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ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

JVORKS Br THE SAME AUTHOR

FROM THE ARCTIC OCEAN TO THE
YELLOW SEA

THE LAND OF GOLD

FROM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE

DAME FASHION

MY BOHEMIAN DAYS IN PARIS

MY BOHEMIAN DAYS IN LONDON

SIX MONTHS ON THE ITALIAN FRONT

1 'w/-

3S*-"

strtsi ^Tsfc^

the author (x) with his jailor at revigny
(a police photograph)

ON THE PATH OF

ADVENTURE

BY JULIUS M. PRICE

WAR-ARTIST CORRESPONDENT OF THE
''ILLUSTRATED LOXDOX A'£//\S"

ILLUSTRATED WITH JOTTINGS FROM
THE AUTHOR'S SKETCH BOOK AND

A MAP

LONDON. JOHN LANE, THE
BODLEY HEAD, VIGO ST., W. i.
NEW YORK. JOHN LANE
COMPANY: ^ ^ ^ MCMXIX

WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIUITED, LONDON AND BBCCLES, ENGLAND

PREFACE

I DESIRE to state right here that this humble Hterary
effort does not in any way claim to be an addition
to the formidable array of books on the technical
side of the war. It is, on the contrary, merely a
narrative compiled from the notes in my diary of a
period during the early days of the war when I was
" out " to set all the material I could — without, as
will be seen, concerning myself overmuch with the
regulations laid down at that time by the authorities
"for the observance of war-correspondents."

As my wanderings were entirely within the zone
of operations, it is obvious that the incidents I have
described were always more or less connected with
the theatre of the war — but they were happenings
rather behind the scenes than on the actual battle-
front.

It will be gathered I went through these early
days in a very unconventional manner, so that from

vi PREFACE

the very start I was asking for trouble, and soon
got it.

I was constantly being reminded of the tale of
the tramji somewhere out in the Far West, who
climbed up on to a passenger train going in the
direction he was making for ; he was discovered by
the conductor and as he had no money to pay his
passage, he was unceremoniously chucked off. But
he was evidently a persevering fellow, this tramp —
one who was not easily to be denied. The train was
proceeding leisurely, so he caught it up and climbed
back — onty to be re-discovered a little later and again
pitched off. Yet again he incontinently managed to
get into one of the cars, to the enraged amazement
of the conductor, when he found him.

As he was being jettisoned for about the fourth
time some distance from where he had first boarded
the train, some one asked him where he was trying
to get to. " Slocan City, if the seat of my pants
holds out," was his terse reply.

Well ! If I could only keep going I felt sure I
should be bound to see something, and I didn't
intend to be discouraged b}^ any little rebuffs, and
I certainly did manage to get an insight of conditions
in the war zone.

If I did not see all I had hoped to see,
I undoubtedly had a far more interesting time than
would have been the case had I been content to
remain in Paris awaiting official orders; for it was
not until six months after the war had started that

PREFACE vii

the existence of war-correspondents was officially
admitted, and a small party was taken for a few
days on a sort of " personally conducted torn*."

In conclusion, I desire to express my humble
apologies for any annoyance my escapades may have
caused the French Military Authorities.

JULIUS M. PRICE.

Savage Club, London.
August, 1919.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

PAaE

Charing Cross Station, Aug. 2nd, 1914— "A Berlin, a Berlin"
— My Editor's joke — Strange difficulty getting change — Fred
Villiers and Seppings Wright— My brother-in-law, Charles de
Eossi — Motley crowd in the train — Arrival Dover— A five-
pound note for three pounds ten ! — Physique of Frenchmen
to-day — Arrival Calais — Difficulty getting into Paris — Spy
fever — Lord Kitchener's special train — En route for Paris —
Englishmen " on probation "

CHAPTER II

Irksome restraint on war correspondents — The Press Bureau — I
determine to make a dash for the war zone — Difficulty leaving
Paris — A "brain wave" — The Commissaire of Police — My
sauf conduit — Identification notes — My passport — Photographs
on passports — Trains under military control — I leave for
Langres — A strange crowd— A little " incident " before start-
ing— An offensive passenger — A successful " dressing " — The
eternal topic 12

CHAPTER III

Arrival Troyes — Warlike scenes in station — Last chance of getting
supper — The sergeant on duty at exit — "Some" sandwich —
The sergeant again — A little contretemps — The courteous
general — From Troyes to Langres — I oversleep myself —
Marooned — We arc chefs ! — Arrival Langres — State of isola-
tion— Absence of war news 25

CONTENTS

CHAPTER IV

PAGE

In Langres— Gloomy forebodings — Deadly monotony — Heart-
rending incidents — Thrills of excitement — The postal service
— Spy fever — Sketching in the street — A trivial " incident " —
Arrival of two fugitives from St. Die — Harrowing tale — I
obtain permit to go to St. Die — My multifarious baggage —
Early hour of starting — The train of refugees — The first firing
I heard in the war — The French Red Cross Society — Pathetic
little scene 36

CHAPTER V

En route for St. Die — Troop trains — Camaraderie in the French
Army — A little anecdote in point — A rough sketch of a peram-
bulator— I am arrested — The Military Commandant— Amazing
evidence — A narrow escape — We reach Epinal — A worried
official — The line to St. Die blocked by the Germans — In
Epinal for the night — No profiteering — My companion to
return to Langres— I decide to attempt to go on to St. Die
alone — The train to Bruyeres — My lucky star in the ascendant
— The Inspecteur de la Surett— First batch of German
prisoners — War " trophies " 46

CHAPTER VI

From Epinal to Bruyeres — Arrival Bruyeres — Wonderful spectacle
military activity — Sad procession of refugees — Scenes in the
streets — The mayor of Bruyeres — Finding a lodging — " Memo-
rizing " sketches — Unwelcome attention — The Commandant
d'Etape's office — Into the lion's mouth — The headquarters of
the 21st Corps d'Armee— The surly major — I am put under
arrest — The Anglo-French interpreter — ]Vry dejeuner at Bru-
yeres under observation — A long and tiring afternoon — The
decision — In the custody of gendarmes — Unpleasant experience 59

CHAPTER VII

Bruyeres— Still in custody — A feeble attempt at hilarity— Am
marched across country to the railway — A debonair cavalry-
man— The sergeant loses his way — Arrival at station — -Am
handed over to military escort — En route — The men's supper
in the train — The kind-heartedness of youth— We reach Epinal

CONTENTS xi

PAQB

— The friendly coiumissaire — My parole — I am set free — I
return to Langres — Events shaping rapidly — Evacuation of
Langres ordered —" Bouches inutiles" — My sanf conduit to
Troyes — In Troyes— The commissaire of police — I decide to
make for I\railly-le-Camp

CHAPTER VIII

From Troyes to Mailly-le-Camp— Disadvantage of travelling first
class in the war zone — An uncomfortable journey — I arrive
Mailly — The deserted station— I find a guide— Ruins on all
sides — The only auberge in the village — A truculent looking
crowd — My oratorical effort— A bienvenue—A well ventilated
bedroom — Awakened by gun-fire — Flies everywhere — Pro-
cession of refugee peasants — The Chief of Gendarmes — -J am
lent a bicycle — Off to the battlefields of the Mame — Harrowing
sights — The village of Sommesous— Bestial malignity of the
Hun — The dying Saxon officer — The "Territorials" a cheery
crew — Two good yarns 89

CHAPTER IX

Mailly to Lenharree— Skirting the battlefield— Grim reminders of
warfare — The villages of Haussimont and Vassimont — The
man from Lenharree — A grim spectacle by the roadside — In
the village of Death — A veritable vision of Hades — The two
old women — Across the battlefield — Dead hares— The bivouac
of the Prussian Guards — Life-like postures of the dead men —
" Souvenirs" for the picking up — The officer with the watch
bracelet — Horrors everywhere — Souvenir grabbers — The Mayor
of Lenharree— A gorgeous trophy 106

CHAPTER X

In Mailly — The two " mouchards " — Another prowl across the
battlefield — The Champagne Pouilleuse — Significant heaps of
uniforms— The Solitude— Recalling the Australian bush— Lost
on the battlefield — My territorial friends' encampment — I
accept invitation to stay night— The pot-au-feu- Twelve men
in tent —A wet night— Awakened by heavy gunfire— The bom-
bardment of Rheiuis— The blazing cathedral— A " gardening

xii CONTENTS

PAOK

job" — Tide of battle receding from Mailly— The original
scheme of German advance in this direction — The wonderful
stoicism of the French peasant women — With the fugitives
from the villages— A harrowing incident— The battalions
Sanitaires— I return to Troyes — I sketch my friend the com-
missaire— A saw/ cont^Mif to Eheims— I leave for Chalons . 116

CHAPTER XI

Arrive Chalons— The old working man— Pathetic little incident—
The hotel de la Haute Mere Dieu — An inexplicable incident
— A little contretemps of the usual sort — An unpremeditated
bluff on the gendarmes comes off— From Chalons to l^pernay —
The difficulty to find a room — Souvenirs of the Hun occupation
— A wine-bibbing incident — " Kultur "—Harvesting the grapes
within sight of the troops — The principal caf^ in Epernay —
Another "incident" — My friend of the train des Equipages —
The Commandant d'Armes — Am given a military laisser passer
— With the Transport Convoy — I make a theatrical change
in my appearance — The distributing depot— The waggon-load
of sacks — Into civilian attire again — Arrive Rheims — The
Brasserie in the Eue Chanzy 136

CHAPTER XII

In Eheims during the bombardment — Weeks of excitement— The
optimism brought about by a few peaceful hours — Short respite
from the shells — Impulse to bolt for cover— Demoralizing
effects of bursting shells in streets — A nerve-racking incident
— Explosive force of the " Jack Johnsons " — Euins everywhere
— The unexploded shell in front of post office — Aspect of
streets during a lull — Overwrought nerves — The terror of the
guns — Safety underground— The extraordinary scene in the
vaults of Pommery Greno — Danger in cellars of private houses
— Tragic discovery — A city of the dead after dark — The desire
for companionship when in peril— The drastic lighting regula-
tions—" Firework Signallers " — Hun espionage, a fine art-
Two spy incidents — Souvenirs of the Hun occupation — Arro-
gant proclamation — Living in state of siege — Curious scenes . 161

CHAPTER XIII

Rheims to Epernay — The steam tram to Dormans— Early start —
Taking advantage of lull— The railway accident at Bouleuse —

CONTENTS xiii

PAGE

A bad collision — Inexplicable impulse that saved my life — The
dead and injured — A romantic little adventure — A vision of the
Bois de Boulogne in days of peace — A pleasurable surprise
— " Like two tramps " — A jolly little lunch — Her departure
— Epemay afterwards — A disagreeable incident— Its un-
expectedly pleasant ending 179

CHAPTER XIV

Troyes to Vitry-le-Francois, Bar-le-Duc and Verdun — I return to
Troyes — The Commissaire genuinely pleased see me again —
Decide make attempt enter St. Mihiel salient — A sanf conduit
to Bar-le-Duc — A joke in the train — In Vitry-le-Francois —
Another irritating incident — The two commercial travellers —
A startling occurrence — Locked in my room — Curious sequel
— The Sous-Prefet de la Marne — Determine to risk continuing
ray journey — The amusing method of a journalistic confrere —
En route for Bar-le-Duc — The Hun bully catches a Tartar —
Bar-le-Duc — The genial Commissaire of Police — Am granted
a military pass to Clermont-en-Argonne — My big adventure
commences — The Petit-Meusien — " No one allowed to go to
Verdim " — Bauzee, the jimction for Verdun — I have a brilliant
idea — On to Verdun — The complaisant station-master — The
truculent sentry — A sergeant comes to my rescue — My cyclist
guide . . " 190

CIIAPTEB XV

Verdun— Impressions of town seen from distance — Get the official
vise to my sauf conduit — My guide ofTers to show me round —
Air of enthusiasm and confidence everywhere — Prosperity and
confidence within sound of the guns — A reconnoitring " Taube "
— Amusing incident — An unexpected repast — Verdun always
as a sealed book — A hive of military detectives — Perfidy at
instigation of German agents — A aad example — The dead
renegade — The fortifications of Verdun — Impossibility to get
near them — Living on edge of a volcano — My cyclist friend
takes me to a pension for lunch — The siege of Verdun in 1870
— A chat with a veteran — I decide not to risk remaining too
long — Take room for the night — The officer who spoke English
— Not perhaps a chance meeting — Away from Verdun before
daylight 209

xiv CONTENTS

CHAPTER XVI

PAGE

At Clermont-en-Argonne — A little unpleasantness with a big
gendarme — The quarters of the General of the 5th Corps
d'Armee — The Commandant of gendarmes — Inflexibility of
general ; I must leave at once — A sudden diversion — The duel
in the air — A measure initiated by the Germans — Exciting
moment — Am "conducted to rear of troops" — St. Men^hould —
Courteous gendarme officer — A friendly action — My custodian
— Lunch at the hotel — A little episode — Leave St. Menehould
— Arrive Eevigny — Decide break journey here and remain
night — Another little episode — An unexpected meeting in the
morning — A " Commissaire Special de Police" — Learn I am
his prisoner — Geniality of my jailor — The telephone message
— A snapshot — Arrival Bar-le-Duc — On parole — The decision
of the Conseil de Guerre at Verdun — Am to be taken back to
Paris under arrest 222

CHAPTER XVII

From Bar-le-Duc to Paris in custody — My new gaoler — His courtesy
with regard to my baggage — A cheery dejeuner — At the station
— The greatness thrust upon me — Farewell to the Commissaire
Special of Police — A little memento of my duress — En route
— Humorous incident — The lost revolver — Supper at Troyes —
My old friend the commissaire turns up — The fateful telegram
— I am described as a " German spy " — Friendship of the two
men towards me — I do my custodian a good turn — Arrival
Paris — "An Englishman will not break his word" — Taken to
the Embassy — Sir Henry Austin Lee — At the Invalides— On
parole for eight days — Major Brett the Provost Marshal — Free
once more 236

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING PAGE

The Author (x) with hi9 Gaoler at Eevigny (a Police rnoTO-
gbaph) Frontispiece

Map showing Area comprised in the Author's Narrative . 1

"Vers la Victoire" 12

How the War will be Won — a Sketch in a Paris Cafe . . 16

The Departure of Reservistes — outside tee Gare de l'Est,

Paris 20

More Cheerful Nkws— a Sketch in Langres .... 34

An Anxious Moment 36

" La Croix Eouge " 44

'• Pour la Patrie " 48

A Batch of Prisoners being brought in to Epinal ... 54

Waiting to Entrain 56

On the Road to St. Die 60

Refugees from St. Di6 * . . 62

A Proclamation of the General through the Town Crier —

Langres 84

A Gruesome Search — after the Battle of the Marne . . 100

A Grim Apparition 108

The Village of Death 110

«' All was Quiet " 124

Refugees — a Sketch at Mailly 126

M. LE Colonel 134

The Latest Communique— a Sketch in Epinal .... 140

Jottings in Epernay 150

xvi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

facing paok

In one of the Cellars of Pommbry Greno — at Rheims . . 168

In a Cellar in Rheims during the Bombardment . . . 170

A Flower in the Wilderness 176

Food for the Guns 182

En Route 184

A Wayside Jotting 192

A Scene of Ruin 202

At a Street Corner in Vbbdun 214

An Anti-Aircraft Gun in Action 224

A Soldier's Funeral 226

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

s -

IS ~

O :;

c ^

ON THE

PATH OF ADVENTURE

CHAPTER I

Cliarmg Cross Station, Aug. 2nd, 1911 — " A Berlin, a Berlin " — My Editor's
joke — Strange difficulty getting change — Fred Viiliers and Seppings
Wright — My brother-in-law, Charles de Rossi— Motley crowd in the
train — Arrival Dover — A five-pound note for three pounds ten ! —
Physique of Frenchmen to-day — Arrival Calais — Difficulty getting
into Paris — Spy fever — Lord Kitchener's special train — En route for
Paris — EngUshmen " on probation."

CHARING Cross station was packed to
suffocation that hot Sunday night of
August 2nd, 1914, at the departure of the
Paris train. The expected general mobiU-
zation of the French Army liad been ordered for the
following day, and all the reservistes living in England
were hurrying over to join their regiments.

The atmosphere was as if charged with Frencli
patriotism — on all sides one heard snatches of the
Marseillaise intermingled with vociferous cheering,
whilst now and again bands of young fellows elbowed
their way through the throng chanting in march
time the stirring battle cry " A Berlin — a Berlin."
1'he enthusiasm was infectious, and even the staid
station-policemen and the porters seemed to catch
it and looked as though they would have liked to
join ill.

2 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

The latest news was of the gravest character —
from all accounts troops were bemg rapidly dispatched
to the frontier and war appeared to have already
commenced.

I had only received my instructions from the
office the previous da}^ so had lost no time in getting
under way ; but it had been a bit of a rush, as
there were so many things wanting when I came to
overhaul my campaigning kit. The menace of
xA.rmageddon had sprung so unexpectedly into exist-
ence that there had been no reason for making
preparations for the contingency of a big war. Now
I only had a few hours to get anything I wanted, and
there are always various odds and ends, trivial in
themselves but all important when you are on the
road and find you have forgotten them.

I had to get off, however, without undue delay,
so recalled a little remark made to me on one occasion
by my Editor— I was leaving London at a moment's
notice for somewhere abroad, Petrograd I think it
Avas, St. Petersburg then — " When will you start ? "
he queried. " It's no use going unless you can get off
at once." It was not quite so pressing as all that, I
thought. I had in my mind a cosy little farewell
dinner with some pals in my favourite Soho restau-
rant, so I replied evasively, *' As soon as I possibly
can," and mentioning casually that I had several
indispensable purchases to make, such as shirts and
so fortli. " Don't they wear shirts in Russia ? "
snapped out my chief impatientlj^. I took the^

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 3

hint and decided to postpone the dinner rather than
my departure.

On this occasion it was very different ; whatever
shopping I might have desired to make was effectually
and definitely knocked on the head by the quite
extraordinary state of affairs that had arisen since
the war crisis had loomed up. There was a sudden
inexplicable difficulty in getting change after the
banks had closed on the Saturday. I was dumb-
founded to find it was the same everywhere. At the
club the head waiter positivety smiled when I, cleverly
as I thought, put down a fiver in pa3dng my lunch
bill.

" Can't manage it, sir. You'll have to pay another
time."

" But I'm going away and may not be back for
months," I insisted. " Well, it will have to hold
over till you come back," was the reply. Here was a
pretty predicament, so there was no help for it but
to hunt around and try everywhere even at the risk
of having to buy something I didn't want. But
every where was the same story, and I realized at last
the curious fact that in London that week-end with
plenty of banknotes in one's pocket and no small
change one was practically hard-up.

I must mention here that I was to act in a dual
capacity — as in addition to my usual credentials as
" war artist correspondent " of the Illustrated London
News, I had a roving commission for the London
Evening News.

4 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

Two of my colleagues, Fred Villiers and Seppings
Wright, were also proceeding to France for the
Illustrated^ and the last words of our chief had
been, " Don't get yourselves ' bunched up ' together ;
there will be plenty of room for you all." One had a
sort of feeling in consequence, that in order not to
risk running into each other it was better to settle
beforehand where we would each make for.

In the light of all that happened before war-
correspondents were really permitted to go into the
war zone, it makes one smile to remember the
number of arrangements we made as to our routes
which were never carried out.

Villiers said he had decided to get off that evening,
and left us at the office door with a cheery *' Good
luck to you." It was several months before we met
again. Wright and I settled to travel as far as Paris
together, on the understanding that once there neither
asked the other in what direction he proposed going.

I had quickly made up my mind as to what was
to be my itinerary, and decided it should be as much
off the main route as possible, so I felt pretty sure
that I should have it entirely to myself without fear
of running into the arms of my confreres of the
Press.

I must mention here that I have a sister who is
married to a French officer of artilleiy — Charles de
Kossi — and at the time he was stationed close to the
frontier, not far from Epinal ; provided, therefore, I
could get to him, there would, I felt, be a good chance

ON THE PATH OK ADVENTURE 5

of his being able to help me to get attaciicd to his
own division. In anv case, there were certain to be
plenty of subjects for my sketch-book and my pen,
and doubtless a few adventures to boot before I got
back to London again.

As the long train slowly pulled out of the station
to the accompaniment of deafening cheers from the
crowd on the platform and the hundreds of young
fellows hanging out of the carriage windows, the whole
scene struck one as almost unreal — it had come
about so swiftly that one had not vet had time to
realize its full significance.

A week ago there had not been a rumour of war,
and here we were on the eve of such a conflict as had
been long anticipated by all thinking people, though
all had constantly and perhaps selfishly hoped it w^ould
not come to pass in their time. Now the die was
cast, the pleasant times of peace w^ere gone and un-
known horrors were in store for the world.

Wright and I had managed to squeeze ourselves
into a first-class compartment, already so full that
one wondered how so many men and such piles
of luggage had been packed in and the door
closed.

It was indeed a strange crowd of all sorts and
conditions of young fellows, not the least curious
part of it being that it was quite unforeign in appear-
ance, most of them looking like Englishmen and even
talking French with an English accent. The expla-
nation of this I found was, that the majority of

6 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

them were born in England and had hved there all
their lives.

In fact, so Cockney were some of them that it
seemed a joke almost their being classed as French
reservistes, and they admitted it themselves. But
one and all were m the highest possible spirits at
the chance of gettmg even with Germany at last.
At Dover a boat from France had just arrived with a
big crowd of people hurrying back to England from
the Continent, and there was a long delay.

There w^as a great scene of excitement when it was
reahzed how strained was the monetary position and
the difficulty in getting change.

At one moment a man ran frantically about the
platform asking every one he met if they could change
him a five-pound note — of course without success.
At last he got desperate, said he hadn't a shilling in
his pocket to go on with, and actually offered to sell
the note for three pounds ten.

It was the chance of a lifetime, yet there were no
takers. Although my confidence in the stability of
England's credit being as safe as ever was unshaken,
I did not feel disposed to risk parting with any of
my scanty hoard of gold, even for so sound an
investment.

I recall that the porter who took our multifarious
baggage on board displayed quite unexpected good
feeling towards us — he positively refused to let us
pay him anything.

" 1 know^ how difficult it is to get change to-day,

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 7

gentlemen," he said, " so you'd better stick to what
you've got ; maybe you'll want it all later."

There were only a few civilians on the train, so
the boat w^as to all intents and purposes a French
troopship, and one now had an opportunity to form
an opinion of the class of men going over.

One could not fail to be impressed with their
general physique, which was much above the average ;
they were in fact a splendid crowd of young
fellows, as different as chalk is to cheese in comparison
with the old generation of under-sized Frenchmen.

One is tempted to wonder wdiat had brought
about this striking change, doubtless the modern
tendency to athletics in the shape of football and
boxing one notices to-day in France. Anyway, you
felt that if the French Army came up to this sample,
an eye-opener was in store for the Kaiser.

At Calais, where we arrived in the small hours of
the morning, there was a hitch. The Eeservistes
left us here, and we were informed there was no train
going on to Paris ; perhaps there would be one later
in the day, but it was very uncertain as the mobi-
lization had stopped the regular train sei*vice.

There was nothing for it, therefore, but to hunt
round for a room in the town — not an easy matter
at that hour, not yet daybreak. However, we
luckily found a small hotel open where they could
put us up.

In the morning warlike preparations were notice-
able on all sides, and the place presented a curiously

S ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

animated aspect. Horses were being brought in in
great numbers from tlie countryside and the best
of them requisitioned for the Army, whilst groups
of townsfolk were discussing the situation at every
corner.

Suddenly cries were heard, and we saw a crowd of
people running excitedly, whilst well on in front was
a dishevelled individual evidently trying to get
away. " A German spy — a German spy ! Stop
him, kill him ! " shouted the mob. But the fellow was
a fine sprinter and had a good start, so we soon lost
sight of him as he dodged down a side street with his
pursuers in full cry at his heels.

Whether they caught him or not we could not
find out, but this was only one of several similar
incidents that morning, for the people were in an
ugly mood and already had spy-fever badly.

In fact, I was made personally aware of this soon
after, when I took out my sketch-book to make a
jotting of something. " Put it away quickty before
3^ou are seen, or you will get into trouble," whispered
in English a gruff but friendly voice in my ear. I
looked round to see who had given me the well-
intentioned advice, but mv unknown friend had
already disappeared in the crowd.

I took the hint though, and did not take my
sketch-book out again. I didn't w^ant to start
the campaign by being arrested in Calais the
first day, and perhaps being shipped back forth-
with to Dover.

ON THE PAllI OF ADVENTUllE 0

We made our way to the lailway station on the
quay to find out if there was a chance of a train to
Paris.

Our friends the Beservistes from London were
tliere being rapidly transformed into French soldiers.
The procedure was simplicity itself. They were
lined up in one of the long corridors of the station
and one by one disappeared through an open door,
emerging a few minutes later by another door further
down, completely clad in brand-ne\^' uniform and
with their civilian clothes over their arm.

The effect reminded one of a conjuring trick, as
they appeared to be coming out in a continuous
stream as fast as they went in. Their buoyant
spirits had not in any way deserted them, and they
appeared to be even more keen in uniform than
in civies.

In the station, which was quite empty on our
arrival, a long train composed of first class carriages
only was now drawn up ; it was evidently waiting
to start at a moment's notice.

It then transpired that this was a special train
for Lord Kitchener, who was expected from England
on his way through to Egypt.

Here was our chance of getting on to Paris, as
there would be plenty of room unless he had a regi-
ment of staff and personal attendants with him.
But the station master could not give permission : it
would rest with Lord Kitchener to take us if he
pleased, and there would be no otlier train 111) after

10 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

the mobilization was finished, at least ten days
ahead, so we waited events.

Then an interesting incident occurred which
proved conclusively that hostilities had already
commenced. A big German barque was brought
into the harbour by a fussy little tug. A little thing
in itself but the first naval exploit of the war.

Shortly after this " event " the Dover boat
arrived, but without Lord Kitchener, who it appeared
had been recalled to London at the very last minute,
in order to take command at the War Office — in
fact, just as he was going on board.

Well, to cut short a long story, it was announced
that his special train would now be available for
passengers to Paris, and within a few minutes of this
being known people turned up from all parts and it
was crowded from end to end. Smug bourgeois
with unwieldy baggage rubbed shoulders with homely
peasants carrying their household belongings. It
was our first glimpse of war conditions, and enabled
one to realize how completely the life of the nation
was already transformed by the events of the last
few hours.

As may be imagined, there was only one topic of
conversation — the awful suddenness with which the
war had been sprung upon Europe. Of dejection
there was no sign. That the long-expected day of
reckoning with Germany had at last arrived after
forty years of waiting seemed to be the general
feeling, and the burning question now was, whether

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 11

it found France in readiness for her ordeal ? as until
the Army was mustered on the frontier, it was, of
course, impossible to form an opinion as to its
efficiency.

But there was yet a graver question, which one
could not fail to hear on all sides — What would Eng-
land do ? Would she leave France to take care of
herself, or was there more in the Entente Cordiale
than conventional words of friendship ? The next
few days, or possibly hours, would decide this. Mean-
while, as an Englishman one felt in the uncomfortable
position of being as it were " on probation," and could
only hope that all would turn out for the best.

A big crowd was awaiting the arrival of the train
in Paris, doubtless in the expectation of seeing Lord
Kitchener. An uncanny silence, that was quite in
keeping with the seriousness of the situation, seemed
to dominate all. The shadow of war was already
overhanging the gay city.

CHAPTER II

Irksome restraint on war correspondents — The Press Bureau — I determine
to make a dash for the war zone — Difficulty leaving Paris — A '" brain
wave " — The Commissaire of Police — My sauf conduit — Identification
notes — !My passport — Photographs on passports — Trains under military
control — I leave for Langres — A strange crowd — A little " incident "
before starting — An offensive passenger — A successful " dressing " — •
The eternal topic.

URING the early weeks of the war the
Ufe of the " Special Correspondent " in
France was scarcely worth living, as for
unexplained reasons the authorities were
one and all determined he should see as little as
possible of what was going on, with the result that,
unless he was content to fool away his time in Paris
waiting for permission to go to the front, he might as
well have returned to London forthwith.

After a very short time this irksome and appar-
ently needless restraint got on my nerves, and the
daily scenes in the streets of troops passing through
gaily decorated with flowers, only served to increase
my impatience.

At tlie Ministere des Affaires Etrangeres, where
a Press Bureau had been established, the officials
were courtesy personified ; but you soon realized
that this was only a polite method of putting you off,

-I^^.,.^^T', *^

u ,.

...'■- ?i^'\

, V

4^.

■1 ^

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 13

and that' they had not the shghtest intention of
letting you go where you pleased. As Lord North-
chffe has so aptly put it, " War correspondents were
treated at that time as reprobate camp followers."
So at last I determined to risk kicking over the traces
and decided to take French leave, since I saw no
chance of getting it given me, and to make a dash
for the war zone.

The principal difficulty, however, that presented
itself was how to get out of Paris, for the officials
were particularly on the alert and inquisitive in
respect to the movements of the War Correspondents,
and although the English Pressmen were in the very
zenitli of popularity, they were not exempt from
this vigilance. One could leave Paris, of course, in
any direction except that leading to the eastern
frontier.

I went and sat in a quiet little cafe and with the
aid of a railway map tried to evolve some likely
route by which I could get away. To attempt to
do so without the necessaiy permit m- as, I felt, out of
the question ; in fact, it would have been idiotic to
attempt it, as it would have only landed me in trouble
with the authorities and " spot me " unfavourably
at the very commencement of the war.

Suddenly I had a " brain wave." That morning
I had received a letter from my sister — who, as I
liave mentioned, is married to a French officer— to
tell me that Charles, my brother-in-law, would very
much like to see me before he left to join his battery,

14 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

and could I not manage to spend a few days with
them in Langres where they were Hving ? My
brother-in-law, luckily as will be seen, added a few
lines in her letter in French to this effect.

I have much regard for my brother-in-law, but
I must admit that the letter had not at first aroused
in me any very pressing desire to rush off all the way
to Langres to see him, as my sister suggested.

My " brain wave," however, put the matter to
me in a very different light now. Why not try to
get a permit to go as far as Langres ? There could
surely be no objection to my visiting my family, and
if I got this permission Langres was in the war zone
within easy distance of the frontier, so there were
certain to be lots of opportunity of getting about and
seeing something, besides which mj^ brother-in-law
would doubtless be able to help me.

I determined to act on the inspiration at once, as
there was no time to lose. I had been doing the
tourist in Paris too long already, and was fed up with
loafing from cafe to cafe and reading of the exciting
doings at the front, so I went to see a French friend
and without letting him know what I proposed doing,
asked casually what French people had to do to leave
Paris if they wanted to visit relatives in the country,
as it was not believable they were looked upon as
prisoners in the capital.

" They go to the Commissaire de Police of their
' quartier ' with their identification papers and crawl
on their hands and knees before him and beg humbly

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 15

to be permitted to buy a railway ticket for the place
they want to go to," he told me jokingly. " But it
is not easy, as travelling anywhere in France is not
looked upon with favour as you know," he added.
I had found out all I wanted and without giving
myself away.

Early the following morning I presented myself
at the Commissariat de Police of the Madeleine, and
producing the letter from my sister, asked if I might
have a permit to go to Langres. I should mention
incidentally that I speak French fluently, having spent
many years in France. After a few questions as to
my identity and glancing at my passport, to my joy
he made no difficulty about granting it. He seemed
a very decent fellow and evidentty did not think it
strange that I should desire to see my family, or that
I should have so much affection for my brother-
in-law, so I left the Commissariat armed with a
police sauj conduit for Langres via Troyes and
Chaumont.

On the document was written a complete
description of myself: age (which I had given
more or less accurately since I was not on oath) —
colour of my hair and eyes — various personal cha-
racteristics noted by the Commissaire himself — and
last but not least, my profession, which I had given
him briefly as " artist," deeming it unnecessary^
to add the extra information that I was a war
correspondent also, since that would probably have
aroused doubts in his mind and made him query

16 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

A\'hether it was within his power to grant me an
ordinaiy civilian permit.

From this moment, therefore, I felt that my
connection with the Press was nominally finished,
and I realized that this brief but impressive slip of
official paper was of more value to me on the risky
" stunt " I was undertaking than all the British
five-pound notes I had in my belt, and the mere
thought of the predicament I should be in if I were
ever to lose it whilst I was away, made an unpleasant
thrill pass through me.

It is of interest to recall here that in those earl 7
days of the Avar passports though useful were not yet
obligatory. I happened to have brought one with
me that I had used in the Russo-Japanese war ten
years previously ; but it was quite obsolete, and had
nothing in the way of identification notes or details
on it.

The regulation requiring a photograph to be
affixed to one's passport was not made until some
months later, and I believe it was a suggestion of
my own that started it, as a result of the many
irritating scrapes I had got into in consequence of
having no real piece dHdentite on me.

When I got back to Paris I made a point of asking
at the Consulate if I might as a favour be permitted
to attach a small snapshot of myself to my x^assport ;
and this was not only allowed but the photograph,
at my request, stamped by the Consul as well.

In my particular case this precaution amounted,

lli>\V llll-. WAR Will, HK WON -A SKKli II IN A I'AKIS r \V

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 17

as will be seen, to locking the door after the steed had
been stolen, as I had just returned from four months
of wandering along the eastern frontier, and was
fully aware that I owed this glorious time to the
incompleteness of my passport, and that had it not
been so most of my " adventures " would never have
happened. However, to return to my preparations.

Naught remained now but to find out the times of
the trains and to get off as soon as possible without
letting any of my colleagues know I was going.
There were only four trains a day to the frontier
and they were under military control, starting every
six hours to the minute, and only hand baggage was
allowed, so my packing was soon done.

Wright, who was staying in my hotel, happened to
be out at the time, so I left a note for him saying I
was starting on a little " stunt " of my own which
might mean my being away from Paris for some time,
and wishing him the best of luck in case we did not
meet again. There was a suggestion of mystery
and adventure in these few lines which I felt would
arouse a lot of curiosity as to where I had gone, and
as it turned out it did so effectually, as I afterwards
learnt.

I had also another reason for getting away as
quickly as possible. Although I knew that my sauj
conduitwn^ quite in order, I was just a little bit nervous
in case the fact I had been given it might become
known at the Press Bureau before I started, and I
should be stopped at the last minute.

18 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

Luck, however, was with me and I got to the Gare
de I'Est without seeing any one I knew. The sanf
conduit w^as a veritable open sesame, and I had no
difficulty in passing the sentries on guard and getting
my ticket.

It was indeed a motley crowd I found myself in
on the platform. There were two companies of
" riZ'painsels " of the Intendance Militaire — the
equivalent of our Army Service Corps ; quite a big
muster of officers in full campaigning kit of gorgeous
appearance, hung about like Christmas trees with
field glasses, compasses, map cases, water-bottles,
and other odds and ends all painfully new ; several
smartly dressed ladies unaccompanied, probably
wives — or others ; a group of grim-visaged Algerian
Spahis, stolidly indifferent to their surroundings ; some
sailors with rifles and bayonets ; and many civilians
with coloured armlets on their sleeves, giving them-
selves great airs of importance.

The train itself was quite a curiosity : it was of
immense length, and comprised several waggons
filled with horses, trucks loaded with transport
lorries, gun caissons and other military paraphernalia.
Every compartment of the passenger portion was
already full up or reserved, and there appeared to
be no distinction of class, so one got in anywhere one
could, and I managed after a long search for a seat
to squeeze into a second-class carriage.

It was a blazing hot afternoon, and wedged in the
perspiring crowd, one experienced an awful sensation

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 19

of suffoccition, so much so that the prospect of a long
journey under such conditions was almost terrifying ;
still it was some compensation to feel that I was at
last en route for the front.

