One Summer In Hawaii

113429

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII

ONE

IN HA IV A II

BY

HELEN MATHER

NEW YORK

CASSELL PUBLISHING COMPANY

104 & 106 FOURTH AVENUE

COPYRIGHT, 1891,

BY
HELEN MATHER.

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

WHILE spending the winter of 1889
and 1890 in Southern California and
San Francisco, I was repeatedly asked
if I should not visit "the Islands" be-
fore going away ; and was told that
" A run down to the Islands is the
thing, you know; everybody goes to the
Islands." What islands they referred
to I had not the slightest idea, suppos-
ing them to be in near proximity to
San Francisco, from the familiar way
people spoke of " running down " to
them, and perhaps the kind of excur-
sion one takes when going from New
York to Coney Island.

iv INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

- Being told they were the Sandwich,
or Hawaiian Islands as they are now
called, in the mid-Pacific Ocean, more
than two thousand one hundred miles
distant, I was startled at the flippant
suggestion of the Occidentals to whom
time and space seemed as nothing.
To cross the Atlantic had always
seemed to me to be a. grave undertak-
ing, but here I was seriously advised
to pack my satchel and " run down "
two thousand miles into the Pacific, as
if for a day's outing.

The Sandwich Islands have always
been floating about in my mind in a
vague, uncertain way, never having,
been able to quite locate them, any
more than I have the heaven I hope
some day to reach.

The missionary boxes to which we

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

used to contribute were the most nota-
ble facts connected with them in my
memory. Mark Twain's humorous ac-
count of his visit, and. the appearance
of the natives when dressed in the
clothing distributed from the boxes,
was ludicrous enough, and I had sup-
posed that the same modes and man-
ners were still in vogue, forgetting that
twenty or twenty-five years had civil-
ized and Christianized the people who
once went about " barefooted to their
eyes " ; and who smacked their lips
over a cannibal feast.

It did not require much urging to
induce me to accompany a party of
friends who were to sojourn in this
" Paradise of the Pacific " for two or
three months for health and pleasure.

The subjoined pages have been

vi INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

transcribed from a journal kept to
please my sister; and I have been in-
duced, perhaps unwisely, to print and
put them into covers.

If I have succeeded in getting my
impressions upon paper, and in preserv-
ing for my friends the reminiscences of
a delightful trip, I shall be more than
satisfied.

Aloha Nui ! It is a word of greet-
ing in the Hawaiian tongue ; and is
used by the islanders to express all
the kindly sentiments of the heart.
Aloha means, I greet you. Aloha Nui
is a stronger term. To the many
friends I found in that island paVadise,
and from whom I parted with regret, I
dedicate the book with the words :
Aloha Nui,

HELEN MATHER.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER PAGE

I. The Australia Sea Gulls and Flying Fish

The Southern Cross Concert Honolulu, . I

II. Island Homes Tropical FoliagePublic Build-
ings The Palace, 16

III. A Moonlight Drive to Waikiki Social Hono-
lulu An Unconventional Banquet, . . 24

IV. A Day at Pearl Harbor Taro Patches Poi

Factories The Lanai Sharks, . . .30

V. Reception at the Home of the American Min-
ister Breakfast on Board the Flagship Charles-
ton, ........ 40

VI. Public Concerts The Birds of the Island

Wailai Hibiscus Hedges, . . . . 48

VII. King Kalakaua and the Queen A Ball at the

lolani Palace The Hawaiian Band, . .57

VIII. The Pali Queen Emma's Palace Mausoleum
of Kings and Queens of Hawaii Gorgeous
View from the Pali, 66

IX. The Telephone System Birdie The Palms

The Climate Base-ball, . . . .83

X. Presentation at Court Sailing of the Aus-
tralia Flower-decked Passengers, . . 91

viii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER PAGE

XL -Anniversary of Birthday of King Kame-
hameha I. Races at Waikiki Decoration by
the King, ....... 102

XII. Manoa Valley, or Valley of Rainbows Lu-

nalilo Home, . . . . . .113

XIII. Musicale at Waildki Native Tritons A

Tropical Night, 124

XIV. Breakfast at the Palace Hawaiian Curi-
osities, 134

XV. Fourth of July at Honolulu A Royal Joke-
Diving Boys A Yacht Race, . . . 143

XVI. Kamehameha School Madam Bishop A

Museum of Antiquities Kalihi, , . . 150

XVII. High Tea Opening of the Hospital by the

Queen The Churches of Honolulu, . .158

XVIII. Trip to Maui and Hawaii The Likiliki

Scenery on Maui Wailuku, . . .168

XIX. Picnic to lao Valley Grand Scenery Sad

Mishap, 180

XX. Start for the Extinct Volcano of Haleakala A
Visit to the Sugar Plantation of Mr. Sprcckels
An Invitation to Lunch Night on the Slope of
Haleakala, 189

XXI. The Ascent of Haleakala Gorgeous
Scenery The Heart of the Crater Silver-
sword Plant, ..'... 198

XXII. Our stay at Wailuku Start for the Island of

Hawaii, ....... 209

XXIII. Ascent of Mauna Loa The Forest of Hilo

The Fatal Signboard The Volcano House, . 222

CONTENTS. IX

XXIV. Visit to the Sulphur Beds and BathThe
Visitors' Book The Lava Beds The Volcano-
Return to Volcano House, .... 238

XXV. The Descent Hilo Again Lomi lomi, . 254

XXVI. The Kinau Homeward Bound Lapahoe-
hoe Kohala Plantation The Disease of Lep-
rosy, 261

XXVII. Honolulu Once More The Luau The
Fish Market Portraits of Kings and Queens of
Hawaii, 269

XXVIII. Hawaiian Character The Native Dances

One Memorable Night, .... 277

XXIX. Farewell to Hawaii, 284

XXX. POSTSCRIPTUM. Death of King Kalakaua

Sad scenes at Honololu Queen Liliuokaulani, . 290

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

CHAPTER I.

THE " AUSTRALIA " SEA GULLS AND FLY-
ING FISH THE SOUTHERN CROSS CON-
CERT HONOLULU.

THE Oceanic Company's steamship
Australia was to sail, or rather steam,
at 3 P. M., and close upon the hour we
crossed the gangway. My compagnons
du voyage seemed to have arrived and
grouped themselves, and so had the
flowers. The saloon was ablaze, the

2 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

staterooms redolent with bloom. The
gift of flowers is always eloquent, and
there is assuredly no more graceful
way of speeding a parting friend ; but
the grace of the compliment may be
marred by the profusion, and the mean-
ing lost in the excess of the metaphor,
especially when the flowers are ex-
pected to make speeches to the public.

The supreme moment awaited us ;
there were hand-shakes, and kisses, and
tear-stained good-bys.

The captain, resplendent in buttons,
looked complacently down from his
post, the signal was given, the good
ship swung from her moorings, with
our finger-tips we spoke the last adieus,
and steamed slowly down to the golden
gateway, past the silent guns of Al-
catraz, with the home-crowned heights

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

on the left, and the hills of Saucelito
on the right, and so on and out to the
open sea.

Ships are a necessary evil, I suppose.
I have a high respect for the men who
man and guide them over that restless
highway, but I have less respect for
the woman who goes with them. One
seems to be living in a constant quake :
a vicious uncertainty attends you when
yotf rise up and when you sit down ; it
goes with you to the table, and haunts
you after the meal ; it lies down with
you when you shelve yourself for the
night, and, if you are fortunate enough
at last to be emptied upon the land, it
leaves you for days in a state of semi-
intoxication.

Thanks to the pacific mood of the
Pacific Ocean, our ship was only a

ONE SUMMER IiV HAWAII.

temporary hospital ; discomfort soon
gave way to serene indifference.

On the morning of the third day we
felt the breath of the tropics, and
lounged in lazy comfort. We patron-
ized the doctor, and permitted the
purser to invent methods of amuse-
ment. We were grown-up children,
the inhabitants of a satellite ; no longer
free moral agents, we were hypnotized
by a genial autocrat whom we had* no
power to resist, and who held us in
awe by the responsibility that devolved
upon him, so much living, breathing
freight to be cared for, and yet we
liked it. The world we had left was
only a memory now. The sound
waves of its emotions did not reach us ;
the morning paper and Mrs. Grundy
no longer talked. Who knows but the

ON SUMMER IN- if A WAIL 5

disembodied spirits may thus sever the
ties of earth and go sailing away on
some mighty air-ship to Nirvana.

" The season ripens quickly as we
revolve," I said to the doctor.

" Yes," was his reply, " it will soon
be time for ducks and dimity. When
the Southern Cross comes in sight,
fans and ices are in order."

But the almost vertical sun rays
brought no discomfort to us. We
hugged our chairs in indolence, and
watched our fellow-travelers. There
was a widow in weeds, o'er young to
mourn if not to marry, and her friend,
yclept the " dimpled blonde," who
had not laid up her treasure in heaven,
but left him. at home to toil; her
points d'appui were the dimple and
a banjo, and she played both with

ONE SUMMER IN HA IV At t.

admirable nawett. But why not ?
When the splendid sunset fades, and
u the moon takes up her wondrous
tale," a harmless flirtation is a sanitary
agent; it quickens the circulation, and
drives away hypochondria. There
were also half a score, or less, of the
charming halves of Uncle Sam's sea-
folk, going clown to be within boat
reach of the U. S. S. Charleston. The
Department in Washington does not
encourage these matrimonial reunions,
but good wives obey the instincts of
their hearts, and the higher law, which
says, "What God hath joined together
let no Naval Department put assun-
der."

Seated near us was a wee woman
chatting, with a ripple of laughter. I
had noticed her the first day out, when,

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAII.

wrapped in her husband's coat, I had
mistaken her for a boy ; at table I
thought her a girl ; and now, in the
warm sunshine, she blossomed into a
full blown woman. Petite and grace-
ful, she spoke a universal language
with her eyes, and only French with
her lips. Her husband, a young
gentleman of American blood and
Hawaiian birth, was en route, with his
medical diploma and marriage certifi-
cate, to his island home. " Isn't she
sweet ? " I said to my friend. " Short
and sweet," growled the doctor.

And so the days, and nights, too, for
that matter, flashed by. Our convoy
of sea-gulls uttered their garrulous
cries, and flapped the wind of their
wings in our faces. The dolphins,
driven by that mysterious nerve force

8 ONE SUMMER IN If A WAIL

which discounts steam, shot past us.
The winged fish flew from the jaws of
the iron monster, with its deck load of
parasites.

" I wonder if they breathe when
they plunge into the atmosphere ? "
said my friend.

"Why not/' I replied; " fear has
evidently lent them wings, and the law
of adaptation, or some other Darwinian
canon, may have given them the capa-
city to breath when they are not ex-
pected to. '

" There are creatures, not to men-
tion mermaids, which are equally at
ease in both elements.

" By the way, that mermaid business
of the Germans always seemed to me
to be a dismal freak of imagination ;
a hideous nightmare of sentiment.

ONE SUMMER IN 1 HA WAIL

" A lovelorn swain poses by the sad
seashore; and is lured by a composite
being, one end fish and the other
angel, ' till at last they go down
together to damp discomfort and
slime/

"'Tis the one string of a thousand
harps which the Teutonic poets have
played."

" The Germans are odd fish," said
the purser sententiously ; " my father
was a German."

As you drop down into the tropics,
the nights take on a wondrous charm.
The stars seemed rounded into moons
and shed their silver radiance on the
sea. On such a night we sat and
watched the dancers' feet beat time to
the music of the Taropatch and Ukelele.
It was wierd and restful, and I retired

10 ONE SUAfMEIt AV HA WAIL

to dream of rustling palms and bosky
groves.

By an unwritten law, extending back
ever so many trips, our last night on
shipboard was to be devoted to music.
It had been announced ; the purser
was in an ecstasy of preparation ; each
possible person had been interviewed
and solicited, and, lo, it was found that
no soul could strike a responsive chord.
The tuneful nine had not taken pas-
sage with us. The ecstasy of the
purser changed to agony. He de-
clared that there should be a concert,
whether there was any music or not.
Later in the day it was whispered about
that a cantatrice had been discovered
in the person of a child's nursemaid,
who was going to the Islands in that

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. II

capacity to escape an unpleasant
family feud. She was said to be the
daughter of a celebrated opera singer,
who had herself appeared in public
with distinguished success. An air of
mystery lent romance to the situation.
We were on the qui vive. The purser
was jubilant. The hour arrived. In
newspaper parlance, the house was
packed with the tlite, etc. The nurse-
maid,, properly attired, was led forward,
A simple air was selected. The chords
of the accompaniment were struck.
The prima donna essayed, but the
flood of melody did not come; in a
moment, she was led, weeping, from
the saloon.

The whole thing was ludicrous, and
yet pathetic.- It proved afterward that

12 ONE SUMMER AV HA WAIL

the poor girl was an escaped lunatic,
who had gone mad on the subject of
music.

But we had the concert, and the
traditions remained inviolate.

Early on the morning* of the seventh
day we sighted the Islands.

Molokai was the first that showed its
mountain peaks, at the left, above the
dark blue water. It is the home of the
leper, and I shuddered as I pictured to
myself that " valley of the shadow of
death," where the dark-winged angel is
always flapping his wings.

Then came Oahu on the right, with
" Koko-Head," a bold, precipitous
mountain rising from its morning bath,
bald and bare at the crest, but with
leagues of eternal verdure, softly cover-
ing its bends and sweeping curves.

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAII. 13

We rounded " Diamond Head, 5 * which,
like a brazen fortress, abuts upon the
sea. To the right was a line of foam-
fringed reefs, and beyond a stretch of
gleaming sand, where a single group
pf sentinel palms seem to be keeping
watch and ward ; and still beyond,
steeples and flagstaffs, and gray roofs
embossed with green, and high above
all, looking down in its dead magnifi-
cence, a crushed volcano, which some
inebriated individual had named the
" Punch Bowl."

We picked up a pilot, and glided in
through the narrow portals to a harbor
between the reef and the rim of the
land, where the shipping lay serenely,
and so on to our moorings, where the
water kissed the feet of a town, and
this was Honolulu, the capital of the

14 OWE mi/JM'A' LV /// //'.-///.

Island Kingdom, a city of twenty-
five thousand inhabitants.

A motley concourse had gathered to
greet us : brown natives in their simple,
flower-decked garbs, almond-eyed sons
of the Flowery Kingdom, diminutive
subjects of the Mikado, Portuguese,
Germans, Britons, Americans, all coolly
clad and cordial. Our officers came
forth white and fresh from their sea-
chests. We said our adieus, paid our
hospital tax, and amid the unwonted
bustle took carriages for the hotel.

The streets were festooned and
flagged, for it was Decoration Day.
A band was " Marching through
Georgia " as we passed the palace
grounds, where His Majesty was re-
ceiving the American admiral and his
suite.

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 15

The hotel seemed cool and hospita-
ble, and sits in its ample grounds, sur-
rounded by a brood of cottages,
covered by trailing vines and masses
of foliage ; and soon we were resting
in the rooms reserved for us, which
opened upon broad verandas, whence
we looked out upon a wealth of flower
and tree of tropical growth.

CHAPTER II.

ISLAND HOMKS TROPICAL FOLIAGE
PUBLIC BUILDINGS THK I'ALACK.

THE morning dawned, the heaving
deep no longer rocked me in its em-
brace. I heard the innumerable voices
of the land, and breathed the balm of
a thousand flowers. I still reeled with
the after-sensations of the sea, but was
content to know that I was stranded
upon a rock. Stepping upon the
veranda in the cool hush of the morn-
ing, I appreciated for the first time the
luxuriant repose of the tropics.

The bloom of unwonted flowers, the
burnished sheen of the leaves, the lance-

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 17

like foliage of the palms, all bespoke a
new world.

Before me stood a group of dusky
children, with wonder in their liquid
eyes, timid, fawn-like, and flower
decked. They won me at once. I
said : if these are heathen, let them re-
main heathen, " for of such is the king-
dom, of heaven."

Honolulu presented itself to me as a
huge hamlet of homes. The business
quarter is "simply a place of traffic, de-
void of interest, save that which per-
tains to the people who throng its nar-
row streets. I had only eyes for the
supple, brown-faced men and women,
who walked with the grace of the stag,
and rode their sorry steeds like cen-
taurs. As we drove through the mac-
adamized tree-fringed streets, on either

18 O.VA .Y/M/J/A'A' AV //.f //'.///.

hand were one-story houses, winded
with verandas, veritable ^Tfeneries.
nestling under two-story trees. I said
to my companion, " Christianity has at
least reformed the highways and the
huts." Peace and comfort seemed to
reign. The sword of Damocles docs
not hang here, I thought Shade that
was shade, sward that was sward, and
bloom that was bloom in endless pro-
fusion. There are several fine build-
ings, notably the Government House,
with its bronze statue of Kamehameha
I., and the Queen's 1 lospital ; this
place, in its rare and wonderful setting,
is more than a home for the afflicted
it is a thing of beauty, and a well-spring
of joy, and the islanders may well be
proud of it The palace of the king, a
somewhat stately building, of composite

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

architecture, built of the volcanic rock
of the country, stands in extensive
grounds, with well kept lawns, shaded
by graceful palms, and many flowering

trees and shrubs that I had never seen
before. But even His Majesty, I am
told, prefers an adjacent bungalow for
his home nest, making use of his palace
upon state occasions. Another pala-
tial home is that of Mr. Claus Spreckels,
the " Sugar King" of Hawaii. Its white

22 ONE SUMMER /,\ r II Air A FT,

life of the " Lotus eater " ? You do
not know, and you do not care ; you
have no will to resist it, and so you
drift.

The wealth of tree and flower, born
of the generous earth and the liquid
sunshine, is marvelous.

The Ponsiana Regia, typo of royalty,
lifts itself to the light, with widespread-
ing branches, its tops crowned with
scarlet blossoms of great beauty, out
of which spring pom-poms of feathery
stamens. Its delicate leaves are like
the finer ferns, and, at a distance, are
entirely hidden by this flame-colored
canopy. -Another variety, called the
" golden shower/' forms a picture of
gorgeous color. Its huge clusters en-
velop the tree as with a mantle of
gold. In this genial clime, the olean-

' ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 23

der waxes out of the realm of shrub-
hood, and displays its parti-colored
flowers from overhanging branches.
But sweetest of the sweet, and fairest
of the fair, is the feathery algeroba.
Its delicate sprays shed a soft dreamy
glow, which forms, with the dark leaves
of the hibiscus, a symphonious wave of
color. Another of the sylvan wonders
is the " monkey pod," which folds its
leaves in the afternoon and takes a
quiet siesta in the soft air. Its fuzzy
pink flower hides itself in a pod at
maturity, and goes to seed in a grace-
ful way. But I must have done with
flower and tree, and yet they over-
whelm me with delight. I shall always
picture' Paradise hereafter as an umbra-
geous island.

CHAPTER III.

A MOONLIGHT DRIVK TO WAIKIKI
SOCIAL HONOLULU-- AN UNCONVEN-
TIONAL BANQUKT.

A MOONLIGHT drive to Waikiki.*
Shall I ever forget it ? It was fancy
run riot ; hour for Cupid's darts, if I had
only been in the business. Sentiment
reigned, and we heard the hoof-beats
of the winged horse. As we bowled
down the broad avenue, white walls
gleamed amid the shadows, and white
rays glinted through the leaves* I
caught the ripple of laughter from the
lanais, and the strains of music from

* The seaside resort of Honolulu* Its Long Branch ;
its Newport ; its Trouville.

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIT. 25

invisible hands. My nostrils were
filled with the perfume of flowers, and
I inhaled the odor to my finger tips.
On for three miles or more, and ocean,
in all its glorious majesty, burst upon
our sight. A bar of molten silver from
the pallid moon lay upon its surface ;
the billows thundered on the distant
reef, and died ; while, nearer to us, the
spent waves were sobbing on the sands.
Behind the everlasting mountains was
a ghostly procession of clouds, which
were stealing in from the windward ; and
over all the blue vault, studded with
tranquil stars. In such a presence,
words were sacrilege ; we could but
look and listen.

I dropped from the seventh heaven
into the courtyard of the seaside hotel.
The open windows revealed arm-en-

26 ONE SUMMER M //A WAIL

circled forms whirling in the mazy
dance, "soft eyes looked love to eyes
which spake again." I knew it was not
far off; when you scent the perfume
of the rose, the flower is near at hand.

In another vague, indistinct, apple-
bearing paradise two lovers set the ex-
ample, and there have been Adams and
Eves ever since, and that other follow
is always in the cast. Why Omnipres-
ence and Omniscience and Omnipotence
should not relegate him to his proper
sphere is not given for us to know.
We are expected to say " get thcc be-
hind me/' but still he goes about seek-
ing, and, alas, sometimes finds.

I even fancy, in these sensational
days, that my morning paper smells of
brimstone.

We were presented to one of the

ONE SUMMER IN ffA WAIL 27

charming society belles of Honolulu,
who was thus, for the nonce, entertain-
ing her friends. I heard pleasant greet-
ings, and saw winning smiles. It was
civilization at high tide ; it was more ;
it was grace, refinement, and culture
transplanted to this remote corner of
heathendom ; exotic it might be, but it
had waxed and developed under the
genial influences of nature until it had
become suz generis. The scene was
well-nigh Oriental ; colored lights shim-
mered amid the branches of the trees.
The native musicians gave us selections
from Strauss and Waldteufel on their
stringed instruments, and in the inter-
ludes sang native songs which entranced
us with their wild and wierd refrains.

Glad maidens in gauze gowns, and
gay cavaliers in blue coats and brass

ONE SUM MR R Iff ft A 11* A ft.

buttons, wandered about the grounds
and down by the sea, while the leaves
sighed, and the mortals laughed It

was a page cut from the " Arabian
Nights."

