THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
O 11 D N A iN C E
GAZETTEER OF SCOTLAND:
A SURVEY OF SCOTTISH TOPOGliAFHY,
Statistical, §iagntpTrir;tl, iiiiiJ fjistaiicil
EDITED BY
FRANCIS H. GROOME,
A.SSISTANT KDITOK OF ' Til K CI.OBE ENCYf'LOI'.Eni.V. '
rvN^^s^^^^,
VOLUME II.
E D I N B U E G II :
THOMAS C. JACK, GRANGE PUBLISHING WORKS.
LONDON: 4.^ LUDGATE HILL.
GLASGOW: 48 GORDON STREET. ABERDEEN 26 BROAD STREET.
18 8 4.
V.-?.
742145
Ardviaick Castle, Suthcrlandt-liirt;.
l.iiili Arkai-f, Iiiveiiic'ss-.sliiie.
IX
Cndgluill Hijuse, Ceres, t.fufchiie.
Ciaigicvar Castle, Loocliel-Cushnie, Aberd-unshiru.
(lid iMiin-wbin Custle, liutlierhuidsliiie.
Duiii'ubiii Castle, Siitlimlaiidshlre.
XI
Dunottar Castle, Kiucaidiue.^htre, in the lith eeutury. Kn.piii Slezer's TUeatruia Scot(it (lOl'y).
Dimkuld, Pcrlhshiie, in Uie 17tli Leiitury. From Slezers TutiUrum itodtt (lo'JJ).
XII
Lj(f^^^
S^^^£.i^i^®*a«!S5^
*fS-5s^>-^
Fort Aui^ustus, Invrness- shire.
■<ya.£(^aN /J
frciidraught lluuse, /Vbunicuiishiiu, wiUi thu luiiis of the old C'astlu
XIII
Sculptured Front of Old College, Glasgow (founded in 1450).
Piirt of the (iiiadniuglc, Old College, (Jlasgow.
XIV
nriiP'!
- ' • - ■ t B
Gordon Castle, Monysliire. From Nattfcs' Scotia i)«/)(0(«.
Iiivertic.ss at tlic cmi of tlio ITtli cMiliiry. I'roiii SlczcrV Tlii:«ti-am Si-oIki (ic.'.t:}).
XV
Perth ill the 17ih uoiituiy. From Slezei's T/uatrum Scout (1693).
I'.us.T ut lviiliooni:ikie, ' crths liic, iii l.i.^l vuiilu.y.
XVI
ORDNANCE GAZE
^FfTBARTHOLOMEW EDINBURGH
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CORWAR
Corwar, an estate, with a mansion, in Colraonell
parish, S AjTshire, 3^ miles ESE of Banhill station.
See COLMONFXL.
Cor3miulzie. See CoRRiEsniiziE.
Coryvreckan. See Cokkievrechan
Coshieville, a place, with an inn, in Strath Appin,
Dull parish, Perthshire, 5i miles W by N of Aberfeldy,
on a road leading northward to Tummel Bridge, over a
pass 1262 feet high.
Cessans. See Glamis.
Costa, a headland at the northern extremity of the
mainland of Orkney, on the mutual border of Evie and
fUrsay parishes. Projecting to a point 4 miles EXE of
the Brough of Birsay, it comprises a hill 478 feet high,
and presents to the ocean a bold precipitous cliff. See
Evie.
Costerton House. See Crichtox.
Cotbum, a hill (559 feet) on the i_utual border of
Turriff and ilonquhitter parishes, N Aberdeenshire, i^
miles NE of the town of Turriff.
Cotehill, a loch, measuring 1 J by 1 furlong, in Slains
parish, E Aberdeenshire, 1 mile W by X of the church.
Cothal, a place with factories of tweed and woollen
cloth in Fin tray parish, Aberdeenshire, on the left bank
of the Don, 7k miles XNW of Aberdeen, and 2| NXW
of Dyce Jimction. The factories were established in
1798, and are famous for both the quantity and the
quality of the tweeds which they turn out.
Cotiiiemuir. See Keig.
Cotton, a village in Auchindoir and Kearn parish, W
Aberdeenshire, 7 furlongs ESE of Rhynie.
Coul, a mansion in Contin parish, SE Ross-shire, a
little NE of the parish chm'ch. Built in 1821, it
is a handsome edifice, with finely-wooded policies ; its
owner. Sir Arth\ir-Geo. -Ramsay Mackenzie, eleventh
Bart, since 1673 (b. 1865; sue. 1873), holds 43,189
acres in the shire, valued at £5215 per annuni
Coul, a mansion in the parish and 1 mile EXE of the
station of Auchterarder, SE Perthshire.
Coulatt, a loch on the mutual border of Knockando
and Dallas parishes, Elginshire, 4 mUes "W by X of
Knockando church. Lying 1100 feet above sea-level,
it measures li by 1 furlong, and sends off the Burn
of Coulatt, flowing 6^ miles E and SSE to the Spey, 7
furlongs SSE of the said church. — Ord. Sur., sh. 85,
1876.
Coull, a coUier hamlet in Markinch parish, Fife, If
mile XW of Markinch town.
Coull, a parish of S Aberdeenshire, whose church
stands 3;^ miles XX W of Aboj-ne station, this being 32i
miles W by S of Aberdeen. It is bounded X by Leochel-
Cushnie, E by Lumphanan, S by Aboyne, W by Logie-
Coldstone and Tarland-Migvie. Irregidar in outline, it
has an utmost length from XXE to SSW of 5f miles, a
varjdng breadth of 5| furlongs and 4| miles, and an area
of 9053 acres. The drainage is carried mainly to the
Dee, but partly also to the Don — by the Bum of Tarland
to the former, and to the latter by the Bum of Corse.
In the extreme SE the surface sinks to 410 feet above
sea-level, thence rising westward to Scar Hill of Tilly-
duke (984 feet), and northward to *Mortlich (1248),
Leadhlich (1278), *Crag (1563), and Loanhead (994),
where asterisks mark those summits that culminate on
the confines of the parish. The rocks are all of primary
formation, the eastern hills consisting chiefly of reddish,
the western of grepsh, granite ; and the soils vary from
gravel-mixed clay to loam and moorish uplands. A
' Druidical ' circle on Tomnaverie, a number of small
cairns upon Corse Hill, and ti-aces of the Terry Chapel
on Xewton of Corse make up the antiquities, with the
ruined castles of Corse and Coull. The latter at the
opening of the 13th century was the seat of the great
Durward family, of whom it was said that, a Durward
dying, the church bell of Coull tolled of its o^vn accord.
A stately pile, it measured some 50 yards square, and
had five turrets and four hexagonal towers. Corse Castle
bears date 1581, and, though long roofless, is compara-
tively entire. The lands of Corse, forming part of the
barony of Coull and O'Xeil, were in 1476 bestowed on
19
COUPAR-ANGUS
Patrick Forbes, armour-bearer to James III. , and youngest
son of the second Lord Forbes. Among his descendants
were Patrick Forbes (1564-1635), Bishop of Aberdeen
from 1618 ; and his son, John Forbes (1593-1648), the
scholar and Episcopalian confessor, whose estate was
repeatedly ravaged by the famous freebooter Gilderoy.
The bishop's male line failing with his grandchildren,
Corse passed to the Forbeses of Craigievar, and now is
held by the late Sir John Forbes' second son, James
Ochoncar Forbes, Esq. (b. 1837 ; sue. 1846), who owns
1946 acres in the shire, valued at £1679 per annum. His
modem mansion, near the old castle, is 3^ miles NW
of Lumphanan station, and 4J NE of CouU church.
Two proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 2 others holding between £100 and £500,
and 1 between £50 and £100. In the presbytery of
Kincardine O'Xeil and synod of Aberdeen, CouU has
since 1621 given off the Corse di\-ision quoad sacra to
Leochel-Cushnie ; the living is worth £202. The church
(1792 ; restored 1876 ; 220 sittings) has a fine-toned bell
that was cast in Holland in 1644. A public school, with
accommodation for 103 children, had (1880) an average
attendance of 83, and a grant of £79, 12s. 6d. Valua-
tion (1881) £4006, 15s. 7d. Pop. (1801) 679, (1831)
767, (1851) 734, (1871) 824, (1881) 783.— Ord Sur., sh.
76, 1S74.
Coull, Braes of. See Lintrathex.
CouUin. See Cuchullix.
Coulmony House. See Ardclach.
Coulport, a hamlet on the W side of Roseneath parish,
Dumbartonshire, on Loch Long, 4 miles N by W of
Cove. It maintains a feiry across Loch Long to Arden-
tinny, and has a new pier, erected in 1880, when also seve-
ral acres were laid out for feuing purposes. The Kibble
Crystal Palace, in the Glasgow Botanic Gardens, was
removed from Coulport in 1872.
Coulter, a loch in the S of St Ninians parish, Stirling-
shire, near the foot of the Lennox Hills, 6;^ miles SSW
of Stirling. "With an utmost length and width of 5 and
3 furlongs, it is shallow towards the "W, but very deep
to the NE ; contains perch and pike ; and sends off its
superfluence by Auchenhowie Bum to the Carron. Dur-
ing the great earthquake of Lisbon (1735) it was vio-
lently agitated, and sank about 10 or 12 feet. — O/d.
Sur., sh. 31, 1867.
Coulter, Lanarkshire. See Culter.
Coultra. See Balmerixo.
Countesswells, an estate, with an old mansion, in
Peterculter parish, Aberdeenshire, 4f miles WSW of
Aberdeen. Its owner, ilajor And. GammeU of Drum-
tochty Castle, holds 5208 acres in the shire, valued at
£5470 per annum. There are a post oflBce of Countess-
wells under Aberdeen and a public school.
Coupar-Angus, a to^^m and a parish partly in Forfar,
but mainly in Perth, shire. The town stands in the
centre of Strathmore, near the left bank of the Isla, on a
small tributary of that river, 4J miles SE of I31air-
gowrie, 12| XE by X of Perth, and 15 XW of Dundee ;
whilst its station, the junction for Blairgowrie, on the
Scottish Midland section of the Caledonian, is 15| miles
from Perth, 22 from Dimdee, 62f N by W of Edinburgh,
and 79^ XE of Glasgow. The part of it on the left bank
of the rivulet is in Angus or Forfarshire ; and, being
the older portion, occasioned the whole to be called
Coupar-Angus. Dating from a remote antiquity, the
town was long a time-worn, decayed, and stagnant place,
but within recent years has undergone great revival and
improvement, and become a centre of much traffic and a
seat of considerable trade. It is governed by nine police
commissioners, under selected sections of the general
police and improvement act of Scotland, adopted in July
1871 ; and has a post office, with money order, savings'
bank, insurance, and telegraph departments, branches of
the Bank of Scotland, the Union Bank, and the Xational
Bank, a local savings' bank, five jirincipal inns, a gas
company, a town-house with a steeple, a literary associa-
tion, masonic and good templar lodges, a Bible society, a
young men's Christian association, bowling and curling
clubs, and a volunteer corps. In 1874 a much-needed
2S9
COUR
water supply was iutroJuccJ, at a cost of nearly £4000,
from springs on the Pitcur estate, Avhich are guided to
a reservoir close to the Dundee turnpike, containing
55,000 gallons. There are three linen- works, a tannery,
farina works, a brewery, and steam saw-mills. A grain
market is held on Thursday, and cattle markets fall on
the third Thursday of every month but June, August,
September, and October. The Queen has driven thrice
through Coupar- Angus, on 11 Sept. and 1 Oct. 1S44,
and 31 Aug. 1S50. Henry Guthrie (1600-76), Bishop
of Dunkcld, was a native. A Roman camp here, imme-
diately E of the churchyard, is supposed to have been
formed either by Agricola or LoUius Urbicus, and seems
to have been a square of 1200 feet, with two strong
ramparts and wide ditches ; but now is represented only
by remains of the eastern part of the ramparts. In
1164 King Malcolm the ilaiden founded the Cistercian
abbey of St Mary's within the area of this Roman camp.
A large and stately structure, richly endowed by several
of the Scottish kings and by the Hays of Errol, it passed
at the dissolution to the Balmerino family. An ivy-
clad fragment, in the SW corner of the churchyard, is
all that is left of it, a beautiful arch having been
demolished in 17S0 to furnish material for the parish
church. This, dating originally from 1681, was in great
measure reconstructed in 1780, and thoroughly rebuilt
in 1859. Other churches are the Free, U.P. (1790),
Evangelical Union (1789), Original Secession (1826),
and Episcopal (1847). A new one-story public school,
erected (1876-77) at a cost of £2700, with accommoda-
tion for 502 children, had in 1880 an average attendance
of 299, and a grant of £286, 18s. 6d. Pop. (1793) 1604,
(1841) 1868, (1861) 1943, (1871) 2149, (1881) 1959.
The parish, containing also the villages of Arthur-
stone, Balbrogie, and AVashington, is bounded N by
Alyth, NE by Meigle, SE by Meigle and Kettins, S by
Cargill, and NW by Caputh, Blairgowrie, and Bendochy.
Its greatest length, from NE to SW, is 6 miles ; its
lireadth varies between 5 furlongs and 2| miles ; and its
area is 4769| acres, of which 184 are in Forfarshire, and
70^ are water. The Lsla, winding lOg miles ' in many
a loop and link,' roughly traces all the northern and
north-western border ; along it lies a considerable ex-
tent of haugh-land, protected by embankments, 7 feet
high, from inundations by the river. The rest of the
area mainly consists of the level grounds of Strathmore,
but is bisected from NE to SW by a ridge, along which
runs the great highway from Perth to Aberdeen, and
which commands a splendid view of the Sidlaw Hills
along the one side of the strath, and of the Grampian
ilountains on the other. In the extreme SW the sur-
face sinks to 100 feet above sea-level, thence rising to
224 near Keithick, 172 at Kemphill, 210 at Easter Den-
head, and 208 near Arthurbank. The formation is Old
Red sandstone ; and the soil is mainly a good sandy
loam. Mansions are Balgersho House, Keithick House,
lsla Park, Balbrogie, Arthurstone, Denliead, Kinloch,
and Bankhead ; and 6 proprietors hold 'each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 15 of between £100 and
£500, 14 of from £50 to £100, and 45 of from £20 to
£50. Giving olf a portion quoad sacra to Meigle,
Coupar-Angus is in the j)resbytery of Jleigle and synod
of Angus and Mearns ; the living is worth £442. Valua-
tion (1882) £16,297, 14s. 2d., of which £1844, 16s. Id.
was for the Forfarshire section. Pop. of civil parish
(1801) 2416, (1831 ) 2615, (1861) 2929, (1871) 3055, (1881)
2819, of whom 265 were in Forfarshire ; of q. s. parish
(1871) 2797, (18S1) 2i,i&.—0rdSur., shs. 48, 56, 1868.
See the Rev. C. Rogers' and Major-Gen. A. S. Allan's
licntal Look and Jli^torical Notices of the Abbey of
Coupar-Aiifjus {2 vols., Grampian Club, 1879-80).
Cour, a mansion in Saddell parish, Kintyre, Argyll-
shire, on Kilbrannan Sound, 7i miles N by E of Carra-
dale.
Courance, a hamlet in Kirkmichael parish, Dumfries-
shire, 9 miles NW of Lockerbie, under wliich it has a
post office. Courance House is the seat of John Seton-
Wightman, Esq. (b. 1846 ; sue. 1879), who owns 2750
aiTes in the .shire, valued at £1705 i)er annum.
290
COVESEA
Courthill. See Lanoside.
Cousland, a village in Cranston parish, Edinburgh-
shire, ;!^ miles ENE of Dalkeith, under which it has a
post office. It was burned by the Protector Somerset in
1547, at the time of the battle of Pinkie. A chapelry
of Cousland was annexed to Cranston parish about the
era of the Reformation ; its chapel stood on the SW
side of the village, and has left some remains.
Couston. See Bathgate.
Couthally. See Cowtiially.
Couttie, a hamlet in Bendochy parish, E Perthshire,
on the right bank of the lsla, 1 mile NW of Coupar-
Angus.
Cove, a fishing village in Nigg parish, Kincardineshire,
with a station on the Caledonian railway, 4f miles S by
E of Aberdeen, under which it lias a post office. At
it are St Mary's Episcopal church (1868), a public and
an Episcopal school, an hotel, and a harbour, which,
mainly natural, or very slightly improved by art, serves
often as a place of refuge to boats in high north-easterly
winds. The fishermen engage in various kinds of fishery,
and have considerable reputation for the drying and
smoking of haddocks. A cave enters from the beach in
the vicinity, and probably gave name to the village.
Pop. (1861) 385, (1871) 450, (1881) 550.
Cove, a charming watering-place in Roseneath parish,
Dumbartonshire, to the right or E of the entrance to
Loch Long, IJ mile WNW of Kilcreggan, and 6 miles
by water WNW of Greenock. Of modern growth, and
conjoined as a police burgh with Kilcreggan, it comprises
a number of neat villas and cottages. At it are a post
office, with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph
departments, a steamboat pier, and Craigrownie quoad
sacra church. See Kilcreggan and Craigrownie.
Cove, a fishing hamlet in Cockburnspath parish,
Berwickshire, 3 furlongs E of Cockburnspath station.
Its harbour, 3 furlongs further to the eastward, is ap-
proached through a sloping tunnel, which, hewn out of
soft rock, is 65 yards long, and just wide enough to
admit a horse and cart ; it has a pier for ii.sliing-boats on
a little bay, surrounded by cliffs 100 to 200 feet in
height. The hamlet, consisting of little more than a
score of one-story cottages, had a fishing population of
21, of whom no fewer than 11 perished, within -h mile
of home, in the disastrous gale of 14 Oct. 1881.
Cove, an estate, with a mansion, in Kirkpatrick-
Fleming parish, Dumfriesshire, on the left bank of Kirtle
Water, 1 mile W of Kirkpatrick station.
Cove. See Ulva and CAOLisroitT.
Cove-a-Chiaran. See Campbeltown.
Covesea (j)Opularly Causca), a little village on the
coast of Di"ainie parish, Elginshire, 5J miles NNW of
Elgin, and 3^ W of Lossiemouth. The shore here is
rocky, precipitous, and strikingly picturesque. In one
place a gently sloping road leads through a natural arch,
with stately pillars, to a stretch of fine natural meadow on
the beach, shut in to the landward by smooth and mural
Old Red sandstone cliffs, GO to 100 feet high ; elsewhere
are caves, fissures, arches, stacks, and fantastic forms of
rock, various and romantic as the ruins of a vast city,
and far too numerous to be appreciablj' damaged Ibr
ages to come by either the elements or the hand of man.
Two pecidiarly interesting objects are an isolated rock,
which, looking like an inverted pyramid, is 60 feet high,
30 across the top, but only 8 aci'oss the base ; and the
Laird's Stable, a cavern, which, once the abode of a
hermit, was used as a stable by Sir Robert Gordon of
Gordon.stown during the '45. In another cave, near
llopeman, have been found a flint arrow-head, bones of
tlic beaver and the crane, and other traces of prehistoric
occui)ancy ; and the roof of a third is sculptured with
figures of the half-moon, sceptre, fish, and suchlike
symbols of ancient Celtic art. A reef or chain of skerries,
extending parallel to the coast, about J mile from the
shore, was the scene of many shijiwrecks ; but since
1846 it has been crowned with a lighthouse, built at a
cost of £11,514, and showing a revolving light, visible
at the distance of I85 nautical miles. The light a]>])ears
in its brightest state once every minute, and, from W by
COVINGTON
COWPITS
N i N to SE by E ^ E, it is of the natural appearance ;
but from SE by E ^ E to SE J S, it has a red colour.
See pp. 323-337 of Jas. Brown's Round Table Club
(Elgin, 1S73).
Covington, a hamlet and a parish iu the Upper Ward
of Lanaikshire. The hamlet stands lietvreen the Clyde
and the Caledonian railway, \\ mile X by E of its
station and post-to^vn Thankerton, this being 33^ miles
S\V of Edinburgh and 36J SE of Glasgow ; at it is the
parish chmxh (230 sittings), an old building enlarged in
the early part of last century. A neighbouring tower,
built in 1442 by Lindsay of Covington barony, is now a
fine ruin ; and Covington Mill was the place where that
famous martyr of the Covenant, Donald Cargill, was
seized by Irving of Bonshaw in May 16S1.
The parish, containing also the villages of Thankerton,
Kewtown of Covington (7 furlongs XXE of Thankerton),
and Hillhead (f mile XXE of the church), comprises
the ancient parishes of Covington and Thankerton,
united some time between 1702 and 1720. Bounded
XW by Pettinain, E by Libberton, SE by Syming-
ton, and "W by Carmichael, it has an utmost length
of 5 miles from XXE to SSW, viz., from the Clyde
below Brown Ford to the top of Tinto ; its greatest
breadth, from E to W, is 2g miles ; and its area is
5167| acres, of which 53 are water. The Clyde, here
winding 3| miles west-north-westward and northward,
roughly traces all the boundary with Libberton ; and
three or four bums run to it through the interior or on
the borders of the parish. In the extreme XE the sur-
face sinks to 630 feet above sea-level, thence rising to
829 at Hillhead, 1049 near Wellbrae, 1013 at Chester,
661 at Thankerton bridge, and 2335 on Tixxo ; it is
divided among meadows or low well-cultivated fields
along the Clyde, pastoral slopes, and heathy uplands.
Nearly two-fifths of the entire area are under the plough,
and about 80 acres are in wood. Other antiquities than
Covington Tower are a cairn, three camps, and a
' Druidical temple.' Here, in 1S28, his father being
parish minister, was bom the late Lord Advocate, "Wil-
liam Watson, who in ISSO was raised to the peerage as
Baron Watson of Thankerton. St John's Kirk is the
only mansion : and 2 proprietors hold each an annual
value of more, 2 of less, than £500. Covington is in
the presbytery of Biggar and synod of Lothian and
Tweeddale ; the living is worth £265. A public school
at Xewtown of Covington, ^"ith accommodation for 70
children, had (ISSO) an average attendance of 44, and
a grant of £48, 3s. Valuation (1882) £6487, 9s. Pop.
(1801) 456, (1831) 521, (1861) 532, (1871) 454, (1881)
444.— Crrf. Sur., sh. 23, 1865.
Cowal, the mid eastern district of Argyllshire. Its
north-western extremity is an isthmus between the head
of Loch Fyne and the boundary with Perthshire ; whilst
its north-eastern is a range of mountains along the
boundary with Perth and Dumbarton shires, to the
head of Loch Long ; and all the rest is a peninsula
bounded E by Loch Long and the Firth of Cl3'de, S by
the Kyles of Bute, and W by Loch Fyne. Its length,
from the head of Glen Fyne on the XXE to Lamont
Point on the SSW, is 37 mUes ; and its greatest breadth
is 16 J mUes. It comprehends the parishes of Lochgoil-
head and Kilmorich, Dunoon and Kihnun, Strachur and
Stralachlan, Inverchaolain, Kibnodan, and Kilfinan, and
the quoad sacra paiishes of Ardentinny, Inellan, Kiru,
and Sandbank, with the chapelries of Strone, Toward,
Kilbride, and Tighnabruaich. See Argyllshire.
Cowcaddens. See Glasgow.
Cowdailly. See Cowth.a.lly.
Cowdenbeath, a village in the S of Beath parish, Fife, 2
miles WS W of Lochgelly, and 3 furlongs X by W of Cow-
denbeath station on the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee
section of the Xorth British, this being 5J miles EXE
of Dunfermline. It has a post office under Lochgelly,
with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph depart-
ments, a Free church, and a public school ; and in the
neighbourhood are the extensive collieries of the Cowden-
bea^th Coal Co. Pop. (1861) 1148, (1871) 1457, (1881)
2712.
Cowden Castle, a mansion in Muckart parish, Perth-
shire, 2J miles EXE of Dollar. Occupjang the site of
an ancient fortalice, which belonged to the see of St
Andrews, it is the seat of John Christie, Esq. (b. 1824 ;
sue. 1859), who owns 1672 acres in the shire, valued at
£1625 per annum.
Cowdenhill, a hamlet near Borrowstounness, NW
Linlithgowshire.
Cowdenknowes, an estate, with a mansion, part ancient
and part modern, in Earlston parish, BerAvickshire, on
the left bank of Leader Water, 1 mile S of Earlston
village. Its strong old tower, with deep pit beneath
and ' hanging tree ' outside (the latter cut down barely
50 years since), was the seat of those ancestors of the
Earls of Home whose feudal cruelties called forth the
malediction —
' Vengeance ! vengeance ! when and where ?
Upon the house of Cowdenknowes, now and ever mair.'
Their estate has long been alienated, and now is held by
William Cotesworth, Esq. (b. 1827), who owns 2331
acres in Berwick and Roxburgh shires, valued at £2702
per annum. Behind the house rises Earlston Black
Hill (1031 feet), a picttiresque conical eminence, crowned
with remains of a Roman camp. All know the plaintive
air and one at least of the three versions of the ballad —
' " O the hroom, and the bonny, bonny broom.
And the broom of the Cowdenknowes,"
And aye sae sweet as the lassie sang
I' the bught, milking the ewes."
But the broom-sprinkled braes and haughs of Cowden-
knowes — ' one of the most classical and far-famed spots
in Scotland' — ^had been sadly stripped of their golden
adornments by the so-called march of agrictdtural im-
provement, when, in the winter of 1861-62, the hand of
Xature nipped what man had spared. See pp. 133-137
of Lauder's Scottish Rivers (ed. 1874).
Cowey's Linn, a waterfall of 35 feet in leap in Eddie-
stone parish. Peeblesshire, on a head-stream of Eddlestone
Water, 3 miles X by W of Eddlestone village.
Cowgate. See Ditsdee, Edixeuegh, and Macch-
lixe.
Cowglen, a hamlet and a mansion in Eastwood parish,
Renfrewshire, 2 ndles W by S of PoUokshaws. Coal
and limestone are worked iu the vicinity.
Cowhill Tower, a mansion in Hol}"wood parish, Dimi-
friesshire, on the right bank of the Xith, 4^ miles XXW
of Dumfries.
Cowie, a fishing village and a stream of Kincardine-
shire. The village, in Fetteresso parish, stands on the
X side of Stonehaven Bay, and f mile X by E of Stone-
haven town. Anciently it was a free burgh, under
charter of Malcolm Ceannmor, who, on a rock over-
looking the sea, is said to have built a small fortalice — •
the Castle of Cowie. Of this some vestiges remain,
while its First Pointed chapel, which afterwards be-
longed to Marischal College, Aberdeen, is a picturesque
ruin, with a burjing-ground still in use. Cowie House,
hard by, is a seat of Alex. Innes, Esq. of Raemoir (b.
1812 ; "sue. 1S63), who o-wns 4750 acres in the shire,
valued at £2847 per annum. Cowie Water, rising on
the western border of Glenber\ie parish at 1000 feet
above sea-level, winds 13 miles eastward through the
rocky and wooded scenery of Glenbervie and Fetteresso
parishes, and at Stoxehavex falls into Stonehaven Bay.
It is fairly stocked with small trout ; is subject to high
freshets, which often do considerable damage ; and is
crossed, | mile XXW of Stonehaven, by the grand
fourteen -arched Glenury Viaduct of the Aberdeen rail-
way, which, in one part 190 feet high, commands a fine
view of the river's ravine, the vale and town of Stone-
haven, Dimnottar Castle, and other features of the sur-
rounding landscape. — Ord. Sur., shs. 66, 67, 1871.
Cowiefauld, a hamlet in Strathnnglo parish, Fife, 2
miles WSW of Strathmiglo \illage.
Cowie's Linn. See Cowey's Lixx.
Cowlairs. See Gl.\sgow.
Cowlatt, Loch. See Coulatt.
Cowpits, a village in Inveresk parish, Edinburghshire,
COWSHAVEN
on the right bank of the Esk, U mile S of Mussel-
bui-<;li.
Cowshaven. See ABEnroiTv.
Cowthally, a ruined castle in Carnwath parish, Lanark-
shire, on the edge of a moss H mile NW of Carnwath
viUage. From the reign of Da'vid I. (1124-53) to 1603
it was the seat of the powerful family of Somervillc,
which, ennobled in 1430 under the title of Baron Somer-
ville, became extinct in 1870 on the death of the nine-
teenth Lord. P.urned by the English in 1320, but
aftenvards rebuilt, it was surrounded by moat and ram-
part, and accessible only by a drawbridge. James Y.
and VL were both entertained here with great magni-
ficence, the latter punningly remarking that the castle
rather should be called Goiv-daily, because a cow and
ten sheep were killed there every da}'. See Drum and
the eleventh Lord Somerville's curious Memorie of the
Somervilles (2 vols., 1815).
Coxton, an old castellated mansion in St Andrews-
Lhanbride parish, Elginshire, 2 miles ESE of Elgin. A
tall square structure, ^^'ith turrets at the angles, it bears
date 1644, but is fully a century older; and it was the
residence of the Inneses of Invermarkie, but belongs
now to the Earl of Fife. See vol. 1. of Billings' Baronial
Antiquities (1845).
Coyle or Coila (popularly Kill), a stream of Kyle dis-
trict, AjTshire. It rises in the S of Ochiltree parish
close to the boundary with Coylton, and winds 14i
miles north-westward to the river Ayv, at a point 3j
miles E of the town of Ayr. It makes a cascade, 25
feet ^vide and 15 feet in fall, under the ridge on which
stands Sundrum House ; its yellow trout are good, Init
not over plentiful ; and at llillmunnoch, on its bank.
Burns makes the ' Poor and Honest Sodger ' return to
his ain dear maid.
Coylton, a village and a parish in Kyle district, Ayr-
shire. The village stands 2 miles W by N of Drongan
station and 6 ESE of Ajt, under which it has a post
office, and consists of two parts, Coylton proper and
New Coylton. It is traditionally said to have got its
name from the 'Auld King Coil' of Coilsfield, but
figures in old records as Quiltoun and Cuiltoun.
The parish, containing also the villages of Craighall,
Woodside, Rankinston, and Joppa, is bounded N by
Tarbolton, E by Stair and Ochiltree, S by Dalmellington,
SW by Dalr}Tnple, W by Ayr, and NW by St Quivox.
Its greatest length, from NNW to SSE, is 8^ miles ; its
breadth varies between 7 furlongs and 3§ miles ; and its
area is 11,752| acres, of which 160| are water. From a
little below Stair church to just above Mainholm, the
river Ayk winds 7f miles west-south-westward along all
the northern and north-western border ; to it flows the
Water of CoYiiE, latterly through the NE interior, but
chiefly along the boundary with Ochiltree and Stair.
Lochs Mautnaham (1 J x J mile) and Snipe (li x § furl. )
lie on the Dalrymple border ; and on the Ayr border is
Loch I'ergus (3x1 furl.). Where the Ayr quits the
parish the surface sinks to less than 50 feet above sea-
level, thence rising to 139 feet near Craighall, 356 at
Raithhill, 253 near Joppa, 799 at Craigs of Co3de, 1241
at Ewe Hill, 1122 at Brown Rig, and 1426 at Benwhat,
which last, however, culminates just beyond the southern
border. Coal, ironstone, trap rock, sandstone, lime-
stone, and potter's clay are worked, the recent great
increase in the population being due to mining develop-
ment ; plumbago was mined, from 1808 till 1815, on
the farm of Laigh Dalmore ; fire-clay abounds in the
neigld)Ourhood of a limestone (|uarry ; and Water-of-
Ayr stone, used for hones, was raised for some years on
Knocksho"gle farm. The soil of the holms or flat
grounds along the streams is light and loamy, on a
sandy or gravelly bottom ; elsewhere it is inostly a poor
cohesive clay on a stilf, cold, tilly subsoil, with patches
of moss or peat. About 70 per cent, of the entire land
area is in tillage, 23 in pasture, and 7 under wood.
Antiquities are a large stone, Ijy tradition associated
with tlie name of ' Auld King Coil ;' the castellated por-
tion of Sundrum House ; fragments of the old parish
church ; and the sites of two pre-Reformation chapels.
292
CRAIG
A field on Bargleuch has yielded four stone coflins ; and
silver coins of Elizabeth, James VI., and Charles I.
have been dug up on Bargunnoch farm. JMansions are
Sundrum, Gadgirth, Rankinston, Martnaham Muir, and
Oakbank ; and the property is divided among 14 land-
owners, 6 holding each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 3 of between £100 and £500, 1 of from £50 to
£100, and 4 of from £20 to £50. Coylton is in the
presbytery of Ayr and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the
living is worth £331. The church, built in 1836, is a
good Gothic edifice, with a tower upwards of 60 feet
high, and contains 744 sittings. Two public schools,
Coylton and Littlemill, with respective accommodation
for 293 and 220 children, had (1880) an average attend-
ance of 191 and 134, and grants of £162, 12s. 6d. and
£96, 19s. Valuation (1860) £10,481, (1882) £20,454,
8s. 9d., including £911 for railway. Pop. (ISOl) 848,
(1831) 1380, (1861) 1604, (1871) 1440, (1881) 3100.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 14, 1863.
Crag or Craiglich, an eminence (1563 feet) on the
mutual border of CouU and Lumphanan parishes, Aber-
deenshire, 7^ miles SSW of Alford.
Craggie or Creagach, a loch on the mutual border of
Lairg and Rogart parishes, SE Sutherland, 3^ miles
ENE of Lairg village. Lying 525 feet above sea-level,
it measures 1 mile by 2J furlongs, and, with a stiflish
breeze, affords as good trouting as any in Sutherland. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 102, 1881.
Craggie or Creagach, a loch in Tongue parish, Suther-
land, receiving the superfluence of Loch Loyal, and
sending ott' its own to Loch Slaim, through two short
reaches of the river BoRGiE, each 1 furlong long. L)'-
ing 369 feet above sea-level, it is 1§ mile long from S to
NNE ; varies in breadth between IJ and 3h furlongs ;
and contains magnificent trout and salmo-ferox, mth
occasional salmon and grilse. One of its trout scaled
8\hs.— Ord. Sur., sh. 114, 1880.
Craibstone. See Aberdeen, p. 17.
Craichie. See Dunnichen.
Craig, an estate, with a mansion, in Colmonell parish,
S Ayrshire, on the Stinchar, 2 miles ENE of Colmonell
village.
Craig, an estate, with a mansion, in Kilmaurs parish,
Ayrshire, between Carmel Water and the river Ir\ane,
4 miles W by S of Kilmarnock. Its owner, Allan Pol-
lok-Morris, Esq. (b. 1836; sue. 1862), holds 165 acres
in the shire, valued at £846 per annum.
Craig. See Neilston.
Craig, a hamlet and a coast parish of Forfarshire.
The hamlet, Kirkton of Craig, stands on the brow of a
gentle acclivit}', 1^ mile SSW of Montrose, and com-
mands a splemlid view over Montrose Basin and town
away to the Grampians.
The parish, containing also the fishing villages of
Ferryden and Usan or Ulysses' Haven, comprises the
ancient parishes of Inchbrayock or Craig and St Skeoch
or Dunninald, united in 1618. It is bounded N by
Montrose Basin and the mouth of the South Esk, SE
by the German Ocean, S bj^ the Dysart section of
j\Iaryton and by Lunan, SW by Kinnell, W by Far-
nell, and NW by Maryton proper. Its utmost length
is 5| miles from ENE to WSW, viz., from the Ness
to tiny Nicholls Loch upon Ross Muir ; its width
varies between 1^ and 2J miles ; and its area is 4865j
acres, of which 345J- are foreshore, and 137i water.
The northern border slopes gently do-\vii to Montro.se
Basin ; and Rossie island there, lying at the head of
the South Esk's eOlucnce to the sea, and separated
from the mainland only by a narrow channel, belongs
to Craig, but will be separately noticed. The E coast
is rocky, and toward the S precipitous, at Boddin
Point rising rapidly to 200 feet above sea-level. On
the Ness, or most easterly point of the coast, where the
South Esk falls into the sea, is a lightliouse, whose light,
fixed white till 1881, is now double intermittent or
occulting, visible at a distance of 17 nautical miles. The
interior, with gradual southward and south-westward
ascent, forms, for the Tuost part, an undulating table-
land ; and, attaining 234 feet near Balkeillie, 426 near
CRAIG
Balstout, and 503 near the Keformatory, commands
from many points extensive views. The rocks are
chiefly erujjtive and Devonian, and include greenstone,
amj-gdaloid, sandstone, and limestone. A eoai-se sand-
stone is worked in several quarries for building ; lime-
stone was long extensively worked ; and many varieties
of beautiful pebbles are found in the amygdaloid. The
soil in the E is sandy, westward inclines to moorish,
and in the central and much the largest section is a
strong rich loam. Fully five-sevenths of the entire
area are in cultivation, a little less than a fourth being
either in pasture or commonage, whilst some 300 acres
are under wood. An old castle stood on the coast, in
the immediate vicinity of Boddin, and has left slight
vestiges called Black Jack ; and a square earthen bat-
tery, traditionally said to have been thrown np by
Oliver Cromwell, stood on a small headland at the
mouth of the South Esk. The most interesting
antiquity, however, is the strong castle of the barony
of Craig, — a barony nearly identical with the present
estate of Rossie. Frequently mentioned by Scottish
chroniclers, it stood on the N side of the parish, and is
now represented by a tower and gatewaj", and by part
of a dwelling-house added in 1639. Mansions are Rossie
Castle, Dunninald House, and Usan House ; and the
property is divided among 4 landowners, 1 holding an
annual value of over £5000, 2 of over £2000, and 1 of
over £400. Craig is in the presbytery of Brechin and
synod of Angus and Meams ; the living is worth £360.
The parish church, erected in 1799, is a good building
with a square tower SO feet high, and figures finely in the
landscape ; a Free church is at Ferryden. Four public
schools — Craig, Ferryden Senior, Ferryden Infant, and
"VVesterton — with respective accommodation for 143, 160,
165, and 42 children, had (18S0) an average attendance
of 99, 144, 165, and 25, and grants of £8S, Os. 6d.,
£91, Is., £132, 10s., and £32, 3s. Rossie Reformatory,
towards the soirth-westem comer of the parish, oh miles
SW of Montrose, was established in 1857, and had on
an average 72 inmates in 1880, when its total receipts
were £1193, inclusive of a Treasury allowance of
£1093. Valuation (1882) £12,486, 8s. 2d., including
£1225 for railway. Pop. (1801) 1328, (1831) 1552,
(1861) 2177, (1871) 2402, (1881) 2589.— Ord. Sur., sh.
57, 1868.
Craig or Craig-of-Madderty. See St David's.
Craigallion, a loch in Strathblane parish, SW Stir-
lingshire, 2 miles AVSW of Strathblane station. Lying
380 feet above sea-level, it measures 3| furlongs by 1^,
and has finely-wooded shores.
Craigandarrocb. See Ballater.
Craiganeoin, a deep natm-al amphitheatre in Moy and
Dalarossie jtarish, Inverness-shire, 1 mile SE of Moy
church. Surrounded by high rocks, and accessible only
through one narrow passage, it was used in old tiu.es
by the Highland caterans for concealing their wives
and children during their raids into the low countr}- ;
and was the scene of a skii-mish in the '45, known as
the Rout of Moy.
Craiganfhiach or Raven's Rock, a precipitous crag in
the W of Fodi-lertj" parish, Ross-shire. It gives off a
ver}' distinct echo, and is near a strong chalj^beate spring,
the Saints' Well.
Craiganoin. See Craigaxeoix.
Craiganroy, a commodious and safe harbour in Glen-
shiel parish, Ross-shire, at the S corner of Loch
Duich.
Craigarestie, a chief summit of the Kilpatrick Hills,
in Old Kilpatrick parish, Dumbartonshire. It cul-
minates 1^ mile NKE of Bowling, on the SW side of
Loch Humphrey, at 1166 feet above sea-level.
Craigbamet, an estate, \vith a mansion, in the W of
Campsie parish, S Stirlingshire, If mile W by N of
Campsie Glen station. Its o\vner, Major Chs. Graham-
Stirling (b. 1827 ; sue. 1852), holds 3343 acres in the
shire, valued at £1716 per annum.
Craigbeg, a hill, 1054 feet high, in Dm-ris parish, Kin-
cardineshire, 5^- miles ESE of Banchory.
Craigbhockie and Craigboddich, two lofty cliffs in
CRAIGDOW
Loth parish, Sutherland, confronting each other on
opposite sides of a small burn running to Loch Glen.
Craigcaffie Castle, the old square tower of the NeU-
sous in Inch parish, Wigtownshire, 3^ miles NE of
Stranraer. It was surroimded by a fosse, but never
could have been a place of much strength ; now it is
occupied b)- farm labourers.
Craig Castle. See Auchixdoir axd Keakx, and
Castle Craig.
Craigchailliach,a summit(2990feet)in the Finlarig sec-
tion of Weem parish, Perthshire,3;i miles K by W of Killin.
Craig Cluny, a precipitous granite height in Crathie
parish, Aberdeenshire, IJ mile E of Castleton of Brae-
mar. It overhangs the public road, and is clothed far
up with rowan, weeping birch, and lofty pines. See
Charters Chest.
Craigcrook Castle, a picturesque old mansion in
Cramond parish, Edinburghshire, nestling at the foot
of the north-eastern slope of Corstorphine Hill, 1
mile W of Craigleith station, and 3^ miles W of Edin-
burgh. Built probably in the 16th century by one of
the Adamsons, it was sold in 1659 to John Mein, in
1670 to John HaU, in 1682 to Walter Pi-ingle, and in
1698 to John Strachan, who, dying about 1719, be-
queathed for charitable uses all his propertj* — 334 acres,
valued now at £1259 per annum. From early in this
century till 1814 it was the residence of the publisher,
Archibald Constable (1775-1827), whose son and bio-
gi'apher, Thomas (1812-81), was bom here, and who in
1815 was succeeded by the celebrated critic and lawyer,
Francis Jeffrey (1773-1850). The latter describes it as
' an old narrow high house, 18 feet wide and 50 long, with
irregular projections of all sorts, three little staircases,
turrets, a large roimd tower at one end, and an old
garden (or rather two, one within the other), stuck close
on one side of the house, and surrounded with massive
and aged walls, 15 feet high.' He straightway set
about the task of reformation ; and during the thirty-
five summers that he passed at Craigcrook, by extending
and remodelling the gardens (a prototype of those of
' Tully-Yeolau ' in Scott's Waverley), and by additions
to the house in 1835 and earlier, he made it at last a
lovely and most delightful spot. See Cockburn's Life
of Lord Jeffrey (2 vols., Edinb. 1852).
Craigdaimve, a sea inlet on the W side of North
Knapdale parish, Argyllshii'e, branching from the Sound
of Jiu'a near Keils Point.
Craigdam, a hamlet in Tarves parish, Aberdeenshire,
1\ mile SW of Tarves village. At it are a U. P. church
(1806 ; 600 sittings) and a girls' public school.
Craigdarroch, an estate, Avith a mansion, in Glencaim
parish, Dumfriesshire, 2\ miles W of Moniaive. Its
owner, Robert Cutlar Fergusson, Esq. (b. 1855 ; sue.
1859), holds 2264 acres in the shire, valued at £1755
per annum. Craigdarroch Burn, rising upon the eastern
slope of Cornharrow Hill at 1500 feet above sea-level,
close to the boundary with Kirkcudbrightshire, runs 6
miles east-by-southward to the vicinity of Moniaive,
where it unites with Dalwhat and Castlefern burns to
form the river Cairx. — Ord. Sur., sh. 9, 1863.
Craigdarroch, an estate, with a modern mansion, in
Contin parish, SE Ross-shue, 4 miles WSW of Strath-
peffer. The mansion stands amid romantic scenery,
near the north-eastern shore of Lcvch Achilty.
Craig-David. See Bervie Brow.
Craigderg, a ridge of granitic rocks in Inverness parish,
Inverness-shire, adjacent to the side of Loch Dochfour.
An ancient watchtower stood upon it, and is sujjposed
to have been an outpost of Castle-Spiritual.
Craigdhuloch, a stupendous cliff in the SW comer
of Glenmuiek parish, Aberdeenshire, adjacent to the
boundary with Forfarshire. It overhangs the S side of
the small, dark, sequestered Loch Dhuloch ; soars to
the height of more than 1000 feet; and is thought by
some observers to be grander than the famous rocks of
Lochnagar.
Craigdow, a loch (If x \h furl.) on the mutual border
of Kirkoswald and Maybole parishes, W Ayrshire, 3i
miles SW of Maybole town.
2P3
CRAIGELLaCHIE
CRAIGFORTH
Craigellachie (Gael, crcag-eagalach, ' rock of alarm '),
a bold aiul wooded height(1500 feet) on the mutual border
of Duthil and Alvie parishes, E Inverness-shire, near
the left bank of the Sjiey, above Aviemore station. It
gave the clan Grant their slogan or war-cry, ' Stand fast,
Craigellachie. '
Craigellachie, a village in the N of Aberlour parish,
W Hantl'sliire, lincly seated, 300 feet above sea-level, on
the left bank of the Spey, which here receives the Fid-
dich, and here is crossed by a handsome iron bridge,
with round embattled towers at the angles and a single
arch of 100 feet span, erected in 1815 at a cost of £8000,
as also by the viaduct (1857) of the Great North of
Scotland railway. The junction of the Jlorayshire,
Keith, and Strathspey sections of that system, it is 12^
miles SSE of Elgin, 14| WSW of Keith, 68 XW by W
of Aberdeen, 33^ NE of Boat of Garten, and 121f N by
E of Perth ; and has a post office, with money order,
savings' bank, and telegraph departments, two insurance
agencies, gas-works, an hotel, an Established church,
with 116 sittings, and a girls' school, vnth. accommoda-
tion for 81 children. "Water has been introduced, and
building actively carried on since the summer of 1880,
when a new street was sanctioned round the top of the
lofty quartz crag above the station, on feus given off by
Lord Fife at £8 per acre. — Ord. Sicr., sh. 85, 1876.
Craigencat, a hill on the N border of Dunfermline
parish, Fife, | mile E by S of Loch Glow, and If SSE
of Cleish village. Rising to an altitude of 921 feet
above sea-level, it mainly consists of basaltic rock,
which is quarried for dykes and road-metal, and it
exhibits very regular basaltic columns with many
horizontal divisions.
Craigend, a farm on the N border of Newabbey
parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, 3J miles NW of Newabbey
\'illage. A rocking-stone on it, 15 tons in weight, may
be put in motion by a child.
Craigend, an estate, with a mansion, in Strathblane
parish, Stirlingshire, 3^ miles N by W of Milngavie.
The mansion, Craigend Castle, was built in 1812, and
is a splendid edifice, standing amid fine grounds ; its
owner is the ex-diplomatist, the Right Hon. Sir Andrew
Buchanan, G.C.B., of Dunburgh, Bart. (cr. 1878), who,
born in 1807, succeeded his father in 1860, and holds
883 acres in the shire, valued at £948 per annum.
Craigend, a hamlet and a moor in Campsie parish,
Stirlingshire. The hamlet lies on Powburn, adjacent to
the Blane VaUey railwa}', 2 miles E by S of Strathblane
station. The moor extends from the southern -sdcinity
of the hamlet to the boundary with Baldernock, and
attains an altitude of 634 feet above sea-level.
Craigend, a village in Perth East Church parish, Perth-
shire, 2 miles S of Perth. At it are a public school and
a U.P. church (1780 ; 413 sittings).
Craigend, a mansion in Liberton parish, Edinburgh-
shire, near Craigmillar Castle, 2J miles SSE of Edin-
burgh. Built in 1869, it is a large edifice in the Gothic
style, and has, at the SE corner, a circular tower 60 feet
high.
Craigendarroch. See Ballatek.
Craigends, an estate, with an old mansion, in Kil-
barchan parish, Renfrewshire, on the right bank of the
Gryfe, 3 miles NNW of Johnstone. Its owner, .John
Charles Cunninghame, Esq. (b. 1851 ; sue. 1866), holds
3136 acres in tlie shire, valued at £9985 per annum, in-
cluding £2508 for minerals.
Craigengelt, an estate in the SW of St Ninians
pni-ish, Stirlingshire, W of Loch Coulter, and 5J miles
WNW of Denny. It includes a considerable mass of
the Lennox Hills, and contains a circular cairn or
mound called the Ghost's Knowe, which, 300 feet in cir-
cumference, is engirt by twelve very large stones. This
is one only out of several artificial inounils, clothed with
fine grass, and called the Sunny Hills ; and Craigengelt
is believed to have been, in olden times, the scene of
many tragical events.
Craigengower, a liill in Straiton parish, Ayrshire,
9 furlongs SE of Straiton village. Rising to a height of
1160 feet aViove sea-level, it is crowned with a handsome
294
monument to Colonel Blair, who fell in the Crimea ; and
it commands an extensive view.
Craigenputtoch, a lonely farm at the head of Dun-
score parish, in Nithsdale, Dumfriesshire, lying, 700
feet above sea-level, at the SW base of Craigenputtoch
Moor (1038 feet), 10 miles WSW of Auldgirth station,
and 15 WNW of Dumfries. From May 1828 to May
1834 it was the home of Thomas Carlyle (1795-1881)
and his wife, Jane Welsh (1801-66), she having inherited
it from her father, whose ancestors owned it for many
long generations, going back, it may be, to great John
Welsh of Ayr (1570-1623). Here he wrote Sartor Ee-
sartus, here received two visits from Lord Jeffrey, and
hence sent Goethe a description of his residence as 'not
in Dumfries itself, but 15 miles to the NW, among the
granite hills and the black morasses which stretch west-
ward through Galloway, almost to the Irish Sea. In
this wilderness of heath and rock our estate stands forth
a green oasis, a tract of ploughed, partly enclosed, and
planted ground, where corn ripens,, and trees afford a
shade, although surrounded by sea-mews and rough -
woolled sheep. Here, with no small effort, have we
built and furnished a neat substantial dwelling ; here,
in the absence of professional or other office, we live to
cultivate literature according to our strength, and in
our own peculiar way.' In 1807, the 3-ear succeeding
the death of Mrs Carlyle, he bequeathed the estate — 773
acres, valued at £250 per annum — to Edinburgh Uni-
versity, to found ten equal competitive 'John Welsh
bursaries,' five of them classical, five mathematical. —
Orel. Sicr., sh. 9, 1863. See Carlyle's Reminiscences
(1881), and his Life by J. A. Froude (1882).
Craigenscore, a mountain in the N of Glenbucket
parish, W Aberdeenshire, 21 miles N of the church. It
has an altitude of 2000 feet above sea-level.
Craigentinny (Gael, creag-an-teine, ' rock of tire '), an
estate, with a mansion, in South Leith parish, Mid-
lothian, lying between Edinburgh and the Firth of
Forth, 2;^ miles EXE of the city. The property of
Samuel Christie-ililler, Esq. (b. 'l811 ; sue. 1862), it
extends over only 652 acres, yet is valued at £5739 per
annum. This high rental is due to the fact that here
are the most extensive meadows in Scotland, all of
which have been under regular sewage irrigation for
upwards of 35 years. The produce is annually sold to
cow-keepers at £16 to £28 (in one year £44) an acre, and
the gi'ass per acre is estimated at from 50 to 70 tons.
It is cut five times a year ; and two men suffice to keep
the ditches in order {Traits. Eight, and Ag. Soc, 1877,
p. 24).
Craigenveoch, a mansion in Old Luce parish, Wigtown-
shire, on the N side of Whitefield Loch, 3;^ miles ESE
of Glenluce. Built in 1876, it is a splendid Scottish
baronial pile, the seat of Admiral Right Hon. Sir Jn.
Chs. Dalrymjile Hay, third Bart, since 1798 (b. 1821 ;
sue. 1861), who, having previously represented Wake-
field and Stamford, was in 1880 elected member for the
Wigtown burghs, and who owns 7400 acres in the shire,
valued at £6601 per annum.
Craigflower, an estate, with a mansion, in Torryburn
parish, SW Fife, 3:^ miles E of Culross. It was the i)ro-
perty of the Right Hon. Sir Jas. Wm. Colvile of Ochil-
tree (1810-80), Indian jurist and privy councillor, who
owned 1002 acres in the shire, valued at £2279 per
annum.
Craigfoodie, a hill and a mansion in the N of Dairsi'
parish, Fife. The hill, culminating 3^ miles NE ot
Cupar, at 554 feet above sea-level, presents to the SW
a mural front, partly consisting of columnal basalt.
The mansion stands on the SE slope of the hill, If mile
NW of Dairsie station.
Craigford, a village in St Ninians parish, Stirling-
shire, distant 1 mile from Bannockburn.
Craigforth, an estate, with a mansion, in Stirling
parish, Stirlingshire. Tlie mansion stands on the right
bank of the river Forth, 2 miles WNW of the town ;
and, together with the estate, takes name from a bohl
and wooded crag. It is a seat of Geo. Fred. Wil.
Callander, Esq. of Akukinglass (b. 1848 ; sue. 1851),
CRAIG-GIBBON
CRAIGIELANDS
who holds 601 acres in Stirlingshire, and 51.670 in
Ai'gyllsliire, valued respectively at £1886 and £5626 per
auuum. Here lived and died the antiquary, John Cal-
lander (1710-S9).
Craig-Gibbon, a summit in a detached section of
Metliven parish, Perthshire, 3h miles SSW of Dunkeld.
One of the Lower Grampians, it rises to a height of 1263
feet above sea-level, and is surmounted by an obelisk.
Craig-Gowan, a wooded height (1437 feet) in Crathie
and Braemar jiarish, SAV Aberdeenshire, 9 furlongs S by
E of Balmoral. On it are Prince Albert's Cairn (1863),
and others, the first of which was reared on 11 Oct. 1852,
by the Queen, the Prince Consort, and all the royal
children, according to age. See Balmoral and p. 101
of the Queen's Journal (ed. 1877).
Craighall, a village in the NW of Coylton parish,
Ayrshire, on the left bank of the river Ayr, and 4 miles
E b)- N of AjT town.
Craighall, an estate, with a ruined, castellated man-
sion, in Ceres parish, Fife. The ruined mansion stands
on the N side of a deep wooded den, traversed by a
bm-n, 3 J miles SE of Cupar ; and, buUt by Sir Thomas
Hope, King's Advocate to Charles I., still presents a
grand appearance. See Pinkie.
Craighall, an estate, with a mansion, in Rattray
parish, Perthshire, 3 miles N of Blairgowrie. * A modern-
ised ancient edifice, on a pentnsulated rock, rising 214
feet sheer from the Ericht, and formerly defended on
the land side by a fosse and two towers,' the mansion
■was visited by Scott in the summer of 1793, and was one
of the prototypes of ' Tidly-Veolan' in Wavcrley. The
Rattrays of Craighall-Rattray are said to date back to
the reign of Malcolm Ceannmor (1057-93) ; and the
present proprietor, Lieut. -Gen. Clerk Rattray, C.B.
(b, 1832 ; sue. 1851), holds 3256 acres in the shire,
valued at £2928 per annum.
Craighall, New, a collier village on the mutual border
of Liberton and Inveresk parishes, Edinburghshire, near
New Hailes station on the North British, and 2 miles
WSW of Musselburgh. At it are an Established chapel
of ease (1878), built, like the houses, of brick, and the
Benhar Coal Co. 's school, which, with accommodation
for 403 children, had (1880) an average attendance of
240, and a gi-aut of £166, 6s. Pop. (1861) 336, (1881)
978.
Craighall, Old, a collier village, with a school, in
Inveresk parish, Edinburghshu'e, If mile SSW of
Musselburgh.
Craighead. See Cajipsie.
Craighead, a village in Redgorton parish, Perthshire,
on the left bank of the Almond, 1 mile N by W of
Alraondbank station.
Craighead, an estate, with a mansion, in Blantyre
parish, Lanarkshire, on the left bank of the Clyde, 1
mile S of Bothwell village.
Craighead, a place where Caaf Water forms a fine
cascade in a narrow wooded dell, on the mutual boun-
dary of Dairy and Kilwinning parishes, Ayrshire.
Craiffheads, a village connected with Barrhead town,
in Renfrewshire.
Craighirst, one of the Kilpatrick Hills in Old Kil-
pati-ick parish, Dumbartonshire, 2\ miles N of Dun-
tocher. It has an altitude of 1074 feet above sea-
level.
Craighlaw, an estate, with a handsome modern man-
sion, engirt by w-ell-wooded policies, in Kirkcowan
parish, Wigtownshire, IJ mile W by N of Kirkcowan
village. Its owner, Malcolm Fleming Hamilton, Esq.
(b. 1869 ; sue. 1876), holds 6300 acres in the shire,
valued at £2577 per annum.
Craighom. See Alva, Stirlingshire.
Craig House, a fine old, many-gabled Scottish man-
sion ill St Cutlibcrts parish, Midlothian, on the north-
eastern slope of wooded Craiglockhart Hill, 2j miles
SW of Edinburgh. Haunted ('tis said) by the ghost of
one Jacky Gordon, it belonged to Sir William Dick,
Knight, of Braid, who, from being Lord Provost of Edin-
burgh, and possessor of £226,000, equal to £2,000,000
of our present money, died in the King's Bench a pauper
in 1655. Lons: after, it was the residence of the his-
torian, John Hill Burton (1809-81).
Craigie, a village and a parish in Kyle district, Ajrr-
shire. The village stands 4 miles S of Kilmarnock,
under which it has a post ofiice.
The parish, incluiling part of the ancient parish of
Barnweill, was itself united to Riccarton till 1647.
It is bounded N by Riccarton, NE by Galston, E bv
INlauchline, SE by Tarbolton, SW by Monkton, anil
NW by Symington. Rudely resembling a triangle,
with south-westward apex, it has an utmost length from
NE to SW of 5| miles, an utmost breadth of 4i
miles, and an area of 6579J acres, of which 3 are
water. Cessxock Water winds 1 mile along the Galston
border ; but the drainage is mostly carried southward or
south-westward by the Water of Fail and the Pow
Burn. The surface is undulating, attaining 507 feet
above sea-level near Harelaw in the NW, and 458 near
Pisgah in the S, heights that command a brilliant
panoramic view, away to Ben Lomond, Jura, and the
Irish coast. Coal, both bituminous and anthracitic,
has here been mined in several places and at different
times, though never with much success ; whilst the work-
ing of limestone of the finest quality has lately been aban-
doned, chiefly on account of the distance from railway.
Great attention is paid to dairy -farming, more than half of
the entire area being in pasture, whilst about 170 acres are
under wood. William Roxburgh (1759-1815), physician
and botanist, was born at Underwood in this parish.
Its chief antiquities are artificial mounds, which either
were seats of justice or military encampments, and the
ruins of Craigie Castle, \^ mile WSW of the church. A
very ancient structure, this was the seat, first of the
Lindsays, and then of the Wallaces of Craigie. (See
LocHRTAN House, Wigtownshire.) Mansions are
Cairnhill, Barnweill, and Underwood. Craigie is in the
presbytery of Ayr and synod of Glasgow and Ayi' ; the
living is worth £300. The church, erected in 1776,
stands at the village, as also does a public school, which,
with accommodation for 126 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 40, and a grant of £30, 14s.
Valuation (1882) £10,724, 5s. 2d. Pop. (1801) 786,
(1831) 824, (1861) 730, (1871) 618, (1881) 590.— Ort^.
Hxir., sh. 22, 1865.
Craigie, an estate, with a mansion, in St Quivox
parish, Ayrshire, on the right bank of the river Ayr, and
1^ mile E by S of Ajt town. Wallacetown lies on the
estate, whose owner, Rich. Fred. Fothringham Camp-
bell, Esq. (b. 1831 ; sue. 1860), holds 2099 acres in the
shire, valued at £3770 per annum.
Craigie, an estate, with a mansion, in Dundee parish,
Forfarshire, near the Fii-th of Tay, 2 miles E by N of
Dundee town. Its owner, David Chs. Guthrie, Esq. (b.
1861 ; sue. 1873), holds 309 acres in the shire, valued
at £979 per annum.
Craigie. See Perth and Belhelvie.
Craigie, a village in Caputh parish, Perthshire, 4J
miles WSW of BlairgowTie, under w-hich it has a post
office.
Craigie or Creagach, Loch. See Borgie.
Craigiebams. See Duxkeld.
Craigiebuckler. See Banchory-Devenick,
Craigiebum, an estate, with a mansion, in JIoflFat
parish, Dumfriesshire, on the right bank of Jloffat
Water, 2g mdes E of Mott'at town. Craigicljurn Wood
was a favourite haunt of the poet Burns about 1789, the
birthplace of Jean Lorimer, his 'Chloris.'
Craigiehall, an estate, with a mansion, in the SE of
Dalmeny parish, Linlithgowshire, on the left bank of
the Almond, 7 furlongs W of Cramond Bridge, and 3J
miles W by S of Davidson's Mains. Its owner, James
Charles Hope Vere (b. 1858 ; sue. 1872), holds 2217 acres
in Mid and West Lothian, valued at £5433 per annum.
(See also Blackwood, Lanarkshire. ) The park around
the mansion is finely wooded ; and the Almond, where
skirting it, forms a picturesque cascade beneath a rustic
bridge. See Dalmexy.
Craigielands, a neat modern village in Kirkpatrick-
Juxta parish, Dumfriesshire, near Beattock station, and
295
CRAIGIEVAR
2i miles SSW of Jlottat, under which it has a post
otfice. Craigiclands House, a modem mansion, is in its
southern vicinity.
Craigievar (Gael, creagach-bharr, ' the rocky point '),
a hamlet and an estate, with a mansion, in Luniphanan
and Leochel-Cushnie parishes, central Aberdeenshire,
35 and 4g miles NNW of Lumphauan station, this
heing 27 miles W by S of Aberdeen, under which there
is a post ofiice of Craigievar. The liamlet has a public
school ; and fairs for cattle, sheep, and horses are held
at it on the Friday before the third Wednesday of April,
the Friday before 26 Jlay (or 26th, if Friday), the
Thursday after the last Tuesday of June 0. s., the day
of July after St Sairs, the Thursday after the second
Tuesday of August 0. s., and the Friday after the first
Tuesday of September 0. s. The estate belonged to the
Jiortimcrs from 1457 and earlier down to 1610, when it
was purchased by "William Forbes of Menie (1566-1627),
a cadet of the Forbeses of Corse, who, ' by his diligent
merchandising in Denmark and other parts, had become
extraordinary rich.' His son and namesake (1593-
1648), a zealous jCovenanter, and the breaker up of the
freebooter Gilderoy's band, was created a baronet in
1630 ; his sixth descendant, the present and eighth
baronet, Sir William Forbes (b. 1836 ; sue. 1846), holds
9347 acres in the shire, valued at £8539 per annum.
The Mortimers are said to have commenced the castle,
but to have been stayed by lack of funds ; by William
Forbes it was finished in 1626. Built of granite, a tall,
narro-n- clustered tower, seven stories high, it is in the
best style of Flemish castellated architecture, one of the
most perfect specimens extant, and as such is figured in
five of Billings' i)lates — three showing the exterior ^vith
its corner tuiTcts, corbelling, and crow-stepped gables ;
one, the banqueting hall, with mighty fireplace, oaken
furnishings, and ' curiously plaistered ' ceiling and
chimney-iiiece ; and the fifth, a bedroom, not so unlike
Queen Mary's at Holyrood. — Orel. Sur., sh. 76, 1874.
See vol. i. of Billings' Baronial Antiquities (1845).
Craiglea, a hill (1737 feet), with a slate quarry, in
Fowlis- Wester parish, Pertlisliire, on the Logiealmond
estate, 6| miles NW of Methven Junction. The slate
vein is of excellent quality; yields two kinds of slates,
the one dark blue, the other of a sea-green hue ; and has
long been worked to the extent of above 1,200,000 slates
a year.
Craigleith, an islet of North Berwick parish, Had-
dingtonshire, 1 mile N of North Berwick town. Measur-
ing 14 by 1 furlong, it rises to a height of 80 feet ;
consists of greenstone, bare and barren ; and is inhabited
only by rabbits, jackdaws, and sea-fowl. In 1814 Sir
Hew Dalrymple bought it from the Town Council for
£400.
Craigleith, an extensive sandstone quarry near the
W border of St Cuthberts parish, Edinburghshire, J
mile E of Blackball village, and 2 miles W bj' N of
Edinburgh ; close to it is Craigleith station on the Leith
branch of the Caledonian. Belonging to the upper
group of the Calciferous Sandstone scries, it i)rcsent3 a
deep excavation 12 acres in area, and longsu]i)>]ied most
of the stone with which the New Town of Edinburgh
was built, its original rental of only £50 rising to
£5500 during the great building ))criod in Edinburgh,
from 1820 till 1S2G. The Craigleith stone is of two
kinds — the one of a fine cream colour, called liver rock ;
the other of a greyish white, called feak rock. Three
trunks of great fossil coniferous trees have been here
discovered.
Craigleoch, a cliff on the western verge of Rattray
parisli, rerthshire, at a very romantic gorge in the
chaiiml of tlie river Ericht, a little al)ovc Craigjiall.
Craiglockhart, an ancient baronial fortalice in Lanark
ptirish, Lanarkshire, on the right bank of Mouse Water,
opposite Jerviswood. It jirobably was erected by some
remote ancestor of the Lockliarts of Lee ; but it figures
very slightly in either records or tradition ; and it now
is a ruined, lofty, pictures(|Ue tower.
Craiglockhart, a wooiled basaltic hill in Colinton
parish, Jlidlothian, I mile ESE of Slateford, and 2.J
296
CRAIGMILLAR CASTLE
miles SW by W of Edinburgh. Attaining a height of
550 feet above sea-level, it commands a wide westward
view, awaj^ to the frontier Grampians ; at its base is a
skating-pond, formed in 1873 by Mr Cox of the Edin-
burgh Gymnasium. It got its name from the neigh-
bouring square tower or keep, built by an ancestor of
the Lockliarts of Lee about the middle of the 13th
century, and now rejiresented by only the basement
arched story ; and in turn it has given name to a man-
sion, a poorhouse, an Established mission church, and
a hydropathic establishment, in its vicinity. The
mansion, built about 1823, stands between the hill and
Slateford, on the verge of a wooded bank, sloping down
to the Water of Leith. The Edinburgh Poorhouse, at
the back or SE of the hill, was built in 1869, and, as
enlarged in 1878, has accommodation for 827 inmates.
The church, an iron one, opened in 1880, is near the old
tower, as this again is near the hydropathic establish-
ment, which occupies a commanding site to the SW of the
hill, and which, designed by Alessrs Peddie & Kinnear,
was erected during 1878-80, being a plain but dignified
edifice, rustic Italian in style, with central tower, slightly
projecting wings, and accommodation for 200 visitors.
Craigluscar, a hill (744 feet) in Dimfennline parish,
Fife, 3 miles NW of Dunfermline town. A limestone
quarry near its summit exhibits a bed of trap interjposed
between two of limestone.
Craiglush, a loch (2 x ^ mile) in Caputh parish, E
Perthshire, traversed by Lunan 13urn, which runs from
it 1 furlong south-south-eastward to the beautiful Loch
of Lows.
Craigmaddie, an estate in Baldernock and Strathblane
parishes, Stirlingshire, 2 miles NE of Milngavie. It
contains a stately modern mansion ; a fragmentary ruin
of the moated tower of the Galbraiths, dating from 1238
or earlier ; a group of cairns, alleged to mark the scene
of a battle between the Danes and the Picts ; that
singular cromlech known as the Auld Wives' Lift ; a
lake of about 10 acres ; a fine expanse of park and wood ;
and an extensive moor, rising to an altitude of 633 feet,
and going into junction with Craigend Aloor.
Craigmark, a mining village in Dalmellington parish,
Ayrshire, 1 j mile NNW of Dalmellington town. Pop.
(1861) 543, (1871) 616, (1881) 383.
Craigmarloch, a small village on the mutual border
of Kilsyth parish, Stirlingshire, and Cumbernauld
parish , Dumbartonshii'e.
Craigmile, an' estate, with a mansion, in Kincardine
O'Neil parish, S Aberdeenshire, 1^ mile E of Torphins
station.
Craigmill, a small village in the Clackmannanshire
section of Logic parish, at the southern base of Abbey
Craig. It formerly was notorious for the smuggling of
whisky.
Craigmill. See Rattuay.
Craigmillar Castle, a grand old ruin in Liberton
parish, Midlothian, 3 miles SE of I'^dinburgh. Crown-
ing the brow of a gentle eminence, it commands from its
topmost roof a magnificent view of Arthur's Seat, the S
side of the city, the firth and the shores of Fife, Aber-
lady Bay, and the Pentlands ; and itself consists of a
lofty square keep or tower, an inner ivy-clad court, and
a quadrangular embattled wall, 30 feet high, with
circular corner towers — the whole engirt by an outer
rampart or else, in places, by a moat. The ' new part,'
to the W, was added so late as 1661 ; the keep must be
older than 1427 (the earliest date preserved) ; but much
of the building, as it stands to-day, was reared most
likely after its burning by Hertford in 1544. ' On the
boundary wall,' says Sir Walter Scott, 'may be seen
the arms of Cockburn of Ormiston, C'ongalton of Con-
galton, ]\loul)ray of Barnbouglc, and Otterl)urn of Red-
ford, allies of the Prestonsof Craigmillar ; whilst in one
corner of the outer court, over a ])ortal arch, are the
arms of the family, three unicorns' heads couped, with
a cheese-i>ress and barrel or tun, a wretched rebus to
express their name ' — this sculptured fragment bearing
date 1510. Within are the noisome diniu'fons, in whose
partition wall a skeleton was found bricked up (lil3);
CRAIGMORE
the kitchen, with mighty oven ; Queen Mary's bower,
■\rith two or three dubious relics ; her bedchamber,
measuring but 7 by 5 feet, yet having two \vindows and
a fireplace ; and the great banqueting hall, 36 feet long,
and 22 feet broad, with walls 10 feet in thickness,
chimney 11 feet wide, a barrel-vaulted roof, and deep
embrasured windows, on the stone seat of one of which
may be faintly traced a diagram of the old game of the
' Walls of Troy. ' The name of this place occurs pretty
early in the national records, in a charter of mortifica-
tion granted in 1212 by William, son of Henry de
Craigmillar, whereby he gives, ' in pure and perpetual
alms,' to the church and monastery of Dunfermline, a
certain toft of land in Craigmillar, in the southern part
leading from the town of Xidreif to the church of
Liberton, which Henry de Edmonton holds of him.
Later, Craigmillar belonged to one John de Capella, and
from him it was purchased in 1374 by Sir Simon
Preston, whose descendants retained it for nearly three
centuries, and, during that pei'iod held the highest
offices in the magistracy of EtUnburgh. In 1478 John,
Earl of ilar, 'ane fair and lustie man,' was here im-
prisoned b}' James III. , his brother, and only removed
to meet his doom by treacherous lancet in the Canon-
gate ; and James V., with Gawin Douglas, his tutor,
was sent here during his minority, when the pest was
raging in Edinburgh. Queen Marj^, after her return
in 1561, made Craigmillar so frequent a residence,
that a neighboui'ing hamlet, where her French retinue
lodged, retains to this day the name of Little France ;
in December 1566 we read of her lying here sick,
and ever repeating these words, * I could ■wish to be
dead. ' Here, too, in the same month, her divorce from
Darnley was mooted by Both well, Murray, Le thing-
ton, Argyll, and Huntly, in the so-called ' Conference
of Craigmillar,' and propounded to Mary herself; and
to Craigmillar it was at fii'st proposed to have Darnley
conveyed, instead of to Kirk of Field. Mary's son,
James VI. , is said to have planned at Craigmillar his
matrimonial excursion to Denmark; and Mary's de-
scendant. Queen Victoria, in 1842 drove by its ruins,
which have been sketched and Avi'itten of by 'fat, fodgel'
Grose, Sir Walter Scott, Thomson of Duddingston, Sir
Thomas Dick Lauder, Hill Burton, and many others. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 32, 1857. See vol. i. of Billings' 5aro«iaZ
Antiquities (ISio), a.n.^ Historical Sketches of Craigmillar
Castle (Edinb. 1875).
Craigmore, a precipitous hill, 1271 feet high, in Aber-
foyle parish, Perthshire, flanking the Laggan's northern
bank, and culminating 1 mile XW of Aberfoyle hamlet.
Craigmore. See Bex-ax-Armuinn.
CTaig-na-Ban, a roimded, granitic, fir-clad hiU (1736
feet) in Crathie and Braemar parish, SW Aberdeenshire,
1| miie SE of Abergeldie. On it, to save his own life,
a wizard is said to have hunted do^^m a -n-itch and handed
her over to justice ; and on it Prince Frederick William
of Prussia gave the piece of white heather (emblem of
good luck) to the Princess Royal on the day of their
betrothal, 29 Sept. 1855.
Craig-na-Faoilinn, a stupendous crag, 934 feet high,
in Durness parish, Sutherland, overhanging the public
road at the head of Loch Eriboll, near the mouth of
Strath Beg.
Craignafeile, a stack or rocky tower-like islet off the
NE coast of the Isle of Skye, Inverness-shire, near a
cascade falling to the sea, in the vicinity of Loch Staffin.
It presents some resemblance to a statue in Highland
costume ; hence the name crcag-na-fheilidh, ' the rock of
the kilt.'
Craignaiolar or Creag na h-Iolaire (Gael, 'eagle's
crag'), a rocky hill (1750 feet) projecting from a moun-
tain range, in Duthil parish, Elginshire, 3:^ miles NNW
of the parish church. It has several fissures, one of
which, near the western extremity, cuts it sharply from
top to bottom. See also Bex-ax-Armuinx.
Craignair. See Buittle.
Craigneil, an ancient fortalice in Colmonell parish,
SW Ayrshire, near the left bank of the Stincliar, 7 fur-
longs S of Colmonell village. Built in the 13th century,
CRAIGNISH
it was a hiding-place of Robert Bruce ; was afterwards
a feudal prison and place of execution ; and is now a
picturesque ruin, crowning a rock}- mount, and com-
manding a view of the Stinchar's valley from Penmore
to Knockdolian.
Craignethan, a ruined castle or, rather, fortified
manor-house, in Lesmahagow parish, Lanarkshire, ^
mile ENE of Tillietudlem station on the Lesmahagow
branch of the Caledonian, and 5i miles WXW of Lanark-
It stands on the left bank of the river Xethan, 1|- mile
above its influx near Crossford village to the Clyde ; and
is said to have been rebuilt by the celebrated architect.
Sir James Hamilton of Fynnart, commonly kno^vn as
the Bastard of Arran. He was beheaded in 1540, but
three years later the family estates were restored to his
son. Sir James Hamilton of Evandale. Popularly iden-
fied with the ' Tillietudlem ' of Old Mortality, Craig-
nethan, to quote James Hunnewell's Lands of Scott
(1871), 'is a mere shell and wreck of its former self;
yet, like most ruined castles, it is not wanting in
pictm-esqueness and romance. It is approached by a
road like that described in the novel — jsteep, winding,
and stony, and leading through a ford of the Nethan.
This is a shallow stream, flowing over a rocky bed, and
bending around a point that rises, with grey crags and
steep, gi'ass or tree clad banks, to a commanding eleva-
tion, on which is the castle, built of sandstone, now
faded and weather-worn. The extent of Craignethan
once was great ; even now there is a large garden -nithin
its walls. The keep, at the outer or river side, is very
ruinous ; and indeed the whole structure is much dila-
pidated, large quantities of materials having been taken
from it for the construction of ignoble buildings. But
there can still be found in it many picturesque combina-
tions of wall and tower, of stone-arched ceiling, or of
broken vaulting, streaming with graceful ivy-sprays, or
of shattered battlements, garlanded with shrubbery.
A story told of many old residences is told of this :
Queen Mary is said to have occupied, dm'ing several
days before the battle of Langside, a large hall, yet
partly existing, and called the Queen's Room. Craig-
nethan has been an important fortress, held by Hamil-
tons, by Haj's, and by Douglases. The scenery around
it has some degree of grandeur as well as beauty ; and
Sir Walter, on his visit in 1799, was so much pleased
with the place, that the proprietor oflered him use for
life of a small house within the walls. I was told that
the novel is commemorated here by quite a large periodi-
cal festivity, held bv the families of farmers and others,
and called the Tillietudlem Ball. '— C/rcZ. Sur., sh. 23,
1865. See also J. B. Greenshield's Annals of the Parish
of Lesmahagoiu (Edinb. 1864).
Craigneuk, a mining Aillage in Dalziel parish, Lanark-
shire, If mile WXW of Wishaw, and If ESE of
Motherwell. Forming since 1874 part of Wishaw police
burgh, it has a Primitive Methodist chapel, a small
Roman Catholic school, and a pubKc school. Pop.
(1S61) 716, (1871) 1377, (1881) 2330.
Craignish, a South Argyll parish on the W coast of
Argyllshire, adjoining the steamboat route from Glas-
gow, via the Crinan Canal, to Oban, and containing the
hartdet of Ardfern, -nnth a post oflice under Lochgilp-
head, 18 miles to the SE. It anciently was called
indiscriminately Kilmorie and Craignish, and it retains
a burial-ground and a ruined chapel, still bearing the
name of Kilmliori. Its south-south-western half is pen-
insidar, and its entire outline approaches that of a
scalene triangle, with south-south-westward vertex. Its
peninsula is bounded E by Loch Craignish and W by
the Atlantic Ocean ; on its other sides the parish bor-
ders on Kilninver, Kilchrenan, and Kilmartin. Its
greatest length, from NXE to SSW, is 11 miles, and
its average breadth is about 2 miles. The extent of
coast is fully 16 miles. Loch Craignish, o]iening from
the lower part of tlie NE side of Loch Crinan, pene-
trates 6 miles to the XNE, and diminishes in width from
3 miles at the mouth to 7 furlongs near the head, where
it forms a commodious harbour, with good anchorage.
Craitruish Point Hanks the W side of the loch's mouth,
^ 297
CRAIGNOOK
and terminates the parish's peninsula ; and both that
point and the small neighbouring island of Garbhreisa
are faced A\-ith cliffs. A sti-ait, called Dorusmore or the
Great Door, between Craignish Point and Garbhreisa, is
swept by a rapid tidal current, but has a deep channel,
and is usually traversed by the steamers from Port Crinan
to Oban. Abreast of the mainland, chiefly in the S and
within Loch Craignish, are upwards of twenty islands
and numerous islets and rocks, serried round with ro-
mantic cliffs. The peninsula commences, in the south-
south-western extremity, in a near point ; extends
to a length of about 6 miles ; widens gradually to 2J
miles ; swells, on the eastern side, into numerous green
eminences of 300 feet and less in elevation ; has, along
Loch Craignish shore, a narrow strip of land ; and is
cut there into numerous little headlands and winding
baylets. A flat tract, less than J mile broad, and very
slightly elevated above the sea ; extends from the
western shore across the head of the peninsula to a
rivulet in the E, running along the boundary with
Kilmartin. The district N of that tract is partly a
section of the valley of Barbreck, extending upward
from the head of Loch Craignish, and mainly a rugged,
heathy, hilly region, attaining an extreme altitude of
700 feet above sea-level, and commanding, from its
higher points, extensive and diversified views. There
are twelve lakes, many rills, and numerous perennial
springs. The prevailing rock is claj^ slate. The soil of
the arable grounds is principally a loamy mould, less
fertile than it looks to be. Much good land, or land
which might be profitably reclaimed, lies waste. Re-
mains of a large, strong, mediaeval fortalice are near the
north-western boundary ; and vestiges of rude forts,
supposed to be Scandinavian, are in eleven places.
Craignish Castle, standing on the peninsula, 2^ miles
from the point, includes a strong old fortalice, which
withstood a six weeks' siege by Colkitto, but is mostly
a good modern mansion, rebuilt about 1832 ; its owner,
Fred. Chs. Trench-Gascoigne (b. 1814), holds 5591 acres
in the shii-e, valued at £1013 per annum. Other man-
sions are Bakbukck and Dail ; and the property is
divided among 6 landowners, 3 holding each an annual
value of £r00 and upwards, 2 of between £100 and
£500, and 1 of from £50 to £100. Craignish is in the
presbytery of Inverary and synod of Argyll ; the living
is worth £215. The church, 8 miles NW of Kilmartin,
was erected in 1826, is a neat edifice, and contains 500
sittings. There is also a Free Churcb preaching station.
Craignish public and Barbreck girls' schools, with re-
spective accommodation for 85 and 41 children, had
(1880) an average attendance of 35 and 33, and gi-ants
of £43, 10s. 6d. and £41, 4s. Valuation (1882) £3889,
12s. Id. Pop. (1801) 904, (1831) 892, (1861) 618, (1871)
481, (1881)451.
Craignook. See Craigneuk.
Craignure, a hamlet in Torosay parish. Mull island,
Argyllshire, on a small bay of its own name, at the SE
end of the Sound of Mull, 2\ miles NW of Achnacraig.
It has an inn, a post-office under Oban, and a steamboat
pier.
Craigo, a village, with a public school, in Logiepert
parish, Forfarshire, on the North Esk's right bank, with
a station on the Aberdeen section of the Caledonian, 3^
miles NNW of Dubton Junction, and 6^ NNW of
Jlontrose. Craigo House, Ih mile S by E of Craigo
station, is the property of Thos. Macpherson-Grant,
Esq., W.S. (b. 1815; sue. his cousin, Thos. Carnegy,
Esq., 1856), who holds 4713 acres in the .shire, valued at
£7082 per annum. Pop. of village (1861) 359, (1871)
376, (1881) 124, a decrease due to the stoppage of a flax
.spinning-mill and a bleachfield. See Logikpkut.
Craigoch, a ])urn in Portpatrick parish, Wigtownshire,
running 4 miles west-south-westward to the North Chan-
nel at Dunskcy Castle, 5 furlongs SSE of Portpatrick
town. It KUii]ilios a small artificial lake, stocked with
trout, in the vicinity of Dunskey House.
Craigowl. See Glammi.s.
Craigphadrick, a wa«ded hill in Inverness parish,
Inverne-sshire, between Beauly Firth and the valley of
208
CRAIGSTON CASTLE
the Ness, If mile W of Inverness tovra. Terminating th 3
north-western hill-flank of the Great Glen of Scotland,
it rises to an altitude of 430 feet above sea-level ; and
its rocky tabular summit is crowned with a double-
walled, rectangular vitrified fort, 240 feet long and 90
wide, which commands an extensive view. The palace
of King Brude, near the river Ness, which Columba
visited in 565, was by Dr Reeves identified vdih Craig-
phadrick ; but Skene observes that ' it seems unlikely
that in the 6th century a royal i)alace should have been
in a vitrified fort, on the top of a roclcy hill nearly 500
feet high, and it is certainly inconsistent with Adamnan's
narrative that the vSaint .should have had to ascend such
an eminence to reach it' {Cellic Scotland, ii. 106, note,
1877).
Craigrie, a village in the parish and 5 furlongs WSW
of the town of Clackmannan.
Craig Rossie, a green hill on the mutual border of
Auchterarder and Dunning parishes, Perthshire, 2^ miles
E by S of Auchterarder town. It is one of the most
conspicuous of the Ochils, rising to an altitude of 1250
feet above sea-level.
Craigrostan. See Craigrotston.
Craigrothie, a village, -n-ith a public school, in Ceres
parish, Fife, IJ mile WSW of Ceres town. It is a
burgh of barony, governed by a bailie and councillors.
Pop. (1861) 308, (1881) 192.
Craigrownie, a quoad sacra parish in Roseneath
parish, Dumbartonshire, comprising the police burgh of
Cove and Kilcreggan. It is in the presbytery of Dum-
barton and sjniod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the stipend is
£120. Its church stands at the E side of the entrance
to Long Loch, near Barons Point ; in its vicinity is
Craigro\vnie Castle. Pop. (1871) 1103, (1881) 1136.
See Cove and Kilcreggan.
Craigroy, an eminence in the W centre of Ross-shire,
5 miles ESE of the head of Loch Maree.
Craigroyston or Rob Roy's Cave, a cavern in Buchanan
parish, Stirlingshire, at the E side of Loch Lomond, 7
furlongs N by W of Inversnaid. It occurs, within a steep
rugged rock, a little above the water's edge ; is wild and
deep ; and has a narrow entrance, partly concealed by
fallen blocks. Robert Bruce spent a night in it after
the battle of Dalrj' ; and Rob Roy frequented it as a
place of consultation with his subalterns for planning
his raids.
Craigs, a hamlet in Liberton parish, Edinburghshire,
5 furlfyigs NE of Liberton village.
Craigs. See Duntocher.
Craigs, a mansion in the parish and 2 mUes ESE of
the town of Dumfries.
Craigs, Stirlingshire. See Rum ford.
Craigskean, an old baronial fortalice, now reduced to
a ruinous frngment, in Maybole parish, Ayrshire.
Craigs of Blebo. See Blebo Craigs.
Craigs of Coyle. See Coyltox.
Craigs of Ness, a rocky gorge on the mutual border
of Straiton and Dalmellington parishes, Ayrshire, in the
course of the river Doon, immediately below its efflux
from Loch Doon. Cliffs on each side, 230 feet high, are
richly clothed with shrubs and trees, and form so close
a gorge as to leave a width of not more than 4 or 5
yards for the fretting current of the river.
CraigspajTOW, a hilly section of Newburgh parish,
Fife, projecting southward from the main body of the
parish, and rising to an altitude of about 600 feet above
sea-level.
Craigston. See Barra.
Craigston Castle, a mansion in King-Edward parish,
NW Al)crdeenshire, 4^ miles NNE of Turriff. Founded
in 1004-7 by John Urquhart, Tutor of Cromarty, it con-
sisted originally of a central tower and tAvo projecting
wings, but was so altered by connecting archwork as to
be made quadrangular, and is now an interesting edifice,
with beautiful grounds and plantations ; among its por-
traits are three by Jameson and four of the dethroned
Stuarts. The present owner, Francis Edward Romulus
Polhud-Uniuhart (b- 1S48 ; sue. 1871), holds 3998 acres
in the shire, valued at £2856 per annum.
CRAIGTHORNHILL
CRAIL
Craigthornhill, an estate, with a mansion, in Glas-
ford parish, Lanarksliire, 5 miles S by E of Hamilton.
Craigton. See Peteeculter.
Craigton, a village in IMonikie parish, Forfarshire, 5
miles "SVNW of Carnoustie, under which it has a post
office.
Craigton, an estate, with an old mansion and a bleach-
iield, in the Dumbartonshire section of New Kilpatiick
parish. The mansion stands near the eastern base of
the Kilpatrick Hills, 3J miles NE of Duntocher ; is a
large edifice of 1635 ; and has been converted into
domiciles for the operatives of the bleaclifield. The
bleachfield lies on Craigton Burn, a rivulet rising
on the Kilpatrick Hills, and running 3 J miles south-
eastward to the Allander ; and contains all appliances
for the best treatment of yarns. A public school
adjoins it.
Craigton, a village in Airlie parish, "W Forfarshire, 4
miles S\V by W of Kirriemuir. See Airlie.
Craigton, an estate, with a mansion, in Abercoru
parish, Linlithgowshire, 2 miles NW of Winchburgh
station.
CraiguUian, a loch in Strathldane parish, SW Stir-
lingshire, If mile WSW of Strathblane village. "With
an utmost length and breadth of 3| and 1 J fui'longs, it
lies 380 feet above sea-level, on a j^lateau that terminates
in an imposing range of basaltic columns, popularly
called the Pillar Craig.
Craig Vinean, a long, wild, wooded ridge of hill in
Little Dunkeld parish, Perthshire, between the con-
fluent Tay and Bran, culminating 1§ mile W of Inver
village, at 1247 feet above sea-leveL Diversified all
over with rocky protuberances, sharp undidations, and
deep hollows, it both contains charming close views
within its ovm recesses, and commands wide prospects
from its vantage-grounds ; and it forms a romantic
feature in the envii'ons of Dunkeld.
Craigwood, a pyramidal hill (558 feet), with a terrace
around it, in Dunkeld parish, Perthshire, a little to the
E of Dunkeld town. It commands a very fine view of
Dunkeld, and of the mountain-passes diverging thence.
Crail, a seaport town and a parish of the East Neuk
of Fife. A royal and parliamentary burgh, the town is
picturesquely situated in a gullj!", beyond which the red-
roofed houses rise again. It is 2-| miles WSW of Fife
Ness, 10 SE of St Andrews, and 4^ NE of Anstruther
station, this being 38f miles NE of Edinburgh ; and on
the Anstruther and St Andrews railway, now (1882) in
course of construction, it is to have a station of its own.
It dates from remote times, figuring so far back as the
first half of the 9th century as a seat of commerce with
the Netherlands, an important fishing and fish-curing
station. And still it retains an old-woiid character ; still
down towards the sea rise massive, antique dwelling-
houses ; and though the gates are gone, the name of
' 2)orts ' preserves their memory. A royal castle or
palace, the occasional residence of David I. (1124-53),
surmounted the low cliff a little E of the harbour, but,
excepting the merest fragment of a wall, has wholly dis-
appeared. So old, however, is the parish church, that
many have fancied the ' sair Sanct ' himself may have
prayed ^^ithin its walls — a fancy forbidden by the style
(Second Pointed) of its architecture. As repaired in
1828, it contains 900 sittings, and consists of an aisled
nave, 80 feet long ; a chancel, reduced from 55 to 22§
feet ; and a western tower, with stunted octagonal
spire. The SW porch has been destroyed, but the
dedication cross is yet decipherable on the walls, into
which has been built a far more ancient cross, sculp-
tured with animals and other emblems. Till 1517
this church of St Macrubha was held by Haddington
Cistercian nunnery, whose prioress, with Sir William
ilyreton, then made it collegiate, for a provost, ten pre-
bendaries, a sacrist, and choristers. On 9 June 1559,
John Knox, attended by a 'rascal multitude,' preached
from its pulpit his Perth 'idolatrous sermon,' with the
usual outcome of pillage and demolition ; and to it in
1648 the Earl of Crawford presented James Sharp, arch-
bishop that was to be. The castle had a chapel dedi-
Seal of Crail.
cated to St Rufus ; and the site of another, at the beach
to the E of the town, is known as the Prior Walls. A
Free church and a U.P. church are in the town, which
further has a neat town-hall, a post office, with money
order, savings' baidc, and telegraph departments, a branch
of the Commercial Bank, a local savings' bank, 7 insur-
ance agencies, a public library, a principal inn, two
public schools, a brewery, and gas-works. The neigh-
bouring golf links are small and uneven, gi'eatly inferior
to those of Balcomie, IJ mile further to the eastward.
The harbour is hard to enter, and neither the oldest nor
the best ; for the ancient havi-n, Roome Bay, i mile
eastward, is naturally larger and better sheltered, and
could, at comparatively trifling cost, be converted into
a deep, safe, and accessible anchorage for fully 200 ves-
sels. But at present Ci-ail's commerce comprises little
more than import of coals, and the export of grain and
potatoes, for a small
surrounding district ;
and the harbour re-
venue was only £82 in
1867, £134 in 1874,
£190 in 1880, and
£126 in 1881. Fish-
ing is carried on to a
noticeable extent, but
to an extent much less
than at some other
towns and villages of
Fife, or indeed at Crail
itself in the days when
its sun-dried haddocks
were widely famous as
' Crail capons. ' Of late
years Crail has become a favourite resort of summer
visitors, for whose accommodation several handsome
villas have been built. The burgh, first chartered by
Robert the Bruce in 1306, is governed by a provost, 2
bailies, a treasurer, and 5 other councillors ; with St
Andrews, Oupar, Kilrenny, the two Anstruthers, and
Pittenweem, it retm-ns a member to parliament ; the
municipal and parliamentary constituency numbering
190 in 1882, when the corporation revenue and burgh
valuation amounted to £226 and £3444. Pop. (1841)
1221, (1861) 1238, (1871) 1126, (1881) 1145.
The parish is bounded N by St Leonards and Kings-
barns, NE by the German Ocean, SE by the Firth of
Forth, S by Kilrenny, SW by Carnbee, and NW by
Dunino. Its utmost length, from E to W, is 6f miles ;
its breadth varies between 1 and 2§ miles ; and its area
is 6782f acres, of which 399^ are foreshore. The coast,
6 miles in extent, is bold an cT rocky, and little diversified
by creek or headland. Its most marked features are
Fife Ness at the N side of the entrance of the Firth of
Forth, and the skerries of Carr and Balcomie. Kippo Bum
traces 2§ miles of the Kingsbarns, and Chesters Burn 2
miles of the Dunino, boundary ; whilst a rivulet runs to
the Firth at the town. The land rises steeply from the
shore to a height of from 20 to 80 feet above sea-level,
thence swelling gently west-north-westward to 300 feet
near Redwells, 400 near Kiugsmuir House, and looking
all, in a general view, to be flat, naked, and uninterest-
ing. It has little wood, and not a lake or hill or any
considerable stream to relieve its monotony ; but com-
mands, from its higher grounds, a very lovely and ex-
tensive prospect. The prevailing rocks are of the Car-
boniferous formation. Sandstone, of good quality for all
ordinary purposes, occurs in almost every quarter ; and
limestone abounds, but lies too deep to be easily worked.
Coal and ironstone have both been mined ; and clays
have been dug for local brickyards. The soil varies in
character, from the richest black loam on the immediate
seaboard, to thin wet clay in the NW ; and the rent
has varied accordingly, from £1, 10s. to £8 an acre.
Between Balcomie and Fife Ness is an ancient stone
work, supposed to date from the 9th century, and
l)opularly known as the Danes' Dyke ; other anticjuities
are the ruined fortalices of Barns, Balcomie, and Airdrie.
These are all separately noticed, as likewise are the
299
CRAILING
mansions of Kingsmuir, Kirkmay, and Wormistone.
Eight proprietors hold each an annual value of £500
and upwards, 6 of between £100 and £500, 11 of from
£50 to £100, and 14 of from £20 to £50. Crail is in
the presbytery of St Andrews and synod of Fife ; the liv-
ing is worth (1882) £379. The two public schools, East
and West, with respective accommodation for ISO and
142 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 110
and 84, and grants of £91, 12s. and £56, 14s. lid.
Valuation (1882) £11,631, 6s. 8d. Pop. (1801) 1652,
(1831) 1824, (1S61) 1931, (1871) 1847, (1881) 1740.—
Ord. Suri, sh. 41, 1857. See the Rev. C. Rogers'
3:(!istcr of tlie Collegiate Church of Crail (Grampian
Club, 187'7).
Crailing, a village and a parish of Teviotdale, in
Roxburghshire. The village stands on Oxnam Water,
IJ mile ESE of Nisbet station on the Jedburgh branch
of the North British, 4^ miles NE of Jedburgh, and 7
SSW of Kelso, under which it has a post oiEce.
The parish, containing also the village and station of
Xisbet, comprises the ancient parishes of Crailing, Nisbet,
and Spittal. It is bounded NW and NE by Roxburgh,
E by Eckford, SE by Oxnam, SW by Jedburgh, and W
by Anerum. Its greatest length, from N by W to S by
E, is 4| miles ; its greatest breadth, from E to W, is 4
miles ; and its area is 6043^ acres, of which 78 are water.
The Teviot, ^^inding 4^ miles east-north-eastward on
the Jedburgh border and through the interior, here from
the S receives OxxAM Water, whose last 2J miles belong
to Crailing. The surface, where the Teviot quits the
parish, sinks to 150 feet above sea-level, thence rising to
619 feet near Littlelonley, on the S side of the river ; on
the N, to 774 at Peniel Heugli and 527 near Blackrig
jdantation. On Peniel Heugh is the Yv'^aterloo Column,
150 feet high, whose top is gained by a spiral staircase,
and which bears inscription, ' To the Duke of Wellington
and the British Army, AVilliam Kerr, sixth Marquis of
Lothian, and his tenantry, dedicate this monument, 30
June 1815.' These heights excepted, most of the parish
consists of parts of the lowest, warmest, richest, and most
lovely region of the Teviot's basin. The rocks of the
hills are eruptive, those of the valley Devonian; and
sandstone, of fine building quality, has been quarried
in two places. The soil in general is a light loam.
About 300 acres are imder wood, less than lOUO are in
permanent pasture, and nearly all the rest is under the
plough. A Roman road may still be traced in the west ;
and two camps, supposed to be Roman, have left some
vestiges on Peniel Heugh. David Calderwood, the
Church historian, here entered on the ministry about
1604 ; and Samuel Rutherford (1600-61), the eminent
Covenanting di\ane, was the son of a Nisbet farmer.
MouNTEViOT, a seat of the Marquis of Lothian, is one of
the three chief mansions, the others being Palace and
Crailing House, a plain modern mansion, which crowns a
gentle eminence above the wooded banks of Oxnam Water.
Its owner, Jn. Paton, Esq. of Crailing (b. 1805 ; sue. 1826),
holds 1493 acres in the shire, valued at £2323 per annum,
and shares nearly all this parish with the Marquis, the
latter owning its northern, and the former its southern,
division. Crailing is in the presbytery of Jedburgh and
synod of .Merse and Teviotdale ; the living is worth
£370. The church, rebuilt about the middle of last
century, is a very plain structure containing 300 sittings
A Free church contains 262 sittings ; and a public school,
with accommodation for 81 cliildren, had(1880)aii average
attendance of 63, and a gi-ant of £49, 9s. 6d. Valuation
(1882) £9374, 19s. 6d. Pop. (1801) 669, (1831) 733,
(1861) 673, (1871) 657, (1881) 638.— On/. Sur., shs. 17,
25, 1864-65.
Crammag or Crummag, a precipitous headland on the
W coast of Kirkmaiden parish, Wigtownshire, 5 miles
NW of the Mul) of Galloway. It is cut olf from tlie
neighbouring moi>T by remains of a trench and a vitrified
ram part.
Cramond, a village in the NW corner of Edinburgh-
shire, and a pari.>5h partly also in Liidithgowshire. Tlie
village is pr<-ttily situatc<I on the Firth of Forth, at the
E side of tlie mouth of tlie river Almond, 5 miles S of
300
CRAMOND
Aberdour, 3 WNW of Craigleith station on the Leith
branch of the Caledonian, and 5 WNW of Edinburgh,
with which it communicates four times a day by omnibus.
Its name in Celtic signifies ' the fort upon the Almond ;'
and it occupies the site of an important Roman station,
which was connected by a fine military way with the
great English Watling Street and with Antoninus' Wall,
and which has yielded coins of eleven emperors, three
altars, a ))avemeut, and other Roman remains. From
1628 to 1730 it gave the title of Baron to the family of
Richardson. At it are a post ofiice, boys' and girls'
schools, and the parish church.
The parish, containing also the seaport of Granton,
the villages ofDAVinsoN's Mains and Cuamond Bridge,
and a small part of Leith burgh, is bounded N by the
Firth of Forth, E by St Cuthberts, S by Corstorphiue,
SW by Kirkliston, and W by Dalmeny. Its greatest
length, from E to W, is 4 J, or from ENE to WSW 5|,
miles ; its greatest breadth, from N to S, is 2 miles ; and
its area is 6662 acres, of which 704| are foreshore, and
42J are water, whilst 1185 belong to Linlithgowshire.
Cramond Island, f mile NNE of the village, may be
reached at low water on foot, and, measuring 3 by 1^
furlongs, aflbrds pasturage for a few sheep ; IJ mUe
further is another still smaller basaltic islet. Inch
Mickery. The shore line, 5 miles long, is fringed at
places with low beds of mussel-mantled rocks, and backed
by a terrace, marking the former lower level of the land ;
the walk along it from Grauton to Cramond village is
one of the pleasantest round Edinburgh. The Almond
winds 3§ miles east-north-eastward and north-north-
eastward to the Firth, roughly tracing all the Linlith-
gowshire boundary ; from Craigiehall onward its banks
are finely wooded. The surface, though undulating,
nowhere much exceeds 200 feet above sea-level, except
iu the S which includes the northern slopes, but not
the tower-crowned summit (520 feet) of fir-clad Cor-
STORPHINE Hill. The whole, however, is so richly
adorned with mansions and parks, woods and well-
cultivated fields, as everywhere to present a charming
aspect. The trees include the four splendid sycamores
of Braehead, Cammo, Cramond House, and Craigiehall,
which, with respective height of 101, 75, 89, and 70 feet,
girth 12f, ISJ, ISi, and 16^ feet at 1 foot from the
ground ; and Cramond House has also a beech and an
oak, 85 and 60 feet high, and 26^ and 10 feet iu circum-
ference. The rocks belong mainly to the Calciferous
Limestone series, but diorite intrudes on Corstorphiue
Hill, and basalt at five dillcrent localities — on the coast,
at the Almond's mouth, and on its banks higher up.
Clay ironstone has been raised here by the Curron Com-
pany ; and a mmeral sining, iu the grounds of Barnton,
as Marchfield Spa enjoyed once some medicinal celebrity.
The soil is various, but on the whole is good. Oyster
and other fisheries have greatly declined in value, but
employment is given by Granton's industrial establish-
ments, by the ink and chemical works of Caroline
Park, by the British and Oriental Ship Coating Com-
pany, and by Cramond Iron Company, which dates from
1771. Families formerly connected with this parish
were those of Hope of Grantouu, Ramsay of Barnton,
Howison of Braehead, Adamson of Craigcrook, Inglis of
Cramond, Argyll, and Balmerino : amongst its illus-
trious natives or residents were John Law of Lauriston
(1671-1729), projector of the Mississippi scheme; Geo.
Cleghorn (1716-89), professor of anatomy in Dublin
University; Jas. Hamilton, M. D. (1749-1835); John
Philip Wood (1760-1838), antiquary; Archibald Con-
stable (1775-1827), the celebrated publisher; his sou
and biographer, Thomas Constable (1812-81) ; Scott s
darling, Marjorie Fleming (1803-11); Francis Lord
Jetfrey (1773-1850), the famous critic; and Andrew
Lord Rutherford (1791-1851), an eminent judge of ses-
sion. At Jlarchfield, too, the late William Sharpe ot
Hoddam bred ilarthaLynn, the dam of Voltigeur, from
whom all the best racing blood in England is tlfsceuded.
Cramond House, a little eastward from the village, is a
handsome and commodious mansion, founded about 1680,
and greatly enlarged in 1772 ; a square three-storied
CRAMOND BRIDGE
CRATHES CASTLE
tower to the XW is the only remains of a 15th century
palace of the Bishops of Dunkekl. Its present owner,
successor of the Inglises, is Lieut. -Col. John Cornelius
Craigie-Halkett (b. 18-30 ; sue. 1877), who holds 637
acres in Midlothian, valued at £2520 per annum. Other
mansions are Barntox, Bkaehead, Broomfield, Craig-
CROOK, Dry law, Lauristox, JIuiRHorsE,Cammo or Xeav
Saughtux, and Silverkxowes ; and 10 proprietors
hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 7 of
between £100 and £500, 7 of from £50 to £100, and 23
of from £20 to £50. Cramond is iu the presbytery of
Edinburgh and sjTiod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; the
li\"ing i5 worth £480. The cruciform parish church,
originally dedicated to St Columba, was rebuilt in 1656,
and, as enlarged in 1701 and ISll, contains 958 sittings.
Other places of worship are noticed imder Graxtox and
Davidsox's Maixs ; and five public schools — Cramond,
Cramond female, Davidson's Mains, Granton mixed and
infant, and Lennie — with respective accommodation for
164, 70, 123, 211, and 62 children, had (1880) an average
attendance of 86, 58, 98, 209, and 49, and grants of
£67, 6s., £46, 5s., £67, 9s., £16-3, 4s. 6d., and £36, 12s.
Valuation (1860) £23,078, (1882) £38,606, of which
£983 belonged to the Linlithgowshire section, and £3600
was for railwavs, waterworks, &c. Pop. (1801) 1411,
(1831) 1984, (1861) 2695, (1871) 3020, (1881) 2945, of
whom 84 belonged to Linlithgowshire. — Orel. Sur., sh.
32, 1857. See John P. Wood's Ancient and Modern
State of the Parish of Cramond (Edinb. 1794).
Cramond Bridge, a hamlet in Cramond parish, at the
boundary between Edinburgh and Linlithgow shires,
on the river Almond, and on the Queensferry highroad,
5 miles WXW of Edinburgh, and IJ mile SSW of
Cramond village. It has a post office under Cramond,
a good inn, and an eight-arched bridge, erected in 1823.
See Beaehead.
Cramond Regis. See Bakxtox.
Crane, a deep triangular lochlet (§ x J furl. ) in Dunsyre
parish, E Lanarkshire, amid the moorish south-western
Pentlands, 1100 feet above sea-level, and 3^ miles NW
of Dunsyre village. It abounds with perch and pike.
Cranloch. See St Axdrews, Elginshire.
Crannich. See Weem.
Cranshaws, a Lammermuir hamlet and parish in the
N of Berwickshire. The hamlet lies, 676 feet above
sea-level, on the right bank of "Whitadder Water, 16
milfs SE by E of Haddington, and 9 KW of Dunse,
under which it has a post office.
The parish consists of two sections, which are sepa-
rated from each other by a strip (J mile broad at the
narrowest) of Longformacus, and the northernmost of
which contains the hamlet. This, with an utmost
length and breadth of 2| and 22 miles, is bounded N
by the Gamelshiel section of Stenton in Haddington-
shire, E and S by Longformacus, and W by Whitting-
ham in Haddingtonshire. The southern and larger
division measures 5^ miles from E to W ; has a varying
width, from X to S, of IJ and 3| miles ; and is bounded
KW, N, and E by Longformacus, S by Greenlaw and
Westruther, and SW by Lauder. Including 30^ acres
of water, the total area is 8738;^ acres, of which 2589
belong to the northern, and 6149:^ to the southern, por-
tion. The Whitadder runs 3| miles on or near to the
northern and eastern border of Cranshaws proper, whose
highest points are Cranshaws Hill (1245 feet) and Main-
slaughter Law (1381) ; whilst Dye Water runs 5 miles
east-by-southward along all the northern boundary of
the lower division, whose surface rises from less than 700
feet above sea-level to 1298 on Dunside Hill and 1522 on
Blyth Edge. The rocks are Silurian ; and much of the soil
is poor, the arable land along the streams amounting to
only some 900 acres. A tumulus crowns Mainslaughter
Law, which is said to have got its name from the battle
fought in 1402 between Hejibum of Hailes and the Earl
of Dunbar. The fine old peel tower called Cranshaws
Castle, standing towards the centre of the northeni
section, measures 40 bv 24 feet, and is 65 feet high ; a
former stronghold of the Douglases, and the haunt of a
drudging brownie, it now is the seat of the eldest son
of the Earl of Morton, Sholto-George-Watson Douglas,
Lord Aberdour (b. 1844), who, holding 2551 acres in the
shire, valued at £1050 per annum, divides this parish
with 2 other landowners. It is in the presbytery of
Dunse and sjtioiI of Merse and Teviotdale; the living is
worth £200. The church, at the hamlet, was built in
1739, and contains 120 sittings ; whCst a public school,
with accommodation for 55 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 35, and a grant of £52, 14s. 6d.
Valuation (1882) £2492, 16s. Pop. (1801) 166, (1831)
136, '1861) 134, (1871) 142, (1881) 106.— Ord. Sur., sh.
33, 1863.
Cranston, a parish en the XE border of Edinburgh-
shire, containing the villages of CorsLAXD, Edgehead,
and Ford, the last being i mile W by N of Pathhead,
and 4J miles ESE of Dalkeith, under which it has a
post office, with money order, savings' bank, and tele-
graph departments. Irregular in outline, Cranston is
bounded XW by Inveresk ; X by Tranent, and E by
Ormiston and Humbie, in Haddingtonshire ; SW by
Crichton and Borthwitk ; and W by Xewbattle and
Dalkeith. Its greatest length, from XX'W to SSE, is 42
miles ; its breadth, from E to W, varies between 3^ fur-
longs and 3g miles ; and its area is 5102J acres, of which
2f are water, and 677^ belong to the Cakemuir section,
lying If mile S of the SE angle of the main body.
Ttxe Water, here a very small stream, bisects the
parish north-north-eastward, running chiefly within the
beautiful parks of Oxenford and Prestouhall. "\^^lere,
below TMiitehouse mill, it passes into Ormiston, the
surface sinks to 300 feet above sea-level, thence lising
north-westward to 500 feet near Airfield and 637
near Mutton Hole, whilst in the Cakemuir section it
attains an altitude of over 1000 feet. The formation
belongs to the Carboniferous Limestone series ; and
sandstone, limestone, and coal are largely worked, the
last in Edgehead and Prestonhall collieries. About 250
acres are under wood ; and nearly all the remaining area,
with the exception of rather less than a third of the
Cakemuir division, is in a state of high culrivation.
Cranston Dean Bridge, over the Tyne, on the southern
border, with three semicircular arches, each 17 feet in span
and 46 high, is a modem structure ; as likewise is Lothian
Bridge, also over the Tyne, which, 82 feet high, has five
semicircular arches, each 50 feet in span, sitrmounted
by ten segment arches of 54 feet in span and 8 feet of rise.
Cakemuir Castle is the chief and almost sole antiquity ;
the quaint old manse, near Prestonhall, having been de-
molished forty or fifty years since. A hospice formerly,
connected with that of Soutra, it bore the monkish
inscription — ' Diversorium infra, Habitaculum supra. '
To the Cranston family this parish gave the ritle of
Baron in the peerage of Scotland from 1609 till the
death of the last and eleventh Lord in 1869. The man-
sions are Oxextord and Prestoxhall, 4 proprietors
holding each an annual value of more, and 1 of less,
than £500. Cranston is in the presbytery of Dalkeith
and sjTiod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; the living is
worth £372. The parish church, near Ford, the second
built within this century, is a good Gothic edifice, with
a tower ; and at Ford itself is a U. P. church. Two
public schools, Cousland and Cranston, with respective
accommodation for 93 and 116 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of S3 and 113, and grants of £63, 6s.
and £99, 4s. Valuation (1882) £9048, including £19
for a shoi't reach of the !Macmerry branch of the X'orth
British. Pop. (1801) 895, (1831) 1030, (1861) 1035,
(1871) 1036, (1881) 998.— Ord. Sur., shs. 32, 33, 1857-
63.
Cranstonhall. See Glasgow.
Craspul or Craisaphuill, a loch (4| x 1^ furl.) in
Durness parish, XW Sutherland, 1 fuilong W of Dur-
ness manse, and ^ mile XE of Loch Bhrlay, like which
it is fed by subterraneous tunnels through limestone
rocks, and abounds in excellent trout.
Crathes Castle, a mansion in Banchory -Teman parish,
XW Kincardinesliire, ^ mile X of the left bank of the
Dee, and Ig WXW of Crathes station, this being 14
miles WSW of Aberdeen, and 3 E by X of Banchory. A
301
CRATHIE AND BRAEMAR
line old chateau-like btriictuiv, with a lofty gi-anite tower,
s([uare and turreted, it was built partly iu 152S, partly
at later periods, and is the seat of the Burnetts of Leys,
whose founder, Alexander de Burnard, in 1324 obtained
a charter of lauds in Kincardineshire. His great-grand-
son, Robert Burnett (flo. 1409), was the first ' Baron o'
Leys,' a title familiar from an ancient ballad ; and
Thomas Burnett, twelfth proprietor of Leys, and imcle
iif Bishop Gilbert Burnett, was in 1626 created a baronet
of Nova Scotia. His eighth descendant. Sir Robert
l>umett of Leys, eleventh Bart. (b. 1S33 ; sue. 1876),
iiwns 12,025 and 84 acres in Kincai'dine and Aberdeen
shires, valued at £5007 and £109 per annum. See
Banchory -Terxan.
Crathie and Braemar, a large parish of SW Aberdeen-
j-hire, whose church stands, 920 feet above sea-level,
near the left bank of the Dee, 7^ miles W by S of
Ilallater station, and 51 of Aberdeen, under which
Crathie has a post office.
The parish, containing also the village of Castletok,
comprises the ancient parish of Braemar, annexed at a
period unknown to record. It is bounded N by Kirk-
inichael in Banffshire, and by Strathdon ; NE by Glen-
muick ; SE by Glenmuick, and by Gleuisla in Forfarshire ;
S by Kirkmichael and Blair Athole, in Perthshire ; W by
the Glenfeshie portion of Ahne, in Inverness-shire ; and
XW by Duthil-Rothiemurchus, also in Inverness-shire.
Irregular in outline, it has a varying length from E to
W of 8^ and 24 miles, a varying width from N to S of
9J and 16| miles, and an area of 183,2371 acres, of
which 9S0f are water. The Dee, rising close to the
Inverness-shire border, runs 11 miles south-south-east-
ward to the Geldie's confluence, and thence winds 25^
miles east-north-eastward, mostly through the middle
of the parish, but for the last 4| miles along the
Glenmuick boimdary. During this course it descends
from 4060 feet above sea-level at its source to 1318
where it receives the Geldie, 1214 at the Linn of Dee,
1108 at Victoria Bridge near Mar Lodge, 872 opposite
Crathie manse, and 720 at the Girnock's confluence
in the furthest E ; its principal affluents here, all of
them rising in Crathie and Braemar, and all de-
scribed in separate articles, are Geldie Burn, Lui Water,
Ey Burn, Quoich Water, Clunie Water with its tributary
GaUader Burn, Feardar Burn, Gelder Burn, and Girnock
Burn. Lakes, witli their utmost length and breadth,
and with their altitude above sea-level, are Loch Etch-
achan (4 X 3i furl. ; 3200 feet). Loch Brodichan (21 x
1 furl. ; 2303 feet). Loch Callader (6J x 1^ furl. ; 1627
feet), Loch Ceannmor (1 J x f furl. ; 2196 feet), and
Lochxagar (2^ X 1| furl. ; 2570 feet), besides thirteen
smaller tarns. From W to E the chief elevations to the
left of the Dee are *Braeriach (4248 feet), *Bex Mac-
DHUi (4296), Derry Cairngorm (3788), Carn a ilhaim
(3329), Cam Crom (2847), Sgor Mor (2666», Carn j\Ior
(2057), *Beinna' Chaoruinn(3553), Beinn Bhreac(3051),
Meall na Guaille (2550), Creag a Bhuilg (2190), *Bena-
I'.OURD (3924), Carn Elrig Mor (2068), Carn Eas (3556),
Cam na Drochaide (2681), 'Ben Avon (3843), Carn
Liath (2821), Jleikle Elrick (2318), *Meikle Geal Charn
(2533), * Brown Cow Hill (2721), Culardoch (2933),
Craig Leek (2085), Meall Alvie (1841), Leac Ghorm
(1946), Tom Bhreae (2276), An Creagan (1857), and
Creag Mhor (1643), where asterisks mark those summits
that culminate on the borders of the parish. To the
left or W and S of the Dee rise Caiuxtoul (4241 feet).
The Devil's Point (3303), *Monadh Mor (3651), Beinn
Bhrotain (3795), Carn-Cloich-mhuilinn (3087), Duke's
Cliair (2010), Carn Geldie (2039), *Carn an Fhilleir
(3276), •AnSgarsoch (3300). Cnapan Garbh (2206), Carn
Liath (2676), * Beinn lutharn Mhor (3424), Mor Shron
(2819), Cam Aosda (3003), * The Cairnwell (3059), Sron
Dubh(1909), Carn an Tuirc (3340), * Cairn na Glasha
(3484), Creaf' Choinnich (1764), Carn nan Sgliat (2260),
Creag nan Leachda (2549), Meall an t-Sluichd (2771),
Creag Doineanta (1910), the Princess Royal's Cairn
(1479), Ripe Hill (1678), Cam Fiaclan (2703), •Locii-
NAOAU (3786), Princess Alice's Cairn (1278), Prince
Albert's Cairn (1437), Creag a Ghaill (1971), *Conach-
302
CRAWFORD
craig Hill (2777), *Meall Gorm (1809), and Creag
Ghiubhais (1593). Containing thus parts or the whole
of three of the four highest summits in Scotland, Crathie
presents a landscape as varied as it is beautiful — its
clear-flowing salmon river and sweep of valley with
broad plantations, green fields, and stately mansions, its
rounded corries and narrow glens, its somlare deer-forests
and heathery grouse moors, all set in a ring of trackless,
serrated mountains. (See Aberarder, Alt-na-Giutha-
sACH, Carr, Caiiixaqueex, Charters Chest, Coruie-
MULZiE, Craig-Cluxy, Craig-Gowax, Craig-na-Bax,
Garrawalt, Moxaltrie, etc.) The prevailing rock
is granite, alternating in jdaces with gneiss, lime-
stone, and quartz, near Castleton traversed by a vein of
serpentine ; the soil of the arable lands is generally a
light sandy loam. Woods and natural forests of Scotch
firs, larch, and birch must cover an enormous area,
acres on acres of rocky hillside having been planted with
millions of trees, both native and foreign, within the
last hundred years, whilst in Mar Forest are firs from
two to three centuries old, and containing 100 or 200
cubic feet of timber (pp. 273-275, 2'raiis. Highl. and Ag.
Soc. , 1874). The mansions are Balmoral Castle, Aber-
geldie Castle, Ixvercauld House, and Mar Lodge ;
the Queen, the Earl of Fife, and Farquharson of Inver-
cauld holding each an annual value of more, and 31
other proprietors of less, than £100. Giving off since
1879 the quoad sacra pai-ish of Braemar, Crathie is
in the presbytery of Kincardine O'Neil and S3'nod
of Aberdeen ; the living is worth £370. The parish
church is a plain edifice of 1806, seated for 800,
and adorned ■\\'ith a two-light stained-glass window,
erected by Her Majesty in 1873 to the memory of
Xorman Slacleod, who preached his first sermon as
court chapdain here on 29 Oct. 1854. At Easter Bal-
moral, on the opposite bank of the Dee, across a sus-
pension bridge, is Crathie Free church, ^vith a spire ;
other places of worship are noticed under Castletox.
Besides the school there, Crathie public, Aberarder,
Abergeldie female, and Crathie Side schools, with re-
spective accommodation for 98, 184, 39, and 67 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 65, 15, 18, and 35,
and grants of £48, 2s., £22, 17s., £14, 6s., and £46,
8s. 6d. Valuation (1860) £7868, (1881) £14,430. Pop.
(1801) 1876, (1831) 1808, (1861) 1574, (1871) 1566,
(1881) l61B.—0rd. Sur., shs. 65, 64, 75, 1870-76. See
the Rev. .Tames M. Crombie's Braemar and Balmoral
(2d ed. 1875).
Craufurdland Castle. See Crawfxjrdland.
Crawford, a village and a parish in the upper ward
and the south-eastern extremity of Lanarkshire. The
village, toward the NW corner of the parish, stands on
the left bank of the Clyde (here crossed by a chain bridge
of 75 feet span), opi)osite the influx of Midlock and
Camps Waters, and adjacent to the Caledonian railway,
2| miles SE of its post-town and station, Abington, this
being 43J miles SW of Edinburgh. Enjoying anciently
the privileges of a burgh of barony, it was, prior to the
railway period, an important resting-place for travellers,
but now is little more than a rural hamlet, with an
hotel, the parish cliurch, and a public school.
The parish, containing also the village of Leadhills,
is traversed for 12^ miles by the main trunk of the
Caledonian, wliich here attains its summit level (1012
feet), and here has the stations of Abington and Elvan-
foot. It is bounded N by Lamington ; NE by Culter ; E
by Tweedsmuir, in Peeblesshire ; SE by Jloflat and Kirk-
]iatrick-Juxta, in Dumfriesshire ; S by Closeburn, and
SW by Durisdeer and Sanquhar, all three also in Dum-
friesshire ; W and NW by Crawfordjolin. Its utmost
lengtli, from N to S, is 144 miles ; its breadth, from E to
W, varies between IJ and llg miles; and its area is
68,839i acres, of which 313 are water. Evax Water is
formed by several head-streams in the E of the parish ;
otherwise the drainage system has been alreadj' sketched
under the Clyde, which here from its source near the
soutliern boundary takes a northerly course of 28 miles,
and wliich here receives, on the left hand, Powtrail, Elvan,
and Glengonner Waters, ami, on the right, Little Clydes
CRAWFORDJOHN
CRAWFURDLAND CASTLE
Bum and Midlock and Camps Waters — all of tlieni rising
in Crawford, and all of them separately noticed. Where
the Cl3xle quits the parish, the surface sinks to 800 feet
above sea-level, these rising southward, south-eastward,
and eastward to mountain watersheds of the Southern
Highlands, which separate Clydesdale from Nithsdale,
Annandale, and Tweeddale The chief elevations from
N to S to the W of the Clvde are Eavengill Dod
(1758 feet), Wellgrain Dod (1813), Lousie Wood Law
(2028), Dun Law (2216), Green Lowther (2403), and
Ballencleuch Law (2267) ; whilst to the E rise South-
wood Rig (1556), the Pinnacle (1819), *Coomb Dod
(2082), YearngiU Head (1804), Wintercleuch Fell (1804),
*Whiteside Hill (1817), and Earncraig Hill (2000), where
asterisks mark those summits that culminate on the
borders of the parish. The glens or vales for the most
part have considerable breadth of bottom, and are partly
dry, partly wet and spongy. The rocks are in places
metamorphic, but chiefly Silurian. Roofing slate has
been worked in one small quarry ; lead ore is extensively
mined at Leadhills, where also many valuable minerals,
as gold, silver, calamine, blende, manganese, malachite,
azure copper ore, iron pjTites, etc., have been found.
The soU on the banks of the Clyde, and near the mouths
of its affluents, is variously alluvial, loamy, sandy, and
gravelly ; that of nearly all the remaining area is moorish.
About 2200 acres are arable, less than 160 are under
wood, and all the rest is either pastoral or waste.
Crawford Castle, or Tower Lindsay, on the right bank
of the Clyde, opposite Crawford village, is a ruined
baronial stronghold, once defended by a moat ; from the
close of the 12th century till 1488 it was the seat of the
Lindsays, who in 1398 received the earldom of C^a^^•fo^d.
(See Cults and Balcarees.) The parish is traversed
b}' a Roman road, branching off near Elvanfoot to Xiths-
dale and Annandale, and flanked by two well-preserved
Roman camps on Boadsberry HUl and White Camp
farm. It also contains three native camps or hill-forts,
and the sites of several pre-Reformation chapels. jSTew-
ton House is the only mansion ; but the property is
divided among 12 landowners, 8 holding each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 1 of between £100 and £500,
1 of from £50 to £100, and 2 of from £20 to £50.
Detaclied from Leadhills for church and school and
registration purposes, Crawford is in the presbytery of
Lanark and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is
worth £335. The church, rebuilt in 1875, contains
2S0 sittings ; and three public schools — Crawford, Daer-
Powtrail, and Summit — with respective accommodation
for 103, 27, and 53 children, had (1880) an average
attendance of 57, 14, and 22, and gi'ants of £71, 93.,
£27, 16s., and £32, 14s. Valuation (1860) £13,774,
(1S82) £22,598, 17s. Pop. of civil parish (1801) 1671,
(1831) 1850, (1861) 1590, (1871) 1829, (1881) 1763;
oiq. s. parish (1881) 698.— Orel. Sur., shs. 15, 16, 1864.
Crawfordjolm, a village and a parish in the SW of
the upper ward of Lanarkshire. The village stands, 950
feet above sea-level, near the left bank of Duneaton
Water, 6| miles N by E of Leadhills, and 4 W of its
post-town and station, Abington, this being 43^ miles
SW of Edinburgh. At it are a post office, 2 inns, the
manse, the parish church, and a public school ; and by
Dorothy Wordsworth, who, with her brother and Cole-
ridge, drove through it in August 1803, it was described
as ' a pretty, cheerful-looking village, but one that must
be very cold in A\'inter, for it stands on a hillside, and
the vale itself is very high gi'ound, unsheltered by
trees.' One specialty has Crawfordjohn, that the curl-
ing-stones made at it are the best to be found in
Scotland.
The parish, containing also Abixgton village, is
bounded N by Douglas, NE by Wiston, E by Laraing-
ton, SE by Crawford, SW by Sanquhar and Kirkconnel
in Dumfriesshire, W by Auchinleck and Muirkirk in
Ayrshire. Its utmost length is 12J miles from E by N
to W by S, viz. , from Abington to the Ayrshire boundary ;
its breadth diminishes from 9| miles in the E to 7 furlongs
in the W ; and its area is 26,460^ acres, of which 103;}: are
Water. The Clyde flows 2i miles northward along all the
eastern boundary, whilst the south-eastern is traced for
24 miles by its afiluent, Glengonner Water. Snar Water,
draining the south-eastern district, runs 6 miles north-
ward to Duneaton Water ; and Duxeatox Water itself
rises close to the Ayrshire border, and thence winds 19
miles east-by-northward to the Clyde, its first 6j miles
following the Douglas, and its last If mile the Wiston,
boundary. Where the Clyde quits the parish, the sur-
face sinks to 750 feet above sea-level, thence rising to
1130 at Knock Leaven, 1260 at Black Hill, 1400 at
Mountherrick, 1584 at Drake Law, 1620 at Rake Law,
1808 at Wanlock Dod (just within Sanqubar), 1616 at
Cairn Kinny, and 1843 at Stony Hill (just within
Auchinleck). The rocks are mainly metamorphic and
Silurian, partly carboniferous ; and they include lime-
stone and white sandstone, with traces of coal and of lead
and copper ores. The soil of some of the low gi-ounds
along the streams is a deep rich loam', of others sandy
or gravelly ; whilst here and there on the hill-slopes it
is a strong red clay, and elsewhere generally moorish.
