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This Map is intended to show the relative position of the Marquesas and Tahiti.

The black line described, inland, about the N.W. peninsula of Tahiti, is intended to represent the
course of the ** Broom Road.'*

The lines drawn round about Tahiti and Eimeo represent the course of the encircling reefs,

M 0:

NARRATIVE OF ADVENTURES

IN THE

SOUTH SEAS;

BEIMO A SEaOXL TO

THE " RESIDENCE IN THE UABQUESAS ISLANDS."

BY HERMAN M^LVILL^^^-i--^^^

AOTUOR Oe " TTPEK.

LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.

1847.

London :

Spottis WOODS and Shkw,

New-street- Square.

HERMAN GANSEVOORT

OF GAN8BVCM>BT, SARATOGA COUNTY, HBW TOEK,

THIS WORK

IS CORDIALLY INSCRIBED

BT
HIS NEPHEW,

THE AUTHOR.

A 3

PREFACE.

Nowhere, perhaps, are the proverbial characteristics of sailors
shown under wilder aspects than in the South Seas. For the
most part, the vessels navigating those remote waters are
engaged in the Sperm Whale Fishery ; a business which is not
only peculiarly fitted to attract the most reckless seamen of all
nations, but in various ways is calculated to foster in them
a spirit of the utmost licence. These voyages, also, are un-
usually long and perilous; the only harbours accessible are
among the barbarous or semi-civilized islands of Polynesia,
or along the lawless western coast of South America. Hence,
scenes the most novel, and not directly connected with the
business of whaling, frequently occur among the crews of ships
in the Pacific.

Without pretending to give any account of the whale-fishery
(for the scope of the narrative does not embrace the subject),
it is partly the object of this work to convey some idea of the
kind of life to which allusion is made, by means of a circum-
stantial history of adventures befalling the author.

Another object proposed is, to give & familiar account of the
present condition of the converted Polynesians, as affected
by their promiscuous intercourse with foreigners, and the
teachings of the missionaries, combined.

As a roving sailor, the author spent a\>o\it VJte^i^ tdl^ot^Sda va.
ran'oas parts of the islands of Tahiti and ltttfeeo> wA \wA«c

A 4

PREFACE.

circumstances most favourable for correct observations on the
social condition of the natives.

In every statement connected with missionary operations,
a strict adherence to facts has, of course, been scrupulously
observed; and in some instances, it has even been deemed
advisable to quote previous voyagers, in corroboration of
what is offered as the fruit of the author's own observations.
Nothing but an earnest desire for truth and good has led
him to touch upon this subject at all. And if he refrains
from offering hints as to the best mode of remedying the
evils which are pointed out, it is only because he thinks,
that after being made acquainted with the facts, others are
better qualified to do so.

Should a little jocoseness be shown upon som^ curious traits
of the Tahitians, it proceeds from no intention to ridicule :
things are merely described as^ from their entire novelty, they
first struck an unbiassed observer.

The present narrative necessarily begins where "Typee''
concludes, but has no further connection with the latter work.
All, therefore, necessary for the reader to understand, who has
not read " Typee," is given in a brief introduction.

No journal was kept by the author during his wanderings in
the South Seas ; so that, in preparing the ensuing chapters for
the press, precision with respect to dates, would have been
impossible ; and every occurrence has been put down from
simple recollection. The frequency, however, with which
these incidents have been verbally related, has tended to stamp
them upon the memory.

Although it is believed that one or two imperfect Polynesian
vocabularies have been published, none of the Tahitian dialect
has as yet appeared. At any rate, the author has had access
to none whatever. In the use of the native words, therefore,
he has been mostly governed by the bare recollection of sounds.

Upon several pointa connected with the history and ancient

PREFACE. u

customs of Tahiti, collateral information has been obtained
from the oldest books of South Sea voyages, and also from
the " Polynesian Researches " of Ellis.

The title of the work — Omoo — is borrowed from the dialect
of the Marquesas Islands, where, among other uses, the word
signifies a rover, or rather, a person wandering from one island
to another, like some of the natives known among their country-
men as " Taboo kannakers."

In no respect does the author make pretensions to philosophic
research. In a familiar way, he has merely described what he
has seen ; and if reflections are occasionally indulged in, they
are spontaneous, and such as would very probably suggest
themselves to the most casual observer.

New York, January 28. 1847.

CONTENTS.

Chap.

Page

Imtboductiom - - . -

My reception Aboard

11.

Some Account of the Ship

III.

Further Account of the Julia -

IV.

A Scene in the Forecastle

What happened at Hytyhoo -

VI.

We touch at La Dominica

VII.

What happened at Hannamanoo

VIII.

The Tattooers of La Dominica

IX.

We steer to the Westward. — State of Affairs

A Sea- Parlour described, with some of its Tenants

XI.

Doctor lion^ Ghost a Wag. — . One of his Capers

XII.

Death and Burial of two of the Crew -

XIII.

Our Destination changed

XIV.

Rope- Yam - - . -

XV.

Chips and Bungs - - -

XVI.

We encounter a Gale ...

XVII.

The Coral Islands ...

XVIII.

Tahiti . . - -

XIX.

A Surprise. — More about Bembo

XX.

The Round- Robin. — Visitors from Shore

XXI.

Proceedings of the Consul

XXIL

The CoDsuVa Departure

CONTENTS.

Chap. Page

XX II I. The second Night ofF Papeetee - - - 87

XXIV. Outbreak of the Crew - - - - 92

XXy. Jermin encounters an old Shipmate - - - 95

XXVI. We enter the Harbour. — Jim the Pilot - - 98

XXVII. A Glance at Papeetee. — We are sent aboard the

Frigate - - - - - 103

XXVIII. Reception irom the Frenchman - - - 108

XXIX. The Reine Blanche - - - . - 110

XXX. They take us ashore. — What happened there - 114

XXXI. The Calabooza Beretanee - - . - 118

XXXII. Proceedings of the French at Tahiti - - 124

XXXIII. We receive calls at the Hotel de Calabooza - - 129

XXXIV. Life at the Calabooza - - - - 133

XXXV. Visit from an Old Acquaintance - - - 135

XXXVI. We are carried before the Consul and Captain - 140

XXXVII. ' The French Priests pay their respects - - 143

XXXVIII. Little Jule sails without us - - - - 146

XXXIX.' Jermin serves us a good turn. — Friendships in

Polynesia - - - - - 152

XL. We take unto ourselves Friends - - - 1 56

XLI. We levy Contributions on the Shipping - - 158

XLII. Motoo-Otoo. — A Tahitian Casuist - - 161

XLIII. One is judged by the Company he keeps - - 165

XLIV. Cathedral of Papoar. —The Church of the Cocoa Nuts 167

XLV. A Missionary's Sermon; with some Reflections - 171

XL VI. Something about the Kannakippers - - 1 76

XL VII. How they dress in Tahiti - - - - 180

XLVIII. Tahiti as it is - - - - - 183

XLIX. Same Subject continued - - - - 189

L. Something happens to Long Ghost - - - 193

LI. Wilson gives us the Cut. — Departure for Imeeo - 1 97

LIL The Valley of Martair - - - - 201

LI II. Farming in Polynesia .... 204

LI V. Some Account of the Wild Cattle in Polynesia - 209

LV. A Hunting Ramble with Zeke - - - 212

LVI. Musquitoes - - - - - -216

LVII. The second Hunt in the Mountains - - 219

L VI I L The Hunting. Feast ; and a Visit to \ttft\i\too - *12A.

CONTENTS.

xiii

Cbap.

Page

LIX.

The Murphies ...

227

LX.

What they thought of us in Martair

231

LXI.

Preparing for the Journey

235

LXII.

Tamai - - - .

238

LXIII.

A Dance in the Valley

% -

241

LXIV.

Mysterious - - - -

246

LXV.

244

LXVI.

How we were to get to Taloo

251

LXVII.

The Journey round the Beach

254

LXVIII.

A Dinner- Party in Imeeo -

260

LXIX.

The Cocoa^Palm - - -

264

LXX.

Life at Loohooloo ...

268

LXXI.

We start for Taloo

271

LXXII.

A Dealer in the Contraband

275

LXXIII.

Our Reception in Partoowye

280

LXXIV.

Retiring for the Night — The Doctor

grows devout

285

LXXV.

A Ramble through the Settlement -

288

LXXVI.

An Island Jilt. — We visit the Ship

292

LXXVIL

A Party of Rovers. — Little Loo and the Doctor

296

LXXVIII.

Mrs. BeU - -

300

LXXIX.

Taloo Chapel. — - Holding Court in Polynesia

802

LXXX.

Queen Pomaree

307

LXXXI.

We visit the Court

312

LXXXII.

Which ends the Book

317

ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS.

INTRODUCTION.

In the summer of 1842, the author of this narrative, as a
sailor before the mast, visited tlie Marquesas Islands in an
American South-Seaman. At the island of Nukuheva he left
his vessel, which afterwards sailed without him. Wandering in
the interior, he came upon the valley of Typee, inhabited by a
primitive tribe of savages, from which valley a fellow-sailor
who accompanied him soon afterward effected his escape. The
author, however, was detained in an indulgent captivity for
a])out the space of four months ; at the end of which period, he
escaped in a boat which visited the bay.

This boat belonged to a vessel in need of men, which had
recently touched at a neighbouring harbour of the same island,
where the captain had been informed of the author's detention
in Typee. Desirous of adding to his crew, he sailed round
thither, and "hove to" off the mouth of the bay. As the
Typees were considered hostile, the boat, manned by " Taboo"
natives from the other harbour, was then sent in, with an
interpreter at their head, to procure the author's release. This
was finally accomplished, though not without peril to all con-
cerned. At the time of his escape, the author was suffering
severely from lameness.

The boat having gained the open sea, the ship appeared in
the distance. Here the present narrative opens.

ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap.i

CHAPTER I.

My Reception Aboard.

It was in the middle of a bright tropical afternoon that we
made good our escape from the bay. The vessel we sought
lay with her main top-sail aback about a league from the land,
and was the only object that broke the broad expanse of the
ocean.

On approaching, she turned out to be a small, slatternly
looking craft, her hull and spars a dingy black, rigging all
slack and bleached nearly white, and every thing denoting an
ill state of affairs aboard. The four boats hanging from her
sides proclaimed her a whaler. Leaning carelessly over the
bulwarks were the sailors, wild, haggard-looking fellows in
Scotch caps and faded blue frocks ; some of them with cheeks
of a mottled bronze, to which sickness soon changes the rich
berry-brown of a seaman's complexion in the tropics.

On the quarter-deck was one whom I took for the chief mate.
He wore a broad-brimmed Panama hat, and his* spy-glass was
levelled as we advanced.

When we came alongside, a low cry ran fore and aft the
deck, and every body gazed at us with inquiring eyes. And
well they might. To say nothing of the savage boat's crew,
panting with excitement, all gesture and vociferation, my own
aj^earance was calculated to excite curiosity. A robe of the
native cloth was thrown over my shoulders, my hair and beard
were uncut, and I betrayed other evidences of my recent ad-
venture. Immediately on gaining the deck, they beset me on
all sides with questions, the half of which I could not answer,
so incessantly were they put.

As an instance of the curious coincidences which often befall

the sailor, I must here mention, that two countenances before

me were familiar. One was that of an old maxv-of-wax's-man,

CHAP. I.] MY RECEPTION ABOARD. 8

whose acquaintance I had made in Rio de Janeiro, at which
place touched the ship in which I sailed from home. The
other was a young man, whom, four years previous, I had fre-
quently met in a sailor boarding-house in Liverpool. I re-
membered parting with him at Prince's Dock Gates, in the
midst of a swarm of police-officers, truckmen, stevedores, beg-
gars, and the like. And here we were again : — years had rolled
by, many a league of ocean had been traversed, and we were
thrown together under circumstances which almost made me
doubt my own existence.

But a few moments passed ere I was sent for into the cabin
by the captain.

He was quite a young man, pale and slender, more like a
sickly counting-house clerk than a bluff sea-captain. Bidding
me be seated, he ordered the steward to hand me a glass of
Pisco.* In the state I was, this stimulus almost made me de-
lirious ; so that of all I then went on to relate, concerning my
residence on the island, I can scarcely remember a word. After
this I was asked whether I desired to " ship ;" of course I said
yes; that is, if he would allow me to enter for one cruise,
engaging to discharge me, if I so desired, at the next port. In
this way men are frequently shipped on board whalemen in the
South Seas. My stipulation was acceded to, and the shipV
articles handed me to sign.

The mate was now called below, and charged to make a
" well man" of me ; not, let it be borne in mind, that the captain
felt any great compassion for me, he only desired to have the
benefit of my services as soon as possible.

Helping me on deck, the mate stretched me out on the wind-
lass and conmienced examining my limb ; and then doctoring it
after a fashion with something from the medicine-chest, rolled
it up in a piece of an old sail, making so big a bundle, that with
my feet resting on the windlass, I might have been taken for a
ssdlor with the gout. While this was going on, some one re-
moving my tappa cloak slipped on a blue frock in its place ;

* This spirituoDS liquor derives its name from a considerable town in
Pern, where it is manufactured in large quantities. It is well known alon^
the whole western coast of South America, whence some ol *\X V"a& X^oi
ifxported to Aastralia, It is rery cheap.

4 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. i.

and another, actuated by the same desire to make a civilised
mortal of me, flourished about my head a great pair of sheep-
shears, to the imminent jeopardy of both ears, and the certain
destruction of hair and beard.

The day was now drawing to a close, and, as the land faded
from my sight, I was all alive to the change in my condition.
But how far short of our expectations is oftentimes the fulfil-
ment of the most ardent hopes! Safe aboard of a ship — so
long my earnest prayer — with home and friends once more in
prospect, I nevertheless felt weighed down by a melancholy
that could not be shaken off. It was the thought of never more
seeing those, who, notwithstanding their desire to retain me a
captive, had, upon the whole, treated me so kindly. I was
leaving them for ever.

So unforeseen and sudden had been my escape, so excited had
I been through it all, and so great the contrast between the
luxurious repose of the valley, and the wild noise and motion
of a ship at sea, that at times my recent adventures had all the
strangeness of a dream : and I could scarcely believe that the
same sun now setting over a waste of waters, had that very
morning risen above the mountains and peered in upon me as I
lay on my mat in Typee.

Going below into the forecastle just after dark, I was in-
ducted into a wretched " bunk " or sleeping-box built over an-
other. The rickety bottoms of both were spread with several
pieces of a blanket. A battered tin can was then handed me,
containing about half a pint of " tea " — so called by courtesy,
though whether the juice of such stalks as one finds floating
therein deserves that title, is a matter all ship-owners must
settle with their consciences. A cube of salt beef, on a hard
round biscuit by way of platter, was also handed up; and
without more ado I made a meal, the salt flavour of which,
after the Nebuchadnezzar fare of the valley, was positively
delicious.

While thus engaged, an old sailor on a chest just under me

was pufiing out volumes of tobacco smoke. My supper finished,

he brushed the stem of his sooty pipe against the sleeve of his

frock, and politely waved it toward me. The attention was

emlor-like; as for the nicety of the thing, no mwi^Xio \ia& \i^ed

CHAP. I.] MY RECEPTION ABOARD. 5

in forecastles is at all fastidious ; and so, after a few vigorous
whiffs to induce repose, I turned over and tried my best to
forget myself. But in vain. My crib, instead of extending
fore and aft, as it should have done, was placed athwartships,
that is, at right angles to the keel ; and the vessel going before
the wind, rolled to such a degree, that every time my heels
went up and my head went down, I thought I was on the point
of turning a somerset. Beside this, there were still more
annoying causes of inquietude ; and, every once in a while, a
splash of water came down the open scuttle, and flung the spray
in my face.

At last, after a sleepless night, broken twice by the merciless
call of the watch, a peep of daylight struggled into view from
above, and some one came below. It was my old friend with
the pipe.

" Here, shipmate," said I, " help me out of this place, and let
me go on deck.**

'* Halloo, who's that croaking?" was the rejoinder, as he
peered into the obscurity where I lay. " Ay, Typee, my king
of the cannibals, is it you ? But I say, my lad, how's that spar
of your'n ? the mate says it's in a devil of a way ; and last night
set the steward to sharpening the handsaw : hope he won't have
the carving of ye."

Long before daylight we arrived off the bay of Nukuheva,
and, making short tacks until morning, we then ran in, and sent
a boat ashore with the natives who had brought me to the ship.
Upon its return we made sail again, and stood off from the
land. There was a fine breeze ; and, notwithstanding my bad
night's rest, the cool fresh air of a morning at sea was so
bracing, that, as soon as I breathed it, my spirits rose at once.

Seated upon the windlass the greater portion of the day,

and chatting freely with the men, I learned the history of the

voyage thus far, and every thing respecting the ship and its

present condition.

These matters I will now throw together in the next chapter.

B 3

ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. n.

CHAPTER II.

Some Account of the Ship.

First and foremost, I must give some account of the Julia
herself, or " Little Jule," as the sailors femiliarly styled her.

She was a small barque of a beautiful model, something more
than two hundred tons, Yankee-built, and very old. Fitted for
a privateer out of a New England port during the war of 1812,
she had been captured at sea by a British cruiser, and, after
seeing all sorts of service, was at last employed as a government
packet in the Austi'alian seas. Being condemned, however,
about two years previous, she was purchased at auction by a
house in Sydney, who, after some slight repairs, despatched her
on the present voyage.

Notwithstanding the repairs, she was still in a miserable
plight. The lower masts were said to be unsound; the standing
rigging was much worn; and, in some places, even the bulwarks
were quite rotten. StiU, she was tolerably tight, and but little
more than the ordinary pumping of a morning served to keep
her free.

But all this had nothing to do with her sailing; at that, brave
Little Jule, plump Little Jule, was a witch. Blow high, or
blow low, she was always ready for the breeze ; and when she
dashed the waves from her prow, and pranced, and pawed the
sea, you never thought of her patched sails and blistered hull.
How the fleet creature would fly before the wind ! rolling, now
and then, to be sure, but in very playfulness. Sailing to wind-
ward, no gale could bow her over : with spars erect, she looked
right up into the wind's eye, and so she went.

But after all, Little Jule was not to be confided in. Lively
enough, and playful she was, but on that very account the
more to be distrusted. Who knew, but that like some viva-
cious old mortal all at once sinking into a decline, she might,
some dark night, spring a leak and civTry wa «\V \o \Vva V>q11q\il V

CHAP. iL] SOME ACCOUNT OF THE SHIP. 7

However, she played us no such ugly trick, and therefore I
wrong Little Jule in supposing it.

She had a free, roving commission. According to her papers
she might go whither she pleased — whaling, sealing, or any
thing else. Sperm whaling, however, was what she relied upon ;
though, as yet, only two fish had been brought alongside.

The day they sailed out of Sydney Heads, the ship's com-
pany, all told, numbered some thirty-two souls; now, they
mustered about twenty ; the rest had deserted. Even the three
junior mates who had headed the whale boats were gone ; and
of the four harpooneers, only one was left, a wild New Zea-
lander, or " Mowree,^^ as his countrymen are more commonly
called in the Pacific But this was not all. More than half
the seamen remaining were more or less unwell from a long
sojourn in a dissipated port ; some of them wholly unfit for
duty, one or two dangerously ill, and the rest managing to
stand their watch, though they could do but little.

The captain was a young cockney, who, a few years before,
had emigrated to Australia, and, by some favouritism or other,
had procured the command of the vessel, though in no wise
competent. He was essentially a landsman, and though a man
of education, no more meant for the sea than a hair-dresser.
Hence every body made fun of him. They called him " The
Cabin Boy," *' Paper Jack," and half a dozen other undignified
names. In truths the men made no secret of the derision in
which they held him ; and as for the slender gentleman himself,
he knew it all very well, and bore himself with becoming meek-
ness. Holding as little intercourse with them as possible, he
left every thing to the chief mate, who, as the story went, had
been given his captain in charge. Yet, despite his apparent
onobtrusiveness, the silent captain had more to do with the
men than they thought. In short, although one of your sheepish-
looking fellows, he had a sort of still, timid cunning, which no
one would have suspected, and which, for that very reason, was
all the more active. So the bluff mate, who always thought he
did what he pleased, was occasionally made a tool of; and some
obnoxious measures which he carried out, in spite of all growl-
ings, were little thought to originate with the dw^^r lluk.
fellow in nankeen jacket and white canvas pwnr^^. ^\yX^ \i^ ^

fi 4

8 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, il

jappearance, at least, the mate had every thing his own way;
indeed, in most things this was actually the case ; and it was
quite plain that the captain stood in awe of him.

So far as courage, seamanship, and a natural aptitude for
keeping riotous spirits in subjection were concerned, no man
was better qualified for his vocation than John Jermin. He
was the very beau-ideal of the efficient race of short, thick-set
men. His hair curled in little rings of iron gray all over his
round, bullet head. As for his countenance, it was strongly
marked, deeply pitted with the small-pox. For the rest, there
was a fierce little squint out of one eye ; the nose had a rakish
twist to one side ; while his large mouth, and great white teeth,
looked absolutely sharkish when he laughed. In a word, no
one, after getting a fair look at him, would ever think of im-
proving the shape of his nose, wanting in symmetry if it was.
Notwithstanding his pugnacious looks, however, Jermin had a
heart as big as a bullock's ; that you saw at a glance.

Such was our mate ; but he had one failing : he abhorred all
weak infusions, and cleaved manfully to strong drink. At all
times he was more or less under the influence of it. Taken in
moderate quantities, I believe, in my soul, it did a man like
him good ; brightened his eyes, swept the cobwebs out of his
brain, and regulated his pulse. But the worst of it was, that
sometimes he drank too much, and a more obstreperous fellow
than Jermin in his cups, you seldom came across. He was
always for having a fight ; but the very men he flogged loved
him as a brother, for he had such an irresistibly good-natured
way of knocking them down, that no one could find it in his
heart to bear malice against him. So much for stout little
Jermin.

All English whalemen are bound by law to carry a physician,
who, of course, is rated a gentleman, and lives in the cabin, with
nothing but his professional duties to attend to ; but incidentally
he drinks ** flip," and plays cards with the captain. There was
such a worthy aboard of the Julia ; but, curious to tell, he
lived in the forecastle with the men. And this was the way it
happened.

In the early part of the voyage the doctor and the captain
Jived together as pleasantly as could be. To aay nothing of

CHAP. n.j SOME ACCOUNT OF THE SHIP. 9

many a can they drank over the cabin transom, both of them
had read books, and one of them had travelled ; so their stories
never flagged. But once on a time they got into a dispute
about politics, and the doctor, moreover, getting into a rage,
drove home an argument with his fist, and left the captain on
the floor literally silenced. This v/as carrying it with a high
hand ; so he was shut up in his state-room for ten days, and
left to meditate on bread and water, and the impropriety of
flying into a passion. Smarting under his disgrace, he under-
took, a short time after his liberation, to leave the vessel dan-
destinely at one of the islands, but was brought back ignomi-
niously, and again shut up. Being set at large for the second
time, he vowed he would not live any longer with the captain,
and went forward with his chests among the sailors, where he
was received with open arms, as a good fellow and an injured
man.

I must give some further account of him, for he figures largely
in the narrative. His early history, like that of many other
heroes, was enveloped in the profoundest obscurity ; though he
threw out hints of a patrimonial estate, a nabob uncle, and an
unfortunate aflair which sent him a-roving. All that was known,
however, was this. He had gone out to Sydney as assistant-
surgeon of an emigrant ship. On his arrival there, he went
back into the country, and after a few months' wanderings, re-
turned to Sydney penniless, and entered as doctor aboard of the
Julia.

His personal appearance was remarkable. He was over six
feet high — a tower of bones, with a complexion absolutely
colourless, fair hair, and a light, unscrupulous gray eye, twink-
ling occasionally with the very devil of mischief. Among the
crew, he went by the name of the Long Doctor, or, more fre-
quently still. Doctor Long Ghost. And from whatever high
estate Doctor Long Ghost might have fallen, he had certainly
at some time or other spent money, drunk Burgundy, and
associated with gentlemen.

As for his learning, he quoted Virgil, and talked of Hobbes
of Malmsbury, besides repeating poetry by the canto, especially
Hudibras. He was, moreover, a man who had seen the \^Qtld»
In the easiest wajr imaginable, he could refct \o ^ltl ^jccciovtc V'^i

10 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, i

had in Palermo, his lion hunting before breakfast among tl
Caffres, and the quality of the coffee to be drunk in Musca
and about these places, and a hundred others, he had moi
anecdotes than I can tell of. Then such mellow old songs as 1
saug, in a voice so round and racy, the real juice of soun
How such notes came forth from his lank body was a constai
marvel.

Upon the whole. Long Ghost was as entertaining a con
panion as one could wish ; and to me in the Jidia, an absolu
godsend.

CHAP, m.] FURTHER ACCOUNT OF THE JULIA. 11

CHAPTER III.

Further Acconnt of the Julia.

Owing to the absence of any thing like regular discipline, the
vessel was in a state of the greatest uproar. The captain,
having for some time past been more or less confined to the
cabin from sickness, was seldom seen. The mate, however,
was as hearty as a young lion, and ran about the decks making
himself heard at all hours. Bembo, the New Zealand har-
poneer, held little intercourse with any body but the mate, who
could talk to him freely in his own lingo. Part of his time he
spent out on the bowsprit, fishing for albicores with a bone
hook ; and occasionally he waked all hands up of a dark night
dancing some cannibal fandango all by himself on the fore-
castle. But, upon the whole, he was remarkably quiet, though
something in his eye showed he was far from being harmless.

Doctor Long Ghost, having sent in a written resignation as
the ship's doctor, gave himself out as a passenger for Sydney,
and took the world quite easy. As for the crew, those who
were sick seemed marvellously contented for men in their con-
dition ; and the rest, not displeased with the general licence,
gave themselves little thought of the morrow.

The Julia's provisions were very poor. When opened, the
barrels of pork looked as if preserved in iron rust, and difPiised
an odour like a stale ragout. The beef was worse yet ; a maho-
gany-coloured fibrous substance, so tough and tasteless, that I
almost believed the cook's story of a horse's hoof with the shoe
on having been fished up out of the pickle of one of the casks.
Nor WSLS the biscuit much better ; nearly all of it was broken
into hard little gunflints, honey -combed through and through,
as if the worms usually infesting this article in long tropical
voyages, had, in boring after nutriment, come out at the an«
tipodes without finding any thing.

Of what sailors call "small stores," we \iaji Wt \\\\\ft. ^^T^'a^'*

12 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. in.

however, we had in abundance ; though, I dare say, the Hong
merchants never had the shipping of it. Besides this, every
other day we had what English seamen call " shot soup *' —
great round peas, polishing themselves like pebbles by rolling
about in tepid water.

It was afterwards told me, that all our provisions had been
purchased by the owners at an auction sale of condemned navy
stores in Sydney.

But notwithstanding the wateriness of the first course of
soup, and the saline flavour of the beef and pork, a sailor
might have made a satisfactory meal aboard of the Julia had
there been any side dishes — a potato or two, a yam, or a
plantain. But there was nothing of the kind. Still, there was
something else, which, in the estimation of the men, made
up for all deficiencies; and that was the regular allowance of
Pisco.

It may seem strange, that in such a state of affairs the cap-
tain should be willing to keep the sea with his ship. But the
truth was, that by lying in harbour, he ran the risk of losing
the remainder of his men by desertion : and as it was, he still
feared that, in some outlandish bay or other, he might one day
find his anchor down, and no crew to weigh it.

With judicious oflBlcers the most unruly seamen can at sea be
kept in some sort of subjection ; but once get them within a
cable's length of the land, and it is hard restraining them. It
is for this reason, that many South Sea whalemen do not come
to an anchor for eighteen or twenty months on a stretch. When
fresh provisions are needed, they run for the nearest land —
heave to eight or ten miles off, and send a boat ashore to
trade. The crews manning vessels like these are for the
most part villains of all nations and dyes ; picked up in the
lawless ports of the Spanish Main, and among the savages of the
islands. Like galley-slaves, they are only to be governed by
scourges and chains. Their officers go among them with dirk
and pistol — concealed, but ready at a grasp.

Not a few of our own crew were men of this stamp ; but

riotous at times as they were, the bluff, drunken energies of

Jerrain were just the thing to hold them in some sort of noisy

subjection. Upon an emergency, he lleYr in among them,

CHAP, m.] FURTHER ACCOUNT OF THE- JULIA. 13

showering his kicks and cuffs right and left, and "creating a
seDsation " in every direction. And, as hinted before, they
bore this knock-down authority with great good-humour. A
sober, discreet, dignified officer could have done nothing with
them ; such a set would have thrown him and his dignity over-
board.

Matters being thus, there was nothing for the ship but to
keep the sea. Nor was the captain without hope that the inva-
Kd portion of his crew, as well as himself, would soon recover ;
and then there was no telling what luck in the fishery might
yet be in store for us. At any rate, at the time of my coming
aboard, the report was, that Captain Guy was resolved upon
retrieving the past, and filling the vessel with oil in the sh(»:test
space possible.

With this intention, we were now shaping our course for
Hytyhoo, a village on the island of St. Christina — one of the
Msurqucsas, and so named by Mendanna — for the purpose of
obtaining eight seamen, who, some weeks before, had stepped
ashore there from the Julia. It was supposed that by this
time, they must have recreated themselves sufficiently, and
would be glad to return to their duty.

So to Hytyhoo, with all our canvas spread, and coquetting
with the warm, breezy Trades, we bowled along ; gliding up
and dovm the long, slow swells, the bonettas and albicores
frolicking round us.

14 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. it.

CHAPTER IV.

A Scene in the Forecastle.

I HAD scarcelj been aboard of the ship twenty-four hours when
a circumstance occurred, which, although noways picturesque,
is so significant of the state of affairs, that I cannot forbear
relating it.

In the first place, however, it must be known, that among the
crew was a man so excessively ugly, that he went by the ironical
appellation of "Beauty." He was the ship's carpenter; and
for that reason was sometimes known by his nautical cognomen
of " Chips.'' There was no absolute deformity about the man ;
he was symmetrically ugly. But ill favoured as he was in
person, Beauty was none the less ugly in temper ; but no one
could blame him ; his countenance had soured his heart. Now
Jermin and Beauty were always at sword's points. The truth
was, the latter was the only man in the ship whom the mate had
never decidedly got the better of ; and hence the grudge he
bore him. As for Beauty, he prided himself upon talking iip
to the mate, as we shall soon see.

Toward evening there was something to be done on deck,
and the carpenter who belonged to the watch was missing.
" Where's that skulk. Chips ? " shouted Jermin down the fore-
castle scuttle.

" Taking his ease, d'ye see, down here on a chest, if you want
to know," replieiTthat worthy himself, quietly withdrawing his
pipe from his mouth. This insolence flung the fiery little mate
into a mighty rage ; but Beauty said nothing, puffing away with
all the tranquillity imaginable. Here it must be remembered
that, never mind what may be the provocation, no prudent
officer ever dreams of entering a ship's forecastle on a hostile
visit. If he wants to see any body who happens to be there,
and refuses to come up, why he must wait patiently until the
sailor is willing. The reason is this. TYia i^\s\.<i^i \a n^x^ ^vs.^W %

CHAP. IV.] A SCENE IN THE FORECASTLE. 15

and nothing is easier than to knock one descending on the head^

before he knows where he is, and a very long while before he

ever finds out who did it.
Nobody knew this better than Jermin, and so he contented

himself with looking down the scuttle and storming. At last

Beauty made some cool observation which set him half wild.
" Tumble on deck," he then bellowed — " come, up with you,

or m jump down and make you." The carpenter begged him

to go about it at once.
No sooner said than done ; prudence forgotten, Jermin was

there ; and by a sort of instinct, had his man by the throat

before he could well see him. One of the men now made a
rash at him, but the rest dragged him off, protesting that they
should have fur play.

" Now, come on deck," shouted the mate, struggling like a
good fellow to hold the carpenter fast.

"Take me there," was the dogged answer, and Beauty
wriggled about in the nervous grasp of the other like a couple
of yards of boa-constrictor.

His assailant now undertook to make him up into a compact
bundle, the more easily to transport him. While thus occu-
pied, Beauty got his arms loose, and threw him over backward.
But Jermin quickly recovered himself, when for a time they
had it every way, dragging each other about, bumping their
heads against the projecting beams, and returning each other's
blows the first favourable opportunity that offered. Unfortu-
nately, Jermin at last slipped and fell ; his foe seating himself
on his chest, and keeping him down. Now this was one of those
situations in which the voice of counsel, or reproof, comes with
peculiar unction. Nor did Beauty let the opportunity slip.
But the mate said nothing in reply, only foaming at the mouth
and struggling to rise.

.Just then a thin tremor of a voice was heard from above. It
was the captain ; who, happening to ascend to the quarter-deck
at the commencement of the scuffle, would gladly have returned
to the cabin, but was prevented by the fear of ridicule. As the
din increased, and it became evident that his officer was in
serious trouble, he thought it would never do to %Ux!AV^<ax^^

16 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, iv

over the bulwarks, so he made his appearance on the forecastle,
resolved, as his best policy, to treat the matter lightly.

" Why, why," he began, speaking pettishly, and very fast,
" what's all this about ? — Mr. Jermin, Mr. Jermin — carpenter,
carpenter ; what are you doing down there ? Come on deck ;
come on deck."

Whereupon Doctor Long Ghost cries out in a squeak, " Ah !
Miss Guy, is that you? Now, my dear, go right home, or
you'll get hurt."

" Pooh, pooh I you, sir, whoever you are, I was not speak-
ing to you ; none of your nonsense. Mr. Jermin, I was talk-
ing to you ; have the kindness to come on deck, sir ; I want to
see you."

" And how, in the devil's name, am I to get there ? " cried
the mate, furiously. "Jump down here. Captain Guy, and
show yourself a man. Let me up, you Chips ! unhand me, I
say ! Oh ! I'll pay you for this, some day ! Come on, Captain
Guy!"

At this appeal, the poor man was seized with a perfect
spasm of fidgets. " Pooh, pooh, carpenter ; have done with
your nonsense ! Let him up, sir ; let him up I Do you hear ?
Let Mr. Jermin come on deck ! "

" Go along with you. Paper Jack," replied Beauty ; " this
quarrel's between the mate and me; so go aft, where you
belong!"

As the captain once more dipped his head down the scuttle
to make answer, from an imseen hand he received, full in the
face, the contents of a tin can of soaked biscuit and tea-leaves.
The doctor was not far off just then. Without waiting for any
thing more, the discomfited gentleman, with both hands to his
streaming face, retreated to the quarter deck.

A few moments more, and Jermin, forced to a compromise,
followed after, in his torn frock and scarred face, looking for
all the world as if he had just disentangled himself from some
intricate piece of machinery. For about half an hour both
remained in the cabin, where the mate's rough tones were
heard high above the low, smooth voice of the captain.

Of all his conflicts with the men, this was the first in wliich
tJermin bud been worsted ; and he was pToi^OTl\oiia.bly enraged.

CHAP. IV.] A SCENE IN THE FORECASTLE. 17

Upon going below — as the steward afterward told us — he
bluntly informed Guy that, for the future, he might look out
for his ship himself; for his part, he was done with her, if that
was the way he allowed his officers to be treated. After many
high words, the captain finally assured him, that the first fitting
opportunity the carpenter should be cordially flogged ; though,
as matters stood, the experiment would be a hazardous one.
Upon this Jermin reluctantly consented to drop the matter for
the present ; and he soon drowned all thoughts of it in a can
of flip, which Guy had previously instructed the steward to
prepare, as a sop to allay his wrath.
Nothing more ever came of this.

18 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. t.

CHAPTER V.

What happened at Hytyhoo.

Less than forty-eight hours after leaving Nukuheva, the blue,
looming island of St. Christina greeted us from afar. Drawing
near the shore, the grim, black spars and waspish hull of a
small man-of-war craft crept into view ; the masts and yards
lined distinctly against the sky. She was riding to her anchor
in the bay, and proved to be a French corvette.

This pleased our captain exceedingly, and, coming on deck,
he examined her from the mizen rigging with his glass. His
original intention was not to let go an anchor ; but, counting
upon the assistance of the corvette in case of any difficulty, he
now changed his mind, and anchored alongside of her. As
soon as a boat could be lowered, he then went off to pay his
respects to the commander, and, moreover, as we supposed, to
concert measures for the apprehension of the runaways.

Returning in the course of twenty minutes, he brought along
with him two officers in imdress and whiskers, and three or four
drunken obstreperous old chiefs ; one with his legs thrust into
the armholes of a scarlet vest, another with a pair of spurs on
his heels, and a third in a cocked hat and feather. In addition
to these articles, they merely wore the ordinary costume of their
race — a slip of native cloth about the loins. Indecorous as
their behaviour was, these worthies turned out to be a deputation
from the reverend the clergy of the island; and the object
of their visit was to put our ship under a rigorous "Taboo," to
prevent the disorderly scenes and facilities for desertion which
would ensue were the natives — men and women — allowed to
come off to us freely.

There was little ceremony about the matter. The chiefs

went aside for a moment, laid their shaven old crowns together,

and went over a little mummery. Whereupon, their leader

tore a long strip from his girdle of white tappa, and handed it

CHAP, v.] -WHAT HAPPENED AT HYTYHOO. 19

to one of the French officers, who, after explaining what was
to be done, gave it to Jermin. The mate at once went out to
the end of the jBjing-jib-boom, and fastened there the mystic
symbol of the ban. This put to flight a party of girls who had
been observed swimming towards us. Tossing their arms about,
and splashing the water like porpoises, with loud cries of
" taboo ! taboo !" they turned about and made for the shore.

The night of our arrival, the mate and the Mowree were to
stand "watch and watch," relieving each other every four
hours ; the crew, as is sometimes customary when lying at an
anchor, being allowed to remain all night below. A distrust of
the men, however, was, in the present instance, the principal
reason for this proceeding. Indeed, it was all but certain, that
aome kind of attempt would be made at desertion ; and, there-
fore, when Jermin's first watch came on at eight bells (midnight)
— by which time all was quiet — he mounted to the deck with a
flask of spirits in one hand, and the other in readiness to as-
sail the first countenance that showed itself above the forecastle
scuttle.

Thus prepared, he doubtless meant to stay awake ; but for
all that, before Jong he fell asleep ; and slept with such hearty
good-will too, that the men who left us that night might have
been waked up by his snoring. Certain it was, the mate
snored most strangely; and no wonder, with that crooked
bugle of his. When he came to himself it was just dawn, but
quite light enough to show two boats gone from the side. In
an instant he knew what had happened.

Dragging the Mowree out of an old §edl where he was nap*
ping, he ordered him to clear away /mother boat, and then
darted into the cabin to tell the captain the news. Springing
on deck again, he dived down into the forecastle for a couple
of oarsmen, but hardly got there before there was a cry, and a
loud splash heard over the side. It was the Mowree and the
boat — into which he had just leaped to get ready for lowering
— rolling over and over in the water.

The boat having at nightfall been hoisted up to its place
over the starboard quarter, some one had so cut the tackles
which held it therei, that a moderate strain n?o\M «i1 oti^i.^ ^^a\.
ihew. Bembo's weight had answered the puti^^ ^wvsi%

c 2

30 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. ▼.

Ifiat the deserters must have ascertained his specific gravity to
a fibre of hemp. There was another boat remaining ; but it
Was as well to examine it before attempting to lower. And it
was well they did ; for there was a hole in the bottom large
enough to drop a barrel through : she had been scuttled most
ruthlessly.

Jermin was frantic Dashing his hat upon deck, he was
ftbout to plunge overboard and swim to the corvette for a
outter, when Captain Guy made his appearance and begged
him to stay where he was. By this time the officer of the
dedt aboard the Frenchman had noticed our movements, and
hailed to know what had happened. Guy informed him through
his -trumpet, and men to go in pursuit were instantly promised.
Hiere was a whistling of a boatswain's pipe, an order or two,
and then a large cutter pulled out from the man-of-war's stern,
and in half a dozen strokes was alongside. The mate leaped
into her, and they pulled rapidly ashore.

Another cutter, carrying an armed crew, soon followed.

In an hour's time the first returned, towing the two whale
boats, which had been found turned up like tortoises on the
beach.

Noon came, and nothing more was heard from the deserters.
Meanwhile Doctor Long Ghopt and myself lounged about, cul-
tivating an acquaintance, and gazing upon the shore scenery.
The bay was as calm as death; the sun high and hot ; and
occasionally a still gliding canoe stole out from behind the
headlands, and shot across the water.

And all the nioming long our sick men limped about the
deck, casting wistful glances inland, where the palm-trees
waved and beckoned them into their reviving shades. Poor
invalid rascals! How conducive to the restoration of their
shattered health would have been those delicious groves ! But
hard-hearted Jermin assured them, with an oath, that foot of
theirs should never touch the beach.

Toward sunset a crowd was seen coming down to the water.

In advance of all were the fugitives — bareheaded-^ their frocks

and trowsers hanging in tatters, every face covered with blood

and dust, and their arms pinioned behind them with green

tbongg. Following them up, was a shoutMig T«L\>\Aft ^i \a\a.ud«ra^

CHAP.Y.] WHAT HAPPENED AT HYTYHOO. 81

pricking them with the points of their long spears, the party
{rem the corvette menacing them in flank with their naked
cutlasses.

The bonus of a musket to the king of the Bay, and the
promise of a tumbler fuU of powder for every man caught, had
set the whole population on their track ; and so successful was
the himt, that not only were that morning's deserters brought
back, but five of those left behind on a former visit. The
natives, however, were the mere hounds of the chase, raising
the game in their coverts, but leaving the securing of it to the
Frenchmen. Here, as elsewhere, the islanders have no idea
of taidng part in such a scuffle as ensues upon the capture of a
party of desperate seamen.

llie runaways were once brought aboard, and, thongh they
looked rather sulky, soon came round, and treated the whole
affair as a frolicsome adventure.

ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAa [chap, n

CHAPTER VI.

We toach at La Dominica.

F£AEFT7L of Spending another night in Hytyhoo, Captain Guy
caused the ship to he got under way shortly after dark.

The next morning, when all supposed that we were fairly
embarked for a long cruise, our course was suddenly altered fi^
La Dominica, or Hivarhoo, an island just north of the one we
had quitted. The object of this, as we learned, was to procure,
if possible, several fkiglish sailors, who, according to the com-
mander of the corvette, had recently gone ashore there from an
American whaler, and were desirous of shipping aboard of one
of their oifn country vessels.

We made the land in the afternoon, coming abreast of a
shady glen opening from a deep bay, and winding by green
defiles far out of sight. "Hands by the weather-main-brace !**
roared the mate, jumping up on the bulwarks ; and in a moment
the prancing Julia, suddenly arrested in her course, bridled her
head like a steed reined in, while the foam faked under her
bows.

This was the place where we expected to obtain the men ; so
a boat was at once got in readiness to go ashore. Now it was
necessary to provide a picked crew — men the least likely to
abscond. After considerable deliberation on the part of the
captain and mate, four of the seamen were pitched upon as the
most trustworthy ; or rather they were selected from a choice
assortment of suspicious characters as being of an inferior order
of rascality.

Armed with cutlasses all round — the natives were said to be
an ugly set — they were followed over the side by the invalid
captain, who, on this occasion, it seems, was determined to
signalize himself. Accordingly, in addition to his cutlass, he
wore an old boarding belt, in which was thrust a brace of pistols.
2^e^ at once aboved off.

CHAP. ▼!.] WE TOUCH AT LA DOMINICA. 23

My friend Long Ghost had, among other things which looked
somewhat strange in a ship's forecastle, a capital spy-glass, and
on the present occasion we had it in use.

When the boat neared the head of the inlet, though invisible
to the naked eye, it was plainly reyealed by the glass ; looking
no bigger than an egg-shell, and the men diminished to pig-
mies.

At last, borne on what seemed a long flake of foam, the tiny
craft shot up the beach amid a shower of sparkles. Not a soul
was there. Leaving one of their number by the water, the
rest of the pigmies stepped ashore, looking about them very
circumspectly, pausing now and then hand to ear, and peering
under a dense grove, which swept down within a few paces of
the sea. No one came, and to all appearances every thing was
as still as the grave. Presently, he with the pistols, followed
by the rest flourishing their bodkins, entered the wood and
were soon lost to view. They did not stay long; probably
anticipating some inhospitable ambush were they to stray any
distance up the glen.

In a few moments they embarked again, and were soon riding
pertly over the waves of the bay. All of a sudden the captain
started to his feet — the boat spun roimd, and again made for
the shore. Some twenty or thirty natives armed with spears,
which through the glass looked like reeds, had just come out
of the grove, and were apparently shouting to the strangers not
to be in such a hurry, but return and be sociable. But they
were somewhat distrusted, for the boat paused about its length
from the beach, when the captain standing up in its head de-
livered an address in pantomime, the object of which seemed
to be that the islanders should draw near. One of them
stepped forward and made answer, seemingly again urging the
strangers not to be diffident, but beach their boat. The captain
declined, tossing his arms about in another pantomime. In the
end he said something which made them shake their spears ;
whereupon he fired a pistol among them, which set the whole
party running ; while one poor little fellow, dropping his spear
and clapping his hand behind him, limped away in a manner
which almost made me itch to get a shot at his assailant.

Wanton acts of crudity like this are not \m\\sv\s!l oii\2cL^\»^aN»
c 4

24 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap.tI

of sea captains landing at islands comparatively unknown.
Even at the Pomotu group, but a day's sail from Tahiti, the
islanders coming down to the shore have several times been
fired at by trading schooners passing through their narrow
channels ; and this too as a mere amusement on the part of the
ruffians.

Indeed, it is almost incredible, the light in which many sailors
regard these naked heathens. They hardly consider them
human. But it is a curious fact, that the more ignorant and
degraded men are, the more contemptuously they look up<Mi
those whom they deem their inferiors.

All powers of persuasion being thus lost upon these foolish
savages, and no hope left of holding further intercourse, the
boat returned to the ship.

CBAF. Til.] WHAT HAPPENED AT HANNAMANOO.

CHAPTER Vn.

What happened at Haxmamanoo.

On the other side of the island was the large and populous hssy
of Hannamanoo, where the men sought might yet be found.
Bnt as the sun was setting by the time the boat came alon^-
ade, we got our off-shore tacks aboard and stood away for an
offing. About daybreak we wore, and ran in, and by the time
the sun was well up, entered the long, narrow channel dividing
the islands of La Dominica and St. Christina.

On one hand was a range of steep green bluffs hundreds of
feet high, the white huts of the natives here and there nestling
like birds' nests in deep clefts gushing with verdure. Across
the water, the land rolled away in bright hillsides, so warm and
undulating, that they seemed almost to palpitate in the sun'.
On we swept, past bluff and grov'e, wooded glen and valley,
and dark ravines lighted up far inland with wild falls of water.
A fresh land-breeze filled our sails, the embayed waters were
gentle as a lake, and every blue wave broke with a tinkle
against our coppered prow.

On gaining the end of the channel we rounded a point, and
came full upon the bay of Hannamanoo. This is the only
harbour of any note about the island, though as far as a safe
anchorage is concerned it hardly deserves the title.

Before we held any communication with the shore, an in-
cident occurred which may convey some further idea of the
character of our crew.

Having approached as near the land as we could prudently,
our headway was stopped, and we awaited the arrival of a
canoe which was coming out of the bay. All at once we got
into a strong current, which swept us rapidly toward a rocky
promontory forming one side of the harbour. The wind had
died away; so two boats were at once lowered fet Haa^xxr^ftsfc
of pulb'ng' the ship's head round. Before t\na cov^'^^o^ ^^'Oft>

:26 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [cHAP.m

the eddies were whirling upon all sides, and the rock so near,
that it seemed as if one might leap upon it fron the mast-head.
Notwithstanding the speechless fright of the captain, and the
hoarse shouts of the unappalled Jermin, the men handled the
ropes as deliheratelj as possible, some of them chuckling at the
prospect of going ashore, and others so eager for the vessel
to strike, that they could hardly contain themselves. Unex-
pectedly a countercurrent befriended us, and assisted by the
boats we were soon out of danger.

What a disappointment for our crew ! All their little plans
for swimming ashore from the wreck, and having a fine time
of it for the rest of their days, thus cruelly nipt in the bud.

Soon after, the canoe came alongside. In it were eight or
ten natives, comely, vivacious-looking youths, all gesture and
exclamation; the red feathers in their headbands perpetually
nodding. With them also came a stranger, a renegado from
Christendom and humanity — a white man in the South Sea
girdle, and tattooed in the face. A broad blue band stretched
across his face from ear to ear, and on his forehead was the
taper figure of a blue shark, nothing but fins from head to tail.

Some of us gazed upon this man with a feeling akin to horror,
no ways abated when informed that he had voluntarily sub-
mitted to this embellishment of his countenance. What an
impress ! Far worse than Cain's — his was, perhaps, a wrinkle,
or a freckle, which some of our modem cosmetics might have
effaced ; but the blue shark was a mark indelible, which all the
waters of Abana and Pharpar, rivers of Damascus, could never
wash out. He was an Englishman, Lem Hardy he called him-
self, who had deserted from a trading brig touching at the
island for wood and water some ten years previous. He had
gone ashore as a sovereign power, armed with a musket and
a bag of ammunition, and ready, if need were, to prosecute war
on his own account. The country was divided by the hostile
kings of several large valleys. With one of them, from whom
he first received overtures, he formed an alliance, and became
what he now was, the military leader of the tribe, and war-god
of the entire island.

His campaigns beat Napoleon'45. In one night-attack, his
Invincible muaket^ backed by the Ught lofDJitry q£ shears and

CHAP, vn.] WHAT HAPPENED AT HANNAMANOO. 27

javelins, yanquished two clans, and the next morning brought
all the others at the feet of his royal ally.

Nor was the rise of his domestic fortunes at all behind the
Corsican's : three days after landing, the exquisitely tattooed
band of a princess was his ; receiving along with the damsel, as
her portion, one thousand fathoms of fine tappa, fifty double-
braided mats of split grass, four hundred hogs, ten houses in
different parts of her native valley, and the sacred protection of
an express edict of the Taboo, declaring his person invioliJile
for ever.

N0T79 ^^ iii^^^^ ^AS settled for life, perfectly satisfied with his
drcnmstances, and Ifeeliiig no desire to return to his friends.
"f^ioids,*' indeed, he had none. He told me his history.
Thrown upon the world a foundling, his paternal origin was as
much a mystery to him as the genealogy of Odin ; and, scorned
by every body, he fled the parish workhouse when a boy, and
launched upon the sea. He had followed it for several years, a
dog before the mast, and now he had thrown it up for ever.

And for the most part, it is just this sort of men — so many
of whom are found among sailors — uncared for by a single
soul, without ties, reckless, and impatient of the restraints of
civilization, who are occasionally found quite at home upon the
savage islands of the Pacific. And, glancing at their hard lot
in their own country, what marvel at their choice ?

According to the renegade, there was no other white man
on the island ; and as the captain could have no reason to sup-
pose that Hardy intended to deceive us, he concluded that the
Frenchmen were in some way or other mistaken in what they
had told us. However, when our errand was made known to
the rest of our visitors, one of them, a fine, stalwart fellow, his
face all eyes and expression, volunteered for a cruise. All the
wages he asked, was a red shirt, a pair of trowsers, and a hat,
which were to be put on there and then ; besides a plug of
tobacco and a pipe. The bargain was struck directly ; but
Wymontoo afterwards came in with a codicil, to the effect that
a friend of his, who had come along with him, should be given
ten whole sea-biscuits, without crack or flaw, twenty perfectly
new and symmetrically straight nails, and one jackknife. This
being agreed to, the articles were at once Wh^Sl^^ q-^^t^ V5w^

28 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [cHAP.vfi.

native receiving them with great avidity, and in the absence of
clothing, using his mouth as a pocket to put the nails in. Two
of them, however, were first made to take the place of a pair
of ear-ornaments, curiously fashioned out of bits of whitened
wood.

It now began breezing strongly from seaward, and no time
was to be lost in getting away from the land; so after an affect-
ing rubbing of noses between our new shipmate and his coun-
trymen, we sailed away with him.

To our surprise, the farewell-shouts from the canoe, as w<
dashed along under bellied royals, were heard unmoved bj
our islander ; but it was not long thus. That very evening
when the dark blue of his native hills sunk in the horizon, th(
poor savage leaned over the bulwarks, dropped his head upoi
his chest, and gave way to irrepressible emotions. The shij
was plunging hard, and Wymontoo, sad to tell, in addition t(
his other pangs, was terribly sea-sick.

▼m.] THE TATTOOERS OF LA DOMINICA. 29

CHAPTER Vm.

The Tattooen of La Dominica.

i while leaving Little Jule to sail away by herself, I will
[>i]t down some curious information obtained from Hardy,
e ren^ado had lived so long on the island, that its ens-
were quite familiar ; and I much lamented that, from the
less of our stay, he could not tell us more than he did.
>m the little intelligence gathered, however, I learned to
rprise that, in some things, the people of Hivarhoo, though
3 same group of islands, differed considerably from my
al friends in the valley of Typee.

his tattooing attracted so much remark, Hardy had a good
JO say concerning the manner in which that art was prac-
apon the island.

roughout the entire cluster the tattooers of Hivarhoo en-
no small reputation. They had carried their art to the
3t x>6rfection, and the profession was esteemed most
irable. No wonder, then, that like genteel tailors, they
their services very high ; so much so, that none but those
ring to the higher classes could afford to employ them.
3e was this, that the el^ance of one's tattooing was in
3ases a sure indication of birth and riches,
ifessors in large practice lived in spacious houses, divided
reens of tappa into numerous little apartments, where
!ts were waited upon in private. The arrangement
f grew out of a singidar ordinance of the Taboo, which
led the strictest privacy upon all men, high and low, while

the hands of the tattooer. For the time, the slightest
ourse with others is prohibited, and the small portion of
lUowed, is pushed under the curtain by an unseen hand,
•estriction with regard to food, is intended to reduce the

80 as to diminish the inlSammation eoTi«e(\vxsiit ^x^ksol
vring the ekin. Aa it is, this comes on Nerj «ivsi^ «eA.

30 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUT^ SEAS. [cHAP.vm.

takes some time to heal; so that the period of seclusion
generally embraces manj days, sometimes several weeks.

All traces of soreness vanished, the subject goes abroad ; but
only again to return ; for, on account of the pain, only a small
sui^ace can be operated upon at once ; and as the whole body
is to be more or less embellished by a process so slow, the stu-
dios alluded to are constantly filled. Indeed, with a vanity
elsewhere unheard of, many spend no smaU portion of their
days thus sitting to an artist.

To begin the work, the period of adolescence is esteemed the
most suitable. After casting about for some eminent tattooer,
the friends of the youth take him to his house, to have the out-
lines of the general plan laid out. It behoves the professor
to have a nice eye, for a suit to be worn for life should be
well cut.

Some tattooers, yearning after perfection, employ, at large
wages, one or two men of the commonest order — vile fellows,
utterly regardless of appearances, upon whom they first try
their patterns and practice generally. Their backs remorselessly
scrawled over, and no more canvas remaining, they are dismissed,
and ever after go about, the scorn of their countrymen.

Hapless wights! thus martyred in the cause of the Fine Arts.

Besides the regular practitioners, ther are a parcel of shabby,
itinerant tattooers, who, by virtue of their calling, stroll unmo-
lested from one hostile bay to another, doing their work dog-
cheap for the multitude. They always repair to the various
religious festivals, which gather great crowds. When these are
concluded, and the places where they are held vacated even
by the tattooers, scores of little tents of coarse tappa are left
standing, each with a solitary inmate, who, forbidden to talk to
his unseen neighbours, is obliged to stay there till completely
healed. The itinerants are a reproach to their profession, mere
cobblers, dealing in nothing but jagged lines and clumsy
patches, and utterly incapable of soaring to those heights of
fancy attained by gentlemen of the faculty.

All professors of the arts love to fraternize ; and so, in Han-

namanoo, the tattooers came together in the chapters of their

worshipful order. In this society, duly organized, and confer-

TiDg degrees. Hardy , from his influence ^ a ^\i\\A) ^o^ a sort of

□n.] THE TATTOOERS OF LA DOMINICA. 31;

ry Gnnd Master. The blue shark, and a sort of Urim
mmmim engraven upon his chest, were the seal of his
m. All over Hivarhoo are established these orders of
«. The way in which the renegado's came to be founded
A year or two after his landing there happened to be
Q of scarcity, owing to the partial failure of the bread-
larvest for several consecutive seasons. This brought
luch a falling off in the number of subjects for tattooing,
e profession became quite needy. The royal ally of
however, hit upon a benevolent expedient to pro>ade
r wants, at the same time conferring a boon upon many
subjects.

lound of conch-shell it was proclaimed before the palace,
beach, and at the head of the valley, that Noomai, King
inamanoo, and friend of Hardee-Hardee, the white,
)en heart and table for all tattooers whatsoever ; but, to
themselves to his hospitality, they were commanded to
i without fee upon the meanest native soliciting their
s.

bers at once flocked to the royal abode, both artists and

It was a famous time ; and the buildings of the palace

taboo" to all but the tattooers and chiefs, the sitters bivou-

m the common, and formed an extensive encampment.

" Lora Tattoo," or the Time of Tattooing, wiU be long

)ered. An enthusiastic sitter celebrated the event in

Several lines were repeated to us by Hardy, some of

in a sort of colloquial chant, he translated nearly thus :

** Where is that sound?

In Hannamanoo.

And wherefore that soond?

The sound of a hundred hammers

Tapping, tapping, tappmg
The shark teeth.*

«* Where is that light?
Round about the king's house.
And the small laughter ?
The small, merry laughter it is
Of the sons and daughters of the tattooed."

colouring matter is inserted by means of a shark's tooth attached
d of a short stick, which is struck upon tlie ol\vet eToii VvCfii^wasi^
wood

ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. ix.

CHAPTER IX.

We steer to the westward — State of afibirs.

The night we left Hannamanoo was bright and starry, and
so warm, that when the watches were relieved, most of the men,
instead of going below, flung themselves around the foremast

Towards morning, finding the heat of the forecastle unpleasant,
I ascended to the deck , where every thing was noiseless. The
Trades were blowing with a mild, steady strain upon the can*
vas, and the ship heading right out into the immense blank of
the Western Pacific. The watch were asleep. With one foot
resting on the rudder, even the man at the helm nodded, and the
mate himself, with arms folded, was leaning against the capstan.

On such a night, and all alone, revery was inevitable. I
leaned over the side, and could not help thinking of the strange
objects we might be sailing over.

But my meditations were soon interrupted by a grey, spec-
tral shadow cast over the heaving billows. It was the dawn,
soon followed by the first rays of the morning. They flashed
into view at one end of the arched night, like — ^to compare great
things with small — the gleamings of Guy Fawkes's lantern in
the vaults of the Parliament House. Before long, what seemed
a live ember rested for a moment on the rim of the ocean, and
at last the blood-red sun stood full and round in the level East,
and the long sea-day began.

Breakfast over, the first thing attended to was the formal
baptism of Wymontoo, who, after thinking over his affairs dur-
ing the night, looked dismal enough.

There were various opinions as to a suitable appellation.
Some maintained that we ought to call him " Sunday," that
being the day we caught him ; others, " Eighteen Forty-two,"
the then year of our Lord ; while Doctor Long Ghost remarked
that be ought, by all means, to retain \i\a oTi^vaal \va.txift, — Wy-

CHAP.ix.] WE ST££B TO THE WESTWARD. at

montoo-Hee, meaning (as be maintained), in the figurative lan-
guage of the island^ something analogous to one who had got
himself into a scrape. The mate put an end to the discussion
hj sousing the poor fellow with a bucket of salt water, and be-
stowing upon him the nautical appellation of '* Luff."

Though a certain mirthfulness succeeded his first pangs at
leaving home, Wjmontoo — we will call him thus — gradually
relapsed into his former mood, and became very melancholy.
Often I noticed him crouching apart in the forecastle, his strangQ
eyes gleaming restlessly, and watching the slightest movement
(^ the men. Many a time he must have been thinking of his
bamboo httt» when they were talking of Sydney and its dance-

We were now fairiy at sea, though to what particular cruis-
ing-ground we were going, no one knew ; and» to all appear-
sncefl^ few cared* The men, after a fashion l&f their own, began
IQ settle down into the routine of sea-life, as if every thing
was going on prosperously. Blown along over a smooth sea,
there was nothing to do but steer the ship, and relieve the
" lookouts " at the mast-heads. As for the sick, they had two
or three more added to their number — the air of the island
having disagreed with the constitutions of several of the runa*
ways. To crown all, the captain again relapsed, and became
quite ilL

The men fit for duty were divided into two small watches^
beaded respectively by the mate and the Mowree ; the latter,
by virtue of his bdng a harpooneer, succeeding to the place of
the second mate, who had absconded.

In this state of things, whaling was out of the question ; but
in the face of every thing, Jermin maintained that the invalids
would soon be welL However that might be, with the same
pale blue sky overhead, we kept running steadily to the west-
ward. For ever advancing, we seemed always in the same place,
and every day was the former lived over again. We Mw no
^ps, expected to see none. No sign of life was percepjdble
but the porpoises and other filsh sporting under the bows like
pops ashore. But, at intervals, the grey albatross, peculiar to
these seas, came flapping his immense wings over ua^ axvd thfiik
itaaamed Mwajr sUmtlj a$ if from a plague-aUq^ \ <yt %\^\a^ ^^

34 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, [chap. n.

the tropic bird, known among seamen as the ^^ boatswain,**
wheeled round and round us, whistling shrilly as thej flew.
. The uncertainty hanging over our destination at this time,
and the fact that we were abroad upon waters comparatively
little traversed, lent an interest to this portion of the cruise
which I shall never forget.

From obvious prudential considerations the Pacific has been
principally sailed over in known tracts, and this is the reason
why new islands are still occasionally discovered, by exploring
ships and adventurous whalers, notwithstanding the great num-
ber of vessels of all kinds of late navigating this vast ocean. In-
deed, considerable portions still remain wholly unexplored ; and
there is no doubt as to the actual existence of certain shoals, and
reefs, and small clusters of islands vaguely laid down in the
charts. The mere circumstance, therefore, of a ship like ours
penetrating into these regions, was sufficient to cause any re-
flecting mind to feel at least a little uneasy. For my own part,
the many stories I had heard of ships striking at midnight upon
imknown rocks, with all sail set, and a slumbering crew, often
recurred to me, especially, as from the absence of discipline,
and our being so short-handed, the watches at night were
careless in the extreme.

But no thoughts like these were entertained by my reckless
shipmates ; and along we went, the sun every evening setting
right ahead of our jib-boom.

For what reason the mate was so reserved with regard to
our precise destination was never made known. The stories
he told us, I, for one, did not believe ; deeming them all a mere
device to lull the crew.

He said we were bound to a fine cruising ground, scarcely
known to other whalemen, which he had himself discovered
when commanding a small brig upon a former voyage. Here,
the sea was alive with large whales, so tame, that all you had
to do was to go up and kill them : they were too frightened to
resist. A little to leeward of this was a small cluster of islands,
where we were going to refit, abounding with delicious fruits,
and peopled by a race almost wholly unsophisticated by inter-
course with strangers.
la order, perhapSy to guard against t\ift ^osiaVcKJXV:^ ^i «a^

CHAP. IX.] WE STEER TO THE WESTWARD. 35

one finding out the precise latitude and longitude of the spot
we were going to, Jermin never revealed to us the ship's place
at noon, though such is the custom aboard of most vessels.

Meanwhile, he was very assiduous in his attention to the
invalids. Doctor Long Ghost having given up the keys of the
medicine-chest, they were handed over to him ; and, as phy-
sician, he discharged his duties to the satisfaction of all. Pills
and powders, in most cases, were thrown to the fish, and in
place thereof, the contents of a mysterious little quarter cask
were produced, diluted with water from the " butt." His
draughts were mixed on the capstan, in cocoa-nut shells marked
with the patients' names. Like shore doctors, he did not
eschew his own medicines, for his professional calls in the fore-
castle were sometimes made when he was comfortably tipsy :
nor did he omit keeping his invalids in good-humour, spinning
his yams to them, by the hour, whenever he went to see them.

Owing to my lameness, from which I soon began to recover,
I did no active duty, except standing an occasional " trick " at
the helm. It was in the forecastle chiefly that I spent my
time, in company with the Long Doctor, who was at great
pains to make himself agreeable. His books, though sadly
torn and battered, were an invaluable resource. I read them
through again and again, including a learned treatise on the
yellow fever. Li addition to these, he had an old file of
Sydney papers, and I soon became intimately acquainted with
the localities of all the advertising tradesmen there. Li par-
ticular, the rhetorical flourishes of Stubbs, the real-estate
auctioneer, diverted me exceedingly, and I set him down as
no other than a pupil of Robins the Londoner.

Aside from the pleasure of his society, my intimacy with
Long Ghost was of great service to me in other respects. His
disgrace in the cabin only confirmed the good-will of the
democracy in the forecastle ; and they not only treated him in
the most friendly manner, but looked up to him with the
utmost deference, besides laughing heartily at all his jokes.
/is his chosen associate, this feeling for him extended to me ;
and gradually we came to be regarded in the light of dis-
tinguished guests. At meal-times we were always ^tst %^x^^"3u^
Bnd otherwise were treated with much respect.

D 2

88 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, dl

Among other devices to kill time, during the frequent calms,
Long Ghost hit upon the game of chess. With a jackknife,
we carved the pieces quite tastefully out o£ bits of wood, and
our board was the middle of a chest-lid, chalked into squares,
which, in playing, we straddled at either end. Having no
other SEuitable way of distinguishing the sets, I marked mine
by tying round them little scarfs of black silk, torn from an old
neck handkerchief. Puttuig them in mourning this way, the
doctor said, was quite appropriate, seeing that they had reason
to feel sad three games out of four. Of chess, the men never
could make head nor tail ; indeed, their wonder rose to such
a pitchy that they at last regarded the mysterious movements
of the game with something more than perplexity ; and after
puzzling over them through several long engagements, they
came to the conclusion that we must be a couple of necro-
mancers

CBAP. X.] A SEA.PARLOUR DESCRIBED. 9t

CHAPTER X.
A 8eft-|Mxloiir described, with some of Us *^nftf|tg,

I HUY as well giye some idea of the place in which the doctor
and I lived together so sociably.

Most persons know that a ship's forecastle embraces the
forward part of the deck about the bowsprit : the same term,
however, is generally bestowed upon the sailors' sleeping-quar-
ters, which occupy a space immediately beneath^ and are par-
titioned off by a bulkhead.

Planted right in the bows, or, as sailors say, in the very eyes
of the ship, this delightful apartment is of a triangular shapes
and is generally fitted with two tiers of rude bunks. Those of
the Julia were in a most deplorable condition, mere wrecks,
some having been torn down altogether to patch up others ; and
on one side there were but two standing. But with most of the
men it made little difference whether they had a bunk or not^
since, having no bedding, they had nothing to put in it bat
themselves.

Upon the boards of my own crib I spread all the old canvas
and old clothes I could pick up. For a pillow, I wrapped an
old jacket round a log. This helped a little the wear and tear
of one's bones when the ship rolled.

Rude hammocks made out of old sails were in many cases
used as substitutes for the demolised bunks ; but the space
they swung in was so confined, that they were far from being
agreeable.

The general aspect of the forecastle was dungeon-like and
dingy in the extreme. In the first place, it was not ^ye feet
from deck to deck, and even this space was encroached upon
by two outlandish cross-timbers bracing the vessel, and by the
sailors' chests; over which you must need& craNA. m ^^\)axis^

D 3

38 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. x.

about. At meal-times, and especially when we indulged in after-
dinner chat, we sat about the chests like a parcel of tailors.

In the middle of all, were two square wooden columns, de-
nominated in marine architecture "Bowsprit Bitts." They
were about a foot apart, and between them, by a rusty chain,
swung the forecastle lamp, burning day and night, and for ever
casting two long black shadows. Lower down, between the
bitts, was a locker, or sailors' pantry, kept in abominable
disorder, and sometimes requiring a vigorous cleaning and
fumigation.

