THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
O 11 D N A iN C E
GAZETTEER OF SCOTLAND:
A SURVEY OF SCOTTISH TOPOGliAFHY,
Statistical, §iagntpTrir;tl, iiiiiJ fjistaiicil
EDITED BY
FRANCIS H. GROOME,
A.SSISTANT KDITOK OF ' Til K CI.OBE ENCYf'LOI'.Eni.V. '
rvN^^s^^^^,
VOLUME II.
E D I N B U E G II :
THOMAS C. JACK, GRANGE PUBLISHING WORKS.
LONDON: 4.^ LUDGATE HILL.
GLASGOW: 48 GORDON STREET. ABERDEEN 26 BROAD STREET.
18 8 4.
V.-?.
742145
Ardviaick Castle, Suthcrlandt-liirt;.
l.iiili Arkai-f, Iiiveiiic'ss-.sliiie.
IX
Cndgluill Hijuse, Ceres, t.fufchiie.
Ciaigicvar Castle, Loocliel-Cushnie, Aberd-unshiru.
(lid iMiin-wbin Custle, liutlierhuidsliiie.
Duiii'ubiii Castle, Siitlimlaiidshlre.
XI
Dunottar Castle, Kiucaidiue.^htre, in the lith eeutury. Kn.piii Slezer's TUeatruia Scot(it (lOl'y).
Dimkuld, Pcrlhshiie, in Uie 17tli Leiitury. From Slezers TutiUrum itodtt (lo'JJ).
XII
Lj(f^^^
S^^^£.i^i^®*a«!S5^
*fS-5s^>-^
Fort Aui^ustus, Invrness- shire.
■<ya.£(^aN /J
frciidraught lluuse, /Vbunicuiishiiu, wiUi thu luiiis of the old C'astlu
XIII
Sculptured Front of Old College, Glasgow (founded in 1450).
Piirt of the (iiiadniuglc, Old College, (Jlasgow.
XIV
nriiP'!
- ' •- ■ t B
Gordon Castle, Monysliire. From Nattfcs' Scotia i)«/)(0(«.
Iiivertic.ss at tlic cmi of tlio ITtli cMiliiry. I'roiii SlczcrV Tlii:«ti-am Si-oIki (ic.'.t:}).
XV
Perth ill the 17ih uoiituiy. From Slezei's T/uatrum Scout (1693).
I'.us.T ut lviiliooni:ikie, ' crths liic, iii l.i.^l vuiilu.y.
XVI
ORDNANCE GAZE
^FfTBARTHOLOMEW EDINBURGH
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CORWAR
Corwar, an estate, with a mansion, in Colraonell
parish, S AjTshire, 3^ miles ESE of Banhill station.
See COLMONFXL.
Cor3miulzie. See CoRRiEsniiziE.
Coryvreckan. See Cokkievrechan
Coshieville, a place, with an inn, in Strath Appin,
Dull parish, Perthshire, 5i miles W by N of Aberfeldy,
on a road leading northward to Tummel Bridge, over a
pass 1262 feet high.
Cessans. See Glamis.
Costa, a headland at the northern extremity of the
mainland of Orkney, on the mutual border of Evie and
fUrsay parishes. Projecting to a point 4 miles EXE of
the Brough of Birsay, it comprises a hill 478 feet high,
and presents to the ocean a bold precipitous cliff. See
Evie.
Costerton House. See Crichtox.
Cotbum, a hill (559 feet) on the i_utual border of
Turriff and ilonquhitter parishes, N Aberdeenshire, i^
miles NE of the town of Turriff.
Cotehill, a loch, measuring 1 J by 1 furlong, in Slains
parish, E Aberdeenshire, 1 mile W by X of the church.
Cothal, a place with factories of tweed and woollen
cloth in Fin tray parish, Aberdeenshire, on the left bank
of the Don, 7k miles XNW of Aberdeen, and 2| NXW
of Dyce Jimction. The factories were established in
1798, and are famous for both the quantity and the
quality of the tweeds which they turn out.
Cotiiiemuir. See Keig.
Cotton, a village in Auchindoir and Kearn parish, W
Aberdeenshire, 7 furlongs ESE of Rhynie.
Coul, a mansion in Contin parish, SE Ross-shire, a
little NE of the parish chm'ch. Built in 1821, it
is a handsome edifice, with finely-wooded policies ; its
owner. Sir Arth\ir-Geo. -Ramsay Mackenzie, eleventh
Bart, since 1673 (b. 1865; sue. 1873), holds 43,189
acres in the shire, valued at £5215 per annuni
Coul, a mansion in the parish and 1 mile EXE of the
station of Auchterarder, SE Perthshire.
Coulatt, a loch on the mutual border of Knockando
and Dallas parishes, Elginshire, 4 mUes "W by X of
Knockando church. Lying 1100 feet above sea-level,
it measures li by 1 furlong, and sends off the Burn
of Coulatt, flowing 6^ miles E and SSE to the Spey, 7
furlongs SSE of the said church. — Ord. Sur., sh. 85,
1876.
Coull, a coUier hamlet in Markinch parish, Fife, If
mile XW of Markinch town.
Coull, a parish of S Aberdeenshire, whose church
stands 3;^ miles XX W of Aboj-ne station, this being 32i
miles W by S of Aberdeen. It is bounded X by Leochel-
Cushnie, E by Lumphanan, S by Aboyne, W by Logie-
Coldstone and Tarland-Migvie. Irregidar in outline, it
has an utmost length from XXE to SSW of 5f miles, a
varjdng breadth of 5| furlongs and 4| miles, and an area
of 9053 acres. The drainage is carried mainly to the
Dee, but partly also to the Don — by the Bum of Tarland
to the former, and to the latter by the Bum of Corse.
In the extreme SE the surface sinks to 410 feet above
sea-level, thence rising westward to Scar Hill of Tilly-
duke (984 feet), and northward to *Mortlich (1248),
Leadhlich (1278), *Crag (1563), and Loanhead (994),
where asterisks mark those summits that culminate on
the confines of the parish. The rocks are all of primary
formation, the eastern hills consisting chiefly of reddish,
the western of grepsh, granite ; and the soils vary from
gravel-mixed clay to loam and moorish uplands. A
' Druidical ' circle on Tomnaverie, a number of small
cairns upon Corse Hill, and ti-aces of the Terry Chapel
on Xewton of Corse make up the antiquities, with the
ruined castles of Corse and Coull. The latter at the
opening of the 13th century was the seat of the great
Durward family, of whom it was said that, a Durward
dying, the church bell of Coull tolled of its o^vn accord.
A stately pile, it measured some 50 yards square, and
had five turrets and four hexagonal towers. Corse Castle
bears date 1581, and, though long roofless, is compara-
tively entire. The lands of Corse, forming part of the
barony of Coull and O'Xeil, were in 1476 bestowed on
19
COUPAR-ANGUS
Patrick Forbes, armour-bearer to James III. , and youngest
son of the second Lord Forbes. Among his descendants
were Patrick Forbes (1564-1635), Bishop of Aberdeen
from 1618 ; and his son, John Forbes (1593-1648), the
scholar and Episcopalian confessor, whose estate was
repeatedly ravaged by the famous freebooter Gilderoy.
The bishop's male line failing with his grandchildren,
Corse passed to the Forbeses of Craigievar, and now is
held by the late Sir John Forbes' second son, James
Ochoncar Forbes, Esq. (b. 1837 ; sue. 1846), who owns
1946 acres in the shire, valued at £1679 per annum. His
modem mansion, near the old castle, is 3^ miles NW
of Lumphanan station, and 4J NE of CouU church.
Two proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 2 others holding between £100 and £500,
and 1 between £50 and £100. In the presbytery of
Kincardine O'Xeil and synod of Aberdeen, CouU has
since 1621 given off the Corse di\-ision quoad sacra to
Leochel-Cushnie ; the living is worth £202. The church
(1792 ; restored 1876 ; 220 sittings) has a fine-toned bell
that was cast in Holland in 1644. A public school, with
accommodation for 103 children, had (1880) an average
attendance of 83, and a grant of £79, 12s. 6d. Valua-
tion (1881) £4006, 15s. 7d. Pop. (1801) 679, (1831)
767, (1851) 734, (1871) 824, (1881) 783.— Ord Sur., sh.
76, 1S74.
Coull, Braes of. See Lintrathex.
CouUin. See Cuchullix.
Coulmony House. See Ardclach.
Coulport, a hamlet on the W side of Roseneath parish,
Dumbartonshire, on Loch Long, 4 miles N by W of
Cove. It maintains a feiry across Loch Long to Arden-
tinny, and has a new pier, erected in 1880, when also seve-
ral acres were laid out for feuing purposes. The Kibble
Crystal Palace, in the Glasgow Botanic Gardens, was
removed from Coulport in 1872.
Coulter, a loch in the S of St Ninians parish, Stirling-
shire, near the foot of the Lennox Hills, 6;^ miles SSW
of Stirling. "With an utmost length and width of 5 and
3 furlongs, it is shallow towards the "W, but very deep
to the NE ; contains perch and pike ; and sends off its
superfluence by Auchenhowie Bum to the Carron. Dur-
ing the great earthquake of Lisbon (1735) it was vio-
lently agitated, and sank about 10 or 12 feet. — O/d.
Sur., sh. 31, 1867.
Coulter, Lanarkshire. See Culter.
Coultra. See Balmerixo.
Countesswells, an estate, with an old mansion, in
Peterculter parish, Aberdeenshire, 4f miles WSW of
Aberdeen. Its owner, ilajor And. GammeU of Drum-
tochty Castle, holds 5208 acres in the shire, valued at
£5470 per annum. There are a post oflBce of Countess-
wells under Aberdeen and a public school.
Coupar-Angus, a to^^m and a parish partly in Forfar,
but mainly in Perth, shire. The town stands in the
centre of Strathmore, near the left bank of the Isla, on a
small tributary of that river, 4J miles SE of I31air-
gowrie, 12| XE by X of Perth, and 15 XW of Dundee ;
whilst its station, the junction for Blairgowrie, on the
Scottish Midland section of the Caledonian, is 15| miles
from Perth, 22 from Dimdee, 62f N by W of Edinburgh,
and 79^ XE of Glasgow. The part of it on the left bank
of the rivulet is in Angus or Forfarshire ; and, being
the older portion, occasioned the whole to be called
Coupar-Angus. Dating from a remote antiquity, the
town was long a time-worn, decayed, and stagnant place,
but within recent years has undergone great revival and
improvement, and become a centre of much traffic and a
seat of considerable trade. It is governed by nine police
commissioners, under selected sections of the general
police and improvement act of Scotland, adopted in July
1871 ; and has a post office, with money order, savings'
bank, insurance, and telegraph departments, branches of
the Bank of Scotland, the Union Bank, and the Xational
Bank, a local savings' bank, five jirincipal inns, a gas
company, a town-house with a steeple, a literary associa-
tion, masonic and good templar lodges, a Bible society, a
young men's Christian association, bowling and curling
clubs, and a volunteer corps. In 1874 a much-needed
2S9
COUR
water supply was iutroJuccJ, at a cost of nearly £4000,
from springs on the Pitcur estate, Avhich are guided to
a reservoir close to the Dundee turnpike, containing
55,000 gallons. There are three linen- works, a tannery,
farina works, a brewery, and steam saw-mills. A grain
market is held on Thursday, and cattle markets fall on
the third Thursday of every month but June, August,
September, and October. The Queen has driven thrice
through Coupar- Angus, on 11 Sept. and 1 Oct. 1S44,
and 31 Aug. 1S50. Henry Guthrie (1600-76), Bishop
of Dunkcld, was a native. A Roman camp here, imme-
diately E of the churchyard, is supposed to have been
formed either by Agricola or LoUius Urbicus, and seems
to have been a square of 1200 feet, with two strong
ramparts and wide ditches ; but now is represented only
by remains of the eastern part of the ramparts. In
1164 King Malcolm the ilaiden founded the Cistercian
abbey of St Mary's within the area of this Roman camp.
A large and stately structure, richly endowed by several
of the Scottish kings and by the Hays of Errol, it passed
at the dissolution to the Balmerino family. An ivy-
clad fragment, in the SW corner of the churchyard, is
all that is left of it, a beautiful arch having been
demolished in 17S0 to furnish material for the parish
church. This, dating originally from 1681, was in great
measure reconstructed in 1780, and thoroughly rebuilt
in 1859. Other churches are the Free, U.P. (1790),
Evangelical Union (1789), Original Secession (1826),
and Episcopal (1847). A new one-story public school,
erected (1876-77) at a cost of £2700, with accommoda-
tion for 502 children, had in 1880 an average attendance
of 299, and a grant of £286, 18s. 6d. Pop. (1793) 1604,
(1841) 1868, (1861) 1943, (1871) 2149, (1881) 1959.
The parish, containing also the villages of Arthur-
stone, Balbrogie, and AVashington, is bounded N by
Alyth, NE by Meigle, SE by Meigle and Kettins, S by
Cargill, and NW by Caputh, Blairgowrie, and Bendochy.
Its greatest length, from NE to SW, is 6 miles ; its
lireadth varies between 5 furlongs and 2| miles ; and its
area is 4769| acres, of which 184 are in Forfarshire, and
70^ are water. The Lsla, winding lOg miles ' in many
a loop and link,' roughly traces all the northern and
north-western border ; along it lies a considerable ex-
tent of haugh-land, protected by embankments, 7 feet
high, from inundations by the river. The rest of the
area mainly consists of the level grounds of Strathmore,
but is bisected from NE to SW by a ridge, along which
runs the great highway from Perth to Aberdeen, and
which commands a splendid view of the Sidlaw Hills
along the one side of the strath, and of the Grampian
ilountains on the other. In the extreme SW the sur-
face sinks to 100 feet above sea-level, thence rising to
224 near Keithick, 172 at Kemphill, 210 at Easter Den-
head, and 208 near Arthurbank. The formation is Old
Red sandstone ; and the soil is mainly a good sandy
loam. Mansions are Balgersho House, Keithick House,
lsla Park, Balbrogie, Arthurstone, Denliead, Kinloch,
and Bankhead ; and 6 proprietors hold 'each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 15 of between £100 and
£500, 14 of from £50 to £100, and 45 of from £20 to
£50. Giving olf a portion quoad sacra to Meigle,
Coupar-Angus is in the j)resbytery of Jleigle and synod
of Angus and Mearns ; the living is worth £442. Valua-
tion (1882) £16,297, 14s. 2d., of which £1844, 16s. Id.
was for the Forfarshire section. Pop. of civil parish
(1801) 2416, (1831 ) 2615, (1861) 2929, (1871) 3055, (1881)
2819, of whom 265 were in Forfarshire ; of q. s. parish
(1871) 2797, (18S1) 2i,i&.—0rdSur., shs. 48, 56, 1868.
See the Rev. C. Rogers' and Major-Gen. A. S. Allan's
licntal Look and Jli^torical Notices of the Abbey of
Coupar-Aiifjus {2 vols., Grampian Club, 1879-80).
Cour, a mansion in Saddell parish, Kintyre, Argyll-
shire, on Kilbrannan Sound, 7i miles N by E of Carra-
dale.
Courance, a hamlet in Kirkmichael parish, Dumfries-
shire, 9 miles NW of Lockerbie, under wliich it has a
post office. Courance House is the seat of John Seton-
Wightman, Esq. (b. 1846 ; sue. 1879), who owns 2750
aiTes in the .shire, valued at £1705 i)er annum.
290
COVESEA
Courthill. See Lanoside.
Cousland, a village in Cranston parish, Edinburgh-
shire, ;!^ miles ENE of Dalkeith, under which it has a
post office. It was burned by the Protector Somerset in
1547, at the time of the battle of Pinkie. A chapelry
of Cousland was annexed to Cranston parish about the
era of the Reformation ; its chapel stood on the SW
side of the village, and has left some remains.
Couston. See Bathgate.
Couthally. See Cowtiially.
Couttie, a hamlet in Bendochy parish, E Perthshire,
on the right bank of the lsla, 1 mile NW of Coupar-
Angus.
Cove, a fishing village in Nigg parish, Kincardineshire,
with a station on the Caledonian railway, 4f miles S by
E of Aberdeen, under which it lias a post office. At
it are St Mary's Episcopal church (1868), a public and
an Episcopal school, an hotel, and a harbour, which,
mainly natural, or very slightly improved by art, serves
often as a place of refuge to boats in high north-easterly
winds. The fishermen engage in various kinds of fishery,
and have considerable reputation for the drying and
smoking of haddocks. A cave enters from the beach in
the vicinity, and probably gave name to the village.
Pop. (1861) 385, (1871) 450, (1881) 550.
Cove, a charming watering-place in Roseneath parish,
Dumbartonshire, to the right or E of the entrance to
Loch Long, IJ mile WNW of Kilcreggan, and 6 miles
by water WNW of Greenock. Of modern growth, and
conjoined as a police burgh with Kilcreggan, it comprises
a number of neat villas and cottages. At it are a post
office, with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph
departments, a steamboat pier, and Craigrownie quoad
sacra church. See Kilcreggan and Craigrownie.
Cove, a fishing hamlet in Cockburnspath parish,
Berwickshire, 3 furlongs E of Cockburnspath station.
Its harbour, 3 furlongs further to the eastward, is ap-
proached through a sloping tunnel, which, hewn out of
soft rock, is 65 yards long, and just wide enough to
admit a horse and cart ; it has a pier for ii.sliing-boats on
a little bay, surrounded by cliffs 100 to 200 feet in
height. The hamlet, consisting of little more than a
score of one-story cottages, had a fishing population of
21, of whom no fewer than 11 perished, within -h mile
of home, in the disastrous gale of 14 Oct. 1881.
Cove, an estate, with a mansion, in Kirkpatrick-
Fleming parish, Dumfriesshire, on the left bank of Kirtle
Water, 1 mile W of Kirkpatrick station.
Cove. See Ulva and CAOLisroitT.
Cove-a-Chiaran. See Campbeltown.
Covesea (j)Opularly Causca), a little village on the
coast of Di"ainie parish, Elginshire, 5J miles NNW of
Elgin, and 3^ W of Lossiemouth. The shore here is
rocky, precipitous, and strikingly picturesque. In one
place a gently sloping road leads through a natural arch,
with stately pillars, to a stretch of fine natural meadow on
the beach, shut in to the landward by smooth and mural
Old Red sandstone cliffs, GO to 100 feet high ; elsewhere
are caves, fissures, arches, stacks, and fantastic forms of
rock, various and romantic as the ruins of a vast city,
and far too numerous to be appreciablj' damaged Ibr
ages to come by either the elements or the hand of man.
Two pecidiarly interesting objects are an isolated rock,
which, looking like an inverted pyramid, is 60 feet high,
30 across the top, but only 8 aci'oss the base ; and the
Laird's Stable, a cavern, which, once the abode of a
hermit, was used as a stable by Sir Robert Gordon of
Gordon.stown during the '45. In another cave, near
llopeman, have been found a flint arrow-head, bones of
tlic beaver and the crane, and other traces of prehistoric
occui)ancy ; and the roof of a third is sculptured with
figures of the half-moon, sceptre, fish, and suchlike
symbols of ancient Celtic art. A reef or chain of skerries,
extending parallel to the coast, about J mile from the
shore, was the scene of many shijiwrecks ; but since
1846 it has been crowned with a lighthouse, built at a
cost of £11,514, and showing a revolving light, visible
at the distance of I85 nautical miles. The light a]>])ears
in its brightest state once every minute, and, from W by
COVINGTON
COWPITS
N i N to SE by E ^ E, it is of the natural appearance ;
but from SE by E ^ E to SE J S, it has a red colour.
See pp. 323-337 of Jas. Brown's Round Table Club
(Elgin, 1S73).
Covington, a hamlet and a parish iu the Upper Ward
of Lanaikshire. The hamlet stands lietvreen the Clyde
and the Caledonian railway, \\ mile X by E of its
station and post-to^vn Thankerton, this being 33^ miles
S\V of Edinburgh and 36J SE of Glasgow ; at it is the
parish chmxh (230 sittings), an old building enlarged in
the early part of last century. A neighbouring tower,
built in 1442 by Lindsay of Covington barony, is now a
fine ruin ; and Covington Mill was the place where that
famous martyr of the Covenant, Donald Cargill, was
seized by Irving of Bonshaw in May 16S1.
The parish, containing also the villages of Thankerton,
Kewtown of Covington (7 furlongs XXE of Thankerton),
and Hillhead (f mile XXE of the church), comprises
the ancient parishes of Covington and Thankerton,
united some time between 1702 and 1720. Bounded
XW by Pettinain, E by Libberton, SE by Syming-
ton, and "W by Carmichael, it has an utmost length
of 5 miles from XXE to SSW, viz., from the Clyde
below Brown Ford to the top of Tinto ; its greatest
breadth, from E to W, is 2g miles ; and its area is
5167| acres, of which 53 are water. The Clyde, here
winding 3| miles west-north-westward and northward,
roughly traces all the boundary with Libberton ; and
three or four bums run to it through the interior or on
the borders of the parish. In the extreme XE the sur-
face sinks to 630 feet above sea-level, thence rising to
829 at Hillhead, 1049 near Wellbrae, 1013 at Chester,
661 at Thankerton bridge, and 2335 on Tixxo ; it is
divided among meadows or low well-cultivated fields
along the Clyde, pastoral slopes, and heathy uplands.
Nearly two-fifths of the entire area are under the plough,
and about 80 acres are in wood. Other antiquities than
Covington Tower are a cairn, three camps, and a
' Druidical temple.' Here, in 1S28, his father being
parish minister, was bom the late Lord Advocate, "Wil-
liam Watson, who in ISSO was raised to the peerage as
Baron Watson of Thankerton. St John's Kirk is the
only mansion : and 2 proprietors hold each an annual
value of more, 2 of less, than £500. Covington is in
the presbytery of Biggar and synod of Lothian and
Tweeddale ; the living is worth £265. A public school
at Xewtown of Covington, ^"ith accommodation for 70
children, had (ISSO) an average attendance of 44, and
a grant of £48, 3s. Valuation (1882) £6487, 9s. Pop.
(1801) 456, (1831) 521, (1861) 532, (1871) 454, (1881)
444.— Crrf. Sur., sh. 23, 1865.
Cowal, the mid eastern district of Argyllshire. Its
north-western extremity is an isthmus between the head
of Loch Fyne and the boundary with Perthshire ; whilst
its north-eastern is a range of mountains along the
boundary with Perth and Dumbarton shires, to the
head of Loch Long ; and all the rest is a peninsula
bounded E by Loch Long and the Firth of Cl3'de, S by
the Kyles of Bute, and W by Loch Fyne. Its length,
from the head of Glen Fyne on the XXE to Lamont
Point on the SSW, is 37 mUes ; and its greatest breadth
is 16 J mUes. It comprehends the parishes of Lochgoil-
head and Kilmorich, Dunoon and Kihnun, Strachur and
Stralachlan, Inverchaolain, Kibnodan, and Kilfinan, and
the quoad sacra paiishes of Ardentinny, Inellan, Kiru,
and Sandbank, with the chapelries of Strone, Toward,
Kilbride, and Tighnabruaich. See Argyllshire.
Cowcaddens. See Glasgow.
Cowdailly. See Cowth.a.lly.
Cowdenbeath, a village in the S of Beath parish, Fife, 2
miles WS W of Lochgelly, and 3 furlongs X by W of Cow-
denbeath station on the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee
section of the Xorth British, this being 5J miles EXE
of Dunfermline. It has a post office under Lochgelly,
with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph depart-
ments, a Free church, and a public school ; and in the
neighbourhood are the extensive collieries of the Cowden-
bea^th Coal Co. Pop. (1861) 1148, (1871) 1457, (1881)
2712.
Cowden Castle, a mansion in Muckart parish, Perth-
shire, 2J miles EXE of Dollar. Occupjang the site of
an ancient fortalice, which belonged to the see of St
Andrews, it is the seat of John Christie, Esq. (b. 1824 ;
sue. 1859), who owns 1672 acres in the shire, valued at
£1625 per annum.
Cowdenhill, a hamlet near Borrowstounness, NW
Linlithgowshire.
Cowdenknowes, an estate, with a mansion, part ancient
and part modern, in Earlston parish, BerAvickshire, on
the left bank of Leader Water, 1 mile S of Earlston
village. Its strong old tower, with deep pit beneath
and ' hanging tree ' outside (the latter cut down barely
50 years since), was the seat of those ancestors of the
Earls of Home whose feudal cruelties called forth the
malediction —
' Vengeance ! vengeance ! when and where ?
Upon the house of Cowdenknowes, now and ever mair.'
Their estate has long been alienated, and now is held by
William Cotesworth, Esq. (b. 1827), who owns 2331
acres in Berwick and Roxburgh shires, valued at £2702
per annum. Behind the house rises Earlston Black
Hill (1031 feet), a picttiresque conical eminence, crowned
with remains of a Roman camp. All know the plaintive
air and one at least of the three versions of the ballad —
' " O the hroom, and the bonny, bonny broom.
And the broom of the Cowdenknowes,"
And aye sae sweet as the lassie sang
I' the bught, milking the ewes."
But the broom-sprinkled braes and haughs of Cowden-
knowes— ' one of the most classical and far-famed spots
in Scotland' — ^had been sadly stripped of their golden
adornments by the so-called march of agrictdtural im-
provement, when, in the winter of 1861-62, the hand of
Xature nipped what man had spared. See pp. 133-137
of Lauder's Scottish Rivers (ed. 1874).
Cowey's Linn, a waterfall of 35 feet in leap in Eddie-
stone parish. Peeblesshire, on a head-stream of Eddlestone
Water, 3 miles X by W of Eddlestone village.
Cowgate. See Ditsdee, Edixeuegh, and Macch-
lixe.
Cowglen, a hamlet and a mansion in Eastwood parish,
Renfrewshire, 2 ndles W by S of PoUokshaws. Coal
and limestone are worked iu the vicinity.
Cowhill Tower, a mansion in Hol}"wood parish, Dimi-
friesshire, on the right bank of the Xith, 4^ miles XXW
of Dumfries.
Cowie, a fishing village and a stream of Kincardine-
shire. The village, in Fetteresso parish, stands on the
X side of Stonehaven Bay, and f mile X by E of Stone-
haven town. Anciently it was a free burgh, under
charter of Malcolm Ceannmor, who, on a rock over-
looking the sea, is said to have built a small fortalice — •
the Castle of Cowie. Of this some vestiges remain,
while its First Pointed chapel, which afterwards be-
longed to Marischal College, Aberdeen, is a picturesque
ruin, with a burjing-ground still in use. Cowie House,
hard by, is a seat of Alex. Innes, Esq. of Raemoir (b.
1812 ; "sue. 1S63), who o-wns 4750 acres in the shire,
valued at £2847 per annum. Cowie Water, rising on
the western border of Glenber\ie parish at 1000 feet
above sea-level, winds 13 miles eastward through the
rocky and wooded scenery of Glenbervie and Fetteresso
parishes, and at Stoxehavex falls into Stonehaven Bay.
It is fairly stocked with small trout ; is subject to high
freshets, which often do considerable damage ; and is
crossed, | mile XXW of Stonehaven, by the grand
fourteen -arched Glenury Viaduct of the Aberdeen rail-
way, which, in one part 190 feet high, commands a fine
view of the river's ravine, the vale and town of Stone-
haven, Dimnottar Castle, and other features of the sur-
rounding landscape. — Ord. Sur., shs. 66, 67, 1871.
Cowiefauld, a hamlet in Strathnnglo parish, Fife, 2
miles WSW of Strathmiglo \illage.
Cowie's Linn. See Cowey's Lixx.
Cowlairs. See Gl.\sgow.
Cowlatt, Loch. See Coulatt.
Cowpits, a village in Inveresk parish, Edinburghshire,
COWSHAVEN
on the right bank of the Esk, U mile S of Mussel-
bui-<;li.
Cowshaven. See ABEnroiTv.
Cowthally, a ruined castle in Carnwath parish, Lanark-
shire, on the edge of a moss H mile NW of Carnwath
viUage. From the reign of Da'vid I. (1124-53) to 1603
it was the seat of the powerful family of Somervillc,
which, ennobled in 1430 under the title of Baron Somer-
ville, became extinct in 1870 on the death of the nine-
teenth Lord. P.urned by the English in 1320, but
aftenvards rebuilt, it was surrounded by moat and ram-
part, and accessible only by a drawbridge. James Y.
and VL were both entertained here with great magni-
ficence, the latter punningly remarking that the castle
rather should be called Goiv-daily, because a cow and
ten sheep were killed there every da}'. See Drum and
the eleventh Lord Somerville's curious Memorie of the
Somervilles (2 vols., 1815).
Coxton, an old castellated mansion in St Andrews-
Lhanbride parish, Elginshire, 2 miles ESE of Elgin. A
tall square structure, ^^'ith turrets at the angles, it bears
date 1644, but is fully a century older; and it was the
residence of the Inneses of Invermarkie, but belongs
now to the Earl of Fife. See vol. 1. of Billings' Baronial
Antiquities (1845).
Coyle or Coila (popularly Kill), a stream of Kyle dis-
trict, AjTshire. It rises in the S of Ochiltree parish
close to the boundary with Coylton, and winds 14i
miles north-westward to the river Ayv, at a point 3j
miles E of the town of Ayr. It makes a cascade, 25
feet ^vide and 15 feet in fall, under the ridge on which
stands Sundrum House ; its yellow trout are good, Init
not over plentiful ; and at llillmunnoch, on its bank.
Burns makes the ' Poor and Honest Sodger ' return to
his ain dear maid.
Coylton, a village and a parish in Kyle district, Ayr-
shire. The village stands 2 miles W by N of Drongan
station and 6 ESE of Ajt, under which it has a post
office, and consists of two parts, Coylton proper and
New Coylton. It is traditionally said to have got its
name from the 'Auld King Coil' of Coilsfield, but
figures in old records as Quiltoun and Cuiltoun.
The parish, containing also the villages of Craighall,
Woodside, Rankinston, and Joppa, is bounded N by
Tarbolton, E by Stair and Ochiltree, S by Dalmellington,
SW by Dalr}Tnple, W by Ayr, and NW by St Quivox.
Its greatest length, from NNW to SSE, is 8^ miles ; its
breadth varies between 7 furlongs and 3§ miles ; and its
area is 11,752| acres, of which 160| are water. From a
little below Stair church to just above Mainholm, the
river Ayk winds 7f miles west-south-westward along all
the northern and north-western border ; to it flows the
Water of CoYiiE, latterly through the NE interior, but
chiefly along the boundary with Ochiltree and Stair.
Lochs Mautnaham (1 J x J mile) and Snipe (li x § furl. )
lie on the Dalrymple border ; and on the Ayr border is
Loch I'ergus (3x1 furl.). Where the Ayr quits the
parish the surface sinks to less than 50 feet above sea-
level, thence rising to 139 feet near Craighall, 356 at
Raithhill, 253 near Joppa, 799 at Craigs of Co3de, 1241
at Ewe Hill, 1122 at Brown Rig, and 1426 at Benwhat,
which last, however, culminates just beyond the southern
border. Coal, ironstone, trap rock, sandstone, lime-
stone, and potter's clay are worked, the recent great
increase in the population being due to mining develop-
ment ; plumbago was mined, from 1808 till 1815, on
the farm of Laigh Dalmore ; fire-clay abounds in the
neigld)Ourhood of a limestone (|uarry ; and Water-of-
Ayr stone, used for hones, was raised for some years on
Knocksho"gle farm. The soil of the holms or flat
grounds along the streams is light and loamy, on a
sandy or gravelly bottom ; elsewhere it is inostly a poor
cohesive clay on a stilf, cold, tilly subsoil, with patches
of moss or peat. About 70 per cent, of the entire land
area is in tillage, 23 in pasture, and 7 under wood.
Antiquities are a large stone, Ijy tradition associated
with tlie name of ' Auld King Coil ;' the castellated por-
tion of Sundrum House ; fragments of the old parish
church ; and the sites of two pre-Reformation chapels.
292
CRAIG
A field on Bargleuch has yielded four stone coflins ; and
silver coins of Elizabeth, James VI., and Charles I.
have been dug up on Bargunnoch farm. JMansions are
Sundrum, Gadgirth, Rankinston, Martnaham Muir, and
Oakbank ; and the property is divided among 14 land-
owners, 6 holding each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 3 of between £100 and £500, 1 of from £50 to
£100, and 4 of from £20 to £50. Coylton is in the
presbytery of Ayr and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the
living is worth £331. The church, built in 1836, is a
good Gothic edifice, with a tower upwards of 60 feet
high, and contains 744 sittings. Two public schools,
Coylton and Littlemill, with respective accommodation
for 293 and 220 children, had (1880) an average attend-
ance of 191 and 134, and grants of £162, 12s. 6d. and
£96, 19s. Valuation (1860) £10,481, (1882) £20,454,
8s. 9d., including £911 for railway. Pop. (ISOl) 848,
(1831) 1380, (1861) 1604, (1871) 1440, (1881) 3100.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 14, 1863.
Crag or Craiglich, an eminence (1563 feet) on the
mutual border of CouU and Lumphanan parishes, Aber-
deenshire, 7^ miles SSW of Alford.
Craggie or Creagach, a loch on the mutual border of
Lairg and Rogart parishes, SE Sutherland, 3^ miles
ENE of Lairg village. Lying 525 feet above sea-level,
it measures 1 mile by 2J furlongs, and, with a stiflish
breeze, affords as good trouting as any in Sutherland. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 102, 1881.
Craggie or Creagach, a loch in Tongue parish, Suther-
land, receiving the superfluence of Loch Loyal, and
sending ott' its own to Loch Slaim, through two short
reaches of the river BoRGiE, each 1 furlong long. L)'-
ing 369 feet above sea-level, it is 1§ mile long from S to
NNE ; varies in breadth between IJ and 3h furlongs ;
and contains magnificent trout and salmo-ferox, mth
occasional salmon and grilse. One of its trout scaled
8\hs.— Ord. Sur., sh. 114, 1880.
Craibstone. See Aberdeen, p. 17.
Craichie. See Dunnichen.
Craig, an estate, with a mansion, in Colmonell parish,
S Ayrshire, on the Stinchar, 2 miles ENE of Colmonell
village.
Craig, an estate, with a mansion, in Kilmaurs parish,
Ayrshire, between Carmel Water and the river Ir\ane,
4 miles W by S of Kilmarnock. Its owner, Allan Pol-
lok-Morris, Esq. (b. 1836; sue. 1862), holds 165 acres
in the shire, valued at £846 per annum.
Craig. See Neilston.
Craig, a hamlet and a coast parish of Forfarshire.
The hamlet, Kirkton of Craig, stands on the brow of a
gentle acclivit}', 1^ mile SSW of Montrose, and com-
mands a splemlid view over Montrose Basin and town
away to the Grampians.
The parish, containing also the fishing villages of
Ferryden and Usan or Ulysses' Haven, comprises the
ancient parishes of Inchbrayock or Craig and St Skeoch
or Dunninald, united in 1618. It is bounded N by
Montrose Basin and the mouth of the South Esk, SE
by the German Ocean, S bj^ the Dysart section of
j\Iaryton and by Lunan, SW by Kinnell, W by Far-
nell, and NW by Maryton proper. Its utmost length
is 5| miles from ENE to WSW, viz., from the Ness
to tiny Nicholls Loch upon Ross Muir ; its width
varies between 1^ and 2J miles ; and its area is 4865j
acres, of which 345J- are foreshore, and 137i water.
The northern border slopes gently do-\vii to Montro.se
Basin ; and Rossie island there, lying at the head of
the South Esk's eOlucnce to the sea, and separated
from the mainland only by a narrow channel, belongs
to Craig, but will be separately noticed. The E coast
is rocky, and toward the S precipitous, at Boddin
Point rising rapidly to 200 feet above sea-level. On
the Ness, or most easterly point of the coast, where the
South Esk falls into the sea, is a lightliouse, whose light,
fixed white till 1881, is now double intermittent or
occulting, visible at a distance of 17 nautical miles. The
interior, with gradual southward and south-westward
ascent, forms, for the Tuost part, an undulating table-
land ; and, attaining 234 feet near Balkeillie, 426 near
CRAIG
Balstout, and 503 near the Keformatory, commands
from many points extensive views. The rocks are
chiefly erujjtive and Devonian, and include greenstone,
amj-gdaloid, sandstone, and limestone. A eoai-se sand-
stone is worked in several quarries for building ; lime-
stone was long extensively worked ; and many varieties
of beautiful pebbles are found in the amygdaloid. The
soil in the E is sandy, westward inclines to moorish,
and in the central and much the largest section is a
strong rich loam. Fully five-sevenths of the entire
area are in cultivation, a little less than a fourth being
either in pasture or commonage, whilst some 300 acres
are under wood. An old castle stood on the coast, in
the immediate vicinity of Boddin, and has left slight
vestiges called Black Jack ; and a square earthen bat-
tery, traditionally said to have been thrown np by
Oliver Cromwell, stood on a small headland at the
mouth of the South Esk. The most interesting
antiquity, however, is the strong castle of the barony
of Craig, — a barony nearly identical with the present
estate of Rossie. Frequently mentioned by Scottish
chroniclers, it stood on the N side of the parish, and is
now represented by a tower and gatewaj", and by part
of a dwelling-house added in 1639. Mansions are Rossie
Castle, Dunninald House, and Usan House ; and the
property is divided among 4 landowners, 1 holding an
annual value of over £5000, 2 of over £2000, and 1 of
over £400. Craig is in the presbytery of Brechin and
synod of Angus and Meams ; the living is worth £360.
The parish church, erected in 1799, is a good building
with a square tower SO feet high, and figures finely in the
landscape ; a Free church is at Ferryden. Four public
schools — Craig, Ferryden Senior, Ferryden Infant, and
"VVesterton — with respective accommodation for 143, 160,
165, and 42 children, had (18S0) an average attendance
of 99, 144, 165, and 25, and grants of £8S, Os. 6d.,
£91, Is., £132, 10s., and £32, 3s. Rossie Reformatory,
towards the soirth-westem comer of the parish, oh miles
SW of Montrose, was established in 1857, and had on
an average 72 inmates in 1880, when its total receipts
were £1193, inclusive of a Treasury allowance of
£1093. Valuation (1882) £12,486, 8s. 2d., including
£1225 for railway. Pop. (1801) 1328, (1831) 1552,
(1861) 2177, (1871) 2402, (1881) 2589.— Ord. Sur., sh.
57, 1868.
Craig or Craig-of-Madderty. See St David's.
Craigallion, a loch in Strathblane parish, SW Stir-
lingshire, 2 miles AVSW of Strathblane station. Lying
380 feet above sea-level, it measures 3| furlongs by 1^,
and has finely-wooded shores.
Craigandarrocb. See Ballater.
Craiganeoin, a deep natm-al amphitheatre in Moy and
Dalarossie jtarish, Inverness-shire, 1 mile SE of Moy
church. Surrounded by high rocks, and accessible only
through one narrow passage, it was used in old tiu.es
by the Highland caterans for concealing their wives
and children during their raids into the low countr}- ;
and was the scene of a skii-mish in the '45, known as
the Rout of Moy.
Craiganfhiach or Raven's Rock, a precipitous crag in
the W of Fodi-lertj" parish, Ross-shire. It gives off a
ver}' distinct echo, and is near a strong chalj^beate spring,
the Saints' Well.
Craiganoin. See Craigaxeoix.
Craiganroy, a commodious and safe harbour in Glen-
shiel parish, Ross-shire, at the S corner of Loch
Duich.
Craigarestie, a chief summit of the Kilpatrick Hills,
in Old Kilpatrick parish, Dumbartonshire. It cul-
minates 1^ mile NKE of Bowling, on the SW side of
Loch Humphrey, at 1166 feet above sea-level.
Craigbamet, an estate, \vith a mansion, in the W of
Campsie parish, S Stirlingshire, If mile W by N of
Campsie Glen station. Its o\vner, Major Chs. Graham-
Stirling (b. 1827 ; sue. 1852), holds 3343 acres in the
shire, valued at £1716 per annum.
Craigbeg, a hill, 1054 feet high, in Dm-ris parish, Kin-
cardineshire, 5^- miles ESE of Banchory.
Craigbhockie and Craigboddich, two lofty cliffs in
CRAIGDOW
Loth parish, Sutherland, confronting each other on
opposite sides of a small burn running to Loch Glen.
Craigcaffie Castle, the old square tower of the NeU-
sous in Inch parish, Wigtownshire, 3^ miles NE of
Stranraer. It was surroimded by a fosse, but never
could have been a place of much strength ; now it is
occupied b)- farm labourers.
Craig Castle. See Auchixdoir axd Keakx, and
Castle Craig.
Craigchailliach,a summit(2990feet)in the Finlarig sec-
tion of Weem parish, Perthshire,3;i miles K by W of Killin.
Craig Cluny, a precipitous granite height in Crathie
parish, Aberdeenshire, IJ mile E of Castleton of Brae-
mar. It overhangs the public road, and is clothed far
up with rowan, weeping birch, and lofty pines. See
Charters Chest.
Craigcrook Castle, a picturesque old mansion in
Cramond parish, Edinburghshire, nestling at the foot
of the north-eastern slope of Corstorphine Hill, 1
mile W of Craigleith station, and 3^ miles W of Edin-
burgh. Built probably in the 16th century by one of
the Adamsons, it was sold in 1659 to John Mein, in
1670 to John HaU, in 1682 to Walter Pi-ingle, and in
1698 to John Strachan, who, dying about 1719, be-
queathed for charitable uses all his propertj* — 334 acres,
valued now at £1259 per annum. From early in this
century till 1814 it was the residence of the publisher,
Archibald Constable (1775-1827), whose son and bio-
gi'apher, Thomas (1812-81), was bom here, and who in
1815 was succeeded by the celebrated critic and lawyer,
Francis Jeffrey (1773-1850). The latter describes it as
' an old narrow high house, 18 feet wide and 50 long, with
irregular projections of all sorts, three little staircases,
turrets, a large roimd tower at one end, and an old
garden (or rather two, one within the other), stuck close
on one side of the house, and surrounded with massive
and aged walls, 15 feet high.' He straightway set
about the task of reformation ; and during the thirty-
five summers that he passed at Craigcrook, by extending
and remodelling the gardens (a prototype of those of
' Tully-Yeolau ' in Scott's Waverley), and by additions
to the house in 1835 and earlier, he made it at last a
lovely and most delightful spot. See Cockburn's Life
of Lord Jeffrey (2 vols., Edinb. 1852).
Craigdaimve, a sea inlet on the W side of North
Knapdale parish, Argyllshii'e, branching from the Sound
of Jiu'a near Keils Point.
Craigdam, a hamlet in Tarves parish, Aberdeenshire,
1\ mile SW of Tarves village. At it are a U. P. church
(1806 ; 600 sittings) and a girls' public school.
Craigdarroch, an estate, Avith a mansion, in Glencaim
parish, Dumfriesshire, 2\ miles W of Moniaive. Its
owner, Robert Cutlar Fergusson, Esq. (b. 1855 ; sue.
1859), holds 2264 acres in the shire, valued at £1755
per annum. Craigdarroch Burn, rising upon the eastern
slope of Cornharrow Hill at 1500 feet above sea-level,
close to the boundary with Kirkcudbrightshire, runs 6
miles east-by-southward to the vicinity of Moniaive,
where it unites with Dalwhat and Castlefern burns to
form the river Cairx. — Ord. Sur., sh. 9, 1863.
Craigdarroch, an estate, with a modern mansion, in
Contin parish, SE Ross-shue, 4 miles WSW of Strath-
peffer. The mansion stands amid romantic scenery,
near the north-eastern shore of Lcvch Achilty.
Craig-David. See Bervie Brow.
Craigderg, a ridge of granitic rocks in Inverness parish,
Inverness-shire, adjacent to the side of Loch Dochfour.
An ancient watchtower stood upon it, and is sujjposed
to have been an outpost of Castle-Spiritual.
Craigdhuloch, a stupendous cliff in the SW comer
of Glenmuiek parish, Aberdeenshire, adjacent to the
boundary with Forfarshire. It overhangs the S side of
the small, dark, sequestered Loch Dhuloch ; soars to
the height of more than 1000 feet; and is thought by
some observers to be grander than the famous rocks of
Lochnagar.
Craigdow, a loch (If x \h furl.) on the mutual border
of Kirkoswald and Maybole parishes, W Ayrshire, 3i
miles SW of Maybole town.
2P3
CRAIGELLaCHIE
CRAIGFORTH
Craigellachie (Gael, crcag-eagalach, ' rock of alarm '),
a bold aiul wooded height(1500 feet) on the mutual border
of Duthil and Alvie parishes, E Inverness-shire, near
the left bank of the Sjiey, above Aviemore station. It
gave the clan Grant their slogan or war-cry, ' Stand fast,
Craigellachie. '
Craigellachie, a village in the N of Aberlour parish,
W Hantl'sliire, lincly seated, 300 feet above sea-level, on
the left bank of the Spey, which here receives the Fid-
dich, and here is crossed by a handsome iron bridge,
with round embattled towers at the angles and a single
arch of 100 feet span, erected in 1815 at a cost of £8000,
as also by the viaduct (1857) of the Great North of
Scotland railway. The junction of the Jlorayshire,
Keith, and Strathspey sections of that system, it is 12^
miles SSE of Elgin, 14| WSW of Keith, 68 XW by W
of Aberdeen, 33^ NE of Boat of Garten, and 121f N by
E of Perth ; and has a post office, with money order,
savings' bank, and telegraph departments, two insurance
agencies, gas-works, an hotel, an Established church,
with 116 sittings, and a girls' school, vnth. accommoda-
tion for 81 children. "Water has been introduced, and
building actively carried on since the summer of 1880,
when a new street was sanctioned round the top of the
lofty quartz crag above the station, on feus given off by
Lord Fife at £8 per acre. — Ord. Sicr., sh. 85, 1876.
Craigencat, a hill on the N border of Dunfermline
parish, Fife, | mile E by S of Loch Glow, and If SSE
of Cleish village. Rising to an altitude of 921 feet
above sea-level, it mainly consists of basaltic rock,
which is quarried for dykes and road-metal, and it
exhibits very regular basaltic columns with many
horizontal divisions.
Craigend, a farm on the N border of Newabbey
parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, 3J miles NW of Newabbey
\'illage. A rocking-stone on it, 15 tons in weight, may
be put in motion by a child.
Craigend, an estate, with a mansion, in Strathblane
parish, Stirlingshire, 3^ miles N by W of Milngavie.
The mansion, Craigend Castle, was built in 1812, and
is a splendid edifice, standing amid fine grounds ; its
owner is the ex-diplomatist, the Right Hon. Sir Andrew
Buchanan, G.C.B., of Dunburgh, Bart. (cr. 1878), who,
born in 1807, succeeded his father in 1860, and holds
883 acres in the shire, valued at £948 per annum.
Craigend, a hamlet and a moor in Campsie parish,
Stirlingshire. The hamlet lies on Powburn, adjacent to
the Blane VaUey railwa}', 2 miles E by S of Strathblane
station. The moor extends from the southern -sdcinity
of the hamlet to the boundary with Baldernock, and
attains an altitude of 634 feet above sea-level.
Craigend, a village in Perth East Church parish, Perth-
shire, 2 miles S of Perth. At it are a public school and
a U.P. church (1780 ; 413 sittings).
Craigend, a mansion in Liberton parish, Edinburgh-
shire, near Craigmillar Castle, 2J miles SSE of Edin-
burgh. Built in 1869, it is a large edifice in the Gothic
style, and has, at the SE corner, a circular tower 60 feet
high.
Craigendarroch. See Ballatek.
Craigends, an estate, with an old mansion, in Kil-
barchan parish, Renfrewshire, on the right bank of the
Gryfe, 3 miles NNW of Johnstone. Its owner, .John
Charles Cunninghame, Esq. (b. 1851 ; sue. 1866), holds
3136 acres in tlie shire, valued at £9985 per annum, in-
cluding £2508 for minerals.
Craigengelt, an estate in the SW of St Ninians
pni-ish, Stirlingshire, W of Loch Coulter, and 5J miles
WNW of Denny. It includes a considerable mass of
the Lennox Hills, and contains a circular cairn or
mound called the Ghost's Knowe, which, 300 feet in cir-
cumference, is engirt by twelve very large stones. This
is one only out of several artificial inounils, clothed with
fine grass, and called the Sunny Hills ; and Craigengelt
is believed to have been, in olden times, the scene of
many tragical events.
Craigengower, a liill in Straiton parish, Ayrshire,
9 furlongs SE of Straiton village. Rising to a height of
1160 feet aViove sea-level, it is crowned with a handsome
294
monument to Colonel Blair, who fell in the Crimea ; and
it commands an extensive view.
Craigenputtoch, a lonely farm at the head of Dun-
score parish, in Nithsdale, Dumfriesshire, lying, 700
feet above sea-level, at the SW base of Craigenputtoch
Moor (1038 feet), 10 miles WSW of Auldgirth station,
and 15 WNW of Dumfries. From May 1828 to May
1834 it was the home of Thomas Carlyle (1795-1881)
and his wife, Jane Welsh (1801-66), she having inherited
it from her father, whose ancestors owned it for many
long generations, going back, it may be, to great John
Welsh of Ayr (1570-1623). Here he wrote Sartor Ee-
sartus, here received two visits from Lord Jeffrey, and
hence sent Goethe a description of his residence as 'not
in Dumfries itself, but 15 miles to the NW, among the
granite hills and the black morasses which stretch west-
ward through Galloway, almost to the Irish Sea. In
this wilderness of heath and rock our estate stands forth
a green oasis, a tract of ploughed, partly enclosed, and
planted ground, where corn ripens,, and trees afford a
shade, although surrounded by sea-mews and rough -
woolled sheep. Here, with no small effort, have we
built and furnished a neat substantial dwelling ; here,
in the absence of professional or other office, we live to
cultivate literature according to our strength, and in
our own peculiar way.' In 1807, the 3-ear succeeding
the death of Mrs Carlyle, he bequeathed the estate — 773
acres, valued at £250 per annum — to Edinburgh Uni-
versity, to found ten equal competitive 'John Welsh
bursaries,' five of them classical, five mathematical. —
Orel. Sicr., sh. 9, 1863. See Carlyle's Reminiscences
(1881), and his Life by J. A. Froude (1882).
Craigenscore, a mountain in the N of Glenbucket
parish, W Aberdeenshire, 21 miles N of the church. It
has an altitude of 2000 feet above sea-level.
Craigentinny (Gael, creag-an-teine, ' rock of tire '), an
estate, with a mansion, in South Leith parish, Mid-
lothian, lying between Edinburgh and the Firth of
Forth, 2;^ miles EXE of the city. The property of
Samuel Christie-ililler, Esq. (b. 'l811 ; sue. 1862), it
extends over only 652 acres, yet is valued at £5739 per
annum. This high rental is due to the fact that here
are the most extensive meadows in Scotland, all of
which have been under regular sewage irrigation for
upwards of 35 years. The produce is annually sold to
cow-keepers at £16 to £28 (in one year £44) an acre, and
the gi'ass per acre is estimated at from 50 to 70 tons.
It is cut five times a year ; and two men suffice to keep
the ditches in order {Traits. Eight, and Ag. Soc, 1877,
p. 24).
Craigenveoch, a mansion in Old Luce parish, Wigtown-
shire, on the N side of Whitefield Loch, 3;^ miles ESE
of Glenluce. Built in 1876, it is a splendid Scottish
baronial pile, the seat of Admiral Right Hon. Sir Jn.
Chs. Dalrymjile Hay, third Bart, since 1798 (b. 1821 ;
sue. 1861), who, having previously represented Wake-
field and Stamford, was in 1880 elected member for the
Wigtown burghs, and who owns 7400 acres in the shire,
valued at £6601 per annum.
Craigflower, an estate, with a mansion, in Torryburn
parish, SW Fife, 3:^ miles E of Culross. It was the i)ro-
perty of the Right Hon. Sir Jas. Wm. Colvile of Ochil-
tree (1810-80), Indian jurist and privy councillor, who
owned 1002 acres in the shire, valued at £2279 per
annum.
Craigfoodie, a hill and a mansion in the N of Dairsi'
parish, Fife. The hill, culminating 3^ miles NE ot
Cupar, at 554 feet above sea-level, presents to the SW
a mural front, partly consisting of columnal basalt.
The mansion stands on the SE slope of the hill, If mile
NW of Dairsie station.
Craigford, a village in St Ninians parish, Stirling-
shire, distant 1 mile from Bannockburn.
Craigforth, an estate, with a mansion, in Stirling
parish, Stirlingshire. Tlie mansion stands on the right
bank of the river Forth, 2 miles WNW of the town ;
and, together with the estate, takes name from a bohl
and wooded crag. It is a seat of Geo. Fred. Wil.
Callander, Esq. of Akukinglass (b. 1848 ; sue. 1851),
CRAIG-GIBBON
CRAIGIELANDS
who holds 601 acres in Stirlingshire, and 51.670 in
Ai'gyllsliire, valued respectively at £1886 and £5626 per
auuum. Here lived and died the antiquary, John Cal-
lander (1710-S9).
Craig-Gibbon, a summit in a detached section of
Metliven parish, Perthshire, 3h miles SSW of Dunkeld.
One of the Lower Grampians, it rises to a height of 1263
feet above sea-level, and is surmounted by an obelisk.
Craig-Gowan, a wooded height (1437 feet) in Crathie
and Braemar jiarish, SAV Aberdeenshire, 9 furlongs S by
E of Balmoral. On it are Prince Albert's Cairn (1863),
and others, the first of which was reared on 11 Oct. 1852,
by the Queen, the Prince Consort, and all the royal
children, according to age. See Balmoral and p. 101
of the Queen's Journal (ed. 1877).
Craighall, a village in the NW of Coylton parish,
Ayrshire, on the left bank of the river Ayr, and 4 miles
E b)- N of AjT town.
Craighall, an estate, with a ruined, castellated man-
sion, in Ceres parish, Fife. The ruined mansion stands
on the N side of a deep wooded den, traversed by a
bm-n, 3 J miles SE of Cupar ; and, buUt by Sir Thomas
Hope, King's Advocate to Charles I., still presents a
grand appearance. See Pinkie.
Craighall, an estate, with a mansion, in Rattray
parish, Perthshire, 3 miles N of Blairgowrie. * A modern-
ised ancient edifice, on a pentnsulated rock, rising 214
feet sheer from the Ericht, and formerly defended on
the land side by a fosse and two towers,' the mansion
■was visited by Scott in the summer of 1793, and was one
of the prototypes of ' Tidly-Veolan' in Wavcrley. The
Rattrays of Craighall-Rattray are said to date back to
the reign of Malcolm Ceannmor (1057-93) ; and the
present proprietor, Lieut. -Gen. Clerk Rattray, C.B.
(b, 1832 ; sue. 1851), holds 3256 acres in the shire,
valued at £2928 per annum.
Craighall, New, a collier village on the mutual border
of Liberton and Inveresk parishes, Edinburghshire, near
New Hailes station on the North British, and 2 miles
WSW of Musselburgh. At it are an Established chapel
of ease (1878), built, like the houses, of brick, and the
Benhar Coal Co. 's school, which, with accommodation
for 403 children, had (1880) an average attendance of
240, and a gi-aut of £166, 6s. Pop. (1861) 336, (1881)
978.
Craighall, Old, a collier village, with a school, in
Inveresk parish, Edinburghshu'e, If mile SSW of
Musselburgh.
Craighead. See Cajipsie.
Craighead, a village in Redgorton parish, Perthshire,
on the left bank of the Almond, 1 mile N by W of
Alraondbank station.
Craighead, an estate, with a mansion, in Blantyre
parish, Lanarkshire, on the left bank of the Clyde, 1
mile S of Bothwell village.
Craighead, a place where Caaf Water forms a fine
cascade in a narrow wooded dell, on the mutual boun-
dary of Dairy and Kilwinning parishes, Ayrshire.
Craiffheads, a village connected with Barrhead town,
in Renfrewshire.
Craighirst, one of the Kilpatrick Hills in Old Kil-
pati-ick parish, Dumbartonshire, 2\ miles N of Dun-
tocher. It has an altitude of 1074 feet above sea-
level.
Craighlaw, an estate, with a handsome modern man-
sion, engirt by w-ell-wooded policies, in Kirkcowan
parish, Wigtownshire, IJ mile W by N of Kirkcowan
village. Its owner, Malcolm Fleming Hamilton, Esq.
(b. 1869 ; sue. 1876), holds 6300 acres in the shire,
valued at £2577 per annum.
Craighom. See Alva, Stirlingshire.
Craig House, a fine old, many-gabled Scottish man-
sion ill St Cutlibcrts parish, Midlothian, on the north-
eastern slope of wooded Craiglockhart Hill, 2j miles
SW of Edinburgh. Haunted ('tis said) by the ghost of
one Jacky Gordon, it belonged to Sir William Dick,
Knight, of Braid, who, from being Lord Provost of Edin-
burgh, and possessor of £226,000, equal to £2,000,000
of our present money, died in the King's Bench a pauper
in 1655. Lons: after, it was the residence of the his-
torian, John Hill Burton (1809-81).
Craigie, a village and a parish in Kyle district, Ajrr-
shire. The village stands 4 miles S of Kilmarnock,
under which it has a post ofiice.
The parish, incluiling part of the ancient parish of
Barnweill, was itself united to Riccarton till 1647.
It is bounded N by Riccarton, NE by Galston, E bv
INlauchline, SE by Tarbolton, SW by Monkton, anil
NW by Symington. Rudely resembling a triangle,
with south-westward apex, it has an utmost length from
NE to SW of 5| miles, an utmost breadth of 4i
miles, and an area of 6579J acres, of which 3 are
water. Cessxock Water winds 1 mile along the Galston
border ; but the drainage is mostly carried southward or
south-westward by the Water of Fail and the Pow
Burn. The surface is undulating, attaining 507 feet
above sea-level near Harelaw in the NW, and 458 near
Pisgah in the S, heights that command a brilliant
panoramic view, away to Ben Lomond, Jura, and the
Irish coast. Coal, both bituminous and anthracitic,
has here been mined in several places and at different
times, though never with much success ; whilst the work-
ing of limestone of the finest quality has lately been aban-
doned, chiefly on account of the distance from railway.
Great attention is paid to dairy -farming, more than half of
the entire area being in pasture, whilst about 170 acres are
under wood. William Roxburgh (1759-1815), physician
and botanist, was born at Underwood in this parish.
Its chief antiquities are artificial mounds, which either
were seats of justice or military encampments, and the
ruins of Craigie Castle, \^ mile WSW of the church. A
very ancient structure, this was the seat, first of the
Lindsays, and then of the Wallaces of Craigie. (See
LocHRTAN House, Wigtownshire.) Mansions are
Cairnhill, Barnweill, and Underwood. Craigie is in the
presbytery of Ayr and synod of Glasgow and Ayi' ; the
living is worth £300. The church, erected in 1776,
stands at the village, as also does a public school, which,
with accommodation for 126 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 40, and a grant of £30, 14s.
Valuation (1882) £10,724, 5s. 2d. Pop. (1801) 786,
(1831) 824, (1861) 730, (1871) 618, (1881) 590.— Ort^.
Hxir., sh. 22, 1865.
Craigie, an estate, with a mansion, in St Quivox
parish, Ayrshire, on the right bank of the river Ayr, and
1^ mile E by S of Ajt town. Wallacetown lies on the
estate, whose owner, Rich. Fred. Fothringham Camp-
bell, Esq. (b. 1831 ; sue. 1860), holds 2099 acres in the
shire, valued at £3770 per annum.
Craigie, an estate, with a mansion, in Dundee parish,
Forfarshire, near the Fii-th of Tay, 2 miles E by N of
Dundee town. Its owner, David Chs. Guthrie, Esq. (b.
1861 ; sue. 1873), holds 309 acres in the shire, valued
at £979 per annum.
Craigie. See Perth and Belhelvie.
Craigie, a village in Caputh parish, Perthshire, 4J
miles WSW of BlairgowTie, under w-hich it has a post
office.
Craigie or Creagach, Loch. See Borgie.
Craigiebams. See Duxkeld.
Craigiebuckler. See Banchory-Devenick,
Craigiebum, an estate, with a mansion, in JIoflFat
parish, Dumfriesshire, on the right bank of Jloffat
Water, 2g mdes E of Mott'at town. Craigicljurn Wood
was a favourite haunt of the poet Burns about 1789, the
birthplace of Jean Lorimer, his 'Chloris.'
Craigiehall, an estate, with a mansion, in the SE of
Dalmeny parish, Linlithgowshire, on the left bank of
the Almond, 7 furlongs W of Cramond Bridge, and 3J
miles W by S of Davidson's Mains. Its owner, James
Charles Hope Vere (b. 1858 ; sue. 1872), holds 2217 acres
in Mid and West Lothian, valued at £5433 per annum.
(See also Blackwood, Lanarkshire. ) The park around
the mansion is finely wooded ; and the Almond, where
skirting it, forms a picturesque cascade beneath a rustic
bridge. See Dalmexy.
Craigielands, a neat modern village in Kirkpatrick-
Juxta parish, Dumfriesshire, near Beattock station, and
295
CRAIGIEVAR
2i miles SSW of Jlottat, under which it has a post
otfice. Craigiclands House, a modem mansion, is in its
southern vicinity.
Craigievar (Gael, creagach-bharr, ' the rocky point '),
a hamlet and an estate, with a mansion, in Luniphanan
and Leochel-Cushnie parishes, central Aberdeenshire,
35 and 4g miles NNW of Lumphauan station, this
heing 27 miles W by S of Aberdeen, under which there
is a post ofiice of Craigievar. The liamlet has a public
school ; and fairs for cattle, sheep, and horses are held
at it on the Friday before the third Wednesday of April,
the Friday before 26 Jlay (or 26th, if Friday), the
Thursday after the last Tuesday of June 0. s., the day
of July after St Sairs, the Thursday after the second
Tuesday of August 0. s., and the Friday after the first
Tuesday of September 0. s. The estate belonged to the
Jiortimcrs from 1457 and earlier down to 1610, when it
was purchased by "William Forbes of Menie (1566-1627),
a cadet of the Forbeses of Corse, who, ' by his diligent
merchandising in Denmark and other parts, had become
extraordinary rich.' His son and namesake (1593-
1648), a zealous jCovenanter, and the breaker up of the
freebooter Gilderoy's band, was created a baronet in
1630 ; his sixth descendant, the present and eighth
baronet, Sir William Forbes (b. 1836 ; sue. 1846), holds
9347 acres in the shire, valued at £8539 per annum.
The Mortimers are said to have commenced the castle,
but to have been stayed by lack of funds ; by William
Forbes it was finished in 1626. Built of granite, a tall,
narro-n- clustered tower, seven stories high, it is in the
best style of Flemish castellated architecture, one of the
most perfect specimens extant, and as such is figured in
five of Billings' i)lates — three showing the exterior ^vith
its corner tuiTcts, corbelling, and crow-stepped gables ;
one, the banqueting hall, with mighty fireplace, oaken
furnishings, and ' curiously plaistered ' ceiling and
chimney-iiiece ; and the fifth, a bedroom, not so unlike
Queen Mary's at Holyrood. — Orel. Sur., sh. 76, 1874.
See vol. i. of Billings' Baronial Antiquities (1845).
Craiglea, a hill (1737 feet), with a slate quarry, in
Fowlis- Wester parish, Pertlisliire, on the Logiealmond
estate, 6| miles NW of Methven Junction. The slate
vein is of excellent quality; yields two kinds of slates,
the one dark blue, the other of a sea-green hue ; and has
long been worked to the extent of above 1,200,000 slates
a year.
Craigleith, an islet of North Berwick parish, Had-
dingtonshire, 1 mile N of North Berwick town. Measur-
ing 14 by 1 furlong, it rises to a height of 80 feet ;
consists of greenstone, bare and barren ; and is inhabited
only by rabbits, jackdaws, and sea-fowl. In 1814 Sir
Hew Dalrymple bought it from the Town Council for
£400.
Craigleith, an extensive sandstone quarry near the
W border of St Cuthberts parish, Edinburghshire, J
mile E of Blackball village, and 2 miles W bj' N of
Edinburgh ; close to it is Craigleith station on the Leith
branch of the Caledonian. Belonging to the upper
group of the Calciferous Sandstone scries, it i)rcsent3 a
deep excavation 12 acres in area, and longsu]i)>]ied most
of the stone with which the New Town of Edinburgh
was built, its original rental of only £50 rising to
£5500 during the great building ))criod in Edinburgh,
from 1820 till 1S2G. The Craigleith stone is of two
kinds — the one of a fine cream colour, called liver rock ;
the other of a greyish white, called feak rock. Three
trunks of great fossil coniferous trees have been here
discovered.
Craigleoch, a cliff on the western verge of Rattray
parisli, rerthshire, at a very romantic gorge in the
chaiiml of tlie river Ericht, a little al)ovc Craigjiall.
Craiglockhart, an ancient baronial fortalice in Lanark
ptirish, Lanarkshire, on the right bank of Mouse Water,
opposite Jerviswood. It jirobably was erected by some
remote ancestor of the Lockliarts of Lee ; but it figures
very slightly in either records or tradition ; and it now
is a ruined, lofty, pictures(|Ue tower.
Craiglockhart, a wooiled basaltic hill in Colinton
parish, Jlidlothian, I mile ESE of Slateford, and 2.J
296
CRAIGMILLAR CASTLE
miles SW by W of Edinburgh. Attaining a height of
550 feet above sea-level, it commands a wide westward
view, awaj^ to the frontier Grampians ; at its base is a
skating-pond, formed in 1873 by Mr Cox of the Edin-
burgh Gymnasium. It got its name from the neigh-
bouring square tower or keep, built by an ancestor of
the Lockliarts of Lee about the middle of the 13th
century, and now rejiresented by only the basement
arched story ; and in turn it has given name to a man-
sion, a poorhouse, an Established mission church, and
a hydropathic establishment, in its vicinity. The
mansion, built about 1823, stands between the hill and
Slateford, on the verge of a wooded bank, sloping down
to the Water of Leith. The Edinburgh Poorhouse, at
the back or SE of the hill, was built in 1869, and, as
enlarged in 1878, has accommodation for 827 inmates.
The church, an iron one, opened in 1880, is near the old
tower, as this again is near the hydropathic establish-
ment, which occupies a commanding site to the SW of the
hill, and which, designed by Alessrs Peddie & Kinnear,
was erected during 1878-80, being a plain but dignified
edifice, rustic Italian in style, with central tower, slightly
projecting wings, and accommodation for 200 visitors.
Craigluscar, a hill (744 feet) in Dimfennline parish,
Fife, 3 miles NW of Dunfermline town. A limestone
quarry near its summit exhibits a bed of trap interjposed
between two of limestone.
Craiglush, a loch (2 x ^ mile) in Caputh parish, E
Perthshire, traversed by Lunan 13urn, which runs from
it 1 furlong south-south-eastward to the beautiful Loch
of Lows.
Craigmaddie, an estate in Baldernock and Strathblane
parishes, Stirlingshire, 2 miles NE of Milngavie. It
contains a stately modern mansion ; a fragmentary ruin
of the moated tower of the Galbraiths, dating from 1238
or earlier ; a group of cairns, alleged to mark the scene
of a battle between the Danes and the Picts ; that
singular cromlech known as the Auld Wives' Lift ; a
lake of about 10 acres ; a fine expanse of park and wood ;
and an extensive moor, rising to an altitude of 633 feet,
and going into junction with Craigend Aloor.
Craigmark, a mining village in Dalmellington parish,
Ayrshire, 1 j mile NNW of Dalmellington town. Pop.
(1861) 543, (1871) 616, (1881) 383.
Craigmarloch, a small village on the mutual border
of Kilsyth parish, Stirlingshire, and Cumbernauld
parish , Dumbartonshii'e.
Craigmile, an' estate, with a mansion, in Kincardine
O'Neil parish, S Aberdeenshire, 1^ mile E of Torphins
station.
Craigmill, a small village in the Clackmannanshire
section of Logic parish, at the southern base of Abbey
Craig. It formerly was notorious for the smuggling of
whisky.
Craigmill. See Rattuay.
Craigmillar Castle, a grand old ruin in Liberton
parish, Midlothian, 3 miles SE of I'^dinburgh. Crown-
ing the brow of a gentle eminence, it commands from its
topmost roof a magnificent view of Arthur's Seat, the S
side of the city, the firth and the shores of Fife, Aber-
lady Bay, and the Pentlands ; and itself consists of a
lofty square keep or tower, an inner ivy-clad court, and
a quadrangular embattled wall, 30 feet high, with
circular corner towers — the whole engirt by an outer
rampart or else, in places, by a moat. The ' new part,'
to the W, was added so late as 1661 ; the keep must be
older than 1427 (the earliest date preserved) ; but much
of the building, as it stands to-day, was reared most
likely after its burning by Hertford in 1544. ' On the
boundary wall,' says Sir Walter Scott, 'may be seen
the arms of Cockburn of Ormiston, C'ongalton of Con-
galton, ]\loul)ray of Barnbouglc, and Otterl)urn of Red-
ford, allies of the Prestonsof Craigmillar ; whilst in one
corner of the outer court, over a ])ortal arch, are the
arms of the family, three unicorns' heads couped, with
a cheese-i>ress and barrel or tun, a wretched rebus to
express their name ' — this sculptured fragment bearing
date 1510. Within are the noisome diniu'fons, in whose
partition wall a skeleton was found bricked up (lil3);
CRAIGMORE
the kitchen, with mighty oven ; Queen Mary's bower,
■\rith two or three dubious relics ; her bedchamber,
measuring but 7 by 5 feet, yet having two \vindows and
a fireplace ; and the great banqueting hall, 36 feet long,
and 22 feet broad, with walls 10 feet in thickness,
chimney 11 feet wide, a barrel-vaulted roof, and deep
embrasured windows, on the stone seat of one of which
may be faintly traced a diagram of the old game of the
' Walls of Troy. ' The name of this place occurs pretty
early in the national records, in a charter of mortifica-
tion granted in 1212 by William, son of Henry de
Craigmillar, whereby he gives, ' in pure and perpetual
alms,' to the church and monastery of Dunfermline, a
certain toft of land in Craigmillar, in the southern part
leading from the town of Xidreif to the church of
Liberton, which Henry de Edmonton holds of him.
Later, Craigmillar belonged to one John de Capella, and
from him it was purchased in 1374 by Sir Simon
Preston, whose descendants retained it for nearly three
centuries, and, during that pei'iod held the highest
offices in the magistracy of EtUnburgh. In 1478 John,
Earl of ilar, 'ane fair and lustie man,' was here im-
prisoned b}' James III. , his brother, and only removed
to meet his doom by treacherous lancet in the Canon-
gate ; and James V., with Gawin Douglas, his tutor,
was sent here during his minority, when the pest was
raging in Edinburgh. Queen Marj^, after her return
in 1561, made Craigmillar so frequent a residence,
that a neighboui'ing hamlet, where her French retinue
lodged, retains to this day the name of Little France ;
in December 1566 we read of her lying here sick,
and ever repeating these words, * I could ■wish to be
dead. ' Here, too, in the same month, her divorce from
Darnley was mooted by Both well, Murray, Le thing-
ton, Argyll, and Huntly, in the so-called ' Conference
of Craigmillar,' and propounded to Mary herself; and
to Craigmillar it was at fii'st proposed to have Darnley
conveyed, instead of to Kirk of Field. Mary's son,
James VI. , is said to have planned at Craigmillar his
matrimonial excursion to Denmark; and Mary's de-
scendant. Queen Victoria, in 1842 drove by its ruins,
which have been sketched and Avi'itten of by 'fat, fodgel'
Grose, Sir Walter Scott, Thomson of Duddingston, Sir
Thomas Dick Lauder, Hill Burton, and many others. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 32, 1857. See vol. i. of Billings' 5aro«iaZ
Antiquities (ISio), a.n.^ Historical Sketches of Craigmillar
Castle (Edinb. 1875).
Craigmore, a precipitous hill, 1271 feet high, in Aber-
foyle parish, Perthshire, flanking the Laggan's northern
bank, and culminating 1 mile XW of Aberfoyle hamlet.
Craigmore. See Bex-ax-Armuinn.
CTaig-na-Ban, a roimded, granitic, fir-clad hiU (1736
feet) in Crathie and Braemar parish, SW Aberdeenshire,
1| miie SE of Abergeldie. On it, to save his own life,
a wizard is said to have hunted do^^m a -n-itch and handed
her over to justice ; and on it Prince Frederick William
of Prussia gave the piece of white heather (emblem of
good luck) to the Princess Royal on the day of their
betrothal, 29 Sept. 1855.
Craig-na-Faoilinn, a stupendous crag, 934 feet high,
in Durness parish, Sutherland, overhanging the public
road at the head of Loch Eriboll, near the mouth of
Strath Beg.
Craignafeile, a stack or rocky tower-like islet off the
NE coast of the Isle of Skye, Inverness-shire, near a
cascade falling to the sea, in the vicinity of Loch Staffin.
It presents some resemblance to a statue in Highland
costume ; hence the name crcag-na-fheilidh, ' the rock of
the kilt.'
Craignaiolar or Creag na h-Iolaire (Gael, 'eagle's
crag'), a rocky hill (1750 feet) projecting from a moun-
tain range, in Duthil parish, Elginshire, 3:^ miles NNW
of the parish church. It has several fissures, one of
which, near the western extremity, cuts it sharply from
top to bottom. See also Bex-ax-Armuinx.
Craignair. See Buittle.
Craigneil, an ancient fortalice in Colmonell parish,
SW Ayrshire, near the left bank of the Stincliar, 7 fur-
longs S of Colmonell village. Built in the 13th century,
CRAIGNISH
it was a hiding-place of Robert Bruce ; was afterwards
a feudal prison and place of execution ; and is now a
picturesque ruin, crowning a rock}- mount, and com-
manding a view of the Stinchar's valley from Penmore
to Knockdolian.
Craignethan, a ruined castle or, rather, fortified
manor-house, in Lesmahagow parish, Lanarkshire, ^
mile ENE of Tillietudlem station on the Lesmahagow
branch of the Caledonian, and 5i miles WXW of Lanark-
It stands on the left bank of the river Xethan, 1|- mile
above its influx near Crossford village to the Clyde ; and
is said to have been rebuilt by the celebrated architect.
Sir James Hamilton of Fynnart, commonly kno^vn as
the Bastard of Arran. He was beheaded in 1540, but
three years later the family estates were restored to his
son. Sir James Hamilton of Evandale. Popularly iden-
fied with the ' Tillietudlem ' of Old Mortality, Craig-
nethan, to quote James Hunnewell's Lands of Scott
(1871), 'is a mere shell and wreck of its former self;
yet, like most ruined castles, it is not wanting in
pictm-esqueness and romance. It is approached by a
road like that described in the novel — jsteep, winding,
and stony, and leading through a ford of the Nethan.
This is a shallow stream, flowing over a rocky bed, and
bending around a point that rises, with grey crags and
steep, gi'ass or tree clad banks, to a commanding eleva-
tion, on which is the castle, built of sandstone, now
faded and weather-worn. The extent of Craignethan
once was great ; even now there is a large garden -nithin
its walls. The keep, at the outer or river side, is very
ruinous ; and indeed the whole structure is much dila-
pidated, large quantities of materials having been taken
from it for the construction of ignoble buildings. But
there can still be found in it many picturesque combina-
tions of wall and tower, of stone-arched ceiling, or of
broken vaulting, streaming with graceful ivy-sprays, or
of shattered battlements, garlanded with shrubbery.
A story told of many old residences is told of this :
Queen Mary is said to have occupied, dm'ing several
days before the battle of Langside, a large hall, yet
partly existing, and called the Queen's Room. Craig-
nethan has been an important fortress, held by Hamil-
tons, by Haj's, and by Douglases. The scenery around
it has some degree of grandeur as well as beauty ; and
Sir Walter, on his visit in 1799, was so much pleased
with the place, that the proprietor oflered him use for
life of a small house within the walls. I was told that
the novel is commemorated here by quite a large periodi-
cal festivity, held bv the families of farmers and others,
and called the Tillietudlem Ball. '— C/rcZ. Sur., sh. 23,
1865. See also J. B. Greenshield's Annals of the Parish
of Lesmahagoiu (Edinb. 1864).
Craigneuk, a mining Aillage in Dalziel parish, Lanark-
shire, If mile WXW of Wishaw, and If ESE of
Motherwell. Forming since 1874 part of Wishaw police
burgh, it has a Primitive Methodist chapel, a small
Roman Catholic school, and a pubKc school. Pop.
(1S61) 716, (1871) 1377, (1881) 2330.
Craignish, a South Argyll parish on the W coast of
Argyllshire, adjoining the steamboat route from Glas-
gow, via the Crinan Canal, to Oban, and containing the
hartdet of Ardfern, -nnth a post oflice under Lochgilp-
head, 18 miles to the SE. It anciently was called
indiscriminately Kilmorie and Craignish, and it retains
a burial-ground and a ruined chapel, still bearing the
name of Kilmliori. Its south-south-western half is pen-
insidar, and its entire outline approaches that of a
scalene triangle, with south-south-westward vertex. Its
peninsula is bounded E by Loch Craignish and W by
the Atlantic Ocean ; on its other sides the parish bor-
ders on Kilninver, Kilchrenan, and Kilmartin. Its
greatest length, from NXE to SSW, is 11 miles, and
its average breadth is about 2 miles. The extent of
coast is fully 16 miles. Loch Craignish, o]iening from
the lower part of tlie NE side of Loch Crinan, pene-
trates 6 miles to the XNE, and diminishes in width from
3 miles at the mouth to 7 furlongs near the head, where
it forms a commodious harbour, with good anchorage.
Craitruish Point Hanks the W side of the loch's mouth,
^ 297
CRAIGNOOK
and terminates the parish's peninsula ; and both that
point and the small neighbouring island of Garbhreisa
are faced A\-ith cliffs. A sti-ait, called Dorusmore or the
Great Door, between Craignish Point and Garbhreisa, is
swept by a rapid tidal current, but has a deep channel,
and is usually traversed by the steamers from Port Crinan
to Oban. Abreast of the mainland, chiefly in the S and
within Loch Craignish, are upwards of twenty islands
and numerous islets and rocks, serried round with ro-
mantic cliffs. The peninsula commences, in the south-
south-western extremity, in a near point ; extends
to a length of about 6 miles ; widens gradually to 2J
miles ; swells, on the eastern side, into numerous green
eminences of 300 feet and less in elevation ; has, along
Loch Craignish shore, a narrow strip of land ; and is
cut there into numerous little headlands and winding
baylets. A flat tract, less than J mile broad, and very
slightly elevated above the sea ; extends from the
western shore across the head of the peninsula to a
rivulet in the E, running along the boundary with
Kilmartin. The district N of that tract is partly a
section of the valley of Barbreck, extending upward
from the head of Loch Craignish, and mainly a rugged,
heathy, hilly region, attaining an extreme altitude of
700 feet above sea-level, and commanding, from its
higher points, extensive and diversified views. There
are twelve lakes, many rills, and numerous perennial
springs. The prevailing rock is claj^ slate. The soil of
the arable grounds is principally a loamy mould, less
fertile than it looks to be. Much good land, or land
which might be profitably reclaimed, lies waste. Re-
mains of a large, strong, mediaeval fortalice are near the
north-western boundary ; and vestiges of rude forts,
supposed to be Scandinavian, are in eleven places.
Craignish Castle, standing on the peninsula, 2^ miles
from the point, includes a strong old fortalice, which
withstood a six weeks' siege by Colkitto, but is mostly
a good modern mansion, rebuilt about 1832 ; its owner,
Fred. Chs. Trench-Gascoigne (b. 1814), holds 5591 acres
in the shii-e, valued at £1013 per annum. Other man-
sions are Bakbukck and Dail ; and the property is
divided among 6 landowners, 3 holding each an annual
value of £r00 and upwards, 2 of between £100 and
£500, and 1 of from £50 to £100. Craignish is in the
presbytery of Inverary and synod of Argyll ; the living
is worth £215. The church, 8 miles NW of Kilmartin,
was erected in 1826, is a neat edifice, and contains 500
sittings. There is also a Free Churcb preaching station.
Craignish public and Barbreck girls' schools, with re-
spective accommodation for 85 and 41 children, had
(1880) an average attendance of 35 and 33, and gi-ants
of £43, 10s. 6d. and £41, 4s. Valuation (1882) £3889,
12s. Id. Pop. (1801) 904, (1831) 892, (1861) 618, (1871)
481, (1881)451.
Craignook. See Craigneuk.
Craignure, a hamlet in Torosay parish. Mull island,
Argyllshire, on a small bay of its own name, at the SE
end of the Sound of Mull, 2\ miles NW of Achnacraig.
It has an inn, a post-office under Oban, and a steamboat
pier.
Craigo, a village, with a public school, in Logiepert
parish, Forfarshire, on the North Esk's right bank, with
a station on the Aberdeen section of the Caledonian, 3^
miles NNW of Dubton Junction, and 6^ NNW of
Jlontrose. Craigo House, Ih mile S by E of Craigo
station, is the property of Thos. Macpherson-Grant,
Esq., W.S. (b. 1815; sue. his cousin, Thos. Carnegy,
Esq., 1856), who holds 4713 acres in the .shire, valued at
£7082 per annum. Pop. of village (1861) 359, (1871)
376, (1881) 124, a decrease due to the stoppage of a flax
.spinning-mill and a bleachfield. See Logikpkut.
Craigoch, a ])urn in Portpatrick parish, Wigtownshire,
running 4 miles west-south-westward to the North Chan-
nel at Dunskcy Castle, 5 furlongs SSE of Portpatrick
town. It KUii]ilios a small artificial lake, stocked with
trout, in the vicinity of Dunskey House.
Craigowl. See Glammi.s.
Craigphadrick, a wa«ded hill in Inverness parish,
Inverne-sshire, between Beauly Firth and the valley of
208
CRAIGSTON CASTLE
the Ness, If mile W of Inverness tovra. Terminating th 3
north-western hill-flank of the Great Glen of Scotland,
it rises to an altitude of 430 feet above sea-level ; and
its rocky tabular summit is crowned with a double-
walled, rectangular vitrified fort, 240 feet long and 90
wide, which commands an extensive view. The palace
of King Brude, near the river Ness, which Columba
visited in 565, was by Dr Reeves identified vdih Craig-
phadrick ; but Skene observes that ' it seems unlikely
that in the 6th century a royal i)alace should have been
in a vitrified fort, on the top of a roclcy hill nearly 500
feet high, and it is certainly inconsistent with Adamnan's
narrative that the vSaint .should have had to ascend such
an eminence to reach it' {Cellic Scotland, ii. 106, note,
1877).
Craigrie, a village in the parish and 5 furlongs WSW
of the town of Clackmannan.
Craig Rossie, a green hill on the mutual border of
Auchterarder and Dunning parishes, Perthshire, 2^ miles
E by S of Auchterarder town. It is one of the most
conspicuous of the Ochils, rising to an altitude of 1250
feet above sea-level.
Craigrostan. See Craigrotston.
Craigrothie, a village, -n-ith a public school, in Ceres
parish, Fife, IJ mile WSW of Ceres town. It is a
burgh of barony, governed by a bailie and councillors.
Pop. (1861) 308, (1881) 192.
Craigrownie, a quoad sacra parish in Roseneath
parish, Dumbartonshire, comprising the police burgh of
Cove and Kilcreggan. It is in the presbytery of Dum-
barton and sjniod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the stipend is
£120. Its church stands at the E side of the entrance
to Long Loch, near Barons Point ; in its vicinity is
Craigro\vnie Castle. Pop. (1871) 1103, (1881) 1136.
See Cove and Kilcreggan.
Craigroy, an eminence in the W centre of Ross-shire,
5 miles ESE of the head of Loch Maree.
Craigroyston or Rob Roy's Cave, a cavern in Buchanan
parish, Stirlingshire, at the E side of Loch Lomond, 7
furlongs N by W of Inversnaid. It occurs, within a steep
rugged rock, a little above the water's edge ; is wild and
deep ; and has a narrow entrance, partly concealed by
fallen blocks. Robert Bruce spent a night in it after
the battle of Dalrj' ; and Rob Roy frequented it as a
place of consultation with his subalterns for planning
his raids.
Craigs, a hamlet in Liberton parish, Edinburghshire,
5 furlfyigs NE of Liberton village.
Craigs. See Duntocher.
Craigs, a mansion in the parish and 2 mUes ESE of
the town of Dumfries.
Craigs, Stirlingshire. See Rum ford.
Craigskean, an old baronial fortalice, now reduced to
a ruinous frngment, in Maybole parish, Ayrshire.
Craigs of Blebo. See Blebo Craigs.
Craigs of Coyle. See Coyltox.
Craigs of Ness, a rocky gorge on the mutual border
of Straiton and Dalmellington parishes, Ayrshire, in the
course of the river Doon, immediately below its efflux
from Loch Doon. Cliffs on each side, 230 feet high, are
richly clothed with shrubs and trees, and form so close
a gorge as to leave a width of not more than 4 or 5
yards for the fretting current of the river.
CraigspajTOW, a hilly section of Newburgh parish,
Fife, projecting southward from the main body of the
parish, and rising to an altitude of about 600 feet above
sea-level.
Craigston. See Barra.
Craigston Castle, a mansion in King-Edward parish,
NW Al)crdeenshire, 4^ miles NNE of Turriff. Founded
in 1004-7 by John Urquhart, Tutor of Cromarty, it con-
sisted originally of a central tower and tAvo projecting
wings, but was so altered by connecting archwork as to
be made quadrangular, and is now an interesting edifice,
with beautiful grounds and plantations ; among its por-
traits are three by Jameson and four of the dethroned
Stuarts. The present owner, Francis Edward Romulus
Polhud-Uniuhart (b- 1S48 ; sue. 1871), holds 3998 acres
in the shire, valued at £2856 per annum.
CRAIGTHORNHILL
CRAIL
Craigthornhill, an estate, with a mansion, in Glas-
ford parish, Lanarksliire, 5 miles S by E of Hamilton.
Craigton. See Peteeculter.
Craigton, a village in IMonikie parish, Forfarshire, 5
miles "SVNW of Carnoustie, under which it has a post
office.
Craigton, an estate, with an old mansion and a bleach-
iield, in the Dumbartonshire section of New Kilpatiick
parish. The mansion stands near the eastern base of
the Kilpatrick Hills, 3J miles NE of Duntocher ; is a
large edifice of 1635 ; and has been converted into
domiciles for the operatives of the bleaclifield. The
bleachfield lies on Craigton Burn, a rivulet rising
on the Kilpatrick Hills, and running 3 J miles south-
eastward to the Allander ; and contains all appliances
for the best treatment of yarns. A public school
adjoins it.
Craigton, a village in Airlie parish, "W Forfarshire, 4
miles S\V by W of Kirriemuir. See Airlie.
Craigton, an estate, with a mansion, in Abercoru
parish, Linlithgowshire, 2 miles NW of Winchburgh
station.
CraiguUian, a loch in Strathldane parish, SW Stir-
lingshire, If mile WSW of Strathblane village. "With
an utmost length and breadth of 3| and 1 J fui'longs, it
lies 380 feet above sea-level, on a j^lateau that terminates
in an imposing range of basaltic columns, popularly
called the Pillar Craig.
Craig Vinean, a long, wild, wooded ridge of hill in
Little Dunkeld parish, Perthshire, between the con-
fluent Tay and Bran, culminating 1§ mile W of Inver
village, at 1247 feet above sea-leveL Diversified all
over with rocky protuberances, sharp undidations, and
deep hollows, it both contains charming close views
within its ovm recesses, and commands wide prospects
from its vantage-grounds ; and it forms a romantic
feature in the envii'ons of Dunkeld.
Craigwood, a pyramidal hill (558 feet), with a terrace
around it, in Dunkeld parish, Perthshire, a little to the
E of Dunkeld town. It commands a very fine view of
Dunkeld, and of the mountain-passes diverging thence.
Crail, a seaport town and a parish of the East Neuk
of Fife. A royal and parliamentary burgh, the town is
picturesquely situated in a gullj!", beyond which the red-
roofed houses rise again. It is 2-| miles WSW of Fife
Ness, 10 SE of St Andrews, and 4^ NE of Anstruther
station, this being 38f miles NE of Edinburgh ; and on
the Anstruther and St Andrews railway, now (1882) in
course of construction, it is to have a station of its own.
It dates from remote times, figuring so far back as the
first half of the 9th century as a seat of commerce with
the Netherlands, an important fishing and fish-curing
station. And still it retains an old-woiid character ; still
down towards the sea rise massive, antique dwelling-
houses ; and though the gates are gone, the name of
' 2)orts ' preserves their memory. A royal castle or
palace, the occasional residence of David I. (1124-53),
surmounted the low cliff a little E of the harbour, but,
excepting the merest fragment of a wall, has wholly dis-
appeared. So old, however, is the parish church, that
many have fancied the ' sair Sanct ' himself may have
prayed ^^ithin its walls — a fancy forbidden by the style
(Second Pointed) of its architecture. As repaired in
1828, it contains 900 sittings, and consists of an aisled
nave, 80 feet long ; a chancel, reduced from 55 to 22§
feet ; and a western tower, with stunted octagonal
spire. The SW porch has been destroyed, but the
dedication cross is yet decipherable on the walls, into
which has been built a far more ancient cross, sculp-
tured with animals and other emblems. Till 1517
this church of St Macrubha was held by Haddington
Cistercian nunnery, whose prioress, with Sir William
ilyreton, then made it collegiate, for a provost, ten pre-
bendaries, a sacrist, and choristers. On 9 June 1559,
John Knox, attended by a 'rascal multitude,' preached
from its pulpit his Perth 'idolatrous sermon,' with the
usual outcome of pillage and demolition ; and to it in
1648 the Earl of Crawford presented James Sharp, arch-
bishop that was to be. The castle had a chapel dedi-
Seal of Crail.
cated to St Rufus ; and the site of another, at the beach
to the E of the town, is known as the Prior Walls. A
Free church and a U.P. church are in the town, which
further has a neat town-hall, a post office, with money
order, savings' baidc, and telegraph departments, a branch
of the Commercial Bank, a local savings' bank, 7 insur-
ance agencies, a public library, a principal inn, two
public schools, a brewery, and gas-works. The neigh-
bouring golf links are small and uneven, gi'eatly inferior
to those of Balcomie, IJ mile further to the eastward.
The harbour is hard to enter, and neither the oldest nor
the best ; for the ancient havi-n, Roome Bay, i mile
eastward, is naturally larger and better sheltered, and
could, at comparatively trifling cost, be converted into
a deep, safe, and accessible anchorage for fully 200 ves-
sels. But at present Ci-ail's commerce comprises little
more than import of coals, and the export of grain and
potatoes, for a small
surrounding district ;
and the harbour re-
venue was only £82 in
1867, £134 in 1874,
£190 in 1880, and
£126 in 1881. Fish-
ing is carried on to a
noticeable extent, but
to an extent much less
than at some other
towns and villages of
Fife, or indeed at Crail
itself in the days when
its sun-dried haddocks
were widely famous as
' Crail capons. ' Of late
years Crail has become a favourite resort of summer
visitors, for whose accommodation several handsome
villas have been built. The burgh, first chartered by
Robert the Bruce in 1306, is governed by a provost, 2
bailies, a treasurer, and 5 other councillors ; with St
Andrews, Oupar, Kilrenny, the two Anstruthers, and
Pittenweem, it retm-ns a member to parliament ; the
municipal and parliamentary constituency numbering
190 in 1882, when the corporation revenue and burgh
valuation amounted to £226 and £3444. Pop. (1841)
1221, (1861) 1238, (1871) 1126, (1881) 1145.
The parish is bounded N by St Leonards and Kings-
barns, NE by the German Ocean, SE by the Firth of
Forth, S by Kilrenny, SW by Carnbee, and NW by
Dunino. Its utmost length, from E to W, is 6f miles ;
its breadth varies between 1 and 2§ miles ; and its area
is 6782f acres, of which 399^ are foreshore. The coast,
6 miles in extent, is bold an cT rocky, and little diversified
by creek or headland. Its most marked features are
Fife Ness at the N side of the entrance of the Firth of
Forth, and the skerries of Carr and Balcomie. Kippo Bum
traces 2§ miles of the Kingsbarns, and Chesters Burn 2
miles of the Dunino, boundary ; whilst a rivulet runs to
the Firth at the town. The land rises steeply from the
shore to a height of from 20 to 80 feet above sea-level,
thence swelling gently west-north-westward to 300 feet
near Redwells, 400 near Kiugsmuir House, and looking
all, in a general view, to be flat, naked, and uninterest-
ing. It has little wood, and not a lake or hill or any
considerable stream to relieve its monotony ; but com-
mands, from its higher grounds, a very lovely and ex-
tensive prospect. The prevailing rocks are of the Car-
boniferous formation. Sandstone, of good quality for all
ordinary purposes, occurs in almost every quarter ; and
limestone abounds, but lies too deep to be easily worked.
Coal and ironstone have both been mined ; and clays
have been dug for local brickyards. The soil varies in
character, from the richest black loam on the immediate
seaboard, to thin wet clay in the NW ; and the rent
has varied accordingly, from £1, 10s. to £8 an acre.
Between Balcomie and Fife Ness is an ancient stone
work, supposed to date from the 9th century, and
l)opularly known as the Danes' Dyke ; other anticjuities
are the ruined fortalices of Barns, Balcomie, and Airdrie.
These are all separately noticed, as likewise are the
299
CRAILING
mansions of Kingsmuir, Kirkmay, and Wormistone.
Eight proprietors hold each an annual value of £500
and upwards, 6 of between £100 and £500, 11 of from
£50 to £100, and 14 of from £20 to £50. Crail is in
the presbytery of St Andrews and synod of Fife ; the liv-
ing is worth (1882) £379. The two public schools, East
and West, with respective accommodation for ISO and
142 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 110
and 84, and grants of £91, 12s. and £56, 14s. lid.
Valuation (1882) £11,631, 6s. 8d. Pop. (1801) 1652,
(1831) 1824, (1S61) 1931, (1871) 1847, (1881) 1740.—
Ord. Suri, sh. 41, 1857. See the Rev. C. Rogers'
3:(!istcr of tlie Collegiate Church of Crail (Grampian
Club, 187'7).
Crailing, a village and a parish of Teviotdale, in
Roxburghshire. The village stands on Oxnam Water,
IJ mile ESE of Nisbet station on the Jedburgh branch
of the North British, 4^ miles NE of Jedburgh, and 7
SSW of Kelso, under which it has a post oiEce.
The parish, containing also the village and station of
Xisbet, comprises the ancient parishes of Crailing, Nisbet,
and Spittal. It is bounded NW and NE by Roxburgh,
E by Eckford, SE by Oxnam, SW by Jedburgh, and W
by Anerum. Its greatest length, from N by W to S by
E, is 4| miles ; its greatest breadth, from E to W, is 4
miles ; and its area is 6043^ acres, of which 78 are water.
The Teviot, ^^inding 4^ miles east-north-eastward on
the Jedburgh border and through the interior, here from
the S receives OxxAM Water, whose last 2J miles belong
to Crailing. The surface, where the Teviot quits the
parish, sinks to 150 feet above sea-level, thence rising to
619 feet near Littlelonley, on the S side of the river ; on
the N, to 774 at Peniel Heugli and 527 near Blackrig
jdantation. On Peniel Heugh is the Yv'^aterloo Column,
150 feet high, whose top is gained by a spiral staircase,
and which bears inscription, ' To the Duke of Wellington
and the British Army, AVilliam Kerr, sixth Marquis of
Lothian, and his tenantry, dedicate this monument, 30
June 1815.' These heights excepted, most of the parish
consists of parts of the lowest, warmest, richest, and most
lovely region of the Teviot's basin. The rocks of the
hills are eruptive, those of the valley Devonian; and
sandstone, of fine building quality, has been quarried
in two places. The soil in general is a light loam.
About 300 acres are imder wood, less than lOUO are in
permanent pasture, and nearly all the rest is under the
plough. A Roman road may still be traced in the west ;
and two camps, supposed to be Roman, have left some
vestiges on Peniel Heugh. David Calderwood, the
Church historian, here entered on the ministry about
1604 ; and Samuel Rutherford (1600-61), the eminent
Covenanting di\ane, was the son of a Nisbet farmer.
MouNTEViOT, a seat of the Marquis of Lothian, is one of
the three chief mansions, the others being Palace and
Crailing House, a plain modern mansion, which crowns a
gentle eminence above the wooded banks of Oxnam Water.
Its owner, Jn. Paton, Esq. of Crailing (b. 1805 ; sue. 1826),
holds 1493 acres in the shire, valued at £2323 per annum,
and shares nearly all this parish with the Marquis, the
latter owning its northern, and the former its southern,
division. Crailing is in the presbytery of Jedburgh and
synod of .Merse and Teviotdale ; the living is worth
£370. The church, rebuilt about the middle of last
century, is a very plain structure containing 300 sittings
A Free church contains 262 sittings ; and a public school,
with accommodation for 81 cliildren, had(1880)aii average
attendance of 63, and a gi-ant of £49, 9s. 6d. Valuation
(1882) £9374, 19s. 6d. Pop. (1801) 669, (1831) 733,
(1861) 673, (1871) 657, (1881) 638.— On/. Sur., shs. 17,
25, 1864-65.
Crammag or Crummag, a precipitous headland on the
W coast of Kirkmaiden parish, Wigtownshire, 5 miles
NW of the Mul) of Galloway. It is cut olf from tlie
neighbouring moi>T by remains of a trench and a vitrified
ram part.
Cramond, a village in the NW corner of Edinburgh-
shire, and a pari.>5h partly also in Liidithgowshire. Tlie
village is pr<-ttily situatc<I on the Firth of Forth, at the
E side of tlie mouth of tlie river Almond, 5 miles S of
300
CRAMOND
Aberdour, 3 WNW of Craigleith station on the Leith
branch of the Caledonian, and 5 WNW of Edinburgh,
with which it communicates four times a day by omnibus.
Its name in Celtic signifies ' the fort upon the Almond ;'
and it occupies the site of an important Roman station,
which was connected by a fine military way with the
great English Watling Street and with Antoninus' Wall,
and which has yielded coins of eleven emperors, three
altars, a ))avemeut, and other Roman remains. From
1628 to 1730 it gave the title of Baron to the family of
Richardson. At it are a post ofiice, boys' and girls'
schools, and the parish church.
The parish, containing also the seaport of Granton,
the villages ofDAVinsoN's Mains and Cuamond Bridge,
and a small part of Leith burgh, is bounded N by the
Firth of Forth, E by St Cuthberts, S by Corstorphiue,
SW by Kirkliston, and W by Dalmeny. Its greatest
length, from E to W, is 4 J, or from ENE to WSW 5|,
miles ; its greatest breadth, from N to S, is 2 miles ; and
its area is 6662 acres, of which 704| are foreshore, and
42J are water, whilst 1185 belong to Linlithgowshire.
Cramond Island, f mile NNE of the village, may be
reached at low water on foot, and, measuring 3 by 1^
furlongs, aflbrds pasturage for a few sheep ; IJ mUe
further is another still smaller basaltic islet. Inch
Mickery. The shore line, 5 miles long, is fringed at
places with low beds of mussel-mantled rocks, and backed
by a terrace, marking the former lower level of the land ;
the walk along it from Grauton to Cramond village is
one of the pleasantest round Edinburgh. The Almond
winds 3§ miles east-north-eastward and north-north-
eastward to the Firth, roughly tracing all the Linlith-
gowshire boundary ; from Craigiehall onward its banks
are finely wooded. The surface, though undulating,
nowhere much exceeds 200 feet above sea-level, except
iu the S which includes the northern slopes, but not
the tower-crowned summit (520 feet) of fir-clad Cor-
STORPHINE Hill. The whole, however, is so richly
adorned with mansions and parks, woods and well-
cultivated fields, as everywhere to present a charming
aspect. The trees include the four splendid sycamores
of Braehead, Cammo, Cramond House, and Craigiehall,
which, with respective height of 101, 75, 89, and 70 feet,
girth 12f, ISJ, ISi, and 16^ feet at 1 foot from the
ground ; and Cramond House has also a beech and an
oak, 85 and 60 feet high, and 26^ and 10 feet iu circum-
ference. The rocks belong mainly to the Calciferous
Limestone series, but diorite intrudes on Corstorphiue
Hill, and basalt at five dillcrent localities — on the coast,
at the Almond's mouth, and on its banks higher up.
Clay ironstone has been raised here by the Curron Com-
pany ; and a mmeral sining, iu the grounds of Barnton,
as Marchfield Spa enjoyed once some medicinal celebrity.
The soil is various, but on the whole is good. Oyster
and other fisheries have greatly declined in value, but
employment is given by Granton's industrial establish-
ments, by the ink and chemical works of Caroline
Park, by the British and Oriental Ship Coating Com-
pany, and by Cramond Iron Company, which dates from
1771. Families formerly connected with this parish
were those of Hope of Grantouu, Ramsay of Barnton,
Howison of Braehead, Adamson of Craigcrook, Inglis of
Cramond, Argyll, and Balmerino : amongst its illus-
trious natives or residents were John Law of Lauriston
(1671-1729), projector of the Mississippi scheme; Geo.
Cleghorn (1716-89), professor of anatomy in Dublin
University; Jas. Hamilton, M. D. (1749-1835); John
Philip Wood (1760-1838), antiquary; Archibald Con-
stable (1775-1827), the celebrated publisher; his sou
and biographer, Thomas Constable (1812-81) ; Scott s
darling, Marjorie Fleming (1803-11); Francis Lord
Jetfrey (1773-1850), the famous critic; and Andrew
Lord Rutherford (1791-1851), an eminent judge of ses-
sion. At Jlarchfield, too, the late William Sharpe ot
Hoddam bred ilarthaLynn, the dam of Voltigeur, from
whom all the best racing blood in England is tlfsceuded.
Cramond House, a little eastward from the village, is a
handsome and commodious mansion, founded about 1680,
and greatly enlarged in 1772 ; a square three-storied
CRAMOND BRIDGE
CRATHES CASTLE
tower to the XW is the only remains of a 15th century
palace of the Bishops of Dunkekl. Its present owner,
successor of the Inglises, is Lieut. -Col. John Cornelius
Craigie-Halkett (b. 18-30 ; sue. 1877), who holds 637
acres in Midlothian, valued at £2520 per annum. Other
mansions are Barntox, Bkaehead, Broomfield, Craig-
CROOK, Dry law, Lauristox, JIuiRHorsE,Cammo or Xeav
Saughtux, and Silverkxowes ; and 10 proprietors
hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 7 of
between £100 and £500, 7 of from £50 to £100, and 23
of from £20 to £50. Cramond is iu the presbytery of
Edinburgh and sjTiod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; the
li\"ing i5 worth £480. The cruciform parish church,
originally dedicated to St Columba, was rebuilt in 1656,
and, as enlarged in 1701 and ISll, contains 958 sittings.
Other places of worship are noticed imder Graxtox and
Davidsox's Maixs ; and five public schools — Cramond,
Cramond female, Davidson's Mains, Granton mixed and
infant, and Lennie — with respective accommodation for
164, 70, 123, 211, and 62 children, had (1880) an average
attendance of 86, 58, 98, 209, and 49, and grants of
£67, 6s., £46, 5s., £67, 9s., £16-3, 4s. 6d., and £36, 12s.
Valuation (1860) £23,078, (1882) £38,606, of which
£983 belonged to the Linlithgowshire section, and £3600
was for railwavs, waterworks, &c. Pop. (1801) 1411,
(1831) 1984, (1861) 2695, (1871) 3020, (1881) 2945, of
whom 84 belonged to Linlithgowshire. — Orel. Sur., sh.
32, 1857. See John P. Wood's Ancient and Modern
State of the Parish of Cramond (Edinb. 1794).
Cramond Bridge, a hamlet in Cramond parish, at the
boundary between Edinburgh and Linlithgow shires,
on the river Almond, and on the Queensferry highroad,
5 miles WXW of Edinburgh, and IJ mile SSW of
Cramond village. It has a post office under Cramond,
a good inn, and an eight-arched bridge, erected in 1823.
See Beaehead.
Cramond Regis. See Bakxtox.
Crane, a deep triangular lochlet (§ x J furl. ) in Dunsyre
parish, E Lanarkshire, amid the moorish south-western
Pentlands, 1100 feet above sea-level, and 3^ miles NW
of Dunsyre village. It abounds with perch and pike.
Cranloch. See St Axdrews, Elginshire.
Crannich. See Weem.
Cranshaws, a Lammermuir hamlet and parish in the
N of Berwickshire. The hamlet lies, 676 feet above
sea-level, on the right bank of "Whitadder Water, 16
milfs SE by E of Haddington, and 9 KW of Dunse,
under which it has a post office.
The parish consists of two sections, which are sepa-
rated from each other by a strip (J mile broad at the
narrowest) of Longformacus, and the northernmost of
which contains the hamlet. This, with an utmost
length and breadth of 2| and 22 miles, is bounded N
by the Gamelshiel section of Stenton in Haddington-
shire, E and S by Longformacus, and W by Whitting-
ham in Haddingtonshire. The southern and larger
division measures 5^ miles from E to W ; has a varying
width, from X to S, of IJ and 3| miles ; and is bounded
KW, N, and E by Longformacus, S by Greenlaw and
Westruther, and SW by Lauder. Including 30^ acres
of water, the total area is 8738;^ acres, of which 2589
belong to the northern, and 6149:^ to the southern, por-
tion. The Whitadder runs 3| miles on or near to the
northern and eastern border of Cranshaws proper, whose
highest points are Cranshaws Hill (1245 feet) and Main-
slaughter Law (1381) ; whilst Dye Water runs 5 miles
east-by-southward along all the northern boundary of
the lower division, whose surface rises from less than 700
feet above sea-level to 1298 on Dunside Hill and 1522 on
Blyth Edge. The rocks are Silurian ; and much of the soil
is poor, the arable land along the streams amounting to
only some 900 acres. A tumulus crowns Mainslaughter
Law, which is said to have got its name from the battle
fought in 1402 between Hejibum of Hailes and the Earl
of Dunbar. The fine old peel tower called Cranshaws
Castle, standing towards the centre of the northeni
section, measures 40 bv 24 feet, and is 65 feet high ; a
former stronghold of the Douglases, and the haunt of a
drudging brownie, it now is the seat of the eldest son
of the Earl of Morton, Sholto-George-Watson Douglas,
Lord Aberdour (b. 1844), who, holding 2551 acres in the
shire, valued at £1050 per annum, divides this parish
with 2 other landowners. It is in the presbytery of
Dunse and sjtioiI of Merse and Teviotdale; the living is
worth £200. The church, at the hamlet, was built in
1739, and contains 120 sittings ; whCst a public school,
with accommodation for 55 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 35, and a grant of £52, 14s. 6d.
Valuation (1882) £2492, 16s. Pop. (1801) 166, (1831)
136, '1861) 134, (1871) 142, (1881) 106.— Ord. Sur., sh.
33, 1863.
Cranston, a parish en the XE border of Edinburgh-
shire, containing the villages of CorsLAXD, Edgehead,
and Ford, the last being i mile W by N of Pathhead,
and 4J miles ESE of Dalkeith, under which it has a
post office, with money order, savings' bank, and tele-
graph departments. Irregular in outline, Cranston is
bounded XW by Inveresk ; X by Tranent, and E by
Ormiston and Humbie, in Haddingtonshire ; SW by
Crichton and Borthwitk ; and W by Xewbattle and
Dalkeith. Its greatest length, from XX'W to SSE, is 42
miles ; its breadth, from E to W, varies between 3^ fur-
longs and 3g miles ; and its area is 5102J acres, of which
2f are water, and 677^ belong to the Cakemuir section,
lying If mile S of the SE angle of the main body.
Ttxe Water, here a very small stream, bisects the
parish north-north-eastward, running chiefly within the
beautiful parks of Oxenford and Prestouhall. "\^^lere,
below TMiitehouse mill, it passes into Ormiston, the
surface sinks to 300 feet above sea-level, thence lising
north-westward to 500 feet near Airfield and 637
near Mutton Hole, whilst in the Cakemuir section it
attains an altitude of over 1000 feet. The formation
belongs to the Carboniferous Limestone series ; and
sandstone, limestone, and coal are largely worked, the
last in Edgehead and Prestonhall collieries. About 250
acres are under wood ; and nearly all the remaining area,
with the exception of rather less than a third of the
Cakemuir division, is in a state of high culrivation.
Cranston Dean Bridge, over the Tyne, on the southern
border, with three semicircular arches, each 17 feet in span
and 46 high, is a modem structure ; as likewise is Lothian
Bridge, also over the Tyne, which, 82 feet high, has five
semicircular arches, each 50 feet in span, sitrmounted
by ten segment arches of 54 feet in span and 8 feet of rise.
Cakemuir Castle is the chief and almost sole antiquity ;
the quaint old manse, near Prestonhall, having been de-
molished forty or fifty years since. A hospice formerly,
connected with that of Soutra, it bore the monkish
inscription — ' Diversorium infra, Habitaculum supra. '
To the Cranston family this parish gave the ritle of
Baron in the peerage of Scotland from 1609 till the
death of the last and eleventh Lord in 1869. The man-
sions are Oxextord and Prestoxhall, 4 proprietors
holding each an annual value of more, and 1 of less,
than £500. Cranston is in the presbytery of Dalkeith
and sjTiod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; the living is
worth £372. The parish church, near Ford, the second
built within this century, is a good Gothic edifice, with
a tower ; and at Ford itself is a U. P. church. Two
public schools, Cousland and Cranston, with respective
accommodation for 93 and 116 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of S3 and 113, and grants of £63, 6s.
and £99, 4s. Valuation (1882) £9048, including £19
for a shoi't reach of the !Macmerry branch of the X'orth
British. Pop. (1801) 895, (1831) 1030, (1861) 1035,
(1871) 1036, (1881) 998.— Ord. Sur., shs. 32, 33, 1857-
63.
Cranstonhall. See Glasgow.
Craspul or Craisaphuill, a loch (4| x 1^ furl.) in
Durness parish, XW Sutherland, 1 fuilong W of Dur-
ness manse, and ^ mile XE of Loch Bhrlay, like which
it is fed by subterraneous tunnels through limestone
rocks, and abounds in excellent trout.
Crathes Castle, a mansion in Banchory -Teman parish,
XW Kincardinesliire, ^ mile X of the left bank of the
Dee, and Ig WXW of Crathes station, this being 14
miles WSW of Aberdeen, and 3 E by X of Banchory. A
301
CRATHIE AND BRAEMAR
line old chateau-like btriictuiv, with a lofty gi-anite tower,
s([uare and turreted, it was built partly iu 152S, partly
at later periods, and is the seat of the Burnetts of Leys,
whose founder, Alexander de Burnard, in 1324 obtained
a charter of lauds in Kincardineshire. His great-grand-
son, Robert Burnett (flo. 1409), was the first ' Baron o'
Leys,' a title familiar from an ancient ballad ; and
Thomas Burnett, twelfth proprietor of Leys, and imcle
iif Bishop Gilbert Burnett, was in 1626 created a baronet
of Nova Scotia. His eighth descendant. Sir Robert
l>umett of Leys, eleventh Bart. (b. 1S33 ; sue. 1876),
iiwns 12,025 and 84 acres in Kincai'dine and Aberdeen
shires, valued at £5007 and £109 per annum. See
Banchory -Terxan.
Crathie and Braemar, a large parish of SW Aberdeen-
j-hire, whose church stands, 920 feet above sea-level,
near the left bank of the Dee, 7^ miles W by S of
Ilallater station, and 51 of Aberdeen, under which
Crathie has a post office.
The parish, containing also the village of Castletok,
comprises the ancient parish of Braemar, annexed at a
period unknown to record. It is bounded N by Kirk-
inichael in Banffshire, and by Strathdon ; NE by Glen-
muick ; SE by Glenmuick, and by Gleuisla in Forfarshire ;
S by Kirkmichael and Blair Athole, in Perthshire ; W by
the Glenfeshie portion of Ahne, in Inverness-shire ; and
XW by Duthil-Rothiemurchus, also in Inverness-shire.
Irregular in outline, it has a varying length from E to
W of 8^ and 24 miles, a varying width from N to S of
9J and 16| miles, and an area of 183,2371 acres, of
which 9S0f are water. The Dee, rising close to the
Inverness-shire border, runs 11 miles south-south-east-
ward to the Geldie's confluence, and thence winds 25^
miles east-north-eastward, mostly through the middle
of the parish, but for the last 4| miles along the
Glenmuick boimdary. During this course it descends
from 4060 feet above sea-level at its source to 1318
where it receives the Geldie, 1214 at the Linn of Dee,
1108 at Victoria Bridge near Mar Lodge, 872 opposite
Crathie manse, and 720 at the Girnock's confluence
in the furthest E ; its principal affluents here, all of
them rising in Crathie and Braemar, and all de-
scribed in separate articles, are Geldie Burn, Lui Water,
Ey Burn, Quoich Water, Clunie Water with its tributary
GaUader Burn, Feardar Burn, Gelder Burn, and Girnock
Burn. Lakes, witli their utmost length and breadth,
and with their altitude above sea-level, are Loch Etch-
achan (4 X 3i furl. ; 3200 feet). Loch Brodichan (21 x
1 furl. ; 2303 feet). Loch Callader (6J x 1^ furl. ; 1627
feet), Loch Ceannmor (1 J x f furl. ; 2196 feet), and
Lochxagar (2^ X 1| furl. ; 2570 feet), besides thirteen
smaller tarns. From W to E the chief elevations to the
left of the Dee are *Braeriach (4248 feet), *Bex Mac-
DHUi (4296), Derry Cairngorm (3788), Carn a ilhaim
(3329), Cam Crom (2847), Sgor Mor (2666», Carn j\Ior
(2057), *Beinna' Chaoruinn(3553), Beinn Bhreac(3051),
Meall na Guaille (2550), Creag a Bhuilg (2190), *Bena-
I'.OURD (3924), Carn Elrig Mor (2068), Carn Eas (3556),
Cam na Drochaide (2681), 'Ben Avon (3843), Carn
Liath (2821), Jleikle Elrick (2318), *Meikle Geal Charn
(2533), * Brown Cow Hill (2721), Culardoch (2933),
Craig Leek (2085), Meall Alvie (1841), Leac Ghorm
(1946), Tom Bhreae (2276), An Creagan (1857), and
Creag Mhor (1643), where asterisks mark those summits
that culminate on the borders of the parish. To the
left or W and S of the Dee rise Caiuxtoul (4241 feet).
The Devil's Point (3303), *Monadh Mor (3651), Beinn
Bhrotain (3795), Carn-Cloich-mhuilinn (3087), Duke's
Cliair (2010), Carn Geldie (2039), *Carn an Fhilleir
(3276), •AnSgarsoch (3300). Cnapan Garbh (2206), Carn
Liath (2676), * Beinn lutharn Mhor (3424), Mor Shron
(2819), Cam Aosda (3003), * The Cairnwell (3059), Sron
Dubh(1909), Carn an Tuirc (3340), * Cairn na Glasha
(3484), Creaf' Choinnich (1764), Carn nan Sgliat (2260),
Creag nan Leachda (2549), Meall an t-Sluichd (2771),
Creag Doineanta (1910), the Princess Royal's Cairn
(1479), Ripe Hill (1678), Cam Fiaclan (2703), •Locii-
NAOAU (3786), Princess Alice's Cairn (1278), Prince
Albert's Cairn (1437), Creag a Ghaill (1971), *Conach-
302
CRAWFORD
craig Hill (2777), *Meall Gorm (1809), and Creag
Ghiubhais (1593). Containing thus parts or the whole
of three of the four highest summits in Scotland, Crathie
presents a landscape as varied as it is beautiful — its
clear-flowing salmon river and sweep of valley with
broad plantations, green fields, and stately mansions, its
rounded corries and narrow glens, its somlare deer-forests
and heathery grouse moors, all set in a ring of trackless,
serrated mountains. (See Aberarder, Alt-na-Giutha-
sACH, Carr, Caiiixaqueex, Charters Chest, Coruie-
MULZiE, Craig-Cluxy, Craig-Gowax, Craig-na-Bax,
Garrawalt, Moxaltrie, etc.) The prevailing rock
is granite, alternating in jdaces with gneiss, lime-
stone, and quartz, near Castleton traversed by a vein of
serpentine ; the soil of the arable lands is generally a
light sandy loam. Woods and natural forests of Scotch
firs, larch, and birch must cover an enormous area,
acres on acres of rocky hillside having been planted with
millions of trees, both native and foreign, within the
last hundred years, whilst in Mar Forest are firs from
two to three centuries old, and containing 100 or 200
cubic feet of timber (pp. 273-275, 2'raiis. Highl. and Ag.
Soc. , 1874). The mansions are Balmoral Castle, Aber-
geldie Castle, Ixvercauld House, and Mar Lodge ;
the Queen, the Earl of Fife, and Farquharson of Inver-
cauld holding each an annual value of more, and 31
other proprietors of less, than £100. Giving off since
1879 the quoad sacra pai-ish of Braemar, Crathie is
in the presbytery of Kincardine O'Neil and S3'nod
of Aberdeen ; the living is worth £370. The parish
church is a plain edifice of 1806, seated for 800,
and adorned ■\\'ith a two-light stained-glass window,
erected by Her Majesty in 1873 to the memory of
Xorman Slacleod, who preached his first sermon as
court chapdain here on 29 Oct. 1854. At Easter Bal-
moral, on the opposite bank of the Dee, across a sus-
pension bridge, is Crathie Free church, ^vith a spire ;
other places of worship are noticed under Castletox.
Besides the school there, Crathie public, Aberarder,
Abergeldie female, and Crathie Side schools, with re-
spective accommodation for 98, 184, 39, and 67 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 65, 15, 18, and 35,
and grants of £48, 2s., £22, 17s., £14, 6s., and £46,
8s. 6d. Valuation (1860) £7868, (1881) £14,430. Pop.
(1801) 1876, (1831) 1808, (1861) 1574, (1871) 1566,
(1881) l61B.—0rd. Sur., shs. 65, 64, 75, 1870-76. See
the Rev. .Tames M. Crombie's Braemar and Balmoral
(2d ed. 1875).
Craufurdland Castle. See Crawfxjrdland.
Crawford, a village and a parish in the upper ward
and the south-eastern extremity of Lanarkshire. The
village, toward the NW corner of the parish, stands on
the left bank of the Clyde (here crossed by a chain bridge
of 75 feet span), opi)osite the influx of Midlock and
Camps Waters, and adjacent to the Caledonian railway,
2| miles SE of its post-town and station, Abington, this
being 43J miles SW of Edinburgh. Enjoying anciently
the privileges of a burgh of barony, it was, prior to the
railway period, an important resting-place for travellers,
but now is little more than a rural hamlet, with an
hotel, the parish cliurch, and a public school.
The parish, containing also the village of Leadhills,
is traversed for 12^ miles by the main trunk of the
Caledonian, wliich here attains its summit level (1012
feet), and here has the stations of Abington and Elvan-
foot. It is bounded N by Lamington ; NE by Culter ; E
by Tweedsmuir, in Peeblesshire ; SE by Jloflat and Kirk-
]iatrick-Juxta, in Dumfriesshire ; S by Closeburn, and
SW by Durisdeer and Sanquhar, all three also in Dum-
friesshire ; W and NW by Crawfordjolin. Its utmost
lengtli, from N to S, is 144 miles ; its breadth, from E to
W, varies between IJ and llg miles; and its area is
68,839i acres, of which 313 are water. Evax Water is
formed by several head-streams in the E of the parish ;
otherwise the drainage system has been alreadj' sketched
under the Clyde, which here from its source near the
soutliern boundary takes a northerly course of 28 miles,
and wliich here receives, on the left hand, Powtrail, Elvan,
and Glengonner Waters, ami, on the right, Little Clydes
CRAWFORDJOHN
CRAWFURDLAND CASTLE
Bum and Midlock and Camps Waters — all of tlieni rising
in Crawford, and all of them separately noticed. Where
the Cl3xle quits the parish, the surface sinks to 800 feet
above sea-level, these rising southward, south-eastward,
and eastward to mountain watersheds of the Southern
Highlands, which separate Clydesdale from Nithsdale,
Annandale, and Tweeddale The chief elevations from
N to S to the W of the Clvde are Eavengill Dod
(1758 feet), Wellgrain Dod (1813), Lousie Wood Law
(2028), Dun Law (2216), Green Lowther (2403), and
Ballencleuch Law (2267) ; whilst to the E rise South-
wood Rig (1556), the Pinnacle (1819), *Coomb Dod
(2082), YearngiU Head (1804), Wintercleuch Fell (1804),
*Whiteside Hill (1817), and Earncraig Hill (2000), where
asterisks mark those summits that culminate on the
borders of the parish. The glens or vales for the most
part have considerable breadth of bottom, and are partly
dry, partly wet and spongy. The rocks are in places
metamorphic, but chiefly Silurian. Roofing slate has
been worked in one small quarry ; lead ore is extensively
mined at Leadhills, where also many valuable minerals,
as gold, silver, calamine, blende, manganese, malachite,
azure copper ore, iron pjTites, etc., have been found.
The soU on the banks of the Clyde, and near the mouths
of its affluents, is variously alluvial, loamy, sandy, and
gravelly ; that of nearly all the remaining area is moorish.
About 2200 acres are arable, less than 160 are under
wood, and all the rest is either pastoral or waste.
Crawford Castle, or Tower Lindsay, on the right bank
of the Clyde, opposite Crawford village, is a ruined
baronial stronghold, once defended by a moat ; from the
close of the 12th century till 1488 it was the seat of the
Lindsays, who in 1398 received the earldom of C^a^^•fo^d.
(See Cults and Balcarees.) The parish is traversed
b}' a Roman road, branching off near Elvanfoot to Xiths-
dale and Annandale, and flanked by two well-preserved
Roman camps on Boadsberry HUl and White Camp
farm. It also contains three native camps or hill-forts,
and the sites of several pre-Reformation chapels. jSTew-
ton House is the only mansion ; but the property is
divided among 12 landowners, 8 holding each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 1 of between £100 and £500,
1 of from £50 to £100, and 2 of from £20 to £50.
Detaclied from Leadhills for church and school and
registration purposes, Crawford is in the presbytery of
Lanark and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is
worth £335. The church, rebuilt in 1875, contains
2S0 sittings ; and three public schools — Crawford, Daer-
Powtrail, and Summit — with respective accommodation
for 103, 27, and 53 children, had (1880) an average
attendance of 57, 14, and 22, and gi'ants of £71, 93.,
£27, 16s., and £32, 14s. Valuation (1860) £13,774,
(1S82) £22,598, 17s. Pop. of civil parish (1801) 1671,
(1831) 1850, (1861) 1590, (1871) 1829, (1881) 1763;
oiq. s. parish (1881) 698.— Orel. Sur., shs. 15, 16, 1864.
Crawfordjolm, a village and a parish in the SW of
the upper ward of Lanarkshire. The village stands, 950
feet above sea-level, near the left bank of Duneaton
Water, 6| miles N by E of Leadhills, and 4 W of its
post-town and station, Abington, this being 43^ miles
SW of Edinburgh. At it are a post office, 2 inns, the
manse, the parish church, and a public school ; and by
Dorothy Wordsworth, who, with her brother and Cole-
ridge, drove through it in August 1803, it was described
as ' a pretty, cheerful-looking village, but one that must
be very cold in A\'inter, for it stands on a hillside, and
the vale itself is very high gi'ound, unsheltered by
trees.' One specialty has Crawfordjohn, that the curl-
ing-stones made at it are the best to be found in
Scotland.
The parish, containing also Abixgton village, is
bounded N by Douglas, NE by Wiston, E by Laraing-
ton, SE by Crawford, SW by Sanquhar and Kirkconnel
in Dumfriesshire, W by Auchinleck and Muirkirk in
Ayrshire. Its utmost length is 12J miles from E by N
to W by S, viz. , from Abington to the Ayrshire boundary ;
its breadth diminishes from 9| miles in the E to 7 furlongs
in the W ; and its area is 26,460^ acres, of which 103;}: are
Water. The Clyde flows 2i miles northward along all the
eastern boundary, whilst the south-eastern is traced for
24 miles by its afiluent, Glengonner Water. Snar Water,
draining the south-eastern district, runs 6 miles north-
ward to Duneaton Water ; and Duxeatox Water itself
rises close to the Ayrshire border, and thence winds 19
miles east-by-northward to the Clyde, its first 6j miles
following the Douglas, and its last If mile the Wiston,
boundary. Where the Clyde quits the parish, the sur-
face sinks to 750 feet above sea-level, thence rising to
1130 at Knock Leaven, 1260 at Black Hill, 1400 at
Mountherrick, 1584 at Drake Law, 1620 at Rake Law,
1808 at Wanlock Dod (just within Sanqubar), 1616 at
Cairn Kinny, and 1843 at Stony Hill (just within
Auchinleck). The rocks are mainly metamorphic and
Silurian, partly carboniferous ; and they include lime-
stone and white sandstone, with traces of coal and of lead
and copper ores. The soil of some of the low gi-ounds
along the streams is a deep rich loam', of others sandy
or gravelly ; whilst here and there on the hill-slopes it
is a strong red clay, and elsewhere generally moorish.
Some 3200 acres are arable, and not more than 50 are
under wood. Vestiges of three old castles are at Moss
Castle, Glendorch, and Snar ; and ti-aces of one large
ancient camp crown the SE shoulder of Black Hill ;
whilst near Shieldholm is another, supposed to be
Roman. In 1839, the Eglinton Tournament year. Prince
Louis Napoleon, Fi'ench emperor that was to be, arrived
at Abington inn, wet, tired, and hungry, from a day's
grouse-shooting on Crawford Muir. He could get no
sitting-room, so took bis supper by the kitchen fire,
slipped away to bed, and early next morning started again
on foot. Abington House is the only mansion ; and 3
proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and up-
wards, 6 of between £100 and £500, and 5 of from £20
to £50. Giving off a small portion to LeadhUls quoad
sacra parish, Crawfordjohn is in the presbytery of Lanark
and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth
£356. The parish church, enlarged and repewed in 1817,
contains 310 sittings. At Abington is a Free church ;
and three schools — Crawfordjohn, '\^^litecleuch, and
Abington — with respective accommodation for 72, 23,
and 93 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 64,
12, and 50, and grants of £54, 17s., £27, 8s. 2d., and
£53. Valuation (1882) £11,007, 193. Pop. (1801) 712,
(1831) 991, (1861) 980, (1871) 853, (1881) 8id.—0rd.
Sur., sh. 15, 1864.
Crawford Priory, a mansion in the N of Cults parish,
central Fife, near the right bank of the Eden, 3 miles
SW of Cupar. Built in 1813 by Lady Mary Lindsay
Cra^rford, who in 1808 had succeeded to the Crawford-
Lindsay estates on the death of her brother, the twenty-
second Earl of Crawford, it was originally a splendid castel-
lated edifice in the Gothic style, but fell into neglect and
dilapidation, till in 1871-72 it was thoroughly renovated
and enlarged, a carriage porch and vestibule being then
erected at the S entrance, and a Gothic tower and spire,
115 feet high, at the E side, whilst a portion of the
interior was converted into a private Episcopal chapel.
It now is a seat of George Frederick Boyle, sixth Earl of
Glasgow (b. 1825 ; sue. 1869), who owns 5625 acres in
the shire, valued at £9085 per annum. See also CuM-
brae, Hawkhead, and Kelburx.
Crawfordton, an estate, with a modem mansion, in
Glencairn parish, W Dumfriesshire, IJ mile from
Moniaive. Its owner, George Gustavus Walker, Esq.
(b. 1831), was county member 1865-68 and 1869-74;
and holds 7660 acres in the shire, valued at £3478 per
annum.
Crawfurdland Castle, a mansion in Kilmarnock
parish, Ayrshire, on the left bank of Crawfurdland
Water, 3 miles NE of Kilmarnock town. Comprising
a strong, tliick-walled, ancient tower, and a fine modern
Gothic centre, it has been for upwards of six centuries
the seat of a branch of the Craufurds ; its present holder,
Lieut. -Col. Jn. Reg. Houison-Craufurd (b. 1811; sue.
1871), owns 1876 acres in the shire, valued at £1988
per annum. (See also Braehead.) Crawfurdland Water,
formed by two head-streams in Fenwick parish, close to
tlie Renfrewshire border, winds 8^ miles south-westward
303
CRAWICK
through Fenwick and Kilmarnock parishes, and, IJ mile
NNE of Kilmarnock town, unites with the Fenwick to
form Kilmarnock Water.— Orrf. Sur., sh. 22, 1865.
Crawick, a rivulet of NW Dumfriesshire, formed, at
780 feet above sea-level and -within a mile of the Lanark-
shire border, by the confluence of Wanlock and Spango
Waters. Thence it winds 8 miles south-south-westward
along the boundary between Sanquhar and Kirkconnel
parishes, and fulls "into the Nith f mile WNW of San-
quhar town. — Ord. Sur., sh. 15, 1864.
Crawick Mill, a village in Sanquhar and Kirkconnel
parishes, Dumfriesshire, on Crawick Water, 1 mile NW
of Sanquhar town. It lies within Sanquhar burgh
bounds, and has an extensive carpet and tartan factory.
Cray, a place in Kirkniiehael parish, NE Perthshire,
on the left bank of Shee Water, 15 miles N by W of
Hlairgowrie. Here are a Free church and Cray House,
whose Q-wner, Mrs Robertson, holds 437 acres in the
shire, valued at £113 per annum.
Crayinch, a wooded islet of Kilmaronock parish, Dum-
bartonshire, in Loch Lomond, ^ mile NE of Inchmurrin.
Triangular in shape, it measures 2 by 1 J furlongs.
Creack, a village in Auchindoir parish, W Aberdeen-
shire, 3i miles SW of Rhynie.
Creagach. See Ciiaggie.
Creca. See Axxan.
Cree, a river of Galloway, issuing from Loch Moan,
which lies, 675 feet above sea-level, on the mutual
boundary of Ajt and Kirkcudbright shires. Thence it
winds 11 miles south-south-westward along that bound-
ary, and next 21J miles south-eastward along all the
boundary between Kirkcudbright and Wigtown shires,
past Newton -Stewart, till at Creetown it falls into the
head of Wigtown Bay, the lena jEstiiarium of Ptolemy.
On its right lie the parishes of Barr, Colmonell, and Pen-
ninghame, on its left of MinnigatT and Kirkmahreck ;
and on its left it receives Minnoch Water, Penkill Burn,
and Palnure Burn. Navigable for small craft as high
as Carty, it assumes near Penninghame House a lake-
like appearance, widening at intervals to close on a
furlong ; here were of old the celebrated ' Cruives of
Cree,' i.e., salmon-traps in the stone cauls or dam-dykes,
which, serving the country-folk for bridges, came to be
well-known landmarks. Throughout most of its lower
course the 'crystal Cree' flows through flat flowery
meadows, its banks being only occasionally adorned Avith
heathery knolls and lichened or fern-clad rocks ; but
from Bargrennan upwards its scenery is wild and moun-
tainous, a succession of desolate moorlands. Trout may
be caught in considerable quantities in the upper waters ;
salmon and sea-trout at several good casts about Penning-
hame House ; and smelt or sperling, during March, in
the brackish waters of the estuary. — Ord. Sur., shs. 8,
4, 1857-63. See pp. 12-22 of Wm. M'Hraith's Wigtovm-
shire (2d ed., Dumf., 1877).
Creebridge, a village, with a public school, in Minni-
gaff parish, Kirkcudl)rightsliire, on the left bank of the
Cree, opposite Newton-Stewart, with which it is con-
nected by a five-arch bridge, erected in 1813 at a cost of
£6000.
Creed (Gael. Av^Jiuinn Ghride), a rivulet in the S of
Stornoway parish, Lewis island, Ross-shire. Formed
by two head-streams at an altitude of 300 feet above sea-
level, it winds 9J miles east-south-eastward to the
western side of Stornoway Harbour, f mile SSW of
Stornoway town. It traverses Loch an Oash and Loch
a Chlachain, and makes a fall opposite Sir James
Matheson's Grotto, up to which point it abounds in sea-
trout, grilse, and salmon. — Ord. Sitr., sh. 105, 1858.
Creeinch. See Crayixch.
Creetown, a small seaport towTi in Kirkmabreck parish,
SW Kirkcudbrightshire, on the estuary of the river
<Jree or head of Wigtown Bay, 3| miles as the crow
Hies NE of Wigtown, and 1 mile S of Creetown station
on the Portpatrick railway, this being 64 miles SE of
Newton -Stewart, and 43^ WSW of Dumfries. A
village, called Creth, occupying its site, was in 1300 the
rendezvous of an PZnglish army ; and either that village
or a successor to it, bearing the name «f Ferrytown of
304
CREICH
Cree, became nearly extinct in the ISth century. The
present town, founded in 1785, embraced some houses
which still remained of the old village, and was made a
burgh of barony in 1792, to be governed by a bailie and
four councillors, elected triennially by the resident
feuars. It stands between Moneypool and English-
man's Burns, amid a great expanse of beautiful scenery ;
and, chiefly consisting of modern houses, each with its
garden and orchard, relies in great measure for support
on the neighbouring granite quarries. At it are a post
office, with money order, savings' bank, and railway
telegrajih departments, 2 chief inns, a public school,
the parish church (1834 ; 800 sittings), and a neat U.P.
church (300 sittings) ; whilst in the immediate neigh-
bourhood are the mansions of Barholm and Cassencarie.
Capt. Jas. Murray Denniston (1770-1857), author of
Legends of Galloway, died at Creetown. Pop. (1841)
984, (1851) 1302, (1861) 968, (1871) 805, (1881) 970.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 4, 1857.
Creggans. See SritACHrR.
Creich, a parish of N Fife, extending to within 5
furlongs of the Firth of Tay, and containing the villages
of Luthrie and Brunton, each ^vith a post office under,
and respectively 54 and 6| miles NW of, Cupar-Fife.
It is bounded NW by Flisk, NE by Balmerino, E by
Kilmany and Moonzie, S by Monimail, SW by Dunbog,
and W by the easternmost section of Abdie, having
an utmost length from NNE to SSAV of 3^ miles, a
width of 1| mile, and an area of 2341 acres. The sur-
face, sinking in the south-eastern corner to less than
200 feet above sea-level, is elsewhere a congeries of hills,
which on the NW border attain 568 feet, and at Black
Craig in the NE 665 — heights that command a magni-
ficent view of the Tay's basin, away to the Sidlaws and
the Gi'ampians. Some of the hills are cultivated to the
top ; others are partly covered with plantations ; and
others, again, are rocky and heathy. Several burns,
rising here, unite near Luthrie to form Motray Water, a
tributary of the Eden. The rocks, eruptive mainly,
include greenstone, am3'gdaloid, clinkstone, and basalt ;
and a laminar or stratified trap has been worked in one
quarry, basaltic clinkstone in another. The soil is vari-
able, ranging from black or thin sharp gravelly loam to
clay or moss. On Green Craig is a hill-fort, consisting
of two concentric lines of circumvallation ; and a little
to the SE are the ruins of the old parish church, and of
Creich Castle, which, three stories high, and 47 feet long
by 39 broad,' appears to have been a place of very
considerable strength, and was defended on one side by
a morass, now drained, on the other by outworks. In
1502 the estate around it was acquired from the Littles
or Liddels by Sir David Bethune, whose daughter,
Janet, Lady Buccleuch, is the ' Lad ye of Branxholm '
in Sir Walter's Lay, and whose great-granddaughter
was one of the ' Queen's four Maries ; ' it passed by
purchase to the Bethunes of Balfour about the middle
of the 17th century. Of Parbroath Castle, a seat of the
Setons, in the S of the parish, hardly a vestige remains.
Natives were the Rev. Alex. Henderson (1583-1646),
the zealous Covenanter, and John Sage (1652-1711),
nonjuring Archbishop of Glasgow. Creich is in the
presbytery of Cupar and synod of Fife ; the living is
worth £282. The parish church, i mile NNW of
Luthrie, is a good Gothic structure, built in 1832, and
containing 252 sittings. A Free church stands near
Brunton. The public school, with accommodation for
80 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 74, and
a grant of £59, 8s. Valuation (1882) £4044, 16s. 8d.
Pop. (1801) 405, (1831) 419, (1861) 377, (1871) 387,
(1881) 386.— On/. Stir., sh. 48, 1868.
Creich, a very large Highland pari.sh in the S of
Sutherland, containing, towards its SE corner, the
village of Bon.\r-Bridge, and traversed for 5g miles by
the Sutherland railway, with Invershin station thereon,
3i miles NNW of Ardgay, and 17^ NW of Tain. It is
bounded at its north-western extremity by Assynt and
Eddrachillis ; along its north-eastern side by Lairg,
Rogart, and Dornoch ; at its south-eastern corner by the
upper waters of Dornoch Firth which separate it from
CREID
Edderton in Eoss-shire ; and along its south-western
side by Kincardine, likewise in Koss-shire. From SE to
NW its greatest length is 31^ miles ; its breadth vaiies
between 1| and 9^ miles ; and its area is 110,736f acres,
of which 735 are foreshore and 1911^ water, it thus
being nearly half the size of all Midlothian. Lakes
of the interior, from SE to NW, Avith their utmost
length and width and their altitude above sea-level, are
Loch MiGDALE (2 miles x 3 furl. ; 115 feet) Loch a'
Ghobhair (4x1 furh ; 7-12 feet). Loch an Lagain (7^ x
If furl. ; 446 feet), sending off the Evelix, Loch Laro
(7ixli furh ; 600 feet), Loch na Claise Moire (7x3
fiu'l. ; 774 feet), Loch na Faichde (4x1^ furl. ; 1400
feet). Loch Garn nan Conbhairean (4 x If furl. ; 1104
feet), and a number of smaller tarns. On the Dornoch
border lies Loch BriE (1^ x J mile ; 527 feet) ; on the
Rogart, Loch Cracail Mor (6xlJ furh ; 620 feet); on
the Kincardine, Loch Ailsh (7 x 4^ furl. ; 498 feet) ; and
on the Eddrachillis, Gorm Loch Mor (7x4 furl. ; 846
feet). The river Cassley, issuing from the last, hurries
2O2 miles south-eastward along tlie middle of the parish
to the OiKELL, which itself winds So^ miles south-
south-eastward and east-south-eastward along all the
Kincardine boundary, through Loch Ailsh and the Kyle
of Sutherland, to the head of Dornoch Firth, at Bonar-
Bridge. At Invershin, lower down than the Cassley, it is
joined from the N by the Shix, whose last 5J miles lie
either on the boundary with Lairg or through the
interior of Creich. The surface, hilly everywhere, in
the NW is mountainous, attaining 1090 feet on ileall
Moraig, 937 on Meall Mor, 1318 on Cnoc a Choire, 1341
on Beinn an Rasail, 1785 on Beinn na Eoin, 2345 on
Meall an Aonaich, and 3273 on Benmore Assynt, the
loftiest summit of Sutherland. Benmore is made up of
Silurian quartzite and trap ; lower down are carboni-
ferous and Old Picd sandstone rocks. Very hard trap
has been worked in two quarries : and a small vein of
manganese occurs at Rosehall, which, in common with
Flode, Pulrossie, and other places, also yields excellent
clay ; but coal and shale have been sought for in vain.
Woods cover a considerable area round Bonar-Bridge,
where the soil of the plough-lands is mostly a light
gravelly loam ; and there are several good arable and
sheep farms. The largest of the latter is Invercassley,
which, extending to 35,000 acres, comprises much
black land, lying high, and so exposed to wind and
frost. Prof. Harry Rainy, M.D. (1792-1876), was a
native. Antiquities are a ' Pictish tower ' and a stone
circle near Rosehall, two groups of stone circles near
Bonar-Bridge, and, near the church, a vitrified fort on
the Dun of Creich and a standing stone, 8 feet long by
4 bro^d, which is said to have been reared on the grave
of a Danish chieftain. Rosehall House is the principal
mansion, and 3 proprietors hold each an annual value
of £1800 and upwards, 3 of between £500 and £830, 4
others of more, and 2 of less, than £100. Creich is in
the presbytery of Dornoch and synod of Sutherland ;
the living is worth £260. The parish church, on Dor-
noch Firth, 3| miles ESE of Ardgay, was built in 1790,
and contains 500 sittings. There are also two Free
churches of Creich and Rosehall ; and four public
schools — Bonar-Bridge, Invershin, Larachan, and Rose-
hall— with respective accommodation for 158, 47, 100,
and 90 children, had (1880) an average attendance of
60, 20, 47, and 71, and grants of £50, 15s., £34, £53, 13i3.
6d., and £60, lis. 6d. Valuation (1860) £5466, (1882)
£11,732, lis. 4d., including £649 for railway. Pop.
(1801) 1974, (1831) 2562, (1861) 2521, (1871) 2524,
(1881) 2223, of whom 1571 were in Bonar, and 652 in
Rosehall, registration district. — Ord. Sur., sh. 102, 1881.
Creid. See Creed.
Creinch. See Ceayinch.
Creoch, Loch. See Cumnock, New.
Cretan, a stream and a sea-loch in the N of Argyll-
shire, separating the district of Appin from the parish
of Ardchattan. The stream rises 4f miles SSE of Balla-
chulish, on the south-western slope of Sgor na h-Ulaidh
(3258 feet), at 2500 feet above sea-level, and thence winds
11^ miles west-south-westward to the head of the sea-loch.
20
CRICHTON
The lower part of its glen is finely wooded, and here it
receives the Ure, and traverses Loch Fasnacloich ; its
waters are strictly preserved, and the salmon and trout
fishing is good. — The sea-loch curves 8 miles west-south-
westward, nm-th -westward, and south-westward to Loch
Linnhe, opposite the upper part of Lismore Island, and
nowhere is more than 1| mile broad, whilst narrowing
to 2 furlongs at its mouth near Shian Ferry, and to 1
furlong towards its head near Creagan Ferry, being
crossed at these two ferries by different routes from Oban
to Ballachulish. With an average depth of 15 fathoms,
and a spring-tid« of 15 feet, it affords good harbourage
in all its lower parts. By Dorothy Wordsworth it is
described as ' a large irregular sea-loch, with low sloping
banks, coppice woods, and uncultivated grounds, with a
scattering of cornfields ; as it appeared to us, very
thinly inhabited ; mountains at a distance.' See Glex-
ceeeax. — Orel. Sur., shs. 45, 53, 1876-77.
Creth. See Ceeetown.
Crianlarich, a hamlet in Killin parish, W Perthshire,
at the mouth of Strathfillan, with a station on the Cal-
lander and Oban railwa}-, 5^ miles SE of Tyndrum.
Lying 522 feet above sea-level, it has an hotel and a
public school, and by coach communicates with Ardlui
at the head of Loch Lomond, 9 miles to the SSAV.
Crib Law, a hill (1389 feet) in the Selkirkshire por-
tion of Roberton parish, 3 miles ENE of the meeting-
point of Selkirk, Roxburgh, and Dumfries shires.
Crichie, a hill (500 feet) in the N of Kintore parish,
Aberdeenshire, If mile S by W of Inverurie. Bruce
was encamped here in 1308 at the time of his victory
over the Comj-ns in Bocetie parish.
Crichie House, a mansion in Old Deer parish, NE
Aberdeenshire, | mile SE of Stuartfield.
Crichope Linn. See Closebuex.
Crichton, a parish on the E border of Edinburghshire,
containing, at its northern extremity, the village of
Pathhead, on the road from Edinburgh to Lauder, 5
miles ESE of Dalkeith, and 3| N of Tynehead station.
Tynehead itself and Fala Dam hamlet "(2| miles SE of
Pathhead) also belong to Crichton, which is bounded
NE by Cranston and by Humbie in Haddingtonshire,
SE by Fala, the Blackshiels section of Humbie, the
Cakemuir section of Cranston, the CowbraehUl section
of Borthwick, and the Falahill section of Stow, SW and
W by the main body of Borthwick. Its utmost length,
from N to S, is 4i miles ; its width, from E to W, varies
between 3§ furlongs and 3^ miles ; and its area is 4821^
acres, of which nearly f acre is water. Ttxe Water,
rising close to Tynehead station, meanders 3 miles
north-north-eastward along all the western border ; the
interior is drained by several subaffluents of Humbie
Water. The surface, sinking near Pathhead to close on
400 feet above sea-level, and to 600 at Costerton, attains
804 feet at a point 7 furlongs ESE of the church, and
900 upon Crichton Moss. The rocks belong mainly to
the Carboniferous Limestone series, •with a patch of basalt
on the higher ground ; limestone has been largely worked ;
and coal occurs, though not under conditions to be pro-
fitably mined. The soil over fully four-fifths of the
area is rich and deep, accessible most of it to the plough,
and yielding abimdant crops ; the high lands are shel-
tered by belts of thriving plantation. A ri<iug-gi-ound
at Longfaugh, commanding a wide and beautiful pro-
spect, is crowned by remains of a fort, supposed by some
to be a Roman camp ; but Crichton's chief antiijuity
is Crichton Castle, a magnificent massive ruin, which
forms the grand feature in the landscape, as it rises from
a projecting terrcplein within a hundred yards or so of
the top of the hill on the Tyne's right bank, ^ mile S of
the church. A Turstan de Creicliton is one of the
witnesses to the charter of foundation of Holyrood
Abbey (1128) ; his most famous descendant was Sir
William Crichton, the founder of both castle and church,
who, as chancellor of Scotland, was alternately rival and
friend of Sir Alexander Livingston, and who in 1440 at
Edinburgh Castle beheaded the young Earl of Douglas
and his brother — an act of treachery for which his own
fortress was taken and dismantled by the Douglases. (See
305
CRICHTON
Douglas Castle. ) In 1445 Sir William was made Lord
Crifhton, the third holder of which title lost his estates
in 14S4 for joining Albany against James III. After four
years' tenure bv the minion Ramsay, they were granted
in 14SS to Patrick Hepburn, first Earl of^BoTHWELL, by
whose great-grandson, Darnley's murderer, they were
once more forfeited in 1567. Nine years later James VI.
bestowed them on his ill-starred cousin, Francis Stewart,
fifth Earl of Bothwell; and subsequently they passed
through the hands of a dozen proprietors, from one of
whom, Hepburn of Humbie {c. 1649), the Castle was
nicknamed Humbie's Wa's, till at last they came to the
Callendars. Queen Mary feasted in the castle hall, on
occasion of the marriage here of her natural brother. Sir
John Stewart ; but Crichton's chief interest lies, with
most readers, in the visit paid to it by ' Marmion. '
Scott's lines describe the ruin faithfully : —
' Crichton ! though now thy miry court
But pens the lazy steer and sheep;
Thy turrets rude, and tottcr'd keep.
Have been the minstrel's loved resort.
Oft have I traced within thy fort,
Of mouldering shields the mystic sense.
Scutcheons of honour or pretence,
Quarter'd in old armorial sort,
Remains of rude magnificence.
Nor wholly yet has time defaced
Thy lordly gallery fair ;
Nor yet the stony cord unbraced.
Whose twisted knots, with roses laced.
Adorn thy ruin'd stair.
Still rises unimpair'd below
The courtyard's graceful portico
Above its cornice, row and row
Of fair hewn facets richly show
Their pointed diamond form.'
'Crichton,' he adds in the Notes, 'is a large ruinous
castle on the banks of the Tyne, built at different times,
and ^vith a very dilferent regard to splendour and accom-
modation. The oldest part of the building is a narrow
keep or tower, such as formed the mansion of a lesser
Scottish baron ; but so many additions have been made
to it, that there is now a large courtyard, surrounded by
buildings of different ages. The eastern front of the
court is raised above a portico, and decorated with
entablatures bearing ancliors. All the stones in this
front are cut into diamond facets, the angular projections
of which have an uncommonly rich appearance. The
inside of this part of the building appeal's to have con-
tained a gallery of great length and uncommon elegance.
Access was given to it by a magnificent staircase, now
quite destroyed. The soffits are ornamented with twin-
ing cordage and rosettes ; and the whole seems to have
been far more splendid than was usual in Scottish
castles.' So that Crichton still offers a signal contrast
to its grim square neighbour, Borthwick, even although,
since Sir Walter's day, its courtyard has been encum-
bered by the fall of a huge portion of the massive north-
eastern tower. Costerton House, 3^ miles ESE of
Pathhead, at the eastern extremity of the parish, is
the principal mansion, the seat of David Ainslie,
Esq. ; and the property is mostly divided among 5
heritors. Crichton is in the presbytery of Dalkeith and
.synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; the living is worth
£353, exclusive of manse and glebe. The collegiate
church of SS. JIary and Kentigern, 1| mile SSW of
Pathhead, was founded in 1449 for a provost, 8 pre-
bendaries, a sacrist, and 2 singing boys. Second
Pointed in style, it was to have been cruciform, but
never received the nave, so now comprises a chancel,
with sedilia ; transej)ts, the northern of which is blocked
up with an un.siglitly vault ; and a massive, square,
sad<lie-backed tower. The chancel, which, serving for
parish church, contains 500 sittings, is disfigured by a
gallery, and several of the windows have been blocked
up ; but the whole might at no great cost be restored to
its pristine beauty. A public school, with accommoda-
tion for 209 children, had (1880) an average attendance
of 183, and a grant of £174, lis. Valuation (1882)
£8343, including £532 for railway. Pop. (1801) 923,
(1831) 1325, (1861) 1364, (1871) 1223, (1881) 1094.—
Ord. Snr., slis. 32, 33, 1857-63. See Billings' Baronial
306
CRIEFF
and Ecclesiastical Antiquities (1845) ; Sir Thos. Dick
'La.wiiev's Scottish Rivers {new gA. 1874); and J. W. SmaU's
Leaves from my Sketch Books (1880).
Crichup Linn. See Closeburn.
Criech. See Creich.
Crieff (Gael, crubha, ' haunch '), a to^\•n and a parish
of central Perthshire. The town stands on ground
ascending from the Earn's left bank, 100 to 400 feet
above sea-level, at the terminus of the Crietl" Junction
and the Crieff & Methven branches of the Caledonian,
opened respectively in 1856 and 1866. By road it
is 6h miles E by S of Connie, and by rail 18 W of
Perth, 108 SW of Aberdeen, 38 WSW of Dundee, 9
NNW of Crieff Junction, 26 NNE of Stirling, 62^ NNW
of Edinburgh, and 56;^ NNE of Glasgow. Boldly rest-
ing on a sunny or southward slope, and sheltered from
cold winds by pine-clad eminences, this ' Montpelier of
Scotland ' has long been famous for its pure, dry
climate no less than for its exquisite sunoundings.
' From every street,' to quote the Beauties of Upper
Strathearn, ' a landscape of rare sweetness and beauty is
disclosed. The valley, here widening to 10 or 15 miles,
is studded E, S, and AV, as far as the eye can reach,
with mansions and villages, embowered in oak or pine
woods. Here and there the Earn — no mean stream — is
seen gliding along its winding course, now with the
dash of a mountain torrent, and anon with the measured
tread of a royal pageant, till the eastern view is lost
under the receding slopes of the Ochils. On the N and
NAV the Grampians, with Bex Choxzie (3048 feet) for
centre piece, rear their dark forms against the sky-line,
in summer and autumn shining in their natural bloom.'
Charters were dated from Crieff so long ago as 1218,
and for centuries it has been recognised as the capital of
Strathearn, the seat of the great civil jurisdiction of tlie
Earls Palatine till 1483, and of the criminal courts of
the Stewards or Seneschals down to the abolition of herit-
able jurisdiction in 1748. The 'kind gallows of Crieff,'
whence sometimes of a morning a score of plaids had
dangled in a row, still stood at the western end of tlie
town, when Scott came hither in 1796 ; and he notes in
Waverley how the Highlanders M'ould touch their
bonnets to it, with the ejaculation — ' God bless her nain
sell, and the Tiel tamn you ! ' To this day may be seen
the ponderous iron stocks, and near them an octagonal
stone fleur-de-lis, 10 feet in heiglit, tlie cross of the
burgh of regality of Drummond (1688) ; whilst further
to the eastward is the Cross of Crieft', transferred to its
present position little more than a century since from
the ancient barony of Trowan, and by some archieolo-
gists pronounced to be of Norman, by others of Runic,
character {Sculptured Stones of Scotland, 1867). Other
antiquities the town has none ; for its massy Tolbooth
of 1685, with cage and clock-tower and corbie-stepped
gables, was demolished in 1842 ; and, though it gave
shelter to the great Montrose, Crieff dwindled into a
mere kirktown between 1483 and 1683. Then it began
to revive, George Drummond of Milnab, afterwards
provost of Edinburgh, giving off pieces of his lands in
feu ; but on 26 Jan. 1716, it was burned to the last house
by 350 of the Chevalier's Highland adherents. For
some years it lay in ruins ; but from 1731 James Drum-
mond, titular third Duke of Perth, bestirred himself in
the work of repair and improvement, laying out James
Square and extending the town westward, whilst found-
ing a large linen factory. This was destroyed in tlie
'45, when tlie loyal town narrowly escaiied a second
singeing, and the Drummond estates were forfeited to
the Crown. By the commissioners, however, who
managed them from 1752 to 1784,* bleacliing, tanning,
* In 1784 the Drummond estates were conferred by George III.
on Captain James Druiiininnd, who claiiiicd to be heir-male of
Lord .Tohn Drummoiid, brother of the third Duke of Perth,
and who, In 1707, was created Haron Perth. They now are held
by his grand-daughter, Clementina Heatlicdte-Drumniond -Wil-
loughby. Baroness Willoughby de Eresby, and Joint Hereditary
Chamberlain of Kngland, having been uiisiiecessfully claimed
(lSfJS-71) by George Drummond, Earl of Perth and Melfort, aa
nearest heir-male of the third Duke. See Dkliimu.n1) Castlk,
Pkktu, and Strathearn.
CRIEFF
paper-making, and other imlustries were fostered to a
height that bade fair to make Crietf an important
industrial centre ; and the woollen manufacture was
added in 1812, about which time three whisky distil-
leries, with eight malting house, were also started. The
last were all closed in 1S28 ; and, generally speaking,
Crielfs mauufaetui'es received a signal blow from tlie
termination of the great war with France, as well as from
changes in fashions, machinery, and modes of transit.
Prospects brightened once more with the opening of the
railway ; and since 1856 Crieft .\\s made rapid progress,
so that, where scarcely thirty years ago villas and cot-
tages ornees were 'almost totally wanting,' they now
may be counted by dozens, and only within the last
decade £200,^^00 has been expended on new buildings.
Wordsworth and his sister Dorothy here passed the
night of 9 Sept. 180-3 ; and on 10 Sept. 1842 the Queen
drove through the town, which has given birth to the
poet David Mallet (1700-65), the chemist Prof. Thos.
Thomson (1773-1852), and Prof. Jas. Gibson, D.D.
(1799-1871).
The old Drummond Arms, where Prince Charles
Edward, after reviewing his forces, held a stormy
council of war (3 Feb. 1746), was recently feued to the
Commercial Bank of Scotland, and premises for the
bank and a large hotel have been built. The Royal,
too, one of three other hotels, besides two temperance
ones, has been greatly enlarged ; but the chief hospice
<br tourists and invalids is Strathearn House, the large
hydropathic establishment, erected in 1867 at a cost of
£30,000, 1 mile NNE of the station. It stands 440 feet
above sea-level, on the southern slope of the sheltering
Knock, in grounds 70 acres in extent ; and is a dignified
Elizabethan structure, four stories high, and 345 feet
long, with a turreted square tower and 200 apartments,
of which the dining and drawing rooms are 84 feet
long, 30 ^vide, and 15 and 30 high. It has Tm-kish
and other baths in great variety ; and its water-sup-
j)]y, 20,000 gallons per diem, is brought from springs,
gathered in a reservoir an acre in extent, and 4 miles
distant, and by Prof. Brazier of Aberdeen was reported
to be one of the finest and purest waters he had ever
examined. At or near the town are a post office, with
money order, savings' bank, insurance, and telegraph
departments, branches of the Bank of Scotland and the
British Linen Co., Clydesdale, Commercial, Korth of
Scotland, and Union Banks, a local savings' bank, an
ugly to'ssTi-house (1850), containing a mechanics library,
a masonic lodge, a recreation ground (1880), gas-works,
a commodious station (improved 1873), a cemetery, a
bridge across the Earn (rebuilt 1867-68) three manufac-
tories of woollen shirtings, blankets, tweeds, and plaid-
ings, two chemical manure works, two tanneries, and
one distillery. There are two Saturday papers published
— the Liberal Stratlicarn Uerald (1856) and the Liberal-
Conservative Cr if ff Journal [Idibl). Tuesday is market-
day, and fairs are held on the first Tuesday of every
mon*h ; but the famous Michaelmas Tryst, where
30,000 black cattle would be sold by the Highlanders to
English drovers for 30,000 guineas and upwards, was
removed to Falkirk about 1770. MacKy, in his
Joanicy Throiujh Scotland (1723), has sketched its
humours with a vigorous hand ; and Robert Donn's
Gaelic poem describes the home-sickness that came over
him while counting of droves in its enclosures.
Nowhere is the great building acti\-ity of modem
Crieff displayed more markedly than in its schools and
churches. The ancient parish church of St Thomas was
demolished in 1787, when forty gold coins of Robert I.
were found in its Gothic walls. On its site arose the
plain East church, with an ill-designed bell-tower ; but
this, in turn, in 1881 gave place to a goodly Gothic
edifice in Strathearn Terrace, built at a cost of £4500,
and seating 1000 worshippers. The "West church, built
as a chapel of ease in 1838, and raised to quoad sacra
status in 1864, also contains 1000 sittings. In 1881
the Free church was rebuilt in Comrie Street, at a cost
of £4500, exclusive of site ; and, Scoto-Gothic in style,
has 860 sittings and a massive tower, whose .slated spire
CRIEFF
rises to 120 feet. The U.P. church (533 sittings) was
rebuilt in 1837 ; St FiUan's Roman Catholic church
(200 sittings) in 1871; and St Columba's Episcopal
church (600 sittings) in 1877, the last at a cost of £6000,
in the Early Decorated style, with a spire 130 feet high.
There are, moreover. Baptist and Independent chapels.
Thomas Morison, native of Muthill, and builder in
Edinburgh, d}-ing in 1826, left the residue of his
fortune to accummulate to the value of £20,000, with
which, in 1859, was founded Morison's Academy, a
Scottish Baronial structure, standing in gi-ounds 10 acres
in extent, just to tlie N of the town, whilst St Mar-
garet's College, at the E end of Crieff, was afterwards
purchased by the seven trustees for the rector's residence
and boarders. As remodelled in 1878, the Academy has
a rector, English, mathematical, and modern languages
masters, and a lady superintendent, and gives a liberal
education to 120 boys and girls of the upper and middle
classes. Taylor's Institution, under 6 managers, was
founded by William Taylor of Cornton, tallow chandler
in Crieff (d. 1841), for the children of the poor of the
parish, and in 1859 was enlarged by addition of a
female industrial school. It and the public school, with
respective accommodation for 252 and 450 children, had
(1880) an average attendance of 211 and 309, and giants
of £170, 9s. and £247, 4s.
Having adopted the General Police and Improvement
Act in 1864, Crieff is governed by a senior and a jimior
magistrate and 10 police commissioners. Its municipal
constituency numbered 560 in 1882, when the bm-gh
valuation'amounted to £20, 439, the revenue being £1098,
including* assessments. Pop. (1776) 1532, (1792) 2071,
(1835) 3835, (1851) 3824, (1S61) 3903, (1871) 4027
(1881) 4469, of whom 110 were in Muthill parish, and 3
in that of Monzievaird and Strowan.
The parish comprises two divisions, united by a strip
5 furlongs wide at the narrowest, and belonging — the
southern to Strathearn, the northern to Gleualmond.
The southern, containing the town, is bounded NE by
Monzie and FowUs-Wester, SE by Madderty and the
Innerpeftray section of ilonzie, S and SW by Muthill,
and W by 5lonzievaird-Strowan ; whilst the northern,
containing Corriemuchloch hamlet, is almost enclosed
by the main and outlying portions of !Monzie and
Fowlis-Wester. The utmost length of the whole is IO5
miles from SSE to NXW, viz. , from the Earn at Stra-
geath Ferry to the summit of Beinn na Gainimh ; the
utmost wi(ltn of the southern division is 3^ miles from
E to W, of the northern 7i miles from SE to XW ; and
the area of the entire parish is 20,546| acres, of which
162 are water, and 90| lie detached within Fowlis-
AVester. The Earn winds 4 J miles south-eastward,
roughly ti-acing all the iluthill boundary ; and its
tributary, Tueiiet Water, flows 2 miles southward along
the Monzievaird and Strowan border, which higher U]'
is traced by Barvick Burn. The Shaggie Burn,
another of the Tm'ret's affluents, has here a west-south-
westerly run of 1^ mUe, and it.'self receives Keltie
Burn, flowing 4^ miles south-south-eastward along the
boundary with Monzie. Lastly, the Almuxd takes a
winding east-south-easterly course of 10 miles in the
northeru division, during which it descends from 870 to
500 feet above sea-level. The surface, sinking at the
SE corner to less than 100 feet, thence rises to 911 feet
on the Knock of Crieff, 1196 on the Hill of Callander,
and 2498 on Stonefield Hill ; in the Glenalmond i)ortio!i
the chief elevations are Beinn na Gainimh (2367 feet),
Meall Reamhar (2186), and Dun ilor (1520). The rocks
are chiefly Old Red sandstone in the south, and clay-
slate in the N ; the soil near the town is a pretty ricli
loam, but elsewhere ranges from sandy or gravelly to
stiff, reddish, tilly clay. With the exception of some
560 acres under wood, the whole almost of the Strath-
earn division is under cultivation ; the Glenalmond
portion, on the other hand, is everywhere Highland in
character. Anti(iuities are the Roman camp of Fen-
Docii, Clach-xa-Ossian, a fort on Dun Mor, and a
cairn on tlie opj)osite hill. Ferx Thwer is the prin-
I cipal mansion ; and 8 proiirietors liold each an annual
' 307
CRIEFF JUNCTION
value of £500 and upwards, 11 of between flOO and
£500, 32 of from £50 to £100, and 60 of from £20 to
£50. Crietf is in tlie presbytery of Auchterarder and
sjTiod of Pertli and Stirling ; the living is worth £293.
Valuation (1868) £17,926, 13s. 2d., (1882) £30,680,
15s. Sd. Pop. (1801) 2876, (1831) 4786, (1861) 4490,
X1S71) 4598, (1881) 4852.— Orrf. Sur., sh. 47, 1869.
See S. Korner's I'ambles ronnd Crieff and Uxcursicnis
i7i(othe IIighlands{Edinh. 1858); Bean'tiesof Upper Strath-
earn (Crieff, 1854 ; 3d. ed. 1870) ; and Orieff, its
Traditions and Characters, with Anecdotes of Strathearn
(Edinh. 1S81).
Crieff Junction, a station in Blackford parish, Perth-
shire, at the deflection of the Crietf Junction railway
from the Caledonian, 2^ miles SSW of Auchterarder,
and 9 SSE of Criefl'.
Criffel, a barren though verdant granitic mountain-
group of SE Kirkcudbrightshire, commencing in New-
abbey parish near the Kith, and running south-westward
across Kirkgunzeon, Urr, and Colvend, down almost to
the shore of the Solway Firth. It culminates in conical,
peaked Knockendoch (1867 feet), 2^ miles S by W of
Newabbey village, and from this ' huge Criffel's hoary
top,' as Wordsworth calls it, commands in clear weather
a map-like \dew of the Solway's basin and the Cumber-
land mountains beyond, with far-away glimpses of
Arran, Ireland, and the Isle of Man. 'Drayton,' saj-s
Dorothy Wordsworth, 'has prettily described the con-
nection this neighbourhood has with Cumberland when
he makes Skiddaw say —
' " Scurf ell from the sky,
That Annandale doth crown, with a most amorous ej'e
Salutes me every day, or at my pride looks grim,
Oft threat'ning me with clouds, as I oft threat'ning him." '
According to a prophecy ascribed to Thomas the Rhymer,
' in the evil day coming safely shall nowhere be found
except atween CrifFel and tha sea.' — Ord. Sur., sh. 5,
1867.
Crimond (anc. Creichmont, ' clay hill '), a hamlet and a
coast parish of Buchan, NE Aberdeenshire. The hamlet,
Ij'ing 2J miles inland, is 3 miles ESE of Lonma}' station,
8| SE by S of Fraserburgh, and 9 NW of Peterhead,
under which it has a post office.
The parish, containing also the fishing hamlet of
Rattray, formerly a royal burgh, 2 miles to the ENE,
is bounded SW, NW, and N by Lonmay, NE and E by
the German Ocean, and SE by St Fergus in Banffshire
(detached). Its utmo.st length is 6§ miles from ENE to
WSW, viz. , from Rattray Head to a little beyond the
Loch of Kininmonth ; its width in an opposite direction
varies between 1| and 2| miles ; and its area is 6281^
acres, of which 243^ are water, and 148i foreshore.
The coast-line, 2§ miles in extent, includes the low,
rocky, shelving promontory of Rattray Head ; and else-
where presents a broad band of flat beach, backed by bent-
covered sand-hills. The interior rises abruptly from the
shore to 106 feet above sea-level near the coastguard
station, and, thence descending gradually towards the
centre, ascends again gently southward and south-west-
ward to 136 feet near South Mosstown, 228 at Upper
Ridinghill, and 284 at Lochhills. Loch STR.\TnBEG,
2§ miles long, and from 2 to 4i furlongs broad, lies on
the northern border, and receives burns and runnels
draining the interior ; the Loch of Kininmonth (3x1
furl.), in the SW, has been recently drained. Streams
of pure water are scarce, most being tainted with iron.
Dark blue granite prevails in the E ; red granite, gene-
rally in a cruml)ling condition, is found in the W ; trap
rock is also abundant ; and limestone was at one time
quarried. The soil near the coast is light and sandy ;
towards the centre is generally of a black loamy nature,
resting on a clay bottom ; and elsewhere is cold and
wet. Nearly five-sevenths of the entire area are arable,
less than one-eighth is pastoral, and plantations cover
a considerable extent. Crimond estate belonged once
to the Earls of Errol, whilst Logic was the seat of
a branch of the Gordons ; but both belong now to
Ethel, daugliter (b. 1869) of the late Sir Alex. Banner-
man of CiuMONMOGATE. Logie was the scene of the
308
CRINAN
fine old Jacobite song, 0 Logic o' Biichan, believed
to have been written about 1736 b}' George Halket,
schoolmaster at Rathen ; and at a spot called the Battle
Fauld, tradition points out the grave of the hero of the
famous ballad, Sir James the Rose. A circular mound,
called Castle Hill, at the E end of Loch Strathbeg, was
the site of a castle of Com}-n, Earl of Buchan ; and near
it are the First Pointed ruins of St ]\Iary's chapel of
Rattray ; whilst on the farm of Netherton of Logie is
an ancient Caledonian circle in a high state of preserva-
tion. John Farquhar (1751-1826), known as 'the rich
Farquhar of Fonthill,' was a native. Rattray House is
the principal mansion ; and 3 proprietors hold each an
annual value of more, 5 of less, than £100. Giving off
a south-western portion to the quoad sacra parish of
Kininmonth, Crimond is in the presbytery of Deer and
synod of Aberdeen ; the living is worth £296. The
present church, at the hamlet, was built in 1812, and,
containing 500 sittings, has a steeple and clock ; its
ruined predecessor, near the manse, f mile N by W, is
said to have been a prebend of St Machar's at Aberdeen
in 1262, and bears date 1576. A public school, with
accommodation for 142 children, had (1880) an average
attendance of 98, and a grant of £84, 2s. Valuation
(1881) £5997, 12s. 7d. Pop. of civil parish (1801) 862,
(1821) 900, (1841) 767, (1851) 893, (1871) 887, (1881)
827 ; of ecclesiastical parish (1881)815. — Ord. Sur., shs.
97, 87, 1876.
Crimonmogate, a mansion in Lonmay parish, Aber-
deenshire, 1^ mile W of Lonmay station. Grecian in
style, with a hexastyle granite portico, it was built
towards the middle of the present century at a cost of
£10,000 ; in its finely-planted grounds is a granite
obelisk to the memory of Patrick Milne, who bequeathed
the estate to the Banuermans. The present owner. Sir
George Bannerman of Elsick, tenth Bart, since 1682 (b.
1829 ; sue. 1877), holds 7660 acres in the shire, valued
at £7745 per annum.
Crinan, a village, a sea-loch, and a canal, in Argyll-
shire. The village, called sometimes Port-Crinan, stands
in Kilmartin parish, on the northern side of the sea-
loch, not far from the W end of the canal, 5^ miles
WNW of Lochgilphead, under which it has a post
office ; at it are an excellent inn, a wharf and slip, and
a lighthouse. The steamers, in the line of communica-
tion between Glasgow and Oban, call at it ; and here
the Queen and Prince Albert spent the night of 18 Aug.
1843 on board the royal yacht. — The sea-loch, extend-
ing 4^ miles north-westward, opens into the upper part
of the Sound of Jura, adjacent to the mouth of Loch
Craignish ; and leads the way, round Craignish Point,
to the passage, between Scarba and Luing islands, to
the Firth of Lorn. Its head is narrow and tame ; but
most of its north-eastern side is rich in interesting
features ; and its mouth, 3 miles wide, between Craig-
nish and Ardmore Points, with a group of islets in its
own waters, and with the northern extremity of Jura in
front, is strikingly ])icturesque. — The canal goes from
the middle of the AV side of Loch Gilp, 9 miles west-
north-westward, to Loch Crinan, in the vicinity of
Crinan village, and enables vessels of 200 tons burden,
from the upper Firth of Clyde to the Firth of Lorn, to
avoid the difficult and circuitous passage of 70 miles
round the Mull of Kintyre. Projectecl by Sir John
Rennie in 1793, at an estimated cost of £63,678, it was
opened in 1801 at an actual cost of £141,810 ; and even
then other loans had to be obtained, which by 1814
had burdened the Company with a debt of £67,810. It
is cut chiefly through chlorite schist, traversed by trap
dykes, and showing indications of great geognostic dis-
turbance ; and has eight locks between Loch Gilp and
the summit-level (59 feet), and seven between that and
Loch Crinan, thirteen of these locks being each 96 feet
long and 24 wide, and the other two 108 feet long and
27 wide. The average depth of water is only 10 feet,
the canal being fed by reservoirs on the hill above, whose
bursting (2d Feb. 1859) washed away part of the banks
and choked the channel for upwards of a mile with dihris.
The repairs took a sum of £12,000, which was disbursed
CRINGLETIE
by Government. The canal is used chiefly by small
coasting and fishing vessels, by goods steamboats plying
between the Clyde and Inverness, and by an elegant,
roomy, and well-appointed steamboat conveying passen-
gers between large steamers at Ardrishaig and Port-
Crinan. Since 1818 the canal has been managed by the
Commissioners of the Caledonian Canal. Its revenues
arising from the tolls have, on the average, been barely
sufficient to cover the current expenses of maintenance
and repair. The receipts and expenditure, in most
years, have been nearly equal, in the year ending 30th
April 1S64 being £3605 and £4545; in 1869, £4316 and
£4394 ; in 1873, £4614 and £4727 ; in 1876, £5057 and
£4341 ; in 1878, £5966 and £4381 ; and in 1879, £5730
and £4929, whilst the passages in the last-named year
numbered 2668.
Cringletie, an estate, with a mansion, in Eddlestone
parish, Peeblesshire, 3 miles KNW of Peebles. The
mansion, standing on a finely-wooded plateau, to the
right of Eddleston Water, was rebuilt in 1863 in the old
Scotch manor-house style, and contains some fine family
portraits by Gainsborough, Raebum, and othere. For
more than two centuries it has been the seat of a branch
of the Murraj's, which has produced a gallant soldier
and an eminent judge — Col. Alex. Murray (d. 1762),
and Jas. Wolfe Murray, Lord Cringletie (1760-1836).
The son and namesake of the latter (b. 1814) holds 5108
acres in the shire, valued at £2647 per annum.
Crocach. See Cbokach.
Crocketford, a village on the mutual border of Urr
and Kirkpatrick-Durham parishes, Kirkcudbrightshire,
near Achenreoch and Milton Lochs, 9 miles "WSW of
Dumfries. Founded by the Buchauites in 1787, it has
a post office under Dumfries, and a public school ; near
it is Crocketford House.
Croe, a clear-flowing river of Glenshiel parish, SW
Koss-shire, formed by two head-streams at an altitude
of 180 feet above sea-level, and nmning 5^ miles west-
north-westward — latterly along the Kintail border — to
the head of Loch Duich. It abounds in sabnon and sea-
trout, but is preserved. — Orel. Sur., sh. 72, 1880,
Croftanrigh. See Dalrt and Edixbuegh.
Crofthead. See Neilstox.
Crofthead, a large mineral village in Whitburn parish,
SW Linlithgowshire, 3| miles S by W of Whitbm-n
village, and 1^ mile EXE of Crofthead station on the
Morningside section of the North British, this being 6|
miles SSW of Bathgate. It has itself a Free church
and a public school ; and it practically forms one with
Fauldhouse and Greenbum villages, lying 1 mile WSW
and I mile SW. See FArLDHOusE.
Croftinloan, an estate, with a mansion, in Logierait
palish, Perthshire, near the left bank of the Tay, 2
miles SE of Pitlochrie. Its owner. Admiral Jack Henry
Murray (b. ISIO), holds 110 acres in the shire, valued
at £225 per annum.
Croftmartaig, a hamlet adjoining the village of
ACHAKX.
Croftness, a hamlet, with a Christian Knowledge
Society's female school, in Glenlivet quoad sacra parish,
Banflshire.
Crofts. See Ceossmichael.
Crogo, a hamlet in the SE of Balmaclellan parish,
KE Kirkcudbrightshire, 1^ mile XXW of Corsock.
Croick, a quooxl sacra parish in Kincardine parish,
Ross-shire, whose church (1827), manse, and school stand
in the Black Water's sequestered valley, 10 miles W of
its station and post-town, Ardgay. It is in the presby-
tery of Tain and sjTiod of Ross ; the minister's stipend
is £120, with a manse and a glebe worth each £5 a year.
— Orel. Sur., sh. 102, 1881. See Kincardine.
Crokach, a loch in Assynt parish, Sutherland, 3 miles
X of Lochinver. Lying 380 feet above sea-level, it is
1| mile long, and from ^ furlong to 3 furlongs wide ; is
studded with thirteen islets ; and contains fine, well-
shaped trout.
Crokach, a loch in the SW corner of Reay parish,
Sutherland, 5^ miles W by X of Forsinard station.
Lying 950 feet above sea-level, it contains two islets,
CROMARTY
and presents an irregular outline, with utmost length
and breadth of 5^ and 4 furlongs.
Crolin. See Croulix.
Crom, a loch on the mutual border of Fodderty and
Kincardine parish, Ross-shire, 7J miles NW of the head
of Loch Glass. Lying 1720 feet above sea-level, it has
an utmost length and breadth of f mile and 3^ lurlongs^
and communicates with the river Carron.
Cromack. See Ceammag.
Cromal or Cromwell's Mount, a circular elevation in
Ardersier parish, XE Inverness-shire, on the ridge of hill
behind Campbeltown. It rises about 20 feet above the
adjacent level of the ridge ; is crowned by an ancient
Caledonian fort, with a rampart 5 feet high and 360
feet in circumference ; and commands a very extensive
view, including parts of seven or eight counties.
Cromar, a sub-district of Aberdeenshire, on the X side
of the middle reach of the river Dee. It comprehends
the parishes of Coull, Tarland^ and Logie-Coldstone, and
a small part of Glenmuick.
Cromarty, the county town and a parish of Cromarty-
shire. A seaport and parliamentary burgh, the town
lies low on the southern shore of the Cromarty Firth, 2
miles W by S of its Sutor-guarded entrance, 4J miles E
by S of Invergordon by water and 8 by the shore-road
and Invergordon ferry, llf SSE of Tain, 9 XXE of
Foitrose, and 19^ XXE of Inverness. For more than
three centuries the sea has been steadily gaining on its
site, so that where the old biirgh stood is covered deep
by each returning tide ; but at a remote period the sea
came higher up than now, and its ancient margin is
marked by an eminence that, rising abruptly from the
level to a height of 100 feet, next forms a tableland, and
thence sweeps gently upward to the Southern Sutor.
On the said eminence, right above the town, stood the
old castle of the Urquharts, a massy, time-worn building,
battlemented, stone-roofed, and sis stories high. It was
rased to the ground in 1772, and its place is occupied by
Cromarty House ; hard by, a column, 40 feet high, is sur-
mounted by Handyside Ritchie's life-size statue (1859) of
Cromarty's most celebrated son, the stonemason geolo-
gist and author, Hugh Miller (1802-56). Even before
his day the antique gabled houses of 'Old Cromarty'
had mostly disappeared ; but their successors have in
turn grown old, and the whole place presents an appear-
ance of picturesque decay and desolation, 30 out of its
287 domiciles standing imtenanted in 1881. The Bay
of Cromarty forms one of the finest natural harbours in
the world, and during winter storms ship after ship
comes pressing into it for shelter. Thither they are
guided by a lighthouse, whose fixed red light is visible
for 13 nautical miles, and which was built on the Point
in 1846 at a cost of £3203. From a commodious quay,
constructed in 1785, and repaired and extended in 1880,
goods valued at £25,000 were shipped to London in 1807.
But by the railwa}' the commerce of Easter Ross has
been diverted to Invergordon ; and fishing and fish-
curing are now the only industries of Cromarty. It still
is head of the fishery district between Findhorn and
Helmsdale Loch, in which during 1880 there were cured
2223 barrels of white herrings, besides 1504 cod, Ung,
and hake, — taken by 298 boats of 2451 tons ; the persons
employed being 904 fishermen and boys, 8 fish-curers,
12 coopers, and 831 others, and the total value of boats,
nets, and lines being estimated at £30,505. A brewery,
a hemp and cloth factory, and one or two timber-yards
have all been closed ; two fairs have become extinct ;
but a weekly market is held, in name at least, on Tues-
day. There are three churches — the 16th century
parish church, described as ' a true Presbyterian edi-
fice ;' an Established Gaelic church, built about 1785 ;
and a Free church : and Cromarty has besides a post
office, with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph
departments, branches of the Caledonian and Commer-
cial Banks, 5 insurance agencies, 3 hotels, a neat town-
hall (1782) with cupola and clock, a masonic lodge,
and 3 benevolent societies. A royal burgh once, it was
reduced in 1672 to the rank of a burgh of barony, but
by the Reform Act of 1833 unites with the other five
309
CROMARTY
Wick burghs in returning a member to Parliament ; and,
having adopted the General Police and Improvement
Act of 1862, is governed by a provost, 9 councillors, and
9 police commissioners. Its parliamentary and muni-
cipal constituency numbered 83 in 1882, when its valua-
tion amounted to £1922. Pop. (ISOl) 1993, (1831)
2215, (1851) 1988, (1861) 1491, (1871) 1476, (1881)
1352,
Tlie parish, forming the north-eastern extremity of
the Black Isle peninsula, is bounded N by Cromarty
Firth, SE by the Moray Firth and Rosemarkie, SW by
Rosemarkie, and W by Resolis. Its utmost length, from
NE to SW, is 7i miles ; its width, from NW to SE, varies
between 1 J and 2h miles ; and its area is 7060 acres.
The coast-line, 9h miles long, presents for 3 miles to the
Moray Firth a huge brown wall of beetling precipice,
rising to 225 feet near JI'Farquhar's Bed, and 463 at
the Southern Sutor, whose highest knoll is termed the
Gallow Hill, from its having been the place of execution.
The northern shore, on the other hand, all along Cro-
marty Bay, is fringed by the level strip, already noticed,
behind which the green bank slopes ujiwards to a height
in places of 100 feet ; further inland the surface ascends
to the broad AuDMEANACii ridge, attaining 241 feet near
Newton, 477 near Bannan, and 548 near Glenurquhart.
The Sutor, or ' Hill of Cromarty,' to quote Hugh J\Iiller,
' is one of a chain belonging to the great Ben Nevis line
of elevation ; and, though it occurs in an Old Red sand-
stone district, is itself a huge primary mass, upheaved
of old from the abyss, and composed chiefly of gi'anitic
gneiss and a red splintery hornstone. It contains also
numerous veins and beds of hornblend rock and chlorite
schist, and of a peculiar-looking granite, of which the
quartz is white as milk, and the felspar red as blood.'
In the cliff are two lines of caves — one hollowed by the
waves long centmies ago, and another that the surf is
still busy scooping out. I\Iany of the former — as the
Doocot or Pigeon Caves, and the inferior though better-
kno^\'n Droi)ping Cave — 'are lined with stalactites, de-
posited bj' springs that, filtering through the cracks and
fissures of the gneiss, find time enough in their passage
to acquire what is known as a petrifying, though, in
reality, only an incrusting quality.' Garnets are plenti-
ful along the shore, where, too, are the Clach Malloch
or Cursed Stone, an enormous granitic boulder, and five
vast natural archways in the rocks. But for full exposi-
tion of Cromarty's sermons in stones the reader himself
must turn to Hugh Miller's Scenes and Lcjends of the
North of Scotland (1835) and My Schools and School-
masters (1854), which further record its memories of
JIacbeth, Thane of Cromarty ; of Wallace's fabled defeat
of the English, 4 J miles SW of the town ; of the Chap-
lain's Lair; of the Black Years (1694-1701); of the
Meal ilob (1741), etc. Towards the close of the 13th
century one William Urquhart of Cromarty was heritable
sherifi" of the county ; among his descendants was the
ail-but admirable Sir Thomas Urquhart (1613-60), trans-
lator of Rabelais, and author of 128i folio quires of MS.,
wherein he discussed as many or more original inventions.
That wily statesman, Sir Geo. Mackenzie of Tarlaat (1630-
1714), was created Viscount Tarbat in 1685 and Earl of
Cromartie in 1703. His second son, Kenneth, who
became a baronet in 1704, obtained the extensive estate
of Cromarty ; but his eldest son. Sir Geo. Mackenzie,
member for the shire, was driven by bankruptcy to sell
it in 1741 to William Urquhart of ItlELDHUM. Five
years later the earldom was attainted in the person of
George, third Earl, for his part in the '45 ; nor was it
revived till 1861, and then in favour of his fourth
descendant, Anne Hay-Mackenzie, Duchess of Suther-
land, with limitation to her second son, Francis, Viscount
Tarbat. There are now in the ]>arish 6 lesser land-
owners, 1 holding an annual value of between £100 and
£500, 2 of from £50 to £100, and 3 of from £20 to £50 ;
but much the largest proprietor is Col. Geo. Wm. Holmes
Ross of Cromarty House (b. 1825 ; sue. 1852). His
estate extends over 7946 acres, of which 4112 arc arable,
2625 in pasture, and 1209 under wood ; its rental has
been raised, by reclamations and other inn)rovenients,
310
CROMARTYSHIRE
from £5144 in 1850 to £6128. The soil is principally
loam, but clay abounds in some parts, and moorish soil
in others ; and the rent of an acre ranges from 10s. to 60s.
The moorish land reclaimed at a cost of £20 per acre
was previously under wood ; on the other hand, all the
available waste has been planted (pp. 107-111 of Trans.
Uighl. and Ag. Soc, 1877). Cromarty is in the pres-
bytery of Chanonry and synod of Ross ; the living is
worth £399. Prior to the Reformation there were six
chapels within its bounds, three of which were dedicated
to SS. Duthac, Bonnet, and Regidus ; but scarcely a
vestige remains of any one of them ; whilst a Red or
Trinitarian priory, founded about 1271, has vanished
utterly. In 1875-76 two new board schools were built
at a cost of £6000 in the town and at Peddicston, 4 J
miles to the SW. With respective accommodation for
300 and 120 children, these had (1880) an average
attendance of 164 and 40, and grants of £134, 8s. 6d.
and £19, 5s. Pop. (1801) 2413, (1831) 2901, (1841)
2662, (1861) 2300, (1871) 2180, (1881) 2009.— On/. Sur.,
sh. 94, 1878. See P. Payne's Life of Hugh Miller (2
vols., 1871), andWm. Fraser's Earls of Cromartie : their
Kindred, Country, and Correspondence (2 vols., 1876).
Cromarty Bay, a southward expansion of Cromarty
Firth, 4§ miles wide across a chord drawn west-by-
soiithward from Cromarty to Newhall Point, the distance
from that chord to the inmost recess of the shore being
1^ mile. Its sandy south-western corner, ofi'ering at
low-water a broad expanse of foreshore, is known as
Udale Bay.
Cromarty Firth, the estuary of the river Con.vn, in
Ross and Cromarty, commencing between Marj'burgh
and Dingwall, 5| miles N of the head of Beauly Fii'th,
and thence extending 19| north-eastward and eastward
to the Moray Firth, where its entrance, 7 furlongs broad,
is guarded by the North and South Sutors, 400 and
463 feet high. Its width is If mile near Kinnaird
House, 1§ at Kiltearn manse, 1 at Balconie Point,
1 J at Alness Bay, f at Invergordon, and 7| miles from
the head of Udale Bay north-eastward to the head of
Nigg Bay ; but that of its channel nowhere exceeds 9
furlongs above Invergordon. On its right lie the parishes
of Urquhart, Resolis, and Cromarty, on its left of Ding-
wall, Kiltearn, Alness, Rosskeen, Kilmuir Easter, Logie
Easter, and Nigg ; and it receives the Peft'ery, Ault-
grande, and Alness rivers on its left side, which is closely
followed by the Highland railway. Again we must turn
to Hugh Miller for a description of the broad and deep
lowest reach, as viewed from the Moray Fii'th in a clear
morning of summer : — ' The foreground is occupied by
a gigantic wall of bro^^Ti precipices, beetling for many
miles over the edge of the firth, and crested by dark
thickets of furze and pine. A multitude of shapeless
crags lie scattered along the base, and we hear the noise
of the waves breaking against them, and see the reflected
gleam of the foam flashing at intervals into the darker
recesses of the rock. The waters find entrance, as de-
scribed by liuclianan, through a natural postern scooped
out of the jniildle of this immense wall. The huge pro-
jections of clilf on either hand, with their alternate
masses of light and shadow, remind us of the out-jets
and buttresses of an ancient fortress ; and the two Sutors,
towering over the opening, of turrets built to command
a gateway. The scenery within is of a softer and more
gentle character. We see hanging woods, sloping pro-
montories, a little quiet town, and an undulating line
of blue mountains, swelling as they retire into a bolder
outline and a loftier altitude, until they terminate, some
20 miles away, in snow-streaked, cloud-cajiped Ben
Wyvis.'— On?. Sur., shs. 83, 93, 94, 1881-78.
Cromartyshire, a county, interlaced with Ross-shire,
in the N of Scotland. It comprehends an ancient
sheriirdom, hereditary in the family of Unpihart ol' Cro-
marty, and detached districts annexed in tlie latter part
of tlic 17th century, at the instance of Viscount Tarbat,
afterwards Earl of Cromarty. The ancient sherifl'dom,
or olil shire, comprises Cromarty parish, the greater
part of Resolis parish, and an undefined portion of the
Mullbuy ; and is usually stated to have a length of about
i®RAT
T^^TiTBARTHOLOMtW EDINBURGH
i f F [ rllj J ji^x^AULY; CROMAilTrAlTiD MORAY
J
CROMBIE
16 miles, a breadth of about 6h or 7 miles, and an area
of about 39,690 acres. The detached districts are a
district surrounding Tarbat House, on the NE seaboard
of Cromarty Firth ; a district commencing on the Dor-
noch Firth a little E of Tain, and extending eastward
to the Moray Firth in the vicinity of Geanis ; two small
tracts in Kincardine pai-ish, adjacent to the river Carron ;
a district extending west-north-westward from the vici-
nit}"^ of Dingwall, and including Castle-Leod and part of
Ben Wyvis ; two tracts on the N of respectively Loch
Fannich and Loch Nid ; a tract along the S side of the
middle and upper parts of Little Loch Broom ; the large
district of Coigach, lying between Loch Broom and
Sutherland, and extending to Loch Enard and Rhu More
promontory ; and the Summer islands, lying in the N
side of the mouth of Loch Broom. These eight are esti-
mated to measure aggi-egately about 344 square miles,
or 220,586 acres. The ancient valuation of the property
was £12,896 ; but the modern valuation of the property,
and all the other modern statistics, are merged into
those of Ross-shire. Tlie county has a court of lieuten-
ancy of its own ; but it has no sheriff or even sheriff-
substitute of its own ; and, as to its fiscal affairs, its
parliamentary representation, and even its parochial
distribution and its territorial character, \vith tlie ex-
ception only of Cromarty parish, it is always practically
treated as simplj'- a component part of Ross-shire.
Crombie, a small village and an ancient parish in the
SW extremity of Fife. The village stands 1^ mile S of
Cairneyhill, and 3^ miles SW of Dunfermline. The
parish is now incorporated with Torryburn, comprising
that part of it to the S of the Burn of Torry, and also
certain detached lands, which, distant 7^ miles, are
annexed quoad sacra to Saline. Its church stood on a
commanding site, overlooking the Firth of Forth, and
is now represented by some ruins.
Crombie, a burn in Kingoldrum parish, Forfarshire.
It rises 2 miles JT of Kingoldrum village ; runs past that
village ; describes a semicircle toward the E ; proceeds
If mile west-south-westward; and falls into the river
Jlelgum.
Crombie, a burn in the S of Inveraven parish, Banff-
shire, rising close to the Aberdeenshire border, at 2400
feet above sea-level, and running 7:^ miles north-north-
westward to Livet "Water at Tombae.
Crombie, a burn and an old castle in Marnoch parish,
Banffshire. The burn, rising near the Ordiquhill border,
runs 3 miles southward to the Deveron at Marnoch
manse ; and the castle stands on the right side of the
bm-u, IJ mile N of the said manse. Supposed to be
very ancient, and looking to have been a place of some
strength, it now consists of three stories, but formerly was
much higher ; and belongs now to the Earl of Seafield.
Crombie Point, a small headland, a small harbour,
and a hamlet in Torryburn parish, SW Fife, on the
Firth of Forth, 1^ mile SE of Torryburn village, and
If W by N of Charlestown. The harbour is a calling
place of the Granton and Stirling steamers.
Cromdale, a parish, chiefly in Elginshire, but partly
also in Inverness-shire. In its Elginshire portion, on the
Spey's right bank, is Cromdale station on the Strathspey
section of the Great Iv'orth of Scotland, 3 miles NE of
Granto\vn station and 21 SW of Craigellachie Junction ;
near it are a post office under Grantown, a new public
school (1877), the parish church (1809; 900 sittings),
and a viire suspension footbridge (1881) over the Spey,
195 feet in span.
The parish, till 1870 mainly in Inverness-shire, con-
tains also the town of Ghantown ; the station of Dava,
at the XW border, Sh miles NNW of Grantown ; the
station of Advie ; and the station of Broomhill, 3|
miles SSW of Grantown. It is bounded XW by Eilin-
killie; NE by Knockando; E by Inveraven, and SE by
Kirkmichael, in Banffshire ; S by Abernethy, and SW
by Duthil, in Inverness-shire ; and W by Ardclach, in
Nairnshire. Its utmost length, from NE to SW, is 16
miles ; its utmost breadth, from N W to SE, is llg miles ;
and its area is 64,253 acres, of which 899;^ are water. The
Spey winds 20^^- miles north-eastward along the border
CROOK
and through the interior, descending in this course from
about 680 to 480 feet above .sea-level ; and the Divie
and Dorbock, feeders of the Findhorn, rise in the NW
corner of the parish, the Dorbock issuing from Lochin'-
DORB, which, 2^ miles long and from IJ to 5 furlongs
broad, lies at an altitude of 769 feet on the Edinkillie
boundary. To the S of it lie Loch an t-Sithein (2f x 1
furl.), Lochan Dubh (1 x 4 furl. ), and Loch Ruigh a'
Bhuair (2x1 furl.). Chief elevations to the left or W
of the Spey, from NE to SW, are Gallow Hill (1210
feet), Geal Charn (1487), Carn na h-Eige (1673), Larig
Hill (1783), Creag a' Bharrain (1324), Cam an Loiti
(1798), Carn na Doire (1294), Carn Bad na Caorach
(1557), Craig Tiribog (1586), and Beinn Mhor (1545);
whilst to the right, on the Banffshire and Inverness-
shire border, rise Tom a Chait (1646 feet), Creag an
Tarmachain (2121), Carn Eachie (2329), and Tom Biath
(1163), tliese latter belonging to the heathy Cromdale
Hills. Granite is a predominant rock ; and limestone
of prime quality abounds in places, and has been largely
worked for both building and manure. The soil of the
haughs along the Spey is very fertile ; that of the other
arable lands is generally thin and dry. Barely a tenth
of the entire area is under the plough, and woods and
plantations cover at least as much, the country round
Granto\vn, and indeed the whole strath of the Spey,
being finely adorned with trees. On May 1, 1690, the
war in Scotland between James VII. and William of
Orange was virtually ended by the affair of the Haughs
of Cromdale, when, at a spot 2h miles E by S of Crom-
dale station, the dragoons of Sir Thomas Livingstone
surprised Buchan's sleeping Highlanders, 800 in number,
slaying more than 300, and taking 100 prisoners.
The ruined castle of Muckerach is separately noticed, as
like^ase is Castle-Grant, whose owner, Ian Charles Grant-
Ogilvie, eighth Earl of Seafield (b. 1851 ; sue. 1881),
is almost the sole proprietor. In the presbytery of
Abernethy and synod of Moray, Cromdale comprises the
ancient parishes of Inverallan and Advie, and is now
divided into the quoad sacra parishes of Inverallan and
Cromdale, the latter being worth £298, with manse and
glebe. Besides two schools in Grantown, four public
schools — Achanarrow, Ad\ae, Cromdale, and Dava —
with respective accommodation for 70 90, 100, and 50
children, had (1880) an average attendance of 33, 34,
55, and 29, and grants of £40, 2s., £26, lis., £35, 16s.,
and £36, 13s. 6d. Valuation (1881) £13,554, 2s., of
which £1627, 18s. was in the Inverness-shire section.
Pop. (1801)2187, (1831) 3234, (1861) 3943, (1871) 3817,
(1881) 3642, of whom 1166 were in Cromdale quoad sacra
parish. — Ord. Sur., shs. 74, 75, 84, 85, 1876-77.
Cromlix, a barony in Dunblane parish, Perthshire,
around Dunblane town. Cromlix Cottage, 4 miles N
of Dunblane, is a seat of the Hon. Arthur Hay Drum-
mond, the late Earl of KinnouU's third son (b. 1833 ;
sue. 1866), who owns 7465 acres in the shire, valued at
£4240 per annum. The mineral wells of Cromlix are
noticed in connection with Duxblaxe Hydropathic
Establishment.
Cromore. See Eeisoet, Loch.
Cromwell Park, a village, with bleach-works, in Red-
gorton parish, Perthshire, on the left bank of the
Almond, 1^^ mile NW of Almondbank.
Cromwell's Fort. See Ayr and Inverness.
Cromwell's Mount. See Broxmouth.
Crona, two small flat islets of Assynt parish, Suther-
land, 5 furlongs SW of Oldany island.
Cronberry, a village of recent origin in Auchinleck
parish, Ayrshire, 2 miles NE by N of Lugar. It owes
its origin to iron-works of the Eglinton Iron Co., and
has a school in connection therewith. Pop. (1871) 997,
(18S1) 799.
Crook or Creuch, a summit (1446 feet) on the western
border of Kilmalcolm parish, Renfrewshire, f mile from
the A3'rshire border, and 5 miles S by W of Greenock.
Crook, a place on the N border of St Ninians ii;irish,
Stirlingshire, on tiie Haimock rivulet, 1^ mile ESE of
Stirling. Miss Elizabeth Hamilton (1758-1816) resided
at it whilst writing her Cottagers of Glenburnie.
311
CBOOK
Crook, an inn on the mutual liorder of Tweedsmuir
and Dmiunielzier parishes, S Peeblesshire, standing, 746
feet above sea-level, near the left bank of the Tweed, 1 J
mile NNE of Tweedsmuir church and 12 miles SSE of
Biggar, under which it lias a post oflice. A well-known
hostelry in the old coaching days, it now is only a resort
of anglers for the head-waters of the Tweed. Nether
Oliver Dod (1673 feet) culminates f mile to the WSW.
Crook, Forfarshire. See CuuicK.
Crookedholm, a village in Kilmarnock parish, Ayr-
shire, on the right bank of the Irvine, li mile ESE of
Kilmarnock town, and f mile N of Hurlford Junction.
At it are a public school and a worsted siiinning-mill,
in connection with carpet factories in Kilmarnock. Pop.
(1S61) 6-20, (1S71) 770, (ISSl) 657.
Crook of Alves, a hamlet in Alves parish, Elginshire,
8i furlongs N of Alves station.
Crook of Devon, a small old village in the Kinross-
Bhire section of Fossoway parish, on the left bank of the
Devon, at its sharp westward bend or crook, witli a
station on the Devon Valley section of the North British,
14 mile ENE of Rumbling- Bridge, and 6 miles WSW of
Kinross. It is a burgh of baronJ^
Crookston, an estate, with a ruined castle, on the E
border of Abbey parish, Renfrewshire. The estate be-
longed in the 12th century to Robert de Croc, a gentle-
man of Norman ancestry, and passing by marriage in
the 13th to the illustrious family of Stewart, was then
united to the estates of Darnley, Neilston, Inchinnan,
and Tarbolton. It was held by Henry, Lord Darnley
(1546-67), who became the husband of Queen Mary ;
and in 1572 was granted to his younger brother Charles
Stewart, fifth Earl of Lennox. Afterwards it passed
through many hands to the Duke of Montrose, and
was purchased from the second Duke in 1757 by Sir
John Maxwell of PoUok. The castle stands on the
summit of a wooded slope, overhanging the left bank of
Levern Water, 3 furlongs above its influx to the White
Cart, and 3J miles ESE of Paisley. Once a massive
edifice, with centre, two lofty towers, and battlemented
wings, surrounded by a rampart and a moat, it now
consists of only one shattered tower, 50 feet high. John
Wilson, Tannahill, Motherwell, Burns, and many anony-
mous poets have celebrated Crookston in verse ; and
most persons, though on little better authority than
loose tradition, believe that it, not Wemyss, was the
scene of Lord Darnley's betrothal to Queen Mary in
1565, and the place where they spent the days im-
Diediatel}- after their marriage. A stately j'ew, known
as 'the Crookston Tree,' standing a little to the E, and
popularly regarded as having been a favourite haunt of
the royal lovers, became eventually blasted and leafless,
less from natural decay than in consequence of being
hacked and hewn by relic-hunters for pieces to be con-
verted into snuff-boxes and small ornamental ai'ticles,
till it was eventually rooted up by Sir John Maxwell in
1817. Common tradition, too, asserts that Queen Mary
from Crookston Castle viewed the battle of Langside, —
a tradition adopted by Wilson in his poem of the Clyde,
and by Sir Walter Scott, both in his novel of The Abbot
and in his History of Scotland; but the castle is 3A
miles W by N of the battlefield, is completely hid from
it by intervening heights, and, moreover, was in the
rear, not of the Queen's army, but of the enemy. — Ord.
Siir. , sh. 30, 1866. See David Semple's Tree of Crocston :
being a Refutation of the Fables of the Courtshi}) of Queen
Marie and Lord Darnley under the Yew Tree (Paisley,
1876).
Crookston, an estate in Borthwick and Stow parishes,
Edinburghshire. Its mansion, in the NE of Stow,
stands on the left bank of flala Water, If,' mile N of
Fountainhall station, and is the seat of John Borthwick,
Esq. (b. 1825; sue. 1846), who holds 9723 acres in
Edinburgh and Berwick shires, valued at £5851 per
annum. See Borthwick.
Croot, a loch (12 x jf furl.) in Kirkmichael parish,
Ayrshire, near Ijarnsheau Loch, and 3J miles NE of
Kirkmichael village.
Crosbol. See Cuaspul.
312
CROSSGATES
Crosby. See Tkoon and Duxdonald.
Cross. See Luce, Water of.
Cross. See Bakvas, Lewis.
Crossall, a sTnall eminence in Dalmeny parish, Lin-
lithgowshire, If mile ESE of Queensferry. It is sur-
mounted by remains of an ancient stone cross, and, in
pre-Reformation times, was a station of devotees on
pilgrimage to Dunfermline.
Cross and Bumess, a united parish in the N of
Orkney, comprising the south-western and north-
western limbs of Sunday island, and also, in its quoad
civilia estate, the island of North Ronaldsha3\ It
contains a post office of the name of Sanday, with money
order and saviags' bank departments, under Kirkwall ;
and, bordered on the E for 1^ mile by Lady parish, is
on all other sides surrounded by the sea. Cross, which
forms the south-western section, terminates in a dismal
moor of 200 acres, separating it from Bukness. Well
sheltered by Eday from westerly winds, it presents a
diversified surface, which rises at two points to more
than 300 feet above sea-level, and breaks down, at one
of its heights, in a coast precipice perforated by curious
caverns ; a considerable lake is occasionally visited by
flocks of wild swans. Burness, separated on the E from
the greater part of Lady parish by Otterswick Bay, has
flat shores and a verdant fertile surface. The rocks are
sandstone, sandstone flag, and a little limestone. The
neiglibouring sea-waters produce enormous quantities of
shell-fish. This parish is in the presbytery of North
Isles and s)mod of Orkney ; the living is worth £245.
There are two parish churches. Cross, with 248 sittings,
and Burness with 262. In May 1880, in making ex-
cavations for the foundations of an addition to the
manse, it was discovered that the old building, lately
demolished, had been standing on the ruins of an ancient
broch. For schools and population see Sanday.
Crossbasket, an estate, with a mansion, in the NE
corner of East Kilbride parish, Lanarkshire, f mile W
by S of High Blantyre station.
Crossbost, a hamlet in Lochs parish, Lewis island,
Outer Hebrides, Ross-shire, on the northern shore of
salt-water Loch Luirbost, 9 miles SSW of Stornoway,
imder which it has a post office. Near it are a new
Free church (1881), and Luirbost public schooL
Crosschain Hill. See Fala.
Crossfield Hill. See Unst.
Crossford, a village in the N of Lcsmahago parish,
Lanarkshire, near the left bank of the Clyde, imme-
diately above the Nethan's influx, 4^ miles NW by W
of Lanark, under which it has a post office. At it are
Free and U. P. churches; and near it are the ruins of
Ckaignethan. ' In 1686,' saj's honest Patrick Walker,
' many people gathered together about Crossford, where
there were showers of bonnets, hats, guns, and swords,
which covered the trees and ground ; companies of men in
arms marching along the water side ; coni[)anies meeting
comjianies all through other, and then all falling to the
ground, and disap])earing, and other companies appear-
ing the same way. I went there three afternoons
together, and, as I could observe, there were two of the
people that were together saw, and a third that saw not ;
and though I could see nothing, yet there was such a
fright and trembling upon those that did see, that was
discernible to all from those that saw not,' etc. (Cham-
bers's Domestic Annals, ii. 485). Pop. (1841) 431,
(1861) 530, (1871) 543, (1881) 816.— O^t^. Sur., sh. 23,
1865.
Crossford, a village, with a public school, in Dunferm-
line parish, Fife, Ih mile WSAV of Dunferndine town.
Crossford. See Glencaiiix, Dumfriesshire.
Crossgatehall, a hamlet in Inveresk parish, Edin-
burghshire, 2 miles SSE of Inveresk station.
Crossgates, a village on the inutual border of Dun-
fermline and Dalgety parishes, Fife, with a station on
the North ]'>ritish railway, 3^ miles ENE of Dunferm-
line. Inhabited chiefly by colliers, it is surrounded at
near distances by extensive coal mines ; adjoins lines of
mineral railway, communicating with St David's har-
bour on Inverkeithing Bay ; and has a post office, with
CROSSGATES
CROSSPOL
money order, savings' bank, and telegraph departments,
2 hotels, a U.P. church (1802; 531 sittings), and a
public school, -which, with accommodation for 160
children, had (ISSO) an average attendance of 124, and
a grant of £91, 2s. Pop. (1841) 646, (1861) 1115, (1871)
1181, (1881) 1215.
Crossgates, a hamlet on the "W border'of Cults parish,
Fife, 3 furlongs SW of Pitlessie.
Crossgellioch, a wild mossy moor in Carsphairn
parish, N Kirkcudbrightshire. Three Covenanters, plain
country men, when returning from a conventicle in the
vicinity, in the winter of 1684, were met here by Claver-
house and a party of his men, and were summarily shot.
Their bodies were bm-ied on the moor ; and, at a recent
period, were found embalmed in the moss, ' shrouded in
their hosen, in their coats, and in their bonnets, exactly
as they fell.'
Crossgills, a hamlet in Ruthwell parish, S Dum-
friesshire, 3 furlongs NW of Ruthwell station.
Crosshall, a colliery village in the SW of Polmont
parish, Stirlingshire, 2^ miles SSE of Falkirk.
Crosshall, an ancient monument in Eccles parish, Ber-
%vickshire, 1 mile N of Eccles village. It comprises a
monolithic sandstone pedestal, 9 feet square and 2^ high,
and a monolithic sandstone column, rising fully 10 feet
from the pedestal, through which it passes deep into
the ground, and carved in its N and S faces with curious
sculptures. It is thought by some antiquaries to have
been raised to the memory of a Percy of Northumberland,
by others to have been erected after the second crusade,
in the latter half of the 12th century, to the memory of
the father of Sir John de Soulis. The place where it
stands was formerly called Deadriggs, and is tradition-
ally said to have been the scene of a bloody battle.
Crosshands, a village, with a public school, in Mauch-
line parish, Ayrshire, 2 miles KNW of Mauchline
village.
Crosshill, a village in Kirkmichael parish, AjTshire,
and a quoad sacra jjarish partly also in Kirkoswald and
Maybole parishes. The village stands on the left bank
of Girvan Water, 3 miles SE of Maybole, and 2S NE of
Kilkerran station. Chiefly consisting of a long regular
street of one-story houses, running at right angles from
the river, it has a post office under Maybole, with
money order and savings' bank departments, a principal
inn, an Established chui'ch (1838), a Free chui'ch, and a
school. The quoaA sacra parish, constituted in 1853, is
in the presbytery of Ayr and s}'nod of Glasgow and
Ayr ; its two public schools, Crossbill and Kilkerran
Hillside, with respective accommodation for 270 and
61 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 159
and 52, and grants of £125, 14s. and £39, 3s. Pop.
of village (1841) 116-3, (1861) 1107, (1871) 835, (ISSl)
740 ; of?, s. palish (1871) 1372, (1881) 1284, of whom
1006 were in Kirkmichael. — Orel. Sur., sh. 14, 1863.
Crosshill, a south-eastern outbreak of Baillieston
village, in Old Monkland parish, Lanarkshire.
Crosshill. See Govanhill.
Crosshill. See Strathave^.
Crosshouse, a village in Kilmaurs parish, Ayrshire,
on Carmel Water, 2^ miles W of Kilmarnock, and 1
mile SSAV of Crosshouse station. At it is the handsome
Established church (1882 ; 450 sittings) of a quoad
sacra parish, formed out of Kilmaurs and Dreghorn, and
also a public school. Coal has long been wrought in the
vicinity, and ironstone during the last 12 or 13 years.
Pop. of village (1861) 468, (1871) 713, (1881) 631 ; of
q. s. parish (1881) 2424.
Crosshouses, a hamlet in Kettle parish, Fife, 2 miles
SE by E of Kettle village.
Cross Isle, a small island in Dunrossness parish,
Shetland, off the mouth of Quendal Bay, 3^ mUes WNW
of Sunburgh Head.
Crosskirk, a place on the SW coast of Westray
Island, Orkney, distant 1 mile from Westray manse.
A pre-Reformation church here was used by Presby-
terians till about 1776, and then became ruinous ; its
ancient burjing-ground is still in use.
Crosslee, a hamlet in Stow parish, Edinburghshire,
on the south-eastern verge of the county, near Gala
Water and Bowland station, 3 miles S of Stow village,
under which it has a post office.
Crosslee, a village in Houston parish, Renfrewshire,
on the left bank of the Gryfe, 2^ miles NW of John-
stone station. A cotton mill, built here in 1793, was
burned down about 1858 ; and the villagers now are
mainly employed in the neighbouring oil-works of
Clippens. Pop. (1861) 383, (1871) 379, (1881) 400.
Crossmichael, a village and a parish of central Kirk-
cudbrightsliire. The village, pleasantly-seated on the
left bank of the lake-like Dee, with a station upon the
Glasgow and South-Western, 3| miles NW of Castle-
Douglas, has an inn and a post office ; but its cross, St
Michael's, round which was held a Michaelmas fair, has
long since disappeared.
Containing also Clarebrand hamlet and a north-
western outskirt of Castle -Douglas, the parish is
bounded NE by Kirkpatrick-Durham and Urr, SE by
Buittle, S by Kelton, SW by Balmaghie, and NW by
Parton. Its utmost length, from NAV to SE, is 5g miles ;
its breadth, from NE to SW, varies between 2f and 4|
miles ; and its area is 10,148J acres, of which 220J are
water. The Dee winds 44 miles south-south-eastward
along all the boundary with Balmaghie, Urr Water
4| along that with Kirkpatrick-Dm-ham and Urr ; and
in the interior are Lochs Culgruft (2x1 furl.), Erncrogo
(3 X li), RoAX (3i X 2g), and Smaddy (1 x f ), with three
or four tinier lakelets. The surface, which sinks along
the Dee to less than 200, and along Urr Water to less
than 100, feet above sea-level, has a general north-
north-westerly rise, being studded by a number of low
eminences, and culminating at 711 feet on the western
shore of Loch Roan. The rocks are chiefly Silurian ;
and the soils of the arable lands, along the streams and
among the hills, which in places are cultivated up to
the top, are extremely various, including fine alluvium
and rich loam, -with some tilly clay, but chiefly present-
ing a sandy character. Near Glenlochar Bridge stood
an abbey, whose history is utterly lost ; and of six moats,
the largest and best-defined is that of Crofts, which
rises in several stages to a round grassy plat, 280 feet in
diameter, and commands a beautiful prospect. Weapons
and urns, supposed to be Roman, have been found ; and
a cau-n at Blackerne yielded in 1 756 a silver ring and an
amber bead, now in the Edinburgh Antiquarian iluseum.
Mansions are Greenlaw, Glenlochar Lodge, Danevale
Park, MoUance, and Ernespie ; and 10 proprietors hold
each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 17 of be-
tween £100 and £500, 2 of from £50 to £100, and 7 of
from £20 to £50. Crossmichael is in the presbji;ery of
Kirkcudbright and synod of Galloway ; the living is
worth £339. The parish church, at the hamlet, was
built in 1751, and contains 650 sittings ; in the grave-
yard is a tombstone to ' William Graham, shot dead by
a party of Claverhouse's troop, for his adherence to
Scotland's Reformation Covenants, 1682.' There is also
a U.P. church, near Castle-Douglas; and two public
schools, Crossmichael and Clarebrand, with respective
accommodation for 200 and 100 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 89 and 79, and grants of £96,
Is. 6d. and £88. 7s. 6d. Valuation (1860) £10,725,
(1882) £15,024, '4s. lOd. Pop. (1801) 1084, (1831)
1325, (1861) 1536, (1871) 1492, (1881) lZi3.—0rd.
Sur., sh. 5, 1857.
Crossmill. See Corsemill.
Crossmyloof, a village in the NW comer of Cathcart
parish, Renfrewshire, 1 mile NE of Pollokshaws, and
1^ SSW of Glasgow, under which it has a post and
telegraph office. At it are a public school, an Established
mission station, and an extensive bakery, started in
1847. At a council of war here, according to a popular
myth, Queen Mary, on the morning of the battle of
Langside, laid a small crucifix on her hand, saying, 'As
surely as that cross lies on my loof, I will this day
fight the Regent,'— hence the name Orossmyloof. Pop.
(1841) 587, (1861) 939, (1871) 988, (1881) 1195.
Crosspol, a bay in the S of Coll island, Argyllshire.
It measures 2 miles across, but lies exposed to tlie S and
313
CROSSRAGUEL
the SW, and is profusely studded with sunken rocks.
A sandy beach, about a mile long, fringes it on tlie N,
and is the chief feature of its kind in Coll.
Crossraguel, a ruined Clngniac abbey in Kirkoswald
parish, Ayrshire, 2 miles SW of Maybole. It seems to
have derived its name (Lat. CmxRcjaJis, 'king's cross')
from a cross of St Oswald, King of Xorthumbria {oh.
643), but itself was dedicated to the Virgin ]\Iary, and
was founded about 1240 by Duncan, first Earl of Car-
rick, for Clugniacs of Paisley, from which it was made
exempt in 1244. The last of its abbots, Queutin
Kennedy, in 1562 held a famous dispute with John
Knox at ]\laybole ; he died in 1564, when a pension of
£500 a year'was conferred upon George Buchanan out
of the abbey's revenues. Their bulk was granted to
AllanStewart, who, as commendatorvisitingthebounds of
Crossraguel in 1570, was pouncedon by Quentin'suephew,
Gilbert, fourth Earl of Cassillis, and carried olf to the sea-
castle of DuNTRE, there, in the Black Vault, to be
' roasted in sop ' until he consented to subscribe ' a five-
year tack and a nineteen-year tack and a charter of feu of
all the lands of Crossraguel, with all the clauses necessar
for the great King of Carrick to haste him to hell ' (Cham-
bers's Dom. Ann., i. 65-67). To the Earl's desire, how-
ever, to turn it to his own account we probably owe the
partial preservation of the abbey. Its ruins. Second
Pointed in style, comprise some portions of the domestic
buildings on the S side, the walls of the church, and
the square chapter-house, with high arched roof upborne
by a clustered pillar. The roofless church is a narrow
aisleless oblong, measuring internally 160 by 25 feet, and
divided nearly midway by a gabled wall, containing a
doorway. The choir ends in a three-sided ap.se, and
retains an aumbry, sedilia, and an altar tomb. See
vol. iL of Grose's Antiquities of Scotland (1791), and
vol. i. of Billings' Baronial and Ecclesiastical Antiquities
(1S45).
Crossroads. See Grange, Banffshire.
Crossroads. See Dreguoex, Ayrshire.
Croulin Isles, a group of islets in Applecross parish,
Ross-shire, off the N side of the entrance of Loch Carron.
Croulinmore, the largest of them, is 1 mile long.
Crovie, a fishing village in Gamrie parish, NE Banff-
shire, on the E side of Gamrie Bay, 1 mile NE of Gar-
denstown. Supposed to have been founded early in the
ISth century, it stands in a rocky ravine, which is
traversed by a brook ; and it presents the gable end of
its houses to the sea, the other end to a bank of the
ravine. Pop. (1881) 258.
Crowbutt, a hamlet in Chirnside parish, Berwickshire,
1 mile NE of Chirnside village.
Crowlista. See Uig.
Croy, a station in the W of Cumbernauld parish,
Dumbartonshire, on the Edinburgh and Glasgow section
of the North British, Ig mile SSE of Kilsyth, and 11 J
miles NE of Glasgow.
Croy, a hamlet on the NE border of Inverness-shire,
and a parish partly also in Nairnshire. The hamlet lies
8 miles SW of Nairn and 3 S of Fort George station,
which is lOi miles NE of Inverness, and under which
it has a post office.
The ])arish, containing also Clephanton village, 6^
miles SW of Nairn, comprises the ancient parishes of
Croy and Dalcross, united in the latter part of the 15th
century. Bounded N by Nairn parish, E by Cawdor,
S by Aloy and Daviot, and NW by Daviot and Petty,
it has an utmost length, from NNE to SSW, of 10^ miles ;
a varj-ing width of 1^ and 4§ jniles ; and a land area of
22,779 acres. This last includes the Leys or .south-
western division, which, severed from the main body by
a .strip (5 furlongs wide at the narrowest) of Daviot, is
on all other sides surrounded by Inverness, its greatest
length and breadth being 6J and IJ miles. The river
Naiun winds 122 miles north-eastward along the bor-
ders and through the interior of the main portion, from
just below Daviot House to just above Kosi'lif Id ; the
Loch of the Clans (2 x 1 furl.) lies in the northern ex-
tremity, and on the Petty boundary is Loch Flcmington
(4A X If furl.). The beautiful strath of the Nairn here
314
CRUDEN
sinks from 400 to 100 feet al)ove sea-level ; but the sur-
face generally is flat and forbidding in aspect, including
the wide bleak moors of Clava and Culloden, and only
in the south-eastern corner rising steeply to 1000 feet
on Saddle Hill, 1027 on Creagan Glas, and 1787 on
Beinn Buidhe JIhor. The rocks are variously granite,
gneiss. Old Red sandstone, unconsolidated drift, and
liassic limestone, the last of which has been calcined for
economic purposes. The soil in the eastern division is
of all descriptions, so interspersed with one another that
scarcely two continuous acres can be found of the same
quality ; that of the western is also various, but forms,
on the whole, a fine mixture of clay black land and
sandy or gravelly materiah Great improvements have
been effected since 1845, hundreds of acres that once
were barren moor having either been planted or brought
under the plough. A remarkable ancient Caledonian
monument, comprising two concentric circles of large
stones, two large slabs within the inner circle, and a
huge upright of conglomerate a few feet W of the outer,
crowns a round gravel mound on the NW border of the
parish ; and remains of crannoges or ancient lake-dwell-
ings, formed of alternate strata of stones, earth, and oak,
and resting on oaken piles strongly fixed by transverse
beams, were discovered at the draining of a lake in the
eastern end of the parish. The Stones of Clava are
separately noticed, as likewise are the battlefield of
Culloden, the ruins of Dalcross Castle, and the four
mansions, Cantray House, Holme Rose, Kilravock Castle,
and Le3'S Castle. Seven proprietors hold each an annual
value of more, and five of less, than £500. Croy is in the
presbytery of Nairn and synod of Moray ; the living is
worth £384. The parish church, at the hamlet, was
built in 1767, and contains 527 sittings ; a Free church
stands 1 mile to the SSW. Two schools, Clava and
Croy, with respective accommodation for 100 and 150
children, had (1880) an average attendance of 32 and
129, and grants of £36, 10s. and £129, 3s. 6d. Valua-
tion (1880) £10,399, 19s. 2d., of which £3699, Is. 6d.
was in Nairnshire. Pop. (1801) 1601, (1831) 1664,
(1861) 1873, (1871) 1841, (1881) 1709.— Oni Sur., sh.
84, 1876.
Cruach or Stob na Cruaich, a mountain (2420 feet)
on the NW border of Perthshire, culminating If mile
NW of Loch Laidon.
Cruachan. See Ben Gritachan.
Cruachlussa (Gaeh 'mountain of plants'). See
Knapdale, NonTii.
Crucifield. See Unst.
Cruden {c7vju or crush Dane, according to the popular
etymology), a coast parish of Buchan, NE Aberdeen-
shire, with a post office of its own name at Auchiries
hamlet. Si miles SSW of Peterhead, and 9| NE of its
station and post-town, Ellon, with which it communicates
daily by coach. It is bounded NW by Longside, NE
by Peterhead, E by the German Ocean, S by Slains and
Logie-Buchan, SWand W by Ellon. Its utmost length,
from E to W, is 7^ miles ; its breadth, from N to S, varies
between 2J and 6^ miles; and its area is 18,444J^ acres,
of which 164^ are foreshore and 14 water. Except
for 2 miles of sands at Cruden Bay, the coast-line,
7^ miles long, is fringed with a range of stupendous
cliffs, projecting the headlands of Hare Craig, Jlurdoch
Head, and Wardhill, and indented by Long Haven,
Yoag's Haven, North Plaven, the Bullers of Buchan,
Robie's Haven, and Twa Havens, whilst off them lie
Dunbuy islet ami a long sunken reef, the Scares of
Cruden. The clifls to the S, 100 feet high, consist of
greenstone or basalt ; and those to the N, at j)oints
attaining 200 feet, of reddish granite, with trap-dykes
on the l')lackhill. Inland the general surface sinks little
below 100, ami little exceeds 200, feet above sea-level ;
but rises to 281 at the Hill of Ardilfery, 354 at the Hill
of Auquharney, 447 at the Corse of Balloch, 346 at Hill-
side of Aldie, and 374 near Newtown, the three last close
to the Longside border. Cruden Water, rising just
within Longside, winds 11 miles east-l>y-southward to
the northern corner of Cruden Bay, dividing the parish
into two nearly equal parts, and receiving the burns of
CRUGGLETON
Lacca and Gask ; its current has been utilised to drive
a wool-mill at Auquhaniey and several meal-mills lower
down. Great quantities of peat-moss lie along the
northern boundary ; and forests of oak and other hard-
wood trees anciently occupied much of the area, luit now
are represented only by a few old trees, dwarfed by the
sea-breeze that has stunted the clumps and plantations
of Slains and Auquhamey. Granite and trap are the
prevailing rocks ; and the former has been quaiTied
along the northern cliffs, under great disadvantages of
both' working and transport. The neighbouring waters
teem with fish ; and at a cost of £3000 a new harbour
has recently been formed at the village of Poet Erroll,
where Cruden Water falls into the bay ; it consists of
an outer and an inner basin, the latter 5400 square
yards in area. On the plain skirting Cruden Bay
Malcolm II. of Scotland is said to have defeated Canute,
afterwards King of England, in 1014 ; but the battle is
one of those which, in Dr Hill Burton's words, ' only
find a local habitation and a name, along with the
usual details, from late and questionable authority.'
A mound, evidently artificial, and popularly called the
Battery, cro^\-ns a height to the N of the Hawklaw, and
to the SE of that mound are remains of what seems to
have been a vitrified wall. Another artificial mound,
the Moathill, a seat most probably of feudal justice, and
an eminence, called Gallowhill, where criminals were
executed, are on Ardiffery farm ; whilst Highlaw, 1 mile
from the coast, is cro^vned by a tumulus, said to have
been used for beacon fires, and commanding a fine view
over the low surrounding country, away to the Gram-
pians. A 'Druidical circle,' J mUe W of the parish
church, was demolished in 1831 ; a necklace of jet and
amber, three stone cists, flint implements, a rude old
granite font, and other relics of antiquity, have been
from time to time discovered ; and the Bishop's Bridge
over Cruden "Water, near the church, was built in
1697 by the Right Rev. Dr Jas. Drummond of Brechin,
and widened by the Earl of Erroll in 1763. Slaixs
Castle, however, is the chief artificial feature in the
parish, where 8 proprietors hold each an annual value
of £500 and upwards, 4 of between £100 and £500, and
3 of from £20 to £50. Giving off portions to Ardallie,
Blackhill, and Boddam qiwad sacra parishes, Cruden is
in the presbytery of Ellon and sjmod of Aberdeen ; the
living is worth £800. The parish church, on the right
bank of Cruden Water, 1 mile SSW of Auchiries, was
built in 1776, and enlarged in 1834, when two round
towers were added ; it contains 820 sittings, and has
a church-hall beside it. At Hatton, If mile WXW,
stands the Free church (1844) ; and | mile SSW is St
James's Episcopal church (1843 ; 440 sittings), which.
Early English in style, has a nave and chancel, a spire
90 feet high, an organ, and three stained-glass windows.
Of St Olave's or Glaus' chapel, near the New Bridge,
said to have been founded by Canute, the last remains
were carried away for road-metal in 1837. Errol Epis-
copal school and the public schools of Auchiries, Bog-
brae, Coldwells, and Hatton, with respective accommo-
dation for 140, 102, 68, 90, and 150 children, had (1880)
an average attendance of 87, 78, 72, 100, and 108, and
grants of £50, 13s., £61, 18s., £54, £72, 16s., and
£92, 3s. Valuation (1843) £8792, (1881) £16,072, 13s.
6d. Pop. (1801) 1934, (1831) 2120, (1861) 2743, (1871)
3124, (1831) ?AU.—Ord. Sur., sh. 87, 1876.
Cruggleton, an ancient coast parish of SE Wigtown-
shire, united in the middle of the 17th century to Kirk-
madrine and Sorbie, and now forming the south-eastern
section of the present Sorbie. Its ruined Norman church,
3 miles S of Garliesto\vn, belonged to Whithorn priory,
and, consisting of nave and chancel, measures 67^ by 30
feet. Cruggleton Castle, 3 furlongs to the E, stoocl on
a bold rocky headland, over 100 feet high, mid-way
between Rigg or Cruggleton Bay and Port Allan. Sup-
posed to have been built by Nor.semen, it was long
the seat of the Irish M'Kerlies; is .said to have been
captured by both Edward I. and Wallace ; and after
passing through many hands, came eventually to the
Agnews. It is now represented by only an arch, the
CUILLIE
foundations of some walls, and distinct traces of a
fosse.
Cruicksfield, an estate, with a mansion, in the S of
Bunkle parish, Berwickshire, 4 miles NE of Dunse.
Cruick Water, a sti-eara of NE Forfarshire, rising at
the northern extremity of Fearn parish, and running
15| miles south-south-eastward and east-north-eastward
through Fearn, Menmuir, and Stracathro, till it falls
into the North Esk, 5 furlongs E of Stracathro church.
A capital trouting stream, but possessed of little beauty,
it descends from 1480 to 118 feet above sea-level, and
becomes after heavy rains a voluminous and furious
toiTent, though dwindling to a mere rill in time of
drought.— Oat;. Sur., sh. 57, 1868.
Cruikston. See Crookston.
Cruin. See Ixchcruin.
Cruister, a hamlet near Sandwick, in Dunrossness
parish, Shetland.