Some 3200 acres are arable, and not more than 50 are
under wood. Vestiges of three old castles are at Moss
Castle, Glendorch, and Snar ; and ti-aces of one large
ancient camp crown the SE shoulder of Black Hill ;
whilst near Shieldholm is another, supposed to be
Roman. In 1839, the Eglinton Tournament year. Prince
Louis Napoleon, Fi'ench emperor that was to be, arrived
at Abington inn, wet, tired, and hungry, from a day's
grouse-shooting on Crawford Muir. He could get no
sitting-room, so took bis supper by the kitchen fire,
slipped away to bed, and early next morning started again
on foot. Abington House is the only mansion ; and 3
proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and up-
wards, 6 of between £100 and £500, and 5 of from £20
to £50. Giving off a small portion to LeadhUls quoad
sacra parish, Crawfordjohn is in the presbytery of Lanark
and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth
£356. The parish church, enlarged and repewed in 1817,
contains 310 sittings. At Abington is a Free church ;
and three schools — Crawfordjohn, '\^^litecleuch, and
Abington — with respective accommodation for 72, 23,
and 93 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 64,
12, and 50, and grants of £54, 17s., £27, 8s. 2d., and
£53. Valuation (1882) £11,007, 193. Pop. (1801) 712,
(1831) 991, (1861) 980, (1871) 853, (1881) 8id.—0rd.
Sur., sh. 15, 1864.
Crawford Priory, a mansion in the N of Cults parish,
central Fife, near the right bank of the Eden, 3 miles
SW of Cupar. Built in 1813 by Lady Mary Lindsay
Cra^rford, who in 1808 had succeeded to the Crawford-
Lindsay estates on the death of her brother, the twenty-
second Earl of Crawford, it was originally a splendid castel-
lated edifice in the Gothic style, but fell into neglect and
dilapidation, till in 1871-72 it was thoroughly renovated
and enlarged, a carriage porch and vestibule being then
erected at the S entrance, and a Gothic tower and spire,
115 feet high, at the E side, whilst a portion of the
interior was converted into a private Episcopal chapel.
It now is a seat of George Frederick Boyle, sixth Earl of
Glasgow (b. 1825 ; sue. 1869), who owns 5625 acres in
the shire, valued at £9085 per annum. See also CuM-
brae, Hawkhead, and Kelburx.
Crawfordton, an estate, with a modem mansion, in
Glencairn parish, W Dumfriesshire, IJ mile from
Moniaive. Its owner, George Gustavus Walker, Esq.
(b. 1831), was county member 1865-68 and 1869-74;
and holds 7660 acres in the shire, valued at £3478 per
annum.
Crawfurdland Castle, a mansion in Kilmarnock
parish, Ayrshire, on the left bank of Crawfurdland
Water, 3 miles NE of Kilmarnock town. Comprising
a strong, tliick-walled, ancient tower, and a fine modern
Gothic centre, it has been for upwards of six centuries
the seat of a branch of the Craufurds ; its present holder,
Lieut. -Col. Jn. Reg. Houison-Craufurd (b. 1811; sue.
1871), owns 1876 acres in the shire, valued at £1988
per annum. (See also Braehead.) Crawfurdland Water,
formed by two head-streams in Fenwick parish, close to
tlie Renfrewshire border, winds 8^ miles south-westward
303
CRAWICK
through Fenwick and Kilmarnock parishes, and, IJ mile
NNE of Kilmarnock town, unites with the Fenwick to
form Kilmarnock Water.— Orrf. Sur., sh. 22, 1865.
Crawick, a rivulet of NW Dumfriesshire, formed, at
780 feet above sea-level and -within a mile of the Lanark-
shire border, by the confluence of Wanlock and Spango
Waters. Thence it winds 8 miles south-south-westward
along the boundary between Sanquhar and Kirkconnel
parishes, and fulls "into the Nith f mile WNW of San-
quhar town. — Ord. Sur., sh. 15, 1864.
Crawick Mill, a village in Sanquhar and Kirkconnel
parishes, Dumfriesshire, on Crawick Water, 1 mile NW
of Sanquhar town. It lies within Sanquhar burgh
bounds, and has an extensive carpet and tartan factory.
Cray, a place in Kirkniiehael parish, NE Perthshire,
on the left bank of Shee Water, 15 miles N by W of
Hlairgowrie. Here are a Free church and Cray House,
whose Q-wner, Mrs Robertson, holds 437 acres in the
shire, valued at £113 per annum.
Crayinch, a wooded islet of Kilmaronock parish, Dum-
bartonshire, in Loch Lomond, ^ mile NE of Inchmurrin.
Triangular in shape, it measures 2 by 1 J furlongs.
Creack, a village in Auchindoir parish, W Aberdeen-
shire, 3i miles SW of Rhynie.
Creagach. See Ciiaggie.
Creca. See Axxan.
Cree, a river of Galloway, issuing from Loch Moan,
which lies, 675 feet above sea-level, on the mutual
boundary of Ajt and Kirkcudbright shires. Thence it
winds 11 miles south-south-westward along that bound-
ary, and next 21J miles south-eastward along all the
boundary between Kirkcudbright and Wigtown shires,
past Newton -Stewart, till at Creetown it falls into the
head of Wigtown Bay, the lena jEstiiarium of Ptolemy.
On its right lie the parishes of Barr, Colmonell, and Pen-
ninghame, on its left of MinnigatT and Kirkmahreck ;
and on its left it receives Minnoch Water, Penkill Burn,
and Palnure Burn. Navigable for small craft as high
as Carty, it assumes near Penninghame House a lake-
like appearance, widening at intervals to close on a
furlong ; here were of old the celebrated ' Cruives of
Cree,' i.e., salmon-traps in the stone cauls or dam-dykes,
which, serving the country-folk for bridges, came to be
well-known landmarks. Throughout most of its lower
course the 'crystal Cree' flows through flat flowery
meadows, its banks being only occasionally adorned Avith
heathery knolls and lichened or fern-clad rocks ; but
from Bargrennan upwards its scenery is wild and moun-
tainous, a succession of desolate moorlands. Trout may
be caught in considerable quantities in the upper waters ;
salmon and sea-trout at several good casts about Penning-
hame House ; and smelt or sperling, during March, in
the brackish waters of the estuary. — Ord. Sur., shs. 8,
4, 1857-63. See pp. 12-22 of Wm. M'Hraith's Wigtovm-
shire (2d ed., Dumf., 1877).
Creebridge, a village, with a public school, in Minni-
gaff parish, Kirkcudl)rightsliire, on the left bank of the
Cree, opposite Newton-Stewart, with which it is con-
nected by a five-arch bridge, erected in 1813 at a cost of
£6000.
Creed (Gael. Av^Jiuinn Ghride), a rivulet in the S of
Stornoway parish, Lewis island, Ross-shire. Formed
by two head-streams at an altitude of 300 feet above sea-
level, it winds 9J miles east-south-eastward to the
western side of Stornoway Harbour, f mile SSW of
Stornoway town. It traverses Loch an Oash and Loch
a Chlachain, and makes a fall opposite Sir James
Matheson's Grotto, up to which point it abounds in sea-
trout, grilse, and salmon. — Ord. Sitr., sh. 105, 1858.
Creeinch. See Crayixch.
Creetown, a small seaport towTi in Kirkmabreck parish,
SW Kirkcudbrightshire, on the estuary of the river
<Jree or head of Wigtown Bay, 3| miles as the crow
Hies NE of Wigtown, and 1 mile S of Creetown station
on the Portpatrick railway, this being 64 miles SE of
Newton -Stewart, and 43^ WSW of Dumfries. A
village, called Creth, occupying its site, was in 1300 the
rendezvous of an PZnglish army ; and either that village
or a successor to it, bearing the name «f Ferrytown of
304
CREICH
Cree, became nearly extinct in the ISth century. The
present town, founded in 1785, embraced some houses
which still remained of the old village, and was made a
burgh of barony in 1792, to be governed by a bailie and
four councillors, elected triennially by the resident
feuars. It stands between Moneypool and English-
man's Burns, amid a great expanse of beautiful scenery ;
and, chiefly consisting of modern houses, each with its
garden and orchard, relies in great measure for support
on the neighbouring granite quarries. At it are a post
office, with money order, savings' bank, and railway
telegrajih departments, 2 chief inns, a public school,
the parish church (1834 ; 800 sittings), and a neat U.P.
church (300 sittings) ; whilst in the immediate neigh-
bourhood are the mansions of Barholm and Cassencarie.
Capt. Jas. Murray Denniston (1770-1857), author of
Legends of Galloway, died at Creetown. Pop. (1841)
984, (1851) 1302, (1861) 968, (1871) 805, (1881) 970.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 4, 1857.
Creggans. See SritACHrR.
Creich, a parish of N Fife, extending to within 5
furlongs of the Firth of Tay, and containing the villages
of Luthrie and Brunton, each ^vith a post office under,
and respectively 54 and 6| miles NW of, Cupar-Fife.
It is bounded NW by Flisk, NE by Balmerino, E by
Kilmany and Moonzie, S by Monimail, SW by Dunbog,
and W by the easternmost section of Abdie, having
an utmost length from NNE to SSAV of 3^ miles, a
width of 1| mile, and an area of 2341 acres. The sur-
face, sinking in the south-eastern corner to less than
200 feet above sea-level, is elsewhere a congeries of hills,
which on the NW border attain 568 feet, and at Black
Craig in the NE 665 — heights that command a magni-
ficent view of the Tay's basin, away to the Sidlaws and
the Gi'ampians. Some of the hills are cultivated to the
top ; others are partly covered with plantations ; and
others, again, are rocky and heathy. Several burns,
rising here, unite near Luthrie to form Motray Water, a
tributary of the Eden. The rocks, eruptive mainly,
include greenstone, am3'gdaloid, clinkstone, and basalt ;
and a laminar or stratified trap has been worked in one
quarry, basaltic clinkstone in another. The soil is vari-
able, ranging from black or thin sharp gravelly loam to
clay or moss. On Green Craig is a hill-fort, consisting
of two concentric lines of circumvallation ; and a little
to the SE are the ruins of the old parish church, and of
Creich Castle, which, three stories high, and 47 feet long
by 39 broad,' appears to have been a place of very
considerable strength, and was defended on one side by
a morass, now drained, on the other by outworks. In
1502 the estate around it was acquired from the Littles
or Liddels by Sir David Bethune, whose daughter,
Janet, Lady Buccleuch, is the ' Lad ye of Branxholm '
in Sir Walter's Lay, and whose great-granddaughter
was one of the ' Queen's four Maries ; ' it passed by
purchase to the Bethunes of Balfour about the middle
of the 17th century. Of Parbroath Castle, a seat of the
Setons, in the S of the parish, hardly a vestige remains.
Natives were the Rev. Alex. Henderson (1583-1646),
the zealous Covenanter, and John Sage (1652-1711),
nonjuring Archbishop of Glasgow. Creich is in the
presbytery of Cupar and synod of Fife ; the living is
worth £282. The parish church, i mile NNW of
Luthrie, is a good Gothic structure, built in 1832, and
containing 252 sittings. A Free church stands near
Brunton. The public school, with accommodation for
80 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 74, and
a grant of £59, 8s. Valuation (1882) £4044, 16s. 8d.
Pop. (1801) 405, (1831) 419, (1861) 377, (1871) 387,
(1881) 386.— On/. Stir., sh. 48, 1868.
Creich, a very large Highland pari.sh in the S of
Sutherland, containing, towards its SE corner, the
village of Bon.\r-Bridge, and traversed for 5g miles by
the Sutherland railway, with Invershin station thereon,
3i miles NNW of Ardgay, and 17^ NW of Tain. It is
bounded at its north-western extremity by Assynt and
Eddrachillis ; along its north-eastern side by Lairg,
Rogart, and Dornoch ; at its south-eastern corner by the
upper waters of Dornoch Firth which separate it from
CREID
Edderton in Eoss-shire ; and along its south-western
side by Kincardine, likewise in Koss-shire. From SE to
NW its greatest length is 31^ miles ; its breadth vaiies
between 1| and 9^ miles ; and its area is 110,736f acres,
of which 735 are foreshore and 1911^ water, it thus
being nearly half the size of all Midlothian. Lakes
of the interior, from SE to NW, Avith their utmost
length and width and their altitude above sea-level, are
Loch MiGDALE (2 miles x 3 furl. ; 115 feet) Loch a'
Ghobhair (4x1 furh ; 7-12 feet). Loch an Lagain (7^ x
If furl. ; 446 feet), sending off the Evelix, Loch Laro
(7ixli furh ; 600 feet), Loch na Claise Moire (7x3
fiu'l. ; 774 feet), Loch na Faichde (4x1^ furl. ; 1400
feet). Loch Garn nan Conbhairean (4 x If furl. ; 1104
feet), and a number of smaller tarns. On the Dornoch
border lies Loch BriE (1^ x J mile ; 527 feet) ; on the
Rogart, Loch Cracail Mor (6xlJ furh ; 620 feet); on
the Kincardine, Loch Ailsh (7 x 4^ furl. ; 498 feet) ; and
on the Eddrachillis, Gorm Loch Mor (7x4 furl. ; 846
feet). The river Cassley, issuing from the last, hurries
2O2 miles south-eastward along tlie middle of the parish
to the OiKELL, which itself winds So^ miles south-
south-eastward and east-south-eastward along all the
Kincardine boundary, through Loch Ailsh and the Kyle
of Sutherland, to the head of Dornoch Firth, at Bonar-
Bridge. At Invershin, lower down than the Cassley, it is
joined from the N by the Shix, whose last 5J miles lie
either on the boundary with Lairg or through the
interior of Creich. The surface, hilly everywhere, in
the NW is mountainous, attaining 1090 feet on ileall
Moraig, 937 on Meall Mor, 1318 on Cnoc a Choire, 1341
on Beinn an Rasail, 1785 on Beinn na Eoin, 2345 on
Meall an Aonaich, and 3273 on Benmore Assynt, the
loftiest summit of Sutherland. Benmore is made up of
Silurian quartzite and trap ; lower down are carboni-
ferous and Old Picd sandstone rocks. Very hard trap
has been worked in two quarries : and a small vein of
manganese occurs at Rosehall, which, in common with
Flode, Pulrossie, and other places, also yields excellent
clay ; but coal and shale have been sought for in vain.
Woods cover a considerable area round Bonar-Bridge,
where the soil of the plough-lands is mostly a light
gravelly loam ; and there are several good arable and
sheep farms. The largest of the latter is Invercassley,
which, extending to 35,000 acres, comprises much
black land, lying high, and so exposed to wind and
frost. Prof. Harry Rainy, M.D. (1792-1876), was a
native. Antiquities are a ' Pictish tower ' and a stone
circle near Rosehall, two groups of stone circles near
Bonar-Bridge, and, near the church, a vitrified fort on
the Dun of Creich and a standing stone, 8 feet long by
4 bro^d, which is said to have been reared on the grave
of a Danish chieftain. Rosehall House is the principal
mansion, and 3 proprietors hold each an annual value
of £1800 and upwards, 3 of between £500 and £830, 4
others of more, and 2 of less, than £100. Creich is in
the presbytery of Dornoch and synod of Sutherland ;
the living is worth £260. The parish church, on Dor-
noch Firth, 3| miles ESE of Ardgay, was built in 1790,
and contains 500 sittings. There are also two Free
churches of Creich and Rosehall ; and four public
schools — Bonar-Bridge, Invershin, Larachan, and Rose-
hall — with respective accommodation for 158, 47, 100,
and 90 children, had (1880) an average attendance of
60, 20, 47, and 71, and grants of £50, 15s., £34, £53, 13i3.
6d., and £60, lis. 6d. Valuation (1860) £5466, (1882)
£11,732, lis. 4d., including £649 for railway. Pop.
(1801) 1974, (1831) 2562, (1861) 2521, (1871) 2524,
(1881) 2223, of whom 1571 were in Bonar, and 652 in
Rosehall, registration district. — Ord. Sur., sh. 102, 1881.
Creid. See Creed.
Creinch. See Ceayinch.
Creoch, Loch. See Cumnock, New.
Cretan, a stream and a sea-loch in the N of Argyll-
shire, separating the district of Appin from the parish
of Ardchattan. The stream rises 4f miles SSE of Balla-
chulish, on the south-western slope of Sgor na h-Ulaidh
(3258 feet), at 2500 feet above sea-level, and thence winds
11^ miles west-south-westward to the head of the sea-loch.
20
CRICHTON
The lower part of its glen is finely wooded, and here it
receives the Ure, and traverses Loch Fasnacloich ; its
waters are strictly preserved, and the salmon and trout
fishing is good. — The sea-loch curves 8 miles west-south-
westward, nm-th -westward, and south-westward to Loch
Linnhe, opposite the upper part of Lismore Island, and
nowhere is more than 1| mile broad, whilst narrowing
to 2 furlongs at its mouth near Shian Ferry, and to 1
furlong towards its head near Creagan Ferry, being
crossed at these two ferries by different routes from Oban
to Ballachulish. With an average depth of 15 fathoms,
and a spring-tid« of 15 feet, it affords good harbourage
in all its lower parts. By Dorothy Wordsworth it is
described as ' a large irregular sea-loch, with low sloping
banks, coppice woods, and uncultivated grounds, with a
scattering of cornfields ; as it appeared to us, very
thinly inhabited ; mountains at a distance.' See Glex-
ceeeax. — Orel. Sur., shs. 45, 53, 1876-77.
Creth. See Ceeetown.
Crianlarich, a hamlet in Killin parish, W Perthshire,
at the mouth of Strathfillan, with a station on the Cal-
lander and Oban railwa}-, 5^ miles SE of Tyndrum.
Lying 522 feet above sea-level, it has an hotel and a
public school, and by coach communicates with Ardlui
at the head of Loch Lomond, 9 miles to the SSAV.
Crib Law, a hill (1389 feet) in the Selkirkshire por-
tion of Roberton parish, 3 miles ENE of the meeting-
point of Selkirk, Roxburgh, and Dumfries shires.
Crichie, a hill (500 feet) in the N of Kintore parish,
Aberdeenshire, If mile S by W of Inverurie. Bruce
was encamped here in 1308 at the time of his victory
over the Comj-ns in Bocetie parish.
Crichie House, a mansion in Old Deer parish, NE
Aberdeenshire, | mile SE of Stuartfield.
Crichope Linn. See Closebuex.
Crichton, a parish on the E border of Edinburghshire,
containing, at its northern extremity, the village of
Pathhead, on the road from Edinburgh to Lauder, 5
miles ESE of Dalkeith, and 3| N of Tynehead station.
Tynehead itself and Fala Dam hamlet "(2| miles SE of
Pathhead) also belong to Crichton, which is bounded
NE by Cranston and by Humbie in Haddingtonshire,
SE by Fala, the Blackshiels section of Humbie, the
Cakemuir section of Cranston, the CowbraehUl section
of Borthwick, and the Falahill section of Stow, SW and
W by the main body of Borthwick. Its utmost length,
from N to S, is 4i miles ; its width, from E to W, varies
between 3§ furlongs and 3^ miles ; and its area is 4821^
acres, of which nearly f acre is water. Ttxe Water,
rising close to Tynehead station, meanders 3 miles
north-north-eastward along all the western border ; the
interior is drained by several subaffluents of Humbie
Water. The surface, sinking near Pathhead to close on
400 feet above sea-level, and to 600 at Costerton, attains
804 feet at a point 7 furlongs ESE of the church, and
900 upon Crichton Moss. The rocks belong mainly to
the Carboniferous Limestone series, •with a patch of basalt
on the higher ground ; limestone has been largely worked ;
and coal occurs, though not under conditions to be pro-
fitably mined. The soil over fully four-fifths of the
area is rich and deep, accessible most of it to the plough,
and yielding abimdant crops ; the high lands are shel-
tered by belts of thriving plantation. A ri<iug-gi-ound
at Longfaugh, commanding a wide and beautiful pro-
spect, is crowned by remains of a fort, supposed by some
to be a Roman camp ; but Crichton's chief antiijuity
is Crichton Castle, a magnificent massive ruin, which
forms the grand feature in the landscape, as it rises from
a projecting terrcplein within a hundred yards or so of
the top of the hill on the Tyne's right bank, ^ mile S of
the church. A Turstan de Creicliton is one of the
witnesses to the charter of foundation of Holyrood
Abbey (1128) ; his most famous descendant was Sir
William Crichton, the founder of both castle and church,
who, as chancellor of Scotland, was alternately rival and
friend of Sir Alexander Livingston, and who in 1440 at
Edinburgh Castle beheaded the young Earl of Douglas
and his brother — an act of treachery for which his own
fortress was taken and dismantled by the Douglases. (See
305
CRICHTON
Douglas Castle. ) In 1445 Sir William was made Lord
Crifhton, the third holder of which title lost his estates
in 14S4 for joining Albany against James III. After four
years' tenure bv the minion Ramsay, they were granted
in 14SS to Patrick Hepburn, first Earl of^BoTHWELL, by
whose great-grandson, Darnley's murderer, they were
once more forfeited in 1567. Nine years later James VI.
bestowed them on his ill-starred cousin, Francis Stewart,
fifth Earl of Bothwell; and subsequently they passed
through the hands of a dozen proprietors, from one of
whom, Hepburn of Humbie {c. 1649), the Castle was
nicknamed Humbie's Wa's, till at last they came to the
Callendars. Queen Mary feasted in the castle hall, on
occasion of the marriage here of her natural brother. Sir
John Stewart ; but Crichton's chief interest lies, with
most readers, in the visit paid to it by ' Marmion. '
Scott's lines describe the ruin faithfully : —
' Crichton ! though now thy miry court
But pens the lazy steer and sheep;
Thy turrets rude, and tottcr'd keep.
Have been the minstrel's loved resort.
Oft have I traced within thy fort,
Of mouldering shields the mystic sense.
Scutcheons of honour or pretence,
Quarter'd in old armorial sort,
Remains of rude magnificence.
Nor wholly yet has time defaced
Thy lordly gallery fair ;
Nor yet the stony cord unbraced.
Whose twisted knots, with roses laced.
Adorn thy ruin'd stair.
Still rises unimpair'd below
The courtyard's graceful portico
Above its cornice, row and row
Of fair hewn facets richly show
Their pointed diamond form.'
'Crichton,' he adds in the Notes, 'is a large ruinous
castle on the banks of the Tyne, built at different times,
and ^vith a very dilferent regard to splendour and accom-
modation. The oldest part of the building is a narrow
keep or tower, such as formed the mansion of a lesser
Scottish baron ; but so many additions have been made
to it, that there is now a large courtyard, surrounded by
buildings of different ages. The eastern front of the
court is raised above a portico, and decorated with
entablatures bearing ancliors. All the stones in this
front are cut into diamond facets, the angular projections
of which have an uncommonly rich appearance. The
inside of this part of the building appeal's to have con-
tained a gallery of great length and uncommon elegance.
Access was given to it by a magnificent staircase, now
quite destroyed. The soffits are ornamented with twin-
ing cordage and rosettes ; and the whole seems to have
been far more splendid than was usual in Scottish
castles.' So that Crichton still offers a signal contrast
to its grim square neighbour, Borthwick, even although,
since Sir Walter's day, its courtyard has been encum-
bered by the fall of a huge portion of the massive north-
eastern tower. Costerton House, 3^ miles ESE of
Pathhead, at the eastern extremity of the parish, is
the principal mansion, the seat of David Ainslie,
Esq. ; and the property is mostly divided among 5
heritors. Crichton is in the presbytery of Dalkeith and
.synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; the living is worth
£353, exclusive of manse and glebe. The collegiate
church of SS. JIary and Kentigern, 1| mile SSW of
Pathhead, was founded in 1449 for a provost, 8 pre-
bendaries, a sacrist, and 2 singing boys. Second
Pointed in style, it was to have been cruciform, but
never received the nave, so now comprises a chancel,
with sedilia ; transej)ts, the northern of which is blocked
up with an un.siglitly vault ; and a massive, square,
sad<lie-backed tower. The chancel, which, serving for
parish church, contains 500 sittings, is disfigured by a
gallery, and several of the windows have been blocked
up ; but the whole might at no great cost be restored to
its pristine beauty. A public school, with accommoda-
tion for 209 children, had (1880) an average attendance
of 183, and a grant of £174, lis. Valuation (1882)
£8343, including £532 for railway. Pop. (1801) 923,
(1831) 1325, (1861) 1364, (1871) 1223, (1881) 1094.—
Ord. Snr., slis. 32, 33, 1857-63. See Billings' Baronial
306
CRIEFF
and Ecclesiastical Antiquities (1845) ; Sir Thos. Dick
'La.wiiev's Scottish Rivers {new gA. 1874); and J. W. SmaU's
Leaves from my Sketch Books (1880).
Crichup Linn. See Closeburn.
Criech. See Creich.
Crieff (Gael, crubha, ' haunch '), a to^\•n and a parish
of central Perthshire. The town stands on ground
ascending from the Earn's left bank, 100 to 400 feet
above sea-level, at the terminus of the Crietl" Junction
and the Crieff & Methven branches of the Caledonian,
opened respectively in 1856 and 1866. By road it
is 6h miles E by S of Connie, and by rail 18 W of
Perth, 108 SW of Aberdeen, 38 WSW of Dundee, 9
NNW of Crieff Junction, 26 NNE of Stirling, 62^ NNW
of Edinburgh, and 56;^ NNE of Glasgow. Boldly rest-
ing on a sunny or southward slope, and sheltered from
cold winds by pine-clad eminences, this ' Montpelier of
Scotland ' has long been famous for its pure, dry
climate no less than for its exquisite sunoundings.
' From every street,' to quote the Beauties of Upper
Strathearn, ' a landscape of rare sweetness and beauty is
disclosed. The valley, here widening to 10 or 15 miles,
is studded E, S, and AV, as far as the eye can reach,
with mansions and villages, embowered in oak or pine
woods. Here and there the Earn — no mean stream — is
seen gliding along its winding course, now with the
dash of a mountain torrent, and anon with the measured
tread of a royal pageant, till the eastern view is lost
under the receding slopes of the Ochils. On the N and
NAV the Grampians, with Bex Choxzie (3048 feet) for
centre piece, rear their dark forms against the sky-line,
in summer and autumn shining in their natural bloom.'
Charters were dated from Crieff so long ago as 1218,
and for centuries it has been recognised as the capital of
Strathearn, the seat of the great civil jurisdiction of tlie
Earls Palatine till 1483, and of the criminal courts of
the Stewards or Seneschals down to the abolition of herit-
able jurisdiction in 1748. The 'kind gallows of Crieff,'
whence sometimes of a morning a score of plaids had
dangled in a row, still stood at the western end of tlie
town, when Scott came hither in 1796 ; and he notes in
Waverley how the Highlanders M'ould touch their
bonnets to it, with the ejaculation — ' God bless her nain
sell, and the Tiel tamn you ! ' To this day may be seen
the ponderous iron stocks, and near them an octagonal
stone fleur-de-lis, 10 feet in heiglit, tlie cross of the
burgh of regality of Drummond (1688) ; whilst further
to the eastward is the Cross of Crieft', transferred to its
present position little more than a century since from
the ancient barony of Trowan, and by some archieolo-
gists pronounced to be of Norman, by others of Runic,
character {Sculptured Stones of Scotland, 1867). Other
antiquities the town has none ; for its massy Tolbooth
of 1685, with cage and clock-tower and corbie-stepped
gables, was demolished in 1842 ; and, though it gave
shelter to the great Montrose, Crieff dwindled into a
mere kirktown between 1483 and 1683. Then it began
to revive, George Drummond of Milnab, afterwards
provost of Edinburgh, giving off pieces of his lands in
feu ; but on 26 Jan. 1716, it was burned to the last house
by 350 of the Chevalier's Highland adherents. For
some years it lay in ruins ; but from 1731 James Drum-
mond, titular third Duke of Perth, bestirred himself in
the work of repair and improvement, laying out James
Square and extending the town westward, whilst found-
ing a large linen factory. This was destroyed in tlie
'45, when tlie loyal town narrowly escaiied a second
singeing, and the Drummond estates were forfeited to
the Crown. By the commissioners, however, who
managed them from 1752 to 1784,* bleacliing, tanning,
* In 1784 the Drummond estates were conferred by George III.
on Captain James Druiiininnd, who claiiiicd to be heir-male of
Lord .Tohn Drummoiid, brother of the third Duke of Perth,
and who, In 1707, was created Haron Perth. They now are held
by his grand-daughter, Clementina Heatlicdte-Drumniond -Wil-
loughby. Baroness Willoughby de Eresby, and Joint Hereditary
Chamberlain of Kngland, having been uiisiiecessfully claimed
(lSfJS-71) by George Drummond, Earl of Perth and Melfort, aa
nearest heir-male of the third Duke. See Dkliimu.n1) Castlk,
Pkktu, and Strathearn.
CRIEFF
paper-making, and other imlustries were fostered to a
height that bade fair to make Crietf an important
industrial centre ; and the woollen manufacture was
added in 1812, about which time three whisky distil-
leries, with eight malting house, were also started. The
last were all closed in 1S28 ; and, generally speaking,
Crielfs mauufaetui'es received a signal blow from tlie
termination of the great war with France, as well as from
changes in fashions, machinery, and modes of transit.
Prospects brightened once more with the opening of the
railway ; and since 1856 Crieft .\\s made rapid progress,
so that, where scarcely thirty years ago villas and cot-
tages ornees were 'almost totally wanting,' they now
may be counted by dozens, and only within the last
decade £200,^^00 has been expended on new buildings.
Wordsworth and his sister Dorothy here passed the
night of 9 Sept. 180-3 ; and on 10 Sept. 1842 the Queen
drove through the town, which has given birth to the
poet David Mallet (1700-65), the chemist Prof. Thos.
Thomson (1773-1852), and Prof. Jas. Gibson, D.D.
(1799-1871).
The old Drummond Arms, where Prince Charles
Edward, after reviewing his forces, held a stormy
council of war (3 Feb. 1746), was recently feued to the
Commercial Bank of Scotland, and premises for the
bank and a large hotel have been built. The Royal,
too, one of three other hotels, besides two temperance
ones, has been greatly enlarged ; but the chief hospice
<br tourists and invalids is Strathearn House, the large
hydropathic establishment, erected in 1867 at a cost of
£30,000, 1 mile NNE of the station. It stands 440 feet
above sea-level, on the southern slope of the sheltering
Knock, in grounds 70 acres in extent ; and is a dignified
Elizabethan structure, four stories high, and 345 feet
long, with a turreted square tower and 200 apartments,
of which the dining and drawing rooms are 84 feet
long, 30 ^vide, and 15 and 30 high. It has Tm-kish
and other baths in great variety ; and its water-sup-
j)]y, 20,000 gallons per diem, is brought from springs,
gathered in a reservoir an acre in extent, and 4 miles
distant, and by Prof. Brazier of Aberdeen was reported
to be one of the finest and purest waters he had ever
examined. At or near the town are a post office, with
money order, savings' bank, insurance, and telegraph
departments, branches of the Bank of Scotland and the
British Linen Co., Clydesdale, Commercial, Korth of
Scotland, and Union Banks, a local savings' bank, an
ugly to'ssTi-house (1850), containing a mechanics library,
a masonic lodge, a recreation ground (1880), gas-works,
a commodious station (improved 1873), a cemetery, a
bridge across the Earn (rebuilt 1867-68) three manufac-
tories of woollen shirtings, blankets, tweeds, and plaid-
ings, two chemical manure works, two tanneries, and
one distillery. There are two Saturday papers published
— the Liberal Stratlicarn Uerald (1856) and the Liberal-
Conservative Cr if ff Journal [Idibl). Tuesday is market-
day, and fairs are held on the first Tuesday of every
mon*h ; but the famous Michaelmas Tryst, where
30,000 black cattle would be sold by the Highlanders to
English drovers for 30,000 guineas and upwards, was
removed to Falkirk about 1770. MacKy, in his
Joanicy Throiujh Scotland (1723), has sketched its
humours with a vigorous hand ; and Robert Donn's
Gaelic poem describes the home-sickness that came over
him while counting of droves in its enclosures.
Nowhere is the great building acti\-ity of modem
Crieff displayed more markedly than in its schools and
churches. The ancient parish church of St Thomas was
demolished in 1787, when forty gold coins of Robert I.
were found in its Gothic walls. On its site arose the
plain East church, with an ill-designed bell-tower ; but
this, in turn, in 1881 gave place to a goodly Gothic
edifice in Strathearn Terrace, built at a cost of £4500,
and seating 1000 worshippers. The "West church, built
as a chapel of ease in 1838, and raised to quoad sacra
status in 1864, also contains 1000 sittings. In 1881
the Free church was rebuilt in Comrie Street, at a cost
of £4500, exclusive of site ; and, Scoto-Gothic in style,
has 860 sittings and a massive tower, whose .slated spire
CRIEFF
rises to 120 feet. The U.P. church (533 sittings) was
rebuilt in 1837 ; St FiUan's Roman Catholic church
(200 sittings) in 1871; and St Columba's Episcopal
church (600 sittings) in 1877, the last at a cost of £6000,
in the Early Decorated style, with a spire 130 feet high.
There are, moreover. Baptist and Independent chapels.
Thomas Morison, native of Muthill, and builder in
Edinburgh, d}-ing in 1826, left the residue of his
fortune to accummulate to the value of £20,000, with
which, in 1859, was founded Morison's Academy, a
Scottish Baronial structure, standing in gi-ounds 10 acres
in extent, just to tlie N of the town, whilst St Mar-
garet's College, at the E end of Crieff, was afterwards
purchased by the seven trustees for the rector's residence
and boarders. As remodelled in 1878, the Academy has
a rector, English, mathematical, and modern languages
masters, and a lady superintendent, and gives a liberal
education to 120 boys and girls of the upper and middle
classes. Taylor's Institution, under 6 managers, was
founded by William Taylor of Cornton, tallow chandler
in Crieff (d. 1841), for the children of the poor of the
parish, and in 1859 was enlarged by addition of a
female industrial school. It and the public school, with
respective accommodation for 252 and 450 children, had
(1880) an average attendance of 211 and 309, and giants
of £170, 9s. and £247, 4s.
Having adopted the General Police and Improvement
Act in 1864, Crieff is governed by a senior and a jimior
magistrate and 10 police commissioners. Its municipal
constituency numbered 560 in 1882, when the bm-gh
valuation'amounted to £20, 439, the revenue being £1098,
including* assessments. Pop. (1776) 1532, (1792) 2071,
(1835) 3835, (1851) 3824, (1S61) 3903, (1871) 4027
(1881) 4469, of whom 110 were in Muthill parish, and 3
in that of Monzievaird and Strowan.
The parish comprises two divisions, united by a strip
5 furlongs wide at the narrowest, and belonging — the
southern to Strathearn, the northern to Gleualmond.
The southern, containing the town, is bounded NE by
Monzie and FowUs-Wester, SE by Madderty and the
Innerpeftray section of ilonzie, S and SW by Muthill,
and W by 5lonzievaird-Strowan ; whilst the northern,
containing Corriemuchloch hamlet, is almost enclosed
by the main and outlying portions of !Monzie and
Fowlis-Wester. The utmost length of the whole is IO5
miles from SSE to NXW, viz. , from the Earn at Stra-
geath Ferry to the summit of Beinn na Gainimh ; the
utmost wi(ltn of the southern division is 3^ miles from
E to W, of the northern 7i miles from SE to XW ; and
the area of the entire parish is 20,546| acres, of which
162 are water, and 90| lie detached within Fowlis-
AVester. The Earn winds 4 J miles south-eastward,
roughly ti-acing all the iluthill boundary ; and its
tributary, Tueiiet Water, flows 2 miles southward along
the Monzievaird and Strowan border, which higher U]'
is traced by Barvick Burn. The Shaggie Burn,
another of the Tm'ret's affluents, has here a west-south-
westerly run of 1^ mUe, and it.'self receives Keltie
Burn, flowing 4^ miles south-south-eastward along the
boundary with Monzie. Lastly, the Almuxd takes a
winding east-south-easterly course of 10 miles in the
northeru division, during which it descends from 870 to
500 feet above sea-level. The surface, sinking at the
SE corner to less than 100 feet, thence rises to 911 feet
on the Knock of Crieff, 1196 on the Hill of Callander,
and 2498 on Stonefield Hill ; in the Glenalmond i)ortio!i
the chief elevations are Beinn na Gainimh (2367 feet),
Meall Reamhar (2186), and Dun ilor (1520). The rocks
are chiefly Old Red sandstone in the south, and clay-
slate in the N ; the soil near the town is a pretty ricli
loam, but elsewhere ranges from sandy or gravelly to
stiff, reddish, tilly clay. With the exception of some
560 acres under wood, the whole almost of the Strath-
earn division is under cultivation ; the Glenalmond
portion, on the other hand, is everywhere Highland in
character. Anti(iuities are the Roman camp of Fen-
Docii, Clach-xa-Ossian, a fort on Dun Mor, and a
cairn on tlie opj)osite hill. Ferx Thwer is the prin-
I cipal mansion ; and 8 proiirietors liold each an annual
' 307
CRIEFF JUNCTION
value of £500 and upwards, 11 of between flOO and
£500, 32 of from £50 to £100, and 60 of from £20 to
£50. Crietf is in tlie presbytery of Auchterarder and
sjTiod of Pertli and Stirling ; the living is worth £293.
Valuation (1868) £17,926, 13s. 2d., (1882) £30,680,
15s. Sd. Pop. (1801) 2876, (1831) 4786, (1861) 4490,
X1S71) 4598, (1881) 4852.— Orrf. Sur., sh. 47, 1869.
See S. Korner's I'ambles ronnd Crieff and Uxcursicnis
i7i(othe IIighlands{Edinh. 1858); Bean'tiesof Upper Strath-
earn (Crieff, 1854 ; 3d. ed. 1870) ; and Orieff, its
Traditions and Characters, with Anecdotes of Strathearn
(Edinh. 1S81).
Crieff Junction, a station in Blackford parish, Perth-
shire, at the deflection of the Crietf Junction railway
from the Caledonian, 2^ miles SSW of Auchterarder,
and 9 SSE of Criefl'.
Criffel, a barren though verdant granitic mountain-
group of SE Kirkcudbrightshire, commencing in New-
abbey parish near the Kith, and running south-westward
across Kirkgunzeon, Urr, and Colvend, down almost to
the shore of the Solway Firth. It culminates in conical,
peaked Knockendoch (1867 feet), 2^ miles S by W of
Newabbey village, and from this ' huge Criffel's hoary
top,' as Wordsworth calls it, commands in clear weather
a map-like \dew of the Solway's basin and the Cumber-
land mountains beyond, with far-away glimpses of
Arran, Ireland, and the Isle of Man. 'Drayton,' saj-s
Dorothy Wordsworth, 'has prettily described the con-
nection this neighbourhood has with Cumberland when
he makes Skiddaw say —
' " Scurf ell from the sky,
That Annandale doth crown, with a most amorous ej'e
Salutes me every day, or at my pride looks grim,
Oft threat'ning me with clouds, as I oft threat'ning him." '
According to a prophecy ascribed to Thomas the Rhymer,
' in the evil day coming safely shall nowhere be found
except atween CrifFel and tha sea.' — Ord. Sur., sh. 5,
1867.
Crimond (anc. Creichmont, ' clay hill '), a hamlet and a
coast parish of Buchan, NE Aberdeenshire. The hamlet,
Ij'ing 2J miles inland, is 3 miles ESE of Lonma}' station,
8| SE by S of Fraserburgh, and 9 NW of Peterhead,
under which it has a post office.
The parish, containing also the fishing hamlet of
Rattray, formerly a royal burgh, 2 miles to the ENE,
is bounded SW, NW, and N by Lonmay, NE and E by
the German Ocean, and SE by St Fergus in Banffshire
(detached). Its utmo.st length is 6§ miles from ENE to
WSW, viz. , from Rattray Head to a little beyond the
Loch of Kininmonth ; its width in an opposite direction
varies between 1| and 2| miles ; and its area is 6281^
acres, of which 243^ are water, and 148i foreshore.
The coast-line, 2§ miles in extent, includes the low,
rocky, shelving promontory of Rattray Head ; and else-
where presents a broad band of flat beach, backed by bent-
covered sand-hills. The interior rises abruptly from the
shore to 106 feet above sea-level near the coastguard
station, and, thence descending gradually towards the
centre, ascends again gently southward and south-west-
ward to 136 feet near South Mosstown, 228 at Upper
Ridinghill, and 284 at Lochhills. Loch STR.\TnBEG,
2§ miles long, and from 2 to 4i furlongs broad, lies on
the northern border, and receives burns and runnels
draining the interior ; the Loch of Kininmonth (3x1
furl.), in the SW, has been recently drained. Streams
of pure water are scarce, most being tainted with iron.
Dark blue granite prevails in the E ; red granite, gene-
rally in a cruml)ling condition, is found in the W ; trap
rock is also abundant ; and limestone was at one time
quarried. The soil near the coast is light and sandy ;
towards the centre is generally of a black loamy nature,
resting on a clay bottom ; and elsewhere is cold and
wet. Nearly five-sevenths of the entire area are arable,
less than one-eighth is pastoral, and plantations cover
a considerable extent. Crimond estate belonged once
to the Earls of Errol, whilst Logic was the seat of
a branch of the Gordons ; but both belong now to
Ethel, daugliter (b. 1869) of the late Sir Alex. Banner-
man of CiuMONMOGATE. Logie was the scene of the
308
CRINAN
fine old Jacobite song, Logic o' Biichan, believed
to have been written about 1736 b}' George Halket,
schoolmaster at Rathen ; and at a spot called the Battle
Fauld, tradition points out the grave of the hero of the
famous ballad, Sir James the Rose. A circular mound,
called Castle Hill, at the E end of Loch Strathbeg, was
the site of a castle of Com}-n, Earl of Buchan ; and near
it are the First Pointed ruins of St ]\Iary's chapel of
Rattray ; whilst on the farm of Netherton of Logie is
an ancient Caledonian circle in a high state of preserva-
tion. John Farquhar (1751-1826), known as 'the rich
Farquhar of Fonthill,' was a native. Rattray House is
the principal mansion ; and 3 proprietors hold each an
annual value of more, 5 of less, than £100. Giving off
a south-western portion to the quoad sacra parish of
Kininmonth, Crimond is in the presbytery of Deer and
synod of Aberdeen ; the living is worth £296. The
present church, at the hamlet, was built in 1812, and,
containing 500 sittings, has a steeple and clock ; its
ruined predecessor, near the manse, f mile N by W, is
said to have been a prebend of St Machar's at Aberdeen
in 1262, and bears date 1576. A public school, with
accommodation for 142 children, had (1880) an average
attendance of 98, and a grant of £84, 2s. Valuation
(1881) £5997, 12s. 7d. Pop. of civil parish (1801) 862,
(1821) 900, (1841) 767, (1851) 893, (1871) 887, (1881)
827 ; of ecclesiastical parish (1881)815. — Ord. Sur., shs.
97, 87, 1876.
Crimonmogate, a mansion in Lonmay parish, Aber-
deenshire, 1^ mile W of Lonmay station. Grecian in
style, with a hexastyle granite portico, it was built
towards the middle of the present century at a cost of
£10,000 ; in its finely-planted grounds is a granite
obelisk to the memory of Patrick Milne, who bequeathed
the estate to the Banuermans. The present owner. Sir
George Bannerman of Elsick, tenth Bart, since 1682 (b.
1829 ; sue. 1877), holds 7660 acres in the shire, valued
at £7745 per annum.
Crinan, a village, a sea-loch, and a canal, in Argyll-
shire. The village, called sometimes Port-Crinan, stands
in Kilmartin parish, on the northern side of the sea-
loch, not far from the W end of the canal, 5^ miles
WNW of Lochgilphead, under which it has a post
office ; at it are an excellent inn, a wharf and slip, and
a lighthouse. The steamers, in the line of communica-
tion between Glasgow and Oban, call at it ; and here
the Queen and Prince Albert spent the night of 18 Aug.
1843 on board the royal yacht. — The sea-loch, extend-
ing 4^ miles north-westward, opens into the upper part
of the Sound of Jura, adjacent to the mouth of Loch
Craignish ; and leads the way, round Craignish Point,
to the passage, between Scarba and Luing islands, to
the Firth of Lorn. Its head is narrow and tame ; but
most of its north-eastern side is rich in interesting
features ; and its mouth, 3 miles wide, between Craig-
nish and Ardmore Points, with a group of islets in its
own waters, and with the northern extremity of Jura in
front, is strikingly ])icturesque. — The canal goes from
the middle of the AV side of Loch Gilp, 9 miles west-
north-westward, to Loch Crinan, in the vicinity of
Crinan village, and enables vessels of 200 tons burden,
from the upper Firth of Clyde to the Firth of Lorn, to
avoid the difficult and circuitous passage of 70 miles
round the Mull of Kintyre. Projectecl by Sir John
Rennie in 1793, at an estimated cost of £63,678, it was
opened in 1801 at an actual cost of £141,810 ; and even
then other loans had to be obtained, which by 1814
had burdened the Company with a debt of £67,810. It
is cut chiefly through chlorite schist, traversed by trap
dykes, and showing indications of great geognostic dis-
turbance ; and has eight locks between Loch Gilp and
the summit-level (59 feet), and seven between that and
Loch Crinan, thirteen of these locks being each 96 feet
long and 24 wide, and the other two 108 feet long and
27 wide. The average depth of water is only 10 feet,
the canal being fed by reservoirs on the hill above, whose
bursting (2d Feb. 1859) washed away part of the banks
and choked the channel for upwards of a mile with dihris.
The repairs took a sum of £12,000, which was disbursed
CRINGLETIE
by Government. The canal is used chiefly by small
coasting and fishing vessels, by goods steamboats plying
between the Clyde and Inverness, and by an elegant,
roomy, and well-appointed steamboat conveying passen-
gers between large steamers at Ardrishaig and Port-
Crinan. Since 1818 the canal has been managed by the
Commissioners of the Caledonian Canal. Its revenues
arising from the tolls have, on the average, been barely
sufficient to cover the current expenses of maintenance
and repair. The receipts and expenditure, in most
years, have been nearly equal, in the year ending 30th
April 1S64 being £3605 and £4545; in 1869, £4316 and
£4394 ; in 1873, £4614 and £4727 ; in 1876, £5057 and
£4341 ; in 1878, £5966 and £4381 ; and in 1879, £5730
and £4929, whilst the passages in the last-named year
numbered 2668.
Cringletie, an estate, with a mansion, in Eddlestone
parish, Peeblesshire, 3 miles KNW of Peebles. The
mansion, standing on a finely-wooded plateau, to the
right of Eddleston Water, was rebuilt in 1863 in the old
Scotch manor-house style, and contains some fine family
portraits by Gainsborough, Raebum, and othere. For
more than two centuries it has been the seat of a branch
of the Murraj's, which has produced a gallant soldier
and an eminent judge — Col. Alex. Murray (d. 1762),
and Jas. Wolfe Murray, Lord Cringletie (1760-1836).
The son and namesake of the latter (b. 1814) holds 5108
acres in the shire, valued at £2647 per annum.
Crocach. See Cbokach.
Crocketford, a village on the mutual border of Urr
and Kirkpatrick-Durham parishes, Kirkcudbrightshire,
near Achenreoch and Milton Lochs, 9 miles "WSW of
Dumfries. Founded by the Buchauites in 1787, it has
a post office under Dumfries, and a public school ; near
it is Crocketford House.
Croe, a clear-flowing river of Glenshiel parish, SW
Koss-shire, formed by two head-streams at an altitude
of 180 feet above sea-level, and nmning 5^ miles west-
north-westward — latterly along the Kintail border — to
the head of Loch Duich. It abounds in sabnon and sea-
trout, but is preserved. — Orel. Sur., sh. 72, 1880,
Croftanrigh. See Dalrt and Edixbuegh.
Crofthead. See Neilstox.
Crofthead, a large mineral village in Whitburn parish,
SW Linlithgowshire, 3| miles S by W of Whitbm-n
village, and 1^ mile EXE of Crofthead station on the
Morningside section of the North British, this being 6|
miles SSW of Bathgate. It has itself a Free church
and a public school ; and it practically forms one with
Fauldhouse and Greenbum villages, lying 1 mile WSW
and I mile SW. See FArLDHOusE.
Croftinloan, an estate, with a mansion, in Logierait
palish, Perthshire, near the left bank of the Tay, 2
miles SE of Pitlochrie. Its owner. Admiral Jack Henry
Murray (b. ISIO), holds 110 acres in the shire, valued
at £225 per annum.
Croftmartaig, a hamlet adjoining the village of
ACHAKX.
Croftness, a hamlet, with a Christian Knowledge
Society's female school, in Glenlivet quoad sacra parish,
Banflshire.
Crofts. See Ceossmichael.
Crogo, a hamlet in the SE of Balmaclellan parish,
KE Kirkcudbrightshire, 1^ mile XXW of Corsock.
Croick, a quooxl sacra parish in Kincardine parish,
Ross-shire, whose church (1827), manse, and school stand
in the Black Water's sequestered valley, 10 miles W of
its station and post-town, Ardgay. It is in the presby-
tery of Tain and sjTiod of Ross ; the minister's stipend
is £120, with a manse and a glebe worth each £5 a year.
— Orel. Sur., sh. 102, 1881. See Kincardine.
Crokach, a loch in Assynt parish, Sutherland, 3 miles
X of Lochinver. Lying 380 feet above sea-level, it is
1| mile long, and from ^ furlong to 3 furlongs wide ; is
studded with thirteen islets ; and contains fine, well-
shaped trout.
Crokach, a loch in the SW corner of Reay parish,
Sutherland, 5^ miles W by X of Forsinard station.
Lying 950 feet above sea-level, it contains two islets,
CROMARTY
and presents an irregular outline, with utmost length
and breadth of 5^ and 4 furlongs.
Crolin. See Croulix.
Crom, a loch on the mutual border of Fodderty and
Kincardine parish, Ross-shire, 7J miles NW of the head
of Loch Glass. Lying 1720 feet above sea-level, it has
an utmost length and breadth of f mile and 3^ lurlongs^
and communicates with the river Carron.
Cromack. See Ceammag.
Cromal or Cromwell's Mount, a circular elevation in
Ardersier parish, XE Inverness-shire, on the ridge of hill
behind Campbeltown. It rises about 20 feet above the
adjacent level of the ridge ; is crowned by an ancient
Caledonian fort, with a rampart 5 feet high and 360
feet in circumference ; and commands a very extensive
view, including parts of seven or eight counties.
Cromar, a sub-district of Aberdeenshire, on the X side
of the middle reach of the river Dee. It comprehends
the parishes of Coull, Tarland^ and Logie-Coldstone, and
a small part of Glenmuick.
Cromarty, the county town and a parish of Cromarty-
shire. A seaport and parliamentary burgh, the town
lies low on the southern shore of the Cromarty Firth, 2
miles W by S of its Sutor-guarded entrance, 4J miles E
by S of Invergordon by water and 8 by the shore-road
and Invergordon ferry, llf SSE of Tain, 9 XXE of
Foitrose, and 19^ XXE of Inverness. For more than
three centuries the sea has been steadily gaining on its
site, so that where the old biirgh stood is covered deep
by each returning tide ; but at a remote period the sea
came higher up than now, and its ancient margin is
marked by an eminence that, rising abruptly from the
level to a height of 100 feet, next forms a tableland, and
thence sweeps gently upward to the Southern Sutor.
On the said eminence, right above the town, stood the
old castle of the Urquharts, a massy, time-worn building,
battlemented, stone-roofed, and sis stories high. It was
rased to the ground in 1772, and its place is occupied by
Cromarty House ; hard by, a column, 40 feet high, is sur-
mounted by Handyside Ritchie's life-size statue (1859) of
Cromarty's most celebrated son, the stonemason geolo-
gist and author, Hugh Miller (1802-56). Even before
his day the antique gabled houses of 'Old Cromarty'
had mostly disappeared ; but their successors have in
turn grown old, and the whole place presents an appear-
ance of picturesque decay and desolation, 30 out of its
287 domiciles standing imtenanted in 1881. The Bay
of Cromarty forms one of the finest natural harbours in
the world, and during winter storms ship after ship
comes pressing into it for shelter. Thither they are
guided by a lighthouse, whose fixed red light is visible
for 13 nautical miles, and which was built on the Point
in 1846 at a cost of £3203. From a commodious quay,
constructed in 1785, and repaired and extended in 1880,
goods valued at £25,000 were shipped to London in 1807.
But by the railwa}' the commerce of Easter Ross has
been diverted to Invergordon ; and fishing and fish-
curing are now the only industries of Cromarty. It still
is head of the fishery district between Findhorn and
Helmsdale Loch, in which during 1880 there were cured
2223 barrels of white herrings, besides 1504 cod, Ung,
and hake, — taken by 298 boats of 2451 tons ; the persons
employed being 904 fishermen and boys, 8 fish-curers,
12 coopers, and 831 others, and the total value of boats,
nets, and lines being estimated at £30,505. A brewery,
a hemp and cloth factory, and one or two timber-yards
have all been closed ; two fairs have become extinct ;
but a weekly market is held, in name at least, on Tues-
day. There are three churches — the 16th century
parish church, described as ' a true Presbyterian edi-
fice ;' an Established Gaelic church, built about 1785 ;
and a Free church : and Cromarty has besides a post
office, with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph
departments, branches of the Caledonian and Commer-
cial Banks, 5 insurance agencies, 3 hotels, a neat town-
hall (1782) with cupola and clock, a masonic lodge,
and 3 benevolent societies. A royal burgh once, it was
reduced in 1672 to the rank of a burgh of barony, but
by the Reform Act of 1833 unites with the other five
309
CROMARTY
Wick burghs in returning a member to Parliament ; and,
having adopted the General Police and Improvement
Act of 1862, is governed by a provost, 9 councillors, and
9 police commissioners. Its parliamentary and muni-
cipal constituency numbered 83 in 1882, when its valua-
tion amounted to £1922. Pop. (ISOl) 1993, (1831)
2215, (1851) 1988, (1861) 1491, (1871) 1476, (1881)
1352,
Tlie parish, forming the north-eastern extremity of
the Black Isle peninsula, is bounded N by Cromarty
Firth, SE by the Moray Firth and Rosemarkie, SW by
Rosemarkie, and W by Resolis. Its utmost length, from
NE to SW, is 7i miles ; its width, from NW to SE, varies
between 1 J and 2h miles ; and its area is 7060 acres.
The coast-line, 9h miles long, presents for 3 miles to the
Moray Firth a huge brown wall of beetling precipice,
rising to 225 feet near JI'Farquhar's Bed, and 463 at
the Southern Sutor, whose highest knoll is termed the
Gallow Hill, from its having been the place of execution.
The northern shore, on the other hand, all along Cro-
marty Bay, is fringed by the level strip, already noticed,
behind which the green bank slopes ujiwards to a height
in places of 100 feet ; further inland the surface ascends
to the broad AuDMEANACii ridge, attaining 241 feet near
Newton, 477 near Bannan, and 548 near Glenurquhart.
The Sutor, or ' Hill of Cromarty,' to quote Hugh J\Iiller,
' is one of a chain belonging to the great Ben Nevis line
of elevation ; and, though it occurs in an Old Red sand-
stone district, is itself a huge primary mass, upheaved
of old from the abyss, and composed chiefly of gi'anitic
gneiss and a red splintery hornstone. It contains also
numerous veins and beds of hornblend rock and chlorite
schist, and of a peculiar-looking granite, of which the
quartz is white as milk, and the felspar red as blood.'
In the cliff are two lines of caves — one hollowed by the
waves long centmies ago, and another that the surf is
still busy scooping out. I\Iany of the former — as the
Doocot or Pigeon Caves, and the inferior though better-
kno^\'n Droi)ping Cave — 'are lined with stalactites, de-
posited bj' springs that, filtering through the cracks and
fissures of the gneiss, find time enough in their passage
to acquire what is known as a petrifying, though, in
reality, only an incrusting quality.' Garnets are plenti-
ful along the shore, where, too, are the Clach Malloch
or Cursed Stone, an enormous granitic boulder, and five
vast natural archways in the rocks. But for full exposi-
tion of Cromarty's sermons in stones the reader himself
must turn to Hugh Miller's Scenes and Lcjends of the
North of Scotland (1835) and My Schools and School-
masters (1854), which further record its memories of
JIacbeth, Thane of Cromarty ; of Wallace's fabled defeat
of the English, 4 J miles SW of the town ; of the Chap-
lain's Lair; of the Black Years (1694-1701); of the
Meal ilob (1741), etc. Towards the close of the 13th
century one William Urquhart of Cromarty was heritable
sherifi" of the county ; among his descendants was the
ail-but admirable Sir Thomas Urquhart (1613-60), trans-
lator of Rabelais, and author of 128i folio quires of MS.,
wherein he discussed as many or more original inventions.
That wily statesman, Sir Geo. Mackenzie of Tarlaat (1630-
1714), was created Viscount Tarbat in 1685 and Earl of
Cromartie in 1703. His second son, Kenneth, who
became a baronet in 1704, obtained the extensive estate
of Cromarty ; but his eldest son. Sir Geo. Mackenzie,
member for the shire, was driven by bankruptcy to sell
it in 1741 to William Urquhart of ItlELDHUM. Five
years later the earldom was attainted in the person of
George, third Earl, for his part in the '45 ; nor was it
revived till 1861, and then in favour of his fourth
descendant, Anne Hay-Mackenzie, Duchess of Suther-
land, with limitation to her second son, Francis, Viscount
Tarbat. There are now in the ]>arish 6 lesser land-
owners, 1 holding an annual value of between £100 and
£500, 2 of from £50 to £100, and 3 of from £20 to £50 ;
but much the largest proprietor is Col. Geo. Wm. Holmes
Ross of Cromarty House (b. 1825 ; sue. 1852). His
estate extends over 7946 acres, of which 4112 arc arable,
2625 in pasture, and 1209 under wood ; its rental has
been raised, by reclamations and other inn)rovenients,
310
CROMARTYSHIRE
from £5144 in 1850 to £6128. The soil is principally
loam, but clay abounds in some parts, and moorish soil
in others ; and the rent of an acre ranges from 10s. to 60s.
The moorish land reclaimed at a cost of £20 per acre
was previously under wood ; on the other hand, all the
available waste has been planted (pp. 107-111 of Trans.
Uighl. and Ag. Soc, 1877). Cromarty is in the pres-
bytery of Chanonry and synod of Ross ; the living is
worth £399. Prior to the Reformation there were six
chapels within its bounds, three of which were dedicated
to SS. Duthac, Bonnet, and Regidus ; but scarcely a
vestige remains of any one of them ; whilst a Red or
Trinitarian priory, founded about 1271, has vanished
utterly. In 1875-76 two new board schools were built
at a cost of £6000 in the town and at Peddicston, 4 J
miles to the SW. With respective accommodation for
300 and 120 children, these had (1880) an average
attendance of 164 and 40, and grants of £134, 8s. 6d.
and £19, 5s. Pop. (1801) 2413, (1831) 2901, (1841)
2662, (1861) 2300, (1871) 2180, (1881) 2009.— On/. Sur.,
sh. 94, 1878. See P. Payne's Life of Hugh Miller (2
vols., 1871), andWm. Fraser's Earls of Cromartie : their
Kindred, Country, and Correspondence (2 vols., 1876).
Cromarty Bay, a southward expansion of Cromarty
Firth, 4§ miles wide across a chord drawn west-by-
soiithward from Cromarty to Newhall Point, the distance
from that chord to the inmost recess of the shore being
1^ mile. Its sandy south-western corner, ofi'ering at
low-water a broad expanse of foreshore, is known as
Udale Bay.
Cromarty Firth, the estuary of the river Con.vn, in
Ross and Cromarty, commencing between Marj'burgh
and Dingwall, 5| miles N of the head of Beauly Fii'th,
and thence extending 19| north-eastward and eastward
to the Moray Firth, where its entrance, 7 furlongs broad,
is guarded by the North and South Sutors, 400 and
463 feet high. Its width is If mile near Kinnaird
House, 1§ at Kiltearn manse, 1 at Balconie Point,
1 J at Alness Bay, f at Invergordon, and 7| miles from
the head of Udale Bay north-eastward to the head of
Nigg Bay ; but that of its channel nowhere exceeds 9
furlongs above Invergordon. On its right lie the parishes
of Urquhart, Resolis, and Cromarty, on its left of Ding-
wall, Kiltearn, Alness, Rosskeen, Kilmuir Easter, Logie
Easter, and Nigg ; and it receives the Peft'ery, Ault-
grande, and Alness rivers on its left side, which is closely
followed by the Highland railway. Again we must turn
to Hugh Miller for a description of the broad and deep
lowest reach, as viewed from the Moray Fii'th in a clear
morning of summer : — ' The foreground is occupied by
a gigantic wall of bro^^Ti precipices, beetling for many
miles over the edge of the firth, and crested by dark
thickets of furze and pine. A multitude of shapeless
crags lie scattered along the base, and we hear the noise
of the waves breaking against them, and see the reflected
gleam of the foam flashing at intervals into the darker
recesses of the rock. The waters find entrance, as de-
scribed by liuclianan, through a natural postern scooped
out of the jniildle of this immense wall. The huge pro-
jections of clilf on either hand, with their alternate
masses of light and shadow, remind us of the out-jets
and buttresses of an ancient fortress ; and the two Sutors,
towering over the opening, of turrets built to command
a gateway. The scenery within is of a softer and more
gentle character. We see hanging woods, sloping pro-
montories, a little quiet town, and an undulating line
of blue mountains, swelling as they retire into a bolder
outline and a loftier altitude, until they terminate, some
20 miles away, in snow-streaked, cloud-cajiped Ben
Wyvis.'— On?. Sur., shs. 83, 93, 94, 1881-78.
Cromartyshire, a county, interlaced with Ross-shire,
in the N of Scotland. It comprehends an ancient
sheriirdom, hereditary in the family of Unpihart ol' Cro-
marty, and detached districts annexed in tlie latter part
of tlic 17th century, at the instance of Viscount Tarbat,
afterwards Earl of Cromarty. The ancient sherifl'dom,
or olil shire, comprises Cromarty parish, the greater
part of Resolis parish, and an undefined portion of the
Mullbuy ; and is usually stated to have a length of about
i®RAT
T^^TiTBARTHOLOMtW EDINBURGH
i f F [ rllj J ji^x^AULY; CROMAilTrAlTiD MORAY
J
CROMBIE
16 miles, a breadth of about 6h or 7 miles, and an area
of about 39,690 acres. The detached districts are a
district surrounding Tarbat House, on the NE seaboard
of Cromarty Firth ; a district commencing on the Dor-
noch Firth a little E of Tain, and extending eastward
to the Moray Firth in the vicinity of Geanis ; two small
tracts in Kincardine pai-ish, adjacent to the river Carron ;
a district extending west-north-westward from the vici-
nit}"^ of Dingwall, and including Castle-Leod and part of
Ben Wyvis ; two tracts on the N of respectively Loch
Fannich and Loch Nid ; a tract along the S side of the
middle and upper parts of Little Loch Broom ; the large
district of Coigach, lying between Loch Broom and
Sutherland, and extending to Loch Enard and Rhu More
promontory ; and the Summer islands, lying in the N
side of the mouth of Loch Broom. These eight are esti-
mated to measure aggi-egately about 344 square miles,
or 220,586 acres. The ancient valuation of the property
was £12,896 ; but the modern valuation of the property,
and all the other modern statistics, are merged into
those of Ross-shire. Tlie county has a court of lieuten-
ancy of its own ; but it has no sheriff or even sheriff-
substitute of its own ; and, as to its fiscal affairs, its
parliamentary representation, and even its parochial
distribution and its territorial character, \vith tlie ex-
ception only of Cromarty parish, it is always practically
treated as simplj'- a component part of Ross-shire.
Crombie, a small village and an ancient parish in the
SW extremity of Fife. The village stands 1^ mile S of
Cairneyhill, and 3^ miles SW of Dunfermline. The
parish is now incorporated with Torryburn, comprising
that part of it to the S of the Burn of Torry, and also
certain detached lands, which, distant 7^ miles, are
annexed quoad sacra to Saline. Its church stood on a
commanding site, overlooking the Firth of Forth, and
is now represented by some ruins.
Crombie, a burn in Kingoldrum parish, Forfarshire.
It rises 2 miles JT of Kingoldrum village ; runs past that
village ; describes a semicircle toward the E ; proceeds
If mile west-south-westward; and falls into the river
Jlelgum.
Crombie, a burn in the S of Inveraven parish, Banff-
shire, rising close to the Aberdeenshire border, at 2400
feet above sea-level, and running 7:^ miles north-north-
westward to Livet "Water at Tombae.
Crombie, a burn and an old castle in Marnoch parish,
Banffshire. The burn, rising near the Ordiquhill border,
runs 3 miles southward to the Deveron at Marnoch
manse ; and the castle stands on the right side of the
bm-u, IJ mile N of the said manse. Supposed to be
very ancient, and looking to have been a place of some
strength, it now consists of three stories, but formerly was
much higher ; and belongs now to the Earl of Seafield.
Crombie Point, a small headland, a small harbour,
and a hamlet in Torryburn parish, SW Fife, on the
Firth of Forth, 1^ mile SE of Torryburn village, and
If W by N of Charlestown. The harbour is a calling
place of the Granton and Stirling steamers.
Cromdale, a parish, chiefly in Elginshire, but partly
also in Inverness-shire. In its Elginshire portion, on the
Spey's right bank, is Cromdale station on the Strathspey
section of the Great Iv'orth of Scotland, 3 miles NE of
Granto\vn station and 21 SW of Craigellachie Junction ;
near it are a post office under Grantown, a new public
school (1877), the parish church (1809; 900 sittings),
and a viire suspension footbridge (1881) over the Spey,
195 feet in span.
The parish, till 1870 mainly in Inverness-shire, con-
tains also the town of Ghantown ; the station of Dava,
at the XW border, Sh miles NNW of Grantown ; the
station of Advie ; and the station of Broomhill, 3|
miles SSW of Grantown. It is bounded XW by Eilin-
killie; NE by Knockando; E by Inveraven, and SE by
Kirkmichael, in Banffshire ; S by Abernethy, and SW
by Duthil, in Inverness-shire ; and W by Ardclach, in
Nairnshire. Its utmost length, from NE to SW, is 16
miles ; its utmost breadth, from N W to SE, is llg miles ;
and its area is 64,253 acres, of which 899;^ are water. The
Spey winds 20^^- miles north-eastward along the border
CROOK
and through the interior, descending in this course from
about 680 to 480 feet above .sea-level ; and the Divie
and Dorbock, feeders of the Findhorn, rise in the NW
corner of the parish, the Dorbock issuing from Lochin'-
DORB, which, 2^ miles long and from IJ to 5 furlongs
broad, lies at an altitude of 769 feet on the Edinkillie
boundary. To the S of it lie Loch an t-Sithein (2f x 1
furl.), Lochan Dubh (1 x 4 furl. ), and Loch Ruigh a'
Bhuair (2x1 furl.). Chief elevations to the left or W
of the Spey, from NE to SW, are Gallow Hill (1210
feet), Geal Charn (1487), Carn na h-Eige (1673), Larig
Hill (1783), Creag a' Bharrain (1324), Cam an Loiti
(1798), Carn na Doire (1294), Carn Bad na Caorach
(1557), Craig Tiribog (1586), and Beinn Mhor (1545);
whilst to the right, on the Banffshire and Inverness-
shire border, rise Tom a Chait (1646 feet), Creag an
Tarmachain (2121), Carn Eachie (2329), and Tom Biath
(1163), tliese latter belonging to the heathy Cromdale
Hills. Granite is a predominant rock ; and limestone
of prime quality abounds in places, and has been largely
worked for both building and manure. The soil of the
haughs along the Spey is very fertile ; that of the other
arable lands is generally thin and dry. Barely a tenth
of the entire area is under the plough, and woods and
plantations cover at least as much, the country round
Granto\vn, and indeed the whole strath of the Spey,
being finely adorned with trees. On May 1, 1690, the
war in Scotland between James VII. and William of
Orange was virtually ended by the affair of the Haughs
of Cromdale, when, at a spot 2h miles E by S of Crom-
dale station, the dragoons of Sir Thomas Livingstone
surprised Buchan's sleeping Highlanders, 800 in number,
slaying more than 300, and taking 100 prisoners.
The ruined castle of Muckerach is separately noticed, as
like^ase is Castle-Grant, whose owner, Ian Charles Grant-
Ogilvie, eighth Earl of Seafield (b. 1851 ; sue. 1881),
is almost the sole proprietor. In the presbytery of
Abernethy and synod of Moray, Cromdale comprises the
ancient parishes of Inverallan and Advie, and is now
divided into the quoad sacra parishes of Inverallan and
Cromdale, the latter being worth £298, with manse and
glebe. Besides two schools in Grantown, four public
schools — Achanarrow, Ad\ae, Cromdale, and Dava —
with respective accommodation for 70 90, 100, and 50
children, had (1880) an average attendance of 33, 34,
55, and 29, and grants of £40, 2s., £26, lis., £35, 16s.,
and £36, 13s. 6d. Valuation (1881) £13,554, 2s., of
which £1627, 18s. was in the Inverness-shire section.
Pop. (1801)2187, (1831) 3234, (1861) 3943, (1871) 3817,
(1881) 3642, of whom 1166 were in Cromdale quoad sacra
parish. — Ord. Sur., shs. 74, 75, 84, 85, 1876-77.
Cromlix, a barony in Dunblane parish, Perthshire,
around Dunblane town. Cromlix Cottage, 4 miles N
of Dunblane, is a seat of the Hon. Arthur Hay Drum-
mond, the late Earl of KinnouU's third son (b. 1833 ;
sue. 1866), who owns 7465 acres in the shire, valued at
£4240 per annum. The mineral wells of Cromlix are
noticed in connection with Duxblaxe Hydropathic
Establishment.
Cromore. See Eeisoet, Loch.
Cromwell Park, a village, with bleach-works, in Red-
gorton parish, Perthshire, on the left bank of the
Almond, 1^^ mile NW of Almondbank.
Cromwell's Fort. See Ayr and Inverness.
Cromwell's Mount. See Broxmouth.
Crona, two small flat islets of Assynt parish, Suther-
land, 5 furlongs SW of Oldany island.
Cronberry, a village of recent origin in Auchinleck
parish, Ayrshire, 2 miles NE by N of Lugar. It owes
its origin to iron-works of the Eglinton Iron Co., and
has a school in connection therewith. Pop. (1871) 997,
(18S1) 799.
Crook or Creuch, a summit (1446 feet) on the western
border of Kilmalcolm parish, Renfrewshire, f mile from
the A3'rshire border, and 5 miles S by W of Greenock.
Crook, a place on the N border of St Ninians ii;irish,
Stirlingshire, on tiie Haimock rivulet, 1^ mile ESE of
Stirling. Miss Elizabeth Hamilton (1758-1816) resided
at it whilst writing her Cottagers of Glenburnie.
311
CBOOK
Crook, an inn on the mutual liorder of Tweedsmuir
and Dmiunielzier parishes, S Peeblesshire, standing, 746
feet above sea-level, near the left bank of the Tweed, 1 J
mile NNE of Tweedsmuir church and 12 miles SSE of
Biggar, under which it lias a post oflice. A well-known
hostelry in the old coaching days, it now is only a resort
of anglers for the head-waters of the Tweed. Nether
Oliver Dod (1673 feet) culminates f mile to the WSW.
Crook, Forfarshire. See CuuicK.
Crookedholm, a village in Kilmarnock parish, Ayr-
shire, on the right bank of the Irvine, li mile ESE of
Kilmarnock town, and f mile N of Hurlford Junction.
At it are a public school and a worsted siiinning-mill,
in connection with carpet factories in Kilmarnock. Pop.
(1S61) 6-20, (1S71) 770, (ISSl) 657.
Crook of Alves, a hamlet in Alves parish, Elginshire,
8i furlongs N of Alves station.
Crook of Devon, a small old village in the Kinross-
Bhire section of Fossoway parish, on the left bank of the
Devon, at its sharp westward bend or crook, witli a
station on the Devon Valley section of the North British,
14 mile ENE of Rumbling- Bridge, and 6 miles WSW of
Kinross. It is a burgh of baronJ^
Crookston, an estate, with a ruined castle, on the E
border of Abbey parish, Renfrewshire. The estate be-
longed in the 12th century to Robert de Croc, a gentle-
man of Norman ancestry, and passing by marriage in
the 13th to the illustrious family of Stewart, was then
united to the estates of Darnley, Neilston, Inchinnan,
and Tarbolton. It was held by Henry, Lord Darnley
(1546-67), who became the husband of Queen Mary ;
and in 1572 was granted to his younger brother Charles
Stewart, fifth Earl of Lennox. Afterwards it passed
through many hands to the Duke of Montrose, and
was purchased from the second Duke in 1757 by Sir
John Maxwell of PoUok. The castle stands on the
summit of a wooded slope, overhanging the left bank of
Levern Water, 3 furlongs above its influx to the White
Cart, and 3J miles ESE of Paisley. Once a massive
edifice, with centre, two lofty towers, and battlemented
wings, surrounded by a rampart and a moat, it now
consists of only one shattered tower, 50 feet high. John
Wilson, Tannahill, Motherwell, Burns, and many anony-
mous poets have celebrated Crookston in verse ; and
most persons, though on little better authority than
loose tradition, believe that it, not Wemyss, was the
scene of Lord Darnley's betrothal to Queen Mary in
1565, and the place where they spent the days im-
Diediatel}- after their marriage. A stately j'ew, known
as 'the Crookston Tree,' standing a little to the E, and
popularly regarded as having been a favourite haunt of
the royal lovers, became eventually blasted and leafless,
less from natural decay than in consequence of being
hacked and hewn by relic-hunters for pieces to be con-
verted into snuff-boxes and small ornamental ai'ticles,
till it was eventually rooted up by Sir John Maxwell in
1817. Common tradition, too, asserts that Queen Mary
from Crookston Castle viewed the battle of Langside, —
a tradition adopted by Wilson in his poem of the Clyde,
and by Sir Walter Scott, both in his novel of The Abbot
and in his History of Scotland; but the castle is 3A
miles W by N of the battlefield, is completely hid from
it by intervening heights, and, moreover, was in the
rear, not of the Queen's army, but of the enemy. — Ord.
Siir. , sh. 30, 1866. See David Semple's Tree of Crocston :
being a Refutation of the Fables of the Courtshi}) of Queen
Marie and Lord Darnley under the Yew Tree (Paisley,
1876).
Crookston, an estate in Borthwick and Stow parishes,
Edinburghshire. Its mansion, in the NE of Stow,
stands on the left bank of flala Water, If,' mile N of
Fountainhall station, and is the seat of John Borthwick,
Esq. (b. 1825; sue. 1846), who holds 9723 acres in
Edinburgh and Berwick shires, valued at £5851 per
annum. See Borthwick.
Croot, a loch (12 x jf furl.) in Kirkmichael parish,
Ayrshire, near Ijarnsheau Loch, and 3J miles NE of
Kirkmichael village.
Crosbol. See Cuaspul.
312
CROSSGATES
Crosby. See Tkoon and Duxdonald.
Cross. See Luce, Water of.
Cross. See Bakvas, Lewis.
Crossall, a sTnall eminence in Dalmeny parish, Lin-
lithgowshire, If mile ESE of Queensferry. It is sur-
mounted by remains of an ancient stone cross, and, in
pre-Reformation times, was a station of devotees on
pilgrimage to Dunfermline.
Cross and Bumess, a united parish in the N of
Orkney, comprising the south-western and north-
western limbs of Sunday island, and also, in its quoad
civilia estate, the island of North Ronaldsha3\ It
contains a post office of the name of Sanday, with money
order and saviags' bank departments, under Kirkwall ;
and, bordered on the E for 1^ mile by Lady parish, is
on all other sides surrounded by the sea. Cross, which
forms the south-western section, terminates in a dismal
moor of 200 acres, separating it from Bukness. Well
sheltered by Eday from westerly winds, it presents a
diversified surface, which rises at two points to more
than 300 feet above sea-level, and breaks down, at one
of its heights, in a coast precipice perforated by curious
caverns ; a considerable lake is occasionally visited by
flocks of wild swans. Burness, separated on the E from
the greater part of Lady parish by Otterswick Bay, has
flat shores and a verdant fertile surface. The rocks are
sandstone, sandstone flag, and a little limestone. The
neiglibouring sea-waters produce enormous quantities of
shell-fish. This parish is in the presbytery of North
Isles and s)mod of Orkney ; the living is worth £245.
There are two parish churches. Cross, with 248 sittings,
and Burness with 262. In May 1880, in making ex-
cavations for the foundations of an addition to the
manse, it was discovered that the old building, lately
demolished, had been standing on the ruins of an ancient
broch. For schools and population see Sanday.
Crossbasket, an estate, with a mansion, in the NE
corner of East Kilbride parish, Lanarkshire, f mile W
by S of High Blantyre station.
Crossbost, a hamlet in Lochs parish, Lewis island,
Outer Hebrides, Ross-shire, on the northern shore of
salt-water Loch Luirbost, 9 miles SSW of Stornoway,
imder which it has a post office. Near it are a new
Free church (1881), and Luirbost public schooL
Crosschain Hill. See Fala.
Crossfield Hill. See Unst.
Crossford, a village in the N of Lcsmahago parish,
Lanarkshire, near the left bank of the Clyde, imme-
diately above the Nethan's influx, 4^ miles NW by W
of Lanark, under which it has a post office. At it are
Free and U. P. churches; and near it are the ruins of
Ckaignethan. ' In 1686,' saj's honest Patrick Walker,
' many people gathered together about Crossford, where
there were showers of bonnets, hats, guns, and swords,
which covered the trees and ground ; companies of men in
arms marching along the water side ; coni[)anies meeting
comjianies all through other, and then all falling to the
ground, and disap])earing, and other companies appear-
ing the same way. I went there three afternoons
together, and, as I could observe, there were two of the
people that were together saw, and a third that saw not ;
and though I could see nothing, yet there was such a
fright and trembling upon those that did see, that was
discernible to all from those that saw not,' etc. (Cham-
bers's Domestic Annals, ii. 485). Pop. (1841) 431,
(1861) 530, (1871) 543, (1881) 816.— O^t^. Sur., sh. 23,
1865.
Crossford, a village, with a public school, in Dunferm-
line parish, Fife, Ih mile WSAV of Dunferndine town.
Crossford. See Glencaiiix, Dumfriesshire.
Crossgatehall, a hamlet in Inveresk parish, Edin-
burghshire, 2 miles SSE of Inveresk station.
Crossgates, a village on the inutual border of Dun-
fermline and Dalgety parishes, Fife, with a station on
the North ]'>ritish railway, 3^ miles ENE of Dunferm-
line. Inhabited chiefly by colliers, it is surrounded at
near distances by extensive coal mines ; adjoins lines of
mineral railway, communicating with St David's har-
bour on Inverkeithing Bay ; and has a post office, with
CROSSGATES
CROSSPOL
money order, savings' bank, and telegraph departments,
2 hotels, a U.P. church (1802; 531 sittings), and a
public school, -which, with accommodation for 160
children, had (ISSO) an average attendance of 124, and
a grant of £91, 2s. Pop. (1841) 646, (1861) 1115, (1871)
1181, (1881) 1215.
Crossgates, a hamlet on the "W border'of Cults parish,
Fife, 3 furlongs SW of Pitlessie.
Crossgellioch, a wild mossy moor in Carsphairn
parish, N Kirkcudbrightshire. Three Covenanters, plain
country men, when returning from a conventicle in the
vicinity, in the winter of 1684, were met here by Claver-
house and a party of his men, and were summarily shot.
Their bodies were bm-ied on the moor ; and, at a recent
period, were found embalmed in the moss, ' shrouded in
their hosen, in their coats, and in their bonnets, exactly
as they fell.'
Crossgills, a hamlet in Ruthwell parish, S Dum-
friesshire, 3 furlongs NW of Ruthwell station.
Crosshall, a colliery village in the SW of Polmont
parish, Stirlingshire, 2^ miles SSE of Falkirk.
Crosshall, an ancient monument in Eccles parish, Ber-
%vickshire, 1 mile N of Eccles village. It comprises a
monolithic sandstone pedestal, 9 feet square and 2^ high,
and a monolithic sandstone column, rising fully 10 feet
from the pedestal, through which it passes deep into
the ground, and carved in its N and S faces with curious
sculptures. It is thought by some antiquaries to have
been raised to the memory of a Percy of Northumberland,
by others to have been erected after the second crusade,
in the latter half of the 12th century, to the memory of
the father of Sir John de Soulis. The place where it
stands was formerly called Deadriggs, and is tradition-
ally said to have been the scene of a bloody battle.
Crosshands, a village, with a public school, in Mauch-
line parish, Ayrshire, 2 miles KNW of Mauchline
village.
Crosshill, a village in Kirkmichael parish, AjTshire,
and a quoad sacra jjarish partly also in Kirkoswald and
Maybole parishes. The village stands on the left bank
of Girvan Water, 3 miles SE of Maybole, and 2S NE of
Kilkerran station. Chiefly consisting of a long regular
street of one-story houses, running at right angles from
the river, it has a post office under Maybole, with
money order and savings' bank departments, a principal
inn, an Established chui'ch (1838), a Free chui'ch, and a
school. The quoaA sacra parish, constituted in 1853, is
in the presbytery of Ayr and s}'nod of Glasgow and
Ayr ; its two public schools, Crossbill and Kilkerran
Hillside, with respective accommodation for 270 and
61 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 159
and 52, and grants of £125, 14s. and £39, 3s. Pop.
of village (1841) 116-3, (1861) 1107, (1871) 835, (ISSl)
740 ; of?, s. palish (1871) 1372, (1881) 1284, of whom
1006 were in Kirkmichael. — Orel. Sur., sh. 14, 1863.
Crosshill, a south-eastern outbreak of Baillieston
village, in Old Monkland parish, Lanarkshire.
Crosshill. See Govanhill.
Crosshill. See Strathave^.
Crosshouse, a village in Kilmaurs parish, Ayrshire,
on Carmel Water, 2^ miles W of Kilmarnock, and 1
mile SSAV of Crosshouse station. At it is the handsome
Established church (1882 ; 450 sittings) of a quoad
sacra parish, formed out of Kilmaurs and Dreghorn, and
also a public school. Coal has long been wrought in the
vicinity, and ironstone during the last 12 or 13 years.
Pop. of village (1861) 468, (1871) 713, (1881) 631 ; of
q. s. parish (1881) 2424.
Crosshouses, a hamlet in Kettle parish, Fife, 2 miles
SE by E of Kettle village.
Cross Isle, a small island in Dunrossness parish,
Shetland, off the mouth of Quendal Bay, 3^ mUes WNW
of Sunburgh Head.
Crosskirk, a place on the SW coast of Westray
Island, Orkney, distant 1 mile from Westray manse.
A pre-Reformation church here was used by Presby-
terians till about 1776, and then became ruinous ; its
ancient burjing-ground is still in use.
Crosslee, a hamlet in Stow parish, Edinburghshire,
on the south-eastern verge of the county, near Gala
Water and Bowland station, 3 miles S of Stow village,
under which it has a post office.
Crosslee, a village in Houston parish, Renfrewshire,
on the left bank of the Gryfe, 2^ miles NW of John-
stone station. A cotton mill, built here in 1793, was
burned down about 1858 ; and the villagers now are
mainly employed in the neighbouring oil-works of
Clippens. Pop. (1861) 383, (1871) 379, (1881) 400.
Crossmichael, a village and a parish of central Kirk-
cudbrightsliire. The village, pleasantly-seated on the
left bank of the lake-like Dee, with a station upon the
Glasgow and South-Western, 3| miles NW of Castle-
Douglas, has an inn and a post office ; but its cross, St
Michael's, round which was held a Michaelmas fair, has
long since disappeared.
Containing also Clarebrand hamlet and a north-
western outskirt of Castle -Douglas, the parish is
bounded NE by Kirkpatrick-Durham and Urr, SE by
Buittle, S by Kelton, SW by Balmaghie, and NW by
Parton. Its utmost length, from NAV to SE, is 5g miles ;
its breadth, from NE to SW, varies between 2f and 4|
miles ; and its area is 10,148J acres, of which 220J are
water. The Dee winds 44 miles south-south-eastward
along all the boundary with Balmaghie, Urr Water
4| along that with Kirkpatrick-Dm-ham and Urr ; and
in the interior are Lochs Culgruft (2x1 furl.), Erncrogo
(3 X li), RoAX (3i X 2g), and Smaddy (1 x f ), with three
or four tinier lakelets. The surface, which sinks along
the Dee to less than 200, and along Urr Water to less
than 100, feet above sea-level, has a general north-
north-westerly rise, being studded by a number of low
eminences, and culminating at 711 feet on the western
shore of Loch Roan. The rocks are chiefly Silurian ;
and the soils of the arable lands, along the streams and
among the hills, which in places are cultivated up to
the top, are extremely various, including fine alluvium
and rich loam, -with some tilly clay, but chiefly present-
ing a sandy character. Near Glenlochar Bridge stood
an abbey, whose history is utterly lost ; and of six moats,
the largest and best-defined is that of Crofts, which
rises in several stages to a round grassy plat, 280 feet in
diameter, and commands a beautiful prospect. Weapons
and urns, supposed to be Roman, have been found ; and
a cau-n at Blackerne yielded in 1 756 a silver ring and an
amber bead, now in the Edinburgh Antiquarian iluseum.
Mansions are Greenlaw, Glenlochar Lodge, Danevale
Park, MoUance, and Ernespie ; and 10 proprietors hold
each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 17 of be-
tween £100 and £500, 2 of from £50 to £100, and 7 of
from £20 to £50. Crossmichael is in the presbji;ery of
Kirkcudbright and synod of Galloway ; the living is
worth £339. The parish church, at the hamlet, was
built in 1751, and contains 650 sittings ; in the grave-
yard is a tombstone to ' William Graham, shot dead by
a party of Claverhouse's troop, for his adherence to
Scotland's Reformation Covenants, 1682.' There is also
a U.P. church, near Castle-Douglas; and two public
schools, Crossmichael and Clarebrand, with respective
accommodation for 200 and 100 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 89 and 79, and grants of £96,
Is. 6d. and £88. 7s. 6d. Valuation (1860) £10,725,
(1882) £15,024, '4s. lOd. Pop. (1801) 1084, (1831)
1325, (1861) 1536, (1871) 1492, (1881) lZi3.—0rd.
Sur., sh. 5, 1857.
Crossmill. See Corsemill.
Crossmyloof, a village in the NW comer of Cathcart
parish, Renfrewshire, 1 mile NE of Pollokshaws, and
1^ SSW of Glasgow, under which it has a post and
telegraph office. At it are a public school, an Established
mission station, and an extensive bakery, started in
1847. At a council of war here, according to a popular
myth, Queen Mary, on the morning of the battle of
Langside, laid a small crucifix on her hand, saying, 'As
surely as that cross lies on my loof, I will this day
fight the Regent,'— hence the name Orossmyloof. Pop.
(1841) 587, (1861) 939, (1871) 988, (1881) 1195.
Crosspol, a bay in the S of Coll island, Argyllshire.
It measures 2 miles across, but lies exposed to tlie S and
313
CROSSRAGUEL
the SW, and is profusely studded with sunken rocks.
A sandy beach, about a mile long, fringes it on tlie N,
and is the chief feature of its kind in Coll.
Crossraguel, a ruined Clngniac abbey in Kirkoswald
parish, Ayrshire, 2 miles SW of Maybole. It seems to
have derived its name (Lat. CmxRcjaJis, 'king's cross')
from a cross of St Oswald, King of Xorthumbria {oh.
643), but itself was dedicated to the Virgin ]\Iary, and
was founded about 1240 by Duncan, first Earl of Car-
rick, for Clugniacs of Paisley, from which it was made
exempt in 1244. The last of its abbots, Queutin
Kennedy, in 1562 held a famous dispute with John
Knox at ]\laybole ; he died in 1564, when a pension of
£500 a year'was conferred upon George Buchanan out
of the abbey's revenues. Their bulk was granted to
AllanStewart, who, as commendatorvisitingthebounds of
Crossraguel in 1570, was pouncedon by Quentin'suephew,
Gilbert, fourth Earl of Cassillis, and carried olf to the sea-
castle of DuNTRE, there, in the Black Vault, to be
' roasted in sop ' until he consented to subscribe ' a five-
year tack and a nineteen-year tack and a charter of feu of
all the lands of Crossraguel, with all the clauses necessar
for the great King of Carrick to haste him to hell ' (Cham-
bers's Dom. Ann., i. 65-67). To the Earl's desire, how-
ever, to turn it to his own account we probably owe the
partial preservation of the abbey. Its ruins. Second
Pointed in style, comprise some portions of the domestic
buildings on the S side, the walls of the church, and
the square chapter-house, with high arched roof upborne
by a clustered pillar. The roofless church is a narrow
aisleless oblong, measuring internally 160 by 25 feet, and
divided nearly midway by a gabled wall, containing a
doorway. The choir ends in a three-sided ap.se, and
retains an aumbry, sedilia, and an altar tomb. See
vol. iL of Grose's Antiquities of Scotland (1791), and
vol. i. of Billings' Baronial and Ecclesiastical Antiquities
(1S45).
Crossroads. See Grange, Banffshire.
Crossroads. See Dreguoex, Ayrshire.
Croulin Isles, a group of islets in Applecross parish,
Ross-shire, off the N side of the entrance of Loch Carron.
Croulinmore, the largest of them, is 1 mile long.
Crovie, a fishing village in Gamrie parish, NE Banff-
shire, on the E side of Gamrie Bay, 1 mile NE of Gar-
denstown. Supposed to have been founded early in the
ISth century, it stands in a rocky ravine, which is
traversed by a brook ; and it presents the gable end of
its houses to the sea, the other end to a bank of the
ravine. Pop. (1881) 258.
Crowbutt, a hamlet in Chirnside parish, Berwickshire,
1 mile NE of Chirnside village.
Crowlista. See Uig.
Croy, a station in the W of Cumbernauld parish,
Dumbartonshire, on the Edinburgh and Glasgow section
of the North British, Ig mile SSE of Kilsyth, and 11 J
miles NE of Glasgow.
Croy, a hamlet on the NE border of Inverness-shire,
and a parish partly also in Nairnshire. The hamlet lies
8 miles SW of Nairn and 3 S of Fort George station,
which is lOi miles NE of Inverness, and under which
it has a post office.
The ])arish, containing also Clephanton village, 6^
miles SW of Nairn, comprises the ancient parishes of
Croy and Dalcross, united in the latter part of the 15th
century. Bounded N by Nairn parish, E by Cawdor,
S by Aloy and Daviot, and NW by Daviot and Petty,
it has an utmost length, from NNE to SSW, of 10^ miles ;
a varj-ing width of 1^ and 4§ jniles ; and a land area of
22,779 acres. This last includes the Leys or .south-
western division, which, severed from the main body by
a .strip (5 furlongs wide at the narrowest) of Daviot, is
on all other sides surrounded by Inverness, its greatest
length and breadth being 6J and IJ miles. The river
Naiun winds 122 miles north-eastward along the bor-
ders and through the interior of the main portion, from
just below Daviot House to just above Kosi'lif Id ; the
Loch of the Clans (2 x 1 furl.) lies in the northern ex-
tremity, and on the Petty boundary is Loch Flcmington
(4A X If furl.). The beautiful strath of the Nairn here
314
CRUDEN
sinks from 400 to 100 feet al)ove sea-level ; but the sur-
face generally is flat and forbidding in aspect, including
the wide bleak moors of Clava and Culloden, and only
in the south-eastern corner rising steeply to 1000 feet
on Saddle Hill, 1027 on Creagan Glas, and 1787 on
Beinn Buidhe JIhor. The rocks are variously granite,
gneiss. Old Red sandstone, unconsolidated drift, and
liassic limestone, the last of which has been calcined for
economic purposes. The soil in the eastern division is
of all descriptions, so interspersed with one another that
scarcely two continuous acres can be found of the same
quality ; that of the western is also various, but forms,
on the whole, a fine mixture of clay black land and
sandy or gravelly materiah Great improvements have
been effected since 1845, hundreds of acres that once
were barren moor having either been planted or brought
under the plough. A remarkable ancient Caledonian
monument, comprising two concentric circles of large
stones, two large slabs within the inner circle, and a
huge upright of conglomerate a few feet W of the outer,
crowns a round gravel mound on the NW border of the
parish ; and remains of crannoges or ancient lake-dwell-
ings, formed of alternate strata of stones, earth, and oak,
and resting on oaken piles strongly fixed by transverse
beams, were discovered at the draining of a lake in the
eastern end of the parish. The Stones of Clava are
separately noticed, as likewise are the battlefield of
Culloden, the ruins of Dalcross Castle, and the four
mansions, Cantray House, Holme Rose, Kilravock Castle,
and Le3'S Castle. Seven proprietors hold each an annual
value of more, and five of less, than £500. Croy is in the
presbytery of Nairn and synod of Moray ; the living is
worth £384. The parish church, at the hamlet, was
built in 1767, and contains 527 sittings ; a Free church
stands 1 mile to the SSW. Two schools, Clava and
Croy, with respective accommodation for 100 and 150
children, had (1880) an average attendance of 32 and
129, and grants of £36, 10s. and £129, 3s. 6d. Valua-
tion (1880) £10,399, 19s. 2d., of which £3699, Is. 6d.
was in Nairnshire. Pop. (1801) 1601, (1831) 1664,
(1861) 1873, (1871) 1841, (1881) 1709.— Oni Sur., sh.
84, 1876.
Cruach or Stob na Cruaich, a mountain (2420 feet)
on the NW border of Perthshire, culminating If mile
NW of Loch Laidon.
Cruachan. See Ben Gritachan.
Cruachlussa (Gaeh 'mountain of plants'). See
Knapdale, NonTii.
Crucifield. See Unst.
Cruden {c7vju or crush Dane, according to the popular
etymology), a coast parish of Buchan, NE Aberdeen-
shire, with a post office of its own name at Auchiries
hamlet. Si miles SSW of Peterhead, and 9| NE of its
station and post-town, Ellon, with which it communicates
daily by coach. It is bounded NW by Longside, NE
by Peterhead, E by the German Ocean, S by Slains and
Logie-Buchan, SWand W by Ellon. Its utmost length,
from E to W, is 7^ miles ; its breadth, from N to S, varies
between 2J and 6^ miles; and its area is 18,444J^ acres,
of which 164^ are foreshore and 14 water. Except
for 2 miles of sands at Cruden Bay, the coast-line,
7^ miles long, is fringed with a range of stupendous
cliffs, projecting the headlands of Hare Craig, Jlurdoch
Head, and Wardhill, and indented by Long Haven,
Yoag's Haven, North Plaven, the Bullers of Buchan,
Robie's Haven, and Twa Havens, whilst off them lie
Dunbuy islet ami a long sunken reef, the Scares of
Cruden. The clifls to the S, 100 feet high, consist of
greenstone or basalt ; and those to the N, at j)oints
attaining 200 feet, of reddish granite, with trap-dykes
on the l')lackhill. Inland the general surface sinks little
below 100, ami little exceeds 200, feet above sea-level ;
but rises to 281 at the Hill of Ardilfery, 354 at the Hill
of Auquharney, 447 at the Corse of Balloch, 346 at Hill-
side of Aldie, and 374 near Newtown, the three last close
to the Longside border. Cruden Water, rising just
within Longside, winds 11 miles east-l>y-southward to
the northern corner of Cruden Bay, dividing the parish
into two nearly equal parts, and receiving the burns of
CRUGGLETON
Lacca and Gask ; its current has been utilised to drive
a wool-mill at Auquhaniey and several meal-mills lower
down. Great quantities of peat-moss lie along the
northern boundary ; and forests of oak and other hard-
wood trees anciently occupied much of the area, luit now
are represented only by a few old trees, dwarfed by the
sea-breeze that has stunted the clumps and plantations
of Slains and Auquhamey. Granite and trap are the
prevailing rocks ; and the former has been quaiTied
along the northern cliffs, under great disadvantages of
both' working and transport. The neighbouring waters
teem with fish ; and at a cost of £3000 a new harbour
has recently been formed at the village of Poet Erroll,
where Cruden Water falls into the bay ; it consists of
an outer and an inner basin, the latter 5400 square
yards in area. On the plain skirting Cruden Bay
Malcolm II. of Scotland is said to have defeated Canute,
afterwards King of England, in 1014 ; but the battle is
one of those which, in Dr Hill Burton's words, ' only
find a local habitation and a name, along with the
usual details, from late and questionable authority.'
A mound, evidently artificial, and popularly called the
Battery, cro^\-ns a height to the N of the Hawklaw, and
to the SE of that mound are remains of what seems to
have been a vitrified wall. Another artificial mound,
the Moathill, a seat most probably of feudal justice, and
an eminence, called Gallowhill, where criminals were
executed, are on Ardiffery farm ; whilst Highlaw, 1 mile
from the coast, is cro^vned by a tumulus, said to have
been used for beacon fires, and commanding a fine view
over the low surrounding country, away to the Gram-
pians. A 'Druidical circle,' J mUe W of the parish
church, was demolished in 1831 ; a necklace of jet and
amber, three stone cists, flint implements, a rude old
granite font, and other relics of antiquity, have been
from time to time discovered ; and the Bishop's Bridge
over Cruden "Water, near the church, was built in
1697 by the Right Rev. Dr Jas. Drummond of Brechin,
and widened by the Earl of Erroll in 1763. Slaixs
Castle, however, is the chief artificial feature in the
parish, where 8 proprietors hold each an annual value
of £500 and upwards, 4 of between £100 and £500, and
3 of from £20 to £50. Giving off portions to Ardallie,
Blackhill, and Boddam qiwad sacra parishes, Cruden is
in the presbytery of Ellon and sjmod of Aberdeen ; the
living is worth £800. The parish church, on the right
bank of Cruden Water, 1 mile SSW of Auchiries, was
built in 1776, and enlarged in 1834, when two round
towers were added ; it contains 820 sittings, and has
a church-hall beside it. At Hatton, If mile WXW,
stands the Free church (1844) ; and | mile SSW is St
James's Episcopal church (1843 ; 440 sittings), which.
Early English in style, has a nave and chancel, a spire
90 feet high, an organ, and three stained-glass windows.
Of St Olave's or Glaus' chapel, near the New Bridge,
said to have been founded by Canute, the last remains
were carried away for road-metal in 1837. Errol Epis-
copal school and the public schools of Auchiries, Bog-
brae, Coldwells, and Hatton, with respective accommo-
dation for 140, 102, 68, 90, and 150 children, had (1880)
an average attendance of 87, 78, 72, 100, and 108, and
grants of £50, 13s., £61, 18s., £54, £72, 16s., and
£92, 3s. Valuation (1843) £8792, (1881) £16,072, 13s.
6d. Pop. (1801) 1934, (1831) 2120, (1861) 2743, (1871)
3124, (1831) ?AU.—Ord. Sur., sh. 87, 1876.
Cruggleton, an ancient coast parish of SE Wigtown-
shire, united in the middle of the 17th century to Kirk-
madrine and Sorbie, and now forming the south-eastern
section of the present Sorbie. Its ruined Norman church,
3 miles S of Garliesto\vn, belonged to Whithorn priory,
and, consisting of nave and chancel, measures 67^ by 30
feet. Cruggleton Castle, 3 furlongs to the E, stoocl on
a bold rocky headland, over 100 feet high, mid-way
between Rigg or Cruggleton Bay and Port Allan. Sup-
posed to have been built by Nor.semen, it was long
the seat of the Irish M'Kerlies; is .said to have been
captured by both Edward I. and Wallace ; and after
passing through many hands, came eventually to the
Agnews. It is now represented by only an arch, the
CUILLIE
foundations of some walls, and distinct traces of a
fosse.
Cruicksfield, an estate, with a mansion, in the S of
Bunkle parish, Berwickshire, 4 miles NE of Dunse.
Cruick Water, a sti-eara of NE Forfarshire, rising at
the northern extremity of Fearn parish, and running
15| miles south-south-eastward and east-north-eastward
through Fearn, Menmuir, and Stracathro, till it falls
into the North Esk, 5 furlongs E of Stracathro church.
A capital trouting stream, but possessed of little beauty,
it descends from 1480 to 118 feet above sea-level, and
becomes after heavy rains a voluminous and furious
toiTent, though dwindling to a mere rill in time of
drought.— Oat;. Sur., sh. 57, 1868.
Cruikston. See Crookston.
Cruin. See Ixchcruin.
Cruister, a hamlet near Sandwick, in Dunrossness
parish, Shetland.
Cruivie, a ruined square tower on the lands of Straiton,
in Logic parish, NE Fife, 2| miles NNE of Logie
church.
Crummag Head, See Cramjiag.
Crutherland, an estate, with a mansion, in Glasford
parish, Lanarkshire, on the right bank of Calder Water,
2f miles SE of East Kilbride.
Cryston. See Chrtstox.
Cuan, a narrow sound separating Luing island from
Seil island, in KUbrandon and KUchattan parish, Argyll-
shire. It has a very strong current, running at the rate
of 7 or 8 miles an hour ; and, in consequence of the
church standing near it, gives name popularly to the
parish.
CuchuUins or Coolins, a group of savagely picturesque
mountains in Bracadale and Strath parishes, Isle of
Skye, Inverness-shire. Rising from the sea-shore to the
E of Loch Brittle and N of Loch Scavaig, and extending
north-eastward to Glen Sligachan, eastward to the valley
of Strath, they occupy an area of about 35 square miles,
and are a confused assemblage of barren heights, from
2000 to 3000 feet high, distinguishable, by striking
differences in outline, feature, and colouring, into two
great sections. The southern and larger of these con-
sists of smooth, conoidal masses, that rise from a
labyrinth of low ground — each separate from its fellow,
nearly all streaked from summit to base with broad
reddish sheets of dihris, and many of them abrupt,
acclivitous, and rounded like vast bare cones. The
northern section, on the other hand, consists of singularly
rugged and sen-ated ranges and masses of mountains,
intersected by wild ravines, and shooting up in sharp
and jagged peaks. It is mainly formed of hypersthene,
whose dark metallic aspect is relieved by scarce one
blade of vegetation ; and, strongly attracting rain-clouds
from the ocean, it often is lashed with storms. Always,
even amid the blaze of summer sunshine, a region of
desolation, without any play of colours, it looks under a
■WT-eathiug of clouds to be little else than an assemblage
of deep and horrible abysses, which the eye vainly en-
deavours to penetrate ; dark Loch Coruisk lies in its
very core. The loftiest peak is Scuir-na-Gillean (3183
feet), 4i mUes S of Sligachan inn ; and six other summits
are estimated to exceed 3000 feet above sea-leveh See
chaps. V. and vi. of Alexander Smith's Summer in Skye
(1865).
Cuckold-Le-Roi. See Cocklerue.
Cuen or Loch nan Cuinne. See Baden.
Cuff Hill. See Beith, Ayrshire.
Cuil, a bay in Appin, Argyllshire, opening fi-om Loch
Linnhe, 4.^ miles NE of Shuna island. With a semi-
circular outline, on a chord of 1;^ mile, it is engirt with
a fine sandy beach, receives the river Duror, and is
often frequented by large shoals of herrings.— Ore?. Sur.,
sh. 53, 1877.
Cuilhill, a village in Old Jlonkland parish, Lanark-
shire, 2 miles AV of Coatbridge.
Cuillie or Culaidh, a loch in the upper part of Kildonan
parish, Sutherland, 2i miles SSW of Forsinard station.
Rudely triangular in shape, it has an utmost length of
3 and 2 furlongs, and teems with trout.
315
CUILTRANNICH
Cuiltrannich, a hamlet in Kenmore parish, Perth-
shire, luar the north-western shore of Loch Tay, 9 miles
NE of Killin.
Cuilunum Moss, a hamlet in Port of Monteith parish,
S\V Perthshire, 1| mile WNW of Port of Monteith
station.
Culag, a rivulet of Assynt parish, SW Sutherland,
issuing from a lochlet 2 miles SE of the summit of
Canisp, and thence running 8 miles west-north-westward
to the head of Loch Inver, at Culag Hotel It expands
in its course into a series of eight or nine small lakes,
which teem with trout, and in which, too, sea-trout and
grilse are sometimes taken. — Ord. Sur., sh. 107, 1881.
Culbin, a sandy desert on the southern coast of the
Moray Firth, extending across the entire breadth of
Dyke and Moy parish, Elginshire, into Kinloss parish,
Elginshire, and Auldearn parish, Nairnshire. Compris-
ing some 9500 acres of what was once the very garden
of Jloray, it began to be overwhelmed with sand as far
back as 1100, according to Boece ; but the barony itself
of Culbin was not destroyed till 1670-95, ' the which
was mainly occasioned by the pulling up by the roots of
bent, juniper, and broom bushes, which did loose and
break the surface and scroof of the sand-hills.' Now all
is covered with sand or sand-hills, to a depth in places
of 100 feet. The worst jiarts lie immediately west of
the lagoon and mouth of the Findhorn river, and these
underwent so great a change as to shift the river's mouth
nearly 2 miles eastward, and to overwhelm the ancient
town and harbour of Findhorn. — Ord. Sur., shs. 84, 94,
1876-78. See vol. iii., pp. 119, 120, of Chambers's
Domestic Annals of Scotland (1861).
Culblean, a hill range in tlie E of the Tullich section
of Glenmuick parish, SW Aberdeenshire, 4 miles NE
of Ballater. Extending about 5 miles south-by-eastward
from Morven Hill to the vicinity of the Dee, it has an
altitude of 1750 feet above sea-level, and at its southern
end contains the curious natural excavation called the
Vat. Here, on 30 Nov. 1335, the Scottish regent, Andrew
Murray of Bothwell, defeated David, thirteenth Earl
of Athole, who, setting his back to a rock, said it should
flee as soon as he, and so fell, with many of his 3000
followers.
Culbockie, a village in Urquhart and Logie-Wester
parish, Koss-shire, 9 miles ENE of Dingwall, under
which it has a post office. At it stands a public school ;
and fairs are held here on the fourth Wednesday of
April, the first Wednesday of July, the last Wednesday
of October, and the second Wednesday of December.
Culbumie. See Kiltarlity.
Culchary, See Cawdor.
Culcreuch, an estate, with a mansion, in Fin try parish,
Stirlingshire. The mansion, standing 1^ mile NNW
of Fintry village and 5 miles E by S of Balfron, is a fine
edifice, with beautiful grounds. Its present owner is
Sir Geo. Home-Speirs, tenth Bart, since 1671 (b. 1832 ;
sue. 1849), who in 1858 married the niece and heiress of
the late Alex. G. Speirs, Esq. of Culcreuch, and who
holds 7172 acres in the shire, valued at £2098 per
annum. A large cotton factory, 5 furlongs SW of the
mansion, near Newtown village, was erected by the pro-
prietor of the estate about 1796.
Culdees Castle, a mansion in Muthill parish, Pertli-
shire, standing on a commanding site, amid a fine })ark
near the left bank of Machany Water, ^ mile WSW of
Muthill station, and 4J miles SSE of Crieff. Its owner,
Rt. Thos. Napier Speir of Burnbrae, holds 1619 acres
in I'ertlishire, valued at £1972 per annum.
Culduthel, a hamlet, with a public school, in the
parisli of Inverness, 3 miles S by E of Inverness town,
under which it has a post oHice.
Culhom House, a seat of tlie Earl of Stair in Stranraer
parish, Wigtowiisliire, 1^ mile SE of Stranraer town.
Jiuilt for a barracks, it is a large clumsy brick edifice,
but stands amid iinely-wooded policies.
Culkein. See Assynt.
Cullalo Hills. See Aberdoue and Aucutertool,
Fife.
Cullean. See Colzean.
.316
CULLEN
CuUen, a coast town and parish of Banffshire. A
seaport and royal and parliamentary burgh, tlie town is
situated on Cullen Bay, at the mouth of the Burn of
Deskford, 5| miles W by N of Portsoy station, with
which it communicates thrice a day by omnibus, and
which is 21 miles NNW of Tillynaught Junction, 8f W
by N of Banft', 18 NNE of Grange Junction, and 61|
NW of Aberdeen. Its mean-looking Old Town, stand-
ing a little inland, about the year 1822 was utterly
demolished, to make way for improvements at Cullen
House ; a somewhat ancient part, called Fishertown or
Seatown, on the shore, has a very irregular appearance,
and is inhabited chiefly by fisher-folk. Close to the
eastern extremity of Seatown, but on much higher
ground, is the New Town, which, built in 1822 and
subsequent years in lieu of the demolished Old To^vn,
presents a regular and pleasant aspect, with its open
market-place and its three streets, respectively 300,
400, and 550 yards long, and which at first was planned
to be fully double its existing size. It enjoys the most
charming environs, in the sweep of its crescent bay, in
the rocky grandeur of the neighbouring coast, and in the
lawns and woods of Cullen House, away to the conical
Bin Hill of Cullen (1050 feet), 2| miles to the SW.
At the town itself are a post office, under Fochabers,
with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph depart-
ments, branches of the Union and North of Scotland
Banks, 6 insurance agencies, gas-works, a public library,
a news-room, and 3 hotels, to one of which, built in
1829, a town-hall is conjoined, with council, court, and
ball rooms. The cruciform parish church, St Slary's,
5 furlongs SSW of the town, was founded by King
Robert I., and made collegiate in 1543 for a provost, 6
prebendaries, and 2 singing boys, by Sir Alexander
Ogilvie of Deskford, whose recumbent effigy surmounts
a large and richly-ornamented tomb in a mural recess ;
as enlarged by an aisle about 1798, it contains 800
sittings. Other places of worship are Seafield chapel of
ease (1839 ; 450 sittings), a Free church, and an Inde-
pendent chapel ; whilst a public school, with accommo-
dation for 300 children, had (1880) an average attendance
of 348, and a gi-ant of £329, 4s. In the cemetery is a
grey granite obelisk, 14 feet high, erected in 1876 to the
memory of Provost Smith. The Castlehill, an eminence
overhanging the sea, is cro^vned by remains of an ancient
fort, whence vitrified stones have been extracted ; but
whether this is the royal castle where died Elizabeth,
the Bruce's queen, or whether it stood nearer Cullen
House, is doubtful. The eminent physician, Sir James
Clark, Bart. (1788-1870), was a native of Cullen. Its
harbour was formed in 1817, and enlarged in 1834, by
tlie Earl of Seafield, at a cost of more than £10,000.
With a depth at
the pier-head of 8^
feet at neap, and
of 12 at .'ipring
tides, it is one of
the best artificial
havens in the
Moray Firth. The
chief imports are
coals, salt, and
staves ; and ex-
ports are herrings,
dried fish, oats,
potatoes, and tim-
ber. The catching
and curing of fish
is the staple in-
dustry ; and there
are also a boat-
building yard, a rope and sail works, a woollen factory, and
a brewerv. Fairs for cattle and horses are held on the
third Friday of May and the first Friday of November.
Dating its burgh privileges from the reign of William
the Lyon (1105-1214), Cullen is governed by a provost.
2 bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, a billet master,
and 6 other councillors ; with Elgin, Banff, Macduff,
Peterhead, Kintore, and Inverurie, it returns a member
Seal of Cullen.
CULLENOCH
CULLODEN
to parliament. Its parliamentary and municipal con-
stituency numbered 322 in 1882, when the burgh
valuation amounted to £3615, whilst the corporation
revenue was £67. Pop. (1841) 142-3, (1851) 1697, (1861)
1821, (1871) 2056, (1881) 2033.
The parish of Cullen, triancfular in shape, is bounded
N by the Moray Firth, E "by Fordyce, and SW by
Rathven. Its utmost lengtli, "from N to S, is If mile ;
its utmost width, from E to W, is 1^ mile ; and its
area is 925 acres, of which 38| are foreshore, and
15 water. The coast-line, IJ mile long, presents a
bold rocky front to the Bay of Cullen, which is 2|
miles wide across a chord drawn from Scar Nose to
Logic Head, and which from that chord measures 7
furlongs to its innermost recess. Three singular masses
of rock here have been named the Three Kings of Cullen,
most likely after the Magi, or Three Kings of Cologne —
Caspar, Melchior, and Balthazar — whose skulls are sho\vn
in the cathedral there. The deep-channelled Burn of
Deskford, other'wise known as Cullen AVater (Gael, cul-an,
' back-lying water'), flows 2^ miles north-north-westward
along all the Rathven border ; and the surface attains
143 feet above sea-level at the cemetery, and 211 towards
the centre. A bed of stratified quartz, reposing conform-
ably on a thick stratum of compact greywacke, underlies
all the parish ; Old Red sandstone forms two of the Three
Kings, ^ mile W of which are two patches of New
Red sandstone, on disrupted greywacke and beneath
beds of drift ; and in the S is fine lias clay, well
marked by lias fossils. The soil near the shore is
a mixture of sand and gravel, and elsewhere ranges from
strong clay or light loam to a fine rich loam incumbent
on a soft clay bottom. Cullen House, near the parish
church, is a huge pile erected at various periods ; the
whole, as remodelled and enlarged in 1861 by the late
Mr David Bryce, is a noble specimen of Scottish Baronial
architecture. It crowns a steep rock on the right bank
of the Buru of Deskford, across which a one-arch bridge
of 82 feet span leads to the grounds and park, which,
beautiful with streams and lakelets, trim lawns and
stately groves, extend far into Rathven parish, and
among whose adornments is a graceful temple, com-
manding a splendid view over the neighbouring sea.
The house itself is rich in works of art ; and its charter-
room contains a valuable series of documents, extending
back three centuries from 1705. Sir Walter Ogilvie,
Knight, of Auchleven, younger brother of that Sir John
Ogilvie who received a grant of the castle of Airlie,
towards the middle of the 15th century married Mar-
garet, sole daughter and heiress of Sir John Sinclair of
Deskford and Findlater, and thereby acquired the said
estates. His seventh descendant was in 1638 created
Earl of Findlater. That title expired with James,
seventh Earl, in 1811 ; and Cullen now is held by Ian
Charles Grant-Ogilvie, eighth Earl of Seafield since 1701
(b. 1851 ; sue. 1881), who owns 48,946 acres in Banffshire,
valued at£34, 260 per annum. (See also Castle-Grant.)
Three lesser proprietors hold each an annual value of
from £50 to £100, and 23 of from £20 to £50. Cullen
is in the presb3'tery of Fordyce and synod of Aberdeen ;
the living is worth £226. Valuation, exclusive of burgh
(1882), £1217, 4s. lOd. Pop. of entire parish (1801)
1076, (1831)1593,(1861)1975,(1871)2215, (1881)2187.
Orel. Sur., sh. 96, 1876.
CuUenoch, the ancient name of Laurieston, a village
in Balmaghie parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, 6 miles WNW
of Castle-Douglas. It was the meeting-place of the
Kirkcudbrightshire war committee of the Covenanters,
constituted in 1640.
Cullen of Buchan. See Gamrie.
Cullen Park, a mansion in Avondale parish, Lanark-
shire, close to Strathaven.
Cullen Water. See Deskford, Burn of.
Cullerley. See Echt.
Cullicudden, a hamlet and an ancient parish in Reso-
lis parish, Ross-shire. The hamlet lies on the SE shore
of Cromarty Firth, 4| miles WSW of Invergordon, and
25^ N of Inverness ; at it are a public school and a post
office, with money order and savings' bank departments.
The parish, united to Kirkmichael subsequent to 1688,
now forms the western district of Resolis. A fragment
of its church is still standing. A quarry of sandstone
suited for many kinds of public buildings, and varying
in colour from red to deep yellow, has long been worked
in the vicinity of the hamlet.
CuUin. See CrcHVLLiN.
CuUisaid or Cuil na Sith, a loch in the SE of Tongue
parish, Sutherland. Lying 390 feet above sea-level, it
measures Ih furlongs by 1, and sends ofl' a stream 1§
mile east-north-eastward to the head of Loch Loyal.
CuUivoe, a hamlet and a bay in North Yell parish,
Shetland, 40 miles N of Lerwick, under wliich the
hamlet has a post and telegraph ofiice.
Culloden (Gael, cul-oitir, ' back-hnng coast-ridge '),
an estate and a battlefield on the NE verge of Inverness-
shire, in the parishes of Inverness, Croy, Daviot-Dun-
lichity, and Petty. Culloden House stands 1;^ mile SE
by S of Culloden station on the Highland railway, this
being close to the Firth of Beauly and 3| miles ENE of
Inverness. Backed by plantations, it commands a magni-
ficent view, and ' has been renewed in an elegant style '
since 1746, when our engraving shows it to have been a
plain four-storied edifice, with battlemented front and
central bell-turret. "Within it hang portraits of 'Grey'
Duncan Forbes (1572-1654), M.P. and provost of Inver-
ness, who bought the estate from the laird of M'Intosh
in 1626 ; of his great-grandson and namesake, the cele-
brated Lord President of the Court of Session(1685-1747) ;
and of many others of the line — 'a cluster,' Hill Burton
observes, ' of open, handsome, and ingenuous counte-
nances.' The present and tenth laird, also a Duncan
Forbes (b. 1851 ; sue. 1879), holds 5655 acres, valued
at £4553 per annum.
About If mile ESE of the mansion is the battlefield,
Ctilloden or Druramossie Muir, a broad, flat, sandstone
ridge that from 500 feet above sea-level sinks gently to
300 feet along the left bank of the river Nairn, across
which rise the steeper heights of Croy and Dalcross
parish— Saddle Hill (1000 feet), Creagan Glas (1027),
and Beinn Bhuidlie ]\Ihor (1797). Planting and culture
have somewhat changed its aspect, so that now it is but
an opening in a wooa, — an opening the size of a park of
6 or 8 acres, — traversed by a carriage road from Inver-
ness to Nairn, and studded with grassy mounds that
mark the graves of the slain. In the summer of 1881
these graves were cared for by the present proprietor,
one stone being inscribed ■with the names of the clans
M'Gillivray, M'Lean, and M'Lauchlan, whilst there are
separate stones for Clan Stewart of Appin, Clan Cameron,
and Clan M'Intosh, and two graves are marked 'Clans
mixed. ' Then on a new ' Great Cairn, ' CO feet in height,
a slab has been placed, s-ith this legend : — 'The Battle
of Culloden was fought on this moor, 16th April 174f>.
The graves of the gallant Highlanders who fought for
Scotland and Prince Charlie are marked by the names
of their clans.'
The invasion of England over and the battle of Fal-
kirk won, the Highland army, from besieging Stirling
Castle, retired to Inverness, where, on 12 April 1746,
news reached them, scattered and disorganised, that the
Duke of Cumberland had marched from Aberdeen.
Fording the deep am! rapid Spey, he on the 14th entered
Nairn, where the Prince's outposts halted till he was
within a mile of the town, beginning their retreat in
.sight of the British army. Next day, the Duke's birth-
day, the royal camp was a scene of festivity, provisions
being plentifully supplied by a fleet of storesliips that
had followed along the coast ; but the Prince, enjoying
no such advantage, found himself forced to hasten the
issue of the contest by a third appeal to arms. It was
therefore resolved in a council of war to attack the
enemy's camp in the night, and thus to compensate, so
far as might be, for inferiority of numbers, and yet more
for the want of cavalry and cannon. But as a surprise,
to be successful, must be ellected with speed and concert,
it is manifest that prompt obedience and accurate calcu-
lation are indispensable. The Highlanders did not finish
their preparations till the evening was far advanced,
317
CULLODEN
and, the night being very dark, they could not com-
plete their march until it was too late to hazard an
onset with any prospect of advantage. Orders were
therefore given for a retreat, and the wearied clansmen,
retracing their steps under a load of melancholy and
suspicion, resumed their original gi-ound on Culloden
Muir. In the opinion of the wisest among Charles's
officei-s, his arm}', after a march at once so harassing
and discouraging, should have taken up a position be-
yond the liver Nairn, where the bank was high and
inaccessible to cavalry. But to such reasonable pro-
posals he turned a deaf ear, being moved by a romantic
notion that it was unworthy of him to retire in the
presence of an enemy, or even to avail himself of any
sujieriority that might be attained by the judicious
choice of a field of battle. He would rather await the
onset of the Duke of Cumberland, who, profiting by the
experience of Cope and Hawley, made his dispositions
with much more skill and foresight than had been
shown at Frestonpaus or Falkii'k.
Before commencing the march, written instructions,
which had been communicated to the commanders of
the difl'erent regiments, were read at the head of every
company in the line. They ran, that if those to whom
the charge of the train or baggage horses was entrusted
should abscond or leave them, they should be punished
with instant death ; and that if any officer or soldier
misconducted himself during the action, he should be
sentenced. The infantry marched in three parallel
divisions or columns, of five regiments each, headed by
General Huske on the left, Lord Sempill on the right,
and General Mordaunt in the centre. The artillery and
baggage followed the first column on the right ; and the
dragoons and horse, led by Generals Hawley and Bland,
were on the left, forming a fourth column. Forty of
Kingston's horse and Argyllshire men led the van.
The charge of ranging the Highland army in line of
battle on this important occasion was entrusted to
O'Sullivan, who acted in the double capacity of adjutant
and quartermaster-general. This officer, in the oiiinion
of Lord George ^lurray, a high authority certainly, was
utterly unfit for such a task, and committed gross blun-
ders on every occasion of moment. In the present
instance, he did not even visit the ground where the
army was to be drawn up, and committed a ' fatal error '
in omitting to throw down some park walls on the
left of the English army, which being afterwards taken
possession of by the Duke of Cumberland, it was found
impossible to break the English lines from the destruc-
tive flank-fire opened therefrom on the right of the
Highland army, as it advanced to the attack. While
the Duke of Cumberland was forming his line of battle,
Lord George Murray was very desirous to advance and
demolish these walls ; but as sucli a movement would
have broken the line, the officers about him considered
that the attempt would be dangerous, and he therefore
did not make it.
The Highland army was drawn up in three lines.
The first, or front line, consisted of the Athole brigade,
which had tlie right, the Camerons, Stewarts of Appin,
Frasers, M'Intoshes, il'Lauchlans, M'Leans, John Roy
Stewart's regiment, and Farquharsons, united into one
regiment ; the M'Leods, Chisholms, M'Donalds of Clan-
ranald, Keppoch, anil Glengarry. The three M 'Donald
regiments formed tlie left. Lord George ^Murray com-
manded on the right. Lord John Druiiimond in tlie
centre, and the Duke of Perth on the left, of the first
line. There had been, a day or two before, a violent
(■ontention among the chiefs about precedency of rank.
The M'Donalds claimed tlie riglit as their due, in sup-
l)ort of wliich claim they stated, that as a reward for the
fidelity of Angus J^I 'Donald, Lord of tlie Isles, in pro-
tecting Robert the Bruce for upwards of nine months in
Ids dominions, that prince, at the battle of Bannock-
Iturn, conferred the post of lionour, tlie riglit, on the
•M'Donalds, — that this ])Ost had ever since been held
by them, unless wlien yielded from courtesy, as to the
chief of tlio il'Leans at tlie battle of Harlaw. Lord
George Murray, however, maintained that, under the
318
CULLODEN
Marquis of Montrose, the right had been assigned to the
Athole men, and he insisted that that post should now
be conferred upon them. In this rmseasonable demand.
Lord George is said to have been supported by Loehiel
and his friends. Charles refused to decide a question
with the merits of which he was imperfectly acquainted ;
but, as it was necessary to adjust the difference imme-
diately, he prevailed upon the commanders of the
M 'Donald regiments to waive their pretensions in the
present instance. The M'Donalds in general were far
from being satisfied with the complaisance of their com-
manders, and, as they had occupied the post of honour
at Prestonpans and Falkirk, they considered their de-
privation of it on the present occasion ominous. The
Duke of Perth, while he stood at the head of the Glen-
garry regiment, hearing the murmurs of the M'Donalds,
said, that if they behaved with their wonted valour
they would make a right of the left, and that he would
change his name to M 'Donald ; but the haughty clans-
men paid no heed to him.