All over, the ship was in a most dilapidated condition ; but in
the forecastle it looked like the hollow of an old tree going to
decay. In every direction the wood was damp and discoloured,
and here and there soft and porous. Moreover, it was hacked
and hewed without mercy, the cook frequently helping himself
to splinters for kindling-wood from the bitts and beams. Over-
head, every carline was sooty, and here and there deep holes
were burned in them, a freak of some drunken sailors on a
voyage long previous.

From above, you entered by a plank, with two elects, slanting
down from the scuttle, which was a mere hole in the deck.
There being no slide to draw over in case of emergency, the
tarpaulin temporarily placed there was little protection from
the spray heaved over the bows ; so that in any thing of a
breeze the place was miserably wet. In a squall, the water
fairly poured down in sheets like a cascade, swashing about,
and afterwards spirting up between the chests like the jets of a
fountain.

Such were our accommodations aboard of the Julia ; but bad
as they were, we had not the undisputed possession of them.
Myriads of cockroaches, and regiments of rats, disputed the
place with us. A greater calamity than this can scarcely befall
a vessel in the South Soas.

So warm is the climate that it is almost impossible to get rid
of them. You may seal up every hatchway, and fumigate the
hull till the smoke forces itself out at the seams, and enough
will survive to repeople the ship in an incredibly short period.
In some vessels, the c;rews of which after a hard fight have
^ven tbemselvea up, as it were, for loat^tU^ \ermin seem to

CBAP. X.] A SEA-PARLOUR DESCRIBED. 89

take actual possession, the sailors being mere tenants bj suf-
ferance. With Sperm Whalemen, hanging about the Line, as
many of them do for a couple of years on a stretch, it is in-
finitely worse than with other vessels.

As for the Julia, these creatures never had such free and
eitfy times as they did in her crazy old hull ; every chink and
cranny swarmed with them ; they did not live among you, but
you among them. So true was this, that the business of eating
and drinking was better done in the dark than in the light of
day.

Concerning the cockroaches, there #as an extraordinary
phenomenon, for which none of us could ever account.

Every night they had a jubilee. The first symptom was an
unusual clustering and humming among the swarms lining the
beams overhead, and the inside of the sleeping-places. This
was succeeded by a prodigious coming and going on the part
of those Uving out of sight. Presently they all came forth ; the
larger sort racing over the chests and planks ; winged monsters
darting to and fro in the air; and the small fry buz2dng in
heaps almost in a state of fusion.

On the first alarm, all who were able darted on deck ; while
some of the sick who were too feeble, lay perfectly quiet— > the
distracted vermin running over them at pleasure. The per-
formance lasted some ten minutes, during which no hive ever
hummed louder. Often it was lamented by us that the time of
the visitation could never be predicted ; it was liable to come
upon us at any hour of the night, and what a relief it was,
when it happened to fall in the early part of the evening.

Nor must I forget the rats : they did not forget me. Tame
as Trenck's mouse, they stood in their holes peering at you like
old grandfathers in a doorway. Often they darted in upon us
at meal-times, and nibbled our food. The first time they ap-
proached Wymontoo, he was actually frightened ; but becoming
accustomed to it, he soon got along with them much better than
the rest. With curious dexterity he seized the animals by their
legs, and flung them up the scuttle to find a watery grave.

But I have a story of my own to tell about these rats. One
day the cabin steward made me a present of Bome mQlafia«&^
which I was ao choice of, that I kept it hid «w«y Vtl ^ >isL ^»so3i

4 ^

M ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. j.

the farthest corner of my bunk. Faring as we did, this mo-
lasses dropped upon a biscuit was a positive luxury^ which
I shared with none but the doctcMr, and then onlj in private.
And sweet as the treacle was, how could bread thus prepared
and eaten in secret be otherwise than pleasant

One night our precious can ran low, and in canting it over in
the dark, something besides the molasses slipped out. How long
it had been there, kind Providence never revealed ; nor were
we over anxious to know ; for we hushed up the bare thought
as quickly as possible. The creature certainly died a luscious
death, quite equal tiiClarence's in the butt of Malmsey.

<BA». n] DOCTOR LONG GH08T A WAGL 41

CHAPTER XL
Boctor Long GbMt m ivmg— One of fak

Grjlte ihoogh he was at times^ Doctor LoK Ghost was a de-
cided wag.

Every one knows what lovers of ftEm sailors are ashore —
afloat, they are absolutely mad afber it. So his pranks were duly
appreciated.

The poor old h\m^ cook ! Unlashing his hammock to the
night, and finding a wet log fast asleep in it ; and Ihen waking
in die morning with his woolly head tarred. Opening his cop-
pers, and finding an old boot boiling away as saucy as could be,
and sometimes <»kes of pitch candying in his oven.

Baltimore's* tribolatioBS were indeed sore; there was no
peace for him day nor night. Poor fellow! he was altogether
too good-natured. Say what they will about easy-tempered
people, it is far better, on some accounts, to have the temper
of a wolf. Who ever thought of taking liberties with gruff
l^ackDan!

The most curious of the doctor^s jokes, was hoisting the men
aloft by the foot or shoulder, when they fell asleep on dedk
during the night-watches.

Ascending from the forecastle €m one occasion, he found
every soul napping, and forthwith went about his capers.
Fastening a rope's end to each sleeper, he rove the lines through
a number of blocks, and conducted them all to tb« windlass ;
then, by heaving round cheerily, in spite of cries and struggles,
he soon had them dangling aloft in all directions by arms and
legs. Waked by the uproar, we rushed up from below, and
found the poor feUows swinging in the moonlight from the tops

* He iraa so called from the place of his birth, being a iMfiiritv^ lSsr^>
UmdsUtrA

42 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. XL

and lower yard-arms, like a parcel of pirates gibbeted at sea by
a cruiser.

Connected with this sort of diversion, was another prank of
his. During the night some of those on deck would come below
to light a pipe, or take a mouthful of beef and biscuit. Some-
times they fell asleep ; and being missed directly that any thing
was to be done, their shipmates often amused themselves by
running them aloft with a pulley dropped down the scuttle from
the fore-top.

One night, when all was perfectly still, I lay awake in the
forecastle; the lam^ was burning low and thick, and swinging
from its blackened beam ; and with the uniform motion of the
ship, the men in the bunks rolled slowly from side to side ; the
hammocks swaying in unison.

Presently I heard a foot upon the ladder, and, looking up,
saw a wide trowsers* leg. Inmiediately, Navy Bob, a stout, old
Triton, stealthily descended, and at once went to groping in the
locker after something to eat.

Supper ended, he proceeded to load his pipe. Now, for a
good comfortable smoke at sea, there never was a better place
than the Julia's forecastle at midnight. To enjoy the luxury,
one wants to fall into a kind of dreamy revery, only known to
the children of the weed. And the very atmosphere of the
place, laden as it was with the snores of the sleepers, was in-
ducive of this. No wonder, then, that after a while Bob's head
sunk upon his breast; presently his hat fell off, the extin-
guished pipe dropped from his mouth, and the next moment
he lay out on the chest as tranquil as an infant.

Suddenly an order was heard on deck, followed by the
trampling of feet and the hauling of rigging. The yards were
being braced, and soon after the sleeper was missed ; for there
was a whispered conference over the scuttle.

Directly a shadow glided across the forecastle and noiselessly
approached the unsuspecting Bob. It was one of the watch
with the end of a rope leading out of sight up the scuttle.
Pausing an instant, the sailor pressed softly the chest of his
victim, sounding his slumbers ; and then hitching the cord to
his ankle, returned to the deck.
HardJjr was bia back turned, vrlieu a\oTi^'^xEk\i ^«& >i}i[is\>&X^Qm.

CHAP. XL] DOCTOR LONG GHOST A WAG. 43

a hammock opposite, and Doctor Long Ghost, leaping^ forth
warily, whipped the rope from Bob's ankle, and fastened it like
lightning to a great lumbering chest, the property of the man
who had just disappeared.

Scarcely was the thing done, when lo ! with a thundering
bound, the clumsy box was torn from its fastenings, and banging
from side to side, flew towards the scuttle. Here it jammed ;
and thinking that Bob, who was as strong as a windlass, was
grappling a beam and trying to cut the line, the jokers on deck
strained away furiously. On a sudden, the chest went aloft,
and striking against the mast, flew open, raining down on the
heads of the party a merciless shower of things too numerous
to mention.

Of course the uproar roused all hands, and when we hurried
on deck, there was the owner of the box, looking aghast at its
scattered contents, and with one wandering hand taking the
altitude of a bump on his head.

44 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [cHAP.m

CHAPTER Xn.

Death and burial of two of the crew.

The mirthfulness which at times reigned among us was in
strange and shocking contrast with the situation of some of the
invalids. Thus, at least, did it seem to me, though not to
others.

But an event occurred about this period, which, in r^noving
bj far the most pitiable cases of suffering, tended to make less
grating to my feelings the subsequent conduct of the crew.

"We had been at sea about twenty days, when two of the sick,
who had rapidly grown worse, died one night within an hour
of each other.

One occupied a bunk right next to mine, and for several days
had not risen from it. During this period he was often delirious,
starting up and glaring around him, and sometimes wildly toss-
ing his arms.

On the night of his decease, I retired shortly after the middle
watch began, and waking from a vague dream of horrors, felt
something clammy resting on me. It was the sick man's hand.
Two or three times during the evening previous, he had thrust
it into my bunk, and I had quietly removed it ; but now I started
and flung it from me. The arm fell stark and stiff, and I knew
that he was dead.

Waking the men, the corpse was immediately rolled up in
the strips of blanketing upon which it lay, and carried on deck.
The mate was then called, and preparations made for an instan-
taneous burial. Laying the body out on the fore hatch, it was
stitched up in one of the hanmiocks, some " kentlege" being
placed at the feet instead of shot. This done, it was borne to
the gangway, and placed on a plank laid across the bulwarks.
Two men supported the inside end. By w«ty of solemnity, the

xn.} DEATH OF TWO OF THE CREW. 45

^p's headwaj was then stopped by hauling aback the main-
top -saiL

The mate, who was far from being sober, then staggered up,
and holding on to a shroud, gave the word. As the plank
tif^ped, the body slid off slowly, and fell with a splash into the
flea. A bubble or two, and nothing more was seen.

"Brace forward!" The main-yard swung round to its
place, and the ship glided on, while the corpse, perhaps, was
still sinking.

We had tossed a shipmate to the sharks, but no one would
haye thought it, to have gone among the crew immediately
after. The dead man had been a churlish, unsocial fellow,
while alive, and no favourite ; and now that he was no more,
fittle thought was bestowed upon him. All that was said, was
ocmceming the disposal of his chest, which, having been always
kept locked, was supposed to contain money. Some one volun-
teered to break it open, and distribute its contents, clothing and
ail, before the captain should demand it.

While myself and others were endeavouring to dissuade them
from this, all started at a cry &om the forecastle. There could
be no one there but two of the sick, unable to crawl on deck.
We went below, and found one of them djring on a chest. He
had fallen out of his hammock in a fit, and was insensible. The
ejres were open and fixed, and his breath coming and going
eonTulsively. The men shrunk from him; but the doctor,
taking his hand, held it a few moments in his, and suddenly
letting it ficill, exclaimed, " He's gone!" The body was instantly
borne up the ladder.

Another hammock was soon prepared, and the dead sailor
stitched up as before. Some additional ceremony, however,
was now insisted upon,^ and a Bible was called for. But none
was to be had, not even a Prayer Book. When this was made
known, Antone, a Portuguese, from the Cape-de-Verd Islands,
stuped up, muttered something over the corpse of his country-
man, and, with his finger, described upon the back of the ham-
fiftoek the figure of a large cross ; whereupon it received the
dead-launch.

These two men both perished from the pTOvec\Aal \Xk<dA»Rx^-
tjooff of seamen, heightened by circumstances appatenX. \\>\3X\i^

40 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, m

either of them been ashore under proper treatment, he would,
in all human probability, have recovered.

Behold here the fate of a sailor ! They give him the last toss,
and no one asks whose child he was.

For the rest of that night there was no more sleep. Many
stayed on deck until broad morning, relating to each other those
marvellous tales of the sea which the occasion was calculated to
call forth. Little as I believed in such things, I could not listen
to some of these stories unaffected. Above all was I struck by
one of the carpenter's.

On a voyage to India, they had a fever aboard, which carried
off nearly half the crew in the space of a few days. After this
the men never went aloft in the night-time, except in couples.
When top-sails were to be reefed, phantoms were seen at the
yard-arm ends; and in tacking ship, voices called aloud &om
the tops. The carpenter himself, going with another man to
furl the main-top-gallant>sail in a squall, was nearly pushed
from the rigging by an unseen hand ; and his shipmate swore
that a wet hammock was flirted in his face*

Stories like these were related as gospel truths, by those who
declared themselves eye-witnesses.

It is a circumstance not generally known, perhaps, that,
among ignorant seamen, Finlanders, or Finns, as they are more
commonly called, are regarded with peculiar superstition. For
some reason or other, which I never could get at, they are sup-
posed to possess the gift of second sight, and the power to wreak
supernatural vengeance upon those who offend them. On this
account they have great influence among sailors, and two or
three with whom I have sailed at different times were persons
well calculated to produce this sort of impression, at least upon
minds disposed to believe in such things.

Now, we had one of these sea-prophets aboard ; an old,
yellow-haired fellow, who always wore a rude seal-skin cap of
his own make, and carried his tobacco in a large pouch made
of the same stuff. Van, as we called him, was a quiet, inoffen-
sive man, to look at, and, among such a set, his occasional
peculiarities had hitherto passed for nothing. At this time,
however, he came out with a prediction, which was none the

CHAP, xn.] DEATH OP TWO OF THE CREW. 47

less remarkable from its absolute fulfilmenty tbougb not exactly
in tbe spirit in whicb it was given out.

Tbe nigbt of tbe burial he laid bis band on the old horse-
shoe nailed as a charm to the foremast, and solemnly told us
that, in lesd than three weeks, not one quarter of our number
would remain aboard the ship — by that time they would have
left her for ever.

Some laughed ; Flash Jack called him an old fool ; but among
the men generally it produced a marked effect. For several
days a degree of quiet reigned among us, and allusions of such
a kind were made to recent events, as could be attributed to no
other cause than the Finn's omen.

For my own part, what had lately come to pass was not with-
out its influence. It forcibly brought to mind our really critical
condition. Doctor Long Ghost, too, frequently revealed his
i^prehensions, and once assured me that he would give much
to be safely landed upon any island around us.

Where we were exactly no one but the mate seemed to
know, nor whither we were going. The captain — a mere cipher
— ^was an invalid in his cabin ; to say nothing more of so many
of his men languishing in the forecastle.

Our keeping the sea under these circumstances, a matter
strange enough at first, now seemed wholly unwarranted ; and
added to all was the thought, that our fate was absolutely in
the hand of the reckless Jermin. Were any thing to happen to
him, we would be left without a navigator, for, according to
Jermin himself, he had, from the commencement of the voyage,
always kept the ship's reckoning, the captain's nautical know-
ledge being insufficient.

But considerations like these, strange as it may seem, seldom
or never occurred to the crew. They were alive only to super-
stitious fears ; and when, in apparent contradiction to the Finn's
prophecy, the sick men rallied a little, they began to recover
their former spirits, and the recollection o^ what had occurred
insensibly faded from their minds. In a week's time, the un-
worthiness of Little Jule, as a sea vessel, always a subject of
jest, now became more so than ever. In the forecastle, Flash
Jack, with his knife, often dug into the dank, to\X^\i ^\axJ^"s>

4S ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH 8EAS. {cmMP. in.

ril>bed between us and death, and flung awaj the splinten
with some sea joke.

As to the remaining invalids^ thej were hardly ill enough to
oocasion any serioua apprehension, at least for the {uresent^ in
the breasts of such thoughtless beings as themselves. And
even those who suffered the most, studiouslj refrained fnm
any expression of pain.

The truth is, that among sailors as a class, sickness at sea is
so heartily detested, and the sick so little cared for, that the
greatest invalid generally strives to mask his sufferings. He
has given no sympathy to others, and he expects none in
return. Their conduct, in this respect, so opposed to their
generous-hearted behaviour ashore, painfully affects the lands-
man on his first intercourse with them as a sailor.

Sometimes, but seldom, our invalids inveighed against their
being kept at sea, where they could be of no service, when
they ought to be ashore and in the way of recovery. But—
" Oh ! cheer up — cheer up, my hearties 1 ** — the mate would say
And after this fashion he put a stop to their murmurings.

But there was one circumstance, to which heretofore I have
but barely alluded, that tended more than any thing else to
reconcile many to their situation. This was the receiving
regularly, twice every day, a certain portion of Pisco^ which
was served out at the capstan, by the steward, in little tin
measures called ^* tots.**

The lively affection seamen have for strong drink is well
known ; but in the South Seas, where it Is so seldom to be
h^, a thorough-bred sailor deems scarcely any price too dear
which will purchase his darling ''tot." Nowadays, American
whalemen in the Pacific never think of carrying spirits as a
ration ; and aboard of most of them, it is never served out
even in times of the greatest hardships. All Sydney whale-
men, however, still cling to the old custom, and carry it as a
part of the regular supplies for the voyage.

In port, the allowance of Pisco was suspended ; with a view,
undoubtedly, of heightening the attractions of being out of
flight of land.

Now, owing to the absence of proper discipline, our sick,
la addition to what they took med\c\naVLy> o^t^n came in for

CBAP. XII.J DEATH OF TWO OF THE CREW. 49

their respectdye " tots*' convivially ; and, added to all this, the
evening of the last day of the week was always celebrated by
what is styled on board of English vessels, " The Saturday-
night bottles." Two of these were sent down into the fore-
castle, just after dark ; one for the starboard watch, and the
other for the larboard.

By prescription, the oldest seaman in each claims the treat
as hiSy and, accordingly, pours out the good cheer and passes
it round like a lord doing the honours of his table. But the
Saturday-night bottles were not all. The carpenter and cooper,
in sea parlance, Chips and Bungs, who were the "Cods,", or
leaders of the forecastle, in some way or other, managed to
obtain an extra supply, which perpetually kept them in fine
after-dinner spirits, and, moreover, disposed them to look
favourably upon a state of affairs like the present.
' But where were the sperm whales all this time ? In good
isooth, it made little matter where they were, since we were in
no condition to capture them. About this time, indeed, the
men came down from the mast-heads, where, until now, they
had kept up the form of relieving each other every two hours.
They swore they would go there no more. Upon this, the
mate carelessly observed, that they would soon be where look-
oats were entirely unnecessary, the whales he had in his eye
(though Flash Jack said they were all in his) being so tame,
that they made a practice of coming round ships, and scratch-
ing their backs against them.

Thus went the world of waters with us, some four weeks or
more after leaving Hannamanoo.

60 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH BRAS. [chap, jul

CHAPTER Xm.
Oar destmation changed.

It was not long after the death of the two men, that Captau
Guy was reported* as fast declining, and in a day or two morei
as dying. The doctor, who previously had refused to enter th(
cabin upon any consideration, now relented, and paid his oU
enemy a professional visit

He prescribed a warm bath, which was thus prepared. Th(
skylight being removed, a cask was lowered down into tb
cabin, and then filled with buckets of water from the ship's cop
pers. The cries of the patient, when dipped into this rude ba^
were most painful to hear. They at last laid him on the tran
som, more dead than alive.

That evening, the mate was perfectly sober, and coming fot
ward to the windlass, where we were lounging, summoned irft th<
doctor, myself, and two or three others of his favourites; when
in the presence of Bembo the Mowree, he spoke to us thus :

" I have something to say to ye, men. There's none bu
Bembo here as belongs aft, so Fve picked ye out as the bes
men for'ard to take counsel with, d'ye see, consarning the ship
The captain's anchor is pretty nigh atrip ; I shouldn't wonde
if he croaked afore morning. So what's to be done ? If w<
have to sew him up, some of those pirates there for'ard maj
take it into their heads to run off with the ship, because there'
no one at the tiller. Now, I've detarmined what's best to h
done ; but I don't want to do it unless Pve good men to back me
and make things all fair and square if ever we get home again.'

We all asked what his plan was.

" rU tell ye what it is, men. If the skipper dies, all agre<
to obey my orders, and in less than three weeks I'll engage U
have five hundred barrels of sperm oil under hatches : enougl
to give every mother's son of ye a handful of dollars when w(

CHAP, xni.] OUR DESTINATION CHANGED. 61

get to Sydney. If ye don't agree to this, ye won't have a
farthing coming to ye." •

Doctor Long Ghost at once broke in. He said that such a
thing was not to be dreamt of ; that if the captain died, the
mate was in duty bound to navigate the ship to the nearest
civilized port^ and deliver her up into an English consul's hands ;
when, in all probability, after a run ashore, the crew would
be sent home. Every thing forbade the mate's plan. " Still,"
said he, assuming an air of indifference, **• if the men say stick
it ont, stick it out say I ; but in that case, the sooner we get to
those islands of yours the better."

Something more be went on to say ; and from the manner in
which the rest r^arded him, it was plain that our fate was in
his hands. It was finally resolved upon, that if Captain Guy
was nor better in twenty-four hours, the ship's head should be
p<Hnted for the island of Tahiti.

Hiis announcement produced a strong sensation — the sick
rallied — and the rest speculated as to what was next to befall
OB ; while the doctor, without alluding to Guy, congratulated
me upon the prospect of soon beholding a place so famous as
the island in question.

The night after the holding of the council, I happened to go
on deck in the middle watch, and found the yards braced sharp
up on the larboard tack, with the South East Trades strong on
our bow. The captain was no better ; and we were off for
Tahiti.

• The men were shipped ** by the lay ; '* in other words, they reoeired
no wages ; bat, by the articles, were entitled to a certain portion of the
profits of the voyage.

jr »

d2 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. in.

CHAPTER XIV.

Rope Yam.

While gliding along on our way, I cannot well omit some
account of a poor devil we had among us, who went by the
name of Rope Yarn, or Ropey.

He was a nondescript who had joined the ship as a landsman.
Being so excessively timid and awkward, it was thought use-
less to try and make a sailor of him ; so he was translated into
the cabin as steward ; the man previously filling that post, a
good seaman, going among the crew and taking his place. But
poor Ropey proved quite as clumsy among the crockery as
in the rigging; and one day when the ship was pitching,
having stumbled into the cabin with a wooden tureen of
soup, he scalded the officers so that they did'nt get over it in
a week. Upon which, he was dismissed, and returned to the
forecastle.

Now, nobody is so heartily despised as a pusillanimous, lazy,
good-for-nothing land-lubber ; a sailor has no bowels of com-
passion for him. Yet, useless as such a character may be in
many respects, a ship's company is by no means disposed to let
him reap any benefit from his deficiencies. Regarded in the
light of a mechanical power, whenever there is any plain, hard
work to be done, he is put to it like a lever ; every one giving
him a pry.

Then, again, he is set about all the vilest work. Is there a
heavy job at tarring to be done, he is pitched neck and shoulders
into a tar-barrel, and set to work at it. Moreover, he is made
to fetch and carry like a dog. Like as not, if the mate
sends him after his quadrant, on the way he is met by the cap-
tain, who orders him to pick some oakum ; and while he is
hunting up a bit of rope, a sailor comes along and wants to
know what the deuce he's after, and bids him be off to the
forecastle.

CHAP. XIV.] ROPE YARN. 58

" Obey the last order," is a precept inviolable at sea. So the
land-lubber, afiraid to refuse to do any thing, rushes about
distracted, and does nothing : in the end receiving a shower of
kicks and cuffs from all quarters.

Added to his other hardships, he is seldom permitted to open
his mouth unless spoken to ; and then, he might better keep
silent. Alas for him ! if he should happen to be any thing of
a droll ; for in an evil hour should he perpetrate a joke, he
would never know the last of it.

The witticisms of others, however, upon himself, must be
received in the greatest good-humour.

Woe be unto him, if at meal-times he so much as look side^
ways at the beef-kid before the rest are helped.

Then he is obliged to plead guilty to every piece of mischief
which ^e real perpetrator refuses to acknowledge ; thus taking
the place of that sneaking rascal, nobody, ashore. In short,
there is no end to his tribulations.

The land-lubber's spirits often sink, and the first result of his
being moody and miserable, is naturally enough an utter neglect
of his toilet.

The sailors, perhaps, ought to make allowances ; but heartless
as they are, they do not. No sooner is his cleanliness ques-
tioned, then they rise upon him like a mob of the Middle Ages
upon a Jew ; drag him into the lee-scuppers, and strip him to
the hxxS, In vain he bawls for mercy ; in vain calls upon the
captain to save him.

Alas ! I say again, for the land-lubber at sea. He is the
yeriest wretch the watery world over. And such was Rope
Yam ; of all land-lubbers, the most lubberly and the most
miserable. A forlorn, stunted, hook-visaged mortal he was too ;
one of those, whom you know at a glance to have been tried
hard and long in the furnace of affliction. His face was an
absolute puzzle ; though sharp and sallow, it had neither the
wrinkles of age nor the smoothness of youth ; so that, for the
soul of me, I could hardly tell whether he was twenty-five or
fififcy.

But to his history. In his better days, it seems he had beei^
a journeyman baker in London, somewhere about Holbom;
and on Sundajrs wore a blue coat and metal \>\iUQiCi3&) «sA «^^ssdi^

K 3

54 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. jov.

bis afternoons in a tavern, smoking his pipe and drinking his
ale, like a free and easj joumejonan baker that he was. But
this did not last long ; for an intermeddling old fool was the
ruin of him. He was told that London might do very well hi
elderly gentlemen and invalids ; but for a lad of spirit, Austraha
was the Land of Promise. In a dark daj Ropey wound up his
affairs and embarked.

Arriving in Sydney with a small capital, and after a while
waxing snug and comfortable by dint of hard kneading, he took
unto himself a wife ; and so far as she was concerned, might
then have gone into the country and retired ; for she effectuallj
did his business. Li short, the lady worked him woe in heart
and pocket ; and in the end, ran off with his till and his fore-
man. Ropey went to the sign of the Pipe and Tankard ; got
fuddled ; and over his fifth pot meditated suicide — an intention
carried out ; for the next day he shipped as landsman aboard
the Julia, South Seaman.

The ex-baker would have fared far better, had it not beeu
for his heart, which was soft and underdone. A kind word
made a fool of him ; and hence most of the scrapes he got into.
Two or three wags, aware of his infirmity, used to " draw him
out*' in conversation, whenever the most crabbed and choleric
old seamen were present.

To give an instance. The watch below, just waked from
their sleep, are all at breakfast ; and Ropey, in one comer, is
disconsolately partaking of its delicacies. Now, sailors newly
waked are no cherubs ; and therefore not a word is spoken,
every body munching his biscuit, grim and unshaven. . At
this juncture an afiable-looking scamp — Flash Jack — crosses
the forecastle, tin can in hand, and seats lumself beside the
land-lubber.

" Hard fare this, Ropey," he begins ; " hard enough, too, for
them that's known better and lived in Lun'nun. I say now,
Ropey, s'posing you were back to Holborn this morning, what
would you have for breakfast, eh ?"

" BEave for breakfast ! " cried Ropey, in a rapture. " Don't
speak of it I"

" What ails that fellow ?" here growled an old sea-bear, tum-
lag' round savagely.

CBAP. xiT.] ROPE YARN. 05

" Oh, nothing, nothing," said Jack ; and then, leaning over
to Rope Yam, he bade him go on, but speak lower.

" Well, then,'* said he, in a smugged tone, his eyes lighting
up like two lanterns, " well, then, I'd go to Mother Moll's that
makes the great muffins : Td go there, you know, and cock my
foot on the 'ob, and call for a noggin o' somethink to begin
with."

" And what then, Ropey ?"
. "Why then. Flashy," continued the poor victim, uncon-
Kiously warming with his theme; "why then, Fd draw my
chair np and call for Betty, the gal wot tends to customers.
Betty, my dear, says I, you looks charmin' this momin' ; give
me a nice rasher of bacon and h'eggs, Betty, my love ; and I
wants a pint of h'ale, and three nice h*ot muffins and butter —
and a slice of Cheshire ; and Betty, I wants — "

"A shark-steak, and be hanged to you I" roared Black Dan,
with an oath. Whereupon, dragged over the chests, the ill-
starred fellow is pummelled on deck.

I always made a point of befriending poor Ropey when I
could ; and, for this reason, was a great favourite of his.

56: ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. xt.

CHAPTER XV, ' ;

Chips and Bungs.

Bound into port, Chips and Bungs increased their devotion
to the bottle ; and, to the unspeakable envy of the rest, these
jolly companions — or " the Partners," as the men called them —
rolled about deck, day after day, in the merriest mood imagin-
able.

But jolly as they were in the main, two more discreet tipplers
it would be hard to find. No one ever saw them take any
thing, except when the regular allowance was served out by
the steward ; and to make them quite sober and sensible, yon
had only to ask them how they contrived to keep otherwise.
Sometime after, however, their secret leaked out.

The casks of Pisco were kept down the after-hatchway,
which, for this reason, was secured with bar and padlock. The
cooper, nevertheless, from time to time, effected a burglarious
entry, by descending into the fore-hold ; and then, at the risk
of being jammed to death, crawling along over a thousand ob-
structions, to where the cas^s were stowed.

On the first expedition, the only one to be got at lay among
others, upon its bilge, with the bung-hole well over. With a
bit of iron hoop, suitably bent, and a good deal of prying and
punchiaig, the bung was forced in ; and then the cooper's JneA"
handkerchief, attached to the end of the hoop, was drawn in
and out — the absorbed liquor being deliberately squeezed into
a small bucket.

Bungs was a man after a bar-keeper's own heart. Drinkmg
steadily, until just manageably tipsy, he contrived to confiBve
so ; getting neither more nor less inebriated, but, to use his own
phrase, remaining "just about right." When in this interesting
state, he had a free lurch in his gait, a queer way of hitching
up his waistbands^ looked unnecessarily steady at you when
speaking, and for the rest, was in -very \.c\fcx^\<i «^Yc\\a» At

CHAP. XV.] CHIPS AND BUNGS. tf

these times, moreover, he was exceedingly patriotic ; and in a
most amusing way, frequently showed his patriotism whenever
he happened to encounter Dunk, a good-natured, square-faced
Dane, aboard.

It must be known here, by the by, that the cooper had a
true sailor admiration for Lord Nelson. But he entertained
a very erroneous idea of the personal appearance of the hero.
Not content with depriving him of an eye, and an arm, he
stoutly maintained that he had also lost a leg in one of his
battles. Under this impression, he sometimes hopped up to
Dunk, with one leg curiously locked behind him into his nght
arm^ at the same time closing an eye.

In this attitude he would call upon him to look up, and behold
the man who gave his countrymen such a thrashing at Copen-
hagen. ''Look you, Dunk," says he, staggering about, and
winking hard with one eye, to keep the other shut, ''Look
you : one man — hang me, half 21. man — with one leg, one arm,
one eye — hang me, with only a piece of a carcass, flogged your
whole shabby nation. Do you deny it, you lubber?"

The Dane was a mule of a man, and understanding but little
English, seldom made any thing of a reply; so the cooper
generally dropped his leg, and marched ofl*, with the air of a
Qaa who despised saying any thing further.

ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. xn.

CHAPTER XVL

We encounter a Gale.

The mild blue weather we enjoyed after leaving the Mar-
quesas, gradually changed as we ran farther south and
approached Tahiti. In these generally tranquil seas, the wind
sometimes blows with great violence ; though, as every sailor
knows, a spicy gale in the tropic latitudes of the Pacific is
far different from a tempest in the howling North Atlantic.
We soon found ourselves battling with the waves, while the
before mild Trades, like a woman roused, blew fiercely, but still
vrarmly, in our face.

For all this, the mate carried sail without stint ; and as for
brave little Jule, she stood up to it well ; and though once in a
while floored in the trough of a sea, sprang to her keel again
and showed play. Every old timber groaned — every spar
buckled — every chafed cord strained ; and yet, spite of all, she
plunged on her way like a racer. Jermin, sea-jockey that he
was, sometimes stood in the fore-chains, with the spray every
now and then dashing over him, and shouting out, " Well done,
Jule — drive into it, sweetheart ! Hurrah ! "

One afternoon there was a mighty queer noise aloft, which
set the men running in every direction. It was the main-t'-
gallant-mast. Crash ! it broke off just above the cap, and held
there by the rigging, dashed with every roll, from side to side,
with all the hamper that belonged to it. The yard hung by a
hair, and at every pitch, thumped against the cross-trees ;
while the sails streamed in ribbons, and the loose ropes coiled,
and thrashed the air, like whip-lashes. " Stand from under P
and down came the rattling blocks like so many shot. The
yard, with a snap and a plunge, went hissing into the sea,
disappeared, and shot its full length out again. The crest of a
great wave then broke over it — the ship rushed by — and we
saw the stick no more.

caiAP. xv!.] WE ENCOUNTER A GALE. 5»

While this liyelj breese oontinaed, Baltimore, our old black
cocky was in great tribulation.

like most South Seamen^ the Julia's '^ caboose," or cook-
house, was planted on the larboard side of the forecastle.
Under such a press of canvas, and with the heavy sea running,
the barque, diving her bows under, now and then shipped green
glassj waves, which, breaking over the head-rails, fairly deluged
that part of the ship and washed clean aft. The caboose-house
— thought to be firmly lashed down to its place — served as a
sort of breakwater to the inundation.

About these times, Baltimore always wore what he called
his "gale-suit ;" among other things, comprising a Sou'-Wester
and a huge pair of well anointed sea-boots, reaching almost to
his knees. Thus equipped for a ducking or a drowning, as the
case might be, our culinary high-priest drew to the slides of
his temple, and performed his sooty rites in secret.

So afraid was the old man of being washed overboard, that
he actually fastened one end of a small line to his waistbands,
and coiling the rest about him, made use of it as occasion
required. When engaged outside, he unwound the cord, and
secured one end to a ring-bolt in the deck ; so that if a chance
sea washed him off his feet, it could do nothing more.

One evening, just as he was getting supper, the Julia reared
up on her stem, like a vicious colt, and when she settled again
forward, fairly disked a tremendous sea. Nothing could with-
stand it. One side of the rotten head-bulwarks came in with a
crash ; it smote the caboose, tore it from its moorings, and after
boxing it about, dashed it against the windlass, where it
stranded. The water then poured along the deck like a flood,
rolling over and over pots, pans, and kettles, and even old
Baltimore himself, who went breaching along like a porpoise.

Striking the taflrail, the wave subsided, and, washing from
side to side, left the drowning cook high and dry on the after-
hatch : his extinguished pipe still between his teeth, and
almost bitten in two.

The few men on deck having sprung into the main-rigging,
sailor-like, did nothing but roar at his calamity.

The same night, our flying-gib-boom snapped off like a pipe-
stem^ and onr spanker'g&ff came down by the xxm.

60 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, xvi

By the following morning, the wind in a great measure had
gone down ; the sea with it ; and by noon we had repaired our
damages as well as we could, and were sailing along as
pleasantly as ever.

But there was no help for the demolished bulwarks ; we had
nothing to replace them ; and so, whenever it breezed again, our
dauntless craft went along with her splintered prow dripping,
but kicking up her fleet heels just as hi p;/! a?, cefore.

CHAP, xm.] THE CORAL ISLANDS. 61

CHAPTER XVn.

The Coral Islands.

How far we sailed to tlie westward afker leaving the Mar-
quesas, or what might have been our latitude and longitude
at any particular time, or how many leagues we voyaged on our
passage to Tahiti, are matters about which, I am sorry to say,
I cannot with any accuracy enlighten the reader. Jermin, as
navigator, kept our reckoning; and, as hinted before, kept it
all to himself. At noon he brought out his quadrant, a rusty
old thing, so odd-looking that it might have belonged to an
astrologer.

Sometimes, when rather flustered from his potations, he went
staggering about deck, instrument to eye, looking all over for
the sun — a phenomenon which any sober observer might have
seen right overhead. How upon earth he contrived, on some
occasions, to settle his latitude, is more than I can tell. The
longitude, he must either have obtained by the rule of three, or
else by special revelation. Not that the chronometer in the
calHU was seldom to be relied on, X)t was any ways fidgety;
quite the contrary ; it stood stock-still ; and by that means, no
doubt, the true Greenwich time — at the period of its stopping,
at least — was preserved to a second.

The mate, however, in addition to his " Dead Reckoning,"
pretended to ascertain his meridian distance from Bow beUs
by an occasional lunar observation. This, I believe, consists
in obtaining, with the proper instruments, the angular distance
between the moon and some one of the stars. The operation
generally requires two observers to take sights, at one and the
jsame time.

Now, though the mate alone might have been thought well
calculated for this^ inasmuch as he generally saw things double
the doctor was usually called upon to play a sort of aecondl
quadrant to Jermin'a first; and what with, tiafe ^^Jg^x^ ^l\yi3D^

69 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, xra

they used to furnish a good deal of diirersion. The mate's
tremulous attempts to level his instrument at the star he was
after, were comical enough. For my own part, when he did
catch sight of it, I hardly knew how he managed to separate it
from the astral host revolving in his own brain.

However, by hook or by crook, he piloted us along ; and be-
fore many days, a fellow sent aloft to darn a rent in the fore-
top-sail, threw his hat into the air, and bawled out ** Land, ho !"

Land it was ; but in what part of the South Seas, Jermin
alone knew, and some doubted whether even he did. But no
sooner was the announcement made, than he came running on
deck, spy.glass in hand, and clapping it to his eye, turned
round with the air of a man receiving indubitable assurance <^
something he was quite certain of before. The land was pre-
cisely that for which he had been steering ; and, with a wind,
in less than twenty-four hours we would sight Tahiti. What
he said was verified.

The island turned out to be one of the Fomotu or Low Group
— sometimes called the Coral Islands — perhaps the most re-
markable and interesting in the Pacific. L3dng to the east of
Tahiti, the nearest are within a day's sail of that place.

They are very numerous; mostly small, low, and level;
sometimes wooded, but always covered with verdure. Many
are crescent-shaped; others resemble a horse-shoe in figure.
These last are nothing more than narrow circles of land, sur-
rounding a smooth lagoon, connected by a single opening with
ike sea. Some of the lagoons, said to have subterranean outlets,
have no visible ones ; the inclosing island, in such cases, being
a complete zone of emerald. Other lagoons still, are girdled by
numbers of small green islets, very near to each other.

The origin of the entire group is generally ascribed to the
coral insect.

According to some naturalists, this wonderful little creature,
commencing its erections at the bottom of the sea, aflter the
lapse of centuries, carries them up to the surface, where its
labours cease. Here, the inequalities of the coral collect all
floating bodies ; forming, after a time, a soil, in wliich the seeds
carried thither by birds, germinate, and cover the whole with
vesgetation. Here and there, all over this arehi^elagp, num-

CHAP, xvu.] THE CORAL ISLANDS. €8

berless naked, detached coral formations are seen, just emerging,
as it were, £rom the ocean. These would appear to be islands
in this yerj process of creation — at any rate, one involuntarilj
concludes so, on beholding them.*

As far as I know, there are but few bread-fruit trees in any
part of the Fomotu group. In many places the cocoa-nut even
does not grow ; though, in others, it largely flourishes. Con-
sequently, some of the islands are altogether uninhabited ; others
supp(»t but a single family ; and in no place is the population
Tery large. In some respects the natives resemble the Tahi-
tians : their language, too, is very similar. The people of the
south-easterly clusters — concerning whom, however, but little
is known — have a bad name as cannibals ; and for that reason
their hospitality is seldom taxed by the mariner.

Within a few years past, missionaries from the Society group
have settled among the leeward islands, where the natives have
treated them kindly. Indeed, nominally many of these people
are now Christians ; and, through the political influence of
their instructors, no doubt, a short time since came under the
allegiance of Pomaree, the Queen of Tahiti ; with which island
they always carried on considerable intercourse.

The Coral Islands are principally visited by the pearl-shell
fishermen, who arrive in small schooners, carrying not more
than five or six men.

For a long while the business was engrossed by Merenhout,
the French consul at Tahiti, but a Dutchman by birth, who, in
one year, is said to have sent to France fifty thousand dollars'
wordi of shells. The oysters are found in the lagoons, and
about the reefs ; and, for half-a-dozen nails a-day, or a compen*
saticm still less, the natives are hired to dive after them.

A great deal of cocoa-nut oil is also obtained in various
places. Some of the uninhabited islands are covered with dense
groves ; and the ungathered nuts which have fallen year after
year, lie upon the ground in incredible quantities. Two or three

♦ The above is the popular idea on the subject But of late a theory
directly the reverse has been started. Instead of regarding the phenomena
Jaft described as indicating any thing like an active, creative power now in
operation, it is maintained, that, together with the entire group, they are
merely the remains of a continent, long ago worn away^ and broken wq by
the action txf the sea.

64 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. FcHAP.xvn.

men, provided with the necessary apparatus for trying out the
oil, will, in the course of a week or two, obtain enough to load
one of the large sea-canoes.

Cocoa-nut oil is now manufactured in different parts of the
South Seas, and forms no small part of the trafl&c carried on
with trading vessels. A considerable quantity is annually ex-
ported from the Society Islands to Sydney. It is used in lamps
and for machinery, being much cheaper than the sperm, and, for
both purposes, better than the right- whale oil. They bottle it
up in large bamboos, six or eight feet long ; and these form
part of the circulating medium of Tahiti.

To return to the ship. The wind dying away, evening came
on before we drew near the island. But we had it in view
during the whole afternoon.

It was small and round, presenting one enamelled level, free
from trees, and did not seem four feet above the water. Beyond
it was another and larger island, about which a tropical sunset
was throwing its glories ; flushing all that part of the heavens,
and making its flame like a vast dyed oriel illuminated.

The Trades scarce filled our swooning sails ; the air was
languid with the aroma of a thousand strange, flowering shrubs.
Upon inhaling it, one of the sick, who had recently shown
symptoms of scurvy, cried out in pain, and was carried below.
This is no unusual effect in such cases.

On we glided, within less than a cable's length of the shore,
which was margined with foam that sparkled all round. Within
nestled the still, blue lagoon. No living thing was seen, and,
for aught we knew, we might have been the first mortals who
had ever beheld the spot. The thought was quickening to the
fancy ; nor could I help dreaming of the endless grottoes and
galleries, far below tjie reach of the mariner's lead.

And what strange shapes were lurking there! Think of
those arch creatures, the mermaids, chasing each other in. and
out of the coral cells, and catching their long hair in the coial
twigs.

CHAi xviii.] TAHITI. 65

CHAPTER XVIII.

Tahiti.

At early dawn of the following morning we saw the Peaks
of Tahiti. In clear weather they may be seen at the distance
of ninety miles.

" Hivarhoo ! " shouted Wymontoo, overjoyed, and running out
upon the bowsprit when the land vras first faintly descried in
the distance. But, when the clouds floated away, and showed
the three peaks standing like obelisks against the sky, and the
bold shore undulating along the horizon, the tears gushed from
his eyes. Poor fellow ! It was not Hivarhoo. Green Hivar-
hoo was many a long league off.

Tahiti is by far the most famous island in the South Seas ;
indeed, a variety of causes has made it almost classic. Its na-
tural features alone distinguish it from the surrounding groups.
Two round and lofty promontories, whose mountains rise nine
thousand feet above the level of the ocean, are connected by a
low, narrow isthmus ; the whole being some one hundred miles
in circuit. From the great central peaks of the larger penin-
sula — Orohena, Aorai, and Pirohitee — the land radiates on all
«ides to the sea in sloping green ridges. Between these are
broad and shadowy valleys — in aspect, each aTempe — watered
with fine streams, and thickly wooded. Unlike many of the
other islands, there extends nearly all round Tahiti a belt of
low, alluvial soil, teeming with the richest vegetation. Here,
chiefly, the natives dwell.

Seen from the sea, the prospect is magnificent. It is one
mass of shaded tints of green, from beach to mountain top ;
endlessly diversified with valleys, ridges, glens, and cascades.
Over the ridges, here and there, the loftier peaks fling their
shadows, and far down the valleys. At the head of these, the
water-falls flash out into the sunlight as if pouring thro\i«l\N«^-
tical bowers of verdure. Such enchantment, too, \iTt2i\)^<e,^ o^^t

66 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, xym

the whole, that it seems a fairy worlds all fresh and blooming
from the hand of the Creator.

Upon a near approach, the picture loses not its attractions.
It is no exaggeration to say, that to a European of any sensi-
bility, who for the first time wanders back into these valleys —
away from the haunts of the natives — the ineffable repose and
beauty of the landscape is such, that every object strikes him like
something seen in a dream ; and for a time he almost refuses
to believe that scenes like these should have a commonplace
existence. No wonder that the French bestowed upon the
island the appellation of the New Cytherea. "Often," says
De Bourgainville, " I thought I was walking in the Garden of
Eden."

Nor, when first discovered, did' the inhabitants of this charm-
ing country at all diminish the wonder and admiration of the
voyager. Their physical beauty and amiable dispositions har-
monized completely with the softness of their clime. In truth,
every thing about them was calculated to awaken the liveHest
interest. Glance at their civil and religious institutions. To
their king, divine rites were paid; while, for poetry, their
mythology rivalled that of ancient Greece.

Of Tahiti, earlier and more full accounts were given, than
of any other island in Polynesia ; and this is the reason why
it still retains so strong a hold on the sympathies of all readers
of South Sea voyages. The journals of its first visitors,
containing, as they did, such romantic descriptions of a country
and people before unheard of, produced a marked sensation
throughout Europe ; and when the first Tahitians were carried
thither, Omai in London, and Aotooroo in Paris, were caressed
by nobles, scholars, and ladies.

In addition to all this, several eventful occurrences, more or
less connected with Tahiti, have tended to increase its celebrity.
Over two centuries ago, Quiros, the Spaniard, is supposed to
have touched at the island ; and, at intervals, Wallis, Byron,
Cook, De Bourgainville, Vancouver, La Perouse, and other
illustrious navigators, refitted their vessels in its harbours.
Here the famous Transit of Venus was observed in 1769.
Here the memorable mutiny of the Bounty afterward had its
origin. It was to the pagans oi TaJcaXi t\iail the first regularly

CHAP, xvm.] TAHITI. 6t

constituted Protestant missionaries were sent ; and from their
shores also have sailed successive missions to the neighbouring
islands.

These, with other events which might be mentioned, have
united in keeping up the first interest which the place awa*
kened; and the recent proceedings of the French have more
than ever called forth the sympathies of the public.

68 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. xh.

CHAPTER XIX.

A Surprise. — More about Bembo:

The sight of the island was right welcome. Going into har-
bour, after a cruise, is always joyous enough ; and the sailor is
apt to indulge in all soi*ts of pleasant anticipations. But to us,
the occasion was heightened by many things peculiar to our
situation.

Since steering for the land, our prospects had been much
talked over. By many it was supposed, that should the captain
leave the ship, the crew were no longer bound by her articles.
This was the opinion of our forecastle Cokes ; though, probably,
it would not have been sanctioned by the Marine Courts of Law.
At any rate, such was the state of both vessel and crew, that
whatever might be the 6vent, a long stay, and many holydays in
Tahiti, were confidently predicted.

Everybody was in high spirits. The sick, who had been im-
proving day by day since the change in our destination, were on
deck, and leaning over the bulwarks ; some all animation, and
others silently admiring an object unrivalled for its stately
beauty — Tahiti from the sea.

The quarter-deck, however, furnished a marked contrast to
what was going on at the other end of the ship. The Mowree
was there, as usual, scowling by himself; and Jermin walked to
and fro in deep thought, every now and then looking to wind-
ward, or darting into the cabin and quickly returning.

With all our light sails wooingly spread, we held on our way,
until, with the doctor's glass, Papeetee, the village metropolis
of Tahiti, came into view. Several ships were descried lying in
the harbour, and among them, one which loomed up black and
large ; her two rows of teeth proclaiming a frigate. This was
the Reine Blanche, last from the Marquesas, and carrying at the
fore, the flag of Rear Admiral Du Petit Thouars. Hardly had
we made her out, when the boominw oi\iet ^xm-s^ Q»ssi<^ ^xer the

CHAP, zix.] A SURPRISE.— MORE ABOUT BEMBO. 69

water. She was firing a salute, which afterwards turned out to
be in honour of a treaty ; or rather — as far as the natives were
concerned — a forced cession of Tahiti to the French, that mom*
ing concluded.

The cannonading had hardly died away, when Jermin's voice
was heard giving an order so unexpected that every one started.
<^ Stand by to haul back the main-yard ! "

" What's that mean ?" shouted the men, "are we not going
into port?"

" Tumble after here, and no words !" cried the mate; and in
a moment the main-yard swung round, when, with her jib-boom
pointing out to sea, the Julia lay as quiet as a duck. We all
looked blank — what was to come next?

Presently the steward made his appearance, canning a mat-
tress, which he spread out in the stern-sheets of the captain's
boat ; two or three chests, and other things belonging to his
master, were similarly disposed of.

This was enough. A slight hint suffices for a sailor.

Still adhering to his resolution to keep the ship at sea in spite
of every thing, the captain, doubtless, intended to set himself
ashore, leaving the vessel under the mate, to resume her voyage
at once ; but after a certain period agreed upon, to touch at the
island and take him off. All this, of course, could easily be
done, without approaching any nearer the land with the Julia
than we now were. Invalid whaling captains often adopt a plan
like this ; but, in the present instance, it was wholly unwar-
ranted ; and, every thing considered, at war with the commonest
principles of prudence and humanity. And although, on Guy's
part, this resolution showed more hardihood than he had ever
been given, credit for, it at the same time argued an unaccount-
able simplicity, in supposing that such a crew would, in any
way, submit to the outrage.

It was soon made plain that we were right in our suspicions ;
and the men became furious. The cooper and carpenter volun-
teered to head a mutiny forthwith ; and, while Jermin was be-
low, four or ii^ve rushed aft to fasten down the cabin scuttle ;
others, throwing down the main-braces, called out to the rest to
lend a hand, and Sll away for the land. A\\t\i\»'^«i'& ^wvfc\X!L«si
instant; and things were looking critical, vj\icii Tyi^\«!c\ATv%

r 3

70 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS; [chap.xdc

Gbost and myself preyailed upon them to wait awhile, and do
nothing hastily ; there was plenty of time, and the ship was coHh
pletely in our power.

While the preparations were still going on ia the cabin, we
mustered the men together, and went into council upon the fore*
castle.

It was with much difficulty that we could bring these rash
spirits to a calm consideration of the case. But the doctcMr^s
influence at last began to tell ; and, with a few exceptions, thej
agreed to be guided by him ; assured that, if they did so, the
ship would eyentually be brought to her anchors, without any
one getting into trouble. Still they told us, up and down, that if
peaceable means failed, they would seize Little Jule, and carry
her into Papeetee, if they all swung for it; but, for the present,
the captain should have his own way.

By this time every thing was ready ; the boat was lowered
and brought to the gangway ; and the captain was helped on
deck by the mate and steward. It was the first time we had
seen hiin in more than two weeks, and he was greatly altered.
As if anxious to elude every eye, a broad-brimmed Payta hat
was pulled down over his brow; so that his face was only
visible when the brim flapped aside. By a sling, rigged from
the main-yard, the cook and Bembo now assisted in lowering
him into the boat. As he went moaning over the side, he must
have heard the whispered maledictions of his crew.

While the steward was busy adjusting matters in the boat, the
mate, after a private interview with the Mowree, turned round
abruptly, and told us that he was going ashore with the captain,
to return as soon as possible. In his absence, Bembo, as next in
rank, would command ; there being nothing to do but keep the
ship at a safe distance from the land. He then sprang into the
boat, and, with only the cook and steward as oarsmeUj steered
for the shore.

Guy's thus leaving the ship in the men's hands, contrary to
the mate's advice, was another evidence of his simplicity ; for,
at this particular juncture, had neither the doctor nor myself
been aboard, there is no telling what they might have done.

For the noace, Bembo was captain ; and, so far as mere sea-
amnahip was coiic6ymed, he was as comi^Xftm \.^ cocomasul «^

CHAP. XIX.] A SURPRISE.— MORE ABOUT BEMBO. 71

any one. In truth, a better seaman never swore. This accom-
plishment, hj the hjf tc^ther with a surprising familiarity with
most nautical names and phrases, comprised about all the English
he knew.

Being a harpooneer, and, as such, having access to the cabin,
this man, though not yet civilised, was, according to sea usages,
which know no exceptions, held superior to the sailors ; and
therefore, nothing was said against his being left in charge of
the ship ; nor did it occasion any surprise.

Some additional account must be given of Bembo. In the
first place, he was far from being liked. A dark, moody savage,
everybody but the mate more or less distrusted or feared him.
Nor were these feelings unreciprocated. Unless duty called, he
seldom went among the crew. Hard stories, too, were told
about him ; something, in particular, concerning an hereditary
propensity to kill men and eat them. True, he came from a
race of cannibals ; but that was all that was known to a cer-
tainty.

TVliatever unpleasant ideas were connected with the Mowree,
• his personal appearance no way lessened them. Unlike most
of his countrymen, he was, if any thing, below the ordinary
height; but then, he was all compact, and under his swieurt,
tattooed skin, the muscles worked like steel rods. Hair, crisp,
and coal-black, curled over shaggy brows, and ambushed small,
intense eyes, always on the glare. In short, he was none of
your effeminate barbarians.

Previous to this, he had been two or three voyages in
Sydney whalemen; always, however, as in the present in-
stance^ shipping at the Bay of Islands, and receiving his
discharge there on the homeward-bound passage. In this way,
his countrymen frequently entered on board the colonial
whaling vessels.

There was a man among us who had sailed with the
Mowree on his first voyage, and he told me that he had not
changed a particle since then.

Some queer things this fellow told me. The following is
one of his stories. I give it for what it is worth ; premising,
however, that from what I know of Bembo, and the f6ol«

r 4

72 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. xix.

hardj, dare-devil feats sometimes performed in the sperm-
whale fishery, I believe in its substantial truth.

As may be believed, Bembo was a wild one after a fish;
indeed, all New Zealanders engaged in this business are;
it seems to harmonize sweetly with their blood-thirsty pro-
pensities. At sea, the best English they speak, is the South
Seaman's slogan in lowering away, ** A dead whale, or a stove
boat!" Grame to the marrow, these fellows are generally
selected for harpooneers; a post in which a nervous timid
man would be rather out of his element.

In darting, the harpooneer, of course, stands erect in the
head of the boat, one knee braced against a support. But
Bembo disdained this ; and was always pulled up to his fish,
balancing himself right on the gunwale.

But to my story. One morning, at daybreak, they brought
him up to a large lone. whale. He darted his harpoon, and
missed ; and the fish sounded. After a while, the monster rose
again, about a mile off, and they made after him. But he was
frightened, or " gallied," as they call it ; and noon came, and
the boat was still chasing him. In whaling, as long as the fish
is in sight, and no matter what may have been previously
undergone, there is no giving up, except when night comes ;
and now-a-days, when whales are so hard to be got, frequently,
not even then. At last, Bembo's whale was alongside for the
second time. He darted both harpoons ; but, as sometimes
happens to the best men, by some unaccountable chance, once
more missed. Though it is well known that such failures will
happen at times, they nevertheless occasion the bitterest dis-
appointment to a boat's crew, generally expressed in curses,
both loud and deep. And no wonder. Let any man pull
with might and main for hours and hours together, under a
burning sun ; and if it do not make him a little peevish, he is
no sailor.

The taunts of the seamen may have maddened the Mowree ;
however it was, no sooner was he brought up again, than,
harpoon in hand, he bounded upon the whale's back, and for one
dizzy second was seen there. The next, all was foam and fury^
and both were out of sight. The men sheered off, flinging

CHAP. XIX.] A SURPRISE.— MORE ABOUT BEMBO. 73

overboard the line as fast as they could ; while a-head, nothing
was seen but a red whirlpool of blood and brine.

Presently, a dark object swam out; the line began to
straighten ; then smoked round the loggerhead, and, quick
as thought, the boat sped like an arrow through the water.
They were *' fast," and the whale was running.

Where was the Mowree? His brown hand was on the boat's
gunwale ; and he was hauled aboard in the very midst of ^e
mad bubbles that burst under the bows.

Such a man, or devil, if you will, was Bemba

U ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. xx.

CHAPTER XX.

The Round Robin. — Visitors from Shore.

After the captain left, the land-breeze died away ; and, as
is visual about these islands, towards noon it fell a dead calm.
There was nothing to do but haul up the courses, run down
the jib, and lie and roll up the swells. The repose of the
elements seemed to communicate itself to the men; and, for a
time, there was a lull.

Early in the afternoon, the mate, having left the captain at
Papeetee, returned to the ship. According to the steward,
they were to go ashore again right after dinner with the
remainder of Guy's effects.

On gaining the deck, Jermin purposely avoided us, and
went below without saying a word. Meanwhile, Long Ghost
and I laboured hard to diffuse the right spirit among the
crew ; impressing upon them that a little patience and manage-
ment would, in the end, accomplish all that their violence
could ; and that, too, without making a serious matter of it.

For my own part, I felt that I was under a foreign flag;
that an English consul was close at hand, and that sailors sel-
dom obtain justice. It was best to be prudent. Still, so much
did I S3rmpathise with the men, — so far, at least, as their real
grievances were concerned, — . and so convinced was I of the
cruelty and injustice of what Captain Guy seemed bent upon,
that, if need were, I stood ready to raise a hand.

In spite of all we could do, some of them again became most
refractory, breathing nothing but downright mutiny. When we
went below to dinner, these fellows stirred up such a prodigious
tumult that the old hull fairly echoed. Many, and fierce too,
were the speeches delivered, and uproarious the comments of
the sailors. Among others. Long Jim, or — as the doctor after-
wards called him — Lacedaemonian Jim, rose in his place, and
addressed the forecastle parliament in the following strain : —

** Look ye, Britons I if, after what's happened, this here craft

^^oes to sea with us, we are no men; and tliat'a the way to say it

Speak the word, my livelieSy and T\\ pV\o\.\vet m, "t-^i^Xi^fewNft

<aAF. XX.] THE ROUND ROBIN.— VISITORS FROM SHORE. 75

Tahiti before, and I can do it." Whereupon, he sat down amid
a universal pounding of chest-lids, and cymballingof tin pans ;
the few invalids, who, as yet, had not been actively engaged with
the rest, now taking part in the applause, creaking their bunk-
boards and swinging their hammocks. Cries were also heard, of
" Handspikes and a shindy ! " " Out stunsails ! " " Hurrah ! "

Several now ran on deck, and, for the moment, I thought
it was all over with us; but we finally succeeded in restoring
some degree of quiet.

At last, by way of diverting their thoughts, I proposed that
a *^ Bound Bobin" should be prepared and sent ashore to the
consul, by Baltimore, the cook. The idea took mightily, and
I was told to set about it at once. On turning to the doctor
for the requisite materials, he told me he had none ; there was
not a fiy-leaf, even, in any of his books. So, after great search,
a damp, musty volume, entitled '<A History of the most
Atrocious and Bloody Piracies," was produced, and its two
remaining blank leaves being torn out, were, by help of a little
pitch, lengthened into one sheet. For ink, some of the soot
over the lamp was then mixed with water, by a fellow of a
literary turn ; and an immense quill, plucked from a distended
albatross's wing, which, nailed against the bowsprit bitts, had
long formed an ornament of the forecastle, supplied a pen.

Making use of the stationery thus provided, I indited, upon a
chest-lid, a concise statement of our grievances ; concluding
with the earnest hope, that the consul would at once come o£f^
and see how matters stood, for himself. Bight beneath the note
was described the circle about which the names were to be
written ; the great object of a Bound Bobin being to arrange
th6 signatures in such a way, that, although they are all found
in a ring, no man can be picked out as the leader of it.

Pew among them had any regular names ; many answering
to some familiar title, expressive of a personal trait ; or, oftener
still, to the name of the place from which they hailed ; and in
one or two cases were known by a handy syllable or two, sig-
nificant of nothing in particular but the men who bore them.
Some, to be sure, had, for the sake of formality, shipped under
1^ feigned cbgnomen, or " Purser's name ;" these^ hovevec,
were aliDost forgotten by themselves ; an^ »o, \^ ^^^ ^^

76 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEA& [chap. xx.

document an air of genuineness, it was decided that eveiy man's
name should be put down as it went among the crew. The
annexed, therefore, as nearly as I can recall it, is something
like a correct representation of the signatures. It is due to the
doctor, to saj, that the circumscribed device was his.

Folded, and sealed with a drop of tar, the Round Robin was
directed to " The English Consul, Tahiti ;" and, handed to the
cook, was by him delivered into that gentleman's hands as soon
as the mate went ashore.

On the return of the boat, some time after dark, we learned
a good deal from old Baltimore, who, having been allowed to
run about as much as he pleased, had spent his time gossipping.

Owing to the proceedings of the French, every thing in
Tahiti was in an uproar. Pritchard, the missionary consul, was
absent in England ; but his place was temporarily filled by one
Wilson, an educated white man, bom on the island, and the son
of an old missionary of that name, still living.

With natives and foreigners alike, Wilson the younger was
exceedingly unpopular, being held an unprincipled and dissi-
pated man, a character verified by his subsequent conduct.
Pritchard's selecting a man like this to attend to the duties of
bis office, had occasioned general dissatisfaction ashore.

Though never in Europe or America, the acting consul had
been several voyages to Sydney in a schooner belonging to the
mission ; and therefore our surprise was lessened, when Balti-
more told us, that he and Captain Guy were as sociable as could
be — old acquaintances, in fact ; and that the latter had taken
up his quarters at Wilson's house. For us, this boded ilL .

The mate was now assailed by a hundred questions as to what
was going to be done with us. His only reply was, that in the
morning the consul would pay us a visit, and settle every thing.

After holding our ground off the harbour during the night, in
the morning a shore boat, manned by natives, was seen coming
off. In it were Wilson and another white man, who proved to
be a Doctor Johnson, an Englishman, and a resident physician
of Papeetee.

Stopping our headway as they approached, Jermin advanced
to the gangway to receive them. No sooner did the consul
touch the deck, than he gave us a epeeim^ii ol ^v^Wx. Vi<^ vras.

CHAP. XX.] THE ROUND ROBIN VISITORS FROM SHORE. 77

'* Mr. JermiD," he cried loftilj, and not deigning to notice
the respectful salutation of the person addressed, ^* Mr. Jerminy
tack ship, and stand off from the land."

Upnon this, the men looked hard at him, anxious to see what
sort of a looking ''cove" he was. Upon inspection, he turned
out to be an exceedingly minute " cove," with a viciously pugged
nose, and a decidedly thin pair of legs. There was nothing else
noticeable about him. Jermin, with ill-assumed suavity, at once
obeyed the order, and the ship's head soon pointed out to sea.

Now, contempt is as frequently produced at first sight as
love ; and thus was it with respect to Wilson. No one could
look at him without conceiving a strong dislike, or a cordial
desire to entertain such a feeling the first favourable opportunity.
There was such an intolerable air of conceit about this man,
that it was almost as much as one could do to refrain from
running up and affronting him.

" So the counsellor, is come," exclaimed Navy Bob, who, like
all the rest, invariably styled him thus, much to mine and the
doctor's diversion. " Ay," said another, " and for no good, I'll
be bound."

Such were some of the observations made, as Wilson and the
mate went below conversing.

But no one exceeded the cooper in the violence with which
he inveighed against the ship and every thing connected with
her. Swearing like a trooper, he called the main-mast to
witness, that if he (Bungs) ever again went out of sight of
land' in the Julia, he prayed Heaven that a fate might be bis —
altogether too remarkable to be here related.

Much had he to say also concerning the vileness of what we
had to eat — not fit for a dog ; besides enlarging upon the im-
prudence of intrusting the vessel longer to a man of the mate's
intemperate habits. With so many sick, too, what could we
expect to do- in the fishery ? It was no use talking ; come
what come might, the ship must let go her anchor.

Now, as Bungs, besides being an able seaman, a " Cod" in
the forecastle, and about the oldest man in it, was, moreover,
thus deeply imbued with feelings so warmly responded to by
the rest, he was all at once selected to ofiiciate as spokesman,
so soon as the conavl should see fit to addreaa us. T\i^ ^^'^^\i;vcpcL

ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. xx.

was made contrary to mine and the doctor's advice ; howeyer,
all assured us they would keep quiet, and hear every thing
Wilson had to say, before doing any thing decisive.

We were not kept long in suspense ; for very soon he was
seen standing in the cabin gangway, with the tarnished tin case
containing the ship's papers ; and Jermin at once sung out fw
the ship's company to muster on the quarter-deck.

The Rouivd-UoVm.

lAP. XD.] PROCEEDINGS OF THE CONSUL. 7^

, CHAPTER XXL

Proceedings of the Consul.

^OE order was instantly obeyed, and the sailors ranged them-
slyes, facing the consul.

They were a wild company ; men of many climes — not at all
recise in their toilet arrangements, but picturesque in their
ery tatters. My friend, the Long Doctor, was there too ; and
rith a view, perhaps, of enlisting the sympathies of the consul
)r a gentleman in distress, had taken more than ordinary pains
rith his appearance. But among the sailors, he looked like a
ind-crane blown off to sea, and consorting with petrels.

The forlorn Rope Yam, however, was by far the most re-
lariLable figure. Land-lubber that he was, his outfit of sea-
lothing had long since been confiscated ; and he was now fain
3 go about in whatever he could pick up. His upper garment
*an unsailor-like article of dress which he persisted in wearing,
hough torn from his back twenty times in the day — was an
Id "claw-hammer-jacket," or swallow-tail coat, formerly be-
)nging to Captain Guy, and which had formed one of his
lerquisites when steward.

By the side of Wilson was the mate, bareheaded, his gray
3ck8 lying in rings upon his bronzed brow, and his keen eye
canning the crowd as if he knew their every thought. His
rock hung loosely, exposing his round throat, mossy chest, and
hort and nervous arm embossed with pugilistic bruises, and
[uaint with many a device in Lidia ink.

Li the midst of a portentous silence, the consul unrolled his
capers, evidently intending to produce an effect by the exceed-
Qg bigness of his looks.

" Mr. Jermin, call off their names ;" and he handed him a
ist of the ship's company.

All answered but the deserters and the two mariners at the
tottom of the sea.

so ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, xxl*

It was now supposed that the Bound Robin would be pro*
duced, and something said about it. But not so. Among the
consul's papers, that unique document was thought to be per-
ceired ; but, if there, it was too much despised to be made a
subject of comment. Some present, very justly regarding it as
an uncommon literary production, had been anticipating all
sorts of miracles therefrom ; and were, therefore, much touched
at this neglect.

" Well, men," began Wilson again after a short pause, " al-
though you all look hearty enough, I'm told there are some sick
iunong you. Now then, Mr. Jermin, call off the names on that
sick-list of yours, and let them go over to the other side of the
deck — I should like to see who they are."

" So, then," said he, after we had all passed over, "yo« are
the sick fellows, are you ? Very good : I shall have you seen
to. You will go down into the cabin, one by one, to Doctor .
Johnson, who will report your respective cases to me. Such
as he pronounces in a dying state I shall have sent ashore;
the rest will be provided with every thing needful, and remain
aboard."

At this announcement, we gazed strangely at each other,
anxious to see who it was that looked like dying, and pretty
nearly deciding to stay aboard and get well, rather than go
ashore and be buried. There were some, nevertheless, who
saw very plainly what Wilson was at, and they acted accord-
ingly. For my own part, I resolved to assume as dying an
expression as possible ; hoping, that on the strength of it, I
might be sent ashore, and so get rid of the ship without any
further trouble.

With this intention, I determined to take no part in any
thing that might happen, until my case was decided upon. As
for the doctor, he had all along pretended to be more or less
■unwell ; and by a significant look now given me, it was plain
that he was becoming decidedly worse.