Nor were we vitalized alone by moon-
light and music. In due time we sat

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

us down to an unconventional banquet,
served with true Hawaiian hospitality.
Delmonico would have given us more
fuss and French phrases, but he could
not have duplicated the menu. In a
land where sea and earth are so profuse ;
where you can pluck a pineapple with
one hand and a banana with the other ;
where salads grow on trees, and straw-
berries ripen every day in the year, you
are freely regaled with viands which
would cost a king's ransom elsewhere.

Reluctantly we tore ourselves away
from this " Midsummer Night's Dream/'
and hastened homeward, hiding in
heart and brain an enchanting picture.

CHAPTER IV.

A DAY AT PEARL HARBOR TARO
PATCHES PIO FACTORIES THE "LA-
NAl" SHARKS.

A LETTER of introduction may be a
golden key to a wayfarer ; an " open
sesame," not to the robbers' dungeon
but to the Holy of Holies. Such a
talismanic missive I had presented ;
and found upon my return to the
hotel an invitation to spend a day
with a well-known resident of Hono-
lulu, and his family, at their country
cottage at Pearl Harbor. At the lit-
tle railway station, with the admiral

from the flagship Charleston and two
3

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIT. 3 1

of his staff, the French Consul, and
other guests, we joined the family
party, consisting of the doctor, his
wife, daughter, and two sons, the
eldest of whom, with his wee French
wife, had been our compagnons du voy-
age.

It delighted me to find that the lines
of " La Petite " had been cast in such
pleasant places. Affection had brought
to her its boon of compensation.

Skirting the sea, with mist-crowned
mountains on the right, we passed
through a pleasant foot-hill country,
dotted with rice fields and taro, prop-
erly karo y patches. The cultivation
and preparation of this, the staple food
of the natives, is peculiar. The
ground for its cultivation is made
ready by heaping the earth into hil-

32 ONE SUMMER L\ HAWAII.

locks, around which the water flows.
The plants, when growing upon these
miniature islands, resemble water-lily
pads.

The beet-like roots, when matured,
are harvested, and then boiled until
soft enough to permit the easy re-
moval of the tough, fibrous skin ; then
the succulent tubers, hot and smoking,
are placed in large wooden bowls and
beaten with heavy stone pestles until
the mass is of the consistency of
dough. At this stage of the process
it is pai-ai ; afterward, diluted with
water, it is left to ferment for a few
days until sour, when it becomes poi %
and it is fit for the feast

Seated in fraternal conclave, around
a calabash of poi, the natives dip their
fingers into the glutinous mass, and

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 33

convey it to their mouths with 'evident
relish ; but then, fingers were made
before forks, and I have vivid recollec-
tions of trying similar methods with
my mother's jam pots.

In matters of diet, custom covers
a multitude of inconsistencies. We
make exclamation points with our
noses at the mention of poi, and yet
we take limburger cheese to our stom-
ach with delight. We have a feeling
akin to disgust when told that the
natives cut slices from a delicate little
fish, season and eat them without being
cooked ; and yet we open the two
valves of an oyster and swallow the
delicious morsel, bones and all.

Poi factories were numerous, and the
odor they exhaled was not the perfume
of the rose, " I wonder if it is con-

34

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

tagious," said my friend, sotto voce, with
an evident fear of the leper settlement
in her mind. The miles of poi which
I inhaled in thirty minutes will last me
for a lifetime.

The rice plantations are mostly cul-

tivated by the Chinese, aided and
abetted by slow-moving oxen, which
drag the plows across the sodden fields.
I was forcibly reminded that in
Hawaii the demarkations of the sea-
Sons are simply imaginary lines drawn

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 35

across the year, when I saw in some
places young rice plants just peeping
from the bath, and in others the
ripened stalks nodding in the breeze,
and waiting for the harvest.

Ten miles of pleasant chat, and we
left the car of the toy railway, and were
ushered into the country home of our
host Here he picnics with his friends,
literally, beneath his own vine and fig
tree.

I suppose one might tire, in time, of
the tropical profusion of flower, tree,
and fruit ; but the new sensation was
still upon me ; and I found constant
delight in the long lances of the palms ;
in that vegetable wonder, the banana,
which is a tree without a trunk, only
leaves of abnormal growth, and the
stems of leaves ; in the pineapple,

36 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

which springs from the earth like an
aloe, its stem crowned by a cone not
a fruit, but a ripened flower, luscious
and succulent ; in the mango, with its
leathery leaves and orange colored
fruit ; and in the thousand and one
hot air plants and flowers. I am sure
it would require years of this life to
banish the wonder from my eyes.

From the open windows of the lanai
I looked out upon this wealth of foli-
age, flanked by cultivated fields ; on
one hand the ocean, on the other the
mountains, and before me the shining
surface of Pearl River, which is no
river at all, only a rift in the land
which the sea has found and filled.

By far the most attractive feature of
a Hawaiian house is the lanai. It is
a large apartment, so constructed that

OtfJS SUMMER IN HAWAII.

its front and sides can be thrown open
to the air. As all roads were said to
lead to Rome, so all hallways lead to
the lanai. Here you lounge in the

morning, and laze in the afternoon.
It is par excellence the social realm,
dear alike to old and young.

" In the lanai," said my host, "we
take no note of the lapse of time."

" And where you seem almost to live
without being conscious of life," I re-
plied.

38 ONE SUMMER IN 1IA WAIL

" Sharks ! " was the cry which startled
us, followed by a convulsive tremor of
excitement as we hastened to the bank
of the estuary, and there we saw, in
mid-stream, what seemed to be a move-
ment of fins.

A Chinese servant was hastily sum-
moned, and directed to go at once and
interview the sea-wolves. We watched
him with some trepidation, as he slowly
undid the fastenings of the boat, and,
seating himself, rowed with measured
strokes to the place of disturbance.
He rested upon his oars for a moment,
then turned and came back in the
same deliberate way, and mounting the
bank he stood before us, immobile as
a statue of fatalism, and reported, in
five words, " No sharky; leafy, no
more " ; and so our shark episode was

ONE SUMMER IN HA WATT. 39

nipped in the bud, or rather in the
leaf.

At "tiffin," as the East Indians call
their mid-day meal, we were served,
much to my astonishment, with oysters
fresh from the Chesapeake ; by what
device of legerdemain they reached us
is more than I can divine, unless they
came, as the barnacles come, attached
to the hull of some Baltimore clipper.

In the wane of the afternoon we
were asked to group ourselves, and the
daughter of our host brought her
camera to bear upon us, and thus I
have until now a pleasing memento of
this cottage home by the water side.

CHAPTER V,

RECEPTION AT THE HOME OF THE AMER-
ICAN MINISTER BREAKFAST ON BOARD
THE FLAGSHIP "CHARLESTON/ 1

WE came to breathe the balmy air,
and to see the wonders of this island
world, and lo ! we have fallen into a
social vortex not unlike the carnival of
fashion in olden capitals. The festivi-
ties and feasts of to-day are not the
festivities and feasts of a hundred years
ago.

When we, of another race, are in-
clined to vaunt ourselves, we should
remember that we are not what our
rude forefathers were.

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 41

The long and short of history is
simply this birth, development, death,
and decay. I have no patience with
the narrow prejudice which would carp
and sneer at conditions which it has
neither the intelligence to understand,
nor the honesty to interpret.

There is much in the native race to
admire, and I am glad of this opportu-
nity to say so. They are simple, hon-
est, generous, proud, and hospitable.
They love music and flowers and color,
and these qualities, .when fully devel-
oped, mean high civilization. Upon
the American Continent, the Aztec
race, akin to this, was blotted out by
greed and fanaticism. It should be
the missionary work of the world to
foster and preserve this gentle people.

It is pathetic to think that a little

42 ONE SUMMER /A* HAWAII.

more than one hundred years ago
there were four hundred thousand of
them, and to-day there are scarcely
forty thousand. Between the upj '.r
and the nether millstone they are being
ground to dust. We send out moral
physicians to inoculate against minor
vices, and yet, in the interest of com-
merce 1 , we permit dynasties and people
to be destroyed.

A reception at the home of the
American Minister was the no
list of engagements. It wa
reception, during which th
band, alternating with tha* . the
Charleston, discoursed really good
music.

The house was decorated with flags,
ferns, and palms. The American Min-
ister and his wife, with their two * in-

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAlI. 43

teresting daughters, received cordially
and gracefully, and made us feel at
home under their hospitable roof.

It is a comfort to find that one's
country is well represented abroad.
It seems to add to one's importance ;
there is a sense of security -in it ; you
feel that the eye of your Government is
upon you, and that its protecting hand
is over you ; more especially when the
guns ,of a man-of-war, flying -your
F y's flag, are showing their teeth
waters. Not that I had
feeling of trepidation in dear
Hawaii only a wee bit of justi-
fiable pride.

'The beginning of the second week
of my stay brought cards for a break-
fast to be given on board the Charles-
ton.

44

ONE SUMMKR /-V 11 A WAIL

At the appointed hour the ship's
launch awaited the party at the wharf,
and a few minutes later we reached
the cruiser's side.

The admiral and the captain re-

.1

ceived us at the gangway, and escorted
us to the library and saloon, after which
we inspected the wonderful guns ;
heard of their great capacity to kill;
were shown the complicated machinery
for guiding and propelling the huge
monster, as well as the modern improve-
ments for comfort; electric appliances
and labor-saving machines.

When I looked at the gracious gen-

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 45

tleman who explained these methods
of dealing death and destruction, I
could not resist asking, " Is war, then,
indeed a necessity ? "

He replied jocosely, "To us, yes,
because thereby we get promotion and
increased pay. All this, however, is in
the interest of peace a preventive, not
an incentive. The instinct to kill is
universal, but it is none the less cruel.
We pet a bird behind the bars, and
kill its brother in the forest We eat
the meat, but do not care to look at
the shambles. If we were consistent
in all tilings, Paradise might open its
gates too soon for us, you know, and
we should miss half the sensations of
life."

The ship was connected by telephone
wires with the town, a novel conven-

46 0*VJ SLWMKR AV If A ll'Aff,

ience to both ship folk and town
folk.

After all had been explained and
admired, breakfast was announced.
Covers for fourteen had been laid in
cabins, which, thrown into one, formed
a spacious dining-room, inlaid with
hard woods and finely and substan-
tially finished. As we sat at the table
the band on the forward deck gave us
some fine music. The details of the
menu have gone from my memory,
but I have a vivid remembrance that
it was all delightful. What you eat
and drink does not alone constitute
a repast ; the eyes and the ears are
important factors in a feast

As we left the table, my attention
was called to an immense punch-bowl
which graced the buffet, a gift to the

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 47

ship by the city of Charleston. It
is an exquisite piece of workmanship
in solid silver, and is proof that this
Southern city is loyal to its country's
flag, and proud of its own historic
name.

CHAPTER VI.

PUBLIC CONCERTS THE BIRDS OF THE

ISLAND WAILAI HIBISCUS HEDGES.

THE concerts in the public parks of
Honolulu are a constant source of en-
joyment. I never tire of the native
singing, such a weird strain seems to
run through the music. It is full of
pathos to the ear, but whether the sen-
timent accords with the suggestion of
sadness, I sometimes doubt.

Nothing could be more enticing
than a stroll through the avenues of
"Thomas Square'* on a moonlight
night. The stately palms made fan-
tastic silhouettes against the sky, re-

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 49

lieved by the waving plumes of the
tree-fern. It is the world of nature,
not of art.

Here eternal summer has hung her
rosaries ; bright-hued, sun-fed flowers
send out their odors on the still night
air, filling all the space with delicate
perfume, while the arch of heaven is
aglow with countless stars.

Under trees, reclining on the grass,
or sitting on benches which line the
walks, are numerous listeners, who
drink in the melody with unalloyed
delight, breaking into hand-clapping
when some favorite air is rendered.
The interludes are filled with the
hum of Voices and the ripple of
laughter.

Laughter and tears are the. primal
expressions of humanity universal,

50 OA T SUMMER AV If A WAIL

significant, and eloquent. As I looked
and listened, I said :

" Is this romance or reality ? It is
indeed fairyland ; can the missionaries
have been magicians ? "

" Hardly," replied my friend.
" They came in a spirit of self-
sacrifice ; lashed by a pitiless con-
science, with Puritan eyes, seeing sin
everywhere, and nature draped in
mourning; but I think the heathen
have converted them, and they are
now having a foretaste of heaven."

" Yes," I answered, " I would not
detract from the good they have done ;
but all faith, nowadays, seems to be
richer and happier. It is no longer
wicked to reverence God in his works."

In 1 my drives about the island I have
seen few varieties of birds. You can

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 51

hear the babble of brooks, the rustle
of leaves, the patter of rain, the thun-
der of the surf, but no thrushes sing
in the thicket, and no lark notes sound
in the air.

The universal sparrow is found, as
persistent and pugnacious as else-
where, but he neither delights us
with his plumage, nor charms us
with his voice. His sole occupation
seems to be to seek for food, and
scold.

The most numerous birds, perhaps,
are the mynahs ; whether they are in-
digenous or not, I am unable to state ;
they are about the size of our robins
and have pretty blue heads, and wings
tipped with white.

The cooing of the dove, elsewhere
so gentle, is here a rasping sound, be-

52 ONE SUAUfEK /A r HAWAII,

tween the crowing of the cock, and the
monotonous wailing of the pea-hen, I
am sure the Hawaiian poets never re-
gard them as types of domestic felic-
ity. In Cupid's domain, a sweet voice
is absolutely essential. It was long
after my arrival before I discovered the
disturbers of my morning dreams ; be-
ginning, as they do, at daybreak, they
seem to grate out in a most dreary, dis-
consolate tone, the words, co-co-azne, co-
co-aine ; good, good. I thought, at first,
they were the natives employed by the
manufacturer of som kind of hair
grease to advertise his nostrum. I
dreamed one morning that I had
bought out the vender, with a pledge
to import no more, but awoke to find
the traffic still going on. When told
that the doves were in the business, I

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 53

concluded that the supply of co-co-aine
could not be exhausted.

And so the days waxed and waned in
Hawaii. When we were not dreaming
in the lanai, we drove in the open air.
It was delicious to bathe in the sun-
shine, and drink the breath of the
flowers. Nature spreads her feasts un-
sparingly, and I took my fill I know
of no spot where the wayworn and
weary can find such perfect rest ; a
" peace which passeth understanding "
seems to abound.

One of my favorite drives was to
Wailai ; it should be named Acacia Ave-
nue. The roadway has been cut for
seven miles through a natural growth
of these beautiful trees. The young
shrubs, overtopped by those of larger
growth, form a perfect hedge, bespan-

54

OXR SUMMER

HA WAIL

gled with golden balls. It abuts direct-
ly upon the ocean, where the waves of
blue chase each other up the silvery
sands. Speaking of hedges, I would

i^^y/^fcte&

&#: >- ^:w$etisjj&

.-/I

that I could picture the beautiful hibis-
cus shrub, cultivated for that purpose,
and which forms one of the most at-
tractive features of the insular homes.
Its scarlet blossom glows amid the dark
green of the leaves, and is as large as a
hollvhock. A soecimen of the coral

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 55

hibiscus sent me, hung like a bell from
its slender stalks, its stamen tipped with
a fleecy ball, and its petals in form and
hue not unlike that gorgeous flower of
the ocean.

If these islands were not the veritable
Eden, they might have been ; and I am
thereby reminded of the apple, of
which fruit there is only one variety
in Hawaii, and that is a fose-tinted,
rose-scented little affair, just the
kind to tempt a woman, for I ate
one myself.

If there were forbidden fruits in that
other Eden, there are none in this.
Grapes hang from the vines in pro-
fusion, bananas are found in countless
bunches, mangoes that no man can
number, while pineapples scent the air
in every direction. There are no cher-

56 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIT.

ries, neither pears, except the alligator
pear, and that is no pear at all ! Per-
mit, me, however, to commend it as a
salad.

CHAPTER VII.

KING KALAKAUA AND THE QUEEN A

BALL AT IOLANI PALACE THE HAWAI-
IAN BAND.

IN Hawaii there is one king to every
sixty thousand inhabitants ; but he is
none the less a king for all that, and
the pomp and circumstance which at-
tend royalty are as marked and sig-
nificant as elsewhere.

I am by instinct and education a
republican, and I believe that to be
the highest form of government ; but
I am not prepared to say that kingcraft
is not necessary to certain races and
conditions. At all events, I have a
profound respect for a man, be he

58 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

king or peasant, who faithfully per-
forms the duties that devolve upon
him.

His Majesty, the King of Hawaii, is

certainly entitled to this meed of
praise, that he loves his own people,
and has an intense desire for their
welfare ; and that he fills his difficult
position with great tact and intelli-
gence.

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 59

An envelope bearing the king's seal
did not overwhelm me, although I was
pleased to find that it contained an in-
vitation to a grand ball, to be given at
the palace, in honor of the admiral and
officers of the United States Flagship
Charleston.

It would be strange if the feminine
mind was not slightly perturbed under
such circumstances.

The exact wherewithal to make one's
self acceptable in the eyes of a king is
a matter of grave import.

I sought through my trunks for my
best gown, and, having settled that
question to my satisfaction, I turned
my attention to points of court eti-
quette. I found we were to be at the
palace promptly at nine o'clock, so at
that hour, duly escorted, I arrived in

<5o ONE SUMMER IN If A WAH.

front of the palace, which was beauti-
fully decorated and illuminated for the
occasion.

Throngs of carriages were wending
their way through the palace grounds,
and after some minutes' delay we
ascended the broad steps leading to
the front entrance. We were shown
by native servants, in the king's livery,
to our dressing-rooms ; and then all as-
sembled in the grand rotunda to
await the opening of the doors to the
throne room. About eight hundred
guests had arrived, when the doors
were thrown open, and all marched
two by two into a large apartment,
hung with crimson and gold. The
floor was polished and the hall bril-
liantly lighted with electricity.

The throne at the farther end was a

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAH. 61

raised dais, canopied with crimson
plush ; beneath which were seated
their" majesties. The admiral and his
officers had already been presented,
and were ranged to the left of the
throne ; while the Princess Liliuokau-
lani, the king's sister, with other mem-
bers of the royal household, were at
the right.

It was a rare sight, and as we filed
past, and made our best dancing school
bows before their majesties, we felt
that we'had not altogether lived in
vain.

The king is a notable man physi-
cally : tall, and of fine proportions,
quite dark, with hair inclined to curl,
and wears side-whiskers and mustache.
He stands erect, and carries himself
with true kingly dignity. His breast

62

ONE SLTMMMR IN HAWAII.

blazed with decorations presented to
him by European sovereigns.

The queen is of medium height, and
rather stout. She has a pleasant,

kindly face, and was dressed becom-
ingly in rose silk, draped with rare
white lace. It was made en train and
decollete, while over her bare arms, at
the shoulders, hung many beautiful
decorations,

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 63

After the presentations were over,-
the Hawaiian band of forty members,
stationed just outside the throne room,
struck up a waltz, and soon the room
was a kaleidoscope of whirling forms.
The gay costumes of the ladies, min-
gling with the bright uniforms of the
officers of the men-of-war, several of
which were in the harbor, made the
scene a brilliant one, such as would
compare favorably with the courts of
continental Europe.

We walked through the different
apartments ; lovely flowers exhaled
perfume on every side, while innumer-
able wax candles shed a soft light in
rooms where the more dazzling effect of
electricity would have seemed vulgar.
All appeared in such good taste, that
one could scarcely believe that within

64 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAII.

two generations the forefathers of these
reigning sovereigns had been regarded
as savages, living in grass huts, eating
raw fish, worshiping idols, and ignorant
of our much vaunted civilization.

The supper, spread in the grand din-
ing-hall, showed skill and taste in every
detail Rare flowers from the palace
conservatory and grounds lent their
sweet presence to enhance the attrac-
tiveness of the table. Immense silver
candelabra with colored candles were
at either end, while a ship, composed
of delicate flowers, occupied the cen-
ter.

When supper was announced the
king and queen walked in, and were
seated near the center, with especially
honored guests placed on their right,
while at their left strangers were given

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 65

the preference. I had the honor of
drinking their majesties' healths in the
choicest sparkling wines of France,
within a few feet of the royal party.
Colonel Macfarlane, the king's cham-
berlain, was master of ceremonies, and
did everything to make the evening a
happy one. All the important person-
ages were pointed out, and as most of
the society people of Honolulu were
present, a rare opportunity was offered
of seeing them at their best. I re-
turned to the hotel at about two o'clock,
well pleased with my first ball in a real
live king's palace.

CHAPTER VIII.

THE PALI QUEEN EMMA*S PALACE

MAUSOLEUM OF KINGS AND QUEENS OF

HAWAII GORGEOUS VIEW FROM THE

PALI.

THE environs of Honolulu are mar-
velously attractive : on the one hand
the great swell of the blue Pacific burst-
ing forever upon the glittering sands ;
on the other, volcanic peaks, baldheaded
and mist-crowned, where the winds and
the sun distil the rains which feed the
streams and fertilize the land. The
earth responds, and eternal summer
riots in eternal vegetation.

There are placid dells hidden in the

66

ONZ SUMMER IN HA WAII. 67

embrace of the mountains, and soft

green savannas sprinkled with groves,

and unplanted gardens

of broad-leaved plants

and feathery palms,

and upland slopes

where the world of

sea and land is unrolled

below.

The highways in and ad-
jacent to the town are con-
structed and kept in repair
by the government, and are
certainly a credit to the
powers that be. One wheels
over them as over the roadways of a
well kept park.

The Pali (or precipice), like the Yo-
semite; is one of the twenty wonders of

68 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAII.

the world. My visit there was a "red
letter day" to me.