Cruivie, a ruined square tower on the lands of Straiton,
in Logic parish, NE Fife, 2| miles NNE of Logie
church.
Crummag Head, See Cramjiag.
Crutherland, an estate, with a mansion, in Glasford
parish, Lanarkshire, on the right bank of Calder Water,
2f miles SE of East Kilbride.
Cryston. See Chrtstox.
Cuan, a narrow sound separating Luing island from
Seil island, in KUbrandon and KUchattan parish, Argyll-
shire. It has a very strong current, running at the rate
of 7 or 8 miles an hour ; and, in consequence of the
church standing near it, gives name popularly to the
parish.
CuchuUins or Coolins, a group of savagely picturesque
mountains in Bracadale and Strath parishes, Isle of
Skye, Inverness-shire. Rising from the sea-shore to the
E of Loch Brittle and N of Loch Scavaig, and extending
north-eastward to Glen Sligachan, eastward to the valley
of Strath, they occupy an area of about 35 square miles,
and are a confused assemblage of barren heights, from
2000 to 3000 feet high, distinguishable, by striking
differences in outline, feature, and colouring, into two
great sections. The southern and larger of these con-
sists of smooth, conoidal masses, that rise from a
labyrinth of low ground — each separate from its fellow,
nearly all streaked from summit to base with broad
reddish sheets of dihris, and many of them abrupt,
acclivitous, and rounded like vast bare cones. The
northern section, on the other hand, consists of singularly
rugged and sen-ated ranges and masses of mountains,
intersected by wild ravines, and shooting up in sharp
and jagged peaks. It is mainly formed of hypersthene,
whose dark metallic aspect is relieved by scarce one
blade of vegetation ; and, strongly attracting rain-clouds
from the ocean, it often is lashed with storms. Always,
even amid the blaze of summer sunshine, a region of
desolation, without any play of colours, it looks under a
■WT-eathiug of clouds to be little else than an assemblage
of deep and horrible abysses, which the eye vainly en-
deavours to penetrate ; dark Loch Coruisk lies in its
very core. The loftiest peak is Scuir-na-Gillean (3183
feet), 4i mUes S of Sligachan inn ; and six other summits
are estimated to exceed 3000 feet above sea-leveh See
chaps. V. and vi. of Alexander Smith's Summer in Skye
(1865).
Cuckold-Le-Roi. See Cocklerue.
Cuen or Loch nan Cuinne. See Baden.
Cuff Hill. See Beith, Ayrshire.
Cuil, a bay in Appin, Argyllshire, opening fi-om Loch
Linnhe, 4.^ miles NE of Shuna island. With a semi-
circular outline, on a chord of 1;^ mile, it is engirt with
a fine sandy beach, receives the river Duror, and is
often frequented by large shoals of herrings.— Ore?. Sur.,
sh. 53, 1877.
Cuilhill, a village in Old Jlonkland parish, Lanark-
shire, 2 miles AV of Coatbridge.
Cuillie or Culaidh, a loch in the upper part of Kildonan
parish, Sutherland, 2i miles SSW of Forsinard station.
Rudely triangular in shape, it has an utmost length of
3 and 2 furlongs, and teems with trout.
315
CUILTRANNICH
Cuiltrannich, a hamlet in Kenmore parish, Perth-
shire, luar the north-western shore of Loch Tay, 9 miles
NE of Killin.
Cuilunum Moss, a hamlet in Port of Monteith parish,
S\V Perthshire, 1| mile WNW of Port of Monteith
station.
Culag, a rivulet of Assynt parish, SW Sutherland,
issuing from a lochlet 2 miles SE of the summit of
Canisp, and thence running 8 miles west-north-westward
to the head of Loch Inver, at Culag Hotel It expands
in its course into a series of eight or nine small lakes,
which teem with trout, and in which, too, sea-trout and
grilse are sometimes taken. — Ord. Sur., sh. 107, 1881.
Culbin, a sandy desert on the southern coast of the
Moray Firth, extending across the entire breadth of
Dyke and Moy parish, Elginshire, into Kinloss parish,
Elginshire, and Auldearn parish, Nairnshire. Compris-
ing some 9500 acres of what was once the very garden
of Jloray, it began to be overwhelmed with sand as far
back as 1100, according to Boece ; but the barony itself
of Culbin was not destroyed till 1670-95, ' the which
was mainly occasioned by the pulling up by the roots of
bent, juniper, and broom bushes, which did loose and
break the surface and scroof of the sand-hills.' Now all
is covered with sand or sand-hills, to a depth in places
of 100 feet. The worst jiarts lie immediately west of
the lagoon and mouth of the Findhorn river, and these
underwent so great a change as to shift the river's mouth
nearly 2 miles eastward, and to overwhelm the ancient
town and harbour of Findhorn. — Ord. Sur., shs. 84, 94,
1876-78. See vol. iii., pp. 119, 120, of Chambers's
Domestic Annals of Scotland (1861).
Culblean, a hill range in tlie E of the Tullich section
of Glenmuick parish, SW Aberdeenshire, 4 miles NE
of Ballater. Extending about 5 miles south-by-eastward
from Morven Hill to the vicinity of the Dee, it has an
altitude of 1750 feet above sea-level, and at its southern
end contains the curious natural excavation called the
Vat. Here, on 30 Nov. 1335, the Scottish regent, Andrew
Murray of Bothwell, defeated David, thirteenth Earl
of Athole, who, setting his back to a rock, said it should
flee as soon as he, and so fell, with many of his 3000
followers.
Culbockie, a village in Urquhart and Logie-Wester
parish, Koss-shire, 9 miles ENE of Dingwall, under
which it has a post office. At it stands a public school ;
and fairs are held here on the fourth Wednesday of
April, the first Wednesday of July, the last Wednesday
of October, and the second Wednesday of December.
Culbumie. See Kiltarlity.
Culchary, See Cawdor.
Culcreuch, an estate, with a mansion, in Fin try parish,
Stirlingshire. The mansion, standing 1^ mile NNW
of Fintry village and 5 miles E by S of Balfron, is a fine
edifice, with beautiful grounds. Its present owner is
Sir Geo. Home-Speirs, tenth Bart, since 1671 (b. 1832 ;
sue. 1849), who in 1858 married the niece and heiress of
the late Alex. G. Speirs, Esq. of Culcreuch, and who
holds 7172 acres in the shire, valued at £2098 per
annum. A large cotton factory, 5 furlongs SW of the
mansion, near Newtown village, was erected by the pro-
prietor of the estate about 1796.
Culdees Castle, a mansion in Muthill parish, Pertli-
shire, standing on a commanding site, amid a fine })ark
near the left bank of Machany Water, ^ mile WSW of
Muthill station, and 4J miles SSE of Crieff. Its owner,
Rt. Thos. Napier Speir of Burnbrae, holds 1619 acres
in I'ertlishire, valued at £1972 per annum.
Culduthel, a hamlet, with a public school, in the
parisli of Inverness, 3 miles S by E of Inverness town,
under which it has a post oHice.
Culhom House, a seat of tlie Earl of Stair in Stranraer
parish, Wigtowiisliire, 1^ mile SE of Stranraer town.
Jiuilt for a barracks, it is a large clumsy brick edifice,
but stands amid iinely-wooded policies.
Culkein. See Assynt.
Cullalo Hills. See Aberdoue and Aucutertool,
Fife.
Cullean. See Colzean.
.316
CULLEN
CuUen, a coast town and parish of Banffshire. A
seaport and royal and parliamentary burgh, tlie town is
situated on Cullen Bay, at the mouth of the Burn of
Deskford, 5| miles W by N of Portsoy station, with
which it communicates thrice a day by omnibus, and
which is 21 miles NNW of Tillynaught Junction, 8f W
by N of Banft', 18 NNE of Grange Junction, and 61|
NW of Aberdeen. Its mean-looking Old Town, stand-
ing a little inland, about the year 1822 was utterly
demolished, to make way for improvements at Cullen
House ; a somewhat ancient part, called Fishertown or
Seatown, on the shore, has a very irregular appearance,
and is inhabited chiefly by fisher-folk. Close to the
eastern extremity of Seatown, but on much higher
ground, is the New Town, which, built in 1822 and
subsequent years in lieu of the demolished Old To^vn,
presents a regular and pleasant aspect, with its open
market-place and its three streets, respectively 300,
400, and 550 yards long, and which at first was planned
to be fully double its existing size. It enjoys the most
charming environs, in the sweep of its crescent bay, in
the rocky grandeur of the neighbouring coast, and in the
lawns and woods of Cullen House, away to the conical
Bin Hill of Cullen (1050 feet), 2| miles to the SW.
At the town itself are a post office, under Fochabers,
with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph depart-
ments, branches of the Union and North of Scotland
Banks, 6 insurance agencies, gas-works, a public library,
a news-room, and 3 hotels, to one of which, built in
1829, a town-hall is conjoined, with council, court, and
ball rooms. The cruciform parish church, St Slary's,
5 furlongs SSW of the town, was founded by King
Robert I., and made collegiate in 1543 for a provost, 6
prebendaries, and 2 singing boys, by Sir Alexander
Ogilvie of Deskford, whose recumbent effigy surmounts
a large and richly-ornamented tomb in a mural recess ;
as enlarged by an aisle about 1798, it contains 800
sittings. Other places of worship are Seafield chapel of
ease (1839 ; 450 sittings), a Free church, and an Inde-
pendent chapel ; whilst a public school, with accommo-
dation for 300 children, had (1880) an average attendance
of 348, and a gi-ant of £329, 4s. In the cemetery is a
grey granite obelisk, 14 feet high, erected in 1876 to the
memory of Provost Smith. The Castlehill, an eminence
overhanging the sea, is cro^vned by remains of an ancient
fort, whence vitrified stones have been extracted ; but
whether this is the royal castle where died Elizabeth,
the Bruce's queen, or whether it stood nearer Cullen
House, is doubtful. The eminent physician, Sir James
Clark, Bart. (1788-1870), was a native of Cullen. Its
harbour was formed in 1817, and enlarged in 1834, by
tlie Earl of Seafield, at a cost of more than £10,000.
With a depth at
the pier-head of 8^
feet at neap, and
of 12 at .'ipring
tides, it is one of
the best artificial
havens in the
Moray Firth. The
chief imports are
coals, salt, and
staves ; and ex-
ports are herrings,
dried fish, oats,
potatoes, and tim-
ber. The catching
and curing of fish
is the staple in-
dustry ; and there
are also a boat-
building yard, a rope and sail works, a woollen factory, and
a brewerv. Fairs for cattle and horses are held on the
third Friday of May and the first Friday of November.
Dating its burgh privileges from the reign of William
the Lyon (1105-1214), Cullen is governed by a provost.
2 bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, a billet master,
and 6 other councillors ; with Elgin, Banff, Macduff,
Peterhead, Kintore, and Inverurie, it returns a member
Seal of Cullen.
CULLENOCH
CULLODEN
to parliament. Its parliamentary and municipal con-
stituency numbered 322 in 1882, when the burgh
valuation amounted to £3615, whilst the corporation
revenue was £67. Pop. (1841) 142-3, (1851) 1697, (1861)
1821, (1871) 2056, (1881) 2033.
The parish of Cullen, triancfular in shape, is bounded
N by the Moray Firth, E "by Fordyce, and SW by
Rathven. Its utmost lengtli, "from N to S, is If mile ;
its utmost width, from E to W, is 1^ mile ; and its
area is 925 acres, of which 38| are foreshore, and
15 water. The coast-line, IJ mile long, presents a
bold rocky front to the Bay of Cullen, which is 2|
miles wide across a chord drawn from Scar Nose to
Logic Head, and which from that chord measures 7
furlongs to its innermost recess. Three singular masses
of rock here have been named the Three Kings of Cullen,
most likely after the Magi, or Three Kings of Cologne —
Caspar, Melchior, and Balthazar — whose skulls are sho\vn
in the cathedral there. The deep-channelled Burn of
Deskford, other'wise known as Cullen AVater (Gael, cul-an,
' back-lying water'), flows 2^ miles north-north-westward
along all the Rathven border ; and the surface attains
143 feet above sea-level at the cemetery, and 211 towards
the centre. A bed of stratified quartz, reposing conform-
ably on a thick stratum of compact greywacke, underlies
all the parish ; Old Red sandstone forms two of the Three
Kings, ^ mile W of which are two patches of New
Red sandstone, on disrupted greywacke and beneath
beds of drift ; and in the S is fine lias clay, well
marked by lias fossils. The soil near the shore is
a mixture of sand and gravel, and elsewhere ranges from
strong clay or light loam to a fine rich loam incumbent
on a soft clay bottom. Cullen House, near the parish
church, is a huge pile erected at various periods ; the
whole, as remodelled and enlarged in 1861 by the late
Mr David Bryce, is a noble specimen of Scottish Baronial
architecture. It crowns a steep rock on the right bank
of the Buru of Deskford, across which a one-arch bridge
of 82 feet span leads to the grounds and park, which,
beautiful with streams and lakelets, trim lawns and
stately groves, extend far into Rathven parish, and
among whose adornments is a graceful temple, com-
manding a splendid view over the neighbouring sea.
The house itself is rich in works of art ; and its charter-
room contains a valuable series of documents, extending
back three centuries from 1705. Sir Walter Ogilvie,
Knight, of Auchleven, younger brother of that Sir John
Ogilvie who received a grant of the castle of Airlie,
towards the middle of the 15th century married Mar-
garet, sole daughter and heiress of Sir John Sinclair of
Deskford and Findlater, and thereby acquired the said
estates. His seventh descendant was in 1638 created
Earl of Findlater. That title expired with James,
seventh Earl, in 1811 ; and Cullen now is held by Ian
Charles Grant-Ogilvie, eighth Earl of Seafield since 1701
(b. 1851 ; sue. 1881), who owns 48,946 acres in Banffshire,
valued at£34, 260 per annum. (See also Castle-Grant.)
Three lesser proprietors hold each an annual value of
from £50 to £100, and 23 of from £20 to £50. Cullen
is in the presb3'tery of Fordyce and synod of Aberdeen ;
the living is worth £226. Valuation, exclusive of burgh
(1882), £1217, 4s. lOd. Pop. of entire parish (1801)
1076, (1831)1593,(1861)1975,(1871)2215, (1881)2187.
Orel. Sur., sh. 96, 1876.
CuUenoch, the ancient name of Laurieston, a village
in Balmaghie parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, 6 miles WNW
of Castle-Douglas. It was the meeting-place of the
Kirkcudbrightshire war committee of the Covenanters,
constituted in 1640.
Cullen of Buchan. See Gamrie.
Cullen Park, a mansion in Avondale parish, Lanark-
shire, close to Strathaven.
Cullen Water. See Deskford, Burn of.
Cullerley. See Echt.
Cullicudden, a hamlet and an ancient parish in Reso-
lis parish, Ross-shire. The hamlet lies on the SE shore
of Cromarty Firth, 4| miles WSW of Invergordon, and
25^ N of Inverness ; at it are a public school and a post
office, with money order and savings' bank departments.
The parish, united to Kirkmichael subsequent to 1688,
now forms the western district of Resolis. A fragment
of its church is still standing. A quarry of sandstone
suited for many kinds of public buildings, and varying
in colour from red to deep yellow, has long been worked
in the vicinity of the hamlet.
CuUin. See CrcHVLLiN.
CuUisaid or Cuil na Sith, a loch in the SE of Tongue
parish, Sutherland. Lying 390 feet above sea-level, it
measures Ih furlongs by 1, and sends ofl' a stream 1§
mile east-north-eastward to the head of Loch Loyal.
CuUivoe, a hamlet and a bay in North Yell parish,
Shetland, 40 miles N of Lerwick, under wliich the
hamlet has a post and telegraph ofiice.
Culloden (Gael, cul-oitir, ' back-hnng coast-ridge '),
an estate and a battlefield on the NE verge of Inverness-
shire, in the parishes of Inverness, Croy, Daviot-Dun-
lichity, and Petty. Culloden House stands 1;^ mile SE
by S of Culloden station on the Highland railway, this
being close to the Firth of Beauly and 3| miles ENE of
Inverness. Backed by plantations, it commands a magni-
ficent view, and ' has been renewed in an elegant style '
since 1746, when our engraving shows it to have been a
plain four-storied edifice, with battlemented front and
central bell-turret. "Within it hang portraits of 'Grey'
Duncan Forbes (1572-1654), M.P. and provost of Inver-
ness, who bought the estate from the laird of M'Intosh
in 1626 ; of his great-grandson and namesake, the cele-
brated Lord President of the Court of Session(1685-1747) ;
and of many others of the line — 'a cluster,' Hill Burton
observes, ' of open, handsome, and ingenuous counte-
nances.' The present and tenth laird, also a Duncan
Forbes (b. 1851 ; sue. 1879), holds 5655 acres, valued
at £4553 per annum.
About If mile ESE of the mansion is the battlefield,
Ctilloden or Druramossie Muir, a broad, flat, sandstone
ridge that from 500 feet above sea-level sinks gently to
300 feet along the left bank of the river Nairn, across
which rise the steeper heights of Croy and Dalcross
parish— Saddle Hill (1000 feet), Creagan Glas (1027),
and Beinn Bhuidlie ]\Ihor (1797). Planting and culture
have somewhat changed its aspect, so that now it is but
an opening in a wooa, — an opening the size of a park of
6 or 8 acres, — traversed by a carriage road from Inver-
ness to Nairn, and studded with grassy mounds that
mark the graves of the slain. In the summer of 1881
these graves were cared for by the present proprietor,
one stone being inscribed ■with the names of the clans
M'Gillivray, M'Lean, and M'Lauchlan, whilst there are
separate stones for Clan Stewart of Appin, Clan Cameron,
and Clan M'Intosh, and two graves are marked 'Clans
mixed. ' Then on a new ' Great Cairn, ' CO feet in height,
a slab has been placed, s-ith this legend : — 'The Battle
of Culloden was fought on this moor, 16th April 174f>.
The graves of the gallant Highlanders who fought for
Scotland and Prince Charlie are marked by the names
of their clans.'
The invasion of England over and the battle of Fal-
kirk won, the Highland army, from besieging Stirling
Castle, retired to Inverness, where, on 12 April 1746,
news reached them, scattered and disorganised, that the
Duke of Cumberland had marched from Aberdeen.
Fording the deep am! rapid Spey, he on the 14th entered
Nairn, where the Prince's outposts halted till he was
within a mile of the town, beginning their retreat in
.sight of the British army. Next day, the Duke's birth-
day, the royal camp was a scene of festivity, provisions
being plentifully supplied by a fleet of storesliips that
had followed along the coast ; but the Prince, enjoying
no such advantage, found himself forced to hasten the
issue of the contest by a third appeal to arms. It was
therefore resolved in a council of war to attack the
enemy's camp in the night, and thus to compensate, so
far as might be, for inferiority of numbers, and yet more
for the want of cavalry and cannon. But as a surprise,
to be successful, must be ellected with speed and concert,
it is manifest that prompt obedience and accurate calcu-
lation are indispensable. The Highlanders did not finish
their preparations till the evening was far advanced,
317
CULLODEN
and, the night being very dark, they could not com-
plete their march until it was too late to hazard an
onset with any prospect of advantage. Orders were
therefore given for a retreat, and the wearied clansmen,
retracing their steps under a load of melancholy and
suspicion, resumed their original gi-ound on Culloden
Muir. In the opinion of the wisest among Charles's
officei-s, his arm}', after a march at once so harassing
and discouraging, should have taken up a position be-
yond the liver Nairn, where the bank was high and
inaccessible to cavalry. But to such reasonable pro-
posals he turned a deaf ear, being moved by a romantic
notion that it was unworthy of him to retire in the
presence of an enemy, or even to avail himself of any
sujieriority that might be attained by the judicious
choice of a field of battle. He would rather await the
onset of the Duke of Cumberland, who, profiting by the
experience of Cope and Hawley, made his dispositions
with much more skill and foresight than had been
shown at Frestonpaus or Falkii'k.
Before commencing the march, written instructions,
which had been communicated to the commanders of
the difl'erent regiments, were read at the head of every
company in the line. They ran, that if those to whom
the charge of the train or baggage horses was entrusted
should abscond or leave them, they should be punished
with instant death ; and that if any officer or soldier
misconducted himself during the action, he should be
sentenced. The infantry marched in three parallel
divisions or columns, of five regiments each, headed by
General Huske on the left, Lord Sempill on the right,
and General Mordaunt in the centre. The artillery and
baggage followed the first column on the right ; and the
dragoons and horse, led by Generals Hawley and Bland,
were on the left, forming a fourth column. Forty of
Kingston's horse and Argyllshire men led the van.
The charge of ranging the Highland army in line of
battle on this important occasion was entrusted to
O'Sullivan, who acted in the double capacity of adjutant
and quartermaster-general. This officer, in the oiiinion
of Lord George ^lurray, a high authority certainly, was
utterly unfit for such a task, and committed gross blun-
ders on every occasion of moment. In the present
instance, he did not even visit the ground where the
army was to be drawn up, and committed a ' fatal error '
in omitting to throw down some park walls on the
left of the English army, which being afterwards taken
possession of by the Duke of Cumberland, it was found
impossible to break the English lines from the destruc-
tive flank-fire opened therefrom on the right of the
Highland army, as it advanced to the attack. While
the Duke of Cumberland was forming his line of battle,
Lord George Murray was very desirous to advance and
demolish these walls ; but as sucli a movement would
have broken the line, the officers about him considered
that the attempt would be dangerous, and he therefore
did not make it.
The Highland army was drawn up in three lines.
The first, or front line, consisted of the Athole brigade,
which had tlie right, the Camerons, Stewarts of Appin,
Frasers, M'Intoshes, il'Lauchlans, M'Leans, John Roy
Stewart's regiment, and Farquharsons, united into one
regiment ; the M'Leods, Chisholms, M'Donalds of Clan-
ranald, Keppoch, anil Glengarry. The three M 'Donald
regiments formed tlie left. Lord George ^Murray com-
manded on the right. Lord John Druiiimond in tlie
centre, and the Duke of Perth on the left, of the first
line. There had been, a day or two before, a violent
(■ontention among the chiefs about precedency of rank.
The M'Donalds claimed tlie riglit as their due, in sup-
l)ort of wliich claim they stated, that as a reward for the
fidelity of Angus J^I 'Donald, Lord of tlie Isles, in pro-
tecting Robert the Bruce for upwards of nine months in
Ids dominions, that prince, at the battle of Bannock-
Iturn, conferred the post of lionour, tlie riglit, on the
•M'Donalds, — that this ])Ost had ever since been held
by them, unless wlien yielded from courtesy, as to the
chief of tlio il'Leans at tlie battle of Harlaw. Lord
George Murray, however, maintained that, under the
318
CULLODEN
Marquis of Montrose, the right had been assigned to the
Athole men, and he insisted that that post should now
be conferred upon them. In this rmseasonable demand.
Lord George is said to have been supported by Loehiel
and his friends. Charles refused to decide a question
with the merits of which he was imperfectly acquainted ;
but, as it was necessary to adjust the difference imme-
diately, he prevailed upon the commanders of the
M 'Donald regiments to waive their pretensions in the
present instance. The M'Donalds in general were far
from being satisfied with the complaisance of their com-
manders, and, as they had occupied the post of honour
at Prestonpans and Falkirk, they considered their de-
privation of it on the present occasion ominous. The
Duke of Perth, while he stood at the head of the Glen-
garry regiment, hearing the murmurs of the M'Donalds,
said, that if they behaved with their wonted valour
they would make a right of the left, and that he would
change his name to M 'Donald ; but the haughty clans-
men paid no heed to him.
The second line of the Highland army consisted of
the Gordons under Lord Lewis Gordon, formed in
column on the right, the French Royal Scots, the Irish
piquets or brigade. Lord Kilmarnock's foot guards,
Lord John Drummond's regiment, and Glenbucket's
regiment in column on the left, flanked on the right by
Fitz-James's dragoons, and Lord Elcho's horse-guards,
and on the left by the Perth squadron, under Lords
Strathallan and Pitsligo, and the Prince's body-guard.s
under Lord Balmerino. General Stapleton had the
command of this line. The third line, or reserve, con-
sisted of the Duke of Perth's and Lord Ogilvy's regi-
ments, under the last-mentioned nobleman. The
Prince himself, surrounded by a troop of Fitz-James's
horse, took his station on a very small eminence behind
the centre of the first line, from which he had a com-
plete view of the whole field of battle. The extremities
of the front line and the centre were each protected by
four pieces of cannon.
The English army continued steadily to advance in
the order already described, and, after a march of eight
miles, formed in line of battle, in consequence of the
advance guard reporting that they perceived the High-
land army at some distance making a motion towards
them on the left. Finding, however, that the High-
landers were still at a considerable distance, and that
the whole body did not move forward, the Duke of
Cumberland resumed his march, and continued to
advance till within a mile of the enemy, when he
ordered a halt, and, after reconnoitring the position of
the Highlanders, re-formed his army for battle in three
lines, and in the following order.
The first line consisted of six regiments, viz., the
Royals (the 1st), Cholmondeley's (the 34th), Price's
(the 14th), the Scots Fusilcers (the 21st), Monro's
(the 37th), and Barrel's (the 4th). The Earl of Albe-
marle had the command of this line. In the interme-
diate spaces between each of these regiments were placed
two pieces of cannon, making ten in all. The second
line consisted of five regiments, viz., those of Pulteney
(the 13th), Bligh (the 20th), Sempill (the 25th), Li-
gonier (the 4Sth), and Wolfe's (the 8th), and was under
the command of General Huske. Three pieces of
cannon were jdaced between the exterior regiments of
this line and those next them. The third line or corps
de reserve, under Brigadier Jlordaunt, consisted of four
regiments, viz., Battereau's (the 62d), Howard's (the
3d), Fleming's (the 3(3th), and Blakeney's (the 27th),
flanked by Kingston's dragoons (the 3d). The order in
which the regiments of the dilierent lines are enume-
rated is that in which they stood from right to left.
The flanks of the front line were protected on the left
by Kerr's dragoons (the 11th), consisting of three
squadrons, commanded by Lord Ancrum, and on the
right by Cobliam's dragoons (the 10th), consisting also
of three S(piadions, under General Bland, with the ad-
ditional security of a morass, extending towards the
sea ; but, thinking liimself (juite safe on the right, the
Duke afterwards ordered these last to the left, to aid in
CULLODEN
CULLODEN
an intended attack upon tlie riglit flank of the High-
landers. The Argyll men, with the exception of 140,
who were upon the left of the reserve, remained in
charge of the baggage.
The dispositions of both armies are considered to
have been well arranged ; but both were better cal-
culated for defence than for attack. The arrangement
of the English army is generally considered to have
been superior to that of the Higlilanders ; as, from the
regiments in the second and third lines being placed
directly behind the vacant spaces between the regiments
in the lines before them, the Duke of Cumberland, in
the event of one regiment in the front line being
broken, could immediately bring up two to supply its
place. But this opinion is questionable, as the High-
landers had a column on the flanks of the second line,
which might have been used either for extension or
echelon movemeut towards any point to the centre, to
support either the first or the second line.
In the dispositions described, and about the distance
of a mile from one another, did the two armies stand
for some time, each expecting the other to advance.
Whatever may have been the feelings of Prince Charles
on this occasion, those of the Duke of Cumberland ap-
pear to have been far from enviable. The thoughts of
Prestonpans and Falkirk could not but raise in him
direful apprehensions for the result of a battle aflecting
the very existence of his father's crown ; and that he
placed but a doubtful reliance upon his troops is evident
from a speech which he now made to his army. He
said that they were about to fight in defence of their
king, religion, liberties, and property, and that if only
they stood firm he had no doubt he should lead them on
to certain victory ; but that as he would much rather be
at the head of one thousand brave and resolute men
than of ten thousand mixed with cowards, if there
were any amongst them, who, through timidity, were
difiident of their courage, or others, who, from con-
science or inclination, felt a repugnance to perform their
duty, he begged them to retire immediately, and pro-
mised them free pardon for so doing, since by remaining
they might dispirit or disorder the other troops, and
bring dishonour and disgrace on the army under his
command.
As the Highlanders remained in their position, the
Duke of Cumberland again put his army in marching
order, and, after it had advanced, with fixed bayonets,
within half a mile of the front line of the Highlanders,
it again formed as before. In this last movement the
English army had to pass a piece of hollow ground,
which was so soft and swampy, that the horses which
drew the cannon sank ; and some of the soldiers, after
slinging their firelocks and unyoking the horses, had to
drag the cannon across the bog. As by this last move-
ment the army advanced beyond the morass which pi'o-
tected the right flank, the Duke immediately ordered up
Kingston's horse from the reserve, and a small squadron
of Cobham's dragoons, which had been patrolling, to
cover it ; and to extend his line, and prevent his being
outflanked on the right, he also at the same time ordered
up Pulteney's regiment (the 13th), from the second line
to the right of the Royals ; and Fleming's (the 36th),
Howard's (the 3d), and Battereau's (the 62d), to the
right of Bligh's (the 20th) in the second line, leaving
Blakeney's (the 27th) as a reserve.
During an interval of about half an hour some
manoeuvring took place, in attempts by each army to
outflank the other. Meanwhile a heavy shower of sleet
came on, which, though discouraging to the Duke's
amiy, from the recollection of the untoward occurrence
at Falkirk, was not considered very dangerous, as they
had now the wind at their backs. To encourage his
men, the Duke of Cumberland rode along the lines
addressing himself hurriedly to every regiment as he
passed. He exhorted his men to rely chiefly upon their
bayonets, and to allow the Highlanders to mingle with
them, that they might make them ' know the men they
had to deal with.' After the changes mentioned had
been executed. His Highness took his station behind the
Royals, between the first and the second line, and almost
in front of the left of Howard's regiment, waiting for
the expected attack. Jleanwhile, a singular occurrence
took place, characteristic of the self-devotion which the
Highlanders were ready on all occasions to manifest
towards the Prince and his cause. Conceiving that by
assassinating the Duke of Cumberland he would confer
an essential service on the Prince, a Highlander re-
solved, at the certain sacrifice of his own life, to make
the attempt. With this intention he entered the
English lines as a deserter, and, being gi'anted quarter,
was allowed to go through the ranks. He wandered
about with apparent indiflerence, eyeing the different
officers as he passed along, and it was not long till an
opportunity occurred, as he conceived, for executing his
fell purpose. The Duke having ordered Lord Bury, one
of his aides-de-camp, to reconnoitre, his lordship crossed
the path of the Highlander, who, mistaking him, from
his dress, for the Duke (the regimentals of both being
similar), instantly seized a musket from the ground, and
discharged it at his lordship. He missed his aim, and
a soldier, who was standing by, shot him dead on the
spot.
The advance of Lord Bury to within a hundred yards
of the insurgents appears to have been considered by the
Highlanders as the proper occasion for beginning the
battle. Taking ofl' their bonnets, they set up a loud
shout, which being answered by the royal troops with a
huzza, the Highlanders about one o'clock commenced
a cannonade on the right, which was followed by the
cannon on the left ; but the fire from the latter, owing
to the want of cannoneers, was, after one round, discon-
tinued. The first volley from the right seemed to
create some confusion on the left of the royal army, but
so badly were the cannon served and pointed, that
though the cannonade was continued upwards of half an
hour, only one man in Bligh's regiment, who had a leg
carried off by a cannon-ball, received any injury. After
the Highlanders had continued firing for a short time,
Colonel Belford, who directed the cannon of the Duke's
army, opened fire from the cannon in the front line, at
first aiming chiefly at the horse, probably either because
from their conspicuous situation they oftered a better
mark than the infantry, or because it was supposed that
Charles was among them. Such was the accuracy of
the aim taken by the royal artillerj', that several balls
entered the gi-ound among the horses' legs and be-
spattered the Prince with the mud that they raised ;
and one of them struck the horse on which he rode two
inches above the knee. The animal became so unman-
ageable, that Charles was obliged to change him for
another, and one of his servants, who stood behind with
a led horse in his hand, was killed on the spot. Ob-
serving that the wall on the right flank of the Highland
anny prevented him from attacking on that point, the
Duke ordered Colonel Belford to continue the cannonade,
with the view of provoking the Highlanders and draw-
ing them on to attack. They, on the other hand, en-
deavoured to lure the royal army forward, and sent down
several parties by way of defiance. Some of these ap-
proached three several times within a hundred yards of
the right of the enemy, firing their pistols and brandish-
ing their swords ; but with the exception of the small
squadron of horse on the right, which advanced a little,
the line remained immovable.
ileanwhile. Lord George Murray, observing that a
squadron of the English dragoons and a party of foot,
consisting of two companies of the Argyllshire men, and
one of Lord Loudon's Highlanders, had detached them-
selves from the left of the royal army, and were march-
ing down towards the I'iver Nairn, conceived that it
was their intention to flank the Highlanders, or to come
ujion their rear when engaged in front, so directed Gordon
of Avochy to advance with his battalion, and prevent
tlie foot from entering the enclosure. Bat before this
battalion could reach them, they had broken into it, and
throwing down part of the east wall, and afterwards a
piece of the west wall in the rear of the second line,
made a free passage for the dragoons, who formed in tho
CULLODEN
rear of the Prince's army. Upon this, Lord George
ordered the guards -ind" Fitz-Jamcs's horse to form
opposite to tiie dragoons to keep them in check. Each
party stood upon one side of a ravine, the ascent to
which was so steep, that neither couhl venture across in
presence of the other with safety. The foot remained
within the enclosure, and Avochy's battalion was
ordered to watch their motions.
It was now high time for the Highlanders to come to
% close engagement. Lord George had sent Colonel
Kerr to the Prince, to know if he should begin the
attack ; the Prince ordered him to do so, but his lord-
ship, for some reason or other, delayed advancing. It
is probable he expected that the Uuke would come
forward, and that by remaining where he was, and
retaining the wall and a small farmhouse on his
right, he would avoid the risk of being flanked.
Perhaps he waited for the advance of the left wing,
which, being not so far forward as the right, was
directed to begin the attack, and orders had been sent
to the Duke of Perth to that effect ; but the left remained
motionless. Anxious for the attack, Charles sent a fresh
order by an aide-de-camp to Lord George Murray, but
his Lordship never received it, as the bearer was killed
by a cannon-ball while on his way to the right. He
sent a message about the same time to Lochiel, desiring
him to urge upon Lord George the necessity of an imme-
diate attack.
Galled be3'ond endurance by the fire of the English,
which carried destruction among the clans, the High-
landers grew clamorous, and called aloud to be led
forward without further delay. Unable any longer to
restrain their impatience. Lord George had just resolved
upon an immediate advance ; but before he had time to
issue the order along the line, the M'Intoshes, wath a
heroism worthy of that brave clan, rushed forward
enveloped in the smoke of the enemy's cannon. The
fire of the centre field-pieces, and a discharge of mus-
ketry from the Scotch Fusileers, forced them to incline
a little to the right ; but all the regiments to their
right, led on by Lord George ]\Iurray in person, and the
united regiment of the M'Lauchlans and M'Leans on
their left, coming down close after them, the whole
moved forward together at a pretty quick pace. When
within pistol-shot of the English line, they received a
murderous fire, not only in front from some field-pieces,
which for the first time were loaded now with grape,
but in flank from a side battery supported by the
Campbells, and Lord Loudon's Highlanders. Whole
ranks were swept away by the terrible fire of the Eng-
lish. Yet, notwithstanding the carnage in their ranks,
the Highlanders continued to advance, and, after giving
their fire close to the English line, which, from the
density of the smoke, was scarcely visible even within
pistol-shot, the right wing, consisting of the Athole
Highlanders and the Camerons, rushed onward sword
in hand, and broke through Barrel's and Monroe's regi-
ments, which stood on the left of the first line. These
regiments bravely defended themselves with their spon-
toons and bayonets ; but such was the impetuosity of
the onset, that they would have been cut to pieces had
they not been supported Ity two regiments from the
second line, on whose approach they retired behind the
regiments on their right, after sustaining a loss in killed
and wounded of upwards of 200 men. After breaking
through these two regiments, the Highlanders hurried
forward to attack the left of the second line. They were
met by a tremendous fire of grape from the three field-
pieces on the left of the second line, and by a discharge
of musketry from Bligh's and Scmpill's regiments, which
carried havoc through their ranks, and ma<le them at
first recoil ; but, maddened by despair, and utterly
regardless of their lives, they rushed upon an enemy
wiioni they felt but could not see amid the cloud of
smoke in which the assailants were wra])]ied. By the
Stewarts of Appin, the Frasers, the M'Intoshes, and
the other centre regiments, a charge as fierce was made
on tlie foe ])efore them, driving them back upon the
•ecoud line, which they also attempted to break ; but,
320
CULLODEN
finding themselves unable, they gave up the contest,
not, however, until numbers had been cut do^^•n at the
cannon's mouth. While advancing towards the second
line, Lord George Murray, in attempting to dismount
from his horse, which had become unmanageable, was
thrown ; but, recovering himself, he ran to the rear and
brought up two or three regiments from the second line
to support the first ; but though they gave their fire,
nothing could be done, — all was lost. Unable to break
the second line, and terribly cut up by the fire of Wolfe's
regiment, and by Cobham's and Kerr's dragoons, who
had formed en jwtcnce on their right flank, the right
wing also gave up the contest, and, turning about, cut
their way back, sword in hand, through those who had
advanced and formed on the ground they had passed
over in charging to their front.
In consequence of the unwillingness of the left to
advance first as directed. Lord George Murray had sent
the order to attack from right to left ; but, hurried
by the impetuosity of the M'Intoshes, the right and
centre did not wait till the order, which required some
minutes in the delivery, had been communicated along
the line. Thus the right and centre had considerably
the start, and, quickening their pace as they went along,
had closed with the front liue of the English army before
the left had got half way over the ground that separated
the two armies. The diff'erence between the right and
centre and the left was rendered still more considerable
from the circumstance, as noted by an eye-witness, that
the two armies were not exactly parallel to one another,
the right of the Prince's army being nearer the Duke'a
than the left. Nothing could be more unfortunate for
the Prince than this isolated attack, as it was only by a
general shock on the whole of the English line that he
had any chance of victory.
The clan regiments on the left of the line, fearful
that they would be flanked by Pulteney's regiment and
the horse which had been brought up from the coiys de
reserve, held back. After receiving the fire of the regi-
ments opposite to them, they answered it by a general
discharge, and drew their swords for the attack ; but,
observing that the right and centre had given way, they
turned their backs and fled without striking a blow.
Stung to the quick by the misconduct of the M 'Donalds,
the gallant Keppoch advanced with drawn sword in one
hand and pistol in the other ; but he had not gone far
when a musket-shot brought him down. He was fol-
lowed by Donald Roy M 'Donald, formerly a lieutenant
in his own regiment, and now a captain in Clanranald's,
who, on Keppoch's falling, entreated him not to throw
away his life, assuring him that his wound was not
mortal, and that he might easily join his regiment in
the retreat ; but — with the exclamation, ' My God !
have the children of my tribe forsaken me?' — Keppoch
refused to listen to the solicitations of his clansman,
and, after recommending him to look to himself, and
receiving another shot, he fell to rise no more.
Fortunately for the Highlanders, the English army
did not follow up the advantage it had gained by an
immediate pursuit. Kingston's horse at first chased the
M 'Donalds, some of whom were almost surrounded by
them ; but they were kept in check by the French
piquets. The dragoons on the left of the English line
were in like manner kept at bay by Ogilvy's regiment,
which faced about upon them several times. After
these ineffectual attempts, the English cavalry on the
right and left met in the centre ; and, the front line
having dressed its ranks, orders were issued for the
whole to advance in pursuit.
Charles, who, from the small eminence on which he
stood, had observed with the deepest concern the defeat
and flight of the clans, was about to advance to rallj
them, contrary to the earnest entreaties of Sir Thomas
Sheridan and others, who assured him that he would
not succeed. All their expostulations would, it is said,
have failed, had not General O'SuUivan laid hold of
the bridle of Charles's horse, and led him off the field.
It was, indeed, full time to retire, as the whole army
was now in full retreat, followed by Cumberland's forces.
CULLODEN
To protect the Prince and secure his escape, most of his
horse assembled about liis person ; but tlicre was little
danger, as the victors advanced ver}- leisurely, and con-
fined themselves to cutting down defenceless stragglers
who fell in their way. After leaving the field, Charles
put himself at the head of the right wing, which retired
in such order that the cavalry sent to pursue could make
no impression on it.
At a short distance from the field of battle, Charles
separated his army into two parts. One of these divi-
sions, consisting, with the exception of the Frasers, of
the whole of the Highlanders and the low country regi-
ments, crossed the river Nairn, and proceeded towards
Badenoch ; the other, comprising the Frasers, Lord
Jolin Drummond's regiment, and the French piquets,
took the road to Inverness. The first division passed
within pistol-shot of the body of English cavalry which,
before the action, had formed in the rear of the High-
land army, without the least interruption. An English
officer, wiio had the temerity to advance a few paces to
seize a Highlander, was instantly cut down by him and
killed on the spot. The Highlander, instead of running
away, deliberately stooped down, and, pulling out a
watch from the pocket of his victim, rejoined his com-
panions. From the evenness of the ground over which
it had to pass, the smaller body of the Prince's army was
less fortunate, as it suffered considerably from the
attacks of the Duke's light horse before it reached
Inverness. Numerous small parties, which had de-
tached themselves from the main body, fell under the
sabres of the cavalry ; and many of the inhabitants of
the town and neighbourhood, who, from motives of
cui'iosity, had come out to witness the battle, were
slaughtered without mercy by the ferocious soldiery,
who, from the similarity of garb, were perhaps unable
to distinguish them from Charles's troops. This indis-
criminate massacre continued all the way from the field
of battle to a place called Mill-burn, within a mile of
Inverness. Not content with the profusion of blood-
shed in the heat of action and during the pursuit, the
infuriated soldiery, provoked by their disgraces at Pres-
tonpans and Falkirk, traversed the field of battle, and
massacred in cold blood the maimed and dying. Even
some officers, whose station in society, apart altogether
from feelings of humanity, to which they were utter
strangers, should have made them superior to this
vulgar triumph of base and illiberal minds, joined in
the work of assassination. To extenuate the atrocities
committed in the battle, and the subsequent slaughters,
a forged regimental order, bearing to be signed by Lord
George Murray, by which the Highlanders were enjoined
to refuse quarter to the royal troops, was afterwards
published, it is said under the auspices of the Duke of
Cumberland ; but the deception was easily seen through.
As no such order was alluded to in the official accounts
of the battle, and as, at the interview which took place
between the Earl of Kilmarnock and Lord Balmerino, on
the morning of their execution, both these noblemen
stated their entire ignorance of it, no doubt whatever
can exist of the forgery. The conduct of Charles and
his followers, who never indulged in any triumph over
their vanquished foes, but always treated them with
humanity and kindness, high as it is, stands higher still
in contrast with that of the royal troops and their com-
mander.
From the characteristic bravery of the Highlanders,
and their contempt of death, it is likely that some of
those who perished, as well on the field after the battle
as in the flight, did not yiekl their lives without a
desperate struggle ; and history has preserved one case
of individual prowess, in the person of Golice Macbane,
that deserves to be recorded. This man, who is repre-
sented to have been of the gigantic stature of 6 feet 4^
inches, was beset by a party of dragoons. Assailed, he
set his back against a wall, and, although covered with
wounds, defended himself with target and claymore
against the onset. Some officers, who observed the
unequal conflict, were so struck witii the desperate
bravery of Macbane, that they gave orders to save him ;
21
CULLODEN
but the dragoons, exasperated by his resistance, and the
dreadful havoc he had made among their companions,
thirteen of whom lay dead at his feet, would not desist
till they had cut him down.
According to the official accoimts published by the
government, the royal army had only 50 men killed,
and 259 wounded, including 18 officers, 4 of whom were
killed. Lord Robert Kerr, second son of the JMarquis of
Lothian, and captain of grenadiers in Barrel's regiment,
was the only person of distinction killed ; he fell covced
with wounds, at the head of his company, when the
Highlanders attacked his regiment. The loss on the
opposite side was never ascertained with any degi'ee of
precision. The number of the slain is stated, in some
publications of the period, to have amounted to upwards
of 2000 men, but these accounts are exaggerated. The
loss could not, however, be much short of 1200 men.
The Athole brigade alone lost more than the half of its
officers and men, and some of the centre battalions came
off" with scarcely a third of their men. The M'ln-
toshes, who were the first to attack, suffered most.
With the exception of three only, all the officers of this
brave regiment, including M'Gillivray of Drumnaglass,
its colonel, the lieutenant-colonel, and major, were killed
in the attack. All the other centre regiments also lost
several officers. M'Lauchlan, colonel of the united
regiment of M'Lauchlan and M'Lean, was killed by a
cannon-ball in the beginning of the action, and M'Lean
of Drimmin, who, as lieutenant-colonel, succeeded to
the command, met a similar fate from a random shot.
He had three sons in the regiment, one of whom fell in
the attack, and, when leading oft' the shattered remains
of his forces, he missed the other two, and, in returning
to look after them, received the fatal bullet. Charles
Eraser, younger of Inverallochie, lieutenant-colonel of
the Eraser regiment, and, in the absence of the blaster
of Lovat, commander of it on this occasion, was also
killed. When riding over the field after the battle, the
Duke of Cumberland observed this brave youth lying
wounded. Raising himself upon his elbow, he looked
at the Duke, who, offended at him, said to one of his
officers : ' Wolfe, shoot me that Highland scoundrel
who thus dares to look on us with so insolent a stare. '
Wolfe, horrified at the inhuman order, replied that his
commission was at his royal highness's disposal, but
that he would never consent to become an executioner.
Other officers refusing to comiuit this act of butchery, a
private soldier, at the command of the Duke, shot the
hapless youth before his eyes. The Ajjpin regiment had
17 officers and gentlemen slain, and 10 wounded ; and
the Athole brigade, which lost fully half its men, had
19 officers killed and 4 wounded. The fate of the heroic
Keppoch has been already mentioned. Among the
wounded, the princijial was Lochiel, who was shot in
both ankles with grape-shot at the head of his regiment,
after discharging his pistol, and while in the act of
drawing his sword. On falling, his two brothers, be-
tween whom he was advancing, raised him up, and
carried him off the field in their arms. To add to his
misfortunes, Charles also lost a considerable number of
gentlemen, his most <levoted adherents, who had charged
on foot in the first rank.
Lord Strathallan was the only person of distinction
that fell among the low country regiments. Lord Kil-
marnock and Sir John Wedderburn were taken prisoners.
The former, in the confusion of the battle, mistook,
amidst the smoke, a party of English dragoons for Fitz-
James's horse, and was taken. Having lost his hat, he
was led bare-headed to tlie front line of the English
infantry. His son, Lord Boyd, who held a commission
in the English army, unable to restrain his feelings,
left the ranks, and, going up to his imfortunate parent,
took off his own hat, placed it on his father's head, and
returned to his place without uttering a word.
At other times, and under different circumstances, a
battle like that of CuUoden would have been regarded
as an ordinary occurrence, of which, when all matters
were duly considered, the victors could make small
boast. The Highland army did not exceed 5000 tight-
321
CULLODEN
ing men ; and when it is considered that they had
been two days without sleep, were exhausted by the
march of the preceding night, and hatl scarcely tasted
food for forty-eight hours, the wonder is that they fought
so well as they did, against an army almost double in
point of numbers, and labouring under none of the dis-
advantages to which, iu a more esjjecial manner, the
overthrow of the Highlanders is to be ascribed. Never-
theless, as the spirits of the great majority of the nation
had been sunk to the lowest state of despondency by the
reverses of the royal arms at Prestonpans and Falkirk,
this unlooked-for event was hailed as one of the greatest
military achievements of ancient or modern times ; and
the Duke of Cumberland, who had, in consequence, an
addition of £25,000 per annum made to his income by
parliament, was regarded as the greatest hero of ancient
or modern times. In its consequences, as entirely and
for ever destructive of the claims of the unfortunate
house of Stuart, the battle was one of the most imjjort-
ant ever fought. Though vanquished, the Highlanders
retired from the field with honour, and free from that
foul reproach which has fixed an indelible stain upon
the memories of the victors.
After the carnage of tlie day had ceased, the brutal
soldiery, who, from the fiendish delight which they took
in sprinkling one another with the blood of the slain,
' looked,' as stated bj^ one of themselves, ' like so many
butchers rather than an army of Christian soldiers,'
dined on the field of battle. After his men had finished
their repast, the Duke of Cumberland marched forward
to take possession of Inverness, and on his way received
a letter, which had been addressed to General Bland,
signed by six of the French ofiicers in the insurgent
army, ottering in behalf of themselves and their men to
surrender unconditionally to His Royal Highness. As
he was about to enter the town he was met by a drum-
mer, who brought him a message from General Staple-
ton, olfering to surrender and asking quarter. On
receiving this communication, the Duke ordered Sir
Joseph Yorke, one of his ofiicers, to alight from his
horse, and pencil a note to General Stapleton, assuring
him of fair quarter and honourable treatment. The
town was then taken possession of by Captain Campbell,
of Sempill's regiment, with his company of gi'enadiers.
Xotwithstauding the massacres which were committed
immediately after the battle, a considerable number of
wounded Highlanders still survived, some of whom had
taken refuge in a few cottages adjoining the field of
battle, while others lay scattered among the neighbour-
ing inclosures. Many of these men might have recovered
if ordinary attention had been paid to them ; but the
stern Duke, considering that those who had risen in
rebellion against his father were not entitled to the
rights of humanity, entirely neglected them. But, bar-
barous as such conduct was, it was only the prelude to
enormities of a still more revolting descrijition. At first
the victors conceived that they had completed the work
of death by killing all the wounded they could discover ;
but when they were informed that some still survived,
they resolved to despatch them. A Mr Hossack, who
had filled the situation of provost of Inverness, and who
hud, under the direction of President Forbes, jjcrformed
important .services to the government, having gone to
pay his respects to the Duke of Cumberland, found
Generals Hawley and Huske deliberating on this in-
liuman design. Observing them intent upon their
object, and actually proceeding to make out orders for
killing the wounded Highlanders, he ventured to remon-
strate against such a barbarous step. ' As his majesty's
troops have been happily successful against the rebels,
I hope,' he said, 'your excellencies will be so good as
to mingle mercy with judgment.' Hawley, in a rage,
••ried out, ' D — n the l)Uiipy ! does he pretend to dictate
here ? Carry him away ! ' Anotiier ofiicer ordered Hos-
sack to be kicked out, and the order was obeyed with
such instantaneous precision, that tlie ex-i)rovost found
Inmself at the bottom of two fiights of stejjs almost in a
twinkling.
In terms of the cruel instructions alluded to, a party
322
CULLOW
was despatched from Inverness the daj' after the battle
to put to death all the wounded they might find in the
inclosures adjoining the field of Culloden. These orders
were fulfilled with a punctualit}^ and deliberation that
is sickening to read of. Instead of despatching their
unfortunate victims on the spot where they found tliem,
the soldiers dragged them from the places wliere they
lay weltering in their gore, and, having ranged them on
some spots of rising ground, poured in volleys of mus-
ketry upon them. Next day parties were sent to search
all the houses in the neighbourhood of the field of battle,
with instructions to carry thither all the wounded High-
landers they could find and despatch them. Many were
iu consequence murdered ; and the young laird of
M'Leod was heard frankly to declare, that on this
occasion he himself saw seventy-two persons killed in
cold blood. The feelings of humanity were not, how-
ever, altogether obliterated in the hearts of some of the
officers, who spared a few of the wounded. In one in-
stance the almost incredible cruelty of the soldiery was
strikingly exemplified. At a short distance from the
field of battle there stood a small hut, used for shelter-
ing sheep and goats in cold and stormy weather, into
which some of the wovmded had crawled. On discover-
ing them the soldiers immediately secured the door, to
prevent egi'ess, and thereupon set fire to the hut in
several places, and all the persons within, to the number
of between thirty and forty, perished in the flames.
Another instance of fiendish cruelty occurred the
same day. Almost immediately after the battle, nine-
teen wounded officers of the Highland army, unable to
follow their retiring companions, secreted themselves in
a small plantation near Culloden House. Thence they
were afterwards carried to the courtyard of the mansion,
where they remained two days in great torture weltering
in their blood, and Mitliout the least medical aid or
attention but such as they received from the President's
steward, who, at the hazard of his own life, alleviated
the suflerings of his unhappy countrymen by several
acts of kindness. These wretched sulferers were now
tied with ropes by the brutal soldiery, thrown into
carts, and carried out to a park wall at a short distance
from Culloden House. Dragged out of the carts, they
were ranged in order along the wall, and were told by
the ofiicer in command of the party to prepare for death.
Such of them as retained the use of their limbs fell down
upon their knees in prayer ; but they had little time
allowed them to invoke mere}-, for in a minute the sol-
diers received orders to fire, and, from a distance of only
two or three yards, the unfortunate gentlemen were almost
all instantly shot dead. To complete the butchery,
the soldiers were ordered to club their muskets and dash
out the brains of such as showed any symptoms of life,
an order which, horrible to tell, was actually fulfilled.
A gentleman named John Fraser, who had been an offi-
cer in the Master of Lovat's regiment, alone survived.
He had received a Ijall, and, being obsei'ved to be still
alive, was struck on tlie face by a soldier with the butt
end of his musket. Though one of his cheek-bones and
the upper part of his nose were broken, and one of his
eyes dashed out by the blow, he still lived, but the
party, thinking they had killed him, left him for dead.
He would probably have expired, had not the attention
of Lord Boyd, son of the Earl of Kilmarnock, when
riding past, been fortunately attracted by the number
of dead bodies lying together. Espying, at a little dis-
tance from the heap, one body stirring, his lordship
went up, and having ascertained from the mouth of the
sufferer who he was, ordered his servant to carry Mr
Fraser to a cottage near at hand, where he lay concealed
for three months. He lived several years afterwards,
but was a crijqile for life.
See The Culloden Papers, 1625-1748 (1815); Hill
Burton's Life of Duncan Forbes (ISiS), and vol. viii. , pp.
486-496, of his Jlistory of Scolland (ed. 1876); Robert
Chambers's History of the llehcllion (1S47); and Alex.
Charles Ewald's Life and Times of rrincc Charles
Stuart (2 vols., 1876).
CuUow, a farm in the parish and near the hamlet of
CULLY
Cortachy, NW Forfarshire, 5 miles N of Kirriemuir.
A sheep fair is held here on the last Friday of April.
Cully. See Cally.
CuUykhan, a romantic ravine in the E of Gamrie parish,
Bantlshire, traversed by a brook, and descending to the
sea, near Troup House.
Culmallie. See Golspie.
Culquhanny. See Colquhony.
Culrain, a station in Kincardine parish, N Ross-shire,
on the Highland railway, 3 miles NW of Ardgay, under
which it has a post and telegraph office. Near it is
Culrain Lodge.
Culross (Gael, 'back or neck of the peninsula'), a
small town and a parish in the detached district of Perth-
shire. A royal and parliamentary burgh, the town
Seal of Culross.
stands on the Firth of Forth, 2i miles SSE of East
Grange station, this being 6 miles W by N of Dunferm-
line, and 7f ESE of Alloa. It occujnes the face of a
brae, amid gardens and fruit-trees, and, as seen from
the Firth, has a pleasing and picturesque aspect ; but,
once a place of importance, it has fallen into gi'eat decay.
It had a Cistercian abbey which possessed much wealth,
and worked large neighbouring coal mines ; it conducted
so great a trade in salt and coal that sometimes as many
as 170 foreign vessels lay off it simultaneously in the
Firth, to receive the produce of its salt-pans and its
mines ; it carried on a great manufacture of the round
iron baking-plates called girdles, w'hich, as noticed in
Scott's Heart of Midlothinn, rendered its hammermen
pre-eminently famous ; and it acquired, towards the close
of the ISth century, extensive works for the extraction
of tar, naptha, and volatile salt from coal. It lost, how-
ever, all these sources of prosperity, and with them its
proper characteristics as a town ; and it now is an old-
world, sequestered place, whose chief attractions are
its beautiful surroundings and various architectural an-
tiquities, of which the ' Palace,' a house near the
middle of the village, bearing dates 1597 and 1611,
is one of the most interesting. Its abbey, dedicated
to SS. ilary, Andrew, and Serf, was founded in
1217 by Malcolm, Earl of Fife, and, with the
lands belonging to it, was granted to Sir James
Colville, who, in 1609, was created Lord Colville of Cul-
ross. The aisleless choir, First Pointed in style,
remains of the abbey church, together with a fine,
lofty, and very perfect western tower, originally central,
of early Second Pointed character ; and the former, as
modernised about 1S24, serves as the parish church, con-
taining nearly 700 sittings. The rest of the abbey is in
ruins. A recess on the N side of the church is the
burial-place of the Bruce family, ami shows white
alabaster effigies of Sir George Bruce {ob. 1625), his lady,
and their eight children, and a niche for the .silver
casket in which was enshrined the heart of Edward,
Lord Bruce, who fell in a duel near Bergen-op-Zoom iu
CULROSS
1613. Culross Abbey House, in the near vicinity of the
church, was built in 1608 bj' Edward, Lord Bruce of Kin-
loss ; and, bought from the Earl of Dundonald by Sir
Robert Preston, by him was nearly demolished, and after-
wards rebuilt in 1830, being now a spacious edifice,
delightfully situated, commanding an extensive prosjiect
of the basin of the Forth, and having in its policies a noble
medlar tree and a Spanish chestnut, 80 feet high, and
19 J^ in girth at 1 foot from the ground. It again belongs
to the Bruces in the person of the Earl of Elgin, who holds
in Perthshire 232 acres, valued at £1871 per annum.
(See Broomhall. ) The ancient parish church, | mile W
by N of the abbej% was formally superseded by the abliey
church in 1633, and is now represented by some ruins
of Norman or First Pointed origin, with several interest-
ing tombstones. At the E end of the town are vestiges of
a chapel, built in 1503 by Robert Blackadder, Archbishop
of Glasgow, and dedicated to St Mungo or Kentigern,
who is commonly stated to have been educated by St
Serf at the monastery of Culross, against which Skene
maintains that Kentigera died in extreme old age in
603, and that Servanus did not found the church of
Culross till between the years 697 and 706 {Celt. Scotland,
ii. 31, 184, 257). Anyhow an Episcopal church. Transi-
tion Norman in style, with nave, apse, N organ chamber,
and bell-gable, containing a chime of three bells, was
dedicated to St Serf in 1876. There are also a Free
church and an endowed school, called Geddes' Institu-
tion, which, rebuilt by the late Miss Davidson at a
cost of £1500, gives education to twenty boys and girls,
and possesses one free Edinburgh bursary. A public
school, with accommodation for 140 children, had (1880)
an average attejidance of 103, and a grant of £92,
7s. 6d. To the E of the town are remains of a hos]iital
founded for six aged women in 1637 by the first Earl
of Elgin, the recipients of whose charity now live in
a modern building erected by Sir Robert Preston.
Charities of considerable value were instituted also by
Dr Bill, Sir Robert Preston, and Miss Halkerston of
Carskerdo. The town has a post office under Alloa,
with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph depart-
ments, 2 inns, a plain town-house, and a fair on the
third Tuesday of July. Erected into a burgh of barony
in 1484, and into a royal burgh in 1588, it is governed
bj'^ a provost, 2 bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and
4 councillors ; and unites ^\-ith Stiklixg, Dunfermline,
Inverkeithing, and Queensferry in returning a member
to parliament. The parliamentary constituency num-
bered 59 in 1882, when the annual value of real property
amounted to £1647, while the corporation revenue for
1881 was £51. Pop. (1851) 605, (1861) 517, (1871) 467,
(1881) 373. Houses (1881) 96 inhabited, 22 vacant.
The parish, containing also the villages of Blairburn,
Comrie, and Low Valleyfield, is bounded NW by Clack-
mannan, NE and E by Saline, Carnock, and Torrybnru
in Fife, S by the Firth of Forth, SAV and W by Tulli-
allan. Its utmost length, from N to S, is 4 miles ; its
breadth, from E to W, varies between If and 3| miles ;
and its area is 8949 acres, of which 1311^ are foreshore
and 54 water. The surface rises abruptly from the shore
to 250 feet above sea-level behind Low Valleyfield, and
undulates thence, in gentle inequalities, throughout
most of the parish, attaining^ 317 feet near Mounteclaret
in the N, but nowhere forming anything that deserves
to be called a hill. Bluther and Grange Burns are the
chief streams. The rocks are mainly carboniferous ;
but, with the exception of Blairhall, the once extensive
collieries are now too much exhausted to afibrd a profit-
able return. One pit near Culross Abbe}' House was
carried almost a mile beneath the Firth, communicating
there by a sea-sliaft with an insidated wharf for tiie
shii)ping of its coal ; and was reckoned one of the
greatest wonders in Scotland, but was drowned by the
great storm of Jlarch 1625. Tradition relates that
James VI., revisiting his native country in 1617, and
(lining at the Abbey House, expressed a desire to see
this mine ; that he was lirought by his host. Sir Gcorgfl
Bruce, to the said wharf ; and that, on seeing himself
surrounded by the waves, he raised his customary cry of
323
CULROY
'Treason.' 'Whereon Sir George, pointing to an elegant
pinnace moored at the wharf, offered him the choice of
going ashore in it, or of returning by the way he came ;
and "the King, preferring the shortest way, was taken
directly ashore, expressing much satisfaction at what he
had beheld (Forsyth's Beauties of Scotland, ISO.".). Iron-
stone occurs in thin seams between beds of clay slate,
in ililfereut places, though not plentifully enough to
defray the expense of working ; and a bed of limestone
18 feet thick is found in one place at an awkward inclina-
tion. Fire-clay also occurs, and has been used for pot-
tery. The soil, for the most part argillaceous, is mixed
in many places with sand, and rests commonly on
masses of sandstone or shale. Natives were Robert Pont
(1529-1606), churchman and senator of the College of
Justice; Henry Hunter, D.D. (1741-1802), a distin-
guished divine ; and Thomas Cochrane, tenth Earl of
Dundonald (1775-1860), author of Autobiograp/iij of a
Seaman. The principal mansions are Culross Abbey,
Culross Park, Valleyfield, Comrie Castle, Blair Castle,
Brankston Grange, Balgownie Lodge (old but modern-
ised), and DrxiMARLE Castle, whose ancient predecessor
was the traditional scene of the murder of l^ady MacdutF
and her children. Seven proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 5 of between £100 and £500,
and ItJ of from £20 to £50. In the presbytery of Dun-
fermline and synod of Fife, Culross has been a collegiate
charge since about 1640, when the town was at the
height of its prosperity ; the stipend of each minister
is on an average £200. Valuation (1871) £9328, 4s. 6d.,
(1882) £6855, lis. 7d. Pop. (1801) 1502, (1831) 1488,
(1861) 1423, (1S71) 1354, (1881) 1130.— Ord Sur., sh.
39, 1869. See The Legends and Commemorative Cele-
bratiois of St Kcntigem {Edinh. 1872); the Rev. A. W.
Hallen's ' Notes on the Secular and Ecclesiastical Anti-
quities of Culross,' in vol. xii. oi Frocs. Sac. Ants. Scotl.
(1878); and D. Beveridge's Culross and Tulliallan
(Edinb. 1882).
Culroy, a hamlet in Maybole parish, Ayrshire, 3 miles
N of Maybole town.
Culsahnond, a hamlet and a parish in Garioch district,
Aberdeenshire. The hamlet — a farm-house, the church,
and the manse — stands at 600 feet above sea-level, near
the left bank of the Ury, 4| miles NNE of its post-town
and station, Insch^ this being 27A miles NW of Aberdeen.
Containing also Colpy post-office hamlet, and bounded
N by Forgue, NE by Auchterless, E by Rayne, S by
Oyne, SW and W by Insch, the parish has an utmost
length from N to S of 5 miles, a varying width from E
to W of If and 3§ miles, and an area of 6995 acres,
of which 1 is water. The drainage is carried south-south-
ea-stward by the upper Ury; and the surface, sinking in
the S to 310 feet above sea-level, thence rises northward
to 431 feet at Little Ledikin, 521 near Mellenside, 607
at Fallow Hill, 1078 at the wooded Hill of Skares, and
1219 at the Hill of Tillymorgan. A fine blue slate was
quarried prior to 1860; and a vein of ironstone, extend-
ing across the parish from Rayne to Insch, was proved,
by specimens sent to Carron works, to contain a large
projiortion of good iron. A subterranean moss, in some
parts more than 8 feet deep, occurs on Pulquliitu farm ;
and a strong mineral spring, said to be beneficial in
scrofulous complaints, is at Saughen-loan. The soil is
mainly a yellowish clay loam, lighter and mixed with
fragments of slate on the uplands, and at Tillymorgan
giving place to moss and inferior clay. Plantations cover
a considerable area. Cairns were at one time numerous ;
two stone circles have left some traces on Colpy farm ;
two sculptured standing -stones (figured in l)r John
Stuart's great work, 1866) are on the lands of Newton ;
and stone coffins, flint implements, etc., have been
from time to time discovered. Newton and William-
stun are the principal mansions ; and 5 proprietors
hoM each an annual value of more, 3 of less, than
£100. Culsalmond is in the presbytery of Garioch
ami synod of Aberdeen ; the living is worth £220. The
parish church, an old building, was the scene of one of
tlio.-.e contests that led to tlic Disrupti(m ; and the
neighbouring Free church, Kariy Eiiglisii in style, with
324
CULTER
a tower, was erected in 1866 at a cost of £2000, its
predecessor from 1843 having been a mere wooden
shed, in the 'deep hollow of Caden.' There are also
an Independent church and Tillymorgan Episcopal
chapel (1851) ; whilst Culsalmond public school (re-
built 1876) and Tillymorgan Episcopal school, witii re-
spective accommodation lor 150 and 64 children, had
(1880) an average attendance of 100 and 43, and grants
of £61, 8s. and £33, 13s. 6d. Valuation (1881) £6415,
16s. 5d. Pop. (1801) 730, (1831) 1138, (1861) 1165,
(1871) 896, (1881) 828.— Ord Sur., sh. 86, 1876.
Culsh. See Deer, New.
Culter, a station, an estate, and a rivulet on the SE
border of Aberdeenshire. The station is on the Deeside
railway, within Peterculter parish, near the influx of
Culter rivulet to the river Dee, 1% miles WSW of Aber-
deen. The estate is mainly in Peterculter parish, partly
in Drumoak, and from the 13th century till 1726 be-
longed to a branch of the Cummings. Culter House
here, 1 mile NE of the station, is a large old mansion,
said to have been built by Sir Alexander Gumming, who,
in 1695, was created a Baronet, and whose son, Sir
Archibald (1700-75), for a time was ruler of the
Cherokees. It now is a seat of Rt. Wni. Duff, Esq. of
Fetteresso and Glassaugh, who, born in 1835, has sat
for Banfi'shire since 1861, and who owns 1588 acres in
the shire, valued at £1747 per annum. The rivulet,
rising on the W border of Cluny parish, meanders 10
miles eastward, through Cluny and on Cluny's boundaries
with Midmar and Edit ; expands into Loch Skene, on
the mutual boundary of Echt and Skene ; and proceeds
thence 4 miles south-eastward, partly on the same
boundary partly through Peterculter, to the Dee. Its
lower reaches, with features of lake and linn, steep
banks and wooded cliffs, bridges and mills, present a
series of romantic scenes. See Peterculter.
Culter, a village in the upper ward and the E of
Lanarkshire, and a parish partly also in Peeblesshire.
The village stands upon Culter Water, 2f miles SSW of
Biggar, and Ig mile SSE of Culter station on the
Peebles branch of the Caledonian, this lieing If mile W
by N of Symington Junction, and 17^ miles W by S of
Peebles. It chiefly consists of neat houses, embowered
among shrubs and trees ; at it are the Tmrish church, a
public school, and a post office under Biggar ; whilst a
Free church stands 1 mile to the N.
The ]iari.sli is bounded N by Biggar and Skirling, E
by the Killjucho and Glenholm portions of Broughtou,
SE by Drummelzier, SW by Crawford and Lamington,
and NW by Symington. In shape resembling a rude
triangle with southward apex, it has an utmost length
from N by W to S by E of 7| miles, an utmost breadth
from E to W of 3| miles, and an area of 11,932^ acres,
of which 48o are water, and 1713 belong to Peeblesshire,
being also, however, claimed for BiloI'GHTON'. The
Clyde winds 2| miles north-north-eastward along all
the Symington border ; and its affluent Culter Water,
formed by three head-streams in the southern extremity
of the parish, runs 6| miles northward and north-west-
ward, first through a narrow glen, where it makes some
romantic falls, and next across a finely- wooded, culti-
vated plain. The surface sinks near Culter station, at
the NW corner of the parish, to 665 feet above sea-
level, thence rising eastward to 1345 feet on the Har-
tree Ilills, and southward to 820 near Cornhill, 745 at
Highfield, 939 at Nether Hangingshaw, 1187 on Snaip
Hill, 1596 on Turkey Hill, 1880 on *Scawdmans Hill,
2087 on *King Bank Head, 1578 on Ward Law, 2454 on
*Culter Fell, 1769 on Woodycleuch Dod, 1679 on
Knock Hill, 1874 on Snowgill Hill, and 2141 on *Hill-
shaw Head, where asterisks mark those summits that
culminate on the Peeblesshire border. The northern
district, including the Peeblesshire section, comprises a
considerable jiortion of the broad dingle extending from
the Clyde in the neighbourhood of Symington eastward
to the lower reach of Biggar Water ; with its mansions,
lawns, and groves, it presents an aspect more like that
of a rich English level than like that of a Scottish hill
region. The southern district exhibits a striking con-
CULTERCULLEN
trast to the northern, a long range of green hills, partly
planted and parked, rising steeply from the plains and
gradually merging into heathy mountains, the ' divide '
between Clydesdale and Tweeddale. The rocks include
some Devonian conglomerate, but are mainly Silurian ;
whilst the soil over most of the lower grounds is a sandy
loam, in the eastern part of the Peeblesshire section
inclines to clay, and on the braes and hills is light and
dry. About one-third of the area is either regularly or
occasionally in tillage, and upwards of 400 acres are
under wood. The antiquities include live circular
camps, two tumuli, the remains of Cow Castle near the
eastern border, and, in the Peeblesshire portion, the site
of Hartree Tower. Culter Allers House, near the
village, a Scottish Baronial edifice of 1882, is the seat
of John Menzies Baillie, Esq. of Culter Allers (b. 1826 ;
siic. 1880), who owns 4648 acres in the shire, valued at
£2010 per annum ; and other mansions, separately
noticed, are Birthwood, Cornhill, Culter Mains, and Har-
tree. In all, 3 proprietors hold each an annual value of
more, and 4 of less, than £500. Culter is in the i)resby-
tery of Biggar and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; the
living is worth £290. The parish church, built in
1810, contains 300 sittings ; and the Free church,
dating from 1843, was restored in 1874 at a cost ex-
ceeding £900. The public school, with accommodation
for 89 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 66,
and a grant of £64, lis. Valuation (1882) £8941,
7s. 6d. , of which £2141, 14s. 6d. was in Peeblesshire.
Pop. (1801) 369, (1831) 497, (1861) 665, (1871) 593,
(1881) blL—Ord. Sur., sh. 24, 1864.
CultercuUen, a village, with a public school, in
Foveran parish, Aberdeenshire, 1| mile E by S of Udny
station, and 15 miles N by W of Aberdeen, under which
it has a post office.
Culter Mains, an estate, with a mansion, in Culter
parish, Lanarkshire, 3^ miles SW of Biggar.
Cultoquhey, an estate, with a mansion, on the W
border of Fowlis-Wester parish, Perthshire. The man-
sion stands 24 miles NE of Crietf, and is a gi'aceful
edifice in the Tudor style, after designs by Smirke.
The property of the Maxtones since 1410 and earlier,
the estate is now held by Jas. Maxtone Graham, Esq.
(b. 1819 ; sue. 1846), the thirteenth in unbroken male
descent, who assumed the name of Graham on succeed-
ing in 1859 to the lauds of Redgorton, and who owns
2519 acres in the shire, valued at £3117 per annum.
Cults, a parish of central Fife, containing to the "VV the
post-office village of Pitlessie, 4 J miles S W of Cupar and
2i E of its station and post-town, Ladybank, this being
28^ miles N by E of Edinburgh. Bounded N by Moni"
mail and Cupar, E by Ceres, S by Kettle, and W by
Kettle and CoUessie, it has an utmost length from N
to S of 2| miles, a varying width from E to W of 9
furlongs and 2| miles, and an area of 2925 acres, of
■which 95 lie detached, and 1 is water. The Eden winds
3 miles north-eastward along the CoUessie and Cupar
borders and through the interior ; where it quits the
parish in the furthest N, the surface sinks to close on
100 feet above sea-level, thence rising to 698 feet near
Brotus in the SW and 622 at Walton Hill, which latter,
however, culminates just within Ceres. The rocks are
chiefly carboniferous ; and sandstone and limestone are
extensively worked, whilst coal was at one time mined.
The soil, in the N, is a light brownish sand ; in the centre,
is chiefly a soft black loam ; on the sides and tops of the
hills, is a strong fertile clay. A fort on the western
slope of Walton Hill is the only antiquity of Cults,
whose greatest son was Scotland's greatest painter. Sir
David Wilkie (1785-1841), born in the simple manse.
His father was parish minister, and at the school here
Davie is said to have liked best ' to lie agroufo on the
grun wi' his slate and pencil,' at the church to have
sketched the portraits for 'Pitlessie Fair' (1804) and
the ' Village Politicians ' (1806). Crawford Piuury is
the chief mansion, and the Earl of Glasgow is chief pro-
prietor, 3 others holding each an annual value of
between £100 and £500, 1 of iVom £50 to £100, and 5 of
from £20 to £50. Giving off a portion to Springfield
CUMBERNAULD
quoad sacra parish. Cults is in the presbytery of Cupar
and synod of Fife ; the living is worth £210, The
church, 1 mile ENE of Pitlessie, was built in 1793, and,
as enlarged in 1835, contains 430 sittings ; the interior
is adorned with a noble piece of sculpture by Chantrey,
erected by Wilkie in memory of his parents. At
Pitlessie also are a U.P. church and Cults public school,
which, with accommodation for 150 children, had
(1880) an average attendance of 82, and a grant of £64,
17s. Valuation (1882) £6596, 17s. 8d. Pop. (1801)
699, (1831) 903, (1861) 800, (1871) 767, (1881) 704.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 40, 1867.
Cults, a hamlet in the Aberdeenshii-e section of
Banchory-Devenick parish, near the left bank of the
Dee, with a station on the Deeside railway, 4 miles
WSW of Aberdeen, under which it has a post and
telegraph office. At it are a Free church and an en-
dowed school ; and near it stands Cults House, whose
owner, Rt. Shirra-Gibb, Esq. (b. 1847 ; sue. 1880),
holds 981 acres in the shire, valued at £1669 per
annum. Two stone coffins, containing human remains,
were found a little to the N of this mansion in 1850 ;
and three large cairns are still on the estate.
Culvain, a summit, 3224 feet high, in Kilmallie parish,
Inverness-shire, 2^ miles SSE of the head of Loch Ar-
chaig.
Culzean. See Colzean.
Cumbernauld, a thriving town and a parish in the
detached section of Dumbartonshire. The town is
situated on the high road from Glasgow to Edinbiu'gh
through Falkirk, 1^ mile N of Cumbernauld station on
the Caledonian, and 2 miles SW of Castlecary station on
the North British, this being 15i miles NE of Glasgow,
6i W by S of Falkirk, and SIJ W by N of Edinburgh.
A picturesque old place, sheltered to E and SE by the
grounds of Cumbernauld House, it was created a burgh
of barony in 1649, and has a post office under Glasgow,
a branch of the Royal Bankj a local savings' bank, 2
chief inns, gas-works, many new handsome villas, and a
cattle-fair on the second Thursday of May. The parish
church here is an old building, containing 660 sittings ;
the Free church dates from 1826, having belonged to
the Original Secession, but has been lately almost rebuilt ;
and there is also a new U.P. church. Haudloom
weaving of checks and other striped fabrics is still
carried on, but mining and quarrying are the staple
industry. Pop. (1861) 1561, (1871) 1193, (1881) 1064.
The parish, contahiing also the village of Condohrat,
was disjoined from Kirkintilloch in 1649, under the
name of Easter Lenzie. It is bounded NW by Kilsyth,
NE by Denny, and E by Falkirk, all three in Stirling-
shire ; S by New Iilonkland, in Lanarkshire ; and W by
Kirkintilloch. Its utmost length, from E to W, is
7^ miles ; its utmost breadth, from N to S, is 4 miles ;
and its area is 11,804 acres, of which 168J are water.
Fannyside Loch, 2g miles SE of the town, is the only
one that has not been drained of several lakes ; it is 6|
furlongs long and from 1 to 2 furlongs broad. The
new-born Kelvin traces 3| miles of the north-western,
and Luggie Water 4| miles of the southern, border;
whilst the former throughout is also closely followed by
4 J miles of the Forth and Clyde Canal. The surface is
prettily diversified with gentle acclivities and fertile
vales, sinking in the AV to close on 200 feet above sea-
level, and rising eastward to 482 feet at Croy Hill, 513
near Carrickstone, 528 near West Forest, and 580 near
Garbet on Fannyside Muir, which, yielding now nothing
but gorse and heather, was, do^vn to a comparatively
recent period, occupied by a renmant of the ancient
Caledonian Forest. Here, till at least 1571, the savage
white cattle still ran wild, since in that year a writer
complains of the havoc comuutted by the King's party
on the deer in the forest of Cumbernauld and its ' quhit
ky and buUis, to the gryt destructione of polecie and
hinder of the commonweil. For that kynd of ky and
bullis hes bein keipit this money yeiris in the said
forest ; and the like was not mentenit in ony uther
partis of the He of Albion.' The rocks are partly erup-
tive, partly belong to the Carboniferous Limestone
o25
CUMBRAE, GREAT, BIG, OR MEIKLE
Bcries. A colliery is at Xetherwood ; ironstone has been
mined to a snialfextent by the Cairon Company ; and
limestone, brick-clay, sandstone, and trap are all of them
largely worked, the sandstone for building, the trap for
road-metal, paving, and rough masonry. The soil
varies in quality, but is ehielly a deep clay of tolerable
fertility. Fully eleven-sixteenths of the entire area are
under the plough ; woods may cover one-sixteenth more ;
and the rest is pastoral or waste. Antoninus' AVall,
ti-aversing all the northern border, nearly in the line of
the canal, has left some scanty remains ; and a Roman
road, leading southward from Castlecary, is partially
traceable on Fannyside Muir. On the standing-stone
of Carrickstone Bruce is said by tradition to have
planted his standard, when marshalling his forces on
the eve of the battle of Bannockburn ; and pre-Reforma-
tion chapels are thought to have existed at Achenbee,
Achenkill, Chapelton, Kildrum, Kilmuir, and Croy.
Cumbernauld House, standing amid an extensive park,
i mile ESE of the town, superseded an ancient castle,
wliich, with its barony, passed about 1306 from the
Comyns to Sir Robert Fleming, whose grandson. Sir
iMalcolm, was lord of both Biggar and Cumbernauld ;
it is now a seat of John William Burns, Esq. of Kilma-
hew (b. 1837 ; sue. 1871), owner of 1670 acres in the
shire, valued at £3394 per annum. Other mansions
are Dullatur House, Nether Croy, and Greenfaulds ; and
4 proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 16 of between £100 and £500, 12 of from £50
to £100, and 35 of from £20 to £50. Taking in quoad
sacra a small portion of Falkirk parish, Cumbernauld is
in the presbytery of Glasgow and synod of Glasgow and
Ayr ; the living is worth £380. Three public schools —
Cumbernauld, Condorrat, and Arns— and Drumglass
Church school, with respective accommodation for 350,
229, 50, and 195 children, had (18S0) an average at-
tendance of 225, 98, 30, and 171, and grants of £230,
6s. 6d., £90, 3s., £41, 5s., and £1G2, 8s. 6d. Valuation
(1860) £15,204, (1882) £25,098, 15s. Pop. (1801) 1795,
(1831) 3080, (1861) 3513, (1871) 3602, (1881) 4270.—
Old. Sur., sh. 31, 1867.
Cumbrae, Great, Big, or Meikle, an island of Bute-
shire in the Firth of Clyde, 2^ miles E of Bute at the
narrowest, and 1| mile WSW of Largs in Ayrshire.
Resembling a pointed tooth in outline, with Farland
and Portachur Points for fangs, and between them the
town of Millport on isleted Millport Bay, it has an
utmost length of 3| miles from NNE to SSW, viz., from
Tomont End to Portachur Point ; an utmost width,
from E to W, of 2 miles ; a circumference of 10^ miles ;
and an area of 3120^ acres. A road has been lately
formed right round the island, whose immediate sea-
board is a low, flat beach, backed generally by steepish
slopes, and, to the SE, by bolder but verdure-clad cliffs
that rise to 302 feet within 3 furlongs of the shore, and
present in the Lion Rock a quasi-miniature of Arthur's
Seat. The interior is hilly, culminating at 417 feet
towards the centre of the island, to the W of three little
loclis, one of which sends off a rivulet southward to
ilillport Bay. The principal rock is Old Red sandstone,
disru2)ted and overlaid by various traps. The sand-
stone is similar to that of the mainlancl, from which it
appears to have been severed by sea erosion ; the traps
are chiefly greenstone, and in the form of dykes have
strangely altered the sandstone strata, fusing and recon-
.solidating them into a dark quartz -like substance.
Many of the dykes, having better withstood the de-
uudating influence of air and water, stand out boldly
from the sandstone ; and two especially, to the SE, look
like Cyclojjean walls, 100 and 205 feet long, and 40 and
75 feet high. These are deemed, in the island folklore,
to be remains of a huge bridge, reared by witchcraft
ami devilry to link Cumbrae to the Ayrshire coast. The
soil is varied. On the higher parts of the island it is
ligiit, gravelly, and thin, bedded on moss, and covered
witii heath ; in some of the valleys is a fertile loam, and
produces excellent crops ; along the E coast is light and
sandy ; and in the S abounds in marl. Draining, sea-
weed manuring, and liming have effected great improve-
826
CUMLODDEN
ments ; and wheat, early potatoes, and turnips are very
extensively gro\\"n. Most of the farms carry .stocks
of from 20 to 40 dairy cows. The climate is both
healthy and pleasant, less moist than that of Arran
or the mainland. Included once in the Hebrides,
Cumbrae was held by the Norsemen ; and, after
its cession to Scotland, belonged for some time to
the Stewarts, who later mounted the throne. A cairn
on the NE coast and the remains of Billikellet are
the only antiquities, as no traces are left of the camp
that Haco is said to have formed on the eve of the battle
of Largs. In 1609 we find the captain of Dumbarton
Castle complaining that ' Robert Huntar of Huntarston
and Thomas Boyd, provost of Irwyn, had gone to the
Isle of Comra, and tane away all the hawks thereon,'
which hawks, it appears, were a famous breed belonging
to the king. The Garrison is the only mansion, and
its owner, the Earl of Gla.sgow, divides the island
with the Marquis of Bute ; but 7 feuars hold each an
annual value of between £100 and £200, 30 of from £50
to £100, and 59 of from £20 to £50. By itself Great
Cumbrae is a parish in the presbytery of Greenock and
s}'nod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth £160.
Places of worship are noticed under Millport ; and a
public school, with accommodation for 300 children, had
(1880) an average attendance of 185, and a grant of
£156, 14s. Valuation (1882) £16,910. Pop. (1801)
506, (1831) 912, (1861) 1236, (1871) 1613, (1881) 1856.
—Orel. Sur., sh. 21, 1870. See D. Landsborough's
Excursioiis to Arran and the tivo Cumbraes (Edinb. 1851),
and Arch. M'Neilage, ' On the Agi-iculture of Buteshire '
in Trans. Highl. and Ag. Soc, 1881.
Cumbrae, Little, an island of Buteshire,* 1^ mile
SSW of Millport, and about the same distance E of the
southern extremity of Bute and W of the Ayrshire
coast. Triangular in shape, with base to SW and apex
to NNE, it has an utmost length and breadth of If
mile and 7f furlongs, whilst its area is estimated at 700
acres. The surface rises, in a series of terraces, to 409
feet above sea-level toward the middle of the island,
and, with exception of a few patches of potatoes and
ordinary garden produce, is all wild moorland, burrowed
by rabbits, and grazed by scattered sheep. The geolo-
gical formation is Secondary trap, resting on a sub-
stratum of Old Red sandstone. A circular lighthouse,
30 feet high, the earliest but one in Scotland, was built
on the highest point about 1750, and commands a mag-
nificent panoramic view ; but has been superseded by
another lighthouse on the western coast, which was
built in 1826, raises its lantern 106 feet above high
water, and shows a fixed light, visible at a distance of
15 miles. A strong old tower, on an islet oft" the E
coast, believed to have been erected as a watch-post
against the Scandinavian rovers, was surrounded by a
rampart and a fosse, and accessible only by a draw-
bridge. It belonged to the Eglinton family, who still are
proprietors of the island ; gave refuge, in times of trouble,
to that family's friends ; was surprised and burned by
the troops of Oliver Cromwell ; and now is roofless and
dilapidated. On the NE slope of the hill are the tomb
and ruined chapel of St Vey. Valuation (1882) £308.
Pop. (IS.",!) 17, (1861) 20, (1871) 11, (1881) 23.
Cuminestown, a straggling village in Monqnhitter
parish, N Aberdeenshire, 6 miles ESE of Turrift', under
which it has a post office, with money order and savings'
bank departments. Founded in 1763 by Cumine of
Auchry, it contains a branch of the Aberdeen Town and
County Bank and the plain Episcopal chapel of St Luke
(1844 ; 130 sittings), whilst adjoining the parish church
and Free church of Monqnhitter. A fair is held at it on
the Thursday after 27 AprU. Pop. (1841) 477, (1861)
459,(1871)572,(1881)565.
Cumlodden, a quoad sacra parish in Glassary and
Inverary jiarishcs, Argyllshire, on the NW side of Loch
Fyne, its church (1841 ; 300 sittings) standing 1 mile
WSW of Furnace and 8 miles SW of its post-town,
Inverary. Constituted in 1853, it is in the presbytery
* Little Cumbrae is assigned in the census to West Kilbride, but
to Ardrossan in the Ordnance maps and valuation rollM.
CUMLODEN
of Inverarj' and synod of Argyll ; the minister's stipend
is £120. Two public schools, Cunilodden and Furnace,
wdth respective accommodation for 78 and 110 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 48 and 78, and
grants of £23, 10s. "2d. and £78, 6s. Pop. of q. s.
parish (1871) 826, (1881) 837 ; of registration district of
Cumloddcn and Minard (1881) 1142.
Cumloden, a summer residence of the Earl of Gal-
loway in Minnigatf parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, pictur-
esquely seated upon Penkill Water, 2 miles NE of
Newton-Stewart.
Cummertrees, a village and a coast parish of Annandale,
Dumfriesshire. The village stands, f mile inland, on
Pow Water, near Cummertrees station on the Glasgow
and South- Western railway, llf miles ESE of Dumfries,
and 3J W of Annan, under which it has a post office.
The parish, containing also the village of Powfoot,
and comprising, since 1609, the ancient piarish or chapelry
of Trailtrow, is bounded N by St ]\lungo and Hoddam, E
by Annan, S by the Sol way Firth, and W by Ruthwell
and Dalton. Its utmost length, from N to S, is o\ miles ;
its breadth, from E to W, varies between 2^ and 4g
miles ; and its area is 11,747^ acres, of which 2206| are
foreshore and 75^ water. The river Annan winds 2^
miles E by S along all the northern boundary ; and Pow
Water, entering from Ruthwell, flows through the
interior south-eastward to the Firth, which here at high
water has a breadth of 4 to 6 miles, at low of only 3 to 7
fui'longs. At flow of tide, its waste of level sand is
swept by the Solway's celebrated ' bore,' which, rushing
upwards at the speed of 8 or 10 miles an hour, roars
with a tumult heard overfall the parish, and sometimes 12
or 15 miles further northward. The seaboard, 3g miles
long, is low and sandy, in the E alone attaining to 65
feet above sea-level ; but, however featureless by nature,
it has its interest as one of the scenes in Scott's novel of
Redgauntlct. Inland the ground rises slowly northward
to 87 feet near Hurkledale, 160 at Muirhouse, 183 at
Upper Mains, 242 near Norwood, and 350 on Repentance
Hill, from which again it descends rather rapidly to
less than 100 feet along the Annan. The rocks are
mainly Devonian. Limestone, 30 feet thick and contain-
ing 96 per cent, of carbonate of lime, is extensively
worked at Kelhead ; and sandstone has been got from
two quarries. The soil is sandy along the coast ; in
some of the central parts is a fertile loam incumbent
on limestone ; and northward is loam incumbent on
sandstone, whilst elsewhere it ranges from a thin wet
cla}'' incumbent on hard till, and requiring much manure
and labour, to reclaimed bog, drained and improved at
great expense. About 6200 acres are regularly or
occasionally in tillage, and 1300 under wood. In a
field called Bruce's Acres, on the farm of Broom,
Robert Bruce is said to have sustained a severe repulse
from the English. Hoddam Castle and the Tower of
Repentance, the chief antiquities, are separately noticed,
as also are the mansions of Kinmount and Murray-
thwaite. The Marquis of Queensberry is much the largest
proprietor, 5 holding each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 1 of between £100 and £500, and 2 of from
£20 to £50. Giving off a small portion to Bridekirk
quoad sacra parish, Cummertrees is in the presbytery
of Annan and synod of Dumfries ; the living is worth
£200. The church, which was founded by Robert
Bruce has been repeatedly rebuilt and enlarged, and
now contains 450 sittings. Two public schools, Cum-
mertrees and Trailtrow, with respective accomm odation
for 130 and 44 children, had (1880) an average attend-
ance of 86 and 32, and grants of £69, lis. and £39, 10s.
Valuation (1882) £9607, 13s. 5d. Pop. of civil parish,
(1801) 1633, (1831) 1407, (1861) 1232, (1871) 1116,
(1881) 1092; oi quoad sacra parish (1871) 1072, (1881)
1068.— Orr/. Sur., shs. 6, 10, 1863-64.
Cumming's Camp. See Bourtie.
Cuinming's Castle. See Dalsw^inton.
Cummingstown, a straggling coast village in Duffus
parish, Elginshire, 1 J mile E of Burghead. Pop. (1851)
155, (1871) 2SS, (1881)244.
Cumminstown. See Cuminestown.
CUMNOCK, NEW
Cumnock (Celt, cuwar, 'meeting,' and oich, 'water'),
a town of Ayrshire, chiefly in Old Cumnock parish, but
partly also in Auchinleck. It lies in a sheltered hollow,
362 feet above sea-level, on the left bank of winding
Lugar Water, joined here by Glaisnock Burn, 5 furlongs
WSW of one station on the main line of the Glasgow
and South-Western, and ^ mile N by W of another on
its Ayr and Cumnock section, by rail being 15f miles
SE of Kilmarnock, 49i S of Glasgow (39;^ via Barrhead),
33 SW of Carstairs, 6"!^ SW by W of Edinburgh, 42|
NW of Dumfries, and 17:^ E by S of Ayr. With central
square, three spacious streets, and a number of narrow
lanes, it presents a pjleasant, well-to-do appearance, and
has a post office, with money order, savings' bank, and
telegraph departments, branches of the Bank of Scot-
land, the Clydesdale Bank, and the Royal Bank, 15 in-
surance agencies, 3 hotels, a gas company, an athenaium
(1792), a fine cemetery, and 2 Saturday papers —
the Cumnock Express (1866) and the Liberal Cum-
nock Ncics (1880). Thursday is market-day, and
fairs are held on the Thursday in February after Old
Candlemas (cattle and horses), the Thursday after 6
March (race and hiring), the Wednesday after 6 June
(cattle), the Wednesday after 13 July (cattle and hiring),
and the Wednesday after 27 October (fat stock). The
snuff'-box manufacture, so famous 50 years since, is
wholly extinct, transferred to Mauchline ; and though
there are two establishments for the weaving of tweeds
and other woollen stutts, a pottery, and two dairy and
agricultural machine works, mining is now the staple
industry, the neighbourhood abounding in coal and
blackband ironstone. The central square was formerly
the churchyard, and the present churchyard was once the
place of execution ; it contains the graves of two Cove-
nanting worthies, shot here in 1685, and also the ashes
of the Prophet Peden (1626-86), which, buried in Auchin-
leck kirkyard, were forty days after lifted by dragoons,
and reinterred at the foot of the Cumnock gallows. The
parish church, rebuilt in 1867, is a good Second Pointed
structure, with 1100 sittings, stained-glass windows, a
turret clock, and a fine organ, the last erected in 1881.
There are also a Free church, a U.P. church with 900
sittings, a new Congregational church (1882) on the
Auchinleck side of the Lugar, and a handsome Roman
Catholic church (1881-82). The public school, too,
built since the passing of the Education Act, is a very
elegant and commodious edifice, among the finest in the
South of Scotland. Having adopted the Lindsay Act
in 1868, Cumnock is governed by a senior magistrate
and 8 other police commissioners. Its municipal con-
stituency numbered 472 in 1882, when the burgh valua-
tion amounted to £8043. Pop. (1801) 1798, (1851) 2395,
(1861) 2316, (1871) 2903, (1881) 3334, of whom 93 were
in Auchinleck parish. — Orel. Sur., sh. 14, 1863.
Cumnock, New, a village and a parish of Kyle district,
E Ayrshire. Nearly adjoining Afton-Bridgend, Path-
head, and Mansfield, the village stands, 600 feet above
sea-level, on the right bank of the Nith, at the influx of
Afton Water, and has a station on the Glasgow and
South-Western railway, b\ miles SE of Cumnock, and
21| SE of Kilmarnock. At it are a post office, with
money order, savings' bank, and telegraph departments,
branches of the Bank of Scotland and the Royal Bank,
9 insurance agencies, 3 chief inns, and a parish library
(1828) ; a fair is held here on 18 May.
The parish, containing also the villages or hamlets of
Afton-Bridgend, Pathhead, Mansfield, Castle, Connell
Park, Craigbank, and Dalleagles, formed till 1650 part
of Old Cuninoek. It is bounded N by Old Cumnock
and Auchinleck ; E by Kirkconnel and Sanquhar, in
Dumfriesshire ; SE and S by Dairy and Carspliairn, in
Kirkcudbrightshire ; SW by Dalmellington ; and NW
by Ochiltree. Its greatest length is 15 miles from ENE
to WSW, viz., from the Dumfriesshire border near
Glengaber Hill, to the Dalmellington boundary near
Benbain ; its breadth varies between 3| furlongs and
10| miles ; and its area is 48,357^ acres, of which 261J
are water. The Nith, rising in the SW corner, winds
\b'i miles northward, north-eastward, and eastward
3?7
CUMNOCK, OLD
througli the interior, its left bank bcinj:; closely followed,
from the village downwards, by the Glasgow and South-
western railway ; of its numerous feeders here, the
principal is Aftox Water, flowing 9 miles northward
from tlie southern extremity of the parish. The drain-
age goes thus mainly to the Solway, but partly also to
tiie Firth of Clyde, as Black and Guelt "Waters, sub-
allluents of the river Ayr, trace most of the Ochiltree
and Auchinleck boundaries. North-westward of the
village are three little lakes in a row, Meikle Creocli
Loch (3 X 2f furl.), Little Creoch Loch (3 x 1 J furl. ), and
Klack Loch (2 x 1 furl. ). The surface sinking along the
shallow and sluggish Nitli to less than 600 feet above
sea-level, is everywhere hilly, mountainous in the S.
Chief elevations to the left of the Nith from its source
are Prickeny Hill (1G76 feet). Black Hill (1076), Cars-
gailocb Hill (1176), CarnivanHill (1061), High Polquheys
(1027), *Craigdully Hill (1352), Cuiisanx-one Hill
(1547), Clocklowie Hill (1441), and *Niviston Hill
(1507), where asterisks mark those summits that cul-
minate on the confines of the parish ; to the right rise
Enoch Hill (1S65), Benty Cowan (1560), Milray Hill
(1724), Ashmark Hill (1218), Auchincally Hill (1662),
Struthers Brae (1778), Wedder Hill (1961) Dalhanna Hill
(1177), Blackwood Hill (898), Hare Hill or the Knipe
(1950), Bl.^ckckaig Hill (2229), *Blacklarg Hill (2231),
*Alwhat (2063), and *Albang (2100). The rocks in the S
are chiefly Siluiian, in the N carboniferous. Limestone
and sandstone, the latter coarse-grained and yellowish
white in hue, have both been worked in several quarries ;
and coal, partly cannel, partly sj^lint, is mined at Afton,
Bank, Knockshinnock, Lanemark, Pathhead, and South
Boig. Galena has been got in considerable quantities on
the Afton estate ; and ironstone occurs plentifully in
bands and balls. The soil of the Silurian tracts is
chiefly of a gravelly nature, and that of the Carboni-
ferous tracts is generally argillaceous. Fully 6000
acres have been reclaimed from a waste or almost un-
profitable condition since 1818 ; and now about 9300
acres are either regularly or occasionally in tillage, whilst
some 270 are under wood. An ancient tumulus on
Polquhaise farm was found, on removal, to contain a
sarcophagus and fragments of human bones. One
baronial fortalice stood near the village, another at
Blackci'aig, and a third near the source of the Nith ; but
all have disappeared and left no vestige. In March 1882,
at Craigs, near the foot of Blaekcraig, in lonely Glen
Alton, a shepherd found 40 gold and over 140 silver
coins of James V. ilansfield House, Lochside House,
Craigdarroch, and Bank House are the principal man-
sions ; and 10 proprietors hold each an annual value of
i;500 and upAvards, 5 of between £100 and £500, 3 of
from £50 to £100, and 20 of from £20 to £50. New
Cumnock is in the presbytery of Ayr and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth £250. The
parish church, between Afton-Bridgend and New Cum-
nock villages, was built in 1832, and is a handsome
edifice, containing 1000 sittings. There are also three
Free churches — New Cumnock, Afton, and Bank ; and
tliree public schools — Bank, Dalleagles, and New Cum-
nock— with respective accommodation ibr 160, 85, and
450 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 182,
75, and 295, and grants of £127, lis., £30, 18s. 4d.,
and £249, 18s. Valuation (1860) £17,496, (1882)
£34,592, 13s. 6d., including £2934 for railway. Pop.
(1801) 1381, (1831) 2184, (1861) 2891, (1871) 3434,
(1881) Z78\. —Ord. Sitr., shs. 15, 14, 1864-63.
Cumnock, Old, a {)arish in the E of Kyle district, Ayr-
shire. It contains the station and most of the town of
Cumnock, besidesasmall partof Lr(!AulK(iN-wouKs,and
formed one narish with New Cumnock till 1650, when,
being curtailed by the separation of New Cumnock, it
changed its name from Cunmock to Old Cumnock. It
is bounded N and NE by Auchinleck, E and S by New
Cumnock, and W by Ochiltree. Its utmost length, from
E to \V, is 9^ miles ; its Ijreadth, from N to S, varies
between 9 furlongs and 4^ miles; and its area isl4,20!i^
acres, of which 69.^ are water. All the Auchinleck
border is traced, first, Viy Guelt Water, running 2S miles
328
CUNNINGHAME
north-westward to Glenraore Water ; next, by Glen-
more Water, running 4g miles west-north-westward to
form Lugar Water ; lastly, by the Lugar itself, wind-
ing 7^ miles west-by-southward : and a number of burns
flow northward through the interior to these three
streams. In the NW, near Pennyfadzeoch, where the
Lugar quits the parish, the surface sinks to close on 300
feet above sea-level, thence rising to 693 near Whitehill,
1198 at Hogh Mount, 764 near Sliield, 1081 at Avisyard
Hill, 1034 at Airds Hill, and 1352 at CraigdoUyeart
Hill in the SE. The scenery, tame in places, in most
presents a pleasing, finely cultivated aspect, and along
the Lugar is often highly picturesque. The roc;ks are
chiefly carboniferous. Limestone and sandstone, both of
excellent quality, are worked ; and bituminous and
anthracitic coal is mined. The soil by the Liigar is
frequently a fine alluvium, and elsewhere is mostly of a
clayey nature, incumbent on strong till ; but on the
higher lands is mossy. About 2000 acres are moorland,
500 or so are planted, and the rest are all under the
plough. The chief antiquities are ruins of Ferringzean
Castle within the policies of Dumfries House, traces of
Boreland Castle on the S side of the parish, vestiges of
a small pre-Reformation chapel on the farm of Chapel-
house, and graves or memorials of several martyrs of the
Solemn League and Covenant. Hugh Logan, ' the
Laird of Logan ' and celebrated wit of Ayrshire, resided
on Logan estaite ; and James Taylor, the associate of
Miller of Dalswinton in the invention of steam-navigation,
superintended the mines on that of Dumfries House
about the close of the 18th century. ]\Iansions, all
separately noticed, are Dumfries House, Garrallan, Glais-
nock, and Logan ; and 6 proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 7 of between £100 and £500,
21 of from £50 to £100, and 28 of Irom £20 to £50.
Old Cumnock is in the presbytery of Ayr and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth £315, or £365
with voluntary supplement from heritors. Garrallan
public, Old Cumnock public, and Old Cumnock Roman
Catholic school, with respective accommodation for 100,
600, and 216 children, had (1880) an average attendance
of 93, 574, and 140 children, and grants of £75, 3s.,
£471, 9s., and £128, 3s. 6d. Valuation (1860) £14,424,
(1882) £27,225, 12s. 9d., including £4899 for railways.
Pop. (1801) 1991, (1831) 2763, (1861) 3721, (1871) 4041,
(1881) 4860.— 6')-d Sur., shs. 14, 15, 1863-64.
Cumrue, Loch. See Kirkmichael, Dumfriesshire.
Cumston. See Compstone.
Cunnigar, an artificial mound in Midcalder parish,
Edinburghshire, between Alidcalder village and the
river Almond. On it witches are said to have been
burned in bygone days.
Cunninghame, a poor-law combination and a terri-
torial district in Ayrshire. The combination includes
only part of the district, yet extends southward into
Kyle, comprisingthe parishes of Ardrossan, Beith, Dairy,
Dreghorn, Dundonald, Dunlop, Galston, Irvine, Kil-
birnie. West Kilbride, Kilmarnock, Kilwinning, Loudon,
Stevenston, Stewartou, and Symington. The poorhouse
contains accommodation for 279 inmates. Pop. (1871)
102,015, (1881) 106,014.— The territorial district is the
northern one of the three districts into which Ayrshire is
divided. It comprises the parishes of Ardrossan, Beith,
Dairy, Dreghorn, part of Dunlop, Fcnwick, Irvine, Kil-
birnie. West Kilbride, Kilmarnock, Kilmaurs, Kilwin-
ning, Largs, Loudon, Stevenston, and Stewarton ; and
contains the towns and villages of Ardrossan, Saltcoats,
Beith, Dairy, Dunlop, Fenwick, Irvine, KilViirnie, Glen-
garnock. West Kilbride, Kilmarnock, Kilmaurs, Cross-
house, Kilwinning, Largs, Fairlie, Newmilns, Darvel,
Stevenston, and Stewarton. It is bounded N and NE
by Renfrewshire, E by Lanarkshire, S by the river
Irvine, which separates it from Kyle, SW and W by
the Firth of Clyde. Its greatest length from N W to SE
is 29i miles, and its greatest breadth in the oj)posite
direction 12;i' miles. The surface is jdeasantly diversi-
lii'd witli liill and dale, and rises, in the N W, into con-
siderable heights, but cannot be said to have any
mountains. The chief streams, besides the Irvine, are
CUNNINGHAMHEAD
the Rye, the Caaf, the Garnock, the Dusk, the Lugton,
the Auiiick, the Fenwick, and the Craufurdlarul or
Kilmarnock. The only considerable sheet of fresh
water is Kilbirnie Loch. Trap rocks constitute most of
the hills, but carboniferous rocks prevail elsewhere, and
are rich in sandstone, limestone, ironstone, and coal.
Extensive iron-works are at Dairy and Glengarnock, and
very productive coal mines are in various places. The
dairy husbandry rose to high perfection in Dunlop,
Beith, and Stewarton in the latter part of last century, and
it has ever since maintained a high character thi'ougliout
most of the district. The ancient family of De Morville,
the constables of Scotland, were in the r2th and 13th cen-
turies proprietors of almost all the land, and they are
supposed to have had their residence at either Glengar-
nock or Southannan. Many other families subsequently
became proprietors ; and not a few of them, particularly
those of Eglinton, Gleneairn, and Loudon, took a lead-
ing part in the affairs of the kingdom during its most
agitated times. The district appears to have been at
one time under the control of the corporation of Irvine,
and, for a long period prior to the abolition of feudal
jurisdictions, it formed a bailiwick under the Earls
of Eglinton. Valuation (1882) £434,248, including
£38,512 for railways. Pop. (1831) 63,453, (1861) 95,593,
(1881) 105,231. See Ayrshire and Cunninghame,
Topographised by Timothy Pont, A.M., 1604-8, %oith
Continuations and illustrative Notices by the late James
Dobie of Crummock (1876).
Cunninghamhead, a mansion in Dreghorn parish,
Ayrshire, near Cunnmghamhead station on the Glasgow
and South-Western railway, this being 4 miles WNW
of Kilmarnock. Its owner, Richard Kerr, Esq. (b.
1845 ; sue. 1853), holds 560 acres in the shire, valued
at £1440 per annum.
Cunninghar. See Tillicoultry.
Cunning or Cunnan, a holm of about 50 acres at the
right side of the mouth of the river Doon, in Ayrshii-e.
It formerly lay on the left side of the river, but came to
be on the right side in consequence of the river altering
its course ; and, though now in Kyle district, it belongs
to the Carrick parish of Maybole.
Cunningsburgh. See Conningsburgh and DuN-
ROSSNESS.
Cunnoquhie, an estate, with a handsome modern
mansion, in Monimail parish, Fife, 1 mile NE of Moni-
mail church, and 4^ miles W by N of Cupar. Its
owner, Mrs W. Pitcairn, holds 561 acres in the shire,
valued at £937 per annum.
Cunzierton, a hill (1100 feet) in Oxnam parish, Rox-
burghshire, 6^ miles ESE of Jedburgh. It is crowned
witb a large, double-trenched, ancient Caledonian camp ;
and is engirt, at about 150 feet from the summit, with
a defensive mound.
Cupar, the north-western of the four divisions of Fife,
consisting chiefly of the upper and middle basin of the
Eden, and of the parts of the seaboard of the Firth of
Tay from the boundary with Perthshire to a point a few
hundred yards W of the original Tay Bridge, and nearly
opposite Dundee. It comprises the parishes of Abdie,
Auchtermuchty, Balmerino, Ceres, Collessie, Creich,
Cults, Cupar, Dairsie, Dunbog, Falkland, Flisk, Kettle,
KUmany, Logie, Monimail, Moonzie, Newburgh, and
Strathmiglo, with parts of Abernethy and Arngask. Its
length north-eastward is about 17^ miles ; and its
breadth is about 10 miles. See Fife.
Cupar or Cupar-Fife, a town and a parish of central
Fife. A royal and parliamentary burgh, the political
capital of the shire, and a seat of considerable trade, the
town stands 100 feet above sea-level, amid undulating and
richly-wooded environs, mainly on the left bank of the
Eden. By road it is 12g miles S of Dundee, 10 W by S
of St Andrews, and 30 NNE of Edinburgh ; whilst by
the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee section of the North
British it is 5^ miles NE of Ladybank Junction, 25^
ESE of Perth, 4"4 ENE of Stirling, 13;| NNE of Thornton
Junction, 29 NE of Dunfermline, \i^ NNE of Edin-
burgh, llf SSW of Tayport, and 16^ S of Dundee via
the new Tay Bridge. It had a royal charter from
CUPAR
David II. in 1363, but prior to that appears to have
been a royal burgh, and has made some figure in history.
A castle which stood on the eminence now called School
Hill, but which has utterly disapjjearod, was the seat of
the Macdulfs, Earls of Fife, who first are heard of in the
reign of David I. (1124-53). Almost a hundred years
earlier, according to Leighton's Fife Illustrated, ' when
the castle of Cupar was the residence of Macduif, the
lord or Maormore of Fife, it was the scene of that horrid
tragedy, the murder of his wife and children by Macbeth,
of which Shakespeare has made such a beautiful use in
his Y>l-a,y oi Macbeth.' But Skene has shown that the
whole well-known tale of Macduff, ' Thane of Fife ' — a
title unknown to history — appears first in the Chronicle
of Fordun and his interpolator Bower, i.e., belongs to
the 14th and 15th centuries {Celtic Scotland, iii. 303-306,
1880). The court of the Stewartry of Fife was lield
at this castle till the forfeiture of Albany, Earl of Fife,
in 1425, when it was transferred to Falkland. The
proverbial expression, ' He that will to Cupar maun to
Cupar,' alludes to the times when Cupar was the seat
of the ancient courts of justice for Fife, and signifies
much the same as ' A wilful man must have his own
way.' Theatrical representations, called Mysteries or
Moralities, professing to serve purposes such as now are
served by at once the pulpit and the press, were ex-
hibited on the northern slopes of the School Hill, then
called the Playfield, for many ages till the Reformation
— among them Sir David Lindsay's Satyre of the Thrie
Estaitis (1535), that scathing attack on the priests,
which has been termed ' by far the greatest interlude ir
English literature.' Whether Sir David was born in
Monimail at the Mount or in East Lothian is a moot
question, but there is no doubt that the Mount was his
property and frequent residence, and that he sat for Cupar
in the parliaments of 1542 and 1543. Many of the
kings and princes of Scotland, including nearly all the
Jameses, Mary of Guise, Queen Maiy, and Charles II. ,
visited the town, and were entertained by its magistrates,
Charles getting ' some desert to his foure houres in the
Tolbooth, and a musicke song or two from Mr Andro
Andersone, scholemaster ther for the tyme,' 6 July 1650.
John Knox, in 1560, preached here to the Lords of the
Congregation ; and a noted conference was held in the
previous year, on Tarvit Hill, \% mile to the S, between
the Congregation and Mary of Guise, the Queen Regent.
The Rev. William Scot, who wrote the Jpologetical
Narration of the State of the Kirk of Scotland, was
minister of Cupar from 1595 till 1642, and at his own
expense erected the spire of the parish church, which
still exists. A handsome mural tombstone to his memory
is still to be seen in the churchyard, though its Latin
inscription is quite illegible. In the churchyard, too,
is a plain upright stone inscribed : — ' Here lies interred
the heads of Laur. Hay and Andrew Pitulloch, who
sulFered martyrdom at Edinburgh, July 13th, 1681, for
adhering to the Word of God and Scotland's covenanted
work of reformation ; and also one of the hands of David
Hackston of Rathillet, who was most cruelly murdered
at Edinburgh, July 30th, 1680, for the same cause.'
Which Hackston was one of the twelve murderers of
Archbishop Sharp on Magus Muir in 1679. At Cupar,
in 1718, the Archbishop's descendant. Sir James Sharp,
Lord George Murray, and Sir David Threipland of
Fiugask were arraigned for their share in the '15, but
the proceedings against them proved abortive. John,
Lord Campbell (1781-1861), Chancellor of England, was
born in a house still standing in the Crossgate, his
father being parish minister ; and the Life of him
by his daughter, published in 1880, contains much of
interest relating to Cupar. Another native was the
portrait and landscape painter, Charles Lees, R.S.A.
(1800-80).
Old Cupar lay all on the left or N side of the Eden,
and had six gates or ports at thorouglifares which mostly
retain their ancient names. The West Port stood at
the W end of lionnygate ; the Lady Port towards the
northern extremity of Lady Wynd ; the East Port
almost opposite the Town llall ; the Bridge Port at
329
Seal of Cupar.
CUPAR
a point where the Eden now is crossed by the South
Bridge leading to the North British station ; the Mill
Port at Millgate ; and the Kirkgate Port at the W end
of Kirkgate. The present town comprises three principal
streets, several lanes and alleys, some suburbs on the N
and E and AV, and a considerable suburb on the S side
of the Eden ; containing many new houses, it presents
a well-built, cleanly, thri\ing "appearance. It has been
lighted with gas since 1830 ; and in December 1876 a
new water-supply was introduced from two storing ponds
at Clatto and Skelpie, about 4^ miles SSW of the town.
The Town Hall
stands at the junc-
tion of St Catherine
Street and Cross-
gate, and is a plain,
neat 'structure, sur-
mounted by a cupola
and belfry. The
County Buildings,
in St Catherine
Street, were en-
larged in 1836 and
again in 1872, pre-
sent a neat though
plain facade, and
contain the county
hall, the sheriff
court - room, and
offices for the public
clerks. In the county hall are a fine portrait of John, Earl
of Hopetoun, by Sir Henry Raeburn ; a very valuable por-
trait of Lord kellie in his official robes, by Sir David
Wilkie ; portraits of George II., George III., and Queen
Charlotte, by Ramsay, son of the 'Gentle Shepherd;'
besides a copy of a good portrait of Lord Elgin, Viceroy
of India, and marble busts of his lordship and of the
late J. H. E. TVemyss of Wemyss and Torrie, M.P.
The old county prison, on the S side of the Eden, now
serves as the Fife Artillery Militia storehouse. The new
prisonoccupiesaconspicuous site a little to the NE of the
town, and built, at a cost of over £3000, on a greatly
improved plan, is now under Government management,
aud has accommodation for 33 male and 13 female
prisoners. Opposite the TowTi Hall stood an ancient
cross, which, comprising an octagonal base and a round
pillar surmounted by a unicorn, was taken down in
1817. Its pillar was presented, at hir own request,
to Colonel Wemyss of Wemyss Hall, and by him was
re-erected on the lower northern slopes of Tarvit Hill
(to the S of the town), at the very spot on which, it is
believed, the treaty between Mary of Guise and the
Lords of the Congregation was subscribed. The Corn
Exchange, built in 1862 at a cost of £4000, is an edifice
in the Gothic style, with a spire 136 feet high ; it
contains 46 stalls for market business, and was designed
to serve also as a music and lecture hall, but has not
good acoustic qualities. The railway station stands on
the S side of the Eden, and is handsome and com-
modious ; near it, on the Kirkcaldy road, is a statue by
Mr Ho\yie of Edinburgh, of the Disruption worthy,
David Maitland Makgill Crichton, Esq. of Rankcilour
(1801-51). One piece of ground for a public park was
gifte<l to the town in 1871 by Provost Hood, another,
adjoining, in 1872, by Provost Nicholson. The Lady
Burn, intervening, was then arched over, and the two
gifts, with the original cart-haugh, now form a continuous
park, comprising some 15 acres of green meadow, and
torming one of the most valualde amenities of the burgh.
The original ])arish church stood 3 furlongs NW
of the town, but within the old walls, on a rising
ground near Springfield House ; became a ruin in the
early part of the 15th century ; and was completely
obliterated in 1759. Its successor, in Kirkgate Street,
built in 1415, is said to have been a beautiful Gothic
structure of poli.shed .sandstone, measuring 133 feet
in length by 54 in width ; but it, too, fell into decay,
and was taken down in 1785. The present church,
then erected, partly on the same site, is a plain unattrac-
830
CUPAR
tive building, containing 1300 sittings. The church of
1415 had a tower, to which the spire already mentioned
was added by Mr Scot in the beginning of the 17th
century ; and this tower and spire are separated from
the present church by an intervening vestry or session-
house, into which part of one of the aisles of the
former church was converted. The ancient church of
St ^lichacl, on the S side of the Eden, crowned a
a small conical eminence, St Michael's Hill, now mostly
covered with the plantation that shelters the NE en-
trance to Tarvit House, the seat of James Home Rigg,
Esq. of DoAvnfield. The present church of St ]\Iichael
stands in the town, was erected in 1857 at a cost of
£1800, and, altered and improved in 1871, contains 810
sittings. With a legacy of £7500, bequeathed by the
late Sir David Baxter of Kilmaron, a tine new Free
church, mixed Gothic in style, Mith tower and spire 135
feet high, was built (1876-77) on the N side of the Bonny-
gate. Other places of worship are Bonnygate U. P. church
^1866 ; a handsome structure), Boston U. P. church (1850),
a Baptist chapel, a Roman Catholic chapel (1879 ; the
upper flat of a dwelling-house), and St James's Epis-
copal church. The last stands on or very near the site
of St Mary's Dominican friary, which, founded by one
of the Earls of Fife, was by James V. annexed to St
Andrews, and the last remnant of which, a part of
its church, consisting of fine sandstone masonry,
was removed at the forming of St Catherine Street,
now containing the Episcopal church. This, as rebuilt
about 1870, is a neat Gothic structure of white freestone,
with nave and one side aisle, and with a new organ,
erected in 1876, that far surpasses any other in the
county. Two burgh schools, dating back to the reign
of Charles I., were in 1823 superseded by an academy,
which in turn gave place, in 1831, to a Madras academy,
founded and endowed b}' the late Dr Andrew Bell.
New buildings were then erected, but the old ones
also were retained ; and the whole may be described as
sufficiently good and commodious, though the playground
is somewhat small, extended about 1865, but since
curtailed by the erection of additional class-rooms and
sheds for shelter of the pupils. In the middle of the
original playground there stood till about 1860 an
old one-story building, occupied as a sewing school
at one end, and at the other as a class-room for
pupils whose fees were provided by the parochial board or
other local charity. This was superseded by the erec-
tion in Kirkgate of a modern suite of class-rooms, which
in ISSl were greatly enlarged, mostly out of accumula-
tions of an annual sum of £40 bequeathed by the late
Alexander Bogie of Balass and Newmill ' for the
education of poor children ' in Cupar parish. This
Kirkgate school and the academy are both under the
management of Dr Bell's trustees (the lord-lieutenant
of the county and Cupar parish ministers, provost,
and dean of the guildry), in whom is vested the estate
of Egmore in Galloway, which in 1881 yielded £746
towards the expenses of the institution. The upper
school of the Madras Academy gives instruction in
English, classical and modern languages, mathematics,
drawing, etc. , to 200 pupils ; whilst its lower school
and South Side or Kirkgate school, with respective
accommodation for 288 and 450 children, had (1880)
an average attendance of 296 and 211, and grants of
£246, 9s. and £153, 6s. The Baxter Institute, at West
Port, for the education of young ladies, was built and
endowed in 1871 by the late Sir David Piaxter. The
Duncan Institute (1870), in Crossgate, founded for the
working classes of Cupar, Dairsie, and Kilconquhar l)y the
late Miss Duncan of Edcngrove, is a handsome edifice in
the Scotch baronial style, with a spire 114 feet high ;
and contains 2 reading-rooms, a library, a recreation
room, a lecture hall, a musoum, and a billiard room.
A handsome and commodious Parish Sabbath School
Hall, lately erected at a cost of over £2000, contains a
memorial window to its founder, the late John Pitcairn,
Esq. of Pitcullo. Other institutions are a local asso-
ciation of the Educational Institute of Scotland, 2
amateur musical associations, a young men's Christian
CUPAR
association, an Established Church 3'oung men's mutual
improvement society, a floral and horticultural society,
chess, ciarliug, golf, cricket, bowling, and athletic games'
clubs, 4 masonic lodges, a property investment company,
2 friendly societies, a temperance society, and Good
Templars' and Foresters' lodges.
The town has a head post office, with money order,
savings' bank, insurance, and railway telegraph depart-
ments, offices of the Royal, National, Commercial,
Clydesdale, and British Linen Co.'s banks, a national
security savings' bank, 23 insui-ance agencies, 5 hotels,
and 3 weekly newspapers — the Thursday Liberal Fife
Herald (1822), the Thurstlay Conservative Fifeshire
Journal (1833), and the Saturday Fife Neics (1870).
A weekly corn market is held on Tuesday ; a horse
and cattle market on the first, and an auction mart
for cattle on the first and third, Tuesdays of every
month ; fairs and feeing markets on the first Tuesday
of August and either on 11th November or the fol-
lowing Tuesday. Large trade is done in the selling and
grinding of corn ; and other industries are brewing,
malting, dyeing, tanning, flax-spinning, and the weaving
of all kinds of linens ; whilst much business accrues
from the town's position and character as the political
capital of the county. It was distinguished, too, at
one time for the production of beautiful specimens of
typography and the publication of many useful books,
Cupar being then the seat of publication for St Andrews
University. The earliest extant charter constituting
Cupar a royal burgh is David II. 's of 1363. The burgh
is governed by a provost, 3 bailies, a dean of guild, a
treasurer, and 12 councillors, who also act as police
commissioners ; and it unites with St Andrews, Crail,
Kilrenny, the Anstruthers, and Pittenweem in sending
a member to parliament. A guildry exists apart from
the dean of guild court, a shadowy relic of the old times
of monopoly, that lingers on chiefly or solely because
its president is ex officio a trustee of the Madras academy.
Five incorporated trades — hammermen, wrights, weavers,
tailors, and fleshers — also prolong a formal existence from
the past. The municipal constituency numbered 725
and the parliamentary 733 in 1882, when the annual
value of real property within the burgh amounted to
£20,830, 10s. 4d. (£15,178 in 1871), whilst the corpora-
tion revenue for 1881 was £193. Pop. of parliamentary
burgh (1851) 5605, (1861) 5029, (1871) 5105, (1881)
5010. Houses (1881) 1118.
The parish, containing also the villages of Brighton,
Springfield, and Gladney, comprises the ancient parish
of St Michael-Tarvit, annexed in 1618. It is bounded
N by Kilmany and Dairsie, E by Dairsie and Kemback,
S by Ceres and Cults, W by Monimail, and NW by
Moonzie. Its greatest length, from N to S, is 3g miles ;
its greatest breadth, from E to W, is 3^ miles ;
and its area is 5737 acres, of which IJ are water.
The river Eden winds 4| miles north-eastward and east-
north-eastward along the Ceres border and through tlie
interior ; it originally traced all the boundary between
Cupar proper and St Michael-Tarvit, but, in conse-
quence of an artificial straightening of its course at
the town, has now a small portion of St Michael's
en its N bank. Lady Burn, coming in from Moni-
mail, and receiving an affluent from the confines of
Dairsie, drains most of the northern district, and falls
into the Eden at the E end of the town. The sur-
face is beautifully diversified by undulations or rising-
grounds, and makes a rich display of culture and wood.
In the extreme E the Howe of Fife or Stratheden
declines to less than 80 feet above sea-level, thence
rising to 313 feet at Hawklaw and 400 at Kilmaron
Hill on the left, and to 600 at Tarvit Hill on the
right, side of the Eden. A ridgy mound of fresh-water
gravel, commencing at the School Hill, the site of the
ancient castle of Cupar, strikes northward up the flank
of Lady Burn, and runs in a serpentine direction till it
culminates in a sort of peak — the Mote or Moat Hill,
traditionally said to have been the meeting-place of
councils of war and courts of justice under tlie ' Thanes
of Fife.' Sandstone conglomerate prevails along the
CURLING HALL
Lady Burn, and elsewhere white sandstone of excellent
building quality ; whilst trap rocks, chiefly greenstone
and clinkstone, form most of the rising-grounds. The
sandstone is worked in four quarries, the greenstone in
two. The soil, in the N and the E, is chiefly a friable
loam on a gravelly subsoil ; in the S and the W, is
more inclined to sand ; but, almost everywhere, has
been highly improved, and produces the finest crops.
The mansions are Kilmaron, Tarvit, Springfield, Wemjss
Hall, Dalgairn (formerly Dalyell Lodge), Hilton, Cairnie,
Pitbladdo, Prestonhall, Foxton, Ferrybank, Belmore,
Bellfield, Bonville, Blalowan, and Westfield, and most
of them are separately noticed. Six proprietors hold
each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 28 of between
£100 and £500, 43 of from £50 to £100, and 93 of from
£20 to £50. Cupar is the seat of a presbytery in the
synod of Fife ; and it includes the greater part of the
quoad sacra parish of Spkingfield. The charge is
collegiate, the two ministers officiating alternately in
the parish church and St Michaers,'and the living of the
first charge being worth £448, of the second £411.
An ancient chapel stood on the lands of Kilmaron.
Brighton public school, with accommodation for 67
children, had (1880) an average attendance of 37, and a
grant of £26, 4s. Valuation (1866) £25,280, 6s. 5d.,
(1882) £36,480, 8s. iA.,plus £1680 for railway. Pop.
(1801) 4463, (1831) 6473, (1861) 6750, (1871) 7102,
(1881) nOi.—Ord. Sur., shs. 48, 40, 1868-67.
The presbytery of Cupar comprehends the quoad civilia
parishes of Abdie, Auchtermuchty, Balmerino, Ceres,
CoUessie, Creich, Cults, Cupar, Dairsie, Dunbog, Falk-
land, Flisk, Kettle, Kilmany, Logic, Monimail, Moonzie,
Newburgh, and Strathmiglo, and the quoad sacra
parishes of Freuchie, Ladybank, and Springfield. Pop.
(1871) 30,679, (1881) 26,693, of whom 7507 were com-
municants of the Church of Scotland in 1878. — The Free
Church also has a presbytery of Cupar, M-ith churches
at Newburgh, Auchtermuchty, Ceres, CoUessie, Cupar,
Dairsie, Falkland, Flisk, Kettle, Logic, Monimail, and
Strathmiglo, which together had 2307 communicants in
1881. — Lastly the United Presbyterian Synod has a pres-
bytery of Cupar, with 2 churches in Auchtermuchty, 2
in Ceres, 2 in Cupar, and 6 in respectively Freuchie,
Kettle, Lathones, Pitlessie, Rathillet, and St Andrews,
the 12 having 2746 members in 1880.
Cupar-Angus. See Coupar-Angus.
Cupar-Grange. See Coupar-Grange.
Cuparmuir, a village in Cupar parish, Fife, If mile
W of Cupar town. It consists of a few scattered cot-
tages, with a tile-work and a sandstone quarry.
Cupinshay. See Copenshay.
Cur, a stream of Strachur parish, Cowal, Argyllshire,
formed by two head-streams at an altitude of 380 feet,
and running 6f miles south-westward and south-east-
ward to the head of Loch Eck. Its course, for the
first 2 miles, is rough and rapid, and forms several fine
cascades ; but lower down becomes smoother, and makes
a number of beautiful turns. — Ord. Sur., sh. 37, 1876.
Curate's Steps, a small pass at the side of the river
Ayr, near Sorn Castle, in Sorn parish, Ayi'shire. It
got its name from a tradition that an obnoxious Epis-
copalian minister fled by it from his enraged flock, in
the times of forced Episcopacy prior to 1688.
Curate's Well, a copious intermittent spring on the
glebe of Dunsyre, in Dunsyro parish, Lanarkshire. It
issues from two circular patches of soft sand, engirt with
very hard clay and gravel ; and at intervals of five or ten
minutes it bubbles up as if emitting air.
Curgarff. See Cougarf.
Curgie, a small bay in Kirkmaiden parish, Wigtown-
shiri', on the W side of Luce bay, 3 miles N of the Mull
of Galloway.
Curlee or Caerlee. See Innerleithen.
Curling Hall, an estate, with a mansion, in Largs
parish, Ayrshire, near tlic shore, a little S of the town.
It includes part of the battlefield of Lakgs, and contains
a memorial of the battle, in the form of a sculptured
stone, with an inscribed copper plate affixed to it by Dr
John Cairnie in 1823.
831
CURE
Curr, a hill (1849 feet) in llorehattle parish, Rox-
burghshire, oi miles E by S of Morebattle village, and
^ mile from the English Border.
Curreath, an estate, with a modern mansion, in Dun-
donald parish, Ayrshire, 3 miles ENE of Troon.
Ciirrie, a village and a parish of W central Edinburgh-
shire. The village, a pleasant little pkce, stands on the
steep left bank of the Water of Leith. here spanned by
a 14th century bridge, 6 miles SW of Edinburgh, having
one station (Curriehill) on the main line of the Cale-
donian, and another (Currie) on its Balerno loop ; at it
is a post office, \vith money order, savings' bank, insur-
ance, and telegraph departments. Pop. (1861) 345, (1871)
329, (1881) 255.
The parish containing also the villages of Balerno
and Hermiston, is bounded N by Corstorphine, E by
Corstorphine and Colinton, SE by Penicuik and the
Listonshiels section of Kirkliston, SW by Midcalder,
W by Kirknew'ton, and NW by Ratho. Its utmost
length, from NNE to SSW, is 8^ miles ; its breadth
varies between 4^ furlongs and 4^ miles ; and its area is
11,236 acres, of which 132 J are water. The Water of
Leitii, coming in from the uplands of Midcalder, winds
1\ mile north-north-eastward along the Kirknewton bor-
der, next 6 miles east-north-eastward across the middle
of the parish, receiving by the way Dean, Cock, and
BAVEL.4.W Burns, and other still smaller tributaries.
Near the Colinton and Penicuik boundaries lie Clubbie-
dean, Harelaw, and Threipmuir reservoirs, supplying
the Edixbuugii waterworks ; and the Union Canal runs
2| miles through the northern interior in the \dcinity of
Hermiston. The surface, in the N forming part of the
Corstorphine plain, has a general southerly rise to the
Pentland Hills from less than 200 feet above sea-level to
800 on Warlaw Hill, 1250 near Craigenterry, and 800 at
East Rig. The rocks belong mainly to the Calciferous
Limestone series, traversed at Ravelrig by a mass of
diorite ; whilst just to the SE of Threipmuir reservoir is
one of three separate localities among the Pentlands,
where rocks of Ujiper Silurian age are so surrounded and
covered unconformably by the Lower Old Red sandstone,
that their relations to the Lower Silurian series can no-
where be ascertained. Excellent 9:indstone abounds
along the left bank of the Water of Leith, especially in
the neighbourhood of Balerno, and has been largely
(juarried ; limestone of inferior quality has been worked
ou the Malleny estate ; and a German, one Joachim Gonel,
proposed in 1683 to open a copper-mine near East Mill,
but the scheme would seem to have fallen to the ground.
The soil of the uplands is moorish ; but that of the low
tracts is rich and highly cultivated, the rental of one or
two farms here having increased 700 per cent, within
the last 150 years. Dairy-farming and sheep-farming
are also carried on ; and within the parish are 2 large
paper-mills and 2 snuff manufactories. Sibbald and
other antiquaries identified Currie with 'Coria,' the
cluef seat of the Damnonii in the 2d century, a.d.,
which Skene, however, places at Carstairs ; among its
antiquities are a supposed Roman station on Ravelrig
Hill and the ruins of Lennox Tower and Curriehill
Castle. Illustrious natives or residents were Sir Thomas
Craig (1538-1608), author of Jus Feudalc ; the Lord
Clerk Register, Sir John Skene of Curriehill (1549-1612),
legal antiquary ; his son. Lord President Sir James
Skene (1580-1633) ; Sir Archibald Johnston, Lord War-
riston (1010-63), lawyer and statesman ; Jas. Anderson,
LL.D. (1739-1808), wTiter on agriculture ; General
Thomas Scott of Malleny (1745-1841) ; John Marshall,
Lord Curriehill (1794-1868) ; and his son and namesake
CUTTLEHILL
(1827-81), also an eminent judge. The principal man-
sions are Baberton, Curriehill, Hermiston, Lennox Lea,
Lyraphoy, Malleny, Ravelrig, and Riccarton ; and 13
proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and up-
wards, 9 of between £100 and £500, 9 of from £50 to
£100, and 25 of from £20 to £50. Currie is in the pres-
bytery of Edinburgh and synod of Lothian and Tweed-
dale ; the living is worth £395. The parish church, at
the village, successor to one that down to the reign o.
Charles I. appears to have been subordinate to the
collegiate church of Corstorphine, was built about 1785,
and contains 800 sittings. A Free church for Currie
and Colinton stands at Juniper Green ; at Balerno
are a U. P. church and St Mungo's Episcopal chapel;
and two public schools, Balerno and Currie, and Balerno
Episcopal school, with respective accommodation for
176, 200, and 126 children, had (1880) an average
attendance of 103, 122, and 57, and grants of £82,
5s. 6d., £95, 18s., and £39, 4s. Valuation (I860)
£18,692, (1882) £32,217, including £8443 for railways
and waterworks. Pop. (1801) 1112, (1831) 1883, (1861)
2248, (1871) 2360, (1881) 2390.— Orc^. Sur., sh. 32, 1857.
Currie, an estate, with a mansion, in Borthwick parish,
Edinburghshire. The mansion, standing on a head-
stream of Gore Water, 2\ miles SE of Gorebridge, con-
sists partly of a former inn, partly of excellent additions,
and reposes among sheltering wood under the shadow
of Borthwick Castle. Its owner, Stuart Brown, Esq.
(b. 1818), holds 904 acres in the shire, valued at £866
per annum. A previous mansion, demolished about
1809, stood on a rising-gi-ound overlooking the old
church and valley of Borthwick.
Curriehill, an estate, vdilx a mansion, in Currie parish,
Edinburghshire, 1 mile SW of Curriehill station on the
Caledonian, this being 5J miles SW of Edinburgh. A
castle, a little W of the mansion, figured as a place of
strength in the time of Queen Mary, being held by the
Queen's opponents. See Cuerie.
Cushieville. See Coshieville.
Cushnie, an ancient parish in Alford district, Aber-
deenshire, annexed in 1798 to Leochel, and now form-
ing the western section of that parish. Cushnie or
Sockaugh Hill, at the meeting-point with Towie, Logie-
Coldstone, and Tarland, 7 miles SW of Alford village,
has an altitude of 2032 feet above sea-level, and com-
mands a very extensive view. Cushnie Burn, rising on
the north-western shoulder of the hill, runs 4^ miles
east-north-eastward along Cushnie Glen and the Howe
of Cushnie to a confluence with Leochel Water at Brigton
of Ininteer. Cushnie barony, originally called Cus-
scnin (Gael, ch'oisinn, 'corner'), belonged, in the 12th
century, to a family of its own name ; went by marriage,
in the early part of the 14th century, to the Leslies,
ancestors of the Earls of Rothes ; and passed, in 1628,
to the Lumsdens. The old House of Cushnie, built in
1707, has long been uninhabited ; but near it a small
neat mansion was erected by the late proprietor, the
Rev. Hy. T. Lumsden (died 1867), whose widow holds
3000 acres in the shire, valued at £2588 per annum.
His uncle, Matthew Lumsden, LL.D. (1788-1856), was
an eminent orientalist. — Ord. Sur., sh. 76, 1874. See
Leochel-Ci'shnie.
Cuthill or Cuttle, a suburb of Prestonpans town,
Hadilingtonsliire. Separated from the W end of that
town by a rill, it is a dingy unpleasant place ; and
formerly had a salt work, a magnesia manufactory, and
an extensive pottery.
Cuttlehill, a mansion in Aberdour parish, Fife, |
mile E by S of Crossgates station.
332
DAAN
DALAROSSIE
D
DAAN, a bum of Edderton parish, Ross -shire,
formed hy two head-streams, and running 2|
miles north-north-eastward to the inner Dornoch
Firth, at Ardmore Point, If mile W by N of
Meikle Ferry.
Daer Water, the principal head-stream of the Clyde,
rising in the extreme S of the parish of Crawford and of
the cbhire of Lanark, at 2000 feet above sea-level, on the
NE slope of Gana Hill (2190 feet), within J mile of the
Dumfriesshire border and of a sub-affluent of the Annan.
Thence it runs lOJ miles northward to a confluence with
Powtrail "Water, at a point 2 f miles S of Elvanfoot ; and
their united waters thenceforward bear the name of the
river Clyde. Traversing a dreary region of bleak moun-
tains and moorish uplands, and joined by sixteen little
affluents, it has a rapid, noisy, and frolicsome cm-rent ;
enjoys high repute as a trouting stream ; and gives the
titie of Baron (ere. 1646) to the Earl of Selkirk.— Orrf.
Sur., sh. 15, 1864.
Daharick, a moor in Midmar parish, Aberdeenshire,
said to have been the scene of a battle between Wallace
and Comyn.
Daiglen, a bum in Tillicoultry parish, Clackmannan-
shire, rising at an altitude of 1750 feet, and running If
mile south-eastward to form with Gannel Bum the Bum
of Tillicoultry.
Dailly, a village and a parish in Carrick district, Ayr-
shire. The village of New Dailly stands on the left
bank of Girvan Water, 7 furlongs SSE of Dailly station,
on the Ayr and Girvan railway, this being 5i miles EXE
of Girvan, and 7^ SSW of Maybole, under which it has
a post office, with money order, savings' bank, and tele-
graph departments. Greatly improved and enlarged
since 1825, it is substantially built and regularly aligned ;
at it are a principal inn, the parish and Free churches,
a public school, and a working men's club. Pop. (1841)
591, (1861) 650, (1871) 554, (1881) 696.
The parish, called ancientlv Dahnaolkeran ('dale of
St Keiran '), had its church till 1691 at Old Dailly, U
miles to the WSW ; in 1653 it was shorn of a large tract
to form Barr parish, but acquired a small annexation
from Kirkoswald. It includes Ailsa Craig : yet itself
at no point touches the sea, being bounded NW and N
by Kirkoswald, NE by Kirkmichael, E by Kirkmichael
and Straiton, S by Barr, SW and W by Girvan.
Its utmost length, from E to W, is 7| miles ; its
breadth, from N to S, varies between I5 and 6 miles ;
and its area is 18,078^ acres, of which 82| are water.
GiRVAX Water, followed pretty closely by the railway,
winds 9J miles west-south-westward through the nortli-
western interior or along the northern and western
borders ; and several burns run to it from the interior.
In the SW, where it passes off into Girvan, the surface
sinks to close upon 50 feet above sea-level, thence rising
north-eastward to 500 feet at High Craighead, 329 near
Kilgrammie, 700 at Quarrel Hill, and 850 at Kirk Hill ;
south-eastward and eastward to 908 at Green Hill, 1059
at Hadvard Hill, 981 at Peat Pag, 1049 at Barony Hill,
1007 at Caim Hill, and 1385 at Garleffin Fell. The
rocks belong partly to the Calciferous Sandstone series,
partly to the Carboniferous Limestone ; and coal is
worked at Bargany and Dalquharran, limestone at Craig-
head, while sandstone also is plentiful. The tract
along Girvan Water is a pleasant vale, fertile, richly
wooded, and well cultivated ; the soil is here partly
alluvial, and elsewhere ranges from argillaceous or light
and dry, incumbent on gravel, to thin, wet, and spongy
on the hills, which, naturally heathy or mossy, have
been in places reclaimed, and almost everywhere afford
good pasturage. Baronial fortalices stood at Old Kil-
kerran, Dalquharran, Brunston, and Penkill ; a chapel
of St Macarius * stood at Machrykill, another of Our
Lady in Ladyrjlcn, and a third at Altichapel ; whilst
* In Procs.Ayr and Wigtown Archceol. Soc. (18S2) is a notice of
the sole relic of this chapel— a stone supposed to have been a bap-
tismal font of hi^h antiquity.
on the western shoulder of Hadyard Hill, which com-
mands a magnificent view, is a doubly-entrenched camp,
possibly formed in the days of Robert Bruce, and measur-
ing 300 feet by 195. Natives of Dailly were the poet,
Hew Ainslie (1792-1878) ; Thos. Thomson (1768-1852),
lawyer and antiquary ; and his painter brother, the Rev.
Jn. Thomson of Duddingston (1778-1840): and Prof.
Alex. Hill, D.D. (1785-1867), was minister from 1816 to
1840. Mansions, all separately noticed, are Bargany,
Dalquharran Castle, Kilkerran, Killochan Castle, and
Penkill Castle ; and 5 proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 2 of between £100 and £500,
and 6 of from £20 to £50. Dailly is in the presbj-tery
of Ayr and synod of Glasgow and Ajt ; the living is
worth £397. In 1881 it was all but resolved to rebuild
the parish churcli (1766; 600 sittings), but for the pre-
sent things are at a standstill. Four schools — Dailly
public, Kilgrammie public. Old Dailly public, and Wal-
laceto^vn Works — with respective accommodation for 227,
109, 75, and 90 children, had (1880) an average attend-
ance of 168, 55, 39, and 89, and grants of £135, 14s.,
£27, 13s., £40, 14s., and £61, 4s. Valuation (1882)
£16,288, 18s. lOd., plus £2618 for railway. Pop. (1801)
1756, (1831) 2074, (1861) 2050, (1871) 1932, (1881) 2204.
—Ord. Sur., shs. 14, 8, 1863.
Dairsie, a parish in the NE of Fife, containing at its
eastern border the village of Dairsiemuir or Osnabm-gh,
5 furlongs NNW of Dairsie station, this being 3^ miles
SSW of Leuchars Junction, and 3 ENE of Cupar, under
which it has a post office, with money order, savings'
bank, and railway telegraph departments. Bounded
NW by Kilmany and Logie, N and E by Leuchars, SE
by Kemback, SW and W by Cupar, the parish has an
utmost length from E to W of 2| miles, a var\-ing
breadth from N to S of 5 furlongs and 2J miles, and
an area of 2560^ acres, of which 5;^ are water. The
Eden winds 2^ miles north-eastward along aU the Kem-
back border ; and where, close to Dairsie station, it
quits this parish, the surface declines to less than 100
feet above sea-level, thence rising westward and north-
westward to 505 feet on Foodie Hill, and 554 on Ckaig-
FOODIE, which, presenting to the SW a precipitous and
quasi-columnar front, commands a verj- extensive view.
Sandstone abounds in the S ; and trap-rock is quarried
in two places. The soil, in most parts fertile, in many
is rich and deep ; and little or nothing is waste. Dairsie
Castle, a ruin on a rising-ground near the Eden, was the
meeting-place of a parliament in 1335, and was occupied
by John Spottiswood, Archbishop of St Andrews, when
■writing his History of tlie Church and State of Scotland.
Craigfoodie is the chief mansion ; and 4 proprietors hold
each an annual value of £1000 and upwards, 2 of between
£500 and £1000, 1 of from £100 to £500, and 3 of from
£20 to £50. Dairsie is in the presbytery of Cupar and
synod of Fife ; the living is worth £400. The parish
church containing 313 sittings, was 'built and adorned
after the decent English fashion ' by Archbishop Spottis-
wood in 1621. A squat, four-bayed oblong, ^ith octa-
gonal bell-turret and dwarf-spire, it 'only shows,' says
Hill Burton, ' that the hand of the builder had lost its
cunning, and that neither the prelate nor his biographer
had an eye for mediaeval art ; it is a piece of cold
mimicry, like the work of the cabinetmaker rather than
of the architect,' etc. {Hist. Scot., vii. 102, ed. 1876).
There is also a Free church ; and a public school, with
accommodation for 135 children, had (1880) an average
attendance of 112, and a grant of £90, 9s. Valuation
(1882) £6573, 3s. lid. Pop. (1801) 550, (1831) 605,
(1861) 638, (1871) 687, (1881) 693.— Ord. Sur., shs.
48, 49, 1868-65. See vol L of Billings' Antiquities
(1845).
Dairsiemuir. See Dair.sie.
Dalarossie (Gael, dail-a-rois, ' field of the point '), an
ancient parish of NE Inverness-shire, now annexed to
Moy. More populous than Moy, it lies along the Find-
hom river, and on its left bank, 3| miles SW of Findhorn
333
DALAVICH
bridge and 20i SE of Inverness, has a church (1790 ; 450
sittings) and a public school.
Dalavich, an ancient parish and a registration district
in Lorn, Argj-Ushire. The parish, now annexed to Kil-
chrenan, lies along the loch and river of Avich, onward
to Loch Awe, on whose western shore, 14 miles WNW
of Inverarv, stand its church and its public school.
Pop. of district (1871) 217, (ISSl) 225. See KiL-
CHKEN'AX.
Dalbaxber, a village on the E border of Fowlis-Wester
parish, Perthshire, 2 miles WSW of Methven village.
Dalbeattie, a thriving police burgh in Urr parish, SE
Kirkcudbrightshire, standing, SO feet above sea-level, on
Dalbeattie Bum, 7 furlongs from its influx to Urr
Water, with a station on the Glasgow and South-Western
railway, 5J miles ESE of Castle -Douglas, 15i NE bv E
of Kirkcudbright, 14i SW of Dumfries, 108i SSW of
Edinburgh, and 106J S by E of Glasgow. Founded as
a mere village in 1780, this ' Granite City of the South '
owes its quick recent extension to the neighbouiing
quarries of Craignair in BriTTLE, to the opening of the
railway in 186u, and to its situarion near the Ukk,
which, for large vessels, is navigable as high as Dub o'
Hass, 5 miles to the S, and for small craft up to quite
close to the town. It consists of a main street with
others diverging, and has a post office, with money order,
savings' bank, and telegraph departments, a branch of
the Union Bank, 11 insurance agencies, 4 hotels, a gas
company, a town-hall with illuminated clock, a mechanics'
institute (1877), a literary association, bowling and
quoiting greens, masonic, oddfellows', and foresters'
lodges, etc. There are extensive bone, paper, bobbin, saw,
and flour mills, dye-works, an iron-forge, and concrete
iforks ; but Dalbeattie's chief industrial establishments
are the great steam granite-polishing works of ilessrs
Newall and Messrs Shearer, Field, & Co. , which employ
several hundreds of workmen as quarriers, hewers, and
polishers ; have furnished granite for the Liverpool docks,
the Thames Embankment, lighthouses in Ceylon, and
the paving of many large cities at home and abroad ;
and, besides other monuments, supplied that at Hughen-
den to Viscountess and Viscount Beaconsfield. Hiring
fairs are held on the second Tuesday of April and Octo-
ber. Dalbeattie forms a quoad sacra parish in the pres-
bytery and synod of Dumfries, its minister's stipend
being £300. A new parish church. Early English in
style, with 900 sittings and a spire 130 feet high, was
built in 1880 at a cost of £5000 ; and, at a cost of nearly
£2000, a new Free church, Romanesque in style, was
bmlt in 1881. Other places of worship are a U.P.
church (1818 ; 350 sittings), an Evangelical Union
church, St Peter's Roman Catholic church (1814 ; 300
sittings), and Christ Church Episcopal (1875), another
Early English edifice, with tower unfinished. A public,
a female public, and a Roman Catholic school, with
respective accommodation for 500, 65, and 154 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 384, 57, and 80,
and grants of £327, lis. 2d., £47, 2s., and £65, lis.
Under the General Police and Improvement Act of 1862,
the burgh is governed by a senior and two junior magis-
trates and six other police commissioners. Its munici-
pal constituency numbered 750 in 1882, when the annual
value of real property amounted to £9712. Pop. of
burgh (1841) 1430, (1861) 1736, (1871) 2937, (1881)
3862; of qiLoad sacra parish (1881) 4132.— Ord. Hur.,
8h. 5, 1857.
DaJblair. See GLEXMt'iR,
Dalcaimie Linn. See Beheeth.
DalcapozL See Duxkeld and Dowallt,
Dalchally, a glen in Glenisla parish, Forfarshire,
tntversfil by Cally Water to the river Lsla at a jioint 6
miles N of Glenisla church.
Dalchonzie, an estate, with a modem mansion, in
Coriirio parish, Pertlishire, on the right bank of the
Earn, 2^ miles W of Comrie village.
Daichosnie, an estate, with a mansion, in Fortingall
parish, N\V Perthshire, near the right bank of the
Tummel, \\ mile ESE of Kinloch Rannoch. Its owner.
General Alaatair M'lan M'Donald, of Dux Alastaik
334
DALGETY
(b. 1S30 ; sue. 1866), chief of the M'Donalds of Keppoch,
holds 14,000 acres in the shire, valued at £2676 per
annum.
Dalchreichard, a hamlet, with a public school, in
Urquhart and Glenmoristou parish, luverness-shire, on
the left bank of the Moriston, 1 mile W of Torgyle
Bridge.
Dalcross, a ruined castle in the united parish of Croy
and Dalcross, NE Inverness-shire, 2 miles SE of Dalci'oss
station on the Highland railway, this being 6f miles
NE of Inverness. Bmlt by the eighth Lord Lovat in
1621, it afterwards passed to the il'Iutoshes, whose nine-
teenth cliief, Lachlan, lay here in state from 9 Dec. 1703
till 18 Jan. 1704, when 2000 of the Clan Chattan fol-
lowed his remains — scanty enough, one would fancy — to
their last resting-place in Petty ehmxh. Here, too,
the Royal troops were put in array immediately before
the battle of Culloden. Dalcross stands high (362 feet
above sea-level), and commands a continuous view from
ilealfourvonie to the Ord of Caithness ; it consists of
two square, lofty, corbie-gabled blocks, joined to each
other at right angles. See Croy.
Dalcruive or Dalcrue, a place in Methven parish,
Perthshire, 2 miles XE of ilethven village, on the right
bank of the Almond, which here is crossed by a fine
bridge, erected in 1836-37, with one semicircular arch
of SO feet span.
Daldawn or Dildawn, an estate, with a modern man-
sion, in Keltou parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, on the left
bank of the Dee, 3 miles SW of Castle-Douglas.
Dalduff, an ancient baronial fortalice in Maybole
parish, Aj'rshire, now represented by only ruinous
walls, 3 nules SE of Maybole town.
Dale, a village of Shetland, 3J miles from its post-
to^vn, LerAvick.
Dalgain. See SoRX.
Dalgamock, an ancient parish in Xithsdale, Dumfries-
shire, annexed to Closebum in 1697. It nearly sur-
rounded the original parish of Closeburn ; and its
beautiful churchyard, l| mile S of Thornhill, contains
the grave and tombstone of the persecuted Covenanter
James Harkness. Here stood a village, a burgh of
barony, where a famous market-tryst was held, that
seems to have been continued after most or all of the
houses had disappeared, and is alluded to in Burus's
lines :
' But a' the next week, as I fretted wi' care,
I gaed to the trj'st o' Dalgamock ;
And wha but my fine fickle lover was there !
I glowi-'d as I'd seen a warlock, a warlock ;
I glowr'd as I'd seen a warlock.'
Dalgarven, a village in Kilwinning parish, Ayrshire,
on the right bank of the Garnock, contiguous to the
Glasgow and Soi;th-Westem railway, 2 miles N by W
of Kih\inning town.
Dalgenross. See Dai.gixross.
Dalgety or Delgaty, an estate, with a mansion, in
Turiitl' parish, N Aberdeenshire, 2 miles EXE of Turrilf
town. For three centuries and a half the property of
the Hays of ErroU, it was sold in 1762 to Peter Garden,
Esq. of Troup, and by his son resold in 1798 to James,
second Earl of Fife, whose nephew. Gen. the Hon. Sir
Alexander DuS" (1778-1851), long made it his residence.
Finally it was purchased by a younger brother of the
present Governor of iladras, Ainslie Douglas Ainslie,
Esq., who, born in 1838, changed in 1866 his name
C rant-Duff to that of Ainslie, and who holds 2822 acres
in the shire, valued at £1768 per annum. The oldest
part of Dalgety Castle, with walls more than 7 feet
thick, is older perhaps than its earliest extant date
(1579); and, added to at various jjcriods down to the
present century, the whole is now a stately Sf[uare,
winged pile, its battlements — 66 feet from the ground —
commanding a beautiful view. The grounds are finely
wooded, and contain a lake (2JxifurL). — Ord. Sur.,
sh. 86, 1876.
Dalgety, a coast pari.sh of SW Fife, containing the vil-
lages of St Davids, Fordel, and Mossgreen, with part of
Cko-ssgates, and traversed down to the coast at St Davidft
DALGINSOSS
by the Fordel mineral railway ; whilst its church stands
l| mile W by S of the post-towu Aberdour, and 4^ miles
AV by S of Burntisland. It is bounded W and N by
Dunfermline, NE by Aberdour, and SE by the Firth of
Forth, here from 1£ to 4J miles broad. Its utmost
length, from N to S, is 4^ miles ; its breadth, from E to
AV, varies between 4^ furlongs and 2| miles ; and its
area is 3710:j acres, of which SoZ^ are foreshore and 12f
water. The coast-line is fully 5J miles long, if one
foUows the bends of Barnhill, Braefoot, Dalgety, and
Donibristle Bays, the largest of which, Dalgety Bay,
measures 6J furlongs across the entrance, and 3;^ thence
to its inmost recess. From the shore, which in places
is beautifully wooded right down to the water's edge, the
surface here and there rises steeply to 100 feet and
more above sea-level, thence gently ascending through-
out the interior, till close to the northern border, J mile
E of Crossgates, it attains 426 feet. A darkly-wooded
glen, cleaving the grounds of Fordel, is traversed by a
brook which makes a fine waterfall of 50 feet ; and a
beautiful little loch is at Otterston, which still boasts
some magnificent trees. Among them are a beech and
an ash, 90 and 80 feet high, and 15| in girth at 5 feet
from the ground ; but a gale of January 1882 laid low
two venerable walnut-trees, the largest of which girthed
15§ feet at 16 from the ground. The rocks are chiefly
of the Carboniferous formation, and include great
abundance of sandstone, limestone, and coal ; the
last, of very superior quality, is mined at Fordel. The
arable soil is loam, partly light and dry, more generally
deep and strong. A village of Dalgety stood at the head
of Dalgety Bay, 4 mile SSE of the present church ; but
the ivy-clad ruins of St Bridget's kirk, dating from
the 12th century, are aU that now mark its site. First
Pointed in style, these retain a piscina and a number of
quaint old epitaphs ; whilst Chancellor Seton, first Eaid
of Dunfermline (1555-1622), is bui'ied in a vault to the
W. Almost the last to preach within their walls was
Edward Irving. Other antiquities are Fordel Castle and
a fragment of Couston Castle, at the E end of Otterston
Loch, the retreat this of Charles I.'s persecuted chaplain,
the Rev. Robert Blair (1583-1666), whose grave is at
Aberdour ; of Seton's favouiite residence, Dalgety
House, not so much as a stone remains. The chief
mansions are Donibristle House, Fordel House, Cock-
AiRNiE, and Otterston (1589), the two last both the
property of Captain Moubray, R.N. (b. 1818 ; sue.
1848), whose ancestor, a cadet of the Bai-nbougle Mou-
brays, settled here in 1511, and who owns 500 acres in
the shire, valued at £794 per annum. In all, 3 pro-
prietors hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards,
2 of from £50 to £100, and 5 of from £20 to £50. Giving
off its northern portion to the quoad sacra parish of Moss-
green, Dalgety is in the presbytery of Dunfermline and
.synod of Fife ; the living is worth £358. The present
church, built in 1830, is a good Gothic structure, con-
taining 500 sittings ; and 2 public schools, Hillend
and Mossgreen, with respective accommodation for 116
and 220 children, had (1880) an average attendance of
102 and 168, and grants of £80, lis. and £147.
Valuation (1882) £7695, 15s. 5d. Pop. (1801) 890,
(1831) 1300, (1861) 1569, (1871) 1310, (1881) 1321.—
Old. Sur., shs. 32, 40, 1857-67. See pp. 25-54 of J. C.
R. Buckner's Rambles Hound Aberdour (Edinb. 1881).
Dalginross (Gael, dail-chinn-rois, ' field at the head of
the point '), a village in Comrie parish, Perthshire, on
the peninsula between the AVater of Ruchill and the
river Earn, 3 furlongs S of Comrie town. Dalginross
Plain, to the S of the village, contained two Roman
camps, one of them occupying an area of 16 acres, sup-
posed by some antiquaries to liave been the ' A'^ictoria '
of the ninth Legion. See Blairinroar.
Dalguise, a village, with a Society's school, in Little
Dunkeld parish, central Perthshire, on the right bank
of the Tay, with a station on the Highland railway, 4^
miles NNAV of Dunkeld, under which it has a post
and telegraph office. The railway crosses the Tay, ^
mile N of the station, on a latticed iron-girder viaduct
360 feet in span, resting on one stone pier, and terminat-
DALINTOBER
ing at each end in handsome towers and wings of
masonry 71 feet long, and there it begins to open on the
beautiful Vale of Athole. Dalguise House, near the vil-
lage, is partly an old building, partly modem ; the
estate was given by AA'^illiam the Lyon to Dunkeld
chm-ch, and in 1543 was transferred by Bishop Crichton
to John, second son of Steuart of ArntuUie, whose de-
scendant, John Steuart, Esq., tenth Laird of Dalguise
(b. 1799; sue. 1821), holds 1750 acres in Perthshire,
valued at £1036 per annum, but is non-resident, having
been one of the earliest settlers in Cape Colony, where
he is Master of the Su[ireme Court.
Dalhalvaig. See Reay.
Dalhonzie. See Dalchonzie.
Dalhousie Castle, a noble mansion in Cockpen parish,
Midlothian, on the left bank of the river South Esk, 2J
miles S by AV of Dalkeith, 1§ mile SE of Bonnyrigg,
and 1^ S by AV of Dalhousie station on the AVaverley
route of the North British, this being 9 miles SE of
Edinburgh. In the first half of the 12th centm-y Simon
de Ramsay received a grant of lands in Midlothian from
David I. ; in 1296 and 1304 AA'^illiam de Ramsay swore
fealty to Edward 1. of England for the lands of ' Dal-
wokie.' His sou. Sir Alexander, was one of the great
Scotch leaders in the AVar of Independence, the capturer
of Roxburgh, who for reward was starved to death in
the Castle of Hermitage (1342); in 1400 his namesake
and fourth descendant successfully defended Dalhousie
against Henry lA". of England. This Sir Alexander
was slain at Homildon (1402), as was another at Flodden
(1513). In 1618 George Ramsay, eleventh in descent
from the first Sir Alexander, was raised to the peerage
as Lord Ramsay of ]\Ielrose, a title changed in the fol-
lowing year to that of Lord Ramsay of Dalhousie ; and
in 1633 his son and successor, AVilliam, was created Earl
of Dalhousie and Baron Ramsay of Kerington. During
his time we find Oliver Cromwell dating his letters from
Dalhousie Castle, 8 and 9 Oct. 1648. The fifth, sixth,
seventh, and ninth Earls were all of them soldiers,
George, the ninth (1770-183S), for service done in the
Peninsula being raised in 1S15 to the peerage of the
United Kingdom as Baron Dalhousie of Dalhousie. His
third son and successor, the Indian administrator, James
Andrew Brouu-Ramsay (1812-60), was born and died at
Dalhousie, at Dalhousie received a call from the Queen
and Prince Albert on 4 Sept. 1842, was Governor-
General of India from 1847 to 1855, and in 1849 was
created Marquis of Dalhousie, of Dalhousie Castle and
the Punjaub. This title died with him, but those of
Earl of Dalhousie and Baron Ramsay devolved on Ms
cousin, Fox Maule, second Lord Panmure (1801-74),
whose cousin and successor Admiral George Ramsay
(1806-80) became a peer of the United Kingdom in 1875
as Baron Ramsay of Glenmark. His son, the present
and thirteenth Earl, John AVilliam Ramsay, Commander
R.N., K.T. (b. 1847), is eighteenth in descent from the
first Sii" Alexander, and holds 1419 acres in Midlothian
and 136,602 in Forfarshire, valued respectively at £3452
and £55,602 per annum. (See Brechin and Panmure.)
Dating from the 12thcentui-y, Dalhousie is described by
the Queen as ' a real old Scottish castle, of reddish stone;'
but by the ninth Earl it was so altered and enlarged
tliat it is hard to say how much is old and how much
modern. Anyhow it is a stately castellated pile, with
lofty tower and a fine collection of family portraits ; on
10 Oct. 1867 it narrowly escaped entire destruction by
fire, with the loss of the third story and attics of the
central portion. The park is finely wooded, and the
garden of singular beautj'. Less than a half mile to the
NW flows Dalhousie Burn, which, rising near New-
bigging, runs 5 miles north-eastward along the boundary
of Carrington with Lasswade and Cockpen, and through
the interior of tlie latter parish, till near Dalhousie
station it joins the South Esk. A pretty streandet,
%dth steep but wooded banks, it makes a descent from
about 700 to less than 200 feet above sea-level. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 32, 1857. See Peter Mitchell's Parish of
Cockpen in the Olden Times (Dalkeith, 1881).
Dalintober, a suburban village in Canipbclto-wn parish,
335
DALJARROCH
Argyllshire, on the N side of the head of Campbeltown
Loeh. Lyins; within the parliamentary boundaries of
Campbeltown bingh, it is a thriving place, with a sub-
stantial small pier.
Daljairroch, an estate, with a mansion, in Colmonell
parish, S Ayrshire, on the right bank of the Stinchar,
near Pinmore station, and 4' miles ENE of Colmonell
village. Comprising 1927 acres, it was sold in 1875 for
.i4S,000. There is a post office of Daljarroch.
Dalkairnie Linn. See 15erbeth.
Dalkeith, a town and a parish in the E of Edinburgh-
shire. The town stands, 182 feet above sea-level, on a
peninsula from 3 to 5 furlongs wide between the North
and South Esks, and by road is 4^ miles S by W of
Musselburgh and 6 SE "of Edinburgh, whilst, as ter-
minus of a branch line 3| furlongs long, it is 8| miles
SE of Edinburgh. It is also accessible from Eskbank
station, 5 furlongs to the SW, on the main Waverley
route of the North British, this being 8| miles SE of
Edinburgh and 90J N by W of Cadisle. A low and
flat-backed ridge, the peninsula slopes more steeply to
the North than the South Ksk ; of the town's fair sur-
roundings this picture is given in David Moir's Mansie
Wauch : — ' Pleasant Dalkeith ! with its bonny river,
its gardens full of gooseberry bushes and pear-trees, its
grass parks spotted with sheep, and its grand green
woods.' The High Street widens north-eastward from
30 to 85 feet, and terminates at a gateway leading up to
Dalkeith Palace, the principal seat of the Duke of Buc-
cleuch, which palace, as centring round it all the chief
episodes in Dalkeith's history, must here be treated of
before Dalkeith itself.
The Anglo-Norman knight, William de Graham, a
witness to the foundation charter of Hol3'rood Abbey
(1128), received from David I. the manor of Dalkeith ;
his seventh descendant, John de Graham, dying without
issue about the middle of the 14tli century, left two
sisters, his heiresses, of whom one, ]\Iarjory, conveyed
Dalkeith by marriage to the Douglases. ' In my
youth,' says Froissart, ' I, the author of this book,
travelled all through Scotland, and was full fifteen days
resident with William, Earl of Douglas, at his castle of
Dalkeith. Earl James was then very young, but a pro-
mising youth,' etc. Doughty Earl James it was who,
capturing Hotsimr's trophy, cried out that he would set
it high on the tower of his castle of Dalkeith — a taunt
that led to the battle of Otterburn (1388). In 1452 tlie
town was plundered and burned by the brother of the
murdered sixth Earl of Douglas, but the castle held out
gallantly under Patrick Cockburn, its governor ; in
1458 James II. conferred on James Douglas of Dalkeith
the title of Earl of JMorton ; and at the second Earl's castle
James IV. first met his afiianced Queen, the Princess
Margaret of England, 3 Aug. 1503, when, ' having
greeted her with knightly courtesy, and passed the day
in her company, he returned to his bed at Edinburgh,
very well content of so fair meeting.' In 1543, Cardinal
Beaton was committed prisoner to Dalkeith Castle,
which in 1547 had to yield to the English victors of
Pinkie after a valiant defence. James, fourth Earl of
Morton, the cruel and grasping Regent, built at Dal-
keith about 1575 a magniiicent palace, richly adorned
with tapestries and pictures, and fitter for king tlian
subject — the ' Lion's Den ' the country people called it.
Hither on Sunday, June 11, 1581, just nine days after
the Lion's head had fallen beneath the Maiden's axe,
James VI. returned from the jtarish kirk with two
jiipers playing before him and with the Duke of Lennox,
Morton's accuser and successor. The Modern Solomon
revisited Dalkeith in 1G17, when Archibald Symson, the
parish minister, addressed to him a congratulatory
poem, Philomela Lalkethcnsis ; and in 1633 Charles I.
was here magnificently entertained. In the winter of
1637-38, Ibllowing close on the Liturgy tumults, the
Privy Council adjourned from Linlithgow to Dalkeith
Palace, whither twelve out of the sixteen 'Tables,' or
commissioners, representing the supplicants of every
estate, came to present their menacing [irotcstation ; and
in the si)ring of 1639 these Tables made themselves
836
DALKEITH
masters of the palace. "Within it, besides military
stores, were found the regalia — crown, sceptre, and
sword — which, with all reverence, were brought back
by the nobles to Edinburgh Castle. Francis Scott,
second Earl of Buccleuch, purchased Dalkeith from the
ninth Earl of Morton in 1642. Dying in 1651, he left
two daughters, Mary (1648-61) and Anne (1651-1732),
who, successively Countesses of Buccleuch in their own
right, married, at the early ages of 11 and 12, Walter
Scott of Highchester and the ill-fated Duke of Mon-
mouth, both of them lads of only 14 years. The Countess
Mary's custodier was the celebrated General Monk, who
as such had a five years' lease of Dalkeith (1654-59), and
lived there quietly, busying himself with gardening, but
ever regarded jealously by Cromwell. Her mother, who
for third husband had taken the Earl of Wemyss, is
described by Baillie as a witty, active Avoman, through
whom Monk acted on the Scottish nobles, and through
whom the Scottish nobles acted in turn on ilonk ; and
that ' sl}^ fellow' is said to have planned the Restoration
in rooms, still extant, overhanging the Esk. Monmouth
himself must often have been here ; in 1663 he and his
child spouse were created Duke and Duchess of Buccleuch
and Earl and Countess of Dalkeith. The Duchess of
the Lay of the Last Minstrel, she, after Monmouth's
execution (1685), lived chiefly at Newakk Castle in
princely style, more rarely at Dalkeith Palace, which, as
it stands to-day, was mainly built by her. Her grandson
and successor, Francis, second Duke of Buccleuch (1695-
1751), in whose time Prince Charles Edward passed two
nights at Dalkeith (1 and 2 Nov. 1745), married the
eldest daughter of James, second Duke of Queensberry ;
and their grandson Henry, third Duke (1746-1812),
inherited the dukedom of Queensberry in 1810. With a
younger brother, assassinated at Paris in 1766, he had
made the grand tour under the tutelage of Adam Smith ;
and he did much to improve his tenantry and vast
estates. To him Scott owed his appointment (1799) as
sherifl'-depute of Selkirkshire ; and his son and successor,
Charles William Henry (1772-1819), is also remembered
as a kindly friend to both Sir Walter and the Ettriek
Shepherd. His son, Walter-Francis Montagu-Douglas-
Scott (b. 1806 ; sue. 1819), has entertained royalty
twice, in the persons of George IV. (15-29 Aug. 1822)
and Queen Victoria and Prince Albert (1-6 and 13-15
Sept. 1842). He is the fourth largest landowner in
Scotland, holding 432,338 acres, valued at £187,156 per
annum, viz., 3536 in Midlothian (£28,408, including
£1479 for minerals and £10,601 for Granton harbour),
253,514 in Dumfriesshire (£97,530), 104,461 in Rox-
burghshire (£39,458), 60,428 in Selkirkshire (£19,828),
9091 in Lanarkshire (£1544), and 1308 in Fife, Kirkcud-
bright, and Peebles shires (£3SS). See Bowhili,,
DnuMLANRiG Castle, and Buanxholm. Such are
some of the memories of Dalkeith Palace, which, crown-
ing a steep, rocky knoll above the North Esk's right
bank, was mainly rebuilt by the Duchess of Monmouth in
the early years of the 18th century. Her architect. Sir
John Vanbrugh, better known for his plays than his build-
ings, chose as a model Loo Palace in the Netherlands ;
the result is a heavy-looking Grecian pile of reddish stone,
with recessed centre and projecting wings. The interior,
however, is rich in treasures of art — six family portraits
by Gainsborough and Sir Joshua Reynolds, Wilkie's
]iortrait of George IV., three landscapes by Claude, and
other paintings by Holbein, Rembrandt, Annibal
I'aracci, Van Dyck, etc., with the furniture given to
Monmouth by Charles II. The park, extending into
Newton and Inveresk parishes, and ringed by a high
stone wall, has a total area of 1035 acres, 130 of which
are occupied by a remnant of the ancient Caledonian
Forest. One kingly oak is 93 feet high, and girths 18^
feet at 1 foot from the ground ; whilst an ash and three
beeches, with respective girth of Vi'i, 17, 10;^, and 14^
feet, are 95, 110, 103, and 95 feet liigh. Landscape
gardening has done much to enhance the beauties duo
to an undulating surface and to the windings of the
rivers Esk, which iinite 7 furloiigs below tJie jtilace ; and
tJie formality in the ueneral disposition of the grounds
DALKEITH
and in the planting, that offended both Gilpin and
Stoddart, is ever softening with the lapse of years. See
William Fraser, The Scotts of BuccJeuch {Edinh. 187S).
Apart from castle and palace, Dalkeith has nothing
more notable in its history than Mr Gladstone's electoral
address of 20 March 1880. Connected ^\ith it by birth,
education, or residence were the poet, John Rolland
(flo. 1575); David Calderwood (1575-1650), ecclesiastical
historian; Archibald Pitcairne (1652-1713), poet and
physician ; the judge, William Calderwood, Lord Polton
(1661-1733) ; John Love (1695-1750), Buchanan's vin-
dicator, and rector of the grammar school from 1739 till
his death ; Alexander Wedderburn, Lord Longborough
and first Earl of Rosslyn (1733-1805), Lord High Chan-
cellor of England ; the historian, Principal William
Robertson, D. D. (1721-93) ; Henry Dnndas, Viscount
Melville (1742-1811) ; John Kay, the caricaturist (1742-
1826), for six years 'prentice to a Dalkeith barber ;
Ralph Wardlaw, D.D. (1779-1853), an eminent divine ;
Robert Mushet (1782-1828), of the Royal Mint ; and
Norman Macleod, D.D. (1812-72), who was minister
from 1843 to 1851.
Nor, apart from its church, has the town miich to
show in the way of antiquities — a few old sculptured
stones let into modern buildings, ' Cromwell's orderly
house ' in Chapelwell Close, and a fragment of a piscina
in an old house near the palace gate. The market-cross
has long since disappeared, but hiring fairs are held on
the last Thursday of February, the first Thursday of
April, and the second Thursday of October ; horse and
cattle fairs on the Thursday of May after Rutherglen
and the third Tuesday of October, and corn markets on
every Thursday in the year.* The Corn Exchange, built
in 1855 at a cost of £3800 from designs by the late D.
Cousin of Edinburgh, is a large hall, 172 by 50 feet, and
45 feet high, with open-timbered roof and a gable-front
to the High Street, adorned by a panel bearing the
Duke's arms. The Town-hall, a plain old building,
stands also in the High Street ; the Foresters' hall, in
Buccleuch Street, measuring 80 by 45 feet, seats 800
persons, and was erected in 1877 at a cost of £4700 ; and
the Combination poorhouse, for eleven parishes, at Gal-
lowshall, accommodates 121 inmates, and was built at a
cost of £4058 in 1849, being the first of such houses in
Scotland. Dalkeith has besides a post office, with money
order, savings' bank, insurance, and telegraph depart-
ments, branches of the Commercial (1810), the National
(1825), the Royal(1836), and theClydesdale Banks (1858),
a National Security Savings' bank (1839), 20 insurance
agencies, 6 chief inns, gas-works (1827), a working men's
club and institute (1867), a scientific association (1835),
a science school (1870), an agricultural society (1836),
Liberal and Conservative clubs (1879), a masonic hall, a
town mission (1846), a Royal Infirmary auxiliary society
(1841), a total abstinence society (1837), bowling,
cricket, and curling clubs, two papers — the Thursday
Dalkeith Advertiser and the Saturday Dalkeith Herald,
etc. The streets are fairly well paved, but the
drainage is very defective, as also was the water supply,
till in 1878 an arrangement was made with the Edin-
burgh Water Company to bring in a fresh supply from
the Moorfoot Hills, under their recent Extension Act,
the works being carried out in 1879 at a cost of £6000.
Ironfounding, brushmaking, and market-gardening are
the leading industries.
The old or East Parish church is of unknown date ;
but Pope Sixtus' bull of 1475 refers to the collegiate
establishment of St Nicholas of Dalkeith, consisting of
a provost, 5 canons, and 5 prebends, as having been
'founded and endowed from ancient times.' Second
Pointed in style, it consists of an aisled navs (78 x 53
feet), a choir (44 x 27) with trigonal apse, N and S tran-
septs, and a western clock -tower and octagonal spire 85
feet high. The choir, however, which, with its canopied
niches, is much more highly decorated than the rest of
* The weekly corn market was changed from Sunday (on which
it had been held ' past memory of man ') to Thursday by an Act
of the Scottish Parliament of 15S1, which also appointed the yearly
October fair.
22
DALKEITH
the fabric, has long been roofless, cut off from the nave
by an unsightly wall ; and forty years since nave and
transepts were ' choked with galleries, rising tier above
tier behind and around the pulpit — a curious example
of Scotch vandalism. There was, however, something of
the picturesque in the confused cramming of these "lofts"
into every nook and corner, in the quaint shields, de-
vices, and texts emblazoned in front of the seats allotted
to different guilds. The weavers reminded the congre-
gation of how life was passing " swiftly as the weaver's
shuttle," and the hammermen of how the Word of God
smote the rocky heart in pieces' (Life of Norman Macleod,
1876). Now, as restored by the late David Bryce, R. S. A. ,
in 1852, the church contains 760 sittings, and presents
a goodly appearance, but for the lack of the choir, in
which are two recumbent effigies, probably of James,
first Earl of Morton, and his dame, as also the graves of
the young Countess Mary and her sister, the Duchess of
Monmouth. The West Church, on a commanding site
above the North Esk, was erected in 1840 at the cost of
the Duke of Buccleuch, and is a cruciform Early English
structure, ■with 950 sittings, and a spire 167 feet high.
King's Park U.P. church, also Early English in style,
with 700 sittings and a spire of 140 feet, was built in
1869-70 at a cost of £3300 ; and Buccleuch Street U.P.
church, a Lombardo- Venetian edifice, in 1879, at a cost
of £8767. Other places of worship are Back Street U. P.
church (436 sittings), a Free church, a Congregational
church (300 sittings), Wesleyan, Baptist, and Evangelical
Union chapels, St David's Roman Catholic church (1854 ;
500 sittings), and St Mary's Episcopal church (1845 ; 250
sittings). The last, situated just -within the gateway of
the ducal park, is a beautiful Early English building,
comprising a nave with open roof, a chancel elaborately
groined in stone, and a S vestry. Back Street public
school, the new Burgh public school, and the Roman
Catholic school, \Wth respective accommodation for 204,
500, and 235 children, had (1880) an average attendance
of 107, 340, and 135, and grants of £94, 15s., £239, 10s.,
and £117, 9s.
Under the successive holders of castle and palace,
Dalkeith was for centuries a burgh of barony ; on the
abolition of hereditary jurisdictions, in 1747, the Duke
claimed £4000 for the regality, and was allowed £3400.
In terms of Acts passed between 1759 and 1825 twelve
trustees were appointed, of whom the baron-bailie was
always one ; but in 1878 the General Police Act was
adopted after repeated rejection, and the toi,\Ti is now
governed by a chief magistrate, 2 other magistrates, and 9
commissioners. Valuation (1882) £27,806. Pop. (1841)
4831, (1851) 5086, (1861) 5396, (1871) 6386,(1881) 6711.
The parish, containing also the village of Lugton and
the greater part of Whitehill village, is bounded NW
by Newton, NE by Inveresk, E by Cranston, SE and
S by Newbattle, and SW by Lasswade. Its utmost
length, from E to W, is 3f miles ; its utmost breadth,
from N to S, is If mile ; and its area is 2345^ acres, of
which IJ are water. The North Esk -u-inds 2| miles,
mostly through the interior, but partly along the Lass-
wade and Newton borders, till, near the northern ex-
tremity of the parish, it is joined by the South Esk,
which, entering from Newbattle, has a northerly course
here of 2 miles. As the river Esk, their united waters
flow on 1 furlong north-eastward along the Newtou
boundary ; and, at the point where they pass into In-
veresk, the surface declines to 100 feet above sea-level,
thence rising gently south-south-westward and south-
eastward to 182 feet at Dalkeith High Street, 300 at
Longside, and 400 near Easter Cowdcn. The rocks
belong to tlie coal-measures of the Carboniferous forma-
tion, and coal is largely worked, whilst an extensive bed
of brick and tile clay occurs at Newfarm and near Gal-
lowshall. The soil is generally a good deep loam, with
subsoil of clay and gravel ; and the rent of the land is
high, particularly tliat occupied by gardens. The Duke
of Buccleuch holds about seven-eigliths of the entire
parish, 2 other proprietors holding each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 31 of between £100 and
£500, 52 of from £50 to £100, and 113 of from £20 to
337
DALLACHY
£50. Part of Kestalrig deanery till 1592, and now the
seat of a presbytery in'tlie synod of Lothian and Tweed-
dale, Dalkeith is divided ecclesiastically into East and
"West parishes, the former a living worth £506. Two
schools under the landward board, Dalkeith public and
Whitehill colliery, with respective accommodation for
163 and 121 children, liad (ISSO) an average attendance
of 137 and 98, and tcrants of £128, 9s. 6d. and £36, 10s.
Valuation (1860) £23,847 ; (1882) £34,868, plus £2154
for raUways and waterworks. Pop. (1801) 3906, (1821)
5169, (1841) 5830, (1861) 7114, (1871) 7667, (ISSl) 7707.
—Ord. Sur., sh. 32, 1857.
The presbytery of Dalkeith, established in 1581, com-
prises the ancient parishes of Borthwick, Carrington,
Cockpen, Cranston, Crichton, Dalkeith, Falaand Soutra,
Glencorse, Heriot, Inveresk, Lasswade, Newbattle, New-
ton, Ormiston, Penicuik, and Temple ; the quoad sacra
parishes of West Dalkeith, North Esk, Rosewell, Roslin,
and Stobhill ; and the chapelry of New Craighall. Pop.
(1871) 45,099, (1881) 50,932, of whom 8990 were com-
municants of the Church of Scotland in 1878. — The
Free Church also has a presbytery of Dalkeith, compris-
ing the churches of Carlops, Cockenzie, Cockpen, Dal-
keith, Gorebridge, Loanhead, Musselburgh, Ormiston,
Penicuik, Roslin, and Temple, which together had 2688
members in 1881.
Dallachy. See Bellie.
Dallas, a village and a parish of central Elginshire.
Tlie village stands on the left bank of the Lossie, 11
miles SW of Elgin, and 84 SE of Forres, under which
it has a post office.
The parish, containing also Kellas village, 3J miles
to the ENE, is bounded N by Elgin, E by Birnie, SE
by Rothes and Knockando, W by Edinkillie, and NW
by Rafford. Rudely triangular in outline, it has an
utmost length of 10^ miles from its north-eastern angle,
near Lennocside, to Carn Kitt}-, at its south-western
apex ; an utmost breadth from E to W of 7 J miles ; and
an area of 22,024| acres, of which 122 are water. The
Lossie, issuing from Loch Trevie, near the south-western
corner of the jjarish, winds 154 miles north-north-east-
ward and east -north -eastward through the interior,
descending in this course from 1300 to 300 feet above
sea-level ; near Lennocside, at the north-eastern corner,
it is joined by Lennoc Burn, flowing 4 miles northward
along all the Birnie border, and forming a waterfall, the
Ess of Glenlatterach ; whilst Black Burn, another of
the Lossie's affluents, runs 3f miles north-eastward along
all the boundary with Rafford, thence passing off into
Elgin. LodisDanas(3i X 11 furl.) and Trevie (1 x ^furl.)
lie right upon the Edinkillie border ; Loch Coulatt (1 J x
1 furl.) falls just within Knockando ; and fifteen loch-
lets, tinier still, are dotted over the south-western in-
terior. From NE to SW the chief elevations to the
right of the Lossie are Mill Buie (1100 feet). Cairn Uish
(1197), Meikle Hill (932), Cas na Smorrach (1146), and
Carn Kitty (1711) ; to the left rise wooded Mulundy Hill
(708), another Mill Buie (1216), and Carnache (1179).
These hills are variously arable, planted, and heathy ;
the straths are well cultivated, and exhibit much natural
beauty. Granite is the prevailing rock, but sandstone
and grey slate have both been quarried ; the soil is
generally light loam on a gravelly bottom along the
J.ossie, a vegetable mould incumbent on till in parts of
tlic uplands, and moor or moss along the southern bor-
der. Tor Castle, J- mile N by E of the village, was
built in 1400 by Sir Thomas Gumming of Altyue, and,
lung the Cummings' stronghold, consists now only of
ruined outworks and a moat. The property is mostly
"lividcd among three. Dallas is in the presbytery of
I'orres and .synod of Moray ; the living is worth £188.
The present church, near the village, was built in 1794,
and contains 250 sittings ; its ancient, heatlier-tliatched
j)redece.ssor was dedicated to St Michael ; and a stone
shaft, 12 feet high, in the kirkyard, surmounted by a
fleur-de-lis, is tlie old market-cross. A Free church
stands J mile NE of the village ; and two public schools,
Dallas and Kellas female, witli respective accommoda-
tion for 140 and GO children, had (1880) an average
338
DALMELLINGTON
attendance of 85 and 27, and grants of £81, 9s. 6d. and
£18. Valuation (1881) £5542, 12s. Pop. (1801) 818,
(1841) 1179, (1861) 1102, (1871) 1060, (ISSl) 915.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 85, 1876.
Dallintober. See Dalintober.
Dalmahoy (Gael, dail-ma-thuat.h, 'field to the north'),
a mansion in Ratho parish, Edinburghshire, 1| mile S
by E of Ratho village, and 24 miles W by N of Gurriehill
station. Built partly in the early years of last century,
partly at subsequent periods, it has grounds of great
beauty, commanding tine distant views, and open to
strangers. The estate, having belonged from 1296 and
earlier to the family of Dalmahoy, passed in the middle
of the 17th century to the Dalrymples, from whom it
was purchased about 1750 by the seventeenth Earl of
Jlorton ; and Dalmahoy is now the chief seat of Sholto-
John Douglas, twentieth Earl of Morton since 1458 (b.
1818 ; sue. 1858), who holds 8944 acres in the shire,
valued at £9041 per annum. (See also Aberdour and
CoNA. ) Dalmahoy Crags, overlooking the Caledonian
railway IJ mile SSW of Dalmahoy House, rise to an
altitude of 680 feet above sea-level, stoop precipitously
to the AV, and constitute a grand feature in the general
landscape of the Western Lothians. Dalmahoy has an
Episcopal chapel, St Mary's.
Dalmally, a village in Glenorchy parish, Argyllshire,
on the left bank of the Orchy, near the north-eastern
extremity of Loch Awe, with a station on the Callander
and Oban railway, 24J miles E of Oban, 62;^ WNW of
Stirling, and 16 by road NNE of Inverary. Nestling
among trees, and at the same time commanding magnifi-
cent views of the basin and mountain screens of Loch
Awe, it is a favourite resort of anglers, and has a post
office, with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph
departments, an hotel, a Free church, a public school,
and a fair on the Friday of October after Kilmichael ;
whilst on an islet in the Orchy here stands Glenorchy
parish church (1811 ; 570 sittings), an octagonal Gothic
structure with a spire.
Dalmary. See Gartmore.
Dalmelling. See Dalmullen.
Dalmellington, a small toAvn and a parish on the S
border of Kyle district, Ayrshire. The town stands,
600 feet above sea-level, in a recess sheltered by hills,
at the terminus of a branch (1856) of the Glasgow and
South-Western, f mile NE of the Bogton Loch expan-
sion of the river Doon, and 9 miles SE of Hollybush, 15
SE of Ayr, 51 SSW of Glasgow, and 72 SW of Edin-
burgh. Dating from the 11th century, and a burgh of
barony, it was long little else than a stagnating village,
but in recent times has become a centre of traffic in
connection with new neighbouring iron-works ; at it are
a post office, with money order, savings' bank, and
telegraph departments, a branch of the Royal Bank, 4
insurance agencies, 2 hotels, gas-works, a reading-room
and library, and a public school, erected in 1875 at a
cost of £3000, whilst fairs are held here on the last
Thursday of February and the day after Moniaive, i.e.,
on the second or third Saturday of August. The parish
church, built in 1846, is a handsome edifice in the Saxon
style, with a lofty tower and 640 sittings ; and other
places of worship ai'e a Free church (400 sittings), an
Evangelical Union chapel, and the Roman Catholic
church of Our Lady of the Rosary (1860 ; 170 sittings).
Pop. (1801) 1299, (1871) 1514, (1881) 1453.
The parish, containing also the mining villages of Ben-
quhat, liurnfoothill, Craigmark, Lethanliill, and Water-
side, is bounded N by Coylton and Ochiltree, E by New
Cumnock, SE by Carsphairn in Kirkcudbrightshire, SW
by Loch Doon and Straiton. Its greatest length, from
N Wto SE, is 9^ miles ; its breadth, from NE to SW, varies
between 1^ and 4^ miles ; and its area is 17,9265 acres, of
which 144 are water. Locli D(K)N, with utmost length
and width of 5| miles and 6^ furlongs, lies just within
Straiton, 680 feet above the level of the sea; and, issuing
from it, the river Doon winds lOJ miles north-westward
along all the rest of the Straiton border, near the town
expanding into Bogton Loch (6 x 2\ furl. ), and receiving
Muck Water and other burns from the interior. On the
DALMELLINGTON
DALMEN7
Kirkcudbrightshire border, 4 miles SSE of the town, is
Loch Muck (5xl| fiud. ). Below Dalharco, where the
Doon quits Dalmelliugton, the surface sinks to 500 feet
above sea-level, thence rising eastward and south-east-
ward to 1103 feet near Hillend, 986 on Green Hill, 1426
on Benquliat, 925 on Craigmark HUl, 1521 on Bex-
EEOCH, 1333 on Benbain, 1107 on Knockskae, 1621 on
Bexbeack, 1760 on Wixdy Staxdakd, 1484 on Camp-
bell's Hill, and 1071 on Muckle Eritf Hill. A plain or
very gentle slope lies along the Doon over a length of
about 3 miles in the vicinity of the town, and, measuring
1 mUe in extreme width at the middle, has nearly the
figm-e of a crescent, narrowed to a point at both ex-
tremities. The surface everywhere beyond that plain
rises into continuous eminences or mountain ridges, of
which that nearest the Doon almost blocks its com'se at
the NW angle of the parish, and extends away eastward
as a flank to the plain, till it terminates abruptly, to
the NE of the town, in a splendid basaltic colonnade 300
feet high and 600 feet long. Two other ridges run
south-eastward and southward, and to the N are ad-
joined by a ridge extending into New Cumnock. The
hills, in general, have easy accli\dties, and in only three
places, over short distances, are precipitous ; yet they
form mountain passes of picturesque character, in one
or two instances of high grandeur. Two of the ridges,
on the way from the town to Kirkcudbrightshire, ap-
proach each other so nearly for upwards of a mile, as to
leave between them barely sufficient space for the public
road and the bed of a mountain-brook ; two others
which flank the Doon at its egress from mountain-
cradled Loch Doon, are rocky perpendicular elevations,
and stand so close to each other for about a mile, as to
seem cleft asunder by some powerful agency fi'om above,
or torn apart by some convulsive stroke from below.
The gorge between these heights, a narrow, lofty-faced
]iass, bears the name of the Xess Glen, and opens at its
north-western extremity into the crescent-shap^jed plain.
The springs of the parish are pure, limpid, and perennial,
and issue, for the most part, from beds of sand and
gravel. The rocks are partly eruptive, partly Silurian,
partly carboniferous. Sandstone, limestone, coal, and
ironstone abound. The coal belongs to the most
southerly part of the Ayrshire coalfield, is of excellent
quality, has been worked in numerous pits, and aflords
a supply not only to the immediate neighbourhood, but
to places in Galloway 30 miles distant. The ironstone
also is of good quality, and has been extensively worked
since 1847. Iron-works were erected in that year at the
villages of "Waterside and Craigmark, and had five out
of eight furnaces in blast in 1879. The soil, along the
river side, is chiefly a deep loam ; on the north-western
acclivities, is a wet argillaceous loam, resting on sand-
stone ; on the hills of the NE and E is moss ; and on
those of the S is partly peat but chiefly light dry earth,
incumbent on Silurian rock. About 1310 acres are
regularly or occasionally in tillage, 750 under wood, and
275 in a state of commonage, whilst about 1150, now
pastoral or waste, are capable of reclamation for the
plough ; and 150 at a spot | mUe below the to\\'n are
morass, resting on a spongy bed, and embosoming some
oaks of considerable si^e. An ancient moat, surrounded
^vith a deep dry fosse, and supposed to have been a seat
of feudal justice courts, rises on the SE of the toA\'n ; and
within the town itself an edifice lately^stood, which,
known by the name of Castle House, is said to have
borne date 1003 ( i), and supposed to have been constructed
with materials from a previous strong castle beyond
the moat. Another ancient structure, believed to have
been a place of considerable strength, and traditionally
associated with a shadowy King Alpin, surmounted a
cliff in a deep glen, and was protected on three sides
by mural precipices, on the fourth side by a fosse. The
Roman road from Ayr to Galloway passed through the
parish, and was not entirely obliterated till 1830. Three
very large cairns, one of them more than 300 feet in
circumference, were formerly on the hills. Dalmelliug-
ton figured largely in the Stuart persecution of the
Covenanters, and is rich in traditions respecting their
sufferings. Mr M'Adam of Craigengillan and Berbeth
is much the lai'gest proprietor ; but 3 otliers hold each an
annual value of £500 and upwards, 2 of between £10ft
and £500, 5 of from £50 to £100, and 25 of from £20 to
£50. Dalmellington is in the presbytery of Ayr and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth £212,
Dalmellington, Benquhat, Craigmark, Lethanhill, and
Waterside schools, with respective accommodation for
300, 203, 222, 292, and 585 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 137, 149, 181, 216, and 328, and
grants of £135, 8s. 6d., £123, 14s. 6d., £151, 13s. 6d.,
£150, 10s., and £292, 13s. Valuation (1882) £18,082,
plus £2987 for railway. Pop. (1801) 787, (1841) 1099,
(1851) 2910, (1861) 4194, (1871) 6165, (ISSl) 6384, of
whom 772 belonged to Benquhat, 525 to Burnfoothill,
383 to Craigmark, 1165 to Lethanhill, and 1473 to
Waterside.— 0/-rf. Sur., shs. 14, 8, 1863.
Dalmennoch, a small bay in Inch parish, Wigtown-
shire, on the E side of Loch Ryan, 3^ miles NNE of
Stranraer. It has excellent anchorage.
Dalmeny, a village and a coast parish of NE Linlith-
gowshire. The village stands 3 furlongs N by E of
Dalmeny station on the Queensferry branch of the
North British, this being If mile SE of South Queens-
ferry and 8| miles WNW of Edinburgh, under which
there is a post office of Dalmeny ; a pretty little place,
it commands from its rising-gi-ound a fine view over the
neighbouring Firth.
The parish, containing also the hamlet of Craigie, in-
cludes the island of Ixchgarvie, but since 1636 has
excluded the roj'al bm-gh of South Queexsfeery, which
it surrounds on all the landward sides. It is bounded
N by the Firth of Forth (here from 9 furlongs to 3|
miles broad), E by Cramond, S by Corstorphine in Mid-
lothian and hj Kirkliston, and W by Abercom. Its
utmost length, from E to W, is 4| miles ; its \vidth,
from N to S, varies between IJ and 3 miles ; and its
area is 6797^ acres, of which 16f are water, and 656
belong to the detached Aldcathie portion. The river
Almoxd winds 2J mUes east-north-eastward, roughly
tracing all the Midlothian border ; and Dolphington
Burn runs to the Firth through the interior, whose sur-
face nowhere much exceeds 200 feet above sea-level. It
is, however, charmingly diversified by the three rocky
and well-wooded ridges of Dundas, Mons, and Craigie,
and falls rather rapidly northward to the Firth, where the
shore-line, 4f miles long, is backed by a steepish bank.
The rocks belong to the Calciferous Sandstone series,
with patches of basalt intruding at South QueensfeiTy,
Dundas Castle, Craigiehall, and Hound Point, and a
larger one of diorite over much of Dalmeny Park. The
soil of Aldcathie and of the higher grounds is generally
a shallow clay, on a cold bottom ; but that of the slopes
and low gi'ounds is a fertile loam, whereon thrive first-
rate crops of wheat, potatoes, and turnips, as also the
luxuriant and pictui'esque plantations of the Earl of
Roseberv. Noteworthy are two ash-trees at Craigiehall,
which, 80 and 90 feet high, girth 10;^ and 16 feet at 1
foot from the ground. Employment, other than that
of agriculture and those connected with South Queens-
ferry, is furnished by recently-established oilworks.
John Durie, a learned divine and would-be uniter of
divided churches, was minister from 1648 to 1656 ;
and William Wilkie, D.D. (1721-72), eccentric author
of the forgotten Epigoniad, was born at Echline farm.
In 1C62 Sir Archibald Primrose, Bart., lord-clerk-regis-
ter of Scotland and a lord of session, late lord-justice-
general, purchased from the fourth Earl of Haddington
the barony of Barnbougle and Dalmeny ; his third
son, Archibald, was, in 1700, created Baron Primrose
and Dalmeny and Viscount Rosebery, in 1703 Earl of
Rosebery ; and his fifth descendant, Archibald Philip
Primrose (b. 1847 ; sue. 1868), holds 24,220 acres in Mid
and West Lothian, valued at £24,844 per annum (£2616
for minerals). See Rosebery and JIallexy. On 3
Sept. 1842, a very wot day, the Queen and Prince Albert
drove over to lunch at Dalmeny. The jiark is described
in her Joui'nal as ' beautiful, with trees growing down
to the sea. It commands a very fine view of the Firth,
339
DALMIGAVIE
the Isle of May, the Bass Rock, and of Edinburgh. The
grounds are very extensive, being hill and dale and
wood The house is quite modern ; Lord Rosebery
built it, and it is very pretty and comfortable.' On 16
Aug. 1877 Her Majesty again visited Dalmeny Park.
Other mansions, both separately noticed, are Dundas
Castle and Craigiehall. Dalmeny is in the presbji:ery
of Linlithgow and s}Tiod of Lothian and Tweeddale ;
the li\'ing is worth £434. The church, at the village,
contains 350 sittings, and, consisting of nave and chancel,
is the most perfect specimen of Norman architecture to
be found in Scotland. "Without, the chief feature is ' the
main entrance door in a porch projecting to the S, the
archway of which is supported on two plain pillars with
Norman capitals. There are over this door the remains
of a line, concentric with the arch, of sculptured figures
and animals, many of which are fabulous, and bear a
considerable resemblance to those which appear on the
ancient sculptured stones. . . . The interior has a fine
massive simple effect. The small chancel, lower than
the rest of the church, is in the form of an apse, con-
sisting of a semicircle with the arc outwards, under a
groined arch, the ribs of which are deeply moulded and
ornamented with tooth-work.' So wrote Dr John Hill
Burton in Billings' Antiquities (1845); and at Dalmeny
that able antiquary and historian was fitly buried, 13
Aug. 1881. Two public schools, under a common
school-board, Dalmeny and South Queensferry, with
respective accommodation for 160 and 275 children, had
(1880) an average attendance of 102 and 149, and grants
of £82, 7s. and £101, lOs. Valuation (1860) £11,404,
(1882) £17,251, 8s. 9d. Pop. of parish (1801) 765, (1831)
1291, (1861) 1274, (1871) 1492, (1881) 1643, of whom 612
were in South Queensferry parliamentary burgh ; of
registration district (1871)916, (1881) Wil.—Ord. Sur.,
8h. 32, 1857.
Daimigavie, an estate, with a mansion, in Moy and
Dalarossie parish, NE Inverness-shire, on the right
bank of the upper Findhorn, 19 miles SSW of Tomatin.
Its OAvner, .ffineas Mackintosh, Esq. (b. 1813), holds
7000 acres in the shire, valued at £489 per annum.
Dalmonach. See Boxhill.
Dalmore, an estate, with a mansion, in Stair parish,
Ayrshire, on the left bank of the river Ajt, 3 miles S of
Tarbolton.
Dalmore, a seaport village in Rosskeen parish, Ross-
flhire, on the Cromarty Firth, f mile SE of Alness station,
and 25 miles W of Invergordon. From Belleport pier,
J mile to the E, considerable quantities of timber are
shipped for the N of England ; and there are also a
distiller}-, a flour-mill, and a steam saw-mill.
Dalmuir, a burn and a village in Old Kilpatrick
parish, Dumbartonshire. The burn rises among the
Kilpatrick Hills in Cochno and other head-streams, col-
lecting which in the north-eastern vicinity of Duntocher
it thence runs 2^ miles south-westward to the Clyde.
The village stands on the burn, 3 furlongs above its
mouth, and 1| mile SE of Kilpatrick village, with a
station on the Dumbarton section of the North British,
9f miles NW by W of Glasgow, under which it has a
post office. Near it are chemical works and the huge
Clydebank shipbuilding yard and engineering works,
whli-li cover 30 acres, and employ 2000 men.
Dalmullin or Dalmelling, a place in St Quivox parish,
Ayrshire, If mile E by N of Ayr. A Gilbertine priory
was founded here in 1230 by Walter, Lord High Steward
of Scotland ; but in 1238 it became a cell of Paisley
Abbey.
Daimyot. See Du.vmy.\t.
Dalnacardoch, a .shooting-lodge (erst a stage-coach
hostelry) in I>lair Athole parish, Perthshire, on the
great Highland road from Pertli to Inverness, and on the
left bank of the Garry, 6 J miles WNW of Struan station.
Here Prince Charles Edward passed the night of 29 Aug.
1745 ; and here on 9 Oct. 1861 the Queen and Prince
Consort, travelling incognito, had ' a shal)l)y pair of
horses put in, with a shabby driver driving from the bo.\.'
Dalnaspidal (Gael, dail-an-spi'leal, 'field of the hos-
pice'), a station on the Highland railway in Blair
340
DALEY
Athole parish, Peri;hshire, within 5 furlongs of the foot
of Loch Garry, and 15f miles WNW of "Blair Athole
village. Near it is a shooting-lodge of the Duke of
Athole ; and, named after an ancient hospitium or small
inn, it lies amid a wild, bleak, alpine tract, where
numerous standing stones and cairns mark the graves of
persons who fell in battle or perished in the snow. A
party of Cromwell's troops, encamping here, were
attacked and worsted bj' the men of Athole and some of
the Camerons of Lochiel ; and here, on the night of 16
March 1746, Lord George Murray divided the force with
which he proposed to take Blair Castle.
Dalnavert, an estate, with a mansion, in Alvie parish,
Inverness-shire, near the right bank of the Spey, 1^
mile ENE of Kincraig station.
Dalness, a shooting-lodge in Ardchattan parish, Argjdl-
shire, on the right bank of the Etive, 5i miles NNE of
the head of Loch Etive, and 18 NE of TaynuUt. The
Etive here makes a very fine waterfall.
Dalnotter House, a mansion in Old Kilpatrick parish,
Dumbartonshire, adjacent to the Clyde, f mile SE ot
Old Kilpatrick village.
Dalpersie or Terpersie, a small old castellated mansion
(now a farraliou.se) in Tullyuessle parish, Aberdeenshire,
1 mile NW of Tullyuessle church.
Dalquhaxran Castle, a fine mansion in Dailly parish,
Ayrshire, on the right bank of Girvan Water, 5 furlongs
E of Dailly station, this being 7f miles SSW of Maybole.
Built about 1790, it was the seat of the Right Hon.
Thos. Fran. Kennedy (1788-1879), who sat for the Ajt
burghs from 1818 till 1884, and whose son and successor,
Fran. Thos. Romilly Kennedy, Esq. (b. 1842), holds
4142 acres in the shire, valued at £5941 per annum, in-
cluding £900 for minerals.
Dalquhum. See Renton.
Dalree. See Dalry.
Dalreoch, a quoad sacra parish in Cardross parish,
Dumbartonshire, with a station on the Vale of Leven
raihva}', ^ mile N by W of Dumbarton. Constituted in
1873, it includes the Dumbarton suburbof West Bridgend,
and is in the presljytery of Dumbarton and synod of
Glasgow and Ajt. Stipend £120. The church, in West
Bridgend, was erected iu 1871, and is a handsome edifice.
Pop. (ISSl) 3634.
Dalrigh. See Dalry.
Dalruadhain. See Campbeltown.
Dairy, a town and a parish in Cunninghame district,
AjTshire. The town stands on a rising-ground between
Rye and Caaf Waters, and at the right side of the river
Garnock, 3 furlongs W by N of Dairy Junction on the
main line of the Glasgow and South-Western railwaj',
this being 15^ miles SW of Paisley, 22i SW of Glasgow,
70i WSW of Edinburgh, Hi NW of Kilmarnock, 9 NE
of Ardrossan, 6if N by W of Irvine, and 17^ N by W of
AjT. A tract of countrj' around it was anciently under
special royal jurisdiction, and bore the name of the
King's District or Valley (Gael, dail-righ) ; and a field
on which its first houses were built was called the King's
Field (Gael, croftanrigh), a name that it still retains
in the slightly modified form of Croftangry. The parish
church, St Margaret's, dependent once upon Kilwin-
ning Abbey, and originally occupying a different site,
was rebuilt on that field about the year 1608, and gave
origin to the town. The site is eligible enough for a
seat of traffic and industry, and commands an extensive
southward and north-eastward view ; but, owing to
great freshets in the Garnock, the Rj'e, and the Caaf, it
sometimes has almost the aspect of an island. The
town was long no more than a petty hamlet, in 1700
comprising but six dwelling-houses, and about the be-
ginning of this century numbering barely 800 inhabit-
ants ; afterwards it rose somewhat speedily to the
dimensions of a smallish town, with a population of
about 2000 in 1835. Some nine j-ears later it started
into sudden importance as a seat of business for the
great neighbouring iron-works of Blair and Glengar-
XOCK ; and then assumed, along with its environs, an
appearance so different from what it had borne before,
that a visitor acquainted with it only in its former cor-
DALRY
DALEY
(lition woiild hardly have kuo\TO it for the same place.
Now consisting of twelve streets, it contains great
numbers of well-built modern houses and not a few ex-
cellent shops, and has a post office, ■with money order,
savings' bank, insurance, and telegi'aph departments,
branches of the British Linen Co., Clydesdale, and
Union banks, 16 insurance agencies, 4 hotels, gas-works,
town buildings, with library and reading-room, a Good
Templars' hall, assembly rooms, 3 woollen factories, a
worsted mill, an oil and stearine factory, etc. Thurs-
day is market-day, and a fair is held on .31 July and 1
August. A gravitation water supply, capable of afford-
ing 130,000 gallons per diem, has been introduced at a
cost of £9000 ; and in the centre of the town is a hand-
some granite fountain. The parish church was rebuilt in
1771, and again in 1S71-73, the present being a cniciform
Gothic edifice, with 1100 sittings, stained ^vindows of
Munich glass, and a tower and spire 124 feet high.
Other places of worship are the AVest Established church,
a Free church, a U. P. church (508 sittings), and St
Palladius' Roman Catholic church (1851 ; 500 sittings).
Besides a j^ublic school at Burxside and Kersland
Barony school at Dex, the 3 public schools of Blair-
mains, Townend, and AYest End (enlarged at a cost of
£3000), and Dairy female industrial Church of Scotland
school, with respective accommodation for 100, 296,
625, and 192 children, had (1880) an average attendance
of 44, 293, 476, and 166, and grants of £32, 13s., £263,
8s., £449, 6s., and £130, 3s. Pop. (1851) 2706, (1861)
4232, (1871) 4133, (1881) 4021.
The jmrish contains also the villages of Blair AVorks,
Burnside, Den, Drakemyre, and Riddens, with part of
Glengarnock. A^ery irregular in outline, it is bounded
N by Kilbirnie, NE by Beith, SE by Kilwinning, S by
Kihvinniug and Ardrossan, AV by AVest Kilbride, and
NAV by Largs. Its utmost length, from KXAV to SSE,
is 9 miles ; its breadth, from EXE to AA^SAV, varies
between J mile and 6| miles ; and its area is 19,361
acres, of which 77 are water. The river Girxock, com-
ing in from Kilbirnie, flows 6| miles south-by-westward
through the interior and along the Kilbirnie and Kil-
winning borders ; it is followed throughout this course
by the Glasgow and South-AVestern railway, and receives
on the right hand Rye and Caaf AVaters, and Bombo
Burn and Dusk AA^'ater on the left. The surface, sinking
in the extreme S to 85 feet above sea-level, thence
rises north-eastward to 239 feet at Muirhead, 334 at
Bowertrapping, and 357 near East Middlebank — north-
north-westward and northward to 302 near Linn House,
869 at Gill Hill, 1099 at Baidlaxd Hill, 1216 at Cock
Law, 1261 at Green Hill, 652 at Carwinxixg Hill, and
1378 at Rough HlU, whose summit, however, falls just
A\ithin Largs. The rocks are partly eruptive, partly car-
boniferous. Limestone has long been largely worked ;
and coal is mined of excellent quality, partly in seams
from 2| to 5 feet thick. Ironstone, of very rich quality,
began to be worked about 1845, when two farms which
had been sold to the Glengarnock Iron Company for
£18,000 were shortly afterwards resold to the Blair
Iron Company for £35,000. Agates have been found in
the bed of the Rye. The soil along the Girnock is deep
alluvial loam, and to the E of it is chiefly thin, cold,
retentive clay. In some parts to the AV of the Girnock,
it is an adhesive clay ; along the base of the hills, has
generally a light dry character, incumbent on either
limestone or trap ; and elsewhere is often reclaimed moss.
Antiquities, other than those of Blair and Carwinning,
are cairns and a moat near the to^vn — the Courthill
Mound, which, excavated in the winter of 1872, was
found to contain large deposits of human bones and
ashes. The Blairs have been lairds of Blair for wellnigh
seven centuries ; one of the line. Sir Bryce, was foully
murdered at Ayr by the English in 1296. Anotlier of
Dairy's worthies was Sir Robert Cunningham, physician
to Charles II. ; and Captain Thomas Craufurd of
Jordanhill (1530-1603), who gallantly took Dumbartox
Castle in 1571, spent the close of his life at Kersland.
The chief mansions are Blair, Gifl"en, Kirklaxd,
Linn, Maulside, Ryefield, Swindridgemuir, Swinlees,
and AA^'aterside ; and 8 proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 43 of between £100 and
£500, 32 of from £50 to £100, and 88 of from £20 to
£50. Dairy is in the presbytery of Irvine and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth £364. AA'^est and
Kersland Barony churches are chapels of ease. A^alua-
tion (1860) £70,893 ; (1882) £44,227 ; ^J^iW £6798 for
railways. Pop. (1801) 832, (1831) 1246, (1841) 4791,
(1851) 8865, (1861) 11,156, (1871) 10,885, (1881) 10,215.
—Orel. Sur., sh. 22, 1865.
Dairy, a village and a parish of N Kirkcudbrightshire.
The village stands, 200 feet above sea-level, on the left
bank of the Ken, near the southern extremity of the
parish, 3^ miles NNAV of New GaUoway, and 9| NAV
by N of Parton station, with which it communicates
t\vice a day by omnibus. Called variously Dairy,
Claughan of Dahy, and St John's Town of Dairy, it
offers a picturesque assemblage of houses, irregularly
scattered over a considerable space of gi'ound, with
gardens, hedges, and rows of trees ; at it are a post
and telegi-aph office, a branch of the Union Bank, a
good hotel, and a public hall (1858). Pop. (1861) 639,
(1871) 637, (1881) 585.
The parish was anciently one with Kells, Balmaclellan,
and Carsphairn, comprising the entire district of Glen-
kens, and had several chapels, all subordinate to a
mother church. It is bounded NAV by New Cumnock,
in Ayrshire ; N by Sanquhar and NE by Penpont,
in Dumfriesshire ; E b}- Tjmron and Glencairn, also in
Dumfriesshire ; SE by Balmaclellan ; SAA^ by Kells ; and
AV by Kells and Carsphairn. Its utmost length, from
N by E to S by AV, is 15 J mUes ; its breadth, from E to
AA'', varies between 1^ and 71 mUes ; and its area is
34,729| acres, of which 194 are water. In the extreme
N, close to the meeting-point of Kirkcudbright, Ayr,
and Dumfries shires, the AVater of Kex rises at 1870
feet above sea-level, and thence winds 21J miles south-
south-westward and south -south -eastward, mainly
along the Carsphairn and Kells borders ; it is joined by
Carroch Burn, Black AA'ater, Earlston Bum, and
other streams from the interior, and by Garpel Burn,
which rims south-westward along the boundary with
Balmaclellan. That with Glencairn is traced for 2;^ miles
by Castlefern Burn ; and in the interior are these four
lakes, Avith utmost length and breadth and altitude, —
Lochixvar (4|- X 2h furl. ; 770 feet), Knocksting
(IJ X li furl. ; 980 feet), Regland (1^ x ^ furl. ; 900
feet), and Knockman (IJ x ^ furl. ; 875 feet). At the
southern extremity, where the Ken quits the parish,
the surface sinks to 165 feet above sea-level, thence
rising northward and north-eastward to 559 feet near
Kirkland, 825 near Gordonston, 700 at Ardoch Hill,
1062 at Corse Hill, 1127 at Stroan Hill, 1262 at AVether
HUl, 950 at Mackilston Hill, 1127 at Gleushimeroch
Hill, 1154 at Lochlee Hill, 1188 at Fingland Hill, 1300
near Cornharrow, 1376 at ManwhUl, 1900 at *Benbrack,
1750 at Coranbac Hill, 1900 at *Ewe Hill, 2063 at
*Alwhat, and 2100 a* Lorg Hill, where asterisks mark
those summits that culminate on the borders of the
parish. Granite and trap are the prevailing rocks ; but
lalue slate occurs, and has been quarried. The southern
district consists in gi'eat measure of rich arable land
and fertile holms, interspersed with wood ; the northern
is all an assemblage of swelling liills and heathy moun-
tains. A pavement, found at Chapelyards, on Bogue
farm, in 1868, is thought to mark the site of a religious
house ; and besides several moats, cairns, and hill-forts,
there are remains of a stronghold on an islet in Lochin-
var, a trench — the 'AA^highole' — near the top of a hill
on Altrye farm, the Gordons' old tower of Earlston,
and, at the village, a large stone, known as St John's
Chair. David Landsborough, D.D. (1782-1854), poet
and naturalist, was a native ; so, too, was John Gordon
Barliour (1775-1843), author of several works, and
a friend of Hogg and 'Christopher North.' He is
buried in the churchyard, where also rest three mar-
tyred Covenanters. The old church was associated
with a Tam-o'-Shanter-like legend, and in it Grierson
of Lag stabled his troopers' horses ; whilst at this vil-
341
DALRY
lage originated the great Covenanters' rising, that ended
at Rullion Green. Three proprietors hold each an an-
nual value of £500 and upwards, 3 of between £100
and £500, 3 of from £50 to £100, and 13 of from £20
to £50. Dalrj- is in the presbytery of Kirkcudbright
and synod of Galloway ; the living is worth £337. The
]n-esent parish church was built in 1S32 at a cost of
£1400, and contains 700 sittings. At the village is also
a U.P. church (1826 ; 200 sittings) ; and Glenkens Free
church stands at Bogue, li nnle'to the E. Three public
schools— Corseglass, Dairy, and Stroanfreggan— with re-
spective accommodation for 37, 125, and 32 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 12, 105, and 10, and
grants of £27, 2s., £78, lis. 8d., and £25, 9s. Valua-
tion (1860) £7792, (1882) £13.275, 13s. 4d. Pop. (1801)
832, (1831) 1246, (1861) 1149, (1871) 1074, (1881) 988.
—Ord. Sur., sh. 9, 1863.
Dairy. See EDiXBuncir.
Dairy, Dalrigh, or Dalree, a place in the W of Killin
parish, W Perthshire, near StrathfiUan Free church,
and li mile SE of Tyndrum station. It was the scene
in 1306 of a sharp skirmish between Robert Bruce and
^lacdougal of Lorn, when the famous Brooch of Lorn,
graphically described in Scott's Lord of the Isles, and
said to be still in possession of the Macdougals of Dun-
oily, was torn from Bruce.
Dalrymple, a village and a parish on the SW bor-
der of Kyle district, Ayrsliire. The village, a pleasant
little place, stands on the right bank of the Doou, 9 fur-
longs SE of Dalr3Tnple station on the Ajt and Girvan
section of the Glasgow and South-Western, this being
4^ miles SSE of Ayr, under which it has a post office.
Near it is a pirn mill, supplying the Paisley Anchor
Thread Co. Pop. (1861) 261, (1871) 309, (1881) 300.
The parish, containing also Skkluon JIills, is bounded
NW by Ayr, NE and E by Coylton, SE by Dalmelling-
ton, S by Straiton and Kirkmichael, and W by May-
bole. Its utmost length, from WNW to ESE, is 7^
miles ; its breadth, from NE to SW, varies between \^
and 4| miles ; and its area is 7960 acres, of which 127|
are water. The 'bonny Doox,' running amidst alter-
nations of bold and wooded banks and fertile haughs,
winds lOf miles west-north-westward along all the Kirk-
michael and Maybole boundary ; and Loch ilAUTNAHAM,
»vith utmost length and breadth of 1\ and ^ mile, lies
on the Coylton border 290 feet above sea-level, and sends
off a rivulet south-westward to the Doon. In the interior
are Lochs Snipe (1-J^xi furh) and Kerse (3x1 furl.).
Where the Doon quits the parish, near Macmanniestou,
the surface sinks to 120 feet above sea-level, thence rising
to 305 near Balsarroch, 379 near Merkland, 417 near Ben-
ston, 533 at Laurieston, 545 at Knockshinnoch, 1112 at
Bow Hill, and 1406 at Kilmein Hill — little roiinded
eminences that command extensive and varied views over
land and firth to Arran, Ben Lomond, and the Grampians.
The rocks are partly eruptive, but chiefly Devonian and
carboniferous ; and limestone and ironstone are worked.
The soil on a few of the eminences is barren clay, on
most is argillaceous loam, and on the lands along the
streams and lochs is a sandy or gravelly loam. Some
1900 acres ai"e hill pasture or meadow, about 500 are
under wood, and all the rest of the land is arable.
The chief antiquities are remains of three Caledonian
forts and traces of the Roman road to Ayr. Dalrymple
barony, belonging in the 13th century to a family of
its own name, from which are descended the Earls of
Stair, passed in 1371-77 to John Kennedy of Dunure,
ancestor of the Marquis of Ailsa and Earl of Cassillis,
who is at present chief proprietor. Mansions are Shel-
don and Hollybush ; and 4 proprietors besides the Mar-
quis hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards,
2 of between £100 and £500, and 5 of from £20 to
£50. Dalrymple is in the presbytery of Ayr and synod
of Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth £394. The
church, near the village, was built in 1849. There is
also a Free church (1863) ; and Dalrj'mple public school
and the Dalmellington Iron-works srhool at Kerse, with
respective accommodation for 150 and 165 children, had
(1880) an average attendance of 129 and 135, and grants
342
DALSERF
of £107, 9s. and £101, 13s. Valuation (1882) £11,742,
lis. 8d., i)lus £4451 for railways. Pop. (1801) 514,
(1831) 964, (1861) 1325, (1871) 1412, (1881) 1362.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 14, 1863.
Dalserf, a Clydesdale village and parish in the Middle
Ward of Lanarkshire. The village, standing on the left
bank of the Clyde, 1 mile E of Ayr-Road station, 3 miles
ESE of Larkhall, and 7 SE of Hamilton, was formerly a
place of some size and importance, but has long been
going steadily into decay, and now consists of only a
few low-roofed cottages, situated among gardens.
The parish, which also contains the villages of Mill-
IIEUGU and Rosebank, and most of the town of Lakk-
HALL, formed anciently the chapelry of JMachan under
Cadzow or Hamilton, itself being known as Machanshire ;
and, having passed from the Comyns to the royal Bruces,
and from them again to an ancestor of the Duke of Hamil-
ton, was afterwards divided among junior branches of
the Hamilton family, and, probably about the era of the
Reformation, was constituted a parish, taking name from
Dalserf village. It is bounded NW by Hamilton, NE by
Cambusnethan and Carluke, SE by Lesmahagow, and
SW by Stonehouse. Kite-shax3ed in outline, it has an
utmost length from N by W to S by E of 5§ miles, an
utmost breadth from E to W of 3^ miles, and an area of
7035f acres, of which 79^ are water. The Clyde winds
4g miles north-westward along all the Carluke and Cam-
busnethan border ; Cander Water 2:^ miles north-north-
westward to the Avon along the Stonehouse border ;
and Avon Water itself 3| miles, also north-north-west-
ward along the Stonehouse and Hamilton border. Where
the Clyde Cjuits the parish, opposite Lower Carbarn, the
surface sinks to less than 100 feet above sea-level, thence
rising to 345 feet beyond Larkhall, 477 at Strutherhill,
576 at Canderdikehead, and 623 at Cander Moss, in the
southern corner of the parish, whose interior forms a
sort of plateau between the Clyde and the Avon. The
rocks are chiefly of the Carboniferous formation. Coal
abounds, and is extensively mined at Ashgill, Broomhill,
Canderside, Cornsilloch, Skcllyton, etc. ; ironstone is
known to be plentiful ; and sandstone, of quality to
furnish excellent building blocks, is largely quarried.
The soil, along the Clyde, is rich alluvium ; on the banks
rising steeply from the Clyde, is of various quality ; and,
on the higher grounds, is mostly strong heavy clay.
All the land, except a small patch or two of moss, is
either regularly or occasionally cultivated. The tract
adjacent to the Clyde lies almost in the heart of the
luxuriant range of the Clydesdale orchards, and was
famed for its fruit from ver}' early times ; but, o\\4ng to
frequent failure of crops and increasing importation of
fruit from England, Ireland, and foreign countries, has
ceased to be exclusively devoted to orchard purposes.
The dairy, on the other hand, for butter, cheese, and
fatted calves, has much attention paid to it. The Rev.
John Macmillan, founder of the Reformed Presbyterians
in 1743, lived for some time near Millheugh, and lies in
Dalserf churchyard ; and the Rev. James Hog, one of
the twelve vindicators of the famous Marrow ^Modern
Divinity (1721), was parish minister. The principal
mansions are Buoomhill, Dalserf House, and Millburn
House; and much of the property is divided between
the Hamiltons of Raploch and the Hamiltons of Dalserf,
the latter holding 3200 acres in the shire, valued at
£4700 per annum. Three other proprietors hold each
an annual value of £500 and upwards, 11 of between
£100 and £500, 19 of from £50 to £100, and 36 of from
£20 to £50. In the presbytery of Hamilton and synod
of Glasgow and Ayr, this parish is divided into the
quoad sacra parishes of LAiUvn.\LL and Dalserf, the
latter being worth £373. The church, at the village,
was built in 1655, and contains 500 sittings. Two
public schools, Dalserf and Shawsburn, with respective
accommodation for 202 and 300 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 198 and 189, and grants of
£191, 3s. and £168, 3s. Valuation (1860) £19,313,
(1882) £34,594, 8s. Pop. (1801) 1660, (1831) 2680, (1861)
4876, (1871) 7341, (1881) 9376, of whom 2674 were in
Ddhcvi quoad aacra parish. — Ord. Sur., sh. 23, 1865.
DALSHOLM
DALZIEL
Dalsholm or Dawsholm, a village in New Kilpatrick
parish, SE Dumbartonshire, on the right bank of the
Kelvin, 4;^ miles NW of Glasgow. It has a paper-mill
and beautiful environs ; and near it is an ancient artitieial
mound, the Courthill, supposed to have been a seat of
feudal courts of justice.
Dalskaith, an estate, with a mansion, in Troqueer
parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, 3 miles SW of Dumfiies.
Dalswinton, a small village, with a public school, in
Kirkmahoe parish, Dumfriesshire, 2 miles SE b}' E of
Auldgirth station, and 7i NNW of Dumfries, under
which it has a post office. Dalswinton House, 1 mile
SSE, and within ^ mile of the Kith's right bank, is an
elegant and commodious mansion, erected by LIr Patrick
Miller (1731-1815), Burns's landlord, on the site of an
ancient castle of the Comyns. This self-made genius
launched on an isleted loch (2x1 furl. ) one of the
earliest steamboats, with the most perfect success, 14
Oct. 1788. ' He spent,' says Carlyle, 'his life and his
estate in that adventure, and is not now to be heard of
in those parts, having had to sell Dals^^'inton and die
quasi-bankrupt, and, I should think, broken-hearted'
{Reminiscences, i. 129, 130). The estate, held formerly by
ComjTis, Stewarts, and Maxwells, is now the property of
William MacaliHue-Leny, Esq. (b. 1839; sue. 1867), who
holds 5724 acres in the shire, valued at £4282 per annum.
Dalton, a village and a parish of Annandale, Dum-
friesshire. The village stands on Dalton Bm-n, 6 miles
SSE of Lockerbie, under which it has a post office.
The parish, comprising the ancient parishes of Meikle
and Little Dalton, and annexed to Mouswald from 1609
till 1633, is bounded N by Lochmaben, NE by Dr3'fes-
dale and St Mungo, SE by Cummertrees, S by Ruth-
well, and W by Mouswald. With a very irregular out-
line, it has an utmost length from NNW to SSE of 5|
miles, an utmost breadth from E to W of 3§ miles, and
an area of 6941 acres, of which 55 are water. The river
Anxax ■\^•inds 4^ miles south-eastward along all the
Dryfesdale and St Mungo border, and its tributary,
Dalton Burn, twists and turns 5f miles SSE, ENE, and
N, through the interior ; whilst Pow Water, rising in
the S, passes off direct to the Solway Firth through
Ruthwell and Cummertrees. The surface, nowhere
lower than 150 feet above sea-level, is flat or but gently
imdulated over all the S and E of the parish, but in the
NW attains 604 feet at Butterwhat, 720 at Almagill,
and 800 at Holmains. The rocks are partly eruptive,
partly Devonian, and largely Silurian. The soil, in
most of the low tracts, is light alluvial loam ; in most of
the higher ground is sand and gravel ; and in some
parts is a cold clay on a till bottom, with a few patches
of reclaimed bog. About 600 acres are pastoral or waste,
500 or so are under wood, and all the rest of the land is
arable. AVm. Beattie, M.D. (1793-1875), biographer of
the poet Campbell, was a native. Dormont and Eam-
MEESCALES are the chief mansions ; and 3 proprietors
hold each an annual value of more, 5 of less, than £500.
Dalton is in the presbytery of Lochmaben and synod of
Dumfries ; the living is worth £283. The parish church,
built in 1704, contains 300 sittings ; and a public school,
with accommodation for 85 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 60, and a grant of £51, 17s.
Valuation (1882) £7077, 6s. 3d. Pop. (1801) 691,
(1831) 730, (1861) 679, (1871) 577, (1881) 579.— Orel.
Sur., sh. 10, 1864.
Dalton. See Lightburx.
Daltonhook, a place on the SW border of Dryfesdale
parish, Dumfriesshire. It has lime-works and vestiges
of an ancient strong tower.
Dalvaddy, a hamlet in Campbeltown parish, Argyll-
shire, 3 miles W of Campbeltown town. Coal of an
inferior quality is mined adjacent to it, and is conveyed
by a canal to Campbeltown.
Dalveen, a wild pass (1200 feet) over the Lowther
Mountains, from the head -streams of Powtrail AVater in
Crawford parish, Lanarkshire, to those of Carron Water
in Durisdeer, Dumfriesshire.
Dalvey, a place in Croradale parish, S Elginshire, on
the right bank of the Spey, 6 miles NE of Grantown.
Dalvey House, a handsome modern mansion in Dyke
and Mov parish, Elginshire, crowning a knoll, on the
left bank of the Muckle Burn, 2i miles W by S of
Forres. Its owner, Norman Macleod, Esq. (b. 1857 ;
sue. 1876), holds 1328 acres in the shire, valued at
£1357 per annum.
Dalwhat Water, a stream of Glencaim parish, W
Dumfriesshire, rising at an altitude of 1680 feet within
^ mile of the Kirkcudbrightshire border, and running 10
miles east-south-eastward, till, f mile below Moniaive,
it unites with Craigdarroch and Castlefern Waters to
form Cairn AVater.— Ord Sur., sh. 9, 1863.
Dalwhinnie, a station on the Highland railway in
Kingussie parish, Inverness-shire, on the Truim's left
bank, 1 mile NE of the head of Loch Ericht, 13 miles
SSW of Kingussie, and 58f NAV of Perth. Here are a
post and telegraph office and the Loch Ericht Hotel,
successor to an inn, which, built by Government, was
an important stage in the old coaching days, from its
vicinity to the Pass of Drumochter. At Dalwhinnie,
Cope held a council of war on 27 Aug. 1745, and two
days later Prince Charles Edward was joined by Dr
Cameron, bringing Cluny Macpherson ; at Dalwhinnie
inn, too, the Queen and Prince Consort, during their
' Third Great Expedition ' incognito, passed the night
of 8 Oct. 1861, supping off two miserable starved High-
land chickens, T\"ith onl}' tea, and without any potatoes,
and on the morrow receiving a visit from the present
Cluny Macpherson (pp. 165, 166, of the Quee7i's Journal,
ed. 1877).
Dalwick. See Da wick.
Dalyell Lodge. See Dalgairn.