The invalids disposed of for the present, and one of them
having gone below to be examined, the consul turned round to
the rest, and addressed them as follows : —

" Men, I'm going to ask you two or three questions — let one
of you answer yes or no, and the xeat k^e^ ?>\\ftTA, "Now then:

lAP. XXI.] PROCEEDINGS OF THE CONSUL. 81

[aye you anything to say against your mate, Mr.Jermin?"
nd he looked sharply among the sailors, and, at last, right into
le eye of the cooper, whom every body was eyeing.

** Well, sir,** faltered Bungs, " we can't say any thing against
[r. Jermin's seamanship, but — "

** I want no btUs^ cried the consul, breaking in : " answer
le yes or no — have you any thing to say against Mr. Jermin ?"

'^ I was going on to say, sir, Mr. Jermin 's a very good man ;
ut then — " Here the mate looked marlingspikes at Bungs;
id Bungs, after stammering out something, looked straight
3wn to a seam in the deck, and stopped short

A rather assuming fellow heretofore, the cooper had sported
lany feathers in his cap ; he was now showing the white one.

** So much, then, for that part of the business," exclaimed
Wilson, smartly; "you have nothing to say against him, I
je."

Upon this several seemed to be on the point of saying a good
eal ; but, disconcerted by the cooper's conduct, checked them-
jlves, and the consul proceeded.

"Have you enough to eat, aboard? answer me, you man

ho spoke before."

** Well, I don't know as to that," said the cooper, looking
Kcessively uneasy, and trying to edge back, but pushed forward
gain. " Some of that salt horse ain 't as sweet as it might be."

" That's not what I asked you," shouted the consul, growing
rave quite fast ; " answer my questions as I put them, or I'll
nd a way to make you."

This was going a little too far. The ferment into which the
ooper's poltroonery had thrown the sailors now brooked no
estraint; and one of them — a young American who went by
lie name of Salem* — dashed out from among the rest, and
stching the cooper a blow, that sent him humming over toward
lie consul, flourished a naked sheath-knife in the air, and burst
arth with " I'm the little fellow that can answer your questions ;
list put them to me once, counsellor."

But the " counsellor" had no more questions to ask just then ;

* So called from the place he hailed from ; a well known 8ea-\K)rt qu
ie coast of Massachusetts,

82 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, xxh

fo^ at the alarming apparition of Salem's knife, and the extra*
ordinary effect produced upon Bungs, he had popped his head
down the companion-way, and was holding it there.

Upon the mate's assuring him, however, that it was all oyer,
he looked up, quite flustered, if not frightened, but evidently
determined to put as fierce a face on the matter as practicable.
Speaking sharply, he warned all present to " look out ;" and
then repeated the question, whether there was enough to eat
aboard. Every one now turned spokesman ; and he was as-
sailed by a perfect hurricane of yells, in which the oaths fell like
hailstones.

"How's this I what d'ye mean?" he cried, upon the first
lull ; " who told you all to speak at once ? Here, you man with
the knife, you 11 be putting some one's eyes out yet; d'ye hear,
you sir ? You seem to have a good deal to say, who are yaUf
pray? where did ^ou ship ?"

" I'm nothing more nor a bloody beech^comber^ • retorted
Salem, stepping forward piratically and eyeing him ; " and if
you want to know, I shipped at the Islands about four months
ago."

" Only four months ago ? And here you have more to say
than men who have been aboard the whole voyage ; " and the
consul made a dash at looking furious, but failed. " Let me
hear no more from you, sir. Where's that respectable, grey-
headed man, the cooper? Ac's the one to answer my questions."

" There's no 'spectable, gray-headed men aboard," returned
Salem ; " we're all a parcel of mutineers and pirates ! "

All this time, the mate was holding his peace ; and Wilson,
now completely abashed, and at a loss what to do, took him bj
the arm, and walked across the deck. Eeturning to the cabin-
scuttle, after a close conversation, he abruptly addressed the

* This is a term much in yogae among sailors in the Pacific. It is a]>-
plied to certain roving characters, who, without attaching themselves per-
manently to any vessel, ship now and then for a short cruise in a 'whaler;
but upon the condition only of being honourably discharged the very next
time the anchor takes hold of the bottom ; no matter where, lliey^are,
mostly, a reckless, rollicking set, wedded to the Pacific, and never dreaming
of ever doubling Cape Horn again on a homeward-bound passage. HenM
their reputation is a bad one.

<»AP. XXL] PROCEEDINGS OF THE CONSUL. S9

sailors, without taking any further notice of what had just
happened.

^' For reasons you all know, men, this ship has heen placed
in my hands. As Captain Guy will remain ashore for the pre-
sent, your mate, Mr. Jermin, will conmiand until his recovery.
According to my judgment, there is no reason why the voyage
should not be at once resumed ; especially as I shall see that you
have two more harpooneers, and enough good men to man three
boats. As for the sick, neither you nor I have anything to do
with them ; they will be attended to by Doctor Johnson ; but
I've explained that matter before. As soon as things can be
arranged — in a day or too, at farthest — you will go to sea for
a three months* cruise, touching here, at the end of it^ for your
captain. Let me hear a good report of you, now, when you
oome back. At present, you will continue lying off and on the
harbour. I will send you fresh provisions as soon as I can get
them. There : I've nothing more to say ; go forward to your
stations."

And, without another word, he wheeled round to descend into
the cabin. But hardly had he concluded, before the incensed
men were dancing about him on every side, and calling upon
him to lend an ear. Each one for himself denied the legality of
what he proposed to do ; insisted upon the necessity for taking
the ship in ; and finally gave him to understand, roughly and
roundly, that go to sea in her they would not

In the midst of this mutinous uproar, the alarmed consul stood
fast by the scuttle. His tactics had been decided upon before-
hand ; indeed, they must have been concerted ashore, between
tnm and the captain ; for all he said, as he now hurried below,
sras, ** Go forward, men ; I'm through with you : you should
lave mentioned these matters before : my arrangements are con-
cluded : go forward, I say ; I've nothing more to say to you.**
djid, drawing over the slide of the scuttle, he disappeared.

Upon the very point of following him down, the attention of
:he exasperated seamen was called off to a party who had just
:hen taken the recreant Bungs in hand. Amid a shower of kicks
ind cuffs, the traitor was borne along to the forecastle, where—
] forbear to relate what foUowed.

G 2

84 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, xm

CHAPTER XXn.

The Consul's Departure.

During the scenes just described, Doctor Johnson was engaged
in examining the sick ; of whom, as it turned out, all but two
were to remain in the ship. He had evidently received his cue
from Wilson.

One of the last called below into the cabin, just as the quarter-
deck gathering dispersed, 1 came on deck quite incensed. My
lameness, which, to tell the truth, was now much better, was put
down as, in a great measure, affected ; and my name was on the
list of those who would be fit for any duty in a day or two.
This was enough. As for Doctor Long Ghost, the shore phy-
sician, instead of extending to him any professional sympathy,
had treated him very cavalierly. To a certain extent, there-
fore, we were now both bent on making common cause with the
sailors.

I must explain myself here. All we wanted was, to have the
ship snugly anchored in Papeetee Bay ; entertaining no doubt
that, could this be done, it would in some way or other peace-
ably lead to our emancipation. Without a downright mutiny,
there was but one way to accomplish this : to induce the men
to refuse all further duty, unless it were to work the vessel in.
The only difficulty lay in restraining them within proper
bounds. Nor was it without certain misgivings, that I found
myself so situated, that I must necessarily link myself, how-
ever guardedly, with such a desperate company; and in an
enterprise, too, of which it was hard to conjecture what might
be the result. But any thing like neutrality was out of the ques-
tion ; and unconditional submission was equally so.

On going forward, we found them ten times more tumultuous
than ever. After again restoring some degree of tranquillity,
we once more urged our plan of quietly refusing duty, and

CHAP, xxn.] THE CONSUL'S DEPARTURE. 85

awaiting the result. At first, few would heac of it ; but in the
end, a good number were convinced by our representations.
Others held out. Nor were those who thought with us, in all
things to be controlled.

Upon Wilson's coming on deck to enter his boat, he was beset
on all sides ; and, for a moment, I thought the ship would be
seized before his very eyes.

*' Nothing more to say to you, men ; my arrangements are
made. Go forward, where you belong. Pll take no insolence ;**
and, in a tremor, Wilson hurried over the side in the midst of a
volley of execrations.

Shortly after his departure, the mate ordered the cook and
steward into his boat ; and saying that he was going to see
how the captain did, left us, as before, under the charge of
Bembo.

At this time we were lying becalmed, pretty close in with the
land (having gone about again), our main-top-sail flapping
against the mast with every roll.

The departure of the consul and Jermin was followed by a
scene absolutely indescribable. The sailors ran about deck
like madmen ; Bembo, all the while, leaning against the taff-
rail by himself smoking his heathenish stone pipe, and never
interfering.

The cooper, who that morning had got himself into a fluid of
an exceedingly high temperature, now did his best to regain
the favour of the crew. " Without distinction of party," he
called upon all hands to step up, and partake of the contents of
his bucket.

But it was quite plain that, before offering to intoxicate others,
he had taken the wise precaution of getting well tipsy himself.
He was now once more happy in the affection of his shipmates,
who, one and all, pronounced him sound to the kelson.

The Pisco soon told ; and, with great difficulty, we restrained
a party in the very act of breaking into the after-hold in pursuit
of more.

All manner of pranks were now played.

** Mast-head, there! what d'ye see?" bawled Beauty, hailing
the main-truck through an enormous copper tunnel. " Stand

G 3

86 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, xto

by the stays," ro^ed Flash Jack, hauling off with the cook's
axe, at the fastenings of the main-stay. " Looky out for
'squalls!'' shrieked the Portuguese, Antone, darting a hand^
spike through the cabin sky-light. And, " Heave round cheerlj,
men," sung out Navy Bob, dancing a hornpipe on the fore-
castle.

CHAP, xxm.] THE SECOND NIGHT OFF PAPEETEE. 87

CHAPTER xxm.

The second Night off Papeetee.

Toward sunset, the mate came off, singing merrily, in the
stern of his boat ; and in attempting to climb up the side, suc-
ceeded in going plump into the water. He was rescued by the
steward, and carried across the deck with many moving ex-
pressions of love for his bearer. Tumbled into the quarter-
boat, he soon fell asleep, and waking about midnight, some-
what sobered, went forward among the men. Here, to prepare
for what follows, we must leave him for a moment.

It was now plain enough, that Jermin was by no means un-
willing to take the Julia to sea ; indeed, there was nothing he
so much desired; though what his reasons were, seeing our
situation, we could only conjecture. Nevertheless, so it was ;
and having counted much upon his rough popularity with the
men to reconcile them to a short cruise under him, he had
consequently been disappointed in their behaviour. Still, think-
ing that they would take a different view of the matter, when
they came to know what fine times he had in store for them, he
resolved upon trying a little persuasion.

So on going forward, he put his head down the forecastle
scuttle, and hailed us all quite cordially, inviting us down into
the cabin ; where, he said, he had something to make merry
withaL Nothing loth, we went ; and throwing ourselves along
the transom, waited for the steward to serve us.

As the can circulated, Jermin, leaning on the table and occu-
pying the captain's arm-chair secured to the deck, opened his
mind as bluntly and freely as ever. He was by no means yet
sober.

He told us we were acting very foolishly ; that if we only
stuck to the ship, he would lead us all a jovial life of it ;
enumerating the casks still remaining untapped in the Julia's
wooden cellar. It was even hinted vaguely, that such a thing
mi^ht happen as our not coming back for the c«^\;da£L\ ^VqtsOsi^

o 4

8& ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, [chap.- xxra.

spoke of but lightly ; asserting, what he had often said before,
that he was no sailor.

Moreover, and perhaps with special reference to Doctor
Long Ghost and myself, he assured us generally, that if there
were any among us studiously inclined, he would take great
pleasure in teaching such the whole art and mystery of naviga*
tion, including the gratuitous use of his quadrant.

I should have mentioned, that previous to this, he had taken
the doctor aside, and said something about reinstating him in
the cabin with augmented dignity ; besides throwing out a hint,
that I myself was in some way or other to be promoted. But
it was all to no purpose ; bent the men were upon going ashore,
and there was no moving them.

At last he flew into a rage — much increased by the fre-
quency of his potations — and with many imprecations, con-
cluded by driving every body out of the cabin. We tumbled
up the gangway in high good-humour.

Upon deck every thing looked so quiet, that some of the most
pugnacious spirits actually lamented that there was so little
prospect of an exhilarating disturbance before morning. It was
not five minutes, however, ere these fellows were gratified,

Sydney Ben — said to be a runaway Ticket-of-Leave-Man*,
and for reasons of his own, one of the few who still remained
on duty — had, for the sake of the fun, gone down with the rest
into the cabin ; where Bembo, who meanwhile was left in charge
of the deck, had frequently called out for him. At first, Ben
pretended not to hear ; but on being sung out for again and
again, bluntly refused ; at the same time, casting some illiberal
reflections on the Mowree's maternal origin, which the latter
had been long enough among sailors to understand as in the
highest degree offensive. So just after the men came up from
below, Bembo singled him out, and gave him such a cursing in
his broken lingo, that it was enough to frighten one. The
convict was the worse for liquor ; indeed the Mowree had been

• Some of the most "promising" convicts in New South "Wales are
hired out to the citizens as servants ; thus being, in some degree, permitted
to go at large ; government, however, still claiming them as wards. They
are provided with tickets, which they are obliged to show to any one who
pleases to suspect their being abroad without warrant Hence the above
appellation. This was the doctors explanaXiou oi ii)iii<& x^xiou

CHAP. XXIII.] THE SECOND NIGHT OFF PAPEETEE. 99^

tippliiig also, and before we knew it, a blow was struck hy
Ben, and the two men came together like magnets.

The Ticket-of-Leave-Man was a practised bruiser ; but the
savage knew nothing of the art pugilistic : and so they were
even. It was clear hugging and wrenching till both came to
the deck. Here they rolled over and over in the middle of a
ring which seemed to form of itself. At last the white man's
head fell back, and his face grew purple. Bembo's teeth were
at his throat. Bushing in all round, they hauled the savage o%
but not until repeatedly struck on the head would he let go.

Hie rage was now absolutely demoniac ; he lay glaring, and
writhing on the deck, without attempting to rise. Cowed, as
they supposed he was, from his attitude, the men, rejoiced at
seeing him thus humbled, left him ; after rating him in sailor
style, for a cannibal and a coward.

Ben was attended to, and led below.

Soon after this, the rest also, with but few exceptions, retired
into the forecastle ; and having been up nearly all the previous
night, they quickly dropped about the chests and rolled into '
the hammocks. Li an hour's time not a sound could be heard
in that part of the ship.

Before Bembo was dragged away, the mate had in vain
endeavoured to separate the combatants, repeatedly striking the
Mowree ; but the seamen interposing, at last kept him off.

And intoxicated as he was, when they dispersed, he knew
enough to charge the steward — a steady seaman be it remem-
bered — with the present safety of the ship; and then went
below, where he fell directly into another drunken sleep.

Having remained upon deck with the doctor some time after
the rest had gone below, I was just on the point of following
him down, when I saw the Mowree rise, draw a bucket of
water, and holding it high above his head, pour its contents
light over him. This he repeated several times. There was
nothing very peculiar in the act, but something else about him
struck me. However, I thought no more of it, but descended
the scuttle.

After a restless nap, I found the atmosphere of the forecastle
BO dose, from nearly all the men being down at the same time,
that I hunted up an old pea-jacket and went on ^e^% yoX^ti^^^^
to sleep it out there till morning. Here 1 towcv^i \Xi<^ c.qO&. ^sA

90 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, xxm

steward, Wjinontoo, Hope Yam, and the Dane ; who, bemg all
quiet, manageable fellows, and holding aloof from the rest since
the captain's departure, had been ordered hy the mate not to
go below until sunrise. They were lying under the lee <^ the
bulwarks; two or three fast asleep, and the others smoking
their pipes and conversing.

To my surprise, Bembo was at the helm ; but there being so
few to stand there now, they told me, he had offered to take hia
turn with the rest, at the same time heading the watch ; and to
this, of course, they made no object\pn.

It was a fine bright night ; all moon and stars, and white
crests of waves. The breeze was light but freshening; and
close hauled, poor little Jule, as if nothing had happened, wss
heading in for the land, which rose high and hazy in the
distance.

After the day's uproar, the tranquillity of the scene was
soothing, and I leaned over the side to enjoy it.

More than ever did I now lament my situation — but it was
useless to repine, and I could not upbraid myself. So at last,
becoming drowsy, I made a bed with my jacket under ihe
windlass, and tried to forget myself.

How long I lay there, I cannot tell ; but, as I rose, the first
object that met my eye, was Bembo at the helm; his dark
figure slowly rising and falling with the ship's motion against
the spangled heavens behind. He seemed all impatience and
expectation; standing at arm's length from the spokes, with
one foot advanced, and his bare head thrust forward. Where
I was, the watch were out of sight; and no one else was
stirring ; the deserted decks and broad white sails were gleam-
ing in the moonlight.

Presently, a swelling dashing sound came upon my ear, and
I had a sort of vague consciousness that I had been hearing it
before. The next instant I was broad awake and on my feet.
Right ahead, and so near that my heart stood still, was a long
line of breakers, heaving and frothing. It was the coral reef,
girdling the island. Behind it, and almost casting their shadows
upon the deck, were the sleeping mountains, about whose hazy
peaks the gray dawn was just breaking. The breeze had
freshened, and with a steady gliding inoV.ioii'^^^e.re running
wtraigbt for the reef.

CHAP, xxm.] THE SECOND NIGHT OFF PAPEETEE. SI

All was taken in at a glance ; the fell purpose of Bembo was
•bvious, and with a frenzied shout to wake the watch I rushed
aft. They spranp^ to their feet bewildered ; and after a short,
but desperate scuffle, we tore him from the helm. In wrestling
with bim, the wheel — left for a moment unguarded — flew to
leeward, thus, fortunately, bringing the ship's head to the wind,
and so retarding her progress. Previous to this, she had been
kept three or four points free, so as to close with the breakers.
Her headway now shortened, I steadied the helm, keeping the
sails just lifting, while we glided obliquely toward the land.
To have run off before the wind — an easy thing — would have
been almost instant destruction, owing to a curve of the reef in
tiiat direction. At this time, the Dane and the steward were
still struggling with the furious Mowree, and the others were
running about irresolute and shouting.

But, darting forward the instant I had the helm, the old cook
thundered on the forecastle with a handspike, "Breakers!
breakers close aboard ! — 'bout ship ! 'bout ship ! "

Up came the sailors, staring about them in stupid horror.

** Haul back the head-yards ! " " Let go the lee fore -brace ! "
" Ready about ! about ! " were now shouted on all sides ; while,
distracted by a thousand orders, they ran hither and thither,
fiurly panic-stricken.

It seemed all over with us; and I^was just upon the point
of throwing the ship full into the wind (a step which, saving us
for the instant, would have sealed our fate in the end), when a
sharp cry shot by my ear like the flight of an arrow.

It was Salem : " All ready for'ard ; hard down ! "

Bound and round went the spokes — the Julia with her short
keel spinning to windward like a top. Soon the jib-sheets lashed
the stays, and the men, more self-possessed, flew to the braces.

" Main-sail haul I " was now heard, as the fresh breeze
streamed fore and aft the deck; and directly the after-yards
were whirled round.

In half a minute more we were sailing away from the land
on the other tack, with every sail distended.

Turning on our heel within little more than a biscuit's toss
of the reef, no earthly power could have saved us, were it not
thsl^ vp to the very brink of the coral ram^tarl) 1iNi<^i^ ^^ "sx^

annn/Jtmna.

92 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [ctap. xxnr.

CHAPTER XXIV.

Outbreak of the crew.

The purpose of Bembo bad been made known to tbe men
generally by the watch ; and now that our salvation was certain,
by an instinctive impulse they raised a cry, and rushed toward
him.

Just before liberated by Dunk and the steward, he was
standing doggedly by the mizen-mast ; and, as the infuriated
sailors came on, his bloodshot eye rolled, and his sheath-knife
glittered over his head.

" Down with him ! " " Strike him down ! " " Hang him at
the main-yard ! " such were the shouts now raised. But he
stood unmoved, and, for a single instant, they absolutely fal-
tered.

" Cowards ! '* cried Salem, and he flung himself upon him.
The steel descended like a ray of light ; but did no harm ; f(H*
the sailor's heart was beating against the Mowree's before he
was aware.

They both fell to the deck, when the knife was instantly
seized, and Bembo secured.

" For'ard ! forward with him I ** was again the cry ; " give
him a sea-toss ! ** " overboard with him! " and he was dragged
along the deck, struggling and fighting with tooth and naiL

All this uproar immediately over the mate's head at last
roused him from his drunken nap, and he came staggering' on
deck.

" What's this ? " he shouted, running right in among them.

" It's the Mowree, zur ; they are going to murder him, zur,**
here sobbed poor Rope Yam, crawling close up to him.

" Avast ! avast ! " roared Jermin, making a spring toward

Bembo, and dashing two or three of the sailors aside. At this

moment the wretch was partly ftxmg o\«t \>i"fe \i\i\:w«^&s^'^\ufth

CHAP, xxiv.] OUTBREAK OF THE CREW. 93

shook with his frantic struggles. In vain the doctor and others
tried to save him : the men listened to nothing.

" Murder and mutiny, by the salt sea ! " shouted the mate ;
and dashing his arms right and left, he planted his iron hand
upon the Mowree's shoulder.

" There are two of us now ; and as you serve him, you serve
me," he cried, turning fiercely round.

" Over with them together, then," exclaimed the carpenter,
springing forward ; but the rest fell back before the courageous
front of Jermin, and, with the speed of thought, Bembo, un-
harmed, stood upon deck.

" Aft with ye !" cried his deliverer ; and he pushed him right
among the men, taking care to follow him up close. Giving
the sailors no time to recover, he pushed the Mowree before
him, till they came to the cabin scuttle, when he drew the slide
over him, and stood still. Throughout, Bembo never spoke
one word.

" Now for'ard, where ye belong ! " cried the mate, addressing
the seamen, who, by this time, rallying again, had no idea of
losing their victim.

" The Mowree ! the Mowree ! " they shouted.

Here the doctor, in answer to the mate's repeated questions,
stepped forward, and related what Bembo had been doing ; a
matter which the mate but dimly understood from the violent
threatenings he had been hearing.

For a moment he seemed to waver ; but at last, turning the
key in the padlock of the slide, he breathed through his set
teeth — " Ye can't have him ; 111 hand him over to the consul ;
80 for'ard with ye, I say : when there's any drowning to be
done, m pass the word ; so away with ye, ye bloodthirsty
pirates!"

It was to no purpose that they begged or threatened : Jermin,
although by no means sober, stood his ground manfully, and
before long they dispersed, soon to forget every thing that had
happened.

Though we had no opportunity to hear him confess it, Bem-
bo's intention to destroy us was beyond all question. His only
motive could have been, a desire to revenge the contumely
heaped vpon Mm the night previous, opexalVii^ \x^tv ^ V^as^

94 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, [chap.xxit.

irreclaimably savage, and at no time fratemallj disposed toward
the crew.

During the whole of this Iscene the doctor did his best to save
him. But well knowing that all I could do would have been
equally useless, I maintained my place at the wheeL Indeedi
no one but Jermin could have prevented this murder.

CEAP. zxY.] JERMIN ENCOUNTERS AN OLD SHIPMATE. 95

CHAPTER XXV.

Jermia encounters an old shipmate.

DuBiNG the morning of the day which dawned upon the events
just recounted, we remained a little to leeward of the harbour,
waiting the appearance of the consul, who had promised the
mate to come off in a shore boat for the purpose of seeing
him.

By this time the men had forced his secret from the cooper ;
and the consequence was, that they kept him continually
coming and going from the after-hold. The mate must have
known this ; but he said nothing, notwithstanding all the
dancing, and singing, and occasional fighting which announced
the flow of the Pisco.

The peaceable influence which the doctor and myself had
heretofore been exerting was now very nearly at an end.

Confident, from the aspect of matters, that the ship, after all>
would be obliged to go in ; and learning, moreover, that the
mate had said so, the sailors, for the present, seemed in no
hurry about it ; especially as the bucket of Bungs gave such
generous cheer.

As for Bembo, we were told that, after putting him in
double irons, the mate had locked him up in the captain's
state room, taking the additional precaution of keeping the
cabin scuttle secured. From this time forward we never saw
the Mowree again, a circumstance which will explain itself as
the narrative proceeds.

Noon came, and no consul ; and as the afternoon advanced
without any word even from the shore, the mate was justly in-
censed ; more especially, as he had taken great pains to keep
perfectly sober against Wilson's arrival.

Two or three hours before sundown, a small schooner came
out of the harbour, and beaded over for t\ie a^^omwv^ V^as^^

96 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEA& [cKAP.xrr.

of Imeeo, or Moreea, in plain sight, about fifteen miles distant
The wind failing, the current swept her down under our bows,
where we had a fair glimpse of the natives on her decks.

There were a score of them, perhaps, lounging upon spread
mats, and smoking their pipes. On floating so near, and hear-
ing the maudlin cries of our crew, and beholding their antics,
they must have taken us for a pirate ; at any rate, they got out
their sweeps, and pulled away as fast as they could ; the sight
of our two six-pounders, which, by way of a joke, were now
Tun out of the side-ports, giving a fresh impetus to their
efforts. But they tad not gone far, when a white man, with a
red sash about his waist, made his appearance on deck, the
natives immediately desisting.

Hailing us loudly, he said he was coming aboard ; and afi«f
some confusion on the schooner's decks, a small canoe 'was
launched overboard, and in a minute or two he was with ns.
He turned out to be an old shipmate of Jermin's, one Viner,
long supposed dead, but now resident on the island.

The meeting of these men, under the circumstances, is one
of a thousand occurrences appearing exaggerated in fiction ; but,
nevertheless, frequently realised in actual lives of adventure.

Some fifteen years previous, they had sailed together 88
officers of the bark Jane, of London, a South Seaman. Some-
where near the New Hebrides, they struck one night upon an
unknown reef; and, in a few hours, the Jane went to pieces.
The boats, however, were saved; some provisions also, a
quadrant, and a few other articles. But several of the m^
were lost before they got clear of the wreck.

The three boats, commanded respectively by the captain,
Jermin, and the third mate, then set sail for a small English
settlement at the Bay of Islands in New Zealand. Of course
they kept together as much as possible. After being at sea
about a week, a Lascar in the captain's boat went crazy ; and
it being dangerous to keep him, they tried to throw him over-
board. In the confusion that ensued, the boat capsized from
the sail's ^'jibing ; " and a considerable sea running at the time,
and the other boats being separated more than usual, only one
man was picked up. The very next night it blew a heavy
£^ale; and the remaining boats taking m ^ «aSl) made bundles

CHAP. XXV.] JJERMIN ENCOUNTERS AN OLD SHIPMATE. 97

of their oars, flung them overboard, and rode to them with
plenty of line. When morning broke, Jermin and his men
were alone upon the ocean ; the third mate's boat, in all proba-
bility, having gone down.

After great hardships, the survivors caught sight of a brig,
which took them on board, and eventually landed them in
Sydney.

Ever since then our mate had sailed from that port, never
once hearing of his lost shipmates, whom, by this time, of
course, he had long given up. Judge, then, his feelings, when*
Viner, the lost third mate, the instant he touched the deck,
rushed up and wrung him by the handL

During the gale his line had parted ; so that the boat, drift-
ing fast to leeward, was out of sight by morning. Eeduced,
after this, to great extremities, the boat touched, for fruit, at an
inland of which they knew nothing. The natives, at flrst,
received them kindly ; but one of the men getting into ar
quarrel on recount of a woman, and the rest taking his part,
tl^ were, all massacred but Yiner, who, at the time, was in an
adjoining village. After staying on the island more than two
years, he finally escaped in the boat of an American whaler,
which landed him at Valparaiso. From this period he had con-
tinned to follow the seas, as a man before the mast, until about
eighteen months previous, when he went ashore at Tahiti,
wiiere he now owned the schooner we saw, in which he traded
among the neighbouring islands.

The breeze springing up again just after nightfall, Viner
left us, promising his old shipmate to see him again, three days
henoe^ in Papeetee harbour.

9S ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, [chap.xxvl

CHAPTER XXVL

We enter the harbour — Jim the pilot

Exhausted by the day's wassail, most of the men went below
at an early hour, leaving the deck to the steward and two of
the men remaining on duty ; the mate, with Baltimore and the
Dane, engaging to relieve them at midnight. At that hour,
the ship — now standing off shore, under short sail — was to be
tacked.

It was not long after midnight, when we were wakened in
the forecastle by the lion roar of Jermin's voice, ordering a
pull at the jib-halyards; and soon afterwards, a handspike
struck the scuttle, and all hands were called to take the ship
into port.

This was wholly unexpected ; but we learned directly, that
the mate, no longer relying upon the consul, and renouncing
all thought of inducing the men to change their minds, had
suddenly made up his own. He was going to beat up to the
entrance of the harbour, so as to show a signal for a pilot before
sunrise.

Notwithstanding this, the sailors absolutely refused to assist
in working the ship under any circumstances whatever : to all
mine and the doctor's entreaties lending a deaf ear. Sink or
strike, they swore they would have nothing more to do with
her. This perverseness was to be attributed, in a great
measure, to the effects of their late debauch.

With a strong breeze, all sail set, and the ship in the hands
of four or five men, exhausted by two nights' watching, our
situation was bad enough ; especially as the mate seemed more
reckless than ever, and we were now to tack ship several times
closer under the land.

Well knowing that if any thing untoward happened to the
vessel before morning, it wo\i\d \>^ im^xxt/^ to the oondnct

CHAP. XXVI.] WE ENTER THE HARBOUR. 99

of the crew, and so lead to serious results, should they ever be
brought to trial ; I called together those on deck, to witness
my declaration: — that now that the Julia was destined for the
harbour (the only object for which /, at least, had been strug-
gling), I was willing to do what I could, toward carrying her
in safely. In this step I was followed by the doctor.

The hours passed anxiously until morning ; when, being well
to windward of the mouth of the harbour, we bore up for it, with
the union-jack at the fore. No sign, however, of boat or pilot
was seen ; and after running close in several times, the ensign
was set at the mizen-peak, union down in distress. But it was
of no avaiL

Attributing to Wilson this unaccountable remissness on the

part of those ashore, Jermin, quite enraged, now determined

to stand boldly in upon his own responsibility ; trusting solely

. to what he remembered of the harbour on a visit there many

years previous.

This resolution was characteristic. Even with a competent
pilot, Papeetee Bay is considered a ticklish one to enter.
Formed by a bold sweep of the shore, it is protected seaward
by the coral reef, upon which the rollers break with great
violence. After stretching across the bay, the barrier extends
on toward Point Venus*, in the district of Matavai, eight or
nine miles distant. Here there is an opening, by which ships
enter, and glide down the smooth, deep canal, between the
reef and the shore to the harbour. But, by seamen generally,
the leeward entrance is preferred, as the wind is extremely
variable inside the reef. This latter entrance is a break in the
barrier directly facing the bay and village of Papeetee. It is
very narrow ; and, from the bafliing winds, currents, and
sunken rocks, ships now and then grate their keels against
the coral.

But the mate was not to be daunted; so, stationing what
men he had at the braces, he sprang upon the bulwarks, and,
bidding every body keep wide awake, ordered the helm up
In a few moments, we were running in. Being toward noon,

* The most northerly point of the island; and BO C-^YL^^ tcwsi^^lk
ohBervatojyr being placed there during his first "visit.

100 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, xxvl

the wind was fast leaving us, and, by the titne the breakers
were roaring on either hand, little more than steerage-waj
was left. But on we glided — smoothly and deftly ; ayoidiDg
the green, darkling objects here and there strewn in our path :
Jermin occasionally looking down in the water, and then about
him, with the utmost calmness, and not a word spoken. Just
fanned along thus, it was not many minates ere we were past
all danger, and floated into the placid basin within. This was
the cleverest specimen of his seamanship that be ever gave us.

As we held on toward the frigate and shipping, a canoe^
coming out from among them, approached. In it were a boy
and an old man — both islanders; the former nearly nake4
and the latter dressed in an old naval frock-eoat. Both wei^
paddling with might and main ; the old man, once in a wMle,
tearing his paddle out of the water ; and, after rapping his
companion over the head, both fell to with fresh vigour. Ab
they came within hail, the old fellow, springing to his feet and
flourishing his paddle, cut some of the queerest of capers ; dl
the while jabbering something which at first we could ndt
understand.

Presently we made out the following: — "Ah I you pemif
ah! — you come! — What for you come? — You be fine for
come no pilot. — I say, you hear? — I say, you ita maitai (no

good) — You hear? — You no pilot* — Yes, you d me,

you no pilot 't all ; I d you ; you hear f "

This tirade, which showed plainly that, whatever the puo-
fanc old rascal was at, he was in right good earnest, produced
peals of laughter from the ship. Upon which, he seemed to
get beside himself; and the boy, who, with suspended paddle,
was staring about him, received a sound box over the head,
which set him to work in a twinkling, and brought the canoe
quite near. The orator now opening afresh, it turned out
that his vehement rhetoric was all addressed to the mate, still
standing conspicuously on the bulwarks.

But Jermin was in no humour for nonsense; so, widi i|
sailor's blessing, he ordered him off*. The old fellow then flew
into a regular frenzy, cursing and swearing worse than any
civilised being I ever heard.

xxvL] WE ENTER THE HARBOUR. 101

"You sabbee* me?" he shouted. "You know me, ah?
Wdl: me Jim, toQ pilot — been pilot now long time."

" Ay," cried Jermin, quite surprised, as indeed we all were,
"you are the pilot, then, you old pagan. Why did'nt you come
<»ffbef(»«this?"

** Ah ! me sabhee^ — me know— you piratee (pirate) — see you
long time, but no me come — I sabbee you — you ita maitai nuce
(superlatively bad)."

" Paddle away with ye," roared Jermin in a rage ; " be off ;
or m dart a harpoon at ye !"

But, instead of obeying the order, Jim, seizing his paddle,
parted the canoe right up to the gangway, and, in two bounds,
Btood on deck. Pulling a greasy silk handkerchief still lower
over his brow, and improving the sit of his frock-coat with a
vigorous jerk, he then strode up to the mate ; and, in a more
flowery style than ever, gave him to understand that the re-
doubtable " Jim" himself was before him ; that the ship was
Ms until the anchor was down ; and he should like to hear what
any one had to say to it.

As there now seemed little doubt that he was all he claimed
to be, the Julia was at last surrendered.

Our gentleman now proceeded to bring us to an anchor,
jumping up between the knight-heads, and bawling out " Luff!
luff! heepyoffl keepyoffT and insisting upon each time being
respectfully responded to by the man at the helm. At this
^e our steerage-way was almost gone ; and yet, in giving his
orders, the passionate old man made as much fuss as a white
iquaU aboard the Flying Dutchman.

Jim turned out to be the regular pilot of the harbour ; a post,
be it known, of no small profit ; and, in his eyes, at least, in-
rested with immense importance, f Our unceremonious en-

^ A corruption of the French word savoir, much in use among sailors of
dl nations, and hence made familiar to many of the natives of Polynesia.

f For a few years past, more than one hundred and fifty sail have annu-
lUy touched at Tahiti. They are principally whalemen, whose cruising-
prounds lie in the vicinity. The harbour dues — going to the queen — are
» high, that they have often been protested against Jim, I believe, gets
ive silver dollars for every ship brought in.

n 3

102 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, xxvl

trance, therefore, was regarded as highlj insulting, and tending
to depreciate both the dignity and lucrativeness of his office.

The old man is something of a wizard. Having an under-
standing with the elements, certain phenomena of theirs are
exhibited for his particular benefit. Unusually clear weather,
with a fine steady breeze, is a certain sign that a merchantman
is at hand ; whale-spouts seen from the harbour, are tokens of a
whaling vesseFs approach ; and thunder and lightning, happen^
ing so seldom as they do, are proof positive that a man-of-war
is drawing near.

In short, Jim, the pilot, is quite a character in his way j and
no one visits Tahiti without hearing some curious story aboot
hiuL

nup. xxYii.] A GLANCE AT PAPEETEE. 103

CHAPTER XXVII.
A glance at Papeetee. — We are sent aboard the frigate.

The village of Papeetee struck us all very pleasantly. Lying
in a. semicircle round the bay, the tasteful mansions of the chiefs
ind foreign residents impart an air of tropical elegance, height-
ened by the palm-trees waving here and there, and the deep-
green groves of the bread-fruit in the background. The squalid
kts of the conunon people are out of sight, and there is nothing
to mar the prospect.

All round the water, extends a wide, smooth beach of mixed
pebbles and fragments of coral. This forms the thoroughfare
of the village; the handsomest houses all facing it — the fluctua-
tions of the tides * being so inconsiderable, that they cause no
inconvenience.

The Pritchard residence — a fine large building — occupies a
ite on one side of the bay : a green lawn slopes off to the sea ;
md in front waves the English flag. Across the water, the tri-
oolour, also, and the stars and stripes, distinguish the residences
cf the other consuls.

What greatly added to the picturesqueness of the bay at this
time, was the condemned hull of a large ship, which at the
&rther end of the harbour lay bilged upon the beach, its stem
settled low in the water, and the other end high and dry. From
where we lay, the trees behind seemed to lock their leafy
boughs over its bowsprit ; which, from its position, looked nearly
upright.

She was an American whaler, a very old craft. Having sprung

* The Newtonian theory concerning the tides does not hold good at
Tahiti ; where, throughout the year, the waters uniformly commence ebb-
ing at noon and midnight, and flow about sunset and daybreak. Hence the
term Tooerar'Po is used alike to express high-watei QXi<im\^TA.^x«

H 4

104 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. fcHAP.xxyn.

a leak at sea, she had made all sail for the island, to heave down
for repairs. Found utterly unseaworthy, however, her oil was
taken out and sent home in another vessel ; the hull was then
stripped and sold for a trifle.

Before leaving Tahiti, I had the curiosity to go over this poor
old ship, thus stranded on a strange shore. What were my
emotions, when I saw upon her stem the name of a small town
on the river Hudson! She was from the noble stream on whose
banks I was born ; in whose waters I had a hundred times
bathed. In an instant, palm-trees and elms — canoes and skifb
: — church spires and bamboos — all minged in one vision ci the
present and the past.

But we must not leave Little Jule.

At last the wishes of many were gratified ; and like an aero-
naut's grapnel, her rusty little anchor was caught in the con]
groves at the bottom of Papeetee Bay. This must have been
more than forty days after leaving the Marquesas.

The sails were yet unfurled, when a boat came alongside witl;
our esteemed friend Wilson, the consuL

"How's this, how's this, Mr, Jermin.'*" he began, locking
very savage as he touched the deck. " What brings you ir
without orders?"

" You did not come off to us, as you promised, sir ; and then
was no hanging on longer with nobody to work the ship," wat
the blunt reply.

" So the infernal scoundrels held out — did they? Very good;
rU make them sweat for it," and he eyed the scowling men witl
unwonted intrepidity. The truth was, he felt safer notr, thai
when outside the reef.

" Muster the mutineers on the quarter-deck," he continued
" Drive them aft, sir, sick and well : I have a word to say tc
them."

" Now, men," said he, " you think it's all well with you, I
suppose. You wished the ship in, and here she is. Captair
Guy's ashore, and you think you must go too : but we'll see
about that — I'll miserably disappoint you." (These last were
liis very words.) " Mr. Jermin, call off the names of those who
did not refuse doty, and let them go over to the starboard aidje.'
This done, a list was made out oi \\\e *^ muWw^et^'T ^ ^^

CHAP, xxvxi.] A GLAKCE AT PAPEETEE. 105

was pleased to call the rest. Among these, the doctor and
myself were included ; though the former stepped forward, and
boldly pleaded the office held by him when the vessel left Syd-
ney. The mate also — who had always been friendly — stated
the service rendered by myself two nights previous, as well as
my conduct when he announced his intention to enter the
harbour. For myself, I stoutly maintained, that according to
the tenor of the agreement made with Captain Guy, my time
aboard the ship had expired — the cruise being virtuaMy at an
end, however it had been brought about — and I daimed my
discharge.

But Wilson would hear nothing. Marking something in my
manner, nevertheless, he asked my name and country ; and tiien
observed with a sneer, ^ Ah, you are the lad, I see, that wrote
the Round Robin; 111 take good care of yo«, my fine fellow —
step back, sir."

As for poor Long Grhost, he denounced him as a " Sydney
Flash-Gorger ;" though what under heaven he meant by that
euphonious title, is more than I can tell. Upon this, the doctor
gave him such a piece of his mind, that the consul furiously
commanded him to hold his peace, or he would instantly have
him seized into the rigging, and flogged. There was no help
for either of us — we were judged by the company we kept.

An were now sent forward; not a word being said as to what
he intended doing with us.

After a talk with the mate, the consul withdrew, going aboard
the French frigate, which lay within a cable's length. We now
suspected his object ; and, since matters had come to this pass,
were rejoiced at it. In a day or two the Frenchman wfts to
sail for Valparaiso, the usual place of rendezvous for the English
squadron in the Pacific ; and doubtless, Wilson meant to put us
on board, and send us thither to be delivered up. Should our
conjecture prove correct, all we had to expect, according to
our most experienced shipmates, was the fag end of a cruise in
one of her majesty's ships, and a discharge before long at Ports-
mouth.

We now proceeded to put on all the clothes we could — frock
over frock, and trowsers over trowsers — so as to b^ va. t^svjKl*
ness for removal at a moment's warning. Airtie^ ^\^^ \sStfyH

106 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. xxvn.

nothing superfluous to litter up the deck; and therefore, should
we go aboard the frigate, our chests and their contents would
have to be left behind.

In an hour's time, the first-cutter of the Heine Blanche came
^ongside, manned by eighteen or twenty sailors, armed with
cutlasses and boarding-pistols — the officers, of course, wearing
their side-arms, and the consul in an official cocked hat, bor-
rowed for the occasion. The boat was painted a "pirate
black," its crew were a dark, grim-looking set, and the officers
uncommonly fierce-looking little Frenchmen. On the whole
they were calculated to intimidate — the consul's object, doubt-
less, in bringing them.

Summoned aft again, everyone's name was called separately;
and being solemnly reminded that it was his last chance to
escape punishment, was asked if he still refused duty. The
response was instantaneous : " Ay, sir, I do." In some cases
followed up by divers explanatory observations, cut short by
Wilson's ordering the delinquent into the cutter. As a general
thing, the order was promptly obeyed — some taking a sequence
of hops, skips, and jumps, by way of showing, not only their
unimpaired activity of body, but their alacrity in complying
with all reasonable requests.

Having avowed their resolution not to pull another rope of
the Julia's — even if at once restored to perfect health — all the
invalids, with the exception of the two to be set ashore, accom"
panied us into the cutter. They were in high spirits ; so much
80, that something was insinuated about their not having been'
quite as ill as pretended.

The cooper's name was the last called ; we did not hear
what he answered, but he stayed behind. Nothing was done
about the Mowree.

Shoving clear from the ship, three loud cheers were raised ;
Flash Jack and others receiving a sharp reprimand for it from
the consul.

" Good-bye, Little Jule," cried Navy Bob, as we swept under

the bows. " Don't fall overboard. Ropey," said another to the

poor land-lubber, who, with Wymontoo, the Dane, and others

left behind, was looking over at us from the forecastle.

'^ Give her three more I" cried ^«lem^ ergtm^vn^ to his feet

CHAP.xxvn.] A GLANCE AT PAPEETEE. 107

aad whirling his hat round. '^ You sacre dam raskeel," shouted
the lieutenant of the partj, bringing the flat of his sabre across
his shoulders, " you now keepy steel."

The doctor and myself, more discreet, sat quietly in the bow
of the cutter ; and for my own part, though I did not repent
what I had done, my reflections were far from being enviable.

loe ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, [ghap.zxtiil

CHAPTER XXVm.

Reception from the Frenchman.

In a few moments, we were paraded in the frigate's gangway;
the first lieutenant — an elderly, yellow -faced officer, in an ill-cat
coat and tarnished gold lace — coming up, and frowning upon us.

This gentleman's head was a mere bald spot ; his legs, sticks ;
in short, his whole physical vigour seemed exhausted in the pro-
duction of one enormous moustache. Old Gamboge, as he was
forthwith christened, now received a paper from the consul ;
and, opening it, proceeded to compare the goods delivered with
the invoice.

After being thoroughly counted, a meek little midshipman
was called, and we were soon after given in custody to half-
a-dozen sailor-soldiers — fellows with tarpaulins and muskets.
Preceded by a pompous functionary (whom we took for one
of the ship's corporals, from his ratan and the gold lace on
his sleeve), we were now escorted down the ladders to the
berth-deck.

Here we were politely handcuffed, all round ; the man with
the bamboo evincing the utmost solicitude in giving us a good
fit from a large basket of the articles of assorted sizes.

Taken by surprise at such an uncivil reception, a few of the
party demurred ; but all coyness was, at last, overcome ; and
finally our feet were inserted into heavy anklets of iron, run-
ning along a great bar bolted down to the deck. After this,
we considered ourselves permanently established in our new
quarters.

" The deuce take their old iron ! " exclaimed the doctor ; " if
Pd known this, I'd stayed behind."

" Ha, ha ! " cried Flash Jack, " you're in for it. Doctor Long
Ghost."

" My hands and feet are, any way," was the reply.
The^ placed & sentry over \xa *, a ^xe«ct lubber of a fellow.

CHAP. xxvm.J RECEPTION FROM THE FRENCHMAN. 106

who marched up and down with a dilapidated old cutlass of
most extraordinary dimensions. From its length, we had some
idea that it was expressly intended to keep a crowd in order —
reaching over the heads of half-a-dozen, say, so as to get a cut
at somebody behind.

" Mercy ! " ejaculated the doctor with a shudder, " what a
sensation it must be to be killed by such a tool ! "

We fasted till night, when one of the boys came along with
a couple of " kids" containing a thin, saffron-coloured fluid, with
oily particles floating on top. The young wag told us this was
soup : it turned out to be nothing more than oleaginous warm
water. Such as it was, nevertheless, we were fain to make a
meal of it, our sentry being attentive enough to undo our
bracelets. The " kids " passed from mouth to mouth, and were
soon emptied.

The next morning, when the sentry's back was turned, some
one, whom we took for an English sailor, tossed over a few
oranges, the rinds of which we afterward used for cups.

On the second day nothing happened worthy of record. On
the third, we were amused by the following scene.

A man, whom we supposed a boatswain's mate, from the
silver whistle hanging from his neck, came below, driving before
him a couple of blubbering boys, and followed by a whole
troop of youngsters in tears. The pair, it seemed, were sent
down to be punished by command of an officer : the rest had
accompanied them oat of sympathy.

The boatswain's mate went to work without delay, seizing
the poor little culprits by their loose frocks, and using a ratan
without mercy. The other boys wept, clasped their hands, and
fell on their knees ; but in vain ; the boatswain's mate only hit
out at them ; once in a while making them yell ten times louder
than ever.

In the midst of the tumult, down comes a midshipman, who,
with a great air, orders the man on deck, and mnning in among
the boys, sets them to scampering in all directions.

The whole of this proceeding was regarded with infinite
scorn by Navy Bob, who, years before, had been captain of the
foretop on board a line-of-battle ship. In his estimation, it was
a lubherljr piece of business throughout ; tlttcy ^\^^\ft%^ ^ibSKt-^
entJjr Id the English navy.

110 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, xxbl

CHAPTER XXrX.

The Reine Blanche.

I CANNOT forbear a brief reflection upon the scene ending the
last chapter.

The ratanning of the young culprits, although significant of
the imperfect discipline of a French man-of-war, may also be
considered as in some measure characteristic of the nation.

In an American or English ship, a boy, when flogged, is
either lashed to the breech of a gun, or brought right up to the
gratings, the same way the men are. But as a general rule, he
is never punished beyond his strength. You seldom or never
draw a cry from the yoijng rogue. He bites his tongue, and
stands up to it like a hero. If practicable (which is not
always the case), he makes a point of smiling under the opera-
tion. And so far from his companions taking any compassion
on him, they always make merry over his misfortunes. Should
he turn baby and cry, they are pretty sure to give him after-
wards a sly pounding in some dark corner.

This tough training produces its legitimate results.* The
boy becomes, in time, a thorough-bred tar, equally ready to strip
and take a dozen on board his own ship, or, cutlass in hand, dash
pell-mell on board the enemy's. Whereas the young French-
man, as all the world knows, makes but an indiflerent seaman ;
and though, for the most part, he fights well enough, some how
or other he seldom fights well enough to beat.

How few sea battles have the French ever won ! But more :
how few ships have they ever carried by the hoard — that true
criterion of naval courage I But not a word against French

* I do not wish to be understood as applauding the flogging system

practised in men-of-war. As long, however, as navies are needed, there

is no substitute for it. War being the greatest of evils, all its accessories

necessarily partake of the same character ; and this is about all that can

he said in defence of flogging.

CHAP. XXIX.] THE REINE BLANCHE. Ill

bravery — there is plenty of it ; but not of the right sort. A
Yankee's, or an Englishman's, is the downright Waterloo
" game." The French fight better on land ; and, not being
essentially a maritime people, they ought to stay there. The
best of shipwrights, they are no sailors.

And this carries me back to the Heine Blanche, as noble a
specimen of what wood and iron can make as ever floated.

She was a new ship : the present her maiden cruise. The great-
est pains having been taken in her construction, she was ac-
counted the " crack " craft in the French navy. She is one of
the heavy sixty-gun frigates now in vogue all over the world,
and which we Yankees were the first to introduce. In action,
these are the most murderous vessels ever launched.

The model of the Reine Blanche has all that warlike come-
hness only to be seen in a fine fighting-ship. Still, there is a
good deal of French flummery about her — brass-plates and
other gewgaws, stuck on all over, like baubles on a handsome
woman.

Among other things, she carries a stem gallery resting on the
uplifted hands of two Caryatides, larger than life. You step
out upon this from the commodore's cabin. To behold the
rich hangings, and mirrors, and mahogany within, one is almost
prepared to see a bevy of ladies trip forth on the balcony for
an airing.

But come to tread the gun-deck, and all thoughts like these
are put to flight. Such batteries of thunderbolt hurlers ! with
a sixty-eight-pounder or two thrown in as make-weights. On
the spar-deck, also, are carronades of enormous calibre.

Recently built, this vessel, of course, had the benefit of the
latest improvements. I was quite amazed to see on what high
principles of art some exceedingly simple things were done.
But your Gaul is scientific about every thing ; what other people
accomplish by a few hard knocks, he delights in achieving by a
complex arrangement of the pulley, lever, and screw.

What demi-semi-quavers in a French air ! In exchanging
naval coui:tesies, I have known a French band play " Yankee
Doodle " with such a string of variations, that no one but a
" pretty 'cute " Yankee could tell what they were «i.t.

Id Uie French nayy they have no marines •, ^Ylot m<ei^^ Vq^kv&%

U% ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, [chap.xxm.

turns at carrjiiig the musket, are sailors one moment, and
soldiers the next ; a fellow running aloft in his line-£rock to-daj,
to-morrow stands sentry at the admiral's cabin-door. This is
fatal to any thing like proper sailor pride. To make a man a
seaman, he should be put to no other duty. Indeed, a 4;horoiigh
tar is un£lt for any thing else ; and what is more, this fact is the
best evidence c^ his being a true sailor.

On board the Reine Blanche, they did not have enough to
eat ; and what they did have, was not of the right sort. Instead
of letting the sailors file their teeth against the rim of a hard
sea-biscuit, they baked their bread daily in pitiful little rolls.
Then they had no " grog ;" as a substitute, they drugged the
poor fellows with a thin, sour wine— the juice of a few grapes,
perhaps, to a pint of the juice of water-facets. Moreover, the
sailors asked for meat, and they gave them soup ; a rascally sub-
stitute, as they well knew.

Ever since leaving home, they had been on " short allowance."
At the present time, those belonging to the boats — and thus
getting an occasional opportunity to run ashore — frequently
sold their raticms of bread to some less fortunate shipmate for
sixfold its real value.

Another thing tending to promote dissatisfaction among the
crew was, their having such a devil of a fellow for a captain.
He was one of those horrid naval bores — a great disciplinarian.
In port, he kept them constantly exercising yards and sails,
and manoeuvring with the boats ; and at sea, they were for ever
at quarters ; running in and out the enormous guns, as if their
arms were made for nothing else. Then there was the admiral
aboard, also ; and, no doubt, he too had a paternal eye over
them.

In the ordinary routine of duty, we could not but be struck
with the HstlesS) slovenly behaviour of these men ; there was
nothiug of the national vivacity in their movements ; nothing
of the quick precision perceptible on the deck of a thoroughly
disciplined armed vesseL

All this, however, when we came to know the reason, was

no matter of surprise ; three fourtlis of them were pressed men.

Some old mej*chant sailors had been seized the very day they

Jandecl frank distant voyages ; wViVie t\v^\s^^%Taft\s^ ^i N«\\Qmtbere

CBJLP. xmc.] THE REINE BLANCHE. 113

were many, had been driven down from the country in herds,
and so sent to sea.

At the time, I was quite amazed to hear of press-gangs in a
day of comparative peace : but the anomaly is accounted for by
the fact, that, of late, the French have been building up a great
military marine, to take the place of that which Nelson gave to
the waves of the sea at Trafalgar. But it is to be hoped that
they are not building their ships for the people across the Channel
to take. In case of a war, what a fluttering of French ensigns
ihere would be !

Though I say the French are no sailors, I am far from seek-
ing to underrate them as a people. They are an ingenious and
light gallant nation. And, as an American, I take pride in
asserting it.

114 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [<mip. nt

CHAPTER XXX.

They take lis ashore. — What happened there.

FnnE days and nights, if I remember right, i^e were abownl
the frigate. On the afternoon of the fifth, we were told thattiiB
next morning she sailed for Valparaiso. Rejoiced at thiS| ve
prayed for a speedy passage. But, as it turned out, Hie camA
had no idea of letting us off so easily. To our no email sof-
prise, an officer came along toward night, and ordered us <wt
of irons. Being then mustered in the gangway, we were es-
corted into a cutter alongside, and pulled ashore.

Accosted by Wilson as we struck the beach, he delivered us
up to a numerous guard of natives, who at once conducted us
to a house near by. Here we were made to sit down under a
shade without; and the consul and two elderly European
residents passed by us, and entered.

After some delay, during which we were much diverted by
the hilarious good-nature of our guard — one of our number
was called out for, followed by an order for him to enter the
house alone.

On returning a moment after, he told us we had little to
encounter. It had simply been asked, whether he still con-
tinued of the same mind ; on replying yes, something was put
down upon a piece of paper, and he was waved outside. All
being smnmoned in rotation, my own turn came at last.

Within, Wilson and his two friends were seated magisterially
at a table — an inkstand, a pen, and a sheet of paper, lending
quite a business-like air to the apartment. These three gentle-
men, being arrayed in coats and pantaloons, looked respectable,
at least in a country where complete suits of garments are so
seldom met with. One present essayed a solemn aspect ; but
haying a short neck and a fuU face, only made out to look
stupid.

CHAP. XXX.] THE\ TAKE US ASHORE. 115

It was this individual who condescended to take a paternal
interest in mjselC After declaring my resolution with respect
to the ship unalterable, I was proceeding to withdraw, in com-
pliance with a sign £rom the consul, when the stranger turned
round to him, saying, " Wait a minute, if you please, Mr. Wil-
flOQ ; let me talk to that youth. Come here, my young friend :
Tm extremely sorry to see you associated with these bad men ;
do you know what it will end in ? "

** Oh, that's the lad that wrote the Round Robin," interposed
the ooasuL ^ He and that rascally doctor are at the bottom of
the wiiole afiair — go outside, sir."

I ledzed as from the presence of royalty ; backing out with
many bows.

The evid^it prejudice of Wilson against both the doctor and
jHiyBel^ was by no means inexplicable. A man of any educa-
tion before the mast is always looked upon with dislike by his
captain ; and, never mind how peaceable he may be, should
aay distiirbaiice arise, from his intellectuid superiority, he is
deemed to exert an underhand influence against the officers.

little as I had seen of Captain Guy, the few glances cast
upon me after being on board a week or so, w^e sufficient to
reveal his enmity — a feeling quickened by my undisguised com-
panionship with Long Ghost, whom he both feared and cor-
dially hated. Guy's relations with the consul readily explains
the latter's hostility.

The examination over, Wilson and his friends advanced to
the doorway ; when the former, assuming a severe expression,
{NTonoanoed our perverseness, infatuation in the extreme. Nor
was there any hope left : our last chance for pardon was gone.
Even were we to become contrite, and crave permission to re-
turn to duty, it would not now be permitted,

*^ Oh ! get along with your gammon, counsellor,^' exclaimed
BladL Dan, absolutely indignant that his understanding should
be thus insulted.

Quite enraged, Wilson bade him hold his peace ; and the%
summoning a fat old native to his side, addressed him in Tahi-
tian, giving directions for leading us away to a place of safe
keeping.
HermipoB, being marshalled in order, yntYi. like c\<^ Tsv^asEi ^

I 2

116 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. xxx.

our head, we were put in motion, with loud shouts, along a fine
pathway, running far on, through wide groves of the cocoa-nut
and bread-fruit.

The rest of our escort trotted on beside us in high good hu-
mour ; jabbering broken English, and in a hundred ways giving
us to understand that Wilson was no favourite of theirs, and that
we were prime, good fellows for holding out as we did. They
seemed to know our whole history.

The scenery around was delightful. The tropical day was
fast drawing to a close; and from where we were, the sun
looked like a vast red fire burning in the woodlands — its rays
falling aslant through the endless ranks of trees, and every leaf
fringed with flame. Escaped from the confined decks of the
frigate, the air breathed spices to us ; streams were heard flow-
iiig ; green boughs were rocking ; and far inland, all sunset
flushed, rose the still, steep peaks of the island.

As we proceeded, I was more and more struck by the pictur*
esqueness of the wide shaded road. In several places, durable
bridges of wood were thrown over large watercourses ; others
were spanned by a single arch of stone. In any part of the
road three horsemen might have ridden abreast.

This beautiful avenue — by far the best thing which civiliza-
tion has done for the island — is called by foreigners " the Broom
Road," though for what reason I do not know. Originally
planned for the convenience of the missionaries joume3ring from
one station to another, it almost completely encompasses the
larger peninsula ; skirting for a distance of at least sixty miles
along the low, fertile lands bordering the sea. But on the side
next Taiarboo, or the lesser peninsula, it sweeps through a
narrow, secluded valley, and thus crosses the island in that
direction.

The uninhabited interior, being almost impenetrable from
the densely wooded glens, frightful precipices, and sharp
mountain ridges absolutely inaccessible, is but little known,
even to the natives themselves ; and so, instead of striking
directly across from one village to another, they follow the
Broom Road round and round.*

* Concemhig the singular iguoTsoiee oi ^<& u«.>a^«% x^'s^^^^ydj^^Jdavc own

CEAP. XXX.] THEY TAKE US ASHORE. 117

It is by no means, however, altogether travelled on foot;
horses being now quite plentiful. They were introduced from
Chili ; and, possessing all the gaiety, fleetness, and docility of
the Spanish breed, are admirably adapted to the tastes of the
higher classes, who as equestrians have become very expert.
The missionaries and chiefs never think of journeying except
in the saddle ; and at all hours of the day you see the latter
galloping along at full speed. Like the Sandwich Islanders,
they ride like Pawnee-Loups.

For miles and miles I have travelled the Broom Road, and
never wearied of the continual change of scenery. But where-
ever it leads you — whether through level woods, across grassy
glens, or over hills waving with palms — the bright blue sea on
one side, and the green mountain pinnacles on the other, are
always in sight.

eountiy, it may be here observed, that a considerable inland lake — Whai-
herea by name — is known to exist, although their accounts of it strangely^
Tuy. Some told me it had no bottom, no outlet, and no inlet ; others, that
it fed all the streams on the island. A sailor of my acquaintance said
that he once visited this marvellous lake, as one of an exploring party from
an English sloop-of-war. It was found to be a great curiosity; very
imaD, deep, and green ; a choice well of water bottled up among the
moontaina, and abounding with delicious fish.

118 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [cHAF.xxa

CHAPTER XXXI.

The Calabooza Beretanee.

About a mile from the village we come to a halt.

It was a beautiful spot. A mountain stream here flowed at
the foot of a verdant slope ; on one hand, it murmured along
imtil the waters, spreading themselves upon a beach of smaU,,
sparkling shells, trickled into the sea ; on the other, was a long
defile, where the eye pursued a gleaming, sinuous thread, lost
in shade and verdure.

The ground next the road was walled in by a low, rude
parapet of stones ; and, upon the summit of the slope beyood,
was a large, native house, the thatch dazzHx^ white, and, in
shape, an oval.

" Calabooza ! Calabooza Beretanee ! " (the English Jai!)^
cried our conductor, pointing to the building.

For a few months past, having been used by the consul as a
house of confinement for his refractory sailors, it was thus
styled to distinguish it from similar places in and about
Papeetee.

Though extremely romantic in appearance, on a near 9^
proach it proved but ill adapted to domestic comfort. In
short, it was a mere shell, recently built, and still unfinished.
It was open all round, and tufts of grass were growing here
and there under the very roof. The only piece of furniture
was the "stocks," a clumsy machine for keeping people in
one place, which, I believe, is pretty much out of date in most
countries. It is still in use, however, among the Spaniards in
South America ; from whom, it seems, the Tahitians have bor-
rowed the contrivance, as well as the name by which all places
of confinement are known among them.

The stocks were nothing more than two stout timbers, about
twentjr feet in length, and preciaeVy ilvka. One was placed

CHAP. XXXI.] THE CALABOOZA BERET ANEE. 119

edgeways on the ground, and the other resting on top, left, at
regular intervals along the seam, several round holes, the object
of which was evident at a glance.

Bj this time our guide had informed us that he went by the
naiae of " Capin Bob ** (Captain Bob) ; and a hearty old Bob he
proved. It was just the name for him. From the fii*st, so
pleased were we with the old man, that we cheerfully acquiesced
in his authprity.

Entering tl^ building, he set us about fetching heaps of dry
leaves to spread behind the stocks for a couch. A trunk of a
small cocoa-nut tree was then placed for a bolster— rather a
hurd one, but the natives are used to it. For a pillow, they
rm a little billet of wood, scooped out, and standing on four
ahflrt legs — a sort of head-stooL

These arrangements completed, Captain Bob proceeded to
^^hannapar," or secure us, for the night. The upper timber
of the macliine being lifted at one end, and our ankles placed
in the semicircular spaces of the lower one, the other beam
WIS then dropped ; both being finally secured together by an
old inm hoop at either extremity. This initiation was per-
f<Mined to the boisterous mirth of the natives, and diverted
ouraelYes not a little.

Captain Bob now bustled about, like an old woman seeing
tlie children to bed. A basket of baked *< taro," or Indian
tvrnip^ was brought in, and we were given a piece all round.
Then a great counterpane, c^ coarse, brown ^'tappa^" waa
stretched over the whole party ; and, after sundry injunctions
to " moee-moee," and be "maitai" — in other words, to go ta
flle^ and be good boys — we were left to ourselves;, fairly put
to bed and tucked in.

Much talk was now had concerning our prospects in life ;
but tba doctor and I, who lay side by side, thinking the occa-
aun better adapted to meditation, kept pretty silent ; and, be-
fbve loDga the rest ceased conversing, and, wearied with loss
of rest on board the frigate, were soon sound asleep.

After sliding from one revery into another, I started^ and
gawe the doctor a pinch. He was dreaming, however ; and,
aoaolved to foUow his example, I troubled him no more.
. Bow the rest znanaged, I know not •, \i\ifc, tot loj wpa. "^wii^

I 4

120 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEA& [chap. xxn.

I found it very hard to get asleep. The consciousness of
having one's foot pinned^ and the impossibiCtj of getting it
anywhere else than just where it was, was most distressing.

But this was not all ; there was no way of lying but straight
on your back ; unless, to be sure, one's limb went round and
round in the ankle, like a swivel. Upon getting into a soft
of doze, it was no wonder this uneasy posture gave me the
nightmare. Under the delusion that I was about some gym-
nastics or other, I gave my unfortunate member such a twitch,
that I started up with the idea that some one was dragging the
stocks away.

Captain Bob and his friends lived in a little hamlet hard bj;
and when morning showed in the East, the old gentleman came
forth from that direction likewise, emerging from a grove, and
saluting us loudly as he approached.

Finding every body awake, he set us at liberty ; and, lead-
ing us down to the stream, ordered every man to strip and
bathe.

" All ban's, my boy, hanna-hanna, wash ! " he cried. Bob
was a linguist, and had been to sea in his day, as he many a
time afterward told us.

At this moment, we were all alone with him ; and it would
have been the easiest thing in the world to have given him the
slip ; but he seemed to have no idea of such a thing ; treating
us so frankly and cordially, indeed, that even had we thought
of running, we would have been ashamed of attempting it
He very well knew, nevertheless (as we ourselves were not
slow in finding out), that, for various reasons, any attempt of
the kind, without some previously arranged plan for leaving the
island, would be certain to fail.

As Bob was a rare one every way, I must give some account
of him. There was a good deal of " personal appearance ^
about him ; in short, he was a corpulent giant, over six feet in
height, and literally as big round as a hogshead. The enormous
bulk of some of the Tahitians has been frequently spoken of by
voyagers.

Beside being the English consul's jailor, as it were, he carried

on a little Tahitian farming ; that is to say, he owned several

grorea of the bread-fruit and pa\m, oa^ li^^^x \£viA<st^tkeir

CHAP, xxxl] the CALABOOZA BERETANEE. 121

growing. Close by was a " tare " patch of his, which he occa-
sionally visited.

Bob seldom disposed of the produce of his lands ; it was all
needed for domestic consumption. Indeed, for gormandising^
r would have matched him against any three common-council-
men at a civic feast.

A friend of Bob's told me, that, owing to his voraciousness,
his visits to other parts of the island were much dreaded ; for,
according to Tahitian customs, hospitality without charge is
?< enjoined upon every one ; and though it is reciprocal in most
cases, in Bob's it was almost out of the question. The damage
^ done to a native larder in one of his morning calls was more
than could be made good by his entertainer's spending the
blydays with him.

The old man, as I have hinted, had, once upon a time, been
a cruise or two in a whaling- vessel ; and, therefore, he prided
^umself upon his English. Having acquired what he knew of
it in the forecastle, he talked little else than sailor phrases, which
sonoded whimsically enough.

I asked him one day how old he was. " Olee ! " he exclaimed,
looking very profound in consequence of thoroughly understand-
ing so subtile a question — " Oh! very olee — 'tousand 'ear —
more — big man when Capin Tootee (Captain Cook) heavey in
sight " (in sea parlance, came into view).

This was a thing impossible ; but adapting my discourse to
the man, I rejoined — " Ah ! you see Capin Tootee — well, how
you like him?"
" Oh ! he maitai (good) : friend of me, and know my wife."
On my assuring him strongly, that he could not have been
bom at the time, he explained himself by saying, that he was
speaking of his father all the while. This, indeed, might very
well have been.

It is a curious fact, that all these people, young and old, will
tell you that they have enjoyed the honour of a personal ac-
quaintance with the great navigator ; and if you listen to them,
they will go on and tell anecdotes without end. This springs
from nothing but their great desire to please ; well knowing that
a more agreeable topic for a white man could not be selected.

128 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, xxxl

As for the anachronism of the thing, thej seem to have no idea
of it : days and yvears are all the same to them.

After our sunrise bath. Bob once more placed us in the stocb,
almoBt moved to tears at subjecting us to so great a hardship;
but he could not treat us otherwise, he said^ on pain of ^e
consul's displeasure. How long we were to be confined, he did
not knov ; nor what was to be done with us in the end.

