 
in  the  public  room  of  the  tavern,  where  he  woukl 
find  a  looking  glass,  and  he  would  see  that  it  was 
not  ^^  ruined.'' 

The  young  trader  took  him  at  his  word ;  went 
in  and  saw  himself  in  the  glass,  as  others  had  seen 
him.  He  grew  furious  and  uncontrolable ;  swore 
and  cursed  at  Sevier,  and  everybody  else,  but  par- 
ticularly at  Cox,  for  recommending  him  as  a  hair- 
cutter. 

He  swore  "if  anybody  would  fight  him,  he  would 
fight  the  whole  town." 

All  the  while  Vol  kept  his  face  un wrinkled,  per- 
suading the  young  man,  who  had  become  wild  with 


208  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

passion,  to  take  his  seat  and  let  him  finish  the  job. 

But  no!  he  would  not.  He  vowed  that  "he 
should  not  put  his  hand  on  his  head  again  or  cut 
another  hair." 

The  joke  had  taken  rather  deep  root,  and  seemed 
likely  to  become  serious.  However,  Vol  possessed 
great  fertility  of  expedient,  and  he  was  bound  to 
work  out  of  it.  Few  men  knew  better  the  workings 
of  the  human  passions.  A  master  performer  exer- 
cised not  more  power  over  his  instrument  than  he 
did  in  mastering  the  springs  of  feeling  and  thought 
of  his  subject,  or  with  whom  it  was  his  wont  to 
play.  His  joke  had  taken  well,  and  he  was  willing 
that  it  should  go  forth  as  a  preventive  to  future 
annoyances  in  the  way  of  hair-cutting.  Letting  the 
young  trader  rage  and  fume  until  the  mirthful 
crowd  were  satisfied  (which  satisfied  him),  remaining 
all  the  while  without  a  wrinkle  or  reflex  from  his 
face  to  show  that  it  was  purposed,  he  threw  his  en- 
chanting coils  around  his  green  subject,  and  seated 
him  again,  for  the  other  side  of  his  head  to  be  done 
likewise;  and  when  finished,  convinced  the  ow^ner 
of  a  well  shaved  head  that  it  became  him  admira- 
bly, which  was  attested  by  those  around  turning 
their  mirth  into  admiration  of  his  dexterity  in 
handling  the  scissors. 

Sevier  took  much  interest  in  things  about  town, 
and  frequently  contributed  to  the  interest  and  va- 


in  West  Temiessee.  269 

riety  of  the  local  trade.  To  exemplify  his  passion  in 
that  way,  an  anecdote  is  preserved  of  him,  in  which 
he  caused  his  friend  Cox  to  become  the  contributor.. 
Cox  was  concerned  in  the  tanning  business,  and 
was  the  largest  purchaser  of  green  hides  in  town. 
It  was  customary  to  weigh  and  sell  the  horns  with 
the  hide  at  the  established  price.  Vol  happened  to 
be  down  at  the  tanyard  one  day  when  a  lot  of  hides 
belonging  to  an  honest,  hard-working  countryman 
were  being  weighed  and  delivered.  He  noticed  one 
of  them  without  horns — the  hide  of  a  w.uley  cow  or  ox. 
The  country  gentleman  took  the  weight  of  the  hides 
and  went  up  town  to  get  his  pay  from  Cox.  Vol 
went  along  with  him.  Going  along,  he  suggested 
to  the  owner  of  the  hides  that  he  was  entitled  to 
homage  on  one  of  his  hides. 

"What?"  says  the  countryman,  "how!  what  did 
you  say?" 

"  Homage^''  says  Vol.  "  One  of  your  hides  was  a 
mulej^ — didn't  have  any  horns.  It  is  worth  moi-c^ 
than  those  with  horns.  So,  when  Mr.  Cox  goes  to 
pay  you,  you  must  claim  homage." 

The  hide  vendor  understood  it.  Handing  in  the 
weights,  the  calculation  at  so  much  a  pound  was 
made  and  the  money  being  counted  out,  when  the 
country  gentleman  stated  to  Mr.  Cox  that  he  was 
entitled  to  homage  on  one  of  the  hides — that  it  was 
a  muley  hide. 


270  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

"Homage!  wliat?^'  says  Cox;  "who  ever  heard 
of  such  a  thing  as  homage?" 

•'1  have,"  says  the  gentleman  seller,  "and  you 
have  got  to  pay  me  homage  on  that  muley  hide." 

In  the  meantime  Vol  stepped  in,  and  his  friend 
Cox  appealed  to  him,  to  know  if  such  a  thing  was 
ever  heard  of  before,  and  what  he  thought  about  it. 

"Yes,"  says  Vol,  "it's  right."  "Homage"  was 
established  in  the  tanyard  thereafter,  upon  Vol's 
decision. 


171  West  Tennessee,  271 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Fayette^  Its  Geographical  and  Topographical  Features — 
County  Sites  Established  for  Seven  Counties — L.  P. 
Williamson — Hardeman — Bolivar — EzekialPolk — Jack- 
son—  Colonel  C.  D.  McLean, 

Fayette. — The  year  after  the  Chickasaw  title  to  the 
lands  ill  "West  Tennessee  was  extinguished  by  the 
United  States  government  (in  1818),  by  an  act  of 
the  Legislature,  the  territory  embracing  the  present 
limits  of  Fayette,  Hardeman,  McNary  and  Shelby, 
was  attached  to  Hardin,  and  comprehended  Hardin 
county.  Afterward,  and  during  the  period  of  the 
same  session,  by  a  supplemental  act,  the  present 
limits  of  Shelby  was  defined  and  fixed. 

In  1821  Shelby  county  was  established,  and  the 
territory  now  forming  the  counties  of  Fayette  and 
Tipton,  was  attached,  and  Hardeman  and  Haywood 
attached  to  Madison. 