Dalziel, a central parish of the middle ward of Lanark-
shire, containing the village of Craignetik, and, at its
western border, the greater part of the police burgh of
Motherwell, this being 2h miles NE of Hamilton,
124 ESE of Glasgow, and" 5| SSE of Coatbridge.
Bounded NAV and N by Bothwell, NE by Shotts, SE
by Cambusnethan, and SAV by Hamilton, it has an
ritmost length from NAA'' to SE of 3J miles, an utmost
breadth from NE to SAV of 2§ miles, and an area of
3085 acres, of which 45f are water. South Calder
AA^ater traces all the Shotts and most of the Bothwell
boundary as it meanders westward to the Clyde, which
itself flows north-westward for 2g miles, and again for 3f
furlongs, along the Hamilton border. Sinking beside
the Clyde to less than 100 feet above sea-level, the sur-
face thence rises eastward to 259 feet near North Mother-
well, 308 near AVindmillhill Street, and 322 near Middle
Johnston, and forms in the centre and towards the SE
a flatfish ridge or low plateau. The rocks, belonging to
the Carboniferous formation, abound in coal, ironstone,
and sandstone flag, whose working, conjointly with the
establishment of iron and steel works at Motherwell,
has led to the abnormal growth of population. The soil
on the low grounds along the Clyde is fertile alluvial
loam, and elsewhere is mostly a heavy yellow clay.
About 50 acres are disposed in orchards, and woods or
plantations cover 400 more. The Roman AA^'atling Street
ran through this parish from ESE to AA'"NW; and a bar-
tizaned summer-house in the grounds of Dalzell House,
commanding a brilliant view, was built in 1736 on the
site of a Roman camp. This Dalzell House, J mile
from the Clyde's right bank, and If SSE of Mother-
well, was built in 1649 by Hamilton of Boggs, two years
after his purchase of the estate from the Earl of Carn-
wath, whose ancestors, the Dalzells, had held it from
time immemorial. Described by Hamilton of AA'ishaw
as 'a gi'eat and substantial house,' it adjoins a much
older peel-tower, 50 feet high, with walls 8 feet in
thickness; its owner, John Glencairn Carter Hamilton,
Esq. (b. 1829 ; sue. 1834), possesses 2460 acres in the
shire, valued at £14,959 per annum, including £10,779
for minerals. Six other proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 16 of between £100 and
£500, 20 of from £50 to £100, and 26 of from £20 to
£50. In the presbytery of Hamilton and synod of Glas-
gow and Ayr, this parish is divided ecclesiastically into
Dalziel and South Dalziel, the latter a quoad sacra
343
DAMFF
parish constituted in 1880, its church tlie old parish
church (1789 ; enlarged 1860 ; 658 sittings) in AVindmill-
hill Street. Dalziel itself (a living worth £210) has
now its church in Merry Street, Moth eu well, under
which and Craigneuk other places of worship are noticed.
Five schools — Craigneuk, Dalziel, Jluir Street, Mother-
well Iron-works, and ^Motherwell Roman Catholic — with
respective accommodation for 666, 448, 400, 425, and 238
children, had (1880) an average attendance of 350, 433,
271, 473, and 317, and grants of £293, ISs., £340, lis.,
£150, 12s., £402, 13s. 6d., and £233, 14s. Another
Roman Catholic school, at Craigneuk, was opened in
ISSO. Valuation (1860) £21,956, (1880) £61,325, (1882)
£55,942. Fop. (1801) 611, (1831) 1180, (1861) 5438,
(1871) 9175, (1881) 13,864.— Orrf. Siir., shs. 23, 31,
1S65-67.
Damflf. See D.^^mph.
Damhead, a village in Arngask parish, at the meeting-
point of the counties of Kinross, Fife, and Perth, in
a vale of the Ochil Hills, 3 miles NN\V of Mawcarse
station, and 4f N by E of Milnathort. It has a post
office under Kinross.
Damph or Loch an Daimh, a lake of Lochbroom
parish, in the Coigaeh district of Cromart3'shire, 10
miles E of Ullapool. Hill-girt, and fringed with birch
woods along its south-eastern shore, it lies at an altitude
of 672 feet above sea-level, is If mile long from SW to
NE, and has an utmost width of Iq furlong. It sends
off a streamlet to the Oykell, and its waters are well
stocked with trout— Orr^. Sicr., sh. 101, 1882.
Damph, a lake in Applecross parish, W Ross-shire,
^ niUes E of Shieldaig. Lying among high mountains,
it measures 3^ miles in length by i mile in width ;
abounds in trout; and sends off the Balgay to Upper
Loi-h Torridon.
Dams, a village in Kettle parish, Fife, 14 mile S of
Kettle village.
Damsay, an island of Firth parish, Orkney, in Firth
Bay, 4 miles WNW of Kirkwall. Measuring scarcely
a mile in circumference, it is so beautil'ul as to have
been sometimes styled the Tempe of the Orkneys ; it
anciently had a strong castle and a famous church,
which have entirely disappeared ; and it now is used
for the jiasturing of a few hundreds of sheep.
Damsbum, a hamlet in Logic parish, Clackmannan-
shire, 1^ mile W of Alva.
Damside, an estate, with a mansion, in Auchterarder
parish, Perthshire, If mile NE of the town. Its owner,
Mrs Macduff-Duncan (sue. 1872), holds 353 acres in the
shire, valued at £491 per annum.
Damyat. See Uunmyat.
Dandaleith, a beautiful haugh in Rothes parish, Elgin-
shire, on the left bank of the Spey, with a station on
the Morayshire railway, 2^ miles SSE of Rothes village,
ami f mile NW of Craigellachie Junction.
Dane's Dyke. See Cuail.
Daneshalt or Dunshelt, a village in Auchtermuchty
parish, Fife, 1^ mile SE of Auchtermuchty town, under
which it has a post office. It is said to have got its
name from the Danes' first halting here in their lliglit
from Falkland Moor ; and at it are gas-works, a linen
factory, farina works, and a public scliool, which, with
accommodation for 83 children, had (1880) an average
attendance of 56, and a grant of £41, 15s. Poj). (1861)
567, (1871) 483, (1881) 414.
Danevale Park, a mansion in Crossmichael parish,
Kirkcudl)rightshire, on the left bank of the Dee, 2f
miles NW of Castle-Douglas. Its owner, "Wm. Renny,
Es<|. (b. 1849 ; .sue. 1879), holds 610 acres in the shire,
valued at £1036 per annum.
Dankeith, an estate, with a mansion, in Symington
jiarisli, Ayrshire, 4f miles SE of Kilmarnock.
Danna, an inhabited island in North Knapdale parish,
Argyllshire.
Danskine, an inn in Garvald parish, Haddingtonshire,
5.i miles SE Vjy S of Hadilington.
Dara, a livulet in the N W of Aberdeenshire. It ri.ses
on tiie southern confines of Alierdour jiarish, and, bear-
ing for .some distance the name of Idoch Water, runs
344
DABNICE
10 miles south-westward, past Newbyth and Cumines-
town, till, making a bend near the middle of Turriff
parish, it thence runs 3 miles north-westward to the
Deveron, a little below Turriif town. — Ord. Sur., sh.
86, 1S76.
Dara Den. See Dura Den.
Dardar, a ravine in Aberdour parish, Aberdeenshire,
traversed by an impetuous brook to the Moray Firth.
A cascade of three successive leaps occurs in the brook's
course, and in times of freshet makes a somewhat grand
and striking appearance.
Dargavei, an estate, with a mansion, in Er,skine
parish, Renfrewshire. The mansion, 1 mile SSW of
Bishopton station, was built partly in 1574, partly at a
i-ecent period ; and is in the French style of Queen Mary's
reign ; its owner, AVilliam Hall-]\Iaxwell, Esq. (b. 1847 ;
sue. 1866), holds 803 acres in the shire, valued at £1621
per annum.
Dargie, a village in Liff and Benvie parish, Forfarshire,
near ^lylnefield, and 4 miles W of Dundee.
Dark Mile. See Archaig.
Darleith, an estate, with a mansion, in the SW of
Bonhill parish, Dumbarton.shire, 3 miles N by W of
Cardross. Its owner, Archibald Buchanan Yuille, Esq.
(b. 1812 ; sue. 1879), holds 1292 acres in the shire,
valued at £845 per annum.
Darlington. See Stewarton.
Darmead Linn. See Cambusnethan.
Darnaway Castle, a noble mansion in Dyke and Moy
parish, Elginshire, in the valley of the Findliorn, IJ
mile W of that river's left bank, and 2i miles SSE of
Brodie station, this being 3| miles W by S of Forres,
under which there is a post office of Darnaway. Crown-
ing a gentle eminence, and overtopping a vast extent of
forest, it commands a magnificent view, and was built
about 1810, being a large, oblong, castellated pile of
very imposing appearance — a seat of the Earl of Moray,
M'ho owns 21,669 acres in Elginshire, valued at £9420
per annum. Of the castle founded here by Randolph,
Earl of Moray, early in the 14tli century, nothing is
left but the banqueting hall, which, forming a back
Aving to the modern mansion, measures 89 feet in length
by 35 in width, and has an arched oaken roof, somewhat
similar to that of the Parliament House in Edinburgh.
It contains a portrait of the ' Bonny Earl of Moray ' who
was murdered at Donibristlc ; and in it Queen Mary
held her court in 1564. The park is finely wooded,
upwards of ten millions of trees having been planted
towards the close of last century, to fill up gaps in
Darnaway Forest, which extends into Edinkillie. See
Moray, Dyke, Donieuistle, Douxe, and Castle-
Srv ART.— Orel. Sur., sh. 84, 1876.
Darnconner. See Dernconnek.
Darngaber, a village in Hamilton parish, Lanarkshire,
near Quarter Road station, and 3 miles S of Hamilton
town.
Damhall, a seat of Lord Elibank in Eddlestone par-
ish, Peeblesshire, on a rising-ground, ^ mile WNW of
Eddlestone station. Originally a Border tower, from
1412 the -seat of the Murrays of Haltoun or Blackbarony,
it was greatly added to in the first half of the 17th
century, and now is a massive square chateau-liko
edifice, with beautiful grounds and a fine old limetree
avenue. JIontolieu-Fox 01ii)hant-Murray, tenth Baron
Elibank since 1643 (b. 1840 ; sue. 1871), holds 2660
acres in the shire, valued at £2297 per annum. See
Eliisank, Ballkncrieb'f, and Pitiieavles.
Darnick, a village in Melrose parish, Roxburghshire,
near the right bank of the Tweed, 7 furlongs W of
Melrose town, under which it has a post office. Dar-
nick Tower, the chief of three peels that once stood
clustered here, and the finest specimen extant of its
kind, was founded by the Heltons about 1425, but,
razecl and cast down by the English in 1545, appears to
have been repaired or rebuilt in 1509 — the date of the
crest (a bull's head) above the entrance door. A massive
square tower, battlemented and corbie-gabled, with side
stair-turret, it still is habitable, and still is held by a
descendant of its founder, Andrew lleiton, Esq., F.S.A.
DARNLEY
DAVIOT AND DUNLICHITY
(b. 1827 ; sue. 1870), whose eousin and predecessor con-
verted it into a kind of Border antiquarian museum.
Scott coveted it sorel}% to make an armoury of it, and
from it was jestingly dubbed, by his familiar friends,
tlie Duke of Darnick. Pop. of village (1841) 280, (1871),
435, (1881) 371. See James Wade's History of ildrosc
Abbey (Edinb. 1861).
Damley, an ancient barony in Eastwood parish, Ren-
frewshire, 1^ mile E of Barrhead. It belonged for ages
to a branch of the house of Stewart, and in 1460 gave
the title of Baron to Sir John Stewart, who in 1488
became Earl of Lennox, and whose fourth descendant
was Henry Lord Darnley (1546-67), the husband of
Queen Mary. It still gives title of Earl (ere. 1675) to
the Duke of Richmond and Lennox, but by the first of
his line was sold in the beginning of the 18 th century
to the Duke of Montrose ; and, passing again by sale in
1757 to Sir John JMaxwell of PoUok, belongs now to
Stirling-Maxwell of Pollok and Keir. It gives a prefix
name to several seats of manufacture and other locali-
ties within its limits.
Daxnow, a hamlet, with a public school, in Kirkcowan
parish, Wigtownshire, 4 miles NW of Kirkcowan village.
Damwick. See Daenick.
Darra, a hill in the S of Turriff parish, Aberdeen-
shire.
Darrach, a conspicuous hill in the W of Denny parish,
Stirlingshire, an eastwai'd abutment of the Kilsyth
Hills that culminates, at an altitude of 1170 feet above
sea-level, 3f miles W of Denny town.
Daniel. See Glendaeuel.
Darvel or Derval, a village chiefly in Loudon parish, and
partly in Galston parish, Ayrshire, on the river Irvine, If
mile E of Newmilns station, this being 7^ miles E by S
of Kilmarnock. Regularly built and fairly prosperous,
it mainly depends on haudloom weaving and the manu-
facture of muslins ; and has a jJost ofliice under Kilmar-
nock, a branch of the Union Bank, gas-works, a Free
church, a public school, a working men's institute, and
a subscription library. The working men's institute was
erected in 1872 at the instance of Miss Brown of Lan-
fine, and contains an amusement room, a reading-room,
and a committee room, capable of transmutation into a
hall accommodating 500 persons. The lands of Darvel
belonged anciently to the Knights Templars, and were
independent of tenure, not even holding of the Crown.
Pop. (1841) 1362, (1861) 1544, (1871) 1729, (1881) 1718.
—Urcl. Sur., sh. 22, 1865.
Dava, a station on the Highland railway, at the
mutual border of Cromdale and Edinkillie parishes,
Elginshire, 8h miles NNW of Grantown, under which
it h as a post and telegi'aph office. Here, too, is a public
school. See Cromdale.
Davarr or Devar, a small island in the mouth of Camp-
beltown Loch, Campbelto^vn parish, Argyllshire. Rising
300 feet above sea-level, it has an utmost length and
breadth of 5 and 4 J furlongs, and serves as a natural break-
water to Campbeltown harbour, protecting it from wind
and wave. To the S side of the loch's mouth it is
joined by a sand-bar | mile long, bare at low water ;
and its north-eastern point is crowned with a light-
house, that shows a bright white light every half minute,
visible at the distance of 17 nautical miles.
Daven, a triangular loch on the mutual border of
Logie-Coldstone and Glenmuick parishes, Aberdeenshire,
^\-ithin ^ mile of Loch Kinord, and IJ mile NW of
Dinnet station. Lying 480 feet above sea-level, it has
an utmost length and breadth of 6 and 4| furlongs,
contains pike and perch, and sends off Dinnet Burn
rimning 2^ miles SE to the Dee at Mill of Dinnet.
Close to it are to be seen the remains of a native town,
which Skene identifies with 'Devana,' a name preserved
in that of the loch itself. See Abehdeex, p. 17. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 76, 1874.
Davids, St, a seaport village in Dalgety parish, Fife,
on the NE horn of Inverkeithing Bay, at the terminus
of the Fordel mineral railway, li mile E by S of Inver-
keithing. It has a good harbour, and exports immense
quantities of coaL
Davids, St, a village in Maddirty parish, Perthshire,
on the estate of Craig of ]\Iadderty, If mile S by W of
Madderty station. Founded by the late Lady Baird
Preston of Fern Tower, it superseded a decayed old
burgh of barony, and is a beautiful place, with a hand-
some endowed schoolhouse.
Davidson's Mains or Muttonhole, a well-built village
in Cramond parish, Edinburglishire, H mile WNW of
Craigleith station, and 3^ miles AVNW of Edinburgh.
It has a post office, wath money order, savings' bank,
insurance, and telegraph departments, a station of the
Edinburghshire police, the Free church of Cramond,
and a public school. Pop. (1841) 470, (1861) 599,
(1871)736, (1881) 740.
Davington, a hamlet, with a public school and a Free
church, in Eskdalemuir parish, Dumfriesshire, near
the right bank of the AVhite Esk, 16i miles NNW of
Langholm.
Daviot, a hamlet and a parish in Garioch district,
central Aberdeenshire. The hamlet stands 5 miles
NNW of Inverurie, this being 16:| miles NW of Aber-
deen, under which Daviot has a post ofiice.
The parish is bounded N and NE by Fyvie, E by Old
Meldrum, SE by Bourtie, SW and W by Chapel of
Garioch, and NW by Rayne. Its utmost length, from
NNW to SSE, is 31 miles ; its breadth, from E to W,
varies between 2^ furlongs and 3| miles ; and its land
area is 4454 acres. Lochter Burn traces aU the Bourtie
boi'der ; and, where it quits this parish, the surface
sinks to 200 feet above sea-level, thence rising with
gentle undulations to 401 feet near Lumphart, 415 at
the church, 513 near Wicketslap, 529 near Loanhead,
and 434 at Knowhead. The prevailing rock is trap in
the central higher grounds, coarse gneiss in the S and
E. The soil, on the lower grounds, is generally peat
humus on bluish clay ; on the slopes, is commonly a
rich loam or a strong clay ; on the higher grounds, is
gravelly and thin. About 3700 acres are in tillage, 180
under wood, 100 moss, and 150 either waste or very
slightly reclaimed. Three stone circles and two pre-
Reformation chapels stand or have stood within the
parish. Glack, with its lofty tower, is a conspicuous
object ; and other mansions, also separately noticed,
are jMounie and Fingask — 4 proprietors holding each an
annual value of more, and 4 of less, than £100. Daviot
is in the presbytery of Garioch and synod of Aberdeen ;
the living is worth £153. The church, built in 1798,
contains 400 sittings ; and a public school, with accom-
modation for 150 children, had (1880) an average at-
tendance of 101, and a grant of £92, 17s. Valuation
(1881) £5.532, 7s. Pop. (1801) 644, (1831) 691, (1861)
614, (1871) 597, (1881) old.— Urcl. Sur., shs. 76, 86,
1874-76.
Daviot and Dunlichity, a united parish of NE Inver-
ness-shire mainh', but partly also of Nairnshire, 388
acres at its north-eastern extremity belonging to the
main body, and 12,600 towards the S forming a detached
portion, of that count}'. The parishes of Daviot and
Dunlichity were united in 1618, but still are so far dis-
tinct as each to have its church, that of Daviot standing
near the Nairn's left bank, 6f miles SE of Inverness,
under which there is a post oliice of Daviot, whilst that
of Dunlichity stands 1 mile EXE of the foot of Loch
Dundelchack and 6f miles SW by S of Daviot church.
The united parish, then, is bounded N and NE by Croy-
Dalcross, SE and S by Moy-Dalarossie, SW by Boleskine-
Abertarff, and NW by Dores, the Farraline section of
Boleskine, Inverness, and the Leys section of Croy. Its
utmost length is 22g miles from NE by N to SW by S ;
and its breadth varies between 4i furlongs and 7:^ nules.
The river Nairx, rising towards the S of the parish,
winds 22J miles north-north-westward and north-north-
eastward, chiefly through the interior, but for the last
3i miles along the Croy and Dalcross border ; during
this course it descends from 2480 to close on 300 feet
above sea-level. The southern Nairnshire section is
drained to Loch Ness by the Faiugaig, formed by two
head-streams near Dunmaglass Lodge, and running 2
miles north-north-westward till it passes into Dores,
845
DAVO
Besides twenty-six tiny lakelets — eighteen of tliera
dotted over Drummossie Muir — there are, in the in-
terior, Lochs CoiRE (5 X 23 furl. ; altitude, 865 feet) and
Clachax (4 X J mile ; 683 feet), and, on the Dores
border. Lochs Buxaciiton (i x ^ mile ; 701 feet), DuN-
DELCHACK (3i[ miles X 1 mile ; 702 feet), and Ruthven
(9 X 2^ furl. ; 700 feet). The surface sinks, as we have
said, to close on 300 feet along the Nairn, and thence
south-south-westward the chief elevations to tlie right
or E of its course are *Beinn na Buchanich (1312 feet),
*Beinn a' Bhenrlaich (1575), Meall na Fuar-ghlaic (1552),
*Carn nan Uisgean (2017), Reinn Bhreae (1797), *Carn
Glac an Eich (2066), Cam Mor (1222), *Carn na Sao-
bhaidh (2321), Cam Doire na h-Achlais (206G), and
*Carn Ghriogair (2637) ; to the left or AV of the Nairn
are Drummossie Muir (874), *Creag a' Chlachain (1000),
Creag Dhubh (1450), Stac na Cathaig (1463), Garbh-
bheinn Bheag (1711), Beinn Bhuidhe (2329), *Carn
Odhar (2618), Beinn Dubh-choire (2261), *Meall Donn
(1560), Beinn Bhuraich (2560), and *Carn na Saobhaidhe
(2658), where asterisks mark those summits that culmi-
nate on the bordersof the parish. Gneiss, granite, Old Red
sandstone conglomerate, and black and blue bituminous
shale are the chief rocks. Numerous low sand-hills,
seemingly formed by flux and reflux of some great body
of water, are on both sides of the Nairn, extending from
Daviot Bridge, 2 miles higher up. ]\Iarl, to a depth of
from 5 to 6 feet, formed an extensive bed in Tordarroch
Moss, at a depth of from 5 to 7 feet below the surface ;
and was largely and effectively used for improving the
lighter arable lands. The soil, in some places, is light
and sandy ; in others, wet and spongy, on a clay bottom ;
in others, a black mossy humus ; and in many, a com-
pound of two or more of these. Daviot Castle, near
Daviot House, was built in the beginning of the 15th
century by David, Earl of Crawford ; a square three-
story structure, surmounted by round turrets at the
angles, and girt by a wall enclosing an extensive area,
and b}' a fosse with a drawbridge, it seems to have been
a place of great strength, but is now represented by only
fragmentary ruins. Dun-Daviot Hill, in the vicinity of
the church, appears to have been used, in times of danger,
as a signal station. Remains of ancient Caledonian
stone circles are at Daviot, Gask, Farr, and Tordarroch ;
and several ancient tumuli on the hills have been found
to contain funereal relics. Daviot House and Farr
House both stand on the left bank of the Nairn. The
former, 7 furlongs NNE of Daviot church, is a com-
modious modern mansion ; the latter, 6| miles SSW, is
partly old, paiily modern. Other estates are Brin,
FLifHiTY, and Dunmaglass ; and in all 8 proprietors
hold an annual value of more, 3 of less, than £100.
This parish is in the presbytery of Inverness and synod
of Moray ; the living is worth £356. Daviot church
(500 sittings) was rebuilt in 1826, Dunlichity (300) in
1758 ; and service is performed in them alternately, A
Free church stands 4if miles SSW of Daviot church ; and
5^ miles further SSW is St Paul's Episcopal church of
Strathnairn, which, originally erected in 1817, was
rebuilt in 1869 at a cost of £900, and contains 200
sittings. The five schools of Daviot, Dunmaglass, Farr,
Nairnside,^ and Strathnairn, the three first public and
the last Episcopalian, with respective accommodation
for 83, 50, 90, 90, and 150 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 34, 19, 37, 58, and 48, and grants
of £41, 12s., £32, 18s. 6d., £41, 7s., £48, 15s., and
£49, 10s. Valuation of Inverness-shire portion (1880)
£10,358, 8s. Id. ; of Nairnshire portion (1882) £1465, 10s.
Pop. (1801)1818, (1831) 1738, (1861) 1741, (1871) 1598,
(1881) 1252.— On^. Sur., .shs. 84, 73, 74, 83, 1876-81.
Davo, a romantic wooded ravine in Garvock parish,
Kincardineshire. It contains a quarry of excellent
buiMing red sandstone.
Davoch. See HAi.F-DAVAcn,
Dawan. Si(! Daven.
Dawick House, a modem castellated mansion, stand-
ing amid finely-wooded ground.s, in the NE corner of
Dmmmclzior parish, Peeblesshire, 2^ furlongs S of the
Tweed's right bank, and it mile SSW of Stobo station
346
DECHMONT HOUSE
this being 6^ miles WSW of Peebles. Held by the
Veitches from the 13th to the close of the 17th century,
the estate then passed to the lawyer, James Naesmyth
(d. 1706), who was known as the ' Deil 0' Da'wlck.' His
grandson and namesake, the second baronet (sue. 1720 ;
d. 1779), was the eminent botanist, Linnoeus' pupil, who
planted in 1735 the Dawick avenue of silver firs, and to
whom Scotland owes the introduction of the lai'cli in
1725. His great-grandson, the present Sir James Nae-
smyth of Posso, fifth Bart, since 1706 (b. 1827 ; sue.
1876), owns 15,485 acres in the shire, valued at £3557
per annum. On a knoll, 1-| furlong S by W of the
house, still stands the old church of Dawick parish
(suppressed 1742), which serves now as the family
mausoleum. — Orel. Sur., sh. 24, 1864.
Dawsholm. See DALSHOLir.
Dead Burn, a burn in Newlands parish, Peeblesshire,
running 3 miles south-south-westward to Lyne Water,
at a point 2i miles SSE of Linton.
Dead Loch. See Yarrow.
Deadman's Gill, a burn in the E of Mouswald parish,
Dumfriesshire, whose bank is traditionally alleged to
have been a place of execution.
Deadmen's Holm, a piece of alluvial flat in Tarbolton
parish, A}Tshire, opposite the mouth of Bloody Burn.
It and the burn are alleged to have got their name from
being the scene of some ancient massacre or tragedy.
Deadriggs. See Crosshall, Berwickshire.
Dead Water, See Castleton, Roxburghshire.
Dean, the ancient seat of the Boyds, Earls of Kilmar-
nock from 1661 to 1746, in Kilmarnock parish, Ayr-
shire, on a gentle rising-ground above the right bank
of Kilmarnock Water, 1 mile NNE of Kilmarnock town.
Dating from some very early period unknown to record,
it was destroyed by accidental fi.re in 1735, and is now
a massive picturesque ruin.
Deanbumhaugh, a hamlet in Roberton parish, partly
in Roxburghshire, partly in Selkirkshire, on Borthwick
Water, 7| miles WSW of Hawick, under which it has a
post office.
Deanston, a manufacturing village in Kilmadock
parish, Perthshire, on the swift Teith's right bank, 1
mile W of Doune. It presents an appearance greatly
superior to that of most seats of manufacture, consisting
chiefly of extensive cotton-mills founded in 1785, and
of dwelling-houses for the workpeople, but including
Deanston House ; and has a post office under Stirling,
a large school, a circulating library, and a savings' bank.
James Smith (1789-1850), as manager of its mills from
1807, made great displays of genius, and stands on the
roll of fame, among the Wattses and the Arkwrights
as a mechanician, among the Youngs and the Sinclairs
as the inventor of tliorough drainage, and among the
Howards and the Clarksons as a philanthropist. Pop.
(1841) 982, (1861) 727, (1871) 627, (ISSl) 700.
Deanston, Ayrshire. See Stewarton.
Dean Water, a small, deep, sluggish river of W
Forfarshire, issuing from Forfar Loch (171 feet), and
running 13J miles west-south-westward, through or
along the borders of Kinnettles, Kirriemuir, Glamis,
Airlie, Eassie, and Meigle in Perthshire, till it falls into
the Isla 1 mile N of Meigle village, after a total descent
of barely 50 feet. It abounds in pike, perch, and prime
tront— Orel. Sur., shs. 57, 56, 1868-70.
Deasthack, a burn in Kiltarlity parish, Inverness-
shire, running to the Beauly at Fasnacoil.
Dechmont, a hill-summit on the SW border of Cam-
buslang parish, Lanarkshire, 5h miles SSE of Glasgow.
The highest point of the hill-range that terminates
north-westward in Carmunnock, it has an altitude of
602 feet above sea-level, and commands a magnificent
view, whose beauties form the theme of a descriptive
poem by John Struthers. The Beltane fires long
blazed from its summit ; and on its slopes were formerly
many Caledonian cairns and suchlike structures, now
almost totally obliterated.
Dechmont House, a mansion in Livingstone parish,
Linlitiigowshire, 3^ miles WSW of Uphal'l station. Its
owner, Airs Jleldruni, holds 1200 acres in the shire
DEE
DEE
valued at £18G0 per annum. A little to the NE are
Declimont village and Dechmont Hill (686 feet), which
commands a very extensive prospect.
Dee, a river chiefly of S Aberdeenshire, but partly also
of Kincardineshire. It rises from tlie very bosom of
the Cairngorm Mountains, in the SW corner of Aber-
deenshire, close to the boundary with Banff, Inverness,
and Perth shires ; and runs first south-south-eastward,
but generally east-by-northward along the Braemar and
Deeside districts of Aberdeenshire, across a wing of
Kincardineshire, and along the boundary between Aber-
deenshire and Kincardineshire, to the sea at Aberdeen.
Its length, if one follows its windings, is 87^ miles, viz. ,
2J from the source of Garchary Burn to its confluence
\vith Larig Burn, 11^ thence to the Linn of Dee, 6|
thence to the Clunie's influx near Castleton, 9 thence to
Balmoral, 9J thence to Ballater Bridge, 13| thence to
Aboyne Bridge, 15| thence to Banchory Bridge, 17|
thence to the old Bridge of Dee, and 1§ thence to its
mouth in the North Sea. Its drainage area is esti-
mated at 700 square miles ; and from 4060 feet above
sea-level at the Garchary's source it descends to 1976 at
the Larig's confluence, 1640 at the Geusachan's influx,
1214 at the Linn of Dee, 1066 near Castleton, 872 near
Balmoral, 663 at Ballater, 397 at Aboyne, 296 at the
Bridge of Potarch, 102 at Drumoak ferry, and 72 at
Peterculter. Its velocity, above Castleton, is fitful and
various, ranging from cascade to current, from torrent
to pool ; but, below Castleton, averages 3^ miles per
hour, with a mean depth of 4 feet, and is so regular as
nowhere to furnish water-power to a mill. Its tribu-
taries partake of its own character, being mountain-
torrents in the upper part of the basin, and, in the
lower, gently gliding streams ; or, in some instances,
are impetuous first, next slow. Its waters are remark-
able for both perennial flow and limpid purity ; con-
tinue, a long way down its course, to be almost wholly
unafi'ected by any such circumstances as pollute most
other rivers ; and, even in its lower reaches where the
drainage of farms and villages runs into them, are com-
paratively well protected from defilement by skilful
methods of land drainage.
The Dee has been almost universally identified with
the Deva of Ptolemy, but the Latin editions prior to
1525 all read Leva, and Skene observes that ' the distance
both from the Firth of Tay and from Kinnairds Head
corresponds more closely with the mouth of the North
Esk than with that of the river Dee.' By Celtic
scholars Dee itself has been variously interpreted by
' dark ' or ' smooth ' or ' double water,' the last signifi-
cation referring to the river's two-fold soi;rce, in the
Larig and Garchary Burns. The Garchary, issuing from
Well Dee (4060 feet) between Cairntoul and Braeriach,
hurries 2f miles east-south-eastward to a confluence
with the Larig, which, itself rising from the Wells of
Dee (2700 feet) between Braeriach and Ben Macdhui,
runs IJ mile southward, and midway is joined by a
half subterraneous torrent rushing 1 mile westward from
its source (4200 feet) upon Ben Macdhui. And which,
then, is the veritable head-stream ? Dr Hill Burton
elects in favour of the Larig, as less desperately flighty,
more voluminous, and more in the line of the glen,
than the Garchary ; but, on the whole, the latter carries
the day, by its longer descent and very much higher
birth. The scenery of the meeting of the two streams is
terrible, wilder even than that of Glen Sannox, Glencoe,
or Coruisk ; and serves to explain how the influence of
alpine landscape has darkened the imagination of the
Highlanders, and given aspects of gloom and supersti-
tion to their traditions. Hogg, speaking of Ben Macdhui,
exaggerates nothing, but fails to give due force and
fulness to his picture, when he says —
' Beyond the grizzly cliffs that guard
The infant rills of Highland Dee,
Where hunter's horn was never heard,
Nor bugle of the forest-bee,
'Mid wastes that dern and dreary lie,
One mountain rears its mighty form.
Disturbs the moon in fiassing by,
And smiles above the thuuderstorm.'
A barrren and desolate region, of which, as a boy,
Hill Burton was told by Donald that it was ' a fery
fulgar place, not fit for a young shentleraan to go to at
all ; ' and of which, some forty years later. Hill Burton
wrote that, ' if we compare this defile to another of the
grandest mountain - passes in Scotland — to Glencoe —
we find a marked dill'ercnce between them. The scene
of the great tragedy, grand and impressive as it is, has
no such narrow walled defiles. The mountains are high,
but they are of the sugar-loaf shape — abrupt but never
one mass of precipice from top to bottom. Cairntoul
resembles those hills, though it is considerably more
precipitous ; but Braeriach is as much unlike them as a
tower is distinct from a dome.' Through this narrow
glen, then, that begins to widen below the Geusachan's
influx, the united waters of Garchary and Larig flow, as
the Dee, over a broken rocky bed in alternate sweeps,
rapids, and cascades, till, at a place 6| miles above
Castleton of Braemar, it forms a remarkable series of
small falls — the Linn of Dee. The Linn is a natural
sluice of rock, with rugged sides, and jagged, shelving
bottom, 300 yards long, and at one point barely 4 feet
wide — an easy jump. Through it the river shoots in
small cascades ; and it is spanned by a handsome white
granite bridge, opened in 1857 by Queen Victoria. The
river, about IJ mile below the Linn, begins to touch
some marks of cultivation ; but it soon afterwards
enters Mar Forest, through which it flows to some
distance beyond Castleton, receiving in it the Lui and
the Quoich from the N, and the Ey and the Clunie
from the S. It next traverses Invercauld Forest ; pro-
ceeds thence past Balmoral and Abergeldie ; receives
two small tributaries, from respectively the N and the
S, in the vicinity of Balmoral ; passes on to Ballater ;
and receives, in the neighbourhood of that village, the
Gairn or Gairden from the N, and the Muick from the
S. Its scenery between the Linn and Ballater is noticed
in our articles on Braemar and Balmoral, and its
scenery around Ballater and for some miles further on
is described as follows by William Howitt : ' The hills
are lofty, grey, and freckled ; they are, in fact, bare
and tempest-tinted granite, having an air of majestic
desolation. Some rise peaked and splintered, and their
sides covered with cUhris, yet, as it were, bristled with
black and sharp-looking pine forests. Some of the hills
run along the side of the Dee, covered with these woods,
exactly as the steep Black Forest hills in the neigh-
bourhood of Wildbad.' Meadow, cornfield, and garden,
however, begin to show themselves as one approaches
Ballater, ever more and more as the river rolls on towards
the sea.
The Dee, from a point about 3^ miles E of Ballater,
flows through a gradually widening valley, still narrow,
but with less and less of its former Highland character ;
and it forces its way through a comminuted compound
of granite, gneiss, porphyry, greenstone, and hornblende
debris, and receives on both banks numerous small tri-
butaries. It enters Kincardineshire at a point 3J miles
SE of Kincardine O'Neil, and, traversing that county
over a run of 9f miles, receives in it, on the right bank,
the tribute of the Feugh. Retouching Aberdeenshire at
the SW corner of Drumoak parish, it thence runs 14^
miles along the boundary between the two counties to
the sea at Aberdeen ; and, from the point of its entering
Kincardineshire onward to its mouth, oilers alternations
of tame hill scenery and beautiful lowland landscape.
From source to mouth it traverses or bounds the parishes
of Crathie, Glenmuick, Aboyne, Birse, Kincardine
O'Neil, Strachan, Banchory-Tcrnan, Durris, Drumoak,
Peterculter, Maryculter, Banchory-Devenick, Nigg, and
Old Machar ; and in our articles on these fourteen
parishes full details are given as to the villages, man-
sions, and other features of its course.
The Dee was once the most finely wooded and the
best fishing river in Scotland ; and, though much
damaged by entails, manufactories, and stake-nets, it
still, for wood and fish, has scarce a rival among British
rivers. Salmon contrive to force their way, up all its
currents and obstructions, to points above the Liun,
347
DEE
and, though not now caught in any such quantity as in
bygone days, are still taken in great numbers. About
20,'000 salmon and 40,000 grilse are caught in an average
season ; but these numbers include those taken by stake-
nets and on the beach adjacent to the river's mouth.
The best catch of the 1881 season was got about the
middle of July, when some 600 fish were landed in a
single day from the Pot and Fords. The finest reach of
the° river for rod-fishing extends from Banchory to
Ballater. Clean-run salmon have often been taken by
the rod so early as the 1st of February, in the waters
above Ballater, at a distance of 50 mUes from the sea ;
but they rarely ascend the Linn till after the middle of
May. As a rule they run small, 7 to 10 lbs. on an
average. The connections of the river with the water-
supply and commerce of Aberdeen, as also the diversion
of its channel, are noticed in our article on that city. —
Ord. Sur., shs. U, 65, 66, 76, 67, 77, 1870-74. See
chaps, xxiii. -xxv. of Sir Thomas Dick Lauder's Moray
Floods (Elgin, 1830 ; 3d ed. 1873) ; James Brown's Kew
Deeside Guide (Ab., 1843) ; and Dr John Hill Burton's
Cairngorm Mountains (Edinb. 1864).
Dee, a river of "W Kirkcudbrightshire, issuing from
Loch Dee, a lonclv lake that lies among the heathery
lieights of Minnigatf— Laraachan Hill (2349 feet),
Curleywee (2212), Craiglee (1741), and Cairngarroch
(1800). Itself 750 feet above sea-level, Loch Dee is 7
furlongs long and from 1 J to 4 furlongs ^vide ; its
waters are still well stocked with trout, which have,
however, been sadly thinned by pike, and which average
1 lb. in weight, though seven or eight years since a
monster of 12 lbs. was taken here. Leaving this
mountain lake, the Dee, or Black Water of Dee, Avinds
18^ miles east-south-eastward till, after traversing
Stkoan Loch, it is joined, just opposite to Parton
station, by the "Water of Ken, a stream of much larger
volume than its own. For the next 5 miles, on to
Glenlochar Lodge, their miited waters assume the aspect
of a long narrow lake — called, indeed, sometime a second
Loch Dee — that widens here to half a mUe, and there
contracts to barely a hundred yards. From Glenlochar,
on past the islets of Threave Castle and Lodge, our
river sweeps, through a rocky channel, llf miles south-
ward and south-south-westward to Kirkcudbright town,
thence 3 miles southward through a broadening estuary
to its mouth in Kirkcudbright Bay. It thus has a total
course of 38 J rniles, during which it traverses or bounds
the parishes of Minnigaff, Kells, Girthon, Balmaghio,
Parton, Crossmichael, Kelton, Tongueland, Kirkcud-
bright, Twynholm, and Borgue, and during which it
receives Cooran Lane, the Ken, and Tarf Water, with a
number of lesser tributaries. It is navigable to Tongue-
land, or about 7 miles from the Solway ; and it
sometimes rises in freshets to 8 feet above its ordinary
level Its waters, particularly before their confluence
with the Ken, are so mossy and dark-hued as to render
its name of Dee or ' dark stream,' and specially its
duplicate name of Black Dee, entirely appropriate.
Its salmon, too, are of a darker colour and much fatter
than those of most rivers in the S of Scotland, and are
held in high estimation ; its waters contain also sea-trout,
river-trout, pike, perch, and large quantities of pearl-
mussels.— Ort^. ,Swr., shs. 8, 9, 5, 1863-54.
Dee, Bridge of, a south-western suburb of Aberdeen,
on the river Dee, 2 miles from the centre of the city.
It has a iiost office under Aberdeen.
Dee, Bridge of, a village on the SE border of Bal-
maghie parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, on the right bank
of tiie Dee, with a station on the Kirkcudbriglit raihva}',
3 miles SW of Castle-Douglas. It has a Christian
Knowledge Society's school.
Deechoid or Deadh Choimhead, a hill (1255 feet) in
ihickaiiu ])arish, Argyllshire, 5i miles E by S of Oban.
Deer, a place in jlorton ]iarish, Dumfriesshire, near
Morton Castle, and 2^ miles N by W of Tliornhill. It
has remains of an entrenched strong fortification, sup-
posed to Jiave been a Roman castellum.
Deer, an ancient parish and a presbytery, partly in
Baufl'shire, but chiefly in Aberdeenshire. The ancient
348
DEER, NEW
parish was divided, about the year 1694, into the present
parishes of New Deer and Old Deer. The presbytery,
meeting at Maud, is in the synod of Aberdeen, and
comprises the old parishes of Aberdour, Crimoud, Kew
Deer, Old Deer, St Fergus, Fraserburgh, Longside, Lon-
may, Peterhead, Pitsligo, Eathen, Strichen, and Tyiie ;
the quoad sacra parishes of Ardallie, Blackhill, Boddam,
Fraserburgh West Church, Inverallochy, Kininmonth,
New Pitsligo, Peterhead East Church, and Savoch ;
and the chapelries of New Maud, Techmuiry, and Peter-
head Robertson Memorial IMission Church. Pop. (1871)
49,199, (1881) 54,420, of whom 14,052 were communi-
cants of the Church of Scotland in 1878. — The Free
Church also has a presbytery of Deer, with 2 churches
at Peterhead, and 11 at respectively Aberdour, Clola,
Fraserburgh, Longside, New Deer, New Pitsligo, Old
Deer, Pitsligo, Rathen, Strichen, and St Fergus, which
together had 2832 communicants in 1881.
Deer or South Ugie Water. See Ugie.
Deer- Dike, a substantial earthen fence along the mutual
boundary of Garvock and Laurencekirk parishes, Kin-
cardineshire. Probably part of an enclosure round a
deer-forest, comprising most or all of Garvock parish, it
continued tUl last century to be tolerably entire, and
still has left distinct traces.
Deer-Law, a hill (2065 feet) on the mutual border of
Yarrow parish, Selkirkshire, and Lyne parish, Peebles-
shire, 2 miles NW of St Mary's Loch.
Deemess, a parish of Orkney, comprising a peninsula
in the extreme E of Pomona and the islands of Copen-
shay, Cornholm, and Horse. Its kirkto^^Ti stands on
the E coast of the peninsula, 8^ miles E by S of Kirk-
wall, under which it has a post ofiice. Extending from
Moul Head south-westward to the isthmus that connects
it with St Andi'ews parish, and measuring 5 miles in
length by 3 in extreme breadth, the said peninsula is
bounded W and NAV by Deer Sound, E by the North
Sea, and SE by Newark Bay ; the islands lie from 1|
mile to 3 miles to the E. From the shores, which are
haunted by myriads of sea-birds, the surface of the
peninsula rises to a somewhat tabular summit. The
soil consists mostly of loam, resting on red clay, and is
highly susceptible of improvements, such as draining
and a liberal application of shell sand, of which there is
an inexhaustible supply. From 50 to 60 boats are em-
ployed in the herring fishery ; kelp is manufactured ;
and very strong ropes, fitted for various economic pur-
2)Ose8 of the farmer, are made from the shoots of Empe-
trum nigrum, from the roots of Arundo arcnaria, and
from the herbage of Holcus lanatus. Several tumuli
are on the higher grounds ; and remains of a large
Pict's house, called Dingy's Howe or Duncan's Height,
stand near the end of the isthmus. The parish is united
quoad civilia to St Andrews, from which, however, it
was separated quoad sacrain 1845; Deerness itself being
a living in the presbytery of Kirkwall and synod of
Orkney, with stii>end of £120, a manse, and 3 acres of
glebe. The church was originally a parliamentary
one. There is also a Free church ; and three public
schools — Deerness, St Andrews, and Tankerness — with
respective accommodation for 155, 55, and 80 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 92, 50, and 44,
and grants of £80, 4s., £41, and £33, 14s. Valuation
of civil parish (1881) £1976, 16s. 6d. Pop. of same
(1801) 660, (1831) 661, (1861) 831, (1871) 863, (1881)
867.
Deer, New, a village and a parish in Buchan district,
NE Aberdeensliire. The village stands towards the
middle of tlie parish, 2| miles WSW of ilaud Junction,
this being 13 miles W by N of Peterhead, 16 SSW of
Fraserburgh, antl 31^ N by E of Aberdeen, under which
New Deer has a jwst office, with money order and
savings' bank departments. Anciently called Auch-
rcddie, it includes at its south-eastern cutskirt a suburb
retaining that name ; and it straggles for over a 7nile
along the ascending ridge of a steepish liill. Within
recent years it has undergone great improvement, good
new dwelling-houses having taken the place of low old
huts ; and it has branches of the North of Scotland and
DEER, NEW
Aberdeen Town and County banks, 11 insurance agencies,
2 local savings' banks, 2 hotels, a market-place, a
public hall (1864), a children's library, agricultural
and horticultural societies, and fairs on the third
Wednesday of January, the "Wednesday after 12 April,
the Thursday before "26 May, the Wednesday after
19 June, the second Tuesday of August, the Wed-
nesday after 19 October, and the Thursday after 22
November. A public school, ^^'ith accommodation for
240 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 163,
and a grant of £139, 17s. Pop. (1861) 475, (1871) 643,
(1881) 753.
The parish, containing also part of New JIaud, is
bounded N bv Tj-rie, NE by Strichen, E by Old Deer,
SE and S by Ellon, SW by Tarves and Methlick, W by
Fj-vie and ilonquhitter, and NW by King-Edward.
In outline rudely resembling a triangle with south-
.south-eastward apex, it has an utmost length from
NNW to SSE of 12^ miles, an utmost breadth from E
to W of 5f miles, and an area of 26,765 acres. The
drainage is mainly carried eastward by head-streams of
South Ugie Water ; but the Burns of Elrick or Nether-
muir and AUathan or Asleed, flowing southward to the
Ythan, trace much of the eastern and western borders.
The surface, sinking to 197 feet above sea-level near
Tillysnaught at the south-eastern angle of the parish,
and to 196 near New Maud on the eastern boundary,
thence rises gently north-north-westward and north-
westward to 440 feet near Muckle Clofrickford, 540 near
Barrack, 503 at the Hill of Culsh, 529 near Corsehill,
619 at the Hill of Corsegight, 487 at Whin Hill, and
630 at Bonnykelly ; of which the Hill of Culsh, i mile
beyond the Free church, so far overlooks the surround-
ing country as on a clear day to command a view to
Peterhead, Bennochie, the Bin of CuUen, and Ben
Rinnes. The district toward the NE and the SE, to
the extent of 7 or 8 miles, looks almost like one con-
tinuous cornfield, dotted with green crops, and ter-
minated by a gentle rising-gi'ound in the form of an
amphitheatre. Granite is the prevailing rock ; but
limestone, of coarse quality, has been worked on the
lands of Barrack. Moss covers an inconsiderable area,
which yearly grows less and less, owing to plant-
ing, reclamation, or consumption as fuel. The soil,
with few exceptions, is light and shallow, and over
a great proportion of the land rests on an iron-bound
pan from 6 inches to 2 feet thick. Remains in the
mosses indicate the existence of a primeval forest ; but
now, except at Brucklay, Artamford, and Nethermuir,
the parish is rather poorly off for trees. Fedderat
Castle, 2§ miles NNE of the village, was anciently a
strong six-storied structure, surrounded partly by a
morass, partly by a fosse, and approachable only by a
causeway and a drawbridge ; but is now an utter ruin.
Ancient Caledonian standing stones, a rocking-stone,
and stone circles, in various places, have nearly all been
destro3'ed ; some tumuli have yielded urns and sarco-
phagi. At Brucehill, 2 miles W of the village, Edward
Bruce is said to have encamped, before he defeated the
Comyns at Aikey Brae (1308). Brucklay Castle
and Nethermuir House are the chief mansions ; and
10 proprietors hold each an annual value of more, 93 of
less, than £100. In the presbytery of Deer and synod
of Aberdeen, New Deer gives olf portions to the quoad
sacra parishes of Savoch, Newbyth, and New Pitsligo ;
the living is worth £380. The parish church, built at
the village in 1838, in place of an earlier one of 1622,
is a Third Pointed edifice, with 1500 sittings, and a
tower, completed in 1865. A neat Free church stands
3 furlongs NNW of the parish church, and Artamford
U. P. church | mile NE ; the latter, rebuilt in 1876 at a
cost of £1400, is Gothic in style, and contains 420
sittings. There are also another U. P. church at ^Vhite-
hill (3^ miles N), a Congregational chapel, and a few
Plymouth Brethren. Eight schools — Brucklay, Cairn-
banno. New Deer, Knaven, Oldwhat, Whitehill, Bonny-
kelly, and Honeynook — with total accommodation for
1029 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 569,
and grants amounting to £525, 6s. 6d. Valuation (1843)
DEEB, OLD
£10,905, (1881) £23,211, 4s. 7d. Pop. of parish (1»01)
2984, (1831) 3525, (1861) 4385, (1871) 4853; of regis-
tration district (1871) 4147, (1881) 4097.— Ore?. Sur.,
sh. 87, 1876.
Deer, Old, a village and a parish of Buchan, NE
Aberdeenshire. The village stands, 134 feet above sea-
level, on the right bank of South Ugie Water, \\ mile
SW by W of Alintlaw station, this being %\ miles
W by N of Peterhead, 3^ E by N of Maud Junction,
and 35 N by E of Aberdeen. An ancient place, it
has been mostly rebuilt within the past half centurj',
and has a post office under Mintlaw, a branch of the
North of Scotland Banking Co., a savings' bank (1825),
an inn, a fair (St Drostan's) on the Wednesday after
19 Dec, and two public schools, which, with respective
accommodation for 167 scholars and 81 girls, had (1880)
an average attendance of 119 and 58, and grants of
£92, 15s. and £52, 14s.
The parish also contains the villages of Stuartfield,
Clola, and Fetterangus, \\ mile S by W, 3| miles SSE,
and 2J miles NNE, of Old Deer village. Its north-
eastern portion forming a detached section of Banfl'-
shire, it is bounded N W and N by Strichen, NE by Lon-
may, E by Longside, SE by Cruden, S by Cruden and
Ellon, and W by New Deer. Its utmost length, from
N to S, is 9 J miles ; its breadth, from E to W, varies
between 4 and 6| miles ; and its area is 27, 439 J acres,
of which 2812 belong to the Banffshire portion. South
Ugie Water has here an east-south-easterly course of 6^
miles ; North Ugie Water winds 7 miles east-south-
eastward along all the northern and north-eastern
border ; and before Pitfour House is an artificial lake of
45 acres (3§ x 1 furl.); whilst springs, either pure or
chalybeate, are numerous, and some of them bear such
names as Grinie's, Lady, Abbey, Chapel, and Annie's
Well. The sm-face, everywhere undulating, presents an
assemblage of low rounded hills, most of them culti-
vated to the very top ; at Baluss Bridge, on the eastern
border, it sinks to 100 feet above sea-level, and rises
thence north-westward to 397 feet at Drinnies AVood,
410 at Knapperty Hill, 432 at Braeside, and 466 at
White Cow Wood — westward and south-westward to
292 at Wuddyhill, 460 at Wind Hill, 551 at the HUl of
Dens, 465 near Bulwark, 423 near Little Elrick, 407
near Littlemill, 420 at Slampton Hill, and 392 at
Windy Hill — south-south-westward and south-south-
eastward to 474 at Skelmuir Hill, 478 near Wester
Craighead, and 469 at Smallburn Hill. The prevailing
rocks are granite, syenite, and limestone, which have
been largely worked at Aikey Brae and other places ;
and blocks occur of gneiss and pure white quartz. The
soil is very diversified, ranging from argillaceous to
loamy, sandy, or gravelly. The woods and plantations
of Aden, Pitfour, and Kinmundy cover a large extent,
and those of the two first comprise some very fine hard-
wood trees. Woollen mills are at MUlbreck and Aden, a
brewery and a distillery at Biffie. About 580 Columba
and Drostan,hisnephew, came from lona unto Aberdour,
and thence to the other town, which pleased Columba,
because it was full of God's grace ; and he asked of the
Mormaer Bede to give it him, and he would not. But,
his son falling sick, the Mormaer went to the clerics to
ask a prayer of them, and gave them in offering from
Cloch in tiprat to Clock pette mic Garnait. They
made the prayer and health returned. Then Columba
gave Drostan that cathair, and blessed it, and left as his
word, ' Whosoever come against it, let him not be many-
yeared victorious.' Drostan weeping as the}' parted,
said Columba, 'Let Deer* be its name henceforward.'
Dowai to the reign of David I. (1124-53) this Columban
monastery retained unimpaired its clerical element and
Celtic character, according to the priceless testimony of
certain Gaelic notices written during that reign on the
blank pages of the Book of Deer, a Latin MS. of the 9tli
century containing St John's and parts of the other three
gospels, the Apostles' Creed, and a fragment of an office
for the vi-sitation of the sick, which MS. , discovered by
* I.e., Gael, der, now deiir, 'a tear.' Dair, 'an oak,' has been
suggested as a more likely etymon.
349
DEEE, SAVOCH OF
Mr H. Bradshaw in 1S60 in the library of Cambridge
Uuiversitv, was ably edited for the Spalding Club by the
late Dr John Stuart in 1S69 (Skene's Celtic Scotland,
vols, ii., iii., 1877-SO). St Mary's Abbey of Deer, on the
left bank of South Ugie Water, % mile WNW of the
village, was founded, either in 1218 or 1219, by William
Comyu, Earl of Buchan, for monks of the Cistercian
order, being colonised by three brethren from KjTiloss ;
the last of its abbots, Robert Keith, second son of the
fourth Earl Marischal, obtained the erection of its lands
into the temporal lordship of Altrie (15S7). Early
English in style, red sandstone in material, the ruins
were enclosed and cleared of rubbish in 1809, when it
appeared that the cruciform church must have consisted
of chancel, transept, and five-bayed nave with N aisle,
the whole measuring 150 by from 27 to 38^ feet, or 90
across the transept. Here has been localised the ballad
of ' Sir James the Rose,' whose grave is also shown at
Haddo in Crimond ; on Aikey 13rae the Comyns were
finally routed by Edward Bruce ; and by Aikey-side one
of their line, an Earl of Buchan, is said, by his death,
whilst hunting, to have verified Thomas the Rhymer's
prediction. Vestiges remain of six stone circles ; several
cairns have j-ielded stone cists and m-ns ; flint imple-
ments have been found in great abundance ; and other
antiquities are the ruinous manor-house of Clachriach
and remains of the small old parish church of Fetter
angus. The Stone of Deer, a syenite block standing 6
Itet out of the ground at the NW corner of the old
Abbey church, is figured in the Sculptured Stones of
Scotland (1867), but was demolished about 1854. The
principal mansions are Pitfouk, Kinmuxdt, and Aden,
the last a good modern buUding, 3 furlongs ENE of the
village, whose o^vner, Jas. Geo. Ferguson Russell, Esq.
(b. 1836 ; sue. 1875), holds 8402 acres in the shire,
valued at £6989 per annum. The rest of the parish is
divided among 16 proprietors, 10 holding each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 1 of between £100 and
£500, 1 of from £50 to £100, and 4 of from £20 to £50.
In the presbytery of Deer and synod of Aberdeen, Old
Deer gives olf portions to the q. s. parishes of Ardallie,
Kintnmonth, and Savoch of Deer ; the living is worth
£388. The parish church, with over 1000 sittings, stands
at the village, and, built in 1788, was greatly improved
(1880-81) at a cost of £2811, the walls being raised,
an entrance porch added, a memorial window inserted,
and a clock-tower and spire, 103 feet high, erected of
Aikey Brae granite, with a library room on its basement
floor. At the village also is St Drostan's Episcopal
church (1851 ; 300 sittings). Early English in style, and
lich in painted glass ; other places of worship are
noticed under Stuartfield, Maud, and Clola. SLx
schools, all public but the last, which is endowed, are
at Bank, Clochcan, Bulwark, Shannas, Stuartfield
(girls'), and Fetterangus (do.) ; and these, with respec-
tive accommodation for 100, 110, 62, 110, 140, and 76
children, had (1880) an average attendance of 61, 107, 43,
94, 130, and 69, and grants of £.jO, 8s. 6d., £72, Is.,
£33, 19s., £73, 9s., £100, 6s., and £61. 4s. 6d. Valua-
tion (1843) £13,165, (1882) £30.372, 12^. lOd. Pop. of
civil parish (1801) 3552, (1821) 3841, (1841) 4453, (1861)
5174, (1871) 5085, (1881) 4935 ; of registration district
(ISSl) 4274.— O/tZ. Sur., sh. 87, 1876.
Deer, Savoch of. See Savoch.
Deershaw, a village in the N of Banffshire, distant
6 miles trom Banlf.
Deer Sound, a spacious natural harbour on the E
side of the Mainland of Orkney, entering from Stronsay
Firth, and separating the parish of Deerness from that
of St Andrews. Lying nearly due SW and NE, and
measuring 4 miles in length, by from 1 mile to 2^
miles in breadth, it has beautifully winding shores, a
clean sandy bottom mi.ved with clay, and a depth of 6
or 7 fathoms. It is well sheltered from all winds, and
affords in many parts good anchorage. Any number of
vessels might liere find refuge ; and it was formerly
frequented by whaling ships on their way to the Arctic
seas, but is now very little used.
Deeside, the valley of the Aberdeenshire Dee, or,
.'<jO
DELTING
more specially, the part of that valley downward from
Braemar to the sea.
Deil's Beef-Tub. See Axnaxdale's Beef-Stand.
Deil's Cauldron. See Devil's Cauldron.
Deil's Causeway. See Stonehouse.
Deil's or Plots' Dyke, a long line of ancient fortifica-
tion in Galloway and Dumfriesshire, commencing at Loch
Ryan near lunermessan, the site of the ancient Rerigo-
nium, a town of the Novantae, and extending, by way
of MiuuigaQ', Glencairn, Penpont, and Lochmaben, to
the upper part of the Solway Firth at a point opposite
the western extremity of the Roman wall of Hadrian
across the N of England. It is now quite obliterated in
many parts, and more or less obscm-e in many others, but
still in some is very distinct. It appears to have been
invariably 8 feet broad at the base, to have had a fosse
along its N or inland side, and to have been built, in
most places, of unchiselled blocks of common moorstone ;
in others, of stone and earth commingled ; and in a few, as
at Hightae Flow in Lochmaben parish, entirelj' of earth.
It separates the fertile lands of the seaboard districts
from the irreclaimable wastes and \v\\A fastnesses of the
mountains, and may be presumed to have been built by
an industrious or comparatively settled people on its
southern, as a defence against a warlike or comparatively
roving people on its northern, side. All facts respecting
it, however, even all trustworthy traditions, have been
lost. Chalmers, the author of Caledonia, says, in a letter
to Mr Joseph Train, who traced the Deil's Dyke from
end to end : — ' Considering all its circumstances, it is
extremely difiicult to assign its age, its object, or its
builders. In Ireland there is nothing like the Deil's
Dike ; the inference is that it was not made by Irish
hands. I am disposed to think that this work is several
centuries older than the arrival of the Irish Cruithne
in Galloway.' And again: — 'It is obviously a very
ancient work, and was probably formed by the Romanised
Britons after the departure of the Roman armies. ' — Ord.
Sur., shs. 3, 4, 8, 9, 10, 6, 1856-64.
Deil's Dyke, a denudated trap dyke projecting from the
general line of the SE coast of Big Cumbrae island in
Buteshire. See Cujibrae.
Deil's Mill. See Devil's Mill.
Delfour, a place, with ancient Caledonian monuments,
in Alvie parish, Inverness-shire, 1| mile WSW of Alvie
church. The monuments are a central cairn, two con-
centric circles of standing stones around the caii-n, and
an obelisk, 8^ feet high, 25 feet to the W.
Delgaty Castle. See Dalgety.
Delney, a station on the Highland railway, in Kilmuir
Easter parish, Ross-shire, 3^ miles NE of Invergordon.
DeLnies. See Nairn.
Deloraine, two pasture farms in Kirkhope parish,
Selkirkshire, 13 miles SW of Selkirk. The title of Earl
of Deloraine in the peerage of Scotland was conferred in
1706 on Henry Scott, second surviving son of the Duke
of Monmouth, and became extinct at the death of his
grandson, the fourth Earl, in 1807.
Delting, a parish in the Mainland of Shetland, in-
cluding the islands of Bigga, Fishholm, Brother Isle,
Little Roe, and Jluckle Roe, only the last of which is
inhabited. It is bounded N by Yell Sound, separating
it from Yell ; E by Lunnasting and Nesting ; S by
Weesdale and Sandsting ; and W by St Magnus Bay
and Sulein Voe. Joined to Northmaven by a narrow
neck of land, less than 100 feet broad, that seimrates
the German from the Atlantic Ocean, it has an utmost
length of 20 miles, and varies in breadth from 3 to 6
miles, being much intersected by voes or arms of the
sea. The surface is, for the most part, hilly, bleak,
and barren ; but along the banks of the voes and in
the valleys are patches of good arable land. The chief
harbours are St Magnus Bay, Sulem Voe, Olnafirth
Voe, Busta Voe, and Goufirth Voe. In the island of
iluckle Roe there is some fine rock scenery ; and the
sea washes into several large caves — the haunts of
numerous wild birds. There are remains of an ancient
artificial harbour at Burravoe, and some vestiges of
a I'ictish house at Brough, on Yell Sound. Fully
DELVINE
one-half of the parish belongs to the estate of the
Gitfords of Busta. The next largest proprietor is
Major Cameron of Garth. The other properties are
small. The principal residences are Busta, Garth,
Udhouse, Mossbank, and Voe. There are large stores
and fish-curing establishments at Voe, Brae, and Moss-
bank. Delting is in the presbytery of Olnafirth and
synod of Shetland ; the stipend is £150, with 9 merks
of glebe and a good manse. There are two parish
churches, distant about 10 miles fi'om one another, viz.,
Scatsta, built in 1811, and Olnafirth in 1868. There
are also a Free church at Brae and a U.P. church at
Mossbank ; and the six schools of Brae, Goufirth,
Firth, Muckle Roe, Olnafirth, and Mossbank, with
total accommodation for 254 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of -164, and grants amounting to
£201, 14s. Valuation (1882) £2361, 12s. 8d. Pop.
(1801) 1449, (1831) 2070, (1861) 1975, (1871) 1862,
(1881) 1654.
Delvine, an estate, with a mansion, in Caputh parish,
Perthshire, near the left bank of the Tay, 4^ miles NE of
Mui'thly station, and 74 ESE of Dunkeld. Its owner,
Sir Alex. Muir-Mackenzie, third Bart, since 1805 (b.
1840 ; sue. 1855), holds 4241 acres in the shire, valued
at £6420 per annum.
Demyat. See Dunmyat.
Den, a village in Abdie parish, Fife, near the Lady-
bank and Perth railway, l| mile SE of Newburgh.
Den, a village of recent and rapid growth in Dairy
parish, AjTshire, 2J miles NE of Dairy to^vn. At it is
Kersland Barony Church of Scotland school, which,
with accommodation for 281 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 167, and a grant of £116, 3s.
Denbrae, an estate, with a mansion, in St Andrews
parish, Fife, 2f miles WSW of the town.
Denbum. See Aberdeen.
Den Fenella, a romantic ravine, traversed by a burn,
in Garvock and St Cjtus parishes, Kincardineshire. It
commences about Ih mile E by S of Laurencekirk, and
extends 3^ miles south-eastward to the sea, at a point
1| mile SW of Johnshaven. It took its name from
Fenella or Finvela, daughter of the Earl of Angus, in
the time of Kenneth III. ; and here she is said to have
been slain by her pursuers as she fled from Kincardine
Castle, after the murder of the king at Fettercairn
through her treachery (995). Its beauties of crag and
chasm and wooded bank have often been celebrated
in prose and verse ; near its mouth is a beautiful
■waterfall, 65 feet in leap ; and its stream is spanned
by a handsome bridge and by the viaduct of the Bervie
railway.
Denfind, a steep winding ravine, traversed by Pitairlie
Burn, in Monikie parish, Forfarshire. It bisects a
reach of hill in the central part of the parish ; and, at a
point where its sides are precipitous, is spanned by a
massive one-arched bridge.
Denhead, a village, with a public school, in Cameron
parish, Fife, 3 miles SW of St Andi'cws, under which it
has a post office.
Denhead and Denmill, a conjoint village, with a spin-
ning-mill, in Litf and Benvie parish, Forfarshire, 2
miles W of Lochee.
Denhead of Auchmacoy, a hamlet, vrith a public
school, in Logie- i^>uclian parish, E Aberdeenshire, 2^
miles E by N of Ellon, under which it has a post
office.
Denholm, a village in Cavers parish, Roxburghshire,
on a low plateau above the right bank of the Teviot, 2
miles E of Hassendean station, and 5 NE of Hawick.
With a deep wooded dell to the W, called Denholm-
Dean, it forms a square round a neatlj^-fenced pul)lic
green, and chiefly consists of well-built houses with
gardens attached, having been greatly improved by the
late James Douglas, Esq. of Cavers. Yet, modern as it
looks, the place is old, since we read of its burning by
Hertford in 1545. The low, thatched, wliitewashed
cottage still stands on the N side of the village, in which
was bom the scholar-poet John Leyden (1775-1811), and
in the middle of the village green an obelisk was erected
DENNY
to his memory in 1861. Inhabited mainly by stocking
weavers, quarrymen, and farm labourers, Denholm has
a post office under Hawick, with money order, savings'
bank, insurance, and telegraph departments, 3 inns, a
stone bridge over the Teviot (1864), a Free church (1844 ;
364 sittings), a public school, an excellent sub.scription
library, a horticultural society (1849), and public water-
works, which, formed in 1874 at a cost of more than
£700, draw their supply from a spring nearly 2 miles
distant, and afford 50 gallons per day for each inhabi-
tant. Pop. (1861) 766, (1871) 659, (1881) 645. See
Cavers.
Denino. See Dunino.
Denmill, Forfarshire. See Denhead.
Denmiln Castle. See Abdie.
Dennissness, a headland in Cross and Bumess parish,
Sanday island, Orkney.
Denjiiston. See Glasgow.
Denniston. See Dumbarton.
Denny, a to\vn and a parish of SE Stirlingshire. The
town stands on the right bank of the Carron, opposite
Dunipace, with which it is connected by a bridge ; by
road it is 5^ mUes WNW of Falkirk, 5^ NNE of Cum-
bernauld, and 7i S by E of Stirling, whilst, as terminus
of a branch of the Scottish Central section of the Cale-
donian, opened in 1859, it is 3f miles WNW of Larbert
Junction, 32^ WNWof Edinburgh, and 25^ NE of Glas-
gow. Only a small village down to the close of last cen-
tury, it is almost entirely modern, and has a post office,
v\ith money order, savings' bank, insurance, and tele-
graph departments, branches of the Bank of Scotland
and Clydesdale Bank, 13 insurance agencies, 3 hotels, a
gas company, a people's hall, library, and reading-room,
an Oddfellows' hall, and fairs on the AYednesdays before
12 May and after 11 November. Large public schools
were built in 1875 at a cost of £5000 ; and places of
worship are the parish church (1813 ; 768 sittings) with
a turreted steeple 75 feet high, a Free church (1843),
a U.P. church (1796; reconstructed 1881), and the
Roman Catholic church of St Patrick (1861). In 1876
Denny and Dunipace were formed into a police burgh,
which, governed by 9 commissioners, had a municipal
constituency of 580 in 1882. Pop. of Denny alone (1841)
1881, (1851) 2446, (1861) 2428, (1871) 2433, (1881) 2823;
of police burgh (1876) 3595, (1881) 4081.
Besides part of Bonnybridge, 2| miles to the SSE,
the parish contains also the villages of Denny-Loanhead,
Parkfoot, Longcroft, and Haggs, which extend con-
tinuously along the Glasgow highroad, Denny-Loanhead
being IJ mile S, and Haggs 3| miles SSW, of Denny
town. It is bounded NW by St Ninians, NE and E by
Dunipace, SE by Falkirk, SW by Cumbernauld in Dum-
bartonshire (detached) and Kilsj-th, and W by Kilsyth.
From E to W its utmost length is 5| miles ; its width,
from N to S, varies between 5i furlongs and 3J miles ;
and its area is 8356| acres, of which 48 are water. The
Carron winds 7^ miles east-north-eastward and east-
south-eastward on or close to all the boundary with St
Ninians and Dunipace ; Bonny Burn runs 4f miles east-
south-eastward and east-north-eastward along all the
Dumbartonshire and Falkirk border ; and three others
of the Carron's affluents flow east-north-eastward through
the interior. At the eastern extremity of the parish the
surface declines along the Carron to 100 feet above sea-
level, thence rising westward to 234 feet near Hillend,
400 near Banknoc'k, 696 at conical ilyot Hill, 563 near
Leysbent, 460 at Cowden Hill, 965 at Tardulf Hill, and
1170 at Darrach Hill upon Denny Muir. The rocks are
partly eruptive, partly carboniferous ; and the soil is
loamy along the Bonny and the lower reaches of the
Carron, gravelly throughout the central district, and
marshy or moorish over most of the uplands. Of the
entire area, 5840 acres are in tillage, 789 pasture, 1499
waste, and only 181 under wood. Coal and ironstone
are mined, and employment is further afforded by paper,
chemical, and engine works at Denny town, by Carron-
bank Foundry (1860) and Denny iron-works (1870), by
Bonnybridge Columbian stove works (1860), foundry
(I860), and malleable iron-works (1877), and by Baukier
351
DENNY-LOANHEAD
distillery. Banknock House is the chief mansion ; and
5 proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 20 of between £100 and £500, 37 of from £50
to £100, and 70 of from £20 to £50. In the presbytery
of Stirling and synod of Pertli and Stirling, this parish
was detached from Falkirk in 161S, and is now divided
ecclesiastically among the quoad sacra parishes of Haggs,
Bonnybridge, and Dennv, the two first formed in 1875
and 1878, and the last' a living worth £393. Denny
public and Roman Catholic and Lawhill and Longcroft
public schools, with respective accommodation for 350,
188, 50, and 250 children, had (1880) an average attend-
ance of 278, 115, 16, and 236, and grants of £244,
7s. lOd., £113, lis., £27, 18s., and £2u6, 10s. Valua-
tion (1860) £13,098 ; (1882) £24,820, 4s. 4d., including
£1833 for raUway. Pop. of parish (1801) 2033, (1831)
3843, (1861) 4988, (1871) 4993, (1881) 5728 ; of Denny
registration district (1881) 4228.— Crc^. Sur., sh. 31,
1867.
Denny-Loanhead, a village in Denny parish, Stirling-
shire, \i mile S of Denny town. It has a post office
under Dennj', and a U.P. church, which, succeeding one
of 1735, was built in 1815 at a cost of £1400, and
contains 731 sittings.
Denoon, a glen, traversed by a burn, in Glamis and
Eassie parishes, W Forfarshire. Rising on the north-
eastern slope of Auchterhouse Hill (1399 feet), the burn
^\^nds 6^ miles north-by-westward, till it falls into Dean
"Water, at a point 23 miles WNW of Glamis village.
The Sidlaws at its head and along its course have alti-
tudes of from 1200 to 600 feet above sea-level ; and the
tracts flanking its lower parts subside into the plain of
Strathmore. Vestiges of an ancient fortification, crown-
ing isolated Denoon Law (689 feet) within the glen, 2^
miles SW of Glamis village, comprise foundations of
a circular wall 1020 feet in circumference and faint
traces of interior buildings, and bear the name of
Denoon Castle. The circular wall is believed to have
been 30 feet broad and 27 feet high, and the entire forti-
fication is supposed to have been designed as a place of
retreat in times of danger. — Ord. Sur., shs. 48, 56,
1868-70.
Denovan, a village, a calico-printing establishment, and
an estate in Dunipace parish, Stirlingshire. The village
stands near Carron Water, | mile ENE of Denny, and has
charming environs. The calico-printing establishment
is on the Carron, adjacent to the village ; was com-
menced in the year 1800 ; and employs a large number
of persons, many of whom reside in Denny. The estate
comprises about one-fourth of the parish, and belongs to
Forbes of Callendar.
Denside, a hamlet, with a girls' school, in Tannadico
parish, Forfarshire.
Derclach, a loch in Straiton parish, S Ayrshire.
Lying 870 feet above sea-level, it has an utmost length
and width of 4i and 1 J furlongs, and sends off a rivulet
1 furlong eastward to the head of Loch Finlas. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 8, 1863.
Derculich, an estate, ■with a mansion, in Dull parish,
Perthshire, near the left bank of the Tay, 3^ miles NE
of Aberfeldy. Loch Derculich, 2 miles to the NNW,
falls partly within a detached portion of Logierait parish,
and, lying about 1200 feet above sea-level, has an utmost
length of 4 J furlongs, with a varying width of 1§ and 4
furlongs. It contains some pike anil abundance of fine
trout, which will not, however, always rise to the fly ;
and it sends off Derculich Burn, running 2^ miles
south-south-eastward to the Tay. — Ord. Sur., sh. 55,
1869.
Dergan (Gael, dcarfj-ahhuinn, 'red river'), a rivulet
in Ardchattan parish, Argyll.shire, rising at an altitude
of 1100 feet, and running 4^ miles north-north-westward
along Glen Salloch and tlirough the woods of Bak-
CALUINK, to Loch Creran. — Ord. Sur., sh. 45, 1876.
Demconner, a large village of recent growth in Auchin-
leck paiisii, Ayrshire. At it arc a Church of Scotland
mission station (1874) and a public school. Pop. (1871)
928, (1881) 14.35.
Demock. See Darnock.
352
DESKFORD
Deny or Loch an Dithreibh, a lake in the S of Tongue
parish, Sutherland, 6;^ miles SSW of Tongue church.
Lying 268 feet above sea-level, it is 1^ mile long and 5
furlongs wide, sends ott' the Kinloch to the head of the
Kyle of Tongue, and abounds in yellow trout. — Ord.
Sur., shs. 114, 108, 1880.
Derry, a burn of Crathie and Braemar parish, SW
Aberdeenshire, issuing from Loch Etciiachan (1320
feet), on the NE side of Ben Macdhui, and running 6^
miles east-south-eastward and southward, till it falls into
Lui Water at Derry Lodge (1386 feet), 9 miles WNW of
Castleton. The ordinary ascent of Ben Macdhui is up
Glen Derry, which the Queen in her Journal describes as
' very fine, with the remnants of a splendid forest,
Derry Cairngorm (3788 feet) being to the right, and
Derry Water running below.' — Ord. Siir., shs. 64, 65,
1874-70.
Dervaig, a village, with public and girls' schools, in
Kilniniau parish. Mull island, Argyllshire, at the head
of Loch Cuan, 8f miles WSW of Tobermory.
Derval. See Darvel.
Deskford, a village and a parish in the N of Banff-
shire. The village, Kirktown of Deskford, stands on
the left bank of the Burn of Deskford, 4 miles S of
Cullen, like Mhich it has a post ofiice under Fochabers.
Bounded NE and E by Fordyce, S by Grange, and NW
and N by Rathven, the parish has an utmost length from
NNE to SSW of 4J miles, an utmost breadth of 3
miles, and an area of 8170 acres, of which 15 are water.
Deskford Burn, with a north-north-easterly course
here of 5| miles, divides the parish into two pretty
equal halves ; and the surface, sinking at the northern
extremity to close on 100 feet above sea-level, thence
rises southward to 353 feet at the wooded Gallows
Knowe, 556 at Cotton Hill, 504 at Weston, 845 at the
Hill of Clashmadin, 871 at Black Hill, and 1028 at
Lurg Hill, whose summit, however, falls just within
Grange. Numerous small cascades occur on the Desk-
ford's affluents, one of them, called the Linn, being a series
of leaps with total fall of 30 feet, and with surroundings
of high beauty. The rocks, having undergone great
geognostic disturbance, include almost vertical strata of
mica slate, with fragments of quartz embedded therein,
and a rich bed of fine compact limestone, which has been
largely worked. The soil, in the strath, is chiefly loam
resting on strong deep clay ; but, toward the hills, is
light, black, mossy humus, overlying clay and gravel.
About one-third of the entire area is either regularly or
occasionally in tillage ; some 600 acres are under wood,
either natural or planted ; and the rest is either pasture
or waste. This parish has long been the property of
the Earls of Findlater and Seafield ; and Deskford
Tower, which, standing near the village, was demolished
within this century, was the ancient family seat. Skeith
Castle, once also a striking feature, has left no vestiges ;
and another venerable edifice, probably baronial, but
possibly ecclesiastical, stood in the garden of Inalterie
farmhouse, and is now represented by only a vault.
A curious relic, found about 1816 in a mossy knoll
adjacent to that old vault, con.sisted of brass some-
what in the form and of the size of a swine's head,
with a wooden tongue moved by springs, and with
tolerably e.xact representations of eyes ; it is now in the
museum of the Banft' Scientific Institution. Deskford
is in the presbytery of Fordyce and synod of Aberdeen ;
the living is worth £355. A new parish church. Pointed
Gothic in style, was built in 1872 at a cost of £1000,
and contains 500 sittings. There is also a Free church ;
and a new public school, erected in 1876 at a cost of
£1182, with accommodation for 162 children, had (1880)
an average attendance of 111, and a grant of £97, 8s. 6d.
Valuation (1882) £4441, 8s. Pop. (1801) 610, (1831)
828, (1861) 1031, (1871) 972, (1881) 849.— Ord. Sur.,
sh. 96, 1876.
Deskford or Cullen Bum, a rapid, deep-channelled
stream of Banffshire, rising in the S of Deskfoid parish,
and tiience winding 7^ miles north-eastward-north,
north-westward, and again north-eastward till it falls
into the Moray Firth at Cullen Bay.
DESKRY
DEVON
Deskry, a rivulet of SW Aberdeenshire, rising, at an
altitude of ISOO feet, on the western shoulder of Morven
Hill (2862 feet); close to the meeting-point of Glenniuiek,
Logie-Coldstone, and Strathdon parislies. Thence it
\sinds 10 miles north-north-eastward and west-south-
westward, between Logie-Coldstono and Strathdon par-
ishes, across the Migvie district of Tarland parish, and
between that district and Towie parish, till it falls into
the Don i mile E of Castle-Newe. Its trout are small
but excellent. — Onl. Sur., sh. 75, 1876.
Dess, a station in the NE of Aboyne parish, Aber-
deenshire, on the Deeside railway, 3 miles NE of Aboyne
station.
Deuchar, an estate, with a mansion, in Fearn parisli,
Forfarshire, S miles W by N of Brechin.
Deuchar. See Yarrow.
Deugh, a stream of Carsphairn parish, N Kirkcud-
brightshire, rising on the eastern slope (2000 feet) of
Windy Standard, and thence curving 5 miles westward
along the Ayrshire border, next 15 miles southward,
east-south-eastward, and southward again through the
interior, till, at the SE angle of the parish, and at a
point 7 miles NNW of New Galloway, it falls into the
Ken, after a descent of 1620 feet. — Ord. Sur,, shs. 15,
14, 8, 9, 1863-64.
Devar. See Davaee.
Deveron or Doveran (Gael, da-abhuinn, 'double
river'), a river of Aberdeen and Banft' shires, rising in
two main head-streams — whence the name — among the
mountains of Cabrach, the longer of the two having its
source on the mutual border of Cabrach and Glenbucket
parishes, 3 miles SW of the summit of the Buck of Cab-
rach (2368 feet). Thence it has a total course of 61g miles,
viz., 25^ from its source to the Bridge of Gibston near
Huntly, 24 thence to Eastside Bridge near Turriff, and
12§ thence to its mouth ; and during this course it de-
scends from 1847 feet above sea-level at its source to 414
near Huntly and 114 near Turriff. It partly winds along
in serpentine folds, but, on the whole, goes north-east-
ward to the influx of the Bogie below Huntly, northward
thence to Rothiemay, eastward or east-north-eastward
thence to the vicinity of Turriff, and northward thence
to the Moray Firth. Its connections with respectively
Aberdeenshire and Banffshire are so fitful, leading it
now into the one county, now into the other, now along
the boundary between the two, as to render it more a
pjuzzler than an expounder in political topography ; yet,
in one long sweep, from above Glass church to the
vicinity of Rothiemay church, it runs entirely mthin
Aberdeenshire ; and over another long sweep, from a
point 4 mUes AVSW of Turriff' to its mouth at the Moray
FirtL, it roughly traces the boundary line between the
shires. The parishes immediately watered by it,
whether through their interior or along their confines,
are Cabrach, Glass, Huntly, Cairnie, Fordyce, Rothie-
may, ilarnoch, Inverkeithny, Turriff', Forglen, Alvah,
King-Edward, Banff, and Gamrie. The river, in the
upper part of its course, is a mountain stream, careering
along a series of glens, always rapid, sometimes impetuous,
and occasionally subject to tremendous freshets. All
the bridges on it above Huntly were swept away by the
great flood of Aug. 1829, when at Huntly it rose 22
feet above its ordinary level. But its march, in the
middle and lower parts of its course, is tranquil and
beautiful, through fertile plains, amid brilliant em-
bellishments of wood and mansion, with several stretches
of close scenery as exquisitely fine, in both nature and
art, as almost any in Great Britain. The fertility of
its banks, like that of the banks of the Don, is celebrated
in both proverb and song. Its chief tributary, besides
the Blackwater and Bogie, is the Isla, which joins it a
little above Rothiemay. The Deveron, thence to tlie
sea, is about two-thirds the size of the Don. Well
stocked \vith salmon and trout, it is mostly preserved,
except about Huntly ; and it has bag-net fisheries on
either side of its mouth, extending into the sea. A
shifting bar here varies with gales of wind, and under-
went such change in 1834 as first to close entirely the
former mouth, and next to lay open a new one 600
23
yards further to the E ; hence disputes have arisen
among the cruive owners as to the line of the river's
bed. The salmon fishings up the river belong chiefly to
the Earl of Fife, partly also to Abercromby of Forglen
and Gordon of ]\layen ; those at its mouth belong partly
to the Earl, partly to the town of Banff. — Ord. Sni:,
shs. 75, 85, 86, 96, 1876. See chap. xxi. of Sir Thomas
Dick Lauder's Moray Floods (Elgin, 1830 ; 3d ed. 1873).
Devil's Cauldron, an ancient circular structure in
Kingarth parish. Isle of Bute, a little AV of the head of
Kilchattan Bay, and 7 miles S of Rothesay. It is
situated within a grove, not far from the ruins of St
Blank's Chapel, of which it was an appendage and ^^'ith
wiiich it probably communicated by a subterranean
passage. It consists of a dry-stone wall, 10 feet thick
and 74 feet high, enclosing a space 30 feet in diameter,
with an entrance from the E ; and it is said to have been
used, in pre-Reformation times, as a place of penance.
Devil's Cauldron, a wild and very romantic chasm,
on the mutual boundary of Comrie and ilonzievaird
parishes, Perthshire, 11 mile N of Comrie village. Led-
nock Water traverses it ; and ' the stream, after cutting
its path through a black crag, the sides of which it has
polished to the appearance of ebony, throws itself im-
petuously into a basin, where it hisses, and foams, and
shrieks, and writhes, like a demon newly plunged into
Tartarus. '
Devil's Cowe, a cave in Kincraig Hill, at the south-
western extremity of Kilconquhar parish, Fife.
Devil's Dike. See Deil's Dike.
Devil's Mill, a waterfall on the mutual boundary of
Perthshire and Kinross-shire, on the river Devon, about
350 yards ENE of Ruml:>ling-Bridge, and IJ mile WSW
of Crook of Devon. The river here, after rushing along
a craggy ravine, and passing into a chasm of consider-
able length but scarcely 6 feet in Avidth, falls over a
rock into a deep cavity, where it is tossed round with
such great violence as to beat constantly on the rocky
sides of the chasm, and cause a clacking noise like
that of a mill at work. The waterfall is not seen ; but,
in ordinary states of the river, when neither too low
by draught, nor too high by freshet, the noise is very
distinctly heard. A common reason given by the
country people for the name Devil's Mill is, that the
noise continues on all days alike, paying no regard to
Sunday ; but another reason given is, that the scene and
working of the waterfall are indicative of a grinding to
destruction. A cavern, called the Pigeon's Cave, is near
the waterfall.
Devil's Staircase, an abruptly declivitous byroad on
the N border of Argyllshire, deflecting from the high-
way at the head of Glencoe, 3 miles W of King's House.
It descends northward to the head of Loch Leven, and
communicates there with an old road north-north-
westward to Fort William.
Devol's Glen, a ravine, traversed by a brook, in Green-
ock and Port Glasgow parishes, Renfrewshire. Com-
mencing among hills 794 and 682 feet high, and descend-
ing 2J miles north-eastward to the E end of Port
Glasgow town, it is rocky, wooded, and romantic. It
is flanked, near the head, by a precipice, called Wallace's
Leap, over which Sir William Wallace is fabled to have
leaped on horseback; and it contains two beautiful
though tiny waterfalls, respectively about 20 feet and
about 100 feet in leap.
Devon, a river of Perth, Kinross, Clackmannan, and
Stirling shires, rising among the Ochils in the N of
Alva parisli, at an altitude of ISOO feet, and 9 furlongs
WNW of tlie summit of Bencleuch. Thence it winds 14
miles north-eastward, eastward, and south-eastward to
the Crook of Devox, and thence again 191 west-south-
westward, till, after a total course of 33f miles, it falls
into the Forth at Cambus, 2| miles W by N of Alloa,
and only 5:^ miles in a straight line SSW of its source.
During this course it traverses or bounds the parishes of
Alva, Blackford, Tillicoultry, Glendevon, Fossoway,
Muckhart, Dollar, Tillicoultry, Alva, Logic, and Alloa.
The last song written liy Burns, written as he lay dying
at Brow (12 Jidy 1796), was, 'Fairest maid on Devon
DEVON. BLACK
banks, Crystal Devon, -windinf; Devon ' — the maid, that
Charlotte "Hamilton of Mauchline, whom he had seen at
Harviestoun nine years before, and then had celebrated
in another most exquisite lyric —
' How pleasant the banks of the clear winding Devon,
With green spreading bushes, and flowers bloominj fair !
But the bonniest flower on the banks of the Devon
Was once a s\veet bud from the banks of the Ayr.'
Others than Bums have sung of the beauties of the
Devon and its valley, shown at their best in a long
reach below the Crook of Devon, where the stream
traverses a series of ravines and chasms, and makes
the famous falls described in our articles Devil's Mill,
Rumbling-Bridge, and Caldron Linn. The cliffs that
riank its chasms and ravines are of no great height,
nowhere exceeding much 100 feet ; but they acquire
aspects of sublimity and savageness from the narrow-
ness and gloom of the spaces which they enclose, and
aspects of picturesqueness and witchery from copsewood,
herbage, and overshado\ving woods. The river's aggre-
gate descent, from source to mouth., is close upon ISOO
feet, and its basin is so ramified among nearly all the
southern and south-western Ochils as sometimes to send
down freshets to the plains, with the suddenness and
volume of a waterspout. The river is not navigable,
yet, according to a survey made by James Watt in 1760,
it could be rendered navigable for several miles at a cost
of about £2000. It is a capital trouting stream, every-
where open to the public ; its trout average rather less
than 4 lb. each. The Stirling and Dunfermline rail-
way crosses it, near the mouth, on a viaduct partly sup-
ported by piers, partly suspended on strong timber
beams ; and the Devon Valley railway follows it from
its lower waters upward to Crook of Devon. — Ord. Sur.,
shs. 39, 40, 1869-67.
Devon, Black or South, a small river of Fife and
Clackmannanshu-e, rising on Outh Muir (900 feet)
in the N of Dunfermline parish, 7 furlongs WSW of
Duraglow, the highest of the Cleish HUls, and thence
running 15^ miles westward and south-westward through
and along the borders of Saline and Clackmannan
parishes, till it falls into the Forth, IJ mile SE of
Alloa. It has very small volume in droughty seasons,
most of its waters being then collected in dams or
reservoirs for driving mills ; it takes the name of
Black Devon from the gloomy appearance of its waters ;
and it contains some pike and little trout. — Ord. Sur.,
shs. 40, 39, 1867-69.
Devon, Crook of. See Crook of Devon.
Devon Iron-works, an extensive establishment in the
Sauchie section of Clackmannan parish, Clackmannan-
shire, near the left bank of the Devon, 2^ miles NNE
of Alloa. Including three furnaces and a large foundry,
it turns out 6000 tons of pig-iron in the year, and con-
verts a considerable portion thereof into cast-iron goods ;
and it communicates, by one railway with Alloa Har-
bour, by another with Clackmannan Pow at the mouth
of the Black Devon.
Devonshaw, a hill (1275 feet) in Lamington and
"Wandel parish, Lanarkshire, on the right bank of the
Clyde, opposite Roberton village. Its SW shoulder is
crowned with an ancient circular camp.
Devonside, a village in Tillicoultry parish, Clackman-
nanshire, -J mile SSE of Tillicoultry town. It adjoins
a brick and tile work, and is near a coal mine. Fop.,
with Langan. (1881) 555.
Devon Valley Railway, a railway in Clackmannan,
Perth, and Kinross shires, partly along the middle
reaches of the river Devon, and thence deriving its
distinctive name. A reach of 3^ miles north-east-
ward, from a junction with tlie Stirling and Dunfermline
railway at Alloa to Tillicoultry, is practically a portion
of the line, but was opened in 1851, prior to any part
of the line proper, as a branch of the Stirling and Dun-
fermline railway. The Devon Valley line proper, extend-
ing from a junction with that branch at Tillicoultry
east-north-eastward to a junction with the Fife and Kin-
ross railway, in the vicinity of Kinross, was originally
projected in 1857, and authorised in 1858, on a capital of
854
DHUHEABTACH
£90,000 in shares and £30,000 in loans. It was formed,
under the original authority, only from Rumbling-
Bridge to Kinross Junction ; the rest being formed, in
two successive reaches, under connection from 1866 with
the North British system. The reach from Rumbling-
Bridge to Kinross is 6i miles long, was opened on 1 May
1863, traverses a level district, and has no works of
more than ordinary consequence except a rock cutting
at Rumbling-Bridge. The reach from Tillicoultry to
Dollar is 2^- miles long ; was begun to be formed in
1867, and completed in May 1869 ; and also has no
works of more than ordinary consequence. The reach
from Dollar to Rumbling-Bridge is 4^ miles long ; was
begun to be formed in 1869, and opened on 1 May
1871 ; has several works of very heavy character ; and
rises to a summit-level of 320 feet above the elevation
of its starting-point at Dollar. An embankment on
it contiguous to Dollar is 40 feet high and more than
900 yards long. A viaduct over the Devon is 52 feet
high and 390 "feet long; has six arches, each of from
49 to 55 feet in span ; and curves on a radius of 30
chains. A cutting at Arndean is 80 feet deep at the
deepest part, and involved the removal of about 180,000
cubic yards of sand. A viaduct in Gairnej^ Glen is 110
feet high and 360 feet long ; has six arches each 45 feet
in span ; and occupies a most picturesque position. Ten
other small viaducts and seven overarching bridges
occur between Dollar and Rumbling-Bridge. Since 1
Jan. 1875 the Devon Valley has been amalgamated ^vith
the North British.
Dewar, a hamlet in Heriot parish, Edinburghshire, 6J
miles S of Middleton. Dewar farm, adjacent to the
hamlet, contains a spot called the Piper's Grave, tradi-
tionally associated with a foolish and fatal exploit of a
Peebles piper ; and Dewar Hill, not far therefrom, is
crowned with a remarkable large stone, called Lot's Wife.
Dewarton, a village on Vogrie estate, in Borthwick
parish, Edinburghshire, li mile W of Ford.
Dews, a small marsh}' lake in Fetteresso parish, Kin-
cardineshire. It once was of considerable extent, but
has become exceedingly reduced, and it is so occupied
with aquatic plants as to be sometimes called Lily Loch.
Dheirrig or Eilean Dearg (Gael. ' red island '), an
islet of Inverchaolain parish, Argyllshire, the furthest
of a small group in the mouth of Loch Riddon, at the
elbow of the Kyles of Bute, 2\ miles NW of Coliutraive.
It is crowned by ruins of a fort, erected by Archibald,
ninth Earl of Argyll, in 1685, during his disastrous
expedition from the Netherlands.
DMvach. See Divach.
Dhruim, a river-gorge in Kilmorack parish, Inverness-
shire, extending about 2 or 3 miles south-westward from
Kilmorack church, and traversed by the river Beauly.
It is flanked by steep mountain acclivities, clothed with
birch and pine ; is fringed, along the river's brinks, by
rows of oaks, alders, and weeping birches ; is swept,
along the bottom, by a series of cascades over shelving
masses of red sandstone ; and has, altogether, a roman-
tically picturesque character.
Dhu. See Bexdhu.
Dhu or Dubh Loch (Gael. ' black lake '), a wild moun-
tain lake in the SW of Glenmuick parish, Aberdeenshire,
If mile AV of the head of Loch Muick, to which it sends
otf the Allt an Dubh-loch. Lpng 2091 feet above sea-
level, it has an utmost length and breadth of 5J and 1 J
furlongs, and is overhung to the S by Cairn Bannoch
(3314 feet) and Broad Cairn (3268), which culminate
just on the Forfarshire border. Here, on 16 Sept. 1852,
the Queen received confirmation of the death of the
Duke of Wellington.— Orrf. Sur., sh. 65, 1870.
Dhuheartach, a rocky basaltic islet of Argyllshire,
15i miles SW of lona. Lying fully exposed to the
Atlantic, it is 240 feet long, 130 broad, and 35 high,
and was surmounted in 1867-72 by a lighthouse rising
143 feet above high-water level. The lighthouse is a
parabolic frustum, and was built of granite (quarried and
dressed at Carraid, on the shore of the Sound of lona, and
landed with great difficulty on the rock. Only 27 days
in 1867, 38 days in 1868, 59 days in 1869, and 62 days
DHUISK
in 1870 were sufficiently calm to permit the landing of
the materials. The light, which is visible for ISi
nautical miles, is fixed white, except between S by W
i W, and ^Y ^ N, where it is fixed red. See the Builder
for Feb. 2, 1S72, and May 6, 1876.
Dhuisk or Dusk, a rivulet of Colmonell parish, in the
S of Carrick, Ayrshire. Formed by the Feoch and
Pollgowau Burns, at a point 1 J mile ESE of Barrhill
village, it thence runs 6 miles north-westward, closely
followed by the Girvan and Portpatrick railway, till
near Pin wherry station it falls into the Stinchar. —
Ord. Sur., shs. 8, 7, 1863.
Dibaig, a hamlet, with a public school, near the
mutual boundary of Applecross and Gairloch parishes,
Ross-shire.
Dichmont, a hill-summit in St Vigeans parish, Forfar-
shire, 1 mile NE of St Vigeans village. It rises to an
altitude of 323 feet above sea-level, and is cro\\nied with
a large hollow cairn or mound, anciently used as a seat
of justice, and now clothed with greensward.
Dichty or Dighty Water, a stream of S Forfarshire.
Rising in four head-streams, among the Sidlaw Hills, in
the W of Lundie parish, it runs 15 miles east-south-
eastward through Auchterhouse, Mains and Strathmar-
tine, Dundee, and Monifieth parishes ; receives, within
Dundee parish, the tribute of Fithie ^Yater ; and falls
into the Firth of Tay 1| mile ENE of Brouglity Ferry.
It drives several mills in the middle and lower parts of
its course, and is well stocked with trout. — Orel. Sur. ,
shs. 48, 49, 1868-65.
Digmore, a small harbour in Xorth Uist island. Outer
Hebrides, Inverness-shire, on Balranald farm, towards
the middle of the island.
Dildawn. See Daldawx.
Dillarbum, a village in Lesmahagow parish, Lanark-
shire, 1^ mile NXE of Abbeygi-een.
Dilty, a morass in Carmylie and Guthrie parishes,
Forfarshire, 1^ mile ESE of Kirkbuddo station. Measur-
ing about \ mile either way, it sends off two streamlets
in opposite directions — the head-stream of the Elliot
running eastward directly to the sea, and a tributary
streamlet running westward to the river Dean.
Dinart. See Durxess.
Dingwall (Scand. 'hill of justice'), a town and a
parish of SE Ross-shire. A royal and parliamentary
burgh, the town stands on the north-western shore, and
a little below the head, of Cromarty Firth, which here
is joined by the PefFer ; by road it is 13J miles NW of
Inverness via Kessoek Ferry, and by rail, as junction of
the Dingwall and Skye railway (1870) with the main
Highland line (1862), 53 EXE of Strome Ferry, 82|
SW V.y S of Helmsdale, 18^ NW of Inverness, 210^
NNW of Edinburgh, and 226J N by W of Glasgow.
The beautifully-wooded plain on which it stands was
once a swampy marsh, but since 1817 thorough drainage
and spirited agriculture have made it one of the loveliest
valleys in the N of Scotland. The burgh, lying snugly
among rich clumps of trees, at the entrance of Strath
PefFer, chiefly consists of one main street, a mile in
length ; and, while the majority of its houses are irre-
gularly disposed and unpretentious architecturally, still
there are several very handsome residences, most of
which have sprung up within the past thirty years.
Yet Dingwall is a place of hoar antiquity, the county
town, having arisen under the shelter of the neighbour-
ing castle of the Earls of Ross, which, built close beside
the Firth, was almost surrounded by water, but now has
left hardly a vestige, its site being partly occupied by a
modern mansion. The To\\'n -house is a curious old-
fashioned edifice, with a spire ; the County Buildings, a
handsome castellated pile a little way E of the town,
were erected in 1845 at a cost of £5000, and contain a
court-house, county rooms, and a prison with eighteen
cells. A public hall was built in 1871 ; and a cottage
hospital, H-shaped in plan, in 1872-73, as a memorial
to the late Dr "William Ross. Near the church is a
plain and simple obelisk, 6 feet S(j[uare at the base, and
57 feet high, but thrown slightly oft' the perpendicular
by an earthq^uake of 1816 j in 1875 it ijroved upon
DINGWALL
exploration to mark the resting-place of its founder,
George Mackenzie, the celebrated first Earl of Cromartie
(1630-1714). The parish church itself, with a steeple
and 800 sittings, was built in 1801 ; the present hand-
some Free church in 1869 ; and the Episcopal church of
St James, an Early Decorated structure with 120 sittings,
in 1872, its predecessor having been destroyed by fire
the year before. In 1874 a public park, adjoining the
Beauly road, was gifted to the burgh by the late Sir
James Matheson, Bart, of the Lews, who had at one
time been provost ; and Dingwall besides has a post
office, with money order, savings' bank, insurance, and
railway telegraph departments, branches of the Bank of
Scotland and the Caledonian and National banks, 21
insurance agencies, 3 hotels, gas-works, a masonic lodge,
a literary association, militia barracks, a poorhouse, and
a Friday paper, the Ross-shire Journal (1875). A corn
market is held on every Wednesday from 26 September
to 30 Jilay, and the following are the fairs throughout
the year : — New Year Market, third Wednesday of
January ; Candlemas (cattle and produce), do. of Febru-
ary ; Janet's, first Wednesday of June ; Colin's (cattle,
etc. ), first Tuesday of July ; Fell Maree, first Wednesday
of September ; Martha's, do. of November ; and Peffer,
Tuesday before Christmas. After the forfeiture of the
Earls of Ross in 1476 Dingwall seems to have gone down
in the world ; and its petition of 1724 to the Convention
of Burghs sets forth that ' the town is almost turned
desolate, as is weel known to all our neighbours, and
there is hardly anything to be seen but the ruins of old
houses, and the few inhabitants that are left, having now
no manner of trade, live only by labouring the neigh-
bouring lands, and our inhabitants are still daily de-
serting us.' Accordingly, in 1733, Inverness sent a
deputation, which brought back word that Dingwall
had no trade, though one or two were inclined to carry
on trade if they had a harbour, also that it had no
prison, and that for want of a bridge across an adjacent
lake the people were kept from both kirk and market.
Now, though its trade is still not very great, and
though manufactures are conspicuous by their absence,
Dingwall at least has a harbour. A mile below the
bridge coasters had once to load and unload on the mud
at low-water, their cargoes being carried along a bad road
to and from the E end of the town. This inconvenience
was remedied by shaping the lower reach of the Pefi^er into
a regular canal, 2000 yards long, with two wharfs at
which vessels of 9 feet draught can lie — such improve-
ments being carried out in 1815-17 at a cost of £4365, of
which £1786 was furnished by the Highland road commis-
sioners and £600 by the Convention of Burghs. Erected
Seal of Dingwall.
into a royal burgh by Alexander II. in 1226, and having
adopted the General Police and Improvement Act of
1862, Dingwall is governed by a provost, a senior and a
junior bailie, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and 10 coun-
cillors, who also act as police commissioners. With
Wick and four other burghs, it returns a member to
355
DINGWALL AND SKYE RAILWAY
parliament, its municipal and parliamentary con^9ti-
tuency numbering 229 in 1882, when the annual value
of real property, exclusive of railway, was £7533, whilst
the cori)oratiou revenue for ISSl was £152, and the har-
bour revenue £210. Pop. (1841) 1739, (1S51) 1966,
(1861) 2099, (1871) 2125, (1S81) 1918. Inhabited houses
(ISSl) 351.
The parish is bounded N and NE by Kiltearn, SE by
the head of Cromarty Firth and by the river Conan,
separating it from the Nairnshire district of Ferintosh,
S by the Tollie section of Fodderty and by Urray, and
SW by the main body of Fodderty. It has an utmost
length of 61 miles from NNW to SSE, and its width
varies between 9 J furlongs and 4| mUes, whilst tapering
north-westward to a point. The Peffer winds 2J miles
east-south-eastward along the Fodderty border and
through the interior to the Firth ; the Skiach runs 1|
mile north-eastward across the northern interior ; and
Loch Ussie (6i x 43 furl.) lies at an altitude of 419 feet,
partly within a western projecting wing. Except for
the low level stiip, 3 furlongs wide, between the Firth
and the Inverness highroad, and for a portion of Strath
Peffer, the surface is everywhere hilly, even mountainous,
from S to N attaining 259 feet near Blackwells, * 628
near Croftandrum, *SS2at Cnoc Mor, *450 at Knock-
bain, 1109 at Cnoc a' Bhreac, and * 2000 at Meall na
Speireig, those heights that culminate on the parish's
borders being marked with asterisks, and one and all
being dominated by Ben Wytis (3429 feet). The rocks
are gneiss and mica slate in the northern uplands, and
in the S conglomerate and Old Ked sandstone. Around
the town there is a deep deposit of loam with a large
admixture of clay, very suitable for the growth of wheat,
but demanding great care in the cultivation ; the soil
on the lower slopes of the rising-grounds is also clayey ;
and the higher cultivated laud is mountain clay or
moorish soil, the former becoming very fertile Avith long-
continued good treatment, the latter very difficult to
improve (Mr James Macdonald in Trans. Higlil. and Ag.
Soc, 1877). In the N are remains of an ancient Cale-
donian stone circle. Tulloch Castle is the chief man-
sion ; and 2 proprietors hold each an annual value of
£500 and upwards, 12 of between £100 and £500, 21 of
from £50 to £100, and 26 of from £20 to £50. Ding-
wall is the seat of a presbytery in the synod of Ross ;
the living is worth £436. A public school, with accom-
modation for 360 children, had (1880) an average attend-
ance of 222, and a gi-ant of £177, 3s. Valuation (1881)
£4992, 18s. 2d., of which £2654 was held by Duncan
Davidson, Esq. of Tulloch. Pop. (1801) 1418, (1831)
2124, (1861) 2412, (1871) 2443, (1881) 2211.— Ord. Sur.,
shs. 83, 93, 1881.
The presbyterj- of Ding^\-all comprises the old parishes
of Alness, Contin, Dingwall, Fodderty, Kilmorack, Kil-
tearn, Urquhart, and Urray and Kilchrist, and the quoad
sacra parishes of Carnoch and Kinlochluichart. Pop.
(1871) 16,562, (1881) 15,517, of whom 330 were com-
municants of the Church of Scotland in 1S78. — The Free
Church also has a presbj-tery of Dingwall, with churches
at Alness, Dingwall, Fodderty, Garve, Kilmorack,
Kiltearn, Maryburgh, Stiathconon, Unjuhart, and Urray,
which together had 4351 members and adherents in
1881.
Dingwall and Skye Railway, The, designed to open
up to railway facilities the western coasts of Eoss and
Inverness, and by means of steamers to afford access to
the principal islands of the Outer and Inner Hebrides,
was originally projected to reach Kyle Akin (the Strait
of Haco), where the island of Skye is separated from the
mainland by a narrow channel. A bill for a line to this
point was obtained in 1864, but the difficulty of raising
the capital caused the adoption of a modified schema,
carrj-ing the line to its present western terminus on Loch
Carron. The railway, branching from the Highland line
at Dingwall, rises a short distance therefrom upon a steep
incline, on which is situated the first station, Strathpefl'er
(4^ miles). This station occupies a remarkably elevated
position, the famous spa that gives it name beiiK; situated
IJ mile away iu the deep valley below. The view from
356
DIPPIN
this portion of the line is magnificent ; prominent amongst
the objects of interest being Castle-Leod, belonging to
the Duchess of Sutherland (Countess of Cromartie in her
own right), which is seen in the midst of fine trees.
After leaving Strathpeffer, the line passes through a
cutting close vmder Craig -an- fhitaich, the ' Raven's
Rock,' whose precipitous face, 250 feet high, beetles
ominously over the railway. Half-a-mile further the line
enters Ross-shire, and passes Loch Garve, the first of a
series of fine lochs wliich skirt the route. The shores
are nicely wooded. The station of Garve (II5 mUes)
forms the starting-point for Lochbroom and Ullapool
by a wild coach road over the Biridh More. The line
afterwards passes Loch Luichart, where there is a station
(17 miles), and the Grudie, Loch C'uUiu, and Strathbran
aflbrd varying aspects of Highland scenerj'. Achanault
station (21;| miles) is a favourite starting-point for the
ascent of a number of the giant mountains of Ross-shire.
Auchnasheen station (27$ miles) is the starting-point
for the coach to Gairloch, the road passing along the
whole length of Loch Maree, and forming one of the
finest drives in Scotland. Beyond Auchnasheen the
line, after crossing the Bran on a fine lattice bridge,
reaches its summit-level, and immediately begins to
descend to the western coast. There is here some re-
markably Mild and bleak scenery ; and at Auchnashel-
lach, the shooting-lodge of Lord Wimbome, suiTOunded
by fine grounds, appears like an oasis iu the desert.
The line then skirts Loch Dougall, 4 miles in length,
with vast precipitous hills rising from it. Strathcarron
station (45| miles) at the head of Loch Carron is next
reached, forming the station for Janetown on the op-
posite side of the loch, and for the wild region of Loch
Torridon. From Attadale, the line skirts the upper
waters of Loch Carron, and reaches its terminus at Strome
Ferry (53 miles). The line was cheaply constructed,
the principal works being the cutting above Strathpefl'er
and a few large bridges. The total capital expenditure
amounted to £330,000. In 1881 the line was amalga-
mated with the Highland railwaj-. In the winter of
the same year high tides damaged tlie line, which sub-
sequently was blocked by a heavy fall of rock, these inter-
ruptions occurring between Attadale and Strome Ferry ;
and the traffic was on both occasions interrupted for a
number of daj-s.
Dingy's How, an ancient tumulus 36 feet high on the
isthmus at the southern extremity of St Andrews pai-ish,
Ovknej.
Dinlabyre, an ancient chapelry in Castleton parish,
Roxburghshire, on the left bank of Liddel Water, 1 mile
SSE of Steele Road station. An old-fashioned mansion,
now a farm-house, occupies the site of its chapel.
Diimiurchie. See Bakr.
Dinnet, a station, a burn, and a moor of S Aberdeen-
shire. The station is on the Deeside section of the
Great North of Scotland railway, 4^ miles W of AbojTie.
The burn, issuing from Loch Daven, and receiving also
the effluence of Loch Kinord, runs 2^ miles south-east-
ward along the boundary between Aboyne and Glen-
muick parishes, falls into the Dee in the vicinity of
the station, and may be regarded as the line of demar-
cation between the Lowlands and Highlands of Dee-
side. The moor flanks the W bank of the burn, is a
bleak dismal tract, and contains several cairns and
several vestiges of ancient warfare. Near the station is
a Gothic church, built in 1875 at a cost of £700 as
a chapel of ease to Aboyne, and raised to quoad sacra
status in 1881.
Dinwoodie, a station in Applegarth parish, Annan-
dale, Dumfriesshire, on the Caledonian railway, 6 miles
NNW of Lockerbie. Dinwoodie Hill (871 feet), IJ
mile to the ENE, is crowned with two hill-forts ; and
on its SE slope is the graveyard of a chapel, said to have
belonged to the Knights Templars.
Dionard. See Durxess.
Dippen, an estate, with a mansion, in SaddtU parish,
E Kintyre, Argyllshire, close to Carradale village.
Dippin, a grandly mural headland on the SE coast of
Arran island, Buteshire, 1^ mile NE of Kildonan Castlo,
DIPPLE
DIVIE
and 4 miles S by "W of tlie southern entrance of Lamlasli
Bay. A range of precipice 300 feet high, it rises
sheer from the water's edge ; is leapt by a brook, in a
curve of spray, to the sea ; and forms a very conspicuous
landmark to mariners.
Dipple, an ancient parish of NE Elginshire, on the
left bank of the river Spey, opposite Fochabers. It was
united with Essil in 1731 to form Speyraouth ' parish.
Its church was dedicated to the Holy Ghost ; and at its
lychgate stood a small building known as ' The House
of the Holy Ghost.' Around this building funeral
parties would always bear the corpse, following the course
of the sun ; nor could they be driven from that practice
till the house was demolished.
Dippool Water, a rivulet of Carnwath parish, E
Lanarkshire, rising near the Edinburghshire border at
an altitude of 1050 feet above sea-level, and running 7^
miles south-south-westward, till it falls into Mouse
"Water, 2 miles NNW of Carstairs Junction. Its waters
contain good store of line large trout. — Ord. Sur., sh.
23, 1S65.
Dirie or Dirrie More, a desolate mountain pass in
Lochbroom parish, central Koss-shire, on the road from
Dingwall to Ullapool. On the watershed between the
Atlantic and German Oceans, it attains its maximum
altitude (909 feet) near the head of Loch Droma, 161
miles NW of Garve station, and 3J miles SSE of the
summit of Ben Dearg (3547 feet). — Ord. Sur., sh. 92,
1S81.
Dirleton, a village and a coast parish of N Hadding-
tonshire. The village stands, towards the middle of the
parish, 2| miles WSW of North Berwick, and 1^ mile
NW of Dirleton station, this being 2| miles NNE of
Drem, imder which Diideton has a post office. One of the
prettiest villages in Scotland, it chiefly consists of neat
modern cottages, each with its plot of flowers and shrubs,
arranged along two sides of a large triangular green, on
whose third or south-eastern side the ivy-clad ruins of
Dirleton Castle stand amidst gardens of singular beauty,
their bowling-green adorned with grand old evergi-een
oaks. This seems to be the identical stronghold that in
1298 offered a stubborn though fruitless resistance to
Anthony Beck, the fighting Bishop of Durham ; its
ruinous state is due in great measure to the ordnance of
Monk and Lambert, who, in 1650, captured it from a
garrison of mosstroopers, hanging their captain and
two of his followers. The parish church, at the N end
of the village, bears date 1661, and, altered and enlarged
in 1825, contains 600 sittings. There are also a Free
church, an inn, a librarv, and a public school. Pop.
(1861) 354, (1871) 323, (1881) 403.
The parish, containing also the villages of Gullane,
Kingston, and Fenton, is bounded NW and N by the
Firth of Forth (here 8J miles broad at the narrowest), E
by North Berwick, and S by Athelstaneford and Aber-
lady. Its length, from E to W, varies between 2| and 5^
rniles ; its utmost breadth, from N to S, is 3§ miles ; and
its area is 10,798| acres, of which 1620| are foreshore
and 2 water. The coast-line, 9 miles long, rises almost
boldly to 100 feet above sea-level at Eklbottle Wood,
but elsewhere is mostly fringed by the flat sandy East,
West, and GuUane Links ; to the W it is indented by
Gullane and Aberlady Bays ; and off it to the N lie the
three islets, composed of greenstone rock, of Eyebroughy,
Fidra, and Lamb. The sluggish Peffer Burn, tracing
the southern boundary, is the only noteworthy rivulet ;
and inland the surface is very slightly undulated, its
highest point (118 feet) occurring on the road to Drem,
5 mile SS W of the village. The rocks are partly eruptive,
partly carboniferous, and including dark-red jasper veins,
excellent building sandstone, some coal, and considerable
quantities of ironstone. The soil is extremely various —
in one part a deep, stiff, alluvial clay, and near the
coast stretches of the lightest sand, burrowed by hun-
dreds of rabbits ; whilst there is also much deepj free
loam, the product of which in summer and autumn
presents an appearance of almost unrivalled luxuriance.
Fenton Barns, If mile N by E of Drem, is famous in
agricultural annals as the home, till 1873, of George
Hope, Esq. (1811-76), an interesting Life of whom, by
his daughter, was published in 1881. Sir John Haly-
burton, slain at the battle of Nisbet in 1355, had wedded
the daughter and co-heiress of William De Vaux, lord of
Dirleton, and got with her that estate : his grandson,
Sir Walter, Lord Treasurer of Scotland, founded a col-
legiate church at Dirleton in 1446, and six years earlier
was created Lord Halyburton of Dirleton — a title for-
feited in 1600 by John, third Earl of Gowrie and .sixth
Lord Ruthven and Dirleton, who won over Logan of
Restalrig to his plot by the proffered bribe of the lands
and castle of Dirleton. ' I care not,' wrote Logan, ' for
all else I have in this kingdom, in case I get grip of
Dirleton, for I esteem it the pleasantest dwelling in Scot-
land.' (See Perth and Fast Castle. ) To-day the Earl
of Mar and Kellie bears the title of Baron Dirleton and
Viscount Fentoun, conferred in 1603 and 1606 on Sir
Thomas Erskine, afterward Earl of Kellie, who with his
own hand had slain the Earl of Gowrie ; that of Earl of
Dirleton was held, from 1646 till his death before 1653,
by Sir James Maxwell, who seems, in 1631, to have
bought the estate. In 1663 it was once more sold to
Sir John Nisbet, who as Lord Advocate bore the title
Lord Dirleton, and whose descendant, Lady ilary Nisbet-
Hamilton, of Aecherfield and Biel, owns two-thirds
of the parish. Five other proprietors hold each an
annual value of £500 and upwards, 4 of between £100
and £500, 4 of from £50 to £100, and 11 of from £20 to
£50. Dirleton is in the presbytery of Haddington and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; the living is worth
£509. Three public schools — Dirleton, Gullane, and
Kingston — with respective accommodation for 145, 81,
and 123 children, had (1880) an average attendance of
100, 34, and 56, and grants of £74, £16, 14s., and
£32, 3s. Valuation (1882) £16,499, 8s. Pop. (1801)
1115, (1831) 1384, (1861) 1540, (1871) 1419, (1881) 1506.
—Ord. Sur., shs. 33, 41, 1863-57. See vol. ii. of
Billings' Baronial and Ecclesiastical Antiquities (1852).
Dirlot Castle, an ancient fortalice in Halkirk parish,
Caithness, on a rugged crag above the river Thurso, 15
miles S of Thurso town. It is said to have been the
stronghold of a daring freebooter, a kinsman of the
Dunrobin Sutherlands, and to have been accessible only
by a drawbridge, but is now represented by slight
remains.
Dirrie. See Dieie.
Dirrington, Great and Little, two of the Lammermuir
Hills in Longformacus parish, Berwickshire. Great
Dirrington culminates 1^ mile SSE of Longformacus
hamlet, and has an altitude of 1309 feet above sea-level ;
and Little Dirrington culminates nearly \\ mile further
SSW on the boundary with Greenlaw parish, and has
an altitude of 1191 feet.
Dim, Loch. See Deerie.
Disblair, an estate, with a mansion, in Fintray parish
Aberdeenshire, 2J miles WSW of New Machar station.
Distinkhorn, a hill in Galston parish, Ayrshire, 5
furlongs from the Lanarkshire border, and of miles ESE
of Galston village. It has an altitude of 1259 feet
above sea-level, and commands a magnificent view.
Ditch Hall, an ancient structure of earth and turf on
Inverchadain farm, in Fortingal parish, Perthshire. It
is described by Blind Harry ; is said to have been Sir
William Wallace's resting-])lace for a few days, and the
place where he was joined by the men of Kanuoch, on
the eve of his march against the English at Dunkeld
and Perth ; and is still represented by some remains.
Divach, a shooting-lodge in Urquhart and Glen-
moriston parish, Inverness-shire, 2J miles SW of Drum-
nadrochit hotel. Romantically situated between the
Coiltie and its affluent, the Allt Coire na Ruighe, Mith
the lofty Divach Falls, it was a favourite residence of
John Phillip, R.A. (1817-67), and figures in Shirley
Brooks' Sooner or Later.
Divie, a rivulet of Cromdale and Edinkillie parishes,
Elginshire, rising, at an altitude of 1400 feet, on the E
slope of Carn Bad na Caoracli (1557 feet), 3 miles SE
of Dava station, and thence running V2\ miles north-
north-westward, till, after receiving Dorbock Burn, it
367
DOBSON'S WELL
falls, near Relugas, into the river Fintlhorn. A capital
trout stream, strictly preserved, it almost vies with the
Fiudhorn in the wild and varied beauty of its scenery,
and is subject to terrific freshets, that of Aug. 1829
doing damage at Dunphail to the extent of £5000.
Near Edinkillie church the Divie is spanned by a viaduct
of the Highland railway, which, measuring 500 feet in
length of masonry, and comprising 315 feet of arching,
rises to a maximum height of 170 feet above the ordi-
nary level of the stream. Four battlemented towers
command the approaches, which are gained by embank-
ments containing 190,000 cubic yards of material. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 84, 1S76. See chaps, v.-vii. of Sir
Thomas Dick Lauder's Moray Floods (Elgin, 1830 ;
3d ed. 1873).
Dobson's Well, a weak chalybeate spring in Hadding-
ton parish, i mile W of Haddington town.
Dochaxt, a loch, a river, and a glen in Killin parish,
Perthshire. Lying at the head of the glen, 1 mile E of
Crianlarich station, and 512 feet above sea-level, the
loch measures 6 by 1^ furlongs, is overhung to the SE
by conical Benmore (3843 feet), and contains a small
•wooded islet, on which stand the ruins of a castle of the
Campbells of Lochawe. At its head it receives the
FlLL.\N, and from its foot sends off the river Dochart,
which flows 13:J miles east-north-eastward to the head
of Loch Tay (290 feet), in the first | mile of its course
expanding into Loch Tubhair (IJ mile x 2^ furl. ; 512
feet), and ^ mile from its mouth being joined by the
Lochy. Just above Killin, it ' takes up a roaring
voice, and beats its way over a rocky descent among
large black stones ; islands in the middle turning the
stream this way and that ; the whole course of the river
verv wide.' Stream and lochs contain salmon and
trout, also — unluckily — pike. Glen Dochart, at a point
2i miles SW of Killin, is joined at right angles from
the S by Glen Ogle, and takes up thence, past Loch
Dochart, the Callander and Oban railway ; along it
from W to E are Lochdochart Lodge, Luic station
and hotel, Auchlyne House, and Ardchyle hamlet.
For an exquisite picture of loch and river and glen
we must recur to Dorothy Wordsworth, who, with
her brother, drove from King's House to Luib on Sun-
day, 4 Sept. 1803: — 'We had about eleven miles to
travel before we came to our lodging, and had gone
five or six, almost always descending, and still in the
same vale (Strath Fillan), when we saw a small lake
before us, after the vale had made a bending to the left.
It was about sunset when we came up to the lake ; the
afternoon breezes had died away, and the water was in
perfect stillness. One grove-like island, with a ruin
that stood upon it overshadowed by the trees, was
reflected on the water. This building, which, on that
beautiful evening, seemed to be wra])ped up in religious
quiet, we were informed had been raised for defence by
some Highland chieftain. All traces of strength, or
war, or danger are passed away, and in the mootl in
which we were we could only look upon it as a place of
retirement and peace. The lake is called Loch Dochart.
We passed by two others of inferior beauty, and con-
tinued to travel along the side of the same river, the
Dochart, through an irregular, undetermined vale —
poor soil and nmch waste land. ... On Alonday
we set ofl" again a little after six o'clock — a fine morning
— eight miles to Killin — the river Dochart always on
our left. The face of the country not very interesting,
though not unjjleasing, reminding us of some of the
vales of the north of England, though meagi-e, nipped-
up, or shrivelled compared with them. Within a mile
or two of Killin the land was better cultivated, and,
looking down the vale, we had a view of Loch Tay.
. . . We crossed the Dochart by means of three
bridges, which make one continued bridge of great
length. On an islan<l Ijelow the bridge is a gateway
with tall pillars, leading to an old burying-ground be-
longing to some noble family' (pp. 185-187 of Recollec-
timis of a Tour in Scotland, ed. by Princ. Shairp, 1874).
This burying-gi-ound is that of the Macnabs, from whom
Glcu Dochart was named the Macnab country. It now
353
DOLL
is included in the Breadalbane territory, the clan having
emigrated to Canada in the first two decades of the
present century. Francis, twelfth laird (1734-181G),
was an eccentric character, who, in company once with
some English gentlemen connected with the Excise,
answered a query respecting the state of Glen Dochart
with : ' Ther was once a crater callt exciseman sent
up to my country, but — they kilt him.' — Ord. Sur., sh.
46, 1872.
Dochfour, a lake in Inverness parish, Inverness-shire,
in the Great Glen, 5 miles SW of Inverness town. An
expansion of the river Ness, separated by a run of
only \ mile of that river from the foot of Loch Ness, it
measures 1^ by \ mile, and is sometimes called Little
Loch Ness. The hills around are beautifully wooded,
and a burn that runs into it makes some pretty cascades.
Dochfour House, on its western shore is a mansion in
the Venetian style, described by Prince Albert as 'new
and very elegant, with a fine garden,' on occasion of his
visit here, 16 Sept. 1847. Its owner, Evan Baillie, Esq.
(b. 1798), holds 141,148 acres in the shire, valued at
£15,931 per annum.— Orrf. Sur., sh. S3, ISSl.
Dochgarroch, a hamlet in Inverness parish, Inver-
ness-shire, on the Caledonian Canal, at the foot of Loch
Dochfour, 4J miles SW of Inverness. It has a regulat-
ing lock on the canal, for averting winter floods of Loch
Ness whenever these rise above the standard-level of the
navigation ; and has also a public school.
Dodbum. See Allan, Roxburghshire.
Dod Hill. See Wanlockhead.
Dods-Corse Stone, an ancient cross on Boon farm, in
Legerwood j)arish, Berwickshire, 4 miles ESE of Lauder.
It is a sandstone shaft, sunk into a square sandstone
block, and is said to have been a market-cross.
Dodside, a hamlet in Mearns parish, SE Renfrewshire,
near Newton-Mearns.
Doecleugh, a place on Skelfliill farm, in Teviothead
parish, Roxburghshire, 7 miles SSW of Hawick. It has
an ancient Caledonian hill-fort, and it adjoins the line
of the Catrail.
Dogden, an extensive moss on the mutual border of
Greenlaw and Westruther parishes, Berwickshire.
Dogs, Isle of, a tiny wooded island in Loch Laggan,
Laggan parish, Inverness-shire, nearlj' opposite Ardveri-
kie. It is said to have contained the kennel of ancient
Scottish kings for their huntings in Lochaber.
Dog's Stone (Gael. Clach-a-Choin), a huge isolated
conglomerate block on the shore of Oban Bay, Argyll-
shire, f mile NNW of Oban town. AVith a deejily
water-worn base, and an outline somewhat similar to
that of an inverted cone, it embeds large fragments and
boulders, and seems at one time to have formed part of
a high precipitous sea beach. Curious legends are
attached to it — that Fingal here tethered his ' blue-eyed
hunter' Bran, and that the Lords of Lorn kennelled
their hounds beside it at their hunting expeditions with
the Lords of the Isles.
Dogton, a farm in Kinglassie parish, Fife, 4f miles
NW of Kirkcaldy. It contains an ancient hewn stand-
ing stone, 4 1 feet high above the socket, and 11 inches
thick.
Doine, a lake in Balquhidder parish, Perthshire, in
the ujjper part of the Balquhidder vale, 4| miles W
by S of Balquhidder hamlet. Lying 420 feet above sea-
level, it has an utmost length and breadth of 7i and 2^
furlongs ; is overhung steeply to the N by ]\Ieall Jlona-
chyle (2123 feet) ; and by a reach of the river Balvag,
1^ furlong in length, communicates eastward with Loch
VoiL, from which it is separated by only a low patch
of haugh, that in times of freshet is sometimes over-
flowed.—0/y;. Sur., sh. 46, 1872.
Doll, a glen in the NW of Cortachy and Clova parish,
Forfarshire, near the meeting-point with Pcrtli and
Aberdeen shires. It is traversed by the White Water,
running 6\ miles cast-south-eastward to the river South
Esk, at a point 3 miles WNW of Clova hamlet ; and it
is remarkalile for the variety of its flora and for an over-
hanging rock, the Scorrie of the Doll. — Ord. Sur., sh.
Go, 1870.
DOLLAR
Dollar (Celt, dal-aird, 'vale amid the hills'), a small
town and a parish of Clackmannanshire. The town
stands at the foot of the Ochils, ISO feet above sea-
level, and 5 furlongs N of the right bank of the Devon ;
and by the Devon Valley section (1851-71) of the North
British it is 6 J miles NE by E of Alloa, 41 i NW of Edin-
burgh, 12| ENE of Stirling, and lOf WSW of Kinross.
Traversed by Dollar Burn, whose glen, followed up-
wards, leads to the noble ruins of Castle-Campbell,
it has been greatly improved and extended in recent
years, and presents a pleasant picturesque appearance ;
at it are a post office, with money order, savings' bank,
and telegraph departments, a branch of the Clydesdale
Bank, the Castle-Campbell hotel, gas-works, the Dollar
club, a working men's reading-room, ableachfield (1787),
and two brick and tile works. Fairs are held on the
second Monday in May and tlie third Monday in Octo-
ber. Places of worship are the parish church (1841 ;
700 sittings), an imposing Gothic structure, with a con-
spicuous tower ; a neat Free church (1858 ; 600 sittings) ;
aU.P. church (1876; 360 sittings), built at a cost of
£4500, and adorned \vith a spire 70 feet high ; and the
new Episcopal church of St James the Greater (1882),
Early English in style, with apsidal chancel, 7 rose
■irindows, 8 lancets, etc. John M'Nab (1732-1802), a
Dollar herd-boy, who as a sea-captain had risen to wealth
and settled at Mile-end, London, left £55,110 Three per
Cents, the half of his fortune, ' for the endowment of a
charity or school for the poor of the parish of Dollar. '
With this bequest, which by the end of 1825 had accum-
ulated to £74,236, was founded in 1818 Dollar Institu-
tion or Academy, whose board of trustees comprises 15
ex officio members under an Act of 1847, and which,
•with a principal and 20 other teachers, gives (1882)
instruction to 402 paying and 110 free scholars in classics,
French, German, English, history, mathematics, mecha-
nics, science, drawing, singing, and other branches of a
liberal education ; whilst its lower and infant depart-
ments, with accommodation for 597 children, had (1880)
an average attendance of 373, and a grant of £323. The
building, erected in 1819 after designs by W. Playfair,
of Edinburgh, and gi'eatly extended in 1867, is a Grecian
edifice, 186 feet long and 63 wide, with a hexastyle
portico ; a dome, upborne by fluted columns ; a library,
45 feet square and 45 high, containing 5000 volumes ; a
splendid upper hall, 60 feet long, 42 vride, and 24 high ;
and a well-kept garden of 5 acres. The Institution has
drawn, on the one hand, many families to Dollar ; and,
on the other, a number of its scholars board with the
principal or under masters : its former alumni include
James Dewar, since 1875 Jacksonian professor of natural
and experimental philosophy at Cambridge, and a goodly
list besides of distinguished ministers, engineers, mer-
chants, and others. Its income in 1881 comprised
£2235 from endowment, £1750 from school fees and
£739 from other sources ; whilst the expenditure
amounted to £4605, of which £3075 was for salaries.
Pop. of town (1841) 1131, (1851) 1079, (1861) 1540,
(1871) 2090, (1881) 2120.
The parish, containing also Sheardale village. If mile
to the SSW, is bounded NW by Blackford, and N by
Glendevon, in Perthshire ; E by Muckhart and Fossoway,
both also in Perthshire ; S by Clackmannan ; and W by
Tillicoultry. Its utmost length, from N to S, is 3 J miles ;
its breadth, from E to W, varies between 1§ and 3g miles ;
and its area is 4795^ acres, of which 22 are water. The
Devon, entering from Muckhart, winds 3| miles west-
ward, across the southern interior and on or close to
the Tillicoultry border, and receives on the way Dollar
Bum, which, itself hurrying 1| mile south-by-eastward
past the town, is formed just below Castle-Campbell by
the Bums of Sorrow and Care, running 2J miles east-
south-eastward, and li mile south -south-eastward and
southward, from the northern confines of the parish.
Westward along the Devon the surface declines to close
upon 50 feet abo%'e sea-level, thence rising southward to
353 feet near Sheardale, and northward to 538 near
Hillfoot House, 2111 at King's Seat on the western
border, and 2110 at "NVTiitewisp Hill in the N — smooth
DOLPHINTON
summits these of the green pastoral Ochils, that com-
mand magnificent views. A spongy morass, Maddy
Moss, on the NW border, lying at an altitude of from
1500 to 1750 feet, and covering upwards of 150 acres,
occasionally bursts its barrier, and sends down a muddy
torrent, by the Burn of Sorrow, to the Devon. The rocks
of the hills are eruptive, those of the valley carbonifer-
ous. Coal and sandstone are plentiful ; copper, iron,
and lead were formerly wrought in the Ochils, a little
above the town ; and beautiful agates have been found
on the top of Whitewisp; whilst a chalybeate spring,
powerfully astringent and of medicinal efficacy both ex-
ternally and internally, was discovered in 1830 at Vicar's
Bridge. The soil is argillaceous along the Devon, and
on the lands thence to the hills is light and gravelly —
about 1740 acres being either arable or grass land, 230
under wood, and all the rest either hill-pasture or waste.
In 877 the Danes, expelled by the Norwegians from
Ireland, entered the Firth of Clyde, and, passing through
the region watered by the Teith and Forth, attacked the
province of Fife. A battle fought by them at Dollar
went against the Scots, who, fleeing north-eastward to
Inverdovet in Forgan, were there a second time routed,
King Constantin mac Kenneth being among the multi-
tude of the slain (Skene's Celtic Scotland, i. 327, 1876).
The other chief episode in Dollar's history is the burning
of its vicar, Thomas Forret, for heresy, at Edinburgh,
in 1538. From 1493 to 1605 most of the parish belonged
to the Earls of Argyll ; at present 4 proprietors hold each
an annual value of £500 and upwards, 10 of between
£100 and £500, 18 of from £50 to £100, and 44 of from
£20 to £50. Dollar is in the presbytery of Stirling and
svnod of Perth and Stirling ; the living is worth £243.
Valuation (1866) £6049, (1882) £12,641, 15s. Pop.
(1801) 693, (1831) 1447, (1861) 1776, (1871) 2524.
(1881) 24:99.— Ord. Sur., sh. 39, 1867.
Dollar Law, a mountain on the mutual bor er of
]\Ianor and Drummekier parishes, Peeblesshire, 4| miles
SE of Drummelzier village, and 9h miles SW by S of
Peebles. Rising 2680 feet above sea-level, it commands
a view over the Lothians, and away over Berwickshire,
to Northumberland.
Dollars, an estate, with a mansion, in Riccarton parish,
Ayrshire, on the left bank of Cessnock Water, 4| miles;
SE of Kilmarnock.
DoUas. See Dallas.
DoUerie, a mansion in Madderty parish, Perthshire^
2f miles E by S of Crieff. Its owner, Anthony Murray.
Esq. (b. 1802 ; sue. 1838), holds 1104 acres in the shire,
valued at £1768 per annum.
Dolls. See Glenochil.
Dolphingston, a hamlet in Prestonpans parish, Had-
dingtonshire, 1^ mile W of Tranent. It contains several
broken walls and gables, evidently of great antiquity,
and probably monastic.
Dolphinton, a post-office hamlet and a parish on the
eastern border of the upper ward of Lanai-kshire. The
hamlet stands 7 furlongs SSW of Dolphinton station,
which, as the junction of two branches of the Caledonian
and North British, is 11 miles E by N of Carstairs, IC
WSW of Leadburn, and 27^ SW of Edinburgh.
The parish is bounded NE and E by Linton, and SE
by Kirkiu'd, in Peeblesshire , SW by Walston ; and NW
by Dunsyre. In shape a triangle, with southward apex,
it has an utmost length from N by E to S by W of of
miles, an utmost breadth from E to W of 2^ miles, and
an area of 3581^ acres, of which 7^ are water. The
drainage belongs partly to the Clyde, partly to the
Tweed, inasmuch as South Medwin Water runs 2|
miles south-westward along all the boundary with Dun-
syre, Tahtii Water 1 mile southward along that with Lin-
ton ; and Back Burn, rising in tlie S of the parish, flows
3 miles north-eastward to the Tarth through the interior.
In the \V along the Medwin the surface declines to a little
more, in the E along the Tartli to a little less, than 700
feet above sea-level ; and the ' divide ' between the two
river systems is marked by White Hill (1437 feet) and
Blacic Mount (1689). The rocks, over nine-tenths of
the entire area, are eruptive ; the soil, in most parts, is
DOLPHISTON
a dry friable earth or sandy loam. More than 300 acres
are under wood, and about 250 acres of the uplands
might be profitably reclaimed. The manor belonged in
the former half of the 12th century to Dolfine, elder
brother of the first Earl of Dunbar, after whom it re-
ceived its name ; subsci]uently it became a pertinent of
BoTHWELL, and shared long in the fortunes of that
barony. Major Learmont, who commanded the Cove-
nanting horse at the battle of RuUion Green (1666), and
long lay in hiding from pursuit by the authorities, held
the property of Newholm, and was interred in Dolphin-
ton churchyard; "William Leechman, D.D. (1706-85),
professor of theology in Glasgow university, was son of
a Dolphinton farmer ; and Dr Alton, author of interest-
ing works on Palestine, was minister, and wrote the
article ' Dolphinton ' for the iN'ceo Statistical Account.
Dolphinton House, a little W of the village, is the seat
of John Ord Mackenzie, Esq., W.S. (b. ISll ; sue. 1850),
who owns 3027 acres, valued at £2262 per annum. This
parish is in the presbytery of Biggar and synod of Lothian
and Tweeddale ; the living is worth £208. The church
is old, and contains 1-10 sittings ; whilst a public
school, with accommodation for 83 children, had (1880)
an average attendance of 46, and a grant of £48, ISs.
Valuation (1882) £3464, 4s. Pop. (1801) 231, (1831)
302, (1861) 260, (1871) 231, (1881) 292.— Ord. Sur.,
sh. 24, 1864.
Dolphiston, a farm in Oxnam parish, Roxburghshire,
near the right bank of Jed Water, 4f miles SSE of
Jedburgh. Its curious old Border fortalice, now de-
molished, was the haunt of a brownie, till, hurt 1)y the
ofifer of a coarse linen shirt, he departed, and in depart-
ing sang—
' Sin' ye've gien me a harden ramp,
Nae mair o' 3'our corn I \rill tramp.'
Don, a river of S Aberdeenshire, that forms a sort of
twin stream to the Dee, ranking next thereto among
Aberdeenshire rivers as regards at once basin, magni-
tude, and notability, and possessing like it much volume
of water and much fine scenery, with very little com-
mercial importance. Yet the Don differs essentially
from the Dee in some great characters and even presents
some striking contrasts. It rises, as a small mossy
stream, If mile SSAV of Meikle Geal Charn (2833 feet),
close to the Banffshire border, and within a mile of the
river Aven ; and thence winds eastward in a direction
somewhat parallel to the Dee, at a mean distance of
about 9 miles to the N, but through a country much
less mountainous, and abounding far more in plains and
meadows. AVith little or none of the impetuousness or
fitfulness of the Dee, it displays a prevailing current of
gentleness, calmness, and regularity, and, making great
loops and bends now to the right, now to the left, it
falls at last into the German Ocean, 1 mile NE of Old
Aberdeen, and 2i miles N of the mouth of the Dee.
From soiu'ce to mouth it has a total length, following
its windings, of 82 J miles, viz., 20§ to Castlc-Newe
bridge, 42| thence to the Ury's influx, and 19^ thence
to the sea. And from 1980 feet above sea-level at its
source, it descends to 1320 at Cock Bridge near Corgarff
Castle, 900 near Castle-Newe, 450 near Alford, and 170
at the mouth of the Ury. Its chief tributaries are the
Conrie, tlie Carvie, and the Leochel on the right bank,
and the Ernan, the Nochty, the Bucket, the Kindy, and
the Ury on the left. The parishes traversed or bounded
by it are Strathdon, Tarland, Glenbucket, Kildrummy,
Towie, Leochel, Auchindoir, Alford, Tullynessle, Keig,
Tough, Monymusk, Oyne, Chapel of Garioch, Kemnay,
Inverurie, Kintore, Keithhall, Fintray, Kinnellar, Dyce,
New Machar, Newhills, and Old Machar ; and in our
articles on these parishes details will be found as to the
villages, seats, etc., along its banks.
The river's course, from the liead of Strathdon to the
upper part of Alford, lies chiefly along a series of glens ;
contracts then, for a short distance, into a narrow gullet ;
but opens presently into a considerable vale, with great
expanses of meadowland on tlie immediate banks ; and
lastly, from the New Bridge of Old Aberdeen to the sea,
is a narrow artificial channel. Its original mouth is
360
DOON
presumed to have been identical with that of the Dee ;
was afterwards at a point nearly midway between the
Dee's and its own present mouth ; and was diverted to
its present situation by the cutting of an artificial chan-
nel for its lower reach, about the year 1750, under the
direction of Professor James Gregory. The river is sub-
ject to great freshets ; swept away, in the autumn of 1768,
the greater part of the crops on the haughs and level
lands adjacent to its bed ; made similar devastation in
Aug. 1799 ; rose, on 4 Aug. 1829, to a height of 14
feet above its ordinary level ; and is now prevented
from working similar havoc onl}' hy extensive embank-
ments in the parts of its course most subject to inunda-
tion. It is one of the best trouting streams in Scotland
(especiall}' in its ujiper waters), and has some valuable
salmon fishings. Pike are fortunately few ; but river
trout, ranging in weight from h lb. to 5 lbs. , abound, as
also do salmon and sea-trout. As many as forty salmon
were killed in one season, by a single rod, in one pool
near Alford Bridge ; and 3000 salmon and grilse were
netted at its mouth in a single week of July 1849.
Between 1790 and 1800 the yearly average number of
salmon and grilse caught in the Don amounted to
43,240, between 1813 and 1824 to 40,677 ; and in 1881
towards the end of July and throughout August the net
fishings of the nether Don yielded between 300 and 400
salmon per day, but this was a great improvement over
the past two years. — Ord. Sur., shs. 75, 76, 77, 1876-73.
See chap. xxii. of Sir Thomas Dick Lauder's Moray
Floods (Elgin, 1830 ; 3d ed. 1873).
Don, a sea-loch in the E of Mull island, Argyllshire,
opposite the middle of Kerrera. Striking 2| miles north-
westward, and nowhere exceeding 1 mile in width, it
has, at the S side of its mouth, the hamlet of Achnacraig.
Donald's Cleuch, a cul de sac in the SE of Tweedsmuir
parish, Peeblesshire, striking off from Gameshope Burn
to Donald's Clench Head (2616 feet) on the Dumfries-
shire border. It is thought to have got its name from
being a retreat of the famous Covenanter, Donald Cargill.
Donan, a small island at the SW corner of Ross-shire,
in Loch Alsh, at the point where that sea-loch forks
into Lochs Long and Duich.
Donan Castle. See Castle-Donnan.
Donavourd, an estate, with a mansion, in Logierait
parish, Perthshire, near the left bank of the Tay, 2 miles
SE of Pitlochry. Its o\vner, George Gordon, Escp (b.
1816 ; sue. 1838), holds 2760 acres in the shire, valued
at £577 per annum.
Don, Bridge of, a suburb of Old Aberdeen, in Old
]\Iachar parish, Aberdeenshire, on the river Don, 2 miles
N of Alierdcen, under which it has a post office.
Donibristle, an estate in Dalgety parish, Fife, on the
Firth of Fortli, 3 miles WSW of Aberdour. Long the
property of the abbots of Inchcolm, it was granted along
with the other possessions of that abbey to Sir James
Stuart, Lord Donne, whose son and namesake, the
' I)onny Earl of Moray,' was slain here by Gordon of
Cluny and the Earl of Huntly on 7 Feb. 1592 — an
episode that forms the theme of a fine old ballad. The
present Earl of Moray holds 7463 acres in Fife, valued
at £11,086 per annum. The mansion of Donibristle has
thrice been burned, on the last occasion in 1858, when
a number of valual)le portraits perished in the flames.
Donibristle Colliery, a village, with a public school,
in Aberdour parish, Fife, 2 miles ESE of Crossgates.
Doon, a steep round hill (945 feet) in Tynron parish,
Dumfriesshire, terminating the SE end of a hill-range
between Scar and Shinnel Waters, 4 miles WSW of
Thornhill. It seems anciently to have been thickly
clothed with forest, and was crowned at an early period
by some kind of fortalice or habitation, which is said
to have been a retreat of Robert Bruce, after his slaying
the Red Comyn at Dumfries.
Doon, a huig hill of considerable height (582 feet), the
outmost spur of tlie Lammermuirs, in Spott parish, Had-
dingtonshire, 2J miles S by E of Dunbar. On its top
and slope lay David Leslie's Scotch army, 23, 000 strong,
the two first days of September 1650, the third being that
of the Battle of Dunbak.
BOON
DORES
Doon, a loch partly in Kirkcudbrightshire, but chiofly
in Ayrshire, and a river dividing the Ayrshire districts
of Carrick and Kyle. Lying 680 feet above sea-level,
the loch extends 5| miles north-by-eastward and north-
westward to within 3 miles of Dalmellington town, and
varies in width between 2 and 6h furlongs. It receives,
at its head, Gala and Carrick Lanes, discharging the
effluence of Lochs Enoch, Macaterick, and Riecawr ; on
its western side, is joined by Garpel Burn, flowing out
of Loch Finlas ; and, at its foot, sends 'off the river
Doon. Its surface is studded with five little islands
or groups of islands, viz., from S to N, Pickinaw Isles,
Castle Island, Saugh Island, Garpel Islands, and Gor-
don's Island, on the second of which is a ruined octan-
gular tower — ' Balliol's Castle.' By Chalmers this was
identified wath Laight Alpin, the scene of the death
of King Alpin of Dalriada in 741, which Skene, how-
ever, places on the eastern shore of Loch Ryan ; by
Tytler it is said to have been basely yielded to the Eng-
lish in 1306, when Seaton, its lord, who had married a
sister of Bruce, was carried to Dumfries and executed. In
1S26, nine ancient canoes, hollowed each from a single
oak tree, and from 16J to 22J feet long, were found
sunk in the loch near this islet. Boats are kept, and
trout and char are fairly plentiful. ' Viewed from a
distant eminence,' says Mr Harper, 'Loch Doon has
more the appearance of a river than a lake. It is sur-
rounded by lofty hills (1000 to 2000 feet in height) on
both the Carsphairn or Galloway and the Straiton or
Carrick side, the Gallowegian being green and grassy,
excellent for sheep pasture, to which they are almost
entirely devoted. Those on the Carrick side are wild
and solitary, vnih nought but rocks and heather. By
tunnels, which have been formed to prevent the lake,
when swollen by heavy rains, from overflowing the ex-
tensive tracts of meadow-land along the banks of the
river, its waters have been lowered considerably from
their original level, and the exposure of tracts of barren
sand, gravel, and stone on its banks, detracts consider-
ably from its beauty ' {llamhles in Galloway, 1876).
The river Doon, emerging by these two tunnels, cut out
of the solid rock, rushes impetuously into ISTess Glen, a
romantic wooded gorge some 30 feet wide, 300 deep, and
1 mile long ; expands next into Bogton Loch (6 x 1\
furl. ), in the vicinity of Dalmellington ; and thence
winds north-westward, past Waterside, Patna, Dalrymple,
Cassills House, Auchendrane House, and Alloway, till,
after a total course of 26| miles, it falls into the Firth
of Clyde, If mile S by W of Ayr. Its tributaries are
numerous, but small. The parishes, on its left bank,
are Straiton, Kirkmichael, and Maybole ; on its right,
Dalmellington, Dalrymple, and Ayr or Alloway. For
the first 3 miles below Bogton Loch the Doon's right
bank is fringed by the crescent-shaped vale of Dalmel-
lington ; . for the next 5, on either side rise treeless,
heathy knolls, or tame, uninteresting hills ; but thence,
right onward to the sea, the stream has channelled out
a mighty furrow, 10 to 200 feet deep, and 30 to 150
yards wide at the top, its bosky sides —
' the bonnie winding banks
Wliere Doon rins, wimplin, clear.'
' Naebody sings the Doon, ' thus Bums complained in
1785 ; but Burns himself atoned for the neglect, so that
its ' Banks and Braes, ' the Downans of Cassillis, and
auld Kirk-Alloway ' shine wi' the best ' now, even with
Tweed and Yarrow. Its waters contain good store of
trout, sea-trout, and salmon ; and large pike lurk in its
more sluggish pools. — Ord, Sur., shs. 8, 14, 1863.
Doon Hill. See Doon.
Doonholm, a mansion in Ayr parish, A}Tshire, on the
right bank of the Doon, 3 miles S of the town of Ayr.
It is the seat of the judge, Colin Blackburn, P.C. (b.
1813), who in 1876 received a life-peerage as Baron
Blackburn of Killearn, and who holds 154 acres in the
shire, valued at £344 per annum.
Doonside, an estate, with a mansion, and with ves-
tiges of an ancient castle, in Maybole parish, Ayrshire,
on the left bank of the Doon, 3 miles S of Ayr.
Dorary, an isolated hilly pendicle of Thurso parish,
Caithness, surrounded by Reay and Halkirk parishes,
4^ miles SSW of the main body of Thurso parish. It
belonged to the Bishops of Caithness ; it has remains of
an ancient chapel, called Gavin's Kirk or Temple Gavin ;
and it commands a very grand and extensive view.
Dorback Bum. See Abernethy, Inverness-shire.
Dorbock, a picturesque rivulet of Edinkillie parish,
Elginshire, issuing from Locuindokb (969 feet), and
running 8| miles north-north-eastward along the Crom-
dale border and through the interior, till, \ mile S of
Dunphail House, it falls into the Divie, like which it
wrought great havoc in the August floods of 1829. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 84, 1876.
Doreholm, an islet of Northmaven parish, Shetland, on
the N side of St Magnus Bay, 1^ mile ESE of the south-
western extremity of Northmaven mainland. It rises
rockily and massively from the water, and is pierced by a
natural arch or tunnel, 54 feet high, lighted by an open-
ing at the top, and permitting boatmen to fish under it.
Doras. See Kettixs.
Dores, a village and a parish of NE Inverness-shire.
The village stands on the eastern shore of Loch Ness,
towards its foot, 7 miles SSW of Inverness, under which
it has a post office ; at it are a small inn and a steam-
boat pier.
The parish is bounded NE by Inverness, SE by
Daviot-Dunlichity and the Farraline section of Bole-
skine, SW by Boleskine-Abertarff, and NW bj' Loch
Ness and Inverness. Its utmost length, from NNE to
SSW, is 15i miles ; its breadth, from WNW to ESE,
varies between 1 furlong and 4J miles ; and its land
area is 25,693 acres, including the two small Dell and
Killin sections, surrounded by Boleskine. The river
Faeigaig, entering from Daviot, and winding 65 miles
north-north-westward and south-westward to Loch Ness
at the south-western corner of the parish, is the only
considerable stream ; and the eastei'n half of the lower
lOf miles of Loch Ness belong to Dores. Other lakes,
with utmost length and breadth and altitude, are Lochs
Bunachton (| x ^ mile, 701 feet), Dundelchack (3|
miles X 1 mile, 702 feet), and Ruthven (2J miles x 4^
furl., 700 feet), on the Daviot border ; Loch Farraline
(9 X 2 J furl. , 650 feet), on the Boleskine detached bor-
der; and, in the interior. Loch Ashey (If mile x 5
furl., 716 feet), Lochan nan cun Ruadha (3| x 2 furl.,
750 feet). Loch Ceo-Glas (7x1 furl., 760 feet), and
eight smaller ones. Except for the narrow strip along
Loch Ness, traversed by Wade's military road, which
ranges in altitude between 56 and 106 feet above sea-
level, for Strath Dores, and for a portion of Strath-
errick, the surface everywhere is hilly or mountainous,
elevations from NNE to SSW being Drumashie Moor
(776 feet), Creag a' Chlachain (1000), Ashie Moor (790),
Tom Bailgeann (1514), Carn an Fheadain (1445), and
Cairn Ardochy (1116). Llost of the land is suited only
for sheep-pasture, the light arable soils lying chiefly
along the bottom of the valleys, but with patches here
and there among the hills. The rocks are mainly
granitic ; and woods and plantations cover a consider-
able area, especially along the shore of Loch Ness.
Vestiges of an ancient fort, supposed to be Scandinavian,
and called Dun-Richnan or the Castle of the King of the
Ocean, are at the head of Loch Ashey, I4 mile SE of the
village ; and several cairns a little to the E, one of them
almost equal in size to all the rest, are fabled to com-
memorate a victory won by Fingal over Ashi, the son of
a Norwegian king, and give the name of Drumashie
('Ashi's ridge') to their site. Aldourie Castle is
the principal mansion ; and 3 pro]>rietors hold each
an annual value of £500 and upwards, 4 of between
£100 and £500. Dores is in the presbytery of Inver-
ness and synod of Moray ; the living is worth £300,
The parish church, at the village, was built in 1828,
and contains 500 sittings. A preaching-station is at
Torness, in Stratherrick, 6 miles S of the village ; and
a Free church for Dores and Bona stands \% mile NNE
of the same ; whilst three public schools — Aldourie,
Bunchrubin, and Strathenick — with respective accom.
361
DORMONT
modation for 125, 80, and 110 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 20, 18, and 48, and grants of
£35, Is., £26, and £55, 18s. Valuation (1881^ £9008, 9s.
Pop. (1801) 1313, (1831) 1736, (1861) 1506, (1871) 1401,
(1881) 1146.— Orrf. Siir., shs. 73, 83, 1878-81.
Dormont, an estate, with a mansion, in Dalton parish,
Dumfriesshire. The mansion, standing on tlie right bank
of the Annan, 6 miles SSW of Lockerbie, was built in
1823, and is an elegant edifice, amid charming grounds ;
its o^vner, William Carruthers, Esq. (b. 1867 ; sue. 1878),
holds 6355 acres in the shire, valued at £4698 per annum.
Dormont, a small vale in Hounam parish, Roxburgh-
shire.
Domadilla, an ancient ' dun ' or tower in Durness par-
ish, Sutherland, in Strathmore, near the S base of Ben
Hope. Traditionally said to have been built by a Scottish
king, to serve as a hunting seat, it is now reduced to a
fragment, which, 16 feet high and 150 feet in circum-
ference, consists of two concentric walls of slaty stones.
Domal, a loch on the mutual border of Colmonell par-
ish, S Ayrshire, and Penninghame parish, NE Wigtown-
shire, 5f miles SE of Barrhill station. Lying 380 feet
above sea-level, it is 5 furlongs long from E to W ; varies
in width between 1 and 4^ furlongs ; is studded with six
or seven tiny islets ; contains pike and trout, the latter
of from h lb. to 5 or 6 lbs. weight ; and sends off Carrick
Burn, running 2;^ miles eastward to the Cree, at a point
2 miles W by S of Bargrennan. — Ord. Siir., sh. 8, 1863.
Domie, a fishing village in Kintail parish, Ross-shire,
at the head of Loch Alsh, where it branches into Lochs
Long and Duich, and in the vicinity of Castle-Donnan,
7i miles S of Strome Ferry. It contains some good
houses, and has a post oSice under Lochalsh, a girls'
public school, and a ferry across the outlet of Loch Long.
Domoch, a coast town and parish of SE Sutherland.
The capital of the count}', and a royal and parliamentary
burgh, the town is 8f miles N by E of Tain vid Meikle
Ferry, 14.^ E of Bonar-Bridge station, and 7 SSE of the
Mound station, ^vith which it communicates daily by
mail gig, and which itself is 20i miles SW of Helms-
dale, 23 ENE of Bonar-Bridge, 805 NNE of Inverness,
272J NNW of Edinburgh, and 289 NNE of Glasgow.
'Close outside the town,' says AVorsaae, 'there stands
the Earl's Cross, a stone pillar in an open field, which
is simply the remains of one of those market-crosses, so
often erected in pre-Reformation times. As a matter of
course, the arms of the Earls of Sutherland are carved
on one side of the stone, and on the other are the arms
of the town — a horsealioe. Tradition, however, will
Seal of Dornoch.
have it that the pillar was reared in memory of a battle,
fought towards the middle of the 13th century by an
Earl of Sutherland against the Danes. In tlie heat of
the fray, while the Earl was engaged in hand-to-hand
combat with the Danish chief, his sword broke : but in
this desperate strait, he was lucky enough to lay hold
of a horseshoe (the whole leg of a horse, say some) that
accidentally lay near him, with which he succeeded in
killing his antagonist. The horseshoe is said to have
362
DORNOCH
been adopted in the arms of the town in memory of this
feat ; ' and the name Dornoch is popularly derived from
the Gaelic dorn-eich, 'a horse's hoof,' though dor-n-ach,
' field between two waters,' is a far more probable
etymon. Be this as it may, Dornoch, to quote Profes-
sor J. S. Blackie, who wandered hither in the autumn
of 1881, is 'an old-fashioned, outlying, outlandish grey
nest, to which no stranger ever thinks of going except
the sheriff of the county, and he only half a stranger ;
. . an interesting old town, with a splendid
beach for bathing, a fresh, breezy, and dry atmosphere,
and a golfing ground second to none in Scotland. ' Of
the last, indeed. Sir Robert Gordon wrote in 1630 that
' about this toun, along the sea coast, there are the
fairest and largest linkes or green feilds of any pairt of
Scotland, fitt for archery, golfing, ryding, and all other
exercise ; they doe surpasse the feilds of Montrose or
St Andrews.' The town itself — no more than a village
really — consists of wide regular streets, and has a post
office, with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph
departments, a branch of the Caledonian Bank, 6 in-
surance agencies, 2 hotels, a newsroom, and a public
library. The see of Caithness, first heard of about 1130,
had here its principal church, dedicated to St Bar or Fin-
bar ; by Bishop Gilbert de Moravia (1222-45) this church
was organised as the cathedral of the Virgin Mary, with
a chapter of ten canons, a dean, precentor, chancellor,
treasurer, and archdeacon ; and, as rebuilt by him, in
the First Pointed style, it consisted of an aisled nave,
transept, choir, and massive central tower, topped with
a dwarfish spire. The tower is all that remains of St
Gilbert's work, since in 1570 the cathedral was burned
by John Sinclair, Master of Caithness, and lye Mackay
of Strathnaver, who, taking advantage of the minority
of Alexander, twelfth Earl of Sutherland, besieged and
plundered Dornoch with a small army fi'om Caithness.
Fortunately the tower escaped, and with it some fine
Gothic arches, which latter, however, fell before the
terrific gale of 5 Nov. 1605 — the day on which the Gun-
powder Plot was discovered. In 1614 the thirteenth Earl
of Sutherland partially repaired the cathedral, to make
it available for parish church ; and in 1835-37 it was
rebuilt by the Duchess of Sutherland at a cost of £6000.
The present fabric, containing 1000 sittings, is a mix-
ture of Gothic and Vandalism, and measures 126 feet
by 92 across the transepts. In the southern transept
lie sixteen of the Earls of Sutherland ; in the northern
is a stone sarcophagus, removed from the choir, and
surmounted by a cross-legged effigy of either the founder
or the founder's brother. Sir Richard de Moravia ; and
the choir, now mausoleum of the Sutherland family, is
graced by a fine marble full-length statue of the first
Duke (1758-1833) by Chantrey, with a large tablet
behind, recording the lineage and virtues of his Duchess-
Countess (1765-1839). An old tower, fronting the
cathedral, represents the Bishop's Palace, which, also
burned in 1570, lay in ruins till 1813, when jiart of it
was fitted up as the county courthouse and gaol. Subse-
quently the whole was removed, excepting this western
tower, lofty and picturesque ; and on the site thus
cleared were built the large and handsome County
Buildings, comprising courthouse, prison, record-room,
and county meeting-room. The prison was discontinued
in 1880, that of Dingwall taking its place ; and in 1881
the ancient tower was refitted and refurbished as a quaint
dwelling-place for English sportsmen. Of a monastery
of Trinity Friars, alleged by Gordon to have been
founded here between 1270 and 1280, not even a vestige
remains. Besides the Cathedral, now used as the parish
church, there is also a Free church ; and a public school
and a Christian Knowledge Society's school, with respec-
tive accommodation for 135 and 84 children, had (1880)
an average attendance of 49 and 42, and grants of
£39, 5s. 6d. and £32, 3s. Erected into a free royal
burgh and port by Charles I. in 1628, Dornoch is
governed l)y a provost, 2 bailies, a dean of guild, a
treasurer, and 4 councillors ; with Wick, Tain, Ding-
wall, Cromarty, and Kirkwall it returns one memlier to
parliament. The municipal and parliamentary consti-
DORNOCH, FIRTH OF
tuency numbered 71 in 1SS2, when the annual value of
real property was £901. Pop. (1831) 504, (1841) 451,
(1851) 599, (1S61) 647, (1871) 625, (1881) 496.
The parish contains also the villages of Clashmore and
Embo, 3f miles W, and 2| NNE, of tlie town ; and it
comprises the Kinnauld portion which, surrounded by
Eogart and Golspie, and lying, 5 furlongs N of the
main body, along the left bank of the Fleet, measures
1^ by 1 mile, and adjoins Rogart station, close to its
western extremity. It is bounded NW and N by
Rogart, XE by Golspie, E and S by the Dornoch Firth,
and SW and W by Creich ; and has a varying length
from E to "W of 4| and 9 J miles, a varying breadth from
N to S of 7 furlongs and 8§ miles, and an area of 33,931
acres, of which 3194^ are foreshore and 284 water,
■while 717§ belong to the detached portion. The Fleet
flows 2 miles east-south-eastward along the Golspie
border to the head of salt-water Loch Fleet, which, 3^
miles long, and from IJ furlong to 1§ mile wide, opens
beyond Little Ferry to Dornoch Firth ; the Cairnaig,
issuing from Loch Buie, runs 6| miles east-by-northward
to the Fleet through the north-western interior ; and
the EvELix winds 5J miles east-south-eastward along
the boundary -with Creich, then 7| miles east-south-
eastward and west-south-westward to Dornoch Firth at
Meikle Ferry. The seaboard, 12 miles long, is low antl
flat, fringed to the S by Cuthill and Dornoch sands and
links, to the E by Embo and Coul links ; inland the
surface rises west-north-westward to 261 feet near Asdale,
700 at Creag Asdale, 290 near Poles, 326 near Achavan-
dra, 700 at Creag Amaill, 930 at Creag Liath, 1000 at
Meall nan Eun, 898 at Cnoc na Feadaige, 1048 at Meall
a' Chaoruinn, and 1144 at Beinn DonuiU. The rocks
are Secondary — for the most part sandstone, which has
been largely quarried ; and coal occurs at Clashmore.
The soil is clayey inland and sandy near the sea, with
an irregular belt of black loam intervening. In Little-
town, within the burgh, is the spot where in 1722
an old woman was burned for transforming her daughter
into a pony and getting her shod by the devil —
the last judicial execution this for witchcraft in Scot-
land. Modern Skibo Castle, successor to that in
which the great Marquis of Montrose was temporarily
confined after his capture in Asstnt, is the principal
mansion ; and 2 proprietors hold each an annual value
of more, 3 of less, than £500. Dornoch is the seat of a
presbytery in the synod of Sutherland and Caithness ;
the living is worth £435. Balvraid, Embo, Rearquhar,
and Skibo schools, all of them public but the last,
with respective accommodation for 80, 62, 100, and 76
children, had (1880) an average attendance'of 32, 33,
55, and 18, and gi-ants of £31, 16s. 6d., £20, 3s. 6d.,
£45, 5s., and £30, Is. Valuation (1882) £7619, 17s. 6d.,
of which £5242 belonged to the Duke of Sutherland, and
£1501, 13s. 6d. to E. C. Sutherland- Walker, Esq. of Skibo.
Pop. (1801) 2362, (1831) 3380, (1861) 2885, (1871) 2764,
(1881) 2522.— Ord Sur., shs. 103, 94, 102, 1878-81.
The presbytery of Dornoch comprehends the old
parishes of Assynt, Clyne, Creich, Dornoch, Golspie,
Kildonan, Lairg, Loth, and Rogart, and the quoad sacra
parish of Stoer. Pop. (1871) 16,649, (1881) 15,998, of
whom 314 were communicants of the Church of Scotland
in 1878. — The Free Church also has a presbytery of Dor-
noch, ^^-ith churches at Assynt, Clyne, Creich, Dornoch,
Golspie, Helmsdale, Lairg, Rogart, Rosehall, and Stoer,
and preaching-stations at Kildonan and Shinness, of
which the nine first had together 4059 members and
adherents in 1881.
Dornoch, Firth of, the estuary of the river Oikel.
Commencing at Bonar- Bridge, at the SE end of the Kyle
of Sutherland, it extends 9^ miles east-south-eastward to
Meikle Ferry, and thence 13 miles east-north-eastward till
it merges with the North Sea at a line between Tar bat
Ness and Brora. It has a varying width of 7i furlongs
above "Wester Fearn Point, 2\ furlongs at the Point
itself, IJ mile below Easter Fearn, 3^ furlongs at Ard-
more Point, 2J miles at Edderton, 5J furlongs at Meikle
Ferry, 3j miles at Tain, If mile at the SE corner of
Dornoch parish, and 10^ miles from lirora to Tarbat
DOUGALSTON
Ness. A shoal across it 3 miles below Tain, called Geyzen
Briggs from occasioning a tumultuous roar of breakers,
forms a great obstruction to navigation, yet is not so
continuous as to hinder vessels, under direction of a
pilot, from safely passing. The N side of the firth,
between that bar and Meikle Ferry, offers some har-
bourage for small vessels in calm weather ; and Cambus-
currie Bay, immediately above Meikle Ferry, forms an
excellent roadstead, where vessels of considerable burden
can lie at anchor, and where good harbour accommoda-
tion could easily be provided. The Great North Road,
with nexus at Meikle Ferry, was formerly the main line
of communication between the southern and the northern
shores, but always was subject to delay at the ferry,
so that the road round by Bonar-Bridge, though very
circuitous, came to be generally preferred ; and now tho
railway, consisting of the Highland line on the S side
and the Sutherland line on the N side, takes the same
roundabout route. The waters of the firth abound in
shellfish, cod, and haddocks, but never have been vigor-
ously fished. —OrrZ. Sur., shs. 102, 93, 94, 1881-78.
Domock, a village and a coast parish of Annandale,
Dumfriesshire. Standing § mile inland, the village has
a station on the Glasgow and South- Western railway 14
miles NW of Carlisle and 3 E of Annan, under which it
has a post office.
The parish, containing also Lowtherton village, 1 mile
E by N of Dornock village, is bounded N and NE by
Kirkpatrick-Fleming, E by Gretna, S by the Solway
Firth, and W and NW by Annan. Its greatest length,
from N to S, is 4^ mUes ; it greatest breadth is 2^ mUes ;
and its area is 5779| acres, of which 1149^ are foreshore,
nearly 4 are water, and 523 belong to the Robgill de-
tached portion, lying 4 mile to the N and surrounded
by Kirkpatrick-Fleming and Annan. The Solway here
is 1^ mile wide ; but its channel, barely J mile across,
may be forded at low tide, by those at least who know
the perils of their path. The shore-line, 2\ miles long,
is low and sandy ; and from it the surface very gradually
rises to 59 feet at Muirhouse, 135 near Stapleton, 200
beyond Hallton, and 265 at Broadlea in the Robgill
portion, whose NE border is traced for 7 furlongs by
KiRTLE Water, the only stream of any consequence.
The land is all low ; and, excepting some 40 acres of
wood and 750 either pastoral or waste, is all under the
plough. Neither coal nor limestone has been found,
but sandstone is plentiful. The soU, in general, is loam
on a clayey bottom. The antiquities comprise remains
of an ancient Caledonian stone circle, traces of a Roman
military road, the towers of RobgUl and Stapleton, and
several curious old tombstones in the parish grave3'ard,
where are also three sculptured stones. Swordwellrig,
7 furlongs WNAV of the village, is said to have been the
scene in the 15th century of a victory over the English,
in which Sir William Broun of Coalstoun defeated and
slew Sir Marmaduke Langdale and Lord Crosby. Rob-
gill, Stapleton, and Blackyett are the chief mansions ;
and 5 proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 5 of between £100 and £500, 3 of from £50 to
£100, and 3 of from £20 to £50. Dornock is in the
presbytery of Annan and s3mod of Dumfries ; the living
is worth £330. The church, built in 1793, contains
300 sittings. A public school and an infant and female
school, with respective accommodation for 86 and 77
children, had (1880) an average attendance of 68 and 43,
and grants of £55, 4s. and £34, 13s. Valuation (1882)
£7177, 16s. 4d. Pop. (1801) 788, (1831) 752, (1861)
856, (1871) 826, (1881) 814.— OrcZ. Sur., shs. 6, 10,
1863-64.
Dorrington. See Dirrixgtox.
Dorrory. See Dorart.
Dorusmore. See Ckaignish.
Dosk, an ancient parish on the W border of Kincardine-
shire, now forming the south-eastern portion of Edzell.
Double-Dikes. See Stoneuouse.
Douchfour. See Dochfour.
Dougalston, an estate, with a mansion, on the SE
border of New Kilpatrick parish, Dumbartonshire, \\
mile ESE of Milngavie. Its owner, Robert Ker, Esq.,
DOUGLAS
holds ISOO acres, valued at £3575 per annum. Doutjal-
ston Loch (4^x1 furl.), on the Stirlin";shire border,
contains an islet, and abounds in water plants, some of
them of rare species.
Douglas, a burn in Yarrow parish, Selkirkshire, rising,
at an altitude of 2000 feet above sea-level, on Black-
house Heights, contiguous to the Peeblesshire border,
and running 6 miles east-south-eastward and south-
south-eastward, till, 2 miles below Blackhouse Tower,
it falls into Yarrow Water, at a point 1^ mile E by N
of the foot of St Mary's Loch. "With a fall of 1200 feet,
it traverses a deep and gloomy glen (hence its name
dubh-qhias, ' dark grey '), "and teems with capital trout
of about h lb. weight.— Orrf. Sur., shs. 24, 1(5, 1864.
Douglas, a town and a parish in the Upper "Ward of
Lanarkshire. The town stands on the right bank of
Douglas "Water, 3i miles SS"W of Douglas station on a
branch of the Caledonian, this being 7^ miles SS"W of
Lanark, 11 SW of Carstairs Junction, 39^ S"W of Edin-
burgh, and 13:J- ENE of :Muirkirk. Formerly a place of
much political importance, a burgh of barony with high
magisterial powers, and a seat of considerable trade and
marketing, it has fallen into great decadence, and now
presents an antique and irregular appearance. Its streets
are narrow, some of the houses look as if they still be-
longed to the Middle Ages ; and the townsfolk, with few
exception s, are weavers, mechanics, or labourers. A cotton
factory, established in 1792, continued in operation only
a few years ; and a connection with Glasgow in handloom-
weaving is now, too, all but extinct. The town, never-
theless, is still a place of some provincial consideration,
possesses a fair amount of local business, and is replete
with antiquarian interest. It has a post office under
Lanark, mth money order, savings' bank, and railway
telegraph departments, branches of the Commercial and
Royal Banks, 7 insurance agencies, the Douglas Arms
inn, gas-works, the parish church, a Free church, a U.P.
church, a public school, and fairs on the third Friday of
March and October. The kirk of St Bride, founded in
the 13th century, but Second Pointed in style, was a
prebend of Glasgow cathedral, and seems to have been
a large and stately edifice, now represented by only a
small spire and the choir, which latter was always till
1761 the burial-place of the Douglas family. In 1879-81
it underwent an extensive restoration, the vault beneath
the High Altar being entirely renewed and much en-
larged. The old coffins have been removed, and in the
new vault are now interred the late Earl and Countess of
Home. In the centre of the floor of the choir above is a
beautiful marble and alabaster monument of the Coun-
tess, which presents a striking contrast to the faded and
mutilated effigies around it ; and the E window is filled
with stained glass in memory of the Earl. ' Here,' says
Sir "Walter Scott, 'a silver case, containing the dust of
what was once the brave heart of Good Sir James, is still
pointed out; and in the dilapidated choir above appears,
though in a sorely ruinous state, the once magnificent
tomb of the warrior himself This monument is sup-
posed to have been wantonly mutilated and defaced by
a detachment of Cromwell's troops, who, as was their
custom, converted the kirk of St Bride of Douglas into
a stable for their horses. Enough, however, remains to
identify the resting-place of the great Sir James. Tlie
effigy, of dark stone, is cross-legged, and in its original
state must have been not inferior in any respect to
the best of the same period in Westminster Abbey.'*
The Covenanters, in the times of the persecution, had
* Thus Sir Walter, but the minister of Douglas, the Rev. W.
Smith, writes : 'As to tlic silver heart-case, I am not sure. There
are two enclosed in a nindern box ; but they are neglected, as it is
not kno\VTi whose hearts they are; and as to beinj,' silver, most
people would say they were lead. Last century the school stood
in the churchyard. There was no door on the ciioir, and the boys
had full liberty to do as they liked, which liberty they undoubtedly
took. So that the mutilation of statues attributed to Cromwell
was performed by inferior destructionists. The lead cases in the
BhajH; of hearts are much broken, havinj,' had the same treatment
as the monuments. I may mention that, though the body of the
Good Sir James was brought to Douglas according to tradition or
history, no bones were found when recently the 8i)ace under the
stone effl)^ was opened.'
364
DOUGLAS CASTLE
close connection with the town, being better sheltered
in its neighbourhood than in most other districts, and
in April 1689 the Caraeronian regiment was here em-
bodied in defence of the Protestant government of
William and Mary, under the command of the eldest
son of the second Marquis of Douglas. Pop. (1841)
1313, (1861) 1426, (1871) 1371, (1881) 1262.
The parish, containing also the villages of Uddington
and Rigside, 2J and 4 miles NE of the town, as likewise
Inches station, 6f miles SW of Douglas station, is
bounded NW by Lesmahagow, NE by Carmichael, E by
Wiston-Roberton, SE and S by Crawfordjohn, and W
by Muirkirk in Ayrshire. Its xitmost length is 11|
miles from NE to SW, viz., from the confluence of
Poniel and Douglas AVaters to Cairntable ; its utmost
breadth, from NW to SE, is 6J miles ; and its area is
34,317^ acres, of which 180| are water. Douglas
AVater, rising 1500 feet above sea-level, in the south-
western corner of the parish, winds 16^ miles north-
eastward through all the interior, on the way receiving
]\Ionks and Kennox Waters, Glespin and Parkhall Burns,
and Poniel Water, which last, running 9J miles east-
north-eastward, traces nearly all the boundary with
Lesmahagow ; whilst Duneaton Water flows 6j miles
east-by-southward, along all the southern border, on its
way to the Clyde. The surface, declines to less than
600 feet above sea-level at the north-eastern corner,
where Douglas Water passes from the parish ; and
elevations to the left or N of its course, from NE to
SAV, are Poniel Hill (842 feet), Arknev Hill (1225),
AVindrow Hill (1297), Hagshaw Hifl (1540), Shiel Hill
(1122), *Hareshaw Hill (1527), *Brack Hill(,1306), and
•Little Cairntable (1693), asterisks marking those sum-
mits that culminate on the Ayrshire boi'der. To the
right or S of the Douglas rise Robert Law (1329), Scaur
Hill (1249), Parkhead Hill (1241), Pagie Hill (1273),
AucHENSAUGii Hill (1286), PinkstoneRig (1255), Hart-
wood Hill (1311), Douglas Rig (1535), and Cairntable
(1944). The rocks of the valley belong to the Carboni-
ferous formation, and comprise very fine coal (including
valuable gas coal), some ironstone, limestone, and beau-
tiful white sandstone. The coal is extensively mined, both
for home use and for exportation, and the limestone and
sandstone are quarried. There are several pretty strong
chalybeate springs. The soil in most parts of the strath
is a free black mould, in some is lighter and gravell}',
and in others is clay ; on the moors it is mostlj' humus or
moss, but even here in places a deep loam. Fully three-
sevenths of the rental are from arable land, nearly
one-half is from pasture, and the rest is from minerals.
Cairns are on Auchensaugh and Kiikton hills ; and a
large one, found to contain a sarcophagus, stood formerly
on Poniel farm. Ancient churches or chajicls were at
Andershaw, Glenlaggart, Parishholm, and Chapel Hill.
The chief residences are Douglas Ca.stlk, Carmacoup,
Springhill, and Crossl)urn ; and 2 proprietors, besides
the Earl of Home, hold each an annual value of £500
and upwards, 2 of between £100 and £500, 7 of from
£50 to £100, and 17 of from £20 to £50. Douglas is in
the presbytery of Lanark and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ;
the living is worth £471. Three new public schools —
Douglas, Rigside, and Stablestone — with respective ac-
commodation for 250, 130, and 130 children, had (1881)
an average attendance of 161, 96, and 82, and grants
of £144, lis. , £89, Is. , and £87, 10s. Valuation (1860)
£12,836, (1882) £21,545, 8s. Pop. (1801) 1730, (1831)
2542, (1861) 2490, (1871) 2624, (1881) 26n.—Ord. Sur.,
shs. 23, 15, 1865-64.
Douglas Castle, an ancient ruin and a modern seat
in Douglas parish, Lanarkshire, near the right bank of
Douglas AVater, | mile NNE of Douglas town. The
Douglases, ' whose coronet so often counterpoised the
crown,' and who so closely linked the district of Dou-
glasdale to Scottish story, 'were,' says Hill liurton,
' children of the soil, who could not be traced back
to the race of the enemy or stranger, as, whatever
may have been their actual origin, they were known
as rooted in Scotland at the time when the Norman
adventurers crowded in.' The first great man of the
DOUGLAS CASTLE
house was the Good Sir James, the friend and com-
panion of Robert the Bruce in his valorous efforts to
achieve the independence of Scotland. His o\vn castle
of Douglas had been taken and garrisoned by the troops
of Edward I. ; and he resolved to recapture it, and at the
same time inflict signal chastisement on the intruders.
Tradition tells us that a beautiful English maiden, the
Lady Augiista de Berkely, had replied to her numerous
suitors that her hand should be given to him who should
have the courage and ability to hold the perilous castle
of Douglas for a year and a day ; and Sir John de Walton,
auxiousto win by his valour so lovely aprize, with Edward's
consent, undertook the defence of the castle. For
several months he discharged his duty with honour and
bravery, and the lady now deeming his probation accom-
plished, and not un-^-illing perhaps to unite her fortunes
to one who had proved himself a true and valiant knight,
wrote him a letter of recall. By this time, however, he
had received a defiance from Douglas, who declared
that, for all Sir John's valour, bravery, and vigilance,
the castle should be his own by the Palm Sunday of
1307 ; and De Walton deemed it a point of honour to
keep possession till the threatened day should be past.
On the day named Douglas, assembling his followers,
assailed the English as they returned from the church,
and, having overpowered them, took the castle. Sir
John de AValton was slain in the conflict, and the letter
of his lady-love, being found on his person, afflicted the
generous and good Sir James 'full sorely.' The account
of this captui'e of the Castle of Douglas, taken from
Barbour's Bncs by Hume of Godscroft, is somewhat
different. ' The manner of his taking it is said to have
beene thus — Sir James, taking with him only two of his
servants, went to Thomas Dickson, of whom he was re-
ceived with tears, after he had I'evealed himself to him, for
the good old man knew him not at first, being in mean and
homely apparel. There he kept him secretly, in a quiet
chamber, and brought unto him such as had been trusty
servants to his father, not all at once, but apart, by one
and one, for fear of discoverie. Their advice was, that
on Palm Sunday, when the English would come forth
to the church, and his partners were conveened, that
then he should give the word, and cry "the Douglas
slogan," and presently set upon them that should happen
to be there, who being despatched the castle might be
taken easilj-. This being concluded, and they come, as
soon as the English were entred into the church with
palms in their hands (according to the custom of that
day), little suspecting or fearing any such thing, Sir
James, according to their appointment, cryed too soon,
"A Douglas, a Douglas!" which being heard in the
church (this was St Bride's church of Douglas), Thomas
Dickson, supposing he had beene hard at hand, drew
out his sword and ran upon them, having none to second
him but another man, so that, oppressed by the number
of his enemies, he was beaten downe and slaine. In the
meantime, Sir James being come, the English that were
in the chancel kept off the Scots, and having the advan-
tage of the strait and narrow entrie, defended themselyes
manfully. But Sir James, encouraging his men, not so
much by words as by deeds and good example, and
having slain the boldest resisters, prevailed at last, and
entring the place, slew some twenty-six of their number,
and tooke the rest, about ten or twelve persons, intend-
ing by them to get the castle upon composition, or to
enter with them when the gates should be opened to
let them in. But it needed not, for they of the castle
were so secure that there was none left to keep it, save
the porter and the cookc, who knowing nothing of what
had hapned at the church, which stood a large quarter
of a mile from thence, had left the gate wide open, the
porter standing without, and the cooke dressing the
dinner Avithin. They entred without resistance, and
meat being ready, and the cloth laid, they shut the gates
and took their refection at good leisure. Now that he
had gotten the castle into his hands, considering with
himself (as he was a man no lesse advised than valiant)
that it was hard for him to keep it, the English being
as yet the stronger in that countrey, who if they should
DOUGLAS CASTLE
besiege him, he knewe of no rcliefe, he thought it better
to carry away such things as be most easily transported,
gold, silver, and apparell, with ammunition and armour,
whereof he had greatest use and need, and to destroy
the rest of the provision, together with the castle itseife,
than to diminish the number of his followers there
where it could do no good. And so he caused carry the
meale and meat, and other comes and grain into the
cellar, and laid all together in one heape : then he took
the prisoners and slew them, to revenge the death of his
trustie and valiant servant, Thomas Dickson, mingling
the victuals with their bloud, and burying their carkasses
in the heap of come : after that he struck out the heads
of the barells, and puncheons, and let the drink runn
through all ; and then he cast the carkasses of dead
horses and other carrion amongst it, throwing the salt
above all, so to make all together unuseful to the enemie ;
and this cellar is called j-et the Douglas lairder. Last
of all he set the house on fire, and burnt all the timber,
and what else the fire could overcome, leaving nothing
but the scorched walls behind him.'
In 1313, Sir James took the castle of Roxburgh, and
in the following year commanded the centre of the
Scottish van at Baxnockburx. In 1317 he defeated
the English under the Earl of Arundel ; and in 1319,
in conjunction with Randolph, Earl of Moray, he
entered England by the west marches with 1500
men, routed the English under the Archbishop of York
at the so-called Chapter of Mitton, and, eluding Edward
II., returned with honour to Scotland. When Robert
the Bruce was on his deathbed, in 1329, he sent for his
true friend and companion in arms the Good Sir James,
and requested him, that so soon as his sjiirit had
departed to Him who gave it, he should take his heart
and ' bear it in battle against the Saracens. ' Douglas
resolved to carry the request of the dying king into
execution, and for this purpose obtained a passport
from Edward III., dated 1 Sept. 1329. He set sailin
the following year w^th the heart of his honoured
master, accompanied by a splendid retinue. Having
anchored off Sluys, he was informed that Alphonso XL,
the King of Leon and Castile, was engaged in hostilities
in Grenada with the Moorish commander Osmj'n ; and
this determined him to pass into Spain, and assist the
Christians to combat the Saracens. Douglas and his
friends were warmly received by Alphonso, and encoun-
tering the iloslems at Theba, on the frontiers of Anda-
lusia, on Aug. 25, 1330, put them to rout. Douglas
eagerly followed in the pursuit, and, taking the casket
which contained the heart of Ijruce, he flung it before
him, exclaiming, ' Onward, as thou wert wont, thou
noble heart, Douglas will follow thee ! ' The Saracens
rallied, and the Good Sir James was slain. His com-
panions found his body upon the field along with the
casket, and sorrowfully bore them back to Scotland,
where the heart of the Bruce was deposited at Melrose,
though his body was interred in the royal tomb at Dun-
fermline, whilst Sir James was buried at Douglas, and
a monument erected to him by his brother Archibald.
The old poet Barbour, after reciting the circumstances
of Sir James's fall in Spain, tells how —
' Quhen his men langf had mad murnyn,
Thai debowlyt him, and syne
Gert scher him swa, that myclit be tane
The flescli all haly fra the bane,
And the carioune thar in haly place
Erdyt, « ith rycht gret worschi)), was.
The bariys liave thai with them tane
And syne ar to thair sc!iii>i)is yane
Syne towart Scotland held thair way,
And thar ar cummyn in full g-ret hy
And the bauys honorahilly
In till the kirk off Doujrlas war
Erdyt, with dull and mekill car.
Schyr Archebald has sune jrert syn
Off alaJbastre, baith fair and fyue,
Or save a tumbe sa richJy
As it bchowyt to swa worth j.'
Sir James's nephew was raised to the earldom of Douglas
in 1357 by David II.; and during this reign and the
two which succeeded the house of Douglas attained a
degree of power scarcely inferior to that of royalty itself;
365
DOUGLAS CASTLE
so that, as has been remarked by an old liistorian, it
became a saying that ' nae man was safe in the country,
unless he were either a Douglas or a Douglas man.' The
Earl went abroad with a train of 2000 men, kept a sort
of court, and even created knights. In 1424, Archibald,
the fourth Earl, became possessed of the dukedom of
Touraine, for services rendered to Charles YII. of France.
"William, the sixth Earl, a stripling not yet 15, succeeded
to the family power at a stage when it had attained a
most formidable height. Their estates in Galloway —
where they possessed the stronghold of Threave — and
those of Annaudale and Douglas, comprised two-thirds
of Scotland to the S of Edinburgh ; the people viewed
them as the champions of Scotland, especially after the
victor}' of Otterbum, and since single-handed they had
won back the border lauds ceded to England by Edward
Baliol ; lastly, through the marriage of the Good Sir
James's brother and heir with Domagilla, the Red
Comyn's sister and Baliol's niece, the Douglases could
found a most plausible claim to the Scottish tlirone, and,
but for Baliol's unpopularity, might have contested the
accession of Robert II. It was at this time, however,
the policy of Crichton — one of the ablest of those who
had the direction of affairs during the minority of James
II. — to humble the overgrown power of the nobles ; and
accordingly Earl William, having been decoyed into the
castle of Edinburgh, was subjected to a mock trial for
treason, and beheaded 24 Nov. 1440. ' This noble
youth and his brother and a few other principal friends, '
says Hume of Godscroft, 'on their arrival in Edinburgh,
went directly to the castle, being led as it were and
drawn by a fatal destiny, and so came in the power of
their deadly enemies and feigned friends. At the very
instant comes the Governor, as was before appointed
betwixt them, to play his part of the tragedy, and both
he and the chancellor might be alike embarked in the
action, and bear the envy of so ugly a fact, that the
weight thereof might not be on one alone. Yet to play
out their treacherous parts, they welcome him most
courteously, set him to dinner with the king at the
same table, feast him royally, entertain him cheerfully,
and that for a long time. At last, about the end of
dinner, they compass him about with armed men, and
cause present a bull's head before him on the board.
The bull's head was in those days a token of death, say
our histories ; but how it hath come in use to be taken
and signify, neither do they nor any else tell us ; neither
is it to be found, that I remember, anywhere in history,
save in this one place ; neither can we conjecture what
affinity it can have therewith, unless to exprobrate gross-
ness, according to the French and our own reproaching
dull and gross wits, by calling him calfs-head {tete
de veau) but not bull's head. The young nobleman,
either understanding the sign as an ordinary thing, or
astonished with it as an uncouth thing, upon the sight
of the bull's head, offering to rise, was laid hold of by
their armed men, in the king's presence, at the king's
table, which should have been a sanctuary to him. And
so without regard of king, or any duty, and mthont any
further process, without order, assize, or jury, ^vithout
law, no crime objected, he not being convicted at all, a
young man of that age, that was not liable to the law in
reganl of his youth, a nobleman of that place, a worthy
young gentleman of such expectation, a guest of that
acceptation, one who had reposed upon their credit, who
had committed himself to them, a friend in mind, who
looked for friendship, to whom all friendship was pro-
mised, against duty, law, friendship, faith, honesty,
humanity, hospitality, against nature, against human
society, against God's law, against man's law, and the
law of nature, is cruelly executed and put to death.
David Douglas, his younger brother, was also put to
death with him, and Malcolm Fleming of Cumbernauld ;
they were all three beheaded in the back court of the
castle that lieth to the west.'
' When E^rl Douplas to the Castle came
The courts they were fu" Krim to see ;
And he liked na the feast aa they sat at dine,
The tables were gerved sac oilenUie.
866
DOUGLAS CASTLE
' And full twenty feet fro the table he sprang
When the grislj' bull's head rnet his e'e.
But the Crichtouns a" cam' troupin in,
An' he coudna fight an' wadna flie.
' O, when the news to Hermitage came,
The Douglasses were brim and wud ;
They swore to set Embro' in a bleeze,
An' slochen't wi' auld Crichtouu's blood.'
The dukedom of Touraine reverted to the French king ;
but, after three years of depressed fortune, the Douglases
rose to a greater degree of power than ever in the
person of "William, the eighth Earl, who, professing to
be in favour with the young king, James II. , appointed
himself Lieutenant-General of the kingdom. Having
fallen, however, into partial disgrace, he went abroad
(1450), and his castle of Douglas was demolished during
his a'bsence by order of the king, on account of his
vassals' insolence. On the return of the Earl, he made
submission to the king, a submission never meant to be
sincere. He sought to assassinate Crichton the chancel-
lor, hanged Herries of Terregles in despite of the king's
mandate to the contrary, and in obedience to a royal
warrant delivered up the Tutor of Bombie — headless.
By leaguing, moreover, with the Earls of Crawford and
Ross, he united against his sovereign almost one-half of
the kingdom. But his credulity led him into the selfsame
snare that had proved fatal to the former Earl. Relying
on the promise of the king, who had now attained to the
years of manhood, and having obtained a safe-conduct
under the great seal, he ventured to meet him in Stirling
Castle, 13 Jan. 1452. James urged him to dissolve the
Bands, the Earl refused. 'If you will not,' said the en-
raged monarch, drawing his dagger, ' then this shall ! '
and stabbed him to the heart. 1 he Earl's four brothers
and vassals ran to arms with the utmost furj' ; and,
dragging the safe-conduct, which the king had gi'anted
and \'iolated, at a horse's tail, they marched to Stirling,
burned the town, and threatened to besiege the castle.
An accommodation ensued, on what terms is not known ;
but the king's jealousy, and the new Earl's power and
resentment, prevented its long continuance. Both
took the field, and met near Abercorn (1454), at
the head of their armies. That of the Earl, composed
chiefly of Borderers, was far superior to the king's,
in both numbers and valour ; and a single battle must
in all probability have decided whether the house of
Stewart or the house of Douglas was henceforth to sit
upon the throne of Scotland. But while his troops im-
patiently expected the signal to engage, the Earl ordered
them to retire to their camp ; and Sir James Hamilton
of Cadzow, in whom he placed the greatest confidence,
convinced of his lack of genius to improve an oppor-
tunity, or of his want of courage to seize a crown,
deserted him that very night. This example was fol-
lowed b}' manj' ; and the Earl, despised or forsaken by
all, was soon driven out of the kingdom, and obliged to
depend for his subsistence on the King of England.
The overgrown strength of this family was destroyed in
1455 ; and the Earl, after enduring many vicissitudes,
retired in his old age to Lindores Abbey in Fife, and
died there in 1488.
Tlie title of Earl of Douglas, of this the first branch
of the family, existed for 98 years, giving an average of
11 years to each possessor. The lands of the family
reverted to the Crown, but shortly afterwards were
bestowed on the Earl of Angus, the head of a younger
branch of the old family, descended from George Dou-
glas, the only son of William, first Earl of Douglas, by
his third Avife, Margaret, Countess of Angus, who in
1389, on his mother's resignation of her right, received
her title. This family assisted in the destruction of the
parent-house ; and it became a saying, in allusion to
the complexion of the two races, that the red Douglas
had put down the black. Among its members were
several who figured prominently in Scottish story,
such as Archibald, fifth Earl, known by the soulriquct
of 'Bell-the-Cat ;' and Archibald, sixtli Earl, who, marry-
ing Margaret of England, widow of James IV., was
grandfather of the unfortunate Henry Lord Darnley,
the husband of Queen JIary and father of James VI.
DOUGLAS CASTLE
DOULAS
This Archibald, during the minority of his step-son
James V. , had all the authority of a regent. William,
eleventh Earl of Angus, was raised to the marquisate of
Douglas, in 1633, by Charles L This nobleman was a
Catholic and a royalist, and inclined to hold out his
castle against the Covenanters, in favour of the king ;
but he was surprised by them, and the castle taken
(1639). He was one of the best of the family, and kept
up to its fullest extent the olden princely Scottish hospi-
tality. The king constituted him his lieutenant on the
Borders, and he joined Montrose after his victory at
Kilsyth (1645), escaped from the rout at the battle of
Philiphaugh, and soon after made terms with the ruling
powers. The first Jlarquis of Douglas was the father
of three peers of different titles — Archibald, his eldest
son, who succeeded him as second Marquis ; William,
his eldest son by a second marriage, who became third
Duke of Hamilton ; and George, his second son, by the
same marriage, who was created Earl of Dumbarton.
Archibald, tliird Marquis, succeeded in 1700, and was
created Duke of Douglas in 1703. In the '15 he adhered
to the ruling family of Hanover, and fought as a volun-
teer in the battle of Sheriffmuir. He died childless at
Queensberry House, Edinburgh, in 1761, when the ducal
title became extinct, the Marquisate of Douglas devolv-
ing on the Duke of Hamilton, on account of his descent
from the first Marquis. The real and personal estate
of the Duke of Douglas was inherited by his nephew,
Archibald Stewart, Esq. , who assumed the surname of
Douglas, and in 1790 was created Baron Douglas of
Douglas — a title re-granted in 1875 to the eleventh Earl
of Home (1799-18S1), who had married the grand-
daughter of the above-named Archibald Stewart, and
now borne by his son and successor, Chs. Alex. Douglas
Home (b. 1834), the present Earl, who holds in Lanark-
shire 61,943 acres, valued at £24,764 per annum, besides
a large and increasing revenue from minerals. (See also
BoTHWELL and The Hirsel.)
Such are some of the memories of this time-worn
ruin, interesting also as the 'Castle Dangerous' of Sir
Walter Scott's last romance, and the last place to which
he made a pilgrimage in Scotland, His preface, trans-
mitted from Naples in 1832, contains the following
passage : — ' The author, before he had made much pro-
gress in this, probably the last of his novels, undertook
a jom-ney to Douglasdale, for the purpose of examining
the remains of the famous castle, the Kirk of St Bride of
Douglas, the patron-saint of that great family, and the
various localities alluded to by Godscroft, in his account
of the early adventures of Good Sir James. But though
he was fortunate enough to find a zealous and well-
infarmed cicerone in Mr Thomas Haddow, and had
every assistance from the kindness of Mr Alexander
Finlay, the resident chamberlain of his friend Lord
Douglas, the state of his health at the time was so feeble
that he found himself incapable of pursuing his re-
searches, as in better days he would have delighted to
do, and was obliged to be contented with such a cursory
view of scenes, in themselves most interesting, as could
be snatched in a single morning, when any bodily
exertion was painful. Mr Haddow was attentive enough
to forward subsequently some notes on the points which
the author had seemed desirous of investigating ; but
these did not reach him until, being obliged to prepare
matters for a foreign excursion in quest of health and
strength, he had been compelled to bring his work, such
as it is, to a conclusion. The remains of the old castle
of Douglas are inconsiderable. They consist, indeed, of
but one ruined tower, standing at a short distance from
the modem mansion, which itself is only one wing of
the design on which the Duke of»Douglas meant to
reconstruct the edifice, after its last accidental destruc-
tion by fire. His grace had kept in view the ancient
prophecy that, as often as Douglas Castle might be
destroyed it should rise again in enlarged dimensions
and improved splendour, and projected a pile of build-
ing, which, if it had been completed, would have much
exceeded any nobleman's residence then existing in
Scotland ; as, indeed, what has been finished, amounting
to about one-eighth of the plan, is sufficiently extensive
for the accommodation of a large establishment, and
contains some apartments the extent of which is mag-
nificent. The situation is commanding ; and though
the Duke's successors have allowed the mansion to
continue as he left it, great expense has been lavished
on the environs, which now present a vast sweep of
riclily undulated woodland when viewed from the
Cairntable mountains, repeatedly mentioned as the
favourite retreat of the great ancestor of the family in
the days of his hardships and persecution.' See David
Hume of Godscroft, History of the House and Puice of
Douglas and Angus (1644 ; new ed. by Ruddiman, 2
vols. 1743).
Douglasdale. See Douglas Water.
Douglas-Mill, a quondam inn (well known in old
coaching days) in Douglas parish, Lanarkshire, 2^ miles
NE of Douglas town. Coleridge and Wordsworth and
his sister Dorothy dined here 20 Aug. 1803.
Douglas-Park, an estate, with a mansion, in Bothwell
parish, Lanarkshire, on the right bank of South Calder
Water, If mile E of Bothwell village.
Douglastown, a village in Kinnettles parish, Forfar-
shire, on the right bank of Arity Water, at the western
verge of the parish, 3J miles SW of Forfar, under which
it has a post office. At it stand the handsome new
parish school and a large flax-spinning mill, founded,
like the village, in 1792.
Douglas Water, a burn of Arrochar and Luss parishes,
Dumbartonshire, formed by two head-streams, within f
mile of Loch Long, and running 4| mUes east-by-south-
ward, chiefly along the mutual boundary of the two
parishes, to Loch Lomond at Inveruglas, opposite
Rowardennan. Its basin is a grand glen, flanked on the
N side by Tullich Hill (2075 feet), Ben Vreac (2233),
and Stob Gobhlach (1413), and on the S by Doune Hill
(2409), Mid Hill (2149), and Ben Dubh (2106).— Or(«.
Sur., sh. 38, 1871.
Douglas Water, a burn in Inverary parish, Argyll-
shire, issuing from Loch Dubh-ghlas (4 x § furl. ; 1050
feet), and curving 6 J miles eastward to Loch Fyne, at a
point 2f miles SSW of Inverary town. It contains
salmon, sea-trout, and yellow trout. A section of rock
in its channel, 100 feet high, shows alternate strata of
mica slate and limestone. — Ord. Sur., sh. 37, 1876.
Douglas Water, a stream of SW Lanarkshire, rising,
1500 feet above sea-level, between Cairntable (1944 feet)
and Little Cairntable (1693), at the SW corner of
Douglas parish, within a furlong of the Ayrshire border.
Thence it winds 16^ miles north-eastward through
Douglas parish, and 3| miles north-north-eastward along
the mutual boundary of Carmichael and Lesmahagow
parishes, till, after a total descent of fully 900 feet, it
falls into the Clyde at a point nearly 1| mile above
Bonnington Linn, and 2f miles SSE of Lanark. It
receives, on its left bank, Monks and Poniel Waters, and,
on its right bank, Kennox AVater and Glespin, Parkhall,
Craig, Ponfeigh, Shiels, and Drumalbin Burns ; con-
tains good store of trout ; and gives the name of Douglas-
dale to its basin or valley, which, comprising nearly all
Douglas parish and considerable portions of Carmichael
and Lesmahagow, is so overhung by a conspicuous part
of a great range of watershed catching the rain clouds
from the S and AV, as to render the volume of the
Douglas nearly equal to that of the Clyde at the point
of confluence, and has such a configuration as to impart
some peculiarity to the climate. ' The district,' says
the New Statist, ' is exposed to high winds, particularly
from the SW and W, which, being confined as in a
funnel by the high grounds on each side, sweep down
the strath with tremendous violence.' — Ord. Sur., shs.
15, 23, 1864-65.
Doulas or Dulaich, a loch in Lairg parish, S Suther-
land, 2i miles NE of Lairg village. L3-ing 480 feet
above sea-level, it measures 3 by 14 furlongs, sends off a
rivulet to Loch Shin at Lairg village, and itself receives
one, running f mile eastward from Loch Craggie, like
which it abounds in very fine trout, running about ^ lb,
each.— Ord. Sur., sh. 102, 1881. 357
DOULE
Doule, a lake in Strathcarron, Ross-shire, adjacent to
the Dingwall and Skye railway, 6 miles NE of the head
of Loch Carron. It it an expansion of the river Carron,
measures about 2 miles in length, contains three islands,
and is well stocked with trout.
Douloch or Dubh Loch, a lake in Inverary parish,
Argyllshire, at the foot of Glen Shira, 2 miles NE of
Inverary town. An expansion of the Sliira rivulet,
measuring | mile by 1^ furlong, it lies only 25 feet above
the level of Loch Fyne, extends to within 5 furlongs of
the Shira's mouth, and in spring-tides receives some
small portion of Loch Fyne's sea-water. It yields trout
and salmon, sometimes in the same net with herrings
and other sea fish ; and takes the name of Douloch,
signifying ' the black lake,' from the sombreness and
depth of its waters. A baronial fortalice of the Lairds
of ilacnaughton stood on its southern shore, and is
now a ruin. — Ord. Sur., sh. 37, 1S76.
Doune or Dun of Creich. See Cueicii, Sutherland.
Doune, a modern mansion, in the Rothiemurchus por-
tion of Duthil parish, E Inverness-shire, on the left bank
of the Spey, 2J miles SSW of Aviemore station. Its
owner. Sir John Peter Grant of Rothiemurchus, K.C. B. ,
G.C.M.G. (b. 1S07 ; sue. 1S4S), was Lieut. -Governor of
Bengal 1859-62, and Governor of Jamaica 1866-73 ; he
holds 24,457 acres in the shii'c, valued at £2291 per
annum.
Doune, an oval, flat-topped mound in Strathdon
parish, W Aberdeenshire, at the W side of the Water of
Nochty, just above its influx to the Don. Mainly (it
would seem) of drift or diluvial formation, artificially
altered and fortified, it was surrounded by a moat 26
feet wide and 16 deep, and measures 970 feet in circum-
ference at the base, 60 in vertical height, and 562 in
circumference at the top, which, about half an acre in
area, shows foundations of buildings. According to
vague tradition, it was the site of Invernochty church.
Doune, a mountain in Luss parish, Dumbartonshire,
at the head of Glenmallochan, 5| miles NW by W of
Luss village. It has an altitude of 2409 feet above sea-
level.
Doune or Down Law, a hill (663 feet) in the SW of
Roxburgh parish, Roxburghshire, adjoining Peniel
Heugh in Crailing.
Doune (Gael, 'the hill'), a village in Kilmadock
parish, S Perthshire, with a station on the Dunblane
and Callander section of the Caledonian, 78 miles ESE
of Oban, 7i SE of Callander, 3| W by N of Dunblane,
8| NW of Stirling, 45 NW of Edinburgh, and 38^ NNE
of Glasgow. It stands near the left bank of the swil't
river Teith, which here receives Ardoch Burn, and here
is spanned by a noble two-arched bridge, founded in
1535 by Robert Spittal, tailor to the Jlost Noble Princess
Margaret, the Queen of James IV. , and widened 3 feet
in 1866. The village of Bridge of Teith adjoins it, and
on the opposite side of the river, 1 mile to the W, stands
that of Deax.stox ; whilst just to the S frown the hoary
ruins of Doune Castle, and behind rise the heathery
Braes of Doune, which culminate in Uamh Bheag (2179
feet), 62 miles to the NW. Itself, Doune mainly con-
sists of a larger and two smaller well-built streets,
radiating from an old central market-cross ; and has a
post office, with money order, savings' bank, and tele-
graph departments, branches of the Royal and Union
Banks, 5 insurance agencies, an hotel and 2 inns, a gas
company, a public library, a volunteer corps, curling
and bowling clubs, a masonic lodge (1789), a Free Gar-
deners' lodge (1819), and a horticultural institution
(1837). Thursday is market-day ; and fairs are held on
the second Wednesday of Jlay, the last Wednesday of
July (hiring), the Tuesday before the first Wednesday of
November (sheep), the first AVcdnesday of November
(cattle and horses), and the fourth Wednesday of No-
vember (sheep and cattle), four of these fairs having
been authorised by Act of Parliament in 1665. Once
famous for its manufacture of Highland pistols and
sporans, Doune now depends chiefly upon Deanston
cotton-mill, started in 1785. Places of worship are the
parish church (1822; 1151 sittings^ a Gothic edifice,
368
DOUNREAY
with handsome tower and beautiful pulpit ; a Free
church ; a U. P. church at Bridge of Teith, of which Dr
John M'Kerrow, historian of the Secession, was minister
from 1813 till his death in 1867 ; the Roman Catliolic
church of SS. Fillan and Alphonsus-(1875 ; 300 sittings);
and St ]\Iodoc's Episcopal church (1878 ; 120 sittings),
which. Early English in style, consists of a four-bayed
nave barrel-vaulted in oak, a three-bayed chancel groined
in stone, a N organ transept, and a N sacristy, with
beautiful stained-glass E and W windows and wooden
triptych reredos. A public and an infant school, with
respective accommodation for 131 and 94 children, had
(1880) an average attendance of 56 and 42, and grants
of £48, 14s. and £28. The superior of the village is the
Earl of Moray, whose Perthshire seat is Doune Lodge.
Pop. (1841) 1559, (1851) 1459, (1861) 1256, (1871)1262,
(1881) 997.— Or(?. Sur., sh. 39, 1869.
Doune Castle, a stately baronial stronghold, at the
SE end of Doune village, on the steep, woody, green-
sward peninsula, formed by the river Teith and Ardoch
Burn. Roofless and ruinous, though still a majestic
pile, it has been said to date from the 11th century, but
probably was either founded or enlarged by Murdoch
Stewart, second Duke of Albanj-, and Governor of Scot-
land from 1419 to 1424. At his execution (25 May
1425) on the heading-hiU of Stirling, it went to the
Crown, and, given by James IV. to Margaret, his queen,
passed in 1525 to her third husband, Henry Stewart, a
lineal descendant of the first Duke of Albany. To his
brother. Sir James, the custody of it was afterwards
granted by James V. ; and Ms son and namesake, created
Lord Doune in 1581, coming into full possession, trans-
mitted the same to his posterity, the Earls of Moray.
From time to time a residence of royalty, including of
course Queen Mary, it was garrisoned in the '45 for Prince
Charles Edward by a nejiliew of the celebrated Rob Roy,
and then was mounted with a twelve-pounder and
several swivels. Scott brings his hero 'Waverley'
within its walls ; and it was really the six days' prison
of Home, the author of Douglas, who, with five fellow-
captives from the field of Falkirk, escaped by means of
a blanket-twisted rope. This noble specimen of Scottish
baronial architecture measures 96 feet each way, and,
with w^alls 10 feet in thickness and 40 in height, com-
prises a massive north-eastern keep-tower, which, 80
feet high, commands a most lovely view ; within are
the court-yard, guardhouse, kitchen, great hall (63 by
25 feet), the I3aron's Hall, and Queen Mary's Room.
' The mass of buildings,' says Dr Hill Burton, 'forms
altogether a compact quadrangle, the towers and curtains
serving as the extensive fortifications, and embracing a
court-yard nearly surrounded by the buildings. The
bastioned square tower of the 15th century is the ruling
feature of the place ; but the edifice is of various ages,
and includes round staircase towers and remains of
the angular turrets of the beginning of the 17th cen-
tury. Winding stairs, long ranging corridors and
passages, and an abundance of mysterious vaults, strong,
deep, and gloomy, reward the investigator who has leisure
enough to pass an hour or two within its hoary walls ;
but, as we generally find in the old Scottish baronial
edifices, there are few decorative features, and immense
strength has been the great aim of each builder.' See
Billings' Baronial Antiquities (1852).
Doune Lodge, a mansion in Kilmadock parish, Perth-
shire, li mile NW of Doune village. Till some time
into the present century it bore the name of Cambus-
wallace, and as such is remembered as the house where,
on 13 Sept. 1745, Prince Charlie ' prce'd the mou' of
Jliss Robina Edmondstone. From the Edmondstones
it has come to the Earls of Moray, the tenth of whom,
about 1852, did much to improve the estate, building
new lodges and extensive oflices, crowned by a conspi-
cuous steeple ; and George Stuart, present and thirteenth
Earl (b. 1814 ; sue. 1872), holds 40,553 acres in the shire,
valued at £10,800 per annum. (See Mokav, DoNl-
BUisrr.E, Dauxaway, and CASTLE-SruAnr. )
Dounies. See Doavnies.
Dounreay. See Reav.
DOUR
DRAINIE
Dour, a burn in Abenlour parish, Aberdeenshire, run-
ning Sg miles north-by-eastward to the Moray Firth at
a point 1 mile N of New Aberdour village.
Doura, a village in Kilwinning parish, Ayrshire,
Z][ miles ESE of the town. Extensive coal-works are
in its vicinity, and are connected with the Ardrossan
branch of the Glasgow and South-Western railway by
a single-line railroad.
Dourie, a burn of ^larjdcirk parish, Kincardineshire,
formed, 5 furlongs SE of Fettercairn village, by Balna-
kettle, Crichie, and Garrol Burns, and thence running
3^ miles south-south-eastward along the Fettercairn
border and through the interior, till, 9 furlongs NNW
of Marykirk station, it falls into Luther AVater. — Ord.
Sur., shs. 66, 57, 1871-68.
Dovan. See Devon.
Dovecothall, a village on the S border of Abbey
parish, Renfrewshire, on the river Levern, conjoint
with Barrhead. It contains the oldest of the cotton
mills in the Barrhead district, and shares largely in the
bleachfield and print field business of Barrhead.
Dovecotwood. See Kilsyth.
Dovehill, one of the Barrhead villages in Renfrew-
shire.
Doveran. See Deveron.
Dovesland, a suburb in Abbey parish, Renfrewshire,
on the S side of Paisley. It forms part of Charleston
district, was mainly built after the year 1830, and has a
large population, chiefly weavers.
Dow. See Glendow.
Dowal. See Doule.
Dowally, a village in the united parish of Dunkeld
AND Dowally, central Perthshire, 5 furlongs SSE of
Guay station on the Highland railway, this being 55
miles NNW of Dnnkeld station. It stands on the left
bank of the Tay, which here is joined by Dowally Burn,
and, J mile higher up, is spanned by Dalguise viaduct.
Dowally Burn issues from Lochan Oisinneach Bheag
(l^xf furl.) in Logierait parish, and runs 7^ miles
south-south-westward, traversing Lochan Oisinneach
Mhor (4 X 2J furl. ) and Loch Ordie (5x3^ furl. ), whilst
receiving a streamlet that runs J mile north-westward
from Dowally Loch (If x f furl.). At the village are a
public school and an Established church (1818 ; 220
sittings), which retains the old jougs of the church of St
Anne, built here by Bishop George Brown of Dunkeld
in 1500, when Dowally, till then a chapelry of Caputh,
was constituted a separate parish. It now is united to
Dunkeld, but stands so far distinct, that it is a Gaelic,
while Dunkeld is an English, district. Pop. of Dowally
registration division (1861) 486, (1871) 461, (1881) 431.
—Ord. Sur., sh. 55, 1869.
Dowalton Loch, a former lake on the mutual border of
Sorbie, Kirkinner, and Glasserton parishes, SE Wig-
townshire, 6 miles SSW of Wigtown. With a length of
1| mile from WSW to ENE, a varying breadth of 1 and
5;| furlongs, and a depth of from 6 to 20 feet, it covered
212 acres, but was entirely drained in 1862-63 by its
three proprietors Sir W. Maxwell of Monreith, Vans
Agnew, and Lord Stair, its bottom now forming excel-
lent meadow-land. Of its eight little islets two near
the north-western or Kirkinner shore were then dis-
covered to bo artificial crannoges or pile-built lake-
dwellings. These yielded bones of the ox, pig, and
deer, bronze vessels (one of them of Roman workman-
ship), iron axe and hammer heads, glass and amber
beads, and part of a leather shoe, with finely-stamped
pattern, twenty-six of which relics are now in the
Edinburgh Antiquarian Museum ; and in the neighbour-
ing waters of the loch five canoes were found, from 21 to
26 feet long. On the shore of a western inlet stood
Longcastle, the ancient keep of the M'Doualls, from
whom the loch got its name ; its site is now marked by
fragments of crumbling wall. — Onf. Sur., sh. 4, 1857.
See Dr John Stuart's 'Notices of a Group of Artificial
Islands in the Loch of Dowalton ' in vol. vi. of Procs.
Soc. Ants. Scotl., and pp. 45-47 of Wm. M'llraith's
JFifffjjicmhire {-Zd cd. , Dumf. , 1877).
Dowie Dens. See Yarkow.
21
Dowloch. See Doulocji.
Down. See Doune.
Downan, a quondam ancient chapelry in Glenlivct,
Inveraven parish, Banlf'shire, near the Livet's confluence
with the Avon. A bridge over the Livet at Upper
Downan being almost entirely destroyed by the flood of
1829, a new one, on a better site lower down the stream,
was built in 1835.
Downans. See Castle-Donnan,
Downess. See Downies.
Downfield, a village, with a public school, in Mains
and Strathmartin parish, Forfarshire, 2 miles N by W
of Dundee, under which it has a post ofiice, with money
order and savings' bank departments.
Downie. See Cambustane.
Downie Park, an estate, with an elegant modern man-
sion, in Tannadicc parish, Forfarshire, on the left bank
of the South Esk, 1 mile SE of Cortachy Castle, like
which it belongs to the Earl of Airlie.
Downies, a fishing hamlet, with a small harbour, in
the extreme SE of Banchory-Devenick parish, Kincar-
dineshire, 1 mile S by E of Portlethen station.
Downreay. See Reay.
Dow- Well. See Innerleithen.
Draffan Castle. See Dunixo.
Dragon-Hole, a cave in the rocky face of Kinnoull
Hill, near the mutual boimdary of Kinnoull and Kin-
fauns parishes, Perthshire. It is diflScult of access ; has
capacity for about twelve men ; is traditionally said to
have been a hiding-place of Sir William Wallace ; and,
till after the era of the Reformation, was a scene of
superstitious observances.
Drainie, a coast parish of Elginshire, comprising the
ancient parishes of Kinneddar and Ogstoun, and contain-
ing the villages of Branderburgh and Stotfield, and
the post-town and station of Lossiemouth, 5| miles N
by E of Elgin. It is bounded N by the Moray Firth,
NE and E by Urquhart, SE by St Andrews-Lhanbryd,
S by Spynie, and SW by Duifus. Its length, from E
to W, varies between 3:^ and 4§ miles ; its utmost
breadth, from N to S, is 3g miles ; and its area is 7254J
acres, of which 273| are foreshore and 16J water.
The coast-line, 5 miles long, is partly low and flat,
partly an intricate series of cavernous rocks, noticed
under Covesea. On the Dufl"us border, J mile inland,
the surface attains 241 feet above sea-level, at Covesea
195, near Lossiemouth 124 ; but to the S it every-
where is low and flat, ranging between 43 feet at the
parish church and only 9 at Watery Mains. The river
Lossie curves 2^ miles northward, north-westward, and
north-eastward, along all the Urquhart border, and just
above its mouth receives the Spynie Canal, bending 3^
miles northward from the former bed of Loch Spynie,
which, lying upon the southern boundary, was origin-
ally aliout 3 miles long and 1 mile broad, but by drainage
operations, carried out about 1807, and again in 1860-70,
has been reduced to a sheet of water in St Andrews-
Lhanbryd parish of only 5 by 1^ furlongs. Low tracts
along the Lossie were formerly subject to inundation,
and suffered much damage from the flood of 1829, but
now are protected by embankments. A white and
yellow sandstone quarried here is in great request, both
for local building and for exportation ; and a vein of
limestone lies between Lossiemouth and Stotfield, where
surface lead ore also has thrice been the object of fruit-
less operations — during last century, in 1853, and in
1879-81. The soil is so various that scarcely 20 acres
of any one same quality can be found together, and it
often passes with sudden transition from good to bad.
Rich loam or marly clay lies on the low drained fields,
elsewhere is mostly a lighter soil, incumbent on gravel
or on pure white sand ; and about a square mile of thin
heathy earth, in the middle of the parish, having
resisted every effort to render it arable, was at last con-
verted into a small pine forest. Kinneddar Castle, a
strong occasional residence of the P.ishops of Moray,
stood by Kinneddar churchyard, whilst the first church
of Drainie (1673) exists still in a state of ruin. Gerar-
dine's Cave or Iloly-JIauhcad, near Lossiemouth, was
369
DRAKEMYEE
probably the abode of a liermit, and, measuring 12
feet square, had a Gothic doorway and -window, which
commanded a long view of the eastern coast, but in the
course of working the quarries it was totally destroyed.
GouDONSTOAVN is the only mansion ; and 2 proprietors
hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 2 of
between £100 and £500, 4 of from £50 to £100, and 30
of from £20 to £50. Drainie is in the presbytery of
Elgin and svnod of iloray ; the living is worth £327.
The parish cliurch, 2| miles SW of Lossiemouth, was
built in 1S23, and contains 700 sittings. A chapel of
ease and a Free church are at Lossiemouth ; U. P. and
Baptist churches at Brandcnburgh ; and three public
schools— Drainie, Kinneddar, and Lossiemouth— with
respective accommodation for 85, 246, and 400 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 61, 199, and 293,
and grants of £41, 6s., £133, 15s., and £253, 16s. 6d.
Valuation (1860) £7565, (1881) £12,099, 19s. Pop.
(1801) 1057, (1831) 1206, (1861) 3028, (1871) 3293, (1881)
•39SS.—Onl. Sur., sh. 95, 1876.
Drakemyre, a village in Dairy parish, Ayrshire,
i mile N of Dairy town. Pop. (1831) 126, (1861) 426,
("1871) 536, (1881) 325.
Dreel, a burn in the East Neuk of Fife, rising in the
NWof Carnbee parish, at an altitude of 580 feet above
sea-level, and running 6 miles southward, south-eastward,
and eastward, through Carnbee and along the boundary
between Abercromby and Pittenweem on the right, and
Carnbee, Anstruther-"\Vester, and Anstruther-Easter on
the left, till it falls into the Firth of Forth at Austruther
old harbour.
Dreghom, a village and a parish on the southern
border of Cunninghame district, Ayrshire. The village,
standing 3 furlongs from the right bank of the river
Irvine, is 2^ miles ESE of Irvine and 5 W of KUmarnock,
having a station on the branch of the Glasgow and
South-Western between those towns ; at it is a post
office, with money order, savings' bank, and railway
telegraph departments. It^chiefly consists of irregular
lines of whitewashed houses, interspersed with trees,
and, occupying a gentle acclivity above adjacent flats,
commands a fine view of the waters and screens of the
Firth of Clyde. Pop. (1861) 901, (1871) 821, (1881)
936.
The parish comprises the ancient parishes of Dregliorn
and Perceton, united in 1668, and contains the greater
part of Pjankhead and Perceton villages. It is bounded
NW and N by Stewarton, E by Fenwick, SE by Kil-
maurs, S by Dundonald, and W by Irvine. Its utmost
length, from NE to SW, is 6 miles ; its breadth, from
KW to SE, varies between ^ mile and 2§ miles ; and its
area is 5661§ acres, of which 36 are water. The river
luviNE glides 2§ miles westward along all the southern
border ; Carrier Burn, running 6^ miles south-westwai'd
to Carmel Water, and Cakmel Water, running 4^ fur-
longs westward to the Irvine, trace nearly all the
boundary with Kilmaurs ; whilst Annick Water,
another of the Irvine's affluents, winds lOi miles south-
westward on or near to all the boundary with Stewarton
and Irvine. Sinking at the south-western corner of tlie
parish to 30 feet above sea-level, the surface thence
rises gently north-westward to 97 feet beyond Dregliorn
village, 150 near Warwickdale, 226 near Albonhead,
and 258 near Whiterig. The rocks are mainly carboni-
ferous. Coal is largely worked, and ironstone, lime-
stone, and sandstone abound. The soil, in the SAV
ranging from loam to gravel, is elsewhere mostly a deej)
rich loam ; and all the land, excepting some acres of
wood and meadow, is under cultivation. Thougli now
much subdivided, the entire parish belonged in
the 12th century to the De Morvilles, lord high
constables of Scotland, from whom it passed in
1196 to Roland, Lord of Galloway. Mansions are
Annick Lodge, Cunningiiamiikad, Perceton, Spiiing-
8IUE, and Warwickliill ; and 9 proprietors hold
each an annual value of £500 am! ui)wards, 9 of
between £100 and £500, 3 of from £50 to £100, and 14
of from £20 to £50. In the jires))ytery of Irvine and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr, Dregliorn gives oil' about
370
DBIMNIN
450 acres, with 350 inhabitants, to the quoad sacra
parish of CiiossiiousE ; the living is worth £448. The
parish church (1780 ; reseated 1876 for 500) stands
at the village, where also are a Free Chiu'ch mis-
sion station and an Evangelical Union chapel ; and
Dregliorn Free church is at Perceton village. Three pub-
lic schools — Crossroads, Dregliorn, and Springside — with
respective accommodation for 100, 300, and 300 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 34, 248, and 234,
and grants of £32, 4s. , £237, 8s. , and £200, 15s. A'alua-
tion (1860) £18,915, (1882) £22,679, 9s., plus £3243 for
railways. Pop. (1801) 797, (1831) 888, (1841) 1222,
(1861) 3283, (1871) 3241, (1881) 3949.— Orc^. Sur., sh.
22, 1865.
Dreghom Castle, a 17th century mansion, twice en-
larged within the last 80 years, in Colintou parish,
Edinburghshire, at the northern base of the Pentlands,
I mile SE of Colinton village. Tlie estate, whence John
Slaclaurin (1734-96) assumed the title of Lord Dreghorn
on his elevation to the bench, belonged in 1671 to Sir
William ilurray, Master of Works to Charles II., and
in 1720 to the Homes, whose tutor, the poet David
Mallet, here wrote the famous ballad of William and
Margaret. Afterwards it passed to the Trotters, and
now is owned by Robert Andrew Macfie, Es(i. , who, born
in 1811, was member for Leith from 1S6S to 1874, and
who holds 968 acres in the shire, valued at £2136 per
annum. In Sept. 1881 Dreghorn Castle was honoured
by a visit from Kalakaua, King of the Hawaiian
Islands.
Drem, a village and a barony in Athelstaneford parish,
Haddingtonshire, i^ miles N by W of Haddington.
The village stands on the North British railway at the
junction of the branch to North Berwick, being 4| miles
SSW of that town, and 17i E by N of Edinburgh ; at
it is a j)ost office, with money order, savings' bank, and
telegraph departments. The barony, comprising more
than 800 acres of fine land, belonged once to the Knights
Templars, and is now the property of the Earl of Hope-
toun. A small Roman station seems to have been on
it, and ^ mile distant therefrom was a Caledonian or
Romano-British town, which appears to have been
strongly fortified, and has left distinct traces on the
cro\\Ti of a conical eminence to the extent of about 2
acres. The priest's house of the Knights Templars' esta-
blishment is still standing, as also are a holly hedge that
fenced the priest's garden and the greater part of a little
chapel, served by the priest ; but the grave3'ard attached
to the chapel lias been converted into a fruitful garden.
About 100 yards from the old chapel a very perfect
specimen was discovered in Aj^ril 1882 of an ancient
sepulchre, formed of six red .sandstone flags, and contain-
ing a skull and a clay urn.
Drhuim. See DiiituiM.
Drimachtor. See Duumociitek.
Drimadoon, a small bay on the SW side of the Isle
of Arrau, liuteshire, opening from Kilbrannan Sound,
nearly opposite Saddel Castle. It is a mere encurvature,
measuring 2 miles along the chord, and 4J furlongs
thence to its inmost recess ; receives the Black Water ;
and is flanked on the N side by Drimadoon Point, sur-
mounted by remains of an extensive doon or fort and by
a standing stone.
Drunarbane, a village in Kilmallie parish, Inverness-
shire, on the E shore of lower Loch Eil, 2^ miles SW of
Fort William.
Drimmashie. See Dhummossie.
Drimmie, an estate in the W of Longforgan parish,
SE rertlisliire. The mansion on it was the residence
of tlie Kinnaird family after the destruction of ]\Ioncur
Castle by fire in the beginning of last century ; but it
was taken down about the year 1830. The Snabs of
Drimmie (177 feet) are an abrupt termination of a beauti-
ful bank, extending north-westward from the bold rocky
point of Kingoodie ; and tliey command a fine view of
the Carse of Gowrie.
Drimmieburn. See Per-sie.
Drimnin, an estate, with a mansion, in Morvern
parish, Argyllshire, on the Sound of Mull, opposite
DRIMSYNIE
Tobermory, 12J miles NW of ]\Ioi'vern hamlet. Its
owner, Joseph Clement Gordon, Esq. (b. 1838 ; sue.
1845), holds 7422 acres in the shire, valued at £853 per
annum. St Columba's Roman Catholic church here,
with 80 sittings, was built in 1833 by the late Sir
Charles Gordon of Drimnin ; and, overlooking the Sound,
occupies the site of an old castle, of no great import-
ance, which was demolished to give place to the church.
Drimsjmie, an estate, with a mansion, in Lochgoil-
head parish, Argjdlshire. The mansion stands in the
mouth of a romantic ravine, ^ mile W of Lochgoilhead
village, and has finely wooded grounds.
DrimyeonlDeg, a bay (7x6 furl.) on the E side of
Gigha island, Argyllshire, to the N of Ardminish Point.
It is capacious enough for local trade, and has good
anchoring ground.
Drochil Castle, a ruin in Newlands parish, Peebles-
shire, on the brow of a rising-ground between the
confluent Tarth and Lyne Waters, 7 miles WNW of
Peebles. A noble pile, mantled in ivy and crusted with
yellow lichens, its basement story converted into byres,
it was, says Pennicuik, ' designed for a palace more
than a castle of defence, and is of mighty bulk ; founded,
and more than half built, but never finished, by the
then great and powerful Regent, James Douglas, Earl of
Morton. Upon the front of the S entry of this castle
was J.E.O.M., James, Earl of Morton, in raised letters,
with the fetter-lock, as "Warden of the Borders. This
mighty Earl, for the pleasure of the place, and the
salubrity of the air, designed here a noble recess and
retirement from worldly business ; but was prevented by
his unfortunate and inexorable death three years after,
anno 1581 ; being accused, condemned, and execute by
the Maiden, at the Cross of Edinburgh, as art and part
of the mui'der of our King Henry, Earl of Darnley,
father to King James the Sixth ' {Description of Tweed-
dale, 1715). See also vol. ii. of Billings' Baronial
Antiqicitics (1852).— Ord. Sur., sh. 24, 1864.
Droma, a troutful loch in Lochbroom parish, central
Ross-shire, 6 miles WNW of Aultguish inn, and 16| NW
of Garve station. Lying 905 feet above sea-level, it has
an utmost length and breadth of 1;^ and ^ mile, and
sends off the Droma rivulet 5J miles west-north-west-
ward, to form, with the Cuileig, the river Broom. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 92, 1881.
Dromore. See Drumore.
Dron, a hill in Longforgan parish, Perthshire, ad-
jacent to the boundary with Forfarshire, 2 miles NW of
Longforgan village. It rises to an altitude of 684 feet
above sea-level ; and it has, within a dell on its southern
slope, some remains of a chapel of the 12th century,
belonging to Coupar- Angus Abbey.
Dron, a parish of SE Perthshire, whose church stands
2 miles SSE of its station and post-village, Bridge of
Earn, that being 3| miles SSE of Perth. It includes a
detached district separated from the W side of the main
body by a strip of Dunbarney, 1 furlong to ^ mile across ;
and it is bounded N by Dunbarney, NE and E by Aber-
nethy, SE by the Fifeshire and S by the Perthshire
section of Arngask, SW and W by Forgandenny. Its
utmost length, from E to W, is 3J miles ; its breadth,
from N to S, varies between 1^ and 2^ miles ; and its
area is 4192g acres, of which 63 1§ belong to the detached
district, and 5 are water. The Farg winds 3| miles
along the south-eastern and eastern border ; and in the
NE, where it passes off into Abernethy, the surface
sinks to 45 feet above sea-level, thence rising to 751 on
Balmanno Hill and 950 on Dron Hill — grassy, copse-
decked summits of the Ochils these. The rocks are
mostly eruptive, but include some sandstone, and show
appearances of coal. The soil on the low grounds is
chiefly clay and loam, and on the uplands is compara-
tively light and shallow. About five-eighths of the
entire area are in tillage, nearly oiio-tenth is underwood,
and the remainder is pasture. The detached district is
called Ecclesiamagirdle, and probably got its name from
an ancient chapel of which some fragments still exist.
Here and in Dron churchyard are two Martyrs' graves ;
on Balnianno Hill is a large boulder rocking -stone.
DRUMBLADE
B.VLMAXXO Castle and Gleneaux House are the chief
residences ; and the property is divided among 7, 4
holding each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 1 of
between £100 and £500, 1 of from £50 to £100, and 1
of from £20 to £50. Dron is in the ])resbytery of Pertli
and synod of Perth and Stirling ; the living is worth
£256. The church is a good Gothic edifice, built about
1826, and containing 350 sittings ; the public school,
with accommodation for 62 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 44, and a grant of £32, 9s. Valua-
tion (1882) £4639, 6s. Pop. (1801) 428, (1831) 464,
(1861) 376, (1871) 343, (1881) 335.— Ord. Sur., sh. 48,
1868.