The second line of the Highland army consisted of
the Gordons under Lord Lewis Gordon, formed in
column on the right, the French Royal Scots, the Irish
piquets or brigade. Lord Kilmarnock's foot guards,
Lord John Drummond's regiment, and Glenbucket's
regiment in column on the left, flanked on the right by
Fitz-James's dragoons, and Lord Elcho's horse-guards,
and on the left by the Perth squadron, under Lords
Strathallan and Pitsligo, and the Prince's body-guard.s
under Lord Balmerino. General Stapleton had the
command of this line. The third line, or reserve, con-
sisted of the Duke of Perth's and Lord Ogilvy's regi-
ments, under the last-mentioned nobleman. The
Prince himself, surrounded by a troop of Fitz-James's
horse, took his station on a very small eminence behind
the centre of the first line, from which he had a com-
plete view of the whole field of battle. The extremities
of the front line and the centre were each protected by
four pieces of cannon.
The English army continued steadily to advance in
the order already described, and, after a march of eight
miles, formed in line of battle, in consequence of the
advance guard reporting that they perceived the High-
land army at some distance making a motion towards
them on the left. Finding, however, that the High-
landers were still at a considerable distance, and that
the whole body did not move forward, the Duke of
Cumberland resumed his march, and continued to
advance till within a mile of the enemy, when he
ordered a halt, and, after reconnoitring the position of
the Highlanders, re-formed his army for battle in three
lines, and in the following order.
The first line consisted of six regiments, viz., the
Royals (the 1st), Cholmondeley's (the 34th), Price's
(the 14th), the Scots Fusilcers (the 21st), Monro's
(the 37th), and Barrel's (the 4th). The Earl of Albe-
marle had the command of this line. In the interme-
diate spaces between each of these regiments were placed
two pieces of cannon, making ten in all. The second
line consisted of five regiments, viz., those of Pulteney
(the 13th), Bligh (the 20th), Sempill (the 25th), Li-
gonier (the 4Sth), and Wolfe's (the 8th), and was under
the command of General Huske. Three pieces of
cannon were jdaced between the exterior regiments of
this line and those next them. The third line or corps
de reserve, under Brigadier Jlordaunt, consisted of four
regiments, viz., Battereau's (the 62d), Howard's (the
3d), Fleming's (the 3(3th), and Blakeney's (the 27th),
flanked by Kingston's dragoons (the 3d). The order in
which the regiments of the dilierent lines are enume-
rated is that in which they stood from right to left.
The flanks of the front line were protected on the left
by Kerr's dragoons (the 11th), consisting of three
squadrons, commanded by Lord Ancrum, and on the
right by Cobliam's dragoons (the 10th), consisting also
of three S(piadions, under General Bland, with the ad-
ditional security of a morass, extending towards the
sea ; but, thinking liimself (juite safe on the right, the
Duke afterwards ordered these last to the left, to aid in
CULLODEN
CULLODEN
an intended attack upon tlie riglit flank of the High-
landers. The Argyll men, with the exception of 140,
who were upon the left of the reserve, remained in
charge of the baggage.
The dispositions of both armies are considered to
have been well arranged ; but both were better cal-
culated for defence than for attack. The arrangement
of the English army is generally considered to have
been superior to that of the Higlilanders ; as, from the
regiments in the second and third lines being placed
directly behind the vacant spaces between the regiments
in the lines before them, the Duke of Cumberland, in
the event of one regiment in the front line being
broken, could immediately bring up two to supply its
place. But this opinion is questionable, as the High-
landers had a column on the flanks of the second line,
which might have been used either for extension or
echelon movemeut towards any point to the centre, to
support either the first or the second line.
In the dispositions described, and about the distance
of a mile from one another, did the two armies stand
for some time, each expecting the other to advance.
Whatever may have been the feelings of Prince Charles
on this occasion, those of the Duke of Cumberland ap-
pear to have been far from enviable. The thoughts of
Prestonpans and Falkirk could not but raise in him
direful apprehensions for the result of a battle aflecting
the very existence of his father's crown ; and that he
placed but a doubtful reliance upon his troops is evident
from a speech which he now made to his army. He
said that they were about to fight in defence of their
king, religion, liberties, and property, and that if only
they stood firm he had no doubt he should lead them on
to certain victory ; but that as he would much rather be
at the head of one thousand brave and resolute men
than of ten thousand mixed with cowards, if there
were any amongst them, who, through timidity, were
difiident of their courage, or others, who, from con-
science or inclination, felt a repugnance to perform their
duty, he begged them to retire immediately, and pro-
mised them free pardon for so doing, since by remaining
they might dispirit or disorder the other troops, and
bring dishonour and disgrace on the army under his
command.
As the Highlanders remained in their position, the
Duke of Cumberland again put his army in marching
order, and, after it had advanced, with fixed bayonets,
within half a mile of the front line of the Highlanders,
it again formed as before. In this last movement the
English army had to pass a piece of hollow ground,
which was so soft and swampy, that the horses which
drew the cannon sank ; and some of the soldiers, after
slinging their firelocks and unyoking the horses, had to
drag the cannon across the bog. As by this last move-
ment the army advanced beyond the morass which pi'o-
tected the right flank, the Duke immediately ordered up
Kingston's horse from the reserve, and a small squadron
of Cobham's dragoons, which had been patrolling, to
cover it ; and to extend his line, and prevent his being
outflanked on the right, he also at the same time ordered
up Pulteney's regiment (the 13th), from the second line
to the right of the Royals ; and Fleming's (the 36th),
Howard's (the 3d), and Battereau's (the 62d), to the
right of Bligh's (the 20th) in the second line, leaving
Blakeney's (the 27th) as a reserve.
During an interval of about half an hour some
manoeuvring took place, in attempts by each army to
outflank the other. Meanwhile a heavy shower of sleet
came on, which, though discouraging to the Duke's
amiy, from the recollection of the untoward occurrence
at Falkirk, was not considered very dangerous, as they
had now the wind at their backs. To encourage his
men, the Duke of Cumberland rode along the lines
addressing himself hurriedly to every regiment as he
passed. He exhorted his men to rely chiefly upon their
bayonets, and to allow the Highlanders to mingle with
them, that they might make them ' know the men they
had to deal with.' After the changes mentioned had
been executed. His Highness took his station behind the
Royals, between the first and the second line, and almost
in front of the left of Howard's regiment, waiting for
the expected attack. Jleanwhile, a singular occurrence
took place, characteristic of the self-devotion which the
Highlanders were ready on all occasions to manifest
towards the Prince and his cause. Conceiving that by
assassinating the Duke of Cumberland he would confer
an essential service on the Prince, a Highlander re-
solved, at the certain sacrifice of his own life, to make
the attempt. With this intention he entered the
English lines as a deserter, and, being gi'anted quarter,
was allowed to go through the ranks. He wandered
about with apparent indiflerence, eyeing the different
officers as he passed along, and it was not long till an
opportunity occurred, as he conceived, for executing his
fell purpose. The Duke having ordered Lord Bury, one
of his aides-de-camp, to reconnoitre, his lordship crossed
the path of the Highlander, who, mistaking him, from
his dress, for the Duke (the regimentals of both being
similar), instantly seized a musket from the ground, and
discharged it at his lordship. He missed his aim, and
a soldier, who was standing by, shot him dead on the
spot.
The advance of Lord Bury to within a hundred yards
of the insurgents appears to have been considered by the
Highlanders as the proper occasion for beginning the
battle. Taking ofl' their bonnets, they set up a loud
shout, which being answered by the royal troops with a
huzza, the Highlanders about one o'clock commenced
a cannonade on the right, which was followed by the
cannon on the left ; but the fire from the latter, owing
to the want of cannoneers, was, after one round, discon-
tinued. The first volley from the right seemed to
create some confusion on the left of the royal army, but
so badly were the cannon served and pointed, that
though the cannonade was continued upwards of half an
hour, only one man in Bligh's regiment, who had a leg
carried off by a cannon-ball, received any injury. After
the Highlanders had continued firing for a short time,
Colonel Belford, who directed the cannon of the Duke's
army, opened fire from the cannon in the front line, at
first aiming chiefly at the horse, probably either because
from their conspicuous situation they oftered a better
mark than the infantry, or because it was supposed that
Charles was among them. Such was the accuracy of
the aim taken by the royal artillerj', that several balls
entered the gi-ound among the horses' legs and be-
spattered the Prince with the mud that they raised ;
and one of them struck the horse on which he rode two
inches above the knee. The animal became so unman-
ageable, that Charles was obliged to change him for
another, and one of his servants, who stood behind with
a led horse in his hand, was killed on the spot. Ob-
serving that the wall on the right flank of the Highland
anny prevented him from attacking on that point, the
Duke ordered Colonel Belford to continue the cannonade,
with the view of provoking the Highlanders and draw-
ing them on to attack. They, on the other hand, en-
deavoured to lure the royal army forward, and sent down
several parties by way of defiance. Some of these ap-
proached three several times within a hundred yards of
the right of the enemy, firing their pistols and brandish-
ing their swords ; but with the exception of the small
squadron of horse on the right, which advanced a little,
the line remained immovable.
ileanwhile. Lord George Murray, observing that a
squadron of the English dragoons and a party of foot,
consisting of two companies of the Argyllshire men, and
one of Lord Loudon's Highlanders, had detached them-
selves from the left of the royal army, and were march-
ing down towards the I'iver Nairn, conceived that it
was their intention to flank the Highlanders, or to come
ujion their rear when engaged in front, so directed Gordon
of Avochy to advance with his battalion, and prevent
tlie foot from entering the enclosure. Bat before this
battalion could reach them, they had broken into it, and
throwing down part of the east wall, and afterwards a
piece of the west wall in the rear of the second line,
made a free passage for the dragoons, who formed in tho
CULLODEN
rear of the Prince's army. Upon this, Lord George
ordered the guards -ind" Fitz-Jamcs's horse to form
opposite to tiie dragoons to keep them in check. Each
party stood upon one side of a ravine, the ascent to
which was so steep, that neither couhl venture across in
presence of the other with safety. The foot remained
within the enclosure, and Avochy's battalion was
ordered to watch their motions.
It was now high time for the Highlanders to come to
% close engagement. Lord George had sent Colonel
Kerr to the Prince, to know if he should begin the
attack ; the Prince ordered him to do so, but his lord-
ship, for some reason or other, delayed advancing. It
is probable he expected that the Uuke would come
forward, and that by remaining where he was, and
retaining the wall and a small farmhouse on his
right, he would avoid the risk of being flanked.
Perhaps he waited for the advance of the left wing,
which, being not so far forward as the right, was
directed to begin the attack, and orders had been sent
to the Duke of Perth to that effect ; but the left remained
motionless. Anxious for the attack, Charles sent a fresh
order by an aide-de-camp to Lord George Murray, but
his Lordship never received it, as the bearer was killed
by a cannon-ball while on his way to the right. He
sent a message about the same time to Lochiel, desiring
him to urge upon Lord George the necessity of an imme-
diate attack.
Galled be3'ond endurance by the fire of the English,
which carried destruction among the clans, the High-
landers grew clamorous, and called aloud to be led
forward without further delay. Unable any longer to
restrain their impatience. Lord George had just resolved
upon an immediate advance ; but before he had time to
issue the order along the line, the M'Intoshes, wath a
heroism worthy of that brave clan, rushed forward
enveloped in the smoke of the enemy's cannon. The
fire of the centre field-pieces, and a discharge of mus-
ketry from the Scotch Fusileers, forced them to incline
a little to the right ; but all the regiments to their
right, led on by Lord George ]\Iurray in person, and the
united regiment of the M'Lauchlans and M'Leans on
their left, coming down close after them, the whole
moved forward together at a pretty quick pace. When
within pistol-shot of the English line, they received a
murderous fire, not only in front from some field-pieces,
which for the first time were loaded now with grape,
but in flank from a side battery supported by the
Campbells, and Lord Loudon's Highlanders. Whole
ranks were swept away by the terrible fire of the Eng-
lish. Yet, notwithstanding the carnage in their ranks,
the Highlanders continued to advance, and, after giving
their fire close to the English line, which, from the
density of the smoke, was scarcely visible even within
pistol-shot, the right wing, consisting of the Athole
Highlanders and the Camerons, rushed onward sword
in hand, and broke through Barrel's and Monroe's regi-
ments, which stood on the left of the first line. These
regiments bravely defended themselves with their spon-
toons and bayonets ; but such was the impetuosity of
the onset, that they would have been cut to pieces had
they not been supported Ity two regiments from the
second line, on whose approach they retired behind the
regiments on their right, after sustaining a loss in killed
and wounded of upwards of 200 men. After breaking
through these two regiments, the Highlanders hurried
forward to attack the left of the second line. They were
met by a tremendous fire of grape from the three field-
pieces on the left of the second line, and by a discharge
of musketry from Bligh's and Scmpill's regiments, which
carried havoc through their ranks, and ma<le them at
first recoil ; but, maddened by despair, and utterly
regardless of their lives, they rushed upon an enemy
wiioni they felt but could not see amid the cloud of
smoke in which the assailants were wra])]ied. By the
Stewarts of Appin, the Frasers, the M'Intoshes, and
the other centre regiments, a charge as fierce was made
on tlie foe ])efore them, driving them back upon the
•ecoud line, which they also attempted to break ; but,
320
CULLODEN
finding themselves unable, they gave up the contest,
not, however, until numbers had been cut do^^•n at the
cannon's mouth. While advancing towards the second
line, Lord George Murray, in attempting to dismount
from his horse, which had become unmanageable, was
thrown ; but, recovering himself, he ran to the rear and
brought up two or three regiments from the second line
to support the first ; but though they gave their fire,
nothing could be done, — all was lost. Unable to break
the second line, and terribly cut up by the fire of Wolfe's
regiment, and by Cobham's and Kerr's dragoons, who
had formed en jwtcnce on their right flank, the right
wing also gave up the contest, and, turning about, cut
their way back, sword in hand, through those who had
advanced and formed on the ground they had passed
over in charging to their front.
In consequence of the unwillingness of the left to
advance first as directed. Lord George Murray had sent
the order to attack from right to left ; but, hurried
by the impetuosity of the M'Intoshes, the right and
centre did not wait till the order, which required some
minutes in the delivery, had been communicated along
the line. Thus the right and centre had considerably
the start, and, quickening their pace as they went along,
had closed with the front liue of the English army before
the left had got half way over the ground that separated
the two armies. The diff'erence between the right and
centre and the left was rendered still more considerable
from the circumstance, as noted by an eye-witness, that
the two armies were not exactly parallel to one another,
the right of the Prince's army being nearer the Duke'a
than the left. Nothing could be more unfortunate for
the Prince than this isolated attack, as it was only by a
general shock on the whole of the English line that he
had any chance of victory.
The clan regiments on the left of the line, fearful
that they would be flanked by Pulteney's regiment and
the horse which had been brought up from the coiys de
reserve, held back. After receiving the fire of the regi-
ments opposite to them, they answered it by a general
discharge, and drew their swords for the attack ; but,
observing that the right and centre had given way, they
turned their backs and fled without striking a blow.
Stung to the quick by the misconduct of the M 'Donalds,
the gallant Keppoch advanced with drawn sword in one
hand and pistol in the other ; but he had not gone far
when a musket-shot brought him down. He was fol-
lowed by Donald Roy M 'Donald, formerly a lieutenant
in his own regiment, and now a captain in Clanranald's,
who, on Keppoch's falling, entreated him not to throw
away his life, assuring him that his wound was not
mortal, and that he might easily join his regiment in
the retreat ; but — with the exclamation, ' My God !
have the children of my tribe forsaken me?' — Keppoch
refused to listen to the solicitations of his clansman,
and, after recommending him to look to himself, and
receiving another shot, he fell to rise no more.
Fortunately for the Highlanders, the English army
did not follow up the advantage it had gained by an
immediate pursuit. Kingston's horse at first chased the
M 'Donalds, some of whom were almost surrounded by
them ; but they were kept in check by the French
piquets. The dragoons on the left of the English line
were in like manner kept at bay by Ogilvy's regiment,
which faced about upon them several times. After
these ineffectual attempts, the English cavalry on the
right and left met in the centre ; and, the front line
having dressed its ranks, orders were issued for the
whole to advance in pursuit.
Charles, who, from the small eminence on which he
stood, had observed with the deepest concern the defeat
and flight of the clans, was about to advance to rallj
them, contrary to the earnest entreaties of Sir Thomas
Sheridan and others, who assured him that he would
not succeed. All their expostulations would, it is said,
have failed, had not General O'SuUivan laid hold of
the bridle of Charles's horse, and led him off the field.
It was, indeed, full time to retire, as the whole army
was now in full retreat, followed by Cumberland's forces.
CULLODEN
To protect the Prince and secure his escape, most of his
horse assembled about liis person ; but tlicre was little
danger, as the victors advanced ver}- leisurely, and con-
fined themselves to cutting down defenceless stragglers
who fell in their way. After leaving the field, Charles
put himself at the head of the right wing, which retired
in such order that the cavalry sent to pursue could make
no impression on it.
At a short distance from the field of battle, Charles
separated his army into two parts. One of these divi-
sions, consisting, with the exception of the Frasers, of
the whole of the Highlanders and the low country regi-
ments, crossed the river Nairn, and proceeded towards
Badenoch ; the other, comprising the Frasers, Lord
Jolin Drummond's regiment, and the French piquets,
took the road to Inverness. The first division passed
within pistol-shot of the body of English cavalry which,
before the action, had formed in the rear of the High-
land army, without the least interruption. An English
officer, wiio had the temerity to advance a few paces to
seize a Highlander, was instantly cut down by him and
killed on the spot. The Highlander, instead of running
away, deliberately stooped down, and, pulling out a
watch from the pocket of his victim, rejoined his com-
panions. From the evenness of the ground over which
it had to pass, the smaller body of the Prince's army was
less fortunate, as it suffered considerably from the
attacks of the Duke's light horse before it reached
Inverness. Numerous small parties, which had de-
tached themselves from the main body, fell under the
sabres of the cavalry ; and many of the inhabitants of
the town and neighbourhood, who, from motives of
cui'iosity, had come out to witness the battle, were
slaughtered without mercy by the ferocious soldiery,
who, from the similarity of garb, were perhaps unable
to distinguish them from Charles's troops. This indis-
criminate massacre continued all the way from the field
of battle to a place called Mill-burn, within a mile of
Inverness. Not content with the profusion of blood-
shed in the heat of action and during the pursuit, the
infuriated soldiery, provoked by their disgraces at Pres-
tonpans and Falkirk, traversed the field of battle, and
massacred in cold blood the maimed and dying. Even
some officers, whose station in society, apart altogether
from feelings of humanity, to which they were utter
strangers, should have made them superior to this
vulgar triumph of base and illiberal minds, joined in
the work of assassination. To extenuate the atrocities
committed in the battle, and the subsequent slaughters,
a forged regimental order, bearing to be signed by Lord
George Murray, by which the Highlanders were enjoined
to refuse quarter to the royal troops, was afterwards
published, it is said under the auspices of the Duke of
Cumberland ; but the deception was easily seen through.
As no such order was alluded to in the official accounts
of the battle, and as, at the interview which took place
between the Earl of Kilmarnock and Lord Balmerino, on
the morning of their execution, both these noblemen
stated their entire ignorance of it, no doubt whatever
can exist of the forgery. The conduct of Charles and
his followers, who never indulged in any triumph over
their vanquished foes, but always treated them with
humanity and kindness, high as it is, stands higher still
in contrast with that of the royal troops and their com-
mander.
From the characteristic bravery of the Highlanders,
and their contempt of death, it is likely that some of
those who perished, as well on the field after the battle
as in the flight, did not yiekl their lives without a
desperate struggle ; and history has preserved one case
of individual prowess, in the person of Golice Macbane,
that deserves to be recorded. This man, who is repre-
sented to have been of the gigantic stature of 6 feet 4^
inches, was beset by a party of dragoons. Assailed, he
set his back against a wall, and, although covered with
wounds, defended himself with target and claymore
against the onset. Some officers, who observed the
unequal conflict, were so struck witii the desperate
bravery of Macbane, that they gave orders to save him ;
21
CULLODEN
but the dragoons, exasperated by his resistance, and the
dreadful havoc he had made among their companions,
thirteen of whom lay dead at his feet, would not desist
till they had cut him down.
According to the official accoimts published by the
government, the royal army had only 50 men killed,
and 259 wounded, including 18 officers, 4 of whom were
killed. Lord Robert Kerr, second son of the JMarquis of
Lothian, and captain of grenadiers in Barrel's regiment,
was the only person of distinction killed ; he fell covced
with wounds, at the head of his company, when the
Highlanders attacked his regiment. The loss on the
opposite side was never ascertained with any degi'ee of
precision. The number of the slain is stated, in some
publications of the period, to have amounted to upwards
of 2000 men, but these accounts are exaggerated. The
loss could not, however, be much short of 1200 men.
The Athole brigade alone lost more than the half of its
officers and men, and some of the centre battalions came
off" with scarcely a third of their men. The M'ln-
toshes, who were the first to attack, suffered most.
With the exception of three only, all the officers of this
brave regiment, including M'Gillivray of Drumnaglass,
its colonel, the lieutenant-colonel, and major, were killed
in the attack. All the other centre regiments also lost
several officers. M'Lauchlan, colonel of the united
regiment of M'Lauchlan and M'Lean, was killed by a
cannon-ball in the beginning of the action, and M'Lean
of Drimmin, who, as lieutenant-colonel, succeeded to
the command, met a similar fate from a random shot.
He had three sons in the regiment, one of whom fell in
the attack, and, when leading oft' the shattered remains
of his forces, he missed the other two, and, in returning
to look after them, received the fatal bullet. Charles
Eraser, younger of Inverallochie, lieutenant-colonel of
the Eraser regiment, and, in the absence of the blaster
of Lovat, commander of it on this occasion, was also
killed. When riding over the field after the battle, the
Duke of Cumberland observed this brave youth lying
wounded. Raising himself upon his elbow, he looked
at the Duke, who, offended at him, said to one of his
officers : ' Wolfe, shoot me that Highland scoundrel
who thus dares to look on us with so insolent a stare. '
Wolfe, horrified at the inhuman order, replied that his
commission was at his royal highness's disposal, but
that he would never consent to become an executioner.
Other officers refusing to comiuit this act of butchery, a
private soldier, at the command of the Duke, shot the
hapless youth before his eyes. The Ajjpin regiment had
17 officers and gentlemen slain, and 10 wounded ; and
the Athole brigade, which lost fully half its men, had
19 officers killed and 4 wounded. The fate of the heroic
Keppoch has been already mentioned. Among the
wounded, the princijial was Lochiel, who was shot in
both ankles with grape-shot at the head of his regiment,
after discharging his pistol, and while in the act of
drawing his sword. On falling, his two brothers, be-
tween whom he was advancing, raised him up, and
carried him off the field in their arms. To add to his
misfortunes, Charles also lost a considerable number of
gentlemen, his most <levoted adherents, who had charged
on foot in the first rank.
Lord Strathallan was the only person of distinction
that fell among the low country regiments. Lord Kil-
marnock and Sir John Wedderburn were taken prisoners.
The former, in the confusion of the battle, mistook,
amidst the smoke, a party of English dragoons for Fitz-
James's horse, and was taken. Having lost his hat, he
was led bare-headed to tlie front line of the English
infantry. His son, Lord Boyd, who held a commission
in the English army, unable to restrain his feelings,
left the ranks, and, going up to his imfortunate parent,
took off his own hat, placed it on his father's head, and
returned to his place without uttering a word.
At other times, and under different circumstances, a
battle like that of CuUoden would have been regarded
as an ordinary occurrence, of which, when all matters
were duly considered, the victors could make small
boast. The Highland army did not exceed 5000 tight-
321
CULLODEN
ing men ; and when it is considered that they had
been two days without sleep, were exhausted by the
march of the preceding night, and hatl scarcely tasted
food for forty-eight hours, the wonder is that they fought
so well as they did, against an army almost double in
point of numbers, and labouring under none of the dis-
advantages to which, iu a more esjjecial manner, the
overthrow of the Highlanders is to be ascribed. Never-
theless, as the spirits of the great majority of the nation
had been sunk to the lowest state of despondency by the
reverses of the royal arms at Prestonpans and Falkirk,
this unlooked-for event was hailed as one of the greatest
military achievements of ancient or modern times ; and
the Duke of Cumberland, who had, in consequence, an
addition of £25,000 per annum made to his income by
parliament, was regarded as the greatest hero of ancient
or modern times. In its consequences, as entirely and
for ever destructive of the claims of the unfortunate
house of Stuart, the battle was one of the most imjjort-
ant ever fought. Though vanquished, the Highlanders
retired from the field with honour, and free from that
foul reproach which has fixed an indelible stain upon
the memories of the victors.
After the carnage of tlie day had ceased, the brutal
soldiery, who, from the fiendish delight which they took
in sprinkling one another with the blood of the slain,
' looked,' as stated bj^ one of themselves, ' like so many
butchers rather than an army of Christian soldiers,'
dined on the field of battle. After his men had finished
their repast, the Duke of Cumberland marched forward
to take possession of Inverness, and on his way received
a letter, which had been addressed to General Bland,
signed by six of the French ofiicers in the insurgent
army, ottering in behalf of themselves and their men to
surrender unconditionally to His Royal Highness. As
he was about to enter the town he was met by a drum-
mer, who brought him a message from General Staple-
ton, olfering to surrender and asking quarter. On
receiving this communication, the Duke ordered Sir
Joseph Yorke, one of his ofiicers, to alight from his
horse, and pencil a note to General Stapleton, assuring
him of fair quarter and honourable treatment. The
town was then taken possession of by Captain Campbell,
of Sempill's regiment, with his company of gi'enadiers.
Xotwithstauding the massacres which were committed
immediately after the battle, a considerable number of
wounded Highlanders still survived, some of whom had
taken refuge in a few cottages adjoining the field of
battle, while others lay scattered among the neighbour-
ing inclosures. Many of these men might have recovered
if ordinary attention had been paid to them ; but the
stern Duke, considering that those who had risen in
rebellion against his father were not entitled to the
rights of humanity, entirely neglected them. But, bar-
barous as such conduct was, it was only the prelude to
enormities of a still more revolting descrijition. At first
the victors conceived that they had completed the work
of death by killing all the wounded they could discover ;
but when they were informed that some still survived,
they resolved to despatch them. A Mr Hossack, who
had filled the situation of provost of Inverness, and who
hud, under the direction of President Forbes, jjcrformed
important .services to the government, having gone to
pay his respects to the Duke of Cumberland, found
Generals Hawley and Huske deliberating on this in-
liuman design. Observing them intent upon their
object, and actually proceeding to make out orders for
killing the wounded Highlanders, he ventured to remon-
strate against such a barbarous step. ' As his majesty's
troops have been happily successful against the rebels,
I hope,' he said, 'your excellencies will be so good as
to mingle mercy with judgment.' Hawley, in a rage,
••ried out, ' D — n the l)Uiipy ! does he pretend to dictate
here ? Carry him away ! ' Anotiier ofiicer ordered Hos-
sack to be kicked out, and the order was obeyed with
such instantaneous precision, that tlie ex-i)rovost found
Inmself at the bottom of two fiights of stejjs almost in a
twinkling.
In terms of the cruel instructions alluded to, a party
322
CULLOW
was despatched from Inverness the daj' after the battle
to put to death all the wounded they might find in the
inclosures adjoining the field of Culloden. These orders
were fulfilled with a punctualit}^ and deliberation that
is sickening to read of. Instead of despatching their
unfortunate victims on the spot where they found tliem,
the soldiers dragged them from the places wliere they
lay weltering in their gore, and, having ranged them on
some spots of rising ground, poured in volleys of mus-
ketry upon them. Next day parties were sent to search
all the houses in the neighbourhood of the field of battle,
with instructions to carry thither all the wounded High-
landers they could find and despatch them. Many were
iu consequence murdered ; and the young laird of
M'Leod was heard frankly to declare, that on this
occasion he himself saw seventy-two persons killed in
cold blood. The feelings of humanity were not, how-
ever, altogether obliterated in the hearts of some of the
officers, who spared a few of the wounded. In one in-
stance the almost incredible cruelty of the soldiery was
strikingly exemplified. At a short distance from the
field of battle there stood a small hut, used for shelter-
ing sheep and goats in cold and stormy weather, into
which some of the wovmded had crawled. On discover-
ing them the soldiers immediately secured the door, to
prevent egi'ess, and thereupon set fire to the hut in
several places, and all the persons within, to the number
of between thirty and forty, perished in the flames.
Another instance of fiendish cruelty occurred the
same day. Almost immediately after the battle, nine-
teen wounded officers of the Highland army, unable to
follow their retiring companions, secreted themselves in
a small plantation near Culloden House. Thence they
were afterwards carried to the courtyard of the mansion,
where they remained two days in great torture weltering
in their blood, and Mitliout the least medical aid or
attention but such as they received from the President's
steward, who, at the hazard of his own life, alleviated
the suflerings of his unhappy countrymen by several
acts of kindness. These wretched sulferers were now
tied with ropes by the brutal soldiery, thrown into
carts, and carried out to a park wall at a short distance
from Culloden House. Dragged out of the carts, they
were ranged in order along the wall, and were told by
the ofiicer in command of the party to prepare for death.
Such of them as retained the use of their limbs fell down
upon their knees in prayer ; but they had little time
allowed them to invoke mere}-, for in a minute the sol-
diers received orders to fire, and, from a distance of only
two or three yards, the unfortunate gentlemen were almost
all instantly shot dead. To complete the butchery,
the soldiers were ordered to club their muskets and dash
out the brains of such as showed any symptoms of life,
an order which, horrible to tell, was actually fulfilled.
A gentleman named John Fraser, who had been an offi-
cer in the Master of Lovat's regiment, alone survived.
He had received a Ijall, and, being obsei'ved to be still
alive, was struck on tlie face by a soldier with the butt
end of his musket. Though one of his cheek-bones and
the upper part of his nose were broken, and one of his
eyes dashed out by the blow, he still lived, but the
party, thinking they had killed him, left him for dead.
He would probably have expired, had not the attention
of Lord Boyd, son of the Earl of Kilmarnock, when
riding past, been fortunately attracted by the number
of dead bodies lying together. Espying, at a little dis-
tance from the heap, one body stirring, his lordship
went up, and having ascertained from the mouth of the
sufferer who he was, ordered his servant to carry Mr
Fraser to a cottage near at hand, where he lay concealed
for three months. He lived several years afterwards,
but was a crijqile for life.
See The Culloden Papers, 1625-1748 (1815); Hill
Burton's Life of Duncan Forbes (ISiS), and vol. viii. , pp.
486-496, of his Jlistory of Scolland (ed. 1876); Robert
Chambers's History of the llehcllion (1S47); and Alex.
Charles Ewald's Life and Times of rrincc Charles
Stuart (2 vols., 1876).
CuUow, a farm in the parish and near the hamlet of
CULLY
Cortachy, NW Forfarshire, 5 miles N of Kirriemuir.
A sheep fair is held here on the last Friday of April.
Cully. See Cally.
CuUykhan, a romantic ravine in the E of Gamrie parish,
Bantlshire, traversed by a brook, and descending to the
sea, near Troup House.
Culmallie. See Golspie.
Culquhanny. See Colquhony.
Culrain, a station in Kincardine parish, N Ross-shire,
on the Highland railway, 3 miles NW of Ardgay, under
which it has a post and telegraph office. Near it is
Culrain Lodge.
Culross (Gael, 'back or neck of the peninsula'), a
small town and a parish in the detached district of Perth-
shire. A royal and parliamentary burgh, the town
Seal of Culross.
stands on the Firth of Forth, 2i miles SSE of East
Grange station, this being 6 miles W by N of Dunferm-
line, and 7f ESE of Alloa. It occujnes the face of a
brae, amid gardens and fruit-trees, and, as seen from
the Firth, has a pleasing and picturesque aspect ; but,
once a place of importance, it has fallen into gi'eat decay.
It had a Cistercian abbey which possessed much wealth,
and worked large neighbouring coal mines ; it conducted
so great a trade in salt and coal that sometimes as many
as 170 foreign vessels lay off it simultaneously in the
Firth, to receive the produce of its salt-pans and its
mines ; it carried on a great manufacture of the round
iron baking-plates called girdles, w'hich, as noticed in
Scott's Heart of Midlothinn, rendered its hammermen
pre-eminently famous ; and it acquired, towards the close
of the ISth century, extensive works for the extraction
of tar, naptha, and volatile salt from coal. It lost, how-
ever, all these sources of prosperity, and with them its
proper characteristics as a town ; and it now is an old-
world, sequestered place, whose chief attractions are
its beautiful surroundings and various architectural an-
tiquities, of which the ' Palace,' a house near the
middle of the village, bearing dates 1597 and 1611,
is one of the most interesting. Its abbey, dedicated
to SS. ilary, Andrew, and Serf, was founded in
1217 by Malcolm, Earl of Fife, and, with the
lands belonging to it, was granted to Sir James
Colville, who, in 1609, was created Lord Colville of Cul-
ross. The aisleless choir, First Pointed in style,
remains of the abbey church, together with a fine,
lofty, and very perfect western tower, originally central,
of early Second Pointed character ; and the former, as
modernised about 1S24, serves as the parish church, con-
taining nearly 700 sittings. The rest of the abbey is in
ruins. A recess on the N side of the church is the
burial-place of the Bruce family, ami shows white
alabaster effigies of Sir George Bruce {ob. 1625), his lady,
and their eight children, and a niche for the .silver
casket in which was enshrined the heart of Edward,
Lord Bruce, who fell in a duel near Bergen-op-Zoom iu
CULROSS
1613. Culross Abbey House, in the near vicinity of the
church, was built in 1608 bj' Edward, Lord Bruce of Kin-
loss ; and, bought from the Earl of Dundonald by Sir
Robert Preston, by him was nearly demolished, and after-
wards rebuilt in 1830, being now a spacious edifice,
delightfully situated, commanding an extensive prosjiect
of the basin of the Forth, and having in its policies a noble
medlar tree and a Spanish chestnut, 80 feet high, and
19 J^ in girth at 1 foot from the ground. It again belongs
to the Bruces in the person of the Earl of Elgin, who holds
in Perthshire 232 acres, valued at £1871 per annum.
(See Broomhall. ) The ancient parish church, | mile W
by N of the abbej% was formally superseded by the abliey
church in 1633, and is now represented by some ruins
of Norman or First Pointed origin, with several interest-
ing tombstones. At the E end of the town are vestiges of
a chapel, built in 1503 by Robert Blackadder, Archbishop
of Glasgow, and dedicated to St Mungo or Kentigern,
who is commonly stated to have been educated by St
Serf at the monastery of Culross, against which Skene
maintains that Kentigera died in extreme old age in
603, and that Servanus did not found the church of
Culross till between the years 697 and 706 {Celt. Scotland,
ii. 31, 184, 257). Anyhow an Episcopal church. Transi-
tion Norman in style, with nave, apse, N organ chamber,
and bell-gable, containing a chime of three bells, was
dedicated to St Serf in 1876. There are also a Free
church and an endowed school, called Geddes' Institu-
tion, which, rebuilt by the late Miss Davidson at a
cost of £1500, gives education to twenty boys and girls,
and possesses one free Edinburgh bursary. A public
school, with accommodation for 140 children, had (1880)
an average attejidance of 103, and a grant of £92,
7s. 6d. To the E of the town are remains of a hos]iital
founded for six aged women in 1637 by the first Earl
of Elgin, the recipients of whose charity now live in
a modern building erected by Sir Robert Preston.
Charities of considerable value were instituted also by
Dr Bill, Sir Robert Preston, and Miss Halkerston of
Carskerdo. The town has a post office under Alloa,
with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph depart-
ments, 2 inns, a plain town-house, and a fair on the
third Tuesday of July. Erected into a burgh of barony
in 1484, and into a royal burgh in 1588, it is governed
bj'^ a provost, 2 bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and
4 councillors ; and unites ^\-ith Stiklixg, Dunfermline,
Inverkeithing, and Queensferry in returning a member
to parliament. The parliamentary constituency num-
bered 59 in 1882, when the annual value of real property
amounted to £1647, while the corporation revenue for
1881 was £51. Pop. (1851) 605, (1861) 517, (1871) 467,
(1881) 373. Houses (1881) 96 inhabited, 22 vacant.
The parish, containing also the villages of Blairburn,
Comrie, and Low Valleyfield, is bounded NW by Clack-
mannan, NE and E by Saline, Carnock, and Torrybnru
in Fife, S by the Firth of Forth, SAV and W by Tulli-
allan. Its utmost length, from N to S, is 4 miles ; its
breadth, from E to W, varies between If and 3| miles ;
and its area is 8949 acres, of which 1311^ are foreshore
and 54 water. The surface rises abruptly from the shore
to 250 feet above sea-level behind Low Valleyfield, and
undulates thence, in gentle inequalities, throughout
most of the parish, attaining^ 317 feet near Mounteclaret
in the N, but nowhere forming anything that deserves
to be called a hill. Bluther and Grange Burns are the
chief streams. The rocks are mainly carboniferous ;
but, with the exception of Blairhall, the once extensive
collieries are now too much exhausted to afibrd a profit-
able return. One pit near Culross Abbe}' House was
carried almost a mile beneath the Firth, communicating
there by a sea-sliaft with an insidated wharf for tiie
shii)ping of its coal ; and was reckoned one of the
greatest wonders in Scotland, but was drowned by the
great storm of Jlarch 1625. Tradition relates that
James VI., revisiting his native country in 1617, and
(lining at the Abbey House, expressed a desire to see
this mine ; that he was lirought by his host. Sir Gcorgfl
Bruce, to the said wharf ; and that, on seeing himself
surrounded by the waves, he raised his customary cry of
323
CULROY
'Treason.' 'Whereon Sir George, pointing to an elegant
pinnace moored at the wharf, offered him the choice of
going ashore in it, or of returning by the way he came ;
and "the King, preferring the shortest way, was taken
directly ashore, expressing much satisfaction at what he
had beheld (Forsyth's Beauties of Scotland, ISO.".). Iron-
stone occurs in thin seams between beds of clay slate,
in ililfereut places, though not plentifully enough to
defray the expense of working ; and a bed of limestone
18 feet thick is found in one place at an awkward inclina-
tion. Fire-clay also occurs, and has been used for pot-
tery. The soil, for the most part argillaceous, is mixed
in many places with sand, and rests commonly on
masses of sandstone or shale. Natives were Robert Pont
(1529-1606), churchman and senator of the College of
Justice; Henry Hunter, D.D. (1741-1802), a distin-
guished divine ; and Thomas Cochrane, tenth Earl of
Dundonald (1775-1860), author of Autobiograp/iij of a
Seaman. The principal mansions are Culross Abbey,
Culross Park, Valleyfield, Comrie Castle, Blair Castle,
Brankston Grange, Balgownie Lodge (old but modern-
ised), and DrxiMARLE Castle, whose ancient predecessor
was the traditional scene of the murder of l^ady MacdutF
and her children. Seven proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 5 of between £100 and £500,
and ItJ of from £20 to £50. In the presbytery of Dun-
fermline and synod of Fife, Culross has been a collegiate
charge since about 1640, when the town was at the
height of its prosperity ; the stipend of each minister
is on an average £200. Valuation (1871) £9328, 4s. 6d.,
(1882) £6855, lis. 7d. Pop. (1801) 1502, (1831) 1488,
(1861) 1423, (1S71) 1354, (1881) 1130.— Ord Sur., sh.
39, 1869. See The Legends and Commemorative Cele-
bratiois of St Kcntigem {Edinh. 1872); the Rev. A. W.
Hallen's ' Notes on the Secular and Ecclesiastical Anti-
quities of Culross,' in vol. xii. oi Frocs. Sac. Ants. Scotl.
(1878); and D. Beveridge's Culross and Tulliallan
(Edinb. 1882).
Culroy, a hamlet in Maybole parish, Ayrshire, 3 miles
N of Maybole town.
Culsahnond, a hamlet and a parish in Garioch district,
Aberdeenshire. The hamlet — a farm-house, the church,
and the manse — stands at 600 feet above sea-level, near
the left bank of the Ury, 4| miles NNE of its post-town
and station, Insch^ this being 27A miles NW of Aberdeen.
Containing also Colpy post-office hamlet, and bounded
N by Forgue, NE by Auchterless, E by Rayne, S by
Oyne, SW and W by Insch, the parish has an utmost
length from N to S of 5 miles, a varying width from E
to W of If and 3§ miles, and an area of 6995 acres,
of which 1 is water. The drainage is carried south-south-
ea-stward by the upper Ury; and the surface, sinking in
the S to 310 feet above sea-level, thence rises northward
to 431 feet at Little Ledikin, 521 near Mellenside, 607
at Fallow Hill, 1078 at the wooded Hill of Skares, and
1219 at the Hill of Tillymorgan. A fine blue slate was
quarried prior to 1860; and a vein of ironstone, extend-
ing across the parish from Rayne to Insch, was proved,
by specimens sent to Carron works, to contain a large
projiortion of good iron. A subterranean moss, in some
parts more than 8 feet deep, occurs on Pulquliitu farm ;
and a strong mineral spring, said to be beneficial in
scrofulous complaints, is at Saughen-loan. The soil is
mainly a yellowish clay loam, lighter and mixed with
fragments of slate on the uplands, and at Tillymorgan
giving place to moss and inferior clay. Plantations cover
a considerable area. Cairns were at one time numerous ;
two stone circles have left some traces on Colpy farm ;
two sculptured standing -stones (figured in l)r John
Stuart's great work, 1866) are on the lands of Newton ;
and stone coffins, flint implements, etc., have been
from time to time discovered. Newton and William-
stun are the principal mansions ; and 5 proprietors
hoM each an annual value of more, 3 of less, than
£100. Culsalmond is in the presbytery of Garioch
ami synod of Aberdeen ; the living is worth £220. The
parish church, an old building, was the scene of one of
tlio.-.e contests that led to tlic Disrupti(m ; and the
neighbouring Free church, Kariy Eiiglisii in style, with
324
CULTER
a tower, was erected in 1866 at a cost of £2000, its
predecessor from 1843 having been a mere wooden
shed, in the 'deep hollow of Caden.' There are also
an Independent church and Tillymorgan Episcopal
chapel (1851) ; whilst Culsalmond public school (re-
built 1876) and Tillymorgan Episcopal school, witii re-
spective accommodation lor 150 and 64 children, had
(1880) an average attendance of 100 and 43, and grants
of £61, 8s. and £33, 13s. 6d. Valuation (1881) £6415,
16s. 5d. Pop. (1801) 730, (1831) 1138, (1861) 1165,
(1871) 896, (1881) 828.— Ord Sur., sh. 86, 1876.
Culsh. See Deer, New.
Culter, a station, an estate, and a rivulet on the SE
border of Aberdeenshire. The station is on the Deeside
railway, within Peterculter parish, near the influx of
Culter rivulet to the river Dee, 1% miles WSW of Aber-
deen. The estate is mainly in Peterculter parish, partly
in Drumoak, and from the 13th century till 1726 be-
longed to a branch of the Cummings. Culter House
here, 1 mile NE of the station, is a large old mansion,
said to have been built by Sir Alexander Gumming, who,
in 1695, was created a Baronet, and whose son, Sir
Archibald (1700-75), for a time was ruler of the
Cherokees. It now is a seat of Rt. Wni. Duff, Esq. of
Fetteresso and Glassaugh, who, born in 1835, has sat
for Banfi'shire since 1861, and who owns 1588 acres in
the shire, valued at £1747 per annum. The rivulet,
rising on the W border of Cluny parish, meanders 10
miles eastward, through Cluny and on Cluny's boundaries
with Midmar and Edit ; expands into Loch Skene, on
the mutual boundary of Echt and Skene ; and proceeds
thence 4 miles south-eastward, partly on the same
boundary partly through Peterculter, to the Dee. Its
lower reaches, with features of lake and linn, steep
banks and wooded cliffs, bridges and mills, present a
series of romantic scenes. See Peterculter.
Culter, a village in the upper ward and the E of
Lanarkshire, and a parish partly also in Peeblesshire.
The village stands upon Culter Water, 2f miles SSW of
Biggar, and Ig mile SSE of Culter station on the
Peebles branch of the Caledonian, this lieing If mile W
by N of Symington Junction, and 17^ miles W by S of
Peebles. It chiefly consists of neat houses, embowered
among shrubs and trees ; at it are the Tmrish church, a
public school, and a post office under Biggar ; whilst a
Free church stands 1 mile to the N.
The ]iari.sli is bounded N by Biggar and Skirling, E
by the Killjucho and Glenholm portions of Broughtou,
SE by Drummelzier, SW by Crawford and Lamington,
and NW by Symington. In shape resembling a rude
triangle with southward apex, it has an utmost length
from N by W to S by E of 7| miles, an utmost breadth
from E to W of 3| miles, and an area of 11,932^ acres,
of which 48o are water, and 1713 belong to Peeblesshire,
being also, however, claimed for BiloI'GHTON'. The
Clyde winds 2| miles north-north-eastward along all
the Symington border ; and its affluent Culter Water,
formed by three head-streams in the southern extremity
of the parish, runs 6| miles northward and north-west-
ward, first through a narrow glen, where it makes some
romantic falls, and next across a finely- wooded, culti-
vated plain. The surface sinks near Culter station, at
the NW corner of the parish, to 665 feet above sea-
level, thence rising eastward to 1345 feet on the Har-
tree Ilills, and southward to 820 near Cornhill, 745 at
Highfield, 939 at Nether Hangingshaw, 1187 on Snaip
Hill, 1596 on Turkey Hill, 1880 on *Scawdmans Hill,
2087 on *King Bank Head, 1578 on Ward Law, 2454 on
*Culter Fell, 1769 on Woodycleuch Dod, 1679 on
Knock Hill, 1874 on Snowgill Hill, and 2141 on *Hill-
shaw Head, where asterisks mark those summits that
culminate on the Peeblesshire border. The northern
district, including the Peeblesshire section, comprises a
considerable jiortion of the broad dingle extending from
the Clyde in the neighbourhood of Symington eastward
to the lower reach of Biggar Water ; with its mansions,
lawns, and groves, it presents an aspect more like that
of a rich English level than like that of a Scottish hill
region. The southern district exhibits a striking con-
CULTERCULLEN
trast to the northern, a long range of green hills, partly
planted and parked, rising steeply from the plains and
gradually merging into heathy mountains, the ' divide '
between Clydesdale and Tweeddale. The rocks include
some Devonian conglomerate, but are mainly Silurian ;
whilst the soil over most of the lower grounds is a sandy
loam, in the eastern part of the Peeblesshire section
inclines to clay, and on the braes and hills is light and
dry. About one-third of the area is either regularly or
occasionally in tillage, and upwards of 400 acres are
under wood. The antiquities include live circular
camps, two tumuli, the remains of Cow Castle near the
eastern border, and, in the Peeblesshire portion, the site
of Hartree Tower. Culter Allers House, near the
village, a Scottish Baronial edifice of 1882, is the seat
of John Menzies Baillie, Esq. of Culter Allers (b. 1826 ;
siic. 1880), who owns 4648 acres in the shire, valued at
£2010 per annum ; and other mansions, separately
noticed, are Birthwood, Cornhill, Culter Mains, and Har-
tree. In all, 3 proprietors hold each an annual value of
more, and 4 of less, than £500. Culter is in the i)resby-
tery of Biggar and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; the
living is worth £290. The parish church, built in
1810, contains 300 sittings ; and the Free church,
dating from 1843, was restored in 1874 at a cost ex-
ceeding £900. The public school, with accommodation
for 89 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 66,
and a grant of £64, lis. Valuation (1882) £8941,
7s. 6d. , of which £2141, 14s. 6d. was in Peeblesshire.
Pop. (1801) 369, (1831) 497, (1861) 665, (1871) 593,
(1881) blL—Ord. Sur., sh. 24, 1864.
CultercuUen, a village, with a public school, in
Foveran parish, Aberdeenshire, 1| mile E by S of Udny
station, and 15 miles N by W of Aberdeen, under which
it has a post office.
Culter Mains, an estate, with a mansion, in Culter
parish, Lanarkshire, 3^ miles SW of Biggar.
Cultoquhey, an estate, with a mansion, on the W
border of Fowlis-Wester parish, Perthshire. The man-
sion stands 24 miles NE of Crietf, and is a gi'aceful
edifice in the Tudor style, after designs by Smirke.
The property of the Maxtones since 1410 and earlier,
the estate is now held by Jas. Maxtone Graham, Esq.
(b. 1819 ; sue. 1846), the thirteenth in unbroken male
descent, who assumed the name of Graham on succeed-
ing in 1859 to the lauds of Redgorton, and who owns
2519 acres in the shire, valued at £3117 per annum.
Cults, a parish of central Fife, containing to the "VV the
post-office village of Pitlessie, 4 J miles S W of Cupar and
2i E of its station and post-town, Ladybank, this being
28^ miles N by E of Edinburgh. Bounded N by Moni"
mail and Cupar, E by Ceres, S by Kettle, and W by
Kettle and CoUessie, it has an utmost length from N
to S of 2| miles, a varying width from E to W of 9
furlongs and 2| miles, and an area of 2925 acres, of
■which 95 lie detached, and 1 is water. The Eden winds
3 miles north-eastward along the CoUessie and Cupar
borders and through the interior ; where it quits the
parish in the furthest N, the surface sinks to close on
100 feet above sea-level, thence rising to 698 feet near
Brotus in the SW and 622 at Walton Hill, which latter,
however, culminates just within Ceres. The rocks are
chiefly carboniferous ; and sandstone and limestone are
extensively worked, whilst coal was at one time mined.
The soil, in the N, is a light brownish sand ; in the centre,
is chiefly a soft black loam ; on the sides and tops of the
hills, is a strong fertile clay. A fort on the western
slope of Walton Hill is the only antiquity of Cults,
whose greatest son was Scotland's greatest painter. Sir
David Wilkie (1785-1841), born in the simple manse.
His father was parish minister, and at the school here
Davie is said to have liked best ' to lie agroufo on the
grun wi' his slate and pencil,' at the church to have
sketched the portraits for 'Pitlessie Fair' (1804) and
the ' Village Politicians ' (1806). Crawford Piuury is
the chief mansion, and the Earl of Glasgow is chief pro-
prietor, 3 others holding each an annual value of
between £100 and £500, 1 of iVom £50 to £100, and 5 of
from £20 to £50. Giving off a portion to Springfield
CUMBERNAULD
quoad sacra parish. Cults is in the presbytery of Cupar
and synod of Fife ; the living is worth £210, The
church, 1 mile ENE of Pitlessie, was built in 1793, and,
as enlarged in 1835, contains 430 sittings ; the interior
is adorned with a noble piece of sculpture by Chantrey,
erected by Wilkie in memory of his parents. At
Pitlessie also are a U.P. church and Cults public school,
which, with accommodation for 150 children, had
(1880) an average attendance of 82, and a grant of £64,
17s. Valuation (1882) £6596, 17s. 8d. Pop. (1801)
699, (1831) 903, (1861) 800, (1871) 767, (1881) 704.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 40, 1867.
Cults, a hamlet in the Aberdeenshii-e section of
Banchory-Devenick parish, near the left bank of the
Dee, with a station on the Deeside railway, 4 miles
WSW of Aberdeen, under which it has a post and
telegraph office. At it are a Free church and an en-
dowed school ; and near it stands Cults House, whose
owner, Rt. Shirra-Gibb, Esq. (b. 1847 ; sue. 1880),
holds 981 acres in the shire, valued at £1669 per
annum. Two stone coffins, containing human remains,
were found a little to the N of this mansion in 1850 ;
and three large cairns are still on the estate.
Culvain, a summit, 3224 feet high, in Kilmallie parish,
Inverness-shire, 2^ miles SSE of the head of Loch Ar-
chaig.
Culzean. See Colzean.
Cumbernauld, a thriving town and a parish in the
detached section of Dumbartonshire. The town is
situated on the high road from Glasgow to Edinbiu'gh
through Falkirk, 1^ mile N of Cumbernauld station on
the Caledonian, and 2 miles SW of Castlecary station on
the North British, this being 15i miles NE of Glasgow,
6i W by S of Falkirk, and SIJ W by N of Edinburgh.
A picturesque old place, sheltered to E and SE by the
grounds of Cumbernauld House, it was created a burgh
of barony in 1649, and has a post office under Glasgow,
a branch of the Royal Bankj a local savings' bank, 2
chief inns, gas-works, many new handsome villas, and a
cattle-fair on the second Thursday of May. The parish
church here is an old building, containing 660 sittings ;
the Free church dates from 1826, having belonged to
the Original Secession, but has been lately almost rebuilt ;
and there is also a new U.P. church. Haudloom
weaving of checks and other striped fabrics is still
carried on, but mining and quarrying are the staple
industry. Pop. (1861) 1561, (1871) 1193, (1881) 1064.
The parish, contahiing also the village of Condohrat,
was disjoined from Kirkintilloch in 1649, under the
name of Easter Lenzie. It is bounded NW by Kilsyth,
NE by Denny, and E by Falkirk, all three in Stirling-
shire ; S by New Iilonkland, in Lanarkshire ; and W by
Kirkintilloch. Its utmost length, from E to W, is
7^ miles ; its utmost breadth, from N to S, is 4 miles ;
and its area is 11,804 acres, of which 168J are water.
Fannyside Loch, 2g miles SE of the town, is the only
one that has not been drained of several lakes ; it is 6|
furlongs long and from 1 to 2 furlongs broad. The
new-born Kelvin traces 3| miles of the north-western,
and Luggie Water 4| miles of the southern, border;
whilst the former throughout is also closely followed by
4 J miles of the Forth and Clyde Canal. The surface is
prettily diversified with gentle acclivities and fertile
vales, sinking in the AV to close on 200 feet above sea-
level, and rising eastward to 482 feet at Croy Hill, 513
near Carrickstone, 528 near West Forest, and 580 near
Garbet on Fannyside Muir, which, yielding now nothing
but gorse and heather, was, do^vn to a comparatively
recent period, occupied by a renmant of the ancient
Caledonian Forest. Here, till at least 1571, the savage
white cattle still ran wild, since in that year a writer
complains of the havoc comuutted by the King's party
on the deer in the forest of Cumbernauld and its ' quhit
ky and buUis, to the gryt destructione of polecie and
hinder of the commonweil. For that kynd of ky and
bullis hes bein keipit this money yeiris in the said
forest ; and the like was not mentenit in ony uther
partis of the He of Albion.' The rocks are partly erup-
tive, partly belong to the Carboniferous Limestone
o25
CUMBRAE, GREAT, BIG, OR MEIKLE
Bcries. A colliery is at Xetherwood ; ironstone has been
mined to a snialfextent by the Cairon Company ; and
limestone, brick-clay, sandstone, and trap are all of them
largely worked, the sandstone for building, the trap for
road-metal, paving, and rough masonry. The soil
varies in quality, but is ehielly a deep clay of tolerable
fertility. Fully eleven-sixteenths of the entire area are
under the plough ; woods may cover one-sixteenth more ;
and the rest is pastoral or waste. Antoninus' AVall,
ti-aversing all the northern border, nearly in the line of
the canal, has left some scanty remains ; and a Roman
road, leading southward from Castlecary, is partially
traceable on Fannyside Muir. On the standing-stone
of Carrickstone Bruce is said by tradition to have
planted his standard, when marshalling his forces on
the eve of the battle of Bannockburn ; and pre-Reforma-
tion chapels are thought to have existed at Achenbee,
Achenkill, Chapelton, Kildrum, Kilmuir, and Croy.
Cumbernauld House, standing amid an extensive park,
i mile ESE of the town, superseded an ancient castle,
wliich, with its barony, passed about 1306 from the
Comyns to Sir Robert Fleming, whose grandson. Sir
iMalcolm, was lord of both Biggar and Cumbernauld ;
it is now a seat of John William Burns, Esq. of Kilma-
hew (b. 1837 ; sue. 1871), owner of 1670 acres in the
shire, valued at £3394 per annum. Other mansions
are Dullatur House, Nether Croy, and Greenfaulds ; and
4 proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 16 of between £100 and £500, 12 of from £50
to £100, and 35 of from £20 to £50. Taking in quoad
sacra a small portion of Falkirk parish, Cumbernauld is
in the presbytery of Glasgow and synod of Glasgow and
Ayr ; the living is worth £380. Three public schools —
Cumbernauld, Condorrat, and Arns— and Drumglass
Church school, with respective accommodation for 350,
229, 50, and 195 children, had (18S0) an average at-
tendance of 225, 98, 30, and 171, and grants of £230,
6s. 6d., £90, 3s., £41, 5s., and £1G2, 8s. 6d. Valuation
(1860) £15,204, (1882) £25,098, 15s. Pop. (1801) 1795,
(1831) 3080, (1861) 3513, (1871) 3602, (1881) 4270.—
Old. Sur., sh. 31, 1867.
Cumbrae, Great, Big, or Meikle, an island of Bute-
shire in the Firth of Clyde, 2^ miles E of Bute at the
narrowest, and 1| mile WSW of Largs in Ayrshire.
Resembling a pointed tooth in outline, with Farland
and Portachur Points for fangs, and between them the
town of Millport on isleted Millport Bay, it has an
utmost length of 3| miles from NNE to SSW, viz., from
Tomont End to Portachur Point ; an utmost width,
from E to W, of 2 miles ; a circumference of 10^ miles ;
and an area of 3120^ acres. A road has been lately
formed right round the island, whose immediate sea-
board is a low, flat beach, backed generally by steepish
slopes, and, to the SE, by bolder but verdure-clad cliffs
that rise to 302 feet within 3 furlongs of the shore, and
present in the Lion Rock a quasi-miniature of Arthur's
Seat. The interior is hilly, culminating at 417 feet
towards the centre of the island, to the W of three little
loclis, one of which sends off a rivulet southward to
ilillport Bay. The principal rock is Old Red sandstone,
disru2)ted and overlaid by various traps. The sand-
stone is similar to that of the mainlancl, from which it
appears to have been severed by sea erosion ; the traps
are chiefly greenstone, and in the form of dykes have
strangely altered the sandstone strata, fusing and recon-
.solidating them into a dark quartz -like substance.
Many of the dykes, having better withstood the de-
uudating influence of air and water, stand out boldly
from the sandstone ; and two especially, to the SE, look
like Cyclojjean walls, 100 and 205 feet long, and 40 and
75 feet high. These are deemed, in the island folklore,
to be remains of a huge bridge, reared by witchcraft
ami devilry to link Cumbrae to the Ayrshire coast. The
soil is varied. On the higher parts of the island it is
ligiit, gravelly, and thin, bedded on moss, and covered
witii heath ; in some of the valleys is a fertile loam, and
produces excellent crops ; along the E coast is light and
sandy ; and in the S abounds in marl. Draining, sea-
weed manuring, and liming have effected great improve-
826
CUMLODDEN
ments ; and wheat, early potatoes, and turnips are very
extensively gro\\"n. Most of the farms carry .stocks
of from 20 to 40 dairy cows. The climate is both
healthy and pleasant, less moist than that of Arran
or the mainland. Included once in the Hebrides,
Cumbrae was held by the Norsemen ; and, after
its cession to Scotland, belonged for some time to
the Stewarts, who later mounted the throne. A cairn
on the NE coast and the remains of Billikellet are
the only antiquities, as no traces are left of the camp
that Haco is said to have formed on the eve of the battle
of Largs. In 1609 we find the captain of Dumbarton
Castle complaining that ' Robert Huntar of Huntarston
and Thomas Boyd, provost of Irwyn, had gone to the
Isle of Comra, and tane away all the hawks thereon,'
which hawks, it appears, were a famous breed belonging
to the king. The Garrison is the only mansion, and
its owner, the Earl of Gla.sgow, divides the island
with the Marquis of Bute ; but 7 feuars hold each an
annual value of between £100 and £200, 30 of from £50
to £100, and 59 of from £20 to £50. By itself Great
Cumbrae is a parish in the presbytery of Greenock and
s}'nod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth £160.
Places of worship are noticed under Millport ; and a
public school, with accommodation for 300 children, had
(1880) an average attendance of 185, and a grant of
£156, 14s. Valuation (1882) £16,910. Pop. (1801)
506, (1831) 912, (1861) 1236, (1871) 1613, (1881) 1856.
—Orel. Sur., sh. 21, 1870. See D. Landsborough's
Excursioiis to Arran and the tivo Cumbraes (Edinb. 1851),
and Arch. M'Neilage, ' On the Agi-iculture of Buteshire '
in Trans. Highl. and Ag. Soc, 1881.
Cumbrae, Little, an island of Buteshire,* 1^ mile
SSW of Millport, and about the same distance E of the
southern extremity of Bute and W of the Ayrshire
coast. Triangular in shape, with base to SW and apex
to NNE, it has an utmost length and breadth of If
mile and 7f furlongs, whilst its area is estimated at 700
acres. The surface rises, in a series of terraces, to 409
feet above sea-level toward the middle of the island,
and, with exception of a few patches of potatoes and
ordinary garden produce, is all wild moorland, burrowed
by rabbits, and grazed by scattered sheep. The geolo-
gical formation is Secondary trap, resting on a sub-
stratum of Old Red sandstone. A circular lighthouse,
30 feet high, the earliest but one in Scotland, was built
on the highest point about 1750, and commands a mag-
nificent panoramic view ; but has been superseded by
another lighthouse on the western coast, which was
built in 1826, raises its lantern 106 feet above high
water, and shows a fixed light, visible at a distance of
15 miles. A strong old tower, on an islet oft" the E
coast, believed to have been erected as a watch-post
against the Scandinavian rovers, was surrounded by a
rampart and a fosse, and accessible only by a draw-
bridge. It belonged to the Eglinton family, who still are
proprietors of the island ; gave refuge, in times of trouble,
to that family's friends ; was surprised and burned by
the troops of Oliver Cromwell ; and now is roofless and
dilapidated. On the NE slope of the hill are the tomb
and ruined chapel of St Vey. Valuation (1882) £308.
Pop. (IS.",!) 17, (1861) 20, (1871) 11, (1881) 23.
Cuminestown, a straggling village in Monqnhitter
parish, N Aberdeenshire, 6 miles ESE of Turrift', under
which it has a post office, with money order and savings'
bank departments. Founded in 1763 by Cumine of
Auchry, it contains a branch of the Aberdeen Town and
County Bank and the plain Episcopal chapel of St Luke
(1844 ; 130 sittings), whilst adjoining the parish church
and Free church of Monqnhitter. A fair is held at it on
the Thursday after 27 AprU. Pop. (1841) 477, (1861)
459,(1871)572,(1881)565.
Cumlodden, a quoad sacra parish in Glassary and
Inverary jiarishcs, Argyllshire, on the NW side of Loch
Fyne, its church (1841 ; 300 sittings) standing 1 mile
WSW of Furnace and 8 miles SW of its post-town,
Inverary. Constituted in 1853, it is in the presbytery
* Little Cumbrae is assigned in the census to West Kilbride, but
to Ardrossan in the Ordnance maps and valuation rollM.
CUMLODEN
of Inverarj' and synod of Argyll ; the minister's stipend
is £120. Two public schools, Cunilodden and Furnace,
wdth respective accommodation for 78 and 110 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 48 and 78, and
grants of £23, 10s. "2d. and £78, 6s. Pop. of q. s.
parish (1871) 826, (1881) 837 ; of registration district of
Cumloddcn and Minard (1881) 1142.
Cumloden, a summer residence of the Earl of Gal-
loway in Minnigatf parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, pictur-
esquely seated upon Penkill Water, 2 miles NE of
Newton-Stewart.
Cummertrees, a village and a coast parish of Annandale,
Dumfriesshire. The village stands, f mile inland, on
Pow Water, near Cummertrees station on the Glasgow
and South- Western railway, llf miles ESE of Dumfries,
and 3J W of Annan, under which it has a post office.
The parish, containing also the village of Powfoot,
and comprising, since 1609, the ancient piarish or chapelry
of Trailtrow, is bounded N by St ]\lungo and Hoddam, E
by Annan, S by the Sol way Firth, and W by Ruthwell
and Dalton. Its utmost length, from N to S, is o\ miles ;
its breadth, from E to W, varies between 2^ and 4g
miles ; and its area is 11,747^ acres, of which 2206| are
foreshore and 75^ water. The river Annan winds 2^
miles E by S along all the northern boundary ; and Pow
Water, entering from Ruthwell, flows through the
interior south-eastward to the Firth, which here at high
water has a breadth of 4 to 6 miles, at low of only 3 to 7
fui'longs. At flow of tide, its waste of level sand is
swept by the Solway's celebrated ' bore,' which, rushing
upwards at the speed of 8 or 10 miles an hour, roars
with a tumult heard overfall the parish, and sometimes 12
or 15 miles further northward. The seaboard, 3g miles
long, is low and sandy, in the E alone attaining to 65
feet above sea-level ; but, however featureless by nature,
it has its interest as one of the scenes in Scott's novel of
Redgauntlct. Inland the ground rises slowly northward
to 87 feet near Hurkledale, 160 at Muirhouse, 183 at
Upper Mains, 242 near Norwood, and 350 on Repentance
Hill, from which again it descends rather rapidly to
less than 100 feet along the Annan. The rocks are
mainly Devonian. Limestone, 30 feet thick and contain-
ing 96 per cent, of carbonate of lime, is extensively
worked at Kelhead ; and sandstone has been got from
two quarries. The soil is sandy along the coast ; in
some of the central parts is a fertile loam incumbent
on limestone ; and northward is loam incumbent on
sandstone, whilst elsewhere it ranges from a thin wet
cla}'' incumbent on hard till, and requiring much manure
and labour, to reclaimed bog, drained and improved at
great expense. About 6200 acres are regularly or
occasionally in tillage, and 1300 under wood. In a
field called Bruce's Acres, on the farm of Broom,
Robert Bruce is said to have sustained a severe repulse
from the English. Hoddam Castle and the Tower of
Repentance, the chief antiquities, are separately noticed,
as also are the mansions of Kinmount and Murray-
thwaite. The Marquis of Queensberry is much the largest
proprietor, 5 holding each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 1 of between £100 and £500, and 2 of from
£20 to £50. Giving off a small portion to Bridekirk
quoad sacra parish, Cummertrees is in the presbytery
of Annan and synod of Dumfries ; the living is worth
£200. The church, which was founded by Robert
Bruce has been repeatedly rebuilt and enlarged, and
now contains 450 sittings. Two public schools, Cum-
mertrees and Trailtrow, with respective accomm odation
for 130 and 44 children, had (1880) an average attend-
ance of 86 and 32, and grants of £69, lis. and £39, 10s.
Valuation (1882) £9607, 13s. 5d. Pop. of civil parish,
(1801) 1633, (1831) 1407, (1861) 1232, (1871) 1116,
(1881) 1092; oi quoad sacra parish (1871) 1072, (1881)
1068.— Orr/. Sur., shs. 6, 10, 1863-64.
Cumming's Camp. See Bourtie.
Cuinming's Castle. See Dalsw^inton.
Cummingstown, a straggling coast village in Duffus
parish, Elginshire, 1 J mile E of Burghead. Pop. (1851)
155, (1871) 2SS, (1881)244.
Cumminstown. See Cuminestown.
CUMNOCK, NEW
Cumnock (Celt, cuwar, 'meeting,' and oich, 'water'),
a town of Ayrshire, chiefly in Old Cumnock parish, but
partly also in Auchinleck. It lies in a sheltered hollow,
362 feet above sea-level, on the left bank of winding
Lugar Water, joined here by Glaisnock Burn, 5 furlongs
WSW of one station on the main line of the Glasgow
and South-Western, and ^ mile N by W of another on
its Ayr and Cumnock section, by rail being 15f miles
SE of Kilmarnock, 49i S of Glasgow (39;^ via Barrhead),
33 SW of Carstairs, 6"!^ SW by W of Edinburgh, 42|
NW of Dumfries, and 17:^ E by S of Ayr. With central
square, three spacious streets, and a number of narrow
lanes, it presents a pjleasant, well-to-do appearance, and
has a post office, with money order, savings' bank, and
telegraph departments, branches of the Bank of Scot-
land, the Clydesdale Bank, and the Royal Bank, 15 in-
surance agencies, 3 hotels, a gas company, an athenaium
(1792), a fine cemetery, and 2 Saturday papers —
the Cumnock Express (1866) and the Liberal Cum-
nock Ncics (1880). Thursday is market-day, and
fairs are held on the Thursday in February after Old
Candlemas (cattle and horses), the Thursday after 6
March (race and hiring), the Wednesday after 6 June
(cattle), the Wednesday after 13 July (cattle and hiring),
and the Wednesday after 27 October (fat stock). The
snuff'-box manufacture, so famous 50 years since, is
wholly extinct, transferred to Mauchline ; and though
there are two establishments for the weaving of tweeds
and other woollen stutts, a pottery, and two dairy and
agricultural machine works, mining is now the staple
industry, the neighbourhood abounding in coal and
blackband ironstone. The central square was formerly
the churchyard, and the present churchyard was once the
place of execution ; it contains the graves of two Cove-
nanting worthies, shot here in 1685, and also the ashes
of the Prophet Peden (1626-86), which, buried in Auchin-
leck kirkyard, were forty days after lifted by dragoons,
and reinterred at the foot of the Cumnock gallows. The
parish church, rebuilt in 1867, is a good Second Pointed
structure, with 1100 sittings, stained-glass windows, a
turret clock, and a fine organ, the last erected in 1881.
There are also a Free church, a U.P. church with 900
sittings, a new Congregational church (1882) on the
Auchinleck side of the Lugar, and a handsome Roman
Catholic church (1881-82). The public school, too,
built since the passing of the Education Act, is a very
elegant and commodious edifice, among the finest in the
South of Scotland. Having adopted the Lindsay Act
in 1868, Cumnock is governed by a senior magistrate
and 8 other police commissioners. Its municipal con-
stituency numbered 472 in 1882, when the burgh valua-
tion amounted to £8043. Pop. (1801) 1798, (1851) 2395,
(1861) 2316, (1871) 2903, (1881) 3334, of whom 93 were
in Auchinleck parish. — Orel. Sur., sh. 14, 1863.
Cumnock, New, a village and a parish of Kyle district,
E Ayrshire. Nearly adjoining Afton-Bridgend, Path-
head, and Mansfield, the village stands, 600 feet above
sea-level, on the right bank of the Nith, at the influx of
Afton Water, and has a station on the Glasgow and
South-Western railway, b\ miles SE of Cumnock, and
21| SE of Kilmarnock. At it are a post office, with
money order, savings' bank, and telegraph departments,
branches of the Bank of Scotland and the Royal Bank,
9 insurance agencies, 3 chief inns, and a parish library
(1828) ; a fair is held here on 18 May.
The parish, containing also the villages or hamlets of
Afton-Bridgend, Pathhead, Mansfield, Castle, Connell
Park, Craigbank, and Dalleagles, formed till 1650 part
of Old Cuninoek. It is bounded N by Old Cumnock
and Auchinleck ; E by Kirkconnel and Sanquhar, in
Dumfriesshire ; SE and S by Dairy and Carspliairn, in
Kirkcudbrightshire ; SW by Dalmellington ; and NW
by Ochiltree. Its greatest length is 15 miles from ENE
to WSW, viz., from the Dumfriesshire border near
Glengaber Hill, to the Dalmellington boundary near
Benbain ; its breadth varies between 3| furlongs and
10| miles ; and its area is 48,357^ acres, of which 261J
are water. The Nith, rising in the SW corner, winds
\b'i miles northward, north-eastward, and eastward
3?7
CUMNOCK, OLD
througli the interior, its left bank bcinj:; closely followed,
from the village downwards, by the Glasgow and South-
western railway ; of its numerous feeders here, the
principal is Aftox Water, flowing 9 miles northward
from tlie southern extremity of the parish. The drain-
age goes thus mainly to the Solway, but partly also to
tiie Firth of Clyde, as Black and Guelt "Waters, sub-
allluents of the river Ayr, trace most of the Ochiltree
and Auchinleck boundaries. North-westward of the
village are three little lakes in a row, Meikle Creocli
Loch (3 X 2f furl.), Little Creoch Loch (3 x 1 J furl. ), and
Klack Loch (2 x 1 furl. ). The surface sinking along the
shallow and sluggish Nitli to less than 600 feet above
sea-level, is everywhere hilly, mountainous in the S.
Chief elevations to the left of the Nith from its source
are Prickeny Hill (1G76 feet). Black Hill (1076), Cars-
gailocb Hill (1176), CarnivanHill (1061), High Polquheys
(1027), *Craigdully Hill (1352), Cuiisanx-one Hill
(1547), Clocklowie Hill (1441), and *Niviston Hill
(1507), where asterisks mark those summits that cul-
minate on the confines of the parish ; to the right rise
Enoch Hill (1S65), Benty Cowan (1560), Milray Hill
(1724), Ashmark Hill (1218), Auchincally Hill (1662),
Struthers Brae (1778), Wedder Hill (1961) Dalhanna Hill
(1177), Blackwood Hill (898), Hare Hill or the Knipe
(1950), Bl.^ckckaig Hill (2229), *Blacklarg Hill (2231),
*Alwhat (2063), and *Albang (2100). The rocks in the S
are chiefly Siluiian, in the N carboniferous. Limestone
and sandstone, the latter coarse-grained and yellowish
white in hue, have both been worked in several quarries ;
and coal, partly cannel, partly sj^lint, is mined at Afton,
Bank, Knockshinnock, Lanemark, Pathhead, and South
Boig. Galena has been got in considerable quantities on
the Afton estate ; and ironstone occurs plentifully in
bands and balls. The soil of the Silurian tracts is
chiefly of a gravelly nature, and that of the Carboni-
ferous tracts is generally argillaceous. Fully 6000
acres have been reclaimed from a waste or almost un-
profitable condition since 1818 ; and now about 9300
acres are either regularly or occasionally in tillage, whilst
some 270 are under wood. An ancient tumulus on
Polquhaise farm was found, on removal, to contain a
sarcophagus and fragments of human bones. One
baronial fortalice stood near the village, another at
Blackci'aig, and a third near the source of the Nith ; but
all have disappeared and left no vestige. In March 1882,
at Craigs, near the foot of Blaekcraig, in lonely Glen
Alton, a shepherd found 40 gold and over 140 silver
coins of James V. ilansfield House, Lochside House,
Craigdarroch, and Bank House are the principal man-
sions ; and 10 proprietors hold each an annual value of
i;500 and upAvards, 5 of between £100 and £500, 3 of
from £50 to £100, and 20 of from £20 to £50. New
Cumnock is in the presbytery of Ayr and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth £250. The
parish church, between Afton-Bridgend and New Cum-
nock villages, was built in 1832, and is a handsome
edifice, containing 1000 sittings. There are also three
Free churches — New Cumnock, Afton, and Bank ; and
tliree public schools — Bank, Dalleagles, and New Cum-
nock — with respective accommodation ibr 160, 85, and
450 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 182,
75, and 295, and grants of £127, lis., £30, 18s. 4d.,
and £249, 18s. Valuation (1860) £17,496, (1882)
£34,592, 13s. 6d., including £2934 for railway. Pop.
(1801) 1381, (1831) 2184, (1861) 2891, (1871) 3434,
(1881) Z78\. —Ord. Sitr., shs. 15, 14, 1864-63.
Cumnock, Old, a {)arish in the E of Kyle district, Ayr-
shire. It contains the station and most of the town of
Cumnock, besidesasmall partof Lr(!AulK(iN-wouKs,and
formed one narish with New Cumnock till 1650, when,
being curtailed by the separation of New Cumnock, it
changed its name from Cunmock to Old Cumnock. It
is bounded N and NE by Auchinleck, E and S by New
Cumnock, and W by Ochiltree. Its utmost length, from
E to \V, is 9^ miles ; its Ijreadth, from N to S, varies
between 9 furlongs and 4^ miles; and its area isl4,20!i^
acres, of which 69.^ are water. All the Auchinleck
border is traced, first, Viy Guelt Water, running 2S miles
328
CUNNINGHAME
north-westward to Glenraore Water ; next, by Glen-
more Water, running 4g miles west-north-westward to
form Lugar Water ; lastly, by the Lugar itself, wind-
ing 7^ miles west-by-southward : and a number of burns
flow northward through the interior to these three
streams. In the NW, near Pennyfadzeoch, where the
Lugar quits the parish, the surface sinks to close on 300
feet above sea-level, thence rising to 693 near Whitehill,
1198 at Hogh Mount, 764 near Sliield, 1081 at Avisyard
Hill, 1034 at Airds Hill, and 1352 at CraigdoUyeart
Hill in the SE. The scenery, tame in places, in most
presents a pleasing, finely cultivated aspect, and along
the Lugar is often highly picturesque. The roc;ks are
chiefly carboniferous. Limestone and sandstone, both of
excellent quality, are worked ; and bituminous and
anthracitic coal is mined. The soil by the Liigar is
frequently a fine alluvium, and elsewhere is mostly of a
clayey nature, incumbent on strong till ; but on the
higher lands is mossy. About 2000 acres are moorland,
500 or so are planted, and the rest are all under the
plough. The chief antiquities are ruins of Ferringzean
Castle within the policies of Dumfries House, traces of
Boreland Castle on the S side of the parish, vestiges of
a small pre-Reformation chapel on the farm of Chapel-
house, and graves or memorials of several martyrs of the
Solemn League and Covenant. Hugh Logan, ' the
Laird of Logan ' and celebrated wit of Ayrshire, resided
on Logan estaite ; and James Taylor, the associate of
Miller of Dalswinton in the invention of steam-navigation,
superintended the mines on that of Dumfries House
about the close of the 18th century. ]\Iansions, all
separately noticed, are Dumfries House, Garrallan, Glais-
nock, and Logan ; and 6 proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 7 of between £100 and £500,
21 of from £50 to £100, and 28 of Irom £20 to £50.
Old Cumnock is in the presbytery of Ayr and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth £315, or £365
with voluntary supplement from heritors. Garrallan
public, Old Cumnock public, and Old Cumnock Roman
Catholic school, with respective accommodation for 100,
600, and 216 children, had (1880) an average attendance
of 93, 574, and 140 children, and grants of £75, 3s.,
£471, 9s., and £128, 3s. 6d. Valuation (1860) £14,424,
(1882) £27,225, 12s. 9d., including £4899 for railways.
Pop. (1801) 1991, (1831) 2763, (1861) 3721, (1871) 4041,
(1881) 4860.— 6')-d Sur., shs. 14, 15, 1863-64.
Cumrue, Loch. See Kirkmichael, Dumfriesshire.
Cumston. See Compstone.
Cunnigar, an artificial mound in Midcalder parish,
Edinburghshire, between Alidcalder village and the
river Almond. On it witches are said to have been
burned in bygone days.
Cunninghame, a poor-law combination and a terri-
torial district in Ayrshire. The combination includes
only part of the district, yet extends southward into
Kyle, comprisingthe parishes of Ardrossan, Beith, Dairy,
Dreghorn, Dundonald, Dunlop, Galston, Irvine, Kil-
birnie. West Kilbride, Kilmarnock, Kilwinning, Loudon,
Stevenston, Stewartou, and Symington. The poorhouse
contains accommodation for 279 inmates. Pop. (1871)
102,015, (1881) 106,014.— The territorial district is the
northern one of the three districts into which Ayrshire is
divided. It comprises the parishes of Ardrossan, Beith,
Dairy, Dreghorn, part of Dunlop, Fcnwick, Irvine, Kil-
birnie. West Kilbride, Kilmarnock, Kilmaurs, Kilwin-
ning, Largs, Loudon, Stevenston, and Stewarton ; and
contains the towns and villages of Ardrossan, Saltcoats,
Beith, Dairy, Dunlop, Fenwick, Irvine, KilViirnie, Glen-
garnock. West Kilbride, Kilmarnock, Kilmaurs, Cross-
house, Kilwinning, Largs, Fairlie, Newmilns, Darvel,
Stevenston, and Stewarton. It is bounded N and NE
by Renfrewshire, E by Lanarkshire, S by the river
Irvine, which separates it from Kyle, SW and W by
the Firth of Clyde. Its greatest length from N W to SE
is 29i miles, and its greatest breadth in the oj)posite
direction 12;i' miles. The surface is jdeasantly diversi-
lii'd witli liill and dale, and rises, in the N W, into con-
siderable heights, but cannot be said to have any
mountains. The chief streams, besides the Irvine, are
CUNNINGHAMHEAD
the Rye, the Caaf, the Garnock, the Dusk, the Lugton,
the Auiiick, the Fenwick, and the Craufurdlarul or
Kilmarnock. The only considerable sheet of fresh
water is Kilbirnie Loch. Trap rocks constitute most of
the hills, but carboniferous rocks prevail elsewhere, and
are rich in sandstone, limestone, ironstone, and coal.
Extensive iron-works are at Dairy and Glengarnock, and
very productive coal mines are in various places. The
dairy husbandry rose to high perfection in Dunlop,
Beith, and Stewarton in the latter part of last century, and
it has ever since maintained a high character thi'ougliout
most of the district. The ancient family of De Morville,
the constables of Scotland, were in the r2th and 13th cen-
turies proprietors of almost all the land, and they are
supposed to have had their residence at either Glengar-
nock or Southannan. Many other families subsequently
became proprietors ; and not a few of them, particularly
those of Eglinton, Gleneairn, and Loudon, took a lead-
ing part in the affairs of the kingdom during its most
agitated times. The district appears to have been at
one time under the control of the corporation of Irvine,
and, for a long period prior to the abolition of feudal
jurisdictions, it formed a bailiwick under the Earls
of Eglinton. Valuation (1882) £434,248, including
£38,512 for railways. Pop. (1831) 63,453, (1861) 95,593,
(1881) 105,231. See Ayrshire and Cunninghame,
Topographised by Timothy Pont, A.M., 1604-8, %oith
Continuations and illustrative Notices by the late James
Dobie of Crummock (1876).
Cunninghamhead, a mansion in Dreghorn parish,
Ayrshire, near Cunnmghamhead station on the Glasgow
and South-Western railway, this being 4 miles WNW
of Kilmarnock. Its owner, Richard Kerr, Esq. (b.
1845 ; sue. 1853), holds 560 acres in the shire, valued
at £1440 per annum.
Cunninghar. See Tillicoultry.
Cunning or Cunnan, a holm of about 50 acres at the
right side of the mouth of the river Doon, in Ayrshii-e.
It formerly lay on the left side of the river, but came to
be on the right side in consequence of the river altering
its course ; and, though now in Kyle district, it belongs
to the Carrick parish of Maybole.
Cunningsburgh. See Conningsburgh and DuN-
ROSSNESS.
Cunnoquhie, an estate, with a handsome modern
mansion, in Monimail parish, Fife, 1 mile NE of Moni-
mail church, and 4^ miles W by N of Cupar. Its
owner, Mrs W. Pitcairn, holds 561 acres in the shire,
valued at £937 per annum.
Cunzierton, a hill (1100 feet) in Oxnam parish, Rox-
burghshire, 6^ miles ESE of Jedburgh. It is crowned
witb a large, double-trenched, ancient Caledonian camp ;
and is engirt, at about 150 feet from the summit, with
a defensive mound.
Cupar, the north-western of the four divisions of Fife,
consisting chiefly of the upper and middle basin of the
Eden, and of the parts of the seaboard of the Firth of
Tay from the boundary with Perthshire to a point a few
hundred yards W of the original Tay Bridge, and nearly
opposite Dundee. It comprises the parishes of Abdie,
Auchtermuchty, Balmerino, Ceres, Collessie, Creich,
Cults, Cupar, Dairsie, Dunbog, Falkland, Flisk, Kettle,
KUmany, Logie, Monimail, Moonzie, Newburgh, and
Strathmiglo, with parts of Abernethy and Arngask. Its
length north-eastward is about 17^ miles ; and its
breadth is about 10 miles. See Fife.
Cupar or Cupar-Fife, a town and a parish of central
Fife. A royal and parliamentary burgh, the political
capital of the shire, and a seat of considerable trade, the
town stands 100 feet above sea-level, amid undulating and
richly-wooded environs, mainly on the left bank of the
Eden. By road it is 12g miles S of Dundee, 10 W by S
of St Andrews, and 30 NNE of Edinburgh ; whilst by
the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee section of the North
British it is 5^ miles NE of Ladybank Junction, 25^
ESE of Perth, 4"4 ENE of Stirling, 13;| NNE of Thornton
Junction, 29 NE of Dunfermline, \i^ NNE of Edin-
burgh, llf SSW of Tayport, and 16^ S of Dundee via
the new Tay Bridge. It had a royal charter from
CUPAR
David II. in 1363, but prior to that appears to have
been a royal burgh, and has made some figure in history.
A castle which stood on the eminence now called School
Hill, but which has utterly disapjjearod, was the seat of
the Macdulfs, Earls of Fife, who first are heard of in the
reign of David I. (1124-53). Almost a hundred years
earlier, according to Leighton's Fife Illustrated, ' when
the castle of Cupar was the residence of Macduif, the
lord or Maormore of Fife, it was the scene of that horrid
tragedy, the murder of his wife and children by Macbeth,
of which Shakespeare has made such a beautiful use in
his Y>l-a,y oi Macbeth.' But Skene has shown that the
whole well-known tale of Macduff, ' Thane of Fife ' — a
title unknown to history — appears first in the Chronicle
of Fordun and his interpolator Bower, i.e., belongs to
the 14th and 15th centuries {Celtic Scotland, iii. 303-306,
1880). The court of the Stewartry of Fife was lield
at this castle till the forfeiture of Albany, Earl of Fife,
in 1425, when it was transferred to Falkland. The
proverbial expression, ' He that will to Cupar maun to
Cupar,' alludes to the times when Cupar was the seat
of the ancient courts of justice for Fife, and signifies
much the same as ' A wilful man must have his own
way.' Theatrical representations, called Mysteries or
Moralities, professing to serve purposes such as now are
served by at once the pulpit and the press, were ex-
hibited on the northern slopes of the School Hill, then
called the Playfield, for many ages till the Reformation
— among them Sir David Lindsay's Satyre of the Thrie
Estaitis (1535), that scathing attack on the priests,
which has been termed ' by far the greatest interlude ir
English literature.' Whether Sir David was born in
Monimail at the Mount or in East Lothian is a moot
question, but there is no doubt that the Mount was his
property and frequent residence, and that he sat for Cupar
in the parliaments of 1542 and 1543. Many of the
kings and princes of Scotland, including nearly all the
Jameses, Mary of Guise, Queen Maiy, and Charles II. ,
visited the town, and were entertained by its magistrates,
Charles getting ' some desert to his foure houres in the
Tolbooth, and a musicke song or two from Mr Andro
Andersone, scholemaster ther for the tyme,' 6 July 1650.
John Knox, in 1560, preached here to the Lords of the
Congregation ; and a noted conference was held in the
previous year, on Tarvit Hill, \% mile to the S, between
the Congregation and Mary of Guise, the Queen Regent.
The Rev. William Scot, who wrote the Jpologetical
Narration of the State of the Kirk of Scotland, was
minister of Cupar from 1595 till 1642, and at his own
expense erected the spire of the parish church, which
still exists. A handsome mural tombstone to his memory
is still to be seen in the churchyard, though its Latin
inscription is quite illegible. In the churchyard, too,
is a plain upright stone inscribed : — ' Here lies interred
the heads of Laur. Hay and Andrew Pitulloch, who
sulFered martyrdom at Edinburgh, July 13th, 1681, for
adhering to the Word of God and Scotland's covenanted
work of reformation ; and also one of the hands of David
Hackston of Rathillet, who was most cruelly murdered
at Edinburgh, July 30th, 1680, for the same cause.'
Which Hackston was one of the twelve murderers of
Archbishop Sharp on Magus Muir in 1679. At Cupar,
in 1718, the Archbishop's descendant. Sir James Sharp,
Lord George Murray, and Sir David Threipland of
Fiugask were arraigned for their share in the '15, but
the proceedings against them proved abortive. John,
Lord Campbell (1781-1861), Chancellor of England, was
born in a house still standing in the Crossgate, his
father being parish minister ; and the Life of him
by his daughter, published in 1880, contains much of
interest relating to Cupar. Another native was the
portrait and landscape painter, Charles Lees, R.S.A.
(1800-80).
Old Cupar lay all on the left or N side of the Eden,
and had six gates or ports at thorouglifares which mostly
retain their ancient names. The West Port stood at
the W end of lionnygate ; the Lady Port towards the
northern extremity of Lady Wynd ; the East Port
almost opposite the Town llall ; the Bridge Port at
329
Seal of Cupar.
CUPAR
a point where the Eden now is crossed by the South
Bridge leading to the North British station ; the Mill
Port at Millgate ; and the Kirkgate Port at the W end
of Kirkgate. The present town comprises three principal
streets, several lanes and alleys, some suburbs on the N
and E and AV, and a considerable suburb on the S side
of the Eden ; containing many new houses, it presents
a well-built, cleanly, thri\ing "appearance. It has been
lighted with gas since 1830 ; and in December 1876 a
new water-supply was introduced from two storing ponds
at Clatto and Skelpie, about 4^ miles SSW of the town.
The Town Hall
stands at the junc-
tion of St Catherine
Street and Cross-
gate, and is a plain,
neat 'structure, sur-
mounted by a cupola
and belfry. The
County Buildings,
in St Catherine
Street, were en-
larged in 1836 and
again in 1872, pre-
sent a neat though
plain facade, and
contain the county
hall, the sheriff
court - room, and
offices for the public
clerks. In the county hall are a fine portrait of John, Earl
of Hopetoun, by Sir Henry Raeburn ; a very valuable por-
trait of Lord kellie in his official robes, by Sir David
Wilkie ; portraits of George II., George III., and Queen
Charlotte, by Ramsay, son of the 'Gentle Shepherd;'
besides a copy of a good portrait of Lord Elgin, Viceroy
of India, and marble busts of his lordship and of the
late J. H. E. TVemyss of Wemyss and Torrie, M.P.
The old county prison, on the S side of the Eden, now
serves as the Fife Artillery Militia storehouse. The new
prisonoccupiesaconspicuous site a little to the NE of the
town, and built, at a cost of over £3000, on a greatly
improved plan, is now under Government management,
aud has accommodation for 33 male and 13 female
prisoners. Opposite the TowTi Hall stood an ancient
cross, which, comprising an octagonal base and a round
pillar surmounted by a unicorn, was taken down in
1817. Its pillar was presented, at hir own request,
to Colonel Wemyss of Wemyss Hall, and by him was
re-erected on the lower northern slopes of Tarvit Hill
(to the S of the town), at the very spot on which, it is
believed, the treaty between Mary of Guise and the
Lords of the Congregation was subscribed. The Corn
Exchange, built in 1862 at a cost of £4000, is an edifice
in the Gothic style, with a spire 136 feet high ; it
contains 46 stalls for market business, and was designed
to serve also as a music and lecture hall, but has not
good acoustic qualities. The railway station stands on
the S side of the Eden, and is handsome and com-
modious ; near it, on the Kirkcaldy road, is a statue by
Mr Ho\yie of Edinburgh, of the Disruption worthy,
David Maitland Makgill Crichton, Esq. of Rankcilour
(1801-51). One piece of ground for a public park was
gifte<l to the town in 1871 by Provost Hood, another,
adjoining, in 1872, by Provost Nicholson. The Lady
Burn, intervening, was then arched over, and the two
gifts, with the original cart-haugh, now form a continuous
park, comprising some 15 acres of green meadow, and
torming one of the most valualde amenities of the burgh.
The original ])arish church stood 3 furlongs NW
of the town, but within the old walls, on a rising
ground near Springfield House ; became a ruin in the
early part of the 15th century ; and was completely
obliterated in 1759. Its successor, in Kirkgate Street,
built in 1415, is said to have been a beautiful Gothic
structure of poli.shed .sandstone, measuring 133 feet
in length by 54 in width ; but it, too, fell into decay,
and was taken down in 1785. The present church,
then erected, partly on the same site, is a plain unattrac-
830
CUPAR
tive building, containing 1300 sittings. The church of
1415 had a tower, to which the spire already mentioned
was added by Mr Scot in the beginning of the 17th
century ; and this tower and spire are separated from
the present church by an intervening vestry or session-
house, into which part of one of the aisles of the
former church was converted. The ancient church of
St ^lichacl, on the S side of the Eden, crowned a
a small conical eminence, St Michael's Hill, now mostly
covered with the plantation that shelters the NE en-
trance to Tarvit House, the seat of James Home Rigg,
Esq. of DoAvnfield. The present church of St ]\Iichael
stands in the town, was erected in 1857 at a cost of
£1800, and, altered and improved in 1871, contains 810
sittings. With a legacy of £7500, bequeathed by the
late Sir David Baxter of Kilmaron, a tine new Free
church, mixed Gothic in style, Mith tower and spire 135
feet high, was built (1876-77) on the N side of the Bonny-
gate. Other places of worship are Bonnygate U. P. church
^1866 ; a handsome structure), Boston U. P. church (1850),
a Baptist chapel, a Roman Catholic chapel (1879 ; the
upper flat of a dwelling-house), and St James's Epis-
copal church. The last stands on or very near the site
of St Mary's Dominican friary, which, founded by one
of the Earls of Fife, was by James V. annexed to St
Andrews, and the last remnant of which, a part of
its church, consisting of fine sandstone masonry,
was removed at the forming of St Catherine Street,
now containing the Episcopal church. This, as rebuilt
about 1870, is a neat Gothic structure of white freestone,
with nave and one side aisle, and with a new organ,
erected in 1876, that far surpasses any other in the
county. Two burgh schools, dating back to the reign
of Charles I., were in 1823 superseded by an academy,
which in turn gave place, in 1831, to a Madras academy,
founded and endowed b}' the late Dr Andrew Bell.
New buildings were then erected, but the old ones
also were retained ; and the whole may be described as
sufficiently good and commodious, though the playground
is somewhat small, extended about 1865, but since
curtailed by the erection of additional class-rooms and
sheds for shelter of the pupils. In the middle of the
original playground there stood till about 1860 an
old one-story building, occupied as a sewing school
at one end, and at the other as a class-room for
pupils whose fees were provided by the parochial board or
other local charity. This was superseded by the erec-
tion in Kirkgate of a modern suite of class-rooms, which
in ISSl were greatly enlarged, mostly out of accumula-
tions of an annual sum of £40 bequeathed by the late
Alexander Bogie of Balass and Newmill ' for the
education of poor children ' in Cupar parish. This
Kirkgate school and the academy are both under the
management of Dr Bell's trustees (the lord-lieutenant
of the county and Cupar parish ministers, provost,
and dean of the guildry), in whom is vested the estate
of Egmore in Galloway, which in 1881 yielded £746
towards the expenses of the institution. The upper
school of the Madras Academy gives instruction in
English, classical and modern languages, mathematics,
drawing, etc. , to 200 pupils ; whilst its lower school
and South Side or Kirkgate school, with respective
accommodation for 288 and 450 children, had (1880)
an average attendance of 296 and 211, and grants of
£246, 9s. and £153, 6s. The Baxter Institute, at West
Port, for the education of young ladies, was built and
endowed in 1871 by the late Sir David Piaxter. The
Duncan Institute (1870), in Crossgate, founded for the
working classes of Cupar, Dairsie, and Kilconquhar l)y the
late Miss Duncan of Edcngrove, is a handsome edifice in
the Scotch baronial style, with a spire 114 feet high ;
and contains 2 reading-rooms, a library, a recreation
room, a lecture hall, a musoum, and a billiard room.
A handsome and commodious Parish Sabbath School
Hall, lately erected at a cost of over £2000, contains a
memorial window to its founder, the late John Pitcairn,
Esq. of Pitcullo. Other institutions are a local asso-
ciation of the Educational Institute of Scotland, 2
amateur musical associations, a young men's Christian
CUPAR
association, an Established Church 3'oung men's mutual
improvement society, a floral and horticultural society,
chess, ciarliug, golf, cricket, bowling, and athletic games'
clubs, 4 masonic lodges, a property investment company,
2 friendly societies, a temperance society, and Good
Templars' and Foresters' lodges.
The town has a head post office, with money order,
savings' bank, insurance, and railway telegraph depart-
ments, offices of the Royal, National, Commercial,
Clydesdale, and British Linen Co.'s banks, a national
security savings' bank, 23 insui-ance agencies, 5 hotels,
and 3 weekly newspapers — the Thursday Liberal Fife
Herald (1822), the Thurstlay Conservative Fifeshire
Journal (1833), and the Saturday Fife Neics (1870).
A weekly corn market is held on Tuesday ; a horse
and cattle market on the first, and an auction mart
for cattle on the first and third, Tuesdays of every
month ; fairs and feeing markets on the first Tuesday
of August and either on 11th November or the fol-
lowing Tuesday. Large trade is done in the selling and
grinding of corn ; and other industries are brewing,
malting, dyeing, tanning, flax-spinning, and the weaving
of all kinds of linens ; whilst much business accrues
from the town's position and character as the political
capital of the county. It was distinguished, too, at
one time for the production of beautiful specimens of
typography and the publication of many useful books,
Cupar being then the seat of publication for St Andrews
University. The earliest extant charter constituting
Cupar a royal burgh is David II. 's of 1363. The burgh
is governed by a provost, 3 bailies, a dean of guild, a
treasurer, and 12 councillors, who also act as police
commissioners ; and it unites with St Andrews, Crail,
Kilrenny, the Anstruthers, and Pittenweem in sending
a member to parliament. A guildry exists apart from
the dean of guild court, a shadowy relic of the old times
of monopoly, that lingers on chiefly or solely because
its president is ex officio a trustee of the Madras academy.
Five incorporated trades — hammermen, wrights, weavers,
tailors, and fleshers — also prolong a formal existence from
the past. The municipal constituency numbered 725
and the parliamentary 733 in 1882, when the annual
value of real property within the burgh amounted to
£20,830, 10s. 4d. (£15,178 in 1871), whilst the corpora-
tion revenue for 1881 was £193. Pop. of parliamentary
burgh (1851) 5605, (1861) 5029, (1871) 5105, (1881)
5010. Houses (1881) 1118.
The parish, containing also the villages of Brighton,
Springfield, and Gladney, comprises the ancient parish
of St Michael-Tarvit, annexed in 1618. It is bounded
N by Kilmany and Dairsie, E by Dairsie and Kemback,
S by Ceres and Cults, W by Monimail, and NW by
Moonzie. Its greatest length, from N to S, is 3g miles ;
its greatest breadth, from E to W, is 3^ miles ;
and its area is 5737 acres, of which IJ are water.
The river Eden winds 4| miles north-eastward and east-
north-eastward along the Ceres border and through tlie
interior ; it originally traced all the boundary between
Cupar proper and St Michael-Tarvit, but, in conse-
quence of an artificial straightening of its course at
the town, has now a small portion of St Michael's
en its N bank. Lady Burn, coming in from Moni-
mail, and receiving an affluent from the confines of
Dairsie, drains most of the northern district, and falls
into the Eden at the E end of the town. The sur-
face is beautifully diversified by undulations or rising-
grounds, and makes a rich display of culture and wood.
In the extreme E the Howe of Fife or Stratheden
declines to less than 80 feet above sea-level, thence
rising to 313 feet at Hawklaw and 400 at Kilmaron
Hill on the left, and to 600 at Tarvit Hill on the
right, side of the Eden. A ridgy mound of fresh-water
gravel, commencing at the School Hill, the site of the
ancient castle of Cupar, strikes northward up the flank
of Lady Burn, and runs in a serpentine direction till it
culminates in a sort of peak — the Mote or Moat Hill,
traditionally said to have been the meeting-place of
councils of war and courts of justice under tlie ' Thanes
of Fife.' Sandstone conglomerate prevails along the
CURLING HALL
Lady Burn, and elsewhere white sandstone of excellent
building quality ; whilst trap rocks, chiefly greenstone
and clinkstone, form most of the rising-grounds. The
sandstone is worked in four quarries, the greenstone in
two. The soil, in the N and the E, is chiefly a friable
loam on a gravelly subsoil ; in the S and the W, is
more inclined to sand ; but, almost everywhere, has
been highly improved, and produces the finest crops.
The mansions are Kilmaron, Tarvit, Springfield, Wemjss
Hall, Dalgairn (formerly Dalyell Lodge), Hilton, Cairnie,
Pitbladdo, Prestonhall, Foxton, Ferrybank, Belmore,
Bellfield, Bonville, Blalowan, and Westfield, and most
of them are separately noticed. Six proprietors hold
each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 28 of between
£100 and £500, 43 of from £50 to £100, and 93 of from
£20 to £50. Cupar is the seat of a presbytery in the
synod of Fife ; and it includes the greater part of the
quoad sacra parish of Spkingfield. The charge is
collegiate, the two ministers officiating alternately in
the parish church and St Michaers,'and the living of the
first charge being worth £448, of the second £411.
An ancient chapel stood on the lands of Kilmaron.
Brighton public school, with accommodation for 67
children, had (1880) an average attendance of 37, and a
grant of £26, 4s. Valuation (1866) £25,280, 6s. 5d.,
(1882) £36,480, 8s. iA.,plus £1680 for railway. Pop.
(1801) 4463, (1831) 6473, (1861) 6750, (1871) 7102,
(1881) nOi.—Ord. Sur., shs. 48, 40, 1868-67.
The presbytery of Cupar comprehends the quoad civilia
parishes of Abdie, Auchtermuchty, Balmerino, Ceres,
CoUessie, Creich, Cults, Cupar, Dairsie, Dunbog, Falk-
land, Flisk, Kettle, Kilmany, Logic, Monimail, Moonzie,
Newburgh, and Strathmiglo, and the quoad sacra
parishes of Freuchie, Ladybank, and Springfield. Pop.
(1871) 30,679, (1881) 26,693, of whom 7507 were com-
municants of the Church of Scotland in 1878. — The Free
Church also has a presbytery of Cupar, M-ith churches
at Newburgh, Auchtermuchty, Ceres, CoUessie, Cupar,
Dairsie, Falkland, Flisk, Kettle, Logic, Monimail, and
Strathmiglo, which together had 2307 communicants in
1881. — Lastly the United Presbyterian Synod has a pres-
bytery of Cupar, with 2 churches in Auchtermuchty, 2
in Ceres, 2 in Cupar, and 6 in respectively Freuchie,
Kettle, Lathones, Pitlessie, Rathillet, and St Andrews,
the 12 having 2746 members in 1880.
Cupar-Angus. See Coupar-Angus.
Cupar-Grange. See Coupar-Grange.
Cuparmuir, a village in Cupar parish, Fife, If mile
W of Cupar town. It consists of a few scattered cot-
tages, with a tile-work and a sandstone quarry.
Cupinshay. See Copenshay.
Cur, a stream of Strachur parish, Cowal, Argyllshire,
formed by two head-streams at an altitude of 380 feet,
and running 6f miles south-westward and south-east-
ward to the head of Loch Eck. Its course, for the
first 2 miles, is rough and rapid, and forms several fine
cascades ; but lower down becomes smoother, and makes
a number of beautiful turns. — Ord. Sur., sh. 37, 1876.
Curate's Steps, a small pass at the side of the river
Ayr, near Sorn Castle, in Sorn parish, Ayi'shire. It
got its name from a tradition that an obnoxious Epis-
copalian minister fled by it from his enraged flock, in
the times of forced Episcopacy prior to 1688.
Curate's Well, a copious intermittent spring on the
glebe of Dunsyre, in Dunsyro parish, Lanarkshire. It
issues from two circular patches of soft sand, engirt with
very hard clay and gravel ; and at intervals of five or ten
minutes it bubbles up as if emitting air.
Curgarff. See Cougarf.
Curgie, a small bay in Kirkmaiden parish, Wigtown-
shiri', on the W side of Luce bay, 3 miles N of the Mull
of Galloway.
Curlee or Caerlee. See Innerleithen.
Curling Hall, an estate, with a mansion, in Largs
parish, Ayrshire, near tlic shore, a little S of the town.
It includes part of the battlefield of Lakgs, and contains
a memorial of the battle, in the form of a sculptured
stone, with an inscribed copper plate affixed to it by Dr
John Cairnie in 1823.
831
CURE
Curr, a hill (1849 feet) in llorehattle parish, Rox-
burghshire, oi miles E by S of Morebattle village, and
^ mile from the English Border.
Curreath, an estate, with a modern mansion, in Dun-
donald parish, Ayrshire, 3 miles ENE of Troon.
Ciirrie, a village and a parish of W central Edinburgh-
shire. The village, a pleasant little pkce, stands on the
steep left bank of the Water of Leith. here spanned by
a 14th century bridge, 6 miles SW of Edinburgh, having
one station (Curriehill) on the main line of the Cale-
donian, and another (Currie) on its Balerno loop ; at it
is a post office, \vith money order, savings' bank, insur-
ance, and telegraph departments. Pop. (1861) 345, (1871)
329, (1881) 255.
The parish containing also the villages of Balerno
and Hermiston, is bounded N by Corstorphine, E by
Corstorphine and Colinton, SE by Penicuik and the
Listonshiels section of Kirkliston, SW by Midcalder,
W by Kirknew'ton, and NW by Ratho. Its utmost
length, from NNE to SSW, is 8^ miles ; its breadth
varies between 4^ furlongs and 4^ miles ; and its area is
11,236 acres, of which 132 J are water. The Water of
Leitii, coming in from the uplands of Midcalder, winds
1\ mile north-north-eastward along the Kirknewton bor-
der, next 6 miles east-north-eastward across the middle
of the parish, receiving by the way Dean, Cock, and
BAVEL.4.W Burns, and other still smaller tributaries.
Near the Colinton and Penicuik boundaries lie Clubbie-
dean, Harelaw, and Threipmuir reservoirs, supplying
the Edixbuugii waterworks ; and the Union Canal runs
2| miles through the northern interior in the \dcinity of
Hermiston. The surface, in the N forming part of the
Corstorphine plain, has a general southerly rise to the
Pentland Hills from less than 200 feet above sea-level to
800 on Warlaw Hill, 1250 near Craigenterry, and 800 at
East Rig. The rocks belong mainly to the Calciferous
Limestone series, traversed at Ravelrig by a mass of
diorite ; whilst just to the SE of Threipmuir reservoir is
one of three separate localities among the Pentlands,
where rocks of Ujiper Silurian age are so surrounded and
covered unconformably by the Lower Old Red sandstone,
that their relations to the Lower Silurian series can no-
where be ascertained. Excellent 9:indstone abounds
along the left bank of the Water of Leith, especially in
the neighbourhood of Balerno, and has been largely
(juarried ; limestone of inferior quality has been worked
ou the Malleny estate ; and a German, one Joachim Gonel,
proposed in 1683 to open a copper-mine near East Mill,
but the scheme would seem to have fallen to the ground.
The soil of the uplands is moorish ; but that of the low
tracts is rich and highly cultivated, the rental of one or
two farms here having increased 700 per cent, within
the last 150 years. Dairy-farming and sheep-farming
are also carried on ; and within the parish are 2 large
paper-mills and 2 snuff manufactories. Sibbald and
other antiquaries identified Currie with 'Coria,' the
cluef seat of the Damnonii in the 2d century, a.d.,
which Skene, however, places at Carstairs ; among its
antiquities are a supposed Roman station on Ravelrig
Hill and the ruins of Lennox Tower and Curriehill
Castle. Illustrious natives or residents were Sir Thomas
Craig (1538-1608), author of Jus Feudalc ; the Lord
Clerk Register, Sir John Skene of Curriehill (1549-1612),
legal antiquary ; his son. Lord President Sir James
Skene (1580-1633) ; Sir Archibald Johnston, Lord War-
riston (1010-63), lawyer and statesman ; Jas. Anderson,
LL.D. (1739-1808), wTiter on agriculture ; General
Thomas Scott of Malleny (1745-1841) ; John Marshall,
Lord Curriehill (1794-1868) ; and his son and namesake
CUTTLEHILL
(1827-81), also an eminent judge. The principal man-
sions are Baberton, Curriehill, Hermiston, Lennox Lea,
Lyraphoy, Malleny, Ravelrig, and Riccarton ; and 13
proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and up-
wards, 9 of between £100 and £500, 9 of from £50 to
£100, and 25 of from £20 to £50. Currie is in the pres-
bytery of Edinburgh and synod of Lothian and Tweed-
dale ; the living is worth £395. The parish church, at
the village, successor to one that down to the reign o.
Charles I. appears to have been subordinate to the
collegiate church of Corstorphine, was built about 1785,
and contains 800 sittings. A Free church for Currie
and Colinton stands at Juniper Green ; at Balerno
are a U. P. church and St Mungo's Episcopal chapel;
and two public schools, Balerno and Currie, and Balerno
Episcopal school, with respective accommodation for
176, 200, and 126 children, had (1880) an average
attendance of 103, 122, and 57, and grants of £82,
5s. 6d., £95, 18s., and £39, 4s. Valuation (I860)
£18,692, (1882) £32,217, including £8443 for railways
and waterworks. Pop. (1801) 1112, (1831) 1883, (1861)
2248, (1871) 2360, (1881) 2390.— Orc^. Sur., sh. 32, 1857.
Currie, an estate, with a mansion, in Borthwick parish,
Edinburghshire. The mansion, standing on a head-
stream of Gore Water, 2\ miles SE of Gorebridge, con-
sists partly of a former inn, partly of excellent additions,
and reposes among sheltering wood under the shadow
of Borthwick Castle. Its owner, Stuart Brown, Esq.
(b. 1818), holds 904 acres in the shire, valued at £866
per annum. A previous mansion, demolished about
1809, stood on a rising-gi-ound overlooking the old
church and valley of Borthwick.
Curriehill, an estate, vdilx a mansion, in Currie parish,
Edinburghshire, 1 mile SW of Curriehill station on the
Caledonian, this being 5J miles SW of Edinburgh. A
castle, a little W of the mansion, figured as a place of
strength in the time of Queen Mary, being held by the
Queen's opponents. See Cuerie.
Cushieville. See Coshieville.
Cushnie, an ancient parish in Alford district, Aber-
deenshire, annexed in 1798 to Leochel, and now form-
ing the western section of that parish. Cushnie or
Sockaugh Hill, at the meeting-point with Towie, Logie-
Coldstone, and Tarland, 7 miles SW of Alford village,
has an altitude of 2032 feet above sea-level, and com-
mands a very extensive view. Cushnie Burn, rising on
the north-western shoulder of the hill, runs 4^ miles
east-north-eastward along Cushnie Glen and the Howe
of Cushnie to a confluence with Leochel Water at Brigton
of Ininteer. Cushnie barony, originally called Cus-
scnin (Gael, ch'oisinn, 'corner'), belonged, in the 12th
century, to a family of its own name ; went by marriage,
in the early part of the 14th century, to the Leslies,
ancestors of the Earls of Rothes ; and passed, in 1628,
to the Lumsdens. The old House of Cushnie, built in
1707, has long been uninhabited ; but near it a small
neat mansion was erected by the late proprietor, the
Rev. Hy. T. Lumsden (died 1867), whose widow holds
3000 acres in the shire, valued at £2588 per annum.
His uncle, Matthew Lumsden, LL.D. (1788-1856), was
an eminent orientalist. — Ord. Sur., sh. 76, 1874. See
Leochel-Ci'shnie.
Cuthill or Cuttle, a suburb of Prestonpans town,
Hadilingtonsliire. Separated from the W end of that
town by a rill, it is a dingy unpleasant place ; and
formerly had a salt work, a magnesia manufactory, and
an extensive pottery.
Cuttlehill, a mansion in Aberdour parish, Fife, |
mile E by S of Crossgates station.
332
DAAN
DALAROSSIE
D
DAAN, a bum of Edderton parish, Ross -shire,
formed hy two head-streams, and running 2|
miles north-north-eastward to the inner Dornoch
Firth, at Ardmore Point, If mile W by N of
Meikle Ferry.
Daer Water, the principal head-stream of the Clyde,
rising in the extreme S of the parish of Crawford and of
the cbhire of Lanark, at 2000 feet above sea-level, on the
NE slope of Gana Hill (2190 feet), within J mile of the
Dumfriesshire border and of a sub-affluent of the Annan.
Thence it runs lOJ miles northward to a confluence with
Powtrail "Water, at a point 2 f miles S of Elvanfoot ; and
their united waters thenceforward bear the name of the
river Clyde. Traversing a dreary region of bleak moun-
tains and moorish uplands, and joined by sixteen little
affluents, it has a rapid, noisy, and frolicsome cm-rent ;
enjoys high repute as a trouting stream ; and gives the
titie of Baron (ere. 1646) to the Earl of Selkirk.— Orrf.
Sur., sh. 15, 1864.
Daharick, a moor in Midmar parish, Aberdeenshire,
said to have been the scene of a battle between Wallace
and Comyn.
Daiglen, a bum in Tillicoultry parish, Clackmannan-
shire, rising at an altitude of 1750 feet, and running If
mile south-eastward to form with Gannel Bum the Bum
of Tillicoultry.
Dailly, a village and a parish in Carrick district, Ayr-
shire. The village of New Dailly stands on the left
bank of Girvan Water, 7 furlongs SSE of Dailly station,
on the Ayr and Girvan railway, this being 5i miles EXE
of Girvan, and 7^ SSW of Maybole, under which it has
a post office, with money order, savings' bank, and tele-
graph departments. Greatly improved and enlarged
since 1825, it is substantially built and regularly aligned ;
at it are a principal inn, the parish and Free churches,
a public school, and a working men's club. Pop. (1841)
591, (1861) 650, (1871) 554, (1881) 696.
The parish, called ancientlv Dahnaolkeran ('dale of
St Keiran '), had its church till 1691 at Old Dailly, U
miles to the WSW ; in 1653 it was shorn of a large tract
to form Barr parish, but acquired a small annexation
from Kirkoswald. It includes Ailsa Craig : yet itself
at no point touches the sea, being bounded NW and N
by Kirkoswald, NE by Kirkmichael, E by Kirkmichael
and Straiton, S by Barr, SW and W by Girvan.
Its utmost length, from E to W, is 7| miles ; its
breadth, from N to S, varies between I5 and 6 miles ;
and its area is 18,078^ acres, of which 82| are water.
GiRVAX Water, followed pretty closely by the railway,
winds 9J miles west-south-westward through the nortli-
western interior or along the northern and western
borders ; and several burns run to it from the interior.
In the SW, where it passes off into Girvan, the surface
sinks to close upon 50 feet above sea-level, thence rising
north-eastward to 500 feet at High Craighead, 329 near
Kilgrammie, 700 at Quarrel Hill, and 850 at Kirk Hill ;
south-eastward and eastward to 908 at Green Hill, 1059
at Hadvard Hill, 981 at Peat Pag, 1049 at Barony Hill,
1007 at Caim Hill, and 1385 at Garleffin Fell. The
rocks belong partly to the Calciferous Sandstone series,
partly to the Carboniferous Limestone ; and coal is
worked at Bargany and Dalquharran, limestone at Craig-
head, while sandstone also is plentiful. The tract
along Girvan Water is a pleasant vale, fertile, richly
wooded, and well cultivated ; the soil is here partly
alluvial, and elsewhere ranges from argillaceous or light
and dry, incumbent on gravel, to thin, wet, and spongy
on the hills, which, naturally heathy or mossy, have
been in places reclaimed, and almost everywhere afford
good pasturage. Baronial fortalices stood at Old Kil-
kerran, Dalquharran, Brunston, and Penkill ; a chapel
of St Macarius * stood at Machrykill, another of Our
Lady in Ladyrjlcn, and a third at Altichapel ; whilst
* In Procs.Ayr and Wigtown Archceol. Soc. (18S2) is a notice of
the sole relic of this chapel— a stone supposed to have been a bap-
tismal font of hi^h antiquity.
on the western shoulder of Hadyard Hill, which com-
mands a magnificent view, is a doubly-entrenched camp,
possibly formed in the days of Robert Bruce, and measur-
ing 300 feet by 195. Natives of Dailly were the poet,
Hew Ainslie (1792-1878) ; Thos. Thomson (1768-1852),
lawyer and antiquary ; and his painter brother, the Rev.
Jn. Thomson of Duddingston (1778-1840): and Prof.
Alex. Hill, D.D. (1785-1867), was minister from 1816 to
1840. Mansions, all separately noticed, are Bargany,
Dalquharran Castle, Kilkerran, Killochan Castle, and
Penkill Castle ; and 5 proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 2 of between £100 and £500,
and 6 of from £20 to £50. Dailly is in the presbj-tery
of Ayr and synod of Glasgow and Ajt ; the living is
worth £397. In 1881 it was all but resolved to rebuild
the parish churcli (1766; 600 sittings), but for the pre-
sent things are at a standstill. Four schools — Dailly
public, Kilgrammie public. Old Dailly public, and Wal-
laceto^vn Works — with respective accommodation for 227,
109, 75, and 90 children, had (1880) an average attend-
ance of 168, 55, 39, and 89, and grants of £135, 14s.,
£27, 13s., £40, 14s., and £61, 4s. Valuation (1882)
£16,288, 18s. lOd., plus £2618 for railway. Pop. (1801)
1756, (1831) 2074, (1861) 2050, (1871) 1932, (1881) 2204.
—Ord. Sur., shs. 14, 8, 1863.
Dairsie, a parish in the NE of Fife, containing at its
eastern border the village of Dairsiemuir or Osnabm-gh,
5 furlongs NNW of Dairsie station, this being 3^ miles
SSW of Leuchars Junction, and 3 ENE of Cupar, under
which it has a post office, with money order, savings'
bank, and railway telegraph departments. Bounded
NW by Kilmany and Logie, N and E by Leuchars, SE
by Kemback, SW and W by Cupar, the parish has an
utmost length from E to W of 2| miles, a var\-ing
breadth from N to S of 5 furlongs and 2J miles, and
an area of 2560^ acres, of which 5;^ are water. The
Eden winds 2^ miles north-eastward along aU the Kem-
back border ; and where, close to Dairsie station, it
quits this parish, the surface declines to less than 100
feet above sea-level, thence rising westward and north-
westward to 505 feet on Foodie Hill, and 554 on Ckaig-
FOODIE, which, presenting to the SW a precipitous and
quasi-columnar front, commands a verj- extensive view.
Sandstone abounds in the S ; and trap-rock is quarried
in two places. The soil, in most parts fertile, in many
is rich and deep ; and little or nothing is waste. Dairsie
Castle, a ruin on a rising-ground near the Eden, was the
meeting-place of a parliament in 1335, and was occupied
by John Spottiswood, Archbishop of St Andrews, when
■writing his History of tlie Church and State of Scotland.
Craigfoodie is the chief mansion ; and 4 proprietors hold
each an annual value of £1000 and upwards, 2 of between
£500 and £1000, 1 of from £100 to £500, and 3 of from
£20 to £50. Dairsie is in the presbytery of Cupar and
synod of Fife ; the living is worth £400. The parish
church containing 313 sittings, was 'built and adorned
after the decent English fashion ' by Archbishop Spottis-
wood in 1621. A squat, four-bayed oblong, ^ith octa-
gonal bell-turret and dwarf-spire, it 'only shows,' says
Hill Burton, ' that the hand of the builder had lost its
cunning, and that neither the prelate nor his biographer
had an eye for mediaeval art ; it is a piece of cold
mimicry, like the work of the cabinetmaker rather than
of the architect,' etc. {Hist. Scot., vii. 102, ed. 1876).
There is also a Free church ; and a public school, with
accommodation for 135 children, had (1880) an average
attendance of 112, and a grant of £90, 9s. Valuation
(1882) £6573, 3s. lid. Pop. (1801) 550, (1831) 605,
(1861) 638, (1871) 687, (1881) 693.— Ord. Sur., shs.
48, 49, 1868-65. See vol L of Billings' Antiquities
(1845).
Dairsiemuir. See Dair.sie.
Dalarossie (Gael, dail-a-rois, ' field of the point '), an
ancient parish of NE Inverness-shire, now annexed to
Moy. More populous than Moy, it lies along the Find-
hom river, and on its left bank, 3| miles SW of Findhorn
333
DALAVICH
bridge and 20i SE of Inverness, has a church (1790 ; 450
sittings) and a public school.
Dalavich, an ancient parish and a registration district
in Lorn, Argj-Ushire. The parish, now annexed to Kil-
chrenan, lies along the loch and river of Avich, onward
to Loch Awe, on whose western shore, 14 miles WNW
of Inverarv, stand its church and its public school.
Pop. of district (1871) 217, (ISSl) 225. See KiL-
CHKEN'AX.
Dalbaxber, a village on the E border of Fowlis-Wester
parish, Perthshire, 2 miles WSW of Methven village.
Dalbeattie, a thriving police burgh in Urr parish, SE
Kirkcudbrightshire, standing, SO feet above sea-level, on
Dalbeattie Bum, 7 furlongs from its influx to Urr
Water, with a station on the Glasgow and South-Western
railway, 5J miles ESE of Castle -Douglas, 15i NE bv E
of Kirkcudbright, 14i SW of Dumfries, 108i SSW of
Edinburgh, and 106J S by E of Glasgow. Founded as
a mere village in 1780, this ' Granite City of the South '
owes its quick recent extension to the neighbouiing
quarries of Craignair in BriTTLE, to the opening of the
railway in 186u, and to its situarion near the Ukk,
which, for large vessels, is navigable as high as Dub o'
Hass, 5 miles to the S, and for small craft up to quite
close to the town. It consists of a main street with
others diverging, and has a post office, with money order,
savings' bank, and telegraph departments, a branch of
the Union Bank, 11 insurance agencies, 4 hotels, a gas
company, a town-hall with illuminated clock, a mechanics'
institute (1877), a literary association, bowling and
quoiting greens, masonic, oddfellows', and foresters'
lodges, etc. There are extensive bone, paper, bobbin, saw,
and flour mills, dye-works, an iron-forge, and concrete
iforks ; but Dalbeattie's chief industrial establishments
are the great steam granite-polishing works of ilessrs
Newall and Messrs Shearer, Field, & Co. , which employ
several hundreds of workmen as quarriers, hewers, and
polishers ; have furnished granite for the Liverpool docks,
the Thames Embankment, lighthouses in Ceylon, and
the paving of many large cities at home and abroad ;
and, besides other monuments, supplied that at Hughen-
den to Viscountess and Viscount Beaconsfield. Hiring
fairs are held on the second Tuesday of April and Octo-
ber. Dalbeattie forms a quoad sacra parish in the pres-
bytery and synod of Dumfries, its minister's stipend
being £300. A new parish church. Early English in
style, with 900 sittings and a spire 130 feet high, was
built in 1880 at a cost of £5000 ; and, at a cost of nearly
£2000, a new Free church, Romanesque in style, was
bmlt in 1881. Other places of worship are a U.P.
church (1818 ; 350 sittings), an Evangelical Union
church, St Peter's Roman Catholic church (1814 ; 300
sittings), and Christ Church Episcopal (1875), another
Early English edifice, with tower unfinished. A public,
a female public, and a Roman Catholic school, with
respective accommodation for 500, 65, and 154 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 384, 57, and 80,
and grants of £327, lis. 2d., £47, 2s., and £65, lis.
Under the General Police and Improvement Act of 1862,
the burgh is governed by a senior and two junior magis-
trates and six other police commissioners. Its munici-
pal constituency numbered 750 in 1882, when the annual
value of real property amounted to £9712. Pop. of
burgh (1841) 1430, (1861) 1736, (1871) 2937, (1881)
3862; of qiLoad sacra parish (1881) 4132.— Ord. Hur.,
8h. 5, 1857.
DaJblair. See GLEXMt'iR,
Dalcaimie Linn. See Beheeth.
DalcapozL See Duxkeld and Dowallt,
Dalchally, a glen in Glenisla parish, Forfarshire,
tntversfil by Cally Water to the river Lsla at a jioint 6
miles N of Glenisla church.
Dalchonzie, an estate, with a modem mansion, in
Coriirio parish, Pertlishire, on the right bank of the
Earn, 2^ miles W of Comrie village.
Daichosnie, an estate, with a mansion, in Fortingall
parish, N\V Perthshire, near the right bank of the
Tummel, \\ mile ESE of Kinloch Rannoch. Its owner.
General Alaatair M'lan M'Donald, of Dux Alastaik
334
DALGETY
(b. 1S30 ; sue. 1866), chief of the M'Donalds of Keppoch,
holds 14,000 acres in the shire, valued at £2676 per
annum.
Dalchreichard, a hamlet, with a public school, in
Urquhart and Glenmoristou parish, luverness-shire, on
the left bank of the Moriston, 1 mile W of Torgyle
Bridge.
Dalcross, a ruined castle in the united parish of Croy
and Dalcross, NE Inverness-shire, 2 miles SE of Dalci'oss
station on the Highland railway, this being 6f miles
NE of Inverness. Bmlt by the eighth Lord Lovat in
1621, it afterwards passed to the il'Iutoshes, whose nine-
teenth cliief, Lachlan, lay here in state from 9 Dec. 1703
till 18 Jan. 1704, when 2000 of the Clan Chattan fol-
lowed his remains — scanty enough, one would fancy — to
their last resting-place in Petty ehmxh. Here, too,
the Royal troops were put in array immediately before
the battle of Culloden. Dalcross stands high (362 feet
above sea-level), and commands a continuous view from
ilealfourvonie to the Ord of Caithness ; it consists of
two square, lofty, corbie-gabled blocks, joined to each
other at right angles. See Croy.