The broad avenue which leads from
the town up the Nuuanu Valley is
flanked on either side by beautiful cot-
tages and ornamental grounds and gar-
dens, interspersed here and there with
the humbler homes of the natives. But
thatched roofs and humble surroundings
are no indication of poverty as we under-
stand it. Hawaii is the one place in the
world where the poor man is as rich as
the king. Where Nature spreads the
feast, and all are invited, there can be
no destitution ; and without destitution
there can be no poverty.

As we drove along under the over-
arching trees, the summer palace of
Queen Emma was pointed out to me.
It is surrounded by extensive grounds,

ONE SUMMEJt IN ffA WAII. 69

planted with every variety of tropical
tree and shrub. In fact, these people
seem to dwell in a perennial conserva-
tory, where the sun filters in a soft and
subdued way through the graceful foli-
age, and where the timely clouds weep
to freshen and refreshen.

We passed the wonderful bread fruit
tree, the huge-leaved banana, the grace-
ful bamboo, the stately palm, the
monkey pod, the candle nut, the alliga-
tor pear, and that gem of tropical
vegetation the papaya, the stem of
which shoots upward to a height of
from fifteen to thirty feet; its fruit
clusters beneath its crown of immense
fig-shaped leaves, and is in form and
size not unlike a muskmelon.

Ah Fong, a wealthy and highly re-
spected Chinese merchant, has the

OWE SUMMER /AT HA WAIT.

finest garden on the avenue. It is a
labyrinth of luxury and beauty. The

fences and walls are covered with climb-
ing vines, while hedges of the scarlet
hibiscus make even his vegetable patch
a garden of delight.

Ah Pong married a native woman,

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 71

by whom he has eighteen children, all
of whom are highly educated ; and two
or three of his daughters have married
into English and American families.

The Portuguese cultivate numerous
fields along the drive, where they raise
for the market melons, pineapples,
sweet potatoes, strawberries^ as well as
our own familiar peas, carrots, beans,
squash, etc.

We passed the Mausoleum, a sort of
Gothic chapel of gray stone, where are
buried the kings, queens, and high chiefs
of Hawaii, from the first Kamehameha
to members of the present royal family ;
with the sole exception of Lunalilo,
whose remains lie in a beautiful tomb
of Gothic architecture, near the native
church in the city. Two tall kahili
were planted on either side of the

72 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

entrance; wind-swept and rain-beaten,
they were keeping walch and ward
until "the next who dies."

These kahili are the emblems of
royalty, and are placed there after the
burial of any member of the royal
family, and remain until another death
occurs, when they are exchanged for
new ones. They are made of beauti-
ful feathers of all colors, mounted
upon long staves, inlaid with shell and
ivory.

At the funeral of the last king,
seventy-six kahili were carried in the
procession by the retainers of the
chiefs' families.

From this resting place of the dead,
the dwellings become more scattered ;
the glossy, redundant vegetation
ceased ; and we wound upward through

ONE SUMMER IN &A WAIT. 73

a perfect sea of greensward, kept fresh
and moist by the showers that fall
nearly every day in the year at this
height.

The valley, inclosed by precipitous
cliffs, was an almost impenetrable mass
of tree, shrub, fern, vine, and the wild
lantana. This shrub grows here, as
everywhere upon the island, in wild
luxuriance/ The plant we cultivate so
tenderly in our greenhouses is a nui-
sance here. Once rooted it is very diffi-
cult to exterminate. The flowers are
parti-colored, some shaded from deep-
set crimson to palest pink, others from
dark brown to light yellow, and still
others from dark purple to pale mauve.
They are pleasing to the eye, but ex-
hale an odor which is anything but
agreeable.

From the wrinkled side of the
mountains, little cloud-born streams
were gushing seaward ; now dashing"
over the rocks, now hiding 'neath banks
of ferns, and anon, wedding each other,
they went rippling downward

In liquid music to the summer sea.

After climbing for three miles
through this land of elfs and fairies,
we came upon a gash in the rocks, and
the gorgeous view from the pali burst
upon us.

Leaving the carnage and walking to
the edge of the precipice, a scene
spread itself before me which almost
baffles description. I stood on the
rim of the rock, one thousand feet
above the green meadows below.
Gray walls rose three thousand feet

SUMMER Itf HA WAIT. 75

above my head and terminated in
broken pinnacles, which showed their
fantastic forms against the sky,

Huge rounded domes, vast cloud-capt spires,
Congealed and molded into grand repose.

Afar, the mighty billows of the Pa-
cific swept shoreward ; and nearer was
the line of the coral reef, white with
the surf ; and nearer still, the gleaming
crescent of sand ; while from ocean
to mountain wall was one unbroken
stretch of emerald meadow. It was a
visible poem grand, solemn, change-
less.

A steep bridal path has been cut in
the side of the mountain, down which
we walked for some distance to where
a stream of cool water trickles into a
natural basin of stone. Here a group

ONE SUMMER Itf HA WAIT.

of native men and women were resting
to slake their thirst They smiled and
bowed to us politely, and when I said
" Aloha " their faces brightened, and
they returned the greeting with an
affectionate glitter in their eyes.

As we climbed the path upon our
return, we met two almond-eyed chil-
dren of the " Flowery Kingdom/' a
man and a woman. Their neat attire,
and the small feet of the woman, which
had been compressed until only the
toes were left, indicated that they were
of the better class. The remainder of
her feet were shod in a gaudy pair of
Chinese shoes with marshmallow soles,
and she hobbled along in a painful,
ludicrous way, clinging to the wall of
rock on one side, and to the man's
hand on the other, I said, thinking of

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 77

her feet, "Very bad to walk." She
replied, as she slid past, " No belly
good ; too muchee down hill."

According to tradition the pali was
once the scene of an awful tragedy.
When Kamehameha the First, or " The
Terrible," as he was called, fought the
Chief of Oahu for the possession of
this island, a desperate battle took
place in the valley. Kamehameha
having vanquished the enemy, drove
them to the brink of this precipice like
a flock of sheep, pushing them over by
hundreds to the plain below, where
their bodies lay in heaps, and their
bones bleached in the sun, until kind
nature covered them with a sweet
mantle of green.

The climbing vines thus fertilized
creep up the lower buttresses of

78 ONE SUMMER n\ r If Air All.

precipice, and hang in feathery masses
from projecting ledges, where they
sigh in the gentle breeze a sad re-
quiem, The ridge of the perpendic-
ular rocks stretches far away to the
north, and presents a line of seem-
ing castles, mosques, turrets, domes,
spires, and pinnacles against the
sky.

The day we had chosen was propi-
tious, and the rain, which we had reason
to expect, for once broke its record.
The hurricane that often whistles about
one's ears settled down to a gentle
breeze. The little streams, that are
sometimes blown to fragments by the
force of the wind, came down naturally
and gracefully, while the mists, which
obscure the summits of the mountains
nearly every day in the year, floated

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 79

aloft, and kissed the earth only with
their shadows.

The wonders I had seen during the
day fairly oppressed me. To a gentle-
man who called in the evening I un-
burdened myself. He smiled as I said,
" I should be fully repaid for my visit
to Hawaii if I carried nothing away
with me but the pictures I have this
day seen."

He replied : " I don't wonder at your
enthusiasm ; the pali is indeed a revela-
tion. It is a page of inspiration which
destroys doubt, and fixes our faith in
Divinity. I once knew two visitors,
however, who returned from the trip
with rancor in their hearts, and dis-
pleasure in their eyes. Like yourself,
they were ladies, and staying at this
very hotel. Much-traveled ladies, and

So ONE SUMMER IN HA WAII.

accustomed to hear French spoken in
all foreign countries, so, when told that
the pali was one of the places to visit,
they concluded that it was the palace.
Having been invited to a reception at
the palace, they directed the clerk to
order a carriage as they were going to
the pali in the evening. His face wore
an expression of wonder, but as the
day was bright, and the moon at her
zenith, he concluded that it was a bit
of sentiment, and did not presume to
question their wishes. The evening
arrived, and so did the carriage. Alas !
the glory of the morning had given
place to the gloom of night, and the
rain was falling in torrents. The
ladies came down in full dress, but well
wrapped for the occasion ; as the clerk
handed them to the carriage, he re-

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 8 1

marked, ' I fear you will have an un-
pleasant drive/ ' Oh, no/ was the
answer, * we have determined to go,
and it does not matter. 5 The coach-
man had received his instructions, and
away they went, through the streets,
and up the valley. The drive seemed
interminable, and at last the ladies
halted the driver, and said, ' Do you
know where you are going ? ' ' Bedad,
I do ; it's to the pali, and I've been
there often/ Settling themselves back
in their seats they concluded that it was
to some country-place of his Majesty's
that they had been invited.

" They were now well in the open
country. An hour or more had elapsed,
the roadway was steep and , rough,
and the rain was still falling. By this
time the ladies had forgotten their

82 ONE SUJIMER IN HA WAIL

French, and in their anxiety and vexa-
tion they said to the driver, * Where is
the palace ? ' ' Palace, begorra,' he said,
* 'tis not the palace at all, at all ; it's
the pali, and there it is/

"And after this there was nothing
to be done but to turn about and re-
trace their steps. But the ladies were
forced to descend in the mire and rain
while the driver accomplished the feat ;
and so, at length, wet and bedraggled,
they arrived at the palace at an hour
when many of the guests were de-
parting, and those who remained won-
dering at the unseasonable arrival.
With sore hearts, they awoke next
morning to find that their adventure
had become the town talk/'

Moral : Do not speak French in
Hawaii.

CHAPTER IX.

THE TELEPHONE SYSTEM BIRDIE THE '

PALMS THE CLIMATE BASE BALL.

THE sun had been awake for hours
when I made my toilet the next morn-
ing ; even the croaking of the doves
had not disturbed me. I must have
been over-weary with the colossal
spectacle of the day before. I said
to the servant who answered my sum-
mons, " I will have my breakfast here ;
and send me ' Birdie/ if you please."

Now " Birdie," without explanation,

might mean anything, from a fairy in

pinafore to an Australian cockatoo ;

but it was neither only a bell-boy, a

83

84 ONE SUMMEJR IN HA WAIL

quaint bit of Oriental humanity,
scarcely ten years of age, with sharp,
almond-shaped eyes, and an incipient
queue, who seemed to do the entire
business of the house with a skip and
a smile. When his little figure dark-
ened the doorway, I said, " Birdie, I
want you to telephone to Mrs. 307.
Give her my compliments and say
that I do not feel quite equal to the
proposed drive to-day ; and that I will
see her later and explain."

This talking 'toy is both a conve-
nience and a nuisance. There are two
companies in Honolulu, with twelve
hundred instruments in place. Nearly
every house can be communicated
with. You fairly live and move be-
neath a network of wires. The shop,
the market, the doctor, the dentist, the

ONE SUMMER IN. HA WAIL

undertaker, all respond to this long-dis-
tance talk, and no small amount of gos-
sip wings its way
over the sensitive
wires.

Even the fault-
finding tourist
must concede that
the "Royal Ha-
waiian Hotel " is
a pleasant home
for strangers. It
is the center of
social life. The
heart of Honolulu
beats upon its bal-
conies. Screened
by its overhanging boughs, it is a
veritable rus in urbe.

I must be pardoned for reverting

86 ONE SUMMER hV HA WAII.

constantly to this tree theme ; but the
tropical foliage fascinates and haunts
me. The palms will ever be a pic-
ture and a poem to me. They seem,
as some have said of Heine's songs,

Endless, delicate variations on the old, old
theme the desire for what is not.

Each stem shoots into the air like a
wish, and the lance-like leaves seem to
drop earthward, with a sigh after the
unattainable. They have all the rest-
lessness of unsatisfied desire as well.
Their branches are forever throbbing,
even when there is no air astir; and
their sentient leaves seem to shiver
and grow pale when the days are cool.

The climate has been a revelation to
me. I feared, from what I had heard
and read, that the melting mood would

describe my condition most of the
time, and that even my enthusiasm
would ooze out. I came prepared to
float about in gauze, and have thus
floated, or rather flitted, but have felt
no inconvenience from heat ; nor have
there been those sudden changes
which render our northern climate so
trying. The temperature has main-
tained an even tenor, scarcely varying
more than five degrees during the
whole time of my sojourn. And even
when nightfall tumbles down from the
zenith, and twilight steals upon us with
its shifting shades of color, we are
wooed out of doors, to sit unharmed
beneath the splendid constellation of
the Hawaiian night.

I used to think in Egypt that the
stars looked down with unblinking

83 OXE SUAIMEJR LV HA WAIL

solemnity upon the desolation of the
dead centuries ; but here they come
forth in countless numbers and glow
with the calm serenity of young moons.

If the world were perfect, it might
be tame, you know. Someone has
wittily said that " that man would be a
great public benefactor who would
invent a new vice." If there was
nothing in Hawaii to try the temper,
and remind us that we are mortal, and
consequently weak, life might become
stagnant. Even as I write, I lift my
fan to brush away a mosquito ; they
are the quiet, genteel sort, however,
that nip you if you are not on the
alert, but do not sing and make them-
selves disagreeable after they have
done their sanguinary work.

I have heard traditions of centi-

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIT.

pedes, and scorpions, and tarantulas,
but the only ones I have seen are pre-
served in alcohol.

Some dark browed St. Patrick must
have had a mission here of old, for
there are no snakes or toads in Hawaii.
Residents say that everything noxious
and disagreeable found in these islands
is a gift from abroad. They even
assert that the mosquitoes were
brought here in an old hulk from
France.

Life at Honolulu seems to be an
easy, pleasure-seeking sort of existence.
Its people are given to all kinds of rec-
reation. Lauaus, or native feasts in
the open air, teas, receptions, break-
fasts, luncheons, musicals, balls, and
excursions strike one as the principal
business of life.

90 ONE SUMMEJt IN HA WAII.

A goodly number of the war ships
of foreign nations ride at anchor in
the bay, and the officers, when not on
duty, devote themselves to the ladies.
They entertain right royally, too, as I
myself can attest.

Saturday afternoons are given up to
base ball, played by gentlemen teams,
composed of residents of Honolulu.
All the island world goes to the
grounds, where in carnages, or on
the grand stand, they witness the
sport. It is a gay scene, and if one
cares nothing for the game itself, there
is ample compensation in the freedom
and the fun.

Many of the young ladies, with
their escorts, go out on horseback ;
some ride astride in the native fashion,
and others in the one-sided way. I

ONE SUMMER IN If A WA1I. 91

.have seen finer steeds, but never more
fearless riders.

On one occasion, a young girl
wheeled her horse quite up to our
carriage, and suddenly stopped, but
the animal, not liking to" be curbed
in his wild career, stood upon his
haunches and pawed the. air ; I
screamed with fright, but am inclined
to think the young miss enjoyed it, and
took this method to salute us ; at all
events she dipped her colors grace-
fully, and, with her horse well in hand,
rode gayly off.

CHAPTER X.

PRESENTATION AT COURT SAILING OF

THE " AUSTRALIA " FLOWER-DECKED

PASSENGERS.

ON the evening of the next day after
we made our excursion to. the pali, his
Majesty's Chamberlain called to inform
us that a presentation had been ar-
ranged for the next morning at the
palace, for a party consisting of Count
So-and-so, and Prince Somebody, and
other untitled lords and ladies, includ-
ing Mrs. R. and myself.

Our presentation was to take place
at eleven o'clock. At a few moments
before the hour we drove to the palace

93

94 ONE SlTMAfER hV HA WAIL

and were received by the vice-chamber-
lain in the grand hall. There we regis-
tered our names in the visitors' book,
and were shown into the " blue
room."

A few moments elapsed before his
Majesty entered, which we employed
in examining the furniture, works of
art, portraits, busts, and bric-a-brac of
the apartment

A life-size portrait of Louis Philippe
of France was at the left of the entrance.
This had been presented to King Kame-
hameha the Third, and arrived the very
day the unfortunate monarch was de-
throned. A bust of Queen Victoria in
white marble, which represented her in
her youth, graced a pedestal beneath
it. The present king's bust, in native
clay, was exceedingly well modeled, and

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIT. 95

above it was a striking likeness in oil
of Queen Kapiolani.

The royal arms, embroidered on
white satin with gold thread, hung as a
standard in one corner, but was less
interesting than several calabashes,
unique in shape, carved out of koa wood,
and which were polished and decorated
very curiously.

The furniture was of different styles
and colors, but blue predominated in
the covering. The hangings were of
blue satin also, which gave a cool,
pleasant air to the room.

Presently the sliding doors opened,
and the king appeared, dressed in a
morning costume of light-colored trou-
sers and Prince Albert coat, buttoned
closely around his shapely figure.

His carriage is erect and dignified,

f)6 0A7i WJ/J/A'A' AV HAWAII.

as befits a sovereign, and when he
smiles, and shows his white teeth, and
his face beams with quiet good-humor,
one forgets the distinctions of race.
He has a natural grace of manner, which
attracts everyone, and which puts
strangers at their ease. He bears his
fifty years with few of the marks which
time stamps on all, as mile stones on
our journey of life. Our interview was
short but pleasant, and he wished us
" aloha" with a cordial hand-shake, ex-
pressing, in unconventional language,
with a kindly word to each, his pleasure
in seeing his visitors.

The following Friday was the day for
the return of the " Australia " to San
Francisco. It was one week since my
arrival, but a week so full of enjoyment
that it really seemed a month, I haci

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAII. 97

formed so many pleasant acquaintances,
seen so much that was new and strange,
that each day seemed lengthened out
to a dozen ordinary ones.

When I came down to breakfast in
the morning the front piazza was filled
with natives, displaying huge baskets
of multi-colored bouquets and leis (pro-
nounced lay) made of flowers suitable
for the purpose.

Their custom of decorating the
friends who are to sail, and wishing
them " aloha " is common to all
classes, and a prettier sight can
scarcely be imagined than a steamer
sailing off, her decks crowded with
men and women, loaded with these
bright emblems of affection. They
are garlanded around the hat, around
the waist, over the arms, and hang

98 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

often to the bottom of the skirt. The
oddity of the display must be seen to
be appreciated. Nowhere else on the
face of the globe, so far as I know,
does this custom prevail, and one must
go to Honolulu to enjoy it. Several
of our acquaintances were to sail, so
we drove to the wharf, which presented
a lively appearance when we arrived.

The native and Charleston bands
were playing, alternately, the national
airs of both countries, interspersed
with the popular airs of the clay. Not
even omitting " McGinty at the bot-
tom of the sea/' a significant reminder,
one would think, to those about set-
ting sail The ship was crowded
above and .below with the passen-
gers and their friends.

It was very warm, but the gauzy

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 99

dresses of the ladies, their pretty shade
hats, the men in white morning cos-
tume, the bright flowers on every hand,
the loving greetings, the gayety and
laughter, combined to make a mise en
scene not soon to be forgotten.

The doctor regaled his immediate
friends with some cooling sherbet,
remarking " that an iced drink was
his prescription for a warm heart."

The admiral and officers of the
Charleston were there, as were many
of the people of Honolulu whom we
had met. It was indeed a gala day,
and the order for " all, ashore " having
been given, our last adieux were said,
and we filed down the gang-plank, and
ranged ourselves in -the most con-
venient places on the wharf to see the
ship move out into the bay. It was

loo ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

truly a novel sight dusky maidens,
covered with the links of friendship
from the sweethearts they were leaving
behind, their bright eyes bathed in
tears as they waved their last good-
bys, stood side by side with their white
sisters, all agitated by one common
sentiment, as they parted from friends,
perhaps never to meet again.

Two of our friends were holding
their little court on the hurricane deck,
where we had just wished them bon voy-
age. Near them was a party of young
people, almost hidden underneath the
wealth of blossoms, picturesque in at-
titude as they leaned over the gun-
wale to catch the last glimpse of the
retreating shore.

" Our turn next," said I, as we
turned to our carriage. " I wonder if

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. IOI

we will have a layout when we go
off?"

" Better than that," said the admi-
ral ; " you shall have a spread on the
Charleston"' .

CHAPTER XI.

ANNIVERSARY OF BIRTHDAY OF KING

KAMEHAMEHA I. RACES AT WAIKIKI

DECORATION BY THE KING.

THE nth of June, the anniversary
of the birth of King Kamehameha I.,
is the grand fte clay of Hawaii.

The Hawaiian Jockey Club are wont
to celebrate the day with races at Wai-
kiki. This is the "Derby" or "Grand
Prix" of Honolulu. The little world
and the large world, the fair world and
the brown world, John Smith and his
Hawaiian Majesty, all go.

There is a stretch of level land by
the sea, a circular course, a grandstand,

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAII. 103

and booths scattered here and there.
It had been raining the evening before,
and our hopes were somewhat damp-
ened, but the sun never shone more
brightly than when I awoke.

There was magic in the morning,
the rain had burnished the leaves, and
we could fairly taste the freshness of
the day. Already there was an un-
wonted stir, brown faces were peering
through the foliage, and strains of mar-
tial music and the boom of distant
cannon could be heard. By ten o'clock
we were en route to the grounds, ac-
companied by our escort, at whose kind
invitation we were to occupy seats in
the Jockey Club building. The sun
glinted through 'the golden gloom of
the acacias, and the royal and loyal
palms seemed to be chanting the

104 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

national anthem as we whirled
along.

The highway was alive with vehicles
of all descriptions, and by the roadside
trooped crowds of brown-faced men
and women, lithe, graceful, and flower-
crowned. The air was filled with the

Gust of laughter, and the gush of song.

" Better to be happy than to be
wise/' I said.

"Yes/ 7 replied my companion, "the
jester's cap and bells are more useful
than the sword of the warrior."