Dronach, a haugh in Methven parish, Perthshire, on
the left bank of the Almond, h mile AVNW of Lynedoch
Cottage, and 4 miles NW of Almondbank. Here,
overshadowed by yew-trees, and enclosed by an iron
railing, is the grave of ' Bessie Bell and Mary Gray,' who
died of the plague in 1666. Their gravestone bears
inscription : ' They lived — they loved — they died. ' See
Lynedoch.
Drongan, a station on the Ayr and Cumnock section
of the Glasgow and South-Western railway, 9i miles
ESE of Ayr. In its vicinity are Drongan House, Drongan
colliery, and a tolerably entire but ruined tower, once
the residence of a branch of the Crawford family.
Drongs, a curious insulated rock in Northmaven
parish, Shetland, at the back of Hillswick Ness. Rising
almost sheer from the water to a height of 100 feet,
it is cleft in three places nearly to the bottom, and,
seen through a fog or at a distance, resembles a ship
under sail.
Dronley, a village in the S of Auchterhouse parish, SW
Forfarshire, IJ mile WSW of Dronley station on the
Ne^-tyle branch of the Caledonian, this being 11 mOes
NNW of Dundee. See Auchterhouse.
Dronochy, a broken, ancient, sculptured cross in For-
teviot parish, SE Perthshire, on a rising-ground to the
S of Forteviot Halyhill. It is one of several crosses or
pillars that mark the precincts of the ancient Picta^^an
palace of Forteviot.
Dropping Cave, a stalactite cavern in the coast cliffs of
Slains parish, Aberdeenshire, 3 furlongs E by N of the
parish church. Its entrance is low, but its interior is
lofty and capacious, and is encrusted, less richly now
than once, with numerous beautiful stalactites.
Druidhm. See Dhruim.
Druidibeg, an isleted loch in South Uist island, Inver-
ness-shire, 1 6 miles N of Loch Boisdale hotel. It measures
3 miles in length and 1 mile in width ; abounds in
trout ; and sends off a copious streamlet, which drives
the chief mill of the island.
Druids' Bridge, a series of huge submerged blocks of
stone in Glenorchy parish, Argyllshire, extending a con-
siderable distance into Loch Awe, a little to the N of
Cladich. They are traditionally said to be part of the
foundation of an intended ancient bridge across the lake.
Druids' Hill. See Dundroich.
Druie. See Duthil.
Druim. See Dhruim.
Drum, an estate, with a mansion, in Libertou parish,
Edinburghshire, ^ mile SE of Gilmerton. Long held
by the Lords Somerville, the thirteenth of whom built
the present house towards the middle of last century, it
now is the property of John More Nisbett, Esq. of
Cairnhill, who owns 270 acres in Midlothian, valued
at £951 per annum.
Drumachargan, a conical, copse-clad hill (512 feet)
in Monzievaird and Strowan parish, Perthshire, near the
left bank of the Tay, 1 J mile WNW of CrieH".
Drumadoon. See Drimadoon.
Drumalban. See Grampians.
Drumbaig. See Assynt.
Drumbeg. See Drymen.
Drumblade, a parish of NW Aberdeenshire, whose
church stands 4^ miles E by N of Huntly, under which
there is a post office of Drumblade.
The parish, containing al.so Huntly station, is bounded
NE and E by Forgue, SE bv Lisch, SW by Gartly, W
871
DBUMBLAIB
and NW by Huntly. Its greatest length, from N to S,
is 5§ miles ; its greatest breadth, from E to W, is 5-J
miles ; and its area is 9332i acres. The Bogie winds 3§
miles northward along the Gartly and Iluntly border ;
and Glen Water, a head-stream of the Ury, 1^ mile
east-north-eastward along all the boundary w-ith Insch ;
whilst several burns cither traverse the interior or trace
the remaining boundaries. The surface, sinking in the
NE along the Burn of Forguo to 306 feet above sea-
level, thence rises to 671 feet near Garrieswell, 637 at
Boghead, 700 at Bx Hill, 716 at Woodbank, and 906
near Upper Stonyfield, the southern division of the
parish being occupied by a series of gently-rounded hills.
Clay-slate, grey granite, and trap are the prevailing
rocks ; and masses of limestone occur to the E of Lessen-
drum. The soil, in the valleys, is chiefly a deep rich
loam ; on the higher grounds, it is thin and gravelly,
but fairly fertile. Fully three-fourths of the entire area
are arable, extensive reclamations having been carried
out within the last fifty years ; woods cover about
one-sixteenth ; and the rest is either pastoral or waste.
The chief historic event is Bruce's encampment at Sliach
in 1307, when, sick though he was, he held Comyn's
forces in check ; and Robin's Height and the Meet Hil-
lock are supposed to have been occupied by his troops. A
Roman road is said to have run past Meikletown ; and
antiquities are two prehistoric tumuli, a few remaining
stones of a ' Druidical ' circle, and the Well of St Hilary,
the patron saint, which was formerly resorted to by
pilgrims. Lessendrum is the only mansion ; and 3
proprietors divide most of the parish. Drumblade is in
the presbytery of Turrift' and synod of Aberdeen ; the
living is worth £206. The parish churcli, built in 1773,
contains 550 sittings ; and 1 mile SW stands a Free
church. A public and a girls' and industrial school,
with respective accommodation for 99 and 51 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 31 and 50, whilst
the latter received a grant of £38, 15s. Valuation
(1881) £8533, 4s. 8d. Pop. (1801) 821, (1831) 978,
(1861) 926, (1871) 931, (1881) 9i3.— Orel. Sur., sh. 86,
1876.
Drumblair, an estate, with a modern mansion, in
Forgue parish, W Aberdeenshire, 10 miles ENE of
Huntly.
Drumcarrow. See Cameron.
Drum Castle, a mansion in Drumoak parish, Aber-
deenshire, 1 mile NAV of Drum station on the Deeside
railway, this being 10 miles WSW of Aberdeen. The
house itself is a large Elizabethan edifice, built in 1619,
and adjoins a three-story, massive granite keep, the
Tower of Drum, which, dating from the 12th or 13th
century, measures 60 by 40 feet, and is 63 feet high,
with walls 12 feet in thickness. This was the royal
fortalice conferred, with the Forest of Drum, in 1323, by
Robert Bruce, on his armour-bearer. Sir William de
Irvine, whose grandson. Sir Alexander, commanded and
fell at Haklaw (1411), whilst his thirteenth descendant,
also a Sir Alexander (d. 1687), has been identified with
the ' Laird o' Drum ' of a good old ballad. The present
and twenty-first laird, Alexander Forbes Irvine, Esq.
(b. 1818 ; sue. 1861), holds 7689 acres in tlic shire,
valued at £5210 per annum. The Hill of Drum, extend-
ing west-south-westward from the mansion, rises gra-
dually, on all sides, from gently undulated low ground
to an elevation of 414 feet above sea-level, and from its
SE shoulder commands an extensive view. At its
south-western base, 1^ mile W of Park station, lies the
shallow, weedy Loch of Drum (6 x 2.V furl. ; 225 feet),
which, receiving a streamlet from Banchory-Ternan,
sends off its eflluence southward to the Dee. — Orel. Sur.,
shs. 76, GG, 1874-71.
Drumcharry, a hamlet in Fortingal parish, Perth-
shire, i>n the left bank of the Lyon, 7i miles W of
Ab.n-fd.ly.
Drumclog, a wide boggy moorland tract in Avondale
parish, Lanarkshire, near the Ayrshire border, and 6
miles SW of Strathaven. Here stands a somewhat
showy monument, inscribed, 'In commemoration of tlie
victory obtained on this battlefield, on Sabbath the
"372
DRUMGELLOCH
lltli of June 1679, by our Covenanted forefathers over
Graham of Claverhouse and his dragoons.' On 29 May
1679, eighty horsemen hnd affixed to Rutherglcn market-
cross the ' Declaration and Testimony of the True Pres-
byterian Party in Scotland,' and, following up this
public defiance, an armed conventicle met on 11 June
on the boggy slope of conical Loudon Hill, where
Bruce, 370 years before, had defeated the English in-
vader. Service was scarce begun, when the watchers
brought word that Claverhouse was at hand, and, the
congregation breaking up, the armed men moved off to
the farm of Drumclog, 2^ miles to the eastward. Two
hundred or more in number, all well armed with fusils
and pitchforks, and forty of them mounted, they were
officered by Hall of Haughhead, Robert Fleming, Balfour
of Burley, and Hackston of Rathillet, who wisely took
up position behind a cleft, where lay the water of a
ditch or 'stank.' Across this cleft the skirmishers of
either side kept firing ; the question appeared to be,
which would cross first, or which hold longest out ;
when suddenly two parties of the Covenanters, one
headed by young William Cleland the poet, swept round
both ends of the stank with so much fury that the
dragoons could not sustain the shock, but broke and
fled, leaving thirty-six dead on the field, where only
three of their antagonists were killed. Such was Drum-
clog, preceded by Magus Muir, followed by Bothwell
Brig, an episode immortalised by Scott in Old Mortality,
sung too by Allan Cunningham, and thus alluded to by
Carlyle, under date April 1820: — 'Drumclog Moss is
the next object I remember, and Irving and I sitting by
ourselves under the silent bright skies among the "peat-
hags," with a world all silent around us. These peat-
hags are still pictured in me ; brown bog all pitted and
broken into heathy remnants and bare abrupt wide
holes, 4 or 5 feet deep, mostly dry at present ; a flat
wilderness of broken bog, of (juagmire not to be trusted
(probably w^etter in old days there, and wet still in rainy
seasons). Clearly a good place for Cameronian preach-
ing, and dangerously difiicult for Claverse and horse
soldiery if the suffering remnant had a few old muskets.
... I remember us sitting on the brow of a peat-hag,
the sun shining, our own voices the one sound. Far, far
away to the westward over our brown horizon, towers
up white and visible at the many miles of distance a
high irregular pyramid. "Ailsa Craig," we at once
guessed, and thought of the seas and oceans away yon-
der.'—On/. Sur., shs. 22, 23, 1865. See W. Alton's
History of the Rencounter at Dnmidog (Hamilton, 1821) ;
voh vii. , pp. 221-226, of Hill Burton's History of Scot-
land (ed. 1876) ; and vol. i., p. 178, of Carlyle's Remini-
scences (1881).
Drumcoltran, an old, strong, square tower in Kirk-
gunzeon parish, Kirkcudbrightshire.
Drumderfit, a ridge of hill (482 feet) in Kilmuir-
Wester parish, Ross-shire, 4 miles N by W of Inveruass.
The ridge, which projects from the N side of Ord Hill,
was the scene about 1400 of the destruction of an army
of the Lord of the Isles, by a stratagem and a night
attack on the part of the men of Inverness ; and is
extensively studded with cairns.
Drumderg, a jiromiuent hill (1250 feet) in Loth parish,
Sutherland, flanking the head of Glen Loth, and forming
the southern shoulder of Beinn Dobhrain (2060 feet).
The glen at its foot was the scene in the 16th century
of a bloody conflict between the inhabitants of Loth
and the men of Strathnavcr.
Driunellie or Marlee Loch, a lake in Lethendy parish,
Perthshire, 2;^ miles W by S of Pilairgowrie. An expan-
sion of the river Lunan, it lies 190 feet above sea-level,
has an utmost length and width of 1 mile and 3;| fur-
longs, and teems with perch and pike, the latter running
up to 30 lbs. Its trout, of from 2 to 5 lbs. , are very
shy.— 0/v/. Sur., sh. 56, 1870.
brumelzier. See Duummklzieu.
Drumgeith, a village, with a public school, in Dun-
dee parish, Forfarshire, 3 miles ENE of Dundee.
Drumgelloch, a village in New Monklaud parish,
Lanarkshire, 7 furlongs E of Airdric.
DRUMGLOW
Drmnglow or Dumglow. See Cleisii.
Drumgray, a village in New Monklaud parish, Lanark-
shire, 4 miles ENE of Airdrie.
Drumin, a mansion in Inveraven parish, Banffshire,
between the confluent Livet and Aven, 5 miles S of Bal-
lindalloch. Close to it are the ruins of Castle-Duumik.
Dmmimior House. See ArcniNDOiu and Keakx.
Drumkilbo, an estate, ^yith a mansion, in Meigle par-
ish, E Perthshire, 9 furlongs E by N of ileigle village.
Drumlamford, an estate, with a mansion of 1838, in
Colmonell parish, S Ayrshire, 4 miles SE of Barrhill
station. Near it is Drumlamford Loch (2 x 1^ furl.).
Drumlanrig Castle, a seat of the Duke of Buccleuch
in Durisdeer parish. Upper Nithsdale, Dumfriesshire,
17 miles NW of Dumfries, and 3h NNW of Thornhill.
It crowns the last spur of a drmti or long ridge of
hill, on the right bank of the Nith ; and, visible from
afar, stately, embowered in trees, itself has a view do^^^l
all the Nith's rich valley, away to the heights of
Criffel. It forms a hollow square, four stories high,
surmounted with corner turrets, and presenting such
an array of windows, that, say the dalesfolk, there
are as many as the year has days. From the- inner
quadrangle staircases ascend at the angles in semicircular
towers ; \vithout, the architraves of windows and doors
are profusely adorned with hearts and stars, the armorial
bearings of the Douglases. The castle fronts N, but has
also a noble fagade to the E, combining on either side
aspects of strength and beautj', the lineaments of a
mansion and a fortress ; herein, too, that it is nightly
secured, not only by a thick door of oak, but by a pon-
derous gate of iron. Falsely ascribed to Inigo Jones,
like Heriot's Hospital, which it no little resembles, the
present castle took ten years in building, and was
finished in 16S9, the year after the Revolution. "Wil-
liam, first Duke of Queensberry — celebrated in civil
history as a statesman, and in the annals of the Cove-
nanters as an abettor of persecution — planned and com-
pleted it ; and he expended upon it such enormous sums
of money, and during the only night that he passed
within its walls, was so 'exacerbated by the inaccessi-
bility of medical advice to relieve him from a temporary
fit of illness,' that he quitted it in disgust, and after-
wards wrote on the bills for its erection, ' The Deil pike
out his een wha looks herein ! ' Among seventeen por-
traits, by Lely and Kneller mostly, one of William III.
bears marks of claymore wounds — a memorial of the
Highlanders' brief sojourn in the castle on their retreat
from Derby (1745). The barony of Drumlanrig belonged
to the Douglases as early at least as 1356, and for four
centuries passed from father to son with only a single
break (1578), and then from grandsire to grandson. In
1388 James, second Earl of Douglas, conferred it on the
elder of his two natural sons. Sir William de Douglas,
first Baron of Drumlanrig, whose namesake and ninth
descendant was created Viscount of Drumlanrig in 1628
and Earl of Queensberry in 1633. William, third Earl
(1637-95) was created Duke of Queensberry and Earl of
Drumlanrig in 1684 ; and Charies, third Duke (1698-
1778), was succeeded by his first cousin, William, third
Eari of March and Ruglen (1725-1810). 'Old Q,' that
spoiler of woods and patron of the turf, the ' degenerate
Douglas' of Wordsworth's indignant sonnet, was in
turn succeeded by Henry, third Duke of Buccleuch,
great-grandson of the second Duke of Queensberry ; and
his grandson, the fifth and present Duke, is seventeenth
in descent from Sir AVilliam, the first baron, and owns
in Dumfriesshire 253,514 acres, valued at £97,530 per
annum. (See Dalkeith.) Among the episodes in
Drumlanrig's history are its pillage by the English
under Lord AVliarton (1549), an entertainment given at
it to James VI. (1 Aug. 1617), its capture by the Par-
liamentarians (1650), and Burns's frequent visits to its
chamberiain, John M'Murdo (1788-96). From 1795 till
liis death ' Old Q.' ■v\Tought hideous havoc in the woods,
here as at Neidpath ; so that the hills wliich Ikirns had
known clad ■ndth forest, AVordsworth in 1803 found
bleak and naked. The castle, too, unoccupied by its
lords for upwards of forty years, fell into disrepair, but
DKUMMELZIEB
the present Duke, on attaining his majority in 1827, at
once took in hand the work of restoration and replant-
ing, so that the castle, woods, and gardens of Drum-
lanrig are now once more the glory of Upper Nithsdale
— the woods, which retain a few survivors from the
past (finest among these, two oaks, two beeches, a
sycamore, and the limetree avenue of 1754) ; and the
gardens and policies, which were thus described by
Pennant (1772) : ' The beauties of Drumlanrig are not
confined to the highest part of the grounds ; the walks,
for a very considerable way by the sides of the Nith,
abound with most picturesque and various scenery.
Below the bridge the sides are prettily wooded, but not
remarkably lofty ; above, the views become wildly mag-
nificent. The river runs through a deep and rocky
channel, bounded by vast wooded cliffs that rise sud-
denly from its margin ; and the prospect down from the
summit is of a terrific depth, increased by the rolling of
the black waters beneath. Two views are particularly
fine — one of quick repeated but extensive meanders
amidst broken sharp-pointed rocks, which often divide
the river into several channels, interrupted by a short
and foaming rapids coloured with a moory taint ; the
other is of a long strait, narrowed by the sides, precipi-
tous and wooded, approaching each other equidistant,
horrible from the blackness and fury of the river, and
the fiery-red and black colours of the rocks, that have
all the ap)pearance of having sustained a change by the
rage of another element.' The Glasgow and South-
western railway, a little N of Carronbridge station,
traverses a stupendous tunnel on the Drumlanrig
grounds, 4200 feet in length, and nearly 200 feet be-
neath the surface, \nth an archway measuring 27 feet
by 29. —Ord. Sur. , shs. 15, 9, 1864-63. See Dr Craufurd
Tait Ramage's Drumlanrig Castle and the Douglases
(Dumf. 1876).
Drumlean, a hamlet in Aberfoyle parish, Perthshire,
near the NE shore of Loch Ard, 3 miles WNAY of Aber-
foyle hamlet.
Drumlemble. See Campbeltowx.
Drumlithie, a village in Glenbervie parish, Kincar-
dineshire, with a station on the Caledonian railway, 7^
miles SW of Stonehaven. At it are a post office imder
Fordoun, Avith railway telegi-aph, a school, Glenbervie
Free church, and St John's Episcopal church (1863), a
Gothic edifice, with organ and two stained-glass win-
dows.
Drummachloy, Glenmore, or Ettrick Bum. See Bute.
Drummellan, an estate, with a mansion, in Maybole
parish, Ayrshire, 1^ mile NE of Maybole town.
Drummellie. See Deumellie.
Drummelzier, a decayed village and a parish of SW
Peeblesshire. The village, standing ujion Powsail Burn,
^ mile above its influx to the Tweed, is 2| miles SE of
Broughton station, 8 ESE of its post-town Biggar, 3
WSW of Stobo station, and 9i WSAV of Peebles.
The parish included Tweedsmuir till 1643, and since
1742 has comprehended the southern and larger portion
of the old parish of Dawick. It is bounded N by Stobo,
E by Manor, SE by the Megget section of Lj'ne, S by
Tweedsmuir, and W by Crawford and Culter in Lanark-
shire and by Broughton. In outline rudely resembling
a boot, with heel at SE and toe at SW, it has an utmost
length of 11 J miles from its north-eastern angle near
Stobo station to its soutli-wcstern near Coomb Dod, an
utmost breadth from E to AV of 6 J mi les, and an area of
18,029^ acres, of which 81 are water. For 5f miles
the silver Tweed, entering from Tweedsmuir 3 furlongs
below Crook inn, meanders north-by-eastward across the
south-western interior and on or close to the boundary
with Broughton, next for 33 miles east-by-northward
along most of tlie Stobo border. During this course it
falls from about 740 to 590 feet above sea-level, and is
joined by five streams that rise in Drummelzier — Pol-
mood Burn (running 4 miles WNW, mostly along the
Tweedsmuir bonier), Kingledoors Burn (5| miles NE),
Stanhojie Burn (4i miles WNW), Carton Burn (2^ miles
W by N), and Powsail Burn (IJ mile NW), this last
being formed by Drummelzier IJurn (2j| miles NW) and
373
DRUMMIDOON
Scrape Bum (2^ miles WNW). The surface sinks, then,
to 590 feet at the north-eastern angle of the parish, and
rises thence southward and south-westward to * Breach
Law (16S4 feet), Scawd Law (1658), Den Knowes(1479),
Finglen Rig (1295), Dulyard Brae (1609), the * Scrape
(23-17), *Pvkestone Hill (2414), Drummelzier Law (2191),
Glenstivon Dod (2256), Craig Head (1550), *Long Grain
Knowo (2306), Taberon Law (2088), * Dollar Law
(2680), Lairdside Knowe (1635), Polmood Hill (1548),
Birkside Law (1951), Hunt Law (2096), Dun Rig (2149),
*Dun Law (2584), *Cramalt Craig (2723), and *Broad
Law (2723), on the right or E side of the Tweed ; and,
on the left, to Quilt Hill (1087), *Glcnlood Hill (1856),
Nether Oliver Dod (1673), * Coomb Hill (2096), *Glen-
whappcn Rig (2262), Hillshaw Head (2141), and * Coomb
Dod (2082), where asterisks mark those summits that
culminate on the borders of the parisli. These big
bro^vn hills fill nearly all the parish ; only to the NW
the Plain of Drummelzier, a fertile alluvial haugh, ex-
tends for about 2 miles along the Tweed, being, it is
said, the largest level space on the river above Kelso.
The rocks are mainly Lower Silurian, and include some
workable slate and a mass of compact and very white
limestone. The soil is rich loam on the haughs, and
elsewhere is generally sharp and strong. The entire
area is either pastoral or waste, with the exception of
barely 700 acres in tillage and a little over 400 under
wood, the latter chiefly on the Dawick estate. Drum-
melzier Castle, cro\vning a rocky knoll on the Tweed, 1
mile SW of the church, is a sheltered fragment of the
16th century fortalice of the head of the Tweedie sept ;
and on the top of a high pyramidal mount, 3| furlongs
E by N of the church, are vestiges of the more ancient
Tinnies or Thanes Castle, demolished by order of James
VL in 1592. 'At the side of the Powsail Burn,' to
quote from Pennicuik's Description of Tivcediale (1715),
' a little below the churchyard, the famous prophet
Merlin is said to be buried. The particular place of his
grave, at the foot of a thorn tree, was shown me, many
year ago, by the old and reverend minister of the place,
Mr Richard Brown ; and here was the old prophecy ful-
filled, delivered in Scotch rhyme to this purpose :
' " When Tweed and Po«-sail meet at Merlin's grave,
Scotland and England shall one monarch have ; "
for the same day that our King James the Sixth was
crowned King of England, the river Tweed, by an extra-
ordinary flood, so far overflowed the banks, that it met
and joined with Powsail at the said grave, which was
never before observed to fall out, nor since that time. '
Dawick House is the chief mansion ; and the property
is divided among five. Drummelzier is in the presby-
tery of Peebles and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ;
the living is worth £319. St Cuthbert's chapel, in the
upper part of the strath of Kingledoors, has disappeared ;
the present church, at the village, contains nearly 200
sittings ; and a public school, with accommodation for
44 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 31, and
a grant of £40, 15s. 6d. Valuation (1881) £4579,
13s. 3d. Pop. (1801) 278, (1831) 223, (1861) 209,
(1871) 221, (1881) 208.— Ord. Sur., sh. 24, 1864.
Drummidoon. See Diiimapoon.
Dnimmilling, an estate in West Kilbride parish, Ayr-
shire, near the village.
Drummin. See Drumin and Ca.stle-Drumin.
Drummochy, a village on the seaboard of Largo parish,
Fife, a little W of Largo station.
Dnunmond Castle, the Scottish scat of Lady Wil-
loughby dc Ercsby, in jMuthill parish, Perthshire, on a
picturesque rocky site, 3^ miles SSW of Crieff, and 3;/
WNW of Muthifl station. It was founded in 1491 by
the first Lord Drummond, on his removal from Stob-
IIALL ; and was the seat of tliat nobleman's descendants,
the Earls of Perth. The founder of the Drummond
family is said to have been one Alauricc, a Hungarian
noble, who in 1067 arrived witli Eadgar iEtheling and
St Margaret at the court of Malcolm Ceannmor, and
who from that king received the lands of Drymen or
Drummond in Stirlingshire. His sixth descendant. Sir
374
DRUMMORE
Malcolm Drummond, was rewarded by Bruce with lands
in Perthshire for services done at Bannockburn (1314),
where he advised the use of caltrops against the enemy's
horse — advice referred to in the family motto, ' Gang
warily.' Annabella Drummond (1340-1401), }iis great-
grand-daughter, was queen to Robert IIL, and so the
ancestress of Queen Victoria ; and Sir John Drummond
(1446-1519), twelfth in descent from the founder, was
lather to fair Mistress Margret, the vriie but not queen
of James IV., who, with her sisters Euphemia and
Sybilla, was poisoned at Drummond Castle in 1502.
The same Sir John was created Lord Drummond in
1487 ; and James, fourth Lord Drummond, was created
Earl of Perth in 1605. James, fourth Earl (1648-1716),
was, like his predecessors, a zealous Royalist, and fol-
lowed James II. into exile, from him receiving the title
of Duke of Perth. His grandson, James, third titular
Duke of Perth (1713-46), played a prominent part in
the '45, commanding at Prestonpans, Carlisle, Falkirk,
and Culloden. The Drummond estates, forfeited to the
Crown, were conferred by George III. in 1784 on Captain
James Drummond, who claimed to be heir-male of Lord
John Drummond, this third Duke's brother, and who
in 1797 was created Baron Perth and Drummond of Stob-
hall. At his death in 1800 they passed to his daughter,
Clementina-Sarah, who in 1807 married the Hon. Peter
Burrell, afterwards nineteenth Baron Willoughby de
Eresby ; and their daughter, Clementina Elizabeth
Heathcote-Drummond-Willoughby (b. 1809), widow of
Lord Aveland, Baroness Willoughby de Eresby, and
Joint Hereditary Chamberlain of England, in 1870
succeeded her brother in the Drummond estates, which
from 1868 to 1871 were unsuccessfully claimed by George
Drummond, Earl of Perth and Melfort, as nearest heii'-
male of the third Duke. Her Ladyship owns in Perth-
shire 76,837 acres, valued at £28,955 per annum.
Drummond Castle is twofold, old and modern. The
old edifice was visited often by James IV., and twice by
Queen Mary in July and the Christmas week of 1566.
It suff"ered great damage from the troops of Cromwell,
and fell into neglect and dilapidation after the Revolu-
tion of 1688 ; but was strengthened and garrisoned by
the royal troops in 1715, and, that this might not happen
again, was mostly levelled to the foundation by the
Jacobite Duchess of Perth in 1745. Partially rebuilt
about 1822, it was put into good habitable condition,
])reparatory to a visit of Queen Victoria and Prince
xVlbert in Sept. 1842 ; and now is partly fitted up as an
armoury, well stored with Celtic claymores, battle-axes,
and targets. The modern edifice, standing a little E of
the old, forms two sides of a quadrangle, facing N and
W ; and is of plain construction, comparatively poor in
architectural character ; but contains some interesting
portraits of the Stuarts. A temporary wooden pavilion,
within the quadrangle, served as a banqueting hall dur-
ing the visit of the Queen and Prince Albert ; and an
apartment in wliich Prince Charles Edward had slept,
served as Prince Albert's dressing-room. A beautiful
garden, often pronounced the finest in Great Britain,
lies in three successive terraces, on a steep slope, under
the S side of the castle rock ; comprises about 10 acres ;
and exhibits the three great styles of European liorticul-
ture — tlie Italian, the Dutch, and the French. A nobly-
wooded park * about 2 miles in diameter, witli many a
feature of both natural beauty and artificial embellisli-
inent, spreads all round tlie castle, as from a centre.
Within it are the conical hill of Torhmi (1291 feet), l^
mile to the WNW ; and the Pond of Drummond (5 x 2|
furl.), h mile to the ENE. The exquisite scenery of
Stratliearn lies under the eye and away to the E ; and a
sublime sweep of the Grampians fills all tlie view to the
N. — Ord. Sur., sh. 47, 1869. See Beauties of U2)i)cr
Strathcarn (3d ed., Crieff, 1870).
Drummore. See Drumore.
* The Transactions of the Uighland and Agricultural Societt/
for ISSO-Sl give the dimensiona of twelve magnificent beechca
here and seven oaks, according to which the tallest of the beeches
is 101 feet high and 15 feet in girth at 1 foot from the groinid, the
thickest being 2!) feet in girtli and 71 feet high; whilst of the oaka
the largest is 70 feet high and I'Ji in girth.
DRUMMOSSIE MUIR
Drmmnossie Muir, a bleak, broad-backed, sandstone
ridge on the mutual border of Dores, Inverness, Daviot,
and Croy parishes, ISTE Inverness-shire. Forming the
north-eastern and declining portion of the continuous
south-eastern hill-screen of the Great Glen of Scotland,
it presents to the view, from the neighbourhood of In-
verness, an almost straight sky-line ; has an average
summit elevation of 800 feet above sea-level ; and in-
cludes, at tlie NE end, the battlefield of Culloden.
Drum muir. See Botiuphxie.
Drumnadrochit, a hamlet, with an hotel, in Urquhart
and Glenmoriston parish, Inverness-shire, in the mouth
of Glen Urquhart, Ih mile W by S of Temple Pier, on
the AV shore of Loch Ness, and 14 miles SAV of Inver-
ness, under which it has a post office, with money order,
savings' bank, and telegraph departments. Cattle fairs
are held here on the Tuesdays of October and November
before Beauly.
Drumnetermont. See Dkummietermox.
Drumoak, a parish partly in Kincardine, but chiefly
in Aberdeenshire, traversed by the Deeside section of
the Great North of Scotland, with Drum and Park
stations thereon, 10 and 11 miles WSAV of Aberdeen,
under which Drumoak has a post office. It is bounded
N by Echt and Peterculter, SE by Peterculter, S by
Dirrris, and SW by Banchory-Ternan ; and rudely re-
sembling a triangle in shape, with apex to ENE, it has
an utmost length from E to AV of 5^ miles, an utmost
breadth from N to S of 3J miles, and an area of 7401:^
acres, of which 2021^^ are in Kincardineshire, and 164J
are water. The broadening Dee flows 4^ miles east-
north-eastward along all the boundary with Durris ; and
Gormack Burn 5| miles eastward along that with Echt
and Peterculter, to form with Leuchar Bui'n the Burn of
Culter, which itself for J mile continues to separate Drum-
oak and Peterculter. Towards the SAV the shallow, weedy
Loch of Drum (6 x 2J furl. ) lies at an altitude of 225 feet.
Sinking along the Burn of Culter to 123, and along the
Dee to 82, feet above sea-level, the surface rises to 350
feet on Ord Hill, 414 on the central ridge of the Hill of
Drum, and 254 at the parish church. Gneiss and granite
are the prevailing rocks ; and the soil, light and sandy
along the Dee, elsewhere ranges from good black loamy
on the higher southern slope to gravellj' and moorish
overlying moorband or retentive blue stony clay. Nearly
a fourth of the entire area is under wood, over a sixth
is pastoral or waste, and the rest is in cultivation. James
Gregory (1638-75), the greatest philosopher of his age
but one, that one being Newton, was born in Drumoak,
his father being parish minister ; and so perhaps was his
brother David (1627-1720), who himself had a singular
turn for mechanics and mathematics. Arrow-heads,
three stone coffins, and silver coins have been found ;
a curious sculptured stone was transferred in 1822 from
Keith's Muir to the top of Hawk Hillock in the policies
of Park ; but the chief antiquity is the Tower of Drum,
which is separately noticed, as likewise are the man-
sions of Drum and Park. Five proprietors hold each an
annual value of more, and 3 of less, than £100. Drumoak
is in the presbytery and synod of Aberdeen ; the living
is worth £230. The church, ^ mile N of Park station,
is a good Gothic edifice of 1836, containing 650 sittings ;
and a Free church, erected at a cost of £1500, was opened
at Park in January 1880. Dn;moak public, Sunnyside
female Church of Scotland, and Glashmore sessional
school, with respective accommodation for 108, 33, and
49 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 63, 25,
and 22, and grants of £61, 16s., £18, 2s., and £15, 6.s.
Valuation (1881) £5678, 19s. 8d., of which £1025,
19s. 5d. was for the Kincardineshire section. Pop.
(1801) 648, (1831) 804, (1861) 996, (1871) 1032, (1881)
9B0.—Ord. Sur., shs. 76, 77, 66, 1871-76.
Dnunochter (Gael, driiim-uachdar, ' upper ridge '), a
mountain pass (1500 feet) over the Central Grampians,
on the mutual border of Perth and Inverness shires,
5| miles S of Dalwhinnie station, and 2 NNW of Dal-
naspidal. Flanked to the AV by the Boar of Badenoch
(2452 feet), Bruach nan lomalrean (3175), and Ben
Udlaman (3306), to the W by Creagan Doire an Donaidh
DRUNKIE
(2367) and Chaoruinn (3004), it is traversed both by
the Great North Road from Perth to Inverness and by
the Highland railway, being the highest point reached
by any railway in the Kingdom. Snow often drifts
here to a great extent, lying 30 feet deep in the storm
of March 1881.— OrrZ. Sur., sh. 63, 1873.
Drumochy. See Drummochy.
Drumore, a lochlet (1 x ^ furl.) on the mutual border
of Kirkmichael and ilaybole parishes, AjTshire, ^ mile
NNW of Kirkmichael village.
Drumore, a seaport village in Kirkraaiden parish,
SAV Wigtownshire, on a small bay of its own name, at
the AV side of Luce Bay, 5 miles N by AV of the Mull of
Galloway, and 17^ S by E of Stranraer, with which it
communicates daily by coach. It has a post office, ^vith
money order and savings' bank departments, 4 inns, a
public school, a small harbour with a (juay and good
anchorage, and ruins of a castle, still habitable in 1684;
and it carries on some small commerce in the export of
agricultural produce, and the import of coals and lime.
Drumore, an estate, with a mansion, in Prestonpans
parish, Haddingtonshire, on the coast, 1| mile ENE of
Musselburgh. Its owner. Col. AVilliam Aitchison (b.
1827 ; sue. 1846), holds 121 acres in the shire, valued
at £872 per annum, including £538 for minerals.
Drumore, a station at the mutual boundary of Anwoth
and Kirkmabreck parishes, SW Kirkcudbrightshire, on
the Castle-Douglas and Portpatrick railway, 4j miles
ENE of Creetown.
Drumour. See Duxkeld, Little.
Drumpellier, extensive iron-works and mineral pits
of Old Monkland parish, Lanarkshire, in the western
■vicinity of Coatbridge. Drumpellier House, IJ mile
AV of the town, is the property of D. Carrick-Buchanan,
Esq. of Caeradale, who holds 868 acres in Lanark-
shire, valued at £500 per annum.
Drumry, an estate on the AV border of New Kilpatrick
parish, Dumbartonshire, 2^ miles ESE of Duntocher.
From the Callendar family it passed in 1346 to the
Li\'ingstones, and from Sir James Hamilton of F}Tiart
in 1528 to Laurence Crawfurd of Kilbirnie, ancestor of
the Crawfurd-PoUoks of Pollok. Some ruins on it
have been thought to be those of a chapel which he
founded, but more probably are a remnant of Drumry
Castle.
Drumsargard or Drumsharg, an ancient barony in
Cambuslang parish, Lanarkshire. Comprising nearly
two-thirds of the parish, it belonged successively to the
Oliphants, Alurrays, Douglases, and Hamiltons, and
changed its name in the 17th century to Cambuslang.
Its stately castle, crowning a round flat-topped mound,
20 feet high. If mile ESE of Cambuslang church, has
left scarcely a vestige.
Drumsharg. See Drum.=iaegard.
Drumshoreland, a station and a moor in Uphall
parish, Linlithgowshire. The station is on the Edin-
burgh and Bathgate section of the North British, 1 mUe
S of Broxburn, 7| miles E by N of Bathgate, and Hi AV
of Edinburgh. The moor, extending from tlie southern
vicinity of the station to the Almond or Edinburgh-
shire border, comprises some 200 acres of uncultivated
land, one-half of it covered with natural wood.
Drumsleet. See Troqueer.
Drumsturdy, a straggling village in Monifieth parish,
Forfarsliire, at the N base of Laws Hill, 6 miles ENE
of Dundee.
Drumtochty Castle, a mansion in Fordoun parish,
Kincardineshire, on the left bank of Luther Water near
its source, 1 mile NNE of Strathfinella HiU (1358 feet),
2 miles AVNW of Auchinblae village, and 4J NW of
Fordoun station. A splendid Gothic edifice, built at a
cost of £30,000 from designs by Gillespie Graham, and
standing in finely-wooded grounds, it is the scat of Major
Andrew Gammell of Countesswells, who holds in Kin-
cardineshire 4823 acres, valued at £2224, 9s. per annum.
Drumvaich, a hamlet in Kilniadock parish, Perth-
shire, on the left bank of the Teith, 4 miles AVNAV of
Doune.
Drunkie, a loch on the mutual border of Aberfoyle
375
DRYBRIDGE
and Port of Monteith parishes, Pertlisliire, 3 miles NNE
of Aberfoyle hamlet, ami 3 SE of the Trosachs Hotel. Ly-
ing 450 feet above sea-level, it extends 9 furlongs north-
north-eastward to within J mile of Loch YenaLhar, and
varies in width between 1 and 7^ furlongs, the latter
measured along a narrow westward arm. Its shores
are prettily wooded, and it contains tine red-fleshed
trout, running from J to 1 \h.—Ord. Sur., sh. 38, 1871.
Drybridge, a village in Whitburn parish, Linlithgow-
shire, 1 mile NE of the meeting-point of Linlithgow,
Edinburgh, and Lanark shires, and within f mile of
Fauld house and Crofthead stations.
Drybridge, a station in Dundonald parish, AjTshire,
on the Kilmarnock and Troon railway, 5 miles W by S
of Kilmarnock.
Dryburgh Abbey, a noble monastic ruin in Merton
parish, S\V Berwickshire, 1^ mile E of Newtown St
Boswell's station, and 4^ miles ESE of Melrose, or 6 by
way of Bemersyde Hill. It stands, 200 feet above sea-
level, in the midst of a low green haugh, that, measur-
ing 3| by 2 J furlongs, is sheltered northward by a woody
hill (588 feet), and on the other three sides is washed by
a horseshoe bend of 'chiming Tweed,' whose right or
opposite bank is steep and copse-clad — beyond it the
triple Eildons (1385 feet). The haugh itself is an
orchard, dedicated by ' David, Earl of Buchan, to
liis most excellent Parents ; ' and the ruins, of reddish-
brown sandstone, hewn from the quarry of Dryburgh,
are so overgrown with foliage that 'everywhere you
behold the usurpation of nature over art. In one
roofless apartment a fine spruce and holly are to be seen
flourishing in the rubbish ; in others, the walls are
completely covered with ivy ; and, even on the top of
some of the arches, trees have sprung up to a con-
siderable growth, and, clustering with the aspiring
pinnacles, add character to the Gothic pUe. These aged
trees on the summit of the walls are the surest records
we have of the antiquity of its destruction' {Monastic
Annals of Tcviotdalc). The .site is uneven, the chapter-
house standing ten steps below, and the church ten
steps above, the cloisters, which, grassy and open now,
were 93 feet square. To the N of them stood the church ;
to the S the refectory (100 x 30 feet), with beautiful
W rose-window of twelve lights ; and to the E, the
abbot's parlour, library (23 x 23 feet), dormitory
(45 X 23 feet), chapter-house (47 x 23 feet ; 20 high),
St Modan's chapel or sacristy (24 x 13 feet), etc. All
the conventual buildings are in the Transition style
from Romanesque to First Pointed ; and the most
perfect of them all is the chaj)ter-house, which still
retains its barrel - vaulted roof and arched sedilia
along its eastern wall, whilst a double circle on tlie
floor marks, it is said, the founder's sepulchre. Nearly
opposite this chapter-house is a goodly yew-tree, as old
as, if not older than, the abbey. The church was cruci-
form, and comj^rised a six-bayed nave (98 x 55 feet), a
shallow transept (75 x 20 feet) with eastern aisles,
and a two-bayed choir with a presbytery beyond, in
place of a lady chapel — the whole building measuring
190 feet from end to end. Transept and choir are
First Pointed in style ; but the nave, restored in the
first half of the 14th century, is altogether Second
Pointed. ' Are ' and ' is,' we say, though little remains
of this great monument of former piety .save the nave's
western gable, the gable of the S transejit with its large
and fine five-light window, and St Mary's Aisle — a frag-
ment of choir and N transept, containing the tombs of
the Haigs of 15emer.syde, of the Erskines, and of Sir
"Walter and Sir Walter's kinsfolk. St Mary's Aisle,
whereof wrote Alexander Smith, that ' when the swollen
Tweed raves as it sweeps, red and broad, round the
ruins of Dryburgh, you think of him who rests there —
the magician asleep in the lap of legends old, the
sorcerer buried in the heart of the land he has made
enchanted.'
The eleventh Earl of ]5uchan, we are told by Allan
Cunningham, waited on Lady Scott in 1819, when the
illustrious author of Wavcrlcy was brought nigh to tlic
grave by a grievous illness, and begged her to intercede
376
DRYBURGH ABBEY
with her husband to do him the honour of being buried
in Drj-burgh. 'The ])lace,' said the Earl, 'is very
beautiful,- — ^just such a place as the poet loves ; and as
he has a fine taste that way, he is sure of being gratified
with my oiler.' Scott, it is said, good-humouredly
promised to give Lord Buchan the refusal, since he
seemed so solicitous. The peer himself, however, was
buried in Dryburgh three years before the bard. The
last resting-place of Sir Walter Scott is a small spot
of ground in an area formed by four pillars, in one of
the ruined aisles that belonged to his boasted forbears —
the Haliburtons of Merton, an ancient baronial famUy, of
which Sir Walter's paternal grandmother was a member,
and of which Sir Walter himself was the lineal representa-
tive. On a side wall is the following inscription : — ' Sub
hoc tumulo jacet Joannes Haliburtonus, Baro de Mer-
toun, vir religione et virtutc clarus, (jui obiit 17 die
Augusti, 1640.' Beneath there is a coat-of-arms. On
the back wall the later history of the .spot is expressed
on a tablet as follows : — ' Hunc locum sepulturae D.
Senescliallus Buchaniie Comes Gualtero, Thomse et
Roberto Scott, Haliburtoni nepotibus, concessit, 1791 ;'
—that is to say, the Earl of Buchan granted this place
of sepulture in 1791, to Walter, Thomas, and Robert
Scott, descendants of the Laird of Haliburton. The
persons indicated Avere the father and uncles of Sir
Walter. The second of these uncles, however, and his
own wife, were the only members of his family there
interred before him. Lady Scott was buried there
in May 1826 ; Sir Walter himself on 26 Sept. 1832 ;
his sou. Colonel Sir Walter Scott, in Feb. 1847 ; and
John Gibson Lockhart, ' his son-in-law, biographer, and
friend,' in Nov. 1854. So small is the space that the
body of ' the mighty minstrel ' had to be laid in a
direction north and south, instead of eastward, facing
the Advent dawn.
' So there, in solemn solitude,
In that sequester'd spot
Lies mingling with its kindred clay
The dust of Walter Scott !
Ah ! where is now the flashing eye
That kindled up at Flodden field,
That saw, in fancj', onsets fierce,
And clashing spear and shield,—
' The eager and untiring step,
That urged the search for Border lore.
To make old Scotland's heroes known
On every peojiled shore,—
The wondrous sjiell that summon'd up
The charging squadrons fierce and fast,
And garnished everj' cottage wall
With pictures of the past, —
' The graphic pen that drew at once
The traits alike so truly shown
In Bertram's faithful pedagogue,
And haughty Marmion, —
The hand that equally could paint,
And give to each proiiortion fair,
The stern, the wild Meg Merrilies,
And lovely Lady Clare, —
' The glowing dreams of bright romance
That teeming filled his ample brow, —
Where is his daring chivalry,
Where are his visions now ?
The open hand, the generous lieart
That joy'd to soothe a neighbour's pains?
Naught, naught, we see, save grass and weeds
And solemn silence reigns.
' The flashing eye is dimm'd for aye ;
The stalwart limb is stiff and cold ;
Ko longer jiours liis trumpet-note
To wake the jousts of old.
The generous heart, the open hand,
The ruddy cheek, the silver hair.
Are mouldering in the silent dust —
All, all is lonely there !'
The same eleventh Earl of Buchan was devotedly at-
tached to Dryburgh. At a short distance from the abbey
he constructed, in 1817, an elegant wire suspension-bridge
over the Tweed, '260 feet in lengtli, and 4 feet 7 inches
between the rails, which was blown dowii about 1850.
His Lordship also erected on his grounds here an Ionic
temple, with a statue of Apollo in the inside, aud
DEYBUEGH ABBEY
DRYTE
a bust of the bard of The Seasons surmounting the
dome. He raised, too, a colossal statue of Sir "William
Wallace on the summit of a steep and thickly-planted
hill ; which, placed on its pedestal 22 Sept. 1814,
the anniversary of the victory at Stirling Bridge in 1297,
was the first AVallace monument in Scotland. ' It
occupies so eminent a situation,' saj'S Mr Chambers,
'that "Wallace, frowning towards England, is visible
even from Berwick, a distance of more than 30 miles.'
The statue is 21^ feet high, and is formed of red sand-
stone, painted white. It was designed by Mr John
Smith, a self-taught sculptor, from a supposed authentic
portrait, which was purchased in France by the father of
the late Sir Philip Ainslie of Pilton. The hero is re-
presented in the ancient Scottish dress and armour, with
a shield hanging from his left hand, and leaning lightly
on his spear with his right. A tablet below bears an
appropriate inscription.
Burns visited the ruins on 10 Slay 1787, "Words-
worth and his sister Dorothy on 20 Sept. 1803 ; and
Sir "Walter Scott, in his Miiistrdsy of the Scottish Border,
gives an interesting account of one who actually dwelt
amongst them — the Nun of Dryburgh. This was a
poor wanderer, who took up her abode, about the middle
of last century, in a vault which during the day she never
quitted. It was supposed, from an account she gave of
a spirit who used to arrange her habitation at night,
during her absence in search of food or charity at the
residences of gentlemen in the neighbourhood, that the
vault was haunted ; and it was long, on this account,
regarded -n-itli terror by the country folk. She never
could be prevailed upon to relate to her friends the
reason why she adopted so singular a course of life.
' But it was believed,' says Sir Walter, ' that it was
occasioned by a vow that, during the absence of a man
to whom she was attached, she would never look upon
the sun. Her lover never returned. He fell during
the civil war of 1745-6, and she never more beheld the
light of da}^. '
The name Dryburgh has been derived by followers of
Stukely from the Celtic darach-bruach, ' bank of the
grove of oaks ; ' and vestiges, we are told, of Pagan
worship have been found in the Bass Hill, a neighbour-
ing eminence, among which was an instrument used for
killing the victims in sacrifice. St Modan, a champion
of the Pioman party, came hither from Ireland in the
first half of the 8th century ; but it is something worse
than guesswork to suppose, with Mr Morton, that he
founded a monastery which ' was probably destroyed by
the ferocious Saxon invaders under Ida, the flame-bearer,
who landed on the coast of Yorkshire in 547, and, after
subduing Northumberland, added this part of Scotland
to his dominions by his victory over the Scoto-Britons
at Cattraeth. ' St Mary's Abbey was founded by Hugh
de Morville, Lord of Lauderdale and Constable of Scot-
land, in 1150.* According to the Chronicle of Melrose,
Beatrix de Beauchamp, wife of De Morville, obtained a
charter of confirmation for the new foundation from
David I. ; and the cemetery was consecrated on St
Martin's Day, 1150, 'that no demons might haunt it ; '
but the community did not come into residence till 1 3
Dec. 1152. The monks or canons regular (to give them
their proper title) were Premonstratensians from Alnnick ;
and their garb was a coarse black cassock, covered by a
white woollen cope, ' in imitation of the angels of heaven,
who are clothed in white garments,' hence their familiar
designation — White Friars. Tradition says, that the
English, under Edward II., in their retreat in 1322,
provoked by the imprudent triumph of the monks in
ringing the church bells at their departure, returned and
burned the abbey in revenge. Bower, however, as Dr
Hill Burton remarks, ' cannot be quite coiTect in saying
that Dryburgh was entirely reduced to powder, since
* On p. 100 of his Iliiifonj and Poetry of the Scotti.sh Border
(187&), Prof. Vcitch remarks that ' Dryburgh was founded a Httle
later [than 1136] by Hugh de Morville, who succeeded his father
in 1159, and died in 1162. Some hold that Morville u-a.s imidicated
in the murder of Thomas d, Beclcet. If so, the founding and rich
endowment of Dryljurgh was probably an expiation for this early
deed of his life.' Hut, surely, Uecket was murdered in 1170.
part of the building yet remaining is of older date than
the invasion.' King Piobcrt the Bruce contributed
liberally towards its repair ; but it has been doubted
whether it ever was fully restored to its original magni-
ficence. Certain flagrant disorders, which occurred here
in the latter half of the 14th century, drew down the
severe censure of Pope Gregory XL upon the inmates.
An alumnus of Dryburgh about this period has been
claimed in the ' Philosophicall Strode,' to whom and
the ' moral Gower ' Chaucer inscribed his I'voilus and
Crcsscidc ; way, Chaucer himself is said to have paid a
visit to Dryburgh. Alas ! the claim is ruthlessly de-
molished by Dr Hill Burton in Billings' AntiqicUies.
AVithin 20 miles of the Border, the abbey was ever ex-
posed to hostile assaults ; and we hear of its burning by
Richard II. in 1385, by Sir Robert Bowes and Sir Bryan
Latoun in 1544, and again by the Earl of Hertford in
1545, in which last year, some months before, James
Stewart, the abbot commendator, had with other chief-
tains crossed the Tweed into Northumberland, and
burned the village of Hornclifi'e, but by the garrisons
of Norham and Berwick had been attacked and driven
back with heavy loss, before he could effect more
damage. This same James Stewart was, through a
natural daughter, the ancestor of the Rev. Henry
Erskine of Chirnside (1624-96) and his two sons, the
founders of the Secession, Ebenezer (1680-1754) and
Ralph (1685-1752). Of these Henry and Ebenezer were
both of them born at Dryburgh, and the former is
buried here.
Annexed to the Crown in 1587, the lands of Dryburgh
M'cre by a charter of 1604 granted to John Erskine,
Earl of Mar, and erected into the lordship and barony
of Cardross. From the Earl's great-grandson, Henrj',
third Lord Cardross, they passed by purchase in 1682 to
Sir Patrick Scott, younger of Aucrum, in 1700 to
Thomas Haliburton of Newmains, in 1767 to Lieut. -Col.
Charles Tod, and finally in 1786 to David Stewart
Erskine, eleventh Earl of Buchan. Tlieir present holder
is his great-great-grandson, George Oswald Harry
Erskine Biber-Erskine, Esq. (b. 1858 ; sue. 1870), who
owns 359 acres in the shire, valued at £977 per annum.
His seat, called Dryburgh Abbey, adjoins the ruins, as
also does Dryburgh House. "The latter, a Scottish
Baronial edifice, enlarged by Messrs Peddie & Kinnear
in 1877, was for some time the residence of the Right
Hon. Charles Baillie, Lord Jerviswoode (1804-79). —
Ord. Sur., sh. 25, 1865. See James Morton's i/oruis<ic
AuTials of Tcviotdale (Edinb. 1832) ; Sir D. Erskine's
Annals and Antiquities of Dryburgh (Kelso, 1836) ; J.
Spottiswoode's Liber S. Marie de Dryburgh (Bannatyne
Club, Edinb., 1847) ; Dryburgh Abbey : its Monks and
its Lords (3d ed., Lond., 1864) ; vol. ii., p. 321, of the
Rev. J. F. Gordon's Monasticon (Glasg. 1868) ; and Jas.
F. Hunnewell's Xftzicfe o/<S'coi!i (Edinb. 1871).
Dry Bum, a rivulet in the E of Haddingtonshire,
issuing from little Black Loch (500 feet), in Spott
parish, on the northern slope of the Eastern Lammer-
muirs, and running 5 J miles east-north-eastward, chiefly
along the boundary between Innerwick and Dunbar
parishes, to the sea in the vicinity of Skalcraw, 4 miles
ESE of Dunbar town.
Dr3^e, a small river of Annandale, Dumfriesshire,
rising in the northern extremity of Hutton parish, at
an altitude of 1900 feet, on the southern slope of Loch
Fell (2256 feet), within 1^ mile of the Selkirkshire
border, and hh miles E by S of Moff'at. Thence it runs
18^ miles southward and south-south-westward, through
the northern half of Hutton, across the eastern wing of
Applegarth, and through the W of Dryfesdale, till it
falls into the Annan at a point 2 miles AV of Lockerbie,
and 140 feet above sea-level. Its basin, above Hutton
church, is hilly moorland ; but, in the middle and lower
parts, is champaign country, nearly all under the plough.
Open to the public, its waters contain abundance of
trout, herlings, and a few salmon. In fair weather
small and singularly liiai)id, it swells after heavy rain
into rapid and roaring freshet, and occasionally, over
breadths of rich loamy soil, cuts out a new channeL
377
DRYTE SANDS
The ancient parish church of Dryfesdalc stood on
Kirkhill, on the SE of the Dryfc. In 1670, both it
and part of its graveyard were swept away, and their
site converted into a sand-bed, by one of the Dryfe's
impetuous inundations. Next year, a new church was
built near the former site, on what was thought a more
secure spot ; yet even this was, in a few years, so
menaced bj- the encroachments of the river, wliich tore
away piece after piece of the graveyard, that, along with
its site, it was finally abandoned. These disasters were
regarded as the verification of an old saying of Thomas
the Rhymer, which a less astute observer of the furiously
devastating power of the Dryfe than he might very
safely have uttered —
' Let spades and shools do what they may,
Dryfe shall tak Drysdale kirk away."
The church of 1670, and even greater part of the ceme-
tery, have now wholly disappeared. A story has long
been current in Annandale, that ' a Dryfesdale man once
buried a wife and married a wife in ae day, ' which fell
out thus. A widower, after mourning for a reasonable
time the spouse whom he had buried in Dryfesdale, was
proceeding, on a wet and stormy day, to take to him-
self a second helpmate, when, crossing the bridge at the
head of the bridal party, he saw the coffin of his former
wife falling from ' the scaur ' into the torrent, and
gliding towards the spot on which he stood. To rescue
it from the water, and re-commit it to the earth was no
long task, after which the wedding proceeded merrily.
The tract along the lowermost reach of the Drj'fe is a
stretch of low level land, consisting of silt and detritus
brought down by the freshets, and called Drj'fe Sands.
The spot is memorable as the scene of a sanguinary
conflict, in Dec. 1593, between the Maxwells and the
Johnstones. The former, though much superior in
numbers, were routed and pursued with the loss of
700 men, including their commander, Lord Maxwell.
Many, on reaching Lockerbie, were there cut down in a
manner so ruthless as to give rise to the proverbial
phrase for a severe wound, ' a Lockerbie lick. ' Two
very aged thorn-trees, the 'Maxwell Thorns,' stood on
the field of conflict, ^ mile below the old churchyard
of Dryfesdale, but about 1845 were swept away by a
freshet— Ord. Sur., shs. 16, 10, 1864. See pp. 232-234
of Robert Chambers' Popular llkymes of Scotland (ed.
1870).
Dryfe Sands. See Dryfe.
Dryfesdale (popularly Drysdale), a parish in the middle
of Annandale, Dumfriesshire, containing in the S the
village of Bexi;.\ll, and towards the centre the town of
LocKEnBiE, whose station on the main line of the Cale-
donian is 25| miles NW of Carlisle, and 75J S by W of
Edinburgh. It is bounded N and NE by Applegarth,
E by Hutton, SE by Tundergarth, S by St Mungo, SW
by Dalton, and W by Lochmaben. Its utmost length,
from NNE to SSW, is 7\ miles ; its breadth, from E to
W, varies between 1 mile and 4| miles ; and its area is
10,372 acres, of which 1402 are water. From below
Applegarth church to just below Daltonhook the Annan
winds 9 miles south-by-eastward, tracing, roughly or
closely, the Lochmaben and Dalton boundaries ; and
Dryfe Water, its atlluent, flows 4 miles south-westward
on the Afiplcgarth border and through the north-
western interior. Along the Hutton border Cohuie
Water runs 1| mile southward to the Water of Milk,
which itself meanders 2| miles south-westward along all
the Tundergarth boundary. In the flat S, the surface,
where the Annan quits this parish, sinks to less than 140
feet above sea-level, thence rising north -north-eastward
to 234 feet at Bengali Hill, 391 near Lockerbie Hill, 733
at Whitewoollcn Hill, 708 at Sloda Hill, 734 at Croft-
head Hill, and 774 on Newfield Moor — heights that
command a very extensive view. The rocks of the hills
are eruptive and Silurian ; those of the plains include a
very soft sandstone and a dark-coloured limestone. The
soil, on most of the hills, is rich enough to be arable ;
on much of the low flat grounds, is light and dry ; and
along the streams, is deep, fertile, alluvial loam. About
378
DRYMEN
350 acres are pastoral or waste, 250 are imder wood, and
all the rest of the land is either regularly or occasionally
in tillage. Vestiges of strong old towers are at Nether-
place, Old Walls, Kirkton Mains, Myrehead, and Dal-
tonhook. Remains of eight camps, some square or
Roman, others circular or Caledonian, occur in difl'erent
places, chiefly on eminences ; and two of them, Roman
and Caledonian, confront each other on hills to the
NE of Bengali village. Traces exist, too, of a Roman
road, running northward from England by way of
Brunswark Hill, and sending off a westward branch to
Nithsdale. Mansions are Lockerbie House and Dryfe-
holm ; and 6 proprietors hold each an annual value of
£500 and upwards, 15 of between £100 and £500, 15 of
from £50 to £100, and 35 of from £20 to £50. Dryfes-
dale is in the presbytery of Lochmaben and synod of
Dumfries ; the living is worth £222. The churches are all
at Lockerbie, where Dryfesdale public school, a Gothic
building erected in 1875 at a cost of £4500, with accom-
modation for 600 children, had (1880) an average attend-
ance of 407, and a grant of £323, 18s. Valuation (1860)
£10,881, (1882) £18,833, 2s. 6d. Pop. (1801) 1893,
(1831) 2283, (1861) 2509, (1871) 2825, (1881) 2971.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 10, 1864.
Drygate. See Glasgow.
Drygrange, an estate, with a mansion, in ^lelrose
parish, Roxburghshire, on the right bank of Leader
Water, f mile above its influx to the Tweed, and 2J
miles ENE of Melrose. The mansion, a fine old build-
ing, amid ancestral trees, occupies the site of the chief
granary of j\Ielrose Abbey. Granted by the Abbey to
David Lithgow in the reign of James V., the estate has
come, through several hands, to Sir George Hector
Leith-Buchanan, seventh Bart, since 1775 (b. 1833 ;
sue. 1842), who married in 1861 the only daughter of
the late Thomas Tod, Esq. of Drygrange, and who holds
1315 acres in the shire, valued at £1724 per annum.
Drygrange Bridge, across the Tweed near the Leader's
confluence, takes over the road from Melrose and St
Boswells to Lauder, and commands a beautiful view of —
' Ercildoune and Cowdenknowes,
Where Homes had ance commanding ;
And Drygrange wi' the milk-white ewes,
'Twixt Tweed and Leader standing.'
Dryhope, a burn, a hill, and a Border peel-tower in
the A\' of Yarrow parish, Selkirkshire. The burn rises
on Deepslake Knowe (1717 feet), and runs 2g miles south-
south-eastward to Yarrow Water, at a jioint 2i furlongs
NE of the foot of St Mary's Loch. The hill, called
Dryhope Rig, flanks the right side of the upper course
of the burn, and has an altitude of 1712 feet above sea-
level. Dryhope Tower, crowning a slight eminence on
the right bank of the burn, 5 furlongs N of the Loch,
and 15^ miles WSW of Selkirk, was one of the strongest
peel-houses in Ettrick Forest — square and lofty, com-
manding a glorious view up the vale of the Yarrow and
over the Loch of the Lowes away to the Moffatdale Hills.
Here, about 1550, was born the 'Flower of Yarrow,'
^lary Scott, the bride of Wat Scott of Harden, whom
her father engaged to find in inan's and horse meat at
his tower of Dryhope for a year and a day, in return for
the profits of the first Michaelmas moon. Five barons
pledged themselves for the observance of the contract,
which was signed for all parties by a notary public,
none of the seven being able to write his name. Wat
either succeeded or ousted his father-in-law, for on 13
July 1592, James VI. issued at Peebles a warrant to
demolish the fortalicc of Dryhope, ' pertaining to Walter
Scott of Harden, who was art and part of the late
treasonable fact perpetrate against his highness' own
person at Falkland. ' Demolished, however, Dryhope was
certainly not, for the tower, though roofless, is still in
good preservation — the property still of a Scott, the
Duke of Buccleuch.— On^. Sur., sh. 16, 1864.
Drjnnen, a village and a parish of SW Stirlingshire.
The village stands 1§ mile N by W of Drymcn station,
on the Forth and Clyde Junction section of the North
British, this being 6^ miles ENE of Balloch and 23^
WSW of Stirling ; and, forming a good centre for visit-
DRYMEN
DUBTON
ing some of the fine scenery in the W of Stirlingshire,
it has a post office under Glasgow, with money order,
savings' bank, and railway telegraph departments, a
branch of the Royal Bank, and fairs for cattle, sheep,
and horses on the last "Wednesday of April, 17 May, and
the Friday before the first Doune November market, for
hiring on 21 May and the first Friday of November.
The parish is bounded N by Aberfoyle and Port of
Monteith, in Perthshire ; E and SE by Kippen, Balfron,
.and Killearn ; S and SW by Dumbarton and Kilmaro-
nock, in Dumbartonshire ; and W by Buchanan. Its
utmost length, from N by E to S by W, is 11 miles;
its breadth varies between 6-\ furlongs and lOJ miles ;
and its area is 30,973:^ acres, of which 123 are water.
ExDRiCK Water, entering from Killearn, flows 7f miles
southward and west-north-westward ' in many a loop
and link ' along the Killearn and Kilmaronock borders
and across the southern interior ; from the N it is
joined here by Altquhar, from the SW by Catter,
Burn. Duchray and Kelty Waters, again, both head-
streams of the Forth, trace 4 and 2| miles of the Aber-
foyle border ; and the Forth itself winds 3f miles east-
ward along all the boundary with Port of Monteith.
The drainage belongs thus partly to the Clyde and
partly to the Forth ; but the ' divide ' between the two
river systems is marked by no lofty height. Along the
Endrick the surface sinks to about 30 feet above sea-
level, along the Forth to 40 ; and the highest point in
Drymen between is Bat a' Charchel (750 feet), whilst
the road from DrjTuen village to Buckl3-vie nowhere
exceeds 310 feet. In the southern wing of the parish
are Meikle Caldon (602 feet) and Cameron Muir (530) ;
in the north-western, Drum of Clasmorei(577), Maol
Ruadh (624), *Gualann (1514), Elrig (683), Maol an
larairne (720), and the * south-eastern shoulder (1750) of
Bexvraick, where asterisks mark those heights that rise
on the Buchanan boundary. The tract along the Endrick,
a narrow vale, in places scarcely a mile in width, con-
trasts strongly with the wide desolate moorlands on either
side of it, and presents in some parts very beautiful scenery.
A stretch of about 3 miles by 2h, to the S of this valley,
mainly consists of Cameron Muir, which passes into
junction with the western skirts of the Lennox Hills ;
and the region to the N of the vallej^, measuring about
8^ miles by 9, and bisected by the watershed between
the Clyde and Forth, is almost all either moss or moor
or mountain, its north-eastern portion forming part of
Flanders Moss, which, lying along the Forth, has been
in recent years extensively reclaimed. The greater por-
tion of the arable land lies at elevations of from 40 to
250 feet above sea-level ; but here and there cultivation
has been carried as high as 450 feet. The soil ranges
from fertile clay and rich brown loam, through nearly
all gradations, to moorish earth and spongy moss ; but
the commonest soU is poor and tilly, over a cold retentive
bottom. About 9944 acres are in tillage, 1350 pas-
ture, 556 under wood, and 21,700 waste. Duchray
Castle is an interesting antiquity. A large cairn, in
which sarcophagi and human bones were found, was on
East Cameron farm ; and remains of a Roman foit,
known as Garfarran Peel, are on Garfarran farm, at the
western extremity of Flanders JIoss. Drumbeg, near
the parish church, was long but falsely believed to be
the birthplace of John Napier of Merchiston (1550-1617),
whose patrimonial inheritance was partly situate here,
and who at the house of Gartness, on the Endrick, close
to a waterfall, the Pot of Gartness, worked out much
of his famous treatise on logarithms. Mansions are
Endrickbank and Park House. The Duke of Montrose
and Wm. C. G. Bontine, Esq. of Gartmore, own land
respectively to the yearly value of £4000 and £2053 ;
and 8 other proprietors hold each an annual value of
£500 and upwards, 12 of between £100 and £500, 8 of
from £50 to £100, and 13 of from £20 to £50. Drymen
is in the presbytery of Dumbarton and synod of Glas-
gow and Ayr ; th»; living is worth £368. The parish
„hurch (1771 ; 400 sittings) stands near the village,
where also is a U.P. church (1819). Two public schools,
AucHiNTEOiG and Drymen, with respective accommoda-
tion for 56 and 120 children, had (ISSO) an average
attendance of 20 and 75, and grants of £33 and £69,
19s. 2d. Valuation (1860) £11,508, (1882) £16,455,
7s. 3d., plus £8671 for railway. Pop. (1801) 1607,
(1831) 1690, (1861) 1619, (1871) 1405, (1881) 1431.—
Orel. Sitr., shs. 38, 30, 1871-66.
Drynie, an estate, with a mansion, in Kilmuir- Wester
parish, Ross-shire, near the W shore of the Moray Firth,
4 miles N bj' E of Inverness.
Drynoch, a burn in Bracadale parish, Isle of Skye,
Inverness-shire, running 4 J miles westward to the head
of Loch Harport.
Drysdale. See Dryfesdale.
Duag, an alpine streamlet in the W of Blair Athole
parish, Perthshire, rising near the watershed of the
central Grampians, and running impetuously 2| mile.s
south-south-eastward to the Garry in the vicinity of
Dalnaspidal.
Dualt, a bum of Strathblane and KQleam parishes,
Stirlingshire, rising on Auchineden HiU, at an alti-
tude of 830 feet, and ninning 3 miles north-north-east-
ward, chiefly along the mutual boundary of the parishes,
till, near Killearn House, it falls into the Caruock, a sub-
afiluent of the Endrick. In a deep, wooded glen a little
above its mouth, it forms, with several smaller falls, one
beautiful cascade of 60 feet.—Ord. Sur., sh. 30, 1866.
Duard or Rudha Dubh Ard, a headland (91 feet) to
the N of the entrance of Loch Broom, XW Ross-shire,
opposite Horse island, and 8 miles NW of Ullapool.
Duart, a small bay and a ruined castle in Torosay
parish, ]\Iull island, Argyllshire. The bay, opening at
the north-eastern extremity of Mull, opposite the SW
end of Lismore, measures 1 by f mile. The castle, 4J
miles N of Achnacraig, stands on a bold headland at the
E side of the bay, and commands one of the grandest
prospects in the Western Highlands. Dating from some
unknown period of the Norsemen's invasion, and first
coming into record in 1390 as the stronghold of the
Macleans of Mull, it comprises a massive square tower
(75 X 72 feet) of seemingly the 14th century, and a range
of less ancient buildings. In 1523 Lachlan Maclean of
Duart exposed his wife, the Earl of Argyll's daughter,
on a tide-swept islet between Lismore and Mull, the
' Lady's Rock,' whence she was rescued by a passing
boat — an episode dramatised in Joanna Baillie's Family
Legend, and only one out of the many tragedies wit-
nessed by Duart's walls in the endless feud between the
Macdonalds and the Macleans, from whom the estate
passed to the Argyll family in the latter half of the 17th
centurj-. Modern Duart House, IJ mile NNW of
Achnacraig, is the seat of Arbuthnot Charles Guthrie,
Esq. (b. 1825), who owns 23,012 acres in the shire,
valued at £3217 per annum.
Dubbieside or Innerleven, a coast village on the E
border of Wemyss parish, Fife, at the right side of the
mouth of tlie river Leven, opposite Leven town. It
communicates with Leven by a suspension-bridge over
the river, shares in its industries, and has a U. P. church.
Dubbs Cauldron, a pretty cascade on Wamphray
Water, in Wamphray parish, NE Dumfriesshii-e.
Dubcapon. See Duxkeld and Dowally.
Dubford, a hamlet in Gamrie parish, NE Banffshire,
1 mile S of Gardenstown, and 7^ miles E of Banft", under
which it lias a post oSice.
Dubh Loch. See Douloch.
Dublin Row, a village on the N border of Lesmahagow
parish, Lanarkshire, almost continuous with Kirkfield-
bank. If mile W of Lanark.
Dub of Hass. See Dalbeattie.
Dubston, a hamlet in Gamrie parish, Banffshire, near
Duijfukd.
Dubton, a railway junction in the NW corner of
Montrose parish, Forfarshire, on the Scottish North-
Eastern section of the Caledonian, at the deflection of
the branch lino to Montrose, near Hillside village, 3
miles NNW of Montrose. Dubton House, in its vicinity,
is the seat of Thomas Renny-Tailyour, Esq. (b. 1812 ;
sue. 1849), who holds 557 acres in the sliire, valued at
£2081, 7s. per annum.
379
DUCHALL
Duchall, an estate, with a mansion of 1768, in Kil-
malcolm parish, Renfrewshire, on the right bank of the
Grj-fe, If mile SSW of Kilmalcolm village. From the
IStli century the estate, with a castle standing IJ mile
to the WNW, belonged to the Lyles, the seventh of
whose line was created Lord Lyle about 1446. The
fourth and last Lord sold it a century later to Jolin
Porterfield of Porterlield, wliose descendants held it for
fully 300 years. It is now the property of Sir Michael
Shaw-Stewart of Ahdc.owan.
Duchal Law, the eastern summit (725 feet) of the
Braes of Glenitfer in Abbey parish, Renfrewshire, 3^
miles S of Paisley. It commands an extensive and very
lovely view.
Duchray, an estate, with an old castle, in Drymen
parish, Stirlingshire. The castle, on the right bank of
Duchray Water, 3 miles "WSW of Aberfoyle hamlet, and
10 NW of Bucklp-ie station, was formerly a stronghold
of those Grahams who in 1671 fought the Earl of Airth
upon Aberfoyle bridge, and is now beautifully mantled
with i^-y. Its orchard contains some aged filbert trees,
producing a peculiarly large and fine-flavoured nut.
Duchray Water, the southern head-stream of the river
Forth, in Stirling and Perth shires, rises, at an altitude
of 3000 feet, on the N side of Ben Lomond (3192), and
thence winds 13| miles north-north-eastward, south-
eastward, and east-north-eastward through the interior
or along the borders of Buchanan, Drjnnen, and Aber-
foyle parishes, till, at a point 1 mile W of Aberfoyle
hamlet, it unites with the Avondhu to form the Laggan.
See Foivni.—Ord. Sur., sh, 38, 1871.
Ducraig, a rocky islet of Dunfermline parish, Fife, in
the Firth of Forth, ^ mile SW of Rosyth Castle, and 2f
miles NW of Queensferry. The depth of water adjacent
to it, at tlie lowest ebb tide, is 21 feet.
Duddingston, a village and a coast parish of Mid-
lothian. Tlie village, Ig mile WSW of Portobello
station, and 2^ miles SE by E of Edinburgh Post Office
through the Queen's Park, stands, at an altitude of
150 feet above sea-level, at the south-eastern base of
Arthur's Seat and near the north-eastern shore of Dud-
dingston Loch. With background of hill, and foreground
of park and manse and antique kirk and lake, it is
itself a pretty little place, consisting of a small back
street and a single row of plain good old-fashioned
villas. At it are an inn, a post office under Edinburgh,
and a plastered house to the E in which Prince Charles
Edward is said to have passed the night before the
battle of Prestonpans ; whilst at Duddingston Mills,
a hamlet J mile nearer Portobello, are a public
school and Cauvin's Hospital. A plain white villa-
like building this, founded by Louis Cauvin, French
teacher in Edinburgh, and afterwards farmer at Dud-
dingston, who, dying in 1825, bequeathed his pro-
perty for the maintenance and education of the sons of
poor but honest teachers and farmers, or, failing such,
master-printers, booksellers, and farm servants. It was
opened in 1833, and gives instruction to 17 boys in
classics, modern languages, mathematics, etc.
Tlie parish, containing also the town of Portobello
and Joppa, and the village of Easter Duddingston, is
bounded N by South Leith, NE by the Firth of Forth,
S by Liberton, SW by St Cuthberts, and W by Canon-
gate. Its utmost length is 3g miles from ENE to WSW,
viz., from the Firth, at the mouth of Burdiehouse Burn,
to the old Dalkeith road above Echo Bank ; its utmost
width is li mile ; and its area is 1899^ acres, of which
143 are foreshore and 25^ water. Burdiehouse or
Brunstane Burn winds 2 miles east-north-eastward to
the Firth along the Liberton border, which westwards,
near Peffermill, is traced for ^ mile by the straightened
Burn of Braid ; and the I5uni of Braid, or Figgate, or
Jordan (its aliases are many), thereafter Hows 2^ miles
north-eastward to the Firth at the Is W end of Porto-
bello, through Duildiiigston Park and the wooded dell
of Duddingston Mills. Reed-fringed Duddingston Loch,
580 yards long, and from 70 to 2G7 yards wide, was
cleared of its weeds, and thereby greatly improved, in
the summer of 1881. It is truly a beautiful little sheet
380
DUDDINGSTON
of water, in summer with its swans and waterfowl, in
winter with its crowds of skaters and curlers, and
always with the church, the boathouse tower, and the
bold Hangman's Craig. The coast-line is low, though
rocky to the E, whose boulder-clay mussel-beds gave
name to Musselburgh ; and the shore is fringed with a
terrace or raised sea-beach that marks the former margin
of the Firth. Inland the surface is gently undulating
but nowhere hilly, attaining its highest point (300
feet) at the eastern shoulder of Dunsajjie Rock, and
everywhere so dominated by Arthur's Seat (822 feet) as
to look flatter than it really is. The rocks are mainly
carboniferous, in the W belonging to the Calciferous
Sandstone series, next to the Carboniferous Limestone
series, and to the coal-measures in the furthest E, and
jielding coal, sandstone, limestone, and brick clay.
The soil is loamy, resting on strong clay, towards the
SE ; light and sandy along the coast ; and elsewhere a
brownish earth of no gi'eat natural fertility. Less than
two centuries since the entire parish was an unreclaimed
moor, covered with sand, and diversified only by the
stunted growth of the Figgate AVhins, that forest where
Wallace is said to have mustered his forces for the siege
of Berwick, and Gibson of Durie to have been pounced
upon by Christie's Will.* But about 1688, the ONATier of
Prestonfield, Sir James Dick, became Lord Provost of
Edinburgh ; and, better acquainted than his contempo-
raries with the fertilising powers of city manure, availed
himself of ready and thankful permission to enrich there-
with the sterile soil of his estate. So successful were his
policy and example that, arid and worthless as Dudding-
ston had been, it ranks now among the most highly-
rented land in the United Kingdom, with its lush grass-
meadows and steam-tilled cornfields. In 1745, James
Hamilton, eighth Earl of Abercorn (1712-89), bought
from the Duke of Argyll the barony of Duddingston,
and here, in 1768, built Duddingston House, a Grecian
pile designed by Sir William Chambers, which cost,
with its pleasure-grounds, £30,000, and now stands in a
finely-wooded park. His descendant and namesake, the
first Duke and tenth Earl of Abercorn (b. 1811 ; sue.
1818), holds 1500 acres in Midlothian, valued at £7400
jier annum. Prestonfield is the other chief mansion ;
and 4 proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 52 of between £100 and £500, 125 of from
£50 to £100, and 130 of from £20 to £50. The Fish-
wives' Causey, an obscure by-road near Portobello
brickworks, is an undoubted fragment of the Roman
road between Inveresk and Cramond ; and over Burdie-
house Burn, leading up to Brunstane House, is a
beautiful old bridge, Roman so-called ; whilst from the
bed or shores of Duddingston Loch bronze implements
have been dredged or dug up in such numbers as to
suggest that in the Age of Bronze an extensive manufac-
ture of weapons must have been carried on at its margin.
In Duddingston died Sir John Hay (lCOO-54), a senator of
the College of Justice ; in Duddingston was educated
William Smellie (1740-95), the }irinter-naturalist ; and
in Duddingston, son of a farmer at Clearburn, was born
the Rev. Thomas Gillespie (1708-74), founder of the
Relief body. But the name associated most closely with
the parish is that of the great landscape painter, its
minister from 1805, the Rev. John Thomson (1778-
1840) — 'Thomson of Duddinston, heavy and strong,'
as Dr John Brown calls him — who at the manse here
was visited by Sir Walter Scott, John Clerk of Eldin,
Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, Turner, Wilkie, etc. In the
presbytery of Edinburgh and synod of Lothian and
Tweeddale, this parish is divided ecclesiastically into
Portobello and Duddingston, the latter a living wortli
£440. The church, with chancel, nave, N transept,
low square tower, 350 sittings, and organ, dates from
the Korman era of church architecture, and under
William the Lyon (1166-1214) was acquired by the
mouks of Kelso Abbej'. It has been grievously knocked
about and added to at various periods, a window of the
transept bearing date 1621, but it still retains a
* Falsely, since the seizure took j)lace near liis own seat in Fifo
(Hill Uurton, Hint. 6c(/(., vi. 17, cd. 1S70). See DiRii:.
DUDDINGSTON, EASTER
beautiful chancel arch and S doorway of Romanesque
workmanship ; and at tlie churchyard gate the old
' loupin'-on-stane ' is still to be seen, with the iron jougs
hanging beside. The public school, with accommoda-
tion for 147 children, had (18S0) an average attendance
of 57, and a grant of £40, 14s. Valuation (1SS2)
£14,450, exclusive of Portobello, but including £2604
for railways. Pop. (1801) 1003, (1831) 3862, (1861)
5159, (1871) 6369, (1881) 7815, of whom 1124 were in
Duddingston ecclesiastical parish. — Ord. Siir. sh. 32,
1857. See J. W. Small's Leaves from my Skctch-Books
(Edinb. ISSO).
Duddingston, Easter, a village in Duddingston
parish, Midlothian, 1:| mile ESE of Portobello station.
Dudhope. See Duxdee.
Dudwick, an estate in Ellon parish, Aberdeenshire,
4 mik\s XXE of Ellon village. The semi-castellated
mansion on it was the seat of General James King
(1589-1652), the Swedish veteran, who, by Charles I.,
was created Lord Eythin or Ythan in 1642. Having
long been a farmhouse, it was demolished within the last
twenty years. Dudwick Hill (572 feet) is one of the
highest points in Buchan.
Duflf House, a seat of the Earl of Fife iu Banff parish,
Banffshire, near the middle of an extensive plain, on
the left bank of the river Deveron, 3 furlongs S by E of
the town of Banff. Built in 1740-45 by "WiUiam Lord
Braco, after designs by the elder Adam, at a cost of
£70,000, it is a large quadrangular four-storied edifice,
in the Roman style, with balustrades and domical tower-
like projections at the four angles, and is adorned ex-
ternally with statues and vases. Two wings, that would
have given it an oblong shape, were never added.
Within is a fine collection of paintings, comprising
portraits of the Constable de Bourbon by Titian, of
Charles I., Henrietta Maria, Strafford, Lord Herbert,
and the Countess of Pembroke by Yan Dyck, of Mrs
Abingdon and the Duchess of Gordon by Sir Joshua
RejTiolds, of the fourth Earl of Fife by Raeburn, and
of the late Countess by Sir Francis Grant, beside pictures
by Quentin Matsys, Murillo, Cuyp, Ruysdael, Snyders,
"Wouvermans, Doraenichino, Holbein, Velasquez, etc.
The Library, 70 feet long, contains over 15,000 volumes,
and is rich in 17th century pamphlets and Spanish
works, collected mostly by James, fourth Earl (1776-
1851), during his Peninsular campaign. The whole
was reorganised and catalogued by Mr A. Robertson in
1881. The Armoury, among other relics, contains three
Andrea Ferraras, and the target and huge two-handed
sword of the freebooter M'Pherson, who was hanged at
Banff in 1701. In 1780 "William Nicol and Burns
went over Duff House, where the latter was greatly
taken with portraits of the exiled Stuarts. The finely-
wooded park, extending nearly 3 miles along the Deveron
from Banff to Alvah Bridge, comprises parts of two
counties and four parishes, and measures 14 miles in
circumference ; abounds in drives and walks of singular
beauty ; and includes the site of St Mary's Carmelite
friary, founded before 1324, which site is now occupied
by the Gothic mausoleum of the Fife family. Alex-
ander-WiUiam-George DufiF, sixth Earl Fife since 1759
(b. 1849 ; sue. 1879), holds 152,820 acres in Banff, Elgin,
and Aberdeen shires, valued at £72,813 per annum. —
Ord. Snr., sh. 96, 1876. See James Imlach's History of
Banff (Banif, 1868).
Duff-Kinnel, a rivulet in the NW of Annandale, Dum-
friesshire. It rises in Kirkpatrick-Juxta parish, and
runs about 4 miles south-eastward, chiefly along the
boundary between that parish and Johnstone, to a con-
fluence with the Kinnel, a little above Raehills.
DufiFtown, a small police burgh in Jlortlach parish,
Banffshire, 1 mile S of a station on the Great North of
Scotland railway, this being 4 miles SE of Craigellachie
Junction, 10^ SW of Keith, and 64 NW of Aberdeen.
"With Conval and Ben Rinnes to the S'W, Auchendoun
Castle to the SE, and Balvenie Castle to the N, it stands,
600 feet above sea-level, within ^ mile of the Fid-
dich's left bank ; and founded in 1817 by James Duff,
fourth Earl of Fife, it is laid out in the form of a crooked-
DUFFUS
armed cross, with a square and a tower in the centre
At it are a post office, ^vith money order, savings' bank,
and railway telegraph departments, branches of the
North of Scotland and the Aliordeen Town and County
Banks (the latter rebuilt in 1880), 7 insurance agencies,
an hotel, a distiller}^, and limeworks. Cattle fairs are
held on the third Thursday of May and September, and
the fourth Thursday of all the other ten months ; feeing
fairs on the "Wednesday before 26 May, the third "Wed-
nesday of July, and the "Wednesday before 22 Novem-
ber. MoRTLAcn parish church stands 3^ furlongs to
the S ; and at the village itself are a Free church, the
Roman Catholic church of Our Lady of the Assumption
(1825 ; 200 sittings), and St Michael's Episcopal church
(1880; 130 sittings), a pretty little Gothic building this.
Queen Victoria di'ove through Dufftown in the summer
of 1867. Its municipal constituency numbered 230 in
1882, when the annual value of real property was £2300.
Pop. (1841) 770, (1851) 998, (1861) 1249, (1871) 1250,
(1881) 1252.— Orf^. Sur., sh. 85, 1876.
Duffus, a vdllage and a coast parish of Elginshire. A
neat clean place, Iving 1 mile inland, the village of New
Duffus is 4i miles" E by S of Burghead station, 2 ESE
of Hopeman, and 5| NW of Elgin, under which it has
a post office. Pop. (1S61) 159, '(1871) 170, (1881) 161.
The parish, containing also the small towns and vil-
lages of BUKGHEAD, HOPEMAX, CUMMIXGSTOX, and
Roseisle, is bounded W and NW by the Moray Firth,
NE by Drainie, SE by New Spynie, and SW by
Alves. Its length, from E to W, varies between 3|
and 6^ miles ; its utmost breadth, from N to S, is 3J
miles ; and its area is 9865^ acres, of which 1 is
water, and 386f are foreshore. The coast-line, 7^
miles long, is fringed to the W, along Burghead Bay,
by low sandy links ; elsewhere, at Burghead and along
the north-western shore, it is almost everywhere rocky,
in places precipitous, to the E being pierced by some
large and remarkable caves. Inland, the flat-looking
surface attains 225 feet at Clarkly Hill, 235 near Inver-
ugie, 241 near Burnside, and 287 at Roseisle, thence
again gently declining southward and south-eastward to
only 32 feet at Bridgend and 11 at Unthank. The sea-
board, to the breadth of J mile, was once a rich culti-
vated plain ; but ha\'ing been desolated by sand drift,
in a similar manner to the Culbin Sands, was afterwards
reclaimed for either pasture or the plough, and now
presents an appearance of meagi-e fertility. The rest of
the land is all arable. No river touches the parish,
scarcely even a rivulet ; and springs are few and scanty.
Sandstone and limestone occur, and are quarried. The
soil, in the E, is a deep and fertile claj', like that of tlie
Carse of Gowrie ; in the W, is a rich black earth, oc-
casionally mixed with sand, but generally yielding first-
rate crops. So that, not from its situation, but from its
great fertility, this parish has been called the Heart of
Morayshire. Fully five-eighths of the entire area are in
tillage, about one-third is pasture, and some 350 acres
are under wood. Duffus Castle, If mile SE of the vil-
lage, was built in the time of David II., and, crowning
a mound near the NW shore of Spynie Loch, was sur-
rounded with a moat, and approached by a drawbridge ;
its walls, 5 feet in thickness, consisted of rough, cemented
stones. Belonging originally to the family of De Jloravia,
it afterwards was long the seat of the family of Suther-
land, who bore the title of Lords Duffus from 1650 till
1843 ; and it is now a picturesque ruin. An obelisk,
falsely thought to have been erected by Malcolm II. in
commemoration of a victory over the Danes under Camus,
stood till within the present century near Kaim ; and
several tumuli are on the heights at the shore, whilst
sarcophagi have been exhumed on the estate of Inverugie.
Duffus House, 3 furlongs ESE of the village, is the
seat of Sir Archibald Dunbar of Northficld, sixth Bart.
since 1698 (b. 1803 ; sue. 1847), who owns 1828 acres
in the shire, valued at £3414 per annum. Another
mansion is Inveuxigie ; and the whole parish is divided
among 27 proprietors, 7 holding each an annual value
of £500 and upwards, 1 of from £50 to £100, and 19 of
from £20 to £50. In the presbytery of Elgin and
381
DUGALSTONE
synod of Moray, this parish is divided ecclesiastically
iuto Dutfus and Hurghead, the former worth £353. Its
church is a handsome edifice of 1868, with a spire.
Four jiublic schools — Burghead, Dutlus, Hopeman, and
Roseisle — with respective accommodation for 351, 126,
362, and 38 children, had (ISSO) an average attendance
of 256, 93, 240, and 23, and grants of £204, 16s. 6d.,
£97, 15s. 6d., £198, 19s., and £29, 12s. 6d. Valuation
(18S1) £13,949, 19s. Pop. (1801) 1339, (1831) 2308,
(1861) 3308, (1871) 3716, (1881) 3985.— Ord. Sicr., sli.
95, 1876.
Dugalstone. See Dougalston.
Dugden. See Dogden.
Duich, a beautiful sea-loch in the SW corner of Ross-
shire, deflecting from the head of Loch Alsh, and striking
5i miles south-eastward along the SW side of Kintail
parish. From a width of J mile at its entrance it ex-
pands to IJ at the head ; and it takes up roads from
the coast, along its northern and southern shores, to
respectively Strathaffric and Glenshiel. Its screens con-
sist of mountains, rising right from its margin, partly
in bold acclivities, and partly in gentle undulating
ascents, clothed with verdure or variegated with rocks
and trees. Within 6 miles of its head stand Ben
Attow (3383 feet) and Scuir na Cairan (3771).
Duirinish or Durinish, a parish in the W of Skye,
Inverness-shire, containing the village of Dunvegan,
on Loch FoUart, 23i miles W by N of Portree, under
which it has a post office, with money order, savings'
bank, and telegraph departments. Extending from the
Grishinish branch of Loch Snizort on the N to Loch
Bracadale on the S, it is bounded on its E or landward
side bj' the parishes of Snizort and Bracadale ; its
length is 19, and its breadth 16, miles ; whilst its coast-
line, measured along the bays and headlands, is about
80 miles ; and its area must be fully 100 square miles.
Sea-lochs run far up into the interior, cutting it iuto an
assemblage of peninsulas ; and are flanked with grounds
rising in some places rapidly, in other places gently,
from their shores. The headlands are mostly huge lofty
masses of rocks, which rest on bases descending sheer
into deep water ; and the coast of the northern district
is a continuous alternation of vertical clifi's and low
shores, striking enough when first beheld, but wearying
the eye by its monotony. The shores and islets of
Loch Follart or Dunvegan Loch, with Dunvegan Castle
for centre-piece, form a grandly picturesque landscape ;
and the coast, from Dunvegan Head to Loch Bracadale,
consists for the most part of clifi's, very various in
height and slope, many of them lofty and almost per-
pendicular, and nearly all of such geological composition
as to present a singular striped appearance. Some
isolated pyramidal masses of rock, similar to the ' stacks'
of Caithness and Shetland, stand oS" the coast, and
figure wildly in the surrounding waters, the most strik-
ing and romantic of these being known as Macleod's
Maiden'.s. The northern district consists of Vatemisli
peninsula, and constitutes the quoad sacra parish of
Halen ; the other districts may be comprised in three —
Glendale, extending westward from a line near the head
of Dunvegan Loch ; Kilmuir, extending southward from
Dunvegan Loch to Loch Bay, and containing the parish
church ; and Arnisort, extending eastward from Kilmuir
to the boundaries with Snizort and Bracadale. The
only mountains are the Greater and Lesser Helvel or
Halivail, in the western peninsula, which, rising to an
altitude of 1700 feet above sea-level, and ascending in
regular gradient, with verdant surface, are truncated at
the top into level summits, and to seamen are familiar
as Macleod's Tables. Hills occur in two series, but are
neither very high nor in any other way conspicuous.
Numerous caverns, natural arches, and deep crevices
are in the cliffs of the coast. Issay Island is nearly
2 miles long, and has a fertile soil and a considerable
population ; but all the other islands are small and
uninhabited. The rocks are chiefly trap ; but they in-
clude beds of fossilifcrous limestone, thin strata of very
fioft .sandstone, and thin scams of liard brittle coal.
Zeolites of every variety are very plentiful ; steatite
382
DULL
aboivnds, especially about Dunvegan ; and augite and
olivine are found. The soil in a few tracts is clayey ;
and in still fewer is gravelly, in most parts being either
peat moss or a mixture of peat moss and disintegi'ated
trap. DuNVEG.vx Castle is at once the chief mansion
and antiquity. Other mansions are Vaternish, Orvost,
and Grieshernish ; and other antiquities are fifteen Dan-
ish forts, several tumuli, and a number of subterranean
hiding-iilaces. Maclcod of ilacleod is owner of half the
parish, 3 other proprietors holding each an annual value
of £500 and ujjwards, and 3 of between £100 and £500.
In the presbytery of Skye and synod of Glenelg, this
parish is divided ecclesiastically into Halen and Duir-
inish, the latter being a living worth £208. Its church,
built in 1832, contains nearly 600 sittings ; and there is
also a Free church of Duhrinish. The eight public schools
of Borreraig, Borrodale, Colbost, Dunvegan, Edinbain,
Knockbreck, Lochbeag, and Valtin Bridge, and the
Free Church school of Arnisort, with total accommoda-
tion for 923 children, had (1880) an average attendance
of 477, and grants amoimting to £413, Os. 5d. Valua-
tion (1881) £7683, 12s. Pop. (1801) 3327, (1831) 4765,
(1861) 4775, (1871) 4422, (1881) 4317.
Duirinnis or Duimish, a grassy islet (3 x IJ furl.) of
Ardchattan parish, Argyllshire, in Loch Etive, opposite
Bunawe. It contains a dwelling-house, and is con-
nected with the mainland by a stone bulwark.
Duisky, a village in Kilmallie parish, Argyllshii-e,
on the soutliern shore of Upper Loch Eil, 7 miles W
by N of Fort William.
Duke's Bowling-Green. See Argyll's Bowling-
Green.
Dulaich, Loch. See Doulas.
Dulcapon. See Dunkeld and Dowally.
Dulcie-Bridge. See Dulsie-Bridge.
Dull, a village and a parish of central Perthshire.
The village stands in the Strath of Appin, f mile from the
Tay's left bank, and 3^ miles W of Aberfeldy ; an ancient
place, but now decayed and small, it retains in its centre
a ponderous cruciform pillar, one of four that marked the
limits of the ancient sanctuary of Dull. Two of them, re-
moved to form an ornamental gateway to the house of the
local factor, have been recently placed for preser^^ation
in the old chm-ch of Weem ; the fourth has disappeared.
The parish consists of three distinct portions — the
first containing Dull village, the second containing the
greater part of Aberfeldy and also the village of
Amulree, and the third or Garrow section, which, very
much smaller than either of the others, lies 5J miles
WNW of Amulree. Its total area is 64,730 acres, of
which 1313 are water, whilst 47, 233| belong to the main
body, and 17, 496 J to the detached portions. The main
body is bounded NW and NE by Blair Athole, E by
Moulin, Logierait, and Little Dunkeld, S by detached
portions of Logierait, Weera, and Fortingal, and SW
and W by Fortingal. It has an utmost length of 13§
miles from NW to SE, viz., from the north-western
slope of Craig nan Garsean to a little beyond Loch
Ceannard ; its utmost width is 12 miles from NE
to SW, viz., from the river Garry, opposite Auld-
clune, to the confluence of Keltney Burn with
the Lyon. The said Lyon flows 1^ mile east-south-
eastward along the southern border to the Tay ;
and the Tay itself at three different points has a total
east-north-easterly course of 8| miles — 2J from the
Lyon's confluence to just above Dunacree, f mile along
the northern border of the Aberfeldy section, and 5^ miles
along the N of the Grandtully portion of the main
liody — descending during that coui'se from 280 to 210
feet above sea-level. The TuMmel winds 13 miles
eastward along the northern border and through the
northern interior, its expansion. Loch Tummcl (25 x J
mile), belonging half to Blair Athole and half to Dull ;
and the Gaury, the Tummel's aflluent, has here at two
points a total east-south-easterly course of Ih mile
between Blair Athole and Auldclune villages. Lakes,
other than Loch Tummcl, are Loch Kinardochy (3x2
furh), Loehan a' Chait (2^x3 furl.). Loch Ceannard
(5ix3furl. ), and five or sLx smaller ones dotted ovei
DULL
the interior ; Lochs DEncuLiCH (4| x 4 furi. ) and
Classic (3ixlJ furl.), partly belonging to Logierait ;
and Loch Bhaic (3x1 furl. ), of which two-thirds are in
Blair Athole. The surface sinks to about 210 feet
above sea-level along the Tay, 360 along the Tum-
mel, and 390 along the Garrv ; and the chief elevations
are Grandtully Hill (1717 feet), to the S of the Tay ;
*Beinn Eagach (2259), Tarragon Hill (2559), Weem
Hill (1638), the Rock of DuU (1557), Craig Odhar (1710),
Meall Tarruin chon (2559), Dun Coilloch (1866), the
*north-eastem shoulder (3100) of Schiehalliox, and
Craig Kynachar (1358), between the Tay and the Tum-
mel ; and, to the N of the Tummel, Meall na h-Iolaire
(1443) and *Craig nan Garsean (1566), where asterisks
mark those summits that culminate on the borders of the
parish. The Aberfeldy and Amulree portion, again,
has an utmost length from N to S of 9J miles, and a
var)'ing breadth from E to "W of f mile and 4| miles,
being bounded N by the Tay, E by Weem (detached),
Little Dunkeld, and Fowlis-AVester, S by CiiefF, and
SW and W by detached sections of Fowlis-Wester,
Monzie, Kenmore, Fortingal, and Logierait. In the S
the QuAiCH has an east-south-easterly course of 3|
miles, traversing Loch Freuchie (If mile x 3 J furl.),
which mostly belongs to this portion of DuU, other
lakes thereof being Loch Hoil (3 x 2 J furl. ), Lochs na
Craig (4x1 furl.) and Fender (2| x 2 furl.) on the
eastern border, Lochan a'Mhuilinn (IJ x § furl.), and
Loch Uaine (2^ x | furl. ). The surface sinks at Amulree
to close on 900 feet, and the chief elevations to the S of the
Quaich are *Geal Cham (2000 feet), *Beimi na Gainimh
(2367), and *MeaU nam Fuaran (2631), whilst to the N
of it rise *Creag an Loch (1760), *Meall Dubh (2021),
and Craig Forinal (1676). Lastly, the Garrow portion,
measuring 3| bj^ If miles, is bounded W and N by
Kenmore, and on the other sides by detached sections of
"Weem and Monzie. The Quaich flows 3J miles along
its northern border ; and the surface, sinking at the
north-eastern corner to 990 feet, thence rises to Garrow
Hill (2402 feet). Cam Bad an Fhraoich (2619), and
Cam nan Gahbhar (2790), all three of which culminate
upon the southern border. Mica slat«, occasionally in-
terspersed Avith quartz, granite, chlorite, and horn-
blende slate, is the predominant rock ; limestone forms
a considerable bed, and is quarried at Tomphobuil ; a
bluish building stone, similar to chlorite and talc slate,
occurs on the Aird of Appin ; and marl, in small
quantities, is found in several places. The soil, in
some parts, is a thin mould or a brownish loam, mixed
with sand ; in others, is a mixture of clay and loam ; in
others, is light and gravelly ; and in others, is of a wet
mossy nature. Between 651 and 661 St Cuthbert,
coming to a town called Dull, forsook the world, and
became a solitarj'. On the summit of Doilweme, or
Weem Hill, 1^ mile to the NE, he brought from the
hard rock a fountain of running water, erected a large
stone cross, built an oratory of wood, and hewed a bath
out of a single stone. At Dull, within seventeen years
of St Cuthbert's death in 687, Adamnan founded a
monastery, which was dedicated to himself, and to
which a very extensive territory was annexed — the
' abthanrie ' or abbacy of Dull. Embracing a large
portion of the western part of the earldom of Athole,
and containing the two thanages of Dull and Fortingal,
this was possessed in the tirst half of the 11th century
by Crinan, lay abbot of Dunkeld, and ancestor both of
the royal dynasty that terminated with Alexander III.
and of the ancient Earls of Athole (Skene's Celtic Scot-
latid, vols. ii. , iii. , 1877-80). The antiquities include a
number of forts, cairns, and standing stones, a stone
circle, and three moat-hills. Mansions, separately
noticed, are Grandtully, Foss, Moness, and Derculich ;
and the chief proprietors are the Earl of Breadalbane,
Sir Robert Menzies, and Sir Archibald Douglas-Drum-
mond-Stewart, 4 others holding each an annual value
of £500 and upwards, 6 of between £100 and £500, 3 of
from £50 to £100, and 6 of from £20 to £50. In the
presbytery of Weem and synod of Perth and Stirling,
this parish is divided ecclesiastically among Foss, Ten-
DULSIE-BRIDGE
andry, Amulree, and Dull, the last a living worth £360.
Dull parish church, a pre-Reformation edifice, consisting
of nave and chancel, and, as recently renovated, con-
taining 330 sittings, stands at the village ; it was dedi-
cated to St Adamnan, under his Celtic name of Eonan.
Other places of worship are noticed under Aberfeldy,
Amulree, Grandtully, and Tummel-Bridge. The public
schools of Didl, Foss, Grandtully, and Tummel-Bridge,
with respective accommodation for 95, 48, 75, and 38
children, had (1880) an average attendance of 44, 13, 48,
and 20, and grants of £43, Is., £26, 2s., £49, 19s., and
£35, Is. Valuation (1866) £16,754, 9s. 3d., (1882)
£19,759, 5s. Pop. of parish (1801) 4055, (1831) 4590,
(1861) 2945, (1871) 2681, (1881) 2578 ; of registration
district (1871) 677, (1881) 6lo.— Orel. Sur., shs. 55, 47,
1869.
Dullaji Water, a stream of Mortlach parish, Banflf-
shu-e, formed by the confluence of Tavat and Corry-
habbie Bums at the head of Glen Rinnes, and thence
running 5| miles north-eastAvard, till it falls into the
Fiddich, I mile E of the centre of Dufitown. All open
to the public, it contains abundance of trout, running
4 or 6 to the Vo.—Ord. Sur., sh. 85, 1876.
DuUatur, a tract of low land on the northern border
of Cumbernauld parish, Dumbartonshire, traversed by
the Forth and Clyde Canal, the line of Antoninus'
Wall, and the Edinburgh and Glasgow section of the
Xorth British railway, li mile WNW of Cumbernauld
town, and 2 miles ESE of Kilsyth. Lying almost on
a level with the canal, it was all till a recent period a
deep and spongy, almost impassable morass, immedi-
ately N of what is supposed to have been Bruce's
mustering-ground on the eve of his march to Bannock-
burn (1314), and S of the Kilsyth battle-field (1645).
At the cuttmg of the canal through it in 1769-70,
swords, pistols, and other weapons were foimd in it, sup-
posed to have been lost or thrown away in the rout
from Kilsyth ; bodies of men and horses, including a
mounted trooper completely armed, were also brought
to light ; and mA-riads of small toads, each much the
size of a nut or Turkej^ bean, issuing from it, hopped
over all the fields northward for several miles, and could
be counted from 10 to 30 iu the space of 1 square j-ard.
DuUatur YiUas here, on a plot of 164 acres, round the
old mansions of Dykehead and DuUatur, were erected in
1875-76 ; and Dullatur station, opened in the latter year,
is 12| mUes NE oi Glasgow:— Ord. Sur., sh. 31, 1867.
Dulnain, a river of Badenoch, NE Inverness-shire,
rising at an altitude of 2600 feet among the Monadh-
liath Mountains, 8 mUes AV by N of Kincraig station,
and running 28 mUes north-east-by-eastward, tUl it
faUs into the Spej at Ballintomb, 3 miles SSW of Gran-
town, after a descent of 1900 feet. It traverses the
parishes of Kingussie, Alvie, DuthO, and Cromdale, the
Inverness-shire and Elginshire portions of Cromdale
being, parted by the last 9 furlongs of its course ; and
just above its mouth it is crossed by an iron-trellised
viaduct of the Highland raUway. It has generaUy a
small volume, yet is very rapid ; and, when swollen
■with rain or melted snow, it often does much damage
to the corn lands on its banks. The tract traversed
by it in Duthil parish is called Dulnainside ; was ex-
tensively covered with a forest which was destroyed
by a fierce conflagration about the beginning of last
century ; and was, till then, a haunt of wolves. Its
waters contain good store of trout, some pike, and
occasional salmon and grilse. — Ord. Sur., sh. 74, 1877.
Dulnain-Bridgc, a hamlet in the InveraUan section of
Cromdale parish, Elginshire, with a bridge (1791) over
Dulnain river, 3 mUes SW of Grantown, imder which it
has a post oflice.
Dulsie-Bridge, a hamlet in Ardclach parish, Nairn-
shire, on the river Findhorn, 5 miles above Ardclach
church, and 12 SSE of Nairn. The river here tra-
verses a rocky and wooded gorge of singular beauty,
and is crossed by a bridge, which, carrying over Wade's
military road from Grantown to Fort George, has a
bold main arch of 46 feet iu span, with a subsidiary
smaller arch.
383
DUMBARNIE
DUMBARTON
Dumbamie. See Duxbarnie.
Dumbarrow. See Dunbauuow.
Dumbarton, a town and parish of Dumbartonshire.
A seaport, a royal and parliamentary burgh, and the
capital of the county, the town stands on the left bank
of the Leven, f mile above its influx to the Clyde, and
at the junction of the Glasf^ow & Helensburgh and
Vale of Leven sections of the North British railway, by
water being 4f miles E by N of Port Glasgow and 7J E
of Greenock, by rail 4i S of Balloch Junction, 34^
WSW of Stirling, SJ ESE of Helensburgh, 16 WNW
of Glasgow, and 63J W of Edinburgh. Its site is a low
flat plain, skirted to the W by an east-south-easterly
curve of the Leven, and screened to the E by the
Kilpatrick Hills (1313 feet), whilst south-south-east-
ward, between the town and the Clyde, stands the
castle-crowned Rock of Dumbarton. From the crescent-
shaped High Street, running 5 furlongs concentric with
and near the course of the Leven, Cross Vennel and
Church Street strike north-north-eastward to Broad-
meadow ; and a stone five-arch bridge, 300 feet long,
built towards the middle of last century, leads over the
Leven to the western suburbs, in Cardross parish, of
Bridgend and Dennystoun — the latter founded in 1853,
and named in honour of its projector, William Denny.
Within and without, Dumbarton, it must be owned,
presents an irregular and unattractive appearance, little
in keeping with its fine surroundings ; and, as seen from
the Clyde, it looks a mere aggregate of huddled houses,
chequered in front by the timbers of shipyards, and
overtopped by more chimneys than steeples. Yet few
Scotch towns have made more rapid progress than has
Dumbarton since 1852, in point of dwellers rather than
of dwellings, whence overcrowding ; but now (1882)
Messrs Denny propose to erect a new suburb for 2000
families at the eastern extremity of the town, and at the
same time to form a new graving-dock that will take in
the largest vessel afloat. Amongst the improvements
of the last thirty years are the opening of a large and
beautiful cemetery (1854) ; the embanking of Broad-
meadow (1858) ; the introduction of water from Gar-
shake Reservoir (1859) at a cost of £8500, the present
supply exceeding 15,000,000 gallons ; the taking over
of the gas-works, which date from 1832, by the Corpora-
tion (1874) ; and the adoption of the Free Libraries Act
(1881). The chief want now is a better public park or
recreation ground than marshy Broadmeadow.
The Burgh Hall and Academy, built in 1865-66 at a
cost of £7000, is a goodly edifice in the French Gothic
style of the 13th century, with a frontage of 132 feet,
and a central tower 140 feet high. The Academy, in
front, comprises four large class-rooms ; and the Hall, to
the rear, is 80 feet long, 40 wide, and 37 high, having
accommodation for nearly 1000 persons. The County
Buildings and Prison, Imilt in 1824 at a cost of over
£5000, were in 1863 enlarged by two wings and other-
wise reconstructed at a further outlay of £5170; and
the Prison now contains 31 cells. A Combination Poor-
house, with accommodation for 156 paupers and 40
lunatics, was erected at a cost of £7000 in 1865 ; an
epidemic hospital in 1874. St John's Masonic Hall
(1874-75) has accommodation for 200 persons ; the
Philosophical and Literary Society (1867) occupies the
lower portion of the Town Mission House (1873) ; and
there are also a Mechanics' Institute (1844), the Salmon
Club (1796), a curling club (1815), a bowling club (1839),
a Bums club (1859), a friendship association (1861), etc.
Dumbarton has a post office, ■with money order, savings'
bank, and telegraph departments, branches of the Com-
mercial, Clydesdale, and Union Banks, agencies of 32
insurance companies, 2 hotels, and 2 newspapers — the
Wednesday Liberal Dumbarton Herald (1851) and the
Saturday Independent Lennox Herald (1862). Tuesday
is market-day, and fairs are held on the thinl Tuesday
in March (St Patrick's) for seeds and horses, the first
Wednesday in June (Carman) for cattle and horses, and
the second Wednesday in August (Lammas) for cattle
and hay.
Extensive glass and chemical works, established in
384
1777, and employing 300 men, were closed about two
years after the death in 1831 of Provost Dixon and his
son, then for a time reopened, and finally discontinued
in 1850, when their three prominent brick cones were
taken do\\"n. The stoppage of these works seemed
likely to deal a great blow to Dumbarton's well-being ;
but their place has been more than supplied by ship-
building, which now employs upwards of 4000 hands.
The two great shipbuilding firms are those of Messrs
M'Millan (1834) and Messrs Wm. Denny & Bros. (1844).
From the yard of the former firm, which covers 5 acres,
198 vessels of 116,348 tons were launched during 1845-
76. Messrs Denny removed in 1857 from the Wood
Yard, on the Cardross side, to the Leven Shipyard, on
the Dumbarton side, which, covering 15 acres, has six
landing berths, each of 3000 tons capacity ; and they
during 1844-76 turned out 192 vessels of 234,358 tons.
Two lesser, but still large, shipyards have been opened
since 1871 ; and the total output was 14,000 tons in
1872, 18,400 in 1873, 32,000 in 1874, 33,000 in 1875,
17,500 in 1876, 28,500 in 1877, 41,557 in 1878, 33,230
in 1879, 34,036 in 1880, and 26,296 in 1881. Dum-
barton's first iron steamer was launched in 1844, its
first screw in 1845, and its first steel steamer in 1879 :
whilst among the more notable vessels built here are
the Peter Stuart (1867) of 1490 tons, the largest iron
sailing ship till then constructed in any Scottish port ;
the Stuart Hahnemann do. (1874) of 2056 tons; and
the Piavcnna Peninsular and Oriental steam-liner (1880)
of 3448 tons. The other industrial establishments of
Dumbarton comprise Denny & Co.'s engineering works
(1851); Paul & Co.'s engine and boiler works (1847);
Ure & Co.'s iron foundry (1835) ; the Dennystoun
Forge (1854), with a 5-ton double-acting Nasmyth steam-
hammer ; 3 saw-mills ; a rope and sail yard ; brass-
founding, boat-building, and ship-painting works, etc.
In 1658 the magistrates of Glasgow made overtures to
their brethren of Dumbarton for the purchase of ground
for an extensive harbour, which the latter rejected on
the ground that ' the influx of mariners would tend to
raise the price of butter and eggs to the inhabitants.'
Port Glasgow was thereupon founded, and Dumbarton
thus lost the chance of becoming a seaport second to
few in the world. Down to 1700 the burgh retained its
chartered privilege of levying customs and dues on all
ships navigating the Clyde between the mouth of the
Kelvin and the head of Loch Long, but in that year it
sold this privilege to Glasgow for 4500 merks, or £260
sterling. This and the deepening of the Clyde to
Glasgow have done much to lower Dumbarton's com-
mercial prestige, and it now ranks merely as a sub-port.
Nor are its harbour accommodations great, the improve-
ments carried on since 1852 — such as the deepening of
the Leven's channel — having generally had less regard
to shipping than to shipbuilding. An excellent quay,
however, and a capacious dock have been constructed,
mainly at the expense of the late James Lang ; and in
1874-75 a splendid pier of pitch pine was built at a cost
of £8000. Extending from the Castle Rock into the
Clyde, it consists of gangway (640 x 15 feet) and pier-
head (90 X 25 feet), the river's depth at the extremity
of the pier-head being 10 feet at low water, so that
steamers can touch at any state of the tide.
St Patrick's collegiate church, founded in 1450 by
Isabella, Duchess of Albany, at the end of Broadmeadow,
fell into disuse at the Reformation, and now is repre-
sented by a single tower arch, removed to Church
Street in 1850 to make room for the railway station.
The old parish church, at the foot of High Street, a
quaint, begalleried, cruciform structure, with western
spire, was built about 1565, and demolished in 1810.
Its successor, completed in 1811 at a cost of £6000, is a
handsome edifice, with spire and clock, 1500 sittings,
and three stained-glass windows, two of them geomet-
rical designs, and tlie third (1876) depicting Christ's
Sermon on the Mount. A second Established church is
now (1882) about to be built in the town ; and on the
Cardross side is Dalreoch quoad sacra church (1873 ;
cost £2000 ; 620 sittings). Free churches are the North
DUMBARTON
(1844 ; rebuilt 1877) and the High (1864 ; cost £5000 ;
850 sittings), a fine Gothic building, -ivith a spire of 140
feet. The U.P. church of West Bridgend (1861) has a
good organ ; another in High Street (182(5) was enlarged
and decorated in 1874 at a cost of nearly £2700. Other
places of worship are a Wesleyan Methodist chapel
(1862), a Baptist chapel (1876), a new Evangelical
Union chapel (1882), St Patrick's Roman Catholic
church (1830 ; 500 sittings), and St Augustine's Epis-
copal church (1872-73 ; 650 sittings), an Early Geometric
Pointed edifice, with nave, side-aisles, lofty clerestory,
chancel, and ' sticket ' steeple, whose cost, inclusive of
a parsonage, came to close on £9000, and which has all
but superseded the smaller St Luke's (1856). The
Academy, College Street public, West Bridgend public,
an Episcopal, and a Roman Catholic school, ^\ith re-
spective accommodation for 826, 371, 530, 361, and 373
children, had (1880) an average attendance of 485, 533,
314, 221, and 262, and grants of £527, 19s. 6d.,
£398, 5s. 6d., £271, 14s., £220, 2s. 6d., aud_£177, lis.
Aproiws of the schools, the famous novelist, Tobias
Smollett (1721-74) here learned the 'rudiments' under
Buchanan's vindicator, John Love (1695-1750), who
was a native of Dumbarton, as also were the judge. Sir
James Smollett of Bonuill (1648-1731), its member for
twenty-one years, and Patrick Colquhoun, LL.D. (1745-
1820), the well-known statist and metropolitan magis-
trate. One of its ministers was the Rev. James Oliphant
(1734-1818), the 'Auld Light professor' of Burus's
Ordination.
Constituted a free royal burgh by Alexander IL in
1222, Dumbarton received fresh charters from several of
his successors, all
of which were con-
firmed in 1609 by
James YL It now
is governed by a
provost, a toAvn-
clerk, 3 bailies, a
treasurer, a dean of
guild, a master of
works, and 8 coun-
cillors. The Gene-
ral Police and Im-
provement Act
(Scotland) of 1850
was adopted in
1854, and the
magistrates and
town council are
commissioners of police. An Act was obtained by the
magistrates and town council in 1872, empowering
them to purchase the old and to erect new gas-works,
to improve the water- works, to erect the new pier, and
to construct tramways to Alexandria. The police force
in 1881 comprised 9 men ; and the salary of the
superintendent is £150. The sheriff county court is
held every Tuesday and Friday during session ; the
debts recovery court every Friday ; the sheriff's ordin-
ary small debt court every Tuesday during session,
and occasionally during vacation ; and quarter sessions
are on the first Tuesday of March, May, and August,
and the last Tuesday of October. Dumbarton, along
■with Kilmarnock, Renfrew, Rutherglen, and Port
Glasgow, returns one member to parliament, its muni-
cipal and parliamentary constituency numbering 1758
in 1882. The annual value of real pi'opcrty within the
parliamentary burgh was £15,004 in 1856, £37,532 in
1875, and £45,898 in 1881-82, when the corporation
revenue was £1048, and the harbour revenue £1339 (in
1866, £738). Pop. of royal burgh (1801) 2541, (1811)
3121, (1821) 3481, (1831) 3623, (1841) 4391, (1851)
4590, (1861) 6090 ; of pari, burgh (1851) 5445, (1861)
8253, (1871) 11,404, (1881) 13,782, of whom 3482 were
in Cardross parish. Houses (1831) 2478 inhabited,
40 vacant, 51 building.
The Castle of Dumbarton is situated on an acute
peninsula at the left side of the Leven's influx to the
Clyde, and consists partly of a mass of rock, partly of
25
Seal of Dumbarton.
DUMBARTON
superincumbent buildings. The rock appears to over-
hang both rivers — huge, mural, weather-worn — for
several hundred yards down to their point of confluence.
It culminates at 240 feet above sea-level, measures
1 mile in circumference, and figures picturesquely in
most of the views of the upper waters of the Firth of
Clyde. The rock is of basalt, like Ailsa Craig, the Bass,
Stirling Castle Rock, and other single, sharply-outlined
heights, that start abruptly from sea or plain. It rises
sheer from the low circumjacent level, and stands by
itself, without any hills near it. The basalt tends to
the prismatic form, being slightly columnar, and in
places magnetic ; and is all the more curious for pro-
truding through beds of sandstone, nearly a mile distant
from any other eruptive formation. The rock towards
the summit is cloven by a narrow deep chasm into a
double peak, and presents its cloven sides to S and N.
The western peak is 30 feet higher than the eastern, but
not so broad, and bears the name of Wallace's Seat.
The buildings on the rock have difl"ered in extent and
form at different times, and do not seem to have ever
had any high architectural merit. The entrance, in
old times and till a recent period, was on the N side,
by a gradually ascending footpath, through a series of
gates, which now might be interesting antiquities had
the}' not been sold for old iron. The present entrance
is on the S side, through a gateway in a rampart, whence
a long flight of steps leads to a battery and the governor's
house — a modern white building utterly out of keeping
with the character of the place, and used now as the
quarter of the married men of the Coast Brigade stationed
here. A second, narrower flight leads from the gover-
nor's house to the cleft between the two summits, and
at one point is overarched by a small structure, alleged
to have been the prison of Wallace, but clearly much
later than Wallace's day. The barracks, the armoury,
the Duke of York's battery, and the water tank stand
in the cleft of the rock, and a steep winding staii- con-
ducts thence to the top of the western summit, which is
surmounted by a flagstafl", and retains vestiges of a
small circular building, variously pronounced a wind-
mill, a Roman fort, and a Roman pharos. The barracks
contain accommodation for only 150 men, and the
armoury has lost its 1500 stand of arms since the Crimean
war ; while the batteries, though capable of mounting
16 guns, would be of little avail for clefensive purposes,
and at best could only serve to rake the channel of the
Clyde. The castle, too, can be fully commanded by
artillery from the brow of Dumbuck (547 feet), 1 mile
to the E, so that ever since the invention of gunpowder
it has been rendered unavailable for its original purposes,
but it is maintained as a national fortress, in terms of
the Articles of Union. Nor is it undeserving of good
maintenance, for, besides forming a noble feature in a
most noble landscape, it commands from its western
summit three distant prospects — each difterent, and
each of singular beauty. The first up the Clyde towards
Glasgow — Dunglass Castle on its promontory, Erskine
House opposite, with boats, ships, wooded hills, and
many buildings ; the second down the broadening estu-
ary— Port Glasgow and Greenock, and the mountains
that guard the entrance of Loch Long ; and the third
up the Yale of Leven, away to the dusky summits of
Loch Lomond. ' If the grand outline of any one of the
views can be seen, it is sufficient recompense for the
trouble of climbing the Rock of Dumbarton. ' So thought
Dorothy Wordsworth, who, with her brother and Cole-
ridge, made that climb, on 24 Aug. 1803 (p]). 57-62 of
her Tovr in Scotland, ed. by Princ. Shairp, 1874).
Dumbarton has been identified with the Roman naval
station 2'hcodosia, with Ossian's Balclutlut ( ' town on the
Clyde '), and with Urbs LcgionU (' city of the legion '),
the scene of Arthur's ninth battle against the heathen
Saxons in the beginning of the 6th century. The third
identification slightly confirms the first, and itself is
strengthened by the town's title of Castrum Arthuri
in a record of David II. (1367) ; of the second we are
told that, whilst Ossian says of Balclutha, ' The thistle
shakes there its lovely head,' the true Scotch thistle,
385
DUMBARTON
though really rare in Scotland, does still grow wild on
Dumbarton Rock. On this rock (in alto mantis Ihin-
hrdcn) the legend of St Monenna, who died in 519,
records that, consecrated a virgin hy St Patrick, she
founded one of her seven Scotch churches. Be this as
it may, from the battle of Ardderyd (573) we find the
Cumbrian British kingdom of Strathclyde comprising
the present counties of Cumberland, Westmoreland,
Dumfries, Ayr, Lanark, Peebles, Renfrew, and Dum-
barton ; its northern half occupied by the Damnonii,
belonging to the Cornish variety of the British race ; its
first king Rhydderch Hael, Columba's and Kentigern's
friend ; and its cajtital the strongly fortified rock on the
Clyde's right bank, termed by the Briton's Alduith
('height on the Clyde'), and by the Gadhelic people
iJnnhrcatan {' fort of the Britons'). By the victory in
654 of Osuiu or Osway of Northumbria over Penda of
Mercia, the ally of these Britons, the latter became Osuiu's
tributaries ; but Ecgfrid's crushing defeat at Dunnichen
in 685 restored them to iull independence. This lasted
Ao\\n to 756, when a Northumbrian and Pictish army
under Eadberct and Angus mac Fergus pressed so hard
upon Alclyde, that the place was surrendered after a
four months' siege ; and four years later we hear of the
burning of its fortress, 'which,' says Hill Burton, ' was
probably, after the fashion of that day, a large collec-
tion of wooden houses, protected by the height of the
rock on which it stood, and, whei'e necessary, by em-
bankments.' In 870 Alclyde sustained a second four
months' siege, this time by the Vikings, under Olaf the
White, Norwegian King of Dublin, who reduced its
defenders by famine. Before which siege, with the dis-
organisation of Northurabria, the whole of the British
territory from the Clyde to the Derwent had once more
become united under its line of independent kings,
claiming Roman descent, the last of whom, Donald,
died in 908. Thereon the Britons elected Donald,
brother to Constantin, King of Alban ; and thus Alclyde
became dependent on Alban, till in 1018 its sub-king
Owen or Eugenius the Bald was succeeded by Duncan,
]\Ialcolm II. 's grandson — the 'gracious Duncan' of
Macbeth. Malcolm dying in 1034, Duncan succeeded
him as King of Scotia, in which Strathclyde thenceforth
becomes absorbed. In 1175 the northern portion of the
old Cumbrian kingdom, nearly represented by Dumbar-
tonshire, was formed by William the Lyon into the
earldom of Levenach or Lexnox, and conferred on his
brother David. By 1193 this earldom had come into
possession of Aluin, the first of a line of Celtic earls,
who, down to their extinction in 1425, frequently figure
in Dumbarton's history, but who only retained the
castle till 1238, from which year onward it was always
a ro}-al fortress. As such, during the competition for
the Scottish crown (1292), it was delivered up to Edward
I. of England, who gave it over to Baliol, on the ad-
judication in his favour; but from 1296 to 1309 it was
held again by the English, with Sir Alexander Wouteith
for governor. He it was who on 5 Aug. 1305 took
Wallace captive at Glasgow, so that likely enough the
'ubiquitous troglodyte ' was really fur a week a prisoner
here, where (as elsewhere) his huge two-handed sword is
preserved in the armoury, along with old Lochaber
axes and skene-dhus 'from Bannockburn,' flint pistols,
rude pikes, and tattered regimental colours. In 1313,
according to our least veracious chroniclers, Bruce,
almost single-handed, achieved the cajiture of Dumbar-
ton Castle. A sort of Guy Fawkes and Bluebeard episode
this, with keys and a cellar figuring largely therein —
the cellar first full of armed English soldiery, who are
overawed by the Monarch, and the traitor Monteith
next led to it in fetters, but presently pardoned by the
magnanimous Hero. Anyhow, by Bruce the castle was
committed to tlie governorshi]) of Sir Malcolm Fleming
of Cumbernauld, whose son was one of the few that
escaped from Halidon Hill (1333), when Dumbarton
became the rallying-point of the remnant adhering to
the boy-king, David II. Sir Roliert de Erskine was
next appointed governor (1357), and after him Sir John
de Dennistoun or Danielstoim. He was succeeded by
386
DUMBARTON
his son, Sir Robert, on whose death in 1399 Walter,
his brother, the parson of Kincardine O'Neil, forcibly
seized the castle, as belonging heritably to his family.
He held it till 1402, surrendering it then in the hope of
obtaining the vacant see of St Andrews — a hope cut
short by his death before the end of the year. In 1425
James Stewart, son of the late Regent Albany, and
grandson of the eighth and last Celtic Earl of Lennox,
assaulted and burned the town of Dumbarton, and
murdered the king's imcle. Sir John Stewart, who held
the castle with only thirty-two men. Dumbarton was
next besieged in 1481 by the fleet of Edward IV., but
was bravely and successfully defended by Sir Andrew
Wood of Largo. For the next half century the hisrory
of Dumbarton is virtually that of the Stewart Earls
of Lennox. Their founder, John, having taken up
arms against James IV. , the castle was twice besieged
in 1489 — first by the Earl of Argyll without success,
and then by the young king himself, who after a six
weeks' leaguer compelled the four sons of Lennox to
capitulate. The surprise of the castle one stormy night
by John, third Earl (1514), the landing here of Albany
from France (1515), the establishment of a French
garrison (1516), the interception of a large French sub-
sidy (1543) by Matthew, Iburth Earl, Lord Darnley's
father, and his design of betraying the fortress to Eng-
land (1544) — these are events that can merely be glanced
at in passing. On 7 Aug. 1548 Queen Mary, then
six years old, embarked at Dumbarton for France ; in
July 1563 she paid a second visit to the castle ; and
hither her army was marching from Hamilton when its
progress was barred at Langside, 13 May 1568. For
nearly three years the castle held out for her under its
governor, John, fifth Lord Fleming ; and the story of
how it was taken by escalade on the night of 1 April
1571 deserves to be told -n-ith some fulness. Captain
Thomas Craufurd of Jordanhill, to whom the attack
was entrusted, had long been attached to the house of
Lennox. He it was whose evidence was so important
regarding the death of Darnley, and who afterwards
accused Lethington as one of the murderers, since which
time he appears to have resumed the profession of arms.
In the enterprise he was assisted by Cunningham, com-
monly called the Laird of Drumwhassel, one of the
bravest and most skilful ofiicers of his time, and he had
been fortunate in bribing the assistance of a man named
Robertson, who, having once been warden in the castle,
knew every crag of the rock, 'where it was best to climb,
and where fewest ladders would serve.' With him and
a hundred picked men Craufurd set out from Glasgow
after sunset. He had sent before him a few light horse
to prevent intelligence by stopping all wayfarers, and
about midnight he arrived at Dumbuck, within a mile
of the castle, where he was joined by Drumwhassel and
Captain Hume. Here he explained to the soldiers the
hazardous service on which they were engaged, pro-
vided them with ropes and scaling ladders, and,
advancing c^iuckly and noiselesslj'^, reached the rock,
whose summit was fortunately wrapped in a heavy fog,
whilst the bottom was clear. But, on the first attempt,
all M-as likely to be lost. The ladders lost their hold
while the soldiers were on them ; and had the garrison
been on the alert, the noise must have inevitably be-
trayed them. They listened, however, and all was still.
Again the ladders were fixed, and, their ' craws ' or
steel hooks this time catching firmly in the crevices, the
leaders gained a small out-jutting ledge, Mhere an ash
tree had struck its roots. Fixing the ropes to its
branches, they speedily towed up the rest of their
comrades. They Avere still, however, fourscore fathoms
from the wall. They had reached but the middle of the
rock, day was breaking, and when, for the second time,
they planted their ladders, a singular impediment
occurred. One of the soldiers in ascending was seized
with a fit, in which he convulsively grasped the stejis so
firmly, that no one could either pass him or unloose his
hold. But Craufurd's presence of mind suggested a
ready expedient ; he tied him to the ladder and turned
it round, so the passage was once more free. They were
DUMBARTON
now at the bottom of the wall, where the footing was
narrow and precarious ; but once more fixing their
ladders in the copestone, Alexander Kamsav, Craufurd's
ensign, and two other soldiers, stole up, and though at
once discovered by a sentinel, leapt down and slew him,
sustaining the attack of three of the guard tiU they were
joined by Craufurd and the rest. Their weight and
struggles to surmount it brought the wall down with a
run, and afforded an open breach, through which they
rushed in shouting, 'A Damley, a Damley!' Craufurd's
watchword, given evidently from affection to his hapless
master, the murdered king. According to Dr Hill
Burton, the point thus gained was the top of the
western peak, the ascent being made to the left of the
present entrance ; and from this vantage-ground the
assailants now turned the cannon on the garrison, who,
panic-struck, attempted no resistance. Fleming, the
governor, from long familiarity with the rock, managed
to escape down the face of an almost perpeu'iicular
gully, and, passing through a postern which opened upon
the Clyde, threw himself into a fishing-boat, and so
passed over to Argyllshire. In this achievement the
assailants lost not a man, and of the garrison only four
were slain. In the castle were taken prisoner .John
Hamilton, Archbishop of St Andrews, who was fotmd
with mail shirt and steel cap on, Yerac, the French
ambassador, Fleming of Boghall, and John Hall, an
English gentleman, who had fled to Scotland after
Dacre's rebellion. Lady Fleming, the wife of the
governor, was also taken, and treated by the Eegent
courteously, being suffered to go free, and carry off with
her her plate and furniture. But Hamilton, the primate,
was instantly brought to trial for the murder of Damley
and Moray, condemned, and hanged and cjuartered
without delay.
In 1581, as a signal and crowning favour, Esme
Stewart, the new-made Duke of Lennox, received the
governorship of Dumbarton Castle, one of the three
great national fortresses ; in 16-39 it was seized on a
Simday by the Covenanters, its captain, 'a vigilant
gentleman,' attending church with so many of the
garrison that, they being taken on their homeward way,
the place was defenceless. It was, however, recaptured
by the Royalists, to be lost again on 28 Aug. of the
following year. Thereafter the castle drops quietly out
of history, a visit from Queen Yictoria on 7 Aug. 1847
being all that remains to be noticed. Sot of the town
is there anything worthier of record than the injury
done it by floods of the Leven in 133i, and again in the
early years of the 17th century, when the magistrates
felt obliged to apply to parliament for aid in construct-
ing bulwarks. A commission of 1607 reported that ' na
less nor the sowme of threttie thousand poundis Scottis
money was abUl to befr out and fumeis the necessar
charges and expenses in pforming these warkis that are
liable to saif the said burgh from utter destructioune. '
A grant of 25,000 merks Scots was accordingly made for
the ptirpose by parliament ; and, this proving insuffi-
cient, a farther sum of 12,000 was afterwards granted by
King James. In 1675 Dumbarton gave the title of
Earl in the peerage of Scotland to George, third son of
the first Marquis of Douglas, but this peerage became
extinct at the death of his son about the middle of the
18th century.
The parish of Dumbarton is bounded ^ W by Bonhill ;
X by Kilmaronock ; NE by Drymen and Killeam in
Stirlingshire ; SE by Old Kilpatrick ; S, for 3 furlongs,
by the river Clyde, which separates it from Eenfrewshire ;
and "W by the river Leven, dividing it from Cardross.
Its utmost length, from XE to SW, is 6J miles ; its
breadth, from E to "W, varies between 1^ furlong and
5f miles ; and its area is 8563 acres, of which 9S| are
foreshore and 174 water. The Letxx winds 4| miles
southward along all the western border, and is joined
from the interior by Murroch Bum ; whilst Overton
Bum, tracing much of the south-eastern boundary, and
itself joined by Black Bum, flows direct to the Clyde.
The southern and western districts, to the mean distance
of 1^ mile from the Leven, present no striking natural
DUMBAETONSHIEE
feature except the Castle Ro<;k, in whose vicinity they
lie so little above sea -level as to be sometimes flooded
by spring rides. From this low valley the surface rises
north-eastward to Auchenreoch and Dumbarton Muirs,
attaining S95 feet at Enockshanoch, 1228 at Doughnot
HUl, Ills at Knockupple, and 892 at Knockvadie.
Limestone abounds at Munoch Glen, 24 miles XXE
of the town ; red sandstone is quarried on the moors ;
and an excellent white sandstone occurs at Dalieoch,
in Cardross parish. The soil — in a few fields a rich
alluvium — in some of the arable tracts is very clayey, in
others gravelly, and in most somewhat shallow, yet
generally fertile ; whilst that of the moors is sparse,
and of little value. Strath LE\rEy, on the river Leven
opposite Eenton, is the chief mansion. Dumbarton is
seat of a presbytery in the Synod of Glasgow and Ayr ;
the living is worth £202. Yaluation of landward portion
(1882; £5108, 5s. Pop. of entire parish (1801) 2541,
(1831) 362-3, (1861) 6304, (1871) 8933, (1881) 10,837, of
whom 538 were in the landward portion. — Ord. Sur.,
sh. 30, 1866.
The jjresbytery of Dumbarton comprises the old
parishes of Arrochar, Baldemock, Balfron, Bonhill,
Buchanan, Cardross, Drymen, Dumbarton, Fintry, Kil-
leam, Kilinaronock, New Kilpatrick, Old Kilpatrick,
Luss, Roseneath, Row, and Strathblane ; the quoad
sacra parishes of Alexandria, Clydebank, Craigrownie,
Dalxeoch, Garelochhead, Helensburgh, Jamestown,
ililngavie, and Renton ; and the chapelries of Dtm-
tocher, Helensburgh -West, and Kilcresgan. Pop.
(1871) 56,216, (1881) 70,081, of whom 8971 were com-
mtmicants of the Church of Scotland in 1873. — The
Free Church also has a presbytery of Dumbarton, with
2 churches at Dumbarton, 2 at Helensburgh, 3 at
Renton, and 14 at respectively Alexandria, Arrochar,
Baldemock, Bonhill, Bowling, Cardross, Duntocher,
(rarelochhead, Killeam, Luss, Old Kiljjatrick, Rose-
neath, Shandon, and Strathblane, which 21 chnrches
together had 4262 members in ISSl.
See, besides works cited under DrMBAETOxsHiEE,
John Glen's Si-story of the Toicn and Castle of Dumbar-
ton (Dumb. 1847) ; WiUiam Eraser's The Lennox (2 vols.,
Edinb., 1874) ; and Donald Macleod's Castle and Toxcn
of Du/nharton (Dumb. 1S77'.
Dumbarton and Helensburgh Railway. See Kobth
Beitish Railway.
DTimbart;onshire, a county, partly maritime, but chiefly
inland, in the W of Scotland, comprising a main body
and a detached district. The main body is bounded
N by Perthshire, E by Stirlingshire, SE by Lanark-
shire, S by the river Clyde and the upper Firth of Clyde,
which divide it from Renfrewshire, and YT by Argyll-
shire. Its eastern boundary, fix)m Island Yow, above
Inversnaid, to the mouth of Endrick Water, runs along
the mid'lle of Loch Lomond : thence, to the mouth of
Catter Bum, is trac-ed by En^irick Water ; and, in the
extreme SE, for 3 miles above Maryhill, is traced
by the river Kelvin. Its western boundary, exc-ept
for 9i miles in the extreme X, is all formed by
Loch Long. Its outline bears some resemblance to that
of a crescent with the convexity towards the NK Its
length, from X to S, varies between 4| and 24| nules,
its breadth, from E to W, between IJ and 18i miles.
The detached district, commencing 4J miles E by X of
the nearest point of the main body, and 5 XXE of
Glasgow, comprises the parishes of Kirkintilloch and
Cumbernauld ; is bounded X and E by Stirlingshire, S
and W by Lanarkshire ; and meastires 12f miles in
maximtun" length from W by S to E by X, and 4 in
maximum breadth- The area of the entire county is
270 square miles or 172,677 acres, of which 3814 are
foreshore and 14,312i water, whilst 19,030 belong to the
detached district.
All the northem or Aerochae district of the county,
lying partly aroimd the head of Loch Lomond, partly
between that lake and Loch Long, is a group of moon-
tains, intersected bv deep glens^ Cidminating in Ben
Yorlich (3092 feet) and Ben Yane (3004), it displays all
the most characteristic features of grand, romantic,
3£7
DUMBARTONSHIRE
DUMBARTONSHIRE
beautiful Highland scener)'. The central part from
Finnart and the middle of Locli Lomond to the hill-
screens of the Firth of Clyde, but including the penin-
sula of Roseneath, is a region varying between the
highland and lowland, and exquisitely blends many a
feature of sternness and wildness with many of the sweet-
est loveliness. The lofty hills of Arrochar and Luss,
in particular, contrast most strikingly with tlie wide ex-
panse of the pellucid waves of the queen of lakes, far-
famed Loch Lomond. ' Here savage grandeur, in all
the towering superiority of uncultivated nature, is seen
side by side with the very emblem of peace and tran-
quillity, an alpine lake, which the winds reach only
b}' stealth.' The southern district, comprising the
seaboard of the Clyde, the Vale of Leven, and the tract
eastward of that vale to the extremity of the main body
of the countj', is generally lowland and rich almost to
excess with gentle contour and tasteful oruamentation ;
yet even this is diversified — to some extent broadly
occupied — with characters of abruptness and boldness,
shown in the shoulders of tlie Cardross hills, in the mass
of Dumbarton Rock, in the brows of Dumbuck and of
basaltic ranges northward of it, and in the capriciously
escarped, romantic acclivities of the Kilpatriek Hills,
which, extending 54 miles from E to W, and attaining
a maximum altitude of 1313 feet in Duncomb and F}ti-
loch, contain many rich close scenes, and command
some of the finest and most extensive views in Scotland.
The detached district is all lowland, and of tame appear-
ance, nowhere exceeding 480 feet above sea-level, yet
extends so near the roots of the Campsie Fells as to
borrow effects of scenery similar to those which the
tracts along the Clyde borrow from the Kilpatriek Hills.
No region in Scotland can boast of finer scenery than
the county of Dumbarton ; and certainly none more
varied, or oftener visited and admired by strangers.
Considerably more than one-half of Loch Lomond,
and fully two-thirds of the islands in it, belong to Dum-
bartonshire. Loch Sloy in Arrochar, Lochs Humphrey
and Cochno in Old KUpatrick, Fynloch in Dumbarton,
Fannyside Loch in Cumbernauld, and several smaller
lakes, have aggregately a considerable area. The river
Clyde, from opposite Blythswood to the influx of the
Leven, runs 8| miles along the southern border ; and,
like the Firth, onward to the soutli-western extremity
of Roseneath, teems ^vith the vast commercial traffic
of Glasgow. The Leven, M-inding 7^ miles south-
ward from Loch Lomond to the Clyde, bisects the
lowland district of the county's main body, and is
notable at once for the purity of its waters, the richness
of its vale, and the profusion of bleachfields and print-
works on its banks. The Endrick, over all its run on
the eastern boundary, is a beautiful stream. The Kel-
vin, though ditch-like where it approaches the main
body's south-eastern border, yet at Killermont and
Garscube exhibits much exquisite beauty. AUander
Water drains most of New Kilpatriek to the Kelvin.
The Falloch, Inveruglas, Douglas, Luss, Finlas,
Fruin, and other brooks and torrents, with many
fine cascades, drain most of the Highland tracts
into Loch Lomond. The Kelvin traces most of the
northern boundary of the detached district, but every-
where there retains its ditch-like character. The slug-
fish Luggie drains the western part of the detached
istrict to the Kelvin, and some tiny streamlets drain
the eastern part to the Carron. Many beautiful rivulets
and burns are in the interior of the main body, running
either to the principal rivers, or jmrsuing independent
courses to the Clyde, Gare Loch, or Loch Long. The
Forth and Clyde Canal traverses the N border of the
detached district, and afterwards passes along the S
border of the main body to the Clyde at Bowling Bay.
Springs of excellent water are almost everywhere nume-
rous and copious.
The climate is exceedingly various. Some parts of
the county, such as the seaboard of the Clyde and the
Vale of Leven, are comparatively genial, while other
parts, as the pastoral lancls of Arrochar and the plateaux
of the Kilpatriek Hills, are comparatively severe. Even
388
small tracts only a few miles distant from one another
are so strongly affected by the configuration of the sur-
face as to differ widely in regard to heat, moisture, and
the winds. Nowhere in Scotland do heights and hol-
lows act more powerfully on climate, the former in the
way of attracting or cooling, the latter in ventilating or
warming. Even in places so near and like one another
as Keppoch, Camus Eskan, Ardincaple, and Bellretiro,
the aggregate rain-fall, as ascertained by gauges all
of one construction, was respective!}' 43 "15, 45 "5, 50 '57,
and 52 '5. The climate, on the whole, however, is good.
There is more moisture, indeed, than in many other
parts of Scotland, but the excess is not so much in the
quantity that falls as in the length of time it takes to
fall ; and whatever disadvantage arises from a corre-
sponding excess of cloudiness, seems to be well counter-
balanced by the prevalence of the genial "W wind
during no less than about nine months in the j^car.
Sharp E winds blow in spring, but, even in their
sharpest moods, they are not so keen as in the eastern
counties, and are much less accompanied with frosty
fogs.
The formation consists of mica slate in the N, with
dj'kes of whinstone and greenstone ; Lower Silurian
towards the S ; and Old Red sandstone along the Clj"de
estuary, where trap rocks of various kinds form Dum-
barton Castle Rock and Dumbuck Hill, besides the
main bulk of the Kilpatriek Hills. Mica slate, always
stratified, often laminated, and generally compris-
ing much mica, much quartz, and very little fel-
spar, forms the greater part of the highest and
most striking uplands of the N. The quartz of the
mica slate is sometimes so extremely abundant as to
render the rock more properly quartzose than micaceous.
The mica slate likewise passes occasionally into talc
slate, and both the mica slate and the talc slate, be-
tween Tarbet and Luss, are intersected by beds of
gi'eenstone, felspar, and porphyry. Clay slate is also
plentifirl in the N, lies generally on the mica slate, is
frequently traversed by veins of quartz, abounds with iron
pyrites, and is quarried as a roofing slate at Luss and
Camstradden. A kind of limestone slate, or a laminated
rock strongly charged with lime, occm-s in the same
tracts as the clay slate. Greywacke, chiefly amorphous,
seldom slaty, and often abounding with quartz, com-
mences a little S of Camstradden slate quarrj', and forms
a large portion of the parishes of Row and Cardross. A
bluish -black limestone is frequently associated with the
greywacke. Old Red sandstone extends from the lower
part of Loch Lomond, through the western part of Bon-
hill, and through Cardross and Row, to the SW of Rose-
neath. A yellow sandstone of quite different lithological
character from the Old Red sandstone, easily chiseled,
but hardening by exposure, occurs at some parts of the
seaboard of the Clyde, and extends at intervals and fit-
fully to Netherton -Garscube. Carboniferous limestone,
coal, shale, and small beds of ironstone lie above the
sandstones in the eastern wing of the main body of the
county, and throughout the detached district ; but
they aggregately yield a very poor produce compared
with that of other Scottish regions of the coal forma-
tion, Dumbartonshire's mineral output for 1878 being
210,520 tons of coal and 3000 of fireclay.
The land area of the county is 154,541^ acres, but
was formerly over-estimated at 167,040 acres ; and, by a
competent agricultural authority, who so over-estimated
it, was classified into 6050 acres of deep black loam,
30,970 of clay on a subsoil of till, 25,220 of gi-avel or
gravelly loam, 3750 of green hilly pasture, 99,400 of
mountain and moor, 720 of bog, and 930 of isles in
Loch Lomond. The rivalry of proprietors in the
lowland districts, the demand from the markets of
Glasgow and Greenock, the great increase of general
local trade, and the new facilities of communication by
steamboats and railways, have powerfully stimulated
agricultural improvement. Draining, fencing, reclama-
tion, skilful manuring, ameliorated courses of rotation,
and the use of better implements, have all been brought
largely into play, with the result of greatly enhancing
AH^'-oa ^:aia3.
1
r-
DUMBARTONSHIRE
DUMBARTONSHIRE
the value of land and increasing the amount of produce,
lu ISrO the percentage of the cultivated area was 24 '9,
in ISSl 26 "8, viz., 5 '8 under corn crops, 2'8 under green
crops, 7 7 under clover, etc., and 10 '4 under permanent
pasture. A great extension of sheep-farming, begun in
the early part of the present century, went on vigorously
and rapidly in the upland districts ; and was accom-
panied there by the practice of nioor-burning, which
occasioned such a change on the face of the hills, that
tracts formerly brown and heathy are now covered with
pasture. The growth of copsewood on lands unfit for
tillage or pasture has long been much practised ; and,
besides being ornamental to the landscape, yields a
considerable revenue. In 1872 there were 83S8 acres
under wood. The cattle, in the upland districts, are
of the Highland breeds ; in the lowland disti'icts, gene-
rally either crosses between these and the Ayrshire, or,
on dairy farms or for dairy purposes, pure Ayrshire.
The sheep, on the hill districts, are mostly the black-
faced ; on the low grounds, are generally the Cheviot,
with some mixture of English breeds. The native horses
are small animals, of intermediate character between
the ordinary cart-horse and Highland pony ; and with
few exceptions are scarcely ever used in field labour.
Cl3'desdale horses, either purchased in the Lanarkshire
markets or bred from good stallions, are in common use
on the arable farms. Sw^ne, mostly for home use, are
kept by almost all the farmers, and by many cottagers.
Herds of fallow deer are on luchmurrin and Inchlonaig
in Loch Lomond ; and red deer once abounded in the
mountain districts, but were long ago exterminated.
Bee-keeping is largely carried on, especially at Clynder.
Manufactures struck I'oot in Dumbartonshire in the
year 1728, and were greatly stimulated and extended
b}' the formation of good roads, the deepening of the
Clyde, the opening of the Forth and Clyde Canal, the
introduction of steam navigation, and the opening of
successively the Dumbartonshire, the Vale of Leven, the
Forth and Clyde, the Dumbarton and Helensburgh,
and the Strathendrick I'ailways. They have also derived
increase, from demands and facilities for shipbuilding,
from the growing increase of summer tourists to Loch
Lomond and Loch Long, and from summer residence of
multitudes of Glasgow citizens at Helensburgh, Gareloch-
head, Roseneath, Kilcreggan, Cove, Arrochar, and other
places ; and they now figure so largely and vigorously as to
compete in value ^vith the arts of agriculture. Most of
the low tracts of the county, even such as possess no
coal within their o'wn limits, have followed Glasgow and
tried to rival it in some of its departments of manufac-
ture. The Vale of Leven, in particular, is crowded with
bleachfields, printfields, dye-works, and cotton-works,
giving employment to thousands. Cotton-printing,
cotton-spinning, paper -making, iron -working, ship-
building, the making of chemicals, and the distilling of
whisky are all more or less prominent. The salmon and
herring fisheries are also highly important and lucrative.
The Forth and Clyde Canal, besides serving for water
conveyance, concentrates some trade around its W end
at Bowling Bay. The deepening of the Clyde, in addi-
tion to its greatly improving the navigation and stimulat-
ing commerce, produced the incidental advantage of
adding to the county about 600 acres of rich land — the
spaces behind the stone walls, formed for confining the
tidal current, having rapidly filled up with a fine
alluvial deposit, which soon became available first
for meadow and next for the plough. The steamboat
communication is very ample, including lines up and
down Loch Lomond, and connecting all the chief places
on the Clyde and on the sea-lochs with Greenock and
Glasgow. The railways comprise a continuous line
from Helensburgh east-south-eastward through Dum-
barton to the south-eastern boundary at the Kelvin, and
various other lines and branch lines, which are all linked
by junctions into the general railway system of Scotland.
The only royal burgh is Dumbarton. The other
towns are Helensburgh, Kirkintilloch, Alexandria,
Bonhill, Renton, and Cumbernauld. The chief villages
are Arrochar, Balloch, Bowling Bay, Cardross, Clyde-
bank, CondoiTat, Cove, Dalmuir, Dalshohn, Dum-
buck, Duntocher, Faifley, Gairlochhead, Garscadden,
Garscube, Hardgate, Jamestown, Kilcreggan, Knights-
wood, Little Alill, Luss, Milton, Nctherton, New Kil-
patrick. Old Kilpatrirk, Roseneath, Smithston Rows,
Waterside, with parts of Yoker and Lenzic. The prin-
cipal seats are Arden House, Ardincaple, Ardmore,
Ardoch, Auchendennan, Auchentorlie, Auclientoshan,
Balloch Castle, Balvie, Baremman, Barnhill, Bloomhill,
Bonhill Place, Boturich Castle, Cameron House, Camus
Eskan, Clober House, Cockno House, Cowden Hill,
Craigrownie, Cumbernauld House, Darleith, Dumbuck
House, Edinbarnet, Finnart, Garscadden, Garscube,
Gartshae House, Glenarbuck, Helenslee, Keppoch,
Killermont, Kilmahew, Kilmardinny, Knoxland, Len-
noxbank, Roseneath Castle, Rossdhu, Strathleven,
Stuckgowan, Tillechewan Castle, Westerton House,
and Woodhead. According to Miscellaneous Statistics
of the United Kingdom. (1S79), 153,736 acres, with a
total gross estimated rental of £325,407, were divided
among 2346 landowners, . one holding 67,041 acres
(rental £12,943), two together 15,979 (£8794), eight
20.221 (£29,970), twelve 17,515 (£24,745), eighteen
12,152 (£15,336), sixty-three 14,737 (£67,632), etc.
The places of worship within the civil county, in 1881,
were 17 quoad civilia parish churches, 9 quoad sacra
parish churches, 3 chapels of ease, 21 Free churches, 11
U.P. churches, 1 United Original Secession church, 1
Independent chapel, 2 Baptist chapels, 1 Methodist
chapel, 1 Evangelical Union chapel, 3 Episcopal churches,
and 5 Roman Catholic churches. In Sept. 1880 the
county had 50 schools (39 of them public), which, with
total accommodation for 11,695 children, had 9729
on the registers and 7171 in average attendance, the
certificated, assistant, and pupil teachers numbering
96, 8, and 87.
The county is governed (1882) by a lord-lieutenant,
a vice-lieutenant, 22 deputy-lieutenants, a sheriff, a
sheriff-substitute, and 109 magistrates. The sheriff
court for the county, and the commissarj'' court are
held at Dumbarton on every Tuesday and Friday
during session ; sheriff's small debt courts are held at
Dumbarton on every Tuesday during session and occa-
sionally during vacation ; at Kirkintilloch, on the first
Thursdays of March, June, September, and December ;
and quarter sessions are held at Dumbarton on the first
Tuesdays of March, May, and August, and the last
Tuesday of October. The county gaol is at Dumbarton,
and has been noticed in our account of that town. The
committals for crime, in the annual average of 1841-45,
were 77 ; of 1846-50, 127 ; of 1851-55, 141 ; of
1856-60, 87 ; of 1861-65, 77 ; of 1865-70, 89 ; of 1871-
75, 50 ; of 1876-80, 57. The police force of the county,
in 1881, excluding 9 men for Dumbarton, comprised 43
men ; and the salary of the chief constable was £250.
The number of persons tried at the instance of the
police, in 1880, was 785 ; convicted, 731 ; committed for
trial, 45 ; not dealt with, 35. Exclusive of Dumbarton,
the county returns a member to parliament (Liberal
1837-41, Lib.-Con. 1841-68, Con. 1868-81), its constitu-
ency numbering 3009 in 1882. The annual value of real
property, assessed at £71,587 in 1815, was £147,079 in
1843, £272,138 in 1875, and £384,627 in 1882, or, in-
cluding railways, etc., £458,761, 13s. Pop. (1801)
20,710, (1811) 24,169, (1821) 27,317, (1831) 33,211,
(1841) 44,296, (1851) 45,103, (1861) 52,034, (1871)
58,857, (1881) 75,327, of whom 37,311 Mere males, and
38,016 females. Houses (1881) 14,259 inhabited, 1238
vacant, 191 building.
The registration county takes in a part of New Kil-
patritk parish from Stirlingshire, and had, in 1881, a
population of 78,176. All the parishes are assessed for
the poor, and 9 of them, with 3 in Stirlingshire and 1 in
Perthshire, are included in Dumbarton poor law com-
bination. The number of registered poor, during the
year ending 14 May 1880, was 1313 ; of dependants on
these, 881 ; of casual poor, 899 ; of dependants on
these, 773. The receijits for the poor in the same
vear were £14,408 ; and the expenditure was£13,790.
^ 389
DUMBARTONSHIRE RAILWAY
The number of pauper lunatics was 148, and the ex-
penditure on their account was £1163, 3s. 6d. The per-
centage of illegitimate births was 67 in 1871, 5 '9 in
1876, 5 '4 in 1879, and 4-8 in 1880.
The territory now forming Dumliartonshire belonged
anciently to the Caledonian Damnonii or Attacotti ; was
included by the Romans in their province of Yespasiana ;
and, exclusive of its detached district, was long a main
part of the ancient district of Lennox or Levenax.
That district included a large part of what is now Stir-
lingshire, and portions of what are now Perthshire and
Renfrewshire. It was constituted a county by AVilliam the
Lyon, and underwent curtailments after some period in
the 13th century, reducing it to the limits of the present
main body of Dumbartonshire. The county then changed
its name from Lennox to Dumbartonshire ; and, in the
time of Robert I. , had annexed to it its present detached
district. It was the scene of many contests between
Caledonians and Romans, between Cumbrians and
Saxons, between Scots and Picts, between Highland
clan and Highland clan, between the caterans and the
Lowlanders, between different parties in the several
civil wars of Scotland ; and made a great figure, espe-
cially in the affairs of Antoninus' Wall and those
of the Cumbrian or Strathclyde kingdom, in the events
of the wars of the succession, and the turmoils of the
cateran forays in the time of Eob Roy. Some of the
salient points in its history are touched in the account
of Dumbarton Castle, and in the article on Lennox.
Several cairns and a cromlech still extant, several
rude stone coffins, and fire-hollowed canoes found
imbedded in the mud of the river close to the castle a
few years ago, are memorials of its Caledonian period.
A number of old rude forts or entrenchments, parti-
cularly in its Highland districts, are memorials of
Caledonian, Pictish, and Scandinavian warfare within
its limits. Vestiges of Antoninus' Wall, and relics
found on the site of that wall along all the N border of
its detached district, and along the SE border of its
main Ijody onward to the wall's western end at Chapel-
hill in the vicinity of Old Kilpatrick village, and an
ancient bridge and a sudatorium at Duntocher, are
memorials of the Romans. Several objects in Dum-
barton Castle, and particularly historical records in
connection with the castle, are memorials of the civil
wars ; a mound in the E end of Cardross parish, not
far from Dumbarton town, indicates the last residence
or death -place of Robert Bruce ; numerous old castles,
some scarcely traceable, some existing as ruins, some
incorporated with modern buildings, as at Faslane, Bal-
loch, Ardincaple, Dunglass, and Kirkintilloch, are
relics of the several periods of the baronial times ; and
other objects in various parts, particularly in Glenfruin,
are memorials of sanguinary conflicts among the clans.
See Joseph Irving's History of Du7nhartonshire, Civil,
Ecclesiastical, and Territorial (Dumb. 1860) ; his Book
of Dumhartonsliire (3 vols. 1879) ; and William Eraser's
Chiefs of Colquhoun and their Country (2 vols., Edinb.,
1869).
Dumbartonshire Railway. See Caledonian Rail-
way.
Dumbreck, a hill on the mutual boundary of Strath-
blane and Cam psie parishes, SW Stirlingshire, culminat-
ing l.| mile NNE of Strathblane village, and rising to an
altitude of 1664 feet above sea-level. It forms part of
the western chain of the Lennox Hills ; and overhangs
Ballagan Glen on the W, and Fin Glen on the E.
Dumbreck, a triangular loch (2xjs furl.) in Strath-
blane parisli, SW Stirlingshire, 1 mile SW of Strath-
bhine village.
Dumbuck, a village and a mansion in the W of Old
Kilpatrick parish, Dumbartonshire. The village stands
near the Clyde, If mile E by S of Dumbarton ; and the
nei'dibouriiig mansion, Dumbuck House, is the property
of John Edward Geils, Esrp (b. 1812; sue. 1843), who
owns 655 acres in the shire, valued at £1209 per annum.
Wooded Dumbuck Hill (547 feet), immediately to the
N, is a bold basaltic abutment from the south-western
extremity of the Kilpatrick Hills, that stoops preci- I
390
DUMFRIES
pitously to Dumbarton plain. It commands a magni-
ficent prospect from Tinto to Arran, and from the
Grampians to Ayrshire ; and so much outtops Dum-
barton Castle as easily to command it by artillery, yet
was occupied with little efifect by Prince Charles Edward's
forces in the '45.
Dumbuils, an eminence (300 feet) in Forgandenny
parish, SE Perthshire, 1 mile SE of Forgandenny village.
Low, craggy, and elliptical, it has traces on the crests
of its accessible sides of an ancient bulwark, formed of
very large granite boulders ; and it commands a brilliant
view of Lower Strathearn and the Firth of Tay.
Dumcrieff, a handsome mansion, with finely wooded
grounds, in Moffat parish, N Dumfriesshire, on the
right bank of Moffat Water, 2 miles SE of IMoffat town.
Owned first by Murrays, then by the future Sir George
Clerk of Penicuik, it was the residence about 1785 of
John Loudon Macadam, of road-making celebrity, and
next of Burns's biographer, Dr James Currie (1756-
1805), by whom, a few months before his death, it was
sold to l)r John Rogerson (1741-1823), court physician
at St Petersburg for close upon fifty years, it now
belongs to his great-grandson. Lord Polio, who holds
7220 acres in the shire, valued at £3044 per annum.
See DuNCKTJB.
Dumfin, an eminence (200 feet) in Luss parish, Dum-
bartonshire, on the left bank of Fruin W^ater, 3 miles
ENE of Helensburgh. It takes its name, signifying
'the fort of Fin,' from its legendary connection with
Fingal ; and it has traces of an ancient fort.
Dumfries, a to^-n and a parish on the SW border of
Dumfriesshire. A royal and parliamentary burgh, a
seaport— since the era of railways of little importance —
a seat of manufacture, the capital of Dumfriesshire, the
assize town for the south-western counties, and practically
the metropolis of a great extent of the S of Scotland,
the town stands on the left bank of the river Nith, and
on the Glasgow and South-Wcstern railway at the
junction of the lines to Lockerbie and Portpatrick, by
rail being 14^ miles WSW of Lockerbie, 15 J AVNW of
Annan, 19| NE of Castle-Douglas, 80^ ENE of Port-
Patrick, 42i SE of Cumnock, 92 SE by S of Glasgow,
S9f S by W"of Edinburgh, 33 WNV: of Cariisle, and 333|
NNW of London. The site is mainly a gentle elevation,
nowhere higher than 80 feet above sea-level, partly the
low flat ground at its skirts ; extends about 1 mile from N
to S, parallel to the river ; rises steeply from the banks
at the N end, and is blocked there by a curve in the
river's course ; and bears the lines of Castle Street and
High Street along its summit. Maxwelltown, along
the Kirkcudbrightshire bank of the Nith, directly oppo-
site and nearly of the same length as Dumfries, seems
to be rather a part of the town than a suburb, and is
partly included in the parliamentary (though not in the
royal) burgh. Behind JMaxwelltown to the W is Corbelly
Hill, a broad-based, round, and finely-outlined elevation,
on the summit of which stand a church and convent of
the Immaculate Conception, erected in 1881-82, from de-
signs by Messrs Pugin, for Nuns of the Perpetual Adora-
tion of the Blessed Sacrament ; whilst a little lower down
is a picturesque building, serving the double purpose
of an observatory and a museum of natural history and
antiquities The view from the top of this hill is very
extensive, and also of great natural beauty — the broad
and level valley, for the most part highly cultivated,
of the Nith, abounding in mansions, villas, gardens, and
nursery grounds ; the iloH'at and Galloway Hills, with
the higher peaks of Queensberry and Criffel ; and, over
the Solway, the far-away Cumberland mountains. Alto-
gether, the landscape, seen from the top of Corbelly Hill,
is not so unlike the plains of Lombardy. Dumfries itself,
in architectural structure, relative position, social charac-
ter, marketing importance, and general influence, holds a
high rank among the towns of the kingdom. It is a
minor capital, ruling in the S with nearly as much sway
as Edinburgh in the E. It has either within itself or
in its immediate outskirts an unusually large proportion
of educated and wealthy inhabitants, giving evident
indication of their presence in the tone and manners ;
DUMFRIES
DUMFRIES
and is seen at once, by even a passing stranger, to be a
place of opulence, taste, and pretension. It has some-
times been called, by its admirers, ' the Queen of the
South ; ' and it was designated by the poet Burns, ' Maggie
by the banks o' Nith, a dame wi' pride eneuch.' It is
the cynosure of the south-western counties ; and it
swaj's them alike in the interests of mind, of trade,
and of commerce. It has no rival or competitor,
none at least that can materially compare with it,
between Ayr and Carlisle, or between the Irish Sea and
the Lowther ilountains. And even as a town, though
other influential towns were not remote, it challenges
notice for its terraces and pleasant walks beside
the river ; for its lines and groups of villas around
its outskirts ; for its picturesqueness of aspect as
seen from many a vantage-ground in the near vici-
nity ; for the spaciousness of its principal streets ;
and for a certain, curious, pleasing romance in the
style and collocation of many of its edifices. It so
blends regularity of alignment with irregularity as to
be far more fascinating than if it were strictly regular ;
and it so exhibits its building material, a red-coloured
Permian sandstone, now in the full flush of freshness
from the quarry, now in worn aspects of erosion by time,
as to present a tout ensemble of mingled sadness and
gaiety.
Three bridges connect Dumfries and Maxwelltown ;
but only the uppermost one is available for carriages ;
and this commands a good view of all the riverward
features of the burgh and the suburb, stretching partly
to the N but chiefly to the S. The space along the
Dumfries bank, between the bridges, is a wide street-
terrace ; the space further down, to a much greater dis-
tance, is an expanded or very wide street-terrace, used
partly as the cattle market, partly as a timber market,
and called the Sands ; and the space still further down,
opposite the foot of the town and a long way past it, is
a broad grassy promenade, fringed along the inner side
by a noble umbrageous avenue, and called the Dock.
The central streets present an array of fairly well-ap-
pointed shops. All the streets are paved, drained, clean,
and well-lighted ; and outlets on the roads to the N, to
the S, and to the E are studded with villas. Yet parts
of the to^^^l, particularly numerous lanes or closes off
High Street, some intersecting lanes from street to
street, and portions of the old narrow streets are disagree-
able and unwholesome. The Nith contributes much to
both salubrity and beauty ; ajJproaches, in long winding
sweeps, imder high banks richly clothed with wood ;
breaks immediately beyond the lower bridge, over a
high caul, built for the water supply of gi-ain mills on
the Maxwelltown side ; swells into a lake-like expanse
above the caul ; leaps into rapid current at low tide
below it ; is driven back by the flow of tide against it ;
and, both above and below the town, to the extent of
several miles, has verdant banks tracked mth public
roads and footpaths.
The uppermost bridge was built in 1790-94 ; encoun-
tered great difficulties in the erection ; cost, with the
approaches to it, £4588 ; and occasioned, for the forming
of Buccleuch Street, an additional cost of £1769 ; and is
a structure more substantial than elegant, yet not desti-
tute of beauty. The middle bridge was built in the 13th
century by Devorgilla, mother of John Baliol ; and for
many long generations was held to be second only
to London Bridge. It had originally nine arches, and
is commonly, but erroneously, said to have had thirteen ;
suS"ered, in course of burghal improvements, demolition
of about one-third of its length at the Dumfries end ;
has now only six arches ; is ascended, at the Dumfries
end, by a flight of steps, so as to be accessible only by
foot passengers ; and makes a prominent figure both in
curious picturesqueness and as a great work of the early
mediseval times. The lowermost bridge was opened on
the last day of 1875 ; cost nearly £1800 ; is an iron
suspension structure for pedestrians ; mcasui-es 203 feet
in length and 6^ feet in width ; and has sides of trellis
work rising 35 feet from the roadway to the finial. The
County Buildings stand on the S side of the lower part
of Buccleuch Street ; were erected in 1863-66, after
designs by David Rhind, of Edinburgh, with aid of
£10,418 from Government ; are in the Scottish Baronial
style, with peaked towers and open Italianised para-
pets ; present an imposing castellated appearance ; rise
to a height of four stories, including a sunk story ; and
contain a court-hall with accommodation for 300 persons,
and offices or rooms for all departments of the county
business. The prison of 1851, adjoining the E end of
the County Buildings, is surrounded by a high wall,
that greatly disfigures the aspect of the street. This
building, not fulfilling the requirements deemed necessary
in modern prisons, has been condemned ; and a .site for
a new one was purchased by government in 1881 for
£1400 on the western outskirts of Maxwelltown. The
Town-Hall, on the N side of Buccleuch Street, opposite
the prison, was originally the spacious chapel or ' taljer-
nacle ' erected by Robert Haldane in 1799. Having
stood for some years unoccupied after the Haldane
collapse, it was purchased in 1814, altered, renovated,
and architecturally adorned, to be used as the county
courthouse ; and, after the opening of the new County
Buildings in 1866, was sold for £1020 to the town
council. Within it hang portraits of William and Mary
of Orange, and Charles, the third Duke of Queensberry ;
and here is preserved the famous Silver Gun of the Seven
Trades, the mimic cannon, 10 inches long, which James
VI. presented to the craftsmen in 1617, to be shot for
on Kingholm Merse — a custom kept up till 1831. The
stack of buildings in the centre of High Street, cleaving
it for a brief space into two narrow thoroughfares, con-
tains the old town council room, and is surmounted by
a steeple called originally the Tron, but now the Mid,
Steeple. This steeple was erected in 1707, at a cost of
£1500, from designs (not of Inigo Jones, but) of a cer-
tain Tobias Bachup of Alloa. It figures prominently,
both in the High Street's own range and in every land-
scape view of the town, but has now a weather-worn and
neglected appearance. The Trades Hall, on the E side
of High Street opposite the Mid Steeple, was rebuilt
in 1804 at a cost of £11,670 ; and, the trades' corpora-
tion privileges having been abolished in 1846, was
sold to a merchant in 1847 for £650. The Assembly
Rooms stand in George Street, were erected at a compara-
tively recent period, and are neat and commodious.
The Theatre, in Shakespeare Street, built in 1790, and
rebuilt and decorated in 1876, was the scene of early
eftbrts of Edmund Kean and Macready. A Doric column
to the memory of the third Duke of Queensberry was
erected in Queensberry Square in 1804 ; and an orna-
mental public fountain (1860) stands in the centre of
the lower expansion of High Street.
The railway station stands at the north-eastern extre-
mity of the town ; was constructed, in lieu of a previous
adjacent one, in 1863; and contains accommodation for
the junctions of the lines from Lockerbie and Portpatrick
with the Glasgow and South-Western. It includes a fine
suite of buildings for offices, waiting-rooms, and hotel ;
had, till 1876, all its building on the W side of the rail-
wav, confronted, along the opposite side, by a broad
brilliant parterre ; but in 1875-76, preparatory to its be-
coming the working nexus between the Scottish systems
and the English Midland system, rmderwent great exten-
sion and improvement by the erection of a booking-office
and other buildings on the E side, the provision of three
times the previous amount of accommodation ibr goods,
the construction of new premises for engines and smiths'
shops, the formation of a great series of new sidings, the
laying down of three new lines of rails, and the opening
of a new approach street, so that it is now a station at
once handsome, picturesque, and commodious. A via-
duct of the Glasgow and Nortli-Wcstern railway crosses
the Nith about a mile N of the station ; and some other
railway works of considerable magnitude are in the
vicinity. Most of the banking-offices in the town are
neat or handsome edifices, and .several of them are of
recent erection. The King's Arms Hotel and the Com-
mercial Hotel, on the confronting sides of tlic lower ex-
pansion of High Street, are old and spacious cstahlish-
391
DUMFRIES
ments ; and the latter was the headquarters of Prince
Charles Edward during three days of Dec. 1745.
The QueensbeiTy Hotel, near the junction of English
Street and High Street, is a recent elegant erection.
The Southern Counties Club, in Irish Street, was
erected in 1874 ; is a handsome two-story edifice ; and con-
tains an elegant billiard room, 45 feet bj' 25, and other
fine large apartments. Nithsdale woollen factory, at
the foot of St Michael Street, overlooking the Dock
promenade, was erected in 1858-59 ; is a vast, massive,
turreted edifice, almost palatial in aspect ; and has a
chimney stalk rising to the height of 174 feet. Tro-
queer woollen factories, on the Kirkcudbrightshire side
of the Nith, almost directly opposite the Nithsdale fac-
tor)', are two structures of respectively 1866-67 and
1869-70, and more than compete with the Nithsdale
factory in both extent of area and grandeur of ajipear-
ance.
St Slichael's Established church stands off the E side
of St Michael Street, near the site of its pre -Reformation
predecessor. Built in 1744-45, and repewed and reno-
vated in 1869 and 1881, it contains 1250 sittings, and
is surmounted by a plain but imposing steeple, 130 feet
high. The churchyard around it — a burial-jilace for
upwards of seven centuries — is crowded with obelisks,
columns, urns, and other monuments of the dead, com-
puted to number folly 3000, and to have been raised at
an aggregate cost of from £30,000 to £100, 000. Among
them are the mausoleum of the poet Burns, a granite
]>yi'amid (1834) to the memory of three martyi's of the
Covenant, and over 300 'first-class monuments.' Grey-
friars Established church stands on the site of Dumfries
Castle, fronting the N end of High Street, and succeeded
a previous church on the same site, built in 1727 partly
of materials from the ancient castle. Itself erected in
1866-67, after designs by Mr Starforth, of Edinburgh,
at a cost of nearly £7000, it is a richly ornamented
Gothic edifice, the finest in the burgh, with a beautiful
spire 164 feet high. St Mary's Established church, at
the N end of English Street, on the site of a 14tli
century chantry, reared by the widow of Sir Christopher
Seton, was built in 1837-39, after designs by John Hen-
derson, of Edinburgh, at a cost of £2400. It also is
Gothic, with an open spire formed by flying buttresses,
and was renovated and reseated in 1878. The Free
church in George Street, built in 1843-44 at a cost of
£1400, is a plain mansion-like edifice, containing 984
sittings. The Territorial Free church, at the junction of
Shakespeare Street with the foot of High Street, was
built in 1864-65 at a cost of £1800, and contains
500 sittings. The U.P. church in Loreburn Street,
rebuilt in 1829 at a cost of more than £900, contains
500 sittings. The U.P. church in Buccleuch Street, re-
built in 1862-63, after designs by Alexander Crombie,
at a cost of £2000, is a handsome Gothic edifice,
and contains 700 sittings. The U.P. church, in Town-
head Street, was built in 1867-68 ; succeeded a previous
church in Queensberry Street, built in 1788 ; is a
handsome edifice ; and contains 460 sittings. The
Reformed Presbyterian church, on the E side of Irving
Street, was built in 1831-32, and interiorly recon-
structed in 1866 ; is a neat building ; and contains 650
.sittings. The Independent chapel, on the "VV side of
Irving Street, was built in 1835, enlarged in 1862,
repewed and renovated in 1880 ; is a neat structure in
the Italian style ; and contains 650 sittings. The Wes-
leyan chapel in Buccleuch Street, at the corner of Castle
Street, is a modest edifice, and contains 400 sittings.
The Episcopal church of St John's, in Dunbar Terrace,
was built in 1867-68, after designs by Slater and
Carpenter, of London ; is a striking structure in pure
First Pointed style, with a tower and spire 120 feet
high; and contains 460 sittings. The Catholic Apos-
tolic chapel, in Queen Street, was built in 1865 at a
cost of £1000, and is a small building with a towerlet
and pinnacle 58 feet high. The Baptist chapel in
Newall Terrace, successor to one in Irisli Street, is a
solid, plain edifice, seated for 420, erected in 1880
at a cost of £1900. The Roman Catholic church of St
DUMFRIES
Andrew, pro-cathedral of the diocese of Whithorn or
Galloway, in Shakespeare Street, near English Street,
was built in 1811-13 at a cost of £2600. Romanesque
in style with Byzautine features, it received the addition
of a fine tower and octagonal spire (1843-58), 147 feet
liigh, of N and S transepts and a domed apse (1871-72);
and in 1879 the interior was beautifully decorated with
arabesque designs. For all these improvements St
Andrew's is indebted to the Maxwells of Terrcgles, and
mainly to the late Hon. I\Iarmaduke Constable Maxwell,
a monument to whom was placed in it in 1876. The
Roman Catholic schools adjoining the cliuixh are ex-
cellent buildings ^vith separate departments for boys,
girls, and infants. Pupils on roll, 430 ; average attend-
ance, 360 ; Government gi'ant, May 1881, £296, Os. 6d.
The jMarist Brothers, a R.C. teaching order, a lay as-
sociation of men, under vows of obedience, poverty, and
chastity, have, since 1874, had their head house for the
three kingdoms at St l^Iichael's Mount, formerly Lam-al
Bank, a mansion within 5 or 6 acres of ground in a
south-eastern suburb. St Michael's Mount is also used
as a sanatorium for the invalided brothers of the Order ; a
Provincial resides ; and there is a Novitiate attached. St
Joseph's Commercial College, formerly the old infirmary
building, altered and enlarged, is a R.C. middle-class
boarding school for boys, conducted by these Marist
Brothers. About 40 pupils from various parts of the
kingdom, and a few foreigners, are instructed in modern
languages, mathematics, English, etc.
The Academy or High School, erected in 1802 on the
brow of the Nith's steep bank near Greyfriars' church,
is surrounded by a playground, 1-^ acre in extent,
and presents a plain j^et imposing appearance. With
accommodation for 500 scholars, it gives instruction
to boys and girls in classics, modern languages,
mathematics, arithmetic, -writing, drawing, and all de-
partments of English. Under the school-board, the
Academy is conducted by a rector, 3 other masters,
3 assistants, and 1 lady teacher, mth endo^^^nents
amounting to £262, and £48 per annum to keep up
fabric from the to\A-n. In 1882 there were 281 pupUs
on the roll. There are several bursaries — 1 of £18, 1 of
£15, 3 or 4 each of £12, and a number of special prizes,
besides 22 bursaries provided for by additional bequests,
entitling successful competitors to a free education at
the Academy, with use of books. There are 1 private
school for boys and 2 ladies' schools, all well attended.
There are 3 elementary board schools — Lorubum Street,
St Michael Street, and Greensands, of which the two
first were erected in 1876 at a cost of £3770 and £2800.
With respective accommodation for 500, 400, and 236,
the three had a total avei-age attendance of 1064 during
1881.
School fees — Elementary schools, . £639 10 3
,, Academy, . . . 1510 12 9
School rate, 1182 16 1
Teachers' salaries — Elementary schools, 1467 6 6
,, Academy, . . 1660 4 10
The Episcopal school — a small plain building in St
David Street — has 130 scholars on the roll, an average
attendance of 100, and a government grant of £80. The
Industrial school, Burns Street, founded in 1856, with
accommodation for 80 boys in 1882, is supported partly
by voluntary contribution and partly by government
grant. There are also an Industrial Home for destitute
and orphan girls, supported by voluntary contribution ;
and several charitable associations of a minor character.
In 1880, a Youn^ Men's Christian Association and a
Young Women's do. were established, both having since
been fairly well supported. The Mechanics' Institute
(1825), near the foot of Irish Street, was built in 1859-61,
and is a First Pointed edifice, including a lecture-hall
(76 X 58 feet ; 46 high), with accommodation for 1000
persons, in which cheap public lectures are delivered
during the winter montns. Connected Mith the main
building, but facing St Michael Street, stands the
antique town-house of the Stewarts of Shambelly, which
serves for reading-room and librarj', and is also the
librarian's residence. The Crichtoii Institution, on a
DUMFRIES
rising-ground off tlie public roail, IJ mile SSE of the
town, originated in a bequest of over £100,000 by Dr
James Crichton of Friars Carse. He had thought of a
university ; but, owing to the failure of attempts to
obtain a charter, his trustees decided to construct a
lunatic asvlum for affluent patients. As partially buUt
(1835-39), "at a cost of fully £50,000, it was to have
taken the form of a Greek cross, with central low
octagonal tower, but, as completed (1870) at a further
outlay of £40,000, it has somewhat departed from the
original plan, the whole being now a dignified Italian
edifice, one of whose finest featm-es is the magnificent
recreation hall. The neighbouring Southern Counties
Asylum, for pauper lunatics, was erected in 1848 at a
cost of £20,000 ; it and the Crichton Royal Institution
had respectively 359 and 145 inmates in ISSl.
The Dumfries parish schools (landward) ai'e Catherine-
field, Noblehill and Throhoughton, Kelton and Brown-
hall combined — three in all. For 1881 the aggregate
fees were £187, 5s. 5d. ; annual education grant £372,
10s. 6d. ; balance from rates £215, 16s. 7d. ; teachers'
salaries £652, 14s. lid. ; retiring allowances £70.
In 1879, the estate of Hannahfield and Kingholm
having fallen to the Queen as ultima hares, that portion
of the estate to the south of the town on the river bank,
known as Kingholm Merse, has been made over to the
coi-poration — subject to servitude in favour of the War
Department — for golf, cricket, and purposes of general
sport and recreation. The cro^vn has also granted a
gift of £9500 from the estate, in trust, for the improve-
ment of education in the counties of Dumfries and
Wigtown and in the stewartry of Kirkcudbright ; the
trustees to create bursaries and scholarships, open to
competition for pupUs educated in primary schools,
under the condition that successful competitors shall
continue their education at secondary schools or at
universities. The trustees have now in operation a
' tentative scheme for the Hannahfield bursaries ' in the
three counties, which is likely to be of great advantage
to many deserving students. But the scheme in its pre-
sent form is thought to be open to objection, and vnll
certainly be referred to the Education Department unless
a compromise is arrived at with objecting school-boards.
The Dumfries and Galloway Royal Infirmary stands
in a situation similar to that of the Crichton Institu-
tion, a little nearer the town ; was erected in 1869-71,
after designs by ilr Starforth, at a cost of £13,000 ;
has aiTangements and appliances on the most ap-
proved plans ; and is maintained chiefly by legacies, sub-
scriptions, parochial allowances, and annual grants from
the coimties of Dumfries, Kirkcudbright, and Wigtown.
The workhouse occupies an airy healthy site to the S of
the town ; was erected in 1853-54 at a cost of more than
£5500 ; contains accommodation for 127 pauper inmates ;
serves entirely for the parish of Dumfries ; and has
commonly from 70 to 80 pauper inmates, maintained at
an annual cost of about £600. ilorehead's Hospital
stands in St Michael Street, opposite St Michael's
Church ; was fouuded and endowed, in 1733, by two
persons of the name of Morehead ; gives lodging and
support to poor orphans and aged paupers of both sexes,
and pensions to upwards of 40 widows at their own
homes ; and is maintained, partly by its own funds,
partly by subscriptions and donations.
Dumfries is broadly stamped with the name of the
poet Burns (1759-96). His term of residence here
flashed on the popular mind so vividly as to have been
at once and till the present day esteemed an epoch —
'the time of Bums.' The places in it associated with
his presence outnumber, at least outweigh, those in Ayr,
Irvine, Kilmamock, Tarbolton, Mauchline, or Edin-
burgh. He appeared first in the town on 4 Jime 1787,
and came to it then on invitation to be made an
honorary burgess. He became a resident in it, on re-
moval from Ellisland, in December 1791. For eighteen
months he lived in a house of three small apartments,
on the second floor of a tenement on the N side of
Bank Street, then called the Wee Vennel. He then
removed to a small, self-contained, two-story house
DUMFRIES
on the S side of a short mean street striking eastward
from St Michael Street, in the northern vicinity of St
Michael's Church. The street was then called Millbrae
or 5Iillbrae-Hole ; but, after Bums's death, was desig-
nated Burns Street. The house, in the smaller of whose
two bedrooms he died on 21 July 1796, was occupied
afterwards by his widow down to her death in 1834,
and purchased in 1850 by his son, Lieut. -Col. William
Kicol Burns. It is now occupied by the master of the
adjoining Industrial School, continues to be as much as
possible in the same condition as when Burns inhabited
it, and, through courtesy of its present occupant, is
shown to any respectable stranger. Nearly a hundred
of Burns's most popular songs, including ' Auld Lang-
syne,' 'Scots wha liae wi' Wallace bled,' 'A man's a man
for a' that,' '0 whistle and I'll come to ye, my lad,'
'My love is like a red, red rose,' 'Ye banks and braes o'
bonnie Doon,' 'Cauld kail in Aberdeen,' 'Willie Wastle,'
'Auld Rob Morris,' and 'Duncan Gray,' were written by
him either in this house or in the house in Bank Street.
Many objects, too, in and near the town, and many per-
sons who resided in or near it, are enshrined in his
verse. The High School which preceded the present
academy was made accessible to his children by a special
deed of the Town Council (1793), that put him on the
footing of a real freeman. The Antiburgher Church
in Loreburn Street, on the site of the present U.P.
church there, was frequently attended by him in ap-
preciation of the high excellence of the minister who
then served it. The pew which he more regularly
occupied in St Michael's Church bore the initials, ' R.
B, ' cut with a knife by his own hand ; and was sold, at
the repairing of the church in 1869, for £5. A window
pane of the King's Arms Hotel, on which he scratched
an epigi'am, drew for a long time the attention of both
townsmen and strangers. A volume of the Old Statisti-
cal Account of Scotland, belonging in his time to the
public library of which he was a member, was transferred
to the mechanics' institute, and bears an original verse
of his in his own bold handwriting. Another volume
there, a copy of De Lolme on the British Constitution,
presented by him to the library, contains an autograph
of his which was interpreted at the time to indicate
seditious sentiments. The Globe Tavern which he used
to frequent, and on a window of which he inscribed the
quadrain in praise of ' Lovely Polly Stewart ' and a new
version of ' Coming through the Rye,' retains an old-
fashioned chair on which he was wont to sit ; and the
mere building, situated in a narrow gloomy close ofl" High
Street, is hardly less replete with memories of him than
is the house in which he lived and died. To the Trades'
Hall, akeady noticed, his coffined corpse was removed
on the eve of his public funeral. The matrix of the
cast of his skull, taken at the interment of his widow
in 1834, continued in the possession of the townsman
who took it, and probably is still in safe keeping in
the town. His remains were originally buried in the N
comer of St IMichael's chm-chyard, with no other monu-
ment than a simple slab of freestone * erected by his
widow ; but, in 1815, were transferred to a vault in a more
appropriate part on the SE border, and honoured with a
mausoleum, erected by subscription of fifty guineas from
the Prince Regent and of various sums from a multitude
of admirers. The mausoleum, in the form of a Grecian
temple, after a design by Thomas F. Hunt, of London,
cost originally £1450, and contains a mural sculpture by
Turnerelli, representing the Poetic Genius of Scotland
throwing her mantle over Burns, in his rustic dress, at
the plough. It is now glazed in the inten-als between
its pillars, to protect the sculptiire from erosion by the
weather ; and, besides Bums's own remains, covers those
of his widow and their five sons. The late 'William
Ewart, I\I.P., placed a bust of the poet in a niche of the
front wall of the Industrial School ; and on 6 April 1882
Lord Rosebery unveiled Mrs D. 0. Hill's fine marble
* So says Mr M'Dowall, but, accordinjj to Dorothy Wordsworth,
there was ' no stone to mark the spot ' when, on IS Aug. 1803, with
Coleridfre and her brother William, she stood beside tlie 'untimely
grave of Burns.' Can it be that here too they were nnsinfurmed,
as in the case of Rob Roy's grave, noticed under Bau^iiiidijbr?
393
DUMFRIES
sutiie, on the open space in front of Greyfriars Church.
Nearly 10 feet high, it is raised 5 feet from the ground
on a pedestal of grey Dalbeattie granite ; and represents
Bui-ns, resting on an old tree root, in the act of produc-
ing one of his deathless lyrics. A collie snuggles to his
right foot, and near by lie bonnet, song-book, and shep-
herd's pipe. See William M'Dowall's Burns in Dum-
frksshirc (Edinb. 1S70).
Dumfries has a head post office, with money order,
savings' bank, insurance, and telegraph departments,
offices of the Bank of Scotland, the British Linen Co. ,
and the Clydesdale, Commercial, National, Royal, and
Union Banks, and offices or agencies of 30 insurance com-
panies. Three newspapers are published — the Liberal
and Independent Dumfries Courier (1809) on Tuesday,
the Conservative Dumfriesshire and Galloivay Herald
(1835) on Wednesday and Saturday, and the Liberal
Dumfries and Galloway Standard (1843) also on Wed-
nesday and Saturday. A weekly market of much
importance is held every AVcdnesday for the sale of
sheeji, cattle, pigs, etc. ; and on the same day, in a
covered building in Loreburn Street, a sale of butter and
eggs is held. Another market of secondary importance
is also held on Saturday. Horse fairs are held on a
Wednesday of February, either the second day of that
month 0. s. or the Wednesday after it, on the Wednes-
day before 26 May, on the AVednesday after 17 June o. s.,
on either 25 Sept. or the AVednesday after, and on the
AVednesday before 22 Nov. ; pork fairs are held on every
AVednesday of January, February, March, November,
and December ; and eight hiring fairs are held in the
course of the year. A sale of cattle on the Sands, at
the AVednesday weekly market, dates from 1659 ; was
preceded, from a time long before the Union, by a weekly
sale on Monday ; drew always large supplies from Dum-
friesshire and Galloway for transmission into England ;
rose progressively to such importance that, dming a
considerable course of years, so many as about 20,000
head of cattle were annually sold on the Sands to English
purchasers ; suffered a severe check, partly by the open-
ing of the railways, partly by weekly auction of live
stock, partly by other causes ; and became so reduced
toward 1865, that the number of cattle shown in that
year was only 9605. The number sent from the station,
in 1859, was 13,975, but in 1866 was only 3470. The
sale of sheep, at the weekly markets, seems not to have
commenced till about the end of last century ; but it
increased rapidly in result of the turnip husbandry ;
and it amounted, during the five years ending in 1866,
to the annual average of about 28, 000 sheep ; yet, like
the Sands or market sale of cattle, it was much curtailed
by auction sales and private transfer. The number
of sheep sent from the station, chiefly to England, in
1859, was 43,932; in 1865, 47,105; "in 1881, 60,000.
The total sale of cattle and sheep on the Sands, and in
the auction marts, in 1866, was 9828 cattle and 47,239
sheep. The sale of pork, in the weekly market on the
Sands, for many years prior to 1832, amounted usually
to upwards of 700 carcases in one day, in the busiest
part of the year, often to many more, but it also re-
ceived a severe check by the opening of the railways
and by other causes. The number of carcases shown on
the Sands in all 1859, was only 13,550 ; in 1867, 10,235.
The stock sold in the market or at auction in 1881 were,
cattle 26,415, sheep 82,327, calves 1352, pigs 1086. The
number of horses sold is also very large.
The port of Dumfries is strictly the river Nith, in its
run of 14 J miles to the channel of the Solway, but com-
prises besides all the Scottish side of the Firth, from
Sarkfoot to Kirkandrews Bay ; and includes, as creeks or
sub-ports, Annan, Barlochan, and Kirkcudbright. Its
harbourage nearly everywhere is tidal, with great dis-
advantage from the peculiar ' bore ' of the Solway — a
sudden rapid breast of water of short duration, followed
by hours of total recess, leaving nothing but shallow
fresh-water streams across great breadths of foreshore.
At Dumfries itself there is no better accommodation
than a series of quays, one at Dumfries dock, .and three
at intervals down to a distance of 5 miles. The naviga-
894
DUMFRIES
tion of the Nith was always difficult ; but, in years prior
to 1834, at a cost of £18,930, it underwent material
improvement. A rock which obstructed the channel
at Glencaple, 5 miles below the toAvn, was cut away ;
other obstacles in the river's bed were removed ; the
landing-places at the river's mouth, and the lighthouse
on Southerness flanking the mouth, were put in better
condition ; a quay at Glencaple, and two quays at Kel-
ton, and near Castledyke, between Glencaple and the
town, were constructed. The quay at the town itself
was renovated and extended, and embankments and
other works, to counteract the devastating eff"ect of the
tide's impetuous rush up the river, were formed. The
town's harbour, in consequence, became safer for small
vessels, accessible to larger vessels than before, and ac-
cessible also to coasting steamers ; yet, in result of suc-
cessively the opening of the Glasgow and South-Western
railway in 1850, the opening of the Castle-Douglas and
Dumfries railway in 1859, the opening of the Lockerbie
and Dumfries railway in 1863, the opening of the Sil-
loth railway and wet-dock in 1864, and the opening of
the Solway Junction railway in 1869, it has lost an
amount of traffic more than equal to all that it pre-
viously gained. The revenue from the harbour, in 1831,
was a little short of £1100 ; in 1844, £1212 ; in 1864,
£555 ; in 1867, £474 ; in 1881, £332, 7s. 9d. The
tonnage belonging to the port and sub-ports, which
averaged 8292 during 1840-44, had risen to 15,286 in
1860, but sank to 11,682 in 1866, to 7764 in 1873, and
to 3971 on 31 Dec. 1881. In 1881, the tonnage of ships
inwards was 32,469; outwards, 32,869. The principal
imports are timber, slate, iron, coal, wine, hemp, and
tallow ; and the principal exports are wheat, barley,
oats, potatoes, wool, and sandstone. The customs, which
averaged £8576 a year during 1840-44, and £11,540
during 1845-49, amounted to £6524 in 1864, to £4986
in 1869, to £4583 in 1874, and (inclusive of duty on
British spirits) to £7500 in 1881.
The productive industry of Dumfries, till a recent
period, went little beyond ordinary local artisanship,
but it is now vigorous and flourishing in various im-
portant departments of trade and manufacture. The
large number of wai-ehouses and shops bears evidence to
a healthy amount of competition among business people,
both for the ordinary retail trade, and also for the
wholesale supply of numerous county towns and villages.
There are two important foundries, one very extensive,
for the construction and repair of engines, agricultural
machines, implements, etc. The manufacture of hosiery
is increasing yearly in importance, and gives employ-
ment to a large number of hands in several factories of
considerable size. Tanning and currying, and coach-
building are also important, and there are many em-
ployers of skilled labour, of high standing, in various
departments of trade. The manufacture of tweeds was
introduced in 1847, and has gone on since then steadily
increasing. There are several factories of moderate
size, and three of the largest size, the latter now (1882)
owned by one firm (Messrs AA^'alter Scott & Sons), and
employing a large number of hands.
Constituted a royal burgh by David I. (1124-53), and
divided into four wards, Dumfries is governed by a pro-
vost, 3 bailies, a dean of
guild, a treasurer, and
22 other councillors.
The General Police and
Improvement Act of
Scotland was adopted
prior to 1871 ; and the
magistrates and town
councillors act as com-
missioners of police.
The income of the police
commissioners arises
chiefly from rates, and
in 1880-81 amounted to
£4619, 19s. 7d. The
assize or justiciary court
is held twice a year. The shcrifl" court for the county is
Seal of Dumfrioi
DUMFRIES
DUMFRIES
held every Tuesday and Friday during session ; the sheriff
small debt court, and the debts recovery act court, every
Tuesday in time of session, and on the same days that
ordinary courts are held in vacation. A court of county
justices is held in Dumfries every Monday. The water
and gas works of the burgh are public propertj', and are
well managed, the rates to consumers steailily diminish-
ing. With Annan, Kirkcudbright, Lochmaben, and
Sanquhar, Dumfries I'eturns one member to parliament
(always a Liberal since 1837) ; in 1SS2 its parliamentary
constituency numbered 1858, its municipal 1282.
Corporation revenue (1867) £1599, (1875) £2360, (1881)
£2204. Valuation (1861) £30,028, (1870) £42,860,
(1882) £57,713, of which £4344 was in railways. Pop.
of royal burgh (1841) 10,069, (1851) 11,107, (1861)
12,313, (1871) 13,710, (1881) 15,759; of parliamentary
burgh (1851) 13,166, (1861) 14,023, (1871) 15,435,
(1881) 17,090, of whom 9283 were females. Houses
in parliamentary burgh (1881) 3642 inhabited, 174
vacant, 17 building.
The name Dumfries was anciently written Dunfres,
and is supposed to have been derived from the Gaelic
words dun and phreas, signifying 'a mound covered
with copse wood,' or 'a hill-fort among shrubs.' A
slight rising-gi'ound on the area now occupied by Grey-
friars Church was the site of an ancient fort, afterwards
reconstructed into a sti-ong castle ; is presumed to have
been clothed with copse or natural shrubs ; and appears
to have given origin to the name. The burgh's armorial
bearing was anciently a chevron and three fleur-de-lis,
but came to be a winged figure of St Michael, ti'ampling
on a dragon and holding a pastoral staff. The motto
is, 'A'loreburn' — a word that, during centuries of
sfruggle against invaders, was used as a war-cry to
muster the townsmen. The side toward the English
border being that whence invasion usually came, a place
of rendezvous was appointed there on the banks of a rill
called the Lower Burn, nearly in the line of the present
Loreburn Street ; and when the townsmen were sum-
moned to the gathering, the cry was raised, ' All at the
Lower Bum, ' — a phrase that passed by elision into the
word 'A'loreburn.' A village, which ere the close of
the 10th century had sprung up under the shelter of
the fort on the copse-covered mound, grew gradually
into a town, and was the seat of the judges of Galloway
in the reign of William the Lyon, who died, in 1214, about
which period or a little later it seems to have become a
centre of considerable traffic. Streets on the line of the
present Friars' Vennel and of the northern part of High
Street, with smaller thoroughfares toward Townhead
and Loreburn Street, appear to have been its oldest
portions ; and are supposed to have had, about the
middle of the 13th century, nearly 2000 inhabitants.
The erection of the old bridge before the middle of the
13th century, together with the high character which
that structure originally possessed, indicates distinctly
both the importance then attained by the town and
the line in which its chief riverward thoroughfare
ran ; and another structure, erected by the same
bountiful lady who erected the bridge, also indicates the
position of the nucleus around which the town lay.
This was a Minorite or Greyfriars' monastery, situated
near the head of Friars' Vennel, where now the Burns
Statue stands ; and, small though it was, as compared
with many abbeys, it seems to have been a goodly
First Pointed edifice, comprising an aisled church, a
range of cloisters, a refectory, and a dormitory. In
1286 Robert Bruce the Competitor and the Earl of
Carrick, his son, mth banner displayed assaulted and
captured the castle of Dumfries, a royal fortress of the
child-queen Margaret, the Maid of Norway ; and in
the summer of 1300 King Edward I., on his way to the
siege of Caerlaverock, seized and garrisoned this castle,
and added the high square keeji, part of which re-
mained standing till 1719. In the beginning of 1306
the famous Robert Bruce was in London, called thither
as King Edward's counsellor, when a warning of peril
was sent him by the Duke of Gloucester, his friend —
a sum of money and a pair of spurs. The hint was
enough ; that day he started for Scotland, his horse shod
backwards, that the hoof-prints might throw pursuers
off the track. On February the 4th he halted at Dum-
fries, where the English justiciars were sitting in assize
— John Comyn of Badenoch, surnamed the Red, among
the throng of barons in attendance. Him Bruce en-
countered in the church of the Minorites, and, falling
into discourse, made the proposal to him : ' Take you
my lands, and help me to the throne ; or else let me
take yours, and I will uphold your claim.' Comyn
refused, with talk of allegiance to Edward, and their
words waxed hotter and hotter, till, drawing his dagger,
Bruce struck a deadly blow, then hurried to his friends,
who asketl if aught were amiss. ' I must be off, ' was the
answer, 'for I doubt I have .slain the Red Comyn.'
'Doubt ! ' cried Kirkpatrick of Closeburn, ' I mak sikar ;'
and, with Sir John de Lindsay, rushing into the church,
despatched the wounded renegade outright. A frenzy
seized them ; they carried the castle by assault ; and
thus was rekindled the War of Independence. One
episode therein was that, in this same year of 1306, Sir
Christopher Seton, Bruce's brother-in-law, was hanged
by the English at Dumfries, on the Crystal Mount,
where his widow afterwards founded a chapel in honour
of the Holy Rood.
The town was burned by the English prior to 1448 ;
suffered devastation by them at other periods ; and, in
1469, obtained from the Crown all the houses, gardens,
revenues, and other property which had belonged to the
Grey Friars. It was burned again by the English in 1536,
and was then revenged by Lord Maxwell. That noble-
man, with a small body of retainers, made an incursion
into England, and reduced Penrith to ashes ; and either
he or some member of his family, mainly with materials
from the Greyfriars' monastery, strongly reconstructed
Dumfries Castle. Queen Mary, in October 1565, when
the town, was held by Murray and other disaffected nobles,
favourers of the Reformation, marched against it with
an army of 18,000 men, at whose approach the leaders
of the opposition retreated over the Border. The castle
was again taken and the town sacked, in 1570, by the
English imder Lord Scrope and the Earl of Essex. The
townsmen, in 1583, erected a bartizaned, two-storied
stronghold, called the New Wark, to serve both as a
fortress to resist invasion and as a retreat under dis-
comfiture ; and, either about the same time or at an
earlier period, they constructed likewise, between the
town and Lochar Moss, a rude fortification or extended
rampart, called the Warder's Dike. But all vestiges of
these works, of the castle, and of the monastery are now
extinct.
In 1617 James VI. spent two days at Dumfries in
royal state, and was sumptuously entertained at a pub-
lic banquet. The to^vn shared largely in the disasters
that overspread Scotland under Charles I., and still
more largely in those of the dark reign of Charles II.,
when, in November 1666, a fortnight before the battle
of RuUion Green, fifty mounted Covenanters and a larger
party of peasants on foot here seized Sir James Turner,
and, with him, a considerable sum of money. The
Cameronians, or those of the Covenanters who resisted
the settlement at the Revolution, were comparatively
numerous in the surrounding district ; and, on 20 Nov.
1706, about 200 of them rode into the town, issued
a manifesto against the impending union of Scotland and
England, and burned the articles of union at the cross,
but did not succeed in precipitating the town into any seri-
ous disaster. In October 1715 word was brought to the
magistrates that the Jacobite gentry of the neighbour-
hood had formed a design to surprise the town ; and, it
being the sacramental fast-day, and the provincial synod
being then in session, the clergy mustered their fencible
parishioners, so that 'a crowd of stout Whigs flocked in
from tlie surrounding districts and villages, with their
broad bonnets and grey hose, some of them mounted on
their plough-horses, others on foot.' That vcrv evening
they were joined by a strange ally, no other tnan Simon
Eraser, the infamous Lord Lovat, who, with five fol-
lowers, all armed to the teeth, rode up to the head inn,
395
DUMFRIES
e)i route from London to the North. Hill Burton de-
scribes the suspicions aroused by the presence of this
large, square-built, peculiar-looking man ; how, having
shown his credentials, he presently helped to bring
in the Jlarquis of Annandale, beset by the Jacobites
under Viscount Kenmure ; and how their courteous and
partly convivial meeting was interrupted by a rumour
of attack, a body of horse having ridden up close to
the town.* A Jiarty of the townspeople, during the
insurrection of 1745, cut off at Lockerbie a detach-
ment of the Highlanders' baggage ; and, in conse-
quence, drew upon Dumfries a severer treatment from
Prince Charles Eilward than was inflicted on any other
to^vn of its size. Prince Charles, on his retui'n from
England, let loose his mountaineers to live at free
quarters in Dumfries ; and he levied the excise of the
town, and demanded from its authorities a contribution
of £2000 and of 1000 pairs of shoes ; but, an alarm having
reached him that the Duke of Cumberland had mastered
the garrison left at Carlisle and was marching rapidly on
Dutafries, he hastily broke away northward, accepting for
the present £1100 for his required exaction, and taking
hostages for the payment of the remainder. The town
suffered loss to the amount of about £4000 by his visit,
besides the damage caused by the plundering of his troops;
but, in acknowledgment of its loyalty to the Crown, and
as part compensation for its loss, it afterwards got £2800
from the forfeited estate of Lord Elcho. Later events
have mainly been either commercial, political, or social ;
and, with the exception of a dire visitation of cholera (15
Sept. to 27 Nov. 1832), by which nearly 500 perished,
they have left no considei'able mark on its annals. It
may, however, be noticed that the Highland and Agri-
cultural Society has held its meeting here in 1830, 1837,
1845, 1860, 1870, and 1878. The town, on the whole
since 1746, has plenteously participated in the benign
effects of peace and enlightenment ; and, though mov-
ing more slowly than some other towns in the course of
aggrandisement, it has been excelled by none in the
graceftilness of its progress, and in the steadiness and
substantiality of its improvement.
The title Earl of Dumfries, in the peerage of Scot-
land, conferred in 1633 on the seventh Baron Crichton
of Sanquhar, passed in 1694 to an heiress who man-ied
the second son of the first Earl of Stair. Her eldest
son, William, who succeeded her in 1742 as fourth Earl
of Dimifries and his brother James in 1760 as fomth
Earl of Stair, died mtliout issue in 1768, when the
former title devolved on his nephew, Patrick Mac-
dowall of Feugh (1726-1803), whose daughter married
the eldest son of the first Marquis of Bute ; and the
title now is borne by her great-grandson, John (b. 1881),
son and heir of the present Marquis of Bute. On the
towii's roll of fame are the following eminent natives or
residents, the former distinguished by an asterisk : —
The Rev. "William Veitch, who was minister of Dumfries
during the conflict between Presbji;erianism and E])is-
copacy, and whose biography was Avritten by the Rev.
Dr M'Crie ; the Rev. Dr Henry Duncan of Ruthwell
(1774-1846), author of the Philosophy of the Seasons,
who started the Courier, and founded here the earliest
of all savings' banks, and a statue of whom is in front
of the Savings' Bank building ; * Dr Benjamin Bell
(1749-1806), the eminent surgeon; Sir Andrew Halliday
(1783-1839), a famous physician, who spent his latter
years and died in Dumfries ; * Sir John Richardson
(1787-1865), the surgeon and naturalist of Sir John
Franklin's overland Polar expedition ; *Sir James An-
derson (b. 1824), the telegraph manager; *Gen. William
M'Murdo, C.B. (b. 1819), the son-in-law and favourite
officer of Sir Charles Najiier, the hero of Scinde ; John
M'Diarmid (1790-1852), editor of the Scrap Book, author
of Sketches from Nature and a Life of Cowpcr, and for 35
years the talented conductor of the Dumfries Courier ;
Thomas Aird (1802-76), the well-known poet, and editor
of the Dumfriesshire Herald from 1835 to 1863 ; William
* It is noteworthy that tlie first book printed nt Dumfries was
Peter Rae's Ilhtonj of Vie Rebellion in Scotland, in Dumfries,
Galloway, etc. (1718).
396
DUMFRIES
M'Dowall (b. 1815), author of the Man of (he Woods and
of the Eistory of Dumfries, and editor of the Dumfries
Standard from 1846; * James Hannay (1827-73), author
of Eustace Conyers, Singleton Fontcnoy, and other works
of fiction; *Dr Robert Carruthers (1799-1878), of Inver-
ness, but long connected with Dumfries, the author of a
Life of Pope, the Highland Note-Book, the Encyclopccdia
of English Literature, etc., and of ten Dumfries Por-
traits, which appeared in the Dumfriesshire Monthly
Magazine, begun in 1821 ; William Bennet, editor of
the three volumes of the Dumfries Monthly Magazine,
begun in 1825 ; Allan Cunningham, John Mayne,
Robert Anderson, Joseph Train, Robert Malcolmson,
Dr Broivne, and Dr John Gibson, who contrilnited
largely to these two periodicals ; the Rev. William
Dunbar, editor of the Nifhsdale Minstrel, a volume of
original poetry published in 1815 ; William Paterson
(1658-1719), the founder of the Bank of England, and
the projector of the Darien Expedition ; Patrick IMiller
of Dalswinton (1731-1815), the distinguished inventor
and agriculturist; *Robert Thorburn, A.R.A. (b. 1818),
the famous miniature painter ; Kennedy, the landscape
painter; Dunbar and Currie, the sculptors; * James
Pagan (1811-70), journalist ; * Joseph Irving (b. 1830),
historian and annalist; Thomas Carlyle (1795-1881), a
Svriter of books;' *John Mayne (1759-1846), minor
poet and journalist ; and not a few besides.
The parish, containing also the villages of George-
town, Gasstown, and Locharbriggs, with part of the
village of Kelton, is bounded NAV by Holj^wood and
Kirkmahoe, NE by Tinwald, E by Torthorwald, S by
Caerlaverock, and AV by Troqueer and Terregles in Kirk-
cudbrightshire. Its greatest length, from N to S, is 6f
miles ; its greatest breadth is 3J miles ; and its area is
10,200 acres, of which 69^ are foreshore and 98^ water.
The NiTH winds 7 miles south-by-eastward along all
the boundary with Holj^wood and Kirkcudbrightshire,
and sluggish Lochaii Water 7i south-south-eastward
along that with Tinwald and Torthorwald. Near Loch-
thorn, 2h miles NNE of the town, is a little lake (1^ x f
furl.), which, in time of hard frost, is much frequented
by skaters and curlers. A mineral spring, called
Crichton's AVell, occurs in Lochar Moss ; another, a
strong chalybeate, on Fountainbleau farm. The pictur-
esque low height of Clumpton rises 2 miles NE of the
town ; and an undulating low eminence, as formerly
noticed, forms chief part of the site of the town, south-
ward of which another low ridge of hills runs nearly
parallel to the Nith, at about lialf a mile's distance,
into Caerlaverock ; and rises at Trohoughton to 312 feet.
The rest of the surface is nearly a dead level, sink-
ing to 40, and rarely exceeding 100, feet. The western
face of the ridge, overlooking the Nith, is gently sloping,
and highly embellished ; but the eastern breaks down
in abrupt declivities, presents a bold front and a com-
manding outline, and forms, about 1^ mile from the
town, two precipitous ledges, called the Maiden Bower
Craigs, one of them containing a remarkable cavity,
said to have been used by those mythic beings, the
Druids, as a sort of 'St Wilfrid's needle,' or ordeal of
chastity. A broad belt of Lochar Moss, along the
eastern border, continued all sheer morass down into
the i)resent century, but now is extensively reclaimed,
and partly clothed with verdure or Mith wood. Permian
sandstone is the prevailing rock, and has been largely
quarried. The soil, in the SW, is a pretty strong clay ;
in the flat lands by the Nith, is mostly clay incumbent
on gravel ; in the N and NK, is a light reddish sandy
earth resting on sandstone ; and in the E, is either native
moss, reclaimed moss, or humus. Nearly four-fifths of the
entire area are rctjularly or occasionally in tillage, some
350 acres are under wood, and nearly all the rest of the
land is capable of remunerative reclamation or culture.
An ancient castle of the Comyns stood ^ mile SSE of
the town, on a spot overlooking a beautiful bend of the
Nith, and still called Castledykes. A meadow near it
bears the name of Kingholm, and may have got that
name either by corruption of Comyn's holm or in honour
of Robert Uruce. Another meadow, by the riverside
DUMFRIES HOUSE
northward of the town, is called the Nunholm, from its
lying opposite the ancient Benedictine nunnery of
Lincluden. This parish is the seat of both a pres-
bytery and a synod, and it is divided ecclesiasti-
cally into the three parishes of St ilichael, Greyfriars,
and" St Mary, the value of the two first livings being
£436 and £336. Valuation, exclusive of burgh, (1882)
£20,877, 18s. Id. Pop. of entire parish (1801) 7288,
(1831) 11,606, (1861) 13,523, (1871) 14,841, (1881)
16,839.— (9/-fZ. Sur., shs. 10, 9, 1864-63.
The presbytery of Dumfries comprises the old par-
ishes of Caeriaverock, Colvend, Dumfries-St Michael,
Dunifries-Gre3rfriars, Dunscore, Holywood, Kirkbean,
Kirkgunzeon, Kirkmahoe, Kirkpatrick-Durham, Kirk-
patrick-Irongray, Lochrutton, Newabbey, Terregles,
Tinwald, Torthorwald, Troqueer, and Urr, and the
quoad sacra parishes of Dumfries-St Marv, Dalbeattie,
and MaxweUtown. Pop. (1871) 38,967, (1881) 41,099,
of whom 7072 were communicants of the Church of
Scotland in 1878. — The Free Church also has a presby-
tery of Dumfries, with 3 churches in Dumfries, 2 at
Dunscore, and 12 at Corsock, Dalbeattie, Dalton, Glen-
caple, Hightae, Irongray, Kirkbean, Kirkmahoe, Kirk-
patrick-Durham, Maxwelltown, Newabbey, and Ruth-
well, which 17 had together 3216 members in 1881. —
The tr. P. Synod likewise has a presbytery of Dumfries,
with 3 churches in Dumfries, 2 in Sanquhar, and 10
at Burnhead, Castle-Douglas, Dalbeattie, Dairy, Dun-
score, Lochmaben, Mainsriddle, Moniaive, Thomhill,
and Urr, which together had 2814 members in 1880.
The synod of Dumfries comprises the presbyteries
of Dumfries, Lochmaben, Langholm, Annan, and Pen-
pont. Pop. (1871) 94,023, (1881) 96,018, of whom
17,897 were communicants of the Church of Scotland
in 1878. — The Free Church also has a synod of Dum-
fries, comprising presbyteries of Dumfries, Lockerbie,
and Penpont, and superintending thirty-four congrega-
tions, which together had 7256 members in 1881.
See John M'Diarmid's Picture of Dumfries and. its
Environs (Edinb. 1832) ; William WDov;&\\'s History of
the Burgh of Dumfries ; with Notices of Nithsda.le,
Awiiandale, and the Western Border (Edinb. 1867 ; 2d
ed. 1873) ; and his MemoriaAs of St Miclw,el's, the Old
Parish Churchyard, of Dumfries (Edinb. 1876).
Dumfries House, a seat of the Marquis of Bute in
Old Cumnock parish, Ayrshire, near the left bank of
Lugar Water, 2 miles W of Cumnock town, and | mile
N of Dumfries House station on the Ayr and Cumnock
section of the Glasgow and South-Western, this being
loi miles E by S of Ayr. Built about 1757 by William
Dalrymple, fourth Earl of Dumfries, it has a drawing-
TDom htmg with very fine old tapestry, said to have been
presented by Louis XIV. to one of the former Earls,
and stands amid finely wooded grounds that contain the
ruins of Terringzean Castle, and extend into Auchinleck
parish, on the opposite bank of the Lugar, which here is
spanned by an elegant bridge. The ilarquis holds
113,734 acres in Ayrshire, valued at £25,263 per annum,
including £2506 for minerals. — Ord. Sur., sh. 14, 1863.
Dumfriesshire, a coast and Border county in the S of
Scotland. It is bounded N by Lanark, Peebles, and
Selkirk shires ; NE by Roxburghshire ; SE by Cumber-
land ; S by the Solway Firth ; SW by Kirkcudbright-
shire ; and XW by Ayrshire. Its length, from W to E,
varies between 21 and 46i miles ; its breadth, from N
to S, between 13 and 32 miles; and its area is 1103
square miles or 705,945| acres, of which 20,427 are
foreshore and 5301^ water. Its outline is irregularly
ellipsoidal, being indented to the depth of 13 miles
by the southern extremity of Lanarkshire, and to the
depth of of miles by Ettrick Head in Selkirkshire.
Its boundary line, over all the W, NW, N, and NE,
to the aggregate extent of 120 miles, is mainly moun-
tain watershed ; over most of the march witli Cum-
berland, to the aggregate extent of 11 miles, is variously
Liddel Water, Esk river, and Sark Water ; over all the S,
to the extent of 21 miles, is the Solway Firth ; along the
SW, to the extent of 15 miles, is the river Nith and Cluden
Water. The summits on or near the upland boundary line
DUMFRIESSHIRE
include Auchenchain (1271 feet) and Blackcraig (1961)
at the Kirkcudbrightshire border ; Blacklorg (2231),
M'Crierick's Cairn (1824), and Halfmerk Hill (1478), at
the Ayrshire border ; Mount Stuart (1567), Wanlock
Dod (1808), Lowther HUl (2377), Well Hill (1987),
Wedder Law (2185), and Queensberry (2285), at the
Lanarkshire border ; HartfeU (2651) and White Coomb
(2695), at the Peeblesshire border ; Herman Law (2014),
Andrewhinney (2220), Bodesbeck Law (2173), Capel Fell
(2223), Ettrick Pen (2269), Quickningair Hill (1601),
and Black Knowe (1481), at the Selkirkshire border ;
and Stock Hill (1561), Roan Fell (1862), and Watch
Hill (1642), at the Roxburghshire border.
All the northern part of the county is prevailingly
upland. Mountains or high hills, with similar altitudes
to those on the boundary line, and intersected with only
a small aggregate of glens or vales, occupy all the north-
western, the northern, and the north-eastern border to
a mean breadth of 7 or 8 miles ; and spurs or prolonga-
tions of them strike south-eastward, southward, and
south-westward, to lengths of from 2 or 3 to 7 or 8 miles,
sometimes shooting into summits nearly as high as those
on the borders, but generally sinking into low hills, and
separated from one another by broadening vales. These
uplands constitute a large and prominent portion of the
Southern Highlands of Scotland ; but they differ much,
in both segregation and contour, from the upland masses
of most of the Northern Highlands. Few or none of
the mountains have the ridgy elongations, the rugged,
craggy outlines, or the towering peaked summits so
common in Argj'll, Perth, Inverness, and Ross shires ;
but almost all of them, whether on the borders or in the
interior, lie adjoined in groups, rise from narrow bases
over rounded shoulders, and have summits variously
domical, conical, and tabular or flat. Three of the most
remarkable of the interior heights are Caimkinna (1813
feet) in Penpont, Langholm Hill (1161) in the vicinity
of Langholm, and Brunswark Hill (920) in the NE of
Hoddam, all three having forms of peculiar character,
quite in contrast to those prevailing in the Northern
Highlands. The region southward of the uplands breaks
into three great valleys or basins, traversed by the rivers
Nith, Annan, and Esk ; and is intersected, between the
Nith and the Annan, to the extent of about 7 miles
southward from the vicinity of Amisfield, by the range
of the Tinwald, Torthorwald, and Mouswald Hills, with
curved outlines, cultivated surfaces, and altitudes of
from 500 to 800 feet above sea-level, and commanding
gorgeous, extensive, diversified prospects. The basias
of the Annan and the Esk S of a line drawn from
Whinnyrig, past Ecclefechan, Craigshaws, Solway Bank,
and Brooinholm, to ;Moorbumhead, cease to be valleys,
or are flattened into plains, variegated only by occa-
sional rising-grounds or low hUls, either round-backed
or obtusely conical. The valley of ihe Nith also, for
10 miles before it touches the Solway, is in all respects
a plain, ^vith exception of a short range of low hills in
Dumfries and Caerlaverock parishes and a few unini-
portant isolated eminences ; and the E wing of it,
partly going flatly from it to the base of the Tinwald
HiUs, partly going southward, thence past the smaU
Dumfries and Caerlaverock range to the Solway Firth, is
the dead level of Lochar Moss.
The river Nith and one or two of its unimportant and
remote tributaries enter Dumfriesshire through openings
or gorges in its north-western boundaries, and a small
tributary of the Annan enters through a gorge in the
N ; but all other streams which anywhere traverse the
county rise within its own limits. The Nith, from the
point of entering it, and the Annan and the Esk, from
short distances below the source, draw toward them
nearly all the other streams, so as to form the county
into three great valleys or basins, but the Nith giving
the lower part of the right side of its basin to Kirkcud-
brightshire, and the Esk going entirely in its lower part
into England. The tliree rivers all pursue a south-
south-easterly course— the Nith in the W, the Annan in
the middle, and the Esk in the E; and, with the
exception of some small curvings, they flow parallel to
^ 397
DUMFRIESSHIRE
one another, at au average distance of about 12 miles,
imposing upon their own and their tributaries' basins
the names of respectivelj' Nithsdale, Annandale, and
Eskdale. The streams whicli run into them are very
numerous, j-et mostly of short course, of small volume,
and remarkable chiefly for the beauty or picturesqueness
of the ravines or the dells which they traverse. The
chief of those which enter the Nith are, from the W,
the Kello, the Euchan, the Scar, the Cairn, and the
Cluden ; from the E, the Crawick, the Minnick, the
Enterkin, the Carron, the Cample, and the Duncow.
The chief which enter the Annan are, from the "\V, the
Evan and the Kinnel ; from the E, the Moffat, the
Wamphray, the Dryfe, the Milk, and the Mein. The
chief which enter the Esk are, from the W, the Black
Esk and the Wauchope ; from the E, the Megget,
the Ewes, the Tanas, and the Liddel. Four rivulets,
each 10 miles or more in length, have an indepen-
dent course southward to the Solway — the Lochar
and the Cummertrees Pow in the space between the
Nith and the Annan ; the Kirtle and the Sark in the
space between the Annan and the Esk. Several of the
tributary streams, like the three main ones, give their
names to their own basins — the Jloffat, the Dryfe, and
the Ewes in particular giving to their basins the names
of Moffatdale, Dryfesdale, and Ewesdale. A gi'oup of
lakes, the largest of them Castle Loch (6x5^ furl.),
lies near Lochmaben ; and dark Loch Skene (6 x If
furl. ), remarkable for emitting the torrent of the ' Grey
I*Iare's Tail, ' lies on the N border at the source of Moffat
Water. Pure springs are almost everywhere abundant ;
chah'beate springs are near Moffat, Annan, and Ruth-
well ; and sulphureous at Moflat and Closeburn House.
The Geology. — The oldest rocks in Dumfriesshire are of
Silurian age, consisting mainly of greywackes, flagstones,
and shales, belonging to the upper and lower divisions
of that formation. A line drawn from the head of Ewes
"Water in Eskdale, south-westwards by Lockerbie toMous-
wald, marks the boundarj' between the two divisions,
the Lower Silurian rocks being met with to the N of
this limit. The members of both series have been much
folded ; but by means of the lithological characters of
the strata, and with the aid of certain fossiliferous bands
of shales yielding graptolites, it is possible to determine
the order of succession. In the neighbourhood of Moffat
the fossiliferous black shales of the lower division are
typically developed, where they have been divided into
several well-marked zones by means of the graptolites
which occur in them in profusion. They are admirably
displayed at Dobbs Lynn, near the head of Moffat-
dale, and in the streams on the S side of the Moffat
valley. The Silurian rocks, ■which now form the great
mass of high ground throughout the county, were ele-
vated so as to form a land barrier towards the close of
the Silui'ian period. In the hollows worn out of this
ancient tableland, the strata belonging to the Old Red
Sandstone, Carboniferous, and Permian periods were de-
posited. But even these newer palaeozoic formations have
been so denuded that only isolated fragments remain
of what once were more extensive deposits.
Along the county boundary in Uiipcr Nithsdale the
representatives of the Lower Old Red Sandstone are met
with, where they consist of sandstones and conglome-
rates, associated with contemporaneous volcanic rot^ks.
They form part of the great belt of Lower Old Red
strata stretching from the Braid Hills near Edinburgh
into Ayrshire. The Upper Old Red Sandstone, on the
other hand, forms a narrow fringe underlying the car-
boniferous rocks from the county boundary E of the Ewes
Water south-westwards by Langholm to Brunswark. At
the base they consist of conglomeratic sandstones, the
included pebbles having been derived from the waste of
the Silurian flagstones and shales. These are overlaid
by friable Red sandstones and marls, which pass con-
formably underneath the zone of volcanic materials
which always intervene between them and the overlying
Carboniferous strata. The zone of igneous rocks just
referred to is specially interesting, as it points to the
existence of volcanic action on the S side of the Silurian
398
DUMFRIESSHIRE
tableland at the beginning of the Carboniferous period.
The igneous rocks consist mainly of slaggy and amygda-
loidal porphyrites, which were spread over the ancient
sea bottom as regular lava flows. Brunswark Hill is
made up of this igneous material. Some of the volcanic
orifices from which the igneous materials were dis-
charged are still to be met M-ith along the watershed
between Liddesdale and Teviotdale in the adjacent
county of Roxburgh.
The carboniferous rocks are met with in three separate
areas: — (1.) in the district lying between Langholm and
Ruthwell ; (2.) at Closeburn near Thornhill; (3.) in the
neighbourhood of Sanquhar. The first of these areas is
the most extensive, measuring aliout 22 miles in length,
and varying in breadth from 2 to 7 miles. The strata
included in it belong to the Calciferous Sandstone series
which forms the lowest subdivision of the Carboniferous
formation. The following zones were made out in the
course of the geological survey of the district. They
are given in descending order : — (7. ) Canonbie coals ;
(6.) Marine Limestone series of Penton, Gilnockie, and
Ecclefechan ; (5.) Volcanic zone of fine tuff and porphy-
rite, including about 50 feet of fine shales ; (4.) Irvine
Burn and Woodcock air sandstones ; (3. ) Tarras Water-
foot Cementstone series ; (2.) White sandstones ; (1.)
Brunswark and Ward Law volcanic rocks.
The recent discovery which has proved so interesting
and important was met with in the fine shales of zone
(5) and partly in zone (3). Upwards of twenty new
species of ganoid fishes were obtained from these
beds near Langholm, and out of the sixteen genera
to which these species belong five are new to science.
Very few of the species are common to the carboniferous
rocks of the Lothians, which has an important bearing
on the history of that period. Along with the fishes
were found about twelve new species of decapod crus-
taceans and three new species of a new genus of Phyllo-
pods. Of special importance is the discovery of four
new species of scorpions. Hitherto the occurrence of
fossil scorpions in rocks of Carboniferous age has been
extremely rare. The specimens recently obtained are
admirably preserved, and from a minute examination of
them it is evident that they closely resemble their living
representatives. The remains of several new plants
were also found in the fine shales already referred to.
Within the Silurian area. Carboniferous rocks are met
with in the Thornhill and Sanquhar basins. These
deposits lie in ancient hollows worn out of the Silurian
tableland which date back as far as the Carboniferous
period. At Closeburn and Barjarg there are beds of
marine limestone associated with sandstones and shales
which probably belong to the Calciferous Sandstone
series. Again, at the south-eastern limit of the Sanquhar
coalfield there are small outliers of the Carl)onif'erous
Limestone series, consisting of sandstones, shales, and
thin fossiliferous limestones. The latter rapidly thin
out, and the true coal measures rest directly on, the
Silurian platform. From these facts it would appear
that in Upper Nithsdale the Silurian barrier did not
sink beneath the sea-level till the latter part of the
Carboniferous period, not in fact till the time of the
deposition of the coal measures. The Sanquhar coal-
field is about 9 miles in length, and from 2 to 4 miles
in breadth. It contains several valuable coal seams,
and from the general character of the strata it is pro-
bable that they are the southern prolongations of the
Ayrshire coal measures. Another fact deserves to be
mentioned here, which was established in the course of
the survey of the county. The Canonbie coal seams do
not belong to the true Coal Pleasures as has hitherto
been supposed, but are regularly intercalated with the
members of the Calciferous Sandstone series.
The strata next in order are of Permian age which
are invariably separated from the Carboniferous rocks
by a marked unconformity. Indeed so violent is the
unconformity that we find the Permian strata to the
E of Lochar Moss stealing across the edges of the Cal-
ciferous Sandstone beds till they rest directly on the
Silurian rocks.
DUMFRIESSHIRE
Permian strata occur in five separate areas — 1 at Moffat,
2 at LocliHiaben and Corncockle Moor, 3 between Annan
and the mouth of the Esk, 4 the Dumfries basin, 5 the
Thornhill basin. In addition to these areas there is a
small patch of contemporaneous igneous rocks overlying
the Sanr^uliar coallield, which is believed to be of the same
age. In the neighbourhood of Moffat the breccias are
evidently an ancient morainic deposit of glacial origin.
Several well-striated stones were found in them resemb-
ling the scratched stones in ordinarj' boulder clay. In
the red sandstones of Corncockle Moor reptilian foot-
prints have been detected, produced by reptiles mov-
ing in a S direction, which led to the witty remark of
Dean Buckland ' that even at that early date the migra-
tion from Scotland to England had commenced.' Be-
tween Annan and Canonbie the strata consist of red
sandstones, while in the Dumfries basin the red sand-
stones of Locharbriggs are overlaid by an alternation of
red sandstones and breccias. An interesting feature
connected with the Thornhill basin is the occurrence
of contemporaneous volcanic rocks at the base of the
series. They form a continuous ring I'ound the northern
half of the basin cropping out from underneath the
breccias and red sandstones. In the Sanquhar basin
also there are several 'necks' or volcanic vents filled
■with agglomerate, which in all likelihood mark the
sites from which lavas of Permian age were discharged.
It is interesting to note the proofs of the original ex-
tension of the Permian strata over areas from which they
have been completely removed by denudation. Some of
the Carboniferous strata in the Sanquhar coal-field have
been stained red by infiltration of iron oxide, and in the
S of the county the Calcifei'ous Sandstone beds overlying
the Canonbie coals have been so much reddened as to
resemble externally the Permian sandstones. Even on
Eskdalemuir the Silurian greywackes have been stained
in a similar manner. In these cases the older rocks
■were buried underneath strata of Permian age from
■R'hich the percolating water derived the iron oxide.
Within the limits of the county there are intrusive
igneous rocks of which the most conspicuous example is
the mass of granite on Spango AVater, about 5 miles N
of Sanquhar. This mass is about 3 miles long, and
upwards of 1 mile in breadth. There are also dykes or
veins of felstone and basalt. One example of the latter
deserves special notice. It has been traced from the
Leadhills south-eastwards by Moffat, across Eskdalemuir
by Langholm to the English border. In texture it varies
from a dolerite to tachylite, -which is the glassy form of
basalt.
Only a passing allusion can be made to the proofs of
glaciation which are so abundant throughout the county.
During the period of extreme glaciation the general trend
of the ice sheet was SE towards the Solway Firth and
the English border. The widespread covering of boulder
clay which is now found in the upland vallej's and on
the low grounds is the relic of this ancient glaciation.
But in the valleys draining the main masses of high
ground there are numerous moraines deposited by local
glaciers. Amongst the finest examples are those round
Loch Skene at the head of Motfatdale.