In  1822  Hardeman  was  established,  then  embrac- 
ing the  territory,  which,  the  year  following  (1823), 
was  laid  off  and  erected  into  a  county,  and  called 
" Fayette''^  in  honor  of,  and  for  • 

GENERAL   LAFAYETTE, 

who,  the  year  following,  was  the  '•'' nation^ s  guest.'^ 


272  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

In  the  year  1824,  the  counties  of  Fayette,  Harde- 
man, Haywood,  Tipton,  Dyer  and  Gibson,  became 
separate  and  independent  counties,  with  separate 
judicial  jurisdiction.  Previous  to  that  period,  and 
up  to  1821,  the  inhabitants  of  the  territory,  now 
Fayette  county,  were  embraced  within  the  jurisdic- 
tion of  Hardin;  and  from  1821  to  the  period  when  it 
was  established  as  a  separate  county,  under  the 
jurisdiction  of  the  courts  of  Shelby. 

In  the  same  year  (1824)  commissioners  were 
appointed  by  the  Legislature  to  locate  and  establish 
county  sites  for  the  new  counties  embraced  in  the 
act  of  that  year. 

In  1825,  Somerville  was  established  as  the  perma- 
nent county  site  for  Fayette,  and  the  lots  were  sold 
by  the  commissioners,  appointed  by  the  county 
court,  in  September  of  that  year.  It  is  worthy  of 
note,  that  the  county  sites  for  the  counties  of  Hay- 
wood, Tipton,  Obion,  Hardeman,  Gibson,  Dyer  and 
Fayette,  were  located  and  established  in  the  same 
year.  Commissioners  by  the  several  county  courts 
were  appointed  to  lay  off  the  towns  and  sell  the 
lots,  the  several  sites  having  been  located  upon 
grounds  donated   for  that  purpose. 

The  commissions  forBrownsville,  Haywood  county, 
were  L.  McGuire,  K  T.  Perkins,  WiUiam  II.  Hen- 
derson and  Thomas  G.  Kixon,  and  the  sale  took 
place  the  third  Monday  m  March. 


in  West  Tennessee.  273 

The  commissioners  for  Covington,  Tipton  county, 
were  Marcus  Calmes,  Robert  G.  Green,  John  Eck- 
ford,  Alex.  Robinson  and  E.  T.  Pope ;  sale  twelfth 
of  April. 

The  commissioners  for  Dresden,  Obion  county, 
were  John  Terrell,  John  Schultz,  Mear  Warner, 
Ferry  Vincent  and  Martin  Lawler;  sale  fourteenth 
of  April. 

For  Bolivar,  Hardeman  county,  Thomas  J.  Har- 
deman, John  H.  Bills,  IS'at  Steel,  West  Harris  and 
John  T.  Cockran;  sale  on  twenty-second  of  April. 

For  Gibsonport,  Gibson  county,  J.  B.  Hogg, 
William  C.  Love,  John  W.  Evans,  Robert  Finkle 
and  John  P.  Thomas;  sale  July  twentieth. 

For  Dyersburg,  Dyer  county,  J.  Rutherford, 
Griffin  Rutherford,  Ben  Porter,  Wilham  Martin  and 
Thomas  ISTash;  sale  twenty-sixth  of  July. 

Commissions  for  Somerville,  were  Henry  Kirk, 
Daniel  Johnson,  Hamilton  Thornton,  William  Owen 
and  John  T.  Patterson;  sale  on  the  fourteenth  day 
of  September. 

During  that  year  (1825)  immigration  to  the  new 
counties  exceeded  any  other  year. 

Fayette — the  territory  embraced  within  the  limits 
of  Fayette,  bordering  north  on  the  waters  of  the  Big 
Hatchie,  south  by  the  pure  silvery  watei^s  of  the 
Wolf,  the  Loosa  Hatchie,  with  its  numerous  feeders, 
rising  up  through   the  center — no  county  in   West 


274  Beminiscences  of  Old  limes 

Tennessee  was  more  inviting  to  the  early  immigrant 
settler,  or  could  boast  of  richer  virgin  lands,  peculi- 
arly adapted  to  Southern  agriculture,  and  capable  of 
sustaining  a  large  population.  Settled  by  men  of 
enterprise,  intelligence  and  wealth,  it  early  took  a 
stand  among  the  most  favored  counties  in  the  dis- 
trict, noted  for  the  refined,  cultivated  taste  and 
good  morals  of  its  citizens.  Prominent  among  the 
early  pioneer  settlers  of  Fayette  worthy  of  honorable 
mention,  and  whose  long  and  useful  life,  beginning 
with  his  early  manhood,  was  the  late 

LEWIS  p.  WILLIAMSON. 

With  an  energy  and  enterprise  unknown  to  the 
present  age,  he  exchanged  the  luxuries  and  com- 
forts, the  pleasures  and  enjo^^ments  of  a  cultivated 
and  refined  society  in  the  "Old  Korth  State"  for 
the  hardships,  dangers  and  difiiculties  incident  to 
the  early  settlers  in  the  wilds  of  West  Tennessee. 
His  boyhood  days  spent  in  his  native  State,  North 
Carolina,  his  early  manhood  at  "  Yale,"  where  he 
graduated  with  honors  in  his  twentieth  year ;  he  re- 
turned to  his  native  home,  an  elected  member 
to  the  State  Legislature  before  he  was  twenty-one 
years  of  age.  iSTine  miles  northwest  of  Somer- 
ville  he  fixed  his  residence,  in  the  loveliest  spot  in 
the  wilderness,  and  built  him  a  round-log  house  loith 
a  imssage  in  the  middle,  like  other  new  comers  of  that 
day,  and  called  it  '*  Ivenness,"  alter  a  }ilace  in  (Jld 


in  West  Tennessee.  275 

Scotland,  from  which  his  wife's  ancestors  emi- 
grated, where  he  with  his  happy  tamilj  lived,  im- 
proving and  beautifying  it  until  his  death,  which 
occurred  in  1865,  having  lived  three  score  and  four 
years,  and  the  last  forty  in  Fayette. 