In order not to run any risk of missing my train
in case by chance the hour of departure was suddenly
altered, I had taken the precaution of getting to the
station well on time, so as there Avas no necessity
to remain in the stuffy carriage, I got out and strolled
up and down the platform, making mental notes of
the interesting and novel things around me, as I could
not venture to take out my sketch-book.

I may have unconsciously evinced more than the
casual curiosity of a dawdling passenger, or perhaps
my somewhat sporting attire attracted undue atten-
tion— I was wearing a soft felt hat, Norfolk jacket,
breeches and gaiters. Anyhow, whatever the cause, I
suddenly became aware that I was being stared at,
that every movement I made was being noticed.
This continued for some minutes until at last to escape
it I thought I would get back into my carriage.

Just as I was climbing up I felt a hand on my
shoulder, and a voice called out —

" Pardon, monsieur, just wait a moment; I wish
to speak to you."

Looking round I saw a couple of gendarmes,
while a little group of officers stood close bj^, evidently
taking a keen interest in the proceedings.

" Kindly let me see your permit to travel," said
one of the gendarmes gruffly.

20 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

((

Certainly, and with pleasure," I replied, taking
out my sauf conduit, and handing it to him. He read
it over very carefully, then returning it to me, turned
to one of the officers and said, as I thought with a
certain 2wV/?<e —

" He is an Englishman and his paper seems to be
quite in order, and he has permission to proceed.
The officer shrugged his shoulders and walked away,
muttering something to his companions about its
being extraordinary that civilians should be allowed
to travel these times.

Although the incident, if it could be so termed, had
only lasted a few moments, it had not escaped the
attention of my fellow-passengers, and I noticed they
were none too civil as I pushed my way in ; nor was
this to be wondered at, my being spoken to by the
gendarmes was sufficient to arouse a certain amount
of suspicion as to my bona fides. I quite ignored
their black looks, however, and forcibly wedged
myself into my seat.

Exactlv to the minute the train crawled out of
the station and then every one began to make him-
self as comfortable as possible, which was a difficult
matter, for we were packed like sardines, and there
was scarcely room to move.

In the compartment there were two portly middle-
aged ci\'ilians wearing armlets indicating they were
on war service, a sailor and six soldiers with a ser-
geant, their cumbersome overcoats, knapsacks,
haversacks, rifles and accoutrement completely

Till'. liKI'AR'll'Kl', Oh KKSKR\ISIi:s A SKPVIIH (H'lSIDK I 1 1 !•: i;AKK DK

I.KST, I'ARIS

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 21

filling up the little space that was available when the
ordinary hand baggage was stowed, so it may bo
imagined what it felt like in such tropical weather.

We had scarcely started when one of the civi-
lians— a big bearded chap sitting opposite me who had,
I noticed, particularly resented my forcing my way
in — began glaring at me in a very offensive manner,
and started making significant remarks about me in
a stage whisper to his neighbour, who smiled in
agreement.

As I showed no sign of understanding what he Avas
saying he became emboldened to talk some^Ahat
louder for the edification of tlie others. What
with the heat and the incident with the gendarmes
my temper was not of the best at the moment, and
my back hair began to bristle. I felt that unless I took
some notice of his innuendoes I should have a very
unpleasant time during the long journey. It is very
annovin^: to find oneself involved in a brawl when
you feel peacefulty disposed towards everj^ one, but
there are times when, unless one is content to be
even as the worm, there is no alternative but to chip
in. I was in this position and made up my mind
instantly and not in favour of the policy of the
worm.

The fellow continued his remarks and at last said
something that J did not quite catch, but which
appeared to be so contem])tuous tliat even his
neighbour took objection to it.

This was my opportunity, and here my familiarity

22 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

with the vernacular helped me considerably. Leaning
forward and tapping him smartly on the knee I said
loudty, whilst looking him straight in the eye: " Per-
haps, monsieur, if you have anything further to say
about me 3^ou will sa}^ it to me direct, and let me have
the benefit of it in common with these gentlemen."

There was a moment of tense silence in the car-
riage and eveiy one waited to see what would happen.
The fellow gave a start and turned colour.

" I don't understand you, monsieur," he replied
in a mild tone of voice. " I was not addressing
myself to you at all."

" Oh, 3^ou understand me well enough," I retorted,
" and if you don't I shall have to put it more plainly.
I don't know you and don't want to, but I have as
much right to be in this carriage as you, and I don't
intend to allow you or any one else to annoy me in
any way."

To my surprise — for I quite expected him to
bluster a bit — he replied meekly that he regretted if
anything he had said had displeased me, but he had
not been aware I understood French so well.

" The incident is closed then," said I, using the
hackneyed French Parliamentary phrase, which made
the other men laugh ; and taking up my paper I
began to read it with studied nonchalance, whilst
feeling very cock-a-hoop at the successful " dressing "
I had given him.

Scarcely a word was spoken for some time after
this, and for reasons best known to liiniself the fellow

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 23

left us at the next station. Almost immediately
the tension in the carriage was relieved, and the
eternal topic of conversation — the war, and the
iniquities of the Kaiser — started at once, as every one
had the latest edition of the evening papers.

It was beginning to get a bit monotonous and I
was feeling drowsy, when some one referred to the
splendid appearance of the English troops. Up till
then I had thought it advisable not to join in the
conversation, as I did not know how they would
take it. But now I felt was my opportunity. The
civilian said that he was in Boulogne when a transport
had arrived from England, and every one was amazed
at the completeness of the organization of the British
— ^nothing seemed to have been overlooked — the}^ had
even brought over cases of jam and typewriting
machines. This appeared to have impressed them
more than anything else.

" And General Sir French ! " exclaimed one of the
soldiers enthusiastically. " I saw him arrive at the
Garc du Nord last week — what a welcome he had — if
he had been a King it could not have been different."
Whereat they all agreed that it only was what a
great general like Sir French merited.

I could not refrain at this juncture from joining
in, and thanking them as an Englishman for their
wonderful opinion of the British Army. The ice
^^ as broken, and now that it was plain that I was
not a Boche or a doubtful neutral, they all became
as friendly as possibki and overwhelmed me with

24 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

flattering questions about England and the number
of men we should surely send over to help France.

The British Navy was then referred to with a
sort of awed admiration, and the sailor, a sturdy
Breton, had something to say about it, and what he
himself had seen on different occasions. Then to
crown it all, in course of conversation with the
sergeant who was sitting next to me, I learnt that he
was an artist and had been a pupil of the Ecole des
Beaux arts ; and when I told him that I also had
studied there, we instantly became comrades and
even " thee-thoued " each other as is the wont
among students.

Bread and sausages, wine and fruit were produced
from various receptacles, and what might have easily
been a long and trying journey considering how
unpleasantly it had commenced, ended by being
quite a delightful experience for me, and when our
party gradually began to disperse, it was almost like
parting with old friends.

CHAPTER III

Arrival Troves — Warlike scenes in station — Last chance of getting supper
— The sergeant on duty at exit — "Some" sandwich — The sergeant
again — A little contretemps — The courteous general — From Troyes to
Langres — I oversleep myself — Marooned — We are chefs ! — Arrival
Langres — State of isolation — Absence of war news.

WE reached Troyes, where there was to be
a long wait, late at night. The station
was crowded with troops, long trains
loaded with artillery and material were
constantly passing through, and on all sides were
extraordinary scenes of animation. Every branch
of the ser\4ce seemed to be represented, for Troj^es
was not only a big railway junction connecting
Chalons, St. Dizier, Chaumont and Belfort, but also
an important concentration centre.

Everywhere the greatest good humour prevailed,
although most of the soldiers looked dog-tired, and
many were sleeping on the bare stone platforms. I
fancied, though, that there was less of the exuberant
enthusiasm which had before been so noticeable ;
prol)ably because it was realized that the war zone
ii.ul now boon reached, that we were on the xQry
tlireshold of 1 lie ()y)erati(ms, and tliat only a few hours'
jourucv wo\ikl briii^ them within sound of the iruns.

26 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

I had to change here for Langres, where I was not
due to arrive till the morning. I found that I had
an hour and a half to wait before my train Avent on.
It was my last chance of getting something to eat
that night ; there was no time to lose, I learnt, as
the cafes closed at ten o'clock, and it was then a
quarter to, so I hurried out of the station to try to
get some supper, the buffet in the building not
being open.

At the exit I was stopped by a sergeant on duty,
and had to produce my sauf conduit before he would
let me go out. My railway ticket didn't seem to
matter at all.

The nearest cafe-restaurant was just closing, but
the proprietor told me he would let me have some-
thing to take with me all the same — he would see
what he could manage, but they had been very busy,
and there was scarcely anything left in the house.
He came back and said all he could let me have was
a sandwich and a bottle of white wine — ^would that
do ? I had been looking forward to something
rather more inviting in the way of a meal, but it
was a case of " Hobson's choice," since there was no
chance of anything else till the next day.

Although it was now after closing time the cafe
was still full, so I sat down and had a chat with the
proprietor, whilst madame went to prepare the
sandwich. She soon returned with a huge packet
which contained a large loaf of bread cut in halves
and generously buttered, and at least half a pound

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 27

of ham in between — some sandwich — with this and
half a litre of white wine, I felt I need have no fear
of feeling faint from hunger during the night.

When I got back to the station encumbered with
my provisions, I had to pass the sergeant to whom
a few minutes previously I had shown my permit.
Either he did not recognize me or he wanted to be
nasty, anyhow he insisted on seeing it again. There
was no use arguing the matter, so I had to pro-
duce it.

This time to my surprise he scrutinized it minutely,
as though he had doubts as to its genuineness, whilst
I waited impatiently. Suddenly he exclaimed almost
triumphantly it seemed to me, " Your sauj conduit is
not in order."

" Not in order," I retorted angrily. " What's
wrong with it ? It was all right ten minutes ago, as
you know."

*' It should be dated to-day," he replied, with the
air of a man who has made a discovery and was going
to take eveiy advantage of it. Immediately I had
visions of being sent back to Paris, or worse.

In vain did I endeavour to point out to him that
it was not likely the Paris police would make such a
mistake, and that I had travelled all the way there,
and shown it already several times and no question
had been raised before ; that I had left all my baggage
in the railway carriage, and so forth.

He was obdurate: I could not enter the station
witli that permit, and that was the long and short

28 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

of it. He had nothing more to add, and I'd better
move on as I was blocking the entrance.

Attracted by our altercation a crowd immediately
gathered round me and, as a crowd always will do,
began to snigger with amusement at my discomfiture,
and I heard several jocular remarks on my appear-
ance as I stood there with my parcel of food and a
bottle of wine sticking out of my pocket.

I was quite boiling over with rage by now at the
pig-headed officiousness of the man, and remained
dumbfounded for a few moments wondering what
was the best thing to do, as there was no time to lose.

The doorway guarded by the sergeant was at
the entrance to the big booking hall of the station,
which was full of officers and soldiers. At this
moment I espied a full-blown general coming along,
and an idea occurred to me. Without an instant's
hesitation I made a dash past the sergeant and rushed
up to him and much to his astonishment explained
as rapidly as possible who I was and the predica-
ment I was in. The sergeant, who had hurried after
me, stood at attention close by.

The general courteouslv listened to what I had
to say, then asked to see the sauf conduit. He gave
a glance to it and turned to the sergeant and asked
abruptly —

" Why did you stop this English gentleman ? "

Realizing he had made a mistake and was likely
to get into trouble, the man began to explain ner-
vousl}^ why he thought my paper was not in order.

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 29

" You had no right to think ; your duty was to
use your intelHgence. This sauf conduit is quite
correct." And turning to me he added : " You are
entirely at Hberty to proceed on your journey,
monsieur."

I thanked him profusely for his courtesy.

" It is the very least we can do to be of assistance
to an Englishman when the opportunity presents
itself, and I am happy to have been able to be of
some service to you," he replied with courtly polite-
ness, as he bowed to me and passed on.

The sergeant meanwhile was standing stiffly at
the salute. I w^as about to hurry away when he
blurted out awkwardly —

" I present you my excuses, monsieur."

" That's all riglit," I said, and offered him my
hand. " You onlv did what you thoucrht was vour
duty."

" Merci, monsieur," he replied simply.

With two adventures already in the first few
hours of my " stunt," I realized that I was probably
in for some exciting times during my attempts to
reach the front, and that it was unlikely I should
always get off so pleasantly — nor was I far wrong, as
will be seen.

I had a first-class carriage to myself from Troyes
on, so I was able to enjoy my rough but ample supper
in comfort, and then settled down for the night, as
I was not due to reach Langres until eai'ly in the
morning — exact time uncertain.

30 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

The white wine must have been exceptionally
potent, for I slept like a top and did not wake till
six o'clock, when we stopped at a tiny wayside
station. I inquired casually at the window what time
we should reach Langres ? To my intense annoy ance I
was informed that we had passed it an hour previously,
and that I was only a few miles from Belfort. As
my sauf conduit would not carry me there, and I was
not looking for trouble, there was nothing for it but
to get out and take the next train back.

It was pouring with rain, and as the train steamed
away leaving me marooned in this out-of-the-way
place, my thoughts may be guessed.

I found that luckily I should only have about
three hours to wait, and as there was a little cafe
opposite the station I went across to it. There was
no sign of a village or another house near.

The place was full of soldiers, there must have
been half a company, and they had quite annexed
the premises. I went into the kitchen as there
was no room to sit down anywhere else, and managed
to get some excellent coffee with milk and bread
and butter, and afterwards a bowl of hot water and
a clean towel for a wash and a shave.

Two of the soldiers were busily engaged preparing
a dejeuner, an omelette au lard and a mayonnaise
salad of tinned lobster. It looked so appetizing,
and they were going about it in so deft a manner,
that I remarked to them jokingly that they would
make good chefs.

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 31

" We are chefs," was their reply.

I was only charged forty centimes (fourpence)
for the cofiee and bread and butter and hot water
and towel, which struck me as quite a record in
cheapness.

Langres was only on the fringe of the war, and
no actual military operations were taking place near
it, although there was a constant movement of
troops along the railway line that passed it. It
might easily, however, have developed into a position
of considerable strategic importance, as was the case
in the war of 1870, when the Germans got quite
close to it ; for it is described as a place forte and the
perimeter of its outlying forts commands the direct
route from the frontier to Paris.

On the opening of hostilities, three Zones des
Armees were fixed : the first being the frontier, the
second comprising an area extending some distance
behind it in which were the fortresses of Belfort,
Epinal, Nancy, and Verdun, and a third in which
were Langres, Toul, and Vesoul.

It is almost needless to point out that the attack
on France through Belgium had the effect in a great
measure of outflanking these last-named positions,
but at the time of which I am writing the menace
of invasion was apparently as serious in the direction
of Belfort as at any point along the frontier. Con-
sequently Langres was for some time in a state of
suspense, and for that reason especially most
interesting to be in.

32 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

TIic rain had ceased when I at last arrived, and
it had turned out a sweltering hot day, one of those
days when one feels like doing nothing but lolling
about in the shade. The picturesque old town is
situated on the summit of a high bluff which dominates
the country for miles. A quaint creaking little
funicular railway, known as the " Cremaillere,'^ for
a few sous saves one the awful exertion of walking
up from the main line railway station.

There was no one to meet me, as my sister had
given up hope of my coming, since I had not arrived
by the Troyes train, so leaving my baggage at the
station to be sent on later in the day, I made my way
to the town. Being the only passenger in the
Funicular I was subjected to many inquisitive
questions when I asked the way to my sister's house,
as she was the only Englishwoman living in Langres.

The narrow tortuous streets were now almost
deserted, and a Sabbath calm prevailed; in fact it
was all so quiet and peaceful in appearance that it
was difficult to realize one was actually in the war
zone.

I had been quite expecting to find myself here
in the midst of the turmoil of military activity,
considering how close is Langres to the frontier,
but very few soldiers were about at that early hour,
and there was nothing to indicate that the place
was in reality a closely guarded citadel of first-class
importance, and that there were no less than 40,000
troops quartered in the town. In the brilliant

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 33

sunshine of that summer morning Langres looked
but a slccp\' little provincial town far removed from
the war.

I Avas verj^ disappointed to find that my brother-
in-law had already left to join his regiment. He
had, I learned, postponed his departure as long as
he could in the hope of seeing me, and as it was very
uncertain what his movements were likely to be, it
did not look as if we would meet for some time. I
saw that there was nothing for it therefore but to
remain in Langres for the moment, and chance some-
thing turning up that would give me an opportunity
of getting right up to the front.

I found a comfortable room waiting me in a
delightful old-world house, and knew that I could
have remained there indefinitely, but I was on the
war path, and felt no inclination for the everj^day
amenities of life. I fancy had I known how I was
going to rough it during the next four months I
should not have been so impatient to get away.

There was, of course, much of military interest
to see every day in and around the town, for Langres,
far from being the sleepy and deadly dull little
provincial town I had imagined it on the morning
of my arrival, was in reality a very busy garrison
town, and the depot of a crack regiment — the
3me Chasseurs a pied. Its grass-grown, cobble-
paved streets resounded to the strains of martial
music and the tramp of armed men, and one was
continually seeing flower-bedecked regiments leaving

M ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

for the frontier. A new life had been infused into
its drowsy cafes and gloomy shops, and an era of
prosperity such as had never been even dreamed
of had almost miraculously come about.

One heard on all sides of fortunes being rapidly
amassed, whilst France was on the verge of invasion,
and only a few miles away the sound of the guns
could be heard. It was not this sordid aspect of
war I had risked leaving Paris to see, so my one idea
was to get a move on as quickly as possible. Apart
from this was the unsatisfactory feeling of being cut
ojff from all that was going on. True there were
almost hourly one- sheet special editions of the local
*' journal," but these only gave the official com-
muniques and the usual provincial gossip — no outside
news.

As an instance of the state of isolation we were
living in it will perhaps be of interest to mention
that I never heard or read a word about the Mons
retreat till weeks later.

No interest apparentty was taken in anything
but what Joffre chose to tell us, so the doings of the
British Army attracted no attention here. Even
the daily commtmiques were only of the vaguest
character, and I recollect what an a^ful shock it
was to every one when Joffre suddenly sprung upon
us, as it seemed, that " The front was securely held
from the Somme to the Meuse."

" But the Somme is a long way the wrong side
of the frontier : surely this must be a mistake, we

K-r"

t^"^\'.? a..q ^^\\

UK CllKKKKin. NEWS— A SKETCH IN I AN ORES

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 35

cannot have had to retreat akeady," was the general
topic of anxious conversation eveiywhere, till what
had really happened became known and we learned
how narrowly Paris had missed being captured.
Verily we had been living in a fool's paradise !

CHAPTER IV

In Langres — Glooinj' forebodings — Deadly monotony — Heartrending in-
cidents— Thrills of excitement — The postal service — Spy fever —
Sketching in the street — A trivial " incident " — Arrival of two fugitives
from St. Di6 — Harrowing tale — T obtain permit to go to St. Di6 —
My multifarious baggage — Early hour of starting — The train of refugees
— The first firing I heard in the war — The French Red Cross Society
— Pathetic little scene.

IN Langres at this time Frencli " successes "
appeared to come to hand every day, so
much so in fact that the early date of the end
of the war was discussed by the civihan
element with unbounded confidence.

The knowledge of the true state of affairs brought
about a remarkable revulsion of opinion, which
thereafter resolved itself into gloomy forebodings of
a long and desperate struggle, with even a possibility
of Langres itself being menaced.

The deadly monotony of the place ended by
getting on one's nerves — the curious characteristic
of the daily life w as the stillness which I have already
referred to. Although there were so many regiments
in the town there was quite a noticeable absence of
noise at all times.

No bugle calls except " reveille " and " lights
out " disturbed the quietude of the old streets ;

JK.>^<^u'..^'-^>•l^

N'll

AN ANXIOUS MOMKNT

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 37

even when the men were off duty in the evening
and invaded the principal thoroughfares they struck
me as being remarkably silent and quite different
to what one would have expected to find considering
the vivacity of the French nation.

One was constantly hearing of heartrending
incidents in connection with the departure of men
who belonged to Langres.

A cure told me that the most pathetic of all was
the rush to get married before they went aw^a3^ In
three weeks there had been more marriages, he said,
than usually took place in a couple of years ; in
most cases this being prompted by the desire to
" do the right thing towards their 7naUr esses. ''^
This touching idea was not, however, confined to
Langres, but was, I afterwards learned, the same all
over France at this period.

Occasionally there would be a mild thrill of excite-
ment when perchance an aeroplane was seen fi3ang
towards the town, and there would be anxious
moments till it was made out to be a French one
and not a " Taube ; " and sometimes when the wind
was in the right direction it was asserted that the
sound of the guns could be heard, but this I was
never able personally to verify.

A great redeeming feature of this daily monotony
was the fact that the postal service was still working
without restraint. I used to send by registered
post my sketches to the Illnstrated or my articles
for the Evening A^ews in the flamboyant red

38 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

" Press " envelopes these journals provided, without
any questions being raised. It was said that all
letters to Paris and elsewhere were held up at the
post office for five days in lieu of censorship ; of
this, however, I had no confirmation.

At Langres as elsewhere spy fever was rampant,
and 3^ou could never tell if you were being followed
and watched, so if I wanted to make a sketch or
note of anything I found a good method of getting
over this difficulty was to take my niece with me as
a sort of human screen, and she would stand care-
lessly in front of me, and thus hide my movements.

One had always to be on the alert, however, and
as an instance of this, I recollect one morning just
before dejeuner it occurred to me that I had forgotten
whilst out with her to make a note of a corner of a
street close by that I wanted in the background of
a drawing I was making. Thinking there was no
risk, as it was only a few yards away, and as I
was frequently walking round there and probably
known by sight, I went out alone.

There was not a soul about apparently, and I
was busily engaged making the sketch when an
officer came across to me from a house and asked
me if I had permission to stand there.

What I was doing was, as he could see, of so trivial
a nature that at first I treated his question in a
jocular manner, and asked him if any permission
was necessar}^ to make a few notes of the corner of
an ordinary building.

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 39

It did not, however, appear to him at all a joking
matter. " That is the Bureau of the Commandant
de la Place," he replied, " and I must request j^ou
to accompany me there, when you will be given an
opportunity to explain your business in Langres."

I saw it was useless to discuss the matter, so with-
out demur I went with him and was ushered into
the presence of a stern-visaged official seated in a
sort of office. " This, mon colonel, is the man I
told you about, who has been watched loitering
round here for some days, and I have just caught
him making a plan of the building," said my captor,
while I fairly gasped with astonishment at his
unblushing distortion of facts.

" What have you to say to this ? " said the
colonel severely.

In as few words as possible I explained who I
was and with whom I was staying ; as a matter of
fact, it was not a hundred yards away.

" Accompany him there and ascertain whether
his statement is true," directed the colonel in a
judicial manner.

So we went along to my sister's house, the
officer watching me narrowly the while in case I
showed signs of bolting. It was almost needless to
add it did not take long for my sister to convince
him that I was not a suspicious character after all ;
but before he went off he strongly advised me not
to risk making sketches in the street again.

^riic incident was trivial in itself, but it showed

40 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

what one was up against, and how careful you had
to be at all times no matter where you were.

A few daj^s after this little adventure the
opportunity I had been patiently waiting for to
push on towards the front " presented itself," as
the French say. A well-to-do wine merchant of
St. Die arrived unexpectedly with his wife in Langres,
where they had relatives. He gave a harrowing
tale of the sudden bombardment by the Germans
of the undefended town. There had been, it ap-
peared, a wild rush of inhabitants to find shelter from
the bursting shells, and at the first sign of a lull all
who could get away from the town had done so.

He and his wife had fortunately met a friend
with a powerful car, and thus had been able to get
out of the district safely ; but it had been a long and
terrible journey, as the roads were under fire and
blocked with troops and artillery being hurried up
to stem the advance of the Germans, and they had
been stopped to bring along two badly wounded
oflficers.

So hurried had been their departure that they
only had the clothes they stood in. The man was
enraged at the thought that his house, warehouse,
and valuable stock of wine in the cellar were perhaps
already in the hands of the enemy, whilst to add
further to his anger he remembered having left a
pocket-book containing a couple of thousand francs
in a coat hanging in his office.

With his wife now in safety he was burning to

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 41

make an attempt to return to St. Die to see if
his place was still intact, as it was rumoured the
town had not yet been definitel}^ occupied by the
Germans.

He proposed starting on his return journey on the
following da3% so I asked if he w^ould allow me to
accompany him, and he willingly consented as he
was going alone, but pointedly reminded me of the
Kaiser's threat to shoot all English correspondents
who fell into his hands, and adding with a knowing
smile that doubtless this included artists as well.

Through the medium of a friend of my brother-
in-law I had no difficulty in obtaining a sauf conduit
to leave Langres and proceed to St. Die, although
I was warned that it would only ensure my getting
a railway ticket and Avas no safeguard against my
being stopped at an}' point of the journey by the
military police.

I could not help feeling just a little bit anxious
on this score, as I was fully aware that a pass issued
by the civil authorities did not carry much weight
in the zone of operations ; however, 1 had to
chance getting through Avith it, as I was told it
was quite out of the question for me as a civilian to
be granted a military " laissez passer."

We arranged to start the following morning,
take the train to Epinal and thence push through
as best we could to Bru3-eres in the Vosgcs, if the
line still remained open, and spcjid the niglit there,
as my companion hoped to liiid a friend a\ lio would

42 ON THE PAl^H OF ADVENTURE

lend us his car. Failing such luck we would have
to tramp across country^ the remaining fifteen
kilometres to St. Die, if — and it would be at this
point where the doubt came in — ^we were allowed to
pass through the troops.

The train was timed to leave Langres at four
o'clock — an unholy hour, as it meant starting from
the house a little after three.

It was pitch dark when I staggered out into the
deserted street, completely weighed down by my
multifarious baggage, as I had decided not to leave
any of it behind, and there was, of course, no one to
carry it for me at such an hour. It makes me smile
even now when I recall the grotesque figure I must
have cut under my extraordinary load, which gave
me the appearance of a railway porter.

My companion was waiting for me at the station,
and I remember well his look of astonishment when
he saw me arrive thus encumbered, as all the luggage
he was carr3dng was a small ruck-sack slung over his
shoulder. Until then I had been under the impression
I was travelling " light," but this was a useful lesson
to me, and I mentally decided to jettison most of
my impedimenta on the first opportunity and carry
in future only what was strictly indispensable.

In this respect also one of the first things that
was brought home to me from now was the importance
of attracting as little attention as possible, for to
attract attention was to arouse suspicion, and you
were bound to be " spotted " if you had a lot of

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 43

unnecessary stuff with you. But this war was young
then, and one had a Httie forgotten one's former
experiences.

Our train was fully an hour late m starting, but
there were scarcely any civilian passengers, so it
did not much matter. There was no supervision
whatever ; you took a third-class ticket and got
into any carriage you fancied.

Apart from sentries at the stations and bridges,
the only indications of military activit}?^ along the line
for some distance were the traces left by the troops
in the shape of empty sardine tins, broken bottles,
paper and other debris which littered the permanent
way.

The first real reminder of the nearness of the war
was a long train crowded with refugees drawn up at
Laferte-sur-Amance, a small station where we waited
an interminable time. The carriages were packed
with old folks and young women and children ;
at first sight one might have thought it was a school
treat, but the look of despondency and hopeless
misery on most of the wan faces peering out of the
windows quickly dispelled the illusion.

We learned they were all from villages in Alsace,
and were being taken to a concentration area in the
south of France, where they would be looked after
till they could return . . . some day. Several of
the women leaned out of the carriages and told us
of the terrible events that had driven them from
their homes.

U ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

It was the already familiar story of rapine and
atrocity, but listening to it thus first hand as it were
from these simple peasants, it made a far deeper
impression than any newspaper report however
graphically written. At Darny the first station in
the Vosges we came into still more direct touch with
events, for the sound of heav}^ firing was plainly
heard, and Ave learned that a big engagement had
been in progress for some hours. It w^as about ten
kilometres awa}^ so the officer commanding the
detachment here told us ; but in the still atmo-
sphere it appeared much nearer.

I make special mention of this as it was the first
firing I heard in the war.

The war was still further brought home to us
here by a touching sight. A party of ladies of the
Red Cross Society from the town close by were
seated on chairs on the unsheltered gravel platform,
knitting and sewing busily, whilst waiting the
arrival of trains with wounded from the front. They
were mostly in dainty summer attire with Red Cross
badges on their arms, and made, I thought, quite a
symbolic picture of tender womanhood.

In the shelter of the tinv station were baskets
of freshly picked fruit covered with muslin, bottles of
champagne, white and red wine, milk and boxes
of biscuits, whilst on a table with a spotless white
cloth were glasses, cakes, chocolates, cigars and
cigarettes. All this was, I learned, but a counterpart
on a small scale of similar thouohtfulness of the

^1 It

\ : ._

' I r^'ll•' III I liiiiiilri' •"

'•?-;*r<'\\

■^;i] -1- { 4:.-

(ffi

\ \

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 45

ladies of the Society in all the stations along the
line.

The memory of this pathetic little scene and the
bright sunshine at that wayside station long haunted
me, and even now the sight of the French Red Cross
uniform always recalls it.

CHAPTER V

En route for St. Die — Troop trains — Camaraderie in the French Army —
A little anecdote in point — A rough sketch of a perambulator — I am
arrested — The Military Commandant — Amazing evidence — A narrow
escape — We reach I^pinal — A worried official — The line to St. Die
blocked by the Germans — In Epinal for the night — No profiteering —
]\Iy companion to return to Langres — I decide to attempt to go on to
St. Die alone — The train to Bruyeres — My lucky star in the ascendant —
The In-specteur de la Sitrete — First batch of German prisoners — War
" trophies."

FROM now on we heard the sound of the guns
the whole way ; at times, in fact, so close
by that we thought we should be under
fire.
At several stations we passed long trains closely
packed with troops and horses, drawn up in the
sidings ; the vivid colouring of the men's brand-
new uniforms clashing harshly with the delicate
tones of the summer landscape.

One could not fail to notice the friendly relations
that exist in the democratic French army between
officer and private ; military etiquette seemed to
be scarcely observed at times, especially when en
route.

An interesting instance of this cxiwuraderie occurs
to me. A regiment was entraining for the front ;

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTUllE 17

the men ^vx)re, as usual, packed like sardines in the
goods waggons. The colonel, who was worshipped
by his men, came along the platform to see if they
were all fixed up as comfortably as was possible.
He noticed the overcrowding and probabty contrasted
in his mind this discomfort with his own luxurious
first-class compartment. Going up to one of the
waggons he asked : "Is there any room in here ? "

" Only for one more, mon colonel," was the reply
of the sergeant in charge.

*' Well, I'm coming in with you. What's good
enough for my men is good enough for me," said the
colonel, and up he climbed.

In any other countiy this would not have been
considered conducive to discipline, but in France
quite the contrary view is taken.

At a somewhat important place where we stopped
for some time a little incident occurred which might
easily have broken my journey, as it was I only got
out of it by the skin of my teeth.

We were standing on the platform waiting for
the train to start ; my companion had met some one
who had just come from the neighbourhood of St.
Die, and was having an interesting conversation
with him. I was joining in by asking a few questions
about the fighting and the arrival of the troops there,
when I saw a stream of refugee peasants crossing
the line, and as our train showed no signs of moving
yet I strolled along to get a nearer view of them.

It was a pitiful spectacle, mostly women and

48 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

children, old and young, weak and strong, and it
occurred to me what an interestijig picture this would
make, so without reflection I pulled out my sketch-
book to make a few notes of detail. There was in
particular a child's perambulator of curious shape
which it would have been difficult to draw from
memory.

I had just finished making the roughest sort of
sketch, but quite sufficient for my purpose, as I
always add a few verbal notes if I have not time to
finish anything, when a soldier with rifle and fixed
bayonet came across the line and said that the
military commandant of the station wished to speak
to me.

I immediately scented trouble, and visions of
missing the train arose before me ; however, there
was no help for it, so I followed the man to the
commandant's office after looking round to try and
attract my companion's attention^ so that he would
know where I had gone.

A middle-aged officer of smart appearance was
awaiting me ; standing by him was the man from
St. Die with whom I had spoken on the platform.

To my amazement, without the slightest preamble
and in the manner of a policeman giving evidence,
the fellow turned to the commandant and said —

" This person came up whilst I was in private
conversation on the platform with a gentleman
from St. Die, and after listening attentively for some
minutes he began asking me a lot of questions about

•- <^

r
o

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 49

the disposition of our troops there, and wanted other
information of importance, all of which of course I
refused to Give him, mon commandant ; then he
left us and proceeded to make notes of what I had
told him in his pocket-book."

" Faites-moi voir 9a, monsieur," said the officer
abruptly.

I handed him the book without hesitation open
at the page I had been drawing on. Nothing could
have been more innocent than this sketch of a child's
perambulator, but the marginal notes scribbled in
English gave it, I will admit, a certain appearance
of mysterj^

" What is the meaning of this ? " he asked sternty,
after a moment's examination.

" I hope it looks like what it is meant for — a
voiture d' enfant," I said, with an attempt at
jocularity I did not feel ; adding, " I am an artist,
and this is an ordinary sketch-book, and here is my
sauj conduit,^'' producing the document.

" That may be so, but I am not prepared to
accept your statement that this is merely a sketch ;
in any case you have no permission to make sketches
here," he replied. " So you will have to remain
until I receive instructions from Epinal."

" Remain here ! " I exclaimed, my temper rising
rapidly ;" but 3 ou have no right to detain me;
there is no harm in this silly sketch."

Just at that moment, to my intense relief, my
companion hurried into the office. " You will lose

50 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

the train if you are not quick," he called out im-
patientty.

In a few words I explained what had
happened.

" But I know this English gentleman," he said,
addressing the officer, "and I will vouch for his
integrity. He has been specially recommended to

me by General , whose letter I believe I have

on me now;" and fortunately he happened to
have it still in his pocket. " We are travelling
together, so what more natural than that he should
be interested in my conversation with this man,
whose suspicions are unjustifiable ? As for his sketch
I will answer for its innocence, and I know him to
be an artist."

In the face of such testimony the commandant
had no option but to return me my sketch-book and
let me depart, but it was a close thing catching the
train, as it was actually moving when we jumped
into our compartment.

" It was very lucky I saw you being taken to the
commandant's bureau," said my friend laughingly,
" or there is no knowing what might have happened."
And I agreed readily, while mentally resolving that,
however tempting the subject, I would not be seen
with my sketch-book in my hand again while I was
in the war zone, unless I was accompanied at least
by a gendarme.

It was late in the afternoon when, after inter-
minable delays, we reached Epinal. It had taken

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 51

practically the whole day to do a journey usually
made in four hours.

The station was so blocked with troops that it
was not an easy matter even to get out of the carriage,
this therefore probably explained the reason of our
belated arrival. A big operation was evidently
pending, and the wildest rumours were flying about.
Meanwhile the guns were booming ceaselessly a short
distance away.

After some difficulty we found a worried-looking
official, who informed us in disjointed sentences, for
he was being harassed with questions from all sides,
that it was impossible to get on to St. Die, as it had
been occupied by the Germans since the morning.
The line was only sure as far as Avelline for the
moment, but there would be no train in that direction
till the following day, if then, for no one could tell
what the next few hours would bring about. The
situation was very serious, that was all they knew.

This intelligence, of course, upset all our plans,
so there was nothing for it but to remain in fipinal
for the night, and I was not altogether sorry, for I
was dog tired as may be imagmed.

My companion had friends in the town with whom
he proposed to stay, so we arranged to meet the
following morning and see if we could make a fresh
start, i was therefore left to my own dev ices.

By great luck I found a man to carry my luggage
and help me look for a bed. This proved no easy
matter, as eveny' hotel and bouse near the station

52 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

liad been requisitioned for officers, and it was only
after considerable difFicult37^ and much walking about
that I hit on a room in a small hotel-restaurant near
the market-place.