Economic Minerals. — Coal seams occur at Sanquhar
and Canonbie, and limestone at Closeburn, Barjarg,
Kelhead, and Harelaw Hill, Liddesdale. Veins of
silver and lead ore are met with at Wanlockhead, anti-
mony at Glendinning and Meggat Water. The building
stones in greatest demand are the white sandstones of
the Carboniferous formation, the Permian red sandstones
of Thornhill, Dumfries, Corncockle, and Annan ; while
in the neighbourhood of Moffat the coarse grits of
Silurian age are much used. (B. N. Peach, F.K.S.E.,
and J. Home, F.R.S.E., of the Geological Survey of
Scotland. )
The soil in the mountain districts is mainly moorish,
mostly unsuitable for tillage, and partly irreclaimable ;
but in places where it has a dry subsoil, is capable of
gradual transmutation into loam. The soil, in the low-
land districts, is generally of a light nature, incumbent
on either rock, gravel, or sand; in Nithsdale and Annan-
DUMFRIESSHIBE
dale, is mostly dry ; in Eskdale, is generally wzt ; in
some places, -vvliere it lies on a retentive subsoil, is cold,
and occasions rankness of vegetation ; in considerable
tracts of the outspread plain, is of a loamy character,
rich in vegetable mould ; on the gentle slopes of the
midland district, is an intermixture of loam with other
soils ; on the swells or knolls of the valleys, and even
of the bogs, is of a gravelly or sandy character ; on the
margins of streams, is alluvium, or what is here called
holm-land, generally poor and shallow in the upland
dells, but generally rich and deep in the lowland valleys.
Cla}', as a soil, seldom occurs, except as mixed with
other substances ; but, as a subsoil, is extensively found,
either white, blue, or red, under the greensward of
hills, and beneath soft bogs. Peat-moss exists in great
expanses both on the hills and in the vales ; and wherever
it so lies as to be amenable to drainage, is of such a
character as to be convertable into good soil. Sea-silt,
or the saline muddy deposit from the waters of the Sol-
way, spreads extensively out from the estuary of the
Lochar, and both forms a productive soil in itself, and
serves as an effective top-dressing for the adjacent peat-
moss. The percentage of cultivated area is 32 '5 ; 27,472
acres are under wood ; and little short of two-thirds of
the entire county is either pastoral or waste.
Arable farms range mostly between 100 and 150 acres,
yet vary from 60 to SOO ; and sheep-farms range from
300 to 3000 acres. Some farms, chiefly along the
mutual border of the upland and the lowland regions,
are both pastoral and arable, and are regarded as par-
ticularly convenient and remunerative ; and these
comprise about one-third of the total acreage under
rotation of crops. The cattle, for the dairy, are mostly
of the Ayrshire breed ; for the shambles or for exporta-
tion, are mostly of the Galloway breed. The sheep, on
the uplands, are either black-faced or Cheviots ; in the
lowlands are a mixe^l breed, resulting fi'om crosses of
the Cheviots with Leicesters, Southdowns, and Spanish
breeds. The draught horses are of the Clydesdale breed.
Pigs are raised chiefly for exportation of pork and bacon
into England ; and they have, for many years, been an
object of general attention among both farmers and
cotters. The value of the pork produced rose from
£500 in 1770 to £12,000 in 1794, to £60,000 in 1812,
and to £100,000 in 1867, since which last year it has
somewhat fallen off, there being only 10,286 pigs in the
county in 1881 against 15,088 in 1877, and 18,612 in
1866.
The commerce of the county is all conducted through
Dumfries and its sub-ports. Manufactures in hosiery and
tweeds have recently become important in Dumfries ; but
manufactures in other departments, either there or
throughout the county, are of comparatively small
amount. Hosiery employs many looms in Thornhill,
Lochmaben, and other townis and villages ; woollen
fabrics, of various kinds, are made at Sanquhar and
Moftat ; ginghams are manufactured at Sanquhar and
Annan ; muslins, at Kii'kconnel ; com'se linens, at
Langholm. Weaving, in difi'erent departments, em-
ploys many hands ; artificership, in all the ordinary
departments, emplo3-s many more ; and operations con-
nected with coal and lead-mining employ a few. The
energies of the county, as compared with those of other
counties, either in Scotland or in England, are not
small ; but, partly in consequence of dearth of coal,
partly for other reasons, they are mainly absorbed
in the pursuits and accessories of agricidture ; and
yet, since at least the commencement of the present
century, they have been so spent as to produce an
amount of prosperity scarcely, if at all, inferior to what
has been realised in other counties. The roads, the
fences, the dwelling-houses, the churches, the people's
dress, and the people's manners in Dumfriesshire, taken
as indices of progress and refinement, will bear compari-
son with those of any other district in Great Britain.
Tlic railways within the county are the Glasgow and
South-Western, down Nithsdale, and across the foot of
Annandale ; the Caledonian, down tlie entire length of
Annandale ; the Dumfries and Lockerbie, across the
399
DUMFRIESSHIRE
interior from Dnmfiies to Lockerbie ; the Solway Junc-
tion, in the S of Aunandale, from the Caledonian near
Kirtlebridge to the Solway Firth near Annan ; small
Sart of the Castle-Douglas and Dumfries, on the W bor-
er of Dumfries parish ; and branches of the Hawick and
Carlisle section of the North British to Langholm and
Gretna.
The quoad dvilia parishes, inclusive of two whi^'h
extend slightly into Lanarkshire, amount to 43. The
royal burghs are Dumfries, Annan, Lochmaben, and
Sanquhar. The liurghs of barony are ^lolfat, Lockerbie,
Langholm, Ecclefechan, Thornhill, and Moniaive. The
principal villages ai-e Springfield, Eaglesfield, Sunnybrae,
Bridekirk, Gasstown, Heathery Row, Hightae, Park, Dun-
reggan. Rowan Burn, Wanlockhead, Greenbrae, Glen-
caple, Torthorwald, Roucan, Collin, Penpont, Kirkcounel,
Kirtlebridge, "Waterbeck, Doniock, Cummcrtrees, Ruth-
well, Clarencefield, Mouswald, Closeburn, Holywood,
Kelton, Locharbriggs, Amisfield, Dalswinton,"\Vamphray,
Carronbridge, and Crawick ilill. The principal seats
are Drumlanrig Castle, Langholm Lodge, Castlemilk,
Kinmount, Kinharvey House, Glen Stewart, Tinwald
House, Comlongan Castle, Dumcrieft" House, Springkell,
Jardine Hall, "Rockhall, Westerhall, Raehills, Craw-
fordton, Amisfield House, Closeburn Hall, Dalswinton
House, Hoddam Castle, JMossknow, Halleaths, Mount
Annan, Craigdarroch, Blackwood House, JIurraythwaite,
Broomholm, Barjarg Tower, Speddoch, Dormont, Elshie-
shields, Canisalloch, Conlieath, Capenoch, Courance,
Glenae, Kirkmichael House, Rammerscales, Craigielands,
Corehead, Langshaw, Cove, Maxwelltown House, AVar-
manbie, Bonshaw, Northfield, Boreland, Broorarig,
Cowhill, Portrack, Gribton, Newtonairds, Milnhead,
Bumfoot, Lanrick, and Corehead. According to Mis-
cellaneous Statistics of the United Kingdom (1879),
676,971 acres, with a total gross estimated rental of
£595,512, were divided among 4177 landowners, one
holding 253,514 acres (rental £97,530), one 64,079
(£27,884), six together 82,759 (£50,690), twelve 81,881
(£59,150), t-wenty-six 76,576 (£50,977), twenty-eight
36,800 (£26,318), fifty-three 37,505 (£129,105), etc.
The covmty is governed (1882) by a lord-lieutenant,
a vice-lieutenant, 11 deputy-lieutenants, a sheriff, a
sheriff-substitute, and 97 magistrates. The principal
courts are held at Dumfries ; and sheriff small-debt
courts are held at Annan on the first Tuesdaj' of
January, ilaj-, and September ; at Langholm on the
third Saturday of January, May, and September ; at
Lockerbie on the first Thursday of April, August, and
December ; at Mofiat on the first Friday of April,
August, and December ; and at Thornhill on the second
Thursday of April, August, and December. The police
force, in 1881, besides 10 men for Dumfries and 2 for
Annan, comprised 35 men ; and the salary of the chief
constable was £400. The nimiber of persons tried at
the instance of the police, in 1880, besides those in
Dmnfries and Annan, was 785 ; convicted, 749 ; com-
mitted for trial, 38 ; not dealt with, 226. Tlie coiuity
prison is at Dumfries. The committals ibr crime, in the
yearly average of 1836-40, were 71 ; of 1841-45, 96 ;
of 1846-50, 209 ; of 1851-55, 141 ; of 1856-60, 99 ; of
1861-65, 50 ; of 1865-69, 29 ; of 1871-75, 50 ; and of
1876-80, 50. The annual value of real property, as-
sessed at £295,621 in 1815, Avas £319,751 in 1843,
£350,636 in 1861, and £572,945 in 1882, including
£75,286 for railways. The four royal burghs, together
with Kirkcudbright, send one member to parliament,
and the rest of tlie county sends another, and had a con-
stituency of 3469 in 1882. Pop. (1801) 54,597, (1811)
62,960, (1821) 70,878, (1831) 73,770,(1841) 72,830,
(1851) 78,123, (1861) 75,878, (1871) 74,808, (1881)
76,124, of whom 35,956 were males. Houses (1881)
15,656 inhabited, 835 vacant, 109 building.
The registration county takes in small parts of Moffat
and Kirkpatrick-Juxta parislies from Lauarksliire ; and
had, in liSl, a population of 76,151. All tlie parishes
are assessed for the poor. Dumfries parish has a poor-
house for itself ; and respectively 6 and 9 jjarishes form
the poor-law combiuatious of Kirkpatrick-Flenung and
400
DUMFRIESSHIRE
Upper Nithsdale. The number of registered poor, in
the year ending 14 May 1880, was 1688 ; of dependants
on these, 872 ; of casual poor, 1312 ; of dependants on
these, 1007. The receij)ts for the poor, in that year,
were £19,638, Is. 6jd ; and the expenditure was
£19,446, 8s. lOd. The number of pauper lunatics was
211, their cost being £3816, 18s. 8d. The percentage
of illegitimate births was 15-9 in 1872, 157 in 1877,
13-5 in 1S79, and 13-8 in 1880.
Dumfriesshire, in the times of Established Episcopacy,
formed part of the diocese of Glasgow, and was divided
into the deaneries of Nithsdale and Annandale. And
now, under Established Presbyterianism, it lies wholly
within the province of the sjmod of Dumfries, but does
not constitute all that proA-ince. Its parishes are dis-
tributed among the presbyteries of Dumfries, Annan,
Lochmaben, Langholm, and Penpont ; but those in
Dumfries presbytery are conjoined with 12 in Kirkcud-
brightshire, those in Langholm presbytery with Castle-
ton in Roxburghshire. In 1882 the places of worship
A^-ithin the county were 49 Established (14,373 com-
mimicants in 1878), 27 Free (5882 members in 1881),
22 U.P. (4381 members in 1880), 2 Independent, 4
Evangelical Union, 1 Baptist, 1 Methodist chapel, 3
Episcopal, and 2 Roman Catholic. In the year ending
30 Sept. 1880, the county had 115 schools (96 of them
public), which, with accommodation for 15,126 children,
had 12,424 on the rolls, and 9709 in average attendance.
The territory now forming Dumfriesshire, together
with large part of Galloway, belonged to the Caledonian
Selgovae ; passed, after the Roman demission, to the
kingdom of Cumbria or Strathclj'de ; was much over-
run by the Dalriadans, both from the N of Ireland and
from Kintyre ; rose, for a time, into a condition of rude
independence ; was subjugated by the Scots or Scoto-
Dalriadans after the union of the Scoto-Dalriadan and
the Pictavian kingdoms ; and was constituted a county or
placed under a slieriff by "William the Lyon. But,
during a considerable period, its sheriffs had direct
authority only within Nithsdale, and no more than
nominal authority in the other districts. Both Annan-
dale and Eskdale, from the time of David I. till that of
Robert Bruce, were under separate or independent
baronial jurisdiction ; held, in the former, by Robert
Bruce's ancestors, in the latter, b}'' various great laud-
owners. The coimty then consisted of the sheriffship of
Nithsdale, the stewartry of Annandale, and the regality
of Eskdale ; and was cut into three jurisdictions nearly
corresponding in their limits to the basins of the three
principal rivers. ^Bruce, after his accession to the
throne, framed measures which issued in a comprehen-
sive hereditary sheriffship ; and an Act, passed in the
time of George II. , adjusted the jurisdiction of the county
to the condition in which it now exists.
Great barons, about the time of David I., were pro-
prietors of most of the lands in the county. Donegal,
the ancestor of the Edgars, owned great part of Niths-
dale, and was called Dunegal of Stranith. The Maccus-
wells, ancestors of the Maxwells, held the lands of
Cacrlaverock ; the Comjms held the estates of Dal-
swinton and Duncow, and lands extending thence south-
ward to Castled3'kcs in the southern vicinity of Dum-
fries ; the Bruces, ancestors of the royal Bruce, held
Annandale, and resided chiefly at Lochmaben ; the
Kirkpatricks, the Johnstons, the Carlyles, and the
Carnocs hekl portions of Annandale as retainers of tho
Bruces ; and the Souliscs, the Avenels, the Rossedals,
and others held Eskdale. The Baliols also, though
not properl}"^ barons of the county itself, but only im-
pinging on it through succession to the lords of Gal-
loway, yet powerfully afi'ected its fortunes. Dumfries-
shire, during the wars between the Bruces and the
Baliols, was placed betwixt two fires ; or, to use a
different figure, it nursed at its breasts both of the
competitors for the crown ; and, from the nature of its
])Osition bearing aloft tlie Bruce in its right arm, and
both the Balioi and the Comyn in its left, it was pecu-
liarly exposed to suffering. The successful Bruce, after
his victory of Bannockburn, gave the Comyns' manor
DUMGLOW
of Dalswinton to "Walter Stewart, and their manor of
Duncow to Robert Boyd ; bestowed his own lordship of
Annandale, with the castle of Lochmaben, on Sir
Thomas Randolph, and created him Earl of Moray ; and
conferred on Sir James Douglas, in addition to the pift
of Douglasdale in Lanarkshire, the greater part of Esk-
dale, and other extensive possessions in Dumfriesshire.
The county suffered again, and was once more the chief
seat of strife during the conflicts between the Bruces
and the Baliols in the time of David II. Nor did it
sufter less in degree, while it suffered longer in dura-
tion, under the subsequent proceedings of the rebel-
lious Douglases. These haughty barons, 'whose coronet
so often counterpoised the crown,' grew so rapidly in at
once descent, acquisition, power, and ambition, as prac-
tically to become lords-paramount of both Dumfriesshire
and Kirkcudbrightshii-e. Their possessions, at their
attainder in 1455, reverted to the Crown, and were in
part bestowed on the Earl of March ; yet still, through
oM influence and through action of old retainers and
their descendants, continued to give the Douglases a
strong hold upon the county, such as enabled them to
embroil it in further troubles. The county was invaded,
in 1484, by the exiled Earl of Douglas and the Duke of
Albany ; and thence, during a century and a half, it
appears never to have enjoyed a few years of continuous
repose. Even so late as 1607, the martial followers of
Lord ilaxwell and the Earl of Morton were led out to
battle on its soil, in a way to threaten it with desola-
tion ; and all onward till the union of the Scottish and
the English crowns, marauding forces and invading
armies, at only brief intervals of time, overran it from
the southern border, and subjected it to pillage, iire,
and bloodshed. The county sat down in quietude under
James VI., and begun then to wear a dress of social
comeliness ; but again, during the reign of the Charleses,
it was agitated with broils and insurrections ; and, in
the rebellions of 1715 and 1745, especially in the latter,
it was the scene of numerous disasters. The Jacobites
were strong in it, and worked so vigorously in the cause
of the Chevalier and the Pretender as to draw destruc-
tion on their own families. The ilaxwells, in particular,
were utterly overthrown by the attainder of the Earl of
Nithsdale in 1715 ; and several other great families lost
all their possessions and their influence either then or in
1746. The Dukes of Buccleuch, partly through exten-
sion of their own proper territories, partly through
inheritance of those of the Dukes of Queensberry, are
now by far the largest and most influential lando\vners
of the county ; and the Marquis of Queensberry and
Hope-Johnstone of Annandale hold a high rank.
Caledonian cairns, camps, and hill-forts are numerous
in many of the upland districts, particularly on the
south-eastern hills ; remains of Caledonian stone circles
are in the parishes of Gretna, Eskdalemuir, Wamphray,
Moffat, and Holywood ; Roman stations, Roman camps,
or remains of them are at Brunswark, Castle O'er,
Raeburnfoot, Torwoodmoor, Trohoughton, Gallaberry,
Wardlaw Hill, and Caerlaverock ; Roman roads con-
nected the Roman stations with one another, and went
up Annandale, and westward thence to Nithsdale. A
remarkable antiquity, supposed by some writers to be
Anglo-Saxon, by others to be Danish, is in Ruthwell
churchj'ard ; old towers are at Amisfield, Lag, Achin-
cass, Robgill, and Lochwood ; and ancient castles, some
in high preservation, others utterly dilapidated, are at
Caerlaverock, Comlongan, Torthorwald, Closeburn, Mor-
ton, Sanquhar, Hoddam, Wauchope, and Langliolm.
Ancient monasteries were at Dumfries, Ca'Aonbie, Holy-
wood, and other places ; and a fine monastic ruin is
still at Lincluden. Vast quantities of ancient coins,
medals, weapons, and pieces of defensive armour have
been found. Numerous places figure prominently in Sir
Walter Scott's Guy Manneriiuj, llcdgauntlct, and Abbot.
See, besides works cited under Annandale, Caer-
laverock, Drumlanrig, Dumfries, Lochmaben, and
Moffat, two articles on Dumfriesshire in Trans. Highl.
and Ag. S'oc, 1869.
Dumglow. See Drumglow.
26
DUNAGOIL
Dumgree, an ancient parish in the upper part of
Annandale, Dumfriesshire, now divided between Kirk-
patrick-Juxta and Johnstone. The larger section of it
is within Kirkpatrick-Juxta^ and retains there, near the
right bank of Kinnel Water, some traces of the ancient
cliureh.
Dumphail. See Duniphail.
Dun, a parish of NE Forfarshire, containing, towards
its south-western corner. Bridge of Dun Junction on
the main line of the Caledonian, 4 miles E bySof Brechin,
15i ENE of Forfar, and 5f (3i by road) W by N of .Mon-
trose, under whicli it has a post and railway telegraph
office. Bounded N by Logiepert, NE by Montrose, SE
by Montrose Basin, S by the river South Esk, dividing
it from Iklaryton, SW by Brechin, and NW by Straca-
thro, the parish has an utmost length from E to W of
3^ miles, an utmost width from N to S of 2| miles,
and an area of 6030 acres, of which 1586§ are fore-
shore and 1374 vvater. Montrose Basin, over all its
connection with the parish, is alternately an ornament
and an eyesore — at high-tide a beautiful lagoon, but at
ebb a dismal expanse of black and slimy silt. The
South Esk, along all the southern border, is a fine
stream, abounding with salmon and sea-trout, and it is
crossed at Bridge of Dun by a handsome three-arched
bridge, built in 1787. A loch called Dun's Dish (4^ x
IJ furl.) lies at an altitude of 242 feet in the north-
western corner, and sends off a burn to the South Esk.
The land along the river and the basin is low, flat, and
protected by embankments, thence rises gently to the
centre of the parish, and thence to the western and
north-western borders is somewhat tabular, attaining
230 feet above sea-level near Balnillo, 202 near Dun
House, 207 near Glenskinno, 279 in Dun Wood, and
290 near Damside. The soil, on the low flat gi-ound,
is a fertile clayey loam ; on the ascent thence to the
centre is partly light and sandy, partly rich blackish
mould ; and be3'ond is first of good quality, next wet
and miry. About three-fourths of the entire area are in
tillage, and nearly one-sixth is under wood. In Dun,
in 1839, was born Alexander Hay Jaap (' H. A. Page'),
sub-editor of 6-'oot^ TFordsshice 1865 ; and John Erskine,
the Laird of Dun (1508-91), was born at the family seat
of Dun. He was a leader of the Reformation party, and
at his house in 1555 John Knox preached almost daily,
making many converts. David Erskine, Lord Dun
(1670-1755), an eminent, lawyer, and a stanch upholder
of the Episcopalian non-jurors, was also born at Dun
House, which, standing 7 furlongs NNE of Bridge of
Dun, is now the seat of Augustus Jn. Wm. Hy.
Kennedy-Erskine, Esq. (b. 1866 ; sue. 1870), owner of
1727 acres in the shire, valued at £3571 per annum.
The other chief mansion is Langley Park ; and the
property is mostly divided among four. Dun is in the
presbytery of Brechin and sjTiod of Angus and Mearns ;
the living is worth £245. The parish church, 9^ fur-
longs N by W of Bridge of Dim, was built about 1833,
and contains 300 sittings ; a public school, with accom-
modation for 140 children, had (ISSO) an ^average
attendance of 84, and a grant of £77, 2s. Valuation
(1882) £7846, 3s. 6d., phis £2024 for railway. Pop.
(1801) 680, (1831) 514, (1861) 552, (1871) 565, (1881)
5n.—0rd. Sur., sh. 57, 1868.
Dunach, an estate, with a mansion, in Kilmore parish,
Argyllshire, on the N shore and near the head of salt-
water Loch Feochan, 3i miles S of Oban. It was pur-
chased in 1871 for £16,500 by Neil Macleod Macdonald,
Esq. (b. 1836), who holds 463 acres in the shire, valued
at £409 per annum.
Dunachton, a barony in Alvie parish, Inverness-shire,
1;| mile SW of Kincraig station. It passed by marriage,
about 1500, from the M'Nivens to the Mackintoshes;
and had a castle, burned in 1689, and never rebuilt.
Dunagoil, a headland on the SW coast of the Isle of
Bute, li mile NW of Garroch Head. Rising to a lieight
of 119 feet, and offering to the sea a steep and rugged ac-
clivity, that terminates in a lofty, cavernous clitl, it pre-
sents also to the land side a precipitous ascent, difficult
of access, and scaleable chiefly by a narrow rugged ledge
401
DUNAIDH
at the southern extremity. Its flattish summit, retain-
ing vestiges of an ancient vitrified fort, supposed to be
Scandinavian, commands an extensive view along Kil-
brannan Sound and the Ficth of Clyde.
Dunaidh, a large, high, almost inaccessible rock in
Killarrow parish, Islay island, Argyllshire, near the
Mull of Islay. An old castle or fort on it, that seems to
have been a place of remarkable strength, is now an utter
ruin, witliout any characters of architectural interest. _
Dunain or Dunean, an estate, with a mansion, in
Inverness parish, Inverness-shire, 3 miles SW of Inver-
ness town. It anciently had a baronial fortalice ; and
to the N rises Dunain Hill (940 feet).
Dun Alastair or Mount Alexander, a fine modern
Scottisli P>aronial mansion in Fortingall parish, Perth-
shire, on the left bank of the Tummcl, 3 miles E of
Kinloch Rannoch, and 17 W of Pitlochry. Its prede-
cessor was the seat of the Struan Robertsons, and it owes
much of its ornamental planting to the Jacobite poet-
chieftain of Clan Donnachie, Alexander Robertson (1670-
1749), the prototype of Scott's ' Baron of Bradwardine.'
The present house was built by Gen. Sir John Mac-
donald, K.C.B. (1788-1866). There is a post and tele-
graph office of Dun Alastair. See Dalchosnie.
Dunamarle. See Duximarle.
Dunan, a bold promontory (100 feet) on the Atlantic
coast of Lochbroom parish, Ross-shire, on the northern
side of the entrance to Loch Broom, 10^ miles NW of
Ullapool.
Dunan- Aula, a tumulus in Craiguish parish, Argyll-
shire, in the valley of Barbreck. It is said to have
been formed over the grave of a Danish prince of the
name of Olaf or Olaus, who led an invading force into
sanguinary battle with the natives on gi'ound in its
vicinity ; and J mile distant are a nimiber of rude monu-
ments erected in memory of the warriors who fell in the
battle.
Dunans, an estate, with a mansion, in Kilmodan
parish, A rijyllshire, near the head of Glendaruel, 4 miles
NXE of Glendaruel House, and 23 NNW of Rothesay.
Dunaskin, a post office, with money order, savings'
bank, and telegraph departments, in Dalmellington
parish, AjTshire, near Waterside station.
Dunaverty, a quondam castle in Southend parish,
Argvllsliire, on a small bay of its own name, 5 miles E
by N of the Mull of KintjTC, and lOJ SSW of Campbel-
town. Crowning a steep pyramidal peninsula (95 feet),
with clifi' descending sheer to the sea, and defended on
the land side by a double or triple rampart and a fosse,
it appears, both from its site and from its structure, to
have been a place of uncommon strength, and com-
manded the approach to Scotland at the narrowest part
of sea between Scotland and Ireland. An early strong-
hold of the Lords of the Isles, said to have given shelter
to Robert Bruce at the ebb of his fortunes, it was cap-
tured and garrisoned by James IV. in 1493, and in the
following year recaptured by Sir John of Isla, who hanged
the governor from the wall, in the sight of the King
and the fleet. In 1647 it capitulated to General David
Leslie, who put every mother's son of its garrison to the
sword, instigated thereto by Mr John Nave, his excel-
lent chaplain, who ' never ceased to tempt him to that
bloodshed, yea, and threatened him with the curses
befell Saul for sparing the Amalekites.' The castle has
been so completely demolished that scarcely a vestige of
it now exists.
Dunavourd. See Donavourd.
Dunbar (Gael, dun-hai-r, 'fort on the point'), a town
and a parish on the north-eastern coast of Haddington-
shire. A royal and parliamentary burgh, seaport, and
.seat of considerable traffic, the towTi by road is 11 miles
ENE of Haddington, and 11| ESE of North Berwick,
wliilst by the North British railway it is 29;^ E of Edin-
burgh, and 28J NW of Berwick-upon-Tweed. It
.stands, Carlyle says, 'high and windy, looking down over
its herring-boats, over its grim old Castle now much
honey-combed, — on one of those projecting rock-pro-
montories with which that shore is niched and vandyked,
as far as the eye can reach. A beautiful sea ; good land
402
DUNBAR
too, now that the plougher understands his trade ; a
grim niched barrier of whinstone sheltering it from the
chafings and tumblings of the big blue German Ocean.
Seaward St Abb's Head, of whinstone, bounds j'our
horizon to the E, not very far off; W, clo.se by, is the deep
bay and fishy little village of Belhaven ; the gloomy Bass
and other rock-islets, and farther the hills of Fife, and
foreshadows of the Highlands, are visible as you look
seaward. From the bottom of Belhaven Bay to that of
the next sea-bight St Abb's-ward, the town and its
environs form a peninsula. . . . Landward, as you
look from the town of Dunbar, there rises, some short
mile off, a dusky continent of barren heath hills, the
Lammermuir, where only mountain sheep can be at
home.' To which need only be added that the town
itself chiefly consists of a spacious High Street and two
smaller parallel streets.
At the foot or N end of the High Street stands Dunbar
House, within the old park of the castle, exhibiting to
the street a large couchant sY»hinx with extended wings,
and to the sea a handsome facade with central circular
portico. Built by the Messrs Fall, and thereafter a
mansion of the Earl of Lauderdale, it was purchased in
1859 by Government, and converted into a barrack.
The park around it, which serves as the parade-ground
of the Haddingtonshire militia, contained, till its
levelling in 1871-72, two large artificial mounds, sup-
posed to be of prehistoric origin. The castle, founded
at an early period of the Christian era, but many times
reconstructed in the course of wellnigh a thousand
years, bore for a long time prior to the invention of
gunpowder the reputation of impregnability, and was
one of the grandest fortresses of the Border counties,
exerting a powerful influence on the national history
down to its demolition in 1568. Its ruins, already
grievously dilapidated, were still further reduced by ex-
cavations for the Victoria Harbour ; but Grose has left
us two views, and Miller a full description, of them
in their more perfect condition. Of Miller's description
the follo-ning is a summary : — The castle is founded
on a reef of trap rocks, which project into the sea,
and, in many places, rise like bastions thrown up
by nature to guard these stern remains of feudal
grandeur against the force of the waves. The body
of the buildings measures 165 feet from E to W,
and in places 207 from N to S. The South Battery —
by Grose supposed to have been the citadel or keep, and
now converted into a fever hospital — is situated on a
detached rock, which, 72 feet high, and accessible only
on one side, is connected with the main part of the castle
by a passage of masonry 69 feet long. Tlie citadel mea-
sures 54 feet by 60 within the walls, and in shape is
octagonal. Five of the gun-ports, or so-called 'aiTow-
holes,' remain, and measure 4 feet at the mouth, but
only 16 inches at the inner extremity. The buildings are
arched, and extend 8 feet from the outer walls, and look
into an open quadrangle, whence they derive their light.
About the middle of the fortress, part of a wall remains,
through which there is a doorway, surmounted with
armorial bearings, and leading seemingly to the prin-
cipal apartments. In the centre are tlie arms of George,
eleventh Earl of Dunbar, who succeeded his father in
1369 ; and who, besides the earldom of Dunbar and
March, inherited from his heroic mother the lordship of
Annandale and the Isle of Man. The towers had com-
munication with the sea, and dip low in many places.
NE from the front of the castle is a large natural cavern
of black stone, supposed to have formed part of the
dimgeon, which, Pennant observes, ' the assistance of a
little art had rendered a secure but infernal prison.'
But as it has a comnumication with a rockj' inlet from
the sea on the W, it is more likely that it is the dark
postern through which Sir Alexander Ramsay and his
brave followers entered with a supply of j.iovisions to
the besieged in 1339. It was a i^lace also well suited for
securing the boats belonging to the garrison. The castle
is built of a red stone like that of the neighbouring
quarries. Part of the foundation of a fort, which was
begun in 1559 for the purpose of accommodating a
DUNBAR
French garrison, may be traced, extending 136 feet in
front of the castle. This buikling was, however, inter-
rupted in its progress, antl demolished. In the NW
part of the ruins is an apartment about 12 feet square,
and nearly inaccessible, which tradition designates Queen
Mary's Eoom.
The public buildings include the town-hall, an old
edifice ; the assembly-rooms (1822), substantial and com-
modious,but badly situated ; the prison, legalised in 1864
for prisoners whose term does not exceed 10 days ; the corn
exchange (1855); St Catherine's Hall (1872), with ball
or concert room, and Masonic, Free Gardeners', and Good
Templars' lodges ; the custom-house ; and the railway
station, which, standing on the south-eastern outskirts
of the town, occupies part of the site of Oliver Crom-
Avell's camp, and is a large Tudor structure, with accom-
modations suitable to its position nearly midway between
Berwick and Edinburgh. Not far from the station, at
the S end of the High Street, stands the parish church,
on a spot 65 feet above sea-level — the site of a cruci-
form collegiate church, which, founded in 1342 and
1392 by Earls Patrick and George for a dean, a vice-
dean, and 8 prebendaries, measured 123 feet from E to
AV, and 83 feet across the transept. Built in 1819-21,
from designs by Gillespie Graham, at a cost of £8000,
the present church is an elegant structure in the
Gothic style, with a pinnacled square tower 108 feet
high, that commands an extensive view, and serves as a
landmark to mariners. The interior, seated for 1800
worshippers, is adorned ^^■ith two stained-glass windows,
erected in 1865 and 1871 ; whilst immediately behind
the pulpit is a superb monument, erected to the memory
of George Home, Earl of Dunbar, third son of Alexander
Home of Mandei'ston. This nobleman was in great
favour with James VI., and, holding successively the
offices of high-treasurer of Scotland and chancellor of
the exchequer in England, was raised to the peerage in
1605. It was on him that the 'British Solomon'
chiefly depended for the restoration of prelacy in Scot-
land ; and, at the parliament held at Perth in 1606, he
had the skill to carr}' through the act for the restoration
of the estate of bishops. He died at "Whitehall, 29
Jan. 1611, 'not,' says Calderwood, 'without suspicions
of poison.' ' His body being embalmed, and put into a
coflin of lead, was sent down to Scotland, and with great
solemnity interred in the collegiate church of Dunbar,
where his executors erected a very noble and magnifi-
cent monument of various coloured marble, with a statue
as large as life.' The monument is 12 feet broad at the
base, and 26 feet high. The Earl is represented, kneel-
ing on a cushion, in the attitude of prayer, ^\ith a Bible
open before him. He is clad in armour, which is seen
under his knight's robes, and on his left arm is the
badge of the Order of the Garter. Two knights in armour
stand on each side as supporters. Above them are two
female figures, Justice and Wisdom, betwixt whom, and
immediately above the cupola. Fame sounds her trum-
pet ; while, on the opposite side. Peace, with her olive
branch, sheds a laurel wreath on his lordship. Imme-
diately beneath the monument is the vault, wherein the
body is deposited in a leaden coffin. Other places of
worship are a Free church (1844), 2 U.P. churches, with
respectively 700 and 500 sittings, a Wesleyan Methodist
chapel, St Anne's Episcopal church, of iron (1876 ; 170
sittings), and the Roman^Catholic church of Our Lady of
the Waves (1877 ; made a separate mission in 1881).
The Burgh public school, the Lamer public school, and
a Roman Catholic school, with respective accommodation
for 289, 325, and 125 children, had (1880) an average
attendance of 159, 185, and 32, and grants of £134, 10s.,
£140, 15s., and £27, 12s.
The town has a head post office, with money order,
savings' bank, insurance, and telegraph departments,
branches of the Bank of Scotland, the British Linen Co. ,
and t)ie Commercial Bank, 20 insurance agencies, 9 hotels
and inns, a British workman public-house, a gas com-
pany, a cemetery compan}', a lifeboat, bowling and golf
clubs, masonic, foresters', and Good Templars' lodges,
a clothing society, a total abstinence society, etc. A
DUNBAR
weekly corn market is held on Tuesday, and fairs are
held on the first Tuesday of February (hiring) and on
26 May and 22 Nov. if a Tuesday, otherwise on the
Tuesday after. Malting, brewing, fish-curing, boat-
building, brickmaking, rope-spinning, iron-founding, and
the manufacture of agricultural implements, sailcloth,
and artificial manure are carried on. A printing-press
was erected in 1795, the earliest in the county ; and from
it was issued the first Scotch cheap periodical miscellany.
Trade has greatly fluctuated, both in quantity and in
kind. The port had long a custom-house of its own,
with jurisdiction from Gullane Point to the bounds of
Berwick, but is now a sub-port of Leith. A whale
fishery company was established in 1752, but, having
little or no success, was dissolved in 1804. In 1830 six
vessels were engaged in timber and grain trade with the
Baltic, and 39 in various coasting trade ; and in 1839
the vessels belonging to the port were 30 of 1495 tons,
in 1851 only 11 of 658 tons, this falling-ofi'of the shipping
trade being mainly ascribed to the opening of the North
British railAvay. The small Old Harbour, commenced
with a grant of £300 from Cromwell, in 1820 received
the addition of a graving-dock, which, proving, how-
ever, useless, was long ago filled up. The New or Vic-
toria Harbour, formed in 1844 at a cost of £15,762 by
the burgh and the Fishery Board, and repaired in 1880
at a further cost of £2181, covers 5 acres, and is an im-
portant haven of refuge for vessels between Leith Roads
and the English Tyne. It has a light, visible for 16 miles.
Created a royal burgh by David II. (1329-71), Dunbar
is now governed by a provost, 3 bailies, a treasurer, and
7 councillors. It partly
adopted the General Police
and Improvement Act of
Scotland prior to 1871 ;
and, with Haddington,
North Berwick, Lauder,
and Jedburgh, it returns
a member to parliament,
the parliamentary consti-
tuency numbering 464 in
1882, when the annual
value of real property
within the burgh amounted
to £13,887, Is., whilst the
corporation revenue for
1881 was £884. Pop. (1841) 3013, (1851) 3038, (1861)
3517, (1871) 3422, (1881) 3651. Houses (1881) 943 in-
habited, 104 vacant, 3 building.
Dunbar is a place of hoar antiquity. At it in 678 —
the year of his expulsion from his see — the gi'cat St
AVilfrid, Bishop of York, was imprisoned by Ecgfrid ;
and in 849 it is said to have been burned by Kenneth
mac Alpin. In 1072 Gospatric, ex-earl of the Northum-
brians, and kinsman to JMalcolm Ceannmor, obtained
from that king Dunbar with the adjacent territory ; and
the town's history for 360 years centres mainly around
the sea-built castle of his descendants, the Earls of
Dunbar and March. Patrick, filth Earl of Dunbar, who
in 1184 wedded a natural daughter of William the Lyon,
was justiciary of Lothian and keeper of Berwick ; and
during his tenure of these ofliccs, in 1214, Henry III.
invaded Scotland with a powerful army, and, having
taken the towm and castle of Berwick, next laid siege to
the fortress of Dunbar, but finding it impregnable, de-
vastated the country up to the walls of Haddington. A
marvellous story is told of Patrick, seventh Earl, who,
during the troublous minority of Alexander III., was
one of the chiefs of the English faction. Bower, who
was born at Haddington 100 years after, relates that, on 11
March 1286, the niglit preceding King Alexander's death,
True Thomas of Ercildoun or Eaklstox, arriving at
the castle of Dunbar, was jestingly asked by the Earl if
the morrow would bring any noteworthy event. Where-
to the Rhymour made answer mystically : ' Alas for to-
morrow, a daj' of calamity and misery ! Before the
twelfth hour shall be heard a blast so vehement as
shall exceed those of every former period, — a blast that
shall strike the nations with amazement, — shall humble
doa
Seal of Dunbar.
DUNBAR
wliat is proiul, and wliat is fierce shall level with the
grouiul ! The sorest wind and tempest that ever was
heard of in Scotland ! ' Next day, the Earl and his
companions having watched till the ninth honr without
observing any unusual appearance in the elements, began
to doubt the powers of the seer, and, ordering him into
their presence, upbraided him as an impostor, whereto
he replied that noon was not yet past. And scarce
had the Earl sat down to the board, scarce had the shadow
of the dial lallen upon the hour of noon, when a mes-
senger rode furiously up, who, being questioned, cried :
' Tidings I bring, but of a lamentable kind, to be
deplorexl by the whole realm of Scotland ! Alas, our
renowned King has ended his fair life at Kinghorn !'
'This,' said True Thomas, 'this is the scatheful wind
and dreadful tempest which shall blow such calamity
and trouble to the whole state of the whole realm of
Scotland!'
Patrick, eighth Earl of Dunbar — surnftmed Black
Beard — succeeded in 1289, and in the same year appeared
at the parliament of Brigham as Comes de Marehia (Earl
of March or the JNIerse), being tlie first of his line so de-
signated. He was one of the ten competitors for the
crown of Scotland (1291) ; and when, in 1296, Edward
I. with a powerful army entered Scotland, the Earl of
Dunbar took part against his country. His Countess,
however, more patriotic than he, delivered the castle
over to the leaders of the Scottish army. Edward de-
spatched the Earl of Warrenne with 12,000 men to the
siege ; whilst the Scots, sensible of the importance of
this fortress, whose capture would lay their country
open to the enemy, hastened with their main army of
40,000 men, under the Earls of Buchan, Lennox, and
Mar, to its relief. Warrenne, undaunted by the superior
numbers of the Scots, left part of his army to blockade
the castle, and with the rest advanced to meet the
foe. The English had to descend into a valley before
they could reach the Scots ; and as they descended, the
Scots, observing some confusion in their ranks, set up a
shout of exultation, and, causing their horns to be
sounded, rushed down from their position of advantage.
But when Warrenne emerged from the glen, and ad-
vanced undismayed against their formidable front, the
undisciplined troops, after a brief resistance, fled, and
were chased with great slaughter as far as Selkirk Forest.
Edward, next day, with the main body of the English
army, came up to Dunbar, and compelled the garrison to
capitulate. So, at least, runs the story, but Dr Hill
Burton observes, that ' evidently there was not a great
battle, \vith organised troops and known commanders
pitted against each other' {Hist. Scot., ii. 170, ed. 1876).
According to Blind Harry, when Wallace first undertook
to deliver his country, the Earl of Dunbar refused to
attend a meeting of the Estates at Perth. Thereupon
Wallace encountered Patrick in a field near Innerwick,
where the Earl had assembled 900 of his vassals, and
with half that number compelled the traitor, after a
terrible conflict, to retreat to Cockburnspath, himself
falling back on Dunbar. Patrick now went to Nor-
thumberland to crave the aid of the Bishop of Durham; but
his ostensible reason, the Minstrel tells us, was 'to bring
the Bruce free till his land.' Vessels were immediately
sent from the Northumbrian Tyne to blockade Dunbar,
and cut off supplies, while the Earl, with 20,000 men,
hastened to retake his fortress. In the interim Wallace
had repaired to the W in quest of succour, and, return-
ing by Yester, was joined by Hay and a chosen body of
cavalry. With 5000 men he marched to the support of
Seton, while the Bishop of Durham, who had remained
at Norham with Bmce, came to the assistance of Dun-
bar, and threw himself into an ambuscade near Spott-
moor. By this unexpected movement Wallace was
completely hemmed in, when Seton fortunately came to
his relief. The two armies closed in mortal strife. The
Scots puslied on so furiously against the Southrons, that
they were just about to fly, but Patrick was
' Sa cruel of intent,
Tl)at all his host tuk of him hardiment;
Throuch his awue hand he put mony to paio.'
404
DUNBAR
The desperate valour of the Wallaces, the Ramsaj's, and
the Grahams was of little avail against the superior
force of the English ; so that when the ambuscade of
Bishop Beck appeared, they were on the point of retir-
ing. Dunbar singled out Wallace amidst the throng,
and wounded him ; but the hero, returning the blow
with sevenfold vengeance, clove down Maitland, who
had thrown himself between. AVallace's horse was killed
beneath him, and he was now on foot dealing destruction
to his enemies, when
' Erie Patrick than, that had gret craft in war,
With spears ordand guid Wallace doun to bear.'
But 500 resolute warriors rescued their champion, and
the war-worn armies were glad to retire. The same
night Wallace traversed Lammermuir in quest of the
retreating host, while Bishop Beck, Earl Patrick, and
Bruce fled to Norham. On his return, the champion,
still mindful of the odium attached to his name by the
Earl of Dunbar, —
' Passit, with monj' awfull men,
On Patrickis land, and waistit wonder fast,
Tnk out guids, and places doun thai cast ;
His steads, sevin, that Mete Hamys was call'd,
Wallace gert break the burly biggings bauld,
Baith in the Merse, and als in Lothiane,
Except Dunbar, standaud he Icavit nane.'
In 1314 Edward II. of England, after seeing his army
annihilated at Bannockburu, fled with a body of horse
towards Berwick ; but Sir James Douglas, with 80
chosen horsemen, so pressed on the royal fugitive, that
he was glad to shelter himself in the castle of Dunbar.
Here he was received by Patrick, ninth Earl, 'full
gently ; ' and hence, in a fishing-boat, he coasted
along the shore till he reached the towers of Bam-
brough. After this, the Earl of Dunbar made peace
with his cousin. King Robert, and was present at
Ayr in May 1315, when the succession to the Crown of
Scotland was settled on Bruce's brother. But after
the defeat at Halidon Hill (1333), Edward at Berwick
once more received the fealty of the Earl of Dunbar with
several others of the nobility ; and the castle of Dunbar,
which had been dismantled and razed to the gi'ound on
tlie approach of the English, was now rebuilt at the
Earl's expense, for the purpose of maintaining an
English garrison.
In 1339 the castle was again in the sole possession of
its lord, and at the service of the Crown of Scotland ;
and then the Earls of Salisbury and Arundel advanced
at the head of a large English host to take it. The
Earl of Dunbar was absent in the North ; so that the
defence of his stronghold devolved upon his Countess, a
lady who, from her swarthy complexion, was called
Black Agnes, and who was daughter to the great Thomas
Randolph, Earl of Moray. During the siege, Agnes
performed all the duties of a bold and vigilant com-
mander. Wlien the battering engines of the English
hurled stones or leaden balls against the battlements, in
scorn she would bid a maid wipe off with a clean white
handkerchief the marks of the stroke ; and when the
Earl of Salisbury, with vast labour, brought his sow
close to the walls, the Countess cried : —
• Beware, llontagow.
For farrow shall thy sow ! '
Whereupon a large fragment of rock was hurled from
the battlements, and crushed the sow to pieces, with all
the poor little pigs — as Major calls them — who were
lurking beneath it. The following is Wyntoun's rhym-
ing narrative of this most memorable siege : —
' Schyre William Montague, that sua
Haii tane the siege, iiriiy gret nia
A mekil and richt stalwart engine,
And up smertly gcrt dress it ; syne
They warpit at the wall great staiics
Baith hard and heavy for the nanys.
But that nane nicrrying to them made.
And alsua wlien tliey castyne had,
With a towel, a damiscUe
Arrayed joUily and well,
Wippit the wall, that they micht see
To gere them mair annoyed be ;
DUNBAR
DUNBAR
There at the sieg-e well lanj they lay,
But there little vantage got they ;
For when they bykkyne walj, or assail,
Thej- tint the maist of their travaile.
And as they bykeryd there a' day,
Of a great shot I shall you say.
For that they had of it ferly,
It here to you rehearse will I.
William of Spens percit a Blasowne,
And thro' three faulds of Awbyrchowne,
And the Actowne through the third ply
And the arrow in the bodie,
While of that d\-nt there dead he lay ;
And then the Montagu gan say ;
" This is ane of my Lady's pinnis,
Her amouris thus, till my heart rinnis."
While that the siege was there on this wise
Men sayis their fell sair juperdyis.
For Lawence of Prestoun, that then
Haldin ane of the wichtest men,
That was in all Scotland that tide,
A rout of Inglismen saw ride.
That seemed gude men and worthy,
And were arrayed right richly ;
He, with als few folk, as they were.
On them assembled he there ;
But at the assembling, he was there
Xnta the mouth stricken with a spear,
liVTiile it up in the harnys ran ;
rill a dike he withdrew him than.
And died ; for nae mair live he might.
His men his death perceived noucht ;
And with their faes faucht stoutly,
While they them vanquish'd utterlj-.
Thus was this guid man brought tiU end.
That was richt greatly to commend.
Of ^et wirschipe and gret bownte
His saul be aye in saftie.
Sir WiUiam als of Galstown
Of Keith, that was of gude renown.
Met Richard Talbot by the way
And set him to sa hard assay,
That to a kirk he gert him gae,
And close there defence to ma ;
But he assailed there sae fast.
That him behov'd treat at the last.
And twa thousand pound to paj'.
And left hostage and went his way.
The Montagu was yet lyand.
Sieging Dvmbare with stalwart hand
And twa gallies of Genoa had he,
For till assiege it by the sea.
And as he thus assiegend lay.
He was set intil hard assay ;
For he had purchased him covyn
Of ane of them, that were therein,
That he should leave open the yete.
And certain term till ham then set
To come ; but they therein halily
Were wamit of it pririly.
He came, and the yete open fand.
And wald have gane in foot steppand.
But John of Cowpland, that was then
But a right poor simple man.
Shut him off back, and in is gane.
The portcullis came down on ane;
And spared Montagu, thereout
They cryed with a sturdy shout
"A Montagu for ever mair !"
Then with the folk that he had there
He turned to his Herberj*.
And let him japji; fullyly.
SjTie Alexander, the Ramsay,
That trowed and thought, that they
That were assieged in Dunbar,
At great distress or mischief were ;
That in an evening frae the Bass,
AVith a few folk, that with him was,
Toward Dunbar, intil a boat.
He held all pri%il}' his gate ;
And by the gallies all slyly
He gat with his company ;
The lady and all that were there
Of his coming well comfort were,
He issued in the morning in hy,
And with the wachis sturdily.
Made ane apart and stout melle.
And but tynscl entered he.
While jiontagu was there lyand.
The King Edward of England
Purchased him help and alya\vn3.
For he wald amowe were in France;
And for the Montagu he sends ;
For he cowth nae thing till end
Forowtyn him, for that time he
Was maist of his counsel privie
When he had heard the king's biddings
He removed, but mair dwelling.
When he, I trow, had Ij'ing there
A quarter of a year and mair.
Of this assiege in their hethj-ng
The English oysid to make karping
" I vow to God, she makes gret stere
The Scottish wenche ploddere.
Come I aire, come I late,
I fand Annot at the yate." '
Amongst the nobles who fell in the field of Durham,
in 1346, was Thomas, Earl of Moray, brother to the
heroic Countess of Dunbar. As he had no male issue,
Agnes inherited his vast estates ; and her husband
assumed the additional title of Earl of Moray. Besides
the earldom of Moray, the Earl of Dunbar and his
Countess obtained the Isle of JIan, the lordship of
Annandale, the baronies of ilorton and Tibbers in
Nithsdale, of Morthingtoun and Longformacus, and the
manor of Dunse in Berwickshire, with Mochrum in
Galloway, Cumnock in Ayrshire, and Blantyre in Clydes-
dale.
George, the tenth Earl of Dunbar and March, suc-
ceeded his father in 1369. From his vast possessions
he became one of the most powerful nobles of southern
Scotland and the great rival of the Douglases. His
daughter Elizabeth was betrothed, in 1399, to David,
Duke of Rothesay, son and heir to Robert III. ; and on
the faith of the Prince, who had given a bond to perform
the espousals, the Earl had advanced a considerable por-
tion of her dowry. But Archibald, Earl of Douglas —
surnamed the Grim — jealous of the advantage which this
marriage promised to a family whose j»re-eminence in
the state already rivalled his ovm, protested against the
alliance, and, by his intrigues at court, through the
Duke of Albany, had the contract between Rothesay
and Lady Elizabeth cancelled, and his own daughter
substituted in her place. Stimg by the insult, Earl
George •withdrew to England, where Henry IV. gi-anted
him a pension of £400 during the continuance of war
with Scotland, on condition that he provided 12 men-
at-arms and 20 archers with horses, to serve against
Robert. With a Douglas at Otterbum (1388), he had
defeated Hotspur ; now, with Hotspur, at Homildon
(1402), he defeated a Douglas. At last, through the
mediation of "Walter Halyburton of Dirleton, a recon-
ciliation was effected in 1408, Douglas consenting to
Dunbar's restoration, on condition that he himself should
get the castle of Lochmaben and the lordship of Annan-
dale, in lieu of the castle of Dimbar and earldom of
March, which he then possessed.
George, eleventh Earl of Dunbar and March, suc-
ceeded his father in 1420, being then nearly 50 years
old. In 1434, he and his son Patrick visited England,
The motive of this visit to the English court is not
known; but the slumbering jealousies of James I. —
who had already struck a blow at the power of the
barons — were easilj' roused ; and he formed the bold
plan of seizing the estates and fortresses of a family
which for ages had been the wealthiest and most power-
ful on the Scottish border. The Earl of Dunbar was
arrested and imprisoned in the castle of Edinburgh,
while the Earl of Angus, Chancellor Crichton, and Adam
Hepburn of Hailes were despatched with letters to the
keeper of the castle of Dunbar, who immediately sur-
rendered it to the King's authority. In a parliament
assembled at Perth on 10 Jan. 1435, George was accused
of holding his earldom and estates after their forfeiture
by his father's treason. In vain did he plead that his
father had been pardoned and restored by Albany ; it
was answered, that a forfeiture incurred for treason could
not be pardoned by a regent ; and the parliament, in
compliance with this reasoning, adjudged, ' that, iu
consequence of the attainder of George de Dunbar, for-
merly Earl of March and Lord of Dunbar, every right
both of property and possession in all and each of those
estates in the earldom of March and lordship of Dunbar,
and all other lands which he held of our said lord the
King, with all and each of their appurtenances, did and
does exclusively belong and appertain to our lord the
King.' Thus earldom and estates were vested in the
Crown ; and by James II. the lordship of Dunbar was
bestowed on his second son, Alexander, third Duke of
Albany, then in his infancy.
In i483 Albany gave the castle of Dunbar into the
405
DUNBAR
hands of the English ; a condition of the truce with
Henry VII. was, that its recapture by the Scots should
not be deemed an act of war. On the marriage of Mar-
garet of England with the King of Scotland in 1502, the
earldom of Dunbar and lordship of Cockburnspath, with
their dependencies, were assigned as the jointure of the
young Queen ; but the castle of Dunbar is expressly
mentioned as being reserved by the King to himself.
In 1516 John, fourth Duke of Albany, placed a French
garrison here, under poor De la Bastie ; and by the
French it was held till James V. , during his marriage
sojourn in Paris (1537), expressly bargained for its
evacuation. Three years later an English spy wrote
word how James ' at least twice every week in proper
person, with a privy company of six persons and himself,
repairs secretly by night, at the hour of twelve of the
clock or after, to his said castle of Dunbar, and there so
continues sometimes by the space of one day, and some-
times of two days, and returns by night again, and
hath put all his ordnance there in such case that the
same are in full and perfect readiness to be removed and
set forward at his pleasure. '
The English, in the inroad under the Earl of Hertford,
in 1544, after their return from the siege of Lcith, and
after burning Haddington, encamped the second night
— 26 May — near Dunbar. ' The same day,' says Patten,
' we burnt a fine town of the Earl of Bothwell's, called
Haddington, with a great nunnery and a house of friars.
The next night after we encamped besides Dunbar, and
there the Scots gave a small alarm to our camp. But
our watches were in such readiness that the)' had no
vantage there, but were fain to recoil without doing of
any harm. That night they looked for us to have burnt
the to\vn of Dunbar, which we deferred till the morning
at the dislodging of our camp, which we executed b)-
500 of our hackbutters, being backed Avith 500 horse-
men. And by reason we took them in the morning,
who, having watched all night for our coming and per-
ceiving our army to dislodge and depart, thought them-
selves safe of us, were newly gone to their beds ; and in
their first sleeps closed in with fii'e, men, women, and
children, were suffocated and burnt. That morning
being very misty and foggy, we had perfect knowledge
by our espials that the Scots had assembled a great
power at a strait called the Pease.'
In 1547, Hertford, now Duke of Somerset, invaded
Scotland with an army of 15,000 men ; and having
crossed the pass of Pease, with ' pulTying and payne,' as
Patten says, demolished the castles of Dunglass, Inner-
wick, and Thornton. ' This done, about noon, we
marched on, passing soon after within the gunshot of
Dunbar, a town standing longwise upon the seaside,
whereat is a castle — whicli the Scots count very strong
— that sent us divers shots as we passed, but all in vain :
their horsemen showed themselves in their fields beside
us, towards whom Bartevil with his 800 men, all
hackbutters on horseback — whom he had right well ap-
pointed— and John de Rybaud, ^vith divers others, did
make ; but no hurt on either side, saving that a man of
Bartevil's slew one of them with his piece. The skirmish
was soon ended.' In 1548, Dunbar was burned by
German mercenaries under the Earl of Shrewsbury, on
his return to England from the attack on Haddington.
On Monday, 11 March 1566, just two days after
Rizzio's assassination, Mary at midnight slipped out
from Holyrood, and, with Damley and six or seven
followers, riding straight to Seton House, there got an
escort on to the strong fortress of Dunbar, whose
governor ' was amazed, early on Tuesday morning, by
the arrival of his king and queen hungry and clamorous
for fresli eggs to breakfast.' Having thus seduced
Darnley to abandon his party, the Queen's next step
was to avenge the murder of her favourite. A proclama-
tion was accordingly issued from Dunbar on 16 March,
calling on the inhabitants of Edinburgh, Haddington,
Linlithgow, Stirling, etc., to meet her at Haddington
on Sunday the 17tli ; but it was not till the 27th that
Bothwell, with 2000 horsemen, escorted the royal pair
back to Edinburgh. Melville, the interim secretary,
406
DUNBAR
tells how at Haddington during this homeward journey
Mary complained bitterly of Darnley's conduct in the
late assassination ; and on 19 April, in parliament,
she, ' taking regard and consideration of the great
and manifold good service done and performed, not only
to her Highness's honour, weill, and estimation, but
also to the commonweill of her realm and lieges thereof,
by James, Earl Bothwell, and that, through his great
service foresaid, he not only frequently put his person
in peril and danger of his life, but also super-expended
himself, alienated and mortgaged his livings, lands, and
heritage, in exorbitant suras, whereof he is not hastily
able to recover the same, and that he, his friends and
kinsmen, for the most part, dwell next adjacent to her
Highness's castle of Dunbar, and that he is most habile
to have the captaincy and keeping thereof, and that it
is necessarily required that the same should be well en-
tertained, maintained, and furnished, which cannot be
done without some yearly rent, and profit given to him
for that effect, and also for reward of his said service :
therefore, her Majesty infefted him and his heirs-male in
the office of the captaincy keeping of the castle of
Dunbar, and also in the c^o^\^l lands of Easter and
Wester Barns, the lands of Newtonleyes, Waldane, etc.
So it was to Dunbar Castle that Bothwell brought
Mary ' full gently,' when, with 800 spearmen, he met
her at Fountainbridge, on her return from Stirling, 24
April 1567, ten weeks after the Kirk-of-Field tragedy.
The Earl of Huntly, Secretary Maitland, and Sir James
Jlelville, were taken captives with the Queen, while the
rest of her servants were suffered to depart ; and Mel-
ville himself was released on the following day. Of Both-
well and Mary, Buchanan tells that, ' they had scarcely
remained ten days in the castle of Dunbar, with no
great distance between the Queen's chamber and Both-
well's, when they thought it expedient to return to the
castle of Edinburgh. '
The marriage at Edinburgh, the retreat to BoRTH-
wiCK, and the flight thence in page's disguise to Cake-
MTJIR — these three events bring Mary once more to
Dunbar, for the third and last time, on 13 June. With
Bothwell she left next day to levy forces, and the day
after that comes Cakeeuky Hill, whence Bothwell
returns alone, to fly on shipboard, which ends Dunbar's
great three-act tragedy.
On 21 Sept. 1567, four companies of soldiers were
sent to take Dunbar, which surrendered to the Regent
on 1 Oct., and in the following December the castle,
which had so often sheltered the unfortunate and the
guilty, was ordered by Parliament to be destroyed. In
1581, among several grants excepted b)' James VI. from
the general revocation of his deeds of gift made through
importunity, mention is made of the ' forthe of Dunbar
gi-anted to William Boncle, burgess of Dunbar.' This
probably referred to the site of the fortress, and per-
haps some ground adjacent.
On 22 July 1650, Cromwell, at the head of 16,000
men, entered Scotland ; on 3 Sept. he fought the
Battle of Dunbar. Of which great battle and the events
that led to it we have his o\vn account in a letter to
Lenthall, Speaker of the Parliament of England : —
' We having tried what we could to engage the enemy, 3
or 4 miles W of Edinburgh ; that proving ineffectual,
and our victual failing, we marched towards our ships
fur a recruit of our want. The enemy did not at all
trouble us in our rear, but marched the direct way to-
wards Edinburgh ; and partly in the night and morning
slips-through his whole army, and quarters himself in a
posture easy to interpose between us and our victual.
But the Lord made him to lose the opportunity. And
the morning proving exceeding wet and dark, we re-
covered, by that time it was light, a ground where they
could not hinder us from our victual ; which was an
high act of the Lord's Providence to us. We being
come into the said ground, the enemy marched into the
said ground we were last upon ; having no mind either
to strive or to interpose between us and our victuals, or
to fight ; being indeed upon this aim of reducing us to
a lock, hoping that the sickness of our army would
DUNBAR
render their work more easy by the gaining of time.
Whereupon we marched to Musselburgh to victual, and
to ship away our sick men ; where we sent aboard near
500 sick and wounded soldiers.
' And upon serious consideration, finding our weakness
so to increase, and the enemy lying upon his advantage,
at a general council it was thought fit to march to Dun-
bar, and there to fortify the town. "Which, we thought,
if any thing, would provoke them to engage. As also,
that the having a garrison there would furnish us with
accommodation for our sick men, and would be a good
magazine, which we exceedingly wanted, being put to
depend upon the uncertainty of weather for landing pro-
visions, which many times cannot be done, though the
being of the whole army lay upon it ; all the coasts
from Berwick to Leith not having one good harbour.
As also, to lie more conveniently to receive our recruits
of horse and foot from Berwick.
' Having these considerations, upon Saturday, the
30th of August, we marched from Musselburgh to Had-
dington. Where, by that time we had got the van-
brigade of our horse, and our foot and train, into their
quarters, the enemy had marched with that exceeding
expedition that they fell upon the rear-forlorn of our
horse, and put it in some disorder ; and indeed had like
to have engaged our rear-brigade of horse with their
whole army, had not the Lord, by His Providence, put
a cloud over the moon, thereby giving us opportunity to
draw ofl' those horse to the rest of the arm}\ Which
accordingly was done without any loss, save of three or
fom- of our afore-mentioned forlorn ; wherein the enemy
— as we believe — received more loss.
' The army being put into a reasonable secure posture,
towards midnight the enemy attempted our quarters, on
the W end of Haddington ; but through the goodness
of God we repulsed them. The next morning we drew
into an open field, on the S side of Haddington ; we not
judging it safe for us to draw to the enemy upon his
own ground, he being prej^ossessed thereof; but rather
drew back, to give him way to come to us, if he had so
thought fit. And having waited about the space of four
or five hours, to see if he would come to us, and not
finding any inclination in the enemy so to do, we
resolved to go, according to our first intendment, to
Dunbar.
' By that time we had marched three or four miles, we
saw some bodies of the enemy's horse draw out of their
quarters ; and by that time our carriages were gotten
near Dunbar, their whole army was upon their march
after us. And, indeed, our drawing back in this man-
ner with the addition of three new regiments added to
th'jm, did much heighten their confidence, if not pre-
sumption and arrogancy. The enemy that night, we
perceived, gatheretl towards the hills, labouring to
make a perfect interposition between us and Berwick.
And having in this posture a great advantage, through
his better knowledge of the country he effected it, by
sending a considerable party to the strait pass at Cop-
perspath [Cockburnspath], where ten men to hinder,
are better than forty to make their way. And truly
this was an exigent to us, wherewith the enemy re-
proached us ; as with that condition the Parliament's
army was in, when it made its hard conditions with the
King in Cornwall. By some reports that have come to
us, they had disposed of us, and of their business, in
sufficient revenge and wrath towards our persons, and
had swallowed up the poor interest of England, believing
that their army and their king would have marched to
London without any interruption ; it being told us, we
know not how truly, by a prisoner we took the night
before the fight, that tlieir king was very suddenly to
come amongst them, with those English they allowed
to be about him. But in what they were thus lifted up,
the Lord was above them.
' The enemy lying in the posture before mentioned,
having those advantages ; we lay very near him, being
sensible of our disadvantages ; having some weakness of
flesh, but yet consolation and sujjport from the Lord
Himself to our poor weak faith, wherein I believe not a
DUNBAR
few amongst us stand : That because of their numbers,
because of their advantages, because of their confidence,
because of our weakness, because of our strait, we were
in the Mount, and in the Mount the Lord would be
seen ; and that He would find out a M^ay of deliverance
and salvation for us ; and indeed we had our consola-
tions and our hopes.
* Upon Monday evening — the enemy's whole numbers
were very great, as we heard, about 6000 horse and
16,000 foot at least ; ours drawn down, as to sound men,
to about 7500 foot and 3500 horse, — upon Monday
evening, the enemy drew down to the right wing aliout
two-thirds of their left wing of horse. To the right
wing ; shogging also their foot and train much to the
right, causing their right wing of horse to edge down
towards the sea. We could not well imagine but that
the enemy intended to attempt upon us, or to place
themselves in a more exact position of interposition.
The Major-General and myself coming to the Earl
Roxburgh's house [Broxmouth], and observing this
posture, I told him I thought it did give us an oppor-
tunity and advantage to attempt upon the enemy. To
which he immediately replied, that he had thought to
have said the same thing to me. So that it pleased the
Lord to set this apprehension upon both of our hearts at
the same instant. We called for Colonel !Monk, and
showed him the thing ; and coming to our quarters at
night, and demonstrating our apprehensions to some of
the colonels, they also cheerfully concurred.
' We resolved, therefore, to put our business into this
posture : That six regiments of horse and three regiments
and a half of foot should march in the van ; and that the
Major-General, the Lieutenant-General of the horse, and
the Commissary-General, and Colonel Monk to com-
mand the brigade of foot, should lead on the business ;
and that Colonel Pride's brigade. Colonel Overton's
brigade, and the remaining two regiments of horse,
should bring up the cannon and rear. The time of
falling-on to be by break of day ; but, through some
delaj^s, it proved not to be so ; not till six o'clock in the
morning.
' The enemy's word was The Covenant, which it had
been for diver days. Ours, The Lord of Hosts. The
Major-General, Lieutenant-General Fleetwood, and Com-
missary-General W^halley, and Colonel Twisleton, gave
the onset ; the enemy being in a very good posture to
receive them, having the advantage of their cannon and
foot against our horse. Before our foot could come up,
the enemy made a gallant resistance, and there was a
very hot dispute at sword's point between our horse and
theirs. Our first foot, after they had discharged their
duty, being overpowered with the enemy, received some
repulse, which they soon recovered. For my own regi-
ment, under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel Golt'e,
and my Major, White, did come seasonably in ; and, at
the push of pike, did repel the stoutest regiment the
enemy had there, merely with the courage the Lord was
pleased to give. Which proved a great amazement to
the residue of their foot ; this being the first action be-
tween the foot. The horse in the meantime did, with a
great deal of courage and spirit, beat back all opposition,
charging through the bodies of the enemy's horse, and
of their foot ; who were, after the first repulse given,
made by the Lord of Hosts as stubble to their swords.
Indeed, I believe I may speak it without partiality,
both your chief commanders and others in their several
places, and soldiers also, were acted [actuated] with as
much courage as ever hath been seen in any action since
this war. I know they look to be named ; and there-
fore I forbear particulars.
' The best of the enemy's horse being broken through
and through in less than an hour's dispute, their whole
army being put into confusion, it became a total rout ;
our men liaving the chase and execution of them near
eight miles. We believe that upon the place and near
about it were about three thousand felain. Prisoners taken:
of their officers, you have this enclosed list ; of j)rivate
soldiers, near 10,000. The whole baggage and train taken;
wherein was good store of match, powder, and bullet;
407
DUNBAR
DUNBARNY
all their artillcrj', great and small — thirty gnns. "We
are confident they have left behind them not less than
fifteen thousand arms. I have already brought in to me
near two hundred colours, which I herewith send you.
AVhat officers of theirs of quality are killed, we yet can-
not learn ; but yet surely divers are ; and many men of
quality are mortally wounded, as Colonel Lumsden, the
Lord Libberton, and others. And, that which is no
small addition, I do not believe we have lost 20 men.
Not one commissioned officer slain as I hear of, save one
cornet, and Major Rooksby, since dead of his wounds ;
and not many mortally wounded. Colonel "Wlialley
only cut in the hand-wrist, and his horse (twice shot)
killed under him ; but he well recovered another horse,
and went on in the chase. Thus you have the prospect
of one of the most signal mercies God hath done for
England and His people, this war' (Carlyle's Cromwell*
part vi.).
The subsequent history of Dunbar presents nothing very
memorable. At it Cope landed his troops from Aberdeen,
16 to 18 Sept, 1745— the week of the battle of Preston-
pans In 1779, Paul Jones's sipiadron hovered a brief
space in front of the town, and, in 1781, Captain G. Fall,
another American privateer, threatened a descent, but
sheered off on perceiving preparations making for giving
him a warm reception. By a strange coincidence the
provost in the latter year was Robert Fall, member of a
t'amil)' that, from the middle of the 17th to the close of
the 18th century, figures largely in the annals of Dunbar
as one of the chief merchant houses in the kingdom.
The Falls of Dunbar married into the Scottish baronetcy,
and gave a Jacobite member to Parliament ; yet Mr
Simson adduces many reasons for believing that they
came of the selfsame stock as the Gipsy Faas of Kirk-
Yetholm — Faa being tlie form under which we first meet
with the name at Dunbar, in the Rev. J. Blackadder's
Memoir, under date 1669. When on 22 May 1787
Robert Burns arrived at ' this neat little town, riding
like the devil, and accompanied by Miss , mounted
on an old carthorse, huge and lean as a house, herself as
fine as hands could make her, in cream-coloured riding-
clothes, hat and feather, etc' — he ' dined with Provost
Fall, an eminent merchant (Mrs F. a genius in paint-
ing).' AVhich is about the last that we hear of the Falls
at Dunbar, where, in 1835, there was 'not even a stone
to tell where they lie.' At York there are Falls at the
present day, who likewise lay claim to Romani origin
(Simson' s History of the Gipsies, 2d ed., New York, 1878 ;
and Notes and Queries, 1881).
The parish, containing also the villages of Belhaven
and East and West Baiixs, is bounded N and NE by
the German Ocean, SE by Innerwick, S by Spott and
Stenton, W by Prestonkirk, and NW by Whitekirk-
Tynninghame. Its utmost lengtli, from W by N to E
by S, is 7^ miles ; its breadth, from N to S, varies be-
tween 24 furlongs and 3 miles ; and its area is 8803
acres, of which 1284J are foreshore and 214 water.
At the western boundary is the mouth of the river
Tyne ; Dry Burn winds i^ miles east-north-eastward to
the sea along all the Innerwick border ; and to the sea
through the interior flow Spott Burn and Beil Water.
The coast to the W, indented by Tyniiinghame and
Belhaven Bays, presents a fine sandy beach ; but east-
ward from the mouth of Beil Water is bold and rocky,
' niclied and vandyked ' with headlands of no great
height, j'et here and tlierc jagged and savage in their
way. The interior exliiliits a pleasant diversity of hill
and dale, rising gradually towards the Lammermuir
Hills, and commanding a prospect of seaboard and ocean
from St Abb's Head to the Hass and the hills of Fife.
The liighest points are Biiunt Hill (737 feet) and Doon
Hill (582), these rising 3 and ^ miles SSE of the town,
the latter on the boundary with Spott ; since Dunbar
* John Aubrey, in his Miscellanies (1(596), records a circura-
Btance unnoticed Ijy Carlyle. 'One tlint I l<new,' he says, ' that
was at the Battle of Dunliar, told me tliat Oliver was carried on
with a Divine Impulse ; he did lau^rh sn excessively as if he had
>)cen drunk ; his Eyes sparkled with S|>irits. He obtained a great
Victory ; but the Action was said to be
rrudence.'
408
contrary to Uumaii
Common, Q\ miles SSW of the town, though sometimes
regarded as part of the parish, is really divided among
Spott, Stenton, and Whittinghame. A part of the
Lammerrauirs, with drainage towards the Berwickshire
"\\niitadder, it attains at Clints Dod a height of 1307
feet. The rocks of the parish exhibit interesting
]diases both of eruptive and of secondary formations.
Coal occurs, but not of sufficient thickness to bo
worked ; excellent grey limestone has long been quar-
ried ; and red sandstone, more or less compact, is
plentiful. The soil is partly a fertile loam, partly clay,
partly a light rich mould ; and the entire area, with
slight exception, is under tillage. A rough tombstone,
rudely inscribed with the name of Sir AVilliam Douglas,
is in the vicinity of Broxmouth Iloirse ; and in Brox-
mouth grounds is a small mound, crowned with a cedar
of Lebanon, and known as Cromwell's Mount, since
from it Cromwell beheld the descent of Leslie's army
from Doon Hill. Three ancient chapels stood at the
villages of Belton, Hedderwick, and Pinkerton ; but
both they and the villages have long been extinct. A
monastery of Red or Trinity Friars was founded at the
town, in 1218, by Patrick, fifth Earl of Dunbar, and has
bequeathed to its site the name of Friar's Croft ; and
by Patrick, seventh Earl, a monastery of AVhite or Car-
melite Friars was founded in 1263 near the town, it is
thought on ground where some Roman medals were
exhumed at the forming of a reservoir. A Mcdson Dieu
of unknown date, stood at the head of High Street.
Mansions are Broxmouth Park, Lochend House, Bel-
ton House, Hedderwick House, and Winterfield House ;
and 9 proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 12 of between £100 and £500, 31 of from £50
to £100, and 81 of from £20 to £50. The seat of a
presbytery in the synod of Lothian and Twceddale, this
parish is divided ecclesiastically into Dunbar proper and
Belhaven, the former a living worth £443. Tliree
schools under the landward board — Belhaven, East
Barns, and AVest Barns — with respective accommodation
for 122, 107, and 200 children, had (1880) an average
attendance of 53, 122, and 102, and grants of £37, 3s.,
£90, lis., and £82. Valuation (1843) £27,701, (1882)
£37,635, 16s. 4d. Pop. of civil parish (1801) 3951, (1821)
5272, an increase due to the cotton factory of Belhaven
1815-23 ; (1831) 4735, (1861) 4944, (187l') 4982, (1881)
5393 ; of ecclesiastical parish (1881) i0i9.—Ord. Sur.,
sh. 33, 1863.
The presbytery of DuNBAR comprises the old parishes
of Cockburuspath, Dunbar, Innerwick, Oldhanistocks,
Prestonkirk, Spott, Stenton, Whittinghame, and White-
kirk-Tynninghame, and the quoad sacra parish of Bel-
haven. Pop. (1871) 12,432, (1881), 12,663, of whom
2545 were communicants of the Church of Scotland in
1878. See James Miller's History of Dunbar (Dunb.
1830 ; new ed. 1859).
Dunbamy, a parish of SE Perthshire, containing the
post-office village of Bridge of Eaiin, with a station on
the North British, 3f miles SSE of Perth, and also, 1
mile S by W, the village of Kintillo. It is bounded
NW by the Craigend section of Forteviot, N by Perth,
NE by Rhynd, E by Abcrnethy, SE by Dron, and W
by the Gleneanihill section of Dron and by Forgandenny.
Its greatest length, from NNE to SSW, is 4J miles ; its
greatest breadth, from E to W, is 4 miles ; and its
area is 4136J acres, of which 76h are water. Tlic river
Eaiin winds 5| miles east-by-soutliward along tlio For-
teviot and Abernethy borders and tlirough the interior
between banks of singular beauty ; and from its low-lying
valley the surface rises northward to 725 feet on richly-
wooded MoxcREiFFE, southward to 800 on the western
.slojKs of Dron Hill. Trap and Old Red sandstone are
the prevailing rocks, and botli have been largely quarried.
Five mineral springs at Pitcaitiily enjoy a higli medi-
cinal repute, and attracted so many invalids and other
visitors, as to occasion the erection of Bridge of Earn
village, and of hotels both there and at Pitcaithly. The
soil of the arable lands is variously till, clay, loam, and
alluvium, and has been higlily improved. lUustrious
natives or residents were Robert Craigic (1685-1760),
DUNBARROW
Lord President of the Court of Session ; Robert Craigie,
Lord Craigie (1754-1S34), also an eminent judge ; Sir
Francis Grant (1S03-78), president of the Royal Aca-
demy ; and his brother, General Sir James Hope Grant,
G.C.B. (1808-75). Mansions are Ballexdrick, Kil-
GRASTON, MoNCREiFFE, Dunbarny, and Kinmonth, the
two last being 2 miles W by N, and 3 miles NE, of
Bridge of Earn ; and 5 proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 3 of between £100 and £500,
3 of from £50 to £100, and 12 of from £20 to £50.
Dunbarny is in the presbytery of Perth and synod of
Perth and Stirling; the living is worth £300. The
ancient church stood at the extinct village of Dunbarny,
close to Dunbarny House ; its successor was built near
Bridge of Earn in 1684 ; and a few yards E of the site
of this is the present church (1787 ; 650 sittings).
Chapels subordinate to the ancient church stood at
Moncreiffe and at Kirkpottie in Dron ; and that at Mon-
creilfe continues to be the burying-place of the Mon-
creiffe family. There is also a Free church ; and a
public school, erected in 1873, with accommodation for
180 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 106,
and a grant of £104, 5s. Valuation (1882) £8429,
12s. 7d. Pop. (1801) 1066, (1831) 1162, (1851) 1056,
(1871) 913, (1881) 756.— Orel Sur., sh. 48, 1868.
Dunbarrow, a detached south-eastern section of Dun-
nichen parish, Forfarshire, bounded on the SE by Car-
myllie, and on all other sides by Kirkden, a strip of
which, hardly a furlong broad at the narrowest, separates
it from Dunnichen proper. With utmost length and
breadth of IJ and 1 mile, it rises in all directions to a
hill-summit (500 feet) of its own name, on which are
some vestiges of an ancient fort.
Dunbarton. See Dumbarton.
Dunbeath, a village, a bay, and a stream of Latheron
parish, Caithness. The village stands on the left bank
of Dunbeath Water, h mile above its mouth, 6:^ miles
NNE of Berriedale, and 20 SW of Wick, under which
it has a post office, with money order, savings' bank,
and telegraph departments. An ancient place, the kirk-
town once of a parish of its own name, it possesses an
inn and a public school ; and fairs are held at it on the
third Tuesda}' of August and November. Dunbeath
Castle, crowning a peninsulated sea-cliff, 1 mile S of the
village, is partly a fine modern mansion, partly an
ancient baronial fortalice, which, in April 1650, was
captured and garrisoned by General Hurry for the Mar-
quis of Montrose. Its owner, Wm. Sinclair-Thomson-
Sinclair, Esq. of Freswick (b. 1844 ; sue. 1876), holds
57,757 acres in the shire, valued at £6207 per annum.
The bay is small, and has no capacity for shipping,
but possesses value for its salmon fisheries, and as an
excellent station for herring-fishing. Dunbeath Water,
issuing from little Loch Braigh na h-Aibhne (980 feet),
runs 14| miles north-eastward and east-south-eastward
along a picturesque strath, and falls into the northern
curve of the bay.— Ort^. Sur., shs. 110, 109, 1877-78.
Dun-Bhail-an-Righ. See Beregonium.
Dunblane (Gael. ' hill of Blane '), a town and a parish
of Strathallan, S Perthshire. The town stands, 250 feet
above sea-level, on the left bank of Allan Water, which
here is spanned by a one -arch bridge, built early in the
15th century by Bishop Finlay Dermoch ; its station on
the Scottish Central section of the Caledonian, at the
junction of the Callander line, is 11 miles ESE of Cal-
lander, 28 SW of Perth, 5 N by W of Stirling, 41 i
WNW of Edinburgh, and 34| NE of Glasgow. An
ancient place, it was burned under Kenneth mac Alpin
(844-60) by Britons of Strathclyde, and in 912 was
ravaged by Danish pirates, headed by Regnwald. But
its church dates back to even remoter times, to the 7th
century, and seems to have been an offshoot of Kingarth
in Bute, for its founder was St Blane, of the race of the
Irish Picts, and bishop of that church of Kingarth which
Cathanhis uncle had founded. The bishopric of Dunl)lane
was one of the latest established by David I., in 1150
or somewhat earlier ; among its bishops was Maurice,
who, as Bruce's chaplain and abbot of Inchaffray, had
blessed the Scotch host at Dannockburn. Long after,
DUNBLANE
in post-Reformation days, the saintly Robert Leighton
(1613-84) chose it as the poorest and smallest of Scot-
land's sees, and held it for nine }'ears till his translation
in 1670 to the archbishopric of Glasgow. In him Dun-
blane's chief interest is centred ; and his memory lives
in the Leightonian Library, the Bishop's Well, and the
Bishop's Walk, a pleasant path leading southward not
far from the river, and overshadowed Ijy venerable
beech trees. Then, too, there is Tannahill's song,
Jessie, the Flower o' Dumblane, recalled when the sun
goes down behind Ben Lomond ; or one may remember
that Prince Charles Edward held a levee in Balhaldie
House, now an old ruinous mansion, on 11 Sept. 1745,
and that the Queen drove through Dunblane on 13
Sept. 1844. The title of Viscount Dunblane in the
peerage of Scotland, conferred in 1675 on Peregrine
Osborne, who in 1712 succeeded his father as Dnke of
Leeds, is now borne by his sixth descendant, George-
Godolphin Osborne, ninth Duke of Leeds and eighth Vis-
count Dunblane (b. 1828 ; sue. 1872).
The town itself, though ranking as a city, is townlike
in neither aspect nor extent. Richard Franck, indeed,
who travelled in Scotland about the year 1658, calls it
' dirty Dunblane,' and adds, ' Let us pass by it, and not
cumber our discourse with so inconsiderable a corpora-
tion.' But to-day the worst charges to be brought
against Dunblane are that its streets are narrow, its
houses old-fashioned — light enough charges, too, when
counterweighed by charming surroundings, a brand-new
hydropathic establishment, a good many handsome villas,
and various public edifices of more or less redeem-
ing character. Foremost, of course, comes the prison,
which, erected in 1842 on the site of Strathallan Castle,
had its front part converted in 1882 into commodious
police barracks, whilst a new wing to the rear contains
10 cells for prisoners whose term does not exceed a
fortnight. The neighbouring courthouse was built in
1869, with aid of £3973 from Government. The
Leightonian Library is also modern, a small house,
the marble tablet on whose front bears the Bishop's
arms and the inscription 'Bibliotheca Leightoniana ; '
it contains his be(]uest of 1400 volumes for the use
of the clergy of the diocese, a number since con-
siderably added to, and serves now as a public read-
ing-room. On a rising knoll beyond the cathedral is a
mineral spring, which, according to analysis made in
1873, contains 19 '200 grains of common salt to 14 '400
of muriate of lime, 2 '800 of sulphate of lime, 4 '00 of
carbonate of lime, and 1'36 of oxide of iron. This
spring having been acquired by a limited company, a
fine hydropathic establishment, capable of accommodat-
ing 200 visitors, was built (1875-76), at a cost of £22,000,
on grounds 18 acres in extent. It commands a magni-
ficent prospect of the Grampians, and, designed by
Messrs Peddle & Kinnear, is English in style, with
central clock-tower, projecting wings, a recreation room
40 yards long, billiard room, etc. The town has,
besides, 2 hotels, a post ofiice, with money order, savings'
bank, insurance, and telegraph departments, branches
of the Bank of Scotland and the Union Bank, a local
savings' bank, 13 insurance agencies, gas-works, a public
reading and amusement room, 2 curling clubs, a volun-
teer corps, a building company, and an agricultural
society. "Thursday is market-day ; and fairs are held
on the first Wednesday in March o. s., the Tuesday
after 26 May, 10 August o. s., and the first Tuesday in
November o. s. Handloom weaving is almost wholly
extinct, but employment is given to a number of the
townsfolk by the wool and worsted mills of Keir and
Springbank.
Of Dunblane Cathedral Archbishop Laud remarked
in 1633 that ' this was a goodly church before the De-
formation.' It consists of a ruinous aisled, eight-bayed
nave (130 by 58 feet, and 50 high), a square tower, and
an aisleless choir (80 by 30 feet), with a chapter-house,
sacristy, or lady-chapel to the N. The four lower stages
of the tower, which stands awkwardly into the S aisle of
the nave, are all that remains of King David's Norman
cathedral, and exhibit a shafted N doorway, a S W stair-
409
DUNBLANE
case, and a rib-vaulted basement story ; to them tw
more have been added, of Second Pointed date, ending in
a parapet and a low wooden spire, the height to whose
top is 128 feet. The nave is almost entirely pure First
Pointed, the work apparently of Bishop Clement (1233-
58), who at Rome in person represented to the Pope
that, the Columban monastery having fallen into lay
hands,* the church had remained for nearly ten years
without a chief pastor ; that he, when appointed, found
the church so desolate that he had no cathedral wherein
to lay his head ; and that in this unroofed cliurch the
divine offices were celebrated by a single rural chaplain.
In the clerestory the windows are of two lights, with a
foiled circle set over them, very plainly treated outside,
but highly elaborated by a range of shafted arches run-
ning continuously in front of the windows within, so
much apart from them as to leave a narrow passage round
the building in the thickness of the wall. The E window
is rather an unusual variety of triplicate form for a large
building, the central light being much taller and wider
than that on each side of it. In the W front the ar-
rangement is peculiarly fine. Over the doorway and
its blind arch on either side are three very long and
very narrow two-light windows of equal height, with a
cinquefoil in the head of the central window, and a
quatrefoil in the head of the side windows ; whilst above
is a vesica, set ^^dthin a bevilled fringe of bay-leaves
arranged zigzag^\^se with their points in contact. It
was of this W front that Mr Ruskin thus spoke to an
Edinburgh audience : — ' Do you recollect the W window
of your own Dunblane Abbey ? It is acknowledged to
be beautiful by the most careless observer. And why
beautiful ? Simply because in its great contours it has
the form of a forest leaf, and because in its decoration it
has used nothing but forest leaves. He was no common
man who designed that cathedral of Dunblane. I know
nothing so perfect in its simplicity, and so beautiful, so
far as it reaches, in all the Gothic with which I am
acquainted. And just in proportion to his power of
mind, that man was content to work under Nature's
teaching ; and,' instead of putting a merely formal dog-
tooth, as everybody else did at the time, he went dowoi to
the woody bank of the sweet river beneath the rocks on
which he was building, and he took up a few of the
fallen leaves that lay by it, and he set them in his arch,
side by side for ever. ' The choir, which since the Re-
formation has served as the parish church, retained very
few of its pristine features, when in 1872-73 it was re-
stored and reseated, at a cost of £2000, by the late Sir G.
G. Scott. The eighteen oaken stalls, of 16th century
workmanship, with misereres and ogee-headed canopies,
were ranged N and S of the site of the high altar ; a
fine organ was erected ; and two stained-glass windows
were inserted by the late Sir William Stirling-Maxwell
of Keir, whose skilful eye watched over the whole work
of restoration. In the course of it a sculptured stone
was discovered, which, measuring 6 by 2 feet, bears
figures of a finely carved cross, a man on horseback, a
dog or pig, etc. ; among other interesting monuments
are efligies of Bishop Finlay Dermoch, Bishop Michael
Ochiltree, Malise Earl of Strathearn, and his Countess;
but during the unfortunate repairs of 1817 the plain blue
marble slabs were removed that marked the graves of
James IV. 's spouse (not queen), fair Margaret Drummond
and her two sisters, who all were poisoned at Drummond
Castle in 1502. The bishop's palace, overlooking the
Allan, to the SW of the cathedral, has left some
vestiges ; but nothing remains of the deanery or of the
manses of abliot, treasurer, prebends, and archdeacon.
Tlie Free churcli was built in 1854, the U.P. church in
1835, and St Mary's Episcopal church in 1844, whicli
last. Early English in style, consists of a nave with S
porch ancl structural sacristy.
A burgh of barony, vdth the Karl of Kinnoull for
8U])erior, and also a police burgh, tlie town is now
governed by a senior magistrate, 3 junior magistrates,
and 6 police commissioners. The municipal constituency
* Skene overthrows the commonly-received helief that Dunblane
was ever a seat of (Juldeey (Celt. Scot., ii. 403).
410
DUNBLANE
numbered 232 in 1882, when the burgh valuation
amounted to £7608. Pop. (1841) 1911, (1851) 1816,
(1861) 1709, (1871) 1921, (1881) 2186.
The parish, containing also the village and station of
Kinbuck, 2| miles NNE of Dunblane, is bounded NE
by Ardoch, E by Blackford and Alva, SE by Logic, SW
by Lecropt and Kilmadock, W by Kilmadock, and N by
Monzievaird (detached) and Muthill. Its utmost length,
from NNW to SSE, is 7g miles ; its width, from E to W,
varies between 7 furlongs and 6f miles ; and its area is
18,636§acres, ofwliich93|are water. Allan Water winds
8J miles south-south-westward, partly along the Ardoch
boundary, but mainly through the interior ; and Wharry
Burn, its aflluent, runs 5| miles west-south-westward,
chiefly along the south-eastern border ; whilst Ardoch
Burn meanders 5^ miles south-south-eastward and south-
ward through the western interior on its way to the
Teith. The surface declines along the Allan, in the
furthest S of the parish, to close on 100 feet above sea-
level, thence rising north-eastward to 878 feet beyond
Linns, 1500 at Glentye Hill, 2072 at *Blairdenon Hill,
1955 at *Mickle Corum, and 1683 at *Little Corum —
north-north-westward to 370 near Hillside, 509 near
Blarlean, 617 at Upper Glastry, 902 near Cromlix Cot-
tage, and 1653 at *Slymaback, where asterisks mark
those summits that culminate on the confines of the
parish. So that Dunblane comprises the principal part
of Strathallan, with a skirting of the Ochils on the E,
of the Braes of Doune on the W, and exhibits, especially
along the banks of its clear-flowing river, a series of
charming landscapes. The district to the N of the
town is mostly bleak and dreary, that towards the NW
consists in large measure of moors and swamps, and that
towards the E includes part of Sheriffmuih, and else-
where is occupied by heathy heights ; but to the S of
the town is all an assemblage of cornfiehls, parks, and
meadows, of wooded dells, and gentle rising-grounds.
The climate of the strath, in consequence partly of
immediate shelter from the winds, partly of the strath's
position in the centre of Scotland, at nearly equal dis-
tance from the German and Atlantic Oceans and from
the Moray and Solway Firths, is singularly mild and
healthy, free alike from biting E winds and from the
rain-dropiiing mists of the W. Eruptive rocks prevail
throughout the hills, and Red sandstone underlies all
the arable land, whose soil varies from gravel to reddish
clay. James Finlayson, D.D. (1758-1808), the eminent
divine, was born at Nether Cambushinnie farm — now
in Ardoch parish, but then in that of Dunblane, — and
went to school at the town. The Keir estate extends
into this parish, mansions in which are Ivippenross, KiP-
PENDAViE, Whitecross, Duthiestone, Kilbryde Castle,
and Crojilix Cottage. Eight proprietors hold each an
annual value of £500 and upwards, 6 of between £100
and £500, 6 of from £50 to £100, and 27 of from £20 to
£50. Dunblane is the seat of a presbytery in the synod
of Perth and Stirling ; the living is worth £413. Dun-
blane public, Kinbuck public, and Dunblane Episcopal
schools, with respective accommodation for 364, 92, and
62 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 223,
76, and 87, and grants of £191, 18s., £63, 18s., and
£67, 17s. Valuation (1866) £19,075, 12s. 7d., (1882)
£27,687, 4s. lid. Pop. (1801) 2619, (1831) 3228, (1861)
2528, (1871)2765, (1881) dl22.— Orel. Sur., sh. 39, 1869.
The prcsl)ytery of Dunblane comprises the ancient
parishes of Aberfoyle, Balquhidder, Callander, Dun-
blane, Kilmadock, Kincardine, Kippcn, Lecropt, Logic,
Port of Monteith, Tillicoultry, and Tulliallan, and the
quoad sacra parishes of Bridge of Allan, Buck ly vie,
Gartmore, and Trossachs, with the chapelry of Norris-
ton. Pop. (1871) 25,804, (1881) 26,501, of whom 5054
were communicants of the Churcli of Scotlaiul in 1878.
— The Free Church also has a presbytery of Dunblane,
^vith churclics at Iialquhidder, Bridge of Allan, Buck-
lyvie, Callander, Dunblane, Gartmore, Kilmadock, Kip-
])en, Norriston, and Tillicoultry, which together had
2203 communicants in 1881.
See vol. ii. of Billings' Baronial and Ecclesiastical
Antiquilics (1852) ; T. S. Muir's Characteristics of Old
DUNBLANE, DOUNE, & CALLANDER RAILWAY
Church Architecture (1861) ; and a History of Dunhlane,
by Mr John Miller, of Glasgow, announced as preparing
in Aug. 1881.
Dunblane, Doune, and Callander Railway. See Cale-
donian Railway.
Dunbog, a parisli of NW Fife, whoso church stands
3J miles E by S of the station and post-town Newburgh.
Bounded NW by the Firth of Tay, NE by Flisk, the
Ayton section of Abdie, and Creich, SE by Moni-
mail, and SW by the main body of Abdie, the parish
has an utmost length from NW to SE of 3g miles, a
varying breadth of 3 furlongs and 2J miles, and an area
of 2.396^ acres, of which 1^ are 'inks' and 70f fore-
shore. From a shore-line, 74 furlongs in extent, the
surface rises rapidly to 400 feet at Higham and 707 on
Dunbog Hill, the former of which eminences is culti-
vated to the top, and commands a superb view of the
basin and screens of the Tay, of lower Strathearn, and
of the frontier Grampians, whilst the southern is uncul-
tivated and almost barren. The valley between con-
tains the hamlet and the church, and is traversed by
the road from Newburgh to Cupar. The rocks are
mainly eruptive ; and the soil in a few fields is argilla-
ceous, but mostly is a shallow rich black mould, resting
on either rock or gravel. About 1820 acres are arable,
and 30 or so are underwood. Dunbog House, belonging
to the Earl of Zetland, occupies the site of a preceptory
of the monks of Balmerino ; and is alleged, but not on
good authority, to have been built by Cardinal Bethune.
COLLAIRNEY Castle is a ruin. In the presbytery of
Cupar and synod of Fife, Dunbog includes, quoad sacra,
portions of Abdie and Flisk ; the living is worth £345.
The church, built in 1803, contains 240 sittings ; and a
public school, with accommodation for 120 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 76, and a grant of
£58, 9s. Valuation (1882) £3799, 2s. lid. Pop. of
civil parish (1831) 197, (1861) 207, (1871) 220 ; oi q. s.
parish (1871) 395, (1881) 386.— Ord Sur., sh. 48,
1868.
Dunborerraig, an inland hill in Killarrow parish,
Islay island, Argyllshii'C. A ruined ancient fortalice is
on it ; has walls 12 feet thick, with a gallery running
through them ; measures 52 feet in diameter ^dthin the
walls ; and is thought to have been built by the Scandi-
navians, and used by the Macdonalds.
Dun, Bridge of. See Dun, Forfarshire.
Dunbuck. See Dtjmbuck.
Dunbuy, an insulated rock in Cruden parish, Aber-
deenshire, J mile S by W of the BuUers of Buchan.
Pierced by a magnificent natural arch, it is thought to
be the prototype of the Scrath Rock in Shirley's Cam-
'paAgn at Home, and is mentioned by Sir Walter Scott
in his Antiquary ; whilst Dr Johnson described it as 'a
double protuberance of stone, open to the main sea on
one side, and parted from the land by a very narrow
channel on the other. ' Its name (dun-buidhe) signifies
the ' yellow rock,' and alludes to its being covered with
guano from innumerable sea-fowl.
Duncanlaw, an ancient chapelry in the E of Yester
parish, Haddingtonshire. Its chapel was endowed by
Robert III., but is now quite extinct.
Duncansbay Head, a promontory in Canisbay parish,
Caithness, forming the north-eastern extremity of the
Scottish mainland, 1| mile E of John o' Groat's House,
and 18J miles N by E of Wick. Rising almost sheer
from the sea to a height of 210 feet, it is clothed to the
very brink of the precipice with a mixture of green-
sward and stunted heath, and bears remains of an ancient
watch-tower on its highest point, which commands a
magnificent view of the Pentland Firth and the Orkneys,
and over the Moray Firth, away to the seaboard and hills
of Elgin, Banff, and Aberdeen shires. In its northern
front, near the top of the precipice, is a vast cavern,
called the Glupe ; and elsewhere its seafowl-haunted
cliffs are gashed with deep wide fissures, one of them
spanned by a natural bridge. The Stacks of Duncansbay,
two rocky islets f mile SSW of the promontory, are
stupendous pyramidal masses of naked sandstone, that
lift their fantastic summits far into the air, and look
DUNDAFF
like huge pinnacles of some old Gothic pile. — Ord. Sur.,
sh. 116; 1878.
Duncansburgh, a quoad sacra parish formed in 1860
out of the Inverness-shire portion of Kiiuiallie parish,
and including the post-town Fort William. It is in
the presbytery of Abertarff and synod of Glenelg ; the
stipend is £120. A new parish church and manse were
built at Fort William in 1881 at a co.st of £5000.
Duncan's Height, a tumulus 36 feet high in St Andrews
parish, Orkney, on the isthmus at the southern extremity
of the parish.
Duncan's Hill, a round mound in the N of Caputh
parish, Perthshire, a little SAV of Glenbimam House, in
the southern vicinity of Dunkeld. It has traces of a
rude ancient fortification, and is popularly said to have
been the scat of King Duncan's court.
Duncharloway, a ruined circular fortification in Lochs
parish, Lewis, Ross-shire, on the southern shore of Loch
Caiioway.
Dunchifie, a ruined, ancient, strong fortification near
the middle of Gigha island, Argyllshire.
Duncomb, a conical hill on the N border of Old Kil-
patrick parish, Dumbartonshire, 3^ miles NNW of
Duntocher. It has an altitude of 1313 feet above sea-
level ; and it commands, through openings among neigh-
bouring hills, a magnificent prospect to the S, to the E,
and to the W.
Duncow, a village, a burn, and a barony of Kirkmahoe
parish, Nithsdale, Dumfriesshire. The village, on the
burn's left bank, 5 miles N by W of Dumfries, took
its name from a round hill or ' dun ' adjacent to it,
and retained dovfa to 1804 a large stone marking the
site of the cottage in which James V. is said to have
passed the night preceding his visit to Amisfield. It
now has a post otfice under Dumfries, a public school,
and a parochial library. The bum, rising within the
S border of Closeburn parish, runs 8 miles south-by-
eastward through Kirkmahoe parish, and falls into the
Nith 3 miles N by W of Dumfries. The barony, mainly
consisting of the burn's basin, belonged to the Comyns,
the ancient competitors for the Scottish crown. For-
feited by them, along with the neighbouring barony
of Dalswinton, and given to the Boyds, at the accession
of Robert Bruce, it afterwards passed to the Maxwells,
Earls of Nithsdale, and about 1796 was sold in sections
to various purchasers. — Ord. Sur., sh. 9, 1863.
Duncraggan, a quondam hamlet in Callander parish,
Perthshire, between Lochs Achray and Venachar, ad-
jacent to the charred remains of the New Trosachs
Hotel. It was the first stage of the fiery cross, as de-
scribed in the Lady of the Lake —
' Duncraggan's huts appear at last,
And peep, like moss-grown rocks, half-seen,
Half-hidden in the copse so green.'
Duncreich. See Creich, Sutherland.
Duncrevie, a village in the Kinross-shire section of
Arngask parish, 3^ miles NNE of Milnathort.
Duncrub, an estate, with a mansion, in Dunning
parish, SE Perthshire, 1 mile WNW of Dunning town.
Granted to John de Rollo in 1380 by David, Earl of
Strathearn, and erected in 1511 into a free barony, it
now is held by John Rogerson Rollo, tenth Baron RoUo
of Duncrub in the peerage of Scotland since 1651, and
first Baron Dunning of Dunning and Pitoairns in that
of the United Kingdom since 1869 (b. 1835 ; sue. 1852),
who owns 10,148 acres in the shire, valued at £8419 per
annum. See Dumckieff.
Duncryne, an abrupt, conical, and finely-wooded hill
in the centre of Kilraaronock parish, Dumbartonshire, 4
miles NE of Balloch pier. Resting on a basis of about
2 acres, and rising 462 feet above sea-level, it consists of
trap rock disintegrated on the surface by subaerial de-
nudation. Its summit is gained by a winding pathway,
and commands a splendid view of Strathendrick, the
Vale of Leven, and the hill-screens of Loch Lomond.
DundaflF, a waterfall on the mutual boundary of Lanark
and Lesniahagow parishes, Lanarkshire, on the river
Clyde, 2h furlongs below Corra Linn. It has a descent
of not more than 10 feet, but presents a pretty miniature
411
DUNDAFF
of the greater falls in its vicinity, and is well seen from
a spot near New Lanark village.
DundafiF, a range of hills in the W of St Ninians
parish, Stirlingshire. Forming the north-eastern section
of the Lennox Hills, it is divided on the S from the
Kilsyth HiUs by Carron "Water, on the "W from the
Fintry and the Gargunnock Hills partly by Endrick
AVater, partly by a line of watershed ; and, extending
about 5h miles from N to S, and 4 miles from W to E,
it commences in Dundaff proper (1157 feet), flanking
the Carron 7 miles SW by S of Stu-ling, and terminates
in Scout Head (709), near the Forth," 4 miles W by S
of Stirling. Between these rise Drummarnock (909),
Cairnoch (1354), Hart Hill (1428), and Earls Hill (1443),
with several other summits of similar altitudes. The
Dundaff range resembles the other sections of the Lennox
Hills in geognostic formation, but dilfers from them in
being less verdant or more heath}^ ; it belonged formerly
to the Grahams, ancestors of the Duke of Montrose,
and gives to the Duke, in the peerage of Scotland, the
title of Viscount DundaS.—Ord. Sur., shs. 31, 39,
1867-69.
Dundalav, a conical, steep, rocky hill in Laggan
parish, Inverness-shire, near the right bank of the Spey,
2| mUes AVSW of Laggan Bridge, and 13 WSW of
Kingussie. Its small tubular summit, rising 600 feet
above the circumjacent ground, commands a very exten-
sive prospect of the upper part of Badenoch, and is
crowned with remains of one of the most remarkable
ancient Caledonian forts in Scotland, formed of walls
from 5 to 25 feet thick, and measuring interiorly 420 feet
in length, and from 75 to 205 in width. The hill has
two projections or sub-summits on its sides, and seems
to have thence got its name — Gael, dun-da-laimh, 'fort
of the two hands. '
Dundaxave (Gael, dun-da-raimh, ' castle of the two
oars '), a strong old turreted tower in Kilmorich parish,
Argyllshire, occupying a low site on the shore of Loch
Fyne, 4i miles ENE of Inverary. A principal seat of
the Macnaughtons, it bears their motto ' I hoip in God,'
with the date 1596, and still continues in good preserva-
tion.
Dundardil, an ancient fort in Dores parish, Inverness-
shire, supposed to have been one of a chain of forts or
signal stations extending along all the Gleat Glen from
Inverness to Fort William.
Dundargue, an ancient baronial fortalice on the coast
of Aberdour parish, N Aberdeenshire, 3^ miles AVSAV of
Rosehearty. Crowning a sandstone peninsula 65 feet
high, it was built by the Englishman, Henry de Beau-
mont, fifth Earl of Buchan by right of his wife. From
him it was captured by the regent. Sir Andrew Moray,
in 1333 ; and now it is represented by mere vestiges.
Dundas Castle, a mansion in Dalmeny ])arisli, Lin-
lithgowshire, on the north-eastern extremity of a low
basaltic ridge called Dundas Hill, 1^ mile SSW of
Queensferry. The estate was held by a family of its
own name from 1124 or thereabouts till 1875, when it
was purchased by the trustees of the late James Russel,
Esq. ; it comprises 2082 acres, valued at £4724 per
annum. Tlie castle, partly of high antiquity, was
partly rebuilt by the late James Dundas, Esq. of Dun-
das (1793-1881) ; and, with its thick walls and its vaulted
chambers, is one of the finest and best-preserved baronial
fortalices in Scotland. It sustained a siege in 1449, and
on 24 July 1651 received a visit from Oliver Cromwell.
Dundas Hill, extending | mile from SE to NW, presents
to the SW a precipitous columnar front about 70 feet
high, attains an elevation of 380 feet above sea-level,
and terminates abruptly in a bold wooded bluff.
Dun-Daviot. See D.vvior, Inverness-shire.
Dundee, a to^vn and a jiarish, or group of parishes on
the southern border of Forfar.shire. The town stands
chiefly in its own parisli, Ijut partly also in the parish of
Lilf and Benvie. It is a royal bnrgh, a great seat of
manufacture, an extensive seaport, the largest seat of
pojjulation in Scotland next to Glasf'ow and Edinburgh,
and the rival, or more than the rival, of these cities and
©f the most prosperous of other Scottish towns, in
412
DUNDEE
modern rapidity of extension. It occupies a reach of
flats and slopes on the N side of the Firth of Tay,
3^ miles W of Broughty Ferry, 9 W of Buddon Ness,
14 S by W of Forfar, 21f ENE of Perth, 42 (vid Cupar-
Fife) N by E of Edinburgh, and 84 NE of Glasgow.
Seal of Dundee.
The ground beneath and around it rises rapidl)' from a
belt of plain, through undulating braes, to rounded
hills, and culminates directly N of the to^vn, about IJ
mile from the shore, in the summit of Dundee Law.
The edificed area, seen in profile, is picturesque ; the
outskirts ai'e well embellished with wood and culture ;
Dundee Law, rising to an altitude of 571 feet above sea-
level, has a fine, verdant, dome-shaped summit ; Balgay
Hill, a lesser eminence a little further AV, is sheeted
with wood ; and the entire town and environs, beheld in
one view from Broughty Ferry Road, or from the S side
of the Tay, look richly beautiful. ' Bonnie Dundee '
is a designation originally given to the persecutor
Claverhouse, recognising his outward or physical comeli-
ness, and ignoring his inward or moral hideousness ;
and it applies in a somewhat analogous way to the town,
whence he took his title of Viscount, recognising it
triUy as most attractive in its exterior, but making no
allusion to the character of its interior. The site, having
at once amenity, salubrity, and commerce, is singularly
advantageous ; but, for purposes of military defence it is
utterly untenable, being thoroughly commanded by the
neighbouring heights, and for the uses of facile
thoroughfare, social convenience, and sanitary law, it
has not, as we shall see, been judiciously aligned.
The ancient burgh stood on low flat ground along the
shore, only ^ mile long, between Tods Burn and AVallace
Burn ; and comprised only two principal streets, Sea-
gate, next the Taj', and Cowgate, somewhat parallel on
the N. The modern burgh as far exceeds the ancient
one as a great town exceeds a mere village. In one
gi-eat line of street, .somewhat sinuous, but mostly not
much off the straight line, it stretches from AV to E,
near and along the shore, under the name of Perth Road,
Nethergate, High Street, Seagate, and Crofts, nearly If
mile. In another great line, first north-westward, next
northward, ami again north-westward, it stretches from
the shore, through Castle Street, Murraygate, AVellgate,
and Bonnet Hill, upwards of j inile ; and even there
struggles onward through distinct beginnings of further
extension. A third line of street, commencing on tlie
W at the same point as Perth Road, but diverging till
nearly J mile distant, and called over this space Hawk-
hill ; then, under the name of Overgate, converging
toward it till both merge into High Street ; then, at the
latter street diverging northward through that part of
the second line which consists of Murraygate, ancl at the
end of that street debouching eastward under the name
DUNDEE
of Cowgate, nearly parallel to Seagate, extends about
1| mile. But while thus covering an extensive area,
the town possesses little regularity of plan. Excepting
numerous new streets, generally short ones, on the N
and a number of brief communications between the two
great lines along the low ground, not even the trivial
grace of straightness of thoroughfare is displayed. Most
of the old streets, too, are of varying width, and many
of the alleys are very narrow. Yet, by its public build-
ings, by its latest extensions, by its crowded harbour, by
its great and numerous factories, by its exhibitions of
enterprise and opulence, and by, here and there, a dash
of the picturesque, the town offers large compensation
for what it wants in the neat forms and elegant attrac-
tions of simple beauty.
High Street was anciently called Market Gate, from
connection with the public markets ; was at one time
popularly called the Cross, from its having contained,
for a long period subsequent to 1586, the old town cross ;
forms an oblong square or rectangle, 360 feet long and
100 broad ; is mostly edificed with modern, substantial
four-story houses, with shops on the ground floor ; and
presents a bustling, mercantile, and grandiose appear-
ance similar to that of Trongate or Argyll Street of
Glasgow. Seagate was once the fashionable quarter of
the burgh, the abode of the Guthries, the Afflecks, the
Brightons, the Burnsides, and other principal families ;
is a long, sinuous, and very narrow thoroughfare, quite
denuded of its ancient splendour ; has, within the last
few years, undergone considerable improvement ; is pro-
longed eastward, through Crofts and Carolina Port, with
continuity with Broughty Ferry road ; and communi-
cates laterally, through Queen Street, St Roque's Lane,
and Sugarhouse Wynd, with Cowgate. Murraygate,
which is now comparatively wide and well built, branches,
its N end, into Cowgate, Wellgate, and Panmure Street.
Cowgate inclines eastward ; is mostly of disagreeable
aspect, but contains some good and lofty buildings ;
has, of late years, been greatly improved ; and termi-
nates a few yards beyond in an interesting ancient gate-
way, known as Cowgate Port. King Street subdivides
and contracts Cowgate ; deflects at an acute angle from
its N side ; is, for the most part, well built ; possesses,
at its commencement, several elegant private residences
and handsome shops ; runs north-eastward to Wallace
Burn ; and merges there in the Arbroath road, leading to
the Baxter Park and the Eastern Necropolis. Wellgate
rises gently from Murraygate ; goes northward to Lady
Well, giving name to it ; and leads to Victoria Road,
Hilltown, Maxwellton, Smithfield, and other suburbs.
Victoria Road (formerly Bucklemaker Wynd) goes later-
ally from the top of Wellgate to Wallace Burn, and is
flanked on the N by an extensive rising-ground called
Forebank. Hilltown (formerly Bonnet Hill) goes on a
line with Wellgate ; climbs a steep ascent, and so is
called Hilltown ; took its name of Bonnet Hill from
once being the abode of bonnet-makers ; is now a seat of
various extensive manufactures ; consists generally of ill-
built houses, Jconfusedly interspersed with juteTactories ;
and presents a motley and grotesque appearance. Max-
wellton occupies grounds between Bonnet Hill and Hill-
bank, northward of Forebank, and is a suburb of recent
origin ; and Hillbank, situated on the villa grounds, is
a still newer suburb. Panmure Street, the third street
striking from the IST end of Murraygate, possesses some
of the best specimens of the town's street architectvire.
Castle Street goes from High Street, at right angles
with the commencement of Seagate ; leads down to the
harbour and docks ; is well editiced ; and breaks at its
foot into a fine open space, recently much improved by
the removal of the fishmarket. Crichton Street goes
from the SW corner of High Street ; runs parallel with
Castle Street ; and leads down to the greenmarket,
and on to Earl Grey's Dock. Dock Street runs E and
W along the harbour ; is a spacious, well-built, and
busy thoroughfare ; and has at its E end the custom-
house and the Arbroath railway station. Under the
Improvement Act of 1871 an enlargement and extension
of Commercial Street, from Albert Square to Dock
DUNDEE
Street, was carried out, and this is now one of the
handsomest and most architectural streets in the town.
Reform Street strikes from High Street in a direction
the reverse of Castle Street and Crichton Street ; was
erected after designs by Mr Burn, of Edinburgh, as one
of the finest streets in the town ; and both as to the
style of its buildings and as to the splendour of its shops,
rivals some of the best parts of Edinburgh. Bank
Street goes from nearly the middle of Reform Street ;
was opened shortly before 1870 ; and takes its name
from the oflice of the Bank of Scotland, occupying its
eastern corner. Albert Square opens from the northern
extremity of Reform Street ; surrounds a space formerly
occupied by unsightly tenements and hideous time-worn
erections ; was formed by clearances of these about the
year 1864 ; contains the Albert Institute, the Free
Libraiy and Museum, and the Burns, Kinloch, and
Carmichael monuments ; adjoins a number of .splendid
public edifices ; and is as handsome a central place as
any provincial town can boast. Ward Road goes west-
ward from Albert Square ; Constitution Road strikes
northward from nearly the middle of Ward Road ; Bell
Street intersects Constitution Road ; Parker S(|uare,
named after the late Provost Parker, lies westward from
Bell Street ; and Dudhope Road, communicating with
the north-eastern suburbs, leads westward to the Bar-
racks, the Infirmary, the Barrack Park, the Law, and
the open country beyond. The Pleasance also lies in
the NW, and is supposed, from its name, to have
been once a charming suburban quarter ; but is now a
dense assemblage of factories, and of miserable unwhole-
some dwellings.
Overgate, going westward from the NW corner of
High Street, is one of the oldest thoroughfares of the
town ; possessed in former times town mansions of the
Marquis of Argyll, the Earls of Angus, Viscount Dundee,
Stirling of East Baikie, and other magnates ; was
originally called Argyllgate from its connection with the
family of Argyll ; sends off various wynds or alleys to
the right and the left ; exhibits, together with these
wynds, an utter recklessness of architectural taste or
uniformity, feebly redeemed by the presence of many
good houses ; has a total length of more than ^ mile ;
and terminates at the West Port, one of the most busy
and stirring parts of the town. South Tay Street, form-
ing the principal communication from Overgate to the
lower part of the town, is handsomely edificed, and
possesses a beautiful square. Hawkhill, diverging
in a line westward from the West Port, contains a
number of large factories and many good buildings,
and joins the Perth Road at Blacknessgate. Go^\Tie
Place, at the W end of Hawkhill, is a large and
splendid block of houses. Scouringburn, running
north-westward from the West Port, contains ex-
tensive factories and a dense population, and joins
the Lochee Road opposite Dudhope Free church.
Lindsay Street, Barrack Street, and other modern
thoroughfares northward from Overgate and Scouring-
burn present good lines of new and pleasingly con-
structed buildings. Nethergate, going westward from
the S W corner of High Street, is prolonged to the western
outskirts by Perth Road ; forms, jointly with Perth
Road, a continuous reach of about a mile in length ; is
of very unequal breadth, and of somewhat unequal
architecture, but averagely spacious and well edificed ;
exhibits, in its middle and western portions, and in
streets branching from it, as aristocratic an air as can
comport with proximity to manufacturing and commer-
cial stir ; contains, in its Perth Road section, some
handsome villas with flower-plots in front ; and leads,
through a forking continuation seaward, into the pro-
menade of Magdalene Green. Union Street goes from
Nethergate, opposite the town churches, northwards
towards the West and Tay Bridge stations, the esplan-
ade, the Tay ferries, and the harbour ; was formed in
1828 on clearances of many old, unsightly, time-worn
houses ; is a spacious and handsomely ediliced thorougli-
fare ; and had its southern extremity greatly improved
in 1882 by the removal of a block of old houses, the
413
DUNDEE
abodes of the very lowest classes of inhabitants. Yea-
man Shore and Exchange Street are well-built thorough-
fares of comparatively modern construction adjoining
the harbour. Several other streets, in addition to those
we have named, contribute good features to the new
parts of the town and to its outskirts.
Although rich in historical associations, few build-
ings now remain which are of much interest to the
antiquary. The imperious demands of an ever-increasing
population and of a constantly expanding trade, have
led to the removal of numerous tenements of historic
value, which for many centuries had withstood the
destroying hand of Time. No fewer than 19 ancient
churches or chapels, all now extinct, stood within the
town or its suburbs ; and in many instances were so
prominent as to give their names, in some manner or
other, to localities near or around them. St Paul's
Church was the oldest, stood within ]\Im-raygate and
Seagate, and gave the name of Paul's Close to an alley
which was closed so late as about 1866. St Clement's
Church occupied the site of the present Town-Hall in
High Street ; was a large, oblong structure, with a high
steep roof, and with small circular turrets at the four
corners ; is seen towering above the surrounding build-
ings in Slezer's view of the town, published in 1696 ;
and gave its name to St Clement's Lane, leading to the
shore. St John's Church stood on a rock a short way E
of Carolina Port, nearly 1| mile from High Street ; was
called originally Kilcraig, signifying ' the church upon
the rock,' but called afterwards by the Roman Catho-
lics the Church of the Holy Rood ; and is commemo-
rated in the name of an adjacent burying-ground, called
Rood Yard. St Roque's Chapel stood outside of Cow-
gate Port, between Denbridge and the E end of Seagate,
and is commemorated in the name of an alley running
from Seagate to King Street, and called St Roque's Lane.
St Salvator's Chapel stood on a rocky rising-ground N
of High Street and Overgate, and is commemorated in
the name of an adjacent close. Our Lady's Chapel stood
at the foot of Hilltown, and is commemorated in the
names of Ladywell and Ladywell Yard. St Nicholas'
Chapel stood on a rock at the western part of the har-
bour, and gave to its site the name Nicholas Rock,
afterwards changed into Chapel Craig. St Michael's
Chapel adjoined to the town mansion of the old Earls of
Crawford, and was demolished to make way for Union
Street. St Mary's Chapel stood on the E side of Couttie's
Wynd, and was represented till recently by a vestige of
its basement. Logic Church stood westward of the
toAvn, within the present parish of Liff and Benvie, and
was a mensal or table-furnishing church of the Bishop
of Brechin. St Blaise's Chapel stood on the W side of
Thorter Row. St Thomas' Chapel occupied part of a
rock which was cut away to make room for Reform
Street. Cowgate Chapel, also called Our Lady's Chapel,
stood on the S side of Cowgate, at the top of Sugarhouse
Wynd, previously called Fintry's Wynd, and originally
called Our Lady's AVynd. St Serf's Chapel, St Stephen's
Chapel, St Fillan's Chapel, St James the Less's Cliapel,
St James the Greater's Chapel, and St Margaret's Chapel
occupied sites which cannot now be identified.
Tlie Greyfriars' Monastery, adjacent to what is now
the Howfl', is said to have been founded about 1260 by
Devorgilla, mother of King John Baliol ; was the meet-
ing-place, in 1309, of a great national ecclesiastical
council recognising Robert Bruce as King of Scotland ;
and was entirely demolished at the Reformation. A
Black friars' monastery stood on the W side of Barrack
Street, originally called Friars' Vennel, is said to have
been founded in the 15th century by a burgess of Dun-
dee ; had gardens and orchards extending westward to
Lindsay Street ; and was swept away at the Reforma-
tion. A Redfriars' monastery stood conjunctly with a
hospital at the foot of South Tay Street ; was founded,
in 1392, by Sir James Lindsay of Crawford ; seems,
with the hospital, to have formed a large and splendiil
froup of buildings, surmounted by a tower ; was partly
umed, in 161f», by the Marcjuis of ilontrose ; and con-
tinues still to figure in the town's landscape at the pub-
414
DUNDEE
lication of Slezer's view in 1696. A Franciscan nunnery,
or nunnery of St Clair, stood at the top of Methodist
Close, off the N side of Overgate ; was a large, massive,
lofty pile, forming three sides of a quadrangle roimd a
small court ; came to be occupied in modern times by a
number of poor families ; retained in its interior, even
then, some relics of ancient grandeur; and was de-
molished so late as Nov. 1870. A IMagdalene establish-
ment stood near the river, at the SW side of the town ;
seems to have occupied a spot there, at which several
fragments of statues were exhumed at the digging of
foundations for modern houses ; and gave name to the
open ground still called Magdalene Green.
The most notable of still existing antiquities is St
Mary's Tower, or the Old Steeple as it is popularly termed,
situated in the Nethergate. This massive and venerable
tower is among the most ancient piles in the country,
having survived storm and tempest, fire and siege, for
many centuries. According to the commonly received
account, this tower was founded by David, Earl of
Huntingdon, in 1189, but recent research assigns it to the
middle of the 14th century. The tower rises to a height
of 156 feet, is square, the inside of the square measuring
8 yards, with walls nearly 8 feet in thickness. The
grand entrance is in the W front, and exhibits a great
variety of decoration. The ascent to the top of the
toAver is by an octagonal staircase, in the NE wall, in
one unbroken line from base to summit — the frequent
repetition of loop-holes or windows surmounting each
other giving an air of loftiness to the imposing mass,
which completely neutralises the lowering effect of the
horizontal lines prevailing on its different stages. On
entering the lower part of the tower by the western
door, the visitor finds himself in a spacious apartment,
with an area of 576 square feet. The sedilia, or stone
seats, still remain entire, and extend along the N, S,
and W walls. The groined roof, remarkable for its
loftiness, is supported at each corner by pillars of huge
proportions, and has a rich as well as a dignified effect,
the bosses on its groined arches being bold and full,
with a large circular aperture in the centre of the groin.
On the W front of the middle parapet is an admirable
figure of the Virgin and Child ; a figure of our Lord,
sitting on his throne, with a sceptre in his right hand,
and an orb in his left, occupies a niche on the E side ;
and a standing figure of St David, the founder of the
tower, with his sceptre and orb, is on the S side. In
1871-73 the fabric imderwent a thorough restoration
under the supervision of Sir Gilbert Scott, at a cost of
about £8000, the most of which was raised by public
subscription, but latterly the work was taken in hand
and completed by the town council. The tower con-
tains a splendid peal of bells, which were formally
inaugurated on May 21, 1873, on which day also the
memorial stone of the restoration was laid with masonic
honours. Previous to the restoration the Old Steeple
had a clock, with four dials ; but those were abolished,
as not being in harmony with the architectural features
of the venerable pile ; but in 1882, in deference to
public opinion, the town council restored the clock, sub-
stituting ornamental skeleton dials, at a cost of £130.
The Old Town's Cross, originally erected in 1586, at
first in the Seagate, at the S end of Peter Street, subse-
quently in the middle of the High Street, now stands
to the S of the Old Steeple ; was removed from the High
Street in 1777, the place where it stood being still indi-
cated by the stones being arranged in a circular form ;
for many years the stones forming the Old Cross were
stowed away about the base of tlic Old Steeple ; and
were re-erected in their present position in 1876. The
shaft, which is still in a pretty good state of preserva-
tion, is the original one ; but the unicorn is a reproduction,
the original having been so broken and decayed as to be
incapable of restoration. At tlie top of one of the sides
of the shaft are the burgh arms, \\-ith the town's motto,
' Dei Donum,' now somewhat obliterated, and the date
1586.
The Cowgate Port, at the eastern extremity of the
street which bears this name, has a central archway.
DUNDEE
8i feet wide and 11 liigh ; but must have been higher
originally, as the ground has been raised in the course
of years ; has been frequently 'improved,' the most
recent ha^ang been in 1877, when a plate was fixed on
the outer or E side, with the following inscription : —
' During the plague of 1544 George Wishart preached
from the parapet of this port, the people standing within
the gate, and tlie plague-stricken lying without in
booths. "He sent His Word and healed them"
(Psalm cvii.). Restored in 1877.' Dundee was in olden
times the occasional residence of royalty, and a palace
formerly stood on the S side of the Nethergate (then
known as Fleukargate), a little to the Eof Union Street.
A close leading from the Nethergate still bears this
name, but the only portion of the original wall of the
palace that now remains, and has traces of antique
carving upon it, is now doomed to demolition in the
course of contemplated town improvements. In March
1879 an old building on the N side of High Street,
nearly opposite the top of Crichton Street, and known
as ' Our Lady Warkstair's Land, ' was taken down ; was
four stories in height ; had a wooden front with two
triangular elevations ; was supposed to have been buUt
about the year 1500, to have been a repository of a charity
or almshouse under the church, and dedicated, according
to the fashion of the times, to Our Lady the Virgin.
The old Custom House, at the corner of Fish Street and
Greenmarket, is another ancient building destined to
early demolition ; furnished the scene of many of the
incidents in the novel of The Yellow Frigate, by Mr
James Grant ; and is remarkable from the fact that, at
the beginning of the present century, a large quantity of
silver coin, numbering nearly 200 pieces, was found em-
bedded in the mortar — this money, it is believed, having
been concealed by some townsman prior to the siege of
the to^-n in 1651. The Luckenbooths stood at the eastern
end of the Overgate, where it joins the High Street, and
is still recognisable by the flat-capped turret at its north-
eastern angle, and is noteworthy as having been the
residence of General Monk, after he captured the town,
and as being the birthplace of Anne Scott, Countess of
Buccleuch. Dudhope Castle, originally the principal
seat of the Scrymseours, hereditary constables of Dundee,
and situated on a terrace at the foot of the Law, is now
used as an infantry barracks ; towards the end of last
century was turned into a woollen manufactory, which
proving unsuccessful the building passed into the hands
of the Government, in whose possession it has since re-
mained. In quite recent years the removal of the
Trades' Hall at the E, and of Union Hall, at the W end
of High Street, has caused two well-known public
buildings to disappear from \aew, whilst greatly improv-
ing that central thoroughfare.
The increase of Dundee has been strikingly exhibited
in its population, which has almost quadrupled in a
single generation :— 1841, 63,732; 1861, 90,426; 1871,
120,547 ; 1881, 140,054. The municipal and parlia-
mentary constituency was— 1871, 16,281 ; 1877, 18,964 ;
1881, 15,827. The revenue of the town proper — known
as the ' common good ' — consists of lands, houses,
churches, and salmon fishings, and has varied consider-
ably at different periods, and now amounts to about
£6000 annually. The revenue from the common good,
however, is dwarfed by that of the several Boards into
which the Town Council has been constituted by recent
acts of parliament. The accounts for the year 1881
showed that as a police board it raised £93,878, ex-
pended £96,211, and had a debt of £687,037. As a
water commission it raised £37,532, expended £39,440,
and had a debt of £430,938. The harbour board, to
which it ajipoints members, had a revenue of £50,103,
expended £45,533, and had a debt of £349,621. The
gas commission had a revenue of £58,609, expended
£61,238, and had a debt of £121,309. In addition, the
school-board had arevenueof £22,217, expended£20,444,
and had a debt of £60,995. The comliination parochial
board raised £25,786, expended £26,052, and had a debt
of £15,466. Several other minor boards brought the
revenue of the various public corporations for 1881 to
DUNDEE
£303,991, the expenditure to £303,121, and the total
debt to £1,724,258. The increase in the value of ground
in Dundee has been very remarkable. According to an
authentic statement, in 1746 ' the highest rent in the
High Street did not exceed £3,' and some extraordinary
instances are recorded of the manner in which property
has since risen in value. A wood-yard, bought at the
beginning of the century for £600, was sold in 1826 for
£5000 ; and in 1835 it was resold in portions at prices
which brought the total purchase-money up to £15,000.
In more recent years the same upward tendencies have
been exhibited. In 1858 a tenement on the AV side of
Reform Street to the N of Bank Street was purchased at
equal to £1600 ; in 1875 it was sold at £4500. In 1867
a shop in the W side of Union Street was sold by public
roup at £750 ; at the end of 1876 it was resold at
£3200. In 1859 a property in the High Street was
purchased at £1400 ; it was resold in 1873 at £5250.
In like manner, the feuing of ground in the centre of
the town has greatly increased, and in some instances in
recent times has been known to be trebled in about
three years. Union Street was opened up in 1828, when
the population of Dundee was some 40,000. The lots
on either side of this street were sold at feu-duties rang-
ing from £2, 6s. Id. to £8, 17s. 2d. per pole. Reform
Street was opened up about the year 1833, and the feus
in it vary from £2, Os. lOd. to £19, 16s. 5d. per pole.
Panmure Street, the next of the more important im-
provements of Dundee, was opened about the year 1841.
The feu-duties there ranged from £3, 4s. to £15, 9s. 2d.
per pole. Bank Street followed, and was given off at
rates varying from £1, 10s. lid. to £3, 4s. Lindsay
Street was opened up earlier than Bank Street or Pan-
mure Street ; and the rate varied from about £1, 15s.
to about £2, 16s. lOd. per pole. Under the operation
of the Improvement Act of 1871, the whole property
constituting what is called the Victoria Road Improve-
ment has been feued by the commissioners of police at
rates varying from £3, lOs. 6d. to about £19, 14s. 8d. per
pole ; while the feus in the centre of the town have
gone up to rates varying from £28, 5s. 4d. to £35,
13s. 7d. per pole. If Lindsay Street be contrasted with
Victoria Road— and the contrast in point of situation
appears to be all in favour of Lindsay Street — we have
on the whole an increase of fully 400 per cent. ; and if
Reform Street be contrasted with the new feus in the
centre of the town — in other words, with the new Com-
mercial Street feus — there is an increase on the average
of fully 300 per cent. also. This, in little more than a
generation — viz., from say 1830 to 1877 — is marvellous.
The details of purchases along Victoria Road are pro-
bably even more instructive. For instance, the pro-
perty in Lady well Lane belonging to the town of Dun-
dee was sold to the police commissioners in 1872 at
about £3 per pole, and, after providing for the formation
of the street, what remained was refeued at double that
rate. The same remark applies to the property on the
W side of Powrie Lane ; while, with regard to property
in Bucklemaker Wynd, purchased by the police com-
missioners in 1870 at equal to £1, 12s. per pole, it was
feued to the Victoria Road Calendering Company at
equal to £3, 16s. 3d. per pole. The upward tendency
in the value of property and ground, however, received
a severe check in 1877, and for a number of years sub-
sequently there was a continuous deterioration in values.
Under the extended powers of the Town Council, a large
number of assessments of different kinds are now levied.
The tendency of late years has been to have these re-
duced. The following was the assessable rental of the
town, and the rates per £1 of the police and other burgh
assessments for a series of years — 1831, £72,821, rate
Is. 3d. ; 1841, £107,126, rate Is. 5d.; 1851, £111,003,
rate Is. 2d. ; 1861, £209,333, rate Is. ll^d. ; 1871,
£370,122, rate Is. 6d. ; 1876, £541,551, rate Is. lid. ;
1880, £588,829, rate Is. lid. ; 1881, £595,570, rate
Is. lljd. The Improvement Act of 1871 did very
much to improve tlie town, by procuring the demoli-
tion of old and dilapidated buildings, widening the
leading and more crowded thoroughfares, and forming
415
DUNDEE
additional means of communication between important
business parts of the town. A spacious thorough-
fare, known as Victoria Road, has been constructed
along what used to be known as Bucklemaker "Wynd,
extending from Bell Street to Cotton Road, substi-
tuting a handsome street, 60 feet wide, for the gullet
of the Bucklemaker Wynd, which had only 13 feet of a
carriage-way, and over which at least 1000 vehicles daily
passed and repassed. A commodious bridge was also
constructed across the Dens, now known as Victoria
Bridge, connecting the south-eastern district of the
town with the north-eastern. The approaches to the
eastern district by Powrie Lane and Water Wynd have
been greatly improved. The continuation of Commercial
Street, between Meadowside and the Murraygate, not
only gives a short cut from the High Street to the Ex-
change, but also provides a large number of first-class
shops and business premises. The ^videning of what
was previously known as the Narrow of the Murraygate,
by demolishing all the old buildings between it and the
Seagate, has got rid of a description of property which
was a disgrace to the town. The opening up of the
High Street by the removal of the Clydesdale Bank at
one end and the Union Hall at the other, and the
removal of the old houses in the neighbourhood of Fish
Street, are all palpable improvements. The gross value
of the property schedvded for these extensive improve-
ments was £400,000, the police commissioners having
jjower to borrow to the extent of £200,000, and to levy
an improvement rate of 4d. in the £1.
The Town- Hall stands on the S side of the High
Street ; occupies the site of the old church of St Clement ;
was erected in 1734, after designs by the elder Adam ;
projects several feet from the line of the adjacent build-
ings ; is in the Roman style, with piazzas and Ionic
pilasters ; is surmounted, through the roof, by a spire
140 feet high, in which is a clock, with bells that chime
every quarter of an hour ; underwent restoration in
1853-54 ; contains the council chamber, the guildhall,
and the offices of the town clerk. The new Town-Hall,
erected to the rear of the town buildings, was erected in
1873, and is now used as the offices of the Dundee Com-
bination Parochial Board. The Royal Arch, on the S
side of Dock Street, was erected in 1853, to comme-
morate the landing of the Queen at Dundee in Sept.
1844, by public subscription at a cost of more than
£3000, towards which the harbour trustees voted £500
and the late Lord Panmure contributed £750 ; com-
prises a great central arch and two side arches, sur-
mounted by two central turrets ; and is in the Anglo-
Saxon stjde, with profuse ornamentation. The Custom-
House stands at the E end of Dock Street ; was erected
in 1843 at a cost of £8000; is a large fine structure,
with a portico in the Roman Ionic style ; and contains
accommodation for the Customs, the Excise, and the
Harbour Trust. The Albert Institute stands in the
centre of Albert Square ; was erected in 1865-68 as a
subscription memorial to the late Prince Consort, after
designs by Sir Gilbert Scott ; stood then and for some
years afterwards incomplete, with an unsightly gap in
its SW wing ; was nevertheless even then an imposing
structure, particularly in its northern front ; is in the
Gothic style, with an exquisite wheel window in the
N gable, a splendid flieche on the summit, and other
richly artistic features ; contains in the upper story a
noble hall, with fine open roof, and has a commodious
suite of rooms attached ; the eastern portion, used as a
free museum and picture gallery under the provisions
of the Free Libraries Act, was completed in 1874, having
been erected from a plan by Mr D.' M'Kenzie, a local
architect ; has a public fountain on the E, which is made
to play on certain special occasions, the architectural
features being in keeping with the nature of the ground
and the style of the Institute buildings ; the basins arc
of Polmaise stone, flanked by polished shafts of Peter-
head granite, and ornamented with carved heads of
lions, etc. The Albert Institute having been wound up,
the building was, on March 28, 1879, put up for sale by
public auction, and acquired by the Corporation for the
416
DUNDEE
nominal upset price of £1000, it being a condition of
sale that the building shall not be otherwise used than
for a philosophical institute, comprising a museum,
lecture-rooms, reading-rooms, and picture gallery ; and
that they shall in all time coming be appropriated to
the purposes for which they were originally designed.
The Ro3-al Exchange stands at the N end of Panmure
Street ; was built in 1853-56, after designs by David
Bryce, of Edinburgh, at a cost of more than £12,000 ; is
an elegant structure in the Flemish style of the 15th
century, common in Brussels and other large towns of
the Low Countries ; shows a side frontage of two stories,
surmounted by a range of dormer windows, with
traceried heads and crocketed gables ; contains a lofty
handsome hall, or reading-room, 77 feet long and 34
wide, with fine ornamented roof ; and has a tower which
was intended to be 120 feet high, with a stone crown,
but could not be finished in consequence of the gi'ound
beneath it threatening to sink, and was terminated at
only one stage above the main building, in a curved
parapet and flat roof. The Eastern Club stands on
the S side of Albert Square, opposite the Albert In-
stitute ; was erected in 1870 ; is in the Venetian style;
and has a highly ornate front. The Court -House
buildings, for the holding of justiciary and sheriff
courts, are in West Bell Street ; consist of a long-drawn
and lofty range of massive stone buildings ; were erected
in 1864-65, with aid of £13,587 from government ; and
are a handsome and spacious edifice, with portico sur-
mounted by the royal arms in bold relief. The Kinloch
monument stands to the NW of the Albert Institute,
facing towards the SW ; commemorates George Kinloch,
the first member for Dundee in the reformed parliament ;
was inaugurated on Feb. 3, 1872 ; and consists of a
bronze statue by Sir John Steell, R.S.A., of Edinburgh,
about 8 feet high. The Carmichael statue stands to the
SE of the Albert Institute ; was erected by public sub-
scription to commemorate the leading member of the
firm of James and Charles Carmichael, iron-founders,
who conferred a boon upon the trade with which he was
connected by the invention of the fan blast ; the sculptor
was Mr John Hutchison, R.S.A. , of Edinburgh, and the
statue was cast in bronze at the Manor Iron-works,
Chelsea ; the figure is in a sitting posture, and, including
the red granite pedestal, the monument stands about 18
feet high ; the statue was formally unveiled on June 17,
1876. The Burns statue stands to the SW of the Albert
Institute ; is by Sir John Steell, being a replica in bronze
of a statue sent to New York, and represents the poet in
a sitting posture ; the figure is colossal, being about 12
feet in height ; the cost of the replica was 1000 guineas,
and of the pedestal, which is of Peterhead gi'anite, £230 ;
the total cost of the work was about £1400, the greater
portion of which was raised by means of a bazaar ; the
statue was formally unveiled on Oct. 16, 1880, on which
occasion a grand procession, numbering between 6000
and 7000 persons, and composed of representatives of the
different trades, took place. The j\Iarket Shelter is
opposite the Albert Institute on the N side, and in a
recess at the W end of the Exchange buildings ; was
erected for the accommodation of the gentlemen attend-
ing the market, which is held on the street facing the
Exchange ; is 123 feet long, 36 feet wide, and in the
centre of the roof 25 feet higli ; has an open passage, aver-
aging 8 feet in width, at the two ends and at the back ;
has three entrances open from Albert Square, one at
each end of the market and one in the centre ; and was
opened for business in the summer of 1882. The Kinnaird
Hall is on the S side of I<ank Street ; was erected in
1856-58 after designs by Charles Edward, of Dundee ;
contains a hall 130 feet long, 60 wide, and 40 high,
capable of accommodating from 2500 to 3000 persons ;
has a fine open roof supported by iron girders, and the
side walls are tastefully decorated ; and has a fine organ,
built by Messrs Fosters & Andrews, of Hull, and in-
augurated on Oct. 5, 1865. The Volunteer Drill Hall,
on the N side of West Bell Street, is a plain brick build-
ing of ample proportions ; is 160 feet in length, including
one gallery, 80 feet in breadth, and 42 feet in height
DUNDEE
to the apex of the roof; and was erected in 1867,
mainly by means of subscriptious among the friends of
the volunteer movement. The other public halls are —
Albion, Overgate ; Ancient Mason Lodge, High Street ;
Arcade, Arcade Buildings ; Buchan's, Bank Street ;
Camperdown, Barrack Street ; Cutlers', Murraygate ;
Dimdee, Barrack Street ; Forfar and Kincardine JIason
Lodge, Meadow Street ; Good Templars', Reform Street ;
Gray's Assembly Rooms, Perth Road ; Lai'cli Street ;
Operative Mason Lodge, Overgate ; Operative Tailors,
Overgate ; Panmure, Bain Square ; Plasterers', Tally
Street ; Smellie's, Barrack Street ; Strathmore, Sea
WjTid, iSTethergate ; Thistle, Union Street ; Trades',
King's Road ; Victoria, Victoria Road ; Wellgate ; and
"Wright's, Key's Close, Nethergate.
Three parish churches under one roof — called vari-
ously St Mary's, St Paul's, and St Clement's ; the East,
the South, and the "West ; the Old, the New, and the
Steeple — stand between Overgate and Nethergate, near
the "W end of High Street ; are adjoined, at their western
extremity, by a massive ancient tower 156 feet high ;
and form a cathedral-looking structure, both historically
interesting and scenically prominent and imposing. The
pile has for ages been popularly called tlie to^^•n churches
and the tower ; and it is conspicuous at once as visibly
connecting the town with antiquit}-, as bulking largely
among its j^ublic edifices, and as constituting the most
distinctive feature in its burghal landscape. "Whether
seen in full front, or seen through a vista from any part
of the to\vn's interior, the tower looms largely in the
view, looking the impersonation of Time casting its
gloom upon the evanescent scenes around ; or se<?n from
any point or distance in the environs or in the circum-
jacent county, whether from the E or fi'om the "W or
from the S, the tower lifts its grand bold summit high
above the undulating surface of a sea of roofs, and sug-
gests thoughts of many generations who have spent
their ephemeral life beneath its shadow. The churches
oi'iginated in a chapel founded somewhere between 1196
and 1200 by Prince David, Earl of Huntingdon, on
gi'ound then beyond the limits of the town, and long
known as the ' Kirk in the Field ; ' they grew, bj^ re-
construction of the chapel and by successive extensions,
into a gi'eat cruciform edifice 174 feet long, -with a choir
95 feet long, 29 broad, and 54 high ; they comprised,
besides three churches of the same names as the present
three, a fourth one, called variously St John's, the
North, and the Cross ; they suffered damage from the
English, before the national Union, to an extent which
required St Clement's to be entirely rebuilt in 1789 ;
the)' were almost totally destroyed b)* accidental fire in
Jan. 1841 ; they were partly restored, but mainly reno-
vated, in periods thence till 1847, after designs by
Messrs Bmm & Bryce, of Edinburgh, at a cost of £11,135;
they retain the crucial form of the original structures,
with the choir or chancel for St Mary's, the transept
for St Paul's, and the nave for St Clement's ; and they
are in a laudable variety of the Decorated Pointed style.
St Mary's and St Paul's were entirely rebuilt, and the
former has a very fine stained-glass window ; but St
Clement's was merely restored, and is an extremely
plain portion of the pUe. The tower, which has already
been noticed, is the only part of the early pUe now
standing.
St John's parish church, formerly called also the
North or Cross Church, ceased at the burning of the
town churches in 1841 to stand conjunct with St ilary's,
St Paul's, and St Clement's, and is now an edifice in
South Tay Street, formerly used as a Gaelic church. St
Andrew's Church, on the N side of the Cowgate, is now
the oldest established church in the town ; was origin-
ally built in 1772 by means of voluntary subscriptions
by the kirk-session and trades of that i)eriod, and con-
tinued to be owned and managed by them as a pro-
prietary body until 1872, when the congregation
obtained the entire management and control of the
church, and of the property connected with it ; was
endowed in the following year, and put on the footing
of one of the parochial charges of the Church of
27
DUNDEE
Scotland ; is a plain building with a handsome spire,
which rises to an altitude of 1-39 feet, and contains a set
of fine musical bells ; has undergone repeated renova-
tions, the most recent being in 1874, when extensive
alterations, both internally and externally, were made
ui<on it, costing about £2000. Chapelshade Church, in
Constitution Road, is a large, plain-looking building
^vith about 1200 sittings ; was erected into a parish
church in 1872, with a suitable district attached. St
David's Church stands in North Tay Street ; Avas
originally an Independent chapel, built in 1800 ; passed
by sale to the Church of Scotland in 1823 ; is exteriorly
a very plain edifice, but interiorly handsome ; and con-
tains neaid}' 2000 sittings. "Wallaceto^vn Church was
opened in May 1840, and in March 1874 was erected
into a parish quoad sacra. St Mark's stands in Perth
Road ; was built in 1869, after designs by Pilkington
and Bell, at a cost of £6000 ; and is highly ornamental.
St Enoch's, in Nethergate, was originally a Free church,
erected in 1873, standing on the street line adjoined by
other buildings ; has a highlj' effective character ; and
was erected into a parish church in March 1876.
Rosebank Church, in Constitution Street, was erected
as a mission station in 1872 at a cost of nearly £2000 ;
is a Gothic structure in the Early Church form, with
about 600 sittings ; and in Jan. 1875 was erected into a
parish church. St Matthew's, in the Ferry Road, is in
the Early English Gothic style, with transepts ; stands
in a district inhabited chiefly by the poor and working-
classes ; and was built in 1875, as a chapel of ease, at a
cost of about £3400. Clepington Church is in the
Early English style ; was the last of five churches built
under a scheme for providing additional accommodation
for members of the Church of Scotland in Dundee ; and
was opened on Jan. 16, 1881. St Paul's Free Church,
in Nethergate, was built in 1852, after designs by
Charles "Wilson, of Glasgow, at a cost of about £5000 ;
is a cruciform structure in the Early Pointed style ; and
has a finely proportioned spire 167 feet high. St Peter's
Free Church, in St Peter Street, was built in 1836 ; is
a plain structure, \\-ith a neat spire containing a peal of
bells rung by water power ; and was the scene of the
ministry of the lamented M'Cheyne. The M'Che}'ne
]\Iemorial Church, in Perth Road, was built in 1871
after designs by Pilkington & Bell, and is an edifice
tastefully and elaborately ornate. Chapelshade, Wal-
lacetown, Dudhope, Chalmers, Wellgate, "Willison, and
the Hig"!! Free churches are all tasteful edifices ; but
St Andrew's, St David's, St John's, Hilltown, Bonnet-
hill, and Ogilvie Free churches are remarkably plain
structures. The Bell Street U.P. Church is a massive,
elegant, and spacious edifice. School "Wynd Church,
known also as George's Chapel, in Lindsay Street,
erected in 1825, was for 42 years the scene of the pas-
toral labours of George Gilfillan. The Dudhope Road
U.P. Church superseded a previous one in Temple Lane ;
was built in 1870 after designs by Pilkington & Bell ;
and is a handsome structure. Tlie Tay Square, Cowgate
or "Wishart, James', as well as those in Buttcrburn,
Victoria Street, and Ryehill, are internally comfortable,
but externally plain. The GUfillan Memorial Church,
formed of adherents of the Rev. David Macrae,
deposed from the ministry of the U.P. Church
in 1879, and who number over 1300, temporarily
worship in the Kinnaird Hall. The Reformed Pres-
byterian Church and the Original Secession churches,
are small but substantial buildings. Of the Con-
gregationalist places of worship the oldest is "Ward
Chapel in Constitution Road ; was built in 1833
after designs by Jlr Smith, of Dundee ; and is a beautiful
edifice in the Second Pointed style. Panmure Street
Chapel was built in 1855 after designs by Mr Bryce, of
Edinburgh, and is a i)icturesque structure with a boldly
traced circular window and two octagonal towers.
Castle Street, Lindsay Street, Princes Street, and Rus-
sell Congregational chapels are all rcsjicctable. The
old Scotch Independent Chapel, in Euclid Street, was
built after designs by Mr Maclaren, of Dundee, and is a
handsome edifice. Trinity and St James's Evangelical
417
DUNDEE
Union chapels are plain but comfortable buildings.
Baptist chapels are in Rattraj- Street and in Long Wynd,
the former being erected in 1878 in place of a chapel in
Meadowside that had to be removed to make way for the
town improvements. The Catholic Apostolic Church,
at the corner of Constitution Road and Dudhope Cres-
cent Road, is a very handsome edifice, and is divided
into nave and aisles, the latter being lighted by two
light ^vindows, and the nave from a clerestorj'. Wcs-
leyan Methodist chapels are iu Ward Road and Welling-
ton Street ; both are neat structures ; and the latter was
built in 1869 after designs by Alexander Johnston, of
Dundee. The Unitarian Christian Chapel, in Constitu-
tion Road, was built in 1870, also after designs by
Alexander Johnston. St Paul's Episcopalian Church,
at the top of Seagate, was built in 1852-55, after designs
by Sir Gilbert Scott, at a cost of £13,000 ; is in the
Second Pointed style, of crucial form, with nave, aisles,
transepts, chancel, and octagonal apse ; has both a noble
exterior and a very beautiful interior ; and is surmounted,
at its W end, by a tower and spire rising to the height
of 220 feet, and figuring conspicuously in almost every
view of the town. St Mary Magdalene's Episcopalian
Church, in Blinshall Street, is a recent edifice in similar
Et3'le to St Paul's Episcopalian Church but of smaller
size, and erected at about one-fifth of the cost. St
Salvador's Episcopalian Church, in Clepington, also is a
recent erection. The Catholic Apostolic Church, in
Constitution Road, was built in 1867 ; is a large and
handsome edifice in the Pointed style ; and has a very
tastefully decorated interior. St Andrew's Roman
Catholic Church, in Nethergate, was built in 1836 ; is
an elegant edifice in the Pointed stjde, Anth a beautiful
interior ; and contains 1200 sittings. St Mary's Roman
Catholic Church, at Forebank in Hilltown, was built in
1851 ; has a plain 'exterior in Anglo-Saxon style and a very
striking and gorgeous interior; and contains 2500 sit-
tings. St Joseph's Roman Catholic Chapel, in Wilkie's
Lane, was built in 1872-74 at a cost of about £5000 ; is
a cruciform structure 147^ feet in length from N to S, and
40 in width in both nave and transepts ; and contains
1200 sittings. The Glassite Meeting House, on the jST
side of King Street, is an octagonal-shaped building,
having a very plain appearance. Salem Cliapel, in Con-
stitution Road, erected in 1872, is a neat specimen of
Gothic architecture.
The Howff or old burying-ground lies off Barrack
Sti-eet ; superseded the three ancient burying-groimds of
St Paul, St Roque, and St Clement, all now quite extinct ;
was formed, about 1567, in what had been the garden of
the Greyfriars' Monastery ; became so crowded and in-
sanitory as to be closed by order of the Privy Council in
1858 ; and equals or surpasses every other old burying-
ground in Scotland, not excepting that of the Edinburgh
Greyfriars, in the number and variety of its interesting
old monuments. The burying-ground, on the W side
of Constitution Road, was opened in 1836 ; is tastefully
laid out in mounds and walks ; but, like the Howff,
is now closed against interments. The Western Ceme-
tery, on the N side of Perth Road, was opened in 1845 ;
comprises six acres, beautifully laid out in compartments
and promenades ; has a very grand gateway ; and con-
tains a monument to the poet William Thorn, who
died in Dundee in 1848. The Eastern Necropolis, on
the N side of Arbroath Road, aljout 2 miles from High
Street, was opened in 1862 ; is laid out with great taste
and beauty in serpentine walks ; and has an admirably
designed gateway. A project for a Roman Catholic
cemetery was started about 1860, and won some contri-
butions, but fell to the ground. Balgay Cemetery,
which occupies the western portion of Balgay Hill, is
very tastefully laid out.
The I'axter Park, at the north-eastern extremity of
the town, is so named from having been the gift of the
late Sir David Baxter and his two sisters ; is about 38
acres in extent, and cost the donors nearly £40,000, in
addition to which they gave a sum of £10,000 for the
maintenance of the park in all time coming; and is well
laid out, with a pavilion in the centre of the terrace in
il8
DUNDEE
which is a marble statue of Sir David Baxter, erected
by public subscription. Balgay Hill, to the westward
of the town, was acquired by the police commissioners
of the burgh as a place of public recreation in 1871 ;
covers 60 acres of ground, a portion of which has been
laid out as a cemetery ; enjoys the advantage of hav-
ing been previously beautifully wooded ; commands a
gorgeous view over all the lower Tay and the Carse of
GoAvrie, with their periphery of hills and moimtains ; is
encircled with a drive 25 feet wide, and intersected with
umbrageous drives and walks, looking like well-shaded
avenues ; has its main approach on the S, from Black-
ness Road, through a handsome entrance-lodge in the
Scottish Baronial style ; and has two other approaches,
respectively on the W from Hillside and on the N from
the Ancrum Road. The cemetery and the park jointly
cost about £13,000, and were opened by the late Earl of
Dalhousie, amid gi-eat public demonstrations, in Sept.
1871. In May 1882, Sir John Ogilvy, who for many
years was one of the Parliamentary representatives of
Dundee, made a gift to the town of his rights in the
Fair Muir, a field about 12 acres iu extent, Ijing to the
N of the town, which has now been added to the
parks available for purposes of public recreation.
Dimdee Law, which stands to the N of the town,
has also been acquired by the police commissioners for
use as a public pleasure-ground. It rises gently to an
elevation of 571 feet above sea-level, and culminates in
a round, green summit, the prospect from which is far-
reaching and picturesque. The slopes around the Law,
where not built upon, are cultivated. On the summit
are the vestiges of a fortification, said to have been
erected by Edward I. The Magdalene Green is an open
grassy slope, which adjoins the river in the neighbour-
hood of the N end of the Tay Bridge, and is famous in
local history for the large public gatherings which have
taken place upon it in times of political agitation. The
esplanade, adjoining the Magdalene Green, is a splendid
marine parade, extending to the Craig Pier ; was con-
structed at the joint expense of the Caledonian and
North British Railway Companies, the harbour trustees,
and the town ; and was opened in July 1875. The
Barrack Park, a spacious piece of ground above the
barracks, is leased from the government by the corpora-
tion as a place of public recreation. The Bleaching
Green is to the E of the Barrack Park, and whilst prin-
cipally used as an adjunct to the public washing-house
that stands in the centre, is also available to the public
for recreative purposes.
The harbour extends from Craig Pier on the W, nearly
opposite Union Street, to Carolina Port on the E ; lies
almost all, like the harbours of Greenock and Liverpool,
■vvithin the line of low-water mark ; offers commodious
ingress in very reduced states of the tide ; and is one of
the finest, safest, and most convenient harbours in
Great Britain ; yet, prior to 1815, had no better accom-
modations for shipping than a small pier and a few ill-
constructed erections, which could not be reached by
vessels of any considerable draught. Between 1815 and
1830, at an aggi-egate cost of £162,800, a wet-dock, with
a graving-dock attached to it, was constructed, the tide
harbour was deepenad and extended, sea-walls and ad-
ditional quays were built, and various other improve-
ments were made. The wet-dock then constructed beai-s
the name of King William's Dock, covers an area of 6J
acres, and has its adjoining graving-dock in correspond-
ing proportion. A second wet-dock was formed subse-
quent to 1830, bears the name of Earl Grey's Dock, and
covers 5J acres. Two other wet-docks, furtlicr to the
E, were partially formed in 1863-65 and completed in
1873-75 ; bear the names of Camperdown Dock and
Victoria Dock; cover respectively 8h and 10;^ acres;
admit vessels drawing 20 feet at high water of spring
tides, and vessels drawing 15i feet at high water of neap
tides ; and are connected with a new graving-dock for
the largest class of vessels. A stupendous crane, by
which eight men easily lift a weight of 30 tons, is on
the quay of Earl Grey's Dock ; a caisson, on a new and
peculiar principle, and working with great facility and
DUNDEE
ease, is at the entrance of Camperdown Dock ; and the
great outer sea-wall extends considerably to the E and
has a skilful structure and a massive appearance. All
the works formed from 1815 till 1875 are considerably
•within the range of high-water mark, leaving an im-
portant space of ground between them and the town to
be occupied as the site of buildings, and as a continua-
tion of Dock Street ; and parts of them are also within
low-water mark, leaving even there, between the wet-
docks and the sea, a space for warehouses and shipbuild-
ing yards. The docks are accessible, in various direc-
tions, by spacious streets or roads ; and have adaptations,
in every way, to secure the speedy and effective loading
and unloading of any number of vessels which they may
contain. The Camperdown and Victoria Docks lie the
furthest to the E, and are used mainly, or almost entu-eh',
by the vessels of largest burden ; while the other docks
have less depth of water, and are used by middle-class
and smaller vessels. By an act of parliament, passed
in June 1830, the management of the harbom- was
transferred from the commissioners appointed under a
previous statute to a board of trustees, elected annually ;
and by "a subsequent act, obtained in the year 1869, the
constitution of this trust was changed, and the repre-
sentation enlarged. Previously, the board consisted of
21 members ; but the recognition of the Chamber of
Commerce, shipowners, and harbour and municipal
ratepayers as elective bodies, increased it to 32. Seven
members have seats coi officio — the provost, 4 bailies,
the dean of guild, and the box-master of the seamen
fraternity ; the county elects 4, the guildry 6, the Nine
Trades 3, the Three Trades 1, the chamber of commerce
3, the shipowners 3, the harbour ratepayers 3, and the
municipal ratepayers 2. Shipo-miers are cjualified as
electors who possess 100 tons of shipping ; and the har-
bour ratepayers, before being entitled to vote, must show
that they have paid £10 of rates in respect of vessels
or goods. The county choose their representatives at
the Michaelmas meeting in October, and the others are
elected in the beginning of November. The trustees of
the harbour are thus in all respects a thoroughly popular
body, elected by the parliamentary constituency and
others who have the deepest interest in the right manage-
ment of the harbour. Of late years, the powers of the
trust have been greatly increased, and their jurisdiction
has been correspondingly extended. In 1873, they
acquired the management and working of the Tay
Ferries from the Caledonian Railway Company, upon
payment of a sum of £20,000 — the purchase involving
an outlay altogether of £35,000 ; and in 1875, they
entered into an aiTangement with the seamen fraternity
for the transference of the lighting and buoying of the
river from that body to the trust. The compensation
paid to the fratei'nity was a sum of £15,000, besides
relieving them of a debt of £4060 due to the public
works loan commissioners. This arrangement was
sanctioned by an act of parliament passed in the same
year. This act was a consolidated measure, and repealed
all previous legislation subsequent to the constitution of
the trust, Avith the exception of the acts regulating the
Tay Ferries. In this consolidated act, however — which
may, indeed, be said to be the Magna Charta of the
port of Dundee — all the previous powers and privileges
of the board were retained, while additional ones were
conferred, and the trustees were declared to be the con-
servators of the river Tay and estuary. In the act of 6
and 7 Vict., chap. 83, provision was made for the gradual
reduction and extinction of the debt, by which the credit
of the harbour has been raised, and a large reduction
obtained in the rate of interest. Compared financially
with any other harbour in the kingdom, that of Dundee
may be said to stand pre-eminent ; for while the revenue
has more than doubled in tlic last 20 years, the debt,
notwithstanding tlie gigantic works tliat have been
undertaken, remains about the same. The revenue for
1881 amounted to £50,163. The whole of the moneys
levied or leviable b)' the trustees under their different
harbour acts are exclusively applied to the maintenance
and extension of the harbour and its works ; and the
DUNDEE
surplus of the revenue over the expenditure is devoted
to paying a portion of the new works rather than bor-
rowing the whole sum. The gross cost of the harbour,
in 1881, was £844,957, and the debt £349,621 ; and
the whole amount has been borrowed at 4 per cent. So
well have tlie affairs of the harbour been managed, that,
since the year 1815, surpluses to no less a sum than
£278,000 have been ajiplied to the extinction of debt.
The accounts of the trustees are made up annually, and
audited by a qualified person named by the sheriff of
the county ; and when so audited, an abstract of the
accounts is printed and circulated. The following table
shows the progressive state of the finances of the Dun-
dee harbour trust, being the amount of revenue and ex-
penditure in the various years ending May 31, with the
amount of debt at date : —
Year.
Revenue.
Expenditure.
Debt.
1S54
£23,428
£19,779
£189,398
1S60
24,677
20,446
164,062
1865
29,879
24,679
210,808
1870
33,502
24,813
190,232
1871
40,638
25,432
194,073
1872
43,915
31,585
189,699
1873
41,316
32,967
237,308
1874
53,396
34,839
275,583
1875
45,233
39,794
318,367
1876
45,282
38,947
342,320
1877
50,751
42,871
350,405
1878
51,339
43,890
352,148
1879
46,906
46,308
360,183
1880
48,533
44,143
360,494
1881
50,163
45,533
349,621
Attempts have from time to time been made to esta-
blish a college in Dundee ; but these all failed until Miss
Baxter, sister of the late Sir David Baxter, and Dr J.
B. Baxter, for upwards of fifty years Procurator-Fiscal
for Dundee, took the matter in hand. In Feb. 1882,
the details of a scheme which had previously been an-
nounced were made public. It was then stated that
Miss Baxter and Dr Baxter had executed a deed of trust
providing a simi of £140,000 for the foundation of the
college. For £35,000 of this sum St John's Free Church,
with the dwelling-houses fronting the Nethergate be-
tween Small's Wyud and Park Place, had been obtained,
and at little expense could be converted into classrooms ;
while £100,000 was set apart as an endowment for
salaries to professors and other charges, the income
being about £4000 annually. The governing body had
thus from the beginning a larger revenue than the
governors of Owen's College, Manchester, whose endow-
ment was £90,000, and for whom no site or buildings
were provided. The governing body is divided into
three branches — the Governors, the Council, and the
Education Board. The Governors, who are supreme in
the management, are all subscribers ; the Lord-Lieu-
tenant and Convener of the county of Forfar ; the
members of Parliament for the county and burghs ; the
Sheriff of the county ; the Dean of Guild of Dundee ; a
representative from the Dundee Chamber of Commerce ;
one from the High School Directors ; and one from the
Committee of the Free Library. The Council, which is
the managing body of the College, consists of 18 mem-
bers, 9 of whom are elected by the Governors. The ex
officio members are the Provost of Dundee ; the Sheriff-
Substitutes of Dundee and at Forfar ; the members of
Parliament for Dundee ; one member elected by Owen's
College, Manchester ; one by the Lord President of the
Privy Council or the Minister of Education ; and one
by the Principal and Professors of the College. The
Education Board consists of the Principal and Professors,
under the direction of the Council and Governors. The
College begins its work with Chairs for Natural History
and Mathematics, Cliemistry, Classics and History, and
English Literature and Language. The High School
stands at the N end of Reform Street, looking down
along its area, and facing the Albert Institute ; super-
seded an English school, a grammar school, and an
academy, dating from respectively the 13th century, the
16th ceutuiy, and the latter part of the 18th century ;
419
DUNDEE
was built in 1833, after designs by ilr Angus, at a cost of
more than £10,000 ; is in the Doric style, ^rith a portico
of eight fluted columns, copied from the Parthenon of
Athens ; contains a science room, measuring 42 feet by
40, a museum room of the same dimensions, another
room measuring 57 feet by 30, and a total of 14 class-
rooms ; has a gravel pla3-ground of about an acre in
extent ; is conducted by a rector, an English master, a
■\vriting and arithmetic master, a comnnrcial master, a
mathematical master, a classical master, a French master,
a German master, and a master of science and art ; alYords
incomes to its masters ranging from £139 to £480 ; and
is governed by a Board of Directors, one-half of whom
are elected by the annual subscribers to the institution,
and the other half by the Town Council. When the
School-Board was formed in Dundee, an attempt was
made, but unsuccessfully, to transfer the management
of the institution to that body, on the ground that it
was a bm-gh school. The proposal was revived in 1880,
and expensive litigation was threatened, when the diffi-
culty was happily solved by the ofler of Sir William
Harris, a local philanthropist, to give £20,000 towards
the better endowment of the High School, and £10,000
to the School-Board for the erection of a secondary
school, on condition that the School-Board agreed to
the continuance of the High School under the existing
management — which ofier was joyfully accepted by all
the parties interested. During the period that the
School-Board has been established in Dundee, it has
vigorously carried out the Education Act for the ele-
mentary education of the people, and a number of new
and admirably constructed and equipped schools have
been opened by them. The school accommodation re-
qiured was supplied by a sum of £60,000, borrowed from
the Public Works Loan Commissioners, at a low rate of
interest, and on a scale of repayment spread over forty
years. The income for 1880 was £5498, and the expen-
diture £5588 ; in 1881 the income was £5697, and the
expenditure £5575. The assessment imposed by the
Board has varied from Id. in 1874 to 3d. in 1877. Pri-
vate schools are numerous, various, and generally good ;
some of high mark for polite education, many of ordi-
nary range for the common branches, a few of special
adaptation for the children of certain classes or condi-
tions of the community. In 1861 a Working Men's
College was commenced in Dundee ; but, after two
years' working, the support given was so small that it
nad to be discontinued. The Young Men's Christian
Association, in Constitution Koad, has a handsome and
commodious buiWing for its various purposes, including
a splendid reading-room, well supplied with newspapers
and periodicals ; classrooms for young men engaged in
handicrafts during the day, where instruction is" given
in those higher departments of education likely to prove
of practical value to them in their several occupations.
Dundee has of late years made a great advance in the
cultivation of music, both vocal and instrumental ; and
for cultured musical talent it will bear comparison with
any other town in Scotland. The late Mr John Curwen,
President of the Tonic Sol-Fa College in London, at a
musical demonstration held in the Kinnaird Hall on 30
March 1880 (witlrin two montlis of his death), com-
plimented Dundee by saying that it had more well-
taught singing and more well-trained children, in pro-
portion to its population, than any other town he
knew. To Dundee also belongs the honour of having
introduced the novelty of giving a highly-successful
rendering of Handel's Afcssiah by children, which has
been performed in several of the largest towns in Scot-
land by a imrty of youthful choristers trained by Mr
Frank Sharp. Dundee now possesses a large number
of musical associations, both vocal and instrumental,
and concerts are now periodically given, at which clas-
sical music is interpreted by the leading vocalists and
instrumentalists in the country.
The Morgan Hospital occupies a fine site at the
junction of the Forfar and Brechin roads, immediately
N of Baxter Park ; sprang from a bequest of £70,000 by
John Morgan, a native of Dundee, who amassed a large
420
DUNDEE
fortune in India ; was, subsequent to considerable liti-
gation, erected in 1863-66 after designs by Peddie and
Kinncar, of Edinburgh ; is in the Scottish Baronial style,
with four facades, enclosing an oblong court 125 feet by
50 ; has a main front 183 feet long, surmounted at the
centre by a lofty turreted tower ; cost, for its erection,
about £18,000 ; is surrounded by an extensive play-
ground ; and gives board and education, somewhat after
the manner of Heriot's Hospital in Edinburgh, to about
60 boys, sons of respectable parents, belonging to Dun-
dee and other towns of Forfarshire. The Industrial
Schools stand in Ward Road, in front of the new Court-
houses ; were erected in 1856 after designs by Mr
Charles Edward ; are in the Early English style, both
pleasing and commodious ; were originally occupied by
both boys and girls, but latterly have been occupied by
girls only. For the boys a new and additional institu-
tion was, in 1878, erected at Baldovan, about 3 miles N
from Dundee, on a site, 13 acres in extent, feued from
Sir John Ogilvy, where a handsome building in the
Gothic style, two stories high and 180 feet in length, was
provided. In connection with the Industrial Schools, a
Home for Apprentice Boys was opened in Ward Road on
23 Nov. 1881, in which accommodation is provided for
20 boys who had left the institution, and were serving
apprenticeships to various trades in Dundee. In 1881
there were 195 boys and 85 girls in the Industrial
Schools. The Royal Orphan Institution stands in Ferry
Road, about \l mile from High Street ; superseded an
old building, amidst crowded tenements, in Small's
Wjmd ; was erected in 1870 after a design by Mr W.
Chalmers, Broughty Ferry ; is a large and handsome
building, well adapted to its special benevolent pur-
poses ; and in 1881 the inmates were 27 boys and 28
girls, while the revenue for the year amounted to £1385
and the expenditure to £1233. The Mars training-ship
lies anchored in the Tay, about a mile to the W of
Newport ; is used for the board, maintenance, educa-
tion, and training of boys in the duties of a seafaring
life ; was originally a two-decked 80-gun line-of-battle
shiji, subsequently converted into a screw of 400 horse-
power, and subsequently adapted, at a cost of over
£4000, into a training-ship ; in 1881 had 380 boys on
board, while the receipts for the year amounted to
£6979 and the expenditure to £6961 ; and in June 1881
received a new tender, named the Francis MolUson, to
replace the Lightning, which had become unseaworthy.
The Institution for the Blind originated in 1865, by the
purchase of Danfield House by Mr and Mrs Francis
Mollison ; since then the premises have been from time
to time enlarged, and accommodation is now provided
for both males and females, where the blind can carry
on their work in comfort, and earn their own living.
The Deaf and Dumb Institution stands in Lochee Road,
on a commanding and salubrious site ; was opened on
5 Sept. 1870, and superseded a much smaller building
in the Bucklemaker Wynd ; and provides an excellent
training for the unfortunate class for whom it was de-
signed. The Old Infirmary stood in King Street, on an
elevated site sloping to the S, well detached from other
buildings ; was erected in 1798 ; was subsequently used
as a female lodging-house ; and latterly was converted
into a Board school. The New Infirmary occupies a
commanding site on the rising-ground immediately above
the Barracks, with a clear exposure to the S ; was erected
in 1852-54, after designs by Messrs Coe & Godwin, of
London, at a cost of about £15,000 ; is a magnificent
edifice in the Tudor style ; has a S frontage 350 feet in
length, with two wings running back each 160 feet, and
a projection backward from the middle ; exhibits, in the
centre of its frontage, a projecting portion loftier than
the rest, flanked with four-story battlemented turrets, and
surmounted by a pyramidal crown with lantern finial ;
is arranged internally on the corridor system, in a man-
ner very airy and eminently convenient ; was originally
constructed to accommodate 220 ])aticnts under ordinary
circumstances, but has had additions since made so as
to accommodate about 400 persons. The following tablo
shows the number of patients, together with the amouu*
DUNDEE
DUNDEE
«f the ordinary income and expenditure, for a series of
years : —
Year.
Ko. of
Patients.
Income.
Expenditure. 1
1855-56
903
£1708
£2050
X860-61
1477
2210
2744
lSe3-64
2019
3005
2922
1S66-67
2505
4648
5849
1S73-74
1830
5387
5810
1874-75
1694
5908
5620
1875-76
1356
6391
6430
187S-79
1723
6225
6440
1S79-S0
1720
6110
6443
1850-Sl
1672
6257
5809
A Convalescent House, for the reception of females
recovering from illness or accidents, was opened in Nov.
1860 in a house in Union Place, being that which was
at one time tenanted by the late Rev. R. M. M'Cheyne;
but was removed in June 1870 to larger ])remises in
William Street, Forebank. A second institution of this
nature, for both male and female patients, was erected
in 1877 in the \dcinity of Broughty Ferry ; stands next
the cemetery, on the E, in a park of some 6 or 7 acres ;
was designed by Mr James M'Laren, and has an impos-
ing appearance, its central tower rising as a landmark
for miles round ; had its funds supplied by the late Sir
David Baxter and his friends, and included, besides the
sum of £10,000 set apart for the building and furniture,
other £20,000 as an endowment for its maintenance ;
and accommodates 25 male and 25 female boarders.
The Roj-al Lunatic Asylum stands in the north-eastern
extremity of the town, upon an inclined plane consider-
ably higher than the level of the old streets, and com-
manding a fine view of the waters and shores of the
Tay ; was erected in 1820 ; and is a large and well-
arranged edifice, encircled ■with gardens and airing
grounds to the extent of more than 12 acres ; but latterly
had become utterly inadequate to the proper accommo-
dation of the increasing number of inmates, who on Jan.
9, 1882, were 318—126 males and 192 females. A new
asylum was therefore erected in 1879-82 at West Green,
about 5 miles from Dundee, providing accommodation
for 300 pjatients, the plans providing also for the erection
of a private asylum for 70 patients, a chapel, superin-
tendent's house, farm buildings, and lodges ; each
patient having for the single rooms, 1040 cubic feet
space, and for the dormitories, 780 cubic feet. The
front of the Asylum is to the S, and commands a splen-
did prospect of the Tay and the bordering counties, as
well as the German Ocean. It has turreted corners, and
over the roof in the centre is a fleche of timber. The
buildings altogether cost about £60,000, and- were occu-
pied in the summer of 1882. The Sailors' Home, in
Dock Street, formally opened on Dec. 16, 1881, by the
Earl of Dalhousie, was the result of a movement origi-
nated about two years previously ; is in the Elizabethan
style, 5 stories in height, with frontages to Dock Street
and Candle Lane, the elevation to Dock Street being
tastefully ornamented, and presenting a very handsome
appearance ; provides accommodation for 80 seamen,
besides a house for the superintendent ; has also a
chapel, seated for 240 persons, where divine service is
conducted every Sunday ; and cost altogether £12,000,
the whole of which was locally subscribed. The Curr
Night Refuge stands in West Bell Street, opposite the
burying-ground ; was erected, with the sum of £6000
set aside bj' the trustees of the late JIrs Curr of Rose-
ville, for the purpose ; is in the Elizabethan style, after
designs by Mr David Maclaren, not too elaborated with
decorations, but possessing a tasteful and pleasing ap-
pearance ; and was opened in the summer of 1882.
Other charitable institutions in the town are the Indigent
Sick Society, instituted in 1797 for affording aid to the
indigent and sick ; the Eye Institution, founded in
1836 for the benefit of those suffering from diseases of
the eye ; the Home for Fallen Women, founded in 1848
by Sir John and Lady Jane Ogilvy, for the reclamation
of females who have strayed from the paths of virtue ;
Baldovan Asylum for Imbecile Children, also esta-
blished by Sir John and Lady Ogilvy in 1855, and pro-
viding accommodation for about 50 inmates ; the Pri-
soners' Aid Society, established in 1872 for the correction
and reformation of ticket-of-leave persons and prisoners
discharged from gaol ; the Cabmen's Shelter, in South
Lindsay Street, immediately adjoining the Old Steeple,
erected in 1875 by public subscription for the benefit of
cabmen ; the Homaopatliic Dispensary, in South Tay
Street, opened in 1876 ; Harris's Charity, originated in
1874 in a gift of £10,000 from Mr Wm. Harris, the
interest of which is applied for the relief of those who
have seen better days ; the Sunday morning free break-
fasts to the poor, originated in 1875 ; the Dundee
Humane Society, for the purpose of rewarding those
who distinguish themselves by their courageous and
humane exertions in saving life, estalilished in 1865 ;
the Dundee Swimming Club and Humane Society,
formed in 1874, to encourage swimming in all its
branches, and to reward those persons who may be the
means of saving life ; the Clothing Society, conducted
by ladies, embraces all denominations, and is perfectly
unsectarian in its character. There is a local treasurer
for the Indigent Gentlewoman's Fund, for the relief of
ladies who, having been brought up genteelly, have
fallen into poverty through no fault of their own.
There are also local agencies for a number of metropoli-
tan and national charitable institutions.
Previous to the passing of the Reform Bill of 1832
Dundee united with the burghs of Perth, Cupar-Fife,
St Andrews, and Forfar in sending one representative to
parliament ; but when that measure became law it
elected a member of its own, and since 1868 it has had
two parliamentary representatives. A sheriff-substitute
for Dundee Avas first appointed in 1832, and since 1865
it has been the seat of a cu-euit court of justiciary. For
some years the police force was regulated by a statute
passed in 1837, which vested the management jointly
in the magisti'ates, and in a specially-elected body of
general commissioners. Subsequently, however, by the
adoption of the General Police Act of 1850, the whole
parliamentary area, including the populous district of
Lochee, and also the harbour of Dundee, were embraced
in the police boundaries. In Oct. 18S1, in consequence
of a disagreement respecting the sum to be paid by the
harbour trustees to the police commissioners for watching,
cleansing, and lighting the harbour, the trustees from
that date undertook the duty themselves. The Central
Police Ofiice is in AVest Bell Street ; and there are dis-
trict stations in Princes Street, Scouriugburn, Maxwell-
town, and South Road, Lochee. The force consists of —
1 superintendent, 2 lieutenants, 4 inspectors, 1 sanitary
inspector (who is also inspector of lodging-houses) and
7 assistants, 1 detective inspector and 6 detective officers,
1 inspector of markets and 1 assistant, 8 sergeants, and
about 140 constables. The prison, in West Bell Street,
was erected in 1837 at a cost of £26,000 ; had consider-
able additions made to it in 1844, in 1857, and again in
1872 ; but notwithstanding those extensions, the build-
ing has been officially condemned as too small for the
increasing criminal population of the town. For making
provision for the poor, Dundee and its suburbs used to
be divided into two districts — namely, the parish of
Dundee proper and the united jiarish of Lilf and Bcnvie
— each of which had its own house for the reception of
paupers, and its own funds, assessment, and board of
management ; but in 1879 the two districts were united
under one management, tlie two workhouses being re-
tained for the eastern and western districts respective!}-.
What used to be the Dundee Poorhouse is situated at
Maryfield, to the W of the Forfar Loan ; was erected in
1856 at a cost of £10,000, with accommodation for 300
inmates ; but was subsequently enlarged so as to receive
700 persons. What was the Lilf and Ben vie Poorhouse is
in the Blackness Road, was erected in 1864, and is
cajiable of accommodating upwards of 200 inmates. In
1S69 tlie waterworks of the Dundee Water Company
were transferred, by purchase, at an expense of fully
£5000, to the Corporation, by whom, as the Dundee
Water Commission, the water supply is now con-
421
DUNDEE
trolled. The water supply formerly came from ^loni-
kie, but in 1875 an adilitional source of supply from
the Loch of Lintrathen was made available, from
which about 4,000,000 gallons are daily brought into the
town's reservoirs. A gas company was first formed in
Dundee in 1825, a second in 1846 ; and in 1868 the
works and plant of both companies were acquired by a
mixed body, of whom the Coriwration formed the majo-
rity, and who now, as the Dundee Gas Commission,
supply the community with gas. The works are in East
Dock Street, and have been from time to time extended
to meet the increasing requirements of the town. In
Sept. 1881 a gasholder, the second largest in Scotland,
was brought into use, having cost upwards of £15,000.
In the parliamentary session of 1882 the Gas Commission
applied to parliament for a bill authorising them to
manufacture and supply the electric light. A commo-
dious and convenient cattle market, with .slaughter-
houses and other adjuncts, was provided in 1876 by the
police commissioners at Carolina Port, adjoining the
East Dock Street I'aihvay station, at a cost of about
£35,000. The extent of ground is about 6| acres, and
the frontage to the Ferry Road on the N, and Dock
Street on the S, is between 500 and 600 feet. The
Greenmarket — the open street between the foot of
Crichton Street and Dock Street — is where a large por-
tion of the marketing of the working-classes is conducted.
The Fish Market is held in an enclosure to the E of the
Greenmarket. The Arcade occupies a large plot of
ground lying between King Street and Victoria Road,
having a frontage to King Street on the S, Victoria
Road on the N, King's Road on the E, and Idvies and
Charles Streets on the W ; and was opened on Dec.
10, 1881. The Post Office, situated at the top of Reform
Street, contains all the departments of a head office,
^vith telegraph office attached, but is scarcely on a scale
or in a style commensurate with the to^vn's importance.
Postal receiving-houses, with money order and savings'
Ijank departments, are in King Street, Hilltowm, Perth
Road, Scouringburn, Princes Street, and Blackscroft.
Telephonic communication is provided by two separate
companies.
Dundee was the second town in Scotland to open a
Free Public Ijibrary, which it decided to do at a public
meeting held on Sept. 6, 1866, but the library itself was
not opened until July 1, 1869, and the reference depart-
ment three months afterwards. The success of the Free
Library was so great that ultimately arrangements were
made by which the Albert Institute directors conveyed
to the to^vn the ground necessary for the erection of
additional buildings to be occupied as a picture gallery
and museum, and also, as has already been stated, vested
the whole of the Albert Institute in the To^ra Council,
as trustees for carrying out the purposes for which the
institute was foumled. In 1873 a branch of the Lend-
ing Library was opened in Lochee ; but it was taken
advantage of to so small an extent, that it was discon-
tinued after a few months' trial, 'fhe museum occupies
the extreme E end of the Albert Institute buildings ;
was formally opened to the public on May 9, 1874 ;
contains a large number of geological, Ijotanical, and
natural history specimens, besides a splendid collection
of articles from the Arctic regions. The Picture Gallery
is enriched with some choice works of art, although the
collection is not nearly so large as it ought to be. An
annual Fine Art Exhibition is now held in the Albert
Institute buildings. Dundee was first provided with
])ulilic baths l)y a joint-stock com]any in 1848 ; but in
1871 they were acquired by the Corporation, and have
since been greatly extended and improved. The batlis
are situated on the West Protection "Wall, closely ad-
joining the river, so that an abundant water supply can
at all times be had. They include a handsome Turkish
bath, splendid .swimming ponds, and excellent plunge
baths. Dundee furnishes two contingents to the For-
farshire Rifle Volunteer Corps — the 1st Forfarsiiire, con-
sisting of 8 companies, with about 800 men of all ranks ;
and the 2d Forfar.shire (Dundee Highland), of 6 com-
jianies, with about 600 men of all ranks. It also fur-
422
DUNDEE
nislies a corps (the 4th) to the Forfarshire Artillery
Brigade. In the end of 1881 an attempt was made to
raise a brigade of Naval Artillery Volunteers ; but in
Jan. 1882, the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty
declined to sanction the undertaking, as a sufficient
number of volunteers had not come forward. Dmidee,
however, furnishes a larger contingent towards the Royal
Naval Reserve than any port in Scotland, and more than
any port in the kingdom in proportion to its seafaring
population. For their training the Unicorn, formerly
a double-decked frigate, has been specially fitted up,
and now lies moored in Earl Grey's Dock. The Savings'
Bank is situated in Euclid Street, nearly opposite Ward
Chapel; was originally established in 1815, but removed
to its present handsome quarters in 1867. The progi'ess
of the bank is shoAvn by the foUomng statemeiat of the
simi due to depositors during a series of years, ending
at Nov. 20 in each year: — 1860, £108,779; 1865,
£150,897 ; 1870, £256,400 ; 1875, £409,558 ; 1876,
£441,080; 1877, £471,660; 1878, £485,865; 1879,
£519,617 ; 1880, £566,608 ; 1881, £600,244. A work-
ing men's club, with suitable premises in South Tay
Street, was established in 1873 by the munificence of
Mr George Armitstead, one of the parliamentary re-
presentatives of the burgh, but after maintaining a
languishing existence was closed in Dec. 1881. The
theatre stands in Castle Street, was once elegant, but
became dingy and desolate, and although improved from
time to time, and excellently managed, is structurally
inadequate to the requirements of modern times. The
Dundee Music Hall, formerly the Exchange Room,
stands at the foot of Castle Street, the entertainment
offered being of the usual music hall description. A
circus, erected by the Brothers Cooke behind the
Queen's Hotel, Nethergate, was opened in Feb. 1878,
and is visited at occasional intervals b)' these well-
known equestrians. A circus was erected in East Dock
Street by Mr James Newsome in 1875, but was given up
in 1881. Dundee possesses a number of yachting and
rowing clubs ; has a fine skating pond at Stobsmuir ; an
open-air bathing pond at Buckingham Point, and an
open-air bathing association ; a chess club, founded in
1826 ; and several angling clubs, besides numerous
cricket and bowling clubs, and a snufl' and twopenny
whist club. Amongst its miscellaneous institutions are
a time gun, in the grounds attached to the barracks,
connected by an electric wire with the Observatory at
Greenwich, and fired daily at one o'clock ; and two Rus-
sian guns, captured from the Russians during the Russian
war, and placed in front of the Volunteer Drill Hall.
Dundee has three railway stations — one at the E end
of Dock Street, another at the W end, and a third the
Tay Bridge station — immediatel}' adjoining the Esplan-
ade. Attempts have frequently been made to secure a
commodious central station, but have always failed, and
the lamentable accident to the Tay Bridge seems to have
rendered the accomplishment of this object more remote
than ever. This bridge was one of the longest in the
world, its length, including the extension on the
northern shore, being 10,612 feet. This great length
was taken in 85 spans of varying width, the widest, of
which there were 11, being 245 feet. The level at the
shores was between 70 and 80 feet above the sea ; in the
middle it was 130 feet above high water, giving a clear
water-way of 88 feet at high-water mark. The platform
on the top of the bridge, which carried the single line
of rails, was only 15 feet wide, and, as seen from the
heights above Newport, was so narrow as to appear a
mere cable swung from shore to shore ; and seeing a
train puffing along for the first time is said to have
excited the same kind of nervousness felt by those who
watched Blondin crossing the Niagara. The bridge,
which was designed by Thomas Bouch (afterwards
knighted), cost £350,000, and was opened for traffic on
May 31, 1878. On the evening of Sunday, Dec. 28,
1879, during a severe storm, the whole of the high
central girders of the ])ridgo were blown down while
a passenger train was crossing from the S to the
N, and every individual in the ill-fated train perished.
DUNDEE
It is believed that nearly 90 persons thus lost their lives,
the bodies of only 46 of whom were afterwards recovered.
A sum of £6527 was raised by public subscription for
the relief of the sufferers, of which not quite £2000 was
expended in interim relief; and as the North British
British Railway Company settled all the claims of the
sufferers, the balance was returned to the subscribers.
A protracted inquiry was made into the disaster, which
showed that the bridge was badly designed, badly con-
structed, and badly maintained. After much delay,
plans for a new bridge, a little to the W of the former
structure, at a lower elevation and for a double line of
rails, were sanctioned by the Board of Trade, and the
work was begun in the spring of 1882, Mr W. H. Bar-
low, C.E., being the engineer. In 1873, powers wera
acquired by a private company for the construction of
street tramways, but the work was not then proceeded
with, and it was not until four years afterwards that
they were introduced by another company.
The Dundee Chamber of Commerce, formedin 1836, but
only obtaining its charter of incorporation in 1864, is now
a large and influential body, composed principally of
gentlemen engaged in the staple manufactures of the
town. A Horticultural Society has existed for many
years, and holds an annual exhibition at which prizes
are awarded for the best plants, cut flowers, fruit, and
vegetables. A Dog, Cat, and Poidtry Show existed for
three years, its last annual exhibition being in Nov.
1880. A Naturalists' Society was formed in 1872, which
has accommodation provided for it in one of the rooms
of the Albert Institute. There are also numerous pro-
vident, building, and insurance societies, and a number
of co-operative societies. The Dundee Temperance
Society was established in Jan. 1830 ; the Independent
Order of Good Templars was introduced in Sept. 1870 ;
the Women's Temperance Prayer Union was formed in
1874 ; and the Blue Ribbon Army was introduced by
Mr Francis Murphy, the apostle of temperance from
America, in Dec. 1881. There are also various muni-
cipal and political, as well as social and convivial, organi-
sations in the town. The newspapers are — the Dundee
Advertiser, published dailj'', as well as a bi-weekly
edition on Tuesdays and Fridays ; the Dundee Courier
and Argus, daily, also with bi-weekly issue on Tuesdays
and Fridays, entitled the Northern Warder ; the Even-
ing Telegraph, daily ; the People^s Journal, every
Saturday ; and the IVceJcly News, every Saturday. The
People's Friend, a Scottish literary miscellany, is pub-
lished every Wednesday ; and the Wizard of the North,
a comic journal, monthly.
The manufactures of the town exhibit a remarkable
history of failure, perseverance, and eventual success.
Coarse woollens, under the name of plaiding, dyed in
Holland, and exported throughout Europe ; bonnets, so
extensively manufactured as to employ a large propor-
tion of the population ; coloured sewing thread, made
by 7 different companies, maintaining 66 twisting-mills,
and employing 1340 spinners ; the tanning of leather,
in at least 9 tanyards, and to the annual value of
£14,200 ; glass, in 2 factories, one for window glass, the
other for bottle glass ; the spinning of cotton, vigorously
conducted, for a time, by 7 different companies ; the
refining of sugar, earned on in a large building in Sea-
gate ; these, and the making of buckles and other minor
manufactures, all flourished for a season, and terminated
in disaster and extinction, some of them leaving their
names on their localities, others leaving vestiges of their
factory walls as memorials of the instability of trade.
The staple trade for some time was in flax and linen ;
afterwards included hemp ; and of late years, with
rapid increase, has turned largely on jute. For many
years, with the view of encouraging the linen trade, a
bounty was paid by the Government on all linen
exported ; and in 1S32 — the last year that this l)ounty
was paid — the value of the linen sent out from Dundee
amounted to £600,000. The largest hemp and flax
establishment in the town is that of the Messrs Baxter
Brothers in Princes Street, which covers upwards of
nine acres of grounil. This firm employs upwards of
DUNDEE
4000 workpeople, and consumes 7000 tons of flax alone
per annum, besides a considerable quantity of hemp — a
([uantity exceeding what is worked up by any otlier
firm in the world. It is here that the greater part of
the ships' canvas for the British Royal Navy, and that
of the United States of America, is manufactured.
Jute, however, is now the staple trade of the town, its
development since the civil war in America having been
something marvellous, and almost fabulous fortunes
having been made by some of the larger manufacturers
engaged in it. Since 1874, however, the trade has been
in an unusually depressed state, mainly in consequence
of the number of jute factories that have been established
in other parts of the country, on the Continent, and in
Calcutta. The following is a return of the quantity of
jute imported during the last few years : — 1868, 58,474
tons; 1869, 82,379; 1870, 81,740; 1871, 102,844;
1872, 127,190; 1873, 143,150; 1874, 117,375; 1875,
112,350; 1876, 118,571; 1877, 107,616; 1878, 126,776;
1879, 151,291 ; 1880, 138,546. The jute used to be all
obtained from India, but latterly a portion has come
from Egypt ; was originally got through London and
Liverpool, but the greater part of it is now imported
direct from Calcutta.
The seal and whale fishing is also an important
industry in Dundee, about a dozen screw-steamers being
engaged in it, with varying success. Every ship has
from 70 to 90 of a crew, who have to be provisioned for
several months ; and to this outlay has to be added the
cost of repairing and refitting the vessels, which is some-
times a pretty heavy sum. When it is mentioned that
the capital invested in the whaling fleet represents a
total of about £200,000, some idea may be formed of its
magnitude. The value of the fisheries varies in different
seasons, but of late years it has been on the increase.
The average price obtained for seal skins may be put at
4s. 6d. each, and every ton of oil is worth about £35 ;
while, as regards the whale fishery, the price of the oil
obtained may be given at £40 per ton, and of bone at
£500 per ton, although it has been as high as £1000 per
ton in some years. Some of the vessels engaged in the
fishings belong to private individuals, and the others
to three joint-stock companies. The following is a
return of the fisheries for a series of years : —
Seal Fishing.
Whale Fishing.
Year.
Ships.
Seals.
Tons Oil.
Ships.
Tons Oil.
Tons Bone.
1865
4
63,000
730
7
630
30
1S66
7
58,000
690
11
340
IS
1867
11
56,000
640
11
20
—
1S6S
12
16,070
190
13
970
50
1869
11
45,600
460
10
140
7i
1870
9
90.450
870
6
760
40.1
1871
9
65,480
648
8
1156
61J
1872
11
40,621
429
10
1010
54
1873
11
25,594
265
10
1352
69
1874
11
46,252
577
9
1290
66i
1875
12
49,295
450
12
752
40
1876
11
53,776
578
13
891
44
1877
14
80,130
1129
14
893
44J
1878
13
94,161
1115
13
112
6
1879
15
92,400
1160
13
725
35i
1880
13
65,000
981
12
1084
56
1881
15
210,000
2654
11
514
25
The shipping and shipbuilding of the port have
increased very much of late years, and are now some-
thing considerable. The following table shows the
number of vessels, with their aggregate tonnage, be-
longing to the port in a series of years : —
Year.
Vessels.
Tonnage.
Year.
Vessels.
Tonnage.
1792
116
8,5.50
1872
179
53,279
1813
153
14,905
1873
167
50,579
1821
171
17,370
1874
173
55,994
1831
259
30,()54
1875
181
70,205
1841
389
54,292
1876
196
86, .545
1851
362
60,693
1877
202
92,273
1868
195
50,074
1873
204
94,323
1869
108
62,392
1879
197
93.712
1870
189
55,599
1880
196
a8,548
1871
191
54,863
1881
188
96,671
423
DUNDEE
The follo-sving is a statement of the number of vessels
that entered the harbour, and their aggregate tonnage,
for several j'ears: — 1878, 3676 vessels, 530,467 tonnage ;
1879, 2817, 503,840; 1880, 3016, 531,946; 1881, 2672,
555,303.
The following table shows the number of ships and
amount of tonnage launched and on hand at the end of
a series of vears : —
Launched.
On Hand.
Year.
Vessels.
Tonnage.
Vessels.
Tonnage.
1871
11
9,400
11
13,572
1S72
13
13,049
7
7,190
1S73
10
9,293
8
9,107
1874
11
11,165
11
10,540
1875
23
14,998
19
14,095
1876
23
15,356
15
11,720
1877
18
12,135
7
7,580
1878
12
11,121
11
9,980
1879
14
12,384
12
11,423
1880
15
15,621
7
14,925
1881
11
18,945
16
21,758
The engineering and iron-founding trades of the town
are also of considerable importance, the workers in iron
forming by far the largest class of male operatives in
Dundee. A considerable trade is also done in the manu-
facture of confectionery, marmalade, leather, boots and
shoes, and tobacco, as well as in the brewing of beer and
the grinding of flour.
Loehee forms a sort of outgrowth of Dundee, being
separated from the general body of the to^\^l by a very
circuitous and irregular road ; and, although now form-
ing part of the burgh, retains much of the village
character, having interests and requirements of its own ;
has two places of worship in connection with the
establishment — the old Chapel of Ease and St Luke's ;
a P>ee church, U. P. church, St Margaret's Episcopal
Church, St Clement's Roman Catholic Chapel, St Mary's
of the Immaculate Conception, and a Baptist chapel.
Wellburn Asylum, conducted under Roman Catholic
auspices, affords accommodation for 100 aged men, and
a similar number of old women. The Camperdo^vn
Linen Works, of Messrs Cox Brothers, are the largest of
the kind about Dundee, and give employment to a large
proportion of the inhabitants of Dundee.
The name Dundee was anciently written Donde,
Dondie, and Dondei ; and is supposed by some to be a
corruption of the Latin Dei Donum, signifying the ' hill
of God,' by others to be a variation of the Celtic Dun-
taw, signifying the 'hill of Tay.' The name Alec or
Alectum, signifying 'a handsome place,' is alleged to
have been jireviously used, but seems to have been
merely a poetical epithet applied to Hector Boece. The
town is said, by some old historians, to have been a
place of importance and strength at the time of the
Roman invasion under Agricola ; but it really does not
appear fairly on record till the year 834, and not very
authentically even then ; and, like all the other ancient
towns of Scotland, it suffered obscuration or obliteration
of its early history from destruction of public documents
by Edward L of England. Elpin, King of the Scots, is
said to have, in 834, made Dundee his headquarters in
warfare against Brude, King of the Picts, to have led
out from it an army of 20,000 against him to Dundee
Law, and to have there been discomfited, captured, and
beheaded. Malcolm IL, in 1010, concentrated his
forces in Dundee, and led them thence to his victory
over the Danish general at Barrie. Malcolm Ceannmor,
about 1071, as we have already noticed, erected in Dun-
dec a j)alace for his Queen Margaret ; and King Edgar,
in 1106, as also we previously stated, died in that
palace. David, Prince of Scotland, Earl of Huntingdon,
the hero of Sir Walter Scott's giapliic story of The
Talisman, landed at Dundee on liis return from the
crusades ; was met here, soon after his arrival, by his
brother William the Lyon ; received from William a gift
of the town, together with conferment on it of extended
I)rivileges ; and, in fulfilment of some vows which he had
made in the spirit of the period, erected in it, on tlie site
DUNDEE
of the present Town churches, a magnificent chapel. His
eldest daughter, mother of the Princess Devorgilla, and
grandmother of King John Baliol, was married at Dun-
dee, in 1209, to Alan. Lord of Galloway and Constable
of Scotland.
The town, at that time and onward to the Wars of
the Succession, was the most important one in the
kingdom, not even excepting Perth, Stirling, and Edin-
burgh, for at once wealth, population, and political
consequence ; it received confirmation of its immunities
and privileges from Alexander IIL ; and it, therefore,
was a prime mark for Edward L of England's arrows in
his usurpation of Scotland's rights. His forces came
against it in 1291, took possession of its castle, burned
or otherwise demolished its churches, sacked its private
houses, destroyed or carried off its records, and inflicted
ruthless barbarities on its inhabitants. Edward, himself,
entered it in 1296, and again in 1303 ; and, in the
latter year, subjected it once more to conflagration and
disaster. Sir William AVallace had attended its gram-
mar school when about 16 years of age ; he began his
public career by appearing in it amid the desolations
done by Edward, and killing the son of the English
governor who held its castle ; he laid siege to it, \vith
such forces as he could collect, in the summer of 1297 ;
he temporarily relinquished the siege, in result of in-
telligence which drew him off to Stirling to achieve his
great victory there ; he returned to Dundee to resume
the siege, immediately after his victory at Stirling ; he
promptly got possession of the town by unconditional
surrender ; and he received from the burgesses a hand-
some guerdon in money and arms. Its castle, soon
after Wallace's departure, was seized and garrisoned by
a partisan of Edward ; was speedily besieged again by
Wallace ; first in person, next through his lieutenant,
Alexander Scrymseour ; was pressed by the latter with
a force of 8000 men, and eventually reduced ; and was
ordered by Wallace to be demolished, that it might no
more afford foothold to invading armies. Scrymseour, in
reward of his bravery, was constituted by Wallace Con-
stable of Dundee ; and formed the source of a series of
hereditary constables, one of whom became Viscount
Dudhope. A great council, as we formerly noticed, was
held within the Greyfriars' Monastery, in 1309, to re-
cognise Robert Bruce as King of Scotland. The castle,
in 1312, was rebuilt and garrisoned by the English ; in
the same year was captured by Prince Edward, brother
of Robert Bruce ; in the same year was recaptured by
the English ; and, in the early part of 1313, was cap-
tured again by Prince Edward. Robert Bruce resided
in the town during part of 1314 ; and, while here, con-
ferred upon it some new important gifts. Richard II.
of England, in 1385, attacked the to^^•n and burned it.
James V. and his Queen, in 1528, attended by a
numerous train of prelates, nobles, and gentlemen, were
magnificently entertained in the town for six days.
Dundee was the first town in Scotland to receive,
broadly and demonstratively, the doctrines of the Re-
formation ; and it enjoyed, for a time, with impressive-
ness and in solemn circumstances, the ministry of the
Reformer, Wishart. Wishart began his ministry here
with public lectures on the Epistle to the Romans ; had
crowded and attentive audiences ; was temporarily
driven from the town at the instance of the Romish
authorities ; came back, four days afterwards, on learn-
ing that pestilential plague had struck it ; preached to
its terrified inhabitants, as we formerly noticed, from
the battlements of Cowgate Port ; and was instrumental
of so great and permanent spiritual benefit to it, as to
occasion it to bo afterwards called the Second Geneva.
An army of Henry VIII. of England, after the battle of
Pinkie in 1547, advanced to Dundee ; entered it with-
out opposition, such forces as could be raised in it
retiring at their approach ; began to fortify it with
defensive walls at its most accessible parts ; held posses-
sion for only eight days, in consequence of the rumoured
advance of French and other troops in the interest of
the Queen Regent ; and, on the eve of their departure,
demolished the fortifications which they had begiin to
DUNDEE
erect, rifled the town and set fire to its churclies and to
many of its liouses. The Queen Regent's troops entered
without resistance ; united with the townspeople in
quenching the confiagration which was going on ; and re-
constructed and extended the defensive fortifications. A
body of the townsmen, to the number of nearly 1000,
headed by their provost, Hallyburton, in 1559, hearing of
the hostile intentions of the Queen Regent, marched into
junction with the army of the Reformers, and contributed
largely to their victory at Perth. Queen Mary, during
her progress through Scotland, in 1565, spent two days
in Dundee ; and, despite the antagonism between her
religious tenets and those of the towmspeople, was
treated with every mark of loyalty and affection. The
town gave refuge, in 1584, both to the celebrated Pro-
fessor Melv^ille of St Andrews and the notable Earl of
Gowrie, who figured in the raid of Ruthven. James VI.
visited the town at periods between 1590 and 1594 ; re-
visited it, with pompous ceremonial, in 1617 ; and, on
the latter occasion, was welcomed in a panegyrical speech
and two Latin poems, delivered by the town-clerk.
The Marquis of Montrose, in 1645, with a force of
only about 750 men, stormed the town, plundered its
churches and principal houses, and set parts of it on fire ;
but was suddenly chased from it by an army of 3800
under Generals Baillie and Harry. Charles II., in
1651, immediately before his march into Worcester,
spent some weeks in Dundee ; got sumptuous entertain-
ment from the magistrates ; and was provided by the
inhabitants with a statel}^ pavilion, six pieces of artil-
lery, and some troops of horse. General Monk, in the
same year, besieged the town ; encountered a stubborn,
prolonged, and sanguinary resistance beneath its walls ;
broke eventually into it with terrible impetuosity ;
slaughtered all its garrison and more than 1200 of its in-
habitants, and subjected it to such a pillage that each
soldier in his army received nearly £60 sterling. Graham
of Claverhouse, in 1689, two years after he had been created
Viscount Dundee, and about six weeks before he fell on
the battlefield of Killiecrankie, approached the town
with intention of inflicting on it signal vengeance ; but
was met, and mainly repelled, by a prompt armed em-
bodiment of the burgesses ; yet succeeded in setting fire
to the entire suburb of Hillto\vn. Graham of Duntroon,
in Sept. 1715, proclaimed in Dundee the Pretender
as King of the British dominions ; and the Pretender
himself, in the following January, made a public en-
trance into the town and spent a night, as we formerly
mentioned, in the town mansion of Stewart of Grand-
tully. A force of Prince Charles Edward, consisting of
about 600 men imder the command of Sir James Kin-
Icch, held possession of the town from 7 Sept. 1745 till
14 Jan. 1746. Queen Victoria and the Prince Consoi't,
in Sept. 1844, on their way to Blair Castle, landed at
Dundee ; and the Prince and Princess of Wales, in Sept.
1864, embarked at it for Denmark. The Queen, the
Prince and Princess of Wales, Prince Leopold, General
Grant, ex-President of the United States, and other
eminent personages also visited it after the first Tay
Bridge was opened.
]\Iany natives of Dundee and its vicinity, and many
other persons who have resided in it, are on the roll of
fame. Some of the chief are Sir William Wallace, who
attended its grammar school, and possibly was a native ;
Sir Nicol Campbell of Lochow, the ancestor of the Dukes
of Argyll ; John Blair, who celebrated the enterprises
of Sir William Wallace in a Latin poem, now lost ;
Alexander Scrymseour, already mentioned as the first
of the hereditary constables of Dundee ; Hector Boece,
the old Scottish historian ; Robert Pitliloidi or Patullo,
who commanded the Scottish guard in the service of
France, and acquired distinguished military honours,
under Charles VII. ; James Hallyburton, provost of the
town for more than thirty years, and a strenuous de-
fender of the principles of the Reformation ; James
Wedderburn and his brotlier, vicar of Dundee, who
considerably aided the overthrow of Popery by their
satires on its clergy ; Dr Kinloch, physician to James
VI. ; the elder Marr, the friend and fellowdabourer of
DUNDEE
Napier of Merchiston, the inventor of logarithms ;
James Gleg, who left a professor's chair in St Andrews
to become rector of Dundee grammar school ; Sir George
Mackenzie, Lord-Advocate of Scotland, author of tho
Institutes of the Scots Law, and founder of the Advocates'
Library in Edinburgh ; John Marr, the constructor, iu
the 17th century, of a remarkably accurate chart of the
Firth of Tay and North Sea ; George Yeaman, the re-
presentative of the town in the last Scottish parliament,
and one of the ablest and most patriotic legislators of
his country ; Robert Fergusson, the talented but unfor-
tunate Scottish poet, who early came to a disastrous end
in Edinburgh ; Robert Stewart, an eminently literary
man, and a distinguished surgeon ; Sir James Ivory,
the celebrated mathematician ; James Weir, also a pro-
found mathematician ; Admiral Viscount Duncan, the
hero of CamperdoAvn, and of many other naval battles ;
Dr Robert Small, the author of an Explanation of the
Astronomical Theories of Kepler ; the Rev. John Glass,
founder of the religious body called Glassites ; the Rev.
John Willison, author of the Afflicted Man's Comjmnion;
the Rev. Dr Russell, author of a number of religious
works, and a powerful preacher ; the Rev. R. M.
M'Cheyne, author of a Mission to the Jcivs, and a
most effective preacher ; Thomas Hood, the humourist ;
AVilliam Thorn and Robert Nicoll, the well-known poets ;
William Gardiner, author of the Flora of Forfarshire,
and other botanical works ; J. B. Lindsay, a distin-
guished mathematician, electrician, and linguist ; Alex-
ander Wedderburn, first Earl of Rosslyn ; and Charles
Middleton, first Lord Barham ; Sir David Baxter, an
eminent manufacturer, and a distinguished local bene-
factor ; the Rev. George Gilfillan, a popular lecturer,
author, and divine.
The parish of Dundee contains also parts of Lochee
and Broughty Ferry, and comprises a main body and a
detached district. The main body lies along the Firth
of Tay ; contains the greater part of the towTi of Dun-
dee ; and is bounded N by Liff, Mains, and Murroes, E
by Monifieth, and W by Liff and Benvie. It has an
elongated form, stretching from E to W, broadest at the
E end, narrowest at the middle ; and it measures 6^
miles diagonally from NE to SW, 5f miles in direct
length from E to W, and 2^ miles in extreme breadth
from N to S. The detached district commences about
4 mile N of the broadest part of the main body ; is
bounded on the W by Tealing, on all other sides by
Murroes ; and has nearly the outline of a square Ih mile
wdde. The entire area is 4582 acres, of which 150J are
detached, 173 foreshore, and 38 water. The surface of the
main body rises gently from the shore ; swells somewhat
suddenly into braes in the northern outskirts of the town ;
ascends boldly thence to the green round summit of
Dundee Law, at an elevation of 571 feet above sea-level ;
forms, to the W of the Law, the lesser, yet considerable
and finely-wooded height of Balgay Hill ; and all, as
seen from the Fife side of the Tay, presents a beautiful
appearance. The view from most parts of it is charming,
and that from the top of Dundee Law is at once exten-
sive, panoramic, and splendidly picturesque. E and S,
as far as the eye can reach, the mouth of the Tay, the
bay and towers of St Andrews, the German Ocean, and
the greater part of Fife, are seen spread out as in a map.
Turning to the opposite point of the compass, the dark
ridges of the Sidlaw Hills, with a broad valley inter-
vening, and the more distant peaks of the Grampians,
meet the eye. The Tay, opposite the town, is rather
less than 2 miles l)road ; and it contracts further down
to a width of barely 1 mile. Dighty and Fithie Waters
traverse the north-eastern part of the main body, and
make a confluence at the boundary with Monifieth. The
rocks are chiefly porphyry, sandstone, amygdaloid, and
trap, and they lie geognostically subjacent to the Car-
Ijoniferous strata. Paving-stone and slate are raised in
small (piantity ; and excellent sandstone abounds in the
detached district, and is extensively (piarried. The soil,
in the E, is partly alluvial, partly argillaceous, anil
generally good ; in "the W, is thin and dry ; in the NW
and behind Dundee Law, is poor, upon a tilly bottom.
425
DUNDEE AND ARBROATH RAILWAY
]\[ansions, separately noticed, are Craigie, Claypots, and
Duntrune. Dundee is the seat of a presbytery in the
synod of Angus and Mearns. It ranked till 1834 as
one parish, but was served by two ministers from tlie
Reformation till 1609 ; it acquired a third minister in
1609, a fourth and a fifth in 1789 ; and it now is
divided into the quoad civilia parishes of Dundee proper,
St ]\Iary, St Clement, and St Paul, with large parts of
St David and St John, and contains whole or part of the
quoad sacra parishes of St Mark, St Andrew, St Enoch,
Chapelshade, Wallacetown, Rosebank, and Logic, and
the chapelries of St Matthew and Clepington. — Ord.
Sur., shs. 48, 49, 1868-65.
Tlie presbytery of Dundee comprises the old parishes
of Dundee, Abcrnj-te, Auchterhouse, Inchture, Kinnaird,
Lilf and Benvie, Longforgan, Lundie and Fowlis, Mains
and Strathmartine, Monifieth, Monikie, Murroes, and
Tealing ; the quoad sacra parishes of Broughty Ferry,
Broughty Ferry-St Stephen, Dundee-St Mark, Dundee-
St Andrew, Dundee-St Enoch, Chapelshade, Wallace-
town, Rosebank, Logie, Lochee, and Lochee-St Luke ;
and the chapelries of Dundee-St Matthew and Cleping-
ton. Pop. (1871) 139,485, (1881) 163,732, of whom
19,809 were communicants of the Church of Scotland
in 1878. The Free Church also has a presbytery of
Dundee, with 18 churches in Dundee, 3 in Broughty
Ferry, 2 in Monifieth, and 7 in respectively Abernyte,
Liff, Lochee, Longforgan, Mains, Monikie, and Tealing,
which 30 churches had 11,075 communicants in 1881.
The U. P. Synod also has a presbytery of Dundee, with
10 churches in Dundee, 2 in Kirriemuir, 2 in Broughty
Ferry, and 6 in respectively Lochee, Alyth, Blairgowrie,
Ferry-Port-on-Craig, Newbigging, and Newport, which
20 churches had 7140 members in 1880.
See Chs. Mackie's Historical Description of the Town of
Dundee {1836) ; C. C. tilaxwelVs Histo7-ical a7id Descri])-
live Guide to Dundee (1858) ; James Thomson's History
of Dundee (1847); A. J. Warden's Linen Trade Ancient
and Modern (1864) ; Warden's Burgh Laws (1872) ; W.
Norrie's Dundee Celebrities of the Nineteenth Century
(1873); W. Norrie's Handbook to Dundee Past and Pre-
sent (] 876) ; Beatts's Municipal History of Dundee (1873) ;
J. Maclaren's History of Dundee (1874) ; W. Hay's
Clmrters, Writs, and Public Documents of the Royal
Burgh of Dundee (1880); and Beatts's Reminiscences of
an Old DundMnian (1882).
Dundee and Arbroath Railway, a railway in the S
and SE of Forfarshire, from Dundee east-north-eastward
to Arbroath. It was authorised, in 1836, on a capital of
£266,700 in shares and £88,900 in loans ; was opened in
April 1840 ; became amalgamated with the Scottish
North-Eastern in July 1863 ; and passed, with the
North-Eastern, to the Caledonian in July 1866. On
Feb. 1, 1880, the North British Railway Co. became
joint owners of the line vnt\\ the Caledonian Co. It
is 17 miles long ; traverses the parishes of Dundee,
Monifieth, Barry, Panbride, St Vigeans, Arbirlot, and
Arbroath ; and has junctions at Broughty Ferry with
the northern terminus or Dundee-ward fork of the
North British railway, and at Arbroath with the E end
of the Arbroath and Forfar railway, and through that
with the Aberdeen section of the Caledonian. It com-
mences at Trades Lane in Dundee ; runs parallel with
Dock Street ; crosses, for about a mile, a baylet of the
Firth of Tay ; traverses a very deep rock cutting on the
Craigie estate ; intersects, at two different points, the
road between Dundee and Broughty Ferry ; goes along
IJroughty Ferry links, and through the barren sands of
Monifieth and Barry ; traverses thence, for 6| miles, a
tract of little interest ; and has, in its course, both
under and over it, a number of beautifully constructed
bridges.
Dundee and Forfar Railway, a railway in the S of
Forfarshire, from Dund(^o north-north-eastward to For-
far. It was authorised, in July 1864, on a capital of
£125,000 in shares and £40,000 in loans ; is 17^ miles
long ; and was opened in Nov. 1870. It belonged, at
first, to the Scottish North-Eastern Company ; and
passed, with the rest of the North-Eastern system, to the
426
DUNDELCHACK
Caledonian. It gives direct communication between
Dundee and Forfar, in lieu of the circuitous route by
way of Arbroath ; and connects, at Forfar, mth the
lines thither from respectively Arbroath and Perth. A
plot of 9 acres for its use at Forfar was purchased, on
the eve of its opening, from the Forfar Tovrn Council.
Dundee and Newtyle Railway, a railway in the SW
of Forfarshire, from Dundee north-westward to Newtyle.
It was originally a single truck line, 10^ miles long,
formed on an authorised capital of £140,000 in shares
and £30,000 in loans, and opened in 1831 ; was leased
in perpetuity, under an act of 1846, to the Dundee
and Perth Company, with further authorised capital
of £50,000 in shares and £16,606 in loans; underwent
alterations and extensions, under both that act and an
act of 1859, with still further authorised capital of
£70,000 in preference shares ; was again extended and
improved, to the aggregate length of 4i miles, under
acts of 1862 and 1864, on further authorised capital
of £49,000 in shares and £14,900 in loans; became
amalgamated as part of the Dundee and Perth system
with the Scottish Central in 1863 ; and passed, as
part of the Scottish Central system, to the Caledonian
in 1865. It originally left Dundee on an inclined plane
800 yards long, with a gradient of 1 yard in 10, and
proceeded through a shoulder of Dundee Law in a
tunnel 340 yards long ; and had a branch for goods
traffic, through the streets of Dundee to the terminus
of the Dundee and Perth railway ; but these features of
it have disappeared. A new reach, in lieu of the dis-
carded portions, and measuring 7f miles in length, was
opened in June 1859 ; and a branch to Lochee, 6 miles
in length, was opened in June 1861. It traverses the
parishes of Dundee, Liff and Benvie, Mains and Strath-
martine, Auchterhouse, and Newtyle ; ascends an
inclined plane, in the gorge of the Sidlaws, to a summit-
elevation of 544 feet above sea-level, and descends a
second inclined plane, through the Slack of Newtyle,
into the valley of Strathraore ; connects there, with
the North-Eastern section of the Caledonian system, by
branches, some of which were originally its own ; and
communicates, through these, with Coupar- Angus,
Meigle, Glamis, and Forfar.
Dundee and Perth Railway, a railway in Forfar and
Perth shires, from Dundee west-south-westward, along
the northern bank of the Tay, to Perth. It is 21 1
miles long, and, opened in May 1847, was amalga-
mated in 1863 with the Scottish Central, with which
it passed to the Caledonian in 1865. It commences
at Yeaman Shore, in Dundee ; skirts the western part
of that toum on a sea embankment ; runs along the
face of the romantic cliff of Will's Braes ; traverses
the charming beach of Invergowrie Bay, near Inver-
gowi-ie village ; crosses the great sandstone quarries of
Kingoodieon a stupendous viaduct ; passes near Inchture
Bay and Powgavie Harbour ; sheers off to some little
distance from Errol, and northward of Inchyra ; coin-
cides again with the river's bank, past Kinnoull ; crosses
the Tay, from Barnhill, on a magnificent bridge of great
length, in the form of a segment of a circle, with the
central part resting on an island ; terminates at the
Princes station in Perth ; and connects, at its E end,
with the Dundee and Newtyle railway — at its W end,
with the several railways radiating from Perth. The
scenery along its course, through the Carse of Gowrie,
and past Kinnoull Hill all onward to Perth, is every-
where beautiful, in many places brilliant, from Glen-
carse to Perth superb. The final meeting of the share-
holders as an independent company was held on Jan. 6,
1882.
Dundavid. See Duntulen.
Dundelchack or Dun na Seilcheig, a loch on the
mutual Ijorder of Daviot and Dores parishes, NE Inver-
ness-shire, 84 miles SSW of Inverness. Lying 702 feet
above sea-level, it has an utmost length from SW to NE
of 3| miles, whilst its breadth varies between 2^ furlongs
and 1 mile. It sends off a rivulet eastward to Loch
Clachan, and thence to tlie river Nairn. Trout and red
char are plentiful, the former running up to 4 lbs. , but
DUNDONALD
neither rise very freely to the fly ; and pike of from 3 to
20 lbs. may be taken by trolling. — Orel. Sur., shs. 73,
83, 1878-81.
Dundonald, an ancient castle in the centre of Killean
and Kilchenzie parish, Kintyi-e, Argyllshire. From the
Macdonalds, Lords of the Isles, it passed to the ances-
tors of the Duke of Argyll, and i§ now represented by
rude remains.
Dundonald, a village and a coast parish of Kyle, Ayr-
shire. The village stands, 113 feet above sea-level, 1§
mile S by E of Drybridge station, 4 J miles NE of Troon,
4| SE of Irvine, and 5^ SW of Kilmarnock, under which
it has a post ofBce. Dundonald Castle, crowning a
beautiful round hill a little W of the village, seems,
from the style of its architecture and from other circum-
stances, to have been erected in the 12th or 13th century.
According to legend, it was built entirely of wood, with
never a wooden pin, by one Donald Din, or Din Donald,
the story of whose em'ichment by the discovery, through
a dream, of a pot of gold is related also of a Norfolk
chapman, a spendthrift of Dort, and a Baghdad beggar
(pp. 236-238 of Robert Chambers's Popular Rhymes of
Scotland, ed. 1870). The residence of several princes
of the Stewart dynasty and the death-place of Robert II.
(1390), it has given the title of Baron since 1647, of
Earl since 1669, to the family of Cochrane ; and now,
with 5 roods of land adjoining, it is the last remaining
property in Ayrshire of that family. Tradition relates
that it was shorn of its topmost story for building or
improving their neighbouring house of Auchans ; but it
still forms a massive two-story ruin, measuring 113 feet
by 40, and retains on its western wall, in high relief but
much obliterated by time, the armorial bearings of the
Stewarts. At its southern end are shattered remains of
two or three arched cells, which belonged to its keep or
prison ; and it seems, from vestiges still visible, to have
been surrounded by a rampart and a moat. Samuel
Johnson and Boswell were here in 1773.
The parish, containing also the seaport of Troon and
the FuLLARTON suburb of Irvine, is bounded N by
Irvine, Dreghorn, and Kilmaurs, E by Riccarton, SE by
Symington and Moukton-Prestwick, SW and W by the
Firth of Clyde. Rudely resembling a triangle in shape,
with southward apex, it has an utmost length from
NNW to SSE of 7| miles, an utmost breadth from
ENE to WSW of 6i miles, and an area of 13,404f
acres, of which 940 are foreshore and 995 water. The
coast-line, 8§ miles long, from the mouth of the Irvine
to that of the Pow Burn, is low and .sandy, broken only
by the promontory of Troon, but fringed by Lappock,
Stinking, Mill, Garden, and Seal Rocks, and Little and
ileikle Craigs. The surface for some way inland is
almost a dead level, and at its highest point but little
exceeds 400 feet above the waters of the firth — said point
occurring near Harpercroft, and belonging to the so-
called Claven or Clevance Hills. All under tillage,
pasture, or wood, these form a central ti'act, and, ex-
tending about 3 miles south-eastward and 1^ mile south-
westward, converge to a culmcn, which commands a
wide panoramic view, said to compi'ise portions of four-
teen counties. From just above Gatehead station to its
mouth, the river Irvine, winding 11 miles west-north-
westward, roughly traces all the boundary with Kil-
maurs, Dreghorn, and Irvine ; whilst Rumbling Burn
follows that with Sj^mington and Monkton, and one or
two smaller rivulets flow through the interior to the
firth. The rocks in the Claven Hills, and elsewhere in
patches, are eruptive ; in all other parts, belong to the
Carboniferous formation. Coal has long been mined
at Shewalton and Old Rome ; excellent sandstone is
quarried for exportation at Craiksland and Collennan ;
and hone-stone, of a very superior quality, abounds on
the estate of Curreath. The soil, to the breadth of
about ^ mile on nearly all the coast, except round
Troon, is sandy and barren ; in the adjacent tracts to
the E, is of various character from light to loamy ; in
the extreme E, is mostly a loamy fertile clay ; and is a
stiffish clay in .some other parts. A very large propor-
tion of the entire area is under cultivation, and much is
DUNDRENNAN
devoted to dairy husbandry. A native was the cobbler-
artist, John Kelso Hunter (1802-73). A famous pre-
Reformation church, 'Our Lady's Kirk of Kyle,' ad-
joined Dundonald Castle, but has disappeared ; and an
ancient chapel stood on Chapel Hill, near Hillhouso
mansion ; whilst not far from Newlield are remains of a
structure, supposed to have been a Roman bath or reser-
voir. A vitrified fort, now in a state of utter dilapida-
tion, crowned a projecting eminence between two ravines
at Kemplaw ; and two ancient camps are on the heights
above Harpercroftfarm. Auchans House is an interesting
object ; and mansions of comparatively modem erection
are FuUarton, Shewalton, Ne^\'field, Fairlie, Curreath,
and Hillhouse, 7 proprietors holding each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 9 of between £100 and
£500, 31 of from £50 to £100, and 100 of from £20 to
£50. In the presbytery of Ayr and s}Tiod of Glasgow
and Ayr, this parish is divided into the quoad sacra
parishes of Troon, Fullarton, and Dundonald, the
last being a living worth £446. Its church, built in
1803, contains 630 sittings ; and four public schools —
Dundonald, Fullarton, Loans, and Troon — with respec-
tive accommodation for 129, 180, 60, and 160 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 136, 126, 39, and
249, and grants of £87, 3s., £90, 17s., £27, 63., and
£207, 18s. 6d. Valuation (1860) £27,538 ; (1882)
£39,095, 3s. Q&.,plus £8060 for railway. Pop. of civil
parish (1801) 1240, (1831) 5579,* (1861) 7606, (1871)
6964, (1881) 8089 ; of Dundonald registration district
(1871) 1507, (1881) 1509.— OrcZ. Sur.,&}a.. 22, 1865. See
the Rev. J. Kirkwood's Troon and Dundonald : vnth
their surroundings. Local and Historical (3d ed., Kilm.,
1881).
Dundonnell, an estate, with a mansion, in Lochbroom
parish, Ross-shire, on the right bank of Strathbeg river,
8 miles S of Ullapool. Its owner, Murdo Mackenzie,
Esq. (b. 1843 ; sue. 1878), holds 64,335 acres in the
shire, valued at £3672 per annum.
Dundonnie, a small green islet of Peterhead parish,
Aberdeenshire, opposite Sterling Hill, and 5 furlongs S
by W of Buchan Ness. It formerly had a salt-pan.
Dundomadil. See Dornadilla.
Diindreich, a huge rounded hill near the eastern bor-
der of Eddleston parish, NE Peeblesshire. It culminates
2| miles NE of Eddleston village at an altitude of 1954
feet above sea-level, and commands views into Lanark-
shire, over the Lothians, and from the Cheviots to the
Grampians.
Dundrennan (Gael, dun-nan-droigheann, ' fort of the
thorn bushes'), a village and a ruined abbey in Rer-
wick parish, Kirkcudbrightshire. The village stands
in a narrow valley, on the right bank of Abbey Bum,
1| mile N by W of the coast at Port Mary, and 5 miles
ESE of Kirkcudbright, under which it has a post office.
Its environs are charming, with vantage grounds com-
manding fine views inland, down the valley, and across
the Solway Firth ; and the village itself consists of a
single row of one-story houses containing many stones
from the ruined abbey, and interspersed with fine old
trees. At it are 2 inns, the manse and parish chuixh
of Rerwick, and a public school. The abbey, standing
in the south-eastern vicinity of the village, was founded
in 1142, for Cistercian monks, by Fergus, Lord of Gal-
loway ; passed, with its property, in 1587 to the Crown;
and was annexed, in 1621, to the royal chapel of Stir-
ling. It fell into such neglect and dilapidation as long
to form a quarry for repairing or erecting neighbouring
houses ; but .still is represented by considerable remains,
with interesting architectural features, and in 1842 was
cleared out and put into a state of conservation by the
Commissioners of "Woods and Forests. Its church was
cruciform, comprising a six-bayed nave (1304 x 30 feet),
with side aisles 15^ feet wide, a transept (107 x 28 feet),
a choir (45 x 26 feel;), and a central tower and spire 200
feet high ; and was partly in the Transition Norman
style, but chiefly in the First Pointed. The cloisters
were on the S side of the church, and enclosed a
♦ Au increase largely due to the annexation of Troon. Halfway,
and Shewalton from Irvine.
427
DUNDUFF
square area of 108 by 104 feet ; various monastic
offices stood still further S, and occupied a space of
nearly 300 square feet ; and to the S of the S transept
stood the chapter-house (51 1 x 35 feet). The chief extant
portions of the pile are the N and S walls of the choir ;
the E aisle of the S transept ; part of the N transept ; a
few feet of the piers of the central tower, remarkable for
their unequal dimensions ; the doorway of the chapter-
house, flanked on each side by a double window ; the
cells or cellars at the entrance to the garden ; and
several curious monuments — of Allan Lord of Galloway
(1234), Prior Blakomor, an abbot, a nun (1440), a cellarer
(1480), Sir "William Livingstoun (1607), etc. Queen
ilary is commonly said to have ridden straight from
Langside to Duntlrennan, or at least to have passed the
last night (May 15, 1568) of her sojourn in Scotland
here ; but Dr Hill Burton questions this belief, chal-
lenging the authenticity of her letter to Elizabeth 'from
Dimdreunan,' and upholding the counter-claims of Ter-
iiEGLES, Lord Herries' house. The estate of Dundren-
nan lies round the village and the abbey, and has long
been the property of the Maitlands of Dundrennan and
CoMPSTONE. — Ord. Sur., sh. 5, 1857. See the Rev.
.ffineas B. Hutchison's Memorials of the Abbey of Dun-
drennan (Exeter, 1857), and J. H. Maxwell's Dundren-
nan Abbey, and its History (Castle-Douglas, 1875).
Dunduff, a farm in Maybole parish, Ayrshire, 6 miles
SW of Ayr. It contains a ruined baronial fortalice, the
shell of the ancient church of Kirkbride, with a burying-
ground still in use, and a field called the Priest's Land
adjoining that graveyard.
Dundurcus, an ancient parish on the E border of
Elginshire, on both sides of the river Spey, 6J miles
SSW of Fochabers. It was suppressed in 1782 or 1788,
when the part of it on the right side of the Spey, except-
ing the small property of Aikenway, was annexed to
Boharm ; whilst that on the left side, together with
Aikenway, was annexed to Rothes. The portion of it
adjacent to the river is a beautiful haugh, and bears the
name of Dundurcus Vale. Its church and buryiug-
ground were situated on the verge of a plateau over-
looking the haugh, 2 miles NE of Rothes village ; and
the chmxh still exists in a state of ruin ; while the
burj-ing-ground was re-enclosed, about 1835, with a sub-
tantial wall.
Dundum, an ancient parish in Strathoarn, Perthshire,
at the foot of Loch Earn, now annexed to Comrie, and
originally called Duinduirn or Dundearn after a dun or
fortified hill at the foot of the loch. The principal
stronghold of the district of Fortrenn, this dun was
besieged in 683 ; and Grig or Girig, King of the Picts,
was slain at it in 889. See St Fillans.
Dund3rvan. See Coatiuudge.
Duneam Hill. See Buiintisland.
Duneaton Water, a stream of the upper ward of
Lanarkshire, rising on the SE slope of Cainitable (1944
feet) at an altitude of 1550. Thence it winds 19 miles
€ast-by-northward, partly on the boundary between
Douglas and Ckawfokdjoun, but chiefly through the
interior of the latter parish, till, after a total descent of
800 feet, it falls into the Clyde at a point Ig mile below
Abington. It receives so many little aflluents, that
over the last 4 or 5 miles of its course it has an average
width of 40 feet ; it is frequently swept by freshets,
overflowing alluvial lands on its banks ; it occasionally
changes portions of its channel and lines of its fords ;
and it is an excellent trouting stream. — Ord. Sur., sh.
15, 1864.
Dunecht, a seat of the Earl of Crawford in Echt
parisli, Aberdeenshire, 5^ miles SSW of Kintore sta-
tion, and 12 W of Aberdeen, under which there is a
post office of Dunecht. Originally a Grecian edifice of
1820, it has received a number of addition.s, the latest
and most important that of 1877-81, from designs by
the late Mr G. E. Street, R.A. Among its more note-
worthy features are the observatory, tlie library, and
tlie private chapel, from the vault beneath which, in
the summer of 1881, was stolen the body of Alexander
William Lindsay (1812-80), twenty-fifth Earl of Craw-
428
DUNFERMLINE
ford since 1398 and eighth Earl of Balcarres since 1651,
who was author of works on the Lindsay family, the
Mar peerage, Etruscan inscriptions, etc. His son and
successor, James Ludovic Lindsay (b. 1847), who is
president of the Royal Astronomical Society, holds 8855
acres in the shire, valued at £6160 per annum. See
Crawford and Balcarres.
Duneira. See Dunira.
Dunemarle. See Dunimarle.
Dunevan, an ancient fort near Cawdor, in Nairnshire.
It has two ramparts, enclosing an oblong level space, on
the toji of a hill ; it contains, within that space, traces
of a well, and remains of a large mass of garrison build-
ings ; and it held beacon communication, through inter-
mediate forts, with Dundardil on Loch Ness.