Dalcruive or Dalcrue, a place in Methven parish,
Perthshire, 2 miles XE of ilethven village, on the right
bank of the Almond, which here is crossed by a fine
bridge, erected in 1836-37, with one semicircular arch
of SO feet span.
Daldawn or Dildawn, an estate, with a modern man-
sion, in Keltou parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, on the left
bank of the Dee, 3 miles SW of Castle-Douglas.
Dalduff, an ancient baronial fortalice in Maybole
parish, Aj'rshire, now represented by only ruinous
walls, 3 nules SE of Maybole town.
Dale, a village of Shetland, 3J miles from its post-
to^vn, LerAvick.
Dalgain. See SoRX.
Dalgamock, an ancient parish in Xithsdale, Dumfries-
shire, annexed to Closebum in 1697. It nearly sur-
rounded the original parish of Closeburn ; and its
beautiful churchyard, l| mile S of Thornhill, contains
the grave and tombstone of the persecuted Covenanter
James Harkness. Here stood a village, a burgh of
barony, where a famous market-tryst was held, that
seems to have been continued after most or all of the
houses had disappeared, and is alluded to in Burus's
lines :
' But a' the next week, as I fretted wi' care,
I gaed to the trj'st o' Dalgamock ;
And wha but my fine fickle lover was there !
I glowi-'d as I'd seen a warlock, a warlock ;
I glowr'd as I'd seen a warlock.'
Dalgarven, a village in Kilwinning parish, Ayrshire,
on the right bank of the Garnock, contiguous to the
Glasgow and Soi;th-Westem railway, 2 miles N by W
of Kih\inning town.
Dalgenross. See Dai.gixross.
Dalgety or Delgaty, an estate, with a mansion, in
Turiitl' parish, N Aberdeenshire, 2 miles EXE of Turrilf
town. For three centuries and a half the property of
the Hays of ErroU, it was sold in 1762 to Peter Garden,
Esq. of Troup, and by his son resold in 1798 to James,
second Earl of Fife, whose nephew. Gen. the Hon. Sir
Alexander DuS" (1778-1851), long made it his residence.
Finally it was purchased by a younger brother of the
present Governor of iladras, Ainslie Douglas Ainslie,
Esq., who, born in 1838, changed in 1866 his name
C rant-Duff to that of Ainslie, and who holds 2822 acres
in the shire, valued at £1768 per annum. The oldest
part of Dalgety Castle, with walls more than 7 feet
thick, is older perhaps than its earliest extant date
(1579); and, added to at various jjcriods down to the
present century, the whole is now a stately Sf[uare,
winged pile, its battlements — 66 feet from the ground —
commanding a beautiful view. The grounds are finely
wooded, and contain a lake (2JxifurL). — Ord. Sur.,
sh. 86, 1876.
Dalgety, a coast pari.sh of SW Fife, containing the vil-
lages of St Davids, Fordel, and Mossgreen, with part of
Cko-ssgates, and traversed down to the coast at St Davidft
DALGINSOSS
by the Fordel mineral railway ; whilst its church stands
l| mile W by S of the post-towu Aberdour, and 4^ miles
AV by S of Burntisland. It is bounded W and N by
Dunfermline, NE by Aberdour, and SE by the Firth of
Forth, here from 1£ to 4J miles broad. Its utmost
length, from N to S, is 4^ miles ; its breadth, from E to
AV, varies between 4^ furlongs and 2| miles ; and its
area is 3710:j acres, of which SoZ^ are foreshore and 12f
water. The coast-line is fully 5J miles long, if one
foUows the bends of Barnhill, Braefoot, Dalgety, and
Donibristle Bays, the largest of which, Dalgety Bay,
measures 6J furlongs across the entrance, and 3;^ thence
to its inmost recess. From the shore, which in places
is beautifully wooded right down to the water's edge, the
surface here and there rises steeply to 100 feet and
more above sea-level, thence gently ascending through-
out the interior, till close to the northern border, J mile
E of Crossgates, it attains 426 feet. A darkly-wooded
glen, cleaving the grounds of Fordel, is traversed by a
brook which makes a fine waterfall of 50 feet ; and a
beautiful little loch is at Otterston, which still boasts
some magnificent trees. Among them are a beech and
an ash, 90 and 80 feet high, and 15| in girth at 5 feet
from the ground ; but a gale of January 1882 laid low
two venerable walnut-trees, the largest of which girthed
15§ feet at 16 from the ground. The rocks are chiefly
of the Carboniferous formation, and include great
abundance of sandstone, limestone, and coal ; the
last, of very superior quality, is mined at Fordel. The
arable soil is loam, partly light and dry, more generally
deep and strong. A village of Dalgety stood at the head
of Dalgety Bay, 4 mile SSE of the present church ; but
the ivy-clad ruins of St Bridget's kirk, dating from
the 12th century, are aU that now mark its site. First
Pointed in style, these retain a piscina and a number of
quaint old epitaphs ; whilst Chancellor Seton, first Eaid
of Dunfermline (1555-1622), is bui'ied in a vault to the
W. Almost the last to preach within their walls was
Edward Irving. Other antiquities are Fordel Castle and
a fragment of Couston Castle, at the E end of Otterston
Loch, the retreat this of Charles I.'s persecuted chaplain,
the Rev. Robert Blair (1583-1666), whose grave is at
Aberdour ; of Seton's favouiite residence, Dalgety
House, not so much as a stone remains. The chief
mansions are Donibristle House, Fordel House, Cock-
AiRNiE, and Otterston (1589), the two last both the
property of Captain Moubray, R.N. (b. 1818 ; sue.
1848), whose ancestor, a cadet of the Bai-nbougle Mou-
brays, settled here in 1511, and who owns 500 acres in
the shire, valued at £794 per annum. In all, 3 pro-
prietors hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards,
2 of from £50 to £100, and 5 of from £20 to £50. Giving
off its northern portion to the quoad sacra parish of Moss-
green, Dalgety is in the presbytery of Dunfermline and
.synod of Fife ; the living is worth £358. The present
church, built in 1830, is a good Gothic structure, con-
taining 500 sittings ; and 2 public schools, Hillend
and Mossgreen, with respective accommodation for 116
and 220 children, had (1880) an average attendance of
102 and 168, and grants of £80, lis. and £147.
Valuation (1882) £7695, 15s. 5d. Pop. (1801) 890,
(1831) 1300, (1861) 1569, (1871) 1310, (1881) 1321.—
Old. Sur., shs. 32, 40, 1857-67. See pp. 25-54 of J. C.
R. Buckner's Rambles Hound Aberdour (Edinb. 1881).
Dalginross (Gael, dail-chinn-rois, ' field at the head of
the point '), a village in Comrie parish, Perthshire, on
the peninsula between the AVater of Ruchill and the
river Earn, 3 furlongs S of Comrie town. Dalginross
Plain, to the S of the village, contained two Roman
camps, one of them occupying an area of 16 acres, sup-
posed by some antiquaries to liave been the ' A'^ictoria '
of the ninth Legion. See Blairinroar.
Dalguise, a village, with a Society's school, in Little
Dunkeld parish, central Perthshire, on the right bank
of the Tay, with a station on the Highland railway, 4^
miles NNAV of Dunkeld, under which it has a post
and telegraph office. The railway crosses the Tay, ^
mile N of the station, on a latticed iron-girder viaduct
360 feet in span, resting on one stone pier, and terminat-
DALINTOBER
ing at each end in handsome towers and wings of
masonry 71 feet long, and there it begins to open on the
beautiful Vale of Athole. Dalguise House, near the vil-
lage, is partly an old building, partly modem ; the
estate was given by AA'^illiam the Lyon to Dunkeld
chm-ch, and in 1543 was transferred by Bishop Crichton
to John, second son of Steuart of ArntuUie, whose de-
scendant, John Steuart, Esq., tenth Laird of Dalguise
(b. 1799; sue. 1821), holds 1750 acres in Perthshire,
valued at £1036 per annum, but is non-resident, having
been one of the earliest settlers in Cape Colony, where
he is Master of the Su[ireme Court.
Dalhalvaig. See Reay.
Dalhonzie. See Dalchonzie.
Dalhousie Castle, a noble mansion in Cockpen parish,
Midlothian, on the left bank of the river South Esk, 2J
miles S by AV of Dalkeith, 1§ mile SE of Bonnyrigg,
and 1^ S by AV of Dalhousie station on the AVaverley
route of the North British, this being 9 miles SE of
Edinburgh. In the first half of the 12th centm-y Simon
de Ramsay received a grant of lands in Midlothian from
David I. ; in 1296 and 1304 AA'^illiam de Ramsay swore
fealty to Edward 1. of England for the lands of ' Dal-
wokie.' His sou. Sir Alexander, was one of the great
Scotch leaders in the AVar of Independence, the capturer
of Roxburgh, who for reward was starved to death in
the Castle of Hermitage (1342); in 1400 his namesake
and fourth descendant successfully defended Dalhousie
against Henry lA". of England. This Sir Alexander
was slain at Homildon (1402), as was another at Flodden
(1513). In 1618 George Ramsay, eleventh in descent
from the first Sir Alexander, was raised to the peerage
as Lord Ramsay of ]\Ielrose, a title changed in the fol-
lowing year to that of Lord Ramsay of Dalhousie ; and
in 1633 his son and successor, AVilliam, was created Earl
of Dalhousie and Baron Ramsay of Kerington. During
his time we find Oliver Cromwell dating his letters from
Dalhousie Castle, 8 and 9 Oct. 1648. The fifth, sixth,
seventh, and ninth Earls were all of them soldiers,
George, the ninth (1770-183S), for service done in the
Peninsula being raised in 1S15 to the peerage of the
United Kingdom as Baron Dalhousie of Dalhousie. His
third son and successor, the Indian administrator, James
Andrew Brouu-Ramsay (1812-60), was born and died at
Dalhousie, at Dalhousie received a call from the Queen
and Prince Albert on 4 Sept. 1842, was Governor-
General of India from 1847 to 1855, and in 1849 was
created Marquis of Dalhousie, of Dalhousie Castle and
the Punjaub. This title died with him, but those of
Earl of Dalhousie and Baron Ramsay devolved on Ms
cousin, Fox Maule, second Lord Panmure (1801-74),
whose cousin and successor Admiral George Ramsay
(1806-80) became a peer of the United Kingdom in 1875
as Baron Ramsay of Glenmark. His son, the present
and thirteenth Earl, John AVilliam Ramsay, Commander
R.N., K.T. (b. 1847), is eighteenth in descent from the
first Sii" Alexander, and holds 1419 acres in Midlothian
and 136,602 in Forfarshire, valued respectively at £3452
and £55,602 per annum. (See Brechin and Panmure.)
Dating from the 12thcentui-y, Dalhousie is described by
the Queen as ' a real old Scottish castle, of reddish stone;'
but by the ninth Earl it was so altered and enlarged
tliat it is hard to say how much is old and how much
modern. Anyhow it is a stately castellated pile, with
lofty tower and a fine collection of family portraits ; on
10 Oct. 1867 it narrowly escaped entire destruction by
fire, with the loss of the third story and attics of the
central portion. The park is finely wooded, and the
garden of singular beautj'. Less than a half mile to the
NW flows Dalhousie Burn, which, rising near New-
bigging, runs 5 miles north-eastward along the boundary
of Carrington with Lasswade and Cockpen, and through
the interior of tlie latter parish, till near Dalhousie
station it joins the South Esk. A pretty streandet,
%dth steep but wooded banks, it makes a descent from
about 700 to less than 200 feet above sea-level. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 32, 1857. See Peter Mitchell's Parish of
Cockpen in the Olden Times (Dalkeith, 1881).
Dalintober, a suburban village in Canipbclto-wn parish,
335
DALJARROCH
Argyllshire, on the N side of the head of Campbeltown
Loeh. Lyins; within the parliamentary boundaries of
Campbeltown bingh, it is a thriving place, with a sub-
stantial small pier.
Daljairroch, an estate, with a mansion, in Colmonell
parish, S Ayrshire, on the right bank of the Stinchar,
near Pinmore station, and 4' miles ENE of Colmonell
village. Comprising 1927 acres, it was sold in 1875 for
.i4S,000. There is a post office of Daljarroch.
Dalkairnie Linn. See 15erbeth.
Dalkeith, a town and a parish in the E of Edinburgh-
shire. The town stands, 182 feet above sea-level, on a
peninsula from 3 to 5 furlongs wide between the North
and South Esks, and by road is 4^ miles S by W of
Musselburgh and 6 SE "of Edinburgh, whilst, as ter-
minus of a branch line 3| furlongs long, it is 8| miles
SE of Edinburgh. It is also accessible from Eskbank
station, 5 furlongs to the SW, on the main Waverley
route of the North British, this being 8| miles SE of
Edinburgh and 90J N by W of Cadisle. A low and
flat-backed ridge, the peninsula slopes more steeply to
the North than the South Ksk ; of the town's fair sur-
roundings this picture is given in David Moir's Mansie
Wauch : — ' Pleasant Dalkeith ! with its bonny river,
its gardens full of gooseberry bushes and pear-trees, its
grass parks spotted with sheep, and its grand green
woods.' The High Street widens north-eastward from
30 to 85 feet, and terminates at a gateway leading up to
Dalkeith Palace, the principal seat of the Duke of Buc-
cleuch, which palace, as centring round it all the chief
episodes in Dalkeith's history, must here be treated of
before Dalkeith itself.
The Anglo-Norman knight, William de Graham, a
witness to the foundation charter of Hol3'rood Abbey
(1128), received from David I. the manor of Dalkeith ;
his seventh descendant, John de Graham, dying without
issue about the middle of the 14tli century, left two
sisters, his heiresses, of whom one, ]\Iarjory, conveyed
Dalkeith by marriage to the Douglases. ' In my
youth,' says Froissart, ' I, the author of this book,
travelled all through Scotland, and was full fifteen days
resident with William, Earl of Douglas, at his castle of
Dalkeith. Earl James was then very young, but a pro-
mising youth,' etc. Doughty Earl James it was who,
capturing Hotsimr's trophy, cried out that he would set
it high on the tower of his castle of Dalkeith — a taunt
that led to the battle of Otterburn (1388). In 1452 tlie
town was plundered and burned by the brother of the
murdered sixth Earl of Douglas, but the castle held out
gallantly under Patrick Cockburn, its governor ; in
1458 James II. conferred on James Douglas of Dalkeith
the title of Earl of JMorton ; and at the second Earl's castle
James IV. first met his afiianced Queen, the Princess
Margaret of England, 3 Aug. 1503, when, ' having
greeted her with knightly courtesy, and passed the day
in her company, he returned to his bed at Edinburgh,
very well content of so fair meeting.' In 1543, Cardinal
Beaton was committed prisoner to Dalkeith Castle,
which in 1547 had to yield to the English victors of
Pinkie after a valiant defence. James, fourth Earl of
Morton, the cruel and grasping Regent, built at Dal-
keith about 1575 a magniiicent palace, richly adorned
with tapestries and pictures, and fitter for king tlian
subject — the ' Lion's Den ' the country people called it.
Hither on Sunday, June 11, 1581, just nine days after
the Lion's head had fallen beneath the Maiden's axe,
James VI. returned from the jtarish kirk with two
jiipers playing before him and with the Duke of Lennox,
Morton's accuser and successor. The Modern Solomon
revisited Dalkeith in 1G17, when Archibald Symson, the
parish minister, addressed to him a congratulatory
poem, Philomela Lalkethcnsis ; and in 1633 Charles I.
was here magnificently entertained. In the winter of
1637-38, Ibllowing close on the Liturgy tumults, the
Privy Council adjourned from Linlithgow to Dalkeith
Palace, whither twelve out of the sixteen 'Tables,' or
commissioners, representing the supplicants of every
estate, came to present their menacing [irotcstation ; and
in the si)ring of 1639 these Tables made themselves
836
DALKEITH
masters of the palace. "Within it, besides military
stores, were found the regalia — crown, sceptre, and
sword — which, with all reverence, were brought back
by the nobles to Edinburgh Castle. Francis Scott,
second Earl of Buccleuch, purchased Dalkeith from the
ninth Earl of Morton in 1642. Dying in 1651, he left
two daughters, Mary (1648-61) and Anne (1651-1732),
who, successively Countesses of Buccleuch in their own
right, married, at the early ages of 11 and 12, Walter
Scott of Highchester and the ill-fated Duke of Mon-
mouth, both of them lads of only 14 years. The Countess
Mary's custodier was the celebrated General Monk, who
as such had a five years' lease of Dalkeith (1654-59), and
lived there quietly, busying himself with gardening, but
ever regarded jealously by Cromwell. Her mother, who
for third husband had taken the Earl of Wemyss, is
described by Baillie as a witty, active Avoman, through
whom Monk acted on the Scottish nobles, and through
whom the Scottish nobles acted in turn on ilonk ; and
that ' sl}^ fellow' is said to have planned the Restoration
in rooms, still extant, overhanging the Esk. Monmouth
himself must often have been here ; in 1663 he and his
child spouse were created Duke and Duchess of Buccleuch
and Earl and Countess of Dalkeith. The Duchess of
the Lay of the Last Minstrel, she, after Monmouth's
execution (1685), lived chiefly at Newakk Castle in
princely style, more rarely at Dalkeith Palace, which, as
it stands to-day, was mainly built by her. Her grandson
and successor, Francis, second Duke of Buccleuch (1695-
1751), in whose time Prince Charles Edward passed two
nights at Dalkeith (1 and 2 Nov. 1745), married the
eldest daughter of James, second Duke of Queensberry ;
and their grandson Henry, third Duke (1746-1812),
inherited the dukedom of Queensberry in 1810. With a
younger brother, assassinated at Paris in 1766, he had
made the grand tour under the tutelage of Adam Smith ;
and he did much to improve his tenantry and vast
estates. To him Scott owed his appointment (1799) as
sherifl'-depute of Selkirkshire ; and his son and successor,
Charles William Henry (1772-1819), is also remembered
as a kindly friend to both Sir Walter and the Ettriek
Shepherd. His son, Walter-Francis Montagu-Douglas-
Scott (b. 1806 ; sue. 1819), has entertained royalty
twice, in the persons of George IV. (15-29 Aug. 1822)
and Queen Victoria and Prince Albert (1-6 and 13-15
Sept. 1842). He is the fourth largest landowner in
Scotland, holding 432,338 acres, valued at £187,156 per
annum, viz., 3536 in Midlothian (£28,408, including
£1479 for minerals and £10,601 for Granton harbour),
253,514 in Dumfriesshire (£97,530), 104,461 in Rox-
burghshire (£39,458), 60,428 in Selkirkshire (£19,828),
9091 in Lanarkshire (£1544), and 1308 in Fife, Kirkcud-
bright, and Peebles shires (£3SS). See Bowhili,,
DnuMLANRiG Castle, and Buanxholm. Such are
some of the memories of Dalkeith Palace, which, crown-
ing a steep, rocky knoll above the North Esk's right
bank, was mainly rebuilt by the Duchess of Monmouth in
the early years of the 18th century. Her architect. Sir
John Vanbrugh, better known for his plays than his build-
ings, chose as a model Loo Palace in the Netherlands ;
the result is a heavy-looking Grecian pile of reddish stone,
with recessed centre and projecting wings. The interior,
however, is rich in treasures of art — six family portraits
by Gainsborough and Sir Joshua Reynolds, Wilkie's
]iortrait of George IV., three landscapes by Claude, and
other paintings by Holbein, Rembrandt, Annibal
I'aracci, Van Dyck, etc., with the furniture given to
Monmouth by Charles II. The park, extending into
Newton and Inveresk parishes, and ringed by a high
stone wall, has a total area of 1035 acres, 130 of which
are occupied by a remnant of the ancient Caledonian
Forest. One kingly oak is 93 feet high, and girths 18^
feet at 1 foot from the ground ; whilst an ash and three
beeches, with respective girth of Vi'i, 17, 10;^, and 14^
feet, are 95, 110, 103, and 95 feet liigh. Landscape
gardening has done much to enhance the beauties duo
to an undulating surface and to the windings of the
rivers Esk, which iinite 7 furloiigs below tJie jtilace ; and
tJie formality in the ueneral disposition of the grounds
DALKEITH
and in the planting, that offended both Gilpin and
Stoddart, is ever softening with the lapse of years. See
William Fraser, The Scotts of BuccJeuch {Edinh. 187S).
Apart from castle and palace, Dalkeith has nothing
more notable in its history than Mr Gladstone's electoral
address of 20 March 1880. Connected ^\ith it by birth,
education, or residence were the poet, John Rolland
(flo. 1575); David Calderwood (1575-1650), ecclesiastical
historian; Archibald Pitcairne (1652-1713), poet and
physician ; the judge, William Calderwood, Lord Polton
(1661-1733) ; John Love (1695-1750), Buchanan's vin-
dicator, and rector of the grammar school from 1739 till
his death ; Alexander Wedderburn, Lord Longborough
and first Earl of Rosslyn (1733-1805), Lord High Chan-
cellor of England ; the historian, Principal William
Robertson, D. D. (1721-93) ; Henry Dnndas, Viscount
Melville (1742-1811) ; John Kay, the caricaturist (1742-
1826), for six years 'prentice to a Dalkeith barber ;
Ralph Wardlaw, D.D. (1779-1853), an eminent divine ;
Robert Mushet (1782-1828), of the Royal Mint ; and
Norman Macleod, D.D. (1812-72), who was minister
from 1843 to 1851.
Nor, apart from its church, has the town miich to
show in the way of antiquities — a few old sculptured
stones let into modern buildings, ' Cromwell's orderly
house ' in Chapelwell Close, and a fragment of a piscina
in an old house near the palace gate. The market-cross
has long since disappeared, but hiring fairs are held on
the last Thursday of February, the first Thursday of
April, and the second Thursday of October ; horse and
cattle fairs on the Thursday of May after Rutherglen
and the third Tuesday of October, and corn markets on
every Thursday in the year.* The Corn Exchange, built
in 1855 at a cost of £3800 from designs by the late D.
Cousin of Edinburgh, is a large hall, 172 by 50 feet, and
45 feet high, with open-timbered roof and a gable-front
to the High Street, adorned by a panel bearing the
Duke's arms. The Town-hall, a plain old building,
stands also in the High Street ; the Foresters' hall, in
Buccleuch Street, measuring 80 by 45 feet, seats 800
persons, and was erected in 1877 at a cost of £4700 ; and
the Combination poorhouse, for eleven parishes, at Gal-
lowshall, accommodates 121 inmates, and was built at a
cost of £4058 in 1849, being the first of such houses in
Scotland. Dalkeith has besides a post office, with money
order, savings' bank, insurance, and telegraph depart-
ments, branches of the Commercial (1810), the National
(1825), the Royal(1836), and theClydesdale Banks (1858),
a National Security Savings' bank (1839), 20 insurance
agencies, 6 chief inns, gas-works (1827), a working men's
club and institute (1867), a scientific association (1835),
a science school (1870), an agricultural society (1836),
Liberal and Conservative clubs (1879), a masonic hall, a
town mission (1846), a Royal Infirmary auxiliary society
(1841), a total abstinence society (1837), bowling,
cricket, and curling clubs, two papers — the Thursday
Dalkeith Advertiser and the Saturday Dalkeith Herald,
etc. The streets are fairly well paved, but the
drainage is very defective, as also was the water supply,
till in 1878 an arrangement was made with the Edin-
burgh Water Company to bring in a fresh supply from
the Moorfoot Hills, under their recent Extension Act,
the works being carried out in 1879 at a cost of £6000.
Ironfounding, brushmaking, and market-gardening are
the leading industries.
The old or East Parish church is of unknown date ;
but Pope Sixtus' bull of 1475 refers to the collegiate
establishment of St Nicholas of Dalkeith, consisting of
a provost, 5 canons, and 5 prebends, as having been
'founded and endowed from ancient times.' Second
Pointed in style, it consists of an aisled navs (78 x 53
feet), a choir (44 x 27) with trigonal apse, N and S tran-
septs, and a western clock -tower and octagonal spire 85
feet high. The choir, however, which, with its canopied
niches, is much more highly decorated than the rest of
* The weekly corn market was changed from Sunday (on which
it had been held ' past memory of man ') to Thursday by an Act
of the Scottish Parliament of 15S1, which also appointed the yearly
October fair.
22
DALKEITH
the fabric, has long been roofless, cut off from the nave
by an unsightly wall ; and forty years since nave and
transepts were ' choked with galleries, rising tier above
tier behind and around the pulpit — a curious example
of Scotch vandalism. There was, however, something of
the picturesque in the confused cramming of these "lofts"
into every nook and corner, in the quaint shields, de-
vices, and texts emblazoned in front of the seats allotted
to different guilds. The weavers reminded the congre-
gation of how life was passing " swiftly as the weaver's
shuttle," and the hammermen of how the Word of God
smote the rocky heart in pieces' (Life of Norman Macleod,
1876). Now, as restored by the late David Bryce, R. S. A. ,
in 1852, the church contains 760 sittings, and presents
a goodly appearance, but for the lack of the choir, in
which are two recumbent effigies, probably of James,
first Earl of Morton, and his dame, as also the graves of
the young Countess Mary and her sister, the Duchess of
Monmouth. The West Church, on a commanding site
above the North Esk, was erected in 1840 at the cost of
the Duke of Buccleuch, and is a cruciform Early English
structure, ■with 950 sittings, and a spire 167 feet high.
King's Park U.P. church, also Early English in style,
with 700 sittings and a spire of 140 feet, was built in
1869-70 at a cost of £3300 ; and Buccleuch Street U.P.
church, a Lombardo- Venetian edifice, in 1879, at a cost
of £8767. Other places of worship are Back Street U. P.
church (436 sittings), a Free church, a Congregational
church (300 sittings), Wesleyan, Baptist, and Evangelical
Union chapels, St David's Roman Catholic church (1854 ;
500 sittings), and St Mary's Episcopal church (1845 ; 250
sittings). The last, situated just -within the gateway of
the ducal park, is a beautiful Early English building,
comprising a nave with open roof, a chancel elaborately
groined in stone, and a S vestry. Back Street public
school, the new Burgh public school, and the Roman
Catholic school, \Wth respective accommodation for 204,
500, and 235 children, had (1880) an average attendance
of 107, 340, and 135, and grants of £94, 15s., £239, 10s.,
and £117, 9s.
Under the successive holders of castle and palace,
Dalkeith was for centuries a burgh of barony ; on the
abolition of hereditary jurisdictions, in 1747, the Duke
claimed £4000 for the regality, and was allowed £3400.
In terms of Acts passed between 1759 and 1825 twelve
trustees were appointed, of whom the baron-bailie was
always one ; but in 1878 the General Police Act was
adopted after repeated rejection, and the toi,\Ti is now
governed by a chief magistrate, 2 other magistrates, and 9
commissioners. Valuation (1882) £27,806. Pop. (1841)
4831, (1851) 5086, (1861) 5396, (1871) 6386,(1881) 6711.
The parish, containing also the village of Lugton and
the greater part of Whitehill village, is bounded NW
by Newton, NE by Inveresk, E by Cranston, SE and
S by Newbattle, and SW by Lasswade. Its utmost
length, from E to W, is 3f miles ; its utmost breadth,
from N to S, is If mile ; and its area is 2345^ acres, of
which IJ are water. The North Esk -u-inds 2| miles,
mostly through the interior, but partly along the Lass-
wade and Newton borders, till, near the northern ex-
tremity of the parish, it is joined by the South Esk,
which, entering from Newbattle, has a northerly course
here of 2 miles. As the river Esk, their united waters
flow on 1 furlong north-eastward along the Newtou
boundary ; and, at the point where they pass into In-
veresk, the surface declines to 100 feet above sea-level,
thence rising gently south-south-westward and south-
eastward to 182 feet at Dalkeith High Street, 300 at
Longside, and 400 near Easter Cowdcn. The rocks
belong to tlie coal-measures of the Carboniferous forma-
tion, and coal is largely worked, whilst an extensive bed
of brick and tile clay occurs at Newfarm and near Gal-
lowshall. The soil is generally a good deep loam, with
subsoil of clay and gravel ; and the rent of the land is
high, particularly tliat occupied by gardens. The Duke
of Buccleuch holds about seven-eigliths of the entire
parish, 2 other proprietors holding each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 31 of between £100 and
£500, 52 of from £50 to £100, and 113 of from £20 to
337
DALLACHY
£50. Part of Kestalrig deanery till 1592, and now the
seat of a presbytery in'tlie synod of Lothian and Tweed-
dale, Dalkeith is divided ecclesiastically into East and
"West parishes, the former a living worth £506. Two
schools under the landward board, Dalkeith public and
Whitehill colliery, with respective accommodation for
163 and 121 children, liad (ISSO) an average attendance
of 137 and 98, and tcrants of £128, 9s. 6d. and £36, 10s.
Valuation (1860) £23,847 ; (1882) £34,868, plus £2154
for raUways and waterworks. Pop. (1801) 3906, (1821)
5169, (1841) 5830, (1861) 7114, (1871) 7667, (ISSl) 7707.
—Ord. Sur., sh. 32, 1857.
The presbytery of Dalkeith, established in 1581, com-
prises the ancient parishes of Borthwick, Carrington,
Cockpen, Cranston, Crichton, Dalkeith, Falaand Soutra,
Glencorse, Heriot, Inveresk, Lasswade, Newbattle, New-
ton, Ormiston, Penicuik, and Temple ; the quoad sacra
parishes of West Dalkeith, North Esk, Rosewell, Roslin,
and Stobhill ; and the chapelry of New Craighall. Pop.
(1871) 45,099, (1881) 50,932, of whom 8990 were com-
municants of the Church of Scotland in 1878. — The
Free Church also has a presbytery of Dalkeith, compris-
ing the churches of Carlops, Cockenzie, Cockpen, Dal-
keith, Gorebridge, Loanhead, Musselburgh, Ormiston,
Penicuik, Roslin, and Temple, which together had 2688
members in 1881.
Dallachy. See Bellie.
Dallas, a village and a parish of central Elginshire.
Tlie village stands on the left bank of the Lossie, 11
miles SW of Elgin, and 84 SE of Forres, under which
it has a post office.
The parish, containing also Kellas village, 3J miles
to the ENE, is bounded N by Elgin, E by Birnie, SE
by Rothes and Knockando, W by Edinkillie, and NW
by Rafford. Rudely triangular in outline, it has an
utmost length of 10^ miles from its north-eastern angle,
near Lennocside, to Carn Kitt}-, at its south-western
apex ; an utmost breadth from E to W of 7 J miles ; and
an area of 22,024| acres, of which 122 are water. The
Lossie, issuing from Loch Trevie, near the south-western
corner of the jjarish, winds 154 miles north-north-east-
ward and east -north -eastward through the interior,
descending in this course from 1300 to 300 feet above
sea-level ; near Lennocside, at the north-eastern corner,
it is joined by Lennoc Burn, flowing 4 miles northward
along all the Birnie border, and forming a waterfall, the
Ess of Glenlatterach ; whilst Black Burn, another of
the Lossie's affluents, runs 3f miles north-eastward along
all the boundary with Rafford, thence passing off into
Elgin. LodisDanas(3i X 11 furl.) and Trevie (1 x ^furl.)
lie right upon the Edinkillie border ; Loch Coulatt (1 J x
1 furl.) falls just within Knockando ; and fifteen loch-
lets, tinier still, are dotted over the south-western in-
terior. From NE to SW the chief elevations to the
right of the Lossie are Mill Buie (1100 feet). Cairn Uish
(1197), Meikle Hill (932), Cas na Smorrach (1146), and
Carn Kitty (1711) ; to the left rise wooded Mulundy Hill
(708), another Mill Buie (1216), and Carnache (1179).
These hills are variously arable, planted, and heathy ;
the straths are well cultivated, and exhibit much natural
beauty. Granite is the prevailing rock, but sandstone
and grey slate have both been quarried ; the soil is
generally light loam on a gravelly bottom along the
J.ossie, a vegetable mould incumbent on till in parts of
tlic uplands, and moor or moss along the southern bor-
der. Tor Castle, J- mile N by E of the village, was
built in 1400 by Sir Thomas Gumming of Altyue, and,
lung the Cummings' stronghold, consists now only of
ruined outworks and a moat. The property is mostly
"lividcd among three. Dallas is in the presbytery of
I'orres and .synod of Moray ; the living is worth £188.
The present church, near the village, was built in 1794,
and contains 250 sittings ; its ancient, heatlier-tliatched
j)redece.ssor was dedicated to St Michael ; and a stone
shaft, 12 feet high, in the kirkyard, surmounted by a
fleur-de-lis, is tlie old market-cross. A Free church
stands J mile NE of the village ; and two public schools,
Dallas and Kellas female, witli respective accommoda-
tion for 140 and GO children, had (1880) an average
338
DALMELLINGTON
attendance of 85 and 27, and grants of £81, 9s. 6d. and
£18. Valuation (1881) £5542, 12s. Pop. (1801) 818,
(1841) 1179, (1861) 1102, (1871) 1060, (ISSl) 915.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 85, 1876.
Dallintober. See Dalintober.
Dalmahoy (Gael, dail-ma-thuat.h, 'field to the north'),
a mansion in Ratho parish, Edinburghshire, 1| mile S
by E of Ratho village, and 24 miles W by N of Gurriehill
station. Built partly in the early years of last century,
partly at subsequent periods, it has grounds of great
beauty, commanding tine distant views, and open to
strangers. The estate, having belonged from 1296 and
earlier to the family of Dalmahoy, passed in the middle
of the 17th century to the Dalrymples, from whom it
was purchased about 1750 by the seventeenth Earl of
Jlorton ; and Dalmahoy is now the chief seat of Sholto-
John Douglas, twentieth Earl of Morton since 1458 (b.
1818 ; sue. 1858), who holds 8944 acres in the shire,
valued at £9041 per annum. (See also Aberdour and
CoNA. ) Dalmahoy Crags, overlooking the Caledonian
railway IJ mile SSW of Dalmahoy House, rise to an
altitude of 680 feet above sea-level, stoop precipitously
to the AV, and constitute a grand feature in the general
landscape of the Western Lothians. Dalmahoy has an
Episcopal chapel, St Mary's.
Dalmally, a village in Glenorchy parish, Argyllshire,
on the left bank of the Orchy, near the north-eastern
extremity of Loch Awe, with a station on the Callander
and Oban railway, 24J miles E of Oban, 62;^ WNW of
Stirling, and 16 by road NNE of Inverary. Nestling
among trees, and at the same time commanding magnifi-
cent views of the basin and mountain screens of Loch
Awe, it is a favourite resort of anglers, and has a post
office, with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph
departments, an hotel, a Free church, a public school,
and a fair on the Friday of October after Kilmichael ;
whilst on an islet in the Orchy here stands Glenorchy
parish church (1811 ; 570 sittings), an octagonal Gothic
structure with a spire.
Dalmary. See Gartmore.
Dalmelling. See Dalmullen.
Dalmellington, a small toAvn and a parish on the S
border of Kyle district, Ayrshire. The town stands,
600 feet above sea-level, in a recess sheltered by hills,
at the terminus of a branch (1856) of the Glasgow and
South-Western, f mile NE of the Bogton Loch expan-
sion of the river Doon, and 9 miles SE of Hollybush, 15
SE of Ayr, 51 SSW of Glasgow, and 72 SW of Edin-
burgh. Dating from the 11th century, and a burgh of
barony, it was long little else than a stagnating village,
but in recent times has become a centre of traffic in
connection with new neighbouring iron-works ; at it are
a post office, with money order, savings' bank, and
telegraph departments, a branch of the Royal Bank, 4
insurance agencies, 2 hotels, gas-works, a reading-room
and library, and a public school, erected in 1875 at a
cost of £3000, whilst fairs are held here on the last
Thursday of February and the day after Moniaive, i.e.,
on the second or third Saturday of August. The parish
church, built in 1846, is a handsome edifice in the Saxon
style, with a lofty tower and 640 sittings ; and other
places of worship ai'e a Free church (400 sittings), an
Evangelical Union chapel, and the Roman Catholic
church of Our Lady of the Rosary (1860 ; 170 sittings).
Pop. (1801) 1299, (1871) 1514, (1881) 1453.
The parish, containing also the mining villages of Ben-
quhat, liurnfoothill, Craigmark, Lethanliill, and Water-
side, is bounded N by Coylton and Ochiltree, E by New
Cumnock, SE by Carsphairn in Kirkcudbrightshire, SW
by Loch Doon and Straiton. Its greatest length, from
N Wto SE, is 9^ miles ; its breadth, from NE to SW, varies
between 1^ and 4^ miles ; and its area is 17,9265 acres, of
which 144 are water. Locli D(K)N, with utmost length
and width of 5| miles and 6^ furlongs, lies just within
Straiton, 680 feet above the level of the sea; and, issuing
from it, the river Doon winds lOJ miles north-westward
along all the rest of the Straiton border, near the town
expanding into Bogton Loch (6 x 2\ furl. ), and receiving
Muck Water and other burns from the interior. On the
DALMELLINGTON
DALMEN7
Kirkcudbrightshire border, 4 miles SSE of the town, is
Loch Muck (5xl| fiud. ). Below Dalharco, where the
Doon quits Dalmelliugton, the surface sinks to 500 feet
above sea-level, thence rising eastward and south-east-
ward to 1103 feet near Hillend, 986 on Green Hill, 1426
on Benquliat, 925 on Craigmark HUl, 1521 on Bex-
EEOCH, 1333 on Benbain, 1107 on Knockskae, 1621 on
Bexbeack, 1760 on Wixdy Staxdakd, 1484 on Camp-
bell's Hill, and 1071 on Muckle Eritf Hill. A plain or
very gentle slope lies along the Doon over a length of
about 3 miles in the vicinity of the town, and, measuring
1 mUe in extreme width at the middle, has nearly the
figm-e of a crescent, narrowed to a point at both ex-
tremities. The surface everywhere beyond that plain
rises into continuous eminences or mountain ridges, of
which that nearest the Doon almost blocks its com'se at
the NW angle of the parish, and extends away eastward
as a flank to the plain, till it terminates abruptly, to
the NE of the town, in a splendid basaltic colonnade 300
feet high and 600 feet long. Two other ridges run
south-eastward and southward, and to the N are ad-
joined by a ridge extending into New Cumnock. The
hills, in general, have easy accli\dties, and in only three
places, over short distances, are precipitous ; yet they
form mountain passes of picturesque character, in one
or two instances of high grandeur. Two of the ridges,
on the way from the town to Kirkcudbrightshire, ap-
proach each other so nearly for upwards of a mile, as to
leave between them barely sufficient space for the public
road and the bed of a mountain-brook ; two others
which flank the Doon at its egress from mountain-
cradled Loch Doon, are rocky perpendicular elevations,
and stand so close to each other for about a mile, as to
seem cleft asunder by some powerful agency fi'om above,
or torn apart by some convulsive stroke from below.
The gorge between these heights, a narrow, lofty-faced
]iass, bears the name of the Xess Glen, and opens at its
north-western extremity into the crescent-shap^jed plain.
The springs of the parish are pure, limpid, and perennial,
and issue, for the most part, from beds of sand and
gravel. The rocks are partly eruptive, partly Silurian,
partly carboniferous. Sandstone, limestone, coal, and
ironstone abound. The coal belongs to the most
southerly part of the Ayrshire coalfield, is of excellent
quality, has been worked in numerous pits, and aflords
a supply not only to the immediate neighbourhood, but
to places in Galloway 30 miles distant. The ironstone
also is of good quality, and has been extensively worked
since 1847. Iron-works were erected in that year at the
villages of "Waterside and Craigmark, and had five out
of eight furnaces in blast in 1879. The soil, along the
river side, is chiefly a deep loam ; on the north-western
acclivities, is a wet argillaceous loam, resting on sand-
stone ; on the hills of the NE and E is moss ; and on
those of the S is partly peat but chiefly light dry earth,
incumbent on Silurian rock. About 1310 acres are
regularly or occasionally in tillage, 750 under wood, and
275 in a state of commonage, whilst about 1150, now
pastoral or waste, are capable of reclamation for the
plough ; and 150 at a spot | mUe below the to\\'n are
morass, resting on a spongy bed, and embosoming some
oaks of considerable si^e. An ancient moat, surrounded
^vith a deep dry fosse, and supposed to have been a seat
of feudal justice courts, rises on the SE of the toA\'n ; and
within the town itself an edifice lately^stood, which,
known by the name of Castle House, is said to have
borne date 1003 ( i), and supposed to have been constructed
with materials from a previous strong castle beyond
the moat. Another ancient structure, believed to have
been a place of considerable strength, and traditionally
associated with a shadowy King Alpin, surmounted a
cliff in a deep glen, and was protected on three sides
by mural precipices, on the fourth side by a fosse. The
Roman road from Ayr to Galloway passed through the
parish, and was not entirely obliterated till 1830. Three
very large cairns, one of them more than 300 feet in
circumference, were formerly on the hills. Dalmelliug-
ton figured largely in the Stuart persecution of the
Covenanters, and is rich in traditions respecting their
sufferings. Mr M'Adam of Craigengillan and Berbeth
is much the lai'gest proprietor ; but 3 otliers hold each an
annual value of £500 and upwards, 2 of between £10ft
and £500, 5 of from £50 to £100, and 25 of from £20 to
£50. Dalmellington is in the presbytery of Ayr and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth £212,
Dalmellington, Benquhat, Craigmark, Lethanhill, and
Waterside schools, with respective accommodation for
300, 203, 222, 292, and 585 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 137, 149, 181, 216, and 328, and
grants of £135, 8s. 6d., £123, 14s. 6d., £151, 13s. 6d.,
£150, 10s., and £292, 13s. Valuation (1882) £18,082,
plus £2987 for railway. Pop. (1801) 787, (1841) 1099,
(1851) 2910, (1861) 4194, (1871) 6165, (ISSl) 6384, of
whom 772 belonged to Benquhat, 525 to Burnfoothill,
383 to Craigmark, 1165 to Lethanhill, and 1473 to
Waterside.— 0/-rf. Sur., shs. 14, 8, 1863.
Dalmennoch, a small bay in Inch parish, Wigtown-
shire, on the E side of Loch Ryan, 3^ miles NNE of
Stranraer. It has excellent anchorage.
Dalmeny, a village and a coast parish of NE Linlith-
gowshire. The village stands 3 furlongs N by E of
Dalmeny station on the Queensferry branch of the
North British, this being If mile SE of South Queens-
ferry and 8| miles WNW of Edinburgh, under which
there is a post office of Dalmeny ; a pretty little place,
it commands from its rising-gi-ound a fine view over the
neighbouring Firth.
The parish, containing also the hamlet of Craigie, in-
cludes the island of Ixchgarvie, but since 1636 has
excluded the roj'al bm-gh of South Queexsfeery, which
it surrounds on all the landward sides. It is bounded
N by the Firth of Forth (here from 9 furlongs to 3|
miles broad), E by Cramond, S by Corstorphine in Mid-
lothian and hj Kirkliston, and W by Abercom. Its
utmost length, from E to W, is 4| miles ; its \vidth,
from N to S, varies between IJ and 3 miles ; and its
area is 6797^ acres, of which 16f are water, and 656
belong to the detached Aldcathie portion. The river
Almoxd winds 2J mUes east-north-eastward, roughly
tracing all the Midlothian border ; and Dolphington
Burn runs to the Firth through the interior, whose sur-
face nowhere much exceeds 200 feet above sea-level. It
is, however, charmingly diversified by the three rocky
and well-wooded ridges of Dundas, Mons, and Craigie,
and falls rather rapidly northward to the Firth, where the
shore-line, 4f miles long, is backed by a steepish bank.
The rocks belong to the Calciferous Sandstone series,
with patches of basalt intruding at South QueensfeiTy,
Dundas Castle, Craigiehall, and Hound Point, and a
larger one of diorite over much of Dalmeny Park. The
soil of Aldcathie and of the higher grounds is generally
a shallow clay, on a cold bottom ; but that of the slopes
and low gi'ounds is a fertile loam, whereon thrive first-
rate crops of wheat, potatoes, and turnips, as also the
luxuriant and pictui'esque plantations of the Earl of
Roseberv. Noteworthy are two ash-trees at Craigiehall,
which, 80 and 90 feet high, girth 10;^ and 16 feet at 1
foot from the ground. Employment, other than that
of agriculture and those connected with South Queens-
ferry, is furnished by recently-established oilworks.
John Durie, a learned divine and would-be uniter of
divided churches, was minister from 1648 to 1656 ;
and William Wilkie, D.D. (1721-72), eccentric author
of the forgotten Epigoniad, was born at Echline farm.
In 1C62 Sir Archibald Primrose, Bart., lord-clerk-regis-
ter of Scotland and a lord of session, late lord-justice-
general, purchased from the fourth Earl of Haddington
the barony of Barnbougle and Dalmeny ; his third
son, Archibald, was, in 1700, created Baron Primrose
and Dalmeny and Viscount Rosebery, in 1703 Earl of
Rosebery ; and his fifth descendant, Archibald Philip
Primrose (b. 1847 ; sue. 1868), holds 24,220 acres in Mid
and West Lothian, valued at £24,844 per annum (£2616
for minerals). See Rosebery and JIallexy. On 3
Sept. 1842, a very wot day, the Queen and Prince Albert
drove over to lunch at Dalmeny. The jiark is described
in her Joui'nal as ' beautiful, with trees growing down
to the sea. It commands a very fine view of the Firth,
339
DALMIGAVIE
the Isle of May, the Bass Rock, and of Edinburgh. The
grounds are very extensive, being hill and dale and
wood The house is quite modern ; Lord Rosebery
built it, and it is very pretty and comfortable.' On 16
Aug. 1877 Her Majesty again visited Dalmeny Park.
Other mansions, both separately noticed, are Dundas
Castle and Craigiehall. Dalmeny is in the presbji:ery
of Linlithgow and s}Tiod of Lothian and Tweeddale ;
the li\'ing is worth £434. The church, at the village,
contains 350 sittings, and, consisting of nave and chancel,
is the most perfect specimen of Norman architecture to
be found in Scotland. "Without, the chief feature is ' the
main entrance door in a porch projecting to the S, the
archway of which is supported on two plain pillars with
Norman capitals. There are over this door the remains
of a line, concentric with the arch, of sculptured figures
and animals, many of which are fabulous, and bear a
considerable resemblance to those which appear on the
ancient sculptured stones. . . . The interior has a fine
massive simple effect. The small chancel, lower than
the rest of the church, is in the form of an apse, con-
sisting of a semicircle with the arc outwards, under a
groined arch, the ribs of which are deeply moulded and
ornamented with tooth-work.' So wrote Dr John Hill
Burton in Billings' Antiquities (1845); and at Dalmeny
that able antiquary and historian was fitly buried, 13
Aug. 1881. Two public schools, under a common
school-board, Dalmeny and South Queensferry, with
respective accommodation for 160 and 275 children, had
(1880) an average attendance of 102 and 149, and grants
of £82, 7s. and £101, lOs. Valuation (1860) £11,404,
(1882) £17,251, 8s. 9d. Pop. of parish (1801) 765, (1831)
1291, (1861) 1274, (1871) 1492, (1881) 1643, of whom 612
were in South Queensferry parliamentary burgh ; of
registration district (1871)916, (1881) Wil.—Ord. Sur.,
8h. 32, 1857.
Daimigavie, an estate, with a mansion, in Moy and
Dalarossie parish, NE Inverness-shire, on the right
bank of the upper Findhorn, 19 miles SSW of Tomatin.
Its OAvner, .ffineas Mackintosh, Esq. (b. 1813), holds
7000 acres in the shire, valued at £489 per annum.
Dalmonach. See Boxhill.
Dalmore, an estate, with a mansion, in Stair parish,
Ayrshire, on the left bank of the river Ajt, 3 miles S of
Tarbolton.
Dalmore, a seaport village in Rosskeen parish, Ross-
flhire, on the Cromarty Firth, f mile SE of Alness station,
and 25 miles W of Invergordon. From Belleport pier,
J mile to the E, considerable quantities of timber are
shipped for the N of England ; and there are also a
distiller}-, a flour-mill, and a steam saw-mill.
Dalmuir, a burn and a village in Old Kilpatrick
parish, Dumbartonshire. The burn rises among the
Kilpatrick Hills in Cochno and other head-streams, col-
lecting which in the north-eastern vicinity of Duntocher
it thence runs 2^ miles south-westward to the Clyde.
The village stands on the burn, 3 furlongs above its
mouth, and 1| mile SE of Kilpatrick village, with a
station on the Dumbarton section of the North British,
9f miles NW by W of Glasgow, under which it has a
post office. Near it are chemical works and the huge
Clydebank shipbuilding yard and engineering works,
whli-li cover 30 acres, and employ 2000 men.
Dalmullin or Dalmelling, a place in St Quivox parish,
Ayrshire, If mile E by N of Ayr. A Gilbertine priory
was founded here in 1230 by Walter, Lord High Steward
of Scotland ; but in 1238 it became a cell of Paisley
Abbey.
Daimyot. See Du.vmy.\t.
Dalnacardoch, a .shooting-lodge (erst a stage-coach
hostelry) in I>lair Athole parish, Perthshire, on the
great Highland road from Pertli to Inverness, and on the
left bank of the Garry, 6 J miles WNW of Struan station.
Here Prince Charles Edward passed the night of 29 Aug.
1745 ; and here on 9 Oct. 1861 the Queen and Prince
Consort, travelling incognito, had ' a shal)l)y pair of
horses put in, with a shabby driver driving from the bo.\.'
Dalnaspidal (Gael, dail-an-spi'leal, 'field of the hos-
pice'), a station on the Highland railway in Blair
340
DALEY
Athole parish, Peri;hshire, within 5 furlongs of the foot
of Loch Garry, and 15f miles WNW of "Blair Athole
village. Near it is a shooting-lodge of the Duke of
Athole ; and, named after an ancient hospitium or small
inn, it lies amid a wild, bleak, alpine tract, where
numerous standing stones and cairns mark the graves of
persons who fell in battle or perished in the snow. A
party of Cromwell's troops, encamping here, were
attacked and worsted bj' the men of Athole and some of
the Camerons of Lochiel ; and here, on the night of 16
March 1746, Lord George Murray divided the force with
which he proposed to take Blair Castle.
Dalnavert, an estate, with a mansion, in Alvie parish,
Inverness-shire, near the right bank of the Spey, 1^
mile ENE of Kincraig station.
Dalness, a shooting-lodge in Ardchattan parish, Argjdl-
shire, on the right bank of the Etive, 5i miles NNE of
the head of Loch Etive, and 18 NE of TaynuUt. The
Etive here makes a very fine waterfall.
Dalnotter House, a mansion in Old Kilpatrick parish,
Dumbartonshire, adjacent to the Clyde, f mile SE ot
Old Kilpatrick village.
Dalpersie or Terpersie, a small old castellated mansion
(now a farraliou.se) in Tullyuessle parish, Aberdeenshire,
1 mile NW of Tullyuessle church.
Dalquhaxran Castle, a fine mansion in Dailly parish,
Ayrshire, on the right bank of Girvan Water, 5 furlongs
E of Dailly station, this being 7f miles SSW of Maybole.
Built about 1790, it was the seat of the Right Hon.
Thos. Fran. Kennedy (1788-1879), who sat for the Ajt
burghs from 1818 till 1884, and whose son and successor,
Fran. Thos. Romilly Kennedy, Esq. (b. 1842), holds
4142 acres in the shire, valued at £5941 per annum, in-
cluding £900 for minerals.
Dalquhum. See Renton.
Dalree. See Dalry.
Dalreoch, a quoad sacra parish in Cardross parish,
Dumbartonshire, with a station on the Vale of Leven
raihva}', ^ mile N by W of Dumbarton. Constituted in
1873, it includes the Dumbarton suburbof West Bridgend,
and is in the presljytery of Dumbarton and synod of
Glasgow and Ajt. Stipend £120. The church, in West
Bridgend, was erected iu 1871, and is a handsome edifice.
Pop. (ISSl) 3634.
Dalrigh. See Dalry.
Dalruadhain. See Campbeltown.
Dairy, a town and a parish in Cunninghame district,
AjTshire. The town stands on a rising-ground between
Rye and Caaf Waters, and at the right side of the river
Garnock, 3 furlongs W by N of Dairy Junction on the
main line of the Glasgow and South-Western railwaj',
this being 15^ miles SW of Paisley, 22i SW of Glasgow,
70i WSW of Edinburgh, Hi NW of Kilmarnock, 9 NE
of Ardrossan, 6if N by W of Irvine, and 17^ N by W of
AjT. A tract of countrj' around it was anciently under
special royal jurisdiction, and bore the name of the
King's District or Valley (Gael, dail-righ) ; and a field
on which its first houses were built was called the King's
Field (Gael, croftanrigh), a name that it still retains
in the slightly modified form of Croftangry. The parish
church, St Margaret's, dependent once upon Kilwin-
ning Abbey, and originally occupying a different site,
was rebuilt on that field about the year 1608, and gave
origin to the town. The site is eligible enough for a
seat of traffic and industry, and commands an extensive
southward and north-eastward view ; but, owing to
great freshets in the Garnock, the Rj'e, and the Caaf, it
sometimes has almost the aspect of an island. The
town was long no more than a petty hamlet, in 1700
comprising but six dwelling-houses, and about the be-
ginning of this century numbering barely 800 inhabit-
ants ; afterwards it rose somewhat speedily to the
dimensions of a smallish town, with a population of
about 2000 in 1835. Some nine j-ears later it started
into sudden importance as a seat of business for the
great neighbouring iron-works of Blair and Glengar-
XOCK ; and then assumed, along with its environs, an
appearance so different from what it had borne before,
that a visitor acquainted with it only in its former cor-
DALRY
DALEY
(lition woiild hardly have kuo\TO it for the same place.
Now consisting of twelve streets, it contains great
numbers of well-built modern houses and not a few ex-
cellent shops, and has a post office, ■with money order,
savings' bank, insurance, and telegi'aph departments,
branches of the British Linen Co., Clydesdale, and
Union banks, 16 insurance agencies, 4 hotels, gas-works,
town buildings, with library and reading-room, a Good
Templars' hall, assembly rooms, 3 woollen factories, a
worsted mill, an oil and stearine factory, etc. Thurs-
day is market-day, and a fair is held on .31 July and 1
August. A gravitation water supply, capable of afford-
ing 130,000 gallons per diem, has been introduced at a
cost of £9000 ; and in the centre of the town is a hand-
some granite fountain. The parish church was rebuilt in
1771, and again in 1S71-73, the present being a cniciform
Gothic edifice, with 1100 sittings, stained ^vindows of
Munich glass, and a tower and spire 124 feet high.
Other places of worship are the AVest Established church,
a Free church, a U. P. church (508 sittings), and St
Palladius' Roman Catholic church (1851 ; 500 sittings).
Besides a j^ublic school at Burxside and Kersland
Barony school at Dex, the 3 public schools of Blair-
mains, Townend, and AYest End (enlarged at a cost of
£3000), and Dairy female industrial Church of Scotland
school, with respective accommodation for 100, 296,
625, and 192 children, had (1880) an average attendance
of 44, 293, 476, and 166, and grants of £32, 13s., £263,
8s., £449, 6s., and £130, 3s. Pop. (1851) 2706, (1861)
4232, (1871) 4133, (1881) 4021.
The jmrish contains also the villages of Blair AVorks,
Burnside, Den, Drakemyre, and Riddens, with part of
Glengarnock. A^ery irregular in outline, it is bounded
N by Kilbirnie, NE by Beith, SE by Kilwinning, S by
Kihvinniug and Ardrossan, AV by AVest Kilbride, and
NAV by Largs. Its utmost length, from KXAV to SSE,
is 9 miles ; its breadth, from EXE to AA^SAV, varies
between J mile and 6| miles ; and its area is 19,361
acres, of which 77 are water. The river Girxock, com-
ing in from Kilbirnie, flows 6| miles south-by-westward
through the interior and along the Kilbirnie and Kil-
winning borders ; it is followed throughout this course
by the Glasgow and South-AVestern railway, and receives
on the right hand Rye and Caaf AVaters, and Bombo
Burn and Dusk AA^'ater on the left. The surface, sinking
in the extreme S to 85 feet above sea-level, thence
rises north-eastward to 239 feet at Muirhead, 334 at
Bowertrapping, and 357 near East Middlebank — north-
north-westward and northward to 302 near Linn House,
869 at Gill Hill, 1099 at Baidlaxd Hill, 1216 at Cock
Law, 1261 at Green Hill, 652 at Carwinxixg Hill, and
1378 at Rough HlU, whose summit, however, falls just
A\ithin Largs. The rocks are partly eruptive, partly car-
boniferous. Limestone has long been largely worked ;
and coal is mined of excellent quality, partly in seams
from 2| to 5 feet thick. Ironstone, of very rich quality,
began to be worked about 1845, when two farms which
had been sold to the Glengarnock Iron Company for
£18,000 were shortly afterwards resold to the Blair
Iron Company for £35,000. Agates have been found in
the bed of the Rye. The soil along the Girnock is deep
alluvial loam, and to the E of it is chiefly thin, cold,
retentive clay. In some parts to the AV of the Girnock,
it is an adhesive clay ; along the base of the hills, has
generally a light dry character, incumbent on either
limestone or trap ; and elsewhere is often reclaimed moss.
Antiquities, other than those of Blair and Carwinning,
are cairns and a moat near the to^vn — the Courthill
Mound, which, excavated in the winter of 1872, was
found to contain large deposits of human bones and
ashes. The Blairs have been lairds of Blair for wellnigh
seven centuries ; one of the line. Sir Bryce, was foully
murdered at Ayr by the English in 1296. Anotlier of
Dairy's worthies was Sir Robert Cunningham, physician
to Charles II. ; and Captain Thomas Craufurd of
Jordanhill (1530-1603), who gallantly took Dumbartox
Castle in 1571, spent the close of his life at Kersland.
The chief mansions are Blair, Gifl"en, Kirklaxd,
Linn, Maulside, Ryefield, Swindridgemuir, Swinlees,
and AA^'aterside ; and 8 proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 43 of between £100 and
£500, 32 of from £50 to £100, and 88 of from £20 to
£50. Dairy is in the presbytery of Irvine and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth £364. AA'^est and
Kersland Barony churches are chapels of ease. A^alua-
tion (1860) £70,893 ; (1882) £44,227 ; ^J^iW £6798 for
railways. Pop. (1801) 832, (1831) 1246, (1841) 4791,
(1851) 8865, (1861) 11,156, (1871) 10,885, (1881) 10,215.
—Orel. Sur., sh. 22, 1865.
Dairy, a village and a parish of N Kirkcudbrightshire.
The village stands, 200 feet above sea-level, on the left
bank of the Ken, near the southern extremity of the
parish, 3^ miles NNAV of New GaUoway, and 9| NAV
by N of Parton station, with which it communicates
t\vice a day by omnibus. Called variously Dairy,
Claughan of Dahy, and St John's Town of Dairy, it
offers a picturesque assemblage of houses, irregularly
scattered over a considerable space of gi'ound, with
gardens, hedges, and rows of trees ; at it are a post
and telegi-aph office, a branch of the Union Bank, a
good hotel, and a public hall (1858). Pop. (1861) 639,
(1871) 637, (1881) 585.
The parish was anciently one with Kells, Balmaclellan,
and Carsphairn, comprising the entire district of Glen-
kens, and had several chapels, all subordinate to a
mother church. It is bounded NAV by New Cumnock,
in Ayrshire ; N by Sanquhar and NE by Penpont,
in Dumfriesshire ; E b}- Tjmron and Glencairn, also in
Dumfriesshire ; SE by Balmaclellan ; SAA^ by Kells ; and
AV by Kells and Carsphairn. Its utmost length, from
N by E to S by AV, is 15 J mUes ; its breadth, from E to
AA'', varies between 1^ and 71 mUes ; and its area is
34,729| acres, of which 194 are water. In the extreme
N, close to the meeting-point of Kirkcudbright, Ayr,
and Dumfries shires, the AVater of Kex rises at 1870
feet above sea-level, and thence winds 21J miles south-
south-westward and south -south -eastward, mainly
along the Carsphairn and Kells borders ; it is joined by
Carroch Burn, Black AA'ater, Earlston Bum, and
other streams from the interior, and by Garpel Burn,
which rims south-westward along the boundary with
Balmaclellan. That with Glencairn is traced for 2;^ miles
by Castlefern Burn ; and in the interior are these four
lakes, Avith utmost length and breadth and altitude, —
Lochixvar (4|- X 2h furl. ; 770 feet), Knocksting
(IJ X li furl. ; 980 feet), Regland (1^ x ^ furl. ; 900
feet), and Knockman (IJ x ^ furl. ; 875 feet). At the
southern extremity, where the Ken quits the parish,
the surface sinks to 165 feet above sea-level, thence
rising northward and north-eastward to 559 feet near
Kirkland, 825 near Gordonston, 700 at Ardoch Hill,
1062 at Corse Hill, 1127 at Stroan Hill, 1262 at AVether
HUl, 950 at Mackilston Hill, 1127 at Gleushimeroch
Hill, 1154 at Lochlee Hill, 1188 at Fingland Hill, 1300
near Cornharrow, 1376 at ManwhUl, 1900 at *Benbrack,
1750 at Coranbac Hill, 1900 at *Ewe Hill, 2063 at
*Alwhat, and 2100 a* Lorg Hill, where asterisks mark
those summits that culminate on the borders of the
parish. Granite and trap are the prevailing rocks ; but
lalue slate occurs, and has been quarried. The southern
district consists in gi'eat measure of rich arable land
and fertile holms, interspersed with wood ; the northern
is all an assemblage of swelling liills and heathy moun-
tains. A pavement, found at Chapelyards, on Bogue
farm, in 1868, is thought to mark the site of a religious
house ; and besides several moats, cairns, and hill-forts,
there are remains of a stronghold on an islet in Lochin-
var, a trench — the 'AA^highole' — near the top of a hill
on Altrye farm, the Gordons' old tower of Earlston,
and, at the village, a large stone, known as St John's
Chair. David Landsborough, D.D. (1782-1854), poet
and naturalist, was a native ; so, too, was John Gordon
Barliour (1775-1843), author of several works, and
a friend of Hogg and 'Christopher North.' He is
buried in the churchyard, where also rest three mar-
tyred Covenanters. The old church was associated
with a Tam-o'-Shanter-like legend, and in it Grierson
of Lag stabled his troopers' horses ; whilst at this vil-
341
DALRY
lage originated the great Covenanters' rising, that ended
at Rullion Green. Three proprietors hold each an an-
nual value of £500 and upwards, 3 of between £100
and £500, 3 of from £50 to £100, and 13 of from £20
to £50. Dalrj- is in the presbytery of Kirkcudbright
and synod of Galloway ; the living is worth £337. The
]n-esent parish church was built in 1S32 at a cost of
£1400, and contains 700 sittings. At the village is also
a U.P. church (1826 ; 200 sittings) ; and Glenkens Free
church stands at Bogue, li nnle'to the E. Three public
schools— Corseglass, Dairy, and Stroanfreggan— with re-
spective accommodation for 37, 125, and 32 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 12, 105, and 10, and
grants of £27, 2s., £78, lis. 8d., and £25, 9s. Valua-
tion (1860) £7792, (1882) £13.275, 13s. 4d. Pop. (1801)
832, (1831) 1246, (1861) 1149, (1871) 1074, (1881) 988.
—Ord. Sur., sh. 9, 1863.
Dairy. See EDiXBuncir.
Dairy, Dalrigh, or Dalree, a place in the W of Killin
parish, W Perthshire, near StrathfiUan Free church,
and li mile SE of Tyndrum station. It was the scene
in 1306 of a sharp skirmish between Robert Bruce and
^lacdougal of Lorn, when the famous Brooch of Lorn,
graphically described in Scott's Lord of the Isles, and
said to be still in possession of the Macdougals of Dun-
oily, was torn from Bruce.
Dalrymple, a village and a parish on the SW bor-
der of Kyle district, Ayrsliire. The village, a pleasant
little place, stands on the right bank of the Doou, 9 fur-
longs SE of Dalr3Tnple station on the Ajt and Girvan
section of the Glasgow and South-Western, this being
4^ miles SSE of Ayr, under which it has a post office.
Near it is a pirn mill, supplying the Paisley Anchor
Thread Co. Pop. (1861) 261, (1871) 309, (1881) 300.
The parish, containing also Skkluon JIills, is bounded
NW by Ayr, NE and E by Coylton, SE by Dalmelling-
ton, S by Straiton and Kirkmichael, and W by May-
bole. Its utmost length, from WNW to ESE, is 7^
miles ; its breadth, from NE to SW, varies between \^
and 4| miles ; and its area is 7960 acres, of which 127|
are water. The 'bonny Doox,' running amidst alter-
nations of bold and wooded banks and fertile haughs,
winds lOf miles west-north-westward along all the Kirk-
michael and Maybole boundary ; and Loch ilAUTNAHAM,
»vith utmost length and breadth of 1\ and ^ mile, lies
on the Coylton border 290 feet above sea-level, and sends
off a rivulet south-westward to the Doon. In the interior
are Lochs Snipe (1-J^xi furh) and Kerse (3x1 furl.).
Where the Doon quits the parish, near Macmanniestou,
the surface sinks to 120 feet above sea-level, thence rising
to 305 near Balsarroch, 379 near Merkland, 417 near Ben-
ston, 533 at Laurieston, 545 at Knockshinnoch, 1112 at
Bow Hill, and 1406 at Kilmein Hill — little roiinded
eminences that command extensive and varied views over
land and firth to Arran, Ben Lomond, and the Grampians.
The rocks are partly eruptive, but chiefly Devonian and
carboniferous ; and limestone and ironstone are worked.
The soil on a few of the eminences is barren clay, on
most is argillaceous loam, and on the lands along the
streams and lochs is a sandy or gravelly loam. Some
1900 acres ai"e hill pasture or meadow, about 500 are
under wood, and all the rest of the land is arable.
The chief antiquities are remains of three Caledonian
forts and traces of the Roman road to Ayr. Dalrymple
barony, belonging in the 13th century to a family of
its own name, from which are descended the Earls of
Stair, passed in 1371-77 to John Kennedy of Dunure,
ancestor of the Marquis of Ailsa and Earl of Cassillis,
who is at present chief proprietor. Mansions are Shel-
don and Hollybush ; and 4 proprietors besides the Mar-
quis hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards,
2 of between £100 and £500, and 5 of from £20 to
£50. Dalrymple is in the presbytery of Ayr and synod
of Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth £394. The
church, near the village, was built in 1849. There is
also a Free church (1863) ; and Dalrj'mple public school
and the Dalmellington Iron-works srhool at Kerse, with
respective accommodation for 150 and 165 children, had
(1880) an average attendance of 129 and 135, and grants
342
DALSERF
of £107, 9s. and £101, 13s. Valuation (1882) £11,742,
lis. 8d., i)lus £4451 for railways. Pop. (1801) 514,
(1831) 964, (1861) 1325, (1871) 1412, (1881) 1362.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 14, 1863.
Dalserf, a Clydesdale village and parish in the Middle
Ward of Lanarkshire. The village, standing on the left
bank of the Clyde, 1 mile E of Ayr-Road station, 3 miles
ESE of Larkhall, and 7 SE of Hamilton, was formerly a
place of some size and importance, but has long been
going steadily into decay, and now consists of only a
few low-roofed cottages, situated among gardens.
The parish, which also contains the villages of Mill-
IIEUGU and Rosebank, and most of the town of Lakk-
HALL, formed anciently the chapelry of JMachan under
Cadzow or Hamilton, itself being known as Machanshire ;
and, having passed from the Comyns to the royal Bruces,
and from them again to an ancestor of the Duke of Hamil-
ton, was afterwards divided among junior branches of
the Hamilton family, and, probably about the era of the
Reformation, was constituted a parish, taking name from
Dalserf village. It is bounded NW by Hamilton, NE by
Cambusnethan and Carluke, SE by Lesmahagow, and
SW by Stonehouse. Kite-shax3ed in outline, it has an
utmost length from N by W to S by E of 5§ miles, an
utmost breadth from E to W of 3^ miles, and an area of
7035f acres, of which 79^ are water. The Clyde winds
4g miles north-westward along all the Carluke and Cam-
busnethan border ; Cander Water 2:^ miles north-north-
westward to the Avon along the Stonehouse border ;
and Avon Water itself 3| miles, also north-north-west-
ward along the Stonehouse and Hamilton border. Where
the Clyde Cjuits the parish, opposite Lower Carbarn, the
surface sinks to less than 100 feet above sea-level, thence
rising to 345 feet beyond Larkhall, 477 at Strutherhill,
576 at Canderdikehead, and 623 at Cander Moss, in the
southern corner of the parish, whose interior forms a
sort of plateau between the Clyde and the Avon. The
rocks are chiefly of the Carboniferous formation. Coal
abounds, and is extensively mined at Ashgill, Broomhill,
Canderside, Cornsilloch, Skcllyton, etc. ; ironstone is
known to be plentiful ; and sandstone, of quality to
furnish excellent building blocks, is largely quarried.
The soil, along the Clyde, is rich alluvium ; on the banks
rising steeply from the Clyde, is of various quality ; and,
on the higher grounds, is mostly strong heavy clay.
All the land, except a small patch or two of moss, is
either regularly or occasionally cultivated. The tract
adjacent to the Clyde lies almost in the heart of the
luxuriant range of the Clydesdale orchards, and was
famed for its fruit from ver}' early times ; but, o\\4ng to
frequent failure of crops and increasing importation of
fruit from England, Ireland, and foreign countries, has
ceased to be exclusively devoted to orchard purposes.
The dairy, on the other hand, for butter, cheese, and
fatted calves, has much attention paid to it. The Rev.
John Macmillan, founder of the Reformed Presbyterians
in 1743, lived for some time near Millheugh, and lies in
Dalserf churchyard ; and the Rev. James Hog, one of
the twelve vindicators of the famous Marrow ^Modern
Divinity (1721), was parish minister. The principal
mansions are Buoomhill, Dalserf House, and Millburn
House; and much of the property is divided between
the Hamiltons of Raploch and the Hamiltons of Dalserf,
the latter holding 3200 acres in the shire, valued at
£4700 per annum. Three other proprietors hold each
an annual value of £500 and upwards, 11 of between
£100 and £500, 19 of from £50 to £100, and 36 of from
£20 to £50. In the presbytery of Hamilton and synod
of Glasgow and Ayr, this parish is divided into the
quoad sacra parishes of LAiUvn.\LL and Dalserf, the
latter being worth £373. The church, at the village,
was built in 1655, and contains 500 sittings. Two
public schools, Dalserf and Shawsburn, with respective
accommodation for 202 and 300 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 198 and 189, and grants of
£191, 3s. and £168, 3s. Valuation (1860) £19,313,
(1882) £34,594, 8s. Pop. (1801) 1660, (1831) 2680, (1861)
4876, (1871) 7341, (1881) 9376, of whom 2674 were in
Ddhcvi quoad aacra parish. — Ord. Sur., sh. 23, 1865.
DALSHOLM
DALZIEL
Dalsholm or Dawsholm, a village in New Kilpatrick
parish, SE Dumbartonshire, on the right bank of the
Kelvin, 4;^ miles NW of Glasgow. It has a paper-mill
and beautiful environs ; and near it is an ancient artitieial
mound, the Courthill, supposed to have been a seat of
feudal courts of justice.
Dalskaith, an estate, with a mansion, in Troqueer
parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, 3 miles SW of Dumfiies.
Dalswinton, a small village, with a public school, in
Kirkmahoe parish, Dumfriesshire, 2 miles SE b}' E of
Auldgirth station, and 7i NNW of Dumfries, under
which it has a post office. Dalswinton House, 1 mile
SSE, and within ^ mile of the Kith's right bank, is an
elegant and commodious mansion, erected by LIr Patrick
Miller (1731-1815), Burns's landlord, on the site of an
ancient castle of the Comyns. This self-made genius
launched on an isleted loch (2x1 furl. ) one of the
earliest steamboats, with the most perfect success, 14
Oct. 1788. ' He spent,' says Carlyle, 'his life and his
estate in that adventure, and is not now to be heard of
in those parts, having had to sell Dals^^'inton and die
quasi-bankrupt, and, I should think, broken-hearted'
{Reminiscences, i. 129, 130). The estate, held formerly by
ComjTis, Stewarts, and Maxwells, is now the property of
William MacaliHue-Leny, Esq. (b. 1839; sue. 1867), who
holds 5724 acres in the shire, valued at £4282 per annum.
Dalton, a village and a parish of Annandale, Dum-
friesshire. The village stands on Dalton Bm-n, 6 miles
SSE of Lockerbie, under which it has a post office.
The parish, comprising the ancient parishes of Meikle
and Little Dalton, and annexed to Mouswald from 1609
till 1633, is bounded N by Lochmaben, NE by Dr3'fes-
dale and St Mungo, SE by Cummertrees, S by Ruth-
well, and W by Mouswald. With a very irregular out-
line, it has an utmost length from NNW to SSE of 5|
miles, an utmost breadth from E to W of 3§ miles, and
an area of 6941 acres, of which 55 are water. The river
Anxax ■\^•inds 4^ miles south-eastward along all the
Dryfesdale and St Mungo border, and its tributary,
Dalton Burn, twists and turns 5f miles SSE, ENE, and
N, through the interior ; whilst Pow Water, rising in
the S, passes off direct to the Solway Firth through
Ruthwell and Cummertrees. The surface, nowhere
lower than 150 feet above sea-level, is flat or but gently
imdulated over all the S and E of the parish, but in the
NW attains 604 feet at Butterwhat, 720 at Almagill,
and 800 at Holmains. The rocks are partly eruptive,
partly Devonian, and largely Silurian. The soil, in
most of the low tracts, is light alluvial loam ; in most of
the higher ground is sand and gravel ; and in some
parts is a cold clay on a till bottom, with a few patches
of reclaimed bog. About 600 acres are pastoral or waste,
500 or so are under wood, and all the rest of the land is
arable. AVm. Beattie, M.D. (1793-1875), biographer of
the poet Campbell, was a native. Dormont and Eam-
MEESCALES are the chief mansions ; and 3 proprietors
hold each an annual value of more, 5 of less, than £500.
Dalton is in the presbytery of Lochmaben and synod of
Dumfries ; the living is worth £283. The parish church,
built in 1704, contains 300 sittings ; and a public school,
with accommodation for 85 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 60, and a grant of £51, 17s.
Valuation (1882) £7077, 6s. 3d. Pop. (1801) 691,
(1831) 730, (1861) 679, (1871) 577, (1881) 579.— Orel.
Sur., sh. 10, 1864.
Dalton. See Lightburx.
Daltonhook, a place on the SW border of Dryfesdale
parish, Dumfriesshire. It has lime-works and vestiges
of an ancient strong tower.
Dalvaddy, a hamlet in Campbeltown parish, Argyll-
shire, 3 miles W of Campbeltown town. Coal of an
inferior quality is mined adjacent to it, and is conveyed
by a canal to Campbeltown.
Dalveen, a wild pass (1200 feet) over the Lowther
Mountains, from the head -streams of Powtrail AVater in
Crawford parish, Lanarkshire, to those of Carron Water
in Durisdeer, Dumfriesshire.
Dalvey, a place in Croradale parish, S Elginshire, on
the right bank of the Spey, 6 miles NE of Grantown.
Dalvey House, a handsome modern mansion in Dyke
and Mov parish, Elginshire, crowning a knoll, on the
left bank of the Muckle Burn, 2i miles W by S of
Forres. Its owner, Norman Macleod, Esq. (b. 1857 ;
sue. 1876), holds 1328 acres in the shire, valued at
£1357 per annum.
Dalwhat Water, a stream of Glencaim parish, W
Dumfriesshire, rising at an altitude of 1680 feet within
^ mile of the Kirkcudbrightshire border, and running 10
miles east-south-eastward, till, f mile below Moniaive,
it unites with Craigdarroch and Castlefern Waters to
form Cairn AVater.— Ord Sur., sh. 9, 1863.
Dalwhinnie, a station on the Highland railway in
Kingussie parish, Inverness-shire, on the Truim's left
bank, 1 mile NE of the head of Loch Ericht, 13 miles
SSW of Kingussie, and 58f NAV of Perth. Here are a
post and telegraph office and the Loch Ericht Hotel,
successor to an inn, which, built by Government, was
an important stage in the old coaching days, from its
vicinity to the Pass of Drumochter. At Dalwhinnie,
Cope held a council of war on 27 Aug. 1745, and two
days later Prince Charles Edward was joined by Dr
Cameron, bringing Cluny Macpherson ; at Dalwhinnie
inn, too, the Queen and Prince Consort, during their
' Third Great Expedition ' incognito, passed the night
of 8 Oct. 1861, supping off two miserable starved High-
land chickens, T\"ith onl}' tea, and without any potatoes,
and on the morrow receiving a visit from the present
Cluny Macpherson (pp. 165, 166, of the Quee7i's Journal,
ed. 1877).
Dalwick. See Da wick.
Dalyell Lodge. See Dalgairn.
Dalziel, a central parish of the middle ward of Lanark-
shire, containing the village of Craignetik, and, at its
western border, the greater part of the police burgh of
Motherwell, this being 2h miles NE of Hamilton,
124 ESE of Glasgow, and" 5| SSE of Coatbridge.
Bounded NAV and N by Bothwell, NE by Shotts, SE
by Cambusnethan, and SAV by Hamilton, it has an
ritmost length from NAA'' to SE of 3J miles, an utmost
breadth from NE to SAV of 2§ miles, and an area of
3085 acres, of which 45f are water. South Calder
AA^ater traces all the Shotts and most of the Bothwell
boundary as it meanders westward to the Clyde, which
itself flows north-westward for 2g miles, and again for 3f
furlongs, along the Hamilton border. Sinking beside
the Clyde to less than 100 feet above sea-level, the sur-
face thence rises eastward to 259 feet near North Mother-
well, 308 near AVindmillhill Street, and 322 near Middle
Johnston, and forms in the centre and towards the SE
a flatfish ridge or low plateau. The rocks, belonging to
the Carboniferous formation, abound in coal, ironstone,
and sandstone flag, whose working, conjointly with the
establishment of iron and steel works at Motherwell,
has led to the abnormal growth of population. The soil
on the low grounds along the Clyde is fertile alluvial
loam, and elsewhere is mostly a heavy yellow clay.
About 50 acres are disposed in orchards, and woods or
plantations cover 400 more. The Roman AA^'atling Street
ran through this parish from ESE to AA'"NW; and a bar-
tizaned summer-house in the grounds of Dalzell House,
commanding a brilliant view, was built in 1736 on the
site of a Roman camp. This Dalzell House, J mile
from the Clyde's right bank, and If SSE of Mother-
well, was built in 1649 by Hamilton of Boggs, two years
after his purchase of the estate from the Earl of Carn-
wath, whose ancestors, the Dalzells, had held it from
time immemorial. Described by Hamilton of AA'ishaw
as 'a gi'eat and substantial house,' it adjoins a much
older peel-tower, 50 feet high, with walls 8 feet in
thickness; its owner, John Glencairn Carter Hamilton,
Esq. (b. 1829 ; sue. 1834), possesses 2460 acres in the
shire, valued at £14,959 per annum, including £10,779
for minerals. Six other proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 16 of between £100 and
£500, 20 of from £50 to £100, and 26 of from £20 to
£50. In the presbytery of Hamilton and synod of Glas-
gow and Ayr, this parish is divided ecclesiastically into
Dalziel and South Dalziel, the latter a quoad sacra
343
DAMFF
parish constituted in 1880, its church tlie old parish
church (1789 ; enlarged 1860 ; 658 sittings) in AVindmill-
hill Street. Dalziel itself (a living worth £210) has
now its church in Merry Street, Moth eu well, under
which and Craigneuk other places of worship are noticed.
Five schools — Craigneuk, Dalziel, Jluir Street, Mother-
well Iron-works, and ^Motherwell Roman Catholic — with
respective accommodation for 666, 448, 400, 425, and 238
children, had (1880) an average attendance of 350, 433,
271, 473, and 317, and grants of £293, ISs., £340, lis.,
£150, 12s., £402, 13s. 6d., and £233, 14s. Another
Roman Catholic school, at Craigneuk, was opened in
ISSO. Valuation (1860) £21,956, (1880) £61,325, (1882)
£55,942. Fop. (1801) 611, (1831) 1180, (1861) 5438,
(1871) 9175, (1881) 13,864.— Orrf. Siir., shs. 23, 31,
1S65-67.
Damflf. See D.^^mph.
Damhead, a village in Arngask parish, at the meeting-
point of the counties of Kinross, Fife, and Perth, in
a vale of the Ochil Hills, 3 miles NN\V of Mawcarse
station, and 4f N by E of Milnathort. It has a post
office under Kinross.
Damph or Loch an Daimh, a lake of Lochbroom
parish, in the Coigaeh district of Cromart3'shire, 10
miles E of Ullapool. Hill-girt, and fringed with birch
woods along its south-eastern shore, it lies at an altitude
of 672 feet above sea-level, is If mile long from SW to
NE, and has an utmost width of Iq furlong. It sends
off a streamlet to the Oykell, and its waters are well
stocked with trout— Orr^. Sicr., sh. 101, 1882.
Damph, a lake in Applecross parish, W Ross-shire,
^ niUes E of Shieldaig. Lying among high mountains,
it measures 3^ miles in length by i mile in width ;
abounds in trout; and sends off the Balgay to Upper
Loi-h Torridon.
Dams, a village in Kettle parish, Fife, 14 mile S of
Kettle village.
Damsay, an island of Firth parish, Orkney, in Firth
Bay, 4 miles WNW of Kirkwall. Measuring scarcely
a mile in circumference, it is so beautil'ul as to have
been sometimes styled the Tempe of the Orkneys ; it
anciently had a strong castle and a famous church,
which have entirely disappeared ; and it now is used
for the jiasturing of a few hundreds of sheep.
Damsbum, a hamlet in Logic parish, Clackmannan-
shire, 1^ mile W of Alva.
Damside, an estate, with a mansion, in Auchterarder
parish, Perthshire, If mile NE of the town. Its owner,
Mrs Macduff-Duncan (sue. 1872), holds 353 acres in the
shire, valued at £491 per annum.
Damyat. See Uunmyat.
Dandaleith, a beautiful haugh in Rothes parish, Elgin-
shire, on the left bank of the Spey, with a station on
the Morayshire railway, 2^ miles SSE of Rothes village,
ami f mile NW of Craigellachie Junction.
Dane's Dyke. See Cuail.
Daneshalt or Dunshelt, a village in Auchtermuchty
parish, Fife, 1^ mile SE of Auchtermuchty town, under
which it has a post office. It is said to have got its
name from the Danes' first halting here in their lliglit
from Falkland Moor ; and at it are gas-works, a linen
factory, farina works, and a public scliool, which, with
accommodation for 83 children, had (1880) an average
attendance of 56, and a grant of £41, 15s. Poj). (1861)
567, (1871) 483, (1881) 414.
Danevale Park, a mansion in Crossmichael parish,
Kirkcudl)rightshire, on the left bank of the Dee, 2f
miles NW of Castle-Douglas. Its owner, "Wm. Renny,
Es<|. (b. 1849 ; .sue. 1879), holds 610 acres in the shire,
valued at £1036 per annum.
Dankeith, an estate, with a mansion, in Symington
jiarisli, Ayrshire, 4f miles SE of Kilmarnock.
Danna, an inhabited island in North Knapdale parish,
Argyllshire.
Danskine, an inn in Garvald parish, Haddingtonshire,
5.i miles SE Vjy S of Hadilington.
Dara, a livulet in the N W of Aberdeenshire. It ri.ses
on tiie southern confines of Alierdour jiarish, and, bear-
ing for .some distance the name of Idoch Water, runs
344
DABNICE
10 miles south-westward, past Newbyth and Cumines-
town, till, making a bend near the middle of Turriff
parish, it thence runs 3 miles north-westward to the
Deveron, a little below Turriif town. — Ord. Sur., sh.
86, 1S76.
Dara Den. See Dura Den.
Dardar, a ravine in Aberdour parish, Aberdeenshire,
traversed by an impetuous brook to the Moray Firth.
A cascade of three successive leaps occurs in the brook's
course, and in times of freshet makes a somewhat grand
and striking appearance.
Dargavei, an estate, with a mansion, in Er,skine
parish, Renfrewshire. The mansion, 1 mile SSW of
Bishopton station, was built partly in 1574, partly at a
i-ecent period ; and is in the French style of Queen Mary's
reign ; its owner, AVilliam Hall-]\Iaxwell, Esq. (b. 1847 ;
sue. 1866), holds 803 acres in the shire, valued at £1621
per annum.
Dargie, a village in Liff and Benvie parish, Forfarshire,
near ^lylnefield, and 4 miles W of Dundee.
Dark Mile. See Archaig.
Darleith, an estate, with a mansion, in the SW of
Bonhill parish, Dumbarton.shire, 3 miles N by W of
Cardross. Its owner, Archibald Buchanan Yuille, Esq.
(b. 1812 ; sue. 1879), holds 1292 acres in the shire,
valued at £845 per annum.
Darlington. See Stewarton.
Darmead Linn. See Cambusnethan.
Darnaway Castle, a noble mansion in Dyke and Moy
parish, Elginshire, in the valley of the Findliorn, IJ
mile W of that river's left bank, and 2i miles SSE of
Brodie station, this being 3| miles W by S of Forres,
under which there is a post office of Darnaway. Crown-
ing a gentle eminence, and overtopping a vast extent of
forest, it commands a magnificent view, and was built
about 1810, being a large, oblong, castellated pile of
very imposing appearance — a seat of the Earl of Moray,
M'ho owns 21,669 acres in Elginshire, valued at £9420
per annum. Of the castle founded here by Randolph,
Earl of Moray, early in the 14tli century, nothing is
left but the banqueting hall, which, forming a back
Aving to the modern mansion, measures 89 feet in length
by 35 in width, and has an arched oaken roof, somewhat
similar to that of the Parliament House in Edinburgh.
It contains a portrait of the ' Bonny Earl of Moray ' who
was murdered at Donibristlc ; and in it Queen Mary
held her court in 1564. The park is finely wooded,
upwards of ten millions of trees having been planted
towards the close of last century, to fill up gaps in
Darnaway Forest, which extends into Edinkillie. See
Moray, Dyke, Donieuistle, Douxe, and Castle-
Srv ART.— Orel. Sur., sh. 84, 1876.
Darnconner. See Dernconnek.
Darngaber, a village in Hamilton parish, Lanarkshire,
near Quarter Road station, and 3 miles S of Hamilton
town.
Damhall, a seat of Lord Elibank in Eddlestone par-
ish, Peeblesshire, on a rising-ground, ^ mile WNW of
Eddlestone station. Originally a Border tower, from
1412 the -seat of the Murrays of Haltoun or Blackbarony,
it was greatly added to in the first half of the 17th
century, and now is a massive square chateau-liko
edifice, with beautiful grounds and a fine old limetree
avenue. JIontolieu-Fox 01ii)hant-Murray, tenth Baron
Elibank since 1643 (b. 1840 ; sue. 1871), holds 2660
acres in the shire, valued at £2297 per annum. See
Eliisank, Ballkncrieb'f, and Pitiieavles.
Darnick, a village in Melrose parish, Roxburghshire,
near the right bank of the Tweed, 7 furlongs W of
Melrose town, under which it has a post office. Dar-
nick Tower, the chief of three peels that once stood
clustered here, and the finest specimen extant of its
kind, was founded by the Heltons about 1425, but,
razecl and cast down by the English in 1545, appears to
have been repaired or rebuilt in 1509 — the date of the
crest (a bull's head) above the entrance door. A massive
square tower, battlemented and corbie-gabled, with side
stair-turret, it still is habitable, and still is held by a
descendant of its founder, Andrew lleiton, Esq., F.S.A.
DARNLEY
DAVIOT AND DUNLICHITY
(b. 1827 ; sue. 1870), whose eousin and predecessor con-
verted it into a kind of Border antiquarian museum.
Scott coveted it sorel}% to make an armoury of it, and
from it was jestingly dubbed, by his familiar friends,
tlie Duke of Darnick. Pop. of village (1841) 280, (1871),
435, (1881) 371. See James Wade's History of ildrosc
Abbey (Edinb. 1861).
Damley, an ancient barony in Eastwood parish, Ren-
frewshire, 1^ mile E of Barrhead. It belonged for ages
to a branch of the house of Stewart, and in 1460 gave
the title of Baron to Sir John Stewart, who in 1488
became Earl of Lennox, and whose fourth descendant
was Henry Lord Darnley (1546-67), the husband of
Queen Mary. It still gives title of Earl (ere. 1675) to
the Duke of Richmond and Lennox, but by the first of
his line was sold in the beginning of the 18 th century
to the Duke of Montrose ; and, passing again by sale in
1757 to Sir John JMaxwell of PoUok, belongs now to
Stirling-Maxwell of Pollok and Keir. It gives a prefix
name to several seats of manufacture and other locali-
ties within its limits.
Daxnow, a hamlet, with a public school, in Kirkcowan
parish, Wigtownshire, 4 miles NW of Kirkcowan village.
Damwick. See Daenick.
Darra, a hill in the S of Turriff parish, Aberdeen-
shire.
Darrach, a conspicuous hill in the W of Denny parish,
Stirlingshire, an eastwai'd abutment of the Kilsyth
Hills that culminates, at an altitude of 1170 feet above
sea-level, 3f miles W of Denny town.
Daniel. See Glendaeuel.
Darvel or Derval, a village chiefly in Loudon parish, and
partly in Galston parish, Ayrshire, on the river Irvine, If
mile E of Newmilns station, this being 7^ miles E by S
of Kilmarnock. Regularly built and fairly prosperous,
it mainly depends on haudloom weaving and the manu-
facture of muslins ; and has a jJost ofliice under Kilmar-
nock, a branch of the Union Bank, gas-works, a Free
church, a public school, a working men's institute, and
a subscription library. The working men's institute was
erected in 1872 at the instance of Miss Brown of Lan-
fine, and contains an amusement room, a reading-room,
and a committee room, capable of transmutation into a
hall accommodating 500 persons. The lands of Darvel
belonged anciently to the Knights Templars, and were
independent of tenure, not even holding of the Crown.
Pop. (1841) 1362, (1861) 1544, (1871) 1729, (1881) 1718.
—Urcl. Sur., sh. 22, 1865.
Dava, a station on the Highland railway, at the
mutual border of Cromdale and Edinkillie parishes,
Elginshire, 8h miles NNW of Grantown, under which
it h as a post and telegi'aph office. Here, too, is a public
school. See Cromdale.
Davarr or Devar, a small island in the mouth of Camp-
beltown Loch, Campbelto^vn parish, Argyllshire. Rising
300 feet above sea-level, it has an utmost length and
breadth of 5 and 4 J furlongs, and serves as a natural break-
water to Campbeltown harbour, protecting it from wind
and wave. To the S side of the loch's mouth it is
joined by a sand-bar | mile long, bare at low water ;
and its north-eastern point is crowned with a light-
house, that shows a bright white light every half minute,
visible at the distance of 17 nautical miles.
Daven, a triangular loch on the mutual border of
Logie-Coldstone and Glenmuick parishes, Aberdeenshire,
^\-ithin ^ mile of Loch Kinord, and IJ mile NW of
Dinnet station. Lying 480 feet above sea-level, it has
an utmost length and breadth of 6 and 4| furlongs,
contains pike and perch, and sends off Dinnet Burn
rimning 2^ miles SE to the Dee at Mill of Dinnet.
Close to it are to be seen the remains of a native town,
which Skene identifies with 'Devana,' a name preserved
in that of the loch itself. See Abehdeex, p. 17. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 76, 1874.
Davids, St, a seaport village in Dalgety parish, Fife,
on the NE horn of Inverkeithing Bay, at the terminus
of the Fordel mineral railway, li mile E by S of Inver-
keithing. It has a good harbour, and exports immense
quantities of coaL
Davids, St, a village in Maddirty parish, Perthshire,
on the estate of Craig of ]\Iadderty, If mile S by W of
Madderty station. Founded by the late Lady Baird
Preston of Fern Tower, it superseded a decayed old
burgh of barony, and is a beautiful place, with a hand-
some endowed schoolhouse.
Davidson's Mains or Muttonhole, a well-built village
in Cramond parish, Edinburglishire, H mile WNW of
Craigleith station, and 3^ miles AVNW of Edinburgh.
It has a post office, wath money order, savings' bank,
insurance, and telegraph departments, a station of the
Edinburghshire police, the Free church of Cramond,
and a public school. Pop. (1841) 470, (1861) 599,
(1871)736, (1881) 740.
Davington, a hamlet, with a public school and a Free
church, in Eskdalemuir parish, Dumfriesshire, near
the right bank of the AVhite Esk, 16i miles NNW of
Langholm.
Daviot, a hamlet and a parish in Garioch district,
central Aberdeenshire. The hamlet stands 5 miles
NNW of Inverurie, this being 16:| miles NW of Aber-
deen, under which Daviot has a post ofiice.
The parish is bounded N and NE by Fyvie, E by Old
Meldrum, SE by Bourtie, SW and W by Chapel of
Garioch, and NW by Rayne. Its utmost length, from
NNW to SSE, is 31 miles ; its breadth, from E to W,
varies between 2^ furlongs and 3| miles ; and its land
area is 4454 acres. Lochter Burn traces aU the Bourtie
boi'der ; and, where it quits this parish, the surface
sinks to 200 feet above sea-level, thence rising with
gentle undulations to 401 feet near Lumphart, 415 at
the church, 513 near Wicketslap, 529 near Loanhead,
and 434 at Knowhead. The prevailing rock is trap in
the central higher grounds, coarse gneiss in the S and
E. The soil, on the lower grounds, is generally peat
humus on bluish clay ; on the slopes, is commonly a
rich loam or a strong clay ; on the higher grounds, is
gravelly and thin. About 3700 acres are in tillage, 180
under wood, 100 moss, and 150 either waste or very
slightly reclaimed. Three stone circles and two pre-
Reformation chapels stand or have stood within the
parish. Glack, with its lofty tower, is a conspicuous
object ; and other mansions, also separately noticed,
are jMounie and Fingask — 4 proprietors holding each an
annual value of more, and 4 of less, than £100. Daviot
is in the presbytery of Garioch and synod of Aberdeen ;
the living is worth £153. The church, built in 1798,
contains 400 sittings ; and a public school, with accom-
modation for 150 children, had (1880) an average at-
tendance of 101, and a grant of £92, 17s. Valuation
(1881) £5.532, 7s. Pop. (1801) 644, (1831) 691, (1861)
614, (1871) 597, (1881) old.— Urcl. Sur., shs. 76, 86,
1874-76.
Daviot and Dunlichity, a united parish of NE Inver-
ness-shire mainh', but partly also of Nairnshire, 388
acres at its north-eastern extremity belonging to the
main body, and 12,600 towards the S forming a detached
portion, of that count}'. The parishes of Daviot and
Dunlichity were united in 1618, but still are so far dis-
tinct as each to have its church, that of Daviot standing
near the Nairn's left bank, 6f miles SE of Inverness,
under which there is a post oliice of Daviot, whilst that
of Dunlichity stands 1 mile EXE of the foot of Loch
Dundelchack and 6f miles SW by S of Daviot church.
The united parish, then, is bounded N and NE by Croy-
Dalcross, SE and S by Moy-Dalarossie, SW by Boleskine-
Abertarff, and NW by Dores, the Farraline section of
Boleskine, Inverness, and the Leys section of Croy. Its
utmost length is 22g miles from NE by N to SW by S ;
and its breadth varies between 4i furlongs and 7:^ nules.
The river Nairx, rising towards the S of the parish,
winds 22J miles north-north-westward and north-north-
eastward, chiefly through the interior, but for the last
3i miles along the Croy and Dalcross border ; during
this course it descends from 2480 to close on 300 feet
above sea-level. The southern Nairnshire section is
drained to Loch Ness by the Faiugaig, formed by two
head-streams near Dunmaglass Lodge, and running 2
miles north-north-westward till it passes into Dores,
845
DAVO
Besides twenty-six tiny lakelets — eighteen of tliera
dotted over Drummossie Muir — there are, in the in-
terior, Lochs CoiRE (5 X 23 furl. ; altitude, 865 feet) and
Clachax (4 X J mile ; 683 feet), and, on the Dores
border. Lochs Buxaciiton (i x ^ mile ; 701 feet), DuN-
DELCHACK (3i[ miles X 1 mile ; 702 feet), and Ruthven
(9 X 2^ furl. ; 700 feet). The surface sinks, as we have
said, to close on 300 feet along the Nairn, and thence
south-south-westward the chief elevations to tlie right
or E of its course are *Beinn na Buchanich (1312 feet),
*Beinn a' Bhenrlaich (1575), Meall na Fuar-ghlaic (1552),
*Carn nan Uisgean (2017), Reinn Bhreae (1797), *Carn
Glac an Eich (2066), Cam Mor (1222), *Carn na Sao-
bhaidh (2321), Cam Doire na h-Achlais (206G), and
*Carn Ghriogair (2637) ; to the left or AV of the Nairn
are Drummossie Muir (874), *Creag a' Chlachain (1000),
Creag Dhubh (1450), Stac na Cathaig (1463), Garbh-
bheinn Bheag (1711), Beinn Bhuidhe (2329), *Carn
Odhar (2618), Beinn Dubh-choire (2261), *Meall Donn
(1560), Beinn Bhuraich (2560), and *Carn na Saobhaidhe
(2658), where asterisks mark those summits that culmi-
nate on the bordersof the parish. Gneiss, granite, Old Red
sandstone conglomerate, and black and blue bituminous
shale are the chief rocks. Numerous low sand-hills,
seemingly formed by flux and reflux of some great body
of water, are on both sides of the Nairn, extending from
Daviot Bridge, 2 miles higher up. ]\Iarl, to a depth of
from 5 to 6 feet, formed an extensive bed in Tordarroch
Moss, at a depth of from 5 to 7 feet below the surface ;
and was largely and effectively used for improving the
lighter arable lands. The soil, in some places, is light
and sandy ; in others, wet and spongy, on a clay bottom ;
in others, a black mossy humus ; and in many, a com-
pound of two or more of these. Daviot Castle, near
Daviot House, was built in the beginning of the 15th
century by David, Earl of Crawford ; a square three-
story structure, surmounted by round turrets at the
angles, and girt by a wall enclosing an extensive area,
and b}' a fosse with a drawbridge, it seems to have been
a place of great strength, but is now represented by only
fragmentary ruins. Dun-Daviot Hill, in the vicinity of
the church, appears to have been used, in times of danger,
as a signal station. Remains of ancient Caledonian
stone circles are at Daviot, Gask, Farr, and Tordarroch ;
and several ancient tumuli on the hills have been found
to contain funereal relics. Daviot House and Farr
House both stand on the left bank of the Nairn. The
former, 7 furlongs NNE of Daviot church, is a com-
modious modern mansion ; the latter, 6| miles SSW, is
partly old, paiily modern. Other estates are Brin,
FLifHiTY, and Dunmaglass ; and in all 8 proprietors
hold an annual value of more, 3 of less, than £100.
This parish is in the presbytery of Inverness and synod
of Moray ; the living is worth £356. Daviot church
(500 sittings) was rebuilt in 1826, Dunlichity (300) in
1758 ; and service is performed in them alternately, A
Free church stands 4if miles SSW of Daviot church ; and
5^ miles further SSW is St Paul's Episcopal church of
Strathnairn, which, originally erected in 1817, was
rebuilt in 1869 at a cost of £900, and contains 200
sittings. The five schools of Daviot, Dunmaglass, Farr,
Nairnside,^ and Strathnairn, the three first public and
the last Episcopalian, with respective accommodation
for 83, 50, 90, 90, and 150 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 34, 19, 37, 58, and 48, and grants
of £41, 12s., £32, 18s. 6d., £41, 7s., £48, 15s., and
£49, 10s. Valuation of Inverness-shire portion (1880)
£10,358, 8s. Id. ; of Nairnshire portion (1882) £1465, 10s.
Pop. (1801)1818, (1831) 1738, (1861) 1741, (1871) 1598,
(1881) 1252.— On^. Sur., .shs. 84, 73, 74, 83, 1876-81.
Davo, a romantic wooded ravine in Garvock parish,
Kincardineshire. It contains a quarry of excellent
buiMing red sandstone.
Davoch. See HAi.F-DAVAcn,
Dawan. Si(! Daven.
Dawick House, a modem castellated mansion, stand-
ing amid finely-wooded ground.s, in the NE corner of
Dmmmclzior parish, Peeblesshire, 2^ furlongs S of the
Tweed's right bank, and it mile SSW of Stobo station
346
DECHMONT HOUSE
this being 6^ miles WSW of Peebles. Held by the
Veitches from the 13th to the close of the 17th century,
the estate then passed to the lawyer, James Naesmyth
(d. 1706), who was known as the ' Deil 0' Da'wlck.' His
grandson and namesake, the second baronet (sue. 1720 ;
d. 1779), was the eminent botanist, Linnoeus' pupil, who
planted in 1735 the Dawick avenue of silver firs, and to
whom Scotland owes the introduction of the lai'cli in
1725. His great-grandson, the present Sir James Nae-
smyth of Posso, fifth Bart, since 1706 (b. 1827 ; sue.
1876), owns 15,485 acres in the shire, valued at £3557
per annum. On a knoll, 1-| furlong S by W of the
house, still stands the old church of Dawick parish
(suppressed 1742), which serves now as the family
mausoleum. — Orel. Sur., sh. 24, 1864.
Dawsholm. See DALSHOLir.
Dead Burn, a burn in Newlands parish, Peeblesshire,
running 3 miles south-south-westward to Lyne Water,
at a point 2i miles SSE of Linton.
Dead Loch. See Yarrow.
Deadman's Gill, a burn in the E of Mouswald parish,
Dumfriesshire, whose bank is traditionally alleged to
have been a place of execution.
Deadmen's Holm, a piece of alluvial flat in Tarbolton
parish, A}Tshire, opposite the mouth of Bloody Burn.
It and the burn are alleged to have got their name from
being the scene of some ancient massacre or tragedy.
Deadriggs. See Crosshall, Berwickshire.
Dead Water, See Castleton, Roxburghshire.
Dean, the ancient seat of the Boyds, Earls of Kilmar-
nock from 1661 to 1746, in Kilmarnock parish, Ayr-
shire, on a gentle rising-ground above the right bank
of Kilmarnock Water, 1 mile NNE of Kilmarnock town.
Dating from some very early period unknown to record,
it was destroyed by accidental fi.re in 1735, and is now
a massive picturesque ruin.
Deanbumhaugh, a hamlet in Roberton parish, partly
in Roxburghshire, partly in Selkirkshire, on Borthwick
Water, 7| miles WSW of Hawick, under which it has a
post office.
Deanston, a manufacturing village in Kilmadock
parish, Perthshire, on the swift Teith's right bank, 1
mile W of Doune. It presents an appearance greatly
superior to that of most seats of manufacture, consisting
chiefly of extensive cotton-mills founded in 1785, and
of dwelling-houses for the workpeople, but including
Deanston House ; and has a post office under Stirling,
a large school, a circulating library, and a savings' bank.
James Smith (1789-1850), as manager of its mills from
1807, made great displays of genius, and stands on the
roll of fame, among the Wattses and the Arkwrights
as a mechanician, among the Youngs and the Sinclairs
as the inventor of tliorough drainage, and among the
Howards and the Clarksons as a philanthropist. Pop.
(1841) 982, (1861) 727, (1871) 627, (ISSl) 700.
Deanston, Ayrshire. See Stewarton.
Dean Water, a small, deep, sluggish river of W
Forfarshire, issuing from Forfar Loch (171 feet), and
running 13J miles west-south-westward, through or
along the borders of Kinnettles, Kirriemuir, Glamis,
Airlie, Eassie, and Meigle in Perthshire, till it falls into
the Isla 1 mile N of Meigle village, after a total descent
of barely 50 feet. It abounds in pike, perch, and prime
tront— Orel. Sur., shs. 57, 56, 1868-70.
Deasthack, a burn in Kiltarlity parish, Inverness-
shire, running to the Beauly at Fasnacoil.
Dechmont, a hill-summit on the SW border of Cam-
buslang parish, Lanarkshire, 5h miles SSE of Glasgow.
The highest point of the hill-range that terminates
north-westward in Carmunnock, it has an altitude of
602 feet above sea-level, and commands a magnificent
view, whose beauties form the theme of a descriptive
poem by John Struthers. The Beltane fires long
blazed from its summit ; and on its slopes were formerly
many Caledonian cairns and suchlike structures, now
almost totally obliterated.
Dechmont House, a mansion in Livingstone parish,
Linlitiigowshire, 3^ miles WSW of Uphal'l station. Its
owner, Airs Jleldruni, holds 1200 acres in the shire
DEE
DEE
valued at £18G0 per annum. A little to the NE are
Declimont village and Dechmont Hill (686 feet), which
commands a very extensive prospect.
Dee, a river chiefly of S Aberdeenshire, but partly also
of Kincardineshire. It rises from tlie very bosom of
the Cairngorm Mountains, in the SW corner of Aber-
deenshire, close to the boundary with Banff, Inverness,
and Perth shires ; and runs first south-south-eastward,
but generally east-by-northward along the Braemar and
Deeside districts of Aberdeenshire, across a wing of
Kincardineshire, and along the boundary between Aber-
deenshire and Kincardineshire, to the sea at Aberdeen.
Its length, if one follows its windings, is 87^ miles, viz. ,
2J from the source of Garchary Burn to its confluence
\vith Larig Burn, 11^ thence to the Linn of Dee, 6|
thence to the Clunie's influx near Castleton, 9 thence to
Balmoral, 9J thence to Ballater Bridge, 13| thence to
Aboyne Bridge, 15| thence to Banchory Bridge, 17|
thence to the old Bridge of Dee, and 1§ thence to its
mouth in the North Sea. Its drainage area is esti-
mated at 700 square miles ; and from 4060 feet above
sea-level at the Garchary's source it descends to 1976 at
the Larig's confluence, 1640 at the Geusachan's influx,
1214 at the Linn of Dee, 1066 near Castleton, 872 near
Balmoral, 663 at Ballater, 397 at Aboyne, 296 at the
Bridge of Potarch, 102 at Drumoak ferry, and 72 at
Peterculter. Its velocity, above Castleton, is fitful and
various, ranging from cascade to current, from torrent
to pool ; but, below Castleton, averages 3^ miles per
hour, with a mean depth of 4 feet, and is so regular as
nowhere to furnish water-power to a mill. Its tribu-
taries partake of its own character, being mountain-
torrents in the upper part of the basin, and, in the
lower, gently gliding streams ; or, in some instances,
are impetuous first, next slow. Its waters are remark-
able for both perennial flow and limpid purity ; con-
tinue, a long way down its course, to be almost wholly
unafi'ected by any such circumstances as pollute most
other rivers ; and, even in its lower reaches where the
drainage of farms and villages runs into them, are com-
paratively well protected from defilement by skilful
methods of land drainage.
The Dee has been almost universally identified with
the Deva of Ptolemy, but the Latin editions prior to
1525 all read Leva, and Skene observes that ' the distance
both from the Firth of Tay and from Kinnairds Head
corresponds more closely with the mouth of the North
Esk than with that of the river Dee.' By Celtic
scholars Dee itself has been variously interpreted by
' dark ' or ' smooth ' or ' double water,' the last signifi-
cation referring to the river's two-fold soi;rce, in the
Larig and Garchary Burns. The Garchary, issuing from
Well Dee (4060 feet) between Cairntoul and Braeriach,
hurries 2f miles east-south-eastward to a confluence
with the Larig, which, itself rising from the Wells of
Dee (2700 feet) between Braeriach and Ben Macdhui,
runs IJ mile southward, and midway is joined by a
half subterraneous torrent rushing 1 mile westward from
its source (4200 feet) upon Ben Macdhui. And which,
then, is the veritable head-stream ? Dr Hill Burton
elects in favour of the Larig, as less desperately flighty,
more voluminous, and more in the line of the glen,
than the Garchary ; but, on the whole, the latter carries
the day, by its longer descent and very much higher
birth. The scenery of the meeting of the two streams is
terrible, wilder even than that of Glen Sannox, Glencoe,
or Coruisk ; and serves to explain how the influence of
alpine landscape has darkened the imagination of the
Highlanders, and given aspects of gloom and supersti-
tion to their traditions. Hogg, speaking of Ben Macdhui,
exaggerates nothing, but fails to give due force and
fulness to his picture, when he says —
' Beyond the grizzly cliffs that guard
The infant rills of Highland Dee,
Where hunter's horn was never heard,
Nor bugle of the forest-bee,
'Mid wastes that dern and dreary lie,
One mountain rears its mighty form.
Disturbs the moon in fiassing by,
And smiles above the thuuderstorm.'
A barrren and desolate region, of which, as a boy,
Hill Burton was told by Donald that it was ' a fery
fulgar place, not fit for a young shentleraan to go to at
all ; ' and of which, some forty years later. Hill Burton
wrote that, ' if we compare this defile to another of the
grandest mountain - passes in Scotland — to Glencoe —
we find a marked dill'ercnce between them. The scene
of the great tragedy, grand and impressive as it is, has
no such narrow walled defiles. The mountains are high,
but they are of the sugar-loaf shape — abrupt but never
one mass of precipice from top to bottom. Cairntoul
resembles those hills, though it is considerably more
precipitous ; but Braeriach is as much unlike them as a
tower is distinct from a dome.' Through this narrow
glen, then, that begins to widen below the Geusachan's
influx, the united waters of Garchary and Larig flow, as
the Dee, over a broken rocky bed in alternate sweeps,
rapids, and cascades, till, at a place 6| miles above
Castleton of Braemar, it forms a remarkable series of
small falls — the Linn of Dee. The Linn is a natural
sluice of rock, with rugged sides, and jagged, shelving
bottom, 300 yards long, and at one point barely 4 feet
wide — an easy jump. Through it the river shoots in
small cascades ; and it is spanned by a handsome white
granite bridge, opened in 1857 by Queen Victoria. The
river, about IJ mile below the Linn, begins to touch
some marks of cultivation ; but it soon afterwards
enters Mar Forest, through which it flows to some
distance beyond Castleton, receiving in it the Lui and
the Quoich from the N, and the Ey and the Clunie
from the S. It next traverses Invercauld Forest ; pro-
ceeds thence past Balmoral and Abergeldie ; receives
two small tributaries, from respectively the N and the
S, in the vicinity of Balmoral ; passes on to Ballater ;
and receives, in the neighbourhood of that village, the
Gairn or Gairden from the N, and the Muick from the
S. Its scenery between the Linn and Ballater is noticed
in our articles on Braemar and Balmoral, and its
scenery around Ballater and for some miles further on
is described as follows by William Howitt : ' The hills
are lofty, grey, and freckled ; they are, in fact, bare
and tempest-tinted granite, having an air of majestic
desolation. Some rise peaked and splintered, and their
sides covered with cUhris, yet, as it were, bristled with
black and sharp-looking pine forests. Some of the hills
run along the side of the Dee, covered with these woods,
exactly as the steep Black Forest hills in the neigh-
bourhood of Wildbad.' Meadow, cornfield, and garden,
however, begin to show themselves as one approaches
Ballater, ever more and more as the river rolls on towards
the sea.
The Dee, from a point about 3^ miles E of Ballater,
flows through a gradually widening valley, still narrow,
but with less and less of its former Highland character ;
and it forces its way through a comminuted compound
of granite, gneiss, porphyry, greenstone, and hornblende
debris, and receives on both banks numerous small tri-
butaries. It enters Kincardineshire at a point 3J miles
SE of Kincardine O'Neil, and, traversing that county
over a run of 9f miles, receives in it, on the right bank,
the tribute of the Feugh. Retouching Aberdeenshire at
the SW corner of Drumoak parish, it thence runs 14^
miles along the boundary between the two counties to
the sea at Aberdeen ; and, from the point of its entering
Kincardineshire onward to its mouth, oilers alternations
of tame hill scenery and beautiful lowland landscape.
From source to mouth it traverses or bounds the parishes
of Crathie, Glenmuick, Aboyne, Birse, Kincardine
O'Neil, Strachan, Banchory-Tcrnan, Durris, Drumoak,
Peterculter, Maryculter, Banchory-Devenick, Nigg, and
Old Machar ; and in our articles on these fourteen
parishes full details are given as to the villages, man-
sions, and other features of its course.
The Dee was once the most finely wooded and the
best fishing river in Scotland ; and, though much
damaged by entails, manufactories, and stake-nets, it
still, for wood and fish, has scarce a rival among British
rivers. Salmon contrive to force their way, up all its
currents and obstructions, to points above the Liun,
347
DEE
and, though not now caught in any such quantity as in
bygone days, are still taken in great numbers. About
20,'000 salmon and 40,000 grilse are caught in an average
season ; but these numbers include those taken by stake-
nets and on the beach adjacent to the river's mouth.
The best catch of the 1881 season was got about the
middle of July, when some 600 fish were landed in a
single day from the Pot and Fords. The finest reach of
the° river for rod-fishing extends from Banchory to
Ballater. Clean-run salmon have often been taken by
the rod so early as the 1st of February, in the waters
above Ballater, at a distance of 50 mUes from the sea ;
but they rarely ascend the Linn till after the middle of
May. As a rule they run small, 7 to 10 lbs. on an
average. The connections of the river with the water-
supply and commerce of Aberdeen, as also the diversion
of its channel, are noticed in our article on that city. —
Ord. Sur., shs. U, 65, 66, 76, 67, 77, 1870-74. See
chaps, xxiii. -xxv. of Sir Thomas Dick Lauder's Moray
Floods (Elgin, 1830 ; 3d ed. 1873) ; James Brown's Kew
Deeside Guide (Ab., 1843) ; and Dr John Hill Burton's
Cairngorm Mountains (Edinb. 1864).
Dee, a river of "W Kirkcudbrightshire, issuing from
Loch Dee, a lonclv lake that lies among the heathery
lieights of Minnigatf— Laraachan Hill (2349 feet),
Curleywee (2212), Craiglee (1741), and Cairngarroch
(1800). Itself 750 feet above sea-level, Loch Dee is 7
furlongs long and from 1 J to 4 furlongs ^vide ; its
waters are still well stocked with trout, which have,
however, been sadly thinned by pike, and which average
1 lb. in weight, though seven or eight years since a
monster of 12 lbs. was taken here. Leaving this
mountain lake, the Dee, or Black Water of Dee, Avinds
18^ miles east-south-eastward till, after traversing
Stkoan Loch, it is joined, just opposite to Parton
station, by the "Water of Ken, a stream of much larger
volume than its own. For the next 5 miles, on to
Glenlochar Lodge, their miited waters assume the aspect
of a long narrow lake — called, indeed, sometime a second
Loch Dee — that widens here to half a mUe, and there
contracts to barely a hundred yards. From Glenlochar,
on past the islets of Threave Castle and Lodge, our
river sweeps, through a rocky channel, llf miles south-
ward and south-south-westward to Kirkcudbright town,
thence 3 miles southward through a broadening estuary
to its mouth in Kirkcudbright Bay. It thus has a total
course of 38 J rniles, during which it traverses or bounds
the parishes of Minnigaff, Kells, Girthon, Balmaghio,
Parton, Crossmichael, Kelton, Tongueland, Kirkcud-
bright, Twynholm, and Borgue, and during which it
receives Cooran Lane, the Ken, and Tarf Water, with a
number of lesser tributaries. It is navigable to Tongue-
land, or about 7 miles from the Solway ; and it
sometimes rises in freshets to 8 feet above its ordinary
level Its waters, particularly before their confluence
with the Ken, are so mossy and dark-hued as to render
its name of Dee or ' dark stream,' and specially its
duplicate name of Black Dee, entirely appropriate.
Its salmon, too, are of a darker colour and much fatter
than those of most rivers in the S of Scotland, and are
held in high estimation ; its waters contain also sea-trout,
river-trout, pike, perch, and large quantities of pearl-
mussels.— Ort^. ,Swr., shs. 8, 9, 5, 1863-54.
Dee, Bridge of, a south-western suburb of Aberdeen,
on the river Dee, 2 miles from the centre of the city.
It has a iiost office under Aberdeen.
Dee, Bridge of, a village on the SE border of Bal-
maghie parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, on the right bank
of tiie Dee, with a station on the Kirkcudbriglit raihva}',
3 miles SW of Castle-Douglas. It has a Christian
Knowledge Society's school.
Deechoid or Deadh Choimhead, a hill (1255 feet) in
ihickaiiu ])arish, Argyllshire, 5i miles E by S of Oban.
Deer, a place in jlorton ]iarish, Dumfriesshire, near
Morton Castle, and 2^ miles N by W of Tliornhill. It
has remains of an entrenched strong fortification, sup-
posed to Jiave been a Roman castellum.
Deer, an ancient parish and a presbytery, partly in
Baufl'shire, but chiefly in Aberdeenshire. The ancient
348
DEER, NEW
parish was divided, about the year 1694, into the present
parishes of New Deer and Old Deer. The presbytery,
meeting at Maud, is in the synod of Aberdeen, and
comprises the old parishes of Aberdour, Crimoud, Kew
Deer, Old Deer, St Fergus, Fraserburgh, Longside, Lon-
may, Peterhead, Pitsligo, Eathen, Strichen, and Tyiie ;
the quoad sacra parishes of Ardallie, Blackhill, Boddam,
Fraserburgh West Church, Inverallochy, Kininmonth,
New Pitsligo, Peterhead East Church, and Savoch ;
and the chapelries of New Maud, Techmuiry, and Peter-
head Robertson Memorial IMission Church. Pop. (1871)
49,199, (1881) 54,420, of whom 14,052 were communi-
cants of the Church of Scotland in 1878. — The Free
Church also has a presbytery of Deer, with 2 churches
at Peterhead, and 11 at respectively Aberdour, Clola,
Fraserburgh, Longside, New Deer, New Pitsligo, Old
Deer, Pitsligo, Rathen, Strichen, and St Fergus, which
together had 2832 communicants in 1881.
Deer or South Ugie Water. See Ugie.
Deer- Dike, a substantial earthen fence along the mutual
boundary of Garvock and Laurencekirk parishes, Kin-
cardineshire. Probably part of an enclosure round a
deer-forest, comprising most or all of Garvock parish, it
continued tUl last century to be tolerably entire, and
still has left distinct traces.
Deer-Law, a hill (2065 feet) on the mutual border of
Yarrow parish, Selkirkshire, and Lyne parish, Peebles-
shire, 2 miles NW of St Mary's Loch.
Deemess, a parish of Orkney, comprising a peninsula
in the extreme E of Pomona and the islands of Copen-
shay, Cornholm, and Horse. Its kirkto^^Ti stands on
the E coast of the peninsula, 8^ miles E by S of Kirk-
wall, under which it has a post ofiice. Extending from
Moul Head south-westward to the isthmus that connects
it with St Andi'ews parish, and measuring 5 miles in
length by 3 in extreme breadth, the said peninsula is
bounded W and NAV by Deer Sound, E by the North
Sea, and SE by Newark Bay ; the islands lie from 1|
mile to 3 miles to the E. From the shores, which are
haunted by myriads of sea-birds, the surface of the
peninsula rises to a somewhat tabular summit. The
soil consists mostly of loam, resting on red clay, and is
highly susceptible of improvements, such as draining
and a liberal application of shell sand, of which there is
an inexhaustible supply. From 50 to 60 boats are em-
ployed in the herring fishery ; kelp is manufactured ;
and very strong ropes, fitted for various economic pur-
2)Ose8 of the farmer, are made from the shoots of Empe-
trum nigrum, from the roots of Arundo arcnaria, and
from the herbage of Holcus lanatus. Several tumuli
are on the higher grounds ; and remains of a large
Pict's house, called Dingy's Howe or Duncan's Height,
stand near the end of the isthmus. The parish is united
quoad civilia to St Andrews, from which, however, it
was separated quoad sacrain 1845; Deerness itself being
a living in the presbytery of Kirkwall and synod of
Orkney, with stii>end of £120, a manse, and 3 acres of
glebe. The church was originally a parliamentary
one. There is also a Free church ; and three public
schools — Deerness, St Andrews, and Tankerness — with
respective accommodation for 155, 55, and 80 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 92, 50, and 44,
and grants of £80, 4s., £41, and £33, 14s. Valuation
of civil parish (1881) £1976, 16s. 6d. Pop. of same
(1801) 660, (1831) 661, (1861) 831, (1871) 863, (1881)
867.
Deer, New, a village and a parish in Buchan district,
NE Aberdeensliire. The village stands towards the
middle of tlie parish, 2| miles WSW of ilaud Junction,
this being 13 miles W by N of Peterhead, 16 SSW of
Fraserburgh, antl 31^ N by E of Aberdeen, under which
New Deer has a jwst office, with money order and
savings' bank departments. Anciently called Auch-
rcddie, it includes at its south-eastern cutskirt a suburb
retaining that name ; and it straggles for over a 7nile
along the ascending ridge of a steepish liill. Within
recent years it has undergone great improvement, good
new dwelling-houses having taken the place of low old
huts ; and it has branches of the North of Scotland and
DEER, NEW
Aberdeen Town and County banks, 11 insurance agencies,
2 local savings' banks, 2 hotels, a market-place, a
public hall (1864), a children's library, agricultural
and horticultural societies, and fairs on the third
Wednesday of January, the "Wednesday after 12 April,
the Thursday before "26 May, the Wednesday after
19 June, the second Tuesday of August, the Wed-
nesday after 19 October, and the Thursday after 22
November. A public school, ^^'ith accommodation for
240 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 163,
and a grant of £139, 17s. Pop. (1861) 475, (1871) 643,
(1881) 753.
The parish, containing also part of New JIaud, is
bounded N bv Tj-rie, NE by Strichen, E by Old Deer,
SE and S by Ellon, SW by Tarves and Methlick, W by
Fj-vie and ilonquhitter, and NW by King-Edward.
In outline rudely resembling a triangle with south-
.south-eastward apex, it has an utmost length from
NNW to SSE of 12^ miles, an utmost breadth from E
to W of 5f miles, and an area of 26,765 acres. The
drainage is mainly carried eastward by head-streams of
South Ugie Water ; but the Burns of Elrick or Nether-
muir and AUathan or Asleed, flowing southward to the
Ythan, trace much of the eastern and western borders.
The surface, sinking to 197 feet above sea-level near
Tillysnaught at the south-eastern angle of the parish,
and to 196 near New Maud on the eastern boundary,
thence rises gently north-north-westward and north-
westward to 440 feet near Muckle Clofrickford, 540 near
Barrack, 503 at the Hill of Culsh, 529 near Corsehill,
619 at the Hill of Corsegight, 487 at Whin Hill, and
630 at Bonnykelly ; of which the Hill of Culsh, i mile
beyond the Free church, so far overlooks the surround-
ing country as on a clear day to command a view to
Peterhead, Bennochie, the Bin of CuUen, and Ben
Rinnes. The district toward the NE and the SE, to
the extent of 7 or 8 miles, looks almost like one con-
tinuous cornfield, dotted with green crops, and ter-
minated by a gentle rising-gi'ound in the form of an
amphitheatre. Granite is the prevailing rock ; but
limestone, of coarse quality, has been worked on the
lands of Barrack. Moss covers an inconsiderable area,
which yearly grows less and less, owing to plant-
ing, reclamation, or consumption as fuel. The soil,
with few exceptions, is light and shallow, and over
a great proportion of the land rests on an iron-bound
pan from 6 inches to 2 feet thick. Remains in the
mosses indicate the existence of a primeval forest ; but
now, except at Brucklay, Artamford, and Nethermuir,
the parish is rather poorly off for trees. Fedderat
Castle, 2§ miles NNE of the village, was anciently a
strong six-storied structure, surrounded partly by a
morass, partly by a fosse, and approachable only by a
causeway and a drawbridge ; but is now an utter ruin.