Considering the crowded condition of the town
there was certainly no profiteering in this establish-
ment, for I was only asked two francs fifty for a
very clean and cheerful room, nor was the bill of
fare by any means extortionate. There was a mess
room, the habitues of Avhich were chiefly ex-officers
of the Customs of the Alsatian frontier, and at the
suggestion of the proprietor, a very genial fellow, I
was invited to join them. Eor a really excellent
lunch or dinner with wine unlimited and coffee, I
v/as only charged the usual mess tariff of one franc
fifty ! This mess was such a cheery little affair that
it almost made me regret I was not staying longer in
Epinal.

I left instruction to be called early, but this
proved unnecessary^, as shortly after daybreak I
was effectually awakened by the din of a furious
cannonading which lasted for some hours and
precluded all idea of lying in bed trj-ing to
sleep.

I met my travelling companion as arranged. He
was very dejected ; there was heavy fighting all
round St. Die, he told me, and although it was un-
certain if the Germans were still there, it was com-
pletety unget-at-able, so he feared his house and
warehouse were lost. Under the circumstances,

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 53

therefore, he did not feel inclined to attempt
to get there, and had decided to return to
Langres.

I was naturally very disappointed, as he was an
interesting companion, but there was no help for it,
and I had not known him long enough to venture
to discuss his decision. But my mind was made up
instantly. I was not going to return to Langres,
and I told him so bluntly. I had started with the
intention of getting up to the front, and unless I
was absolutely prevented, I intended going on, even
though I had to go alone.

He tried for a few moments to dissuade me,
pointing out the risks I ran, and more especially
as I had not got a militaiy pass. Seeing, however,
that I was obdurate, he said he would give me two
letters to an employe he had left in charge of his
house — one of these dealing with business matters,
the other to tell him to give me a room and make
me comfortable for as long as I cared to sta}-, and
adding as a postscript that the best wines in the cellar
were to be offered to me, or words to that effect.
As to food, he told me jokhigly that if the cuisiniere
were still alive he was sure 1 should be well looked
after, as she was an excellent cook.

It was veiy friendly on his part doubtless, but I
realized that the chances of my being able to avail
myself of his hospitality were vague indeed, and
depended entirely on the Germans. In an impulsive,
good-hearted fashion, before leaving me he attempted

54 ON TKE PATH OF ADVENTURE

once more to dissuade me from going on. but I wonld
not listen to liira.

I will confess that I felt just a little lonesome
after he had gone, although he was only so new
an acquaintance, for I \^'as now quite on my
own, and entirely dependent on my luck to get
through.

It has been said that a person can feel as lonely
in a London crowd as he would in the midst of a
desert, and I experienced that feeling in Epinal
with thousands around me and not knowing a
soul. However, it Avas no use giving way to
it, the best thing to do was to get off as soon as
possible.

At the station I learned that conditions had
considerably changed since the previous day, and
that I could now only get as far as Bruyeres, and
that there would not be a train till the following
morning. I settled to go by it and chance when
there getting on further towards my goal. I have
always found that hazard is a big factor when one
is on an expedition of this sort, and that it is
usually the best way to make one's plans as
one proceeds.

At Epinal I could ascertain nothing as to the
conditions of the country beyond Bruyeres, which
to all intents and purposes was off the map for the
moment ; but it was certain that in Bruyeres I should
be able to learn something of what was going on,
and if I were fortunate I might perhaps even get a

Qnr,

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Ox\ THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 55

lift of some sort towards vSt. Die if the road still
remained open.

I may mention that I have alwavs had a Micawber-
like confidence in the probabilities of " something
turning up at the right moment." And it has
seldom failed me. It was to happen again at this
juncture.

As I came away from the station I suddenly
recollected a letter I had brought from Langres,
and which I had been asked to deliver personally
in Epinal. It was for one of the professors at the
technical college, so there was no difficulty in finding
his address. I was fortunate enough to catch him
just before he went out. He received me most
cordially and insisted on my lunching with him and
his wife.

On learning I was going to Bruyeres he gave me
a letter of introduction to the mayor of the town,
who happened to be a great friend of his, asking
him to do all he could to help me. So my lucky
star was evidently in the ascendant and I no longer
felt like a lost sheep.

During the afternoon I went back to my room to
pack. Luggage, I had realized, except what one
could carry on one's back, was out of the question,
so I bought a ruck-sack, which with my sketching
bag would hold just indispensable requirements.
It took some time to decide what I could do without
really to travel " light," and I was surprised what a
lot I could leave behind. The landlord, however,

56 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

kindly undertoolv to take cliarge of my big
baggage.

I was busily occupied, when there was a sharp
knock on the door, which I had locked, and on my
opening it, in walked a tall, stern-faced man in
civilian attire.

He glanced round the room, at my things
scattered about, then produced a sort of pocket-
book, and showed me a photograph of himself
pasted inside.

" I am an Inspecteur de la Surete," he said gruffly,
'' and I have come to ask what 3^ou are doing in
Epinal, and where you are packing up to go to from
here ? "

His manner was aggressive and unpleasant, to
say the least of it, but I instinctively felt it was no
good losing my temper. So for all reply I produced
every paper of identification I had, and spread
them out on the table. My sauf conduits from Paris
and from Langres, my passport, the letter of recom-
mendation to the Mayor of Bruyeres, and a photo-
graph I fortunately had with me.

He examined them all carefully one by one
Avithout saying a word till he came to the Foreign
Office passport which, as I have already pointed out,
was an old one, and almost covered with official
stamps, then his manner changed and he apologized
profusely for intruding, said that everything was
quite en regie, and that I w^as at liberty to go in
whatever direction I desired. " Epinal is infested

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ON THE PATH OF ADVENTUKE 57

w'ltli German spies," he added, " and we are bound
to be suspicious of strangers."

While at dinner there was a bit of excitement
that made every one run out in_to the street. A
batch of German prisoners was being brought along —
the first that had been seen in the town. There were
only eight, in charge of four gendarmes, with rifles
and fixed bayonets.

As might have been expected at that early stage
of the war theii' uniforms looked quite new, but w^hat
struck one as curious was, that tliev were all bare-
headed, and that there was no sign of a regimental
badge amongst them. On my remarking this to an
officer standmg by, he told me that helmets, caps,
and badges were always annexed as " trophies of
war " by the captors.

The collecting of trophies of war was, however,
not confined to helmets and such like.

There w^ere two grim yarns told of the Senegalese
black soldiers — most ferocious fighters as is well
known. It had been noticed how jealously one of
the men guarded his haversack, as though he had
something of great value he was treasuring up. One
day it was discovered that this consisted of a parcel
containing twenty-three human ears, in various
stages of decomposition. They were all from the left
or " heart side," which it appeared gave them more
value, as it indicated he had captured them from
the enemy, and he explained he was going to take
them home as " souvenirs," to make a necklace with.

.3.^ ox THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

The other story was still more gruesome, as in
this instance it was actually a German's head that
the black warrior was carrying in a cloth attached
to his belt, and which he likewise proposed to take
back with him as a " war troplty."

CHAPTER VI

From Epinal to Bruyeres — Arrival Bruyeres — Wonderful spectacle military
activity — Sad procession of refugees — Scenes in the streets — The mayor
of Bruyeres — Finding a lodging—" Memorizing " sketches — Unwel-
come attention— The Commandant d'Etape's office — Into the lion's
mouth — The headquarters of the 21st Corps d'Armee — The surly
major — I am put under arrest — The Anglo-French interpreter — My
dejevner at Bruyeres under observation — A long and tiring afternoon
— The decision — In the custody of gendarmes — Unpleasant experience.

I STARTED for Bruyeres early the following
morning, with a dcliglitfiil sense of freedom
at having no luggage to trouble about. And
as it turned out it was veiy fortunate I was
unencumbered, as the train was cro\^'ded and it was
difficult to get a seat.

The line from Epinal eastward runs through
the most beautiful scenery of the Vosges, which
before the war was always greatly frequented b}^
landscape painters; but now it was being laid waste
on all sides, trees ruthlessly razed in front of the forts
that crowned the hills, whilst bivouacs of troops,
convoys passing along the roiwl, and above all the
distant thunder of the guns rudel}^ dispelled all
suggestion of sylvan tranquillity. Yet strangely
enough at one spot near a charming little village,
we passed a merry party of boys and girls bowling
along on their bicycles, out holiday making evidently.

60 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

It took some hours to reach our destination, the
train crawling along from station to station as thougli
there was some apprehension it might be under fire
at any moment, for we were Hearing the operations,
and close to the preiniere ligne.

Round Bru3'eres militarj^ activity became more
pronounced, and when at last we arrived a glance
was sufficient to satisfy me that, even if I could not
proceed any further that day, there was sufficient
to keep me busy wdth my pencil for some hours.
The place was alive with troops and it was difficult
to make one's way through : an important movement
was afoot. I learned that a famous Langres regi-
ment, the 21st Infantry, had just come in after its
sensational march on Mulhouse and was being
hurried through to Avelines close by. But it w^as
not so much this that immediately attracted my
attention as the extraordinary spectacle all along the
road leading from the town. It was an interminable
procession of refugees coming from St. Die : a motley
concourse tramping wearily by, regardless of the
munition convoj^s, motor lorries and cars going
forward.

Many of the people staggered along with house-
hold effects on their back, while others pushed peram-
bulators, hand-carts, and bicycles loaded with every
imaginable object. It had evidently been a question
of what could be saved and getting out of the range
of the guns as quickly as possible. I saw one little
girl carrvdng a kitten in her arms.

■it

!>•

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 61

It had started to rain heavily, yet all along the
pavement of the main streets hundreds of people
were seated stolidly munching food that had been
provided by the townsfolk. It was a scene of misery
I shall long remember, and the pathos of it all was
heightened by the continuous booming of the guns
in the distance.

I made my way to the Mairie to present my letter
of introduction, deeming it advisable to put myself
right with the authorities, in case I had been " spotted"
by some over-zealous police official.

At the entrance to the building I ran into an
elderly man in his shirt sleeves. This was the mayor,
and he looked so hot and worried that I was quite
sorry to trouble him M'itli my trivial business. He
was very affable, however, and after reading the
letter told me I had better find a room to sleep in
first of all, and then come and see him — adding, he
was so bus}^ he didn't know which \\a,y to turn and
hadn't been to bed for two nights. It was no time
for ordinary conversation, so I hurriedl3/ left him.

It was not an easy matter to find a lodging, and
I thought people looked somewhat askance at me
for asking. At last, however, at a small cafe they
agreed to fix me up somehow for the night. With
this vao;ue assurance I had to be satisfied, so leavinjz
my belongings in the charge of the proprietor, I
went out to have a look round the town.

There were subjects galore for pictures, and I
was nuich tempted to risk making some sketches ;

62 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

but there were so many people about, that on reflec-
tion I thought it more prudent to try and memorize
them, and jot them down at the first convenient
opportunity.

I was soon drawn to the conclusion, however,
that " memorizing " also attracts attention, for I
presently became aware that I was being looked at
rather more than I liked. The idea then occurred
to me that I would ask the mayor if he could get me
an official permit to do what I wanted openly.

As I was retracing my steps to the Mairie I
happened by good fortune to meet him again. " I
personally camiot do what you ask," he said, " but
if you go to the Commandant d'fitape, and tell him
what you want, and say that I suggested your calling
on him, no doubt he will arrange it for you."

I thanked him and without hesitation went off
there at once.

The Commandant d'Etape's office was on the
first floor of the Mairie. A sentiy at the foot of the
stair allowed me to go up without any difficulty.
An attendant indicated a door on the landmg, and
opening it ushered me in without any ceremony.

I expected to find myself in the presence of some
elderly officer who would probably be alone or perhaps
with a secretaiy, instead of which I was in a spacious
council chamber, round a long table in the centre
of which were seated a number of officers in Staff
uniforms. A general was seated at the head of the
table.

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ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 63

In an instant I realized that I had made a mistake
in coming there, and had practicalty put my head into
the Hon's mouth. But it was too late to retreat, the
door was closed behind me, and I stood stock still
not knowing what to say, as all eyes were turned on
me in astonishment.

The general broke the silence, saying genially,
'' What can we do for you, monsieur ? "

Stepping forward I produced my papers, and
handing them to him stood at attention whilst I
explained that I had just arrived at Bruyeres, and
I would be glad if I could be granted permission to
make sketches round about the town.

He glanced at the passport. " You are English ? "

" Oui, mon general," I replied.

" You speak French remarkably well for an
Englishman."

" I lived several years in Paris, mon general."

Turning to one of the officers, he said in a lower
voice. " You know Enghsh, have a chat with him
and see what you make out of it."

The officer without rising from his scat began
asking me a lot of questions as to who I was, where I
came from,, and so on. He talked English about as
well as the proverbial " Vache Espagnole," but
that was a mere detail. I could just make out what
he was driving at, so I replied unliesitatingly and at
much length, though I don't think he understood half
of what I was saying.

When 1 had finished he had a whispered

64 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

conversation with the general, several of the officers
leaning forward to get the gist of it. I was not
supposed to hear, but I could not help catching
the ominous words : " Correspondant de guerre."

As I had not said a word to my interlocutor which
I thought could give the slightest hint of my connec-
tion with the Press, it can be imagined how uncom-
fortable I felt, journalists being still absolutely
taboo in the war zone.

After a little further parley sotto voce, the general
turned to me in a most friendly way, and said that he
personally could not grant my request, but if I would
go to the Headquarters of the 21st Corps d'Armee,
which were not far off, and ask for a certain colonel,
w^hose name he gave me, doubtless I would be given
every assistance. I thanked him and said I would
follow his advice and go there at once, and an
officer then pointed out through the window my
nearest way to walk there.

As I came away I felt mad with myself for not
having chanced remaining in the town without
coming into contact with the military authorities ;
but there was no help for it now, I had to see
it out.

For a moment the idea flashed through my mind,
supposing I didn't go to the Headquarters after all.
I was not forced to follow the advice the general
had given me. But somehow I had an uncom-
fortable feeling that it was not exactly " advice."

Something prompted me to look back. A tall

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 65

man in civilian attire of unmistakable military^
bearing was strolling nonchalantly behind me.

The Headquarters were in a large building
standing in its own grounds on the outskirts of the
town. It had probably been a college or something
of the sort before the war. Now it was occupied
b}^ General Legrand, who was in command of the
Bruyeres sector at that time.

As might be expected there were sentries ever\^-
where : gendarmes were on duty in the big open
space in front of the house, their horses picketed
close by, and there was a continual coming and going
of officers and cars and dispatch riders on motor-
cycles. The sentry let me pass without demur when
I told him the name of the officer I had come to see,
and I made my way to the main door, A gendarme
took my card in, telling me to wait outside.

After a little dela}^ I was ushered into an office,
where I found myself in the presence of the most
surly, ill-disposed officer I have ever met in France
or elsewhere. He was in rank a major, and in
appearance a middle-aged man with a bristly red
moustache, and evidently in a chronic condition of
spleen. He had bully written all over him, and in
his eyes a civilian was evidently little more than
dirt.

What do you want here?" he snapped out.
Let me know as briefly as possible, for I have no
time to waste."

Seeing the sort of individual 1 had to do with, I

I''

66 ON l^HE PATH OF ADVENTURE

realized that if it rested with him any chance of
friendly treatment was out of the question. Inhere
was, however, the hope that he was only a subordi-
nate, so I produced all my papers and handing them
to him explained the object of my visit.

He glanced at them, then without comment took
them into an adjoining room. In a few moments he
returned and said rough ty —

" You will be given your answer presentty.
Go and wait outside."

It is ver}^ seldom that I find myself at a loss for a
reply if I am treated with discourtesy, but I will
admit that for once I was nonplussed. The malevo-
lence of the fellow was so unexpected and so uncalled
for that for the moment I was speechless with anger,
and could think of nothing to say.

The rain had left off and it was blazing hot in the
garden, but fortunately there was a chair under the
shade of a tree, and so I went and sat down in it
and lit my pipe. A little while after, an officer came
out from the house and strolled across to me and
offering his hand said in perfect English : " Pretty
warm here, isn't it ? Awfully sorrj^ to have to keep
you waiting, but I don't suppose it will be for very
long."

His whole manner, his appearance, and tone of
speaking Avere in such marked contrast to that of
the man I had just left, that they dispelled my ill
humour at once.

He \v'As a young fellow — tall, slim, and good

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 67

looking, in the uniform of an interpreter attached to
the Headquarters. I agreed with him as to the heat
and expressed the hope I should not be detained many
minutes, as it was getting near luncheon-time and I
was beginning to feel just a bit hungry.

" Well, I am afraid you won't find a Carlton
or a Savo}^ dejeuner in Bruyeres," he said with
a laugh.

He evidently knew London well, and his English
was so good that I asked him if he were really French.
" Well, half and half," he replied jocularly, " as my
mother is English, and I was educated in England
at Eton."

We were gradually drifting into quite an inte-
resting conversation when it flashed through my mind
that he had been sent to find out all he could about
me, and if I were really an Englishman. I had, of
course, nothing to conceal, apart from my connection
with the Press ; but I was not going to let this
youngster cross-examine me, so made up my mind to
tell him just what I wanted him to know and nothing
more — however much he might " pump " me. All
the same we had quite a long chat about " dear old
London," as he called it. And it turned out that
we had several mutual friends there, so when he left
me to return to his bureau, he could have had no
doubts at all as to my genuineness.

I must have been waiting just on two hours, and
was getting very " fed up " ^^■ith it all, when another
officer came out of the building and beckoned to me

68 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

to go over to him. It was then just on one
o'clock.

" You can go and get some lunch," he said, " but
kindly return here immediately afterwards ; we have
telephoned to Epinal for instructions respecting j^our
application, and should have the reply by then."

I thanked him and said I should be back again
w ithout fail within an hour.

As I went out of the gate, a gendarme who had
been reading a newspaper close by, got up and
lounged casually after me. Knowing of no other
place in the town but the cafe where I had left my
belongings I made my way there. Something again
prompted me to look back as I turned a corner. The
gendarme was following leisurely in my footsteps.

Before leaving Epinal I had fortunately taken the
precaution of putting some bread and sausage and a
few apples in my bag, in case there was any difficulty
in getting food anyw^here, and this foresight saved
me from going hungiy now, as there was nothing to
be had at the cafe. With half a litre of wine I had
quite a decent repast, which as it turned out was all
I was to get till late at night.

I was just commencing my meal when I happened
to glance into the street, the door of the cafe being
wide open. On the pavement just outside, leaning
against the lamp-post, was the gendarme who had
followed me.

I went out to him and said : " There is no need
for you to hang about in the heat, you will get

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 61)

sunstroke. Come inside and have a cup of cofFee
and a cigar while I eat my lunch."

He looked at me with astonishment for a
moment, then blurted out, " I don't under-
stand you, monsieur."

" Well, never mind if you don't," I replied. " I
know very well that you are watching me, to see that
I don't run away, so you might as well do it sitting
down in the cafe with me as standing about outside."

He burst out laughing and said, " How original
you English are!" and followed me in.

" I won't keep you waiting long," I said as we
sat down.

" Oh, don't you worry, monsieur. Take your own
time, I am quite at your service," he replied politely.

Feeling no desire to enter into conversation with
him, when his coffee and cigar arrived I passed him a
newspaper and, getting a book out of my bag, started
reading myself.

Although he had said he was in no hurry, he had
evidently instructions to follow, as no sooner did he
see I was finished than he rose saying : " We will go
back now if it is agreeable to you, monsieur." So
we strolled back side by side in quite friendly fashion,
many people looking round at us, no doubt wondering
w^hat I had done to be thus accompanied by a
gendarme.

I resumed ni}' seat in the garden and awaited
events. For quite an hour not a soul came near me ;
then the interpreter came out for a few moments

70 ON TRE PATH OF ADVENTURE

to let me know, as he said, that no reply had been
received as yet from fipinal.

" Why have you telephoned about me at all ? "
I asked.

" Because," he replied with a laugh, " you have
not got permission to be at the front, and we have
asked for instructions whether you can remain."

" Am I then so close to the operations ? " I asked
in feigned ignorance.

" Close," he answered: " why, we are only a few
miles from the premiere ligne, as if you didn't know,"
he added jokingly in his excellent English as he
left me.

The afternoon dragged wearily on; I dozed and
smoked and smoked and dozed and would have
given anything for the book I had left in my bag at
the cafe. The life and bustle of the place had
quietened down by now, and there was nothing to
occupy one's mind.

I ventured once to stroll further into the garden,
but was recalled by a sharp " On ne passe pas par
la, m'sieur," from a watchful sergeant who was close
by all the time.

At last at about five o'clock an officer, a colonel
of gendarmerie, whom I had not seen before, came out
with a paper in his hand. He walked up to me and
said abruptly —

" I have received these instructions with reference
to you : kindly give them your attention. Your
api)Ucation to be allowed to remain in the zone of

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 71

operations is refused, and you are to be directed
(dirige) without delay and under arrest to the South
of France. You have understood ? "

" I am to be sent to the South of France," I
repeated in amazement. '' What have I done to be
treated in this summary fashion ? "

" I have not to argue with you, monsieur," he
repHed, withan impatient shrug of his shoulders, "but
to carry out my instructions; and I therefore hand
you over to my men to take you to the railway,
where an escort awaits you."

" And where am I going then?" I ejaculated
helplessly.

" Either to Macon or to Lyons," he replied.
" That will be decided later."

" But I have left all my belongings in ]i]pinal.
What shall I do about them ? I have nothing with me
but what I stand up in," I exclaimed impetuously.

" That is your affair, monsieur," he retorted
coldly; " but doubtless you will be able to get them
after the war."

In vain did I protest. He was obdurate. " But
the things I left at Bruyeres, can't I have them now ? "
I insisted.

" You may go with the gendarme and fetch them,"
was his gruff rejjly, in the manner of a man unwillingly
conferring a special favour.

Then turning to the sergeant he handed him the
document he had with him, saying : " Here are your
instructions, and your feuille de route : you will go

72 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

to-night," and went off without addressing another
word to me.

To say I was absolutely staggered was no exagge-
ration, but the sergeant left me no time for solilo-
quizing.

" Allons — partons," he ordered. So off I was
marched through the town with guards on either
side with rifles and fixed bayonets. As may be
imagined a crowd w^as soon following; I was evidently
taken for a German spy, and it was anything but a
pleasant experience, as at any moment I might have
got struck on the back of my head with a stick by
some patriotic and excited citizen.

On our way we met the mayor. He stared in
amazement on recognizing me and wanted to stop
and speak ; but the sergeant hurried me on, and I
was only able to call out to him as I passed : "I
have been arrested for coming here."

At the cafe one of the men went in and fetched
my traps ; what the proprietor thought of me I do
not like to think. Then I was taken through side
streets to the gendarmerie station.

Here was another officer, and I was about to be
put in the lock-up, when it was suggested that as it
was such a hot afternoon I should be left outside, as
there was no fear of my getting away ; so a stool was
brought and I was harshly told to " sit down."

The sergeant and his men then left me to my
reflections. Close by some women — wives of the
men probably — were seated sewing and chatting, and

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 7:5

several little children were playing around, to ^^'llom
I was evidently a source of much interest.

After a little while it became irksome remaining
still so I got up to stretch my legs. Instantly the
sergeant came over to me and said roughly : " You
will remain seated — until you are told to move, and
don't let me have to tell you again," he added
significantly.

I saw there was nothing for it but to obey. I had
always heard that gendarmes are not pleasing folk
to deal with — that they only know one word " duty,"
and I was now getting a proof of it, and there was
more still to come.

To while away the time I took out my sketch-
book and started making some notes of the women
sewing and the children around. This fortunately
did not arouse the ire of the sergeant, for he said
nothing, although he looked hard at me, as though
turning over in his mind whether there was any
regulation against it.

Meanwhile supper was being cooked by one of
the men, and soon the aroma of a soupe d Vognon,
to which I am particularly partial, was wafted my
way, and I began to wonder whether I was to be
given any of it.

At last it was ready and the sergeant served it
out with great chunks of bread ; the men eating the
savoury stew out of their mess tins.

I anxiously waited to be at least asked if I would
like some ; but not a word was said, although there

74 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

appeared to be ample and to spare. They finished
up their meal with a piece of cheese and a good swig
of red wine. My opinion of the gendarmerie went
down to zero.

But all gendarmes are not of the same character,
as I found later.

CHAPTER VII

Bruyereg — Still in custody — A feeble attempt at hilarity — Am marched
across country to the railway— -A debonair cavalryman — The sergeant
loses his way — Arrival at station — Am handed over to military escort
— En route — The men's supper in the train — The kind-heartedness of
youth — We reach I^pinal — The friendly Commissaire— My parole— I
am set free — I return to Langres — Events shaping rapidly — Evacua-
tion of Langres ordered — " Bouches inutiles " — My savf conduit to
Troyes — In Troyes — The commissaire of pohce — I decide to make for
Mailly-le-Camp.

ET your things together, we are going to
start," said the sergeant, coming across
to me, wiping his mouth with the back
of his hand, and evidently very contented
with his meal.

" I am quite ready if you are," said I. Then
suddenly, I can't tell why, the humour of the situa-
tion struck me, and I held out my hands to him
saying, " Voila."

What does this mean ? " he asked gruffly.
I thought perhaps I had to be handcuffed," I
replied, with a feeble attempt at hilarity.

" There's nothing to joke about," he retorted,
" and if you are not careful you'll have them on."

Comment was needless, and I did not say another
word to him from then on. I j ust did what he ordered,

((
((

76 ON THE PATH OF ADVENIXTRE

witli the satisfaction of knowing- that it could only
be for a very short time.

xVnother gendarme accompanied us, and off we
started along a road which led away from the town
and \^'hich was new to me. Curiously enough as
we did so a heavy cannonade commenced, apparently
quite near, and our route lay straight in the direction
from which it proceeded.

It was a glorious evening and under ordinary
circumstances the walk w^ould have been enjoyable,
for the countryside was very beautiful. But now the
horizon was plumed with bursting shells and the
God of War reigned supreme.

We tramped for several miles along what was
apparently a main road, but w^hich was strangely
deserted, though now and again w^e met wounded
soldiers being brought along. At one place we caught
up with the most debonair cavalryman I have ever
seen outside a picture.

He was a chasseur a clieval, a good-looking, long-
legged, devil-may-care fellow with cigarette hanging
on his lip, seated loosely on his horse in quite rakish
fashion with one hand resting on his hip. As he
moved along, his lithe body swaying in rhythm to the
horse's slow steady plod, he reminded me of one of
those preux chevaliers so beloved by Meissonier, and I
should have liked to have made a sketch of him.

He seemed to be very much interested in my
plight, for as we came up with him, he had a whispered
chat with the sergeant as to who and what I was and

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 77

where they were taking me to. As we passed on
ahead, to my astonishment he called out to me in
perfect English —

" Good luck to you, old chap ; keep your pecker
up ; see you some day in London."

I looked back and waved my hand in grateful
recognition.

A little further on a cart track tempted ni}' guards
to make a short cut across countn \ But it was
evident neither of them knew the way, and at last
we came to a broad ditch, \\hich barred further
progress, and they pulled up and had a long discussion
as to the best direction to take.

The sergeant went on to reconnoitre, but before
he left he told me peremptorify to sit down and not
attempt to move. He was obviously verj?^ peevish
when he returned and admitted he had come the
wrong way, and that we should have to go back and
continue by the main road.

Night was on us, and a dark one at that, when
we reached the station we had been making for. A
train was waiting at the platform. My escort took
me to what appeared to be the officer in charge and
handed him the document concerning me. He read
it by the light of a lantern, then called out for a
sergeant and two men. The paper and a few verbal
instructions were given, and I was then marched off
to a third-class carriage and told to get in, and the
train started.

It was decidedly uncomfortable and smelly in

78 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

the carriage, as it was full of tired dirty soldiers sitting
and lying about in all sorts of awkward positions,
and their muddy overcoats and rifles and accoutre-
ments appeared to fill every particle of space. They
managed, however, to find me somewhere to sit
when I had pushed in.

A corporal leaned forward and asked the sergeant
in a whisper what I'd been doing ; and I fancied I
caught the word " espion " in the low reply. After
this they all seemed to regard me Math suspicion,
and there was a long silence.

There was the merest glimmer of light which
precluded all possibility of reading, and the seat was
so hard that even to doze was out of the question.

After a while the men began to get food out of
their haversacks, and started what was probably
their supper. The sergeant and the corporal hob-
nobbed with a box of sardines, a big sausage and two
loaves of military bread.

The recollection of the gendarmes' meal came back
to me, but these j^oungsters were of a different
brand and generation to those stiff-lipped veterans.
'Jlie corporal cut a slice of bread, put a chunk of
sausage on it and offered it to me.

It was an act of spontaneous kind-heartedness of
youth, and made me for a moment forget the pickle
I was in. I accepted it and thanked him heartily,
telling him at the same time how grateful I was as I
had had nothing to eat or drink since mid-day. It
was then past ten o'clock at night.

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 79

The others stopped eating and looked at me, and
I heard one of them whisper to another : " Le pauvre
bougre afaim.'' Almost at once wine was produced,
a tin mug filled and given me. Mysterious news-
paper parcels were brought out of grimy canvas bags,
and cheese and meat and other eatables were pressed
on me.

Suddenly as though a thought had struck him,
one of the men asked me abruptty : " What are
you ? "

" I am an Englishman," I replied.

" An Englishman," he repeated : " then why are
3^ou a prisoner ? The English are our friends."

" Simply because I am an inquisitive artist and
came up here without permission to see the fighting,
and am being sent back again."

The sergeant pulled out the paper he had received
with me and read it carefully by the light of a match,
and then said it was quite true.

" Pas de chance," some one remarked.

*' En effet," agreed a voice from a corner.

" They are sending you far enough back," said
the sergeant with a grin, still looking at the document.

" Somewhere in the South of France," I added,
to let him know I had some idea of the direction.

He nodded as though not liking to tell me the
worst.

" And where are we going to-night ? " I asked.

" Onh^ as far as Besangon, where we stay till
to-morrow and receive our instructions.

80 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

I then learned that this was one of the trains
d* approvisionnement which bring up food to the
premiere Hgne, and these men corresponded to our
A.8.C., being solely employed on this particular duty.
I soon found myself chatting with them all, and
found them a very interesting and intelligent lot of
young fellows, so the time slipped unnoticed in spite
of the hardness of my seat.

At length the train pulled up not far from a big
station.

Where are we now ? " I asked the sergeant.
This is Epinal," he replied to my surprise, as I
did not know we were going in that direction. " I
shall have to see whether there are any instructions
awaiting me. I don't suppose we shall remain here
many minutes. Please don't move, will you ? " in
a most friendly fashion, and of course I understood.

Whilst waiting his return I sat and reflected on
the irony of my ill-luck that brought me back here
Mhere all my belongings were without the remotest
chance of getting at them.

But my luck had not deserted me after all, as the
sergeant came back in a few moments and told me,
to my joy, to get out as the train was not going any
further that night, and I was to go with him to the
Commissaire of Police in the station.

It was some little distance from where the train
had stopped, and it was Y^ry tiring walking over the
innumerable lines and along the permanent way^
but to me it seemed quite a pleasant stroll, although

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 81

I had a soldier on either side with rifle and fixed
bayonet.

The commissaire recognized me, as he had seen
my sauf conduit that morning before I started on my
unlucky expedition. The sergeant handed him the
fateful document, but he appeared to know its
contents already. He was polite but firm.

" You will remain here till the train leaves in
the morning." Then turning to the sergeant he said,
*' You will fetch him at nine o'clock." The sergeant
withdrew.

An idea occurred to me : the commissaire seemed
a decent sort of fellow.

" Monsieur le Commissaire," I commenced, " I
want to venture to ask you a favour."

" What is it ? " he replied, in a not unfriendly
tone.

I then told him how I had left all my belongings
in a room in the town and what a fix I should be in
without them. Would he let some one go with me
to fetch them ?

He looked at me for a moment, and then said
that he himself would go with me. I sat down and
waited. Suddenly as though he had just thought of
it he said —

" If I allow you to sleep at your room to-night,
will you give me your parole to be here at nine
o'clock in the morning ? "

" Monsieur," I replied, " I cannot thank you
sufficiently for your courtesy, and you can rely oa

82 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

my word as an Englishman that I shall be here at
that hour."

" It is just as well that I am accompanying you,"
he said as we went along, " as otherwise you might
have found a difficulty in getting admitted at this
late hour. There are very strict police regulations
here."

Needless to add I got in without any trouble,
while fortunately the room I had vacated that morn-
ing was unoccupied. It was with a curious feeling
of relief that I found mj^self alone once more, and
although I knew that I was still under arrest I slept
like a top.

At nine o'clock to the very minute the following
morning I presented myself at the Bureau du Com-
missaire de Police with all my belongings. The
Commissaire was at his table writing ; he looked up
as I entered, glanced at the clock and said with a
smile —

" Vous etes a I'heure militaire, monsieur."

" Well, there's nothing like being punctual,
even for an unpleasant job," I replied.

He continued his writing for a few minutes, then
after blotting it with careful deliberation he turned
towards me and said : "I have the pleasure to
announce to you, monsieur, that I have just received
instructions to liberate you, and to inform you that
you are free to go in whatever direction you like
provided you leave Epinal at once, and do not
attempt to return to the Vosges."

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 83

I need not say that in my relief I had no
thought of cavilHng at the terms, indeed I had no
option in the matter, so without hesitation I agreed
to this.

" Alors," he continued, " decide where you
wish to proceed to from here, and I will make you
out a sauf conduit and give you a railway pass." I
settled, therefore, to go back to Langres for a few
days,as I had a lot of work to get through, and when
there to think over my further movements.

There happened to be a train shortly after, and he
courteously sent for a porter to carn^ my things to
the carriage, and then cheerily wished me bon voyage.
He was, as I had summed him up on the previous
evening, a very decent fellow, but I somehow had
the impression that all he was doing for me now ^^'as
oil " instructions."

I had plenty of time while on the jovirney to
reflect on the untoward termination of my first attempt
to get up to the front ; but when I put the pros and
cons together, I came to the conclusion that, in spite
of all the unpleasantness I had been through, it had
been a very interesting experience, and I did not feel
the slightest regret in having risked it.

I may here mention incidentally that the adven-
ture, if T may so call it, had a curious sequel. Several
months afterwards, when I had almost forgotten it,
T received a postcard from the young Franco-English
interpreter of the Headquarters at Bruyeres. It was
written in Englisl) and said: *' Sujipose you have

84 0>; THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

returned to England by now, so I thought it would
interest you to know that up to the present, you are
the only correspondent who has succeeded in getting
here."

It had therefore evidently been known all along
what had been my errand, and I had been pluming
myself at the time in having so successfully disguised
my journalistic calling.

Upon my arrival, I need scarcely mention how
surprised my sister was to see me and to learn the
cause of my sudden return, though she admitted
that she had been very anxious about me, when the
St. Die merchant returned from Epinal, and told her
of my decision to go on alone.

Much, I learned, had happened during the few
days I had been away, and there had been great
military activity in the district around Langres.

Events were shaping rapidly : it was evident that
the brunt of the operations had shifted from the
North-Eastern and Belgian frontiers to the vicinity
of Paris. Everything pointed to the next days or
possibly hours being fraught with fateful issue.

My first impulse was to get on as quickly as
possible in the direction of the capital and attempt
to get into the thick of things, as it was clear that it
was there that all the interest centred. I soon learnt,
however, that this was out of the question, as for the
moment no railway tickets were being issued there.
They wanted no more superfluous inhabitants within
the circle of the Paris forts. I therefore reconciled

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ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 85

myself to remaining where I was for a few days and
getting on with my work whilst waiting an oppor-
tunity to move off.