Dunfallandy, an estate, with a mansion, in Logierait
parish, Perthshire, near the right bank of the Tummel,
1^ mile SSE of Pitlochry. Its owner. Miss Fergusson
(sue. 1836), holds 842 acres in the shire, valued at £513
per annum. Of two stones here, one] marks the scene
of a dreadful murder and usurpation'; the other, half-
sunk in the ground, is carved with grotesque figures of
animals, and was long regarded with much superstitious
awe.
Dunfermline, a city and parish in the SW of Fife.
A royal and parliamentary burgh, a place of manufacture,
and the seat of administration for the western division of
the county, the city stands on the North British line of
railway from Thornton Junction to Stirling, at the
junction of a mineral line southward to Charlestown
harbour, and of a passenger line south-eastward to
North Queensferry, by road being 5^ miles NW of
North Queensferry, 16 NW of Edinburgh, and 29 S
of Perth, whilst by rail it is 7^ WSW of Lochgelly,
15| WSW of Thornton Junction, 29 SW of Cupar, 13^
E by S of AUoa, 20^ E by S of Stirling, and 42;^ NE
by E of Glasgow. Its site is variously flat and slop-
ing, but consists mainly of a longish eminence, which,
stretching from E to W, rises to a height of 354 feet
above sea-level, and presents a somewhat bold ascent to
the N. The environs abound in diversities of surface,
enriched with floral ornament, and gemmed with fine
close views ; and the)' contain a number of mansions,
villas, and pretty cottages. The city, as seen from any
point near enough to command a distinct view, yet
distant enough to comprehend it as a whole, looks to be
embosomed in wood ; and over the tree-tops rise Queen
Anne Street U. P. church, ' with its enormous rectilinear
ridge,' the steeples of the County Buildings, the Town
House, and the old Abbey church, with the fine square
tower of its modern neighbour. A stranger, approaching
Dunfermline for the first time, forms a very mistaken
notion of its extent, supposing it to be little else than
a large village in a grove ; and, on entering, is sur-
prised to find himself in a city teeming with activity,
bustling Avith trade, and every way worthy of ranking
with the foremost burghs. Some vantage spots within
the town, especially the vicinity of the Abbey and the
top of the Abbey church tower, command extensive
panoramic prospects. First, from the top of the
tower are seen the rich tracts of south-western Fife,
together with their equally fine continuation through
the detached district of Perthshire and througli Clack-
mannanshire, to the Ochils ; beyond is the Firth of
Forth, from Nortli Queensferry to Culross, sometimes
concealed by an elevated strip of coast, but here and
there beheld in all its breadth through various open-
ings, and rendered everywhere more picturesque by
thus being chequered with land; further still are the
southern banks and screens of the Forth, beautifully
undulated and luxuriantly fertile, the many-wooded
swells of the Lothians, the heights of Edinburgh, occa-
sionally its very spires, the jjleasure -grounds of Hope-
toun, tlie i^romontory of Blackness, the harbour of
JiorrowstouTiness, and the ' links ' of tlie Forth to the
vicinity of Stirling ; and, at the limits of vision, are
the Lammermuirs of Haddington and Berwick shires,
Soutra Hill at the watershed of the Gala and tlie Tyne,
the Pentlauds in Midlothian, Tiuto in Lanarkshire, the
DUNFERMLINE
Campsie Fells in Stirlingshire, and Ben Lomond and I
Ben Ledi among the south-western Grampians. ]
The alignment and architecture of the town are far ■
from corresponding ^vith the exterior views. The older ■
streets are narrow and irregular ; the principal streets,
though containing substantial houses, want some
character of spaciousness, length, or elegance, to render
them imposing ; and all the streets taken together fail
to present an urban aspect. Yet some portions, either
from their neatness, from their impressive antiquity, or
from combinations of striking natural feature and fine
artificial ornature, are variously pleasing, attractive,
and picturesque. Several streets are entirely modern —
one of the newest in a style displaying much good
taste ; others, even the oldest, have been materially
improved ; and a large suburb in the W is entirely
modern. A bridge, 294 feet in length, was built (1767-70)
at a cost of more than £5500 by George Chalmers, across
Pittencrieff Glen or the glen of the Tower Bum, and
became so surmounted by excellent houses and good
shops, as to be one of the best of the modem streets.
Pittencrieff Glen, even -within itself, through combina-
tion of romantic natural features with interesting ancient
monuments, is highly attractive ; and, as to situation,
' is a most agreeable surprise, hanging on the skirts of a
manufacturing town like a jewel on an Ethiop's ear.'
The demesne, around Pittencrieff mansion, includes the
glen, and spreads away to the SW ; and the glen con-
tains the remains of a tower of Malcolm Ceannmor,
and of a subsequent royal palace, — ^which ruins, with
ground around them sufficient to give access thereto,
were in 1871 pronounced by the House of Lords to
be Grown property. 'The moment you leave the
street,' says Mercer, 'you enter a private gate, and
are on the verge of a deep glen filled with fine old
trees, that wave their foliage over the ruins of the
ancient palace ; and a little further on is the peninsular
mount on which Malcolm Ceannmor resided in his
stronghold. Round the base of the mount winds a
rivulet, over which is a bridge leading to the mansion-
house, situated on the further bank in a spacious park,
well-wooded, adorned with shmbberies, and having a
splendid prospect to the S. The ground, too, is classical,
for amidst this scenery, three centuries ago, when it was
even more romantic than it is at present, must often
have wandered the poet Henrysoun, holding sweet dal-
liance with the Muses.'
Malcolm's Tower is believed to have been built between
1057 and 1070. It crowned a very steep eminence,
rising abruptly from Pittencrieff Glen, and forming a
peninsula ; and was described by Fordun as extremely
strong in natural situation, and defended by rocky cliffs.
Its foundations were 70 feet above the level of the
rivulet below, but could not, from the nature of the
site, have been of very great extent, probably not more
than about 60 feet from E to W, and 55 feet from N
to S, with a pyramidal roof. The tower appears to
have had great thickness of wall, but has been stripped
to the ground of all its hewn outside stones, and is now
only represented by a connected angle or fragment of
the S and AV walls, measuring 31 feet on the S, and 44
feet on the W, with a height of about 8 feet. In spite
of its diminutive character, however, this tower was the
place of Malcolm Ceannmor's marriage to the Saxon
princess, St Margaret, in the spring of 1068, as well as
the birthplace of ' the Good Queen Maud,' wife of Henry
I. of England. About 290 yards NXE of the Tower i"s
St Margaret's Cave, which, as cleared of debris in 1877,
measures llf by 8^ feet, and is 6| feet high. The
Royal Palace may have been founded as early as 1100,
though the so-called Arabic numerals of the Annuncia-
tion Stone turned out in 1859 to be really the last four
letters of the motto Confido. More likely it was not
built till after the departure of Edward 1. of England in
February 1304. Said to have been burned by Richard II.
in 1385, it was restored and enlarged about 1540 by
James V.; passed into neglect after Charles II. 's time ;
and, becoming roofless in 1708, is now a total ruin. It
occupies a romantic site a little SE of Malcolm's Tower,
DUNFERMLINE
and comprises no more than remains of the SW wall,
measuring 205 feet in length, 59 in exterior height, and 31
interiorly from the sill of a window on the first floor ; is
strongly supported by 8 buttresses ; and has several cross-
muUioned ^rindows, and one oriel, over which a 16th
century sculpture representing the Annunciation was
disco%'ered in 1812. In that year the old palace was so
far repaired by the proprietor of Pittencrieff as to be
likely to resist, for a long period, any further dilapida-
tion. The kings of Scotland, from Robert Bruce onward,
appear to have frequently resided in this palace. James
IV. was more in it than any of his immediate prede-
cessors ; James V. and his daughter. Queen Mary, re-
sided here ; James VI. subscribed the Solemn League and
Covenant in it ; and at it were bom David II. (1323),
James I. (1394), Charles I. (1600), and his sister Eliza-
beth (1596), the 'Winter Queen' of Bohemia. Here,
too, the 'young man, Charles Stewart,' kept his small
court, and was kept in courteous restraint, at the time
of Cromwell's invasion in 1650 ; here on 16 Aug. he
subscribed the ' Dunfermline Declaration,' a testimony
against his own father's malignancy.
A building called the Queen's House, to the NE of the
Royal Palace, with which it communicated by a gallery,
stood in the middle of the street, to the N of the present
Fended Tower, and extended nearly to the great W door
of the Abbey Church ; took its name from having been
rebuilt in 1600 by Queen Anne of Denmark and from
having been her personal propei-ty ; was partially in-
habited tiU 1778, but was entirely removed in 1797.
The residence of the Constable of the royal buildings
stood immediately N of the Queen's House. An
aperture, originally about 4 feet high, and 2\ feet wide,
but now so choked with earth as to be only 2| feet high,
is near the NW comer of the Palace, and forms the
entrance to a dark subterraneous passage branching into
olfshoots, and measuring 98i feet in total length. The
Fended or Fended Tower, connecting the Palace and the
Abbe}-, is a massive oblong structure, with elegant groined
archway on the line of the street ; presents interesting
features of strong ribbed arches and Transition Norman
windows ; and now is 35 feet long, 47 high, and 16
broad, but was formerly more extensive. The old
market-cross of 1626, similar to the ancient crosses of
Edinburgh, Aberdeen, Peebles, and other old burghs,
according to the Vandal taste with which such things
were regarded in last century, was removed in 1752,
when its shaft, about 8 feet high, surmounted by a
unicom bearing a shield with St Andrew's Cross, was
built into the comer of a neighbouring house. There it
remained tiU 1868, when it was re-erected within the
railings of the County Buildings.
The Abbey originated in the founding in 1072 of the
church of the Holy Trinity by Malcolm Ceannmor. It
was endowed both by that king and by his sons Ethelred
and Eadgar, and was completed and further endowed by
Alexander I. in 1115. Remodelled in 1124 as a Benedic-
tine Abbey by David I., who placed in it an abbot and
twelve brethren brought from Canterbury, it had become
by the close of the 13th century one of the most extensive
and magnificent monastic establishments in Scotland.
Matthew of Westminster, speaking of what it was at
that time, says, ' Its boundaries were so ample, con-
taining within its precincts three carmcates of land,
and having so many princely buildings, that three
potent soverei.gns, with their retinues, might have been
accommodated \vith lodgings here at the same time with-
out incommoding one another.' It was occupied by Ed-
ward I. of England from 6 Nov. 1303 till 10 Feb. 1304 ;
and by him was set on fire, and otherwise much injured,
along with the Palace, at his departure. It was re-
stored in much less probably than its former magnifi-
cence, after the kingdom became settled under Bruce ;
but, on 28 March 1560, its choir, transepts, and belfry
were, with the monastic buildings, ' cast down ' by the
Reformers. Tlie nave alone was spared, and this was
refitted in 1564, as again in 1594-99, for use as a parish
church, acquiring then a north-western spire, 156 feet
hieh ; and so continuing, under the name of the AuM
^ 429
DUNFERMLINE
Kirk, till 1821. The church, when complete, must
have been cruciform, comprising a seven-bayed nave
with side aisles (106 x 55 feet), a transept (115 x 73 feet),
a choir \vith a lady-chapel (100 x 55 feet), and three
towers — two western ones terminating the aisles, and
flanking the gable of the nave ; and the great central
tower, rising from the crossing. Four tall and beautiful
Pointed windows, in the N wall of the N transept, con-
tinued standing till 1818, when they were removed,
along with the remains of the choir, to give place to the
new church. Judiciously repaired by the Commissioners
of "Woods and Forests in 1847, the nave now serves as a
noble vestibule to the said new church, and is a fine
specimen of the architecture of the age in which it was
erected (1072-1175). Most of its windows have been
filled with stained glass — memorials to Queen Anna-
bella (1860), the Rev. Dr Chalmers (1871), the Reids
(1873), the Alexanders (1873), the Douglases (1877), etc.
The style is Anglo-Norman, but the external effect is
a good deal marred by the enormous buttresses of 1594.
Over the gi-and western doorway is a window of Third
Pointed character, and, on either side of that doorway,
a narrow square tower, with Second Pointed windows.
The N aisle is entered by a porch, with a Norman
arcade above it ; the inner doorway has very rich
Norman moulding ; the archway next the door forms part
of James VI. 's reconstruction, and is in the First Pointed
style. The groined roof is of later date than most of the
interior, and out of keeping with the Norman ornaments,
and the channelled piers separating the aisles from the
nave have decorations somewhat similar to those of
Durham Cathedral. ' The upright mouldings or pilasters
are of Norman character, alternately poh'gonal and cir-
cular, the shafts imdecorated. The interior tiers of mould-
ing of the arch are of toothed and rose work ; while a
broad band of sculpture, representing gi-otesque heads,
animals, and foliage, spreads round the whole, and is
surmounted by a narrow decorated moulding, resembling
the character of a later period. ' The frater-hall or re-
fectory (121 X 34 feet) of the monks stood to the S of the
church, and still exists in a state of ruin to the extent
of the S front wall and the W gable. It has, in the S
front wall, nine tall and graceful \vindows ; and in the
W gable a well-preserved Decorated window of 7 lights,
measuring 20 feet in height, and 16 feet in breadth, and
characterised by the intertwining of its mullions into
compartments, each crossed in quatrefoil.
The Abbey had great wealth and power, owned nearly
all the lands in western Fife, part of the lands in south-
em and eastern Fife, various lands in other counties, and
at one time the barony of Musselburgh in Midlothian.
It possessed the right of a free regality, with civil juris-
diction equivalent to that of a sheriff over the occupiers
of the lands belonging to it, and with a criminal juris-
diction equivalent to that of the Crown, wielding the
t)ower of life and death. A bailie of regality, appointed
)y the abbot and officiating in his name, resided in an
edifice called the Bailie House, near the Queen's House,
and presided in the regality courts. The property of
the Abbey was held, from 1560 till 1584 by Robert
Pitcairn, from 1584 till 1587 by the Master of Grey, and
from 1587 till 1589 by Henry Pitcairn ; and was then
constituted a temporal lordship, and conferred upon
Anne of Denmark, queen of James VI. The office of
heritable bailie of the lordship was given, in 1593, by
Queen Anne to Alexander Seton, who afterwards became
Earl of Dunfermline ; and was recanted, along vdth a
57 years' lease of the feu-duties and rent of the lordship,
by Charles I. to the second Earl of Dunfermline. In
1665 it passed to the Earl of Twceddale, in lieu of a
debt due to him by the Earl of Dunfermline ; was con-
firmed or vested, in 1669, to the Marquis of Twceddale by
royal charter ; and, in common with the other heritable
jurisdictions in Scotland, was abolished in 1748, its value
(reckoned at £8000) being compensated with £2672.
The Abbey Church succeeded lona as the place of royal
and princely sepulture, and so received the ashes of
many kings, princes, and other notable persons. The
chief of these were Malcolm Ceannmor, his queen St
430
DUNFERMLINE
Margaret,* and their sons Eadward, Eadmund, and
Ethelred ; King Donald Ban ; King Eadgar ; Alex-
ander I. and his queen Sibylla ; David I. and his
two queens ; Malcolm IV. ; Malcolm, Earl of Athol,
and his countess, in the reign of William the Lyon ;
Alexander III., his queen Margaret, and their sons
David and Alexander ; King Robert Bruce, his queen
Elizabeth, and their daughter Mathildis ; Annabella
Drummond, queen of Robert III. and mother of
James I. ; Constantine and WiUiam Ramsay, Earls of
Fife ; Randolph, Earl of Moray, Regent of Scotland
during the minority of David II. ; Robert, Duke of
Albany and Governor of Scotland ; Elizabeth Wardlaw,
author oi liar dimnutc, and other famous ballads; and
Ralph Erskine, one of the founders of the Secession
Church. The remains of King Robert Bruce, as strik-
ingly narrated in Sir Walter Scott's Talcs of a Grand-
father, were discovered in 1818 at the digging for the
foundation of the new parish church. Thej' were found
wrapped in a pall of cloth of gold, thrown apparently
over two coverings of sheet-lead in which the body was
encased, all being enclosed in a stone coffin. There was
strong internal evidence of the remains being those of
Robert Bruce, and, after a cast of the skull had been
taken, they were replaced in the coffin, immersed in
melted pitch, and reinterred under mason-work in front
of the pulpit of the new parish church. Not Bruce's
tombstone, then, was that which Robert Burns ' knelt
down upon and kissed with sacred fervour,' thereafter
ascending the pulpit and delivering a rebuke to his
friend who had mounted the cutty stool, 20 Oct.
1787.
The new parish church, or New Abbey Church, was
built in 1818-21 at a cost of nearly £11,000. Cruciform
in plan and Perpendicular in style, it contains, among
other decorations, a stained-glass ^vindow, erected in
1881 as a memorial of the late Earl of Elgin and Kincard-
ine, Governor-General of India, and illustrative of in-
cidents in the life of Christ. In the S transept are
three much admired white marble monuments. General
Bruce's by Foley (1868), the Hon. Dash wood Preston
Bruce's by Noble (1870), and Lady Augusta Stanley's
by Miss Grant of Kilgraston (1876). The church has,
near the E end, a fine square tower 103 feet high, with
terminals indicating it to be practically a mausoleum
over the remains of the royal Bruce. These terminals
show an open-hewn stonework, in the place of a Gothic
balustrade, having in capital letters 4 feet high, on tlie
four sides of the tower's summit, the words ' King Robert
The Bruce, ' with royal crowns surmounting the letters ;
and at each corner of the tower there is a lofty pinnacle.
The church was repaired in 1835, and contains nominally
2050 sittings, but is available practically for only about
1400 persons. St Andrew's Church, in North Chapel
Street, buUt in 1833 as a chapel of ease, and constituted
a quoad sacra church in 1835, contains 797 sittings. The
North Church, at the E end of Golf drum Street, was built,
in 1840, as an extension church ; is likewise now a quoad
sacra parish church ; and contains 800 sittings. Three
Free churches are in the town, and bear the same names
as the three Established ones — Abbey, St Andrew's, and
North (1850 ; 760 sittings). In 1882 the congrega-
tion of Free Abbey Church, dating from 1843, built
a new church in Canmore Street. A Romanesque
octagonal structure, with pinnacles at the corneis,
this, as seen from a distance, presents a pyramidal
appearance, the total height being 100 feet. It seats
800, and cost, with adjoining hall, £5500. Four U. P.
churches also are in the town — Queen Anno Street
* Malcolm was buried first at Tynemouth, but afterwards taken
to Dunfermline ; and here in 1250 his bones were laid by his
wife's when these were translated to a richly-decorated shrine.
The history of fSt Margaret's head is curious— in 15G0 brought to
Edinburgh Castle at Queen Mary's request ; in 1567 removed to the
Laird of Durie's house ; in 1597 delivered to the Jesuits ; in IDJO
exposed to veneration at Antwerp ; and in 1627 transferred to the
Scots College at Douay, whence it disappeared in the French
Revolution. Her other relics, with those of her husband, stem
tf> have been jilaccd by Philip II. of S|)ain in the church of St
Lawrence at the Escurial (Uill Uurton, UUt. Scoti, i. 381, ed.
Ib70).
DUNFERMLINE
(1798-1800; 1642 sittinccs), Chalmers Street (1861-62;
430 sittings), St Margare't's (1826-27; 979 sittings), and
Gillespie (1848-49 ; 600 sittings), the last, on the highest
ground in the city, being a handsome Gothic edifice,
■R-ith stained vrindows and a marble font. Queen
Anne Street U.P. church occupies the site of a former
church built in 1741 for Ralph Erskine, one of the
parish ministers of Dunfermline, and afterwards one of
the founders of the Secession body. It is a gaunt and
ungainly edifice, remarkably conspicuous, but inter-
nally very commodious. On a plot of grouud in front
is a stone statue (1849) of Ralph Erskine, by Handyside
Ritchie. The Independent Chapel, in Canmore Street,
was built in 1841, has a good organ, and contains 700
sittings. The Evangelical Union Chapel, in Bath Street,
is more recent, and contains 310 sittings. A new Gothic
Baptist chapel was built in Viewfield Place in 1882
at a cost of £3000, and contains 600 sittings. Trinity
Episcopal Chapel stands in Bath Street, was built in
1842, and is a Gothic edifice, in the form of a Greek
cross, with a fine organ. St Margaret's Roman Catholic
church, in Holyrood Place, rebuilt in 1871-73 after
designs by Thornton Shiells, of Edinburgh, consists
of an aisleless nave and a semicircular apse, with two
semicircular chapels projecting therefrom. An Irvingite
congregation dates from 1835.
The Old Town House at the corner of Kirkgate and
Bridge Street, with a tower and spire 132 feet high,
becoming inadequate, and being in a somewhat incon-
venient situation, was demolished, along with adjacent
tenements, in 1875, through the operations of an im-
provement scheme. This scheme resulted in the widen-
ing of Bridge Street by 4 feet and of the Kirkgate by
22, and in the erection of the new. Corporation Build-
ings (1876-79), after designs by Mr J. C. Walker, of
Edinburgh, at a cost of over £20,000. These, in a
combination of the Scottish Baronial and French
Gothic styles, have one front to Kirkgate of 144
feet, and another to Bridge Street of 66 feet, whilst
at the connecting corner of the two is a clock tower,
rising to the height of 117 feet, and 23 feet square.
The principal entrance is round-arched, having massive
buttresses and granite columns supporting a balcony
and pjrojecting windows, over which are sculptured the
Royal Scottish arms. The Kirkgate front has fanciful
and grotesque ornaments, while that of Bridge Street
has busts of Malcolm Ceannmor, St Margaret, Robert
Bruce, and Elizabeth his queen. The council chamber
is 39| by 25^ feet, with an open timber roof; while
the burgh courtroom measures 50| feet by 31J, and
has a similar roof to that of the council chamber.
There are a number of portraits of local celebrities in the
Corporation Buildings, as well as the famous cartoon of
Sir Noel Paton's ' Spirit of Religion ' (1845), presented
by the artist in 1881. A stucco model of Mrs D. 0.
Hill's statue of Burns, erected at Dumfries in April
1882, has also been placed in the vestibule. The
burgh prison, standing near the public park, is a very
plain building, but with good internal arrangements ;
and was erected in 1844-45 at a cost of £2070. The
County Buildings, formerly known as the Guild Hall,
were erected, in 1807-11, by a number of private persons
in the district. The frontage to High Street has 24 win-
dows, and is surmounted by a spire 132 feet high. In-
tended originally as a Guild or Merchant House, it was
converted into an hotel in 1817, and in 1849-50 into a
court-house for the western district of Fife. The burgh
post office is in this building. St JIargaret's Hall, in St
Jlargaret Street, was completed in 1878 at a cost of
£9000, in Early English style, with simple exterior de-
corations. The large hall alfords accommodation for 1320
persons, and has a very fine organ, with 26 stops, 1522
pipes, and hydraulic blowing engine ; there are also a
lecture hall, reading-room, and committee rooms. Close
to this hall is the new free public library, erected in
1880-81 at a cost of £5000, by Mr Andrew Carnegie, of
New York, who further gave £3000 for books Domestic
Tudor in style, and three stories in height, it comprises
library, reading, recreation, and smoking rooms. At a
DUNFERMLINE
cost of £5000, the same gentleman founded the Carnegie
Baths (1877), in School End Street. This building
is of the height of two stories in the centre elevation,
with a square tower surmounted by a flagstaff; and
though altogether of a somewhat dwarfed appearance,
is considerably relieved with muUioned windows, highly-
pitched gables with finials, and corbelled turrets. Two
swimming baths measure respectively 70 by 35 and
25 by 17 feet, each sloping from 3 to 6 feet in depth ;
and the larger of the two has accommodation for 500
spectators on occasion of an aquatic ftte. The Music
Hall, in Guildhall Street, was erected in 1851-52. The
building has a clear rise of wall to the height of 90 feet,
and it contains no fewer than three halls, the principal
one accommodating 1500 persons, and having a pro-
scenium and other appliances necessary for a theatre.
The Grammar School or High School stands at the
head of the town ; is a recent, neat, oblong edifice,
erected on the site of former schools built about 1560
and destroyed by fire in 1624, re-erected in 1625 and
removed in 1817 for the present building ; now com-
prises two large schoolrooms and excellent dwelling-
house ; is surmounted by a low, ornamental, circular
tower, meant for an observatory ; and has a playground
in front. The Commercial Academy was erected by the
Guildry in 1816, and was long one of the piincipal
elementary schools in the town. The Rolland School
sprang from a donation of £1000 by the late Adam
Rolland of Gask, and was originally under the direction
of the Town Council. All these schools, together with
the Female Industrial School, the Free Abbey Church
School, and others, were acquired by the Burgh School-
Board after the passing of the Education Act of 1872,
and since then the board has erected a school, at a cost
of £4136, at the "W end of the town ; shared the cost of
another further N with the Parish School-Board, besides
purchasing one for £1200, which was in connection with
St Leonards Weaving Factory. A central school has also
been substituted for the Rolland and Commercial Schools
at a cost of £5143, and altogether there are six public
schools under the board, whilst it also exercises super-
vision over four others. With total accommodation fo:
3055 children, these had (1880) an average attendance of
2215, and grants amounting to £1928, 7s. 6d. There
are also a j'oung men's literary institute, a school of
arts, an agricultural society, an orchestral society, a
horticultural society, an ancient society of gardeners,
a co-operative society (1861-66, 2200 members, and
£19,600 capital), a building company, a property invest-
ment society, two masonic lodges, a Bums's club, a
gymnasium, curling, bowling, cricket, football, and
swimming clubs, a cemetery (1863), a public park (1863),
etc.
The town has a head post office, ivith money order,
savings' bank, insurance, and telegraph departments,
branches of the Bank of Scotland and the British Linen
Co., Commercial, National, and Royal Banks, a national
security savings' bank, offices or agencies of 21 insm-ance
companies, 2 stations, and 6 hotels. Two weekly news-
papers— the Independent Liberal Dunfermline Press
(1859) and the Liberal Dunfermline Journal (1872) —
are published on Saturday. A weekly corn market is
held on Tuesday, and a monthly horse and cattle market
is held on the third Tuesday of every month.
The burgh, at the beginning of the 17th century, was
entirely rural, and had no more than 1600 inhabitants.
Do^-n to the beginning of the ISth centurj', it con-
tinued to be almost without trade, but now it is the
chief seat of the manufacture of table-linen in Great
Britain, perhaps in the world. This manufacture
began slowly, but advanced steadily till it became so
important as to bring much wealth to the town and give
employment to a large population. The weaving of
huckaback and diapers led the way to the weaving of
damask, which was introduced in 1718 ; a great im-
provement on the damask loom was cifectedin 1779; a
further improvement, in the shape of what was called
the comb draw-loom, in 1803; and the Jacquard
machine was introduced in 1825. A drawing academy,
431
DUNFERMLINE
for promoting taste aiul inventiveness in designs, was
established in 1826. Orders for sets of table-linen, from
the nobility and gentry, and eventually from King
William IV. and Queen Victoria, increasingly re-
warded and stimulated progi-ess; orders from America
and from other countries followed ; and certain special
splendid fabrics, particularly one designated the
'Crimean Hero Tablecloth' (1857), as well as the
general excellence of the ordinary damasks, gave the
manufacture an established reputation. There are alto-
gether 11 factories, containing 4000 power looms, and
giving employment to nearly 6000 persons, of whom a
great proportion are females. Among the largest of these
establishments are St Leonards (1851), beautifully situ-
ated at the S side of the town, employing upwards of
1500 work-people ; Bothwell (1865), employing 900 ; and
Victoria (1876), employing 750. Previous to the intro-
duction of steam, the work was produced by hand-
looms, of which there were in 1880 only about 120
remaining, receiving but scanty employment, and this
method is rapidly dying out. The value of goods
annually produced by the power-loom factories may be
reckoned now to average £1,000,000, much of which
finds its way to the American markets — in 1880, the
United States receiving from Dunfermline exports,
chiefly linen, to the value of £443,879. The weaving
trade, besides emjiloying so many persons in the town
itself and in its suburbs, supports looms in the parishes
of Torryburn, Carnock, Culross, and Inverkeithing, and
even in Kinross, Leslie, Strathmiglo, and Auchter-
muchty. The town and its neighbourhood has also 5
bleachfields, employing 500 persons, a tannery, rope-
works, dyeworks, 3 iron foundries, 3 engineering esta-
blishments, fireclay and terra-cotta works, tobacco manu-
factories, breweries, and flour-mills. There are, too,
upwards of 20 collieries in the vicinity of the town.
A royal burgh probably since the beginning of the
12th century, Dunfermline received a charter of confir-
mation in 1538 from James VL, and is governed by a
provost, 4 bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and 15
coimcillors, who act as police commissioners under the
General Police and Improvement Act of Scotland. It
is the residence of the
sheriff-substitute for the
western district of Fife ;
and unites with Stirling,
Inverkeithing, Culross,
and South Queensferry
in sending a member to
parliament. Burgh courts
are lield regularly, with
the town-clerk as asses-
sor ; sheriff ordinary
courts are held every
Tuesday during session ;
sherifl' small-debt courts
on the first and the third
Tuesday of every month during session ; justice of peace
courts, both civil and criminal, are held when necessary ;
and com-ts of quarter sessions are held on the third Tues-
day of April and the last Tuesday of October. The police
force, in 1881, comprised 11 men ; and the salary of the
superintendent was £150. The number of persons con-
victed in 1874 was 546 ; in 1875, 425 ; in 1880, 473. The
water supply, from 1847 to 1865, was furnished by a
joint stock company from 37 acres of reservoirs at Craig-
luscar, 3 miles to the NAV ; but, the supply not proving
satisfactory, the Coriioration bought up the works and
constructed, in 1868, an additional reservoir of 12 acres
Jit the same place. In 1S76 they obtained a new Water
Bill, by which they were enabled to j)rocure in 1878 a
lilentiful supply from Glensherrup Burn, an afliuent
of Devon — the cost of the parliamentary bill and of
the works pertaining to this latter supply being esti-
mated at £72,000. Drainage works (1876-77), to convey
the town sewage to the sea at Charlestown, cost about
£10,000 ; and the gas-works were constructed in 1829 by
a company, with a capital of £22,575. The Corporation
revenue was £870 in 1834, and £8100 in 1882, when the
432
Seal of Dunfermline.
DUNFERMLINE
municipal constituency numbered 2460 ; the parliamen-
tary, 2330. Valuation (1874) £43,281, (1882) £57,790.
Pop. (1801) 5484, (1821) 8041, (1841) 13,323, (1861)
13,504, (1871) 14,958, (1881) 17,085, of whom 7500
were males, and 9585 females. Houses (1881) 3159
inhabited. 111 vacant, 19 building.
Dunfermline, 'the town on the crooked Linn,' as
already stated, took its origin from Malcolm Ceannraor's
Tower ; and, down to the era of the Reformation, owed
its maintenance chiefly to the Royal Palace and the
Abbey. It is mentioned, in connection with ancient
story, in the ballad of Sir Patrick Spens. Edward I. of
England, while residing in it, received the submission
of man}' Scottish barons who had held out against him
during his progress through Scotland. On 25 May
1624, 220 tenements, or nine-tenths of the entire town,
were totally destroyed by fire ; and by the battle of
PiTREAViE or Inverkeithing (Sunday, 20 July 1651),
between the armies of Cromwell and Charles II., Dun-
fermline lost some hundreds of its townsmen. On 24
Oct. 1715, it was the scene of the surprisal of a Jacobite
detachment of fourscore horse and three Highland foot.
Dunfermline gave the title of Earl, from 1605 till 1694,
to the family of Seton ; and the title of baron, in 1839,
to the third son of Sir Ralph Abercromby. Among dis-
tinguished natives or residents of the town or the parish,
have been members of the Bruce, the Seton, the Halket,
and the WarJlaw families ; John or Arnold Blair (flo.
1300), a monk of the Abbey, and chaplain to Sir William
Wallace ; John Durie, also a monk of the Abbey, who
embraced the Protestant faith and became an eminent
preacher of it in Montrose, Leith, and Edinburgh ;
George Durie, Abbot of Dunfermline, and for some time
an extraordinary Lord of Session and Keeper of the
Privy Seal ; Robert Pitcairn, Abbot of Dunfermline and
Secretary of State during the regencies of Lennox, Mar,
and Morton, and afterwards under James VI. ; three
other Abbots of Dunfermline, who held the oflice of
Lord High Chancellor of Scotland ; David Ferguson
(1534-98), the first Protestant minister of Dunfermline,
and a man of great celebrity in his day ; John David-
son (1544-1604), a playwright and Reformer, who was
minister at successively Liberton and Prestonpans ;
Robert Henrysoun, a poet and 'guid Scholemaister of
Dunfermline' (1450-99) ; Adam Blackwood (1539-1623),
a Catholic controversialist, and a senator in the parlia-
ment of Poitiers ; Henry Blackwood (1526-1613), an
eminent physician ; Admiral Sir Andrew Mitchell
(1757-1806) of the Hill, who figured conspicuously in
the naval service in the time of Lord Howe and Lord
Nelson ; Henry Fergus (1764-1837), minister in Dun-
fermline Relief Church, who did some service in matters
of physical science ; Robert Gilfillan (1798-1850), minor
poet; the Rev. Peter Chalmers, D.D. (1790-1870), his-
torian of Dunfermline, and for 52 years its minister ;
Ebenezer Henderson, D.D. (1784-1858), theological pro-
fessor in Highbury College, London ; his nephew,
Ebenezer Henderson, LL.D. (1809-79), the historian of
Dunfermline; Sir Noel Paton, R.S.A. (b. 1821); his
brother. Waller Paton, R.S.A. ; and his sister, the
sculptor, Mrs D. 0. Hill.
The parish of Dunfermline contains also the villages
of Charlestown, Halbeath, North Queensferry, Cross-
ford, Masterton, Patiemuir, Townhill, Kingseat, and
Wellwood, chief part of Limekilns, and part of Cross-
gates ; and comprises a large main body and a small
detached district. The main body is bounded N by
Cleish in Kinross-shire, NE by Beath, E by Dalgety
and Inverkeithing, S by Inverkeithing and the Firth of
Forth, W by Torryburn, Carnock, and Saline. Its
utmost length, from N to S, is 8 miles ; its breadth,
from E to W, varies between 3§ and 5^ miles ; and its
area is 21,066.j acres, of which 229 are foreshore and
270i water. The detached district, lying 1| mile S of
the nearest part of the main body, and containing North
Queensferry, is a modern annexation from Inver-
keithing, and comprises only 197i acres. The coast,
exclusive of this detached district, is IJ mile long,
chiefly of a rocky character ; and, in the portion
DUNFERMLINE
immediately in front of Broomhall House, rises steeply,
and is covered with tine wood. The detached district
is a peninsula between St Margaret's Hope and Inver-
keithing Bay, projecting to within 3 furlongs of Inch-
garvie island, and rises from its point northward to
a height of 200 feet. The southern division of the
main body, with a general ascent from S to N, exhibits,
though nowhere exceeding 253 feet above sea-level,
in most parts, diversities of undulation and acclivity,
and displaj-s over most of its surface rich wealth
of both natural feature and artificial culture. The
northern division is much more diversified in general
contour, attaining 449 feet at Baldridge, 529 at Colton,
705 at the Hill of Be.vth, 744 at Craigluscar, 746 at Din
Moss, 1189 at Knock Hill, 883 at Muirhead, 921 at
Craigencat, and 1014 at Outh Muir — heights that have
generally a bleak and uaked aspect. The islets Long-
Craig, Du-Craig, and Bimar lie within the seaward
limits, but are all small and rocky. The only streams
are brooks, the chief of these being Lyne Burn, Baldridge
Burn, and that which runs through Pittencrieff Glen.
Town Loch (3x1 furl.), Craigluscar Reservoir (If x 1
furl.), and Lesser Black Loch (^ x J furl. ), lie within the
northern division ; Loch Glow (6 x 3^ furl. ) and the
Greater Black Loch (2 x § furl.), on the Kinross-shire
border ; whilst on the boundary -with Beath is shallow
Loch Fitty (1 x ^ mile). A small mineral spring oc-
curs in the vicinity of Charlestown. The rocks of
the hills are chiefly eruptive, and throughout great part
of the lower grounds belong to the Carboniferous
system. Trap, sandstone, and limestone are exten-
sively worked ; ironstone, chiefly in balls and in thin
bands, was foi'merly worked to the extent of about 4500
tons annually ; copper pyrites, in small quantities,
occur in the ironstone ; and coal was mined here prior to
1291, earlier, that is, than in any other place in Britain,
unless it be Tranent. It continues to be turned
out in vast quantities, both for home use and for expor-
tation. The soil, in most parts of the southern division,
is a rich brown loam, in other parts of a light nature
incumbent on strong clay ; in some portions of the
northern division is of fair quality, but in others is poor
and shallow. Rather less than two-thirds of the entire
area are under cultivation ; about 1100 acres are under
wood ; and the rest of the land is either pastoral or
waste. Broomhall, the seat of the Earl of Elgin, is a
prominent feature, and has been separately noticed.
Pitreavie, Pittencrieff", Pitfirrane, Garvoch, Craigluscar,
Halbeath, Gask, Blackburn, Middlebank, Pitliver, South-
fod, Keirsbeath, Sunnybank, Netherbeath, Northfod,
and Balmule are the principal estates ; and most of
them, as well as some others, are noticed either separ-
ately or in other articles. This parish is the seat of a
presbytery in the synod of Fife, and is divided ecclesi-
astically into Dunfermline proper, Dunfermline-North,
and Dunfermline -St Andrew. The population, in 1881,
of Dunfermline proper, was 17,817 ; of Dunfermline-
Korth, 4028 ; of Dunfermline-St Andrew, 4503. The
charge of Dunfermline proper is collegiate. At Town-
hill is an Established chapel of ease (1878) ; and there
are also U. P. churches of Crossgates (1802) and Lime-
kilns (1825). Nine public schools, under the landward
board, with total accommodation for 2318 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 1482, and grants
amounting to £1332 ; and a neat oblong poorhouse, on
the Town Green to the ENE of the burgh, was erected
in 1843 at a cost of £2384, and contains accommoda-
tion for 187 pauper inmates. Landward valuation (1866)
£40,715, 12s. lOd., (1882) £49,854, Is. 5d. Pop. of
entire parish (1801) 9980, (1831) 17,068, (1861) 21,187,
(1871) 23,313, (1881) 26,3i8.—Ord. Sur., shs. 40, 32,
1867-57.
The presbytery of Dunfermline comprises the old
parishes of Aberdour, Beath, Carnock, Culross, Dal-
gety, Dunfermline, Inverkeithing, Saline, and Torry-
burn, the quoad sacra parishes of Dunfermline-St
Andrew, Dunfermline-North, and Mossgreen, and the
chapelry of Townhill. Pop. (1871) 38,356, (1881)
41,510, of whom 5882 were communicants of the Church
28
DUNGLASS
of Scotland in 1878. — The Free Church has also a pres-
bytery of Dunfermline, with 3 churches in Dunfermline,
and 8 in respectively Aberdour, Carnock, Culross, Las-
sodie, North Queensferry, Saline, Torryburn, and Tulli^
allan, which 11 churches had 2106 communicants in
1881.— The U.P. Synod likewise has a presbytery of
Dunfermline, with 4 churches in Dunfermline, and 7
in respectively Alloa, Cairneyhill, Crossgates, Inver-
keithing, Kincardine, Limekilns, and Lochgelly, which
11 churches had 4363 members in 1880.
See John Fernie's History of the Town and Parish of
Dunfermline (Dunf. 1815) ; Andrew Mercer's History of
Dunfermline (Dunf. 1828) ; Cosmo Innes' Rcgistrum de
Dunfermelyn (Bannatyne Club, 1842) ; the Rev. Peter
Chalmers' Historical and Statistical Account of Dunferm-
line (2 vols., Edinb. , 1844-59) ; Dr Ebenezer Henderson's
Royal Tombs at Dunfermline (Dunf. 1856) ; his Annals
of Dunfermline aiul Vicinity from 1069 to 1878 (Glasg.
1879) ; and J. C. R. Buckner's new edition of Clark's
Guide to DunfcrniHae and its Antiquities (Dunf 1880).
Dunfermline and Queensferry Railway. See North
British Railway.
Dunfermline and Stirling Railway. See North
British Railway.
DunfiUan, a verdant conical hill in Comrie parish,
Perthshire, 7 furlongs E by S of the foot of Loch Earn.
It rises to a height of 600 feet, and terminates in a
rock popularly called St Fillan's Chair, whence the
saint whose name it bears is alleged to have bestowed
his benediction on the suiTounding country.
Dun Fionn, a vitrified fort in Kiltarlity parish,
Inverness-shire, on a high conical mound above a cliff",
on the S side of the Dhruim, 45 miles WSW of Beauly.
It is on the Lovat estate ; and, a number of years ago,
was laid open, by order of the late Lord Lovat, for the
inspection of the curious.
Dungavel, a bold, green, double-topped hill (1675
feet) in the central part of Wiston and Roberton parish,
Lanarkshire, overhanging the river Clyde, at the mouth
of Roberton Burn, 24 miles S by W of Tinto.
Dungavel, a hill (1502 feet) in Avondale parish,
Lanarkshire, 6 miles SSW of Strathaven.
Dungeon, a lake in the N of Kells parish, Kirkcud-
brightshire, 8 miles NW by W of New Galloway.
Lying 1025 feet above sea-level, it is f mile long, and
from I furlong to | mile wide ; it contains both trout
and char ; and it sends oif a rivulet to Pulharrow Burn,
an affluent of the Ken. — Ord. Sur., sh. 8, 1863.
Dungeon, Dry, Round, and Long Lochs of the, three
neighbouring lakes of AV Kirkcudbrightshire, the first
lying on the mutual border of Carsphairn and Minni-
gaff" parishes, and the two last in the N of Minnigaff.
Their measurements and altitude above sea-level are —
Dry Loch (1x1 furl. ; 1075 feet). Round Loch (2x1
furl. ; 910 feet), and Long Loch (2^ x 1 furl. ; 900 feet).
Dry Loch, at the 'divide' between the Firth of Clyde
and the Solway Firth, sends off" its effluence partly
northward by Gala Lane to Loch Doon, partly south-
ward by a burn that traverses the other two to Coorau
Lane, and so to the Dee ; and all three abound in small
tTont—Ord. Sur., sh. 8, 1863.
Dunglass, a small rocky promontory in Old Kilpatrick
parish, Dumbartonshire, 3 furlongs W by S of Bowling
Bay, and 2.^ miles ESE of Dumbarton. Almost sur-
rounded by the Clyde, it may have been possibly a
Roman outpost, but has been \\Tongly regarded by some
antiquaries as the western termination of Antoninus*
"Wall ; was long a stronghold of the chiefs of the Clan
Colquhoun, and retains round all its crest loopholed,
ivy-clad ruins of their ancient castle ; and is crowned,
on its highest point, by an obelisk, erected in 1839 to
the memory of Henry Bell, the originator of steam
navigation.
Dunglass, a mansion in Oldhamstocks parish, E
Haddiugtonshire, standing in the midst of a fine park,
it mile inland, and 1^ mile NW of Cockburnspath.
An elegant edifice, surmounted by a tower, it occu-
jiies the site of a strong castle of the Lords Home,
which, passing, on their forfeiture in 1516, to the
433
DUNGYLE
Douglases, was besieged and destroyed by the
English under the Earl of Northumberland in the
winter of 1532, and again under the Protector Somerset
in 1547. It was rebuilt in greater extent and grandeur
than before, and gave accommodation in 1603 to James
YI. and all his retinue when on his journey to London ;
but, being held in 1G40 by a party of Covenanters
under the Earl of Haddington, whom Leslie had left
behind to watch the garrison of Berwick, it was blown
up with gunpowder on 30 August. An English page,
according to Scotstarvet, vexed by a taunt against his
countrymen, thrust a red-hot iron into a powder barrel,
and himself was killed, with the Earl and many others.
Dunglass is the seat now of Sir Basil Francis Hall,
seventh Bart, since 1687 (b. 1828; sue. 1876), who holds
887 acres in the shire, valued at £2158 per annum.
Dunglass was the birthplace of his grandfather. Sir
James Hall (1761-1832), the distinguished geologist and
chemist. A wooded, deep ravine called Dunglass Dean,
and traversed by Berwick or Dunglass Burn, extends
4^ miles north-north-eastward to the sea, along the
mutual border of Haddington and Berwick shires. It
is spanned by two bridges not far from each other on
old and new lines of road, and by an intermediate mag-
nificent railway viaduct, whose middle arch is 135 feet
in span, ami rises 125 feet from the bed of the stream to
the top of the parapet. With five other arches toward
the ravine's crests, this viaduct is, in itself, an object
of gi'eat architectural beauty ; and combines with the
adjacent bridges and mth the ravine's features of rock
and wood and water to form an exquisitely striking
scene.— Orrf. Sur., sh. 33, 1863.
Dungyle, a green hill (600 feet) in Kelton parish,
Kirkcudbrightshire, near the N base of the Screel, si
miles S by E of Castle-Douglas. An ancient Caledonian
circular hill -fort on it has three ramparts of stones
mixed with earth, and measures 117 paces in diameter.
Dungyle, Buteshire. See Dunagoil.
Dimhead, an ancient triangular camp or fort in Car-
myllie parish, Forfarshire, on a peninsular eminence at
the junction of the Black Den and the Den of Guynd
ravines. Probably formed by the Caledonians, and re-
modelled by the Danes, it was defended on two sides
by precipices, and on the third by a rough rampart and
a ditch ; and it is now represented by mere vestiges.
Dun-I, an abrupt hill, 327 feet high, in lona island,
Argyllshire, \ mile NNW of the Abbey.
Dunian, a lumpi.sh, round-backed, ridgy hill in
Bedrule and Jedburgh j^arishes, Roxburghshire. It
rises from a base of between 2 and 3 miles in breadth ;
extends about 3 miles between the Teviot and the Jed
do\vn to the vicinity of their point of confluence ; bears
most of the town of Jedburgh on its north-eastern skirt ;
attains, on a cap or nodule within Bedrule parish, an
altitude of 1095 feet above sea-level ; is traversed over
its back, not far from the crowning cap, by the road
from Jedburgh to Hawick ; and commands, from much
of that road, and especially from its sumnut, extensive
and splendid views. Its name signifies the ' hill of St
John.'
Dunimarle, an estate in Culross parish, Perthshire,
a little to the W of Culross town. An ancient castle
here was one of the traditional scenes of the murder of
Lady Macduff and her children ; the present mansion is
almost entirely modern, built by the late Mrs Sharpe
Erskine, and containing a good library, with paintings
and other works of art.
Dunino or Denino, a hamlet and a parish in the E of
Fife. The hamlet lies between Cameron and Chesters
Burns, 4^ miles SSE of St Andrews, under which it has
a post ollice.
The parish is bounded N and NE by St Andrews, E
by St Leonards, SE by Crail, S and SW by Carnbee,
and W by Cameron. Irregular in outline, it has an
utmost length from N to S of 3 miles, an utmost width
from E to \V of 2 miles, and an area of 2737^ acres, of
which 22.^ lie tletached. The surface is drained by
Cameron, Wakefield, and Chesters Burns, whose waters
unite in the NE corner of the parish, to flow as Kenlv
434
DUNIPACE
Burn toward the sea ; and takes a general south-west-
ward rise, from less than 200 to over 500 feet above sea-
level. The rocks belong chiefly to the Carboniferous
formation, and coal was at one time extensively mined.
Ironstone is not rare, having once been collected from
the side of one of the brooks to the amount of 40 tons ;
and sandstone of excellent quality is abundant, but has
not been much quarried. The soil in some parts is
clayey, in others sandy. About 100 acres are under
wood. Pittairthie Castle, a roofless ruin in the SW of the
parish, is partly very ancient, partly a structure of 1653 ;
and in its oldest portion consists of a large square tower,
with vaults beneath. Stravithie Castle, another baronial
fortalice, a little to the NW of the hamlet, stood entire
about the year 1710, but now has left no traces. Drafl'an
Castle, too, supposed to have been built by the Danes,
has completely disappeared. An ancient nunnery stood
on the highest ground in the parish, whence its ruins
were removed in 1815. Three stones, by Chesters
Burn, 100 yards W of the church, are supposed to have
been part of an ancient Caledonian stone circle. The
Rev. Charles Rogers, LL.D., antiquary, was born at
the manse in 1825 ; and Wm. Tenuant, author of
Anster Fair, was parish schoolmaster (1813-16).
Dunino is in the presbytery of St Andrews and synod
of Fife ; the living is worth £300. The parish church,
a Gothic building of 1826, contains 230 sittings ; and
a public school, with accommodation for 92 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 79, and a grant of
£53, lis. Valuation (1882) £4213, 18s. 7d. Pop.
(1801) 326, (1831) 383, (1861) 370, (1871) 325, (1881)
ilb.—Ord. Sur., sh. 41, 1857.
Dunipace, a village and a parish of E Stirlingshire.
The village, called the Milton of Dunipace, stands on
the left bank of the river Carron, opposite the town of
Denny, with which it is connected by a bridge, and
with which it has formed a police burgh since 1876 ;
and is itself a considerable place, sharing in Denny's
industries. Pop. (1881) 1258.
The parish, containing also the village of Torwood,
took its name from two famous mounds, to be after-
wards noticed ; and, anciently a chapelry of Cam-
buskenneth, acquired parochial status at the Refor-
mation. In 1624 it was united on equal terms to Lar-
bert, and came in course of time to be considered as
subordinate to, or as absorbed into, it ; but since
the passing of the Poor-law Act (1834) has again been
treated, in various respects both civil and ecclesiastical,
as a distinct or separate parish. It is bounded W and
N by St Ninians, E by Larbert, SE by Falkirk, and S
and SW by Denny. Its utmost length, from E to W, is
5^ miles ; its breadth, from N to S, varies between f
mile and 3|^ miles ; and its area is 5629 acres, of which
43 are water. The Carkon winds 5^ miles east-south-
eastward on or close to the Denny border, then 1 mile
eastward through the south-eastern interior, here being
joined by Bonny Water, which for the last H mile of
its crooked east-north-easterly course roughly traces
most of the boundary with Falkirk. The eastern dis-
trict is part of the Carse of Stirling, and sinks to less
than 100 feet above sea-level ; thence the surface rises
to 206 feet near Househill, 250 near Doghillock, 354 in
the Tor Wood, 496 near RuUie, and 846 near Buckie-
side, at the north-western extremity of the parish.
Trap rock prevails over about one-third of the area, and
sandstone over the other two-thirds ; the latter is partly
capital building material, partly of a character well
suited for flag or pavement. The soil ranges from moorish
earth to argillaceous alluvium, but for the most part is
extremely fertile. Of the entire area, 3800 acres are in
tillage, 986 jjasture, 300 waste, and 500 under wood.
Mining has fallen off of recent years, but Dunipace finds
an outlet for its labour in the neiglibouring industries
of Denny parish. Torwood Castle is a venerable ruin,
and, with the remnant of Torwood Forest, is sejiarately
noticed. Herbertshire Castle is a very ancient mansion,
standing amid finely-wooded grounds ; originally a royal
hunting-seat, it passed in the 15th century to the Earls
of Orkney, in the 16th to the Earls of Linlithgow :
DUNIPHAIL
ind, coming aftenvards to the Stirlings and the More-
heads, was sold in 1835 to Forbes of Callendar. Car-
brook House, too, occupies a romantic site, amid well-
wooded grounds, within half a mile of Torwood Castle ;
whilst Dunijjace House and Quarter House are elegant
modern mansions. Dunipace mounds, or the ' Hills of
Dunipace,' whence the parish derived its name, are
situated on a small plain adjacent to the Carrou, 2 miles
ESE of Milton village ; and, covering 2 Scotch acres,
rise to a height of 60 feet. According to George
Buchanan, they were raised to commemorate a treaty
of peace between some Caledonian king and the Roman
Emperor Severus (hence their name Dual Pads, ' hills
of the peace'!); according to Dr Hill Burton, they
are ' evidently residuary masses left by retreated waters,
in which they have made shallows or islands. This
will account for their form without the necessity of
supposing that they were ever rounded by art. If
analogy did not support this view, it would be strength-
ened by the incident of a third hill in the same place
having been levelled about 1835, and showing complete
internal evidence of natural formation.' Some finely-
preserved Roman utensils, one of them of a unique
kind, have been discovered near Dunipace village ;
and, in result of a search instigated by the discovery
of these relics, distinct vestiges of a previously un-
noticed Roman camp were found in a neighbouring
wood. Forbes of Callendar and Harvie-Brown of
Quarter are the chief proprietors, 2 others holding
ea<;h an annual value of £500 and upwards, 12 of be-
tween £100 and £500, 9 of from £50 to £100, and 13
of from £20 to £50. In the presbytery of Stirling
and synod of Perth and Stirling, this piarish forms a
joint charge with Larbert, the stipend and allowance
for communion elements amounting to £404. The
plain old parish church, whose graveyard is still in
use, stood within a few yards of the Hills of Dunipace ;
the present one, on a knoll 1^ mile to the WN"\V, is a
Gothic edifice, built in 1834 at a cost of £2500, and
containing 604 sittings. There is also a Free church ;
and two public schools, Dunipace and Torwood, with
respective accommodation for 300 and 60 children, had
(1880) an average attendance of 155 and 31, and grants
of £130, 18s. 6d. and£23, 4s. Valuation (1882) £10,761,
18s. lOd., including £1032 for railwav. Pop. (1801)
948, (1841) 1578, (1861) 1731, (1871) 1733, (1881) 1875.
—Orel. Sur., sh. 31, 1867.
Duniphail or Dunphail, an estate in Edinkillie parish,
Elginshire, with a station of its own name on the High-
land railway, near the right bank of the Divie, 1^ mile
SSE of its influx to the Fiudliorn river, and 8^ miles
S bv W of Forres. The estate, extending southward
from the station to nearly the source of the Divie, be-
longed anciently to the Comyns, and, after passing suc-
cessively to the families of Dunbar acd Cumming-Bruce,
came by marriage in 1864 to Thomas-John Hovell-
Thurlow, who, born in 1838, in 1874 succeeded his
brother as fifth Baron Thurlow (ere. 1792), and in the
same year assumed the additional surnames of Cumming-
Bruce. He owns 10,518 acres in the shire, valued at
£1182 per annum. Dunphail Castle, which crowns a
green conical hill, three-fourths engirt by a narrow
ravine, supposed to have been at one time the channel
of the Divie, was vainly besieged in the beginning of the
14th century by Randolph, Earl of Moray, after the
'Battle of the Lost Standard,' and is now a fragmentary
ruin. The present mansion, erected in 1828-29, from
designs by Playfair, of Edinburgh, and considerably
enlarged in 1842, is a splendid edifice in the Venetian
style, with very beautiful grounds. It was built on a
terrace 26 feet above and 200 yards distant from the
Divie ; but in the great flood of 3 and 4 Aug. 1829 it
was all but destroyed by that impetuous stream, the
bank falling in within one yard of the foundation of the
E toMrer.— Orel. Sur., sh. 84, 1876. See Divie.
Dunira, a fine modern mansion in Comrie paiish,
Perthshire, 21 miles E of St Fillans, and 3 WNW of
Comrie. From its wooded hill-side it commands a mag-
nificent view of Strathearn ; it was the favourite resid-
DUNKELD
ence of that unfortunate statesman, Henry Dundas, first
Viscount Melville (1742-1811); and it now is a seat of
Sir Sidney James Dundas of Bkechwood, who holds in
Perthshire 5529 acres, valued at £2725 per annum.
Dunkeld (Celt, dun-caldcn, 'fort of the Keledei' or
Culdees), a small but very interesting town of Strathtay,
Perthshire, partly in the parish of Caputh, partly m
that of Dunkeld and Dowally. A burgh of barony, it
stands 216 feet above sea-level, on the left bank of the
Tay, which here receives the Bran, and here is spanned
by a magnificent bridge, leading 1 mile south-south-
eastward to BiitXAM village and Dunkeld station on the
Highland railwav (1856-63), this being 80J miles S by
E of Grantown, 8i NW of Stanley Junction, 15| NNW
of Perth, 61 J NNW of Edinburgh, and 77f NE by N of
Glasgow. The town lies low, deep sunk among wooded
heights— behind it, Newtyle (996 feet) and Craigiebams
(900) ; and opposite, with the broad deep river between,
Craig Vinean (1247) and Birnam Hill (1324). Gray, in
describing the approach to it, speaks of the rapid Tay,
seeming to issue out of woods thick and tall, that rise
upon either hand ; above them, to the W, the tops of
higher mountains ; do-\vn by the river-side under the
thickest shades, the town ; in its midst a ruined cathe-
dral, the tower and shell still entire ; and a little be-
yond, the Duke of Athole's mansion. Dunkeld is,
indeed, the portal of the Grampian barrier ; and its
environs ofl"er an exquisite blending of all that is most
admired in the Highlands with one of the richest mar-
gins of the Lowlands.
About 815, or nine years after the slaughter of the
monks of lona by Vikings, Constantin, King of the
Picts, founded the Culdee church of Dunkeld, as seat of
the Columban supremacy in Scotland ; which church
was either completed or refounded by Kenneth mac
Alpin, who in 850 translated to it a portion of St
Columba's relics. So richly does Kenneth seem to
have endowed this church, that, prior to 860 its wealth
exposed it to pillage by the Danes, under the leadership
of Ragnar Lodbroc. The first of its bishops was also
first bishop of the Pictish kingdom, the Bishop of Fort-
rcnn ; but at his death in 865 the primacy was transfen-ed
to Aberuethy, since the second abbot is styled merely
' princeps ' or superior, and may have been either a cleric
or a layman. Lay abbots certainly, and probably
hereditary, were Duncan, who fell in battle at Drum-
crub (965), and Crinan, who was son-in-law to Malcolm
II. of Scotia, and father of the 'gracious Duncan,' and
who, saj-s Dr Skene, ' was in reality a great secular chief,
occupying a position in power and influence not inferior
to that of any of the native Mormaers.' During his
time the abbey itself appears to have come to an end,
for in 1027 Dunkeld was ' entirely burnt. ' The bishopric
was revived in 1107 by Alexander I. , among its thirty-
seven holders were Bruce's 'own bishop,' William Sin-
clair {oh. 1338), and Gamn Douglas (1474-1522), the
translator of Virgil's Aeiuid. Once and once only Dun-
keld has figured markedly in history, when on 21 Aug.
1689, twenty-five days after Killiecrankie, the cathedral,
Dunkeld House, and the walls of its park were success-
fully held against 5000 Highlanders by the new-formed
Cameronian regiment, 1200 strong, under Lieut. -Col.
William Cleland, the same young poet Covenanter by
whom, ten years before, Drumclog had been mainly
won. He now fell early in the siege, wliich was main-
tained from early morn till close on midnight ; but his
men withstood stubbornly every wild onslaught of the
mountaineers, and, being galled by musketry from the
town, sent out a party with blazing faggots, fastened to
long pikes. They fired the dry thatch, and burned
every house save three ; nay, some of the zealots with
calm ferocity turned the keys in the locks, and left the
unhappy marksmen to their doom. At length, worn
out, the Highlanders retreated, whereon the Cameronians
' gave a great shout and threw their caps in the air, and
then all joined in offering up praises to God for so
miraculous a victory.' So ended this conflict between
the 'Hillmen' and the Mountaineers, which, trifling as
it may seem, had all the effect of a decisive battle in
435
DUNEELO
crushing the hopes of James VII. 's Scottish adherents
(vii. 385-390 of Hill Burton's Hist. Scotl, ed. 1876).
In olden times Dunkeld received many a visit from
royalty, on its way to hunt in Glen Tilt — from William
the Lyon in the latter half of the 12th century, from
James V. in 1529, and from Queen Mary in 1564. And
Queen Victoria, three times at any rate, has driven
through the town. First, with Prince Albert, on 7
Sept. 1842, when 500 Athole men escorted her from the
triumphal arch to the luncheon tent in the midst of an
encampment of 1000 Highlanders. There she was wel-
comed by the late Duke of Athole (then Lord Glenlyon),
who, through over-fatigue, had suddenly become quite
blind ; and there she beheld a sword-dance. Next, with
Prince Albert still, on 11 Sejjt. 1844, when they 'got
out at an inn, which was small, but very clean, to let
Vicky have some broth ; and Vicky stood and bowed to
the people out of the window.' Thirdly, incognita,
with the Dowager Duchess of Athole, on 3 Oct. 1865.
Nor have other illustrious visitors been rare — the poet
Gray (1766), Robert Burns (1787), Wordsworth (1803),
etc., etc., etc.
The pretty village of Birnam, which has been sepa-
rately noticed, is connected with the town by Telford's
noble stone bridge erected in 1805-9 at a cost of £33,978,
of which £7027 was advanced by the commissioners of
Highland roads, £18,000 borrowed on the security of the
tolls, and the rest defrayed by the Duke of Athole. Mea-
suring 685 feet in length, 26^ in width, and 54 in height,
it has seven arches — the middle one 90, two others each
84, two others each 74, and the two land-arches each 20,
feet in span. The pontage was abolished in 1879. The
town is laid out in the form of a cross ; and, as ap-
proached from the right side of the Tay, is not seen in
its full extent till one reaches the middle of the bridge.
The street leading from the bridge was commenced in
1808, along a new reach of the Great North Road, from
Perth to Inverness, by way of the bridge, and was
designed to be a sort of new town, more elegant than
the old ; at the lower or bridge end staud the Athole
Arms and the Free church, at the upper the Royal
Hotel and the City Hall. The street at right angles to
it comprises most of the old to\vn, as reconstructed after
the siege of 1689, and with a single exception consists
of houses later than that date. The one exception is
the ancient deanery, standing not far from the choir
of the cathedral, and characterised by great thickness
of wall.
The cathedral stands by the river side, at the W end
of the old street, a little apart from the town, and on
one side is shaded by trees, on the other bordered by a
flower garden. It comprises a seven-bayed nave (1406-
65), 122 feet long by 38 feet wide, and 40 high to the
spring of the roof, with side aisles 12 feet wide , a four-
bayed aisleless choir (1318-1400), 104 by 27 feet ; a rec-
tangular chapter-house (1457-65), on the N side of the
choir ; and a massive north-western tower (1469-1501),
24 feet square, and 96 feet higli. All are Second Pointed
in style, except the choir, which retains some scanty
portions of First Pointed work, and is the only part not
ruinous. Not long had the belfry been finished, when,
on 12 Aug. 1560, Argyll and Ruthven required the
Lairds of Airntully and Kinvaid ' to pass incontinent to
the Kirk of Dunkeld, and tak doun the haill images
thereof, and bring furth to the kirkyard, and burn
them openly. And siclyke cast doun the altars,
and purge the kirk of all kinds of monuments of
idolatry ; and this ye fail not to do, as ye will do us
siii.gular empleasure, and so commits to tlie protection
of God. Fail not but ye tak good heid tliat neither the
desks, windocks, nor doors be onyways hurt or broken,
cither glassin work or ironwork.' The tenderness of
the closing injunction woidd seem to have been neglected,
since the roofs were included in tlie demolition ; and
not until 1600 was the choir re-roofed to serve as tlie
parish church. Such it is still, and Dorothy Words-
worth describes the ruin in 1803 as 'greatly injured by
being made the nest of a modern Scotch kirk with sash
windows, very incongruous with the noble antiime
436
DUNKELD
tower;' but in 1815 Government gave £990 and the
Duke of Athole £4410 towards its renovation, and it
now contains 655 sittings. In the nave may be
noticed abundant features of the French Flamboj'ant.
The great W window, for instance, so far as can bo
judged from the remaining fragments of its tracery,
appears to have been designed on a peculiarly florid
pattern, and so deflects from the vertical line of tho
gable, as to give space for a smaller circular window
with double spiral muUions, above which is a foliated
cross, still quite entire. The windows of the side aisles
are very beautiful, and present no fewer than eight
distinct patterns of tracery. The massive round piers
dividing the side aisles from the nave are 10 feet high to
the capital and 13i in circumference, and out of Scot-
land might almost be taken for Romanesque. The
arches between them, however, are unmistakably
Second Pointed, with fluted soffits. The triforium con-
sists of plain semicircular arches, divided by mullions
into two lights, with a ti'cfoil between ; and the clere-
story likewise consists of two-light windows, with tre-
foil heads and quatrefoil interval. Buttresses project
between the windows, and are surmoimted in the choir
portion by crocketed pinnacles. An octangular turret,
resembling a watch tower, at the south-western angle of
the nave, terminates in a small parapeted gallery,
supported on a rose carved moulding, and takes up a
staircase, communicating by an ambulatory with the
main tower, in which hang four bells. An elaborately
sculptured monument of Bishop Robert Cardeny (1436),
comprising a statue of him in his robes, beneath a
crocketed canopy, is in the S aisle of the nave ; a
statue of Bishop William Sinclair (1338) is in the N
aisle ; a gigantic stone effigy of Alexander Stewart, Earl
of Buclian, the ' AVolf of Badenoch ' (1394), arrayed in
panoply of mail, is in the spacious vestibule of the
choir, where also a Gothic mural tablet was erected in
1872 to the memory of the officers and men of the 42d
Highlanders who fell in the Crimean War and Indian
Mutin}'. The upper part of it contains a sculptured
group, in high relief, representing a scene on a battle-
field, all in pure white marble from the chisel of Sir
John Steell, of Edinburgh. The chapter-house, adjoining
the N side of the choir, is still entire ; is lighted by four
tall lancet windows, with trefoil heads, and, serving as
the burying place of the ducal line, contains a fine
marble statue of the fourth Duke of Athole (1833), with
monuments of other members of the family.
The episcopal palace, a little SW of the cathedral,
consisted of several long two-story houses, with thatched
roofs, till in 1408 it was superseded by a strong castle,
rendered necessary by frequent annoyance from High-
land caterans ; and, though now long extinct, has
bequeathed to its site the name of Castle Close. The
bishops made a great figure in their day. They had four
palaces, at Dunkeld, Clunie, Perth, and Edinburgh,
and got their lands S of the Forth erected into the
barony of Aberlady, and those in the N into the
barony of Dunkeld, which latter extended, not only
around the to\vn but continuously, with considerable
breadth, for a distance of 7 miles to the palace of Clunie.
A hill on which the bishops hanged many a freebooter
rises close to the second lodge of the ducal grounds, and
to the rear is a hollow in which many persons accused of
witchcraft were burned at the stake. An ancient chapel,
on ground now occupied by Athole Street, was built
about 1420 by Bishop Cardeny, who endowed it with the
rents of the lands of Mucklarie, eventually transferred to
the rector of the grammar school. Another ancient
chapel stood on Hillhead to the E of the town ; was
erected principally for the inhabitants of Fungarth ; is
now represented by only an enclosure wall around its
site ; and, having been dedicated to St Jerome, has
bequeathed to the people of Fungarth the ludicrous
nickname of ' Jorums.'
Dunkeld House, the modest seat of the Dukes of
Athole, is a plain square mansion of the 17th century,
behind the cathedral. A new palace, a little to the W,
beside the Tay, was founded by the fourth Duke, who
DUNKELD
left it unfinished at his death in 1S30. Planned on a
smnptuous scale, this promised to form a magnificent
Gothic edifice ; but the site did not please the next
Duke, so two stories only •were nearly linished, vrith a
gallery 96 feet long, a private chapel, a spacious stair-
case, and many fine mullioned windows. The whole,
after Hopper's designs, would have cost £200,000, of
which £30,000 was actually expended. The grounds con-
nected with Dunkeld House are of great extent, and,
highly improved by the sixth Duke of Athole, who died
in 1864, are surpassingly rich in features of natural and
artificial beauty, including a home-farm, extensive gar-
dens with vineries and greenhouses, an ' American
garden,' 50 miles of walks and terraces, 30 miles of
carriage-drives, the Rumbling-Bridge, the Falls of Bran,
Ossian's Hall, etc. Plantations alone cover 18,500 acres,
of larch principally, which is commonly said to have here
been introduced to Scotland — a claim disputed, under
date 1725, by Dawick in Peeblesshire. Anyhow, ' it
was in 1738 that Mr Menzies of lleggemie brought
small plants of the tree from London, and left five at
Dunkeld and eleven at Blair, as presents to the Duke
of Athole. These sixteen plants no doubt formed the
source whence sprang the great proportion of the larch
plantations throughout Scotland during last and the
early part of the present century. . . . The entire
area under larch in the Athole forest is stated at 10,324
acres, and the trees originally planted on it at 14,096,719.
. . . Of the five planted in 173S, two were cut in
1809 ; one of them contained 147, and the other 168,
cubic feet of timber ; and they were sold at 3s. per cubic
foot. . . . The two remaining ones of the five are
still in a growing condition, and though they have begun
to show signs of decay, they might yet survive many
years. In 1831 their girth at 4 feet from the ground
was 12 and 11 feet; in 1867, IQ% and 14|' ('Larch
Forests,' in Trans. Highl. and Ag. Hoc, 1869). Besides
these ' Mother Larches,' there are two oaks, two beeches,
and a sycamore, whose huge dimensions are recorded in
the same Transact io'/is for 1880-81.
The old town cross, about 20 feet high, with four iron
jougs attached to it, was removed about the beginning
of the present century ; in 1S66 a fountain was erected
by public subscription on its site to the memory of the
sixth Duke. In 1877 a substantial City Hall was built
at a cost of £1500 ; and Dunkeld has besides a post
oflBce, with money order, savings' bank, insurance, and
telegraph departments, branches of the Bank of Scot-
land and the Union Bank, a local savings' bank, 5 in-
surance agencies, 2 hotels and 2 inns, a public library,
gas-works (1851), a good water-supply (1866), 2 masonic
lodgos, a Good Templars' lodge, curling and cricket clubs,
a horticultural and poultry association (1869), a rose asso-
ciation (1873), a young men's Christian association, etc.
Saturday is market-day ; and fairs are held on 13 Feb.,
5 April, 20 June (St Columba's), and the second Tuesday
in November (cattle and horses), but they have dwindled
greatly in importance. Nor are there any manufactures,
the linen industry having been long extinct. Places of
worship, other than the Cathedral, are an Independent
chapel(1800; 310sittings)and thenewFreechu^ch(1874-
75 ; 1000 sittings). The latter, which cost above £3000,
presents a large gable frontage, with a tower upon
either side, of which the western terminates in a slated
sjiire, 85 feet high. The interior is adorned with
a stained-glass memorial ^\"indow to Fox-ilaule Ramsay,
eleventh Earl of Dalhousie, who laid the foundation
stone. The royal grammar school was founded in
1567, the Duchess of Athole's girls' industrial school
in 1853. St George's Hospital, endowed by Bishop
George Brown in 1510 for seven old bedesmen, was
succeeded by small cottages after the siege of 1689, and,
through the loss of its charter, was stripped of most
of its property about 1825. The town is governed by a
baron bailie, under the Duke of Athole, having never
availed itself of Queen Anne's charter of 1704 erecting it
into a royal burgh. Pop. (1831) 1471, (1841) 1094,
(1851) 1104, (1861) 929, (1871), 783, (1881) 768.— Or^^.
6'ur., shs. 48, 47, 1868-69.
DUNKELD AND DOWALLY
Dunkeld is the seat of a presbytery in the synod of
Perth and Stirling, which meets on the last Tuesday of
every second month, and comprises the old parishes of
Auchtergaven, Blair Athole, Caputh, Cargill, Clunie,
Dunkeld and Dowally, Little Dunkeld, Kinclaven, Kirk-
michael, Lethendy and Kinloch, Moulin, and Rattray,
■with the qiwad sacra parishes of Glenshee and Tenandry,
Pop. (1871) 17,750, (1881) 17,030, of whom 3825 were
communicants of the Church of Scotland in 1878. —
There is also a Free Church presbytery of Dunkeld, with
churches of Auchtergaven, Blair Athole, Burrelton,
Cargill, Clunie, Dalguise and Strathbran, Dunkeld,
Kirkmichael, Lethendy, Moulin, and Struan, which
together had 1548 communicants in 1881.
See Canon Alexander Myln's Vitce JDunkeldensis Eccle-
sicB Episcoporum (edited for Bannatyne Club by T.
Thomson, 1823-31) ; vol. ii. of Billings' Baronial and
Ecclesiastical Antiquities of Scotland (1852) ; Dunkeld,
its Straths and Glens (new ed., Dunkeld, 1879); and
pp. 149-162 of Dr "William Marshall's Historic Scenes in
Fcrthshirc (IbSO).
Dunkeld and Dowally, a Strathtay united parish of
central Perthshire, containing the villages of Dowally
and KiNDALLACHAN, and also part of the town of Dun-
keld, which part, however, lies detached from the main
body, a little to the SE. Bounded N by Logierait, E
by Clunie and Caputh, and S and W by Little Dunkeld,
it has an utmost length from N to S of 6^ miles, a vary-
ing breadth from E to W of f mile and 4 J mUes, and an
area of 9825^ acres, of which only 18|- belong to the
Dunkeld portion. The remaining 9S07| acres belong-
ing to Dowally include 369 of water, and comprise a
detached section, the barony of Dalcapon, which, lying
mainly on the left bank of the Tummel, \h mile N of
Ballinluig Junction, and surrounded on three sides by
Logierait, has a length from SW to NE of 4 miles, with
a var\dng width of 2J and 7 furlongs. The Tay flows
6| miles south-south-eastward along all the boundary
with Little Dunkeld, and receives Kindallachan and
Dowally Burns from the interior. In the interior, too,
are Loch Ordie (5 x 3^ furl.), Lochan na Beinne (U x f
furl.), St Colme's Loch (2x1 furl.), and Dowally Loch
(l|x|furL), whilst at the meeting-point of Logierait,
Moulin, and the Dalcapon section lies Loch Broom (5^
X 2 furl. ). Along the Tay the surface decUnes to less
than 200 feet above sea-level, thence rising eastward to
1440 feet near Lochan na Beinne and 1622 at Chapel
HilL Dorothy Wordsworth has left us her impres-
sion of this parish, through which she drove with her
brother on 8 Sept. 1804:— 'We travelled down the
Tummel till it is lost in the Tay, and then, in the
same direction, continued our course along the vale
of the Tay, which is very wide for a considerable
way, but gradually narrows, and the river, always
a fine stream, assumes more dignity and importance.
Two or three miles before we reached Dunkeld, we
observed whole hill -sides, the jiroperty of the Duke of
Athole, planted with fir trees till they are lost among
the rocks near the tops of the hills. In forty or fifty
years these plantations will be very fine ' — a prediction
abundantly verified, woods, mostly of larch, now cloth-
ing the entire parish, with the exception of barely one-
fortieth in pasture and little more than a tenth under
crops. The Queen, too, remarks in her Journal on the
beautiful windings of the Tay and the richly-wonded
height, rocky and pyramidal, of Craigiebarns. ' A large
white building, St Colme's, 7 furlongs SSE of Dowally
and 4 miles NNW of Dunkeld, is the model farm of the
Dowager Duchess of Athole ; and the Duke of Athole is
the sole proprietor. This parish is in the presbytery of
Dunkeld and synod of Perth and Stirling ; the living is
worth £232. The churches are noticed under Dowally
and Dunkeld ; and Dowally public, Dunkeld Duchess of
Athole's, and Dunkeld Royal schools, with respective
accommodation for 107, 135, and 151 children, had (1880)
an average attendance of 42, 85, and 68, and grants of
£48, 17s., £86, 5s. 6d., and £54, Is. Valuation (1882)
£3356, 10s. 8d. Pop. of parish (1801) 1857, (1831) 2037,
(1841) 1752, (1861) 971, (1871) 839; of Dunkeld regis-
437
DUNKELD AND PERTH RAILWAY
tration district (1S71) SSI, (1881) SS2.—0rd. Snr., slis.
55, 56, 47, 18(59-70.
Dunkeld and Perth Railway. See Highland Rail-
way.
Dunkeld, Little, a Strathtay parish of central Perth-
sliire, containing the villages of Birnam, Inver, Dal-
guise, and Balnaguard, with the stations of Murthly,
Dunkeld, and Dalguise. It is bounded N by Logierait,
NE by Dunkeld-Dowally and Caputh, E by Kinclaven,
S by Anchtergaven, the Tullybeagles section of Methven,
the Logiealmond section of Monzie, and Fowlis Wester,
W by Dull and a fragment of Weem. Its utmost
length, from N to S, is 11;^ miles ; its width varies be-
tween 2| and 14| miles, the latter measured from W by N
to E by S, viz. , from Loch Fender to the Tay near Murthly
station ; and its area is 41,941^ acres, of which 872^ are
water. The Tay sweeps 17§ miles east-south-eastward,
southward, and east-south-eastward again, along all the
boundary with Logierait, Dunkeld-Dowally, and Ca-
puth ; its affluent, the Bran, from 9 furlongs below its
exit from Loch Freuchie, winds 12^ miles east-north-
eastward, partly along the southern border, but mainly
through the interior. Loch Skiach (6 x 3^ furl.) and
Little Loch Skiach (2^ x H furl.) lie towards the middle
of the parish ; and on its western border are Lochs
Crcagh (1§ x f furl. ) and Fender (2f x 2 furl.). In the
furthest E the surface sinks along the Tay to less than
200 feet above sea-level, thence rising westward and
north-westward to Kingswood (451 feet), Birnam Hill
(1324), Little Trochrie Hill (1199), Creag Liath
(1399), Airlich (1026), Meikle Crochan (1915), Craig
A'inean (1247), Druim Mor (1203), Meall Mor (1512),
Craig Hulich (1809), Meall Dearg (2258), Creag
Mhor (1612), Creag an Eunaich (1506), Meall Reamhar
(1659), Elrick More (1693), Craig Lochie (1700),
and Creag Maoiseach (1387), where the eleven last
are all to the N of the Bran. Roofing-slate, of
excellent quality and of a deep-blue hue, has been quar-
ried on Birnam Hill, and fine-grained sandstone near
l\Iurthly, while potters-clay occurs in Strathbran. The
soil is black loam throughout most of the eastern valley,
on the other arable lands is partly black mould, partly
a mixture of sand and gravel, and on the hills is very
poor. Nearly three-sevenths of the entire area are
regularly or occasionally in tillage, less than a fifth is
pastoral, about one-thirteenth is under wood, and all
the remainder is waste. A considerable though ever
lessening number of cairns, stone circles, and hill-forts
make up the antiquities, with ' Duncan's Camp ' upon
Birnam Hill, the ruins of Trochrie Castle, an old bridge
across the Bran a little higher up, and a memorial stone
at Ballinloan that marks the meeting-place of feudal
courts. In the daj's of Bishop James Bruce, about the
middle of the 15th century, this parish suffered severely
from the raids of Robert Reoch Macdonnochie ; and at
some period unknown to record its church and its
clergy would seem to have fared but poorly at the hands
of its own parishioners. For —
' Oh ! sic a parish, oh ! sic a parish !
Oh ! sic a parish is Little buiikcl' !
Thej'hae hanf;:it the minister, droun'd the precentor.
Dung doun the steeple, an' fuddl'd the bell.'
Thanks to the beauty of its scenery. Little Dunkeld has
many interesting memories of visits from illustrious per-
sonages— the poets Gray and Wordsworth, the Queen
and Prince Consort, Millais the painter, and others.
Perhaps the most interesting of all is that thus noted in
Puirns's Highland Tour :—' 30 Aug. 1787. Walk with
Mrs Stewart and Beard to Birnam top — fine prospect
down Tay — Craigiebarns hills — Hermitage on the Bran,
with a picture of Ossian — breakfast with Dr Stewart —
Neil Gow plays — a short, stout-built, honest. Highland
figure, with his greyish hair shed on his honest social
brow — an interesting face, marking strong sense, kind
openheartf;dness, mixed with unmistrusting simplicity —
visit his hou.se— Marget Gow.' Neil Gow (1727-1807)
was born at Inver ; so was his son, Nathaniel (1766-
1831), who was himself a masterly violinist. The prin-
cipal mansions are Murthly Castle, Dalguise House,
438
DTJNLOP
Kinnaird House, Kinloch Lodge, Torwood, St Mary's
Tower, and Erigmore ; and 6 heritors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 7 feuars of between £100
and £500, 9 of from £50 to £100, and 7 of from £20 to
£50. Giving off portions to the quoad sacra parishes of
Amulree and Logiealmond, Little Dunkeld is in the
I)rcsbytery of Dunkeld and synod of Perth and Stirling ;
the living is worth £358. There are two churches — the
one, by the Tay, nearly opposite Dunkeld, built in
1798, and containing 820 sittings ; the other, in Strath-
bran, near Rumbling- Bridge, 3 miles to the WSW,
rebuilt in 1851, and containing 250. There is also a
Free church of Strathbran and Dalguise, standing near
Trochrie, 4 miles WSW of Dunkeld ; and the five
schools of Drumour, Little Dunkeld, Murthly, Balna-
guard, and Dalguise, with respective accommodation for
67, 200, 88, 37, and 56 children, had (1880) an average
attendance of 46, 137, 59, 27, and 56, and grants of £37,
14s., £144, 5s. 6d., £57, lis. 6d., £37, 3s., and £52,
17s. Valuation (1843) £8960, 6s. lOd., (1882) £20,209,
6s. lid. Pop. of parish (1801) 2977, (1831) 2867, (1861)
2104, (1871) 2373 ; of registration district (1871) 2352,
(1881) 2149.— Ore?. Sur., shs. 47, 48, 55, 1868-69.
Dunkenny, an estate, with a mansion, in Eassie and
Nevay parish, Forfarshire, 2 miles WSW of Glamis
station. Its owner, John Ramsay L'Amy, Esq. (b. 1813;
sue. 1854), holds 475 acres in the shire, valued at £700
per annum.
Dunlappie, an ancient parish in the N of Forfarshire,
united in 1612 to Stracathro. It forms the north-
western district of the present Stracathro parish ; takes
its name from the two words Dun and Lappie, signifying
a 'hill' and 'water;' and consists partly of Lundie
Hill (800 feet), with West Water flowing around much of
the hill's base, and partly of lower grounds traversed by
numerous streamlets.
Dun Leacainn, a massive hill (1173 feet) in Inverary
parish, Argyllshire, rising from the margin of Loch
Fyne to the NE of Furnace village, 8 miles SW of
Inverary town. A granite quarry, furnishing stones of
fine grain and colour for exportation, is worked in a
spur of the hill, and was the scene of a stupendous blast
in Oct. 1871, when 4 tons of gunpowder, deposited in a
deep boring, the result of more than a twelvemonth's
operation, exploded ^^•ith a muflled roar, and with a
slight upheaval of the hill-front ; and tore into pieces,
ready for working to the desired size, many thousand
tons of the solid rock.
Dunliath, an old Scandinavian fort in Kilmuir parish,
Isle of Skye, Inverness-shire.
Dunlichity, an ancient parish of NE Inverness-shire,
united in 1618 to Daviot, and lying along Strathnairn
to the SW of Daviot. It takes its name, originally
JJunlecatti, and signifying 'the hill of the Catti,' from
a hill adjacent to its church ; it forms the larger portion
of the united parish of Daviot and Dunlichity ; and it
still has a church of its owm, rebuilt in 1758, and con-
taining 300 sittings. The Catti, whose territory lay in
and around it, were the ancestors of the Clan Chattan,
comprising Macintoshes, MacPhersons, Davidsons,
MacGillivrays, MacBeans, VicGovies, Gows or Smiths,
and others, all followers of Macintosh of Macintosh.
Dunlop, a village in the N of Cunninghame district,
Ayrshire, and a parish partly also in Renfrewshire. The
village, standing on the right bank of Glazert Burn, has
a post and telegraph office, a branch of the Clydesdale
I'ank, and a station on the Glasgow, Barrhead, and Kil-
marnock Joint railway, 2g miles NNW of Stewarton, 7|
NNW of Kilmarnock, and 16 SW of Glasgow ; fairs are
held at it on the second Fri<lay of May, o. s., and 12
Nov. Pop. (1861) 330, (1871) 380, (1881) 357.
The parish, containing also Lugton Junction, 2.{ miles
N of Dunlop and 5i E by S of Beith, is bounded N and
NE by Neilston, SE and S by Stewarton, and NW by
I'.cith. Its utmost length, from NE to SW, is 55 miles ;
its lireadth, from NW to SE, varies between 3.^ furlongs
and 2^ miles ; and its area is 7181| acres, of which 1101
belong to Renfrewshire, and 2 are water. Three streams
all run south-westward, on their ultimate way to the
DUNLOSEIN
Irvine— LuGTON Water along the boundary with Beith,
Corsehill Burn along that with Stewarton, and Glazert
Burn right through the interior ; Halket Loch, covering
9 or 10 acres, was drained about 1830. Sinking to 280
feet above sea-level at the south-western corner of the
parish, the surface rises thence to 444 feet near Ravens-
lie, 447 near Dunlop station, 583 near Titwood, 828
near Craignaught, 687 near East Halket, and 749 at
Drumgrain — steep rocky knolls or hills these last that
command a brilliant panoramic prospect. The rocks
are partly eruptive, partly carboniferous ; claystone-
porphyry, amygdaloid, greenstone, and basalt have been
extensively quarried ; limestone is plentiful, and has
long been worked ; and coal exists, but of very inferior
quality. Columnar basalt, its pillars generally penta-
gonal and somewhat curved, occurs at Lochridge Hills,
and has been laid bare by quarrying operations. The
soil in a few spots is moss, in some is a fine loam, and
mostly is of a clayey retentive nature, very productive,
especially in grass. Barbara Gilmour, a woman whose
wits had been sharpened by exile in Ireland during
Scotland's troubles between the Restoration and the
Revolution, settled down in Dunlop as a farmer's wife,
and, liaving specially turned her attention to the pro-
duce of the dairy, attempted successfully to manufacture
Irom unskimmed milk a species of cheese till then un-
known in Scotland, and differing vastly from the horny
insipidity of her foregoers. Her process soon was copied
by her neighbours ; and ' Dunlop cheese ' came in a
short time into such demand, that whether made by
Barbara or her neighbours, or by the housewives of
adjoining parishes, it found a ready market far and near.
Even Cobbett himself pronounced it 'equal in quality to
any cheese from Cheshire, Gloucestershire, or Wiltshire. '
The Cimninghame cattle of the present day, from whose
milk this famous cheese is mostly made, are descendants
Irom several foreign animals — Alderneys, according to
tradition — purchased about the middle of last century
by Mr John Dunlop of Dunlop House. Aiket Castle
is the principal antiquity ; a pre-Reformation chapel, ^
mile from the village, having left no vestiges. From at
least 1260 down to 1858 the lands of Dunlop were held
by a family of the same name, the last but one of whom
John Dunlop (1806-39), M.P. for the county, was created
a baronet in 1838. He it was that built Dunlop House
in 1833, a fine Tudor mansion, IJ mile E of Dunlop
station. At present 3 proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 21 of between £100 and
£500, 13 of from £50 to £100, and 13 of from £20 to
£50. Dunlop is in the presbytery of Irvine and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth £367. The parish
church, built in 1835, is a handsome edifice, containing
750 sittings. There is also a Free church ; and a public
school, with accommodation for 221 children, had (1880)
an average attendance of 144, and a grant of £107, 15s.
Valuation (1860) £9750; (1882) £13,104, 19s., ^jJws
£2550 for railway. Pop. (1801) 808, (1831) 1040, (1861)
1038, (1871) 1160, (1881) 13QB.—0rd. Sur., sh. 22,
1865.
Dunloskin, a farm with a small fresh-water lake in
Dunoon parish, Argyllshire, on the Hafton estate, 1
mile N by W of Dunoon town. Loch Loskin (500 x 200
yards) lies at an altitude of 110 feet above sea-level, and
is famous for water-lilies and other aquatic plants ; W
of it rises peaked Dunan (575 feet), which commands a
splendid view.
Dunlugas, an estate, with a mansion in Alvah parish,
Banffshire, on the right bank of the Deveron, 4^ miles
NNW of Turriff. Built in 1793, the mansion is a hand-
some three-story granite edifice, with very beautiful
grounds. Its owner. Captain Hans George Leslie,
owns 1568 acres in the shire, valued at £1447 per
annum. See Alvah.
Dunmacsniochan. See Beregonium.
Dunmaglass (Gael, dun-na-glas, 'grey castle'), an
estate, with a shooting-lodge, in the detached Nairn-
shire section of Daviot and Dunlichity parish, 15 mili's
SSW of Daviot church, and 6J E by S of Inverfarigaig
pier, upon Loch Ness. Since 1626 the estate has
DUNMYAT
belonged to the heads of the Macgillivrays, its present
holder being Neil John ]\Iacgillivray, Esq. , of Montreal,
in Canada ; and, extending over 12,600 acres of £1000
annual value, it comprehends all the upper waters of the
Farigaig.
Dunman, a rocky hill on the SW coast of Kirkmai-
den jiarish, Wigtownshire, overhanging the sea, 4^ miles
WNW of the Mull of Galloway. It rises to a height of
522 feet ; is crowned with the vestiges of an ancient
fort, probably of the times of the Strathclyde or Cum-
brian kingdom ; and, about the end of last century, had
an eagle's eyrie on its cliffs.
Dvuunhieraonaill or Bonaldson's Tower, a ruined
ancient beacon or watch-tower in Kilninver and Kilmel-
fort parish, Argyllshire, on a point on the coast of the
Sound of INIuU.
Dunmoor. See Dun, Muir of.
Dunmore, a conspicuous height (841 feet) in Comrie
parish, Perthshire, 1^ mile N by W of Comrie village.
It is crowned by a handsome granite obelisk, 72 feet
high, erected in 1815 to the memory of Henry Dundas
of DuNiRA, first Viscount Melville (1742-1811) ; and it
commands a magnificent view of Strathearn.
Dunmore, a hill (1520 feet) in Crieff parish, Perth-
shire, flanking the left or E side of the Sma' Glen of
Glenalmond, 5 miles S of Amulree. A ruined ancient
fort surmounting it, about half a rood in extent, consists
of strong stone bulwarks, in places double, and partly
vitrified on the W side. Inaccessible on all sides except
one, and there defended by a deep trench, 30 paces be-
yond the bulwarks, it is believed to belong to the ancient
Caledonian times ; and has, by popular tradition and by
some credulous antiquaries, been regarded as a habita-
tion of Fingal. See Clach-na-Ossian.
Dunmore. See Kilcalmonell.
Dunmore, a village and a noble mansion in Airth
parish, Stirlingshire. The village stands on the right
shore of the Forth, 2^ miles NNE of Airth station,
and 8 ESE of Stirling, under which it has a post and
telegraph office. Its small harboiir is a place of call
for the Stirling and Granton steamers. The mansion,
I mile WSW of the village, is a plain castellated
edifice, and stands amid splendid gardens and beauti-
fully wooded grounds, containing and commanding
delightful views. Its private Episcopal chapel, St
Andrew's (1850-51), is a good Early English structure,
with stained-glass windows, monuments to the two last
earls, and an exqirisite marble one to the Hon. Mrs C. A.
Murray, who died in 1851. Beneath the chapel is the
Dunmore mausoleum, and close to it is the tower of the
old Elphinstone castle. Dunmore is the chief Scottish
seat of Charles Adolphus Murray, seventh Earl of Dun-
more since 1686 (b. 1841 ; sue. 1845), who is fifth in
descent from the second son of the first Marquis of
Athole, and who owns in Stirlingshire 4620 acres,
valued at £8923 per annum. See Harris.
Dun, Muir of, a hamlet in Dun parish, Forfarshire,
3 miles N by W of Bridge of Dun Junction. It has fairs
on the first Tuesday of May, old style, and the third
Thursday of June.
Dunmyat, an abrupt commanding hill in the Perth-
shire portion of Logic parish, to the N of the Links
of Fortli, and 3| miles NE of Stirling. A frontier
mass of the Ochils, it projects somewhat from the
contiguous hills, standing out from them like a but-
tress, and presenting to the Carse of the Forth an
acclivity of steeps, precipices, and cliffs ; it consists of
rocks akin to those of the neiglibouring lulls, but
penetrated with large workable veins of barytes ; it
rises to an altitude of 1375 feet above sea-level ; and it
commands, from its summit, a prospect of great extent
and diversity, almost unrivalled in gorgeousness, and
comprehending tlie domain of Airthrey, the vale of the
Devon, Cambuskenneth Abbey, the town and castle of
Stirling, the Carse of the Forth, the luxuriant Lothians,
the fertile strath between the Forth and the Clyde away
to the centre of Clydesdale, the upper basin of the Forth
to the river springs on Ben Lomond, and the peaks and
masses of the frontier Grampians ^nd of the Southern
439
DUNN
Highlands, from the centre of Perthshire all round to
the Peutlands.— Orrf. Sur., sh. 39, 1869. ^
Dunn, a hamlet, with an inn, in Watten parish,
Caithness, near the head of Loch Watten, 9 miles SE
of Thurso.
Dun-na-Feulan or Gull Rocks, two rocky islets near
the cliffs of Sanda island, in Small Isles parish, Argj-11-
shire. Of different magnitudes, hut of similar height,
rising 100 feet above sea-level, they form striking scenic
combinations with surrounding objects ; and, when the
mountains of Rum are swathed in clouds and the inter-
vening sea-sound is lashed into tumult by a storm, their
appearance is singularly grand. One of them is so
slender as to present some resemblance to a steeple ; and
it consists partly of trap rock and jiartly of conglome-
rate, divided from each other by a vertical plane.
Dunnagoil. See Dunagoil.
Dimnechtan. See Dunnichen.
Dimnemarle. See Dunim.\rle.
Dunnet, a village and a parish in the N of Caithness.
The village stands, near the north-eastern corner of
Dunnet Bay, 3 miles NNE of Castletown and 9 ENE
of Thurso by road, only 2^ and 6f by sea ; a little place
with a beautiful southern exposure, it has a post office
under Thurso, an inn, and fairs on the first Tuesday
of April, the last Tuesday of August, and the second
Tuesday of October.
The parish is bounded NW and N by the Pentland
Firth, E by Canisbay, SE by Bower, SW by Bower aud
Olrig, and W by Dunnet Bay. Its utmost length, from
N to S, is 8 miles ; its breadth, from E to W, varies be-
tween 4J furlongs and 6^ miles ; and its area is 17,758:^
acres, of which 383§ are foreshore and 519 water. The
coast-line, about 15 miles in length, is occupied over
more than half that distance by the bold promontory of
Dunnet Head ; comprises a reach of H mile in the
extreme SW of level sand, and a reach of 2^ miles in the
extreme E of low shore accessible at several creeks ; and,
in all other parts is rocky and more or less inaccessible,
Dunnet Bay (3J x 2^ miles) strikes east-south-eastward
from the Pentland Firth, along the SW base of Dunnet
Head, and, extending to the said reach of level sand,
belongs on its southern shore to Olrig parish. Through-
out its connection with Dunnet it affords no shelter for
vessels, but forms there excellent fishing ground for
saithe, flounders, etc., and is sometimes frequented, in
July and August, by shoals of herrings. Dunnet Head,
4 miles long and from If to 3 miles across, goes north-
ward from the vicinity of the village to a semicircular
termination ; and, consisting mainly of a hill ridge
diversified with heights and hollows, it stoops precipi-
tously to the sea all round its coast in broken rocks
from 100 to 306 feet high. It contains at or near the
water line several caves, and is crowned on its extremity
by a lighthouse, erected in 1831 at a cost of £9135,
and showing a fixed light, visible at the distance of 23
nautical miles. The rest of the laud is comparatively low
and flat, attaining only 200 feet above sea-level at Bar-
rock near the Free church, and 216 near Greenland
school. Besides ten little lakes on Dunnet Head, the
largest of them the Loch of Bushtas (3x1 furl.), there
are in the interior St John's Loch (6^ x 4 J furl. ) and Loch
Hailan (8 J x 3J furl.) ; but Loch Syster (If x | mile), on
the Cani^ay border, was drained in 1866 at a cost of
£840, whereby 269 acres of solum were exposed — 150
of them capable of cultivation. Sandstone, of compact
structure suitable for ordinary masonry and for mill-
stones, rollers, and gate posts, forms the main mass of
Dunnet Head ; sandstone-flag, suitable for pavement
and similar to the famous Caithness flag of other parts
of the county, underlies the interior districts ; and both
are extensively quarried. The soil, on Dunnet Head, is
mostly moss, incumbent on moorland-pan ; on the eastern
seaboard, is black loam, overlying sandy clay ; on the
south-western seaboard, round Dunnet village, is a dry,
black, sandy loam ; over 2000 acres eastward of Dunnet
Bay is benty sand or links, formerly in commonage, but
now divided among several farms, and considerably
\othed with herbage ; over 3000 acres in the extreme
440
DUNNICHEN
E is moss, from 2 to 6 feet deep, resting upon blue
clay; and in the southern districts is an argillaceous
loam, incumbent on a bed of clay from 2 to 5 feet
deep. If the entire land surface be classified into 17
parts, about 5 of them are in cultivation, 2 are links, 6
are moss, and 4 are improvable waste. Several of the
ancient structures, usually called Picts' houses, are in the
parish, one of them at Ham being still fairly entire ; in
1873, a cist at Kirk o' Banks yielded 5 penannular silver
armlets, about 3 inches in diameter, which now are in
the Edinburgh Antiquarian Museum. A pre-Roforma-
tion chapel at Dunnet Head and two others in different
localities have left some vestiges. Timothy Pont, the
topographer, was minister during 1601-8. Dunnet is
in the presbyter^y of Caithness and synod of Sutherland
and Caithness ; the living is worth £311. The jiarish
church at the village is ancient, and, repaired and
enlarged in 1837, contains 700 sittings. There is also a
Free church at Barrock, 2J miles to the E. Three public
schools — Dunnet, Cross Roads, and Greenland — with re-
spective accommodation for 100, 185, and 68 children,
had (1881) an average attendance of 115, 54, and 24,
and grants of £91, £48, and £33, 6s. Valuation (1881)
£6237, lis., of which £4343, 18s. belonged to James
Christie Traill, Esq. Pop. (1801) 1366,' (1831) 1906,
(1861) 1861, (1871) 1661, (1881) 1625, of whom 63 were
Gaelic speaking, and 16 tinkers dwelling in caves. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 116, 1S78.
Dunnichen, a village and a parish of Forfarshire.
The village stands If mile E by N of Kingsmuir station,
on the Dundee and Forfar section of the Caledonian
Railway, and 3f miles ESE of its post-town, Forfar.
A great March fair once held at it is now extinct.
The parish, containing also Letham village and Kings-
muir station, is boimded N and NE by Rescobie, E by
Kirkden and Carmyllie, S by the Kirkbuddo section of
Guthrie, SW by Inverarity, W and NW by Forfar.
Its utmost length, from N to S, is 3f miles ; its \vidth,
from E to W, varies between 7§ furlongs and 3g miles ;
and its area is 4922 acres, of which 827| belong to
the DuNBARROW detached section, and 5 are water.
The surface, sinking near Letham to close on 300 feet
above sea-level, thence rises south-westward to 418 near
Craichie, 513 near Fairhead, and 614 near Draffinn ;
and west-north-westward to 764 at Dunnichen Hill, on
the Rescobie border, which, either cultivated or planted
to its summit, was originall)' called Dun-Nechtan, per-
haps after Nectan Morbet, a Pictish king (457-81).
The rivulet Vinney, running from W to E along the
base of Dunnichen Hill, receives some rills in its pro-
gress, and passes into Kirkden, there to fall into the
Lunan. A marsh of some 50 acres in extent, called the
Mire of Dunnichen, and containing an islet on which
the ancient church of Dunnichen is said to have been
built, was drained, and is now under cultivation.
Sandstone, quarried for various purposes, is the pre-
vailing rock ; and the soils, for the most jjart, are
either friable loams with predominance of sand, or
friable clays on retentive bottoms. Fully three-fourths
of the entire area are either regularly or occasionally in
tillage, a little more than one-tenth is under wood, and
the rest is either pastoral or waste. A Caledonian or
Pictish fort, on a low southern shoulder of Dunnichen
Hill, had left some vestiges, which were partly removed
for building dykes, and partly obliterated by a quarry ;
another ancient fort on Dunbarrow Hill is still traceable
in its foundations. In a .sanguinary battle, fought on
the East Mains of Dunnichen, the revolted Picts de-
feated and slew Ecgfrid, the Northumbrian king, re-
covering thus their independence, 20 JMay 685. Their
victory nas left its vestiges in stone-coverod graves, with
urns and human bones, both on the East Mains of Dun-
nichen and in a round gravel knoll near the Den of
Letham. Dunnichen House, near the ^illage, at the
foot of the southern slojie of Dunnichen Hill, is a fine
mansion, beautifully embosomed in trees ; the estate,
purchased about 1700 by a Dundee merchant of tlie name
of Dempster, was greatly improved by the eminent agri-
culturist, 'honest George Dempster,' M. P. Q735-1818),
DTTNNIDEER
and now is held by Lady Dempster-Metcalfe (sue. 1875),
who owns 3970 acres in the shire, valued at £4868 per
annum. Two other proprietors hold each an annual
value of more, and two of less, than £750 ; and there
are, besides, a number of small feuars. Dunnichen
is in the presbytery of Forfar and synod of Angus
and Mearns ; the living is worth £204. The parish
church (1802 ; 456 sittings) stands at Dunnichen
village, and at Letham are Free and Congregational
churches ; whilst three public schools — Craichie, Letham
infant, and Letham mLxed — with respective accommo-
dation for 100, 95, and 200 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 66, 62, and 92, and grants of
£54, 4s., £46, 4s., and £97, ISs. Valuation (1882)
£8421, 10s. lid., plus £472 for railway. Pop. (1801)
1043, (1831) 1513, (1861) 1932, (1871) 1536, (1881)
1422.— Ord Sur., sh. 57, 1868.
Dmmideer, an isolated hill in Insch parish, Aber-
deenshire, 1^ mile W of Insch village. Separated only
by the narrow vale of the Shevock rivulet from Christ's
Kirk Hill (1020 feet) in Kennethmont parish, and stand-
ing nearly in a line with the W end of Foudland (1529)
3 J miles to the N, it rises abruptly in the form of a cone,
a little flattened at the top, to a height of 876 feet above
sea-level, or 470 above the village. It is crowned by
remains of a vitrified fort, and by the fragment of an
ancient tower, -uith walls 7 feet thick and from 50 to
■60 feet high, variously alleged to have been built either
by Grig or Girig, King of the Picts, or by David, Earl
■of Huntingdon.
Dunnikier, a mansion in Kirkcaldy parish, Fife, 3
miles N of Kirkcaldy town. The estate,, comprising
much of the seaboard of Dysart parish and about
seven-eighths of the landward part, of Kirkcaldy, has
belonged since the close of the 17th century to the
Oswalds, a family that has produced an eminent states-
man and a distinguished general in the Right Hon.
James Oswald (c. 1715-80) and Sir John Oswald, G.C. B.
(c. 1770-1840). The son and successor of the latter,
James Townsend Oswald, Esq. (b. 1820), holds 1623
acres in the shire, valued at £4672 per annum, in-
cluding £466 for coal. See Kiekcaldy.
Dunnikier, a hill in Kilconquhar parish, Fife, 3J
miles NNW of Colinsburgh. It rises to an altitude
of 750 feet above sea-level, and commands an extensive
and very brilliant view over much of Fife, and over
parts of the Firths of Forth and Tay, to the Lammer-
muirs, the Sidlaws, and the Grampians.
Diinninald House, a mansion of 1825 in Craig parish,
Forfarshire, ^ mile from the lofty sea-cliffs of Boddin
and 3 miles S by "W of Montrose. The estate (663 acres,
of £2281 annual value) is the property of the daughters
of co-heiresses of the late Patrick Arkley, Esq., — Mary
Charlotte Smyth and Eliza Stansfeld. See Craig.
Dunning (Gael, dunan, 'small fort'), a village and a
parish of Lower Stratheam, SE Perthshire. The vil-
lage stands, 200 feet above sea-level, on Dunning Burn,
near the northern base of the Ochils, If mile SE of
Dunning station on the Scottish Central section of the
Caledonian, this being 4^ miles NE of Auchterarder,
23| NE of Stirling, 60^ NNAV of Edinburgh, 53^ NE
of Glasgow, and 94 "WSW of Perth, under Avhich Dun-
ning has a post ofl&ce, with money order, savings' bank,
and railway telegraph departments. Burned by Mar's
forces in the retreat from Sheriflmuir to Perth, with the
exception of a single house, on 14 Nov. 1715, it now is
a neat little place, held in feu of Lord Rollo, under a
baron-bailie ; and possesses a branch of the Union Bank,
a local saWngs' bank, an hotel, gas-works, a town-hall,
a library and reading-room, a mutual improvement
society (1858), bowling and curling clubs, and a bread
society. A thorn-tree, planted to commemorate its burn-
ing by the Jacobites, and protected by a strong circular
wall, still stands in the centre of the village. Wednes-
day is market-day ; and fairs are held on the last Tues-
day of April, 20 June, and the Monday before the first
Tuesday of October. The parish church contains 1000
sittings, as rebuilt and enlarged in 1810, when only the
tower was spared of the Norman church of St Serf,
DUNNOTTAS
built in the beginning of the 13th century. This, with
its saddle-roof and SW stair-turret, is a very character-
istic structure, tapering upwards in three unequal
stages to a lieight of 75 feet. In the course of recent
repairs, a fine Norman arch between the tower and the
interior of the church, which had been barbarously
bricked up and disfigured, was reopened and restored.
There are also a Free church and a U. P. church ; whilst a
public and an infant and industrial school, with respec-
tive accommodation for 241 and 68 children, had (1880)
an average attendance of 116 and 60, and grants of
£86, 8s. and £50, 6s. Pop. (1841) 1068, (1861) 1105,
(1871)943, (1881)1113.
The parish, containing also the village of Newton of
Pitcaims, is bounded N by Findo-Gask, NE by For-
teviot, E and SE by Forgandenny, S by Orwell in
Kinross and by Fossoway, SW by Glendevon, and W
by Auchterarder. Its utmost length, from N to S, is
6| miles ; its breadth, from E to W, varies between 2J
and 5^ miles ; and its area is 14,928 acres, of which IS J
lie detached, and 73 are water. The Earn, here wind-
ing 3 J miles eastward, roughly traces all the northern
boundary, and here receives Dunning Burn, running 3^
miles north-by-eastward over a gravelly bed ; another
of its affluents, the Water of May, rises on the eastern
slope of John's Hill, at the SW corner of the parish,
and thence flows 4| miles eastward and north-eastward
through the southern interior and along the Forgan-
denny border, till it passes off into Forgandenny. In
the W is triangular White Moss Loch (If x 1^ furl. ),
and in the E the tinier Loch of Montalt (1 x ^ furl.).
Sinking in the NE along the Earn to 34 feet above the
sea, the surface rises southward to the green pastoral
Ochils, and, tolerably level over its northern half, attains
193 feet near 3Iains of Duncrub, 171 near Nether Gar-
vock, 1064 at Rossie Law, 932 near Montalt, 1419 at
Simpleside Hill, 1302 at Skymore Hill, 1337 at Cock
Law, 1558 at Corb Law, and 1500 at John's Hill, the
two last culminating on the Auchterarder border. Trap
rock prevails in the S, sandstone throughout the centre
and the N ; and both have been quarried. The soil is light
and sandy along the Earn, clay or gravel in other arable
tracts, and on the Ochils such as to jield good pasturage
for sheep. A fort is on Rossie Law, a standing stone
near Crofts ; and urns have been found and pieces of
ancient armour. Mansions are Duncrub House, Gar-
vock, Pitcairn, Inverdunning, and Kippen ; and 5 pro-
prietors hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards,
7 of between £100 and £500, 5 of from £50 to £100,
and 15 of from £20 to £50. Dunning is in the presby-
tery of Auchterarder and synod of Perth and Stirling ;
the living is worth £415. Valuation (1882) £13,886,
Is. 3d. Pop. (ISOl) 1504, (1831) 2045, (1861) 2084,
(1871) 1832, (1881) 1635, this singular decrease in the
landward part of the parish being due to the absorption
of small farms into large. — Ord. Sur., shs. 40, 39,
48, 47, 1867-69.
Dunnottsir (anc. Dunfoither ; Gncl. dun-oitir, 'fort of
the low promontory '), a coast parish of Kincardineshire,
containing the fishing village of CraT\-ton and all the old
town of Stonehaven. It is bounded NW and N by
Fetteresso, E by the German Ocean, S by Kinneff, and
SW by Arbuthnott and Glenbervie. Rudely resembling
a triangle in outline, with westward apex, it has an
utmost length from E to W of 5 miles, an utmost
breadth from N to S of 3f miles, and an area of 7884§
acres, of which 16 are foreshore and 86 water. The
coast is rock-bound and precipitous, consisting partly
of detached masses and headlands, but chiefly of a
range of cliffs rising to heights of 100 and 200 feet
above the deep water that washes their base. In its
loftiest portion for about a mile it presents an un-
broken wall-like face, thronged with sea-birds, and hence
called Fowlsheugh ; elsewhere it exhibits fantastic forms
of isolated or creviced rock, several large caverns and
rock-tunnels, and a natural arcade more than 150 yards
long, through the base of a high promontory, which
may be traversed by an ordinary-sized boat. The sea
can be gained from the land only by a few narrow grassy
441
DUNNOTTAR CASTLE
ileclivities that lead down to coves or baylets, fenced by
sunken rocks against access by ships or large boats.
Carron "Water winds 6:^ miles east-by-northward along
all the boundary with Fetteresso ; and the northern
division of the jiarish along its bank forms the eastern
end of the Howe of Mearns — the eastern commencement,
that is, of the great hollow which extends diagonally
across Scotland, and bears in Forfarshire and Perthshire
the name of Strathmore. Otherwise the surface has a
general westward or west-south-westward ascent, to 433
feet near Kittlenaked, 492 at Law of Lumgair, 638 at
Cloch-na Hill, and 700 near Camiont on the Glenbervie
border. The predominant rock is sandstone conglome-
rate, containing nodules of quartz and limestone ; whilst
porphyritic granite forms a stratum at Carmont. Granite
and gneiss boulders are not unfrequent ; columnar basalt
forms part of a ledge of rock at Grawton ; and a build-
ing-stone, known locally as ' red craig,' has been quarried
on a sandstone cliff above Stonehaven Harbour. The
soils are variously clayey, loamy, gravelly, and moorish ;
and they occur, not in separate e.xpanses or in strictly
distinguishable sections, but mixedly in all parts of the
parish, and often on one farm or even in one field.
About three-fifths of the entire area are under cultiva-
tion, rather more than one-fifth is hUl pasture or moor,
and fully one-twelfth is under wood. Dunxottar
Castle is the chief antiquity, others being a cairn at
Carmont and a ' Pict's kiln ' on Lumgair Law. Barras,
the seat once of a branch of the Ogilvies, 3i miles SSW
of Stonehaven, is now a ruin ; and the principal man-
sion is Dunnottar House, 1 mile SW of Stonehaven,
which, built about 1802, is a plain but large edifice,
with gardens formed at a cost of £10,000 and upwards.
Its owner, William Nathaniel Forbes, Esq. (b. 1826 ;
sue. 1851), holds 6528 acres in the shire, valued at
£5494 per annum ; and 2 other proprietors hold each an
annual value of £600 and upwards, 2 of between £100
and £500, 2 of from £50 to £100, and 20 of from £20 to
£50. Dunnottar is in the presbytery of Fordoun and
sjTiod of Angus and Mearns ; the living is worth £308.
The parish church stands by the Carron, 1 mile WSW
of Stonehaven, and was built in 1782 on the site of the
church of St Bridget ; in its graveyard is a stone to the
Covenanters who perished in the Castle, and here it was
that in 1793 Scott met Robert Paterson or ' Old ilor-
tality.' Backmuirhill and Dunnottar public schools,
^^•ith respective accommodation for 94 and 212 children,
liad (18»0) an average attendance of 51 and 209, and
grants of £46, 15s. and £158, 2s. lid. Valuation (1856)
£8294 ; (1882) £12,078, 8s. Id., plus £1384 for railway.
Pop. (1801) 1973, (1831) 1852, (1861) 1828,(1871)2102,
(1881) 2498.— 0/-d Sur., sh. 67, 1871.
Dtumottar Castle, a ruined fortress on the coast of
Dunnottar parish, IJ mile S by E of Stonehaven. It
crowns the flat summit, 4^ acres in extent, of a stupen-
dous rock, which, somewhat resembling that of Edin-
burgh Castle, is all but severed from the mainland by a
chasm, and on all other sides rises sheer from the sea to
a height of 160 feet. The ancient capital of the Mearns,
this natural stronghold figures early in history, for, in
681, we hear of the siege of ' Dunfoithir' by Bruidhe,
King of the Picts, and, in 894, of a second siege under
Turan, his successor. Then, in 900, Donald, King of
Alban, was cut off liere and slain by the Danes ; and, in
934, Aethelstan, ravaging Scotland with his land forces,
penetrated so far as Dunnottar. Of much lafcer date,
however, is the present castle, which, from its situation
and extent, forms one of the most majestic ruins in the
kingdom, and which, prior to the era of artillery, must
have been well-nigh impregnable. The only approach to
it is by a steep path winding round the body of the rock,
which has been scarped and rendered inaccessible by
art. The entrance is through a gate, in a wall about 40
feet high ; whence, by a long passage, partly arched
over, and through another gate pierced with four ccilettes
or loop-holes, the area of tlie castle is reached. This
passage was formerly strengthened by two iron portcul-
lises. The area is surrounded by an embattled wall,
and occupied by buildings of very different ages, which,
442
DUNRDTTAR CASTLE
though dismantled, are, for the most part, tolerably
entire, wanting but roofs and floors. The oldest, with
the exception of the chapel, is a square tower said to
have been built towards the close of the 14th century.
A large range of lodging-rooms and offices, with a long
gallery of 120 feet, appears to be comparatively modern
— not older than the latter end of the 16th century.
There are ruins of various other buildings and conveni-
ences necessary or proper for a garrison, such as barracks,
a basin or cistern of water 20 feet in diameter, a bowling-
green, and a forge said to have been used for casting
iron bullets. The building now called the chapel was at
one time the parish church ; for, notwithstanding its
difficulty of access, the church, and even the churchyard
of the parish, were originally situated on this rock. Sir
William Keith, Great Marischal of Scotland, made an ex-
cambion of certain lands in the counties of Fife and Stir-
ling with William de Lindsay, Lord of the BjTes, for part
of the lands of Dunnottar ; and tlie natural strength of its
rock led him to build a castle on it as a refuge for
himself and his friends during those troublous times.
But, to avoid offence, he first built a church for the
parish in a more convenient place ; notwithstanding
which, the Bishop of St Andrews excommunicated him
for violation of sacred ground. Sir William, on this,
applied to Pope Benedict XIII., setting forth the exi-
gency of the case, and the necessity of such a fortress,
with the circumstance of his having built another
church ; on which his holiness issueil a bull, dated 18
July 1394, directing the bishop to take off the excom-
munication, and to allow Sir William to enjoy the
castle at all times, on the pa}Tnent of a certain recom-
pense to the church ; after which it continued in the
Keith family till the forfeiture of the last Earl in 1716.
Prior to this, however, a castle of Dunnottar is said
to have been taken about 1296 by Sir William Wallace,
who burned 4000 Englishmen in it. Blind Harry gives
the following lively account of this achievement : —
'The Eug^lishmen, that durst them not abide.
Before the host full fear'dly forth they flee
To Dunnotter, a swako within the sea.
No further they might win out of the land.
They 'sembled there while they were four thousand.
Ran to the kirk, ween'd girth to have tane,
The lave reraain'd upon the rock of staue.
The bishop there began to treaty ma,
Their lives to get, out of the land to ga ;
But they were rude, and durst not well.
Wallace in fire gart set all hastily,
Burnt up the kirk and all that was therein.
Attour the rock the lave ran with great diu ;
Some hung on crags, right dolefully to dee,
Some lap, some fell, some fluttered in the sea.
No Southern in life was left in that hold,
And them within they burnt to powder cold.
When this was done, fell fell on their knees down,
At the bishop asked absolution.
When Wallace leugh, said, I forgive j-ou all ;
Are ye war-men, repent ye for so small ?
They rued not us into the town of Air,
Our true barons when they hanged there ! '
In 1336, too, we hear of the castle of Dunnottar being
refortified by Edward III. in his progress through Scot-
land ; but scarce had he quitted the kingdom when it
was retaken by Sir Andrew Moray, the Regent of Scot-
land. No further event of historic interest occurred for
man}' centuries afterwards, during which it was the
chief seat of the Marischal family. But, in the time of the
Great Rebellion it was besieged by the Marquis of Mon-
trose, the Earl Marischal of that day being a stanch
Covenanter. The Earl had immured himself in his
castle, along with many of his partisans, including 16
Covenanting clergymen who had here sought refuge
from Montrose. The Earl would have come to terms
but for this ministerial party, and the Marquis at onco
subjected his property to military execution. Stone-
liaven and Cowie, which belonged to the vassals of the
Earl Marischal, were burned ; the woods of Fetteresso
shared the same fate ; and the whole of the lands in the
vicinity were ravaged. Tlie Earl is said to have deeply
regretted liis rejection of Montrose's terms, when he
beheld the smoke ascending from his property ; ' but
the famous Andrew Cant, who was among the number
DUNOLLY
of his ghostly company, edified his resolution at once
to its original pitch of iirmness, by assuring him that
that reek would be a sweet-smelling incense in the
nostrils of the Lord, rising, as it did, from property
which had been sacrificed to the holy cause of the
Covenant.'
At Dunnottar Castle, in 1650, William, seventh Earl
Marischal, entertained Charles II. ; and in the following
year it was selected by the Scots Estates and Privy
Council as the strongest place in the kingdom for the
preservation of the regalia from the Englisli army,
which then overran the country. These being here
deposited, the Earl obtained a garrison, with an order
for suitable ammunition and provisions. Cromwell's
troops, under command of Lambert, besieged the castle,
which was put under command of George Ogilvy of
Barras, in the parish of Dunnottar, as lieutenant-
governor ; the Earl himself having joined the king's
forces in England. Ogilvy did not surrender until the
siege had been converted into a blockade, when he was
reduced by famine and a consequent mutiny in the gar-
rison. He had previously, however, removed the
regalia by a stratagem on account of which he was
long imprisoned in England. Mrs Granger, wife of
the minister of Kinneff, had requested permission of
Major-General Morgan, who then commanded the be-
sieging army, to visit Mrs Ogilvy, the lady of the
Lieutenant-Governor. Having gained admission, she
packed up the crown among some clothes, and carried it
out of the castle in her lap, whilst the sword and
sceptre seemed to have formed a sort of distaff for a
mass of lint which, like a thrifty Scots matron, she
was busily spinning into thread. The English general
very politely assisted the lady to mount her horse ; and
her husband that night buried the regalia under the
flags of his church, where they remained till the Restor-
ation, in 1660, when they were delivered to Mr George
Ogilvy, who presented them to Charles II. For this
good service, with his long imprisonment and loss of
property, Ogilvy received no farther mark of royal
favour or reward than the title of Baronet and a new
coat-of-arms. Sir John Keith, brother to the Earl
Marischal, was created Earl of Kintore ; but honest Mr
Granger and his wife had neither honour nor reward.
Dunnottar was used, in the year 1685, from early in
May till towards the end of July, as a state prison for
167 Covenanters, men and women, who had been seized
at different times in the W of Scotland, during the per-
secution under Charles II. In the warmest season of
the year they were all barbarously thrust into a vault,
still called 'The Whigs' Vault,' where 9 of them died.
About 25, in a state of desperation, crept one night from
the window, along the face of the awful precipice, in the
hope of escaping ; but two of these perished in the
attempt, and most of the others were captured, and
subjected to horrible tortures. In 1720 the dilapidated
estate of George, tenth Earl, was sold to the York
Building Company for £41,172, and Dunnottar Castle
dismantled ; but in 1761 the Earl repurchased it, to
sell it, however, in 1766, to Alexander Keith, writer in
Edinburgh, who, as exercising the office of Knight-
Marischal of Scotland in 1822, was created a Baronet by
George IV. Dunnottar went to his daughter, and, at
her death in 1852, to her son. Sir Patrick Keith-Murray
of Ochtertyre, with whom it remained till 1875, when it
Avas purchased by Alexander Innes, Esq. of Raemoir
and Cowie. See James Napier's Stonehaven and its
Historical Associations, being a Guide to Dunnottar
Castle, etc. (Stoneh. 1870).
Dunolly, an estate, with an ancient castle and a
modem mansion, in Kilmore and Kilbride parish,
Argyllshire. The ancient castle, crowning a precipitous
rocky promontory between Oban Bay and the mouth
of Loch Etive, 9 furlongs NNW of Oban town, is be-
lieved to have taken its name, signifying ' the fortified
hill of Olaf,' from some ancient Scandinavian prince or
king ; and occupies a romantic site, well adapted by its
natural character for military defence. Originally per-
haps a rude fortalice, altered or extended in the course
DUNOON
of centuries into a strong castle, it dates in record
so early as the 7th century, but retains no masonry
earlier than the latter part of the 12th ; as long the
principal seat of the Macdougalls, Lords of Lorn, figures
boldly in old history and in curious legend ; and is
now a gloomy, lonely, fragmentary ruin. ' The prin-
cipal part of it which remains,' says Sir Walter Scott,
' is the donjon or keep ; but fragments of other build-
ings, overgrown with ivy, attest that it had once been
a place of importance, as large apparently as Artornish
or DunstaS"nage. These fragments enclose a courtyard,
of which the keep probably formed one side, the en-
trance being by a steep ascent from the neck of the
isthmus, formerly cut across by a moat, and defended
doubtless by outworks and a drawbridge.' An eagle,
kept chained within the rrin, was seen by the poet
Wordsworth in 1831, and forms the subject of a stinging
sonnet from his pen. A stalactite cavern was acci-
dentally discovered, about 1830, in what long had been
garden ground contiguous to the base of the castle rock ;
was ascertained to have had an entrance which had
been blocked by a wall ; and was found to contain many
human bones, some bones of several of the lower animals,
pieces of iron, remains of broadswoi'ds, and a few defaced
coins. Thomas Brydson, in his Pictures of the Past,
says respecting Dunolly Castle —
' The breezes of this vernal day
Come whisp'ring through thine empty hall,
And stir, instead of tapestry,
The weed upon the wall,
' And bring from out the murm'ring sea.
And bring from out the vocal wood,
The sound of Nature's joy to thee,
Mocking thy solitude.
' Yet proudly, 'mid the tide of years.
Thou lift'st on high thine airy form.
Scene of primeval hopes and fears.
Slow yielding to the storm !
' From thy grey portal, oft at morn,
The ladies and the squires would go ;
While swell'd the hunter's bugle-horn
In the green glen below ;
' And minstrel harp, at starry night.
Woke the high strain of battle here.
When, with a wild and stern delight.
The warriors stooped to hear.
" All fled for ever ! leaving nought
Save lonely walls in ruin green,
Which dimly lead my wandering thought
To moments that have been.'
Modern Dunolly Castle, a little to the N, is a fine
edifice, embosomed among wood, and contains the
famous Brooch of Lorn, taken from Robert Bruce in
the skirmish of Dairy, with several other curious relics
of antiquity. The estate belonged to the Macdougalls
from very early times ; was forfeited for participation
in the '15, but restored just before the outbreak of the
'45 ; and now is held by Lieut. -Col. Charles Allan Mac-
Dougall of MacDougall.(b. 1831 ; sue. 1867), who owns
3339 acres in the shire, valued at £1302 per annum.
One of its proprietors fell in the Peninsular Campaign ;
another, in 1842, steered the barge of Queen Victoria
through Loch Tay, in her progress from Taymouth to
Drummond Castle.
Dunoon, a favourite watering-place and a parish of
Cowal district, Argyllshire. The town extends more than
3 miles along the western shore of the Firth of Clyde,
from the entrance of Holy Loch south-south-westward
to beyond West or Balgay Bay, and consists of Hunter's
Quay to the N, Kirn, and Dunoon proper to the S. Each
has its separate steamboat pier, that of Hunter's Quay
being 6 miles WNW of Greenock and f mile N of Kirn's,
which is 1 mile NNE of Dunoon's, which again is If mile
W by N of Cloch Lighthouse, 11 miles NNW of Largs,
and 11 NNE of Rothesay. Old Dunoon arose beneath
the shadow of an ancient castle, which, crowning a small
rocky headland between the East and West Bays, is
supposed by some antiquaries to have been founded by
dim Dalriadic chieftains in the early years of the 6th
443
DUNOON
century, ami later to have been held by Scandinavian
rovers. However that may be, from the reign of Mal-
colm Ceannmor (1058-93) this castle was the seat of the
Lord High Stewards of Scotland, on the accession of
the sixth of whom, Robert, to the throne in 1370, it
became a royal palace, under the hereditary keepershi}i
of the Campbells of Lochow, ancestors of the Duke of
Argyll. By royal charter of 1472 Colin, Earl of Argyll,
Lome, and Cami^bell, obtained for himself certain lands
around the Castle of Dunoon, which in 1544 was be-
sieged and taken by Lennox, the would-be regent, and
on 26 July 1563 received a visit from Mary Queen of
Scots. In 1646 it was the scene of a cruel atrocity
wrought by the Campbells on the Laments of Cowal
and Bute, thirty-six of whom were most traitorously
carried from the houses of Escog and Castle-Toward to
the village of Dunoon, and there were hanged on an
ash-tree at the kirkyard. 'Insomuch that the Lord
from heaven did declare his wrath and displeasure by
striking the said tree immediately thereafter, so that
the whole leaves fell from it, and the tree %vithered,
which being cut down there sprang out of the very heart
of the root thereof a spring like unto blood, popling up,
and that for several years, till the said murderers or
their favourers did cause howk out the root.' Hence-
forward the castle, which seems to have covered an acre
of ground, and to have had three towers, was left to
utter neglect, its stones abstracted for neighbouring
cottages, so that now its bare outline can hardly be
traced, though the greensward of course is imagined to
cover a perfect labyrinth of vaults. Hard by, on the
site now occupied by the parish church, stood the castle
chapel — a nunnery in popular belief ; and also near were
the butts or cuspars, the gallows' hill, and a moat-hill
(Gael. Tom-a-inlioid). As the castle decayed, so too
decayed the village of Dunoon, in spite of its being the
regular ferry between Cowal and Renfrewshire and an
occasional resort of invalids for the beneiit of drinking
goat's whey. The year 1822 found it a Highland
clachan, with a church, a manse, three or four slated
cottages, and a sprinkling of thatched cottages or huts.
But in that year the late James Ewing, Esq., LL. D.,
purchased a feu here, and buUt thereon the handsome
marine villa called, from the neighbouring castle, Castle
House ; and it was not long before others followed his
lead, steam navigation having by this time brought
Dunoon •within comparatively easy reach of Glasgow.
Fringing the sweeping curves of East and West — or
Milton and Balgay — Bays, modern Dunoon stands partly
on the low platform of the Firth's old sea-margin, partly
on gentle ascents, with immediate background of broken,
heather-clad braes, and, beyond, of the Cowal heights.
The whole exhibits a charming indifference to town-like
regularity, villas and cots being blended with gardens
and trees ; sea, wood, and mountain being all within
easy access ; and the views of the Clyde and its basin
being wide as they are lovely, from the Castle Hill
embracing parts of the five shires of Renfrew, Dum-
barton, Ayr, Argyll, and Bute. Good bathing-ground
occurs at Balgay Bay ; boats may be had for hire ; and
the excursions alike by land and by water comprise not
a little of Scotland's fairest scenery.
To descend to details, the town has two post offices of
Dunoon and Kirn, with money order, savings' bank,
and telegraph departments, branches of the Clydesdale
and Union Banks, 21 insurance agencies, 10 hotels, a
gas company, an excellent water supply, fed by a reser-
voir with storage capacity of 45,000,000 gallons, agricul-
tural and horticultural societies, a capital bowling-green,
fairs on the third Thursday of January and February,
and three weekly papers — the Independent Saturday
Argijllshire Standard (18"0), the Independent Wednes-
day Coival Watchman (1876), and tlie Liberal Saturday
Dunoon Herald and Cowal Advertiser (1876). Tlie
Burgh Buildings, erected in 1873-74 at a cost of £4000,
are a two-storied Scottish Baronial pile, and contain the
municipal offices, with a hall that, measuring 73^ by
35A feet, can accommodate 500 persons, and is adorned
with a stained-glass window. A fine stone edifice,
444
DUNOON
Romanesque in style, and originally erected at a cost of
£11,000 for a hydropathic establishment, was, thanks
to Miss Beatrice Clugston of Leuzie, opened in 1S69 as
the West of Scotland Convalescent Sea-side Homes.
Fitted with splendid baths, and accommodating 150
inmates, as enlarged by a new wing in 1880 at a cost of
£8000, these Homes have hitherto (1882) been the
means of restoring 19,000 invalids to health ; on 5 Aug.
1872 they were honoured with a visit by the Princess
Louise and the Marquis of Lome. A skating rink,
with asphalte floor, 118 feet long and 60 wide, was
opened in 1876. The first wooden steamboat jetty
formed by a private joint stock company in 1835 prov-
ing insufficient, the present pier, with waiting-rooms
and separate allotment for vehicle traffic, was built a
few years ago by the late Mr Hunter of Hafton ; it ex-
tends 390 feet into the water, which at its head has a
depth of about 4 fathoms. Kirn pier is of similar con-
struction ; whilst Hunter's Quay is a stone erection of
1828, with a projection and slip, and, near it, the Royal
Clyde Yacht Club-house. In 1880 a broad esplanade,
protected by a breast-wall, was formed along the northern
shore of Balgay Bay at a cost of £500 ; beyond, spanning
Balgay Burn, is the Victoria Bridge (1878). The parish
church, built in 1816, and enlarged in 1834 and 1839,
is a good Gothic edifice, with 838 sittings, and a
massive square pinnacled tower ; in its graveyard are
time-worn tombstones to the Rev. John Cameron and
Andrew Boyd, Bishoj) of Lismore, bearing date 1623 and
1636. The Free chuixh, dating from 1843, was rebuilt
(1876-77) in the French Gothic style at a cost of £10,000 ;
and a Free Gaelic church is the old U.P. church of 182S,
converted to its present purpose in 1875, in which year
the U.P. body built a handsome new Gothic church at
a cost of £5000. A Scottish Episcopal church. Holy
Trinity, Early English in style, with nave, chancel, anil
stained-glass windows, was biult in 1850 ; a Roman
Catholic church, St Mun's, in 1863. Other places of
worship are an English Episcopal cliurch and a Baptist
chapel, both open only during the summer months ;
\i\ih. a. quoad sacra and a U.P. church (1863) at Kirn.
The beautiful cemetery, 2 acres in extent, contains the
graves of Robert Buchanan of Ardfillajme (1785-1873),
professor of logic in Glasgow University, and the late
James Hunter, Esq. of Hafton (d. 1855) ; but at Greenock,
not here at her birthplace, rests Mary Cameron, Burns's
'Highland Mary' (d. 1786). Dunoon public, Kim pub-
lic, and Dunoon Free Cliurch schools, with respective
accommodation for 200, 118, and 180 children, had
(1880) an average attendance of 171, 79, and 142 chil-
dren, and grants of £132, 12s., £80, 4s., and £115, 13s.
Since 1868 a burgh, with Kirn and Hunter's Quay, under
the General Police and Improvement Act, Dunoon is
governed by a senior and two junior magistrates, and by
9 other police commissioners. The municipal constitu-
ency numbered 944 in 1882, when the bui-gh valuation
amounted to £68,963, whilst the revenue including
assessments for 1881 was £3400. Pop. (1844) 1296,
(1861) 2968, (1871) 3756, (1881) 4680— a number raised
by summer visitors to upwards of 7000.
The ])arish comprises the ancient parishes of Dunoon
and Kilmun, and, besides the town and suburbs of
Dunoon, contains the post-office villages of Sandbank,
Kilmun, Stiioxe, Blaikmoue, Akdentinny, and
Inkllan. It is bounded N by Strachur, NE by Loch-
goilhead, E by Loch Long and the Firth of Clyde, S by
the Kyles of Bute, W by Inverchaolain, and NW by
Kilmodan. Its utmost length is 16:^ miles from N to
S, viz., from Wliistlefield inn to Toward Point; its
breadth, from E to W, varies between 2 and 76 miles ;
and its land area is 44,595 acres. The coast-line, reach-
ing from 1^ mile NNEofGlenfinart to opposite Rotliesay,
extends about 23 miles — 7 along Loch Long, 5 around
Holy Loch, 9 along the Firtli of Clyde, and 2 along the
KvLEs OF Bute. It is everywhere bordered witli the
low green ]tlatform of the old sea-margin, a natural
terrace thickly fringed with town and village and plea-
sant mansion, and backed by hills or mountains. The
3 lower miles of narrow Loch EcK belong to Kilmun ; and
DUNOON
DUNROD
from its foot the Eachaig river winds 5{ miles south-
south-eastward to the head of Holy Loch, and receives
by the way the Massen and Little Eachaig, the former
running 8| miles southward and south-eastward through
the interior, the latter 4^ miles east-north-eastward
along the boundary of Kilmun with Inverchaolain and
Dunoon. Dunoon is not so mountainous as Kilmun,
its chief elevations from S to N being Indian Hill (935
feet), Ben Ruadh (1057), Garrowehorran Hill (1115),
Corlorach Hill (1371), Kilbride Hill (1294), Horse Seat
(1282), the Badd (1215), *Bishop's Seat (1651), Dunan
(575), Strone Saul (993), Finbracken Hill (649), and
Dalinlongart Hill (643) ; whilst in Kilmun rise Kilmun
Hill (1535), Stronchullin Hill (1798), Ben Ruadh
(2178), *Creachan Mor (2156), and Cruach a' Bhuie
(2084) to the E of the Eachaig and Loch Eck, and, to
the W thereof, Ballochyle Hill (1253), Clachaig Hill
(1708), Sgarach Mor (1972), A' Chruach (1570), Clach
Beinn (2109), and Bexmore (2433), where asterisks
mark those summits that culminate on the confines of
the parish. Clay slate, greenish, greyish, or bluish in
hue, sometimes finely laminated and firmly grained, is a
predominant rock, and has been quarried for roofing
purposes on Toward estate and near the town of Dunoon.
Highly indurated mica slate, traversed by veins of com-
pact quartz and contorted into every variety of curve,
is still more prevalent, forming by far the greater portion
of the ancient parish of Dunoon, and passing into clay
slate in the southern part of Kilmun Hill. Silurian
rock, course -grained and merging out of junction with
clay slate, occurs at Strone Point and Toward ; whilst
Old Red sandstone skirts the shore from Inellan to
within about a mile of Toward Castle, and has been
quarried, at different periods, for building purposes.
Limestone, in small quantity and here and there of
quality akin to marble, occurs contiguous to the Old
Red sandstone, which near Toward Point is traversed
by dykes of trap ; and serpentine, taking a high polish,
is fairly plentiful on the coast near Inellan. The soils
are generally light and shallow, consisting chiefly of
humus, sandy gravel, or sandy loam. Great agricul-
tural improvements have lately been elfected, especially
on the Benmore estate, where and at Castle Toward
hundreds of acres have been planted with millions of
trees. On Ardnadam farm is a cromlech ; ancient stone
coffins have been found in various places ; an artifi-
cial mound, 90 by 73 feet, and 10 feet high, on Ardin-
slat farm, is supposed to have been formed by the
Romans ; and Kilmun has interesting ecclesiastical anti-
quities. The principal mansions, all separately noticed,
are Castle-Toward, Hafton House, Benmore House, and
Glenfinart House ; and 6 proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 32 of between £100 and
£500, 99 of from £50 to £100, and 360 of from £20 to
£50. Dunoon is the seat of a presbytery in the synod
of Argyll ; and the civil parish is divided ecclesiastically
among Dunoon-Kilmun itself (a living worth £426) with
the chapelries of Strone and Toward, and the following
quoad sacra parishes, with date of erection as such —
Ardentinny (1874), Inellan (1873), Kirn (1874), and
Sandbank (1876). The seven schools, all of them public
but the last, of Ardentinny, Inellan, Kilmun, Rashfield,
Sandbank, Toward, and Glenloan, with total accom-
modation for 655 children, had (1880) an average at-
tendance of 386, and grants amounting to £375, 17s.
Valuation (1860) £34,889, (1882) £80,774, 16s. 6d.
Pop. (1801) 1750, (1831) 2416, (1841) 4211, (1861)5461,
(1871) 6871, (1881) 8003.— Ord Sur., sh. 29, 1873.
See S. Martin's Guide to Dunoon (Dunoon, 1881).
The presbytery of Dunoon comprises the old parishes
of Dunoon and Kilmun, Inverchaolain, Kilfinan, Kil-
modan, Kingarth, Rothesay, Lochgoilhead and Kil-
morich, and Stralachlan and Strachur, the quoad ormiia
parish of North Bute, the quoad sacra parishes of New
Rothesay, Ardentinny, Inellan, Kim, and Sandbank,
and the chapelries of Strone, Toward, Kilbride, Tigh-
nabruaich, and Rothesay-Gaelic. Poj). (1871) 21,627,
(1881) 23,711, of whom 3102 were communicants of the
Church of Scotland in 1S78. — The Free Church has a
presbytery of Dunoon, with 3 churches in Rothesay,
2 in Dunoon, 2 in Kingarth, and 8 at respectively
Inellan, Kilfinan, Kilmodan, Kilmun, North Bute,
Sandbank, Strachur, and Tighnabruaich, which together
had 3237 members in 1881.
Dunpender. See TitAniAix.
Dunragit, a hamlet and a mansion on the W border
of Old Luce parish, Wigtownshire. The hamlet lies
near a station of its own name on the Castle-Douglas
and Portpatrick railway, 3;^ miles W of Glenluce, and
has a post and telegraph office. To the S of the station
is the Mote of Dunragit, a roundish eminence, now
overgrown with whins ; and to the N, on the hillside,
stands Dunragit House, a modern edifice, a seat of John
Charles Cuninghame, Esq. of Craigends.
Dunreggan. See Moniaive.
Dun-Richnan. See Dores.
Dunrobin Castle, the Scottish seat of the Duke of
Sutherland, in Golspie parish, Sutherland, on a terrace
overlooking the sea, near a private station on the High-
land railway, 1|- mile NE of Golspie, and 4^ WSW of
Brora. It boasts to be the oldest inhabited house in the
kingdom, founded in 1098 or 1275 by Robert, Thane or
Earl of Sutherland, after whom it received its name, but
of whom history knows absolutely nothing ; the greater
portion of it, however, ismodern, built by the secondDuke
between 1845 and 1851. It thus forms two piles con-
joint with one another, and together constituting a solid
mass of masonry, 100 feet square, and 80 feet high. The
ancient pile on the seaward side is a plain but dignified
specimen of the old Scottish Baronial architecture. The
new is very much larger than the old, and, blending the
features of German schloss, French chateau, and Scottish
fortalice, makes a goodly display of oriel windows, battle-
ments, turrets, and pinnacles ; whilst its great entrance-
tower, at the north-eastern angle, is 28 feet square and 135
high. Internally, the castle is arranged in suites distin-
guished by the names of different members or relations of
the family, as the Duke's, the Argyll, the Blantj^re, and
the Cromartie Rooms, the last so called after George, the
Jacobite third Earl of Cromartie, who here was made
prisoner by the Sutherland militia, 15 April 1746.
Each of these suites comprises a complete set of sitting
and bed rooms, and is decorated in a style of its own ;
and that on the seaward front is separated from the
others by a wide gallery or passage, is adorned and fur-
nished in the most costly and elegant manner, com-
mands from a bedroom oriel window a wide and magnifi-
cent view, and was set apart for the use of the Queen
so long ago as 1851. From one cause and another Her
Majesty's visit was postponed till September 1872, when
it fell to her to lay the foundation stone of a monument
to her late mistress of the robes, the second Duchess
(1806-68). A beautiful Eleanor cross, 40 feet high, with
a bronze bust by Noble, this monument, finished in
1874, crowns a slight eminence to the right of the prin-
cipal avenue. Prior to the Queen's visit, Dunrobin had
twice received the Prince and the Princess of Wales —
in 1866 and 1871. Very fine flower gardens, between a
terrace (100 yards long) and the sea, are reached by suc-
cessive broad flights of steps ; behind is the beautiful
park, in which are two 'brochs' or dry-built circular
towers. One of these, being excavated by the Rev. Dr
Joass, yielded two little plates of brass, the one oblong,
the other semicircular (Mr Joseph Anderson, Rhiud
Lecture, 31 Oct. 1881). Both castle and grounds are
accessible to the public. George Granville William
Sutherland-Leveson-Gower, present and third Duke (b.
1828; sue. 1861), holds 1,176,343 acres, or more than
nine-tenths of the shire, valued at £56,396 per annum.
See Sutherland, Cromarty, and Bex-a-Bhragie. —
Ord- Sur., sh. 103, 1878.
Dunrod, an ancient parish on the coast of Kirkcud-
brightshire, united about the year 1663 to Kirkcudbright,
and now forming the southern part of that parish. Its
name signifies 'a red hill,' and seems to have been de-
rived from an oblong reddish-coloured hill adjacent to
tlio site of its church. This, with its fragment of a
Norman fort, stood 4 miles SSE of Kii-kcudbright town,
DUNEOD
and measured 30 feet iu length and 15 in breadth. The
churchyard is still in use, and has a circular form.
Dunrod, an ancient barony in Innerkip parish, Ren-
frewshire, taking name from a hill to the E of Kip
Water, and traversed by a bum of its ovm name. The
hill culminates 2 miles ENE of Innerkip village, and,
rising to an altitude of 936 feet above sea-level, figures
conspicuously in the gathering grounds of the Greenock
water-works. The burn belongs naturally to the basin
of the Kip, but flows eastward into one of the reser\-oirs
of the Greenock water-works ; and it is spanned, at a point
1^ mile ENE of Innerkip village, by a curious and very
ancient bridge, supposed to be Roman. The barony be-
longed to Sir John de Lindsay, Bruce's accomplice in
the Red Comyn's murder (1306), and remained with his
descendants till 1619, when it was sold to Archibald
Stewart of Blackball by Alexander Lindsay of Dunrod,
who from the haughtiest baron in tlie West country sunk
to a warlock beggar, selling fair winds to fishermen and
sea-captains, and died at last in a barn. An old rhyme
6ays of him —
' In Innerkip the witches ride thick,
And in Dunrod they dwell ;
But the greatest loon among them a'
Is auld Dunrod himsel.'
See pp. 31-39 of Gardner's Wemyss Bay, Innerkip, etc.
(Paisley, 1879).
Dunrossness, a parish in the S of Shetland, containing
the hamlet of Boddam, near tlie head of a long voe, on
the E coast, 7 miles N of Sumburgh Head, and 20 SSW
of Lerwick, under which there is a post office of Dun-
rossness, with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph
departments. There are also post ofiices at Connings-
burgh, Virkie, Fair Isle, and Sandwick, the last with
telegraph department.
The parish comprises the ancient parishes of Dimross-
ness, Sandwick, and Conningsburgh ; and, besides a
large tract of Mainland, includes a number of islands.
The Mainland portion is bounded on the N by Quartf,
and on all other sides by the sea, extending south-
ward to Sumburgh Head ; and measuring in straight
line, from N to S, about 18 miles. The chief islands are
Mousa, in the NE ; Fair Isle, far to the S ; and Colsay
and St Ninians on the W. The coasts are rocky and
unecpial ; and the principal bays or creeks are Quendale
Voe, West Voe, Grutness, and Aiths Voe. Sumburgh
Head rises boldly in the extreme S of Mainland, and
is crowned by a lighthouse, showing a fixed light,
visible at the distance of 22 nautical miles. Fitful
Head, as bold and loftier, rises on the N side of
Quendale Voe, 5| miles NNW of Sumburgh Head.
The interior consists largely of bleak mossy hills ;
and in the S end, much of what formerly was
arable land has been destroyed by sand drifts ; yet a
considerable aggregate of moss and moor lias been
brought into a state of pasture or tillage by processes of
reclamation. The rocks of the western half are claystone
slate, of the eastern secondary sandstone ; and at Sand-
lodge is Scotland's one active copper mine, from which,
in 1879, were raised 778 tons of copper ore, valued at
£2723. Several small lakes, abounding with fish, are
dotted over the surface ; and the neighbouring seas
yield to the crofters a richer harvest than their fields.
Between 1872 and 1877 three Runic and two Ogham in-
scriptions were discovered near the ancient burying-
ground of Conningsburgh church, which, dedicated
to either St Paul or Columba, stood close to the seashore,
a little E of the present Free church. Inland is tlie
broch of Aithsetter, and across the bay to the south-
ward is the more celebrated broch of MousA (Procs. Soc.
Ants. Scotl. 1879, pp. 145-156). Two proprietors divide
moat of the land, 1 other holding an annual value of
between £100 and £500, 1 of from £50 to £100, and
above 40 of less than £50. In the presbytery of Lerwick
and synod of Shetland, this parish is divided quoad
sacra into Sandwick and Dunrossness, the latter a
living worth £29i). Its church, built in 1790, contains
858 sittings. There are also Free churches of Dunross-
ness and Conningsburgh, and Baptist and Wesleyan
446
DUNSCORE
chapels of Dunrossness. Eight public schools have
been recently built in the civil parish, at Connings-
burgh, Sandwick, Bigtown, Levenwick, Boddam, Quen-
dale, Virkie, and Fair Isle, with respective accommoda-
tion for 90, 130, 80, 60, 110, 60, 70, and 40 children.
Valuation (1881) £3728, 8s. 9d. Pop. of civil parish
(1801) 3201, (1831) 4405, (1861) 4830, (1871) 4522 ; of
registration district (1871) 1970, (1881) 1604.
Dunsappie, a small lake (233 x 67 yards) at the E
border of Canongate parish, Edinburghshire, on the de-
pressed E shoulder of Arthur's Seat, contiguous to the
most easterly reach of the Queen's Drive, 3 furlongs
E by N of the summit of Arthur's Seat, and IJ mile
by road SE of Holyrood Palace. It lies 360 feet above
sea-level, amid grounds on which Prince Charles Ed-
ward's army encamped both before and after the battle
of Prestonpans ; it points the way of the easiest ascent
to the summit of Arthur's Seat ; and, in ^vinter, being
one of the first places to bear, is often crowded with
skaters.
Dunscaith, a ruined baronial fortalice on the W coast
of Sleat parish, Isle of Skye, Inverness-shire. It be-
longed to the Barons of Sleat, and seems, from remains
of a prison and of a draw-well, to have been a place of
considerable strength.
Dunscore (Gael, dun-sgoir, 'fort of the sharp rock'),
a village and a parish of Nithsdale, W Dumfriesshire.
The village, Dunscore or Cottack, standing 3 furlongs
from the Cairn's left bank, and 320 feet above sea-level,
is 4 J miles WSW of Auldgirth, and 9 NW of Dumfries,
under which it has a post office.
The parish is bounded N by Glencairn and Keir, NE
by Kirkmahoe, S by Holywood and Kirkpatrick-Dur-
hani in Kirkcudbrightshire, and W by Balmaclellan,
also in Kirkcudbrightshire ; and by Glencairn and Holy-
wood it is all but cut into two separate halves, eastern
and western, at a point on the Cairn, IJ mile SW of the
village. Its utmost length, from E to W, is 11 J miles ; its
breadth varies from barely 150 yards to 3 J miles ; and its
area is 14,923^ acres, of which 108^ are water. The Nith
winds 2J miles south-south-eastward along the boundary
with Kirkmahoe ; Cairn Water courses 2^ miles south-
ward along that with Glencairn, next for 150 yards across
the belt connecting the two halves, and lastly 1§ mile
along the Holywood border ; whilst from Balmaclellan
Dunscore is separated by Loch Urr (5x4 furl.) and Urr
Water, flowing 1| mile southward therefrom. Through
the western half Glenessland Bm'u runs i\ miles east-
north-eastward to the Cairn ; through the eastern, Lag-
gan Burn 5| to the Nith. The surface sinks along the
Nith to 80, along the Cairn to 195, and along the Urr
to close on 500, feet above sea-level ; and the chief
elevations are Rose Hill (717 feet), Crawston Hill (711),
and Cats Craig (637) in the eastern half, and, in the
western, Stioijuhan Moor (1027), Craigdasher Hill (958),
Craigenputtoch Moor (1038), Knochoute (1070), and
Bogiie Hill (1416), the last-named culminating on the
north-western border. The parish presents a striking
variety of scenery — in the E, the Nith's fertile holms,
with soft environment of wooded hills ; and in the W, the
heathery granite heights and black morasses that stretch
through Galloway, almost to the Irish Sea. Its rocks
are partly Silurian, partly Devonian ; and the soil is a
rich alluvium along the Nith and the Cairn, on other
low grounds mostly sand or light gravel, and on the
uplands a light stony loam, overlying a tilly bottom.
Fully one-third of the entire area has never been culti-
vated, little indeed of it admitting of reclamation ;
about 60 acres are covered with natural wood, and 440
with plantations of larch and Scotch firs. Antiquities,
other than four ancient camps or forts, a ' Druidical '
stone circle, and several tumuli, are the towers of
BoGiUK and Lag. The latter ruin, 1% mile NE of the
village, was the scat of the Griersons from 1408, its last
inhabitant l)eiiig that noted hunter-down of Covenanters,
Sir Robert Grierson of Lag (1650-1736). He is buried
in the graveyard of tlie ancient church, wliich, disused
since 1649, stood towards the SE corner of the parish, \
mile SW of Ellisland. The said farm of Ellisland was
DUNSCRIBEN
Robert Burns's home from 178S to 1791, as Craigenput-
TOCH was Thomas Carlyle's from 1828 to 1834, so that
Dunscore has memories such as few parishes in Scotland
have. John Welsh himself (1570-1623), John Knox's
son-in-law, has been claimed as a native. Friars Carse
and Stroquhan House are the principal mansions ; and 4
proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and up-
wards, 33 of between £100 and £500, 11 of from £50 to
£100, and 10 of from £20 to £50. Dunscore is in the pres-
bytery and synod of Dumfries ; the living is worth £230.
The present parish church, at the village, is a Gothic
edifice of 1823, ^\-ith a handsome W tower and 850 sittings.
There are also Free churches of Dunscore and Craig and
a U.P. church ; whilst four public schools — Burnhead,
Dunscore, Dunscore infant and female, and Glenessland
— with respective accommodation for 96, 88, 58, and 60
children, had (18S0) an average attendance of 63, 85, 33,
and 55, and grants of £51, 16s., £60, 13s., £25, 12s.,
and £58, 12s. Valuation (1860) £9881, (1882) £13,917,
Is. 2d. Pop. (1801) 1174, (1831) 1488, (1861) 1554,
(1871) 1504, (1881) U05.—Ord. Sur., sh. 9, 1863.
Dunscriben, a small vitrified fort in Urquhart and
Glenmoriston parish, Inverness-shire, on the brow of a
hill fronting Loch Ness, 1 J mile SSW of Bunloit ham-
let.
Dunscuddeburgh, a ruined fort in Kilmuir parish,
Isle of Skj'e, Inverness-shire.
Duns Dish. See Dux.
Dunse or Down Law, a hill (665 feet) at the south-
western extremity of Roxburgh parish, Roxburghshire,
conjoint with Peniel Heugh in Crailing parish, and 2
miles NE of Ancrum village.
Dunse or Duns (the spelling till 1740, revived in
1882), a town and a parish of central Berwickshire.
Standing, 420 feet above sea-level, on a plain at the
southern base of Dunse Law, the tovra by road is 44
miles ESE of Edinburgh, 15| W of Berwick-on-Tweed,
and 3 furlongs N by AV of Dunse station on a loop-
line of the North British, this being SJ miles StV
of Reston Junction, 55^ ESE of Edinburgh, and 22 NE
of St Boswells. The original town, which by charter of
1489 was made a burgh of barony, was built on the ditn
or Law, but, overthrown and burned by the English in
1545, was thereafter abandoned to utter decay and ex-
tinction. This Law is a round, smooth, turf-clad hill,
rising gradually from a base of 2^ miles in circumference
to a tabular summit 700 feet high and nearly 30 acres
in area, and itself consists of trap or greenstone rock,
through which obtrudes a block of the Old Red sand-
stone, highly metamorphosed by the action of heat, —
the 'Covenanters' Stone.' Here in the spring of 1639
Leslie encamped with an army, numbered variously at
from 12,000 to 30,000 men. Charles was at Berwick,
whence through a telescope he saw the hillside stirring
with pikemen and musqueteers, stout ploughmen and
Swedish veterans, and Argyll's supple Highlanders with
their targes and plaids anddorlachs; before every captain's
tent a standard bearing the legend, in golden letters,
' For Christ's Crown and Covenant.' ' Our hill,' -writes
Principal Baillie, ' was garnished on the top towards S
and E \vith mounted cannon, well-nigh to the number
of 40, great and small. Our regiments lay on the sides
of the hill almost round about. The place was not a
mile in circle — a pretty round rising in a declivity with-
out steepness to the height of a bowshot. On the top
somewhat plain, about a quarter of a mile in length, and
as much in breadth, as I remember, capable of tents for
40,000 men. The crouners lay in canvas lodgings high
and wide ; their captains about them in lesser ones ; the
soldiers about them all in huts of timber covered with
divot or straw. ' Ministers also there were to superfluity,
who encouraged the soldiers by ' their good sermons and
prayers, morning and even, under the roof of heaven, to
which drums did call them for bells. ' So the host lay,
barring the royalists' progress, till a ' humble supplica-
tion ' on the part of the Scots and a ' gracious proclama-
tion ' on that of his Majesty led to the hollow Pacification
of Berwick, 18 June 1639. The Stone, an oblong, mea-
suring originally 5 by 2^ feet, had been chipped away
DUNSE
by relic-mongers almost to nothing, when, in 1878, it
was enclosed and cleared of the surrounding turf, so
that now once more it stands 2^ feet above the ground.
The present town, the 'Dunse that dings a',' was
founded about 1588, and at first was defended on three
sides by a deep morass, long since drained and obli-
terated. In 1670 it was constituted a burgh of barony
imder Sir James Cockburn of Cockbum, who had bought
the estate of Dunse from Himie of Ayton ; and down
to 1696 it claimed to be one of Berwickshire's county-
towns, a rank that it once more shares with Greenlaw
under an act of 1853. The single episode in its liistory,
apart from the prayerful encampment, is that of the
' Dunse demoniac ' in 1630, a poor woman whom the
Earl of Lauderdale believed to be possessed by an evil
spirit, and who spoke better Latin even than the minister
(Chambers's Doiyi. Ajm., ii. 43); but Dunse has produced
some very worthy sons. Foremost among them, doubt-
fully, the 'Angelic Doctor,' Duns Scotus (1265-1308),
author of Realism and greatest of schoolmen. After-
wards, certainly, the Rev. Thomas Boston (1676-1732),
author of The Fourfold State, whose birthplace in New-
town Street is marked by a tablet ; Cadwallader Colden,
M. D. (1688-1776), botanist and lieutenant-governor of
New York; James Grainger, M.D. (1724-67), a minor
poet; Thomas M'Crie, D.D. (1772-1835), biographer of
Knox and Melville ; James Cleghorn (1778-1838), an
accomplished actuary ; John Black (1783-1855), for
twenty-three years editor of the Morning Chronicle;
and Robert Hogg (b. 1818), botanist. The Rev. Adam
Dickson, too, an able writer upon agriculture, was
minister from 1750 till his death in 1776. Lighted by
gas since 1825, and well supplied with water by a com-
pany founded in 1858, the town has a modern and well-
to-do aspect, with its square or market-place, its spacious
streets, and its pretty suburbs, studded with tasteful
villas. The Town-Hall, in the centre of the market-
place, a Gothic structure with elegant spire, is of modern
erection, as likewise are the County Buildings and the
Corn Exchange, the latter opened in 1856. A mechanics'
institute dates from 1840 ; and in 1875 a public library
hall was built at a cost of £670. Dunse has besides a
post office, with money order, savings' bank, insurance,
and railway telegraph departments, branches of the Bank
of Scotland (1833), the British Linen Co. (1784), and
the Royal Bank (1856), 20 insurance agencies, 3 hotels,
2 masonic lodges, a horticultural society (1842), a volun-
teer corps, and a Tuesday paper — the Berioickshire Neics
(1869). An important corn market is held on every
Tuesday, and hiring fairs are held on the first Tuesday
of March, May, and November ; sheep, cattle, and horse
fairs on the first Thursday of June, the second Thursday
of July, 26 August (or the Tuesday after if the 26th falls
on Saturday, Sunday, or Monday), the third Tuesday of
September, and 17 November or the Tuesday alter.
There is also an auction mart, with fortnightly sales of
sheep and cattle, at which a large business is done. The
parish church, a very plain building of 1790, tliat super-
seded an ancient Norman edifice, was almost destroyed
by fire in 1879. As reopened on 16 Jan. 1881 after
restoration at a cost of nearly £4000, it contains 920
sittings, of pitch-pine, stained and varnished ; is beauti-
fied with several stained-glass windows ; and has a fine
new organ, its congregation having been the second in
the Church of Scotland to employ instrumental music.
Boston Free church, repaired in 1881 at a cost of nearly
£700, contains 650 sittings ; and three U.P. churches —
East, South, and "West — contain respectively 650, 640,
and 900. There are also a Roman Catholic chajiel (1882)
and an Episcopal, Christ Church (1854 ; 200 sittings), in
simple Norman style. A new combined public school,
erected at a cost of £5760, was opened on 9 Feb. 1880.
Dunse now is governed by 9 police commissioners,
having adopted the General Police and Improvement
Act in 1873, when the burgh bounds were extended.
In 1882 its municipal constituency numbered 400, and
its burgh valuation amounted to £8400. Pop. (1834)
2656, (1861) 2556, (1871) 2618, (1881) 2438.
The parish is bounded NE bv the detached section of
447
DUNSHELT
DUNSTAFFNAGE
Longformacus and by BunkJe, E and SE by Edrom, SW
by Langton, and NW by Longformacus proper and
Abbey St Bathans. Its utmost length, from NW to
SE, is 7^ miles ; its breadth, from NE to SW, varies
between If and 5 miles ; and its area is 11,474| acres,
of which 78J are water. From just above the Retreat
to a little below Cumledge, Whitadder Water, winding
6f miles south-south-eastward, traces all the north-
eastern border ; and Blackadder Water for a few yards
touches the south-eastern corner of the parish, being
joined here by Langton Burn, which, coming in from
Langton, runs 3f miles on or close to the southern and
south-eastern boundary. The surface sinks to 250 feet
above sea-level at the confluence of Langton Burn with
the Blackadder, and along the Whitadder to close on
280, thence rising north-westward to 700 feet at Dunse
Law, 869 at Jennies Wood, 1000 at Black Hill, 1033 at
Commonside, 960 near Windyshiel, and 1065 at CoCK-
BURNLAW — heights that belong to the southern ridge of
the Lammermuirs. The rocks of the hills are partly
eniptive, mainly Silurian ; and those elsewhere are sand-
stone of three dill'erent formations, which has been
([uarried, and which in places is rich in vegetable fossils.
More than once copper has been mined on the banks of
the WTiitadder, but never with profitable results. A
sharpish gravel is the prevailing soil throughout the N,
and a very rich light deep loam over most of the S,
with patches near the town of dark deep sandy loam.
About one-half of the entire area is in tillage, and as
much as one-sixth perhaps is under wood. By the gale
of 14 Oct. 1881 great havoc was done to the trees here,
especially to the limetree avenue at Dunse Castle. This,
the chief mansion in the parish, standing 1 mile W by
N of the town, near the south-western base of the Law,
is a splendid modern castellated pile, with an ancient
tower adjoining it that is said to have been built by
Randolph, Earl of Moray, and with beautiful grounds
containing an artificial lake (4 x § furl.). Its owner,
Wm. Jas. Hay, Esq. (b. 1827 ; sue. 1876), holds 5812
acres in the shire, valued at £10,094 per annum. Other
mansions are Manderston, Wedderburn Castle, Berry-
well, Cairnbank, Cumledge, and Wellfield ; and, in all,
7 proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 10 of between £100 and £500, 18 of from £50
to £100, and 54 of from £20 to £50. Dunse is the seat
of a presbytery in the synod of Merse and Teviotdale ;
the living is worth £479. Dunse public school and
Millburn school, with respective accommodation for 739
and 95 children, had (1880) an average attendance of
326 and 42, and grants of £268, Is. and £41. Valua-
tion (1864) £22,495, (1882) £26,513. Pop. (1801) 3157,
(1831) 3469, (1861) 3595, (1871) 3602, (1881) 3353.—
Ord. Sur., shs. 26, 34, 33, 1864-63.
The presbytery of Dunse comprises the parishes of
Abbey St Bathans, Bunkle and Preston, Cranshaws,
Dunse, Eccles, Fogo, Greenlaw, Langton, Longformacus,
and Polwarth. Pop. (1871) 9615, (1881) 8810, of whom
2169 were communicants of the Church of Scotland in
1878. — The Free Church has a presbytery of Dunse and
Chimsidc, with churches at Allanton, Chirnside, Dunse,
Eyemouth, Greenlaw, Houndwood, Langton, Longfor-
macus, Mordington, Reston, and Swinton, which to-
gether had 2212 members in 1881.
Dunshelt. See Dane.siialt.
Dunsinane, a hill and an estate in CoUace parish,
Perthshire. One of the Sidlaws, ' high Dunsinane hill '
culminates 8 miles NE of Perth, and, conical in form,
witJi truncated summit, rises gradually on the NW side,
bl'-eply or murally on the other sides, to an altitude of
fiOO feet above the circumjacent ground, and 1012 above
tlie level of the sea. It commands a fine view of Strath-
more and Blairgowrie, and is crowned with vestiges of a
strong ancient fort. This — Macbeth's Castle, according
to Shakespeare and local tradition — occupied an oval
area 210 feet long and 130 feet wide, and was defeiuled
botli l)y a rampart and by fosses quite round the upper
})art of the hill. E.xcavations, made on its site in 1857,
eil to the discovery of a doorway and an underground
chamber, and of an exquisitely worked bronze finger-
448
ring in the form of a spiral double serpent. The estate
comprises the entire parish, and has long been the pro.
perty of the Nairnes, who held a baronetcy from 1704 to
1811, the fifth and last baronet. Sir William Nairne,
having in 1786 been raised to the bench as Lord Dunsi-
nane. The present proprietor, William Nairne, Esq. (b.
1852; sue. 1866), owns 3330 acres in the shire, valued
at £3529 per annum. The mansion, 3 miles WNW of
the hill, and 7 NNE of Perth, has a fine southern ex-
posure, and is an elegant edifice, greatly improved and
modernised about 1830, with extensive and beautiful
grounds.— OrcZ. Sur., sh. 48, 1868.
Dunskeig, a hill in Kilcalmonell and Kilberry parish,
Argyllshire, at the S side of the mouth of West Loch
Tarbert. Rising very steeply fi-om the seaboard to a
height of 300 feet, it commands an extensive view, and
is crowned with remains of two very ancient forts, one
of them \atrified.
Dunskellar. See Uist, North.
Dunskerry, an islet of Durness parish, Sutherland, in
the Pentland Firth, 4 miles N of Fair-aird Head.
Dunskey, an old castle in Portpatrick parish, Wig-
townshire, 4 J furlongs SSE of Portpatrick town. Cro\vn-
ing the brink of a giddy precipice, 100 feet high, at the
head of Castle Bay, it was built about 1510 by Adair of
Kilhilt on the site of an older stronghold, jdundered
and burned in 1489 by Sir Alexander M'CuUoch of Myr-
toun. From the Adairs it came to the Blairs in 1648,
but was quite ruinous in 1684. Dunskey Burn and a
cave near its mouth were popularly thought, down to a
comparatively recent period, to possess some magic pro-
perties of healing. Near the head of Dunskey Glen
stands Dunskey House, amid extensive wooded grounds,
1^ mile N by W of Portpatrick. Built in 1706, and
greatly enlarged and im]iroved about 1830, it is the
property of Sir Edward Hunter-Blair of Blairquhan,
who holds in Wigtownshire 8255 acres, valued at £4948
per annum.
Dun's Muir. See Dun, Muir of.
DunstaflFnage, a famous ancient castle in Kilmore and
Kilbride parish, Argyllshire, on a small, tabular, rocky
promontory at the S side of the mouth of Loch Etive, 3^
miles NNE of Oban. Its name has been derived from
Gaelic words signifying ' the fortified hill with the Mvo
islands,' alluding partly to its own strong site, and partly
to Eilean Mor and Eilean Beag, two islets lying a little to
theNE. The original castle is alleged to have been founded
either by 'Ewin, a Pictish monarch, contemporary with
Julius Caesar,' or by some early chief of the Lorn branch
of the Dalriads ; and to have been occupied as a royal
seat by the later Dalriadan kings till 844, when Kenneth
mac Alpin succeeded to the crown of Pictavia. Skene,
however, remarks that ' of Dunstallnage, as a royal seat,
history knows nothing ; ' and by him the Dalriadan
capital is placed at Dunadd in Glassary parish. The
Scandinavian Vikings, who in the 9th century began to
make bold descents upon the western coasts, had pos-
sibly here a fortress; and this may have been altered,
enlarged, or rebuilt at various periods, till it acquired its
ultimate form about the 13th century. Having come
into the possession of the Macdougals, Lords of Lorn, it
was besieged and captured by Robert Bruce in 1308,
soon after his victory in the Pass of Awe ; and by him
was conferred on Sir Archibald Campbell of Lochawe,
whose fourth descendant, Colin, first Earl of Argyll, in
1490 made a grant of Dunstafi"nage to his younger son,
Alexander. In 1836 his twelfth descendant received a
baronetcy, Avhich became extinct at the death of its
third holder in 1879. The estate— 3000 acres of £916
annual value — then passed to Alex. Jas. Hy. Campbell,
Escp, who is now hereditary captain of the castle, and
whoso mansion, Dunstafl'nago House, stands 1 mile
WSW of Connel station, and 4^ miles NE of Oban,
Dunstaffnage Castle itself must have undergone im-
portant alterations subsequent to the time of Robert
Bruce ; and, as it now stands, cannot claim much higher
antiquity, or possibly even less, than the neighbouring
castle of Dunolly. It gave refuge to James, last Earl of
Douglas, after his forfeiture in 1455, serving him as a
DUNSYEE
place of conncil with Donald, Earl of Ross and Lord of
the Isles ; and it served as a military post, with a small
English garrison, during the rebellions of 1715 and 1745.
Flora ]\Iacdonald M'as for a short time a prisoner here in
the summer of 1746.
The castle is now a mere shell, tall and irregular, but
not without majesty ; and to the sea it presents a grand
and striking aspect, sharing in the magnificent scenery
round the head of the Firth of Lorn. Its immediate
site, or the crown of the rock on which it stands,
measures 300 feet in circumference ; its own periphery,
round the exterior of its walls, is about 270 feet ; and
its form is quadrangular, with internal measurement
of 87 feet from wall to wall, these walls being 30 to
70 feet high and 9 feet thick. Three of its angles have
each a round tower, and the fourth is rounded ; three of
its sides are bare and weather-worn, and the fourth
forms part of a modern dwelling ; and the main entrance
to it was by a staircase from the sea, and is supposed to
have been protected by a fosse -with a drawbridge. Some
brass guns which belonged to vessels of the Spanish
Armada, wrecked oft' the coast of Mull, are on the walls.
A ruined chapel, standing 400 feet distant, and formerly
used by the inmates of the castle, is in the Early Pointed
style, much defaced by alterations, and measures 78 feet
in length, 26 in breadth, and 14 in height. It is sup-
jiosed to contain within its area the ashes of some of
the Dalriadan kings or princes, as also of Alexander 11. ,
who in 1249 died in the neighbouring island of Kerrera;
and it returns a very fine echo. Some of the ancient
regalia are said to have been preserved in the chapel till
about the beginning of the 18th century; and to have then
been stolen by servants of the keeper. Two other fine
relics were afterwards found in it — the one a battle-axe,
9 feet long, of beautiful workmanship, embossed with
silver ; the other a small ivory figure representing a
crowned monarch with a scroll in his hand, and supposed
to have been a coronation sculpture. The famous coro-
nation stone, or Stone of Destiny, described by "Wyn-
toun in his CronyMll as the palladium of the liberty of
Scotland, is always said to have been removed hence by
Kenneth mac Alpin to Scone; and, according to Dr
Macculloch, is strictly homogeneous with stones in the
castle's masonry, and therefore likely to have been really
hewn from some quarry in the neighbourhood. Dun-
stafFnage figures largely in Barbour's Brus, in Sir Walter
Scott's Lord of the Isles, and, as 'Ardenvohr,' in his
Legend of Montrose. — Ord. Sur., sh. 45, 1876.
I)uns3T:e (perhaps 'fort of the marsh'), a village and a
parish on the NE border of the upper ward of Lanark-
shire. The village, standing 750 feet above sea-level,
near •^he right bank of South Medwin Water, has a post
and railway telegraph office under Noblehouse, and a
station on a branch line of the Caledonian, 2^ miles W
by N of Dolphinton, and 8h ENE of Carstairs Junction.
The parish is bounded NE by West Calder in Edin-
burghshire, E by Linton in Peeblesshire, SE by Dolphin-
ton and Walston, and W, NW, and N by Carnwath.
Its length, from N to S, varies between 3^ and 5f miles ;
its utmost breadth, from E to W, is 4f miles ; and its
area is 10,759^ acres, of which 16 are water. South
Medwin Water, rising in the NE corner of the parish,
■winds 9 J miles SSE and WSW along all the eastern and
southern border, and receives West Water with two
or three smaller burns from the interior, where, to the
NW, lies tiny Crane Loch (§ x J furl ). The surface
sinks along South Medwin Water, at the south-western
comer, to less than 700 feet above sea-level, and rises
thence to 960 feet at Easthills, 1313 at Dunsyre Hill, 1347
at Mid Hill, 1210 at Left Law, 1460 at Bleak Law, 1070
at Cairn Knowe, 1336 at Black Law, 1360 at Harrows
Law, and 1425 at White Craig— these forming the Pent-
lands' south-western termination. Springs of excellent
water are numerous and copious ; and springs charged
with iron ore abound on the verge of a marsh. The
rocks are partly crystalline, partly stratified, and the
stratified ones comprise sandstone and limestone, and
are supposed to belong to the Carboniferous formation.
Copper ore and calc-spar are found. The soil is
29
DUNTOCHER
generally sandy, and not very fertile ; about 3000 acres
being in tillage, 30 under wood, and the rest either
pastoral or waste. The chief of the two estates in the
parish was part of the lands exchanged in 1492 by tho
first Earl of Bothwell, with the Earl of Angus, for the
lands and castle of Hermitage in Liddesdale ; and pass-
ing by sale from the Marquis of Douglas to Sir George
Lockhart, president of the court of session (1685-89),
belongs now to his descendant, Lockhart of Lee and
Carnwath. Dunsyre Castle, 300 yards from the parish
church, had a basement vault and a two-storied super-
structure ; and down to about 1740 was a seat of baronial
courts, and possessed its instruments of torture. No
fewer than eight other old fortalices stood within the
parish — five at Easter Saxon, two at Westhall, and one at
Todholes. Several cairns have been found to contain
urns ; and the route by which Agricola's army went from
Tweeddale to the Roman camp at Cleghorn, traversed
the parish, and still is traceable in the form of an earthen
dike. Dunsyre was a frequent retreat of the Covenanters
in the times of the persecution ; and William Yeitch,
one of the most distinguished of their preachers, was
tenant of AVesthills up to the battle of Rullion Green
(1C66) ; whilst Donald Cargill, the martyr, preached, in
1669, on Dunsyre Common. Dunsj-re is in the presby-
tery of Biggar and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ;
the living is worth £200. The church is an old build-
ing, with iron jougs and a Gothic tower, added in 1820,
and contains 245 sittings. A public school, with accom-
modation for 46 children, had (1880) an average of 46,
and a grant of £51, lis. Valuation (1882) £6326, 8s.
Pop. (1801) 290, (1831) 335, (1861) 312, (1871) 302,
(1881) 254.— Ord Sur., sh. 24, 1864.
Duntelchaig. See Dundelchack.
Duntiblae, a village in Kirkintilloch parish, Dumbar-
tonshire, on Luggie AVater, If mile ESE of Kiikin til-
loch town. It was the residence and death-place of the
weaver-poet Walter Watson (1780-1854).
Duntocher, a small manufacturing town in Old Kil-
patrick parish, Dumbartonshire, on Dalmuir Burn, in a
gap of the Lower Kilpatrick Hills, 1 mile NE by N of
Dalmuir station, and 9 miles by road NW of Glasgow.
It occupies a romantic site, in front of picturesque
groupings of the Kilpatrick Hills ; has charming en-
virons, with many delightful walks ; and, extending
with its eastern suburbs of Faifley and Hardgate to a
length of fully 1 mile, consists chiefly of plain two-
story houses, many of them with small gardens attached.
A bridge over it at the town is very ancient ; bears a
Latin inscription, placed upon it in 1772, stating it to
have been built by the Romans ; and is firmly believed
by most of the townspeople, and even thought by some
antiquaries, to be really a Roman structure, perhaps the
oldest bridge in Scotland ; but has been so often repaired
as to retain few or no indications of its date, and very
probably was no otherwise Roman than in having been
built with stones abstracted from a previous Roman
structure. A Roman fort stood on a neighbouring hill ;
and, though now almost entirely obliterated, continued
till Pennant's time (1772) to be distinctly traceable, and
has yielded some important relics. Three subterranean
vaulted chambers were discovered on the side of this hill
in 1775 ; included several rows of pillars, arranged in a
labyrinth of passages ; and were conjectured to have
been a sudatorium or hot bath for the use of the garri-
son. Roman tablets, altars, vases, coins, and querns
were found either on the hill or in a neighbouring field ;
and most of them were deposited for preservation in
the Hunterian JIuscum of Glasgow College. Antoninus'
Wall also passed a short distance to the S, and might
readily have yielded its materials for the constructing
of buiklings after the Roman times. The town, then
only a village, about the end of last century became a
scat of cotton manufacture ; but its mill was closed in
1808, when the Gartclash property passed to William
Dunn (1770-1849). By him the mill was reopened and
greatly extended, and to him Duntocher owed its rapid
expansion. Since 1831 it was the scat of trade for the
four large cotton -mills of Duntocher itself, Faifley,
449
DUNTREATH
Hardgate, and Miltonfield, all four within a mile of one
another. These mills long turned out annually about
a million of pounds of cotton j'arn, and two millions of
yards of cotton cloth ; and afforded the chief means of
support to the population. But there are also, in the
town, a manufactory of agricultural implements, and, in
its near vicinity, lime-works, coal-works, and quarries.
The town has a post office under Glasgow, a chapel of
ease (1836; 800 sittings), a Free church, a U.P. church
(670 sittings), St ]\Iary's Roman Catholic church (1850;
500 sittings), public and Roman Catholic schools, a
public library, and a savings' bank. Pop. (1851) 2446,
(1861) 2360, (1871) 1367, (1881) 1561.— Ord. Sicr., sh.
30, 1866.
Dimtreath, an old castellated mansion in Strathblane
parish, SW Stirlingshire, on the right bank of Blane
Water, 2 J miles WN W of Strathblane village. Built in
the form of an open quadrangle, but never completed on
the S side, it was long unoccupied after 1740, and fell into
great decay. It retains on the N side a chapel which
by tradition is said to have ' undergone a crash during
the celebration of divine service;' and it stands in a
moderately large and very beautiful park. At the for-
feiture of the last Celtic Earl of Lennox in 1425, Dun-
treath was granted to a younger branch of the Edmon-
.stone family, and now is held by Admiral Sir "William
Edmonstone, fourth Bart, since 1774 (b. 1810 ; sue.
1871) who sat for Stirlingshire from 1874 to 1880, and
who holds 9778 acres in the shire, valued at £16,129
per annum, including £8451 for minerals. See Colzium.
Duntroon Castle, an ancient baronial fortalice, re-
paired and modernised into a comfortable mansion, in
Kilmartin parish, Argyllshire, on a headland projecting
from the northern shore of Loch Crinan, 4 miles SW of
Kilmartin village. Long the seat of the Campbells of
Duntroon, it was unsuccessfully besieged by Colkitto in
1644; now it belongs to Malcolm of Poltalloch, and
presents an imposing appearance as seen from the Crinan
Canal.
Duntrune, a beautiful mansion in the detached section
of Dundee parish, Forfarshire, near the left bank of
Fithie Burn, 4^ miles NE of Dundee town. From its
high site, 330 feet above sea-level, it commands a mag-
nificent prospect — over Ballumbie and Linlath en woods,
Brou^hty Ferry and the Firth of Tay, to St Andrews,
with its grand old tower of St Rule standing out clear
on the sky-line. Here lived and died the author of
Mystifications, shrewd, witty, kindly ]\Iiss Stirling
Graham (1782-1877), whose nephew and heir, John
Edmund Lacon, Esq., holds 441 acres in the shire,
valued at £1366 per annum. A neighbouring hamlet
bears the name of Burnside of Duntrune. See Dr
John Brown's John Leech and otlier Pai^ers (Edinb. 1882).
Dimtulm, an ancient castle in Kilmuir parish. Isle of
Skye, Inverness-shire, on a little promontory, over-
hanging Loch Scour, 9 miles N of Uig. Built on the
site of a Scandinavian fort, it was long the seat of the
Macdonalds, descendants of the Lords of the Isles, till
they were driven out of it to Mugstot by the ghost of
one Donald Gorm. It bore originally the name of Dun-
tlavid or St David's Fort, in honour of a Scandinavian
king or viking who had resided in the previous fortalice ;
and seems to have been a splendid structure, so strong
as to be impregnable alike by land and by sea ; but now
is reduced to a mere shell — a fragment of a tower and
a portion of flanking wall. A neighbouring hamlet of
Duntulra has a post office under Portree. See chap. xi.
of Alexander Smith's Hammer in Skye (Lond. 1865).
Dunure, a seaport village and an ancient castle in May-
bole parish, Ayrshire. The village stands on a small bay,
6 miles SW of Ayr, and 5i NW of JIaybole ; and has
an artificial harbour, which, lying on the SW side of
the bay, within a small headland called Dunure Point,
was formed in 1811 at a cost of £50,000, but proving of
small value, was allowed to go into decay. The water
round the headland has a depth of from 4 to 20 fathoms,
with a level, clean, sandy bottom, and good anchorage ;
and a passage, 150 feet wide at bottom, was cut thence,
through solid rock, to a square basin, with from 700
450
DUNVEGAN
to 1000 feet of quay, all sheltered by high ground, and
lined with buildings forming a quadrangle. The access
is easy and safe in almost any wind ; and the egress is
so facile that a vessel, immediately on leaving the har-
bour, can at any time and at once put out to sea. The
depth of water in the harbour is 12 feet at ordinary
spring tides, but could be artificially increased to nearly
30 feet. Yet in spite of all these advantages, on a coast
devoid of natural shelter, inhospitable to shipping, and
overlooked by a productive country, the only craft fre-
quenting this place has been an occasional sloop in the
agricultural interests and a few fishing boats. Crowning
a clitr that overhangs the harbour, the castle bears
marks of great antiquity and strength, and had formerly
defences of rampart and fosse. From the fourteenth
century onwards it was long a seat of the Marquis of
Ailsa's ancestors, and figured prominently in such wild
scenes in the history of the Kennedys as the roasting
of the commendator of Ckossraguel; but is now a
fragmentary ruin, belonging to Kennedy of Dalquharran
Castle.— Ord Siir., sh. 14, 1863.
Dunvegan, a village, a castle, a sea-loch, and a head-
land in Duirinish parish, Isle of Skye, Inverness-shire,
The village lies near the head of the sea-loch, 23^ miles
W by N of Portree, and 11 NNW of Struan ; is a place
of call for steamers from Glasgow to Skye and the Outer
Hebrides ; and has a post office, with money order,
savings' bank, and telegraph departments, under Portree,
a good hotel, Duirinish Free church, and a new public
school, erected in 1875-76 at a cost of £915. Dunvegan
Castle stands, near the village, on a rocky headland,
washed on three sides by the sea, and on the fourth
approached by a bridge over a narrow ravine. Forming
three sides of a quadrangle, it presents ' an amorphous
mass of masonry of every conceivable style of architec-
ture, in which the nineteenth jostles the ninth century;'
and has, from time immemorial, been the seat of the
chiefs of the Macleods, proprietors once of Le^vis, Uist,
and the greater part of Skye. And still, as says Alex-
ander Smith, ' Macleod retains his old eyrie at Dun-
vegan, mth its drawbridge and dungeons. At night he
can hear the sea beating on the base of his rock. His
"Maidens" are wet with the sea-foam; his mountain
" Tables" are shrouded with the mists of the Atlantic.
The rocks and mountains around him wear his name,
ever as of old did his clansmen. "Macleod's countr)-,"
the people yet call all the northern portion of the island.'
The present chief, Norman Macleod of I\Iacleod (b. 1812;
sue. 1835), holds 141,679 acres in Inverness-shire, valued
at £8464 per annum. The oldest portion of Dunvegan,
on the seaward side, is described by the Lexicographer
as ' the skeleton of a castle of unknown antiquity, sup-
])Osed to have been a Norwegian fortress, when the
Danes were masters of the island. It is so nearly entire,
that it might easily have been made habitable, were
there not an ominous tradition in the family that the
owner shall not outlive the reparation. The grandfather
of the present laird, in defiance of prediction, began the
Avork, but desisted in a little time, and applied his
money to worse uses.' A lofty tower was added by
Alastair Crotach ( ' Crookback Alexander'), who, dying
at a great age in Queen Mary's reign, was buried at
Rowardill in Harris. A third part, a long low edifice,
was built by Rory More, who was knighted by James A' I. ;
the rest consists of modern reconstructions and addi-
tions ; and the whole forms one of the most interesting
castles in the Highlands. Its history is marked, more
even than that of most old Highland ])laces, with legends
of weird superstition ; and furnished Sir Walter Scott
with the suliject of the last of his Lrtlcrs on Dcmonology.
Sir Walter spent a night in its Fairy Room in the sum-
mer of 1814, and wrote a description of it more picturesque
than true. And forty years earlier, in the autumn of
1773, Dr Sanmel Johnson 'tasted lotus here, and was
in danger of forgetting that he was ever to depart, till
Mr 15oswell sagely reproached him Avith sluggishness
and softness.' Two singular relics are preserved at
Dunvegan Castle. One is the 'fairy flag,' alleged to
have been captured at the Crusades by one of the
DUNWAN DAM
Macleods from a Saracen chief, and consisting of a square
piece of very rich silk, en^vrought with crosses of gokl
thread and with elf -spots. The father of Dr Norman
Madeod records how strangely a Gaelic prophecy ful-
filled itself in 1799, when, as a boy, he was present at
the opening of the iron chest in which this flag was
stored. The other relic is a curiously-decorated drink-
ing-horn, holding perhaps two quarts, which the heir of
Macleod was expected to drain at one draught, as a test
of manhood, before he was suffei'ed to bear arms, or
could claim a seat among grown-up men. This — ' Rory
More's horn ' — is mentioned in a bacchanalian song of
Burns, and was placed in the South Kensington Museum
during the International Exhibition of 1862. Dunvegan
Loch, known also as Loch FoUart, separates the penin-
sula of Vaternish on the NE from that of Duirinish on
the SW ; measures 7| miles in length, and 2^ miles in
mean width ; and affords safe anchorage, in any wind,
for vessels of the heaviest burden. Dunvegan Head
flanks the SAV side of the sea-loch's entrance, or ter-
minates the peninsula of Duirinish. It presents a
singularly bold and precipitous appearance, rising to a
height of more than 300 feet ; and commands a fine view
of the loch, the Minch, and the glens and mountains of
Harris. See Samuel Johnson's Tour to the Western
Islands (1775) ; chap. x. of Alexander Smith's Summer
in Skye (1865); and vol. 1., pp. 333-335, of the Memoir
cf Norman Macleod, D.D. (1876).
Dunwan Dam, a crescent-shaped lake in Eaglesham
parish, SE Renfrewshire, 2 miles SW by S of Eaglesham
village. Lying 850 feet above sea-level, it is 7i fur-
longs long ; has a varying width of 1^ and 3 furlongs ;
and sends off Holehall Burn, driving Eaglesham Mills,
and-falling into the White Cart.— Orrf. ,S'iJ?-.,sh. 22, 1865.
Dupplin Castle, a noble mansion of Lower Strathearn,
in Aberdalgie parish, Perthshire, If mile NE of For-
teviot station, and 5| miles SW of Perth. Standing
within a half mile of the Earn's left bank, amidst a large
and finely-wooded park, it succeeded a previous edifice,
destroyed by fire in 1827 ; and, built during 1828-32 at
a cost of £30,000, is a splendid Tudor structure, com-
manding a view of nearly all Strathearn, and containing
a library famous for rare editions of the classics. It is
the seat of George Hay, eleventh Earl of Kinnoull (ere.
1633) and Viscount Dupplin (1627), who, born in 1827,
succeeded his father in 1866, and owns 12,577 acres in
the shire, valued at £14,814 per annum. On 6 Sept.
1842 Dupplin Castle was honoured by a passing visit
from the Queen and Prin.ce Albert. In its vicinity, on
the night of 12 Aug. 1332, was fought the Battle of
Dupplin, when Edward Baliol and the ' disinherited
barons,' to the number of 500 horse and 3000 foot, sur-
prised and routed a host of 30,000 under Mar, the new
Regent of Scotland, who himself was slain with 13,000
of his followers. A stone cross, quite entire, stands on
the face of an acclivity, on the opposite bank of the
Earn, almost in the line of the ford by which Baliol's
army passed the river ; and a large tumulus, ^ mUe to
the N, was found to contain some stone-formed graves,
^vith many fragments of bones. See Aberdalgie. —
Ord. Sicr., sh. 48, 1868.
Dura Den, a small ravine in Kemback parish, Fife,
2^ miles E of Cupar. It is traversed by Ceres Burn on
its northerly course to the Eden, and, barely 9 furlongs
in length, is famous for the wealth of fossil ganoid fish
enshrined in its yellow sandstone. This yellow sand-
stone is one of the upper beds of the Old Red, and has
a thickness here of between 300 and 400 feet. The fish
are found crowded together in one thin layer, nearly a
hundred finely-preserved specimens having been counted
on a single slab about 5 feet square ; and they consist of
two species of Holoptychius (Andersoni and Flcmingii),
besides Dipterus, Platyr/nathus, Phaneroplcuron Andcr-
S'ini, GhjTptoloemMS, Glyptopomtis, and Pamphractus. See
Dr J. Anderson's Dura Den, a Monograph of the Yelloiv
Sandstone and its Picmarkable Remains (Edinb. 1859). —
Ord. Stcr., sh. 49, 1865.
Durhamtown, a village in Bathgate parish, Linlith-
gowshire, 1 mile SSW of Bathgate town.
DURISDEEB
Durie, an estate, with a mansion of 1762, in Scoonio
parish, Fife, 1^ mile NNW of Leven. The estate, ex-
tending to the coast and including the feus of Leven,
belonged to a family of its own name from the 13th till
the first half of the 16th century, when it passed by
marriage to James V.'s favourite. Sir Alexander Kemp.
From his posterity it was purchased in 1614 by the
great lawyer. Sir Alexander Gibson, whose notes on
important decisions were published posthumously as
Dufie's PracticTcs, and who in 1621, on being appointed
a lord of session, assumed the title of Lord Durie. He
died at Durie House in 1644, having in 1628 received a
Nova Scotia baronetcy, whose present holder is Gibson
Carmichael of Castle Craig. The sti-angest tale is
told of this Sir Alexander, how, prior to his elevation
to the bench, he was walking one day on the beach not
far from Leven, when he was seized and gagged by a
party of Borderers, headed by Christy's Will, and was
carried over the Firth to Leith, from Leith to Edin-
burgh, and thence through Melrose over the English
Border to Harbottle Castle, there to be kept eight days
a prisoner, till a lawsuit was ended to which his pre-
sence might have proved inimical. This seems a cor-
recter version of the story than Sir Walter Scott's,
according to which three months was the term of im-
prisonment, the Earl of Traquair its instigator, and its
scene the lonely peel-tower of Graham. ' Not for years
after, when travelling in Annandale, did Lord Durie
recognise in the names of Maudgc the cat and Batty the
shepherd's dog, belonging to Will's establishment, the
only words which, loudly called from time to time, had
reached his ears during his days of captivity' (Chambers's
Domestic Annals, i. 355). Dui'ie was sold in last century
to the ancestor of its present proprietor, Robert Christie,
Esq. (b. 1818 ; sue. 1872), who holds 2134 acres in Fife,
valued at £5884 per annum, including £193 for minerals
— a colliery, namely, long so famous for output and
quality that even in Holland any prime coal was known
as 'Durie coal.' — Ord. Sur., sh. 40, 1867.
Dunne. See Durness.
Durinish. See Duirinish.
Durisdeer, a village and a parish of Upper Nithsdale,
NW Dumfriesshire. The village stands, 575 feet above
sea-level, on the left bank of Kirk Burn, 2 miles NNE
of Carronbridge station, this being 24| miles ESE of
Old Cumnock, 17| NNW of Dumfries, and 6 N of Thorn-
hill, under which Durisdeer has a post office.
The parish, containing also part of the village of
Carronbridge, and since 1727 comprising half of the
ancient parish of Kilbride or Kirkbride, is bounded
NW by Sanquhar, NE by Crawford in Lanark-
shire, SE by JMorton, SW and W by Penpont.
Its utmost length is 8i miles from N by E to S by
W, viz. , from Lowther Hill to the Nith above Morton
Mill ; its breadth, from E to W, varies between ^ mile
and 6| miles ; and its area is 19,852 acres, of which
134^ are water. The NiTil has here a south-south-
easterly course of 7f miles, partly along tlie Sanquhar
and Penpont borders, but mainly through the interior,
and here receives Enterkin Burn and Carron Water,
which last traces 3^ miles of the boundary -svith Morton.
In the furthest S the surface sinks along the Nith to less
than 200 feet above sea-level, thence rising north-west-
ward and north-north-westward to 595 feet near Auchen-
skeoch, 744 near Mar, 696 near Cleuch-head, 1229 near
Ballaggan, 1128 at Birny Rig, 1195 at Fardingmullach
Hill, and 724 near Crairiepark ; whilst to the left or E
of the Nith, the chief elevations from S to N are High
Enoch (676 feet). Nether Hill (1290), *Scaw'd Law
(2166), *Durisdeer Hill (1861), Black Hill (1740), Cosh-
ogle Rig (1214), *Well Hill (1987), Thirstane Hill
(1895), and Lowtiier Hill (2377), where asterisks mark
those summits tliat culminate right on the Lanarkshire
border. The leading formation of the northern uplands,
a portion these of the wild, bleak Southern Highlands,
is Silurian ; and a reddish frialjle sandstone prevails
over most of the low tracts to the S. The soil is wet
and heavy in some of the arable lands, in others gravelly
or sandy ; but, as a rule, is loamy and very fertile.
451
DURN
About two-fifths of the entire area are either regularly or
occasionally in tillage ; woods and plantations cover more
than one-ninth ; and the rest is either pastoral or waste.
A charming glimpse of the scenery of Durisdeer is given
by Dorotliy Wordsworth, who ^\-ith her brother and
Coleridge drove up from Thornhill to Wanlockhead on
19 Aug. 1804 : — 'About a mile and a half from Drum-
lanrig is a turnpike gate at the top of a hill. "We left
our car witli the man, and turned aside into a field
where we looked down upon the Nith, which runs far
below in a deei) and rocky channel ; the banks woody ;
the view pleasant down the river towards Thornhill ; an
open countrj', cornfields, pastures, and scattered trees.
Returned to the turnpike house, a cold spot uj^on a
common, black cattle feeding close to the door. Ovir
road led us down the hill to the side of the Nith, and
we travelled along its banks for some miles. Here were
clay cottages perhaps every half or quarter of a mile.
The bed of the stream rough with rocks ; banks irre-
gular, now woody, now bare ; here a patch of broom,
tliere of corn, there of pasturage ; and hills green or
heathy above ' ( Tour in Scotland, ed. by Princ. Shairp,
1874). Then, too, there is the Enterkin, made famous
by Defoe and the author of Eab and his Frieiuls; and Well
or Wald Path, the Roman way from Nithsdale to Stratli-
clyde, runs up from Carronbridge to Durisdeer village,
7 fuiiongs NNE of which are remains of a Roman camp.
Drumlanrig Castle is the most prominent object, and
the Duke of Buccleuch is sole proprietor Durisdeer is
in the presbytery of Penpont and synod of Dumfries ;
the living is worth £302. The cruciform church, at the
^'illage, was built in 1699, and contains 540 sittings ;
its northern transept is the Douglas mausoleum.
Here is a sumptuous marble moniiment with two
sculptured figures in the Roubilliac taste, brought from
Rome, and representing James, second Duke of Queens-
berry (1622-1711), and his Duchess ; the vault beneath
contains tM^elve Douglas coffins, ranging in date between
1693 and 1777. There is also a Free church preaching-
station ; and Birleyhill and Durisdeer public schools,
■with respective accommodation for 107 and 103 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 54 and 62, and
grants of £61, 6s. and £56, 12s. Valuation (1882)
£9501, 13s. Pop. (1801) 1148, (1821) 1601, (1861)
1320, (1871) 1189, (1881) 1107.— Orti. Sur., shs. 15, 9,
1864-63. See Dr C. T. Ramage's Drumlanrig Castle,
with the Early History and Ancient Remains of Dicris-
dccr {BumL 1876).
Dum, a hill and a bum in Fordyce parish, N Banff-
shire. The hill culminates 2 miles SW of Portsoy, and,
rising to an altitude of 651 feet above sea-level, is
crowned with remains of an ancient camp, supposed to
have been Danish ; a quarry on its northern side yields
a beautiful variety of quartz, exported to England for
the use of the potteries. The burn, rising near Smith-
field, at an altitude of 600 feet, runs 6 miles north-
north-eastward to the sea at Portsoy. — Ord. Sur., sh.
96, 1876.
Durness, a coast parish of NW Sutherland, containing
Durine village, 2| miles SSE of the northernmost point
of Fair-aird, 13 ESE of Cape Wrath, 20^ WNW of
Tongue vid Heilem, Hope, and Tongue ferries, and
55^ NNW of Lairg, under which it has a post office
(Durness), with money order and savings' bank depart-
ments. At it also are Durness hotel, Durine public
school, the parish church, and (in Sangomore hamlet, 5
furlongs S by E) a Free church.
The parish, till 1724 forming one with Tongue and
Eddrachillis as part of 'Lord Reay's country,' is bounded
N by the North Sea, E by Tongue, SE by Farr, SW by
Eddrachillis, and W by the Atlantic. From N to S its
utmost length is 20^ Tniles ; its utmost breadth, from E
to W, is 17 miles ; and its area is 147,323.J acres, of
which 3726^ arc water and 2541 foreshore, and which
includes the three islands of Ciioaric, Hoan, and
GoKVELLAN, with a number of smaller islets. The
•western coast is very slightly indented, offering a rock-
bound and lofty front to the Atlantic, and terminating on
the N in the huge promontory of grim Cai'E Wratu
452
DURNESS
(523 feet). Thence 5i miles eastward the northern coast
is solely or mainly broken by Kearvaig Bay, but onward
thence to the eastern boundar}' it is deeply intersected
b}' the Kyle of Durness and Loch EriboU. Ever}- where
almost it exhibits some of the finest rock scenery iu
Scotland, the cliffs about Cape Wrath, Fair-aird, and
Whiten Head rising sheer from the water to a height
of 200 or 700 feet, and being fringed with 'stacks,' and
tunnelled by caverns, of which the most celebrated are
those of Whiten and Smoo. The river Dionard or
Grudie, rising on the north-eastern slope of Meall Horn
at 1760 feet of altitude, and in its upper course travers-
ing Locban Ulabhith (If x 1 furl.). An Dubh Loch
(2i X 1 fmi.), and Loch Dionard (5;^ x IJ furl. ; 1380 feet
above sea-level), runs 14;J miles northward to the Kyle
of Durness, which, itself winding 5^ miles northward,
with a varying ^vidth of 2| and 6i furlongs, is left nearly
dry at low water, and itself expands into Durness or
Baile na Cille Bay, IJ mile long, and from 1| to 2 miles
broad. The PoUa, issuing from Loch Dubh (If x ^ furl. ;
631 feet), and presently traversing Loch Staonsaid
(5 X 1^ furl. ; 585 feet), runs 73 miles north-by-westward
along Strath Beg to the head of Loch Eriboll, which,
penetrating the land for 10^ miles southward and south-
south-westward, varies in M'idth between 5 furlongs and
2^ miles over its upper portion, while its entrance is 3
miles broad, from Hoan island to Whiten Head. Lastly,
the river Hope, formed by three principal head-streams
at an altitude of 94 feet, flows 6^ miles along Strath
More to fresh-water Loch Hope (5| miles x 1 to 7 furl. ;
12 feet), whence issuing it continues 1| mUe northward
to Loch Eriboll, at its south-eastern side. There are
besides, a multitude of lesser streams and lakes, as Lochs
BoRLAY, Craspul, and Meadaidh (6x14 f^"'l- ; 221 feet),
which sends off a stream 2 miles north-north-eastward
to the sea near Smoo House. The surface is everywhere
mountainous, moorish mostly and rocky, with little
green land except along the coast. The chief elevations
from N to S, those marked with asterisks culminating
on the borders of the parish, are Cnoc Ard an Tionail
(603 feet), Cnoc nan Earbagan (800), Creagan na Speireig
(746), *Creag Riabhach Bheag(1521), Ben Hope (3040),
Cnoc na Pogaile (1169), Cnoc a' Chraois (1143), and *Ben
Hee (2864), to the E of the Hope ; Beinn Heilem (585),
Beinn Poll (756), Meall a' Bhaid Tharsuinn (902), Creag
na Faoilinn (954), An Lean Carn (1705), and Feinne-
bheinn Mhor (1519), to the E of Loch Eriboll and the
PoUa ; Beinn Ceanna-beinne (1257), Meall Meadhonach
(1387), Meall nan-crath (1605), Benspenue (2537),
Cran Stackio (2630), Conamhcall (1587), and * Carn
Dearg (2613), to the E of the Kyle of Durness and the
Dionard ; and, between these and the Atlantic, Cnoc a'
Ghuish (982), Meall Sgribhinn (1216), Cnoc na Ba
Ruaidhe (726), *Ben-derg-vore (1528), 15einn an Amair
(911), Glasven (1085), Foinaven (2980), *Creag Dionard
(2554), and Meall Horn (2548). The rocks are chiefly
gneiss, granitic gneiss, quartzite, and mica slate, with
occasional veins of porphyry and felspar ; but in some
parts are variously conglomerate, red sandstone, and
limestone, which last is extensively wrought not far
from Cambusan-down on Loch Eriboll. Although there
are several good patches of mixed gravel and moss, with
here and there a piece of fairish loam, it may almost bo
said that Durness contains no laud suitable for cultiva-
tion ; but it is an excellent grazing district, the lime-
stone that underlies tiie surface-soil proving a valuable
stimulant to its pasture. The holdings some of them arc
very large, Eriboll, Keoldale, and Balnakiel extending
to from 30,000 to 40,000 acres, whilst Melncss, lying
partly in Tongue, and partly in Durness, is supposed to
exceed 70,000, being thus the largest farm, not merely
in Sutherland, but probablv also in the United Kingdom.
The rent of these four vast lioldings is £1307, £1237,
£1385, and £1257 ; and on the first and last there are but
150 and 90 arable acres. The sheep are all of the Cheviot
breed. The fresh- and salt-water fisheries of salmon,
trout, char, sea-trout, herrings, cod, haddock, and ling
are highly productive ; but the lobster fisheries of Loch
Eriboll have greatly fallen oflf within the last thirty years.
DURNO
The chief antiquities are ten round ' duns ;' and of these
the most perfect is Dun Dornadilla in Strath More,
which, 16 feet high, and 50 yards in circiunference, con-
sists of two concentric walls of slaty stones. At Aultna-
CAILLICH, not far from this famous 'dun,' was born the
Gaelic poet, Robert Donn. Durness is in the presby-
tery of Tongue and synod of Sutherland and Caithness ;
the living is worth £205. The parish church of 1619,
occupying the site of a cell of Dornoch monastery, is
now a ruin ; the present church contains 300 sittings.
Duriue public school, with accommodation for 127
children, had (1880) an average attendance of 63, and
a grant of £61, lis. Valuation (1860) £3672, (1882)
£6615, 15s. 2d.— all but £139 held by the Duke of
Sutherland. Pop. (1801) 1208, (1831) 1153, (1861) 1109,
(1871) 1049, (1881) 987, of whom 900 were Gaelic-
speaking.— CrrZ. Sur., shs. 114, 113, 108, 1880-82.
See pp. 57-72 of Arch. Young's Sutherland (Edinb.
1880).
Dumo, a village in Chapel of Garioch parish, Aber-
deenshire, 2 miles N of Pitcaple station. It has a
branch of the Aberdeen Town and County Bank.
Duror, a hamlet and a quoad sacra parish in Lismore
and Appin parish, Argyllshire. The hamlet stands on
the right bank of Duror rivulet, and on the road from
Oban to Fort William, within 1 mile of the shore of
Loch Linnhe, and 5 miles WSW of Ballachulish. At it
are a post office, an inn, a public school, the Established
church (1826 ; 323 sittings), and St Adamnan's Episco-
pal church (1851 ; 100 sittings). Fairs are held here on
the Saturdaj-s before the last AVednesdays of May and
October. A capital trout-stream, the rivulet Dm'or
rises at an altitude of 1800 feet, and runs 6 miles west-
north-westward and west-south-westward to the head of
Cuil Bay. The quoad sacra parish is in the 2:>resbytery
of Lorn and synod of Argyll ; the stipend is £120, with
manse and glebe. Pop. (1881) 492.— Ord Sur., sh. 53,
1877.
Durran. See Olrig.
Durris, a Deeside village and parish of N Kincardine-
shire. The village, Kirkton of Durris, stands on the
right bank of the Burn of Sheeoch, immediately above
its confluence with the Dee, If mile E of Crathes station,
this being 3 miles E by N of Banchory, and 14 WSW of
Aberdeen, under which Durris has a post office. Fairs
are held on the third Tuesday of January, February,
ilarch, and April, the second Tuesday of May, the
Saturday before the second Wednesday of June, the
Monday in July before Paldy fair, the last Wednesday
of September, the third Tuesday of October, o, s., and
the third Tuesday of December.
Tl e parish is bounded N by Banchory-Ternan and
the Aberdeenshire portion of Drumoak, E by Mary-
culter, SE by Fetteresso and Glenbervie, W by Strachan
and Banchory-Ternan. Its utmost length, from E to
W, is 6| miles ; its breadth, from N to S, varies
between 3| and 4| miles ; and its area is 15,435 acres,
of which 141 are water. The Dee winds 6 miles
east-north-eastward along all the northern border ;
and its impetuous affluent, the Burn of Sheeoch, rising
If mile beyond the south-western extremity of the
parish, runs SJ miles north-north-eastward through
the interior. In the NE the surface sinks along the
Dee to 82 feet above sea-level, thence rising south-west-
ward to 570 feet near Corsehill, 865 at Brunt Yairds,
975 at Strathg3de, 1245 at Cairn-mon-earn, 1054 at
Craigbeg, 1232 at Mongour, 725 at Cairnshee, 829 at
Mulloch Hill, 578 at the Ord, 1207 at Shillofad, and
1231 at Monluth Hill, the last two culminating on the
borders of the parish. Gneiss, the predominant rock,
often shows bare on the hill-sides, and forms, too,
great detached blocks upon the cultivated lauds. The
soil of the low grounds is mostly a fertile loam, of the
higher grounds either clayey or gravelly, the subsoil
being generally cold damp clay ; but great improve-
ments have been effected in the way of drainage and
leclamation within the last 40 years. Nearly four-
tifteenths of the entire area are in tillage ; ratlier more
than another fifteenth is under wood ; and the rest is
DUTHIL
either pasture, moss, moor, or waste. Castle Hill, a
knoll by the Dee, 5 furlongs NE of the village, is engirt
by a ditch, and seems to have been a military post ; in
various parts are remains of cairns, tumuli, and
stone circles, which form the subject of an article in
Procs. Sac. Ants. Scotl. (vol. ii., new series, 1880).
The eminent anticjuary, Cosmo Innes (1798-1874), was a
native. Excepting Corsehill farm, the whole parish is
comprised in the Durris estate, which, held from the 13th
century by a branch of the Erasers, went by marriage
to the celebrated Charles Mordaunt, Earl of Peterborough
(1658-1735). His daughter in 1706 married the .second
Duke of Gordon, and in 1824 the estate devolved upon
the fourth Duke as heir of entail. In 1834 it was pur-
chased by Anthony Mactier, late of Calcutta ; and in
1871 it was sold once more, for £300,000, to James
Young, Esq., F.R.S., of Kelly in Renfrewshire (b.
1811), who owns in Kincardineshire 16,659 acres,
valued at £10,104. His seat, Durris House, stands
If mile E of the village and 1^ SSE of Park station,
and, built in the 17th century, was enlarged both by
Mr Innes' father and by Mr Mactier ; not far from it
is Durris Tower, erected in 1825 to commemorate the
Avinning of a lawsuit by the Duke of Gordon. Durris
is in the presbytery and synod of Aberdeen ; the living
is worth £197. The parish church, at the village, was
buUt in 1822, and contains 550 sittings. There is also
a Free church ; and two public schools, Dhualt and
AVoodlands, with respective accommodation for 100 and
130 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 79 and
92, and grants of £64, 9s. 6d. and £75, 15s. A'aluation
(1856) £6370, (1882) £9834, Os. lid. Pop. (ISOl) 605,
(1831) 1035, (1861) 1109, (1871) 1021, (1881) 1014.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 66, 1871.
Durrisdeer. See Dueisdeer.
Dusk. See DnuiSK.
Duthich. See DuicH.
Duthil, a hamlet and a parish of NE Inverness-shire.
The hamlet, standing 817 feet above sea-level, on the
left bank of the Dulnan, is 2| miles ENE of Carrbridge,
6| N by W of Boat-of-Garden Junction, and 7 WSAV of
Grantown.
The parish, containing also the village of Carr-
BRiDGE and the stations of Aviemore and Boat-of-
Garden, comprises Duthil and Rothieraurchus, lying
left and right of the Spey, and the former till 1870
belonging to Elginshire. It is bounded NE by Crom-
dale in Elginshire, E by Abernethy, SE by Crathie-
Braemar in Aberdeenshire and by Alvie, SW by Alvie,
and NAV by Moy-Dalarossie and by Cawdor and Ard-
clach in Nairnshire ; and has an utmost length of 22§
miles from N to S, viz., from Carn Allt Laoigh to a
point 1§ mile S by E of Loch Eunach, with an utmost
breadth from E to AV of lOi miles. The Allt na Beinne
Moire, issuing from Lochan nan Cnapan, in the extreme
S of Rothieraurchus, runs 10 miles northward through
Loch Eunach and along Glen Eunach, to a confluence
with the Luineag, coming 3i miles west-north-westward
from Loch Morlich ; and, as the Druie, their united
waters flow 1§ mile west-north-westward to the Spey,
nearly opposite Aviemore station. The Spey itself has
here a north-eastward course of 12 J miles — first 2 J along
the Alvie border, next 2| across the interior (parting
Duthil from Rotliiennirchus), and lastly 7 along the
boundary with Abernethy ; its tributary, the Duln.\x,
winds 12^ miles east-nortli-eastward through the interior,
then 1^ mile along the Cromdale border. The largest
of twelve lakes in Duthil proper, with utmost length
and breadth and altitude, are Lochs Mor (3^x§ furl.,
800 feet) and A^ad (3 x 2i furl., 752 feet), whilst ten in
Rothieraurchus include Lochs Eunach (10 x 2J furl.,
1700 feet), An Eilein (7ix4?v furl., 840 feet), Morlich
(8x5 furl., 104G feet), and Phitiulais (5 x 2^ furl., 674
i'eet), the two last lying mainly in Abernethy. Imme-
diately along tlie Spey the surface sinks little below,
and little exceeds, 700 feet above the sea ; and from NE
to SAV, between the Spey and the Dulnan, the chief
elevations, belonging to the Monadhliath range, are
Creag an Fhithich (1325 feet), Docharn Craig (1244),
453
DWARFIE STONE
Cam Lethendy (1415), Beinu Ghuillmicli (1895), Carn
Avie (1907), Garbh-mheall Mor (ISSO), Carn Sleamluiiun
(2217), *Cam Deavg Mor (2337), and *Cuaigellachie
(1500), where asterisks mark those summits that cul-
minate on the borders of the parish. Beyond the Dul-
uan, again, rise TuUochgriban High (1040 feet), *Carn
Allt Laoigh (1872), Creag na h-Iokire (1750), *Carn
Glas (2162), Carn Dubh (1409), luverlaiduan Hill
(1511), *Carn na Larach (1957), Carn Aluinn (1797),
*Carn Phris Mhoir (2021), and *Sgum an Mor (2037).
And lastly from N to S in Rothiemurchus the principal
summits, part of the Cairngorm group, are Cadha Mor
(2313), Carn Elrick (2433), *Castle Hill (2366), Inch-
riach (2766), *Creag na Leacainn (3448), *Braeriacii
(4248), and *Sgoran Dubh (3658). The rocks are
chiefly granitic ; and the arable soil along the Spey and
the Dulnan is mostly alluvial on a deep clay bottom,
that of the higher lands being thin and gravelly, with a
considerable admixture of stones. The cultivated area,
however, bears but a small proportion to moorland and
deer forest, with miles upon miles of pinewood, natural
or planted ; and game has a far higher value than crops
or farm-stock, Rothiemurchus Forest alone letting for
£2300 in 1881. The Indian commander, Gen. Sir
Patrick Grant, G. C. B. , G. C. M. G. , was born in this parish
in 1804. Mansions are the DouNE and Aviemore
House ; and the chief proprietors are the Earl of Seatield,
Sir John P. Grant, and the Duke of Richmond and Gor-
don. In the presbytery of Abernethy and synod of
Moray, the civil parish is divided into the quoad sacra
parishes of Duthil and Rothiem\irchus, the stipend and
communion elements allowance of the former amounting
to £336, 17s. 6d. Duthil church (1826 ; 850 sittings),
at the hamlet, adjoins the splendid Seatield Mausoleum
erected in 1837 ; and Rothiemurchus church stands on
the Spey's right bank, 2^ miles SSW of Aviemore
station. There are also a Free church at Carrbridge,
and the three public schools of Deshar, Duthil, and
Rothiemurchus, the tirst two built in 1876 at a united
cost of £2071. Witli respective accommodation for 120,
120, and 129 children, these had (1880) an average at-
tendance of 68. 52, and 55, and grants of £71, lis.,
£55, 13s., and £56, 3s. Valuation (1843) £3329,
13s. 9d. ; (1881) £9753, 17s. 2d., of which the Earl of
Seafield owned £5963, 14s. Pop. (1801) 1578, (1831)
1895, (1861) 1928, (1871) 1872, (1881) 1664, of whom
1371 belonged to Duthil q. s. parish, and 293 to that of
Rothiemurchus. — Orel. Sur., shs. 74, 64, 1877-74.
Dwaxfie Stone, a remarkable block of sandstone in
Hoy island, Orkney, 2 miles SE of the summit of Wart
Hill. It is 18 feet long, 14 broad, and from 2 to 6 high ;
and has been hollowed out into three chambers.
Whether a Troll's abode, according to the island folklore,
or a Christian hermitage, according to the antiquaries,
it is woven, in Scott's Pirate, into the story of ' Noma
of the Fitful Head.'
Dyce, a village and a parish of SE Aberdeenshire.
The village lies near the Don's right bank, 4| furlongs
NNE of D3'ce Junction on the Great North of Scotland,
this being 6^^ miles NW of Aberdeen, under which it has
a post oflice, with money order, savings' bank, and rail-
way telegrapli departments.
Bounded N by Fintray, NE by New Machar, E by
Old Machar, S by Newhills, and W by Kinnellar, the
parish has an utmost length from E to W of 4g miles,
an utmost breadth from N to S of 3^ miles, and an area of
5285^ acres, of which 48^ are water. The Don, winding 6g
miles east-south-eastward, roughly traces all the Fintray,
New Machar, and Old Machar border, descending in this
course from 146 to 104 feet above sea-level ; and from
its broad level haugh the surface rises to 24vl feet near
Farburn and 822 on wooded Tyrebagger Hill. Gneiss
occurs along the valley of the Don ; but the principal
rock is granite, which, suited alike for building and for
1)aving, has long been worked for exportation to Loudon.
?he soil of the low grounds is a fertile alluvium ; but,
on Tyrebagger, is so thin and moorish as to bo unfit for
either tillage or pasture. Fully one-half of the entire
area is in tillage, extensive reclamations having been
454
DYKE
carried out within the last thirty years ; and plantations
of larch and Scotch firs may cover about one-fourth
more. Antiquities are several tumuli on small emi-
nences ; an ancient Caledonian stone circle, comprising
ten rough granite stones, from 5 to 10 feet high, and
8 feet distant one from another, on a gentle acclivity at
the SE side of TjTebagger ; a large block of granite,
called the Gouk Stone, said to commemorate tho
death of some ancient leader, on the NE of Caskieben ;
and a large, oblong, curiously-sculptured stone, in the
enclosure-wall of the churchyard. Pitmedden and
Caskieben are the chief mansions ; and the property is
divided among 13, 4 holding each an annual value of
£500 and upwards, 3 of between £100 and £500, 1 of
from £50 to £100, and 5 of from £20 to £50. Dyce is
in the presbytery and synod of Aberdeen ; the living is
worth £200. The old parish church, of pre-Reformation.
date, standing inconveniently in the NE, on a rocky
promontory ^washed by a bend of the Don, a handsome
new one has been built, a mile nearer the station, in
the course of the last ten years, at a considerable cost.
There is also a Free church ; and a public and an infant
and female public school, with respective accommoda-
tion for 103 and 100 children, had (1880) an average
attendance of 96 and 70, and grants of £80, 12s. and
£61, 2s. Valuation (1881) £5717, 4s. lOd. Pop.
(1801) 347, (1831) 620, (1851) 470, (1861) 585, (1871)
945, (1881) 1162.— Ord Sur., sh. 77, 1873.
Dye Water, a stream of Strachan parish, Kincardine-
shire, rising, at an altitude of 2000 feet, on the south-
eastern slope of Mount Battock (2558 feet), near the
meeting-point of Kincardine, Forfar, and Aberdeen
shires. Thence it winds 7| miles eastward and 7| miles
north-by-eastward, till, after a total descent of 1740
feet, it falls into the Feugh, | mile WSW of Strachan
church. Ti'aversing a rocky Highland glen (Glen Dye),
it is subject to sudden and violent freshets, and abounds
in trout of about ^ lb. each. — Orel. Sur., sh. 66, 1871.
Dye Water, a stream of Longforraacus and Cranshaws
parishes, in the Lammermuir district of Berwickshire.
It rises, at an altitude of 1600 feet, on the Haddington-
shire border, 2^ miles E by S of Lanner Law, and
thence winds 13| miles eastward, till, after a total
descent of 1000 feet, it falls into the Whitadder, | mile
WSW of Ellcm inn. A little above Longformacus vil-
lage it receives Watch Water, running 6 miles east-by-
uorthward through or along the eastern border of the
southern section of Cranshaws ; passes, higher up, the
curious old shooting-box of Bykecleuch ; and every-
where, but especially in its upper reaches, abounds in
excellent ivowt.— Orel. Sur., sh. 33, 1863.
Dye Water. See West Water.
Dyke, a village of NW Elginshire, and a parish
partly also in Nairnshire. The village stands on the
left bank of the Muckle Burn, 1 mile NE of Brodie
station on the Highland railway, this being 6 miles E
of Nairn and 3^ W by S of the post-town, Forres. On a
rising-ground at the N end of the village is the new
school, built in 1877 at a cost of over £1500, Elizabethan
in style, with belfry and clock-tower.
The parish, containing also the villages of Kintessack
and Broom of Moy, comprises the ancient parishes of
Dyke and Moy, united to each other in 1618. It is
bounded NW and N by the Moray Firth, E by Kinloss
and Forres, SE by Edinkillie, S\V by Ardclach, and W
by Auldearn. Rudely resembling a triangle in outline,
with southward apex, it has an utmost length from
NNE to SSW of 9^ miles, an utmost breadth from E
to W of 4J miles, and an area of 15,464 acres,
inclusive of 1496^ acres of foreshore and 257^ of water,
but exclusive of 29 acres, to the E of the Findhorn,
belonging to Nairnshire (detached). Roughly tracing
all the eastern boundary, the Findhorn flows 6^
miles north-north-eastward to its mouth in the
Moray Firth, just above which it is joined by the
Muckle Burn, M-iuding 10| miles north-eastward
along the Auhlearn Ijorder and through the interior.
Buckie Loch (5^ x IJ furl.) lies close to the coast-
line, which, 6^ miles long, is everywhere low, backed
DYKEHEAD
DYSART
"by the Cttlbin Sandhills (99 feet). Inland the surface
is mostly low and level, near Loanhcad attaining its
highest point (134 feet) to the N of the railway, but
rising S thereof to 105 feet at Feddan, 184 near Logie-
buchany, and 500 at the southern extremity of the
parish, near Craigiemore. Crystalline rocks prevail
from Sluie to the head of the parish ; and Devonian,
with some belonging to later formations, in all other
parts. The soil throughout the level central district is
highly fertile ; and elsewhere is of various character.
Less than a fifth of the entire area is in tillage, about
one-thirteenth is pasture, and the remainder is either
waste or woodlands. The latter cover a very large ex-
tent, and include some of the finest trees in Scotland.
Among those of Brodie, planted between 1650 and 1680,
are three ash-trees (the largest 76 feet high, and girthing
21 at 1 foot from the ground), four oaks (do. 71, 16),
five beeches (do. 81, 18), a sycamore (69, 12^), and
a Spanish chestnut (41, 15) ; among those of Darnaway,
two ash-trees (the largest, 50 and 24J), five oaks (do.
65, 27f), and a beech (65, 16|) — these measurements
being taken from tables in Trans. Ilighl. and Ag. Soc.
for 1879-81. Hardmuir, a little WSW of Brodie station,
is celebrated as the ' blasted heath, ' now planted, whereon
Macbeth met the weird sisters of Forres. Mansions, all
noticed separately, are Darnaway Castle, Brodie House,
Dalvey, Moy, and Kincorth ; and the parish is divided
among 11 proprietors, 5 holding each an annual value
of £500 and upwards, 1 of between £100 and £500, 2 of
from £50 to £100, and 3 of from £20 to £50. Dyke
and Moy is in the presbytery of Forres and synod of
Moray ; the living is vrorth £400. The parish church,
built in 1781, contains 850 sittings. There is also a
Free church ; and Dyke and Kintessack public schools,
■with respective accommodation for 220 and 57 children,
had (1880) an average attendance of 114 and 36, and
grants of £100, 3s. and £31, 6s. Valuation (1881)
£9059, of which £45 belonged to the Nairnshire section.
Pop. (1801) 1492, (1831) 1451, (1861)1247, (1871) 1238,
(1881) l-2Z6.—Ord. Sur.,_ shs. 84, 94, 1876-73.
Dykehead, a village in Shotts parish, NE Lanark-
shire, ^ mile W of Shotts station. It stands amid a
bleak moorish country, but derives prosperity from ex-
tensive neighbouring mineral works.
Dykehead, a village in Old Monkland parish, Lanark-
shire, IJ mile E of Baillieston.
Dykehead, a village in Cortachy parish, NW Forfar-
shire, near the right bank of the river South Esk, 6
miles N of Kirriemuir.
Dykehead. See Dullatur.
D3n:ock, a burn in Kirkmichael parish, Ajrrshire. It
issues from Shankston Loch, on the boundary with
Straiten ; runs about 4 miles westward and west-south-
westward past Kirkmichael village ; and falls into Girvan
Water about a mile NNE of Crossbill.
Dysart. See Maryton.
Dysajt, a coast tovm and parish of Fife. A royal and
parliamentary burgh, the to-mi is built on the slope of
a hill, above the northern shore of the Firth of Forth,
10| miles NNE of Leith by water, whilst its station on
the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee section of the North
British is 2 J miles NE of Kirkcald)-, 8 NE of Burnt-
island, 17i NNE of Edinburgh, 2| S by E of Thornton
Junction, and 16^ SSAV of Cupar. Its parliamentary
boundary includes the three villages of Gallatown (f
mile NNW), Sinclairtown (f mile WNW), and Path-
head (1 mile WSW), which otherwise rather form a
north-north-eastward extension of Kirkcaldy, and
indeed were incorporated (1876) in the municipal burgh
of that ' lang toun ; ' so that here we need trouble our-
self with little more than the royal burgh, or Dysart
I)roper. This is a place of hoar anticjuity, its history
beginning with the half mythical St Serf, who is said
to liave held his famous discussion with Satan in a cave
in Lord Rosslyn's gi-ounds above the Old Church, and
whose cell, the said cave (Lat. dcsertum, ' a solitude '),
is supposed to have given the town its name. A stand-
ing stone, a mile to the N, marks, says tradition, the
spot where a battle was fought with invading Danes in
874 ; in 1470 the neighbouring castle of Raa'enscraig
was granted by James III. to William, third Earl of
Orkney, ancestor of the St Clairs of Rosslyn. Under them
Dysart was a burgh of barony, till early in the 16th
century it was raised to a roj-al burgh by James V., who
further exempted it from customs' vassalage to Inver-
keithing. So long ago as 1450 its ' canty carles ' made
and shipped salt to home and foreign ports ; and other
thriving industries of this ' Little Holland ' were fish-
curing, malting, brewing, and coal-mining, — thriving,
at least, till the Union, which dealt a great blow to
Dysart, as to all other ports of Fife. Modern Dysart is
just old Dysart at second-hand. Tlie arrangement of
the streets — three narrow ducts, uncertain lanes, a few
scattered houses landward, and a central square — is
much the same ; and many of the old houses still live
decrepitly within the burgh bounds. On some are the
booth-keepers' piazza marks ; on others half-effaced
pious legends and dates ; elsewhere Flemish architecture,
outside stairs, roofs banked ■v^dth grey stone, and such-
like ■wrinkles of antiquity imprinted haggardly on the
to^mi. One largish block of such houses, dating from
1660, was demolished in 1876, to widen the Coalgate ;
and some of these contained deep hiding-holes for
smuggled goods, the contraband trade having arisen as
legitimate commerce declined. The town-hall, standing
in the middle of the to^vn, was built in 1617, and serving
Cromwell's troopers as both a barrack and a magazine,
was almost destroyed by an accidental explosion. It
lay in ruins for several years, and now is a plain, strong,
rubble-work structm-e, vdih a tower and spire, a council
room, and a disused lock-up. By Cromwell, too, the
' Fort, ' a high rock, nearly in the middle of the har-
bour, is said to have been fortified, though it shows no
traces of fortification works. A fragment of an ancient
structure, long used as a smithy, bears the name of St
Dennis' Chapel, and by some is held to have been the
church of a priory of Black Friars, by others to have
been sei-ved by a single priest. A little to the E of it
stand the nave and saddle-roofed tower of the ruinous
kirk of St Serf, Second Pointed in style, and therefore
a good deal earlier than the date 1570 on one of its niul-
lionless ■windows. The present parish chm'ch, erected
in 1802 at a cost of £1900, is a very plain building,
containing 1600 sittings. A cruciform Gothic Free
church, rebuilt in 1873-74, is a solid-looking edifice,
■with a bulky broached spire ; and the U.P. church, also
Gothic in style, and also \vith a spire, is seated for 600,
and was rebuilt in 1867 at a cost of over £2500. Two
public schools. North and South Dysart, with respective
accommodation for 246 and 291 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 215 and 175, and grants of £191,
Is. 6d. and £147, 14s. 6d. The town has, besides, a
post oflice under Kirkcaldy, with money order, savings'
bank, insurance, and telegraph departments, a branch
of the Bank of Scotland, gas-works (1843), a subscription
reading-room and library, and fairs on 6 May, the third
Tuesday of June, the fourth Wednesday of August, and
8 November. Nail-making, which towards the close of
last century employed 100 smiths and turned out yearly
twelve millions of nails of £2000 value, had all but
become extinct by 1836 ; but flax-spinnijig and the
weaving of linen and woollen
I'abrics, which last, introduced
in 1715, produced half a cen-
tury since some 31,000,000 yards
of cloth a year, worth fully
£150,000, are still carried on in
thiee establishments, though to
a smaller extent. The harbour,
rom prising an outer basin and an
inner wet-dock (once a quarry)
with 18 feet of water and berth-
age for 17 or 18 vessels, is ample
enough for all the scant com-
merce Dysart still retains, and has a patent slip capable
of taking up a ship of 400 tons burden. Governed by a
provost, a first and second bailie, a treasurer, a chamber-
lain, and 5 councillors, Dysart unites with Kirkcaldy,
455
Seal of Uvsart.
EACHAIG
Kinghorn, and Burntisland in returning a member to
parliament. Its parliamentary constituency numbered
1771, and its municipal 399, in 1882, when the annual
value of real property within the parliamentary burgh
was £35,156, 10s. 9d., whilst the corporation revenue
for 1881 was £1152, 3s. 3id. Pop. of royal burgh (1831)
1801, (1851) 1610, (1861)*i755, (1871) 1812, (1881) 2623 ;
of parliamentary burgh (1851) 8041, (1861) 8066, (1871)
8919, (1881) 10,874. Houses in latter (1881) 2440 in-
habited, 166 vacant, 15 building.