Just in advance of us was the king's
carriage, containing His Majesty, the
chamberlain, and vice-chamberlain.
Suddenly something fell in front of our
horses, and glistened in the sunlight;
the coachman sprang to the ground and

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 105

secured it, while our escort signaled the
chamberlain to stop. It proved to be
something which held the wheel in
place, and a little further on there
might have been a " royal spill," as
my companion remarked. We felt
that we had been instrumental in sav-
ing the king's life, and were entitled to
a decoration of some kind.

When we arrived the scene about
the entrance to the grounds was ani-
mated in the extreme. Booths had
been erected on every hand for traffic.
There, offered for sale, were badges
of yellow and purple, the king's colors;
fans and frivolities of all kinds, and leis
of colored flowers, and of dark bur-
nished leaves, intermingled with berries
of moka-henna. Itinerant pedlers of
ice-cream doled out their frozen sweet-

lotf ONE SUMMER IN HA WAII.

ness to the children at five cents a dish.
The merry-go-round for the young folk
reminded me of the fairs of Old Eng-
land, and as we took our seats on the
balcony of the club house, a diminutive
" Derby " was being enacted around
me.

The ladies, with fluttering fans and
fluttering hearts, were attired in gauze ;
the men wore their favorite colors, for
the horses were owned by gentlemen
of Honolulu, or adjacent islands, and
each seemed to scan the programme
for some hint which would help them
to win gloves, hats, and perchance
hearts. The king's box was adjoining
the one we occupied, and when His Ma-
jesty entered, accompanied by Princess
Liliuokaulani, his sister, his chamber-
lain, and others of the royal household,

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 107

the band struck up the national anthem,
and we all rose to our feet. His Ma-
jesty was attired in a white morning'
suit, and wore a straw hat, around which
was wound a silken scarf of yellow
and gold.

, The native band, which is composed
of about forty musicians, is a conspic-
uous feature of Honolulu life, and re-
quires more than a passing mention in
these- pages. The members are all
natives except the leader, who is a
German named Berger. The band is
employed by the government at a cost
of $50,000 a year. They are profi-
cient, and render both classical and
popular music with skill and expres-
sion, and when one considers what
easy-going, pleasure-loving creatures
they are, and how difficult it must

io8 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

have been to make them adhere to the
practice long enough to perfect them-
selves, enough praise cannot be given
their leader, who has accomplished
wonders with these music-loving chil-
dren.

Herr Berger has composed a piece
which has been adopted as their na-
tional air, called " Hawaii Ponoi,"
which is played whenever the king
is present.

Racing is much the same the world
over. A tap of a bell, a flash of color,
and away they go ; a murmur of ex-
citement, a moment of anxious peer-
ing through the field glasses, and a
cheer at the finish.

Horses are the factors in the mad-
dest, wildest sports we know. A neck
and neck rush down the home stretch

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 109

will arouse ennui to enthusiasm ; and
I can imagine nothing more exciting
than a splendid mount and the cry of
tally-ho.

HO ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

The incident of the morning was
afterward related to the company by
His Majesty, who gracefully threw
around each of us a beautiful lei of
green with the moka-hcnna berries,
so much admired by us. These
we wore for the remainder of the
day and preserved afterward as sou-
venirs.

One cannot help being charmed with
the amiability and innate goodness of
the native race. They held their im-
provised picnics under the trees, and
watched the races through the low
paling in a quiet and orderly way.
The horses owned by the natives were
the favorites with them, and they took
their defeat as a personal calamity ; but
when success crowned their efforts, joy
was depicted on every countenance,

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. ill

and their enthusiasm was unbounded.
There was no drunkenness, however,
and no disorder of any kind.

As I looked at the jovial company, and
watched the gay scenes being- enacted
on every hand, I bethought me of a
similar scene, only on a scale of far
greater magnificence. I recalled the
booths, the grand stand, the coaches,
the horses, the jockeys in their varie-
gated costumes, and the congregated
thousands. Scarcely a year had
elapsed since I had seen the " Grand
Prix' 1 at Paris, and it seemed, for the
moment, as if this little island had
floated off with me into the blue Pa-
cific, and that I was looking at some
mirage which had taken on indistinct
form and feature.

The day waned, and the sun hung

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAII.

low in the west, when the motley
throng of vehicles hastened homeward,
escorted by gay equestrians and tawny
pedestrians. The exuberance of the
morning was no longer manifest,
but supreme content and satisfaction
had taken its place, as if joy had been
realized and hope fulfilled.

CHAPTER XII.

MANOA VALLEY, OR VALLEY OF RAIN-
BOWS LUNALILO HOME.

LOOKING upward from the seaside,
half-way to the heavens Is a depression
in the range of peaks, whence the cool-
ing breeze from the windward side
falls upon Waikiki. This gorge is
nearly always canopied by clouds, or
the ghost of clouds ; sometimes thin
and frail as a bridal veil. The sun
pierces this condensed vapor, and em-
broiders the emerald robes of this
mountain dell with rainbow -shreds ;
hence the name, Manoa, or Rainbow
Valley.

114 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

These white mists are simply the
messengers of the wind, and are by no
means ominous of rain, although their
materialized kinfolk, the clouds, gather
frequently in dark masses and let fall
their burden of water.

I determined to gratify a desire to
visit this spot, and selected what
promised to be a pleasant day for the
drive. The clouds hung high in the

heavens, and the valley looked serene

and inviting in the distance.

Our roadway took us past the Oahu
College. This is a well-appointed in-
stitution, where young men and young
women matriculate after leaving the
pririiary schools, and where they can
obtain a fair education.

A fine building in the college grounds
is devoted to the laboratory and mu-

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 115

seum, where an interesting collection
of minerals found on the island is
shown.

Upon a subsequent occasion I was
present at the closing exercises of the
term, and listened to the theses of the
graduating class ; and they certainly
seemed to me to be as creditable as
some I have listened to elsewhere.

The stone wall which surrounds the
college grounds was well-nigh covered
with creeping vines, which proved to
be the night-blooming cereus. In-
numerable buds were sleeping in the
sunlight, and waiting for nightfall to
burst into beauty.

From the college grounds the road
constantly ascends until the valley is
reached.

There were evidences of superabun-

ONE SUMMER IN IIA WAIT.

dant rainfall on every hand. The taro
patches- were fairly afloat, and the
plants seemed to revel in the bath.

The mountains, green to their summits,
were corrugated with deep gulches,
through which invisible streams flowed.
You could hear the liquid sound of
waters, bubbling and gushing beneath

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. II?

a riotous luxuriance of leaves and
vines.

One silver streamlet broke from its
cover, and bounded over the rocks,
darting under feathery ferns and
bracken of immense size, and came out
in unexpected places, as if playing hide
and seek with the flowers.

The shadows of the winged messen-
gers of tlie winds were ever shifting,
and far above the highest peaks could
be seen the frowning faces of the
clouds themselves, threatening but
passive.

We continued to mount skyward be-
tween hedges of wild lantana ; the road-
way was rough, steep, and narrow.
For miles our patient horse, " Dandy,"
had dragged us up this ascent, but at
last came to a dead halt upon the

Ii8 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

brink of a pool filled with rocks and
brushwood. The driver urged mildly,
then coaxed, and finally threatened.
" Dandy' 7 evidently thought it better to
lie down and die, rather than to attempt
to drag us farther. He looked around,
apparently appealing to me; the re-
proachful look of that horse will haunt
me till my dying day. He knew there
was no valley, for the best of reasons
it was all hill. Finding no sympathy,
and threatened with the whip, he made
the plunge ; there was a crash, a splash,
a scream, and we were safely over. We
went on, because we could not go back ;
our only hope was that some favorable
turn would bring us out upon some
possible highway ; but even this was
dissipated when we ran abut against
a gateway upon which was written, " No

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

Thoroughfare." It might as well have
been Dante's famous inscription over
the portals of Hades.

With much difficulty our engineer
reversed the wheels, and turned
" Dandy " about ; he said as plainly as
a horse could say, " I told you so"; he
was angry, I knew it by the toss of his
head, and by his scowling ears, and I
wonder that he did not emphasize his
anger with his heels.

Horses must have souls ; the law of
compensation requires it, otherwise
gross injustice would disgrace some-
body. I am sure that carriages are not
immortal, so. that in the next world
" Dandy" will be out of the traces ; be-
sides, there we shall make our excur-
sions on wings and not on wheels.

We stumbled down the gulch on our

120 dtfJE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

homeward way ; if there was a valley, I
had not seen it

A rainbow is called a " bow of
promise"; in this instance it "was a
promise not fulfilled, for it never came
out of the cloud. As a child, I have a
dim remembrance of reaching after a
rainbow which I could not obtain ; that
I should thus repeat the experiment,
when time had taught me that rain-
bows were fickle and ephemeral, is a
sad comment on the wisdom of ex-
perience.

When we crawled out of the gorge,
we looked down upon a magnificent
panorama of sea and shore and valley.
Our discomforts were forgotten, and
even " Dandy " seemed amiable.

As we drew near home, we passed
the extensive grounds of the " Lunalilo

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 121

Home 7 ' for aged native men and
women. It was founded and endowed
by the late King Lunalilo, and is a
noble charity. The building is a fine
structure, with long wings on either
side, and the grounds are beautifully
laid out and planted.

I bethought me that it would be a
fitting opportunity to visit the place.
I could thus compensate myself for
the loss of the rainbow, and perchance
mollify " Dandy " by a seasonable rest.

As we ascended the steps, the in-
mates seated about the veranda
greeted us with the customary
"aloha," and the matron met us at
the door, and kindly bade us welcome.
She showed us to the reception room,
and subsequently through the building.

It seems that one wing of the build-

122 ONE SUMMER IN HAW AH.

ing is set apart for those who are sin-
gle, and the other for those who are
married. As we were passing through
the connubial quarter, I noticed an
elderly woman, of sixty or more, sitting
at her door in blissful contentment.
She greeted us with her face aglow,
and as we passed on the matron ex-
plained that she was a bride, having
just been married to an elderly inmate
of the home. The trousseau consisted
of a red Holoku, or " Mother Hub-
bard," wrapper and a pair of shoes ;
the wedding tour was a trip from the
bachelor wing of the house to the
bridal chamber ; and the hearts of the
guests were made glad by an extra
allowance of one-fingered /0z. It was
not love in a cottage, but love in a
palace; and why- ^should they not

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

marry ? There was no wolf at the
door ; and besides, they had nothing
.else to do.

I am not sure but it would be well
to require paupers living at the pub-
lic expense to marry, regardless of
sex ; it would at least economize space
and bed linen.

When we departed, the simple folk
followed us into the grounds, filling
our hands with magnolias, roses, and
the choicest of flowers.

I thought, as I drove home-ward,
that this grand charity was the result
of the teachings of the missionaries,
who had sown the divine seed.

CHAPTER XIII.

MUSICALE AT WAIKIKI NATIVE TRI-
TONS A TROPICAL NIGHT.

WAIKIKI, place of pleasant memories.
I went again not in the flush of morn,
to watch the racing horses, but in the
gloaming, when the moon was at her
full, and shed her white light on sea
and land.

The day had died divinely, and the
night seemed only a more delicate day,
as we drove down where . the shore
sloped serenely, and the waves danced
daintily to a seaside villa, to listen
to some music.

Our hostess, a fine musician herself,

ON SUMMER IN HA IVAII.

had arranged a programme which had
been in rehearsal for some time. The
best musical talent of Honolulu, en-
tirely amateur, took part. The house,

half hidden in its glowing gardens,
faced the crescent of the bay. The
lanai, decorated with banks of flowers,
palm leaves, and pendent vines, had
been provided with seats, so that 250
persons were comfortably seated when
the overture was played.

The blinds were drawn while the

126 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

music was being rendered, but as the
last strains of Mendelssohn's cantata,
" Hear My Prayer," were dying away,
the blinds went up, as if by magic, and
a flood of harmony was poured into
the ear of night. The waves seemed
to take up the refrain, wafting it over
the bosom of the deep, while the rip-
pling surf repeated it again and again
as it crept up the shining sands. It
was a delightful conception, the real-
ization of enchantment, and we waited,
enraptured, for the magician's wand to
shift the scene. It came when the
room was cleared, and the dancing
began, while brown-faced musicians
played on stringed instruments and
sang as interludes their weird native
songs.

The whole picture was Oriental ;

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 127

the tremulous palms whispered in the
breeze, the air was balmy with the
breath of tropical flowers, the sky was
cloudless and luminous, and the sea
scintillated and flashed with phosphor-
escent light.

Those of us who did not care to
dance wandered out into the white
moonlight and down by the ocean
side, to drink our fill of the magical
romance of the hour.

" Nights such as this were never
made for sleep," I said to my com-
panion.

" No," he replied, " the transient
death would surely rob us of a fore-
taste of Paradise."

Waikiki is noted as a bathing resort,
and it is indeed an ideal bathing place.
The dark waves dash foam-tipped

128

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

against the outer reef, while within,
the calm, pure water glides gently over

a sandy floor, where the bathers dis-
port themselves.

Here, of old, it is said, the natives
were wont to indulge in their aquatic
sports. Clad only in their malos, a
piece of cloth wrapped about their

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 129

loins, with their sea sledges, they
would go boldly out to meet the in-
coming breakers, and when the huge
mountain of water seemed about to
overwhelm them, they would deftly
dive beneath it, and, rising to the sur-
face beyond, would poise upon the
crest, and reclining, or kneeling, and
even standing upon the sledge, would
sweep shoreward with the speed of the
wind, shouting, and clapping their
hands with glee.

Those who succeeded received their
meed of praise and applause, and those
who failed were greeted with jeers and
laughter. This competition must have
created the race of lithe and graceful
Tritons which Captain Cook found.

These sports are still in vogue, I am
, although I have not seen them.

130 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAII.

Ere I leave the islands I hope to see
more of the natives in their unsophis-
ticated state. It is certainly delicious
to find a people who never get beyond
their childhood, who have no artificial
wants, and who are simple, amiable,
and generous.

Sitting under the trees in the
grounds of our host, on this mem-
orable night, a gentleman, who wore
the button of the order of the Crown
of Hawaii in his lapel, related to me an
incident of His Majesty, which illus-
trates his character, and which certainly
redounds to his credit. And as he,/#r
excellence, is the type of his race, it
might justly be considered an illus-
trated edition of the heart of Hawaii.

I venture to tell the story as it was
told to me. He said, " I first met His

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 131

Majesty under peculiar circumstances.
I had been in Honolulu some days,
and was walking in the street with a"
member of* the Hawaiian Cabinet, to
whom I had brought letters. We
chanced at the moment to be speak-
ing of the king, and as we turned the
corner of the street I saw a stalwart
figure, in Prince Albert coat and con-
ventional tile, approaching ; my com-
panion had barely time to say, in a low
tone of voice, ' His Majesty/ when
the two met, halted, and exchanged
salutations.

" The gentleman said, ' With your
permission, sire, I shall be pleased, in
this informal way, to present my
friend/

"There was a gracious bow, and a
pleasant word to me in response, but

I3 2 ONE SUMMER IN

I was particularly struck with the un-
ostentatious dignity of the man, and
felt the natural reserve which it en-
gendered.

" As the two fell into conversation, I
stood somewhat apart, and noticed
casually, on the opposite side of the
street, the bent form and wrinkled face
of an old native woman. She seemed
to be standing in a supplicating atti-
tude, on the outer edge of the walk,
and to be devouring His .Majesty with
her eyes ; the king looked up, and, as
he caught sight of her, he said, * Ex-
cuse me for a moment, .gentlemen ; do
not leave/ He then walked directly
across to the old woman, who ad-
vanced a step or two, with clasped
hands, to meet him, and taking his
hand in hers pressed it reverently to

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 133

her lips. Thus they stood in earnest
conversation, she looking up, meantime,
into his face with affectionate solici-
tude ; and I noticed that when he had
released his hand from her grasp he
lifted it, and patted her gently on the
shoulder. Having said what he had
to say, he stooped and kissed her
wrinkled cheek, and then came back
to us.

"I know nothing more of the cir-
cumstances than I have related. I do
know that with me the ice was broken ;
heart spoke to heart ; behind the dig-
nity I saw the man. Since then he
has been more than a king to me, he
has been my friend."

CHAPTER XIV.

BREAKFAST AT THE PALACE HAWAIIAN

CURIOSITIES.

HAVING been invited to breakfast
with His Majesty, we arrived promptly
at' the hour designated, and were ush-
ered into the " blue room " of the
palace, where the king and his house-
hold, consisting of his sister, the Prin-
cess Liliuokaulani, and her husband,
Governor Dominus ; Colonel Macfar-
lane, the chamberlain ; Mrs. Robert-
son, wife of the vice-chamberlain, and
maid of honor to the queen, and the
Hon. Mr. Cleghorn, a brother-in-law
of the king, were waiting to receive us.
134

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 135

After the presentations, the doors of
the breakfast room were thrown open.
Covers had been laid for eighteen, and
the table was wonderfully attractive,
with its floral decorations ; the center-
piece consisting of enormous pink
water-lilies, garnished with maiden
hair fern and rare exotics. These
water-lilies are to me the wonder of
the floral kingdom. I had seen them
floating upon the little lakes in
Kapiolani Park. As large as bowls,
they spread their petals under the
shade of the Algeroba's, white, pink-
tipped, purple, red, and green.

The walls of the room were hung
with the portraits of the former kings
and queens of Hawaii. The windows
opened upon the lawn where the band
was playing a programme which had

13*5 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIT.

been engraved on the menu. Upon
the card placed at the plate of each
guest appeared the crest of the king,
a golden crown, resting upon a crim-
son cushion, underneath which was a
scroll bearing the name.

I had the honor to be placed di-
rectly on the left of His Majesty. He
conversed freely and pleasantly in a
low tone of voice, and manifested a
varied information upon many topics ;
while he maintained with infinite tact
the dignity befitting his station.

We sat down at half-past nine, and
arose from the table at twelve o'clock.
Coffee was served upon the veranda,
whither we all repaired. The gentle-
men smoked, while we listened to
some operatic selections, delightfully
rendered on the piano by Count

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 137

Wachtmeister, of Sweden, one of the
guests.

After this we strolled into the
throne-room on the opposite side of
the grand hall ; the decorations for
the ball had been removed, and it pre-
sented rather a bare appearance. A
beautiful Persian rug, however, cov-
ered the center of the floor, and stiff,
straight-backed chairs were ranged on
either side.

We were here shown some Ha-
waiian curiosities ; among which was
a great feather robe, made of thou-
sands of tiny gold-colored feathers,
plucked from beneath the wing of a
small bird called the Oo. Only one
such feather was found under each
wing, and so many of the birds have
been killed that now they are quite

138 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

extinct. This robe is a wonderful
piece of workmanship, and is the
result of years of patient labor. Its
value can hardly be estimated. The
wearing of it is a prerogative of the
king; that worn by the Kamahame-
has was buried with Lunalilo, the last
of the direct line.

Another curiosity shown to us was
a scarf, about two yards in length and
eight inches in breadth. It was cov-
ered with the golden feathers, and in-
tersected at regular intervals with
rows of human teeth, taken from
chiefs killed upon the field of battle ;
and thus preserved as a token of
prowess.

Numbers of the tall Kahili were
displayed, diverse in color and orna-
mentation. Some of the handles were

-ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 139

formed of the thigh bones of enemies
slain in war. No greater indignity
could be heaped upon them than thus
to make use of their bones to bear the
emblems of royalty.

The Jubilee gift of the Queen of
Hawaii to Queen Victoria was a royal
monogram of large size, formed of the
golden feathers of the Oo, and the
work of Queen Kapiolani's own hands.
The monogram is mounted on blue
plush, with the royal arms and the
arms of the Queen of Hawaii on either
side. The outer border, set with gold
stars of eight points, represents the
eight inhabited islands of the Hawaiian
group. Only the picture of the mono-
gram was shown to us, but I had seen
the original in St. James Palace, Lon-
don, among other gifts sent Queen

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

Victoria on her fiftieth Jubilee cele-
bration.

We saw the model of a grass hut,
diminutive, of course, but exact in de-
tail.

There were likewise strings of little
shells, found only on the Island of
Niihau, of which lets were made for
royalty alone.

Rolls of tapa cloth were unfolded, of
which the dresses of the women were
formerly made. This tapa was manu-
factured from the bark of a certain
tree. After it was stripped from the
tree, it was beaten to a pulp with mal-
lets of stone, and then stretched to the
desired width and length, and left to
dry in the sun ; after which it was
dyed with various colors ; the patterns
of the later productions indicate that

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIT. 141

calicoes had already been introduced
into the islands. Tapa cloth is no
longer made, and these relics of the
past are rare and valuable.

We were shown beautiful calabashes,
elaborately carved ; glossy bowls, made
from the cocoa-nut ; sandal-wood,
which at one time was the chief
export of the islands ; and many old
weapons and cooking utensils which
were used by the natives in their sav-
age state.

It was our misfortune not to have
seen the queen, she being too ill to
leave her apartments.
- As we were taking leave, His Maj-
esty referred to the fact that the next
day would be the Fourth of July, and
that a yacht race would be one of the
features of the occasion, and thereupon

142 ONE SUMMER IN HA IV A II.

invited the party to come to his boat-
house, at 2 P. M., to view the finish
of the race.

CHAPTER XV.

FOURTH OF JULY AT HONOLULU A

ROYAL JOKE DIVING BOYS A YACHT

RACE.

THE celebrations of National fete
days are, as a rule, noisy demonstra-
tions ; essential, p'erhaps, to keep alive a
proper patriotic sentiment ; but never-
theless very trying to the nerves. In
my own country, upon such days, I
would fain steal away and put cotton in
my ears. The ubiquitous small boy,
with his drum and 'trumpet and fire-
crackers, becomes a terror ; and the oc-
casional large boy, with his excess of
" Hail Columbia," becomes a nuisance.