Ancient Caledonian standing stones, a rocking-stone,
and stone circles, in various places, have nearly all been
destro3'ed ; some tumuli have yielded urns and sarco-
phagi. At Brucehill, 2 miles W of the village, Edward
Bruce is said to have encamped, before he defeated the
Comyns at Aikey Brae (1308). Brucklay Castle
and Nethermuir House are the chief mansions ; and
10 proprietors hold each an annual value of more, 93 of
less, than £100. In the presbytery of Deer and synod
of Aberdeen, New Deer gives olf portions to the quoad
sacra parishes of Savoch, Newbyth, and New Pitsligo ;
the living is worth £380. The parish church, built at
the village in 1838, in place of an earlier one of 1622,
is a Third Pointed edifice, with 1500 sittings, and a
tower, completed in 1865. A neat Free church stands
3 furlongs NNW of the parish church, and Artamford
U. P. church | mile NE ; the latter, rebuilt in 1876 at a
cost of £1400, is Gothic in style, and contains 420
sittings. There are also another U. P. church at ^Vhite-
hill (3^ miles N), a Congregational chapel, and a few
Plymouth Brethren. Eight schools — Brucklay, Cairn-
banno. New Deer, Knaven, Oldwhat, Whitehill, Bonny-
kelly, and Honeynook — with total accommodation for
1029 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 569,
and grants amounting to £525, 6s. 6d. Valuation (1843)
DEEB, OLD
£10,905, (1881) £23,211, 4s. 7d. Pop. of parish (1»01)
2984, (1831) 3525, (1861) 4385, (1871) 4853; of regis-
tration district (1871) 4147, (1881) 4097.— Ore?. Sur.,
sh. 87, 1876.
Deer, Old, a village and a parish of Buchan, NE
Aberdeenshire. The village stands, 134 feet above sea-
level, on the right bank of South Ugie Water, \\ mile
SW by W of Alintlaw station, this being %\ miles
W by N of Peterhead, 3^ E by N of Maud Junction,
and 35 N by E of Aberdeen. An ancient place, it
has been mostly rebuilt within the past half centurj',
and has a post office under Mintlaw, a branch of the
North of Scotland Banking Co., a savings' bank (1825),
an inn, a fair (St Drostan's) on the Wednesday after
19 Dec, and two public schools, which, with respective
accommodation for 167 scholars and 81 girls, had (1880)
an average attendance of 119 and 58, and grants of
£92, 15s. and £52, 14s.
The parish also contains the villages of Stuartfield,
Clola, and Fetterangus, \\ mile S by W, 3| miles SSE,
and 2J miles NNE, of Old Deer village. Its north-
eastern portion forming a detached section of Banfl'-
shire, it is bounded N W and N by Strichen, NE by Lon-
may, E by Longside, SE by Cruden, S by Cruden and
Ellon, and W by New Deer. Its utmost length, from
N to S, is 9 J miles ; its breadth, from E to W, varies
between 4 and 6| miles ; and its area is 27, 439 J acres,
of which 2812 belong to the Banffshire portion. South
Ugie Water has here an east-south-easterly course of 6^
miles ; North Ugie Water winds 7 miles east-south-
eastward along all the northern and north-eastern
border ; and before Pitfour House is an artificial lake of
45 acres (3§ x 1 furl.); whilst springs, either pure or
chalybeate, are numerous, and some of them bear such
names as Grinie's, Lady, Abbey, Chapel, and Annie's
Well. The sm-face, everywhere undulating, presents an
assemblage of low rounded hills, most of them culti-
vated to the very top ; at Baluss Bridge, on the eastern
border, it sinks to 100 feet above sea-level, and rises
thence north-westward to 397 feet at Drinnies AVood,
410 at Knapperty Hill, 432 at Braeside, and 466 at
White Cow Wood — westward and south-westward to
292 at Wuddyhill, 460 at Wind Hill, 551 at the HUl of
Dens, 465 near Bulwark, 423 near Little Elrick, 407
near Littlemill, 420 at Slampton Hill, and 392 at
Windy Hill — south-south-westward and south-south-
eastward to 474 at Skelmuir Hill, 478 near Wester
Craighead, and 469 at Smallburn Hill. The prevailing
rocks are granite, syenite, and limestone, which have
been largely worked at Aikey Brae and other places ;
and blocks occur of gneiss and pure white quartz. The
soil is very diversified, ranging from argillaceous to
loamy, sandy, or gravelly. The woods and plantations
of Aden, Pitfour, and Kinmundy cover a large extent,
and those of the two first comprise some very fine hard-
wood trees. Woollen mills are at MUlbreck and Aden, a
brewery and a distillery at Biffie. About 580 Columba
and Drostan,hisnephew, came from lona unto Aberdour,
and thence to the other town, which pleased Columba,
because it was full of God's grace ; and he asked of the
Mormaer Bede to give it him, and he would not. But,
his son falling sick, the Mormaer went to the clerics to
ask a prayer of them, and gave them in offering from
Cloch in tiprat to Clock pette mic Garnait. They
made the prayer and health returned. Then Columba
gave Drostan that cathair, and blessed it, and left as his
word, ' Whosoever come against it, let him not be many-
yeared victorious.' Drostan weeping as the}' parted,
said Columba, 'Let Deer* be its name henceforward.'
Dowai to the reign of David I. (1124-53) this Columban
monastery retained unimpaired its clerical element and
Celtic character, according to the priceless testimony of
certain Gaelic notices written during that reign on the
blank pages of the Book of Deer, a Latin MS. of the 9tli
century containing St John's and parts of the other three
gospels, the Apostles' Creed, and a fragment of an office
for the vi-sitation of the sick, which MS. , discovered by
* I.e., Gael, der, now deiir, 'a tear.' Dair, 'an oak,' has been
suggested as a more likely etymon.
349
DEEE, SAVOCH OF
Mr H. Bradshaw in 1S60 in the library of Cambridge
Uuiversitv, was ably edited for the Spalding Club by the
late Dr John Stuart in 1S69 (Skene's Celtic Scotland,
vols, ii., iii., 1877-SO). St Mary's Abbey of Deer, on the
left bank of South Ugie Water, % mile WNW of the
village, was founded, either in 1218 or 1219, by William
Comyu, Earl of Buchan, for monks of the Cistercian
order, being colonised by three brethren from KjTiloss ;
the last of its abbots, Robert Keith, second son of the
fourth Earl Marischal, obtained the erection of its lands
into the temporal lordship of Altrie (15S7). Early
English in style, red sandstone in material, the ruins
were enclosed and cleared of rubbish in 1809, when it
appeared that the cruciform church must have consisted
of chancel, transept, and five-bayed nave with N aisle,
the whole measuring 150 by from 27 to 38^ feet, or 90
across the transept. Here has been localised the ballad
of ' Sir James the Rose,' whose grave is also shown at
Haddo in Crimond ; on Aikey 13rae the Comyns were
finally routed by Edward Bruce ; and by Aikey-side one
of their line, an Earl of Buchan, is said, by his death,
whilst hunting, to have verified Thomas the Rhymer's
prediction. Vestiges remain of six stone circles ; several
cairns have j-ielded stone cists and m-ns ; flint imple-
ments have been found in great abundance ; and other
antiquities are the ruinous manor-house of Clachriach
and remains of the small old parish church of Fetter
angus. The Stone of Deer, a syenite block standing 6
Itet out of the ground at the NW corner of the old
Abbey church, is figured in the Sculptured Stones of
Scotland (1867), but was demolished about 1854. The
principal mansions are Pitfouk, Kinmuxdt, and Aden,
the last a good modern buUding, 3 furlongs ENE of the
village, whose o^vner, Jas. Geo. Ferguson Russell, Esq.
(b. 1836 ; sue. 1875), holds 8402 acres in the shire,
valued at £6989 per annum. The rest of the parish is
divided among 16 proprietors, 10 holding each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 1 of between £100 and
£500, 1 of from £50 to £100, and 4 of from £20 to £50.
In the presbytery of Deer and synod of Aberdeen, Old
Deer gives olf portions to the q. s. parishes of Ardallie,
Kintnmonth, and Savoch of Deer ; the living is worth
£388. The parish church, with over 1000 sittings, stands
at the village, and, built in 1788, was greatly improved
(1880-81) at a cost of £2811, the walls being raised,
an entrance porch added, a memorial window inserted,
and a clock-tower and spire, 103 feet high, erected of
Aikey Brae granite, with a library room on its basement
floor. At the village also is St Drostan's Episcopal
church (1851 ; 300 sittings). Early English in style, and
lich in painted glass ; other places of worship are
noticed under Stuartfield, Maud, and Clola. SLx
schools, all public but the last, which is endowed, are
at Bank, Clochcan, Bulwark, Shannas, Stuartfield
(girls'), and Fetterangus (do.) ; and these, with respec-
tive accommodation for 100, 110, 62, 110, 140, and 76
children, had (1880) an average attendance of 61, 107, 43,
94, 130, and 69, and grants of £.jO, 8s. 6d., £72, Is.,
£33, 19s., £73, 9s., £100, 6s., and £61. 4s. 6d. Valua-
tion (1843) £13,165, (1882) £30.372, 12^. lOd. Pop. of
civil parish (1801) 3552, (1821) 3841, (1841) 4453, (1861)
5174, (1871) 5085, (1881) 4935 ; of registration district
(ISSl) 4274.— O/tZ. Sur., sh. 87, 1876.
Deer, Savoch of. See Savoch.
Deershaw, a village in the N of Banffshire, distant
6 miles trom Banlf.
Deer Sound, a spacious natural harbour on the E
side of the Mainland of Orkney, entering from Stronsay
Firth, and separating the parish of Deerness from that
of St Andrews. Lying nearly due SW and NE, and
measuring 4 miles in length, by from 1 mile to 2^
miles in breadth, it has beautifully winding shores, a
clean sandy bottom mi.ved with clay, and a depth of 6
or 7 fathoms. It is well sheltered from all winds, and
affords in many parts good anchorage. Any number of
vessels might liere find refuge ; and it was formerly
frequented by whaling ships on their way to the Arctic
seas, but is now very little used.
Deeside, the valley of the Aberdeenshire Dee, or,
.'<jO
DELTING
more specially, the part of that valley downward from
Braemar to the sea.
Deil's Beef-Tub. See Axnaxdale's Beef-Stand.
Deil's Cauldron. See Devil's Cauldron.
Deil's Causeway. See Stonehouse.
Deil's or Plots' Dyke, a long line of ancient fortifica-
tion in Galloway and Dumfriesshire, commencing at Loch
Ryan near lunermessan, the site of the ancient Rerigo-
nium, a town of the Novantae, and extending, by way
of MiuuigaQ', Glencairn, Penpont, and Lochmaben, to
the upper part of the Solway Firth at a point opposite
the western extremity of the Roman wall of Hadrian
across the N of England. It is now quite obliterated in
many parts, and more or less obscm-e in many others, but
still in some is very distinct. It appears to have been
invariably 8 feet broad at the base, to have had a fosse
along its N or inland side, and to have been built, in
most places, of unchiselled blocks of common moorstone ;
in others, of stone and earth commingled ; and in a few, as
at Hightae Flow in Lochmaben parish, entirelj' of earth.
It separates the fertile lands of the seaboard districts
from the irreclaimable wastes and \v\\A fastnesses of the
mountains, and may be presumed to have been built by
an industrious or comparatively settled people on its
southern, as a defence against a warlike or comparatively
roving people on its northern, side. All facts respecting
it, however, even all trustworthy traditions, have been
lost. Chalmers, the author of Caledonia, says, in a letter
to Mr Joseph Train, who traced the Deil's Dyke from
end to end : — ' Considering all its circumstances, it is
extremely difiicult to assign its age, its object, or its
builders. In Ireland there is nothing like the Deil's
Dike ; the inference is that it was not made by Irish
hands. I am disposed to think that this work is several
centuries older than the arrival of the Irish Cruithne
in Galloway.' And again: — 'It is obviously a very
ancient work, and was probably formed by the Romanised
Britons after the departure of the Roman armies. ' — Ord.
Sur., shs. 3, 4, 8, 9, 10, 6, 1856-64.
Deil's Dyke, a denudated trap dyke projecting from the
general line of the SE coast of Big Cumbrae island in
Buteshire. See Cujibrae.
Deil's Mill. See Devil's Mill.
Delfour, a place, with ancient Caledonian monuments,
in Alvie parish, Inverness-shire, 1| mile WSW of Alvie
church. The monuments are a central cairn, two con-
centric circles of standing stones around the caii-n, and
an obelisk, 8^ feet high, 25 feet to the W.
Delgaty Castle. See Dalgety.
Delney, a station on the Highland railway, in Kilmuir
Easter parish, Ross-shire, 3^ miles NE of Invergordon.
DeLnies. See Nairn.
Deloraine, two pasture farms in Kirkhope parish,
Selkirkshire, 13 miles SW of Selkirk. The title of Earl
of Deloraine in the peerage of Scotland was conferred in
1706 on Henry Scott, second surviving son of the Duke
of Monmouth, and became extinct at the death of his
grandson, the fourth Earl, in 1807.
Delting, a parish in the Mainland of Shetland, in-
cluding the islands of Bigga, Fishholm, Brother Isle,
Little Roe, and Jluckle Roe, only the last of which is
inhabited. It is bounded N by Yell Sound, separating
it from Yell ; E by Lunnasting and Nesting ; S by
Weesdale and Sandsting ; and W by St Magnus Bay
and Sulein Voe. Joined to Northmaven by a narrow
neck of land, less than 100 feet broad, that seimrates
the German from the Atlantic Ocean, it has an utmost
length of 20 miles, and varies in breadth from 3 to 6
miles, being much intersected by voes or arms of the
sea. The surface is, for the most part, hilly, bleak,
and barren ; but along the banks of the voes and in
the valleys are patches of good arable land. The chief
harbours are St Magnus Bay, Sulem Voe, Olnafirth
Voe, Busta Voe, and Goufirth Voe. In the island of
iluckle Roe there is some fine rock scenery ; and the
sea washes into several large caves — the haunts of
numerous wild birds. There are remains of an ancient
artificial harbour at Burravoe, and some vestiges of
a I'ictish house at Brough, on Yell Sound. Fully
DELVINE
one-half of the parish belongs to the estate of the
Gitfords of Busta. The next largest proprietor is
Major Cameron of Garth. The other properties are
small. The principal residences are Busta, Garth,
Udhouse, Mossbank, and Voe. There are large stores
and fish-curing establishments at Voe, Brae, and Moss-
bank. Delting is in the presbytery of Olnafirth and
synod of Shetland ; the stipend is £150, with 9 merks
of glebe and a good manse. There are two parish
churches, distant about 10 miles fi'om one another, viz.,
Scatsta, built in 1811, and Olnafirth in 1868. There
are also a Free church at Brae and a U.P. church at
Mossbank ; and the six schools of Brae, Goufirth,
Firth, Muckle Roe, Olnafirth, and Mossbank, with
total accommodation for 254 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of -164, and grants amounting to
£201, 14s. Valuation (1882) £2361, 12s. 8d. Pop.
(1801) 1449, (1831) 2070, (1861) 1975, (1871) 1862,
(1881) 1654.
Delvine, an estate, with a mansion, in Caputh parish,
Perthshire, near the left bank of the Tay, 4^ miles NE of
Mui'thly station, and 74 ESE of Dunkeld. Its owner,
Sir Alex. Muir-Mackenzie, third Bart, since 1805 (b.
1840 ; sue. 1855), holds 4241 acres in the shire, valued
at £6420 per annum.
Demyat. See Dunmyat.
Den, a village in Abdie parish, Fife, near the Lady-
bank and Perth railway, l| mile SE of Newburgh.
Den, a village of recent and rapid growth in Dairy
parish, AjTshire, 2J miles NE of Dairy to^vn. At it is
Kersland Barony Church of Scotland school, which,
with accommodation for 281 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 167, and a grant of £116, 3s.
Denbrae, an estate, with a mansion, in St Andrews
parish, Fife, 2f miles WSW of the town.
Denbum. See Aberdeen.
Den Fenella, a romantic ravine, traversed by a burn,
in Garvock and St Cjtus parishes, Kincardineshire. It
commences about Ih mile E by S of Laurencekirk, and
extends 3^ miles south-eastward to the sea, at a point
1| mile SW of Johnshaven. It took its name from
Fenella or Finvela, daughter of the Earl of Angus, in
the time of Kenneth III. ; and here she is said to have
been slain by her pursuers as she fled from Kincardine
Castle, after the murder of the king at Fettercairn
through her treachery (995). Its beauties of crag and
chasm and wooded bank have often been celebrated
in prose and verse ; near its mouth is a beautiful
■waterfall, 65 feet in leap ; and its stream is spanned
by a handsome bridge and by the viaduct of the Bervie
railway.
Denfind, a steep winding ravine, traversed by Pitairlie
Burn, in Monikie parish, Forfarshire. It bisects a
reach of hill in the central part of the parish ; and, at a
point where its sides are precipitous, is spanned by a
massive one-arched bridge.
Denhead, a village, with a public school, in Cameron
parish, Fife, 3 miles SW of St Andi'cws, under which it
has a post office.
Denhead and Denmill, a conjoint village, with a spin-
ning-mill, in Litf and Benvie parish, Forfarshire, 2
miles W of Lochee.
Denhead of Auchmacoy, a hamlet, vrith a public
school, in Logie- i^>uclian parish, E Aberdeenshire, 2^
miles E by N of Ellon, under which it has a post
office.
Denholm, a village in Cavers parish, Roxburghshire,
on a low plateau above the right bank of the Teviot, 2
miles E of Hassendean station, and 5 NE of Hawick.
With a deep wooded dell to the W, called Denholm-
Dean, it forms a square round a neatlj^-fenced pul)lic
green, and chiefly consists of well-built houses with
gardens attached, having been greatly improved by the
late James Douglas, Esq. of Cavers. Yet, modern as it
looks, the place is old, since we read of its burning by
Hertford in 1545. The low, thatched, wliitewashed
cottage still stands on the N side of the village, in which
was bom the scholar-poet John Leyden (1775-1811), and
in the middle of the village green an obelisk was erected
DENNY
to his memory in 1861. Inhabited mainly by stocking
weavers, quarrymen, and farm labourers, Denholm has
a post office under Hawick, with money order, savings'
bank, insurance, and telegraph departments, 3 inns, a
stone bridge over the Teviot (1864), a Free church (1844 ;
364 sittings), a public school, an excellent sub.scription
library, a horticultural society (1849), and public water-
works, which, formed in 1874 at a cost of more than
£700, draw their supply from a spring nearly 2 miles
distant, and afford 50 gallons per day for each inhabi-
tant. Pop. (1861) 766, (1871) 659, (1881) 645. See
Cavers.
Denino. See Dunino.
Denmill, Forfarshire. See Denhead.
Denmiln Castle. See Abdie.
Dennissness, a headland in Cross and Bumess parish,
Sanday island, Orkney.
Denjiiston. See Glasgow.
Denniston. See Dumbarton.
Denny, a to\vn and a parish of SE Stirlingshire. The
town stands on the right bank of the Carron, opposite
Dunipace, with which it is connected by a bridge ; by
road it is 5^ mUes WNW of Falkirk, 5^ NNE of Cum-
bernauld, and 7i S by E of Stirling, whilst, as terminus
of a branch of the Scottish Central section of the Cale-
donian, opened in 1859, it is 3f miles WNW of Larbert
Junction, 32^ WNWof Edinburgh, and 25^ NE of Glas-
gow. Only a small village down to the close of last cen-
tury, it is almost entirely modern, and has a post office,
v\ith money order, savings' bank, insurance, and tele-
graph departments, branches of the Bank of Scotland
and Clydesdale Bank, 13 insurance agencies, 3 hotels, a
gas company, a people's hall, library, and reading-room,
an Oddfellows' hall, and fairs on the AYednesdays before
12 May and after 11 November. Large public schools
were built in 1875 at a cost of £5000 ; and places of
worship are the parish church (1813 ; 768 sittings) with
a turreted steeple 75 feet high, a Free church (1843),
a U.P. church (1796; reconstructed 1881), and the
Roman Catholic church of St Patrick (1861). In 1876
Denny and Dunipace were formed into a police burgh,
which, governed by 9 commissioners, had a municipal
constituency of 580 in 1882. Pop. of Denny alone (1841)
1881, (1851) 2446, (1861) 2428, (1871) 2433, (1881) 2823;
of police burgh (1876) 3595, (1881) 4081.
Besides part of Bonnybridge, 2| miles to the SSE,
the parish contains also the villages of Denny-Loanhead,
Parkfoot, Longcroft, and Haggs, which extend con-
tinuously along the Glasgow highroad, Denny-Loanhead
being IJ mile S, and Haggs 3| miles SSW, of Denny
town. It is bounded NW by St Ninians, NE and E by
Dunipace, SE by Falkirk, SW by Cumbernauld in Dum-
bartonshire (detached) and Kilsj-th, and W by Kilsyth.
From E to W its utmost length is 5| miles ; its width,
from N to S, varies between 5i furlongs and 3J miles ;
and its area is 8356| acres, of which 48 are water. The
Carron winds 7^ miles east-north-eastward and east-
south-eastward on or close to all the boundary with St
Ninians and Dunipace ; Bonny Burn runs 4f miles east-
south-eastward and east-north-eastward along all the
Dumbartonshire and Falkirk border ; and three others
of the Carron's affluents flow east-north-eastward through
the interior. At the eastern extremity of the parish the
surface declines along the Carron to 100 feet above sea-
level, thence rising westward to 234 feet near Hillend,
400 near Banknoc'k, 696 at conical ilyot Hill, 563 near
Leysbent, 460 at Cowden Hill, 965 at Tardulf Hill, and
1170 at Darrach Hill upon Denny Muir. The rocks are
partly eruptive, partly carboniferous ; and the soil is
loamy along the Bonny and the lower reaches of the
Carron, gravelly throughout the central district, and
marshy or moorish over most of the uplands. Of the
entire area, 5840 acres are in tillage, 789 pasture, 1499
waste, and only 181 under wood. Coal and ironstone
are mined, and employment is further afforded by paper,
chemical, and engine works at Denny town, by Carron-
bank Foundry (1860) and Denny iron-works (1870), by
Bonnybridge Columbian stove works (1860), foundry
(I860), and malleable iron-works (1877), and by Baukier
351
DENNY-LOANHEAD
distillery. Banknock House is the chief mansion ; and
5 proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 20 of between £100 and £500, 37 of from £50
to £100, and 70 of from £20 to £50. In the presbytery
of Stirling and synod of Pertli and Stirling, this parish
was detached from Falkirk in 161S, and is now divided
ecclesiastically among the quoad sacra parishes of Haggs,
Bonnybridge, and Dennv, the two first formed in 1875
and 1878, and the last' a living worth £393. Denny
public and Roman Catholic and Lawhill and Longcroft
public schools, with respective accommodation for 350,
188, 50, and 250 children, had (1880) an average attend-
ance of 278, 115, 16, and 236, and grants of £244,
7s. lOd., £113, lis., £27, 18s., and £2u6, 10s. Valua-
tion (1860) £13,098 ; (1882) £24,820, 4s. 4d., including
£1833 for raUway. Pop. of parish (1801) 2033, (1831)
3843, (1861) 4988, (1871) 4993, (1881) 5728 ; of Denny
registration district (1881) 4228.— Crc^. Sur., sh. 31,
1867.
Denny-Loanhead, a village in Denny parish, Stirling-
shire, \i mile S of Denny town. It has a post office
under Dennj', and a U.P. church, which, succeeding one
of 1735, was built in 1815 at a cost of £1400, and
contains 731 sittings.
Denoon, a glen, traversed by a burn, in Glamis and
Eassie parishes, W Forfarshire. Rising on the north-
eastern slope of Auchterhouse Hill (1399 feet), the burn
^\^nds 6^ miles north-by-westward, till it falls into Dean
"Water, at a point 23 miles WNW of Glamis village.
The Sidlaws at its head and along its course have alti-
tudes of from 1200 to 600 feet above sea-level ; and the
tracts flanking its lower parts subside into the plain of
Strathmore. Vestiges of an ancient fortification, crown-
ing isolated Denoon Law (689 feet) within the glen, 2^
miles SW of Glamis village, comprise foundations of
a circular wall 1020 feet in circumference and faint
traces of interior buildings, and bear the name of
Denoon Castle. The circular wall is believed to have
been 30 feet broad and 27 feet high, and the entire forti-
fication is supposed to have been designed as a place of
retreat in times of danger. — Ord. Sur., shs. 48, 56,
1868-70.
Denovan, a village, a calico-printing establishment, and
an estate in Dunipace parish, Stirlingshire. The village
stands near Carron Water, | mile ENE of Denny, and has
charming environs. The calico-printing establishment
is on the Carron, adjacent to the village ; was com-
menced in the year 1800 ; and employs a large number
of persons, many of whom reside in Denny. The estate
comprises about one-fourth of the parish, and belongs to
Forbes of Callendar.
Denside, a hamlet, with a girls' school, in Tannadico
parish, Forfarshire.
Derclach, a loch in Straiton parish, S Ayrshire.
Lying 870 feet above sea-level, it has an utmost length
and width of 4i and 1 J furlongs, and sends off a rivulet
1 furlong eastward to the head of Loch Finlas. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 8, 1863.
Derculich, an estate, ■with a mansion, in Dull parish,
Perthshire, near the left bank of the Tay, 3^ miles NE
of Aberfeldy. Loch Derculich, 2 miles to the NNW,
falls partly within a detached portion of Logierait parish,
and, lying about 1200 feet above sea-level, has an utmost
length of 4 J furlongs, with a varying width of 1§ and 4
furlongs. It contains some pike anil abundance of fine
trout, which will not, however, always rise to the fly ;
and it sends off Derculich Burn, running 2^ miles
south-south-eastward to the Tay. — Ord. Sur., sh. 55,
1869.
Dergan (Gael, dcarfj-ahhuinn, 'red river'), a rivulet
in Ardchattan parish, Argyll.shire, rising at an altitude
of 1100 feet, and running 4^ miles north-north-westward
along Glen Salloch and tlirough the woods of Bak-
CALUINK, to Loch Creran. — Ord. Sur., sh. 45, 1876.
Demconner, a large village of recent growth in Auchin-
leck paiisii, Ayrshire. At it arc a Church of Scotland
mission station (1874) and a public school. Pop. (1871)
928, (1881) 14.35.
Demock. See Darnock.
352
DESKFORD
Deny or Loch an Dithreibh, a lake in the S of Tongue
parish, Sutherland, 6;^ miles SSW of Tongue church.
Lying 268 feet above sea-level, it is 1^ mile long and 5
furlongs wide, sends ott' the Kinloch to the head of the
Kyle of Tongue, and abounds in yellow trout. — Ord.
Sur., shs. 114, 108, 1880.
Derry, a burn of Crathie and Braemar parish, SW
Aberdeenshire, issuing from Loch Etciiachan (1320
feet), on the NE side of Ben Macdhui, and running 6^
miles east-south-eastward and southward, till it falls into
Lui Water at Derry Lodge (1386 feet), 9 miles WNW of
Castleton. The ordinary ascent of Ben Macdhui is up
Glen Derry, which the Queen in her Journal describes as
' very fine, with the remnants of a splendid forest,
Derry Cairngorm (3788 feet) being to the right, and
Derry Water running below.' — Ord. Siir., shs. 64, 65,
1874-70.
Dervaig, a village, with public and girls' schools, in
Kilniniau parish. Mull island, Argyllshire, at the head
of Loch Cuan, 8f miles WSW of Tobermory.
Derval. See Darvel.
Deskford, a village and a parish in the N of Banff-
shire. The village, Kirktown of Deskford, stands on
the left bank of the Burn of Deskford, 4 miles S of
Cullen, like Mhich it has a post ofiice under Fochabers.
Bounded NE and E by Fordyce, S by Grange, and NW
and N by Rathven, the parish has an utmost length from
NNE to SSW of 4J miles, an utmost breadth of 3
miles, and an area of 8170 acres, of which 15 are water.
Deskford Burn, with a north-north-easterly course
here of 5| miles, divides the parish into two pretty
equal halves ; and the surface, sinking at the northern
extremity to close on 100 feet above sea-level, thence
rises southward to 353 feet at the wooded Gallows
Knowe, 556 at Cotton Hill, 504 at Weston, 845 at the
Hill of Clashmadin, 871 at Black Hill, and 1028 at
Lurg Hill, whose summit, however, falls just within
Grange. Numerous small cascades occur on the Desk-
ford's affluents, one of them, called the Linn, being a series
of leaps with total fall of 30 feet, and with surroundings
of high beauty. The rocks, having undergone great
geognostic disturbance, include almost vertical strata of
mica slate, with fragments of quartz embedded therein,
and a rich bed of fine compact limestone, which has been
largely worked. The soil, in the strath, is chiefly loam
resting on strong deep clay ; but, toward the hills, is
light, black, mossy humus, overlying clay and gravel.
About one-third of the entire area is either regularly or
occasionally in tillage ; some 600 acres are under wood,
either natural or planted ; and the rest is either pasture
or waste. This parish has long been the property of
the Earls of Findlater and Seafield ; and Deskford
Tower, which, standing near the village, was demolished
within this century, was the ancient family seat. Skeith
Castle, once also a striking feature, has left no vestiges ;
and another venerable edifice, probably baronial, but
possibly ecclesiastical, stood in the garden of Inalterie
farmhouse, and is now represented by only a vault.
A curious relic, found about 1816 in a mossy knoll
adjacent to that old vault, con.sisted of brass some-
what in the form and of the size of a swine's head,
with a wooden tongue moved by springs, and with
tolerably e.xact representations of eyes ; it is now in the
museum of the Banft' Scientific Institution. Deskford
is in the presbytery of Fordyce and synod of Aberdeen ;
the living is worth £355. A new parish church. Pointed
Gothic in style, was built in 1872 at a cost of £1000,
and contains 500 sittings. There is also a Free church ;
and a new public school, erected in 1876 at a cost of
£1182, with accommodation for 162 children, had (1880)
an average attendance of 111, and a grant of £97, 8s. 6d.
Valuation (1882) £4441, 8s. Pop. (1801) 610, (1831)
828, (1861) 1031, (1871) 972, (1881) 849.— Ord. Sur.,
sh. 96, 1876.
Deskford or Cullen Bum, a rapid, deep-channelled
stream of Banffshire, rising in the S of Deskfoid parish,
and tiience winding 7^ miles north-eastward-north,
north-westward, and again north-eastward till it falls
into the Moray Firth at Cullen Bay.
DESKRY
DEVON
Deskry, a rivulet of SW Aberdeenshire, rising, at an
altitude of ISOO feet, on the western shoulder of Morven
Hill (2862 feet); close to the meeting-point of Glenniuiek,
Logie-Coldstone, and Strathdon parislies. Thence it
\sinds 10 miles north-north-eastward and west-south-
westward, between Logie-Coldstono and Strathdon par-
ishes, across the Migvie district of Tarland parish, and
between that district and Towie parish, till it falls into
the Don i mile E of Castle-Newe. Its trout are small
but excellent. — Onl. Sur., sh. 75, 1876.
Dess, a station in the NE of Aboyne parish, Aber-
deenshire, on the Deeside railway, 3 miles NE of Aboyne
station.
Deuchar, an estate, with a mansion, in Fearn parisli,
Forfarshire, S miles W by N of Brechin.
Deuchar. See Yarrow.
Deugh, a stream of Carsphairn parish, N Kirkcud-
brightshire, rising on the eastern slope (2000 feet) of
Windy Standard, and thence curving 5 miles westward
along the Ayrshire border, next 15 miles southward,
east-south-eastward, and southward again through the
interior, till, at the SE angle of the parish, and at a
point 7 miles NNW of New Galloway, it falls into the
Ken, after a descent of 1620 feet. — Ord. Sur,, shs. 15,
14, 8, 9, 1863-64.
Devar. See Davaee.
Deveron or Doveran (Gael, da-abhuinn, 'double
river'), a river of Aberdeen and Banft' shires, rising in
two main head-streams — whence the name — among the
mountains of Cabrach, the longer of the two having its
source on the mutual border of Cabrach and Glenbucket
parishes, 3 miles SW of the summit of the Buck of Cab-
rach (2368 feet). Thence it has a total course of 61g miles,
viz., 25^ from its source to the Bridge of Gibston near
Huntly, 24 thence to Eastside Bridge near Turriff, and
12§ thence to its mouth ; and during this course it de-
scends from 1847 feet above sea-level at its source to 414
near Huntly and 114 near Turriff. It partly winds along
in serpentine folds, but, on the whole, goes north-east-
ward to the influx of the Bogie below Huntly, northward
thence to Rothiemay, eastward or east-north-eastward
thence to the vicinity of Turriff, and northward thence
to the Moray Firth. Its connections with respectively
Aberdeenshire and Banffshire are so fitful, leading it
now into the one county, now into the other, now along
the boundary between the two, as to render it more a
pjuzzler than an expounder in political topography ; yet,
in one long sweep, from above Glass church to the
vicinity of Rothiemay church, it runs entirely mthin
Aberdeenshire ; and over another long sweep, from a
point 4 mUes AVSW of Turriff' to its mouth at the Moray
FirtL, it roughly traces the boundary line between the
shires. The parishes immediately watered by it,
whether through their interior or along their confines,
are Cabrach, Glass, Huntly, Cairnie, Fordyce, Rothie-
may, ilarnoch, Inverkeithny, Turriff', Forglen, Alvah,
King-Edward, Banff, and Gamrie. The river, in the
upper part of its course, is a mountain stream, careering
along a series of glens, always rapid, sometimes impetuous,
and occasionally subject to tremendous freshets. All
the bridges on it above Huntly were swept away by the
great flood of Aug. 1829, when at Huntly it rose 22
feet above its ordinary level. But its march, in the
middle and lower parts of its course, is tranquil and
beautiful, through fertile plains, amid brilliant em-
bellishments of wood and mansion, with several stretches
of close scenery as exquisitely fine, in both nature and
art, as almost any in Great Britain. The fertility of
its banks, like that of the banks of the Don, is celebrated
in both proverb and song. Its chief tributary, besides
the Blackwater and Bogie, is the Isla, which joins it a
little above Rothiemay. The Deveron, thence to tlie
sea, is about two-thirds the size of the Don. Well
stocked \vith salmon and trout, it is mostly preserved,
except about Huntly ; and it has bag-net fisheries on
either side of its mouth, extending into the sea. A
shifting bar here varies with gales of wind, and under-
went such change in 1834 as first to close entirely the
former mouth, and next to lay open a new one 600
23
yards further to the E ; hence disputes have arisen
among the cruive owners as to the line of the river's
bed. The salmon fishings up the river belong chiefly to
the Earl of Fife, partly also to Abercromby of Forglen
and Gordon of ]\layen ; those at its mouth belong partly
to the Earl, partly to the town of Banff. — Ord. Sni:,
shs. 75, 85, 86, 96, 1876. See chap. xxi. of Sir Thomas
Dick Lauder's Moray Floods (Elgin, 1830 ; 3d ed. 1873).
Devil's Cauldron, an ancient circular structure in
Kingarth parish. Isle of Bute, a little AV of the head of
Kilchattan Bay, and 7 miles S of Rothesay. It is
situated within a grove, not far from the ruins of St
Blank's Chapel, of which it was an appendage and ^^'ith
wiiich it probably communicated by a subterranean
passage. It consists of a dry-stone wall, 10 feet thick
and 74 feet high, enclosing a space 30 feet in diameter,
with an entrance from the E ; and it is said to have been
used, in pre-Reformation times, as a place of penance.
Devil's Cauldron, a wild and very romantic chasm,
on the mutual boundary of Comrie and ilonzievaird
parishes, Perthshire, 11 mile N of Comrie village. Led-
nock Water traverses it ; and ' the stream, after cutting
its path through a black crag, the sides of which it has
polished to the appearance of ebony, throws itself im-
petuously into a basin, where it hisses, and foams, and
shrieks, and writhes, like a demon newly plunged into
Tartarus. '
Devil's Cowe, a cave in Kincraig Hill, at the south-
western extremity of Kilconquhar parish, Fife.
Devil's Dike. See Deil's Dike.
Devil's Mill, a waterfall on the mutual boundary of
Perthshire and Kinross-shire, on the river Devon, about
350 yards ENE of Ruml:>ling-Bridge, and IJ mile WSW
of Crook of Devon. The river here, after rushing along
a craggy ravine, and passing into a chasm of consider-
able length but scarcely 6 feet in Avidth, falls over a
rock into a deep cavity, where it is tossed round with
such great violence as to beat constantly on the rocky
sides of the chasm, and cause a clacking noise like
that of a mill at work. The waterfall is not seen ; but,
in ordinary states of the river, when neither too low
by draught, nor too high by freshet, the noise is very
distinctly heard. A common reason given by the
country people for the name Devil's Mill is, that the
noise continues on all days alike, paying no regard to
Sunday ; but another reason given is, that the scene and
working of the waterfall are indicative of a grinding to
destruction. A cavern, called the Pigeon's Cave, is near
the waterfall.
Devil's Staircase, an abruptly declivitous byroad on
the N border of Argyllshire, deflecting from the high-
way at the head of Glencoe, 3 miles W of King's House.
It descends northward to the head of Loch Leven, and
communicates there with an old road north-north-
westward to Fort William.
Devol's Glen, a ravine, traversed by a brook, in Green-
ock and Port Glasgow parishes, Renfrewshire. Com-
mencing among hills 794 and 682 feet high, and descend-
ing 2J miles north-eastward to the E end of Port
Glasgow town, it is rocky, wooded, and romantic. It
is flanked, near the head, by a precipice, called Wallace's
Leap, over which Sir William Wallace is fabled to have
leaped on horseback; and it contains two beautiful
though tiny waterfalls, respectively about 20 feet and
about 100 feet in leap.
Devon, a river of Perth, Kinross, Clackmannan, and
Stirling shires, rising among the Ochils in the N of
Alva parisli, at an altitude of ISOO feet, and 9 furlongs
WNW of tlie summit of Bencleuch. Thence it winds 14
miles north-eastward, eastward, and south-eastward to
the Crook of Devox, and thence again 191 west-south-
westward, till, after a total course of 33f miles, it falls
into the Forth at Cambus, 2| miles W by N of Alloa,
and only 5:^ miles in a straight line SSW of its source.
During this course it traverses or bounds the parishes of
Alva, Blackford, Tillicoultry, Glendevon, Fossoway,
Muckhart, Dollar, Tillicoultry, Alva, Logic, and Alloa.
The last song written liy Burns, written as he lay dying
at Brow (12 Jidy 1796), was, 'Fairest maid on Devon
DEVON. BLACK
banks, Crystal Devon, -windinf; Devon ' — the maid, that
Charlotte "Hamilton of Mauchline, whom he had seen at
Harviestoun nine years before, and then had celebrated
in another most exquisite lyric —
' How pleasant the banks of the clear winding Devon,
With green spreading bushes, and flowers bloominj fair !
But the bonniest flower on the banks of the Devon
Was once a s\veet bud from the banks of the Ayr.'
Others than Bums have sung of the beauties of the
Devon and its valley, shown at their best in a long
reach below the Crook of Devon, where the stream
traverses a series of ravines and chasms, and makes
the famous falls described in our articles Devil's Mill,
Rumbling-Bridge, and Caldron Linn. The cliffs that
riank its chasms and ravines are of no great height,
nowhere exceeding much 100 feet ; but they acquire
aspects of sublimity and savageness from the narrow-
ness and gloom of the spaces which they enclose, and
aspects of picturesqueness and witchery from copsewood,
herbage, and overshado\ving woods. The river's aggre-
gate descent, from source to mouth., is close upon ISOO
feet, and its basin is so ramified among nearly all the
southern and south-western Ochils as sometimes to send
down freshets to the plains, with the suddenness and
volume of a waterspout. The river is not navigable,
yet, according to a survey made by James Watt in 1760,
it could be rendered navigable for several miles at a cost
of about £2000. It is a capital trouting stream, every-
where open to the public ; its trout average rather less
than 4 lb. each. The Stirling and Dunfermline rail-
way crosses it, near the mouth, on a viaduct partly sup-
ported by piers, partly suspended on strong timber
beams ; and the Devon Valley railway follows it from
its lower waters upward to Crook of Devon. — Ord. Sur.,
shs. 39, 40, 1869-67.
Devon, Black or South, a small river of Fife and
Clackmannanshu-e, rising on Outh Muir (900 feet)
in the N of Dunfermline parish, 7 furlongs WSW of
Duraglow, the highest of the Cleish HUls, and thence
running 15^ miles westward and south-westward through
and along the borders of Saline and Clackmannan
parishes, till it falls into the Forth, IJ mile SE of
Alloa. It has very small volume in droughty seasons,
most of its waters being then collected in dams or
reservoirs for driving mills ; it takes the name of
Black Devon from the gloomy appearance of its waters ;
and it contains some pike and little trout. — Ord. Sur.,
shs. 40, 39, 1867-69.
Devon, Crook of. See Crook of Devon.
Devon Iron-works, an extensive establishment in the
Sauchie section of Clackmannan parish, Clackmannan-
shire, near the left bank of the Devon, 2^ miles NNE
of Alloa. Including three furnaces and a large foundry,
it turns out 6000 tons of pig-iron in the year, and con-
verts a considerable portion thereof into cast-iron goods ;
and it communicates, by one railway with Alloa Har-
bour, by another with Clackmannan Pow at the mouth
of the Black Devon.
Devonshaw, a hill (1275 feet) in Lamington and
"Wandel parish, Lanarkshire, on the right bank of the
Clyde, opposite Roberton village. Its SW shoulder is
crowned with an ancient circular camp.
Devonside, a village in Tillicoultry parish, Clackman-
nanshire, -J mile SSE of Tillicoultry town. It adjoins
a brick and tile work, and is near a coal mine. Fop.,
with Langan. (1881) 555.
Devon Valley Railway, a railway in Clackmannan,
Perth, and Kinross shires, partly along the middle
reaches of the river Devon, and thence deriving its
distinctive name. A reach of 3^ miles north-east-
ward, from a junction with tlie Stirling and Dunfermline
railway at Alloa to Tillicoultry, is practically a portion
of the line, but was opened in 1851, prior to any part
of the line proper, as a branch of the Stirling and Dun-
fermline railway. The Devon Valley line proper, extend-
ing from a junction with that branch at Tillicoultry
east-north-eastward to a junction with the Fife and Kin-
ross railway, in the vicinity of Kinross, was originally
projected in 1857, and authorised in 1858, on a capital of
854
DHUHEABTACH
£90,000 in shares and £30,000 in loans. It was formed,
under the original authority, only from Rumbling-
Bridge to Kinross Junction ; the rest being formed, in
two successive reaches, under connection from 1866 with
the North British system. The reach from Rumbling-
Bridge to Kinross is 6i miles long, was opened on 1 May
1863, traverses a level district, and has no works of
more than ordinary consequence except a rock cutting
at Rumbling-Bridge. The reach from Tillicoultry to
Dollar is 2^- miles long ; was begun to be formed in
1867, and completed in May 1869 ; and also has no
works of more than ordinary consequence. The reach
from Dollar to Rumbling-Bridge is 4^ miles long ; was
begun to be formed in 1869, and opened on 1 May
1871 ; has several works of very heavy character ; and
rises to a summit-level of 320 feet above the elevation
of its starting-point at Dollar. An embankment on
it contiguous to Dollar is 40 feet high and more than
900 yards long. A viaduct over the Devon is 52 feet
high and 390 "feet long; has six arches, each of from
49 to 55 feet in span ; and curves on a radius of 30
chains. A cutting at Arndean is 80 feet deep at the
deepest part, and involved the removal of about 180,000
cubic yards of sand. A viaduct in Gairnej^ Glen is 110
feet high and 360 feet long ; has six arches each 45 feet
in span ; and occupies a most picturesque position. Ten
other small viaducts and seven overarching bridges
occur between Dollar and Rumbling-Bridge. Since 1
Jan. 1875 the Devon Valley has been amalgamated ^vith
the North British.
Dewar, a hamlet in Heriot parish, Edinburghshire, 6J
miles S of Middleton. Dewar farm, adjacent to the
hamlet, contains a spot called the Piper's Grave, tradi-
tionally associated with a foolish and fatal exploit of a
Peebles piper ; and Dewar Hill, not far therefrom, is
crowned with a remarkable large stone, called Lot's Wife.
Dewarton, a village on Vogrie estate, in Borthwick
parish, Edinburghshire, li mile W of Ford.
Dews, a small marsh}' lake in Fetteresso parish, Kin-
cardineshire. It once was of considerable extent, but
has become exceedingly reduced, and it is so occupied
with aquatic plants as to be sometimes called Lily Loch.
Dheirrig or Eilean Dearg (Gael. ' red island '), an
islet of Inverchaolain parish, Argyllshire, the furthest
of a small group in the mouth of Loch Riddon, at the
elbow of the Kyles of Bute, 2\ miles NW of Coliutraive.
It is crowned by ruins of a fort, erected by Archibald,
ninth Earl of Argyll, in 1685, during his disastrous
expedition from the Netherlands.
DMvach. See Divach.
Dhruim, a river-gorge in Kilmorack parish, Inverness-
shire, extending about 2 or 3 miles south-westward from
Kilmorack church, and traversed by the river Beauly.
It is flanked by steep mountain acclivities, clothed with
birch and pine ; is fringed, along the river's brinks, by
rows of oaks, alders, and weeping birches ; is swept,
along the bottom, by a series of cascades over shelving
masses of red sandstone ; and has, altogether, a roman-
tically picturesque character.
Dhu. See Bexdhu.
Dhu or Dubh Loch (Gael. ' black lake '), a wild moun-
tain lake in the SW of Glenmuick parish, Aberdeenshire,
If mile AV of the head of Loch Muick, to which it sends
otf the Allt an Dubh-loch. Lpng 2091 feet above sea-
level, it has an utmost length and breadth of 5J and 1 J
furlongs, and is overhung to the S by Cairn Bannoch
(3314 feet) and Broad Cairn (3268), which culminate
just on the Forfarshire border. Here, on 16 Sept. 1852,
the Queen received confirmation of the death of the
Duke of Wellington.— Orrf. Sur., sh. 65, 1870.
Dhuheartach, a rocky basaltic islet of Argyllshire,
15i miles SW of lona. Lying fully exposed to the
Atlantic, it is 240 feet long, 130 broad, and 35 high,
and was surmounted in 1867-72 by a lighthouse rising
143 feet above high-water level. The lighthouse is a
parabolic frustum, and was built of granite (quarried and
dressed at Carraid, on the shore of the Sound of lona, and
landed with great difficulty on the rock. Only 27 days
in 1867, 38 days in 1868, 59 days in 1869, and 62 days
DHUISK
in 1870 were sufficiently calm to permit the landing of
the materials. The light, which is visible for ISi
nautical miles, is fixed white, except between S by W
i W, and ^Y ^ N, where it is fixed red. See the Builder
for Feb. 2, 1S72, and May 6, 1876.
Dhuisk or Dusk, a rivulet of Colmonell parish, in the
S of Carrick, Ayrshire. Formed by the Feoch and
Pollgowau Burns, at a point 1 J mile ESE of Barrhill
village, it thence runs 6 miles north-westward, closely
followed by the Girvan and Portpatrick railway, till
near Pin wherry station it falls into the Stinchar. —
Ord. Sur., shs. 8, 7, 1863.
Dibaig, a hamlet, with a public school, near the
mutual boundary of Applecross and Gairloch parishes,
Ross-shire.
Dichmont, a hill-summit in St Vigeans parish, Forfar-
shire, 1 mile NE of St Vigeans village. It rises to an
altitude of 323 feet above sea-level, and is cro\\nied with
a large hollow cairn or mound, anciently used as a seat
of justice, and now clothed with greensward.
Dichty or Dighty Water, a stream of S Forfarshire.
Rising in four head-streams, among the Sidlaw Hills, in
the W of Lundie parish, it runs 15 miles east-south-
eastward through Auchterhouse, Mains and Strathmar-
tine, Dundee, and Monifieth parishes ; receives, within
Dundee parish, the tribute of Fithie ^Yater ; and falls
into the Firth of Tay 1| mile ENE of Brouglity Ferry.
It drives several mills in the middle and lower parts of
its course, and is well stocked with trout. — Orel. Sur. ,
shs. 48, 49, 1868-65.
Digmore, a small harbour in Xorth Uist island. Outer
Hebrides, Inverness-shire, on Balranald farm, towards
the middle of the island.
Dildawn. See Daldawx.
Dillarbum, a village in Lesmahagow parish, Lanark-
shire, 1^ mile NXE of Abbeygi-een.
Dilty, a morass in Carmylie and Guthrie parishes,
Forfarshire, 1^ mile ESE of Kirkbuddo station. Measur-
ing about \ mile either way, it sends off two streamlets
in opposite directions — the head-stream of the Elliot
running eastward directly to the sea, and a tributary
streamlet running westward to the river Dean.
Dinart. See Durxess.
Dingwall (Scand. 'hill of justice'), a town and a
parish of SE Ross-shire. A royal and parliamentary
burgh, the town stands on the north-western shore, and
a little below the head, of Cromarty Firth, which here
is joined by the PefFer ; by road it is 13J miles NW of
Inverness via Kessoek Ferry, and by rail, as junction of
the Dingwall and Skye railway (1870) with the main
Highland line (1862), 53 EXE of Strome Ferry, 82|
SW V.y S of Helmsdale, 18^ NW of Inverness, 210^
NNW of Edinburgh, and 226J N by W of Glasgow.
The beautifully-wooded plain on which it stands was
once a swampy marsh, but since 1817 thorough drainage
and spirited agriculture have made it one of the loveliest
valleys in the N of Scotland. The burgh, lying snugly
among rich clumps of trees, at the entrance of Strath
PefFer, chiefly consists of one main street, a mile in
length ; and, while the majority of its houses are irre-
gularly disposed and unpretentious architecturally, still
there are several very handsome residences, most of
which have sprung up within the past thirty years.
Yet Dingwall is a place of hoar antiquity, the county
town, having arisen under the shelter of the neighbour-
ing castle of the Earls of Ross, which, built close beside
the Firth, was almost surrounded by water, but now has
left hardly a vestige, its site being partly occupied by a
modern mansion. The To\\'n -house is a curious old-
fashioned edifice, with a spire ; the County Buildings, a
handsome castellated pile a little way E of the town,
were erected in 1845 at a cost of £5000, and contain a
court-house, county rooms, and a prison with eighteen
cells. A public hall was built in 1871 ; and a cottage
hospital, H-shaped in plan, in 1872-73, as a memorial
to the late Dr "William Ross. Near the church is a
plain and simple obelisk, 6 feet S(j[uare at the base, and
57 feet high, but thrown slightly oft' the perpendicular
by an earthq^uake of 1816 j in 1875 it ijroved upon
DINGWALL
exploration to mark the resting-place of its founder,
George Mackenzie, the celebrated first Earl of Cromartie
(1630-1714). The parish church itself, with a steeple
and 800 sittings, was built in 1801 ; the present hand-
some Free church in 1869 ; and the Episcopal church of
St James, an Early Decorated structure with 120 sittings,
in 1872, its predecessor having been destroyed by fire
the year before. In 1874 a public park, adjoining the
Beauly road, was gifted to the burgh by the late Sir
James Matheson, Bart, of the Lews, who had at one
time been provost ; and Dingwall besides has a post
office, with money order, savings' bank, insurance, and
railway telegraph departments, branches of the Bank of
Scotland and the Caledonian and National banks, 21
insurance agencies, 3 hotels, gas-works, a masonic lodge,
a literary association, militia barracks, a poorhouse, and
a Friday paper, the Ross-shire Journal (1875). A corn
market is held on every Wednesday from 26 September
to 30 Jilay, and the following are the fairs throughout
the year : — New Year Market, third Wednesday of
January ; Candlemas (cattle and produce), do. of Febru-
ary ; Janet's, first Wednesday of June ; Colin's (cattle,
etc. ), first Tuesday of July ; Fell Maree, first Wednesday
of September ; Martha's, do. of November ; and Peffer,
Tuesday before Christmas. After the forfeiture of the
Earls of Ross in 1476 Dingwall seems to have gone down
in the world ; and its petition of 1724 to the Convention
of Burghs sets forth that ' the town is almost turned
desolate, as is weel known to all our neighbours, and
there is hardly anything to be seen but the ruins of old
houses, and the few inhabitants that are left, having now
no manner of trade, live only by labouring the neigh-
bouring lands, and our inhabitants are still daily de-
serting us.' Accordingly, in 1733, Inverness sent a
deputation, which brought back word that Dingwall
had no trade, though one or two were inclined to carry
on trade if they had a harbour, also that it had no
prison, and that for want of a bridge across an adjacent
lake the people were kept from both kirk and market.
Now, though its trade is still not very great, and
though manufactures are conspicuous by their absence,
Dingwall at least has a harbour. A mile below the
bridge coasters had once to load and unload on the mud
at low-water, their cargoes being carried along a bad road
to and from the E end of the town. This inconvenience
was remedied by shaping the lower reach of the Pefi^er into
a regular canal, 2000 yards long, with two wharfs at
which vessels of 9 feet draught can lie — such improve-
ments being carried out in 1815-17 at a cost of £4365, of
which £1786 was furnished by the Highland road commis-
sioners and £600 by the Convention of Burghs. Erected
Seal of Dingwall.
into a royal burgh by Alexander II. in 1226, and having
adopted the General Police and Improvement Act of
1862, Dingwall is governed by a provost, a senior and a
junior bailie, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and 10 coun-
cillors, who also act as police commissioners. With
Wick and four other burghs, it returns a member to
355
DINGWALL AND SKYE RAILWAY
parliament, its municipal and parliamentary con^9ti-
tuency numbering 229 in 1882, when the annual value
of real property, exclusive of railway, was £7533, whilst
the cori)oratiou revenue for ISSl was £152, and the har-
bour revenue £210. Pop. (1841) 1739, (1S51) 1966,
(1861) 2099, (1871) 2125, (1S81) 1918. Inhabited houses
(ISSl) 351.
The parish is bounded N and NE by Kiltearn, SE by
the head of Cromarty Firth and by the river Conan,
separating it from the Nairnshire district of Ferintosh,
S by the Tollie section of Fodderty and by Urray, and
SW by the main body of Fodderty. It has an utmost
length of 61 miles from NNW to SSE, and its width
varies between 9 J furlongs and 4| mUes, whilst tapering
north-westward to a point. The Peffer winds 2J miles
east-south-eastward along the Fodderty border and
through the interior to the Firth ; the Skiach runs 1|
mile north-eastward across the northern interior ; and
Loch Ussie (6i x 43 furl.) lies at an altitude of 419 feet,
partly within a western projecting wing. Except for
the low level stiip, 3 furlongs wide, between the Firth
and the Inverness highroad, and for a portion of Strath
Peffer, the surface is everywhere hilly, even mountainous,
from S to N attaining 259 feet near Blackwells, * 628
near Croftandrum, *SS2at Cnoc Mor, *450 at Knock-
bain, 1109 at Cnoc a' Bhreac, and * 2000 at Meall na
Speireig, those heights that culminate on the parish's
borders being marked with asterisks, and one and all
being dominated by Ben Wytis (3429 feet). The rocks
are gneiss and mica slate in the northern uplands, and
in the S conglomerate and Old Ked sandstone. Around
the town there is a deep deposit of loam with a large
admixture of clay, very suitable for the growth of wheat,
but demanding great care in the cultivation ; the soil
on the lower slopes of the rising-grounds is also clayey ;
and the higher cultivated laud is mountain clay or
moorish soil, the former becoming very fertile Avith long-
continued good treatment, the latter very difficult to
improve (Mr James Macdonald in Trans. Higlil. and Ag.
Soc, 1877). In the N are remains of an ancient Cale-
donian stone circle. Tulloch Castle is the chief man-
sion ; and 2 proprietors hold each an annual value of
£500 and upwards, 12 of between £100 and £500, 21 of
from £50 to £100, and 26 of from £20 to £50. Ding-
wall is the seat of a presbytery in the synod of Ross ;
the living is worth £436. A public school, with accom-
modation for 360 children, had (1880) an average attend-
ance of 222, and a gi-ant of £177, 3s. Valuation (1881)
£4992, 18s. 2d., of which £2654 was held by Duncan
Davidson, Esq. of Tulloch. Pop. (1801) 1418, (1831)
2124, (1861) 2412, (1871) 2443, (1881) 2211.— Ord. Sur.,
shs. 83, 93, 1881.
The presbyterj- of Ding^\-all comprises the old parishes
of Alness, Contin, Dingwall, Fodderty, Kilmorack, Kil-
tearn, Urquhart, and Urray and Kilchrist, and the quoad
sacra parishes of Carnoch and Kinlochluichart. Pop.
(1871) 16,562, (1881) 15,517, of whom 330 were com-
municants of the Church of Scotland in 1S78. — The Free
Church also has a presbj-tery of Dingwall, with churches
at Alness, Dingwall, Fodderty, Garve, Kilmorack,
Kiltearn, Maryburgh, Stiathconon, Unjuhart, and Urray,
which together had 4351 members and adherents in
1881.
Dingwall and Skye Railway, The, designed to open
up to railway facilities the western coasts of Eoss and
Inverness, and by means of steamers to afford access to
the principal islands of the Outer and Inner Hebrides,
was originally projected to reach Kyle Akin (the Strait
of Haco), where the island of Skye is separated from the
mainland by a narrow channel. A bill for a line to this
point was obtained in 1864, but the difficulty of raising
the capital caused the adoption of a modified schema,
carrj-ing the line to its present western terminus on Loch
Carron. The railway, branching from the Highland line
at Dingwall, rises a short distance therefrom upon a steep
incline, on which is situated the first station, Strathpefl'er
(4^ miles). This station occupies a remarkably elevated
position, the famous spa that gives it name beiiK; situated
IJ mile away iu the deep valley below. The view from
356
DIPPIN
this portion of the line is magnificent ; prominent amongst
the objects of interest being Castle-Leod, belonging to
the Duchess of Sutherland (Countess of Cromartie in her
own right), which is seen in the midst of fine trees.
After leaving Strathpeffer, the line passes through a
cutting close vmder Craig -an- fhitaich, the ' Raven's
Rock,' whose precipitous face, 250 feet high, beetles
ominously over the railway. Half-a-mile further the line
enters Ross-shire, and passes Loch Garve, the first of a
series of fine lochs wliich skirt the route. The shores
are nicely wooded. The station of Garve (II5 mUes)
forms the starting-point for Lochbroom and Ullapool
by a wild coach road over the Biridh More. The line
afterwards passes Loch Luichart, where there is a station
(17 miles), and the Grudie, Loch C'uUiu, and Strathbran
aflbrd varying aspects of Highland scenerj'. Achanault
station (21;| miles) is a favourite starting-point for the
ascent of a number of the giant mountains of Ross-shire.
Auchnasheen station (27$ miles) is the starting-point
for the coach to Gairloch, the road passing along the
whole length of Loch Maree, and forming one of the
finest drives in Scotland. Beyond Auchnasheen the
line, after crossing the Bran on a fine lattice bridge,
reaches its summit-level, and immediately begins to
descend to the western coast. There is here some re-
markably Mild and bleak scenery ; and at Auchnashel-
lach, the shooting-lodge of Lord Wimbome, suiTOunded
by fine grounds, appears like an oasis iu the desert.
The line then skirts Loch Dougall, 4 miles in length,
with vast precipitous hills rising from it. Strathcarron
station (45| miles) at the head of Loch Carron is next
reached, forming the station for Janetown on the op-
posite side of the loch, and for the wild region of Loch
Torridon. From Attadale, the line skirts the upper
waters of Loch Carron, and reaches its terminus at Strome
Ferry (53 miles). The line was cheaply constructed,
the principal works being the cutting above Strathpefl'er
and a few large bridges. The total capital expenditure
amounted to £330,000. In 1881 the line was amalga-
mated with the Highland railwaj-. In the winter of
the same year high tides damaged tlie line, which sub-
sequently was blocked by a heavy fall of rock, these inter-
ruptions occurring between Attadale and Strome Ferry ;
and the traffic was on both occasions interrupted for a
number of daj-s.
Dingy's How, an ancient tumulus 36 feet high on the
isthmus at the southern extremity of St Andrews pai-ish,
Ovknej.
Dinlabyre, an ancient chapelry in Castleton parish,
Roxburghshire, on the left bank of Liddel Water, 1 mile
SSE of Steele Road station. An old-fashioned mansion,
now a farm-house, occupies the site of its chapel.
Diimiurchie. See Bakr.
Dinnet, a station, a burn, and a moor of S Aberdeen-
shire. The station is on the Deeside section of the
Great North of Scotland railway, 4^ miles W of AbojTie.
The burn, issuing from Loch Daven, and receiving also
the effluence of Loch Kinord, runs 2^ miles south-east-
ward along the boundary between Aboyne and Glen-
muick parishes, falls into the Dee in the vicinity of
the station, and may be regarded as the line of demar-
cation between the Lowlands and Highlands of Dee-
side. The moor flanks the W bank of the burn, is a
bleak dismal tract, and contains several cairns and
several vestiges of ancient warfare. Near the station is
a Gothic church, built in 1875 at a cost of £700 as
a chapel of ease to Aboyne, and raised to quoad sacra
status in 1881.
Dinwoodie, a station in Applegarth parish, Annan-
dale, Dumfriesshire, on the Caledonian railway, 6 miles
NNW of Lockerbie. Dinwoodie Hill (871 feet), IJ
mile to the ENE, is crowned with two hill-forts ; and
on its SE slope is the graveyard of a chapel, said to have
belonged to the Knights Templars.
Dionard. See Durxess.
Dippen, an estate, with a mansion, in SaddtU parish,
E Kintyre, Argyllshire, close to Carradale village.
Dippin, a grandly mural headland on the SE coast of
Arran island, Buteshire, 1^ mile NE of Kildonan Castlo,
DIPPLE
DIVIE
and 4 miles S by "W of tlie southern entrance of Lamlasli
Bay. A range of precipice 300 feet high, it rises
sheer from the water's edge ; is leapt by a brook, in a
curve of spray, to the sea ; and forms a very conspicuous
landmark to mariners.
Dipple, an ancient parish of NE Elginshire, on the
left bank of the river Spey, opposite Fochabers. It was
united with Essil in 1731 to form Speyraouth ' parish.
Its church was dedicated to the Holy Ghost ; and at its
lychgate stood a small building known as ' The House
of the Holy Ghost.' Around this building funeral
parties would always bear the corpse, following the course
of the sun ; nor could they be driven from that practice
till the house was demolished.
Dippool Water, a rivulet of Carnwath parish, E
Lanarkshire, rising near the Edinburghshire border at
an altitude of 1050 feet above sea-level, and running 7^
miles south-south-westward, till it falls into Mouse
"Water, 2 miles NNW of Carstairs Junction. Its waters
contain good store of line large trout. — Ord. Sur., sh.
23, 1S65.
Dirie or Dirrie More, a desolate mountain pass in
Lochbroom parish, central Koss-shire, on the road from
Dingwall to Ullapool. On the watershed between the
Atlantic and German Oceans, it attains its maximum
altitude (909 feet) near the head of Loch Droma, 161
miles NW of Garve station, and 3J miles SSE of the
summit of Ben Dearg (3547 feet). — Ord. Sur., sh. 92,
1S81.
Dirleton, a village and a coast parish of N Hadding-
tonshire. The village stands, towards the middle of the
parish, 2| miles WSW of North Berwick, and 1^ mile
NW of Dirleton station, this being 2| miles NNE of
Drem, imder which Diideton has a post office. One of the
prettiest villages in Scotland, it chiefly consists of neat
modern cottages, each with its plot of flowers and shrubs,
arranged along two sides of a large triangular green, on
whose third or south-eastern side the ivy-clad ruins of
Dirleton Castle stand amidst gardens of singular beauty,
their bowling-green adorned with grand old evergi-een
oaks. This seems to be the identical stronghold that in
1298 offered a stubborn though fruitless resistance to
Anthony Beck, the fighting Bishop of Durham ; its
ruinous state is due in great measure to the ordnance of
Monk and Lambert, who, in 1650, captured it from a
garrison of mosstroopers, hanging their captain and
two of his followers. The parish church, at the N end
of the village, bears date 1661, and, altered and enlarged
in 1825, contains 600 sittings. There are also a Free
church, an inn, a librarv, and a public school. Pop.
(1861) 354, (1871) 323, (1881) 403.
The parish, containing also the villages of Gullane,
Kingston, and Fenton, is bounded NW and N by the
Firth of Forth (here 8J miles broad at the narrowest), E
by North Berwick, and S by Athelstaneford and Aber-
lady. Its length, from E to W, varies between 2| and 5^
rniles ; its utmost breadth, from N to S, is 3§ miles ; and
its area is 10,798| acres, of which 1620| are foreshore
and 2 water. The coast-line, 9 miles long, rises almost
boldly to 100 feet above sea-level at Eklbottle Wood,
but elsewhere is mostly fringed by the flat sandy East,
West, and GuUane Links ; to the W it is indented by
Gullane and Aberlady Bays ; and off it to the N lie the
three islets, composed of greenstone rock, of Eyebroughy,
Fidra, and Lamb. The sluggish Peffer Burn, tracing
the southern boundary, is the only noteworthy rivulet ;
and inland the surface is very slightly undulated, its
highest point (118 feet) occurring on the road to Drem,
5 mile SS W of the village. The rocks are partly eruptive,
partly carboniferous, and including dark-red jasper veins,
excellent building sandstone, some coal, and considerable
quantities of ironstone. The soil is extremely various —
in one part a deep, stiff, alluvial clay, and near the
coast stretches of the lightest sand, burrowed by hun-
dreds of rabbits ; whilst there is also much deepj free
loam, the product of which in summer and autumn
presents an appearance of almost unrivalled luxuriance.
Fenton Barns, If mile N by E of Drem, is famous in
agricultural annals as the home, till 1873, of George
Hope, Esq. (1811-76), an interesting Life of whom, by
his daughter, was published in 1881. Sir John Haly-
burton, slain at the battle of Nisbet in 1355, had wedded
the daughter and co-heiress of William De Vaux, lord of
Dirleton, and got with her that estate : his grandson,
Sir Walter, Lord Treasurer of Scotland, founded a col-
legiate church at Dirleton in 1446, and six years earlier
was created Lord Halyburton of Dirleton — a title for-
feited in 1600 by John, third Earl of Gowrie and .sixth
Lord Ruthven and Dirleton, who won over Logan of
Restalrig to his plot by the proffered bribe of the lands
and castle of Dirleton. ' I care not,' wrote Logan, ' for
all else I have in this kingdom, in case I get grip of
Dirleton, for I esteem it the pleasantest dwelling in Scot-
land.' (See Perth and Fast Castle. ) To-day the Earl
of Mar and Kellie bears the title of Baron Dirleton and
Viscount Fentoun, conferred in 1603 and 1606 on Sir
Thomas Erskine, afterward Earl of Kellie, who with his
own hand had slain the Earl of Gowrie ; that of Earl of
Dirleton was held, from 1646 till his death before 1653,
by Sir James Maxwell, who seems, in 1631, to have
bought the estate. In 1663 it was once more sold to
Sir John Nisbet, who as Lord Advocate bore the title
Lord Dirleton, and whose descendant, Lady ilary Nisbet-
Hamilton, of Aecherfield and Biel, owns two-thirds
of the parish. Five other proprietors hold each an
annual value of £500 and upwards, 4 of between £100
and £500, 4 of from £50 to £100, and 11 of from £20 to
£50. Dirleton is in the presbytery of Haddington and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; the living is worth
£509. Three public schools — Dirleton, Gullane, and
Kingston — with respective accommodation for 145, 81,
and 123 children, had (1880) an average attendance of
100, 34, and 56, and grants of £74, £16, 14s., and
£32, 3s. Valuation (1882) £16,499, 8s. Pop. (1801)
1115, (1831) 1384, (1861) 1540, (1871) 1419, (1881) 1506.
—Ord. Sur., shs. 33, 41, 1863-57. See vol. ii. of
Billings' Baronial and Ecclesiastical Antiquities (1852).
Dirlot Castle, an ancient fortalice in Halkirk parish,
Caithness, on a rugged crag above the river Thurso, 15
miles S of Thurso town. It is said to have been the
stronghold of a daring freebooter, a kinsman of the
Dunrobin Sutherlands, and to have been accessible only
by a drawbridge, but is now represented by slight
remains.
Dirrie. See Dieie.
Dirrington, Great and Little, two of the Lammermuir
Hills in Longformacus parish, Berwickshire. Great
Dirrington culminates 1^ mile SSE of Longformacus
hamlet, and has an altitude of 1309 feet above sea-level ;
and Little Dirrington culminates nearly \\ mile further
SSW on the boundary with Greenlaw parish, and has
an altitude of 1191 feet.
Dim, Loch. See Deerie.
Disblair, an estate, with a mansion, in Fintray parish
Aberdeenshire, 2J miles WSW of New Machar station.
Distinkhorn, a hill in Galston parish, Ayrshire, 5
furlongs from the Lanarkshire border, and of miles ESE
of Galston village. It has an altitude of 1259 feet
above sea-level, and commands a magnificent view.
Ditch Hall, an ancient structure of earth and turf on
Inverchadain farm, in Fortingal parish, Perthshire. It
is described by Blind Harry ; is said to have been Sir
William Wallace's resting-])lace for a few days, and the
place where he was joined by the men of Kanuoch, on
the eve of his march against the English at Dunkeld
and Perth ; and is still represented by some remains.
Divach, a shooting-lodge in Urquhart and Glen-
moriston parish, Inverness-shire, 2J miles SW of Drum-
nadrochit hotel. Romantically situated between the
Coiltie and its affluent, the Allt Coire na Ruighe, Mith
the lofty Divach Falls, it was a favourite residence of
John Phillip, R.A. (1817-67), and figures in Shirley
Brooks' Sooner or Later.
Divie, a rivulet of Cromdale and Edinkillie parishes,
Elginshire, rising, at an altitude of 1400 feet, on the E
slope of Carn Bad na Caoracli (1557 feet), 3 miles SE
of Dava station, and thence running V2\ miles north-
north-westward, till, after receiving Dorbock Burn, it
367
DOBSON'S WELL
falls, near Relugas, into the river Fintlhorn. A capital
trout stream, strictly preserved, it almost vies with the
Fiudhorn in the wild and varied beauty of its scenery,
and is subject to terrific freshets, that of Aug. 1829
doing damage at Dunphail to the extent of £5000.
Near Edinkillie church the Divie is spanned by a viaduct
of the Highland railway, which, measuring 500 feet in
length of masonry, and comprising 315 feet of arching,
rises to a maximum height of 170 feet above the ordi-
nary level of the stream. Four battlemented towers
command the approaches, which are gained by embank-
ments containing 190,000 cubic yards of material. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 84, 1S76. See chaps, v.-vii. of Sir
Thomas Dick Lauder's Moray Floods (Elgin, 1830 ;
3d ed. 1873).
Dobson's Well, a weak chalybeate spring in Hadding-
ton parish, i mile W of Haddington town.
Dochaxt, a loch, a river, and a glen in Killin parish,
Perthshire. Lying at the head of the glen, 1 mile E of
Crianlarich station, and 512 feet above sea-level, the
loch measures 6 by 1^ furlongs, is overhung to the SE
by conical Benmore (3843 feet), and contains a small
•wooded islet, on which stand the ruins of a castle of the
Campbells of Lochawe. At its head it receives the
FlLL.\N, and from its foot sends off the river Dochart,
which flows 13:J miles east-north-eastward to the head
of Loch Tay (290 feet), in the first | mile of its course
expanding into Loch Tubhair (IJ mile x 2^ furl. ; 512
feet), and ^ mile from its mouth being joined by the
Lochy. Just above Killin, it ' takes up a roaring
voice, and beats its way over a rocky descent among
large black stones ; islands in the middle turning the
stream this way and that ; the whole course of the river
verv wide.' Stream and lochs contain salmon and
trout, also — unluckily — pike. Glen Dochart, at a point
2i miles SW of Killin, is joined at right angles from
the S by Glen Ogle, and takes up thence, past Loch
Dochart, the Callander and Oban railway ; along it
from W to E are Lochdochart Lodge, Luic station
and hotel, Auchlyne House, and Ardchyle hamlet.
For an exquisite picture of loch and river and glen
we must recur to Dorothy Wordsworth, who, with
her brother, drove from King's House to Luib on Sun-
day, 4 Sept. 1803: — 'We had about eleven miles to
travel before we came to our lodging, and had gone
five or six, almost always descending, and still in the
same vale (Strath Fillan), when we saw a small lake
before us, after the vale had made a bending to the left.
It was about sunset when we came up to the lake ; the
afternoon breezes had died away, and the water was in
perfect stillness. One grove-like island, with a ruin
that stood upon it overshadowed by the trees, was
reflected on the water. This building, which, on that
beautiful evening, seemed to be wra])ped up in religious
quiet, we were informed had been raised for defence by
some Highland chieftain. All traces of strength, or
war, or danger are passed away, and in the mootl in
which we were we could only look upon it as a place of
retirement and peace. The lake is called Loch Dochart.
We passed by two others of inferior beauty, and con-
tinued to travel along the side of the same river, the
Dochart, through an irregular, undetermined vale —
poor soil and nmch waste land. ... On Alonday
we set ofl" again a little after six o'clock — a fine morning
— eight miles to Killin — the river Dochart always on
our left. The face of the country not very interesting,
though not unjjleasing, reminding us of some of the
vales of the north of England, though meagi-e, nipped-
up, or shrivelled compared with them. Within a mile
or two of Killin the land was better cultivated, and,
looking down the vale, we had a view of Loch Tay.
. . . We crossed the Dochart by means of three
bridges, which make one continued bridge of great
length. On an islan<l Ijelow the bridge is a gateway
with tall pillars, leading to an old burying-ground be-
longing to some noble family' (pp. 185-187 of Recollec-
timis of a Tour in Scotland, ed. by Princ. Shairp, 1874).
This burying-gi-ound is that of the Macnabs, from whom
Glcu Dochart was named the Macnab country. It now
353
DOLL
is included in the Breadalbane territory, the clan having
emigrated to Canada in the first two decades of the
present century. Francis, twelfth laird (1734-181G),
was an eccentric character, who, in company once with
some English gentlemen connected with the Excise,
answered a query respecting the state of Glen Dochart
with : ' Ther was once a crater callt exciseman sent
up to my country, but — they kilt him.' — Ord. Sur., sh.
46, 1872.
Dochfour, a lake in Inverness parish, Inverness-shire,
in the Great Glen, 5 miles SW of Inverness town. An
expansion of the river Ness, separated by a run of
only \ mile of that river from the foot of Loch Ness, it
measures 1^ by \ mile, and is sometimes called Little
Loch Ness. The hills around are beautifully wooded,
and a burn that runs into it makes some pretty cascades.
Dochfour House, on its western shore is a mansion in
the Venetian style, described by Prince Albert as 'new
and very elegant, with a fine garden,' on occasion of his
visit here, 16 Sept. 1847. Its owner, Evan Baillie, Esq.
(b. 1798), holds 141,148 acres in the shire, valued at
£15,931 per annum.— Orrf. Sur., sh. S3, ISSl.
Dochgarroch, a hamlet in Inverness parish, Inver-
ness-shire, on the Caledonian Canal, at the foot of Loch
Dochfour, 4J miles SW of Inverness. It has a regulat-
ing lock on the canal, for averting winter floods of Loch
Ness whenever these rise above the standard-level of the
navigation ; and has also a public school.
Dodbum. See Allan, Roxburghshire.
Dod Hill. See Wanlockhead.
Dods-Corse Stone, an ancient cross on Boon farm, in
Legerwood j)arish, Berwickshire, 4 miles ESE of Lauder.
It is a sandstone shaft, sunk into a square sandstone
block, and is said to have been a market-cross.
Dodside, a hamlet in Mearns parish, SE Renfrewshire,
near Newton-Mearns.
Doecleugh, a place on Skelfliill farm, in Teviothead
parish, Roxburghshire, 7 miles SSW of Hawick. It has
an ancient Caledonian hill-fort, and it adjoins the line
of the Catrail.
Dogden, an extensive moss on the mutual border of
Greenlaw and Westruther parishes, Berwickshire.
Dogs, Isle of, a tiny wooded island in Loch Laggan,
Laggan parish, Inverness-shire, nearlj' opposite Ardveri-
kie. It is said to have contained the kennel of ancient
Scottish kings for their huntings in Lochaber.
Dog's Stone (Gael. Clach-a-Choin), a huge isolated
conglomerate block on the shore of Oban Bay, Argyll-
shire, f mile NNW of Oban town. AVith a deejily
water-worn base, and an outline somewhat similar to
that of an inverted cone, it embeds large fragments and
boulders, and seems at one time to have formed part of
a high precipitous sea beach. Curious legends are
attached to it — that Fingal here tethered his ' blue-eyed
hunter' Bran, and that the Lords of Lorn kennelled
their hounds beside it at their hunting expeditions with
the Lords of the Isles.
Dogton, a farm in Kinglassie parish, Fife, 4f miles
NW of Kirkcaldy. It contains an ancient hewn stand-
ing stone, 4 1 feet high above the socket, and 11 inches
thick.
Doine, a lake in Balquhidder parish, Perthshire, in
the ujjper part of the Balquhidder vale, 4| miles W
by S of Balquhidder hamlet. Lying 420 feet above sea-
level, it has an utmost length and breadth of 7i and 2^
furlongs ; is overhung steeply to the N by ]\Ieall Jlona-
chyle (2123 feet) ; and by a reach of the river Balvag,
1^ furlong in length, communicates eastward with Loch
VoiL, from which it is separated by only a low patch
of haugh, that in times of freshet is sometimes over-
flowed.— 0/y;. Sur., sh. 46, 1872.
Doll, a glen in the NW of Cortachy and Clova parish,
Forfarshire, near the meeting-point with Pcrtli and
Aberdeen shires. It is traversed by the White Water,
running 6\ miles cast-south-eastward to the river South
Esk, at a point 3 miles WNW of Clova hamlet ; and it
is remarkalile for the variety of its flora and for an over-
hanging rock, the Scorrie of the Doll. — Ord. Sur., sh.
Go, 1870.
DOLLAR
Dollar (Celt, dal-aird, 'vale amid the hills'), a small
town and a parish of Clackmannanshire. The town
stands at the foot of the Ochils, ISO feet above sea-
level, and 5 furlongs N of the right bank of the Devon ;
and by the Devon Valley section (1851-71) of the North
British it is 6 J miles NE by E of Alloa, 41 i NW of Edin-
burgh, 12| ENE of Stirling, and lOf WSW of Kinross.
Traversed by Dollar Burn, whose glen, followed up-
wards, leads to the noble ruins of Castle-Campbell,
it has been greatly improved and extended in recent
years, and presents a pleasant picturesque appearance ;
at it are a post office, with money order, savings' bank,
and telegraph departments, a branch of the Clydesdale
Bank, the Castle-Campbell hotel, gas-works, the Dollar
club, a working men's reading-room, ableachfield (1787),
and two brick and tile works. Fairs are held on the
second Monday in May and tlie third Monday in Octo-
ber. Places of worship are the parish church (1841 ;
700 sittings), an imposing Gothic structure, with a con-
spicuous tower ; a neat Free church (1858 ; 600 sittings) ;
aU.P. church (1876; 360 sittings), built at a cost of
£4500, and adorned \vith a spire 70 feet high ; and the
new Episcopal church of St James the Greater (1882),
Early English in style, with apsidal chancel, 7 rose
■irindows, 8 lancets, etc. John M'Nab (1732-1802), a
Dollar herd-boy, who as a sea-captain had risen to wealth
and settled at Mile-end, London, left £55,110 Three per
Cents, the half of his fortune, ' for the endowment of a
charity or school for the poor of the parish of Dollar. '
With this bequest, which by the end of 1825 had accum-
ulated to £74,236, was founded in 1818 Dollar Institu-
tion or Academy, whose board of trustees comprises 15
ex officio members under an Act of 1847, and which,
•with a principal and 20 other teachers, gives (1882)
instruction to 402 paying and 110 free scholars in classics,
French, German, English, history, mathematics, mecha-
nics, science, drawing, singing, and other branches of a
liberal education ; whilst its lower and infant depart-
ments, with accommodation for 597 children, had (1880)
an average attendance of 373, and a grant of £323. The
building, erected in 1819 after designs by W. Playfair,
of Edinburgh, and gi'eatly extended in 1867, is a Grecian
edifice, 186 feet long and 63 wide, with a hexastyle
portico ; a dome, upborne by fluted columns ; a library,
45 feet square and 45 high, containing 5000 volumes ; a
splendid upper hall, 60 feet long, 42 vride, and 24 high ;
and a well-kept garden of 5 acres. The Institution has
drawn, on the one hand, many families to Dollar ; and,
on the other, a number of its scholars board with the
principal or under masters : its former alumni include
James Dewar, since 1875 Jacksonian professor of natural
and experimental philosophy at Cambridge, and a goodly
list besides of distinguished ministers, engineers, mer-
chants, and others. Its income in 1881 comprised
£2235 from endowment, £1750 from school fees and
£739 from other sources ; whilst the expenditure
amounted to £4605, of which £3075 was for salaries.
Pop. of town (1841) 1131, (1851) 1079, (1861) 1540,
(1871) 2090, (1881) 2120.
The parish, containing also Sheardale village. If mile
to the SSW, is bounded NW by Blackford, and N by
Glendevon, in Perthshire ; E by Muckhart and Fossoway,
both also in Perthshire ; S by Clackmannan ; and W by
Tillicoultry. Its utmost length, from N to S, is 3 J miles ;
its breadth, from E to W, varies between 1§ and 3g miles ;
and its area is 4795^ acres, of which 22 are water. The
Devon, entering from Muckhart, winds 3| miles west-
ward, across the southern interior and on or close to
the Tillicoultry border, and receives on the way Dollar
Bum, which, itself hurrying 1| mile south-by-eastward
past the town, is formed just below Castle-Campbell by
the Bums of Sorrow and Care, running 2J miles east-
south-eastward, and li mile south -south-eastward and
southward, from the northern confines of the parish.
Westward along the Devon the surface declines to close
upon 50 feet abo%'e sea-level, thence rising southward to
353 feet near Sheardale, and northward to 538 near
Hillfoot House, 2111 at King's Seat on the western
border, and 2110 at "NVTiitewisp Hill in the N — smooth
DOLPHINTON
summits these of the green pastoral Ochils, that com-
mand magnificent views. A spongy morass, Maddy
Moss, on the NW border, lying at an altitude of from
1500 to 1750 feet, and covering upwards of 150 acres,
occasionally bursts its barrier, and sends down a muddy
torrent, by the Burn of Sorrow, to the Devon. The rocks
of the hills are eruptive, those of the valley carbonifer-
ous. Coal and sandstone are plentiful ; copper, iron,
and lead were formerly wrought in the Ochils, a little
above the town ; and beautiful agates have been found
on the top of Whitewisp; whilst a chalybeate spring,
powerfully astringent and of medicinal efficacy both ex-
ternally and internally, was discovered in 1830 at Vicar's
Bridge. The soil is argillaceous along the Devon, and
on the lands thence to the hills is light and gravelly —
about 1740 acres being either arable or grass land, 230
under wood, and all the rest either hill-pasture or waste.
In 877 the Danes, expelled by the Norwegians from
Ireland, entered the Firth of Clyde, and, passing through
the region watered by the Teith and Forth, attacked the
province of Fife. A battle fought by them at Dollar
went against the Scots, who, fleeing north-eastward to
Inverdovet in Forgan, were there a second time routed,
King Constantin mac Kenneth being among the multi-
tude of the slain (Skene's Celtic Scotland, i. 327, 1876).
The other chief episode in Dollar's history is the burning
of its vicar, Thomas Forret, for heresy, at Edinburgh,
in 1538. From 1493 to 1605 most of the parish belonged
to the Earls of Argyll ; at present 4 proprietors hold each
an annual value of £500 and upwards, 10 of between
£100 and £500, 18 of from £50 to £100, and 44 of from
£20 to £50. Dollar is in the presbytery of Stirling and
svnod of Perth and Stirling ; the living is worth £243.
Valuation (1866) £6049, (1882) £12,641, 15s. Pop.
(1801) 693, (1831) 1447, (1861) 1776, (1871) 2524.
(1881) 24:99.— Ord. Sur., sh. 39, 1867.
Dollar Law, a mountain on the mutual bor er of
]\Ianor and Drummekier parishes, Peeblesshire, 4| miles
SE of Drummelzier village, and 9h miles SW by S of
Peebles. Rising 2680 feet above sea-level, it commands
a view over the Lothians, and away over Berwickshire,
to Northumberland.
Dollars, an estate, with a mansion, in Riccarton parish,
Ayrshire, on the left bank of Cessnock Water, 4| miles;
SE of Kilmarnock.
DoUas. See Dallas.
DoUerie, a mansion in Madderty parish, Perthshire^
2f miles E by S of Crieff. Its owner, Anthony Murray.
Esq. (b. 1802 ; sue. 1838), holds 1104 acres in the shire,
valued at £1768 per annum.
Dolls. See Glenochil.
Dolphingston, a hamlet in Prestonpans parish, Had-
dingtonshire, 1^ mile W of Tranent. It contains several
broken walls and gables, evidently of great antiquity,
and probably monastic.
Dolphinton, a post-office hamlet and a parish on the
eastern border of the upper ward of Lanai-kshire. The
hamlet stands 7 furlongs SSW of Dolphinton station,
which, as the junction of two branches of the Caledonian
and North British, is 11 miles E by N of Carstairs, IC
WSW of Leadburn, and 27^ SW of Edinburgh.
The parish is bounded NE and E by Linton, and SE
by Kirkiu'd, in Peeblesshire , SW by Walston ; and NW
by Dunsyre. In shape a triangle, with southward apex,
it has an utmost length from N by E to S by W of of
miles, an utmost breadth from E to W of 2^ miles, and
an area of 3581^ acres, of which 7^ are water. The
drainage belongs partly to the Clyde, partly to the
Tweed, inasmuch as South Medwin Water runs 2|
miles south-westward along all the boundary with Dun-
syre, Tahtii Water 1 mile southward along that with Lin-
ton ; and Back Burn, rising in tlie S of the parish, flows
3 miles north-eastward to the Tarth through the interior.
In the \V along the Medwin the surface declines to a little
more, in the E along the Tartli to a little less, than 700
feet above sea-level ; and the ' divide ' between the two
river systems is marked by White Hill (1437 feet) and
Blacic Mount (1689). The rocks, over nine-tenths of
the entire area, are eruptive ; the soil, in most parts, is
DOLPHISTON
a dry friable earth or sandy loam. More than 300 acres
are under wood, and about 250 acres of the uplands
might be profitably reclaimed. The manor belonged in
the former half of the 12th century to Dolfine, elder
brother of the first Earl of Dunbar, after whom it re-
ceived its name ; subsci]uently it became a pertinent of
BoTHWELL, and shared long in the fortunes of that
barony. Major Learmont, who commanded the Cove-
nanting horse at the battle of RuUion Green (1666), and
long lay in hiding from pursuit by the authorities, held
the property of Newholm, and was interred in Dolphin-
ton churchyard; "William Leechman, D.D. (1706-85),
professor of theology in Glasgow university, was son of
a Dolphinton farmer ; and Dr Alton, author of interest-
ing works on Palestine, was minister, and wrote the
article ' Dolphinton ' for the iN'ceo Statistical Account.
Dolphinton House, a little W of the village, is the seat
of John Ord Mackenzie, Esq., W.S. (b. ISll ; sue. 1850),
who owns 3027 acres, valued at £2262 per annum. This
parish is in the presbytery of Biggar and synod of Lothian
and Tweeddale ; the living is worth £208. The church
is old, and contains 1-10 sittings ; whilst a public
school, with accommodation for 83 children, had (1880)
an average attendance of 46, and a grant of £48, ISs.
Valuation (1882) £3464, 4s. Pop. (1801) 231, (1831)
302, (1861) 260, (1871) 231, (1881) 292.— Ord. Sur.,
sh. 24, 1864.
Dolphiston, a farm in Oxnam parish, Roxburghshire,
near the right bank of Jed Water, 4f miles SSE of
Jedburgh. Its curious old Border fortalice, now de-
molished, was the haunt of a brownie, till, hurt 1)y the
ofifer of a coarse linen shirt, he departed, and in depart-
ing sang—
' Sin' ye've gien me a harden ramp,
Nae mair o' 3'our corn I \rill tramp.'
Don, a river of S Aberdeenshire, that forms a sort of
twin stream to the Dee, ranking next thereto among
Aberdeenshire rivers as regards at once basin, magni-
tude, and notability, and possessing like it much volume
of water and much fine scenery, with very little com-
mercial importance. Yet the Don differs essentially
from the Dee in some great characters and even presents
some striking contrasts. It rises, as a small mossy
stream, If mile SSAV of Meikle Geal Charn (2833 feet),
close to the Banffshire border, and within a mile of the
river Aven ; and thence winds eastward in a direction
somewhat parallel to the Dee, at a mean distance of
about 9 miles to the N, but through a country much
less mountainous, and abounding far more in plains and
meadows. AVith little or none of the impetuousness or
fitfulness of the Dee, it displays a prevailing current of
gentleness, calmness, and regularity, and, making great
loops and bends now to the right, now to the left, it
falls at last into the German Ocean, 1 mile NE of Old
Aberdeen, and 2i miles N of the mouth of the Dee.
From soiu'ce to mouth it has a total length, following
its windings, of 82 J miles, viz., 20§ to Castlc-Newe
bridge, 42| thence to the Ury's influx, and 19^ thence
to the sea. And from 1980 feet above sea-level at its
source, it descends to 1320 at Cock Bridge near Corgarff
Castle, 900 near Castle-Newe, 450 near Alford, and 170
at the mouth of the Ury. Its chief tributaries are the
Conrie, tlie Carvie, and the Leochel on the right bank,
and the Ernan, the Nochty, the Bucket, the Kindy, and
the Ury on the left. The parishes traversed or bounded
by it are Strathdon, Tarland, Glenbucket, Kildrummy,
Towie, Leochel, Auchindoir, Alford, Tullynessle, Keig,
Tough, Monymusk, Oyne, Chapel of Garioch, Kemnay,
Inverurie, Kintore, Keithhall, Fintray, Kinnellar, Dyce,
New Machar, Newhills, and Old Machar ; and in our
articles on these parishes details will be found as to the
villages, seats, etc., along its banks.
The river's course, from the liead of Strathdon to the
upper part of Alford, lies chiefly along a series of glens ;
contracts then, for a short distance, into a narrow gullet ;
but opens presently into a considerable vale, with great
expanses of meadowland on tlie immediate banks ; and
lastly, from the New Bridge of Old Aberdeen to the sea,
is a narrow artificial channel. Its original mouth is
360
DOON
presumed to have been identical with that of the Dee ;
was afterwards at a point nearly midway between the
Dee's and its own present mouth ; and was diverted to
its present situation by the cutting of an artificial chan-
nel for its lower reach, about the year 1750, under the
direction of Professor James Gregory. The river is sub-
ject to great freshets ; swept away, in the autumn of 1768,
the greater part of the crops on the haughs and level
lands adjacent to its bed ; made similar devastation in
Aug. 1799 ; rose, on 4 Aug. 1829, to a height of 14
feet above its ordinary level ; and is now prevented
from working similar havoc onl}' hy extensive embank-
ments in the parts of its course most subject to inunda-
tion. It is one of the best trouting streams in Scotland
(especiall}' in its ujiper waters), and has some valuable
salmon fishings. Pike are fortunately few ; but river
trout, ranging in weight from h lb. to 5 lbs. , abound, as
also do salmon and sea-trout. As many as forty salmon
were killed in one season, by a single rod, in one pool
near Alford Bridge ; and 3000 salmon and grilse were
netted at its mouth in a single week of July 1849.
Between 1790 and 1800 the yearly average number of
salmon and grilse caught in the Don amounted to
43,240, between 1813 and 1824 to 40,677 ; and in 1881
towards the end of July and throughout August the net
fishings of the nether Don yielded between 300 and 400
salmon per day, but this was a great improvement over
the past two years. — Ord. Sur., shs. 75, 76, 77, 1876-73.
See chap. xxii. of Sir Thomas Dick Lauder's Moray
Floods (Elgin, 1830 ; 3d ed. 1873).
Don, a sea-loch in the E of Mull island, Argyllshire,
opposite the middle of Kerrera. Striking 2| miles north-
westward, and nowhere exceeding 1 mile in width, it
has, at the S side of its mouth, the hamlet of Achnacraig.
Donald's Cleuch, a cul de sac in the SE of Tweedsmuir
parish, Peeblesshire, striking off from Gameshope Burn
to Donald's Clench Head (2616 feet) on the Dumfries-
shire border. It is thought to have got its name from
being a retreat of the famous Covenanter, Donald Cargill.
Donan, a small island at the SW corner of Ross-shire,
in Loch Alsh, at the point where that sea-loch forks
into Lochs Long and Duich.
Donan Castle. See Castle-Donnan.
Donavourd, an estate, with a mansion, in Logierait
parish, Perthshire, near the left bank of the Tay, 2 miles
SE of Pitlochry. Its o\vner, George Gordon, Escp (b.
1816 ; sue. 1838), holds 2760 acres in the shire, valued
at £577 per annum.
Don, Bridge of, a suburb of Old Aberdeen, in Old
]\Iachar parish, Aberdeenshire, on the river Don, 2 miles
N of Alierdcen, under which it has a post office.
Donibristle, an estate in Dalgety parish, Fife, on the
Firth of Fortli, 3 miles WSW of Aberdour. Long the
property of the abbots of Inchcolm, it was granted along
with the other possessions of that abbey to Sir James
Stuart, Lord Donne, whose son and namesake, the
' I)onny Earl of Moray,' was slain here by Gordon of
Cluny and the Earl of Huntly on 7 Feb. 1592 — an
episode that forms the theme of a fine old ballad. The
present Earl of Moray holds 7463 acres in Fife, valued
at £11,086 per annum. The mansion of Donibristle has
thrice been burned, on the last occasion in 1858, when
a number of valual)le portraits perished in the flames.
Donibristle Colliery, a village, with a public school,
in Aberdour parish, Fife, 2 miles ESE of Crossgates.
Doon, a steep round hill (945 feet) in Tynron parish,
Dumfriesshire, terminating the SE end of a hill-range
between Scar and Shinnel Waters, 4 miles WSW of
Thornhill. It seems anciently to have been thickly
clothed with forest, and was crowned at an early period
by some kind of fortalice or habitation, which is said
to have been a retreat of Robert Bruce, after his slaying
the Red Comyn at Dumfries.
Doon, a huig hill of considerable height (582 feet), the
outmost spur of tlie Lammermuirs, in Spott parish, Had-
dingtonshire, 2J miles S by E of Dunbar. On its top
and slope lay David Leslie's Scotch army, 23, 000 strong,
the two first days of September 1650, the third being that
of the Battle of Dunbak.
BOON
DORES
Doon, a loch partly in Kirkcudbrightshire, but chiofly
in Ayrshire, and a river dividing the Ayrshire districts
of Carrick and Kyle. Lying 680 feet above sea-level,
the loch extends 5| miles north-by-eastward and north-
westward to within 3 miles of Dalmellington town, and
varies in width between 2 and 6h furlongs. It receives,
at its head, Gala and Carrick Lanes, discharging the
effluence of Lochs Enoch, Macaterick, and Riecawr ; on
its western side, is joined by Garpel Burn, flowing out
of Loch Finlas ; and, at its foot, sends 'off the river
Doon. Its surface is studded with five little islands
or groups of islands, viz., from S to N, Pickinaw Isles,
Castle Island, Saugh Island, Garpel Islands, and Gor-
don's Island, on the second of which is a ruined octan-
gular tower — ' Balliol's Castle.' By Chalmers this was
identified wath Laight Alpin, the scene of the death
of King Alpin of Dalriada in 741, which Skene, how-
ever, places on the eastern shore of Loch Ryan ; by
Tytler it is said to have been basely yielded to the Eng-
lish in 1306, when Seaton, its lord, who had married a
sister of Bruce, was carried to Dumfries and executed. In
1S26, nine ancient canoes, hollowed each from a single
oak tree, and from 16J to 22J feet long, were found
sunk in the loch near this islet. Boats are kept, and
trout and char are fairly plentiful. ' Viewed from a
distant eminence,' says Mr Harper, 'Loch Doon has
more the appearance of a river than a lake. It is sur-
rounded by lofty hills (1000 to 2000 feet in height) on
both the Carsphairn or Galloway and the Straiton or
Carrick side, the Gallowegian being green and grassy,
excellent for sheep pasture, to which they are almost
entirely devoted. Those on the Carrick side are wild
and solitary, vnih nought but rocks and heather. By
tunnels, which have been formed to prevent the lake,
when swollen by heavy rains, from overflowing the ex-
tensive tracts of meadow-land along the banks of the
river, its waters have been lowered considerably from
their original level, and the exposure of tracts of barren
sand, gravel, and stone on its banks, detracts consider-
ably from its beauty ' {llamhles in Galloway, 1876).
The river Doon, emerging by these two tunnels, cut out
of the solid rock, rushes impetuously into ISTess Glen, a
romantic wooded gorge some 30 feet wide, 300 deep, and
1 mile long ; expands next into Bogton Loch (6 x 1\
furl. ), in the vicinity of Dalmellington ; and thence
winds north-westward, past Waterside, Patna, Dalrymple,
Cassills House, Auchendrane House, and Alloway, till,
after a total course of 26| miles, it falls into the Firth
of Clyde, If mile S by W of Ayr. Its tributaries are
numerous, but small. The parishes, on its left bank,
are Straiton, Kirkmichael, and Maybole ; on its right,
Dalmellington, Dalrymple, and Ayr or Alloway. For
the first 3 miles below Bogton Loch the Doon's right
bank is fringed by the crescent-shaped vale of Dalmel-
lington ; . for the next 5, on either side rise treeless,
heathy knolls, or tame, uninteresting hills ; but thence,
right onward to the sea, the stream has channelled out
a mighty furrow, 10 to 200 feet deep, and 30 to 150
yards wide at the top, its bosky sides —
' the bonnie winding banks
Wliere Doon rins, wimplin, clear.'
' Naebody sings the Doon, ' thus Bums complained in
1785 ; but Burns himself atoned for the neglect, so that
its ' Banks and Braes, ' the Downans of Cassillis, and
auld Kirk-Alloway ' shine wi' the best ' now, even with
Tweed and Yarrow. Its waters contain good store of
trout, sea-trout, and salmon ; and large pike lurk in its
more sluggish pools. — Ord, Sur., shs. 8, 14, 1863.
Doon Hill. See Doon.
Doonholm, a mansion in Ayr parish, A}Tshire, on the
right bank of the Doon, 3 miles S of the town of Ayr.
It is the seat of the judge, Colin Blackburn, P.C. (b.
1813), who in 1876 received a life-peerage as Baron
Blackburn of Killearn, and who holds 154 acres in the
shire, valued at £344 per annum.
Doonside, an estate, with a mansion, and with ves-
tiges of an ancient castle, in Maybole parish, Ayrshire,
on the left bank of the Doon, 3 miles S of Ayr.
Dorary, an isolated hilly pendicle of Thurso parish,
Caithness, surrounded by Reay and Halkirk parishes,
4^ miles SSW of the main body of Thurso parish. It
belonged to the Bishops of Caithness ; it has remains of
an ancient chapel, called Gavin's Kirk or Temple Gavin ;
and it commands a very grand and extensive view.
Dorback Bum. See Abernethy, Inverness-shire.
Dorbock, a picturesque rivulet of Edinkillie parish,
Elginshire, issuing from Locuindokb (969 feet), and
running 8| miles north-north-eastward along the Crom-
dale border and through the interior, till, \ mile S of
Dunphail House, it falls into the Divie, like which it
wrought great havoc in the August floods of 1829. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 84, 1876.
Doreholm, an islet of Northmaven parish, Shetland, on
the N side of St Magnus Bay, 1^ mile ESE of the south-
western extremity of Northmaven mainland. It rises
rockily and massively from the water, and is pierced by a
natural arch or tunnel, 54 feet high, lighted by an open-
ing at the top, and permitting boatmen to fish under it.
Doras. See Kettixs.
Dores, a village and a parish of NE Inverness-shire.
The village stands on the eastern shore of Loch Ness,
towards its foot, 7 miles SSW of Inverness, under which
it has a post office ; at it are a small inn and a steam-
boat pier.
The parish is bounded NE by Inverness, SE by
Daviot-Dunlichity and the Farraline section of Bole-
skine, SW by Boleskine-Abertarff, and NW bj' Loch
Ness and Inverness. Its utmost length, from NNE to
SSW, is 15i miles ; its breadth, from WNW to ESE,
varies between 1 furlong and 4J miles ; and its land
area is 25,693 acres, including the two small Dell and
Killin sections, surrounded by Boleskine. The river
Faeigaig, entering from Daviot, and winding 65 miles
north-north-westward and south-westward to Loch Ness
at the south-western corner of the parish, is the only
considerable stream ; and the eastei'n half of the lower
lOf miles of Loch Ness belong to Dores. Other lakes,
with utmost length and breadth and altitude, are Lochs
Bunachton (| x ^ mile, 701 feet), Dundelchack (3|
miles X 1 mile, 702 feet), and Ruthven (2J miles x 4^
furl., 700 feet), on the Daviot border ; Loch Farraline
(9 X 2 J furl. , 650 feet), on the Boleskine detached bor-
der ; and, in the interior. Loch Ashey (If mile x 5
furl., 716 feet), Lochan nan cun Ruadha (3| x 2 furl.,
750 feet). Loch Ceo-Glas (7x1 furl., 760 feet), and
eight smaller ones. Except for the narrow strip along
Loch Ness, traversed by Wade's military road, which
ranges in altitude between 56 and 106 feet above sea-
level, for Strath Dores, and for a portion of Strath-
errick, the surface everywhere is hilly or mountainous,
elevations from NNE to SSW being Drumashie Moor
(776 feet), Creag a' Chlachain (1000), Ashie Moor (790),
Tom Bailgeann (1514), Carn an Fheadain (1445), and
Cairn Ardochy (1116). Llost of the land is suited only
for sheep-pasture, the light arable soils lying chiefly
along the bottom of the valleys, but with patches here
and there among the hills. The rocks are mainly
granitic ; and woods and plantations cover a consider-
able area, especially along the shore of Loch Ness.
Vestiges of an ancient fort, supposed to be Scandinavian,
and called Dun-Richnan or the Castle of the King of the
Ocean, are at the head of Loch Ashey, I4 mile SE of the
village ; and several cairns a little to the E, one of them
almost equal in size to all the rest, are fabled to com-
memorate a victory won by Fingal over Ashi, the son of
a Norwegian king, and give the name of Drumashie
('Ashi's ridge') to their site. Aldourie Castle is
the principal mansion ; and 3 pro]>rietors hold each
an annual value of £500 and upwards, 4 of between
£100 and £500. Dores is in the presbytery of Inver-
ness and synod of Moray ; the living is worth £300,
The parish church, at the village, was built in 1828,
and contains 500 sittings. A preaching-station is at
Torness, in Stratherrick, 6 miles S of the village ; and
a Free church for Dores and Bona stands \% mile NNE
of the same ; whilst three public schools — Aldourie,
Bunchrubin, and Strathenick — with respective accom.
361
DORMONT
modation for 125, 80, and 110 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 20, 18, and 48, and grants of
£35, Is., £26, and £55, 18s. Valuation (1881^ £9008, 9s.
Pop. (1801) 1313, (1831) 1736, (1861) 1506, (1871) 1401,
(1881) 1146.— Orrf. Siir., shs. 73, 83, 1878-81.
Dormont, an estate, with a mansion, in Dalton parish,
Dumfriesshire. The mansion, standing on tlie right bank
of the Annan, 6 miles SSW of Lockerbie, was built in
1823, and is an elegant edifice, amid charming grounds ;
its o^vner, William Carruthers, Esq. (b. 1867 ; sue. 1878),
holds 6355 acres in the shire, valued at £4698 per annum.
Dormont, a small vale in Hounam parish, Roxburgh-
shire.
Domadilla, an ancient ' dun ' or tower in Durness par-
ish, Sutherland, in Strathmore, near the S base of Ben
Hope. Traditionally said to have been built by a Scottish
king, to serve as a hunting seat, it is now reduced to a
fragment, which, 16 feet high and 150 feet in circum-
ference, consists of two concentric walls of slaty stones.
Domal, a loch on the mutual border of Colmonell par-
ish, S Ayrshire, and Penninghame parish, NE Wigtown-
shire, 5f miles SE of Barrhill station. Lying 380 feet
above sea-level, it is 5 furlongs long from E to W ; varies
in width between 1 and 4^ furlongs ; is studded with six
or seven tiny islets ; contains pike and trout, the latter
of from h lb. to 5 or 6 lbs. weight ; and sends off Carrick
Burn, running 2;^ miles eastward to the Cree, at a point
2 miles W by S of Bargrennan. — Ord. Siir., sh. 8, 1863.
Domie, a fishing village in Kintail parish, Ross-shire,
at the head of Loch Alsh, where it branches into Lochs
Long and Duich, and in the vicinity of Castle-Donnan,
7i miles S of Strome Ferry. It contains some good
houses, and has a post oSice under Lochalsh, a girls'
public school, and a ferry across the outlet of Loch Long.
Domoch, a coast town and parish of SE Sutherland.
The capital of the count}', and a royal and parliamentary
burgh, the town is 8f miles N by E of Tain vid Meikle
Ferry, 14.^ E of Bonar-Bridge station, and 7 SSE of the
Mound station, ^vith which it communicates daily by
mail gig, and which itself is 20i miles SW of Helms-
dale, 23 ENE of Bonar-Bridge, 805 NNE of Inverness,
272J NNW of Edinburgh, and 289 NNE of Glasgow.
'Close outside the town,' says AVorsaae, 'there stands
the Earl's Cross, a stone pillar in an open field, which
is simply the remains of one of those market-crosses, so
often erected in pre-Reformation times. As a matter of
course, the arms of the Earls of Sutherland are carved
on one side of the stone, and on the other are the arms
of the town — a horsealioe. Tradition, however, will
Seal of Dornoch.
have it that the pillar was reared in memory of a battle,
fought towards the middle of the 13th century by an
Earl of Sutherland against the Danes. In tlie heat of
the fray, while the Earl was engaged in hand-to-hand
combat with the Danish chief, his sword broke : but in
this desperate strait, he was lucky enough to lay hold
of a horseshoe (the whole leg of a horse, say some) that
accidentally lay near him, with which he succeeded in
killing his antagonist. The horseshoe is said to have
362
DORNOCH
been adopted in the arms of the town in memory of this
feat ; ' and the name Dornoch is popularly derived from
the Gaelic dorn-eich, 'a horse's hoof,' though dor-n-ach,
' field between two waters,' is a far more probable
etymon. Be this as it may, Dornoch, to quote Profes-
sor J. S. Blackie, who wandered hither in the autumn
of 1881, is 'an old-fashioned, outlying, outlandish grey
nest, to which no stranger ever thinks of going except
the sheriff of the county, and he only half a stranger ;
. . an interesting old town, with a splendid
beach for bathing, a fresh, breezy, and dry atmosphere,
and a golfing ground second to none in Scotland. ' Of
the last, indeed. Sir Robert Gordon wrote in 1630 that
' about this toun, along the sea coast, there are the
fairest and largest linkes or green feilds of any pairt of
Scotland, fitt for archery, golfing, ryding, and all other
exercise ; they doe surpasse the feilds of Montrose or
St Andrews.' The town itself — no more than a village
really — consists of wide regular streets, and has a post
office, with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph
departments, a branch of the Caledonian Bank, 6 in-
surance agencies, 2 hotels, a newsroom, and a public
library. The see of Caithness, first heard of about 1130,
had here its principal church, dedicated to St Bar or Fin-
bar ; by Bishop Gilbert de Moravia (1222-45) this church
was organised as the cathedral of the Virgin Mary, with
a chapter of ten canons, a dean, precentor, chancellor,
treasurer, and archdeacon ; and, as rebuilt by him, in
the First Pointed style, it consisted of an aisled nave,
transept, choir, and massive central tower, topped with
a dwarfish spire. The tower is all that remains of St
Gilbert's work, since in 1570 the cathedral was burned
by John Sinclair, Master of Caithness, and lye Mackay
of Strathnaver, who, taking advantage of the minority
of Alexander, twelfth Earl of Sutherland, besieged and
plundered Dornoch with a small army fi'om Caithness.
Fortunately the tower escaped, and with it some fine
Gothic arches, which latter, however, fell before the
terrific gale of 5 Nov. 1605 — the day on which the Gun-
powder Plot was discovered. In 1614 the thirteenth Earl
of Sutherland partially repaired the cathedral, to make
it available for parish church ; and in 1835-37 it was
rebuilt by the Duchess of Sutherland at a cost of £6000.
The present fabric, containing 1000 sittings, is a mix-
ture of Gothic and Vandalism, and measures 126 feet
by 92 across the transepts. In the southern transept
lie sixteen of the Earls of Sutherland ; in the northern
is a stone sarcophagus, removed from the choir, and
surmounted by a cross-legged effigy of either the founder
or the founder's brother. Sir Richard de Moravia ; and
the choir, now mausoleum of the Sutherland family, is
graced by a fine marble full-length statue of the first
Duke (1758-1833) by Chantrey, with a large tablet
behind, recording the lineage and virtues of his Duchess-
Countess (1765-1839). An old tower, fronting the
cathedral, represents the Bishop's Palace, which, also
burned in 1570, lay in ruins till 1813, when jiart of it
was fitted up as the county courthouse and gaol. Subse-
quently the whole was removed, excepting this western
tower, lofty and picturesque ; and on the site thus
cleared were built the large and handsome County
Buildings, comprising courthouse, prison, record-room,
and county meeting-room. The prison was discontinued
in 1880, that of Dingwall taking its place ; and in 1881
the ancient tower was refitted and refurbished as a quaint
dwelling-place for English sportsmen. Of a monastery
of Trinity Friars, alleged by Gordon to have been
founded here between 1270 and 1280, not even a vestige
remains. Besides the Cathedral, now used as the parish
church, there is also a Free church ; and a public school
and a Christian Knowledge Society's school, with respec-
tive accommodation for 135 and 84 children, had (1880)
an average attendance of 49 and 42, and grants of
£39, 5s. 6d. and £32, 3s. Erected into a free royal
burgh and port by Charles I. in 1628, Dornoch is
governed l)y a provost, 2 bailies, a dean of guild, a
treasurer, and 4 councillors ; with Wick, Tain, Ding-
wall, Cromarty, and Kirkwall it returns one memlier to
parliament. The municipal and parliamentary consti-
DORNOCH, FIRTH OF
tuency numbered 71 in 1SS2, when the annual value of
real property was £901. Pop. (1831) 504, (1841) 451,
(1851) 599, (1S61) 647, (1871) 625, (1881) 496.
The parish contains also the villages of Clashmore and
Embo, 3f miles W, and 2| NNE, of tlie town ; and it
comprises the Kinnauld portion which, surrounded by
Eogart and Golspie, and lying, 5 furlongs N of the
main body, along the left bank of the Fleet, measures
1^ by 1 mile, and adjoins Rogart station, close to its
western extremity. It is bounded NW and N by
Rogart, XE by Golspie, E and S by the Dornoch Firth,
and SW and W by Creich ; and has a varying length
from E to "W of 4| and 9 J miles, a varying breadth from
N to S of 7 furlongs and 8§ miles, and an area of 33,931
acres, of which 3194^ are foreshore and 284 water,
■while 717§ belong to the detached portion. The Fleet
flows 2 miles east-south-eastward along the Golspie
border to the head of salt-water Loch Fleet, which, 3^
miles long, and from IJ furlong to 1§ mile wide, opens
beyond Little Ferry to Dornoch Firth ; the Cairnaig,
issuing from Loch Buie, runs 6| miles east-by-northward
to the Fleet through the north-western interior ; and
the EvELix winds 5J miles east-south-eastward along
the boundary -with Creich, then 7| miles east-south-
eastward and west-south-westward to Dornoch Firth at
Meikle Ferry. The seaboard, 12 miles long, is low antl
flat, fringed to the S by Cuthill and Dornoch sands and
links, to the E by Embo and Coul links ; inland the
surface rises west-north-westward to 261 feet near Asdale,
700 at Creag Asdale, 290 near Poles, 326 near Achavan-
dra, 700 at Creag Amaill, 930 at Creag Liath, 1000 at
Meall nan Eun, 898 at Cnoc na Feadaige, 1048 at Meall
a' Chaoruinn, and 1144 at Beinn DonuiU. The rocks
are Secondary — for the most part sandstone, which has
been largely quarried ; and coal occurs at Clashmore.
The soil is clayey inland and sandy near the sea, with
an irregular belt of black loam intervening. In Little-
town, within the burgh, is the spot where in 1722
an old woman was burned for transforming her daughter
into a pony and getting her shod by the devil —
the last judicial execution this for witchcraft in Scot-
land. Modern Skibo Castle, successor to that in
which the great Marquis of Montrose was temporarily
confined after his capture in Asstnt, is the principal
mansion ; and 2 proprietors hold each an annual value
of more, 3 of less, than £500. Dornoch is the seat of a
presbytery in the synod of Sutherland and Caithness ;
the living is worth £435. Balvraid, Embo, Rearquhar,
and Skibo schools, all of them public but the last,
with respective accommodation for 80, 62, 100, and 76
children, had (1880) an average attendance'of 32, 33,
55, and 18, and gi-ants of £31, 16s. 6d., £20, 3s. 6d.,
£45, 5s., and £30, Is. Valuation (1882) £7619, 17s. 6d.,
of which £5242 belonged to the Duke of Sutherland, and
£1501, 13s. 6d. to E. C. Sutherland- Walker, Esq. of Skibo.
Pop. (1801) 2362, (1831) 3380, (1861) 2885, (1871) 2764,
(1881) 2522.— Ord Sur., shs. 103, 94, 102, 1878-81.
The presbytery of Dornoch comprehends the old
parishes of Assynt, Clyne, Creich, Dornoch, Golspie,
Kildonan, Lairg, Loth, and Rogart, and the quoad sacra
parish of Stoer. Pop. (1871) 16,649, (1881) 15,998, of
whom 314 were communicants of the Church of Scotland
in 1878. — The Free Church also has a presbytery of Dor-
noch, ^^-ith churches at Assynt, Clyne, Creich, Dornoch,
Golspie, Helmsdale, Lairg, Rogart, Rosehall, and Stoer,
and preaching-stations at Kildonan and Shinness, of
which the nine first had together 4059 members and
adherents in 1881.
Dornoch, Firth of, the estuary of the river Oikel.
Commencing at Bonar- Bridge, at the SE end of the Kyle
of Sutherland, it extends 9^ miles east-south-eastward to
Meikle Ferry, and thence 13 miles east-north-eastward till
it merges with the North Sea at a line between Tar bat
Ness and Brora. It has a varying width of 7i furlongs
above "Wester Fearn Point, 2\ furlongs at the Point
itself, IJ mile below Easter Fearn, 3^ furlongs at Ard-
more Point, 2J miles at Edderton, 5J furlongs at Meikle
Ferry, 3j miles at Tain, If mile at the SE corner of
Dornoch parish, and 10^ miles from lirora to Tarbat
DOUGALSTON
Ness. A shoal across it 3 miles below Tain, called Geyzen
Briggs from occasioning a tumultuous roar of breakers,
forms a great obstruction to navigation, yet is not so
continuous as to hinder vessels, under direction of a
pilot, from safely passing. The N side of the firth,
between that bar and Meikle Ferry, offers some har-
bourage for small vessels in calm weather ; and Cambus-
currie Bay, immediately above Meikle Ferry, forms an
excellent roadstead, where vessels of considerable burden
can lie at anchor, and where good harbour accommoda-
tion could easily be provided. The Great North Road,
with nexus at Meikle Ferry, was formerly the main line
of communication between the southern and the northern
shores, but always was subject to delay at the ferry,
so that the road round by Bonar-Bridge, though very
circuitous, came to be generally preferred ; and now tho
railway, consisting of the Highland line on the S side
and the Sutherland line on the N side, takes the same
roundabout route. The waters of the firth abound in
shellfish, cod, and haddocks, but never have been vigor-
ously fished. —OrrZ. Sur., shs. 102, 93, 94, 1881-78.
Domock, a village and a coast parish of Annandale,
Dumfriesshire. Standing § mile inland, the village has
a station on the Glasgow and South- Western railway 14
miles NW of Carlisle and 3 E of Annan, under which it
has a post office.
The parish, containing also Lowtherton village, 1 mile
E by N of Dornock village, is bounded N and NE by
Kirkpatrick-Fleming, E by Gretna, S by the Solway
Firth, and W and NW by Annan. Its greatest length,
from N to S, is 4^ mUes ; it greatest breadth is 2^ mUes ;
and its area is 5779| acres, of which 1149^ are foreshore,
nearly 4 are water, and 523 belong to the Robgill de-
tached portion, lying 4 mile to the N and surrounded
by Kirkpatrick-Fleming and Annan. The Solway here
is 1^ mile wide ; but its channel, barely J mile across,
may be forded at low tide, by those at least who know
the perils of their path. The shore-line, 2\ miles long,
is low and sandy ; and from it the surface very gradually
rises to 59 feet at Muirhouse, 135 near Stapleton, 200
beyond Hallton, and 265 at Broadlea in the Robgill
portion, whose NE border is traced for 7 furlongs by
KiRTLE Water, the only stream of any consequence.
The land is all low ; and, excepting some 40 acres of
wood and 750 either pastoral or waste, is all under the
plough. Neither coal nor limestone has been found,
but sandstone is plentiful. The soU, in general, is loam
on a clayey bottom. The antiquities comprise remains
of an ancient Caledonian stone circle, traces of a Roman
military road, the towers of RobgUl and Stapleton, and
several curious old tombstones in the parish grave3'ard,
where are also three sculptured stones. Swordwellrig,
7 furlongs WNAV of the village, is said to have been the
scene in the 15th century of a victory over the English,
in which Sir William Broun of Coalstoun defeated and
slew Sir Marmaduke Langdale and Lord Crosby. Rob-
gill, Stapleton, and Blackyett are the chief mansions ;
and 5 proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 5 of between £100 and £500, 3 of from £50 to
£100, and 3 of from £20 to £50. Dornock is in the
presbytery of Annan and s3mod of Dumfries ; the living
is worth £330. The church, built in 1793, contains
300 sittings. A public school and an infant and female
school, with respective accommodation for 86 and 77
children, had (1880) an average attendance of 68 and 43,
and grants of £55, 4s. and £34, 13s. Valuation (1882)
£7177, 16s. 4d. Pop. (1801) 788, (1831) 752, (1861)
856, (1871) 826, (1881) 814.— OrcZ. Sur., shs. 6, 10,
1863-64.
Dorrington. See Dirrixgtox.
Dorrory. See Dorart.
Dorusmore. See Ckaignish.
Dosk, an ancient parish on the W border of Kincardine-
shire, now forming the south-eastern portion of Edzell.
Double-Dikes. See Stoneuouse.
Douchfour. See Dochfour.
Dougalston, an estate, with a mansion, on the SE
border of New Kilpatrick parish, Dumbartonshire, \\
mile ESE of Milngavie. Its owner, Robert Ker, Esq.,
DOUGLAS
holds ISOO acres, valued at £3575 per annum. Doutjal-
ston Loch (4^x1 furl.), on the Stirlin";shire border,
contains an islet, and abounds in water plants, some of
them of rare species.
Douglas, a burn in Yarrow parish, Selkirkshire, rising,
at an altitude of 2000 feet above sea-level, on Black-
house Heights, contiguous to the Peeblesshire border,
and running 6 miles east-south-eastward and south-
south-eastward, till, 2 miles below Blackhouse Tower,
it falls into Yarrow Water, at a point 1^ mile E by N
of the foot of St Mary's Loch. "With a fall of 1200 feet,
it traverses a deep and gloomy glen (hence its name
dubh-qhias, ' dark grey '), "and teems with capital trout
of about h lb. weight.— Orrf. Sur., shs. 24, 1(5, 1864.
Douglas, a town and a parish in the Upper "Ward of
Lanarkshire. The town stands on the right bank of
Douglas "Water, 3i miles SS"W of Douglas station on a
branch of the Caledonian, this being 7^ miles SS"W of
Lanark, 11 SW of Carstairs Junction, 39^ S"W of Edin-
burgh, and 13:J- ENE of :Muirkirk. Formerly a place of
much political importance, a burgh of barony with high
magisterial powers, and a seat of considerable trade and
marketing, it has fallen into great decadence, and now
presents an antique and irregular appearance. Its streets
are narrow, some of the houses look as if they still be-
longed to the Middle Ages ; and the townsfolk, with few
exception s, are weavers, mechanics, or labourers. A cotton
factory, established in 1792, continued in operation only
a few years ; and a connection with Glasgow in handloom-
weaving is now, too, all but extinct. The town, never-
theless, is still a place of some provincial consideration,
possesses a fair amount of local business, and is replete
with antiquarian interest. It has a post office under
Lanark, mth money order, savings' bank, and railway
telegraph departments, branches of the Commercial and
Royal Banks, 7 insurance agencies, the Douglas Arms
inn, gas-works, the parish church, a Free church, a U.P.
church, a public school, and fairs on the third Friday of
March and October. The kirk of St Bride, founded in
the 13th century, but Second Pointed in style, was a
prebend of Glasgow cathedral, and seems to have been
a large and stately edifice, now represented by only a
small spire and the choir, which latter was always till
1761 the burial-place of the Douglas family. In 1879-81
it underwent an extensive restoration, the vault beneath
the High Altar being entirely renewed and much en-
larged. The old coffins have been removed, and in the
new vault are now interred the late Earl and Countess of
Home. In the centre of the floor of the choir above is a
beautiful marble and alabaster monument of the Coun-
tess, which presents a striking contrast to the faded and
mutilated effigies around it ; and the E window is filled
with stained glass in memory of the Earl. ' Here,' says
Sir "Walter Scott, 'a silver case, containing the dust of
what was once the brave heart of Good Sir James, is still
pointed out; and in the dilapidated choir above appears,
though in a sorely ruinous state, the once magnificent
tomb of the warrior himself This monument is sup-
posed to have been wantonly mutilated and defaced by
a detachment of Cromwell's troops, who, as was their
custom, converted the kirk of St Bride of Douglas into
a stable for their horses. Enough, however, remains to
identify the resting-place of the great Sir James. Tlie
effigy, of dark stone, is cross-legged, and in its original
state must have been not inferior in any respect to
the best of the same period in Westminster Abbey.'*
The Covenanters, in the times of the persecution, had
* Thus Sir Walter, but the minister of Douglas, the Rev. W.
Smith, writes : 'As to tlic silver heart-case, I am not sure. There
are two enclosed in a nindern box ; but they are neglected, as it is
not kno\VTi whose hearts they are; and as to beinj,' silver, most
people would say they were lead. Last century the school stood
in the churchyard. There was no door on the ciioir, and the boys
had full liberty to do as they liked, which liberty they undoubtedly
took. So that the mutilation of statues attributed to Cromwell
was performed by inferior destructionists. The lead cases in the
BhajH; of hearts are much broken, havinj,' had the same treatment
as the monuments. I may mention that, though the body of the
Good Sir James was brought to Douglas according to tradition or
history, no bones were found when recently the 8i)ace under the
stone effl)^ was opened.'
364
DOUGLAS CASTLE
close connection with the town, being better sheltered
in its neighbourhood than in most other districts, and
in April 1689 the Caraeronian regiment was here em-
bodied in defence of the Protestant government of
William and Mary, under the command of the eldest
son of the second Marquis of Douglas. Pop. (1841)
1313, (1861) 1426, (1871) 1371, (1881) 1262.
The parish, containing also the villages of Uddington
and Rigside, 2J and 4 miles NE of the town, as likewise
Inches station, 6f miles SW of Douglas station, is
bounded NW by Lesmahagow, NE by Carmichael, E by
Wiston-Roberton, SE and S by Crawfordjohn, and W
by Muirkirk in Ayrshire. Its xitmost length is 11|
miles from NE to SW, viz., from the confluence of
Poniel and Douglas AVaters to Cairntable ; its utmost
breadth, from NW to SE, is 6J miles ; and its area is
34,317^ acres, of which 180| are water. Douglas
AVater, rising 1500 feet above sea-level, in the south-
western corner of the parish, winds 16^ miles north-
eastward through all the interior, on the way receiving
]\Ionks and Kennox Waters, Glespin and Parkhall Burns,
and Poniel Water, which last, running 9J miles east-
north-eastward, traces nearly all the boundary with
Lesmahagow ; whilst Duneaton Water flows 6j miles
east-by-southward, along all the southern border, on its
way to the Clyde. The surface, declines to less than
600 feet above sea-level at the north-eastern corner,
where Douglas Water passes from the parish ; and
elevations to the left or N of its course, from NE to
SAV, are Poniel Hill (842 feet), Arknev Hill (1225),
AVindrow Hill (1297), Hagshaw Hifl (1540), Shiel Hill
(1122), *Hareshaw Hill (1527), *Brack Hill(,1306), and
•Little Cairntable (1693), asterisks marking those sum-
mits that culminate on the Ayrshire boi'der. To the
right or S of the Douglas rise Robert Law (1329), Scaur
Hill (1249), Parkhead Hill (1241), Pagie Hill (1273),
AucHENSAUGii Hill (1286), PinkstoneRig (1255), Hart-
wood Hill (1311), Douglas Rig (1535), and Cairntable
(1944). The rocks of the valley belong to the Carboni-
ferous formation, and comprise very fine coal (including
valuable gas coal), some ironstone, limestone, and beau-
tiful white sandstone. The coal is extensively mined, both
for home use and for exportation, and the limestone and
sandstone are quarried. There are several pretty strong
chalybeate springs. The soil in most parts of the strath
is a free black mould, in some is lighter and gravell}',
and in others is clay ; on the moors it is mostlj' humus or
moss, but even here in places a deep loam. Fully three-
sevenths of the rental are from arable land, nearly
one-half is from pasture, and the rest is from minerals.