The parish of Dysart, containing also Gallatown,
Sinclairtown, and Pathhead, with most of Boreland
village, is bounded N by Kinglassie, NE by Markinch,
E by Wemyss, SE by the Firth of Forth, and W by
Kirkcaldy, Abbotshall, Auchterderran, and Kinglassie.
Its utmost length, from NNW to SSE, is 4 miles ; its
width, from E to W, varies between If and 2|
miles ; and its area is 4197 acres. Lochty P)urn
flows 2^ miles east-by-southward along all the northern
boundarj-, on its way to the sluggish Ore, which
itself ^^ands 3 miles east-by-northward across the
northern interior and along the Markinch border. The
bold and rocky coast-line, 2| miles long, rises steeply to
178 feet at the north-eastern extremity of the town ; in-
land, the surface undulates gently, attaining 226 feet
near Gallatown, 300 near Carberry, 271 near Bogleys, 218
near Middle Balbeiggay, and 227 near Wester Strathore,
whilst dipping slightly towards the above-named streams.
The rocks, belonging to the Carboniferous formation, in-
clude excellent sandstone, claystone, limestone, iron-
stone, and coal, all of which have been largely worked.
As a coal district Dysart has long been famous. Four
centuries have passed since first the coal was worked in
sliallow mines, the excavations increasing to their
present gigantic extent. The coal has been often on
fire ; and in the burgh records for 1578 we read that
'ane evil air enterit the main heuch, the door being then
at the west entrie of the toun.' This evil air set the
mine on fire. Again and again combustion took place
— in 1622, 1741, and 1790 — Assuring and scorching the
earth, causing Regent Buchanan of St Andrews to wi'ite
Latin hexameters on its startling effects upon the
scenery, and giving commemorative names to streets
and lanes in the vicinity. The soil is generally good,
and the entire area is in tillage, with the exception of a
EAGLESHAM
few acres of pasture and some 400 under wood. An
antiquity, other than Ravenscraig Castle and the stand-
ing stone, was a so-called Roman camp at Carberry,
which, however, has long since wholly disappeared ; the
Red Rocks, too, to the E of the town, are associated by
legend with the burning of certain witches. Three
natives of Dysart were Robert Beatson of Vicarsgrange,
LL.D. (1741-1818), an author; David Pitcairn, M.D.
(1749-1809), an eminent physician ; and William Wal-
lace (1768-1843), a mathematician. The title Earl of
Dysart, conferred in 1643 on William Murray, sou of
the Rev. William Murray, minister of Dysart and pre-
ceptor to Charles I. , passed to his elder daughter, who
married first Sir Lionel Tollemache of Helmingham
Hall, in Suffolk, and secondly the celebrated Duke of
Lauderdale ; it now is held by her eighth descendant by
her first marriage, William John Manners Tollemache,
who, born in 1859, succeeded as eighth Earl in 1878,
and has his seats at Ham House in Surrey and Buck-
minster Park in Leicestershire. Dysart House, a little
W of the toAvn, is a plain but commodious mansion,
with beautiful gardens, commanding a splendid view
across the Firth ; and is the Scottish seat of Francis
Robert St Clair Erskine, fourth Earl of Rosslyn since
1801 (b. 1833 ; sue. 1866), who owns 3221 acres in Fife,
valued at £9673 per annum, including £1224 for
minerals. (See Roslin. ) Six other proprietors hold each
an annual value of £500 and upwards, 17 of between
£100 and £500, 17 of from £50 to £100, and 92 of from
£20 to £50. Dysart is in the presbytery of Kirkcaldy
and synod of Fife ; and the charge is collegiate ; the
first minister's stipend being £373 with manse and glebe
worth £71, 10s., and the second's £317, 8s. 6d., whilst
ecclesiastically the parish is divided into Dysart proper
and Pathhead. The four public schools of Gallatown,
Pathhead, Sinclairtown, and Boreland, with respective
accommodation for 205, 375, 300, and 87 children, had
(1880) an average attendance of 240, 361, 379, and 46, and
grants of £197, lis., £315, 8s. 6d., £331, 12s. 6d., and
£25, 13s. lid. Valuation (1865) £15,489, 8s. 2d., (1882)
£42,707, 9s. 2d. Pop. (1801) 5385, (1831) 7104, (1861)
8842, (1871) 9682, (1881) 11,627.— Orf^. Stir., sh. 40,
1867. See Notices from the Local Records of Dysart
(Glasg., Maitland Club, 1853), and W. Muir's Gleanings
from tlie Records of Dysart, 1545-1796 (Edinb. 1862).
E
EACHAIG, a small river in the Kilmun portion of
the united parish of Dunoon and Kilmun, Argyll-
shire. Issuing from the foot of Locli Eck, it
winds 5;| miles south-south-eastward along Strath
Eachaig to the head of Holy Loch, on its right side
receiving the JIassan near Bunmore House and the Little
Eachaig very near its mouth, a little higlier up being
spanned by an iron bridge of 1878 on the Inverary
route. It is a very good salmon and trout stream,
let to a Glasgow Angling Club. — Ord. Sur., sh. 29,
1875.
Eagerness or Eggemess (' Edgar's ness'), a headland
of Sorbie parish, E Wigtownshire, flanking the N side
of Garliestown Bay, 6'^ miles SE by S of Wigtown. Pro-
jecting f mile from the mainland, and contracting from
a width of 7^ furlongs to a point, it rises to a height of
100 feet, and presents a rocky though not precipitous
face to the sea. On its eastern side stood Eggerness
Castle, whose scanty ruin is so overgrown with brush-
wood and rank vegetation as to be hardly discernible.
Its date and history are alike unknown. — Ord. Sur., sh.
4, 1857.
Eagle. See Edzell.
Eaglescamie, an estate, with a mansion, in Bolton
parish, Haddingtonshire, on the left bank of Gilford or
Coalstoun Water, 4J miles S by E of Hadtlington. Its
owner, Alexander Charles Stuart, Esq. (b. 1814 ; sue.
456
1855), holds 465 acres in the shire, valued at £627 per
annum.
Eaglesfield, a village in Middlebie parish, Dumfries-
shire, on the right side of Kirtle Water, 7 furlongs NNE
of Kirtlebridge station on the Caledonian, and 2| miles
E of Ecclefechan, under which it has a post office, with
money order and savings' bank departments. Here is
also a General Assembly's school.
Eaglesham, a village and a parish of SE Renfrewshire.
The village, standing 500 feet, above sea-level, is 4 miles
S of liusby, 8h S of Glasgow, 11 SE of Paisley, and 3| S
by E of Clarkston station on the East Kilbride branch
of the Caledonian, with which it communicates by
omnibus. Successor to an older village that during the
reign of Charles II. was important enough to acquire by
act of parliament a weekly market, it was founded by
the twelfth Earl of Eglinton in 1796, and, had its
founder's plan been carried out, would have ranked
second to scarce a small town in Scotland. Even as it
is, it presents a remarkably regular and pleasant aspect,
with its double row of neat two-story houses, facing
each other at the distance of 100 yards at the upper and
250 at tlie lower end ; wliilst midway between them
flows a rivulet, whose gently-slo])ing banks are partly
greensward, partly adorned with trees. The parish
cliurch (1790 ; 550 sittings) is a plain structure with
a chaste steeple ; and other places of worship are a
EA6LESHA7
U.P. church (350 sittings), a Free church (320 sittings),
and St Bridget's Roman Catholic church (1858 ; 350
sittings). Eaglesham has besides a post office under
Glasgow, a branch of the Clydesdale Bank, 2 hotels,
gas-works, and a flower show on the third Thursday of
August o.s. Handloom weaving, once the staple in-
dustry, is all but extinct ; and a cotton -mill, some
j'ears ago destroyed by fire, has never been rebuilt.
Hence the rapid decrease in the number of the inhabit-
ants. Now, however, the bracing and healthy air is
proving a strong attraction to many Glasgow families,
and in summer there is a large influx of visitors. A
public and a girls' industrial school, with respective
accommodation for 166 and 150 children, had (1880) an
average attendance of 125 and 52, and grants of £109,
7s. lOd. and £39, 2s. Pop. (1861) 1769, (1871) 1237,
(1881) 885.
The parish is bounded NW by Mcarns, NE by Cath-
cart and East Kilbride in Lanarkshire, E and SE by
East Kilbride, S by Loudoun in AjTshire, and SW by
Fenwick, likewise in Ayrshire. Its utmost length, from
NW to SE, is 6 J miles ; its utmost breadth, from NE
to SW, is 5^ miles ; and its area is 16,003| acres, of
•which 3371 are water. White Cart Water, gathering
its head-streams from the eastern moors, winds 5^ miles
north-westward along all the north-eastern border ; and
Eakn Water flows to it north-eastward along the boun-
dary with Mearns ; whilst through the interior run
Ardoch and Boreland Burns, with others of its tribu-
taries. In the S, however, rise several affluents and
sub-afiluents of the river Irvine. To the SW lie Binend
Loch (5x2 furl.), Dunwan Dam (7 J x 3), and Loch
GoiN or Blackwater Dam (7x3); nearer the village are
High Dam (If x 1^), Mid Dam (1 x f ), and Picketlaw
Reservoir (2 x 1^). In the furthest N the surface sinks
along the Cart to 380 feet above sea-level, thence rising
to 832 at Moor-Yett plantation, 1084 at Balagich Hill,
1035 at Blackwood Hill, 987 at Melowther Hill, and
1230 near the south-eastern border. The rocks, with
slight exception, are alternations of greenstone, clay-
stone, and greywacke— part of the great trap mass that
predominates so extensively in the hills of Renfrewshire.
The soil, though reposing almost everywhere on trap,
varies greatly in quality, some parts being specially rich,
and others being represented b)'- barren moors or deep
bogs. The pasture is generally excellent. About five-
twelfths of the entire area are under cultivation, three-
fourteenths are meadow or natural pasture, 178| acres
are under wood, and all the rest is either moss or
moor. The moors, especially about Loch Goin, figure
often in the history of the Covenant, two of whose
martyrs rest in the parish kirkyard. North Moorhouse
farm, near Earn Water, 3 miles to the W of the village,
was the birthplace of Robert Pollok (1799-1827), the
gifted author of the Course of Tune ; and in that epic
one lights again and again on sketches of the ' hills and
streams and melancholy deserts ' round his home, that
home overshadowed by four goodly trees —
' Three ash and one of elm. Tall trees they were,
And old ; and had been old a century
Before my day.'
The barony of Eaglesham formed part of the grant made
by David I. (1124-53) to Walter, the founder of the
house of Stewart, by whom it was transferred to Robert
de Montgomery ; and it was long the Montgomeries'
chief possession, Sir John, who wedded the heiress of
Eglixton, here building the castle of Polxoon towards
the close of the 14th century. Eaglesham House,
late Polnoon Lodge, to the NE of the village, is
the seat of Allan Gilmour, Esq. (b. 1820 ; sue. 1849),
who owns 16,516 acres in the shire, valued at £12,106
per annum. With the exception of 10 acres, he is sole
proprietor. Eaglesham is in the presbytery of Glasgow
and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth
£369. Valuation (1860) £11,350, (1882) £14,731, 12s. 6d.
Pop. (1801) 1176, (1831) 2372, (1851) 2524, (1861) 2328,
(1871) 1714, (1881) 1382.— Cz-c^. Sur., sh. 22, 1865.
Eagleshay or Egilshay, a low-lying island of Rousay
parish, Orkney, separated I'rom the E side of Rousay
EAELSFERB7
island by Howa Sound, and lying 11 miles N of Kirk-
wall. It measures 3 miles in length from N to S,
by 1^ mile in breadtli, and includes a small bay of
shell sand, a large tract of benty sand, burrowed by
hundreds of rabbits, and a small fresh-water lake. The
rocks belong to the Lower Old Red sandstone, and the
soil is good, but poorly cultivated. Dr Baikie of Tanker-
ness is the proprietor. Eagleshay is notable as the
place where St Magnus was murdered by his cousin
Hakon about the year 1110 ; and at its western ex-
tremity, on the scene, it is said, of his murder, are the
remains of a small ancient church of St Magnus, with a
round tower at its W end, and a vaulted choir at the E.
There is a public school under Rousay school-board.
Pop. (1831) 228, (1851) 192, (1861) 205, (1871) 163,
(1881) 158.
Eagleshay or Egilshay, an island of Northmaven
parish, Shetland, in Islesburgh cove, on the E of St
Magnus Bay. It measures about 1^ mile both in length
and in breadth, is excellent grazing-ground, and teems
with rabbits.
Eagton or Eglin Lane, a troutful stream in the SE of
Straiten parish, Ayrshire. Issuing from Loch Enoch
(1650 feet), at the boundary with Kirkcudbrightshire,
it runs 61 miles north-north-eastward to the head of
Loch Doon (680 feet), and receives by the way the
efiiuents of Lochs Macaterick and RiecawT.
Ealan. See Ellan.
Eanaig or Einig, a stream in Kincardine parish, Ross-
shire, formed by the confluence of Rappach Water and
Abhuinn Dubhach, and running 4 miles east-north-
eastward to the Oykell, at a point | mile SE of Oykell-
Bridge. It is a good trouting stream, also frequented
by grilse. —Orc^. Hur., sh. 102, 1881.
Earbusaig. See Lochalsh.
Earlcaimey, a dilapidated cairn in Dalmeny parish,
Linlithgowshire, on the top of a high sea-bank, 1 mile
W of Barnbougle Castle. It was originally 500 feet in
circumference, and 24 feet high.
Earl's Bum, a rivulet in the W of St Ninians parish,
Stirlingshire, rising at an altitude of 1300 feet, just
within the confines of Gargunnock parish. Thence it
runs 6^ miles south-south-eastward among the Lennox
Hills, till, after a total descent of 550 feet, it falls into
Carron Water at the SW base of Dundaif Hill (1157
feet), 5J miles W by N of Denny. A reservoir, feeding
the mills of Denny, was formed near its source, about
1834, by means of an embankment 22 feet high, at a
cost of close upon £2000 ; covers an area of nearly 60
acres; and, in October 1839, after a heavy rain, burst
the embankment, rushed down in impetuous torrent,
and did great damage to property along all the course
of the Carron.— Or-d Sur., shs. 39, 31, 1869-67.
Earl's Cross. See Dornoch.
Earlsferry, a decayed coast village possessing the status
of a royal burgh, in Kilconquhar parish, Fife, immedi-
ately W of Elie. It is
traditionally said to have
been constituted a burgh
by Malcolm Ceannmor
at the request of Mac-
duft; Earl of Fife, who,
in his flight from the
vengeance of ilacbeth,
was concealed in a cave
at Kincraig Point, and
thence was ferried over
the firth to Dunbar by
fishermen of the place.
The legend on the face
of it is false ; but, what-
ever its date, the original
charter having been ac-
cidentally destroyed by fire in Edinburgh, James VI.
granted a new one in 1589, which speaks of Earls-
ferry as ' of old, past memory of man, erected into ane
free burgh.' Then and afterwards it seems to have
been a place of considerable trade, with two weekly
markets and two annual fairs, the privilege of levying
457
Seal of Earlsferry.
EAULSHALL
dues and customs, and the right of returning a member
to Parliament. These are all things of the past ; but
Earlsferry still is governed by a chief magistrate, a
bailie, a treasurer, and six councillors, and has its new
town-hall (1872), a branch of the National Bank, a
local savings' bank, a gas company, and a public school.
The annual value of real property was £924, lis. in
1882, when the municipal constituency numbered 45,
whilst the corporation revenue for 1881 was £86. Pop.
(1841) 496, (1861) 395, (1871) 406, (1881) 286. See
Elie.
Earlshall, an ancient mansion in Leuchars parish,
Fife, 7 furlongs ESE of Leuchars village. Said to have
been named from a former estate of the Earls of Fife,
it was built in years from 1546 till 1620, and was for
generations the seat of the family of Bruce. It mainly
consists of a square tower, and it contains a great hall,
50 feet long and 18 wide, with a fine arched roof, on
which are emblazoned the arms of the Bruces and of
numerous great houses with which they were allied by
marriage. It continued to be inhabited down into the
present century, and it stands in a small park, planted
with venerable trees.
Earl's Hill, one of the Lennox Hills in the W of St
Ninians parish, Stirlingshire, 6 miles SW of Stirling.
It rises to an altitude of 1443 feet above sea-level, and
adjoins other summits of not much inferior height.
Earlsmill, a station in Keith parish, Banftshire, on
the Keith, Dufl'town, and Craigellachie section of the
Great North of Scotland railway, | mile SSW of Keith
station.
Earl's Seat, a hill at the meeting-point of Killearn,
Campsie, and Strathblane parishes, Stirlingshire. The
highest of the Lennox range, it culminates, 3 miles N
by E of Strathblane village, at an altitude of 1894 feet
above sea-level. Southward it projects an offshoot
called the Little Earl ; on E and AV it is flanked by two
hills of 1345 and 1781 feet in height ; and it sends off
from its southern slopes Finglen and Ballagan Burns. —
Orel. Sur., sh. 30, 1866.
Earlston, a small town and a parish of Lauderdale, SW
Berwickshire. The town stands, 345 feet above sea-level,
near the left bank of Leader Water, at the western
confines of the parish, by road being 4 miles NNE of
Melrose, 7i SSE of Lauder, and 31 SE of Edinburgh ;
whilst its station on the Berwickshire section of the
North British is 4^ miles N by AV of St Boswells
Junction, and 17^ WSW of Dunse. Its ancient church,
in connection with which the town in all probability
arose and grew into any importance, was granted about
the middle of the 12th century by Walter de Lindsay to
the monks of Kelso, and by them was transferred in
1171, in exchange for Gordon, to their brethren of
Coldingham, who continued to watch over it and the
spiritual interests at stake in the district on to the time
of the Reformation. Situated, as it is, not far from
Dryburgh and Melrose Abbeys, it appears to have been
in early times a place of some importance — ecclesiastical
probably, to judge from the reported occasional visits
of David I. of pious memory. From the family of
Lindsay the manor passed into the hands of the Earls
of Dunbar, and hence the older name of Ercildounc
came to be changed to Earlstoun or Earlston. Under
its present superior, the Earl of Haddington, the town
is governed by a baron bailie ; and courts are still held
in it, consisting of two ' bourlawmeu,' a survival this of
the ancient border ' Birley Courts.' Its chief historical
interest, however, centres in the memorials and tradi-
tions which connect it with Thomas the Rhymer, a stone
embedded in the wall of the parish church bearing in-
scription, 'Auld Rhymer's race lies in this place.'
' Thomas Rimor do Ercildun ' appears as witness to a
charter of Petrus de Haga to Dryburgh Abbey, which
charter Mr John Russell, in his Ilairjs of Bcmersyde
(1881), assigns to somewhere between 1260 and 1270 ;
and a fragment of the ' Rhymer's To\v(M' ' still stands be-
tween the town and Leader Water. He seems to have
been dead by 1299 ; and a JIS. of the early part of the
14th century, supposed by Prof. Veitch to be earlier than
458
EARLSTON
1320, contains what was said to be one of his predic-
tions, many of which are scattered through this work
under Ale, Bass, Cowdenknowes, Criffel, etc. He
has been styled the ' Father of Scottish poetry,' and his
claim to the title would rest on secure foundation, if
only one could positively ascribe to him the authorship
of Sir Tristrem, and of the three-fytte Prophecy, best
known in its ballad versions. These tell how, as he lay
on Huntly Bank, the Fairy Queen rode by on a milk-
white palfrey, and how, having kissed her under the
Eildon tree, he was taken by her to Elfland, where
through the bite of an apple he gained a perilous
guerdon, the tongue that could never lie. Seven
years he tarried in Elfland, and then was permitted
to revisit earth only on the condition that he should,
when summoned, return to his mistress the queen.
And so, as he sat one evening carousing in his tower
with some boon companions, a messenger rushed in, in
breathless haste, to beg him to come forth and break
the spell of a portent which troubled the village.
Straightway the Rhymer obeyed the summons, and
hurrying out saw a hart and a hind from the neigh-
bouring forest pacing slow and stately up and down
the street. The animals at sight of him quietl}^ made
off for the forest ; and, with a last farewell to Ercil-
doune. True Thomas followed them, thenceforth to
' dree his weird ' in Fairyland. Nor, though the voice
of tradition predicts his return to earth, has he ever
again been seen in the haunts of living men. (See
EiLDON Hills.) His spirit, however, appears to
have lingered in the tower he left, for his mantle was
reputed to have descended on the shoulders of 'one
Murray, a kind of herbalist, who, by dint of some
knowledge of simples, the possession of a musical clock,
an electrical machine, and a stuffed alligator, added to
a supposed communication with Thomas, lived for
many years in very good credit as a wizard.' So Sir
Walter in his Scottish Minstrelsy ; but Mr Robert
Chambers, in Pojmlar Rhymes of Scotland, shows that
this hearsay account refers to Mr Patrick Murray, an
enlightened and respectable medical practitioner, of
good family connections, talents, and education, who,
in 1747, possessed, with other property, the Rhymer's
Tower, and there pursued various studies of a philo-
sophical kind, not very common in Scotland during the
ISth century.
The town extends eastward at right angles to Leader
Water, and consists of plain business premises and dwell-
ing-houses, many of the latter only one story high.
It is lighted with gas, well drained, supplied with good
water, and beautifully situated in a pleasant valley en-
girt by hills of moderate elevation. The inhabitants
are dependent partly on agriculture, partly on dyeing
and on the manufacture of woollen and other textures,
such as tweeds, shirtings, and ' Earlston ginghams.'
The town has a post office under Melrose, with money
order, savings' bank, and telegraph departments, a
branch (1862) of the Commercial Bank, 8 insurance
agencies, 2 hotels, a spacious corn exchange, a reading-
room and liln-ary (1856), horticultural and friendly
societies, billiard and curling clubs, and a volunteer
corps. A weekly grain market on Monday was in-
stituted at the opening of the Berwickshire railway in
1863, a fortnightly stock sale in 1864 ; and cattle and
horse fairs are held on 29 June and the third Thursday
of October, besides hiring fairs on the last Monday of
February, the first Monday of April, and the Monday
before the third Thursday of October. The parish
church of 1756, as renewed and enlarged in 1834, con-
tains 600 sittings. There are also two U.P. churches —
the East (400 sittings) and the West (330 sittings).
Pop. (1861) 980, (1871) 1168, (1881) 1010.
The parish, containing also the hamlet of Redpath,
is bounded N by Legerwood and Gordon, E by Humo
and Nenthorn, S by Smailholm in Roxljurghsliire and
by Murton, and W by Melrose in Roxburglishire. Its
length, from E to W, varies between 1| and 7 miles;
its utmost breadth, from N to S, is 3| miles ; and its
area is 10,009^ acres, of which 41 are water. Leadeb
EARLSTON
"Water winds 4| miles southward, for the first 5 furlongs
cutting off a small north-western wing of Earlston, but
elsewhere tracing its boundary with Melrose ; and Edex
"Water runs 3^ miles south-by-westward along all the
Nenthorn border. Between these troutful streams the
surface rises — in places steeply from the Leader — to 825
feet on Huntshaw Hill, 708 near Crossrigs, 1031 on
conical Black Hill of Earlston, 885 near Craig House,
and 806 near Darlingfield. Black Hill is porphyritic,
overlying red sandstone ; and at the E end of Earlston
the pelvis and other bones of the Ccrvus dcqjkus have
been found, 12 feet from the surface, in a vegetalde
deposit, above which were marly and reddish clays. The
soil is in some parts clayey, in others a light dry loam ;
while elsewhere it is strong and very fertile. There
is a good deal of marshy ground in the E, and in the N are
several hundred acres of moss. About two -thirds of the
entire area are in tillage, woodlands cover nearly one-
ninth, and the rest is either pastoral or waste. On the
summit of Black Hill are the remains of a camp,
commonly said to be Roman, but probably of native
origin. Mansions are Mellerstain, Cowdenknowes,
Carolside, and Kirklands ; and the Earl of Haddington
is chief proprietor, 2 others holding each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 8 of from £100 to £500,
11 of from £50 to £100, and 29 of from £20 to £50.
Earlston is the seat of a presbytery n the synod of Merse
and Teviotdale, which was, till recently, for an interval
of a century, designated the presbytery of Lauder ; the
living is worth £298. A new public school, erected at
the town in 1876 at a cost of £2470, with accommodation
for 323 pupils, had (1880) an average attendance of 215,
and a grant of £204, 14s. 6d. "Valuation (1864) £11,119,
(1882) £14,022, 10s. Pop. (1801) 1478, (1831) 1710,
(1861) 1825, (1871) 1977, (1881) 1767.— Ord. Sur., sh.
25, 1865.
The presbytery of Earlston comprises the parishes of
Channelkirk, Earlston, Gordon, Lauder, Legerwood,
Mertoun, Smailholm, Stow, and "Westruther. Pop.
(1871) 10,212, (1881) 9503, of whom 2972 were communi-
cants of the Church of Scotland in 1878.
See an article by G. Tait in Procs. Berwickshire Natu-
ralists' Cluh (1867) ; Dr J. A. H. Murray's Romance and
Pro2)hecies of Thomas of Ercildoune (Early Eng. Text
Soc. 1875) ; and chap. viii. of Prof. John "V^eitch's
History and Poetry of the Scottish Border (1878).
Eaxlston, a mansion in Borgue parish, S Kirkcud-
brightshire, 4| miles "WS"W of Kirkcudbright, and 5
SSE of Gatehouse. A large and elegant edifice, built
about 1835, and embosomed among woods, it is the
seat of Sir "William Gordon, sixth Bart, since 1706 (b.
1830 ; sue. 1843), who was one of the 'Five Hundred'
in the famous Balaclava charge, and who owns 765
acres in the shire, valued at £1179 per annum.
Earlston, an old castle and a burn in Dairy parish, N
Kirkcudbrightshire. The castle, standing near the left
bank of the Ken, 2 miles N by AV of Dairy village, has
the form of a tall square towei-, and bears over its door
the date 1655. It was the seat of Sir "William Gordon's
ancestors, who figured prominently among the Cove-
nanters ; has long been unoccupied, but retains a .strong
oaken roof ; and might easily be rendered habitable.
Earlston Burn runs 4 miles south-westward to the Ken,
and, in the southern vicinity of the castle, makes a fine
waterfall, called Earlston Linn.
Earn, a rivulet of SE Renfrewshire, rising at the
boundary with Ayrshire, and running 6 miles north-
eastward along the mutual border of Eaglesham and
Mearns parishes to the "White Cart, at a point 2 miles
N of Eaglesham village. Professor Wilson, while a
pupil at the manse of Mearns, fished often in its waters;
and Pollok, the author of the Course of Time, spent a
large portion of his few years on earth among its seques-
tered banks and braes. — Ord. Sur., sh. 22, 1865.
Earn, a loch and a river, giving the name of Strath-
earn to its basin. The lake impinges, at its head, on
Balquhidder parish, but elsewhere belongs to the
western or upper part of Comrie. It commences
near Lochearnhead village, at the foot of Glen Ogle ;
EARN
is approached there by the Callander and Oban Railway;
and extends in a direction of E by N to the village of
St Fillans. Lying 306 feet above sea-level, it is 6^
miles long ; its breadth varies between Z^ and 6^ fur-
longs ; and its depth, in many places, is 600 feet. Its
temperature varies so little throughout the year that,
not only does the lake itself never freeze, even in the
keenest frost, but the river Earn, which flows from it,
seldom, if ever, freezes till it has run a distance of at
least 5 miles. Its waters contain abundance of fine
trout, and can be fished conveniently from either Loch-
earnhead or St Fillans. Its shores and foreground
screens, to the mean breadth of about ^ mile, are
clothed with wood ; its raidground screens are a diver-
sity of waving, rolling, receding hill and mountain
intersected by ravines ; and its sky-line on the S
side soars into the broken fantastic heights of Stuc-a-
Chroin (3819 feet) and the monarch mountain of Ben
"Vorlich (3224), whilst to the N rises Sron Mor (2203).
Streamlets and torrents enter it from the ravines, and one
of them — the Burn of Ample, near Lochearnhead — ^just
before entering it, forms, in the grounds of Edinample,
a picturesque double waterfall. Ardvoirlich House,
on its southern shore, has beautiful grounds, and is the
' Darnlinvarach ' of Sir "Walter Scott's Legend of Mont-
rose ; and its one islet, Neish, near its foot, is clothed
with wood, and has curious historical associations.
Good roads go down both sides of the lake, and each
commands a pleasing series of views ; but only the
northern one is travelled by public coaches, though the
southern commands the finer prospects. The scenery,
on the whole, is more charming than imposing, more
beautiful than grand, yet compares advantageously
■with the scenery of other admired lakes, and has features
of at once picturesqueness, romance, and sublimity.
' Limited as are the dimensions of Loch Earn,' says Dr
Macculloch, ' it is exceeded in beauty by few of our lakes,
as far as it is possible for many beauties to exist in so
small a space. I ■will not say that it presents a great
number of distinct landscapes adapted for the pencil,
but such as it does possess are remarkable for their con-
sistency of character, and for a combination of sweet-
ness and simplicity with a grandeur of manner scarcely
to be expected within such narrow bounds. Its style is
that of a lake of far greater dimensions ; the hills which
bound it being lofty and bold and rugged, with a
variety of character not found in many of even far
greater magnitude and extent. It is a miniature and a
model of scenery that might well occupy ten times the
space ; yet the eye does not feel this. There is nothing
trifling or small in the details ; nothing to diminish its
grandeur of style, to tell us that we are contemplating a
reduced copy. On the contrary, there is a perpetual
contest between our impressions and our reasonings.
"We know that a few short miles comprehend the whole,
and yet we feel as if it was a landscape of many miles, a
lake to be ranked among those of the fijst order and
dimensions. "While its mountains rise in majestic sim-
plicity to the sky, terminating in those bold and various
and rocky outlines which belong to so much of the
geological line from Dunkeld to Killiecrankie— even to
Loch Katrine, the surfaces of the declivities are equally
various and bold, enriched with precipices and masses
of protruding rock, with deep hollows and ravines, and
with the courses of innumerable torrents which pour from
above, and, as they descend, become skirted with trees
till they lose themselves in the waters of the lake.
Wild woods also ascend along the surface in all that
irregularity of distribution so peculiar to these rocky
mountains, — less solid and continuous than at Loch
Lomond, less scattered and less romantic than at Loch
Katrine, but, from these very causes, aiding to confer
on Loch Earn a character entirely its own. If the
shores of the lake are not deeply marked by bays and
promontories, still they are sufficiently varied ; nor is
there one point where the hills reach the water in that
meagre and insipid manner which is the fault of many
of our lakes, and which is the case throughout the far
greater part even of Loch Katrine. Loch Earn has no
^ 459
EARN, BRIDGE OF
blank. Such as its beauty is, it is always consistent
and complete. '
The river Earn, issuing from Loch Earn at St Fillans
village, takes a general easterly course along Strathearn,
and falls into the Tay, at a point IJ mile NNE of Aber-
netliy, 1 mile W of the boundary between Perthshire
and Fife, and 6f miles SE by S of Perth. Its course
abounds in serpentine folds, wliicli contribute much to
its beauty and to its abrasive power ; and, measured
along which, it has a total length of 46^ miles — viz. , 13|
to Crielf Bridge, 24^ thence to Bridge of Earn, and 8^
thence to its moutli. It draws not only from the
numerous mountain feeders of the lake, but also from
numerous mountain streams on both flanks of the upper
part of its own proper basin, so that it always has a
considerable volume and a lively velocity, and is liable
in times of rain to swell suddenly into powerful freshets;
and it sometimes bursts or overflows its banks, particu-
larly in its lower reaches, with devastating efl'ect ou
the crops or soils of the flooded district. Its chief
tributaries on the left are the Lednock at Comrie and
the Turret at Crieff"; on the right, the Ru chill at Comrie,
the Machany at Kinkell, the Ruthven at Trinity-Gask,
and tlie May at Forteviot. The first 13 miles of its
course, from Loch Earn onward, lie through the parish
of Comrie and the parish of Monzievaird and Strowan ;
and the rest of its course, though occasionally intersect-
ing wings or districts of parishes, is mainly the boundary
line between Crieff", Monzie, Trinity-Gask, Findo-Gask,
Aberdalgie, Forteviot (detached), and Rhynd on the
N, and Muthill, Blackford, Auchterarder, Dunning,
Forteviot, Forgandenny, Dunbarny, and Abernethy on
the S. Its flow is so comparatively rapid, and so
briefly affected by the tide, as to prevent it from being
navigable, even for vessels of from 30 to 50 tons' burden,
higher than to the Bridge of Earn. Its waters contain
salmon (running up to 48 J lbs. ), perch, and pike, and
have great abundance of common trout, yellow trout,
and sea trout. Its scenery, throughout the upper
reaches onward to the vicinity of Crieff", vies with
that of Loch Earn in all the elements of natural beauty
and power, and, throughout the middle and lower
reaches onwards to its foot, is unexcelled by that of
any Lowland tract in Britain. The Highland features,
excepting varieties of detail, have already been suffi-
ciently indicated in our account of the lake, and the
Lowland ones will be described under Stratheakn. —
Ord. Sur., shs. 46, 47, 48, 1868-72.
Earn, Bridge of, a village in Dunbarny parish, SE
Perthshire, on the right bank of the Earn, with a
station upon the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee
section of the North British, 3f miles SSE of Perth.
It took its name from an ancient bridge, now super-
seded by a fine modern three -arch structure, and it
consists of two parts, old and new — the old founded in
1769, on leases of 99 years ; the new begun in 1832,
for the accommodation of visitors to the neighbouring
mineral wells at Pitcaithly, and formed on a symmet-
rical plan in a row or street of handsome houses. Nest-
ling beneath the wooded slopes of Moncreiffe Hill
(725 feet), it is a charming little village, and has a post
office, with money order, saving.s' bank, insurance, and
telegraph departments, a very commodious hotel, a
ball-room, a library, gas-works, etc. The Queen
changed horses here on 6 Sept. 1842. Pop. (1841)
119, (1861) 381, (1871) 326, (1881) 250. See Dun-
barny.—Crd Sur., sh. 48, 1868.
Eamock, an estate, with a mansion, in Hamilton
parish, Lanarkshire. The mansion, standing 2^ miles
\VSW of Hamilton, is a modern square edifice, with
very fine jileasure-grounds.
Eamock, Meikle, a village in Hamilton parish,
Lanarkshire, 2 miles SW of Hamilton. An ancient
tumulus adjoining it, thougli formerly much larger,
now measures 12 feet in diameter and 8 in height, and
has yielded several urns.
Eamside, an ancient forest in Dunbarny parish, SE
Perthsliire, and eastward thence, along the Earn and
the Tay to the eastern border of Abdie parish, around
460
EASSIE AND NEVA7
Lindores Abbey, in Fife. It is said by Sibbald to have
been 4 miles long and 3 broad, but it could not have
been less than 8 miles long, and, though taking name
from the river Earn, it extended so far beyond that
river's present conffuence with the Tay as to counten-
ance a tradition that the Earn once flowed to the base
of the hills in the NW of Fife, that the Tay closely
skirted the heights which now screen the N side of the
Carse of Gowrie, and that the two rivers did not unite
till they reached a point considerably to the E of their
present confluence. Earnside Forest was the tradi-
tionary scene of adventures of Sir William Wallace,
notably of a sanguinary conflict which he maintained
within it against the English ; and it was sometimes
called ' Black Earnside,' a name referring probably to
the dense gloom of its trees. It was long ago destroyed,
but large masses of black oak, supposed to be remains
of it, are found imbedded in the soil of various parts of
the territory which it once occupied.
Earraid, an islet of Kilfinichen parish, Argyllshire,
separated by a narrow channel from the south-western
extremity of Mull. In 1871 it had a temporary popu-
lation of 122, engaged in the construction of Dhuhear-
TACii Lighthouse.
Earsay. See Iorsa.
Easdale, an island and a village of Kilbrandon parish,
Argyllshire. The island lies 16 miles SW of Oban, off
the \V shore of Seil island, from which it is separated
by a strait only 400 feet wide at the narrowest. With a
somewhat roundish form, measuring 850 and 760 yards
in the two greatest diameters, it rises at one point to a
height of 130 feet above sea-level, but generally is very
little higher than tide-mark. It presents an unattrac-
tive appearance, but is highly interesting for its valuable
slate quarries. Commenced about 1631, these, in one
part, have been carried to a depth of 220 feet below sea-
level, being there kept dry by steam pumps and by the
accumulated debris thrown up in the way of embank-
ment ; they have long been worked with the appliances
of steam-engines and railroads ; and they belong to the
Earl of Breadalbane. In 1866 they were let to a com-
pany of workmen formed on co-operative principles,
but, favourable as were the terms of the lease, the
venture proved unprofitable, so in the following year
they were transferred to a company of slate merchants,
who have continued to work them with great vigour.
They employ about 280 men, and turn out annually
between seven and nine millions of slates, worth not
less than £14,000. The strait between Easdale and Seil
is used by the inhabitants of the two islands much in the
manner of a highway, or similarly to the manner in which
the people of Venice use their canals, the workmen especi-
ally disporting themselves on it in boats at all available
times, and regularly crossing it at meal hours ; it also
is part of the ordinary marine highway of the western
steamers between the Clyde and the N, afl'ording passen-
gers an opportunity of seeing the curious operations in
the quarries ; and it likewise serves as a good harbour,
and has been entered in the course of a year by as many
as 400 sailing vessels, most of them sloops, and many of
them, even to the number of more than twelve at a
time, waiting their turn to be cargoed with slates.
The village stands on both sides of the strait, or is
]iartly Easdale proper on Easdale island, and partly
EUanabriech on Seil ; consists chiefly of snug, slated,
one-story houses ; and has a post office under Oban,
with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph depart-
ments, a new pier (1873), a public school, a youn»
men's improvement association, a library, and occasional
lectures on popular and scientific subjects. Queen
Victoria, when on her way to Ardverikie in 1847, had
a brilliant reception at Easdale. Pop. of island (1841)
531, (1861) 449, (1871) 504, (1881) 490 ; of village,
(1861) 772, (1871) 855, (1881) 805. See p. 76 of
Trans. Hiijhl. and Ag. Soc. for 1878.
Easnambroc, a waterfall of 30 feet in Kiltarlity
pari.sli, Inverness-shire, on the river Glass, 1 mile above
Fasnakyle.
Eassie and Nevay, a united parish on the W border
EAST BARNS
of Forfarshire, containing, towards its NE comer, Eassie
station on the Scottish Midland section of the Caledonian,
5| miles ENE of the post-town IMeigle, and 2^ W by N
of Glamis, by road ; whilst by rail it is 2^ miles SW of
Glamis station, 4| NE of Alyth Junction, and 24| NE
of Perth. United before the middle of the 17th century,
the ancient parishes of Eassie and Nevay were nearly
equal to each other in extent — Eassie on the N, Nevay
on the S. The whole is bounded N by Airlie, E and
SE by Glamis, S and SW by Newtyle, and W by Meigle
in Perthshire. Its greatest length, from NNE to SSW,
is 4| miles ; its breadth varies between 1 J and 2§ miles ;
and its area is 5061^ acres, of which 8 are water. Dean
Water creeps 2f miles west-by-southward along all the
northern border, with scarcely perceptible current, yet
sometimes in winter, bursting its strong embankments,
floods all the neighbouring fields. Eassie Burn rises in
the N of Auchterhouse parish, and, running 6^ miles
north-by-westward through Dexoon Glen in Glamis
parish, and across the north-eastern extremity of Eassie
past Eassie station, falls into Dean Water at a point 2|
miles WNW of Glamis village. The level northern and
north-western portion is part of Stkathmore, and sinks
along Dean Water to 1 60 feet above the sea ; south-
wards the surface rises to the Sidlaws, attaining 371 feet
near Murleywell, 621 at Ingliston Hill, and 947 on the
south-eastern border, whilst Kinpurney Hill (1134 feet)
culminates just within Newtyle. The rocks of the i;p-
lands are partly eruptive, partly Devonian ; that of the
Strathraore division is Old Red sandstone ; and here the
soil is mainly a soft sandy loam of high fertility, as
there it is partly moorish, partly a thin black mould.
Nearly half of the entire area is in tillage ; about 240
acres are under wood ; and the rest is either pastoral or
waste. A circular mound, with traces of an ancient
deep, wide moat, is occupied by Castle-Nairne farm-
house ; and a large sculptured stone, similar to the
famous sculptured stones of Meigle and Aberlemno, is
near the old church of Eassie. All Nevay belongs to the
Earl of Wharnclitfe, the rest of the parish being divided
among 4 proprietors. This parish is in the presbytery
of Meigle and synod of Angus and Mearns ; the living is
worth £259. Two churches, the one in Eassie, the other
in Nevay, were formerly in use alternately ; and both
of them still stand as ruins, with burial grounds at
each, beyond the station. The present church, 2 miles
SW of Eassie station, was built in 1833, and contains 400
sittings. A public school, with accommodation for 127
children, had (1880) an average attendance of 65, and a
grant of £55, 3s. lid. Valuation (1882) £6974, lis.,
plus £2026 for railway. Pop. (1801) 638, (1831) 654,
(1861) 748, (1871) 586, (1881) 561.— Ord. Sur., sh.
56, 1870.
East Bams, etc. See Barns, East, etc.
Eastend, an estate, with a modern mansion, in Car-
michael parish, Lanarkshire, 2 miles WSW of Thanker-
ton. Its owner, Maurice Thomson-Carmichael, Esq. (b.
1841 ; sue. 1875), holds 2125 acres in the shire, valued
at £2058 per annum.
Easterfield. See Inverkeithing.
Easterhill, an estate, with a mansion, in Shettleston
parish, Lanarkshire, on the right bank of the Clyde, 5
furlongs SSW of Tollcross.
Easterhouse, a collier village in Old Monkland parish,
Lanarkshire, with a station on the Glasgow and Coat-
bridge branch of the North British, 3^ miles W of Coat-
bridge.
Easterhouse, Dumbartonshire. Sec Roseneath.
Easterskene, an estate, with a mansion, in Skene
parish, SE Aberdeenshire. The mansion stands near
the NE shore of Loch Skene, 9 miles W by N of Aber-
deen, and S by E of Kintore station. Built about 1832,
it is a large edifice in the Tudor style, with fine grounds,
and commands an extensive prospect to the frontier
Grampians. Its owner, William M'Comliie, Esq. (b.
1802 ; sue. 1824), holds 2179 acres in the shire, valued
at £1052 per annum. See Lynturk.
Eastertown, a hill on the S border of Fyvie parish,
Aberdeenshire, projecting from the Bethcluie range in
EATHACE OR EIGHEACH, LOCH
Meldmm, and finely diversifying the upper vale of
Ythan Water.
Eastertyre, an estate, with a mansion, in Logierait
parish, Perthshire, near the left bank of the Tay, 2^
miles WNW of Ballinluig Junction.
Eastfield. See Rtitherglen.
East-Grange Station. See Culross.
East-Haven, a fishing village in Panbride parish, For-
farshire, with a station on the Dundee and Arbroath
railway, 4^ miles SW of Arbroath. It sends largo
quantities of live lobsters to the London market, and of
white fish to Dundee, Forfar, and other towns.
Eastmuir. See Shettleston.
Eastwood, a mansion in Caputh parish, Perthshire,
in the south-eastern vicinity of Dunkeld. Its groimds
are very beautiful, commanding at one point a splendid
view of the town, the bridge, the cathedral, and the
environs of Dunkeld. In 1879 Eastwood was rented by
Mr J. E. Millais, R.A.
Eastwood or PoUok, a parish in the E of Renfrew-
shire. It contains the post-town of Pollokshaws (3
miles SSW of GlasgoAv) and the village of Thornlie-
BANK, with the stations of Pollokshaws, Kennishead,
Thornliebank, and Gitihock. It is bounded N by Govan,
E by Cathcart, S by Jlearns, SW by Neilston, and W
by Abbey-Paisley ; and at its north-eastern corner ap-
proaches very near to the southern suburbs of Glasgow.
Its utmost length, from NW to SE, is 4§ miles ; its
greatest breadth is 3f miles ; and its area is 5690 acres,
of which 93f are water. The White Cart winds 4
miles west-north-westward through the interior and
along the boundary with Abbey-Paisley ; Levern Water
runs 2^ miles, partly along that boundary, partly
across a narrow western wing ; and Auldhouse Burn,
another of the White Cart's tributaries, comes in from
Mearns, and traverses the interior, itself receiving
Brock Burn, which rises close to the south-eastern bor-
der. The surface is charmingly diversified with shallow
vale and gentle eminence, westward declining to 50 feet
above sea-level, whilst rising to 167 near Knowehead,
170 near Haggbowse, 221 near Giff'nock station, and 302
at Upper Darnley. The rocks are chiefly of the Car-
boniferous formation, and include valuable beds of sand-
stone, limestone, ironstone, and coal, all of which have
been worked. The Gifi"nock sandstone has a fine grain
and a whitish hue ; the Eastwood pavement stone is a
fine foliated limestone ; and the Cowglen coal is of good
quality, and occurs in numerous seams, none of them
more than 2^ feet thick. The soil on the banks of the
streams is very fertile alluvium ; on the higher grounds,
is generally a thin earth on a till bottom ; and else-
where, is of various quality. Rather less than half the
entire area is in tillage, as much or more is pasture,
and some 350 acres are under wood. Extensive fac-
tories are at Pollokshaws, Thornliebank, and Green-
bank ; and the whole parish teams with industry, as if
it were immediately suburban to Glasgow. Robert
Wodrow (1679-1734), author of a well-kno^\-n History of
the Church of Scotland; Matthew Crawfurd (d. 1700),
author of a voluminous unpublished work of the same
title; and Stevenson Macgill, D.D. (1765-1840), pro-
fessor of divinity in the University of Glasgow, were
ministers of Eastwood ; whilst Walter Stewart of Par-
dovan, author of the Pardovan Collections, died in the
parish, and was interred in the Pollok burial-aisle.
Darnley and Pollok, both separately noticed, are estates
with much interest attaching to them ; and Stirling-
Maxwell is the chief projjrietor, 12 others holding each
an annual value of £500 and upwards, 42 of between £100
and £500, 73 of from £50 to £100, and 89 of from £20
to £50. In the presbytery of Paisley and synod of Glas-
gow and Ayr, this parish is ecclesiastically divided into
Eastwood proper and Pollokshaws, the former a living
worth £602. The various places of worslnp and the
schools arc noticed under Pollokshaws and Thornlie-
bank. Valuation (1860) £32,503, (1882) £64,598, Is. 5d.
Pop. (1801) 3375, (1831) 6854, (1861) 11,314, (1871)
13,098, (1881) 13,915.— fj-rf. Sur., sh, 30, 1866.
Eathack or Eigheach, Loch. See Gavir.
461
EATHIE
Eathie, a picturesque reach of coast, traversed by a
romantic burn — a noble Old Red sandstone ravine — in
the NE of the Black Isle district of Ross and Croniartj'.
Its liassic deposit, amazingly rich in fossil organisms,
possesses high interest both in itself and in connection
with those early researches of Hugh Miller, which he de-
scribes in chap. viii. of My Schools mid Schoolmasters.
Ebrie, a burn of N Aberdeenshire, rising in New
Deer parish, I4 mile SE of New Deer village, and run-
ning 8^ miles southward to the Ythan, at a point 2^
miles WNW of Ellon. It is followed, over the gi-eater
part of its course, by the Buchan and Formartine sec-
tion of the Great North of Scotland ; has Arnage House
and Arnage station on its left bank ; gives the name of
Invorebrie to a detached section of Methlick parish con-
tiguous to its mouth ; and, in times of heavy rain,
becomes a voluminous torrent. — Orel. Sitr., sh. 87, 1876.
Ecclefechan (Celt. 'Church of Fechan '*), the birth-
place of Thomas Carlyle, is a village in Hoddam parish,
Annandale, Dumfriesshire. It stands 171 feet above
sea-level, f mile ESE of Ecclefechan station, on the
main line of the Caledonian, this being 3;^ miles AVNW
of Kirtlebidge, 20 NW of Carlisle, 5| SE by S of
Lockerbie, 81 S by W of Edinburgh, and 81i SE by S
of Glasgow. At it are a post office, with money order,
savings' bank, insurance, and railway telegraph depart-
ments, a branch of the Royal Bank, gas-works, 3 hotels, a
Gothic Free church (1878 ; 280 sittings), a Gothic U.P.
church (1865 ; 600 sittings), and a public school ; and
fairs are held here on the Tuesday after 11 June and the
Tuesday after 20 October. ' The village of Ecclefechan '
(we quote from the Scotsman of 11 Feb. 1881), ' situated
midway between Lockerbie and the Solway Firth, has
been generally identified as the " Entepfuhl " of Carlyle's
Sartor Eesartus. There it is, little altered from what it
was when Carlyle knew it in his early days, lying in a
hollow, surrounded by wooded slopes, with its little
" Kuhbach " still gushing kindly by — where not covered
over — to join Mein Water at the foot of the town, bef'^ve
the Mein loses itself in Annan Water, 1^ mile lower
down the valley. There are the beechrows ; and here,
by the side of the road, is the field where the annual
cattle fair is held — " undoubtedly the grand summary
of Entepfuhl child's culture, whither, assembling from
all the four winds, come the elements of an unspeakable
hurly-burly." Built along the Glasgow and Carlisle
highway, the stage-coach in the old days wended its
way night and morning through Ecclefechan ; but the
cheery horn of the guard is no more heard, and, the
railway having passed it by, the village is now probably
the scene of less bustle than it was eighty years since.
The weaving industry, which at a time less remote, gave
employment to not a few men and women, has now
almost deserted it, and the quietude of the place has beeu
further increased by a diversion of the turnpike road to
the higher ground along the western boundary, in order
to avoid the hollow in which Ecclefechan is situated.
The inhabitants are now, for the most part, people
engaged in agricultural pursuits, and sliopkeepers and
others who minister to their wants. The village has a
particularly neat and tidy appearance, from the fact
that nearly all the houses not faced with the red sand-
stone of the district are regularly whitewashed about
the time of the fair. Most of the older cottages and
other tenements are said to have been erected by the
father and imcle of Carlyle, who, it is known, followed
the trade of mason, and who are still well remembered
in Ecclefechan. The house in which Thomas Carlyle
was born stands on the W side of the main street near
the S end of tlie village. It is a plain two-story build-
ing, whitewashed like so many of its neighbours, and
may be said to be divided into two parts by a lai'gc
keyed arcli, which gives access to a court and some
gardens behind. At present it is occupied by two separate
families, who enter their respective dwellings by door-
* Fechin of Fore, probably, the Vi^'canuB of the Scottish Calen-
dar, who, according' to Skene, was an Frisli ancliorite of tlie latter
half of tlie Cth century, about which period St Kcntifcrn first fixed
his see at Hoodam.
462
ECCLES
ways on either side of the arch. It was in the northern-
most division, in a small chamber immediately over
the archway, that Carlyle first saw the light, on 4 Dec.
1795. The room, which is reached from the ground
floor by a well-worn staircase of red sandstone flags, is
of small proportions — 4 or 5 feet wide by 8 or 9 in
length — with a bed-place formed in the old style by
making a recess in the wall.* Closely adjoining this
interesting tenement is a lane, known as Carlyle's Close,
in which stood a house afterwards tenanted by Carlyle's
father, and in which all the other children were born.
Here Carlyle was brought up. This house in the lapse
of time has undergone considerable changes ; and the
Philistinism of Ecclefechan has at last transformed it
into the village shambles. The churchyard lies on the
W side of the village, 50 yards or thereby along the
beech-fringed road which leads to Hoddam Castle. It
is only about half an acre in extent ; and in the centre
of it many years ago stood the ancient church of St
Fechan, of which not a stone remains. Close to the
churchyard on the E side is a handsome Gothic church
in red sandstone, cruciform in shape, with a square
clock-tower, which is the most prominent object in the
village. This belongs to the U.P. congi-egation, and
took the place of the old Secession church, in which, it
is understood, Carlyle was baptized by the Rev. Mr
Johnston, who afterwards taught the youthful genius
Latin. By the side of the churchyard is a long cottage-
like building in a fair state of repair — the old parish
school, where Carlyle learnt "those earliest tools of
complicacy which a man of letters gets to handle — his
class-books." This old school-house, said to have been
built with the stones of the ruined church, ceased some
five and twenty years ago to be used by the village
schoolmaster, who removed to a more commodious
building within a stone's cast, which since the passing
of the Education Act has been enlarged and dignified
with a clock-tower. The old school-house is now a
casual poorhouse and soup-kitchen.' In the churchyard
itself are headstones to Archibald Arnott, Esq. (1772-
1855), Napoleon's medical attendant at St Helena ; to
Robert Peal (1692-1749), said to be the great-grand-
father of Sir Robert Peel ; and, in the W corner, to
James Carlyle (1758-1832) and Margaret Aitken (1771-
1853), his second wife, who 'brought him nine chil-
dren, whereof four sons and three daughters survived,
gratefully reverent of such a father and mother.' Two
of those sons have since been laid beside her — Dr John
Aitken Carlyle (1801-79), the translator of Dante, and
Thomas Carlyle himself, whose funeral on 10 Feb.
1881, a cloudy, sleaty day, was attended by Prof. Tyn-
dall, Mr J. A. Fronde, Mr J. M. Lecky, etc. No stone
as yet marks his grave, but the churchyard wall was
rebuilt and walks were laid out in the winter of 1881-82.
Pop. of village (1841) 768, (1861) 884, (1871) 846, (1881)
769. — Orel. Sur., sh. 10, 1864. See also Annan, Kirk-
caldy, Haddington, and Craigenputtoch.
Eccles, a Border village and parish of Berwickshire.
The village stands, 244 feet above sea-level, in the SW
of the parish, 2 miles NNW of the nearest reach of the
Tweed, 5i SE of Greenlaw station, 5| NNE of Kelso,
and 6^ WNW of Coldstream, under which it has a post
office. Tliough now consisting of but one small street,
it represents an ancient town of no little consequence,
the scat ofSt Mary's Cistercian nunnery, founded in 1155.
Town and nunnery were burned in Hertford's raid of
1545 ; and nothing remains now of the latter save two
vaulted cells and a fragment of wall near the churchyard.
The parish, containing also the villages of Birguam
and Leitholm, is bounded N by Fogo, E by Swinton
and Coklstream, S by Northumberland and by Sprou-
ston in Roxburghshire, SW by Ednam and Stichill
in Roxburghshire, W by Hume, and NW by Green-
law. Its length, from ENE to WSW, varies Ijetween
2g and 6^ miles ; its utmost breadth is 5i miles ; and
* So the Scotsman, but, according to Carlyle's brother, who
still resides in the neighbourhood, it was not in this room, but in
that at the tup of the stair, on the right band side, that the Sage
of Chelsea was born.
ECCLESCBAIG
its area is 12,488| acres, of which 70f are water. The
Tweed, here a glorious fishing river, sweeps 3 miles east-
north-eastward along all the Sproustou and Northum-
berland border ; Leet Water, ditchlike but troutful,
flows 2 miles south-south-westward along the boundary
with Coldstream ; and, through the northern interior,
Lambden Burn, after tracing 2 j miles of the Greenlaw
border, meanders 4J miles eastward to the Leet, past
Leitholm. A partially drained bog near Birghain is
much frequented by wild ducks. The surface sinks
along tlie Tweed to 80 feet above sea-level, thence rising
in gentle parallel ridges to 230 feet near AVester Whit-
rig, 272 at Bartle Hill, 296 near Harlaw, 338 at Eccles
Hdl, and 353 near Hardacres. The chief rocks are a
sandstone resting on clay-stone porphyry, and quarried
for masonry ; a sandstone covered by amygdaloid, con-
taining green steatite and calcareous spar ; a dark slat}^
marly sandstone, containing 25 per cent, of carbonate
of lime ; a magnesian limestone, containing red horn-
stone and crystals of calcareous spar ; and red massy
gypsum, in thin beds, containing feruginous crystals.
The soil is light on the bank of the Tweed ; in the
middle and northern districts, is chiefly clay and loam.
All the land, with slight exception, is arable and very
productive, having fine embellishments of enclosures and
plantations, and presenting a rich and charming appear-
ance. Karnes was the birthplace of the distinguished
judge and philosopher, Henry Home (1696-1782), who
from it assumed the title of Lord Karnes, and here was
visited in 1759 by Benjamin Franklin. Leitholm Tower,
a ruined Border peel, stands beside Lambden Burn ;
and at Deadriggs is the sculptured stone of Crosshalls.
Eccles House is the property of James Lewis Greig, Esq.
(b. 1868 ; sue. 1869), who o\vns 363 acres in the shire,
valued at £871 per annum. Other mansions, most of
them noticed separately, are Anton's Hill, Belchester
House, Bughtrig, Kames, Mersington House, Purves
Hall, Spring Hill, and Stoneridge ; and 17 proprietors
hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 5 of
between £100 and £500, 1 of from £50 to £100, and 10
of from £20 to £50. Eccles is in the presbytery of
Dunse and synod of Merse and Teviotdale ; the living
is worth £348. The parish church, at the village, with
handsome spire and 1000 sittings, was built in 1774,
successor to its ancient predecessor which was dedicated
first to St Cuthbert, afterwards to St Andrew. There
are also a Free church (280 sittings) of Eccles and a
U.P. church (300) of Leitholm ; whilst the three public
schools of Birgham, Eccles, and Leitholm, with respec-
tive accommodation for 88, 114, and 119 children, had
(1880) an average attendance of 23, 70, and 117, and
grants of £18, 18s., £57, 3s. , and £103, 15s. Valuation
(18G4) £22,846, 4s. 2d., (1882) £25,265, 17s. lOd. Pop.
<1801) 1682, (1831) 1885, (1861) 1861, (1871) 1780, (1881)
1546.— Orel. Sur., shs. 25, 26, 1865-64.
Ecclescraig. See St Cyrus.
Ecclesfechan. See Ecclefechan.
Ecclesiamagirdle (Celt. ' church of St Grizel '), a de-
tached portion of Dron parish, SE Perthshire, lying
westward of the main body, and parted therefrom by a
strip of Dunbamy, 1 furlong broad at the narrowest.
With utmost length and breadth of If and f mile, it
has an area of 631§ acres ; contains Gleneakx House
and a fragment of an ancient chapel ; and is all so over-
shadowed by the Ochils, that, according to an old-world
rhyme —
' The lasses o' Exmagirdle
May very weel be dun ;
For frae Slicliaelmas till Whitsunday
They never see the sun.'
Ecclesmachan (Celt, 'church of St Machan'), a village
and a parish of Linlithgowshire. The village stands 2^
miles N by Wof Uphall station, 3 WSW of Wiuchburgh
station, and 4| ESE of Linlithgow.
The parish consists of two portions, separated by a
strip of Linlithgow parish, 1 mile broad at the narrowest.
The north-eastern of the two, containing the village at
its SW corner, is bounded N by Aburcorn and the Ald-
cathie section of Dalmeiiy, E by Kirkliston, S by Uphall,
ECHT
and SW and W by Linlithgow ; and, with an utmost
length and breadth of 1| and 1^ mUe, has an area of
1107 acres. The south-western portion, bounded N by
Linlithgow, E by Uphall, S by Livingston, and SW and
W by Bathgate, is the larger, measuring 3 miles from E
to W by 1| mile from N to S, and having an area of
1540| acres. The surface rises gently from 300 to 600
feet above sea-level in the north-eastern, from 480 to
720 in the south-western, division ; and the latter is
drained by Brox, the former by Niddry, Burn. The
rocks are partly eruptive, partly carboniferous. Sand-
stone is plentiful ; and great beds of indurated clay, in-
terspersed here and there with seams of clay-ironstone,
occur in conjunction with trap ; whilst coal has been
mined in the N. Bullion Well, a mineral spring that
issues from the trap rocks of Tor Hill, near the manse,
and is weakly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen,
was formerly held in some medicinal rejjute. With the
exception of 130 acres under wood, the whole almost of
the land is in tillage. The eminent surgeon, Robert
Listen (1794-1847) was a native, his father being parish
minister ; so too, perhaps, was the poet William Hamil-
ton of Baugour (1704-54), who is best remembered by
his exquisite Braes of Yarrow. The property is mostly
divided among three. Ecclesmachan is in the presby-
tery of Linlithgow and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ;
the living is worth £393. The church, which early in
last century was mainly rebuilt, contains 153 sittings ;
and a public school, with accommodation for 115 chil-
dren, had (1880) an average attendance of 68, and a
grant of £61, 9s. Valuation (1882) £3361, 16s. 5d.
Pop. (1801) 303, (1831) 299, nS61) 309, (1871) 329,
(1881) 278.— Orel Stcr., sh. 32, 1857.
Echline. See Dalmeny.
Echt, a village and a parish of SE Aberdeenshire.
The vUlage, Kirkton of Echt, stands 332 feet above sea-
level, 6 miles NNW of Park station and 12 W of Aber-
deen, under which it has a post office. At it are an inn
and a branch of the Aberdeen Town and County Bank :
and cattle and horse fairs are held here on the first
Monday of January, February, April, June, August,
September, and December, and the last Tuesday of Sep-
tember 0. s. ; horse fairs on the first Monday of March
and the Monday in July before St Sairs, and hiring fairs
on the first Monday of March, the second Monday of
May, and the second Tuesday of November.
The parish is bounded N by Cluny, NE by Skene, E
by Skene and Peterculter, S by Drumoak and Banchory-
Ternan in Kincardineshire, and W and NW by Midmar.
Its utmost length, from N to S, is 5f miles ; its breadth,
from E to W, varies between 3| and 5| mUes ; and its
area is 12,003§ acres, of which 55| are water. Kin-
nernie Burn runs 4f miles east-by-southward to Loch
Skene, along all the northern and north-eastern bor-
der ; Loch Skene (7x5 furl. ) itself and Leuchar Burn,
issuing from it, form part of the eastern boundary ; and
the Burn of Echt, coming in from Midmar, runs across
the south-western district to Gormack Bm-n, which
traces part of the southern boundary. In the furthest E
the surface declines to 252 feet above sea-level along
Leuchar Burn, along Gormack Burn to 190, and rises
thence to 478 at Knockquharn, 410 at Duuecht, 800
at conical Barmekin Hill, 1179 at Meikle Tap, and
1291 at Greymore, the two last being summits of the
Hill of Fare. The Howe of Echt is a valley along the
course of the Burn of Echt, overhung on the SW by the
Hill of Fare, and has a very mild and salubrious climate.
The principal rocks are reddish granite and gneiss ; and
the soil is in some parts mossy, in others is light and
sandy, and on the best lands is chiefly a light loam in-
cumbent on clay. About 8000 acres are in cultivation ;
fully 3000 are uiuler wood (nearly all of it planted during
the present century) ; and the rest of the land is pastoral
or waste. Cairns and ancient Caledonian standing stones
make up the antiquities, with theceleliratcd fortress on the
Barmekin, which has been separately noticed, as likewise
has the battle of Corrichie. Dunecht is the only man-
sion ; and the Earl of Crawford is much the largest pro-
itrietor, 1 other holding an annual value of more, and
463
ECK
EDAY
13 of less, than £100. Eclit is in the presbytery of
Kincardine O'Neil and synod of Aberdeen ; the living
is worth £2"20. The parish church, at the village, was
built in 1804, and contains 600 sittings ; a Free church
stands ^ mile to the E. Three public schools — Cullerley,
Kirkton, and Waterton — with respective accommodation
for 70, 207, and 106 children, had (ISSO) an average at-
tendance of 42, 120, and 66, and grants of £37, 15s.,
£102, 18s. , and £55, lis. Yaluation\l843) £5690, (1881)
£7486, 9s. 8d. Pop. (1801)972, (1831)1030,(1861)1287,
(1871) 1259, (1881) 1296.— Orel. Sur., sh. 76, 1874.
Eck, a long narrow loch of singular beauty in Strachur
and Dunoon parishes, Cowal, Argyllshire. Lying 67 feet
above sea-level, it extends 6J miles from N by W to S
by E ; otf Whistlefield inn has a maximum width of 3
furlongs ; and receives the Cur at its head, whilst sending
off the Eachaig at its foot. The western shore is flanked
by Ben Bheag (2029 feet), Ben More (2433), and Clach
Ben (2109) ; its eastern, by Ben Dubhain (2090), Cruach
a Bhuie (2084), and Ben Ruadh (2175) ; and the latter
takes up the road from Dunoon and Holy Loch to
Strachur and St Catherine's ferry on Loch Fj'ne.
A steamboat, launched on its waters so long ago as
1830, M-as shortlj' discontinued ; but now once more,
since 1877, the yacht-like screw Fairy Queen plies back-
wards and forwards in connection with the circular
Loch Eck route to Inverary. The loch contains abun-
dance of salmon-trout, the ' gwyniad ' or fresh-water
herring, and a remarkably translucent fish, 4 or 5 inches
long, provincially called the ' goldie. ' A round hillock,
near its head, bears the name of Tom-a-Chorachasich
(' the hill of Chorachasich'), and is traditionally said to
mark the grave of a gigantic Scandinavian prince, who
here was slain 'ip battle with the natives. — Ord. Sur.,
shs. 37, 29, 1876-73.
Eckford, a village and a parish of lower Teviotdale,
Roxburghshire. The village stands, 200 feet above sea-
level, near the right bank of the Teviot, 1^ mile SE of
Kirkbank station, 6;^ miles NE of Jedburgh, and 5|
miles S by W of the post-town Kelso.
The parish, containing also the hamlets of Kirk-
bank, Cessford, and Caverton, is bounded NW by
Roxburgh, N by Kelso and Sprouston, E by Linton and
Morebattle, SE by Hounam, S and SW by Jedburgh,
and W by Crailing. Its greatest length, from N by E to
S by W, is 6^ miles ; its utmost breadth, from E to W, is
4§ miles ; and its area is 10,097^ acres, of which 99f are
water. The Teviot, entering from Crailing, winds 2J
miles northward through the western interior ; and its
affluent Kale Water, in many ' a loop and link, ' runs 4^
miles west-north-westward, nearh' through the centre
of the parish. To the S of the village is a small loch
(2 by I furl.), containing tench, perch, trout, and
splendid eels. The surface sinks in the NW along the
Teviot to 180 feet above sea-level, thence rising south-
ward and eastward to 260 near Kirkbank station, 606 at
Bowmont Forest, 481 at Caverton Hill, 651 at Wooden
Hill, 754 at Bank Hill, and 800 in the furthest S—
heights that command extensive views of the beautiful
country around. Trap and sandstone are the predomi-
nant rocks, and have been worked in several quarries.
The soil, on the low grounds in the W, is a lightish
mould ; on the higher grounds towards the S, is
clayey ; and elsewhere is extremely various, sometimes
even on tfie same farm, but generally fertile. About
three-fourths of the entire area are in cultivation ; 800
acres are under wood ; and the rest of the land is pas-
toral or waste. The Kale is liere si)anncd l)y two stone
bridges ; the Teviot by a suspension-bridge, 180 feet long
and 16 wide. The ruins of Cessford Castle are the
chief antiquity ; but old peel-liouscs stood at Eckford,
Ormiston, Wooden Hill, and the I\Ioss ; wliilst several
stone coffins, a Roman urn, and a Roman coin have
been found. Hauglihead estate lielonged, in the reign
of Charles IL, to that zealous Covenanter, Hobbie or
Henry Hall, and was the place where Richard Cameron
received his licence to preach the gospel. A deep ravine
«n the eastern part of the cour.se of Kale Water was the
scene of frequent assemblies of the per.'^ccuted for wor-
464
ship ; and several artificial caves, a little farther down,
were used by them as retreats from danger. Sir William
Bennet, the intimate friend of the poets Thomson and
Ramsay, was born at Marlefield, and spent the greater
part of his life in the parish. By some he has been
deemed the prototype of Ramsay's 'Sir William Worthy ;*
and a sequestered spot, within a short distance of Marie-
field, traversed by a runnel flowing to the Kale, has been
falsely claimed for the genuine ' Habbie'.s Hom'e. ' Saw-
mills are at Bowmont Forest and Teviotfoot. Kirk-
bank is the only mansion ; and most of the property
is divided between the Dukes of Buccleuch and Rox-
burghe, 3 lesser landowners holding each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 2 of between £100 and
£500, and 1 from £50 to £100. Eckford is in the presby-
tery of Jedburgh and synod of Mer.se and Teviotdale ;
the living is worth £353. The church, erected in 1662,
retains its old iron jougs, and contains 300 sittings.
Two public-schools, Caverton Mill and Eckford, with
respective accommodation for 93 and 100 children, had
(1880) an average attendance of 56 and 64, and
grants of £32, 8s. and £52, 5s. "Valuation (1864)
£10,751, 4s. lid., (1882) £13,735, 15s. 3d. Pop. (1801)
973, (1831) 1148, (1861) 957, (1871) 931, (1881) 912.—
Ord. Sur., shs. 25, 17, 1865-67.
Eday, an island and a parish in the North Isles district
of Orkney. The island, at its southern extremity, lies
3^ miles N by E of Shapinshay, 4f WNW of Stronsay,
6 E of Rousay, and 13^ NNE of Kirkwall ; and extends
7^ miles in a direction nearly due N, to within 1^ mile AV
of Sauday, and 2^ miles E by S of Westray. It contracts,
in the form of an isthmus at the middle, from an ex-
treme width of 3 miles in the S and of 2 in the N ; forms
the headlands of Warness in the extreme S, Venness in
the SE, Fersness at the north-western extremity of its
southern division, and Red Head, a high promontory of
red granite, in the extreme N ; and lias two excellent
hai-bours, Fersness Bay, immediately N of Fersness
Head, and Calf Sound, a narrow strait dividing it ia
the extreme NE from Calf island. The interior, which
contains several small fresh-water lakes, rises to a
moderate elevation in a ridge extending almost from
end to end ; abounds in an excellent kind of sandstone,
which is quarried, and has been much used for building
in Kirkwall, and even exported to London ; comprises
some fertile land to the E and S, with soils variously of
sand, gravel, loam, and clay, but is mostly a deep heath-
covereu peat moss, a plentiful store of fuel for the
northern Orkneys. By the trustees of the late Mr
Samuel Laing the estate of Carrick, already noticed,
was sold to the late Robert James Hebden, Esq., who
introduced sheep-farming on a large scale into Eday
with much success, his flock being composed of Cheviots,
which thrive well on the island. He further improved
a large extent of land around his residence in the NE
part of the island, and built a commodious farm-steading,
with water-driven machinery. His son and successor,
Harry Carwardino Hebden, Esq. (b. 1841 ; sue. 1877),
holds 7500 acres, valued at £1351 per annum. The
antiquities of Eday comprise a number of tumuli, re-
mains of several Picts' houses, and an ancient standing
stone 16 feet in height. There is a post oflice of Etiay
under Kirkwall ; a small inn stands at Calf Sound ;
and two public schools. North and South Eday, with
respective accommodation for 75 and 82 children, liad
(1880) an average attendance of 49 and 43, and grants of
£50, 17s. 6d. and £39, 4s. 6d. Pop. (1861) 897, (1871)
822, (1881)720.
The parish comprehends also the island of Pharay,
with its holms, protecting the harbour of Fersness ;
the islet of Red Holm, lying to the N of Pharay ; the
Calf of Eday island, flanking the outer side of Calf
Sound ; and the islets of I^ittlo Green Holm and Meikle
nreen Holm, lying to the SW of Eday — all, except
I'liaray, uninhabited and jiastoral. Ecclesiastically it
is united to Stron.say, forming one charge with that
parish. There are in it an Established Church (1816),
.served by a missionary of the royal bounty; a U. P.
Church (1831) ; and a new Baptist chapel (1881).
EDDEBTON
Valuation (1881) £1654, 7s. Pop. (1801) 718, (1831)
961, (1861) 979, (1871) 905, (1881) 802.
Edderton, a parish of NE Rcss-shire, containing
Balulaiu distillery and Edderton .station on the High-
land railway near the S shore of Dornoch Firth, 5^ miles
WNW of Tain, and there havin_^ a post and rail-
way telegraph office. It is bonnded N by Dornoch
Firth, E by Tain, SE by Logie-Easter, S by Kilmuir-
Easter and Rosskeen, and W by Kincardine. Its
utmost length, from E to W, is 8| miles ; and its
breadth, from N to S, varies between 4| and 5| miles.
The shore-line, closely followed for SJ miles by the
Highland railway, is everywhere sandy, except
where Struie Hill descends to the water's edge, and
there it is fringed with rocks. Cambuscurrie Bay,
where a Danish Heet is said to have once cast anchor,
is now not more than a fathom deep at high waten- ; but
Ardmore has a tolerable harbour. Four rivulets — Edder-
ton Burn, Allt iluidli a Bhlair, Easter Fearn Burn,
and Wester Fearn Burn — drain the interior to the firth,
and, though of small volume in dry weather, are easily
swollen by heavy rains, and then are very impetu-
ous. To the W lies triangular Loch Muidh a Bhlair
(2| X 15 furl. ). From the low narrow terrace that naarks
the old sea-margin of the firth, the surface rises inland
to 1000 feet at Edderton Hill, 1116 at Cnoc an t-Sa-
bhail, 794 at Cnoc Al nan Gamhainn, 1082 and 1218 at
Struie Hill, 1274 at Cnoc an Liath-bhaid, 1566 at Beinn
Clach an Fheadain, 1792 at Cnoc Muidh a' Bhlair, 1763
at Beinn nan Oighreagan, 682 at Cnoc Bad-a-bhacaidh,
728 at Carr Dubh, and 1845 at Cnoc Leathado na Sior-
ramachd, the first and last of which summits mark the
eastern and western limits of the parish. The leading
formation is Old Red sandstone, mixed a good deal
\vith granite, gneiss, and schistose limestone. The soil
along the coast is very light, and mostly rests on a sandy
bottom ; inland it may be said to range in a regular
series upward of gravel, deep alluvial loam, poor sand,
and a mixture of gravel, moss, and clay. Feakn Abbey,
rebuilt in 1338 within the parish to which it now gives
name, was originally founded about 1227 in the western
extremity of Edderton, and has bequeathed its name to
several localities. Scandinavian round towers of the kind
called ' duns,' that formerly were numerous on the hills,
have all been mainly or entirely destroyed ; but two
sculptured stones stand near the old church, the one in
the graveyard, the other behind the old school-house.
(See Cakkyblair. ) Edderton is in the presbytery of
Tain and synod of Ross ; the living is worth about £331.
The present parish church, erected in 1842, is a handsome
edifice, containing 700 sittings. The old parish church
of 1743 was soon after the Disruption taken possession
of by the adherents of the Free Church. A public
school, with accommodation for 150 children, had (1880)
an average attendance of 79, and a grant of £78, lis.
Valuation (1881) £4661, 13s., of which £3266, 5s. was
held by Sir Charles Ross of Balnagowan. Pop. (1801)
899, (1831) 1023, (1861) 836, (1871) 860, (1881) 789.—
—Ord. Snr., shs. 93, 94, 1881-78.
Eddleston ('Eadulf's town'), a village and a parish
of N Peeblesshire. A neat little place, founded about
1785, the village stands, 680 feet above sea-level, on
the left bank of Eddleston Water, a bridge over which
leads to Eddleston station on the North British railway,
4i miles N by W of Peebles and 23| S of Edinburgh ;
at it are a i)ost office, with railway telegraph, the parish
church, and a public scliool.
The parish is bounded N and NE by Penicuik and
Temple in Midlothian, E by Innerleithen, S by Peebles,
SW by Lyne, and W by Newland.s. In outline re-
sembling a triangle, witli northward apex, it has an
utmost length from NNE to SSW of 9| miles, an utmost
width from E to W of 5-^ miles, and an area of 18,590^
acre.s, of which 100^- are water. Eddleston Water, rising
in the extreme N, close to the Edinburghshire border,
at 880 feet above sea-level, fiows 6J miles southward
through tins parish, next 2J miles througli that of
Peebles, till, after a total descent of 330 feet, it falls
into the Tweed at Peebles town. It is joined in Eddleston
30
EDDBACHILLIS
by thirteen triliutary burns, on one of which is the pic-
turesque waterfall called Cowie's Lixn, and is a capital
trout-stream. Perch, pike, and eels abound in pretty
Portmore Loch (now an Edinburgh reservoir), which,
lying 2| miles NNE of the village, sends off Loch I5urn
northward to the South Esk river, so that the drainage
belongs partly to the Forth, though mainly to the Tweed.
The surface presents an assemblage of big, green, rounded
hills — from S to N attaining, to the left or E of Eddleston
Water, 1204 feet near Windylaws, 1763 at * Whiteside
Edge, 1928 at *Cardon Law, 2040 at Dundukk'H, 2004
at * Jeffries Corse, 1178 at Northshield Rings, 1024 near
AVestloch, and 926 at Scarce Rig ; to the right or W,
1020 near Cringletie, 1561 at Crailzie Hill, 1327 at
Kilrubie Hill, 1521 at the Cloich Hills, and 1062 near
Whiterig, where asterisks mark those summits that cul-
minate on the confines of the parish. The rocks belong
chiefly to the Lower Silurian formation ; the soils are of
varying quality. Less than a fifth of the entire area is
in tillage, one-twentieth is underwood, and fully seven -
tenths are pastoral or waste. Of five prehistoric hill-
forts, the best preserved are Northshield (450 x 370 feet)
and Milkiston (550 x 450), the former consisting of three
concentric oval walls and ditches, the latter of four.
The mansions are Portmore, Darnhall, and Cringletie,
all separately noticed ; and 3 proprietors hold each an
annual value of more than £500, 3 of between £100 and
£500, and 2 of from £20 to £50. Eddleston is in the
presbytery of Peebles and synod of Lothian and Tweed-
dale ; the living is worth £423. The church, built in
1829, contains 420 sittings ; and the school, with accom-
modation for 106 children, had (1880) an average attend-
ance of 83, and a grant of £76, Is. 6d. Valuation (1881)
£10,319, 19s. Pop. (1801) 677, (1831) 836, (1861) 758,
(1871) 700, (1881) 711.— Ore?. Sur., sh. 24, 1864.
Eddrachalda or Calda. See Assyxt.
Eddrachillis (Gael, eadar-dc-chaolas, ' between two
firths'), a coast parish in the W of Sutherland, containing
the village of Scourie, at the head of Scourie Bay, 21
miles S by W of Cape Wrath, 29 NNE of Loch Inver
{vid Kylesku Ferry), and 43^ NW of Lairg, under which
it has a post office, \nt\\ money order and savings' bank
departments. Till 1724 forming one parish witli
Durness and Tongue as part of ' Lord Reay's country,'
it now is bounded NE and E by Durness, SE by Lairg
and Creich, S and SW by Assynt, and W by the
Atlantic Ocean. Its utmost length, from N by W to
S by E, is 28J miles ; its utmost breadth from E to W,
exclusive of islands, is 15 J miles ; and its area is 226
square miles, or 144,617 acres, of which 1059| are fore-
shore and 7985| water. Of thirty-five islands and
islets belonging to the parish, and lying at distances of
from a few yards to 2^ miles from the mainland, only
Handa challenges special attention. Kylesku projects
far inland from the sea, along the boundary with
Assynt, and forks at its head into Lochs Glendhu and
Glencoul. Laxford and Inchard are only less con-
siderable sea-lochs ; and, save to the N, the entire coast
is niched and vandykcd by a multitude of lesser inlets.
The district between Lochs Laxford and Inchard, and
eastward thence to the boundary with Durness, is called
in Gaelic Ccathramh-cjarhh, or the ' rough territory ; '
whilst that to the N of Loch Inchard bears the
name of Ashir, or ' cultivable country. ' The coast,
which rises steeply in the N to a height of 600 feet
above sea-level, as seen from the sea at a distance of
some miles, bears a striking resemblance to many parts
of the coasts of Norway ; both seaboard and interior
are reputed to be wilder and more rugged than any
other region of similar extent in Scotland ; and the
untire surface, with rare exception, is a grand assem-
blage of crags, hills, glens, ravines, defiles, lochs, tarns,
torrents, and towering mountains. The glens and
ravines, in many instances, are so narrow, tortuous,
rugged, and precipitously flanked as to be dangerous to
strangers unattended by a guide. Of lakes tlicrc is a
veritable net-work, among the larger being Sandwood
Loch (9x3 furl). Loch na Claise Carnaich {I'i x 4 furl. ;
490 feet above sea-level). Loch Slack (2Jt miles x 1 mile;
465
EDEN
118 feet), Loch More (4 miles x 3 furl. ; 127 feet), aud
Loch an Leatliaid Bhiiaiu (Ig mile x 3J furl.; 690 feet).
These generallj' afford good sport to auglers, as likewise
do the river Laxford aud uumerous lesser streams. The
mountains are variouslj- isolated, clustered, or in ranges,
and, with a great diversity of form and altitude, exhibit
a high degree of grandeur and picturesqucness, including,
from N to S, *Creag Eiabhach (1592 feet), Ben Dearg
.Mhor (1527), An Socuch (1165), *Foinaven (2952), Sail
ilhor (2580), Ben Auskaird (1265), Ben Stack (2364),
Meallau Liath (2625), Ben Strome (1374), *Ben Hee
(2864), Ben Leoid (2597), and *Ben Uidhe (2384), where
asterisks mark those summits that culminate on the
borders of the parish. The rocks comiirise hornblende
slate, red sandstone, and limestone, but mainly are
either gneissic or crystaline. Very little land is in
tillage, and even tliat little is cultivated solely by
manual labour, or with very little aid from the plough.
The arable soil on the coast and in the valleys, all the
way between Kylesku and Loch Inchard, is principally
a mixture of gravel and moss ; but in Ashir district is
dark loam intermixed with sand. A vast proportion of
the parish is included in the Duke of Sutherland's deer
forest, and a very large area is devoted to sheep walks.
Fishing is actively prosecuted, in many instances by
the crofters. From remote ancestors of the Duke of
Sutherland the entire territory was conveyed in the
early part of the 13th century to the Morays of Culbin,
and, passing by maniage about the year 1440 to the
Kinnairds of Kinnaird, afterwards went to the Mac-
leods. About 1550 it was seized by a branch of the
Mackays, who took the designation of Mackays of
Scourie ; aud in 1829 it was repurchased by the Suther-
land family, and has since undergone great improve-
ment in its dwellings, roads, aud general economy.
Some ancient Caledonian standing stones are at
Baduabay ; and remains of Scandinavian forts are at
Kylestrome and Scourie. — The parish is in the presby-
tery of Tongue and synod of Sutlierland and Caithness,
and is ecclesiastically divided into Eddrachillis ])roper
and KiNLOCHBERViE, the former a living worth £218.
The church, at the head of Badcall Bay, 2h miles SSE
of Scourie, contains 275 sittings. There are also Free
churches of Eddrachillis and Kinlochbervie ; and three
public schools — Badcall, Oldshore, and Scourie — with re-
spective accommodation for 57, 59, and 55 children, had
(1880) an average attendance of 44, 36, and 38, and grants
of £34, £22, 15s., and£50, 8s. Valuation (1860)£3760,
(1882) £5167, 2s. lid.— all but £119 held by the Duke
of Sutherland. Pop. (1801)1253,(1831)1965, (1861)
1641, (1871) 1530, (1881) 1523, of wliom 603 wcro in
Scourie registration district and 920 in that of Kinloch-
bervie.—C^rrf. Sicr., shs. 107, lOS, 113, 1880-82.
Eden, an estate, with a mansion, in King-Edward
parish, Aberdeenshire. The mansion, standing on the
right bank of the Deveron, 4 miles SSE of Banff, and
2^ NW by N of King-E<lward station, is a modern
edifice, with beautiful grounds, and commands an ex-
tensive view of the Deveron's valley. It was the birth-
place in 1829 of the Right lion. Mountstuart Elphin-
stone Grant Duff, who represented the Elgin burghs
from 1857 to 1881, when he became Governor of Jladras.
An old castle, g mile S of Eden House, was once a place
of considerable strength, but now is a shapeless ruin.
Eden, a river of northern and north-eastern Fife,
formed by the confluence of Carniore and Beattie Burns
at Burnside, on the Kinross-shire border, 3,^ miles NE
of Milnathort, and 3^ A\'S\V of Strathmiglo. Thence
it runs through the jiarish of Strathmiglo ; between the
parishes of Auchturmuchty, Collessie, and Monimail on
the left, of Falkland, Kettle, and Cults on the right ;
through the parish and jtast the town of Cupar ; and
between the j>arislies of Dairsic and I^euihars on the
left, of Kemljack and St Andrews on the right — till, at
St Andrews Bay, it falls into the German Ocean. Its
prevailing direction is first ENE, next E, next ESE,
next and mainly, or from about tlie middle of its con-
tact with Collessie, ENE. Its length of course, mea-
sured along the windings, is 29J miles, viz., 174' from
466
EDGERSTON
Burnside to Cupar Bridge, and llf thence to Eden
Mouth. Its tributaries are numerous, but all small.
Its basin, for the most part, is a fine flat valley, of great
fertility and highly cultivated, more beautiful than bold
in natural features, and bearing the names of Stratheden
and the Howe of Fife. Large portions of land on its
banks were formerly devastated by its floods, but are
now protected by canal cuts and embankments. From
Burnside the total fall is only 300 feet ; and the current
throughout the greater part of its course, jiarticularly
below the town of Cupar, is very slow, yielding scanty
water-power, but skilfully husbanded for driving mills.
In spite of these mills, the Eden is a very lair trouting
stream, but the ascent of salmon is hindered by various
danjs. Its lowest reaches, to the extent of 6 miles, are
estuary, mostly left bare at the recess of the tide ; and
have, midway, extensive beds of cockles and mussels.
The river might, at no great expense, be rendered navi-
gable to Cupar.— Orel. ISur., shs. 40, 48, 49, 1865-68.
Edendon Water, a mountain rivulet in Blair Atliole
parish, Perthshire, rising, at an altitude of 2700 feet,
among the central Grampians, close to the Inverness-
shire border, and SJ miles SSE of Dalwhiunie Hotel.
Thence it runs 10 miles partly eastward, but chiefly
southward, and falls into the Garry ^ mile WNAV of
Dalnaeardoch, after a total descent of 600 feet. — Ord.
Sur., shs. 64, 55, 1874-69.
Edenham. See Ednam.
Edenkillie. See Edinkillie.
Edenshead, Edentown, or Gateside, a village in
Strathmiglo parish, Fife, near the left bank of the
Eden, 2 miles WSW of Strathmiglo town. It includes
the hamlet of Edensbank to the E ; adjoins Edenshead
House on the S ; and has a post office (Gateside), a sta-
tion (Gateside) on the Fife and Kinross section of the
North British, and a U.P. church.
Edenstown, a neat modern village in Collessie parish,
Fife, 1| mile WNW of Lady bank.'
Eden Water, a stream of Berwick and Roxburgh shires,
rising in Legerwood parish, Sg miles ESE of Lauder,
at an altitude of 860 feet. Thence it winds 232 uiiles
eastward, southward, and eastward again, through or
along tlie border of Legerwood, Westruther, Gordon,
Hume, Earlston, Nenthorn, Smailholm, Stichill, Kelso,
and Eduam, till, after a total descent of 760 feet, it falls
into the Tweed, at a point IJ mile E of Ednam village
and 3^ miles NE of Kelso town. It is a first-rate trout-
stream, especially above Stichill Linn ; and the lower
part of its course is very beautiful, through rich and
liuely-wooded pastoral scenery. — Ord. Sur., sh. 25,
1865.
Edenwood, a mansion in Ceres parish, Fife, on the
right bank of the Eden, 2 miles SSW of Cupar. Its
owner, Sir George Campbell, K. C.S.I, (b. 1825; sue.
1854), holds 245 acres in the shire, valued at £367 per
annum. He was Lieut. -Governor of Bengal from 1871
to 1874, and since 1875 has represented the Kirkcaldy
burghs.
Ederdoun. See Eudeuton.
Ederham. See Eduom.
Ederline or Aligan, a pretty loch on the western
border of CJlassary jiarish, Argyllshire, with Ford vil-
lage near its foot. Lying 122 feet above sea-level, it
has an utmost length and lireadth of 4 and 2^ furlongs ;
contains a few trout and some big pike, running up to
30 lbs. ; and sends off a stream 7 furlongs northward to
the lieatl of Loch Awe. — 0/(/. Sur., sh. 37, 1876.
Edgar. See Pout Edgar.
Edgebucklin Brae. See Pinkie.
Edgehead, a handet in Liberton parish, Edinburgh-
shire, 5 furlungs S8W ol' Gilmerton.
Edgehead, a hamlet in Cranston parish, Edinburgh-
shire, 3 miles ESE of Dalkeith.
Edgerston, a quoad sacra parish on the southern bor-
der of Roxburghshire, 1\ miles SSE of its post-town
and station, Jedliurgh. Comprising tlic detaehed sec-
tions of Jedburgh parish, with portions of Oxnani and
Soutlidean, it is in the presbytery of Jedljuigli and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale ; the minister's stipend
EDINAMPLE
is £120. The church was built in 1838, and contains
200 sittings. Edgerston House here, near the left bank
of au affluent of Jed Water, is the seat of AVilliani Alex-
ander Oliver-Rutherfurd, Esq. (b. 1818 ; sue. 1S79),
who owns 7703 acres in the shire, valued at £3463 per
annum. A public school, with accommodation for 60
children, had (1880) an average attendance of 61, and a
grant of £62, lis. Pop. (1861) 359, (1871) 365, (1881)
358.— OrcZ. aS'«/-., sh. 17, 1864.
Edinample, an estate, with a mansion, in Bahjuhidder
parish, Perthshire. The mansion, standing in the
mouth of Glen Ample, on the southern side of the
upper part of Loch Earn, 2 miles NE of Lochearnhead
station, is an ancient castellated edifice ; and has roman-
tic wooded grounds, traversed by Ample "Water, which
forms, in Iront of the mansion, a picturesque double
waterfall.
Edinbain, a hamlet in Duirinish parish. Isle of Skye,
Inverness-shire, at the head of Loch Grishinish, lOi
miles E of Dunvegan, and IS^ NW of Portree, under
which it has a post office, with money order, savings'
bank, and telegraph departments. At it are a comfort-
able little inn, a merchant's shop, a smithy, a mill, a
public school, a shooting-lodge, and a slated, stone-
built hospital, founded and amply endowed by the late
Mr Macleod of Grishinish.
Edinbellie. See Balfron.
Edinburgh, the metropolis of Scotland and county
town of Midlothian, is situated 2 miles S of the Firth
of Forth. Its Observatory on the Calton Hill stands in
lat. 55° 57' 23" N, and long. 3' 10' 30" "\Y. It is SSW of
Aberdeen, S by W of Dundee, S by E of Pei-th, E by N
of Glasgow, NE of Ayr, and N by E of Dumfries. Its
distance in straight line, as the crow flies, is 186 miles
from John o' Groat's House, and 337 from London. Its
distance, by road, is 35^ miles from Stirling, 42 from
Dundee, 42f from Glasgow, 44 from Perth, 49 fi'om
Hawick, 57 from Berwick-upon-Tweed, 71 from Dum-
fries, 92^ from Carlisle, 108 from Aberdeen, 156i from
Inverness, and 392 from London ; while, by railway,
the distance is 36 miles from Stirling, 45 from Perth,
47^ from Glasgow, 49i from Dundee, 53 from Hawick,
57f from Berwick-upon-Tweed, 88 from Ayr, 90 from
Dumfries, 98;| from Carlisle, 112f from Aberdeen, 163
from Stranraer, 189 from Inverness, and 398i from Lou-
don by way of the Trent Valley or Midland Railway,
402 by way of Carlisle and Birmingham or London and
North-Western, 407^ of Berwick and York, Great North
ern and East Coast.
Site. — The city is built on ridges of east-and- west-
ward extension of varying height, and on the valleys
between or the slopes beyond. The hills are partly
overlapped by, and partly extend beyond, the city ;
they occupy an area within a circuit of about 6 miles ;
and, at their northern margin, about 2 miles from
the Firth, are bounded by a slightly inclined plain,
which extends from them to the shore. These hills
<,'Onsist mainly of erupted rocks, tlirown up from what
was once a flat surface by a series of upheavals, and
afterwards much modified by denudation and other
causes ; and, in their natural state, before they were
taken possession of hy man, must have formed a sin-
gularly striking and imposing group. Arthur's Seat,
to the SE of these, rises 822 feet above .sea-level,
sloping or rolling to the E over a base of nearly a mile,
and presenting to the AV a bold, precipitous, diver-
sified face of rugged rock, with an outline, as seen at
.short distances a little to the S of W, resembling that
of a lion couchant. A sloping valley lies along the
W base of this hill, known as the Hunter's Bog,
which, though not long ago as solitary as any remote
Highland glen, is now used almost daily by the Edin-
burgh garrison and local volunteers as a range for
rifle practice. Westward of this valley the ground rises
regularly over a base of about 700 yards, till it attains
a height of 574 feet above sea-level ; then in a semi-
circle, sweeping round convexly from the S to the N,
breaks sheer down in the rugged greenstone precipices
of Salisbury Crags. At tlie base of these crags there is
EDINBURGH
a footpath several feet in width, vulgarly known as
the Radical Road, from which a most commanding
and beautiful jirospect is obtained. A belt of low
ground, variously flat, sloping, and undulating, lies
round the skirts of these two hills, the whole attached
to the royal grounds of Holyrood, and included in what
is now called the Queen's Park. The Calton Hill, which
connnences about 200 yards NW of the N end of the
Salisbury semicircle, rises, in somewhat rounded con-
tour, to an altitude of 348 feet above sea-level, and re-
presents, to the NW, an abruptly sloping face, over-
looking what was an old village, called Greenside ; but,
in other directions, the declivities, though rapid, are by
no means steep, and it has here been so terraced by art
as to afl'ord room for rows all round of elegant private
houses. It bears on its shoulders and sumuut various
public buildings and monuments ; and, like the loftier
hills to the SK, is distinguished for the magnificence
of the views which it offers, as well as the additional
feature it contributes to the general aspect of the city.
The ground to the W" of the hollow at the base of
Salisbury Crags rises in rapid gradient, till, at the
distance of 500 yards, it attains an elevation in St
Leonard's Hill of 248 feet ; and forms thence a broad-
backed ridge of about 1400 yards from E to W^ This
ground declines from its summit to a flanking ravine on
the N, and slopes S by imperceptible gradation, till,
at the distance of a mile, it merges in flat or softly un-
dulating open country. It is covered over nearly all its
area by the streets and suburbs of the more modern
section of the Old Town. The ravine stretching E and
AV along the N base of this ridge is occupied by an
ancient sti'eet knoMn as the Cowgate, once the abode of
the nobles and grandees of Scotland, but now a liaunt
of the poorest classes, bearing nearly the same relation
to Edinburgh as the district of St Giles bears to Lon-
don. A hill, which has been aptly compared to a long
wedge lying flat on the ground, ascends gradttally west-
warel from the hollow between Salisbury Crags and the
Calton Hill, to a distance of 1800 yards, flanking closely
tlie N side of the Cowgate. It commences on the E
at level ground in front of Holyrood Palace, and ter-
minates on the AV, at an altitude of 437 feet above sea-
level, in the frowning citadel crowning the grandly
massive precipice of the Castle rock. It was along the
ridge of this hill that the original city was at length built,
which consisted, as it still does, of one long street stretch-
ing steadily upwards from the Palace to the Castle, flanked
all the way by tall tenements, and sending off no end of
close lanes of similar ])iles in downward slope to the
right and left, so that the whole has been compared to
some huge reptile figure, of which the closes were the
lateral members, Hohrood the tail, and the Castle the
head. A vale, averaging abotit 200 yards wide, extends
along the N base of this wedge-shaped hill, which, where
it lies under the wing of the city proper, yras formerly the
bed of a sheet of water, called the Nor Loch ; but is
now drained, being occupied partly by public gardens,
partly by railway lines and a station, and crossed bj- a
mound and bridges. An eminence, or very gentle and
broad-backed ridge, with features much less salient than
those of any of the other rising-grounds, ascends north-
ward from the vale to a distance of about 250 yards, and
descends thence, in the main, in a long easy slope, to
the plain between the city and the Firth. It swells,
near its eastern extremity, into a considerable rounded
shoulder, terminating at that end in a curving gorge
which separates it from the Calton Hill ; declines, at its
AV extrenuty ]>artly in almost impercejitible slope to the
environing low ground, partly in considerable declivity
to the banks of the AVater of Leith ; and bears, on its
southern half, the original New Town, and on its northern
half and western slopes, the second Ntw Town.
Most travellers who have visited botli cities have re-
marked a resemblance, as to site and general appearance,
between Edinburgh and Athens. Stewart, tlie author
of The Antiquities of Athens, was the first to remark
and describe the similarity ; and he has been followed
by Dr Clarke, Mr H. AV. AVilliains, and many other
467
EDINBURGH
descriptive writers well qualified to form a correct jiiilg-
ment, so that Edinburwli has, by almost general consent,
been called 'ilodern Athens,' and tlie 'Athens of the
North.' ' The distant view of Athens from the yEgean
Sea,' says Mr "Williams, 'is extremely like that of Edin-
bnrgh from the Firth of Forth, tliongh certainly the
latter is considerably superior.' 'There arc,' he adds,
'several points of view on the elevated grounds near
Edinburgh, from which the resemblance between the
two cities is complete. From Torphin in particular,
one of the low heads of the Pentlands immediately
above the village of Colinton, the landscape is exactly
that of the vicinity of Athens as viewed from the bottom
of ilount Anchesmns. Close upon the right, Brilessus
is represented by the Mound of Braid ; before, in the
abrupt and dark mass of the Castle, rises the Acropolis;
the hill Lycabettus, joined to that of the Areopagus,
appears in the Calton ; in the Firth of Forth we behold
the ^gean Sea ; in Inchkeith, ^gina ; and the hills of
Peloponnesus are precisely those of the opposite coast of
Fife. Nor is the resemblance less striking in the general
characteristics of the scene ; for, although we cannot ex-
claim, "These are the groves of the Academy, and that
the Sacred Way !" yet, as on the Attic shore, we certainly
here behold "a country rich and gay, broke into hills with
balmy odours crowned, and jo3^ous vales, mountains and
streams, and clustering towns, and monuments of fame,
and scenes of glorious deeds, in little bounds." It is,
indeed, most remarkable and astonishing that two cities,
placed at such a distance from each other, and so dif-
ferent in every political and artificial circumstance,
should naturally be so alike.' When comparing the
two cities as to their interior structure, however, ^Ir
Williams sees a considerable diff'erence between them, and
pronounces Edinburgh to be the superior. He says,
' The epithets Northern Athens and Modern Athens
have been so frequently applied to Edinburgh that the
mind unconsciously yields to the illusion awakened by
these terms, and imagines that the resemblance between
these cities must extend from the natural localities and
the public buildings to the streets and private edifices.
The very reverse of this is the case ; for, setting aside
her public structures, Athens, even in her best days,
could not have coped with the capital of Scotland. '
Scenery. — Edinburgh, from whatever point the eye
regards it, presents a variety of scenic gi'oupings of such
singular eftect as is met with in no other citj' of the
world. Though there is nothing gorgeous or sumptuous
in any one feature, neither is there anything mean ; it
is, in a scenic regard, a city all over, and bespeaks a
presence as of something at once grand and venerable.
A stranger coming within fair view of it from any
quarter sees no aerial dome towering above a sea of
of humbler piles as in Rome and London, and no grove
of turrets shooting up from some majestic cathedral as
in Milan and York ; but, wherever he turns, there is
presented to him a rich and varied assemblage of sub-
stantial, often imposing, structures — noAV retiring into
the valleys, now climbing the acclivities, now spreading
over the slopes, and anon crowning the summits of its
romantic hills. He observes nowhere, as in so many of
the other cities of world repute, a mere dingy conglo-
meration of commonplace houses, clustered round some
magnificent edifice, or hugging the environs of some
handsome airy street, but on all hands elegance, beauty,
variety, and grandeur struggling for ascendancy, and
contributing by their harmony to produce the most
unique and superb effects. Plainness, poverty, un-
sightliness, even offensive squalor, as well mal-arrange-
ment and positive confusion, do, as in all our large
town.s, indeed shallenge censurable regard ; but these
do not strike the eye with such obtrusiveness as to
mar the general effect, or, if they do, it is often with
some redeeming feature or association as to contribute
to, rather than detract from, the impression the city
a.s a rule imparts. Nor, as the eye surveys them,
are nhe surroundings, far as well as near, of the city,
the framework in wliich the jewel is set, less striking
lliau the interior. These extend from the Lammermuirs
46S
EDINBURGH
on the SE to the Grampians on the NW, and from the
open sea of the German Ocean to the very sources of the
Forth ; and, besides what ma}' still further be regarded
as back-ground, consisting of high lands and low, they
em])race nearly the whole of the Firth, a great part of
Fife, and a still greater part of the richly cultivated,
fairly wooded, hill-and-dale expanse of the Lothians ;
so that, if we except the moodily desolate, tiie wildl}'
grand, and the savagely terrible, there is hai-dly a single
aspect of Nature to be met with elsewhere of which we
may not trace some feature here. It is thus these scenes
are described by Delta in the well-known lines —
' Traced like a map the landscape lies.
In cultured beauty stretching wide ;
Tliere Pentland's green acclivities.
There ocean with its azure tide,
There Arthur's Seat, and, gleaming through
The southern wing, Dunedin blue ;
While in the Orient Lanimer's daughters,
A distant giant range, are seen,
North Berwick Law, with cone of green.
And Bass amid the waters.'
Picturesque views of the city, either by itself or in com-
bination with strips of foreground, may be obtained
from various points all round and beyond tlie outskirts,
each one of which, as it embraces separately distinct
features and groupings, will be found to be more or less
substantially different from the others. One at hand
on the W, especiallj' from the lands of Coates, takes
in the new princel}' piles in the neighbourhood, the
spire of St Marj-'s Cathedral, the dome of St George's
parish church, the campanile of Free St George's, with,
farther back, the tower and pinnacles of St John's, and
the massive, bastioned, mural rock of the Castle ; while
at a station more remote, particularly from Corstor-
phine Hill, a view of wider range is obtained, which,
besides including the objects mentioned in diminished
proportions, embraces a great part of the New Town
as it slopes dowm to the shores of the Forth, with the
heights of the Old declining away eastward, dominated
by the smoke-veiled cliffs of Salisbury Crags \vith Arthur's
Seat in their rear. A near view from the N side, espe-
cially one from Warriston Cemetery and another from
the Botanic Garden, comprises all the New Town to
the N as it slopes upward to tlie Old Town with its
towers and castle-battlements invading the sky, flanked
to the right by the heights above the Dean, and to the
left by the Calton Hill with its monuments, and another
sideward view of Arthur's Seat and the Crags. Farther
N this view, though always of course on a smaller scale,
becomes more and more pictures(iue, till, as you ap-
proach and land on the Fife shores right opposite, the
whole assumes a toy-box dimension, with the ports of
Leith and Granton on the foreground and the blue ridges
of the Lammermuirs and the Pentlands traced on the
vault behind. Views of the city from the E may be
obtained from the Calton Hill, Salisbury Crags, and
Arthur's Seat. That from the Calton Hill, from which
the view all round is of a kind to baffle description,
overlooks the city along the line of Princes Street with
the New Town, backed by the western hills, on the
right, as it first rises with its spires and monuments,
and slopes away down to tlie N ; and the Old Town on
the left, as it slopes upwards, flanked by the Crags, from
Holyrood to the Castle summit, with the hazy Pentlands
looming in the background.
The view from the face of Salisbury Crags is thus de-
scribed by Sir Walter Scott : ' The prosjiect, in its
general outline, commands a close-built, high-piled city,
stretching itself out in a form which, to a romantic
imagination, may be supposed to represent that of a
dragon ; now a noble arm of the sea, with its rocks, isles,
distant shores, and boundary of mountains ; and now a
fair and fertile chami)aign country, varied with hill,
dale, and rock, and skirted by the picturesque ridge of
the Pentland mountains ; but as the path gently circles
around the base of the cliffs, the prospect, composed as
it is of these enchanting and sulilime objects, changes at
every step, and presents tliem blended with, or divided
EDINBURGH
from, each other in every jio.s.sible variety wliieh can
gratify the eye and the inuiffination. ' The view from
the top of Arthur's Seat is much tlie same as that from
Salisbury Crags, except that it is more sweeping, and
haa the crest of the crags on the western foregi'ound. A
good view from the E of the city proper, exclusive of
the environs, is obtained from St Anthony's Chapel.
Here at his feet the spectator sees on the right the
northern section of the Queen's Park, with Holyrood
Palace and the Chapel Koyal ; beyond these, the terraced
ascent of the Calton Hill, with its tiers in rows and
separate piles of remarkable architectures and sculp-
tures ; in front the valley between the Old Tov\'n and
the Xew, spanned by the lofty North Bridge ; and toward
the left, all the old city itself, towering u})ward from the
point of the wedge, ridge above ridge, and grandly fretted
and crowned with heaven-pointing spires and detiant
battlements. The views from the S, both near and dis-
tant, are at once numerous and excellent, most of these
affoi'ding distinct profiles of Arthur's Seat and Salisbury
Crags on the right and of the Castle rock and ramparts
on the left, with much of the intermediate architecture
of the Old Town and the suburb of the city in the
foreground, wliieh already all but occupies the entire
southern slope. One of the noblest on this side is the
view from Blackford Hill, and is thus described by Sir
"Walter Scott as seen by Lord Maimiou, 'fairer scene
he ne'er surveyed : '
' The wandering eye could o'er it go.
And mark the distant city glow
With gloomy splendour red ;
For on the smoke-wreaths, huge and slow,
That round her sable turrets flow.
The morning beams were shed,
And tinged them with a lustre proud
Like that which streaks a thundercloud.
Such dusky grandeur clothed the height
Where the huge castle holds its state,
And all the steep slope down,
AMiose ridgy back heaves to the sky,
Piled deep and mass}', close and high,
iline own romantic town !
But northward far, witli purer blaze,
On Ochil mountains fell the rays,
And as each heathy top they kissed,
It gleamed a purple amethyst.
Yonder the shores of Fife you saw ;
Here Preston Bay and Berwick Law ;
And broad, between them rolled.
The gallant Firth the e.re might note.
Whose islands on its bosom fioat,
Like emeralds chased in gold.'
The views of the city from the interior are often no
less striking than those from without, and the former
as well as the latter often give rise to impressions that
are quite unique. Not to mention the more artificial
adornments, architectural and other, with their grouping
and array, there are the imposing natural features, with
beetling cliSs and hollow or open dells, and rich inter-
spaces of wooded lawn, tended by the art of the gardener,
and interspersed or bordered here and there with gay
parterres. The streets also, even in the central parts,
afibrd, through abrupt openings, numerous prosjjects,
both charming and extensive, along unobstructed vistas,
or over masses of house-tops, away, by varied landscape,
over firth and dale, on to the often far-otf mountains,
and in one direction the open sea. ' The finest view
from the interior,' says Alexander Smith, 'is obtained
from the corner of St Andrew Street, looking W.
Straight before you the Mound crosses the valley, bear-
ing the National Gallery buildings ; beyond, the Castle
lifts, from grassy slopes and billows of summer foliage,
its weather-stained towers and fortifications, the half-
moon battery giving the folds of its standard to the
wind. Living in Edinburgh there abides, above all
things, a sense of its beauty. Hill, crag, castle, rock,
blue stretch of sea, the j)ict'ares(|ue ridge of the Old
Town, the squares and tenaces of the New — these things,
seen once, are not to be forgotten. The quick life of
to-day sounding around the relics of antiquity, and
overshadowed by the august traditions of a kingdom,
makes Edinburgh more impressive tluan residence in any
other British city. What a poem is that Princes Street !
EDINBURGH
The puppets of the busy many-coloured hour move
about on its jiavement, while across the ravine Time
has piled the Old Town, ridge on ridge, grey as a rocky
coast waslied and worn liy the foam of centuries, peaked
and jagged by gable and roof, windowed from basement
to cope, the whole surmounted by St Giles's airy crown.
Tlie New is there looking at the Old. Two 'limes are
brought face to face, and are yet separated by a thousand
years. Wonderful on winter nights, when the gully is
filled with darkness, and out of it rises, against the
sombre blue and the frosty stars, that mass and bulwark
of gloom, pierced and (luivering with innumerable lights !
There is nothing in Europe to match that. Could you
but roll a river down the valley, it would be sublime.
Finer still, to place one's self near the Burns' Monument
and look toward the Castle. It is more astonishing
than an Eastern dream. A city rises up before you
painted by fire on night. High on air a bridge of
lights leaps the chasm ; a few emerald lamps, like
glowworms, are moving silently about in the railway
station below ; a solitary crimson one is at rest. That
ridged and chimneyed hulk of blackness, with splendour
bursting out at every pore, is the wonderful Old Town,
where Scottish history mainly transacted itself ; while,
opposite, the modern Princes Street is blazing through-
out its length. During the day the Castle looks down
upon the city as if out of another world ; stem vrith all
its peacefidness, its garniture of trees, its slopes of grass.
The rock is dingy enough in colour ; but, after a shower,
its lichens laugh out greenly in the returning sun, while
the rainbow is brightening oa the lowering sky beyond.
How deep the shadow which the Castle throws at noon
over the gardens at its feet where the children play 1
How grand when giant bulk and towery crown blacken
against sunset ! Fair, too, the New Town sloping to
the sea. From George Street, which crowns the ridge,
the eye is led down sweeping streets of stately architec-
ture to the villas and woods that fill the lower ground
and fringe the shore ; to the bright azure belt of the
Forth, -with its smoking steamer or its creeping sail ;
beyond, to the shores of Fife, soft blue, and flecked with
fleeting shadows in the keen clear light of spring, dark
purple in the summer heat, tarnished gold in the autumn
haze ; and further away still, just distinguishable on the
paler sky, the crest of some distant peak carrying the
imagination into the illimitable world.' The finest
close view of the northern half of the city is seen at the
head of the Castle Hill, from the N sidfe of the Castle
esplanade ; or, still better, from the bomb-battery of
the Castle itself, where the lovely space between the Old
Town and the New appears almost perpendicularly under
the eye, with the Scott Monument on its furtJier verge,
the Melville Monument rising a little beyond, and the
greater part of the New Town all around.
' Saint Margaret, what a sight is here !
Long lines of masonrj' appear ;
Scott's Gothic pinnacles arise,
And Melville's st.'itue greets the skies,
And sculptured front and Grecian pile
The pleased yet puzzled eye beguile ;
From yon far landscape where the sea
Smiles on in softest witcherv ;
Till, riant all, the hills of Fife
Fill in the charms of country life.'
Geology. — Edinburgh has always been a favourite field
for geological investigation. Ever since the days of
Hutton, the volcanic rocks which are so well developed
on Arthur's Seat, the Calton Hill, and at the Castle, have
been the subject of careful study among geologists. The
striking features to which these igneous rocks give rise,
arrest the attention even of the non-scientific observer.
Indeed, few cities present such remarkable facilities for
examining the structure and physical relations of ancient
volcanic rocks. The literature bearing on the geology
of Edinburgh and its environs is rather voluminous.
Amongst the various writers on the subject, the names
of Hutton, Playfair, Sir James Hall, Hibbert, Jamiesou,
Hay Cunningham, Edward Forbes, Hugh Miller, Cliarles
M'Laren, A. Geikie, R. Chambers, Milne Home, and
Judd, may be mentioned. Special reference ought to be
469
Cementstone
Series.
Red Sandstone
Series.
EDINBURGH
made to the admiral ile. volume on The Gcolorjy of Fife
and the Lothians, by Charles M'Laren, and to Profe.ssor
A. Geikie's lucid descrijition of the Geology of Edin-
burgh. *
With the exception of Blackford Hill, which is a con-
tinuation of the Lower Old Red Sandstone volcanic rocks
of the Pentlands, the newer portion of Arthur's Seat,
and several isolated veins of igneous rock, the solid
rocks which underlie the city of Edinburgh and Leith
belong to the lowest divisions of the Carboniferous
system. On account of the strata being largely impreg-
nated with lime, they were appropriately named by
M'Laren the Calciferous Sandstone Series — a term which
is now generally applied to them. They may be arranged
in three divisions : —
( _ fZ. An upper division of white sand-
! stones, black and blue shales,
I containing nodules of claj' iron-
^ stone.
2. A middle division of interbedded
volcanic rocks, consisting of
basalts, porphyrites, and tuffs,
Calciferous with intercalated beds of sand-
Sandstone ■{ stone.
Series. f\. A lower division of red and
mottled sandstones, red, green,
and grey shales and marls, with
calcareous nodules and bands
merging occasionally into pure
limestones. Coarse conglomer-
ates occur at the base of this
grouiJ.
The members of the lowest division occupy an irregular
area, bounded by the Braid Hills on the S, Arthur's
Seat on the E, and the Calton Hill on the N, while the
western limit is sharply defined by the great fault ex-
tending from Craiglockhart north-eastwards byMerchis-
ton and the Castle esplanade, to the NW slope of
Calton Hill. "Within this area the strata are arranged
in the form of a low arch, the crest of which runs from
Blackford Hill to St Andrew Square. As this anticlinal
fold is truncated on the W by the fault just referred to,
it is only on the E side of the arch that the complete
succession can be traced. The lowest beds are exposed
in the neighbourhood of Blackford Hill where they con-
sist of conglomerates composed of pebbles, chiefly derived
from the Old Red Sandstone volcanic rocks. They rest
unconformably on these igneous rocks, and are not
faulted against them as has hitherto been supposed. It
is important to note that the strata to the W of Black-
ford Hill occup}' a higher horizon than those on the E
side. As we pass to the SW this overlap gradually
increa.ses till the members of the Upper or Cementstone
Series rest directly on the Old Red Sandstone formation.
This overlap indicates the gradual submergence of the
Pentland ridge in the early part of the Carboniferous
period. At the beginning of that period the Pentlands
formed a promontory jutting far into the sea, in which
the red sandstones were deposited, but eventually the
ridge was submerged and buried beneath the accumulat-
ing sediment of the succeeding groups. Excellent
sections of these basement conglomerates are to be
seen at present in the cuttings of the new Suburban
railway.
Next in order come the sandstones of Craigmillar, and
the strata which are exposed in the southern part of the
town, consisting of red sandstones with red and green
marls. In the districts of Newington, Grange, the
Meadows, and Warrender Park, these beds dip to the N
at angles varying from 10 to 15 degrees, while to the W
of these localities they dip to the NW — thus indicating
the dome-shaped arrangement of the strata. Excellent
sections have been recently exposed in the course of ex-
cavations in Warrender Park. They also occur in
Gilmore Place with an inclination to the NW, and tiiey
reappear at the head of Keir Street with an easterly ilip.
The anticlinal axis must therefore run northwards be-
tween these two points. The same beds are well dis-
played on the S slope of the Castle esplanade as seen
from Johnston Terrace. In this well-known section, the
• Geological Survey Memoir accompanying Sheet 32 of the
1-inch Ma|>.
470
EDINBURGH
honeycombed sandstones with red and green marls are
brought into conjunction with the plug of basalt on which
the Castle stands, by the great fault already referred to.
They dip to the E at an angle of from 15 to 20 degrees,
but as they approach the fault they become horizontal,
and eventually bend over till the}- conform to the hade of
the fault which is inclined at an angle of SO degrees to
the NW. The SE slope of the plug of basalt is
beautifully slickensided. The stripe, however, are not
vertical, but are slightly inclined to the NE, show-
ing a faint lateral thrust in that direction, as well
as a downthrow to the NW. From the Castle east-
wards to Holyrood and the Hunter's Bog there is a
continuous easterly dip at an average angle of 15 de-
grees, where they pass conformably below the inter-
bedded volcanic rocks of Arthur's Seat (division 2).
Fossils rarely occur in the red sandstones. Fragments
of wood have been found in the beds at Craig-
millar, which are probably the remains of pine-like
Arancoria. In the quarry above Salisbury Crags, a
small Estheria Peacliii was found by Jlr Grieve. Under
St Anthony's Chapel, in a bed cran^med with vegetable
matter, Mr Bryson found specimens of Dadoxylon, and
Professor A. Geikie obtained fragments of Poncitcs and
the remains of EMzodus Hibherti. The beds at that
locality lie above the first interbedded lava-flow, now
represented by the Long Row, and it is probable, there-
fore, that they belong to the Cementstone Series.
Towards the close of the deposition of the red sand-
.stones, volcanic aetjvity seems to have begun in the
neighbourhood of Edinburgh. From certain volcanic
oritices, streams of lava and showers of ashes were
ejected and spread over the sea-floor, which at intervals
were commingled with ordinary sediment. The records
of this volcanic action are still preserved to us on
Arthur's Seat, the Calton Hill, and at Craiglockhart.
These interbedded volcanic rocks must be carefully dis-
tinguished from the three great intrusive sheets of
igneous rock which were injected between the red sand-
stones forming the westei'u base of Arthur's seat. On
account of their durability these intrusive sheets have
more successfully resisted the denuding agencies than
the intervening sandstones, and hence they now form
the prominent escarpments of St Leonard's, Salisbury
Crags, and the Dasses. The first outflow of lava is re-
presented by the compact basalt of the Long Row which
is overlaid by tufls, volcanic breccias, and ashy sand-
stones which are well exposed at the Dry Dam.
The general character of these volcanic ashes is
diff"erent from the coarse agglomerate which now forms
the higher part of the hill, and which was ejected
at a much later date. The tuffs and ashj^ sandstones
are succeeded by basaltic lavas and porphyrites, the
latter forming the slopes of the Whinny Hill and Dun-
sappie. The junction of these rocks with the overlying
shales and sandstones (division 3) is not seen on the
eastern slope of Arthur's Seat, owing to the covering of
superficial deposits. The evidence is supplied, however,
by the section on Calton Hill.
The contemporaneous volcanic rocks of Arthur's Seat
are truncated on the N side by an E and W fault — an off-
shoot from the main dislocation trending from Craiglock-
hart by the Castle to the NW slope of Calton Hill. This
branching fault has a downthrow to the N, and by
means of it the outcrop of the interbedded volcanic rocks
of Arthur's Seat has been shifted about half a mile to
the W as far as the Calton Hill. The existence of this
fault was clearly proved several years ago in the course of
(Iraining operations along the Canongate, where a con-
tinuous section was exposed of red sandstones and marls,
with a few dykes of igneous rock. The succession of
the volcanic rocks of Calton Hill closely resembles that
of Arthur's Seat. At the base there is a series of basaltic
lavas and tulfs which are overlaid by ])orphyritcs forming
the higher part of the hill. To the E they are rapidly
succeeded by black shales and sandstones (division 3)
occurring in the gardens of Royal Terrace, while on
the NW slope of the hill they are abruptly cut off by
the great fault already described.
EDINBURGH
The strata of the nppnr ilivision difft>r from tlie red
sandstones in litholo^ical character, and particularly in
the greater abundance of fossils. Within the present
area, the prominent members of the Cementstone Series
are the white sandstones of Granton and Craiglcith,
and the Wardie shales. Beyond the limits of the Edin-
burgh district, it comprises the well-known oil shales of
Midlothian and the Burdiehouse Limestone which has
become celebrated for the great abundance of ichthyo-
lites and crustaceans embedded in it. The occurrence
of such a thick mass of limestone in the series, however,
is quite exceptional, as the calcareous bands are itsually
found in seams only a few inches thick. It was
formerly supposed that the sandstones of Granton and
Craigleith occupied a higher horizon than the Wardie
shales, but it is evident from recent investigations
that they underlie the shales. On the shore, at Granton,
the standstones form an arch the axis of which runs
N and S. On the E side of the anticline they dip to
the E, and are succeeded by thin bedded sandstones and
shales which eventually pass underneath the Wardie
shales. The latter are repeated by gentle undulations
eastwards as far as Trinity. The sandstones at Craig-
leith are evidently the inland prolongations of those on
the shore, as the strike of the beds is nearly N" and S.
In this quarry the beds dip lioth to the E and SW
as if curving round an anticlinal fold. A charac-
teristic feature of the sandstones at both localities is the
presence of numerous remains of plants in a fragmen-
tary form, one of the most abundant being Spc7iopteris
affiiiis. Huge trunks of coniferous trees have also been
obtained from these beds. These sandstones make ex-
cellent building material, and have been largely quarried
for this purpose ; indeed the greater part of Edinburgh
has been built of this stone.
The Wardie beds consist of black and blue shales, in
which are embedded nodules of clay ironstone. The
nodules have yielded fish remains, coprolites, and plants.
When these beds are traced inland, they become inter-
calated with bands of sandstone, but the shales form
the essential feature of the subdivision. By means of
the fault extending from Craiglockhart by the Castle to
Calton Hill, the members of the Cementstone Series are
brought into conjunction with successive beds of the
Red Sandstone division. On the NW slope of the
Calton Hill they are thrown against the volcanic series
(division 2), while to the NE of that locality the effect
of the displacement is to bring different members of the
Cementstone Series against each other. It is evident
therefore that the fault is decreasing in amount towards
the NE. Along the W side of ttiis fault the Wardie
shales are generally inclined to the NW. In the neigh-
bourhood of St Andrew Square, however, they form a
well-marked anticline, which has already been referred
to as the northern prolongation of the arch running
southwards to Blackford Hill. In 1865 Mr G. C. Has-
well recorded an interesting exposure on the W side of
Hanover Street, at the corner of Rose Street, where the
strata, consisting of sandstones, shales, and fireclay,
form an anticline and syncline within a horizontal dis-
tance of about 12 feet. They were lately seen on the E
side of Hanover Street, in the course of excavations at
Rose Street, having a north-westerly dip at angles var}'-
ing from 40 to 50 degrees. M'Laren noted tlie occur-
rence of similar beds at the New Club in Princes Street.
Upwards of 100 feet of dark shales dip to the NW at
the West Church Manse. They crop out in the cut-
tings of the Caledonian and new Suburban railways,
and they are also exposed at the Dean near the Dean
Bridge. At these localities they are inclined to the
NW, and a similar dip continues to near Coltbridge,
which forms the centre of a synclinal fold. From this
point westwards we have a gradually descending series
towards the Corstorphine Hill and the Craigleith sand-
stones.
Reference has already been made to the fish remains
and plants embedded in the ironstone nodules, but
there are certain bands of shales in this subdivision,
which are of special importance on accouut of the
EDINBURGH
marine fauna which they have yielded. They occur at
Granton, Craigleith, the Dean Bridge, Drumsheugh,
and Woodhall, and at all these localities there is a
marked identity in the species of fossils. These hori-
zons have been explored by Messrs Henderson and
Bonnie, who have collected a great variety of marine
forms from them, upwards of 17 well-defined species
having been disinterred from the Woodhall shales alone.
Some of the species are typical of the Carboniferous
Limestone, which overlies the Cementstone Series.
The following fossils are characteristic of these beds :
Spirorbis carboTuirixis, Liiujula squamiformv), L.
mytiloidcs, Avicula Hendersoni, Myalina crassa, Bel-
Icrophon dceussatus, Murchisonia striatula, Orthoceras
attcnuoixim, 0. qjlindraceum. This assemblage of fossils
is widely different from that met with in the Burdie-
house Limestone, which is essentially a fresh or brack-
ish water deposit. Indeed, a careful examination of
the fossils derived from the various members of the
Cementstone Series seems to prove that during their
deposition there must have been an alternation of estu-
arine and marine conditions.
The interbedded volcanic rocks at Craiglockhart are
probably on the same horizon as those on Arthur's Seat
and Calton. At the base there is a considerable de-
velopment of felspathic tuff which is overlaid by
basaltic lava. This latter rock, which is a coarse
variety of basalt, presents features of great beauty when
examined microscopically, showing prisms of labrado-
rite with minute grains of augite. This mineral also
occurs in distinct crystals, and the olivine, which is
apparent even to the naked eye, is also well represented.
These volcanic rocks are inclined to the NW, and are
succeeded by sandstones and shales, while, on the N
side, they are abruptly cut off by a fault.
The history of the intrusive igneous rocks of the
Edinburgh district and the later volcanic rocks of
Arthur's Seat is full of interest. Reference has already
been made to the three great intrusive sheets of the
Heriot Mount, Salisbury Crags, and the Dasses which
belong to the period of volcanic activity towards the
close of the deposition of the red sandstones. These
rocks, which consist of coarsely crystalline dolerites,
were not erupted at the surface like the contemporaneous
lavas and tuffs of the Long Row, the Dry Dam, and
Whinny Hill. Their intrusive character is clearly
proved by their relations to the overlying and under-
lying strata. The .sandstones and shales both above
and below these sheets have been altered by contact
with them, and the two lower ones gradually steal across
the edges of the intervening strata till they unite to
form the great columnar mass of Samson's Ribs.
But these igneous masses are of older date than those
which cap the hill. There can be little doubt that the
former belong to the period of volcanic activity at the
close of the Red Sandstone Series. We have already
pointed out that the older volcanic rocks of Arthur's
Seat lie on the E side of the anticlinal axis, on which
the S part of Edinburgh stands, and that they are regu-
larly succeeded by the higher divisions of the Carboni-
ferous system. Long before the eruption of the later
volcanic materials, the older rocks had been tilted to
the E, and had been subjected to prolonged denudation.
A vast thickness of material had been removed. The
softer sedimentary strata had been worn into hollows,
and the harder igneous rocks of Salisbury Crags, the
Dasses, and the Long Row projected as ridges before
the renewal of volcanic activity. The later igneous
rocks consist of coarse agglomerate and basalt, the for-
mer lieing ejected before the basalt. The coarse ash is
ailmirably displayed in the Queen's Drive, where the
blocks are extremely large, from an examination of
which it is evident that they have been derived from
the older rocks of the hill. On the top of Artliur's Seat
there is a mass of basalt, filling the vent from which
these coarse agglomerates were discharged. Tiie basalt
of the lion's haunch is part of a lava flow wiiich rests
on the agglomerate, and sends down a branching vein
into it. No precise age can be assigned to these later
471
EDINBURGH
ejections. All that can be safely averred is, that they
are more recent than the Lower Carboniferous period.
The rock on which the Castle stands consists of a
compact basalt with a marked columnar structure. It
is an oval-shaped mass, which, save on the E side, is
surrounded by beds of division 3, and on account of
its greater hardness has more successfully resisted denu-
dation. It closely resembles many of the volcanic
necks which are so common among the Scotch Carboni-
ferous rocks. They represent the vents from which the
lavas and ashes were discharged, and are now filled
with tutf or crystalline rocks. The neck on which the
Castle stands is abruptly truncated on the E side by the
great fault which has been frequently referred to, and
by means of this dislocation it must have been thrown
down from a much higher level.
At various localities throughout Edinburgh veins and
dykes of basalt and dolerite occur. Some of these have
an E and W trend, and are probably of Tertiary age.
One of these is exposed in the path leading up to the
Calton Hill, at the back of Greenside church, where it
is intruded among the volcanic rocks of the hill. They
are also to be seen in the Water of Leith near the Dean
Bridge, and in the cutting of the Caledonian railway
near Coltbridge. Several veins have been traced in the
old part of the to\\Ti : one from the foot of St Mary
Street to St Patrick Square, and another from the
eastern part of the Cowgate to the University.
The effects of glaciation are still fresh in the neigh-
bourhood of Edinburgh. The rounded contour of the
ground and the striated surfaces alike point to the
operation of this agent. On the Corstorphine Hill
several striated surfaces occur which were first observed
by Sir James Hall, the direction of the markings being
a few degi'ees N of E. At one point on the N side of
the Castle, nearly horizontal strife were observed on a
vertical face of rock pointing in a similar direction. On
the Calton Hill there are several examples. Till recently
a striated surface was exposed at the side of the road
leading to the Nelson Monument. Fresh instances have
been met with lately at the side of the Low Calton,
owing to the removal of the boulder clay, the general
trend being ENE. In the Queen's Park they occur on
the top of the Salisbury Crags, and the splendid rochc
mouto7inee in the Queen's Drive, above Samson's Ribs,
is now well known. A remarkable example of an over-
hanging cliff with a striated surface is to be seen on the
road leading to Duddingston, in what is locally desig-
nated ' the Windy Gowl ' — a phenomenon which could
only have been produced by glacier ice. In the course
of this year well-preserved striae were observed by Mr
B. N. Peach within 100 feet of the top of Arthur's
Seat, at the top of the gully, known by the name of
'the Gutted Haddy.' Here the ice-markings ascend
the slo])e at an angle of 20° on a nearly vertical face of
rock. The direction is E 18° N, and from the appear-
ances presented by the striated surfaces it is evident
that they were produced by ice moving towards the
ENE. At Craigmillar the strioe run approximately E
and W; and again, on the Braid Hills, where they are
very plentiful, the trend is to the S of E. ' Striated
pavements' in the boulder clay have been observed
both by Hugh Miller and Professor A. Geikie, indi-
cating an ice movement in an ENE direction. All
these instances prove that Edinburgh was glaciated by
ice moving towards the E, while here and tliere slight
local deflections were produced by the irregular contour
of the ground.
The greatest accumulation of boulder clay is that
which covers Princes Street. In the low-lying parts of
the town it is buried beneath the alluvial deposits of
ancient lochs or is overlapped by the accumulations of
the raised beaches. Along the coast-line it crops out
from underneath these marine deposits. A few years
ago a fine exposure of boulder clay was made in the
course of the excavations for the AllDert Dock at Leith.
It consisted of a tough dark clay charged with blocks
of various sizes from widely separated localities. Along
with the blocks of local origin there were stones whiclj
472
EDINBURGH
had come from Corstorphine Hill, the Iklons Hill,
Campsie Fells, and the Grampians. Similar evidence
is obtained from the patches of boulder clay round
Arthur's Seat. On the Queen's Drive, where the second
escarpment begins leading down to Duddingston, there
is a considerable thickness of this deposit overlying the
Carboniferous red marls. It is fawn-coloured, and
consists mainly of sandstone blocks associated with
boulders of carboniferous limestone, fragments of coal,
black shale, diabase, iwrphyrites, quartz rock pebbles
from the neighbourhood of Callander, and schists from
the Grampians. The same commingling of foreign and
local rocks is observable in the small patch, in the
gully, named ' the Gutted Haddy,' at a height of over
700 feet. This locality is considerably above the level
of the sources from which some of the blocks have been
derived, so that they could not have been transported
by the agency of floating ice.
The deposits of the 100 feet beach lap round the hills
on which Edinburgh stands, their inland margin never
rising much above this level. They consist of a great
series of stratified sands and clays which once formed
an almost continuous plain, but which has been trenched
and worn into hollows by prolonged denudation. Where
a section can be obtained it is evident that the mounds
on which the marine deposits rest have been carved out
of the solid rock. Though the finely stratified sands
predominate in these beds, yet in places they wholly
consist of finely laminated clay free from stones. Oc-
casionally there are layers of small stones as if they
had been dropped into the accumulating sediment by
floating ice. These are mostly local, but a few have
been transported from the Grampians. Some chalk
stones and chalk flints also occur in the clays, the
former resembling the Danish chalk in the island of
Faxoe. One of the best sections for examining this
deposit is the clay pit at Portobello. In this section
there are certain bands highly crumpled, while the beds
above and below are undisturbed. Last year an excel-
lent exposure was seen in Warriston Park, nearly oppo-
site the gate leading into the Botanic Garden, where
several laj'ers of these crumpled beds occurred, the inter-
vening layers of sand being free from any contortion.
The folds were mostly inverted, and inclined to the
SW. These phenomena may be accounted for by sup-
posing that, during the deposition of these beds, they
were occasionally subjected to the movement of pack
ice driven on to the banks of sand and mud during low
tide by the NE winds blowing up the Firth. The
partly consolidated clays were pushed laterally by the
ice as it was driven shorewards. As the ice floated or
melted away, the crumpled clays were again overlaid
by ordinary sediment. The crumpling might recur at
intervals with severe weather, a low tide, and NE
winds. This supposition is strengthened by an ex-
amination of the contents of the beds. The shells are
of an arctic type, and are not abundant ; while the
Foraminifera and Entomostraca are also arctic. The
claj's consist of the finest sediment — the flour of the
rocks, in fact, and are almost destitute of organic
matter. They point to a time when the rivers flowing
into the Forth were turbid with glacial mud, when
the land surface was nearly devoid of vegetation, and
when the estuary was not suitable for the growth of
alg<B.
The 50 feet beach has been carved out of the deposits
of the older terrace, the underlying boulder clay, and the
solid rock. It foinis a narrow strip along the coast,
the broadest part occurring at the Leith Links. This
ancient beach is bounded by a low inland cliff which is
still tolerably steep where it consists of solid rock, but
in those places where it is carved out of boulder clay, or
the 100 feet terrace, it is merely a sloi)ing bank. The
strata consist of sand and gravel with occasional shells.
Hugh Miller drew attention to some interesting facts
connected with the old beach near Fillysido Bank
between Leith and Portobello. The stones found on the
surface are encrusted by Scrpuloc and i>errorated by
Haxicava, while the under valves of oysters are fre-
EDINBURGH
fluently attached to the boulders. Equally interesting
IS the occurrence of Mija truncata, which has been
preserved with the siphuncular end uppermost in the
act of burrowing in the boulder clay which fonns the
floor of the beach at this point. In all likelihood this
part of the old sea bottom may have formed an oyster
scalp. The localities where these shells occm- are from
4 to 8 feet above the highest stream tides, and from 30
to 38 feet above the position where they are now found
li\'ing. The elevation of the land to its present level
seems to have taken place since its occupation by
man, for in the continuation of this beach farther
up the Firth numerous skeletons of whales have
been found along with the rude implements which
were used by our ancestors. A few years ago, a whale
was discovered near Gargunnock, the brain of which, in
all probability, had been extracted for food, the skull
having been broken open at the thinnest part. Hard
by was found the implement which had evidently been
used for this pui'pose. A comparison of the marks on the
face of the implement with those on the skull showed
that they perfectly agreed. Kitchen middens are found
at various places along the base of the cliff forming the
inner margin of this terrace. The bed of oyster shells
referred to by M'Laren as occurring at Seafield is in all
probabilit}' of this nature. It is rather a remarkable
fact that the brick clays belonging to this beach have a
fetid odour o'W'ing to the amount of animal and vegetable
matter they contain. At the head of the Leith Links
there are several dunes of blown sand which date back
to the time when the sea rolled inwards on this beach.
In the course of the excavation of its present channel,
the Water of Leith has formed several alluvial terraces
which belong to post-glacial and recent times, the high-
est, of coiu'se, being the oldest. The successive ter-
races are best developed where the river has cut through
the deposits of the 100 feet sea beach. The lower por-
tion of the "Warriston Cemetery occupies one of these
higher terraces. In connection with this subject it is
interesting to note the occurrence of a bmied river
channel near Coltbridge, which was proved by a series
of bores put down by ilr Jeffrey. One bore, which was
sunk to the S of the brewery, passed through 60 feet
of superficial deposits before reaching the sandstones
and shales. In a second bore, a short distance to the N,
72 feet of drift were pierced when a dyke of igneous rock
was reached. A few yards further X a third bore was
put do\\'n through 200 feet of superficial deposits before
reaching the solid rock. As the surface of the gi'ound
at that locality is only about 150 feet above the sea, it
is evident that the bottom of this old channel must be
considerably below the present datum-line. This is
evidently one of those buried river-channels, of which
there are several examples on the E coast of Scotland
and England, pointing to a considerable elevation of
the land, probably in pre-glacial times.
Edinburgh formerly possessed several sheets of water
which have now disappeared. The hollow along which
the Korth British liailway passes was occupied by a
chain of lochs. The Nor' Loch, to the N of the
Castle, was celebrated as the place where the witches
passed through their ordeal. The Grassmarket and the
Cowgate overlie the alluvium of an ancient loch, the
traces of which are now almost obliterated. In the
Queen's Park, the place known as the King's Mire was
covered by a sheet of water. The Meadows occupy the
site of the Borough Loch, the shell marl being occa-
sionally exposed in the drains there, varying in thick-
ness from a few inches to 6 feet. Several species of
Limiicca, Planorhis, Cijdas, and Valvata have been
obtained from this deposit, along with a few valves of
Entomostraca. The skull and horns of the Cervus
Ele2)has have also been disinterred from the alluvial
deposits of the Meadows. This interesting relic is now
preserved in the Museum of the Antiquarian Society in
Edinburgh. A large sheet of water formerly extended
from Corstorphine to Gorgie and Coltbridge, which has
been drained by the gorge of the "Water of Leith. An
interesting notice occuis in the Scotsman of 13 April
EDINBURGH
1833, with reference to the occurrence of a considerable
depth of moss in the old town. In the course of the
excavations of the new court buildings in Parliament
Square, a remnant of the City Wall, erected in 1450,
was laid bare ; and in the mossy soil below it, about 3
feet under the foundation, a number of entire skeletons
were found, showing that the ground had been used for
burial before the wall was built. In some places the
moss was 15 feet deep.
Though the physical features of Edinburgh were
mainly determined in pre-glacial times, there can be
little doubt that they were largely modified during the
glacial period. Those remarkable features of ' crag and
tail,' which are well displayed on the Castle rock, tlie
Calton Hill, Salisbury Crags, and Arthur's Seat, were
partly developed during the great extension of the ice.
In the foregoing examples the projecting crags or bosses
of rock face the "\V, which is the direction from which
the ice came ; while the ridge or ' tail ' on the lee side
slopes gently towards the E. As the ice impinged on
these projecting masses, the lower portion of the sheet
would be deflected and compelled to move round the
sides, while the higher portion would overflow the es-
carpments. One can readily understand that the erosion
would necessarily be greatest at the base and round the
sides of the crags. The Xor' Loch and the Grassmarket
Loch were probably rock basins due to this cause. The
hollow at the ileadows may likewise be of glacial origin.
At that locality the strike of the beds nearly coincides
with the direction of the ice-flow ; and as the red sand-
stones crop out to the S in Warreuder Park, it is pro-
bable that they are overlaid by softer strata occupying
the site of the Meadows, which would be more readily
excavated by the ice. And so also the hollow at Mor-
ningside must have been deepened by the pressure of
the ice escaping round the N end of Blackford Hill.
Indeed it is rather remarkable that the hollows and
ancient lochs throughout Edinburgh are found in those
places where they ought theoretically to occur, on the
supposition that the district was glaciated by an ice
sheet moving in an EXE direction.
Botany. — The flora within a radius of twenty-five
miles around the city of Edinburgh is most varied and
extensive. From the nature of the soil, elevation, and
exposure, this might be expected. There are the shores
of the Firth of Forth and many fresh-water rivers —
there are extensive ranges of hills — there are plains,
woods, valleys, moors, and cultivated lands, all of
which have their peculiar native vegetable productions.
There has been recently enumerated 410 genera, 1012
species, and 80 varieties of flowering plants. This
number, however, embraces several plants not indi-
genous, but which have escaped from cultivation, and
have become naturalised in diflerent localities. Of
Ferns and their allies there are 18 genera and 43 species
and varieties. These include the forked sideenwort,
the alternate spleenwort, tlie filmy fern, the sea spleen-
wort, the adder's tongue, the moonwort fern, etc.
There are 520 species and varieties of mosses, liver-
worts, lichens, and charas. The Firth of Forth is rich
in seaweeds (Algce), but their numbers have not recently
been calculated. The forms of fungi, desmids, and di-
atoms are innumerable. Woodl'orde first published
a catalogue of plants found around Edinburgh ; and
about the same time Dr Grcville issued his Flora
Edincnsis, containing descriptions of the flowering
and flowerless plants met with within ten miles of the
city. This was an excellent book, and is still (1882) a
work of reference. The last publication on the botany
was that of Balfour and Sadler in 1571, entitled The
Flora of Edinlunjh, intended for the use of students
attending the Botanical Classes. In 1761, when Dr
John Hope was appointed professor of botany, he
encouraged his pupils to study and collect the wild
plants in the neighbourhood of Edinburgli, and offered
a medal annually for the best collection ol' dried plants.
The medal was gained on one occasion by Sir James
Edward Smith. Tlie practice of giving a medal has
been continued by all the succeeding professors.
473
EDINBURGH
Local Advantages. — The situaHon of Edinburgli is
scarcely less subservient to advantage than its scenery
is replete with beauty. The sloping inclination of tlie
ground on all hands, with its close neighbourhood to
the sea, is favourable to drainage, and affords facilities
for cleanliness. The elevation' of the hills, with the
spacious natural funnels that intervene, is provocative
of a constant stir in the air, and contributes to a healthy
ventilation. The comparative vicinity of coal fields and
of seaports, with the easy access there is to these, offers
ready facilities for manufacture and commerce, such as
might well tempt capitalists to essay here enterprises
which have long been successfully prosecuted in towns
far less favourably situated, such as Dunfermline,
Hawick, and even Manchester, Leeds, and Sheffield,
not to say Birmingham, and others which might be
mentioned. As it is, the resources it possesses for
a generous education, its varied natural stores, its
splendid scenery, its historical associations, native to
itself and as the capital of the country, as well as its
institutions, expressly established, thoroughly equipped,
and in active operation for this end, are such as to
enable Edinburgh to compete with any other city as a
seat of learning. If we add to these its tranquil air and
its social atmosphere, as well as its museums, libraries,
and schools of arts, there are few places better fitted for
the cultivation of those studies which are best prose-
cuted awaj"- from the hum of busy labour, and the hurry
and bustle of merely commercial life. ' Kesidence in Edin-
burgh,' remarks Alexander Smith, 'is an education in
itself. Of all British cities — Weimar-like in its intel-
lectual and assthetic leanings, Florence-like in its free-
dom from the stains of trade, and more than Florence-
like in its beauty — it is the one best suited for the con-
duct of a lettered life. The city, as an entity, does not
stimulate like London ; the present moment is not nearly
so intense ; life does not roar and chafe — it murmurs
only ; and this interest of the hour, mingled with some-
thing of the quietude of distance and the past — which
is the spiritual atmosphere of the cit}' — is the most
favourable of all conditions for intellectual work or in-
tellectual enjoyment.' 'What the tour of Europe was
necessary to see elsewhere,' says Sir David Wilkie, 'I
now find congregated in this one city. Here are alike
the beauties of Prague and of Salzburg ; here are the
romantic sites of Orvietto and Tivoli ; and here is all
the magnificence of the admired bays of Genoa and
Naples ; here, indeed, to the poet's fancy, may be found
realised the Roman Capitol and the Grecian Acropolis. '
And, says Mr Hallam : —
' Even thus, methinks, a city reared should bo,
Yea, an imperial citj', that mii^lit hold
Five times a hundred noble towns in fee,
And either with their might of Babel old
Or the rich Roman pomp of Empery,
Might stand compare, highest in arts enrolled,
Highest in arms, brave tenement for the free,
Who never crouch to thrones, or sin for gold.
Thus should her towers be raised, with vicinage
Of clear bold hills, that curve her very streets,
As if to vindicate 'mid choicest seats
Of art, abiding Nature's majesty, —
And the broad sea beyond, in calm or rage,
Chainless alike, and teaching liberty.'
The walks and shrubberies and public gardens, also,
are rich in objects of natural interest. Robinias, lirio-
dendrons, auracarias, and some other rare ligneous plants
which are as familiar here as oaks and elms are elsewhere,
bespeak the regard of the curious in the matter of trees ;
while rare flowering plants and shrubs, continually under
the eye, render it in a measure familiar with the pro-
ductions of foreign climes.
ClimoJe. — The climate of Edinburgh is much the same
as that all over the E coast of Scotland, but rather colder
than in the low-lying environs. Some spots in the cit}',
as compared with others — for example, Holyrood as
compared with the Castle, and Newington as compared
wth Broughton — are sheltered and warm. The Astro-
nomer Royal states that 'the average mean annual
temperature about the observatory on the Calton Hill
is approximately 46 '0 Fahr. ; the annual rainfall, 24 "0
474
EDINBURGH
inches yearly. The strength and quantity of the wind
on and about the site are excessive, almost all through
the year, and whatever quarter the winds blows from.'
Easterly winds prevail in April and May, sometimes
also in March; and are usually cold and dry, often
very chilling, and occasionally accompanied by in-
jurious fogs called hnars. Westerly and south-westerly
winds prevail in all tlio other months, and are usually
genial, but often highly charged with moisture. In
one year, which ju'oliably was not far from being an
average one, northerly winds blew 10 days, north-
easterly winds 18 days, easterly winds 101| days,
south-easterly winds 14 days, southerly winds 42 days,
south-westerly winds 30i days, westerly winds 138
daj^s, north-westerly winds 11 days. Thunder-storms
come almost invariably from the S, and occur mostly
in the latter part of May and throughout June ; but
in summer, when easterly or northerly winds prevail,
thunderstorms rarely occur near the city ; these spend
their force considerably to the W or to the N. The
salubrity of the climate, or the aggregate effect of it
upon health and life, will afterwards be .shown in a
section on the related statistics.
The City JValls. — A very ancient wall ran northward
from the foot of the Castle esplanade to the Nor' Loch,
and another probably from the E end of the Nor'
Loch to the foot of Leith Wynd ; and these, with the
intermediate reach of the Nor' Loch, and with a con-
tinuous range of houses from the foot of Leith Wynd to
the head of Canongate or foot of High Street, defended
the ancient city on its northern or most assailable side.
A wall, entirely surrounding the old city, was con-
structed in 1450, under authority from James II., and
by means of a tax on the inhabitants. This commenced
with a small fortress at the NE base of the Castle rock ;
thence ran eastward, along the S side of the Nor' Loch,
till nearly opposite the foot of the Castle esplanade ;
it then proceeded in a southerly direction till it gained
the summit of the hill, where it was intersected by a
gateway, communicating between the Castle and the
town ; thence it ran obliquely down the hill, toward
the SE, till it arrived at the first turn in the descent of
the West Bow, and there was intersected by a gateway,
called the Upper Bow Port ; it thence proceeded nearly
due eastward, along the face of the ridge between High
Street and Cowgate, till it struck Gray's Close or Mint
Close ; thence went north-eastward till it touched the
foot of High Street, a little AV of the head of Leith
Wynd, and there was intersected by a gateway, com-
municating between the city and Canongate ; it thance
went down the W side of Leith Wynd to the valley ;
and then proceeded westward, along the S side of the
Nor' Loch, to a junction with its commencement at the
NE base of the Castle rock. The ancient city was thus
confined to very narrow limits ; consisted simply of
Castle Hill, Lawnmarket, and High Street, with the
closes or alleys leading from them ; and was dependent
for further extension, not on extending its buildings
along the surface, but on raising them up in the air.
An extension-wall, chiefly for enclosing suburbs which
had arisen on the S, was erected in 1513. This began
at the SE base of the Castle rock ; thence extended, in
a south-easterly direction, to the W end of Grassmarkot,
where it was intersected by a gateway, called the West
Port ; thence ascended part of the eminence flanking
the S side of Grassmarket, turned eastward, and went
along the S side of what is now the park of Ileriot's
Hospital ; it next, on approaching Bristo Street, turned
northward, and traversed the eastern part of what is
now the Greyfriars' Cemetery ; it then trended eastward,
passed the lines of Bristo Street and Potterrow, and was
intersected on these lines by gateways, called Bristo
Port and Potterrow Port ; next went southward for a
few yards from Potterrow Port, and then, making an
abrujit turn, proceeded along the S side of the site of
the ('ollc!,'e and the N side of what is now Drummond
Street, till it touched the Pleasance, where it deflected
almost at a right angle to the N ; across Cowgate, and
up the W side of St Mary's Wynd : and was intersected
EDINBURGH
in tliat reach, liy two gateways called Cowgate Port and
St Mary Wynd Port ; terminating at the point of the
older wall near the junction of High Street and Canon-
gate. Considerable portions of this wall, especially at
the N" side of Drunimond Street and at the W side of
the N end of the Pleasance, still exist ; and a portion,
long hid out of view and forgotten, was brought to light
in 1869 by the clearing away of houses in Argyle Square
for extension of the Indiistrial Museum.
The gateway in the wall of 1450 at the foot of High
Street stood about 50 yards W of the line of St Mary's
Wynd and Leith "Wynd, but it was found to occupy a
position unfavourable to defence. A second gateway,
in lieu of that, was erected in 1571 by the partisans of
Queen ilary, on a line with St Mary's Wynd and Leith
Wynd, and was so flanked as to possess considerable
military strength. A third gateway supplemented the
second in 1606, and occupied the same site. It is sup-
posed to have been constructed on the model of one of
the ancient gates of Paris, and was by far the most
important of all the gates of the city. It figured con-
spicuously and picturesquely in the scenery of High
Street ; and became famous in history in connection
with a bill (which was not passed), introduced into the
British parliament, in consequence of the indignation
excited by the Porteous mob, to have it razed to the
gi'ound. It extended quite across the thoroughfare,
from house-line to house-line, and comprised a main
body, of house-like structure, two stories high, crowned
with battlements. It was pierced with a carriage arch-
way to the height of the lowest story, and with a wicket
for pedestrians to the S of the carriage archway ; had,
on its flanks, massive round towers, with sharp conical
roofs ; and was surmounted, above the carriage arch-
way, by a four-story square tower, bearing aloft a taper-
ing hexagonal s]iire. This pile was a principal ornament
of the city, and, had it been allowed to stand, would
have been one of the grandest relics of olden times ; but,
partly in consequence of an act of parliament which pro-
scribed the city walls of London, partly on the pretext of
obstructing the thoroughfare, it was taken down in 1764.
Small extensions of the wall of 1450, in Leith Wynd
and at the foot of Halkerston's Wynd, were erected in
1540 and 1560, that in Leith Wynd having a gateway
called Leith Wynd Port, with a wicket at its side
giving access to Trinity College Church. A small ex-
tension of the wall of 1513, at the W side of the eminence
flanking the S side of Grassmarket, was erected in 1618,
part of which still forms the western boundary of the
grounds of Heriot's Hospital. The only extant vestige
of the wall of 1450 is the fragment of a tower, on the
spot where the wall commenced at the XE base of the
Castle rock, bearing the name of Wallace's tower, ori-
ginally or properly Well-house tower ; and, in 1872,
this was proposed to be so far rebuilt or restored as to
represent again the original tower structure. The wall
of 1450 was constructed in consequence of panic after
the battle of Sark ; and that of 1513 after the battle of
Flodden ; but these do not seem to have ever had much
military strength ; and were improved, from time to
time, at periods of alarm, by additions to their thick-
ness and their height, and by the erection of flanking
towers and bulwarks. Even in their best condition,
however, they ofl"ered no great resistance to the arts of
modern warfare ; and, in 1745, when they ought to have
prevented the entrance or entirely arrested the progress
of the Jacobite army, the}' proved to be of little or
no use. Thenceforth they were looked upon only as
obstructions to the thoroughfares ; and, during the
spirited period of the civic modem extension, were
sweepingly removed. (See P. Xeill's Notes relative to
the fortified Walls of Edinburgh. Edinb. 1829.)
Extent. — Edinburgh, owing to the open spaces in-
eluded \vithin it, occupies a larger area than from the
height of the houses we may be apt to imagine. From
Canonmills Bridge on the X to Grange Road on the
S, it measures geograj)hically 3860 yards ; from Hay-
market on the W to Pilrig Street on the E, it measures
3660 yards ; and these points indicate the sides of a
EDINBURGH
rectangle, the area of which, with some comparatively
unimportant exceptions, is all included in the towa. But
outside the area of this rectangle, on each of the four sides,
are wings more or less extensive, which, if included in
the city's measurements, would add considerably to both
the extreme length and breadth. The excepted spaces
^nthin the rectangle lie mostly in the very heart of the
city, and either contain very few edifices or are entirely
unbuilt upon. The area of Princes Street Gardens and
the Castle rock, which extends about 900 yards from E to
W, and between 200 and 270 yards from N to S, if we ex-
cept the structures of the Castle and those on the ilound,
has scarcely any buildings. The area of Queen Street
Gardens measures 850 yards by 130 ; the aggregate area
of other public or conjoint-proprietary gardens measures
fully more ; and these are entirely without edifices.
The limits we have given are those of the city re-
garded as a town. Other limits, defining jurisdictions
of various kinds, ancient and modern, differ widely from
these and from one another ; some of them, too, are
either of no interest or of such intricacy as to be only
perplexing ; and only four of them are either important
enough to challenge notice or sufliciently clear to be
easily understood. These four define the city in suc-
cessive concentric areas — first, the ancient royalty, nearly
identical with the space formerly enclosed by the Old
Town walls ; second, the city proper, comprising both
the ancient royalty and an extended royalty ; third, the
county of the city, comprising all in the former aiid
considerable tracts beyond ; fourth, the parliamentary
burgh, comprehending the county of the city and a
large surrounding district, and forming altogether an
irregiilar polygon of nearly 10 miles in circumference,
with St Giles' Church in the centre. The parliamentary
burgh is defined by a line drawn from a point on the
Leith and Queensferry Road, 400 yards W of the Inver-
leith Road at Goldenacre, straight to the north-western
corner of John Watson's Hospital ; thence straight to
the second stone bridge on the Union Canal ; thence
straight to the Jordan or Pow Burn at the enclosure of
the Momingside Lunatic Asylum ; thence down that
burn to a point on it 150 j-ards below the transit of the
Carlisle Road ; thence straight to the summit of Arthur's
Seat ; thence straight to the influx of a burn at the W
side of Lochend Loch ; thence straight to the junction of
Pilrig Street and Leith Walk ; thence along Pilrig Street
and Bonnington Road to the Leith and Queensferry Road;
thence along that road to the point first described.
Thoroughfares. — The plan, contour, and setting of the
city, vryt\\ the directions and intersections of the streets,
and the positions of the various places of interest cannot
be clearly defined in words ; for an idea of all this the
reader must be referred to the accompanying map.
What we have to say of the prominent objects in the
city and its neighbourhood, such as the Castle, Holv-
rood, and the principal buildings and institutions, will
fall to be said further on. Meanwhile, we propose to
sketch the leading thoroughfares, and as we traverse
them indicate such objects of interest as attract atten-
tion and will repay regard.
The line of street, which, beginning with the head of
the Canongate, ascends upwards along the ridge of the
central hill to the esplanade in front of the Castle,
forms the main portion of the ancient city, and beai-s,
as you go westwards, successively the names of the
Netherbow, the High Street, the Lawnmarket, and the
Castle Hill. This line of street is intersected by two
main thoroughfares running N and S, as well as by
other streets of less extension, and an array of lanes and
closes which are of ancient date, but are gradually dis-
appearing to make way for modern improvements. The
Netherbow, at the lower extremity, is a comparatively
short and narrow section of the whole ; and it was so
called from a massive battlcmented pile, surmounted
by a tower and steeple, whicii stood here and formed, by
its arched gateway, for centuries the outlet from the
city on the E. The High Street, to which it was
originally the approach from that quarter, is 470
yards in' length, and very spacious, and expands to-
475
EDINBURGH
wards its upper extremity into an area in front of
the Parliament House occupied by St Giles' Till the
latter part of last century it had no lateral openings
except by the vrjTids or closes referred to, and presented
till that time the appearance of a long, wide, compact
street of high-piled houses, the architecture of which
belonged to several successive epochs, and exhibited ele-
ments that had an imposing and picturesque effect. A
few of the older houses still preserved enable us to con-
ceive somewhat of the ancient aspect of the street, and
how it must have looked when it was the scene in the
olden time of events affecting not only the city but the
whole country from end to end. The Lawnmarket,
which is about 230 yards in length, and possesses
similar features of both architectiiral and historic in-
terest, derived its name from the stalls and booths
which used to be erected here, especially on market-
days, for the sale of 'linen.' It communicated with
the High Street, so late as 1817, bj' means of a lane
on the S, for foot-passengers, and a narrow carriage-way
on the K, of the Luckenbooths, which extended along
the street to the S of St Giles', and it was blocked at its
W end till 1S22 by a public weigh-house. Till the open-
ing of Bank Street on the N in 1798, it had no lateral
outlets except the closes to right and left, and a quaint
old street, called the West Bow, which descended west-
ward in steep corkscrew fashion at its SW corner into
the Grassmarket under the S of the Castle. The Castle
Hill extends beyond the Lawnmarket as far as the es-
planade of the Castle ; it is about 150 j'ards long, and is
more contracted in width. It was once a patrician
quarter of the city, but a great part of it has been
cleared away for modern structures and a thoroughfare
westward by the S side of the Castle. The upper end
of it was in early times a place of public execution for
heretics, witches, traitors, and common criminals.
The old closes and small courts, not yet abolished,
that branch off fi'om this entire line of street, still retain,
though for most part in a sadly faded and broken down
condition, many of the houses once inhabited by dis-
tinguished families and associated ■with the names of
people who played an illustrious part in the past history
of the city and country. Tweeddale Court, No. 10
Netherbow, contains what was once the town mansion
of the noble family of Tweeddale, and in the after-times
the head office of the British Linen Company's Bank,
but what is now the publishing establishment of Oliver
and Boyd. The alley which leads to this court was in
1806 the scene of a mysterious murder, whereby a porter
of the bank of the name of Begbie, after being stabbed to
the heart, was robbed of £4932, which he was conveying
to the main office from a sub-office in Leith. Suspicion
attached to a jjrofessional thief from London, who was
afterwards arraigned and brought to justice for another
ofience. Nearly opposite to Tweeddale Court stands John
Knox's House, a good example of the more ancient pic-
turesque and curiously gabled houses of the Old Town.
Along the lintel of the ground floor, in old spelling, is
the inscription, ' Love God above all, and your neigh-
bour as yourself;' whilst at the corner there is an effigy
of what, from a frame there was once round it, was sup-
posed to represent the reformer preaching, but was after-
wards found, when the frame was removed, to be Ikloses
receiving the ten commandments from the Lord, a more
likely symbol for the house of the reformer than any
effigies of himself. Hyndford's Close, at No. 50 High
Street, contained the ancient mansion of the Earls of
Hyndford, which was afterwards occupied by Sir Walter
Scott's maternal grandfather, and a frequent resort of
Sir Walter when a boy. It was in this close the famous
Duchess of Gordon and her sister stayed in their romp-
ing girlhood. Here, too, lived Lady Anne Bernard,
the authoress of the ballad of ' Auld Robin Gray. ' South
Gray's Close, at No. 56, contains the old town mansion
of the Earls of Selkirk and Stirling, which is now the
residence of the priests of St Patrick's Pioman Catholic
church ; and it leads down to Elphinstone's Court, where
were the residences of Sir James Elphinstone and Lord
Loughborough among others ; and to Mint Court, the
476
EDINBURGH
site of the national mint, which was erected in 1574,
and the residences of Dr CuUen, Lord Hailes, Lord
Belhaven, the Countess of Stair, Doughs of Cavers, and
the famous Earl of Argyll, all of the latter part of the
17th century. Chalmers' Close, at No. 81, contained the
mansion of the ancestors of the Earls of Hopetoun and
the residence of Lord Jeffrey's grandfather, often fre-
quented by Lord Jeffrey in his boyhood. Paisley's Close,
at No. 101, was entered through a large loft)' house of
1612, which contained the shop of Sir William Fettes,
the founder of Fettes College, and which, on a night in
November 1861, suddenly fell, burying 23 persons in
its ruins. Todrick's Wynd, nearly opposite Paisley
Close, was the scene, in 1590, of a grand banquet given
by the city magistrates to the Danish nobles who accom-
panied the queen of James VI. to Scotland. Black-
friars' WjTid, at No. 96, now superseded by Blackfriars
Street, took its name from a Blackfriars' Monastery
which stood on the slope facing its S end. It was, for
more than five centm'ies, a highly aristocratic quarter,
and contained residences of bishops, archbishops, car-
dinals, nobles, and princes. This wynd is specially
distinguished as the site of a palace of Cardinal Beaton,
which stood at its foot ; it had an ancient church, which
continued to be used till about 1835 as a Roman Catholic
chapel and an Episcopalian chm"ch, long attended by a
fashionable and wealthy congregation. It has witnessed
many scenes of political intrigue and conflicts of faction.
Strichen's Close, at No. 104, contains what was the
town mansion of the abbots of Alelrose, which was
afterwards occupied by Sir George Mackenzie, ' the
bluidy Mackenzie ' of persecuting fame. Dickson's
Close, at No. 118, contained the to\vn mansion of the
the Halliburtons, and also the residence of ' the Scot-
tish Hogarth,' David Allan. Bishop's Close, at No. 129,
took its name from containing the town mansion of
Archbishop Spottiswood, which was afterwards occu-
pied by Ladj' Jane Douglas ; it contained also the man-
sion of the first Lord President Dundas, and was the
birthplace of the first Viscount Melville. Carrubber's
Close, at No. 135, contained, till a few years ago, a very
old Episcopalian church, then the oldest in Scotland,
and the only one in the S of Scotland that had been
duly consecrated ; and a house built by Allan Ramsay in
1736 for a theatre, which, however, as the speculation
failed, the city authorities being adverse, was soon
turned to other uses, and afterwards in its time ' pla3'ed
many parts,' being used successively as a scientific
lecture-room, a Rowite chapel, and a revival meeting-
house. It contained also the house of Sir William
Forbes, as also that of Captain Jlatthew Henderson,
much frequented by the poet Burns, and the ori-
ginal workshop of James Ballantyne, the author of the
Gahcrlunzies Wallet. Most of these have now been
swept away in connection with city improvements to
form part of the roadway of Jeffrey Street. No. 153
was Allan Ramsay's house, an ancient timber-fronted
tenement ; in the first floor was his first publishing
establishment, ami in the second his dwelling-house.
Niddry's Wynd, opposite Allan Ramsay's house, con-
tained a temporary residence of James VI. and his queen
in 1591, and a famous chapel of 1505, founded by the
Countess of Ross, and known as St Mary's Chapel ; but
this wynd was nearly all rebuilt at the constructing of
the South Bridge in 1785-88, and is now called Niddry
Street. Halkerston's Wjmd, at No. 163, served in
ancient times as an outlet from the city, by way of a
gate at its foot and a low narrow mound across the
Nor' Loch, and was long an important thoroughfare ;
but now it scarcely possesses a vestige of what it was.
North Bridge and South Bridge, jointly forming the
great thoroughfare which intersects High Street through
its middle, will be noticed in a subsequent paragraph.
Cap and Feather Close stood on part of the gi-ound now
occupied by North Bridge ; is still represented by some
of the houses on the E of the Bridge line ; and was
the birthplace of the poet Fergusson. !Marlin's Wynd
stood on part of the ground now occupied by South
Bridge and adjoining the Tron Church ; it look its
EDINBURGH
name from a Frenrhman of tlie 16th oentury who
first paved the High Street, and was entered through
a large archway or pend, in a stately block of houses
fronted with an arcade-piazza. Hunter Square, a small
quadrangle partly occupied by the Tron Church at
the W corner of High Street and South Bridge, and
Blair Street, a short thoroughfare descending from the
SW corner of that quadrangle, were formed when the
South Bridge was being constructed, and took their
names from Sir Hunter Blair. Kenned3''s Close stood on
the site of Hunter Square, and it was here the famous
George Buchanan died. Here, on his deathbed, find-
ing that the money he had was too little to pay the
expense of his funeral, he ordered it to be distributed
among his poor neighbours, adding that his to^vnsfolk
might bury or not bury his bones as it seemed good to
them. These were interred next day in the Grey friars'
Churchyard at the public charges. Milne Square, at No.
173 High Street, immediately W of North Bridge, was
built in 1689 by the architect Robert Milne ; it is entered,
from the street, by an archway, and was long an aristo-
cratic quarter ; two flats of it, now on the line of Cock-
burn Street, were occupied by Charles Erskine of Tin-
wald. Lord Justice-Clerk, who died in 1763. Cockburn
Street was formed in 1859, and will be noticed further
on. Covenant Close, at No. 162 High Street, contains
an ancient edifice, in which the National Covenant was
signed in 1638, and which has three crow-stepped
gables figuring curiously in close views from the S. Old
Assembly Close, at No. 172, contained the City Assembly
Rooms from 1720 till 1726, as it did previously the man-
sion of Lord Durie, the hero of the ballad of Christie's
Will. Fishmarket Close, at No. 190, contained the resi-
dences of George Heriot, and the elder Lord President
Dundas, of convivial celebrity. Fleshmarket Close, at No.
199, was long the residence of Henry Dundas, afterwards
Viscount Melville, and is now intersected by Cockburn
Street. Stamp Office Close, at No. 221, contained the
town mansion of the ninth Earl of Eglintoun, which
afterwards became, as a tavern, a famous rendezvous for
men of rank and fashion ; it was used by the Earl of
Leven, as Lord High Commissioner, for his levees during
the sittings of the General Assembly. Anchor Close, at
No. 213, contained the residence of Lord Provost
Drummond and a famous printing office established by
Smellie, author of the Philosojjhy of Natural History,
and it retains some architectural carvings indicative
of its importance in times bygone. Writers' Court, at
No. 315, contained the original library of the Writers
to the Signet, and still boasts of containing, in decayed
condition, the meeting-place of the Mirror Club, famous
for the ' high jinks ' described in Sir Walter Scott's Guy
Ma.nnering. Warriston Close, at No. 323, contained
the residences of Sir George Urquhart, Sir Archibald
Johnston, and other distinguished persons ; and was
long one of the most important alleys of the city ; but
now possesses scarcely any trace of its ancient features.
Roxburgh Close, at No. 341, took its name from con-
taining the town mansion of the Earls of Roxburgh.
Advocates' Close, at No. 357, contained the residences
of Lord Westhall, Lord Advocate Stewart, and other
distinguished lawyers, and figures in connection with
Andrew Crosbie, as the jirototype of 'Councillor Pleydell,'
in Sir Walter Scott's Guy Mannering. Parliament
Square, largely occupied on its N side by St Giles'
Church, is of comparatively small extent, and occupies
part of an area which was a public cemetery from very
early times till the end of the 16th century. It contains,
at or near a spot now marked with a small stone lettered
I. K., what is presumed to be the grave of John Knox;
was long called the Parliament Close ; derived its name
from the Scottish Parliament, which was held there ;
and is occupied entirely with pul)lic buildings. Here
stands an ef|uestrian statue of Charles IL erected in
1685 on a spot previously selected for a monument to
Oliver Cromwell. County Square, opening narrowly
trom the NW of Parliament Square, and flanked on the
N by the open thoroughfare of Lawnmarket, is also
of comparatively small extent ; it occupies the site of
EDINBURGH
three closes which had fallen into ruins, and takes its
name from being flanked on the W by the County Hall.
It was formerly the place where were erected the hustings
in connection with elections of members of parliament
for the city and county. A heart formed of causeway
stones at its NE corner marks the site of the Old Tol-
booth, 'the Heart of Midlothian.' Dunbar's Close, at
No. 413 La^vnmarket, opposite the County Hall, received
its name from being the headquarters of Cromwell's army
after the battle of Dunbar, and adjoins a large handsome
house to the N, said to have been occupied by the Pro-
tector himself. Libberton's Wynd, now an extinct alley
southward from Lawiimarket, between the rear of the
County Hall and the roadway of George IV. Bridge,
figures in extant documents so early as the year 1477.
It was a principal thoroughfare for pedestrians to the
southern outskirts ; contained a famous tavern, fre-
quented by poets, artists, antiquaries, advocates, and
judges throughout the latter part of last century, and
became so noted for carousings by Robert Burns and
his admirers as to be eventually called Burns' Tavern.
The head of this close, from 1817, when the Old Tol-
booth was demolished, till the date of the last public
execution, was the place where the gibbet was erected,
the spot being now indicated by three reversed stones
in the causeway.
Bank Street and George IV. Bridge, forming the
modern carriage thoroughfare across Lawnmarket, will
be afterwards noticed. Old Bank Close, off' the S side
of Lawnmarket, on ground now occupied by the
]iavement of Melbourne Place at the N end of
George IV. Bridge, contained a house of 1588, long
occui>ied by the Bank of Scotland, an ancient large
edifice belonging to Cambuskenneth Abbey, and a
house of 1569, built on the ruins of the Cambusken-
neth one, owned for some time by the Crown for the
accommodation of state prisoners and ambassadors, and
inhabited afterwards successively by Sir Thomas Hope,
the Lord President, Sir George Lockhart, and other
judges. Brodie's Close, on the S of Lawnmarket, just
above Melbourne Place, contained the Roman Eagle
Hall, notable for its masonic meetings in Burns' time,
which were at length dissolved on account of the dis-
grace which their intemperate proceedings brought on
the craft. In it is still shown in the front tenement
the house of the notorious Brodie. Riddle's Close, at
No. 322, was inhabited by Provost Sir John Smith, by
Bailie ]\lacmoran, who entertained at his table here
James VI. and Queen Anne of Denmark ; by David
Hume, who WTote here part of his History of England ;
and by Lord Royston, Sir Roderick Mackenzie, and
several other distinguished persons. Lady Stair's Close,
which was the chief thoroughfare for foot passengers to
the New Town prior to the opening of Bank Street, at
No. 447, contains the house where the fashionable
society of the city was long presided over by the
Dowager Countess of Stair, whose subsequent historj-,
as Viscountess Primrose, forms the groundwork of Sir
Walter Scott's story of My Aunt Margaret's Mirror.
Baxter's Close, at No. 469, contains the house in which
the poet Burns lodged in the winter of 1786-87, paying
Is. 6d. a week for share of a poor lodging and a chaff'
bed with a Mauchline friend, and a house which be-
longed to the Countess of Elgin, the governess of the
Princess Charlotte. James' Court, at No. 501, was built
in 1727 as an aristocratic quarter, superseding several
ancient closes. It contained the abodes of judges,
nobles, and ecclesiastical dignitaries. It extends, as a
sort of terrace, formed on a rapid slope overlooking the
New Town, and presents a rear front of nine stories,
which are seen there towering stupenilously, and com-
mand a magnificent view to the N. Its western half
contained, irom 1762 till 1771, the house of David
Hume, and also the residence of James Boswell, tlie bio-
grapher of Dr Johnson, who stayed here in 1773 as he
I)assed through the city on his famous Scottish tour.
It was destroyed by fire in 1857 ; Init is now nqdaced
by lofty picturesque buildings in florid oUl Scottish l!aro-
nial style. Milne's Court, at No. 51 7, was partly built in
" 477
EDINBURGH
EDINBURGH
1690 by the architect who constructed Milne Square ;
but retains, on its W side, houses of previous periods,
one of tliese tlie town mansion of Sir John Harper of
Carabusnethan, and anotlier that of the lairds of Comis-
ton. The West Bow, descending sinuously first south-
ward and then south-westward from tlie upper end of
Lawnmarket, took its name from a bow or arch in the old
town wall, wliich formed the western outlet from the
cit}'. It was probably the earliest approach to the city
while as yet it was confined to a few houses within and
around the Castle, and was earl}' built upon, down both
its sides, by densely-packed, timber-fronted tenements,
and served, narrow, winding, steep, and rugged as it
was, till the latter part of last century, as the carriage
ogress from the city to all jdaces in the W. It witnessed
the corteges of at least six monarchs, and was a busy place
of shops and workshops, as well as traffic, even in the
memory of people still alive ; and contained originally
the workshops of tlie higher class of artisans, tenements
of the Knights Templars surmounted by crosses, the
house of the re})uted wizard Major Weir, the city
Assembly Rooms from 1602 till 1720, and the provost's
mansion in which Prince Charles Edward was enter-
tained in 1745 ; but about 1830 it underwent such total
alteration as, except in a house or two at the top and
bottom, to be no longer recognisable by those who knew
it before the work of demolition began. Demolitions
of recent date, and going on just now, have extin-
guished all traces at the top. The Castle Hill, with
closet and small courts leading from it, was long, as
already noted, a highly aristocratic quarter ; it con-
tained a palace of the Queen Regent, Mary of Guise,
and a mansion of the Marquis of Argyll ; and still con-
tains houses which were once inhabited by such notables
as the Dukes of Gordon, the Earls of Lennox, the Earls
of Cassillis, the Earl of Dumfries, Dowager Countess of
Hyndford, Lord Sempill, Lord Rockville, Lady Eliza-
beth Howard, Lord Holyroodhouse, and General Sir
David Baird. Ramsay Lane, descending northward
from the N side of Castle Hill, contained the residence
of the 'Laird o' Cockpen,' one of the Rarasays of Dal-
housie, and leads to a garden off its AV side, containing
what was Allan Ramsay's House, a curious octagonal
edifice built by the poet himself, enlarged by his son,
afterwards owned by the late Lord Murray, and vulgarly
known in the poet's lifetime as the ' Goose Pie.' On tlie
E side of Ramsay Lane stands the Original Ragged
School, founded by Dr Guthrie.
Canonr/ate. — Caiioiigate was originally a suburb of the
city, extending eastward from the Netherbow to Holy-
rood. It sprang up in connection with the Abbey ;
was founded in the time of David I. by its canons or
monks, and was so called as forming the approach to the
Abbey from the city and Castle. A burgh of regality
almost from its birth, it received charters of incoriDora-
tion or burgh privileges in succession from David I.,
Robert I., and Robert II. ; and tlie abbots of Holyrood,
being made superiors of the burgh, are said to have
appointed for its government bailies, a treasurer and a
i-ouncil, with right to enrol burgesses, and with various
other privileges. These privileges, with certain feu-
duties and other rights, were afterwards conveyed abso-
lutely to the burgh of Canongate, the alibots retaining
only the bare superiority, which they continued to hold
till the dissolution of the abbey at the time of the Refor-
mation. The superiority passed then to Robert Stewart,
commendator of Holyrood, next to Sir Lewis Bellenden
of Broughton, afterwards to several others, till at length
in 1630 it was acquired by the city of Edinburgh. The
only riglits left to tlie ancient suburb consisted of tlie
superiority over certain properties within its bounds,
the right to levy jietty customs, market dues, and cause-
way mail. The niagi:itrates were next deprived of tlinir
juri.sdietion in criminal cases, but still allowed to hold a
weekly court for civil causes, and for some classes of
(juestions within the competency of sheriffs and magis-
trates of royal burghs. Tliey still, also, acted as justices
of peace for their own territory, assisted by an assessor,
who was a member of the faculty of advocates. Thev
478
continued to hold these powers under the superiority of
the city till the year 1856, when the jurisdiction was
finally merged in that of the Edinburgh corporation by
the Municipal Extension Act. This jurisdiction ex-
tended at one time not only over the Canongate, but
also the Holyrood precincts, or Abbey, St Cuthbert's,
Pleasance, North Leith, and Coalhill, South Leitli ; and
no one but a burgess or freeman of Canongate was at
liberty to carry on trade or manufacture within the
bounds, and even this liberty was restricted to burgesses
enrolled as members of particular craf cs. The admission
fee for becoming a burgess was £3, 3s. in the case of a
stranger, and £1, lis. 6d. for the son of a burgess. The
incorporated trades were hammermen, tailors, wrights,
bakers or baxters, shoemakers, weavers, fleshers, and
barbers, and they were incorporated by royal charter in
1630. They possessed considerable funds ; and for the
management and appropriation of these funds for behoof
of poor members and members' widows, the trades' in-
corpoi-ations still have nominal existence in one united
association.
The burgh of Canongate was long divided from the
cit}' by a trench of open ground, and had much of the
character of a separate town. Many of its older houses
are believed to have been built for the accommodation
of the retainers of the court of Holyrood, and as these
were added to for craftsmen and tradesmen, the burgh
extended gradually westward till it marched with the city
at Netherbow. Its streets and closes striking oft" the
main thoroughfare opened originally, where they opened
at all, on the country, or were enclosed only by a wall
so slender as to be practically useless for defence ; but
the burgh enjoyed a sufficient protection from marauders
and military assault under oover of the ecclesiastical
authorities of the Abbey. This immunity, however,
was rudely broken in 1543, when the forces of Henry
VIII. ravaged the burgh, inflicting great havoc. Prior
to this, eventful as the times were, the burgh can be
said to have had little history of its own, figuring as it
did mainly as an appanage of the Abbey, and even its
sacred affairs, both as regards church and cemetery, were
down to Revolution times all identified with Holy-
rood. During the siege of Edinburgh in 1571, the
burgh was for a brief period the seat of parliament, the
basis of attack upon the city, and the scene of some not-
able incidents, when it sutlered severe injury from the
artillery of Kirkaldy of Grange.
The Canongate retains none of its buildings erected
prior to 1544, but a number of those extant were town
mansions of the nobility subsecpient to the reign of
Ciueen Mary, olfering, some of them, features attrac-
tive to the antiquary, while several derive an interest
from historical and other associations. The main
street begins at the area in front of Holyrood, and
stretches upward and westward for about 650 yards to
the Nethei'bow gateway already described, which till
1762 separated tlie burgli from the High Street. It
thus occupies the E end of the wedge-shaped ridge or
central hill on which the more ancient division of the
city stands ; forms part of the noble old street extending
from the Castle to Holyrood, which, though it presents
now a broken-down and dingy appearance, is not yet
shorn of all its ancient picturesque grandeur. W3'nds,
courts, and closes strike olf both sides, leading to two
}>arallel thoroughfares called respectively the North and
the South Back of Canongate, and there are partly on
the street line and partly within these alleys and courts
a number of old aristocratic and public buildings. The
North Back strikes oft' from the E end of the main
street, passes along the gorge between the central hill
and Calton Hill, and is overhung on the N side by
precipitous slopes, by some public buildings, and by
the mural rocks which bear aloft the walls and castel-
lated towers of the Prison ; it joins at its western end
with Low Calton, and is now altogether unimpressive
save as the site here and there of places of anti(juarian
interest. The South Back strikes westward from the
SW corner of the Holyrood area ; runs partly on low
ground verging on the Queen's Park and partly along
EDINBURGH
the gorge between the central and southern hills of the
old citj' ; and measures 750 yards in length. It con-
tains extensive breweries, a Retreat, connected with
Queensberry House, built about 1860, a glass work,
several manufactories, St Andrew's Episcopal Church,
Moray Free Church ; and is winged partly on its
southern side by long ranges of workmen's houses ex-
tending towards Dumbiedykes and confronting Salis-
bury Crags. On the same side, at the western end, is
St John's Hill, now of little account, but anciently be-
longing in succession to the Knights Templars and the
Knights of St John of Jerusalem ; and the street ter-
minates on the N of this hill in a line with Cowgate,
where St Mary Street strikes N and the Pleasance S.
New Street descends N from the Canongate to North
Back, was formed as a genteel place of residence before
the New Town was thought of, and contained the town
mansion of the Earls of Angus and a house occupied by
the French Ambassador to the Court of Queen Mary.
New Street had for occasional occupants, last century,
Lord Kaimes, Lord Hailes, and Sir Philip Anstruther ;
now the gas-works, though the houses are still in fairly
good order, have a large section of frontage on one side.
Leith Wynd, which formerly descended northward from
the W end of the Canongate to Low Calton, and is now
absorbed in its upper part into the line of Jeffrey Street,
was at one time a thoroughfare from Edinburgh to
Leith, and contained anciently several public build-
ings, as Paul's Work and Trinity College, with hospital,
which have been removed to make way for the goods
station and other offices of the North British railway
terminus. St Mary Street, formerly St Mary's ^Yynd,
descends soutliward from the W end of the Canongate
to South Back, and took its name from an ancient
Cistercian nunnery, with chapel and hospital, dedicated
to St Mary. Several principal inns stood here at one
time, as this wynd was long a chief southern outlet
from the city to the S prior to the construction of
South Bridge. Originally a mere alley of some pic-
turesqueness, it became at length a nest of such squalid
misery as to be one of the lirst places to come under the
Improvement Scheme of 1867, and it is now a spacious
and well-aired street, having a range of neat new build-
ings in a Gothic style on the E side. Pleasance, which
runs S from St Mary Street, received its name by cor-
ruption from an ancient nunnery dedicated to St Mary
of Placentia, and was originall}- a suburban village of
the Canongate ; it is now a densely peopled street con-
nected southward and laterally by side streets westward
with the southern extension of the city. St John Street
strikes off nearly opposite New Street to South Back, it is
entered from tlie main street through an archway, but
terminates openly and widely on the S, and has a spa-
cious appearance, and large uniform self-contained houses
built about 1768. Designed as an aristocratic quarter,
St John Street was inhabited for some time by judges,
baronets, barons, and Earls, among these being Lord
Monboddo, Lord Eskgrove, the first Earl of Hopetoun,
and the Earl of Dalhousie, and Smollett, the novelist,
also lived here.
At the foot of Canongate directly opposite the barrier
called the Watergate, and a main apj^roach to the city
before the erection of the North Bridge, at one
time the principal entrance to the burgh, stood the
Girth Cross, the site of wliich is now identified by an
arrangement of stones in the causeway, indicating the
boundary of the Abbey sanctuary ; it was originally a
small structure on a pediment, consisting of a few ste})s,
and figures in history as the scene of some notable public
executions. White Horse Close, or Davidson's Close,
on the N side further W, contains a range of houses
buUt in 1523, long used as the principal inn of the old
burgh, and graphically depicted by Scott in IVaverley.
Whiteford House, W from White Horse Close, is
entered by a lane or entry, and occupies the site of an
ancient mansion of the Earls of Winton, the scene of
several inciilents in Scott's Abbot; it was built by Sir
John Whiteford, and at his death passed to Lord Banna-
tyne, but is now turned into a type-foundry. Queens-
EDINBUBGH
berry House, situated in an enclosure off the S side, was
built in 1681 by Lord Halton, afterwards third Earl of
Lauderdale ; passed by purchase to the first Duke of
Queensberry ; was a frequent residence of his immediate
successors to the title ; and figured largely as a scene of
riotous turmoil and revelry about the time of the Union.
It was eventually sold to government, stripped of much
of its rich decorations, and converted into an infantry
barrack ; by-and-by it became a fever hospital, and is
now a plain sombre building occupied as a house of
refuge for the destitute. Milton House, within another
enclosure on the same side, further W, was built by
Fletcher of Milton, a relative of Fletcher of Saltoun, and
occupies ground partly attached as a garden to a mansion
of the Earls of Roxburgh. It still bears indications of
having once been a handsome building ; it was about
thirty years ago a Roman Catholic school, and has since
been put to a variety of uses. Canongate Church, in an
open area on the N side, built in 1688, is a very plain
quasi-cruciform edifice, and bears on the top of its front
gable a horned deer's head with a cross, representing the
crest of the old burgh, and intended as an emblem of
an alleged incident in the life of David I. which gave
rise to the erection of Holyrood Abliey. This church
was originally built on account of the Abbey church,
wliich the inhabitants of Canongate had attended from
the time of the Reformation, having, in 1687, been
handed over by James VII. for ser\ace according to the
rites of the Roman Catholic Church. The churchyard
l3dng round the church, extending to North Back, is
crowded in every part, and contains the remains of
Adam Smith, David Allan, Dugald Stewart, Dr Gregory,
Provost Drummond, and the poet Fergusson, over whose
grave Robert Burns erected a monument, and on which
he inscribed lines to his memory. In 1880 a rose-
coloured granite monument, 26 feet high, was erected
here in memory of the soldiers who died in Edinburgh
Castle from 1692, and had been interred here. The
Tolbooth, immediately N of the c-hm-ch, is a pic-
turesque, rather grim, building of 1591, having over an
archway the inscription — Patrice et posteris, and with
a small spire and projecting clock ; it was long used for
parochial board purposes, and is now employed partly
for the registrar of the district, partly as a public read-
ing-room, and partly as a police sub-ofiice. An ancient
cross, which formerly stood in the centre of the adjacent
thoroughfare, aud was used as a pillory for offenders
against morality, is now attached to a corner of the Tol-
booth. Tolbooth W5'nd, close by, formerly contained
the Canongate Poorhouse, opened in 1761, but now
disused. Bakehouse Close, a squalid lane nearly oppo-
site, is fronted towards the street by a building of 1570,
at one time the town residence of the first and second
Marquises of Huntly. Moray House, on the S side a
little below St John Street, forms a massive pile with
stone balcony, an entrance gateway with pyramidal stone
posts, and large garden area. It was built in Charles I. 's
time by the Dowager Countess of Home ; became the re-
sidence of the Earls of Moray ; and was temporarily occu-
pied by Cromwell and by Lord Chancellor Seafield. It
was on this balcony the Marquis of Argyll and his family
stood to witness the Marquis of Montrose carried along to
execution. It afterwards became successively an office
of the British Linen Company's Bank, a paper ware-
house, a sugar refinery, a temporary home for the chil-
dren of the Orphan Hospital, and is now occupied by
the Free Church Normal School, while in part of the
garden ground stands Moray Free Church, built in 1862
in Early English style, with main entrance from South
]5ack. A considerable addition to Moray House Scliool
was made in 1877 at a cost of about £5i00. This new
building was 110 feet in length by 45 in width, and was
two stories in height ; is of plain character in front,
with windows having splayed polished facings, moulded
sills and trusses. Holyrood Free Church stands amid
a Ijlock of buildings adjacent to the Abbey area, and^is
a plain edifice. Playhouse Close, an old lane at No.
196, contains a building of 1746, which was the first
regular theatre in Edinburgh. Jack's Land, a large lofty
479
EDINBURGH
pile opposite St John Street, was once the residence of
the Countess of Eglintoun, and was afterwards occupied
by David Hume from 1758 till 1762. IMorocco Land, a
large square tenement, still retains in its front a curious
effigy of a Moor, of which there are various traditions,
these generally identif3'ing it with the last visitation of
the plague to Edinburgh. Chessels Court, at No. 240,
still shows remains of a better class of architecture, and
about the middle of last ccntur)' contained the Excise
office. The parish of Canongate includes most of Queen's
Park, extends eastward to L)unsap])ie Loch, south-east-
ward to Duddingston Loch, S to Prestonfield ; and is
bounded on the N by South Leith, on the E by Dudding-
ston village, on the S by Liberton, on the SW by St
Cuthbert's. The parish formerly had a poorhouse, but it is
now combined with that of St Cuthbert's. (See J. Mac-
kay's History of the Bunih of Canongate, with Notices
of the Abbey and Palace of Holy rood, Edinb. 1879.)
St Cuthbert's. — St Cuthbert's, originally beyond the
city walls and W of Nor' Loch, ranks in respect of
antiquity next to the Castle and High Street. This
parish is bounded on the N by the Firth of Forth, NE
by North Leith and South Leith, E by the old royalty
and Liberton, SE and S by Liberton, SW by Colinton,
W by Corstorphine, and N W by Cramond. The greatest
length is 5 miles ; greatest breadth 3f miles ; and its
area is 6675 acres, of which 76i lie detached, 14 are
foreshore, and 13^ are water. The portions of this
parish beyond the ^parliamentary bounds conjoin with
the district of Dean in a school-board of their own.
The parish extends in one direction from Braid Hills to
Trinity, in others from Slateford to Queen's Park, and
from Corstorphine Hill to North Leith. The surface of
the parish is exceedingly diversified, and comprises a
broad zone of the city, the lands of the Braids and
Blackford, portions of the suburban districts of Mor-
ningside and Grange, the JMeadows and Bruntsfield
Links, the plain extending westward to JIurrayfield,
the dell of the Water of Leith from Slateford down to
Bonnington, and the tract of land, rich in gardens and
nursery grounds, stretching from the AVater of Leith to
Craigleith, and northwards to the shore at Trinity.
Originally St Cuthbert's parish was of such extent as to
comprise many of the present parishes of the city, as
well as those of North Leith, South Leith, Corstorpliine,
and Liberton. The original church is said to have been a
Culdee cell, which derived its name from the Culdee mis-
sionary, St Cuthbert, who, after itinerating as a preacher
from York to the Forth, became head of the monastic
house of Lindisfarne or Holy Island, and whose name, after
his death in 687, was thus perpetuated here as elsewhere
in the S of Scotland. The i)arish, besides being the
oldest, by-and-by became one of the wealthiest ; its first
church is believed to have been built about or soon after
St Cutlibert's death, acquiring endowments at or before
the date of the charter of Holyrood ; and, with its ' kirk
town ' and other rights, it was given by David L to Holy-
rood Abbey. The limits of the parish were considerably
reduced in Roniisli times, and were afterwards still fur-
ther reduced by the withdrawal of those portions which
now form the parishes of the New Town. Even as re-
duced at first, however, St Cuthbert's had a number of
ecclesiastical institutions, one of these being the nunnery
dedicated to St Mary of Placentia, already referred to
as adjacent to the city wall, at that portion of the city
now forming the E of Drummond Street, and still
leaving traces of the name, Plcasance, given to the dis-
trict. Besides this there were others in St Cuthbert's
jiarisli — a chapel or hospital dedicated to St Leonard,
which stood on the E side of the road leading soutli-
ward to Dalkeitli, as the name of the adjoining locality
still witnesses ; another cliapel, l)elonging to the Knights
Templars, which occupied a rising-ground in Newington,
witli a cemetery attached, in wliich were found, about
the beginning of last century, several bodies with swords
alongside ; a convent of Dominican nuns, founded by
Lady St Clair of Koslin, and dedicated to St Catherine
of Sionna, which stood in the Grange near the Meadows,
and gave the name of Scienncs to a district around its
480
EDINBURGH
site, a house in St Catherine's Place showing a tablet
in its front plot to indicate the supposed site of this
convent ; St Roque's Chapel, which stood on the W
end of Boroughmuir, and had also a cemetery, which
was used by the citizens of Edinburgh for about two
centuries, and was specially a place of interment for
persons who died of epidemic diseases ; St John's Chapel,
which stood E of St Roque's ; and another, dedicated
to the Virgin Mar}-, which occupied a spot in the suburb
of Portsburgh still known as Chapel Wynd. St Cuth-
bert's Church, or the 'West Kirk,' as it is popularly
called, has always stood at the W end of the Nor'
Loch valley, close to the base of the Castle rock. The
original building disappeared at some period unknown
to record, and that which was erected in its place was a
large cruciform edifice with a massive square tower,
which, after undergoing many repairs and alterations,
and suffering much damage during the siege of the
Castle in 1689, was pronounced incapable of restoration.
Taken down at last in 1775, it then gave place to the
present building, which, exclusive of the steeple, cost
£4231. It is an exceedingly plain structure, but
has a most commodious interior, containing 3000 sit-
tings. The steeple was a later addition, and was
erected by subscription in the hope of lessening the un-
gainliness of the church, which, though it has on the
whole a heavy appearance, now with this added feature
blends fairly well with the neighbouring scenery. An
extensive churchyard surrounds the edifice, dating from
very ancient times, and contains a great number of
monuments — one of these, to the memory of advocate
Jamieson, son of the Scottish lexicographer, is adorned
with sculpture, representing the advocate as protecting
the innocent and bringing the oppressor to justice ; and
another, by Handj-side Ritchie, on the basement of
the steeple, is commemorative of Dr Dickson, a highly -
esteemed and popular minister of St Cuthbert's, and
represents him as the consoler of the widow and orjdian.
De Quincey, Dr Combe, the pliysiologist, and many
other eminent persons have been interred in this church-
yard. (See George Seton's Convent of Saint Catherine
of Sienna, near Edinburgh, Edinb. 1871.)
The modern thoroughfares off tlie line of Netherbow,
High Street, and Lawnmarket are of various dates and
character ; and they were rendered necessary as the
city extended further northwanl and southward. Of
these, George IV. Bridge extending southward and the
approach westward were formed in the years 1825-36,
uiuler the authority of a special act of parliament, at a
cost of about £400,000. North Bridge, South Bridge,
Bank Street, and Cockburn Street were constructed and
completed respectively in 1772, 1788, 1798, and 1859. St
Mary Street, Blackfriars Street, and Jeffrey Street, on
the line of Netherbow and High Street, arose out of the
Improvement Scheme of 1867, authorised by parliament,
on an estimate that it would cost £300,000 for the mere
ac(piisition of old property and the laying out of new
streets, and require upwards of thirty years for comple-
tion. This last scheme originally provided for the open-
ing of new diagonal streets across the wynds and closes
flanking the main tlioroughfares, the widening of several
closes to the breadth of airy streets, the opening of
broad passages tlirough archways to the new diagonal
streets, the removal of wooden fronts from the older
houses, and the forming of open paved courts in the
denser and more ruinous portions of the closely-built
areas flanking the main thoroughfares— aiming thus at
two main objects, first, the amelioration of the evils
arising from overcrowding and defective ventila-
tion ; and, secondly, increased facilities for business
traffic. The j)lan was subsequently mucli modified ;
and one of the earliest operations connected with its exe-
cution was the clearing away of a number of unsightly
liouses, and the opening of a spnrious and handsome
thoroughfare past the N sitle uf the Colk-g(>, nov/
forming Chambers Street. So rajiid was the progress of
the work under the new sclieme, that in the course of a
few years a very material improvement was sliown in
tlie neighbourhood of Netherbow and Higli Street. !St
EDINBURGH
Mary Street, already referred to as forming originally
part of an ancient line of coniniuuication to the S, was
another of the improvements following upon the scheme
of 1S67. It retains, on the Vi side, the buildings of
the old St JIary's Wynd, somewhat altered and re-
faced ; but on the E side it is lined with new and neat
buildings in the old Scotch domestic style. Blackfriars
Street, running parallel to St Mary Street, about 150
yards to the W, was formed, in the same connection, by
the widening of Blackfriars Wynd and the entire re-
building of its E side, and it now presents a similar
appearance to St Mary Street. Jeffrey Street, com-
mencing in a line with St Mary Street northward, was
begun early in 1872, and so far finished about 1876. The
formation of this street occasioned the removal of many
old and filthy tenements at the head of the old Leith
Wynd ; it follows for a short distance the line of that
wynd, and then bends round behind what is known as
Ashlej^ Buildings, and runs westward to the S basement
of North Bridge, opening up in its way the lower ends
of several old courts and dense closes. Its average slope
is about 1 in 56 feet, but the ground it passes over as
it turns off from Leith Wjmd is so irregular that a viaduct
of ten arches had to be thrown across. This street is
being built generally on its southern side in the Scottish
domestic style, the northern side being necessarily left
unbuilt.
The Bridges. — When the erection of the New Town
was resolved upon, the opening up or construction of
some easier means of communication than then existed,
became imperatively necessary. Accordingly in 1763
the valley containing the Nor' Loch was drained, and
on the 21 Oct. of the same year the foundation stone
of the new bridge was laid. The work, however, was
not begun till two years after, when through miscalcula-
tions of the builder a considerable portion of the in-
completed structure gave way in Aug. 1769, causing
loss of life and other damage. This mishap being re-
paired, the bridge was securely completed in 1772 at a
cost of about £18,000. It consists of three great semi-
circular arches of 72 feet span each, two flanking arches
of 20 feet span, and several smaller ones concealed at
each end. The breadth of the piers is 13| feet each,
and the height from the base of the great arches to the
parapet 68 feet, the breadth within wall originally 40
feet over all the main part, widening to 50 feet at the
ends ; the length of the open section being 310 feet,
Avhilst that of the entire thoroughfare from Princes
Street to High Street is 1125 feet. In 1876 this
thoroughfare, owing to the greatly increased trafiic, was
widened to 57 feet, this being effected by side footpaths
over massive iron brackets and box girders, which,
though they detract from the outward appearance, have
greatly contributed to the widening of the roadway of
the bridge. The southern extension of the North Bridge
is lined with lofty houses on both sides, some of which,
those of the E side, namely, belonged to an ancient close,
the Cap and Feather, which the street opened up ;
while the northern extension is lined on its western
side by a symmetrical range of modern houses, which
are about twice as high in rear as in front, and are
chiefly occupied as places of business. Opposite the
New Buildings, as they are called, is the grand orna-
mental mass of the General Post Ofllce. South Bridge
was fonned to extend the thoroughfare of North Bridge
to the southern districts. It cost, for purchase of pro-
perty, upwards of £50,000 ; for its o'wn erection, £15,000 ;
but the building areas along its sides yielded in return
upwards of £80,000. It comprises 22 arches, all of
which, with the exception of one central arch, are con-
cealed by the substructure of the buildings, so that it
presents the appearance of an ordinary levelled street.
As originally edificed there were, in the lower stories,
often two tiers of shops immediately over one another,
those in one tier a few steps above, and those in the
other twice or thrice as many below the street level.
Cockburn Street, opening from the N side of High
Street, a little W of North Bridge, was formed under a
a special Act in 1853, and designed to facilitate com-
31
EDINBURGH
munication between the Old Town and the railway
terminus at its foot. It curves somewhat in the shape
of the letter S over a total length of about 260 yards ;
has a pretty steep slope, yet with sufficiently practicable
gradients. It is mainly built in the Scottish style of
the 16th centur)^, and lays open to view some romantic
sections of the dense masses of the architecture of the
ancient closes. It is somewhat grandly overhung near its
centre on the S side by the lofty rear of the Royal Ex-
change ; and, except for the unsightly gap which its
upper end makes in High Street, has added consider-
ably to tlie jiicturesqueness of the great N flank of the
Old Town.
Bank Street descends about 60 yards northward from
the line of Lawnmarket to the front of the Bank of Scot-
land ; thence it deflects downwai'ds to the W about 130
yards, and terminates in an expanding curve northward
by the Mound, over the valley of the Nor' Loch, to
Princes Street. It retains, in its uj^permost section, old
buildings which belonged to closes through which it was
carried ; but where it sweeps westward it forms a ter-
race which is overhung by, among other structures, the
lofty, massive, commanding rear-front of James' Court.
The view from this terrace westward is very striking,
particularly towards sunset on a summer evening. George
IV. Bridge extends about 360 yards southward on a line
with the upper reach of Bank Street. Its erection occa-
sioned the demolition of many picturesque old houses,
and exposed to view the rear elevations of the County
Hall and the Advocates Library. It is constructed of
three splendid open central groined arches, seven con-
cealed minor arches, and a great mass of embankments,
and forms a spacious thoroughfare. The houses are sub-
stantial structures, those towards the middle of the bridge
being of great elevation. It is the site of several public
buildings, among others, the county and sheriff courts,
and the chambers of the Highland and Agricultural
Societj'.
St Giles Street, a little to the E of the uppermost
section of Bank Street and parallel with it, is of recent
construction, and affords a ready approach from the
New Town to the Parliament House. A long flight of
steps from it at the foot of it leads to the Waverley
Bridge, and it contains the offices of the Daily Revieio
and the Courant.
The New Western Approach, striking off from the head
of La^vnmarket at a sharp angle, and skirting on the
SW the Castle rock, has a total length of about 900
yards, and bears successively the names of Johnston
Terrace, King's Bridge, and Castle Terrace. It com-
municates, about 130 yards from the E end, by long
flights of steps, ^vith the upper end of Castle Hill, and
commands, at points, romantic close views of the Castle
rock and surmounting edifices. Johnston Terrace,
comprising fully one-half of the entire western ap-
proach, contains, among other buildings, the barracks
of the married soldiers of the Castle garrison, but is
mainly an open roadway. King's Bridge occupies a
curve across a dell in continuation of the ravine along
the S side of the wedge-shaped hill of the Old Town ;
and has, at the middle of the curve, a single arched
bridge, subtended by high embankments. Castle Ter-
race goes from the extremity of the King's Bridge curve
north-westward to Lothian Road, about 140 yards S of
the W end of Princes Street. It was long, like Johnston
Terrace, little else than an open roadway, but is now
adorned on most of its SW side, by very handsome build-
ings. The chief of these, erected in 1868-72 with highly
ornate features on a kind of geometric plan, is faced, along
the other side, by rows of trees and hanging gardens,
and is winged, on the SW side, by several new, short,
neatly edificed streets. Midway between King's Bridge
and Lothian Road stands the United Presbyterian Hall,
an account of which is given elsewhere. A new street
connected with the Improvement Scheme of 1867, has
been cut from the SE end of Castle Terrace, across an
intervening dense suburb, by the side of the Cattle
Market to Laui'iston, and contributes materially both to
facility of communication and sanitary improvement.
481
EDINBURGH
The Cowgate occupies the ravine along tlio S skirt of
the main or wedge-shaped hill of the Old Town, and
parallel with it. "it measures about 2000 feet in length,
and is comparatively narrow. Originally an open road,
broadly fringed with copsewood, connecting HoljTood
with St Cuthbert's or West Church, it began to be built
upon, as a patrician quarter, in the time of James III.,
and was long a choice residence of peers and other men
of high rank. It continued up to last century even to
be the abode of such distinguished persons as Lord
Minto, and it contained mansions of the Bishops of
Dunkeld, Cardinal Beaton, the ISIarquis of Twceddale,
the first Earl of Haddington, Henry Mackenzie [The
Man of Feeling), Sir Thomas Hope, and Lord Brougham's
father, besides a hall which was twice used for great
national conferences. An old pile here, called the
Magdalene Chapel, with a battlemeuted steeple, to the
W of George IV. Bridge and conspicuous from it, is
famous as the meeting-place of the first General As-
sembly of the Scotch Church, which was convened here
in 1578, under the presidency of John Knox. It is now
used as premises for the Edinburgh Medical Mission.
The Cowgate still retains some relics of its former gran-
deur ; but is now nearly all given over to the poorest of the
population : and, as seen from the arches of South Bridge
and George I Y. Bridge, seems little else than a wilderness
of battered walls, ragged roofs, and rickety chimneys.
The march of city improvement has lately swept many
of its old buildings away, leaving open spaces or courts.
The Horse Wynd, so called as affording an outlet for
horses and vehicles, extended S from the middle of the
Cowgate, the continuation of it being still represented
by the lane between the University and the Industrial
Museum and the street of Potterrow. It was one of the
oldest outlets from the city S, and contained the houses
of many of the nobility and gentry, its vicinity being
the birthplace of Sir Walter Scott. Immediately E of
and parallel to it was the College Wynd.
The Grassmarket, which extends westward almost on
a line with the Cowgate, is a spacious rectangle 300
yards in length. It is overhung on the N and NW by
the Castle Hill and Castle rock, which is here very pre-
cipitous, and on the S is subtended by Heriot's Hospital
and grounds ; and it still contains not a few of its old
picturesque buildings, which belong to the city archi-
tecture of the 17th century. It was constituted into a
weekly market-place for country produce in 1477, and
was in 1513 — a time when the city had begun to
spread itself beyond its original barriers — included
Avithin an extension wall. It opens westward by two
thoroughfares, of which the one in the SAV, called
the West Port, was the ancient egress from the city on
the W, and the scene of the Burke and Hare murders in
1828. Its E end was the place of public execution in
the persecuting times of Charles II. and James VII. ,
and the scene of the execution of Capt. Porteous by the
mob in 1736. The socket of the public gallows was dis-
covered here at some dej^th beneath the street in 1869,
and a St Andrew's cross marks the spot. Tlie Grassmar-
ket was, before the times of the railway, the centre of
the carrier traffic to and from all parts of the country.
On the S side stands a spacious Corn Exchange. The
Candlemaker Row, which branches off S from where
the Grassmarket joins the Cowgate, and runs between
Greyfriars' Churchyard and George IV. Bridge, is a
thoroughfare which was opened up for traffic with the S
by Bristo Port at the head of it, and as such, i)retty
much superseded the original outlet in that direction by
the Horse Wynd and Potterrow. The place is, as also
an old hospital that once stood on the site of Chambers
Street close by, familiar to all readers of Dr John Brown's
lUib and his Friends, though it is much changed from
those days. The West Bow, already referred to, wound
upwards from the SE comer of the Grassmarket to the
head of the Lawnmarket, and the course it took is
indicated in a way by means of a flight of stairs. This
quaint old street has been all but abolished to make
way for Victoria Street, which curves up eastward in
a pretty steep gradient to George IV. Bridge, and con-
482
EDINBUKGH
tains near its top some modern buildings on a founda-
tion far below its own level, one of these on the S side
being a massive pile in the old Scottish Baronial style,
erected in 1867-68, and called India Buildings.
Chambers Street, between George IV. Bridge and South
Bridge, is a new thoroughfare formed chiefl}' in 1872-76,
under the Improvement Act of 1867, and so called in
honour of Sir William Chambers, then provost of the
cit}', the chief promoter of the scheme. It extends 310
yards in length, and has a general width of SO feet.
The construction of this street made away with Adam
Square at the E end, Argyle Square near the centre,
and Bro^vn Square at the W end, of North College
Street, as well as Horse and College Wjmds which
opened up here from the Cowgate. The two latter squares
were a fashionable quarter of the city before the erection
of the New Town, and they were originally approached
from the W by an archway or pcnd, which pierced one
of the tenements of Candlemaker Row. Here stood, on
the S side, the mansion of the Earls of Minto, after-
wards a surgical hospital, and here, on the site of the
Industrial Museum, the Trades' ^Maiden Hospital and
one of the Independent Chapels erected by the Haldanes
at the close of last century. It is now "flanked on the
one side by the University and the Industrial Museum,
and on the S by a Free church, a Normal School, the
iliuto House Surgical School, the School of Arts, and
several other buildings.
Infirmary Street, which extends eastward from Cham-
bers Street, contains the old Infirmary and Surgeiy
Hospitals as well as two churches. It occupies an area
of 270 yards b}^ 120, and is famous for having been in
ancient times the site of Blackfriars Monaster}*, and of
the original High School, in an area at the foot of it
called High School Yards. All this region is fated to
undergo some day soon sweeping changes.
Nicolson Street and Clerk Street continue the great
thoroughfare of North Bridge and South Bridge, about
1080 yards southward, from the front of the College to
the commencement of Newington. Nicolson Street was
constructed toward the end of last century, along an
open tract of ground belonging to Lady Nicolson, whose
mansion stood on a spot near the eastern extremity of
South College Street. It extends about 445 yards to an
intersection by Crosscauseway ; is mainly edificcd in the
plainest Italian style ; and contains what was the mansion
of the eminent chemist, Joseph Black, M.D. , author of
the theory of latent heat, and now belongs to the
blind asylum. Nicolson Square, on the W side of the
street, about 165 yards S of the College, was intended
to be an aristocratic quarter, but it failed to compete
with any of the New Town Squares ; it contains a house
long occupied by the sixth Earl of Leven, for many
j'ears Lord High Commissioner to the General Assembly.
Nicolson Square has been greatly improved by the opening
of Marshall Street through its western side, and thence
to Bristo Street, leading right down into George Square
through Charles Street. Marshall Street contains a large
board school, a U. P. church, and a Baptist chapel. The
garden in the centre of Nicolson Square, though neat
enough in itself, has a bald appearance from the want
of some striking central feature. West Nicolson Street,
a plain short thoroughfare, striking westward from
Nicolson Street, about 130 yards S of Nicolson Square,
was the residence of the painter Runciman, probably at
the time he received visits from the poet Fergusson ;
and the residence also, in his early days, of the dis-
tinguished painter, David AVilkie, afterwards Sir David.
Numerous streets lie eastward of Nicolson Street, to
distances of from 300 to 500 yards, and include many
intersections and one or two small squares ; but all are
plain, some are dingy, and none possess any particular
interest. Clerk Street is mainly of similar character to
Nicolson Street, but its environs are less crowded, and
its extensions consist of houses for most part of a better
class and of a more modern type. Clerk Street forms the
main thoroughfare to the suburb of Newington, whicli is
being gradually extended from the SE, by Echo Bank,
Craigmillar, Powbum, Blackford Hill, and Grange Loan
EDINBURGH
to Morningside, which again joins on to Merchiston,
and thence round to Dahy. The new portions of
Kewington suburb, as well as the lands S of the Meadows
and those of "Warrender Park, are being filled up mainly
by elegant villas, and streets and crescents, displaying
gi-eat symmetry and good taste, intersected by wide
open roadways.
Potterrow, which runs parallel on the W to Nicolson
Street, is, as already said, a continuation of the Old
Horse Wynd, and commences at the "W end of South
College Street. It has a length of about 299 yards, l)ut
the street is narrow and squalid looking, though, like
other parts, it has seen better days, having been an
aristocratic quarter, and containing, so late as 1716, the
residence of the Earl of Morton. Marshall Street,
which now cuts it at right angles, is, in its western
section, the site of Middleton's Entry, where the flaxen-
haired ' Chloris ' of the poet Burns lived, and of
General's Entry, where Viscount Stair and General
Monk resided ; and in its eastern section the site of a
court, part of which still stands, called Alison Square,
where Campbell wrote his Pleasures of Hope, and Burns
visited his Clarinda. Charles Street, Avhich leads into
George Square, W of Marshall Street, is where Lord
Jeffrey was born, and whence, by way of Middleton's
Entry belike, he might be seen in schoolboy da)'S mov-
ing every morning with his satchel for the High School
Yards. George Square, commencing on a line mth
Charles Street, extends about 220 yards westward, and
is of nearl}'^ equal length and breadth. It was formed
in 1766, in competition with the scheme then afloat to
extend a new town on the N, and was, for many years,
a highly aristocratic quarter, numbering among its
residents the Duchess of Gordon, the Countess of
Sutherland, the Countess of Glasgow, Viscount Duncan,
Lord President Blair, Henry Erskine, and the fatherof Sir
Walter Scott, who lived in Xo. 25. It is a spacious square,
surrounding a well-kept enclosure of laAvn and shrub-
bery, and has maintained much of its old air as a place of
residence, presenting a striking conti'ast to some of the
confined, dingy, disagreeable quarters a little way to the
E of it. Buccleuch Place, to the S of George Square, was
built at the same time, and contains tall tenements, one
in the centre No. 15, now divided into flats, as they are
called, having been used for balls and assemblies, and a
flat in No. 18 having ■witnessed, in Jeffrey's quarters,
the hatching of the Edinhurgh Review.
The Waverley Bridge, which extends across what was
the E end of the Nor' Loch, from the foot of Cockburn
Street to Princes Street, was erected in connection with
the North British railway, to the station of which there
slones down from it a broad approach. It traverses the
space originally occupied by what was called the Little
ilound. At the N end of the Waverley Bridge, and ex-
tending between Princes Street and the stafiou, is the
Waverley Market, a large open area roofed in for the
sale of garden produce. The roof is on a level with
Princes Street, and is laid out with flowers, offering a
convenient lounge aside from the street trafiBc. This
area is let for musical promenades, and was this year
the scene of the great fisheries exhibition. Mr Glad-
stone held one of his great meetings here in 1880,
during the political campaign which led to the fall of
Lord Beaconsfield's administration. The Mound,
which crosses the valley of what was the Nor' Loch,
280 yards W of the Waverley Bridge, was gradually
formed by deposits of earth and rubbish dug out for the
foujidations of the houses of the New Town from
1781 to 1830, being preceded by a slight pathway for
foot-passengers called ' Geordie Boyd's Brig,' which
consisted chiefly of a succession of steps or stepping-
stones across the as yet half-drained loch. It is com-
puted to contain two million cart-loads of earth-rubbish,
to deposit which would cost about £50,000 at the rate
of only sixpence a load, and it measures 800 feet from
where it begins in Bank Street to where it joins I'rinces
Street. For long its main area was left open and let for
temporary wooden erections, mostly of an ungainly char-
acter, a pavemented footpath and carriage-way running
EDINBUBGH
down its E side. After the erection of the Art Galleries
behind the Royal Institution at the foot, these struc-
tures were removed, a broad stairway took the place of
the original footpath, and a carriage-road with pave-
ments swept down by the W. It is pierced by a tunnel
and flanked by gardens, where everything is done that
the gardener's art can do to make up for the egregious
blunder of draining the valley.
The New Town may be regarded as divisible into four
sections, a sou them, a northern, an eastern, and a
western. The southern section is the original New
Town, and was begun to be built in 1767 and completed
about 1800, chiefly after a plan by Mr James Craig, a
nephew of Thomson the poet. It runs parallel in its
main direction with the High Street, and terminates
westward opposite the W extremity of the Castle. It is
1300 yards in length, and 365 in breadth, and occupies
the AV of the broad-based eminence immediatelj' to the
N of the Loch valley. A long broad street terminated
by two spacious squares runs along the ridge, and
parallel with it two terraced ones looking respectively
N and S, with narrow parallel streets between, and
others of good width at right angles, the whole being in
outline a regular parallelogram, and in mass compared by
Prof. Frank of Wilna ' to a regiment of soldiers divided
into companies, and standing three deep. ' All this sec-
tion was originally edificed on a regular plan ^\■ith houses
rising from a sunk enclosed area to a height of three
stories, but by alterations, renovations, and reconstruc-
tions, especially in the southern and central portions, it
has gradually come to assume a great diversity of ap-
pearance.
Princes Street, which extends along the S side of the
parallelogram, and looks up over the gardens to the tall
piles of the romantic Old Town, occupies the line of an
old country road called the Lang Gaitt (way), and after-
wards, when fenced in by stone walls, the Langdj^kes.
It has of late years undergone so many renovations that
it has lost nearly all its originally stiff character, and
presents now a rich and diversified array of ornate archi-
tecture. It has recently been widened, moreover, as
a thoroughfare, a broad handsome pavement for the
pedestrian being added on to its S side along its
entire length. It is the principal street and most
fashionable promenade of the city, and, if we regard
it at once in itself and its surroundings, is perhaps the
finest street of any city of the world. It presents, on
the one hand, an arra}' from end to end of handsome
shops, hotels, clubs, and public offices, and on the other
avenued walks, interspersed with monuments, of which
that to Scott is the chief. The view from the W look-
ing E is particularly striking ; the bold Castle rock
towers sheer up on the right, the Old Town slopes
grandly down E of it till lost to sight, the Calton Hill
bounds the view as you look straight onward, while the
whole with its garden enclosures between is guarded
beyond by the blue-veiled heights of Salisbury Crags
and Arthur's Seat. The first glimpse of the city from
the W, when everji:hing is in full bloom, is a sight
never to be forgotten by any stranger ; the native eye is
too accustomed to it to enjoy the full spell of its glory.
St Andrew Square, at the E end of George Street,
which runs along the ridge behind Princes Street, was
built in 1772-78. It measures about 170 yards each
way, and was, when first built, the most aristocratic
quarter of the cit}-. It is now surrounded by banks,
and insurance and other public offices, and contains a
spacious enclosure vnth a monument in the centre to
Viscount Melville, which, as seen from a distance, tower-
ing above the other buildings, forms a conspicuous
feature of tlie city. No. 21 on the N side of this square
was the birthplace of Henry Lord Brougham, and the
house which stands at the comer of South St David
Street was the one in which David Hume lived latterly,
and where he died. George Street extends westward
nearly J mile, and is 115 feet wide. It was built
at first throughout on one uniform plan, but this has
been broken in upon of late years, to the improvement
of the general aspect, by the erection of banks and pub-
483
EDINBURGH
lie offices, and the decoration of fronts. The Commer-
cial and Union Banks, the Assembly Rooms, ^^•ith the
Music Hall and Freemasons' Hall, are on the S side of the
street, and at three of the intersections are monuments
to George lY., William Pitt, and Thomas Chalmers, the
Melville Monument being at its eastern extremity, and
the Prince Consort Memorial at its western in Charlotte
St^uare, under the dome of St George's Church. No. 92
was for seventeen years the abode of Lord Jeffrey, and for
four years of Lord Cockburn ; No. lOS that of Sir "Wal-
ter Scott in 1797 ; and No. 133 that of Sir Henry Rae-
burn. Charlotte Square, of similar extent to St Andrew
Square, was constructed in ISOO after designs by Robert
Adam, and displays an array of elegant and sjTnme-
trical facades overlooking a well-kept enclosure with the
Memorial just referred to in the centre.
Queen Street, the northern terrace thoroughfare of
the southern New Town, was originally built in the
same style as Princes Street and George Street, and has
undergone less change than either of these. It contains
at No. 62 the abode of Lord Jeffrey from 1S02 till 1810,
at No. 52 that of Professor Sir James Simpson ; is sub-
tended on the N, over the greater part of its length, bj-
pleasant gardens, well sheltered all round by trees,
and 120 yards broad; and it commands superb views,
over these gardens and the northern New Town, of
the expanse of the Forth and the hills beyond. The
streets of the southern New To\\m, which run from S to
N, bear the names, as you go W, of St Andrew, St
David, Hanover, Frederick, Castle, Charlotte, and Hope
Streets. Built originally in the same style as the main
streets, they have lately undergone considerable changes,
particularly those in the E. Castle Street is notable for
containing, at No. 39, the house which was inhabited
by Sir Walter Scott from 1800 till 1826, and afterwards
by Macvey Napier.
The northern New Town declines N on a slope
immediately N of Queen Sti'eet Gardens, and was
built between the years 1803 and 1S22. It resembles
the southern New Town in general outline and in ar-
rangement of thoroughfares, but has some graceful
peculiarities and considerable superiority of architecture.
It extends from E to W, parallel to the southern New
Town, in the form of a parallelogram ; and is disposed
in two lateral terraces, a spacious middle street, two
intermediate parallel streets, two terminal spacious areas,
and several intersecting streets. The parallelogram
which it forms is shorter and broader than that of the
southern New Town ; the eastern parts of its terraces
are in the form of crescents, its eastern terminal area
partly crescents, its western terminal area a compound
of polygon and circus, and its lines of edifices in great
ranges of massive symmetrical facade. It still retains
nearly all its original arrangement and features. Abcr-
cromby Place, the eastern part of the southern terrace,
is a fine crescent about 300 yards long ; and Heriot Row,
the western part of that terrace, contains at No. 6 the
house in which Henry Mackenzie {The Man of Feeling)
spent the last years of his life. Drummond Place, the
eastern terminal area, was formed around a mansion
of General Scott, built about the middle of last century,
and converted at length into the headquarters of the
Board of Customs for Scotland. These offices were re-
moved to Waterloo Place in 1845, and the house taken
down in consequence of operations xinderneath for the
construction of a railway tunnel. Great King Street,
the central thoroughfare from E to AV, is so spacious as
to look almost like a rectangle ; is edificed with ornate
.symmetrical ranges of fa(;ade, those on the one side cor-
responding to those on the otlier ; and contains the
houses of Sir William Allan, the distinguished painter,
and Sir William Hamilton, the great Scotch meta-
I)hy&ician. The Royal Circus, the western terminal
area, stands on a westward slope, across the main
thoroughfare from the city to Stockbridge suburb. It
occupies, at one point, the site of a curious ancient grave,
discovered at the digging of the foundations in 1822, and
overlooks an ancient village, part of which is still ex-
tant, called Silvermills, 270 yards to the NE. The
484
EDINBURGH
Eoj-al Crescent, forming the eastern part of the northern
terrace, measures about 200 yards in length ; continues to
be but partially edificed ; and overlooks a spacious hollow
area, mainlj' occupied by workshops, and by the ponds
and apparatus of the Royal Patent Gymnasium.
Stock-bridge. — Beyond the hollow area the northern
New Town passes into connection with the former
village of Stockbridge, which, with the neighbouring
Silvermills and Canonmills, is all now within the
parliamentary bounds, lying principally along both
sides of the Water of Leith from Dean to Warriston.
Originally an unimportant locality, except for the
flour-mills in its neighbourhood, Stockbridge can now
boast of many beautiful streets, terraces, and crescents,
and such structures, in and around, as Fettes College,
Craigleith Poorhouse, the Deaf and Dumb Institution,
the Edinburgh Academy, Tanfiekl Hall, a Board School,
Heriot Free School, etc., which are all noticed else-
where. Three neat bridges span what is now not so
much a river as a river-bed, most of the water being
carried away by the 'lead,' or dam, which supplies the
motive power for the mills on its banks from the villages
above down to Bonnington. The river is thus always
a paltry stream, except in heavy floods, and was long
little better than a large open sewer, till this was
remedied some years ago by a sj'stem of sewerage carried
down beneath the river-bed all the way to Leith. A
fourth bridge farther down the stream crosses it in con-
nection with the roadway which leads from Canonmills
to Warriston Crescent, Inverleith Row, and Newhaven.
From the upper bridge the stream is seen over-
arched by woods on both sides above, the view being
closed in by the Dean Bridge and the high houses of
Moi'ay Place and Randolph Cliff. The middle bridge of
the upper three leads — by Raeburn Place, where Sir
Henry lived (1756-1823), and by Comely Bank, a
beautifully situated row of houses with flower plots in
front and southern exposure, in No. 21 of which Thomas
Carl3"le resided, — to Fettes College and to Craigleith, at
the latter of which there is a freestone quarry, one of
the most valuable and extensive in Scotland. A fine
public park and recreation ground occupies a gradually
rising slope between Comely Bank and the Dean. St
Bernard's Crescent, with houses in good architectural
style, the central area of the crescent being occupied by
a fine row of old trees, Danube Street, Carlton Street,
Upper and Lower Dean Terrace, and Ann Street, bring
the old village into close connection westward with the
new modern extension of the city beyond Dean Biidge,
which is noticed further on.
The eastern New To^vn presents a great diversity of
character. It absorbed great part of the ancient small
burghs of Calton and Broughton, and the villages of
Moutrie and Picardy, and spreads over the eastern
slopes of the long broad-based hill which supports the
southern and northern New Towns, across the gorge run-
ning north-eastward from the line of St Mary Street,
around Calton Hill, and is in immediate contiguity with
the southern and the northern New Towns. St James
Square, on the tabular crown of the hill adjacent to
the E end of the southern New Town, occupies the
site of the ancient village and mansion of Moutrie, the
scene of some tragical events in the civil war of 1572.
It was built prior to St Andrew Square, on a private
plan, with houses much plainer than those of any of the
squares or crescents to the W. Its piles soar aloft
above their surroundings in romantic masses, which, in
some views from the NE, appear almost as striking as
the structures on the Castle rock ; and it contains, at
No. 30, the rooms in which the poet Pnu-ns spent the
winter of 1787-88, and where he wrote his letters to
'Clarinda.' Leith Street, deflecting from the E end
of Princes Street, slopes about 130 yards to the NE, and
forms part of the main line of communication between
Edinburgh and Leith. It is entirely a business thorough-
fare, crowded with traffic, inconveniently narrow, and
disagreeably steep, and possesses, on its NW side, what
is called a terrace, a one-storied row of shops projecting
from a line of upper stories, with a broad pathway along
EDINBUEGH
the summit of the row. At the foot of Leith Street, on
the right, a road emerges from what is called the Low
Caltou, spanned by the arch of Regent Bridge, 50 feet
•wide, and about 50 feet high. It was anciently the line
of either a Caledonian road or a Roman road, or first
one and then the other, from the southern parts of Scot-
land to the Filth of Forth ; and it was a main outlet
from the eastern parts of the old city to the N prior to
the construction of the North Bridge. Greenside Street,
or Greenside Place, prolonged about 290 yards further
NE than the termination of Catherine Street, at the top
of this road, takes its name from an extensive rapid
slope in its rear, down to the skirts of Calton Hill,
which is now all covered with lanes and factories ; and
has several narrow openings leading down to the lanes.
This slope, which, till near the end of last century, was
clothed with grass, and literally a 'gi'een side,' served,
from the time of James II., as an arena for tournaments,
wapeushaws, athletic sports, and dramatic exhibitions.
Even then its sides were arranged in successive ascents,
somewhat like the tiers of an amphitheatre, and the
spot was used also as a place of capital punishment of
those convicted of heresy and witchcraft. Shakesjieare
Square stood on the E side of North Bridge, at the
eastern extremity of Princes Street. It was erected about
the same time as the North Bridge, and formed three
sides of a small quadrangle, edificed on the E and N. It
contained, with frontage to the N, the Theatre Royal, and
was demolished partly about 1816 at the formation of
AYaterloo Place, and mainly about 1862 at the construc-
tion of the new General Post Office, which occupies the
greater part of its site.
Waterloo Place, striking eastward on a line with
Princes Street, was planned in 1815, and opened in 1819.
Its construction occasioned the demolition of part of the
ancient burgh of Calton, the removal of part of Calton
buryiug-gi'ound, and the excavation of about 100,000
cubic yards of rock. It extends about 230 yards east-
ward, to a shoulder of Calton Hill ; crosses the ravine
of Low Calton b}' Regent Bridge, surmounted by colon-
nades ; and is mainly edificed -with substantial, lofty,
S}Tumetrical houses, showing Corinthian pilasters and
other Grecian decorations ; but toward the eastern
end has frontage only of lofty retaining wall. Regent
Road commences on a line with Waterloo Place,
makes curves east-south-eastward and east-north-east-
ward, and then piroceeds entirely in the latter direction.
It has a total length of about 1050 yards, being all
formed in the way of terrace along the declivitj' of
Calton Hill ; the Prison is on its S side adjacent to
Waterloo Place, and the High School on its N side a
little further E, the monument to Burns and the New
Caltou burying-ground being farther on on the right.
It commands, from its eastern reaches, picturesque
views over Canongate and Holyrood, and forms, while
it leads to the new and rapidly-increasing suburb of
Norton Park, the main carriage communication to
Portobello, Musselbui-gh, and other places in the E.
Jacob's Ladder strikes olf from Regent Road, opposite
the High School, and descends a steep declivity to North
Back of Canongate, serving as a short cut to pedestrians.
It comprises two mutually converging and then diverg-
ing lines of descent, the latter mostly by flights of
steps; and commands from its summit, but still better
from points a little way down, very striking views of
the buildings and the flanks of the E extremity of the
valley of the Nor' Loch. Regent Terrace, Carlton
Terrace, and Royal Terrace, the iirst turning off from
the N side of Regent Road immediately E of the
High School, sweep in a prolonged terrace-line round
the slope of Calton Hill to an aggregate length of about
1200 yards. They consist of ranges of elegant self-con-
tained houses, those of Royal Terrace being adorned with
Grecian colonnades, and they command, all round, ver}'
picturesque views, commencing with Canongate, Salis-
bury Crags, and Holyrood on the S, and ending with the
waters of the Firth of Forth and hills of Fife on the N.