Langres, with its Vauban ramparts and ancient
streets, appeared very quiet and peaceful after the
military life and bustle I had just left, and I was not
over-joyed at the prospect of perchance being
forced willy-nilly to remain in the town until the
railwav became a^fain available.

After a few days, however, events came to my
rescue in quite an unexpected fashion. Whether it
was the advance of the German armies necessitated
big strategic displacement of troops in directions not
comprised hitherto in the zone of operations, or for
other reasons which obviously could only be surmised,
a ma7idat was issued unexpectedly by the Militar^/^
Governor of Langres to the effect that the town was
to be evacuated by a certain date.

To give the exact words of the proclamation, A\liich
had quite a mediaeval smack to it, the " Bouches
inutiles," which meant all non-combatants, had to
leave. The wives and children of officers were to bo
sent to Clermont Ferrand, and the remainder of the
superfluous population towards the South of France.

Amongst others particularly specified were " All
strangers in the town," and of course I came within
this cateojorv, so I had to make arrangements to take
my departure forthwith, Avhilst my sister, being the
wife of an officer, started packing up the house prior
to leaving it for an indclinite ]>eiiod.

86 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

An officer with whom I had become very friendty
came to my help at this juncture and procured me a
.^auf conduit as far as Troyes, which would bring me
in fairly close proximity to the fighting on the Marne,
and also a special letter of introduction to the com-
missaire of police there, who was from all accounts a
very complaisant fellow, and who could be of great
assistance to me. So off again I started on the w ar-
path.

I had been recommended to a veiy well-kno\Mi
hotel at Troyes, and on the strength of it got a room
without any difficulty, and although it was a very
old house everything was very up to date, in fact a
little too much so, as it was a bad prelude to the
rough time I felt was ahead of me.

Troyes is a paradise for a wandering artist, and
had it not been that I realized it was no time for
loafing about I could have spent days in its quaint
nooks and corners and wonderful old cliurches. As
I have already mentioned, it was at that time a big
militar}^ concentration depot, and I found it presented
quite as busy an appearance as Epinal, though of
course it was very much larger,

I lost no time in calling on the commissaire of
police. He received me with the greatest cordiality,
and I knew at once I had got a friend in him, and as
it turned out I was not mistaken.

The battle of the Marne, which was to have so
cogent a bearing on the whole course of the war, had
just commenced, and I had learned that the line from

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 87

Troyes to Chalons and Rheims passed close to the
area of operations in the Champagne Pouilleuse at
several points ; if, therefore, I could manage to get a
permit to go in that direction, I was certain to see
something of the fighting.

The commissaire agreed that this was the route
I should take. Unfortunately, however, the line was
not working for the moment, it had been cut some-
where ; but he promised to give me a sauf conduit
directly it Avas notified it was open again. I had
perforce but to bear my soul in patience, as there
were no other means of getting there otherwise — and
a car was out of the question. Meanwhile he good
naturedly told me to keep in touch with him and he
would let me know as soon as it was possible for me
to go.

He was certainly the most affable commissaire
of poUce I had ever met, and he was also as good as
his word, for the following morning he informed me
that if I was still of the mind to get out to the zone of
operations there was an opportunity that day in a
relief train that was going through to Sommesous.
Needless to say I jumped at the chance, and he made
me out a permit enabhng me to get a railway ticket
to any part of the line with which communication
would be open.

I managed to find out in a vague sort of way that
probably my only likelihood of finding a lodging and
food any A\ here near the battlefield would be at
Mailly-lc-Camp, which, although the scene of much

88 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

fighting, had not been occupied by the Germans,
it was therefore supposed it was not entirely destroyed
and abandoned.

So I decided to make for Mailly and started off
that evening with nothing but my ruck- sack on my
back, and a stout stick in my hand.

I may mention that I had been strongly advised
not to take a revolver with me, in case by any chance
1 had the ill-luck to fall into the hands of the Germans.

CHAPTER VIII

From Troves to Mailly-le-Camp — Disadvantage of travelling first class in
the war zone — An uncomfortable journey— I arrive INIailly- — The
deserted station — I find a guide — Ruins on all sides — The only auberge
in the village — A truculent-looking crowd — My oratorical effort — A
bienvenue — A well-ventilated bedroom — Awakened by gun-fire — Flies
everywhere — Procession of refugee peasants — The Chief of Gendarmes —
I am lent a bicycle — Off to the battlefields of the Marne — Harro\\ing
sights — The village of Sonmiesous — Bestial malignity of the Hun —
The dying Saxon officer — The "Territorials" a cheery crew — Two
good yarns.

ONLY a few soldiers were going by the train,
so it Avas practically empty, and having
therefore the choice of carriages I naturally
jumped into a first- class compartment —
only to discover that I should have been better off in
a humble third, as all the cushions had been removed
from the seats. This I learned subsequently was
frequently the case, as they were useful as beds for
wounded soldiers, so one always fought shy of
unoccupied first-class carriages in the zone of oper-
ations.

There was no light in the compartment, and it was
therefore as uncomfortable a journey as could be well
imagined.

I had taken the precaution to ask a soldier who
was acting as guard to the train to let me know wlion

90 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

we got to Mailty, as I had not the remotest idea how
far it was or how long it would take to get there ; and
it was fortunate that I had done so, for when at last
he opened the door and told me I had arrived, the
place we had drawn up at was quite unrecognizable
as a station in the pitchy darkness of the night.

The sound of heavy firing reached my ears as I
clambered down gingerly from the carriage on to a
heap of rubble which was part of what had been the
platform.

With much screeching and snorting of the loco-
motive, the train rumbled slowly away, and I found
myself marooned in the gloom.

I shall long remember my impressions of that
moment. The sense of utter loneliness that came
over me was positively uncanny, and for a moment I
felt absolutely helpless.

Gradually, however, my eyes became accustomed
to the darkness and I was able to distinguish the
outline of the station building badly damaged by
shell-fire. A little way up the unsheltered platform
stood a sentry immobile as a statue, with a lantern
on the ground beside him, the only signs of life and
light in the place.

I walked up to him and inquired the way out and
to the village.

" The village," he echoed : " there is not much
left of it, but what there is, is that way," indicating
the direction with a jerk of his thumb. Knowing
that talking with him might land him in trouble, as

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTUKE 91

sentries are, of course, not allowed to carry on a
conversation, I left him and groped my way out.

The road outKside was ankle-deep in sticky mud and
there was no sign of a footpath. It was raining fast,
and I was standing wondering what on earth I should
do and thinking what a fool I was to have come,
Avhen suddenly a light appeared moving in my
direction, and as it got nearer I saw it was an aged
peasant with a lantern, plodding stolidly through the
mire.

As he came along I stopped him and asked if he
could direct me to an auberge where I could get a
night's lodging.

He started back as though ho had been hit —
as he evidently had not seen me standing there,
then holding up the lantern peered at me steadily
for ail instant. Civilian strangers were doubtless
unusual in the locality, and I could see he did not
know what to make of me.

In order to reassure him and to let him know 1
was not a German sp}'-, I told him where I had come
from and my nationality.

He hesitated a moment as though in doubt as
to whether he was doing the right thing, then said
abruptly, " Suivez-moi." As I saw he was not
inclined to be communicative I merely thanked him
and let him lead the way, floundering along as best
I could in his tracks, guided by the uncertain light
of the lantern.

As wc went along the flickering rays lit up a \\ cird

92 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

spectacle of desolation on either side of the road,
tottering walls, charred timbers, heaps of smoking
rubble and here and there an ominous glow from some
smouldering ruin.

We proceeded in silence for about half a mile
till we reached the corner of what appeared to be a
main road, when my guide stopped and turning to
me said, " Voila," and without another word
left me.

I stood watching the light from his lantern till
it gradually disappeared in the distance. I then
looked round me. It was so dark that for a moment
I could not discern anything, and scarcely dared to
move for fear of falling into a shell hole.

All of a sudden I espied a slight ray of light, and
venturing towards it discovered I was just outside
a house, the beam coming through a crack in a
shuttered door. I could hear voices inside.

This was evidently the auberge,so I rapped sharpty
with my stick. The talking ceased abruptly, but no
one came. I rapped again still more loudfy. Then I
heard footsteps approaching and a voice called out,
" Qui est la ? "

" I am an Englishman," I rei^lied, " and I want
you to put me up for the night."

There appeared to be a muttered conversation,
then there Avas the sound of bolts being drawn, the
door opened slightly, letting out a ray of light that for
an instant dazzled me, and then I saw that the place
was full of soldiers.

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 93

The man who had opened the door stared at me
veiT hard for a moment and then said, " I cannot
let 3'ou have a room, the whole place is in a state of
confusion and ruin."

'* Well," I answered, " I am very sorry for your
trouble, mon ami, but I don't propose to remain out
here in the rain and mud, so you will have to do the
best you can for me." And with that I pushed my

way in.

It was an ordinary peasants' cafe with three large
tables in it, and round them, drinking wine and
smoking, were about thirty territorial soldiers — men
of anything up to fifty years of age, mam^ of them
grey-haired fellows, w-hose military duties would
consist of guarding the railway lines, culverts, bridges
and other work that did not call for the hot ardour
of youth.

It was as rough and truculent-looking a crowd as
could well be imagined, and their muddy uniforms
and general unkempt appearance, did not tend to
soften it.

My abrupt entrance caused somewhat of a sen-
sation,'as may be guessed. They all turned round and
stared at me with surprise, which struck me as not
altogether friendly.

There was an awkward silence. I felt instinc-
tively that unless I made a favourable impression at
once I should have an unpleasant time. Under
ordinary circumstances I am horribly nervous at
the mere thought of having to make a speech, but now

94 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

I realized that there was nothing for it but to say
something.

My thorough knowledge of French and Frenchmen
helped me out. Advancing to the centre of the room
I raised my hat and said : " J'ai I'honneur de vous
saluer, messieurs. Pardon my intrusion ; I am a
wandering English artist and have been sent from
England to make sketches of the glorious French
Army, of which you all form part, and I was told
that round about Mailly I should find splendid
subjects for my pencil. It is, I feel, a bit of real luck
that has dropped me here amongst all you good
fellows, and I hope we shall be great friends, as my
heart and soul are with France."

There were loud exclamations of approval on all
sides at my oratorical effort, and then a burly black-
bearded sergeant, who looked like an artist, strolled
up to me and gripping me warmly by the hand
said in the fraternal slang of the " quartier
liatin " :

" Tu es un brave, et nous sommes contents de te
voir ici."

" Then," said I, " let me lose no time in cele-
])rating my arrival. Permit me to pay a hienvemte, as
we used to do when I was a student in Paris." And
turning to the proprietor, who was looking on, I
ordered drinks all round, and then of course they
drank to La vieille Angleterre, and I to La belle
France, and in less than an hour I was "one of them"
and felt I had reall}- dropped on my feet here. It

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 95

was all done in double-quick time, but it had to
be done impulsively, or it would have missed fire
altogether.

And so started a far cheerier evening than I had
anticipated. But duty is duty, and the Territoriaux
are second to none in this respect, and after a time, at
the command of the sergeant, they, all put on their
accoutrements, took up their rifles and filed out into
the darkness, to disperse to their various pastes,
wishing me a cheery "Au revoir, a demain" as they
went.

The cuisine adjoined the cafe, and here madame
was superintending the cooking of supper for the men
about to be relieved. I already felt on such friendly
terms that I strolled in with my pipe in my mouth
and asked what she was going to do for me in the
shape of a room.

" Mais, monsieur," she said, " I know not what
to do ; we have only just got back here and have Jiad
no time to see to anything. There is not a pane of
glass left in any of the windows upstairs, and all the
rooms are in a shocking state."

" Never mind," I replied, "a la guerre — comme a
la guerre, I'll manage somehow."

But when I went up to have a look I found what
she had told me was no exaggeration — a shell had
burst on the corner of the roof and had done a
tremendous lot of damage.

However, I lent a hand, "and we managed to clear
up one of the rooms suiliciently for me to sleep in

96 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

that night, and nailed some stuff over the sashless
windows to keep out the weather.

When I returned to the cafe I found awaiting me
a plate of steaming stewed beef, flanked by a bottle
of excellent vin gris, the only wine the Germans
had left in the cellar ; and whilst I was doing justice
to the meal the proprietor came and sat opposite
me and poured all his woes into my ears just as if I
had been one of his old habitues.

The following morning shortly after six o'clock
I was awakened by the most terrific gun-fire I had
yet heard, so dressed hurriedly in order to be ready
for any emergency.

On going outside I found that the village was only
partially destroyed, many houses being completely
untouched, and there were quite a lot of inhabitants
about. The cafe was deserted at that early hour
and looked very dirty and dilapidated in the daylight,
whilst the flies swarming everywhere did not improve
matters and considerabty interfered with my cafe
au lait. I don't think I ever saw more flies to the
square yard than here, and the knowledge of the
proximity of the battlefield suggested horrible thoughts
of their origin.

The broad highway outside the cafe presented an
extraordinary spectacle of war — a long line of artillery
and munition caissons was passing in one direction,
whilst in the other was an endless defile of refugees
from neighbouring villages, with their goods and
chattels piled high on every description of vehicle ;

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 97

the incessant thunder of the guns in the distance
adding to the impressiveness of the scene.

The battle, I learned, was still raging, but the
Germans had been driven back everywhere and were
in full retreat all along the Marne.

The nearest point of the fighting at that moment
VN'as about five miles away, so I was all impatience to
get up as close to it as possible. But it was not to
be done as easily as it seemed. I had first to inter-
view the chief of the local gendarmerie, and show him
my papers, or I should be asking for more trouble.

Then the question arose as to how to get out to
the battlefield and back again. I had already decided
to make Mailly my headquarters, as it was practically
certain there w^as no chance of finding anything in
the way of food and shelter further on. It was not
a very long distance to walk, even there and back,
but ever}^ hour was of importance, as the operations
would be getting further and further off, so I should
have to think of a way to get a lift along the
road.

The chief of the gendarmes was a man of a very
different stamp to the martinet of Bruyeres ; although
he was a gendarme to the backbone, he seemed
human. Curiously enough he recognized the sig-
nature on the .saw/ conduit as that of an old colleague,
so this rather broke the ice. He made no difficulty
about my staying in Mailly, and even evinced a certain
interest in my work.

As I came away from his house, a bicycle standing

98 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

against the wall outside suggested an idea. Why not
bike out to the scene of operations ?

I had done a lot of cycling in my younger days
and it would be an easy matter to take it up again,
and I should thus be independent of every one for
getting about. But the difficulty, of course, would
be to find a machine, as it was scarcety likely there
would be any spare ones in the village.

My luck, however, was still in, and during the
morning I came across a man who had one he could
lend me. There was only one slight drawback, which
was that it was a lady's bicycle, but it would answer
my purpose very well, so I took possession of it at
once. Immediately after dejeuner I set off on a
quiet spin to Sommesous, the next village to Mailly,
and which had just been cleared of Germans.

There was a glorious feeling of freedom as I
bowled along, for it did not take me many minutes
to get into the ways of my unaccustomed mount,
and luckily I had a straight level road for some
distance and pretty well all to myself. High trees
on either side shut in the view ahead of me. The
thunder of the guns had meanwhile gradually dimin-
ished, and was now but desultory firing, giving one
the impression of a storm that had expended its
fury for the time being, but which at any moment
might start afresh with renewed fury.

Gradually there were signs around me that the
scene of the fighting was close at hand,-: shell holes —
broken telegraph poles — shattered tree-trunks, till

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 99

at length the road emerged into open undulating
country with cornfields and grass land. A short
distance ahead were the smoking ruins of the pictur-
esque village of Sommesous in an oasis of sheltering
trees.

From here on the battlefield extended on both
sides, and there was grim evidence everywhere of the
fierceness of the fighting : crops trampled down,
sheaves of corn rotting in the fields. The countryside
was positively littered with the awful debris of war :
broken rifles, shattered caissons, accoutrements of
every description, fragments of big shells.

The war was in its early stages then and trench
work was in its infancy, so it was pitiful to see the
poor little attempts that had been hastily made to
get shelter against the rain of projectiles in the
more exposed parts of the ground, and how advantage
had been taken of the very smallest hillock.

Most of the trenches were but shallow furrows
scooped in the loose soil, and would scarcely have
given cover to a rabbit, leave alone a man. I as-
cended a slight eminence just off the road overlooking
the village, where the struggle had evidently been
particularly acute, and it was doubtless the gallant
holding on at this exposed point that forced the
Germans to retreat from the place.

There were many harrowing sights here: blood-
stained surgical bandages, broken rifles, torn over-
coats and other things that told their own tale. But
the most impressive of all was the number of small

100 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

Ilollo^^'s dug hastily to serve as shelter pits,
most of them were no bigger or deeper than a
washtub ; many were black with coagulated blood
and full of empty cartridge cases. The ground
was quite honeycombed with these gruesome little
hollows.

Ambulance men were to be seen in all directions
searching among the bushes and copses for the
wounded and dead.

I made my way down to the village to find that
the troops were still there and all access barred, and
I deemed it advisable not to linger too long in case
I was asked if I had a military permit to be there ;
but with this exception one could apparently wander
where one chose.

As I was retracing my steps it occurred to me to
take back a broken rifle as a souvenir, so picked up a
good specimen — there were hundreds to choose from
— and tied it on my handle-bar.

A little further on, as I was passing a group of
soldiers, a sergeant stopped me much to my horror,
as I immediately thought I was in for arrest at least,
but to my great relief it was only to ask me if I was
not aware it was strictly forbidden to take away a
French rifle. As I did not know it was a French
one I had annexed, I told him so. Very good
humouredly then he advised me to throw it away at
once before the gendarmes saw it. Needless to add I
did not require a second hint.

We got into conversation and he strolled along

a:
o

a!
'J

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 101

with me, and I learned some interesting details of
the German repulse during the previous days.

We were then on the outskirts of the village, and
he took me into a delightful villa that had been
wantonly wrecked by the Huns. Unless I had seen
for myself what they had done here, I should never
have believed it possible for human beings to have
been capable of such bestial malignancy. The
principal bedroom, which had evidently been ex-
quisitely furnished, was defiled in a manner that I
dare not describe, and the other rooms were almost as
bad. Nothing that could be smashed or torn up had
escaped their attention ; it was as though raving
madmen had been let loose in the place.

At the railway station close by was a painful
spectacle. In the little waiting-room a Saxon officer,
mortally wounded, was lying on a stretcher dying.
He had probably been left behind as being too
terribly injured to be moved in an ambulance train.
The whole of one side had been blown away, and he
was quite unconscious, while his life was ebbing
rapidfy.

The place he was in was completely bare and he
was quite alone. There was nothing to show ho had
been tended at all after being deposited there,
except a washhand basin full of water and an empty
sardine tin to drink out of, on the floor beside him.
He was a fine handsome vouno; fellow with a fair
beard, a typical Saxon, and his being abandoned like
this struck inc as unutterablx' sad.

102 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

There was a strange fascination in wandering
around, even amongst these horrors, that made me
lose count of time, so I had to make a very determined
effort in order to get back to Mailly before dark.
However, I managed it without incident and found
all my Territorial friends of the previous evening
gathered together at the cafe, where I received a
pleasing welcome.

A mess for the men had already been organized,
and considering that the proprietor and his wife had
only been back three days, it was surprising Avhat
a dinner they gave us, the more especially when one
remembered it was all made up with ordinary army
rations. We had, I remember, a " Bceuf Bourgig-
nonne " that was simply perfect.

The news in was glorious, and every one in the
highest spirits consequently. Being among all these
cheerj^ souls quite recalled my old Bohemian days in
Paris. Most of them I found were men of good
position in civil life, and the sergeant who had first
spoken to me on the previous evening turned out
to be an avocat.

Their roughness of manner and appearance was,
I soon discovered, largely "put on." Many of them,
the older ones especially, liked to pose as " poilus,"
and to fancy themselves j^outhful again because they
were in uniform. It was after all but a harmless
conceit, and did not in the least detract from the
conscientious and enthusiastic manner in which they
carried out their strenuous and often perilous duties.

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 103

Patriotism is second nature with a Frenchman,
and I was constantly being reminded of this during
the time I was at Maill}^ amongst these men, for 1
never heard a word of "grousing " from anj^ of them,
however unpleasant the weather or the work they
had to do. It was " for France," and they did not
disguise their dehght at being considered " fit "
enough to do it. I raise my hat to the Territorials !

However, to return to that night at the cafe.

As may be imagined there was any amount of
good-natured badinage going on, of which I had to
receive my share since I was accepted as one of
them. There were also some very funny yarns going
round. I recall two that are worth recounting.

On one occasion during the mobilization a party
of them were unloading sacks of forage at a small
railway siding. It was a terrifically hot afternoon
which called for a siesta rather than for arduous
labour. The sergeant had been calh.^d away for a
few hours, and had left the senior private in
charge.

The men were not long in taking advantage of
this respite from his supervision, and soon the unfortu-
nate private had all his work cut out to prevent the
men from ly ing down and going to sleep. He was a
fussy, pomp ous individual, and quite fancied himself
in bis temporary rank, bustling round, giving orders
incessantly.

Suddenly he espied a man fast asleep in a shady
corner on a heap of sacks.

104 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

" Come on — out of this; you've got to work, not
sleep," he called out.

The man opened his eyes drowsily and looked
up at him ; then seeing he was only a private like
himself, he replied tersety in the manner of Cambronne,
and calmty closed his eyes again.

" I'll soon make you get up," yelled the other,
fairly fuming with rage. " Don't you know I'm
acting sergeant ? "

" I don't care if you're acting Cyrano, I don't
intend to stir for you," replied the delinquent, settlmg
himself down more comfortably.

The other yarn was told by the sergeant-major.
It appeared that in his company at one time he had
had a middle-aged man who was particularly nervous
and unsoldierly. Thinking to rouse him up a bit
and put a little spirit into him, he had detailed him
one night for a sentry job, and sending for him
explained that he had chosen him for the duty, as
he was sure he could do it well, and then proceeded
to tell liim carefully what he would have to do in the
event of any one approaching him during the night.
That he was to call out, *' Halt ! Who goes there ? "
three times, with an interval between each challenge,
and then if the person did not reply " Friend " and
give the password, ho was to fire at him without
hesitation.

The man did not seem over-enthusiastic about it,
but said he would do his best.

During the niglit the sergeant thought he \\ ould

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 105

go and see how he was getting on. It was very dark,
and he had approached quite close without having
been observed, then suddenly the man saw him,
though of course he could not recognize who it was,
and as quick as lightning raised his rifle to his shoulder
and called out like a frightened girl as fast as he could
utter the words, " Who goes there, who goes there,
who goes there," in rapid succession, and without
giving him time to reply fired at him point blank,
only missing his head by a few inches.

After this, he did not put him on sentry duty
again.

During the evening the landlord brought up a
young fellow of about seventeen years of age, and said
that if I was thinking of cycling out to the battle-
field again the next day, here was a companion to
accompany me, as he intended riding over on his
bicycle to see what had happened to some relations
of his at Lenharree, a village some miles beyond
Sommesous. As he knew the countrv well, of course
I jumped at the chance, and we arranged to make an
early start.

CHAPTER IX

filailly to Lenharree — Skirting the battlefield— Grim reminders of warfare —
The villages of Haussimont and Vassimont — The man from Lenharree
— A grim spectacle by the roadside — In the village of Death— A
veritable vision of Hades — The two old women — Across the battlefield-
Dead hares — The bivouac of the Prussian Guards — Life-like postures
of the dead men — '" Souvenirs " for the picking up — The officer w ith
the watch bracelet — Horrors everywhere — Souvenir grabbers — The
Mayor of Lenharr6e — A gorgeous trophy.

T was a brilliantly fine morning with only

the occasional booming of a big gun in the

distance to remind one that fighting was

still going on. We took the road I had

ridden along the previous day, but just before

reaching Sommesous we made a detour in a direction

which landed us in another part of the battlefield.

The district now seemed deserted — there was not
a soul in sight. The wounded and dead had already
been taken away, but lines of primitive trenches in
the fields and sometimes along the sides of the road,
shell holes, wheel tracks of artiller}^, and smashed
trees bore eloquent witness to the desperate nature
of the fighting here.

In the brilliant sunshine these grim reminders of
^^■arfare in the quiet rural surroundings seemed
strangely unreal, and this impression was accentuated

]06

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 107

at Haussimont, the first village we came to. There
was no sign whatever of destruction here, and all
looked so peaceful that one scarcely noticed the
absence of inhabitants, as of course the place had
been evacuated. The tide of battle had somehow
missed it, while at Vassimont, only a few kilometres
further on, there were ruins on all sides.

We were now close to our destination, and the air
was so balmy and the road so delightful for cycling,
that had it not been for the gaunt smoking ruins of
a big chateau on a hillside close by, one might have
imagined oneself on a holiday jaunt. Suddenly we
saw a man in the distance coming towards us — not
an unusual sight on a country road, but as he was
the first human being we had seen for miles, it was
sufficiently remarkable for my companion to comment
on it.

He stopped on reaching us and appeared eager
to have a talk, so we dismounted. I then noticed he
was white as a ghost.

Were we going to Lenharree ? he asked ; and on
learning that was the case he told us in a faltering
voice that we should see sights there so awful that
he hardl}' dared to think of them.

The streets, he said, were full of dead — French
and German ; the burying and ambulance parties
having either overlooked the place or being too busy
elsewhere — there must be so many thousands still
to bury all ov(^r the district. There did not seem
any exaggeration in w luit lie stated, although his

108 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

appearance indicated a state of the most extreme
mental tension. We left him and rode on in silence,
my bicycling companion being evidently much
impressed by what he had heard.

Soon we came to a slight rise in the road from
which we caught sight of the village nestling in a
picturesque hollow and surmounted by a quaint old
church on a hill. A swift little stream ran noisily
through a meadow under an archway of overhanging
trees ; it would have been impossible to imagme a
more delightfully secluded or sylvan spot.

My attention was suddenly attracted by the
appearance of a French soldier in some bushes at
the side of the road ahead of us. He was apparently
waving his arm as though signalling ; close by was
another man in a reclining position.

On getting up to them and dismounting we were
horrified to discover that they were both dead, the
one in the bush having been killed as he was climbing
through. In falling back his belt had caught in a
branch, and his outstretched stiffened arm swayed
with hideous semblance to life with every puff of
wind.

I then noticed that the meadow by the stream
was literally strewn with bodies of French and
German soldiers — several also were lying in the -water.

My companion remarked in a hoarse voice that
we had better be moving, so we walked on without
comment.

On entering the village we found it was but a

-^/

KiUc

fm'

/T^

-^'^

4./^-^

i4" -n-/f

v,r,

A (;K1M AI'l'AKII ion

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 109

heap of blackened ruins, only one or two houses
intact, the rest burnt out and still smouldering ; a
weird, uncanny silence reigned over all.

As we walked through the street I felt a strange,
prickling sensation of horror come over me. The
roadway and side walk were crowded with bodies in
eveiy conceivable posture, just as they had fallen
fighting, or had been killed by the shells.

Fragments of rifles, bayonets, swords, bits of
uniforms, even shirts and boots were scattered
everywhere, as though the men in their last moments
liad tried to tear each other to pieces.

In the centre of the village was a little grassy
slope with a roadway leading to the church. There
was a fine chestnut tree there, which curiously enough
had not been touched either by fire or shell.

Underneath it on the grass was positively the
most ghastly and blood-cuidling spectacle I have
ever seen in my life, or could ever have imagined.
Never shall I forget it.

The fight had evidently been more ferocious here,
if possible, than elsewhere, and there were dozens of
bodies in the street and in the deep shadow cast by
the tree ; together with all sorts of blood-stained
weapons, kepis, and helmets.

Judging from the wildly clutching hands and the
expression on the faces, it had been a man-to-man
struggle, and no quarter given or asked. Words
failed me to describe the scene. I will not dwell on
it— it was a veritable vision of Hades.

no ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

Close by on a stretcher was a big German stripped
to the waist. He had evidently been shot dead
while his wounds were being attended to, as he had
a surgical dressing partially wound round his body.
The remains of a French officer lying near, with the
head blown off, had been reverently covered with an
overcoat— perhaps by some comrade. I got out
my sketch-book, but felt it was almost a sacrilege to
make a sketch among all these brave, dead warriors.

The village had seemed deserted at first, but to
my surprise we came across two very old women in
what remained of a house. One wondered how they
could have returned to such a place. They had
actually to step over a corpse to get inside the door.
I am not " nervy," but I fancy nothing would have
induced me to spend a night in such surroundings.

One of the women was engaged in some ordinary^
household occupation as calmly as though everything
around her was quite normal. I stopped and made
some remark to her about the hideous sights in the
village.

" You have only seen a little of it all," she told
me. " Go up and have a look at the back of the
church."

She was right — ^we had only seen a small propor-
tion of the horrors.

In and around the picturesque little graveyard
bodies were lying in heaps. The French had en-
trenched themselves in the fields just beyond, and the
Germans had lost heavily in trying to rush the

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 111

position. The ground was torn up by shell fire, and
the church itself was much damaged.

In the corner of a smiling little meadow close by
a party of four French non-commissioned officers
had been eating a meal, when a shell had burst in
their midst, leaving nothing but a confused mass of
blue uniform and mangled flesh. The sight was so
terrible that we could only glance at it for an instant.

My companion suggested our going across the
battlefield to where the German position had been,
about a mile awa^^ It was a relief to get out into
the solitude of the open country^ for a short respite
from the scenes in the village, but it was very rough
walking, as the ground was pitted with shell holes
every'where, a curious fact emphasizing the in-
tensity of the shell fire being the number of dead
hares lyin^ about.

The Germans in their retreat had abandoned
many guns and their emplacements filled with un-
discharged shells, standing ready in the wicker
basket holders used for conveying the ammunition.

" Souvenirs " were to be had for the picking up,
and although I knew what an encumbrance anything
of the sort would be on my bicycle, I could not
resist the temptation of making a collection of odds
and ends ; amongst others a fine, brand-new JMauser
repeating pistol with a leather holster.

My companion had not the collector's tempera-
ment, and his notion of a " souvenir " took the
utilitarian form of a pair of good substantial German

112 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

boots to fit him, and he eventually found a pair,
\A'hich he told me he had exchanged for those he was
wearing.

Hundreds of dead Germans of the Prussian
Guard lay here and there in the undergrowth in the
woods — huge fellows most of them, and at first sight
they almost appeared to be sitting talking, or lying
on the ground asleep, so natural were their attitudes.

On the fringe of the wood facing the French
positions were many hastily improvised rifle-pits,
evidently for the crack shots of the regiment, as the
range must have been nearly two thousand yards.

In some of these shallow holes dead men were
lying prone, rifle at shoulder, as though in the act of
taking a long-distance shot, their postures being so
life-like that one almost hesitated to walk in front
of them. They had been killed evidently instan-
taneously, and without any outward sign of injury.
One had almost the impression of looking at a
waxwork show.

There had been many rumours going round for
days previously that the French were using a shell
containing " turpinite," a mysterious explosive, of
terrific power, that killed eveiything without wound-
ing within a big radius of its explosion by shock only,
and this awful spectacle seemed to give emphasis to
the rumours.

The shell-fire had apparently surprised the
Prussians in the midst of a bivouac, for the ground
was strewn with all manner of hand-baggage, and

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 113

where the officers had been this was frequently of a
most elaborate and luxurious character — dressing-
cases with sUver -mounted fittings and full of personal
belongings and letters, photographs in frames,
thermos flasks, and what-not. But it had rained
heavily during the night and everything was sodden
and very pitiful to look upon.

I had been hunting round for a rifle in good
condition and a helmet to take away, when I espied
an officer with the veiy sort of " pickelhaube " I
wanted.

He was a giant of a man with gold-rimmed
spectacles over wide-staring eyes that seemed to
defy me to touch him, but I relieved him of his
helmet all the same. On his wrist he had an elegant
gold watch bracelet set in diamonds ; to have taken
this would have, of course, amounted to "looting;"
but the thought, I remember, struck me afterwards
that in all probability the fellow had stolen it from
some unfortunate French lady, and perhaps I ought
to have taken it and handed it over to the Military-
Police Commandant.

We made our way back to the village by a detour
to endeavour to avoid the gruesome sights round
the church again, but only to And that the horrors
were evervwherc.

On the straw of a barn whicli had escaped
destruction \\as an improvised flist-aid dressin"
station ; half a dozen French soldiers lay there. At
first siglit they also appeared to be alive, their

114 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

bandages looked so white and their uniforms
so unsoiled, but a glance at their faces was
sufficient.

We were indeed in a village of Death.

« • • ■ •

During the afternoon an infantry regiment
arrived to commence burying operations, and several
squadrons of hussars to bar all access to the district
and the battlefield.

It was advisable not to be found within the
cordon that the cavalry began at once to di'aw round
the area, as civilians, and especially strangers, were
certain to be suspect and liable to be detained. My
companion had, perhaps, a legitimate cause for
being there, but I could only plead morbid curiosity.
It was better, therefore, to take no risks and get away
as soon as possible.

Both our bicycles were pretty well loaded up by
now with mementos of our excursion, and we had
to stop when we got outside the village to fasten
them on securely. While doing so we were joined
by quite a band of young fellows, also riding bicycles,
and who were going in our direction. Where they
had come from I could not ascertain, but several of
them had bulky sacks containing " souvenirs " on
their handle-bars. One of them in particular had a
bundle of peculiar shape which led to a somewhat
amusing incident.

A little way along the road we saw a carriage
coming towards us, and in it were two gentlemen

ON THE PATH 01 ADVENTURE 115

dressed in black and wearing tall hats. The vehicle
stopped as we got up to it, and one of the occupants
made signs for us to halt.

It then turned out that this was the Mayor of
Lenharree and his adjoint. They began asking a lot
of questions as to the state of affairs in the village,
and for obvious reasons I thought it as well not to
be mixed up in the conversation, or rather cross-
examination, as it seemed likely to be, so unob-
trusively moved away a few yards.

After a few moments the bundles of " souvenirs "
appeared to attract the attention of the mayor, and
he evidently wanted to know more of their contents
than Avas pleasant to the possessors, with the result
that several names were taken down.

Then the adjoint espied the curiously shaped
package I have referred to. This at his request was
handed over and opened, when it was found to contain
a magnificent silver helmet, surmounted by a gilt
eagle, truly a gorgeous trophy. The mayor took it and
examined it closely for some moments, then turned
pompously to the young fellow in whose possession
it had been and said with magisterial decision —

" Mon jcune ami, I cannot permit you to retain
this ; it must remain in the keeping of the munici-
pality of Lenharree for the present." And suiting
action to the words, he rolled it up in the sack again,
placed it between his feet in the carriage and ordered
the coachman to drive on.

CHAPTER X

111 Mailly — The two " niouchards " — Another prowl across the battlelields
— The Champagne Pouilleuse — Signiticaut heaps of uniforms — The
kSoHtude — Recalhng the Australian bush — Lost on the battlefield —
My territorial friends' encampment — I accept invitation to stay night
— The pot-au-feu — Twelve men in tent — A wet night — Awakened by
heav}' gunfire — The bombardment of Rheims— The blazing cathedral
—A " gardening job " — Tide of battle receding from Mailly — The
original scheme of German advance in this direction — The wonderful
stoicism of the French peasant women — With the fugitives from the
villages — A harrowing incident — The battalions Sanitaires — I return
to Troyes — I sketch my friend the commissaire — A sauf conduit to
Rheims — I leave for Chalons.

■^HAT evening at dinner two civilians I had

not previously seen turned up and sat

next to me, whether intentionally or not

I could not make out ; anj^how, as was

only natural, we got into conversation. They were

of quite ordinary appearance, over the military age,

and I put them down as engaged on some Government

work.