Mr.  Williamson  was  a  ripe  scholar,  a  polished 
writer,  ^n  eloquent  speaker  and  ready  debater.  He 
several  times  represented  his  fellow-citizens  of  Fay- 
ette in  the  State  Legislature  with  notable  ability. 
He  was  the  author  of,  and  secured  to  West  Tennes- 
see the  first  railroad  charter,  the  Memphis  and 
LaGrange  railroad ;  which  was  afterward  adopted, 
and  formed  a  part  of  the  Memphis  and  Charleston 
railroad. 

In  the  early  days  of  Whigery  he  entered  the  field 
of  politics,  under  the  banner  of  "Harry  of  the 
West,"  and  became  a  candidate  for  Congress.  His 
glowing  eloquence  in  the  cause  of  Whigery — in 
advocating  and  maintaining  the  principles  of  govern- 
ment as  taught  by  the  great  statesmen,  Webster 
and  Clay — distinguished  him  as  a  man  of  merit,  and 
eminent  among  the  first  men  of  West  Tennessee. 
Koted.for  his  refined,  cultivated  taste,  strict  moral 
deportment,  and  his  utter  abhorrence  of  "grog-shops  " 
(he  was  a  great  advocate  in  the  cause  of  temperance), 
he  relied  alone  upon  his  personal  merit  and  the  just- 
ness of  his  cause  for  votes.  In  the  celebrated 
canvass  in  which  he  made  a  distinguishing  mark  as 


276  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

a  speaker  and  ready  debater,  C.  II.  Williams,  of 
Madison,  and  W.  C.  Dunlap,  of  Shelby,  were  his 
opponents.  Williams  was  of  the  same  school  of 
politics  with  himself,  and  Dunlap  a  Democrat.  Mr. 
Williamson  and  Mr.  Dunlap  made  the  canvass  of 
the  district  together,  on  horseback.  Personally 
warm  and  fast  friends,  an  anecdote  is  told  of  them, 
illustrative  of  the  men  and  mode  of  electioneering. 
Traveling  together  one  day,  they  came  to  a  cross- 
roads store,  where  liquor  was  kept  also.  Colonel 
Dunlap,  forgetting  nothing  of  the  qualities  constitu- 
ting a  successful  canvasser  for  votes,  discovering 
several  men  standing  in  the  store  door,  halted  as 
they  rode  up  in  front,  remarking  to  his  friend 
Williamson  that  he  felt  dry — that  if  he,  being  a 
temperance  man,  would  hold  his  horse  for  a 
moment,  he  would  get  down  and  "  take  a  drink." 
The  kind  Mr.  Williamson  readily  consented. 

Colonel  Dunlap  dismounted,  and  witli  a  generous, 
smiling  face  entered  the  store.  Calling  for  a  drink, 
he  turned  to  the  bystanders,  and  said: 

"Gentlemen,  join  me — candidate  for  Congress — 
passing  through  your  country— glad  to  make  ac- 
quaintances.     Come,  gents,  join  me  in  a  drink." 

He  was  of  course  joined  by  half  a  dozen  or  more 
hardy  voters,  they  thinking  it  was  their  rightful 
duty  to  drink  a  candidate's  liquor.  While  all  were 
tilling  their  glasses  and  exchanging  glances  at  each 


in  West  Tennessee.  277 

■t 

other,  the    Colonel,  throwing   his   eyes   across   his 

shoulder,  remarked : 

"  See  that  man  on  his  horse?  lie  is  a  temperance 
man;  delivers  a  fine  temperance  speech.  He 
wouldn't  be  caught  in  such  a  place  as  this  for  all 
the  votes  in  the  neighborhood.  lie  is  my  opponent. 
My  name  is  William  C.  Dunlap,  candidate  for  Con- 
gress— good  day,  gentlemen;  I  can't  be  with  you 
longer;  my  friend  is  holding  my  horse." 

Mr.  Williamson's  devotion  to  the  case  of  Whigery 
induced  him  to  retire  from  the  canvass  in  favor  of 
his  political  confrere,  Colonel  Williams,  when  his 
prospects  of  election  were  considered  brighter  than 
any  other  candidate  in  the  field.  His  compass  of 
mind  fitted  him  for  every  intellectual  pursuit.  His 
rare  business  capacity  and  refined  cultivated  taste  was 
evidenced  in  the  management  of  his  agricultural 
and  domestic  affairs  and  the  beautifying  of  the 
home  of  his  family. 

It  was,  perhaps,  in  the  year  1856-57,  that  the 
Agricultural  Bureau  of  the  State  oftered  a  prize  for 
the  best  agricultural  essay  and  address  on  the  occa- 
sion of  the  Fair  held  that  year  at  Jackson.  The 
contestants  were  Governor  James  C.  Jones,  Gov- 
ernor A.  A.  Brown  and  Lewis  P.  Williamson.  The 
prize  was  awarded  to  Mr.  Williamson,  and  ordered 
printed  in  the  report  of  the  Agricultural  Bureau. 