As noon advanced, and no signs of a meal were visible, some
one inquired whether we were to be boarded, as well as lodged,
at the Hotel de Calabooza ?

" Vast heavey " (avast heaving, or wait a bit) — said Bob—
" kow-kow " (food) " come ship by by."

And, sure enough, along comes Rope Tarn with a wooden
bucket of the Julia's villanous biscuit. With a grin, he said it
was a present from Wilscm ; it was all we were to get that day.
A great cry was now raised ; and well was it for the land-lubber,
^t he had a pair of legs, and the men could not use thein.
One and all, we resolved not to touch the bread, come what
come might ; and so we told the natives.

Being extravagantly fond of ship-biscuit — the harder the
better — they were quite overjoyed ; and offSered to give us every
day a small quantity of baked bread-fruit and Indian turnip in
exchange for the iMreajd. This we agreed to ; and every morn-
ing afterward, when the bucket came, its contents were at once
handed over to Bob and his friends, who never ceased mmidi-
ing until nightfalL

Our exceedingly frugal meal of bread-fruit over, Captain Bdb
waddled up to us with a couple of long poles hodked at one end,
and several large baskets of woven cocoa-nut branches.

Not far off was an extensive grove of orange trees in full
bearing ; and myself and another were selected to go with him,
and gather a supply for the party. When we went in among
the trees, the sumptuousness of the orchard was imlike any thing
I had ever seen ; while the fragrance shaken from the gently
waving boughs regaled our senses most delightfully.

In many places the trees formed a dense shade, spreading

overhead a dark, rustling vault, groined with boughs, and

sladded here and there with the ripened spheres, like gilded

balJg. In several places, the overlad^Ti \iTMxchftia were borne to

WAF. xxxL] THE CALABOOZA BERETANEE. laa

the earth, biding the trunk in a tent of foliage. Once fairly in
the grove, we could see nothing else : it was oranges all round.
To preserve the fruit from bruising, Bob, hooking the twigs
with his pole, let them fall into his basket. But this would not
do for us ; seizing hold of a bough, we brought such a shower to
the ground, that our old friend was fain to run from under.
Heedless of remonstrance, we then reclined in the shade, and
feasted to our heart's content. Heaping up the baskets after-
ward, we returned to our comrades, by whom our arrival was
bailed with loud plaudits; and in a marvellously short time^
nothing was left of the oranges we brought but the rinds.

While inmates of the Calabooza, we had as much of the
fruit as we wanted ; and to this cause, and others that might be
i&entioned, may be ascribed the speedy restoration of our sick
to comparative health.

The orange of Tahiti is delicious — small and sweet, with
I thin, dry rind. Though now abounding, it was unknown
before Cook's time, to whom the natives are indebted for so
great a blessing. He likewise introduced several other kinds
of fruit ; among these were the &g, pine-apple, and lemon, now
aeldoia met with. The lime still grows, and some of the
poorer natives express the juice to sell to the shipping. It is
highly valued as an anti-scorbutic. Nor was the variety of
^Mreign &uits and vegetables which were introduced the only
benefit conferred by the first visitors to the Society group.
Cattle and sheep were left at various places. M.(xe of them
aaon.

Thus, after all that have of late years been done for these
iafauaderS) Cook and Vancouver may, in one sense at least, be
CMiBidered their greatest benefactors.

124 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, xxxil

CHAPTER XXXn.

Proceedings of the French at Tahiti

As I happened to arrive at the island at a very interesting
period in its political affairs, it may be well to give some Uttle
account here of the proceedings of the French, by way of
episode to the narrative. My information was obtained at the
time from the general reports then rife among the natives, as
well as from what I learned upon a subsequent visit, and re-
liable accounts which I have seen since reaching home.

It seems, that for some time back the French had been
making repeated ineffectual attempts to plant a Roman Catholic
mission here. But, invariably treated with contumely, they
sometimes met with open violence ; and, in every case, those
directly concerned in the enterprise were ultimately forced to
depart. In one instance, two priests, Laval and Caset, after
enduring a series of persecutions, were set upon by the natives,
maltreated, and finally carried aboard a small trading schooner,
which eventually put them ashore at Wallis Island — a savage
place — some two thousand miles to the westward.

Now, that the resident English missionaries authorised the
banishment of these priests, is a fact undenied by themselves.
I was also repeatedly informed, that by their inflammatory
harangues they instigated the riots which preceded the sailing of
the schooner. At all events, it is certain that their unbounded
influence with the natives would easily have enabled them to
prevent every thing that took place on this occasion, had they
felt so inclined.

Melancholy as such an example of intolerance on the part of

Protestant missionaries must appear, it is not the only one, and

by no means the most flagrant, which might be presented. But

I forbear to mention any others ; since they have been more than

hinted at bj recent voyagers, an^^Kraxe^^Xx^oivViare would,

CHAP. Mxn.] THE FRENCH AT TAHITL 125

perhaps, be attended with no good effect. Besides, the conduct
of the Sandwich Island missionaries, in particular, has latterly
much amended in this respect.

The treatment of the two priests formed the principal ground
(and the only justifiable one) upon which Du Petit Thenars
demanded satisfaction ; and which subsequently led to his
seizure of the island. In addition to other things, he also
charged, that the flag of Merenhout, the consul, had been re-
peatedly insulted, and the property of a certain French resident
violently appropriated by the government. In the latter in-
stance, the natives were perfectly in the right. At that time, the
law against the traffic in ardent spirits (every now and then
suspended and revived) happened to be in force ; and finding a
large quantity on the premises of Victor, a low, knavish adven-
turer from Marseilles, the Tahitians pronounced it forfeit.

For these, and similar alleged outrages, a large pecuniary
restitution . was demanded (^10,000), which there being no
exchequer to supply, the island was forthwith seized, under
cover of a mock treaty, dictated to the chiefs on the gun-deck
of Du Petit Thouar's frigate. But, notwithstanding this for-
suility, there now seems little doubt that the downfall of the
Pomarees was decided upon at the Tuilleries.

After establishing the Protectorate, so called, the rear-
admiral sailed ; leaving M. Bruat governor, assisted by Beine
and Carpegne, civilians, named members of the council of
government, and Merenhout, the consul, now made com-
missioner royal. No soldiers, however, were landed, until
several months afterward. As men, Heine and Carpegne were
not disliked by the natives ; but Bruat and Merenhout they
latterly detested. In several interviews with the poor queen,
the unfeeling governor sought to terrify her into compliance
with his demands ; clapping his hand upon his sword, shaking
his fist in her face, and swearing violently. " Oh, king of a
great nation," said Pomaree, in her letter to Louis Philippe,
^ fetch away this man ; I and my people cannot endure his
evil doings. He is a shameless man."

Although the excitement among the natives did not wholly
subside upon the rear-admiral's departure, no overt act of
yiolence immediately followed. The queen VksA. ^e)\ \» \Das«Si %

»6 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [c«ap.

and the dissensions among the chiefs, together with iheiU-
advised conduct of the missionaries, prevented a union upon
some common plan of resistance. But the great body of tlie
people, as well as their queen, confidently relied upon fb»
speedy interposition of England — a nation bound to them liy
many ties, and which, more than once, had solemnly gmraBteed
their independence.

As for the missionaries, they op^ily defied the Frendi
governor, childishly predicting fleets and armies from Britam.
Bat what is the welfare of a spot like Tahiti, to the miglitf
interests of France and England ? There was a renKmstraim
on one side, and a reply on the other ; and there the matter
rested. For once in thdr brawling lives, St. Greorge «&d St
i>enis were hand and glove ; and they were not going to crois
sabres about Tahiti.

During my stay upon the i^dand, so far as I could see, there
was little to denote that any change had taken place intbe i
government. Such laws as they had were administered the
same as ever; the missionaries went about unmolested^ and
comparative tranquillity everywhere prevailed. NeTertlieles8y
I sometimes heard the natives inveighing against the Frendi
(no favourites, by the by, throughout Polynesia), snd bitterly
r^retting tha;t the queen had not, at the outset, made a stand.

In the house of the chief Adea, frequent discussions took
place, concerning the ability of the island to cope with tiie
French : the number of fighting men and muskets among the
natives were talked of, as well as the propriety of fortifying
several heights overlooking Papeetee. Imputing these symp-
toms to the mere resentment of a recent outrage, and not to
any determined spirit of resistance, I little anticipated the
gallant, though useless warfare, so soon to follow my d^Murture.

At a period subsequent to my first visit, the island, which
before was divided into nineteen districts, with a native chief
over each, in capacity of governor and judge, was, by Bruat»
divided into four. Over these he s^t as many recreant chiefe,
Kitoti, Tati, Utamai, and Paraita ; to whom he paid <^1000 eaeh,
to s^ure their assistance in carrying out his evil designs.

The first blood shed, in any regular conflict, was at Mahanar,
upoD the peninsula of TaTai\>oo. T\x^ ^^\iQit\%YCA.\»lmthe

iciAP. noLBL] THE FRENCH AT TAHITL 187

sekiire of a nwaber of women from the shore, by men belong-
n^ to one of the Flinch vessels of war. In this affair, tbe
kbrndere loaght dei^erately, killing about fiftj of tbe eneoay,
md ioong niaetj of their own numba*. The French saHors
imL mariBM^ who, at jthe time, were reported to be infuriated
wish liquor, gare no quarter; and the survivors only saved
tiiemgeives by fleeing to the mountains* Subsequently, the
iittttles of Hararparpi and Fararar were fought, in which the
ifivadMB net with indifferent socoess.

Shortly after the engagement at Hararparpi, three Frenoh*
an w«re w«ylaid in a pass of the valleys, and murdered by
the ineenaed natives. One was Lefevre, a notorious scoundrel,
ttd a BpYy whom Bruat had sent to conduct a certain Migi^
Ftt^s (said to be a Pole), to tt» hiding-place of £our dii^
wbom the governor wished to eeize and execute. This cir*
eamstance violently inflamed the hostility <^ both parties.

Abont this time, Kitoti, a depraved chief, and the pHasit
tool of Bruat, was induced by him to give a great feast in the
Vale of Paree, to which all his countrymen were invited.
The governor's object was to gain over all he could to his
interests ; he supplied an abundance of wine and brandy, and
a scene of bestial intoxication was the natural consequence.
Before it came to this, however, several speeches were made
by the islanders. One of these, delivered by an aged warrior,
who had formerly been at the head of the celebrated Aeorai
Society, was characteristic. " This is a very good feast," said
the reeling old man, " and the wine also is very good ; but you
evil-minded Wee-Wees (French), and you false-hearted men
of Tahiti, are all very bad."

By the latest accounts, most of the islanders still refuse to
submit to the French ; and what turn events may hereafter
take it is hard to predict. At any rate, these disorders must
accelerate the final extinction of their race.

Along with the few officers left by Du Petit Thouars, were
several French priests, for Avhose unobstructed exertions in
the dissemination of their faith, the strongest guarantees were
provided by an article of the treaty. But no one was bound
to offer them facilities, much less a luncheon, the first day
they went ashore. True, they had plenty ot ^'^^s'VswX.Vft'^^^

128 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, [cha:

natives it was anathema — taboo — and, for several hoi
some odd minutes, thej vrould not touch it. Emissaries
Pope and the devil, as the strangers were consideFe<
smell of sulphur hardly yet shaken out of their canon
what islander would venture to jeopardise his soul, i
down a blight upon his bread-fruit, by holding any inte:
with them ? That morning the priests actually pickni*
a grove of cocoa-nut trees ; but, before night, Christij
pitality — in exchange for a commercial equivalent o
dollars — was given them in an adjoining house.

"Wanting in civility, as the conduct of the English n
aries may be thought, in withholding a decent recep
these persons, the latter were certainly to blame in nee
placing themselves in so unpleasant a predicament,
far better auspices, they might have settled upon sor
of the thousand unconverted isles of the Pacific, rath<
have forced themselves thus upon a people already prof
Christians.

A».zxzm.l WE RECEIVE CALL& IM

CHAPTER XXXm.
We reouTe calls at the Hotel de Calabooza.

(JB place of Confinement being open all round, and so near
e Broom Road, of course we were in plain sight of every
dj passing; and, therefore, we had no lack of visitors
long such an idle, inquisitive set as the Tahitians. For a
7 days, they were coming and going continually; while
18 ignobly fast by the foot, we were fain to give passive
lience.

[)uring this period, we were the lions of the neighbourhood ;
1, no doubt, strangers from the distant villages were taken to
the "Karhowrees" (white men), in the same way thatcountry-
D, in a city, are gallanted to the Zoological Gardens,
yi this gave us a fine opportunity of making observations,
vas painfully struck by the considerable number of sickly or
ormed persons ; undoubtedly made so by a virulent com-
int, which, under native treatment, almost invariably affects,
the end, the muscles and bones of the body. In particular,
re is a distortion of the back, most unsightly to behold,
rinating in a horrible form of the malady,
y though this, and other bodily afflictions, were unknown be-
3 the discovery of the islands by the whites, there are several
es found of the Fa-Fa, or Elephantiasis — a native disease,
ich seems to have prevailed among them from the earliest
iquity. Affecting the legs and feet alone, it swells them, in
le instances, to the girth of a man's body, covering the skin
h scales. It might be supposed, that one thus afflicted
uld be incapable of walking ; but, to all appearance, they
m to be nearly as active as any body ; apparently suffering
pain, and bearing the calamity with a degree of cheerfulness
ly marvellous.
The Fa-Fa ia very gradual in its apptoac^\i<&&) wA -^^'wc^

130 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. xxxm.

elapse before the limb is full sw^dllen. Its origin is ascribed
by the natives to various causes : but the general impression
seems to be, that it arises in most cases from the eating of un-
ripe bread-fruit and Indian turnip. So far as I could find out,
it is not hereditary. In no stage do they attempt a cure ; the
complaint being held incurable.

Speaking of the Fa-Fa, reminds me of a poor fellow, a sailor,
whom I afterward saw at Roorootoo, a lone island, some two
days' sail from Tahiti.

The island is very small, and its inhabitants nearly extinct.
We sent a boat off to see whether any yams were to be had, as
formerly, the yams of Roorootoo were as famous among the
islands round about as Sicily oranges in the Mediterranean.
Going ashore, to my surprise, I was accosted, near a little
6hanty of a church, by a white man, who limped forth from a
wretched hut. His hair and beard were unshorn, his fece
deadly pale and haggard, and one limb swelled with the Fa-Fa
to an incredible bigness. This was the first instance of a
foreigner suffering, from it that I had ever seen or heard of;
and the spectacle shocked me accordingly.

He had been there for years. From the first symptoms,
he could not believe his complaint to be what it really was,
and trusted it would soon disappear. But when it became
plain that his only chance for recovery was a speedy change
of climate, no ship would receive him as a sailor : to think of
being taken as a passenger, was idle. This speaks little for the
humanity of sea captains ; but the truth is, that those in the
Pacific have little enough of the virtue ; and, now-a-days, when
so many charitable appeals are made to them, they have be-
come callous.

I pitied the poor fellow from the bottom of my heart ; but
nothing could I do, as our captain was inexorable. " Why,**
said he, " here we are — started on a six months' cruise — I can't
put back ; and he is better off on the island than at sea. So
on Roorootoo he must die." And probably he did.

I afterward heard of this melancholy object, from two sea-
men. His attempts to leave were still unavailing, and his hard
fate was fast closing in.
Notwithstsinding the physical de^etiftT^icsY cii ^^ TiSm^^uiA

CHIP, xxxm.] WE RECEIVE CALLS. 131

as a people, among the cheifs, individuals of personable figures
are still frequently met with ; and, occasionally, majestic-look*
ing men, and diminutive women as lovely as the nymphs who,
Nearly a century ago, swam round the ships of Wallis. In
these instances, Tahitian beauty is quite as seducing as it
proved to the crew of the Bounty; the young girls being just
such creatures as a poet would picture in the tropics — soft,
plump, and dreamy-eyed.

The natural complexion of both sexes is quite light; but the
males appear much darker, from their exposure to the surf.
A dark complexion, however, in a man, is highly esteemed, as
Hidicating strength of both body and soul. Hence there is a
saying, of great antiquity among them,

•* If dark the cheek of the mother,
The son Trill sound the war-conch ;
If strong her frame, he will give laws."

With this idea of manliness, no wonder the Tahitians regard
ill pale and tepid-looking Europeans as weak and feminine^
vhereas a sailor, with a cheek like the breast of a roast turkey,
s held a lad of brawn : to use their own phrase, a " taata tona>''
nr man of bones.

Speaking of bones, recalls an ugly custom of theirs, now ob-
olete — that of making fish-hooks and gimblets out of those of
beir enemies. This beats the Scandinavians turning people's
knlls into cups and saucers.

But to return to the Calabooza Beretanee* Immense was the
iterest we excited among the throngs that called there ; they
rould stand talking about us by the hour, growing most unneces-
arily excited too, and dancing up and down with all the vivacity
f their race. They invariably sided with us ; flying out against
he consul, and denouncing him as " Ita maitai nuee," or very
ad exceedingly. They must have borne him some grudge or
ther.

Nor were the women, sweet souls, at all backward in visiting,
ndeed, they manifested even more interest than the men;
azing at us with eyes full of a thousand meanings, and con-
ersing with marvellous rapidity. But, alas ! inquisitive though
bey were, and, doubtless, taking some pasamg eotw^^i^^wcL ^tsl

132 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, xxxra.

US, there was little real feeling in them after all, and still less
sentimental sympathy. Many of them laughed outright at us,
noting only what was ridiculous in our plight.

I think it was the second day of our confinement, that a wild,
beautiful girl burst into the Calabooza, and, throwing herself iato
an arch attitude, stood afar off, and gazed at us. She was a
heartless one : — tickled to death with Black Dan's nursing his
chafed ankle, and indulging in certain moral reflections on the
consul and Captain Guy. After laughing her fill at him, she
Condescended to notice the rest ; glancing from one to another,
in the most methodical and provoking manner imaginable.
Whenever any thing struck her comically, you saw it like a
flash — her finger levelled instantaneously, and, flinging herself
back, she gave loose to strange, hollow little notes of laughter,
that sounded like the bass of a music-box, playing a lively air
with the lid down.

Now, I knew not that there was any thing in my own ap-
pearance calculated to disarm ridicule; and, indeed, to have
looked at all heroic, under the circumstances, would have been
rather difiicult. Still, I could not but feel exceedingly annoyed
at the prospect of being screamed at in turn, by this mischievous
young witch, even though she were but an islander. And, to
tell a secret, her beauty had something to do with this sort of
feeling ; and, pinioned as I was, to a log, and clad most unbe-
comingly, I began to grow sentimental.

Ere her glance fell upon me, I had, unconsciously, thrown
myself into the most graceful attitude I could assume, leaned
my head upon my hand, and summoned up as abstracted an ex-
pression as possible. Though my face was averted, I soon felt
it flush, and knew that the glance was on me : deeper and deeper
grew the flush, and not a sound of laughter.

Delicious thought! she was moved at the sight of me. I
could stand it no longer, but started up. Lo! there she was;
her great hazel eyes rounding and rounding in her head, like
two stars, her whole frame in a merry quiver, and an expression
about the mouth that was sudden and violent death to any thing
like sentiment.

The next moment she spun round, and, bursting from peal
to peal of laughter, went racing oxxt o^ >i)afe Q<^W)za ; and, in
mercy to me, never returned.

GBAP. xxxiy.] LIFE AT THE CALABOOZA. |8#

CHAPTER XXXIV.
Life at the Calabooza,

A PEW days passed ; and, at last, our docility was rewarded by
some indulgence on the part of Captain Bob.

He allowed the whole party to be at large during the day ;
only enjoining upon us always to keep within hail. This, to be
sure, was in positive disobedience to Wilson's orders ; and so^
care had to be taken that he should not hear of it. There was
little fear of the natives telling him ; but strangers travelling
the Broom Road might. By way of precaution, boys were sta«
tioned as scouts along the road. At sight of a white man, they
sounded the alarm ; when we all made for our respective holes
(the stocks being purposely left open) : the beam then descended,
and we were prisoners. As soon as the traveller was out of
sight, of course we were liberated.

Notwithstanding the regular supply of food which we ob-
tained from Captain Bob and his friends, it was so small, that
we often felt most intolerably hungry. We could not blame
them for not bringing us more, for we soon became aw^are that
they had to pinch themselves, in order to give us what they
did ; beside, they received nothing for their kindness but the
daily bucket of bread.

Among a people like the Tahitians, what we call " hard
times " can only be experienced in a scarcity of edibles ; yet^ bo
destitute are many of the common people, that this most dis-
tressing consequence of civilisation may be said, with them, to
be ever present. To be sure, the natives about the Calabooza,
had abundance of limes and oranges ; but what were these good
for, except to impart a still keener edge to appetites which ther6
was so little else to gratify ? During the height of the bread-
fruit season, they fare better ; but, at otliet tm<^ \Ja!^ ^^^^coas^^
of the shipping exhaust the uncultivated xeaovxtiie&Qi ^<^\S«sw^N

K 3

134 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, xxxiy.

and the lands being mostly owned by the chiefs, the inferior
orders have to suffer for their cupidity. Deprived of their nets,
many of them would starve.

As Captain Bob insensibly remitted his watchfulness, and we
began to stroll farther and farther from the Calabooza, we
managed by a systematic foraging upon the country round about,
to make up for some of our deficiencies. And fortunate it was,
that the houses of the wealthier natives were just as open to us
as those of the most destitute : we were treated as kindly in one
SIS the other.

Once in a while, we came in at the death of a chief 's pig ; the
noise of whose slaughtering was generally to be heard at a great
distance. An occasion like this gathers the neighbours together,
and they have a bit of a feast, where a stranger is always wel-
come. A good loud squeal, therefore, was music in our ears. It
showed something going on in that direction.

Breaking in upon the party tumultuously, as we did, we always
created a sensation. Sometimes, we found the animal still alive
and struggling ; in which case, it was generally dropped at our
approach. To provide for these emergencies. Flash Jack gene-
rally repaired to the scene of operations, with a sheath knife
between his teeth, and a club in his hand. Others were exceed-
ingly officious in singeing off the bristles, and disembowelling.
Doctor Long Ghost and myself, however, never meddled with
these preliminaries, but came to the feast itself, with unimpaired
energies.

Like all lank men, my long friend had an appetite of his own.
Others occasionally went about seeking what they might devour,
but he was always on the alert.

He had an ingenious way of obviating an inconvenience
Ts^hich we all experienced at times. The islanders seldom use
§^t with their food ; so he begged Rope Yarn to bring him
some from the ship ; also a little pepper, if he could ; which,
accordingly, was done. This he placed in a small Ipather wallet
— a " monkey bag " (so called by sailors) •— usually worn as a
purse about the neck.

" In my poor opinion," said Long Ghost, as he tucked the
wallet out of sight, " it behooves a stranger in Tahiti to have
jiis knife in readiness, and hia caB\«x slvm^.''

CHAP. XXXV.] VISIT FROM AN OLD ACQUAINTANCE. 136

CHAPTER XXXV

Visit from an old Acqaaintance.

We had not been many days ashore, when Doctor Johnson was
espied coming along the Broom Road.

We had heard that he meditated a visit, and suspected what
he was after. Being upon the consuFs hands, all our expenses
were of course payable by him in his official capacity ; and,
therefore, as a friend of Wilson, and sure of good pay, the shore
doctor had some idea of allowing us to run up a bill with him.
True, it was rather awkward to ask us to take medicines, which,
on board the ship, he told us were not needed. However, he
resolved to put a bold face on the matter, and give us a call.

His approach was announced by one of the scouts, upon which
some one suggested that we should let him enter, and then put
him in the stocks. But Long Ghost proposed better sport.
What it was, we shall presently see.

Yery bland and amiable, Doctor Johnson advanced, and, rest-
ing his cane on the stocks, glanced to right and le% as we lay
before him. " Well, my lads," he began, " how do you find
yourselves, to-day ? "

Looking very demure, the men made some rejoinder ; and he
went on.

*' Those poor fellows I saw the other day — the sick, I mean
— how are they ? " and he scrutinised the company. At last, he
singled out one who was assuming a most unearthly appearance!,
and remarked, that he looked as if he were extremely ilL " Yes,''
said the sailor dolefully, " I'm afeard, doctor. 111 soon be losing
the number of my mess !" (a sea phrase, for departing this life),
and he closed his eyes, and moaned.

" What does he say ? " said Johnson, turning round eagerly.

** Why," exclaimed Flash Jack, who volunteered as inter-
preter, " he means he's going to croak " (die).

" CroaA / and what does that mean, appUed. to «i. ^^^asi&l^ *

K 4

186 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. TcHAift mv.

" Oh! I understand," said he, when the word was explained;
and he stepped over the stocks, and felt the man's pulse.

" What's his name ? " he asked, turning this time to old
Navy Bob.

" We calls him Jingling Joe," replied that worthy.

" Well then, men, you must take good care of poor Joseph j
and I will send him a powder, which must be taken according
to the directions. Some of you know how to read, I presume?"

" That ere young cove does," replied Bob, pointing toward
the place where I lay, as if he were directing attention to a sail
at sea.

After examining the rest — some of whom were really in-
valids, but convalescent, and others only pretending to be labour-
ing under divers maladies, Johnson turned round, and addressed
the party.

" Men," said he, " if any more of you are ailing, speak up, and
let me know. By order of the consul, I'm to call everyday;
so if any of you are at all sick, it's my duty to prescribe for you,
This sudden change from ship fare to shore living, plays the
deuce with you sailors ; so be cautious about eating fruit. Good
day ! Til send you the medicines the first thing in the morning."

Now, I am inclined to suspect, that with all his want of
understanding, Johnson must hdve had some idea that we were
quizzing him. Still, that was nothing, so long as it answered
his purpose ; and therefore, if he did see through us, he never
showed it.

Sure enough, at the time appointed, along came a native lad
with a small basket of cocoa-nut stalks, filled with powders, pill-
boxes, and vials, each with names and directions written in a
large, round hand. The sailors, one and all, made a snatch at
the collection, under the strange impression that some of the
Tlals were seasoned with spirits. But, asserting his privil^e as
physician, to the first reading of the labels. Doctor Long Ghost
was at last permitted to take possession of the basket.

The first thing lighted upon was a large vial, labelled —" For
William — rub well in.

This vial certainly had a spirituous smell ; and upon handing
it to the patient, he made a summary internal application of ita
contents. The doctor looked agViast^

CHAP. XXXV.] VISIT FROM AN OLD ACQUAINTANCE. 137

There was now a mighty commotion. Powders and pills were
voted mere drugs in the market, and the holders of viab were
pronounced lucky dogs. Johnson must have known enough of
Bailors to make some of his medicines palatable — this, at least,
Long Ghost suspected. Certain it was, every one took to the
vials ; if at all spicy, directions were unheeded, their contents
all going one road.

The largest one of all, quite a bottle indeed, and having a sort
of burnt brandy odour, was labelled — " For Daniel; drink freely,
and until relieved." This, Black Dan proceeded to do ; and
would have made an end of it at once, had not the bottle, after
a hard struggle, been snatched from his hands, and passed
round, like a jovial decanter. The old tar had complained of the
effects of an immoderate eating of fruit.

Upon calling the following morning, our physician found hi»
precious row of patients reclining behind the stocks, and doing
" as well as could be expected."

But the pills and powders were found to have been perfectly
inactive : probably because none had been taken. To make *
them efficacious, it was suggested that, for the future, a bottle
of Pisco should be sent along with them. According to Flash
Jack's notions, unmitigated medical compounds were but dry
stuff at the best, and needed something good to wash them
down.

Thus far, our own M.D., Doctor Long Ghost, after starting
the frolic, had taken no further part in it ; but on the physician's
third visit, he took him to one side, and had a private confabula-'
tion. What it was, exactly, we could not tell ; but from certain
illustrative signs and gestures, I fancied that he was describing
the symptoms of some mysterious disorganisation of the vitals,
which must have come on within the hour. Assisted by his
familiarity with medical terms, he seemed to produce a marked
impression. At last, Johnson went his way, promising alond
that he would send Long Ghost what he desired.

When the medicine boy came along the following morning,
the doctor was the first to accost him, walking off with a small
purple vial. This time, there was little else in the basket but a
case bottle of the burnt brandy cordial, which, after much debate,
was BnaUj- disposed of hy some one pouring t\i& (^o\i\;&Tv\j^\i\2d<^

138 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. xxxv.

by little, into the half of a cocoa-nut shell, and so giving all who
desired, a glass. No further medicinal cheer remaining, the men
dispersed.

An hour or two passed, when Flash Jack directed attention
to my long friend, who, since the medicine boy left, had not
been noticed till now. With eyes closed, he was lying behind
the stocks, and Jack was lifting his arm and letting it fall as if
life were extinct. On running up with the rest, I at once con-
nected the phenomenon with the mysterious vial. Searching
his pocket, I found it, and holding it up, it proved to be lauda-
num. Flash Jack, snatching it from my hand in a rapture,
quickly informed all present what it was ; and with much glee,
proposed a nap for the company. Some of them not compre-
hending him exactly, the apparently defunct Long Ghost — who
lay so still that I a Uttle suspected iJie genuineness of his sleep —
yr&a rolled about as an illustration of the virtues of the vial's
contents. The idea tickled every body mightily ; and throwing
themselves down, the magic draught was passed from hand to
hand. Thinking that, as a matter of course, they must at once
become insensible, each man, upon taking his sip, fell back, and
closed his eyes.

There was little fear of the result, since the narcotic was
equally distributed. But, curious to see how it would operate,
I raised myself gently after a while, and looked around. . It
was about noon, and perfectly still ; and as we all daily took
the siesta, I was not much surprised to find every one quiet
Still, in one or two instances, I thought I detected a little
peeping.

Presently, I heard a footstep, and saw Dr. Johnson ap-
proaching.

And perplexed enough did he look at the sight of his pros-
trate file of patients, plunged apparently in such unaccountable
slumbers.

^* Daniel," he cried, at last, punching in the side with his
cane, the individual thus designated — "Daniel, my good fel-
low, get up ! do you hear ?"

But Black Dan was immovable ; and he poked the next
sleeper.

*^ Joseph, Joseph 1 come, waVe \x^\ \^a m^^\>Q«i\xst ^^W«
son.''

CHAP. XXXV.] VISIT FROM AN OLD ACQUAINTANCE. 139

But Jingling Joe, with mouth open, and eyes shut, was not
to be started.

*^ Bless mj soul!" he excaimed, with uplifted hands and
cane, " what's got into 'em ? I say, men"* — he shouted, run-
ning up and down — "come to life, men! what under the
son's the matter with you?" and he struck the stocks, and
bawled with increased vigour.

At last he paused, folded his hands over the head of his cane,
and steadfastly gazed upon us. The notes of the nasal or-
chestra were rising and falling upon his ear, and a new idea
suggested itsel£

** Yes, yes ; the rascals must have been getting boozy. Well,
, it^8 none of my business — I'll be off; " and off he went

No sooner was he out of sight, than nearly all started to
their feet, and a hearty laugh ensued.

like myself, most of them had been watching the event from
binder a sly eyelid. By this time, too. Doctor Long Ghost was
ss wide awake as any body. What were his reasons for taking
kodanum, — if, indeed, he took any whatever, — is best known
to himself ; and, as it is neither mine nor the reader's business,
^e will say no more about it.

>40 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [cHAP.xxm

CHAPTER XXXVI.

We are carried before the Consul and Captain.

We had been inmates of the Calabooza Beretanee about two
weeks, when one morning, Captain Bob, coming from the
bath, in a state of utter nudity, brought into the building an
armful of old tappa, and began to dress to go out.

The operation was quite simple. The tappa — of the coarsest
kind — was in one long, heavy piece; and, fastening one end to
a column of Habiscus wood, supporting the Calabooza, he went
off a few paces, and putting the other about his waist, wound
himself right up to the post. This unique costume, in rotun-
dity something like a farthingale, added immensely to his large
bulk ; so much so, that he fairly waddled in his gait. But he
was only adhering to the fashion of his fathers ; for, in the
olden time, the " Kihee," or big girdle, was quite the mode iot
both sexes. Bob, despising recent innovations, still clung to it
He was a gentleman of the old school — one of the last of the
Kihees.

He now told us, that he had orders to take us before the
consul. Nothing loth, we formed in procession ; and, with the
old man at our head, sighing and labouring like an engine,
*and flanked by a guard of some twenty natives, we started for
the village.

Arrived at the consular office, we found Wilson there, and
four or five Europeans, seated in a row facing us; probably
with the view of presenting as judicial an appearance as pos-
sible.

On one side was a couch, where Captain Guy reclined.
He looked convalescent ; and, as we found out, intended soon
to go aboard his ship. He said nothing, but left everything
to the consul.

The latter now rose, and drawing forth a paper from a large
roll, tied with red tape, commeiwie^ i:e^^\x\^ ^Q>\x5i.

[AF. XXXVI.] THE CONSUL AND CAPTAIN. 141

It purported to be, "The affidavit of John Jennin, first
&cer of the British Colonial Barque, Julia ; Guy, Master;"
id proved to be a long statement of matters, from the time of
aving Sydney, down to our arrival in the harbour. Though
tfully drawn up, so as to bear hard against every one of us,
was pretty correct in the details *, excepting, that it was
bolly silent as to the manifold derelictions of the mate him-
If — a fact which imparted unusual significance to the con-
uding sentence, "And furthermore, this deponent sayeth
)t"

No comments were made, although we all looked round for
le mate, to see whether it was possible that he would have
ithorised this use of his name. But he was not present.
The next document produced was the deposition of the
qptain himself. As on all oldier occasions, however, he had
sry little to say for himself, and it was soon set aside.
The third affidavit was that of the seamen remaining aboard
\e vessel, including the traitor Bungs, who, it seemed, had
imed ship's evidence. It was an atrocious piece of exaggera-
on, from beginning to end; and those who signed it could
5t have known what they were about. Certainly Wymontoo
id not, though his mark was there. In vain the consul com-
onded silence during the reading of this paper ; comments
ere shouted out upon every paragraph.
The affidavits read, Wilson, who, all the while, looked as
iff as a poker, solemnly drew forth the ship's articles from
1^ tin case. This document was a discoloured, musty, bilious-
oking affidr, and hard to read. When finished, the consul
eld it up ; and, pointing to the marks of the ship's company,
t the bottom, asked us, one by one, whether we acknowledged
16. same for our own.

" What's the use of asking that?" said Black Dan ; " Cap- ^
dn Guy there knows as well as we they are."
** Silence, sir ! " said Wilson, who, intending to produce a
utable impression by this ridiculous parade, was not a little
bortified by the old sailor's bluntness.

A pause of a few moments now ensued ; during which the
ench of judges communed with Captain Guy, in a low tone,
ad the saiJora canvassed the motives of the (ioiLW3\m\v'acsYa%^<^
Edarits taken.

142 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [cHAP.mvt

The general idea seemed to be, that it was done with a view
of " bouncing," or frightening us into submission. Such proved
to be the case ; for Wilson, rising to his feet again, addressed
us as follows : —

" You see, men, that every preparation has been made to send
you to Sydney for trial. The Rosa (a small Australian schooner,
lying in the harbour) will sail for that place in the course often
days, at farthest. The Julia sails on a cruise this day week.
Do you still refuse duty ? *'

We did.

Hereupon the consul and captain exchanged glances ; and the
latter looked bitterly disappointed.

Presently I noticed Guy's eye upon me ; and, for the first
time, he spoke, and told me to come near. I stepped forward.

" Was it not you that was taken off the island ? "

'• It was."

" It is yow, then, who owe your life to my humanily. Yet this
is the gratitude of a sailor,* Mr. Wilson ! " '

" Not so, sir." And I at once gave him to understand, thst
I was perfectly acquainted with his motives in sending a boat
into the bay ; his crew was reduced, and, he merely wished to
procure the sailor whom he expected to find there. The sh^
was the means of my deliverance, and no thanks to the be-
nevolence of its captain.

Doctor Long Ghost, also, had a word to say. In two masterly
sentences he summed up Captain Guy's character, to the com*
plete satisfaction of every seaman present.

Matters were now growing serious ; especially as the saSkn
became riotous, and talked about taking the consul and the cap-
tain back to the Calabooza with them.

The other judges fidgeted, and loudly commanded silence. It
was at length restored ; when Wilson, for the last time address-
ing us, said something more about the Rosa and Sydney, and
concluded by reminding us, that a week would elapse ere the
Julia sailed.

Leaving these hints to operate for themselves, he dismissed
the party, ordering Captain Bob and his friends to escort us back
whence we came.

►. xxxvn.] FRENCH PRIESTS PAY THEIR RESPECTS. 14S

CHAPTER xxxvn.

The French Priests pay theur Respects*

A DAT or two after the events just related, we were lounging in
the Calabooza Beretanee, when we were honoured by a visit from
three of the French priests ; and as about the only notice ever
taken of us by the English missionaries, was their leaving their
cards for us in the shape of a package of tracts, we could not
help thinking, that the Frenchmen, in making a personal call,
were at least much better bred.

By this time they had settled themselves down quite near our
habitation. A pleasant little stroll down the Broom Road, and
a rustic cross peeped through the trees ; and soon you came to
as charming a place as one would wish to see : a soft knoll,
{Wanted with old bread-fruit trees ; in front, a savannah, sloping
t» a grove of palms, and, between these, glimpses of blue sunny
waves.

On the summit of the knoU was a rude chapel of bamboos ;
quite small, and surmounted by the cross. Between the canes, at
nightfall, the natives stole peeps at a small portable altar ; a
crucifix to correspond, and gilded candlesticks and censers.
Their curiosity carried them no further 5 nothing could induce
them to worship there. Such queer ideas as they entertained
of the hated strangers ! Masses and chants were nothing more
than evil spells. As for the priests themselves, they were no
better than diabolical sorcerers ; like those who, in old times,
terrified their fathers.

Close by the chapel, was a range of native houses ; rented from
a chief, and handsomely furnished. Here lived the priests;
and very comfortably too. They looked sanctimonious enough
abroad ; but that went for nothing : since at home, in their re^
treat, they were a club of Friar Tucks ; holding priestly wassail
over many a good cup of red brandy, and rising late in the
morning.

144 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, xxxm

Pity it was they couldn't marry — pity for the ladies of the
island, I mean, and the cause of morality ; for what business had
the ecclesiastical old bachelors, with such a set of trim little
native handmaidens? These damsels were their &ret converts;
and devoted ones they were.

The priests, as I said before, were accounted necromancers :
the appearance of two of our three visitors might have justified
the conceit.

They were little, dried-up Frenchmen, in long, straight gowns
of black cloth, and unsightly three-cornered hats, so prepos-
terously big, that, in putting them on, the reverend fathers
seemed extinguishing themselves.

Their companion was dressed differently. He wore a sort rf
yellow flannel morning-gown, and a broad-brimmed Manilla
hat. Large and portly, he was also hale and fifty ; with a com-
plexion like an autumnal leaf, handsome blue eyes, fine teeth,
and a racy Milesian brogue. In short, he was an Irishman;
Father Murphy by name ; and, as such, pretty well known, and
very thoroughly disliked, throughout all the Protestant mis-
sionary settlements in Polynesia. In early youth, he had been
sent to a religious seminary in France ; and, taking orders there^
had but once or twice afterward revisited his native land.

Father Murphy marched up to us briskly ; and the first words
he uttered were, to ask whether there were any of his country-
men among us. There were two of them ; one, a lad of sixteen
^- a bright, curly-headed rascal — and, being a young Irishman,
of course his name was Pat. The other was an ugly, and
rather melancholy-looking scamp ; one M*Gee, whose prospects
in life had been blasted by a premature transportation to Syd-
ney. This was the report, at least, though it might have been
scandal.

In most of my shipmates were some redeeming qualities;
but about M'Gee there was nothing of the kind ; and, forced
to consort with him, I could not help regretting, a thousand
times, that the gallows had been so tardy. As if impelled,
against her will, to send him into the world. Nature had done
all she could to ensure his being taken for what he was. About
the eyes, there was no mistaking him ; with a villanous cast in
one, they seemed suspicious o£ eac\i ot\iftic.

(ttAP. xxxvn. j FR£:N€H PRIESTS PAY THEIR RESPECTS. 145

Glancing awaj firom bim at once, the bluff priest rested his
gaze on the good-humoured face of Fat, who, with a pleasant
rogmshnes% was " twigging" the enormous hats (or " Hjtee
Beiteezers," as land beavers are called by sailors), from under
which, like a couple of snails, peeped the two little French*
men.

Pat and the priest were both from the same town in Meath ;
and, when this was found out, there was no end to the ques"
tions of the latter. To him, Pat seemed a letter from home,
and said a hundred times as much.

After a long talk between these two, and a little broken
English from the Frenchmen, our visitors took leave; but
Father Murphy had hardly gone a dozen rods, when back he
oame, inquiring whether we were in want of any thing.

" Yes," cried one, " something to eat." Upon this, he pro-
mised to send us some fresh wheat bread, of his own baking;
a great luxury in Tahiti.

We all felicitated Pat upon picking up such a friend, and
told him his fortune was made.

The next morning, a French servant of the priest's made his
appearance, with a small bundle of clothing for our young
Hibernian; and the promised bread for the party. Pat, being
out at the knees and elbows, and, like the rest of us, not full
ioside, the present was acceptable all round.

In the afternoon. Father Murphy himself came along ; and,
in addition to his previous gifts, gave Pat a good deal of
advice : said he was sorry to see him in limbo, and that he
would have a talk with the consul about having him set free.

We saw nothing more of him for two or three days ; at the
and of which time he paid us another call, telling Pat, that
Wilson was inexorable, having refused to set him at liberty,
unless to go aboard the ship. This, the priest now: besought
him to do forthwith; and to escape the punishment which, it
seems, Wilson had been hinting at to his intercessor. Pat,
however, was staunch against entreaties; and, with all the
ardour of a sophomorean sailor, protested his intention to
hold out to the last. With none of the meekness of a good
little boy about him, the blunt youngster stormed away at

Ue ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, xxxvn.

such a rate, that it was bard to pacify him ; and the priest said
no more.

How it came to pass — whether from Murphy's q)eaking to
the consul, or otherwise — we could not tell, but the next day
Pat was sent for by Wilson, and being escorted to the village
by our good old keeper, three days elapsed before he returned.

Bent upon reclaiming him, they had taken him on board the
ship; feasted him in the cabin; and, finding that of no avail,
down they thrust him into the hold, in double irons, and on
bread and water. All would not do ; and so he was sent back
to the Calabooza. Boy that he was, they must have counted
upon his being more susceptible to discipline than the rest.

The interest felt in Pat's welfare, by his benevolent country-
man, w«as very serviceable to the rest of us ; especially as we
all turned Catholics, and went to mass every morning, much to
Captain Bob s consternation. Upon finding it out, he threats
cned to keep us in the stocks, if we did not desist. He went
no farther than this, though ; and so, every few days, we
strolled down to the priest's residence, and had a mouthful
to eat, and something generous to drink. In particular. Dr.
Long Ghost and myself became huge favourites with Pafs
friend; and many a time he regaled us from a quaint-looking
travelling-case for spirits, stowed away in one comer of his
dwelling. It held four square flasks, which, somehow Or other,
always contained just enough to need emptying. In truth, the
fine old Irishman was a rosy fellow in canonicals. His coun-
tenance and his soul were always in a glow. It may be
ungenerous to reveal his failings, but he often talked thick,
and sometimes was perceptibly eccentric in his gait.

I never drink French brandy, but I pledge Father Murphy,
His health again ! And many joUy prosel3rtes may he make in
Polynesia !

CHAP, xxxvra.] LITTLE JULE SAILS WITHOUT US. 14^

CHAPTER XXXVin.

Little Jale ssdls without us.

To make good the hint thrown out by the consul upon the con-
clusion of the Farce of the Affidavits, we were again brought
before him within the time specified.

It was the same thing over again : he got nothing out of us,
and we were remanded ; our resolute behaviour annoying him
prodigiously.

What we observed, led us to form the idea, that on first
learning the state of affairs on board the Julia, Wilson must
have addressed his invalid friend, the captain, something in the
following style : —

" Guy, my poor fellow, don't worry yourself now about those
rascally sailors of yours. Pll dress them out for you — just.
leave it all to me, and set your mind at rest."

But handcuffs and stocks, big looks, threats, dark hints, and
depositions, had all gone for nought.

Conscious that, as matters now stood, nothing serious coul<}
grow out of what had happened ; and never dreaming that our
being sent home for trial had ever been really thought of^ we
thoroughly understood Wilson, and laughed at him accordingly.

Since leaving the Julia, we had caught no glimpse of the
mate ; but we often heard of him.

It seemed that he remained on board, keeping house in the
cabin for himself and Viner ;. who, going to see him according
to promise, was induced to remain a guest. These two cronies
now had fine times ; tapping the captain's quarter-casks, playing
cards on the transom, and giving balls of an evening to the
ladies ashore. In short, they cut up so many queer capers,
that the missionaries complained of them to the consul ; and
Jermin received a sharp reprimand.

This so affected him, that he drank still more, freely thaiir
before; and one a^emooUf when mellow 8A > gsv^V^^ Nf^^

L 2

14S ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, xxxmu

umbrage at a canoe full of natives^ who, on being hailed from
the deck to come aboard and show their papers, got frightened,
and paddled for the shore. Lowering a boat instantlj, he
equipped Wymontoo and the Dane with a cutlass a piece, and
seizing another himself, off they started in pursuit, the ship's
ensign flying in the boat's stern. The alarmed islanders,
beaching their canoe, with loud cries fled through the village^
the mate after them, slashing his naked weapon to right and
left. A crowd soon collected; and the ^'Kiarhawree toonee,"
or crazy stranger, was quickly taken before Wilson.

Now, it so chanced, that in a native house hard by, the cottiil
and Captain Guy were haying a quiet game at cribbage by
themselves, a decanter on the table standing sentry. Tl^ dl>-
streperous Jermin was brought in ; and finding liie two thus
pleasantly occupied, it had a soothing effect upon him ; and be
insisted upon taking a hand at the cards, and a drink of Ifao
brandy. As the consul was nearly as tipsy as himself and tke
captain dared not object for fear of giving offence, at it tiMj
went, — all three of them, — and made a night of it; the mate's
delinquencies being summarily passed over, and his capton
sent away.

An incident worth relating grew out of this freak.

There wandered about Papeetee, at this time, a shrirelled
little fright of an English woman, known among sailors as " Old
Mother Tot." From New Zealand to the Sandwich Hslanda^
she had been all over the South Seas ; keeping a rude hut of
entertainment for mariners, and supplying them with mm and
dice. Upon the missionary islands, of course, such conduct
was severely punishable ; and at various places. Mother Tof •
establishment had been shut up, and its proprietor made to
quit in the first vessel that could be hired to land her elsewhere.
But, with a perseverance invincible, wherever she went^ she
always started afresh ; and so became notorious every where.

By some wicked spell of hers, a patient, one-eyed little eobbler
followed her about, mending shoes for white men, doing the
old woman's cooking, and bearing all her abuse without grum-
bling. Strange to relate, a battered Bible was seldom out of his
aght; and whenever he had leisure, and his mistress's back was
tmned, be wbs for ever poting oves \X^ 'IX^oi^^qtis^ ^^tatjooAj

►. xxxvra.] LITTLE JULE SAILS WITHOUT U& 149

used to enrage ike old crone past belief; and oftentimes she
boxed his ears with the book, and tried to bum it. Mother
Tot and her man Josj were^ indeed, a curious pair.

But to my story.

A week oc so after our arriFal in the harbour, the old lady
had once again been hunted down, and forced for the time to
abfindon her nefarious calling. This was brought about chiefly
by Wilson, who, for some reason unknown, had contracted the
most violent hatred for her ; which, on her part, was more than
leciprocated..

-. Well, passing in the evening, where the consul and his party
were making merry, she peeped through the bamboos of the
hopse; and straightway resolved to gratify her spite.
. The night was very dark, and providing herself with a huge
ddp's lantern, .which usually swung in her hut, she waited till
iktfj came forth. This happened about midnight; Wilson
ipffring his appearance, supported by two natives, holding him
Up by the arms. These three went first ; and just as they got
under a deep shade, a bright light was thrust within an inch of
Wilsoa's nose. The old hag was kneeling before him, holding
the lantern with uplifted hands.

*' Ha, hp,I my fine counsellor" she shrieked ; "ye persecute
a: lone old body like me for selling rum — do ye ? And here ye
are, carried home drunk — Hoot ! ye villain, I scorn ye ! " And
flbe spat upon him.

' Terrified at the apparition, the poor natives — arrant be-
lievers in ghosts — dropped the trembling consul, and fled in
ail directions. After giving full vent to her rage. Mother Tot
hobbled away, and left the three revellers to stagger home the
best way they could.

The day following our last interview with Wilson, we learned
ihat Captain Guy had gone on board his vessel, for the purpose
«f shipping a new crew. There was a round bounty ofiered ;
and a heavy bag of Spanish dollars, with the Julia's articles
leady for signing, were laid on the capstan-head.

Now there was no lack of idle sailor^ ashore, mostly " Beach-
aombers^" who had formed themselves into an organised gang,
headed by one Mack, a Scotchman, whom they styled the Gomr
nodore. Bf the Jaws of the fraternity, no meiDDi\:tex ^«ia ^wi^

L s

150 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, xxxtitt

to ship on board a vessel, unless granted permission bj the rest
In this way the gang controlled the port, all discharged seamen
being forced to join them.

To Mack and his men our story was well ktiown; indeed^
they had several times called to see us ; and of course, as sailob
and congenial spirits, they were hard against Captain Guy.

Deeming the matter important, they came in a body to the
Calabooza, and wished to know whether, all things considered, i
we thought it best for any of them to join the Julia. '

Anxious to pack the ship off as soon as possible, we answered,
by all means. Some went so far as to laud the Julia to ^
skies, as the best and fastest of ships. Jermin, too, as a good
fellow and a sailor every inch, came in for his share of pr^;
and as for the captain — quiet man, he would never trouble- any
one. In short, every inducement we could think of was pre-
sented ; and Flash Jack ended by assuring the beach-comlbers
solemnly, that now we were all well and hearty, nothing but
SL regard to principle prevented us from returning on biaid
ourselves.

The result was, that a new crew was finally obtained, togeUier
with a steady New Englander for second mate, and three good
whalemen for harpooneers. In part, what was wanting for the
ship's larder was also supplied ; and as far as could be done, in
a place like Tahiti, the damages the vessel had sustained wen
repaired. As for the Mowree, the authorities refusing to let
him be put ashore, he was carried to sea in irons, down in the
hold. What eventually became of him, we never heard.

Ropey, poor, poor Ropey, who a few days previous had faUon
sick, was left ashore at the sailor hospital at Townor, a small
place upon the beach between Papeetee and Matavai. Here^
some time after, he breathed his last. No one knew his com*
plaint : he must have died of hard times. Several of us saw
him interred in the sand, and I planted a rude post to mark his
resting-place.

The cooper and the rest who had remained aboard from the
first, of course, composed part of the Julia's new crew.

To account for the conduct, all along, of the consul and
captain, in trying so hard to alter our purpose with respect to
the ship, the following statement \a «^>i\i^\.V&T^fl^\a^\A«

CHAP, xxxmi.] LITTLE JULE SAILS WITHOUT US. 161

an advance of from fifteen to twenty-five dollars demanded by
every sailor shipping at Tahiti, an additional sum for each man
80 shipped has to be paid into the hands of the government, as
t charge of the port. Beside this, the men — with here and
tliere an exception — will only ship for one cruise, thus be-
coming entitled to a discharge before the vessel reaches home ;
which, in time, creates the necessity of obtaining other men at
a similar cost. Now, the Julia's exchequer Was at low-water
mark, or, rather, it was quite empty : and to meet these ex-
peoses, a good part of what little oil there was aboard had to
be sold for a song to a merchant of Papeetee.

It was Sunday in Tahiti, and a glorious morning, when
Cftptain Bob, waddling into the Calabooza, startled us by an-
nouncing, " Ah — my boy — shippy you, harree — maky sail t *'
Li other words, the Julia was off.

The beach was quite near, and in this quarter altogether un-
inhabited ; so down we ran, and, at a cable's length, saw little
Jpje gliding past — top-gallant-sails hoisting, and a boy aloft
with one leg thrown over the yard, loosing the fore-royal. The
d^cks were all life and commotion ; the sailors on the forecastle
siliging, " Ho, cheerly men ! " as they catted the anchor ; and
the gallant Jermin, bareheaded as his wont, standing up on the
bowsprit, and issuing his orders. By the man at the helm,
gtood Captain Guy, very quiet and gentlemanly, and smoking
a cigar. Soon the ship drew near the reef, and altering her
eourse, glided out through the break, and went on her way.

Thus disappeared little Jule, about three weeks after entering
the harbour ; and nothing more have I ever heard of her.

16S ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAa [chap, zzm

CHAPTER XXXTX.

Jennin serves us a good torn. — Friendships in Polynesia.

The ship out of the way, we were quite anxious to know lAat
was going to be done with us. On l^s head. Captain M
could tell us nothing ; no further, at least, tlum that he 30
considered himself responsible for our safe-keeping. However^
he never put us to bed any more ; and we had every thing <Nff
own way.

The day after the Julia left, the old man came up to us ia
great tribulation, saying that the bucket of bread was no loiger
forthcoming, and that Wilson had refused to send any thinf ii
its place. One and all, we took this for a hint to disp«zie
quietly, and go about our business. Nevertheless, we were not
to be shaken off so easily ; and taking a malicious pleasureii
annoying our old enemy, we resolved, for the present, to st^
where we were. For the part he had been acting, we leaniea
that the consul was the laughing-stock of all the foreignoi
ashore, who frequently twitted him upon his hopeful protegte
of the Calabooza Beretanee.

As we were wholly without resources, so long as we r^
mained on the island no better place than Captain Bob's oouli
be selected for an abiding-place. Beside, we heartily loved the
old gentleman, and could not think of leaving him ; so, telling
him to be quite at ease on the score of our clothing and foo^
we resolved, by extending and systematising our foraging ope-
rations, to provide for ourselves.

We were greatly assisted by a parting legacy of Jermin's.
To him we were indebted for having all our chests sent ashore,
and every thing left therein. They were placed in the custody
of a petty chief living near by, who was instructed by the
consul not to allow them to be taken away ; but we might call
and make our toilets whenever we pleased.

We went to see Mabinee, t\ie o\9Lc\i\fti\ C»«^\.^Ti^b ^iog

m^. xxxn.] CHE8T& ^FRIENDSHIPS IN POLYNESIA. 153

along, and stoutlj insisting upon having the chattels delivered
np. At last this was done ; and in solemn procession the chests
"were borne by the natives to the Calabooza. Here, we dis-
posed them about quite tastefuUj, and made such a figure, that
in the eyes of old Bob and his iHends, the Calabooza Beretanee
was bj far the most sumptuously furnished saloon in Tahiti.

Indeed, so long as it remained thus furnished, the native
ooorts of the district were held there ; the judge, Mahinee, and
Idi (associates, sitting upon one of the chests, and the culprits
aad. spectators thrown at full length upon the ground, both
inside of the building, and under the shade of the trees without ;
while, leaning over the stocks as from a gallerj, the worshipful
oew of the Julia looked on, and canvassed the proceedings.

I should have mentioned before, that previous to the vessel's
(kparture the men had bartered away all the clothing they could
possibly spore ; but now, it was resolved to be more provident.

T)ie contents of the chests were of the most miscellaneous
desoripticHi : — sewing utensils, marling-spikes, strips of calico,
hiti of rope, jack knives r nearly every thing, in short, that a
seaman oould think of. But of wearing apparel, there was little
hoi old frocks, remnants of jackets, and legs of trowsers, with
now and then the foot of a stocking. These, however, were
&r from being valueless; for, among the poorer Tahitians,
every thing European is highly esteemed. They come from
^ Bcuretanee, Fenooa Fararee" (Britain, Land of Wonders), and
that is enough.

The chests themselves were deemed exceedingly precious,
especially those with unfractured locks, which would absolutely
c^Jick, and enable the owner to walk off with the key. Scars,
liowever, and bruises, were considered great blemishes. One
old fellow, smitten with the doctor's large mahogany chest (a
well filled one, by the by), and finding infinite satisfaction in
merely sitting thereon, was detected in the act of applying
a heft^^"g ointment to a shocking scratch which impaired the
beauty of the lid.

There is no telling the love of a Tahitian for a sulor^s trunk.
So ornamental is it held as an article of furniture in his hut,
that the women are incessantly tormenting their husbands to
bestir themsdve^^ and make them a preaeiit. oi OTi<^ ^V<^sgl^^

154 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. Hnx.

tained, no pier table just placed in a drawing-room is regarded
with half the delight. For these reasons, then, our coming inta
possession of our estate at this time, was an important event

The islanders are much like the rest of the world ; and the
news of our good fortune brought us troops of ** tajos" or
friends, eager to form an alliance after the national custom, and
do our slightest bidding.

The really curious way in which all the Poljmesians are in
the habit of making bosom friends at the shortest possible
notice, is deserving of remark. Although, among a people like
the Tahitians, vitiated as they are by sophisticating inflncDcei^
this custom has in most cases degenerated into a mere mercenaij
relation, it nevertheless had its origin in a fine, and in some in*
stances, heroic sentiment, formerly entertained by their fathers.

In the annals of the island are examples of extravagant firiend-
ships, unsurpassed by the story of Damon and Pythias : in teutb,
much more wonderful ; for, notwithstanding the devotion — even
of life in some cases — to which they led, they were frequentlj
entertained at first sight for some stranger from another island.

Filled with love and admiration for the first whites who came
among them, the Polynesians could not testify the warmth of
their emotions more strongly, than by instantaneously making
their abrupt proffer of friendship. Hence, in old voyages we
read of chiefs coming off from the shore in their canoes, and
going through with strange antics, expressive of this desire. In
the same way, their inferiors accosted the seamen ; and thus the
practice has continued in some islands down to the present day.

There is a small place, not many days' sail from Tahiti, and
seldom visited by shipping, where the vessel touched to which
I then happened to belong.

Of course, among the simple-hearted natives, we had a friend
all round. Mine was Poky, a handsome youth, who never cotdd
do enough for me. Every morning at sunrise, his canoe came
alongside loaded with fruits of all kinds ; upon being emptied,
it was secured by a line to the bowsprit, under which it lay
all day long, ready at any time to carry its owner ashore on an
errand.

Seeing him so indefatigable, I told Poky one day, that I was a
virtuoso in shells and curiositiea of all km<da. That was enough ;

tHAT. XXXIX.] CHESTS.— FRIENDSHIPS IN POLYNESIA. 155

awaj he paddled for the head of the bay, and I never saw him
again for twenty-four hours. The next morning, his canoe
camt gliding slowly along the shore, with the full-leaved bough
of a tree for a sail. For the purpose of keeping the things dry,
he had also built a sort of platform just behind the prow, railed
in with green wicker-work ; and here was a heap of yellow
bananas and cowree shells ; young cocoa nuts and antlers of red
coral ; two or three pieces of carved wood ; a little pocket-idol,
black as jet, and rolls of printed tappa.

We were given a holyday ; and upon going ashore. Poky, of
comrse, was my companion and guide. For this, no mortal
eonld be better qualified ; his native country was not large, and
he knew every inch of it. Gallanting me about, every one was
stopped and ceremoniously introduced to Foky's **tayo kar-
bowree nuee," or his particular white friend.

He showed me all the lions ; but more than all, he took me
to see a charming lioness — a young damsel — the daughter of a
chief — the reputation of whose charms had spread to the neigh-
bouring islands, and even brought suitors therefrom. Among
these was Tooboi, the heir of Tamatoy, King of Raiatair, one
of the Society Isles. The girl was certainly fair to look upon.
Many heavens were in her sunny eyes ; and the outline of that
arm of hers, peeping forth from a capricious tappa robe, was
the very curve of beauty.

Though there was no end to Foky's attentions, not a syllable
did he ever breathe of reward ; but sometimes he looked very
knowing. At last the day came for sailing, and with it, also,
his canoe, loaded down to the gunwale with a sea stock of fruits*
Giving him all I could spare from my chest, I went on deck to
take my place at the windlass ; for the anchor was weighing.
FAj followed, and heaved with me at the same handspike.

llie anchor was soon up, and aVay we went out of the bay
irith more than twenty shallops towing astern. At last they
left us ; but long as I could see him at all, there was Poky,
Btanding alone and motionless in the bow of his canoe.

sum OF PAST I.

us ABVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [cup. a.

PART 11.

CHAPTER XL.

We take unto ourselves Friends.

The arriyal of the chests made mj friend, the doctor, bj fiirtlie
wealthiest man of the party. So much the better for me, see-
ing that I had little or nothing myself; though from our inti-
macy, the natives courted my £a.vour almost as much as his.

Among others, Kooloo was a candidate for my friendship;
and being a comely youth, quite a buck in his way, I accepted
his overtures. By this, I escaped the importunities of the restj
for be it known, that, though little inclined to jealousy in lo?e
matters, the Tahitian will hear of no rivals in his friendship.

Kooloo, running over his qualifications. as a friend, first cf all
informed me that he was a '^ Mickonaree," thus declaring Bis
communion with the church.

The way this '^ tayo " of mine expressed his regard, was lij
assuring me over and over again that the love he bore me was
^^ nuee, nuee, nuee," or infinitesimally extensive. All over these
seas, the word ^^ nuee" is significant of quantity. Its repetitioa
is like placing ciphers at the right hand of a numeral ; the more
places you carry it out to, the greater the sum. Judge, ibeii,
of Eooloo's esteem. Nor is the allusion to the ciphers at aU
inappropriate, seeing that, in themselves, Kooloo's profei||Sii)08
turned out to be worthless. He was, alas! as sounding brass
and a tinkling cymbal ; one of those who make no music unless
the clapper be silver.

In the course of a few days, the sailors, like the doctor and

mjraelf, were cajoled out of every thin^, and our " tajos,^ all

round, began to cool off quite aenaWAy. ^ totix^ ^\\H5Qss^\ftr

CHAP. XI.] WE TAKE rNTO OURSELVES FRIENDS. isr

come in their attentions, that we could no longer rely upon their
bringing us the daily supply of food, which all of them had
faithfully promised.

As for Kooloo, after sponging me well, he one morning played
the part of a retrograde lover ; informing me that his affections
had undergone a change ; he had fallen in love at first sight
with a smart sailor, who had just stepped ashore quite flush
from a lucky whaling-cruise.

It was a touching interview, and with it our connection dis-
Bolved. But the sadness which ensued would soon have been
dissipated, had not my sensibilities been wounded by his indeli-
cately sporting some of my gifts very soon after this transfer of
bis affections. Hardly a day passed, that I did not meet him on
the Broom Road, airing himself in a B^atta shirt, which I had
given him in happier hours.

He went by with such an easy saunter too, looking me
pleasanttf in the eye, and merely exchanging the cold salute of
the road : — ^ Yar onor, boyoee," a mere side-walk how d ye do.
After several experiences like this, I began to entertain a sort of
rasiiect for Kooloo, as quite a man of the workU In good sooth,
he turned out to be one ; in one week's time giving me the cut
direct^ and lounging by without even nodding. He must have
taken me for part of the landscape.

Before the chests were quite empty, we had a grand washing
in the stream of our best raiment, for the purpose of looking
tidy, and visiting the European chapd in the village. Every
gmidaj morning it is open for divine service, some member of
the mission officiating. This was the first time we ever entered
Eqieetee unattended by an escort.

In the chapel there were about forty people present, including
the ofiicers of seteral ships in harbour. It was an energetic
discoume, and the pulpit-cushion was well pounded. Occupying
a hijgh seat in the synagogue, and stiff as a fiag-staff, was our
bd6ved ^ardian, Wilson. I shall never forget his look of won*
der w)hen his interesting wards filed in at the doorway, and took
up a seat directly facing him.

Service over, we waited outside in hopes of seeing more of
him ; but, sorely annoyed at the sight of us, he reconnoitred
from the window, and -never came fort\i \u)i^"?i% \^^ %\McNft^

15S ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, [chap.xu.

CHAPTER XLL

We levy Contributions on the Shipping.

Scarcely a week went by after the Julia's sailing, when, with
the proverbial restlessness of sailors, some of the men began
to grow weary of the Calabooza Beretanee, and resolved to ga
boldly among the vessels in the bay, and offer to ship.

The thing was tried ; but though strongly recommended by
the conmiodore of the beach-combers, in the end they were in-
variably told by the captains to whom they applied, that they
bore an equivocal character ashore, and would not answer. So
often were they repulsed, that we pretty nearly gave up all
thoughts of leaving the island in this way ; and growing domestic
again, settled down quietly at Captain Bob's.

It was about this time that the whaling ships, which have
their regular seasons for cruising, began to arrive at Papeetee;
and of course their crews frequently visited us. This is cus-
tomary all over the Pacific. No sailor steps ashore, but he
straightway goes to the '* Calabooza," where he is almost sure to
find some poor fellow or other in confinement for desertion, or
alleged mutiny, or something of that sort. Sympathy is prof-
fered, and, if need be, tobacco. The latter, however, is most in
request ; as a solace to the captive, it is invaluable.

Having fairly carried the day against both consul and captaiify
we were objects of even more than ordinary interest to these
philanthropists ; and they always cordially applauded our con-
duct. Besides, they invariably brought along something in the
way of refreshments ; occasionally smuggling in a little Fisca.
Upon one occasion, when there was quite a number present, a
calabash was passed round, and a pecuniary collection taken up
for our benefit.

One day a new comer proposed, that two or three of us ahoald
paj him a sly nocturnal visit aboard his ship ; engaging to send
U8 away we& freighted mt\i ^^roNmoa^ T\a&^%& witaM

• CHIP. Hi] WE LEVY CONTRIBUTIONS ON SHIPPING. 15d

idea ; nor were we at all backward in acting upon it. Night
after night every vessel in the harbour was visited in rotation,
the foragers borrowing Captain Bob's canoe for the purpose. As
we dl took turns at this, two hy two, in due course it came
to Long Ghost and myself, for the sailors invariably linked us
together. In such an enterprise, I somewhat distrusted the
doctor, for he was no sailor, and very tall ; and a canoe is the
most ticklish of navigably things. However, it could not be
helped ; and so we went.

But a word about the canoes, before we go any further.
Among the Society Islands, the art of building them, like all
native accomplishments, has greatly deteriorated ; and they are
now the most inelegant, as well as the most insecure, of any in
the South Seas. In Cook's- time, according to his account, there
was at Tahiti, a royal fleet of seventeen hundred and twenty
large war-canoes, handsomely carved, and otherwise adorned.
At present, those used are quite small ; nothing more than
logs hollowed out, sharpened at one end, and then launched into
the water.

1^0 obviate a certain rolling propensity, the Tahitians, like
all Polynesians, attach to them what sailors call an " outrigger."
It consists of a pole floating alongside, parallel to the canoe, and
ocmnected with it by a couple of cross sticks, a yard or more in
length. Thus equipped, the canoe cannot be overturned, unless
you overcome the buoyancy of the pole, or lift it entirely out of
the water.

. Now, Captain Bob's " gig " was exceedingly small ; so small,
and of such a grotesque shape, that the sailors christened it the
Pill Box ; and by this appellation it always went. In fact, it
was a sort of " sulky," meant for a solitary paddler, but, on an
emergency, capable of floating two or three. The outrigger
was A mere switch, alternately rising in air, and then depressed •
in the water.

Aasoming the command of the expedition, upon the strength
of my being a sailor, I packed the Long Doctor with a paddle
in the bow, and then shoving off, leaped into the stem ; thus
leaving him to do all the work, and reserving to myself the
dignified sinecure of steering. All would have gone well, were
it not that my paddler made such clumsy -woiW^ liV^eX \Xi'^>N^^«3t

160 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, [chap.xu.

spattered, and showered doym upon us without ceasing. Coih
tinuing to ply his tool, however, quite energetically, I thought he
would improve after a while, and so let him alone. Bat hjaafl
by, getting wet through with this little storm we were ndsiog;
and seeing no signs of its clearing off, I conjured him, inMerc/s
name, to stop short, and let me wring myself out. Upon tUs,
he suddenly turned round, when the canoe gave a roll, the ont-
rigger flew overhead, and the next* moment came rap on the
doctor's skull, and we were both in the water.