Soon a word or two they let slip made me smell a

rat, and put me on my guard at once, and sure

enough they turned out to be detectives — " mou-

chards " — who were detailed specially to entrap

looters and battlefield ghouls. They remained some

days in Mailly, and during that time we became

ON THE PAIH OF ADVENTURE 117

quite friendh', and gradually they told me a lot
about their dangerous job.

Our meeting was particularly fortunate for me,
curiously enough, as before the^^ left one of tliem
gave me his card and said that if I ever happened
to be in Rheims I should generally find him at the
address he had written on it, which was that of a
brasserie in one of the principal streets, adding that
if he happened to be away, and I gave the landlord
his card, I would always be given a room and the
best of food and wine at "police " prices, as this was
one of their rendezvous, and was kept by an ex-
sergeant of the detective force.

Although I had no intention at the time of
going to Rheims, I put the card by carefully, and as
it turned out it was lucky for me I did so, as it
afterwards proved useful.

The foUowinpf dav I was obsessed bv a morbid
impulse to have another prowl across the battlefield,
so started oif by myself after dejeuner. I hiked out
af'ain till I came within sio;ht of Sommesous and
then wandered into the direction of the area known
as the Champagne-Pouilleuse — a wide expanse of
countrs^ the soil of which is too poor to be of an}'
use either agriculturally or for vineyard growing.

Here the fighting had evidently been more
scattered and the evidences of warfare not so frequent,
although I came across several abandoned guns in
emplacements, with shells neatly stacked around,
and a xQiy ingenious portable observation i^ost in

118 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

the form of a tall galvanized iron ladder with a
platform on top, mounted on a sort of trolley.

Here and there I discerned amongst the low
shrubs that dotted the ground on all sides, some
significant heaps of what at first sight appeared to
be discarded uniforms, but on closer inspection
afforded proof that the burydng parties had not yet
operated here, or had carried out their duty in-
efficiently.

There was something uncannily impressive in
the calm that reigned in the solitude here, recalling
to me somehow the Australian bush.

Wheeling my bicycle and wandering on aimlessly,
I took no notice of where I was going, and when at
length I looked at m}' watch and saw it was time to
retrace my footsteps, it suddenly dawned on me
that I had lost mv bearino;s and was uncertain which
direction would lead me back to the road again.

Here was a ridiculous fix to be in — lost on the
battlefield ; what a story it would make ; and to add
to my plight it was beginning to rain and looked
like setting in for a wet night.

I plodded on for some distance, chancing to luck
in finding my way, and feeling very annoyed at having
forgotten the first precept I had learned wheji in
Western Australia : Never to leave the road and go
into the Bush unless 3'ou make certain of your
bearings beforehand. It had been rather late in the
afternoon when I started and it was now getting
near dusk, and I began to have visions of sleeping

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 119

in the open, when I saw a light in the distance. It
was some Uttle way off, but it reassured me, as I knew
it meant that there were human beings there who
could direct me.

On getting nearer I saw it came from a large
bell tent at the commencement of a cutting on the
railway line, and to my pleasant surprise I found
the tent was occupied by some of my " Territorial
friends."

I could see they were genuinely pleased at my
turning up, and laughed heartily when they learned
how I had got " lost," and such a short distance
away. They insisted on my remaining the night
with them, and as it was still raining I accepted
their genial invitation without hesitation.

There was a mar mite boiling on a cheery fire
close by, and soon we were having a really excellent
pot au feu for supper, one of the party being quite a
chef in his wav. This was washed down with some
of the Mailly vin gris, and we finished up with black
coffee as only a Frenchman can make it. Only a
Frenchman, too, who could have made such a pot au
feu out of iirmy rations.

After supper many of the men had to go on duty ,
and I could not help noticing how wonderfully
cheery they were as they got ready to start, although
it meant many hours out in the rain on the exposed
part of the line.

Then the i-olieved guard came in, dripping wet
and looking cold and tired, }et even they had

120 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

hnmoroiis remarks ready to let off at their comi^ades.
and there was no sign of depression or grinnbling at
the weather, as they fell to hungrily on their well-
earned meal.

It was some years since I had last slept in a tent,
and I did not quite look forward to this experience,
and the more especially as there were a dozen men
to share it with ; but by the time preparations had
been made for turning in I felt so tired that I could
have slept on a telegraph wire. The floor of the tent
was covered with a thick layer of strawy and there
was a blanket for me to roll myself up in, so it was
fairly comfortable and I was soon sleeping like a log.

I was awakened by what at first I took to be a
terrific thunderstorm, and the rain pouring on the
canvas added to the illusion ; but in a few seconds I
realized it was not thunder but the crashing of
artillery, and that a heavy bombardment was taking
place a little distance away, the flashes of the guns
giving the impression of continuous lightning.

Then gradually a glare as from an immense fire
lit up the interior of the tent. My companions were
now all aroused and opinions were being exchanged
as to whence it proceeded, when the sergeant opened
the flap of the tent and came in and told us the
Germans were bombarding Rheims, and that the
glare was from fires that had started there. As a
matter of fact, as one learned later, it was the blazing
tower of the cathedral that lit up the sky that night.

Sleep was almost impossible after this, and I

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 121

only managed to doze fitfully until daybreak, when
the rain having ceased I got up and had a sluice in
cold water and a stroll round while some one got some
coffee ready.

While we were having it two men came back from
duty, and as they took off their accoutrements one of
them remarked casually to the men who were suc-
ceeding them : " There is a little gardening job for
3^ou fellows over there," pointing in a certain direction,
and proceeded to give exact details as to locality.
1'he others said simply that they would see to it, and
went and fetched shovels which they took out with
them.

Somewhat mystified, I asked what he meant by
" a gardening job " ? and learned that it was his
delicate way of saying there were two dead Germans
to plant. I asked if I might accompany them and
witness the burial; and the reverence with which the
ceremony was conducted was in marked contrast with
the flippancy of the conversation leading up to it.

In recalling my souvenirs of those early days of
the Great Struggle, I find it hard to realize it was
part of the same war as that just ended. Every-
thin<>: was so novel then, and so much more
]jictur(\sque. It was la Grande Guerre truly, but T
was always being reminded of the paintings of de
Neuville or Dctaille — possibly to no small extent
])ecause the red trousers, the blue overcoats, and the
kepis had not yet been replaced by tin helmets and
horizon blue.

122 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

There was certainly no lack of subjects in and
around Mailly, and naturally enough I enjoyed the
freedom of movement that was almost bewildering
after my previous unpleasant experiences. I felt I
had fallen among friends, even to the gendarmes, who
always saluted me politety when they met me on
the road.

Mailly, interesting though it was, was now little
more thaii an incident in the terrific battle of the
Marne, and was already passing into history as the
tide of battle receded from this quarter.

Still to me it presented a study of poignant
interest, and whenever I had a few moments to
spare from my work, I would cycle up to the famous
camping ground and endeavour to visualize those
fateful hours when the advance of the Germans was
on the eve of being definitely stopped. Their scheme
had been undoubtedly to turn the right wing of the
Anglo-French army by an advancing force via
Compiegne.

This proving impracticable, the only alternative
consistent with the movement was to pass through
Mailly, and this was evidently decided on at once, in
spite of its hazardous nature, for Mailly is famous
throughout France as an artilleiy training area, and
to the veriest tyro of the German staff officer it must
have been obvious that every yard of it was familiar
to almost every French artillery officer. As a matter
of fact, the very distances for practice always formed
part and parcel of the annual artillery manoeuvres.

ON THE PATti OF ADVENTURE 123

and sham fights were constantly takijig i^lace
here.

It would, therefore, have been impossible for a
battle to have been fought under more unique
conditions of advantage to the French commander.
Yet, in spite of all this, or perhaps with the boundless
confidence in himself so characteristic of the Hun,
the advance on Mailly was undertaken.

It is, of course, possible that the German general
mav have thought that since he had succeeded in
passing through the " camps " of Chalons and
8isonne that of IMailly was not worth seriously taking
into consideration. If so he reckoned without his
host, for this time he had overstepped the limits
of discretion, and Mailly marks the extreme point
of the German advance in this direction.

The French commander was not caught napping.
The twenty-first Corps d'Armee, which knew the
ground thorouglilv, having frequently done its annual
traijiing in the locality, was despatched from Nancy,
Toul, and Chaumont to check the movement. It was
somehow delayed six hours on the road, a respite
which enabled the Germans to occupy the village
for a few hours, and to entrench themselves in tlio
area of the " camp " itself, but their success was
short-lived.

Pushing forward without pause via Kemerupt
and the left side of the valley of Huitrelle, the batteries
of the famous 60th and 75tli Regiments of artillery
at length got into touch with the invaders. 'J'he

J24 ON IHE PATH OF ADVENTURE

issue then was never for a moment in doubt. Eound
the farms of Peinbreaux and de Nivelletsthe slaughter
was absolutely terrific, for so unexpected was the
arrival of the French that the Germans were actually
taking it easy — eating, playing cards, or writing
letters in the trenches.

Mailly-le-Camp had indeed upheld its reputation
as an artiJlerv trainin<z area.

NoAv all was once again quiet, if not exactly
peaceful in the region. The Germans were retreating
towards the Aisne, and for the moment Pheims was
the centre of interest. The range of action covered
by my sauf conduit was therefore becoming of less
service to me, since my one and only idea was to be
as near the scene of operations as possible, and there
was no one here who had the power to extend it.

A great change had gradually come over Mailly
since my arrival on that eventful night. Tlie
villagers were beginning to return almost daily,
whilst the attempts were actually being made to
patch up and render habitable some of the less-
d am aged houses, and the long processions of refugee
peasants passing along the highway were now^
returning, and presented a wonderful spectacle of
philosophic imperturbation — the women especially.

If I were asked what impressed me most whilst
wandering with my sketch-book round about the
country within the zone of the battlefields of the
Marne, I should unhesitatingly reply, the wonderful
and undemonstrative fortitude displayed by the

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OxN^ THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 125

women of tlie small towns and villages under
conditions of inconceivable misery and helplessness.

A national trait more poignant in its intensit\'
than any hysteric weeping and wailing had again
come to the fore after tying dormant since 1871. It
was the stoicism of the Spartans revived — silent and
uncomplaining — accepting without murmur the
cruellest blows of Fate,

The separation from their loved ones — father,
husband, son or brother, on the da}^ of the mobili-
zation, had to be perforce borne with resignation;
but the compulsory exodus from the homes and the
weary pilgrimage to districts distant from the
German peril came as quite unexpected, and therefore
additional, hardship to the already distraught women,
and under the stress of which tears and lamentations
would have been pardonable.

More honour, therefore, to the stout-hearted
French peasant women for bearing up so bravely
and hiding their grief, and so in no small degree
helping to allay the fears of the younger folk.

While I was staying in Mailly, I had many oppor-
tunities of observing all this for myself, for I \\ ould
often trudge along with them for the purpose of
having a talk. The tide of battle had turned and
the danger of })ermanent German occupation
was averted. Foi- days there A\as a,n endless
procession passing along the roads, of fugitives
makin*!; their \\^\ back slowlv and Mcarilv to
villages from Mliich tlu;^' had been driven a few

126 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

weeks previously. There were whole families of
peasants — old men, women, and children, and an}^-
thing more pathetic than this defile of country-folk
it would have been impossible to imagine.

With the fear in their minds that their return to
their homes was but a doubtful contingency, and
that even if they ever did get back it would only be
to find devastation everywhere, they had taken
away with them in their flight everything that they
cherished, and now thej^ were returning along the
same war-worn roads with everything, that could
be packed or stowed anyhow on the waggons, or in
whatever vehicle they might possess, even young
calves and crates of poultry ; while ensconced in the
midst of this conglomeration of household belongings
were grandfather and grandmother, and all the
womenfolk and children.

Alongside, trudging through the mud, were the
poorer people with their children in perambulators,
or trundling their humble goods and chattels on
handbarrows, trucks, or anything in fact running on
wheels.

I saw one woman pushing along a perambulator
packed high with bedding, on the top of which was
a cage of canaries, by her side a little girl carried a
kitten, and close at their heels were their two dogs.

Old men, leaning heavily on stout sticks, staggered
along under the weight of the heavy bundles on their
shoulders, and bicycles were to be seen everywhere, no
family seemed to be without at least one; if they

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 127

were not being ridden they were hung on to the
waggons. I counted five on one cart alone.

Many girls, bedraggled and mud-splashed, were
wheeling their machines.

The trek was towards home, but nevertheless
made as melancholy a spectacle as could well be
imagined ; yet the women bore up with a resignation
that was little short of marvellous, and which one
could not fail to observe.

Although glad enough to be returning to their
villages, they told you they were dreading almost
what was awaiting them after all they had heard ; but
it was so difficult to ascertain anything for certain —
all they were told was that the Germans had been
driven back, and that was why they were allowed to
return to their villages.

I never cared to inquire which villages they
were bound for, in case I happened to know the
condition the Germans had left them in. Sufficient,
indeed, for the moment that they were making their
wa\^ back, very slowly certainly, for it was a long
wa3% and the poor faithful beasts in the shafts of
the cumbersome waggons were sore tried with their
heavy loads.

To watch the almost endless defile of vehicles
aiid unkempt throng of people dragging its weary
way along the muddy road, was indeed an object-
lesson of the horrors of the war, and of the extent of
suffering it was entailing on the women and children.
Of course each one did his best to help alleviate

128 ON THE PATM OF ADVENTUEE

the tribulation of those in want of assistance, but
there were so many. In all the towns and villages,
even along the road, kind hearts were always ready
to do all they could for the mothers, and provide
them with milk for the babies and food for the older
children.

The barns, granges, schoolrooms, and even the
churches w^ere utilized as shelters, and filled with
clean, sweet- smelling hay and straw.

But in spite of all this the suffering w^as intense,
and with it was the added anxiet}^ as to the safety
of the dear ones at the front. " I have not had a
line from him since he left, nearly two months ago,"
is what you were constantly hearing, and it made
vour heart bleed, for too often no news meant bad
news, and the poor women realized this while
buoying themselves up with hope.

I remember an instance of one young A^oman
who had the courage to send a reply-paid telegram
to the War Minister, asking for news of her husband,
and shortly afterwards receiving the welcome in-
telligence of his whereabouts and of his well-being.
But there were not many who would risk this. In
too many eases they were the happier for living for
a time in blissful ignorance.

Not the least of the terrors stalking the land
these sad davs were the manv instances of members
of f amihes getting separated and lost in the dreadful
moments of confusion when escaping pell-mell from
the advancing German hordes.

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 129

If it happened, perchance, to be a young and good-
looking woman who was " missing," the anguish and
suspense were infinitely increased, for it had not
taken long to learn what was likely to become of
such a victim fallen into the clutches of the Hun.
Death would be more merciful than her certain fate.

Many were the heart-rending tales of outrage and
infamy I heard as I tramped along the dusty roads
with the unfortunate fugitives.

It has often been said that the strength of France
lies in the character of her peasantry, and I was
constantly being reminded of this in those black
days when the fate of the nation hung in the balance.

One might have quite expected to hear on all
sides, ho^^ls of execration against the Afne damnee
of Potsdam who was answerable for all this untold
miser}^ and suffering ; but instead there was ap-
parently a calm resignation, which foreboded more
to the hated Boche than all vituperation.

Still there is a certain limit to human fortitude,
and I learned of several unutterably sad cases of
suicide, where minds had given way under stress of
grief and trial beyond endurance.

One instance of this I witnessed myself, and it
will never be effaced from my memoiy. It was
certainly one of the most pathetic and tragical
incidents I came across even in those da^'s, replete
with tragedy and pathos.

One afternoon I Avas plodding along wheeling my
bicycle with one of the processions of weary fun;itives.

130 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

It was very hot and sultry, and there was not much
talMng ; children were sleeping peacefully in their
mothers' arms and the silence was unbroken save for
the occasional creaking of a heavily laden waggon and
the continuous rumble of wheels on the dusty road.

Suddenly in the distance we heard hoarse
shouting, and looking back saw a wild-looking,
unkempt man racing towards us. When he caught
us up his appearance was positively terrible.

He was a good-looking man but he was so covered
with dirt and dust from head to foot that one could
only surmise his age. In his eyes was the wild look
of terror of a hunted animal, and he was evidently
in the last stage of physical exhaustion.

Without pausing he rushed madly along the line
of vehicles, peering into every waggon as though in
search of some one, and every few yards calling out
despairingly a woman's name.

Murmurs of mingled horror and commiseration
were heard on all sides, when it was seen that the
poor fellow was demented.

But he took no notice of any one, nor did he
appear to know where he was. When at length he
reached the head of the long procession and realized
that the object of his quest was not there, he made
for the side of the road and flinging himself down on
a heap of stones buried his face in his hands and
bursting into tears called out passionately —

" Mon Dieu, mon Dieu, que vais-je faire ? Ma
pauvre cherie, ou es-tu — on es-tu ? "

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 131

Then he started up wildly and a haggard look of
demoniacal furj^ came over his face as he vociferated
at the top of his voice —

" Oh, les Scelerats — les sales Boches — s'ils t'ont
prise ! " and rushing at a tree he seized it with both
hands and gripped it with mad rage for some moments
as though he were strangling some one.

Then came the reaction, and he sank to the ground
exhausted and whimpering like a beaten child. It
was a dreadful spectacle and brought a lump into
one's throat.

The waggons were stopped and a crowd of
sympathetic peasants gathered round, gazing in
awestruck silence at the grief-stricken, recumbent
figure.

Some one then began trying gently to question
the poor fellow, and gradually he became more lucid
and we managed to learn through his disjointed
phrases that he was from some village in Luxemburg.

We gathered that when it had become known
that the Huns were approaching, there had been a
wild stampede of the villagers to get away, and
somehow in the confusion he had got separated
from his wife, who was so — so beautiful ! he kept
on repeating : and he had not set eyes on her since.

He had been told that it was thought she had
been taken by some neighbours in their waggon, but
no one seemed to know for certain, nor in which
direction they had gone, and so he had been looking
for her everywhere since.

132 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

Then his madness suddenly returned, and he
began to shriek with frenzy that perhaps the Boche
had captured her, and he must save her at all costs,
and jumping up he started running away up the
road, waving his arms frantically.

We all stood in silence watching the retreating
figure till it had disappeared round a corner, then an
old woman remarked hoarsely, " Voila ce que c'est
que la guerre," and there were low mutterings as
every one returned to their waggons, and the women
appeared to hold their children still more closely to
their breasts.

The denouement was as tragic as anything one
could conceive.

The following day I was cycling along a quiet
road when I saw ahead of me a military motor-lorry
drawn up, and close by a little group of soldiers.

On approaching the spot I perceived what
appeared at first sight to be a heap of dusty rags
lying on the ground just behind the lorry, and to
my horror on a nearer inspection I saw it was the
lifeless body of the poor demented individual of the
previous day.

It appeared from the statement of the driver
that he was going at quite a reasonable pace, when
the man, who must have been concealed in the
bushes, rushed out into the middle of the roadway
holding up his hand and shouting incoherently.

It happened so suddenly that before he had had
time to jam on his break, the heavj^ vehicle had

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 133

knocked down the unfortunate fellow and passed
right over him. Death must have been instantaneous.
But to resume mv narrative.

The gruesome scenes I have described in the
previous chapter of the dead remaining unburied for
days in villages, fields and woods after the battle of
the Marne were not to recur.

A special contingent of infantry was organized,
hataillons Sanitaires I believe they were named,
whose sole duties were to consist in following the
army and thoroughly searching the battlefield and
clearing it up. And these duties w^ere to be carried
out in so methodical a manner that it would be
almost impossible for any wounded or dead to
remain undiscovered many hours.

A commencement was to be made at once, and
the entire area as far as Epernay was arranged in
sections, and detachments of soldiers allotted to
each. The column was to be accompanied by
gendarmes on horseback and on bicycles, as there
w^ere some ugly stories going around of i-obber}' of
the dead. The officer in command had power to
order the summary execution of any suspicious
character on or near the battlefield.

The column rendezvoused at Mailly, and pre-
sented quite the appearance of a little expeditionary
force. 1 tried veiy hard to get permission to
accompany it, as I was anxious to make a move in
the direction of Rheims, and Epernay would be a
big step on the way ; but the colonel in command was

134 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

not to be persuaded to allow a civilian to go with him,
so I had to give up the idea.

There was nothing for it, therefore, but to return
to Troj^es and try my luck again with my friend the
commissaire.

It was with quite a feeling of discontent that I
decided I must leave Mailly, as I had spent some
very pleasant days there, made several good friends,
and above all had got an invaluable insight of the
moral of the French peasantry in the war zone in the
hour of their trial. I had the pleasing impression
also that there was some little regret felt at my
departure.

The victory of the Marne had brought about no
untoward change in the life of Troyes, except perhaps
that it appeared less congested with troops, though
the hotels were still crowded I found, so I congratu"
lated myself on having kept on my room whilst I
was away. As may be imagined, the contrast in the
life here with that in Mailly — in cleanliness and
quality of food particularly, w^as most marked; but
I nevertheless found myself at times wishing I could
go through my first experiences there again, in spite
of the hardship and discomfort.

The Commissaire of Police seemed so pleased to
see me back that I invited him to lunch with me,
which he did, and he was much interested in my
experiences, the more especially as I reminded him
that it was entirely through his help that I had been
able to get through.

M. 1, 10 (OIONKI.

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 135

This, of course, led up to some question of where
I now proposed wending my way, so I threw out the
hint that perhaps, since his signature was good
enough to get me to the battlefield of the Mame, it
might have equal effect in the direction of Rheims.

To which he replied he was quite willing to give
it me afresh if I had an idea it might be of assistance
but that he veiy much doubted whether the military
would let me through, as Rheims was very strictly
barred to civilians at that moment.

I said I would risk it, so there I was fixed up
again for another " expedition," and as some small
recognition of his kindness I suggested after dinner
his sitting to me for a little sketch portrait, which he
might send to his wife, who was not at the time
living in Troyes. To this he gladly assented, so we
adjourned to his office and while smoking a cigar I
was lucky enough to get a good likeness of him.
The following afternoon, with a sauf conduit to
Rheims et retour in my pocket, I took the train to
Chalons, where I should have to spend the night,
from there go on to Epernay, and then try my luck
at getting into Rheims.

CHAPTER XI

Arrive Chfi,lon8 — The old working man — Pathetic little incident — The hotel
de la Haute Mere Dieu — An inexplicable incident — A little contre-
temps of the usual sort — An unpremeditated bluff on the gendarmes
comes off — From Chalons to Iilpemay — The difficulty to find a
room — Souvenirs of the Hun occupation — A wine- bibbing incident —
" Kultur " — Harvesting the grapes within sight of the troops — The
principal cafe in Epemay — Another " incident " — My friend of the
train des Equipages — The Commandant d'Armea — Am given a military
laisser passer — With the Transport Convoy — I make a theatrical
change in my appearance — The distributing depot — The waggon-load
of Backs — Into civilian attire again — Arrive Rheims — The Brasserie
in the Rue Chanzy.

^ALTHOUGH only a comparatively short

/^ distance it took hours to get to Chalons,

/ %^ and it was one o'clock in the morning

when we arrived.

The station is a long way from the centre of the

town, but I did not know it then and I had not the

slightest idea where to go to look for a room, and

there was no one about at that hour of the night to

ask. I walked to the corner of what appeared to be

the main road, and was wondering which direction

to take, when I chanced upon an old man who looked

like a working-man slouching along with his collar

turned up and his hands buried deep in his

pockets.

13S

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 137

I stopped him and asked where I could get a bed,
but he rcpHed that he was in the same fix as me,
and didn't know what to do. He had, he said, just
been to the municipal night shelter for which he had
a ticket, but it was closed, so he supposed there was
nothing for him but to walk about till daylight.

The centre of the town, he added, was about a
mile and a half away, perhaps I could get a lodging
there, but it would be very dear. He then sug-
gested, very politely, carrying my rucksack and
showing me the way, so we walked on together.

Something in the old feUow interested me, he
looked so hopelessly despondent, and as we went along
I managed to " draw him out."

It appeared he was seventy-five years of age, a
peasant of one of the villages bombarded by the
Germans, and his wife had been killed by the shell
that had destroyed his cottage. Now he was trying
to make his way to Meaux near Paris, where his
daughter lived. But it was a very long way to walk,
especially when one was old and had no money.
He had lost everything he had got in the world, but
he was not going to beg ; he would rather finish with
it in the river than that.

I knew from all I had already seen that his case
was but one amongst thousands who were suffering
through the war, but somehow this poor old man,
all alone and penniless through no fault of his own,
stranded in the middle of the night in a strange
town, struck me as beinir unutteiablv sad. I felt

138 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

a lump in my throat and I could find nothing
to say.

At last we reached the centre of the town and he
stopped, and handing me my bag pointed up a street
where he thought I might perhaps find a lodging.

"And wliere are you going ? " I asked.

" Je n'en sais rien ! " with a shrug of his shoulders.
" I shall continue to walk," he replied quietly. " I
cannot afford a bed."

" Yes, you can," I said.

" How do you know ? " he retorted somewhat
sharply.

*' Because I am going to give you five francs to
get one and to help you along a bit on your way to-

morrow."

" You are going to give me five francs, monsieur,"
he repeated in astonishment. " What for ? I have
done nothing to earn it."

" Yes, you have ; you have carried my bag and
shown me the way here, and you are a brave old
Frenchman ; " and suiting action to words I thrust
the coin into his hand.

I saw a tear roll down his furrowed cheek as he
stammered hoarsely : " Je ne sais pas comment vous
remercier, monsieur ; " and I hurried away.

There were two hotels, side by side, the Renard
and the Haute Mere Dieu, both very ancient and
famous hostelries. At the first they were complet,
but at the second I was just in time to get the last
unoccupied room.

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 139

The following morning, as I made my way down-
stairs, something happened so mystifying and so in-
explicable that I shall ever retain it in my memory.
The hotel is, as I have said, a very old house and
dates back several hundreds of years probably. I
had never in my life been in or anj^where near Chalons
before. But as soon as I left my room, which was on
the third floor, the whole place seemed quite familiar
to me in the daylight, and I had the strange feeling
of having been there before at some remote period
of another existence.

Then on one of the landings I saw facing me a
dimly lighted corridor that I quite remembered, and
I knew that at the end of it just round the corner was
a very tall eight-day clock, and a little beyond a
narrow flight of stairs going up into a gloomy
passage.

It must be a phantasy, I thought, but nevertheless
I felt impelled to go and see ; and sure enough
there it all w as exactly as I had thought ! Luckily
the hotel was very quiet and none of the maids
about at the moment, or I fancy they would have been
a bit suspicious had they seen me standing there quite
transfixed with amazement.

1 returned to the hotel during the day, specially
to come to this spot, and my impression was as vivid
as before — as in fact it was when I stayed there on a
subsequent occasion. I am not a believer in the
supernatural, but I must admit that incident has
always completely mystified me and I leave the

140 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

explanation of it to those -who have made a study of
such phenomena.

Chalons Avas full of troops and there was consider-
ably more movement than at any place I had as yet
visited in the war zone. The Germans had only just
evacuated the town, and had looted anything of any
value to them in the shops, with the result that such
luxuries as tobacco, cigarettes, matches, to say noth-
ing of everyday necessities, were quite non-existent.

Many of the private houses had been " burgled "
in quite professional style, and the marks of "jemmies"
were to be seen on doors everywhere. Otherwise no
material damage had been done in the town; but
the canal outside had been emptied and presented a
curious appearance, as of a broad deserted road
inches deep in liquid mud.

There was nothing to do in Chalons and nothing
to see beyond its busy main street, and as I wanted
to get on to ^pernay as soon as possible, I decided to
leave that same afternoon.

Of course, in a town of such military importance
and so completely occupied by troops and containing
but a mere sprinkling as it were of civilians, it was
only natural that as a stranger of un-French appear-
ance, I attracted a certain amount of notice. In
fact, I could not fail to remark this during the first
stroll I took down the crowded main street, for it
was a Sunday and there were probably more flaneurs
than there would have been on a week-day.

After an hour or so, this attention became so

THK I.ATKSr cn.MMn.NK.H'K A SKKH II IN KI'INAI.

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 141

embarrassing that at length I became convinced that
something unpleasant would happen unless I hurried
up my departure, or at any rate did not show myself
too much until it was time to leave ; so I returned to
my hotel to make my preparations. But I was not
to get away from Chalons without an " incident "
of sorts.

I was now so accustomed to these little contre-
temps that I should have probably not remembered
it at all, nor would it be worth recounting, had it not
been for the somewhat curious way it ended.

As far as I was concerned, it was a triumph of
what I might term unpremeditated " blujBf," in which
I certainly scored. It came about in this wise.

I had not taken long to realize that when on the
road it was always advisable to guard against acci-
dents by providing myself with food and drink, so
I never started on an excursion, however short,
without some sort of provender in my haversack.
It was probable that every officer had determined
upon a like precaution, as I found in Chalons it \\as
no easy matter to obtain anything in the shape of
cold meat or sausages, the few shops that sold such
comestibles being " sold out " in a very short time
after opening, while tinned rations were completely
unobtainable anywhere in the town.

There was quite a crowd in the only charciUiers
in the main street, attracted doubtless b^' a modest
displax' of galanline.

I was fortunate enough, after pushing my way in.

142 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

to obtain a share of the small quantity remaining of
the coveted delicacy, and as it was being put up in
paper, a man who appeared to be edging next to me
for some time remarked, " Ca m'a Fair d'etre tres
bon ; " adding, " Monsieur va en voyage ? "

Under ordinary circumstances I should barely
have noticed his remark, or might have replied in
jocular vein ; but somehow, just then, I experienced
the unpleasant sensation that this was a part of the
" surveillance " to which I had a very shrewd notion
I had been subjected all the morning, so for all
reply I gave a sort of grunt, which might signif}^
" yes " or " no " as he chose to take it, and inconti-
nently left the place.

I then went round to an unpretentious little
rnarchand de vins to get half a litre of white wine to
take with me. The place was pretty full, so I had
to wait my turn, and whilst standing at the counter,
I noticed two gendarmes come in and seat themselves
at one of the tables.

As I was strolling back to the hotel, which was
close by, I saw people on the opposite side of the
street stop and look across as though interested in
something behind me, and looking back I found the
two gendarmes close at my heels. I sauntered along
as unconcernedly as was possible under the circum-
stances, and when I reached the hotel, walked straight
in under the porte-cochere and up to my room without
pausing.

My window faced the street and I looked out to

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 143

see what had become of my two followers. They
were waiting on the pavement, and to my surprise
there was quite a little crowd of people in the roadway
and more were arriving. Word had probably gone
round that something interesting was about to happen.
Fortunatety I had plenty of time to spare, so it
did not much matter whether I remained in my
room and read a book or went out.

After about a quarter of an hour I had another
look. The people were still waiting.

There was nothing to be gained by not going
down ; I had to see it through anyway, and I might
miss my train if I left it too long. Moreover, I was so
much exasperated at having so much unasked-for
notoriety thrust upon me, that I was ready for any-
thing that might happen.

I made my way out, nonchalantly filling my
pipe, and then standing in the doorway, lit it very
slowly. I fancied I heard a murmur as though of
excitement, but this was probably my imagination,
and the crowd drew nearer.

The two gendarmes were standing on the curb.
One of them immediately came over to me. I pre-
tended my pipe was not well lighted, so produced
another match and puiBEed placidly as though 1 had
not noticed him.

" Vous avez des papiers, monsieur ? " he asked
without preamble.

*' Oh ! " I exclaimed at the top of my voice, throw-
ing away the mat<?h and feigning great indignation.

144 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

" that is the reason, is it, why you tracked me here
from the marchand de vinSy and put me to the
indignity — me, an Englishman — of being seen by
every one, followed by gendarmes as if I were a
criminal or a German spy ! "

The man raised his hand deprecatingly at my
unexpected tirade, as though to deny they had any
such thought concerning me, and said in a placating
tone —

" Mais, monsieur, there is no need to get angry,
we had no intention of causing you any annoyance ;
we were simply cariying out our duty."

I cut him short.

" Yes, I knew what you would say — ^j'Our duty.
That is what all you gentlemen always tell me. But
your duty was plainly to ask me at once when j^ou
saw me in the inarchand de vins, where I would have
immediately satisfied your legitimate curiosity, and
not to hunt me through the streets and lie in wait
for me at the door of my hotel, and attract all these
people. Do you suppose I should be such an idiot
as to come to Chalons if I had no papers on me ? I
have a good mind to report you both."

My simulated indignation had a most extra-
ordinarj'- effect. The man stepped back, saluted me
gravely and repeated that they had no desire to
wound the susceptibilities of an Englishman ; then
turning to the crowd called out —

" What are you all standing there for ? This is
no affair of yours— disperse at once."

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 145

The people moved away slowly and almost
reluctantly, it seemed : they had evidently expected
a more exciting denouement. The two gendannes
followed them.

I had half a mind to call out after them that they
had forgotten to see my papers, but thought it
best to leave well alone ; it was a pity to spoil the
"bluff " ; so I fetched my ruck-sack and made my
way slowly along the main street to the station and
caught my train wdthout further incident.

Lpernay was in the same condition as Chalons : it
had been completely looted by the Germans, and many
of the better-class houses befouled in a way that
cannot be described.

It was extremely difficult to find a room as the
place was crowded, and the principal hotel was not
yet reopened. It had been left in such a filthy
condition by the "Boche" officers that it would take
weeks to cleanse. After wandering about for hours,
I had eventually to put up with the roughest accom-
modation I had yet struck. It was better than
nothing, and that was about all that could be said
for it. But I was only asked one franc a night,
so the people had evidently judged to a nicety its
utmost worth !

Of all the places I have been to, Epernay struck
me as one of the dullest and most uninteresting,
surprisingly unattractive, indeed, considering I had
heard it spoken of as a city of millionaire champagne
owners.

146 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

It is certain, nevertheless, that the Huns had a
very shrewd idea of its importance, for their entrance
into the town was attended by all the pomp and
circumstances of a triumphal procession. Massed
bands headed the troops as they marched down the
Rue St. Laurent, doing the " goose-step " in parade
order.

Most of the inhabitants had decided to remain,
and those who did were unmolested ; the onlv houses
that were broken into were those that had been
left unoccupied.

Of course, a clean sweep was made of everything
in the shops; as at Chalons and elsewhere nothing
remained in the shape of cigars, tobacco, cigarettes,
matches, sugar, etc. A list of requisitions was made
out by the German commander, which had to be
complied with to the smallest detail; protestations
were unavailing: so the town, to all intents and
purposes, was veritably sacked.

The officers and men drank champagne and other
wines to their hearts' content — needless to say without
paying for it, but it must be recorded that some of
the officers were delicate enough to give " bons "
for what they took ! As, however, most of these
were illegible and undated documents they were only
so much waste paper for what they were likely
to be worth fiscally after the war. Many of the
inhabitants, I was told, were keeping them as
souvenirs.

In connection with this wine-bibbing, I was told

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 147

a somewhat curious story of an incident that took
place at a farm in the outskirts of the town. It
conveys a good idea of the summary methods of
German mihtary discipHne.

The farm in question was taken possession of by
the troops, and the proprietor (who, by the way, him-
self told me the storj^) under the menace of a revolver
had to provide food and wine for the officers, who
installed themselves comfortably in the best room of
the house.

A sentry with rifle and fixed bayonet was placed
on guard at the entrance to the cellar, to prevent the
soldiers going into it. By some means the attention
of the man was diverted for a few moments, or
possibly he had been promised that if he looked the
other way he would not be forgotten, and would get
a bottle for himself when the time came. Anyhow,
when the farmer at the command of the officers
went down again to the cellar to fetch some more
wine, he found to his surprise a soldier busily engaged
filling flasks at the tap of one of the casks of his best
wine.