As  a  Christian  gentleman,  worthy  and  honorable 


278  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

in  every  pursuit  in  life,  no  more  fitting  tribute  and 
eulogy  upon  his  fair  name  and  character  could  be 
offered  than  the  following  quotation  the  writer  is 
permitted  to  make  from  a  touching  letter  from  his 
widow,  after  his  death,  to  a  friend,  and  who  survived 
him  but  a  few  years.     She  says : 

"From  the  period  of  his  conversion  throughout 
his  whole  life  he  was  a  Christian  in  the  sublime  and 
exalted  spiritual  sense  of  the  word,  and  was  ever 
ready  to  give  a  reason  for  the  faith  that  was  in  him 
with  meekness  and  fear.  While  his  worth  was  like 
a  heajp  of  gold  that  could  not  he  counted,  the  great  char- 
acteristic feature  of  his  noble  nature  was  his  disin- 
terested benevolence.  From  the  time  he  left  college 
up  to  the  close  of  his  useful  life,  he  had  the  care  of 
the  widow  and  the  orphan,  managed  a  great  many 
estates  for  rich  and  poor,  and  never  accepted  com- 
pensation save  in  one  instance,  when  it  was  forced 
upon  him.  His  labors  of  love  and  works  of  good- 
ness were  abundant,  and  known  only  to  the  few,  for 
all  were  done  in  a  quiet,  unostentatious  manner,  not 
letting  his  left  hand  know  what  his  right  hand  did. 
But  his  work  is  with  liis  God,  and  his  record  is  on 
high ! " 

HARDEMAN. 

In  1822  Hardeman  was  formed,  and  the  counties 
bordering  on  the  Hatchie  extending  to  the  Missis- 
sippi, including  Shelby,  were  attached  for  judicial 


In  West  Tennessee.  279 

purposes.  The  courts  were  held  at  "  Ilatchie  Town  " 
until  1824,  when  Bolivar  was  laid  oiF  and  established 
as  the  county  site.  The  county  was  named  for 
Thomas  Hardeman,  member  from  the  county  of 
Davidson  to  the  first  territorial  convention,  held  at 
Knoxville  on  the  11th  of  January,  1796,  to  frame  a 
constitution  preparatory  to  Tennessee  becoming  a 
State,  and  the  town  of  Bolivar  was  called  for  the 
great  "liberator  of  his  country,"  Simon  Bolivar,  the 
hero  of  South  America. 

BOLIVAR 

was  a  Venezu clean,  born  in  Carraccas  in  the  year 
1785.  Of  noble  blood,  he  was  educated  in  the  re- 
fined courts  of  Europe,  a  companion  and  traveler 
with  Humboldt.  When  in  his  twenty-sixth  year 
he  returned  to  his  natal  land,  offered  his  services  to 
the  Congress  of  Grenada  to  rid  his  country  of  the 
Spanish  yoke,  and  with  six  hundred  men  marched 
against  the  great  Spanish  General  Morillo.  After 
eleven  years  struggle  with  varied  successes,  he 
finally  triumphed  over  Morillo  and  his  Spanish 
troops,  confirming  the  title  which  had  been  given 
him  of  being  the  "liberator  of  his  country." 

N'oted  among  the  first  settlers  in  Hardeman  wi\s 

COLONEL    EZEKIEL    POLK. 

The  advanced  as:e  to  which  Colonel  Polk  had  Jit- 
tained  Avhen  braving  the  trials  and  hardships  inci- 
dent to  pioneer  life,  in   bringhig  the  ax  and  plow 


280  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

where  alone  the  savage  hunter's  footpriiits  had  trod 
the  wilderness — the  haunts  of  the  wild  beast — 
marked  the  strong  and  inflexible  will  and  indomita- 
ble energy  of  the  man.  Colonel  Polk's  early  life, 
his  habits  and  proclivities,  had  fitted  him  for  such 
an  undertaking.  A  revolutionary  patriot,  he  had 
served  with  the  rank  of  Captain  and  promoted  to 
that  of  Colonel  in  our  struggle  for  independence. 

He  was  a  member  of  the  first  convention  held  in 
South  Carolina  to  take  measures  against  British 
encroachments.  With  a  widely-extended  and  intel- 
ligent understanding,  he  displayed  a  sound  judgment 
in  the  management  of  his  affairs,  marked  with  strong 
idiosyncrasys  of  character,  as  was  notably  attested 
by  his  writing  his  own  epitaph.  As  a  curious  piece 
of  literature  of  *'  old  times  in  the  Big  Hatchie  coun- 
try," it  is  here  reproduced  for  the  amusement  and 
interest  of  the  reader,  without  comment: 

"  Lines  to  be  inscribed  on  the  grave-stone  of  E. 
Polk,  written  by  himself  June  24th,  1821,  in  the 
seventy-fourth  year  of  his  age  : 

"  Here  lies  the  dust  of  old  E.  P., 
One  instance  of  morjility  ; 
Pennsylvania  born,  Carolina  bred  ; 
In  Tennessee  died  upon  his  bei. 
His  youthful  days  he  spent  in  pleasure, 
His  latter  days,  in  g.ithering  treasure; 
From  superstition  lived  quite  free. 
And  practiced  strict  morality. 


in  West  Tennessee.  281 

To  holy  cheats,  was  never  willing, 

To  give  one  solitary  shilling. 

He  can  foresee,  and  foreseeing, 

He  equals  most  men  in  being. 

That  church  and  State,  will  join  their  power, 

And  misery  on  this  country  shower  ; 

The  Methodist,  with  their  camp-brawling, 

"Will  be  the  cause  of  this  downfalling  ; 

An  error  not  destined  to  see, 

He  wails  for  poor  posterity  ; 

First  fruits  and  tenths  are  odious  things. 

And  so  are  bishops,  tithes,  and  kings. 

As  there  are  no  rocks  in  this  country  fit  for 
grave-stones,  let  it  be  done  on  durable  wood,  well 
painted,  and  placed  upright  at  my  head,  and  a 
weeping  willow  planted  at  my  feet." 

The  Colonel  died  three  years  afterward;  this, 
among  his  last  injunctions,  was  obeyed. 

JACKSON. 