Fortunately, we were just over a ledge of coral, not half »
fathom imder the surface. Depressing one end of the filled
canoe, and letting go of it quickly, it bounced up, and discharged
great part of its contents ; so that we easily baled out the
remainder, and again embarked. This time, my comrade coiled
himself away in a very small space ; and enjoining upon him
not to draw a single unnecessary breath, I proceeded to urge
the canoe along by myself. I was astonished at his docilitj,
never speaking a word, and stirring neither hand nor foot ; hot
the secret was, he was unable to swim, and in case we met with
a second mishap, there were no more ledges beneath to stand
upon. " Browning's but a shabby way of going out of the
world," he exclaimed, upon my rallying him ; " and Vm, aofc
going to be guilty of it.**

At last, the ship was at hand, and we approached with mn^
caution, wishing to avoid being hailed by any one from the
quarter-deck. Dropping silently under her bows, we heard*
low whistle — the signal agreed upon — and presently a goodly
sized bag was lowered over to us.

We cut the line, and then paddled away as fast as we could,
and made the best of our way home. Here we found the reft
waiting impatiently.

The bag turned out. to be well filled with sweet potatoes
boiled, cubes of salt beef and pork, and a famous sailors' pn^
ding, what they call *' duff," made of flour and water, and of
about the consistence of an underdone brick. With these d0-
licades, and keen appetites, we went out into the moonlighti
and had a nocturnal picknick.

JOUF.TLBU^ MOTOO-OTOO.— A TAHITIAN CASUIST. 161

.-A

CHAPTER XLII. ; ;

Motoo-Otoo. A Tahitian Casaist.

;¥

Thc Pill-Box was sometimes employed for other purposes
thin that described in the last chapter. AVe sometimes went
&*pleasuring in it.

Right in the middle of Papectec harbour is a bright green
island, one circular grove of waving palms, and scarcely a
lumdred yards across. It is of coral formation ; and all round,
fir many rods out, the bay is so shallow, that you might wade
anywhere. Down in these waters, as transpai-ent as air, you
iee ooral plants of every hue and shape imaginable : — antlers,
tofts of azure, wa\'ing reeds like stalks of grain, and pale green
bods and mosses. In some places, you look tlirough prickly
Inttnches down to a snow-white floor of sand, sprouting with
•tinty bulbs ; and crawling among these are strange shapes : —
8Mne bristling with spikes, others clad in shining coats of mail,
tad here and tliere round forms aU spangled with eyes.

The island is called Motoo-Otoo ; and around Motoo-Otoo
ktre I often paddled of a white moonlight night, pausing now
ttd then to admire the marine gardens beneath.

The place is the private property of the queen, who has a
Ksidence there — a melancholy-looking range of bamboo hou&es
"^neglected aiid falling to decay among the trees.

Commanding the harbour as it does, her majesty has done
aU she could to make a fortress of the island. The margin
bas been raised and levelled, and built up with a low parapet
<jf hewn blocks ot' coraL Beliind the parapet, are i*anged at
wide intervals a number of rusty old cannon, of all fashion.'^
and calibres. They are mounted upon lame, decrepit-louking
carriages, ready to sink under tlie useless burden of bearing
. tkem up. Indee<l, two or three have given up the ghost al-
together, and the pir-ces they sustained lie \ia\3L-\j\miA -aLSivyci*^
the/r bleaching Lone.-. .Screral of tbe camvoTi «kt« >y^sA>

162 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, [chap.xld.

probably with a view of making them more formidable; as
they certainly must be to any one undertaking to fire them off.

Presented to Pomaree at various times by captains of British
armed ships, these poor old " dogs of war," thus toothless and
turned out to die, formerly bayed in full pack, as the battle
hounds of Old England.

There was something about Motoo-Otoo that struck my fancy;
and I registered a vow to plant my foot upon its soil, notwith-
standing an old bareheaded sentry menaced me in the moonlight
with an unsightly musket. As my canoe drew scarcely three
inches of water, I could paddle close up to the parapet without
grounding; but every time I came near, the old man ran
towards me, pushing his piece forward, but never clapping it to
his shoulder. Thinking he only meant to frighten me, I at last
dashed the canoe right up to the wall, purposing a leap. It was
the rashest act of my life ; for never did cocoa-nut come nearer
getting demolished than mine did then. With the stock of his
gun, the old warder fetched a tremendous blow, which I ma-
naged to dodge ; and then, falling back, succeeded in paddling
out of harm's reach.

He must have been dumb; for never a word did he utter;
but, grinning from ear to ear, and with his white cotton robe
streaming in the moonlight, he looked more like the spook
of the island than any thing mortal.

I tried to effect my object by attacking him in the rear—
but he was all front ; running about the place as I paddled,
and presenting his confounded musket wherever I went. At
last I was obliged to retreat ; and to tliis day my vow remains
unfulfilled.

It was a few days after my repulse from before the walls
of Motoo-Otoo, that I heard a curious case of casuistry argued
between one of the most clever and intelligent natives I ever
•saw in Tahiti, a man by the name of Arheetoo, and our learned
Theban of a doctor.

It was this : — whether it was right and lawful for any one

being a native to keep the European Sabbath, in preference to

the day set apart as such by the missionaries, and so considered

bjr the islanders in general.

It mast be knovv^n that tlie missionamS) o^ >i)si^^<;s^\€s!M^'^>Qff^

'O'

CHAP, xui.] MOTOO-OTOO.— A TAHITI AN CASUIST. 163

who more than half a century ago established the Tahitian
reckoning, came hither by the way of the Cape of Good Hope >
and, by thus sailing to the eastward, lost one precious day
of their lives all round, getting about that much in advance
of Greenwich time. For this reason, vessels coming round-
Cape Horn — as they most all do now-a-days — find it Sunday
in Tahiti, when, according to their own view of the matter, it
ought to be Saturday. But as it won't do to alter the log, the
sailors keep their Sabbath, and the islanders theirs.
This confusion perplexes the poor natives mightily; and it is
I to no purpose that you endeavour to explain so incomprehensible
i a phenomenon. I once saw a worthy old missionary essay to
shed some light on the subject ; and though I imderstood but
few of the words employed, I could easily get at the meaning.
of his illustrations. They were something like the following : —
I " Here," says he, " you see tliis circle " (describing a large
one on the ground with a stick) : " very good ; now you see
this spot here ** (marking a point in the perimeter) : " well ;
this is Beretanee " (England), " and I*m going to sail round to
Tahiti. Here I go, then" (following the circle round), "and there
goes the sun " (snatching up another stick, and commissioning a
handy-legged native to travel round with it in a contrary direc-
tion). " Now then, we are both off, and both going away from
each other; and here you see I have arrived at Tahiti " (makin<»
« sadden stop) ; " and look now, where Bandy Legs is ! "

But the crowd strenuously maintained, that Bandy Legs
ought to be somewhere above them in the atmosphere ; for it
Was a traditionary fact, that the people from the Duff came
ashore when the sun was high over head. And here the old
gentleman, being a very good sort of man, doubtless, but no
astronomer, was obliged to give up.

Arheetoo, the casuist alluded to, though a member of the
church, and extremely conscientious about what Sabbath he
kept, was more liberal in other matters. Learning that I was
something of a "mickonaree" (in this sense, a man able to
read, and cunning in the use of the pen), he desired the slight
favour of my forging for him a set of papers; for which, he
said, he would be much obliged, and give me tv. %qq^ ^TiWKt
ofrosLstpig and Indian turnip in the bargaVn.

M 2

164 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. xm.

Now, Arheetoo was one of those who board the shipping
for their washing; and the competition being very great (the
proudest chiefs not disdaining to s(^it custom in person,
though the work is done by their dependents), he had decided
npon a course suggested by a knowing sailor, a friend of his.
He wished to have manufactured a set of certificates, purport-
ing to come from certain man-of-war and merchant captains,
known to have visited the island ; recommending him as one
of the best getters up of fine linen in all Polynesia.

At this time, Arheetoo had known me but two hours ; and,
as he made the proposition very coolly, I thought it rather
presumptuous, and told him so. But as it was quite impossible
to convey a hint, that there was a slight impropriety in the
thing, I did not resent the insult, but simply declined.

HAP. zun.] ONE 18 JUDGED BT HIS COMPAIHY. 165

CHAPTER XLm.

One u judged by the Compttiy he keepe.

iLTHOueH, &om its novelty, life at Captain Bob's was pleasant
nough for the time, there were some few annoyances con-
nected with it, any thing but agreeable to a '^ soul of sensibOitj.'^

Prejudiced against us by the malevolent representations of
he consul and others, many worthy foreigners ashcMre regarded
IS as a set of lawless vagabonds; though, truth to speak, better
»ehaved sailors never stepped on the island, nor any who gave
ess trouble to the natives. But, for all this, whenever we
aet a respectably dressed European, ten to one he shunned us,
>y going over to the other side of the road. This was very
npleasant, at least to myself; though, certes, it did not f^ej
pon the minds of the others.

To give an instance.

Of a fine evening in Tahiti — but they are all fine eveniiigs
here — you may see a bevy of silk bonnets and parasols
massing aloug Hie Broom Eoad: perhaps a band of pale, little
irhite urchins — sickly exotics — and, oftener stiD, sedate, elderly
:entlemen, with canes ; at whose ^peai*ance the natives, here
nd there, slink into their huts. These are the missionaries,
heir wives, and children, taking a family airing. Sometimes,
y the by, they take horse, and ride down to Point Venus and
ack ; a distance of several miles. At this place is settled the
nly survivor of the first missionaries that landed — an old,
rhite-headed, saint-like man, by the name of Wilson, the father
f our friend the consul

The little parties on foot were frequently encountered ; and,
Bcalling, as they did, so many pleasant recollections of home
nd the ladies, I really longed for a dress-coat and beaver, that

might step up and pay my respects. But, situated as I was,
bis was out of the question. On one occmoxv^ Vorw^^^^x,^

SI 3

166 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. xun.

received a kind inquisitive glance from a matron in gingbam.
Sweet lady ! I have not forgotten her : her gown was a plaid.

But a glance, like hers, was not always bestowed.

One evening, passing the verandah of a missionary's dwell-
ing, the dame, his wife, and a pretty blond young girl, with
ringlets, were sitting there, enjoying the sea-breeze, then
coming in, all cool and refreshing, from the spray of the reef.
As I approached, the old lady peered hard at me; and her
very cap seemed to convey a prim rebuke. The blue, English
eyes, by her side, were also bent on me. But, oh Heavens!
what a glance to receive, from such a beautiful creature ! As
for the mob cap, not a fig did I care for it; but, to be taken for
any thing but a cavalier, by the ringletted one, was absolutely
unendurable.

I resolved on a courteous salute, to show my good breeding,
if nothing more. But happening to wear a sort of turban —
hereafter to be particularly alluded to — there was no taking it
off and putting it on again with any thing like dignity. At
any rate, then, here goes a bow. But another difficulty pre-
sented itself : my loose frock was so voluminous, that I doubted
whether any spinal curvature would be perceptible.

"Good evening, ladies," exclaimed I, at last, advancing
winningly ; " a delightful air from the sea, ladies."

Hysterics and hartshorn! who would have thought it? The
young lady screamed, and the old one came near fainting.
As for myself, I retreated, in double quick time ; and scarcely
drew breath, until safely housed in the Calabooza.

CHAP, xuv.] THE CATHEDRAL OF PAPOAR. 167

CHAPTER XLIV.

Cathedral of Papoar. The Church of the Cocoa-nuts.

On Sundays I always attended the principal native church on
the outskirts of the village of Papeetee, and not far from the
Calabooza Bereta,nee. It was esteemed the best specimen of
architecture in Tahiti.

Of late, they have built their places of worship with more
reference to durablity than formerly. At one time there were
no less than thirty-six on the island — mere barns, tied together
with thongs, which went to destruction in a very few years.

One, built many years ago in this style, was a most remark-
able structure. It was erected by Pomaree II., who, on this
occasion, showed all the zeal of a royal proselyte. The build-
ing was over seven hundred feet in length, and of a propor-
tionate width ; the vast ridge-pole was, at intervals, supported
by a row of thirty-six cylindrical trunks of the bread-fruit
tree; and, all round, the wall-plates rested on shafts of the
palm. The roof — steeply inclining to within a man's height
of the ground — was thatched with leaves, and the sides of the
edifice were open. Thus spacious was the Royal Mission
Chapel of Papoar.

At its dedication, three distinct sermons were, from different
pulpits, preached to an immense concourse gathered from all
parts of the island.

As the chapel was built by the king's command, nearly as
great a multitude was employed in its construction as swarmed
over the scaffolding of the great temple of the Jews. Much
less time, however, was expended. In less than three weeks
from planting the first post, the last tier of palmetto-leaves
drooped from the eaves, and the work was done.

Apportioned to the several chiefs and their dependents, the
labour, though immense, was greatly facilitated by every one's
bringing bis post, or his rafter, or bis poVe ^Xxxwi^'wvJCcL^^a^fSfic-

M 4

168 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [ck4p. rar.

ing, ready for instant use. The materials thus prepared being
afterwards secured together by thongs, there was literaiiy
" neither hammer, nor axe, nor any tool of iron heard in the
house while it was building*"

But the most singular circumstance connected with this
South Sea cathedral remains to be related. As well for the
beauty as the advantages of such a site, the islanders love to
dwell near the mountain streams ; and so, a considerable brook,
after descending from the hills and watering the valley, was
bridged over in three places, and swept clean through the
chapel.

Flowing waters ! what an accompaniment to the songs of the
sanctuary ; mingling with them the praises and thanksgivings
of the green solitudes inland.

But the chapel of the Polynesian Solomon has long since
been deserted. Its thousand rafters of habiscus have decayed,
and fallen to the ground ; and now the stream murmurs over
tiiem in its bed.

The present metropolitan church of Tahiti is very unlike the
one just described. It is of moderate dimensions, boarded over,
and painted white. It is furnished, also^ with blinds, but no
sashes; indeed, were it not for the rustic thatch, it would
remind one of a plain chapel at home.

The wood-work was. all done by foreign carpenters, of whom
there are always several about Papeetee.

Within, its aspect is unique, and cannot fail to interest a
stranger. The rafters overhead are bound round with fine
matting of variegated dyes ; and all along the ridge-pole, these
strappings hang pendent, in alternate bunches of tassels and
deep fringes of stained grass. The floor is composed of rude
planks. Regular aisles run between ranges of native settees,
bottomed with crossed braids of the cocoa-nut fibre, and
furnished with backs.

But the pulpit, made of a dai-k, lustrous wood, and standing
at one end, is by far the most striking object. It is preposter-
ously lofty : indeed, a capital bird's-eye view of the congregatioa
ought to be had from its summit.

Nor does the church lack a gallery, which runs round aa
three sides, and is supported \>y eoVviiaivs. o^ >^^ ^i«ft.Qiv-T3MS.AaKR..

caiAF. XMY.] THE CHURCH OF THE COCOA-NUT& 169

Its facings are here and there daubed over with a tawdry
blue ; and in other places (without the slightest regard to uni-
formity), patches of the same colour may be seen. In their
ardour to decorate the sanctuary, the c on verts must have
borrowed each a brush full of paint, and zealously daubed away
at the first surfiice that offered.

As hinted, the general impression is extremely curious.
Little light being admitted, and every thing being of a dark
edour, there is an indefinable Indian aspect of duskiness
throughout. A strange, woody smell, also — more or less per-
vading every consideral^e edifice in Polynesia — is at once
perceptible. It suggests the idea of worm-eaten idols packed
away in some old lumber-room at hand.

For the most part, the congregation attending this church is
composed of the better and wealthier orders — the chiefs and
their retainers ; in short, the rank and fashion of the island.
This class is infinitely superior in personal beauty and general
heahhfulness to the ^^ marenhoar," or conmion people ; the latter
having been more es^)osed to the worst and most debasing evils
of foreign intercourse. On Sundays, the former are invariaMy
arrayed in their finery ; and thus appear to the best advantage.
Nor are they driven to the chapel, as some of their inferiors are
to other places of worship ; on the ccmtrary, capable of main-
taining a handsome exterior, and possessing greater intelligence,
they go voluntarily.

In respect of the woodland colonnade supporting its galleries,
I called this chapel the Church of the Cocoa-nuts.

It was the first place for Christian worship in Polynesia that
I had seen ; and the impression upon entering during service
was all the stronger. Majestic-looking chiefs, whose fathers
had hurled the battle-dub, and old men who had seen sacrifices
si&oking upon the altars of Oro, were there. And hark!
Iianging from the bough of a bread-fruit tree without, a bell is
being struck with a bar of iron by a native lad. In the same
spot, the blast of the war-conch had often resounded. But to
the proceedings within.

The place is well filled. Every where meet the eye the gay
calico draperies worn on great occasions by the hi^beic cAs^^jei^^
and forming a strange contrast of pa/t^^erufi «Si<i f!)c^<;yQX!^« Asl

170 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. xuv.

some instances, these are so fashioned as to resemble as much
as possible European garments. This is in excessively bad
taste. Coats and pantaloons, too, are here and there seen ; but
they look awkwardly enough, and take away from the general
effect.

But it is the array of countenances that most strikes you.
Each is suffused with the pecular animation of the Polynesians,
when thus collected in large numbers. Every robe is rustling,
every limb in motion, and an incessant buzzing going on
throughout the assembly. The tumult is so great, that the
voice of the placid old missionary, who now rises, is ahnost
inaudible. Some degree of silence is at length obtained through
the exertions of half-a-dozen strapping fellows, in white shirts
and no pantaloons. Eunning in among the settees, they are at
great pains to inculcate the impropriety of making a noise, by
creating a most unnecessary racket themselves. This part of
the service was quite comical.

There is a most interesting Sabbath school connected with
the church ; and the scholars, a vivacious, mischievous set, were
in one part of the gallery. I was amused by a party in a comer.
The teacher sat at one end of the bench, with a meek little
fellow by his side. When the others were disorderly, this
young martyr received a rap ; intended, probably, as a sample
of what the rest might expect, if they didn't amend.

Standing in the body of the church, and leaning against a
pillar, was an old man, in appearance very different from
others of his countrymen. He wore nothing but a coarse,
scant mantle, of faded tappa; and from his staring, bewil-
dered manner, I set him down as an aged biunpkin from the
interior, unaccustomed to the strange sights and sounds of the
metropolis. This old worthy was sharply reprimanded for
standing up, and thus intercepting the view of those behind;
but not comprehending exactly what was said to him, one of
the white liveried gentry made no ceremony of grasping him
by the shoulders, and fairly crushing him down into a seat.

During all this, the old missionary in the pulpit — as well as

his associates beneath, never ventured to interfere — leaving

everjr thing to native management. With South Sea islanders,

assembled in any numbers, tlxexe \a lio o^«t ^vj ^1 %^i^(X>a%

CHAP.XI.V.] A MISSIONARY'S SERMON. 171

CHAPTER XLV.

A MissioDary's Sermoa ; with some Reflections.

Some degree of order at length restored, the service was con-
tinued, by singing. The choir was composed of twelve or
fifteen ladies of the mission, occupying a long bench to the left
of the pulpit. Almost the entire congregation joined in.

The first air fairly startled me; it was the brave tune of
Old Hundred, adapted to a Tahitian psahn. After the grace-
less scenes I had recently passed through, this circumstance,
with all its accessories, moved me forcibly.

Many voices around were of great sweetness and compass.
The singers, also, seemed to enjoy themselves mightily ; some
of them pausing, now and then, and looking round, as if to
realise the scene more fully. In truth, they sang right joy-
ously, despite the solemnity of the tune.

The Tahitians have much natural talent for singing ; and, on
all occasions, are exceedingly fond of it I have often heard
a stave or two of psalmody, hummed over by rakish young
fellows, like a snatch from an opera.

With respect to singing, as in most other matters, the Tahi-
tians widely difier from the people of the Sandwich Islands ;
where the parochial flocks may be said rather to bleat than

The psalm concluded, a prayer followed. Very consider-
ately, the good old missionary made it short ; for the congre-
gation became fidgety and inattentive as soon as it com-
menced.

A chapter of the Tahitian Bible was now read ; a text
selected, and the sermon began. It was listened to with more
attention than I had anticipated.

Having been informed, from various sources, that the dis-
courses of the missionaries, being calculated to e\i^«.'^<i. "^Vsfc
attention of their simple auditors, Yrere, xvaXuT^-^ e.xiwx^ ^*^ ^

172 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, [chap.zlt.

rather amusing description to strangers; in short, that they
had n;uch to say about steam boats, lord mayors* coaches, and
the way fires are put out in London, I had taken care to pro-
vide myself with a good interpreter, in the person of an intelli-
gent Hawaiian sailor, whose acquaintance I had made.

"Now, Jack," said I, before entering, "hear every word,
and tell me what yon can, as the missionary goes on."

Jack's was not, perhaps, a critical version of the discourse;
and, at the time, I took no notes of what he said. Neverthe-
less, I will here venture to give what I remember of it ; and,
as far as possible, in Jack's phraseology, so as to lose nothing
by a double translation.

" Good friends, •! glad to see you ; and I very well like to
have some talk with you to-day. Good friends, very bad times
in Tahiti; it make me weep. Pomaree is gone — the island
no more yours, but the Wee- Wee's (French). Wicked priests
here, too; and wicked idols in woman's clothes, and brass
ehains.*

" Good friends, no you speak, or look at them — but I know
you won't — they belong to a set of robbers — the wicked Wee-
Wees, Soon these bad men be made to go very quick.
Beretanee ships of thunder come, and awaj they go. But no
mtae *bout this now. I speak more by by.

" Good friends, many whale-ships here now ; and many bad
men come in 'em. No good 8ail(H*8 living — that you know
very well. They come here, 'cause so bad they no keep 'em
home.

" My good little girls, no run after sailors — no go where they
go ; they harm you. Where they come from no good people
talk to 'em — just like dogs. Here, they talk to Pomaree, and
drink arva with great Poofai.f

" Good friends, this very small island, but very wicked, and
very poor; these two go together. Why Beretanee so great?
Because that island good island, and send mickonaree Ijj. to poor

* Meaning the showy image of the Virgin in the little Catholic chapeL
f The word " arva," as here employee^ means brandy. Poofiu was one
of the highest chiefs on the island, and a ioWy <iom^a.nlon.
/ TTiis word, evidently a corrwpdan. oi '•^xMaswni'BBrjr ^^

CHJLP. XLY.] A MISSIONARY'S SERMON. 17$

kannakcu* In Beretanee, everj man rich: plenty things to
buy ; and plenty things to sell. Houses bigger than Fomaree's^
and more grand. Every body, too, ride about in coaches,
bigger than herst ; and wear fine tappa every day. (Several
luxurious appliances of civilization were here enumerated, and
described.)

^^ Good friends, little to eat left at my house. Schooner from
Sydney no bring bag of flour ; and kannaka no bring pig and
fruit enough. Mickonaree do great deal for kannaka ; kannaka
do little for mickonaree. So, good friends, weave plenty of
cocoa-nut baskets, All *em, and bring *em to-morrow."

Such was the substance of great part of this discourse ; and,
whatever may be thought of it, it was specially adapted to the
minds of the islanders ; who are susceptible to no impressions,
except from things palpable, or novel and striking. To them,
a dry sermon would be dry indeed.

The Tahitians can hardly ever be said to reflect : they are all
impulse ; and so, instead of expounding dogmas, the mission-
aries give them the large type, pleasing cuts, and short and easy
lessons of the primer. Hence, any thing like a permanent re-
ligious impression is seldom or never produced.

In fact, there is, perhaps, no race upon earth less disposed
by nature to the monitions of Christianity than the people of
the South Sea. And this assertion is made with full know-
ledge of what is called the '^ Great Kevival at the Sandwich
Idands," about the year 1836; when several thousands were,
in the course of a few weeks, admitted into the bosom of the
Church. But this result was brought about by no sober moral
convictions ; as an almost instantaneous relapse into every kind
of licentiousness soon afterwards testified. It was the legitimate
eflect of a morbid feeling, engendered by the sense of severe
physical wants, preying upon minds excessively prone to super-
stition ; and by fanatical preaching, inflamed into the belief,

various significations by the natives. Sometimes, it is applied to a com-
municant of the Church. But, above^ it has its original meaning.

• A word generally used by foreigners to designate the natives of Poly-
nesia.

f Pomaree, some time previous, had received a present of a chariot
from Queen Victoria. It was afterwards seuX to O^u (^iaAV\OE!L\^As^^>
and there sold to pay her debts.

174 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. xlv.

that the gods of the missionaries were taking vengeance upon
the wickedness of the land.*

It is a noteworthy fact, that those very traits in the Tahitians
which induced the London Missionary Society to regard them
as the most promising subjects for conversion, and which led,
moreover, to the selection of their island as the very first field
for missionary labour, eventually proved the most serious ob-
struction. An air of softness in their manners, great apparent
ingenuousness and docility, at first misled ; but these were the
mere accompaniments of an indolence, bodily and mental ; a
constitutional voluptuousness; and an aversion to the least
restraint; which, however fitted for the luxurious state of
nature, in the tropics, are the greatest possible hindrances to
the strict moralities of Christianity.

Added to all this, is a quality inherent in Polynesians ; and
more akin to hypocrisy than any thing else. It leads them to
assume the most passionate interest in matters for which they
really feel little or none whatever, but in which those whose
power they dread, or whose favour they court, they believe to
be at all afiected. Thus, in their heathen state, the Sandwich
Islanders actually knocked out their teeth, tore their hair, and
mangled their bodies with shells, to testify their inconsolable
grief at the demise of a high chief, or member of the royal
family. And yet, Vancouver relates, that, on such an occasion,
upon which he happened to be present, those apparently the
most abandoned to their feelings, immediately assumed the
utmost light-heartedness, on receiving the present of a penny
whistle, or a Dutch looking-glass. Similar instances, also, have
come under my own observation.

The following is an illustration of the trait alluded to, as
occasionally manifested among the converted Polynesians.

At one of the Society Islands — Raiatair, I believe — the
natives, for special reasons, desired to commend themselves
particularly to the favour of the missionaries. Accordingly,
during divine service, many of them behaved in a manner,
otherwise unaccountable, and precisely similar to their be-

* At this period, many of the pop\i\aA\oiti"v?eT%^w.^QTi\\Av«r^€ of starva-

CHAP. XLV.] A MISSIONARY'S SERMON. 175

haviour as heathens. They pretended to be wrought up to
madness by the preaching which they heard. They rolled their
eyes ; foamed at the mouth ; fell down in fits ; and so were
carried home. Yet, strange to relate, all this was deemed the
evidence of the power of the Most High ; and, as such, was
heralded abroad.

But, to return to the Church of the Cocoa-nuts. The bless-
ing pronounced, the congregation disperse; enlivening the
Broom Koad with their waving mantles. On either hand, they
disappear down the shaded pathways, which lead off from the
main route, conducting to hamlets in the groves, or to the little
marine villas upon the beach. Inhere is considerable hilarity ;
and you would suppose them just from an old-fashioned "hevar,"
or jolly heathen dance. Those who carry Bibles, swing them
carelessly from their arms, by cords of sinnate.

The Sabbath is no ordinary day with the Tahitians. So far
as doing any work is concerned, it is scrupulously observed.
The canoes are hauled up on the beach ; the nets are spread to
dry. Passing by the hen-coop huts, on the roadside, you find
their occupants idle, as usual ; but less disposed to gossip. After
service, repose broods over the whole island ; the valleys reach-
ing inland look stiller than ever.

In short, it is Sunday — their " Taboo Day ;" the very word,
formerly expressing the sacredness of their pagan observances,
now proclaiming the sanctity of the Christian Sabbath.

176 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, [cmif.xlh.

CHAPTER XLVI.

Something about the Kannakippers.

A WOBTHY young man, formerly a friend of mine (I spedi of
Kooloo with all possible courtesy, since after our intimacy there
would be an impropriety in doing otherwise) — this wortliy
youth, having some genteel notions of retirement, dwelt in a
" maroo boro," or bread-fruit shade, a pretty nook in a wood,
midway between the Calabooza Beretanee an4 the Church of
Cocoa-nuts. Hence, at the latter place, he was one of the most
regular worshippers.

Kooloo was a blade. Standing up in the congregation in all
the bravery of a striped calico shirt, with the skirts rakishlj
adjusted over a pair of white sailor trowsers, and hair weU
anointed with cocoa-nut oil, he ogled the ladies with an air of
supreme satisfaction. Nor were his glances unreturned.

But such looks as the Tahitian belles cast at each other:
frequently turning up their noses at the advent of a new cotton
mantle recently imported in the chest of some amorous sailor.
Upon one occasion, I observed a group of young girls, in tunics
of coarse, soiled sheeting, disdainfully pointing at a damsel in a
flaming red one. " Oee tootai owree !" said they with ineffable
scorn, "itai maitai!" (you are a good-for-nothing huzzy, no
better than you should be).

Now, Kooloo communed with the church ; so did all these
censorious young ladies. Yet, after eating bread-fruit at the
Eucharist, I knew several of them, the same night, to be guilty
of some sad derelictions.

Puzzled by these things, I resolved to find out, if possible,

what ideas, if any, they entertained of religion ; but as one's

spiritual concerns are rather delicate for a stranger to meddle

with, I went to work as adroitly as I could.

Farnow, an old native who \va^ xee^n^X-^ ^^NAx^^^^ooiLWitive

CHAP. XLVt] THE KANNAKIPPERS. 177

pursuits, having thrown up the business of being a sort of
running footman to the queen, had settled down in a snug little
retreat, not fifty rods from Captain Bob's. His selecting our
vicinity for his residence, may have been with some view to the
advantages it afforded for introducing his three daughters into
polite circles. At any rate, not averse to receiving the atten-
tions of so devoted a gallant as the doctor, the sisters (com-
municants, be it remembered) kindly extended to him free
permisMon to visit them sociably whenever he pleased.

We dropped in one evening, and found the ladies at home.
My long friend engaged his favourites, the two younger girls,
at the game of " Now," or hunting a stone under three piles of
tappa. For myself, I lounged on a mat with Ideea, the eldest,
dallying with her grass fan, and improving my knowledge of
Tahitian.

The occasion was well adapted to my purpose, and I began.

"Ah, Ideea, mickonaree oee?" the same as drawling out —
"By the by, Miss Ideea, do you belong to the church?"

" Yes, me mickonaree," was the reply.

But the assertion was at once qualified by certain reserva-
tions ; so curious, that I cannot forbear their relation.

** Mickonaree end^ (church member here)^ exclaimed she,
laying her hand upon her mouth, and a strong emphasis on the
adverb. In the same way, and with similar exclamations, she
touched her eyes and hands. This done, her whole air changed
in an instant; and she gave me to understand, by unmistakable
gestures, that in certain other respects she was not exactly a
" mickonaree." In short, Ideea was

•* A sad good Christian at the heart —
A very heathen in the carnal part." *

The explanation terminated in a burst of laughter, in which
all three sisters joined; and, for fear of looking silly, the doctor
and myself. As soon as good-breeding would permit, we took
leave.

The hypocrisy in matters of religion, so apparent in all
Polynesian converts, is most injudiciously nourished in Tahiti,
by a zealou3 and, in many cases, a coercive superintendence over

* Vo^^ (Epistle to a Lady'i.

178 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, [chjjp. jlyl

their spiritual well-being. But it is only manifested with
respect to the common people, their superiors being exempted.

On Sunday mornings, when the prospect is rather smadl £<» a
full house in the minor churches, a parcel of fellows are actnallj
sent out with ratans into the highways and byways as whippers-
in of the congregation. This is a sober fact.*

These worthies constitute a religious police ; and you always
know them by the great white diapers they wear. On wedt
days, they are quite as busy as on Sundays ; to the greatterror
of the inhabitants, going all over the island, and spying out the
wickedness thereof.

Moreover, they are the collectors of fines — levied generallj
in grass mats — for obstinate non-attendance upon divine wor-
ship, and other offences amenable to the ecclesiastical judicature
of the missionaries.

Old Bob called these fellows " kannakippers," a corruption,
I fancy, of our word constable.

He bore them a bitter grudge ; and one day, drawing near
home, and learning that two of them were just then making a
domiciliary visit at his house, he ran behind a bush ; and as
they came forth, two green bread-fruit from a hand unseen
took them each between the shoulders. The sailors in the
Calabooza were witnesses to this, as well as several natives ;
who, when the intruders were out of sight, applauded Captain
Bob's spirit in no measured terms ; the ladies present vehe-
mently joining in. Indeed, the kannakippers have no greater
enemies than the latter. And no wonder : the impertinent
varlets, popping into their houses at all hours, are for ever prying
into their peccadilloes.

Kooloo, who at times was patriotic and pensive, and mourned
the evils under which his country was groaning, frequently
inveighed against the statute which thus authorized an utter
stranger to interfere with domestic arrangements. He himself
— quite a ladies* man — had often been annoyed thereby. He
considered the kannakippers a bore.

Besides their confounded inquisitiveness, they add insult to

* With abhorrence and disgust the custom is alluded to by a late bene-
roJent visitor at the island. See pa^e 7^^. of tl\« " Memoirs of the Life and
Gospel La boars of the late Daniel^N \\ee\w ." K ^ ctV WeaSxsst \a \» more
"tksaJarly a/iuded to.

CKAP. XLYI.] THE KAKKAKIPPERa 179

injury, by making a point of dining out every day at some hut
within the limits of their jurisdiction. As for the gentleman of
the house, his meek endurance of these things is amazing. But,
" good easy man," there is nothing for him but to be as hos-
pitable as possible.

These gentry are indefatigable. At the dead of night prowl-
ing round the houses, and in the daytime hunting amorous
couples in the groyes. Yet in one instance the chase completely
baffled them.

It was thus : —

Several weeks previous to our arrival at the island, some
one's husband and another person's wife, having taken a mutual
£uiey for each other, went out for a walk. The alarm was
raised, and with hue and cry they were pursued ; but nothing
was seen of them again until the lapse of some ninety days r
when we were called out from the Calabooza to behold a great
mob inclosing the lovers, and escorting them for trial to the
village.

Their appearance was most singular. The girdle excepted,
they were quite naked ; their hair was long, burned yellow at
the ends, and entangled with burs ; and their bodies scratched
and scarred in all directions. It seems, that acting upon the
"love-in-a-cottage" principle, they had gone right into the
interior ; and, throwing up a hut in an uninhabited valley, had
lived there, until in an unlucky stroll, they were observed and
captured.

They were subsequently condemned to make one hundred
fathoms of Broom Road — a six months' work, if not more.

Often, when seated in a house, conversing quietly with its
inmates, I have known them betray the greatest confusion at the
sadden announcement of a kannakipper's being in sight. To
be reported by one of these officials as a " Tootai Owree" (in
general, signifying a bad* person or disbeliever in Christianity)
is as much dreaded as the forefinger of Titus Gates was, levelled
at an alleged papist.

But the islanders take a sly revenge upon them Upon
entering a dwelling, the kannakippers oftentimes volunteer a
Pharisaical prayer-meeting : hence, they ^o m ^clx^X. \s^ ^<fc
wuneof ''Boora-ArtusLSy* literally, "Pray-lo-Cjo^'^r

M 2

180 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [cHAP.XLm

CHAPTER XLVIL ,

How they dress in Tahiti.

Except where the employment of making " tappa *' is inflicted
as a punishment, the echoes of the cloth-mallet have long since
died away in the listless valleys of Tahiti. Formerlj, the giris
spent their mornings like ladies at their tambour frames ; newc,
they are lounged away in almost utter indolence. True, most
of them make their own garments ; but this comprises but a
stitch or two ; the ladies of the mission, by the bj, being en-
titled to the credit of teaching them to sew.

The " kihee whihenee," or petticoat, is a mere breadth of
white cotton, or calico ; loosely enveloping the person, from the
waist to the feet. Fastened simplj, by a single tuck, or by
twisting the upper corners together, this garment frequently
becomes disordered ; thus affording an opportunity of being
coquettishly adjusted. ' Over the " kihee," they wear a sort of
gown, open in front, very loose, and as negligent as you please.
The ladies here never dress for dinner.

But what shall be said of those horrid hats ! Fancy a bunch
of straw, plaited into the shape of a coal*skuttle, and stuck, bolt
upright, on the crown ; with a yard or two of red ribbon, flying
about like kite-strings. IVIilliners of Paris, what would ye say to
them ! Though made by the natives; they are said to have been
first contrived and recommended by the missionaries' wives ; a
report which I really trust is nothing but scandal.

Curious to relate, these things for the head are esteemed ex-
ceedingly becoming. The braiding of the straw is one of the
few employments of the higher classes ; all of which but minister
to the silliest vanity. Tlie young girls, however, wholly eschew
the hata ; leaving those doudy old souls, their mothers, to make
frights of themselves.
As for the men, those wTio aaptr^ ^ 'EAxxo^'Wi %«rBL^\^ ^

CHAP. XLvn.] HOW THEY DRESS IN TAHITI. 181

to have no perception of the relation subsisting between the
various parts of a gentleman's costume. To the wearer of a
coat, for instance, pantaloons are by no means indispensable ;
and a bell-crowned hat and a girdle are full dress. The young
sailor, for whom Kooloo deserted me, presented him with a
shaggy old pea-jacket ; and, with this buttoned up to his chin,
under a tropical sun, he promenaded the Broom Road, quite
elated. Doctor Long Ghost, who saw him thus, ran away with
the idea that he was under medical treatment at the time — in^
the act of taking, what the quacks call, a ^' sweat."

A bachelor friend of Captain Bob rejoiced in the possession^
of a full European suit ; in which he often stormed the ladies'
hearts. Having a military leaning, he ornamented the coart
with a great scarlet patch on the breast ; and mounted it also,
here and there, with several regimental buttons, slyly cut from
the uniform of a parcel of drunken marines, sent ashore on a
holyday from a man-of-war. But, in spite of the ornaments, the
dress was not exactly the thing. From the tightness of the
cloth across the shoulders, his elbows projected from his sides,
like an ungainly rider's ; and his ponderous legs were jammed
so hard into his slim, nether garments, that the threads of every
seam showed ; and at every step you looked for a catastrophe. -

In general, there seems to be no settled style of dressing among
the males : they wear any thing they can get ; in some cases,
awkwardly modifying the fashions of their fathers, so as to ac- "
cord with their own altered views of what is becoming.

But ridiculous as many of them now appear in foreign habi*^
liments, the Tahitians presented a far different appearance ia
the original national costume ; which was graceful in the ex-
treme, modest to all but the prudish, and peculiarly adapted to
the climate. But the short kilts of dyed tappa, the tasselled
maroes, and other articles formerly worn, are, at the present
day, prohibited by law as indecorous. For what reason neck-
laces and garlands of flowers,, among the women, were also for-
bidden, I never could learn; but it is said that they were
associated, in some way, with a forgotten heathen observance.

Many pleasant and seemingly innocent sports and pastimes
are likewise interdicted. In old times, thev^ YieY^ «»^N^YiL ^jCs^r
letic games practised, such as wrestling, ioo\.-T^CATv%, >^Ytwvv»f»,

N 3

182 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [obap. XLm

the javelin, and archerj. In all these they greatly excelled;
and, for some, splendid festivals were instituted. Among their
everyday amusements, were dancing, tossing the football, kite-
flying, flute-playing, and singing traditional ballads — now, all
punishable offences ; though most of them have been so long in
disuse that they are nearly forgotten.

In the same way, the " Opio," or festive harvest home of the
bread-fruit, has been suppressed ; though, as described to me by
Captain Bob, it seemed wholly free from any immoral tendency.
Against tattooing, of any kind, there is a severe law.

That this abolition of their national amusements and customs
was not willingly acqmesced in, is shown in the frequent viola-
tion of many of the statutes inhibiting them ; and, especially, in
the frequency with which their " hevara," or dances, are pne-
ttsed in secret.

Doubtless, in thus denationalising the Tahitians, as it were,
the missionaries were prompted by a sincere desire for good ;
hat the effect has been lamentable. Supplied with no amuse-
ments, in place of those forbidden, the Tahitians^ who require
more recreation than other people, have sunk into a listlesf new^
or indulge in sensualities, a hundred times more peraicioiis than
all die games ever celebrated in the Temple of Taaee.

CKAP. xLvm.] TAHITI AS IT I& 183

CHAPTER XLVm.

Tahiti as it is.

As^ in the last few chapters, several matters connected with the
general condition of the natives have been incidentally touched
upon, it may be well not to leave so important a subject in a
state calculated to convey erroneous impressions. Let us be-
stow upon it, therefore, something more than a mere cursory
glance.

But, in the first place, let it be distinctly understood, that in
all I have to say upon this subject, both here and elsewhere, I
mean no harm to the missionaries, nor their cause : I merely
desire to set forth things as they actually exist.

Of the results which have flowed from the intercourse of
foreigners with the Polynesians, including the attempts to civi-
lize and christianize them by the missionaries, Tahiti, on many
accounts, is obviously the fairest practical example. Indeed, it
may now be asserted, that the experiment of christianizing the
Tahitians, and improving their social condition by the intro-
duction of foreign customs, has been fully tried. The present
generation have grown up under the auspices of their religious
instructors. And although it may be urged that the labours of
the latter have at times been more or less obstructed by un-
principled foreigners, still this in no wise renders Tahiti any
the less a fair illustration ; for, with obstacles like these, the
missionaries in Polynesia must always, and everywhere struggle.

Nearly sixty years have elapsed since the Tahitian mission
WHS started; and during this period it has received the un-
ceasing prayers and contributions of its fnends abroad. Nor
has any enterprise of the kind called forth more devotion on
the part of those directly employed in it.

It matters not, that the earlier labourexa m\Vi'^^NwV^^s^5^wisgs^.
stnetljr conscientious, were, as a class, ignoxaiaX., ^x^^, vcl xsiWK^

N 4

184 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chAp, XLvm.

cases, deplorably bigoted : such traits have, in some degree,
characterized the pioneers of all faiths. And although, in zeal
and disinterestedness, the missionaries now on the island are,
perhaps, inferior to their predecessors, they have, nevertheless,
in their own way at least, laboured hard to make a Christian
people of their charge.

Let us now glance at the most obvious changes wrought in
their condition.

The entire system of idolatry has been done away, together
w:ith several barbarous practices engrafted thereon. But this
result is not so much to be ascribed to the missionaries as to
the civilizing effects of a long and constant intercourse with
whites of all nations ; to whom, for many years, Tahiti has been
one of the principal places of resort in the South Seas, At the
Sandwich Islands, the potent Institution of the Taboo, together
with the entire paganism of the land, was utterly abolished by
a voluntary act of the natives, some time previous to the aiTival
of the first missionaries among them.

The next most striking change in the Tahitians is this. From
the permanent residence among them of influential and respect-
able foreigners, as well as from the frequent visits of ships of
war, recognizing the nationality of the island, its inhabitants are
Xio longer deemed fit subjects for the atrocities practsied upon
mere savages ; and hence, secure from retaliation, vessels of all
kinds now enter their harbours with perfect safety.

But let us consider what results are directly ascribable to the
ipissionaries alone.

In all cases, they have striven hard to mitigate the evils rc-
fiiulting from the commerce with the whites in general. Such
attempts, however, have been rather injudicious, and often
ineffectual: in truth, a barrier almost insurmountable is pre-
sented in the dispositions of the people themselves. Still, in
this respect, the morality of the islanders is, upon the whole,
improved by the presence of the missionaries.

But the greatest achievement of the latter, and one which iu

itself is most hopeful and gratifying, is, that they have translated

the entire Bible into the language of the island ; and I have

myself known several who were able to read it with facility.

Tbejr have also established chwxeV^^a, ^li^ %OcioOis>^Q^\i^'Osv<^-

CHAP. xLvm.] TAHITI AS IT IS, 18S

dren and adults ; the latter, I regret to say, are now much
neglected ; which must be ascribed, in a great measure, to the
disorders growing out of the proceedings of the French.

It were unnecessary here to enter diffusely into matters coa
nected with the internal government of the Taliitian churches
and schools. Nor, upon this head, is my information copious
enough to warrant me in presenting details. But we do not
need them. We are merely considering general results, as
made apparent in the moral and religious condition of the
island at large.

Upon a subject like this, however, it would be altogether too
assuming for a single individual to decide ; and so, in place, of
my own random observations, which may be found elsewhere, I
will here present those of several known authors, made under
various circumstances, at different periods, and down to a com-
paratively late date. A few very brief extracts will enable the
reader to mark for himself what progressive improvement, if
any, has taken place.

Nor must it be overlooked, that of these authorities, the two
first in order are largely quoted by the Right Reverend M.
Russell, in a work composed for the express purpose of im-
parting information on the subject of Christian missions in
Polynesia. And he frankly acknowledges, moreover, that they
are such as " cannot fail to have great weight with the pub-
lic."*

After alluding to the manifold evils entailed upon the natives
by foreigners, and their singularly inert condition ; and after
somewhat too severely denouncing the undeniable errors of the
mission, Kotzebue, the Russian navigator, says, " A religion
like this, which forbids every innocent pleasure, and cramps or
annihilates every mental power, is a libel on the divine founder
of Christianity. It is true, that the religion of the missionaries
has, with a great deal of evil, effected some good. It has re-
strained the vices of theft and incontinence ; but it has given
birth to ignorance, hypocrisy, and a hatred of all other modes

* Polynesia : or an Historical Account of the Principal Islands of the
South Sea : By the Right Rev. M. RusscU, LL,B. ^Har^^x^' ^vssScj
Library Edition), p. 96.

186 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, xltul

of faith, which was once foreign to the open and benevolent
character of the Tahitian." *

Captain Beechy says, that while at Tahiti he saw scenes
" which must have convinced the greatest sceptic of the tho-
roughly immoral condition of the people, and which would force
him to conclude, as TurnbuU f did many years previous, that
their intercourse with the Europeans had tended to debase
rather than exalt their condition." J

About the year 1834, Daniel Wheeler, an honest-hearted
Quaker, prompted by motives of the purest philanthropy,
visited, in a vessel of his own, most of the missionary settle-
ments in the South Seas. He remained some time at Tahiti ;
receiving the hospitalities of the missionaries there, and, from
time to time, exhorting the natives.

After bewailing their social condition, he frankly says of
their religious state, " Certainly, appearances are unpro-
mising ; and however unwilling to adopt such a conclusion,
there is reason to apprehend, that Christian principle is a great
rarity." §

Such, then, is the testimony of good and unbiassed men who
have been upon the spot ; but how comes it to differ so widely
from impressions of others at home ? Simply thus : instead of
estimating the result of missionary labours by the number of
heathens who have actually been made to understand and prac-
tise (in some measure at least) the precepts of Christianity, this
result has been unwarrantably inferred from the number of
those who, without any understanding of these things, have in
any way been induced to abandon idolatry and conform to certain
outward observances.

By authority of some kind or other, exerted upon the natives
through their chiefs, and promoted by the hope of some worldly

* A new Voyage round the World in the years 1823-24-25-26 : By
Otto Von Kotzebue, Post Captain in the Russian Imperial Seirioe
(London, 1830 ; 2 vols. 8vo.), vol. i. p. 168.

♦ The author of a Voyage round the World, in the years 1800-1804,
(3 vols. 8vo. London, 1805).

J Narrative of a Voyage to the Pacific and Bhering's Straits, under the
command of Captain F. W. Beechy, R. N. (London, 1831), vol. i. p. 287.
. f Memoirs of the Life and GospeV "LaVyoxxx* oi ^<i\aXfc T^^svlftl Wheeler,
T minister of the Society of Friends (liOn^on, \%\'i,^N<i.^>^.nvi»

esAP. xLTm.] TAHITI AS IT IS. 187

benefit to the latter, and not by appeals to the reason, have con-
versions in Polynesia been in most cases brought about.

Even in one or two instances — so often held up as wonderful
examples of divine power — where the natives have impulsively
burned their idols, and rushed to the waters of baptism, the
very suddenness of the change has but indicated its unsound-
ness. Williams, the martyr of Erromanga, relates an instance
where the inhabitants of an island professing Christianity
voluntarily assembled, and solenmly revived all their heathen
customs.

All the world over, facts are more eloquent than words ; and
the following will show in what estimation the missionaries
themselves hold the present state of Christianity and morals
among the converted Polynesians.

On the island of Imeeo (attached to the Tahitian mission) is
a seminary, under the charge of the Rev. Mr. Simpson and wife,
for the education of the children of the missionaries exclusively.
Sent home — in many cases, at a very early age — to finish
their education, the pupils here are taught nothing but the rudi-
ments of knowledge ; nothing more than may be learned in the
native schools. Notwithstanding this, the two races are kept
as far as possible from associating; the avowed reason being, to
preserve the young whites from moral contamination. The
better to insure this end, every effort is made to prevent them
from acquiring the native language.

They went even further at the Sandwich Islands ; where, a
few years ago, a play-ground for the children of the missionaries
was inclosed with a fence many feet high, the more effectually
to exclude the wicked little Hawaiians.

And yet, strange as it may seem, the depravity among the
Polynesians, which renders precautions like these necessary, was
in a measure unknown before their intercourse with the whites.
The excellent Captain Wilson, who took the first missionaries
out to Tahiti, affirms, that the people of that island had, in
many things, " more refined ideas of decency than ourselves.***

* A Missionary Voyage to the South Pacific Ocean, Appendix, pp. 336.
342.

188 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, xlvid.

Vancouver, also, has some noteworthy ideas on this subject,
respecting the Sandwich Islanders.*

That the immorality alluded to is continually increasing, is
plainly shown in the numerous, severe, and perpetually violated
laws against licentiousness of all kinds, in both groups of
islands.

It is hardly to be expected, that the missionaries would send
home accounts of this state of things. Hence, Captain Beechy,
in alluding to the " Polynesian Researches" of Ellis, says, that
the author has impressed his readers with a far more elevated
idea of the moral condition of the Tahitians, and the degree of
civilization to which they have attained, than they deserve *r or,
at least, than the facts which came under his observation autho-
rised. He then goes on to say, that in his intercourse with the
islanders, " they had no fear of him, and consequently acted
from the impulse of their natural feelings ; so that he was the
better enabled to obtain a correct knowledge of their real dis-
position and habits." t

From my own familiar intercourse with the natives, this last
reflection still more forcibly applies to myself.

* See Vancouver's Voyages, 4to. ediUon, voL i. p. 172. ^
t Beechy *s Narrative, p. 269.^

CTAP. xux.] SAME SUBJECT CONTINUED.

CHAPTER XLIX.

Same subject continaed.'

We have glanced at their moral and religious condition ; let us
see how it is with them socially, and in other respects.

It has been said that the only way to civilize a people is to
form in them habits of industry. Judged by this principle, the
Tahitians are less civilized now than formerly. True, their
constitutional indolence is excessive ; but surely, if the spirit
of Christianity is among them, so unchristian a vice ought to
be, at least, partially remedied. But the reverse is the fact.
Instead of acquiring new occupations, old ones have been dis-
continued.

As previously remarked, the manufacture of tappa is nearly
obsolete in many parts of the island. So, too, with that of the
native tools and domestic utensils ; very few of which are now
fabricated, since the superiority of European wares has been
made so evident.

This, however, would be all very well, were the natives to
apply themselves to such occupations as would enable them to
supply the few articles they need. But they are far from doing
so ; and the majority being unable to obtain European substi-
tutes for many things before made by themselves, the inevitable
consequence is seen in the present wretched and destitute mode
of life among the common people. To me, so recently from a
primitive valley of the Marquesas, the aspect of most of the
dwellings of the poorer Tahitians, and their general habits,
seemed any thing but tidy ; nor could I avoid a comparison,
immeasurably to the disadvantage of these partially civilized
islanders.

In Tahiti the people have nothing to do ; and idleness,
everywhere, is the parent of vice. " There is scarcely any
thing," says the good old Quaker Wheeler, "so striking;^ or
pHiahle, as their aimleBB, nerveless mode o? s^eivSiii^XiS!^^

190 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. \\

Attempts have repeatedly been made to rouse them from
their sluggishness ; but in vain. Several years ago, the culti-
vation of cotton was introduced ; and with their usual love of
novelty, they went to work with great alacrity; but the interest
excited quickly subsided, and now not a pound of the article
is raised.

About the same time, machinery for weaving was sent oat
from London; [and a factory was started at Afrehitoo, in
Imeeo. The whiz of the wheels and spindles brought in
volunteers from all quarters, who deemed it a privilege to be
admitted to work : yet, in six months, not a boy could be
hired ; and the machinery was knocked' down, and packed off
to Sydney.

It was the same way with the cultivation of the sugar-cane,,
a plant indigenous to the island ; peculiarly fitted to the soil
and climate, and of so excellent a quality, that Bligh took slips
of it to the West Indies. All the plantations went on famously
for a while ; the natives swarming in the fields, like ants, and
making a prodigious stir. What few plantations now remain,
are owned and worked by whites, who would rather pay a
drunken sailor eighteen or twenty Spanish dollars a month
than hire a sober native for his " fish and taro."

It is well worthy remark here, that every evidence of civi-
Miation among the South Sea Islands directly pertains to
foreigners ; though the fact of such evidence existing at all
is usually urged as a proof of the elevated condition of the
natives. Thus, at Honolulu, the capital of the Sandwich
Islands, there are fine dwelling-houses, several hotels, and
barber-shops, ay, even billiard-rooms ; but all these are owned
and used, be it observed, by whites. There are tailors, and
blacksmiths, and carpenters also ; but not one of them is a native.

The fact is, that the mechanical and agricultural employ-
ments of civilized life require a kind of exertion altogether
too steady and sustained to agree with an indolent people
like the Polynesians. Calculated for a state of nature, in a
climate providentially adapted to it, they are unfit for any
other. Nay, as a race, they cannot otherwise long exist.

The following statement speaks for itself.
About the year 1777, Captain Coo^^a\I\Hi^\&^x}cv^^^^>4iition

CHAP.zuz.] SAME SUBJECT CONTINUED. 191

of Tahiti at about two hundred thousand. ♦ By a regular
census, taken some four or ^ye years ago, it was found to
be only nine thousand, f This amazing decrease not only
shows the malignsney of the evils necessary to produce it,
but, from the fact the inference unavoidably follows that all
the wars, chfld murders, and other depopulating causes, alleged
to have existed in former times, were nothing in comparison
to them.

These evils, of course, are solely of foreign origin. To say
BQftiiing of the effects of drunkenness, the occasional inroads of
Hbe small-pox, and other things which might be mentioned, it
is sufficient to allude to a virulent disease, which now taints
the blood of at least two thirds of the common people of the
island ; and, in some form or other, is [transmitted from father
to son.

Their first horror and consternation at the earlier ravages of
this scourge were pitiable in the extreme. The vetj name
bestowed upon it, is a combination of all that is horrid and
unmentionable to a civilized being.

Distracted with their sufferings, they brought forth their sick
before the missionaries, when they were preaching, and cried
out, " lies, lies ! you tell us of salvation ; and, behold, we are
dying. We want no other salvation than to live in this world.
Where are there any saved through your speech ? Pomaree
is dead ; and we are all dying with your cursed diseases.
When will you give over ? "

At present, the virulence of the disorder in individual cases

♦ " I was convinced," he adds, " that from the vast swarms that every-
where appeared, this estimate was not at all too great"

f For an allusion to this census, see one of the chapters on Tahiti, in
the volumes of the U. S. Exploring Expedition. And, for the almost
incredihle depopulation of the Sandwich Islands, in recent years, see the
same work. The progressive decrease, in certain districts, for a consider-
able period, is there marked.

Ruschenberger, an intelligent surgeon in the United States Navy, takes
the following instance from the records kept on the islands. This district
of Rohalo, in Hawaii, at one time numbered 8679 souls : four years after,
the population was 6175 : decrease, in that time, 2504. No extraordinary
cause is assigned for this depopulation. — Vide A Voyage round the World
in the years 1835-36-37. By W. S. Ruschenberger, M.D, C^^V^iisjlviV^^^
1838. 8ro.) The chapter on the Sandwich Islands.

192 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. xnx.

has somewhat abated ; but the poison is only the more widely
diffused.

" How dreadful and appalling," breaks forth old Wheeler,
"the consideration, that the intercourse of distant nations
should have entailed upon these poor, untutored islanders a curse
unprecedented and unheard of in the annals of history."

In view of these things, who can remain blind to the fact,
that so far as mere temporal felicity is concerned, the Tahi-
tians are far worse off now than formerly ; and although their
circumstances, upon the whole, are bettered by the presence
of the missionaries, the benefits conferred by the latter become
utterly insignificant when confronted with the vast preponder*
ance of evil brought about by other means.

Their prospects are hopeless. Nor can the most devoted
efforts now exempt them from furnishing a marked illustration
of a principle which history has always exemplified. Years
ago brought to a stand, where all that is corrupt in barbarism
and civilization unite, to the exclusion of the virtues of either
state ; like other uncivilized beings, brought into contact with
Europeans, they must here remain stationary imtil utterly
extinct.

The islanders themselves, are mournfully watching their
doom. Several years since, Pomaree II. said to Tyreman and
Bennet, the deputies of the London Missionary Society, " You
have come to see me at a very bad time. Your ancestors
came in the time of men, when Tahiti was inhabited : you are
come to behold just the remnant of my people."

Of like import, was the prediction of Teearmoar, the high-
priest of Paree, who lived over a hundred years ago. I have
frequently heard it chanted, in a low, sad tone, by aged Tahi-
tians: —

" A harree ta fow,
A toro ta farraro,
A now ta tararta."

The palm-tree shall grow,
The coral shall spread,
But man shall cease.

CHAP. L.] SOMETHING HAPPENS TO LONG GHOST. 193

CHAPTER L.

Something happens to Long Ghost.

We will now return to the narrative.

The day before the Julia sailed, Dr. Johnson paid his last
call. He was not quite so bland as usual. All he wanted was
the men's names to a paper, certifying to their having received
from him sundry medicaments, therein mentioned. This
voucher, endorsed by Captain Guy, secured his pay. But he
would not have obtained for it the sailors' signs manual, had
either the doctor or myself been present at the time.

Now, my long friend wasted no love upon Johnson ; but, for
reasons of his own, hated him heartily : all the same thing in
one sense ; for either passion argues an object deserving thereof.
And so, to be hated cordially, is only a left-handed compliment,
which shows how foolish it is to be bitter against any one.

For my own part, I merely felt a cool — purely incidental — and
passive contempt for Johnson, as a selfish, mercenary apothe-
cary ; and hence I often remonstrated with Long Ghost when
he flew out against him, and heaped upon him all manner of
scurrilous epithets. In his professional brother's presence,
however, he never acted thus ; maintaining an amiable exterior,
to help along the jokes which were played.

I am now going to tell another story, in which my long friend
figures with the physician : I do not wish to bring one or the
other of them too often upon the stage ; but, as the thing actually
happened, I must relate it.

A few days after Johnson presented his bill, as above men-
tioned, the doctor expressed to me his regret, that although he
(Johnson) had apparently been played off for our entertain-
ment, yet, nevertheless, he had made money out of the trans-
action. And I wonder, added the doctor, if, that now he can-
not expect to receive any further pay, b^ co\i\!i )a^ m^^^^\a

194 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEA& [cbat.l

By a curious coincidence, not five minutes after making this
observation, Doctor Long Ghost himself fell down in an unac-
countable fit; and without asking any body's leave^ Captain
Bob, who was by, at once despatched a boy, hot foot, for
Johnson.

Meanwhile, we carried him into the Calabooza ; and the
natives, who assembled in numbers, suggested various modes of
treatment. One rather energetic practitioner was for holding
the patient by the shoulders, while somebody tugged at his feet
This resuscitatory operation was called the "Potata;" but
thinking our long comrade sufficiently lengthy without additional
stretching, we declined potataing him.

Presently the physician was spied coming along the Broom
Road at a great rate, and so absorbed in the business of loco-
motion, that he heeded not the imprudence of being in a hurry
in a tropical climate. He was in a profuse perspiration, whidi
must have been owing to the warmth of his feelings, notwith-
standing we had supposed him a man of no heart. But his
benevolent haste upon this occasion was subsequently accounted
for : it merely arose from professional curiosity, to behold a
case most unusual in his Polynesian practice. Now, under
certain circumstances, sailors, generally so frolicsome, are ex-
ceedingly particular in having every thing conducted with the
strictest propriety. Accordingly, they deputed me, as his inti-
mate friend, to sit at Long Ghost's head, so as to be ready to
officiate as *< spokesman ; " and answer all questions propounded ;
the rest to keep silent.

" What's the matter ?" exclaimed Johnson, out of breath, and
bursting into the Calabooza : ^^ how did it happen ? — speak,
quick !" and he looked at Long Ghost.
I told him how the fit came on.

" Singular," — he observed — " very : good enough pulse ;*
and he let go of it, and placed his hand upon the heart.

'^ But what's all that frothing at the mouth?" he continued;
"and, bless me ! look at the abdomen!"

The region thus denominated exhibited the most unaccount-
able symptoms. A low, rumbling sound was heard ; and a sort
of undulation was discerm\Ae\^Ti<e»^k^<^lhixi cotton frock.
^' Colic, sir ?^ suggested a\>7-«.tMi^«t.

CHAP, t.] SOMETHING HAPPENS TO LONG GHOST. 195

" Colic be banged!** sbouted tbe pbjrsician ; " wbo ever beard
of any body in a trance of tbe colic ?"

During tbis, tbe patient lay upon bis back, stark and straigbt,
giving no signs of life except tbose above mentioned.

" ril bleed bim !* cried Jobnson at last — "run for a calabash^
one of you!**

" life bo!" bere stmg out Navy Bob, as if be had just spied
a safl.

" Wbat under tbe sun's tbe matter witb bim !" cried the phy-
sician, starting at tbe appearance of tbe mouth, which had
jerked to one side, and there reinained fixed.

" Pr'aps it's St. Witus's hornpipe," suggested Bob.

^Hold tbe calabash ! "-^ and the lancet was out in a moment.

But before tbe deed could be done, the face became natural ;
— a sigh was heaved ; — tbe eyelids quivered, opened, closed ;
and Long Ghost, twitching all over, rolled on bis side, and
breathed audibly. By degrees, he became sufficiently recovered
to speak.

After trying to get something coherent out of him, Johnson
withdrew ; evidently disappointed in the scientific interest of
tbe case. Soon after his departure, the doctor sat up; and upon
being asked what upon earth ailed him, shook his head myste-
riously. He then deplored the hardship of being an invalid in
such a place, where there was not the slightest provision for
bis comfort. This awakened tbe compassion of our good old
keeper, who ofiered to send him to a place where he would be
better cared for. Long Ghost acquiesced ; and being at once
mounted upon the shoulders of four of Captain Bob's men, was
marched off in state, like the Grand Lama of Thibet.

Now, I do not pretend to account for his remarkable swoon ;
but his reason for suffering himself to be thus removed from tbe
Calabooza was strongly suspected to be nothing more than a
desire to insure more regularity in his dinner-hour; hoping that
the benevolent native to whom he was going would set a good
table.

Tbe next morning we were all envying his fortune ; when,
of a sudden, he bolted in upon us, looking decidedly out of
humour.
" Hang it r he cried, " I'm worse off ttiaa cv^t \ \e\. m^Vv^^

W6 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap.u

«ome breakfast!" We lowered our slender bag of ship-stores
from a rafter, and banded him a biscuit* While this was being
munched, he went on and told us his storj*

" After leaving here, they trotted me back into a valley, and
left me in a hut, where an old woman lived by herself. This
must be the nurse, thought I ; and so I asked her to kill a pig,
and bake it; for I felt my appetite returning. ^ Ita! ita! —
oee mattee — mattee nuee* — (no, no ; you too sick.) * The devil
mattee ye,' said I — ' give me something to eat T But nothing
could be had. Night coming on, I had to stay. Creeping into
a corner, I tried to sleep ; but it was to no purpose ; — the old
crone must have had the quinsy, or something else ; and die
kept up such a wheezing and choking, that at last I sprang up,
and groped after her ; but she hobbled away like a goblin ; and
that was the last of her. As soon as the sun rose, I made the
best of my way back ; and here I am."

He never left us more, nor ever had a second fit.

^CHAP. u.] WILSON GIVES US THE CUT, 197

CHAPTER LI.

"Wilson giyes us the Cut — Departure for Imeeo.

About three weeks after the Julia's sailing, our condition- '
hegsn to be a little precarious. We were without any regular
supply of food ; the ai'rival of ships was growing less frequent ;
and, what was worse yet, all the natives but good old Captain
Bob began to tire of us. Nor was this to be wondered at ; we
^ere obliged to live upon their benevolence, when they had
little enough for themselves. Besides, we were sometimes driven
to acts of marauding : such as kidnapping pigs, and cooking
them in the groves ; at which their proprietors were by no
means pleased.

In this state of affairs, we determined to march off to the consul
in a body ; and, as he had brought us to these straits, demand
an 4idequate maintenance.

On the point of starting. Captain Bob's men raised the most
outrageous cries, and tried to prevent us. Though hitherto we
had strolled about wherever we pleased, this grand conjunction
of our whole force upon one particular expedition, seemed to
alarm them. But we assured them that we were not going to
assault the village ; and so, after a good deal of gibberish, they
permitted us to leave.

We went straight to the Pritchard residence, where the con-
sul dwelt. This house — to which I have before referred — is
quite commodious. It has a wide verandah, glazed windows^
and other appurtenances of a civilized mansion. Upon the lawn
in front are palm-trees standing erect here and there, like senti-
nels. The Consular Office, a small building by itself, is inclosed
by the same picket which fences in the lawn.

We found the office closed; but in the verandah of the
dweUing'bouse was a lady performing a toiiaoT\«\ Q^<2t%JCv>rcL <otl
tie head of a prim-looking, elderly EiUTO^peaxi/v^ ^Vy«,^\ssX&

198 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. IcEMSf.'U.

cravat ; — the most domestic little scene I had witnessed since
leaving home. Bent upon an interview with Wilson, the sailors
now deputed the doctor to step forward as a polite inquirer
after his health.

The pair stared very hard as he advanced ; but no ways dis-
concerted, he saluted them gravely, and inquired for the consul

Upon being informed that he had gone down to the beacli,
we proceeded in that direction ; and soon met a native, who told
us that, apprised of our vicinity, Wilson was keeping out of the
way. We resolved to meet him ; and passing through the vil-
lage, he suddenly came walking towards us, having apparently
made up his mind that any attempt to elude us would be useless.

" What do you want of me, you rascals ?" he cried — a greet-
ing which provoked a retort in no measured terms. At this
juncture, the natives began to crowd roimd, and several fo-
reigners strolled along. Caught in the very act of speaking to
such disreputable acquaintances, Wilson now fidgeted, and
moved rapidly towards his office ; the men following. Turn-
ing upon them incensed, he bade them be off — he would have
nothing more to say to us ; and then, hurriedly addressing
Captain Bob in Tahitian, he hastened on, and never stopped
till the postern of Pritchard's wicket was closed behind hincL

Our good old keeper was now highly excited, bustling about
in his huge petticoats, and conjuring us to return to the Cak-
booza. After a little debate, we -acquiesced.

This interview was decisive. Sensible that none of the
charges brought against us would stand, yet imwilling formally
to withdraw them, the consul now wished to get rid of us alto-
gether ; but without being suspected of encouraging our escape.
Thus only could we account for his conduct.