143

144 ONE SUMMER IJST HA WAII.

It may seem strange then that, in a for-
eign land, I should feel the excitement
of the memorable day, and ardently par-
ticipate in its festivities ; but we are
thus constituted. I have seen the tears
standing in the eyes of a strong man
when his country's flag was unexpect-
edly unfurled in a remote corner of
the earth.

Early the next morning I was awak-
ened by the peals of artillery, and
went forth to find the streets festooned
and. gay with flaunting banners.

At ten o'clock we repaired to the
Opera House, where the surgeon of the
Flagship Charleston read the Declara-
tion of Independence, and the Ameri-
can Minister delivered an oration.

At eleven o'clock we went by invita-
tion on board the U. S. ship Nzfisic, to

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL *45

witness the start of the yachts on a
forty mile race, and afterward saw a
rowing match between picked crews
of the Charleston and Nipsic.

At one o'clock we returned to the
shore and lunched at the house of an
American gentleman in the town.

At two o'clock we went to the boat-
house of His Majesty to witness the
finish of the yacht race.

The king and queen, with the Prin-
cess Liliuokalani and her husband
Governor Dominis, and others of the
royal household, were already there.
Some slight refreshments were served,
and we amused ourselves by watching
the bobbing heads of the diving boys
under the balcony. Their wonderful
agility in securing the nickels thrown
into the water was amusing enough.

146 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

The king is a practical joker of the
innocent order, and .a characteristic in-
cident was related to me of the kinds
of fun sometimes enjoyed by him. The

celebrated Hungarian violinist, Edou-
ard Remenyi, was beihg entertained
one afternoon at the boathouse by
His Majesty, with a half dozen other
friends, when one of the party proposed
to take a swim, and had crossed over to
a bathing place a few hundred yards

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 147

away, where a number of Hawaiian
naiads were diving and splashing.
- The gentleman at once established
pleasant relations with the maidens, and
a grand game of romps ensued.

Kalakaua called the wife of the chief
boatman, and with her assistance ar-
ranged a dummy woman on the bal-
cony overlooking the sea.

He then sent a boatman to pull
across to the gentleman and tell him
that his wife was waiting for him, and
disapproved of his proceedings. The
gentleman came back in a chopfallen
mood and was received by the king,
who begged him not to approach his
wife until His Majesty had made peace
for him. After keeping him shivering
for twenty minutes or so, he then
gravely led him to the dummy.

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIT.

The yacht Hawaii won the race,
which greatly pleased. His Majesty, for
he had once owned it, and was anxious
that her record of being a good craft
should not be broken. She came sail-
ing in, in fine shape, some minutes be-
fore the others.

At four o'clock we paid our respects
to the American Minister and his fam-
ily, who, assisted by the Consul, his
wife, and daughter, were receiving, a
throng of visitors ; from thence we re-
turned to the hotel to make ready for
the ball in the evening.

The streets were filled with a motley
crowd who had enjoyed the festivities ;

All day their echoing pulses had stirred-

To song and laughter, and jesting word.

Our national fete day had evidently
been well observed ; even the firecrack-

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 149

ers were not wanting, for I saw a China-
man tossing them into the air with
apparent delight

The ball was held at the armory, and
the large hall was gay with a profusion
of flowers, and brilliant with the uni-
forms of the officers, and the silks and
jewels of the ladies.

At an early hour I retired, somewhat
weary, for it was more Fourth of July
than I had experienced since my child-
hood.

CHAPTER XVI.

THE KAMEHAMEHA SCHOOL MADAM

BISHOP A MUSEUM OF ANTIQUITIES

KALI HI.

THE day after the Fourth, one of
the ladies of our party left for San
Francisco. Someone has truly said
that those who remain feel the separa-
tion more than those who go. I felt,
indeed, that something pleasant had
gone out of my life; and I might have
moped about in a disconsolate mood
had I not pulled myself together, and
gone off, in sheer desperation, to
visit the Kamehameha school, the
buildings of which I had frequently

150

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

noticed when driving on the Palama
avenue.

This school was founded and en-
dowed by the generosity of Madam
Bernise Panahi Bishop. She be-
queathed, for this purpose, a large tract
of land valued at $474,000, with an an-
nual income of $36,000, and it may
well be considered a sacred trust to
perpetuate the memory of its Christian
founder and benefactress.

Madam Bishop was the daughter of
Paki, one of the Oahu chiefs, and
Konia, his wife, who was a grand-
daughter of Kamehameha I. She was
born December 19, 1831, and was mar-
ried to Mr. Bishop when she was nine-
teen years of age. She died in 1884,
and left this large property to be de-
voted to the education of native boys

152 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

and girls. Madam Bishop inherited
this property by reason of being the
heir of the Kamehameha estates, and
the schools appropriately perpetuate
that name.

The boys' school was opened with
forty-five scholars, in 1887. Up to the
present time there have been $1,000,000
expended, until now there are more
than thirty buildings completed and in
course of construction, while about
one hundred students are being
educated.

The boys have a becoming uniform
of cadet gray, with black trimmings,
and present a pleasing appearance
when marching into town in military
order to attend church.

The principal kindly showed us
through the building, and gave us all

ONE SUMMER hV HA WAIL

the desired information about this use-
ful and practical charity.

The boys are taught carpentry,
blacksmithing, plumbing, printing, sew-
ing, cooking, laundry work, stone cut-
ting, wood-turning, besides being
trained in colloquial and written Eng-
lish, mathematics, vocal music, geog-
raphy, bookkeeping, history, hygiene,
with special lessons in practical moral-
ity.

A moderate charge is made for tui-
tion, which the boys are expected to
defray by manual labor done in the din-
ing hall and kitchen. They are taught
to work the sewing machine, and to
make their clothing and other neces-
sary articles. We were shown samples
of their work in the different depart-
ments, which were highly creditable.

154 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

A museum, built of stone quarried
upon the premises, is in course of con-
struction. It is a showy building of
modern architecture, and especially
designed for the large collection of
Hawaiian antiquities left by Mrs.
Bishop and Queen Emma. In the
rear of the museum, an assembly hall
is being built, to be used as recitation
rooms for the various classes. Mr.
Bishop defrays the cost of both of
these buildings, thus leaving the entire
revenue of the estate to be devoted to
the maintenance of the school. I
noticed that native woods were being
made use of for the interior work of
the museum ; the beautiful koa, which
resembles mahogany and is susceptible
of a high polish, predominating.

The view from the arched doorway,

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 155

taking in Diamond Head, the Punch
Bowl, the ocean, the town, and the
intermediate country, is exceedingly
fine.

A girls' school, under the same aus-
pices, is to be established as soon as
the funds of the estate will permit ;
and is to be located at Waikiki,
near the Lunalilo Home for aged
people.

The name of Madam Bishop will
ever be revered by the Hawaiian peo-
ple. She has erected a monument to
her memory more enduring than bronze
or marble.

We drove from the school to one of
the country places on the Palama ave-
nue, which has been named by its
owner Kalihi. There are only twenty-
five acres in the place, but it has a

156

ONE SUMMER IN

charming stretch of lawn, shaded by
stately trees, and gardens aglow with
bloom. Thus far only cottages for the

servants have been erected. The pro-
prietor calls it his " Chicken Farm/'
but never a chicken peeped about the
place that I could discover.

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 157

We sat under the widespreading
umbrella tree, and ate our fill of deli-
cious melons ; and came away, ladened
with a wealth of roses and flowers.

CHAPTER XVII.

HIGH TEA OPENING OF THE HOSPITAL

BY THE QUEEN THE CHURCHES OF

HONOLULU.

I SOMETIMES found myself wonder-
ing how, in this remote corner of the
earth, with only semi-o'ccasional com-
munication with the outside world,
such a nice observance of the usages of
social life could be -maintained ; and
this pertains not only to manners, but
to modes of dress, house decoration,
and all the accessories of entertain-
ment

The delicious climate and the beau-
ties of nature have undoubtedly had

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 159

much to do with this, for we find that
where individuals are fighting for
mere existence they have little time
to cultivate the refinements of life ;
but where the sun glows, and the skies
smile, and the flowers bloom twelve
months in the year ; where peace and
plenty reign, and even the children of
nature break into constant song, the
influences must be elevating.

I was forcibly reminded of this as I
met a group of ladies at the house of
a mutual friend where we were being
entertained.

The rooms had been converted into
a bower of roses, the doorway leading
to the fernery had been draped with
passion vines and sprays of golden
shower, behind which native musi-
cians, on the guitar, violin, taropatch,

i6o

ONE SUMMER IN ITA WAIL

and ukelele, were rendering delightful
music.

The hostess dispensed her hospital-
ity with ease and tact, and I could

but remark the gentle courtesy and
well-bred tone which prevailed. I
found that these ladies were not mere
butterflies of fashion, but were active
workers in the charities of Honolulu/

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 161

and that the poor and the sick were
not forgotten by them.

One of the most pleasing reminis-

jjU,

cences of my stay in the islands was
the opening of the new Lying-in Hos-
pital, founded by the queen. It is a
comfortable, many-roomed cottage, sur-
rounded by a park of trees and shrubs,-
and the grounds are cool and inviting.
Tents had been pitched upon the
lawns, where refreshments were
served ; while the native band dis-
coursed sweet music not far away. A
large number of ladies were in attend-
ance, and the queen, with her suite,
was present for the purpose of dedi-
cating the hospital. Her knowledge
of English is imperfect, and she spoke
to us through an interpreter. She
said some pleasant words to me and

162 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

seemed deeply interested in the sue-
cess of the hospital, which she had
so largely contributed to establish.

Subsequently the wife of th Eng-
lish clergyman, who is the president of
the institution, explained more fully
the objects of the charity.

We were shown through the rooms
which were furnished and made ready
for their future occupants. There
were modern beds with immaculate
linen, and covered with mosquito net-
ting ; but whether, as one lady re-
marked, the natives, who were to
occupy them, would like them as well
as beds upon the floor, to which they
had been accustomed, was a perplexing
question.

"No matter whether they do or
not," said another, "they are to be

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII, 163

civilized as well as Christianized, even
if they are made uncomfortable."

An address was read in English by
the queen's interpreter, who afterward
spoke in the native tongue. Although
it was all Greek to me, I listened at-
tentively, and there was certainly grace
in his manner, and he must have spoken
with some oratorical effect.

The language is soft and musical,
composed as it is almost entirely of
vowels.

I said "Aloha" to the queen, who re-
sponded "Aloha nui," with a pleasant
smile, as I took my departure. Her
Majesty is of pure native blood, a de-
scendant of one of the ancient- chiefs.
She has a large estate in her own
right, and is much beloved by her peo-
ple for her numerous charities.

164 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIT.

A native church, called kaiwaiaho,
is an interesting place to visit.

In the grounds at the right of the
entrance is the Gothic tomb of King
Lunalilo. The church is a large, sub-
stantial building of coral rock ; the
native members contributing each a
stone for this purpose. The interior
is plainly finished, and has a gallery
on three sides, and a fine organ over
the pulpit.

The choir consists of eight young
women, dressed in whitq, and eight
young men in black jackets. They
sang the hymns with much pathos
and expression, and their voices
seemed to blend and harmonize
perfectly.

The pastor is a missionary, who has
resided in the islands many years,

OMJS SUMMER IN HAWAII. 165

and he has for an assistant a native
preacher.

The service appeared to be con-
ducted much the same as that of a
Methodist or Presbyterian church, and
the worshipers seemed very devout.
As I looked into the earnest faces of
that large congregation, I felt that the
natives had taken not only the faith,
but the form. It was the Puritanism
of the past transplanted in the hearts
of the heathen, and it had wrought its
work of transformation.

During my stay in Honolulu I
went several times to the English
cathedral. The rector is familiar
with the Hawaiian language, and the
service is often rendered ' in that
tongue.

Native boys are specially trained as

l66 ONE BUMMER IN If A WAIT.

choristers, and they render the musical
portion of the service with fine
effect.

Adjacent to the church there is a
school for girls, under the auspices of
the Anglican Sisterhood.

The cathedral is a fine structure,
built of gray stone, brought out from
England for that purpose, but is not
yet finished according- to the archi-
tect's plans ; but it is a monument to
the zeal and energy of pastor and
people.

There are also a Catholic church,
two Congregational churches, and a
so-called Union church in the town.

A Sabbath stillness seems to reign
on Sunday. The shops are closed ;
church going is almost universal ; the

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAII. 167

streets and wharves are well nigh de-
serted, and the only noticeable sound
is the peal of the church bells calling
to prayer.

CHAPTER XVIII.

TRIP TO MAUI AND HAWAII THE " LIKI-

LIKl" SCENERY ON MAUI WAILUKU.

I HAD contemplated a trip to the
islands of Maui and Hawaii for some
time, and the opportune moment
seemed to have arrived. These are
the show places of the Hawaiian king-
dom, and no one should think of leav-
ing Honolulu without visiting them.
Upon Maui is situated the largest ex-
tinct crater in the world. And upon
Hawaii the most wonderful active vol-
cano.

Although the difficulties and dis-
comforts of the trip had been vividly

168

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 169

painted, I was promised full and com-
plete compensation if I held on tena-
ciously to the end; and I found out
afterward what this holding on meant.
I am not sorry that I went ; I am only
delighted that I escaped.

The plans of our party were matured
on Monday morning, ?o only one day
was allowed for preparation, as the
steamer was to leave on Tuesday.

Dresses of blue flannel were to be
made, and stout shoes and gloves, and
broad-brimmed hats were to be pur-
chased, and all were to be compressed
into the smallest possible space, as we
were gravely informed that we could
take only a thimbleful of luggage.

The trip was expected to consume
at least two weeks, if not three, and
pray tell, how can an entire woman ex-

17 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

pect to live in a thimble for two
whole weeks ? But we did, and
even the thimble proved to be a
burden.

Tuesday p. M. found us fully equipped,
the last purchase made, the last strap
buckled, and our party safely on board
the Likiliki, the little steamer that
plies between the islands. She was
lying lazily at the wharf, and received
with a sort of sardonic indifference a
motley concourse of confiding passen-
gers. There were whites, half-whites,
natives, Chinese, Japanese, and Por-
tuguese. The natives were flower-
crowned as usual, "as if going to their
own funerals," remarked a gentleman
lugubriously. Even the custom, for
the time being, had lost its charm; so
much does the grace and sentiment of

ONE SUMMER JN HAWAII. 171

an act depend upon the circumstances
which attend it.

The wise ones were spreading their
mattresses on the forward deck, to be
prepared for the moment when the
boat should be in her throes. The
rolling and pitching capacity of the
craft was well known, and the channel
we were to cross proverbial for its
roughness.

The deck was a medley of things
animate and inanimate. There were
men, women, and children, dogs and
cats, cocoa-nuts, bananas, calabashes of
poi, dried fish, and mats intermingled
in inextricable confusion. Noah's ark
must have been a tidy craft, and the
tower of Babel as silent as the tomb
in comparison.

The cabins and staterooms were

172 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

small and uncomfortable, and no man
or woman dared trust themselves in
such quarters. Each person selected
an improvised couch on the deck, under
the canopy of heaven.

I had " sailed the seas over" without
once having succumbed to seasickness ;
but I had reason to think that my hour
had come ; in fact, I felt sick in antici-
pation ; and I sat on my thimble the
picture of heroic resignation.

I found some consolation in the
beautiful view as we steamed out of
the harbor.

We passed the Charleston and the
other war vessels, sailed serenely
through the narrow channel, with the
breakers lashing the coral reef on
either side, and breasted the long
surges of. the open sea. We rounded

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 173

Diamond Head, with Honolulu and
the distant mountains in full view.
The stately cocoa-palms, which fringe
the shore, seemed to bid us a solemn
and silent adieu. The sun was setting
in a glory of golden cloud, and minia-
ture rainbows gleamed on the crested
wavos in its crimson wake. I watched
the mountain peaks with their shifting
shades of pink and purple, until the
smoldering fires of the day grew dim,
and the stars announced the night.

When I came back from my abstrac-
tions I found that the men, women,
and dogs had curled up in the com-
mon bed, and were evidently waiting
for something. Our party had appro-
priated a corner so as to be neigh-
borly, if not sympathetic, and we were
waiting.

174 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAII.

'It is fourteen hours sail from Hono-
lulu to the island of Maui, and the
channel which divides Oahu from
Molokai is the gist of the trip.

As we entered the notorious sea-
way our boat seemed to be imbued
with a proper degree of frenzy, and
behaved like a spirited maniac. The
contortions of the waves were agoniz-
ing. The wind whistled, the cordage
shrieked, and the prostrate forms
moaned in chorus. The something
waited for had arrived. I looked out
upon the nasty sea, and it looked like
a huge bowl of ipecac.

One young gentleman of our party,
who had boasted that he had often
braved the convulsions of the English
Channel with immunity, sprang in hot
haste to the taffrail ; we tried to smile,

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

but it was a ghastly smile ; it was no
laughing matter, and no matter if one
laughed.

At last the sleepless night waned,

and the morning dawned. The stew-
ard appeared, balancing with care a
jug of steaming coffee. The ladies of
our party sat on end with grateful
hearts ; the cups were handed, the
coffee served, when lo, a malicious

176 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

wave interfered ; there was a rattle of
broken china, and we were literally
left in ruins. When we gathered up
the remains we concluded that we did
not care for coffee; and as for rolls,
the kind served up by the ship were
not to our taste.

About daylight we sighted the Is-
land of Maui, which presented a bold
and precipitous shore line. It seemed
to be a vast, treeless mountain, rising
abruptly from the sea ; clad, however,
in a robe of the softest green. We
could see little hamlets here and
there, ivith their church spires point-
ing heavenward, and occasionally the
huge chimneys of the sugar mills.

This island is noted for its sugar pro-
duction, and it exports annually many
thousands of tons.

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. i?7

We, that is what there was left of
us, disembarked shortly after at the
port of Kahalui.

The mountain of Haleakala, House
of the Sun, rose majestically before us.
It is the largest extinct volcano in the
world, its terminal crater being nine-
teen miles in circumference, its summit
rising more than ten thousand feet
above the level of the sea. This huge
volcanic upheaval, with its spurs, slopes,
and clusters of small craters, forms the
entire portion of what is known as
East Maui, while West Maui is a
picturesque group of the Eeka Moun-
tains. These are united by a desert
strip of land, making an island about
forty-eight miles long and thirty broad
From Kahalui we proceeded in a
diminutive steam car, which seemed to

178 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

be waiting for us, along the ocean side
to Wailuku, a place containing about
one thousand inhabitants, and located
at the entrance of the lao Valley.
There being no inn in the place, we
were driven to a boarding-house. The
good landlady looked at us in dismay.
There had not been such an avalanche
in years ; she had barely room for five
additional persons, and our party con-
sisted of seven. By dint of some
squeezing, however, we were finally
sandwiched into place, and made fairly
comfortable; at all events it was an
ark of refuge which had a firm foun-
dation, and was not buffeted about by
wind and wave.

From the veranda in front I caught
a fine view of the Eeka Mountains, and
from my window in the rear I could see

ON'E SUMMER AV HAWAII. 179

the green slopes of Haleakala, and the
wicked, restless ocean. We missed
the tropical foliage of Honolulu, but a
mountain stream went dashing through
the grounds on its way to the sea, and
sang us its restful song.

CHAPTER XIX.

PICNIC TO IAO VALLEY GRAND SCEN-
ERY SAD MISHAP.

THE day after our arrival we visited
the lao Valley. It was a horseback
climb of five miles. We had be-
spoken our horses at the " Bismarck
Stable," a small stable with a limited
number of horses, but with a 'grand
name. The portrait of the premier of
three emperors hung creaking, by one
hinge, in front.

We, that is the ladies, donned the
regulation costume of wide flannel
skirt, loose blouse, high boots, cap and
gloves, and walked with our escorts to

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. I Si

the stable, where, beneath the hanging-
Bismarck, we mounted our horses.
Two guides accompanied us with
hampers of provisions, so that our
party consisted of nine persons of
both sexes and each astride.

The sensation was decidedly man-
nish, and somewhat disconcerted we
ambled out of the town, feeling that
even the dogs and the chickens were
smiling at us.

As we ascended, a grand view of
the valley gradually unfolded. The
scenery is not unlike that of the
Yosemite Valley. The mountains on
either side are huge, conical-shaped
masses of rock thrown up by volcanic
action. Rent in twain primarily by.
some titanic force, the water by de-
grees has worn and widened the rift.

SUMMER IN , HAWAII.

The years have softened all the scene,
The winds have sown the grasses,
The sun and rain have clothed with green
The naked slopes and passes.

The turbulent Wailuku River comes
tumbling and foaming over the huge
bowlders, and winds in and out amid
the taro-patches, the sugar plantations,
and the banana groves. The grass-
grown uplands at the mouth of the
valley stretch themselves to the base
of the precipitous mountains, and
form a striking pastoral picture, where
herds of grazing cattle feed. To the
left and above us we could see a long
line of aqueduct which conducts the
water to the plantations below for
irrigating purposes. We continued to
mount upward until our roadway be-
came only a bridle path ; by this time

our timidity had disappeared, and,
filled with assurance, we had become
heroic. In the wake of our guides we
tucked ourselves upon the top of our
saddles and forded the raging stream.
We skirted along beneath overhang-
ing cliffs, and entered a wooded dell,
devoid of undergrowth, where the
trunks of giant trees supported a roof
of foliage. In these vast cathedral
isles no song of bird or voice of living
thing was heard. The only sound
was the soughing of the wind, like
far-off organ notes, amid the topmost
branches.

Emerging from this, the vast walls

on either side seemed to close in till

only a strip of sky was seen between

the peaks. The valley became a

'winding ribbon of park, with the river

1 84 ONE SUMMER IN HA WATT.

flashing and dashing and roaring
through it. Against the skyline bas-
tions and towers and turrets flashed
in the sunlight and grew dark in the
shadow.