Jackson,  Madison  county,  the  abode  of  ease,  ele- 
gance and  refind  civilized  enjoyment,  the  homes  of 
the  interprising  and  intelligent,  the  beautiful  and 
cultivated,  the  seat  of  learning  and  temple  of  the 
law,  was  the  first  hahitahle  town  in  West  Tennessee. 
It  was  peopled  before  Browns\Hdle,  Covington, 
Somerville,  Bolivar  and  other  county  towns,  had  a 
local  habitation,  or  a  name,  by  the  best  families, 
from  the  old  States.  It  was  there  the  first  courts  of 
law  were  organized  and  the  first  academy  of  learn- 
ing established,  and  gave  birth  to  the  first  neiospaper 


282  Bnmmsceiicrs  of  Old  Times 

published   in    West   Tennessee.     It  stands   to-day, 
with  its   blocks  of  brick  and  mortar,  fashioned  in 
the  most  approved  taste  and  style  of  modern  archi- 
tecture— its  fine   public  buildings,  and  private  resi- 
dences, with    its    enterprise  in    manufactures   and 
commerce,  thrift  and  wealth,  second  only  to  Mem- 
phis, with   its  many  moie    advantages,  beside  the 
great  "  inland  sea."  rolling  past  its  front.     Yet  it  is 
within  the  recollection  of  the  writer,  when  it  was 
but  a  hamlet  on  the  ban  ks  of  the  south  fork  of  Forked 
Deer,  dependent  for  its  sugar  and  coffee  upon  the  navi- 
gation by  "  keel  boats"  of  that  little  tortuous  stream. 
It  is  regretted — the  more  to  be  regretted,  as  ''  old 
times  in  West  Tennessee  "  had  its  birth  at  Jackson — 
that  the  reminiscences  and  incidents   of  early  life 
in  that  place  is  debarred  its  full  share  in  the  pages 
of  this  little  volume.     Should  the  theme  which  has 
engaged  the  pen  and  interest  of  the  writer,  find 
favor  with  the  readers  of  these  "  reminiscences  in 
the  Big  liatchie  country,"  he  may  be  encouraged  to 
a  larger  and  more  inviting  field,  w^hich  \\\\[  take 
Jackson  and  Madison  county  as  the  starting  point, 
and   "work     up    the     timber,"    according    to    the 
original   "  blazes^."      The   apology,   if   indeed,    an 
apology  be  necessary,  for  going  to  Jackson,  is  to 
make    honorable   mention    of  one    of  the   pioneer 
newspaper  men  of  West  Tennessee  (and   the  first 
paper  published  in  the  district) 


in  West  Tmnesscv.  283 

CHARLES    D.    M'lEAN, 

''  the  best  in  the  world,"  whose  long  and  iisefu 
life  has  been  spared  through  the  vicissitudes  and 
gradations  of  establishing  a  country,  wrought  from 
the  wilds  of  a  savage  territory  into  a  highly 
improved  State,  teeming  with  wealth  and  popula- 
tion— the  work  of  only  a  half  century.  But  few 
men  are  older,  and  who  have  been  longer  connected 
with  the  early  and  late  history  of  A^^est  Tennessee 
than  Colonel  McLean.  A  native  of  Virginia,  he  was 
born  in  the  year  1795.  Emigrating  to  West  Ten- 
nessee, he  settled  in  Jackson  in  1823-4.  On  the 
twenty-ninth  day  of  May,  1824,  he,  with  Elijah 
Bigelow,  issued  the  first  number  of  the  Jackson 
Gazette,  which  was  continued  to  be  published 
under  his  supervision  and  management  until  the 
year  1830,  when  it  came  under  the  editorial  man- 
agement of  the  late  J.  H.  McMahon,  and  its  title 
changed  to  that  of  the  Truth  Teller.  The  Gazette 
was  the  immediate  successor  to  the  Pioneer,  the  first 
newspaper  published  at  Jackson,  which  ceased  to 
be  published  after  the  death  of  its  editor,  occurring 
in  a  few  months  after  the  first  number  was  issued. 
The  Gazette  was  the  only  paper  published  in  the 
district  for  several  years.  It  was  published  in  the 
interest  of  General  Jackson  and  David  Crockett, 
from  1824  to  1830  inchisive;  the  files  of  which  is 
yet   preserved  by    Colonel    McLean  as  a   relic   of 


284  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

"  old  times  "  in  West  Tennessee,  and  is  a  welcome 
guest  among  the  "  Old  Folks  at  Home,"  of  which 
he  is  their  honorable  President,  and  ranks  the 
oldest.  Colonel  McLean  was  honored  by  a  seat  in 
the  State  Legislature,  from  the  county  of  Madison, 
during  his  residence  iii  that  county.  Li  the  year 
1833,  he  fixed  his  place  of  residence  in  the  vicinity 
of  Memphis,  where  he  continues  to  reside.  Hav- 
ing lived  to  a  green  old  age,  his  venerable  form, 
beginning  to  bend  a  little  with  the  weight  of  many 
long  years  of  usefulness,  may  be  seen  on  the  streets 
of  Memphis  every  bright  day,  enjoying  life  in  a 
good  joke,  "  the  best  in  the  world,"  which  is  the 
Colonel's  universal  response  to  an  old  friend,  when 
inquiring  as  to  his  health — it  is  always  the  "  best  in 
the  world." 


in  West  Tennessee,  285 


CIIAPTEK  XIY. 

Bright  and  Lasting  Memories  of  Youth — Linking  the 
Past  with  the  Present — The  Old  Log  Schoolhouse — 
The  School- Path  and  Play- Ground — Demanding  a 
Bay's  Holiday — Barring  Out  the  Schoolmaster. 