Some of the pany, however, with a devotion to principle
truly heroic, swore they would never leave him, happen what
might. For my own part, I' began to long for a change; and
as there seemed to be no getting away in a ship, I resolved to
hit upon some other expedient. But first, I cast about for a
comrade ; and of course the long doctor was chosen. We at
once laid our heads together •, and for the present, resolved to
disclose nothing to the rest.
A few days previous, I had M\eiv 'm n^VCsi ^ itwr^^icJlXv^^fck

CHAP, ij.] ^ WILSON GIVES US THE CUT. 199

lads, twins, who, originailj deserting their ship at Fanning's
Island (an uninhabited spot, but exceedingly prolific in fruit of
all kinds), had, after a long residence there, roved about among
the Society group. They were last from Imeeo — the island
immediately adjoining — where they had been in the employ of
two foreigners^ who had recently started a plantation there.
These persons, they said, had charged them to send over from
Papeetee, if they could, two white men for field-labourers.

Now, all but the prospect of digging and delving, suited us
exactly ; but the opportunity for leaving the island was not to
be slighted ; and so we held ourselves in readiness to return
with the planters ; who, in a day or two, were expected to visit
Papeetee in their boat.

At the interview which ensued, we were introduced to them
as Peter and Paul ; and they agreed to give Peter and Paul
fifteen silver dollars a month, promising something more, should
we remain, with them permanently. What they wanted, was
men who would stay. To elude the natives — many of whom
not exactly understanding our relations with the consul, might
arrest us, were they to see us departing — the coming midnight
was appointed for that purpose.

When the hour drew nigh, we disclosed our intention to the
rest. Some upbraided us for deserting them ; others applauded,
and said, that on the first opportunity they would follow our
example. At last, we bade them farewell. And there would
now be a serene sadness in thinking over the scene — since we
never saw them again — had not all been dashed by M*Gee's
picking the doctor's pocket of a jackknife, in the very act of
embracing him.

We stole down to the beach, where, under the shadow of a
grove, the boat was waiting. After some delay, we shipped
the oars, and pulling outside of the reef, set the sail ; and with
a fair wind, glided away for Imeeo.

It was a pleasant trip. The moon was up — the air, warm —
the waves, musical — and all above was the tropical night, one
purple vault hung round with soft, trembling stars.

The channel is some fi\Q leagues wide. OIiOTift\v«sA^^^^v
liare the three great peaks of Tahiti \ot^i[v^ \\> Q^^'c x^w.^^^'^Jl

o 4

200 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap.u.

mountains and vallejs ; and on the other, the equally romantic
elevations of Imeeo, high above which a lone peak, called by
our companions, *' the Marling-spike," shot up its verdant spire.

The planters were quite sociable. Thej had been sea-faring
men, and this, of course, was a bond between us. To strengthen
it, a flask of wine was produced, one of several which had beeo
procured in person from the French admiral's steward; for
whom the planters, when on a former visit to Papeetee, had
done a good turn, by introducing the amorous Frenchman to
the ladies ashore. Besides this, thej had a calabash filled with
wild boar's meat, baked yams, bread-fruit, and Tombez pota-
toes. Pipes and tobacco also were produced; and while re-
galing ourselves, plenty of stories were told about the neigh-
bouring islands.

At last we heard the roar of the Lneeo reef; and gliding
through a break, floated over the expanse within, which was
smooth as a young girl's brow, and beached the boat.

CHAP, m.} THE VALLEY OF MART AIR, 20t

CHAPTER Ln.

The Valley of Martair.

We went up through groves to an open space, where we hearct
voices, and a light was seen glimmering from out a bamboo
dwelling. It was the planters' retreat ; and in their absence^
several girls were keeping house, assisted by an old native, who,
wrapped up in tappa, lay. in the corner, smoking.

A hasty meal was prepared, and after it we essayed a nap ^
but, alas I a plague, little anticipated, prevented. Unknown
in Tahiti, the musquitoes here fairly eddied round us. But
more of them anon.

We were up betimes, and strolled out to view the country.
We were in the valley of Martair ; shut in, on both sides, by
lofty hills. Here and there were steep cliffs, gay with flower^
ing shrubs, or hung with pendulous vines, swinging blossoms
in the air. Of considerable width at the sea, the vale contracts
as it runs inland ; terminating, at the distance of several miles^
in a range of the most grotesque elevations, which seem em-
battled with turrets and towers, grown over with verdure, and
waving with trees. The valley itself is a wilderness of wood-
land ; with links of streams flashing through, and narrow path*
ways, fairly tunnelled through masses of foliage.

All alone, in this wild place, was the abode of the planters $
the only one back from the beach — their sole neighbours, the
few fishermen and their families, dwelling in a small grove of
cocoa-nut trees, whose roots were washed by the sea.

The cleared tract which they occupied comprised some
thirty acres, level as a prairie, part of which was under cultiva-
tion ; the whole being fenced in by a stout palisade of trunks
and boughs of trees staked firmly in the ground. This waa
necessary, as a defence against the wild caXXV^ «eA \tfi^ ^-s^**
ranniog the islands

902 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEA& [ghap.ul

Thus far, Tombez potatoes* were the principal crop raised;
a ready sale for them being obtained among the shipping
touching at Papeetee. There was a small patch of the taro,
or Indian turnip, also ; another of yams ; and, in one comer, a
thrifty growth of the sugar-cane, just ripening.

On the side of the inclosure next the sea was the house ;
newly built of bamboos, in the native style. The furniture
consisted of a couple of sea-chestis, an old box, a few cooking
utensils, and agricultural tools ; together with three fowling-
pieces, hanging from a rafter ; and two enormous hammocks,
swinging in opposite corners, and composed of dried bullocks'
hides, stretched out with poles.

The whole plantation was shut in by a dense forest; sad,
close by the house, a dwarfed ** Aoa," or species of banian-
tree, had purposely been left twisting over the palisade, in the
inost grotesque manner, and thus made a pleasant shade, l^e
{^ranches of this curious tree afforded low perches, upon which
the natives frequently squatted, after the fashion of their race,
and sm(^ed and gossiped by the hour.

We had a good breakfast of fish — speared by the natives,
before sunrise^ on the reef — pudding of Indian turnip, fried
bananas, and roasted bread-fruit.

, During the repast, our new friends "were quite sociable and
conamunicative. It seems that, like nearly all uneducated
foreigners residing in Polynesia, they had, some time previous,
deserted from a ship ; and, having heard a good deal about the
pioney to be made by raising supplies for whaling- vessels, they
determined upon embarking in the business. Strolling about,
with this intention, they at last came to Martair ; and, thinking
the soil would suit, set themselves to work. They b^an, by
finding out the owner of the particular spot coveted, and then
making a " tayo " of him.

He turned out to be Tonoi, the chief of the fishermen, who,
one day, when exhilarated with brandy, tore his meagre tappa
from his loins, and gave me to know that he was allied by blood
?vith Pomaree herself; and that his mother came from the

* Perhaps the finest sweet potato ia the vorld. It derives its name

i5vin a district of Peru, near Cape BVaaeo, ^ct^ iwova^Wife \» Ss& ^BK wrth;

where, also, it is extensively cultVvated-. X\xe TooX*\*x«r5^Kc^\ t

^ big as a good-sized melon.

COAP. UL] THE VALLEY OP MARTAIB. 2«S

illastrious race of pontiffs who, in old times, swayed their
bamboo crosier over all the pagans of Imeeo. A regal and
right reverend lineage ! But at the time I speak of, the dusky
noble was in " decayed circumstances," and therefore by no
means imwilling to alienate a few useless acres. As an equiva-
lent, he received from the strangers two or three rheumatic old
muskets, several red woollen shirts, and a promise to be pro-
vided for in his old age : he was always to find a home with the
planters.

Desirous of Kving on the cozy footing of a father-in-law, he
frankly offered his two daughters for wives ; but, as such, they
were politely declined ; the adventurers, though not averse to
courting, being unwilling to entangle themselves in a matrimo-
nial alliance, however splendid in point of family.

Tonoi's men, the fishermen of the grove, were a sad set.
'Secluded, in a great measure, from the ministrations of the mis-
sionaries, they gave themselves up to all manner of lazy wicked-
ness. Strolling among the trees of a morning, you came upon
them napping on the shady side of a canoe hauled up among
the bushes ; lying under a tree smoking ; or, more frequently
BtiU, gambling with pebbles ; though, a little tobacco excepted,
what they gambled for at their outlandish games, it would be
hard to tell. Other idle diversions they had also, in which they
seemed to take great delight. As for fishing, it employed but
a small part of their time. Upon the whole, they were a merry,
indigent, godless race.

Tonoi, the old sinner, leaning against the fallen trunk of a
cocoa-nut tree, invariably squandered his mornings at pebbles ;
a gray-headed rook of a native regularly plucking him of every
t)ther stick of tobacco obtained from his friends, the planters.
Toward afternoon, he strolled back to their abode ; where he
tarried till the next morning, smoking and snoozing, and, at
times, prating about the hapless fortunes of the House of Tonoi.
But, like any other easy-going old dotard, he seemed for the
most part perfectly content with cheerful board and lodging.

On the whole, the valley of Martair was the quietest place
imaginable. Could the musquitoes be induced to emigrate, one
might spend the month of August there c\]a\\.^ ^\e,«ja»5i^'^» "^-^
Hub was not the case with the luckless liOii%G\va^V «xATS!r3^«S5.\
&8 will presently be seen.

SM ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, uel

CHAPTER Lin.

Farming in Polynesia.

The planters were both whole-souled fellows; but, in other
respects, as unlike as possible.

One was a tall, robust Yankee, bom in the backwoods of
Maine, sallow, and with a long face; — the other was a short
little Cockney, who had first clapped his eyes on the Monument

The voice of Zeke, the Yankee, had a twang like a cracked
Tiol ; and Shorty (as his comrade called him) clipped the aspi-
rate from every word beginning with one. The latter, though
not the tallest man in the world, was a good-looking young fel-
low, of twenty-five. His cheeks were dyed with the fine Saxon
red, burned deeper from his roving life ; his blue eye opened
well, and a profusion of fair hair curled over a well-shaped head^

But Zeke was no beauty. A strong, ugly man, he was weU
adapted for manual labour ; and that was alL His eyes were
made to see with, and not for ogling. Compared with the
Cockney, he was grave, and rather taciturn ; but there was a
deal of good old humour bottled up in him, after all. For the
rest, he was frank, good-hearted, shrewd, and resolute; and,
like Shorty, quite illiterate.

Though a curious conjunction, the pair got along together
famously. But as no two men were ever united in any enter*
prise, without one getting the upper hand of the other ; so, in
most matters, Zeke had his own way. Shorty, too, had imbibed
from him a spirit of invincible industry ; and Heaven only knows
what ideas of making a fortune on their plantation.

We were much concerned at this ; for the prospect of their
setting us in their own persons an example of downright hard
labour, was any thing but agreeable. But it was now too late
to repent what we had done.
The £rst day— thank ioxlnne — \ve ^li^^wiHki^Ti!!,. 'Bsrvm^

L
2

^AP. iju.] FARMING IN POLYNESIA. 205

treated us as guests thus far, thej no doubt thought it would be
wanting in delicacy to set us to work before the complimenta
of the occasion were well oven The next morning, however,
they both looked business-like, and we were put to.

" Wall, b'ys," (boys) said Zeke, knocking the ashes out of
his pipe, after breakfast — " we must get at it. Shorty, give
Peter there (the doctor), the big hoe, and Paul the other, and
let's be off.'* Going to a comer, Shorty brought forth three of
the implements ; and distributing them impartially, trudged on
after his partner, who took the lead with something in the shape
of an axe»

For a moment left alone in the house, we looked at each
other, quaking. We were each equipped with a great clumsy
piece of a tree^ armed at one end with a heavy, flat mass of iron.
The cutlery part — especially adapted to a primitive soil —
was an importation from Sydney ; the handles must have been
of domestic manufacture. " Hoes*', — so called — we had heard
of, and seen ; but they were harmless^ in comparison with the
tools in our hands.

*• What'^3 to be done with them ?" inquired I of Peter*
" Lift them up and down," he replied ; " or put them in mo-
tion some way or other. Paul, we are in a scrape — but, hark I
they are calling ;" and shouldering the hoes, off we marched.

Our destination was the farther side of the plantation, where
the ground, cleared in part, had not yet been broken up ; but
they were now setting about it. Upon halting, I asked why a
plough was not used : some of the young wild steers might be
caught, and trained for draught.

Zeke replied, that, for such a purpose, no cattle, to his.
knowledge, had ever been used in any part of Polynesia. Aa
for the soil of Martair, so obstructed was it with roots, cross-
ing and recrossing each other at all points, that no kind of a
plough could be used to advantage. The heavy Sydney hoea
were the only thing for such land.

Our work was now before us ; but, previous to commencing
operations, I endeavoured to engage the Yankee in a little
further friendly chat, concerning the nature of virgin soils in
general, and that of the valley of Martair m -^^xVvsv^^* %^
masterljr a stratagem made Long G\loaX\)I\^\.^x^^v^\ ^jCL'^Vst^

iO& ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [cHAP-un.

stood bj ready to join in. But what our firiend had to say
about agriculture, all referred to the particular part of h\s
plantation upon which we stood; and having commumcated
enough on this head, to enable us to set to work to the best
advantage, he fell to himself; and Shorty, who had been look-
ing on, followed suit.

The surface, here and there, presented closely amputated
branches of what had once been a dense thicket. They
seemed purposely left projecting, as if to furnish a handle,
whereby to drag out the roots beneath. Aflter loosening the
hard soil, by dint of much thumping and pounding, the Ysmkee
jerked one of the roots, this way and that, twisting it roand
and round, and then tugging at it horizontally.

''Come! lend us a hand!" he cried, at last; and, rmraing
up, we all four strained away in concert. The tough obstacle
convulsed the surface with throes and spasms ; but stuck fast^
notwithstanding.

"Dumn it!*' cried Zeke, " we'll have to get a rope ; run to
the house, Shorty, and fetch one."

The end of this being attached, we took plenty of room, and
strained away once more.

** Give us a song. Shorty,*' said the doctor, who was rather
sociable, on a short acquaintance. Where the work to be
accomplished is any way difficult, this mode of enlivening toil
is quite efficacious among sailors. So, willing to make every
thing as cheerful as possible, Shorty struck up, "Were you
ever in Dumbarton?" a marvellously inspiring, but somewhat
indecorous windlass chorus.

At last^ the Yankee cast a damper on his enthusiasm, by
exclaiming, in a pet, " Oh ! dumn your singing ! keep quiet,
and pull away!" This we now did, in the most uninteresting
silence ; until, with a jerk that made every elbow hum, the
root dragged out ; and, most inelegantly, we all landed upon
the ground. The doctor, quite exhausted, stayed there ; and,
deluded into believing that, after so doughty a performance, we
would be allowed a cessation of toil, took off his hat, and
fanned himself.

'^Bayther a hard customer, that, Peter," observed the
Yankee, going up to him: ""but y!^uo\3L"afci»t wi^ QBL^<Bss^\ii

CBAP. un.] FARMING IN POLYNESIA^ 207

lumg back ; for, Fm dumned if they haint got to come out,
whether or na Hurrah ! let's get at it agin !^

"Mercy!" ejaculated the doctor, rising slowly, and turning
round. '* Hell be the death of us ! "

Falling to with our hoee again, we worked singly, or together,
as occasion required, until " Nooning Time" came.

The period, so called by the planters, embraced about three
hours in the middle of the day ; during which it was so exces-
siyely hot, in this still brooding valley, shut out from the
Trades, and only open toward the leeward side of the island,
that labour in the sun was out of the question. To use a hyper-
bolical phrase of Shorty's, " It was hot enough to melt the nose
h'off a brass monkey."

Betuming to the house, Shorty, assisted by old Tonoi,
cooked the dinner; and, after we had all partaken thereof,
both the Cockney and Zeke threw themselves into one of the
hammocks, inviting us to occupy the other. Thinking it no
bad idea, we did so ; and, after skirmishing with the musqui-
toes, managed to fall" into a doze. As for the planters, more
accustomed to " Nooning," they, at once, presented a nuptial
back to each other ; and were soon snoring away at a great
rate. Tonoi snoozed on a mat in one corner.

At last, we were roused by Zeke's crying out, " Up ! b'ys ;
up ! rise, and shine ; time to get at it agin !"

Looking at the doctor, I perceived very plainly that he had
decided upon something.

In a languid voice, he told Zeke, that he was not very well :
indeed, that he had not been himself for some time past ;
though a little rest, no doubt, would recruit him. The Yankee,
thinking from this that our valuable services might be lost to
him altogether, were he too hard upon us at the outset, at once
begged us both to consult our own feelings, and not exert our-
selves for the present, unless we felt like it. Then — without
recognizing the fact, that my comrade claimed to be actually
unwell — he simply suggested, that, since he was so tired, he
had better, perhaps, swing in his hammock for the rest of the
day. K agreeable, however, I myself might accompany him
upon a little bullock hunting excursion, iii th<^ Tvfe\^D3a<^>MrffiL%
hiUs. In this proposition, I gladly «jcq]a\es»CL^^ \ \3!w5vx^^^\fc'^'i

208 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, [chap.ub.

'who was a great sportsman, put on a long face. The muskets
and ammunition were forthwith got down from overhead ; and,
every thing being then ready, Zeke cried out, " Tonoi ! come;
aramai ! (get up) we want you for pilot. Shorty, my lad, look
arter things, you know ; and, if you likes, why, there's them
roots in the field yonder."

Having thus arranged his domestic affairs to please himself,
though little to Shorty's satisfaction I thought, he slung his
powder-horn over his shoulder, and we started. Tonoi was
at once sent on in advance ; and, leaving the plantation, he
struck into a path which led toward the mountains.

After hurrying through the thickets for some time, we came
out into the sunlight, in an open glade, just under the shadow
of the hills. Here, Zeke pointed aloft to a beetling crag, far
distant ; where a bullock, with horns thrown back, stood like
a statue.

i^MAP. UY.] WILD CATTLE IN POLYNESIA. 309

CHAPTER LIV.

Some aeeonnt of the Wild Cattle in Polynesisu

Bbfobb we proceed further, a word or two concerning these
wild cattle, and the way they came on the island.

Some fifty years ago, Vancouver left several bullocks, sheep,
and goats, at Tarioos places in the Society group. He in-
structed the natives to look after the animals carefully ; and by
no means to slaughter any, until a considerable stock had accu-
mulated.

The sheep must have died off; for I never saw a solitary
fleece in any part of Polynesia. The pair left were an ill as-
sarted couple, perhaps ; separated in disgust, and died without
issue.

As for the goats, occasionally you come across a black,
misanthropic ram, nibbling the scant herbage of some height
inaccessible to man, in preference to the sweet grasses of the
valley below. The goats are not very numerous.

The bullocks, coming of a prolific ancestry, are a hearty set,
racing over the island of Imeeo in considerable numbers; though
in Tahiti but few of them are seen. At the former place, the
original pair must have scampered off to the interior, since it is
liow so thickly populated by their wild progeny. The herds
*%ipe the private property of Queen Pomaree ; from whom the
'planters had obtained permission to shoot for their own use as
many as they pleased.

The natives stand in great awe of these cattle ; and, for this
reason, are excessively timid in crossing the island, preferring
rather to sail round to an opposite village in their canoes.

Tonoi abounded in bullock stories ; most of which, by the
by, had a spice of the marvellous. The following is one of
these.

Qace upoa a time, Ae jff»g gging Qy^j ftft\MlSl\a^\^^\i^^'Qs^^^

210 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, [ckap.ut.

— now no more — when a great bull came bellowing out of a
wood, and both took to their heels. The old chief sprang into
a tree ; his companion, fljing in an opposite direction^ was par-
sued, and in the very act of reaching up to a bough, trampled
under foot. The unhappy man was then gored — tossed in the
air — and finally run away with on the bull's horns. More dead
than alive, Tonoi waited till all was over, and then made the
best of his way home. The neighbours, armed with two or
three muskets, at once started to recover, if possible, his unfor-
tunate brother's remains. At nightfall, they returned without
discovering any trace of him ; but the next morning, Tonoi
himself caught a glimpse of a bullock, marching across the
mountain's brow, with a long dark object borne aloft on hi»
horns.

Having referred to Vancouver's attempts to colonize the
islands with useful quadrupeds, we may as well say something
concerning his success upon Hawaii, one of the largest islands
in the whole Polynesian Archipelago ; and which gives the na-
tive name to the well known cluster named by Cook in honour
of Lord Sandwich.

Hawaii is some one hundred leagues in circuit, and covers an
area of over four thousand square miles. Until within a few
years past, its interior was almost unknown, even to the in-
habitants themselves, who, for ages, had been prevented from
wandering thither, by certain strange superstitions. Pelee, the
.terrific goddess of the volcanoes Mouna Roa and Mouna Kea*,
was supposed to guard all the passes to the extensive Valleys
lying round their base. There are legends of her having chased
with streams of fire several impious adventurers. Near Hilo^
a jet-black cliff is shown, with the vitreous torrent apparently
pouring over into the sea ; just as it cooled after one of these
supernatural eruptions.

To these inland valleys, and the adjoining hillsides, which
are clothed in the most luxuriant vegetation, Vancouver's bul-

* Perhaps the most remarkable volcanoes in the world. For very in-
teresting accounts of three adventurous expeditions to their sommiti
(seventeen thousand feet above the level of the sea), see Lord Byron's
Vofage of H. B. M. Ship Blonde \ 1£\\\%^% 3o\xTti^ est «. VUit to the Sand-
wicb Islands -, and Wilkie's ]^9XTa.ti\'(e oi ^« \S. ^. ^^^fv!D^^^Yij£^>s!A.

CHAP.uv.] WILD CATTLE IN POLYNESIA. 211

locks soon wandered ; and, unmolested for a long period, multi-
plied in vast herds.

Some twelve or fifteen years ago, the natives, losing sight of
their superstitions, and learning the value of the hides in com-
merce, began hunting the creatures that wore them ; but being
very fearful and awkward in a business so novel, their success
was small ; and it was not until the arrival of a party of Spanish
hunters, men regularly trained to their calling upon the plains
of California, that the work of slaughter was fairly begun.

The Spaniards were showy fellows, tricked out in gay blan-
kets, leggins worked with porcupine quills, and jingling spurs.
Mounted upon trained Indian mares, these heroes pursued their
prey up to the very base of the burning mountains ; making the
profoundest solitudes ring with their shouts, and flinging the
lasso under the very nose of the vixen goddess Pelee, Hilo, a
village upon the coast, was their place of resort ; and thither
flocked roving whites from all the islands of the group. As
pupils of the dashing Spaniards, many of these dissipated fel-
lows, quaffing too freely of the stirrup-cup, and riding headlong
after the herds, when they reeled in the saddle, were unhorsed
and killed.

This was about the year 1835, when the present king, Tam-
mahamaha III., was a lad. With royal impudence, laying claim
to the sole property of the cattle, he was delighted with the
idea of receiving one of every two silver dollars paid down for
their hides ; so, wit^E no thought for the future, the work of ex-
termination went madly on. In three years' time, eighteen
thousand bullocks were slain, almost entirely upon the single
island of Hawaii.

The herds being thus nearly destroyed, the sagacious young
prince imposed a rigorous " taboo ** upon the few surviving
cattle, which was to remain in force for ten years. During this
period — not yet expired — all hunting is forbidden, unless di-
rectly authorized by the king.

The massacre of the cattle extended to the hapless goats. In
one year, three thousand of their skins were sold to the merchants
of Honolulu, fetching a qtuzrtilic^ or a shilling sterling, a-piece.

After this digression^ it is time to run on ^i\A\ H^xsk %xA*^^
Yankee.

T 2

212 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAa .[ckap.lt.

CHAPTER LV.
A Hunting Ramble irith Zeke.

At the foot of the mountain, a steep path went up among rocks
and clefts, mantled with verdure. Here and there were green
gulfs, down which it made one giddy to peep. At last we
gained an overhanging, wooded shelf of land which crowned
the heights ; and along this, the path, well shaded, ran like a
gallery.

In every direction, the scenery was enchanting. There was
a low, rustling breeze ; and below, in the vale, the leaves were
quivering ; the sea lay, blue and serene, in the distance ; and
inland the surface swelled up, ridge after ridge, and peak upon
peak, all bathed in the Indian haze of the tropics, and dreamy
to look upon. Still valleys, leagues away, reposed in the deep
shadows of the mountains; and here and there, waterfalls
lifted up their voices in the solitude. High above all, and
central, the " Marling-spike " lifted its finger. Upon the hill-
sides, small groups of bullocks were seen ; some quietly brows-
Jug ; others slowly winding into the valleys.

We went on, directing our course for a slope of the hills, a
mile or two further, where the nearest bullocks were seen.

We were cautious in keeping to windward of them ; their
sense of smell and hearing being, like those of all wild crea-
tures, exceedingly acute.

As there w^ no knowing that we might not surprise some
other kind of game in the coverts through which we were pass-
ing, we crept along warily.

The wild hogs of the island are uncommonly fierce ; and as

they often attack the natives, I could not help following Tonoi's

example of once in a while peeping in under the foliage. Fre-

quent retrospective glanees, ^o^ served to assure me that our

retreat was not cut off.

CBAP. LT.] A HUNTIKG RAMBLE WITH ZEKE. 218

As we roanded a clump of bashes, a noise behind them, like
the crackling c^ dry branches, broke the stillness. In an in-
stant, Tonoi's hand was on a bough, ready for a spring, and
Zeke's finger touched the trigger of his piece. Again ^e still->
ness was broken ; and thinking it high time to get ready, I
brought my mnsket to my should.

^' Look sharp !" cried the Yankee ; and dropping on one kne^
he brushed the twigs aside. Presently, off went his piece ; and
with a wild snort, a black, bristling boar — his cherry red lip
curled up by two glittering tusks — dashed, unharmed, across
the path, and crashed through the opposite thicket I saluted
him with a charge as he disappeared; but not the slightest
notice was taken of the cirility.

By this time, Tonoi, the illustrious descendant of the Bishops
of Lneeo> was twenty feet from the ground. " Aramai ! com6
down, you old fool !" cried the Yankee ; " the pesky critter's on
fother side of the island afore this.

"I rayther guess," he continued, as we began reloading,
^that weVe spoiled sport by firing at that ere 'tamal hog.
Them bullocks heard the racket, and is fiinging their taild
about now on the keen jump. Quick, Paul, and let's climb that
rodk yonder, and see if so be there's any in sight."

But none were to be seen, except at such a distance that
they looked like ants.

As evening was now at hand, my companion proposed our
returning home forthwith ; and then, after a sound night's rest,
starting in the morning upon a good day's hunt with the whole
force of the plantation.

Following another path, in descending into the valley, we
passed through some nobly wooded land on the face of the
mountain.

One variety of tree particularly attracted my attention. The
dark mossy stem, over seventy feet high, was perfectly branch-
less for many feet above the ground, when it shot out in broad
boughs laden with lustrous leaves of the deepest green. And
all round the lower part of the trunk, thin, slab-like butti*esses
of bark, perfectly smooth, and radiating from a common centre,
projected along the ground for at least two yards. Eromb^low^
tiese natural props tapered upward untW gc^^xsitJ^^ W^xs.^^

p 3

214 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. Echap.iv.

with the trunk itself. There were signs of the wild cattle
having sheltered themselves behind them. Zeke called this the
canoe-tree ; as in old times it supplied the navies of the kmgs
of Tahiti. For canoe-building, the wood is still used. Being
extremely dense, and impervious to worms, it is very durable.

Emerging from the forest, when half-way down the hillside,
we came upon an open space, covered with fei*ns and grtiss,
over- which a few lonely trees were casting long shadows in
the setting sim. Here, a piece of ground some hundred feet
square, covered with weeds and brambles, and sounding hollow
to the tread, was inclosed by a ruinous wall of stones. Tonoi
said it was an almost forgotten burial-place, of great antiquity,
where no one had been interred since the islanders had been
Christians. Sealed up in dry, deep vauk^ many a dead heathen
was lying here.

Curious to prove the old man's statement, I was anxious to
get a peep at the catacombs ; but, hermetically overgrown with
vegetation as they were, no aperture was visible.

Before gaining the level of the valley, we passed by the site
of a village, near a watercourse, long since deserted. There
was nothing but stone walls, and rude dismantled foundations
of houses, constructed of the same materiaL Large trees and
brushwood were growing rankly among them.

I asked Tonoi how long it was since any one had lived here.
" Me, tammaree (boy) — plenty kannaker (men) Martair," he
replied. " Now, only i^oot pehe kannaka (fishermen) left — me
born here.**

Going down the valley, vegetation of every kind presented a
different aspect from that of the high land.

Chief among the trees of the plain on this island, is the ^^AH^^
large and lofty, with a massive trunk, and broad, laurel-shaped
leaves. The wood is splendid. In Tahiti, I was shown a
narrow, polished plank, fit to make a cabinet for a king. Taken
from the heart of the tree, it was of a deep, rich scarlet, traced
with yellow veins, and in some places clouded with hazel.

In the same grove with the regal " Ati^^ you may see the
beautiful flowering ^^Hotoo;^ its pyramid of shining leaves
' diveraiBed with numberless smslV -wW^ ^slosaoms.

Planted with trees as tlie \«iX\fe^ \ft, ^JXxaa%\. ^ecawM^Bss^Vi^

CHAP.LY.} A HUNTING RAMBLE WITH ZEKE^ 315

entire length, I was astonished to observe so very few which
were useful to the natives : not one in a hundred was a cocoa-
nut or bread-£ruit tree.

But here Tonoi again enlightened me. In th^ sanguinary
religious hostilities which ensued upon the conversion to
Christianity of the first Pomaree, a war party from Tahiti
destroyed (by " girdling" the bark) entire groves of these it-
valuable trees. For some time afterward, they stood stark and
leafless in the sun ; sad monuments of the fate which befell the
inhabitants of the valley.

2U ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, m.

CHAPTER LVI.

Musquitoes.

The night following the hunting trip, Long Ghost and myself,
after a valiant defence, had to flj the house on account of tiie
musquitoes.

And here I cannot avoid relating a story, rife among the
natives, concerning the manner in which these insects were
introduced upon the island.

Some years previous, a whaling captain, touching at an ad-
joining bay, got into difficulty with its inhabitants, and at last
carried his complaint before one of the native tribunals ; but
receiving no satisfaction, and deeming himself aggrieved, he
resolved upon taking signal revenge. One night, he towed a
rotten old water-cask ashore, and left it in a neglected Taro
patch, where the ground was warm and moist. Hence the
musquitoes.

I tried my best to learn the name of this man : and hereby
do what I can to hand it down to posterity. It was Coleman
— Nathan Coleman. The ship belonged to Nantucket

When tormented by the musquitoes, I found much relief in
coupling the word " Coleman" with another of one syllable, and
pronouncing them together energetically.

The doctor suggested a walk to the beach, where there was
a long, low shed tumbling to pieces, but open lengthwise to a
current of air which he thought might keep off the musquitoes.
So thither we went.

The ruin partially sheltered a relic of times gone by, which,
a few days after, we examined with much curiosity. It was an
old war-canoe, crumbling to dust. Being supported by the
same rude blocks upon which, apparently, it had years before
been hollowed out, in all probability it had never been afloat.

Outside, it seemed originaWy slaMaa^ ot ^ ^^^tl ^olour^ which,
here and there, was novr chan^e^ m\.o ^ ^m^^ y^ot^^ '^^^

Kfi.] MUSQUITOE& Sir

fTCfw termmated ui a high, blunt beak ; both sides were covered
with carving ; and upon the stem was something which Ixm^f
Ghost maintained to be the arms of the ro3ral House of P(»na-
ree. The device had an heraldic look, certainly — being two
sharks with the talons of hawks clawing a knot left projecting
from the wood.

The canoe was at least forty feet long, about two wide, and
fpur deep. The upper part — consisting of narrow planks laced
together with cords of ^sinnate— -had in many places fallen off,
and lay decaying upon the ground. Still, there were ample
accommodations left for sleeping; and in we sprang — the
doctor into the bow, and I into the stem. I soon fell asleep ;
but waking suddenly, cramped in every joint from my con-
strained posture, I thought, for an instant, that I must have
been prematurely screwed down in my coffin.

Presenting my compliments to Long Ghost, I asked how it
fared with him.

"Bad enough," he replied, as he tossed about in the out-
landish rubbish lying in the bottom of our couch. " Pah ! how
these old mats smell!"

As he continued talking in this exciting strain for some time,
I at last made no reply, having resumed certain mathematical
reveries to induce repose. But finding the multiplication-table
of no avail, I summoned up a grayish image of chaos in a sort
of sliding fluidity, and was just falling into a nap on the
strength of it, when I heard a solitary and distinct buzz. The
hour of my calamity was at hand. One blended hum, the
creature darted into the canoe like a small sword-fish ; and I
out of it.

Upon getting into the open air, to my surprise, there was
Long Ghost, fanning himself wildly with an old paddle. He
had just made a noiseless escape from a swarm, which had
attacked his own end of fhe canoe.

It was now proposed to try the water ; so a small fishing
canoe, hauled up near by, was quickly launched ; and paddling
a good distance off*, we dropped overboard the native contri-
vance for an anchor — a heavy stone, attached to a cable of
braided bark. At this part of the island) tbi^ e.Ti<^\£<^\Y[i^'si^^

218 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, [chap.ltl

was close to the shore, leavixig the water within smooth, and
extremely shallow.

It was a blessed thought ! We knew nothing till smirise»
when the motion of our aquatic cot awakened us. I looked up,
and beheld Zeke wading toward the shore^ and towing us after
him by the bark cable. Pointing to the reef, he told us we had
had a narrow escape.

It was true enough ; the water-sprites had rolled our atone
^ut of its noose, and we had floated away.

CHAP.LTH.] THE SECOND HUNT IN THE MOUNTAINS. 219

CHAPTER LVn.

The second Hunt in the Mountains.

Faib dawned, over the hills of Martair, the jocund morning of.
our hunt.

Every thing had been prepared for it overnight ; and, when
we arrived at the house, a good breakfast was spread by Shorty :
and old Tonoi was bustling about like an innkeeper. Several
of his men, also, were in attendance, to accompany us with
calabashes of food ; and, in case we met with any success, to
officiate as bearers of burdens, on our return.

Apprised, the evening previous, of the meditated sport, the
doctor had announced his willingness to take part therein.

Now, subsequent events made us regard this expedition as a
shrewd device of the Yankee's. Once get us off on a pleasure
trip, and with what face could we afterwards refuse to work ?
Besides, he enjoyed all the credit of giving us a holyday. Nor
did he omit assuring us, that, work or play, our wages were all
the while running on.

A dilapidated old musket of Tonoi's was borrowed for the
doctor. It was exceedingly short and heavy, with a clumsy
lock, which required a strong finger to pull the trigger. On
trying the piece, by firing at a mark, Long Ghost was satisfiad
that it could not fail of doing execution : the charge went one
way, and he the other.

Upon this, he endeavoured to negotiate an exchange of
muskets with Shorty ; but the Cockney was proof against his
blandishments ; at last he intrusted his weapon to one of the
natives to carry for him.

Marshalling our forces, we started for the head of the valley ;
near which, a path ascended to a range of high land, said to be
a favourite resort of the cattle.

Shortly after gaining the heights, a small li^td> ^m& ^^
off, was perceived entering a wood. 'We \i\afisA ^\i\^s^^%

sao ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, [cbap.ltil

dividing our party, went in after them, at four different points ;
each white man followed by several natives.

I soon found myself in a dense covert ; and, after lodung
round, was just emerging into a dear space, when I heard a
report, and a bullet knocked the bark from a tree near by. The
same instant, there was a trampling and crashing ; and five
bullocks, nearly abreast, broke into view across the opening,
and plunged right towards the spot where myself and three of
the islanders were standing.

They were small, black, vicious-looking creatures; wifli
short, sharp horns, red nostrils, and eyes like coals of fire. On
they came — their dark woolly heads hanging down.

By this time> my island backers were roosting among the
trees. Glancing round, for an instant, to discover a retreait in
case of emergency, I raised my piece^ when a vmce cried out,
from the wood, "Right between the 'oms, Paul! right between
the'oms!" Down went my barrel, in range with a small
white tuft on the forehead of the headmost one ; and, lettii^
him have it, I darted to one side. As I turned again, the
five bullocks shot by like a blast, making the air eddy in thdr
wake.

The Yankee now burst into view, and saluted them in fianL
Whereupon, the fierce little bull with the tufted forehead
flirted his long tail over his buttocks, kicked out with his
hind feet, and shot forward a full length. It was nothing but
a graze ; and in an instant they were out of sight, the thicket
into which they broke rocking overhead, and mariung their
progress.

The action over, the heavy artillery eame up, in the person
of the Long Doctor, with his blunderbuss.

" Where are they ? " he cried, out of breath.

^'Amile or two h'off, by this time,** replied the Codmej.
" Lord, Paul I you ought toVe sent an 'ail stone into that little
black 'un."

While excusing my want of skill as well as I could, Zeke,
rushing forward, suddenly exclaimed, "Creation I what aw
you 'bout there, Peter?"

Peter, incensed at our iU luck, on^L i^ww^tlY imputing it to
the coTvrardice of our native ausaiotve^ ^^^ \«rva^^a%\a&^«A

CSAP.I.TII.] THE SECOND HUNT IN THE MOXmTAINS. 221

to bear upon Ids trembling squire — the musket carrier — now
descending a tree.

Pulling trigger, the ballet went high over his head ; and hop*
ping to the ground, bellowing like a calf, the fellow ran away
as fast as his heels could carrj him. The rest followed us,
after this, with fear and trembling.

After forming our line of march anew, we went on for
several hours, without catching a glimpse of the game; the
reports of the muskets having been heard at a great distance.
At last, we mounted a craggy height, to obtain a wide view of
the countiy. From this place, we beheld three cattle, quietly
browsing in a green opening of a wood below ; the trees shut-
ting them in all round.

A general re-examination of the muskets now took place,
. followed by a hasty lunch from the calabashes : we then started.
As we descended the mountain-side, the cattle were in plain
sight, until we entered the forest, when we lost sight of them
for a moment ; but only to see them again, as we crept dose up
to the spot where they grazed.

They were a bull, a cow, and a calf. The cow was lying
down in the shade, by the edge of the wood; the calf sprawl-
ing out before her in the grass, licking her lips ; while old
Taurus himself stood close by, casting a paternal glance at this
domestic little scene, and conjugally elevating his nose in the
air.

"Now, then," said Zeke, in a whisper, "lefs take the poor
creeturs, while they are huddled together. Crawl along, b'ys ;
crawl along. Fire together, mind; and not till I say the
word."

We crept up to the very edge of the open ground, and knelt
behind a clump of bushes, resting our levelled barrels among
the branches. The slight rustling was heard. Taurus turned
round, dropped his head to the ground, and sent forth a low,
sullen bellow; then snuffed the air. The cow rose on her
fore knees, pitched forward alarmedly, and stood upon her
legs; while the calf, with ears pricked, got right underneath
her. All three were now grouped, and, in an instant, would
be off.

"I take the buU," cried our leader •, *^ &ce\''

222 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEA& [chap.lvh.

The calf fell like a clod ; its dam uttered a cry, and thrust
her head into the thicket ; but she turned, and came moaning
up to the lifeless calf, going round and round it, snuAng fiercely
with her bleeding nostrils. A crashing in the wood, and a loud
roar, announced the flying bulL

Soon, another shot was fired, and the cow felL Leaving
some of the natives to look after the dead cattle, the rest of us
hurried on after the bull ; his dreadful bellowings guiding us to
the spot where he lay. Wounded in the shoulder, in his fright
and agony he had bounded into the wood ; but when we came
up to him, he had sunk to the earth in a green hollow, thrusting
his black muzzle into a pool of his own blood, and tossing it
over his hide in clots.

The Yankee brought his piece to a rest ; and, the next instant,
the wild brute sprang into the air, and with his fore legs crouch-
ing imder him, fell dead.

Our island friends were now in high spirits ; all courage and
alacrity. Old Tonoi thought nothing of taking poor Taurus
himself by the horns, and peering into his glazed eyes.

Our ship knives were at once in request ; and, skinning tbe
cattle, we hung them high up by cords of bark from the boughs
of a tree. Withdrawing into a covert, we there waited for the
wild hogs ; which, according to Zeke, would soon make their
appearance, lured by the smell of blood. Presently, we heard
them coming, in two or three different directions; and, in a
moment, they were tearing the offal to pieces.

As only one shot at these creatures could be relied on, we
intended firing simultaneously ; but, somehow^ or other, the
doctor's piece went off by itself, and one of the hogs dropped.
The others then breaking into the thicket, the rest of us sprang
after them, resolved to have another shot at all hazards.

The Cockney darted among some bushes ; and, a few moments
after, we heard the report of his musket, followed by a quick
cry. On running up, we saw our comrade doing battle with a
young devil of a boar, as black as night, whose snout had been
partly torn away. Firing when the game was in full career,
and coming directly toward him. Shorty had been assailed by
tbe enraged brute; it was now eTMnchiu^ the breech of the
musket, with which lie liad ttied^o dvj\> \\.% ^VQ't^:^ V^^tv^W^

CHAP.I.TO.] THE SECOND HUNT IN THE MOUNTAINS. 223

to the barrel, and fingering his waist for a knife. Being in
advance of the others, I clapped my gun to the boar's head, and
so put an end to the contest.

Evening now coming on, we set to work loading our car-
riers. The cattle were so small, that a stout native could walk
off with an entire quarter; brushing through thickets, and
descending rocks without an apparent effort : though, to tell
the truth, no white man present could have done the thing with
any ease. As for the wild hogs, none of the islanders could
be induced to carry Shorty's ; some invincible superstition
being connected with its black colour. We were, therefore,
obliged to leave it. The other, a spotted one, being slung by
green thongs to a pole, was marched off with by two young
natives.

With our bearers of burdens ahead, we then commenced our
return. down the valley. Half-way home, darkness overtook us
in the woods ; and torches became necessary. We stopped, and
made them of dry palm branches ; and then, sending two lads on
in advance, for the purpose of gathering fuel to feed the fLam-
beauz, we continued our journey.

It was a wild sight. The torches, waved aloft, flashed through
the forest ; and, where the ground admitted, the islanders went
along on a brisk trot, notwithstanding they bent forward under
their loads. Their naked backs were sttuned with blood ; and
occasionally, running by each other, they raised wild cries>
which startled the hillsides.

S24 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [cOAPiiMn.

CHAPTER LVm.

The HontiDg-feast ; and a Visit to Afrehitoo.

Two bullocks and a boar ! No bad trophies of our da/s sport
-So by torchlight we inarched into the plantation, the wild hog
xocking from its pole, and the doctor singing an old hunting*
song — Tally-ho ! the chorus of which swelled high above the
jells of the natives.

We resolved to make a night of it. Kindling a great fire just
-outside the dwelling, and hanging one of the heifer's quarters
from a limb of the banian-tree, every one was at liberty to cut
and broil for himself. Baskets of roasted bread-fruit, and plaitj
of taro pudding ; bunches of bananas and young cocoa-nuts had
also been provided by the natives against our return.

The £re burned bravely, keeping off the musquitoes, and
making every man's face glow like a beaker of Port The meat
had the true wild-game flavour, not at all impaired by our famous
•appetites, and a couple of flasks of white brandy, which Zeke,
producing from his secret store, circulated freely.

The^e was no end to my long comrade's spirits. After telling
his stories, and singing his songs, he sprang to his feet, clasped
a young damsel of the grove round the waist^ and waltzed over
the grass with her. But there's no telling all the pranks he
played that night. The natives, who delight in a wag, empha-
tically pronounced him " maitai."

It was long after midnight ere we broke up ; but when the
rest had retired, Zeke, with the true thrift of a Yankee, salted
down what was left of the meat.

The next day was Sunday ; and, at my request, Shorty ac-
companied me to Afrehitoo — a neighbouring bay, and the seat
of a mission, almost directly opposite Papeetee. In Afrehitoo
is a large church and school-house, both quite dilapidated ; and
planted amid shrubbery on a fine knoll, stands a very tasteful
cottage, commanding a view across \)aa Ociscasv^^ \Ti^^a®as|j,I

CHAP. Lvm.] THE HUNTINGFEAST. 235

caught sight of a graceful calico skirt disappearing from the
piazza through a doorwaj. The place was the residence of the
sussionarj.

A trim little sail-boat was dancing out at her moorings, a few
jards fi^m the beach.

Straggling over the low lands in the vicinity wifere several
native huts — untidy enough — but much better every way than
most of those in Tahiti*

We attended service at the church, where we found but a
^mall congregation ; and after what I had seen in Papeetee,
nothing very interesting took place. But the audience had a
curious, fidgety look, which I knew not how to account for, until
we ascertained that a sermon with the eighth commandment for
a text was being preached.

It seemed that there lived an Englishman in the district, who,
Hke our friends, the planters, was cultivating Tombez potatoes
ibr the Papeetee market.

In spite of all his precautions, the natives were in the habit
of making nocturnal forays into his inclosure, and carrying oft
the potatoes. One night he fired a fowling-piece, charged with
pepper and salt, at several shadows which he discovered steal-
ing across his premises. They fled. But it was like seasoning
any thing else : the knaves stole again with a greater relish than
•ever ; and the very next night, he caught a party in the act of
roasting a basket full of potatoes under his own cooking-shed.
At last, he stated his grievances to the missionary ; who, for the
benefit of his congregation, preached the sermon we heard.

Now, there were no thieves in Martair ; but then the people
of the valley were bribed to be honest. It was a regular busi-
ness transaction between them and the planters. In consideration
of so many potatoes " to them in hand, duly paid,** they were to
abstain from all depredations upon the plantation. Another
security against roguery was the permanent residence upon
the premises of their chief, Tonoi.

On our return to Martair, in the afternoon, we found the
doctor and Zeke making themselves comfortable. The latter
was reclining on the ground, pipe in mouth, watching the doctor,
who, sitting like a Turk, before a large iron kellVi, "v^a ^<sa^%
potatoes and Indian turnip, and now andt\ieiid:AX\<^T\Tk<^^5^^^s)^^^

226 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chaf. LTm.

from a bone ; all of which, by tunis, were thrown into the pot
He was making what he called " bullock broth."

In gastronomic affairs, my friend was something of an artist ;
and, by way of improving his knowledge, did nothing the rest
of the day but practise in what might be called Experimental
Cookery: broiling and grilling, and deviling slices of meat,
and subjecting them to all sorts of igneous operations. It was
the first fresh beef that either of us had tasted in more than a
year.

"Oh, yell pick up arter a while, Peter,'* observed Keke,
toward night, as Long Ghost was turning a great rib over the
coals — " what d'ye think, Paul ? "

" Hell get along, I dare say," replied I ; "he only wants to
get those cheeks of his tanned." To tell the truth, I was not a
little pleased to see the doctor's reputation as an invalid fading
away so fast ; especially, as on the strength of his being one, he
had promised to have such easy times of it, and very Hkdy, too,
at my expense.

CHAF.ux.] THE MURPHIES. 227

CHAPTER LIX.

The Marphies.

Dozing in our canoe the next morning about daybreak, we were
wakened by Zeke's hailing us loudly from the beach.

Upon paddling up, he told us that a canoe had arrived over-
night, from Papeetee, with an order from a ship lying there, for
a supply of his potatoes ; and as they must be on board the vessel
by noon, he wanted us to assist in bringing them down to his
sail-boat.

My long comrade was one of those, who, from always thrust-
ing forth the wrong foot foremost when they rise, or conmiitting^
some other indiscretion of the limbs, are more or less crabbed
or sullen before breakfast. It was in vain, therefore, that the
Yankee deplored the urgency of the case, which obliged him
to call us up thus early : — the doctor only looked the more
glum, and said nothing in reply.

At last, by way of getting up a little enthusiasm for the occa-
sion, the Yankee exclaimed quite spiritedly, " What d'ye say,
then, b'ys, shall we git at it ? "

" Yes, in the devil's name ! " replied the doctor, like a snap-
ping turtle ; and we moved on to the house. Notwithstanding
his ungracious answer, he probably thought that after the gas-
tronomic performance of the day previous, it would hardly do
to hang back. At the house, we found Shorty ready with the
hoes ; and we at once repaired to the farther side of the in-
dosure, where the potatoes had yet to be taken out of the
ground.

The rich, tawny soil seemed specially adapted to the crop ;
the great yellow murphies rolling out of the hills like eggs from
a nest.

My comrade really surprised me by the zeal with which he
applied himself to bis hoe. For my own pact) ^s^c^^ax^VAXs^

;

228 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap.ut.

the cool breath of the morning, I worked awaj like a good
fellow. As for Zeke and the Cockney, thejjseemed mightily
pleased at this evidence of our willingness to exert ourselves.

It was not long ere all the potatoes were turned out ; and then
came the worst of it : they were to be lugged down to the
beach, a distance of at least a quarter of a mile. And there
being no such thing as a barrow or cart on the island, there
was nothing for it but spinal marrows and broad shoulders.
Well knowing that this part of the business would be any thing
but agreeable, Zeke did his best to put as encouraging a face
upon it as possible ; and giving us no time to indulge in de-
sponding thoughts, gleefully directed our attention to a pile of
rude baskets — made of stout stalks — which had been provided
for the occasion. So, without more ado, we helped ourselves
from the heap ; and soon we were all four staggering along
under our loads.

The first trip down, we arrived at the beach together, Zeke's
enthusiastic cries proving irresistible. A trip or two more, l
however, and my shoulders began to grate in their sockets; ^
while the doctor's tall figure acquired an obvious stoop. Pre-
sently, we both threw down our baskets, protesting we could
stand it no longer. But our employers, bent, as it were, upon
getting the work out of us by a silent appeal to our moral
sense, toiled away without pretending to notice us. It was as
much as to say, " There, men, we've been boarding and lodg-
ing ye for the last three days ; and yesterday ye did nothing
earthly but eat ; so stand by now, and look at us working, if
ye dare." Thus driven to^it, then, we resumed our employ-
ment. Yet, in spite of all we could do, we lagged behind
Zeke and Shorty, who, breathing hard, and perspiring at every
pore, toiled away without pause or cessation. I almost wickedly
wished that they would load themselves down with one potato
too many.

Gasping as I was with my own hamper, I could not, for the

life of me, help laughing at Long Ghost. There be went—

kis long neck thrust forward, his arms twisted behind him to

form a shelf for his basket to rest on ; and his stilts of legs

^very once in a while gmng "Vf Tvy \xTidsc hini) as if his knee-joints

sUpped either way.

cHAP.ux.] THE MURPHIES. 229

** There ! I carry no more 1" he exclaimed all at once, flinging
his potatoes into the boat, where the Yankee was just then
stowing them away.

" Oh, then, said Zeke, quite briskly, " I guess you and Paul
had better try the * barrel-machine^ — come along, I'll fix ye out
in no time ;" and, so saying, he waded ashore, and hurried back
to the house, bidding us follow.

Wondering what upon earth the " barrel-machine'* could be,
and rather suspicious of it, we limped after. On arriving at the
house, we found him getting ready a sort of sedan-chair. It
was nothing more than an old barrel, suspended by a rope from
the middle of a stout oar. Quite an ingenious contrivance of
the Yankee's ; and his proposed arrangement with regard to
mine and the doctor's shoulders, was equally so.

"There now!" said he, when every thing was ready,
** there's no back-breaking about this ; you can stand right up
mider it, you see : jist try it once ;" and he politely rested the
blade of the oar on my comrade's right shoulder, and the other
end on mine, leaving the barrel between us.

" Jist the thing !" he added, standing off admiringly, while
we remained in this interesting attitude.

There was no help for us ; with broken hearts and backs we
trudged back t6 the field ; the doctor all the while saying
masses.

Upon starting with the loaded barrel, for a few paces we got
along pretty well, and were constrained to think the idea not a
bad one. But we did not long think so. In less than five
minutes we came to a dead halt, the springing and buckling of
the clumsy oar being almost unendurable.

" Let's shift ends," cried the doctor, who did not quite relish
the blade *of the stick, which was cutting into the blade of hi&
shoulder.

At last, by stages short and frequent, we managed to shamble
down to the beach, where we again dumped our cargo, in some-
thing of a pet.

"Why not make the natives help?" asked Long Ghost,
rubbing his shoulder,

"Natives be dumned!" said the Yankee, " tw^ivt^ qw '^\a.
ain't worth one white man. They ne\ex Yi«kS Tas»xi\. \ft -^^s^

230 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chip.ux.

anj, tliem chaps ; and they knows it too, for dumned little work
any on 'em ever does."

But notwithstanding this abuse, Zeke was at last obliged to
press a few of the bipeds into service. " Aramai ! ** (come here)
he shouted to several, who, reclining on a bank, had hitherto
been critical observers of our proceedings ; and, among other
things, had been particularly amused by the performance with
the sedan-chair.

After making these fellows load their baskets together, the
Yankee filled his own, and then drove them before him, down
to the beach. Probably he had seen the herds of panniered
mules, driven in this way by mounted Indians, along the great
road from Callao to Lima.

The boat at last loaded, the Yankee taking with him a couple
of natives, at once hoisted sail, and stood across the channel for
Papeetee.

The next morning at breakfast^ old Tonoi ran in, and told as
that the voyagers were returning. We hurried down to the
beach, and saw the boat gliding toward us, with a dozing islander
at the helm, and Zeke standing up in the bows, jingling a small
bag of silver, the proceeds of his cargo.

CHAP, uc] WHAT THEY THOUGHT OF US IN MART AIR. 231

CHAPTER LX.

What they thought of us in Martair.

Several quiet days now passed away, during which we just
worked sufficiently to sharpen our appetites ; the planters le-
niently exempting us from any severe toil.

Their desire to retain us became more and more evident ;
which was not to be wondered at ; for, beside esteeming us
from the beginning a couple of civil, good-natured fellows, who
would soon become quite at home with them, they were not
slow in perceiving that we were far different from the common
run of rovers ; and that our society was both entertaining and
instructive to a couple of solitary, illiterate men, like them-
selves.

In a literary point of view, indeed, they soon I'egarded us
with emotions of envy and wonder ; and the doctor was con-
sidered nothing short of a prodigy. The Cockney found out,
that he (the doctor) could read a book upside down, without
even so much as spelling the big words beforehand ; and the
Yankee, in the twinkling of an eye, received from him the sum
total of several arithmetical items, stated aloud, with the view
of testing the extent of his mathematical lore.

Then, frequently, in discoursing upon men and things, my
long comrade employed such imposing phi-ases, that, upon one
occasion, they actually remained uncovered while he talked.

In short, their favourable opinion of Long Ghost in particular,
rose higher and higher every day ; and they began to indulge
in all manner of dreams concerning the advantages to be derived
from employing so learned a labourer. Among other projects
revealed, was that of building a^ small craft of some forty tons,
for the purpose of trading among the neighbouring islands.
With a native crew, we would then take tvana oxxsi^xv^^^^^ ^^s^

232 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. tx.

tranquil Pacific ; touching here and there, as caprice suggested^
and collecting romantic articles of commerce ; — biche-de-mer,
the pearl-oyster, arrow-root, ambergris, sandal-wood, cocoa-nut
oil, and edible birds' nests.

This South Sea yachting was delightful to think of; and
straightway the doctor announced his willingness to navigate
the future schooner clear of all shoals and reefs whatsoever.
£[is impudence was audacious. He enlarged upon the science
of navigation ; treated us to a dissertation on Mercator's Sailing,
and the Azimuth compass ; and went into an inexplicable ex-
planation of the Lord only knows what plan of his, for infal-
libly settling the longitude.

Whenever my comrade thus gave the reins to his fine fancy,
it was a treat to listen, and therefore I never interfered ; but,
with the planters, sat in mute admiration before him. This
apparent self-abasement on my part must have been considered
as truly indicative of our respective merits ; for, to my no small
concern, I quickly perceived, that in the estimate formed of us,
Long Ghost began to be rated far above myself. For aught I
knew, indeed, he might have privately thrown out a hint con-
cerning the difference in our respective stations aboard the
Julia ; or else, the planters must have considered him some
illustrious individual, for certain inscrutable reasons, going
incog. With this idea of him, his undisguised disinclination for
work became venial ; and, entertaining such views of extendipg^
their business, they counted more upon his ultimate value to
them as a man of science than as a mere ditcher.

Nor did the humorous doctor forbear to foster an opinion
every way so advantageous to himself; at times, for the sake
of the joke, assuming airs of superiority over myself, which,
though laughable enough, were sometimes annoying.

To tell the plain truth, things at last came to suck a pass^
that I told him, up and down, that I had no notion to put up
with his pretensions ; if he were going to play the gentlemany
I was going to follow suit ; and then there would quickly be an
explosion.

At this he laughed heartily ; and after some mirthful chat,
we resolved upon leaving t\ie vaWey, «ca «ioii as we could do sa
with a proper regard to poWteue^a.

chap.ul] what they THOUGHT OF US IN MARTAIR. 233

At supper, therefor^ the same evening, the doctor hinted at
our intention*

Though much surprised and vexed, Zeke moved not a
muscle. "Peter," said he at last — very gravely — and after
mature deliberation, <* would you like to do the cooking f It's
easy work ; and you needn't do any thing else. Paul's heartier;
he can work in the field when it suits him ; and before long, we'll
have ye at something more agreeable : — won't we, Shorty ?"

Shorty assented.

Doubtless, the proposed arrangement was a snug one; espe-
cially the sinecure for the doctor ; but I by no means relished
the functions allotted to myself — they were too indefinite.
Nothing final, however, was agreed upon ; — our intention to
leave was revealed, and that was enough for the present. But^
as we said nothing further about going, the Yankee must have
concluded that we might yet be induced to remain. He re-
doubled his endeavours to make us contented.

It was during this state of affairs, that one morning, before
breakfast, we were set to weeding in a potato-patch ; and the
planters being engaged at the house, we were left to ourselves.

Now, though the pulling of weeds was considered by our
employers an easy occupation (for which reason, they had as-
signed it to us), and although, as a garden recreation, it may be
pleasant enough for those who like it — still, long persisted in^
the business becomes excessively irksome.

Nevertheless, we toiled away for some time, until the doctor,
who, from his height, was obliged to stoop at a very acute
angle, suddenly sprang upright ; and, with one hand propping^
his spinal column, exclaimed, '^ Oh, that one's joints were but
provided with holes to drop a little oil through ! "

Vain as the aspiration was for this proposed improvement
upon our species, I cordially responded thereto ; for every ver-
tebra in my spine was articulating its sympathy.

Presently, the sun rose over the mountains, inducing that
deadly morning languor so fatal to early exertion in a warm
climate. We could stand it no longer; but, shouldering our
hoes, moved on to the house, resolved to impose no more upon
the good-nature of the planters, by coTitm.\i\\i% qt^ TSkSsc^sxsfc
longer In an occupation so extremely uiiC0iigeia'8\«

234 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [obaf. u.

We freely told them 80. Zeke was exceedingly hurt, and
said every thing he could think of to alter our determination ;
but, finding all unavailing, he very hospitably urged us not to
be in any hurry about leaving ; for we might stay with ihim as
guests until we had time to decide upon our, future movements.

We thanked him sincerely ; but replied, that the following
morning we must turn our backs upon the hills of Martair.

CHAP. Lxi.] PREPARING FOR THE JOURNEY. «85

CHAPTER LXL

Preparing for the Jonmey.

During the remainder of the day we loitered about, talking
over our plans.

The doctor was all eagerness to visit Tamai, a solitary inland
village, standing upon the banks of a considerable lake of the
same name, and embosomed among groves. From Afrehitoo
70U went to this place by a lonely pathway, leading through
the wildest scenery in the world. Much, too, we had heard
concerning the lake itself which abounded in such delicious
fish, that, in former times, angling parties occasionally came
over to it from Papeetee.

Upon its banks, moreover, grew the finest fruit of the islands,
and in their greatest perfection. The "Ve," or Brazilian
plum, here attained the size of an orange ; and the gorgeous
"Arheea," or red apple of Tahiti, blushed with deeper dyes
than in any of the seaward valleys.

Beside all this, in Tamai dwelt the most beautiful and im-
sophisticated women in the entire Society group. In short,
the village was so remote from the coast, and had been so much
less affected by recent changes than other places, that, in most
things, Tahitian life was here seen as formerly existing in the
days of young Otoo, the boy-king, in Coca's time.

After obtaining from the planters all the information which
was needed, we decided upon penetrating to the village ; and
after a temporary sojourn there, to strike the beach again, and
journey round to Taloo, a harbour on the opposite side of the
island.

We at once put ourselves in travelling trim. Just previous
to leaving Tahiti, having found my wardrobe reduced to two
suits (frock and trowsers, both much the worse for wear), I had
quilted them together for mutual preservation (after a €a&\\L<^iQL
peculiar to sailors) ; engrafting a red feods. w^ovi ^ \^M>a ^\^^>

236 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, ua,

and producing thereby a choice variety in the way of clothing.
This was the extent of my wardrobe. Nor was the doctor by
any means better off. His improvidence had at last driven
him to don the nautical garb ; but, by this time, his frock — a
light cotton one — had almost given out, and he had nothing to ^
replace it. Shorty very generously offered him one which was f
a little less ragged ; but the alms was proudly refused ; Long
Ghost preferring to assume the ancient costume of Tahiti—
the ''Eoorar

This garment, once worn as a festival dress, is now seldom i
met with ; but Captain Bob had often shown us one which he t
kept as an heirloom. It was a cloak, or mantle of yellow tappa,
precisely similar to the ^^ poncho^ worn by the South- Americai
Spaniards. The head being slipped through a slit in the
middle, the robe hangs about the person in ample drapery. 1?
Tonoi obtained sufficient coarse brown tappa to make a short t
mantle of this description ; and in five minutes the doctor was
equipped. Zeke, eyeing his toga critically reminded its pro-
prietor that there were many streams to ford, and precipices
to scale, between Martair and Tamai ; and if he travelled in
petticoats, he had better hold them up.

Besides other deficiencies, we were utterly shoeless. In the
free and easy Pacific, sailors seldom wear shoes ; mine had heea
tossed overboard the day we met the Trades; and except in one
or two tramps ashore, I had never worn any since. In Martair,
they would have been desirable ; but none were to be had. For
the expedition we meditated, however, they were indispensable.
Zeke, being the owner of a pair of huge, dilapidated bootSi
hanging from a rafter-like saddle-bags, the doctor succeeded in
exchanging for them a case-knife, the last valuable article in his
possession. For myself, I made sandals from a bullock's hide,
such as are worn by the Indians in California. They are made
in a minute ; the sole, rudely fashioned to the foot, being con-
fined across the instep by three straps of leather.

Our headgear deserves a passing word. My comrade's was a

brave old Panama hat, made of grass, almost as. fine as threads

of silk ; and so elastic, that, upon rolling it up, it sprang into

perfect shape again. Set oS ^^7 \5^"^ ^wwafc^ slouch of this

CHAP. LXL] PBEPARING FOR THE JOURNEY. s 237

Spanisli sombrero, Doctor Long Ghost, in this and his Roora,
looked like a mendicant grandee.

Nor was my own appearance in an Eastern turban less dis-
tinguished. The way I came to wear it was this. My hat
having been knocked overboard, a few days before reaching
Papeetee, I was obliged to mount an abominable wad of parti-
coloured worsted — what sailors call a Scotch cap. Every one
knows the elasticity of knit wool ; and this Caledonian head-
dress crowned my temples so effectually, that the confined
atmosphere engendered was prejudicial to my curls. In vain
I tried to ventilate the cap : every gash made seemed to heal
whole in no time. Then such a continual chafing as it kept up
in a hot sun.

Seeing my dislike to the thing, Kooloo, my worthy friend,
prevailed upon me to bestow it upon him. I did so ; hinting
that a good boiling might restore the original brilliancy of the
colours.

It was then that I mounted the turban. Taking a new
Regatta frock of the doctor's, which was of a gay calico, and
winding it round my head in folds, I allowed the sleeves to
droop behind — thus forming a good defence against the sun,
though in a shower it was best off. The pendent sleeves
adding much to the effect, the doctor always called me the
Bashaw with Two Tails.

Thus arrayed, we were ready for Tamai; in whose green
saloons, we counted upon creating no small sensation.

238 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, lul

CHAPTER LXn.

TamaL

Long before sunrise the next morning, my sandals were laced
on, and the doctor had vaulted into Zeke's boots.

Expecting to see us again before we went to Taloo, the
planters wished us a pleasant journey ; and on parting, very
generously presented us with a pound or two of what sailora
call " plug " tobacco ; telling us to cut it up into small change ;
the Virginian weed being the principal circulating medium on
the island.

Tamai, we were told, was not more than three or four leagues
distant ; so making allowances for a wild road, a few hours to
rest at noon, and our determination to take the journey leisurely,
we counted upon reaching the shores of the lake some time in
the flush of the evening.

For several hours we went on slowly through wood and
ravine, and over hill and precipice, seeing nothing but occasional
herds of wild cattle, and often resting ; until we found ourselves^
about noon, in the very heart of the island.

It was a green, cool hollow among the mountains, into which
we at last descended with a bound. The place was gushing
with a hundred springs, and shaded over with great solemn
trees, on whose mossy boles the moisture stood in beads.
Strange to say, no traces of the bullocks ever having been here
were revealed. Nor was there a sound to be heard, nor a bird
to be seen, nor any breath of wind stirring the leaves. The
utter solitude and silence were oppressive ; and after peering
about under the shades, and seeing nothing but ranks of dark,
motionless trunks, we hurried across the hollow, and ascended a
steep mountain opposite.

Midway up we rested where the earth had gathered about the
roots of three palms, and thus formed a pleasant lounge, from
which we looked down upon 1iXie ^icJ^orw, x^^"^ <sGfc ^sKsk-^greon

CKAP. UUL] TAMAL 239

tuft of woodland at our feet Here we brought forth a small
calabash of ^^ poee^ a parting present from Tonoi. After eat-
ing heartily, we obtained fire by two sticks, and throwing our-
selves back, puffed forth our fatigue in wreaths of smoke. At
last we fell asleep ; nor did we waken till the sun had sunk so low,
that its rays darted in upon ns under the foliage.

Starting up, we then continued our journey ; and as we gained
the mountain top — there, to our surprise, lay the lake and vil-
lage of Tamai. We had thought it a good league off. Where
we stood, the yellow sunset was still lingering ; but over the
valley below, long shadows were stealing — the rippling green
lake reflecting the houses and trees just as they stood along its
banks. Several small cancels, moored here and there to posts in
the water, were dancing upon the waves; and one solitary
fiaherman was paddling over to a grassy point. In front of the
houses, groups of natives were seen ; some thrown at full length
upon the ground,' and others indolently leaning against the
bamboos.

With whoop and halloo, we ran down the hills, the villagers
soon hurrying forth to see who were coming. As we drew near,
they gathered round, all curiosity to know what brought the
" karhowries " into their quiet country. The doctor contriving
to make them understand the purely social object of our visit,
they gave us a true Tahitian welcome; pointing into their
dwellings, and saying they were ours as long as we chose to
remain.

We were struck by the appearance of these people, both men
and women ; so much more healthful than the inhabitants of
the bays. As for the young girls, they were more retiring and
modest, more tidy in their dress, and far fresher and more beau-
tiful than the damsels of the coast. A thousand pities, thought
I, that they should bury their charms in this nook of a valley.

That night we abode in the house of Bartoo, a hospitable old
chief. It was right on the shore of the lake ; and at supper,
we looked out through a rustling screen of foliage upon the sur-
face of the starlit water.

The next day we rambled about, and found a happy little
community, comparatively free from many deplorable evils to
which the rest of their countrymen are a\x\)^e«X, "YVjl^yc 'cssafc^

240 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [cOAF. laaec

too, was more occupied. To my surprise, the manufacture of
tappa was going on in several buildings. European calicoes
were seldom seen, and not many articles of foreign origin of any
description.

The people of Tamai were nominally Christians ; but being
80 remote from ecclesiastical jurisdiction, their religion sat lightly
upon them. We had been told, even, that many heathenish
games and dances still secretly lingered in their valley.