We filed on between walls, masked
behind draperies of fresh and living
green, and kept moist by trickling riv-
ulets which forced themselves through
sunless chasms.

The path would sometimes thread a
dusky grove of giant trees, and then
open out into an amphitheater, begirt
with massive walls, over which the
snow-white torrents would madly leap.

By midday we came to a halt in the
shadow of the "Needle/' a monolith,
which pierced the clouds a thousand
feet above our heads. Grand, solemn,
and distinct, it stood out like an em-

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 185

erald shaft, clothed from base to apex
with a mantle of green, and crowned
with a luminous halo of cloud.

Here we found a leaf-lined nest,
latticed with leaves and carpeted with
grass, in which to spread our feast ;
and first we posed impressively, amid
the rocks, to give our Kodak artist
an opportunity to take our pictures.

We grew jovial and loquacious ; and
finally the feminine trio, assisted by
the guides, betook themselves to the
preparation of lunch; while the mascu-
line quartet, undoubtedly in the inter-
est of science, strayed off to inspect
more fully this wonderful geological
tragedy.

A half-hour elapsed, the luncheon
was spread and waiting, and our stal-
warts did not appear. At last a drip-

1 86 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

ping, shivering, dilapidated individual
slid down an adjacent rock, and, stand-
ing demurely before us, explained how
these grown-up and grey-haired boys,
tempted by the something beyond
which lures so many, had divested
themselves of their clothing, and at-
tempted to wade the stream, with a
deck-load of clothing on their heads.
The result was a shipwreck.

" And are you the sole survivor? " I
said, with horror in my eyes.

"Oh, no," he replied; "the others
are unharmed, and they will be here
shortly/'

And sure enough, back they came in
a hilarious mood, cracking jokes at
their unfortunate companion. As they
seated themselves at the improvised
table, the girl of the party remarked,

OWE SUMMER IN If A WATT. 187

with becoming severity, " Each of you
children deserve to receive a manual
rebuke, and to be sent supperless to
bed."

The river is named Wailuku, which
means Bloody Water, and while the
bearded children smoked their post-
prandial cigars, the guide told us why
it is thus called.

It seems that Kamehameha the First
asked the hand of Keopuolaui, the
daughter of Kalaui, chief of Maui, in
marriage, and was refused. He came
to woo with an army at his back, aided
by John Young, who had taught him
the use of firearms ; the contest was
fierce, and even the stream was choked
with the bodies of the slain and dis-
colored with their blood. In this cruel
way Kamehameha won his bride, and

1 38 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII,

the name of the river is the record of
the fact.

Upon our return, as the walls of the
valley widened, we could see the rolling
billows of the Pacific, the white line of
surf along the shore, the intervening
fields and pastures, and over and above
all the grand dome of the dead vol-
cano.

CHAPTER XX.

START FOR THE EXTINCT VOLCANO OF

HALEAKALA A VISIT TO THE SUGAR

PLANTATION OF MR. SPRECKLES AN

INVITATION TO LUNCH NIGHT ON

THE SLOPE OF HALEAKALA.

As we sat upon the veranda on the
evening after our trip, our commander-
in-chief, giving his mustache a ferocious
twist, announced that on the morrow
our quartermaster would lay in his
supplies and provide transportation ;
that we would deploy our forces, first,
at the plantation of the Hawaiian
Sugar Company, and then advance, by

easy stages, to the base of Haleakala,
189

190 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAII.

where we would be the guests of the
Lady of the Manor, and the morning
after we would make our grand assault
on the summit.

Rested and refreshed, we awoke to
find the sun flushing a cloudless hori-
zon, and that all was propitious. Our
horses had been sent forward and we
betook ourselves to the ambulances
provided, and were driven to the lit-
tle seaport of Kahalui, passing on our
way the Government Hospital.

Kahalui, despite its sleepy and di-
lapidated aspect, is the focus of an
extensive commerce. It is a port of
entry, whence seagoing vessels take
cargoes of raw sugar to San Francisco,
and where supplies are distributed
throughout the- island.

Leaving this sun-stricken cove, we

ONE SUMMER 7A r HAWAII.

drove along a well-kept roadway, be*
tween fields of growing sugar cane, to
the town of Sprecklesville. Here the
gigantic mills of the Hawaiian Sugar
Company are located. The streets
are macadamized, planted with trees,
and flanked with pleasant cottage
homes for the workmen. There is a
church, a park, a library, a clubhouse,
a billiard room, and a hall for amuse-
ments ; in fact, every essential for the
comfort and pleasure of this little com-
munity.

This erstwhile desert was reclaimed
by a vast system of irrigation. The
water, which heretofore ran to waste in
the- sea, was caught and stored in five
enormous reservoirs in the mountains.
Fifty miles of canals and aqueducts
were constructed. In accomplishing

192 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

this work, great engineering difficulties
were overcome. Thirty gulches were
flumed, and twenty-eight tunnels were
cut through the solid rock.

The company own forty thousand
acres in one tract ; upon this land the
water flows to irrigate and fertilize, and
exudes from- the ripened cane a river
of sweetness.

It is indeed a saccharine principality,
and the proprietor is justly termed a
" Sugar King."

Seventy miles of railway have been
constructed through the fields, with col-
lateral and temporary tracks, so that
the cane is thus conveyed to the mills,
and the sugar to the place of shipment.

By the politeness of the superin-
tendent we were shown through this
huge factory, which is capable of turn-

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 193

ing out one hundred tons of sugar per
day. This gigantic enterprise is the
conception of one self-made man, and
it is only a tithe of what he has accom-
plished. Success has been the result
of his energy and foresight, and two
distinctions have been conferred upon
him ; his name has been given to the
town which his enterprise has builded,
and his Hawaiian Majesty has created
him a Knight Commander of the Order
of Kalakaua.

Leaving the plantation of the Ha-
waiian Commercial Company, we
passed the Paia plantation, and ar-
rived shortly after at Makawao. Here
we halted to give our quartermaster an
opportunity to purchase supplies.

While actively engaged in doing
nothing^ we were pleasantly surprised

194 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

to receive an open-air call, followed by
an invitation to lunch. Nothing could
have been more opportune, and we
readily accepted the invitation, and
followed our hosts to their home.

They proved to be two young bach-
elors, who were keeping house in a
pleasant cottage near by. The one
was a Harvard man, who had drifted
out to this semi-tropical Eden in search
of health, and was engaged as a teacher
at the East Maui Seminary, and the
other was his boon companion and
friend.

In their longing for companionship,
they had espied and captured us, and
we were not unwilling captives. As
one of them remarked, they had been
bottled up for months, until the isola-
tion had begotten a longing for

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 195

human flesh, and they were ready
to eat us.

It was delicious to hear them effer-
vesce. They shot off their mental
pyrotechnics, and prepared with their
own hands " the tiffin," and when we
came to say good-by, and to thank
them for their hospitality, one of them
remarked, " Our thanks are due to you,
for I really believe, if you had not
come to our relief, I should have per-
ished from internal combustion. 7 '

From thence we drove through a
pleasant upland country to the home
of the Lady of the Manor. There is
no place where tourists to the extinct
volcano can sleep, before making the
ascent, unless she opens her doors to
them, as she kindly did to us.

Upon arrival, we were assigned to a

196 ONJS SUMMER IN HA WAIT.

large cottage, shaded by tall eucalyptus
trees, and surrounded by grassy lawns.
We dined with the family of our hostess
and passed the after-dinner hours upon
the veranda.

At an elevation of two thousand
feet above the level of the sea, we
found the air delightfully tempered by
the altitude. There were np trees to
obstruct the splendid sweep of hill and
plain below. The grassy slopes of the
uplands presented a charming pastoral
scene, where grazing herds were feed-
ing. The peaks of the Eeka Moun-
tains were tipped with fleecy clouds
aglow with the tints of the dying day.
In plain view,, the crested billows of
the ocean, rank on rank, were driving
shoreward to die upon the sands, and
red with reflected light, high above

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 197

all, loomed the terrible crest of Halea-
kala.

We watched until the stars came out,
and then sought our couches, for early
on the morrow we were to storm this
mighty fortress, and knock at the gate
of this " House of the Sun."

CHAPTER XXI.

THE ASCENT OF HALEAKALA GORGEOUS

SCENERY THE HEART OF THE CRA-
TER SILVERSWORD PLANT.

THE ominous hour had arrived, and
the summons came.

Disturbed by the weird voices of the
night, sleep had scarcely visited my
eyelids. I had heard the wind roaring
amid the tree-tops, and made sure that
the elements were not propitious ; but
when I stepped forth, all was serene ;
the stars were shining brightly, and the
moon, in her last quarter, was flooding
the world witH silver.

The Hawaiian legend runs, that the
198

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAII.

199

god Maui laid his nets on the crest of
Mount Haleakala, and having snared
the sun, as he arose, released him only
upon the promise that he would always
shed light and warmth upon the island.

Trusting that he would keep his
promise for this day at least, and show
us the innermost recesses of the vol-
cano's heart, we fortified ourselves by
breaking our fast, and having climbed
to the top of our saddles rode gayly
away, at first with a gradual ascent,
through the lanes of the pasture lands.

Our cavalcade did not present an im-
pressive appearance, but we were stout
of heart, if not strong of limb. One
untoward incident occurred, at the out-
set, to disturb our equanimity. Look-
ing to the front, we dimly saw a huge
beast swaying to and fro across the

200 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

roadway. "A bull," said the guide,
and rode forward to intercept him ; but
evading our advance guard, he charged
upon us with a seeming fury, which
proved to be only fear, and dashed
past, evidently rejoiced to escape.
Our consternation vanished ; we were
brave once more; the Don Quixote of
the party claimed the victory, and
Sancho Panza acquiesced.

As the new-born daylight flushed the
eastern skies, the marvelous cosmorama
came out distinctly. The mighty lava
dome rose bare and naked before us,
its dark head lifted among the fading
stars of dawn. We had but to turn in
our saddles to take in the vast extent
of mountain, ocean, and valley.

Onward and upward we threaded
our difficult way amid piles of broken

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 20 1

lava. Vegetation had almost vanished.
There were tufts of grass here and
there, while an occasional dwarfed and
stunted tree, or a frond of coarser fern,
had fought for and obtained a footing
in the clefts of the rock.

On the higher slopes we found some
ohilo berries, formerly considered sa-
cred by the natives,, and made use of
in their worship of Pele, the goddess of
fire.

Midway in our ascent we came upon
some caves in the volcanic rock, where
a party of tourists had evidently passed
an uncomfortable night. There was a
smoldering fire, and some hungry-
looking horses tethered near by.

From thence we toiled upward a
thousand feet to the mile, the crest
seeming to recede as we advanced,

202 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAI2.

until our patience was well nigh
exhausted.

At last the ramparts of the fortress
were reached, and we dismounted to
scale it on foot. We dragged our-
selves to the top, and I crept on my
hands and knees to the rim of the
crater, and peered with awe into the
awful gulf two thousand feet below.

This gigantic caldron, ten miles in
length, and five miles in width, was
lighted by the morning sun, so that
every part of its center could be dis-
tinctly seen.

In the mid-crater, at intervals here
and there, were several small cones,
apparently twenty or thirty feet, but
in reality hundreds of feet in height.
These were evidently the last effort
of volcanic activity. The exteriors of

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIT. 203

these infant volcanoes were fiercely
red, while their throats were lined" with
black cinders.

To the north and east could be seen
the Koolau and Kaupo gaps, through
which rivers of molten lava had flowed
to the sea.

In what primeval age this mighty
convulsion occurred tradition does not
disclose. When Captain Cook dis-
covered the island the crater presented
the same appearance that it does to*-
day. Time has not touched it with
its tender hand. The centuries have
come and gone, and it remains in its
fearful magnificence unchanged. All
living forms shun it, and death and
desolation reign. There is no sound
save the moan of the wind ; no
greenness mantles, and no shadow

04 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAlI.

protects it from the glare of the
sun.

I bethought me of the time when
this huge caldron was red with insuf-
ferable light ; when its hundred foun-
tains were spouting their liquid fire
into the air, and its rivers of molten
lava were flowing to the sea.

From where I stood I could see the
dark blue billows of the ocean beating
upon the white beach line ten thou-
sand feet below.

To the eastward were the pointed
peaks of Eeka, and at their feet the
strip of land, like a narrow causeway,
which moors the Mauis to each other.

Molokai, Lauai, and Kahoolawe
were plainly visible, as if floating in
the sea at our feet I could see the
miles on miles of undulating hills, the

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 205

. . . ___ ,

splendid sweep of pasture land and
plantation, draped
In dappled robes of gold and green and dun.

To the westward banks of clouds,
like a billowy sea of silver, dashed
with rosy tints, were piled on high,
through which the snow-crowned
peaks of Hawaii pierced and glinted
in the sun.

In silence we turned from this
ruined temple of the fire-goddess Pele,
and began our descent.

I should perhaps make mention of a
plant curiosity called the silversword,
specimens of which we found growing
on the crater's rim. Its lortg pointed
leaves are white, and gleam like
frosted silver. They spring from a
common center and form a cluster of
metallic splendor,'

206

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

As a pastime, I thought to walk as
far as the caves, where we proposed to
have luncheon ; but the broken lava

interfered, and I mounted. I had
found the ascent wearisome, but the
descent was more so. I doubt if the
descent into Avernus would be easy, if
one were hanging on to the crupper of

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 207

a saddle ; albeit some rapid persons
are said to go to his Satanic Majesty
on horseback.

Arrived at the caves, we found our
guide preparing coffee, and making
ready our repast. Some of the gentle-
men whose camp we had invaded on
our upward trip had meanwhile re-
turned ; two of their number, however,
were missing. They were much con-
cerned lest the absent ones had at-
tempted the perilous descent into the
crater and had succumbed to fatigue
and thirst, or had lost their way. Their
guide was despatched, with food and
water, to the rescue, but up to the hour
of our departure they had not returned.

Slightly refreshed, we resumed our
descent. Down, down, down, with our
horses' tails in the air, and our verte-

208 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAII.

brae on the strain to keep up the equi-
librium, we slid and stumbled.

The Manor House, sheltered by its
trees, could be seen in the far distance,
and it seemed as if we should, never
reach it ; but we did, and literally drop-
ping from the horse, I sat upon the
ground, unable to stand. Resting thus
for a few moments, I managed to reach
the cottage, where I threw myself upon
a bed, and for two hours slept the sleep
of exhaustion.

CHAPTER XXII.

OUR STAY AT WAILUKU START FOR THE

ISLAND OF HAWAII.

As a sequence to our visit to the
" House of the Sun/' I may mention
that at 6 p. M. of the same day,
" merely for diversion and exercise," as
one of the gentlemen remarked, our
maimed muscles and dislocated joints
were packed into wagons and driven to
Wailuku, fifteen miles distant.

At this sedate little town we re-
mained for one week, ostensibly waiting
for the steamer which was to convey
us to Hawaii, but in reality cultivating

new cuticle and recruiting jaded sinews.
209

210 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

Our temporary domicile was com-
fortable, our food well cooked, and our
celestial servitor a cheerful, garrulous
person, who interlarded his service with
pertinent, not impertinent, remarks.
He said, one day, when I refused the
taro which he passed, "What, no takee
taro, no likee taro ? All ite, him belly
good all satnee."

The only luxury, a luxury indeed,
when you long for it in vain, which
we particularly missed was ice. This
frozen comfort is manufactured only in
Honolulu, and wastes quickly in this
tropical air.

The works of the Hawaiian Fruit
and Taro Company are located at Wai-
luku. This company is engaged in
drying tropical fruits and in manufac-
turing taro flour.

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

211

The mills of the Wailuku Sugar
Company are also located here, and

give employment to numbers of China-
men.

As elsewhere upon the islands, the
Chinese have separate quarters. They
work in the factories, cultivate the rice,
taro, and sugar cane, carry on laundries,
and are employed as household servants,

212 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

Near the village is the ruin of an
ancient heiau, or Hawaiian temple. In
some places the whole foundation of
its massive walls can be seen. They
seem to have been constructed of un-
hewn stone without mortar, and were
at least ten feet thick at the base.

The great area must have been at
least 100 by, 300 feet, within which was
erected the great altar of sacrifice.

The weather was not as warm as at
Honolulu, and there were not as many
of those household pests mosquitoes
which torment one at night ; so that,
take it all in all, our stay was agree-
able.

We drove across the narrow neck of
sand which unites the two Mauis, late
at night, to make connection with the
steamer which was to convey us to

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 213

Hilo, the chief town of Hawaii, and
from where the excursions are usu-
ally made to the greatest active vol-
cano in the world, Kilauea. The road
is smooth and level and we enjoyed the
midnight ride after our week of rest.

The Kinau was on time, and we
were rowed to the ship in small boats
which had been sent for us.

The sea was calm and the deep blue
sky of the tropical night was ablaze
with brilliants, and even the diamond
points of the galaxy could be plainly
discerned.

We mounted the gangway, and picked
our way among the prostrate forms,
literally packed in oil. On being
ushered into our staterooms we were
more than surprised, for we had heard
such tales of woe from returning tour-

214 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

ists, that we were prepared for any dis-
comfort, even to another night such as
we had passed on the Likiliki ; and
when I found myself in a large, well-
ventilated room, lighted by electricity,
I heaved a sigh of relief, and laid down
with a prayer of thanks.

We stopped for several hours, in the
morning, at Mahukona, to discharge
freight, touching at Kawaihae and
Laupahoehoe later in the day, and"
arrived at Hilo, our destination, at
midnight.

As our ship sailed along the leeward
side of Hawaii during the morning
hours the scenery seemed monotonous.
The land sloped gradually from the dis-
tant mountains to the sea, and seemed
to be simply a stretch of greensward
denuded of trees. Here and there rose

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 215

the tall chimneys of the sugar mills,
around which lustered small hamlets.

As we rounded the island to the
windward side, there was a visible
change. The shore was bold and pic-
turesque and between the ocean and the
mountains there were fields of sugar
cane, where white cottages nestled, and
ever and anon a church spire could be
seen pointing heavenward, a veritable
proof of the power and influence of
Christianity and civilization. There
were pastoral scenes of grazing cattle,
and over the water there came the
sound of evening * bells calling to
prayer.

It was indeed an arcadian picture of
sweet repose.

I watched the beautiful panorama
until the night shut out the view.

2l6 OXE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

There were frowning precipices, rush-
ing waterfalls, and sleeping villages,
with the distant mountains for a back-
ground. At one point I counted
fifteen cascades gleaming like threads
of silver amid the fronds of verdant
ferns, and leaping o.ver the cliffs to the
sea; and high above all loomed the
peaks of Mauna Kea, half hidden by
the clouds, through which its snow-
capped cones pierced, and glistened
in the evening sun. The cliffs were
sometimes draped with mists, and then
rainbows were born which flushed the
sky and land.

The going down of the sun was the
crowning glory of the scene. Full-
orbed, in gold and purple pomp, it
sank to rest ; while in the cloud wrack
could be traced the outlines of new

ONE SUMMER ZY HA IV AIL 217

worlds and the Images of men and
animals, all reflected and floating in
the jasper sea beneath.

Our first glimpse of Hilo was from
the deck of the Kinau. It seemed to
be sleeping in a wealth of foliage, its
curving shore-line fringed with cocoa
palms. The headland which helps to
form its harbor is crowned with these
stately types of tropical life; it is
divided from the mainland by a little
stream, over which has been thrown a
rustic bridge. This island is .the pic-
nic ground of the people, where they
are wont to celebrate their feast days
and honor their guests.

We disembarked in small boats and
walked up the main street to a little
inn newly opened to the public, and
the first and only one in Hilo.

218 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

Hitherto tourists . have been enter-
tained by the residents of the place.

The town is built on a gentle slope
overlooking the harbor. The streets
are flanked with the tropical trees for
which this island is famous. Great
clumps of bamboo bend their willowy
sjtalks in the breeze ; the solemn palms
reach out their fans and lift their
swords on high; the "ponciana regia"
and the " golden shower " blaze with
bloom, and fill the air with odor;
every other bough seems to bear fruit
in great perfection, stimulated, per-
chance, by the proximity of internal
fires.

Mine host of the inn proved to be a
Portuguese, who had taken to himself
a pretty native wife. There was an air
of cleanliness about the place which

ONE SUMMER IN* HA WAIL 219

promised comfort and good fare, and
two'bright and tidy children, the pride
of their parents, filled it with the
atmosphere of home.

We passed the day in driving about,
in searching in the shops for curiosi-
ties, and in preparation for our trip
to the volcano.

The native population is rapidly
decreasing, and the picturesque grass
houses, formerly so abundant, are now
rare. In our drive up the heights
we saw a number, albeit the frame
houses, embowered in vines, have well
nigh supplanted the original dwelling-
places.

The Wailuku River runs between
the two great volcanoes of Mauna
Kea and Mauna Loa, and its waters,
passing over beds of heated basalt,

220 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

have formed a Gothic archway,
through which it flows into a basin
of lava.

We crossed the bridge which spans
the river, from whence the view was
fine. Looking up between high walls,
clad with verdure, the river comes

dashing down, and falls in a cascade

just where the walls divide to give it
access to the sea. At the foot of the
falls are huge rocks which rise above
the surface of the river.

We noticed numbers of native men
and women on these rocks seeking for
a kind of fish which secretes itself in
the crevices. From thence to the sea,
the low banks are covered with
beautiful plants; Rivulets of pure
water run through several of the
streets, and are diverted at nearly

SUMMER IA T II Air AIL 221

all the houses for bathing and other
purposes.

With the close of the day our prep-
arations for the morrow's trip were
fully completed.