Cairns are on Auchensaugh and Kiikton hills ; and a
large one, found to contain a sarcophagus, stood formerly
on Poniel farm. Ancient churches or chajicls were at
Andershaw, Glenlaggart, Parishholm, and Chapel Hill.
The chief residences are Douglas Ca.stlk, Carmacoup,
Springhill, and Crossl)urn ; and 2 proprietors, besides
the Earl of Home, hold each an annual value of £500
and upwards, 2 of between £100 and £500, 7 of from
£50 to £100, and 17 of from £20 to £50. Douglas is in
the presbytery of Lanark and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ;
the living is worth £471. Three new public schools —
Douglas, Rigside, and Stablestone — with respective ac-
commodation for 250, 130, and 130 children, had (1881)
an average attendance of 161, 96, and 82, and grants
of £144, lis. , £89, Is. , and £87, 10s. Valuation (1860)
£12,836, (1882) £21,545, 8s. Pop. (1801) 1730, (1831)
2542, (1861) 2490, (1871) 2624, (1881) 26n.—Ord. Sur.,
shs. 23, 15, 1865-64.
Douglas Castle, an ancient ruin and a modern seat
in Douglas parish, Lanarkshire, near the right bank of
Douglas AVater, | mile NNE of Douglas town. The
Douglases, ' whose coronet so often counterpoised the
crown,' and who so closely linked the district of Dou-
glasdale to Scottish story, 'were,' says Hill liurton,
' children of the soil, who could not be traced back
to the race of the enemy or stranger, as, whatever
may have been their actual origin, they were known
as rooted in Scotland at the time when the Norman
adventurers crowded in.' The first great man of the
DOUGLAS CASTLE
house was the Good Sir James, the friend and com-
panion of Robert the Bruce in his valorous efforts to
achieve the independence of Scotland. His o\vn castle
of Douglas had been taken and garrisoned by the troops
of Edward I. ; and he resolved to recapture it, and at the
same time inflict signal chastisement on the intruders.
Tradition tells us that a beautiful English maiden, the
Lady Augiista de Berkely, had replied to her numerous
suitors that her hand should be given to him who should
have the courage and ability to hold the perilous castle
of Douglas for a year and a day ; and Sir John de Walton,
auxiousto win by his valour so lovely aprize, with Edward's
consent, undertook the defence of the castle. For
several months he discharged his duty with honour and
bravery, and the lady now deeming his probation accom-
plished, and not un-^-illing perhaps to unite her fortunes
to one who had proved himself a true and valiant knight,
wrote him a letter of recall. By this time, however, he
had received a defiance from Douglas, who declared
that, for all Sir John's valour, bravery, and vigilance,
the castle should be his own by the Palm Sunday of
1307 ; and De Walton deemed it a point of honour to
keep possession till the threatened day should be past.
On the day named Douglas, assembling his followers,
assailed the English as they returned from the church,
and, having overpowered them, took the castle. Sir
John de AValton was slain in the conflict, and the letter
of his lady-love, being found on his person, afflicted the
generous and good Sir James 'full sorely.' The account
of this captui'e of the Castle of Douglas, taken from
Barbour's Bncs by Hume of Godscroft, is somewhat
different. ' The manner of his taking it is said to have
beene thus — Sir James, taking with him only two of his
servants, went to Thomas Dickson, of whom he was re-
ceived with tears, after he had I'evealed himself to him, for
the good old man knew him not at first, being in mean and
homely apparel. There he kept him secretly, in a quiet
chamber, and brought unto him such as had been trusty
servants to his father, not all at once, but apart, by one
and one, for fear of discoverie. Their advice was, that
on Palm Sunday, when the English would come forth
to the church, and his partners were conveened, that
then he should give the word, and cry "the Douglas
slogan," and presently set upon them that should happen
to be there, who being despatched the castle might be
taken easilj-. This being concluded, and they come, as
soon as the English were entred into the church with
palms in their hands (according to the custom of that
day), little suspecting or fearing any such thing, Sir
James, according to their appointment, cryed too soon,
"A Douglas, a Douglas!" which being heard in the
church (this was St Bride's church of Douglas), Thomas
Dickson, supposing he had beene hard at hand, drew
out his sword and ran upon them, having none to second
him but another man, so that, oppressed by the number
of his enemies, he was beaten downe and slaine. In the
meantime, Sir James being come, the English that were
in the chancel kept off the Scots, and having the advan-
tage of the strait and narrow entrie, defended themselyes
manfully. But Sir James, encouraging his men, not so
much by words as by deeds and good example, and
having slain the boldest resisters, prevailed at last, and
entring the place, slew some twenty-six of their number,
and tooke the rest, about ten or twelve persons, intend-
ing by them to get the castle upon composition, or to
enter with them when the gates should be opened to
let them in. But it needed not, for they of the castle
were so secure that there was none left to keep it, save
the porter and the cookc, who knowing nothing of what
had hapned at the church, which stood a large quarter
of a mile from thence, had left the gate wide open, the
porter standing without, and the cooke dressing the
dinner Avithin. They entred without resistance, and
meat being ready, and the cloth laid, they shut the gates
and took their refection at good leisure. Now that he
had gotten the castle into his hands, considering with
himself (as he was a man no lesse advised than valiant)
that it was hard for him to keep it, the English being
as yet the stronger in that countrey, who if they should
DOUGLAS CASTLE
besiege him, he knewe of no rcliefe, he thought it better
to carry away such things as be most easily transported,
gold, silver, and apparell, with ammunition and armour,
whereof he had greatest use and need, and to destroy
the rest of the provision, together with the castle itseife,
than to diminish the number of his followers there
where it could do no good. And so he caused carry the
meale and meat, and other comes and grain into the
cellar, and laid all together in one heape : then he took
the prisoners and slew them, to revenge the death of his
trustie and valiant servant, Thomas Dickson, mingling
the victuals with their bloud, and burying their carkasses
in the heap of come : after that he struck out the heads
of the barells, and puncheons, and let the drink runn
through all ; and then he cast the carkasses of dead
horses and other carrion amongst it, throwing the salt
above all, so to make all together unuseful to the enemie ;
and this cellar is called j-et the Douglas lairder. Last
of all he set the house on fire, and burnt all the timber,
and what else the fire could overcome, leaving nothing
but the scorched walls behind him.'
In 1313, Sir James took the castle of Roxburgh, and
in the following year commanded the centre of the
Scottish van at Baxnockburx. In 1317 he defeated
the English under the Earl of Arundel ; and in 1319,
in conjunction with Randolph, Earl of Moray, he
entered England by the west marches with 1500
men, routed the English under the Archbishop of York
at the so-called Chapter of Mitton, and, eluding Edward
II., returned with honour to Scotland. When Robert
the Bruce was on his deathbed, in 1329, he sent for his
true friend and companion in arms the Good Sir James,
and requested him, that so soon as his sjiirit had
departed to Him who gave it, he should take his heart
and ' bear it in battle against the Saracens. ' Douglas
resolved to carry the request of the dying king into
execution, and for this purpose obtained a passport
from Edward III., dated 1 Sept. 1329. He set sailin
the following year w^th the heart of his honoured
master, accompanied by a splendid retinue. Having
anchored off Sluys, he was informed that Alphonso XL,
the King of Leon and Castile, was engaged in hostilities
in Grenada with the Moorish commander Osmj'n ; and
this determined him to pass into Spain, and assist the
Christians to combat the Saracens. Douglas and his
friends were warmly received by Alphonso, and encoun-
tering the iloslems at Theba, on the frontiers of Anda-
lusia, on Aug. 25, 1330, put them to rout. Douglas
eagerly followed in the pursuit, and, taking the casket
which contained the heart of Ijruce, he flung it before
him, exclaiming, ' Onward, as thou wert wont, thou
noble heart, Douglas will follow thee ! ' The Saracens
rallied, and the Good Sir James was slain. His com-
panions found his body upon the field along with the
casket, and sorrowfully bore them back to Scotland,
where the heart of the Bruce was deposited at Melrose,
though his body was interred in the royal tomb at Dun-
fermline, whilst Sir James was buried at Douglas, and
a monument erected to him by his brother Archibald.
The old poet Barbour, after reciting the circumstances
of Sir James's fall in Spain, tells how —
' Quhen his men langf had mad murnyn,
Thai debowlyt him, and syne
Gert scher him swa, that myclit be tane
The flescli all haly fra the bane,
And the carioune thar in haly place
Erdyt, « ith rycht gret worschi)), was.
The bariys liave thai with them tane
And syne ar to thair sc!iii>i)is yane
Syne towart Scotland held thair way,
And thar ar cummyn in full g-ret hy
And the bauys honorahilly
In till the kirk off Doujrlas war
Erdyt, with dull and mekill car.
Schyr Archebald has sune jrert syn
Off alaJbastre, baith fair and fyue,
Or save a tumbe sa richJy
As it bchowyt to swa worth j.'
Sir James's nephew was raised to the earldom of Douglas
in 1357 by David II.; and during this reign and the
two which succeeded the house of Douglas attained a
degree of power scarcely inferior to that of royalty itself;
365
DOUGLAS CASTLE
so that, as has been remarked by an old liistorian, it
became a saying that ' nae man was safe in the country,
unless he were either a Douglas or a Douglas man.' The
Earl went abroad with a train of 2000 men, kept a sort
of court, and even created knights. In 1424, Archibald,
the fourth Earl, became possessed of the dukedom of
Touraine, for services rendered to Charles YII. of France.
"William, the sixth Earl, a stripling not yet 15, succeeded
to the family power at a stage when it had attained a
most formidable height. Their estates in Galloway —
where they possessed the stronghold of Threave — and
those of Annaudale and Douglas, comprised two-thirds
of Scotland to the S of Edinburgh ; the people viewed
them as the champions of Scotland, especially after the
victor}' of Otterbum, and since single-handed they had
won back the border lauds ceded to England by Edward
Baliol ; lastly, through the marriage of the Good Sir
James's brother and heir with Domagilla, the Red
Comyn's sister and Baliol's niece, the Douglases could
found a most plausible claim to the Scottish tlirone, and,
but for Baliol's unpopularity, might have contested the
accession of Robert II. It was at this time, however,
the policy of Crichton — one of the ablest of those who
had the direction of affairs during the minority of James
II. — to humble the overgrown power of the nobles ; and
accordingly Earl William, having been decoyed into the
castle of Edinburgh, was subjected to a mock trial for
treason, and beheaded 24 Nov. 1440. ' This noble
youth and his brother and a few other principal friends, '
says Hume of Godscroft, 'on their arrival in Edinburgh,
went directly to the castle, being led as it were and
drawn by a fatal destiny, and so came in the power of
their deadly enemies and feigned friends. At the very
instant comes the Governor, as was before appointed
betwixt them, to play his part of the tragedy, and both
he and the chancellor might be alike embarked in the
action, and bear the envy of so ugly a fact, that the
weight thereof might not be on one alone. Yet to play
out their treacherous parts, they welcome him most
courteously, set him to dinner with the king at the
same table, feast him royally, entertain him cheerfully,
and that for a long time. At last, about the end of
dinner, they compass him about with armed men, and
cause present a bull's head before him on the board.
The bull's head was in those days a token of death, say
our histories ; but how it hath come in use to be taken
and signify, neither do they nor any else tell us ; neither
is it to be found, that I remember, anywhere in history,
save in this one place ; neither can we conjecture what
affinity it can have therewith, unless to exprobrate gross-
ness, according to the French and our own reproaching
dull and gross wits, by calling him calfs-head {tete
de veau) but not bull's head. The young nobleman,
either understanding the sign as an ordinary thing, or
astonished with it as an uncouth thing, upon the sight
of the bull's head, offering to rise, was laid hold of by
their armed men, in the king's presence, at the king's
table, which should have been a sanctuary to him. And
so without regard of king, or any duty, and mthont any
further process, without order, assize, or jury, ^vithout
law, no crime objected, he not being convicted at all, a
young man of that age, that was not liable to the law in
reganl of his youth, a nobleman of that place, a worthy
young gentleman of such expectation, a guest of that
acceptation, one who had reposed upon their credit, who
had committed himself to them, a friend in mind, who
looked for friendship, to whom all friendship was pro-
mised, against duty, law, friendship, faith, honesty,
humanity, hospitality, against nature, against human
society, against God's law, against man's law, and the
law of nature, is cruelly executed and put to death.
David Douglas, his younger brother, was also put to
death with him, and Malcolm Fleming of Cumbernauld ;
they were all three beheaded in the back court of the
castle that lieth to the west.'
' When E^rl Douplas to the Castle came
The courts they were fu" Krim to see ;
And he liked na the feast aa they sat at dine,
The tables were gerved sac oilenUie.
866
DOUGLAS CASTLE
' And full twenty feet fro the table he sprang
When the grislj' bull's head rnet his e'e.
But the Crichtouns a" cam' troupin in,
An' he coudna fight an' wadna flie.
' O, when the news to Hermitage came,
The Douglasses were brim and wud ;
They swore to set Embro' in a bleeze,
An' slochen't wi' auld Crichtouu's blood.'
The dukedom of Touraine reverted to the French king ;
but, after three years of depressed fortune, the Douglases
rose to a greater degree of power than ever in the
person of "William, the eighth Earl, who, professing to
be in favour with the young king, James II. , appointed
himself Lieutenant-General of the kingdom. Having
fallen, however, into partial disgrace, he went abroad
(1450), and his castle of Douglas was demolished during
his a'bsence by order of the king, on account of his
vassals' insolence. On the return of the Earl, he made
submission to the king, a submission never meant to be
sincere. He sought to assassinate Crichton the chancel-
lor, hanged Herries of Terregles in despite of the king's
mandate to the contrary, and in obedience to a royal
warrant delivered up the Tutor of Bombie — headless.
By leaguing, moreover, with the Earls of Crawford and
Ross, he united against his sovereign almost one-half of
the kingdom. But his credulity led him into the selfsame
snare that had proved fatal to the former Earl. Relying
on the promise of the king, who had now attained to the
years of manhood, and having obtained a safe-conduct
under the great seal, he ventured to meet him in Stirling
Castle, 13 Jan. 1452. James urged him to dissolve the
Bands, the Earl refused. 'If you will not,' said the en-
raged monarch, drawing his dagger, ' then this shall ! '
and stabbed him to the heart. 1 he Earl's four brothers
and vassals ran to arms with the utmost furj' ; and,
dragging the safe-conduct, which the king had gi'anted
and \'iolated, at a horse's tail, they marched to Stirling,
burned the town, and threatened to besiege the castle.
An accommodation ensued, on what terms is not known ;
but the king's jealousy, and the new Earl's power and
resentment, prevented its long continuance. Both
took the field, and met near Abercorn (1454), at
the head of their armies. That of the Earl, composed
chiefly of Borderers, was far superior to the king's,
in both numbers and valour ; and a single battle must
in all probability have decided whether the house of
Stewart or the house of Douglas was henceforth to sit
upon the throne of Scotland. But while his troops im-
patiently expected the signal to engage, the Earl ordered
them to retire to their camp ; and Sir James Hamilton
of Cadzow, in whom he placed the greatest confidence,
convinced of his lack of genius to improve an oppor-
tunity, or of his want of courage to seize a crown,
deserted him that very night. This example was fol-
lowed b}' manj' ; and the Earl, despised or forsaken by
all, was soon driven out of the kingdom, and obliged to
depend for his subsistence on the King of England.
The overgrown strength of this family was destroyed in
1455 ; and the Earl, after enduring many vicissitudes,
retired in his old age to Lindores Abbey in Fife, and
died there in 1488.
Tlie title of Earl of Douglas, of this the first branch
of the family, existed for 98 years, giving an average of
11 years to each possessor. The lands of the family
reverted to the Crown, but shortly afterwards were
bestowed on the Earl of Angus, the head of a younger
branch of the old family, descended from George Dou-
glas, the only son of William, first Earl of Douglas, by
his third Avife, Margaret, Countess of Angus, who in
1389, on his mother's resignation of her right, received
her title. This family assisted in the destruction of the
parent-house ; and it became a saying, in allusion to
the complexion of the two races, that the red Douglas
had put down the black. Among its members were
several who figured prominently in Scottish story,
such as Archibald, fifth Earl, known by the soulriquct
of 'Bell-the-Cat ;' and Archibald, sixtli Earl, who, marry-
ing Margaret of England, widow of James IV., was
grandfather of the unfortunate Henry Lord Darnley,
the husband of Queen JIary and father of James VI.
DOUGLAS CASTLE
DOULAS
This Archibald, during the minority of his step-son
James V. , had all the authority of a regent. William,
eleventh Earl of Angus, was raised to the marquisate of
Douglas, in 1633, by Charles L This nobleman was a
Catholic and a royalist, and inclined to hold out his
castle against the Covenanters, in favour of the king ;
but he was surprised by them, and the castle taken
(1639). He was one of the best of the family, and kept
up to its fullest extent the olden princely Scottish hospi-
tality. The king constituted him his lieutenant on the
Borders, and he joined Montrose after his victory at
Kilsyth (1645), escaped from the rout at the battle of
Philiphaugh, and soon after made terms with the ruling
powers. The first Jlarquis of Douglas was the father
of three peers of different titles — Archibald, his eldest
son, who succeeded him as second Marquis ; William,
his eldest son by a second marriage, who became third
Duke of Hamilton ; and George, his second son, by the
same marriage, who was created Earl of Dumbarton.
Archibald, tliird Marquis, succeeded in 1700, and was
created Duke of Douglas in 1703. In the '15 he adhered
to the ruling family of Hanover, and fought as a volun-
teer in the battle of Sheriffmuir. He died childless at
Queensberry House, Edinburgh, in 1761, when the ducal
title became extinct, the Marquisate of Douglas devolv-
ing on the Duke of Hamilton, on account of his descent
from the first Marquis. The real and personal estate
of the Duke of Douglas was inherited by his nephew,
Archibald Stewart, Esq. , who assumed the surname of
Douglas, and in 1790 was created Baron Douglas of
Douglas — a title re-granted in 1875 to the eleventh Earl
of Home (1799-18S1), who had married the grand-
daughter of the above-named Archibald Stewart, and
now borne by his son and successor, Chs. Alex. Douglas
Home (b. 1834), the present Earl, who holds in Lanark-
shire 61,943 acres, valued at £24,764 per annum, besides
a large and increasing revenue from minerals. (See also
BoTHWELL and The Hirsel.)
Such are some of the memories of this time-worn
ruin, interesting also as the 'Castle Dangerous' of Sir
Walter Scott's last romance, and the last place to which
he made a pilgrimage in Scotland, His preface, trans-
mitted from Naples in 1832, contains the following
passage : — ' The author, before he had made much pro-
gress in this, probably the last of his novels, undertook
a jom-ney to Douglasdale, for the purpose of examining
the remains of the famous castle, the Kirk of St Bride of
Douglas, the patron-saint of that great family, and the
various localities alluded to by Godscroft, in his account
of the early adventures of Good Sir James. But though
he was fortunate enough to find a zealous and well-
infarmed cicerone in Mr Thomas Haddow, and had
every assistance from the kindness of Mr Alexander
Finlay, the resident chamberlain of his friend Lord
Douglas, the state of his health at the time was so feeble
that he found himself incapable of pursuing his re-
searches, as in better days he would have delighted to
do, and was obliged to be contented with such a cursory
view of scenes, in themselves most interesting, as could
be snatched in a single morning, when any bodily
exertion was painful. Mr Haddow was attentive enough
to forward subsequently some notes on the points which
the author had seemed desirous of investigating ; but
these did not reach him until, being obliged to prepare
matters for a foreign excursion in quest of health and
strength, he had been compelled to bring his work, such
as it is, to a conclusion. The remains of the old castle
of Douglas are inconsiderable. They consist, indeed, of
but one ruined tower, standing at a short distance from
the modem mansion, which itself is only one wing of
the design on which the Duke of»Douglas meant to
reconstruct the edifice, after its last accidental destruc-
tion by fire. His grace had kept in view the ancient
prophecy that, as often as Douglas Castle might be
destroyed it should rise again in enlarged dimensions
and improved splendour, and projected a pile of build-
ing, which, if it had been completed, would have much
exceeded any nobleman's residence then existing in
Scotland ; as, indeed, what has been finished, amounting
to about one-eighth of the plan, is sufficiently extensive
for the accommodation of a large establishment, and
contains some apartments the extent of which is mag-
nificent. The situation is commanding ; and though
the Duke's successors have allowed the mansion to
continue as he left it, great expense has been lavished
on the environs, which now present a vast sweep of
riclily undulated woodland when viewed from the
Cairntable mountains, repeatedly mentioned as the
favourite retreat of the great ancestor of the family in
the days of his hardships and persecution.' See David
Hume of Godscroft, History of the House and Puice of
Douglas and Angus (1644 ; new ed. by Ruddiman, 2
vols. 1743).
Douglasdale. See Douglas Water.
Douglas-Mill, a quondam inn (well known in old
coaching days) in Douglas parish, Lanarkshire, 2^ miles
NE of Douglas town. Coleridge and Wordsworth and
his sister Dorothy dined here 20 Aug. 1803.
Douglas-Park, an estate, with a mansion, in Bothwell
parish, Lanarkshire, on the right bank of South Calder
Water, If mile E of Bothwell village.
Douglastown, a village in Kinnettles parish, Forfar-
shire, on the right bank of Arity Water, at the western
verge of the parish, 3J miles SW of Forfar, under which
it has a post office. At it stand the handsome new
parish school and a large flax-spinning mill, founded,
like the village, in 1792.
Douglas Water, a burn of Arrochar and Luss parishes,
Dumbartonshire, formed by two head-streams, within f
mile of Loch Long, and running 4| mUes east-by-south-
ward, chiefly along the mutual boundary of the two
parishes, to Loch Lomond at Inveruglas, opposite
Rowardennan. Its basin is a grand glen, flanked on the
N side by Tullich Hill (2075 feet), Ben Vreac (2233),
and Stob Gobhlach (1413), and on the S by Doune Hill
(2409), Mid Hill (2149), and Ben Dubh (2106).— Or(«.
Sur., sh. 38, 1871.
Douglas Water, a burn in Inverary parish, Argyll-
shire, issuing from Loch Dubh-ghlas (4 x § furl. ; 1050
feet), and curving 6 J miles eastward to Loch Fyne, at a
point 2f miles SSW of Inverary town. It contains
salmon, sea-trout, and yellow trout. A section of rock
in its channel, 100 feet high, shows alternate strata of
mica slate and limestone. — Ord. Sur., sh. 37, 1876.
Douglas Water, a stream of SW Lanarkshire, rising,
1500 feet above sea-level, between Cairntable (1944 feet)
and Little Cairntable (1693), at the SW corner of
Douglas parish, within a furlong of the Ayrshire border.
Thence it winds 16^ miles north-eastward through
Douglas parish, and 3| miles north-north-eastward along
the mutual boundary of Carmichael and Lesmahagow
parishes, till, after a total descent of fully 900 feet, it
falls into the Clyde at a point nearly 1| mile above
Bonnington Linn, and 2f miles SSE of Lanark. It
receives, on its left bank, Monks and Poniel Waters, and,
on its right bank, Kennox AVater and Glespin, Parkhall,
Craig, Ponfeigh, Shiels, and Drumalbin Burns ; con-
tains good store of trout ; and gives the name of Douglas-
dale to its basin or valley, which, comprising nearly all
Douglas parish and considerable portions of Carmichael
and Lesmahagow, is so overhung by a conspicuous part
of a great range of watershed catching the rain clouds
from the S and AV, as to render the volume of the
Douglas nearly equal to that of the Clyde at the point
of confluence, and has such a configuration as to impart
some peculiarity to the climate. ' The district,' says
the New Statist, ' is exposed to high winds, particularly
from the SW and W, which, being confined as in a
funnel by the high grounds on each side, sweep down
the strath with tremendous violence.' — Ord. Sur., shs.
15, 23, 1864-65.
Doulas or Dulaich, a loch in Lairg parish, S Suther-
land, 2i miles NE of Lairg village. L3-ing 480 feet
above sea-level, it measures 3 by 14 furlongs, sends off a
rivulet to Loch Shin at Lairg village, and itself receives
one, running f mile eastward from Loch Craggie, like
which it abounds in very fine trout, running about ^ lb,
each.— Ord. Sur., sh. 102, 1881. 357
DOULE
Doule, a lake in Strathcarron, Ross-shire, adjacent to
the Dingwall and Skye railway, 6 miles NE of the head
of Loch Carron. It it an expansion of the river Carron,
measures about 2 miles in length, contains three islands,
and is well stocked with trout.
Douloch or Dubh Loch, a lake in Inverary parish,
Argyllshire, at the foot of Glen Shira, 2 miles NE of
Inverary town. An expansion of the Sliira rivulet,
measuring | mile by 1^ furlong, it lies only 25 feet above
the level of Loch Fyne, extends to within 5 furlongs of
the Shira's mouth, and in spring-tides receives some
small portion of Loch Fyne's sea-water. It yields trout
and salmon, sometimes in the same net with herrings
and other sea fish ; and takes the name of Douloch,
signifying ' the black lake,' from the sombreness and
depth of its waters. A baronial fortalice of the Lairds
of ilacnaughton stood on its southern shore, and is
now a ruin. — Ord. Sur., sh. 37, 1S76.
Doune or Dun of Creich. See Cueicii, Sutherland.
Doune, a modern mansion, in the Rothiemurchus por-
tion of Duthil parish, E Inverness-shire, on the left bank
of the Spey, 2J miles SSW of Aviemore station. Its
owner. Sir John Peter Grant of Rothiemurchus, K.C. B. ,
G.C.M.G. (b. 1S07 ; sue. 1S4S), was Lieut. -Governor of
Bengal 1859-62, and Governor of Jamaica 1866-73 ; he
holds 24,457 acres in the shii'c, valued at £2291 per
annum.
Doune, an oval, flat-topped mound in Strathdon
parish, W Aberdeenshire, at the W side of the Water of
Nochty, just above its influx to the Don. Mainly (it
would seem) of drift or diluvial formation, artificially
altered and fortified, it was surrounded by a moat 26
feet wide and 16 deep, and measures 970 feet in circum-
ference at the base, 60 in vertical height, and 562 in
circumference at the top, which, about half an acre in
area, shows foundations of buildings. According to
vague tradition, it was the site of Invernochty church.
Doune, a mountain in Luss parish, Dumbartonshire,
at the head of Glenmallochan, 5| miles NW by W of
Luss village. It has an altitude of 2409 feet above sea-
level.
Doune or Down Law, a hill (663 feet) in the SW of
Roxburgh parish, Roxburghshire, adjoining Peniel
Heugh in Crailing.
Doune (Gael, 'the hill'), a village in Kilmadock
parish, S Perthshire, with a station on the Dunblane
and Callander section of the Caledonian, 78 miles ESE
of Oban, 7i SE of Callander, 3| W by N of Dunblane,
8| NW of Stirling, 45 NW of Edinburgh, and 38^ NNE
of Glasgow. It stands near the left bank of the swil't
river Teith, which here receives Ardoch Burn, and here
is spanned by a noble two-arched bridge, founded in
1535 by Robert Spittal, tailor to the Jlost Noble Princess
Margaret, the Queen of James IV. , and widened 3 feet
in 1866. The village of Bridge of Teith adjoins it, and
on the opposite side of the river, 1 mile to the W, stands
that of Deax.stox ; whilst just to the S frown the hoary
ruins of Doune Castle, and behind rise the heathery
Braes of Doune, which culminate in Uamh Bheag (2179
feet), 62 miles to the NW. Itself, Doune mainly con-
sists of a larger and two smaller well-built streets,
radiating from an old central market-cross ; and has a
post office, with money order, savings' bank, and tele-
graph departments, branches of the Royal and Union
Banks, 5 insurance agencies, an hotel and 2 inns, a gas
company, a public library, a volunteer corps, curling
and bowling clubs, a masonic lodge (1789), a Free Gar-
deners' lodge (1819), and a horticultural institution
(1837). Thursday is market-day ; and fairs are held on
the second Wednesday of Jlay, the last Wednesday of
July (hiring), the Tuesday before the first Wednesday of
November (sheep), the first AVcdnesday of November
(cattle and horses), and the fourth Wednesday of No-
vember (sheep and cattle), four of these fairs having
been authorised by Act of Parliament in 1665. Once
famous for its manufacture of Highland pistols and
sporans, Doune now depends chiefly upon Deanston
cotton-mill, started in 1785. Places of worship are the
parish church (1822; 1151 sittings^ a Gothic edifice,
368
DOUNREAY
with handsome tower and beautiful pulpit ; a Free
church ; a U. P. church at Bridge of Teith, of which Dr
John M'Kerrow, historian of the Secession, was minister
from 1813 till his death in 1867 ; the Roman Catliolic
church of SS. Fillan and Alphonsus-(1875 ; 300 sittings);
and St ]\Iodoc's Episcopal church (1878 ; 120 sittings),
which. Early English in style, consists of a four-bayed
nave barrel-vaulted in oak, a three-bayed chancel groined
in stone, a N organ transept, and a N sacristy, with
beautiful stained-glass E and W windows and wooden
triptych reredos. A public and an infant school, with
respective accommodation for 131 and 94 children, had
(1880) an average attendance of 56 and 42, and grants
of £48, 14s. and £28. The superior of the village is the
Earl of Moray, whose Perthshire seat is Doune Lodge.
Pop. (1841) 1559, (1851) 1459, (1861) 1256, (1871)1262,
(1881) 997.— Or(?. Sur., sh. 39, 1869.
Doune Castle, a stately baronial stronghold, at the
SE end of Doune village, on the steep, woody, green-
sward peninsula, formed by the river Teith and Ardoch
Burn. Roofless and ruinous, though still a majestic
pile, it has been said to date from the 11th century, but
probably was either founded or enlarged by Murdoch
Stewart, second Duke of Albanj-, and Governor of Scot-
land from 1419 to 1424. At his execution (25 May
1425) on the heading-hiU of Stirling, it went to the
Crown, and, given by James IV. to Margaret, his queen,
passed in 1525 to her third husband, Henry Stewart, a
lineal descendant of the first Duke of Albany. To his
brother. Sir James, the custody of it was afterwards
granted by James V. ; and Ms son and namesake, created
Lord Doune in 1581, coming into full possession, trans-
mitted the same to his posterity, the Earls of Moray.
From time to time a residence of royalty, including of
course Queen Mary, it was garrisoned in the '45 for Prince
Charles Edward by a nejiliew of the celebrated Rob Roy,
and then was mounted with a twelve-pounder and
several swivels. Scott brings his hero 'Waverley'
within its walls ; and it was really the six days' prison
of Home, the author of Douglas, who, with five fellow-
captives from the field of Falkirk, escaped by means of
a blanket-twisted rope. This noble specimen of Scottish
baronial architecture measures 96 feet each way, and,
with w^alls 10 feet in thickness and 40 in height, com-
prises a massive north-eastern keep-tower, which, 80
feet high, commands a most lovely view ; within are
the court-yard, guardhouse, kitchen, great hall (63 by
25 feet), the I3aron's Hall, and Queen Mary's Room.
' The mass of buildings,' says Dr Hill Burton, 'forms
altogether a compact quadrangle, the towers and curtains
serving as the extensive fortifications, and embracing a
court-yard nearly surrounded by the buildings. The
bastioned square tower of the 15th century is the ruling
feature of the place ; but the edifice is of various ages,
and includes round staircase towers and remains of
the angular turrets of the beginning of the 17th cen-
tury. Winding stairs, long ranging corridors and
passages, and an abundance of mysterious vaults, strong,
deep, and gloomy, reward the investigator who has leisure
enough to pass an hour or two within its hoary walls ;
but, as we generally find in the old Scottish baronial
edifices, there are few decorative features, and immense
strength has been the great aim of each builder.' See
Billings' Baronial Antiquities (1852).
Doune Lodge, a mansion in Kilmadock parish, Perth-
shire, li mile NW of Doune village. Till some time
into the present century it bore the name of Cambus-
wallace, and as such is remembered as the house where,
on 13 Sept. 1745, Prince Charlie ' prce'd the mou' of
Jliss Robina Edmondstone. From the Edmondstones
it has come to the Earls of Moray, the tenth of whom,
about 1852, did much to improve the estate, building
new lodges and extensive oflices, crowned by a conspi-
cuous steeple ; and George Stuart, present and thirteenth
Earl (b. 1814 ; sue. 1872), holds 40,553 acres in the shire,
valued at £10,800 per annum. (See Mokav, DoNl-
BUisrr.E, Dauxaway, and CASTLE-SruAnr. )
Dounies. See Doavnies.
Dounreay. See Reav.
DOUR
DRAINIE
Dour, a burn in Abenlour parish, Aberdeenshire, run-
ning Sg miles north-by-eastward to the Moray Firth at
a point 1 mile N of New Aberdour village.
Doura, a village in Kilwinning parish, Ayrshire,
Z][ miles ESE of the town. Extensive coal-works are
in its vicinity, and are connected with the Ardrossan
branch of the Glasgow and South-Western railway by
a single-line railroad.
Dourie, a burn of ^larjdcirk parish, Kincardineshire,
formed, 5 furlongs SE of Fettercairn village, by Balna-
kettle, Crichie, and Garrol Burns, and thence running
3^ miles south-south-eastward along the Fettercairn
border and through the interior, till, 9 furlongs NNW
of Marykirk station, it falls into Luther AVater. — Ord.
Sur., shs. 66, 57, 1871-68.
Dovan. See Devon.
Dovecothall, a village on the S border of Abbey
parish, Renfrewshire, on the river Levern, conjoint
with Barrhead. It contains the oldest of the cotton
mills in the Barrhead district, and shares largely in the
bleachfield and print field business of Barrhead.
Dovecotwood. See Kilsyth.
Dovehill, one of the Barrhead villages in Renfrew-
shire.
Doveran. See Deveron.
Dovesland, a suburb in Abbey parish, Renfrewshire,
on the S side of Paisley. It forms part of Charleston
district, was mainly built after the year 1830, and has a
large population, chiefly weavers.
Dow. See Glendow.
Dowal. See Doule.
Dowally, a village in the united parish of Dunkeld
AND Dowally, central Perthshire, 5 furlongs SSE of
Guay station on the Highland railway, this being 55
miles NNW of Dnnkeld station. It stands on the left
bank of the Tay, which here is joined by Dowally Burn,
and, J mile higher up, is spanned by Dalguise viaduct.
Dowally Burn issues from Lochan Oisinneach Bheag
(l^xf furl.) in Logierait parish, and runs 7^ miles
south-south-westward, traversing Lochan Oisinneach
Mhor (4 X 2J furl. ) and Loch Ordie (5x3^ furl. ), whilst
receiving a streamlet that runs J mile north-westward
from Dowally Loch (If x f furl.). At the village are a
public school and an Established church (1818 ; 220
sittings), which retains the old jougs of the church of St
Anne, built here by Bishop George Brown of Dunkeld
in 1500, when Dowally, till then a chapelry of Caputh,
was constituted a separate parish. It now is united to
Dunkeld, but stands so far distinct, that it is a Gaelic,
while Dunkeld is an English, district. Pop. of Dowally
registration division (1861) 486, (1871) 461, (1881) 431.
—Ord. Sur., sh. 55, 1869.
Dowalton Loch, a former lake on the mutual border of
Sorbie, Kirkinner, and Glasserton parishes, SE Wig-
townshire, 6 miles SSW of Wigtown. With a length of
1| mile from WSW to ENE, a varying breadth of 1 and
5;| furlongs, and a depth of from 6 to 20 feet, it covered
212 acres, but was entirely drained in 1862-63 by its
three proprietors Sir W. Maxwell of Monreith, Vans
Agnew, and Lord Stair, its bottom now forming excel-
lent meadow-land. Of its eight little islets two near
the north-western or Kirkinner shore were then dis-
covered to bo artificial crannoges or pile-built lake-
dwellings. These yielded bones of the ox, pig, and
deer, bronze vessels (one of them of Roman workman-
ship), iron axe and hammer heads, glass and amber
beads, and part of a leather shoe, with finely-stamped
pattern, twenty-six of which relics are now in the
Edinburgh Antiquarian Museum ; and in the neighbour-
ing waters of the loch five canoes were found, from 21 to
26 feet long. On the shore of a western inlet stood
Longcastle, the ancient keep of the M'Doualls, from
whom the loch got its name ; its site is now marked by
fragments of crumbling wall. — Onf. Sur., sh. 4, 1857.
See Dr John Stuart's 'Notices of a Group of Artificial
Islands in the Loch of Dowalton ' in vol. vi. of Procs.
Soc. Ants. Scotl., and pp. 45-47 of Wm. M'llraith's
JFifffjjicmhire {-Zd cd. , Dumf. , 1877).
Dowie Dens. See Yarkow.
21
Dowloch. See Doulocji.
Down. See Doune.
Downan, a quondam ancient chapelry in Glenlivct,
Inveraven parish, Banlf'shire, near the Livet's confluence
with the Avon. A bridge over the Livet at Upper
Downan being almost entirely destroyed by the flood of
1829, a new one, on a better site lower down the stream,
was built in 1835.
Downans. See Castle-Donnan,
Downess. See Downies.
Downfield, a village, with a public school, in Mains
and Strathmartin parish, Forfarshire, 2 miles N by W
of Dundee, under which it has a post ofiice, with money
order and savings' bank departments.
Downie. See Cambustane.
Downie Park, an estate, with an elegant modern man-
sion, in Tannadicc parish, Forfarshire, on the left bank
of the South Esk, 1 mile SE of Cortachy Castle, like
which it belongs to the Earl of Airlie.
Downies, a fishing hamlet, with a small harbour, in
the extreme SE of Banchory-Devenick parish, Kincar-
dineshire, 1 mile S by E of Portlethen station.
Downreay. See Reay.
Dow- Well. See Innerleithen.
Draffan Castle. See Dunixo.
Dragon-Hole, a cave in the rocky face of Kinnoull
Hill, near the mutual boimdary of Kinnoull and Kin-
fauns parishes, Perthshire. It is diflScult of access ; has
capacity for about twelve men ; is traditionally said to
have been a hiding-place of Sir William Wallace ; and,
till after the era of the Reformation, was a scene of
superstitious observances.
Drainie, a coast parish of Elginshire, comprising the
ancient parishes of Kinneddar and Ogstoun, and contain-
ing the villages of Branderburgh and Stotfield, and
the post-town and station of Lossiemouth, 5| miles N
by E of Elgin. It is bounded N by the Moray Firth,
NE and E by Urquhart, SE by St Andrews-Lhanbryd,
S by Spynie, and SW by Duifus. Its length, from E
to W, varies between 3:^ and 4§ miles ; its utmost
breadth, from N to S, is 3g miles ; and its area is 7254J
acres, of which 273| are foreshore and 16J water.
The coast-line, 5 miles long, is partly low and flat,
partly an intricate series of cavernous rocks, noticed
under Covesea. On the Dufl"us border, J mile inland,
the surface attains 241 feet above sea-level, at Covesea
195, near Lossiemouth 124 ; but to the S it every-
where is low and flat, ranging between 43 feet at the
parish church and only 9 at Watery Mains. The river
Lossie curves 2^ miles northward, north-westward, and
north-eastward, along all the Urquhart border, and just
above its mouth receives the Spynie Canal, bending 3^
miles northward from the former bed of Loch Spynie,
which, lying upon the southern boundary, was origin-
ally aliout 3 miles long and 1 mile broad, but by drainage
operations, carried out about 1807, and again in 1860-70,
has been reduced to a sheet of water in St Andrews-
Lhanbryd parish of only 5 by 1^ furlongs. Low tracts
along the Lossie were formerly subject to inundation,
and suffered much damage from the flood of 1829, but
now are protected by embankments. A white and
yellow sandstone quarried here is in great request, both
for local building and for exportation ; and a vein of
limestone lies between Lossiemouth and Stotfield, where
surface lead ore also has thrice been the object of fruit-
less operations — during last century, in 1853, and in
1879-81. The soil is so various that scarcely 20 acres
of any one same quality can be found together, and it
often passes with sudden transition from good to bad.
Rich loam or marly clay lies on the low drained fields,
elsewhere is mostly a lighter soil, incumbent on gravel
or on pure white sand ; and about a square mile of thin
heathy earth, in the middle of the parish, having
resisted every effort to render it arable, was at last con-
verted into a small pine forest. Kinneddar Castle, a
strong occasional residence of the P.ishops of Moray,
stood by Kinneddar churchyard, whilst the first church
of Drainie (1673) exists still in a state of ruin. Gerar-
dine's Cave or Iloly-JIauhcad, near Lossiemouth, was
369
DRAKEMYEE
probably the abode of a liermit, and, measuring 12
feet square, had a Gothic doorway and -window, which
commanded a long view of the eastern coast, but in the
course of working the quarries it was totally destroyed.
GouDONSTOAVN is the only mansion ; and 2 proprietors
hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 2 of
between £100 and £500, 4 of from £50 to £100, and 30
of from £20 to £50. Drainie is in the presbytery of
Elgin and svnod of iloray ; the living is worth £327.
The parish cliurch, 2| miles SW of Lossiemouth, was
built in 1S23, and contains 700 sittings. A chapel of
ease and a Free church are at Lossiemouth ; U. P. and
Baptist churches at Brandcnburgh ; and three public
schools— Drainie, Kinneddar, and Lossiemouth— with
respective accommodation for 85, 246, and 400 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 61, 199, and 293,
and grants of £41, 6s., £133, 15s., and £253, 16s. 6d.
Valuation (1860) £7565, (1881) £12,099, 19s. Pop.
(1801) 1057, (1831) 1206, (1861) 3028, (1871) 3293, (1881)
•39SS.—Onl. Sur., sh. 95, 1876.
Drakemyre, a village in Dairy parish, Ayrshire,
i mile N of Dairy town. Pop. (1831) 126, (1861) 426,
("1871) 536, (1881) 325.
Dreel, a burn in the East Neuk of Fife, rising in the
NWof Carnbee parish, at an altitude of 580 feet above
sea-level, and running 6 miles southward, south-eastward,
and eastward, through Carnbee and along the boundary
between Abercromby and Pittenweem on the right, and
Carnbee, Anstruther-"\Vester, and Anstruther-Easter on
the left, till it falls into the Firth of Forth at Austruther
old harbour.
Dreghom, a village and a parish on the southern
border of Cunninghame district, Ayrshire. The village,
standing 3 furlongs from the right bank of the river
Irvine, is 2^ miles ESE of Irvine and 5 W of KUmarnock,
having a station on the branch of the Glasgow and
South-Western between those towns ; at it is a post
office, with money order, savings' bank, and railway
telegraph departments. It^chiefly consists of irregular
lines of whitewashed houses, interspersed with trees,
and, occupying a gentle acclivity above adjacent flats,
commands a fine view of the waters and screens of the
Firth of Clyde. Pop. (1861) 901, (1871) 821, (1881)
936.
The parish comprises the ancient parishes of Dregliorn
and Perceton, united in 1668, and contains the greater
part of Pjankhead and Perceton villages. It is bounded
NW and N by Stewarton, E by Fenwick, SE by Kil-
maurs, S by Dundonald, and W by Irvine. Its utmost
length, from NE to SW, is 6 miles ; its breadth, from
KW to SE, varies between ^ mile and 2§ miles ; and its
area is 5661§ acres, of which 36 are water. The river
luviNE glides 2§ miles westward along all the southern
border ; Carrier Burn, running 6^ miles south-westwai'd
to Carmel Water, and Cakmel Water, running 4^ fur-
longs westward to the Irvine, trace nearly all the
boundary with Kilmaurs ; whilst Annick Water,
another of the Irvine's affluents, winds lOi miles south-
westward on or near to all the boundary with Stewarton
and Irvine. Sinking at the south-western corner of tlie
parish to 30 feet above sea-level, the surface thence
rises gently north-westward to 97 feet beyond Dregliorn
village, 150 near Warwickdale, 226 near Albonhead,
and 258 near Whiterig. The rocks are mainly carboni-
ferous. Coal is largely worked, and ironstone, lime-
stone, and sandstone abound. The soil, in the SAV
ranging from loam to gravel, is elsewhere mostly a deej)
rich loam ; and all the land, excepting some acres of
wood and meadow, is under cultivation. Thougli now
much subdivided, the entire parish belonged in
the 12th century to the De Morvilles, lord high
constables of Scotland, from whom it passed in
1196 to Roland, Lord of Galloway. Mansions are
Annick Lodge, Cunningiiamiikad, Perceton, Spiiing-
8IUE, and Warwickliill ; and 9 proprietors hold
each an annual value of £500 am! ui)wards, 9 of
between £100 and £500, 3 of from £50 to £100, and 14
of from £20 to £50. In the jires))ytery of Irvine and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr, Dregliorn gives oil' about
370
DBIMNIN
450 acres, with 350 inhabitants, to the quoad sacra
parish of CiiossiiousE ; the living is worth £448. The
parish church (1780 ; reseated 1876 for 500) stands
at the village, where also are a Free Chiu'ch mis-
sion station and an Evangelical Union chapel ; and
Dregliorn Free church is at Perceton village. Three pub-
lic schools — Crossroads, Dregliorn, and Springside — with
respective accommodation for 100, 300, and 300 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 34, 248, and 234,
and grants of £32, 4s. , £237, 8s. , and £200, 15s. A'alua-
tion (1860) £18,915, (1882) £22,679, 9s., plus £3243 for
railways. Pop. (1801) 797, (1831) 888, (1841) 1222,
(1861) 3283, (1871) 3241, (1881) 3949.— Orc^. Sur., sh.
22, 1865.
Dreghom Castle, a 17th century mansion, twice en-
larged within the last 80 years, in Colintou parish,
Edinburghshire, at the northern base of the Pentlands,
I mile SE of Colinton village. Tlie estate, whence John
Slaclaurin (1734-96) assumed the title of Lord Dreghorn
on his elevation to the bench, belonged in 1671 to Sir
William ilurray, Master of Works to Charles II., and
in 1720 to the Homes, whose tutor, the poet David
Mallet, here wrote the famous ballad of William and
Margaret. Afterwards it passed to the Trotters, and
now is owned by Robert Andrew Macfie, Es(i. , who, born
in 1811, was member for Leith from 1S6S to 1874, and
who holds 968 acres in the shire, valued at £2136 per
annum. In Sept. 1881 Dreghorn Castle was honoured
by a visit from Kalakaua, King of the Hawaiian
Islands.
Drem, a village and a barony in Athelstaneford parish,
Haddingtonshire, i^ miles N by W of Haddington.
The village stands on the North British railway at the
junction of the branch to North Berwick, being 4| miles
SSW of that town, and 17i E by N of Edinburgh ; at
it is a j)ost office, with money order, savings' bank, and
telegraph departments. The barony, comprising more
than 800 acres of fine land, belonged once to the Knights
Templars, and is now the property of the Earl of Hope-
toun. A small Roman station seems to have been on
it, and ^ mile distant therefrom was a Caledonian or
Romano-British town, which appears to have been
strongly fortified, and has left distinct traces on the
cro\\Ti of a conical eminence to the extent of about 2
acres. The priest's house of the Knights Templars' esta-
blishment is still standing, as also are a holly hedge that
fenced the priest's garden and the greater part of a little
chapel, served by the priest ; but the grave3'ard attached
to the chapel lias been converted into a fruitful garden.
About 100 yards from the old chapel a very perfect
specimen was discovered in Aj^ril 1882 of an ancient
sepulchre, formed of six red .sandstone flags, and contain-
ing a skull and a clay urn.
Drhuim. See DiiituiM.
Drimachtor. See Duumociitek.
Drimadoon, a small bay on the SW side of the Isle
of Arrau, liuteshire, opening from Kilbrannan Sound,
nearly opposite Saddel Castle. It is a mere encurvature,
measuring 2 miles along the chord, and 4J furlongs
thence to its inmost recess ; receives the Black Water ;
and is flanked on the N side by Drimadoon Point, sur-
mounted by remains of an extensive doon or fort and by
a standing stone.
Drunarbane, a village in Kilmallie parish, Inverness-
shire, on the E shore of lower Loch Eil, 2^ miles SW of
Fort William.
Drimmashie. See Dhummossie.
Drimmie, an estate in the W of Longforgan parish,
SE rertlisliire. The mansion on it was the residence
of tlie Kinnaird family after the destruction of ]\Ioncur
Castle by fire in the beginning of last century ; but it
was taken down about the year 1830. The Snabs of
Drimmie (177 feet) are an abrupt termination of a beauti-
ful bank, extending north-westward from the bold rocky
point of Kingoodie ; and tliey command a fine view of
the Carse of Gowrie.
Drimmieburn. See Per-sie.
Drimnin, an estate, with a mansion, in Morvern
parish, Argyllshire, on the Sound of Mull, opposite
DRIMSYNIE
Tobermory, 12J miles NW of ]\Ioi'vern hamlet. Its
owner, Joseph Clement Gordon, Esq. (b. 1838 ; sue.
1845), holds 7422 acres in the shire, valued at £853 per
annum. St Columba's Roman Catholic church here,
with 80 sittings, was built in 1833 by the late Sir
Charles Gordon of Drimnin ; and, overlooking the Sound,
occupies the site of an old castle, of no great import-
ance, which was demolished to give place to the church.
Drimsjmie, an estate, with a mansion, in Lochgoil-
head parish, Argjdlshire. The mansion stands in the
mouth of a romantic ravine, ^ mile W of Lochgoilhead
village, and has finely wooded grounds.
DrimyeonlDeg, a bay (7x6 furl.) on the E side of
Gigha island, Argyllshire, to the N of Ardminish Point.
It is capacious enough for local trade, and has good
anchoring ground.
Drochil Castle, a ruin in Newlands parish, Peebles-
shire, on the brow of a rising-ground between the
confluent Tarth and Lyne Waters, 7 miles WNW of
Peebles. A noble pile, mantled in ivy and crusted with
yellow lichens, its basement story converted into byres,
it was, says Pennicuik, ' designed for a palace more
than a castle of defence, and is of mighty bulk ; founded,
and more than half built, but never finished, by the
then great and powerful Regent, James Douglas, Earl of
Morton. Upon the front of the S entry of this castle
was J.E.O.M., James, Earl of Morton, in raised letters,
with the fetter-lock, as "Warden of the Borders. This
mighty Earl, for the pleasure of the place, and the
salubrity of the air, designed here a noble recess and
retirement from worldly business ; but was prevented by
his unfortunate and inexorable death three years after,
anno 1581 ; being accused, condemned, and execute by
the Maiden, at the Cross of Edinburgh, as art and part
of the mui'der of our King Henry, Earl of Darnley,
father to King James the Sixth ' {Description of Tweed-
dale, 1715). See also vol. ii. of Billings' Baronial
Antiqicitics (1852).— Ord. Sur., sh. 24, 1864.
Droma, a troutful loch in Lochbroom parish, central
Ross-shire, 6 miles WNW of Aultguish inn, and 16| NW
of Garve station. Lying 905 feet above sea-level, it has
an utmost length and breadth of 1;^ and ^ mile, and
sends off the Droma rivulet 5J miles west-north-west-
ward, to form, with the Cuileig, the river Broom. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 92, 1881.
Dromore. See Drumore.
Dron, a hill in Longforgan parish, Perthshire, ad-
jacent to the boundary with Forfarshire, 2 miles NW of
Longforgan village. It rises to an altitude of 684 feet
above sea-level ; and it has, within a dell on its southern
slope, some remains of a chapel of the 12th century,
belonging to Coupar- Angus Abbey.
Dron, a parish of SE Perthshire, whose church stands
2 miles SSE of its station and post-village, Bridge of
Earn, that being 3| miles SSE of Perth. It includes a
detached district separated from the W side of the main
body by a strip of Dunbarney, 1 furlong to ^ mile across ;
and it is bounded N by Dunbarney, NE and E by Aber-
nethy, SE by the Fifeshire and S by the Perthshire
section of Arngask, SW and W by Forgandenny. Its
utmost length, from E to W, is 3J miles ; its breadth,
from N to S, varies between 1^ and 2^ miles ; and its
area is 4192g acres, of which 63 1§ belong to the detached
district, and 5 are water. The Farg winds 3| miles
along the south-eastern and eastern border ; and in the
NE, where it passes off into Abernethy, the surface
sinks to 45 feet above sea-level, thence rising to 751 on
Balmanno Hill and 950 on Dron Hill — grassy, copse-
decked summits of the Ochils these. The rocks are
mostly eruptive, but include some sandstone, and show
appearances of coal. The soil on the low grounds is
chiefly clay and loam, and on the uplands is compara-
tively light and shallow. About five-eighths of the
entire area are in tillage, nearly oiio-tenth is underwood,
and the remainder is pasture. The detached district is
called Ecclesiamagirdle, and probably got its name from
an ancient chapel of which some fragments still exist.
Here and in Dron churchyard are two Martyrs' graves ;
on Balnianno Hill is a large boulder rocking -stone.
DRUMBLADE
B.VLMAXXO Castle and Gleneaux House are the chief
residences ; and the property is divided among 7, 4
holding each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 1 of
between £100 and £500, 1 of from £50 to £100, and 1
of from £20 to £50. Dron is in the ])resbytery of Pertli
and synod of Perth and Stirling ; the living is worth
£256. The church is a good Gothic edifice, built about
1826, and containing 350 sittings ; the public school,
with accommodation for 62 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 44, and a grant of £32, 9s. Valua-
tion (1882) £4639, 6s. Pop. (1801) 428, (1831) 464,
(1861) 376, (1871) 343, (1881) 335.— Ord. Sur., sh. 48,
1868.
Dronach, a haugh in Methven parish, Perthshire, on
the left bank of the Almond, h mile AVNW of Lynedoch
Cottage, and 4 miles NW of Almondbank. Here,
overshadowed by yew-trees, and enclosed by an iron
railing, is the grave of ' Bessie Bell and Mary Gray,' who
died of the plague in 1666. Their gravestone bears
inscription : ' They lived — they loved — they died. ' See
Lynedoch.
Drongan, a station on the Ayr and Cumnock section
of the Glasgow and South-Western railway, 9i miles
ESE of Ayr. In its vicinity are Drongan House, Drongan
colliery, and a tolerably entire but ruined tower, once
the residence of a branch of the Crawford family.
Drongs, a curious insulated rock in Northmaven
parish, Shetland, at the back of Hillswick Ness. Rising
almost sheer from the water to a height of 100 feet,
it is cleft in three places nearly to the bottom, and,
seen through a fog or at a distance, resembles a ship
under sail.
Dronley, a village in the S of Auchterhouse parish, SW
Forfarshire, IJ mile WSW of Dronley station on the
Ne^-tyle branch of the Caledonian, this being 11 mOes
NNW of Dundee. See Auchterhouse.
Dronochy, a broken, ancient, sculptured cross in For-
teviot parish, SE Perthshire, on a rising-ground to the
S of Forteviot Halyhill. It is one of several crosses or
pillars that mark the precincts of the ancient Picta^^an
palace of Forteviot.
Dropping Cave, a stalactite cavern in the coast cliffs of
Slains parish, Aberdeenshire, 3 furlongs E by N of the
parish church. Its entrance is low, but its interior is
lofty and capacious, and is encrusted, less richly now
than once, with numerous beautiful stalactites.
Druidhm. See Dhruim.
Druidibeg, an isleted loch in South Uist island, Inver-
ness-shire, 1 6 miles N of Loch Boisdale hotel. It measures
3 miles in length and 1 mile in width ; abounds in
trout ; and sends off a copious streamlet, which drives
the chief mill of the island.
Druids' Bridge, a series of huge submerged blocks of
stone in Glenorchy parish, Argyllshire, extending a con-
siderable distance into Loch Awe, a little to the N of
Cladich. They are traditionally said to be part of the
foundation of an intended ancient bridge across the lake.
Druids' Hill. See Dundroich.
Druie. See Duthil.
Druim. See Dhruim.
Drum, an estate, with a mansion, in Libertou parish,
Edinburghshire, ^ mile SE of Gilmerton. Long held
by the Lords Somerville, the thirteenth of whom built
the present house towards the middle of last century, it
now is the property of John More Nisbett, Esq. of
Cairnhill, who owns 270 acres in Midlothian, valued
at £951 per annum.
Drumachargan, a conical, copse-clad hill (512 feet)
in Monzievaird and Strowan parish, Perthshire, near the
left bank of the Tay, 1 J mile WNW of CrieH".
Drumadoon. See Drimadoon.
Drumalban. See Grampians.
Drumbaig. See Assynt.
Drumbeg. See Drymen.
Drumblade, a parish of NW Aberdeenshire, whose
church stands 4^ miles E by N of Huntly, under which
there is a post office of Drumblade.
The parish, containing al.so Huntly station, is bounded
NE and E by Forgue, SE bv Lisch, SW by Gartly, W
871
DBUMBLAIB
and NW by Huntly. Its greatest length, from N to S,
is 5§ miles ; its greatest breadth, from E to W, is 5-J
miles ; and its area is 9332i acres. The Bogie winds 3§
miles northward along the Gartly and Iluntly border ;
and Glen Water, a head-stream of the Ury, 1^ mile
east-north-eastward along all the boundary w-ith Insch ;
whilst several burns cither traverse the interior or trace
the remaining boundaries. The surface, sinking in the
NE along the Burn of Forguo to 306 feet above sea-
level, thence rises to 671 feet near Garrieswell, 637 at
Boghead, 700 at Bx Hill, 716 at Woodbank, and 906
near Upper Stonyfield, the southern division of the
parish being occupied by a series of gently-rounded hills.
Clay-slate, grey granite, and trap are the prevailing
rocks ; and masses of limestone occur to the E of Lessen-
drum. The soil, in the valleys, is chiefly a deep rich
loam ; on the higher grounds, it is thin and gravelly,
but fairly fertile. Fully three-fourths of the entire area
are arable, extensive reclamations having been carried
out within the last fifty years ; woods cover about
one-sixteenth ; and the rest is either pastoral or waste.
The chief historic event is Bruce's encampment at Sliach
in 1307, when, sick though he was, he held Comyn's
forces in check ; and Robin's Height and the Meet Hil-
lock are supposed to have been occupied by his troops. A
Roman road is said to have run past Meikletown ; and
antiquities are two prehistoric tumuli, a few remaining
stones of a ' Druidical ' circle, and the Well of St Hilary,
the patron saint, which was formerly resorted to by
pilgrims. Lessendrum is the only mansion ; and 3
proprietors divide most of the parish. Drumblade is in
the presbytery of Turrift' and synod of Aberdeen ; the
living is worth £206. The parish churcli, built in 1773,
contains 550 sittings ; and 1 mile SW stands a Free
church. A public and a girls' and industrial school,
with respective accommodation for 99 and 51 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 31 and 50, whilst
the latter received a grant of £38, 15s. Valuation
(1881) £8533, 4s. 8d. Pop. (1801) 821, (1831) 978,
(1861) 926, (1871) 931, (1881) 9i3.— Orel. Sur., sh. 86,
1876.
Drumblair, an estate, with a modern mansion, in
Forgue parish, W Aberdeenshire, 10 miles ENE of
Huntly.
Drumcarrow. See Cameron.
Drum Castle, a mansion in Drumoak parish, Aber-
deenshire, 1 mile NAV of Drum station on the Deeside
railway, this being 10 miles WSW of Aberdeen. The
house itself is a large Elizabethan edifice, built in 1619,
and adjoins a three-story, massive granite keep, the
Tower of Drum, which, dating from the 12th or 13th
century, measures 60 by 40 feet, and is 63 feet high,
with walls 12 feet in thickness. This was the royal
fortalice conferred, with the Forest of Drum, in 1323, by
Robert Bruce, on his armour-bearer. Sir William de
Irvine, whose grandson. Sir Alexander, commanded and
fell at Haklaw (1411), whilst his thirteenth descendant,
also a Sir Alexander (d. 1687), has been identified with
the ' Laird o' Drum ' of a good old ballad. The present
and twenty-first laird, Alexander Forbes Irvine, Esq.
(b. 1818 ; sue. 1861), holds 7689 acres in tlic shire,
valued at £5210 per annum. The Hill of Drum, extend-
ing west-south-westward from the mansion, rises gra-
dually, on all sides, from gently undulated low ground
to an elevation of 414 feet above sea-level, and from its
SE shoulder commands an extensive view. At its
south-western base, 1^ mile W of Park station, lies the
shallow, weedy Loch of Drum (6 x 2.V furl. ; 225 feet),
which, receiving a streamlet from Banchory-Ternan,
sends off its eflluence southward to the Dee. — Orel. Sur.,
shs. 76, GG, 1874-71.
Drumcharry, a hamlet in Fortingal parish, Perth-
shire, i>n the left bank of the Lyon, 7i miles W of
Ab.n-fd.ly.
Drumclog, a wide boggy moorland tract in Avondale
parish, Lanarkshire, near the Ayrshire border, and 6
miles SW of Strathaven. Here stands a somewhat
showy monument, inscribed, 'In commemoration of tlie
victory obtained on this battlefield, on Sabbath the
"372
DRUMGELLOCH
lltli of June 1679, by our Covenanted forefathers over
Graham of Claverhouse and his dragoons.' On 29 May
1679, eighty horsemen hnd affixed to Rutherglcn market-
cross the ' Declaration and Testimony of the True Pres-
byterian Party in Scotland,' and, following up this
public defiance, an armed conventicle met on 11 June
on the boggy slope of conical Loudon Hill, where
Bruce, 370 years before, had defeated the English in-
vader. Service was scarce begun, when the watchers
brought word that Claverhouse was at hand, and, the
congregation breaking up, the armed men moved off to
the farm of Drumclog, 2^ miles to the eastward. Two
hundred or more in number, all well armed with fusils
and pitchforks, and forty of them mounted, they were
officered by Hall of Haughhead, Robert Fleming, Balfour
of Burley, and Hackston of Rathillet, who wisely took
up position behind a cleft, where lay the water of a
ditch or 'stank.' Across this cleft the skirmishers of
either side kept firing ; the question appeared to be,
which would cross first, or which hold longest out ;
when suddenly two parties of the Covenanters, one
headed by young William Cleland the poet, swept round
both ends of the stank with so much fury that the
dragoons could not sustain the shock, but broke and
fled, leaving thirty-six dead on the field, where only
three of their antagonists were killed. Such was Drum-
clog, preceded by Magus Muir, followed by Bothwell
Brig, an episode immortalised by Scott in Old Mortality,
sung too by Allan Cunningham, and thus alluded to by
Carlyle, under date April 1820: — 'Drumclog Moss is
the next object I remember, and Irving and I sitting by
ourselves under the silent bright skies among the "peat-
hags," with a world all silent around us. These peat-
hags are still pictured in me ; brown bog all pitted and
broken into heathy remnants and bare abrupt wide
holes, 4 or 5 feet deep, mostly dry at present ; a flat
wilderness of broken bog, of (juagmire not to be trusted
(probably w^etter in old days there, and wet still in rainy
seasons). Clearly a good place for Cameronian preach-
ing, and dangerously difiicult for Claverse and horse
soldiery if the suffering remnant had a few old muskets.
... I remember us sitting on the brow of a peat-hag,
the sun shining, our own voices the one sound. Far, far
away to the westward over our brown horizon, towers
up white and visible at the many miles of distance a
high irregular pyramid. "Ailsa Craig," we at once
guessed, and thought of the seas and oceans away yon-
der.'— On/. Sur., shs. 22, 23, 1865. See W. Alton's
History of the Rencounter at Dnmidog (Hamilton, 1821) ;
voh vii. , pp. 221-226, of Hill Burton's History of Scot-
land (ed. 1876) ; and vol. i., p. 178, of Carlyle's Remini-
scences (1881).
Drumcoltran, an old, strong, square tower in Kirk-
gunzeon parish, Kirkcudbrightshire.
Drumderfit, a ridge of hill (482 feet) in Kilmuir-
Wester parish, Ross-shire, 4 miles N by W of Inveruass.
The ridge, which projects from the N side of Ord Hill,
was the scene about 1400 of the destruction of an army
of the Lord of the Isles, by a stratagem and a night
attack on the part of the men of Inverness ; and is
extensively studded with cairns.
Drumderg, a jiromiuent hill (1250 feet) in Loth parish,
Sutherland, flanking the head of Glen Loth, and forming
the southern shoulder of Beinn Dobhrain (2060 feet).
The glen at its foot was the scene in the 16th century
of a bloody conflict between the inhabitants of Loth
and the men of Strathnavcr.
Driunellie or Marlee Loch, a lake in Lethendy parish,
Perthshire, 2;^ miles W by S of Pilairgowrie. An expan-
sion of the river Lunan, it lies 190 feet above sea-level,
has an utmost length and width of 1 mile and 3;| fur-
longs, and teems with perch and pike, the latter running
up to 30 lbs. Its trout, of from 2 to 5 lbs. , are very
shy.— 0/v/. Sur., sh. 56, 1870.
brumelzier. See Duummklzieu.
Drumgeith, a village, with a public school, in Dun-
dee parish, Forfarshire, 3 miles ENE of Dundee.
Drumgelloch, a village in New Monklaud parish,
Lanarkshire, 7 furlongs E of Airdric.
DRUMGLOW
Drmnglow or Dumglow. See Cleisii.
Drumgray, a village in New Monklaud parish, Lanark-
shire, 4 miles ENE of Airdrie.
Drumin, a mansion in Inveraven parish, Banffshire,
between the confluent Livet and Aven, 5 miles S of Bal-
lindalloch. Close to it are the ruins of Castle-Duumik.
Dmmimior House. See ArcniNDOiu and Keakx.
Drumkilbo, an estate, ^yith a mansion, in Meigle par-
ish, E Perthshire, 9 furlongs E by N of ileigle village.
Drumlamford, an estate, with a mansion of 1838, in
Colmonell parish, S Ayrshire, 4 miles SE of Barrhill
station. Near it is Drumlamford Loch (2 x 1^ furl.).
Drumlanrig Castle, a seat of the Duke of Buccleuch
in Durisdeer parish. Upper Nithsdale, Dumfriesshire,
17 miles NW of Dumfries, and 3h NNW of Thornhill.
It crowns the last spur of a drmti or long ridge of
hill, on the right bank of the Nith ; and, visible from
afar, stately, embowered in trees, itself has a view do^^^l
all the Nith's rich valley, away to the heights of
Criffel. It forms a hollow square, four stories high,
surmounted with corner turrets, and presenting such
an array of windows, that, say the dalesfolk, there
are as many as the year has days. From the- inner
quadrangle staircases ascend at the angles in semicircular
towers ; \vithout, the architraves of windows and doors
are profusely adorned with hearts and stars, the armorial
bearings of the Douglases. The castle fronts N, but has
also a noble fagade to the E, combining on either side
aspects of strength and beautj', the lineaments of a
mansion and a fortress ; herein, too, that it is nightly
secured, not only by a thick door of oak, but by a pon-
derous gate of iron. Falsely ascribed to Inigo Jones,
like Heriot's Hospital, which it no little resembles, the
present castle took ten years in building, and was
finished in 16S9, the year after the Revolution. "Wil-
liam, first Duke of Queensberry — celebrated in civil
history as a statesman, and in the annals of the Cove-
nanters as an abettor of persecution — planned and com-
pleted it ; and he expended upon it such enormous sums
of money, and during the only night that he passed
within its walls, was so 'exacerbated by the inaccessi-
bility of medical advice to relieve him from a temporary
fit of illness,' that he quitted it in disgust, and after-
wards wrote on the bills for its erection, ' The Deil pike
out his een wha looks herein ! ' Among seventeen por-
traits, by Lely and Kneller mostly, one of William III.
bears marks of claymore wounds — a memorial of the
Highlanders' brief sojourn in the castle on their retreat
from Derby (1745). The barony of Drumlanrig belonged
to the Douglases as early at least as 1356, and for four
centuries passed from father to son with only a single
break (1578), and then from grandsire to grandson. In
1388 James, second Earl of Douglas, conferred it on the
elder of his two natural sons. Sir William de Douglas,
first Baron of Drumlanrig, whose namesake and ninth
descendant was created Viscount of Drumlanrig in 1628
and Earl of Queensberry in 1633. William, third Earl
(1637-95) was created Duke of Queensberry and Earl of
Drumlanrig in 1684 ; and Charies, third Duke (1698-
1778), was succeeded by his first cousin, William, third
Eari of March and Ruglen (1725-1810). 'Old Q,' that
spoiler of woods and patron of the turf, the ' degenerate
Douglas' of Wordsworth's indignant sonnet, was in
turn succeeded by Henry, third Duke of Buccleuch,
great-grandson of the second Duke of Queensberry ; and
his grandson, the fifth and present Duke, is seventeenth
in descent from Sir AVilliam, the first baron, and owns
in Dumfriesshire 253,514 acres, valued at £97,530 per
annum. (See Dalkeith.) Among the episodes in
Drumlanrig's history are its pillage by the English
under Lord AVliarton (1549), an entertainment given at
it to James VI. (1 Aug. 1617), its capture by the Par-
liamentarians (1650), and Burns's frequent visits to its
chamberiain, John M'Murdo (1788-96). From 1795 till
liis death ' Old Q.' ■v\Tought hideous havoc in the woods,
here as at Neidpath ; so that the hills wliich Ikirns had
known clad ■ndth forest, AVordsworth in 1803 found
bleak and naked. The castle, too, unoccupied by its
lords for upwards of forty years, fell into disrepair, but
DKUMMELZIEB
the present Duke, on attaining his majority in 1827, at
once took in hand the work of restoration and replant-
ing, so that the castle, woods, and gardens of Drum-
lanrig are now once more the glory of Upper Nithsdale
— the woods, which retain a few survivors from the
past (finest among these, two oaks, two beeches, a
sycamore, and the limetree avenue of 1754) ; and the
gardens and policies, which were thus described by
Pennant (1772) : ' The beauties of Drumlanrig are not
confined to the highest part of the grounds ; the walks,
for a very considerable way by the sides of the Nith,
abound with most picturesque and various scenery.
Below the bridge the sides are prettily wooded, but not
remarkably lofty ; above, the views become wildly mag-
nificent. The river runs through a deep and rocky
channel, bounded by vast wooded cliffs that rise sud-
denly from its margin ; and the prospect down from the
summit is of a terrific depth, increased by the rolling of
the black waters beneath. Two views are particularly
fine — one of quick repeated but extensive meanders
amidst broken sharp-pointed rocks, which often divide
the river into several channels, interrupted by a short
and foaming rapids coloured with a moory taint ; the
other is of a long strait, narrowed by the sides, precipi-
tous and wooded, approaching each other equidistant,
horrible from the blackness and fury of the river, and
the fiery-red and black colours of the rocks, that have
all the ap)pearance of having sustained a change by the
rage of another element.' The Glasgow and South-
western railway, a little N of Carronbridge station,
traverses a stupendous tunnel on the Drumlanrig
grounds, 4200 feet in length, and nearly 200 feet be-
neath the surface, \nth an archway measuring 27 feet
by 29. —Ord. Sur. , shs. 15, 9, 1864-63. See Dr Craufurd
Tait Ramage's Drumlanrig Castle and the Douglases
(Dumf. 1876).
Drumlean, a hamlet in Aberfoyle parish, Perthshire,
near the NE shore of Loch Ard, 3 miles WNAY of Aber-
foyle hamlet.
Drumlemble. See Campbeltowx.
Drumlithie, a village in Glenbervie parish, Kincar-
dineshire, with a station on the Caledonian railway, 7^
miles SW of Stonehaven. At it are a post office imder
Fordoun, Avith railway telegi-aph, a school, Glenbervie
Free church, and St John's Episcopal church (1863), a
Gothic edifice, with organ and two stained-glass win-
dows.
Drummachloy, Glenmore, or Ettrick Bum. See Bute.
Drummellan, an estate, with a mansion, in Maybole
parish, Ayrshire, 1^ mile NE of Maybole town.
Drummellie. See Deumellie.
Drummelzier, a decayed village and a parish of SW
Peeblesshire. The village, standing ujion Powsail Burn,
^ mile above its influx to the Tweed, is 2| miles SE of
Broughton station, 8 ESE of its post-town Biggar, 3
WSW of Stobo station, and 9i WSAV of Peebles.
The parish included Tweedsmuir till 1643, and since
1742 has comprehended the southern and larger portion
of the old parish of Dawick. It is bounded N by Stobo,
E by Manor, SE by the Megget section of Lj'ne, S by
Tweedsmuir, and W by Crawford and Culter in Lanark-
shire and by Broughton. In outline rudely resembling
a boot, with heel at SE and toe at SW, it has an utmost
length of 11 J miles from its north-eastern angle near
Stobo station to its soutli-wcstern near Coomb Dod, an
utmost breadth from E to AV of 6 J mi les, and an area of
18,029^ acres, of which 81 are water. For 5f miles
the silver Tweed, entering from Tweedsmuir 3 furlongs
below Crook inn, meanders north-by-eastward across the
south-western interior and on or close to the boundary
with Broughton, next for 33 miles east-by-northward
along most of tlie Stobo border. During this course it
falls from about 740 to 590 feet above sea-level, and is
joined by five streams that rise in Drummelzier — Pol-
mood Burn (running 4 miles WNW, mostly along the
Tweedsmuir bonier), Kingledoors Burn (5| miles NE),
Stanhojie Burn (4i miles WNW), Carton Burn (2^ miles
W by N), and Powsail Burn (IJ mile NW), this last
being formed by Drummelzier IJurn (2j| miles NW) and
373
DRUMMIDOON
Scrape Bum (2^ miles WNW). The surface sinks, then,
to 590 feet at the north-eastern angle of the parish, and
rises thence southward and south-westward to * Breach
Law (16S4 feet), Scawd Law (1658), Den Knowes(1479),
Finglen Rig (1295), Dulyard Brae (1609), the * Scrape
(23-17), *Pvkestone Hill (2414), Drummelzier Law (2191),
Glenstivon Dod (2256), Craig Head (1550), *Long Grain
Knowo (2306), Taberon Law (2088), * Dollar Law
(2680), Lairdside Knowe (1635), Polmood Hill (1548),
Birkside Law (1951), Hunt Law (2096), Dun Rig (2149),
*Dun Law (2584), *Cramalt Craig (2723), and *Broad
Law (2723), on the right or E side of the Tweed ; and,
on the left, to Quilt Hill (1087), *Glcnlood Hill (1856),
Nether Oliver Dod (1673), * Coomb Hill (2096), *Glen-
whappcn Rig (2262), Hillshaw Head (2141), and * Coomb
Dod (2082), where asterisks mark those summits that
culminate on the borders of the parisli. These big
bro^vn hills fill nearly all the parish ; only to the NW
the Plain of Drummelzier, a fertile alluvial haugh, ex-
tends for about 2 miles along the Tweed, being, it is
said, the largest level space on the river above Kelso.
The rocks are mainly Lower Silurian, and include some
workable slate and a mass of compact and very white
limestone. The soil is rich loam on the haughs, and
elsewhere is generally sharp and strong. The entire
area is either pastoral or waste, with the exception of
barely 700 acres in tillage and a little over 400 under
wood, the latter chiefly on the Dawick estate. Drum-
melzier Castle, cro\vning a rocky knoll on the Tweed, 1
mile SW of the church, is a sheltered fragment of the
16th century fortalice of the head of the Tweedie sept ;
and on the top of a high pyramidal mount, 3| furlongs
E by N of the church, are vestiges of the more ancient
Tinnies or Thanes Castle, demolished by order of James
VL in 1592. 'At the side of the Powsail Burn,' to
quote from Pennicuik's Description of Tivcediale (1715),
' a little below the churchyard, the famous prophet
Merlin is said to be buried. The particular place of his
grave, at the foot of a thorn tree, was shown me, many
year ago, by the old and reverend minister of the place,
Mr Richard Brown ; and here was the old prophecy ful-
filled, delivered in Scotch rhyme to this purpose :
' " When Tweed and Po«-sail meet at Merlin's grave,
Scotland and England shall one monarch have ; "
for the same day that our King James the Sixth was
crowned King of England, the river Tweed, by an extra-
ordinary flood, so far overflowed the banks, that it met
and joined with Powsail at the said grave, which was
never before observed to fall out, nor since that time. '
Dawick House is the chief mansion ; and the property
is divided among five. Drummelzier is in the presby-
tery of Peebles and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ;
the living is worth £319. St Cuthbert's chapel, in the
upper part of the strath of Kingledoors, has disappeared ;
the present church, at the village, contains nearly 200
sittings ; and a public school, with accommodation for
44 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 31, and
a grant of £40, 15s. 6d. Valuation (1881) £4579,
13s. 3d. Pop. (1801) 278, (1831) 223, (1861) 209,
(1871) 221, (1881) 208.— Ord. Sur., sh. 24, 1864.
Drummidoon. See Diiimapoon.
Dnimmilling, an estate in West Kilbride parish, Ayr-
shire, near the village.
Drummin. See Drumin and Ca.stle-Drumin.
Drummochy, a village on the seaboard of Largo parish,
Fife, a little W of Largo station.
Dnunmond Castle, the Scottish scat of Lady Wil-
loughby dc Ercsby, in jMuthill parish, Perthshire, on a
picturesque rocky site, 3^ miles SSW of Crieff, and 3;/
WNW of Muthifl station. It was founded in 1491 by
the first Lord Drummond, on his removal from Stob-
IIALL ; and was the seat of tliat nobleman's descendants,
the Earls of Perth. The founder of the Drummond
family is said to have been one Alauricc, a Hungarian
noble, who in 1067 arrived witli Eadgar iEtheling and
St Margaret at the court of Malcolm Ceannmor, and
who from that king received the lands of Drymen or
Drummond in Stirlingshire. His sixth descendant. Sir
374
DRUMMORE
Malcolm Drummond, was rewarded by Bruce with lands
in Perthshire for services done at Bannockburn (1314),
where he advised the use of caltrops against the enemy's
horse — advice referred to in the family motto, ' Gang
warily.' Annabella Drummond (1340-1401), }iis great-
grand-daughter, was queen to Robert IIL, and so the
ancestress of Queen Victoria ; and Sir John Drummond
(1446-1519), twelfth in descent from the founder, was
lather to fair Mistress Margret, the vriie but not queen
of James IV., who, with her sisters Euphemia and
Sybilla, was poisoned at Drummond Castle in 1502.
The same Sir John was created Lord Drummond in
1487 ; and James, fourth Lord Drummond, was created
Earl of Perth in 1605. James, fourth Earl (1648-1716),
was, like his predecessors, a zealous Royalist, and fol-
lowed James II. into exile, from him receiving the title
of Duke of Perth. His grandson, James, third titular
Duke of Perth (1713-46), played a prominent part in
the '45, commanding at Prestonpans, Carlisle, Falkirk,
and Culloden. The Drummond estates, forfeited to the
Crown, were conferred by George III. in 1784 on Captain
James Drummond, who claimed to be heir-male of Lord
John Drummond, this third Duke's brother, and who
in 1797 was created Baron Perth and Drummond of Stob-
hall. At his death in 1800 they passed to his daughter,
Clementina-Sarah, who in 1807 married the Hon. Peter
Burrell, afterwards nineteenth Baron Willoughby de
Eresby ; and their daughter, Clementina Elizabeth
Heathcote-Drummond-Willoughby (b. 1809), widow of
Lord Aveland, Baroness Willoughby de Eresby, and
Joint Hereditary Chamberlain of England, in 1870
succeeded her brother in the Drummond estates, which
from 1868 to 1871 were unsuccessfully claimed by George
Drummond, Earl of Perth and Melfort, as nearest heii'-
male of the third Duke. Her Ladyship owns in Perth-
shire 76,837 acres, valued at £28,955 per annum.
Drummond Castle is twofold, old and modern. The
old edifice was visited often by James IV., and twice by
Queen Mary in July and the Christmas week of 1566.
It suff"ered great damage from the troops of Cromwell,
and fell into neglect and dilapidation after the Revolu-
tion of 1688 ; but was strengthened and garrisoned by
the royal troops in 1715, and, that this might not happen
again, was mostly levelled to the foundation by the
Jacobite Duchess of Perth in 1745. Partially rebuilt
about 1822, it was put into good habitable condition,
])reparatory to a visit of Queen Victoria and Prince
xVlbert in Sept. 1842 ; and now is partly fitted up as an
armoury, well stored with Celtic claymores, battle-axes,
and targets. The modern edifice, standing a little E of
the old, forms two sides of a quadrangle, facing N and
W ; and is of plain construction, comparatively poor in
architectural character ; but contains some interesting
portraits of the Stuarts. A temporary wooden pavilion,
within the quadrangle, served as a banqueting hall dur-
ing the visit of the Queen and Prince Albert ; and an
apartment in wliich Prince Charles Edward had slept,
served as Prince Albert's dressing-room. A beautiful
garden, often pronounced the finest in Great Britain,
lies in three successive terraces, on a steep slope, under
the S side of the castle rock ; comprises about 10 acres ;
and exhibits the three great styles of European liorticul-
ture — tlie Italian, the Dutch, and the French. A nobly-
wooded park * about 2 miles in diameter, witli many a
feature of both natural beauty and artificial embellisli-
inent, spreads all round tlie castle, as from a centre.
Within it are the conical hill of Torhmi (1291 feet), l^
mile to the WNW ; and the Pond of Drummond (5 x 2|
furl.), h mile to the ENE. The exquisite scenery of
Stratliearn lies under the eye and away to the E ; and a
sublime sweep of the Grampians fills all tlie view to the
N. — Ord. Sur., sh. 47, 1869. See Beauties of U2)i)cr
Strathcarn (3d ed., Crieff, 1870).
Drummore. See Drumore.
* The Transactions of the Uighland and Agricultural Societt/
for ISSO-Sl give the dimensiona of twelve magnificent beechca
here and seven oaks, according to which the tallest of the beeches
is 101 feet high and 15 feet in girth at 1 foot from the groinid, the
thickest being 2!) feet in girtli and 71 feet high; whilst of the oaka
the largest is 70 feet high and I'Ji in girth.
DRUMMOSSIE MUIR
Drmmnossie Muir, a bleak, broad-backed, sandstone
ridge on the mutual border of Dores, Inverness, Daviot,
and Croy parishes, ISTE Inverness-shire. Forming the
north-eastern and declining portion of the continuous
south-eastern hill-screen of the Great Glen of Scotland,
it presents to the view, from the neighbourhood of In-
verness, an almost straight sky-line ; has an average
summit elevation of 800 feet above sea-level ; and in-
cludes, at tlie NE end, the battlefield of Culloden.
Drum muir. See Botiuphxie.
Drumnadrochit, a hamlet, with an hotel, in Urquhart
and Glenmoriston parish, Inverness-shire, in the mouth
of Glen Urquhart, Ih mile W by S of Temple Pier, on
the AV shore of Loch Ness, and 14 miles SAV of Inver-
ness, under which it has a post office, with money order,
savings' bank, and telegraph departments. Cattle fairs
are held here on the Tuesdays of October and November
before Beauly.
Drumnetermont. See Dkummietermox.
Drumoak, a parish partly in Kincardine, but chiefly
in Aberdeenshire, traversed by the Deeside section of
the Great North of Scotland, with Drum and Park
stations thereon, 10 and 11 miles WSAV of Aberdeen,
under which Drumoak has a post office. It is bounded
N by Echt and Peterculter, SE by Peterculter, S by
Dirrris, and SW by Banchory-Ternan ; and rudely re-
sembling a triangle in shape, with apex to ENE, it has
an utmost length from E to AV of 5^ miles, an utmost
breadth from N to S of 3J miles, and an area of 7401:^
acres, of which 2021^^ are in Kincardineshire, and 164J
are water. The broadening Dee flows 4^ miles east-
north-eastward along all the boundary with Durris ; and
Gormack Burn 5| miles eastward along that with Echt
and Peterculter, to form with Leuchar Bui'n the Burn of
Culter, which itself for J mile continues to separate Drum-
oak and Peterculter. Towards the SAV the shallow, weedy
Loch of Drum (6 x 2J furl. ) lies at an altitude of 225 feet.
Sinking along the Burn of Culter to 123, and along the
Dee to 82, feet above sea-level, the surface rises to 350
feet on Ord Hill, 414 on the central ridge of the Hill of
Drum, and 254 at the parish church. Gneiss and granite
are the prevailing rocks ; and the soil, light and sandy
along the Dee, elsewhere ranges from good black loamy
on the higher southern slope to gravellj' and moorish
overlying moorband or retentive blue stony clay. Nearly
a fourth of the entire area is under wood, over a sixth
is pastoral or waste, and the rest is in cultivation. James
Gregory (1638-75), the greatest philosopher of his age
but one, that one being Newton, was born in Drumoak,
his father being parish minister ; and so perhaps was his
brother David (1627-1720), who himself had a singular
turn for mechanics and mathematics. Arrow-heads,
three stone coffins, and silver coins have been found ;
a curious sculptured stone was transferred in 1822 from
Keith's Muir to the top of Hawk Hillock in the policies
of Park ; but the chief antiquity is the Tower of Drum,
which is separately noticed, as likewise are the man-
sions of Drum and Park. Five proprietors hold each an
annual value of more, and 3 of less, than £100. Drumoak
is in the presbytery and synod of Aberdeen ; the living
is worth £230. The church, ^ mile N of Park station,
is a good Gothic edifice of 1836, containing 650 sittings ;
and a Free church, erected at a cost of £1500, was opened
at Park in January 1880. Dn;moak public, Sunnyside
female Church of Scotland, and Glashmore sessional
school, with respective accommodation for 108, 33, and
49 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 63, 25,
and 22, and grants of £61, 16s., £18, 2s., and £15, 6.s.
Valuation (1881) £5678, 19s. 8d., of which £1025,
19s. 5d. was for the Kincardineshire section. Pop.
(1801) 648, (1831) 804, (1861) 996, (1871) 1032, (1881)
9B0.—Ord. Sur., shs. 76, 77, 66, 1871-76.
Dnunochter (Gael, driiim-uachdar, ' upper ridge '), a
mountain pass (1500 feet) over the Central Grampians,
on the mutual border of Perth and Inverness shires,
5| miles S of Dalwhinnie station, and 2 NNW of Dal-
naspidal. Flanked to the AV by the Boar of Badenoch
(2452 feet), Bruach nan lomalrean (3175), and Ben
Udlaman (3306), to the W by Creagan Doire an Donaidh
DRUNKIE
(2367) and Chaoruinn (3004), it is traversed both by
the Great North Road from Perth to Inverness and by
the Highland railway, being the highest point reached
by any railway in the Kingdom. Snow often drifts
here to a great extent, lying 30 feet deep in the storm
of March 1881.— OrrZ. Sur., sh. 63, 1873.
Drumochy. See Drummochy.
Drumore, a lochlet (1 x ^ furl.) on the mutual border
of Kirkmichael and ilaybole parishes, AjTshire, ^ mile
NNW of Kirkmichael village.
Drumore, a seaport village in Kirkraaiden parish,
SAV Wigtownshire, on a small bay of its own name, at
the AV side of Luce Bay, 5 miles N by AV of the Mull of
Galloway, and 17^ S by E of Stranraer, with which it
communicates daily by coach. It has a post office, ^vith
money order and savings' bank departments, 4 inns, a
public school, a small harbour with a (juay and good
anchorage, and ruins of a castle, still habitable in 1684;
and it carries on some small commerce in the export of
agricultural produce, and the import of coals and lime.
Drumore, an estate, with a mansion, in Prestonpans
parish, Haddingtonshire, on the coast, 1| mile ENE of
Musselburgh. Its owner. Col. AVilliam Aitchison (b.
1827 ; sue. 1846), holds 121 acres in the shire, valued
at £872 per annum, including £538 for minerals.
Drumore, a station at the mutual boundary of Anwoth
and Kirkmabreck parishes, SW Kirkcudbrightshire, on
the Castle-Douglas and Portpatrick railway, 4j miles
ENE of Creetown.
Drumour. See Duxkeld, Little.
Drumpellier, extensive iron-works and mineral pits
of Old Monkland parish, Lanarkshire, in the western
■vicinity of Coatbridge. Drumpellier House, IJ mile
AV of the town, is the property of D. Carrick-Buchanan,
Esq. of Caeradale, who holds 868 acres in Lanark-
shire, valued at £500 per annum.
Drumry, an estate on the AV border of New Kilpatrick
parish, Dumbartonshire, 2^ miles ESE of Duntocher.
From the Callendar family it passed in 1346 to the
Li\'ingstones, and from Sir James Hamilton of F}Tiart
in 1528 to Laurence Crawfurd of Kilbirnie, ancestor of
the Crawfurd-PoUoks of Pollok. Some ruins on it
have been thought to be those of a chapel which he
founded, but more probably are a remnant of Drumry
Castle.
Drumsargard or Drumsharg, an ancient barony in
Cambuslang parish, Lanarkshire. Comprising nearly
two-thirds of the parish, it belonged successively to the
Oliphants, Alurrays, Douglases, and Hamiltons, and
changed its name in the 17th century to Cambuslang.
Its stately castle, crowning a round flat-topped mound,
20 feet high. If mile ESE of Cambuslang church, has
left scarcely a vestige.
Drumsharg. See Drum.=iaegard.
Drumshoreland, a station and a moor in Uphall
parish, Linlithgowshire. The station is on the Edin-
burgh and Bathgate section of the North British, 1 mUe
S of Broxburn, 7| miles E by N of Bathgate, and Hi AV
of Edinburgh. The moor, extending from tlie southern
vicinity of the station to the Almond or Edinburgh-
shire border, comprises some 200 acres of uncultivated
land, one-half of it covered with natural wood.
Drumsleet. See Troqueer.
Drumsturdy, a straggling village in Monifieth parish,
Forfarsliire, at the N base of Laws Hill, 6 miles ENE
of Dundee.
Drumtochty Castle, a mansion in Fordoun parish,
Kincardineshire, on the left bank of Luther Water near
its source, 1 mile NNE of Strathfinella HiU (1358 feet),
2 miles AVNW of Auchinblae village, and 4J NW of
Fordoun station. A splendid Gothic edifice, built at a
cost of £30,000 from designs by Gillespie Graham, and
standing in finely-wooded grounds, it is the scat of Major
Andrew Gammell of Countesswells, who holds in Kin-
cardineshire 4823 acres, valued at £2224, 9s. per annum.
Drumvaich, a hamlet in Kilniadock parish, Perth-
shire, on the left bank of the Teith, 4 miles AVNAV of
Doune.
Drunkie, a loch on the mutual border of Aberfoyle
375
DRYBRIDGE
and Port of Monteith parishes, Pertlisliire, 3 miles NNE
of Aberfoyle hamlet, ami 3 SE of the Trosachs Hotel. Ly-
ing 450 feet above sea-level, it extends 9 furlongs north-
north-eastward to within J mile of Loch YenaLhar, and
varies in width between 1 and 7^ furlongs, the latter
measured along a narrow westward arm. Its shores
are prettily wooded, and it contains tine red-fleshed
trout, running from J to 1 \h.—Ord. Sur., sh. 38, 1871.
Drybridge, a village in Whitburn parish, Linlithgow-
shire, 1 mile NE of the meeting-point of Linlithgow,
Edinburgh, and Lanark shires, and within f mile of
Fauld house and Crofthead stations.
Drybridge, a station in Dundonald parish, AjTshire,
on the Kilmarnock and Troon railway, 5 miles W by S
of Kilmarnock.
Dryburgh Abbey, a noble monastic ruin in Merton
parish, S\V Berwickshire, 1^ mile E of Newtown St
Boswell's station, and 4^ miles ESE of Melrose, or 6 by
way of Bemersyde Hill. It stands, 200 feet above sea-
level, in the midst of a low green haugh, that, measur-
ing 3| by 2 J furlongs, is sheltered northward by a woody
hill (588 feet), and on the other three sides is washed by
a horseshoe bend of 'chiming Tweed,' whose right or
opposite bank is steep and copse-clad — beyond it the
triple Eildons (1385 feet). The haugh itself is an
orchard, dedicated by ' David, Earl of Buchan, to
liis most excellent Parents ; ' and the ruins, of reddish-
brown sandstone, hewn from the quarry of Dryburgh,
are so overgrown with foliage that 'everywhere you
behold the usurpation of nature over art. In one
roofless apartment a fine spruce and holly are to be seen
flourishing in the rubbish ; in others, the walls are
completely covered with ivy ; and, even on the top of
some of the arches, trees have sprung up to a con-
siderable growth, and, clustering with the aspiring
pinnacles, add character to the Gothic pUe. These aged
trees on the summit of the walls are the surest records
we have of the antiquity of its destruction' {Monastic
Annals of Tcviotdalc). The .site is uneven, the chapter-
house standing ten steps below, and the church ten
steps above, the cloisters, which, grassy and open now,
were 93 feet square. To the N of them stood the church ;
to the S the refectory (100 x 30 feet), with beautiful
W rose-window of twelve lights ; and to the E, the
abbot's parlour, library (23 x 23 feet), dormitory
(45 X 23 feet), chapter-house (47 x 23 feet ; 20 high),
St Modan's chapel or sacristy (24 x 13 feet), etc. All
the conventual buildings are in the Transition style
from Romanesque to First Pointed ; and the most
perfect of them all is the chaj)ter-house, which still
retains its barrel - vaulted roof and arched sedilia
along its eastern wall, whilst a double circle on tlie
floor marks, it is said, the founder's sepulchre. Nearly
opposite this chapter-house is a goodly yew-tree, as old
as, if not older than, the abbey. The church was cruci-
form, and comj^rised a six-bayed nave (98 x 55 feet), a
shallow transept (75 x 20 feet) with eastern aisles,
and a two-bayed choir with a presbytery beyond, in
place of a lady chapel — the whole building measuring
190 feet from end to end. Transept and choir are
First Pointed in style ; but the nave, restored in the
first half of the 14th century, is altogether Second
Pointed. ' Are ' and ' is,' we say, though little remains
of this great monument of former piety .save the nave's
western gable, the gable of the S transejit with its large
and fine five-light window, and St Mary's Aisle — a frag-
ment of choir and N transept, containing the tombs of
the Haigs of 15emer.syde, of the Erskines, and of Sir
"Walter and Sir Walter's kinsfolk. St Mary's Aisle,
whereof wrote Alexander Smith, that ' when the swollen
Tweed raves as it sweeps, red and broad, round the
ruins of Dryburgh, you think of him who rests there —
the magician asleep in the lap of legends old, the
sorcerer buried in the heart of the land he has made
enchanted.'
The eleventh Earl of ]5uchan, we are told by Allan
Cunningham, waited on Lady Scott in 1819, when the
illustrious author of Wavcrlcy was brought nigh to tlic
grave by a grievous illness, and begged her to intercede
376
DRYBURGH ABBEY
with her husband to do him the honour of being buried
in Drj-burgh. 'The ])lace,' said the Earl, 'is very
beautiful,- — ^just such a place as the poet loves ; and as
he has a fine taste that way, he is sure of being gratified
with my oiler.' Scott, it is said, good-humouredly
promised to give Lord Buchan the refusal, since he
seemed so solicitous. The peer himself, however, was
buried in Dryburgh three years before the bard. The
last resting-place of Sir Walter Scott is a small spot
of ground in an area formed by four pillars, in one of
the ruined aisles that belonged to his boasted forbears —
the Haliburtons of Merton, an ancient baronial famUy, of
which Sir Walter's paternal grandmother was a member,
and of which Sir Walter himself was the lineal representa-
tive. On a side wall is the following inscription : — ' Sub
hoc tumulo jacet Joannes Haliburtonus, Baro de Mer-
toun, vir religione et virtutc clarus, (jui obiit 17 die
Augusti, 1640.' Beneath there is a coat-of-arms. On
the back wall the later history of the .spot is expressed
on a tablet as follows : — ' Hunc locum sepulturae D.
Senescliallus Buchaniie Comes Gualtero, Thomse et
Roberto Scott, Haliburtoni nepotibus, concessit, 1791 ;'
—that is to say, the Earl of Buchan granted this place
of sepulture in 1791, to Walter, Thomas, and Robert
Scott, descendants of the Laird of Haliburton. The
persons indicated Avere the father and uncles of Sir
Walter. The second of these uncles, however, and his
own wife, were the only members of his family there
interred before him. Lady Scott was buried there
in May 1826 ; Sir Walter himself on 26 Sept. 1832 ;
his sou. Colonel Sir Walter Scott, in Feb. 1847 ; and
John Gibson Lockhart, ' his son-in-law, biographer, and
friend,' in Nov. 1854. So small is the space that the
body of ' the mighty minstrel ' had to be laid in a
direction north and south, instead of eastward, facing
the Advent dawn.
' So there, in solemn solitude,
In that sequester'd spot
Lies mingling with its kindred clay
The dust of Walter Scott !
Ah ! where is now the flashing eye
That kindled up at Flodden field,
That saw, in fancj', onsets fierce,
And clashing spear and shield,—
' The eager and untiring step,
That urged the search for Border lore.
To make old Scotland's heroes known
On every peojiled shore,—
The wondrous sjiell that summon'd up
The charging squadrons fierce and fast,
And garnished everj' cottage wall
With pictures of the past, —
' The graphic pen that drew at once
The traits alike so truly shown
In Bertram's faithful pedagogue,
And haughty Marmion, —
The hand that equally could paint,
And give to each proiiortion fair,
The stern, the wild Meg Merrilies,
And lovely Lady Clare, —
' The glowing dreams of bright romance
That teeming filled his ample brow, —
Where is his daring chivalry,
Where are his visions now ?
The open hand, the generous lieart
That joy'd to soothe a neighbour's pains?
Naught, naught, we see, save grass and weeds
And solemn silence reigns.
' The flashing eye is dimm'd for aye ;
The stalwart limb is stiff and cold ;
Ko longer jiours liis trumpet-note
To wake the jousts of old.
The generous heart, the open hand,
The ruddy cheek, the silver hair.
Are mouldering in the silent dust —
All, all is lonely there !'
The same eleventh Earl of Buchan was devotedly at-
tached to Dryburgh. At a short distance from the abbey
he constructed, in 1817, an elegant wire suspension-bridge
over the Tweed, '260 feet in lengtli, and 4 feet 7 inches
between the rails, which was blown dowii about 1850.
His Lordship also erected on his grounds here an Ionic
temple, with a statue of Apollo in the inside, aud
DEYBUEGH ABBEY
DRYTE
a bust of the bard of The Seasons surmounting the
dome. He raised, too, a colossal statue of Sir "William
Wallace on the summit of a steep and thickly-planted
hill ; which, placed on its pedestal 22 Sept. 1814,
the anniversary of the victory at Stirling Bridge in 1297,
was the first AVallace monument in Scotland. ' It
occupies so eminent a situation,' saj'S Mr Chambers,
'that "Wallace, frowning towards England, is visible
even from Berwick, a distance of more than 30 miles.'
The statue is 21^ feet high, and is formed of red sand-
stone, painted white. It was designed by Mr John
Smith, a self-taught sculptor, from a supposed authentic
portrait, which was purchased in France by the father of
the late Sir Philip Ainslie of Pilton. The hero is re-
presented in the ancient Scottish dress and armour, with
a shield hanging from his left hand, and leaning lightly
on his spear with his right. A tablet below bears an
appropriate inscription.
Burns visited the ruins on 10 Slay 1787, "Words-
worth and his sister Dorothy on 20 Sept. 1803 ; and
Sir "Walter Scott, in his Miiistrdsy of the Scottish Border,
gives an interesting account of one who actually dwelt
amongst them — the Nun of Dryburgh. This was a
poor wanderer, who took up her abode, about the middle
of last century, in a vault which during the day she never
quitted. It was supposed, from an account she gave of
a spirit who used to arrange her habitation at night,
during her absence in search of food or charity at the
residences of gentlemen in the neighbourhood, that the
vault was haunted ; and it was long, on this account,
regarded -n-itli terror by the country folk. She never
could be prevailed upon to relate to her friends the
reason why she adopted so singular a course of life.
' But it was believed,' says Sir Walter, ' that it was
occasioned by a vow that, during the absence of a man
to whom she was attached, she would never look upon
the sun. Her lover never returned. He fell during
the civil war of 1745-6, and she never more beheld the
light of da}^. '
The name Dryburgh has been derived by followers of
Stukely from the Celtic darach-bruach, ' bank of the
grove of oaks ; ' and vestiges, we are told, of Pagan
worship have been found in the Bass Hill, a neighbour-
ing eminence, among which was an instrument used for
killing the victims in sacrifice. St Modan, a champion
of the Pioman party, came hither from Ireland in the
first half of the 8th century ; but it is something worse
than guesswork to suppose, with Mr Morton, that he
founded a monastery which ' was probably destroyed by
the ferocious Saxon invaders under Ida, the flame-bearer,
who landed on the coast of Yorkshire in 547, and, after
subduing Northumberland, added this part of Scotland
to his dominions by his victory over the Scoto-Britons
at Cattraeth. ' St Mary's Abbey was founded by Hugh
de Morville, Lord of Lauderdale and Constable of Scot-
land, in 1150.* According to the Chronicle of Melrose,
Beatrix de Beauchamp, wife of De Morville, obtained a
charter of confirmation for the new foundation from
David I. ; and the cemetery was consecrated on St
Martin's Day, 1150, 'that no demons might haunt it ; '
but the community did not come into residence till 1 3
Dec. 1152. The monks or canons regular (to give them
their proper title) were Premonstratensians from Alnnick ;
and their garb was a coarse black cassock, covered by a
white woollen cope, ' in imitation of the angels of heaven,
who are clothed in white garments,' hence their familiar
designation — White Friars. Tradition says, that the
English, under Edward II., in their retreat in 1322,
provoked by the imprudent triumph of the monks in
ringing the church bells at their departure, returned and
burned the abbey in revenge. Bower, however, as Dr
Hill Burton remarks, ' cannot be quite coiTect in saying
that Dryburgh was entirely reduced to powder, since
* On p. 100 of his Iliiifonj and Poetry of the Scotti.sh Border
(187&), Prof. Vcitch remarks that ' Dryburgh was founded a Httle
later [than 1136] by Hugh de Morville, who succeeded his father
in 1159, and died in 1162. Some hold that Morville u-a.s imidicated
in the murder of Thomas d, Beclcet. If so, the founding and rich
endowment of Dryljurgh was probably an expiation for this early
deed of his life.' Hut, surely, Uecket was murdered in 1170.
part of the building yet remaining is of older date than
the invasion.' King Piobcrt the Bruce contributed
liberally towards its repair ; but it has been doubted
whether it ever was fully restored to its original magni-
ficence. Certain flagrant disorders, which occurred here
in the latter half of the 14th century, drew down the
severe censure of Pope Gregory XL upon the inmates.
An alumnus of Dryburgh about this period has been
claimed in the ' Philosophicall Strode,' to whom and
the ' moral Gower ' Chaucer inscribed his I'voilus and
Crcsscidc ; way, Chaucer himself is said to have paid a
visit to Dryburgh. Alas ! the claim is ruthlessly de-
molished by Dr Hill Burton in Billings' AntiqicUies.
AVithin 20 miles of the Border, the abbey was ever ex-
posed to hostile assaults ; and we hear of its burning by
Richard II. in 1385, by Sir Robert Bowes and Sir Bryan
Latoun in 1544, and again by the Earl of Hertford in
1545, in which last year, some months before, James
Stewart, the abbot commendator, had with other chief-
tains crossed the Tweed into Northumberland, and
burned the village of Hornclifi'e, but by the garrisons
of Norham and Berwick had been attacked and driven
back with heavy loss, before he could effect more
damage. This same James Stewart was, through a
natural daughter, the ancestor of the Rev. Henry
Erskine of Chirnside (1624-96) and his two sons, the
founders of the Secession, Ebenezer (1680-1754) and
Ralph (1685-1752). Of these Henry and Ebenezer were
both of them born at Dryburgh, and the former is
buried here.
Annexed to the Crown in 1587, the lands of Dryburgh
M'cre by a charter of 1604 granted to John Erskine,
Earl of Mar, and erected into the lordship and barony
of Cardross. From the Earl's great-grandson, Henrj',
third Lord Cardross, they passed by purchase in 1682 to
Sir Patrick Scott, younger of Aucrum, in 1700 to
Thomas Haliburton of Newmains, in 1767 to Lieut. -Col.
Charles Tod, and finally in 1786 to David Stewart
Erskine, eleventh Earl of Buchan. Tlieir present holder
is his great-great-grandson, George Oswald Harry
Erskine Biber-Erskine, Esq. (b. 1858 ; sue. 1870), who
owns 359 acres in the shire, valued at £977 per annum.
His seat, called Dryburgh Abbey, adjoins the ruins, as
also does Dryburgh House. "The latter, a Scottish
Baronial edifice, enlarged by Messrs Peddie & Kinnear
in 1877, was for some time the residence of the Right
Hon. Charles Baillie, Lord Jerviswoode (1804-79). —
Ord. Sur., sh. 25, 1865. See James Morton's i/oruis<ic
AuTials of Tcviotdale (Edinb. 1832) ; Sir D. Erskine's
Annals and Antiquities of Dryburgh (Kelso, 1836) ; J.
Spottiswoode's Liber S. Marie de Dryburgh (Bannatyne
Club, Edinb., 1847) ; Dryburgh Abbey : its Monks and
its Lords (3d ed., Lond., 1864) ; vol. ii., p. 321, of the
Rev. J. F. Gordon's Monasticon (Glasg. 1868) ; and Jas.
F. Hunnewell's Xftzicfe o/<S'coi!i (Edinb. 1871).
Dry Bum, a rivulet in the E of Haddingtonshire,
issuing from little Black Loch (500 feet), in Spott
parish, on the northern slope of the Eastern Lammer-
muirs, and running 5 J miles east-north-eastward, chiefly
along the boundary between Innerwick and Dunbar
parishes, to the sea in the vicinity of Skalcraw, 4 miles
ESE of Dunbar town.
Dr3^e, a small river of Annandale, Dumfriesshire,
rising in the northern extremity of Hutton parish, at
an altitude of 1900 feet, on the southern slope of Loch
Fell (2256 feet), within 1^ mile of the Selkirkshire
border, and hh miles E by S of Moff'at. Thence it runs
18^ miles southward and south-south-westward, through
the northern half of Hutton, across the eastern wing of
Applegarth, and through the W of Dryfesdale, till it
falls into the Annan at a point 2 miles AV of Lockerbie,
and 140 feet above sea-level. Its basin, above Hutton
church, is hilly moorland ; but, in the middle and lower
parts, is champaign country, nearly all under the plough.
Open to the public, its waters contain abundance of
trout, herlings, and a few salmon. In fair weather
small and singularly liiai)id, it swells after heavy rain
into rapid and roaring freshet, and occasionally, over
breadths of rich loamy soil, cuts out a new channeL
377
DRYTE SANDS
The ancient parish church of Dryfesdalc stood on
Kirkhill, on the SE of the Dryfc. In 1670, both it
and part of its graveyard were swept away, and their
site converted into a sand-bed, by one of the Dryfe's
impetuous inundations. Next year, a new church was
built near the former site, on what was thought a more
secure spot ; yet even this was, in a few years, so
menaced bj- the encroachments of the river, wliich tore
away piece after piece of the graveyard, that, along with
its site, it was finally abandoned. These disasters were
regarded as the verification of an old saying of Thomas
the Rhymer, which a less astute observer of the furiously
devastating power of the Dryfe than he might very
safely have uttered —
' Let spades and shools do what they may,
Dryfe shall tak Drysdale kirk away."
The church of 1670, and even greater part of the ceme-
tery, have now wholly disappeared. A story has long
been current in Annandale, that ' a Dryfesdale man once
buried a wife and married a wife in ae day, ' which fell
out thus. A widower, after mourning for a reasonable
time the spouse whom he had buried in Dryfesdale, was
proceeding, on a wet and stormy day, to take to him-
self a second helpmate, when, crossing the bridge at the
head of the bridal party, he saw the coffin of his former
wife falling from ' the scaur ' into the torrent, and
gliding towards the spot on which he stood. To rescue
it from the water, and re-commit it to the earth was no
long task, after which the wedding proceeded merrily.
The tract along the lowermost reach of the Drj'fe is a
stretch of low level land, consisting of silt and detritus
brought down by the freshets, and called Drj'fe Sands.
The spot is memorable as the scene of a sanguinary
conflict, in Dec. 1593, between the Maxwells and the
Johnstones. The former, though much superior in
numbers, were routed and pursued with the loss of
700 men, including their commander, Lord Maxwell.
Many, on reaching Lockerbie, were there cut down in a
manner so ruthless as to give rise to the proverbial
phrase for a severe wound, ' a Lockerbie lick. ' Two
very aged thorn-trees, the 'Maxwell Thorns,' stood on
the field of conflict, ^ mile below the old churchyard
of Dryfesdale, but about 1845 were swept away by a
freshet— Ord. Sur., shs. 16, 10, 1864. See pp. 232-234
of Robert Chambers' Popular llkymes of Scotland (ed.
1870).
Dryfe Sands. See Dryfe.
Dryfesdale (popularly Drysdale), a parish in the middle
of Annandale, Dumfriesshire, containing in the S the
village of Bexi;.\ll, and towards the centre the town of
LocKEnBiE, whose station on the main line of the Cale-
donian is 25| miles NW of Carlisle, and 75J S by W of
Edinburgh. It is bounded N and NE by Applegarth,
E by Hutton, SE by Tundergarth, S by St Mungo, SW
by Dalton, and W by Lochmaben. Its utmost length,
from NNE to SSW, is 7\ miles ; its breadth, from E to
W, varies between 1 mile and 4| miles ; and its area is
10,372 acres, of which 1402 are water. From below
Applegarth church to just below Daltonhook the Annan
winds 9 miles south-by-eastward, tracing, roughly or
closely, the Lochmaben and Dalton boundaries ; and
Dryfe Water, its atlluent, flows 4 miles south-westward
on the Afiplcgarth border and through the north-
western interior. Along the Hutton border Cohuie
Water runs 1| mile southward to the Water of Milk,
which itself meanders 2| miles south-westward along all
the Tundergarth boundary. In the flat S, the surface,
where the Annan quits this parish, sinks to less than 140
feet above sea-level, thence rising north -north-eastward
to 234 feet at Bengali Hill, 391 near Lockerbie Hill, 733
at Whitewoollcn Hill, 708 at Sloda Hill, 734 at Croft-
head Hill, and 774 on Newfield Moor — heights that
command a very extensive view. The rocks of the hills
are eruptive and Silurian ; those of the plains include a
very soft sandstone and a dark-coloured limestone. The
soil, on most of the hills, is rich enough to be arable ;
on much of the low flat grounds, is light and dry ; and
along the streams, is deep, fertile, alluvial loam. About
378
DRYMEN
350 acres are pastoral or waste, 250 are imder wood, and
all the rest of the land is either regularly or occasionally
in tillage. Vestiges of strong old towers are at Nether-
place, Old Walls, Kirkton Mains, Myrehead, and Dal-
tonhook. Remains of eight camps, some square or
Roman, others circular or Caledonian, occur in difl'erent
places, chiefly on eminences ; and two of them, Roman
and Caledonian, confront each other on hills to the
NE of Bengali village. Traces exist, too, of a Roman
road, running northward from England by way of
Brunswark Hill, and sending off a westward branch to
Nithsdale. Mansions are Lockerbie House and Dryfe-
holm ; and 6 proprietors hold each an annual value of
£500 and upwards, 15 of between £100 and £500, 15 of
from £50 to £100, and 35 of from £20 to £50. Dryfes-
dale is in the presbytery of Lochmaben and synod of
Dumfries ; the living is worth £222. The churches are all
at Lockerbie, where Dryfesdale public school, a Gothic
building erected in 1875 at a cost of £4500, with accom-
modation for 600 children, had (1880) an average attend-
ance of 407, and a grant of £323, 18s. Valuation (1860)
£10,881, (1882) £18,833, 2s. 6d. Pop. (1801) 1893,
(1831) 2283, (1861) 2509, (1871) 2825, (1881) 2971.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 10, 1864.
Drygate. See Glasgow.
Drygrange, an estate, with a mansion, in ^lelrose
parish, Roxburghshire, on the right bank of Leader
Water, f mile above its influx to the Tweed, and 2J
miles ENE of Melrose. The mansion, a fine old build-
ing, amid ancestral trees, occupies the site of the chief
granary of j\Ielrose Abbey. Granted by the Abbey to
David Lithgow in the reign of James V., the estate has
come, through several hands, to Sir George Hector
Leith-Buchanan, seventh Bart, since 1775 (b. 1833 ;
sue. 1842), who married in 1861 the only daughter of
the late Thomas Tod, Esq. of Drygrange, and who holds
1315 acres in the shire, valued at £1724 per annum.
Drygrange Bridge, across the Tweed near the Leader's
confluence, takes over the road from Melrose and St
Boswells to Lauder, and commands a beautiful view of —
' Ercildoune and Cowdenknowes,
Where Homes had ance commanding ;
And Drygrange wi' the milk-white ewes,
'Twixt Tweed and Leader standing.'
Dryhope, a burn, a hill, and a Border peel-tower in
the A\' of Yarrow parish, Selkirkshire. The burn rises
on Deepslake Knowe (1717 feet), and runs 2g miles south-
south-eastward to Yarrow Water, at a jioint 2i furlongs
NE of the foot of St Mary's Loch. The hill, called
Dryhope Rig, flanks the right side of the upper course
of the burn, and has an altitude of 1712 feet above sea-
level. Dryhope Tower, crowning a slight eminence on
the right bank of the burn, 5 furlongs N of the Loch,
and 15^ miles WSW of Selkirk, was one of the strongest
peel-houses in Ettrick Forest — square and lofty, com-
manding a glorious view up the vale of the Yarrow and
over the Loch of the Lowes away to the Moffatdale Hills.
Here, about 1550, was born the 'Flower of Yarrow,'
^lary Scott, the bride of Wat Scott of Harden, whom
her father engaged to find in inan's and horse meat at
his tower of Dryhope for a year and a day, in return for
the profits of the first Michaelmas moon. Five barons
pledged themselves for the observance of the contract,
which was signed for all parties by a notary public,
none of the seven being able to write his name. Wat
either succeeded or ousted his father-in-law, for on 13
July 1592, James VI. issued at Peebles a warrant to
demolish the fortalicc of Dryhope, ' pertaining to Walter
Scott of Harden, who was art and part of the late
treasonable fact perpetrate against his highness' own
person at Falkland. ' Demolished, however, Dryhope was
certainly not, for the tower, though roofless, is still in
good preservation — the property still of a Scott, the
Duke of Buccleuch.— On^. Sur., sh. 16, 1864.
Drjnnen, a village and a parish of SW Stirlingshire.
The village stands 1§ mile N by W of Drymcn station,
on the Forth and Clyde Junction section of the North
British, this being 6^ miles ENE of Balloch and 23^
WSW of Stirling ; and, forming a good centre for visit-
DRYMEN
DUBTON
ing some of the fine scenery in the W of Stirlingshire,
it has a post office under Glasgow, with money order,
savings' bank, and railway telegraph departments, a
branch of the Royal Bank, and fairs for cattle, sheep,
and horses on the last "Wednesday of April, 17 May, and
the Friday before the first Doune November market, for
hiring on 21 May and the first Friday of November.
The parish is bounded N by Aberfoyle and Port of
Monteith, in Perthshire ; E and SE by Kippen, Balfron,
.and Killearn ; S and SW by Dumbarton and Kilmaro-
nock, in Dumbartonshire ; and W by Buchanan. Its
utmost length, from N by E to S by W, is 11 miles;
its breadth varies between 6-\ furlongs and lOJ miles ;
and its area is 30,973:^ acres, of which 123 are water.
ExDRiCK Water, entering from Killearn, flows 7f miles
southward and west-north-westward ' in many a loop
and link ' along the Killearn and Kilmaronock borders
and across the southern interior ; from the N it is
joined here by Altquhar, from the SW by Catter,
Burn. Duchray and Kelty Waters, again, both head-
streams of the Forth, trace 4 and 2| miles of the Aber-
foyle border ; and the Forth itself winds 3f miles east-
ward along all the boundary with Port of Monteith.
The drainage belongs thus partly to the Clyde and
partly to the Forth ; but the ' divide ' between the two
river systems is marked by no lofty height. Along the
Endrick the surface sinks to about 30 feet above sea-
level, along the Forth to 40 ; and the highest point in
Drymen between is Bat a' Charchel (750 feet), whilst
the road from DrjTuen village to Buckl3-vie nowhere
exceeds 310 feet. In the southern wing of the parish
are Meikle Caldon (602 feet) and Cameron Muir (530) ;
in the north-western, Drum of Clasmorei(577), Maol
Ruadh (624), *Gualann (1514), Elrig (683), Maol an
larairne (720), and the * south-eastern shoulder (1750) of
Bexvraick, where asterisks mark those heights that rise
on the Buchanan boundary. The tract along the Endrick,
a narrow vale, in places scarcely a mile in width, con-
trasts strongly with the wide desolate moorlands on either
side of it, and presents in some parts very beautiful scenery.
A stretch of about 3 miles by 2h, to the S of this valley,
mainly consists of Cameron Muir, which passes into
junction with the western skirts of the Lennox Hills ;
and the region to the N of the vallej^, measuring about
8^ miles by 9, and bisected by the watershed between
the Clyde and Forth, is almost all either moss or moor
or mountain, its north-eastern portion forming part of
Flanders Moss, which, lying along the Forth, has been
in recent years extensively reclaimed. The greater por-
tion of the arable land lies at elevations of from 40 to
250 feet above sea-level ; but here and there cultivation
has been carried as high as 450 feet. The soil ranges
from fertile clay and rich brown loam, through nearly
all gradations, to moorish earth and spongy moss ; but
the commonest soU is poor and tilly, over a cold retentive
bottom. About 9944 acres are in tillage, 1350 pas-
ture, 556 under wood, and 21,700 waste. Duchray
Castle is an interesting antiquity. A large cairn, in
which sarcophagi and human bones were found, was on
East Cameron farm ; and remains of a Roman foit,
known as Garfarran Peel, are on Garfarran farm, at the
western extremity of Flanders JIoss. Drumbeg, near
the parish church, was long but falsely believed to be
the birthplace of John Napier of Merchiston (1550-1617),
whose patrimonial inheritance was partly situate here,
and who at the house of Gartness, on the Endrick, close
to a waterfall, the Pot of Gartness, worked out much
of his famous treatise on logarithms. Mansions are
Endrickbank and Park House. The Duke of Montrose
and Wm. C. G. Bontine, Esq. of Gartmore, own land
respectively to the yearly value of £4000 and £2053 ;
and 8 other proprietors hold each an annual value of
£500 and upwards, 12 of between £100 and £500, 8 of
from £50 to £100, and 13 of from £20 to £50. Drymen
is in the presbytery of Dumbarton and synod of Glas-
gow and Ayr ; th»; living is worth £368. The parish
„hurch (1771 ; 400 sittings) stands near the village,
where also is a U.P. church (1819). Two public schools,
AucHiNTEOiG and Drymen, with respective accommoda-
tion for 56 and 120 children, had (ISSO) an average
attendance of 20 and 75, and grants of £33 and £69,
19s. 2d. Valuation (1860) £11,508, (1882) £16,455,
7s. 3d., plus £8671 for railway. Pop. (1801) 1607,
(1831) 1690, (1861) 1619, (1871) 1405, (1881) 1431.—
Orel. Sitr., shs. 38, 30, 1871-66.
Drynie, an estate, with a mansion, in Kilmuir- Wester
parish, Ross-shire, near the W shore of the Moray Firth,
4 miles N bj' E of Inverness.
Drynoch, a burn in Bracadale parish, Isle of Skye,
Inverness-shire, running 4 J miles westward to the head
of Loch Harport.
Drysdale. See Dryfesdale.
Duag, an alpine streamlet in the W of Blair Athole
parish, Perthshire, rising near the watershed of the
central Grampians, and running impetuously 2| mile.s
south-south-eastward to the Garry in the vicinity of
Dalnaspidal.
Dualt, a bum of Strathblane and KQleam parishes,
Stirlingshire, rising on Auchineden HiU, at an alti-
tude of 830 feet, and ninning 3 miles north-north-east-
ward, chiefly along the mutual boundary of the parishes,
till, near Killearn House, it falls into the Caruock, a sub-
afiluent of the Endrick. In a deep, wooded glen a little
above its mouth, it forms, with several smaller falls, one
beautiful cascade of 60 feet.—Ord. Sur., sh. 30, 1866.
Duard or Rudha Dubh Ard, a headland (91 feet) to
the N of the entrance of Loch Broom, XW Ross-shire,
opposite Horse island, and 8 miles NW of Ullapool.
Duart, a small bay and a ruined castle in Torosay
parish, ]\Iull island, Argyllshire. The bay, opening at
the north-eastern extremity of Mull, opposite the SW
end of Lismore, measures 1 by f mile. The castle, 4J
miles N of Achnacraig, stands on a bold headland at the
E side of the bay, and commands one of the grandest
prospects in the Western Highlands. Dating from some
unknown period of the Norsemen's invasion, and first
coming into record in 1390 as the stronghold of the
Macleans of Mull, it comprises a massive square tower
(75 X 72 feet) of seemingly the 14th century, and a range
of less ancient buildings. In 1523 Lachlan Maclean of
Duart exposed his wife, the Earl of Argyll's daughter,
on a tide-swept islet between Lismore and Mull, the
' Lady's Rock,' whence she was rescued by a passing
boat — an episode dramatised in Joanna Baillie's Family
Legend, and only one out of the many tragedies wit-
nessed by Duart's walls in the endless feud between the
Macdonalds and the Macleans, from whom the estate
passed to the Argyll family in the latter half of the 17th
centurj-. Modern Duart House, IJ mile NNW of
Achnacraig, is the seat of Arbuthnot Charles Guthrie,
Esq. (b. 1825), who owns 23,012 acres in the shire,
valued at £3217 per annum.
Dubbieside or Innerleven, a coast village on the E
border of Wemyss parish, Fife, at the right side of the
mouth of tlie river Leven, opposite Leven town. It
communicates with Leven by a suspension-bridge over
the river, shares in its industries, and has a U. P. church.
Dubbs Cauldron, a pretty cascade on Wamphray
Water, in Wamphray parish, NE Dumfriesshii-e.
Dubcapon. See Duxkeld and Dowally.
Dubford, a hamlet in Gamrie parish, NE Banffshire,
1 mile S of Gardenstown, and 7^ miles E of Banft", under
which it lias a post oSice.
Dubh Loch. See Douloch.
Dublin Row, a village on the N border of Lesmahagow
parish, Lanarkshire, almost continuous with Kirkfield-
bank. If mile W of Lanark.
Dub of Hass. See Dalbeattie.
Dubston, a hamlet in Gamrie parish, Banffshire, near
Duijfukd.
Dubton, a railway junction in the NW corner of
Montrose parish, Forfarshire, on the Scottish North-
Eastern section of the Caledonian, at the deflection of
the branch lino to Montrose, near Hillside village, 3
miles NNW of Montrose. Dubton House, in its vicinity,
is the seat of Thomas Renny-Tailyour, Esq. (b. 1812 ;
sue. 1849), who holds 557 acres in the sliire, valued at
£2081, 7s. per annum.
379
DUCHALL
Duchall, an estate, with a mansion of 1768, in Kil-
malcolm parish, Renfrewshire, on the right bank of the
Grj-fe, If mile SSW of Kilmalcolm village. From the
IStli century the estate, with a castle standing IJ mile
to the WNW, belonged to the Lyles, the seventh of
whose line was created Lord Lyle about 1446. The
fourth and last Lord sold it a century later to Jolin
Porterfield of Porterlield, wliose descendants held it for
fully 300 years. It is now the property of Sir Michael
Shaw-Stewart of Ahdc.owan.
Duchal Law, the eastern summit (725 feet) of the
Braes of Glenitfer in Abbey parish, Renfrewshire, 3^
miles S of Paisley. It commands an extensive and very
lovely view.
Duchray, an estate, with an old castle, in Drymen
parish, Stirlingshire. The castle, on the right bank of
Duchray Water, 3 miles "WSW of Aberfoyle hamlet, and
10 NW of Bucklp-ie station, was formerly a stronghold
of those Grahams who in 1671 fought the Earl of Airth
upon Aberfoyle bridge, and is now beautifully mantled
with i^-y. Its orchard contains some aged filbert trees,
producing a peculiarly large and fine-flavoured nut.