The  most  lasting  of  memories  graven  upon 
the  young  mind — the  scenes  and  incidents  of  young 
Ufe — become  brighter  and  fresher  in  after  life,  link- 
ing, by  fond  and  endearing  memories,  the  past  with 
the  present,  forgetful  of  the  long  intervening  years 
of  pain,  peril  and  strife.  With  the  vision  of  the 
past,  the  aged  look  back  through  the  dim  vista  to 
the  days  of  their  youth,  as  a  bright  thrilling  dream, 
enchanted  by  its  memories,  as  a  lover  in  pursuit  of 
the  object  of  his  aflections — ^bright  pictures  upon 
the  unstained  v^alls  of  youthful  memory  most  truth- 
ful in  nature. 

The  old  schoolhouse,  where  they  first  learned  to 
"  spell  baker,"  the  play-ground  with  its  scenes  and 
incidents,  the  big  spring  and  the  sparkling  spring- 
branch,  rippling  over  its  pebbly  bed  through  the 
deep  shades  of  the  forest  to  the  creek,  where  at 
sumnier's-noon  they  learned  to  "swim;"  the 
school-path,  narrow  and  winding  through  pleasant 


286  Reininisceiices  of  Old  Times 

grounds  made  hard  and  smooth  by  the  daily  tramp 
of  many  little  feet ;  the  "  foot-log  "  across  the  deep 
creek,  where  they  were  wont  to  stop  and  cast  peb- 
bles into  its  bright  waters,  or  amuse  themselves 
with  the  schools  of  little  fishes  rising  to  the  surface 
to  gather  the  crumbs  from  their  '^school-basket;" 
the  five  and  thirty  '^  school  boys "  banding 
together,  to  demand  of  the  ''  schoolmaster"  a  day's 
holiday  to  go  to  a  log-rolling  or  house-raising ;  or, 
perchance,  to  a  fish-fry,  or  a  shooting  match,  and 
he,  in  his  individual  sovereignty  protesting  against 
their  juvenile  wishes — their  natural  rights.  The 
final  decision  taken,  the  early  gathering  of  the  boys 
at  the  "  schoolhouse ;  "  the  barring  of  the  doors  and 
windows;  the  anxious  waiting,  and  appearance  of 
the  "  old  schoolmaster,"  as  he  rises  the  hill ;  his 
wroth  and  angry  will  at  being  barred  out  of  his 
rightful  castle,  and  being  dethroned  of  his  authority 
— he  demands  entrance,  denouncing  the  "  assumed 
rights,"  declares  it  a  revolt,  and  threatens  vengeance 
upon  the  leading  rebels;  the  whole  school  backs 
up  the  leaders,  while  they  stand  pleading  through 
the  open  cracks  in  the  logs,  disclaiming  ill-will,  and 
expressing  their  perfect  willingness  "  to  submit  to  his 
rule  and  discipline  to-morrow ;  "  the  schoolmaster 
still  refuses,  holds  on  to  his  iron  will,  and  renews  his 
threats  of  punishment;  he  rto  the  boys  to  more 
desperate  measures;   the   final   catastrophe   culmi- 


m  Wfst  Tennessee.  287 

nates,  the  doors  are  unbarred,  and  the  five  and 
thirty  heretofore  obedient  scholars  gather  round 
the  schoolmaster,  a  half  dozen  of  the  largest  gather 
liim  up  upon  their  shoulders,  and  he  is  borne  away 
to  the  creek — the  usual  place  of  going  in  swimming. 
The  old  incorrigible  kicks  and  writhes,  threatening 
vengeance;  the  pool  is  reached,  and  the  whole 
school  cry  out,  "  souse  him — souse  him ;  it  will  cool 
him  off;  "  the  hard-hearted  "  schoolmaster  "  begins 
to  soften;  the  tyrant  begins  to  beg  and  promise 
to  let  them  have  the  day.  Too  late,  too  late,  souse — 
he  goes  under !  "  Souse  him  again  !  "  by  the  whola 
school.  Imploringly  he  cries,  "stop  !  hold!  do  it  no 
more  and  you  shall  have  a  wreck's  holiday."  That 
will  do — let  him  oft",  let  him  off,"  was  the  verdict  of 
the  school.  Smiling  and  good  natured  he  clambers 
up  the  bank,  and  all  hands  join  in  expressing  good 
will,  with  promises  to  be  punctual  to  school  Monday 
morning,  and  study  hard. 

The  most  joyous  and  happy  gatherings  of  the 
neighborhood,  in  "  old  times,"  were  at  the  quiltings. 
It  was  seldom  that  the  young  people  in  the  settle- 
ments got  together  except  at  a  quilting  frolic. 
During  the  early  winter  months  a  week  never  passed 
without  a  quilting,  which  always  ended  in  a  dancing 
frolic,  followed  soon  by  several  weddings.  It  was 
common,  during  the  "  log-rolling  "  season,  for  quilt- 
ing to  be  going  on  at  the  house  while  the  men  were 


288  Beminiscenees  of  Old  Times  ^ 

out  in  the  field  or  new-ground  rolling  logs.  It  was 
usual  to  invite  the  whole  settlement  to  a  log-rolling 
— the  men  to  come  and  bring  their  wives  and 
daughters.  It  was  always  the  occasion  of  a  big 
dinner.  The  field-work  done,  and  the  quilt  finished, 
everything  was  cleared  away  for  the  hardy  young  men 
and  girls  to  have  their  frolic.  A  fiddler  who  could 
play  two  or  more  tunes  was  always  on  hand.  It 
would  puzzle  the  "pleasing  recollections"  of  "old 
times"  to  treasure  up  the  varied  innocent  country 
amusements  that  brooded  over  the  land.  The  fair 
and  happy  country  lass  thought  not  of  making  herself 
beautiful  by  art.  Her  plump,  glowing  cheeks  put  to 
blush  the  face-physic,  common  to  "dressy"  young 
women  of  the  present  day.  Unwittingly  they 
romped  and  played,  unmindful  of  the  outside  tissue 
or  tinsel;  decked  in  innocence,  she  doth  all  things 
sweet  and  graceful; 

" to  paint  the  lily  ; 

To  throw  a  perfume  on  the  violet, 

to  add  another  hue 

Unto  the  rainbow 

As  wasteful,  and  ridiculous  excess," 

OUR     MOTHER. 