Now the prospect of seeing an old-fashioned " hevar," or
Tahitian reel, was one of the inducements which brought us
here ; and so, finding Rartoo rather liberal in his religious ideas,
we disclosed our desire. At first, he demurred ; and shrugging
his shoulders like a Frenchman, declared it could not be brought
about — was a dangerous matter to attempt, and might bring all
concerned into trouble. But we overcame all this, convinced
him that the thing could be done, and a ^^ hevar," a genuine
pagan fandango, was arranged for that very night.

CKHP. xjun.] . A DANCE IH THE VALLEY. Ul

CHAPTER LXm.

A Dunce in the Valley. ,'

Thsbe were some ill-natured people — teU-tales — - it seemed, in
Tamai ; and hence there was a deal of mystery about getting up
the dance.

An hour or two before midnight, Hartoo entered the house^
and, throwing robes of tappa over us, bade us follow at a dis-
tance behind him ; and, until oat of the village, hood our faces.
Kie^ily alive to the adventure, we obeyed. At last, after taking
a wide circuit, we came out upon the farthest shore of the lake.
It was a wide, dewy space ; lighted up by a full moon, and car-
peted with a minute species of fern, growing closely together.
It swept right down to the water, showing the village opposite,
glistening among the groves.

: Near the trees, on one side of the clear space, was a ruinous
pile of stones, many rods in extent ; upon whidi had formerly
stood a temple of Oro. At present, there was nothing but a
rude hut, planted on the lowermost terrace. It seemed to
have been used as a " tappa herreef^ or house for making the
native cloth.

Here we saw lights gleaming from between the bamboos, and
easting long, rod-like shadows upon the ground without. Voices
also were heard. We went up, and had a peep at the dancers,
who were getting ready for the ballet. They were some twenty
in number ; waited upon by hideous old crones, who might have
been duennas. Long Ghost proposed to send the latter packing ;
but Rartoo said it would never do, and so they were permitted
to remain.

We tried to effect an entrance at the door, which was fastened,
but, after a noisy discussion with one of the old witches within^
our guide became fidgety, and, at last, told us to desist, or we
would spoil all. He then led ua off to a diatAXkice) \o v^^SX "Co^^
performance ; aa the girlB^ he sttd, did niot ^^[i \x^\^x^»(^^d^^%

242 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, [chap; Lxm;

He, furthermore, made us promise to remain where we were,
until all was over, and the dancers had retired.

We waited impatiently ; and at last they came forth. They
were arrayed in short tunics of white tappa ; with garlands of
flowers on their heads. Following them, were the duennas,
who remained clustering about the house^ while the girls ad-
vanced a few paces ; and, in an instant, two of them, taller than
their companions, were standing side by side, in the middle of a
ring, formed by the clasped hands of the rest This movement
was made in perfect silence.

Presently, the two girls join hands over head ; and, crying
out, " Ahloo ! ahloo !" wave them to and fro. . Upon which,
the ring begins to circle slowly 5 the dancers moving sideways,
with their arms a little drooping. Soon they quicken their pace ;
and, at last, fly round and round ; bosoms heaving, hair stream-
ing, flowers dropping, and every sparkling eye circling in what,
seemed a line of light.

Meanwhile, the pair within are passing and repassing each
other incessantly. Inclining sideways, so that their long hair
falls far over, they glide this way and that; one foot con-
tinually in the air, and their fingers thrown forth, and twirling
in the moonbeams.

" Ahloo ! ahloo ! " again cry the dance queens ; and, coming
together in the middle of the ring, they once more lift up the
arch, and stand motionless.",

" Ahloo ! ahloo ! " Every link of the circle is broken ; and
the girls, deeply breathing, stand perfectly stilL They pant
hard and fast, a moment or two ; and then, just as the deep flush
is dying away from their faces, slowly recede, all round ; thus
enlarging the ring.

Again the two leaders wave their hands, when the rest pause;
and now, far apart, stand in the still moonlight, like a circle of
fairies. Presently, raising a strange chant, they softly sway
themselves, gradually quickening the movement, until at length,
for a few passionate moments, with throbbing bosoms, and glow-
ing cheeks, they abandon themselves to all the spirit of the
dance, apparently lost to every thing around. But soon sub-
siding again into the same laxi^m^m^^xrc^ as before, they be-
came motionless •, and .tVien, xe^Va^ ior^w'^. Q\i ^ i\\^.^<^

CHAP. Lxm.] A DANCE IN THE VALLEY. 243

eyes swimming in their heads, join in one wild chorus, and sink
into each other's arms.

Such is the Lory-Lory, I think they call it ; the dance of the
backsliding gkls of Tamai.

While it was going on, we had as much as we could do to keep
the doctor from rushing forward and seizing a partner.

They would give us no more ** hevars ** that night ; and
Rartoo fairly dragged us away to a canoe, hauled up on the lake
shore ; when we reluctantly emharked, and paddling over to the
village, arrived there in time for a good nap before sunrise.

The next day, the doctor went about, trying to hunt up the^
overnight dancers. He thought to detect them by their late
rising ; but never was man more mistaken ; for, on first sallying
out, the whole village was asleep, waking up in concert about
an hour after. But, in the course of the day, he came across .
several, whom he at once charged with taking part in the*
** hevar." There were some prim-looking fellows standing by
(visiting elders from Afrehitoo, perhaps), and the girls looked
embarrassed ; but parried the charge most skillfully.

Though soft as doves, in general, the ladies of Tamai are,
nevertheless, flavoured with a slight tincture of what we queerly
enough call the " devil;'* and they showed it on the present
occasion. For when the doctor pressed one rather hard, she all
at once turned round upon him, and, giving him a box on the
ear, told him to " hanree perrar ! " (be off with himself.)

& 2

24i ADVENT (IRES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [oiup.lxxt.

CHAPTER LXIV.

Mysterious.

These was a little old man, of a most hideous aspect, li^og
in Tamai, who, in a coarse mantle of tappa, went aboat tlie
village, dancing, and singing, and making faces. He followed
us about, wherever we went ; and, when unobserved by othersj
plucked at our garments, making frightful signs for us to go
along with him somewhere, and see something.

It was in vain, that we tried to get rid of him. Kicks and
cuffs, even, were at last resorted to; but, though he howled
like one possessed, he would not go away, but still haunted us,
At last, we conjured the natives to rid us of him; but they
only laughed ; so we were forced to endure the dispensation as
well as we could.

On the fourth night of our visit, returning home late from
paying a few calls through the village, we turned a dark comer
of trees, and came full upon our goblin friend ; as usual, chat-
tering and motioning with his hands. The doctor, venting a
curse, hurried forward; but, from some impulse or other, I
stood my ground, resolved to find out what this unaccountable
object wanted of us. Seeing me pause, he crept close up to me,
peered into my face, and then retreated, beckoning me to follow,
which I did.

In a few moments the village was behind us ; and with my
guide in advance, I found myself in the shadow of the heights
overlooking the farther side of the valley. Here my guide
paused until I came up with him; when, side by side, and
without speaking, we ascended the hill. *

Presently, we came to a wretched hut, barely distinguishable

in the shade cast by the neighbouring trees. Pushing aside a

rude, sliding door, held together with thongs, the goblin signed

me to enter. Within, it looked d«cck ^is i^ltch ; so I gave him

to understand that he muat atnka ^^i^X.^ ^a.^ %^\sL\ii^^^^^.

OHAF. lArr.J MYSTERIOUS. 245

Without replying, he disappeared in the darkness ; and, after
groping about, I heard two sticks rubbing together, and directly
saw a spark. A native taper was then lighted, and I stooped,
and entered.

It was a mere kenneL Foul old mats, and broken cocoa-nut
shells, and calabashes were strewn about the floor of earth ; and
overhead, I caught glimpses of the stars through chinks in the
roof. Here and there, the thatch had fallen through, and hung,
down in wisps.

I now told him to set about what he was going to do, or
produce whatever he had to show, without delay. Looking
round fearfully, as if dreading a surprise, he commenced turning
brer and over the rubbish in one corner. Xt last, he clutched.
a calabash, stained black, and with a neck broken off; on one
Aide of it was a large hole. Something seemed to be stuffed
away in the vessel ; and after a deal of poking at the aperture,
a musty old pair of s&ilor trowsers was drawn forth ; and, holding
them up eagerly, he inquired how many pieces of tobacco I
would give for them ?

Without replying, I hurried away ; the old man chasing me,,
and shouting as I ran, until I gained the village. Here, I dodged
him, and made my way home, resolved never to disclose so in-
glorious an adventure.

To no purpose, the next morning, my comrade besought me
to enlighten him : I preserved a mysterious silence.

The occurrence served me a good turn, however, so long as
we abode in Tamai; for the old clothesman never afterward
troubled me ; but for ever haunted the doctor, who, in vain,
trapplicated Heaven to be delivered from him.

K 3

246 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. lxv.

CHAPTER LXV.

The Hegira, or Flight

** I SAT, doctor," cried I, a few days after my adventure with
the goblin, as, in the absence of our host, we were one morning
lounging upon the matting in his dwelling, smoking our reed
pipes, " Tamai's a thriving place ; why not settle down?"

" Faith !" said he, " not a bad idea, Paul. But do you fancy
they'll let us stay, though? "

" Why, certainly : they would be overjoyed to have a couple
of karhowrees for townsmen."

" Gad ! you're right, my pleasant fellow. Ha ! ha ! Ill put
up a banana- leaf as physician from London — deliver lectures
on Polynesian antiquities — teach English in five lessons, of
one hour each — establish power-looms for the manufacture of
tappa — lay out a public park p the middle of the village, and
found a festival in honour of Captain Cook ! "

"But, surely, not without stopping to take breath," ob-
served L

The doctor's projects, to be sure, were of a rather visionary
cast; but we seriously thought, nevertheless, of prolonging
our stay in the valley for an indefinite period ; and, with this
understanding, we were turning over various plans for spend-
ing our time pleasantly, when several women came nmning
into the house, and hurriedly besought us to heree! heree!
(make our escape), crying out something about the mickona-
rees.

Thinking that we were about to be taken up under the act
for the suppression of vagrancy, we flew out of the house,
sprang into a canoe before the door, and paddled with might
and main over to the opposite side of the lake.

Approaching Rartoo's dwelling, was a great crowd, among
which we perceived several naXYV^a, ^\io^ from their partly
European dress, we were ceTtam ^\^ "swii^ t^\^^ m'l.^ssiacu

CHAP. Lxv.] THE HEGIRA, OR FLIGHT. B€T

Plunging into the groves, we thanked our stars that we had
thus narrowly escaped being apprehended as runaway seamen,
and marched off to the beach. This, at least, was what we
thought we had escaped.

Having fled the village, we could not think of prowling
about its vicinity, and then returning ; in doing so, we might
be risking our liberty again. We therefore determined upon
journeying back to Martair ; and setting our faces thitherward,
we reached the planters' house about nightfalL They gave us
a cordial reception, and a hearty supper ; and we sat up talking
until a late hour.

We now prepared to go round to Taloo, a place from which
we were not far off when at Tamai ; but wishing to see as much
of the island as we could, we preferred returning to Martair^
and then going round by way of the beach.

Taloo, the only frequented harbour of Imeeo, lies on the
western side of the island, almost directly over against Martair.
Upon one shore of the bay stands the village of Partoowye, a
missionary station. In its vicinity is an extensive sugar plan-
tation — the best in the South Seas, perhaps — worked by a
person from Sydney.

The patrimonial property of [the husband of Pomaree, and
every way a delightful retreat, Partoowye was one of the
occasional residences of the court. But at the time I write of,
it was permanently fixed there, the queen having fled thither
from Tahiti.

Partoowye, they told us, was, by no means, the place Papeetee
was. Ships seldom touched, and very few foreigners were
living ashore. A solitary whaler, however, was reported to be
lying in the harbour, wooding and watering, and said to be iti
want of men.

All things considered, I could not help looking upon Taloo
as offering "a splendid opening" for us adventurers. To say
nothing of the facilities presented for going to sea in the whaler,
or hiring ourselves out as day labourers in the sugar plantation,
there were hopes to be entertained of being promoted to some
office of high trust and emolument, about the person of her
majesty, the queen.
Nor was this expectation altogetiiet Q>nxa>aa. \sv^Qa& \x»s^

& 4

-ftt ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, tctt^p.xan

of many Polynesian princes, roving whites are fir^q n ently fotmd :
gentlemen pensioners of state, basking in the tropical simshiii^
of the eonrt, and leading the pleasantest lives in the world.
Upon islands little visited bj foreigners, the first seanum tiiat
settles down is generally domesticated in the famikf of the
head chief or king ; where he frequently discharges the fane*
tions of varions offices, elsewhere filled by as many different
individuals. As historiographer, for instance, he gives the
natives some account of distant countries ; as conmiisdoner of
the arts and sciences, he instructs them in the use of the ja^L-
knife, and the best way of shaping bits of ircm hoop into
spearheads ; and as interpreter to his majesty, he facilitates
intercourse with strangers ; besides instructing the people ge«
nerally in the uses of the most common English phrases, civil
and profane ; but oftener the latter.

These men generally marry well; often — Hke Har^ of
Hannamanoo — into the blood royal.

Sometimes they officiate as personal attendant, or first knrd
in waiting, to the king. At Amboi, one of the Tonga Islands^
a vagabond Welshman bends his knee as cupbearer to his
cannibal majesty. He mixes his morning cup of "arva," and,
with profound genuflections, presents it in a cocoa-nut bowl,
richly called. Upon another iidand of the same group, where
it is customary to bestow no small pains in dressing the hair-
frizzing it out by a curious process,^ into an enormous Pope's-
head — an old man-of-war's-man fills the post of barber to the
king. And as his majesty is not very neat, his mop is exceed-
ingly populous ; so that, when Jack is not engaged in dresfflng
the head intrusted to his charge, be busies himself in gently
titillating it— a sort of skewer being actually worn about in the
patient's hair for that special purpose.

Even upon the Sandwich Islands, a low rabble of foreigners
is kept about the person of Tammahammaha, for the purpose
of ministering to his ease or enjoyment.

Billy Loon, a jolly little negro, tricked out in a soiled blue

jacket, studded adl over with rusty bell-buttons, and gamiabed

with shabby gold lace, is the royal drummer and pounder of

the tamhourine, Joe, a wooden-legged Portuguese, who krt

Jds leg by a whale, is vioTimat-, aii^l&$st^««», %& V^ *^ vaSk^

csAP, £X¥.] THE HEOnt A, OR FLIGHT. 44i

a viQanous-lookiiig scamp, going about with his cops and baUt
in a side pockety diverts tlKi conrt with his jngglerj. These
icBe rascals receive no lized salarj, being altc^eiher dependent
upon the casual bounty of their master. Now and then thej
ran up & score at the dance houses in Honolulu^ where the
ittastrious Tammahaminaha HI. afterwards calls and settles
&e bilL

• A few years ranee, an auctioneer to has mi^esty came near
being added to the retinue of state. It seems that he was the
first man who had practised his vocation on the Sandwich Is-
lands ; and delighted with the sport of bidding upon his wares,
the king was one of his best customers. At last he besought
the man to leave his profession, and he should be handsomely
provided for at court. But the auctioneer refused ; and so the
ivory hammer lost the chance of being borne before him on a
velvet cushion, when the next king went to be crowned.

But it was not as strolling players, nor as footmen out of
employ, that the doctor and myself looked forward to our ap-
proaching introduction to the court of the Queen of Tahiti. On
the contrary, as before hinted, we expected to swell the ap-
propriations of bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts on the civil list, by
filling some honourable office in her gift.

We were told, that to resist the usurpation of the French,
the queen was rallying about her person all the foreigners she
could^ Her partiality for the English and Americans was well
known ; and this was an additional ground for our anticipating
a favourable reception. Zeke had informed us, moreover, that
by the queen's counsellors at Partoowye, a war of aggression
against the invaders at Papeetee had been seriously thought of.
Should this prove true, a surgeon's commission for the doctor,
and a lieutenancy for myself, were certainly counted upon in
our sanguine expectations.

Such, then, were our views, and such our hopes in projecting
a trip to Taloo. But in our most lofty aspirations, we by no
means lost sight of any minor matters which might help us to
promotion. The doctor had informed me, that he excelled in
playing the fiddle. I now suggested, that as soon as we arrived
at Partoowye, we should endeavour to borrow a violin for him ;
or if this could not be done, that lie a\iou\^ m"aXL\&%J^\»x^ ^^^sm^

250 ' ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [cBAV

kind of a sabstitute, and thus equipped, apply for an and
of the queen. Her well known passion for music would at
secure his admittance; and so, under the most faTon
auspices, bring about our introduction to her notice.

" And who knows,** said my waggish comrade, throwin
head back, and performing an imaginary air by briskly dra
one arm across the other, ^^ who knows, that I may npt i
myself into her majesty's good graces, so as to become a s<
fiizzio to the Tahitian princess?"

CHAP. Lxvi.] HOW WE WERE TO GET TO TALOO. 251

CHAPTER LXVL

How we were to get to Taloo.

The inglorious circumstances of our somewhat premature de-
parture from Tamai, filled the sagacious doctor and myself
with sundry misgivings for the future.

Under Zeke's protection, we were secure from all imperti-
nent interference in our concerns on the part of the natives.
But as friendless wanderers over the island, we ran the risk of
being apprehended as runaways, and as such, sent back to
Tahiti. The truth is, that the rewards constantly offered for
the apprehension of deserters from ships, induce some of the
natives to eye all strangers suspiciously.

A passport was therefore desirable; but such a thing had
never been heard of in Lneeo. At last. Long Ghost suggested,
that as the Yankee was well known, and much respected all
over the island, we should endeavour to obtain from him some
sort of paper, not only certifying to our having been in his
employ, but also to our not being highwaymen, kidnappers, nor
yet rimaway seamen. Even written in English, a paper like
this would answer every purpose ; for the unlettered natives,
standing in great awe of the document, would not dare to
molest us until acquainted with its purport. Then, if it came
to the worst, we might repair to the nearest missionary, and
have the passport explained.

Upon informing Zeke of these matters, he seemed highly
fiattered with the opinion we entertained of his reputation
abroad ; and he agreed to oblige us. The doctor at once offered
to furnish him with a draught of the paper ; but he refused,
saying he would write it himself. With a rooster's quill, there-
fore, a bit of soiled paper, and a stout heart, he set to work.

J52 ADVEKTURES IN THE SOUTH SEA& [aup. ijcn.

Eridentlj, lie was not accustomed to composition; for his
literary throes were so violent, that the doctor suggested that
some sort of a Csesarian operation might be necessary.

The precious paper was at last finished; and a great curiosily
it was. We were much diverted with his reasons for not
dating it.

"In this here dumned climate," he observed, "a feller can't
keep the rim of the months, no how ; cause there's no seasons;
no summer and winter to go by. One's etamally thinkin' it's
always July, it's so pesky hot."

A passport provided, we cast about for some means of getting
to Taloo.

The island of Imeeo is very nearly surrounded by a regular
brealcwater of coral, extending within a mile or less of the
shore. The smooth canal within furnishes the best means d
communication with the different settlements; aJl of winch,
with the exception of Tamai, are right upon the water. And
so indolent are the Lneeose, that they think nothing of going
twenty or thirty miles round the island, in a canoe, in order to
reach a place not a quarter of that distance by land. But as
tinted before, the fear of the bullocks has something to do with
this.

The idea of journeying in a canoe struck our fancy quite
pleasantly ; and we at once set about chartering one, if pos-
isible. But none could we obtain. For not only did we hate
nothing to pay for hiring one, but we could not expect to have
It loaned ; inasmuch as the good-natured owner would, in all
probability, have to walk along the beach as we paddled, in
order to bring back his property when we had no further use
for it.

At last, it was decided to commence our journey on foot;
trusting that we would soon fall in with a canoe going our way,
in which we might take passage.

The planters said we would find no beaten patb : — all we

had to do was to follow the beach; and however inviting it

might look inland, on no account must we stray from it In

short, the longest way round was the nearest way to Taloo.

At intervals, there were little laaxQ\fc\a ^Gti%\Ss& ihiare^ besides

GBAP. UCTX.] HOW WE WERE TO GET TO TALOO. SM

lonely fishermen's huts .here and there, where we could get
plenty to eat without pay; so there was no necessity to lay in
any store.

Intending to be off before sunrise the next morning, so as to
have the benefit of the coolest part of the day, we bade our
kind host farewell oyemight ; and then, repairing to the beach,
we launched our floating pallet^ and slept away merrily till
dawn.

254 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. Lxm

CHAPTER LXVn.

\The Journey round the Beach.

It was on the fourth day of the first month of the Hegira, or
Flight from Tamai (we now reckoned our time thus), that,
rising bright and early, we were up and away out of the valley
of Martair, before the fishermen even were stirring.

It was the earliest dawn. The morning only showed itself
along the lower edge of a bank of purple clouds, pierced by the
misty peaks of Tahiti. The tropical day seemed too languid
to rise. Sometimes, starting fitfully, it decked the clouds with
faint edgings of pink and gray, which, fading away, left all dim
again. Anon, it threw out'thin, pale rays, growing lighter and
lighter, until at last, the golden morning sprang out of the East
with a bound — darting its bright beams hither and thither,
higher and higher, and sending them, broadcast, over the face
of the heavens.

All balmy from the groves of Tahiti, came an indolent air,
cooled by its transit over the waters ; and grateful under foot^
was the damp and slightly yielding beach, from which the
waves seemed just retired.

The doctor was in famous spirits ; removing his Boora, he
went splashing into the sea ; and, after swimming a few yards^
waded ashore, hopping, skipping, and jiunping along the beach ;
but very careful to cut all his capers in the direction of our
journey.

Say what they will of the glowing independence one feels in
the saddle, give me the first morning flush of your cheery
pedestrian !

Thus exhilarated, we went on, as light-hearted and care-firee
as we could wish.

And here I cannot refrain from lauding the very superior
iaducements which mo&l iiitet\xo^\&'a\ ^\uvtrles afford, not
only to mere rovers like ouxadN^> "Wx. \a ^^xfls^^aa. ^^^^

CHAP, urm.] THE JOURNEY ROUND THE BEACH. 255

generallj. In these genial regions, one's wants are naturally
diminished ; and those which remain are easily gratified : fuel,
house-shelter, and, if you please, clothing, may be entirely
dispensed with.

How ^different, our hard northern latitudes! Alas! the lot
of a "poor devil," twenty degrees north of the tropic of
Cancer, is indeed pitiable.

At last, the beach contracted to hardly a yard's widtih, and
the dense thicket almost dipped into the sea. In place of the
smooth sand, too, we had sharp fragments of broken coraI>
which made travelling exceedingly unpleasant. "Lord! my
foot!" roared the doctor, fetching it up for inspection, with a
galvanic fling of the limb. A sharp splinter had thrust itself
into the flesh, through a hole in his boot. ' My sandals were
worse yet; their soles taking a sort of fossil impression of every
thing trod upon.

Turning round a bold sweep of the beach, we came upon a
piece of flne, open ground, with a fisherman's dwelling in the
distance, crowning a knoll which rolled off into the water.

The hut proved to be a low, rude erection, very recently
thrown up ; for the bamboos were still green as grass, and the
thatching, fresh and fragrant as meadow hay. It was open
upon three sides; so that, upon drawing near, the domestic
arrangements within were in plain sight. No one was stirring;
and nothing was to be seen but a clumsy old chest of native
workmanship, a few calabashes, and bundles of tappa hanging
against a post ; and a heap of something, we knew not what, in
a dark comer. Upon close inspection, the doctor discovered
it to be a loving old octuple, locked in each other's arms, and
rolled together in a tappa mantle.

^ Halloa ! Darby ! " he cried, shaking the one with a beard.
But Darby heeded him not ; though Joan, a wrinkled old body,
started up in afOright, and yelled aloud. Neither of us attempt-
^g to gag her, she presently became quiet ; and after staring
hard, and asking some unintelligible questions, she proceeded
to rouse her still slumbering mate.

What ailed him, we could not tell ; but there was no waking^
him. Equally in vain were all his dear s^j^xiaof^ c,^f&) ^^vci^^^^

t56 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAR [gbap.lxyil

and other endearments ; he lay like a log, &oe up^ and snonag
a;iray like a cayalrj trumpeter.

^Here, my good woman/' said Ixmg Ghost, ^jaat let me
try;" and, taking the patient right by his nose, he so lifted kim
bodily, into a sitting position, and hcdd him there until his eyes
<^ened. When this event came to pasa^ Darby looked roond
like one stupefied ; and then, springing to his &et» badk^ away
mto a comer, from which place we became the olgecti of his
earnest and respectfol attention.

*^ Permit me, my dear Darby, to introduee to you my esteemed
friend and comrade, Paul," said the doctor, gallanting me op
with all the grimace and flourish imaginable. Upon thk. Darby
began to recover his faculties, and surprised us not a litde, by
talking a few words of English. So far as could be understood,
they were expressive of his having been aware, that there were
two " karhowrees " in the neighbourhood ; that he was glad to
see us, and would have sometlung for us to eat in no time.

How he came by his English, was explained to us betbre we
left. Some time previous, he had been a denizen of Papeetee,
where the native language is broidered over with the most
classic sailor phrases. He seemed to be quite proud of his
residence there,^ and alluded to it in the same significant way in
which a provincial informs you that in his time he has resided
* in the capital. The old fellow was disposed to be garmloufl ;
but being sharp-set, we told him to get breakfast ; after which
we would hear his anecdotes. While employed among the
calabashes, the strange, antiquated fondness between these old
semi-savages was really amusing. I made no doubt tliat they
were saying to each other, " Yes, my love " — ** No, my life^'
just in the same way that some young couples do at home.
. They gave us a hearty medl ; and, while we were discussing
its merits, they assured us, over and over again^ that they ex-
pected nothing in return for their attentions ; noore ; we were
at liberty to stay as long as we pleased, and, as long as we did
stay, their house and every thing they had, waa no longer
tbeirs, but ours ; still more : they themselves were our -slaves— r
die old lady, to a degree that was altogether supeifiuoas.
Hub, bow, is TahitiaDLlioapi\si\i\>'YV ^Vi^-ixxusiQlatioQ upon (Mie'f
own hearthstone for the henefiit oi ^^ %wRia>V

CHAP. Lxvn.] THE JOURNEY ROUND THE BEACH. 257

The Polynesians cany their hospitality to an amazing extent.
Let a native of Waiurar, the westernmost part of Tahiti, make
his appearance as a traveller at Fartoowye, the most eastemly
village of Imeeo, though a perfect stranger, the inhabitants on
^ sides accost him at their doorways, inviting him to enter, and
make himself at home. But the traveller passes on, examining
every house attentively, until, at last, he pauses before one
which suits him, and then exclaiming, " Ah, ena maitai " (this
one will do, I think), he steps in, and makes himself perfectly
at ease, flinging himself upon the mats, and very probably
calling for a nice young cocoa-nut, and a piece of toasted bread-
fruit, sliced thin, and done brown.

Curious to relate, however, should a stranger carrying it thus
bravely, be afterward discovered to be without a house of his
■own, why, he may thenceforth go a-begging for his lodgings.
The " karhowrees,'' or white men, are exceptions to this rule.
Thus is it precisely as in civilized countries ; where those who
have hous^ and lands are incessantly bored to death with in-
vitations to come and live in other people's houses, while many
a poor gentleman who inks the seams of his coat, and to whom
the like invitation would be really acceptable, may go and sue
for it. • But to the credit of the ancient Tahitians, it should
here be observed, that this blemish upon their hospitality is
only of recent origin, and was wholly unknown in old times.
So told me Captain Bob.

In Polynesia it is esteemed " a great hit," if a man succeed
in marrying into a family, to which the best part of the commu-
nity is related (Heaven knows it is otherwise with us). The
reason is, that when he goes a-travelling, the greater number
of houses are the more completely at his service.

Receiving a paternal benediction from old Darby and Joan,
we continued our journey ; resolved to stop at the very next
place of attraction which offered.

Nor did we long stroll for it. A fine walk along a beach of
Bhells, and we came to a spot, where with trees here and there,
the land was all meadow, sloping away to the water, which
stirred a sedgy growth of reeds bordering its margin. Close
by was a little cove, walled in with coral, where «. ^<^«t q>^ <iasss^^
wns dancing vp and down. A few p?Hiea ^AaXaxA^ ^^SL^x^aXNix^^

958 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH S£A#. {<sap. xjra.

terrace oyerlooking tlie sea, were several native dwellings, newlj
thatched, and peeping into view out of the foliage, like summer-
houses.

As we drew near, forth came a burst of voices; and presentlj^
three gay girls, overflowing with life, health, and youth, and full
of spirits and mischief. One was arrayed in a flaunting robe
of calico ; and her long black hair was braided behind in two
immense tresses, joined together at the ends, and wrealhed
with the green tendrils of a vine. From her self-possessed
and foward air I fancied she might be some young lady from
Papeetee, on a visit to her country relations. Her companions
wore mere 8lips«of cotton cloth; their hair waa dishevelled;
and, though very pretty, they betrayed the reserve and em-
barrassment characteristic of the provinces.

The little gipsy first mentioned ran up to me with great
cordiality ; and giving the Tahitian salutation, opened upon me
such a flre of questions, that there was no understanding, much
less answering, them. But our hearty welcome to Loohooloo,
as she called the hamlet, was made plain enough. Meanwhile,
Doctor Long Ghost gallantly presented an arm to each of the
other young ladies, which at first they knew not what to
make of ; but at last, taking it for some kind of joke, accepted
the civility.

The names of these three damsels were at once made known
by themselves; and being so exceedingly romantic, I cannot
forbear particularizing them. Upon my comrade's arms, then,
were hanging Night and Morning, in the persons of Farnowar,
or the Day-bom, and Famoopoo, or the Night-born. She
with the tresses was very appropriately styled Marhar-Rarrar,
the Wakeful, or Bright-eyed.

By this time, the houses were emptied of the rest of their
Inmates — a few old men and women, and several strapping
young fellows rubbing their eyes and yawning. All crowded
round putting questions as to whence we came. Upon being
informed of our acquaintance with Zeke, they were delighted;
4md one of them recognized the boots worn by the doctor.
*< Keekee (Zeke) maitai," they cried, '' nuee nuee hanna hanna
portarto " — (makes plenty o£ ^Qt«iiQ«&V
There was now i^ litd^ ftcisnSltj ^X/^^a^Assa ^«^\ft^\ia ^^n^

CHAP. Lxvn.] THE JOURNEY ROUND THE BEACH. 200

have the honour of entertaining the strangers. At last, a tall
old gentleman, by name Marharvai, with a bald head and white
beard, took us each by the hand, and led us into his dwelling.
Once inside, Marharvai, pointing about with his staff, was so
obsequious in assuring us that his house was ours, that Long
Ghost suggested he might as well hand over the deed.

It was drawing near noon ; so after a light lunch of roasted
bread-fruit, a few wiffs of a pipe, and some lively chatting, our
host admonished the company to lie down, and take the ever*
lasting siesta. We complied ; And had a social nap all round.

8 2

260 ^ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. Lxvm.

CHAPTER LXVnL

A Dinner-Party in Imeeo.

It was just in the middle of the merry, mellow afternoon, that
they ushered us to dinner, underneath a green shelter of palm
boughs ; open all round, and so low at the eaves, that we stooped
to enter.

Within, the ground was strewn over with aromatic ferns —
call " nahee " — freshly gathered ; which, stirred under foot,
diffused the sweetest odour. On one side was a row of yellow-
mats, inwrought with fibres of bark, stained a bright red.
Here, seated after the fashion of the Turk, we looked out, over a
verdant bank, upon the mild, blue, endless Pacific. So far round
had we skirted the island, that the view of Tahiti was now in-
tercepted.

Upon the ferns before us, were laid several layers of broad
thick " pooroo " leaves, lapping over, one upon the other. And
upon these were placed, side by side, newly plucked banana
leaves, at least two yards in length, and very wide : the stalks
were withdrawn, so as to make them lie flat. This green cloth
was set out and garnished, in the manner following : —

First, a number of " pooroo " leaves, by way of plates, were
ranged along on one side ; and by each was a rustic nut-bowlj
half-filled with sea-water, and a Tahitian roll, or small bread-
fruit, roasted brown. An immense flat calabash, placed in the
centre, was heaped up with numberless small packages of moist,
steaming leaves : in each was a small fish, baked in the earth,
and done to a turn. This pyramid of a dish was flanked on
either side by an ornamental calabash. One was brimming with
the golden-hued " poee," or pudding, made from the red plantain
of the mountains ; the other was stacked up with cakes of the
Indian turnip, previously macerated in a mortar, kneaded with
the milk of the cocoa-nut, and t\ven \>^^^ \\i l\!kA a^aces be-
tween the three dishes, were ]^\\fed 70>xxv^ e.Q^Q^-TiL>)5»^^ccv«g^\^H.

CHAP. Lxviii.;] ' A DINNER-PARTY IN IMEEO. 26i

their husks. Their eyes had been opened and enlarged ; so that
each was a ready-charged goblet.

There was a sort of side-cloth in one corner, upon which, in
bright buff jackets, lay the fattest of bananas ; " avees," red-
ripe ; guavas, with the shadows of their crimson pulp flushing
through a transparent skin, and almost coming and going there
like blushes ; oranges, tinged here and there, berry-brown ;
and great jolly melons, which rolled about in very portliness.
Such a heap ! All ruddy, npe, and round — bursting with the
good cheer of the tropical soil, from which they sprang !

" A land of orchards!** cried the doctor, in a rapture; and
he snatched a morsel from a sort of fruit of which gentlemen of
the sanguine temperament are remarkably fond ; namely, the
ripe cherry lips of Miss Day-born, who stood looking on.

Marharvai allotted seats to his guests; and the meal began.
Thinking that his hospitality needed some acknowledgment, I
rose, and pledged him in the vegetable wine of the cocoa-nut ;
merely repeating the ordinary salutation, " Yar onor boyoee."
Sensible that some compliment, after the fashion of white men,
was paid him, with a smile, and a courteous flourish of the hand,
he bade me be seated. No people, however refined, are more
easy and graceful in their manners than the Imeeose.

The doctor, sitting next our host, now came under his special
protection. Laying before his guest one of the packages of
fish, Marharvai opened it, and commended its contents to his
particular regards. But my comrade was one of those, who, on
convivial occasions, can always take care of themselves. He ate
an indefinite number of " Pehee Lee Lees ** (small fish), his own
and next neighbour s bread-fruit ; and helped himself, to right
and left, with all the ease of an accomplished diner-out.

" Paul," said he, at last, "you don't seem to be getting along;
why don't you try the pepper sauce?" and, by way of ex-
ample, he steeped a morsel of food into his nutful of sea-water»
On following suit, I found it quite piquant, though rather bitter ;
but, on the whole, a capital substitute for salt. The Lneeose
invariably use sea-water in this way, deeming it quite a treat ;
and considering that their country is surrounded by an ocean of
catsup, the luxury cannot be deemed an ex^ervsiv^ qxv^*

The £sb were delicious ; the mannex o? cocJs^vsx^ \X:^^\£^\\^ *^^

8 3

SBS ABVENTIJRES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, lxvhl

ground, preserving all the juices, and rendering them, exceed-
ingly sweet and tender. The plantain pudding was almost
cloying ; the cakes of Indian turnip, quite palatable ; and the
roasted bread-fruit, cris^ as toast.

During the meal, a native lad walked round and round the
party, carrying a long staff of bamboo. This he occaaionally
tapped upon the cloth before each guest ; when a white clotted
substance dropped forth, with a savour not unlike that of a curd
This proved to be " Lovmee," an excellent relish, prepared ifrom
the grated meat of ripe cocoa-nuts,, moistened with cocoa-nut
milk and salt water, and kept perfectly tight, until a little past
the saccharine stage of fermentation.

Throughout the repast there was much lively chatting am(»ig
the islanders, in which their conversational powers quite ex-
ceeded ours. The young ladies, too, showed themselves very
expert in the use of their tongues, and contributed much to the
gaiety which prevailed.

Nor did these lively nymphs suffer the meal to languish ; for
3ipon the doctor's throwing himself back, with an air of much
satisfaction, they sprang to their feet, and pelted him with
granges and guavas. This, at last, put an end to the enter-
tainment.

By a hundred whimsical oddities, my long fidend became a
great £a,vourite with these people ; and they bestowed upon him
a, long, comical title, expressive of his lank figure and Roors
combined. The latter, by the by, never foiled to excite the re-
mark of every body we encountered.

The giving of nicknames is quite a passion with the people of
Tahiti and Imeeo. No one, with any peculiarity, whether of
person or temper, is exempt ; not even strangers.

A pompous captain of a man-of-war, visiting Tahiti for the
S0cond time, discovered that, among the native6,^he went by the
dignified title of " Atee Foee" — literally, Poee Head, or Pud-
ding Head. Nor is the« highest rank among themselved any
protection* The first husband of the present queen was oowr
monly known in the court circles, as '' Pot Belly." Ifo caFtifid
the greater part of his person before him, to be sure ; and so
did the gentlemanly Greorg<&\Y.-^\^wi ^ha.t 9l Utle for a.king
eonaort 1

<JHAF. Lxvm.] A I>mNER-PARTY IN IMEEO. ^63

Even " Pomaree " itself, the royal patronymic, was, originally,
a mere nickname, and literally signifies, one talking through
his nose. The first monarch of that name, being on a war party,
and sleeping overnight among the mountains, awoke one morn-
ing with a cold in his head ; and some wag of a courtier had no
more manners than to vulgarise him thus.

How different from the volatile Polynesian in this, as in all
other respects, is our grave and decorous North American In^
dian. While the former bestows a name, in accordance with
some humorous or ignoble trait ,the latter seizes upon what
is deemed the most exalted or warlike : and hence among the
red tribes, we have the truly patrician appellations of " White
Eagles," " Young Oaks," " Fiery Eyes," and "Bended Bows.''

264 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chaf. lxbc.

CHAPTER LXIX.

The Cocoa-Palm.

"While the doctor and the natives were taking a digestive nap
after dinner, I strolled forth to have a peep at the country
which could produce so generous a meal.

To my surprise, a fine strip of land in the vicinity of the
hamlet, and protected seaward hy a grove of cocoa-nut and
bread-fruit trees, was under high cultivation. Sweet potatoes,
Indian turnips, and yams were growing ; also mellons, a few
pine-apples, and other fruits. Still more pleasing was the sight
of young bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees set out with great
care, as if, for once, the improvident Polynesian had thought of
his posterity. But this was the only instance of native thrift
which ever came under my observation. For, in all my ram-
bles over Tahiti and Imeeo, nothing so much struck me as the
comparative scarcity of these trees in many places where they
ought to abound. Entire valleys, like"'Martair, of inexhausti-
ble fertility, are abandoned to all the rankness of untamed
vegetation. Alluvial flats bordering the sea, and watered by
streams from the mountains, are overgrown with a wild, scrub
guava-bush, introduced by j foreigners, and which spreads with
such fatal rapidity, that the natives, standing still while it
grows, anticipate its covering the entire island. Even tracts of
clear land, which, with so little pains, might be made to wave
with orchards, lie wholly neglected.

When I consider their unequalled soil and climate, thus
unaccountably slighted, I often turned in amazement upon the
natives about Papeetee ; some of whom all but starve in their
gardens run to waste. Upon other islands which I have
visited, of similar fertility, and wholly unreclaimed from their
first discovered condition, no spectacle of this sort was
presented.
The high estimation in yAAcAi loasi^ ^^ ^^^ ^x^»XAx5itRA«fc

CHAP, uox.] THE COCOA-PALM. 265

held by the Tahitians and Imeeose — their beauty in the land-
scape — their manifold uses, and the facility with which they
are propagated, are considerations which render the remissness
alluded to still more unaccountable. The cocoa-palm is an
example; a tree by far the most important i production of
Nature in the Tropics. To the Polynesian, it is emphatically
the Tree of Life; transcending even the bread-fruit in the mul-
tifarious uses to which it is applied.

Its very aspect is imposing. Asserting its supremacy by an
erect and lofty bearing, it may be said to compare with other
trees, as man with inferior creatures.

The blessings it confers are incalculable. Year after year,
the islanders repose beneath its shade, both eating and drinking
of its fruit ; he thatches his hut with its boughs, and weaves
them into baskets to carry his food ; he cools himself with a
fan platted from the young leaflets, and shields his head from
the sun by a bonnet of the leaves ; sometimes he clothes him-
self with the cloth-like substance which wraps round the base
of the stalks, whose elastic rods, strung with filberts, are used
as a taper ; the larger nuts, thinned and polished, furnish him
with a beautiful goblet ; the smaller ones, with bowls for his
pipes ; the dry husks kindle his fires ; their fibres are twisted
into fishing-lines and cords for his canoes ; he heals his wounds
with a balsam compounded from the juice of the nut; and
with the oil extracted from its meat, embalms the bodies of the
dead.

The noble trunk itself is far from being valueless. Sawn inta
posts, it upholds the islander's dwelling ; converted into char-
coal, it cooks his food ; and supported on blocks of stones, rails
in his lands. He impels his canoe through the water with a
paddle of the wood, and goes to battle with clubs and spears of
the same hard materiaL

In pagan Tahiti, a cocoa-nut branch was the symbol of regal
authority. Laid upon the sacrifice in the temple, it made the
offering sacred; and with it the priests chastised and put to
flight the evil spirits which assailed them. The supreme
majesty of Oro, the great god of their mythology, was declared
in the cocoa-nut log from which his image was rudal^ caixed*
Upon one of the Tonga Islands, tkere ^\»!ai^ ^ \^\sn.'^ nx.^^^

see ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. fciiAP. Lxn.

reyered itsdf as a;;deit7. Even upon tbe Sandwich Islands, the
cocoa-palm retains all its ancient repiitaftion; the people there
having thought of adopting it as the national emhknu

The cocoa-nut i& planted as follows : Sheeting a suitable
]^ace, you drop into the ground a fully ripe nut, and leave it.
In a few days^ a thin, lance-like shoot forces itsdf through a
minute hole in the shell, pierces the husk, and soon unfolds
three pale-green leaves in the ak ; while originating,* in the
fame soft white sponge which now completely fills the nut, a
pair of fibrous roots, pushing away the stoppers which cloae
two holes in an opposite direction, penetrate the shell, and
strike vertically into the ground. A day or twa more, and the
shell and husk, which in the last and germinating stage of tiie
nut, are so hard that a kni£& will scarcely make any impression,
spontaneously burst by some force within ; and, henceforth, the
hardy young plant thrives apace; and needing no culture,
pruning, or attention of any sort, rapidly arrives at maturity.
In four or five jrears it bears ; in twice as many more, it
B^ns to lift its head among the groves, wh^e, waxing strong,
it flourishes for near a century.

Thus, as some vo3ragi^ has said, the man who bat drops one
^ these nuts into the ground, may be said to confer a greater
and more certain benefit upon himself and posterity, than many
a life's toil in less genial climes.

The fruitfulness of the tree is remarkable. As k>ng as it
lives, it bears; and without intermission. Two hundred nvtB>
besides innumerable white blossoms of others, maj be seen
upon it at one time; and though a whole year is required to
bring any one of them to the germinating point, no twoy
perhi^s,. are at one time in precisely the same stage of growth.

The tree delights in a maritime situation. In its greatest
perfection, it is perhaps found right on tine seanahor^ whare its
loots are actually wa^ed* But such instances are only met
frith upon islands where the swell of the sea is pvevented from
breaking on the beach by an encircling ree£ No saline dawHir
m peroeptibia in the nut produced in such a plaee.^ Although
it bears in any soil,, whether upland or bottom, it does mrt
^nmsh vigorously iiiland \ «n^ \ Yoti:^ it^^^ntlj observed.

CHAP, ijox.] THE COCOA-PALM. 867

that when met with far up the valleys, its tall stem inclines
seaward, as if pining after a more genial region.

It is a curious fact, that, if you deprive the cocoa-nut tree of
the verdant tuft at its head, it dies at once ; and if allowed to
stand thus, the trunk, which, when alive, is encased in so hard
a bark as to be almost impervious to a bullet, moulders away,
and, in an incrediblly short period, becomes dust. This is,
perhaps,' partly owing to the peculiar constitution of fthe
trunk, a mere cylinder of minute hollow reeds, closely packed,
and very hard ; but when exposed at top, peculiarly fitted to
convey moisture and diecay through the entire stem.

The finest orchard of cocoa-palms I know, and the only
plantation of them I ever saw at the islands, is one that stands
right upon the southern shore of Papeetee Bay. They were
set out by the ^rtst Pbmaree, almost half-a-century ago ; and
the soil being especially adapted to their growth, the noMe
trees now form a magnificent grove, nearly a mile in extent.
No other plant, scarcely a bush, is to be seen within its
precincts. The Broom Road passes through its entire length.

At noonday, this grove is one of the most beautiful^ serene,
witching places that ever was seen. High overhead are ranges
of green rustKhg arches ; through which the sun's rays come
down to you in sparkles. You seem to be wandering through
illimitable halls of pillars ; everywhere you catch glimpses of
stately aisle^ intersecting each other at all points. A strai^
sifence, too, reigns far and near ; the air flushed with the mellow
stillness of a sunset.

But after the long morning calms, the sea-breeze comes in ;
and creeping over the tops of these thousand trees, they^ nod
l^eir plumes. Soon the breeze freshens ; and you hear tiie
branches brushing against each others and the flisxible trunks
begin to sway. Towards evening, the whole grove is rocking^to
and fro ; and the traveller on the Broom Bbad is startled by the
frequent falling of the nuts, snapped from their brittle stems.
They come flyings through the air, ringing like jugglers' balls;
and often bound along the ground for many rods.

268 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. lxx.

CHAPTER LXX.

Life at Loohooloo.

Finding the society at Loohooloo very pleasant, the young
ladies, in particular, being extremely sociable ; and, moreover,
in love with the famous good cheer of old Marharvai, we ac-
quiesced in an invitation of his, to tarry a few days longer. "We
might then, he said, join a small canoe party, which was going
to a place a league or two distant. So averse to all exertion are
these people, that they really thought the prospect of thus getting
rid of a few miles' walking, would prevail with us, even if there
were no other inducement.

The people of the hamlet, as we soon discovered, formed a
snug little community of cousins ; of which our host seemed the
head. Marharvai, in truth, was a petty chief, who owned the
neighbouring lands. And as the wealthy, in most cases, rejoice
in a numerous kindred, the family footing upon which everybody
visited him, was, perhaps, ascribable to the fact of his being the
lord of the manor. Like Captain Bob, he was, in some things,
a gentleman of the old school — a stickler for the customs of a
past an(^ pagan age.

Nowhere else, except in Tamai, did we find the manners of
the natives less vitiated by recent changes. The old-fashioned
Tahitian dinner they gave us on the day of our arrival, was a
fair sample of their general mode of living.

Our time passed delightfully. The doctor went his way, and
I mine. With a pleasant companion, he was for ever strolling
inland, ostensibly to collect botanical specimens ; while I, for the
most part, kept near the sea; sometimes taking the girls an
aquatic excursion in a canoe.

Often we went fishing •, no^ ^oi.\xi« w^x stMigid hooks and

CHAjp. Lxx.] LIFE AT LOOHOOLOO. 269

lines, but leaping right into the water, and chasing our prey-
over the coral rocks, spear in hand.

Spearing fish is glorious sport. The Lneeose, all round the
island, catch them in no other way. The smooth shallows be-
tween the reef and the shore, and, at low water, the reef itself,
being admirably adapted to this mode of capturing them. At
almost any time of the day — save ever the sacred hour of noon
— you may see the fish-hunters pursuing their sport; with
loud halloes, brandishing their spears, and splashing through the
water in aU directions. Sometimes a solitary native is seen, far
out upon a lonely shallow, wading slowly along, with eye intent
and poised spear.

But the best sport of all, is going out upon the great reef itself,
by torch-light. The natives follow this recreation with as much
spirit as a gentleman of England does the chase ; and take full
as much delight in it.

i The torch is nothing more than a bunch of dry reeds, bound
firmly together; the spear, a long, light pole, with an iron head,
on one side barbed.

I shall never forget the night, that old Marharvai and the rest
of us, paddling off to the reef, leaped at midnight upon the coral
ledges with waving torches and spears. We were more than a
mile from the land ; the sullen ocean thundering upon the out-
side of the rocks, dashed the spray in our faces, almost extin-
guishing the flambeaux ; and, far as the eye could reach, the
darkness of sky and water was streaked with a long, misty line
of foam, marking the course of the coral barrier. The wild
fishermen, flourishing their weapons, and yelling like so many
demons to scare their prey, sprang from ledge to ledge, and
sometimes darted their spears in the very midst of the breakers.

But fish-spearing was not the only sport we had at Loohooloo.
Right on the beach was a mighty old cocoa-nut tree, the roots of
which had been underwashed by the waves, so that the trunk
inclined far over its base. From the tuft of the tree, a stout
cord of bark depended, the end of which swept the water several
yards from the shore. This was a Tahitian swing. A native lad
seizes hold of the cord, and, after swinging to and fro quite
leisurely, all at once sends himself fifty or sixty feet fcoisa. l\\ft

3170 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, uck/

water, rushing through the air like a rocket. I doubt whether
anj of our rope-dancers would attempt the feat. For my own
party I had neither head nor heart for it ; so, after sending a lad
aloft with an additional cord, by way of security, I constructed
a lai^e basket of green boughs, in which I and some par-
ticular friends of mine used to swing over sea and land by
the hour.

MAP. Lxxi.] WE START FOR TALOO. 271

CHAPTER LXXI.

We start for Taloa

Bright was the morning, and brighter still the smiles of the
jTOung ladies who accompanied us, when we sprang into a sort
of family canoe — wide and roomy — and bade adieu to the hos-
pitable Marharvai and his tenantry. As we paddled away, they
stood upon the beach, waving their hands, and cryiijig out,
"Aroha! aroha!" (Farewell! farewell!) as long as we were
within hearing.

Very sad at parting with them, we endeavoured, neverthe-
less, to console ourselves in the society of our fellow-passengers*
Among these were two old ladies; but as they said nothing
to us, we will say nothing about them ; nor any thing about
the old men who managed the canoe. But of the three mis-
cbievous, dark-eyed young witches, who lounged in the stern
of that comfortable old island gondola, I have a great deal
to say.

In the first place, one of them was Marhar-Rarrar, the Bright-
eyed ; and, in the second place, neither she nor the romps, her
companions, ever dreamed of taking the voyage, until the doctor
and myself announced our intention; their going along was
nothing more than a madcap frolic; in short, they were a
parcel of wicked hoydens, bent on mischief, who laughed in
your face when you looked sentimental, and only tolerated your
company when making merry at your expense.

Something or other about us was perpetually awaking their
mirth. Attributing this to his own remarkable figure, the
doctor increased their enjoyment, by assuming the part of a
Merry Andrew. Yet his cap and bells never jingled but to
some time ; and while playing the Tom-fool, I more than sus-
pected that he was trying to play the rake. At home, it is
deemed auspicious to go a-wooing in epaulets ; but amoti^ IV.
Tdfynesians, your best dress in courting \a mo'^ej.

272 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, lxxl

A fresh breeze springing up, we set our sail of matting, and
glided along as tranquilly as if floating upon an inland stream;
the white reef on one hand, and the green shore on the other.

Soon as we turned a headland, we encountered another canoe,
paddling with might and main in an opposite direction; the
strangers shouting to each other, and a tall fellow in the bow
dancing up and down like a crazj man. Thej shot by us like
an arrow, though our fellow-voyagers shouted again and again,
for them to cease paddling.

According to the natives, this was a kind of royal mail-canoe,
carrying a message from the queen to her friends in a distant
part of the island.

Passing several shady bowers, which looked quite inviting,
we proposed touching, and diversifying the monotony of a sea-
voyage by a stroll ashore. So, forcing our canoe among the
bushes, behind a decayed palm, l3dng partly in the water, we
left the old folks to take a nap in the shade, and gallanted the
others among the trees, which were here trellised with vines
and creeping shrubs.

In the early part of the afternoon, we drew near the place to
which the party were going. It was a solitary house, inhabited
by four or five old women, who, when we entered, were ga-
thered in a circle about the mats, eating poee from a cracked
calabash. They seemed delighted at seeing our companions,
but rather drew up when introduced to ourselves. Eying us
distrustfully, they whispered to know who we were. The
answers they received were not satisfactory ; for they treated
us with marked coolness and reserve, and seemed desirous of
breaking off our acquaintance with the girls. Unwilling, there-
fore, to stay where our company was disagreeable, we resolved
to depart, without even eating a meal.

Informed of this, Marhar-Rarrar and her companions evinced
the most lively concern ; and equally unmindful of their former
spirits, and the remonstrances of the old ladies, broke forth into
sobs and lamentations, which were nbt to be withstood. We
ngreed, therefore, to tarry until they left for home ; which would
be at the " Aheharar," or Falling of the Sun ; in other words,
at sunset.
When the hour axrive^i, ^^Xx^t m^xODL \iw<^Aai5^^^ -sr^ ^«»

<aiAF. ucxt] WE START FOR TALOO. 278

tkem safeLj asibarked. As the canoe turned a bluff, thej
«eiaed the paddles from the hands of the old men, and waved
them silently in the air. This was meant for a touching fare-
welly as the paddle is onlj waved thus, when the parties sepa-
mtiag never more expect to meet.

' We now continued onr journey ; and following the beach,
soon came to a level and lofty overhanging bank, which, planted
here and there with trees, took a broad sweep round a consider-
able part of the island. A fine pathway skirted the edge of
the bank ; and often we paused to admire the scenery. The
evening was stiU and fair, even for so heavenly a climate ; and
all round, far as the eye could reach, was the blending blue sky
and ocean.

As we went on, the reef-belt still accompanied us ; turning
as we turned, and thundering its distant bass upon the ear, like
the unbroken roar of a cataract. Dashing for ever against their
coral rampart, the breakers looked, in the distance, like a line of
rearing white chargers, reined in, tossing their white manes,
and bridling with foam.

These great natural breakwaters are admirably designed for
the protection of this land. Nearly all the Society Islands are
defended by them. Were the vast swells of the Pacific to break
against the soft alluvial bottoms which in many places border
the sea, the soil would soon be washed away, and the natives
be thus deprived of their most productive lands. As it is, the
banks of no rivulet are firmer.

But the coral barriers answer another purpose. They form
all the harbours of this group, including the twenty-four round
about the shores of Tahiti. Curiously enough, the openings in
the reefs, by which alone vessels enter to their anchorage, are
invariably opposite the] mouths of running streams : an ad-
vantage fully appreciated by the mariner who touches for the
purpose of watering his ship.'

It is said, that the fresh water of the land, mixing with the
salts held in solution by the sea, so acts upon the latter, as to
resist the formation of the coral ; and hence the breaks. Here
and there, these openings are sentinelled, as it were, by little
fairy islets, green as emerald, and waving w\\k ^^iXm&. ^\x«sl^^
and beautifully diversifying the long ^ne oi \>x^ikRX^> "«^^ ^^^^^.^

274 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. lxm.

can strike the fancy more vividly. Fomaree IL, with a taste
in watering-places truly Tahitian, selected one of them as a
royal retreat. We passed it on our journey.

Omitting several further adventures which befell us after
leaving the party from Loohooloo, we must now hurry on, to
relate what happened just before reaching the place of our
destination.

OOAP. uura.] A DEALER IN THE CONTRABAND. 27S

CHAPTER LXXn.

A Dealer in the Contraband.

It must have been at least the tenth dsj, reckoning from the
Hegira, that we found ourselves the guests o£ Yarvj, an old
hermit of an islander, who kept house bj himself, perhaps a
couple of leagues from Taloo.

A stone's cast from the beach there was a fantastic rock,
moss-grown, and deep in a delL It was insulated bj a shallow
brook, which, dividing its waters, flowed on both sides, until
united below. Twisting its roots round the rock, a gnarled
*^ Aoa" spread itself overhead in a wilderness of foliage; the
elastic branch-roots depending from the larger boughs, in«
fiinuating themselves into every cleft, thus forming supports to
the parent stem. In some places, these pendulous branches,
half-grown, had not jet reached the rock ; swinging their loose
fibrous ends in the air like whiplashes.

Varvy's hut, a mere coop of bamboos, was perched upon a
level part of the rock, the ridge-pole resting at one end in a
crotch of the " Aoa," and the other propped by a forked bough
planted in a Assure.

Notwithstanding our cries as we drew near, the first hint the
old hermit received of our approach, was the doctor's stepping
up and touching his shoulder, as he was kneeling over on a
stone, cleaning fish in the brook. He leaped up, and stared at
us. But with a variety of uncouth gestures, he soon made u»
welcome ; informing us, by the same means, that he was both
deaf and dumb ; he then motioned us into his dwelling.

Going in, we threw ourselves upon an old mat, and peered
round. The soiled bamboos and calabashes looked so uninviting,,
that the doctor was for pushing on to Taloo that night, not-
withstanding it was near sunset. But at length we concluded
to stay where we were.

A/J^ a good deal ot bustling o\itdd<& \xii4et ^ ^'W2t«^\\» ^^^

X 2

276 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [ceap.£xzil

the old man made his appearance with our supper. In one
hand he held a flickering taper, and in the other a huge, flat
calabash, scantily filled with viands. His eyes were dancing in
his head, and he looked firom the calabash to us, and from us
to the calabash, as much as to say, ^* Ah, my lads, what do ye
think of this, eh? Pretty good cheer, eh?** But the fish and
Indian turnip being none of the best, we made but a sorry
meal. While discussing it, the old man tried hard to make
himself understood by signs ; most o( which were so excessively
ludicrous, that we made no doubt he was perpetrating a series
of pantomimic jokes.

The remnants of the feast removed, our host left ua for a
moment, returning with a calabash of portly dimensions, and
furnished with a long hooked nedv, the mouth of which wm
stopped with a wooden plug. It was covered with particles
of earth, and looked as if just taken from some place under
ground.

With sundry winks and horrible giggles, peculiar to the
dumb, the vegetable demijohn was now tapped; the old fellow
lodging round cautiously, and pointing at it; as much as to
intimate, that it contained something which was ^^taboo^' or
forbidden.

Aware that intoxicating liquors were strictly prohibited to
the natives, we now watched our entertainer with much in-
terest. Charging a cocoa-nut shell he tossed it ofl^ jaidl then
filling it up again, presented the goblet to me. Disliking the
smell, I made faces at it ; upon which he became highly excited;
so much so, that a miracle was wrought upon the spot. Snatdt^
ing the cup from my hand^ he shouted out, *^ Ah, karhowree
isabbee lee-lee, ena arva tee maitai!" in other words. What a
blockead of a white man ! this is the real stuff!

We could not have been more startled, had a irog leaped
from his mouth. For an instant, he looked confused enough
liimself ; and then, placing a finger mysteriously upon his montii,
he contrived to make us understand, that at times he was sulgect
to a suspension of the powers of speech.

Deeming the phenomenon a remarkable one, every way, the
doctor desired Imn to opea \i\^ moM^i^ci) ^ ^S&aX V^\aii^ht have a
(look down* But be xeioaed.

CBAP. Lxxn.] A DEALER IN THE CONTRABAND. 277

This occurrence made us rather suspicious of our host ; nor
could we aflterwards account for his conduct, except by supposing
that his feigning deafness might in some way or other assist
him in the nefarious pursuits in which it afterwards turned out
that he was engaged. This conclusion, however, was not al-
together satis&ctory.

To oblige him, we at last took a sip of his " arva tee," and
found it yerj crude, and strong as Lucifer. Curious to know
whence it was obtained, we questioned him ; when, lighting up
with pleasure, he seized the taper, and led us outside the hut,
bidding us follow.

After going some distance through the wood^ we came to a
dismantled old shed of boughs, apparently abandoned to decay.
Underneath, nothing was to be seen but heaps of decaying
leaves and an immense, clumsy jar, wide-mouthed, and, by some
means, rudely hollowed out from a ponderous stone.

Here, for a while, we were left to ourselves; the old man
placing the light in the jar, and then disappearing. He returned,
carrying a long, large bamboo, and a crotched stick. Throwing
l^ese down, he poked under a pile of rubbishy and brought out
a rough block of wood, pierced through and through with a hole,
which was inmiediately clapped on top of the jar. Then plant-
ing the crotched stick upright about two yards distant, and^
making it sustain one end of the bamboo, he inserted the other
end of the latter into the hole in the block ; concluding these ar^
nmgements, by placing an old calabash under the further end of
Hie bamboo.

Coming up to us now with a sly, significant look, and point-
ing admiringly at his apparatus, he exclaimed, ^' Ah, karhowree,
ena hannahanna arva tee I" as much as to say, ** This, you see,
is the way it's done."

His contrivance was nothing less than a native still, where he
manufactured his island ^' poteen." The disarray in which we
found it was probably intentional, as a security against detec-
tion. Before we left the shed, the old fellow toppled the whole
concern over, and dragged it away piecemeaL

His disclosing his secret to us thus was characteristic of thei
" Tootai Owrees," or contemners of the mia6ionfixl&% %sa«OTk!^'<SQfc
natives ; who, presuming that all foreigiiet^ «Ji^ o^^Ci^^^^*^^^^^^

T5 j

278 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [cHAP.Lxm

ascendencj of the missionaries, take pleasure in making them
confidants, whenever the enactments of their rulers are secretly
set at nought.

The substance from which the liquor is produced is called
*' Tee," which is a large, fibrous root, something like a jam, but
smaller. In its green state, it is exceedingly acrid ; but boiled
or baked has the sweetness of the sugar-cane. After being
subjected to the fire, macerated, and reduced to a certain stage
of fermentation, the " Tee*' is stirred up with water, and is then
ready for distillation.

On returning to the hut, pipes were introduced ; and, after a
while. Long Ghost, who, at first, had relished the " Arva Tee"
as little as myself, to my surprise, began to wax sociable over
it with Varvy; and before long absolutely got mellow, the
old toper keeping him company.

It was a curious sight. Every one knows, that, so long as
the occasion lasts, there is no stronger bond of sympathy and
good feeling among men than getting tipsy together. And
how earnestly, nay, movingly, a brace of worthies thus em-
ployed will endeavour to shed light upon and elucidate their
mystical ideas!

Fancy Varvy and the doctor, then ; lovingly tippling, and
brimming over with a desire to become better acquainted ; the
doctor politely bent upon carrying on the conversation in the
language of his host, and the old hermit persisting in trying to
talk English. The result was, that between the two, they
made such a fricasee of vowels and consonants, that it was
enough to turn one's brain.

The next morning, on waking, I heard a voice from the
tombs. It was the doctor, solemnly pronoxmcing himself a
dead man. He was sitting up, with both hands clasped over
his forehead, and his pale face a thousand times paler than ever.

" That infernal stuff has murdered me ! " he cried. " Heavens I
my head's all wheels and springs, like the automaton chess-
player ! What's to be done, Paul ? Pm poisoned."

But, after drinking an herbal draught, concocted by our
host, and eating a light meal at noon, he felt much better;
80 much, so, that lie deeWe^ \maa>^ x^"^-^ \fs continue our
journey.

cHAF.Lxxn.] A DEALER IN THE CONTRABAND. 27d

When we came to start, the Yankee's boots were missing ;
and, after a diligent search, were not to be found. Enraged
beyond measure, their proprietor said that Varvy must have
stolen them; but, considering his hospitality, I thought this
extremely improbable, though to whom else to impute the
theft I knew not. The doctor maintained, however, that one
who was capable of drugging an innocent traveller with " Arva
Tee" was capable of any thing.

Bat it was in vain that he stormed, and Varvy and I
searched ; the boots were gone.

Were it not for this mysterious occurrence, and Varvy's
detestable liquors, I would here recommend all travellers going
round by the beach to Partoowye to stop at the Rock and
patronise the old gentleman — the more especially as he enter-
tains gratis.

T 4

280 ADVEKTUEES IN THE SOUTH SEAjS. [ckaf.

CHAPTER LXXm.

* Onr Reception in P ar tuawy e . '

Upon starting, at last, I flung away mj sandals — by thiatime
qiiite worn out — with the view of keqping oompanj with ^
doctor, now forced to go barefooted. Recoyering his spirits in
good time, he protested that boots were a bore a£ter all, ajid
going without them decidedly manly^

This was s^id, be it observed, while strolling along overs
soft carpet of grass ; a little moist, even at midday, from Ihe
shade of the wood through which we were passing.

Emerging from this, we entered upon a blank, sandy tract,
upon which the sun's rays fairly flashed; making the loose
gravel under foot well nigh as hot as the floor of an oven.
Such yelling and leaping as there was in getting over this
ground would be hard to surpass. We could not have crossed
at all — until towards sunset — had it not been for a few small,
wiry bushes, growing here and there ; into which we every
now and then thrust our feet to cool. There was no little judg-
ment necessary in selecting your bush ; for if not chosen judi-
ciously, the chances were, that on springing forward again, and
finding the next bush so far off, that an intermediate cooling
was indispensable, you would have to run back to your old
place again.

Safely passing the Sahara, or Fiery Desert, we soothed oar
half-blistered feet by a pleasant walk through a meadow of
long grass, which soon brought us in sight of a few straggling
houses, sheltered by a grove on the outskirts of the village of
Partoowye.

My comrade was for entering the first one we came to ; but,

on drawing near, they had so much of an air of pretension, at

least for native dwellings, that I hesitated ; thinking they might

be the residences of the higher ehiefe, from whom no very ex-

travagaxit welconxe was to \)e asx^d^^\ft^»

CTAP. Lxxm.] CUB RECEPTION IN PARTOOWTB. 281

While standing irresolute, a voice &om the nearest house
hailed us : " Aramai! aramai, karhowree!" ("Come in! crane
in, strangers!")

We at once entered, and were warmly greeted. The master
of the house was an aristocratic-loddng islander ; dressed in
loose Hnen drawers, a fine white shirty and a sash of red a3k
tied about the waist, after the fashion of the Spaniards in ChilL
He came up to us with a free, frank air, and, striking his chest
with his hand, introduced himself as Ereeniear Po-Po ; car
to render the Christian name back again into English —
Jeremiah Po-Po.

These curious combinations of names, among the pec^le of
the Society Islands, originate in the following way. When a
native is baptised, his patronymic often gives offence to the
missionaries, and they insist upon changing to something else
whatever is objectionable therein. So, when Jeremiah came
to the font, and gave his name as Narmo-Nana Po-Po (some*
thing equivalent toThe-Darer-of-Devils-by-Night), the reverend
gentleman officiating told him that such a heathenish appella-
tion would never do, and a substitute must be had ; at least for
the devil part of it. Some highly respectable Christian appelv
Litions were then submitted, from which the candidate for ad-
mission into the church was at liberty to choose. There was
Adamo (Adam), Nooar (Noah), Daveedar (David), Earcobar
(James), Eoma (John), Patoora (Peter), Ereemear (JeremiahX
&c. And thus did he come to be named Jeremiah Po-Po ; or,
Jeremiah-in-the-Dark — which he certainly was, I fancy, as to
the ridiculousness of his new cognomen.

We gave our names in return ; upon which he bade us be
seated.; and sitting down himself, asked us a great many ques-
tions, in mixed English and Tahitian. After giving some
directions to an old man to prepare food, our host's wife, a lai^e,
benevolent-looking woman, upwards of forty, also sat down by
tis. In our soiled and travel-stained appearance, the good lady
seemed to find abundant matter for commiseration ; and all
the while kept looking at us piteously, and making mournful
exclamations.

. But Jeremiah and his spouse were not the only inmatea.c£
the mansion.

282 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, [chap.lxxib.

In one comer, upon a large native couch, elevated upon posts
reclined a nymph ; who, half-veiled in her own long hair, had
yet to make her toilet for the day. She was the only daughter
of Po-Po ; and a very beautiful little daughter she was; not
more than fourteen ; with the most delightful shape — like a bud
just blown ; and large hazel eyes. They called her Loo : a
name rather pretty and genteel, and, therefore, quite appro-
priate ; for a more genteel and lady-like little damsel there was
not in all Imeeo.