CHAPTER XXIII.

ASCENT OF MAUNA LOA THE FOREST

OF HILO THE FATAL SIGNBOARD

THE VOLCANO HOUSE.

THE morning smiled after a night of
showers ; and our party, eleven in
number, climbed into a colossal carry-
all, with four horses attached, and were
driven over the volcano road, en route
to the show place of Hawaii.

This road, fifteen miles of which are
finished, passes across the lava beds,
and is being constructed by the gov-
ernment at great cost ; when the re-
maining fifteen miles shall be finished,
it will lighten the burden of the trip to
this wonder spot.

O+VJE SUMMER AV HAWAII. 223

The morning air was fresh and
sweet, and the view enchanting, as
we drove up from the village. The
raindrops glistened like jewels on bud
and blossom, and the waxen leaves
were burnished ; exuberant vegetation
and brilliant plant-life reveled in the
sunshine.

Our spirits caught the infection, and
good-humor prevailed. The guide be-
came a butt, and questions, pertinent
and impertinent, humorous and quizzi-
cal, were fired at him ; to all of which
he answered gravely.

A mile or more to the right could be
seen the congealed torrent of the lava
river which had so nearly overwhelmed
the little town in 1881.

We passed taro patches, and mullet
ponds, and native houses, and ere long

224 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

came to the confines of a dense prime-
val forest.

This belt of woodland girdles the
island, and averages seven miles in
width. The roadway has been cut
through this mass of foliage and these
mighty trees. Passing from the glare
of the open country, one seems to enter
a vast covered hall, roofed and in-
closed. The massive columns rise on
either hand, bespangled with flowers,
and trimmed with living green.

These unwonted tree-forms were a
source of constant wonder to mp. The
tall pohala sends out its long pointed
leaves in cone shaped clusters, in the
center of which its yellow flowers are
seen ; these in turn beget a fruit or
seed which is not unlike the pineapple
in shape. The branches droop and

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIT. 225

wind about the tree like huge boa-
constrictors, each one holding in its
mouth, as it were, a seed germ ; thus
enveloping the entire tree with an
armor, embossed with fruit and flower.

The ohia, or mountain apple, is
another wonder of this Hawaiian
wood. Its boughs devote themselves
to leaves, while its trunk bears the
fruit Attached by delicate twigs to
the bark, its red and yellow apples
seem like parasites ; they are fair to
look upon, but insipid to the taste ;
and could hardly have been the apples
of Eden or Hesperides.

I saw, for the first time, the screw
palm ; so called because its long,
pointed leaves wind spirally about *he
stem.

impenetrable network of green

226 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

interlaced the giant shafts. Ferns
luxuriated in the moist shade ; they
crept over the fallen trunks, and hid
with their delicate tracery all deformity ;
they pushed their way into the crevices
and found a foothold everywhere ; they
climbed the trees, and struggled with
the vines for supremacy ; they even, as-
pired to be trees, and spread their
fronds on high.

Moist-footed mosses clung to every
vacant space, and creeping vines, and
crawling tendrils, wound in and out ;
they leaped the lofty boughs, and hung
in long festoons between us and the
light. It was the ceaseless, soundless
strife of the jungle, where death en-
riches and fattens the survivor. Each
plant, and vine, and bough was be-
gemmed with bud and blossom, and

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 227

the humid air was redolent with
odor.

For miles we drove between these
walls of living green -without sight or
sound of animal life, and then emerged
into the open plain, which had been
conquered and covered by dwarf tree
ferns. Each spray was a tipped and
tinted plume, which flashed in the sun-
light and fluttered in the breeze.

After this we passed coffee planta-
tions and taro patches, and came at
last, through an ever varying phase of
scenery, to the end of our fifteen-mile
drive.

Though scarcely aware of it, we had
been gradually ascending the slope of
Mauna Loa, upon whose flank was the
great pit toward which our course was
directed. The dome of the mountain

228 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

towered above the clouds, which were
massed at its base, and when our vehi-
cle came to a halt, the rain was falling
in torrents.

Horses for the bridle-path were
standing under the tree awaiting our
arrival. There was neither house nor
shelter of any kind to be seen, so we
prepared to mount from the steps of
the carriage. We donned our rain
coats, and unfurled our broad-brimmed
straw hats, and expanded ourselves in-
to the saddles astride. " Funny, isn't
it ? " said a young lady at my side ; and
it was funny, but we could not laugh, it
was too serious, and too damp.

The gentlemen of the party were
equally interesting ; they might readily
have been mistaken for the fag-end of
Buffalo Bill's troupe.

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 229

An Englishman, his wife, son and
daughter, had joined us for the trip,
but the undertaking seemed so formida-

ble to the wife and daughter that they
declined to proceed farther.

The order to march was given, and
we fell into line, one guide in advance,
and one in the rear. At the outset, we
were to descend a steep and rocky de-

230 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAII.

clivity, which the rain had not im-
proved. The horses at first demurred
at this, but were finally convinced that
it would save trouble to proceed, and
so, by dint of much persuasion, we
reached the base of the hill ; here it
was discovered that the Englishman
did not feel particularly interested in
volcanoes, and had deserted the ranks,
leaving his son to represent the family.

I found that my experience on the
slopes of Haleakala had accustomed
me to the motion of the horse, and had
taught me to balance myself while
passing over the rough places.

We clambered along a narrow path-
way, across the lava current of some
former age. Hundreds of square miles
of Hawaii are covered with this gray
coating. It lies in huge coils, or con-

ONE SUMMER ftf HA IV AH. 231

volutions, like a congealed mael-
strom.

I noticed the fern, that vanguard of
vegetation, had here and there crept
into the crevices, and was endeavoring
to cover the scarred face of nature.

Never for once did the rain cease,
and when we halted for luncheon, there
was no dry spot where we could dis-
mount and eat; so we sat upon our
horses, and munched the sandwiches
and hard boiled eggs under the thatched
roof of our hats. Someone attempted
an irrelevant jest, but he was rebuked
with a look, and given to understand
that eating was the business of the hour.

The formalities finished, we hoisted
reins, and went on and up, the pathway
becoming rougher, as the ascent be-
came more pronounced. We entered

23- ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

a glen which the molten lava had par-
tially spared, and there the waving
plumes of the tree fern formed an arch-
ing canopy over our heads. I felt for
the moment a thrill of admiration ; but
my fund of adjectives had been ex-
hausted in the morning hours, and I
dared not venture even upon an excla-
mation point, for fear it would provoke
a smile, and so I wisely relapsed into
silent contemplation.

For hours I had made sure that I
was being slowly dissolved, but now
the rain had ceased, and the sun came
fiercely forth, and I was certain that I
was being baked. Every part of me
which was not asleep developed an
ache, and I found myself growing ir-
reverent ; if I had known precisely how
I should liked to have said something.

QMS SUMMER I.V HA IVAIL 233

The afternoon began to wane, and
some heartless somebody suggested
that, by urging our horses on the level
stretches, we might reach the Volcano
House before daylight disappeared;
for if our cavalcade should be caught
in a fog on the mountain-side, after
dark, all sorts of grim results might
happen.

My steed was unresponsive to kicks
and thumps, and so the kodak artist
came to my assistance, and reasoned
with him from behind ; he responded
with his heels, and the argument came
near dislocating my neck ; I interposed
an objection, and said that I was willing
to die, but that I preferred to do it
decently ; the artist replied that he was
there to stay, and that he would con-
quer that horse if it took all summer.

234 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

The guide had several times con-
soled us, by saying that the haven of
rest was near at hand, and I had braced
myself to finish in good form, when,
lo ! we came upon a signboard in-
scribed, " Seven miles to the Volcano
House." This was the last straw which
broke the tourists' back ; I was ready
to succumb ; but the artist was inexor-
able, he continued the argument, and
we went forward.

From this time "on I took no note of
place or time, but suffered in silence,
and when, in front of the Volcano
House, I saw the beaming, kindly face
of our host, who came forward to assist
me from my horse, I could almost have
put my arms about his neck and cried
for joy.

When placed in an upright position,

ONE SUMMER IN" HA WAIL 235

1^ found that my feet were useless.
They must have been dead for hours ;
but with assistance I managed to reach
a room, and threw myself upon a bed
in utter exhaustion.

Being so far from the base of sup-
plies, the house was necessarily a prim-
itive structure, and scantily furnished.
One feature, however, by reason of the
altitude, added greatly to the good
cheer ; and that was an open fireplace
and a blazing wood fire.

The house was packed with people
ambitious to see a live volcano, and
our party was divided up, and th'e frac-
tions sandwiched into vacant spaces
here and there. I was assigned a single
bed in a room occupied by two other
ladies, .who, when we arrived, were at
the volcano.

'236 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

For obvious reasons I dined in beji,
and remained there after dinner; not
to sleep, however, for the walls were
thin, the guests loquacious, and the
laughter loud.

When silence did reign it was
broken shortly after by the return
of the* party from the spectacular
show.

My room was invaded by the two
ladies who were to share it with me.
They each glared at me in turn as
they entered, to discover, perchance, if
I was harmless. The one was tall and
angular and' old, and was addressed
as" Auntie " by the other, who was
young and round and rosy. "Auntie"
moaned and groaned and ejaculated,
"Oh! why did I come," but was

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

237

finally disrobed and rubbed and
anointed and tucked away. The other
followed suit, and then the real busi-
ness of the night began.

CHAPTER XXIV,

VISIT TO THE SULPHUR BEDS AND
BATH THE VISITORS' BOOK THE
LAVA BEDS THE VOLCANO RETURN
TO VOLCANO HOUSE.

HAPPY was I to awake the next
morning refreshed. The stir of prep-
aration was going on about me ; even
" Auntie " was chipper, and when, an
hour later, I saw her ride away from
the hotel in good spirits I was pre-
pared to say, with Sancho Panza,
" Blessings on him who invented
sleep."

Breakfast over, we walked to an
extinct crater about one mile distant

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 239

from the inn. The cup of this crater
is covered with a white vegetable
mold which resembles plush.

Upon our return we turned aside to
see the sulphur banks and bath. This
deposit is condensed from fumes which
issue from fissures in the' earth, and in
conjunction with alum and other salts
is found in great quantities. There
are also strata of red, yellow, and blue
ochres. The bath-house is placed
above a steam jet which issues di-
rect from Pluto's domain. So angry
seemed the powers below that we
walked about with awe lest the earth
should open and swallow us up.

My previous ideas of volcanoes had
been formed from the symmetrical
cones and well-behaved craters of
Vesuvius and ^Etna ; but Kilauae was

24 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

evidently a new outlet which had had
no time to shape its mouthpiece. It
had burst from the flank of Mauna
Loa like a huge water spout in the
midst of a billowy sea.

But I must not anticipate. It is not
wise to criticise the piece till you have
seen the play.

Night is the proper time to view
fireworks, and we were to leave for the
spectacle at 4 p. M.

I wasted the intervening hours by
lounging about the house. I turned
to the "visitors' book" and searched
its olla podrida for something wise or
witty. The nearest approach to it
was a single- sentence in an uncertain
hand ; it might have been wise, and,
under the stress of circumstances, it
might even have ranked as wit, but

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 241

alas ! it was not original. It read,
without quotation marks, "There is no
fool like an old fool/ 7 ' The sad truth
was perhaps forced from unwilling
lips ; and the writer may have deemed
it common property like the Lord's
Prayer or the multiplication table.

Another, written in a bold hand,
was to the point and certainly original.
It read, "This is a grand place for
wearing out shoes/'

Caesar announced his victory over
Pharnaces in three words, " Veni, vidi,
vici," Behind a barricade of dead
bodies at Waterloo, Cambronne said,
"The guard dies, but never sur-
renders/' Many a dead man has lived
in an epigram ; and this tourist may
go down to posterity, even if he goes
barefooted,

24 2 ONE SUMMER IN HA WA'II.

At 4 p. M. we followed the guides
down the zigzag trail to the lava
bed below.

I had taken the precaution to secure
the services of one guide for myself,
knowing full well the value of a sure
foot and strong arm when needed.

We were 'each shod with tennis-
shoes, cloaked with a warm wrap, and-
carried a long stout stick called a
" crater staff," while the guides were
ladened with canteens of water, bask-
ets of luncheon, lanterns, etc.

The road was precipitous, and finally
dropped "abruptly down a sandy slope,
and we found ourselves standing on a
shining floor of black lava.

Horses were stationed at the base
of the hill, to be made use of upon our
return.

ONE SUMMER AV HAWAII. 243

Looking upward from this point,
one perceives that the Volcano House
is at least five hundred feet above the
lava floor.

The black expanse before me looked
as if the heaving billows of some
stormy sea had been suddenly stilled,
and turned to stone. As we wended
our way across this floor of adamant,
we saw countless fissures, yellow with
the stains of sulphurous vapors.
Great coils of obsidian lay like pet-
rified cordage about us. Cyclopean
monsters, with distorted limbs,
sprawled across our pathway. Chasms
yawned here and there, which dis-
closed profound depths and vast sub-
teranean caverns.

In and out, up and down, we were
piloted by the guides, with the column

244 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIT.

of crater smoke ever in sight as a bea-
con ; till, after two hours' constant
tramp, we came to the verge of a
crater, which, a few years before,
had been filled with molten lava.
The force and volume of the vol-
canic matter, however, had steadily
decreased, until only a small pool
remains.

From this point our difficulties ' in-
creased tenfold, for the lava bed has
been so broken up by the mighty con-
vulsions that it is well-nigh impassable.
Happily we were shod with corrugated
rubber soles, and clad with short, close-
fitting skirts. At times the fumes of
sulphur were so dense that we could
only breathe by covering our faces
with our handkerchiefs.

Toiling on, we stood at last upon

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIT. 245

the brink of the great crater. It was
still broad daylight.

246 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIT.

I had heard from afar what I
thought to be the wash of waves
upon a rock-bound shore, and I ex-
pected to see a vast expanse of boiling,
turbulent, incandescent fluid.

My first look was a disappointment.
Instead of a sea, I saw a pool, of not
more than two hundred feet in length,
and one hundred in breadth ; its sur-
face was a dull leaden cotor, while from
two vent-holes, one at each end, foun-
tains of liquid lava leaped into the
air. This molten rock cooled at once,
and fell upon the crust with the sound
of falling pebbles.

I said to the guide, " Is this all ?"

" Wait," he replied ; " it is constantly
changing, and before you leave you
will surely be satisfied."

I sat down and ate of the food which

OA T E SUMMER IX HAWAII. 247

the guides had spread for us, depressed
by a feeling of sore disappointment.
The encomiums, the warnings, and the
platitudes inscribed in the visitors'
book came forcibly back to me, and I
fear me much, that I sympathized the
most with the man who had written,
There is no fool like an 61d fool.

We were resting, as it were, upon the
lip of the caldron, scarcely fifteen feet
above the surface of the lake; the
other sides were much higher, and the
rim was crowned with slender, pointed
spurs.

By the time our luncheon was over,
night had fairly settled down, and Pele
began to stir her boiling pot with
demoniacal fury. ^ Loud hissings, throb-
bings, and roarings were heard, accom-
panied by undulations of the crust

248 ONE BUMMER nv

which indicated great agitation below.
Cracks revealed the fiery furnace be-
neath, while from under the cliffs, and
out of sight, came sounds of the beat-
ing of waves upon an unseen shore.

Ere long the crust began to break,
and blocks of lava would drop into the
vortex ; then jets of liquid fire would
shoot into the air, and light the night
with radiance. The apex of the molten
column seemed to disintegrate, and fall
in golden showers upon the leaden
surface below.

As one mass after another went
plunging into the whirlpool, fountain
after fountain would leap upward. The
rocky walls of the lake would catch the
momentary gilding of the spray. The
cliffs would flash with intermittent
glory, and in the alternating glare and

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 249

gloom fantastic shapes took form.
Phantom beasts were crouched, and
spectral birds ^vere perched upon pro-
jecting points. Ghastly grinning skulls
peered down from the rim of the cal-
dron, and all were draped with " Pele's
hair." This substance is a brittle floss
spun from the molten lava by the wind.
From time immemorial, Kilauea was
believed by the natives to -be the home
of the most potent of all their deities,
the goddess Pele. Here she with her
attendant demons reveled in flames
and bathed in the fiery billows. She
ordered the times and t seasons of the
eruptions and earthquakes. Animals
and human beings were often cast into
the crater to appease her wrath ; and
even to this day superstition reigns
supreme in the hearts of the people.

250 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

Even a few years since, Princess
Likiliki, sister of King Kalakaua, hear-
ing that the fires of the crater had
ceased, a phenomenon which usually
precedes an overflow, and believing that
by sacrificing her own life she could
save the lives of thousands, refused all
nourishment until she died.

We, too, sought to conciliate Pele, by
throwing to her the remnants of our
luncheon : and hoped that she would
graciously show to us her best trans-
formation scene.

We watched the various changes for
three hours, and when the leaden crust
had covered the surface of the lake, as
with a blanket of stone, we concluded
that the display was over, and were
about to turn our faces homeward,
when lo ! the heart of the crater began

SUMMER IN HA WAIL 251

to throb, the mantle of stone was rent
into fragments, the fountains played
with redoubled force, and the caldron
became a seething, boiling lake of fire.

We clambered up the rocks to a
place of greater safety, and watched the
heaving turmoil of flame until our eyes
were well-nigh blinded by the glare, and
our faces blistered by the heat. Red
flames burst from beneath the crags,
and dazzling jets shot into the air with-
out cessation. A faint blue vapor was
wafted upward, as if from the altar of
the reigning goddess. The whole
amphitheater was aglow, and the tops
of the distant cliffs were on fire.

" Surely/' I said, with a voice of awe,
"it is the House of Everlasting Fire/'

The bloom was fading from its con-
gealed. surface as we turned away and

CHAPTER XXV.

THE DESCENT HILO AGAIN " LOMI

LOMI."

THE sunlight looked inquiringly into
my room in the early morning, and
half awake, that is the upper half, I
wondered if .the other half, which had
borne the brunt of yesterday's burden,
would respond when called upon. To
my delight I found that it was in
marching order ; and once again I in-
voked " blessings on the man who in-
vented sleep."

The atmosphere was clear, the black
lava field gleamed in the sunshine, and
the crater sent up its cloud of incense

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 255

in the distance, as we made ready for
departure.

I was introduced to a strange horse,
and was to adapt myself to a strange
saddle ; and they, both looked gaunt
and bony.

Each horse that I had ridden in
these mountain trips had excited my
commiseration ; and it seemed a sin to
mount this thin, colorless creature.
He had been branded in his colthood,
apparently for the purpose of giving
him pain, for he was not worth steal-
ing, and he could never have run
away.

Our host manifested a becoming re-
gret, and speeded us with a punctuated
"aloha" as we took our departure.

The horse gave a groan which went
to my heart, and staggered into line.

256 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

The kodak man took his wonted
place directly in the rear of me. I
ventured to remark that " I should
consider any interference on his part
as irrelevant," but he maintained an
ominous silence, and we moved on.

For miles we retraced our steps
without incident ; when all at once the
clouds obscured the light of the sun,
and the rain commenced to fall.

I take kindly to a bath in the or-
dinary way, but a shower bath on
horseback is not conducive to com-
fort, and I felt resentful. In any cir-
cumstances I am neither a daring
nor a graceful rider ; but in a crater
uniform, soaked with water, and sitting
astride, the picture becomes pathetic.

As I leaned over the neck of my
horse to rest, I heard a ripple of laugh-

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 257

ter -from behind. I said, " It is very
well for you to laugh, for you think
you see something to laugh at ; but as
for me, the situation is serious, and
the subject is sore."

My sorry steed and my sorrier self
were on the best of terms, and he bore
me bravely to the end ; if he does not
get his reward, he deserves to ; and I
chronicle his fidelity and patience.

Transferred to the coach, we were
driven through the silent tropical
wood, so like those mythical forests
where all life is fettered by enchant-
ment, and on and out into the open
rolling country, over the broad, smooth
highway, until the beautiful bay of
Hilo burst upon our view.

We could hear the measured beat
of ocean's pulse, and saw the

258 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

gleaming with the glory of the setting
sun. The cottages nestled beneath
their clambering vines, and- the tall
cocoa-palms kept solemn watch and
ward beside the surf-fringed shore.

With the traditional flourish, our
coachman landed us at the steps of
the little inn. The English family, who
had made the excursion by proxy, were
seated in cool comfort on the veranda.
We were bedraggled and begrimed,
but we felt and acted like heroes ; and
once having bathed, and exchanged our
uniforms for befitting garments, we
could look the world in the face, and
vaunt our triumphs.

Thinking that a lomi lomi treatment
might prevent all possible ill effects
from the exposure and stress of the trip,
I besought the landlady to procure a*

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

2 59

lomi lomi woman for me. The natives
have practiced massage from time im-

memorial, and are experts in its man-
ipulations,,

It proved too late -to procure a pro-
fessional, and the landlady kindly prof-
fered to give me a treatment herself.
I could not have fallen into gentler
hands. There was strength in her fin-
ger tips, and healing in her presence,

260 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIT.

and she imparted both to me. She
"lomi lomied" the crater aches from
my limbs and the kodak gibes from my
brain, and sent me sweetly to sleep.

Hilo is a typical Hawaiian town,
where the main object in life seems to
be to do nothing, and to do it without
effort. The donkeys and dogs, even*
accept the situation with benign com-
posure.

The walls of its horizon are hung
with pictures of sea and shore, and
mountain and moor, and river and
wood. It' is the gateway to the great-
est wonder of the. world.

Its climate is delicious, and Flora and
Pomona have dropped into its lap the
choicest gifts of flower and fruit.

I have felt the magic spell of its en-
chantment, and the charm is on me still

CHAPTER XXVI.