Duchray Water, the southern head-stream of the river
Forth, in Stirling and Perth shires, rises, at an altitude
of 3000 feet, on the N side of Ben Lomond (3192), and
thence winds 13| miles north-north-eastward, south-
eastward, and east-north-eastward through the interior
or along the borders of Buchanan, Drjnnen, and Aber-
foyle parishes, till, at a point 1 mile W of Aberfoyle
hamlet, it unites with the Avondhu to form the Laggan.
See Foivni.—Ord. Sur., sh, 38, 1871.
Ducraig, a rocky islet of Dunfermline parish, Fife, in
the Firth of Forth, ^ mile SW of Rosyth Castle, and 2f
miles NW of Queensferry. The depth of water adjacent
to it, at tlie lowest ebb tide, is 21 feet.
Duddingston, a village and a coast parish of Mid-
lothian. Tlie village, Ig mile WSW of Portobello
station, and 2^ miles SE by E of Edinburgh Post Office
through the Queen's Park, stands, at an altitude of
150 feet above sea-level, at the south-eastern base of
Arthur's Seat and near the north-eastern shore of Dud-
dingston Loch. With background of hill, and foreground
of park and manse and antique kirk and lake, it is
itself a pretty little place, consisting of a small back
street and a single row of plain good old-fashioned
villas. At it are an inn, a post office under Edinburgh,
and a plastered house to the E in which Prince Charles
Edward is said to have passed the night before the
battle of Prestonpans ; whilst at Duddingston Mills,
a hamlet J mile nearer Portobello, are a public
school and Cauvin's Hospital. A plain white villa-
like building this, founded by Louis Cauvin, French
teacher in Edinburgh, and afterwards farmer at Dud-
dingston, who, dying in 1825, bequeathed his pro-
perty for the maintenance and education of the sons of
poor but honest teachers and farmers, or, failing such,
master-printers, booksellers, and farm servants. It was
opened in 1833, and gives instruction to 17 boys in
classics, modern languages, mathematics, etc.
Tlie parish, containing also the town of Portobello
and Joppa, and the village of Easter Duddingston, is
bounded N by South Leith, NE by the Firth of Forth,
S by Liberton, SW by St Cuthberts, and W by Canon-
gate. Its utmost length is 3g miles from ENE to WSW,
viz., from the Firth, at the mouth of Burdiehouse Burn,
to the old Dalkeith road above Echo Bank ; its utmost
width is li mile ; and its area is 1899^ acres, of which
143 are foreshore and 25^ water. Burdiehouse or
Brunstane Burn winds 2 miles east-north-eastward to
the Firth along the Liberton border, which westwards,
near Peffermill, is traced for ^ mile by the straightened
Burn of Braid ; and the I5uni of Braid, or Figgate, or
Jordan (its aliases are many), thereafter Hows 2^ miles
north-eastward to the Firth at the Is W end of Porto-
bello, through Duildiiigston Park and the wooded dell
of Duddingston Mills. Reed-fringed Duddingston Loch,
580 yards long, and from 70 to 2G7 yards wide, was
cleared of its weeds, and thereby greatly improved, in
the summer of 1881. It is truly a beautiful little sheet
380
DUDDINGSTON
of water, in summer with its swans and waterfowl, in
winter with its crowds of skaters and curlers, and
always with the church, the boathouse tower, and the
bold Hangman's Craig. The coast-line is low, though
rocky to the E, whose boulder-clay mussel-beds gave
name to Musselburgh ; and the shore is fringed with a
terrace or raised sea-beach that marks the former margin
of the Firth. Inland the surface is gently undulating
but nowhere hilly, attaining its highest point (300
feet) at the eastern shoulder of Dunsajjie Rock, and
everywhere so dominated by Arthur's Seat (822 feet) as
to look flatter than it really is. The rocks are mainly
carboniferous, in the W belonging to the Calciferous
Sandstone series, next to the Carboniferous Limestone
series, and to the coal-measures in the furthest E, and
jielding coal, sandstone, limestone, and brick clay.
The soil is loamy, resting on strong clay, towards the
SE ; light and sandy along the coast ; and elsewhere a
brownish earth of no gi'eat natural fertility. Less than
two centuries since the entire parish was an unreclaimed
moor, covered with sand, and diversified only by the
stunted growth of the Figgate AVhins, that forest where
Wallace is said to have mustered his forces for the siege
of Berwick, and Gibson of Durie to have been pounced
upon by Christie's Will.* But about 1688, the ONATier of
Prestonfield, Sir James Dick, became Lord Provost of
Edinburgh ; and, better acquainted than his contempo-
raries with the fertilising powers of city manure, availed
himself of ready and thankful permission to enrich there-
with the sterile soil of his estate. So successful were his
policy and example that, arid and worthless as Dudding-
ston had been, it ranks now among the most highly-
rented land in the United Kingdom, with its lush grass-
meadows and steam-tilled cornfields. In 1745, James
Hamilton, eighth Earl of Abercorn (1712-89), bought
from the Duke of Argyll the barony of Duddingston,
and here, in 1768, built Duddingston House, a Grecian
pile designed by Sir William Chambers, which cost,
with its pleasure-grounds, £30,000, and now stands in a
finely-wooded park. His descendant and namesake, the
first Duke and tenth Earl of Abercorn (b. 1811 ; sue.
1818), holds 1500 acres in Midlothian, valued at £7400
jier annum. Prestonfield is the other chief mansion ;
and 4 proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 52 of between £100 and £500, 125 of from
£50 to £100, and 130 of from £20 to £50. The Fish-
wives' Causey, an obscure by-road near Portobello
brickworks, is an undoubted fragment of the Roman
road between Inveresk and Cramond ; and over Burdie-
house Burn, leading up to Brunstane House, is a
beautiful old bridge, Roman so-called ; whilst from the
bed or shores of Duddingston Loch bronze implements
have been dredged or dug up in such numbers as to
suggest that in the Age of Bronze an extensive manufac-
ture of weapons must have been carried on at its margin.
In Duddingston died Sir John Hay (lCOO-54), a senator of
the College of Justice ; in Duddingston was educated
William Smellie (1740-95), the }irinter-naturalist ; and
in Duddingston, son of a farmer at Clearburn, was born
the Rev. Thomas Gillespie (1708-74), founder of the
Relief body. But the name associated most closely with
the parish is that of the great landscape painter, its
minister from 1805, the Rev. John Thomson (1778-
1840) — 'Thomson of Duddinston, heavy and strong,'
as Dr John Brown calls him — who at the manse here
was visited by Sir Walter Scott, John Clerk of Eldin,
Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, Turner, Wilkie, etc. In the
presbytery of Edinburgh and synod of Lothian and
Tweeddale, this parish is divided ecclesiastically into
Portobello and Duddingston, the latter a living wortli
£440. The church, with chancel, nave, N transept,
low square tower, 350 sittings, and organ, dates from
the Korman era of church architecture, and under
William the Lyon (1166-1214) was acquired by the
mouks of Kelso Abbej'. It has been grievously knocked
about and added to at various periods, a window of the
transept bearing date 1621, but it still retains a
* Falsely, since the seizure took j)lace near liis own seat in Fifo
(Hill Uurton, Hint. 6c(/(., vi. 17, cd. 1S70). See DiRii:.
DUDDINGSTON, EASTER
beautiful chancel arch and S doorway of Romanesque
workmanship ; and at tlie churchyard gate the old
' loupin'-on-stane ' is still to be seen, with the iron jougs
hanging beside. The public school, with accommoda-
tion for 147 children, had (18S0) an average attendance
of 57, and a grant of £40, 14s. Valuation (1SS2)
£14,450, exclusive of Portobello, but including £2604
for railways. Pop. (1801) 1003, (1831) 3862, (1861)
5159, (1871) 6369, (1881) 7815, of whom 1124 were in
Duddingston ecclesiastical parish. — Ord. Siir. sh. 32,
1857. See J. W. Small's Leaves from my Skctch-Books
(Edinb. ISSO).
Duddingston, Easter, a village in Duddingston
parish, Midlothian, 1:| mile ESE of Portobello station.
Dudhope. See Duxdee.
Dudwick, an estate in Ellon parish, Aberdeenshire,
4 mik\s XXE of Ellon village. The semi-castellated
mansion on it was the seat of General James King
(1589-1652), the Swedish veteran, who, by Charles I.,
was created Lord Eythin or Ythan in 1642. Having
long been a farmhouse, it was demolished within the last
twenty years. Dudwick Hill (572 feet) is one of the
highest points in Buchan.
Duflf House, a seat of the Earl of Fife iu Banff parish,
Banffshire, near the middle of an extensive plain, on
the left bank of the river Deveron, 3 furlongs S by E of
the town of Banff. Built in 1740-45 by "WiUiam Lord
Braco, after designs by the elder Adam, at a cost of
£70,000, it is a large quadrangular four-storied edifice,
in the Roman style, with balustrades and domical tower-
like projections at the four angles, and is adorned ex-
ternally with statues and vases. Two wings, that would
have given it an oblong shape, were never added.
Within is a fine collection of paintings, comprising
portraits of the Constable de Bourbon by Titian, of
Charles I., Henrietta Maria, Strafford, Lord Herbert,
and the Countess of Pembroke by Yan Dyck, of Mrs
Abingdon and the Duchess of Gordon by Sir Joshua
RejTiolds, of the fourth Earl of Fife by Raeburn, and
of the late Countess by Sir Francis Grant, beside pictures
by Quentin Matsys, Murillo, Cuyp, Ruysdael, Snyders,
"Wouvermans, Doraenichino, Holbein, Velasquez, etc.
The Library, 70 feet long, contains over 15,000 volumes,
and is rich in 17th century pamphlets and Spanish
works, collected mostly by James, fourth Earl (1776-
1851), during his Peninsular campaign. The whole
was reorganised and catalogued by Mr A. Robertson in
1881. The Armoury, among other relics, contains three
Andrea Ferraras, and the target and huge two-handed
sword of the freebooter M'Pherson, who was hanged at
Banff in 1701. In 1780 "William Nicol and Burns
went over Duff House, where the latter was greatly
taken with portraits of the exiled Stuarts. The finely-
wooded park, extending nearly 3 miles along the Deveron
from Banff to Alvah Bridge, comprises parts of two
counties and four parishes, and measures 14 miles in
circumference ; abounds in drives and walks of singular
beauty ; and includes the site of St Mary's Carmelite
friary, founded before 1324, which site is now occupied
by the Gothic mausoleum of the Fife family. Alex-
ander- WiUiam-George DufiF, sixth Earl Fife since 1759
(b. 1849 ; sue. 1879), holds 152,820 acres in Banff, Elgin,
and Aberdeen shires, valued at £72,813 per annum. —
Ord. Snr., sh. 96, 1876. See James Imlach's History of
Banff (Banif, 1868).
Duff-Kinnel, a rivulet in the NW of Annandale, Dum-
friesshire. It rises in Kirkpatrick-Juxta parish, and
runs about 4 miles south-eastward, chiefly along the
boundary between that parish and Johnstone, to a con-
fluence with the Kinnel, a little above Raehills.
DufiFtown, a small police burgh in Jlortlach parish,
Banffshire, 1 mile S of a station on the Great North of
Scotland railway, this being 4 miles SE of Craigellachie
Junction, 10^ SW of Keith, and 64 NW of Aberdeen.
"With Conval and Ben Rinnes to the S'W, Auchendoun
Castle to the SE, and Balvenie Castle to the N, it stands,
600 feet above sea-level, within ^ mile of the Fid-
dich's left bank ; and founded in 1817 by James Duff,
fourth Earl of Fife, it is laid out in the form of a crooked-
DUFFUS
armed cross, with a square and a tower in the centre
At it are a post office, ^vith money order, savings' bank,
and railway telegraph departments, branches of the
North of Scotland and the Aliordeen Town and County
Banks (the latter rebuilt in 1880), 7 insurance agencies,
an hotel, a distiller}^, and limeworks. Cattle fairs are
held on the third Thursday of May and September, and
the fourth Thursday of all the other ten months ; feeing
fairs on the "Wednesday before 26 May, the third "Wed-
nesday of July, and the "Wednesday before 22 Novem-
ber. MoRTLAcn parish church stands 3^ furlongs to
the S ; and at the village itself are a Free church, the
Roman Catholic church of Our Lady of the Assumption
(1825 ; 200 sittings), and St Michael's Episcopal church
(1880; 130 sittings), a pretty little Gothic building this.
Queen Victoria di'ove through Dufftown in the summer
of 1867. Its municipal constituency numbered 230 in
1882, when the annual value of real property was £2300.
Pop. (1841) 770, (1851) 998, (1861) 1249, (1871) 1250,
(1881) 1252.— Orf^. Sur., sh. 85, 1876.
Duffus, a vdllage and a coast parish of Elginshire. A
neat clean place, Iving 1 mile inland, the village of New
Duffus is 4i miles" E by S of Burghead station, 2 ESE
of Hopeman, and 5| NW of Elgin, under which it has
a post office. Pop. (1S61) 159, '(1871) 170, (1881) 161.
The parish, containing also the small towns and vil-
lages of BUKGHEAD, HOPEMAX, CUMMIXGSTOX, and
Roseisle, is bounded W and NW by the Moray Firth,
NE by Drainie, SE by New Spynie, and SW by
Alves. Its length, from E to W, varies between 3|
and 6^ miles ; its utmost breadth, from N to S, is 3J
miles ; and its area is 9865^ acres, of which 1 is
water, and 386f are foreshore. The coast-line, 7^
miles long, is fringed to the W, along Burghead Bay,
by low sandy links ; elsewhere, at Burghead and along
the north-western shore, it is almost everywhere rocky,
in places precipitous, to the E being pierced by some
large and remarkable caves. Inland, the flat-looking
surface attains 225 feet at Clarkly Hill, 235 near Inver-
ugie, 241 near Burnside, and 287 at Roseisle, thence
again gently declining southward and south-eastward to
only 32 feet at Bridgend and 11 at Unthank. The sea-
board, to the breadth of J mile, was once a rich culti-
vated plain ; but ha\'ing been desolated by sand drift,
in a similar manner to the Culbin Sands, was afterwards
reclaimed for either pasture or the plough, and now
presents an appearance of meagi-e fertility. The rest of
the land is all arable. No river touches the parish,
scarcely even a rivulet ; and springs are few and scanty.
Sandstone and limestone occur, and are quarried. The
soil, in the E, is a deep and fertile claj', like that of tlie
Carse of Gowrie ; in the W, is a rich black earth, oc-
casionally mixed with sand, but generally yielding first-
rate crops. So that, not from its situation, but from its
great fertility, this parish has been called the Heart of
Morayshire. Fully five-eighths of the entire area are in
tillage, about one-third is pasture, and some 350 acres
are under wood. Duffus Castle, If mile SE of the vil-
lage, was built in the time of David II., and, crowning
a mound near the NW shore of Spynie Loch, was sur-
rounded with a moat, and approached by a drawbridge ;
its walls, 5 feet in thickness, consisted of rough, cemented
stones. Belonging originally to the family of De Jloravia,
it afterwards was long the seat of the family of Suther-
land, who bore the title of Lords Duffus from 1650 till
1843 ; and it is now a picturesque ruin. An obelisk,
falsely thought to have been erected by Malcolm II. in
commemoration of a victory over the Danes under Camus,
stood till within the present century near Kaim ; and
several tumuli are on the heights at the shore, whilst
sarcophagi have been exhumed on the estate of Inverugie.
Duffus House, 3 furlongs ESE of the village, is the
seat of Sir Archibald Dunbar of Northficld, sixth Bart.
since 1698 (b. 1803 ; sue. 1847), who owns 1828 acres
in the shire, valued at £3414 per annum. Another
mansion is Inveuxigie ; and the whole parish is divided
among 27 proprietors, 7 holding each an annual value
of £500 and upwards, 1 of from £50 to £100, and 19 of
from £20 to £50. In the presbytery of Elgin and
381
DUGALSTONE
synod of Moray, this parish is divided ecclesiastically
iuto Dutfus and Hurghead, the former worth £353. Its
church is a handsome edifice of 1868, with a spire.
Four jiublic schools — Burghead, Dutlus, Hopeman, and
Roseisle — with respective accommodation for 351, 126,
362, and 38 children, had (ISSO) an average attendance
of 256, 93, 240, and 23, and grants of £204, 16s. 6d.,
£97, 15s. 6d., £198, 19s., and £29, 12s. 6d. Valuation
(18S1) £13,949, 19s. Pop. (1801) 1339, (1831) 2308,
(1861) 3308, (1871) 3716, (1881) 3985.— Ord. Sicr., sli.
95, 1876.
Dugalstone. See Dougalston.
Dugden. See Dogden.
Duich, a beautiful sea-loch in the SW corner of Ross-
shire, deflecting from the head of Loch Alsh, and striking
5i miles south-eastward along the SW side of Kintail
parish. From a width of J mile at its entrance it ex-
pands to IJ at the head ; and it takes up roads from
the coast, along its northern and southern shores, to
respectively Strathaffric and Glenshiel. Its screens con-
sist of mountains, rising right from its margin, partly
in bold acclivities, and partly in gentle undulating
ascents, clothed with verdure or variegated with rocks
and trees. Within 6 miles of its head stand Ben
Attow (3383 feet) and Scuir na Cairan (3771).
Duirinish or Durinish, a parish in the W of Skye,
Inverness-shire, containing the village of Dunvegan,
on Loch FoUart, 23i miles W by N of Portree, under
which it has a post office, with money order, savings'
bank, and telegraph departments. Extending from the
Grishinish branch of Loch Snizort on the N to Loch
Bracadale on the S, it is bounded on its E or landward
side bj' the parishes of Snizort and Bracadale ; its
length is 19, and its breadth 16, miles ; whilst its coast-
line, measured along the bays and headlands, is about
80 miles ; and its area must be fully 100 square miles.
Sea-lochs run far up into the interior, cutting it iuto an
assemblage of peninsulas ; and are flanked with grounds
rising in some places rapidly, in other places gently,
from their shores. The headlands are mostly huge lofty
masses of rocks, which rest on bases descending sheer
into deep water ; and the coast of the northern district
is a continuous alternation of vertical clifi's and low
shores, striking enough when first beheld, but wearying
the eye by its monotony. The shores and islets of
Loch Follart or Dunvegan Loch, with Dunvegan Castle
for centre-piece, form a grandly picturesque landscape ;
and the coast, from Dunvegan Head to Loch Bracadale,
consists for the most part of clifi's, very various in
height and slope, many of them lofty and almost per-
pendicular, and nearly all of such geological composition
as to present a singular striped appearance. Some
isolated pyramidal masses of rock, similar to the ' stacks'
of Caithness and Shetland, stand oS" the coast, and
figure wildly in the surrounding waters, the most strik-
ing and romantic of these being known as Macleod's
Maiden'.s. The northern district consists of Vatemisli
peninsula, and constitutes the quoad sacra parish of
Halen ; the other districts may be comprised in three —
Glendale, extending westward from a line near the head
of Dunvegan Loch ; Kilmuir, extending southward from
Dunvegan Loch to Loch Bay, and containing the parish
church ; and Arnisort, extending eastward from Kilmuir
to the boundaries with Snizort and Bracadale. The
only mountains are the Greater and Lesser Helvel or
Halivail, in the western peninsula, which, rising to an
altitude of 1700 feet above sea-level, and ascending in
regular gradient, with verdant surface, are truncated at
the top into level summits, and to seamen are familiar
as Macleod's Tables. Hills occur in two series, but are
neither very high nor in any other way conspicuous.
Numerous caverns, natural arches, and deep crevices
are in the cliffs of the coast. Issay Island is nearly
2 miles long, and has a fertile soil and a considerable
population ; but all the other islands are small and
uninhabited. The rocks are chiefly trap ; but they in-
clude beds of fossilifcrous limestone, thin strata of very
fioft .sandstone, and thin scams of liard brittle coal.
Zeolites of every variety are very plentiful ; steatite
382
DULL
aboivnds, especially about Dunvegan ; and augite and
olivine are found. The soil in a few tracts is clayey ;
and in still fewer is gravelly, in most parts being either
peat moss or a mixture of peat moss and disintegi'ated
trap. DuNVEG.vx Castle is at once the chief mansion
and antiquity. Other mansions are Vaternish, Orvost,
and Grieshernish ; and other antiquities are fifteen Dan-
ish forts, several tumuli, and a number of subterranean
hiding-iilaces. Maclcod of ilacleod is owner of half the
parish, 3 other proprietors holding each an annual value
of £500 and ujjwards, and 3 of between £100 and £500.
In the presbytery of Skye and synod of Glenelg, this
parish is divided ecclesiastically into Halen and Duir-
inish, the latter being a living worth £208. Its church,
built in 1832, contains nearly 600 sittings ; and there is
also a Free church of Duhrinish. The eight public schools
of Borreraig, Borrodale, Colbost, Dunvegan, Edinbain,
Knockbreck, Lochbeag, and Valtin Bridge, and the
Free Church school of Arnisort, with total accommoda-
tion for 923 children, had (1880) an average attendance
of 477, and grants amoimting to £413, Os. 5d. Valua-
tion (1881) £7683, 12s. Pop. (1801) 3327, (1831) 4765,
(1861) 4775, (1871) 4422, (1881) 4317.
Duirinnis or Duimish, a grassy islet (3 x IJ furl.) of
Ardchattan parish, Argyllshire, in Loch Etive, opposite
Bunawe. It contains a dwelling-house, and is con-
nected with the mainland by a stone bulwark.
Duisky, a village in Kilmallie parish, Argyllshii-e,
on the soutliern shore of Upper Loch Eil, 7 miles W
by N of Fort William.
Duke's Bowling-Green. See Argyll's Bowling-
Green.
Dulaich, Loch. See Doulas.
Dulcapon. See Dunkeld and Dowally.
Dulcie-Bridge. See Dulsie-Bridge.
Dull, a village and a parish of central Perthshire.
The village stands in the Strath of Appin, f mile from the
Tay's left bank, and 3^ miles W of Aberfeldy ; an ancient
place, but now decayed and small, it retains in its centre
a ponderous cruciform pillar, one of four that marked the
limits of the ancient sanctuary of Dull. Two of them, re-
moved to form an ornamental gateway to the house of the
local factor, have been recently placed for preser^^ation
in the old chm-ch of Weem ; the fourth has disappeared.
The parish consists of three distinct portions — the
first containing Dull village, the second containing the
greater part of Aberfeldy and also the village of
Amulree, and the third or Garrow section, which, very
much smaller than either of the others, lies 5J miles
WNW of Amulree. Its total area is 64,730 acres, of
which 1313 are water, whilst 47, 233| belong to the main
body, and 17, 496 J to the detached portions. The main
body is bounded NW and NE by Blair Athole, E by
Moulin, Logierait, and Little Dunkeld, S by detached
portions of Logierait, Weera, and Fortingal, and SW
and W by Fortingal. It has an utmost length of 13§
miles from NW to SE, viz., from the north-western
slope of Craig nan Garsean to a little beyond Loch
Ceannard ; its utmost width is 12 miles from NE
to SW, viz., from the river Garry, opposite Auld-
clune, to the confluence of Keltney Burn with
the Lyon. The said Lyon flows 1^ mile east-south-
eastward along the southern border to the Tay ;
and the Tay itself at three different points has a total
east-north-easterly course of 8| miles — 2J from the
Lyon's confluence to just above Dunacree, f mile along
the northern border of the Aberfeldy section, and 5^ miles
along the N of the Grandtully portion of the main
liody — descending during that coui'se from 280 to 210
feet above sea-level. The TuMmel winds 13 miles
eastward along the northern border and through the
northern interior, its expansion. Loch Tummcl (25 x J
mile), belonging half to Blair Athole and half to Dull ;
and the Gaury, the Tummel's aflluent, has here at two
points a total east-south-easterly course of Ih mile
between Blair Athole and Auldclune villages. Lakes,
other than Loch Tummcl, are Loch Kinardochy (3x2
furh), Loehan a' Chait (2^x3 furl.). Loch Ceannard
(5ix3furl. ), and five or sLx smaller ones dotted ovei
DULL
the interior ; Lochs DEncuLiCH (4| x 4 furi. ) and
Classic (3ixlJ furl.), partly belonging to Logierait ;
and Loch Bhaic (3x1 furl. ), of which two-thirds are in
Blair Athole. The surface sinks to about 210 feet
above sea-level along the Tay, 360 along the Tum-
mel, and 390 along the Garrv ; and the chief elevations
are Grandtully Hill (1717 feet), to the S of the Tay ;
*Beinn Eagach (2259), Tarragon Hill (2559), Weem
Hill (1638), the Rock of DuU (1557), Craig Odhar (1710),
Meall Tarruin chon (2559), Dun Coilloch (1866), the
*north-eastem shoulder (3100) of Schiehalliox, and
Craig Kynachar (1358), between the Tay and the Tum-
mel ; and, to the N of the Tummel, Meall na h-Iolaire
(1443) and *Craig nan Garsean (1566), where asterisks
mark those summits that culminate on the borders of the
parish. The Aberfeldy and Amulree portion, again,
has an utmost length from N to S of 9J miles, and a
var)'ing breadth from E to "W of f mile and 4| miles,
being bounded N by the Tay, E by Weem (detached),
Little Dunkeld, and Fowlis-AVester, S by CiiefF, and
SW and W by detached sections of Fowlis-Wester,
Monzie, Kenmore, Fortingal, and Logierait. In the S
the QuAiCH has an east-south-easterly course of 3|
miles, traversing Loch Freuchie (If mile x 3 J furl.),
which mostly belongs to this portion of DuU, other
lakes thereof being Loch Hoil (3 x 2 J furl. ), Lochs na
Craig (4x1 furl.) and Fender (2| x 2 furl.) on the
eastern border, Lochan a'Mhuilinn (IJ x § furl.), and
Loch Uaine (2^ x | furl. ). The surface sinks at Amulree
to close on 900 feet, and the chief elevations to the S of the
Quaich are *Geal Cham (2000 feet), *Beimi na Gainimh
(2367), and *MeaU nam Fuaran (2631), whilst to the N
of it rise *Creag an Loch (1760), *Meall Dubh (2021),
and Craig Forinal (1676). Lastly, the Garrow portion,
measuring 3| bj^ If miles, is bounded W and N by
Kenmore, and on the other sides by detached sections of
"Weem and Monzie. The Quaich flows 3J miles along
its northern border ; and the surface, sinking at the
north-eastern corner to 990 feet, thence rises to Garrow
Hill (2402 feet). Cam Bad an Fhraoich (2619), and
Cam nan Gahbhar (2790), all three of which culminate
upon the southern border. Mica slat«, occasionally in-
terspersed Avith quartz, granite, chlorite, and horn-
blende slate, is the predominant rock ; limestone forms
a considerable bed, and is quarried at Tomphobuil ; a
bluish building stone, similar to chlorite and talc slate,
occurs on the Aird of Appin ; and marl, in small
quantities, is found in several places. The soil, in
some parts, is a thin mould or a brownish loam, mixed
with sand ; in others, is a mixture of clay and loam ; in
others, is light and gravelly ; and in others, is of a wet
mossy nature. Between 651 and 661 St Cuthbert,
coming to a town called Dull, forsook the world, and
became a solitarj'. On the summit of Doilweme, or
Weem Hill, 1^ mile to the NE, he brought from the
hard rock a fountain of running water, erected a large
stone cross, built an oratory of wood, and hewed a bath
out of a single stone. At Dull, within seventeen years
of St Cuthbert's death in 687, Adamnan founded a
monastery, which was dedicated to himself, and to
which a very extensive territory was annexed — the
' abthanrie ' or abbacy of Dull. Embracing a large
portion of the western part of the earldom of Athole,
and containing the two thanages of Dull and Fortingal,
this was possessed in the tirst half of the 11th century
by Crinan, lay abbot of Dunkeld, and ancestor both of
the royal dynasty that terminated with Alexander III.
and of the ancient Earls of Athole (Skene's Celtic Scot-
latid, vols. ii. , iii. , 1877-80). The antiquities include a
number of forts, cairns, and standing stones, a stone
circle, and three moat-hills. Mansions, separately
noticed, are Grandtully, Foss, Moness, and Derculich ;
and the chief proprietors are the Earl of Breadalbane,
Sir Robert Menzies, and Sir Archibald Douglas-Drum-
mond-Stewart, 4 others holding each an annual value
of £500 and upwards, 6 of between £100 and £500, 3 of
from £50 to £100, and 6 of from £20 to £50. In the
presbytery of Weem and synod of Perth and Stirling,
this parish is divided ecclesiastically among Foss, Ten-
DULSIE-BRIDGE
andry, Amulree, and Dull, the last a living worth £360.
Dull parish church, a pre-Reformation edifice, consisting
of nave and chancel, and, as recently renovated, con-
taining 330 sittings, stands at the village ; it was dedi-
cated to St Adamnan, under his Celtic name of Eonan.
Other places of worship are noticed under Aberfeldy,
Amulree, Grandtully, and Tummel-Bridge. The public
schools of Didl, Foss, Grandtully, and Tummel-Bridge,
with respective accommodation for 95, 48, 75, and 38
children, had (1880) an average attendance of 44, 13, 48,
and 20, and grants of £43, Is., £26, 2s., £49, 19s., and
£35, Is. Valuation (1866) £16,754, 9s. 3d., (1882)
£19,759, 5s. Pop. of parish (1801) 4055, (1831) 4590,
(1861) 2945, (1871) 2681, (1881) 2578 ; of registration
district (1871) 677, (1881) 6lo.— Orel. Sur., shs. 55, 47,
1869.
Dullaji Water, a stream of Mortlach parish, Banflf-
shu-e, formed by the confluence of Tavat and Corry-
habbie Bums at the head of Glen Rinnes, and thence
running 5| miles north-eastAvard, till it falls into the
Fiddich, I mile E of the centre of Dufitown. All open
to the public, it contains abundance of trout, running
4 or 6 to the Vo.—Ord. Sur., sh. 85, 1876.
DuUatur, a tract of low land on the northern border
of Cumbernauld parish, Dumbartonshire, traversed by
the Forth and Clyde Canal, the line of Antoninus'
Wall, and the Edinburgh and Glasgow section of the
Xorth British railway, li mile WNW of Cumbernauld
town, and 2 miles ESE of Kilsyth. Lying almost on
a level with the canal, it was all till a recent period a
deep and spongy, almost impassable morass, immedi-
ately N of what is supposed to have been Bruce's
mustering-ground on the eve of his march to Bannock-
burn (1314), and S of the Kilsyth battle-field (1645).
At the cuttmg of the canal through it in 1769-70,
swords, pistols, and other weapons were foimd in it, sup-
posed to have been lost or thrown away in the rout
from Kilsyth ; bodies of men and horses, including a
mounted trooper completely armed, were also brought
to light ; and mA-riads of small toads, each much the
size of a nut or Turkej^ bean, issuing from it, hopped
over all the fields northward for several miles, and could
be counted from 10 to 30 iu the space of 1 square j-ard.
DuUatur YiUas here, on a plot of 164 acres, round the
old mansions of Dykehead and DuUatur, were erected in
1875-76 ; and Dullatur station, opened in the latter year,
is 12| mUes NE oi Glasgow:— Ord. Sur., sh. 31, 1867.
Dulnain, a river of Badenoch, NE Inverness-shire,
rising at an altitude of 2600 feet among the Monadh-
liath Mountains, 8 mUes AV by N of Kincraig station,
and running 28 mUes north-east-by-eastward, tUl it
faUs into the Spej at Ballintomb, 3 miles SSW of Gran-
town, after a descent of 1900 feet. It traverses the
parishes of Kingussie, Alvie, DuthO, and Cromdale, the
Inverness-shire and Elginshire portions of Cromdale
being, parted by the last 9 furlongs of its course ; and
just above its mouth it is crossed by an iron-trellised
viaduct of the Highland raUway. It has generaUy a
small volume, yet is very rapid ; and, when swollen
■with rain or melted snow, it often does much damage
to the corn lands on its banks. The tract traversed
by it in Duthil parish is called Dulnainside ; was ex-
tensively covered with a forest which was destroyed
by a fierce conflagration about the beginning of last
century ; and was, till then, a haunt of wolves. Its
waters contain good store of trout, some pike, and
occasional salmon and grilse. — Ord. Sur., sh. 74, 1877.
Dulnain-Bridgc, a hamlet in the InveraUan section of
Cromdale parish, Elginshire, with a bridge (1791) over
Dulnain river, 3 mUes SW of Grantown, imder which it
has a post oflice.
Dulsie-Bridge, a hamlet in Ardclach parish, Nairn-
shire, on the river Findhorn, 5 miles above Ardclach
church, and 12 SSE of Nairn. The river here tra-
verses a rocky and wooded gorge of singular beauty,
and is crossed by a bridge, which, carrying over Wade's
military road from Grantown to Fort George, has a
bold main arch of 46 feet iu span, with a subsidiary
smaller arch.
383
DUMBARNIE
DUMBARTON
Dumbamie. See Duxbarnie.
Dumbarrow. See Dunbauuow.
Dumbarton, a town and parish of Dumbartonshire.
A seaport, a royal and parliamentary burgh, and the
capital of the county, the town stands on the left bank
of the Leven, f mile above its influx to the Clyde, and
at the junction of the Glasf^ow & Helensburgh and
Vale of Leven sections of the North British railway, by
water being 4f miles E by N of Port Glasgow and 7J E
of Greenock, by rail 4i S of Balloch Junction, 34^
WSW of Stirling, SJ ESE of Helensburgh, 16 WNW
of Glasgow, and 63J W of Edinburgh. Its site is a low
flat plain, skirted to the W by an east-south-easterly
curve of the Leven, and screened to the E by the
Kilpatrick Hills (1313 feet), whilst south-south-east-
ward, between the town and the Clyde, stands the
castle-crowned Rock of Dumbarton. From the crescent-
shaped High Street, running 5 furlongs concentric with
and near the course of the Leven, Cross Vennel and
Church Street strike north-north-eastward to Broad-
meadow ; and a stone five-arch bridge, 300 feet long,
built towards the middle of last century, leads over the
Leven to the western suburbs, in Cardross parish, of
Bridgend and Dennystoun — the latter founded in 1853,
and named in honour of its projector, William Denny.
Within and without, Dumbarton, it must be owned,
presents an irregular and unattractive appearance, little
in keeping with its fine surroundings ; and, as seen from
the Clyde, it looks a mere aggregate of huddled houses,
chequered in front by the timbers of shipyards, and
overtopped by more chimneys than steeples. Yet few
Scotch towns have made more rapid progress than has
Dumbarton since 1852, in point of dwellers rather than
of dwellings, whence overcrowding ; but now (1882)
Messrs Denny propose to erect a new suburb for 2000
families at the eastern extremity of the town, and at the
same time to form a new graving-dock that will take in
the largest vessel afloat. Amongst the improvements
of the last thirty years are the opening of a large and
beautiful cemetery (1854) ; the embanking of Broad-
meadow (1858) ; the introduction of water from Gar-
shake Reservoir (1859) at a cost of £8500, the present
supply exceeding 15,000,000 gallons ; the taking over
of the gas-works, which date from 1832, by the Corpora-
tion (1874) ; and the adoption of the Free Libraries Act
(1881). The chief want now is a better public park or
recreation ground than marshy Broadmeadow.
The Burgh Hall and Academy, built in 1865-66 at a
cost of £7000, is a goodly edifice in the French Gothic
style of the 13th century, with a frontage of 132 feet,
and a central tower 140 feet high. The Academy, in
front, comprises four large class-rooms ; and the Hall, to
the rear, is 80 feet long, 40 wide, and 37 high, having
accommodation for nearly 1000 persons. The County
Buildings and Prison, Imilt in 1824 at a cost of over
£5000, were in 1863 enlarged by two wings and other-
wise reconstructed at a further outlay of £5170; and
the Prison now contains 31 cells. A Combination Poor-
house, with accommodation for 156 paupers and 40
lunatics, was erected at a cost of £7000 in 1865 ; an
epidemic hospital in 1874. St John's Masonic Hall
(1874-75) has accommodation for 200 persons ; the
Philosophical and Literary Society (1867) occupies the
lower portion of the Town Mission House (1873) ; and
there are also a Mechanics' Institute (1844), the Salmon
Club (1796), a curling club (1815), a bowling club (1839),
a Bums club (1859), a friendship association (1861), etc.
Dumbarton has a post office, ■with money order, savings'
bank, and telegraph departments, branches of the Com-
mercial, Clydesdale, and Union Banks, agencies of 32
insurance companies, 2 hotels, and 2 newspapers — the
Wednesday Liberal Dumbarton Herald (1851) and the
Saturday Independent Lennox Herald (1862). Tuesday
is market-day, and fairs are held on the thinl Tuesday
in March (St Patrick's) for seeds and horses, the first
Wednesday in June (Carman) for cattle and horses, and
the second Wednesday in August (Lammas) for cattle
and hay.
Extensive glass and chemical works, established in
384
1777, and employing 300 men, were closed about two
years after the death in 1831 of Provost Dixon and his
son, then for a time reopened, and finally discontinued
in 1850, when their three prominent brick cones were
taken do\\"n. The stoppage of these works seemed
likely to deal a great blow to Dumbarton's well-being ;
but their place has been more than supplied by ship-
building, which now employs upwards of 4000 hands.
The two great shipbuilding firms are those of Messrs
M'Millan (1834) and Messrs Wm. Denny & Bros. (1844).
From the yard of the former firm, which covers 5 acres,
198 vessels of 116,348 tons were launched during 1845-
76. Messrs Denny removed in 1857 from the Wood
Yard, on the Cardross side, to the Leven Shipyard, on
the Dumbarton side, which, covering 15 acres, has six
landing berths, each of 3000 tons capacity ; and they
during 1844-76 turned out 192 vessels of 234,358 tons.
Two lesser, but still large, shipyards have been opened
since 1871 ; and the total output was 14,000 tons in
1872, 18,400 in 1873, 32,000 in 1874, 33,000 in 1875,
17,500 in 1876, 28,500 in 1877, 41,557 in 1878, 33,230
in 1879, 34,036 in 1880, and 26,296 in 1881. Dum-
barton's first iron steamer was launched in 1844, its
first screw in 1845, and its first steel steamer in 1879 :
whilst among the more notable vessels built here are
the Peter Stuart (1867) of 1490 tons, the largest iron
sailing ship till then constructed in any Scottish port ;
the Stuart Hahnemann do. (1874) of 2056 tons; and
the Piavcnna Peninsular and Oriental steam-liner (1880)
of 3448 tons. The other industrial establishments of
Dumbarton comprise Denny & Co.'s engineering works
(1851); Paul & Co.'s engine and boiler works (1847);
Ure & Co.'s iron foundry (1835) ; the Dennystoun
Forge (1854), with a 5-ton double-acting Nasmyth steam-
hammer ; 3 saw-mills ; a rope and sail yard ; brass-
founding, boat-building, and ship-painting works, etc.
In 1658 the magistrates of Glasgow made overtures to
their brethren of Dumbarton for the purchase of ground
for an extensive harbour, which the latter rejected on
the ground that ' the influx of mariners would tend to
raise the price of butter and eggs to the inhabitants.'
Port Glasgow was thereupon founded, and Dumbarton
thus lost the chance of becoming a seaport second to
few in the world. Down to 1700 the burgh retained its
chartered privilege of levying customs and dues on all
ships navigating the Clyde between the mouth of the
Kelvin and the head of Loch Long, but in that year it
sold this privilege to Glasgow for 4500 merks, or £260
sterling. This and the deepening of the Clyde to
Glasgow have done much to lower Dumbarton's com-
mercial prestige, and it now ranks merely as a sub-port.
Nor are its harbour accommodations great, the improve-
ments carried on since 1852 — such as the deepening of
the Leven's channel — having generally had less regard
to shipping than to shipbuilding. An excellent quay,
however, and a capacious dock have been constructed,
mainly at the expense of the late James Lang ; and in
1874-75 a splendid pier of pitch pine was built at a cost
of £8000. Extending from the Castle Rock into the
Clyde, it consists of gangway (640 x 15 feet) and pier-
head (90 X 25 feet), the river's depth at the extremity
of the pier-head being 10 feet at low water, so that
steamers can touch at any state of the tide.
St Patrick's collegiate church, founded in 1450 by
Isabella, Duchess of Albany, at the end of Broadmeadow,
fell into disuse at the Reformation, and now is repre-
sented by a single tower arch, removed to Church
Street in 1850 to make room for the railway station.
The old parish church, at the foot of High Street, a
quaint, begalleried, cruciform structure, with western
spire, was built about 1565, and demolished in 1810.
Its successor, completed in 1811 at a cost of £6000, is a
handsome edifice, with spire and clock, 1500 sittings,
and three stained-glass windows, two of them geomet-
rical designs, and tlie third (1876) depicting Christ's
Sermon on the Mount. A second Established church is
now (1882) about to be built in the town ; and on the
Cardross side is Dalreoch quoad sacra church (1873 ;
cost £2000 ; 620 sittings). Free churches are the North
DUMBARTON
(1844 ; rebuilt 1877) and the High (1864 ; cost £5000 ;
850 sittings), a fine Gothic building, -ivith a spire of 140
feet. The U.P. church of West Bridgend (1861) has a
good organ ; another in High Street (182(5) was enlarged
and decorated in 1874 at a cost of nearly £2700. Other
places of worship are a Wesleyan Methodist chapel
(1862), a Baptist chapel (1876), a new Evangelical
Union chapel (1882), St Patrick's Roman Catholic
church (1830 ; 500 sittings), and St Augustine's Epis-
copal church (1872-73 ; 650 sittings), an Early Geometric
Pointed edifice, with nave, side-aisles, lofty clerestory,
chancel, and ' sticket ' steeple, whose cost, inclusive of
a parsonage, came to close on £9000, and which has all
but superseded the smaller St Luke's (1856). The
Academy, College Street public, West Bridgend public,
an Episcopal, and a Roman Catholic school, ^\ith re-
spective accommodation for 826, 371, 530, 361, and 373
children, had (1880) an average attendance of 485, 533,
314, 221, and 262, and grants of £527, 19s. 6d.,
£398, 5s. 6d., £271, 14s., £220, 2s. 6d., aud_£177, lis.
Aproiws of the schools, the famous novelist, Tobias
Smollett (1721-74) here learned the 'rudiments' under
Buchanan's vindicator, John Love (1695-1750), who
was a native of Dumbarton, as also were the judge. Sir
James Smollett of Bonuill (1648-1731), its member for
twenty-one years, and Patrick Colquhoun, LL.D. (1745-
1820), the well-known statist and metropolitan magis-
trate. One of its ministers was the Rev. James Oliphant
(1734-1818), the 'Auld Light professor' of Burus's
Ordination.
Constituted a free royal burgh by Alexander IL in
1222, Dumbarton received fresh charters from several of
his successors, all
of which were con-
firmed in 1609 by
James YL It now
is governed by a
provost, a toAvn-
clerk, 3 bailies, a
treasurer, a dean of
guild, a master of
works, and 8 coun-
cillors. The Gene-
ral Police and Im-
provement Act
(Scotland) of 1850
was adopted in
1854, and the
magistrates and
town council are
commissioners of police. An Act was obtained by the
magistrates and town council in 1872, empowering
them to purchase the old and to erect new gas-works,
to improve the water- works, to erect the new pier, and
to construct tramways to Alexandria. The police force
in 1881 comprised 9 men ; and the salary of the
superintendent is £150. The sheriff county court is
held every Tuesday and Friday during session ; the
debts recovery court every Friday ; the sheriff's ordin-
ary small debt court every Tuesday during session,
and occasionally during vacation ; and quarter sessions
are on the first Tuesday of March, May, and August,
and the last Tuesday of October. Dumbarton, along
■with Kilmarnock, Renfrew, Rutherglen, and Port
Glasgow, returns one member to parliament, its muni-
cipal and parliamentary constituency numbering 1758
in 1882. The annual value of real pi'opcrty within the
parliamentary burgh was £15,004 in 1856, £37,532 in
1875, and £45,898 in 1881-82, when the corporation
revenue was £1048, and the harbour revenue £1339 (in
1866, £738). Pop. of royal burgh (1801) 2541, (1811)
3121, (1821) 3481, (1831) 3623, (1841) 4391, (1851)
4590, (1861) 6090 ; of pari, burgh (1851) 5445, (1861)
8253, (1871) 11,404, (1881) 13,782, of whom 3482 were
in Cardross parish. Houses (1831) 2478 inhabited,
40 vacant, 51 building.
The Castle of Dumbarton is situated on an acute
peninsula at the left side of the Leven's influx to the
Clyde, and consists partly of a mass of rock, partly of
25
Seal of Dumbarton.
DUMBARTON
superincumbent buildings. The rock appears to over-
hang both rivers — huge, mural, weather-worn — for
several hundred yards down to their point of confluence.
It culminates at 240 feet above sea-level, measures
1 mile in circumference, and figures picturesquely in
most of the views of the upper waters of the Firth of
Clyde. The rock is of basalt, like Ailsa Craig, the Bass,
Stirling Castle Rock, and other single, sharply-outlined
heights, that start abruptly from sea or plain. It rises
sheer from the low circumjacent level, and stands by
itself, without any hills near it. The basalt tends to
the prismatic form, being slightly columnar, and in
places magnetic ; and is all the more curious for pro-
truding through beds of sandstone, nearly a mile distant
from any other eruptive formation. The rock towards
the summit is cloven by a narrow deep chasm into a
double peak, and presents its cloven sides to S and N.
The western peak is 30 feet higher than the eastern, but
not so broad, and bears the name of Wallace's Seat.
The buildings on the rock have difl"ered in extent and
form at different times, and do not seem to have ever
had any high architectural merit. The entrance, in
old times and till a recent period, was on the N side,
by a gradually ascending footpath, through a series of
gates, which now might be interesting antiquities had
the}' not been sold for old iron. The present entrance
is on the S side, through a gateway in a rampart, whence
a long flight of steps leads to a battery and the governor's
house — a modern white building utterly out of keeping
with the character of the place, and used now as the
quarter of the married men of the Coast Brigade stationed
here. A second, narrower flight leads from the gover-
nor's house to the cleft between the two summits, and
at one point is overarched by a small structure, alleged
to have been the prison of Wallace, but clearly much
later than Wallace's day. The barracks, the armoury,
the Duke of York's battery, and the water tank stand
in the cleft of the rock, and a steep winding staii- con-
ducts thence to the top of the western summit, which is
surmounted by a flagstafl", and retains vestiges of a
small circular building, variously pronounced a wind-
mill, a Roman fort, and a Roman pharos. The barracks
contain accommodation for only 150 men, and the
armoury has lost its 1500 stand of arms since the Crimean
war ; while the batteries, though capable of mounting
16 guns, would be of little avail for clefensive purposes,
and at best could only serve to rake the channel of the
Clyde. The castle, too, can be fully commanded by
artillery from the brow of Dumbuck (547 feet), 1 mile
to the E, so that ever since the invention of gunpowder
it has been rendered unavailable for its original purposes,
but it is maintained as a national fortress, in terms of
the Articles of Union. Nor is it undeserving of good
maintenance, for, besides forming a noble feature in a
most noble landscape, it commands from its western
summit three distant prospects — each difterent, and
each of singular beauty. The first up the Clyde towards
Glasgow — Dunglass Castle on its promontory, Erskine
House opposite, with boats, ships, wooded hills, and
many buildings ; the second down the broadening estu-
ary — Port Glasgow and Greenock, and the mountains
that guard the entrance of Loch Long ; and the third
up the Yale of Leven, away to the dusky summits of
Loch Lomond. ' If the grand outline of any one of the
views can be seen, it is sufficient recompense for the
trouble of climbing the Rock of Dumbarton. ' So thought
Dorothy Wordsworth, who, with her brother and Cole-
ridge, made that climb, on 24 Aug. 1803 (p]). 57-62 of
her Tovr in Scotland, ed. by Princ. Shairp, 1874).
Dumbarton has been identified with the Roman naval
station 2'hcodosia, with Ossian's Balclutlut ( ' town on the
Clyde '), and with Urbs LcgionU (' city of the legion '),
the scene of Arthur's ninth battle against the heathen
Saxons in the beginning of the 6th century. The third
identification slightly confirms the first, and itself is
strengthened by the town's title of Castrum Arthuri
in a record of David II. (1367) ; of the second we are
told that, whilst Ossian says of Balclutha, ' The thistle
shakes there its lovely head,' the true Scotch thistle,
385
DUMBARTON
though really rare in Scotland, does still grow wild on
Dumbarton Rock. On this rock (in alto mantis Ihin-
hrdcn) the legend of St Monenna, who died in 519,
records that, consecrated a virgin hy St Patrick, she
founded one of her seven Scotch churches. Be this as
it may, from the battle of Ardderyd (573) we find the
Cumbrian British kingdom of Strathclyde comprising
the present counties of Cumberland, Westmoreland,
Dumfries, Ayr, Lanark, Peebles, Renfrew, and Dum-
barton ; its northern half occupied by the Damnonii,
belonging to the Cornish variety of the British race ; its
first king Rhydderch Hael, Columba's and Kentigern's
friend ; and its cajtital the strongly fortified rock on the
Clyde's right bank, termed by the Briton's Alduith
('height on the Clyde'), and by the Gadhelic people
iJnnhrcatan {' fort of the Britons'). By the victory in
654 of Osuiu or Osway of Northumbria over Penda of
Mercia, the ally of these Britons, the latter became Osuiu's
tributaries ; but Ecgfrid's crushing defeat at Dunnichen
in 685 restored them to iull independence. This lasted
Ao\\n to 756, when a Northumbrian and Pictish army
under Eadberct and Angus mac Fergus pressed so hard
upon Alclyde, that the place was surrendered after a
four months' siege ; and four years later we hear of the
burning of its fortress, 'which,' says Hill Burton, ' was
probably, after the fashion of that day, a large collec-
tion of wooden houses, protected by the height of the
rock on which it stood, and, whei'e necessary, by em-
bankments.' In 870 Alclyde sustained a second four
months' siege, this time by the Vikings, under Olaf the
White, Norwegian King of Dublin, who reduced its
defenders by famine. Before which siege, with the dis-
organisation of Northurabria, the whole of the British
territory from the Clyde to the Derwent had once more
become united under its line of independent kings,
claiming Roman descent, the last of whom, Donald,
died in 908. Thereon the Britons elected Donald,
brother to Constantin, King of Alban ; and thus Alclyde
became dependent on Alban, till in 1018 its sub-king
Owen or Eugenius the Bald was succeeded by Duncan,
]\Ialcolm II. 's grandson — the 'gracious Duncan' of
Macbeth. Malcolm dying in 1034, Duncan succeeded
him as King of Scotia, in which Strathclyde thenceforth
becomes absorbed. In 1175 the northern portion of the
old Cumbrian kingdom, nearly represented by Dumbar-
tonshire, was formed by William the Lyon into the
earldom of Levenach or Lexnox, and conferred on his
brother David. By 1193 this earldom had come into
possession of Aluin, the first of a line of Celtic earls,
who, down to their extinction in 1425, frequently figure
in Dumbarton's history, but who only retained the
castle till 1238, from which year onward it was always
a ro}-al fortress. As such, during the competition for
the Scottish crown (1292), it was delivered up to Edward
I. of England, who gave it over to Baliol, on the ad-
judication in his favour; but from 1296 to 1309 it was
held again by the English, with Sir Alexander Wouteith
for governor. He it was who on 5 Aug. 1305 took
Wallace captive at Glasgow, so that likely enough the
'ubiquitous troglodyte ' was really fur a week a prisoner
here, where (as elsewhere) his huge two-handed sword is
preserved in the armoury, along with old Lochaber
axes and skene-dhus 'from Bannockburn,' flint pistols,
rude pikes, and tattered regimental colours. In 1313,
according to our least veracious chroniclers, Bruce,
almost single-handed, achieved the cajiture of Dumbar-
ton Castle. A sort of Guy Fawkes and Bluebeard episode
this, with keys and a cellar figuring largely therein —
the cellar first full of armed English soldiery, who are
overawed by the Monarch, and the traitor Monteith
next led to it in fetters, but presently pardoned by the
magnanimous Hero. Anyhow, by Bruce the castle was
committed to tlie governorshi]) of Sir Malcolm Fleming
of Cumbernauld, whose son was one of the few that
escaped from Halidon Hill (1333), when Dumbarton
became the rallying-point of the remnant adhering to
the boy-king, David II. Sir Roliert de Erskine was
next appointed governor (1357), and after him Sir John
de Dennistoun or Danielstoim. He was succeeded by
386
DUMBARTON
his son, Sir Robert, on whose death in 1399 Walter,
his brother, the parson of Kincardine O'Neil, forcibly
seized the castle, as belonging heritably to his family.
He held it till 1402, surrendering it then in the hope of
obtaining the vacant see of St Andrews — a hope cut
short by his death before the end of the year. In 1425
James Stewart, son of the late Regent Albany, and
grandson of the eighth and last Celtic Earl of Lennox,
assaulted and burned the town of Dumbarton, and
murdered the king's imcle. Sir John Stewart, who held
the castle with only thirty-two men. Dumbarton was
next besieged in 1481 by the fleet of Edward IV., but
was bravely and successfully defended by Sir Andrew
Wood of Largo. For the next half century the hisrory
of Dumbarton is virtually that of the Stewart Earls
of Lennox. Their founder, John, having taken up
arms against James IV. , the castle was twice besieged
in 1489 — first by the Earl of Argyll without success,
and then by the young king himself, who after a six
weeks' leaguer compelled the four sons of Lennox to
capitulate. The surprise of the castle one stormy night
by John, third Earl (1514), the landing here of Albany
from France (1515), the establishment of a French
garrison (1516), the interception of a large French sub-
sidy (1543) by Matthew, Iburth Earl, Lord Darnley's
father, and his design of betraying the fortress to Eng-
land (1544) — these are events that can merely be glanced
at in passing. On 7 Aug. 1548 Queen Mary, then
six years old, embarked at Dumbarton for France ; in
July 1563 she paid a second visit to the castle ; and
hither her army was marching from Hamilton when its
progress was barred at Langside, 13 May 1568. For
nearly three years the castle held out for her under its
governor, John, fifth Lord Fleming ; and the story of
how it was taken by escalade on the night of 1 April
1571 deserves to be told -n-ith some fulness. Captain
Thomas Craufurd of Jordanhill, to whom the attack
was entrusted, had long been attached to the house of
Lennox. He it was whose evidence was so important
regarding the death of Darnley, and who afterwards
accused Lethington as one of the murderers, since which
time he appears to have resumed the profession of arms.
In the enterprise he was assisted by Cunningham, com-
monly called the Laird of Drumwhassel, one of the
bravest and most skilful ofiicers of his time, and he had
been fortunate in bribing the assistance of a man named
Robertson, who, having once been warden in the castle,
knew every crag of the rock, 'where it was best to climb,
and where fewest ladders would serve.' With him and
a hundred picked men Craufurd set out from Glasgow
after sunset. He had sent before him a few light horse
to prevent intelligence by stopping all wayfarers, and
about midnight he arrived at Dumbuck, within a mile
of the castle, where he was joined by Drumwhassel and
Captain Hume. Here he explained to the soldiers the
hazardous service on which they were engaged, pro-
vided them with ropes and scaling ladders, and,
advancing c^iuckly and noiselesslj'^, reached the rock,
whose summit was fortunately wrapped in a heavy fog,
whilst the bottom was clear. But, on the first attempt,
all M-as likely to be lost. The ladders lost their hold
while the soldiers were on them ; and had the garrison
been on the alert, the noise must have inevitably be-
trayed them. They listened, however, and all was still.
Again the ladders were fixed, and, their ' craws ' or
steel hooks this time catching firmly in the crevices, the
leaders gained a small out-jutting ledge, Mhere an ash
tree had struck its roots. Fixing the ropes to its
branches, they speedily towed up the rest of their
comrades. They Avere still, however, fourscore fathoms
from the wall. They had reached but the middle of the
rock, day was breaking, and when, for the second time,
they planted their ladders, a singular impediment
occurred. One of the soldiers in ascending was seized
with a fit, in which he convulsively grasped the stejis so
firmly, that no one could either pass him or unloose his
hold. But Craufurd's presence of mind suggested a
ready expedient ; he tied him to the ladder and turned
it round, so the passage was once more free. They were
DUMBARTON
now at the bottom of the wall, where the footing was
narrow and precarious ; but once more fixing their
ladders in the copestone, Alexander Kamsav, Craufurd's
ensign, and two other soldiers, stole up, and though at
once discovered by a sentinel, leapt down and slew him,
sustaining the attack of three of the guard tiU they were
joined by Craufurd and the rest. Their weight and
struggles to surmount it brought the wall down with a
run, and afforded an open breach, through which they
rushed in shouting, 'A Damley, a Damley!' Craufurd's
watchword, given evidently from affection to his hapless
master, the murdered king. According to Dr Hill
Burton, the point thus gained was the top of the
western peak, the ascent being made to the left of the
present entrance ; and from this vantage-ground the
assailants now turned the cannon on the garrison, who,
panic-struck, attempted no resistance. Fleming, the
governor, from long familiarity with the rock, managed
to escape down the face of an almost perpeu'iicular
gully, and, passing through a postern which opened upon
the Clyde, threw himself into a fishing-boat, and so
passed over to Argyllshire. In this achievement the
assailants lost not a man, and of the garrison only four
were slain. In the castle were taken prisoner .John
Hamilton, Archbishop of St Andrews, who was fotmd
with mail shirt and steel cap on, Yerac, the French
ambassador, Fleming of Boghall, and John Hall, an
English gentleman, who had fled to Scotland after
Dacre's rebellion. Lady Fleming, the wife of the
governor, was also taken, and treated by the Eegent
courteously, being suffered to go free, and carry off with
her her plate and furniture. But Hamilton, the primate,
was instantly brought to trial for the murder of Damley
and Moray, condemned, and hanged and cjuartered
without delay.
In 1581, as a signal and crowning favour, Esme
Stewart, the new-made Duke of Lennox, received the
governorship of Dumbarton Castle, one of the three
great national fortresses ; in 16-39 it was seized on a
Simday by the Covenanters, its captain, 'a vigilant
gentleman,' attending church with so many of the
garrison that, they being taken on their homeward way,
the place was defenceless. It was, however, recaptured
by the Royalists, to be lost again on 28 Aug. of the
following year. Thereafter the castle drops quietly out
of history, a visit from Queen Yictoria on 7 Aug. 1847
being all that remains to be noticed. Sot of the town
is there anything worthier of record than the injury
done it by floods of the Leven in 133i, and again in the
early years of the 17th century, when the magistrates
felt obliged to apply to parliament for aid in construct-
ing bulwarks. A commission of 1607 reported that ' na
less nor the sowme of threttie thousand poundis Scottis
money was abUl to befr out and fumeis the necessar
charges and expenses in pforming these warkis that are
liable to saif the said burgh from utter destructioune. '
A grant of 25,000 merks Scots was accordingly made for
the ptirpose by parliament ; and, this proving insuffi-
cient, a farther sum of 12,000 was afterwards granted by
King James. In 1675 Dumbarton gave the title of
Earl in the peerage of Scotland to George, third son of
the first Marquis of Douglas, but this peerage became
extinct at the death of his son about the middle of the
18th century.
The parish of Dumbarton is bounded ^ W by Bonhill ;
X by Kilmaronock ; NE by Drymen and Killeam in
Stirlingshire ; SE by Old Kilpatrick ; S, for 3 furlongs,
by the river Clyde, which separates it from Eenfrewshire ;
and "W by the river Leven, dividing it from Cardross.
Its utmost length, from XE to SW, is 6J miles ; its
breadth, from E to "W, varies between 1^ furlong and
5f miles ; and its area is 8563 acres, of which 9S| are
foreshore and 174 water. The Letxx winds 4| miles
southward along all the western border, and is joined
from the interior by Murroch Bum ; whilst Overton
Bum, tracing much of the south-eastern boundary, and
itself joined by Black Bum, flows direct to the Clyde.
The southern and western districts, to the mean distance
of 1^ mile from the Leven, present no striking natural
DUMBAETONSHIEE
feature except the Castle Ro<;k, in whose vicinity they
lie so little above sea -level as to be sometimes flooded
by spring rides. From this low valley the surface rises
north-eastward to Auchenreoch and Dumbarton Muirs,
attaining S95 feet at Enockshanoch, 1228 at Doughnot
HUl, Ills at Knockupple, and 892 at Knockvadie.
Limestone abounds at Munoch Glen, 24 miles XXE
of the town ; red sandstone is quarried on the moors ;
and an excellent white sandstone occurs at Dalieoch,
in Cardross parish. The soil — in a few fields a rich
alluvium — in some of the arable tracts is very clayey, in
others gravelly, and in most somewhat shallow, yet
generally fertile ; whilst that of the moors is sparse,
and of little value. Strath LE\rEy, on the river Leven
opposite Eenton, is the chief mansion. Dumbarton is
seat of a presbytery in the Synod of Glasgow and Ayr ;
the living is worth £202. Yaluation of landward portion
(1882; £5108, 5s. Pop. of entire parish (1801) 2541,
(1831) 362-3, (1861) 6304, (1871) 8933, (1881) 10,837, of
whom 538 were in the landward portion. — Ord. Sur.,
sh. 30, 1866.
The jjresbytery of Dumbarton comprises the old
parishes of Arrochar, Baldemock, Balfron, Bonhill,
Buchanan, Cardross, Drymen, Dumbarton, Fintry, Kil-
leam, Kilinaronock, New Kilpatrick, Old Kilpatrick,
Luss, Roseneath, Row, and Strathblane ; the quoad
sacra parishes of Alexandria, Clydebank, Craigrownie,
Dalxeoch, Garelochhead, Helensburgh, Jamestown,
ililngavie, and Renton ; and the chapelries of Dtm-
tocher, Helensburgh -West, and Kilcresgan. Pop.
(1871) 56,216, (1881) 70,081, of whom 8971 were com-
mtmicants of the Church of Scotland in 1873. — The
Free Church also has a presbytery of Dumbarton, with
2 churches at Dumbarton, 2 at Helensburgh, 3 at
Renton, and 14 at respectively Alexandria, Arrochar,
Baldemock, Bonhill, Bowling, Cardross, Duntocher,
(rarelochhead, Killeam, Luss, Old Kiljjatrick, Rose-
neath, Shandon, and Strathblane, which 21 chnrches
together had 4262 members in ISSl.
See, besides works cited under DrMBAETOxsHiEE,
John Glen's Si-story of the Toicn and Castle of Dumbar-
ton (Dumb. 1847) ; WiUiam Eraser's The Lennox (2 vols.,
Edinb., 1874) ; and Donald Macleod's Castle and Toxcn
of Du/nharton (Dumb. 1S77'.
Dumbarton and Helensburgh Railway. See Kobth
Beitish Railway.
DTimbart;onshire, a county, partly maritime, but chiefly
inland, in the W of Scotland, comprising a main body
and a detached district. The main body is bounded
N by Perthshire, E by Stirlingshire, SE by Lanark-
shire, S by the river Clyde and the upper Firth of Clyde,
which divide it from Renfrewshire, and YT by Argyll-
shire. Its eastern boundary, fix)m Island Yow, above
Inversnaid, to the mouth of Endrick Water, runs along
the mid'lle of Loch Lomond : thence, to the mouth of
Catter Bum, is trac-ed by En^irick Water ; and, in the
extreme SE, for 3 miles above Maryhill, is traced
by the river Kelvin. Its western boundary, exc-ept
for 9i miles in the extreme X, is all formed by
Loch Long. Its outline bears some resemblance to that
of a crescent with the convexity towards the NK Its
length, from X to S, varies between 4| and 24| nules,
its breadth, from E to W, between IJ and 18i miles.
The detached district, commencing 4J miles E by X of
the nearest point of the main body, and 5 XXE of
Glasgow, comprises the parishes of Kirkintilloch and
Cumbernauld ; is bounded X and E by Stirlingshire, S
and W by Lanarkshire ; and meastires 12f miles in
maximtun" length from W by S to E by X, and 4 in
maximum breadth- The area of the entire county is
270 square miles or 172,677 acres, of which 3814 are
foreshore and 14,312i water, whilst 19,030 belong to the
detached district.
All the northem or Aerochae district of the county,
lying partly aroimd the head of Loch Lomond, partly
between that lake and Loch Long, is a group of moon-
tains, intersected bv deep glens^ Cidminating in Ben
Yorlich (3092 feet) and Ben Yane (3004), it displays all
the most characteristic features of grand, romantic,
3£7
DUMBARTONSHIRE
DUMBARTONSHIRE
beautiful Highland scener)'. The central part from
Finnart and the middle of Locli Lomond to the hill-
screens of the Firth of Clyde, but including the penin-
sula of Roseneath, is a region varying between the
highland and lowland, and exquisitely blends many a
feature of sternness and wildness with many of the sweet-
est loveliness. The lofty hills of Arrochar and Luss,
in particular, contrast most strikingly with tlie wide ex-
panse of the pellucid waves of the queen of lakes, far-
famed Loch Lomond. ' Here savage grandeur, in all
the towering superiority of uncultivated nature, is seen
side by side with the very emblem of peace and tran-
quillity, an alpine lake, which the winds reach only
b}' stealth.' The southern district, comprising the
seaboard of the Clyde, the Vale of Leven, and the tract
eastward of that vale to the extremity of the main body
of the countj', is generally lowland and rich almost to
excess with gentle contour and tasteful oruamentation ;
yet even this is diversified — to some extent broadly
occupied — with characters of abruptness and boldness,
shown in the shoulders of tlie Cardross hills, in the mass
of Dumbarton Rock, in the brows of Dumbuck and of
basaltic ranges northward of it, and in the capriciously
escarped, romantic acclivities of the Kilpatriek Hills,
which, extending 54 miles from E to W, and attaining
a maximum altitude of 1313 feet in Duncomb and F}ti-
loch, contain many rich close scenes, and command
some of the finest and most extensive views in Scotland.
The detached district is all lowland, and of tame appear-
ance, nowhere exceeding 480 feet above sea-level, yet
extends so near the roots of the Campsie Fells as to
borrow effects of scenery similar to those which the
tracts along the Clyde borrow from the Kilpatriek Hills.
No region in Scotland can boast of finer scenery than
the county of Dumbarton ; and certainly none more
varied, or oftener visited and admired by strangers.
Considerably more than one-half of Loch Lomond,
and fully two-thirds of the islands in it, belong to Dum-
bartonshire. Loch Sloy in Arrochar, Lochs Humphrey
and Cochno in Old KUpatrick, Fynloch in Dumbarton,
Fannyside Loch in Cumbernauld, and several smaller
lakes, have aggregately a considerable area. The river
Clyde, from opposite Blythswood to the influx of the
Leven, runs 8| miles along the southern border ; and,
like the Firth, onward to the soutli-western extremity
of Roseneath, teems ^vith the vast commercial traffic
of Glasgow. The Leven, M-inding 7^ miles south-
ward from Loch Lomond to the Clyde, bisects the
lowland district of the county's main body, and is
notable at once for the purity of its waters, the richness
of its vale, and the profusion of bleachfields and print-
works on its banks. The Endrick, over all its run on
the eastern boundary, is a beautiful stream. The Kel-
vin, though ditch-like where it approaches the main
body's south-eastern border, yet at Killermont and
Garscube exhibits much exquisite beauty. AUander
Water drains most of New Kilpatriek to the Kelvin.
The Falloch, Inveruglas, Douglas, Luss, Finlas,
Fruin, and other brooks and torrents, with many
fine cascades, drain most of the Highland tracts
into Loch Lomond. The Kelvin traces most of the
northern boundary of the detached district, but every-
where there retains its ditch-like character. The slug-
fish Luggie drains the western part of the detached
istrict to the Kelvin, and some tiny streamlets drain
the eastern part to the Carron. Many beautiful rivulets
and burns are in the interior of the main body, running
either to the principal rivers, or jmrsuing independent
courses to the Clyde, Gare Loch, or Loch Long. The
Forth and Clyde Canal traverses the N border of the
detached district, and afterwards passes along the S
border of the main body to the Clyde at Bowling Bay.
Springs of excellent water are almost everywhere nume-
rous and copious.
The climate is exceedingly various. Some parts of
the county, such as the seaboard of the Clyde and the
Vale of Leven, are comparatively genial, while other
parts, as the pastoral lancls of Arrochar and the plateaux
of the Kilpatriek Hills, are comparatively severe. Even
388
small tracts only a few miles distant from one another
are so strongly affected by the configuration of the sur-
face as to differ widely in regard to heat, moisture, and
the winds. Nowhere in Scotland do heights and hol-
lows act more powerfully on climate, the former in the
way of attracting or cooling, the latter in ventilating or
warming. Even in places so near and like one another
as Keppoch, Camus Eskan, Ardincaple, and Bellretiro,
the aggregate rain-fall, as ascertained by gauges all
of one construction, was respective!}' 43 "15, 45 "5, 50 '57,
and 52 '5. The climate, on the whole, however, is good.
There is more moisture, indeed, than in many other
parts of Scotland, but the excess is not so much in the
quantity that falls as in the length of time it takes to
fall ; and whatever disadvantage arises from a corre-
sponding excess of cloudiness, seems to be well counter-
balanced by the prevalence of the genial "W wind
during no less than about nine months in the j^car.
Sharp E winds blow in spring, but, even in their
sharpest moods, they are not so keen as in the eastern
counties, and are much less accompanied with frosty
fogs.
The formation consists of mica slate in the N, with
dj'kes of whinstone and greenstone ; Lower Silurian
towards the S ; and Old Red sandstone along the Clj"de
estuary, where trap rocks of various kinds form Dum-
barton Castle Rock and Dumbuck Hill, besides the
main bulk of the Kilpatriek Hills. Mica slate, always
stratified, often laminated, and generally compris-
ing much mica, much quartz, and very little fel-
spar, forms the greater part of the highest and
most striking uplands of the N. The quartz of the
mica slate is sometimes so extremely abundant as to
render the rock more properly quartzose than micaceous.
The mica slate likewise passes occasionally into talc
slate, and both the mica slate and the talc slate, be-
tween Tarbet and Luss, are intersected by beds of
gi'eenstone, felspar, and porphyry. Clay slate is also
plentifirl in the N, lies generally on the mica slate, is
frequently traversed by veins of quartz, abounds with iron
pyrites, and is quarried as a roofing slate at Luss and
Camstradden. A kind of limestone slate, or a laminated
rock strongly charged with lime, occm-s in the same
tracts as the clay slate. Greywacke, chiefly amorphous,
seldom slaty, and often abounding with quartz, com-
mences a little S of Camstradden slate quarrj', and forms
a large portion of the parishes of Row and Cardross. A
bluish -black limestone is frequently associated with the
greywacke. Old Red sandstone extends from the lower
part of Loch Lomond, through the western part of Bon-
hill, and through Cardross and Row, to the SW of Rose-
neath. A yellow sandstone of quite different lithological
character from the Old Red sandstone, easily chiseled,
but hardening by exposure, occurs at some parts of the
seaboard of the Clyde, and extends at intervals and fit-
fully to Netherton -Garscube. Carboniferous limestone,
coal, shale, and small beds of ironstone lie above the
sandstones in the eastern wing of the main body of the
county, and throughout the detached district ; but
they aggregately yield a very poor produce compared
with that of other Scottish regions of the coal forma-
tion, Dumbartonshire's mineral output for 1878 being
210,520 tons of coal and 3000 of fireclay.
The land area of the county is 154,541^ acres, but
was formerly over-estimated at 167,040 acres ; and, by a
competent agricultural authority, who so over-estimated
it, was classified into 6050 acres of deep black loam,
30,970 of clay on a subsoil of till, 25,220 of gi-avel or
gravelly loam, 3750 of green hilly pasture, 99,400 of
mountain and moor, 720 of bog, and 930 of isles in
Loch Lomond. The rivalry of proprietors in the
lowland districts, the demand from the markets of
Glasgow and Greenock, the great increase of general
local trade, and the new facilities of communication by
steamboats and railways, have powerfully stimulated
agricultural improvement. Draining, fencing, reclama-
tion, skilful manuring, ameliorated courses of rotation,
and the use of better implements, have all been brought
largely into play, with the result of greatly enhancing
AH^'-oa ^:aia3.
1
r-
DUMBARTONSHIRE
DUMBARTONSHIRE
the value of land and increasing the amount of produce,
lu ISrO the percentage of the cultivated area was 24 '9,
in ISSl 26 "8, viz., 5 '8 under corn crops, 2'8 under green
crops, 7 7 under clover, etc., and 10 '4 under permanent
pasture. A great extension of sheep-farming, begun in
the early part of the present century, went on vigorously
and rapidly in the upland districts ; and was accom-
panied there by the practice of nioor-burning, which
occasioned such a change on the face of the hills, that
tracts formerly brown and heathy are now covered with
pasture. The growth of copsewood on lands unfit for
tillage or pasture has long been much practised ; and,
besides being ornamental to the landscape, yields a
considerable revenue. In 1872 there were 83S8 acres
under wood. The cattle, in the upland districts, are
of the Highland breeds ; in the lowland disti'icts, gene-
rally either crosses between these and the Ayrshire, or,
on dairy farms or for dairy purposes, pure Ayrshire.
The sheep, on the hill districts, are mostly the black-
faced ; on the low grounds, are generally the Cheviot,
with some mixture of English breeds. The native horses
are small animals, of intermediate character between
the ordinary cart-horse and Highland pony ; and with
few exceptions are scarcely ever used in field labour.
Cl3'desdale horses, either purchased in the Lanarkshire
markets or bred from good stallions, are in common use
on the arable farms. Sw^ne, mostly for home use, are
kept by almost all the farmers, and by many cottagers.
Herds of fallow deer are on luchmurrin and Inchlonaig
in Loch Lomond ; and red deer once abounded in the
mountain districts, but were long ago exterminated.
Bee-keeping is largely carried on, especially at Clynder.
Manufactures struck I'oot in Dumbartonshire in the
year 1728, and were greatly stimulated and extended
b}' the formation of good roads, the deepening of the
Clyde, the opening of the Forth and Clyde Canal, the
introduction of steam navigation, and the opening of
successively the Dumbartonshire, the Vale of Leven, the
Forth and Clyde, the Dumbarton and Helensburgh,
and the Strathendrick I'ailways. They have also derived
increase, from demands and facilities for shipbuilding,
from the growing increase of summer tourists to Loch
Lomond and Loch Long, and from summer residence of
multitudes of Glasgow citizens at Helensburgh, Gareloch-
head, Roseneath, Kilcreggan, Cove, Arrochar, and other
places ; and they now figure so largely and vigorously as to
compete in value ^vith the arts of agriculture. Most of
the low tracts of the county, even such as possess no
coal within their o'wn limits, have followed Glasgow and
tried to rival it in some of its departments of manufac-
ture. The Vale of Leven, in particular, is crowded with
bleachfields, printfields, dye-works, and cotton-works,
giving employment to thousands. Cotton-printing,
cotton-spinning, paper -making, iron -working, ship-
building, the making of chemicals, and the distilling of
whisky are all more or less prominent. The salmon and
herring fisheries are also highly important and lucrative.
The Forth and Clyde Canal, besides serving for water
conveyance, concentrates some trade around its W end
at Bowling Bay. The deepening of the Clyde, in addi-
tion to its greatly improving the navigation and stimulat-
ing commerce, produced the incidental advantage of
adding to the county about 600 acres of rich land — the
spaces behind the stone walls, formed for confining the
tidal current, having rapidly filled up with a fine
alluvial deposit, which soon became available first
for meadow and next for the plough. The steamboat
communication is very ample, including lines up and
down Loch Lomond, and connecting all the chief places
on the Clyde and on the sea-lochs with Greenock and
Glasgow. The railways comprise a continuous line
from Helensburgh east-south-eastward through Dum-
barton to the south-eastern boundary at the Kelvin, and
various other lines and branch lines, which are all linked
by junctions into the general railway system of Scotland.
The only royal burgh is Dumbarton. The other
towns are Helensburgh, Kirkintilloch, Alexandria,
Bonhill, Renton, and Cumbernauld. The chief villages
are Arrochar, Balloch, Bowling Bay, Cardross, Clyde-
bank, CondoiTat, Cove, Dalmuir, Dalshohn, Dum-
buck, Duntocher, Faifley, Gairlochhead, Garscadden,
Garscube, Hardgate, Jamestown, Kilcreggan, Knights-
wood, Little Alill, Luss, Milton, Nctherton, New Kil-
patrick. Old Kilpatrirk, Roseneath, Smithston Rows,
Waterside, with parts of Yoker and Lenzic. The prin-
cipal seats are Arden House, Ardincaple, Ardmore,
Ardoch, Auchendennan, Auchentorlie, Auclientoshan,
Balloch Castle, Balvie, Baremman, Barnhill, Bloomhill,
Bonhill Place, Boturich Castle, Cameron House, Camus
Eskan, Clober House, Cockno House, Cowden Hill,
Craigrownie, Cumbernauld House, Darleith, Dumbuck
House, Edinbarnet, Finnart, Garscadden, Garscube,
Gartshae House, Glenarbuck, Helenslee, Keppoch,
Killermont, Kilmahew, Kilmardinny, Knoxland, Len-
noxbank, Roseneath Castle, Rossdhu, Strathleven,
Stuckgowan, Tillechewan Castle, Westerton House,
and Woodhead. According to Miscellaneous Statistics
of the United Kingdom. (1S79), 153,736 acres, with a
total gross estimated rental of £325,407, were divided
among 2346 landowners, . one holding 67,041 acres
(rental £12,943), two together 15,979 (£8794), eight
20.221 (£29,970), twelve 17,515 (£24,745), eighteen
12,152 (£15,336), sixty-three 14,737 (£67,632), etc.
The places of worship within the civil county, in 1881,
were 17 quoad civilia parish churches, 9 quoad sacra
parish churches, 3 chapels of ease, 21 Free churches, 11
U.P. churches, 1 United Original Secession church, 1
Independent chapel, 2 Baptist chapels, 1 Methodist
chapel, 1 Evangelical Union chapel, 3 Episcopal churches,
and 5 Roman Catholic churches. In Sept. 1880 the
county had 50 schools (39 of them public), which, with
total accommodation for 11,695 children, had 9729
on the registers and 7171 in average attendance, the
certificated, assistant, and pupil teachers numbering
96, 8, and 87.
The county is governed (1882) by a lord-lieutenant,
a vice-lieutenant, 22 deputy-lieutenants, a sheriff, a
sheriff-substitute, and 109 magistrates. The sheriff
court for the county, and the commissarj'' court are
held at Dumbarton on every Tuesday and Friday
during session ; sheriff's small debt courts are held at
Dumbarton on every Tuesday during session and occa-
sionally during vacation ; at Kirkintilloch, on the first
Thursdays of March, June, September, and December ;
and quarter sessions are held at Dumbarton on the first
Tuesdays of March, May, and August, and the last
Tuesday of October. The county gaol is at Dumbarton,
and has been noticed in our account of that town. The
committals for crime, in the annual average of 1841-45,
were 77 ; of 1846-50, 127 ; of 1851-55, 141 ; of
1856-60, 87 ; of 1861-65, 77 ; of 1865-70, 89 ; of 1871-
75, 50 ; of 1876-80, 57. The police force of the county,
in 1881, excluding 9 men for Dumbarton, comprised 43
men ; and the salary of the chief constable was £250.
The number of persons tried at the instance of the
police, in 1880, was 785 ; convicted, 731 ; committed for
trial, 45 ; not dealt with, 35. Exclusive of Dumbarton,
the county returns a member to parliament (Liberal
1837-41, Lib.-Con. 1841-68, Con. 1868-81), its constitu-
ency numbering 3009 in 1882. The annual value of real
property, assessed at £71,587 in 1815, was £147,079 in
1843, £272,138 in 1875, and £384,627 in 1882, or, in-
cluding railways, etc., £458,761, 13s. Pop. (1801)
20,710, (1811) 24,169, (1821) 27,317, (1831) 33,211,
(1841) 44,296, (1851) 45,103, (1861) 52,034, (1871)
58,857, (1881) 75,327, of whom 37,311 Mere males, and
38,016 females. Houses (1881) 14,259 inhabited, 1238
vacant, 191 building.
The registration county takes in a part of New Kil-
patritk parish from Stirlingshire, and had, in 1881, a
population of 78,176. All the parishes are assessed for
the poor, and 9 of them, with 3 in Stirlingshire and 1 in
Perthshire, are included in Dumbarton poor law com-
bination. The number of registered poor, during the
year ending 14 May 1880, was 1313 ; of dependants on
these, 881 ; of casual poor, 899 ; of dependants on
these, 773. The receijits for the poor in the same
vear were £14,408 ; and the expenditure was£13,790.
^ 389
DUMBARTONSHIRE RAILWAY
The number of pauper lunatics was 148, and the ex-
penditure on their account was £1163, 3s. 6d. The per-
centage of illegitimate births was 67 in 1871, 5 '9 in
1876, 5 '4 in 1879, and 4-8 in 1880.
The territory now forming Dumliartonshire belonged
anciently to the Caledonian Damnonii or Attacotti ; was
included by the Romans in their province of Yespasiana ;
and, exclusive of its detached district, was long a main
part of the ancient district of Lennox or Levenax.
That district included a large part of what is now Stir-
lingshire, and portions of what are now Perthshire and
Renfrewshire. It was constituted a county by AVilliam the
Lyon, and underwent curtailments after some period in
the 13th century, reducing it to the limits of the present
main body of Dumbartonshire. The county then changed
its name from Lennox to Dumbartonshire ; and, in the
time of Robert I. , had annexed to it its present detached
district. It was the scene of many contests between
Caledonians and Romans, between Cumbrians and
Saxons, between Scots and Picts, between Highland
clan and Highland clan, between the caterans and the
Lowlanders, between different parties in the several
civil wars of Scotland ; and made a great figure, espe-
cially in the affairs of Antoninus' Wall and those
of the Cumbrian or Strathclyde kingdom, in the events
of the wars of the succession, and the turmoils of the
cateran forays in the time of Eob Roy. Some of the
salient points in its history are touched in the account
of Dumbarton Castle, and in the article on Lennox.
Several cairns and a cromlech still extant, several
rude stone coffins, and fire-hollowed canoes found
imbedded in the mud of the river close to the castle a
few years ago, are memorials of its Caledonian period.
A number of old rude forts or entrenchments, parti-
cularly in its Highland districts, are memorials of
Caledonian, Pictish, and Scandinavian warfare within
its limits. Vestiges of Antoninus' Wall, and relics
found on the site of that wall along all the N border of
its detached district, and along the SE border of its
main Ijody onward to the wall's western end at Chapel-
hill in the vicinity of Old Kilpatrick village, and an
ancient bridge and a sudatorium at Duntocher, are
memorials of the Romans. Several objects in Dum-
barton Castle, and particularly historical records in
connection with the castle, are memorials of the civil
wars ; a mound in the E end of Cardross parish, not
far from Dumbarton town, indicates the last residence
or death -place of Robert Bruce ; numerous old castles,
some scarcely traceable, some existing as ruins, some
incorporated with modern buildings, as at Faslane, Bal-
loch, Ardincaple, Dunglass, and Kirkintilloch, are
relics of the several periods of the baronial times ; and
other objects in various parts, particularly in Glenfruin,
are memorials of sanguinary conflicts among the clans.
See Joseph Irving's History of Du7nhartonshire, Civil,
Ecclesiastical, and Territorial (Dumb. 1860) ; his Book
of Dumhartonsliire (3 vols. 1879) ; and William Eraser's
Chiefs of Colquhoun and their Country (2 vols., Edinb.,
1869).
Dumbartonshire Railway. See Caledonian Rail-
way.
Dumbreck, a hill on the mutual boundary of Strath-
blane and Cam psie parishes, SW Stirlingshire, culminat-
ing l.| mile NNE of Strathblane village, and rising to an
altitude of 1664 feet above sea-level. It forms part of
the western chain of the Lennox Hills ; and overhangs
Ballagan Glen on the W, and Fin Glen on the E.
Dumbreck, a triangular loch (2xjs furl.) in Strath-
blane parisli, SW Stirlingshire, 1 mile SW of Strath-
bhine village.
Dumbuck, a village and a mansion in the W of Old
Kilpatrick parish, Dumbartonshire. The village stands
near the Clyde, If mile E by S of Dumbarton ; and the
nei'dibouriiig mansion, Dumbuck House, is the property
of John Edward Geils, Esrp (b. 1812; sue. 1843), who
owns 655 acres in the shire, valued at £1209 per annum.
Wooded Dumbuck Hill (547 feet), immediately to the
N, is a bold basaltic abutment from the south-western
extremity of the Kilpatrick Hills, that stoops preci- I
390
DUMFRIES
pitously to Dumbarton plain. It commands a magni-
ficent prospect from Tinto to Arran, and from the
Grampians to Ayrshire ; and so much outtops Dum-
barton Castle as easily to command it by artillery, yet
was occupied with little efifect by Prince Charles Edward's
forces in the '45.
Dumbuils, an eminence (300 feet) in Forgandenny
parish, SE Perthshire, 1 mile SE of Forgandenny village.
Low, craggy, and elliptical, it has traces on the crests
of its accessible sides of an ancient bulwark, formed of
very large granite boulders ; and it commands a brilliant
view of Lower Strathearn and the Firth of Tay.
Dumcrieff, a handsome mansion, with finely wooded
grounds, in Moffat parish, N Dumfriesshire, on the
right bank of Moffat Water, 2 miles SE of IMoffat town.
Owned first by Murrays, then by the future Sir George
Clerk of Penicuik, it was the residence about 1785 of
John Loudon Macadam, of road-making celebrity, and
next of Burns's biographer, Dr James Currie (1756-
1805), by whom, a few months before his death, it was
sold to l)r John Rogerson (1741-1823), court physician
at St Petersburg for close upon fifty years, it now
belongs to his great-grandson. Lord Polio, who holds
7220 acres in the shire, valued at £3044 per annum.
See DuNCKTJB.
Dumfin, an eminence (200 feet) in Luss parish, Dum-
bartonshire, on the left bank of Fruin W^ater, 3 miles
ENE of Helensburgh. It takes its name, signifying
'the fort of Fin,' from its legendary connection with
Fingal ; and it has traces of an ancient fort.
Dumfries, a to^-n and a parish on the SW border of
Dumfriesshire. A royal and parliamentary burgh, a
seaport— since the era of railways of little importance —
a seat of manufacture, the capital of Dumfriesshire, the
assize town for the south-western counties, and practically
the metropolis of a great extent of the S of Scotland,
the town stands on the left bank of the river Nith, and
on the Glasgow and South-Wcstern railway at the
junction of the lines to Lockerbie and Portpatrick, by
rail being 14^ miles WSW of Lockerbie, 15 J AVNW of
Annan, 19| NE of Castle-Douglas, 80^ ENE of Port-
Patrick, 42i SE of Cumnock, 92 SE by S of Glasgow,
S9f S by W"of Edinburgh, 33 WNV: of Cariisle, and 333|
NNW of London. The site is mainly a gentle elevation,
nowhere higher than 80 feet above sea-level, partly the
low flat ground at its skirts ; extends about 1 mile from N
to S, parallel to the river ; rises steeply from the banks
at the N end, and is blocked there by a curve in the
river's course ; and bears the lines of Castle Street and
High Street along its summit. Maxwelltown, along
the Kirkcudbrightshire bank of the Nith, directly oppo-
site and nearly of the same length as Dumfries, seems
to be rather a part of the town than a suburb, and is
partly included in the parliamentary (though not in the
royal) burgh. Behind JMaxwelltown to the W is Corbelly
Hill, a broad-based, round, and finely-outlined elevation,
on the summit of which stand a church and convent of
the Immaculate Conception, erected in 1881-82, from de-
signs by Messrs Pugin, for Nuns of the Perpetual Adora-
tion of the Blessed Sacrament ; whilst a little lower down
is a picturesque building, serving the double purpose
of an observatory and a museum of natural history and
antiquities The view from the top of this hill is very
extensive, and also of great natural beauty — the broad
and level valley, for the most part highly cultivated,
of the Nith, abounding in mansions, villas, gardens, and
nursery grounds ; the iloH'at and Galloway Hills, with
the higher peaks of Queensberry and Criffel ; and, over
the Solway, the far-away Cumberland mountains. Alto-
gether, the landscape, seen from the top of Corbelly Hill,
is not so unlike the plains of Lombardy. Dumfries itself,
in architectural structure, relative position, social charac-
ter, marketing importance, and general influence, holds a
high rank among the towns of the kingdom. It is a
minor capital, ruling in the S with nearly as much sway
as Edinburgh in the E. It has either within itself or
in its immediate outskirts an unusually large proportion
of educated and wealthy inhabitants, giving evident
indication of their presence in the tone and manners ;
DUMFRIES
DUMFRIES
and is seen at once, by even a passing stranger, to be a
place of opulence, taste, and pretension. It has some-
times been called, by its admirers, ' the Queen of the
South ; ' and it was designated by the poet Burns, ' Maggie
by the banks o' Nith, a dame wi' pride eneuch.' It is
the cynosure of the south-western counties ; and it
swaj's them alike in the interests of mind, of trade,
and of commerce. It has no rival or competitor,
none at least that can materially compare with it,
between Ayr and Carlisle, or between the Irish Sea and
the Lowther ilountains. And even as a town, though
other influential towns were not remote, it challenges
notice for its terraces and pleasant walks beside
the river ; for its lines and groups of villas around
its outskirts ; for its picturesqueness of aspect as
seen from many a vantage-ground in the near vici-
nity ; for the spaciousness of its principal streets ;
and for a certain, curious, pleasing romance in the
style and collocation of many of its edifices. It so
blends regularity of alignment with irregularity as to
be far more fascinating than if it were strictly regular ;
and it so exhibits its building material, a red-coloured
Permian sandstone, now in the full flush of freshness
from the quarry, now in worn aspects of erosion by time,
as to present a tout ensemble of mingled sadness and
gaiety.
Three bridges connect Dumfries and Maxwelltown ;
but only the uppermost one is available for carriages ;
and this commands a good view of all the riverward
features of the burgh and the suburb, stretching partly
to the N but chiefly to the S. The space along the
Dumfries bank, between the bridges, is a wide street-
terrace ; the space further down, to a much greater dis-
tance, is an expanded or very wide street-terrace, used
partly as the cattle market, partly as a timber market,
and called the Sands ; and the space still further down,
opposite the foot of the town and a long way past it, is
a broad grassy promenade, fringed along the inner side
by a noble umbrageous avenue, and called the Dock.
The central streets present an array of fairly well-ap-
pointed shops. All the streets are paved, drained, clean,
and well-lighted ; and outlets on the roads to the N, to
the S, and to the E are studded with villas. Yet parts
of the to^^^l, particularly numerous lanes or closes off
High Street, some intersecting lanes from street to
street, and portions of the old narrow streets are disagree-
able and unwholesome. The Nith contributes much to
both salubrity and beauty ; ajJproaches, in long winding
sweeps, imder high banks richly clothed with wood ;
breaks immediately beyond the lower bridge, over a
high caul, built for the water supply of gi-ain mills on
the Maxwelltown side ; swells into a lake-like expanse
above the caul ; leaps into rapid current at low tide
below it ; is driven back by the flow of tide against it ;
and, both above and below the town, to the extent of
several miles, has verdant banks tracked mth public
roads and footpaths.
The uppermost bridge was built in 1790-94 ; encoun-
tered great difficulties in the erection ; cost, with the
approaches to it, £4588 ; and occasioned, for the forming
of Buccleuch Street, an additional cost of £1769 ; and is
a structure more substantial than elegant, yet not desti-
tute of beauty. The middle bridge was built in the 13th
century by Devorgilla, mother of John Baliol ; and for
many long generations was held to be second only
to London Bridge. It had originally nine arches, and
is commonly, but erroneously, said to have had thirteen ;
suS"ered, in course of burghal improvements, demolition
of about one-third of its length at the Dumfries end ;
has now only six arches ; is ascended, at the Dumfries
end, by a flight of steps, so as to be accessible only by
foot passengers ; and makes a prominent figure both in
curious picturesqueness and as a great work of the early
mediseval times. The lowermost bridge was opened on
the last day of 1875 ; cost nearly £1800 ; is an iron
suspension structure for pedestrians ; mcasui-es 203 feet
in length and 6^ feet in width ; and has sides of trellis
work rising 35 feet from the roadway to the finial. The
County Buildings stand on the S side of the lower part
of Buccleuch Street ; were erected in 1863-66, after
designs by David Rhind, of Edinburgh, with aid of
£10,418 from Government ; are in the Scottish Baronial
style, with peaked towers and open Italianised para-
pets ; present an imposing castellated appearance ; rise
to a height of four stories, including a sunk story ; and
contain a court-hall with accommodation for 300 persons,
and offices or rooms for all departments of the county
business. The prison of 1851, adjoining the E end of
the County Buildings, is surrounded by a high wall,
that greatly disfigures the aspect of the street. This
building, not fulfilling the requirements deemed necessary
in modern prisons, has been condemned ; and a .site for
a new one was purchased by government in 1881 for
£1400 on the western outskirts of Maxwelltown. The
Town-Hall, on the N side of Buccleuch Street, opposite
the prison, was originally the spacious chapel or ' taljer-
nacle ' erected by Robert Haldane in 1799. Having
stood for some years unoccupied after the Haldane
collapse, it was purchased in 1814, altered, renovated,
and architecturally adorned, to be used as the county
courthouse ; and, after the opening of the new County
Buildings in 1866, was sold for £1020 to the town
council. Within it hang portraits of William and Mary
of Orange, and Charles, the third Duke of Queensberry ;
and here is preserved the famous Silver Gun of the Seven
Trades, the mimic cannon, 10 inches long, which James
VI. presented to the craftsmen in 1617, to be shot for
on Kingholm Merse — a custom kept up till 1831. The
stack of buildings in the centre of High Street, cleaving
it for a brief space into two narrow thoroughfares, con-
tains the old town council room, and is surmounted by
a steeple called originally the Tron, but now the Mid,
Steeple. This steeple was erected in 1707, at a cost of
£1500, from designs (not of Inigo Jones, but) of a cer-
tain Tobias Bachup of Alloa. It figures prominently,
both in the High Street's own range and in every land-
scape view of the town, but has now a weather-worn and
neglected appearance. The Trades Hall, on the E side
of High Street opposite the Mid Steeple, was rebuilt
in 1804 at a cost of £11,670 ; and, the trades' corpora-
tion privileges having been abolished in 1846, was
sold to a merchant in 1847 for £650. The Assembly
Rooms stand in George Street, were erected at a compara-
tively recent period, and are neat and commodious.
The Theatre, in Shakespeare Street, built in 1790, and
rebuilt and decorated in 1876, was the scene of early
eftbrts of Edmund Kean and Macready. A Doric column
to the memory of the third Duke of Queensberry was
erected in Queensberry Square in 1804 ; and an orna-
mental public fountain (1860) stands in the centre of
the lower expansion of High Street.
The railway station stands at the north-eastern extre-
mity of the town ; was constructed, in lieu of a previous
adjacent one, in 1863; and contains accommodation for
the junctions of the lines from Lockerbie and Portpatrick
with the Glasgow and South-Western. It includes a fine
suite of buildings for offices, waiting-rooms, and hotel ;
had, till 1876, all its building on the W side of the rail-
wav, confronted, along the opposite side, by a broad
brilliant parterre ; but in 1875-76, preparatory to its be-
coming the working nexus between the Scottish systems
and the English Midland system, rmderwent great exten-
sion and improvement by the erection of a booking-office
and other buildings on the E side, the provision of three
times the previous amount of accommodation ibr goods,
the construction of new premises for engines and smiths'
shops, the formation of a great series of new sidings, the
laying down of three new lines of rails, and the opening
of a new approach street, so that it is now a station at
once handsome, picturesque, and commodious. A via-
duct of the Glasgow and Nortli-Wcstern railway crosses
the Nith about a mile N of the station ; and some other
railway works of considerable magnitude are in the
vicinity. Most of the banking-offices in the town are
neat or handsome edifices, and .several of them are of
recent erection. The King's Arms Hotel and the Com-
mercial Hotel, on the confronting sides of tlic lower ex-
pansion of High Street, are old and spacious cstahlish-
391
DUMFRIES
ments ; and the latter was the headquarters of Prince
Charles Edward during three days of Dec. 1745.
The QueensbeiTy Hotel, near the junction of English
Street and High Street, is a recent elegant erection.
The Southern Counties Club, in Irish Street, was
erected in 1874 ; is a handsome two-story edifice ; and con-
tains an elegant billiard room, 45 feet bj' 25, and other
fine large apartments. Nithsdale woollen factory, at
the foot of St Michael Street, overlooking the Dock
promenade, was erected in 1858-59 ; is a vast, massive,
turreted edifice, almost palatial in aspect ; and has a
chimney stalk rising to the height of 174 feet. Tro-
queer woollen factories, on the Kirkcudbrightshire side
of the Nith, almost directly opposite the Nithsdale fac-
tor)', are two structures of respectively 1866-67 and
1869-70, and more than compete with the Nithsdale
factory in both extent of area and grandeur of ajipear-
ance.
St Slichael's Established church stands off the E side
of St Michael Street, near the site of its pre -Reformation
predecessor. Built in 1744-45, and repewed and reno-
vated in 1869 and 1881, it contains 1250 sittings, and
is surmounted by a plain but imposing steeple, 130 feet
high. The churchyard around it — a burial-jilace for
upwards of seven centuries — is crowded with obelisks,
columns, urns, and other monuments of the dead, com-
puted to number folly 3000, and to have been raised at
an aggregate cost of from £30,000 to £100, 000. Among
them are the mausoleum of the poet Burns, a granite
]>yi'amid (1834) to the memory of three martyi's of the
Covenant, and over 300 'first-class monuments.' Grey-
friars Established church stands on the site of Dumfries
Castle, fronting the N end of High Street, and succeeded
a previous church on the same site, built in 1727 partly
of materials from the ancient castle. Itself erected in
1866-67, after designs by Mr Starforth, of Edinburgh,
at a cost of nearly £7000, it is a richly ornamented
Gothic edifice, the finest in the burgh, with a beautiful
spire 164 feet high. St Mary's Established church, at
the N end of English Street, on the site of a 14tli
century chantry, reared by the widow of Sir Christopher
Seton, was built in 1837-39, after designs by John Hen-
derson, of Edinburgh, at a cost of £2400. It also is
Gothic, with an open spire formed by flying buttresses,
and was renovated and reseated in 1878. The Free
church in George Street, built in 1843-44 at a cost of
£1400, is a plain mansion-like edifice, containing 984
sittings. The Territorial Free church, at the junction of
Shakespeare Street with the foot of High Street, was
built in 1864-65 at a cost of £1800, and contains
500 sittings. The U.P. church in Loreburn Street,
rebuilt in 1829 at a cost of more than £900, contains
500 sittings. The U.P. church in Buccleuch Street, re-
built in 1862-63, after designs by Alexander Crombie,
at a cost of £2000, is a handsome Gothic edifice,
and contains 700 sittings. The U.P. church, in Town-
head Street, was built in 1867-68 ; succeeded a previous
church in Queensberry Street, built in 1788 ; is a
handsome edifice ; and contains 460 sittings. The
Reformed Presbyterian church, on the E side of Irving
Street, was built in 1831-32, and interiorly recon-
structed in 1866 ; is a neat building ; and contains 650
.sittings. The Independent chapel, on the "VV side of
Irving Street, was built in 1835, enlarged in 1862,
repewed and renovated in 1880 ; is a neat structure in
the Italian style ; and contains 650 sittings. The Wes-
leyan chapel in Buccleuch Street, at the corner of Castle
Street, is a modest edifice, and contains 400 sittings.
The Episcopal church of St John's, in Dunbar Terrace,
was built in 1867-68, after designs by Slater and
Carpenter, of London ; is a striking structure in pure
First Pointed style, with a tower and spire 120 feet
high; and contains 460 sittings. The Catholic Apos-
tolic chapel, in Queen Street, was built in 1865 at a
cost of £1000, and is a small building with a towerlet
and pinnacle 58 feet high. The Baptist chapel in
Newall Terrace, successor to one in Irisli Street, is a
solid, plain edifice, seated for 420, erected in 1880
at a cost of £1900. The Roman Catholic church of St
DUMFRIES
Andrew, pro-cathedral of the diocese of Whithorn or
Galloway, in Shakespeare Street, near English Street,
was built in 1811-13 at a cost of £2600. Romanesque
in style with Byzautine features, it received the addition
of a fine tower and octagonal spire (1843-58), 147 feet
liigh, of N and S transepts and a domed apse (1871-72);
and in 1879 the interior was beautifully decorated with
arabesque designs. For all these improvements St
Andrew's is indebted to the Maxwells of Terrcgles, and
mainly to the late Hon. I\Iarmaduke Constable Maxwell,
a monument to whom was placed in it in 1876. The
Roman Catholic schools adjoining the cliuixh are ex-
cellent buildings ^vith separate departments for boys,
girls, and infants. Pupils on roll, 430 ; average attend-
ance, 360 ; Government gi'ant, May 1881, £296, Os. 6d.
The jMarist Brothers, a R.C. teaching order, a lay as-
sociation of men, under vows of obedience, poverty, and
chastity, have, since 1874, had their head house for the
three kingdoms at St l^Iichael's Mount, formerly Lam-al
Bank, a mansion within 5 or 6 acres of ground in a
south-eastern suburb. St Michael's Mount is also used
as a sanatorium for the invalided brothers of the Order ; a
Provincial resides ; and there is a Novitiate attached. St
Joseph's Commercial College, formerly the old infirmary
building, altered and enlarged, is a R.C. middle-class
boarding school for boys, conducted by these Marist
Brothers. About 40 pupils from various parts of the
kingdom, and a few foreigners, are instructed in modern
languages, mathematics, English, etc.
The Academy or High School, erected in 1802 on the
brow of the Nith's steep bank near Greyfriars' church,
is surrounded by a playground, 1-^ acre in extent,
and presents a plain j^et imposing appearance. With
accommodation for 500 scholars, it gives instruction
to boys and girls in classics, modern languages,
mathematics, arithmetic, -writing, drawing, and all de-
partments of English. Under the school-board, the
Academy is conducted by a rector, 3 other masters,
3 assistants, and 1 lady teacher, mth endo^^^nents
amounting to £262, and £48 per annum to keep up
fabric from the to\A-n. In 1882 there were 281 pupUs
on the roll. There are several bursaries — 1 of £18, 1 of
£15, 3 or 4 each of £12, and a number of special prizes,
besides 22 bursaries provided for by additional bequests,
entitling successful competitors to a free education at
the Academy, with use of books. There are 1 private
school for boys and 2 ladies' schools, all well attended.
There are 3 elementary board schools — Lorubum Street,
St Michael Street, and Greensands, of which the two
first were erected in 1876 at a cost of £3770 and £2800.
With respective accommodation for 500, 400, and 236,
the three had a total avei-age attendance of 1064 during
1881.
School fees — Elementary schools, . £639 10 3
,, Academy, . . . 1510 12 9
School rate, 1182 16 1
Teachers' salaries — Elementary schools, 1467 6 6
,, Academy, . . 1660 4 10
The Episcopal school — a small plain building in St
David Street — has 130 scholars on the roll, an average
attendance of 100, and a government grant of £80. The
Industrial school, Burns Street, founded in 1856, with
accommodation for 80 boys in 1882, is supported partly
by voluntary contribution and partly by government
grant. There are also an Industrial Home for destitute
and orphan girls, supported by voluntary contribution ;
and several charitable associations of a minor character.
In 1880, a Youn^ Men's Christian Association and a
Young Women's do. were established, both having since
been fairly well supported. The Mechanics' Institute
(1825), near the foot of Irish Street, was built in 1859-61,
and is a First Pointed edifice, including a lecture-hall
(76 X 58 feet ; 46 high), with accommodation for 1000
persons, in which cheap public lectures are delivered
during the winter montns. Connected Mith the main
building, but facing St Michael Street, stands the
antique town-house of the Stewarts of Shambelly, which
serves for reading-room and librarj', and is also the
librarian's residence. The Crichtoii Institution, on a
DUMFRIES
rising-ground off tlie public roail, IJ mile SSE of the
town, originated in a bequest of over £100,000 by Dr
James Crichton of Friars Carse. He had thought of a
university ; but, owing to the failure of attempts to
obtain a charter, his trustees decided to construct a
lunatic asvlum for affluent patients. As partially buUt
(1835-39), "at a cost of fully £50,000, it was to have
taken the form of a Greek cross, with central low
octagonal tower, but, as completed (1870) at a further
outlay of £40,000, it has somewhat departed from the
original plan, the whole being now a dignified Italian
edifice, one of whose finest featm-es is the magnificent
recreation hall. The neighbouring Southern Counties
Asylum, for pauper lunatics, was erected in 1848 at a
cost of £20,000 ; it and the Crichton Royal Institution
had respectively 359 and 145 inmates in ISSl.
The Dumfries parish schools (landward) ai'e Catherine-
field, Noblehill and Throhoughton, Kelton and Brown-
hall combined — three in all. For 1881 the aggregate
fees were £187, 5s. 5d. ; annual education grant £372,
10s. 6d. ; balance from rates £215, 16s. 7d. ; teachers'
salaries £652, 14s. lid. ; retiring allowances £70.
In 1879, the estate of Hannahfield and Kingholm
having fallen to the Queen as ultima hares, that portion
of the estate to the south of the town on the river bank,
known as Kingholm Merse, has been made over to the
coi-poration — subject to servitude in favour of the War
Department — for golf, cricket, and purposes of general
sport and recreation. The cro^vn has also granted a
gift of £9500 from the estate, in trust, for the improve-
ment of education in the counties of Dumfries and
Wigtown and in the stewartry of Kirkcudbright ; the
trustees to create bursaries and scholarships, open to
competition for pupUs educated in primary schools,
under the condition that successful competitors shall
continue their education at secondary schools or at
universities. The trustees have now in operation a
' tentative scheme for the Hannahfield bursaries ' in the
three counties, which is likely to be of great advantage
to many deserving students. But the scheme in its pre-
sent form is thought to be open to objection, and vnll
certainly be referred to the Education Department unless
a compromise is arrived at with objecting school-boards.
The Dumfries and Galloway Royal Infirmary stands
in a situation similar to that of the Crichton Institu-
tion, a little nearer the town ; was erected in 1869-71,
after designs by ilr Starforth, at a cost of £13,000 ;
has aiTangements and appliances on the most ap-
proved plans ; and is maintained chiefly by legacies, sub-
scriptions, parochial allowances, and annual grants from
the coimties of Dumfries, Kirkcudbright, and Wigtown.
The workhouse occupies an airy healthy site to the S of
the town ; was erected in 1853-54 at a cost of more than
£5500 ; contains accommodation for 127 pauper inmates ;
serves entirely for the parish of Dumfries ; and has
commonly from 70 to 80 pauper inmates, maintained at
an annual cost of about £600. ilorehead's Hospital
stands in St Michael Street, opposite St Michael's
Church ; was fouuded and endowed, in 1733, by two
persons of the name of Morehead ; gives lodging and
support to poor orphans and aged paupers of both sexes,
and pensions to upwards of 40 widows at their own
homes ; and is maintained, partly by its own funds,
partly by subscriptions and donations.
Dumfries is broadly stamped with the name of the
poet Burns (1759-96). His term of residence here
flashed on the popular mind so vividly as to have been
at once and till the present day esteemed an epoch —
'the time of Bums.' The places in it associated with
his presence outnumber, at least outweigh, those in Ayr,
Irvine, Kilmamock, Tarbolton, Mauchline, or Edin-
burgh. He appeared first in the town on 4 Jime 1787,
and came to it then on invitation to be made an
honorary burgess. He became a resident in it, on re-
moval from Ellisland, in December 1791. For eighteen
months he lived in a house of three small apartments,
on the second floor of a tenement on the N side of
Bank Street, then called the Wee Vennel. He then
removed to a small, self-contained, two-story house
DUMFRIES
on the S side of a short mean street striking eastward
from St Michael Street, in the northern vicinity of St
Michael's Church. The street was then called Millbrae
or 5Iillbrae-Hole ; but, after Bums's death, was desig-
nated Burns Street. The house, in the smaller of whose
two bedrooms he died on 21 July 1796, was occupied
afterwards by his widow down to her death in 1834,
and purchased in 1850 by his son, Lieut. -Col. William
Kicol Burns. It is now occupied by the master of the
adjoining Industrial School, continues to be as much as
possible in the same condition as when Burns inhabited
it, and, through courtesy of its present occupant, is
shown to any respectable stranger. Nearly a hundred
of Burns's most popular songs, including ' Auld Lang-
syne,' 'Scots wha liae wi' Wallace bled,' 'A man's a man
for a' that,' '0 whistle and I'll come to ye, my lad,'
'My love is like a red, red rose,' 'Ye banks and braes o'
bonnie Doon,' 'Cauld kail in Aberdeen,' 'Willie Wastle,'
'Auld Rob Morris,' and 'Duncan Gray,' were written by
him either in this house or in the house in Bank Street.
Many objects, too, in and near the town, and many per-
sons who resided in or near it, are enshrined in his
verse. The High School which preceded the present
academy was made accessible to his children by a special
deed of the Town Council (1793), that put him on the
footing of a real freeman. The Antiburgher Church
in Loreburn Street, on the site of the present U.P.
church there, was frequently attended by him in ap-
preciation of the high excellence of the minister who
then served it. The pew which he more regularly
occupied in St Michael's Church bore the initials, ' R.
B, ' cut with a knife by his own hand ; and was sold, at
the repairing of the church in 1869, for £5. A window
pane of the King's Arms Hotel, on which he scratched
an epigi'am, drew for a long time the attention of both
townsmen and strangers. A volume of the Old Statisti-
cal Account of Scotland, belonging in his time to the
public library of which he was a member, was transferred
to the mechanics' institute, and bears an original verse
of his in his own bold handwriting. Another volume
there, a copy of De Lolme on the British Constitution,
presented by him to the library, contains an autograph
of his which was interpreted at the time to indicate
seditious sentiments. The Globe Tavern which he used
to frequent, and on a window of which he inscribed the
quadrain in praise of ' Lovely Polly Stewart ' and a new
version of ' Coming through the Rye,' retains an old-
fashioned chair on which he was wont to sit ; and the
mere building, situated in a narrow gloomy close ofl" High
Street, is hardly less replete with memories of him than
is the house in which he lived and died. To the Trades'
Hall, akeady noticed, his coffined corpse was removed
on the eve of his public funeral. The matrix of the
cast of his skull, taken at the interment of his widow
in 1834, continued in the possession of the townsman
who took it, and probably is still in safe keeping in
the town. His remains were originally buried in the N
comer of St IMichael's chm-chyard, with no other monu-
ment than a simple slab of freestone * erected by his
widow ; but, in 1815, were transferred to a vault in a more
appropriate part on the SE border, and honoured with a
mausoleum, erected by subscription of fifty guineas from
the Prince Regent and of various sums from a multitude
of admirers. The mausoleum, in the form of a Grecian
temple, after a design by Thomas F. Hunt, of London,
cost originally £1450, and contains a mural sculpture by
Turnerelli, representing the Poetic Genius of Scotland
throwing her mantle over Burns, in his rustic dress, at
the plough. It is now glazed in the inten-als between
its pillars, to protect the sculptiire from erosion by the
weather ; and, besides Bums's own remains, covers those
of his widow and their five sons. The late 'William
Ewart, I\I.P., placed a bust of the poet in a niche of the
front wall of the Industrial School ; and on 6 April 1882
Lord Rosebery unveiled Mrs D. 0. Hill's fine marble
* So says Mr M'Dowall, but, accordinjj to Dorothy Wordsworth,
there was ' no stone to mark the spot ' when, on IS Aug. 1803, with
Coleridfre and her brother William, she stood beside tlie 'untimely
grave of Burns.' Can it be that here too they were nnsinfurmed,
as in the case of Rob Roy's grave, noticed under Bau^iiiidijbr?
393
DUMFRIES
sutiie, on the open space in front of Greyfriars Church.
Nearly 10 feet high, it is raised 5 feet from the ground
on a pedestal of grey Dalbeattie granite ; and represents
Bui-ns, resting on an old tree root, in the act of produc-
ing one of his deathless lyrics. A collie snuggles to his
right foot, and near by lie bonnet, song-book, and shep-
herd's pipe. See William M'Dowall's Burns in Dum-
frksshirc (Edinb. 1S70).
Dumfries has a head post office, with money order,
savings' bank, insurance, and telegraph departments,
offices of the Bank of Scotland, the British Linen Co. ,
and the Clydesdale, Commercial, National, Royal, and
Union Banks, and offices or agencies of 30 insurance com-
panies. Three newspapers are published — the Liberal
and Independent Dumfries Courier (1809) on Tuesday,
the Conservative Dumfriesshire and Galloivay Herald
(1835) on Wednesday and Saturday, and the Liberal
Dumfries and Galloway Standard (1843) also on Wed-
nesday and Saturday. A weekly market of much
importance is held every AVcdnesday for the sale of
sheeji, cattle, pigs, etc. ; and on the same day, in a
covered building in Loreburn Street, a sale of butter and
eggs is held. Another market of secondary importance
is also held on Saturday. Horse fairs are held on a
Wednesday of February, either the second day of that
month 0. s. or the Wednesday after it, on the Wednes-
day before 26 May, on the AVednesday after 17 June o. s.,
on either 25 Sept. or the AVednesday after, and on the
AVednesday before 22 Nov. ; pork fairs are held on every
AVednesday of January, February, March, November,
and December ; and eight hiring fairs are held in the
course of the year. A sale of cattle on the Sands, at
the AVednesday weekly market, dates from 1659 ; was
preceded, from a time long before the Union, by a weekly
sale on Monday ; drew always large supplies from Dum-
friesshire and Galloway for transmission into England ;
rose progressively to such importance that, dming a
considerable course of years, so many as about 20,000
head of cattle were annually sold on the Sands to English
purchasers ; suffered a severe check, partly by the open-
ing of the railways, partly by weekly auction of live
stock, partly by other causes ; and became so reduced
toward 1865, that the number of cattle shown in that
year was only 9605. The number sent from the station,
in 1859, was 13,975, but in 1866 was only 3470. The
sale of sheep, at the weekly markets, seems not to have
commenced till about the end of last century ; but it
increased rapidly in result of the turnip husbandry ;
and it amounted, during the five years ending in 1866,
to the annual average of about 28, 000 sheep ; yet, like
the Sands or market sale of cattle, it was much curtailed
by auction sales and private transfer. The number
of sheep sent from the station, chiefly to England, in
1859, was 43,932; in 1865, 47,105; "in 1881, 60,000.
The total sale of cattle and sheep on the Sands, and in
the auction marts, in 1866, was 9828 cattle and 47,239
sheep. The sale of pork, in the weekly market on the
Sands, for many years prior to 1832, amounted usually
to upwards of 700 carcases in one day, in the busiest
part of the year, often to many more, but it also re-
ceived a severe check by the opening of the railways
and by other causes. The number of carcases shown on
the Sands in all 1859, was only 13,550 ; in 1867, 10,235.
The stock sold in the market or at auction in 1881 were,
cattle 26,415, sheep 82,327, calves 1352, pigs 1086. The
number of horses sold is also very large.
The port of Dumfries is strictly the river Nith, in its
run of 14 J miles to the channel of the Solway, but com-
prises besides all the Scottish side of the Firth, from
Sarkfoot to Kirkandrews Bay ; and includes, as creeks or
sub-ports, Annan, Barlochan, and Kirkcudbright. Its
harbourage nearly everywhere is tidal, with great dis-
advantage from the peculiar ' bore ' of the Solway — a
sudden rapid breast of water of short duration, followed
by hours of total recess, leaving nothing but shallow
fresh-water streams across great breadths of foreshore.
At Dumfries itself there is no better accommodation
than a series of quays, one at Dumfries dock, .and three
at intervals down to a distance of 5 miles. The naviga-
894
DUMFRIES
tion of the Nith was always difficult ; but, in years prior
to 1834, at a cost of £18,930, it underwent material
improvement. A rock which obstructed the channel
at Glencaple, 5 miles below the toAvn, was cut away ;
other obstacles in the river's bed were removed ; the
landing-places at the river's mouth, and the lighthouse
on Southerness flanking the mouth, were put in better
condition ; a quay at Glencaple, and two quays at Kel-
ton, and near Castledyke, between Glencaple and the
town, were constructed. The quay at the town itself
was renovated and extended, and embankments and
other works, to counteract the devastating eff"ect of the
tide's impetuous rush up the river, were formed. The
town's harbour, in consequence, became safer for small
vessels, accessible to larger vessels than before, and ac-
cessible also to coasting steamers ; yet, in result of suc-
cessively the opening of the Glasgow and South-Western
railway in 1850, the opening of the Castle-Douglas and
Dumfries railway in 1859, the opening of the Lockerbie
and Dumfries railway in 1863, the opening of the Sil-
loth railway and wet-dock in 1864, and the opening of
the Solway Junction railway in 1869, it has lost an
amount of traffic more than equal to all that it pre-
viously gained. The revenue from the harbour, in 1831,
was a little short of £1100 ; in 1844, £1212 ; in 1864,
£555 ; in 1867, £474 ; in 1881, £332, 7s. 9d. The
tonnage belonging to the port and sub-ports, which
averaged 8292 during 1840-44, had risen to 15,286 in
1860, but sank to 11,682 in 1866, to 7764 in 1873, and
to 3971 on 31 Dec. 1881. In 1881, the tonnage of ships
inwards was 32,469; outwards, 32,869. The principal
imports are timber, slate, iron, coal, wine, hemp, and
tallow ; and the principal exports are wheat, barley,
oats, potatoes, wool, and sandstone. The customs, which
averaged £8576 a year during 1840-44, and £11,540
during 1845-49, amounted to £6524 in 1864, to £4986
in 1869, to £4583 in 1874, and (inclusive of duty on
British spirits) to £7500 in 1881.
The productive industry of Dumfries, till a recent
period, went little beyond ordinary local artisanship,
but it is now vigorous and flourishing in various im-
portant departments of trade and manufacture. The
large number of wai-ehouses and shops bears evidence to
a healthy amount of competition among business people,
both for the ordinary retail trade, and also for the
wholesale supply of numerous county towns and villages.
There are two important foundries, one very extensive,
for the construction and repair of engines, agricultural
machines, implements, etc. The manufacture of hosiery
is increasing yearly in importance, and gives employ-
ment to a large number of hands in several factories of
considerable size. Tanning and currying, and coach-
building are also important, and there are many em-
ployers of skilled labour, of high standing, in various
departments of trade. The manufacture of tweeds was
introduced in 1847, and has gone on since then steadily
increasing. There are several factories of moderate
size, and three of the largest size, the latter now (1882)
owned by one firm (Messrs AA^'alter Scott & Sons), and
employing a large number of hands.
Constituted a royal burgh by David I. (1124-53), and
divided into four wards, Dumfries is governed by a pro-
vost, 3 bailies, a dean of
guild, a treasurer, and
22 other councillors.
The General Police and
Improvement Act of
Scotland was adopted
prior to 1871 ; and the
magistrates and town
councillors act as com-
missioners of police.
The income of the police
commissioners arises
chiefly from rates, and
in 1880-81 amounted to
£4619, 19s. 7d. The
assize or justiciary court
is held twice a year. The shcrifl" court for the county is
Seal of Dumfrioi
DUMFRIES
DUMFRIES
held every Tuesday and Friday during session ; the sheriff
small debt court, and the debts recovery act court, every
Tuesday in time of session, and on the same days that
ordinary courts are held in vacation. A court of county
justices is held in Dumfries every Monday. The water
and gas works of the burgh are public propertj', and are
well managed, the rates to consumers steailily diminish-
ing. With Annan, Kirkcudbright, Lochmaben, and
Sanquhar, Dumfries I'eturns one member to parliament
(always a Liberal since 1837) ; in 1SS2 its parliamentary
constituency numbered 1858, its municipal 1282.
Corporation revenue (1867) £1599, (1875) £2360, (1881)
£2204. Valuation (1861) £30,028, (1870) £42,860,
(1882) £57,713, of which £4344 was in railways. Pop.
of royal burgh (1841) 10,069, (1851) 11,107, (1861)
12,313, (1871) 13,710, (1881) 15,759; of parliamentary
burgh (1851) 13,166, (1861) 14,023, (1871) 15,435,
(1881) 17,090, of whom 9283 were females. Houses
in parliamentary burgh (1881) 3642 inhabited, 174
vacant, 17 building.
The name Dumfries was anciently written Dunfres,
and is supposed to have been derived from the Gaelic
words dun and phreas, signifying 'a mound covered
with copse wood,' or 'a hill-fort among shrubs.' A
slight rising-gi'ound on the area now occupied by Grey-
friars Church was the site of an ancient fort, afterwards
reconstructed into a sti-ong castle ; is presumed to have
been clothed with copse or natural shrubs ; and appears
to have given origin to the name. The burgh's armorial
bearing was anciently a chevron and three fleur-de-lis,
but came to be a winged figure of St Michael, ti'ampling
on a dragon and holding a pastoral staff. The motto
is, 'A'loreburn' — a word that, during centuries of
sfruggle against invaders, was used as a war-cry to
muster the townsmen. The side toward the English
border being that whence invasion usually came, a place
of rendezvous was appointed there on the banks of a rill
called the Lower Burn, nearly in the line of the present
Loreburn Street ; and when the townsmen were sum-
moned to the gathering, the cry was raised, ' All at the
Lower Bum, ' — a phrase that passed by elision into the
word 'A'loreburn.' A village, which ere the close of
the 10th century had sprung up under the shelter of
the fort on the copse-covered mound, grew gradually
into a town, and was the seat of the judges of Galloway
in the reign of William the Lyon, who died, in 1214, about
which period or a little later it seems to have become a
centre of considerable traffic. Streets on the line of the
present Friars' Vennel and of the northern part of High
Street, with smaller thoroughfares toward Townhead
and Loreburn Street, appear to have been its oldest
portions ; and are supposed to have had, about the
middle of the 13th century, nearly 2000 inhabitants.
The erection of the old bridge before the middle of the
13th century, together with the high character which
that structure originally possessed, indicates distinctly
both the importance then attained by the town and
the line in which its chief riverward thoroughfare
ran ; and another structure, erected by the same
bountiful lady who erected the bridge, also indicates the
position of the nucleus around which the town lay.
This was a Minorite or Greyfriars' monastery, situated
near the head of Friars' Vennel, where now the Burns
Statue stands ; and, small though it was, as compared
with many abbeys, it seems to have been a goodly
First Pointed edifice, comprising an aisled church, a
range of cloisters, a refectory, and a dormitory. In
1286 Robert Bruce the Competitor and the Earl of
Carrick, his son, mth banner displayed assaulted and
captured the castle of Dumfries, a royal fortress of the
child-queen Margaret, the Maid of Norway ; and in
the summer of 1300 King Edward I., on his way to the
siege of Caerlaverock, seized and garrisoned this castle,
and added the high square keeji, part of which re-
mained standing till 1719. In the beginning of 1306
the famous Robert Bruce was in London, called thither
as King Edward's counsellor, when a warning of peril
was sent him by the Duke of Gloucester, his friend —
a sum of money and a pair of spurs. The hint was
enough ; that day he started for Scotland, his horse shod
backwards, that the hoof-prints might throw pursuers
off the track. On February the 4th he halted at Dum-
fries, where the English justiciars were sitting in assize
— John Comyn of Badenoch, surnamed the Red, among
the throng of barons in attendance. Him Bruce en-
countered in the church of the Minorites, and, falling
into discourse, made the proposal to him : ' Take you
my lands, and help me to the throne ; or else let me
take yours, and I will uphold your claim.' Comyn
refused, with talk of allegiance to Edward, and their
words waxed hotter and hotter, till, drawing his dagger,
Bruce struck a deadly blow, then hurried to his friends,
who asketl if aught were amiss. ' I must be off, ' was the
answer, 'for I doubt I have .slain the Red Comyn.'
'Doubt ! ' cried Kirkpatrick of Closeburn, ' I mak sikar ;'
and, with Sir John de Lindsay, rushing into the church,
despatched the wounded renegade outright. A frenzy
seized them ; they carried the castle by assault ; and
thus was rekindled the War of Independence. One
episode therein was that, in this same year of 1306, Sir
Christopher Seton, Bruce's brother-in-law, was hanged
by the English at Dumfries, on the Crystal Mount,
where his widow afterwards founded a chapel in honour
of the Holy Rood.