Gentle  reader,  the  strongest  and  most  enduring 
passion  of  the  human  heart  is  for  our  mother. 

"  AH  other  passions  fleet  to  air," 

Sweet,  endearing  memories  of  our  mother,  who 


in  West  Tennessee.  289 

loved  us  ere  we  had  a  being,  from  whom  we  drew 
our  young  life — thy  image,  the  brightest  engraven 
upon  "  memories  wall,"  becoming  brighter — unfad- 
ing and  undimmed  by  time,  is  embalmed  in  the 
heart's  affection.  That  little  hillock  raised  upon 
the  bosom  of  mother  earth,  overgrown  with  green 
moss,  or  decked  with  flowers,  marks  her  last  resting 
place;  it  has  for  us  a  resistless  charm — we  would  not 
ask 

" to  give  us  back  our  dead  ; 

Even  in  the  loveliest  looks  they  were." 

Through  all  the  wanderings  and  varied  mazes 
our  wayward  feet  have  trodden  since  our  youth,  the 
image  and  sweet  memories  of  our  mother  endear- 
eth ;  growing  brighter  and  more  lovely  as  the  hair 
upon  our  heads  takes  upon  it  the  frosts  of  many, 
many  winters. 

Reader,  are  you  ever  reminded  of  your  mother, 

unbent  and  stately — stately  among  the  stateliest, 

with  elastic  step,  easy  under  the  weight  of  venerable 

years — as  she  moves  with  an  ear  at  all  times  kindly 

open,  and  a  heart  generous,  loving  to  the  prattle 

and  whims  of  her  children's  children,  her  grand 

and  great  grandchildren,  in  their  shining  new  frocks 

and  clean  white  aprons,  vieing  with  each  other  as 

to  who  should  do  this  or  who  that  for  her  ?     They 

were  very  sunshine  to  her  in  the  vale  and  shadows 

of  her  last  days.     Such  are  the  sweet  memories  of 
13 


290  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

my  motlier  when  last  I  saw  her  in  life.  May  I  not 
claim,  in  filial  respect  to  her  memory,  the  mention 
of  her  name  in  these  pages  as  one  of  the  brave- 
hearted  mothers  and  wives  who  shared  with  their 
husbands  and  sons  the  perils  and  hardships  of  the 
pioneer  settler's  life  in  the  Big  Hatchie  country  ? 
It  would  be  filial  impiety  not  to. 

Born  and  reared  in  the  lap  and  ease  of  plenty, 
she,  when  fortune's  frowns  were  most  bitter,  joined 
with  her  husband — my  father — in  the  wish  to  seek 
new  faces  and  a  new  home  in  the  far  ofi^'  "West.  Leav- 
ing behind  all  painful  regrets,  with  the  true  heroism 
of  a  wife,  she  followed  the  fortunes  of  her  husband 
through  the  long  and  wearisome  travel  from  Cum- 
berland county,  North  Carolina,  through  the  sands 
of  South  Carolina,  Georgia  and  Alabama,  to  Cov- 
ington county,  Mississippi,  taking  camp  fare  and 
camp  comfort  common  to  the  movers  of  that  day 
(1822).  With  no  misgivings  as  to  the  future,  always 
cheerful  and  joyous,  sustained  by  a  pure  Christian 
soul  undimmed  by  adversity,  she  felt  rich  alone  in 
the  objects  of  her  afiection — her  husband  and  chil- 
dren— her  six  little  jewels,  the  youngest  an  infant 
and  the  oldest  but  twelve  years.  Sojourning  a  few 
years  in  Mississippi,  she  enters  the  same  vehicle  in 
which  she  had  traveled  from  the  "  OldN'orth  State," 
with  her  six  little  jewels  and  another  added,  and  shared 
the  mover's  comfort  through  the  Choctaw  and  Chick- 


in  West  Tennessee,  291 

asaw  "nations"  to  the  Big  Hatchie  country, as  men- 
tioned in  the  first  chapter  of  these  reminiscences. 

My  mother,  whom  my  father  was  fond  to  call 
Patsey^  was  born  in  North  Carolina,  December  26th, 
in  the  year  1790,  and  was  christened  Martha  Macon. 
Macon  was  the  maiden  name  of  her  mother.  She 
was  the  fifth  child  of  Joseph  Seawell  and  Martha 
Macon,  and  third  daughter,  and  next  to  the  youngest, 
who  was  a  son.  Their  names  were  Harry,  James 
and  Nat,  Nancy  (Ann),  Betsey  (Elizabeth),  and  Patsey 
(Martha),  my  mother.  She  survived  them  all — her 
brother  James  only  a  few  years. 

My  mother  married  my  father  in  the  year  1806, 
when  in  her  seventeenth  year.  Under  her  loving 
care  five  sons  and  three  daughters  grew  up  to  man 
and  womanhood.  She  lived  to  enjoy  the  society 
and  mingle  in  the  domestic  circle  of  her  children 
until  all  had  grown  old  together,  and  to  hless  with 
her  fondest  love  and  affection  fifty-six  grandchildren,  be- 
side great  grandchildren. 