Without hesitation he returned to the officers
and informed them what was taking place, whereupon
one of them, a huge fellow, jumped up in a violent
rage and rushing down the steps into the cellar
seized the delinquent and dragging him up into the
room Ijattered liim unmercifully with his fists all
over the head and face until the man's eyes were
blackened, his nose bleeding, and he was almost

148 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

unrecognizable, the officer finishing up by kicking
the poor devil out into the courtyard, where he fell
groaning in the mud.

The brute then turned his rage on to the sentry.
Going up to the fellow he shouted something in
German, and grabbing him by his moustache, which
w'as a fairly long one, he twisted one side of it com-
pletely off, then threw the man outside, yelling with
pain, to rejoin his companion.

Meanwhile the other officers remained seated at
the table, looking on with indifference, and not
offering the slightest protest at this exhibition of
brutality. Most probably they would have done
likewise had the opportunity presented itself.

Such are the methods of the Teuton officer,
by which he shows his superior " kultur " and his
authority over his men. No wonder that so many of
the dead German officers were found to have been
shot in the back.

The exit of the German troops from fipernay
was neither so theatrical nor so impressive as their
entry, and there were no bands playing that day,
and no " goose step."

As a matter of fact, they all left in such a hurrj^
that they overlooked all manner of trifling military
objects that might have been of subsequent value to
them, such as rifles, bayonets, cartridge-belts and
so forth, which will doubtless make nice trophies in
the houses of the inhabitants after the war.

It was said that not a few officers and men who

ON 'JHE PATH OF ADVENTURE 149

had partaken too freely of the generous w ine of the
country and were not in a condition to take their
departure with their comrades, were detained by
entei-prising citizens in cellars and other safe but
somewhat undignified places, to await the arrival of
the French troops.

In the country outside Jfepernay, while I was there,
was an interesting and instructing spectacle. War
is full of strange contrasts, but I fancy it would be
difficult to imagine anything more curiously anoma-
lous than what was to be seen here.

Within sound of the guns and actually in sight
of the movements of the troops, the grape harvest
was in full progress, as though nothing whatever
was going on, and I was informed this was the
case all over the vineyard districts as far as
Kheims.

Such energy mider existing conditions was surely
not onlv a tribute to the wonderful fortitude of the
French, but a further proof of the courage which
animated the whole population.

It was at first feared that the entire recoUe that
year would be lost : that either the Germans would
devastate the vineyards, or that sufficient labour
would not be forthcoming for getting the grapes at
the right moment.

Both anticipations happily proved wrong. No
fighting took place in the vineyards.

The Germans argued presumably that all this
wealth was practically theirs for the taking, and

150 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

refrained therefore from pursuing their depredations
in this direction.

Curiously enough there turned out to be a super-
abundance of labour, brought about by the large
influx of refugees from villages in the Ardennes and
other districts, and all these poor people were only
too willing and happy to have the opportunity of
earning a little money, even at a certain amount of
risk.

The grapes of 1914 were as it happened of excep-
tionally fine quality, so it may be reckoned a real
slice of good luck that it was found possible to harvest
them without mishap. Had the Germans remained
here another week the whole recolte would have been
lost, I was told.

The magnificent vintage of 1870 has always been
spoken of as the " War vintage," and it is probable
that that of 1914 will prove equally renowned.

But to return to happenings in fipernay.

I soon learned that my sauf conduit was valueless
beyond fipernay, and my only chance of getting to
E-heims was if I could wangle a military pass out of
the authorities. This at first appeared out of the
question, so there was nothing for it but to remain
in fipernay to await events, as there was no induce-
ment to go far from the town ; so one seemed to pass
one's day at the restaurant or in the principal cafe,
with perhaps a little stroll up the main street between
times to stretch one's legs.

There was a very popular restaurant run by an

\i III I\i;s I.N ICI'KKNAV

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 151

old man who had a young and good-looking wife.
It was always crowded as the cuisine was excellent,
the old fellow having been formerly a chef ; though
I fancy madame was the real attraction to the dashing
young cuirassier officers who were the usual habitues
of the place.

The principal cafe was the rendezvous of all the
elite in Epernay, and at Fheure de Vaperitif in the
afternoon every table outside was occupied, and one
often saw a magnificent array of Staff uniforms and
decorations galore.

It was apparently tacitly understood that only
officers sat here, but of course I could not guess
this, so one afternoon I ensconced myself in the
pleasantest corner and settled mj^self comfortably
with my pipe and a long drink, till dinner-time.

Gradually the tables round me filled up and I
found myself completely hemmed in by officers,
mostly of high rank. I noticed then that furtive
glances were being cast on me. I took no notice
at first, but at last this threatened to become irri-
tating. I knew something was going to happen.

At the table nearest me a fierce- looking major
who had evidently been making remarks about me,
suddenly leaned forward and asked me if I could
give him a match. As I had seen him only a few
moments before with a full box in his hand, I said,
" Certainly, monsieur, if you desire it, but you have
already some of your own."

Without noticijig my reply he said abruptly —

152 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

" You speak very good French, monsieur. Of what
nationahty are you ? "

" So that is why you ha.ve been looking at me so
hard," I retorted in a loud tone, and addressing them
all. *' Well, to satisfy you gentlemen I am not a
German spy, but an Englishman ; you will perhaps
allow me to prove to j^ou my identity." And taking
my passport and other documents out of my pocket,
I spread them out before them. The effect was
electrical, and the fierce-looking major was profuse
in his apologies.

The incident was trivial enough, but it showed the
atmosphere one was always more or less up against.

In the meantime I had made friends with an officer
of the Traill des Equipages (Motor Transport Convoy)
that went everj^ day with stores from Epernay to a
distributing depot a few miles from Rheims.

He genially offered to give me a run out there in
his car any day, if I could get permission to go with
him, and suggested that perhaps the Commandant
d'Armes would give me the necessary permit.

So I went and interviewed the gentleman in
question, and curiously enough he turned out to be
one of the officers in the cafe incident I have just
related.

After some demur he consented to my having a
laisser passer which allowed me to proceed to several
places along the line of communications — Ormes,
Champfleur>% Montbre, Verzenay, Petite-Loges, Liviy ,
la Chej)pe, and as it happened one of these places was

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 153

the destination of the Transport Convoy. I ventured
to hint that while he was about it Kheims might be
included, since it was only a few miles further on —
but to no effect. If I could get permission from
the prevote {i.e. the gendarmerie) to go there, well
and good, but so far as he was concerned he could
not grant it. My transport friend was as good as his
word. On seeing my laisser passer he agreed to take
me with him the following day.

The convoy left ]j]pernay every morning at seven
o'clock, and I was advised not to bring an}^ bulky
luggage, as the car Avas only a small one. As I had
only my rucksack with me, this did not trouble me
much. When I turned up, my friend informed me
that to his regret he would be unable to accompany
me, so he would put me on the leading waggon, which
was driven by the sergeant in temporary command of
the convoy.

It was a bit of a disappointment, after looking
forward to a jaunt in a luxurious car, the more espe-
cially as I should be with men I did not knoAv at all ;
but there was no help for it, and no time to lose, as
punctuality was strictly observed. So up I cHmbed
on to the box seat, and off we went.

The convoy consisted of ever}^ description of
motor-waggon and some Paris motor-omnibuses,
about a dozen in a]], packed full up witli army
stores, forage, etc. There were three soldiers,
including the driver, to each car, so it made a pretty
tight squeeze, as I soon realized. But my companions

154 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

had a peculiar sense of humour and treated my
presence as a huge joke ; in fact, we were speedily
on the best of terms.

It was a dull, grey, autumnal morning, with a
sharpish wind that cut through one like a knife, and
I found myself very cramped and uncomfortable
on the unsheltered seat of the waggon. I was
wearing breeches and gaiters and a Norfolk jacket
with only a light " Burberry " waterproof as over-
coat, so before we had gone very far I was chilled to
the very bone. Almost needless to mention, my
companions were wearing their heavy army great-
coats.

A few miles along the road we stopped for some
reason or another, and I profited by it to endeavour
to make myself a bit more comfortable. The sergeant
stowed my rucksack under the seat, and kindly got
a man to fetch a blanket to go over my knees.

Suddenly it seemed to occur to him that my
waterproof was not very warm, and he insisted on my
getting into a spare great-coat that was in the waggon.
It was very big for me, and came well down below
my knees, and thus hid my breeches. The great-
coat of the French soldier is practically his entire
uniform, as he always wears it summer and winter.

I could only guess the transformation in my
appearance by the laughter it produced. " He only
wants a hepi to look a typical reserviste," some one
remarked. " Then lend me one," said I, " and I
shall not look out of place on the waggon." This was

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 155

agreed to nem. con. In a few moments a cap was
found that fitted me, and that fortunately, Hke the
great-coat, had no regimental number on it. I
pulled the cap well down over my eyes, turned up
the collar of the coat, and felt that my best friend
would have failed to recognize me.

As I clambered back to my seat the thought
flashed through my mind what a mad thing I was
doing, and that there would be the very devil to pay
if I were caught masquerading like this ; but the
thrill of the adventure and the humour of the situ-
ation soon made me feel at my ease again, and as we
passed several officers I took the cue from my com-
panions and, to their great amusement, saluted as
they did.

*' Where is it you want to get to ? " asked the
sergeant suddenly, as though an idea had struck him.

" Rheims," I replied, " if the gendarmes wiU
let me."

You need not trouble about that," he remarked.
I will drive you on there after I have got rid of my
cargo. I don't suppose we shall be very long un-
loading, and then I am free for a few hours."

" It won't get you into an}- trouble, taking me
there ? "I asked, for I did not m ant to take advantage
of his good nature.

" Not in the least," he rephed. " I want to get
a few things one can't buy in Ij^perna}^ and it will be
an excuse to tr\' and get them in Rheims. And at
the same time we can have an aperiiif together, if

((

156 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

there is a cafe left."" So it was arranged that I should
remain in the waggon while it was being unloaded.

I felt I should be showing nervousness if I made
any objection, besides Avhicli we were now quite close
to our destination, and I had no chance to alter my
mind and get out of the uniform, even if I had so
desired.

The distributing depot was a sort of junction
where several big roads converged, and it w^ould have
been impossible to picture a more animated scene of
military activity. Officers and men of apparently
every branch of the French army w^ere there ; mili-
tary vehicles of every^ description were drawn up
awaiting our arrival.

*' I shall have to leave you for a little while,"
said the sergeant, as he pulled up, *'but you just stay
M'here you are and no one will take any notice of y ou ; "
and without giving me time to reply he jumped down
in the throng of soldiers. Meanwhile his companion
had hurried off to the back of the waggon and
started unfastening the flaps. So I was left quite
alone.

As may be imagined I felt an3^thing but comfort-
able. I realized now the risk I was running, for
round about I could see several gendarmes, and it
was not difficult to imagine what would happen if
they ** spotted " me. A military officer might look on
my escapade as a joke, but a sergeant of gendarmerie
would have no such sense of humour. I had had
experience of his views on duty, as will be remembered,

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 157

and the mere thought of getting into his clutches
again produced a cold shiver down my back.

Since no one seemed to take any particular notice
of me, I lit a cigarette and assumed as nonchalant
an air as possible.

A little incident, however, occurred wliich even
now makes me shudder when I recall it — for I w^as
within an ace of being discovered.

A load of empty sacks had just been dumped on
the ground in front of me. Then a big empty
*' camion " drew up alongside. At this moment an
excitable captain of dragoons, who was evidently
looking around for something to find fault with,
noticed a soldier standing idly by my waggon with
his hands in his pockets.

What are you doing there ? " bawled the officer.
Nothing for the moment, mon capitaine," was
the reply.

" How nothing ? Then set to work and do some-
thing ! Pick up horse-dung — anything ; but, N ■

de D , don't stand there doing nothing ! " Then

suddenly espying the empty sacks, to my conster-
nation he called out to me —

" Where are these sacks to go — in this camion ? "
indicating the one that had just drawn up.

I could not risk a complicated reply in case my
accent miglit betray me, so without the slightest
hesitation I saluted smartly and replied —

*' Oui, mon capitaine ! "

To my relief he took no notice of lue, but in lesa

158 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

time almost than it takes to relate, he had got the
soldier hard at work piling the sacks in the van.
In a few minutes it was loaded up : " En route ! "
the officer called out to the driver, and off went the
waggon with the sacks. Where they got to. Heaven
only knows — ^perhaps the}^ are still travelling.

Meanwhile the distribution of stores had been
proceeding rapidly, and the various regimental
waggons were starting on their return journeys with
their loads. The throng was thinning out. The
day's routine of our convoy was ended.

At last the sergeant turned up. " Well, they
haven't shot you," he exclaimed jokingly, as he
accepted a cigarette I offered him. " How have you
got on ? No one took any notice of you ? I told
you they wouldn't. I am sorry I was away so long,
but there was a lot to see to."

I told him the incident of the sacks, whereupon
he gave a long whistle, and then roared with laughter
at the denouement. He evidently thought it was
a capital joke.

" And now for Rheims and our aperitif ! "

It was a run of about eight miles, and once past
the depot we seemed to leave the military zone for
the time being. It was a delightful country road,
typically French, and for the first mile or so, had it
not been for the distant booming of the big guns,
one might almost have forgotten the war. But a
turn in the road brought it back in all its realitv.
One saw the cathedral of Rheims standing out in

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 159

sharp silhouette against the sky. All around were
significant columns of smoke — the destruction of the
city was continuing with unabated fury.

The guard at the Porte de Paris took no notice
whatever of us. No doubt hundreds of military
transport waggons passed through the gates every
day.

The sergeant knew his way to the place where
my "detective friend" inMailly had told me I could
get lodgings, and drove to an unfrequented lane,
where he pulled up and advised me to get into
civilian attire again. The sense of relief I experi-
enced when I got out of the uniform can be better
imagined than described. I felt I would not have
gone through the experience again for a pension.

The house I had been recommended to turned out
to be quite a nice brasserie in the Rue Chanzy.
On my presenting the card of introduction the pro-
prietor, a typical ex-police officer, received me with
great cordiality, shaking hands and telling me that
all his friend's friends were welcome, that the best
he had was at my disposal, and that he and his wife
would make me as comfortable as possible, under
the circumstances. Adding with a laugh that happily
the Germans had left him a few bottles of wine, so
there was no need to go thirsty when taking refuge
in the cellar — a remark the meaning of which I did
not fully appreciate till later. Of course, my friend

100 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

the sergeant and I had our much looked forward to
aperitif, and I tried to persuade him to remain to
lunch with me ; but it appeared the bombardment
often started afresh about that time, so he thought
it advisable in case of accidents not to delay getting
back to Epernay ; and as though to warn him to get
moving the boom of a gun Avas heard in the distance,
followed a few seconds later by the crash of an
explosion in a neighbouring street.

" lis commencent de bonne lieure, aujourd'hui,"
remarked the proprietor casually. Then turning
to his wife added : " We had better have dejeuner
a little earlier."

I realized at once that I was likely to have all
the excitement that was good for me while I was in
Rheims.

CHAPTER XII

In Rheiras during the bombardment — Weeks of excitement — The optimism
brought about by a few peaceful hours — Short respite from the shells —
Impulse to bolt for cover — Demoralizing effects of bursting shells in
streets — A nerve-racking incident — Explosive force of the " Jack
Johnsons " — Ruins everywhere — The unexploded shell in front of
post office — Aspect of streets during a lull — Overwrought nerves —
The terror of the guns — Safety underground — The extraordinary
scene in the vaults of Pommery Greno — Danger in cellars of private
houses — Tragic discovery — A city of the dead after dark— The desire
for companionship when in peril — The drastic lighting regulations —
'■ Firework Signallers " — Hun espionage, a fine art — Two spy incidents
• — Souvenirs of the Hun occupation — Arrogant proclamation — Living
in state of siege — Curious scenes.

A MONGST my many and varied experiences,

/ % I can recall nothing which, for sheer

y % excitement, can compare with those three

weeks I spent in Rheims.

Although 1 will admit I should not be keen on

going through such an experience very often, there

was a sort of weird fascination about it all that makes

me look back on the times of which I am writing

as containing some of the most interesting episodes

of my life. Everything that happened while I was

there is vividly impressed on my memor}-. Life

was at extreme tension every hour, and the feeling

that something sensational might occur was ever

present.

161 M

162 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

A couple of days or so of comparative immunity
from bombardment would serve to inspire a certain
amount of hope that the terror of the big shells was
past. The streets began to wear a more animated
aspect, and extra daring shopkeepers would even
venture partially to open their premises — that is
if they had anything left of their belongings ; whilst
added to the optimism brought about by a few peace-
ful hours, there were always rumours that we had
seen the last of the bombardment, and that the Ger-
mans had removed their big guns from Berru and
Nogent, the positions from which they had shelled
the city for so many terrible weeks.

Alas ! the respite never lasted long, and our hopes
were always rudely dispelled. Without the slightest
warning, and when we were least expecting it, a big
shell would suddenly burst in the city, usually the
prelude to a veritable hail of huge, death-dealing
projectiles which would continue for hours and cause
all around conflagrations, Avhich added to the general
ruin.

In a very few minutes after the first explosion,
the people would disappear as if by magic. Then
there would be another spell of desolation, during
which the outdoor life of Rheims would be restricted
to one or two places which, for no very definite reason,
had come to be considered, more or less, as outside
the immediate danger zone. But in reality there was
no quarter that was immune, for the shells dropped
all over the city.

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 163

It was as though the German artillerymen were
determined to show again and again what Teuton
'' f rightfulness " meant, and to demonstrate how^
completely they had Rheims at their mercy.

The change that would come over the city once
the bombardment recommenced was positively
remarkable. A veritable stampede for shelter would
be witnessed, not infrequently bringing about quite
humorous situations and much laughter. Tears are
closely allied to mirth in overwrought nature.

The first impulse, as soon as the screech of an
approaching shell was heard, was to make a bolt for
the nearest open doorway, though immediately one
was under cover it alwa3\s struck one how absolutely
senseless it was to have hurried to reach such a frail
shelter, for no house ever built could offer the
slightest protection against projectiles of the dimen-
sions the Germans were sending us. It was merely
a question of blind luck whether one w^as hit or not.

A man I knew told me he used to say to himself
at these moments ; " Mon gargon, if your number
is up, nothing can save you." So he never bustled
in the least, although the majority of people are not
apt to take such a philosophic view of peril. Hence
an exploding shell always resulted in a mad rush in
all directions.

One may get somewhat reckless of shells dropping
in the open country, A\'here the soft soil circumscribes
the effect, and frequently prevents the explosion;
but among buildings or on stone pavements, it is

164 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

a very difEcrcnt matter. In closely-built towns it
is a very rare occurrence indeed for a shell to miss
fire, so, added to the risk of casualty from flying
metal, there is the danger from falling masonry.

There is no doubt, too, that the demoralizing
as well as the material effect of a big shell is increased
enormously when it explodes against a house or in a
street, and in this connection I can recall nothing
more nerve-racking than an incident that occurred
to me one afternoon.

Everything had been tranquil for some hours, so
I was out exploring among the ruins. Suddenly
I heard overhead the shriek of an approaching
projectile, and a shell burst unpleasantly near to
where I was standing. In the deserted street the
detonation was deafening, and the ground actually
shook under the force of the explosion.

As I stood still for a moment, uncertain which way
to go, I heard another shell coming, and then another.
The Germans had the range to a nicety, for all the
shells burst within an area of a few yards.

Then, just in front of me, the corner walls of what
had been a tall building began ominously to lean
forward, and, with an appalling fracas of falling stone
and brickwork, collapsed into the roadway with a
deafening crash. A cloud of dust arose that almost
blinded me, and for a few minutes obscured every-
thing; around.

It appeared to me that another explosion would
bring down all that remained of the side of the street,

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 165

and as I had no desire to be buried alive, it did not
take me long to decide that the neighbourhood was
too warm for sightseeing that afternoon. I confess
I did not breathe freely until I felt I was well outside
the danger zone.

The explosive force of the " Jack Johnsons "
was terrifying, one must have seen the craters they
made to realize it. In one street there was a veritable
pit. It could not have been less than forty feet
across, and four horses could have been buried in
it easity.

One of these huge shells exploded in the theatre —
a fine and imposing building — and wiped out the whole
of the interior so completely that not a vestige of the
four galleries remained. The walls and a heap of
shapeless rubble alone bore silent witness to the
destructive power of the explosive, though, curiously
enough, the exterior of the edifice was not in the least
damaged, with the exception of one window through
which the shell had entered. Stranger still, the
curtains to the window were undamaged and still
hung on the framework.

Ruins were, of course, to be seen cvcrj^where,
though more especially in the neighbourhood of the
cathedral, which was the central point of the bom-
bardment and a favourite target of tlie Hun batteries.
In this quarter whole streets had disappeared, and
ever}'- day the area of devastation was windcning.
80 that we had the growing conviction that if the
businf^ss^s•out on mucliloufrorRlioinis would event nall\'

166 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

cease to exist. There was no distinction in the
wanton destruction : rich and poor quarters all
suffered alike. Sometimes as many as four hundred
shells fell in one day.

There were instances — though, unfortunately,
very rare — when a shell, although it fell in a street,
did not explode.

A curious instance of this was to be seen in front
of the temporary post office, where a huge projectile
had dropped without bursting, but had made a
terrific hole in the roadway. The shell, which AAas
lying quite exposed to view, had been hastily fenced
round, and notices put on the four sides of the
barrier: "Don't come too close ; extremely dangerous."

As may be imagined, every one gave the place a
wide berth, and there was not much demand for
stamps just then.

The shell was removed shortly after by the special
squad of artillerymen who are taught how to handle
unexploded projectiles, and have a special instrument
for the purpose — a huge pair of velvet-lined shears
on a trolley, and a big padded receptacle to take the
shell away in.

It would be difficult to give anything like a word
picture of the aspect of the streets even when there
was a lull in the spell of intense bombardment. To
describe them as silent and deserted would be suffi-
ciently accurate, but underlying this calm there was,
one felt, a " mefiance " that obsessed every one— a
feeling that the respite was perhaps but a dastardly

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 167

ruse on the part of the enemy to attract the inhabi-
tants into the open and thus make more victims.

This uncanny silence was actually oppressive, for
although it should have come as a welcome relief
after the terrifying din of the explosions, there was
always present the sensation that at any moment the
calm would be broken by the screech of a projectile
overhead.

Nerves were wrought to high tension, and when
out of doors the slightest noise irritated beyond
measure, for the curious reason that it distracted
attention from sounds up above in the sky.

Although one felt oneself absolutely helpless if
a shell did come along, there was an insistent desire
to hear its approach, and on that account the silence
produced a weird fascination of its own which it
is difficult quite to analyse.

For instance, one morning, during one of these
lulls, when I was taking a cautious stroll, prepared to
make a bolt for shelter at the slightest warning, a
man wheeling a barrow along the street would, so
it appeared to me, persist in keeping level with me,
in spite of my stopping continually and doing my
best to let him get on ahead. The rattle of the
wheels on the cobble-stones ended by getting on my
nerv'es to such an extent as to make me feel positively
murderous towards him.

The proprietor of the place where I was staying,
told me that the mere whirr of an approaching car
wouk] upset him altogctlicr during these short hills

168 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

in the bombardment. If it affected him, an old
soldier, and an ex-police-sergeant, how much more
nerve-racking must it have been to the general
population !

As has been said, living under such conditions of
constant peril involved a big strain on the nervous
system. The women and children suffered severely,
though even some of these got accustomed to the
ever-present danger, with the result that scarcely
a day passed without deaths in the street directly
caused by negligence to take cover.

To a great number, however, the very mention
of the German guns inspired such terror that on the
slightest suspicion of a renewal of the bombardment
they immediatel}' made for places of safety under-
ground.

In cases where poor people had no place of their
own in which to take refuge, the municipality had
given permission for the vault under the Hotel de
Ville and other buildings to be opened to the public,
and this permission was eagerly taken advantage of
by old and young at all hours.

All the champagne merchants allowed their vast
cellars to be utilized as permanent refuges for the
families of their employees. I visited the vaults of
the famous firm, Pommer}^ Greno, in one of the
suburbs, and witnessed a most extraordinary scene.

Over twelve hundred old men, women and children
were living in the semi-obscurity, for onl\' a few
candles and small lamps ilhiminod the gloomy tunnels,

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ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 169

which had been converted by means of canvas hang-
ings into dormitories and Hving apartments.

Here with forty feet of soHd chalk above them,
the terror-stricken -women and children could feel
absolute^ safe. Manj^ of the scared occupants of
these cellars never ventured above ground— in fact,
a little underground colony had gradually come into
being, with schools, church, etc.

How near they actually were to the danger was
proved by the spectacle of ruin above ground, for
little remained of the splendid factorj^ office buildings,
and ornamental grounds. They happened to be
directly in the line of fire of the German batteries,
and consequently suffered heavily. In fact, this
particular quarter was considered to be in the very
worst of the danger zone.

I went out there with one of the managers, who
was, b3^ the way, a very genial Enghshman named
Sandford, and we had the greatest difficulty in getting
a vehicle. It was only on our offering double faro
and promising not to take him further than a certain
point, that we got a man to drive us. He had a wife
and children to consider, he told us.

In many of the houses of the wealthy class, where
there are cellars, these were prepared against emer-
gencies, and often fitted up with makeshift beds,
and provided with eatables, candles etc., in case of
the necessity for a prolonged occupation.

It was beginning to be known, however, that it
was often nn^re daiit^erous to take rofuGfe below

170 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

private houses than to remain upstairs, and this was
brought home by a tragic discovery under the ruins
of a house in the Rue Colbert, where fifteen corpses
were found in the cellar. The unfortunate people had
been asphixiated.

An incendiary shell had burst in the house, which
had collapsed and taken fire, and the only exit from
the cellar in which these people had taken refuge was
blocked up. Doubtless many lives have been lost
under the ruins of the city under similar conditions.

As may be imagined, every one who was able to
get away from Rheims had left at the commence-
ment of the bombardment, so that the streets during
the daytime, even when the guns were silent, presented
for the most part an aspect of Sabbath calm. After
dark it was a city of the dead. Gas and electricity
had disappeared, and all was in gloom.

x\t eight o'clock all lights in houses had to be
extinguished, and no one was allowed out of doors
under any pretence. This practically meant going
to bed at that hour, and being in complete darkness
till morning.

It was this drastic regulation that increased to
a great extent the general sense of nervousness, as
evening approached.

In time of peril there is no doubt a desire for
companionship, and this was especially noticeable
in Rheims towards the hour of the curfew. People
would invent all sorts of excuses to remain togetlier
as long as possible.

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ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 171

This of course was quite comprehensible, for to
be shut up in one's room alone, and in darkness,
while the big guns were booming and shells bursting
near by, with the apprehension that at any moment
the house you were in might catch fire or come tumb-
ling about your ears, was not calculated to engender
a condition of mental placidity.

Soldiers who were obliged to remain in the city
after dark told me that in spite of being in comfortable
quarters they often wished they were back with their
comrades in the trenches, for at least there they
could get into shelter of some sort, if only in a rough
dug-out, and defend themselves against attack,
while they were only running the risk of one kind
of death, whereas here, it was not only the menace
of high explosives but of falling houses and fire to
boot. In Rheims there was the awful sensation
that you might be caught like a rat in a trap if any-
thing happened to the house you might be in.

To attempt to evade the lighting regulations
was of course asking for very serious trouble, but now
and again ^vhen there was good news in the official
communique one was tempted to risk sitting up with
friends, enjo^dng an extra bottle of wine in the dim
light of a well-shaded candle and with the curtains
carefully drawn.

The merest glimmer, however, that could be seen
outside, would be almost certain to be noticed by the
vigilant watchmen who were constantly ])rowling
around, on the look-out foT" any infractions of the

172 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

regulations — and to disregard the stern warning of
a passing patrol " il y a de la lumiere la haut — eteignez
de suite," would mean immediate arrest with dire
consequences to the delinquent, for the city was
under martial law and a locked street door was no
protection if orders were not immediately obeyed.

The fact that the city was infested with spies
was the principal reason for these precautions. There
were plenty of men and women who were untiring in
their efforts to convey to the German lines intelligence
of the disposition of the troops in and around Rheims.
I was continually hearing of arrests and executions.

The brasserie I was living in was the rendezvous
of the militar}^ plain-clothes police, who would be
out all night on the roofs of the houses tr3ang to catch
" firework signallers." It appeared that Roman
candles were being constantly used at night for
signalling.

That the Germans have made of espionage a fine
art has long been recognized, and it was undoubtedly
one of the most serious factors the Allied Generals
had to contend with. The ramifications of the verit-
able army of spies seemed endless, and almost
compelled admiration for its organizers. There
seemed to be no risks these spies would not take to
achieve an object.

Whilst I was in Rheims, two incidents in particular
came to m}- notice, which struck me as being perfectly
inimitable in their sheer reckless audacit} .

One afternoon a ])oworful car, driven by a French

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 173

trooper of dragoons, arrived at one of the entrance
gates of the city. In the car were two gendarmes
with a handcuffed German prisoner between them.
So far this was a very ordinary everyday spectacle,
and attracted very little attention from the public.

The car was stopped in due course by the guard
at the gate, and the password demanded. This was
unhesitatingly given, and the chauffeur was about
to drive on when something about the car aroused
the suspicion of the brigadier on duty, and he refused
to allow it to proceed without examining the papers
of the gendarmes.

His suspicions w^ere fully confirmed when he
discovered that the most essential document of all —
the official permit to drive a car in the war zone — was
wanting.

Of course, the occupants were immediately taken
before the Commandant d'Armes, and it turned out
that they were all Germans even to the dragoon
chauffeur ! They had disguised themselves thus in
order to get through the French lines into Rheims.
It is needless to add what was their fate. Justice
for spies was summary at the front.

On another occasion, where the top-floor flat of
an apparently unoccupied house had aroused suspi-
cion, a forcible entrance was made, and in a bed-
room, a man was discovered seated by a bed on which
was lying a woman gasping for breath — her head
enveloped in a heavy blood-stained bandage and to
all appearance in extremis.

174 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

The man was apparently distraught with grief
and at first sight it seemed to be a very sad case, as
no doctor appeared to be at hand. He protested
vehemently at the unceremonious visit, saying that
it was cruel to thus disturb the last moments of his
dear wife.

It all looked so real that the police were genuinely
sorry for having intruded so roughly, and almost
ended by actually apologizing for their inopportune
visit. They were withdrawing on tip-toe so as not
to cause any unnecessary suffering to the poor
woman in her last moments, when the hawk-eye of
their officer was attracted by a trifling detail that gave
the game away — a pair of unmistakable German boots
lying in a corner of the room.

In an instant he was back at the bedside, and
before the man could prevent him, with a quick
movement flung back the coverlet, revealing a fully
dressed man underneath.

The " dying woman " and *' her husband " were
two German spies.

How they managed to get possession of the room
and live in it undetected till then was a mystery that
could only be explained by the knowledge that there
were occasionally to be found renegade French men
and women who would sell their country for a few
hundred francs, and miserable traitors of this
description had possibly connived at the couple
of Huns taking up their quarters here, at the
top of the house where they had easy access to

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 175

the roof, and from which they could send up
signals at night.

Naturallv, both the men shared the fate of the
other gang in the car.

With the knowledge, therefore, that close at hand
was a cunning enemy, ready and willing to run such
risks to get into the city, it may be imagined that the
police and the inhabitants were suspicious of every
one they did not know personally, and this atmosphere
of mistrust on all sides helped in no small degree to
accentuate the danger one ran in remaining in
Rheims during the bombardment.

To be seen with a sketch-book in one's hand would
be " asking for trouble," and to make notes in it
would mean certain arrest and endless formalities
before the military authorities were satisfied as to
one's bona fides. I had had enough of this alread}^
so was not inclined to take any risks in a city like
Rheims, where I had the feeling that I was " spotted '■'
as a stranger, and therefore suspect, and that wherever
I went I was being watched all the time from early
morning till late at night.

The Remois had " Boche " on the brain, and little
wonder, for it was not only the spectacle of the devas-
tation and the booming of the big guns that reminded
them of their hateful proximity.

The streets still displayed ocular evidence of the
recent Hun occupation of Rheims, in the form of
big green " proclamations " posted on the walls in
prominent positions. One of these issued by the

176 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

may or — " b}- order of the German Military Authority "
— threatened to burn the city to the ground and to put
all the inhabitants to death by hanging if they took
part in any combats with the German army or
molested or obstructed the soldiers by barricading
the streets. The proclamations in some cases con-
cluded with a long list of the names of hostages held
by the Germans in guarantee that the particular
order to which it referred was carried out.

On reading these cruel, arrogant notifications
one's mind was carried back to the Middle Ages — ■
although it is doubtful that even in those days
barbarism was so deliberately vindictive in its inhu-
manity. It certainly could not have been more so.

These placards afforded a far more convincing
insight of German methods and character than any
newspaper report. They formed a conclusive and
irrefutable indictment, which required no further
substantiating evidence.

It is to be hoped that the city of Rheims preserved
as many of them as possible ; they will prove docu-
ments of intense historic interest in years to come
when " Kultur " will have become a forgotten by-
word.

Although the great victoiy of the Marne had
driven the Huns out of the city, we were living in a
comparative state of siege all the time.

Yet curiously enough although such everyday
luxuries as tobacco and cigarettes were quite un-
obtainable—the Germans having requisitioned

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ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 177

everything during their stay — actual living was no
dearer than elsewhere.

In a large measure this could be accounted for
by the fact that the majority of the inhabitants had
left the city, and only one hotel and a cafe or so
were open ; but it was quite remarkable how, on the
slightest return of confidence, the market-place
became quite animated, and one saw the stalls well
provided with aU kinds of foodstuff at practically
ordinary prices.

It was always a distinctly nervous crowd however,
and you could not fail to notice the furtive glances
towards the sky and the tense look on the women's
faces at the slightest untoward sound, such as the
slamming of a door. Every one realized that at any
moment a " Taube " might come over or the batteries
open lire.

Most of the poorer people, whose homes were in
the danger zone, would get away early in the morning
to a distant quarter of the city where they thought
they ran less risk, and there they remained until
nightfall. The Faubourg by the Porte de Paris
especially used to be crowded, and almost resembled
a fair, and hawkers of food and fruit did a big
trade.

Here the bombardment could only be faintly
heard, so a general feeling of cheerfulness prevailed,
especially if the day were fine ; but as night
approached, the return journey had perforce to
be made, for there w&s no evading the military

178 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

regulations, even if shells were still falling in the danger
zone. The crowd dispersed sadly, little groups of
people making their way homeward through the
growing darkness and ruins of the streets, lit up inter-
mittently by blazing buildings and bursting shells,
wondering, perchance, whether their own homes
had been spared during their absence; while the
terror of another night of bombardment obsessed
them all.

CHAPTER XIII

Rbeims to Eperaay — The steam tram to Dormans — Early start — Taking
advantage of lull — The railway accident at Bouleuse — A bad collision
— Inexplicable impulse that saved my life — The dead and injured —
A romantic little adventure — A vision of the Bois de Boulogne in days
of peace — A pleasurable surprise — " Like two tramps " — A jolly little
lunch — Her departure — Epemay afterwards — A disagreeable incident
—Its unexpectedly pleasant ending.

THREE weeks of Rheims under bombard-
ment were sufficient for any one who was
not a glutton for high explosives, and I
was beginning to think I had had about
enough of it, when the proprietor of the brasserie
informed me of his intention to shut up the place and
take a holiday with his wife in a more restful part of
the country. So as there appeared no chance of finding
other lodgings, I had no option but to pack up and
leave before I was locked out. I decided, therefore,
to return to Epemay and have a few quiet days
there to get on with my work before going
further alield.

The Germans in their retreat had blown up a
bridge on the main line, and there was only one way
by which one could get out of Rheims, a small
line — a sort of glorified steam tram was still running,

179

180 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

bombardment permitting, to Dormans, where one
could pick up the main service again and get to
fipernay by a circuitous route.