The town was burned by the English prior to 1448 ;
suffered devastation by them at other periods ; and, in
1469, obtained from the Crown all the houses, gardens,
revenues, and other property which had belonged to the
Grey Friars. It was burned again by the English in 1536,
and was then revenged by Lord Maxwell. That noble-
man, with a small body of retainers, made an incursion
into England, and reduced Penrith to ashes ; and either
he or some member of his family, mainly with materials
from the Greyfriars' monastery, strongly reconstructed
Dumfries Castle. Queen Mary, in October 1565, when
the town, was held by Murray and other disaffected nobles,
favourers of the Reformation, marched against it with
an army of 18,000 men, at whose approach the leaders
of the opposition retreated over the Border. The castle
was again taken and the town sacked, in 1570, by the
English imder Lord Scrope and the Earl of Essex. The
townsmen, in 1583, erected a bartizaned, two-storied
stronghold, called the New Wark, to serve both as a
fortress to resist invasion and as a retreat under dis-
comfiture ; and, either about the same time or at an
earlier period, they constructed likewise, between the
town and Lochar Moss, a rude fortification or extended
rampart, called the Warder's Dike. But all vestiges of
these works, of the castle, and of the monastery are now
extinct.
In 1617 James VI. spent two days at Dumfries in
royal state, and was sumptuously entertained at a pub-
lic banquet. The to^vn shared largely in the disasters
that overspread Scotland under Charles I., and still
more largely in those of the dark reign of Charles II.,
when, in November 1666, a fortnight before the battle
of RuUion Green, fifty mounted Covenanters and a larger
party of peasants on foot here seized Sir James Turner,
and, with him, a considerable sum of money. The
Cameronians, or those of the Covenanters who resisted
the settlement at the Revolution, were comparatively
numerous in the surrounding district ; and, on 20 Nov.
1706, about 200 of them rode into the town, issued
a manifesto against the impending union of Scotland and
England, and burned the articles of union at the cross,
but did not succeed in precipitating the town into any seri-
ous disaster. In October 1715 word was brought to the
magistrates that the Jacobite gentry of the neighbour-
hood had formed a design to surprise the town ; and, it
being the sacramental fast-day, and the provincial synod
being then in session, the clergy mustered their fencible
parishioners, so that 'a crowd of stout Whigs flocked in
from tlie surrounding districts and villages, with their
broad bonnets and grey hose, some of them mounted on
their plough-horses, others on foot.' That vcrv evening
they were joined by a strange ally, no other tnan Simon
Eraser, the infamous Lord Lovat, who, with five fol-
lowers, all armed to the teeth, rode up to the head inn,
395
DUMFRIES
e)i route from London to the North. Hill Burton de-
scribes the suspicions aroused by the presence of this
large, square-built, peculiar-looking man ; how, having
shown his credentials, he presently helped to bring
in the Jlarquis of Annandale, beset by the Jacobites
under Viscount Kenmure ; and how their courteous and
partly convivial meeting was interrupted by a rumour
of attack, a body of horse having ridden up close to
the town.* A Jiarty of the townspeople, during the
insurrection of 1745, cut off at Lockerbie a detach-
ment of the Highlanders' baggage ; and, in conse-
quence, drew upon Dumfries a severer treatment from
Prince Charles Eilward than was inflicted on any other
to^vn of its size. Prince Charles, on his retui'n from
England, let loose his mountaineers to live at free
quarters in Dumfries ; and he levied the excise of the
town, and demanded from its authorities a contribution
of £2000 and of 1000 pairs of shoes ; but, an alarm having
reached him that the Duke of Cumberland had mastered
the garrison left at Carlisle and was marching rapidly on
Dutafries, he hastily broke away northward, accepting for
the present £1100 for his required exaction, and taking
hostages for the payment of the remainder. The town
suffered loss to the amount of about £4000 by his visit,
besides the damage caused by the plundering of his troops;
but, in acknowledgment of its loyalty to the Crown, and
as part compensation for its loss, it afterwards got £2800
from the forfeited estate of Lord Elcho. Later events
have mainly been either commercial, political, or social ;
and, with the exception of a dire visitation of cholera (15
Sept. to 27 Nov. 1832), by which nearly 500 perished,
they have left no considei'able mark on its annals. It
may, however, be noticed that the Highland and Agri-
cultural Society has held its meeting here in 1830, 1837,
1845, 1860, 1870, and 1878. The town, on the whole
since 1746, has plenteously participated in the benign
effects of peace and enlightenment ; and, though mov-
ing more slowly than some other towns in the course of
aggrandisement, it has been excelled by none in the
graceftilness of its progress, and in the steadiness and
substantiality of its improvement.
The title Earl of Dumfries, in the peerage of Scot-
land, conferred in 1633 on the seventh Baron Crichton
of Sanquhar, passed in 1694 to an heiress who man-ied
the second son of the first Earl of Stair. Her eldest
son, William, who succeeded her in 1742 as fourth Earl
of Dimifries and his brother James in 1760 as fomth
Earl of Stair, died mtliout issue in 1768, when the
former title devolved on his nephew, Patrick Mac-
dowall of Feugh (1726-1803), whose daughter married
the eldest son of the first Marquis of Bute ; and the
title now is borne by her great-grandson, John (b. 1881),
son and heir of the present Marquis of Bute. On the
towii's roll of fame are the following eminent natives or
residents, the former distinguished by an asterisk : —
The Rev. "William Veitch, who was minister of Dumfries
during the conflict between Presbji;erianism and E])is-
copacy, and whose biography was Avritten by the Rev.
Dr M'Crie ; the Rev. Dr Henry Duncan of Ruthwell
(1774-1846), author of the Philosophy of the Seasons,
who started the Courier, and founded here the earliest
of all savings' banks, and a statue of whom is in front
of the Savings' Bank building ; * Dr Benjamin Bell
(1749-1806), the eminent surgeon; Sir Andrew Halliday
(1783-1839), a famous physician, who spent his latter
years and died in Dumfries ; * Sir John Richardson
(1787-1865), the surgeon and naturalist of Sir John
Franklin's overland Polar expedition ; *Sir James An-
derson (b. 1824), the telegraph manager; *Gen. William
M'Murdo, C.B. (b. 1819), the son-in-law and favourite
officer of Sir Charles Najiier, the hero of Scinde ; John
M'Diarmid (1790-1852), editor of the Scrap Book, author
of Sketches from Nature and a Life of Cowpcr, and for 35
years the talented conductor of the Dumfries Courier ;
Thomas Aird (1802-76), the well-known poet, and editor
of the Dumfriesshire Herald from 1835 to 1863 ; William
* It is noteworthy that tlie first book printed nt Dumfries was
Peter Rae's Ilhtonj of Vie Rebellion in Scotland, in Dumfries,
Galloway, etc. (1718).
396
DUMFRIES
M'Dowall (b. 1815), author of the Man of (he Woods and
of the Eistory of Dumfries, and editor of the Dumfries
Standard from 1846; * James Hannay (1827-73), author
of Eustace Conyers, Singleton Fontcnoy, and other works
of fiction; *Dr Robert Carruthers (1799-1878), of Inver-
ness, but long connected with Dumfries, the author of a
Life of Pope, the Highland Note-Book, the Encyclopccdia
of English Literature, etc., and of ten Dumfries Por-
traits, which appeared in the Dumfriesshire Monthly
Magazine, begun in 1821 ; William Bennet, editor of
the three volumes of the Dumfries Monthly Magazine,
begun in 1825 ; Allan Cunningham, John Mayne,
Robert Anderson, Joseph Train, Robert Malcolmson,
Dr Broivne, and Dr John Gibson, who contrilnited
largely to these two periodicals ; the Rev. William
Dunbar, editor of the Nifhsdale Minstrel, a volume of
original poetry published in 1815 ; William Paterson
(1658-1719), the founder of the Bank of England, and
the projector of the Darien Expedition ; Patrick IMiller
of Dalswinton (1731-1815), the distinguished inventor
and agriculturist; *Robert Thorburn, A.R.A. (b. 1818),
the famous miniature painter ; Kennedy, the landscape
painter; Dunbar and Currie, the sculptors; * James
Pagan (1811-70), journalist ; * Joseph Irving (b. 1830),
historian and annalist; Thomas Carlyle (1795-1881), a
Svriter of books;' *John Mayne (1759-1846), minor
poet and journalist ; and not a few besides.
The parish, containing also the villages of George-
town, Gasstown, and Locharbriggs, with part of the
village of Kelton, is bounded NAV by Holj^wood and
Kirkmahoe, NE by Tinwald, E by Torthorwald, S by
Caerlaverock, and AV by Troqueer and Terregles in Kirk-
cudbrightshire. Its greatest length, from N to S, is 6f
miles ; its greatest breadth is 3J miles ; and its area is
10,200 acres, of which 69^ are foreshore and 98^ water.
The NiTH winds 7 miles south-by-eastward along all
the boundary with Holj^wood and Kirkcudbrightshire,
and sluggish Lochaii Water 7i south-south-eastward
along that with Tinwald and Torthorwald. Near Loch-
thorn, 2h miles NNE of the town, is a little lake (1^ x f
furl.), which, in time of hard frost, is much frequented
by skaters and curlers. A mineral spring, called
Crichton's AVell, occurs in Lochar Moss ; another, a
strong chalybeate, on Fountainbleau farm. The pictur-
esque low height of Clumpton rises 2 miles NE of the
town ; and an undulating low eminence, as formerly
noticed, forms chief part of the site of the town, south-
ward of which another low ridge of hills runs nearly
parallel to the Nith, at about lialf a mile's distance,
into Caerlaverock ; and rises at Trohoughton to 312 feet.
The rest of the surface is nearly a dead level, sink-
ing to 40, and rarely exceeding 100, feet. The western
face of the ridge, overlooking the Nith, is gently sloping,
and highly embellished ; but the eastern breaks down
in abrupt declivities, presents a bold front and a com-
manding outline, and forms, about 1^ mile from the
town, two precipitous ledges, called the Maiden Bower
Craigs, one of them containing a remarkable cavity,
said to have been used by those mythic beings, the
Druids, as a sort of 'St Wilfrid's needle,' or ordeal of
chastity. A broad belt of Lochar Moss, along the
eastern border, continued all sheer morass down into
the i)resent century, but now is extensively reclaimed,
and partly clothed with verdure or Mith wood. Permian
sandstone is the prevailing rock, and has been largely
quarried. The soil, in the SW, is a pretty strong clay ;
in the flat lands by the Nith, is mostly clay incumbent
on gravel ; in the N and NK, is a light reddish sandy
earth resting on sandstone ; and in the E, is either native
moss, reclaimed moss, or humus. Nearly four-fifths of the
entire area are rctjularly or occasionally in tillage, some
350 acres are under wood, and nearly all the rest of the
land is capable of remunerative reclamation or culture.
An ancient castle of the Comyns stood ^ mile SSE of
the town, on a spot overlooking a beautiful bend of the
Nith, and still called Castledykes. A meadow near it
bears the name of Kingholm, and may have got that
name either by corruption of Comyn's holm or in honour
of Robert Uruce. Another meadow, by the riverside
DUMFRIES HOUSE
northward of the town, is called the Nunholm, from its
lying opposite the ancient Benedictine nunnery of
Lincluden. This parish is the seat of both a pres-
bytery and a synod, and it is divided ecclesiasti-
cally into the three parishes of St ilichael, Greyfriars,
and" St Mary, the value of the two first livings being
£436 and £336. Valuation, exclusive of burgh, (1882)
£20,877, 18s. Id. Pop. of entire parish (1801) 7288,
(1831) 11,606, (1861) 13,523, (1871) 14,841, (1881)
16,839.— (9/-fZ. Sur., shs. 10, 9, 1864-63.
The presbytery of Dumfries comprises the old par-
ishes of Caeriaverock, Colvend, Dumfries-St Michael,
Dunifries-Gre3rfriars, Dunscore, Holywood, Kirkbean,
Kirkgunzeon, Kirkmahoe, Kirkpatrick-Durham, Kirk-
patrick-Irongray, Lochrutton, Newabbey, Terregles,
Tinwald, Torthorwald, Troqueer, and Urr, and the
quoad sacra parishes of Dumfries-St Marv, Dalbeattie,
and MaxweUtown. Pop. (1871) 38,967, (1881) 41,099,
of whom 7072 were communicants of the Church of
Scotland in 1878. — The Free Church also has a presby-
tery of Dumfries, with 3 churches in Dumfries, 2 at
Dunscore, and 12 at Corsock, Dalbeattie, Dalton, Glen-
caple, Hightae, Irongray, Kirkbean, Kirkmahoe, Kirk-
patrick-Durham, Maxwelltown, Newabbey, and Ruth-
well, which 17 had together 3216 members in 1881. —
The tr. P. Synod likewise has a presbytery of Dumfries,
with 3 churches in Dumfries, 2 in Sanquhar, and 10
at Burnhead, Castle-Douglas, Dalbeattie, Dairy, Dun-
score, Lochmaben, Mainsriddle, Moniaive, Thomhill,
and Urr, which together had 2814 members in 1880.
The synod of Dumfries comprises the presbyteries
of Dumfries, Lochmaben, Langholm, Annan, and Pen-
pont. Pop. (1871) 94,023, (1881) 96,018, of whom
17,897 were communicants of the Church of Scotland
in 1878. — The Free Church also has a synod of Dum-
fries, comprising presbyteries of Dumfries, Lockerbie,
and Penpont, and superintending thirty-four congrega-
tions, which together had 7256 members in 1881.
See John M'Diarmid's Picture of Dumfries and. its
Environs (Edinb. 1832) ; William WDov;&\\'s History of
the Burgh of Dumfries ; with Notices of Nithsda.le,
Awiiandale, and the Western Border (Edinb. 1867 ; 2d
ed. 1873) ; and his MemoriaAs of St Miclw,el's, the Old
Parish Churchyard, of Dumfries (Edinb. 1876).
Dumfries House, a seat of the Marquis of Bute in
Old Cumnock parish, Ayrshire, near the left bank of
Lugar Water, 2 miles W of Cumnock town, and | mile
N of Dumfries House station on the Ayr and Cumnock
section of the Glasgow and South-Western, this being
loi miles E by S of Ayr. Built about 1757 by William
Dalrymple, fourth Earl of Dumfries, it has a drawing-
TDom htmg with very fine old tapestry, said to have been
presented by Louis XIV. to one of the former Earls,
and stands amid finely wooded grounds that contain the
ruins of Terringzean Castle, and extend into Auchinleck
parish, on the opposite bank of the Lugar, which here is
spanned by an elegant bridge. The ilarquis holds
113,734 acres in Ayrshire, valued at £25,263 per annum,
including £2506 for minerals. — Ord. Sur., sh. 14, 1863.
Dumfriesshire, a coast and Border county in the S of
Scotland. It is bounded N by Lanark, Peebles, and
Selkirk shires ; NE by Roxburghshire ; SE by Cumber-
land ; S by the Solway Firth ; SW by Kirkcudbright-
shire ; and XW by Ayrshire. Its length, from W to E,
varies between 21 and 46i miles ; its breadth, from N
to S, between 13 and 32 miles; and its area is 1103
square miles or 705,945| acres, of which 20,427 are
foreshore and 5301^ water. Its outline is irregularly
ellipsoidal, being indented to the depth of 13 miles
by the southern extremity of Lanarkshire, and to the
depth of of miles by Ettrick Head in Selkirkshire.
Its boundary line, over all the W, NW, N, and NE,
to the aggregate extent of 120 miles, is mainly moun-
tain watershed ; over most of the march witli Cum-
berland, to the aggregate extent of 11 miles, is variously
Liddel Water, Esk river, and Sark Water ; over all the S,
to the extent of 21 miles, is the Solway Firth ; along the
SW, to the extent of 15 miles, is the river Nith and Cluden
Water. The summits on or near the upland boundary line
DUMFRIESSHIRE
include Auchenchain (1271 feet) and Blackcraig (1961)
at the Kirkcudbrightshire border ; Blacklorg (2231),
M'Crierick's Cairn (1824), and Halfmerk Hill (1478), at
the Ayrshire border ; Mount Stuart (1567), Wanlock
Dod (1808), Lowther HUl (2377), Well Hill (1987),
Wedder Law (2185), and Queensberry (2285), at the
Lanarkshire border ; HartfeU (2651) and White Coomb
(2695), at the Peeblesshire border ; Herman Law (2014),
Andrewhinney (2220), Bodesbeck Law (2173), Capel Fell
(2223), Ettrick Pen (2269), Quickningair Hill (1601),
and Black Knowe (1481), at the Selkirkshire border ;
and Stock Hill (1561), Roan Fell (1862), and Watch
Hill (1642), at the Roxburghshire border.
All the northern part of the county is prevailingly
upland. Mountains or high hills, with similar altitudes
to those on the boundary line, and intersected with only
a small aggregate of glens or vales, occupy all the north-
western, the northern, and the north-eastern border to
a mean breadth of 7 or 8 miles ; and spurs or prolonga-
tions of them strike south-eastward, southward, and
south-westward, to lengths of from 2 or 3 to 7 or 8 miles,
sometimes shooting into summits nearly as high as those
on the borders, but generally sinking into low hills, and
separated from one another by broadening vales. These
uplands constitute a large and prominent portion of the
Southern Highlands of Scotland ; but they differ much,
in both segregation and contour, from the upland masses
of most of the Northern Highlands. Few or none of
the mountains have the ridgy elongations, the rugged,
craggy outlines, or the towering peaked summits so
common in Argj'll, Perth, Inverness, and Ross shires ;
but almost all of them, whether on the borders or in the
interior, lie adjoined in groups, rise from narrow bases
over rounded shoulders, and have summits variously
domical, conical, and tabular or flat. Three of the most
remarkable of the interior heights are Caimkinna (1813
feet) in Penpont, Langholm Hill (1161) in the vicinity
of Langholm, and Brunswark Hill (920) in the NE of
Hoddam, all three having forms of peculiar character,
quite in contrast to those prevailing in the Northern
Highlands. The region southward of the uplands breaks
into three great valleys or basins, traversed by the rivers
Nith, Annan, and Esk ; and is intersected, between the
Nith and the Annan, to the extent of about 7 miles
southward from the vicinity of Amisfield, by the range
of the Tinwald, Torthorwald, and Mouswald Hills, with
curved outlines, cultivated surfaces, and altitudes of
from 500 to 800 feet above sea-level, and commanding
gorgeous, extensive, diversified prospects. The basias
of the Annan and the Esk S of a line drawn from
Whinnyrig, past Ecclefechan, Craigshaws, Solway Bank,
and Brooinholm, to ;Moorbumhead, cease to be valleys,
or are flattened into plains, variegated only by occa-
sional rising-grounds or low hUls, either round-backed
or obtusely conical. The valley of ihe Nith also, for
10 miles before it touches the Solway, is in all respects
a plain, ^vith exception of a short range of low hills in
Dumfries and Caerlaverock parishes and a few unini-
portant isolated eminences ; and the E wing of it,
partly going flatly from it to the base of the Tinwald
HiUs, partly going southward, thence past the smaU
Dumfries and Caerlaverock range to the Solway Firth, is
the dead level of Lochar Moss.
The river Nith and one or two of its unimportant and
remote tributaries enter Dumfriesshire through openings
or gorges in its north-western boundaries, and a small
tributary of the Annan enters through a gorge in the
N ; but all other streams which anywhere traverse the
county rise within its own limits. The Nith, from the
point of entering it, and the Annan and the Esk, from
short distances below the source, draw toward them
nearly all the other streams, so as to form the county
into three great valleys or basins, but the Nith giving
the lower part of the right side of its basin to Kirkcud-
brightshire, and the Esk going entirely in its lower part
into England. The tliree rivers all pursue a south-
south-easterly course— the Nith in the W, the Annan in
the middle, and the Esk in the E; and, with the
exception of some small curvings, they flow parallel to
^ 397
DUMFRIESSHIRE
one another, at au average distance of about 12 miles,
imposing upon their own and their tributaries' basins
the names of respectivelj' Nithsdale, Annandale, and
Eskdale. The streams whicli run into them are very
numerous, j-et mostly of short course, of small volume,
and remarkable chiefly for the beauty or picturesqueness
of the ravines or the dells which they traverse. The
chief of those which enter the Nith are, from the W,
the Kello, the Euchan, the Scar, the Cairn, and the
Cluden ; from the E, the Crawick, the Minnick, the
Enterkin, the Carron, the Cample, and the Duncow.
The chief which enter the Annan are, from the "\V, the
Evan and the Kinnel ; from the E, the Moffat, the
Wamphray, the Dryfe, the Milk, and the Mein. The
chief which enter the Esk are, from the W, the Black
Esk and the Wauchope ; from the E, the Megget,
the Ewes, the Tanas, and the Liddel. Four rivulets,
each 10 miles or more in length, have an indepen-
dent course southward to the Solway — the Lochar
and the Cummertrees Pow in the space between the
Nith and the Annan ; the Kirtle and the Sark in the
space between the Annan and the Esk. Several of the
tributary streams, like the three main ones, give their
names to their own basins — the Jloffat, the Dryfe, and
the Ewes in particular giving to their basins the names
of Moffatdale, Dryfesdale, and Ewesdale. A gi'oup of
lakes, the largest of them Castle Loch (6x5^ furl.),
lies near Lochmaben ; and dark Loch Skene (6 x If
furl. ), remarkable for emitting the torrent of the ' Grey
I*Iare's Tail, ' lies on the N border at the source of Moffat
Water. Pure springs are almost everywhere abundant ;
chah'beate springs are near Moffat, Annan, and Ruth-
well ; and sulphureous at Moflat and Closeburn House.
The Geology. — The oldest rocks in Dumfriesshire are of
Silurian age, consisting mainly of greywackes, flagstones,
and shales, belonging to the upper and lower divisions
of that formation. A line drawn from the head of Ewes
"Water in Eskdale, south-westwards by Lockerbie toMous-
wald, marks the boundarj' between the two divisions,
the Lower Silurian rocks being met with to the N of
this limit. The members of both series have been much
folded ; but by means of the lithological characters of
the strata, and with the aid of certain fossiliferous bands
of shales yielding graptolites, it is possible to determine
the order of succession. In the neighbourhood of Moffat
the fossiliferous black shales of the lower division are
typically developed, where they have been divided into
several well-marked zones by means of the graptolites
which occur in them in profusion. They are admirably
displayed at Dobbs Lynn, near the head of Moffat-
dale, and in the streams on the S side of the Moffat
valley. The Silurian rocks, ■which now form the great
mass of high ground throughout the county, were ele-
vated so as to form a land barrier towards the close of
the Silui'ian period. In the hollows worn out of this
ancient tableland, the strata belonging to the Old Red
Sandstone, Carboniferous, and Permian periods were de-
posited. But even these newer palaeozoic formations have
been so denuded that only isolated fragments remain
of what once were more extensive deposits.
Along the county boundary in Uiipcr Nithsdale the
representatives of the Lower Old Red Sandstone are met
with, where they consist of sandstones and conglome-
rates, associated with contemporaneous volcanic rot^ks.
They form part of the great belt of Lower Old Red
strata stretching from the Braid Hills near Edinburgh
into Ayrshire. The Upper Old Red Sandstone, on the
other hand, forms a narrow fringe underlying the car-
boniferous rocks from the county boundary E of the Ewes
Water south-westwards by Langholm to Brunswark. At
the base they consist of conglomeratic sandstones, the
included pebbles having been derived from the waste of
the Silurian flagstones and shales. These are overlaid
by friable Red sandstones and marls, which pass con-
formably underneath the zone of volcanic materials
which always intervene between them and the overlying
Carboniferous strata. The zone of igneous rocks just
referred to is specially interesting, as it points to the
existence of volcanic action on the S side of the Silurian
398
DUMFRIESSHIRE
tableland at the beginning of the Carboniferous period.
The igneous rocks consist mainly of slaggy and amygda-
loidal porphyrites, which were spread over the ancient
sea bottom as regular lava flows. Brunswark Hill is
made up of this igneous material. Some of the volcanic
orifices from which the igneous materials were dis-
charged are still to be met M-ith along the watershed
between Liddesdale and Teviotdale in the adjacent
county of Roxburgh.
The carboniferous rocks are met with in three separate
areas: — (1.) in the district lying between Langholm and
Ruthwell ; (2.) at Closeburn near Thornhill; (3.) in the
neighbourhood of Sanquhar. The first of these areas is
the most extensive, measuring aliout 22 miles in length,
and varying in breadth from 2 to 7 miles. The strata
included in it belong to the Calciferous Sandstone series
which forms the lowest subdivision of the Carboniferous
formation. The following zones were made out in the
course of the geological survey of the district. They
are given in descending order : — (7. ) Canonbie coals ;
(6.) Marine Limestone series of Penton, Gilnockie, and
Ecclefechan ; (5.) Volcanic zone of fine tuff and porphy-
rite, including about 50 feet of fine shales ; (4.) Irvine
Burn and Woodcock air sandstones ; (3. ) Tarras Water-
foot Cementstone series ; (2.) White sandstones ; (1.)
Brunswark and Ward Law volcanic rocks.
The recent discovery which has proved so interesting
and important was met with in the fine shales of zone
(5) and partly in zone (3). Upwards of twenty new
species of ganoid fishes were obtained from these
beds near Langholm, and out of the sixteen genera
to which these species belong five are new to science.
Very few of the species are common to the carboniferous
rocks of the Lothians, which has an important bearing
on the history of that period. Along with the fishes
were found about twelve new species of decapod crus-
taceans and three new species of a new genus of Phyllo-
pods. Of special importance is the discovery of four
new species of scorpions. Hitherto the occurrence of
fossil scorpions in rocks of Carboniferous age has been
extremely rare. The specimens recently obtained are
admirably preserved, and from a minute examination of
them it is evident that they closely resemble their living
representatives. The remains of several new plants
were also found in the fine shales already referred to.
Within the Silurian area. Carboniferous rocks are met
with in the Thornhill and Sanquhar basins. These
deposits lie in ancient hollows worn out of the Silurian
tableland which date back as far as the Carboniferous
period. At Closeburn and Barjarg there are beds of
marine limestone associated with sandstones and shales
which probably belong to the Calciferous Sandstone
series. Again, at the south-eastern limit of the Sanquhar
coalfield there are small outliers of the Carl)onif'erous
Limestone series, consisting of sandstones, shales, and
thin fossiliferous limestones. The latter rapidly thin
out, and the true coal measures rest directly on, the
Silurian platform. From these facts it would appear
that in Upper Nithsdale the Silurian barrier did not
sink beneath the sea-level till the latter part of the
Carboniferous period, not in fact till the time of the
deposition of the coal measures. The Sanquhar coal-
field is about 9 miles in length, and from 2 to 4 miles
in breadth. It contains several valuable coal seams,
and from the general character of the strata it is pro-
bable that they are the southern prolongations of the
Ayrshire coal measures. Another fact deserves to be
mentioned here, which was established in the course of
the survey of the county. The Canonbie coal seams do
not belong to the true Coal Pleasures as has hitherto
been supposed, but are regularly intercalated with the
members of the Calciferous Sandstone series.
The strata next in order are of Permian age which
are invariably separated from the Carboniferous rocks
by a marked unconformity. Indeed so violent is the
unconformity that we find the Permian strata to the
E of Lochar Moss stealing across the edges of the Cal-
ciferous Sandstone beds till they rest directly on the
Silurian rocks.
DUMFRIESSHIRE
Permian strata occur in five separate areas — 1 at Moffat,
2 at LocliHiaben and Corncockle Moor, 3 between Annan
and the mouth of the Esk, 4 the Dumfries basin, 5 the
Thornhill basin. In addition to these areas there is a
small patch of contemporaneous igneous rocks overlying
the Sanr^uliar coallield, which is believed to be of the same
age. In the neighbourhood of Moffat the breccias are
evidently an ancient morainic deposit of glacial origin.
Several well-striated stones were found in them resemb-
ling the scratched stones in ordinarj' boulder clay. In
the red sandstones of Corncockle Moor reptilian foot-
prints have been detected, produced by reptiles mov-
ing in a S direction, which led to the witty remark of
Dean Buckland ' that even at that early date the migra-
tion from Scotland to England had commenced.' Be-
tween Annan and Canonbie the strata consist of red
sandstones, while in the Dumfries basin the red sand-
stones of Locharbriggs are overlaid by an alternation of
red sandstones and breccias. An interesting feature
connected with the Thornhill basin is the occurrence
of contemporaneous volcanic rocks at the base of the
series. They form a continuous ring I'ound the northern
half of the basin cropping out from underneath the
breccias and red sandstones. In the Sanquhar basin
also there are several 'necks' or volcanic vents filled
■with agglomerate, which in all likelihood mark the
sites from which lavas of Permian age were discharged.
It is interesting to note the proofs of the original ex-
tension of the Permian strata over areas from which they
have been completely removed by denudation. Some of
the Carboniferous strata in the Sanquhar coal-field have
been stained red by infiltration of iron oxide, and in the
S of the county the Calcifei'ous Sandstone beds overlying
the Canonbie coals have been so much reddened as to
resemble externally the Permian sandstones. Even on
Eskdalemuir the Silurian greywackes have been stained
in a similar manner. In these cases the older rocks
■were buried underneath strata of Permian age from
■R'hich the percolating water derived the iron oxide.
Within the limits of the county there are intrusive
igneous rocks of which the most conspicuous example is
the mass of granite on Spango AVater, about 5 miles N
of Sanquhar. This mass is about 3 miles long, and
upwards of 1 mile in breadth. There are also dykes or
veins of felstone and basalt. One example of the latter
deserves special notice. It has been traced from the
Leadhills south-eastwards by Moffat, across Eskdalemuir
by Langholm to the English border. In texture it varies
from a dolerite to tachylite, -which is the glassy form of
basalt.
Only a passing allusion can be made to the proofs of
glaciation which are so abundant throughout the county.
During the period of extreme glaciation the general trend
of the ice sheet was SE towards the Solway Firth and
the English border. The widespread covering of boulder
clay which is now found in the upland vallej's and on
the low grounds is the relic of this ancient glaciation.
But in the valleys draining the main masses of high
ground there are numerous moraines deposited by local
glaciers. Amongst the finest examples are those round
Loch Skene at the head of Motfatdale.
Economic Minerals. — Coal seams occur at Sanquhar
and Canonbie, and limestone at Closeburn, Barjarg,
Kelhead, and Harelaw Hill, Liddesdale. Veins of
silver and lead ore are met with at Wanlockhead, anti-
mony at Glendinning and Meggat Water. The building
stones in greatest demand are the white sandstones of
the Carboniferous formation, the Permian red sandstones
of Thornhill, Dumfries, Corncockle, and Annan ; while
in the neighbourhood of Moffat the coarse grits of
Silurian age are much used. (B. N. Peach, F.K.S.E.,
and J. Home, F.R.S.E., of the Geological Survey of
Scotland. )
The soil in the mountain districts is mainly moorish,
mostly unsuitable for tillage, and partly irreclaimable ;
but in places where it has a dry subsoil, is capable of
gradual transmutation into loam. The soil, in the low-
land districts, is generally of a light nature, incumbent
on either rock, gravel, or sand; in Nithsdale and Annan-
DUMFRIESSHIBE
dale, is mostly dry ; in Eskdale, is generally wzt ; in
some places, -vvliere it lies on a retentive subsoil, is cold,
and occasions rankness of vegetation ; in considerable
tracts of the outspread plain, is of a loamy character,
rich in vegetable mould ; on the gentle slopes of the
midland district, is an intermixture of loam with other
soils ; on the swells or knolls of the valleys, and even
of the bogs, is of a gravelly or sandy character ; on the
margins of streams, is alluvium, or what is here called
holm-land, generally poor and shallow in the upland
dells, but generally rich and deep in the lowland valleys.
Cla}', as a soil, seldom occurs, except as mixed with
other substances ; but, as a subsoil, is extensively found,
either white, blue, or red, under the greensward of
hills, and beneath soft bogs. Peat-moss exists in great
expanses both on the hills and in the vales ; and wherever
it so lies as to be amenable to drainage, is of such a
character as to be convertable into good soil. Sea-silt,
or the saline muddy deposit from the waters of the Sol-
way, spreads extensively out from the estuary of the
Lochar, and both forms a productive soil in itself, and
serves as an effective top-dressing for the adjacent peat-
moss. The percentage of cultivated area is 32 '5 ; 27,472
acres are under wood ; and little short of two-thirds of
the entire county is either pastoral or waste.
Arable farms range mostly between 100 and 150 acres,
yet vary from 60 to SOO ; and sheep-farms range from
300 to 3000 acres. Some farms, chiefly along the
mutual border of the upland and the lowland regions,
are both pastoral and arable, and are regarded as par-
ticularly convenient and remunerative ; and these
comprise about one-third of the total acreage under
rotation of crops. The cattle, for the dairy, are mostly
of the Ayrshire breed ; for the shambles or for exporta-
tion, are mostly of the Galloway breed. The sheep, on
the uplands, are either black-faced or Cheviots ; in the
lowlands are a mixe^l breed, resulting fi'om crosses of
the Cheviots with Leicesters, Southdowns, and Spanish
breeds. The draught horses are of the Clydesdale breed.
Pigs are raised chiefly for exportation of pork and bacon
into England ; and they have, for many years, been an
object of general attention among both farmers and
cotters. The value of the pork produced rose from
£500 in 1770 to £12,000 in 1794, to £60,000 in 1812,
and to £100,000 in 1867, since which last year it has
somewhat fallen off, there being only 10,286 pigs in the
county in 1881 against 15,088 in 1877, and 18,612 in
1866.
The commerce of the county is all conducted through
Dumfries and its sub-ports. Manufactures in hosiery and
tweeds have recently become important in Dumfries ; but
manufactures in other departments, either there or
throughout the county, are of comparatively small
amount. Hosiery employs many looms in Thornhill,
Lochmaben, and other townis and villages ; woollen
fabrics, of various kinds, are made at Sanquhar and
Moftat ; ginghams are manufactured at Sanquhar and
Annan ; muslins, at Kii'kconnel ; com'se linens, at
Langholm. Weaving, in difi'erent departments, em-
ploys many hands ; artificership, in all the ordinary
departments, emplo3-s many more ; and operations con-
nected with coal and lead-mining employ a few. The
energies of the county, as compared with those of other
counties, either in Scotland or in England, are not
small ; but, partly in consequence of dearth of coal,
partly for other reasons, they are mainly absorbed
in the pursuits and accessories of agricidture ; and
yet, since at least the commencement of the present
century, they have been so spent as to produce an
amount of prosperity scarcely, if at all, inferior to what
has been realised in other counties. The roads, the
fences, the dwelling-houses, the churches, the people's
dress, and the people's manners in Dumfriesshire, taken
as indices of progress and refinement, will bear compari-
son with those of any other district in Great Britain.
Tlic railways within the county are the Glasgow and
South-Western, down Nithsdale, and across the foot of
Annandale ; the Caledonian, down tlie entire length of
Annandale ; the Dumfries and Lockerbie, across the
399
DUMFRIESSHIRE
interior from Dnmfiies to Lockerbie ; the Solway Junc-
tion, in the S of Aunandale, from the Caledonian near
Kirtlebridge to the Solway Firth near Annan ; small
Sart of the Castle-Douglas and Dumfries, on the W bor-
er of Dumfries parish ; and branches of the Hawick and
Carlisle section of the North British to Langholm and
Gretna.
The quoad dvilia parishes, inclusive of two whi^'h
extend slightly into Lanarkshire, amount to 43. The
royal burghs are Dumfries, Annan, Lochmaben, and
Sanquhar. The liurghs of barony are ^lolfat, Lockerbie,
Langholm, Ecclefechan, Thornhill, and Moniaive. The
principal villages ai-e Springfield, Eaglesfield, Sunnybrae,
Bridekirk, Gasstown, Heathery Row, Hightae, Park, Dun-
reggan. Rowan Burn, Wanlockhead, Greenbrae, Glen-
caple, Torthorwald, Roucan, Collin, Penpont, Kirkcounel,
Kirtlebridge, "Waterbeck, Doniock, Cummcrtrees, Ruth-
well, Clarencefield, Mouswald, Closeburn, Holywood,
Kelton, Locharbriggs, Amisfield, Dalswinton,"\Vamphray,
Carronbridge, and Crawick ilill. The principal seats
are Drumlanrig Castle, Langholm Lodge, Castlemilk,
Kinmount, Kinharvey House, Glen Stewart, Tinwald
House, Comlongan Castle, Dumcrieft" House, Springkell,
Jardine Hall, "Rockhall, Westerhall, Raehills, Craw-
fordton, Amisfield House, Closeburn Hall, Dalswinton
House, Hoddam Castle, JMossknow, Halleaths, Mount
Annan, Craigdarroch, Blackwood House, JIurraythwaite,
Broomholm, Barjarg Tower, Speddoch, Dormont, Elshie-
shields, Canisalloch, Conlieath, Capenoch, Courance,
Glenae, Kirkmichael House, Rammerscales, Craigielands,
Corehead, Langshaw, Cove, Maxwelltown House, AVar-
manbie, Bonshaw, Northfield, Boreland, Broorarig,
Cowhill, Portrack, Gribton, Newtonairds, Milnhead,
Bumfoot, Lanrick, and Corehead. According to Mis-
cellaneous Statistics of the United Kingdom (1879),
676,971 acres, with a total gross estimated rental of
£595,512, were divided among 4177 landowners, one
holding 253,514 acres (rental £97,530), one 64,079
(£27,884), six together 82,759 (£50,690), twelve 81,881
(£59,150), t-wenty-six 76,576 (£50,977), twenty-eight
36,800 (£26,318), fifty-three 37,505 (£129,105), etc.
The covmty is governed (1882) by a lord-lieutenant,
a vice-lieutenant, 11 deputy-lieutenants, a sheriff, a
sheriff-substitute, and 97 magistrates. The principal
courts are held at Dumfries ; and sheriff small-debt
courts are held at Annan on the first Tuesdaj' of
January, ilaj-, and September ; at Langholm on the
third Saturday of January, May, and September ; at
Lockerbie on the first Thursday of April, August, and
December ; at Mofiat on the first Friday of April,
August, and December ; and at Thornhill on the second
Thursday of April, August, and December. The police
force, in 1881, besides 10 men for Dumfries and 2 for
Annan, comprised 35 men ; and the salary of the chief
constable was £400. The nimiber of persons tried at
the instance of the police, in 1880, besides those in
Dmnfries and Annan, was 785 ; convicted, 749 ; com-
mitted for trial, 38 ; not dealt with, 226. Tlie coiuity
prison is at Dumfries. The committals ibr crime, in the
yearly average of 1836-40, were 71 ; of 1841-45, 96 ;
of 1846-50, 209 ; of 1851-55, 141 ; of 1856-60, 99 ; of
1861-65, 50 ; of 1865-69, 29 ; of 1871-75, 50 ; and of
1876-80, 50. The annual value of real property, as-
sessed at £295,621 in 1815, Avas £319,751 in 1843,
£350,636 in 1861, and £572,945 in 1882, including
£75,286 for railways. The four royal burghs, together
with Kirkcudbright, send one member to parliament,
and the rest of tlie county sends another, and had a con-
stituency of 3469 in 1882. Pop. (1801) 54,597, (1811)
62,960, (1821) 70,878, (1831) 73,770,(1841) 72,830,
(1851) 78,123, (1861) 75,878, (1871) 74,808, (1881)
76,124, of whom 35,956 were males. Houses (1881)
15,656 inhabited, 835 vacant, 109 building.
The registration county takes in small parts of Moffat
and Kirkpatrick-Juxta parislies from Lauarksliire ; and
had, in liSl, a population of 76,151. All tlie parishes
are assessed for the poor. Dumfries parish has a poor-
house for itself ; and respectively 6 and 9 jjarishes form
the poor-law combiuatious of Kirkpatrick-Flenung and
400
DUMFRIESSHIRE
Upper Nithsdale. The number of registered poor, in
the year ending 14 May 1880, was 1688 ; of dependants
on these, 872 ; of casual poor, 1312 ; of dependants on
these, 1007. The receij)ts for the poor, in that year,
were £19,638, Is. 6jd ; and the expenditure was
£19,446, 8s. lOd. The number of pauper lunatics was
211, their cost being £3816, 18s. 8d. The percentage
of illegitimate births was 15-9 in 1872, 157 in 1877,
13-5 in 1S79, and 13-8 in 1880.
Dumfriesshire, in the times of Established Episcopacy,
formed part of the diocese of Glasgow, and was divided
into the deaneries of Nithsdale and Annandale. And
now, under Established Presbyterianism, it lies wholly
within the province of the sjmod of Dumfries, but does
not constitute all that proA-ince. Its parishes are dis-
tributed among the presbyteries of Dumfries, Annan,
Lochmaben, Langholm, and Penpont ; but those in
Dumfries presbytery are conjoined with 12 in Kirkcud-
brightshire, those in Langholm presbytery with Castle-
ton in Roxburghshire. In 1882 the places of worship
A^-ithin the county were 49 Established (14,373 com-
mimicants in 1878), 27 Free (5882 members in 1881),
22 U.P. (4381 members in 1880), 2 Independent, 4
Evangelical Union, 1 Baptist, 1 Methodist chapel, 3
Episcopal, and 2 Roman Catholic. In the year ending
30 Sept. 1880, the county had 115 schools (96 of them
public), which, with accommodation for 15,126 children,
had 12,424 on the rolls, and 9709 in average attendance.
The territory now forming Dumfriesshire, together
with large part of Galloway, belonged to the Caledonian
Selgovae ; passed, after the Roman demission, to the
kingdom of Cumbria or Strathclj'de ; was much over-
run by the Dalriadans, both from the N of Ireland and
from Kintyre ; rose, for a time, into a condition of rude
independence ; was subjugated by the Scots or Scoto-
Dalriadans after the union of the Scoto-Dalriadan and
the Pictavian kingdoms ; and was constituted a county or
placed under a slieriff by "William the Lyon. But,
during a considerable period, its sheriffs had direct
authority only within Nithsdale, and no more than
nominal authority in the other districts. Both Annan-
dale and Eskdale, from the time of David I. till that of
Robert Bruce, were under separate or independent
baronial jurisdiction ; held, in the former, by Robert
Bruce's ancestors, in the latter, b}'' various great laud-
owners. The coimty then consisted of the sheriffship of
Nithsdale, the stewartry of Annandale, and the regality
of Eskdale ; and was cut into three jurisdictions nearly
corresponding in their limits to the basins of the three
principal rivers. ^Bruce, after his accession to the
throne, framed measures which issued in a comprehen-
sive hereditary sheriffship ; and an Act, passed in the
time of George II. , adjusted the jurisdiction of the county
to the condition in which it now exists.
Great barons, about the time of David I., were pro-
prietors of most of the lands in the county. Donegal,
the ancestor of the Edgars, owned great part of Niths-
dale, and was called Dunegal of Stranith. The Maccus-
wells, ancestors of the Maxwells, held the lands of
Cacrlaverock ; the Comjms held the estates of Dal-
swinton and Duncow, and lands extending thence south-
ward to Castled3'kcs in the southern vicinity of Dum-
fries ; the Bruces, ancestors of the royal Bruce, held
Annandale, and resided chiefly at Lochmaben ; the
Kirkpatricks, the Johnstons, the Carlyles, and the
Carnocs hekl portions of Annandale as retainers of tho
Bruces ; and the Souliscs, the Avenels, the Rossedals,
and others held Eskdale. The Baliols also, though
not properl}"^ barons of the county itself, but only im-
pinging on it through succession to the lords of Gal-
loway, yet powerfully afi'ected its fortunes. Dumfries-
shire, during the wars between the Bruces and the
Baliols, was placed betwixt two fires ; or, to use a
different figure, it nursed at its breasts both of the
competitors for the crown ; and, from the nature of its
])Osition bearing aloft tlie Bruce in its right arm, and
both the Balioi and the Comyn in its left, it was pecu-
liarly exposed to suffering. The successful Bruce, after
his victory of Bannockburn, gave the Comyns' manor
DUMGLOW
of Dalswinton to "Walter Stewart, and their manor of
Duncow to Robert Boyd ; bestowed his own lordship of
Annandale, with the castle of Lochmaben, on Sir
Thomas Randolph, and created him Earl of Moray ; and
conferred on Sir James Douglas, in addition to the pift
of Douglasdale in Lanarkshire, the greater part of Esk-
dale, and other extensive possessions in Dumfriesshire.
The county suffered again, and was once more the chief
seat of strife during the conflicts between the Bruces
and the Baliols in the time of David II. Nor did it
sufter less in degree, while it suffered longer in dura-
tion, under the subsequent proceedings of the rebel-
lious Douglases. These haughty barons, 'whose coronet
so often counterpoised the crown,' grew so rapidly in at
once descent, acquisition, power, and ambition, as prac-
tically to become lords-paramount of both Dumfriesshire
and Kirkcudbrightshii-e. Their possessions, at their
attainder in 1455, reverted to the Crown, and were in
part bestowed on the Earl of March ; yet still, through
oM influence and through action of old retainers and
their descendants, continued to give the Douglases a
strong hold upon the county, such as enabled them to
embroil it in further troubles. The county was invaded,
in 1484, by the exiled Earl of Douglas and the Duke of
Albany ; and thence, during a century and a half, it
appears never to have enjoyed a few years of continuous
repose. Even so late as 1607, the martial followers of
Lord ilaxwell and the Earl of Morton were led out to
battle on its soil, in a way to threaten it with desola-
tion ; and all onward till the union of the Scottish and
the English crowns, marauding forces and invading
armies, at only brief intervals of time, overran it from
the southern border, and subjected it to pillage, iire,
and bloodshed. The county sat down in quietude under
James VI., and begun then to wear a dress of social
comeliness ; but again, during the reign of the Charleses,
it was agitated with broils and insurrections ; and, in
the rebellions of 1715 and 1745, especially in the latter,
it was the scene of numerous disasters. The Jacobites
were strong in it, and worked so vigorously in the cause
of the Chevalier and the Pretender as to draw destruc-
tion on their own families. The ilaxwells, in particular,
were utterly overthrown by the attainder of the Earl of
Nithsdale in 1715 ; and several other great families lost
all their possessions and their influence either then or in
1746. The Dukes of Buccleuch, partly through exten-
sion of their own proper territories, partly through
inheritance of those of the Dukes of Queensberry, are
now by far the largest and most influential lando\vners
of the county ; and the Marquis of Queensberry and
Hope-Johnstone of Annandale hold a high rank.
Caledonian cairns, camps, and hill-forts are numerous
in many of the upland districts, particularly on the
south-eastern hills ; remains of Caledonian stone circles
are in the parishes of Gretna, Eskdalemuir, Wamphray,
Moffat, and Holywood ; Roman stations, Roman camps,
or remains of them are at Brunswark, Castle O'er,
Raeburnfoot, Torwoodmoor, Trohoughton, Gallaberry,
Wardlaw Hill, and Caerlaverock ; Roman roads con-
nected the Roman stations with one another, and went
up Annandale, and westward thence to Nithsdale. A
remarkable antiquity, supposed by some writers to be
Anglo-Saxon, by others to be Danish, is in Ruthwell
churchj'ard ; old towers are at Amisfield, Lag, Achin-
cass, Robgill, and Lochwood ; and ancient castles, some
in high preservation, others utterly dilapidated, are at
Caerlaverock, Comlongan, Torthorwald, Closeburn, Mor-
ton, Sanquhar, Hoddam, Wauchope, and Langliolm.
Ancient monasteries were at Dumfries, Ca'Aonbie, Holy-
wood, and other places ; and a fine monastic ruin is
still at Lincluden. Vast quantities of ancient coins,
medals, weapons, and pieces of defensive armour have
been found. Numerous places figure prominently in Sir
Walter Scott's Guy Manneriiuj, llcdgauntlct, and Abbot.
See, besides works cited under Annandale, Caer-
laverock, Drumlanrig, Dumfries, Lochmaben, and
Moffat, two articles on Dumfriesshire in Trans. Highl.
and Ag. S'oc, 1869.
Dumglow. See Drumglow.
26
DUNAGOIL
Dumgree, an ancient parish in the upper part of
Annandale, Dumfriesshire, now divided between Kirk-
patrick-Juxta and Johnstone. The larger section of it
is within Kirkpatrick-Juxta^ and retains there, near the
right bank of Kinnel Water, some traces of the ancient
cliureh.
Dumphail. See Duniphail.
Dun, a parish of NE Forfarshire, containing, towards
its south-western corner. Bridge of Dun Junction on
the main line of the Caledonian, 4 miles E bySof Brechin,
15i ENE of Forfar, and 5f (3i by road) W by N of .Mon-
trose, under whicli it has a post and railway telegraph
office. Bounded N by Logiepert, NE by Montrose, SE
by Montrose Basin, S by the river South Esk, dividing
it from Iklaryton, SW by Brechin, and NW by Straca-
thro, the parish has an utmost length from E to W of
3^ miles, an utmost width from N to S of 2| miles,
and an area of 6030 acres, of which 1586§ are fore-
shore and 1374 vvater. Montrose Basin, over all its
connection with the parish, is alternately an ornament
and an eyesore — at high-tide a beautiful lagoon, but at
ebb a dismal expanse of black and slimy silt. The
South Esk, along all the southern border, is a fine
stream, abounding with salmon and sea-trout, and it is
crossed at Bridge of Dun by a handsome three-arched
bridge, built in 1787. A loch called Dun's Dish (4^ x
IJ furl.) lies at an altitude of 242 feet in the north-
western corner, and sends off a burn to the South Esk.
The land along the river and the basin is low, flat, and
protected by embankments, thence rises gently to the
centre of the parish, and thence to the western and
north-western borders is somewhat tabular, attaining
230 feet above sea-level near Balnillo, 202 near Dun
House, 207 near Glenskinno, 279 in Dun Wood, and
290 near Damside. The soil, on the low flat gi-ound,
is a fertile clayey loam ; on the ascent thence to the
centre is partly light and sandy, partly rich blackish
mould ; and be3'ond is first of good quality, next wet
and miry. About three-fourths of the entire area are in
tillage, and nearly one-sixth is under wood. In Dun,
in 1839, was born Alexander Hay Jaap (' H. A. Page'),
sub-editor of 6-'oot^ TFordsshice 1865 ; and John Erskine,
the Laird of Dun (1508-91), was born at the family seat
of Dun. He was a leader of the Reformation party, and
at his house in 1555 John Knox preached almost daily,
making many converts. David Erskine, Lord Dun
(1670-1755), an eminent, lawyer, and a stanch upholder
of the Episcopalian non-jurors, was also born at Dun
House, which, standing 7 furlongs NNE of Bridge of
Dun, is now the seat of Augustus Jn. Wm. Hy.
Kennedy-Erskine, Esq. (b. 1866 ; sue. 1870), owner of
1727 acres in the shire, valued at £3571 per annum.
The other chief mansion is Langley Park ; and the
property is mostly divided among four. Dun is in the
presbytery of Brechin and sjTiod of Angus and Mearns ;
the living is worth £245. The parish church, 9^ fur-
longs N by W of Bridge of Dim, was built about 1833,
and contains 300 sittings ; a public school, with accom-
modation for 140 children, had (ISSO) an ^average
attendance of 84, and a grant of £77, 2s. Valuation
(1882) £7846, 3s. 6d., phis £2024 for railway. Pop.
(1801) 680, (1831) 514, (1861) 552, (1871) 565, (1881)
5n.—0rd. Sur., sh. 57, 1868.
Dunach, an estate, with a mansion, in Kilmore parish,
Argyllshire, on the N shore and near the head of salt-
water Loch Feochan, 3i miles S of Oban. It was pur-
chased in 1871 for £16,500 by Neil Macleod Macdonald,
Esq. (b. 1836), who holds 463 acres in the shire, valued
at £409 per annum.
Dunachton, a barony in Alvie parish, Inverness-shire,
1;| mile SW of Kincraig station. It passed by marriage,
about 1500, from the M'Nivens to the Mackintoshes;
and had a castle, burned in 1689, and never rebuilt.
Dunagoil, a headland on the SW coast of the Isle of
Bute, li mile NW of Garroch Head. Rising to a lieight
of 119 feet, and offering to the sea a steep and rugged ac-
clivity, that terminates in a lofty, cavernous clitl, it pre-
sents also to the land side a precipitous ascent, difficult
of access, and scaleable chiefly by a narrow rugged ledge
401
DUNAIDH
at the southern extremity. Its flattish summit, retain-
ing vestiges of an ancient vitrified fort, supposed to be
Scandinavian, commands an extensive view along Kil-
brannan Sound and the Ficth of Clyde.
Dunaidh, a large, high, almost inaccessible rock in
Killarrow parish, Islay island, Argyllshire, near the
Mull of Islay. An old castle or fort on it, that seems to
have been a place of remarkable strength, is now an utter
ruin, witliout any characters of architectural interest. _
Dunain or Dunean, an estate, with a mansion, in
Inverness parish, Inverness-shire, 3 miles SW of Inver-
ness town. It anciently had a baronial fortalice ; and
to the N rises Dunain Hill (940 feet).
Dun Alastair or Mount Alexander, a fine modern
Scottisli P>aronial mansion in Fortingall parish, Perth-
shire, on the left bank of the Tummcl, 3 miles E of
Kinloch Rannoch, and 17 W of Pitlochry. Its prede-
cessor was the seat of the Struan Robertsons, and it owes
much of its ornamental planting to the Jacobite poet-
chieftain of Clan Donnachie, Alexander Robertson (1670-
1749), the prototype of Scott's ' Baron of Bradwardine.'
The present house was built by Gen. Sir John Mac-
donald, K.C.B. (1788-1866). There is a post and tele-
graph office of Dun Alastair. See Dalchosnie.
Dunamarle. See Duximarle.
Dunan, a bold promontory (100 feet) on the Atlantic
coast of Lochbroom parish, Ross-shire, on the northern
side of the entrance to Loch Broom, 10^ miles NW of
Ullapool.
Dunan- Aula, a tumulus in Craiguish parish, Argyll-
shire, in the valley of Barbreck. It is said to have
been formed over the grave of a Danish prince of the
name of Olaf or Olaus, who led an invading force into
sanguinary battle with the natives on gi'ound in its
vicinity ; and J mile distant are a nimiber of rude monu-
ments erected in memory of the warriors who fell in the
battle.
Dunans, an estate, with a mansion, in Kilmodan
parish, A rijyllshire, near the head of Glendaruel, 4 miles
NXE of Glendaruel House, and 23 NNW of Rothesay.
Dunaskin, a post office, with money order, savings'
bank, and telegraph departments, in Dalmellington
parish, AjTshire, near Waterside station.
Dunaverty, a quondam castle in Southend parish,
Argvllsliire, on a small bay of its own name, 5 miles E
by N of the Mull of KintjTC, and lOJ SSW of Campbel-
town. Crowning a steep pyramidal peninsula (95 feet),
with clifi' descending sheer to the sea, and defended on
the land side by a double or triple rampart and a fosse,
it appears, both from its site and from its structure, to
have been a place of uncommon strength, and com-
manded the approach to Scotland at the narrowest part
of sea between Scotland and Ireland. An early strong-
hold of the Lords of the Isles, said to have given shelter
to Robert Bruce at the ebb of his fortunes, it was cap-
tured and garrisoned by James IV. in 1493, and in the
following year recaptured by Sir John of Isla, who hanged
the governor from the wall, in the sight of the King
and the fleet. In 1647 it capitulated to General David
Leslie, who put every mother's son of its garrison to the
sword, instigated thereto by Mr John Nave, his excel-
lent chaplain, who ' never ceased to tempt him to that
bloodshed, yea, and threatened him with the curses
befell Saul for sparing the Amalekites.' The castle has
been so completely demolished that scarcely a vestige of
it now exists.
Dunavourd. See Donavourd.
Dunbar (Gael, dun-hai-r, 'fort on the point'), a town
and a parish on the north-eastern coast of Haddington-
shire. A royal and parliamentary burgh, seaport, and
.seat of considerable traffic, the towTi by road is 11 miles
ENE of Haddington, and 11| ESE of North Berwick,
wliilst by the North British railway it is 29;^ E of Edin-
burgh, and 28J NW of Berwick-upon-Tweed. It
.stands, Carlyle says, 'high and windy, looking down over
its herring-boats, over its grim old Castle now much
honey-combed, — on one of those projecting rock-pro-
montories with which that shore is niched and vandyked,
as far as the eye can reach. A beautiful sea ; good land
402
DUNBAR
too, now that the plougher understands his trade ; a
grim niched barrier of whinstone sheltering it from the
chafings and tumblings of the big blue German Ocean.
Seaward St Abb's Head, of whinstone, bounds j'our
horizon to the E, not very far off; W, clo.se by, is the deep
bay and fishy little village of Belhaven ; the gloomy Bass
and other rock-islets, and farther the hills of Fife, and
foreshadows of the Highlands, are visible as you look
seaward. From the bottom of Belhaven Bay to that of
the next sea-bight St Abb's-ward, the town and its
environs form a peninsula. . . . Landward, as you
look from the town of Dunbar, there rises, some short
mile off, a dusky continent of barren heath hills, the
Lammermuir, where only mountain sheep can be at
home.' To which need only be added that the town
itself chiefly consists of a spacious High Street and two
smaller parallel streets.
At the foot or N end of the High Street stands Dunbar
House, within the old park of the castle, exhibiting to
the street a large couchant sY»hinx with extended wings,
and to the sea a handsome facade with central circular
portico. Built by the Messrs Fall, and thereafter a
mansion of the Earl of Lauderdale, it was purchased in
1859 by Government, and converted into a barrack.
The park around it, which serves as the parade-ground
of the Haddingtonshire militia, contained, till its
levelling in 1871-72, two large artificial mounds, sup-
posed to be of prehistoric origin. The castle, founded
at an early period of the Christian era, but many times
reconstructed in the course of wellnigh a thousand
years, bore for a long time prior to the invention of
gunpowder the reputation of impregnability, and was
one of the grandest fortresses of the Border counties,
exerting a powerful influence on the national history
down to its demolition in 1568. Its ruins, already
grievously dilapidated, were still further reduced by ex-
cavations for the Victoria Harbour ; but Grose has left
us two views, and Miller a full description, of them
in their more perfect condition. Of Miller's description
the follo-ning is a summary : — The castle is founded
on a reef of trap rocks, which project into the sea,
and, in many places, rise like bastions thrown up
by nature to guard these stern remains of feudal
grandeur against the force of the waves. The body
of the buildings measures 165 feet from E to W,
and in places 207 from N to S. The South Battery —
by Grose supposed to have been the citadel or keep, and
now converted into a fever hospital — is situated on a
detached rock, which, 72 feet high, and accessible only
on one side, is connected with the main part of the castle
by a passage of masonry 69 feet long. Tlie citadel mea-
sures 54 feet by 60 within the walls, and in shape is
octagonal. Five of the gun-ports, or so-called 'aiTow-
holes,' remain, and measure 4 feet at the mouth, but
only 16 inches at the inner extremity. The buildings are
arched, and extend 8 feet from the outer walls, and look
into an open quadrangle, whence they derive their light.
About the middle of the fortress, part of a wall remains,
through which there is a doorway, surmounted with
armorial bearings, and leading seemingly to the prin-
cipal apartments. In the centre are tlie arms of George,
eleventh Earl of Dunbar, who succeeded his father in
1369 ; and who, besides the earldom of Dunbar and
March, inherited from his heroic mother the lordship of
Annandale and the Isle of Man. The towers had com-
munication with the sea, and dip low in many places.
NE from the front of the castle is a large natural cavern
of black stone, supposed to have formed part of the
dimgeon, which, Pennant observes, ' the assistance of a
little art had rendered a secure but infernal prison.'
But as it has a comnumication with a rockj' inlet from
the sea on the W, it is more likely that it is the dark
postern through which Sir Alexander Ramsay and his
brave followers entered with a supply of j.iovisions to
the besieged in 1339. It was a i^lace also well suited for
securing the boats belonging to the garrison. The castle
is built of a red stone like that of the neighbouring
quarries. Part of the foundation of a fort, which was
begun in 1559 for the purpose of accommodating a
DUNBAR
French garrison, may be traced, extending 136 feet in
front of the castle. This buikling was, however, inter-
rupted in its progress, antl demolished. In the NW
part of the ruins is an apartment about 12 feet square,
and nearly inaccessible, which tradition designates Queen
Mary's Eoom.
The public buildings include the town-hall, an old
edifice ; the assembly-rooms (1822), substantial and com-
modious,but badly situated ; the prison, legalised in 1864
for prisoners whose term does not exceed 10 days ; the corn
exchange (1855); St Catherine's Hall (1872), with ball
or concert room, and Masonic, Free Gardeners', and Good
Templars' lodges ; the custom-house ; and the railway
station, which, standing on the south-eastern outskirts
of the town, occupies part of the site of Oliver Crom-
Avell's camp, and is a large Tudor structure, with accom-
modations suitable to its position nearly midway between
Berwick and Edinburgh. Not far from the station, at
the S end of the High Street, stands the parish church,
on a spot 65 feet above sea-level — the site of a cruci-
form collegiate church, which, founded in 1342 and
1392 by Earls Patrick and George for a dean, a vice-
dean, and 8 prebendaries, measured 123 feet from E to
AV, and 83 feet across the transept. Built in 1819-21,
from designs by Gillespie Graham, at a cost of £8000,
the present church is an elegant structure in the
Gothic style, with a pinnacled square tower 108 feet
high, that commands an extensive view, and serves as a
landmark to mariners. The interior, seated for 1800
worshippers, is adorned ^^■ith two stained-glass windows,
erected in 1865 and 1871 ; whilst immediately behind
the pulpit is a superb monument, erected to the memory
of George Home, Earl of Dunbar, third son of Alexander
Home of Mandei'ston. This nobleman was in great
favour with James VI., and, holding successively the
offices of high-treasurer of Scotland and chancellor of
the exchequer in England, was raised to the peerage in
1605. It was on him that the 'British Solomon'
chiefly depended for the restoration of prelacy in Scot-
land ; and, at the parliament held at Perth in 1606, he
had the skill to carr}' through the act for the restoration
of the estate of bishops. He died at "Whitehall, 29
Jan. 1611, 'not,' says Calderwood, 'without suspicions
of poison.' ' His body being embalmed, and put into a
coflin of lead, was sent down to Scotland, and with great
solemnity interred in the collegiate church of Dunbar,
where his executors erected a very noble and magnifi-
cent monument of various coloured marble, with a statue
as large as life.' The monument is 12 feet broad at the
base, and 26 feet high. The Earl is represented, kneel-
ing on a cushion, in the attitude of prayer, ^\ith a Bible
open before him. He is clad in armour, which is seen
under his knight's robes, and on his left arm is the
badge of the Order of the Garter. Two knights in armour
stand on each side as supporters. Above them are two
female figures, Justice and Wisdom, betwixt whom, and
immediately above the cupola. Fame sounds her trum-
pet ; while, on the opposite side. Peace, with her olive
branch, sheds a laurel wreath on his lordship. Imme-
diately beneath the monument is the vault, wherein the
body is deposited in a leaden coffin. Other places of
worship are a Free church (1844), 2 U.P. churches, with
respectively 700 and 500 sittings, a Wesleyan Methodist
chapel, St Anne's Episcopal church, of iron (1876 ; 170
sittings), and the Roman^Catholic church of Our Lady of
the Waves (1877 ; made a separate mission in 1881).
The Burgh public school, the Lamer public school, and
a Roman Catholic school, with respective accommodation
for 289, 325, and 125 children, had (1880) an average
attendance of 159, 185, and 32, and grants of £134, 10s.,
£140, 15s., and £27, 12s.
The town has a head post office, with money order,
savings' bank, insurance, and telegraph departments,
branches of the Bank of Scotland, the British Linen Co. ,
and t)ie Commercial Bank, 20 insurance agencies, 9 hotels
and inns, a British workman public-house, a gas com-
pany, a cemetery compan}', a lifeboat, bowling and golf
clubs, masonic, foresters', and Good Templars' lodges,
a clothing society, a total abstinence society, etc. A
DUNBAR
weekly corn market is held on Tuesday, and fairs are
held on the first Tuesday of February (hiring) and on
26 May and 22 Nov. if a Tuesday, otherwise on the
Tuesday after. Malting, brewing, fish-curing, boat-
building, brickmaking, rope-spinning, iron-founding, and
the manufacture of agricultural implements, sailcloth,
and artificial manure are carried on. A printing-press
was erected in 1795, the earliest in the county ; and from
it was issued the first Scotch cheap periodical miscellany.
Trade has greatly fluctuated, both in quantity and in
kind. The port had long a custom-house of its own,
with jurisdiction from Gullane Point to the bounds of
Berwick, but is now a sub-port of Leith. A whale
fishery company was established in 1752, but, having
little or no success, was dissolved in 1804. In 1830 six
vessels were engaged in timber and grain trade with the
Baltic, and 39 in various coasting trade ; and in 1839
the vessels belonging to the port were 30 of 1495 tons,
in 1851 only 11 of 658 tons, this falling-ofi'of the shipping
trade being mainly ascribed to the opening of the North
British railAvay. The small Old Harbour, commenced
with a grant of £300 from Cromwell, in 1820 received
the addition of a graving-dock, which, proving, how-
ever, useless, was long ago filled up. The New or Vic-
toria Harbour, formed in 1844 at a cost of £15,762 by
the burgh and the Fishery Board, and repaired in 1880
at a further cost of £2181, covers 5 acres, and is an im-
portant haven of refuge for vessels between Leith Roads
and the English Tyne. It has a light, visible for 16 miles.
Created a royal burgh by David II. (1329-71), Dunbar
is now governed by a provost, 3 bailies, a treasurer, and
7 councillors. It partly
adopted the General Police
and Improvement Act of
Scotland prior to 1871 ;
and, with Haddington,
North Berwick, Lauder,
and Jedburgh, it returns
a member to parliament,
the parliamentary consti-
tuency numbering 464 in
1882, when the annual
value of real property
within the burgh amounted
to £13,887, Is., whilst the
corporation revenue for
1881 was £884. Pop. (1841) 3013, (1851) 3038, (1861)
3517, (1871) 3422, (1881) 3651. Houses (1881) 943 in-
habited, 104 vacant, 3 building.
Dunbar is a place of hoar antiquity. At it in 678 —
the year of his expulsion from his see — the gi'cat St
AVilfrid, Bishop of York, was imprisoned by Ecgfrid ;
and in 849 it is said to have been burned by Kenneth
mac Alpin. In 1072 Gospatric, ex-earl of the Northum-
brians, and kinsman to JMalcolm Ceannmor, obtained
from that king Dunbar with the adjacent territory ; and
the town's history for 360 years centres mainly around
the sea-built castle of his descendants, the Earls of
Dunbar and March. Patrick, filth Earl of Dunbar, who
in 1184 wedded a natural daughter of William the Lyon,
was justiciary of Lothian and keeper of Berwick ; and
during his tenure of these ofliccs, in 1214, Henry III.
invaded Scotland with a powerful army, and, having
taken the towm and castle of Berwick, next laid siege to
the fortress of Dunbar, but finding it impregnable, de-
vastated the country up to the walls of Haddington. A
marvellous story is told of Patrick, seventh Earl, who,
during the troublous minority of Alexander III., was
one of the chiefs of the English faction. Bower, who
was born at Haddington 100 years after, relates that, on 11
March 1286, the niglit preceding King Alexander's death,
True Thomas of Ercildoun or Eaklstox, arriving at
the castle of Dunbar, was jestingly asked by the Earl if
the morrow would bring any noteworthy event. Where-
to the Rhymour made answer mystically : ' Alas for to-
morrow, a daj' of calamity and misery ! Before the
twelfth hour shall be heard a blast so vehement as
shall exceed those of every former period, — a blast that
shall strike the nations with amazement, — shall humble
doa
Seal of Dunbar.
DUNBAR
wliat is proiul, and wliat is fierce shall level with the
grouiul ! The sorest wind and tempest that ever was
heard of in Scotland ! ' Next day, the Earl and his
companions having watched till the ninth honr without
observing any unusual appearance in the elements, began
to doubt the powers of the seer, and, ordering him into
their presence, upbraided him as an impostor, whereto
he replied that noon was not yet past. And scarce
had the Earl sat down to the board, scarce had the shadow
of the dial lallen upon the hour of noon, when a mes-
senger rode furiously up, who, being questioned, cried :
' Tidings I bring, but of a lamentable kind, to be
deplorexl by the whole realm of Scotland ! Alas, our
renowned King has ended his fair life at Kinghorn !'
'This,' said True Thomas, 'this is the scatheful wind
and dreadful tempest which shall blow such calamity
and trouble to the whole state of the whole realm of
Scotland!'
Patrick, eighth Earl of Dunbar — surnftmed Black
Beard — succeeded in 1289, and in the same year appeared
at the parliament of Brigham as Comes de Marehia (Earl
of March or the JNIerse), being tlie first of his line so de-
signated. He was one of the ten competitors for the
crown of Scotland (1291) ; and when, in 1296, Edward
I. with a powerful army entered Scotland, the Earl of
Dunbar took part against his country. His Countess,
however, more patriotic than he, delivered the castle
over to the leaders of the Scottish army. Edward de-
spatched the Earl of Warrenne with 12,000 men to the
siege ; whilst the Scots, sensible of the importance of
this fortress, whose capture would lay their country
open to the enemy, hastened with their main army of
40,000 men, under the Earls of Buchan, Lennox, and
Mar, to its relief. Warrenne, undaunted by the superior
numbers of the Scots, left part of his army to blockade
the castle, and with the rest advanced to meet the
foe. The English had to descend into a valley before
they could reach the Scots ; and as they descended, the
Scots, observing some confusion in their ranks, set up a
shout of exultation, and, causing their horns to be
sounded, rushed down from their position of advantage.
But when Warrenne emerged from the glen, and ad-
vanced undismayed against their formidable front, the
undisciplined troops, after a brief resistance, fled, and
were chased with great slaughter as far as Selkirk Forest.
Edward, next day, with the main body of the English
army, came up to Dunbar, and compelled the garrison to
capitulate. So, at least, runs the story, but Dr Hill
Burton observes, that ' evidently there was not a great
battle, \vith organised troops and known commanders
pitted against each other' {Hist. Scot., ii. 170, ed. 1876).
According to Blind Harry, when Wallace first undertook
to deliver his country, the Earl of Dunbar refused to
attend a meeting of the Estates at Perth. Thereupon
Wallace encountered Patrick in a field near Innerwick,
where the Earl had assembled 900 of his vassals, and
with half that number compelled the traitor, after a
terrible conflict, to retreat to Cockburnspath, himself
falling back on Dunbar. Patrick now went to Nor-
thumberland to crave the aid of the Bishop of Durham; but
his ostensible reason, the Minstrel tells us, was 'to bring
the Bruce free till his land.' Vessels were immediately
sent from the Northumbrian Tyne to blockade Dunbar,
and cut off supplies, while the Earl, with 20,000 men,
hastened to retake his fortress. In the interim Wallace
had repaired to the W in quest of succour, and, return-
ing by Yester, was joined by Hay and a chosen body of
cavalry. With 5000 men he marched to the support of
Seton, while the Bishop of Durham, who had remained
at Norham with Bmce, came to the assistance of Dun-
bar, and threw himself into an ambuscade near Spott-
moor. By this unexpected movement Wallace was
completely hemmed in, when Seton fortunately came to
his relief. The two armies closed in mortal strife. The
Scots puslied on so furiously against the Southrons, that
they were just about to fly, but Patrick was
' Sa cruel of intent,
Tl)at all his host tuk of him hardiment;
Throuch his awue hand he put mony to paio.'
404
DUNBAR
The desperate valour of the Wallaces, the Ramsaj's, and
the Grahams was of little avail against the superior
force of the English ; so that when the ambuscade of
Bishop Beck appeared, they were on the point of retir-
ing. Dunbar singled out Wallace amidst the throng,
and wounded him ; but the hero, returning the blow
with sevenfold vengeance, clove down Maitland, who
had thrown himself between. AVallace's horse was killed
beneath him, and he was now on foot dealing destruction
to his enemies, when
' Erie Patrick than, that had gret craft in war,
With spears ordand guid Wallace doun to bear.'
But 500 resolute warriors rescued their champion, and
the war-worn armies were glad to retire. The same
night Wallace traversed Lammermuir in quest of the
retreating host, while Bishop Beck, Earl Patrick, and
Bruce fled to Norham. On his return, the champion,
still mindful of the odium attached to his name by the
Earl of Dunbar, —
' Passit, with monj' awfull men,
On Patrickis land, and waistit wonder fast,
Tnk out guids, and places doun thai cast ;
His steads, sevin, that Mete Hamys was call'd,
Wallace gert break the burly biggings bauld,
Baith in the Merse, and als in Lothiane,
Except Dunbar, standaud he Icavit nane.'
In 1314 Edward II. of England, after seeing his army
annihilated at Bannockburu, fled with a body of horse
towards Berwick ; but Sir James Douglas, with 80
chosen horsemen, so pressed on the royal fugitive, that
he was glad to shelter himself in the castle of Dunbar.
Here he was received by Patrick, ninth Earl, 'full
gently ; ' and hence, in a fishing-boat, he coasted
along the shore till he reached the towers of Bam-
brough. After this, the Earl of Dunbar made peace
with his cousin. King Robert, and was present at
Ayr in May 1315, when the succession to the Crown of
Scotland was settled on Bruce's brother. But after
the defeat at Halidon Hill (1333), Edward at Berwick
once more received the fealty of the Earl of Dunbar with
several others of the nobility ; and the castle of Dunbar,
which had been dismantled and razed to the gi'ound on
tlie approach of the English, was now rebuilt at the
Earl's expense, for the purpose of maintaining an
English garrison.
In 1339 the castle was again in the sole possession of
its lord, and at the service of the Crown of Scotland ;
and then the Earls of Salisbury and Arundel advanced
at the head of a large English host to take it. The
Earl of Dunbar was absent in the North ; so that the
defence of his stronghold devolved upon his Countess, a
lady who, from her swarthy complexion, was called
Black Agnes, and who was daughter to the great Thomas
Randolph, Earl of Moray. During the siege, Agnes
performed all the duties of a bold and vigilant com-
mander. Wlien the battering engines of the English
hurled stones or leaden balls against the battlements, in
scorn she would bid a maid wipe off with a clean white
handkerchief the marks of the stroke ; and when the
Earl of Salisbury, with vast labour, brought his sow
close to the walls, the Countess cried : —
• Beware, llontagow.
For farrow shall thy sow ! '
Whereupon a large fragment of rock was hurled from
the battlements, and crushed the sow to pieces, with all
the poor little pigs — as Major calls them — who were
lurking beneath it. The following is Wyntoun's rhym-
ing narrative of this most memorable siege : —
' Schyre William Montague, that sua
Haii tane the siege, iiriiy gret nia
A mekil and richt stalwart engine,
And up smertly gcrt dress it ; syne
They warpit at the wall great staiics
Baith hard and heavy for the nanys.
But that nane nicrrying to them made.
And alsua wlien tliey castyne had,
With a towel, a damiscUe
Arrayed joUily and well,
Wippit the wall, that they micht see
To gere them mair annoyed be ;
DUNBAR
DUNBAR
There at the sieg-e well lanj they lay,
But there little vantage got they ;
For when they bykkyne walj, or assail,
Thej- tint the maist of their travaile.
And as they bykeryd there a' day,
Of a great shot I shall you say.
For that they had of it ferly,
It here to you rehearse will I.
William of Spens percit a Blasowne,
And thro' three faulds of Awbyrchowne,
And the Actowne through the third ply
And the arrow in the bodie,
While of that d\-nt there dead he lay ;
And then the Montagu gan say ;
" This is ane of my Lady's pinnis,
Her amouris thus, till my heart rinnis."
While that the siege was there on this wise
Men sayis their fell sair juperdyis.
For Lawence of Prestoun, that then
Haldin ane of the wichtest men,
That was in all Scotland that tide,
A rout of Inglismen saw ride.
That seemed gude men and worthy,
And were arrayed right richly ;
He, with als few folk, as they were.
On them assembled he there ;
But at the assembling, he was there
Xnta the mouth stricken with a spear,
liVTiile it up in the harnys ran ;
rill a dike he withdrew him than.
And died ; for nae mair live he might.
His men his death perceived noucht ;
And with their faes faucht stoutly,
While they them vanquish'd utterlj-.
Thus was this guid man brought tiU end.
That was richt greatly to commend.
Of ^et wirschipe and gret bownte
His saul be aye in saftie.
Sir WiUiam als of Galstown
Of Keith, that was of gude renown.
Met Richard Talbot by the way
And set him to sa hard assay,
That to a kirk he gert him gae,
And close there defence to ma ;
But he assailed there sae fast.
That him behov'd treat at the last.
And twa thousand pound to paj'.
And left hostage and went his way.
The Montagu was yet lyand.
Sieging Dvmbare with stalwart hand
And twa gallies of Genoa had he,
For till assiege it by the sea.
And as he thus assiegend lay.
He was set intil hard assay ;
For he had purchased him covyn
Of ane of them, that were therein,
That he should leave open the yete.
And certain term till ham then set
To come ; but they therein halily
Were wamit of it pririly.
He came, and the yete open fand.
And wald have gane in foot steppand.
But John of Cowpland, that was then
But a right poor simple man.
Shut him off back, and in is gane.
The portcullis came down on ane;
And spared Montagu, thereout
They cryed with a sturdy shout
"A Montagu for ever mair !"
Then with the folk that he had there
He turned to his Herberj*.
And let him japji; fullyly.
SjTie Alexander, the Ramsay,
That trowed and thought, that they
That were assieged in Dunbar,
At great distress or mischief were ;
That in an evening frae the Bass,
AVith a few folk, that with him was,
Toward Dunbar, intil a boat.
He held all pri%il}' his gate ;
And by the gallies all slyly
He gat with his company ;
The lady and all that were there
Of his coming well comfort were,
He issued in the morning in hy,
And with the wachis sturdily.
Made ane apart and stout melle.
And but tynscl entered he.
While jiontagu was there lyand.
The King Edward of England
Purchased him help and alya\vn3.
For he wald amowe were in France;
And for the Montagu he sends ;
For he cowth nae thing till end
Forowtyn him, for that time he
Was maist of his counsel privie
When he had heard the king's biddings
He removed, but mair dwelling.
When he, I trow, had Ij'ing there
A quarter of a year and mair.
Of this assiege in their hethj-ng
The English oysid to make karping
" I vow to God, she makes gret stere
The Scottish wenche ploddere.
Come I aire, come I late,
I fand Annot at the yate." '
Amongst the nobles who fell in the field of Durham,
in 1346, was Thomas, Earl of Moray, brother to the
heroic Countess of Dunbar. As he had no male issue,
Agnes inherited his vast estates ; and her husband
assumed the additional title of Earl of Moray. Besides
the earldom of Moray, the Earl of Dunbar and his
Countess obtained the Isle of JIan, the lordship of
Annandale, the baronies of ilorton and Tibbers in
Nithsdale, of Morthingtoun and Longformacus, and the
manor of Dunse in Berwickshire, with Mochrum in
Galloway, Cumnock in Ayrshire, and Blantyre in Clydes-
dale.
George, the tenth Earl of Dunbar and March, suc-
ceeded his father in 1369. From his vast possessions
he became one of the most powerful nobles of southern
Scotland and the great rival of the Douglases. His
daughter Elizabeth was betrothed, in 1399, to David,
Duke of Rothesay, son and heir to Robert III. ; and on
the faith of the Prince, who had given a bond to perform
the espousals, the Earl had advanced a considerable por-
tion of her dowry. But Archibald, Earl of Douglas —
surnamed the Grim — jealous of the advantage which this
marriage promised to a family whose j»re-eminence in
the state already rivalled his ovm, protested against the
alliance, and, by his intrigues at court, through the
Duke of Albany, had the contract between Rothesay
and Lady Elizabeth cancelled, and his own daughter
substituted in her place. Stimg by the insult, Earl
George •withdrew to England, where Henry IV. gi-anted
him a pension of £400 during the continuance of war
with Scotland, on condition that he provided 12 men-
at-arms and 20 archers with horses, to serve against
Robert. With a Douglas at Otterbum (1388), he had
defeated Hotspur ; now, with Hotspur, at Homildon
(1402), he defeated a Douglas. At last, through the
mediation of "Walter Halyburton of Dirleton, a recon-
ciliation was effected in 1408, Douglas consenting to
Dunbar's restoration, on condition that he himself should
get the castle of Lochmaben and the lordship of Annan-
dale, in lieu of the castle of Dimbar and earldom of
March, which he then possessed.
George, eleventh Earl of Dunbar and March, suc-
ceeded his father in 1420, being then nearly 50 years
old. In 1434, he and his son Patrick visited England,
The motive of this visit to the English court is not
known; but the slumbering jealousies of James I. —
who had already struck a blow at the power of the
barons — were easilj' roused ; and he formed the bold
plan of seizing the estates and fortresses of a family
which for ages had been the wealthiest and most power-
ful on the Scottish border. The Earl of Dunbar was
arrested and imprisoned in the castle of Edinburgh,
while the Earl of Angus, Chancellor Crichton, and Adam
Hepburn of Hailes were despatched with letters to the
keeper of the castle of Dunbar, who immediately sur-
rendered it to the King's authority. In a parliament
assembled at Perth on 10 Jan. 1435, George was accused
of holding his earldom and estates after their forfeiture
by his father's treason. In vain did he plead that his
father had been pardoned and restored by Albany ; it
was answered, that a forfeiture incurred for treason could
not be pardoned by a regent ; and the parliament, in
compliance with this reasoning, adjudged, ' that, iu
consequence of the attainder of George de Dunbar, for-
merly Earl of March and Lord of Dunbar, every right
both of property and possession in all and each of those
estates in the earldom of March and lordship of Dunbar,
and all other lands which he held of our said lord the
King, with all and each of their appurtenances, did and
does exclusively belong and appertain to our lord the
King.' Thus earldom and estates were vested in the
Crown ; and by James II. the lordship of Dunbar was
bestowed on his second son, Alexander, third Duke of
Albany, then in his infancy.
In i483 Albany gave the castle of Dunbar into the
405
DUNBAR
hands of the English ; a condition of the truce with
Henry VII. was, that its recapture by the Scots should
not be deemed an act of war. On the marriage of Mar-
garet of England with the King of Scotland in 1502, the
earldom of Dunbar and lordship of Cockburnspath, with
their dependencies, were assigned as the jointure of the
young Queen ; but the castle of Dunbar is expressly
mentioned as being reserved by the King to himself.
In 1516 John, fourth Duke of Albany, placed a French
garrison here, under poor De la Bastie ; and by the
French it was held till James V. , during his marriage
sojourn in Paris (1537), expressly bargained for its
evacuation. Three years later an English spy wrote
word how James ' at least twice every week in proper
person, with a privy company of six persons and himself,
repairs secretly by night, at the hour of twelve of the
clock or after, to his said castle of Dunbar, and there so
continues sometimes by the space of one day, and some-
times of two days, and returns by night again, and
hath put all his ordnance there in such case that the
same are in full and perfect readiness to be removed and
set forward at his pleasure. '
The English, in the inroad under the Earl of Hertford,
in 1544, after their return from the siege of Lcith, and
after burning Haddington, encamped the second night
— 26 May — near Dunbar. ' The same day,' says Patten,
' we burnt a fine town of the Earl of Bothwell's, called
Haddington, with a great nunnery and a house of friars.
The next night after we encamped besides Dunbar, and
there the Scots gave a small alarm to our camp. But
our watches were in such readiness that the)' had no
vantage there, but were fain to recoil without doing of
any harm. That night they looked for us to have burnt
the to\vn of Dunbar, which we deferred till the morning
at the dislodging of our camp, which we executed b)-
500 of our hackbutters, being backed Avith 500 horse-
men. And by reason we took them in the morning,
who, having watched all night for our coming and per-
ceiving our army to dislodge and depart, thought them-
selves safe of us, were newly gone to their beds ; and in
their first sleeps closed in with fii'e, men, women, and
children, were suffocated and burnt. That morning
being very misty and foggy, we had perfect knowledge
by our espials that the Scots had assembled a great
power at a strait called the Pease.'
In 1547, Hertford, now Duke of Somerset, invaded
Scotland with an army of 15,000 men ; and having
crossed the pass of Pease, with ' pulTying and payne,' as
Patten says, demolished the castles of Dunglass, Inner-
wick, and Thornton. ' This done, about noon, we
marched on, passing soon after within the gunshot of
Dunbar, a town standing longwise upon the seaside,
whereat is a castle — whicli the Scots count very strong
— that sent us divers shots as we passed, but all in vain :
their horsemen showed themselves in their fields beside
us, towards whom Bartevil with his 800 men, all
hackbutters on horseback — whom he had right well ap-
pointed — and John de Rybaud, ^vith divers others, did
make ; but no hurt on either side, saving that a man of
Bartevil's slew one of them with his piece. The skirmish
was soon ended.' In 1548, Dunbar was burned by
German mercenaries under the Earl of Shrewsbury, on
his return to England from the attack on Haddington.
On Monday, 11 March 1566, just two days after
Rizzio's assassination, Mary at midnight slipped out
from Holyrood, and, with Damley and six or seven
followers, riding straight to Seton House, there got an
escort on to the strong fortress of Dunbar, whose
governor ' was amazed, early on Tuesday morning, by
the arrival of his king and queen hungry and clamorous
for fresli eggs to breakfast.' Having thus seduced
Darnley to abandon his party, the Queen's next step
was to avenge the murder of her favourite. A proclama-
tion was accordingly issued from Dunbar on 16 March,
calling on the inhabitants of Edinburgh, Haddington,
Linlithgow, Stirling, etc., to meet her at Haddington
on Sunday the 17tli ; but it was not till the 27th that
Bothwell, with 2000 horsemen, escorted the royal pair
back to Edinburgh. Melville, the interim secretary,
406
DUNBAR
tells how at Haddington during this homeward journey
Mary complained bitterly of Darnley's conduct in the
late assassination ; and on 19 April, in parliament,
she, ' taking regard and consideration of the great
and manifold good service done and performed, not only
to her Highness's honour, weill, and estimation, but
also to the commonweill of her realm and lieges thereof,
by James, Earl Bothwell, and that, through his great
service foresaid, he not only frequently put his person
in peril and danger of his life, but also super-expended
himself, alienated and mortgaged his livings, lands, and
heritage, in exorbitant suras, whereof he is not hastily
able to recover the same, and that he, his friends and
kinsmen, for the most part, dwell next adjacent to her
Highness's castle of Dunbar, and that he is most habile
to have the captaincy and keeping thereof, and that it
is necessarily required that the same should be well en-
tertained, maintained, and furnished, which cannot be
done without some yearly rent, and profit given to him
for that effect, and also for reward of his said service :
therefore, her Majesty infefted him and his heirs-male in
the office of the captaincy keeping of the castle of
Dunbar, and also in the c^o^\^l lands of Easter and
Wester Barns, the lands of Newtonleyes, Waldane, etc.
So it was to Dunbar Castle that Bothwell brought
Mary ' full gently,' when, with 800 spearmen, he met
her at Fountainbridge, on her return from Stirling, 24
April 1567, ten weeks after the Kirk-of-Field tragedy.
The Earl of Huntly, Secretary Maitland, and Sir James
Jlelville, were taken captives with the Queen, while the
rest of her servants were suffered to depart ; and Mel-
ville himself was released on the following day. Of Both-
well and Mary, Buchanan tells that, ' they had scarcely
remained ten days in the castle of Dunbar, with no
great distance between the Queen's chamber and Both-
well's, when they thought it expedient to return to the
castle of Edinburgh. '
The marriage at Edinburgh, the retreat to BoRTH-
wiCK, and the flight thence in page's disguise to Cake-
MTJIR — these three events bring Mary once more to
Dunbar, for the third and last time, on 13 June. With
Bothwell she left next day to levy forces, and the day
after that comes Cakeeuky Hill, whence Bothwell
returns alone, to fly on shipboard, which ends Dunbar's
great three-act tragedy.
On 21 Sept. 1567, four companies of soldiers were
sent to take Dunbar, which surrendered to the Regent
on 1 Oct., and in the following December the castle,
which had so often sheltered the unfortunate and the
guilty, was ordered by Parliament to be destroyed. In
1581, among several grants excepted b)' James VI. from
the general revocation of his deeds of gift made through
importunity, mention is made of the ' forthe of Dunbar
gi-anted to William Boncle, burgess of Dunbar.' This
probably referred to the site of the fortress, and per-
haps some ground adjacent.
On 22 July 1650, Cromwell, at the head of 16,000
men, entered Scotland ; on 3 Sept. he fought the
Battle of Dunbar. Of which great battle and the events
that led to it we have his o\vn account in a letter to
Lenthall, Speaker of the Parliament of England : —
' We having tried what we could to engage the enemy, 3
or 4 miles W of Edinburgh ; that proving ineffectual,
and our victual failing, we marched towards our ships
fur a recruit of our want. The enemy did not at all
trouble us in our rear, but marched the direct way to-
wards Edinburgh ; and partly in the night and morning
slips-through his whole army, and quarters himself in a
posture easy to interpose between us and our victual.
But the Lord made him to lose the opportunity. And
the morning proving exceeding wet and dark, we re-
covered, by that time it was light, a ground where they
could not hinder us from our victual ; which was an
high act of the Lord's Providence to us. We being
come into the said ground, the enemy marched into the
said ground we were last upon ; having no mind either
to strive or to interpose between us and our victuals, or
to fight ; being indeed upon this aim of reducing us to
a lock, hoping that the sickness of our army would
DUNBAR
render their work more easy by the gaining of time.
Whereupon we marched to Musselburgh to victual, and
to ship away our sick men ; where we sent aboard near
500 sick and wounded soldiers.
' And upon serious consideration, finding our weakness
so to increase, and the enemy lying upon his advantage,
at a general council it was thought fit to march to Dun-
bar, and there to fortify the town. "Which, we thought,
if any thing, would provoke them to engage. As also,
that the having a garrison there would furnish us with
accommodation for our sick men, and would be a good
magazine, which we exceedingly wanted, being put to
depend upon the uncertainty of weather for landing pro-
visions, which many times cannot be done, though the
being of the whole army lay upon it ; all the coasts
from Berwick to Leith not having one good harbour.
As also, to lie more conveniently to receive our recruits
of horse and foot from Berwick.
' Having these considerations, upon Saturday, the
30th of August, we marched from Musselburgh to Had-
dington. Where, by that time we had got the van-
brigade of our horse, and our foot and train, into their
quarters, the enemy had marched with that exceeding
expedition that they fell upon the rear-forlorn of our
horse, and put it in some disorder ; and indeed had like
to have engaged our rear-brigade of horse with their
whole army, had not the Lord, by His Providence, put
a cloud over the moon, thereby giving us opportunity to
draw ofl' those horse to the rest of the arm}\ Which
accordingly was done without any loss, save of three or
fom- of our afore-mentioned forlorn ; wherein the enemy
— as we believe — received more loss.
' The army being put into a reasonable secure posture,
towards midnight the enemy attempted our quarters, on
the W end of Haddington ; but through the goodness
of God we repulsed them. The next morning we drew
into an open field, on the S side of Haddington ; we not
judging it safe for us to draw to the enemy upon his
own ground, he being prej^ossessed thereof; but rather
drew back, to give him way to come to us, if he had so
thought fit. And having waited about the space of four
or five hours, to see if he would come to us, and not
finding any inclination in the enemy so to do, we
resolved to go, according to our first intendment, to
Dunbar.
' By that time we had marched three or four miles, we
saw some bodies of the enemy's horse draw out of their
quarters ; and by that time our carriages were gotten
near Dunbar, their whole army was upon their march
after us. And, indeed, our drawing back in this man-
ner with the addition of three new regiments added to
th'jm, did much heighten their confidence, if not pre-
sumption and arrogancy. The enemy that night, we
perceived, gatheretl towards the hills, labouring to
make a perfect interposition between us and Berwick.
And having in this posture a great advantage, through
his better knowledge of the country he effected it, by
sending a considerable party to the strait pass at Cop-
perspath [Cockburnspath], where ten men to hinder,
are better than forty to make their way. And truly
this was an exigent to us, wherewith the enemy re-
proached us ; as with that condition the Parliament's
army was in, when it made its hard conditions with the
King in Cornwall. By some reports that have come to
us, they had disposed of us, and of their business, in
sufficient revenge and wrath towards our persons, and
had swallowed up the poor interest of England, believing
that their army and their king would have marched to
London without any interruption ; it being told us, we
know not how truly, by a prisoner we took the night
before the fight, that tlieir king was very suddenly to
come amongst them, with those English they allowed
to be about him. But in what they were thus lifted up,
the Lord was above them.
' The enemy lying in the posture before mentioned,
having those advantages ; we lay very near him, being
sensible of our disadvantages ; having some weakness of
flesh, but yet consolation and sujjport from the Lord
Himself to our poor weak faith, wherein I believe not a
DUNBAR
few amongst us stand : That because of their numbers,
because of their advantages, because of their confidence,
because of our weakness, because of our strait, we were
in the Mount, and in the Mount the Lord would be
seen ; and that He would find out a M^ay of deliverance
and salvation for us ; and indeed we had our consola-
tions and our hopes.
* Upon Monday evening — the enemy's whole numbers
were very great, as we heard, about 6000 horse and
16,000 foot at least ; ours drawn down, as to sound men,
to about 7500 foot and 3500 horse, — upon Monday
evening, the enemy drew down to the right wing aliout
two-thirds of their left wing of horse. To the right
wing ; shogging also their foot and train much to the
right, causing their right wing of horse to edge down
towards the sea. We could not well imagine but that
the enemy intended to attempt upon us, or to place
themselves in a more exact position of interposition.
The Major-General and myself coming to the Earl
Roxburgh's house [Broxmouth], and observing this
posture, I told him I thought it did give us an oppor-
tunity and advantage to attempt upon the enemy. To
which he immediately replied, that he had thought to
have said the same thing to me. So that it pleased the
Lord to set this apprehension upon both of our hearts at
the same instant. We called for Colonel !Monk, and
showed him the thing ; and coming to our quarters at
night, and demonstrating our apprehensions to some of
the colonels, they also cheerfully concurred.
' We resolved, therefore, to put our business into this
posture : That six regiments of horse and three regiments
and a half of foot should march in the van ; and that the
Major-General, the Lieutenant-General of the horse, and
the Commissary-General, and Colonel Monk to com-
mand the brigade of foot, should lead on the business ;
and that Colonel Pride's brigade. Colonel Overton's
brigade, and the remaining two regiments of horse,
should bring up the cannon and rear. The time of
falling-on to be by break of day ; but, through some
delaj^s, it proved not to be so ; not till six o'clock in the
morning.
' The enemy's word was The Covenant, which it had
been for diver days. Ours, The Lord of Hosts. The
Major-General, Lieutenant-General Fleetwood, and Com-
missary-General W^halley, and Colonel Twisleton, gave
the onset ; the enemy being in a very good posture to
receive them, having the advantage of their cannon and
foot against our horse. Before our foot could come up,
the enemy made a gallant resistance, and there was a
very hot dispute at sword's point between our horse and
theirs. Our first foot, after they had discharged their
duty, being overpowered with the enemy, received some
repulse, which they soon recovered. For my own regi-
ment, under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel Golt'e,
and my Major, White, did come seasonably in ; and, at
the push of pike, did repel the stoutest regiment the
enemy had there, merely with the courage the Lord was
pleased to give. Which proved a great amazement to
the residue of their foot ; this being the first action be-
tween the foot. The horse in the meantime did, with a
great deal of courage and spirit, beat back all opposition,
charging through the bodies of the enemy's horse, and
of their foot ; who were, after the first repulse given,
made by the Lord of Hosts as stubble to their swords.
Indeed, I believe I may speak it without partiality,
both your chief commanders and others in their several
places, and soldiers also, were acted [actuated] with as
much courage as ever hath been seen in any action since
this war. I know they look to be named ; and there-
fore I forbear particulars.
' The best of the enemy's horse being broken through
and through in less than an hour's dispute, their whole
army being put into confusion, it became a total rout ;
our men liaving the chase and execution of them near
eight miles. We believe that upon the place and near
about it were about three thousand felain. Prisoners taken:
of their officers, you have this enclosed list ; of j)rivate
soldiers, near 10,000. The whole baggage and train taken;
wherein was good store of match, powder, and bullet;
407
DUNBAR
DUNBARNY
all their artillcrj', great and small — thirty gnns. "We
are confident they have left behind them not less than
fifteen thousand arms. I have already brought in to me
near two hundred colours, which I herewith send you.
AVhat officers of theirs of quality are killed, we yet can-
not learn ; but yet surely divers are ; and many men of
quality are mortally wounded, as Colonel Lumsden, the
Lord Libberton, and others. And, that which is no
small addition, I do not believe we have lost 20 men.
Not one commissioned officer slain as I hear of, save one
cornet, and Major Rooksby, since dead of his wounds ;
and not many mortally wounded. Colonel "Wlialley
only cut in the hand-wrist, and his horse (twice shot)
killed under him ; but he well recovered another horse,
and went on in the chase. Thus you have the prospect
of one of the most signal mercies God hath done for
England and His people, this war' (Carlyle's Cromwell*
part vi.).
The subsequent history of Dunbar presents nothing very
memorable. At it Cope landed his troops from Aberdeen,
16 to 18 Sept, 1745— the week of the battle of Preston-
pans In 1779, Paul Jones's sipiadron hovered a brief
space in front of the town, and, in 1781, Captain G. Fall,
another American privateer, threatened a descent, but
sheered off on perceiving preparations making for giving
him a warm reception. By a strange coincidence the
provost in the latter year was Robert Fall, member of a
t'amil)' that, from the middle of the 17th to the close of
the 18th century, figures largely in the annals of Dunbar
as one of the chief merchant houses in the kingdom.
The Falls of Dunbar married into the Scottish baronetcy,
and gave a Jacobite member to Parliament ; yet Mr
Simson adduces many reasons for believing that they
came of the selfsame stock as the Gipsy Faas of Kirk-
Yetholm — Faa being tlie form under which we first meet
with the name at Dunbar, in the Rev. J. Blackadder's
Memoir, under date 1669. When on 22 May 1787
Robert Burns arrived at ' this neat little town, riding
like the devil, and accompanied by Miss , mounted
on an old carthorse, huge and lean as a house, herself as
fine as hands could make her, in cream-coloured riding-
clothes, hat and feather, etc' — he ' dined with Provost
Fall, an eminent merchant (Mrs F. a genius in paint-
ing).' AVhich is about the last that we hear of the Falls
at Dunbar, where, in 1835, there was 'not even a stone
to tell where they lie.' At York there are Falls at the
present day, who likewise lay claim to Romani origin
(Simson' s History of the Gipsies, 2d ed., New York, 1878 ;
and Notes and Queries, 1881).
The parish, containing also the villages of Belhaven
and East and West Baiixs, is bounded N and NE by
the German Ocean, SE by Innerwick, S by Spott and
Stenton, W by Prestonkirk, and NW by Whitekirk-
Tynninghame. Its utmost lengtli, from W by N to E
by S, is 7^ miles ; its breadth, from N to S, varies be-
tween 24 furlongs and 3 miles ; and its area is 8803
acres, of which 1284J are foreshore and 214 water.
At the western boundary is the mouth of the river
Tyne ; Dry Burn winds i^ miles east-north-eastward to
the sea along all the Innerwick border ; and to the sea
through the interior flow Spott Burn and Beil Water.
The coast to the W, indented by Tyniiinghame and
Belhaven Bays, presents a fine sandy beach ; but east-
ward from the mouth of Beil Water is bold and rocky,
' niclied and vandyked ' with headlands of no great
height, j'et here and tlierc jagged and savage in their
way. The interior exliiliits a pleasant diversity of hill
and dale, rising gradually towards the Lammermuir
Hills, and commanding a prospect of seaboard and ocean
from St Abb's Head to the Hass and the hills of Fife.
The liighest points are Biiunt Hill (737 feet) and Doon
Hill (582), these rising 3 and ^ miles SSE of the town,
the latter on the boundary with Spott ; since Dunbar
* John Aubrey, in his Miscellanies (1(596), records a circura-
Btance unnoticed Ijy Carlyle. 'One tlint I l<new,' he says, ' that
was at the Battle of Dunliar, told me tliat Oliver was carried on
with a Divine Impulse ; he did lau^rh sn excessively as if he had
>)cen drunk ; his Eyes sparkled with S|>irits. He obtained a great
Victory ; but the Action was said to be
rrudence.'
408
contrary to Uumaii
Common, Q\ miles SSW of the town, though sometimes
regarded as part of the parish, is really divided among
Spott, Stenton, and Whittinghame. A part of the
Lammerrauirs, with drainage towards the Berwickshire
"\\niitadder, it attains at Clints Dod a height of 1307
feet. The rocks of the parish exhibit interesting
]diases both of eruptive and of secondary formations.
Coal occurs, but not of sufficient thickness to bo
worked ; excellent grey limestone has long been quar-
ried ; and red sandstone, more or less compact, is
plentiful. The soil is partly a fertile loam, partly clay,
partly a light rich mould ; and the entire area, with
slight exception, is under tillage. A rough tombstone,
rudely inscribed with the name of Sir AVilliam Douglas,
is in the vicinity of Broxmouth Iloirse ; and in Brox-
mouth grounds is a small mound, crowned with a cedar
of Lebanon, and known as Cromwell's Mount, since
from it Cromwell beheld the descent of Leslie's army
from Doon Hill. Three ancient chapels stood at the
villages of Belton, Hedderwick, and Pinkerton ; but
both they and the villages have long been extinct. A
monastery of Red or Trinity Friars was founded at the
town, in 1218, by Patrick, fifth Earl of Dunbar, and has
bequeathed to its site the name of Friar's Croft ; and
by Patrick, seventh Earl, a monastery of AVhite or Car-
melite Friars was founded in 1263 near the town, it is
thought on ground where some Roman medals were
exhumed at the forming of a reservoir. A Mcdson Dieu
of unknown date, stood at the head of High Street.
Mansions are Broxmouth Park, Lochend House, Bel-
ton House, Hedderwick House, and Winterfield House ;
and 9 proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 12 of between £100 and £500, 31 of from £50
to £100, and 81 of from £20 to £50. The seat of a
presbytery in the synod of Lothian and Twceddale, this
parish is divided ecclesiastically into Dunbar proper and
Belhaven, the former a living worth £443. Tliree
schools under the landward board — Belhaven, East
Barns, and AVest Barns — with respective accommodation
for 122, 107, and 200 children, had (1880) an average
attendance of 53, 122, and 102, and grants of £37, 3s.,
£90, lis., and £82. Valuation (1843) £27,701, (1882)
£37,635, 16s. 4d. Pop. of civil parish (1801) 3951, (1821)
5272, an increase due to the cotton factory of Belhaven
1815-23 ; (1831) 4735, (1861) 4944, (187l') 4982, (1881)
5393 ; of ecclesiastical parish (1881) i0i9.—Ord. Sur.,
sh. 33, 1863.
The presbytery of DuNBAR comprises the old parishes
of Cockburuspath, Dunbar, Innerwick, Oldhanistocks,
Prestonkirk, Spott, Stenton, Whittinghame, and White-
kirk-Tynninghame, and the quoad sacra parish of Bel-
haven. Pop. (1871) 12,432, (1881), 12,663, of whom
2545 were communicants of the Church of Scotland in
1878. See James Miller's History of Dunbar (Dunb.
1830 ; new ed. 1859).
Dunbamy, a parish of SE Perthshire, containing the
post-office village of Bridge of Eaiin, with a station on
the North British, 3f miles SSE of Perth, and also, 1
mile S by W, the village of Kintillo. It is bounded
NW by the Craigend section of Forteviot, N by Perth,
NE by Rhynd, E by Abcrnethy, SE by Dron, and W
by the Gleneanihill section of Dron and by Forgandenny.
Its greatest length, from NNE to SSW, is 4J miles ; its
greatest breadth, from E to W, is 4 miles ; and its
area is 4136J acres, of which 76h are water. Tlic river
Eaiin winds 5| miles east-by-soutliward along tlio For-
teviot and Abernethy borders and tlirough the interior
between banks of singular beauty ; and from its low-lying
valley the surface rises northward to 725 feet on richly-
wooded MoxcREiFFE, southward to 800 on the western
.slojKs of Dron Hill. Trap and Old Red sandstone are
the prevailing rocks, and botli have been largely quarried.
Five mineral springs at Pitcaitiily enjoy a higli medi-
cinal repute, and attracted so many invalids and other
visitors, as to occasion the erection of Bridge of Earn
village, and of hotels both there and at Pitcaithly. The
soil of the arable lands is variously till, clay, loam, and
alluvium, and has been higlily improved. lUustrious
natives or residents were Robert Craigic (1685-1760),
DUNBARROW
Lord President of the Court of Session ; Robert Craigie,
Lord Craigie (1754-1S34), also an eminent judge ; Sir
Francis Grant (1S03-78), president of the Royal Aca-
demy ; and his brother, General Sir James Hope Grant,
G.C.B. (1808-75). Mansions are Ballexdrick, Kil-
GRASTON, MoNCREiFFE, Dunbarny, and Kinmonth, the
two last being 2 miles W by N, and 3 miles NE, of
Bridge of Earn ; and 5 proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 3 of between £100 and £500,
3 of from £50 to £100, and 12 of from £20 to £50.
Dunbarny is in the presbytery of Perth and synod of
Perth and Stirling; the living is worth £300. The
ancient church stood at the extinct village of Dunbarny,
close to Dunbarny House ; its successor was built near
Bridge of Earn in 1684 ; and a few yards E of the site
of this is the present church (1787 ; 650 sittings).
Chapels subordinate to the ancient church stood at
Moncreiffe and at Kirkpottie in Dron ; and that at Mon-
creilfe continues to be the burying-place of the Mon-
creiffe family. There is also a Free church ; and a
public school, erected in 1873, with accommodation for
180 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 106,
and a grant of £104, 5s. Valuation (1882) £8429,
12s. 7d. Pop. (1801) 1066, (1831) 1162, (1851) 1056,
(1871) 913, (1881) 756.— Orel Sur., sh. 48, 1868.
Dunbarrow, a detached south-eastern section of Dun-
nichen parish, Forfarshire, bounded on the SE by Car-
myllie, and on all other sides by Kirkden, a strip of
which, hardly a furlong broad at the narrowest, separates
it from Dunnichen proper. With utmost length and
breadth of IJ and 1 mile, it rises in all directions to a
hill-summit (500 feet) of its own name, on which are
some vestiges of an ancient fort.
Dunbarton. See Dumbarton.
Dunbeath, a village, a bay, and a stream of Latheron
parish, Caithness. The village stands on the left bank
of Dunbeath Water, h mile above its mouth, 6:^ miles
NNE of Berriedale, and 20 SW of Wick, under which
it has a post office, with money order, savings' bank,
and telegraph departments. An ancient place, the kirk-
town once of a parish of its own name, it possesses an
inn and a public school ; and fairs are held at it on the
third Tuesda}' of August and November. Dunbeath
Castle, crowning a peninsulated sea-cliff, 1 mile S of the
village, is partly a fine modern mansion, partly an
ancient baronial fortalice, which, in April 1650, was
captured and garrisoned by General Hurry for the Mar-
quis of Montrose. Its owner, Wm. Sinclair-Thomson-
Sinclair, Esq. of Freswick (b. 1844 ; sue. 1876), holds
57,757 acres in the shire, valued at £6207 per annum.
The bay is small, and has no capacity for shipping,
but possesses value for its salmon fisheries, and as an
excellent station for herring-fishing. Dunbeath Water,
issuing from little Loch Braigh na h-Aibhne (980 feet),
runs 14| miles north-eastward and east-south-eastward
along a picturesque strath, and falls into the northern
curve of the bay.— Ort^. Sur., shs. 110, 109, 1877-78.
Dun-Bhail-an-Righ. See Beregonium.
Dunblane (Gael. ' hill of Blane '), a town and a parish
of Strathallan, S Perthshire. The town stands, 250 feet
above sea-level, on the left bank of Allan Water, which
here is spanned by a one -arch bridge, built early in the
15th century by Bishop Finlay Dermoch ; its station on
the Scottish Central section of the Caledonian, at the
junction of the Callander line, is 11 miles ESE of Cal-
lander, 28 SW of Perth, 5 N by W of Stirling, 41 i
WNW of Edinburgh, and 34| NE of Glasgow. An
ancient place, it was burned under Kenneth mac Alpin
(844-60) by Britons of Strathclyde, and in 912 was
ravaged by Danish pirates, headed by Regnwald. But
its church dates back to even remoter times, to the 7th
century, and seems to have been an offshoot of Kingarth
in Bute, for its founder was St Blane, of the race of the
Irish Picts, and bishop of that church of Kingarth which
Cathanhis uncle had founded. The bishopric of Dunl)lane
was one of the latest established by David I., in 1150
or somewhat earlier ; among its bishops was Maurice,
who, as Bruce's chaplain and abbot of Inchaffray, had
blessed the Scotch host at Dannockburn. Long after,
DUNBLANE
in post-Reformation days, the saintly Robert Leighton
(1613-84) chose it as the poorest and smallest of Scot-
land's sees, and held it for nine }'ears till his translation
in 1670 to the archbishopric of Glasgow. In him Dun-
blane's chief interest is centred ; and his memory lives
in the Leightonian Library, the Bishop's Well, and the
Bishop's Walk, a pleasant path leading southward not
far from the river, and overshadowed Ijy venerable
beech trees. Then, too, there is Tannahill's song,
Jessie, the Flower o' Dumblane, recalled when the sun
goes down behind Ben Lomond ; or one may remember
that Prince Charles Edward held a levee in Balhaldie
House, now an old ruinous mansion, on 11 Sept. 1745,
and that the Queen drove through Dunblane on 13
Sept. 1844. The title of Viscount Dunblane in the
peerage of Scotland, conferred in 1675 on Peregrine
Osborne, who in 1712 succeeded his father as Dnke of
Leeds, is now borne by his sixth descendant, George-
Godolphin Osborne, ninth Duke of Leeds and eighth Vis-
count Dunblane (b. 1828 ; sue. 1872).
The town itself, though ranking as a city, is townlike
in neither aspect nor extent. Richard Franck, indeed,
who travelled in Scotland about the year 1658, calls it
' dirty Dunblane,' and adds, ' Let us pass by it, and not
cumber our discourse with so inconsiderable a corpora-
tion.' But to-day the worst charges to be brought
against Dunblane are that its streets are narrow, its
houses old-fashioned — light enough charges, too, when
counterweighed by charming surroundings, a brand-new
hydropathic establishment, a good many handsome villas,
and various public edifices of more or less redeem-
ing character. Foremost, of course, comes the prison,
which, erected in 1842 on the site of Strathallan Castle,
had its front part converted in 1882 into commodious
police barracks, whilst a new wing to the rear contains
10 cells for prisoners whose term does not exceed a
fortnight. The neighbouring courthouse was built in
1869, with aid of £3973 from Government. The
Leightonian Library is also modern, a small house,
the marble tablet on whose front bears the Bishop's
arms and the inscription 'Bibliotheca Leightoniana ; '
it contains his be(]uest of 1400 volumes for the use
of the clergy of the diocese, a number since con-
siderably added to, and serves now as a public read-
ing-room. On a rising knoll beyond the cathedral is a
mineral spring, which, according to analysis made in
1873, contains 19 '200 grains of common salt to 14 '400
of muriate of lime, 2 '800 of sulphate of lime, 4 '00 of
carbonate of lime, and 1'36 of oxide of iron. This
spring having been acquired by a limited company, a
fine hydropathic establishment, capable of accommodat-
ing 200 visitors, was built (1875-76), at a cost of £22,000,
on grounds 18 acres in extent. It commands a magni-
ficent prospect of the Grampians, and, designed by
Messrs Peddle & Kinnear, is English in style, with
central clock-tower, projecting wings, a recreation room
40 yards long, billiard room, etc. The town has,
besides, 2 hotels, a post ofiice, with money order, savings'
bank, insurance, and telegraph departments, branches
of the Bank of Scotland and the Union Bank, a local
savings' bank, 13 insurance agencies, gas-works, a public
reading and amusement room, 2 curling clubs, a volun-
teer corps, a building company, and an agricultural
society. "Thursday is market-day ; and fairs are held
on the first Wednesday in March o. s., the Tuesday
after 26 May, 10 August o. s., and the first Tuesday in
November o. s. Handloom weaving is almost wholly
extinct, but employment is given to a number of the
townsfolk by the wool and worsted mills of Keir and
Springbank.
Of Dunblane Cathedral Archbishop Laud remarked
in 1633 that ' this was a goodly church before the De-
formation.' It consists of a ruinous aisled, eight-bayed
nave (130 by 58 feet, and 50 high), a square tower, and
an aisleless choir (80 by 30 feet), with a chapter-house,
sacristy, or lady-chapel to the N. The four lower stages
of the tower, which stands awkwardly into the S aisle of
the nave, are all that remains of King David's Norman
cathedral, and exhibit a shafted N doorway, a S W stair-
409
DUNBLANE
case, and a rib-vaulted basement story ; to them tw
more have been added, of Second Pointed date, ending in
a parapet and a low wooden spire, the height to whose
top is 128 feet. The nave is almost entirely pure First
Pointed, the work apparently of Bishop Clement (1233-
58), who at Rome in person represented to the Pope
that, the Columban monastery having fallen into lay
hands,* the church had remained for nearly ten years
without a chief pastor ; that he, when appointed, found
the church so desolate that he had no cathedral wherein
to lay his head ; and that in this unroofed cliurch the
divine offices were celebrated by a single rural chaplain.
In the clerestory the windows are of two lights, with a
foiled circle set over them, very plainly treated outside,
but highly elaborated by a range of shafted arches run-
ning continuously in front of the windows within, so
much apart from them as to leave a narrow passage round
the building in the thickness of the wall. The E window
is rather an unusual variety of triplicate form for a large
building, the central light being much taller and wider
than that on each side of it. In the W front the ar-
rangement is peculiarly fine. Over the doorway and
its blind arch on either side are three very long and
very narrow two-light windows of equal height, with a
cinquefoil in the head of the central window, and a
quatrefoil in the head of the side windows ; whilst above
is a vesica, set ^^dthin a bevilled fringe of bay-leaves
arranged zigzag^\^se with their points in contact. It
was of this W front that Mr Ruskin thus spoke to an
Edinburgh audience : — ' Do you recollect the W window
of your own Dunblane Abbey ? It is acknowledged to
be beautiful by the most careless observer. And why
beautiful ? Simply because in its great contours it has
the form of a forest leaf, and because in its decoration it
has used nothing but forest leaves. He was no common
man who designed that cathedral of Dunblane. I know
nothing so perfect in its simplicity, and so beautiful, so
far as it reaches, in all the Gothic with which I am
acquainted. And just in proportion to his power of
mind, that man was content to work under Nature's
teaching ; and,' instead of putting a merely formal dog-
tooth, as everybody else did at the time, he went dowoi to
the woody bank of the sweet river beneath the rocks on
which he was building, and he took up a few of the
fallen leaves that lay by it, and he set them in his arch,
side by side for ever. ' The choir, which since the Re-
formation has served as the parish church, retained very
few of its pristine features, when in 1872-73 it was re-
stored and reseated, at a cost of £2000, by the late Sir G.
G. Scott. The eighteen oaken stalls, of 16th century
workmanship, with misereres and ogee-headed canopies,
were ranged N and S of the site of the high altar ; a
fine organ was erected ; and two stained-glass windows
were inserted by the late Sir William Stirling-Maxwell
of Keir, whose skilful eye watched over the whole work
of restoration. In the course of it a sculptured stone
was discovered, which, measuring 6 by 2 feet, bears
figures of a finely carved cross, a man on horseback, a
dog or pig, etc. ; among other interesting monuments
are efligies of Bishop Finlay Dermoch, Bishop Michael
Ochiltree, Malise Earl of Strathearn, and his Countess;
but during the unfortunate repairs of 1817 the plain blue
marble slabs were removed that marked the graves of
James IV. 's spouse (not queen), fair Margaret Drummond
and her two sisters, who all were poisoned at Drummond
Castle in 1502. The bishop's palace, overlooking the
Allan, to the SW of the cathedral, has left some
vestiges ; but nothing remains of the deanery or of the
manses of abliot, treasurer, prebends, and archdeacon.
Tlie Free churcli was built in 1854, the U.P. church in
1835, and St Mary's Episcopal church in 1844, whicli
last. Early English in style, consists of a nave with S
porch ancl structural sacristy.
A burgh of barony, vdth the Karl of Kinnoull for
8U])erior, and also a police burgh, tlie town is now
governed by a senior magistrate, 3 junior magistrates,
and 6 police commissioners. The municipal constituency
* Skene overthrows the commonly-received helief that Dunblane
was ever a seat of (Juldeey (Celt. Scot., ii. 403).
410
DUNBLANE
numbered 232 in 1882, when the burgh valuation
amounted to £7608. Pop. (1841) 1911, (1851) 1816,
(1861) 1709, (1871) 1921, (1881) 2186.
The parish, containing also the village and station of
Kinbuck, 2| miles NNE of Dunblane, is bounded NE
by Ardoch, E by Blackford and Alva, SE by Logic, SW
by Lecropt and Kilmadock, W by Kilmadock, and N by
Monzievaird (detached) and Muthill. Its utmost length,
from NNW to SSE, is 7g miles ; its width, from E to W,
varies between 7 furlongs and 6f miles ; and its area is
18,636§acres, ofwliich93|are water. Allan Water winds
8J miles south-south-westward, partly along the Ardoch
boundary, but mainly through the interior ; and Wharry
Burn, its aflluent, runs 5| miles west-south-westward,
chiefly along the south-eastern border ; whilst Ardoch
Burn meanders 5^ miles south-south-eastward and south-
ward through the western interior on its way to the
Teith. The surface declines along the Allan, in the
furthest S of the parish, to close on 100 feet above sea-
level, thence rising north-eastward to 878 feet beyond
Linns, 1500 at Glentye Hill, 2072 at *Blairdenon Hill,
1955 at *Mickle Corum, and 1683 at *Little Corum —
north-north-westward to 370 near Hillside, 509 near
Blarlean, 617 at Upper Glastry, 902 near Cromlix Cot-
tage, and 1653 at *Slymaback, where asterisks mark
those summits that culminate on the confines of the
parish. So that Dunblane comprises the principal part
of Strathallan, with a skirting of the Ochils on the E,
of the Braes of Doune on the W, and exhibits, especially
along the banks of its clear-flowing river, a series of
charming landscapes. The district to the N of the
town is mostly bleak and dreary, that towards the NW
consists in large measure of moors and swamps, and that
towards the E includes part of Sheriffmuih, and else-
where is occupied by heathy heights ; but to the S of
the town is all an assemblage of cornfiehls, parks, and
meadows, of wooded dells, and gentle rising-grounds.
The climate of the strath, in consequence partly of
immediate shelter from the winds, partly of the strath's
position in the centre of Scotland, at nearly equal dis-
tance from the German and Atlantic Oceans and from
the Moray and Solway Firths, is singularly mild and
healthy, free alike from biting E winds and from the
rain-dropiiing mists of the W. Eruptive rocks prevail
throughout the hills, and Red sandstone underlies all
the arable land, whose soil varies from gravel to reddish
clay. James Finlayson, D.D. (1758-1808), the eminent
divine, was born at Nether Cambushinnie farm — now
in Ardoch parish, but then in that of Dunblane, — and
went to school at the town. The Keir estate extends
into this parish, mansions in which are Ivippenross, KiP-
PENDAViE, Whitecross, Duthiestone, Kilbryde Castle,
and Crojilix Cottage. Eight proprietors hold each an
annual value of £500 and upwards, 6 of between £100
and £500, 6 of from £50 to £100, and 27 of from £20 to
£50. Dunblane is the seat of a presbytery in the synod
of Perth and Stirling ; the living is worth £413. Dun-
blane public, Kinbuck public, and Dunblane Episcopal
schools, with respective accommodation for 364, 92, and
62 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 223,
76, and 87, and grants of £191, 18s., £63, 18s., and
£67, 17s. Valuation (1866) £19,075, 12s. 7d., (1882)
£27,687, 4s. lid. Pop. (1801) 2619, (1831) 3228, (1861)
2528, (1871)2765, (1881) dl22.— Orel. Sur., sh. 39, 1869.
The prcsl)ytery of Dunblane comprises the ancient
parishes of Aberfoyle, Balquhidder, Callander, Dun-
blane, Kilmadock, Kincardine, Kippcn, Lecropt, Logic,
Port of Monteith, Tillicoultry, and Tulliallan, and the
quoad sacra parishes of Bridge of Allan, Buck ly vie,
Gartmore, and Trossachs, with the chapelry of Norris-
ton. Pop. (1871) 25,804, (1881) 26,501, of whom 5054
were communicants of the Churcli of Scotlaiul in 1878.
— The Free Church also has a presbytery of Dunblane,
^vith churclics at Iialquhidder, Bridge of Allan, Buck-
lyvie, Callander, Dunblane, Gartmore, Kilmadock, Kip-
])en, Norriston, and Tillicoultry, which together had
2203 communicants in 1881.
See vol. ii. of Billings' Baronial and Ecclesiastical
Antiquilics (1852) ; T. S. Muir's Characteristics of Old
DUNBLANE, DOUNE, & CALLANDER RAILWAY
Church Architecture (1861) ; and a History of Dunhlane,
by Mr John Miller, of Glasgow, announced as preparing
in Aug. 1881.
Dunblane, Doune, and Callander Railway. See Cale-
donian Railway.
Dunbog, a parisli of NW Fife, whoso church stands
3J miles E by S of the station and post-town Newburgh.
Bounded NW by the Firth of Tay, NE by Flisk, the
Ayton section of Abdie, and Creich, SE by Moni-
mail, and SW by the main body of Abdie, the parish
has an utmost length from NW to SE of 3g miles, a
varying breadth of 3 furlongs and 2J miles, and an area
of 2.396^ acres, of which 1^ are 'inks' and 70f fore-
shore. From a shore-line, 74 furlongs in extent, the
surface rises rapidly to 400 feet at Higham and 707 on
Dunbog Hill, the former of which eminences is culti-
vated to the top, and commands a superb view of the
basin and screens of the Tay, of lower Strathearn, and
of the frontier Grampians, whilst the southern is uncul-
tivated and almost barren. The valley between con-
tains the hamlet and the church, and is traversed by
the road from Newburgh to Cupar. The rocks are
mainly eruptive ; and the soil in a few fields is argilla-
ceous, but mostly is a shallow rich black mould, resting
on either rock or gravel. About 1820 acres are arable,
and 30 or so are underwood. Dunbog House, belonging
to the Earl of Zetland, occupies the site of a preceptory
of the monks of Balmerino ; and is alleged, but not on
good authority, to have been built by Cardinal Bethune.
COLLAIRNEY Castle is a ruin. In the presbytery of
Cupar and synod of Fife, Dunbog includes, quoad sacra,
portions of Abdie and Flisk ; the living is worth £345.
The church, built in 1803, contains 240 sittings ; and a
public school, with accommodation for 120 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 76, and a grant of
£58, 9s. Valuation (1882) £3799, 2s. lid. Pop. of
civil parish (1831) 197, (1861) 207, (1871) 220 ; oi q. s.
parish (1871) 395, (1881) 386.— Ord Sur., sh. 48,
1868.
Dunborerraig, an inland hill in Killarrow parish,
Islay island, Argyllshii'C. A ruined ancient fortalice is
on it ; has walls 12 feet thick, with a gallery running
through them ; measures 52 feet in diameter ^dthin the
walls ; and is thought to have been built by the Scandi-
navians, and used by the Macdonalds.
Dun, Bridge of. See Dun, Forfarshire.
Dunbuck. See Dtjmbuck.
Dunbuy, an insulated rock in Cruden parish, Aber-
deenshire, J mile S by W of the BuUers of Buchan.
Pierced by a magnificent natural arch, it is thought to
be the prototype of the Scrath Rock in Shirley's Cam-
'paAgn at Home, and is mentioned by Sir Walter Scott
in his Antiquary ; whilst Dr Johnson described it as 'a
double protuberance of stone, open to the main sea on
one side, and parted from the land by a very narrow
channel on the other. ' Its name (dun-buidhe) signifies
the ' yellow rock,' and alludes to its being covered with
guano from innumerable sea-fowl.
Duncanlaw, an ancient chapelry in the E of Yester
parish, Haddingtonshire. Its chapel was endowed by
Robert III., but is now quite extinct.
Duncansbay Head, a promontory in Canisbay parish,
Caithness, forming the north-eastern extremity of the
Scottish mainland, 1| mile E of John o' Groat's House,
and 18J miles N by E of Wick. Rising almost sheer
from the sea to a height of 210 feet, it is clothed to the
very brink of the precipice with a mixture of green-
sward and stunted heath, and bears remains of an ancient
watch-tower on its highest point, which commands a
magnificent view of the Pentland Firth and the Orkneys,
and over the Moray Firth, away to the seaboard and hills
of Elgin, Banff, and Aberdeen shires. In its north