She was a cold and haughty young beauty though, this same
little Loo, and never deigned to notice us ; further than now
and then to let her eyes float over our persons, with an expres-
fiion'of indolent indifference. With the tears of the Loohooloo
girls hardly dry from their sobbing upon our shoulders, this
contemptuous treatment stung us not a little.

When we first entered, Po-Po was raking smooth the carpet
of dried ferns which had that morning been newly laid ; and
now that our meal was ready, it was spread on a banana leaf,
right upon this fragrant floor. Here we lounged at our ease ;
eating baked pig and bread-fruit off earthen plates, and using,
for the first time in many a long month, real knives and forks.

These, as well as other symptoms of refinement, somewhat
abated our surprise at the reserve of the little Loo : her parents,
doubtless, were magnates in Partoowye, and she herself was an
heiress.

After being informed of our stay in the vale of Martair, they
were very curious to know on what errand we came to Taloo.
We merely hinted, that the ship lying in the harbour was the
reason of our coming.

Arfretee, Po-Po's wife, was a right motherly body. The
meal over, she recommended a nap; and upon our waking
much refreshed, she led us to the doorway, and pointed down
among the trees ; through which we saw the gleam of water.
Taking the hint, we repaired thither ; and finding a deep shaded
pool, bathed, and returned to the house. Our hostess now sat
down by us; and after looking with great interest at the
doctor's cloak, felt of my own soiled and tattered garments for
the ^lundredth time> and exdsiiOL&^L ^Mntively -^ ^^ Ah nuee

CHAP. Lxxm.] OUR RECEPTION IN PARTOOWYE. 288

nuee oleemanee! oleemanee!" (Alas! thej are very, very old !
very old !)

When Arfretee, good soul, thus addressed us, she thought
she was talking very respectable English. The word ^'nuee*'
is so familiar to foreigners throughout Polynesia, and is so
often used by them in their intercourse with the natives, that
the latter suppose it to be common to all mankind. '^Olee
manee " is the native pronunciation of " old man,'' which, by
Society Islanders talking Saxon, is applied indiscriminately to
all aged things and persons whatsoever.

Going to a chest filled with various European articles, she
took out two suits of new sailor frocks and trowsers ; and pre-
senting them with a gracious smile, pushed us behind a calico
screen, and left us. Without any fastidious scruples, we donned
the garments ; and what with the meal, the nap, and the bath,
we now came forth like a couple of bridegrooms.

Evening drawing on, lamps were lighted. They were very
simple : the half of a green melon, about one-third full of cocoa-
nut oil, and a wick of twisted tappa floating on the surface. As
a night lamp, this contrivance cannot be excelled ; a soft dreamy
light being shed through the transparent rind.

As the evening advanced, other members of the household,
whom as yet we had not seen, began to drop in. There was a
slender young dandy in a gay striped shirt, and whole fathoms
of bright figured calico tucked about his waist, and falling to
the ground. He wore a new straw hat, also, with three distinct
ribbons tied about the crown ; one black, one green, and one
pink. Shoes or stockings, however, he had none.

There were a couple of delicate, olive-cheeked little girls
— twins — with mild eyes and beautiful hair, who ran about
the house, half-naked, like a couple of gazelles. They had a
brother, somewhat younger — a fine dark boy, with an eye like
a woman's. All these were the children of Po-Po, begotten in
lawful wedlock.

Then there were two or three queer-looking old ladies, who
wore shabby mantles of soiled sheeting ; which fitted so badly,
and withal had such a second-hand look, that I at once put
their wearers down as domestic paupers — poor relations^ su^-
ported by the bounty of My Lady Aife^Xfc^. "YVifcl ^<st^ "^'«>^

964 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, \cbaf. Lxxm.

meek old bodies ; said little and ate less ; and either kept their
eyes on the ground, or lifted them up deferentially. The semi-
dyilisation of the island must have had sometldng to do with
making them what they were.

I had almost forgotten Monee, the grinning, old man who
prepared our meaL His head was a shining, bald globe.
Hie had a round little paunchy and 1^ like a cat. He was
Po-Po's factotum — cook, butler, and climber oi the bread-fruit
and cocoa-nut trees ; and, added to all else, a mighty £Eiyourite
with his mistress ; with whom he would sit smoking and gossip-
ing by the hour.

Often you saw the indefatigable Monee working away at a
great rate ; then dropping his employment all at once — never
mind what — run off to a little distance, and after rolling him-
self away in a comer, and taking a nap, jipnp up again, and fiJl
to with fresh vigour.

From a certain something in the behaviour of Po-Po and his
household, I was led to beHeve that he was a pillar of the
church ; though, from what I had seen in Tahiti, I could hardly
reconcile such a supposition with his frank, cordial, unembar-
rassed air. But I was not wrong in my conjecture : Po-Fo
turned out to be a sort of elder, or deacon ; he was also ac-
counted a man of wealth, and was nearly related to a high
chief.

Before retiring, the entire household gathered upon the floor;
and in their midst) he read aloud a chapter from a Tahitian
Bible. Then kneeling with the rest of us, he offered op a
prayer. Uponpts conclusion, all separated without speaking.
These devotions took place regularly every night and morning.
Grace, too, was^invariably said by this family both before and
after eating.

After becoming familiarized with the almost utter destitotiaii
of any thing like practical piety upon these islands, what I ob-
served in our host's house astonished me much. But whatever
others might have been, Po-Po was, in truth, a Christian : the
only one, Arfretee excepted, whom I personally knew to be
sudi, among all the natives of Polynesia.

CHAP. LxziT.] RETIRING FOR THE NIGHT. 285

CHAPTER LXXIV,

Retiring for the Night — The Doctor grows devoat ^

Thet put us to bed very pleasantly.

Lying across the foot of Po-Fo's nuptial couch was a smalls
one, made of Eoar-wood ; a thin, strong cord, twisted from the
fibres of the husk of the cocoa-nut, and woven into an exceed-
•ingly light sort of net-work, forming its elastic body. Spread
upon this was a single, fine mat, with a roll of dried ferns for a
pillow, and a strip of white tappa for a sheet. This couch was
mine. The doctor was provided for in another comer.

Loo reposed alone on a little settee, with a taper burning by
lier side; the dandy, her brother, swinging overhead in a
sailor^s hammock. The two gazelles frisked upon a mat near
by ; and the indigent relations borrowed a scant comer of the
old butler^s pallet, who snored away by the open door. After
fill had retired, Po-Po placed the illuminated melon in ike
middle of the apartment ; and so, we all slumbered till morning.

Upon awaking, the sun was streaming brightly through the
open bamboos, but no one was stirring. After surveying the
fine attitudes, into which forgetfulness nad thrown at least oae
<^ Hie sleepers, my attention was caUed off to the general aspect
of the dwelling, which was quite significant of the superior
circumstances of our host.

The house itself was built in the simple, but tasteful native
style. It was a long, regular oval, some fifty feet in length,
with low sides of cane-work, and a roof thatched with palmetto-
leaves. The ridge-pole was, perhaps, twenty feet from the
ground. There was no foundation whatever ; the bare earth
being merely covered with ferns: a kind of c«x^lYa%^\sL^
serves very weU, if frequeaUy reiQewe&\ o\JasrwSafe^ \^.>aRRssiass*

286 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. um?.

dusty, and the haunt of vermin, as in the huts of the poorer
natives.

Beside the couches, the furniture consisted of three or four
sailor chests ; in which were stored the fine wearing -apparel of
the household — the ruffled linen shirts of Po-Po, the caKco
dresses of his wife and children, and divers odds and ends of
European articles — strings of beads, ribbons, Dutch looking-
glasses, knives, coarse prints, bunches of keys, bits of crockery,
and metal buttons. One of these chests — used as a bandbox by
Arfretee — contained several of the native hats (coal-scuttles),
all of the same pattern, but trimmed with variously coloured
ribbons. Of nothing was our good hostess more proud than
of these hats, and her dresses. On Sundays, she went abroad
dozen times ; and every time, like Queen Elizabeth, in a dif-
ferent robe.

Po-Po, for some reason or other, always gave us our meals
before the rest of the family were served ; and the doctor, who
was very discerning in such matters, declared that we fared
much better than they. Certain it was, that had Ereemear's
guests travelled with purses, portmanteaux, and letters of intro-
duction to the queen, they could not have been better cared for.

The day after our arrival, Monee, the old butler, brought us
in for dinner a small pig, baked in the ground. All savoury, it
lay in a wooden trencher, surrounded by roasted hemispheres
of the bread-fruit. A large calabash, filled with taro pudding,
or poee, followed ; and the young dandy, overcoming his cus^
tomary languor, threw down our cocoa-nuts from an adjoining
tree.

"When all was ready,' and the household looking on. Long
Ghost, devoutly clasping his hands over the fated pig, implored
a blessing. Hereupon, every body present looked exceedingly
pleased ; Po-Po coming up, and addressing the doctor with much
warmth; and ArfretQC, regarding him with almost maternal
afiection, exclaimed delightedly, '^ Ah ! mickonaree tata maitail''
in other words, " What a pious young man!"

It was just after this meal, that she brought me a roll of grass

sinuate (of the kind which sailors sew into the frame of their

tarpaulins)^ and then, liaiidm^m<&«bii^%.^<^^wd thread, bade me

begin at oncCi and make mj^^ li)iafc Vi^X Vav^ \. ^«i tss^

CHAP. Lxxivj RETIRING FOR THE NIGHT. 287

needed. An accomplished hand at the business, I finished it
that day — merely stitching the braid together ; and Arfretee,
by way of rewarding my industry, with her own olive hands
ornamented the crown wi^ a band of flame-coloured ribbon ; the
two long ends of which streaming behind, sailor-fashion, still
preserved for me the Eastern title bestowed by Long Ghost.

9M ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [cKikP. uunr.

CHAPTER LXXV.

A Ramble through the Settlement.

The following morning, making our toilets carefully, we donned
our sombreros, and sallied out on a tour. Without meaning
to reveal our designs upon the court, our principal object was,
to leam what chances there were for white men to obtain
employment under the queen. On this head, it is true, we had
questioned Po-Po ; but his answers had been very discouraging;
80 we determined to obtain further information elsewhere.

But first, to give some little description of the village.

The settlement of Partoowye is nothing more than some
eighty houses, scattered here and there, in the midst of an im-
mense grove, where the trees have been thinned out, and the
underbrush cleared away. Through the grove flows a stream;
and the principal avenue crosses it, over an elastic bridge of
cocoa-nut trunks, laid together side by [side. The avenue is
broad and serpentine ; well shaded, £rom one end to the other ;
and as pretty a place for a morning promenade as any lounger
could wish. The houses, constructed without the slightest regard
to the road, peep into view from among the trees on either side ;
some looking you right in the face as you pass, and others,
without any manners, turning their backs. Occasionally, you
observe a rural retreat, inclosed by a picket of bamboos, or with
a solitary pane of glass massively framed in the broadside of
the dwelling, or with a rude, strange-looking door, swinging
upon dislocated wooden hinges. Otherwise, the dwellings are
built in the original style of the natives ; and, never mind how
mean and filthy some of them may appear within, they all look
picturesque enough without.

As we sauntered along, the people we met saluted us plea-
santly, and invited us into t\ievi\iw3i^^^\ ^TAS3CL\k\&vray we
made a good many brief monmi^ eaX\a% '^xiX ^^ Vwa ^^^^

cHAP.Lxxv.] A RAMBLE THROUGH THE SETTLEMENT. 289

not have been the fashionable one in Partoowye; since the
ladies were invariably in dishabille. However, they in all
xiSises gave ns a cordial reception, and were particularly polite
to the doctor ; caressing him, and amorously hanging about his
neck ; wonderfully taken up, in short, with a gay handkerchief
he wore there. Arfretee had that morning bestowed it upon
the pious youth.

With some exceptions, the general appearance of the natives
of Partoowye was far better than that of the inhabitants of
Papeetee : a circumstance only to be imputed to their restricted
intercourse with foreigners.

Strolling on, we turned a sweep of the road, when the doctor
gave a start ; and no wonder. Right before us, in the grove,
was a block of houses : regular square frames, boarded over,
furnished with windows and doorways, and two stories high.
We ran up, and found them fast going to decay ; very dingy,
and here and there covered with moss ; no sashes nor doors ;
and on one side, the entire block had settled down nearly a
foot. On going into the basement, we looked clean up through
the unboarded timbers to the roof ; where rays of light, glim-
mering through many a chink, illuminated the cobwebs which
«wung all round.

The whole interior was dark and close. Burrowing among
some old mats in one comer, like a parcel of gipseys in a ruin,
were a few vagabond natives. They had their dwelling here.

Curious to know who on earth could have been thus trying
to improve the value of real estate in Partoowye, we made
inquiries ; and learned that some years previous, the block
had been thrown up by a veritable Yankee (one might have
known that), a house carpenter by trade, and a bold enter-
prising fellow by nature.

Put ashore from his ship, sick, he first went to work and got
well ; then sallied out with chisel and plane, and made himself
generally useful. A sober, steady man, it seems, he at last
obtained the confidence of several chiefs, and soon filled them
with all sorts of ideas concerning the alarming want of public
spirit in the people of Lneeo. More especially did he dwell
upon the humiliating fact of their living in ^^itrj \iMfc^ ^^ Xswss^r

• TI

290 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEA& [chap* ucxy.

boo, when magnificent palaces of boards migbt so easily be
morticed together.

In the end, these representations so far prevailed with one
old chief, that the carpenter was eaigaged to build a batdi of
these wonderful palaces. Provided with plenty of men, he at
once set to work ; built a saw-mill among the mountains, felled
trees, and sent over to Papeetee for nails.

Presto ! the castk rose ; but alas, the roof was hardly on,
when the Yankee's patron, having speculated beyond his means,
broke all to pieces, and was absolutely unable to pay one " plug"
of tobacco in the pound, ffis failure involved the carpenter,
who sailed away from his creditors in the very next ship that
touched at the harbour.

The natives despised the rickety palace of boards ; and often
lounged by, wagging their heads, and jeering.

We were told that the queen's residence was at the extreme
end of the village ; so, without waiting for the doctor to procure
a fiddle, we suddenly resolved upon going thither at once, and
learning whether any privy councillorships were vacant.

Now, although there ^was a good deal of my waggish cc«n-
rade's nonsense about what has been said concerning our ex-
pectations of court preferment, we, nevertheless, really thought
that something to our advantage might turn up in that quarter.

On approaching the palace grounds, we found them rather
peculiar. A broad pier of hewn coral rocks was built right
out into the water ; and upon this, and extending into a grove
adjoining, were some eight or ten very large native hooses,
constructed in the handsomest style, and inclosed together by t
low picket of bamboos, which embraced a considerable area.

Throu^out the Society Islands, the residences of the duefe
are mostly found in the immediate vidnity of the sea ; a site
which gives them the full benefit of a cooling breeze ; nor are
they so liable to the annoyance of insects ; besides enjoying
when they please the fine shade afforded by the neighbouring
groves, always most luxuriant near the water.

Lounging about the grounds were some sixty or ei^ity
handsomely dressed natives, men and women ; some reclimiig
on the shady side of t\ie \io\]&&^) Q<]bfix& \uider the trees, and a
small group conversing; c\oae\>^ \X\feT«Kai%^i^\k%N>&,

CHAP.LXxv.] A RAMBLE THROUGH THE SETTLEMENT. 291

We went up to the latter ; and giving the usual salutation,
were on the point of vaulting over the bamboos, when they turned
upon us angrily, and said we could not enter. We stated our
earnest desire to see the queen ; hinting that we were bearers
of important dispatches. But it was to no purpose ; and not
a little vexed, we were obliged to return to Po-Po's without
effecting any thing.

292 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, lxxvl

CHAPTER LXXVI.

An Island Jilt. — We visit the Ship.

Upon arriving home, we fuUj 'laid open to Po-Po our motives
in visiting Taloo, and begged his friendly advice. In his
broken English, he cheerfully gave us all the^ information we
needed.

It was true, he said, that the queen entertained some idea of
making a stand against the French ; and it was currently re-
ported, also, that several chiefs from Borabora, Huwyenee,
Raiatair, and Tahar, the leeward islands of the group, were at
that very time taking counsel with her, as to the expediency of
organizing a general movement throughout the entire cluster,
with a view of anticipating any further encroachments on the
part of the invaders. Should warlike measures be actually de-
cided upon, it was quite certain that Pomaree would be glad to
enlist all the foreigners she could ; but as to her making officers
of either the doctor or me, that was out of the question ; be-
cause, already, a number of Europeans, well known to her, had
volunteered as such. Concerning our getting immediate access
to the queen, Po-Po told us it was rather doubtful ; she living
at that time very retired, in poor health and spirits, and averse
to receiving calls. Previous to her misfortunes, however, no
one, however humble, was denied admittance to her presence ;
sailors, even, attended her levees.

Not at all disheartened by these things, we concluded to kill
time in Partoowye, until some event turned up more favourable
to our projects. So that very day we sallied out on an excur-
sion to the ship, which, lying land-locked, far up the bay, yet
remained to be visited.

Passing, on our route, a long, low shed, a voice hailed us —

'^ White men, ahoy \ " Turmn^ TO\mfiL^ ^\yci should we see but

B roajr-cheeked Englishman (joxx wvi^.^ \.^\s» ^\s^kq^ ^v

CHAP, lxxvl] an island JILT. 293

glance), up to his knees in shavings, and planing away at a
bench. He turned out to be a runaway ship's carpenter, re-
cently from Tahiti, and now doing a profitable busini^ss in
Imeeo, by fitting up the dwellings of opulent chiefs with cup-
boards and other conveniences, and once in a while trying his
hand at a lady's work-box. He had been in the settlement but
a few months, and already possessed houses and lands.

But though blessed with prospeifity and high health, there
was one thing wanting — a wife. And when he came to speak
of the matter, his countenance fell, and he leaned dejectedly
upon his plane.

" It's too bad ! " he sighed, " to wait three long years ; and
all the while, dear little Lullee living in the same house with
that infernal chief from Tahar ! "

Our curiosity was piqued ; the poor carpenter, then, had been
falling in love with some island coquet, who was going to jilt
him.

But such was not the case. There was a law prohibiting,
under a heavy penalty, the marriage of a native with a foreigner,
unless the latter, after being three years a resident on the
island, was willing to affirm his settled intention of remaining
for life.

William was therefore in a sad way. He told us that he
might have married the girl half-a-dozen times, had it not been
for this odious law ; but, latterly, she had become less loving
and more giddy, particularly with the strangers from Tahar.
Desperately smitten, and desirous of securing her at all ha-
zards, he had proposed to the damsel's friends a nice little ar-
rangement, introductory to marriage ; but they would not hear
of it ; besides , if the pair were discovered living together upon
such a footing, they would be liable to a degrading punish-
ment, — sent to work making stone walls and opening roads for
the queen.

Doctor Long Ghost was all sympathy. " Bill, my good fel-
low," said he, tremulously, " let me go and talk to her." But
Bill, declining the offer, would not even inform us where his
charmer lived.

Leaving the disconsolate Willie plsoim^ w. ^\%xJs^ ^S.^<ss«
Zealand pine (axi importation from. t\ie 'B^'j ol \^«eA^'» «si^

294 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, [chap.lxxti.

thinking the while of Lullee, we went on our way. How his
suit prospered in the end, we never learned.

Groing from Po-Po's house towards the anchorage of the har-
bour of Taloo, you catch no glimpse of the water, until coming
out from deep groves, you all at once find yourself upon the
beach. A bay, considered by many voyagers the most beauti-
ful in the South Seas, then lies before you. You stand upon
one side of what seems a deep, green river, flowing through
mountain passes to the sea. Eight opposite, a majestic promon-
tory divides the inlet from another, called after its discoverer,
Captain Cook. The face of this promontory toward Taloo is
one verdant wall ; and at its base the waters lie still, and fa-
thomless. On the left hand, you just catch a peep of the widen-
ing mouth of the bay, the break in the reef by which ships
enter, and beyond, the sea. To the right, the inlet, sweeping
boldly round the promontory, runs far away into the land;
where, save in one direction, the hills close in on every side,
krfee-deep in verdure, and shooting aloft in grotesque peaks.
The open space lies at the head of the bay ; in the distance it
extends into a broad, hazy plain lying at the foot of an amphi-
theatre of hills. Here is the large sugar plantation previously
alluded to. Beyond the first range of hills, you descry the
sharp pinnacles of the interior ; and among these, the same
silent Marling-spike which we so often admired from the other
side of the island.

All alone in the harbour lay the good ship Leviathan. We
jumped into the canoe, and paddled off to her. Though eariy
in the afternoon, every thing was quiet ; but upon mounting
the -side, we found four or ^ye sailors lounging about the fore-
castle, under an awning. They gave us no very cordial re-
ception ; and though otherwise quite hearty in appearance,
seemed to assume a lock of iU-humour on purpose to honour
our arrival. There was much eagerness to learn whether we
Wanted to " ship ; " and by the unpleasant accounts they gave
of the vessel, they seemed desirous to prevent such a thingi
If possible.

We asked where the rest of the ship's company were; a
gruff old fellow made answer, ** OTifc\iQ«!C^ crow ^Vm. v& ^ne
to Davy Jones's locker : — ^eii\. c« «S<«t ti. ^YiCl^X^x. ^snfefc^

CHAP, ixxvi.] VISIT TO THE SHIP. 295

and never came back agin. All the starboard watch ran away
last night, and the skipper's ashore kitching 'em."

" And it's shippingljer after, my jewels, is it ? " cried a curly-
pated little Belfast sailor, coming up to us, " thin arrah ! my
livelies, jist be after sailing ashore in a jiffy: — the devil of a
skipper will carry yees both to sea, whether or no. Be off wid
ye, thin, darlints, and steer clear of the Hkes of this ballyhoo
of blazes as long as ye live. They murther us here every day,
and starve us into the bargain. Here, Dick, lad, harl the poor
divils' canow alongside; and paddle away wid yees for dear
life."

But we loitered awhile, listening to more inducements to
ship ; and at last concluded to stay to supper. My sheath-
knife never cut into better sea-beef than that whieh we found
lying in the kid in the forecastle. The breads too^ was hard,
dry, and brittle as glass ; and there was plenty of both.

While we were below, the mate of the vessel called out fwr
some one to come on deck. I liked hia voice. Hearing it was
as good as a look at his face. It betokened a true sailor, and
no taskmaster.

The appearance of the Leviathan herself was quite pleasing.
Like ail large, comfortable old whalemen, she had a sort o£
motherly look : — broad in the beam, flush decksy and four chub-
by boats hanging at the breast. Her sails were furled loosely
ijqpon the yards, as if they had been worn long, and fitted easy ;
her shrouds swung negligently slack ; and as for the '^ running
i^ggiiig)" i^ never worked hard as it does in some of your
^^ dandy ships," jamming in the sheaves of blocks, like Chinese
^spers, too smaU to be useful ; on the contrary, the ropes ran
glibly through, as if they had many a time travelled the same
road, and were used to it.

When evening came, we dropped into our canoe, and pad-
dled ashore ; fuUy convinced that the good ship never deserved
the name which they gave her.

296 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [cHAP.LZzm

CHAPTER LXXVn.
A Party of Royere. — Little Loo and the Doctor.

While in Partoowye, we fell in with a band of six veteran
rovers, prowling about the village and harbour, who had just
come overland from another part of the island.

A few weeks previous, they had been paid off, at Papeetee,
from a whaling vessel, on board of which they had, six months
before, shipped for a single cruise ; that is to saj, to be dis-
charged at the next port. Their cruise was a famous one ; and
each man stepped upon the beach at Tahiti, jingling his dollars
in a sock.

Weary at last of the shore, and having some money left,
they clubbed, and purchased a sail-boat ; proposing a visit to
a certain uninhabited island, concerning which thej had heard
strange and golden stories. Of course, they never could think
of going to sea without a medicine-chest filled with flasks of
spirits, and a small cask of the same in the hold, in case the
chest should give out.

Away they sailed ; hoisted a flag of their own, and gave three
times three, as they staggered out of the bay of Papeetee with
a strong breeze, and under all the " muslin " they could carry.

Evening coming on, and feeling in high spirits, and no ways
disposed to sleep, they concluded to make a night of it ; which
they did ; all hands getting tipsy, and the two masts going
over the side about midnight, to the tune of

" Sailing down, sailing down.
On the coast of Barbaree,"

Fortunately, one worthy could stand, by holding on to the

tiller ; and the rest managed to crawl about, and hack away the

lanjrards of the rigging, so as to break clear from the fallen

spars. While thus employed, t^o ^aSiat^ ^<;i\. tcwvcujiilly over

the side, and went pluxab to t\ie \>o\V>m\ \«AKt ^^^ «rt^T«*!»^

CHAP, ixxvn.] A PARTY OF ROVERS. 297

impression, that they were stepping upon an imaginary wharf,,
to get at their work better.

. After this, it blew quite a gale ; and the commodore, at the
helm, instinetivelj kept the boat before the wind ; and by so
doing, ran over for the opposite island of Imeeo. Crossing the
channel, by almost a miracle they went straight through an
opening in the reef, and shot upon a ledge of coral, where the
waters were tolerably smooth. Here they lay until morning,
when the natives came off to them in their canoes. By the
help of the islanders, the schooner was hove over on her beam*
ends ; when, finding the bottom knocked to pieces, the adven-
turers sold the boat for a trifie to the chief of the district, and
went ashore, rolling before them their precious cask of spirits.
Its contents soon evaporated, and they came to Partoowye.

The day after encountering these fellows, we were strolling
among the groves in the neighbourhood, when we came across
several parties of natives, armed with clumsy muskets, rusty
cutlasses, and outlandish dubs. They were beating the bushes,
shouting aloud, and apparently tiying to scare somebody. They
were in pursuit of the strangers, who, having in a single night
set at nought all the laws of the place, had thought best to
decamp.

In the daytime, Po-Po's house was as pleasant a lounge aa
one could wish. So, after strolling about, and seeing all there
was to be seen, we spent the greater part of our mornings there ;
breakfasting late, and dining about two hours after noon. Some-
times we lounged on the floor of ferns, smoaking, and teUing
stories ; of which the doctor had as many as a half-pay captain
in the army. Sometimes we chatted, as well as we could, with
the natives ; and, one day — joy to us ! — Po-Po brought in three
volumes of Smollett's novels, which had been found in the chest
of a sailor, who some time previous had died on the island.

Amelia ! — Peregrine ! — you hero of rogues, Count Fathom ,
— what a debt do we owe you ?

I know not whether it was the reading of these romances^
or the want of some sentimental pastime which led the doctor,
about this period, to lay siege to the heart of the little Loo.

Now, as I have said before, the daughter of Po-Po -w^^ \stf^^
crueUf reserved, and never deigned to noWii^ >3ia. ^x^njasscJ^

sm ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS, [oharulxth.

I adddressed her with, a long faee and an air of the profoundssi
and most distant respect — but in Tain; she wocddn't eien
turn up her pretty c^ye nose. Ab! it's quite plain, thought If
she knows very well what graceless dogs sail<^s are, and won't
hare anj thing to do with us.

But thus thought not mj comrade. Bent he was up<m firing
the cold glitter of Loa's passionless eyes.
• He opened the campaign with admirable tact : making
cautious approaches, and content, for three days, with ogling
the nymph for about five minutes after every meal. On the
fourth day, he asked her a question ; <hi the fifth she dropped
a nut of ointment, and he picked it up and gave it to her ; on
ike sixth, he went over and sat down within three yards of the
couch where she lay; and, on the memorable morn of the
seventh, he proceeded to open his batteries in form.

The damsel was reclining on the ferns ; one hand supporting
her cheek, and the other listlessly turning over the leaves of a
Tahitian Bible. The doctor approached.

Now the chief disadvantage under which he laboured, was his
almost complete ignorance of the love vocabulary of the island.
But French counts^ they say, make love delightfully in broken
English ; and what hindered the doctor from doing the same in
dulcet Tahitian ? So at it he went.

"Ah!" said he, smiling bewitchingly, "oee mickonaree?
oee ready Biblee ? "

No answer ; not even a look.

" Ah ! maitai I very goody ready BiUee miekonaree.'^

Loo, without stirring, began reading, in a law tone, to her-
self.

" Mickonaree Biblee ready goody maitai," once more ob-
served the doctor, ingeniously transposing his words for the
third time.

But all to no purpose ; Loo gave no sign.

He paused despairingly ; but it would never do to give up ;
so he threw himself at full length beside h^, and audaciously
eommenced turning over the leaves.

Loo gave a start, just one little start, hardy perceptil^e^ and
ifeen fiimbling something in \i«t \ia3aSL,\%:j ^t^r^ xaotkxdess ;
the doctor rather frightened «X\i\%oi?TL\«mBcvV5^%36^\3sHWB^

CHAP. Lxxvn.] LITTLE LOO AND THE DOCTOR. «99

not what to do next. At last, he placed one arm cautiously
about her waist ; almost in the same instant he bounded to his
feet, with a cry; the little witch had pierced him with a thorn.
But there she lay just as quietly as ever, turning over the
leaves, and reading to hersel£

My long friend raised the siege incontinently, and made
a disorderly retreat to the place where I reclined, looking on.

I am pretty sure that Loo must have related this occurrence
to her father, who came in shortly afterward ; for he looked
q^early at the doctor. But he said nothing, and in ten minutes
was quite affable as ever. As for Loo, there was not the
sligMest change in her ; and the doctw, of course, for ever
afterwards held his peace.

300 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chaf. Lxxvm.

CHAPTER LXXVm.

Mrs.BelL

Oke day, taking a pensive afternoon stroll along one of the
manj bridle-paths which wind among the shady groves in the
neighbourhood of Taloo, I was startled by a sunny apparition.
It was that of a beautiful young Englishwoman, charmingly
dressed, and mounted upon a spirited little white pony.
Switching a green branch, she came cantering towards me.

I looked round to see whether I could possibly be in Poly-
nesia. There ^were the palm-trees ; but how to account for
the lady ?

Stepping to one side, as the apparition drew near, I made a
polite obeisance. It gave me a bold, rosy look ; and then, with
a gay air, patted its palfrey, crying out, "Fly away, Willie T'
and galloped among the trees.

I would have followed ; but Willie's heels were making such
a pattering among the dry leaves, that pursuit would have been
useless.

So I went straight home to Po-Po's, and related my adven-
ture to the doctor.

. The next day, our inquiries resulted in finding out, that the
stranger had been in the island about two years ; that she came
from Sydney; and was the wife of Mr. Bell (happy dog), the
proprietor of the sugar plantation, to which I have previously
referred.

To the sugar plantation we went the same day.

The country roimd about was very beautiful : a level basin
of verdure, surrounded by sloping hillsides. The sugar-cane
— of which there was about one hundred acres, in various
stages of cultivation — looked thrifty. A considerable tract
of land, however, which seemed to have been formerly tilled,
was now abandoned.
The place where they exlx^cX.^^ ^Ja& ^'ws.OBscrvsxfc \as*XR3t ^«^

CHAP. LxxTm.] MRS. BELL. 501

under an immense shed of bamboos. Here we saw several
clumsy pieces of machinery for breaking the cane ; also great
kettles for boiling the sugar. But, at present, nothing was
going on. Two or three natives were lounging in one of the
kettles, smoking ; the other was occupied by three sailors from
the Leviathan, playing cards.

While we were conversing with these worthies, a stranger
approached. He was a sun-burnt, romantic-looking European,
dressed in a loose suit of nankeen ; his fine throat and chest
were exposed, and he sported a Guayaquil hat, with a brim like
a Chinese umbrella. This was Mr. Bell. He was very civil ;
showed us the grounds, and, taking us into a sort of arbour, to
our surprise, offered to treat us to some wine. People often do
the like ; but Mr. Bell did more : he produced the bottle. It
was spicy sherry ; and we drank out of the halves of fresh citron
melons. Delectable goblets !

The wine was a purchase from the French in Tahiti.

Now all this was extremely polite in Mr. Bell ; still, we came
to see 3Irs. Bell. But she proved to be a phantom, indeed
having left the same morning for Papeetee, on a visit to one
of the missionaries' wives there.

I went home much chagrined.

To be frank, my curiosity had been wonderfully piqued con-
cerning the lady. In the first place, she was the most beautiful
white woman I ever saw in Polynesia. But this is saying no-
thing. She had such eyes, such moss-roses in her cheeks, such
a divine air in the saddle, that, to my dying day, I shall never
forget Mrs. Bell.

The sugar-planter himself was young, robust, and handsome.
So, merrily may the little Bells increase and multiply, and make
music in the land of Lneeo.

902 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. lxhi.

CHAPTER LXXIX.

Taloo OhapeL"— Holding Court in Polynena.

In Partoowye is to be seen one of the best eonstrncted and
handsomest chapels in the South Seas. Like the buildiiigs of
the palace, it stands upon an artificial pier, presenting a fiemi-
circuhur sweep to the bay. The chapel is built of hewn bloob
of coral ; a substance which, although extremely friable, is said
to harden by exposure to the atmosphere. To a stranger, these
blocks look extremely curious. Their surface is covered witk
strange fossil-like impressions, the seal of which must have beea
set before the flood. Very nearly white when hewn iram the
reefs, the coral darkens with age ; so that several churdies in
Polynesia mow look almost as sooty and venerable as famed
St. Paul's.

In shape, the chapel is an octagon, with galleries all round.
It will seat, perhaps, four hundred people. Every thing witiiin
is stained a tawny red ; and there being but few windoiwB, or
rather embrasures, the dusky benches and galleries, and the ti£
spectre of a pulpit, look any thing but che^uL

On Sundays, we always went to worship here. Going in ihc
family suite of Po-Po, we, of course, maintained a most decoroui
exterior ; and hence, by all the elderly people of the village^
were doubtless regarded as pattern young men.

Po-Po's seat was in a snug comer; and it being partieulad^
snug, in the inmiediate vicinity of one of the Palm pillars sup
porting the gallery, I invariably leaned against it : Po-Po and
his lady on one side, the doctor and the dandy on the other, and
the children and poor relations seated behind.

As for Loo, instead of sitting (as she ought to have done) by

her good father and mother, she must needs run up into the

gallery, and sit with a parcel of giddy creatures of her own age;

who, all through the sermoii, did nothing but look down on the

congregation ; pointing o\xt, wi^ %^%^^% ^\»VX\fcQj5MSi^TAs»kin^

csAP. Lxxnt ] TALOO CHAPEL. 3O8

old ladies in dawdj bonnets and scant tunics. But Loo herself
was Bever guilty of these improprieties.

Occasionally during the week, they have afternoon service in
the chapel, when the natives themselves have something to say ;
although their auditors are but few. An introductory prayer
being offered by the missionary, and a hymn sung, communicants
rise in liieir places, and exhort in pure Tahitian, and with won-
derful tone and gesture. And amcmg them all, Deacon Po-Fo^
though he talked most, was the one whom you would have liked
best to hear. Much would I have given to have imderstood
«oime of his impassioned bursts ; when he tossed his arms over-
head, stamped, scowled, and glared, till he looked like the very
Angel €£ Vengeance.

^' Deluded man ! " sighed the doctor, on one of these occasi^u^
" I fear he takes l^e fanatical view of the subject." One thing
was certain ; when Po-Po spoke, all listened ; a gi^eat deal more
than coidd be said for the rest ; for under the disc^line of two
or three I could mention, some of the audience napped ; othere
fidgeted ; a few yawned ; and one irritable old gentleman, in a
night-cap of cocoa-nut leaves, used to clutch his long staff in a
state of excessive nervousness, and stride out of the churdb^
making all the noise he could, to emphasise his disgust.

IBight ac^oining the chapel is an immense, rickety building,
with windows and shutters, and a hsJf-decayed board flooring
laid upon trunks of palm-trees. They called it a school-house.;
but as such we never saw it occupied. It was ofiben used as a
<sourt-room, however; and here we attended several trials;
imiong others, that of a decayed naval officer, and a young girl
of fourteen ; the latter, charged with .having been very naughty
on a particular occasion, set forth in the pleadings ; and the £or~
mer, with having aided and abetted her in her naughtiness, and
with other misdemeanors.

The foreigner was a tall, military-looking fellow, with a daifc
daeek and black whiskers. According to his own account, he
had lost a colonial armed brig on the coast of New Zealand ;
and since then, had been leading the life of a man about town,
among the islands of the Pacific.

The doctor wanted to know why he did not go home and
r€^rt the loss of ids brig ; but Caj^tsaxi Onii^) «& ^^1 «s^&s^

304 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap.

him, had some incompreliensible reasons for not doing so, about
which he could talk by the hour, and no one be any the wiser.
Probably, he was a ^screet man, and thought it best to waive
an interview with the lords of the admiralty.

For some time past, this extremely suspicious character had
been carrying on an illicit trade in PVench wines and brandies,
smuggled over from the men-of-war lately touching at Tahiti.
In a grove near the anchorage, he had a rustic shanty and
arbour ; where, in quiet times, when no ships were in Taloo, a
stray native once in a while got boozy, and staggered home,
catching at the cocoa-nut trees as he went. The captain himself
lounged under a tree during the warm afternoons, pipe in mouth;
thinking, perhaps, over old times, and occasiondly feeling his
shoulders for his lost epaulets.

But, sail ho ! a ship is descried coming into the bay. Soon,
she drops her anchor in its waters ; and the next day Captain
Crash entertains the sailors in his grove. And rare times they
have of it, — drinking and quarrelling together, as sociably as
you please.

Upon one of these occasions, the crew of the Leviathan made
so prodigious a tumult, that the natives, indignant at the insult
offered their laws, plucked up a heart, and made a dash at the
rioters, one hundred strong. The sailors fought like tigers; but
were at last overcome, and carried before a native tribunal;
which, after a mighty clamour, dismissed every body but Captain
Crash, who was asserted to be the author of the disorders.

Upon this charge, then, he had been placed in confinement
against the coming on of the assizes ; the judge being expected
to lounge along in the course of the afternoon. While waiting
his Honour's arrival, numerous additional offences were pre-
ferred against the culprit (mostly by the old women) ; among
others was the bit of a slip in which he stood implicated along
with the young lady. Thus, in Polynesia as elsewhere; —
charge a man with one misdemeanor, and all his peccadilloes
are raked up and assorted before him.

Going to the school-house for the purpose of witnessing the

trial, the din of it assailed our ears a long way off; and upon

entering the building we ^«te «lmo«t stunned. About ive

hundred natives were present*, e«k^ w$^«x^Tsi^^^^ffl^siYa^

CHAP. Lxxix.] COURT IN POLYNESIA, a05

thing to say, and determined to say it. His Honour — a hand*
some, benevolent-looking old man — sat cross-legged on a lit^
platform ; seemingly resigned with all Christian submission to
the uproar. He was an hereditary chief in this quarter of the
island, and judge for life in the district of Partoowye.

There were sevei*al cases coming on ; but the captain and
girl were first tried together. They were mixing freely with
the crowd ; and as it afterward turned out that every one, no
matter who, had a right to address the court, for aught we
knew they might have been arguing their own case. At what
precise moment the trial began, it would be hard to say. There
was no swearing of witnesses, and no regular jury.* Now and
then somebody leaped up and shouted out something which
might have been evidence ; the rest, meanwhile, keeping up an
incessant jabbering. Presently, the old judge himself began to
get excited ; and springing to his feet, ran in among the crowd,
wagging his tongue as hard as any body.

The tumult lasted about twenty minutes; and toward the
end of it, Captain Crash might have been seen, tranquilly re-
garding, from his Honour s platform, the judicial uproar, in
which his fate was about being decided.

The result of all this was, that both he and the girl were
found guilty. The latter was adjudged to make six mats for
the queen ; and the former, in consideration of his manifold
offences, being deemed incorrigible, was sentenced to eternal
banishment from the island. Both these decrees seemed to
originate in the general hubbub. His Honour, however, ap-
peared to have considerable authority, and it was quite plain
that the decision received his approval.

The above penalties were by no means indiscriminately in-
flicted. The missionaries have prepared a sort of penal tariff
to facilitate judicial proceedings. It costs so many days' labour
on the Broom Road to indulge in the pleasures of the calabash;
so many fathoms of stone wall to steal a musket ; and so on to
the end of the catalogue. The judge being provided with a

* This anomaly exists, notwithstanding that, in other respects, the mis-
sionaries have endeaToored to organise the native courts upon the English
model.

306 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, lxxix.

book, in which all these matters are cunningly arranged, the
thing is vastly convenient. For instance : a crime is proved, —
say? bigamy ; turn to letter B. — and there you have it. Biga-
my : — forty days on the Broom Road, and twenty mats for the
queen. Read the passage aloud, and sentence is pronounced.

After taking part in the first trial, the other delinquents
present were put upon their own; in which, also, the con-
victed culprits seemed to have quite as much to say as the rest.
A rather strange proceeding ; but strictly in accordance with
the glorious English principle, that every man should be tried
by his peers.

They were all found guilty.

CHAP. Lxxx.] QUEEN POMAREE. 307

CHAPTER LXXX.

*'- Queen Pomaree.

It is well to learn something about people before being
introduced to them ; and so, we will here give some account
of Pomaree and her family.

Every reader of Cook's Voyages must remember " Otoo,"
who, in that navigator's time, was king of the larger peninsula
of Tahiti. Subsequently, assisted by the muskets of the
Bounty's men, he extended his rule over the entire island.
This Otoo, before his death, had his name changed into
Pomaree, which has ever since been the royal patronymic.

He was succeeded by his son, Pomare|e II., the most famous
prince in the annals of Tahiti. Though a sad debauchee and
drunkard, and even charged with unnatural crimes, he was a
great friend of the missionaries, and one of their very first
proselytes. During the religious wars into which he waff
hurried, by his zeal for the new faith, he was defeated, and-
expelled from the island. After a short exile, he returned
from Imeeo, with an army of eight hundred warriors ; and,
in the battle of Narii, routed the rebellious pagans with great
slaughter, and reestablished himself upon the throne. Thus,
by force of arms was Christianity finally triumphant in Tahiti.

Pomaree II., dying in 1821, was succeeded by his infant
son, under the title of Pomaree III. This young prince sur-
vived his father but six years; and the government then
descended to his elder sister, Aimata, the present queen, who
is commonly called Pomaree Vahinee I., or the first female
Pomaree. Her Majesty must be now upwards of thirty years
of age. She has been twice married. Her first husband was
a son of the old King of Tahar, an island about one hundred
miles fi*om Tahiti. This proving an unhappy alliance, the pair
were soon after divorced. The present husband of the queen
j8 a chief of Imeeo,

X 2

308 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. lxxx.

The reputation of Pomaree is not what it ought to be. She,
and also her mother, were, for a long time, excommunicated
members of the Church ; and the former, I believe, still is.
Among other things, her conjugal fidelity is far from being
unquestioned. Indeed, it was upon this ground chiefly that
she was excluded from the conmiunion of the Church.

Previous to her misfortunes, she spent the greater portion of
her time sailing about from one island to another, attended by
a licentious court; and wherever she went, all manner of games
and festivities celebrated her arrivaL

She was always given to display. For several years the
maintenance of a regiment of household troops drew largely
upon the royal exchequer. They were trowserless fellows, in
a uniform of calico shirts and pasteboard hats ; armed with
muskets of all shapes and calibres and commanded by a great
noisy chief, strutting it in a coat of fiery red. These heroeff
escorted their mistress whenever she went abroad.

Some time ago, the queen received from her English sister,
Victoria, a very showy, though uneasy, headdress — a crown;
probably made to order, at some tinman's in London. Having
no idea of reserving so pretty a bauble for coronation days,
which comea so seldom, her majesty sported it whenever she
i^peared in public ; and, to show her familiarity with European
customs, politely touched it to all foreigners of distinction —
whaling captains and the like — whom she happened to naeet in
her evening walk on the Brocmi Road.

The arrival and departure of royalty were always announced
at the palace by the court artilleryman — a fat old gentleman,
who, in a prodigious hurry and perspiration, discharged minute
fowling-pieces, as fast as he could load and fire the same. ,

The Tahitian princess leads her husband a hard life. Poor
felbw! he not only caught a que^i, but a Tartar, when he
married her. The style by which he is addressed is rather
significant — **Pomaree-Tanee*' (Pomaree's man). All things
eonsidered, as appropriate a title for a king-consort as could be
hit upon.

K ever there was a hen-pecked husband, that man is the
prmcB. One day, his csum-^^sas ^vvn^ audience to a dqpn-
tation from the captaiaa o£ t\L^ n^^^^«» \f«i%'\a.^^^a^«S«^ Wi

CBAP. I.XXX.] QUEEN POMAREE.

Tentured to make a suggestion which was very displeasing to
her. She turned round, and, boxing his ears, told him to go
over to his beggarly ishmd of Imeeo, if he wanted to give
himself airs.

Cuffed and contemned, poor Tanee flies to the bottle, or
rather to the calabash, for solace. Like his wife and mistres8»
he drinks more than he ought.

Six or seven years ago, when an American man-of-war was
lying at Papeetee, the town was thrown into the greatest com-
motion by a conjugal assault and battery, made upon the sacred
person of Pomaree by her intoxicated Tanee.

Obtain Bob once told me the story. And by way of
throwing more spirit into the description, as well as to make
up for his oral deficiencies, the old man went through the
accompanying action : myself being proxy for the Queen of
Tahiti.

It seems, that on a Sunday morning, being dismissed con-
temptuously from the royal presence, Tanee was accosted by
certain good fellows, friends and boon companions, who con-
doled with him on his misfortunes — railed against the queen,
and finally dragged him away to an illicit vender of spirits, in
whose house the party got gloriously mellow. In Uus state,
Pomaree Yahinee I. was the topic upon which all dilated —
** A vixen of a queen," probably suggested (me. " It's infifc-
mous," said another ; ^ and Td have satisfaction," cried a third.
"And so I will!" — Tanee must have hiccoughed; for off he
went; and ascertaining that his royal half was out riding, he
mounted his horse, and galloped after her.

Near the outskirts of the town, a cavalcade of women came
cantering towards him, in the centre of which was the object of
his fury. Smiting his beast right and left, he dashed in among
them; completely overturning one of the party, leaving her
on the field, and dispersing every body else except Pomaree.
Backing her horse dexterously, the incensed queen heaped
upon him every scandalous epithet she could think of; until
at last, the enraged Tanee leaped out of his saddle, caught
Pomaree by her dress, and dragging her to the earth, struck her
repeatedly in the foce, holding on mean'wMl^ \yj Wife \>3Mct ^S.\sfist
bead. He was proceeding to Btrangle \ieT oxi ^^ ^^oX^^^a^^isa.

X 3

310 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. lxxx.

the cries of the frightened attendants brought a crowd of
natives to the rescue, who bore the nearly insensible queen
away.

But his frantic rage was not yet sated. He ran to the
palace ; and before it could be prevented, demolished a valuable
supply of crockery, a recent present from abroad. In the act of
perpetrating some other atrocity, he was seized from behind,
and carried off with rolling eyes and foaming at the mouth.

This is a fair example of a Tahitian in a passion. Though
the mildest of mortals in general, and hard to be roused, when
once fairly up, he is possessed with a thousand devils.

The day following, Tanee was privately paddled over to
Imeeo, in a canoe ; where, after remaining in banishment for a
couple of weeks, he was allowed to return, and once more give
in his domestic adhesion.

Though Pomai'ee Vahinee I. be something of a Jezebel in
private life, in her public rule she is said to have been quite
lenient and forbearing. This was her true policy ; for an
hereditary hostility to her family had always lurked in the
hearts of many powerful chiefs, the descendants of the old
Kings of Taiarboo, dethroned by her grandfather Otoo. Chief
among these, and in fact the leader of his party, was Poofai ; a
bold, able man, who made no secret of his enmity to the
missionaries, and the government which they controlled. But
while events were occurring, calculated to favour the hopes of
the disaffected and turbulent, the arrival of the French gave a
most unexpected turn to affairs.

During my sojourn in Tahiti, a report was rife — which I
knew to originate with what is generally called the " missionary
party** — that Poofai and some other chiefs of note, had actually
agreed, for a stipulated bribe, to acquiesce in the appropriation
of their country. But subsequent events have rebutted the
calumny. Several of these very men have recently died in
battle against the French.

Under the sovereignty of the Pomarees, the great chiefs of

Tahiti were something like the barons of King John. Holding

feudal sway over their patrimonial valleys, and, on account of

their descent, warmly \)eVo\e^ \>^ \\i& ^^qp^^^ ^^i ^x^o^ently

CHAP. Lxjtx.] QUEEN POMAREE. Sll

cut off the royal revenues bj refusing to pay the customary
tribute due from them as TassaLs.

The truth is, that with the ascendency of the missionaries,
the regal office in Tahiti lost much of its dignity and influence.
In the days of Paganism, it was supported by all the power of
a numerous priesthood, and was solemnly connected with the
entire superstitious idolatry of the land. The monarch claimed
to be a sort of by-blow of Tararroa, the Saturn of the Poly-
nesian mythology, and cousin-german to inferior deities. His
person v/as thrice holy ; if he entered an ordinary dwelling,
never mind for how short a time, it was demolish^ when he
left; no common mortal being thought worthy to inhabit it
afterwards.

" I'm a greater man than King George," said the incorrigible
young Otoo, to the first missionaries ! " he rides on a horse, and
I on a man ! " Such was the case. He travelled post through
his dominions on the shoulders of his subjects ; and relays of
immortal beings were provided in all the valleys.

But alas! how times have changed! how transient human
greatness ! Some years since, Pomaree Vahinee L, the grand-
daughter of the proud Otoo, went into the laundry business;
publicly soliciting, by her agents, the washing of the linen be-
longing to the officers of ships touching in her harbours.

It is a significant fact, and one worthy of record, that while
the influence of the English missionaries at Tahiti has tended
to so great a diminution of the regal dignity there, that of the
American missionaries at the Sandwich Islands has been pur-
posely exerted to bring about a contrary result.

X 4

312 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, lxxxl

CHAPTER LXXXI.
We -mat the Oourt

It was about the middle of the second month of the Hegira,
and therefore some five weeks after our arrival in Partoowye,
that we at last obtained admittance to the residence of the
queen.

It happened thus. There was a Marquesan in the train of
Pomaree, who officiated as nurse to h^ children. According
to the Tahitian custom, ^e royal youngsters are carried about
until it requires no small d^ree of strength to stand up under
them. But Marbonna was just the man for this — large and
muscular, well made as a statue, and with an arm like a de-
generate Tahitian's thigh.

Embarking at his native island, as a sailor, on board of a
French whaler, he afterwards ran away from the ship at Ti^ti;
where, being seen and admired by Pomaree, he had been pre-
vailed upon to enlist in her service.

Often, when visiting the grounds, we saw him walking about
in the shade, carrying two handsome boys, who encircled his
neck with their arms. Marbonna's face, tattooed as it was in
the ornate style of his tribe, was as good as a picture-book to
these young Pomarees. They delighted to trace with their
fingers the outlines of the strange shapes there delineated.

The first time my eyes lighted upon the Marquesan, I knew
his country in a moment ; and hailing him in his own language,
he turned round, surprised that a person so speaking should be
a stranger. He proved to be a native of Tior, a glen of Nuku-
heva. I had visited the place more than once ; and so, on the
island of Imeeo, we met like old friends.

In my frequent conversations with him over the bamboo
picket, I found tbis isVan^ex 3l ^VAo^^^x q^ \Na.ture — a wild
heathen, moralising upon t\ie ^ee^ «el^ ^^3^^^ ^1 '^^<^\s»sfioa».

CHAP. Lxxxi.] WE VISIT THE COURT. 81«

court of Tahiti — a savage, scorning the degeneracy of the
people among whom fortune had thrown him.

I was amazed at the national feelings of the man. No Euro-
pean, when abroad, could speak of his country with more pride
than Marbonna. He assured me, again and again, that so soon
as he had obtained sufficient money to purchase twenty muskets
and as many bags of powder, he was going to return to a place,
with which Lneeo was not worthy to be compared.

It was Marbonna, who, after one or two unsuccessful at-
tempts, at last brought about our admission into the queen's
grounds. Through a considerable crowd, he conducted us
along the pier to where an old man was sitting ; to whom he
introduced us as a couple of " karhowrees" of his acquaintance,
anxious to see the sights of the palace. The venerable cham-
berlain stared at us, and shook his head : the doctor, thinking
he wanted a fee, placed a plug of tobacco in his hand. This
was ingratiating, and we were permitted to pass on. Upon
the point of entering one of the houses, Marbonna*s name was
shouted in half-a-dozen different directions, and he was obliged
to withdraw.

Thus left at the very threshold to shift for ourselves, my
companion's assurance stood us in good stead. He stalked right
in, and I followed. The place was full of women, who, instead
of exhibiting the surprise we expected, accosted us as cordially
as if we had called to take our souchong with them, by express
invitation. In the first place, nothing would do but we must
each devour a calabash of ^^ poee," and several roasted bananaa.
Pipes were then lighted, and a brisk conversation ensued.

These ladies of the court, if not very polished, were sur-
prisingly free and easy in their manners.; quite as much so as
King Charles's Beauties. There was one of them — an arch
little miss, who could converse with us pretty fluently — to
whom we strove to make ourselves particularly agreeable, with
the view of engaging her services as cicerone.

As such, she turned out to be every thing we could desire.
No one disputing her will, every place was entered without
ceremony, curtains brushed aside, mtdB lifted, and each nook
and comer explored. Whether the little damsel carried hat
mistress's signet^ that every thing on^'Oft^ Vi \i«c \5D»&^'V>EBssm

314 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, lxxxi.

not; but Marbonna himself, the bearer of infants, could not
have been half so serviceable.

Among other houses which we visited, was one of large size
and fine exterior; the special residence of a European —
formerly the mate of a merchant vessel, — who had done himself
the honour of marrying into the Pomaree family. Tlie lady he
wedded being a near kinswoman of the queen, he became a
permanent member of her majesty's household. This adventurer
rose late, dressed theatrically in calico and trinkets, assumed a
dictatorial tone in conversation, and was evidently upon excellent
terms with himself.

We found him reclining on a mat, smoking a reed-pipe of
tobacco, in the midst of an admiring circle of chiefs and ladies.
He must have noticed our approach ; but instead of rising and
offering civilities, he went on talking and smoking, without even
condescending to look at us.

"Btts Highness feels his 'poee,'" carelessly observed the
doctor. The rest of the company gave us the ordinary saluta-
tion, our guide announcing us beforehand.

In answer to our earnest requests to see the queen, we were
now conducted to an edifice, by far the most spacious, in the
inclosure. It was at least one hundred and fifty feet in length,
very wide, with low eaves, and an exceedingly steep roof of
pandannas leaves. There were neither doors nor windows —
nothing along the sides but the slight posts supporting the
rafters. Between these posts, curtains of fine matting and
tappa were rustling all round ; some of them were festooned,
or partly withdrawn, so as to admit light and air, and afford a
glimpse now and then of what was going on within.

Pushing aside one of the screens, we entered. The apartment
was one immense hall ; the long and lofty ridge-pole fluttering
with Mnged matting and tassels, full forty feet from the ground.
Lounges of mats, piled one upon another, extended on either
side; while here and there were slight screens, forming as
many recesses, where groups of natives -*- all females — were
reclining at their evening meal.

As we advanced, these various parties ceased their buzzing,
and in explanation o£ omt a^^^«ir».xvci^ ^mwi% Nk^'ccL^ listened to
« few cabalistic words feom o\xt g;o!A^.

CHAP. Lxxxi.] WE VISIT THE COURT. 315

The whole scene was a strange one ; but what most excited
our surprise, was the incongruous assemblage of the most
costly objects from all quarters of the globe. Cheek by jowl,
they lay beside the rudest native articles, without the slightest
attempt at order. Superb writing-desks of rosewood, inlaid
with silver and mother-of-pearl ; decanters and goblets of cut
glass; embossed volumes of plates; gilded candelabras; sets
of globes and mathematical instruments ; the finest porcelain ;
richly mounted sabres and fowling-pieces; laced hats and
sumptuous garments of all sorts, with numerous other matters
of European manufacture, were strewn about among greasy
calabashes half-filled with " j^oce," rolls of old tappa and matting,
paddles and fish-spears, and the ordinary furniture of a Tahitian
dwelling.

All the articles first mentioned were, doubtless, presents
from foreign powers. They were more or less injured: the
fowling-pieces and swords were rusted ; the finest woods were
scratched ; and a folio volume of Hogarth lay open, with a cocoa-
nut shell of some musty preparation capsized among the mis-
cellaneous furniture of the Rake's apartment, where that in-
considerate young gentleman is being measured for a coat.

While we were amusing ourselves in this museum of curiosi-
ties, our conductor plucked us by the sleeve, and whispered,
" Pomaree ! Pomaree ! aramai kow kow."

" She is coming to sup, then," said the doctor, staring in the
direction indicated. "What say you, Paul, suppose we step
up?" Just then a curtain near by, lifted ; and from a private
building a few yards distant, the queen entered, unattended.

She wore a loose gown of blue silk, with two rich shawls,
one red and the other yellow, tied about her neck. Her royal
majesty was barefooted.

She was about the ordinary size, rather matronly; her features
not very handsome ; her mouth, voluptuous ; but there was a
care-worn expression in her face, probably attributable to her
late misfortunes. From her appearance, one would judge her
about forty ; but she is not so old.

As |the queen approached one of the recesses, her attendants
hurried up, escorted her in, and smoothed the mats oa -whicK
she at last reclined. Two girls aoon «^^^\yx^^^ <i"ax:tfv»s^ "^s^sss.

31« ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap. uan.

ndstress's repast ; and then, surrounded by cut-glass and porce-
lain, and jars of sweetmeats and confections, Poinaree Vahinee I.,
the titular Queen of Tahiti, ate fish and poee out of her natiye
calabashes, disdaining either knife or spoon.

*' Come on," whispered Long Ghost, " let's have an audience
at once ;" and he was on the point of introducing himself, when
tmr guide, quite alarmed, held him back, and implored silence.
The other natives also interfered ; and as he was pressing for-
ward, raised such an outcry that Pomaree lifted her eyes, and
»aw us for the first.

She seemed surprised, and offended ; and issuing an order in
a commanding tone to several of her women, waved us out of
the house. Summary as the dismissal was, court etiquette, no
doubt, required our compliance. We withdrew ; making a pro-
found inclination as we disappeared behind the tappa arras.

We departed the grounds without seeing Marbonna ; and
previous to vaulting over the picket, feed our pretty guide, after
a fashion of our own. Looking round a few moments after, we
saw the damsel escorted back by two men, who seemed to have
been sent after her. I trust she received noliiing more than a
reprimand.

The next day Po-Po informed us that strict orders had 'been
issued to admit no strangers within the palace precincts.

CHAP. Lxxzn.] WHICH ENDS THE BOOK. 3t7

CHAPTER LXXXn.

Which ends the Book.

Disappointed in going to court, we determined upon going to
sea. It would never do, longer to trespass on Po-Po's hos-
pitality ; and then, weary somewhat of life in Imeeo, like all
sailors ashore, I at last pined for the billows.

Now, if her crew were to be credited, the Leviathan was not
the craft to our mind. But I had seen the captain, and liked
him. He was an uncommonly tall, robust, fine-looking man, in
the prime of life. There was a deep crimson spot in the middle
of each sun-burnt cheek, doubtless the effect of his sea-potations.
He was a Vinyarder, or native of the island of Martha's Vinyard
(adjoining Nantucket), and, I would have sworn it, a sailor, and
no tyrant.

Previous to this, we had rather avoided the Leviathan's men,»
when they came ashore ; but now, we purposely threw ourselvea
in their way, in order to learn more of the vesseL

We became acquainted with the third mate, a Prussian, and
an old merchant seaman — a right jolly fellow, with a face like
a ruby. We took him to Po-Po's, and gave him a dinner of
baked pig and bread-fruit ; with pipes and tobacco for dessert.
The account he gave us of the ship, agreed with my own sur-
mises. A cosier old craft never floated ; and the captain was
the finest man in the world. There was plenty to eat, too ; and,
at sea, nothing to do but sit on the windlass and saiL The onlj
bad trait about the vessel was this : she had been launched
under some baleful star ; and so, was a luckless ship in the
fishery. She dropped her boats into the brine often enough,
and they frequently got fast to the whales ; but lance and haj>
poon almost invariably " drew " when darted by the men of the
Leviathan. But what of that? We would have all the a^ort
of chaang the moDJSitera, wUh noDfi oitiiiJ^d^XAiifta^i&^^^^'^i^^^^

318 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [chap, lxxxh.

follows tlieir capture. So, hurrah for the coast of Japan!
Thither the ship was bound.

A word now, about the hard stories we heard, the first time
we visited the ship. They were nothing but idle fictions, got
up by the sailors for the purpose of frightening us away, so as
to oblige the captain, who was in want of more hands, to lie the
longer in a pleasant harbour.

The next time the Vinyarder came ashore, we flung ourselves
in his path. When informed of our desire to sail with him, he
wanted to know our history ; and, above all, what countrymen
we were. We said, that we had left a whaler in Tahiti, some
time previous ; and, since then, had been, in the most praise-
worthy manner, employed upon a plantation. As for our
country, sailors belong to no nation in particular ; we were, on
this occasion, both Yankees. Upon this he looked decidedly
incredulous ; and freely told us, that he verily believed we were
both from Sydney.

Be it known here, that American sea captains, in the Pacific,
are mortally afraid of these Sydney gentry ; who, to tell the
truth, wherever known, are in excessively bad odour. Is there
a mutiny on board a ship in the South Seas, ten to one a
Sydney man is the ringleader. Ashore, these fellows are equally
riotous.

It was on this account, that we were anxious to conceal the
fact of our having belonged to the Julia ; though it annoyed
me much, thus to deny the dashing little craft. For the same
reason, also, the doctor fibbed about his birth-place.

Unfortunately, one part of our raiment — Arfretee*s blue
frocks — was deemed a sort of collateral evidence against us.
For, curiously enough, an American sailor is generally dis-
tinguished by his red frock ; and an English tar, by his bine
one: thus reversing the national colours. The circumstance
was pointed out by the captain ; and we quickly explained the
anomaly. But in vain: he seemed inveterately prejudiced
against us ; and, in particular, eyed the doctor most distrust-
fully.

Bj way of propping the latter's pretensions, I was throwing
out a hint concerning Kentucky, ^^ \v.\wcv^ cj^L \»31 men, when our
ViDjrarder turned away a\)TM^\\7> ^a^ ^^€vt^^\siV^'w tw^'^ksb!!.

cHAP.Lxxxn.] WHICH ENDS THE BOOK. 319

more. It was evident that he took Long Ghost for an exceed-
ingly problematical character.

Perceiving this, I resolved to see what a private interview
would do. So, one afternoon, I found the captain smoking a
pipe in the dwelling of a portly old native, one Mai-Mai, who,
for a reasonable compensation, did the honours of Partqowye, to
illustrious strangers.

His guest had just risen from a sumptuous meal of baked pig
and taro pudding ; and the remnants of the repast were still
visible. Two reeking bottles, also, with their necks wrenched
ofij lay upon the mat. All this was encouraging; for, after a
good dinner, one feels affluent and amiable, and peculiarly open
to conviction. So, at all events, I found the noble Vinyarcjer.

I began by saying, that I called for the purpose of setting hmt
right, touching certain opinions of his concerning the place of
my nativity : I was an American, thank Heaven ! and wanted to
convince him of the fact.

After looking me in the eye for some time, and, by so doing,
revealing an obvious unsteadiness in his own visual organs, he
begged me to reach forth my arm. I did so ; wondering what
upon earth that useful member had to do with the matter in
hand.

He placed his fingers upon my wrist ; and holding them there
for a moment, sprang to his feet ; and, with much enthusiasm,
pronounced me a Yankee, every beat of my pulse !

" Here, Mai-Mai!" he cried, " another bottle I" And, when
it came, with one stroke of a knife, he summarily beheaded it,
and commanded me to drain it to the bottom. He then told
me, that if I would come on board his vessel the following morn-
ing, I would find the ship's articles on the cabin transom.

This was getting along famously. But what was to become
of the doctor ?

I forthwith made an adroit allusion to my long friend. But
it was worse than useless. The Vinyarder swore he would
have nothing to do with him — he (my long friend) was a " biid"
from Sydney, and nothing would make him (the man of little
faith) believe otherwise.

I could not help loving the free-hearted captain ; but indig-

320 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS. [cHAP.LXxxn.

nant at this most unaccountable prejudice against mj comrade,
I abruptly took leave.

Upon informing the doctor of the result of the interview, he
was greatly amused; and laughingly declared, that the Yin-
yarder must be a penetrating fellow. He then insisted upon
my going to sea in the ship, since he well knew how anxious I
was to leave. As for himself, on second thoughts, he was no
sailor ; and although ^* landsmen " very often compose part of
a whaler's crew, he did not quite relish the idea of occupjring a
position so humble. In short, he had made up his mind to tarry
awhile in Imeeo.

I turned the matter over ; and at last decided upon quitting
the island. The impulse urging me to sea once more, and the
prospect of eventually reaching home, were too much to be
resisted ; especially, as the Leviathan was so comfortable a craft,
was now bound on her last whaling cruise, and, in little more
than a year's time, would be going round Cape Horn.

I did not, however, covenant to remain in the vessel for the
residue of the voyage ; which would have been needlessly
binding myself. I merely stipulated for the coming cruise,
leaving my subsequent movements unrestrained; for there
was no knowing that I might not change my mind, and prefer
journeying home by short and easy stages.

The next day I paddled off to the ship, signed and sealed,
and stepped ashore with my ^^ advance" — fifteen Spanish
dollars, tasselling the ends of my neck-handkerchiefl

I forced half of the silver on Long Ghost ; and having little
use for the remainder, would have given it to Po-Po as some
small return for his kindness ; but, although he well knew the
value of the coin, not a dollar would he accept

In three days time, the Prussian came to Po-Po's^ and told us
that the captain, having made good the number of his crew, by
shipping several islanders, had determined upon sailing with
the land-breeze at dawn the following morning. These tidiogs
were received in the afternoon. The doctor immediately dis-
appeared, returning soon after with a couple of flasks of wine,
concealed in the folds of his frock. Through the agency of the
Jfarquesan, he had purc\i^«^ Wv^sa. fcom an understrapper of
the court.

CHAP. Lxxxn.] WHICH ENDS THE BOOK. 321

I prevailed upon Po-Po to drink a parting shell ; and even
little Loo, actually looking conscious that one of her hopeless
admirers was about leaving Partoowye for ever, sipped a few
drops from a folded leaf. As for the warm-hearted Arfretee,
her grief was unbounded. She even besought me to spend my
last night under her own palm-thatch ; and then, in the
morning, she would herself paddle me off to the ship.

But this I would not consent to ; and so, as something to
remember her by, she presented me with a roll of fine matting,
and another of tappa. These gifts placed in my hammock,
I afterwards found very agreeable in the warm latitudes to
which we were bound; nor did they fail to awaken most
grateful remembrances.

About nightfall we broke away from this generous-hearted
household, and hurried down to the water.

It was a mad, merry night among the sailors : they had on
tap a small cask of wine, procured in the same way as the
doctor's flasks.

An hour or two after midnight, every thing was noiseless;
but when the first streak of the dawn showed itself over the
mountains, a sharp voice hailed the forecastle, and ordered the
ship unmoored. The anchors came up cheerily ; the sails were
soon set; and with the early breath of the tropical morning,
fresh and fragrant from the hillsides, we slowly glided down
the bay, and were swept through the opening in the reef.
Presently, " we hove to," and the canoes came alongside to take
off the islanders who had accompanied us thus far. As he
stepped over the side, I shook the doctor long and heartily by
the hand. I have never seen or heard of him since.

Crowding all sail, we braced the yards square ; and, the
breeze freshening, bowled straight away from the land. Once
more the sailor's cradle rocked under me, and I found myself
rolling in my gait.

By noon, the island had gone down in the horizon ; and all
before us was the wide Pacific

THE END.

London :

Spottiswoodb atid Shaw,

New-street-Square.

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