We were timed to leave early in the morning,
but it was quite a toss-up at the last moment whether
a start could be made, as shells had been bursting all
over the city since daybreak. Advantage, however,
was taken of a lull to get away, and I must confess
I was not altogether sorry when at last I got a

move on.

The carriages were of course crowded, and every
one in high spirits at having found room, for the
train had been literally besieged every day by people
who wanted to get away from the city, and it was
pathetic to note the look of rehef that came over the
faces of the women who had children with them when
we were out of the danger zone.

The journey, however, was destined to be an ill-
fated one for some of the passengers, as it was broken
by a terrible accident.

Just beyond Bouleuse, only a few miles from
Rheims, through some fault of a signalman we ran at
full speed into a train coming from the opposite
direction. The crash of the impact was so terrific
that at first it was thought that a shell had burst
in front of us.

The train stopped dead, and for a moment nothing
was heard but the hissing of escaping steam ; then
there arose the cries of women and childi^en, and
ever}' one scrambled out on to the line to find that the

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 181

two engines were inextricably locked together and
the leading carriages completely demolished.

By some inexplicable impulse I had changed my
seat at the last moment before startina; from the
first carriage to the end one, and this probably saved
my life.

Several soldiers were at hand fortunately, who
helped to extricate the unfortunate people pinned
down under the wreckage, and it was then found that
three men and an old lady had been killed outright,
and fourteen other people seriously injured. I
will not dwell on the harrowing sight.

In ordinary times this accident would have doubt-
less excited some comment, as it was almost incompre-
hensible for it to have happened on such a small line ;
but within sound of the guns and with thousands
of men being killed every day it passed as in-
significant.

It struck me, however, as being pretty hard luck
for the unfortunate victims, who had escaped the
perils of bombardment onh^ to lose their lives or
become maimed in a tramway accident.

This, of course, entailed remaining at Bouleuse
till the line could be cleared and a relief train sent
to take us on, and this occupied the entire day. Mean-
while the dead were taken away and the injured
removed to the neai-est hospital.

The village was ([uile an uiiiniportaut one but
there was the usual hotel-restaurant, \vhere we were
fortunately able to get something to eat ; and it

182 ON THE PA^^H OF ADVENTURE

was quite remarkable how soon the impression of
the accident seemed to wear off. I suppose it was
that after Hving in Rheims one became inured to
horrors.

This may perhaps also account for my having met
with a little adventure of quite a romantic character,
which one would hardly associate with a railway
accident.

Among the passengers I had espied a very pretty
girl, who seemed strangely out of keeping with the
rest. She was simply but exquisitely dressed and had
all the chic of the Parisienne, but what had particu-
larly drawn my attention to her, was that she had a
dog with her — one of those pointers so beloved by
the French sportsmen. It was a strange encum-
brance to travel with in the war zone. In the
bright sunlight she was like a vision of the Bois de
Boulogne in days of peace.

Somehow during the long hours of waiting for
the relief train to arrive, we came together, and
chatting on one thing or another we gradually
sauntered away from the crowd, and at last found
ourselves in the open country out of sight of the
railway line and the little station and the wreckage
of the train beyond.

Our conversation, as may be imagined, soon
drifted into subjects not connected with the
war — Paris, of course, as she was a Parisienne, I
learned, and returning there, and old Bohemian
haunts that we both knew well and loved, for she

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ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 183

lived near the Sorbonne ; until at last I almost
inclined to rub my eyes to make sure I was really
awake — it seemed so unreal, after the horror of the
accident and the recollection of the life in Rheims,
to find oneself strolling with a pretty girl and a
friendly dog in this secluded lane, the larks singing
overhead and all around so tranquil in the sunshine
of the summer morning.

But my thoughts were rudely brought back to
earth and realities, for suddenly in the distance there
was a crash like a thunder-clap, in the direction of
Rheims, and this was followed by a violent cannon-
ading, which effectually dispelled all poetic illusions.

Whilst we stood still, listening to the portentous
sounds, we heard a rumbling, rattling noise approach-
ing rapidly, and a battery of artilleiy dashed past
at full gallop towards the inferno beyond the hills — a
magnificent spectacle that sent a thrill of enthusiasm
through one. . ^

At length the relief train turned up, and we were
en route once more.

At Dormons, where we arrived late at night, there
was a wait of several hours, but to my pleasurable
surprise, instead of having a miserable third-class
compartment to travel in, there happened to be a
luxurious first-class corridor- carriage attached to
the train, and we got a compartment all to ourselves,
so it did not matter to me how slowly we travelled
or how long it took. 1 had some food and wine in my
bag, so we had a sort of picnic su])])er. aiul 1 made a

184 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

sketch of her as a souvenir of a dehghtfiil incident
of my wanderings in the m ar zone.

We reached fipernay at the ungodly hour of five
in the morning, long before any cafe was open, so
had nothing to do but to walk about, like two tramps,
" Comme deux chemineaux," as she put it, until
it was possible to get a wash and some breakfast.
Then the dog had to be disposed of, as she had only
brought it from Rheims to leave with friends
here.

Her train for Paris did not start till the afternoon,
so we had a jolly little lunch together, and when the
time came for her to go, it cost me a very strong
effort not to accompany her.

As may be imagined, Epernay for the next few
hours seemed duller and more unattractive than
ever after she had gone ; I consoled myself, however,
with the knowledge that I should see her again when
I got back to Paris from my wanderings.

The town was not so crowded this time and there
was no difficulty in getting a room, but I was told I
should have to go to the Maine and get a permis de
sejour, that is a permission to remain in the town.
This, of course, was only a matter of form in my case,
as my military permit from the Commandant d' Armes
Avas sufficient authority.

It w^as by then Vheure de VaferUif, so it occurred
to me to hunt up my friends of the Motor Transport
Convoy at the cafe they usually frequented ; but
there was no sign of them, and the square where the

^
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N^ P- ~

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 185

lorries usually drew up Mas deserted. I had my aperi-
tlf alone, then aimlessly loafed about feeling very
much like a fish out of water, while my thoughts
would persist in wandering in the direction of the
Paris train.

I was wondering where I should dine, when it
occurred to me that I might find some of my trans-
port friends at a restaurant where I had fed with
them a few times.

It was an old-fashioned sort of Bouillon with a
congerie of rooms leading from one to the other
and mostly frequented by the working class. But
my friends were not there and the place was crowded,
so I was making my way out when I noticed a seat
just vacated, and decided that I might as well feed
there as anywhere else.

It was not the sort of place I should have chosen
to dine in by myself, as I like a little more luxury
when I can get it; but for once it didn't matter, so
I sat down, ordered some food and began reading
a newspaper I had with me.

Meanwhile I had not taken much notice of the
people sitting round me, but gradually I began to
have the unpleasant feeling that I was the subject
of the conversation of a group of men sitting at the
next table, and at last I could not avoid hearing
what they were saying, and it flashed upon me that
I was in for another of the awkward situations I now
knew so well.

There was a narrow gangway between the table,

186 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

and the man seated next to me was beginning to
raise his voice for the benefit of the other tables —
while his friends appeared to be egging him on.

At last I caught the words, " Bien sur, c'est
un Allemand." I felt my back hair starting to bristle.
It was impossible to let this remark of his pass
unnoticed — every one was looking at me.

Leaning over I touched his arm and said : "I
advise you, mon ami, to be careful what you are
saying about me, unless you want to get yourself
into trouble."

He looked me up and down for a moment and
then said roughly : " You are not a Frenchman, so
what are you doing here ? "

" It is no business of yours what I am doing here,"
I replied ; " I am an Englishman and expect to be
treated with courtesy."

" You an Englishman," he retorted with a sneer;
** well, you don't speak or look like one and I don't
believe you."

*' You can believe what you like, but keep your
mouth shut," I replied, looking him straight in the
eyes.

One of the other men bent forward at this moment,
and said something to him which had the effect of
silencing him, just as he was about to answer me
back.

The party did not appear to discuss me again, and
shortly after left the restaurant.

I continued to read my paper, then having finished

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 187

my meal, paid the bill — making a point of giving an
extra good tip to the gar^on, who had witnessed the
incident — and walked out with studied deliberation,
as I felt instuictively I was in hostile surroundings.

It was quite dark outside and the street looked
deserted, but I had scarcely gone a dozen yards when
I felt a sharp tap on the shoulder. Looking round I
saw two civilians with tri-colour armlets on their
sleeves; just behind them was a little group of
individuals, amongst whom I recognized the men in
the restaurant.

"I want to see your papers," said the man who
had stopped me. I felt myself boil up.

*' Who are you that I should show you anything ? "
I vociferated.

*' Will you produce your papers ? " again demanded
the fellow.

" F moi la paix," I shouted at him, lifting

my stick menacingly.

In an instant I was pinioned from behind, and
before I could even attempt to struggle I was hurried
along the street. Not a word was said, and it dawned
on me that I was in for a serious adventure.

After we had proceeded some distance, I asked
the man who had accosted me where they w^ere
taking me.

" You will know in good time," was the gruff
reply.

" I shall make you regret this treatment of an
Englishman," I remarked, with as much calmness as

188 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

I could assume, considering the way I was being
hustled along.

" We shall see," he answered.

I was wondering where the jail was situated,
when I noticed we were going towards the Mairie,
and sure enough it was there they were making for.

By this time there was a big crowd following us,
and I heard sinister mutterings. Past the sentry
we went, across the courtyard and up the steps of
the main entrance.

I now felt sure of my ground, and with a sudden
wrench I got free from the grip of my captors, saying,
*' You can follow me ; I know the way here as well
as you do."

I opened the big door and dashed in, with all the
fellows like a pack of hounds at my heels.

The sight that met my eyes was a great relief.
There was a table in the main hall itself, with a lamp
on it. Seated round the table were several Staff
officers, and on the side facing the door was the
Commandant d'Armes.

They all turned round with amazement at my
unceremonious entrance, and I heard one of them
exclaim —

'' Tiens, c'est 1' Anglais."

Going quickly up to the table I blurted out :
" Monsieur le Commandant, I beg of you to be so
good as to inform these people that I am an English-
man and not a German spy."

There was a sort of growl of dissent amongst the

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 189

men who had crowded in behind me, and a movement
as if they Avanted to get at me.

There was a moment's pause, and then the Com-
mandant laughed heartity .

" Messieurs," he said, " you have made a mistake.
I know this gentleman, he is an Enghsh artist ; his
papers are quite en regie, and I liave m^'self given him
a permit to remain in fepernay as long as it pleases
him."

There was a dead silence for a moment, and then
the murmurs behind me started afresh, but now they
had a very different sound — they meant friendship,
not enmitv. Then the man who had arrested me came
forward with true French impulsiveness and offered
me his hand, saying how much he regretted the
mistake, and that he hoped I would forgive him.

I replied there was nothing to forgive — they had
onh' done their duty'; and adding grandiloquently
that I would rather be arrested a dozen times than
that one German spy should go free.

Turning to the commandant, I thanked him
sincerely for his courtesy, and earnestly expressed
the hope that I should not have to trouble him again.

When I got outside I was received in most starthng
fashion. All the men were waiting for me, and I
had to shake hands all round ; then thev insisted on
mv returninff to the restaurant with them to have a
glass of champagne, to show I bore them no ill
feeling — and we iinished up the evening in quite
unexpectedly festive fashion.

CHAPTER XIV

Troyes to Vitry-Ie-Fran^ois, Bar-le-Duc and Verdun — I return to Troyes —
The Commissaire genuinely pleased see me again — Decide make attempt
enter St. Mihiel salient — A sauf conduit to Bar-le-Duc — A joke in the
train — In Vitry-le-Francois — ^Another irritating incident — The two
commercial travellers— A startling occurrence — Locked in my room —
Curious sequel — The Sous-Prefet de la Marne — Determine to risk
continuing my journey — The amusing method of a joumahstic confrere
— En route for Bar-le-Duc — The Hun bully catches a Tartar — Bar-le-
Duc — The genial Commissaire of Police — Am granted a military pass
to Clermont-en-Argorme — My big adventure commences — The Petit-
Meusien — " No one allowed to go to Verdun " — Bauzee, the junction
for Verdun — I have a brilliant idea — On to Verdim — The complaisant
station-master— The truculent sentry — A sergeant comes to my rescue
— My cyclist guide.

I HAVE always when campaigning had the
feeling that there is an element of adventure
in being somewhere where one has no right
to be, and it was this feeling which again
prompted me to risk continuing my wandering.

For some time past in the direction of the Meuse,
there had been much conjecture with regard to what
was taking place in the St. Mihiel salient. There were
rumours of the Germans having made it a veritable
fortress with ferro-concrete defences and trenches,
from which the French would never be able to dis-
lodge them ; whilst Verdun had been quite outside
the ken of civilians for weeks.

190

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 191

So I made up my mind to have a shot at getting
to one of these places, or at any rate at approaching
as near one or the other as possible.

With the aid of my map I made a careful study
of the region and the various routes of access to it ;
finally deciding that my best course would be to
return to Troyes, and consult my friend the com-
missaire and see if he could not help me again.

Straightway, therefore, I went back to Troyes,
and was welcomed at the hotel as an habitue of the
house, as in fact I might almost consider myself, since
I had been going there several times now; while
the commissaire appeared genuinely pleased to see
me again, and listened to the story of my adventures
in Rheims with his usual interest.

When I told him of my new plans he did his
utmost to dissuade me, pointing out the risk I ran
of serious consequences if I ventured too far in that
particular direction I had in my mind; but seeing
I was quite decided, he said that he would give me
a sauf conduit as far as Vitr^'-le-Francois, and an
introduction to a friend of his, the Sous-Prefet de la
Marne, whose official residence was there, and who
alone could, if he chose, grant me facilities for proceed-
ing further afield.

So off I started again with as usual only my ruck-
sack on my back to encumber me.

It was a glorious autumn day, and I felt in high
spirits. In the train I was seated opposite an elderly
civiHan, who started talking to me on some important

192 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

news just in from the front. After discussing the
latest battles, the weather and other topics for some
little time, I began to notice he was getting a bit
" intrigue," as the French say, as to my identity.
At last his inquisitiveness got the better of him and
he asked —

" Are you Belgian, monsieur ? "

" No/ I am English."

There was a pause, then he returned to the
attack.

" Officer ? "

" Retired Field Marshal," I replied, without hesi-
tating.

He looked a bit surprised.

" I compliment you, monsieur — j^ou still look
comparatively young."

" Yes," I answered. "In my countiy they
always retire Field Marshals while they are young."

He didn't say much after this ; I iancy he had an
idea I was taking a rise out of him.

Vitry-le-Francois, which is about halfway between
Troyes and Chalons, w as a dull and uninteresting
little provincial town, which had at one moment been
the headquarters of General Joffre, but had only a
sprinkling of troops when I was there. The tide
of war had left it high and dry and unscathed, in
curious contrast to the ruined state of Sermaize-les-
Bains, and Revigm-, close by.

The Sous-Pref et happened to be away for the day,
60 there was nothing for it but to await his return

r^-.

A WAYSIDK lOiriNC

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 193

with the patience I was gradually learning was the
most essential virtue of a correspondent in this war.

Under ordinary' conditions a small French provin-
cial town is not usually a wildly exciting place to
find oneself in, and if you know no one living there,
and there is no particular attraction to induce you
to remain, your visit is usually as brief as possible.

A couple of hours easily exhausted the few sights
of Vitry-le-Francois, and its deserted cobble-paved old
streets were very depressing, so after getting an in-
different dejeuner in a little restaurant, I esconced
myself in a corner of the principal cafe, a big barn of a
place dating back from Napoleonic days, and set to
work writing up some of my notes while I took my
coffee.

I had the place almost to myself at that hour ;
the good folk of Vitry evidently did not patronise
the establishment till later in the da}^

The gar9on appeared to be somewhat unnecessarily
interested as to my doings, and in my rucksack, which
was on the seat beside me, though this I put down
to his having nothing much to do. But there was
probably more in his curiosity than I imagined, and
it may have had some connection with the strange
incident which occurred later.

In recalling my impression of those days it has
often struck me how many times I must have been
risking serious misadventures without realizing it,
by reason of my casual disregard of the most ordinary
precautions. I was too disposed to forget the state

194 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

of extreme mental nervous tension the war had
brought about, and that, therefore, it was not
necessary for people to look at me askance to be
ill-disposed and suspicious.

I knew and liked France and French people so
much that I took it too easily for granted that where-
ever I went I should always be amongst " friendly
Zulus," and this doubtless explains much of my
impulsive recklessness in doing things at that time
that a few moments of calm reflection would have
convinced me were only likely to lead to trouble ;
though perhaps had I not so frequently acted on
impulse my wanderings would have been very mono-
tonous and uneventful. One thing, however, is
certain, I never regretted any of the little resultant
" incidents."

Well, as I have said, the gar9on — who, by the way,
was an elderly man — appeared to take a friendly
interest in my movements, so I had a bit of a chat
with him on the one and only topic, the war and how
it was progressing. It was perhaps a bit injudicious,
but after all it was onl}^ what one was reading about
in the papers every day.

Suddenly in the usual familiar French fashion
he asked me how I came to be in Vitry, and where I
was going from there. To which, of course, I gave
a non-committal reply, merely mentioning I was an
artist, and had no plans for the moment, so long as
I could find subjects to sketch and could see something
of what was going on near the front.

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 195

Then changing the conversation, I asked if he
could tell me where I could get a room for the night.
He said he was a new-comer in Vitry but would ask
the patronne ; and going over to where she sat at her
comptoir he had a talk with her for some minutes,
and returning, gave me the name of a little cafe-
restaurant, where it was almost certain I could get
fixed up. He then left me to my note-book.

I stayed on a little longer and then strolled round
to the other cafe. It was a very unfrequented and
clean little place, and I got a room without difficulty.
There was evidently no lack of accommodation in
Vitry, although it was so near the scene of operations.

I dined there, and seated next to me were two
well-dressed men, and as we had the cafe almost to
ourselves, we naturally got into conversation, and I
learned they were representatives of a big commercial
house, and were on their way to see the general of
the division with a view to obtaining permission to
open a store near the front.

They appeared to be quite genuine, and I felt quite
at my ease with them, in fact we shared a bottle of
vin superieur. One of them then asked me in a pause
in the conversation —

" Eh, vous, monsieur, vous etes journaliste, n'est
ce pas ? "

For a moment I felt inclined to ask him what
business it was of his, when I thought it better to
let it pass, and replied evasively —

" Je suia peintre."

196 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

" Well, you must find plenty of subjects round
here," he answered. " No doubt you have seen
a good deal. Where have you been ? "

It was as plain as a pikestaff what he was driving
at — they were suspicious of me. I could see the
usual irritating questions coming, and I wasn't in
the mood for it ; besides I had a perfect right to be
in Vitry, and the letter I had in my pocket for the
prefet was a guarantee in itself.

A few words would have proved my bona fides,
when it suddenly occurred to me to " pull his leg "
and mystify him a bit in return for his curiosity.

" Yes," I repUed, " I have seen a lot, and hope
to see more if I have any luck." Adding, " Well,
I must turn in now, as I am off somewhere early
to-morrow," and with that I abruptly left them.

I had a very clean and well-furnished room and
wonderfully cheap into the bargain : if I remember
rightly I only paid 1.50 for it. I had intended going
to bed at once, but there was a comfortable armchair
that invited me to sit up for a little while and have a
read, as I had an interesting book with me.

The uncertain light of the candle must have made
me drowsy and I fell asleep. Suddenly I was awakened
by a creaking noise — some one was tampering with
the door-handle. I was at once wide awake, and
waited without moving to see what was going to
happen.

But there was no further sound, so I got up and
went across to see if I had remembered to lock the

OiN THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 197

door when I had put my boots out, and to my amaze-
ment, found it was locked from the outside. I was a
prisoner !

My first impulse in my indignation was to shout
and rouse the house. Then like a flash came the
reflection, what was the good of kicking against the
pricks ? If I made a fuss, it would in all probability
end in my being removed from my room, where at
any rate I was comfortable, and having to pass the
night in less agreeable quarters.

So I decided not to take any notice of what had
happened, but go to bed and see what the morning
brought forth.

It was broad daylight when I awoke. In an
instant I recollected what had occurred, and jumping
out of bed I rushed to the door and tried it. To my
pleasant surprise it was unlocked. It had evidently
only been considered necessary to imprison me for
the night.

I dressed and went down to the cafe for breakfast.
My two companions of the previous evening were
there and greeted me, as I thought, somewhat
ironically.

" You won't get away as early as you intended,"
said one.

I thought it best not to risk any further attempt
at mystification. " No," I replied ; " I overslept
myself. But anyhow I have to see the Sous-Prcfct
before I leave, so it does not much matter."

I had the impression they exchanged glances as

198 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

I told them this, but they made no remark and shortly
after went out.

I finished my coffee and made my way to the
Sous-Prefet's which, as I have said, was close by.
I did not look round, but felt convinced I was being
shadowed the whole way.

The Sous-Prefet had returned and received me in
the most friendly and informal manner, but I could
see at once that he had an intuition that I was con-
nected with the Press, for he went out of his way,
as I thought, to inform me that he had at one time
been a journalist himself.

With genial candour he then told me that if he
had anything to say in the matter he would turn
me back there and then, as he did not believe in
correspondents being in the zone of operations.

I thought it advisable to say nothing to this,
in case he really knew all about me, though I realized
that my silence practically signified my acquiescence,
and that henceforth I could scarcely hope to be
regarded merely as a wandering artist.

His bark, however, was worse than his bite, and
in consideration of my being an Englishman, as he
put it pleasantly, he gave me a note of recommen-
dation to a high official at Bar-le-Duc, though he
warned me I was asking for trouble in attempting
to get to the Argonne.

The outlook therefore did not look very promising ;
but after all, I had come out to take chances, and if
the worst cameto the worst, I should, with any luck.

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 199

be bound to see something ; even if it meant being
turned back more or less promptly, and with more
rather than less scant ceremony, as seemed extremely
probable.

The authorities might be very alert, and the
official eyes might very soon pounce upon me, but
nothing could, I reflected, prevent my own eyes
remaining open in the meanwhile.

This thought suggested itself to me in the recol-
lection of a very amusing and intelligent method
always adopted by an enterprising journalistic
confrere in a former war, under like circumstances.

If he decided to go in a certain direction where
he knew too well it was " Verboten," and that he
was bound to be stopped and sent back sooner or
later, he would hurry along as fast as he could with-
out glancing right or left to take notice of what he
was passing, in an endeavour to get just as far as
possible before the inevitable " hold up " came.

Then, when as he had anticipated, would ensue
the usual " trouble," he would assume a bland and
childlike ignorance of any regulations forbidding
his presence in the prohibited region, and in the
sometimes considerable delay which almost invari-
ably followed, he reckoned on ample time to see all
he had come out to see.

He would then be told he must go back again ;
and this he always did in such leisurely fashion as
would give him every opportunit}' of having a good
look at the scenes of interest he had neglected when

200 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

hurrying forward. Nothing could be said to him
then — he was returning, not going !

But to return to my narrative.

I thanked the Sous-Prefet for his courtes}^ and
said that I Avas sure the letter of recommendation to
so important a personage could not fail to help me,
and that even if it did not obtain me permission to
go to the Argonne, at any rate I knew that the
Sous-Prefet would have the satisfaction of knowing he
had done his level best to assist an Englishman in
distress. Adding jokingly that perchance this self-
same letter might be the means of saving me the in-
convenience of having to face a firing party at dawn !

So I left for Bar-le-Duc that morning.

At one of the stations on the way, an exciting
incident had occurred just before we arrived. It
appeared that a train with German prisoners, amongst
whom were several officers, had stopped there for a
short time. As an act of courtesy the officers were
permitted to get out and stand on the platform.

When the signal was given that the train was
about to start, all got in at once except a burly,
truculent-looking major, smoking a pipe, who took
no notice of the warning, but continued to puff away
regardless of the calls of the station officials. " Tout
le monde en voiture — I'on part."

A little soldier, who was on sentry duty close by,
went across to the officer and touching him on the
shoulder told him politely that it was time to get
back into his compartment.

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 201

The Hun turned round with an exclamation of
rage and hit the soldier a back-hander across the face.

It was as unprovoked and cowardly a blow as
could well be imagined, but the bully had caught a
tartar, and with a vengeance.

Without a moment's hesitation, the little chap
made a spring backwards, then with a swift lunge
drove his bayonet clean through the fellow.

I could not ascertain the denouement, but it is
pretty certain that the soldier was exonerated.

At Bar-le-Duc the official to whom the Sous-
Prefet had given me the letter of introduction flatly
told me that he could not help me, and when I sug-
gested that perhaps I might have a permit to go in
the " direction " of Verdun, he simply shrugged his
shoulders — " Verdun ? " I might as well ask for a
ticket to the moon, and with about as much chance
of getting there.

There was thus no help for it but to remain in
Bar-le-Duc and trust to luck, and this I came across
in the person of the Commissaire of Police, quite a
delightful follow, who spoke English fluently, and
being fair and clean shaven looked so much like an
Englishman that there seemed nothing remarkable
in his speaking as well as he did and with so little
accent. He was affability itself, and promised to
help me all he could if it lay in his power.

In the meantime, there was plenty to interest
one in the town — military movement everj^where,
and no lack of animation. Here, as in all the other

202 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

big towns within the zone of operations, business
was flourishing.

The war was now well on into the third month,
yet the soldiers still seemed to have plenty of money
to spend. Here, also, as elsewhere, one was struck
by the orderly spirit prevailing, and the universal
cheerfulness of the troops.

In spite of the crowded state of the town — for it
was difficult to get a room at most of the hotels —
living was not expensive ; probably this was due to
the fact that Bar-le-Duc was one of the fortunate
places that had escaped occupation and sacking at
the hands of the Germans, who, however, had got
very near.

My acquaintance, the commissaire, turned out to
be a very obliging fellow who actually went out
of his way to induce the Commandant d'Etape to
give me a military laisser passer to Clermont-en-
Argonne, a most important position in the Verdun
sector, where he said I would be likely to see a good
deal of interesting military operations; though he
warned me that it was at my own risk and peril that
I undertook the journey, and that there was no
certainty of my getting there.

From this moment my big adventure, if I may so
call it — commenced.

One goes to Clermont by a small local railwa^^ the
Petit Meusien, which serves to connect outlying
villages not on the main line with Bar-le-Duc and
Verdun. In ordinary times it woiild be considered

ri<l»

WKi^yic:- '■

f-\

"^ \ \ ^

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 203

as a sort of steam tramway similar to the one between
Rheims and Dormans, but now it had assumed some
importance, and passed through the scenes of much of
the recent fighting in the region.

For civilian purposes it was ordinarily used by
farmers and the inhabitants of the small farms around,
and only those who could prove they were of the
district and had some valid reason for travelling b}-
it were granted permits. I was, therefore, particu-
larly favoured.

In big letters over the booking office was a signifi-
cant announcement to the efl'ect that no one was
allowed to go to Verdun.

Although many of the villages through which
the line passed were in ruins there seemed to be no
lack of passenger traffic, and there was such a crowd
in the carriages and so much baggage in the shape of
market baskets and so forth, that one could scarcely
move. There were two trains a day, and the country
folk evidently made the most of them.

The scenery in this part of the Argonne is depress-
ing— flat and uninteresting plains for miles, a typical
battlefield, in fact, as indeed it proved.

On either side one saw abundant evidence of the
recent fighting — long lines of trenches, huge shell
holes and the usual weird debris. Whilst still further
to emphasize the actualities of war, dotted about here
and there and everywhere were newly made graves
surmounted by primitive crosses.

It was a scene of unutterable mclanchol}' which

204 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

the weather did nothing to dispel, as it was a soaking
wet morning, and the passengers gazed through the
streaming windows in gloomy silence.

At a station named Bauzee, nearly every one got
out. It was the junction where the line branched off
to Verdun.

I was standing in the carriage waiting while
the passengers were removing their innumerable
baskets, and pondering the notice in the station
at Bar-le-Duc about no one being allowed to go to
Verdun, when like a flash the idea occurred
to me —

" Why not go there hy mistake ? " All I had to do
was to remain in the train and I should be taken on,
and then if I had any luck, I might at any rate see
Verdun and perhaps even enter it : anyhow I should
be the only journalist to have got so far. I could
not be shot for the attempt, so why not risk it ? The
" copy " I saw ahead was well worth it.

There was no time to lose in making up my mind
as the guard had already given the signal, so
without hesitation I determined to chance what
might happen and resumed my seat.

The carriage now was empty with the exception
of a soldier sitting opposite me. Some little distance
on, I thought it would be as well, in case I wanted a
witness, to follow up my idea of coming on by mis-
takCy so I asked him casually whether we should
soon arrive at Clermont.

" Clermont ! " he oj aculatcd with surprise. '* Whj',

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 205

you arc coming away from it. You should have
changed at Beauzee."

'' Mon Dieu ! " I exclaimed. " Then where does
this train go to ? "

" Verdun," he replied; " and we shall be there in
five minutes. You had better go direct to the chef de
gare as soon as you arrive and explain your mistake,
and he will probably tell you to go across to the
main-line station, and take the first train back
to Clermont."

Thanking him I gazed out of the window in
silence, as though much annoyed. At last we
reached Verdun, and I saw I was the only civilian
in the train.

Without any delay I found the station master and
showing him my pass, explained how I came to
be there. Without making any comment he said I
had better go across at once to the other station, which
was quite close by, and take the train for Clermont,
which would be leaving in a few minutes.

This was certainly disappointing, and not exactly
what I had reckoned on. However, there was no
help for it, and I had no possible excuse for non-
compliance with his suggestion. But my old friend
chance had not deserted me all the same.

At the entrance to the main-line station was a
sergeant to whom I explained my predicament, and
he let me pass without parley ; but posted by the
booking office was a truculent sentry, who absolutely
refused to let me take a ticket unless I had my sauf

206 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

conduit vised to leave Verdun. I tried to explain
what had happened, but he refused even to listen to
me.

" I can't help that — it's no business of mine.
I shall not allow you to pass here without a
permit," he said roughly.

I saw it was futile to attempt to reason with him,
and was wondering what on earth was to be done,
so I went and tackled the sergeant again, and he
told me I could easily obtain the vise at "la Place,"
just inside the entrance to the town.

*' You have plenty of time, since you can't
possibly go by this train, as the town is quite a
mile from here."

I asked if a soldier might accompany me, as I
felt that as a civilian it would be a bit too risky going
by myself. He did not, however, seem to attach the
importance to it that I did.

" I have no man I can spare to send with you,"
he replied. " Besides, it is not necessary, as you are
only going just inside the gateway."

I was hesitating, as I did not feel quite so confident
about the matter as he did, when at that moment a
soldier cyclist came along.

" Which way are you going ? " called out the
sergeant.

" To the town," was the reply.

*' Well, you will accompany this Anglais to ' la
Place ' and get his sauf conduit put in order, so that
he can remain in Verdun till his train for Clermont

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 207

leaves, and obtain another permit for him to travel
by it."

I was so elated at this possible chance of perhaps
being allowed to stay in Verdun at all, that I almost
forgot to inquire what time my train would leave.
" There is one to-night if you care to catch it, and
another at five-forty to-morrow morning. There
are only two a day for the moment," he told me,
apparently quite unconcerned as to my move-
ments.

It was then about eight o'clock in the morning, I
should, therefore, have practically the whole day to
look round, and even if forced to leave the same
evening I should at least have seen something of
Verdun.

The cyclist did not seem overjoyed at having to
walk instead of ride, as it had turned out a terrifically
hot day after the rain ; but the offer of a cigar, which
I fortunately had on me, put him in a good humour
at once — as tobacco in any form was practically
unobtainable up at the front at that time.

As we walked along I discovered he was an archi-
tect-student and lived in Paris with his mother in
tlie Rue Pigalle, at Montmartre, close to where I had
myself lived as a student for several years, and this
put us on a very friendly footing at once, and he
offered to help me find a room for the night, talcing it
for granted I was not going to catch the evening
train.

When I hinted that it was perliaps inadvisable

208 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

my being yccn walking about Verdun, he quite
pooh-poohed the idea, saying that no one would
interfere with me once I had a permit to remain,
and he was sure there would be no difficulty on that
score, now I had managed to get here.

CHAPTER XV

Verdun — Impressions of town seen from distance — Get the official vise to
my sauf conduit — My guide offers to show me round — Air of enthusiasm
and confidence everj'whero— Prosperity and confidence within sound
of the guns — A reconnoitring " Taube " — Amusing incident — An
unexpected repast — Verdun alwaj's as a sealed book — A hive of
miUtary detectives — Perfidy at instigation of German agents — A sad
example — The dead renegade — The fortifications of Verdun — Im-
possibihty to get near them — Living on edge of a volcano — My cyclist
friend takes me to a pension for lunch — The siege of Verdun in 1870 — A
chat with a veteran — I decide not to risk remaining too long — Take
room for the night — The officer who spoke English — Not perhaps a
chance meeting — Away from Verdun before daylight.

/^>^EEN from a distance, Verdun gave the
^^^ impression of a quaint old provincial town,
wjP such as one sees all over France, rather
than of an up-to-date fortress. Closer
inspection brought to view the citadel and its old-
world setting of frowning battlement and bastion,
which appealed to the artist within me with in-
describable charm.

I can recollect nothing more imposing in this way
than the Vauban ramparts and the double archway
with moat and drawbridge facing it, through which
one enters the city. There is probably no more
interesting specimen of the military architecture of
the liftecnth century to be found anywhere than the
Porte St. Paul.

209 T>

210 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

It presented a remarkable contrast to the up-to-
date motor traffic on the road. Of miHtary import-
ance in the imposing old fortifications there is
obviously none. They are interesting archaeological
relics of times when warfare was very different from
what it is these days ; nothing more ; and this is
probably why they have been left standing as a
monument to the genius of Vauban.

Inside the ramparts the change was somewhat
startling ; one found oneself in a quite commonplace,
ordinary-looking French garrison town, its narrow
streets crowded with soldiers and civilians.

I easily got the official vise to my sauf conduit, and
as I came downstairs, out of the office, I thought it
seemed easier to remain in Verdun than to get
permission to enter it. But here I was much
mistaken.

My guide, to my surprise, then invited me to
have an aperitif, and volunteered to show me some-
thing of the town before dejeuner.

It was a chance of seeing the place I had not
reckoned on, so I gladly accepted, and leaving my
rucksack in the guard-room we started off for a
stroll round. With my sauj conduit in order, I now
had nothing to worry about. After all, I was merely
a wandering English artist-scribe, and meant no
harm.

Although it was well known at the time there
might at any moment be a big attack in this sector,
one might have been hundreds of miles from the

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 211

front for all the difference the proximity of the
Germans seemed to make. There were no signs of
any apprehension on that score so far as it was
possible to judge from what one saw — there was
indeed quite an air of cheerfulness everywhere, which
was somewhat bewildering.

The delightful "promenade de la Digue had its
contingent of flaneurs, nursemaids and children,
though, of course, there was no longer any music,
and it is certain that neither the Rue Mazel nor the
Rue de I'Hotel de Ville could have looked livelier in
peace time.

All the shops appeared to be doing a roaring trade,
thus confirming the impression of a flourishing
business place rather than of an important military
position. In fact, I learned that the only obstacle
to the making of large fortunes out of the boom was
due to the difficulty of obtaining fresh supplies of
goods rather than of any difficulty in selling them —
and this applied to everything. Even the fahriques
de lingerie, for which Verdun was famed, were unable
to cope with the sales ; while for the celebrated
bonbons, known as Dragees de Verdun, there was a
continuous demand with which it was impossible for
the makers to keep pace.

All this prosperity and confidence within sound
of the big guns was a positive revelation, and had
I not seen it for myself I could never have believed it.