She  survived  my  father  by  thirty  years  (remain- 
ing a  widow),  her  youngest  child  (a  daughter),  nine 
years,  and  eldest  (a  son)  by  two  years,  and  was  by 
her  surviving  children  followed  to  her  last  resting 
place  in  Elmwood,  April,  1867,  having  lived  seventy- 
seven  years  and  seventeen  days.  Zealously  attached 
to  her  church  (the  Presbyterian),  of  which  she  had 
been  a  member  sixty-one  years.     Loving,  kind  and 


292  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

charitable,  exercising  charity  toward  the  uncharita- 
ble, she  was  notable  for  her  deep  piety.  With  strong 
intuitive  love  for  her  children,  she  closed  her  eyes  to 
their  many  shortcomings,  while  her  soul  was  in 
prayer  in  secret.  If  to  be  blind  to  the  faults  and 
frailties  of  one's  children  be  sinful,  it  was  my 
mother's  greatest  sin.  Loving,  jealous,  she  watched 
over  them  with  the  same  care  and  affectionate 
attention,  as  when  they  were  around  her  footstool 
as  little  children. 

It  is  difficult  for  the  writer,  in  this  short  personal 
sketch  of  his  mother,  to  separate  her  moral  from 
her  intellectual  character.  In  her  personal,  she  was 
a  fair  representative  of  the  true  majesty  of  woman, 
spirited  and  gay  in  society,  eloquent  and  chaste  in 
conversation,  tempered  with  feelings  of  tenderness 
and  respect  for  the  opinions  and  fancies  of  others. 
She  was  always  the  welcome  guest  in  the  social  of 
her  friends  and  acquaintances. 

The  genuine  sentiment  of  her  loving,  kind,  and 
generous  nature,  combining  all  the  charming 
accomplishments  that  so  beautifully  adorn  the 
Christian  daughter  and  sister,  wife  and  mother,  dis- 
tinguished her  as  a  neighboe. 

Ardent  in  her  temperament,  devoid  of  fickleness, 
she  was  firm  and  constant  in  her  friendships; 
devoted  to   her  Bible,  her  religious  feelings  grew 


in  West  Tennessee.  293 

stronger  and  her  faith  brighter  in  the  evening  of 
her  long  life. 

The  truths  and  beauties  of  the  Christian  gospel 
were  fully  illustrated  in  her  death,  as  they  had  been 
exemplified  in  her  long  life.  Such,  gentle  reader, 
was  one  of  the  pioneer  wives  and  mothers,  who 
enjoyed  life  in  the  first  settler's  cabin  and  among 
her  neighbors,  who  "  spun  cotton  and  wove  cloth," 
long  before  envy  and  jealousy,  common  to  fashion- 
able life,  entered  the  settlements — who  lived  to  see 
the  wilderness  disappear  for  the  broad  cultivated 
acres,  the  finely  constructed  mansion  take  the  place 
of  the  settler's  cabin,  and  refined  cultivated  taste 
brood  over  the  land,  where  the  howl  of  the  wolf, 
and  sharp,  startling  scream  of  the  panther  first 
became  familiar  sounds.  Such  was  my  mother, 
who,  in  life,  was  highly  esteemed,  and  enjoyed  the 
society  of  many  friends,  and  whose  memory  is 
embalmed  in  the  hearts  of  her  surviving  children. 

An  incident  occurred  in  connection  with  my 
mother's  last  and  mortal  illness,  vouched  for  by 
members  of  the  family,  which,  however,  it  may 
encourage  the  dogmas  of  spiritualism,  is  deserving 
of  mention.  My  mother's  late  residence  in  the  town 
of  Somerville  was  a  retiree!  and  qiuet  cottage  home, 
beautifully  improved,  and  fashioned  after  her  own 
taste  and  fancy,  and  for  the  most  part  by  her  own 


294  Reminiscences  of  Old  Times 

hands.     '^  My   little   cottage  home,''  she   was  fond  to 
call  it. 

Upon  the  mantle  in  her  room  stood  an  old  time 
clock;  it  had  been  a  companion  in  time  with  her  for 
near  a  half  century.  For  several  months  previous 
to  her  death,  the  old  clock  had  refused  to  run. 
Several  repairers  of  clocks  had  tinkered  at  it,  yet  it 
would  not  go — it  refused  to  make  time  any  more — 
it  worried  my  mother.  She  finally  gave  up  the 
undertaking  of  making  it  run,  and  left  it  with  its 
weights  sitting  loose  inside  the  case.  A  few  days 
previous  to  her  death  she  rode  out  to  her  daughter's, 
several  miles  in  the  country;  it  was  on  a  Monday 
she  went  out.  Tuesday  night  at  about  eight  o'clock 
the  members  of  the  family  who  were  sojourning 
with  her  in  her  "  little  cottage  home,"  were  startled 
and  amazed  by  the  "striking"  of  the  old  clock. 
Sitting  in  an  adjoining  room  (there  being  no  one  in 
my  mother's  room),  they,  in  mute  astonishment, 
followed  the  strikes  until  it  struck  twelve.  Some 
minutes  afterward,  and  while  the  members  of  the 
family  were  speaking  of  the  unaccountable  incident 
(for  every  adult  member  of  the  family  were  aware  of 
the  abandoned  condition  of  the  old  clock,)  a  messen- 
ger rapped  at  the  door,  announcing  the  sudden 
illness  of  m}^  mother,  and  for  a  doctor  to  be  sent  in 
haste.  At  twelve  o'clock  the  day  following  the  morn- 
ing, she  breathed  her  last.     Connected  with  this  inci- 


in  West  Tennessee.  295 

dent,  and  which  made  it  the  more  impressive  and  sad, 
she  had  sent  in  on  Tuesday  morning,  writing  a  note, 
for  certain  articles  of  dress  and  material  to  be  sent, 
which  she  desired  should  be  made  up  and  ready  for 
shrouding  her  mortal  remains. 

Our  mother  I  'tis  but  thy  mortal  life  death  can  sever ; 

Thy  sweet  image  lives  embalmed  in  our  heart's  affection  forever. 


a 


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