THE " KINAU " HOMEWARD BOUND

LAPAHOEHOE KOHALA PLANTATION

THE DISEASE OF LEPROSY.

AT midday out past the Isle of Palms
we sailed. Behind us the spent waves
were fawning upon the beach ; the
river was rushing and roaring through
the rocky gorge ; the lap of interme-
diate land was garnished with the vivid
green of cane field and garden ; while
far beyond the wooded mountains were
leaning against the sky.

As we skirted along the coast, the
cliffs rose more abruptly from the sea,

262 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

and tiny rivulets, like threads of molten
silver, veined the verdant slopes.

After two hours of steaming, we
touched at the hamlet of Lapahoehoe,
where a church, a sugar mill, and some
cottages have been built upon the
beach.

Here the cliffs rise to the height of
three hundred feet, and the streams
become roaring torrents which crumble
into spray and drop into the surf.

A tramway, operated by stationary
engines, has been fastened against the
face of the cliff, up and down which the
cars crawl like colossal flies.

Our ship lay rolling in the trough of
the sea, on the lea of the long reef
which juts into the ocean.

The transhipment of freight and pas-
sengers to and from the small boats

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 263

alongside was a trying and ludicrous
ordeal. Men and women were seized
and tossed to and fro like bales of
merchandise.

It is hardly consistent with our ideas,
of propriety to see a human being
spread out like a crab, and flying
through the air.

The native sailors are stalwart men,
and muscled like athletes. Stripped to
the waist, they look like bronze statues ;
and as they play their practical jokes
upon each other they display their
laughing lustrous eyes and pearly teeth.

Once again under way, I could hear
moans and ominoiJS ^sounds from the
staterooms. Happily, I myself was ex-
empt from seasickness, and could sit
upon deck -and enjoy the bold and
diversified scenery.

264 ONE SUMMER IN II A WAIT.

At the Kohala plantation the method
of landing passengers is certainly
unique. A basket is let down by a
rope from the high bluff which over-
hangs the sea ; from the small boats
the. nervous victims are then bundled
into it, and are drawn aloft by an invisi-
ble donkey. It seems fraught with
danger, although I was' told that no
accident had ever occurred.

As we approached Kowaihae we saw
wreaths of smoke rising from the adja-
cent plantations, and were told that they
were being burnt over preparatory to
replanting.

Three or four years suffices to ex-
haust the cane ; the old stalks are then
burned, the ground thoroughly plowed,
and planted anew.

The first crop yields from six to

OME SUMMER IJV HAWAII. 265

eight tons of sugar per acre, the second
from four to five, and the third perhaps
three.

At this point we had a good view of
one of the ancient Hawaiian sacrificial
temples (or heiau), the last one erected
by the natives.

As night approached, the lofty moun-
tain of Mauna Kea came into full view;
white clouds had gathered about its
snow-crowned crest, and fell in fleecy
folds upon its stalwart shoulders.

A rainbow, born of the mist, encircled
its hoary head like a crown of glory.

The sunset was an infinite world of
radiance, and the after-glow long and
brilliant, an unusual circumstance in
tropical climes, where night is wont to
follow the setting of the sun with
scarcely a suggestion of twilight.

266 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

As the last glowing cloud disappeared,
the moon came forth and cast a silver
belt across the waste of waters. Hawaii
grew dim and distant ; and I knew I
had looked my last upon its lovely
shores.

Two Franciscan sisters were fellow-
passengers with me on the Kinau, and
my heart went out to them, as I remem-
bered how a little band of this sister-
hood had immolated themselves upon
the sacrificial altar by devoting their
lives to the care of the lepers at
Molokai.

Leprosy is the one dark blot upon
Hawaiian life. It is regarded as in-
fectious ; but as the natives manifest
no fear of contagion, it has been
deemed necessary to isolate those per-
sons who have contracted the disease.

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 267

In 1863 the Hawaiian Parliament
passed an act to prevent the spread
of leprosy, and founded a leper
settlement on the Island of Molokai,
where seven hundred lepers, with
their attendants, are supported by the
government.

The location is said to be healthful
and pleasant, and everything is done
for the care and comfort of these
doomed victims.

Complete isolation is maintained,
and all intercourse with the outside
world is prohibited. Husband and
wife, parent and child, are separated
by stern necessity.

The law is no respecter of- persons;
the high and the low, the rich and the
poor, are alike subjected to its decree.

In this lazar home, without hope,

268 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

and dead to the world, these helpless
sufferers await the last summons. It
is to be hoped that science in its re-
search will find some antidote to this
fell disease.

CHAPTER XXVII.

HONOLULU ONCE MQRE THE LUAU

THE FISH MARKET PORTRAITS OF

KltfGS AND QUEENS OF HAWAII.

IT was early morning, and Aurora
was just driving her chariot over the
mountain peaks as we rounded Dia-
mond Head and caught sight of Hono-
lulu, still sleeping in delicious repose.
Two weeks of rough life had not di-
minished its attractions. The glories
of the living crater had not robbed
the dead one of its grandeur ; the azure
sky and rosy air still had the same in-
effable charm ; its crescent shores were

still fringed with the same solemn
269

270 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

palms. And the verdant leaves and
vivid flowers hovered over its homes
with the same tender grace.

The jovial captain responded heart-
ily to our alohas, and broke into a con-

tagious laugh when someone thanked
him for having brought us safely to
our haven.

We found the hotel scarcely awake,
but " Birdie" was on the steps,. his face
beaming with the promise of prospect-
ive tips ; and he ushered me into my

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 271

room with an air which made me feel
that the world must have been stand-
ing still during my absence ; but alas,
I found that I was only a minute
quantity in creation; -the world had
been gay; the world had been glad;
even his Majesty had given a ball to
the officers of a French man-of-war,
which came, and conquered, and sailed
away. On my table were invitations
to fetes and feasts which I had missed.

The native feast, luau, is certainly
unique. It has a fashion and flavor
which belong to primitive conditions.

Long before the days of the Round
Table .our rude forefathers must have
feasted in much the same way.
Beneath a thatched roof, open to the
day, the ground is carpeted with
leaves, upon which the guests recline.

272 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

Fingers servers forks, and teeth take
the place of knives.

From bowls and calabashes, conven-
iently placed, the guests help them-
selves until th^ir hunger is appeased.

The menu comprises poi, boiled and
baked taro, cooked and raw fish, live
shrimps, and roasted pig. In the can-
nibal days there were other dainty
dishes not to be mentioned now. The
feast might end with a jorum of awa,
bjrewed upon the spot.

The modified, decidedly modified,
luau is not an uncommon mode of
entertainment by foreign residents.

Speaking of the fish of the feast,
reminds me that the fish market of
Honolulu is well worth a visit. On
Saturday afternoons the natives are
in full force, and dressed in

o

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 273

their best attire. The women in their
gay kolokus, adorned with flower leis ;
the men in clean linen and starched
jackets. They throng the streets lead-
ing to the market, and saunter through
the building, buying food for s the Sun-
day meal.

The sea pays tribute to the land, and
is the unsown field which' the people
glean. The abundance and variety
which they garner is wonderful ; and
all is food which comes to their net.
In the stalls of this market are found
turtles and eels, mollusks and crusta-
ceans, and fish which would make glad
the heart of the ichthyologist ; some in
silver armor, and some tinted with
colors which must have been caught
from the coral caves.

I went one morning, by invitation, tp

274 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

see the portraits of the ancient kings
of Hawaii. Kamehameha the First is
represented as a doughty warrior, fierce
of look and firm of feature.

He has been grandiloquently styled
the " Napoleon of the Pacific," because
he was a bloody chief, who delighted
in conquest.

The artist has depicted him in a
white linen shirt and sleeveless scarlet
waistcoat. It was undoubtedly full
dress at the time ; and someone has
facetiously suggested that it must have
been presented to him by some sailor,
and that it pleased His Majesty to be
painted in that costume.

His career ended in 1819. The
second Kamehameha died in 1842.
The third reigned thirty years, and was
succeeded by a grandson of the con-

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 275

queror, who died in 1863. Kaleleona-
lani, generally known as Queen Emma,
visited England after his death ; and her
portrait, painted in London by a cele-
brated artist, hangs on the wall beside
that of her husband. It is a fine paint-
ing of a remarkably handsome woman.

With the death of Kamehameha the
Fifth the dynasty ended.

The steamer Australia arrived and
brought us our longed-for budget of
letters. Immediately thereafter there
was a consultation, and it was,decreed
that our party must take leave seven
days later for San Francisco.

The thought of leaving this dreamy,
motionless life startled me. I felt that
the soft, balmy air, and the glorious
sunshine, were almost necessary to my
existence,

276 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII,

To think that the pictures of sea and
mountain and shore would be only
memories soon. And then to say aloha
to the dear friends who had contributed
so much to my enjoyment was like
taking something from life which could
never be replaced.

When Hawaii is far behind me, I
know I shall visit it in dreams ; but alas,
I shall awake with an unsatisfied long-
ing in my heart !

CHAPTER XXVIII.

HAWAIIAN CHARACTER THE NATIVE

DANCES ONE MEMORABLE NIGHT. *

THERE is much to admire, and much
to commend, in the Hawaiian character.
The people are amiable, honest, and
generous, and have certainly shown
themselves susceptible of intellectual
and moral elevation.

In arithmetic, geometry, and music
they show special aptitude; and their
songs evince genuine poetic feeling.

Physically they are of good stature,
active, and well made. The descendants
of the chiefs are usually large men, and
exceed in height the average European.

27 8 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

They are expert in swimming, and
are good fishermen and horsemen.

The young women have rich olive
complexions, well developed forms,
black, glossy hair, and large, lustrous
eyes, and many of them may be consid-
ered beautiful.

I regret that I have not seen more
of their home life and had an opportu-
nity to witness their wonderful sea
sports.

The native dances, as described to
me by a lady friend, are certainly some-
what peculiar, and it is even said, that,
in barbaric days, young maidens were
wont to take part in these pastimes,
like Venus,

Veiled in phantom robes of spray.

In all ages, and among all peoples,
intense emotion has found expression

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAII. 279

in the rhythmical measure of the dance.
The emphasis and cadence of muscular
motion seems to give pleasure both to
the spectator and the dancer.

Whether hu-la hu-la is better or
worse than the can-can, I must leave it
to those who have seen both to decide.
We are wont to cloak our own iniqui-
ties, and to hold up our hands in holy
horror at the sins of others, forgetting
that " to the pure in heart all things are
pure/ 1

As the days of my stay waned I
became parsimonious of the flying hours;
I longed to live it all over again ; I
wanted to qatch and retain forever the
magical charm of the island world. I
could not remain indoors, but must
fain go forth into the sunshine and
drink in the enchantment. I walked, I

280 ONE SUMMER IN If A WAIT. .

drove, I spent all the day and half the
night in going here and there,

Since my return from the volcano the
weather had been upon its good behav-
ior. There was a faint suspicion of
cloud-rack about the distant peaks, but
otherwise the full face of heaven was
serene.

We stole away one memorable night
and went down to the haunt of the
sirens, that unwritten poem by the sea ;
halting for a brief space at the college
grounds, to see that which I had always
regarded as a rare sight, the night-
blooming cereus in flower. We found
not one, not ten, but a thousand which
had opened their waxen hearts to the
night. They looked like fretwork of
chiseled marble on the columnar stalks
of the cacti.

. ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 281

Leaving this rare flower show, we
drove on to Waikiki. From the lanai
of each villa came laughter and song
as we passed ; knots of native musicians
were strolling through the streets, and
singing to the accompaniment of taro-
patch and ukelele ; while the Royal
Band from afar flooded the air with
music.

On past the sentry palms, and over
the rustic bridge to where the waves
fell lovingly upon the sands, we went.

We entered Kapiolani Park, and
reached the hotel, which looks upon
the sea, under the shadow of Diamond
Head.

Other pleasure seekers were there
before us, tempted by the aerial
witchery of the night, and the harmony
of the waters.

282 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAII.

The swooning wind toyed with the
feathery plumes of the algeroba, and
the air was ladened with the perfume
of flowers.

Down by the beach young men and
maidens were bathing, and disporting
themselves like Tritons and nymphs
in the brine.

To thoroughly enjoy it all, one must
be a poet and not a philosopher, a
lover of beauty and not a disciple of
mammon.

WAIKIKI.

The cocoa with its crest of spears,

Stands sentry 'round the crescent shore.
The algeroba, bent with years,

Keeps watch beside the lanai door.
The cool winds fan the mango's cheek,

The mynah flits from tree to tree,
And zephyrs to the roses speak

Their sweetest words at Waikiki.

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 283

Like truant children of the deep

Escaped behind a coral wall,
The lisping wavelets laugh and leap,

Nor heed old ocean's stern recall.
All day they frolic on the sands,

Kiss pink-lipped shells in wanton glee,
Make windrows with their patting hands,

And singing, sleep at Waikiki.

O Waikiki ! O scene of peace !

O home of beauty and of dteams !
No haven in the Isles of Greece

Can chord the heart to sweeter themes.
For houries haunt the broad lanais,

While scented zephyrs cool the lea,
And, looking down from sunset skies,

The angels smile on Waikiki.

CHAPTER XXIX.

FAREWELL TO HAWAII.

WITH the vision of the night before
haufiting my brain, I determined to re-
turn some of the civilities shown me
by the residents of Honolulu, and in-
vite them to an entertainment in this
seaside paradise.

The Australia, which was to bear
me away, was to sail on Friday, so
Tuesday was selected for the fte, and
invitations were issued.

One hundred or more were accepted,
including that to His Majesty.

The evening was propitious ; the

house and grounds were lighted with

284

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 285

lanterns and colored lights. The
moon lent her Tail self to the illumina-

tions, and cast her silver train over the
rippling waves.

The native musicians were in good
tune and voice, and sang between the
waltzes their tender roundelays.

I transcribe a verse of one of the
songs selected and sung by them as
being appropriate to the occasion.

286 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

Ha-a-he-o ka-na i-no-pa
Ke-ni-hi ar-la-i-ka na-he-le
Eu-hai a-na-pa-ha i-ka-li-ko
Pu-a le-hu-a a-hi-hi o-u-ka.

CHORUS.

A~lo-ha oe a-lo-ha oe
E-ke-o-ha o-na-no-hoi-i-ka li po.

(Translated.}

O fond embrace, O fond embrace
Until we meet again.

I heartily rejoiced in this opportun-
ity to welcome the friends who had
been so kind to me ; and my, for the
time being, lanai was bright with glad
faces and gay gowns and flashing uni-
forms. We lingered 39 long that, the
moon left the stars to light us on our
homeward way. -

The two remaining days of my stay
were occupied in receiving and paying
visits, while luncheons, teas, and din-

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 287

ners filled up the intervening spaces,
so that Friday morning found me
scarcely prepared to embark; but by
dint of early rising I managed to make
ready.

I had been wreathed and decorated
with lets until I looked like an ani-
mated nosegay ; and thus, tangled with
flaunting flowers, I reached the ship,
barely in time.

As the Australia swung from her
moorings the wharf was packed with
people and the air was palpitating with
spoken and unspoken adieux.

The band struck up "Auld lang
syne," and the strain went direct to my
heart, for I felt that I was looking my
last upon these dear faces and delight-
ful scenes.

As we passed the flagship Charles-

288 ONE SUMMER L\ r II A WAIL

ton a salute was fired, and the music
of the ship's band was the last sound
wafted to us from Hawaii's loved
shores.

I leaned over the gunwale to watch
the receding picture, and to photo-
graph it forever upon my memory.

I speak only the unvarnished truth,
when I say that I felt then and now
that I was leaving the fragment of
a well-nigh perfect world ; an after-
Eden, where humanity can dwell with-
out the curse ; where life is a dream
and time goes by on silken wings.

Its unshorn gardens are bowers of
bud and bloom, of fruit and flower.
Its air is a wave of tropical balm, tem-
pered by the briny breath of ocean.
Its sunsets and its dawns are pictures
of delight. Its shore lines are ourves

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 289

of beauty, and it is lulled forever, by
the song of the sea. It has mountains
whose heads are hoar with the frost
of Arctic winters, and whose feet rest
amid the verdure of eternal summer.
It is a grand temple where the defor-
mity of art has not marred the per-
fection of nature.

Dear land, aloha, aloha

CHAPTER XXX.

POS 7 'SCI? 'IP TUM.

DEATH OF KING KALAKAUA SAD SCENES

AT HONOLULU QUEEN LILIUOKAU-

LANI.

SINCE the foregoing pages were
written, the heart of Hawaii has been
made sad by the death of King Kala-
kaua.

For a time His Majesty had been
somewhat indisposed, and it was
thought that a change might prove
beneficial.

Learning this fact, Admiral Brown
placed the U. S. S. Charleston at his
disposal, and in her he came to San
Francisco.

QUEEN LILIUOKAULANI,

ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII. 291

He had always been a favorite with
the people of California, and in former
visits, by his genial and unpretentious
manners, had made hosts of friends.
Upon his arrival both public and pri-
vate courtesies were extended to him.
One of the last entertainments
which he attended was for the benefit
of the poor children of San Francisco,
and, considering the state of His health,
it was regarded as a most unselfish act
on his part, and one which manifested
his kindness of heart.

The insidious disease of which he
was a victim seemed to develop rapidty
after his arrival, and he died in his
apartments at the Palace Hotel on the
2Oth day of January, 1891.

All that skill and kindness could
do was done for the dying monarch.

292 ONE SUMMER IN HAWAII.

The people of San Francisco were
filled with solicitude, and hoped against
hope to the last.

His remains were tenderly cared
for, and with becoming pomp and cer-
emony were borne to the U. S. S.
Charleston to be transmitted to his
beloved islands,

It is perhaps the misfortune of kings
that they can never be considered
from a purely personal standpoint ;
but Kalakaua was essentially a peo-
ple's sovereign, and the humblest na-
tive found no difficulty in getting his
ear, and he took a deep interest in the
affairs of his people, and listened pa-
tiently to their complaints. His last
conscious act was to direct his secre-
tary to send money to an unfortunate
dying Hawaiian woman.

ONE SUMMER 7>V HA WAIT. 293

He was descended from the ancient
kings of Hawaii, and was born at
Honolulu on the i6th day of Novem-
ber, 1836. He was elected King of
Hawaii on the I2th day of February,
1874, after which he made a tour of
the world.

He was a man of fine personal ap-
pearance, and of no mean attainments ;
he had infinite tact and a pleasing ad-
dress.

His people had bidden him adieu
with an ominous presentiment in their
hearts, and yet they eagerly awaited
his return and prepared to give him a
royal welcome. The streets of Hono-
lulu were made gay with flags and fes-
toons, and triumphal arches had been
erected in anticipation of his arrival.

When the Charleston rounded Dia-

294 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

morid Head with flags at half-mast, and
it was announced that she bore the
body of the dead king, one universal
wail of sorrow went up from the people,
and the royal household was stricken
with grief. The preparations for his
reception ceased and the triumphal
arches were draped with mourning.
The body was received at the steps of
the palace by the kahili bearers, and
carried to the throne room, where it
lay in state. The crown and scepter
were placed upon the casket, and it
was draped with the royal feather robe.

Kahilis were fixed at the head and
foot of the bier, and on either side
kahili bearers were stationed, who
waved these mournful emblems with
slow and measured motion.

Over the entrance to the grounds a

ONE SUMMER Iff HA WAII. 295

black arch was erected' surmounted by
a crown, and at the steps of the palace
torches were lighted, and kept burning
day and night.

It is the custom for the Hawaiians to
shave the right side of the head or

beard at the death of the king, and
many of the kahili bearers around
Kalakaua's bier had disfigured them-
selves in this fashion.

On the day set apart for the people
to view the remains, the entire native

296 ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL

population seemed to file through the
rooms weeping and wailing with an-
guish. The native women sang melcs,
and the men recited olis, in a sad and
plaintive key.

The body was deposited in the royal
mausoleum with great ceremony. Peo-
ple of all classes and nationalities united
in this tribute of respect to the dead
monarch.

The gentle ways of gentle men,
The prudent tact, the subtle ken,
The speech sincere, the open hand,
The heart that beat for race and land,
Far more than for thy heraldry,
For these, King, we honor thet !

The union of Kalakaua and Kapio-
lani was not blessed with children, and
in April, 1877, the kings sister, Prin-
cess Lydia Kamakeha Liliuokaulani,

o

ONE SUMMER IN HA WAIL 297

was by him declared heir apparent to
the throne.

Queen Liliuokaulani was born in
Honolulu, September 2, 1838, and is a
descendant of the noblest of Hawaiian
chiefs. Her education was more care-
fully .looked after than even that of her
brother Kalakaua. Her accomplish-
ments are linguistic and musical, and
in the arrangement and composition of
music she has achieved considerable
fame outside her kingdom. She mar-
ried, in 1862, John O. Dominis, one of
her schoolmates, a young man born in
Massachusetts, of English parents, but
educated in Honolulu.

Governor Dominis has been a per-
petual officeholder, and a more good-
natured, genial governor never lived.
The country house of the queen and

298 . 'ONE SUMMER IN JfA WA1I.

her consort 'is a -charming bungalow
at Waimea. 'All friends who drift that
way, when 'the- governor and his wife
are in the occupancy, are sure of a
most delightful welcome. Dinner is
the only formal meal. That means full
evening dress and a spice of formality.
You rise when you please ; before
you is the limpid water of the blue
Pacific for a bath ; you breakfast in the
broad lanai upon pond mullet baked in
Ti leaves. You lounge in the ham-
mock and listen to the sough of the
waves on the long coral reefs, and enjoy
the perfect laziness of tropical repose,
until the hour for anqther dip, before
dressing for dinner.

Her reign, it is predicted, will be a
happy one for her people, a? she be-
lieves in Hawaii for the Hawaiians.