As an instance of the cheery optimism prevailing,
I recall something curious that occurred whilst we

212 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

were walking round. A wandering reconnoitring
" Taube " came over without attracting much more
than casual glances skyward, for it was evidently
looked upon as quite an ordinary occurrence.
Suddenty the loud report of an explosion was heard
close by. A little crowd, of course, started running
towards the spot to see what had happened.

It was then discovered that a bomb had dropped
in the river. Beyond, however, a few panes of
glass round about being broken by concussion, no
damage had been done ; but the consequences had
been dire for the fish, and hundreds of them, stunned
by the force of the explosion, were to be seen floating
on the surface of the river.

In quite remarkably quick time, amid much
laughter and merriment, boats appeared full of
women and children with basins and baskets to
take advantage of the unexpected repast that
presented itself. Meanwhile, all eyes were on the
novel scene on the river, and the " Taube," which
by this time was being chased by a French machine,
was quite forgotten.

In spite, however, of this apparent insouciance,
there was the usual atmosphere of suspicion of
perambulating foreigners, which made one feel very
chary of being seen taking too much interest in what
was going on around you.

That the authorities had to be constantly on their
guard against unauthorized visitors was, of course,
only as might have been expected, but it struck one

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 213

tliat an actual spy, even if successful in getting inside
the town, would have been able to find out very little
in Verdun itself, for the reason that even to the
inhabitants themselves the place and its surround-
ings, from a military point of view, have always been
as a sealed book.

That treachery did exist in many places that were
near to the German lines is well know^n, but Verdun
was such a veritable hive of agents de la Surete
Militaire that it seemed as though it would have
been ahnost an impossibility for any stranger to get
into the place and remain there for even an hour
without the fact being known at headquarters.

There were, however, I learned, occasional
instances of perfidy at the instigation of German
agents ; sometimes, indeed, for the sake of a paltry
few hundred francs; which by reason of peculiar
attendant conditions the police were powerless to
cope with. A volume, I was told, could have been
written on the stratagems tried by the highly paid
agents of the Kaiser in order to obtain some know-
ledge of the situation of the defences of Verdun.
Some of them might never have come to hglit but
for some fortuitous occurrence such as is illustrated
in the following incident.

One day a " Taubc " dropped several bombs on
the town, and one of them exploded in the centre
of a street, killing a little child and inflicting frightful
injuries on a young woman who was with it.

She lay groaning and writhing in agony in the

214 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

roadway while an ambulance was being fetched to
carry her to the hospital. But on its arrival a strange
thing happened : she struggled with all her fast-
waning strength against being taken, protesting that
she was not seriously hurt, and wanted to go to her
home. No heed, however, was paid to her delirious
ravings, as they were thought to be, and she was
taken direct to the hospital, where she lost conscious-
ness on arrival, and died shortly after.

On searching her for some clue as to her identity
a number of papers were found concealed in her dress,
which established beyond the slightest doubt that
she was a spy ; the saddest part of the story being,
as it turned out, that she was of French nationality,
and had been living in a state of affluence for
some time previously on the proceeds of her
infamy.

Knowing how little had been allowed to transpire
with regard to the disposition of the troops or the
defences of Verdun, one could not help wondering
what sort of information it was this renegade had
contrived to obtain and sell to the enemy.

Verdun itself presented no features of interest
apart from the citadel ; here and there was a
picturesque spot, especially along the river-banks,
where were some quaint old houses, but of buildings
of historic interest there were none of importance.
The cathedral and Hotel de Ville were of some
antiquarian interest, but both had been much
restored. The BibUotheque, which was said to

Al" A SIKKKT ((TKNKR IN \KKIirN

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 215

contain many valuable manuscripts, was com-
paratively modern.

If, therefore, a considerable portion of the town
has been destroyed, its loss from an artistic point of
v4ew is not to be compared with that of the cities
of Belgium, and it will surely arise Phoenix-like
from its ashes, as it did after the siege of 1870, but
under different conditions.

I was not long in making the discovery that
unless something of an interesting character chanced
to happen by accident whilst I was at Verdun, there
was really very little actually to see in connection
with the military operations taking place in the
vicinity.

This absence of any parade of military strength
was to me very disappointing, as I had hoped to get
some interesting sketches; but it was this placid
appearance that has, I have since learned, always
been a distinguishing characteristic of the famous
fortress.

The immense strength of the modern fortifica-
tions was not en evidence, for the simple reason that
these were mostly some distance from the town,
hidden along the hills of the Hants de Mouse towards
the frontier, and so skilfully concealed as to be
indistinguishable from their surroundings.

Yet all these works were connected in some way,
and formed part and parcel of one vast line of
defences, though one had to rely on hearsay as to
the nature of these, it being quite out of the question

216 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

even to make an attempt to get anywhere near, so
I was told, unless one was not pressed for time in
regard to getting away again ! Civilian pedestrians
were not exactly hail-fellow-well-met in the zone of
the Verdun forts in those days.

I must confess, moreover, I was not particularly
anxious to try my luck too far. It was already
something to find myself in Verdun at all ; and I was
resolved that in case I was being shadowed, as was
quite possible, I would do nothing to raise any doubt
as to my bona fides as an Englishman, and therefore
a friend.

I walked about, it is true, with my eyes open,
being careful not to evince anything but the most
casual interest in my surroundings; though I will
admit I was devoutly hoping all the time for some-
thing to happen that would give me the chance of
remaining some time in Verdun. If only the
Germans would start their expected attack, then
it might be impossible for me to get away.

One felt that underlying all this apparently
casual everyday life there must be a good deal worth
studying, the more especially that one was practically
living on the very edge of a volcano which might
burst into eruption at any moment.

I had the sensation one has upon visiting Naples
for the first time, and when gazing with fascination
at the everlasting column of smoke rising lazily
from the summit of Vesuvius, one hopes for the
good fortune of witnessing the sudden bursting into

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 217

activity of the volcano. But the smoke always
continues to ascend into the blue skv, a reminder
of the pent-up force below, but with no further
indication of anything terrible going to happen at
once.

And so it was with Verdun. The big guns
continued to boom in the distance ceaselessly, like
the beating of surf against a rock-bound coast, with
no visible change in their volume of sound, till one
almost wondered at the necessit}^ for all this
apparently aimless expenditure of ammunition;
for which, however, there were doubtless veiy solid
reasons, which one could not ascertain in the
town.

After wandering round for some time, and seeing
practically all there was to see, my cyclist friend
suggested taking me to a little quiet restaurant,
where he usually lunched, and where he said I should
not attract too much attention.

It was a sort of pension where the same men,
mostly Government employees, foregathered twice a
day for their meals. He introduced me to the
crowd — there were about a dozen men there when we
arrived — as an English artist, and I was at once
made welcome and told that I could come there to
feed whenever I chose.

The lunch and wine were quite excellent, proving
that Verdun was not suffering from any lack of
supplies or even luxuries, while the prices were as
low as they could ever have been in pre-war days.

218 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

As we sat over our coffee and cigarettes after-
wards, the conversation naturally reverted to the
war and the imminent peril of a massed German
attack on Verdun, and I had a long and interesting
chat on the subject with my neighbour at table, a
veteran who was among Verdun's defenders through-
out the 1870 investment. He told me that whatever
happened to Verdun now could not well be worse
than what its defenders suffered forty years ago.
There were not three thousand troops in the garrison
when the place was invested by the Prussians, and
all hope lay in relief being sent by Bazaine from
Metz.

As the days wore on it gradually leaked out that
Metz had surrendered, and all chance of relief was
gone, so there was nothing for it but to put up as
good a defence as possible. It was known that the
Prussians had announced their determination to
capture Verdun within three days ; but it took them
three months to break down the resistance of its
gallant defenders, who endured terrible sufferings
from hunger and the continuous bombardment.
Every man and boy able to shoulder a rifle had taken
his share in the defence of the town.

It is recorded that the old King of Prussia, who
w^as present when the end at last came and the
resistance of Verdun was over, was so impressed
by the heroism of the garrison that he sent word he
was prepared to grant exceptional conditions ; and
it was agreed that the garrison should march out with

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 219

all their accoutrements and belongings, that on the
conchision of peace Verdun should be returned to
France, and that no indemnity should ever be
claimed from the town. This was practically the
only redeeming feature of the 1870 war, which was,
as it is to-da}', one long record of Prussian inhumanity.

A whole day in Verdun quite exhausted all there
was to see of interest there, and the more especially
as it was, as I have pointed out, but a very ordinary
provincial garrison town.

There was thus no excuse for my remaining much
longer, since I had not come to ferret out military
secrets.

I felt intuitively I should be burning my boats
with a vengeance if I ventured to go to the authorities
and ask for a permit to remain a few days in the
town. It almost made me shiver to think what
would happen if I did anything so foolish.

As a matter of fact, I had been on tenterhooks
several times during the afternoon, when walking
round, although my companion assured me I had no
cause to be at all apprehensive if people looked at me
with curiosity at times, the reason being merely, he
said, that they were not accustomed to seeing
foreigners at that time.

I did not, however, feel at all comfortable, and
whenever I saw a gendarme coming towards us
my heart jumped into my mouth.

Since nothing was to be gained b}^ my staying
on, I decided, tliercforc, to take a bed for the night

220 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

and to leave for Clermont by the first train in the
morning.

To find a room was not difficult, and I invited
my friend to dine with me ; but as he had to be back
in barracks by eight o'clock, he was obliged to leave
me afterwards in charge of some one to show me my
way back to my lodging, which was at a modest
cafe in a back street of the centre of the town.

When I got in I saw an officer reading at a table.
He looked me up and down with obvious interest,
and I returned him the compliment. Suddenly, to
my surprise, he began to speak to me in excellent
English, asking me in a free and easy style if I was
an Englishman, and telling me that he had lived many
years in England, and was always glad of a chance of
speaking to a Britisher again.

We had quite a long chat together, and I gave him
my card, and he promised to look me up some day
in London. But when I got up to my room it
dawned upon me that he had been skilfully cross-
examining me all the time, and that our meeting
was not such a chance one as it seemed to be.
However, confident in the value of the vise on my
sauf conduit, I felt no apprehension.

Still something prompted me to give instructions
to be called earlier than I had at first intended, as
I thought it advisable to get away before day-
light.

It was still quite dark when I furtively left my
lodging, and rapidly wended my wa}^ towards the

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 221

railwa}^ station. The Porte St. Paul was just being
opened for the day.

To my intense rehef the sentry on guard merely
glanced at my papers and allowed me to pass through
the frowning portal without raising an}^ difficulty.

At the booking-office my permit secured me a
ticket at once. Very few officers were about at
that early hour, and apparently no one took any
particular notice of me. The train was almost
empty, and I got a compartment to myself.

As we steamed slowly out of the station I some-
how had the feeling that I had not yet entirely done
with Verdun.

CHAPTER XVI

At Clermont-cn-Argonne — A little unpleasantness with a big gendarme —
The quarters of the General of the 5th Corps d'Armde — The Com-
mandant of gendarmes — Inflexibility of general ; I must leave at once
• — A sudden diversion — The duel in the air — A measure initiated by
the Germans — Exciting moment — Am " conducted to rear of troops"
■ — St. Menehould — Courteous gendarme officer — A friendly action —
]My custodian — Lunch at the hotel — A httle episode — Leave St.
Menehould — Arrive Revigny — Decide break journey here and remain
night — Another little episode — An unexpected meeting in the morning
— A " Commissaire Special de Police " — Learn I am his prisoner —
Geniality of my gaoler — The telephone message — A snapshot — Arrival
Bar-le-Duc — On parole — The decision of the Conseil de Guerre at
Verdun — Am to be taken back to Paris under arrest.

THE guns were booming close by, when we
at length drew up at a small wayside
station at the foot of a hill on which one
could see the ruins of a big village.
This was Clermont-en-Argonne.

There was no one to worry about my ticket, and
I was hesitating as to which way to leave the station
when a huge gendarme wearing a helmet came up
and asked me roughly what I was doing there, and
if I belonged to the village. For reply I produced my
sauf conduit, telling him at the same time I was an
Englishman.

" I don't want to see it," he said ; " I'm not going
to argue with you, you can't stop here, that's all I've

222

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 223

got to say. So you will have to get back into the
train again and be off at once."

I made up my mind instantly that I was not going
to get back into the tram if I could help it, so I
waited where I was till it had gone. Then walking
up to the big man, I touched him on the arm and
asked softly, "If he would be so complaisant as to
direct me to the headquarters of the general ? "
The look on his face when he saw me still there was a
picture.

" I thought I told you that you could not remain
here," he almost shouted at me.

" Yes, I heard you say something about it," I
replied ; " but as my permit is quite in order I should
at least like to show it before I leave."

At this juncture two officers came along, and asked
what the trouble was about, and what I was doing
there.

After examining my sauf conduit and asking me
a few questions, they told the gendarme to take me
up to the Etat Major, So he had to go with me
whether he liked it or not, and I could not help
laughing to myself at his discomfiture.

Up the hill towards the village we went.

The scene on either side was as busy as an ant-
heap with warlike activity, and presented a cowp
d'oRil that would have delighted a painter of military
subjects. I could have found sufficient to fill m}^
sketch-book several times over ; but, of course, I
could not stop for the merest jotting.

224 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

More than half the picturesque village was in
ruins, but in one of the biggest houses which was
undamaged, a seminary I think it had been before,
were the quarters of the General of the 5th Corps
d'Armee. I was received by the Commandant of
Gendarmerie and several officers who were standing
round the doorway with the utmost cordiality.

I explained to the commandant my object in
coming there, and after he had examined my papers
and passport he said he would take them to the
general and s^Dcak to him about it. Whilst awaiting
his return I had an interesting chat with the official
interpreter, a young officer who had been at Oxford,
and spoke English perfectly.

I was not kept long in suspense. The general's
reply was courteous but inflexible. He could not
allow me to remain at Clermont : I was to leave by the
first train.

Suddenly the report of a gun close by was heard,
and a " Taube " was seen coming over with a French
biplane in hot pursuit.

A train of ammunition caissons was going by at
the moment. An officer rushed out into the roadwa}^
and, holding up his hand, shouted a command.

The horses were pulled up and the whole column
stood stock still — it might have been suddenly turned
to stone. All the officers and men standing around
me either dived into the nearest cover or remained
immovable and flattened against the walls, spread^
eagle fashion — and, of course, I followed suit.

^ ^j^

'jp -•»*

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 225

This manoeuvre, I was informed, was initiated by
the Germans and given out in one of their early
orders to troops, " On observing an enemy aeroplane
coming towards you, every movement has to be
instantly stopped, and everything has to remain
stationary till the machine has passed out of sight."

Meanwhile the " Taube " hovered placidly high
overhead, apparently quite unperturbed by the shots
from the biplane and the bursting shells from the
guns. It gave one a wonderful impression of the
coolness of the pilot. Unfortunately we were not
long able to follow the phases of the combat, as the
two machines soon went out of sight and disappeared
behind the hill, but not before the " Taube " had
dropped three or four bombs, which, fortunately
fell among ruins, where they exploded harmlessly.
For some minutes the firing of the guns became
fainter and fainter, everything remaining motionless
in the roadway until the sound of the duel had died
away in the distance.

I learned that the interpreter was going in a car
to St. Menehould during the morning ; this was on
my way back, and on my expressing the desire to
accompany him instead of waiting for the train,
he said he would gladly take me if the Commandant
of Gendarmes had no objection to me passing
through the lines.

The commandant was geniality personified, and
made out a permit accordingly. It stated, however,
unequivocally that I was being " conducted " to

226 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

the rear of the troops, and this was my first intima-
tion that I was not a free agent in the matter.

It was a pleasant and interesting run, as there
was plenty to see on either side of the road ; but
my companion was not disposed to be talkative —
perhaps he was acting on instructions, so I had
perforce to refrain from any comment on subjects
connected with the troops we were passing. I
managed, however, to " memorize " a pathetic little
spectacle I witnessed.

The funeral of a soldier who had, I learned, died
of his wounds in hospital. There was no coffin : the
body lay on some straw in a peasant's cart and was
covered with a flag. The priest was an ordinary
soldier and had a surplice over his uniform. (It
may be of interest to mention in this connection
that thousands of erstwhile priests were serving in
the army, and many of them accomplished gallant
deeds in the fighting line.) Two ambulance men
with reversed rifles followed the cart, and a peasant
was leading the ox drawing it.

At St. Menehould there was a slight formality to
be gone through ; I was handed over to the officer
in command of the gendarmerie there. He was as
courteous and amiable as his confrere at Clermont.

It was just upon one o'clock, " You will want
some dejeuner,^'' he said, " and if you will give me
your parole not to talk to any one, soldier or civilian,
3^ou are at liberty to have it in the hotel where all
the officers go." Of course I gave him m}^ parole,

-'\«5^

'/■;

'as

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 227

but pointed out it was quite unnecessary, as he could
rely on my discretion. Whereat he replied signifi-
cantly, "It is your business to be indiscreet,
monsieur."

He then sent for a non-commissioned officer to
show me the way to the hotel, giving him instruc-
tions that he was to wait for me till I had finished,
and then to conduct me to the railway station, as I
was to catch a certain train in the afternoon.

" I am putting you in charge of a Custom-
House non-commissioned officer," he added with a
friendly smile, " as I do not want to expose you to
the indignity of being accompanied by a gendarme ;
no one will pay any attention to you thus."

My novel custodian, who turned out to be a very
decent fellow, allowed me to enter the hotel by
myself, and announced his intention of waiting for
me in the street.

The restaurant was packed with officers, and as I
could not find a seat in the niain room, a table was
placed for me in the entrance lounge.

There was not the slightest suggestion of any
pre-arrangemcnt in this, but I had scarcely sat
down when an officer, a major I think he was, came
up and asked me politely if I had any objection
to his sharing my table. Of course I could not
refuse, though somehow it struck me that he was
not sitting with me by mere accident, and the idea
that my parole was being tested irritated me to such
an extent that when, as 1 expected, he commenced

228 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

to open a conversation he must certainly have
gained a very unfavourable impression of the manners
and sociability of my countrymen, as I purposely
made my replies as curt as I could possibly make
them.

During lunch, therefore, I had ample time to
consider what my later course of action should be.
Adventure is all very well if one achieves the object
aimed at; but it ends by palling if you have to
be constantly on the qui vive, and getting no
*' forrarder." Moreover, I was tiring just a little
bit of living as it were in an atmosphere of continual
suspicion.

It was now a question whether I returned to
Bar-le-Duc or went back to Troyes to spend a few
days there in the comfortable hotel, where I should
be able to get on with my accumulation of work.
I decided to toss up for it by calling " head " or
" tail " to the first coin I pulled out of my pocket,
and Troyes won.

After lunch, as there was no need to hurry, I
sauntered slowly to the station with my guard.
Evidently he had received instructions to treat me
with the utmost deference, for he insisted on carrying
my bag, took my ticket, found me a corner seat and
waited on the platform till the train started. As far
as I was aware I went on unshepherded.

At Revigny there was a wait of two hours, so,
as I wanted to have a look at the place, and it was
rather late, I asked the station-master whether I

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 229

might break my jouriic}^ by remaining there for the
night, and catching my train the following da}.
He made no objection, so I went to the Cafe-Restau-
rant de la Gare just outside the station to get some
dinner, and found they could let me have a room.

Tliis was fortunate, as the village was practically
in ruins, and this w^as the only cafe intact. I had a
stroll round after dinner, but there was very little
to see beyond heaps of rubble and charred timbers ;
certainly nothing to induce me to prolong my stay,
nor even to remain up late, so I turned in in good
time.

I was undressing leisurely when I heard my door
open, and turning round to see who it was entering
so unceremoniously, to my astonishment I saw an
officer of gendarmerie. Without beating about the
bush, or apologizing for his intrusion, he walked
straight over to me and said abruptl}-, " You have
papers with you, I presume ? Let me see them."

" Certainly," said I, " and with pleasure." Going
over my pocket I produced all the documents which
had already seen so much service, and which were
now beginning to show evident signs of wear and
tear.

He took them up and examined them one by one
without making any comment, then to my surprise
he folded them up carefully and coolly placed them
in his pocket.

" They will be returned to you to-morrow," he
said curtlv.

230 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

" But I am leaving to-morrow morning for
Troyes."

" Indeed ? By what train ? "

" The 9.30."

" The}^ will be returned to you before you start.
I have the honour to salute you," and with that he
turned on his heels and left the room.

Needless to add, I could do nothing in the
matter ; I was completely helpless, but it may be
imagined how irritating it was to feel that I had not
got a single paper of identity on me, although I
felt pretty confident that unless there was some
reason for depriving me of them, they would be
returned to me as promised the following morning.

Any glimmer of doubt I might have had on that
score was set at rest fortunately, for at eight o'clock,
as I was getting up, there was a knock at the door,
and a man came in and handed me the precious
documents. They were not even in an envelope,
and might have been " scraps of paper " of no
importance whatever. It was certainly very un-
conventional, especially as any one in the house
might have read them, although it is true it would
not have mattered very much, probably, if they
had.

When I came down to my breakfast there was a
smartish-looking man seated in the cafe reading a
paper.

He hailed me with a cheery " Bon jour, Monsieur
Price."

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 231

I was quite taken aback for a moment. Although
I seemed to remember his face, for the Hfe of me I
could not place it. Then I suddenly recollected that
I had seen him in the office of the Commandant
d'Etape at Bar-le-Duc on the day when I had been
given my saitj conduit. I had not the remotest
idea who he was, but it somehow struck me at once
as a remarkable coincidence that I should meet him
here again of all places, and he must have noticed
my surprise.

He did not leave me long in doubt, as will be
seen.

" Who would have thought of meeting 3^ou
here ? " said I, as he shook me cordially by the hand,
and I sat down at his table to take m}^ cafe-au-lait.

" Yes," he replied with a laugh, "it is rather
curious. I had a sudden fancy to spend a few hours
in Revigny, and see what the Boche had left of it.
And you — what are you doing here ? "

" Oh, I'm going by the 9.30 to Troyes," I replied.

" Catch a later train, and we will have a pleasant
morning down here together."

I told him that I had already seen all that there
was to see in the place, and there was realty nothing
worth missing the train for.

" But if I say I should like you to stay and have
lunch with me — won't you ? "

His insistence aroused my suspicions. Suddenly
it flashed through my mind that perhaps his being
there was not so adventitious as appeared, so I

232 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

asked him straight out if I was obliged to stay with
him.

" To put it frankly — ^yes," he repHed.

" Suppose I refuse ? " I asked.

" But you will not, I am sure, when I explain the
reason. You were surprised to see me ? "

I admitted I was.

" Well, I may as well tell you at once that I have
come expressly to ask you not to write or mention
anything of what you saw in Verdun or Clermont —
for the moment at any rate; there has been some
misunderstanding about the sauf conduit given to you
at Bar-le-Duc."

I naturally started to question him, and then
elicited the particulars of the mystery of my arrest.
It appeared, as far as I could make out, that the
Commandant d'fitape forgot to tell his colonel that
he had given me the permit.

My movements after leaving Bar-le-Duc had
aroused suspicion. Headquarters had been com-
municated with, and the colonel called upon to
explain on what ground I had been given a sauf
conduit. He naturally replied that he knew nothing
of it ; so an order was at once telegraphed all over
the district " to arrest as soon as possible a so-called
English correspondent travelling with forged passport
and papers."

In proof of this my friend, who turned out to be
a " Commissaire Special de Police," produced his
telegraphic instructions, which gave my age and

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 233

general description. " Of course," he added, smiling,
" I know there is nothing against you, as I was
present when you were given a sauf conduit^ but I
must obey orders."

" And those are ? "

" To detain you here pending instructions by
telephone from Verdun."

Then I am your prisoner ? " I said.
Well," he replied amicably, " we won't put it
like that. Let us say we are going to be good com-
panions for a few hours. Now let me offer j^ou a
cigarette, and w^e will stroll up to the telephone office
and find out if anything has come through."

It was certainly duress of the most friendly
character, but I felt instinctively there was no
nonsense about it, I was a detenu all the same.

The telephone was in the post-office, one of the
very few buildings that had escaped the bombard-
ment.

My comx^anion went in, leaving me outside. A
minute afterwards he returned and said, " No news
yet, but don't wait out there — come in. It doesn't
matter if you hear what I have to say, it is no
secret." So I stood at the door of the telephone box.

He asked to be put through to a certain bureau
in Verdun, and without any delay got through.
He turned round and looked at me facetiously, as
though the whole thing was a joke.

" Is that you, mon commandant ? . . . Speaking
. . . from RovigTiy. ... I only rang you up to toll

234 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

you I've got him . . . found him here. . . . He's
with me now. . . . Quite a nice fellow : I already
knew him at Bar-le-Duc. . . . We are getting along
capitally together . . . and he is going to lunch with
me. . . . Yes, I am waiting further instructions. . . .
Bon jour, mon commandant," and he put back the
receiver. Then turning to me said, " Well, that's
done. Now we'll have a look round the village
and then go to lunch. Probably I shall get a message
later and shall know when we can leave."

We lunched very leisurely, since there was no
object in hurrying, and afterwards had another
walk round, when some one he knew at the telegraph
office, who happened to have a camera, took a snap-
shot of us standing side by side.

I have often wondered whether this was merely
as a friendly memento of our day spent together, or
as a possible future record to be placed in the
criminal archives of the Prefecture of Police !

It was late in the afternoon when my companion
informed me that I was to be taken to Bar-le-Duc
to await further instructions. By this time we were
quite like old friends, and had passed a really very
pleasant day together. Whether he had received
orders to the effect, or whether it was his natural
amiability, of course I could not know, but his one
idea seemed to be to render my detention as little
irksome as possible.

When we got to Bar-le-Duc he told me I might
stay at the hotel I already knew, if I gave him my

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 235

word not to put pen to paper or speak to any one
about my position ; to which, of course, I agreed ; and
he asked me also particularly not to go too far from
the hotel if I went for a walk in case he wanted me
suddenly. It appeared they were waiting the
decision of the Generalissimo as to what was going to
be done with me ; so I was, therefore, left on m}?^
own at Bar-le-Duc with the unpleasant feeling that
I was no longer free — invisible chains held me.

I had been loafing about aimlessly for a couple of
da3^s, seeing my *' gaoler " only occasionally, and
feeling very fed up with it all, when at last he turned
up and told me some one was being sent especially
from Verdun to take me to Paris to get me identified
at the Embassy or the Consulate, and then to the
Conseil de Guerre at the Invalides. So the matter
had not lost anything in importance by being
delayed, and I must admit that I now began to feel
just a trifle uncomfortable as to what would be the
result of my adventure.

CHAPTER XVII

From Bar-le-Duc to Paris in custody — My new gaoler— His courtesy with
regard to my baggage — A cheery dejeuner — At the station — The
greatness thrust upon me — Farewell to the Commissaire Special of
Police — A little memento of my duress— En route— Humorous
incident — The lost revolver — Supper at Troyes — My old friend the
commissaire turns up — The fateful telegram — I am described as a
" German spy " — Friendship of the two men towards me — I do my
custodian a good turn — Arrival Paris — " An EngHshman will not
break his word " — Taken to the Embassy — Sir Henry Austin Lee —
At the Invalides — On parole for eight days — Major Brett the Provost
Marshal — Free once more.

''M going to take you to lunch to-day at a little
restaurant I usually go to, as I want to
introduce you to your new travelling com-
panion," said the Commissaire de Police
genially, as we sat over a vermouth in the cafe
attached to the hotel. " He's a very good fellow,
and I feel sure you will get on well together."

As we waited in the restaurant for him to turn
up I could not help wondering what sort of man he
would be, picturing to myself a typical agent de la
surete — hard and unbending, who would not be in
the least likely to understand my position, and be
prepared only to carry out his instructions to the
very letter — when a tall, good-looking young fellow
in a smart motoring costume and a heav}' fur coat

236

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 237

came in, and spotting the commissaire came over to
our table.

My anxiety as to what sort of person my new
gaoler would be like was immediately dispelled, for
he was as unlike one's conception of a plain clothes
officer as could be imagined ; and as it turned out his
looks did not belie him, and my journey to Paris
in his custody proved quite as pleasant a little episode
as my day of detention in Revigny.

It was arranged that we should leave by a train
that arrived at Paris at 4.30 in the morning, when
I suddenly remembered that I had left all my baggage
at Troyes.

On consulting a time-table we discovered that
by going by a different route there was a stoppage
at Troyes long enough for us to have supper there
and get my belongings, arriving in Paris about
six o'clock in the morning, a much more sensible
and convenient hour ; so I suggested going by the
later train if it would not make any difference in the
arrangements for my journey.

My new custodian fell in with this proposal
without the slightest demur, in fact, he was so nice
about it in his evident desire to please me, that I
could not help contrasting in my mind his courtesy
with my experiences on one or two of the similar
occasions I have described.

Our dejeuner turned out quite a cheery little
affair, and the excellence of the food and the wine
helped considerably to make it rather a festive event

238 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

than a prelude to a very serious matter. No reference
whatever was made to my position, or what was
likely to happen at the end of my journey, and we
finished up with coffee, liqueurs, and cigars in quite
the usual friendly fashion.

At the station I had a lively feeling of the great-
ness that had been thrust upon me : a first-class
compartment with the blinds drawn down had been
reserved for me, while pacing the platform in front
of it was a sentry with rifle and fixed bayonet.

Of course the commissaire came to see us off,
and I believe he was genuinely sorry to see me go, as
we had become quite camarade during the few days
we had known each other, and the friendly words
he scribbled on my card at parting remain an
interesting memento of a few days in the hands of a
very courteous gaoler.

i^u. Kf' ^

^e-cey- /)

The Illustrated London news-

As soon as we were started my companion said,
" There is no reason why we should not have as

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 239

pleasant journey as possible," and suiting action
to words, he proceeded to divest himself of his
heavy fur coat and a huge revolver he carried on his
belt, placing the revolver carefully on the rack just
over his head.

This quite ordinary occurrence would not be
worth mentioning, but for what happened a little
further on when we had to change trains. We had
scarcely settled down in our new carriage when
my companion discovered he had forgotten his
revolver.

Of course, he was very much annoyed, as it
appeared it was a brand new service one, and at the
next stop he rushed out and telephoned to intercept
the other train. But he never got his revolver back
again. In those early days of the war it was far too
useful a " find."

The humorous side of the incident particularly
struck me, and while condoning with him on his
loss, I could not refrain from pulling his leg ; assuring
him on my word o^ honour he had nothing to fear
from me, notwithstanding my knowledge that he
was unarmed and that I was a desperate man,
prepared to stick at nothing !

We had over two hours to wait at Troyes, so
there was ample time to go to the hotel, have supper
as arranged, and collect my baggage.

We were halfway through the meal when the
proprietor came in and told me that my old friend
the Commissaire de Police was outside, and wished

240 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

to speak to me privately on a most urgent matter,
and would I come to him at once.

It struck me as curious that he should have got
to know I had arrived in Troyes, considering I had
only been there about a quarter of an hour. However,
I told my companion what a good friend of mine he
was, and asked if he would mind my inviting him to
come in and join us, to which he readily agreed,

I found the commissaire waiting in the corridor
with an open telegram in his hand. He seemed
somewhat constrained in his manner, and not so
pleased to see me as I had expected him to be.

" I regret to interrupt your supper, but I have
something most pressing to tell you," he said,
without even offering to shake hands with me.

" Oh, never mind that," I replied; "you had
better come in and tell me whatever you have to
say in front of my companion — or, rather, my
gaoler."

*' What do you say, your gaoler ? " he repeated
in surprise. I then in a few words told him what
had happened to mc, and how I came to be in
Troyes.

" How extraordinary ! " he ejaculated : " this is
what I have come to see you about ; " and then he
handed me the telegram. " Ecad that," he said ;
and in it I read that he was instructed to arrest me
at once if I came that way. In the wire I was
described as Julius M. Rice, a German spy, travelling
ivith forged English passport and papers.

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 241

" I warned you what would happen if you would
persist in going where you had no right to go," he
said, with the first gleam of a smile.

Then he came in with me, and I introduced him
to my companion, and they talked over the whole
business as confreres.

" Of course," said my Troyes friend, " I know
that Mr. Price is neither German nor a spy." And
my travelling companion acquiesced, saying, that
of course everything would turn out all right ; that he
personally was quite enjoying the journey, and that
he hoped he was not making it too irksome for me,
as he had received official instructions to treat me
with every possible consideration.

Then when the time came to return to the station,
the hotel porter being away, the two of them insisted
on carrying my luggage between them to the train,
where I was again put into a first-class compartment
with the blinds drawn.

This little interlude had the natural effect of
putting my companion and myself on still more
friendly terms than before, and as we went along I
learned from him that he had only been married just
before the war broke out, and had spent but a few
days with his wife when he had had to leave her lo
go to Verdun on service, and had not been able to see
her since.

This trip to Paris was, therefore, a big stroke of
unexpected good fortune for him, and he had wired
her that he was coming home, and was eagerly

242 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

looking forward to spending a day with her ; but he
only had forty-eight hours' leave, and would not have
much time to spare after he had done with me.

This confession of his suggested to me a way of
doing him a turn, for he was really a very nice
young fellow, and had done his utmost to be agreeable
to me ; so I asked him point blank what he proposed
doing when we reached Paris, and he replied that,
of course, he would have to remain with me until
he had carried out all his instructions and handed
me over finally to the officials at the Invalides.

" Well," I said, '' I'll tell you what I'll do if
you will agree to it. You would, I know, like to
go straight away to your wife, since every hour
counts. I propose staying in my usual quarters in
the Rue Tronchet ; if you care to trust me, I give
you my word that I will go straight there from the
Gare de I'Est, and wait for you until you come to
fetch me during the morning."

He looked positively delighted at the suggestion,
and I could see he was genuinely grateful to me for
having thought of him. After a moment's hesitation,
as though weighing in his mind whether he dared
take the risk, he said, " Yes, I will trust you. I know
you are an Englishman, and an Englishman will not
break his word."

So it was arranged : I went to my hotel, and at
ten o'clock he turned up to take me to the Embassy
to be identified.

The Ambassador happened to be away, and I

ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE 243

sent in my card, and we were received by Sir Henry
Austin Lee, to whom I was already known. He was
naturally very much surprised when I told him of
my predicament, and who it was accompanied me,
and for what purpose I had been brought to the
Embassy.

Turning to my companion. Sir Henry, without a
moment's hesitation, made some very complimentary
remarks in reference to my identification, which I
will not repeat. He then gave me a letter of intro-
duction to a French Staff Officer at the Invalides,
who could, he said, help me out of my trouble if the
authorities did not take too serious a view of my
escapade.

At the Invalides the letter had a magic effect,
and I was told I should be released provisionally on
my signing an undertaking giving my parole cfJionneiir
not to let a written or spoken word escape me for
eight days, on anything I had seen or heard in Verdun.
Needless to add I signed this unhesitatingly.

I spent the time working up some sketches and
writing a short narrative of my adventure, which I
took to the Invalides to be censored when the eight
days had expired.

No difficulty whatever was made in passing them,
and the official censor's stamps were duly affixed.
I was then taken to the office of Major Brett, the
Provost Marshal, for the addition of the British
stamps. Then I was free.

As I was about to leave the room Major Brett

244 ON THE PATH OF ADVENTURE

asked me if I had made any plans for my future
movements. I replied that I had thought of going
to the English front. He looked at me for a moment,
and then said grimly —

" I wouldn't if I were you — unless you are looking
for more trouble ! "

It was just over four months since I'd left Paris,
and feeling a bit " fed-up " with adventure for the
moment, I took the hint.

THE LIBRARY
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA

Santa Barbara

THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE
STAMPED BELOW.

Series 9482

UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY

AA 000 293 599 7

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Full text of "On the path of adventure"

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