Blenheim Place, at the extremity of Royal Terrace
on the N, affords a good instance of the remarkable
EDINBURGH
inequality between the front and the rear heights of
many of the edifices in Edinburgh, its houses rising
only one story above the pavement-level in front, but
rising four stories in the rear. London Road, which,
striking at an acute angle from the lower end of Blen-
heim Place, goes eastward, and is joined at a point
about 9G0 yards from its commencement by the
thoroughfare from Regent Road, skirts all the N base of
Calton Hill along the margin of a slightly inclined
plain descending northward to Leith, and which is now
occupied by a number of new streets. It is edificed over
about 200 yards of the N side of its W end by the hand-
some houses of Leopold Place, with openings into the
elegant but unfinished lines of Windsor Street and Hill-
side Crescent, and is becoming a main approach to a ris-
ing suburb to the E of the city. It was the latest outlet
from the city to London, and in mail-coach times, before
the railways were constructed, a place of busy traffic.
Leith Walk, deflecting from the lower end of Catherine
Street, runs north-north-eastward to South Leith, measur-
ing aliout 5 furlongs in length to the burgh boundary
at Pilrig Street, and nearly the same thence onward to
Leith. It was originally an unformed track across an
open plain, which was turned into a line of defensive
earthwork, with trench and parapet, in 1650, by
General Leslie, to oppose the approach of Cromwell, and
was transmuted, after the Restoration, into a level foot-
way, 20 feet broad, in which capacity it assumed the
name of Leith Walk. At the opening of the North
Bridge in 1772, it was converted into a carriage-way,
and at a later period formed part of a contemplated ex-
tension of the city northward, from London Road to
Leith, which collapsed with the general building schemes
for the New Town about the j-ear 1820. The consequence
was, that it was only partially, fitfully, and irregularly
edificed, and, till about 1867, had little more than
single lines of houses. It bears, in sections of its upper
parts, the separate names of Greenside Place, Baxter's
Place, Elm Row, Union Place, Antigua Street, Gaj-field
Place, and Haddington Place, where it is of very
great width ; and, from end to end, is an airy
thoroughfare, and a busy line of traffic between
Edinburgh and Leith. Gayfield Square, ofl:' the W side
of Leith Walk, about 380 yards from its head, is a
small plain quadrangle, with an enclosed pleasure-
ground, and contains a house in which Lord Provost
Mackenzie, in 1819, entertained Prince Leopold of Saxe-
Coburg, afterwards King of the Belgians. A sand-hill
of small height, but conspicuous in the midst of the cir-
cumjacent plain, stood on the W side of Leith Walk,
440 yards NNE of the site of Gayfield Square, which,
under the name of Gallowlee, was the site of a per-
manent gallows, where the bodies of criminals used
after their execution to hang for a longer or shorter
period exposed in chains. This hill was removed
piecemeal to form mortar for the building of the New
Town, and gave place to a hollow, now partly traversed
by the northward line of the North British railway and
partly by new streets. A tract on the same side of the
AYalk, above the Gallowlee, was the site of the Edin-
burgh Botanic Gardens for many years prior to 1824.
The gardens stood, before they were transferred to Leith
Walk, in the hollow behind Shakespeare Square, now
occupied by the North British railway, and were known
as the Physic Gardens.
Broughton Street, striking northward from the head
of Leith Walk, descends, with varying slope, to the
northern extremity of what was the burgh of Brougliton,
and is a tolerably well-built business thoroughfare.
York Place, striking from Broughton Street at riglit
angles about 80 yards N of the'hcad of Leith Walk,
goes westward into line with Queen Street. It measures
about 340 yards in length, and is a very spacious and
well-built street. It contains houses which were in-
habited by Sir Henry Raeburn, Francis Horner, Dr
John Abercromby, Dr George Combe, and other dis-
tinguished persons. Picardy Place, eastward in exten-
sion of York Place, was the site of the village of Picardy,
built by French refugees from the province of Picardy,
485
EDINBURGH
after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 16S5, and
contains the house in which the famous wit, John
Clerk, Lord Eldin, lived and died. There are several
streets to the X, running parallel \\*ith York Place, with
more or less handsomely built houses, occupied by well-
to-do people, but these, except in one or two of their
edifices to be noticed afterwards, do not call for any
special account.
The western section of the New Town is contiguous
to the southern and the northern sections. It is sepa-
rated by the Water of Leith from recent large, elegant
extensions, between Stockbridge and the Dean, and
spreads south-westward, from the SW comer of the
soutliern section of the New Town, to an extent of
about 1000 yards by 600. It approaches, on the S and
the SW, Fountainbridge and Dairy, and, with com-
paratively small exception, consists entirely of regular,
airy, elegant places, crescents, and streets. Moray
Place, which is entered from the line of Heriot Row by
Darnaway Street, was built in 1S22 and following
years. It forms a duodecagon, or twelve-sided area,
about 220 yards in diameter, and exhibits uniform
sjTnmetrical confronting facades, adorned at regular
intervals with massive attached Doric columns. It
contains, at No. 24, the house which was the last town
residence of Lord Jelfre)', and has a central, ornate,
enclosed pleasure-ground. Doune Terrace and Glou-
cester Place, on a curving descent from the N side of
Moray Place, are charming short thoroughfares, and the
latter contains the house which was occupied by John
Wilson, and where he died. Great Stuart Street, open-
ing from the WSW side of Moray Place, extends about
270 yards to the WSW ; expands, in its central part,
into the double crescent of Ainslie Place, with enclosed
ornamental shrubbery ; and is all regularly and very
elegantly edihced. Randolph Crescent is entered at the
west-south-western extremity of Great Stuart Street,
forms a semicircle on a chord of about 140 yards, is all
beautifully edificed, and has an enclosed shrubbery,
with a curious group of old trees. These thoroughfares,
from iloray Place to Randolph Crescent, stand on what
was a finely wooded tract, which belonged to the Earl of
Moray, and bore the name of iloray Park. They were
all constructed on a plan by Gillespie Graham, and are
regarded by some critics as the beau-ideal of a fashionable
city quarter ; by others as ' beautifully monotonous and
magnificently dull. ' Theycommand, from as many of their
windows as face the W, very splendid extensive views ;
are subtended, on that side, by gardens and shrubberies
on a steep declivity which slopes down to the bank of
the Water of Leith. Some think that they shoidd have
been built in terraces and crescents with frontages toward
the distant view. Queensferry Street, striking at an acute
angle from the western extremity of Princes Street, runs
about 250 j-ards north-westward to the chord of Ran-
dolph Crescent, and is mainly a business thoroughfare.
Randolph Cliff lines the NE side of the thoroughfare
from Randolph Crescent to Dean Bridge, and directly
surmounts the rocky steeps of the Water of Leith
ravine. Lynedoch Place strikes at an acute angle from
the north-western extremity of Queensferry Street,
extends about 220 yards to the WNW, and is a well-
edificed terrace.
Dean. — The new extension from the north-western
section of the New Town lies across Dean Bridge, and
comprises a number of streets, crescents, and terraces
of a highly ornate character, built upon the slopes
declining E to Stockbridge, and on the high grounds
overlooking on the W the ancient villages of Dean and
Water of Leith. The Dean receives its name from a little,
oM-fashioned, confused-looking village, lying secjues-
tered in a deep ravine on the banks of the Water of
Leith, westward from Dean Bridge, from the S end of
which it is reached by a rai)id slope. This village
exi.sted in the time of David I., as is plain, from mills
belonging to it being among the grants conveyed in his
charter to Holyrood Abbey, and it still contains
some old cottages of the 17tli century, as well as old
flour-mills and other buildings, on the left side ; those
486
EDINBURGH
on the opposite bank of the stream, across a very old
single-arched bridge, and on the steep rising road lead-
ing to Dean Cemetery and Queensferry Road, being
mixed up with others of a more modern date. This
road formed the old route westward to Queensferry till
the building of Dean Bridge. The village spreads
stragglingly upwards from the hollow into connection
with the elegant crescentsand streets of the new extension,
to which, however, this bridge is the direct approach.
The cemetery of Dean was formed, in 1845, on the site
and grounds of Dean House, a curious old mansion built
in 1614, and long the family residence of the Nisbets of
Dean, and afterwards of John Learmouth, Esq., the
gentleman who built Dean Bridge. The cemetery is
very tastefully laid out, still retains many of the old
trees, and has terraced walks on the slopes leading down.
to the river, a considerable extension to the grounds
being made in 1871-72, and measuring 1000 feet by 80.
It has within it many beautiful monuments, and a
number of distinguished people have found their last
resting-place here, among whom may be mentioned Sir
William Allan, David Scott, W. H. Playfair, Alexander
Russell, Professors Forbes, Wilson, and Aytoun, Lords
Jeffrey, Cockburn, and Rutherford, and many local
celebrities. In 1881 a beautiful memorial cross was
erected here to the memory of Lieut. Irving, one of the
officers of H. M. ship Terror, lost in the Ifranklin ex-
pedition in search of the North- West Passage, which left
this country in 1845. North of Dean Bridge is Trinity
Episcopal Church, built in 1839, after designs by John
Henderson. It is an elegant building in the Gothic
stjde, with nave and aisles, and a square tower, and has
also a small cemetery of its own. Still further westward
is Dean Established Church, built in 1836, a plain
cruciform edifice with a belfry. Dean Free Church, at
the S end of the bridge, is a very ])lain building.
The Orphan Hospital, Stewart's and John Watson's
Hospitals, are near at hand. Dean is now a quoad sacra
pai-ish in the presbytery of Edinburgh, but was for-
merly a chapel of ease. The Edinburgh School-Board
has a fine school at Dean, built at a cost of more than
£6000, having accommodation for 450 scholars, and
with spacious playgrounds.
Dean Bridge, crossing from the end of Randolph
Cliff and Lynedoch Place, over the Water of Leith, to
the new extension of Dean, is a very handsome struc-
ture. It was built in 1832 after designs by Telford, has
four arches each 96 feet in span, measures 447 feet in
length and 39 in breadth between parapets, and rises to
the height of 106 feet above the rocky bed of the stream
below. The footpaths on each side are on arches of
greater radius than those of the roadway, and have the
appearance of being merely attached to the main build-
ing. The bridge commands very extensive views N and
NE down the Water of Leith and far over the Firth of
Forth to the hills of Fife. In the valley below the
bridge, and close to the footpath leading from Water of
Leith village to Stockbridge, is an open circular mimic
temple, with a statue of Hygeia under its vault, built
by Lord Gardenstone in 1790 over St Bernard's mineral
well, the water of which is sulphureous, of a similar
nature to the waters of iloffat and Harrogate AVells.
From the river-bed at this point there extend rapidly
rising slopes on both sides, which have been beautifully
terraced and laid out with walks, lawns, and shrub-
beries.
A parallelogram of streets and places extends south-
westward from the flank of Queensferry Street and the
extremity of Princes Street. It measures about 480
yards by 380 ; consists chiefly of Chester Street, Melville
Street, Alva Street, Maitland Street, and Athole Place
in direction from NE to SW, and of Stafford Street,
Walker Street, and Manor Place in direction from NW
to SE. It was built mainly about the same time as the
Moray Place group, but good part of it aliout 1863-69,
and Is nearly all an aristocratic quarter, in some parts
less elegant than the Moray Place district, but in others
more so. It includes, in the line of Maitland Street, a
beautiful expansion in the form of two confronting
EDINBURGH
crescents — Coates Crescent and Athole Crescent, with
enclosed shrubberies, and a row of stately trees. This
being at one time the approach by road from Glasgow
and other places in the W of Scotland, it was here many
a stranger received, not it might be without some sensa-
tion of surprise, his first impressions of the architecture
of Eilinburgh. Melville Street, running parallel to
Maitland Street, about 200 yards to the NW, contains
houses which were occupied by Dr Andrew Thomson
of St George's Church, Dr David Welsh, the historian
Tytler, and Dr Candlish ; and Manor Place, crossing
the SAV end of Melville Street, contains, on its NE
side, a house which was occupied by the distinguished
authoress, Mrs Grant of Laggan. Rutland Sipiare, a
small, neat, aristocratic quadrangle, lies a little SE of
Maitland Street ; and Rutland Street, also neatly built,
and originally akin to the Square, leads from it to a
convergence of thoroughfares at Princes Street, but was
partly demolished in 1869 by clearances for the Cale-
donian station. An area, partly SW and partly NW of
the parallelogram terminating in Manor Place, was laid
out in years subsequent to 1864 for a western extension
of the city, and is now being extensively covered with
elegant houses. The chief places in it are West Chester
Street, Palmerston Place, Lansdowne Crescent, Grosvenor
Cre.scent, Grosvenor Place, Coates Gardens, Magdala
Crescent, Belgrave Crescent, Elgin Street, Burns Terrace,
Buccleuch Crescent, Douglas Crescent, and Argyle Cres-
cent. Most are in styles of elegance vying with one
another and with the best of the earlier portions of the
l^Tew Town ; and it is proposed, for easy communication
with the left bank of the Water of Leith, to erect a new
bridge from the N end of Magdala Crescent to a point in
Bells Mills road opposite the Orphan Hospital. Another
extension arose contemporaneously with this, which
nearly adjoins it on the SW, extending southerly to
the Merchiston district. It includes crescents, places,
and streets, called Caledonian Crescent, Road, and
Place, OrweU Terrace, West End Place, etc., reaching
out as far W as Tynecastle, and consists, in great degree,
of working-men's houses. A considerable aggregate of
streets and places occupies a triangular area between
Lothian Road, West Maitland Street, and Dairy, but
passes into junction on the S with Fountainbridge, and
these are not of a character to challenge detailed notice.
Morningside. — This suburb adjoins the south-western
extremity of the city, and occupies generally a south-
ward slope, extending from the breezy Bruntsfield Links
to the foot of the Braid and Blackford Hills, on which
it looks out. It comprised for long only a main street
of various character descending southward, and leading
to that point on the 'furzy hills of Braid,' whence
Scott took his well-known description of the city,
which appears in Marmion. This main road has now
a great many branching streets and crescents of fine
and ornate character, running eastward to Grange and
Newington, and westward by Merchiston to Dairy,
the occupants of these having been generally drawn to
the district by its mild climate, contesting, as it does,
with Inveresk the fame of being the Montpelier of the
E of Scotland, and attracting many summer residents
and invalids. At the bottom of the slope runs the
Jordan Burn, which here skirts the foot of the hills, and
fences the lands of ' Canaan ' and Canaan House. Several
buildings flank the main street, among these the Lunatic
Asylum at the foot westward ; Established, Free, U.P.,
and Episcopalian churches, the Morningside Athenseum,
etc., at other points. The Established church, on
the E side of the main street, is a handsome
building with a spire, erected in 1837 after designs
by John Henderson. Originally a chapel of ease to
St Cuthbert's, it is now a quooxl sacra church. The
Free church stands a little further N on the W,
being erected originally in 1844, but rel)uilt and
enlarged in 1874 at a cost of more than £3000. It is
now a neat structure in Early Pointed style with tower
and spire 130 feet high. The original U.P. church is a
neat edifice built about 1860, but being found too small
for the wants of the congregation was sold in 1881,
EDINBURGH
and has been interiorly altered for the Momingsido
Athenreum ; a new and larger edifice of Norman
t}'pe, with square tower, nave, aisles, and transepts,
having been erected on a neighbouring site. The Epis
copalian chapel is in the French Gothic of the 13th
century ; was built mainly in 1876, at a cost of between
£10,000 and £11,000, from designs by Hippolyte J.
Blanc ; and has nave, transepts, chancel, an elegant
spire, and vestry. In a road running parallel to
the E called Whitehouse Loan is St Margaret's Con-
vent, established in 1835, an educational institu-
tion and nunnery of the Roman Catholics, and having
within its grounds a small but handsome chapel de-
signed by Gillespie Graham. The whole district here
was anciently forest-land, known as the Boroughmuir,
and was the scene of a desperate battle in 1336 between
a Scottish army under the Earls of Moray and March
and a body of foreign mercenary troops under Count
Guy of Namur, who were on their way to reinforce the
army of Edward III., then encamped at Perth. A road
leading westward past the S wall of the Established
church, being hid by higher grounds on the N from the
view of any part of Edinburgh, was anciently the route
taken by military forces stealthily approaching or retir-
ing from the city, and was that used by Prince Charles
Edward's army in 1745 when they made their detour
round the city to Arthm-'s Seat. On a slope just above
the Jordan Burn is the site of the ancient chapel of St
Roque, and in the wall enclosing the Established church
is fijced what is known as the Bore Stane, a large unhewn
block of red sandstone, in which the royal standard was
planted, by a iore or hollow in it, at the gathering of
the Scottish army previous to the disaster of Flodden
Field in 1513. About a mile S at the entrance to
Mortonhall is another stone, of probably similar intent,
sometimes confounded with it, called the Hare {i.e.,
army) Stane. Churchhill House in Churchhill, was
built by Dr Chalmers, and occupied by him in his
latter years. The Judge Lord Gardenstone, and Pro-
fessor James Syme, the eminent surgeon, also lived and
died in this district.
On the Colinton road, W from the main line of Morn-
ingside a short distance, is the ancient baronial fortalice
of Merchiston Castle, datijig from the 14th or 15th cen-
tury, a principal feature in which is a square tower,
with a projection on one side. Within the battlement
in accordance with an ancient Scottish fashion, a smaU
building with a steep roof rises above the tower. This
tower, as in other instances, is adorned with notched
gables and iianking turrets, which much enhance the
picturesque effect of the building. The castle belonged
from ancient times to the Napier family, three members
of which were successively lord provosts of the city in
the times of James II. and James III., and another the
illustrious John Napier, the inventor of logarithms, who
was born here in 1550. The castle figured prominently
as a fortified place of defence in the ' Douglas Wars '
and the civil strifes of the time of Queen Mary. It still
gives the title of Baron Merchiston in the Scottish
peerage to the descendants of the ancient family of
Napier ; but the castle has received several modern ad-
ditions, and is now used as a private boarding school for
young gentlemen.
Architecture— The styles of building throughout the
city have, in some degree, been incidentally indicated
already, but they exhibit such great diversities and
striking contrasts, that some notice in detail is desir-
able. The arcliitectures of the New Town and the Old,
considered in the aggregate, both in themselves and
their groupings, may be characterised as in the one case
pedantically symmetrical, and in the other romantically
irregular, and exhibit a remarkable contrast. This
strikes one everywhere; whether in the E, where the
terraces of the New Town on the face of the Calton
Hill look down upon the masses of the Old, huddled
confusedly together in the cliff-screened hollow, or in
the middle, where the two towns directly confront each
other on a common level with only the Nor" Loch valley
Ivinf between ; or in the W, where, from the streets and
- ° 487
EDINBURGH
squares and vistas of the New, you look up to the soar-
ing structures of the Old, beetling far aloft in broken
sky-line, and appearing, in certain states of weather, as
if they belonged to a city in the clouds. The contrasts
in detail, among parts of the Old Town, and even the
New, themselves are numerous and striking. Those in
the Old Tovra, indeed, have been largely diminished by
the demolition that has been going on of late for modern
street extension, and are to be met with mainly in the
oldest thoroughfares or closes.
A few houses of dates prior to the commencement of
the 16th century still exist, especially in the Cowgate,
Grassmarket, and Pleasance. These contain a sub-
stantial ground flat, surmounted by a wooden story
reached by an outside stair, and sometimes projecting
over the basement flat and resting upon wooden beams,
so as to form a sort of piazza underneath, with very
high pitched roofs, pierced by storm-windows, and
originally covered with thatch, but now for the most
part slated. Other houses of dates from 1500 till 1677
are still standing, particularly in the closes, entirely
timber-fronted, in a series of stories, terminating in
gables. The successive stories project from one another,
so far as sometimes to make them seem more likely to
topple over than even the leaning tower of Pisa. These
stand sometimes so near one another, front to front,
in the closes, that persons at the windows of their upper
stories may almost shake hands across the intervening
space ; and, in some instances, they have an outer
or fore-stair leading up to a gallery in their second
story. Others of similar character, but of somewhat
later date, are approached by archways underneath
from the street, and have at their back circular or
octagonal towers up their entire height, with cork-
screw staircases, generally well lighted by large square
windows, and locally called turnpike-stairs. The old
stone-built houses are generally very loftj', rising to
a height of from five to seven, or even nine stories,
frequently much higher in the back facades than in the
front ones, and ordinarily surmounted at their gables
by tall chimney-stalks, being sometimes crowned there
with an ornamental finial, and occasionally crow-
stepped. Many houses of the 16th and 17th centuries
have roofs oruamented with cannon-shaped or grotesque
gargoyls ; many also have bartizanned roofs and orna-
mental copings ; and many likewise possess on the roof
elevation dormer windows ^^•ith gablets and pediments,
the latter generally triangular, often surmounted by a
finial, and sometimes crow-stepped. Houses of the
time of James VI. and Charles I. have all high-
pitched roofs, with other more or less characteristic
features, and some of them with two tiers of dormer
•windows, presenting the picturesque appearance of
the steep old Flemish roofs. The windows in the
better class of the older mansions were divided by
stone mullions, furnished ■with leaden casements, some-
times also by stone transoms. They were commonly
surmounted by pediments, either triangular or semi-
circidar, often containing inscriptions ; tliey frequently
had carved lintels, with either dates, inscriptions, or
armorial bearings in strong relief, and were sometimes
boldly corbelled out from the wall. The doorways of
most of the houses of the 16th and ITtli centuries are
square - headed and richly moulded, having ornate
carvings of initials, names, and armorial bearings on
their architraves and lintels, while those of a few are
of Gothic character, with ogee-arched and sculptured
tjTupana. The better class of the old ashlar-fronted
houses have ornamental string-courses, often of very
irregular character, and those of the 17th century fre-
quently have the eaves string-course carried round the
wimlows, in such a manner as to make them look as if
projecting from the wall. Houses of the 17th century,
at the time when Gothic forms began to give place to
the unbroken lines of Halian composition, want tlie
dormer windows of the roof, and have pedimented
windows in.stead, appearing as panels in the wall-face
beneath. Some of the houses built prior to the Refor-
mation have decorated niches, thought to have origin-
488
EDINBURGH
ally contained statuettes of the Virgin Mary, and often
let into abrupt corners of the biiilding ; and some of
times later than the Reformation have also niches,
which probably contained busts or effigies of the
founders or of eminent persons. The ground-floor of
a few of the larger old stone houses has the appearance
of an arcade, being formed of a series of arches resting
on pillars, strong and massive enough to sustain the
superincumbent weight of the upper stories. A castel-
lated style, borrowed from the French, was introduced
in the time of James V., and is characterised chiefly
bj'' circular turrets, commonly called pepper-box tur-
rets, resting on corbels of bold bulging abruptness,
crowned ■«ith conical or ogee roofs, and placed at the
angles of the building so as to command the interven-
ing curtains. The Italian style, at least as to its main
features, was introduced toward the close of Charles II. 's
reign. It occasioned the gradual disappearance of corbio
steps, and gave rise to gables in the form of pediments,
surmounted by urns and similar ornaments, as well as
to square-headed entrances to courts and wynds, often
highly ornamented with pendent keystones, capitalled
pilasters, and Doric entablatures. The old public
buildings also exhibit much diversity of style, but will
afterwards be noticed in detail.
The architecture of the New Town owes much of its
eff'ect to the quality of the building material. This is a
fine-grained, compact, durable, light-coloured, silicious
sandstone ; and, though in some instances deteriorated
by intermixture of argillaceous or ferruginous matter,
is generally so firm as to receive and retain chisellings
and carvings nearly as well as good marble, and so
pure as to suff"er little change of colour from atmo-
spheric action. The architecture, in a few of the
public buildings, is some variety or other of the
Pointed st3de — in three or four, is Saxon or Norman ;
but in all the rest of the public buildings, and in all the
private ones, is some variety or other of the Renais-
sance or the Italian. It has been denounced, by some
high authorities, as too uniform or even, as plain
and insipid ; — and it certainly would have been more
eff"ective, had it included bolder and more numerous in-
stances than it docs of other styles than the prevailing
one ; — stUl it exhibits a tolerably fair amount of native
diversity, is moderately rich in good ornamentation,
is comparatively free from meretricious ornature, and
often acquires extrinsic eftectiveness from the grouping of
edifices one with another, and from their relations to site
and to surrounding objects. Many ranges of buildings,
and many entire streets, though constructed on some
plan of a single facade, display, not monotony, but
symmetry, with great diversity of detail. Rustication
of the basement story, isolated iron balconies on the
next story, and balustered parapets along the summit
prevail in some places, such as Alva Street. Pillared
doorways, continuous iron balconies, and massive cor-
nices are seen in others, such as Regent Terrace.
Massive pilasters, rising from the top of the basement
story, facing the next two stories, and surmounted by
an attic story, distinguish many chief divisions and
conspicuous ranges, such as the central parts of Great
King Street and Royal Circus. Massive attached
columns, variously Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian, collo-
cated sometimes in twos, sometimes in fours, sometimes
in sixes, rising from the top of the projected basement
story, facing the next two stories, and surmounted by an
attic story, are met with in some divisions, such as part
of Albyn Place, great part of Moray Place, and the
greater i)art of Royal Terrace. The same feature, but
with the columns standing, not on a projected basement,
but in antes, characterise other places, such as the arc
on the SW extremity of Forres Street, the two arcs
at the S end of "Windsor Street, and the two arcs
at the widening from Lcith Walk toward respec-
tively Royal Terrace and Loudon Road. The same
features, but M-ith the columns surmounted by a pedi-
ment or by a lofty entablature, show themselves in other
places, such as the central parts of Albyn Place, of
Melville Street, and of the N and S sides of Char-
EDINBURGH
lotte Square. Porticoes in any similar relative situa-
tion are more rare, yet three tetrastyle Ionic ones
occur respectively on the two W gables of AVaterloo
Place, and on a gable above the low houses of Blenheim
Place, looking toward Royal Terrace. Festoons and
other florid ornamentations occur in some places, such as
Charlotte Square and Drummond Place ; even massive
pieces of sculpture are not wanting, such as two great
sphinxes on the summit of the extremities of the N side
of Charlotte Square ; while most of the minor kinds
of Gr:"eco-Italiau ornature, such as rusticated basements,
moulded architraves, window pediments, string-courses,
cord-cornices, and various sorts of balustrades, abound
almost everywhere. The Venetian, the Florentine,
and other varieties of the ornate Italian style also are
not uncommon. A greater diversity and richer orna-
ture have been introduced into the more recent buildings,
exhibiting varieties or features not previously adopted ;
and this occurs as well in reconstructions upon old sites
as in new buildings on new ground. A taste for jjillared
doorways, porticoes, mouldings, sculptures, and orna-
mentations in the renovation and remodelling of build-
ings or of parts of buildings, particularly for shops, ware-
rooms, or other places of business, has, since about the
year 1830, been little short of a passion. Not in even the
smallest colonnades has Tuscan or Doric simplicity as a
rule been deemed sufficient ; but either Ionic gi-ace or
Corinthian finery, though ■with good taste in the detail,
has been generally aff'ected. The necessity of re-fashion-
ing old dwelling-houses into new shops at the smallest
possible cost, has also produced what may be called a new
style in street architecture, by covering over the area of
the sunk flats, projecting a new front to the first story
half-way across that area, and giving to the new front an
aspect of pretensiousness or elegance, so as to make it
appear to be related to the old building in the same
manner as a porch or a verandah. Reconstructions of
this kind, however, are not always contiguous to one
another, and even when contiguous are too often of dift'e-
rent projections and in different fashions. The public
buildings, both civil and ecclesiastical, have diversities
of their own, and are so interspersed through the
thoroughfares as to add very largely to the aggregate
diversity of the street views, but will afterwards be
noticed in detail.
The Castle. — The rock on which the Castle stands is
volcanic, of the variety called basaltic clinkstone.
Its mineral constituents are principally lamellar felspar
and titaniferous iron, with very little augite. It pre-
sents a striking specimen of an erupted mass, soaring
steeply up, comparatively little weathered, and spreading
out on the summit into an inclined tabular form. Its base,
from N to S, measures about 300 yards ; from W to the
line of the Castle's outworks on the E about 360 yards.
Its northern, western, and southern sides are precipi-
tous— in some parts, almost perpendicular ; and its
highest point rises nearly 300 feet above the vale
below, and 383 feet above the level of the sea. The
northern skirts, at least in their eastern parts, un-
dulate down in grassy pleasure-grounds to West
Princes Street Gardens ; the western skirts go down in
bare rock almost sheer to the valley ; and the southern
skirts have been very much altered by operations con-
nected with the New AVestern Approach. On some parts
of the shoulders and the slopes, beyond the present ram-
parts, are vestiges of former fortifications. On the face
of the precipice, on the N side in particular, stands
a fragment called Wallace's Cradle ; and at the base of
that precipice is a small old ruin of date 1400, called
Wallace's Tower — the name AVallace, in both instances,
being a corrui)tion of Well-house. In the sloping
pleasure-ground on the N, also, is a curiously sculp-
tured upright stone ; and, adjacent to it, is a walk
carried through the subterranean remains of some old
outworks.
The area immediately E of the present Castle ram-
parts, at the head of Castle Hill, has now the form of
an esplanade or spacious glacis, and slo[ies gently into
line with the hill-ridge which slants E to Holyrood.
EDINBURGH
It measures about 120 yards from E to W, and about
SO yards from N to S, and had, till about 1753, a ridgy
form, defended all round ])y strong military outworks.
It is now entirely oi)en, with merely parapet walls along
its side, and serves both as a parade ground for the
garrison and a lounge for the idle. It contains three
monuments, afterwards to bo noticed ; overlooks the
romantic masses of tho south-western part of the Old
To\vn ; and commands magnificent views of the New
Town and of the country beyond. The rock of the hill
eastward from the esplanade, and of part of the esplanade
itself, is principally sandstone, intermingled with red
and blue slate-clay, and the strata of it incline towards
the erupted rock in the vicinity of it, but dip away from
it in other places. The original level of tho esplanade
was consideraldy lower than it is at present, and com-
municated with the entrance to the Castle by a long
flight of steps ; and it had, on its eastern verge, an
ancient battery, called the Spur, which was demolished
about 1649. The present level arose from the for-
mation of a narrow roadway after the demolition of
the Spur battery, extended by deposits of earth, dug
from the N side of High Street, about the year
1753, at the founding of the Royal Exchange. A line
of wall, from Wallace's Tower on the N to the old
Overbow Port on the SE, anciently crossed the head of
Castle Hill, separating the esplanade from the town,
and was pierced, in the line of approach to the Castle,
by a gateway called the Barrier Gate, which was tem-
porarily restored when George IV. visited Scotland in
1822, and to isolate the garrison when the cholera raged
in the city in 1832. The ground E of the line of that
wall, on the mutual border of the esplanade and Castle
Hill, was, as far as the head of the West Bow, the site of
the original Edmnesburg, or nucleus of Edinburgh city.
This ground was partly excavated to a great depth in
1850, for the formation of a large water reservoir, and
was then found to contain relics of successive periods
back to the 9th or the Sth century. First were found
coins of the early mintage of George III. ; next vestiges
of the outwork fortifications demolished in 1649 ; then
a stratum of moss containing a well-preserved coin of
the Lower Empire ; and lastly, at a depth of more than
20 feet below the present surface, sepulchral relics were
found, indicating a burying-ground of apparently not
later date than the centuries referred to.
The Castle occupies the crown of the Castle rock W
of the esplanade, and measures above 6 acres in area and
about 700 yards in circumference. It is supposed to
have been occupied as a military stronghold long before
the Christian era. The Caledonian Reguli held it in the
5th century, and perhaps much earlier ; they and the
Northumbrian Saxons often sharply contested for the
possession of it from 452 till tho time of Malcolm II. ;
and the Northumbrian king Edwin reconstructed its
fortifications about the year 626, and gave it the name
of Edwinesburg, signifying Edwin's Castle, afterwards
transmuted into Edinburgh. Its buildings have under-
gone many alterations, extensions, demolitions, and re-
movals at various periods ; so that they presented, both
internally and externally, in the Middle x\ges an appear-
ance very difl'erent from what they present now. Indeed,
with one single exception, all of earlier date than the 15th
century have been swept away. The principal ones in
1572, previous to a siege of thirty-three days by the
troops of tho Regent ]\IoVton and the English auxiliaries
under Sir William Drury, are describeil as follows in
the memoirs of Kirkaldy of Grange :— ' On the highest
part of the rock stood, and yet stands, the square tower
where Mary of Guise died, James VI. was born, and
where the regalia have been kept for ages. On the N
a massive pile, called David's Tower, built by the second
monarch of that name, and containing a spacious hall,
rose to the height of more than 40 feet above the pre-
cipice, which threw its shadows on the loch 200 feet
below. Another, named from Wallace, stood nearer to
the city ; and where now the formidable Half Moon
rears up its time-worn front, two high embattled walls,
bristliu" with double tiers of ordnance, flanked on tha
489
EDINBURGH
N by the round tower of the Constable 50 feet high, and
on the S by a square gigantic peel, opposed their faces
to the city. The soldiers of the garrison occupied the
peel, the foundations of which are yet visible. Below
it lav the entrance, with its portcullis and gates, to
which a ilight of forty steps ascended. The other towers
were St Margaret's, closed by a ponderous gate of iron,
the kitchen tower, the large munition house, the ar-
mourer's forge, the bakehouse, brewery, and gun-house,
at the gable of which swung a sonorous copper bell for i
calling the watchers and alarming the garrison. The \
Castle then contained a great hall, a palace, the regalia, a j
church, and an oratory endowed by St Margaret.' The j
eastern front looked then entirely different from what it
does now ; and, in the siege by IJegcnt Morton, suffered
such utter demolition, that David's Tower and the Con- I
stable's Tower were reduced to a heap of sheer cUhris. I
The present eastern front was all constructed by the j
Regent Morton immediately after the siege. The for- i
tress, prior to the invention of gunpowder, was so strong
by nature that art cither made it, or might easily have
made it, impregnable ; but it is now so easily approach-
able by artillery from the E side, that it possesses very |
little real military strength. It stands there, however, |
a monument of natural grandeur, a memorial of Scottish
history, and a garrison for roj^al troops.
The entrance to the Castle goes through a palisadoed
outer barrier ; across a drawbridge spanning a deep dry
fosse, now serving as a tennis-court for the soldiers ;
through a gatewa}-, flanked by low batteries ; up a cause-
way, between rock and masonry ; and through a long
vaulted archway, with ti'aces of two ancient portcullises
and several ancient gates. An edifice surmounts the
vaulted archway, which was erected on the site of an
ancient batter}" for the pui'poses of a state prison, and
in which the Earl of Argyll, the ilarquis of Argyll,
Principal Carstares, Lord Balcarres, and many others,
n Jacobite rebellion times especially, were incarcer-
ated. Argyll battery, facing the N, a few paces be-
yond the archwaj", has twelve guns, which are only
used for firing salutes ; and commands a fine view
over all the New Toaxti, away to the distant horizon.
A low range of barracks and the armoury are at the
XW corner, a little beyond the Argyll battery ; the
armoury, standing at the foot of a short roadway, is a
large building, with storage for 30,000 stand of arms,
and contains a rich assortment of weapons and trophies.
A high bastion behind the armoury was erected about
1856 on the site of an ancient sally-port, which com-
municated precipitously with ancient outworks. Con-
siderable alteration was made on both rock and buildings
at the erection of that bastion, involving the destruction
of the cliff, and resulting in assimilating the NW corner
more to the aspect of modern fortification work at the
expense of natural picturesqueness. The governor's
house, erected in the time of Queen Anne, and the new
barracks, built in 1796, stand on the verge of the rock,
with their back to the W, a little beyond the high
liastion ; and the latter has three stories in front but
four in the rear, rests there on a range of arches, and
appears at a considerable distance like a large factory
mounted on the brow of a precipice. The road sweeps
past these buildings in an ascending curve, and proceeds
eastward, through a strong gateway in a separate en-
closure, into the inner or higher division of the Castle,
sometimes called the Citadel.
A quadrangle, called the Grand Parade or the Palace
yard, occupies the southern part of the citadel, measures
100 feet each way, surmounts the edge of the cliffs over-
hanging the Old Town on its S and E sides, and is
built on all its four sides. A large church, probably
of Norman date, and seemingly of fine Norman character,
long stood on the N side of tlie Grand Parade. It figures
cons[)icuously in ancient extant pictorial views of the
Castle, but was converted, after the Reformation, into
storage-rooms and armoury, and gave place, about
the middle of last century, to a plain oljlong pile of
baiTacks; which, about 1860-62, was remodelleil and em-
bellished after designs by Billings. The old Parliament
490
EDINBURGH
Hall occupies the S side of the Grand Parade. It was
a magnificent apartment, 80 feet long, 33 wide, and
27 high, and had a character similar to that of the
Parliament House in Parliament Square. It Avas
used no less for royal banquets than for meetings
of Parliament, but has been extensively subdivided, and
is now the garrison hospital. The old Royal Palace
occupies the S and E sides of the Grand Parade. It was
erected at various periods down to 1616, and was long
the residence or the retreat of the kings and queens of
Scotland. The view from it was one the most superb
to be had anywhere of the suburbs to the S of the
city. Queen Mary's room, where Queen Mary gave
birth to James YI., afterwards I. of England, in 1566,
is on the ground-floor, at the SE corner, and has an
irregular form and length of less than 9 feet. It re-
tains its original ceiling, in ornamental wooden panels,
with the initials J. E. and M. R. , and a royal crown in
alternate comjiartments ; it retains also some of the
original wainscoat panelling, interpatched with taste-
less renovations, and is open to the public. The Crown
Room is on the E side of the Grand Parade, and contains
the ancient regalia of Scotland, comprising crown,
sceptre, sword of state (presented to James IV. by Pope
Julius II.), lord treasui'er's rod, and various royal
jewels. It underwent some alterations in 1872, for im-
proved conservation and exhibition of the regalia ; and
is accessible daily to the public from 12 till 3 p.m.
The regalia had been lodged here in 1707 at the time of
the Union, but it was surmised they had been afterwards
conveyed away by stealth to London. Only when a
commission was appointed in 1818 by the Regent, were
they found to be still there, and laid open to the view
of the lieges. The Half-Moon Battery is on the E face
of the Citadel, and in front of the Grand Parade. It
was constructed in 1574 on the site of David's Tower,
overlooks the Old Town in the line of Castle Hill and
High Street, and is mounted with fourteen guns. An
electric clock and apparatus connected with the Royal
Observatory on Calton Hill discharges a time-gun here
daily at one o'clock, by means of a wire stretching
from the hill to the Castle ; and it was from behind the
flagstaff here that King George IV. and Queen Victoria
surveyed the city. The King's Bastion is on the NE
verge of the citadel, occupying the highest cliff of the
Castle rock. It forms a tier above the Argyll Battery,
commands a most gorgeous panoramic view, over the
New Town, to Ben Lomond and the Ochil Hills, and
was formerly mounted as a bomb battery. It now con-
tains only, and as a mere show-piece, the famous old
monster-gun called Mons Meg, the oldest in Europe, it
is said, save one in Lisbon, composed of thick iron bars
held together by a close series of iron hoops. It was
constructed, it is now understood, in 1455, by native
artizans, at the instance of James II. when baflled with
the siege of Th reave in Galloway, a stronghold of the
Douglases, tradition adding that certain loyal lieges
of the King, or more properly enemies of the Douglas,
contributed each a bar to its construction, and that
the name bestowed on the gun was in honour of the
wife of the smith who hammered out its ribs, and
hooped them together. It was employed by James
IV. in 1497 at the siege of Dumbarton Castle, rent
in 1682 when firing a salute in honour of the Duke
of York's visit, removed to the Tower of London in
1754, and returned to Edinburgh in 1829 by the Duko
of Wellington in response to the petition of Sir Walter
Scott. StMargaret's Chapel, behind the King's Bastion,
is the only building of the Castle of earlier date than
the 15tli century, and the oldest extant building in
Edinburgh. It was the private oratory of ilargaret, queen
of JIalcolm Ceannmor. It measures only 16i by lOi feet
within the nave ; suffered long neglect, and was for
some time used as a powder magazine ; underwent
restoration and adornment with stained-glass windows
in 1853 ; and is now used as the garrison baptistry.
An extensive suite of barracks, auxiliary to the Castle,
is situated on Johnston Terrace, with one frontage to
that thoroughfare, and another overlooking Grassmarkct.
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They were erected in 1872-73 in a style so severely plain,
as to positively disfigure the romantically picturesque
scenery among which they were planted ; but as the result
of representations respecting them made to Government
they were subjected, at a cost of about £2500, to several
ornamental structural alterations. A semi-octagon tower,
with large door-way openings and loop-holes in the
angles, and an angular or V tower with narrow loop-
holes, were introduced to the N elevation ; a large square
tower, with an open gallery carried on corbels round its
first floor, was placed in the middle of the S elevation ;
two square towers, with staircases and balconies between,
were erected at each end ; and all the towers are in quasi-
Gothic style, and finished at the top with high-pitched
roofs and iron finials. (See J. Grant's Memorials of the
Castle of Edinburgh, Edinb. 1862 ; and G. Oliver's
Guide to the Castle, Edinb. 1857.)
Holijrood, in Canongate parish, consisting of an
ancient Abbey and Eoyal Palace, stands on the E
side of a quadrangular area called the Palace-yard
close to the foot or E end of Canongate, and is within
the parliamentary boundary of the city. It originated
as an abbey in the time of David I. , and the ground
occupied by it, as well as that occupied by the burgh of
Canongate, was till that period a natural deer forest,
which extended eastward nearly as far as Musselburgh.
^Monkish legend asserts that, on Rood-day, or the
festival of the Exaltation of the Cross, King David I.
proceeded from the Castle to hunt in the forest, and
that, when in the hollow between the present site of
the Abbey and the N end of Salisbury Crags, and
separated from his retinue, the King was assailed,
unhorsed, and driven to bay by a strong vicious hart
with powerful antlers. Just at that moment a dazzling
cross, or 'holy rude,' was miraculously extended to the
King by an arm shrouded in a dark cloud, and the
sheen of this cross struck such sharp terror into the
infuriated deer that it at once turned and took to
flight. On the following night the King was ad-
monished in a dream or vision to erect and endow a
monastery on or near the spot where this happened, in
token of his supernatural deliverance ; and here accord-
ingly, it is said King David founded an Augustinian
abbey, and dedicated it to the Holy Rude. Such is the
legend which is, no doubt, a fiction invented some time
after the King's death, but the invention was probably
suggested by some unusual incident occurring during
the hunt on an annual church festival It is more pro-
bable that the Abbey owes its name to a cross, that was
fabled to contain a portion of the actual ' rude ' on
which Christ was crucified, and that had been be-
queathed to David by his mother, the pious ifargaret,
who had brought it with her to Scotland, probably as
a relic she cherished of Edward the Confessor. The
Abbey would almost seem to have been erected to guard
t his relic ; anyhow something of the sort was committed
to the care of the monks b\- David when the Abbej' was
ibtmded, and it appears to have been religiously guarded
l>y them as a talisman on which depended not only the
fortunes of the Abbey, but the fate of the country. David
II., apparently in this belief, had it carried before his
arm J' when he invaded England, but it passed ominously
into the hands of his enemies at the battle of Neville's
Cross, and was placed by them in Durham Cathedral,
where it was long preserved, both as a trophy of victory
and as an object of religious veneration.
The Abbey was founded in 1128, and was bestowed
with large revenues on the canons regular of the
Augustinian order. It was designed and built in the
grandest manner, and became very soon one of the richest
and most splendid monastic establishments in the
kingdom. The Abbey comprised lodging accommo-
dation for both poor and wealthy wayfarers, apart-
ments for royal guests, cloisters for the use of its own
monks, and a magnificent cruciform church, having all
the accessories of a cathedral — nave, transepts, and choir
— with two towers on its western front, and a great central
tower at the intersection of the nave and transepts. The
apartments for royal guests stood on the S of the
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church, and were long used in conjunction with Edin-
burgh Castle as a substitute for a royal palace, but these
eventually gave place to entirely new buildings on the
same site, represented by the present palace. The
cloisters projected from the S side of the church's
nave eastward to the S transept, but were eventually
removed to make room for extensions of the original
royal buildings, and are now traceable in only a part of
their N side. The church choir, as usual, had a
Lady chapel at its E end, and both it and the
transepts must have been of an extent and in a st3'le
corresponding with the size and elegance of the nave ;
but these were totally demolished by the English in
1543, and no trace of them is left. The nave, 148 feet
long and 66 broad, underwent improvements and re-
storations at various periods, both before and after the
destruction of the other parts of the pile ; and, with the
exception of its roof, its central tower, the spires of its
western towers, and some of the upper parts of the
walls, is still standing. A wall across its E end was
built at the Reformation to convert it into a parish
church ; it was constructed with defaced materials of the
demolished choir and transepts, and has in its centre,
between the western two of the four pillars which sup-
ported the great central tower, a large coarse window,
with muUions and quatrefoils. The cloister doorway is
still apparent on its S side, and shows beautiful
shafts and rich chevron moulding in Norman archi-
tecture. The buttresses, side ^vindows, and a doorway
on the N side were reconstructed about the middle
of the 15th century, and exhibit ornate features of the
later Gothic. Flying buttresses project from the side
walls, and have tiers of small pointed arches resting on
slender shafts. Each of the side windows was divided
into two lights by a pillar, and had a pointed arch in
each light, an embracing pointed arch on both lights, and
quati'efoil ornaments in the spandril. Most of the W
front is the unaltered work of the original builders ;
forms an exquisite specimen of the Transition Norman
architecture, with mixture of pure Norman and Early
Gothic ; displays in its great doorway surpassing beauty
of ornamentation ; and has on the face of its NW tower
an elaborately sculptured arcade, with boldly cut heads
between the arches. The ^vindows over the great door-
way, and an ornamental tablet between them, were
introduced in the time of Charles I., and have a
peculiar, yet well-decorated character.
The Abbey rose and flourished in times when mitred
abbots were more than a match for civil gi-andees, and
occasionally dared to measure their strength with kings ;
and, being situated near one of the strongest military
posts in Scotland, where the royal court had increas-
ingly frequent occasion to sojourn, it began from the
time of its completion to share with Edinburgh Castle
the honours of the seat of royal power. The members
of the royal family often lodgcil in it ; parliaments of
Robert Bruce and Edward Baliol were held in it ; James
I. and his queen loved it better than any of their own
palaces ; James II. , who was born as well as cro\vned
within its precincts, put it into close proximity to the
throne, by constituting Edinburgh the national metro-
polis ; James III. resided in it for lengthened periods ;
while James IV. and subsequent kings identified it
with the Crown by erecting and extending, in juxta-
position with it, a permanent royal palace. Charles
II. restored the nave, and converted it into a chapel
royal. A throne was then erected for the sovereign,
and twelve stalls for the Knights of the Thistle, and
the floor tessellated with variouslj'-coloured marble.
A mob, at the Revolution, in revenge for James VII.
ha^^ng used the chapel for Romish worship, unroofed,
gutted, and reduced it to a state of ruin. A restora-
tion was attempted, and a stone roof placed over it
in 1758 ; but the roof, being too heavy for the old
walls, fell in suddenly in 1768, bringing down part of
the walls, and ruining all the recent work of restora-
tion. The pile was then abandoned to neglect, and
became a crumbling ruin, choked with rubbish, till
1S16, when it was put into orderly condition ; and in
491
EDINBURGH
EDINBURGH
1857, in connection with extensive improvement
throughout the Palace-yard, was laid much better
open than before to public view.
A roj-al burying-vault was early constructed, near the
high altar, in the choir ; and after the choir was de-
molished, a new vault was constructed in the S aisle
of the nave, to receive the remains of Scottish kings
and princes which had been entombed in the old vault.
It eventually received also the remains of Mary of
Gueldres, removed to it from Old Trinity College
church; and it contains also the ashes of David II.,
James II., the queen of James II., the third son of
James IV., James V., the queen and the second son of
James V., the Duke of Albany, and Lord Darnley.
There are likewise within the walls the tombs of Hep-
burn, the last abbot of Holyrood, and of Wishart, the
biographer of the great Marquis of Montrose ; an in-
teresting recumbent statue of Lord Belhaven, the
strenuous opponent of the National Union ; and memo-
rials or remains of many other notable persons. Though
now a place of gloom and silence, it yet affects the
imagination and the heart at once by its historical
associations, its architectural features, its monuments,
and its picturesque combinations. An interior view of
it, under a cloudy sky, and especially in moonlight, is
solemnly impressive ; and exterior views of it on
the N or the E, with a large breadth of it before the
eye, and its intricate outline well-defined, are full of
character.
A charter of the Abbej', as already extant, of date
somewhere between 1143 and 1147, still exists. This
gives, among other grants, the canons the privilege of
erecting their burgh of Canongate ; one of the king's
mills of Dean, and the tenth of his other mills at Dean
and at Liberton ; and likewise the churches of Edin-
burgh Castle, St Cuthbert, Liberton, Corstorphine, and
Airth, with the priories of Blantyre in Clydesdale, St
Mary's Isle in Galloway, Rowadill in Ross, and Crusay,
Oransay, and Colunsay, in the Hebrides. The canons
also held the fishings of the Water of Leith, the privi-
lege of mills at Cauonmills, the right to certain suras of
money from the exchequer, grants of land in various
places, additional to those connected with their churches
and priories, and a right of trial by duel and of the
water and fire ordeal. Their jurisdiction was very ex-
tensive, and of a rather absolute character, if indeed the
power of protecting refugee delinquents and criminals
from punishment or interference belonged to the Abbey,
and was not rather a roj-al prerogative connected with
the Palace. The exercise of that power was known as the
right of sanctuary, and extended over all the precincts
from the Girth Cross at the foot of Canongate to the
utmost limits of the royal park. This power of sanctuary
was used, in the Romish times, for shielding every de-
scription of offender, but came afterwards to be used
only for protecting insolvent debtors, in times especi-
ally when the law gave greater powers to creditors than
it afterwards did. The refugees witliin the sanctuary
were, for a long time, pojmlarly and satirically called
'Abbey Lairds,' and were made the subject of an old
comic song, entitled The Cock Laird. A group of
old plain houses, called St Ann's Yards, was their
principal retreat. These houses stood on ground now
^vithin the enclosure on the S side of the Palace, and
figure as the scene of Sir Walter Scott's Chronicles of
the Canongate, but were demolished partly in 1850,
and wholly in 1857. NE from the Abbey is the old-
fashioned suburb of Abueyhill, wliich still contains
some curious old houses, one of these being the ancient
house of Crofl-an-Righ{i.e., King's Croft), having cor-
belled turrets and dormer windows, and having at one
time an entrance to the Abbey ; another was Clockmill
House, witliin an enclosure, and surrounded by fine old
trees, some of which still remain, but the house was
recently purchased and removed by government, and
the grounds added to the Queen's Park.
The Palace, as distinct from the Abbey, was founded
by James IV. in 1501 ; enlarged by James V. in 1528 ;
mostly destroyed, by the Englisli forces under the Earl
492
of Hertford, in 1543 ; rebuilt, on a much larger scale
and in greater splendour, in the immediately following
years ; mostly destroyed again by fire when occupied by
the soldiers of Oliver Cromwell ; and partly I'estored,
but mainly reconstructed, by Charles II. on an entirely
new plan, after designs by Sir William Bruce of
Kinross, in 1671-79. The contract for the demo-
lition of the old pile of buildings and their recon-
struction at this date has recently been discovered.
It shows that at 1671 the amount for the work was
reckoned at £4200 ; but that there was a second contract
in March 1676 for £324, and a third in July 1676 for £350.
The pile of 1528 is still represented by the northern
projecting wing of the front range of the existing
palace. The Palace erected immediately after 1544
comprised five courts : the first projecting toward the
foot of Canongate, and entering from thence through a
strong gateway flanked mth towers ; the second and
the third occupying nearly the same ground as the
present palace ; the fourth and the fifth of small size,
and situated to the S. The present Palace consists of
the small remaining part of the pile of 1528, and the en-
tire edifice of 1671-79 ; and has the form of an open quad-
rangle, enclosing a square court of 94 feet each way.
It underwent exterior renovation in 1826, interior im-
provement in 1842 ; and was entirely renewed as to the
roof of the Palace in the years 1878-80, at a cost of
about £5000. It has, all round the S, the E, and the
N sides, a uniform three-story elevation, in plain Italian
style ; presents its main front to the W ; and consists
there of centre and wings, — the centre a two-story
architectural screen, pierced with the entrance doorway,
surmounted by a balustrade and by a small clock
lantern, with an open, carved, stone cupola in form of
an imperial crown. "The wings project about 40 feet,
rising to the height of three stories, and are flanked by
circular cone-capped turrets. In its enclosed court it
exhibits an arcade-piazza basement, and three upper
ranges of fluted pilasters, successively Doric, Ionic, and
Corinthian ; shows, in the centre of the front toward
the W, a pediment charged with a large well-carved
sculpture of the royal arms ; and contains the royal
private apartments, a spacious hall, called the picture
gallery, and Queen Mary's apartments. The royal
private apartments occupy the S and the E sides, and
are reached by a grand staircase from the SE angle of the
court. They were formed on a model aggregated from
all the older royal residences in Scotland ; lay long in a
state of great neglect ; and, preparatory to the visits of
Queen Victoria, were entirely refitted in a style of much
elegance. The picture gallery is on the N ; measures
150 feet in length, 24 feet in breadth, and about 20 feet
in height ; is hung with more than one hundred alleged
portraits of reputed Scottish kings, all in barbarous
style, painted in 16S4-S6 by the Flemish artist De Witt.
There is also a remarkable triptych, painted about
1484, containing portraits of James III. and his
queen, Margaret of Denmark, believed to have been
originally an altar-piece in the church of the Holy
Trinity. This picture gallery was used by Prince
Charles Edward, in 1745, for his receptions and balls ;
and is the place where the Scottish peers elect their
representatives for parliament, and where the Lord
High Commissioner to the General Assembly of the
Church of Scotland holds his levees. Queen Mary's
apartments occupy the extant portion of the ])ile of
1528, or north-western projection of the present Palace,
entering from a stair in the NW angle of the court, and
continue in nearly the same condition as when Queen
Mary inhabited them. These apartments have such anti-
quarian associations and curious furnishings that C^luecn
Victoria, at the time of the interior improvements of
the Palace, issued a special order to leave them undis-
turbed. They include a vestibule with some dark
stains, fabled to have been made by the blood of David
Rizzio ; an audience chamber, hung with ancient tapestry,
and containing some richly-embroidered chairs, where
the famous interviews occurred between Queen Mary and
John Knox; and a bed-chamber, containing Queen
EDINBURGH
Mary's bed and portrait, and portraits of Henry YIII.
and Qnecn Elizabeth.
A critical event in the history of the Palace was the
murder of Rizzio in 1566. Few royal personages have
occnpied it since the time of Queen Marj-, and these
few only fitfully, and not much in the way of royal
administration. James VI., however, resided here for
longer or shorter periods at intervals, and he was staying
here when he received the tidings of Elizabeth's death,
and of his own accession to the throne of England. It
was in 1633 the scene of the coronation of Charles I.,
the last transaction of the kind its walls have witnessed.
James VII., before he reached the throne, when
only Duke of York, resided here in a species of exile
during the times of the Popish plot and the supremacy
of the AVhig party, and made it odious by his bigotry.
The Duke had a habit of perambulating a line of walk
in the neighbourhood within the royal park on the E,
which, from that circumstance, bore popularly the
name of the Duke's Walk. Prince Charles Edward, in
the brief period of his presence in Edinburgh, during
the rebellion of 1745, held high state in the Palace,
in such a style as greatly to delight the Scottish
Jacobites. The Duke of Cumberland, after crushing
the rebellion on the field of Culloden, and, on his
return to the S, occupied the same apartments and
the same bed in the Palace which had been occupied
by Prince Charles Edward. Charles X. of France
twice took up his abode as an exile in these apart-
ments; first, in 1795, when he was Comte d'Artois ;
and again, in 1830, when driven from his throne by
the revolution of that year. George IV., during his
brief sojourn at Dalkeith in 1822, held his levees in
the picture gallery of HoljTOod ; and Queen Victoria
made similar use of it in 1842. Queen Victoria with her
family used to spend two nights in the royal private apart-
ments of the Palace, on her way to and from Balmoral
in each of most of the years from 1850 till 1861 ; and
she occupied them during parts of three consecutive
days in October of the last of these years, along with
the Prince Consort, a short time before his death, when
he laid the foundation-stones of the new General Post
Office and the National Museum of Science and Art.
The enthusiasm of the citizens, on each of the occasions
of Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort's visits, was
fervid and universal ; great multitudes standing along
the whole route from the royal private railwa}' station
at St Margaret's to the Palace, as well as on the adjacent
heights, to greet them with shouts of lo3-alty, and make
their progress through the park an imperial ovation.
The Prince of Wales inhabited the Palace during the
session of his attendance at Edinburgh University ; and
Queen Victoria, though she ceased to frequent it for
many years after the death of Prince Albert, is now
again paj-ing occasional visits to the old Palace, and
she remained in August 1881 for three days and two
nights, on the occasion of the great review of Scottish
Volunteers.
The site of the Palace with the surrounding
grounds is low and level. It is immediatel}' E of
the convergence of the Calton and Cowgate ravines,
amid all the Old To\vn's natural drainage, and closely
adjoining the dingy and malodorous tail of the Canon-
gate ; and was for long and until lately well-nigh
choked by old erections and encumbrances on and
around the Palace-yard. A series of improvements
was commenced in 1851, and prolonged till 1862,
which eff"ected advantageous clearances, and intro-
duced or created important amenities. A spacious
carriage-way was formed from Abbeyhill southward
across the W side of the Palace-3-ard to a new entrance
into the Royal Park, this carriage-way bisecting an en-
closed area on the N side of the Palace-yard, and of the
Abbey-ruins known as Queen Mary's Garden ; another
extensive area, situatetl on the S side of the Palace, ami
partly occupied by the old dingy houses of St Ann's
Yards, was cleared and handsomely railed off and em-
bellished ; a considerable section of the iJoyal Park,
south-eastward, eastward, and north-eastward of the
EDINBURGH
Palace, was conjoined with these two areas to form a
private roj'al garden or home park, and enclosed along
the S and E sides by lofty walls ; a range of offices, com-
prising guard-house, royal mews, and other conveniences,
was erected in a castellated style along the W side of the
Palace-yard ; the surface of the j-ard and of much of the
adjacent ground was all relaid ; the drainage there and
all around was reconstructed or amended ; and a vast
amount of improvement was, at the same time, effected
on the adjacent grounds, drives, and entrances of the
Pioyal Park. A curious appendage to the Palace, in
Queen Mary's time and earlier, was a lions' den, a small
embellished enclosure adjoining one of the windows
on the N, but it has entirely disappeared. Another
curious object associated with Queen Mary's name is
a sun-dial, situated in the vicinity of the lions' den,
which still stands a few yards E of the new carriage-
way from Abbeyhill, has a graduated octagonal base,
and rises into a well-formed ornamental head. A
lodge, called Queen Marj-'s bath, formerlj' adjoined the
W entrance to Queen Mary's Garden ; it looks now, in
consequence of the bisection of the garden by the new
carriage-way, as if isolated, toward the W on the
street-line of the reach of Abbeyhill toward the foot of
Canongate, and is a small, squat, irregularl}" outlined
tower, originally ornate, but afterwards weather-worn.
When under repair about 1852, there was found, in
the sarking of its roof, a richly inlaid ancient dagger,
supposed to have been stuck there by the murderers of
Rizzio on their escape from the Palace. A series of
pointed arches in a high blank wall on the S side of
thoroughfare from the Palace-yard to Canongate, be-
longed to a Gothic porch and archway built about 1490,
and serving for some time as the outer entrance to the
Abbey. The edificed space southward from that
thoroughfare, all between the Palace-yard and Horse
Wynd, and now mainly occupied by the new guard-
house and royal mews, was the site of the ancient mint,
the offices of the chancellor, the residence of Rizzio, the
residence of Francis Lord Napier, and the ancient royal
mews. A standing sandstone statue of Queen Victoria,
on an ornamental pedestal, with sculptured groups of
figures, from the chisel of A. H. Ritchie, was erected in
the centre of tlie Palace-yard in 1850, but it was removed
in 1857. An ornamental fountain now occupies its site,
which was erected, at a cost of £1700, in 1859 after
designs by Mr Jlatheson, being a restoration of a ruined
fountain in Linlithgow Palace. It has three ranges of
statuettes, representing, in the highest range, four old
Canongate heralds ; in the middle range, Rizzio, Queen
Elizabeth, the old town drummer of Linlithgow, Lady
Crawford, the Earl of Stair, Queen Mary, Sir John Cope,
and Arabella of France ; in the lowest range, the Duke
of Sussex, George Buchanan, etc. , together with heads
of Shakespeare, Oliver Cromwell, Edward I. of England,
and other celebrated persons. (See The History of tko
Abbey, Palace, and Cha^iKl Eoyal of Holyroodhouse, with
an Account of the Sanctuary for Insolvent Debtors, Edinb.
1821 ; D. Laing's Eistoricnl Description of the Altar-piece
in the reiyn of James III. of Scotland, and hdonfjing to
Her Majesty in the Palace of Holyrood, Edinb. 1857.)
The Royal Park extends from the Palace eastward to
the vicinity of Jock's Lodge, south-eastward to Dudding-
ston, and south-south-westward to the vicinity of
Ne^nngton; com prebends Arthur's Seat, Salisbury Crags,
part of St Leonard's Hill, and a diversity of slope,
hollow, and plane around these heights. It measures,
in circumference, nearly 5 miles, and, according as the
reigning sovereign is a king or a queen, is called the
King's Park or the Queen's Park. It continued, for
ages after the erection of the Abbey, to bo natural
forest. It was first enclosed and improved liy James V. ;
received rich embellishments in the time of Queen Mary,
but lost them by devastation in the time of Cromwell ;
passed from Charles I. to Sir James Hamilton and his
heirs, who rented it off to tenants ; and, in 1844, was
re-purchased by the Crown for £30,674, put under the
management of the Commissioners of Woods and Forests,
and thereafter subjected to extensive re-improveraent.
493
EDINBURGH
A large marsli in it was drained ; rough portions of sur-
face were levelled ; unsightly objects were removed ;
portions of its plains were worked into fine sward ; and
a grand carriage -drive round all its circuit, not far from
its margin, was formed. Tliis drive passes over a great
diversity of ground ; commands, in reaches, or brief
glimpses, a splendid variety of both near and distant
views ; and, except during night or at late hours, is
freely open to the public ; the entire park, however,
also is always open to pedestrians. The park, in
fact, is practically a recreation ground for the citizens,
nor is it shut or placed under any restriction during
the presence of the Sovereign at Holyrood. A belt
of plantation was begun to be formed in the latter
part of 1870, which extends along its western border
from near the entrance at the Palace-yard to the vicinity
of St Leonard's Hill, follo\\'ing the line of carriage-drive,
and consists of elm, oak, beech, and other trees brought
from the grounds of Linlithgow Palace, and is pro-
tected by a light iron-railing. The question has often
been discussed whether clumjis and belts of trees would
embellish Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags, or whether
they would not rather mar the bold, salient, and strik-
ing features of these grand romantic heights.
Parliament Square. — Parliament Close, the original
of Parliament Square, took its name from the erection in
1631-36 of the Parliament House. It comprised only a
small area on the S side of St Giles' Church, communi-
cating by narrow passages with High Street and Lawn-
market ; and is, even in its present form, and under its
present name of Parliament Square, not much longer
than St Giles' Church, and scarcely half as broad as it is
long. The space occupied by it, together with more
on the southward slope, open to the Cowgate, was at first
a burying-ground, the most ancient of any note in the
city, which had at length, on its lower part, a chapel
of the Holy Rood, and, at its NW corner, the residences
of the St Giles clergy, and it was used exclusively as
such till the end of the 16th century, at which time —
in 1566 it was, by gift of Queen Mary — the public
burying-place was transferred to the neighbourhood of
Greyfriars' monastery across the valley, under the name
ere long of the Greyfriars' Churchyard. About that time
it became a pedestrian thoroughfare, a public lounge for
the lackey sort mainly, and a place of crowded resort
noisy with litigants. It was used, in 1617, as the scene
of a splendid banquet to James VI., on occasion of his re-
turn to Scotland ; and, about the time of the erection of
the Parliament House, was largelj' appropriated by a hete-
rogeneous array of buildings, devoted variously to trade,
law business, and civil administration. A congeries of low
booths, in particular, was constructed along so much of
it as to leave only narrow openings past the ends of St
Giles' Church ; and this, except what continued for long
after to cluster around the wall of St Giles', was soon
superseded by a curious and very lofty range of build-
ings, which was more or less destroyed by great fires in
1676, 1700, and 1824, and afterwards either modified in
its own structure, or succeeded liy new buildings. A
description of it as it existed in its most characteristic
period, says : ' On the S was a tenement towering to
the clouds, containing above a dozen stories, all densely
peopled by a respectable class of citizens ; on the E was
a land v.itli a piazza walk under which was situated
John's Coffee House, the resort of Dr Pitcairn and other
wits of the day ; and further on were the shops of the
principal jewellers and booksellers, wherein were wont to
congregate daily the great and learned of the land.'
On the E side of the square stood John's Coffee Plouse,
Sir AVilliam Forbes's Bank, and the printshop of
Kay, the delineator of the famous Portraits. Now,
however, the square is a quiet dignified recess ; has,
on the northern part of its E side, tlie i)olicc buildings,
and in the northern part of the W side, the end facade
of the Signet library ; and is edificed, on the rest of the
E and W sides, and along all the S side, by a uniform
facade on the buildings of the Exchequer Office, the
Court of Session, and the Parliamrnt House.
The police buildings present a northeni elevation to
494
EDINBURGH
High Street, and a western one to Parliament Square ;
they were erected in 1849, in plain, neat Italian style,
with little of ornamental feature, and Avere enlarged
and improved in 1875 at a cost of nearly £3000. They
had previously a plain main entrance from High Street,
and now have it from Parliament Square ; and are very
extensive, and contain excellent accommodation for the
ordinary police business, and for courts, collecting, and
superintendence. The uniform range of facade, belong-
ing to the Exchequer Office and the Court of Session, is
partly the original front of modern buildings, and partly
a new front to old ones. Its basement story is 20 feet
high, rusticated and pierced ^vith semicircular arches so
as to form arcade-piazzas ; its central part projects several
feet, and is surmounted by a handsome hexastyle Doric
portico ; its two retiring portions, instead of being
angles, are curves ; these portions, together with portions
of the E side and the W side, have columns and open
galleries uniform with those of the portico, and support-
ing a continuous cornice ; and the crown of the entire
wall is surmounted by a balustrade and six sphinxes.
The portion formerly occupied by the Union Bank at
the E corner, it is now proposed to utilise as an addi-
tional court-room for jury trials, and partly to provide
better accommodation for certain of the public depart-
ments, such as Her Majesty's "Work Office, etc. ; ofiices
will also be provided here for the Under Secretary of
State for Scotland. The Court of Session buildings
occupy large portions of both the S and the W sides of
the square, and extend far back on the slope toward the
S ; have a height of 40 feet in the front and of 60 feet in
the rear, a breadth of 60 feet at the narrowest part and
of 98 feet at the ■\\-idest part, and a total length of 133
feet. They were mainly erected in 1631-40 at a cost of
£14,600, receiving their present front in 1808 ; cannot
now be distinguished in front from the contiguous
modern buildings, but are markedly distinguishable and
very salient in the rear. They have undergone, at various
periods, some additions and extensive renovations or
alterations ; and they include the court-room of the
High Court of Justiciary, large modern elegant court-
rooms of the First and Second Divisions of the Court of
Session, smaller court-rooms of the Lords Ordinary, and
the great hall of Parliament House.
The great hall was the principal portion of the erection
of 1631-40, costing £11,600 ; it was built for the use
of Parliament, which had previously held its sittings in
the Tolbooth, and served that purpose till the Union in
1707. It was long detached from the other buildings,
having an open area to the E and the S ; with very plain
walls, surmounted by an ornate parapet, and flanked by
ogee-roofed turrets, and was furnished with a throne
for the sovereign, seats for the peers and bishops, forms
for county and burgh representatives, a pulpit for the
use of preachers, and a small gallery for the accommo-
dation of visitors. This hall is now an almost unfur-
nished area, serving as a waiting-room for the practi-
tioners of the courts, a magnificent promenade, and a
lounge for visitors ; and exhibits, during session, a scene
of great bustle and animation. It had, for a long time,
fittings at its sides for the business of the Lords Ordinary ;
communicates, at the S end, with all the present court-
rooms ; retains the dimensions and some of the features
which belonged to it in the times of the Scottish
parliament ; and measures 122 feet in length and 49
in breadth and 60 in height. It has a beautiful oak
floor and ruof — the latter arched and trussed similarly
to the roof of Westminster Hall ; is pierced, on the
W side, by four windows, much imjiroved in 1870 ;
has, in the S end, a large ornamental window of
stained-glass, by Kaulbach, inserted at a cost of about
£2500, rej)resenting the foundation of the Court by
James V. in 1532 ; contains statues of Lords Forbes,
Melville, Blair, Dundas, Boyle, Jeffrey, and Cockburn ;
and was the scene of three splendid banquets — the first,
in 1056, to General Monk and his officers — the second,
in IGSO, to James, Duke of York, afterwards James VII.
— tliu third, in 1822, to George IV. The statue of Lord
President Forbes of Culloden is by Roubillac, and waa
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erected in 1752 ; represents the judge in his robes rest-
ing on his left arm and uplifting his right ; and is an
exquisite work of art. The statue of the first Viscount
Melville in white marble was erected in 1811, and is by
Chantrey. That of Lord President Blair was also erected
in 1811, and is likewise by Chantrey, but wants grace-
fulness in disposition ; that of Lord President Dundas,
in 1819, a recumbent figure, also by Chantrey ; of
Lord President Boyle, in 1841, which is by Steell ; of
Lord Jeffrey, in 1850, likewise by Steell ; and that of
Lord Cockburn, in 1854, by Brodie. The hall con-
tains also fine portraits of Lord Advocate Dundas, Lord
Justice-Clerk Hope, Lords Robertson, Colonsay, Aber-
cromb}^, and of Professor Bell ; also a full length por-
trait of Lord Brougham, as chancellor of the university,
by Macnee.
The Advocates Library occupies a group of buildings,
partly beneath the ParKament House, partly projecting
westward from it, has rear-fronts towards George IV.
Bridge, with access thence, and is accessible also by
flights of steps from a door at the NW curve of Parlia-
ment Square. Erected with reference solely to accom-
modation, and without any proper puljlic frontage, the
librarj- stood here originally amid a mass of narrow
old lanes, on ground much lower than that of the
open area of Parliament Square. It presents to George
IV. Bridge a somewhat unsightly appearance, though
that is relieved by modern decoration ; and it has long
been designed to have an elegant extension, with main
frontage and grand entrance in that quarter. It includes
two noble and \cvy elegant rooms, on different floors,
with busts or other sculptures of George II., Baron
Hume, Lord Erskine, Lord Jeffre)^, Lord Rutherfurd,
and Sir Walter Scott, and with portraits of Sir George
Mackenzie, Lord Presidents Spottiswood, Forbes, and
Lockhart, as well as other famous lawyers. The library
originally occupied apartments in a gi-oup of lofty old
houses in the south-eastern vicinity of Parliament
Square, where the library was founded by Sir George
Mackenzie in 1682, and where it made a narrow escape
from utter destruction bj' a gi-eat fire. It is one of five
libraries entitled to a copy of every book published in
Great Britain; contains upwards of 250,000 printed
volumes, about 2000 manuscripts, and a varied collection
of literary curiosities. Of these there may be mentioned
a maifuscript Bible of St Jerome's translation, believed
to have been written in the eleventh century, and kno^Ti
to have been used as the conventual copy in the abbey of
Dunfermline ; a copy, in two volumes, of the first printed
Bible by Faust and Guttenburg, printed in bold black
letter, and supposed to be worth over £3000 ; the
Gospels, in the Tamul language, written upon dried
leaves or weeds ; five parchment copies, in MS. , of
the National Covenant of 1638, with the actual signa-
tures of Rothes, Montrose, Loudon, and others ; letters
of Mary Queen of Scots ; the AVoodrow manuscripts ;
the first stereotype plates ; the original manuscript of
Waverley, ancient classics, etc. Among the chief
librarians have been Thomas Ruddiman, David Hume,
Adam Ferguson, Dr Irving, and Samuel Halkett , and
it is very liberally accessible to visitors. That part of
the library beneath the Parliament House included at
one time the Star Chamber and a State prison, and was
long called the Laigh Parliament House. It comprised
several apartments, all inconvenient, dark, and ill-
ventilated, but these underwent sweeping improvement
in 1870-71, and are now all one hall, measuring about
130 feet in length, 45 in width, and 20 in height, divided
from end to end along the centre by a series of plain
optagon stone piers with intermediate arches.
The Sigiut Library adjoins Parliament House on the
N, and extends to the W. It presents uniform eleva-
tions, in the Grecian style, of two stories, to Parlia-
ment Square and County Square ; has a lower apart-
ment, 170 feet long, 40 wide, and 22 high, with two
rows of Corinthian pillars and open arches dividing it
into unequal sections ; and includes a splendid staircase,
adorned with busts and portraits of eminent lawyers,
leading to an upper hall of magnificent character, pro-
EDINBUBGH
bably the largest and most superb of its kind in Scot-
land, erected at a cost of £25,000, which belonged
once to the Faculty of Advocates, but passed from them
by purchase. The library contains about 65, 800 volumes,
exclusive of pamphlets and tracts ; it was begun to be
collected about the middle of last century ; and is pecu-
liarly rich in works on topography, antiquities, bio-
graphy, and British and Irish history. It is maintained
entirely by the contributions of the "Writers to the
Queen's Signet ; and, like the Advocates Librarj-, is liber-
ally accessible to visitors. Its upper ajiartment measures
142 feet in length and 42 in breadtli, has a richly-
panelled arched ceiling, supported by 24 pillars and 36
pilasters in Corinthian style, and is divided by the pillars
into three compartments, the central one crowned by a
cupola. It is enriched with oil-paintings of Apollo, the
Muses, and well-known historians, ^jhilosophers, and
poets, and was used as a drawing-room by George IV.
on the day of the banquet in Parliament House. For
about forty j-ears the venerable scholar, the late David
Laing, was its chief librarian.
Judicial Buildings. — A gloomy edifice which .served
successively as a parliament hall, a justiciary court, and
a metropolitan prison, stood along the junction of High
Street and Lawnmarket ; extended, in oblong form, from
E to W ; and was separated from the northern house -
line by a roadway 14 feet wide, and from the N"\V comer
of St Giles' Church by a narrow lane for pedestrians.
It eventually bore the name of Old Tolbooth, and figures
in one of the most famous of Sir AValter Scott's novels as
the 'Heart of Midlothian.' It comprised three structures
— eastern, middle, and western ; and, on account of its
greatly obstructing the thoroughfare, was all demolished
in 1817, the gate, with the keys, being given to Sir
Walter Scott, and placed by him in Abbotsford. The
eastern structure was built about 1468 ; consisted of a
massive square tower of polished stone, with four main
stories and an attic, and with a spiral stair ; had a char-
acter resembling a strong Border fortalice ; and was origi-
nally the residence of the dean or provost of St Giles' col-
legiate church- The middle structure was buUt in 1561,
by order of Queen Mary, on the site of an ancient tol-
booth ; was a plain oblong pile of rubble work ; and,
like the eastern structure, had four main stories and an
attic. The western structure was built at a much later
period ; was of comparatively small size, and only two
stories high ; and had a flat roof for public executions.
The eastern structure, from first to last the chief scene
of historical interest, formed, in the 16th century, the
scene of the councils of state, the supreme courts of
justice, and several great parliaments ; was the place of
the queen's councils, in 1572, at the period of her
sharpest contest ^vith her nobles ; witnessed, in 1596,
the origination of the tumult which drove the king from
the city ; and was afterwards used as a lower prison for
debtors, an upper prison for criminals, and a surmounting
strong box for the worst of convicts. The gi'ound floor
of nearly the entire pile was eventually converted into
shops, and the upper parts of the middle structure came
to be used mainly as a debtor's prison. The central
part of the site is now indicated b)- the figure of a heart
in the causeway.
The County HaU stands at right angles with the
western extremity of the Signet Library, and presents a
main front to County Square, an ornamental side front
to Lawnmarket, and (beuig erected while tall tenements
screened it to the W) a very plain rear front to George
IV. Bridge. It was built in 1817, after a design by
Archibald Elliot, at a cost of £15,000. The main front
wasmodelled after the temple of Erectheus at Athens; has
a main entrance from a lofty and very broad platform,
reached by a flight of steps ; and is adorned with four
large, fine, fluted columns, surmounted In' a pediment.
The court-room measures 43^ feet in length, 29 in
width, and 26 in height, and has a gallery at the S
end. The room for the county meetings measures 50
feet in length, 26i in width, and 26 in height, and is
very handsome. In the hall is a statue by Chantrey of
Lord Chief Baron Dundas. The Sheriff-Court Buildings
495
EDINBURGH
stand on the E side of George IV. Bridge immediately N
of the bridge's open arches ; were erected in 1866-68, after
designs by David Bryce, at a cost of more than
£44,000 ; are in the Italian style, with considerable
ornature ; have a very lofty rear elevation, and an
imposing front one ; and contain ample accommodation
for the sheriff's court and for the olficcs of the various
functionaries. The City Council-Eoom and the Burgh
Court-Room are in the Royal Exchange buildings.
Exchanges. — The Royal Exchange stands on the N
side of High Street, nearly opposite the E end of St
Giles' Church. The foundation-stone having been laid
with full masonic honours, by Provost Drummond as
grand-master, on the 13th of September 1753, it was,
after some delay, completed in 1/61 at a cost of
£31,457, and occasioned the removal of several ancient
lanes and ruinous houses. It has the form of an
open quadrangle, or of a square Avith open court, and
measures 111 feet from E to "W, 182 feet from S to N,
and 86 feet by 96 in the open court, and stands on such
a slope northward that, while the end parts in its
front elevation have a height of 60 feet, all the rear
elevation has a height of 100 feet. The S side, ex-
cept at the ends, that is, co-extensively with the breadth
of the court, consists of a range of seven archways,
about 25 feet high, adorned with balustrade and vases,
and roofed with a platform. The central archway is
open, and forms the entrance to the court ; but the
other archways are built up and constructed into shops.
Two wings extend northward from the end of the arch-
ways, are 60 feet high on the street-line, and have a
length of 131 feet to the front line of the main building
in rear of the court. The building is faced at the base-
ment by an arcade-piazza; rises into view from the street
over the front range with archway ; and is adorned in its
central part with four Corinthian pilasters, surmounted
by a pediment, sculptured with the city arms. The
edifice contains the City Council Chamber, the Lord
Provost's apartments, the Burgh Court-Room, and a
variety of offices connected with the public affairs of
the city ; it has a hanging stair 20 feet square and 60
feet deep, ascending to its upper floors ; and, in 1871,
underwent extensive interior alterations — improving
the chief apartments. The ancient convention of royal
burghs holds its sittings in the Council Chamber yearly.
This convention, which is now little other than a Cham-
ber of Commerce, is a representative assembly, consist-
ing of two deputies from each burgh, and is presided
over by the Lord Provost for the time being. A pro-
posal was made in the early part of 1871 to reface, in
an ornamental stj-le, the N front of the edifice, so as to
improve its dingy appearance as seen from the New
Town ; but this was not carried into effect.
The Corn Exchange stands on the S side of the Grass-
market, towards the W end ; was erected in 1849, after a
design by Mr Cousin, at a cost of nearly £20,000 ; and
is a massive and elegant structure in the Italian style,
well suited to its .site and uses. Its facade comprises a
main front of three stories, 98 feet long and 60 feet high,
and two small wings recessed 13 feet from the line of the
main front, both of them containing staircases, and the
western one surmounted by a bell-tower. The doorway
is adorned with two rustic Doric columns ; the windows
have ornate mouldings, and are varied in design in all
the three stories. The portion of the edifice equal in
height to the fa9ade extends only so far as to contain
the vestibule ; and the main part for business, in which
the sample-bags of grain are ranged in line for inspection,
extends to the rear over a distance of 152 feet. It has an
elevation and an outline similar to those of a railway
station ; and is lighted entirely from the roof, in a triple
arrangement of patent tile-glass, supported by two rows
of metal pillars. The Corn Exchange is often used for
great public meetings, political, municipal, and mis-
cellaneous.
Banks.— The Bank of Scotland, established in 1695,
stands terraced on the northern slope of the Old Town
hill. It presents its entrance-front, or rather the middle
portions of that front, to the S extension of Bank Street,
496
EDINBURGH
looking toward George IV. Bridge, and its rear-front,
rising from a lofty arched substructure, conspicuously
and picturesquely, to East Princes Street Gardens con-
tributiug an additional feature to the Old Town, being
seen from most of Princes Street. It was originally
built in 1806, after a design by Richard Crichton, at a
cost of £75,000, and underwent restoration, reconstruc-
tion, and an addition to the extent of two wings in
1868-70, after designs by David Brj-ce. It is in the
Italian style, originally somewhat plain, but now highly
ornate ; and comprises campanile towers, a great central
dome, and surmounting pieces of statuary. It has, on
the apex of its central dome, a gi'aceful but diminutive-
looking figure of Fame, cast in zinc, and gilt, and
measures 175 feet in length of fagade, 55 feet in height
of its front fagade, 90 i'eet in height of its campanile
towers, and 112 feet in total height from the pavement
at its front in Bank Street to the top of its dome.
The new Union Bank, built in lieu of former premises
below the Exchequer Chambers in Parliament Square,
stands on the S side of George Street, a little E of
Frederick Street. It was erected near the end of 1874 ; is
in ornate Italian style, after designs by David Br)^ce ;
and with a frontage of more than 100 feet, extends back-
ward to Rose Street Lane. It rises from a sunk basement
to a height of three stories, cro^vned with attics ; is
screened from the pavement by a handsome stone
balustrade ; presents three Ionic porticos at separate en-
trances ; shows, on the first and the second floors,
ranges of nine windows, each flanked with richly-headed
pilasters, and sui'mounted by a triangular pediment ; and
terminates, on the wall head, in a bold cornice, support-
ing a balustrade. It contains a magnificent telling-room,
fully 80 feet long and nearly 50 wide ; and is arranged,
through all the interior, in a style of commodious
elegance. The Clydesdale Bank stands at the E corner
of George Street and North Hanover Street, with its
principal front to George Street, but a longer front to
North Hanover Street. It was erected in 1842 for the
Edinburgh and Glasgow Bank, now extinct ; is adorned
with Corinthian pillars and pilasters, and with hand-
some stone balcony ; and has an elegant and commodious
interior. The Commercial Bank, established in 1810,
stands on the S side of George Street, midway between
Hanover Street and St Andrew Square ; was built in
1847 after designs by David Rhind ; and has a fagade
95 feet long, with profusely decorated windows, and a
superb Corinthian portico. It is entered through a
lofty spacious vestibule, surrounded by a gallerj',
adorned with tiers resting on Ionic columns, and
lighted from a panelled roof, supported by Corinthian
columns rising in the same line with the columns sup-
porting the gallery ; and has a telling-room 90 feet long
and 50 wide, with dome roof supported by Corinthian
columns, the entire entablature and dome enriched with
flowing ornaments in alto-relief. The portico on the
fagade rises from the platform of a flight of steps, with
6 fluted columns 35 feet high, and with bold, graceful,
well-relieved capitals ; the entablature is 9 feet broad ;
the pediment measures 15i feet from base to apex ; and
the tympanum is filled with a sculptural embodiment
in high relief, from the chisel of A. Handyside
Ritchie, of commercial, manufacturing, and agricultural
enterprise. The group of statuary comprises a central
figure of Caledonia on a pedestal, supported at the sides
by figures of Prudence, Ceres, Agriculture, Commerce,
Enterprise, Manufactures, Mechanical Science, and
Learning ; this group is also figured on the notes of
the Bank.
The National Bank, established in 1825, stands
on the E side of St Andrew Square, at the corner of
"West Register Street. It was originally a large private
mansion, one of the earliest aristocratic structures of
the New Town ; underwent rearward enlargement in
1868 ; and is exteriorly a plain edifice, but interiorly
commodious and handsome. The British Linen Com-
pany's Bank, established in 1746, stands on the E side
of St Andrew Square, immediately N of the National
Bank ; was built in 1852, after designs by David Bryce,
EDINBURGH
at a cost of £30,000 ; anJ is a magnificent edifice, in a
rich variety of the Palladian style. Its front shows a
rusticated basement storj' and two upper stories, and is
about 60 feet high. The windows of the basement
story are plain ; those of the second story have decorated
pediments and carved trusses, the tympanums filled
^vith sculpture ; while those of the third story have small
balconies supported on carved consoles and massive
wreaths of ash-leaves, suspended by rosettes at the top
of the architraves. Six fluted Corinthian columns rise
from the basement to the height of about 31 feet, inclu-
sive of their pedestals ; and all stand in individual
isolation, like those of the triumphal arches at Rome.
A balustrade, about 4 feet high, on the top of the base-
ment cornice, runs between the pedestals. The entabla-
ture of the columns is about 7 feet high, has a finely
sculptured frieze in alto-relief, and is recessed from the
sides of each column to nearly the face of the wall. Six
statues, each 8 feet high, from the chisel of A. H. Ritchie,
representing Agriculture, Llechanics, Architecture, In-
dustry, Commerce, and Navigation, stand on the entabla-
ture over the columns. A balustrade, about 7 feet high,
on the top of the wall, perpendicular with its face, runs
behind the statues. The interior of the building is
entered by a flight of steps, and by a lobby 15 feet wide.
The telling-room is a splendid cruciform saloon, 74 feet
by 69, lighted by a cupola 30 feet in diameter, and 50
feet high. The floor is a brilliant mosaic of encaustic
tiles ; the roof is supported by eight Corinthian columns
and twenty-four Corinthian pUasters, their pedestals of
marble, their shafts of polished Peterhead syenite, their
capitals of bronze ; and a panelled arrangement beneath
the cupola contains allegorical figures of Mechanics,
Science, Poetry, and History, and busts of the founder of
the Bank of England, George Buchanan, Adam Smith,
Fletcher of Saltoun, Lord Kames, Dr Duncan, Xapier
of Merchiston, Sir Walter Scott, Professor "Wilson,
Renuie, Watt, and Wilkie. The proprietors' room
is in the second story, and measures 54 feet in
length, 22 in breadth, and 18^ in height. The
Eoyal Bank, established in 1727, stands at the head of
an enclosed and paved recess on the E side of St Andrew
Square, immediately N of the British Linen Com-
pany's Bank, and directly confronting George Street.
It was originally the town mansion of Sir Lawrence
Dundas, the ancestor of the Earl of Zetland ; was built,
after a design by Sir William Chambers, on the model
of a villa near Rome ; and passed by sale to the Board
of Trade, and afterwards to the Royal Bank. It presents
a neat front, with four Corinthian pilasters, surmounted
bj' a pediment, with a sculpture of the royal arms. All
the banks have sub-offices in different parts throughout
the whole city.
Insurance Offices. — The Life Association Office stands
m Princes Street, nearly opposite the Mound, and was
built in 1855-58. It is a splendid edifice, rising to the
height of three double stories, each with main lights
and attics, and having a -u^dth proportionate to its
height ; and looks, at first sight, as if covered all over
its fa9ade with colonnades and sculptures. The basement
story is in rusticated Doric, and has a grand central
archway, the second is Ionic, and the third Corin-
thian ; the basement story being divided from the
second, and the second from the third, by a cornice and
a balustrade. Both of the upper stories have ranges of
columns between the windows, and pairs of small pillars
adjoining the sides of the main lights ; and these lights
are recessed and arched, and have spaces over them
filled with elaborate sculptures. Only a part of the
edifice is occupied by the Life Association ; and the rest
is disposed in shops, a hotel, and rented offices. The
Scottish Widows' Fund Life Assurance Oflice is on
the W side of St Andrew Square, at the corner of Rose
Street. It was built in 1843 by the Western Bank Com-
pany, stood a considerable time unoccupied after that
Company's failure in 1857, and was then sold to its
present owners at a price greatly below its original
cost. It is a large, elegant, symmetrical edifice in the
Florentine style, with screen balustrade, neat porch,
32
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handsome window-mouldings, and heavy projecting
roof. The Scottish Provident Institution, on tho
S side of St Andrew Square, a little E of St David
Street, was erected in 1867, and is an elegant edifice
in Italian style. The Standard Insurance Company'.s
Office, on the N side of George Street, near St Andrew
Square, has a neat attached Corinthian portico,
showing on the tympanum a group of sculpture by
Steele, representing the parable of the Ten Virgins.
The Caledonian Insurance Company's Office stands in
the same line of street a little further W, and has four
beautiful Corinthian columns, with massive entablature.
The Edinburgh Life Insurance Company's Oflfice is on
the S side of George Street, a little E of Hanover Street,
and was formerly partly occupied by the Antiquarian
Museum. It has Doric features and two porches in its
basement story, Corinthian features in its second story,
and a massive cornice and a balustrade on its summit.
The North British and Mercantile Insurance Company's
Office stands in Princes Street, to the E of Hanover
Street, and has a neat, projected basement story, sur-
mounted by a statue of St Andrew with his cross. The
Scottish Union and National Insurance Company occupy
the handsome building formerly used as Douglas' Hotel
in St Andrew Square. There are no fewer than about
SO other insurance offices, many, however, being merely
branches, having their headquarters elsewhere, but some
of their buildings are highly ornamental.
Post Office. — The Post Office occupied formerly part of
the buildings on the S side of Waterloo Place, con-
tiguous to the E side of Regent Bridge, and was distin-
guished from the other adjoining edifices mainly by a
spacious open porch, and by being surmounted with a
a sculpture in relief of the royal arms. It was built in
1819 at a cost of £15,000 ; underwent sweeping changes
in the interior of its basement story after its relin-
quishment for post office uses, and is now occupied as
an hotel. The new Post Oflice stands at the E corner of
Princes Street and North Bridge, and occupies the sites of
the old Theatre Royal and of Shakespeare Square. The
foundation-stone was laid on 23 Oct. 1861 by the late
Prince Consort, almost the last public act of his life ; and
it was opened for business in May 1866. It cost, inclusive
of the site, about £120,000, and is a magnificent edifice,
in a moderately rich type of the Italian style, after
designs by Robert Matheson. It forms an imperfect
quadrangle ; measures 140 feet in breadth from E to W,
160 along the E side, and 180 in length along the W
side ; includes a central open area, measuring 54 feet by
30 ; and has three exposed fronts toward respectively
the N, the W, and the S. The N front, toward Princes
Street, is the principal one, and contains the public
entrance ; faces a pavement 43 feet wide, composed of
large beautiful slabs, with a broad flight of outside steps
ascending to a chastely decorated vestibule, measuring
34 feet by 32 ; and consists of a recessed centre two
stories high, and massive tower-like wings three stories
high. The recessed centre is pierced with three lofty
circular-headed arches, resting on massive piers, and
giving entrance to the vestibule ; has, on each side of
the basement story, a window of a character corresponding
to the entrance arches ; shows, in the upper story, five
windows with balustrades in front, and ■with alternately
circular and angular pediments ; and is decorated with
single Corinthian columns, flanking the windows. The
basement story of each wing is rusticated, and contains
three richly moulded circular-headed windows ; the
second story rises over an enriched belt course, contains
in each of the exposed sides three balustraded windows
with alternately circular and angular pediments, and is
adorned with pairs of Corinthian columns flanking the
central window, and surmounted by a massive circular
pediment extending into the third story ; and the third
story has circular-headed windows, with moulded archi-
traves and imposts, and divided by pairs of pilasters.
The W front is entirely similar to the N front, with
the exception that it has no vestibule. The S
front is recessed like the N and the W fronts, but is
three stories high from the street-line, and, in consc-
497
EDINBURGH
quence of rapid slope of the site, rises 125 feet in height
from the foundation ; so that, as seen from below the
bridge, it presents a very commanding appearance. A
massive cornice and balustrades surmount all the three
fronts, and the balustrades are intersected at intervals
by pedestals supporting ornamental vases. The number
of Corinthian columns on the N and W fronts is 68 ;
each being 16 feet high, and consisting of a single stone.
The interior contains spacious saloons and numerous
apartments, constructed in excellent adaptation to the
business of the office ; is everywhere well lighted and
ventilated ; and has ample accommodation, not only for
the present business of the office, but also for almost
any increase which may eventually arise. There are
3 branch offices, with working staffs, at 71 George
Street, 2 Lynedoch Place, and 41 South Clerk Street;
and there are also throughout the city nearly 80 pillar
posts and receiving offices, of the latter of which about
15 are telegraph stations, and 30 money order and
savings' bank offices.
A Telephonic Company has its head office in Frederick
Street, Avith several branch stations throughout the city.
Jlcgister House. — The General Register House of Scot-
land not only contains the registers of sasines, inhibi-
tions, and adjudications, but also the national records,
the official writings of the clerks and extractors of the
Court of Session, Jury Court, Court of Justiciary, the
Great and Privy Seal, the Chancery, the Lord Lyon's
office, and of the Bill Chamber, and the duplicate regis-
trations of births, marriages, and deaths. The ancient
national records were destroyed by Edward L and by
Cromwell ; while those of later date, prior to the building
of the Register House, were almost inaccessible, lay con-
stantly exposed to risk of destruction by fire, and suffered
much injury from damp. The Register House was erected
both for the safe keeping of these records and for the
depositing of property documents, in such arrangement
that they could be promptly found when wanted. The
records of the proceedings in suits determined by the Court
of Session to the year 1868, and the original deeds and
protests registered for preservation till that year, occu-
pied the shelving of twenty-one distinct apartments in
the Register House, and were likely to accumulate in
increasing ratio ; while the volumes containing other
records affecting property, chiefly folios, amounted in
the same year to no fewer than 42,835, and it was anti-
cipated that they would have an annual average increase
of not fewer than 490. The general register of sasines
began on 1 Jan. 1869 to be conducted on a new an-ange-
ment, comprising so many as thirty -five separate series.
The Register House, till 1860, was only one building,
but it now includes two additional ones, comijleted in
respectively 1860 and 1871. The original Register
House stands at the E end of Princes Street, opposite
North Bridge ; was built partly in 1774-76, partly in
1822-26, after designs by Robert Adam, in tlio Italian
style, and cost about £80,000. An elegant curtain
wall, on each side of a central, spacious, double flight
of steps, divides a space in front of it from the street ;
it stood originally at a distance of 40 feet from the
facade, but was brought nearer and considerably im-
proved, in 1850. The double flight of steps has hand-
some balustrades, and leads up to the principal entrance.
The front of the edifice is 200 feet long, has a basement
story mostly concealed by the structures in front of it,
and two uj>per stories full in view, and is ornamented
from end to end with a beautiful Corinthian entabla-
ture. It projects slightly in its central portion, and is
adorned there with four Corintliian pilasters surmounted
by a pediment, in fonn of an attached portico ; has, in
the tympanum of the ])cdiment, a sculpture of the roj'al
arms ; and is crowned, in a slightly projecting part at
each end, by a clock-turret, terminating in a cupola and
vane. The two flanks, E and W, are of the same length
as the front, but liave little ornament. A circular court
is in the centre of the edifice, measures 50 feet in
diameter, and is surmounted or canopied by a dome ;
and a saloon is there, 50 feet in diameter, balconied all
round with a railed gallery, sending off communications
498
EDINBURGH
into 23 subordinate departments, and lighted from the
top bj- a window 15 feet in diameter. The rest of the
interior is partly arranged into nearly 100 small arched
apartments on each of the upper floors, leading off from
long corridors ; and also containing small rooms for the
use of functionaries connected with the supreme courts,
and larger apartments for the stowage of registers. A
statue of George III., in white marble, by the Hon.
Mrs Damer, is in a recess of the dome. The second
Register House stands immediately behind the original
one, partly in direct rear of it, partly fronting the
thoroughfare of "West Register Street. It was erected
in 1857-60 at a cost of £26,440, and is approached and
entered through a railed enclosure from West Register
Street. It forms a quadrangular pile, much smaller
than the original edifice, but in a similar style of
architecture, though considerably more ornate ; and is
mainly occupied with the department of duplicate regis-
trations of births, marriages, and deaths. The third
edifice stands behind the first, and to the E of the
second, and cannot well be seen except from East
Register Street. It is connected with the first by a
stone corridor, 40 feet in length, and was erected in
1869-71, after a design by Mr Matheson, at a cost of
about £8000. It serves entirely for record volumes, and
is a cu'cular structure, 55 feet in diameter and 65 in
height, surmounted by a dome, and lighted entirely from
windows in the dome. Eight massive piers, at regular
intervals, project from the general line of the exterior
wall ; a dado course divides the elevation into lower
and upper sections ; the projecting piers in the lower
section are rusticated, and the interspaces are plain ;
both the piers and the interspaces in the upper section
are relieved with deeply moulded panelling ; a cornice
and a balustrade go round the wall head ; and the dome
rises thence to the height of 20 feet, and is divided
into panelled compartments, corresponding to those of
the walls.
Friions. — The Old Tolbooth, demolished in 1817, has
already been noticed in the section on judicial buildings.
A guard-house erected in the time of Charles II. for the
Old Town guard, ■ndtli a dungeon or black -hole at its
W end ibr the incarceration of unruly persons, stood on
the S si le of the upper part of High Street. It presented
an unsightly appearance, being a huge structure encum-
bering the thoroughfare; yet, not\vithstanding its ugli-
ness and obstructiveness, it was not taken down till about
the 5'ear 1787. A small prison of modern date, called
the Lock-up, stands contiguous to the rear of Parliament
House, and was occupied by criTuinals tlie night before
their execution. It was remodelled and legalised in 1857,
and serves chiefly as an adjunct to the Justiciary Court
for the temporary accommodation of criminals at the time
of their trial, and it is not permitted to detain any one
in it longer than ten days at a time. The main prison
stands on the SW shoulder of Calton Hill, extemling
from the E end of the S side of Waterloo Place, along
Regent Road, occupying the crown of a clitt" overhang-
ing the North Back of Canongate, and on the site of the
batteries used against the forces of Queen Mary's party
in 1571. They comprise three groups of buildings,
erected at different dates, within separate enclosures,
for separate purposes, but now within one enclosure
in communication with each other, and all under one
management. They are in different varieties of the castel-
lated Norman style, and exhibit massive features of gate-
way, turrets, and towers. They combine grandly with
tlie cliffs and acclivities beneath and above them ; and,
whether seen downward from the crown of Calton Hill,
horizontally from the level of Regent Road, or upward
from the lower parts of Canongate and the Queen's
Park, present an imposing and picturesque appearance.
The western gi-oup was built, as the town and coimty
jail in 1815-17, and is entered by a massive arch-
way, flanked by low, round towers, and surmounted
by a platform. It contains, in the jjarts adjacent
to the entrance, apartments for the turnkeys, and
beyond an intervening area, the jail proper, extending
194 feet from W to E, and 40 feet from N to S, ami
EDINBURGH
rising in the centre and at the ends in the form of
broad massive towers. It includes, behind the lower
fiat, a number of small airing-yards, separated by high
walls, and radiating backward to a point where all are
overlooked by a small octagonal watch-house ; and has,
at the southern extremity, behind a small area of flower
plots, the governor's house, surmounted by a castellated
round tower, and perched on the edge of a precipice
overhanging the Old To\vn. The middle group was
built, as the Town and County Bridewell, in 1791-96,
and was entered by a plain archway, now disused. It
has, adjacent to the entrance, a neat battlemented
structure, formerly the governor's house ; and, in its
main building or jail proper, stands E and W in the
same manner' as the town and county jaiL It is of
similar size to that structure, but in a ruder style, and
with crow-step gables ; presents to the S a semicircular
form ; is largely disposed in workshops, and has such
interior arrangement, that all these can be surveyed
from an apartment in the governor's house without the
observer being himself seen. The eastern gi'oup was
buUt, as the Debtor's JaU, in 1S45-47, but since the
passing of the Act abolishing imprisonment for debt,
it has formed part of the jail proper. A massive gateway,
though not in use, faces the E, doubly flanked b)' square
towers ; and has near the entrance several massive
towers, all higher than those at the sides of the gate-
way, but differing from one another in height, breadth,
and form. It extends in ranges in line with the maia
structures of the other two groups ; expands, at the
ends, in the form of xeij broad, massive towers ; and,
as seen from most points of view, especially from the
Queen's Park, looks not unlike a romantic citadel or
a baronial hall. Plans for a reconstruction and re-
aiTangement of Edinburgh prison have been sanctioned
by Government, and the work was expected to begin in
the spring of 1882.
Places of Amusement. — The old Theatre Royal stood
at the E corner of Princes Street and North Bridge. It
was built in 1769 at a cost of about £5000, and had
flanks and rear as plain as those of a barn, but the front
to the N had a piazza-porch and some sculptures. It
was demolished in 1860-61 to give place to the new
Post Office. The Adelphi Theatre stood at the comer of
Broughton Street and Little King Street, where both
these thoroughfares join the head of Leith Walk. It
was used chiefly in summer while the Eoyal Theatre was
shut, had no kind of architectural ornamentation, and
was burned in 1853. The Queen's Theatre and Opera
House occuxjied the site of the Adelphi ; it was erected
in 1856, showed little exterior ornament, and was
burned in 1865. The new Theatre Royal occupies the
same site, and was erected, after designs by David Mac-
gibbon, immediately after the destruction of the Queen's
Theatre ; it has an elevation to Broughton Sti-eet of an
Italian tetrastyle portico, decorated pilasters, arched
windows, and a frieze ; was designed to have, in niches
of that elevation, allegorical statues of Tragedy, Comedy,
Music, and Dancing ; presents to Little King Street a
plain wall, sparsely pierced with windows ; but was gutted
by fire in Feb. 1875. It was restored in the later months
of the same year, underwent improved internal arrange-
ments, with some increase of accommodation, in the
course of the restoration, and was reopened in Jan. 1876.
It now contains sittings for 2300 persons. The Royal
Princess Theatre stands on the E side of Nicolson
Street, nearly opposite Nicolson Square, being con-
sti'ucted, in 1862, out of previous buildings. It has no
frontage or proper structure of its own, but is entered
partly by a long lobby from Nicolson Street, partly by
a stairway from a contiguous thoroughfare ; and contains
accommodation for about 1500 persons. The Gaiety
Theatre or Music Hall is in Chambers Street, at the
back of a building near the E end, and is entered
through the groimd-floor of the building in front. It
is not very far from the site of the house in which Sir
"Walter Scott was born. It was erected in 1875 ; has a
handsome interior, adorned with Corinthian pilasters
and a bust of Scott j and contains about 1200 sittings,
EDINBURGH
having been interiorly renovated and re-decorated in
1881. Entering from the W side of Nicolson Street
by a covered way leading to a recess between South Col-
lege Street and Nicolson Square, is a large building
which has passed through many different phases as a
place of public amusement. It was known some years
ago as the Southminster Theatre ; but was burned down
in the spring of 1875, and reconstructed and reopened
before the close of the same year at a cost of nearly
£10,000. It has a plain exterior, but commodious in-
terior, and is variously and intermittently occupied as
circus, panorama, and music hall. Another building,
used very much in a similar way, stands, with very
ordinary frontages to Grindlay and Cornwall Streets,
off Castle Terrace.
The Assembly Rooms are on the S side of George
Street, midway between Hanover Street and Frederick
Street ; were buUt in 1787 by subscription ; and have
a plain Italian front, with a tetrastyle Doric portico,
on a rusticated piazza basement, over which has
recently been added a projection to give room for an
orchestra, which detracts somewhat from the appear-
ance of the building. It contains a principal room
92 feet long, 42 wide, and 40 high, and other apart-
ments, both commodious and elegant ; and underwent
considerable improvement in 1871. The Music Hall
is in the rear of the Assembly Rooms ; it is acces-
sible by the same entrance, and extends back to Rose
Street ; was built in 1843, after a design by Messrs
Bum & Bryce, at a cost of more than £10,000 ;
and contains a principal apartment 108 feet long
and 91 feet wide, with richly panelled ceiling and
shallow central dome, an orchestra large enough for
several hundred performers, and a large organ built by
Hill of London. It is much used for great public
meetings — political, municipal, religious, and miscel-
laneous. The Calton Convening Room on the N side
of Waterloo Place, the Waverley Hall on its S side, the
Masonic Hall on the S side of George Street, a little E
of Castle Street, the Oddfellows' Hall in Forrest Road,
and some other halls are likewise occasional places of
amusement. Within a portion of the Waverley Market
there is an aquarium, with seal-pond, and various other
attractions.
Short's Observatory stands on Castle Hill, at the E
side of the head of Ramsay Lane, having superseded a
slender structure of 1835 for a similar purpose on
Calton Hill. It was erected in 1847 ; is a substantial,
lofty stone edifice, terminating in a tower overlook-
ing most of the city, and commanding a magnificent
panoramic view ; was remodelled and extensively re-
fitted about 1869 ; and contains a camera obscura,
powerful telescopes, a splendid collection of micro-
scopes, some other scientific apparatus, and a number
of miscellaneous attractions. — The Eoyal Patent Gym-
nasium occupies a large space on the N side of Fettes
Row and Royal Crescent, was opened in April 1865
in the presence of the magistrates, the councillors,
and numerous principal inhabitants of Edinburgh and
Leith, and underwent enlargements and improvements
in subsequent j-ears. It includes an extensive exhibition
hall, erected in 1868 ; contains a velocipede merry-go-
round, 160 feet in circumference ; a gigantic see-saw,
100 feet long ; a compound pendulum swing, holding
about 100 persons ; extensive ponds with supply of
small boats and canoes ; a ti-aining bicycle course, with
supply of bicycles, and grounds for foot-races.
Monuments. — An equestrian statue of Charles II. is
in the centre of Parliament Square, which was cast
in Holland in 1685 of lead, afterwards bronzed, at a re-
markably small cost. It is a figure, in design and general
effect, equal to that of many admired statues in Great
Britain ; and surmounts a handsome pedestal, containing
two marble tablets with inscriptions which read as
if they were meant to be ironical. There is a
bronze statue of the Duke of York, second son of
George III., on the NW border of the Castle Espla-
nade ; it was executed by the sculptor Campbell,
and erected in 1839. A monument to the memory
499
EDINBITEGH
of the men of the 78th Hii:jhland Regiment (Havelock's
heroes), who fell in conflict with the Indian mutineers
\a 1857-5S, stands on the NE border of the Castle
Esplanade ; was erected by the surviving ofiicers and
soldiers of the regiment, and has the form of a Runic
cross ; and close by there is a memorial cross to Colonel
Stewart of the Cameron Highlanders. A sitting sand-
stone statue of James Watt surmounts the projecting
porch of the New School of Arts in Chambers Street.
It stood originally on a granite pedestal in Adam Square,
and was erected there in 1853 ; but in common with
the old School of Art5 directly behind it, was removed
thence in 1873 in the course of the formation of Cham-
bers Street.
A bronze statue of George IV. , by Chantrey, is at the
intersection of George Street by Hanover Street, erected
in 1832, and mounted on a gi-anite pedestal ; it exhibits
the monarch in a strikingh- affected attitude. A similar
statue of "William Pitt, also by Chantrey, at the inter-
section of the same street by Frederick Sti-eet, was
erected in 1833 ; it possesses considerable dignity of
expres.«ion. Another of the Rev. Dr Chalmers, by
Steell, erected in 1876, is in the same thoroughfare
at the intersection by Castle Street. A bronze statue,
by Steell, of the second Viscount Meh-ille, is in Mel-
ville Street, at the central point where the street
expands into a double crescent; it was erected in 1857,
and stands on a sandstone pedestal. A Doric column,
after Trajan's at Rome, to the first Viscount Melville,
stands in the centre of St Andrew Square. It was con-
structed in 1821-23, after a design by Mr Bum, at
a cost of £8000, and consists of basement, pillar, and
statue by Forrest, rising to the aggregate height of
150 feet. The basement is square and massive, and
adorned with some beautiful architectural devices ; the
pillar is fluted, diminishes in diameter from 12 feet 2
inches at the bottom to lOi feet at the top, and contains
a spiral staircase, lighted by almost imperceptible slits
in the fluting; the statue is 14 feet high, but looks
from any points of the neighbouring thoroughfares to
be only life-size. A bronze monument of General
Sir John Hope, afterwards fourth Earl of Hopetoun,
who succeeded to the command of the British army
after the death of General Sir John Moore at Corunna,
is within the recess in front of the Royal Bank ; it was
executed by Campbell, and erected in 1835, represents
the General in Roman costume, leaning on a charger
pawing the pedestal, and has inscriptions commemora-
tive of his military exploits.
A colossal statue of Queen Victoria surmounts the
front of the Royal Institution, looking up South Han-
over Street ; it is in grey sandstone, and was sculptured
by Steell, in 1844. It shows the Queen in a sitting
posture, with a mural crown encircling the brow ;
and, being flanked at near distance by finely sculptured
sphinxes from the chisel of the same artist, has an im-
posing effect. A white marble statue of Allau Ramsay,
by Steell, is in the XE corner of West Princes Street
Gardens, a few paces from the Royal Institution ; it
was erected in 1865 at the expense of the late Lord
ilurray, a relation of Ramsay, and rests on a pedestal
decorated with medallions of Lord [Murray, the wife of
the poet's son Allan, a grandson of the poet, and Lady
Campbell and Mrs Malcolm, the poet's grand-daughters.
A bronze statue of Professor Wilson, also by Steell,
is in the NW comer of East Princes Street Gardens,
a few paces E of the Royal Institution ; it was
erected at the same time as Ramsay's statue, is of
colossal size, on a sjTnmetrical pedestal, and represents
well the 'lion-like' form of 'Christopher North.' A
sitting bronze statue of Professor Simpson, by W. Brodie,
was erected in 1877 on a spot W of the Ramsay statue ;
it represents the professor in academic robes, lecturing to
his students ; is about twice the size of life ; and, with
inclusion of its pedestal, rises to the height of nearly 20
feet from the ground. A bronze statue of Adam Black,
by J. Hutchison, is erected on a spot a little E of the Scott
Monument ; being preceded, in Mr Black's lifetime, by
a bust of him, by the same artist, for the hall of the
500
EDINBURGH
Philosophical Institution. A bronze statue of the
African explorer, Dr Livingstone, by Mrs D. 0. Hill,
was erected in 1876, on a spot a little E of Sir Walter
Scott's Monument, in line with those of Wilson and
Black.
Sir Walter Scott's Monument stands on the esplanade
of East Princes Street Gardens, opposite St David Street ;
was erected in 1840-44, after designs by George M. Kemp,
at a cost of £15,650. It is a cruciform Gothic spire, chiefly
modelled on the details of Melrose Abbey ; and includes
beneath its basement arches, a Carrara marble sitting
statue of Scott by Steell, costing £2000, and inaugurated
in 1846. Four grand basement arches are connected to-
gether exactly in the same manner as those beneath tho
central tower of a crucifomi Gothic cathedral. Four
other grand arches spring diagonally from the outer side
of the piers of these arches, and rest on strong, octagonal,
buttressed exterior piers, which are surmounted by
turret-pinnacles. Elegant pierced flying buttresses
ascend from the inner side of the base of these pin-
nacles, and from the end of a pierced horizontal parapet
over the contiguous spandrils, to the middle of the
second stage of the monument. A contracting series of
galleries, arches, turrets, and pinnacles soars aloft from
the summit of the four grand basement arches, stage
above stage, till it attains a height of about 200 feet
from the ground, and terminates there in a finial. The
capitals, mouldings, niches, parapets, crochetings, and
other ornaments are in the same style of decorated Gothic
and on the same pattern as those of Melrose Abbey. A
stair of 287 steps ascends to within a few feet of the top,
and reveals there a most magnificent bird's-eye view of
the city. In each front of the main basement, above
the archivolt and in the parapet, are nine small niches ;
and in the exterior piers, in the turret-pinnacles above
them, and in the prominent parts of the second stage,
are so many more as to make a total of fift5'-six within
clear view from the ground. Figures of the principal
characters in Scott's poems and novels were originally
intended to occupy all the niches, and 4 of these were
forthcoming at the erection of the monument, 1 more
ten years after, 27 statuettes, and 16 likenesses of
Scottish poets in 1874 ; 8 medallions in 1876 — all these
greatly enhancing the beauty and interest of the whole.
One of the best statuettes is reckoned to be that of Diana
Vernon, on the outside niche of the SE pier, the work
of George Lawson. Flights of steps from the ground,
on all the four sides, converge to a platform beneath the
four grand basement arches. The statue of Sir Walter
is on a pedestal at the centre of that platform, and repre-
sents him in a characteristic attitude, attended by his
dog Maida. It was cut from a block of marble weighing
upwards of 30 tons, and is well-formed and harmonious;
but, though large in itself, is so disproportioned to the
spacious lofty vault around it as to look relatively small
and almost dwarfish. The statuettes on the monument
rei)resent the Lady of the Lake, the Last Minstrel, Prince
Charles Edward, and Meg Merrilies on respectively the
S, the W, the N, and the E of the main basement ;
Mause Headrigg, Dominie Sampson, Meg Dodds, and
Dandie Dinmont on respectively the S, the W, the N,
and the E of the fourth gallery ; James VI. , Magnus
Troil, and Halbert Glendinning on the upper tier of the
SW buttress ; Minnie Troil, George Heriot, and Bailie
Nicol Jarvie on the lower tier of the SW buttress ; Amy
Robsart, the Earl of Leicester, and Baron Bradwardine on
the upper tier of the NW buttress ; Hal o' the Wynd,
the Glee Maiden, and Edith of Lorn on the lower tier
of the NW buttress ; Edie Ochiltree, Robert Bruce, and
Old Mortality on the upper tier of the NE buttress ;
Flora M'lvor, Jeanie Deans, and the Laird of Dumbie-
dykes on the lower tier of the NE buttress ; Saladin,
Friar Tuck, and Richard dj&ur de Lion on the upper
tier of the SE buttress ; and the Jewess Rebecca,
Diana Vernon, and Queen Mary on the lower tier of the
SE buttress. The likenesses of Scottish poets are on
the capitals of the pilasters supporting the vaulted roof;
and represent James Hogg, Robert Burns, Robert Fer-
gusson, and Allan Ramsay on the W front ; George
EDINBURGH
Buchanan, Sir David Lindsay, Robert Tannahill, and
Lord Byron on the S front ; Tobias Smollett, James
Beattie, James Thomson, and John Home on the E
front; Queen Mary, King James L, King James V. ,
and Drummond of Hawthornden on the N front. The
medallions are ranged in pairs, in spandrils between the
panels of the walls, and they represent the heads of
John Knox, James V., George Buchanan, James VL,
Queen ilary, Charles L, Regent Moray, and the Mar-
quis of Montrose. Thirty-two additional statues and
statuettes were added in 1882, and are the work of
various sculptors. Among these later additions are
figures of Oliver Cromwell, Helen ilacgregor, Madge
Wildfire, Sir Piercie Shafton, John Knox, the Fair Maid
of Perth, the Dougal Cratur, Ravenswood, David Deans,
etc. , and they range from 6 feet to 3 feet in height. It
should be added that the upper part of the monument,
though designed by Kemp in perfect harmony with all
the rest, and though figuring in that harmony in almost
all the prints of it which have been published, was
elongated from its fair proportions by order of the com-
mittee who superintended the erection, solely for the
paltry reason of making it be better seen from the near
vicinity. Mr George M. Kemp, the architect, was a
self-made artist, who travelled through Europe studying
Gothic architecture, supporting himself the while by
working as an ordinary stone mason. He did not live
to see the completion of the work, having been acciden-
tally drowned while it was proceeding. The galleries
contain many relics and curiosities relating to Sir
Walter Scott.
Burns' Monument is on the S side of Regent Road,
260 yards eastward of the Prison ; it crowns a rock 10
feet higher than the level of the roadway, and overlooks
all the valley of the Canongate and the Queen's Park.
It was erected in 1830 after a design by Thomas Hamil-
ton ; is a circular temple of florid character, with
Corinthian cyclostyle of twelve columns raised on a
quadrangular base, and surmounted by a cupola in
imitation of the monument of Lysicrates at Athens,
supporting a tripod with winged fabulous creatures ;
and contains a bust of Burns by W. Brodie, and a
number of interesting relics of the poet. A marble
statue of Burns by Flaxman stood formerly in the
monument ; but was removed first to the library-hall of
the CoUege and next to the National Gallery. A
monument to Dugald Stewart, the distinguished Scottish
philosopher, was erected on the AV face of Calton
Hill, overlooking Waterloo Place, in 1831, after a
design by W. H. Playfair ; is in the style of a Grecian
temple, partly copied from the Choragic monument
of Lysicrates ; and has a high basement, an open in-
terior, a beautiful funereal urn, a rich entablature,
and a cupolar canopy. Professor Playfair's monument
stands on the same face of Calton Hill, higher up, at
the SE corner of the New Observatory ; was erected
also after a design by W. H. Playfair, the professor's
nephew ; and is a solid Doric structure of small dimen-
sions, but great purity of style.
Lord Nelson's ]\Ionument surmounts a cliff" towards
the SW corner of Calton Hill, on a line with Princes
Street, and figures conspicuously in almost every view
of the city. It was founded soon after Lord Nelson's
death, but not completed till 1815, and it comprises
an octagonal battlemented basement, containing several
rooms, a spacious, circular, embattled tower of four
stories, a circular embattled turret of one story,
and a surmounting time-ball and flagstaff. Rising to
the height of 102 feet from the ground, and 450 feet
above sea-level, it commands from the parapets of
its tower and turret an extension of the magnificent
paroramic view which is seen from the walks round the
brows of the hill. The entrance is surmounted by an
inscription tablet, the crest of Nelson, and sculpture in
bas-relief, representing the stern of the San Juaef ; the
interior contains a camera obscura, a solar microscope,
telescopes, panoramic paintings, an autograph of Nelson,
and various curiosities connected with liis name and
exploits. On its summit is a time-ball, with a diameter
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of b\ feet, erected in 1852 to regulate the chronometers
of the vessels at Leith and Granton. It is raised by
machinery every day a little before one to the height of
15 feet, and falls exactly at the hour bj'' a drop which
acts in connection with an electric-clock in the adjoin-
ing Royal Observatory, a wire attached conveying, at
the same time, an electric current to the time-gun in
the Castle. The National Monument crowns a knoll of
the Calton Hill, a little to the N of Nelson's monu-
ment, being projected in 1816 to commemorate the
Scottish heroes — naval and military — who fell in the
wars with Napoleon Bonaparte, and designed to be a
copy of the Parthenon at Athens, on a scale to cost
£50,000. Planned by W. H. Playfair, and promising
to reflect the highest credit on his genius, it was
founded in 1822 during George IV. 's visit to Edin-
burgh, and began to be built in 1824 ; but, in conse-
quence of failure in funds, it was never constructed
further than the erection of twelve columns, with base-
ment and architrave. The columns are large, fluted,
and beautifully proportioned ; cost upwards of £1000
each, and were designed to form the western range of
the entire structure ; and, except for their looking like
the mere fragment of a stupendous ruin, they would
produce a striking eff"ect. Various projects have been sug-
gested at different times, and some magnificent proffers
of liberality have been made, either to get the monu-
ment completed according to the original design, or to
incorporate it in some other architectural conception,
but all have hitherto proved abortive.
The Duke of Wellington's Monument is a bronze
equestrian statue by Steell, on a pedestal of Peterhead
syenite in front of the Register House ; and it was in-
augurated on 18 June 1852. The pedestal is 13 feet
high, and very plain ; the statue, nearly 14 feet high,
containing about 12 tons of metal, and cost £10,000.
The horse is rearing under the curb, as if pulled sud-
denly up when in full gallop, while the rider sits erect
and calm, holding in his left hand the horse's reins and
his plumed hat, and seeming, by the gesture of his right
hand and by the expression of his countenance, to be
issuing some command connected with the evolutions
of a battle. The weight of the entire figure rests on the
horse's hind legs and tail ; and it demanded great skill
to distribute the metal through the parts in such a way
as to produce a secure equipoise. The Duke not only
sat to the artist for his portrait, but also rode to him,
so as to give him exact ideas of his style of horseman-
ship. The inauguration of the Wellington statue took
place in the midst of a violent thunderstorm, which gave
origin to the following epigram: —
' 'Mid lightning''s flash and thunders deafening peal,
Behold the Iron Duke, in bronze, by Steell I*
The Prince Consort's Monument stands in the centre
of Charlotte Square, and is a very elaborate and magni-
ficent structure, a period of fuUy thirteen years elapsing
between its conception and its completion in August
1876. It was designed by Steell, and executed mainly
by him, but partly also by Brodie, Stanton, Mac-
callum, and Stevenson. While the artists were
busy, the question as to the most suitable site for it,
whether on the pavement in front of the new Post Office,
in a recess opposite the Industrial JIuseum, in the
Queen's Park behind Holyrood, or in some one of
eight or nine other places, was long and keenly de-
bated, and was not decided in favour of Charlotte
Square till 1871. The monument rises from a platform
of Peterhead syenite, forms three stages, has a total
height of 35 feet, and stands in full view throughout
the length of George Street. The platform measures 20
feet by"20, and is enriched with bas-reliefs and groups
of statuary ; the first stage is about 4 feet high, and has
at each angle a square projection, surmounted by a
group of figures ; the second stage has its sides covered
with quotations from the Prince Consort's public
speeches ; and the third stage is richly moulded,
exhibits bronze bas-reliefs— the larger ones showing
the marriage of the Queen and the opening of the
501
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Great Exhibition of 1851, while the two lesser panels
illustrate the domestic and artistic tastes of the Prince
Consort. The colossal equestrian statue of the Prince
is in the uniform of a field-marshal. The groups of
statuary on the first stage represent 'labour,' by Mac-
callum and Stevenson; the 'services,' by Clark Stan-
ton ; ' learning and science,' by Stevenson ; and the
fourth group by Brodie shows the nobility otfering their
homage to the Prince ; while a group of emblematic
objects resting on the ledge formed by the projection of
the second stage beyond the third represents the Prince's
honours and pursuits.
A monument to Miss Catherine Sinclair is at the E
end of Queen Street, opposite St Colme Street ; was
erected in 1868 ; and has the form of an elegant Eleanor
cross. David Hume's monument is a mausoleum in the
High Calton burying-ground, a few yards W of the
Prison, and surmo'unfing the cliff overhanging the junc-
tion of Low Calton and North Back of Canongate. It
is a dark, low circular tower, open at the top ; and
figures conspicuously in various views from the Old
Town. The Political Martyrs' monument, to the
memory of Muir, Palmer, Skirving, and others who
suffered banishment in 1794 for their efforts in the
cause of political reform, is in the vicinity of Hi;me's
monument. It was erected in 1845, and is a plain,
lofty, conspicuous obelisk. Visible from the street,
under the western arcade of the University, is the white
marble statue of Sir David Brewster, the late principal
of the university. Close by St John's Episcopal Church,
and fronting Princes Street, is a memorial Ionic cross,
\vith medallions, erected in honour of Dean Ramsay,
for many years incumbent of St John's, and more
widely known for his Reminiscences of Scottish Life and
Character. The Rev. Dr Dickson's monument and that
of Mr Jamieson has been already noticed iu the section on
St Cuthbert's. A monument in the Greyfriars' burying-
ground, though possessing no attractions as a work of art,
is intensely interesting as commemorating the martyrs
of the Covenant executed at Edinburgh during the
twenty-seven years preceding the Revolution, ilulti-
tudes of monuments in the several burying-gi'ounds,
particularly in the newer ones, display much beauty ;
while not a few, such as those of Dr Chalmers, Hugh
Miller, Sir Andrew Agnew, and Dr Guthrie, in the
Grange cemetery ; Lords Jeffrey and Cockburn, and
many other celebrities, in the Dean ; Alexander Smith,
the poet. Sir James Simpson, and others in Warriston
— possess intense interest for their associations.
Extinct Civil Edifices. — The ancient City Cross stood
on the thoroughfare of High Street, opposite the site of
the Royal Exchange. It was the place for state pro-
clamations, the scene both of festive celebrations and
of special executions, and it consisted of a basement
building and a surmounting pillar. The basement build-
ing was octagonal, measured 16 feet in diameter and 15
feet in height, and was in a mixed style of Gothic and
Grecian. It had, at each corner, an Ionic pillar, sur-
mounted by a mimic Gothic bastion ; showed between
each two pillars a semicircular arch, and between each
two bastions a medallion sculpture ; was pierced, on
the E side, by a door, giving ingress to a staircase
leading to its summit ; and was roofed by a plat-
form. The surmounting pillar rose from the centre of
the platform, measured 18 inches in diameter and 15
feet in height, had a Corinthian capital decorated with
thistles, and was crowned by a unicorn embracing an
upright spear of nearly twice its own length. The
entire structure was removed, in 1617, to make way for
the procession of James VI. on his first visit to Scotland
after his accession to the English throne, was afterwards
rebuilt, in an inferior style, on a spot a few paces from
its original site, but, on account of its obstructing the
thoroughfare, was finally removed in 1756. A number
of the ornamental stones are preserved at Abbotsford ;
and the surmounting pillar long stood on the lawn of
Drum House near Gilmerton. It was returned to
the city in 1869, and re-erected, on a new pedestal,
within the railings on the N side of St Giles' Church,
502
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but, instead of the unicorn originally belonging to it, it
has a new one carved in 1869. An octagonal figure in
the causeway marks the spot on which the cross stood
prior to 1756, bears the name of Market Cross, and is
the place at which all royal proclamations are still
made. It is thus Sir Walter Scott, whose own monu-
mental cross is now the grandest structure of its class
in the world, expresses his regi'et over the demolition
of the city cross —
' Dunedin's cross, a pillar'd stone.
Rose on a turret octagon.
But now is razed tliatnionument
Whence royal edict rang,
And voice of Scotland's law was sent
In glorious trumpet clang.
Oh ! be his tomb as lead to lead ;
Upon its dull destroyer's head
A minstrel's malison is said.'
The ancient Weigh-house stood on the thoroughfare at
the head of Lawnmarket and "West Bow, and was a hand-
some edifice, surmounted by a neat spire. It combined
with the City Cross, the spire of St Giles' Church, and
the spire of the ISTetherbow gatewaj', to give the line of
High Street a picturesqueness of appearance greatly
superior to what it now possesses ; but it was demolished
by Cromwell in 1650. Another AVeigh-house, on the
site of the ancient one, was erected in 1660, of an un-
gainly form, often called the Butter Tron, to distin-
guish it from a weigh beam in the central part of High
Street, called the Salt Tron. It served the Jacobite
army, in 1745, as a military post for blockading the
Castle ; and was demolished in 1S22, in the course of
preparation for the public reception of George IV. The
Luckenbooths extended eastward between Lawnmarket
and High Street, from the Old Tolbooth to the
vicinity of the City Cross, being separated from St Giles'
Church by a lane for pedestrians. They consisted prin-
cipally of lofty houses, with timber fronts and project-
ing peaked gables ; were erected, probably in the time
of James III., to serve for shops and warehouses ; and
were demolished in 1817. The lane between them and
St Giles' was lined on both sides with shops ; those on
the S side adhering like excrescences to the walls of the
church, began to be erected in 1555, and were called the
Krames. A flight of steps led from the E end of that
lane, past St Giles' Church, called St Mary's Steps, re-
ceiving that name from a statue of the Virgin Mary
in a niche on its W side. Another lane, called the Old
Kirk Style, led through the middle of the Luckenbooths
to a porch, now extinct, in the northern part of St Giles'
Church, and was the scene of the murder, in 1525, of
Maclellan of Bombie by the lairds of Drumlanrig and
Lochinvar. The easternmost house of the Luckenbooths
was much less ancient than the others, and contained
a famous publishing establishment, occupied in 1725
and subsequent years by Allan Ramsay, and from 1775
till 1815 by William Creech, twice lord provost of the
city. The Black Turnpike stood immediately W of the
site of the Tron Church, partly on ground now leading
into Hunter Square, partly on ground now other\nse
occupied. It was a large, stately, lieautiful structure, one
of the most remarkable in High Street ; and was erected
about the beginning of the 15th century, but popularly
regarded as having been built near the end of the 10th
century by King Kenneth III. It was the town man-
sion of Sir Simon Preston, provost of Edinburgh in
1567, and was the place of Queen Mary's incarceration
on the day of her capture at Carberry Hill, and also
during the last night she spent in Edinburgh. The
Darien House, an oblong edifice, in the French style,
with high pitched roof, stood close by the City Wall,
on the W side of Bristo Place, being erected in 1698 as
offices in connection with the famous and disastrous
scheme for Scottish colonisation on the Isthmus of
Darien, It came to be used as a pauper lunatic asylum,
and was, as such, the deathplace of the poet Fergusson.
It formed a curiously picturesque relic of its time, and
was taken down in 1871. Other extinct edifices have
been noticed in previous sections, and some will be
noticed in the sequel.
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The University. — The University of Edinburgh was
founded in 1582 by James VI. The edifice it originally
occupied belonged, first to the Collegiate Church of St
Jlary in the Fields, and next to the Earl of Arran.
The Church of St ]\lary in the Fields appears to have
been founded in the 15th century, and stood, as its name
implies, originally outside the City "Walls ; but was in-
cluded within the extension-wall of 1513 ; occupying
ground now partly covered by the south-eastern por-
tion of the present University buildings, and partly
forming the present street area thence to the NW
corner of Drummond Street. It was a large cruciform
edifice, surmounted by a lofty central tower, and ad-
joined by residences for its clergy ; was served by a
provost, S prebendaries, and 2 choristers ; was the
meeting-place of the Scottish ecclesiastics, convoked by
the papal nuncio Bagimont to ascertain the value of
benefices throughoiit the kingdom ; and acquired an
infamous notoriety from its provost's house being the
scene, in 1567, of the murder of Lord Darnley. Por-
tions of its buildings were appropriated in 1582 for the
uses of the Universitj'', and other portions were swept
away. The University portions were enlarged, in 1617,
by additions containing a common hall and several
class-rooms ; but these were both unsightly and incom-
modious, and part eventually became ruinous. A re-
solution was come to, after the middle of last century, to
sell part of the University's property, and raise public
subscriptions, for the erection of an entirely new edifice,
of great extent and magnificence ; and that resolution
Issued in the realisation of about £32,000. The new
edifice was founded in 1789 ; was designed to have the
form of a hollow parallelogram ; was carried on till the
funds became exhausted ; and then consisted of only the
front or E part of the designed parallelogram. That part
became immediately available for the University, but
formed a striking contrast to the old, plain, weather-
worn stnictures which required to be retained ; and it long
stood in a condition of hopelessness as to the probability
of its ever becoming winged with the other elevations of
the original plan. In 1815, however, an act of parlia-
ment was obtained, allotting £10,000 a j-ear to the
further construction of the edifice till it was completed.
The original design, which had been dra"mi by Adam,
was then revised and extensively altered, particularly as
to the interior fa9ades, by W. H. Playfair. The build-
ing operations went regularly on till the N and the W
sides of the parallelogram were completed ; they then
came again to a long pause ; and, after having been once
more resumed, were brought to completion in 1834.
The last extant portion of the old buildings belonged to
the erection of 1617 ; and consisted of a small square
tower, which was taken down in 1827. (See Alex.
Bower's History of the University of Edinburgh, Edinb.
1817-30. First ed. is in 2 vols. ; the second in 3 vols.)
The edifice presents its main front to South Bridge,
and its N front to Chambers Street, and forms an
entire side of respectively West College Street and South
College Street, and measures 358 feet from E to W, and
255 feet from N to S. Its style of architecture is
Grseco-Italian, and the exterior fronts are in symmet-
rical ornamental facades, and have four stories differing
much from one another in height. Were it situated on
a rising-ground in an extensive park, it would appear
almost without a parallel among the modem edifices of
Scotland, but, standing as it does engirt with streets,
and confronted all round by lofty houses, it can be seen
only at such near successive views as to produce im-
pressions chiefly of astonishment and confusion. The
basement story is sunk and rusticated, the second
is lofty and adorned with window mouldings, the
third resembles the second, but is not so lofty or so
well adorned, and the fourth is an attic. The central
part of the main front contains the entrance, and has
three lofty archways, of which only the middle one
is for carriages. A giand Doric portico of centre and
wings adorns the entrance, the centres recessed and
having two attached columns at the sides of the car-
riage archway, the wings having each two projected
columns and covering the side archways. All the six
columns are of equal diameter and 26 feet high, and
are each formed of a single block of stone. A very
broad entablature, with a long appropriate Latin in-
scription, surmounts the portico. A massive dome
was designed by Adam to rise immediately behind tho
entablature, and to form the crowning feature of all
the main front, but it was not sanctioned in the revisal
for completing the edifice, though a sum of money
had been bequeathed by a citizen for the purpose ol
raising this dome. The N front, flanking the eastern
part of Chambers Street, extends along the whole
of what was formerly North College Street, and there
is a proposal to bring this front into harmony with
the new blocks of building lining the rest of Chambers
Street.
The interior area is reached by ascent through the
archwaj's, stands considerably higher than the exterior
level, is very spacious, and has finer architectural
features than those of the exterior fronts. A con-
tinuous platform or small paved terrace goes round
the base of the main elevations, considerably higher
than the level of the open court, is reached at intervals
by flights of steps, and both along its o^^^l lines and on
the lines of the flights of steps is adorned with hand-
some balustrades. The fronts of the main elevations
have two lofty stories, the lower one rusticated, the
upper adorned with columns ; the junctions of front
■with front are not corners but curves, containing the
entrances to most of the apartments, and the cur\'es are
filled in the lower story with arcade-piazzas, in their
upper story with open galleries supported by Ionic
columns. The E front or that containing the street
entrances is adorned with Doric columns and entabla-
ture ; the W front is fitted in the central part of its
lower story with an arcade-piazza, Avithin which is the
monument to Sir David Brewster, late principal, and is
adorned in its upper story with Corinthian attached
columns and Venetian windows ; the N and S fronts
correspond to each other, and have on their upper story
a series of Corinthian attached columns. The library
occupies both stories of the S side ; has a magnificent
principal hall, occupying the gi'eater part of the upper
story, and measuring 198 feet in length and 50 feet in
breadth; contains about 140,000 printed books and 2000
volumes of manuscript, and numerous busts and pictures
of professors and distinguished alumni. The Museum
formerly occupied a large portion of the W side, but
was removed to the adjacent Industrial Museum. The
music class-room was formerly on the same side, but
now occupies a separate building in Park Place, about
260 yards SW of the south-western corner of the
University, erected about 1856 ; and is a neat and
spacious edifice, with an appearance somewhat like that
of a church.
The University originated in a bequest of 8000 merks
by Robert Reid, Bishop of Orkney, twenty-four years
before the date of its formal foundation in 1582. It
was opened in 1583 by the amiable Professor Robert
Rollock ; did not acquire a second professorship till
1597 ; rose to have eight professorships in 1685 ; intro-
duced the study of medicine into its curriculum in the
latter part of the 17th century ; and ran thence so
brilliant a course that a mere list of its highly distin-
guished professors and alumni would be too long for
insertion within our limits. (See A Catalogue of tlie
Graduates in the Faculties of Arts, Divinity, and Law
of the University of Edinburgh since its Foundation,
edited by David Laing, and published by the Banna-
tyne Club, Edinb. 1858.) There are now seventeen
professorships in its faculty of arts, four in its faculty
of divinity, four in its faculty of law, and thirteen in its
faculty of medicine. The professorships, with the dates
of their foundations, are humanity, 1597 ; mathematics,
1679; Greek, 1708; logic and metaphysics, 1708;
moral philosophy, 1708 ; natural philosophy, 1708 ;
history, 1719 ; rhetoric and English literature, 1760 ;
practical astronomy, 1786 ; agriculture, 1790; engineer-
in'^, 1868 ; theory of music, 1839 ; Sanskrit and com-
° 503
EDINBURGH
parative pliilology, 1S62 ; geology and mineralogy,
1871 ; commercial and political economy, and mercan-
tile law, 1871 ; fine art, 1879 ; theory, practice, and
history of education, 1876 ; divinity. 1629 ; HebrcAV
and Oriental languages, 1642 ; church history, 169-4 ;
biblical criticism and biblical antiquities, 1846 ; public
law, 1707 ; civil law, 1710 ; Scots law, 1722 ; con-
veyancing, 1825 ; botany, 1676 ; institutes of medicine,
1685 ; practice of physic, 1685 ; anatomy, 1705 ; chem-
istry and chemical pharmacy, 1713 ; midwifery and
diseases of women and children, 1726 ; clinical medi-
cine, 1741 ; natural history, 1767 ; materia medica,
1768 ; clinical surgery, 1803 ; medical jurisprudence,
1807 ; surgerj', 1831 ; general pathology, 1831. The
patronage of fifteen of the chairs, and partly that of six
others, was formerly held by the town council of Edin-
burgh ; but, under the University Act of 1858, was
transferred to seven curators, four of them chosen by
the town council and three by the university court.
The patronage of the chairs of rhetoric, practical as-
tronomy, engineering, Sanskrit, geology, church history,
biblical criticism, public law, natural history, clinical
surgery, and medical jurisprudence is held by the Crown ;
that of the humanity chair by the Lords of Session,
the Faculty of Advocates, the society of Writers to the
Signet, and the curators ; that of history, civil law,
and Scotch law chairs by the Faculty of Advocates
and the curators ; that of the agriculture chair by
the Lords of Session, the University Court, and the
curators ; that of the music chair by the University
Court ; that of the commercial and political economy
chair by the Merchant Company and the curators ; that
of the conveyancing chair by the Deputy-Keeper and
Society of Writers to the Signet and the curators ; and
that of all the other chairs is held by the curators.
Robert RoUock, the first professor, took in 1585 the rank
of principal, but his successor, in his capacity of prin-
cipal, is one who does not now fill any professorial chair.
The emoluments of the principal and the professors are
derived from various sources, and are as follow, exclu-
sive of class fees, which range from two to five guineas,
according to class : — Principal £1200, with official resi-
dence ; humanity £247, 10s.. assistant £100; mathe-
matics £258, 6s. 8d., assistant £100; Greek £247,
4s. 4d. , assistant £100; logic £322, 4s. 4d. ; moral
philosophy £322, 4s. 4d. ; natural philosophy £282,
4s. 4d., assistant £100 ; rhetoric £280 ; history £170 ;
astronomy £320 ; agriculture £370 ; music £420, assist-
ant £200 ; Sanskrit £450 ; engineering £400 ; geology
£420; political economy £450; education £210; fine
arts £427, 16s. 5d. ; divinity £426, 2s. 2d. ; Hebrew
£300 ; church history £350 ; biblical criticism £630 ;
public law £250 ; civil law £250 ; Scots law £100 ;
conveyancing £105 ; botany £200 ; institutes of medi-
cine £150 ; practice of physic £100 ; chemistry £200 ;
mid\vifery£100 ; natural history £195, 15s. 2d. ; materia
medica £100, assistant £25 ; clinical surgery £100 ;
medical jurisprudence £100, assistant £25 ; surgery
£100 ; general pathology £100. There is also a con-
siderable sum allowed to various of the professors for
class expenses.
Attached to the several faculties there are nearly 70
fellowships and scholarships, tenable generally from two
to four years, and of the value variously of £20 up to
£120. Of bursaries in the arts faculty there are about
160, of the annual value of upwards of £4000 — the bur-
saries ranging from £4 to £90 ; in divinity 32, annual
value about £625, ranging from £7 to £60 ; in law 13,
annual value about £350, ranging from £19 to £30 ; in
medicine 23, annual value al)out £615, ranging from
£20 to £60. Five additional fellowships in science and
philosophy have been added (1882) to the above, and
are of tlie annual value of £100 each. They are tenable
for three years.
The chief officers of the University arc a chancellor,
chosen by the general council ; vice-chancellor, chosen
by the chancellor ; rector, chosen by the matriculated
students ; principal, chosen bj' the curators ; and five
assessors, chosen by respectively the chancellor, the
504
EDINBURGH
town council, the rector, the general council, and the
Senatus Academicus. The University Court consists of
the rector, the principal, the lord provost of Edinburgh,
and the five assessors. The Senatus Academicus consists
of the principal and the professors. The winter session,
wdiich comprehends all the faculties, opens in the be-
ginning of November, and closes for certain classes
in the beginning and for others in the end of April.
The summer session, which comprehends only the facul-
ties of law and medicine, with tutorial classes in arts,
opens in the beginning of May and closes in the end of
July. The number of students for a number of years,
till about 1S30, was generally as high as about 2000 ;
it afterwards fell till, about 1858, the number did not
average much above 800, but subsequently rose again
till it reached 1513 in 1868, 1768 in 1871, 2076 in 1875,
2617 in 1878, 2856 in 1879, 3172 in 1880 ; and there
were 3237 students in residence and on the register in
1881. The students were divided between the different
faculties in 1881 in the following proi)ortions : — Faculty
of arts, 1047 ; law, 458 ; divinity, 94 ; and medicine,
1638. The list of graduates for 1881 gave the following
results: — In arts, 97 took the degree of M.A., and 14
the degree of bachelor of science (B.Sc. ) ; in divinity, 8
took the degree of bachelor of divinity (B. D. ) ; in law,
7 took the degi'ce of bachelor of laws (LL.13. ), and 2
that of bachelor of law (B.L. ) ; in medicine, 35 took the
degi-ee of doctor of medicine (M.D.), 133 the double
degrees of bachelor of medicine and master in surgery
(M.B. and CM.), and 4 the degree of M.B. only. The
certificate of literate in arts (L.A. ) was granted to 4
successful candidates. The General Council in 1881
comprised about 4500 members. It meets twice a year,
on the first Tuesday after 14 April and on the last
Friday in October. The University of Edinburgh,
under the Reform Act of 1867, unites with the Univer-
sity of St Andrews in sending a representative to parlia-
ment, and tlie number of members who voted at the
first election in 1868 was 3263 ; in 1881, the number on
the roll was 4438 ; in 1882, 4525.
Kcio Medical Buildings. — A new suite of college build-
ings, to comprise medical class-rooms and a university
hall, to accommodate 2000 persons, was, as originally
proposed, to occupy ground opposite the old Royal
Infirmary. The removal of the latter building, how-
ever, led to a reconsideration of this proposal, and a
site was bought for the purpose at Teviot Row and Park
Place for about £30,000. The projected new buildings
were estimated to cost altogether about £200,000, and
were to include class-rooms, anatomical theatre, labora-
tories, and museums, with the latest scientific improve-
ments. The removal of these departments from the
original university buildings, it was expected, would
allow the reorganisation of the existing class-rooms, and
adapt them better to the requirements of tlie faculties of
arts, divinity, and law ; give room for a university hall
for the conferring of degrees ; and facilitate the improve-
ment of the front of the old building. The new buildings
adjoin the Meadow avenue, and are in the street line
with the new Infirmary, having their principal entrance
from Park Place, above the doorway being some fine
carved work, over which are the words, ' Surgery, Ana-
tomy, Practice of Physic' The buildings are ranged
round two large quadrangular courts, which serve the
purposes of promoting ventilation and increasing the
facilities for lighting. ' The N court, measuring 127 by
85 feet, lies parallel to Teviot Row, from which it enters
through a great central entrance, consisting of a spacious
archway for carriages and smaller arched foot passage
alongside, separated by a row of pillars. The range
of buildings on the N side of this court is intended for
tlie departments of materia medica and medical juris-
lirudence. The S court, 97 by 53 feet, is occupied at
the E end by the anatomy class-room, 58 by 42 feet,
presenting to the quadrangle a semicircular outline,
and occupying the entire height of the building, which
is 46i feet. This room is seated for 500 students, for
whose use it is fitted up with iron desks, supported with
iron stanchions. In connection with this anatomy class-
EDINBURGH
room, there are on the E side a professor's retiring-
room, 14 by 20i feet ; a work-room, 29 by 20 feet ; and
in the extreme SE corner a bone-room, 39 by 38 feet,
for tutorial purposes. Tlie anatomical museum is 112
feet long by 40 feet wide. Of the range forming the S
side of the S court, the iipper floor, measuring 108 feet
in length, 39 in -n-idth, and 27 in height, is set apart as
the dissecting-room, the roof being formed in ridges
glazed towards the N, so as to afford a steady light.
There are also six windows, 14 feet high by about 7 feet
wide, which aid both the ventilation and the lighting
of the room. Grouped conveniently at one end are
cloak-rooms and lavatory accommodation, while at the
other end are a demonstration-room, 21 by 9J feet, and
another smaller room for the demonstrator. Above this
is a private dissecting-room, 20 by 39 feet. On the floor
beneath, adjoining the anatomy class-room, there are
the microscopic-room, 40 by 17 feet, ■with N light, and
accommodation for demonstrators and assistants ; while
the remainder of the floor is set apart for laboratory and
other rooms appropriated to this department of research.
All the class-rooms are furnished with ventilating grates
and stone fenders, the arrangements generally for heat-
ing and ventilating the entire building being of a most
complete description. Nearly all the rooms have ' ex-
traction shafts,' for the purpose of carrying away the
vitiated air to the great ventilating stalk in the centre of
the buildings. This stalk rests on a square base 18 feet
wide, and rises to a height of about ISO feet. Near the
bottom it is oOJ feet in circumference, while at the top
it is contracted to 17i feet. About 150 feet from the
base there are eight ornamental openings for the outlet
of the vitiated air led into the stalk from the different
class-rooms. Up the centre runs a chimney made of
malleable iron boiler-plate, 2^ feet in diameter, which
escapes at the cone-shaped summit of the shaft ; and
which, by heating the air encircling it, produces an
efficient draught for ventilating purposes. Owing to a
fall in the ground in the S court, space is obtained for
a commodious basement below the street floor-level,
which is devoted to cellarage purposes. Here three
boilers are also fitted up — two in connection with the
heating, and the third for supplying hot water ; while
the engine-room likewise contains the accumulator for
working the various ' lifts ' in the schools. Every pre-
caution has been taken against fire, hydrants being
fitted up in every floor ; while the pipes laid through
the class-rooms rest on a concrete bottom, the covering
on the top consisting of flagstones. The buildings were
first partially opened in October 1880.
Museum of Science aiul Art. — The Industrial Museum,
or Museum of Science and Art, stands immediately
behind the University, on the S side of Chambers
Street, and occupies the site of Argyle Square, the old
Trades' Maiden Hospital, and an Independent chapel.
It was begun in the lapng of its foundation-stone by
the late Prince Consort in October 1861, and was
finished to the extent of about one -third of the whole
design, and formally opened to the public in May
1866, when it comprised a great hall 105 feet long,
70 wide, and 77 high, a natural history hall 130 feet
long, 57 wide, and 77 high, a S hall 70 feet long, 50
^vide, and 77 high, and a NE room 70 feet long and
50 wide. In 1871 it was further enlarged to the ex-
tent of more than one-third of the whole design, and
completed in the spring of 1874. It contains in that
part the continuation and completion of the great hall,
now 270 feet long, a refreshment hall 50 feet long and
30 wide, an eastern annexe 62 feet long and 50 wide, a
western annexe 85 feet long and 70 wide, some other
spacious apartments, and a range of workshops ; but
the whole design will be completed by the erection of
its western wing, for which Government has made pro-
vision in the estimates of 1882-83. It will measure in its
completed state 400 feet in length, 200 in breadth, and
average 90 in height. It is externally in the Venetian
Renaissance style, and internally in that order of archi-
tecture invented by Sir Joseph Paxton for the Crystal
Palace, elaborated and systeraatised by Captain Fowke,
EDINBURGH
who also furnished the design. The exterior is con-
structed of white and red sandstone, the interior is
variously and elaborately decorated ; the roofing is in
open timber-work and glass ; the artificial lighting is
ert"ected by means of horizontal iron rods on the roof,
studded with thousands of gas-jets ; and the entire
aspect is light, rich, and elegant. A glazed gallery, in
form of a bridge spanning West College Street, com-
municates between its E end and the interior of the
University buildings. Temporary entrances were in
use for some years, but the main entrance is now in
Chambers Street by two flights of broad steps, and
consists of three noble round-headed doorways separated
by pilasters, and opening into a spacious vestibule.
The Museum contains the splendid collections in
natural history formerly in the University ; it acquired,
in 1867, 4206 additional specimens in natural history, and
2767 specimens in the department of industrial art; and
has continued in subsequent years to acquire by pur-
chase or by gift correspondingly large accessions to its
contents. In its natural histoiy department it contains
over ten thousand birds and upwards of a thousand
mammalia. In its industrial department it has the
largest collections of raw products anywhere in the
world, together with illustrations of nearly all the
principal manufactures of Great Britain, and many
of those of foreign countries. There are also sections
for constructive materials, mining, metallurgy, ceramic
art, vitreous manufactures, decorative arts, textile
manufactures, photography, materia medica, chemistry,
food, education, and other departments. Admission
is free on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, but 6d.
is charged on Mondays, Tuesda}-s, and Thursdays.
The niimber of visitors to it in the week ending Feb.
11, 1882, was free days, 2536 ; evenings, 3016 ; pay
days, 75 — total, 5627 ; and this may be taken as a fair
average. The total number of visitors since the open-
ing to the same date was 5,863,579. A series of lectures
to citizens, chiefly by University professors, was delivered
for several years in evenings of the winter months.
It usually comprised six or seven courses, on as many
different sciences or scientific subjects ; was accessible
for a fee of one shilling for each course, and was attended
in 1869-70 by 1386 persons, in the previous winter by a
larger number ; but the lectures were eventually discon-
tinued in consequence of inadequate remuneration to
the lecturers. Space was afforded in the part finished in
1874 for bringing into view great and valuable accumu-
lations of interesting objects which could not pre-
viously be shown, and space will be available both
there and in the designed western wing for any amount
of accumulations which can be made for many years to
come.
Extra Mural Medical Schools. — Surgeons' Hall stands
on the E side of Nicolson Street, about 100 yards from the
University, and was built in 1833, after a design by W. H.
Playfair, at a cost of £20,000. It is a large and splendid
edifice in the Grecian style, contrasting strongly with
the plain buildings in its neighbourhood ; presents a
main front to the street, mostly covered with a lofty
hexastyle Ionic portico, the base in the form of a
curtain-wall, the columns fluted and well proportioned,
the frieze and the tj-mpanum adorned with fine carved
work ; is entered by two pedimented doorways at the
ends of the curtain-wall ; and contains apartments for
meetings, tastefully -fitted galleries, and valuable
museums, consisting chiefly of anatomical and patho-
logical subjects. The Royal College of Surgeons, to
whom the hall belongs, was incorporated in 1505, and
re-incorporated in 1778 ; maintains courses of lectures
to students of medicine ; issues diplomas, and serves as
a coadjutor to the medical faculty of the University ;
and, together with the Royal Collc.cje of Physicians, is
recognised in the Medical Act of 1858. Its winter
course of lectures comprises surgery, chemistry, phy.sio-
logy, medical jurisprudence, clinical medicine, clinical
su'rgery, anatomy, pathologj', and practice of physic ;
and the summer course includes some of these, and adds
i midwifery, botany, natural philosophy, histology, in-
505
EDINBURGH
sanity, history of medicine, dental surgery, venereal
diseases, and surgical appliances.
The Physicians' Hall, from 1775 till 1845, was on the
S side of George Street, on the ground now occupied by
the Commercial Bank ; and was a beautiful structure
three stories high, in pure Grecian style, with a tetra-
style Corinthian portico. The present hall stands in
Queen Street, midway between St David Street and
Hanover Street ; was built in 1845 after designs by T.
Hamilton ; has a Corinthian portico of unique character,
comprising successively a tetrastyle, an entablature, a
distyle in entablature, and a pediment ; and contains a
fine hall for meetings and a good museum. The tetra-
style of its portico has columns of the rare quasi-Corin-
thian kind called by some architects the Attic ; the ends
of the first entablature are surmounted by statues of
Esculapius and Hippocrates, from the chisel of A. H.
Eitchie ; and the apex of the pediment is crowned by a
statue of Hygeia. A new library-hall was added in
1877 ; this hall is 55 feet long and 32 feet \vide, with a
circular ceiling, 27 feet 6 inches high in tlie centre,
divided into panels, ten of which are filled in with glass.
This hall is in the Italian style, and was designed by
Mr David Bryce. The Royal College of Physicians, to
whom the hall belongs, was incorporated in 1681 ;
possesses an exclusive but obsolete privilege of practising
medicine within certain limits of the ancient city ; is
charged with the public duty of preventing the sale of
adulterated drugs ; maintains an annual course of six
lectures on mental diseases ; and indii'ectly supports the
medical schools of the city.
The Minto House School of Medicine occupies verj^
nearly the site of the old building which bore this name ;
is a very handsome building with ornate front in keeping
with the Industrial Museum, opposite which it stands
in Chambers Street ; and has a statf of seventeen lecturers.
The Dental School, in Chambers Street, occupies one of
the old buildings in Brown Square, which has been
adapted for the purpose, and has a staff of five
lecturers. The School of Medicine and Pharmacy is
in one of the new buildings in Marshall Street, and
has five lecturers.
The Veterinary College stands on the N side of Clyde
Street, near the NE corner of St Andrew Square ; is a
modern three-story edifice in plain Doric style ; and
possesses apartments and appliances for the instruction
of students in veterinary medicine. The institution was
established in 1818 ; was patronised by the Highland
and Agricultural Society of Scotland in 1823 ; and is
under the trusteeship and patronage of the magistrates
and town council of Edinburgh. It is conducted by
a principal, four professors, and two assistants ; and
maintains lectures on veterinary medicine and surgery,
cattle pathology and materia medica, physiology,
chemistry and chemical pharmacy, anatomy and
anatomical demonstrations, and on clinical medicine
and clinical surgery. The winter session commences
early in November, and continues till the end of April ;
and the summer session commences in the second week
of May, and continiies till the end of July. The New
Veterinary College was established in 1873 within Gay-
field House, off the N side of East London Street ; pos-
sesses new adjuncts of yards and premises suited to all
the purposes of instruction ; is afhliated with the Royal
College of Veterinary Surgeons, the board of examiners
in Scotland, and incorporated by royal charter in 1844.
It is conducted by a principal and five professors ; and
maintains lectures in veterinary medicine and surgery,
anatomy and anatomical demonstrations, physiology,
chemistry and toxicology, materia medica and therapeu-
tics, botany at the Botanic Garden, practical pharmacy,
and in clinical instruction.
Itoyal Institution. — The edifice called the Royal Insti-
tution stands on the N end of the Mound. It has a
proximately oblong form, with the short fronts to the N
and the S, and rests on a substructure of wooden piles
and cross-bearers, rendered necessary by the ground
being travelled earth. It was founded in 1823, extended
in 1832, and completed in 1836, after designs by W, H.
506
EDINBURGH
Playfair, at a cost of £40,000, and is in pure Doric style
of the era of Pericles, and somewhat resembles a perip-
teral temple, with fluted columns along all the face of
its four sides, resting on flights of steps, and sur-
mounted by a uniform entablature. The N front con-
tains the principal entrance, approached by a noble
flight of steps ; and it has a magnificent portico with
three lines of columns, the first and the second line con-
taining each eight columns, the third line containing
two ; while a massive pediment, with richly carved
tympanum, surmounts the entablature. The S front
corresponds, in form and ornament, to the N one, but
has only two lines of columns, the first with eight
columns, and the second with four, in antes. The E
and the W fronts are precisely alike ; and each of them
has a distyle projection at both ends, and seventeen
columns between the two projections. The walls, at
the inter-columniations are pierced with windows ; the
summit of the N front, as formerly noticed, is crowned
with a colossal statue of Queen Victoria ; and the summit
of each of the four distyle projections is cro\\Tied with a
pair of sphinxes. The edifice contains the apartments
of the Royal Institution for the encouragement of the
fine arts in Scotland ; the apartments of the Board of
Trustees for the encouragement of manufactures and
fisheries ; those of the Royal Society of Edinburgh,
comprising library, museum, and select gallery of por-
traits ; the class-rooms of the school of design ; a
gallery of statuary ; and the Antiquarian Museum.
The school of design has a salaried staff of directors,
two preceptors, and a lecturer ; dates from the j'ear
1760 ; and was attended in 1880-81 by 490 male pupils,
and 326 female pupils — less by 25 the total of the preced-
ing years, the falling off being attributable greatly to the
inconvenient crowding of the class-rooms. The gallery
of statuary contains casts of the Elgin marbles, of all
the celebrated ancient statues, and of the Ghiberti gates
at Florence, as well as a series of casts of antique
Greek and Roman busts, originally collected at Rome ;
and it is open, for a charge of 6d., from 10 till
4 on Wednesdaj's and Frida3-s, and free from 10 till
4 on Saturdays. The Antiquarian Museum belongs
to the Society of Scottish Antiquaries, instituted in
1780, and chartered in 1783 ; is now maintained as a
national museum, at the expense of Government ; was
lodged from 1781 till 1787 in a house in Cowgate, till
1793 in Chessels buildings in Canongate, till 1813 in
Gosford's Close in Lawnmarket, till 1825 in the house
42 George Street, till 1844 in the Royal Institution, till
1860 in the building in George Street containing the
Edinburgh Life Assurance Company's office ; was then
brought back to the Royal Institution ; was rearranged
there with much improvement ; and is open to the
public for a charge of 6d. on Thursdays and Fridays,
and free on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays.
Some of the many interesting objects in it are ancient
sculptures from various countries, Egyptian antiquities,
ancient British utensils and implements, Romano-
British pottery and glass, old Scottish wood-carvings,
relics from the Swiss lake-dwellings, two metallic crosses
and a curious iron fetter from Abyssinia, instruments
of torture and punishment formerly used in Scotland,
the Scottish ' Jlaiden ' or guillotine, John Knox's
pulpit from St Giles' Church, an old stool alleged to
have been that which Jenny Geddes hurled at the head
of the Dean of St Giles', the ' stool of repentance ' from
Old Greyfriars' Church, the original copies on vellum cf
Solemn League and Covenant, the banner of the covenant
used at the battle of Bothwell Brig, a collection of
relics and memorials of the principal political and
other controversies of former times, the blue ribbon
worn by Prince Charles Edward as a Knight of the
Garter in 1745, a collection of old paper money, Scottish,
American, and French, and autographs of Queen Mary,
James VI., Charles I., Cromwell, and other notable
persons. The number of visitors to the museum in the
course of a year has steadily increased from about 67,000
in 1861, to upwards of 120,000 at the present time.
Art Galleries. — The building, called variously the Art
EDINBURGH
Gallery and the National Gallery, stands on the central
and southern parts of the Mound, and occupies a site
computed to be worth £30,000, but given free by the
town council. To erect it, vast excavations and sub-
structions had to be made, and extensive improvements
on the adjacent ground had to be effected, either pre-
paratory to its own construction, or in order to har-
monise it with surrounding structures. The building
was commenced in August 1850, in the laying of its
foundation-stone by the late Prince Consort, but did not
reach completion till 1858, and cost, directly or in-
dii-ectly, about £40,000. It was designed to provide
suitable accommodation for the annual exhibition of the
Royal Scottish Academy, for the extension of the school
of design, and for the instituting of a Scottish national
gallery of painting and sculpture ; was erected after de-
signs by W. H. Playfair in the Greek-Ionic style, about
the same width as the Royal Institution, but nearly a
third longer ; and extends in main length from N to S,
but has a short, broad, high transept intersecting the
middle, so as to be comparatively cruciform. The N and
S fronts are exactly alike, but the former is in a great
degree hidden by the Royal Institution, while the latter
stands so much lower than the adjacent roadway as to
be visible only at a very close view ; and each is com-
pletely faced with an Ionic portico of two projecting
wings and a centre, each wing having four columns and
a pediment, and the centre having two columns in antes
and a balustrade. The E and the W fronts are con-
spicuous from all points, high and low, whence the
Mound itself can be seen ; and the transept face of each
displays a handsome hexastyle Ionic portico with a
pediment, while the rest of the wall presents a bald ap-
pearance, relieved only by pilasters and b}' a balustered
parapet. The eastern division of the edifice contains
five octagonal apartments, lighted by cupolas ; is occu-
pied by the Royal Scottish Academy : and, from February
to May every year, is used for exhibitions of the works
of living artists, and then is so much frefjuented as to
be the most fashionable lounge in the city. The western
division has a similar arrangement to the eastern, and
is devoted entirely to the National Gallery as a perma-
nent collection of works of art. The collection includes
works, or copies of works, by Titian, Tintoretto, Guido,
Paul Veronese, Francesco, Albano, Spagnoletto, Van-
dyke, Rembrandt, Velasquez, and other continental
masters ; portraits by Sir Thomas La^\Tence, Sir Henry
Raeburn, Sir John W. Gordon, and Graham Gilbert ;
works of Sir George Harvey, Sir Noel Paton, Horatio
Macculloch, Dyce, Ettj', Roberts, Faed, Herdman,
Chalmers, and other modern artists ; some very fine
specimens of water-colour drawings ; and the statue of
the poet Burns by Flaxman. Admission to the National
Gallery is given for a charge of 6d. on Thursdays and
Fridays, and free on Jlondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays,
and Saturdays.
The Albert Gallery was projected in 1876, in connec-
tion with an institution to be styled the Albert Institute
of the Fine Arts, and erected on the N side of Shandwick
Place, at a cost of £25,000, irom designs byW. Beattie ;
it was designed for an art exhibition and artist's studios,
■with shops on the ground floor. The Institute was in-
tended to promote the encouragement of fine art in
general, and contemporary Scottish art in particular, by
an autumn exhibition of water colours, a -vdnter exhibi-
tion of painting and sculpture, and generally throughout
the year by the exhibition and sale of works of art.
Failing to succeed in these objects, this ornate building
is now occupied by the Scottish Meteorological Society,
the Edinburgh School of Cookery, and the offices of
several lawyers and others.
Scientific and Literary Institutions. — The old Royal
Observatory stands on Calton Hill, to the N of Dugald
Stewart's Monument, and was projected in 1736, but not
founded till 1776. It was erected after designs by Craig
and Adam, and intended to have the form of a fortress,
but completed to only a small portion of the design, and
never properly served its purpose. It is a plain, dingy,
three-story structure, in the form of a strong tower,
EDINBURGH
and contains a self-registering anemometer and a rain
gauge. The new Royal Observatory stands on the
summit of Calton Hill, on a tabular open tract E of
the old Observatory, and was founded in 1818, and built
after a design by W. H. Playfair, in the form of a St
George's Cross, measuring 62 feet from N to S, and from E
to W. It exhibits on each of its four fronts a hexastyle
Doric portico, •with handsome pediment; is surmounted,
at the centre, by a dome 13 feet in diameter; has the
mural circle in the W, the transit instrument and the
astronomical clock in the E, and a solid pillar 19 feet
high, for the astronomical circle, in the centre at the
dome. It was improved in 1871 by the construction of an
astronomer's house, with supplementary rooms for [lur-
poses of observation ; and maintains true time through-
out the city, partly by aid of electro-controlled clocks,
and partly by the two simultaneous signals of time-ball
and time-gun. Short's Observatory, on Castle Hill,
serves rather as a place of amusement than for strictly
scientific purposes, and has already been noticed.
The Royal Botanic Garden was founded by Sir Andrew
Balfour and Sir Robert Sibbald in 1670, and was used
for the purpose of teaching by the professor of botany
in the University from 1676. As already stated, its first
site was in the valley to the rear of the Post Office,
in a district long after kno\\'n as the Physic Gardens.
In 1763 it was transferred to Leith Walk, whence,
in 1824, it was removed to Inverleith Row. It was
greatly enlarged about 1867, by inclusion of the
contiguous Experimental Garden. It contains a super-
intendent's house, a lecture room, a museum, a mag-
netic observatorj', extensive hot-houses, splendid palm-
houses, a Linnrean arrangement, an extensive Pine-
tum, collections of native plants and medical plants, a
winter garden, a magnificent rockery, and some tasteful
groupings of parterre and shrubbery. Within the last
few years the mansion-house and policy of Inverleith
have been acquired by government and the city cor-
poration, and the grounds, extending to about 30 acres,
are converted into an Arboretum or general collection
of trees and shrubs scientifically named and arranged.
There is one curator for Botanic Garden and Arboretum.
The lecture-room is supplemented by a class museum, a
large herbarium, an apparatus for histology, and demon-
strations in the hot-houses and in the open ground ; and
is largely attended in the summer months by students of
both sexes in different classes. So popular have these
botanical classes become, that it was found necessary to
erect, in ISSO, an additional class-room to accommodate
600 students, the former class-room not afibrding room
for more than about 350, so that the professor had to
deliver the same lecture twice every day to separate
classes of students, there being at that time about 500
students attending the Garden in the course of their
University studies. The new building is in the form of
an octagon, springing from the W gable of the old class-
room, and carried outwards in breadth 12 feet on either
side, and in length 50 feet. The hot-houses were founded
in 1835, and gradually extended to a great range, com-
prising now a large octagon in the centre, and two
lateral wings with each a central octagonal compartment ;
the large central octagon being added so late as 1872.
This structure has a diameter of only 40 feet, but pro-
jects at the end into graceful connection with the wings ;
rises, in columnar form, from a 3-foot dado course, to a
height of 23 feet ; exhibits there a moulded entablature
of architrave, frieze, and cornice ; and has a roof of two
stages, with an octagonal dome, 20 feet in diameter, 15
feet high, and crowned with ornamental cresting at an
elevation of 45 feet from the ground. Tlio chief Palm-
house is 96 feet long, 57 wide, and 70 high ; and con-
tains magnificent specimens of both herbaceous and
ligneous endogens. The Rock-Garden is one of the
finest in Europe ; presents a succession of bays and
angles ; rises, in terrace over terrace, to a height of 18
feet ; has a width of 120 feet, and a length of 190 feet ;
is divided into uniform geometrical sections, and sub-
divided into more than 4000 variously-sized compart-
ments ; and commands, from its topmost terrace, a
507
EDINBURGH
strikingly picturesque view of Edinburgh. Several trees
in the garden were planted as memorial trees by the
late Prince Consort, the Prince of Wales, and the Duke
of Edinburgh. The garden is free to the public, on
every lawful day in winter, from daylight till dark — in
summer till 8 p. M.
The Experimental Garden, which lay contiguous to
the S side of the Botanic, and is now included in
it, was formed in 1S24. It comprised about 10 acres
of ground ; contained a superintendent's house, an
exhibition hall, several hot-houses, and a beautiful
arrangement of lawn, parterre, shrubbery, orchard,
and kitchen-garden ; and belonged to a society insti-
tuted in 1809 for improving the cultivation of flowers,
fruits, and culinary vegetables. — A large winter garden
occupies the corner between Coates Gardens and the
Glasgow Road, in the vicinity of Haymarket, belongs
to the proprietor of a neighbouring nursery, and was
formed ia 1870-71. It has a S main front 130 feet long,
■with a central building 50 feet wide and 30 long, sur-
mounted by a handsome dome 65 feet high ; includes a
northerly annexe, 50 feet long and 28 wide ; has, be-
neath the entrance dome, a terra-cotta fountain, and a
rich arrangement of hot-house plants ; and contains a
covered way, a fern-house 37 feet long and 20 wide,
several ranges of hot-houses, and a series of stove, green,
and propagating houses. — There was once a Zoological
Garden in Broughton Park, at the E end of East Glare-
mont Street, formed in 1840. It comprised a consider-
able extent of ground, tastefully disposed in walks and
flower-plots ; contained, for a number of years, an in-
teresting collection of wild animals ; and was often used
for musical promenades, firework fetes, and other enter-
tainments; but, proving a failure, was abolished in
1860.
The Watt Institution and School of Arts dates from
1821. It had a jilain building with several halls in Adam
Square, which required to be taken down in 1871 to
make way for the formation of Chambers Street ;
obtained in lieu of that building a site for a new one
in Chambers Street, together with £7000 toward the
erection of the new edifice, and certain other concessions
worth about £350. It is patronised by tlie Lord Provost,
managed by a body of directors, and conducted by
fifteen lecturers and teachers, and gives instruction in
mathematics, natural philosoph}', chemistry, botany,
and natural history, French, German, Greek, Latin,
English language and literature, phonography, arith-
metic, architectural, mechanical, geometrical, machine,
and free-hand drawing, engineering, history, economic
science, ph3'siology, geology, biology, and music ; serving
generally as an academy of science, art, and literature to
the operative classes, and attended in 1877-78 by 3022
students, in 1879-80 by 3100, in 1880-81 by 3176.
The new building for it is at the W corner of the semi-
circular recess opposite the Industrial Museum ; was
erected in 1872-73 after designs by David Rhind ; rises
to the height of two stories, with an additional pavilion
story in the W ; has a projecting porch surmounted by
the statue of James Watt, whicli formerly stood in
Adam Square ; and contains a lecture-hall with accom-
modation for 680 persons, another hall 34 feet long and
33 feet wide, a chemical class-room 33 feet long and 23
feet wide, a mechanical philosophy apparatus-room,
and the spacious general class-rooms. It lias been pro-
posed to affiliate the Watt Institution witli the Heriot
Hospital Trust, and to call it in future the Watt-Heriot
Institute, but as yet this proposal has not received
practical effect.
The Royal Association for promoting the Fine Arts in
Scotland holds its ordinary meetings in a hall at 67
George Street, being founded in 1833, and incorporated
by royal cliarter in 1847 ; and though not maintaining
any regular public lectures, it supplies from time to time
prelections on interesting subjects connected with the
useful arts. The Philosophical Institution has premises
at 4 Queen Street, a news-room, a reading-room, and
an extensive library, and ofl'ers free admission to these
to strangers who are members of kindred institutions. It
508
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aff'ords class instruction, in some departments, to such
of its own members as desire it ; and maintains in a
neighbouring hall, formerly occupied by the offices of
the U. P. church, a winter course of lectures by distin-
guished men, on a variety of philosophica4, literary,
and miscellaneous subjects. The Edinburgh Literary
Institute was incorporated in 1870 ; erected in South
Clerk Street a handsome edifice, whicli was publicly
opened in January 1S72 ; has there a news-room and a
library, each measuring 36 feet by 24, a ladies' reading
and conversation room, a well-appointed billiard-room,
and a fine hall originally 107 feet long, 55 wide, and
30 high, but curtailed and improved in 1875 at a cost
of about £400 ; and maintains lectures on a variety
of literary subjects, and occasional concerts. A similar
institution was opened in February 18S2 at ^lorningside.
The Working Men's Club and Literary Institute occu-
pies a portion of the Ro\-al Exchange Square, and has
news-room, billiard, bagatelle, chess, and draught
rooms, and a library ; the number of visitors during
1881 being 51,183.
Other scientific and literary institutions are the Royal
Medical Society, instituted in 1737, chartered in 1778, and
meeting in a hall at 7 Melbourne Place ; the Spec^ulative
Society, instituted in 1764, and meeting in a hall in
the University ; the Harveian Society, instituted in
1782 ; the Obstetrical Society, No. 5 St Andrew Square ;
the Medico-Chirurgical Society, instituted in 1821 ; the
Odonto-Chirurgical Society ; the North British Branch
of the Pharmaceutical Society ; the Juridical Society,
instituted in 1773, and meeting in a hall at No. 40
Charlotte Square ; the Sco^s Law Society, instituted in
1815 ; the Botanical Society, instituted in 1836 ; the
Geological Society, instituted in 1834 ; the Royal
Physical Society, instituted in 1771, and chartered in
1788 ; the Arboricultural Society ; the Phrenological
Association and Museum in Chambers Street ; the
Meteorological Society, instituted in 1855 ; the Photo-
graphic Society, established in 1861 ; the Horological
Society, instituted in 1862 ; the Tusculan Society, in-
stituted in 1822 ; the Actuarial Society, instituted in
1859 ; the Bankers' Literary Association ; the Diag-
nostic Society, instituted in 1816, and meeting weekly
during the College winter session ; the University
Philomathic Debating Society, instituted in 1858 ; the
Architectural Association, No. 5 St Andrew Square ;
the Architectural Institute, constituted in 1850 ; the
Educational Institute, formed in 1847, and chartered
in 1857 ; the Subscription Library, No. 24 George
Street, instituted in 1794 ; the Select Subscription
Library, 26 AVaterloo Place, instituted in 1800 ; and
the Mechanics' Subscription Library, No. 3 Victoria
Terrace, instituted in 1825.
Classical Schools. — The High School dates, under the
name of Grammar School, from 1519. It sprang from
a school at Ilolyrood, which probably existed as early
as the beginning of the 12th century, and liad not, for
a number of years, any building of its own, either new
or hired. It occupied, for some time a dwelling-house
in Blackfriars Wynd, which had been a palace of Arch-
bishop Beaton ; was removed in 1555 to a house at the
E side of Kirk of Field, near the head of what came to
be called High School Wynd ; and acquired in 1578 a
new building for itself, within the Blackfriars' cemetery,
on ground at the foot of Infirmary Street, giving to
the tract around it the name of High School Yards.
Another edifice, erected on or near the same site in 1777,
was neat and commodious, and might have continued
suitable for many years yet to come ; but, owiu'' to the
plebeian character of its vicinity, and the unhealthiness
of the locality, it lost caste in the eyes of the citizens
of the New Town, when a new and more eligible site
was sought for, and the old school transferred to the
directors of the Infirmary, to be used as a surgical
hospital. The present edifice stands on the S face
of Calton Hill, a little above the line of Regent
Road, about 160 yards E from the Prison. It is
built on a terrace cut out of the solid rock, sheltered
from the N wind, but somewhat exposed to the E and
EDINBURGH
EDINBURGH
the TV ; commands along its front, towards the S, one
of the richest town and country views of Edinburgh and
its environs ; and forms itself a noble feature in the views
from most parts of the Queen's Park. It was erected in
1825-29, after designs by Thomas Hamilton, at a cost of
£30,000 ; has a curtain- wall in front of its main build-
ing, but at considerably lower level, extending in a
gentle curve along the edge of the public pavement,
with two lodges at the ends, and measuring iipwards of
400 feet in length ; consists, in its main building, of a
centre, two lofty open corridors, and two wings, with
an aggregate frontage of '270 feet ; has a play-ground of
nearly 2 acres, formed into a level by deep cutting in
the face of the hill ; and is enclosed with neat iron-railing.
The two lodges are in the Doric style ; present their
flank to the road and their fronts toward each other ;
have each a tetrastyle portico ; and are disposed, the
one for occupancy by the janitor, the other in two class-
rooms. Two doorways, in Egyptian architecture, boldly
break the centre of the curtain-wall ; and a double flight
of steps, flanked half-way up by Egyptian projections,
ascends to a spacious platform at the level of the main
building ; yet these features are merely ornamental, the
access being by a gateway on a higher level considerably
to the W and through the play-ground. A massive
Doric portico, with a front range of six columns, and a
rear range of two columns, rises from the platform at
the top of the double flight of steps ; covers all the
centre of the main building ; and is in pure Grecian
style, copied from the temple of Theseus at Athens,
with columns upwards of 20 feet high. The open cor-
ridor.?, connecting the centi'e with the wings, commence
at ppints slightly behind the portico ; and are each
supported by six Doric columns. Each of the wings is
a large oblong, nearly flat-roofed ; presents one of its
shorter elevations to the front ; and is adorned only
with pilaster and entablature. The central part of the
main building contains a splendid examination hall,
75 feet long, 43 wide, and upwards of 30 high, a
library hall, the rector's apartments, and some smaller
rooms ; and the wings contain four class-rooms, and
apartments for four masters. The entire edifice, simply
as regards its class-rooms, has accommodation for 575
scholars. It was at first a purely classical seminary ;
but it now furnishes systematic instruction in all the de-
partments of a commercial as well as a liberal education ;
has classes for English, Latin, Greek, French, German,
history, geography, phj'siology, chemistry, natural philo-
soph)', zoology, botany, mathematics, drawing, fencing,
gymnastics, and military drill ; spreads its entire curri-
culum over the period of six years ; and is conducted by
a rector, 15 masters, and 2 lecturers. It formerly was
under the magistrates and town coimcil ; but, in terms
of the Education Act of 1872, it came under the city
school-hoard. The number of pupils enrolled in 1879-80
was 418 ; 1880-Sl, 423 ; 1881-82, 398. Previous to
1872, when the board's control of the school began, the
number of pupils had been gradually decreasing. The
annual income of the school, varying according to fees,
is about £5900 — of this £820 arises from the General
Endowment Fund, held by the town council for behoof
of the school ; the fees are fully £5000, and belong
to the masters. (See Ttie History of the High School of
Edinburgh, Edinb. 1849.)
The Edinburgh Academy stands off the N side of
Henderson Row, with rear on tabular ground over-
looking the Water of Leith, 570 yards "WSW of Canon-
mills ; originated in a scheme by a number of distin-
guished citizens, including Leonard Homer, Henry
Cockburn, Henry Mackenzie, Sir Walter Scott, and Sir
Harry MoncrieS" ; and was erected in 1824, after designs
by W. Burn, at a cost of £12,264. It is a low, neat, Doric
structure, containing class-rooms with accommodation
for 1700 pupils, and a common hall with commensurate
accommodation ; presents an appearance less elegant
than massive, but is admirably adapted to its purpose ;
and occupies the centre of a play-ground of 3 acres, with
covered sheds for exercise in wet weather. It has at some
distance a rricket-fTound for the exclusive use of present
and former pupils ; belongs to a body of subscribers, under
royal charter from George IV. ; and is superintended by
a board of fifteen directors, three of whom are elected an-
nually from the body of subscribers. It gives instruction
in all departments of an English, classical, commercial,
and liberal education, extending to a course of seven
years, on terras which render it less accessible than the
High School to the children of the middle classes ;
divides its pupils, in the latter part of its course, into
a classical school for the learned professions, and a
modern school for civil, military, or mercantile pur-
suits ; includes certain classes not belonging to its pro-
per course, treated as voluntary ; and is conducted liy
a rector, 4 classical masters, French and German
masters, 2 mathematical masters, masters for English
and elocution, writing, drawing, fencing, fortification,
and military and civil engineering. The pupils have
varied in number from 300 to 500 ; and the income is
entirely derived from fees.
Fettes College stands on a gentle eminence on the
ground of Comely Bank, in the north-western outskirts
of Stockbridge, and was erected in 1865-70, after designs
by David Bryce, at a cost of about £150,000. It is an ex-
tensive and stately edifice in the semi-Gothic style pre-
valent in France and Scotland in the 16th century,
with central tower ; figures conspicuously and impos-
ingly throughout a great extent of landscape ; and is
decorated with architectural features and carvings which
render it as beautiful at hand as it is picturesque
in the distance. Fettes College originated in a bequest
of Sir William Fettes of Comely Bank (b. 1750 ; d.
1836), and gives maintenance, free education, and outfit
to selected orphan boys, not at an)' one time exceeding
fifty in number. It admits as day scholars or as boarders
large numbers of boys, at an enti-ance fee of £10, 10s.,
an annual fee of £25, and an annual boarding-house
charge of £60 ; is conducted on a plan similar to that
of the great public schools of England ; gives a highly
liberal education, including classics, modern languages,
English, mathematics, science, singing, drawing, gym-
nastics, and fencing ; is conducted by a head master
and eleven assistant masters ; and has provision for
two exhibitions worth £60 a year, each dating from
1875, two fellowships in Edinburgh University worth
£100 a year, and an exhibition to Oxford or Cambridge
University worth £100 a year, dating from 1876. A
gymnasium stands apart from the College near its E
wing ; is a plain yet elegant structure ; contains a hall
80 feet long, 40 feet wide, and 22 feet high ; and is
adjoined at the E end by a fives-court. The infirmary,
or retreat for the sick, stands detached about 40 yards
E of the g}Tnnasium, and is a handsome, unique, one-
story building, with a verandah along the greater part
of its S side. Two boarding-houses stand respectively
on the E and the W sides of the main approach, opened
the one in 1870, the other near the end of 1872; and
contain each private apartments for a master, dor-
mitories, and study-rooms for thirty pupils, and public
dining-room and sitting-room. A third boarding-house
of later erection stands in similar position, and contains
accommodation for fifty-two pupils. A gate-keeper's
lodge, built in 1871, is at the end of the W approach ;
and another of later date is at the E approach, formed
in continuation of Inverleith Place.
The Edinburgh Institution, though private property,
ranks pretty much as a com])etitor ■with the High
School and the Edinburgh Academy ; it was organised
in 1832 to serve for scholars who wished to devote
less time to classical studies than was required at the
two great public schools and more time to other
branches of a liberal education. It was originally in
George Street, afterwards in Hill Street, and removed
in 1853 to Queen Street, being accommodated there
in two private houses slightly altered, containing two
large rooms, a hall 60 feet by 30, and having a total
capacity for more than 900 scholars. It gives in-
struction in classics, French, mathematics, English,
drawing, practical chemistry, dancing, fencing, drill,
and gymnastics : and is conducted by twelve masters.
509
EDINBURGH
Several other seminaries for a jointly classical and
general education, with each a large staff of masters,
are in various parts throughout the city and subiu'bs,
such as the Collegiate Schools, in Charlotte Square ;
Craigraount, the Ministers' Daughters College, the
South Side High School, in the Grange district ; and
Merchiston School, located in the Castle of Kapier of
the Logarithms, at ]\Iorningside ; but rank, in all re-
spects, as private establishments.
Merchant Company's Schools. — George Watson's Hospi-
tal was originally an institution for maintaining and edu-
cating boys between 7 and 15 years of age, being children
or grand-children of decayed merchants in Edinburgh.
It sprang from a bequest of £12,000 by George Watson, a
native of Edinburgh, first a merchant in Holland, after-
wardsabank-accountant in his native city, andwaserected
in 1738-41 at a cost of about £5000, and greatly enlarged
in 1857. It admitted at first only 12 boys on the founda-
tion, but eventually about 80 ; stood on the N side of
the Meadows, in the angle between Lauriston and the
Jleadow Walk ; and in 1870, under provisional orders
obtained in connection with the Endowed Institution's
Act, underwent a sweeping change. The Hospital funds
were thenceforward devoted to the maintaining of the
foundationers in boarding-houses, and the providing
of a liberal day-school education to large numbers of
both boys and girls. The Hospital building, in 1871,
was sold to the Royal Infirmary, and what was the
Merchant Maiden Hospital was purchased in the same
year, to be used as a school for boys. This edifice
stands on the S side of Lauriston, with its front to
the Jleadows, about 240 yards WSW of the site of
the original hospital. It was erected in 1816, after a
design by Burn, at a cost of £12,250 ; measures ISO feet
in length of frontage ; has a tetrastyle Ionic portico,
modelled after the Ionic temple on the Uyssus ; and ac-
quired, in 1872-73, an addition on the N side, forming
an ornamental rear-front, and containing a lecture hall
83 feet long, 51 wide, and 42 high. The school is
called a college school ; affords an education qualifying
boj's either for commercial life or for entering the
Universities ; has an average attendance of about 1200
pupils ; and gives, by competition, bursaries or presenta-
tions aggregately worth about £700. The foundationers
are now not more than 60 in number ; require to be of
age between 9 and 14 ; must be elected, to at least one-
fourth of their number, by competitive examination from
boys attending some one or other of the Merchant Com-
pany's Schools ; are boarded with families ; and receive
certain advantages at the completion of their term. The
girls' school is in George Square ; bears the name of
George Watson's College School for Young Ladies ; had
originally accommodation for 600 scholars ; was enlarged
in 1876 to contain accommodation for 200 additional
scholars ; includes in its enlargement a new building
three stories high, with ornamental frontage in the Italian
style ; provides a high-class education, comprising Eng-
lish, French, German, Latin, writing, arithmetic, book-
keeping, mathematics, physical science, drawing, singing,
pianoforte, drill, calisthenics, dancing, needlework, and
cookery ; and affords, by competition, benefits estimated
at about £700.
The Merchant Maiden Hospital was founded in 1695,
principally by contributions from the company of mer-
chants, and by a large donation from Mrs Mary Erskine,
the widow of an Edinburgh druggist. It became incor-
porated in 1707 ; was held originally in a large tene-
ment at the corner of Bristo Place and Lothian Street,
on ground now occupied by St Patrick's Roman Catholic
School ; and acquired, in 1816, the edifice noticed in our
preceding paragraph. It served long for the maintenance
and education of from 90 to 100 girls, between 7 and 17
years of age, daughters or grand -daughters of merchant
burgesses of Edinburgh ; and, in 1870-71, under tlie same
Itrovisional ordur which revolutionised George Watson's
lospital, underwent vast changes. The edifice, in 1870,
was converted into a day-school for young ladies on the
same plan as George Watson's School in George Square ;
and, on being sold to tie governors of George Watson's
510
EDINBURGH
Hospital, was substituted by extensive premises at the W
end of Queen Street. These are partly remodellings of pre-
existent buildings, and partly superstructures on them ;
have an extensive frontage, and a lofty imposing eleva-
tion ; contain accommodation for 1200 scholars ; and
furnish the same course of instruction and the same
accompanying benefits as the young ladies' school in
George Square. The changing of the classes from room
to room, which is effected to music at five minutes before
each hour, shows a model of organisation, and forms a very
interesting sight. The foundationers to the Hospital
were reduced under the provisional order to the number
of 50 ; must be of age between 9 and 16 ; are boarded
with families ; and, at the completion of their term, re-
ceive each £9, 6s. 8d.
Stewart's Hospital sprung from a bequest of about
£30,000, together with some houses, by Daniel Stewart
of the Exchequer, who died in 1814. It stands ad-
jacent to the Queensferry Road about ^ mile W
of Dean Bridge ; was erected in 1849-53 after de-
signs by David Rhind ; and is in a mixed style of old
castellated Scottish and the latest domestic Gothic.
It measures about 230 feet in maximum length, and
upwards of 100 feet in minimum breadth, comprises
in its main structure three sides of a quadrangle, two
and three stories high, and a fourth side consisting of an
arcaded screen, and projects considerably backward in its
central part. It is surmounted by two main towers, with
turrets, embattled parapets, lanterns, and ogee roofs,
rising to the height of 120 feet, and by two smaller
towers and several turrets ; and contains, in its central
part, a diuing-hall and a chapel. It was instituted for
maintaining and educating boys of between 7 and 14
years of age, the children of poor industrious parents ;
was converted, under a provisional order of 1870, into a
day-school ; gives similar education to that in George
Watson's College School for boys, together with tech-
nical instruction ; affords to its pupils the same benefits,
by competition, as those afforded to the pupils of George
Watson's schools ; admits as foundationers not more
than 40 boys, who must be of age between 9 and 15 ; and
requires that at least one-half of them shall be elected
from the day-scholars of some one or other of the
Merchant Company's schools.
Gillespie's Hospital sprang from a bequest by James
Gillespie of Spylaw, merchant and tobacconist in Edin.
burgh. It stands in a park opposite the W end of Brunts-
field Links, about | mile S of the W end of Princes
Street ; occupies the site of a picturesque, irregular,
turreted, ancient, baronial pile, belonging to the Napiers
of Merchiston ; and was erected in 1801-3 after designs by
Burn. It consists mainly of an oblong structure in cas-
tellated Gothic style, with three projections in front and
turrets at the angles, and partly of a neighbouring
edifice in the form of a large schoolhouse ; and was
fitted, in its main structure, for the accommodation and
support of a limited number of poor aged men and women,
and, in its school structure, for the education of about;
150 boye of between 6 and 12 years of age. It was, under
a provisional order of 1870, converted into primary day-
schools for boys and girls ; affords instruction in English,
writing, arithmetic, and singing, together with me-
chanical di'awing for the boys, and sewing and knitting
for the girls ; allows its pupils a limited portion of
similar benefits, by competition, as those open to the
pupils of the other Merchant Company's schools ; and
has an average attendance of about 1400 boys and girls.
The aged foundationers to the hospital require to be
above 55 years of age ; and now, instead of being main-
tained in any building belonging to the governors, are
allowed each a pension of not less than £10, and not
more than £25.
Hospital Schools. — Heriot's Hospital sprang from a
bequest of George Heriot, a native of Edinburgh, gold-
smith, first to the Queen of James VI., then to that King
himself, and stands in a park immediately WofGreyfriars'
Churches, between Grassmarket and Lauriston. It was
founded in 1G28, but not completed till 1650, and was
used by Cromwell as a military hospital for his sick and
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EDINBURGH
wounded soldiers after the battle of Dunbar, and did
not become available for its own proper uses till 1659.
It is commonly said to have been erected after designs by
Inigo Jones, but probably owes most or all of its features
to some other architect, costing about £30,000, which
woiild have absorbed more than the entire amount of
Heriot's bequest, had not the money for a long time
been invested in a manner singularly lucrative. It
is a quadrangular pile, with open interior court,
measuring 162 feet along each side of the exterior, and
94 feet along each side of the interior ; has often been
called a Gothic structure, but is really in a style of
architecture quite unique ; and possesses such features
as render it strikingly picturesque. The corner portions
are massive square towers, four stories high, surmounted
at the angles by round, projecting, oriental turrets ; the
central portion of the N side contains the entrance arch-
way, flanked with Doric columns, and surmounted by a
square dome-capped tower, rising to the height of 100
feet ; the central portion of each of the other sides has
a salient octagonal structure of medium character be-
tween tower and turret, rising higher than the summit
of the adjacent walls ; all the other portions of the ele-
vations have a height of three stories ; and the windows
are 213 in number, and have mouldings and carvings in
such variety of design that, -wnth one exception, no two
of them are alike. The enclosed court is paved with
square stones, has an arcade 6 feet broad along its N and
E sides, and is pierced on its S side with a Corinthian
doorway, leading to a splendidly ornate chapel, measur-
ing 61 feet by 22. The armorial bearings of Heriot and
some emblematic sculptures surmount the entrance arch-
way ; and a statue of Heriot, in the costume of his time,
from the chisel of Robert ilylne, occupies a finely carved
niche in the interior side. The old and ordinary access
is from Grassmarket ; and a modern entrance archway,
with a lodge in a style of architecture similar to the
hospital itself, is in front of the park at Lauriston. A
terrace, with elegant stone balustrade, now surrounds
the main edifice ; and all the grounds within the park
have been beautifully embellished. The hospital is
managed by the magistrates, town councillors, and
parish ministers of Edinburgh ; maintains and educates
220 boys — 120 resident, 60 non-resident, and 40 day
scholars, admissible at ages from 7 till 10, and requiring,
except under special permission of the governors, to leave
at 14 ; and gives instruction in English, French, Latin,
Greek, mathematics, Avriting, arithmetic, book-keeping,
shorthand, geography, drawing, vocal music, and dancing.
It allows, at the expiry of their term, £30 a year for four
years to the most talented who wish to attend the Uni-
versity, and £20 a year to ten more who attend the
University ; gives to such as become apprentices for five
or more years a sum of £50, and to such as become ap-
prentices for fewer years a correspondingly smaller al-
lowance, and a bonus of £5 at the end of apprenticeship ;
and provides to all, on leaving the hospital, suits of
clothes and useful books. The annual income was at
first so limited as to maintain and educate only 18
hoj's; it eventually became so large as to be able to
maintain and educate as many as the edifice could
accommodate ; and, under authority of an act of par-
liament obtained in 1836, the surplus still over was
devoted to the erecting and maintaining of free ele-
mentary schools in other parts of the city. The num-
ber of these schools has gradually increased, and the
last report (April 1882) gave their average attendance as
follows :— Heriot Bridge, 288 ; Cowgatc Port, 299 ; High
School Yards, 434 ; Old Assembly Close, 284 ; Borth-
wick Close, 273 ; Brown Square, 227 ; Rose Street, 438 ;
Broughton, 233 ; Abbeyhill, 301 ; Davie Street, 294 ;
Stockbridge, 303; Infant Schools — Broughton, 90;
Abbeyhill, 125 ; Davie Street, 147 ; Stockljridge, 110 ;
Victoria Street, 131. Free education is thus provided
to about 5000 children in day schools, and, reckoning
evening classes, between 6000 and 7000 altogether,
of whom a few from the day schools are every year
elected as foundationers in the Hospital. The evening
classes afford instruction to young men and women,
engaged in work during the da}', in the various
branches of reading, writing, arithmetic, Latin, French,
phonography, drawing, etc. AU the buildings are com-
modious, and some of them are ornamental. The one in
Cowgate Port was erected in 1840, and, though standing
in one of the most squalid parts of the city, has piazzas,
towers, ornamented windows, and other architectural de-
corations ; the one in Broughton Street was built in 1855,
and stands amid a tolerably fair display of New Town
architecture, yet is so ornamented with ground arcades,
upper mouldings, and crowning statuary as to be, in a
mere architectural respect, a decided accession to the
neighbourhood ; and the one in Abbeyhill was built in
1874-75, and is both prominent and very hand.some.
Another school, jointly juvenile and infant, was erected
in Davie Street, in 1875-76, at a cost of about £4000 ;
occupies the site of a plain, old, spacious, Lancasterian
school ; consists of a central block and two receding side
wings ; and is so ornamental as to exhibit features
corresponding, in many respects, with those of the
Hospital. Another was built at Dean Street, Stock-
bridge, about the same time, accommodating about
600 children, and costing about £4000. The income
of the Trust for 1881 was £27,395. (See Historical
and BcscrijMve Account of George Heriot's Hospital,
including a Memoir of tJie Founder, Edinb. 1827 ; and
Steven's History of George Heriot's Hospital, Edinb.
1859.)
John "Watson's Hospital sprang from a bequest in
1759 by John Watson, a writer to the signet. It was
intended by him to be a foundling hospital, but was
turned by his trustees into a hospital for maintaining
and educating destitute children. It stands on the left
side of the Water of Leith, a short distance AVSW of
Dean Bridge ; was built in 1S25-2S after designs by
William Burn ; is a large and solid edifice, with a
Doric portico ; maintains and educates about 100 chil-
dren, between 7 and 14 years of age ; affords them in-
struction in English, Latin, French, mathematics, draw-
ing, music, dancing, and drill ; is managed by fifteen
directors, comprising a treasurer, the keeper and deputy-
keeper of the signet, and twelve commissioners of the
writers to the signet ; and, though originating in a
fund which amounted in 1781 to less than £5000, is
now, with its grounds and buildings, worth nearly
£133,000.
The Orphan Hospital sprang from an effort of private
benevolence in 1 7 27, and was countenanced and aided, dur-
ing their visits to Edinburgh, by Howard and Whitfield.
It became incorporated in 1742 ; occupied a hired house,
with about thirty children, in 1733-35 ; acquired, in
1735, a new commodious structure, with a spire, in the
Nor' Loch valley, immediately S of the rear of the W
section of Waterloo Place ; and vacated that build-
ing, on account of the unhealthiness of the situation,
in 1833, for a new edifice on the left side of the Water
of Leitli, about | mile AVSAV of Dean Bridge. It has
accommodation there for 200 children ; gives main-
tenance and free education to as many as its funds can
support ; and admits boarders or presentees at a charge
of £16 a year for a boy and £14 for a girl. It affords in-
struction'in all the ordinary departments of an English
education, and is upheld almost solely by subscriptions
and donations. It suffered such depression of its re-
sources toward 1871 as not to be able to admit more
than 90 children, including boarders ; and was then
threatened with removal to some smaller house and
the sale of the property ; but it experienced such
revival in 1875 that the number of its children was
increased in that year from 84 to 106. Its old build-
ing in the Nor' Loch valley became an asylum for des-
titute children, in connection with a charity work-
house, but was eventually swept away by the operations
for the North British railway terminus. The new
edifice was built in 1831-33, after designs by Thomas
Hamilton, at a cost of neariy £16,000 ; stands on a
terrace, reached by a broad flight of steps ; comprises
a spacious centre and two moderately projecting wings,
all two stories high ; has, on the middle part of tlia
511
EDINBURGH
centre, a portico with seven Tuscan columns and a
plain pediment, overlooked in the rear by a small quad-
rangular clock-turret ; and is surmounted, adjacent to
the ^vings, by tvro quadrangular towers of two stages,
cut with arches and terminating in turrets. The clock
of the Netherbow Port was placed in the spire of the old
structure, and transferred to the clock-turret of the new
edifice.
The Trades' Maiden Hospital was originally a plain
edifice in Argyle Square, on part of the site of the In-
dustrial Museum, and is now a commodious house, with
large garden, a little S of the Meadows. The institution
was founded in 1704, and incor]ioratcd in 1707 ; sprang
from donations by JIrs Mary Erskine and the incorpo-
rated trades of the city ; and is managed by the deacons
of these trades, thirteen in all, and fourteen other gover-
nors. It maintains 48 girls between 7 and 17 years of
age, chiefly children or grand-children of craftsmen, who
were educated formerly by a staff of teachers belonging
to the hospital, but now receive their education at George
Watson's school for young ladies in George Square.
Each of the pupils, at the completion of her term, re-
''.eives £10 and a Bible.
Donaldson's Hospital stands on the N side of the
Glasgow Road, and on the right side of the Water of
Leith, about 600 yards WNW of Haymarket, and sprang
from a bequest of about £210,000 by James Donaldson
of Broughton Hall, proprietor and printer of the Edin-
burgh Advertiser, who died in 1830. It occupies a gently
swelling ground, which exhibits it fully and distinctly in
very distant views, and is separated from the public road
by successively a bold screen wall with elegant gates, a
spacious terrace, a gi-and stone balustrade, and a fine
lawn. It was erected in 1842-51, after designs byW.
H. Playfair, at a cost of about £100,000 ; forms an open
quadrangle, measuring 258 feet by 207 in the exterior,
and 176 feet by 164 in the contained court; and is a
splendid, palatial, towered structure, in the Tudor style.
Its elevation, except at the towers, is about 50 feet high ;
is divided into two stories, with oriel windows, and ■n'ith
buttresses between every pair ; and is surmounted by an
embrasured parapet. Four octagonal towers, of five
stories, stand at the centre of the main front, flanking
the grand entrance, and rise to a height of 120 feet;
four square towers, of four stories, stand at each of the
corners, and rise to a height intermediate between that
of the central towers and the smaller finials ; and all
the twenty towers have ogee roofs, and terminate in
vanes. The number of window-lights is 600. The
whole exterior, with perforated scroll ornament sur-
mounting its oriels, ornamental lace-work, and armorial
bearings on its corner towers, flowers and cherub-heads
on the tympanums of its buttresses, and shields with
thistles, shamrocks, roses, and fleur-de-lis, is exceed-
ingly elegant. The contained court is correspondingly
EDINBURGH
imposing ; shows impressively the symmetrical propor-
tions of the masses and apertures, the picturesque group-
ings of the towers and turrets, and the continuous lines
of the mouldings and string-courses ; and has a richly
ornamented central pedestal, rising like a grand bouquet
from the substantial pavements. The interior also is in
good keeping with the exterior. The corridors have an
aggregate length of about 3500 feet ; the principal stair-
cases are about 20 feet square, and from 40 to 50 feet
high ; the apartments average 17 feet in height, and are
164 in number ; the public rooms average about 65 feet
in length, and 25 in breadth, and have panelled, cor-
belled, bossed ceilings, painted in imitation of oak ; the
corridors, staircases, and public rooms have a wainscot
lining to the aggregate length of more than 4 miles ;
and the chapel is splendidly decorated. The hospital
was erected and endowed for maintaining and educat-
ing poor boys and girls, after the plan of the Orphan
Hospital and John Watson's Hospital ; is managed by
a mixed body of public functionaries and elected gentle-
men, amounting altogether to twenty-seven ; admits no
children whose parents are able to maintain them ; gives
preference to children of the names of Donaldson and
Marshall ; requires them to be between 6 and 9 years of
age at admission, and dismisses them at the age of 14 ;
gives them such a plain useful English education as fits
the boys for trades and the girls for domestic service ;
and has accommodation for 150 boys and 150 girls, of
whom a number are deaf and dumb.
Board Schools. — In 1873 the city School-Board re-
ported that there were then within the city 169 primary
schools, having accommodation for 45,492 scholars;
that 7 of these, for 1218 scholars, were to be discon-
tinued ; and that room for upwards of 13,800 scholars in
higher-class schools was unappropriated. They computed
that primary school accommodation for 4160 scholars
was required, and resolved to erect 7 new schools for
4200 scholars, borrowing for this purpose from the
Public Works Department £70,000, to be repaid in
thirty annual instalments. In terms of the Education
Act of 1872, they so acquired schools, or provided tem-
porary accommodation, as to have in 1874 17 day
schools and 13 evening schools in operation ; but found
in 1875 that further room for upwards of 1000 scholars
was required, and then opened 2 additional schools,
purchased and adapted large tenements for a school
in Canongate, and resolved to erect another in Dairy
district. Since then several of the lesser and temporary
schools have been discontinued, and the work of the
Board is now carried on in 13 schools, independently of
the High School, transferred to the Board by the town
council. The following table gives the costs of these
13 schools, together with their actual measurements,
with small side-rooms in some, and a district library in
another : —
Name of ScnooL.
Cost of Site,
including
Expenses.
Cost of Erection,
including
Furnishings.
Total Cost.
Accom-
modation
at 8 Square
Feet per
Scholar.
Cost per
Scholar ex-
clusive of
Site.
Date of Opening.
*Dean
*New Street
West Fountainbridge . .
*Leith Walk
£1,046 14 0
3,102 2 10
3,4i?2 18 1
3,196 16 7
3,254 4 4
2,535 14 G
8,739 16 2
71 7 1
5,348 11 7
66 1 i\
65 16 o'
3,182 3 0
2,503 3 6
£5,C05 3 10
2,987 13 4
10,956 17 0
14,466 11 10
9,712 7 2
9,051 12 3
10,518 2 3
10,223 11 7
9,989 8 0
9,845 4 0§
7,263 16 9
7,334 12 5
7,426 7 1
£6,651 17 10
6,089 16 2
14,439 15 1
17,663 8 5
12,966 11 6
11,587 6 9
19,257 18 5
10,294 18 8
15,3.37 19 7
9,911 5 5
7,319 12 9
10,516 15 5
9,929 10 7
457
792
935
1,041
633
617
857
1,155
1,023
1,132
948
997
829
£12 5 3*
3 15 b\
11 14 4j
13 17 11
15 6 lOi
14 13 4:{
12 5 5i
8 17 Oi
9 15 3J
8 13 Hi
7 13 2}
7 7 1}
8 19 li
Sept. 1, 1875.
May 1876.
June 1, 1876.
Nov. 3, 1876.
Dec. 23, 1876.
Jan. 8, 1877.
Sept. 27, 1877.
( Feb. 18, 1878.
1 Sept. 6. 1880.
Jan. 6, 1879.
Jan. 5, 1880.
Sept. 6, ISSO.
Sept. 6, 1880.
June 24, 1881.
Oct. 1, 1877.
*Causewavside
*Stockbridge
*nrislo
'L>alry (including addi- >
tiiins) 1
North Canongate
•Canonmills
Lothian Road
•Abbeyliill
New Writing Class-)
room, II. 11. School )
£36,585 9 0^
£115,381 7 6J
1,735 0 0
£151,966 16 7
1,735 0 0
11,416
£10 2 li
£36,585 9 OA
£117,116 7 CJ
£153,701 16 7
512
EDINBURGH
The schools marked * have janitors' houses attached,
the costs of which are included in those of the schools.
The sums thus expended have been obtained by building
grants from the Education Department to the amount
of £5587, 10s. 7d., and loans from Public Works Board
of £147,041, to this being added £1073, 6s. transferred
from school fund, derived from the rates, to defray the
cost of extra furnishings, making the gross total of
£153,701, 16s. 7d.
These schools give accommodation for 25,960 children,
leaving a deficiency of 1561 places ; but this deficiency
the Board are meeting (April 1882) by the erection of
two other schools at Warrender Park and North Mer-
chiston, with accommodation for 880 and 969 children
respectively. The site of "Warrender Park school ex-
tends to 1912 square yards, and was purchased for £1865 ;
the site of North Merchiston school extends to 1940
square yards, and is feued for £85 per annum. The
cost, exclusive of sites, \vill not much exceed £18,000.
All the details of school management, organisation, and
instruction are regulated by the j'early code issued by
the Scotch Education Department ; and religious in-
struction is given for about three-quarters of an hour to
an hour each morning, very few having taken advantage
of the conscience clause upon this point. The annual
results of examination for the three years undernoted
are as follow : —
*- ^
o '•"
oi
13
Total
Rate of
Grant
per
Scholar.
Grant for
C3
=" - E
Grant
O CJ ^
Specific
>
it >i
o S ?
earned.
h^Si
Subjects.
""
-"-
& s. d.
s. d.
£ s. d.
1S79
5033
91
6303 8 0
16 7i
592
117 4 0
ISSO
G095
&S-4
7353 8 2
16 3*
763
150 16 0
ISSl
6516
90-39
7810 8 8
16 5
1202
206 11 10
In each of these j'ears temporary schools were closed
and new ones opened in their places, and this affects the
total amount received for grants, as no grant is paid on
account of schools which are closed during the currency
of a school year. "When this is allowed for, the average
grant earned per scholar is as follows : for 1879, 16s.
9id. ; for 1880, 16s. 9d. ; and for 1881, 16s. ll^d. The
follo^\ing table shows the cost of instruction, sources
of income, and total cost of schools : —
rf "S-2 5 i .
OC^ m
1 a§
«5;
i =s ipS
1^1
S - 'S
o
0.
>; Z-3, -ri.C'.^
•^ *" -^
> 3
O^o
1 "III
"o 2.
^
-d
ow
r-i %4
^
1879 14 £4046
£6303
£6549
£16,904 7578
£2 4 7i
1880 16 4609
7358
6872
18,811 9024
2 19
1881 ' 14 4595
7810
8442
20,848 9504
2 3 lOi
The total cost includes charges for repairs, rates,
taxes, and insurance, and also a sum of £540 of annual
feu-duty, properly chargeable to sites. The repayment
of loans for building is not included. The heavy item
in the cost of the schools is the salaries of the staffs.
AVith the exception of Dean school, where the salary
of the head-master is £200, and that of the head-mis-
tress £100, all the head-masters have £300, with £10
additional for every 100 children over 600, until the
salary attains £350 ; the salaries of first assistants,
£120, rising to £175 ; head-mistresses, £120, rising to
£150 ; male assistants, £80 to £100 ; female assistants
and sewing mistresses, £60 to £80 ; and singing masters
£40 for one hour each day. Over and above these
salaries, 15 per cent, additional payment is given to
those schools which are jilaced in the first class by the
management committee, 10 per cent, to those in the
second class, and 5 per cent, to those in the third class.
The fees charged in all the elementary schools arc at
33
EDINBURGH
the rate of 2d. to 5d. per week, except in New Street
school, attended by the poorest class, where the fee,
including books, etc., is only Id. to 3d. per week.
Evening schools have been in operation for nine years
during the winter months, and are largely attended by
young men and women. In 1880-81 there were eight
classes open in the evening, with an average attendance
of 301. The cost of teaching in these were — ad-
vanced classes, £1, 6s. 6id. ; elementary, £1, 53. 5d. ;
the teachers receiving £20 for salary, with a little
more from grants. During three years the Board
prosecuted 32 defaulting parents under the Act ot
1878. Each prosecution cost the Board from 18s. to
18s. 6d., the expense altogether being thus over £29.
Fines to the amount of £9 were imposed, but not re-
covered. Under the new and reWsed Summary Pro-
cedure Act, however, the sheriff can in imposing a fine
give an alternative of imprisonment in proportion to
the amount of fine imposed, and this it is believed ^vill
produce good results. The architectural details of the
Board schools are generally in what is called the Scot-
tish Flemish style, with muUioned windows and crow-
stepped gables, but vary in accordance with site and
locality, with the exception of the one at Dairy Road,
which is in a pavilion style of only one story in height.
Miscellaneous Public Schools and Institutions. — The
Church of Scotland Normal School stands on Johnston
Terrace, about 160 yards "WSW of the head of Lawn-
market, and was erected in 1845 at a cost of about £8500.
It is a large handsome edifice, with an attached play-
ground ; contains class-rooms and other appliances for a
large attendance of pupils ; affords a wide range of train-
ing for schoolmasters and schoolmistresses ; is conducted
by a rector, seven masters, and a matron ; and includes
a practising school, with head-master and seven assis-
tants in the principal department, a mistress and two
assistants in a juvenile department, and a mistress and
an assistant in an infant department. Premises in con-
nection with this institution for the training of the male
teachers exclusively were recently erected in Chambers
Street, and opened in 1879. The building is a hand-
some and substantial one, and contains, besides lecture-
rooms, the offices of the board of general management.
A boarding-house in connection -n-ith the institution
is at No. 12 Picardy Place. The Free Church Normal
School, noticed in the section on Canongate, is held
in Moray House ; has similar objects and similar de-
partments to those of the Church of Scotland Normal
School ; is conducted by a rector and a master in classics,
masters in French and German, a lecturer in mathe-
matics and physical science, a lecturer in history and
English literature, teachers in drawing and in music,
and five masters, a lady superintendent, two governesses,
and an infants' mistress in the practising school ; and
has in connection with it, at No. 8 St John Street, a
boarding-house for female students and pupils. The
Episcopalian Training Institution for schoolmasters and
schoolmistresses was formerly held in Minto House,
Argyle Square, but, being taken down in 1871 for the
forming of Chambers Street, is now held in Dairy
House, Orwell Place.
The Royal Blind Asylum, or asylum for blind men and
blind women, dates from 1793. It originated with Dr
Blacklock, David Miller, the Rev. Dr Johnston, and the
celebrated Wilberforce, and first occupied a house in
Shakepeare Square, whence it was removed in 1806 to
No. 58 Nicolson Street, where the large wareliouse still
is for the sale of the productions of the blind inmates.
It included another house at No. 38, obtained in 1822
for females, now used for the males who do not reside
with friends ; the females and the blind cliildren being
provided in 1876 with a spacious new building at "West
Craigmillar. The institution is managed by a body of
seventeen directors ; instructs and employs the males in
making mattresses, brushes, baskets, mats, and other
objects, and in weaving sackcloth, matting, and rag-
carpets, — the females in knitting stockings, sewing
covers for mattresses and feather beds, and in other em-
ployments: and had, as inmates, in 1870, 114 males and
513
EDINBURGH
34 females ; in 1875, 146 males and 26 females. Both of
its buildings in Nicolson Street were originally private
houses ; both were purchased for its own uses, and fitted
up with every requisite accommodation and appliance ;
and that at No. 58 was altered and adorned, about 1860,
at a cost of about £3500. A handsome new facade, with
stone-faced dormer windows, and a neat cornice and
balustrade, was then erected ; and is pierced with a large
central door-way, flanked by two spacious windows, and
surmounted by a bust of the Rev. Dr Johnston. The
new building at West Craigmillar stands on a rising-
gi'ound S of Powburn, and is approached from Ncwing-
ton Road, nearly opposite Echobank cemetery. It was
erected in 1874-76 at a cost of £21,000; is in light
French style, with a central handsome clock-tower 80
feet high, surmounted by dome and lantern ; has a fron-
tage 160 feet long, and chiefly three stories high ; and
contains a circular reception hall 111 feet in diameter, a
dining hall and chapel 115 feet long and 28 wide, a work-
room 72 feet long and 20 wide, and accommodation for
about 200 inmates. The school for blind children, prior
to its amalgamation with the Royal Blind Asylum, was in
a commodious building, originally a private house, at
No. 2 Gayfield Square ; was managed by a body of four-
teen directors ; and admitted boys and girls from 6 to 14
years of age. The Institution for the Deaf and Dumb
dates from 1810 ; stood originally in Chessels Court, in
Canongate ; and acquired, in 1826, an edifice off" the N
side of Henderson Row, in the western vicinity of the
Edinburgh Academy. It is managed by a body of fourteen
directors, and conducted by a principal, two assistant
teachers, a matron, a female teacher-, and a drawing
master ; and early acquired so much celebrity, by the
excellence and success of its system of training, as to be
made a model for similar institutions in other cities.
The building was erected, by subscription, at a cost of
£7000 ; is large, commodious, and of not unpleasing ap-
pearance ; and is surrounded with pleasant garden-
grounds.
The Roman Catholics have the following schools : —
St Patrick's and St Ann's in Cowgate, St Mary's in
Lothian Street, St John's in York Lane, and another
conducted by the Christian Brothers at Easter Road.
St George's day-school institution, founded by the
late Rev. Dr Andrew Thomson, at No. 10 Young Street,
All Saints in Glen Street, St Columba's in Johnston
Terrace, Dr Bell's schools in Niddry Street and Green-
side, the Original Industrial school in Ramsay Lane, the
United Industrial school in Blackfriars Street, the Carse
Industrial school off" Greenside, have buildings remark-
able either for commodiousness, elegance, or both.
Theological Colleges. — The Free Church College, or
New College, was instituted in 1843, and originally
occupied halls modified out of private houses on the S
side of George Street. It was removed in 1850 to a
new, spacious, imposing edifice of its own, in the
Pointed style of the 16th century, at the head of the
Mound, and is conducted by a principal and six professors,
occupying the chairs respectively of divinity, church
history, Hebrew and Oriental languages, exegetical
theology, evangelistic theology, and natural science ;
there being also a lecturer on elocution. Its winter
session extends from the first Wednesday of November
till an early day in April. The edifice was built in
1846-50, after designs by W. H. Playfair, at a cost of
about £30,000, and is conjoined on the E with the Free
High Church. It comprises a hollow quadrangle, with
interior court measuring 85 feet by 56 ; presents its
main frontage to the N, overlooking the Mound, and ex-
tending 165 feet from E to W ; measures 177 feet along
the flanks ; is divided into two stories, crowned by a
range of dormer windows ; has a groined archway
entrance surmounted by two large oriel windows, and
flanked by two square towers, rising to the height of
121 feet, buttressed at the corners from base to summit,
and terminating each in four heavy crocheted j)in-
nacles ; shows, at the NE corner, belonging to the Piigh
Church, a similar tower 96 feet high ; is adorned on the
S of its interior court with two octagonal towers sui'-
514
EDINBURGH
mounted by ogee roofs and gilt vanes ; contains a library
hall, a senate hall, nine class-rooms, and a number of
small apartments ; and has in the library hall a statue
of Dr Chalmers by Steell. The library, which was
begun only in 1843, now contains between 30,000 and
40,000 volumes, comprising many -works in patristic
theology, ecclesiastical history, and systematic theology,
while other branches of literature are comparatively
well represented.
The United Presbyterian Theological Hall was formerly
in Queen Street, between St David Street and Hanover
Street, forming a conjunct building with the United Pres-
byterian Synod Hall, and had till 1876 four professors
and a teacher of elocution. In that year a change of
session was made from two months in autumn to five
months in winter, and the curriculum was shortened from
five j'cars to three. The staff" now comj)rises a principal
and professors of New Testament literature and^exegesis,
Old Testament literature and exegesis, systematic
theology and apologetics, churcli history, and practical
training, etc., as well as a teacher of elocution. The
building was originally a private house, and was
exteriorly fitted with a plain large porch, and interiorly
altered to suit the uses of the Theological Hall, and to
give ingress to the Synod Hall ; and contained class-
rooms, library-rooms, and other apartments. The S3'nod
Hall, in the rear of the Theological Hall, was erected
in 1847 ; handsomely and suitably fitted up for the
business of the Synod, containing accommodation for
1100 persons ; and is still used on hire for the lectures
of the Edinburgh Philosophical Institution, as well as
for occasional public meetings — religious, educational,
philanthropic, and miscellaneous. The United Presby-
terian Theological and Sjaiod Halls now occupy a large
block of buildings on Castle Terrace, between Cromwell
Street and Cambridge Street, with fine open view to
Princes Street. These premises were originally de-
signed for the West End theatre, opened when in-
complete as to exterior condition at the close of 1875,
and intended to include an aquarium and winter garden
on its W side and a circus or music hall on the S, esti-
mated to cost altogether about £65,000. Built in a
style resembling Italian, worked upon geometric lines,
it presents its principal elevation to Castle Terrace,
with considerable ornamentation, and was designed
interiorly with much elegance, and had sittings for
3000. Purchased on the failure of the company
by the United Presbyterian Church in 1877, it was
subjected to considerable alteration both as to its
interior and exterior, and now contains one of the
largest halls in the city, designed jn-imarily for the
annual meetings of the Synod, and has lecture-room
for the professors, library, and offices for the various
scci-etaries and other officials of the Church. — The
Theological College of the Episcopal Church in Scotland
is at 9 Rosebery Crescent, and has lecturers on theology,
ecclesiastical history, apologetics, and pastoral theology.
The Protestant Institute of Scotland was organised in
1850, and originated in an effort to stem the increase of
Romanism. It has its premises on the W side of George
IV. Bridge, immediately S of the central or open
arches, and maintains classes, conducted by a pro-
fessor, for training students of all Protestant denomi-
nations in the polemics of the Romish controversy.
Its principal building was erected in 1862, partly to
afford requisite accommodation for its business, jjartly
to celebrate the tercentenary of the Reformation ; pre-
sents a neat front to George IV. Bridge ; and contains a
spacious hall and other ajjartments.
JEcclesiastical Balls. — Victoria Hall, the meeting-
place of the General Assembly of the Church of Scot-
land, and used also as the parochial church of Tolbooth
parish, stands at the forking of Lawnmarkct into Castle
Hill and Johnston Terrace, and occujjies a site only a few
feet lower than the Castle esplanade, and on a line with
the head of Grassmarket and the W side of the Mound.
Tliis hall was erected in 1842-44, after designs by
(Ullesjiie Graham, at a cost of about £16,000, and is in
the decorated Gothic style. It has an oblong form, 141
EDINBURGH
feet in length, extending E and W ; presents to the E a
main front, witli a massive tower pierced through the
basement with the grand entrance, crowned on the walls
wath a circle of turret pinnacles, and surmounted by
an elegant octagonal spire rising to the height of 241
feet from the ground ; shows, on each flank, live hand-
some windows and a corresponding number of buttresses
and pinnacles ; and is commodiously and neatly fitted,
in all respects, to suit the business of the Assembly.
The lower part of it is so closely adjoined by neighbour-
ing buildings and by a curve in Lawnmarket as to be
visible only at near distances ; but the spire, so adorned
as to look in the distance almost like a sheaf of pinnacles,
soars above all the surrounding houses, and is fully
seen, as a conspicuous feature of the city, from several
parts of it and of the surrounding country. Imme-
diately prior to the opening of Victoria Hall, the
Assembly met in St Andrew's parish church ; the
meeting-place for long previous periods being the S aisle
of St Giles' Church, and for a time between the Tron
Church. The parish church of Tolbooth was formerly
the western part of St Giles'.
The Free Church Assembly met, from 1843 till 1858,
in a large, plain, low-roofed hall, carved out of an
extensive suite of buildings in the stj'le of a Moorish
fortress, situated at Tanfield, on the Water of Leith,
opposite Canonmills, and erected in 1825 for an oil gas-
work, which proved unsuccessful. This place was the
scene, in 1835, of a great banquet to Daniel O'Connel,
and was used in 1847 for the amalgamation of the
United Secession and the Relief synods into the United
Presbyterian synod. The present Assembly Hall stands
on the N side of Castle Hill, opposite Victoria Hall,
and immediately S of the Free Church College, on
the site of the palace of Mary of Guise. It was
erected in 1858-59, after designs by David Bryce, at a
cost of about £7000, and is in a style to harmonise with
that of the Free Church College. It measures nearly 100
feet each way ; presents to Castle Hill a screen wall,
pierced by two entrances, and marked with panellings
and a bold stream course ; consists chiefly of a hall with
accommodation for about 1700 persons, and a s}»acious
corridor on the N side with pointed arches and deep
recesses ; and has its main entrance, from the college
quadrangle up flights of stairs, through that corridor.
"The Free Church offices are in a spacious edifice, erected
in 1859-61, after designs by Mr Cousin, in a florid variety
of the Scottish Baronial style, with frontage to the
Mound, and immediately E of t)ie Free Church College.
Established Churches. — St Giles' Church stands at
the junction of High Street, LawTimarket, Parliament
Square, and County Square. The original church on
the site was built before the year 854 ; but by whom, in
what circumstances, or why called St Giles', is not
known. A new church, in lieu of the original one, was
built in the early part of the 1 2th century by David I. ;
stood on the site of the north-western portion of the
present pile ; was extended, at different periods, by
additions of aisles, chapels, transepts, and a choir ; but
suffered demolition, in 1385, by an invading English
army under Richard II. A reconstruction of this
church, with seemingly much of the old masonry,
but consisting mainly of entirely new work, was com-
menced in 1387, and went forward, in successive por-
tions, at successive jicriods, all in the Early Gothic style
which then prevailed. It acquired, about 1454, a large
southern aisle, with richly groined ceiling, originally
called the Preston, but at length the Assembly aisle,
because used after the Reformation as the meeting-
place of the General Assembly. It underwent, in
1462, enlargement of its choir in a style of decorated
Gothic, with elevation of the central part into a cleres-
tory ; was constituted by James III., in 1466, a col-
legiate church, with a ])rovost, a dean, 16 prebend-
aries, a master of the choir, 4 choristers, a sacristan,
and a beadle, together with a number of chaplains
in attendance upon the 36 altars in the church, and
became crowded with monuments, armorial bearings,
and costly private lofts or galleries. It was partitioned,
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after the Reformation, into four churches and some
lesser apartments, and ]iut into re]iair by tlie proceeds
of the sale of the paraphernalia belonging to its altars and
connected with Romish ceremonies ; Avas, from 1633 till
1638, the cathedral of tlie brief bishopric of Edinburgh ;
witnessed, in July 1637, the well-known cutty-stool
exploit of Jenny Geddes, when the dean attempted to
introduce the Service Book, leading to events which
annulled Episcopacy and restored Presbyterianism ; and
witnessed also, in 1643, the swearing and subscribing of
the Solemn League and Covenant by the representatives
of the public bodies of Scotland ; but suffered much secu-
larisation in various parts, partly by the use of it as a
public exchange, and even a police station, i)artly by the
imprisonment for several months in 1666 of the Cove-
nanters taken at Rullion Green, and partly as a common
rendezvous for idle and dissolute persons. Till 1817
what with the Krames, the Luckenbooths, the Old
Tolbooth, a western range of shops, the south-western
range of New Tolbooth and Goldsmiths' Hall, and the
south-eastern piazza range of Parliament Close, it
was so enveloped as to be entirely hidden from view,
with the exception only of its surmounting tower
and parts of its southern and eastern fronts. It had
once the ordinary cathedral cruciform outline, but,
by additions, alterations, and curtailments, lost nearly
all trace of its original form ; and it was in styles of
architecture ranging from pure Norman till the latest
Pointed, but now shows no feature of an earlier date
than the 14th century, and scarcely any style except
a comparatively plain variety of Gothic. It under-
went, in 1829-32, under the direction of Mr Burn,
with aid of a government grant of £12,600, an extensive
renovation, w-hich, while giving it an aspect of fresh-
ness, harmony, and strength, swept away some of its
finest features, some of its unique parts, and nearly all
its antique character, so that now it presents exteriorly
an irregular, heavy, and comparativtily tasteless appear-
ance, with little of either the symmetry of form or grace
of decoration commonly found in edifices of its age and
class ; yet by its massive breadth, and especially by its
surmounting tower, it strikes the eye as grand and im-
pressive.
The length of the edifice, in its present form, is 206
feet, and its breadth at the W end 110 feet, at the
middle 129 feet, at the E end 76 feet. The steeple was
rebuilt in 1648, on the model of a previous one, which,
being weather-worn and dilapidated, reijuired to be
taken down ; it consists of square tower and lantern spire,
rises from the centre of the pile to a height of 161 feet
from the ground, and, being situated on an elevated
part of the High Street and Lawnmarket, is seen from
a great distance, and forms a characteristic feature in
all views of the city. The tower terminates in a Gothic
balustrade ; the spire comprises an open octagonal lan-
tern and a crowning spirelet, showing the form of an
imperial crown ; and the lantern consists of intersecting
arches, set with pinnacles. Within the sj)ire there is a
chime of bells, which are played every week-day for an
hour. The arrangement of the interior, since the Refor-
mation, has been repeatedly altered, as by the suppression
of one of the four parish churches, by changes on the
other three, and by disuse of the Assembly aisle for
Assembly purposes. In 1872, it comprised the High
Church in the E, the New North or West St Giles'
in the W, and Trinity College Church in the S, but was
freed from the last of these in 1878 by the erection of a
separate edifice for the Trinity College congregation ;
while, in 1881, that of West St Giles' was also removed
to a temporary church at the NE corner of Bruntsfield
Links, pending the erection of a new edifice at Argyle
Park Terrace, facing the West Meadows.
An interior restoration of St Giles' was proposed in
1867, but delayed till 1872, and the jiart first undertaken
was the choir or High Church. Begun ujider the direc-
tion of Mr W. Hay, the process of renewal laid hare and
restored to light many beautiful features in pillar, wall,
and roof, as the old fittings were cleared away ; the
passages were then relaid with tiles bearing anti(jue
£15
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Scottish devices ; an elccjant royal pew, ornate stalls
for the lords of session and civic dignitaries, comfortable
open seats for the congregation, and a reredos and pulpit
of Caen stone, were all erected, which, with various
other improvements, cost about £4490. In its reno-
vated form, this portion of St Giles' was reopened in
March 1S73. The southern part, occupied by the
Trinity College Church congregation, was next imder-
taken in February 1S79 ; began by lifting floors, re-
moving partitions, and opening up aisles ; and was com-
pleted in August 18S0 at a cost of about £3000, nearly
double the estimated sum for the restoration of this
portion. The most conspicuous additions at this date
were the ornamental tiles laid in the S transept and
the Moray aisle, also the very tasteful ii-on-grill in
the same aisle. From this aisle there is a descent of a
few steps to a crypt, in which are the tombs of the
Recent Murray, Alexander, fourth Earl of Galloway,
and the Earl of Athole, Lord High Chancellor of Scot-
land, with marble tablets indicating the names and
dates. From the crypt there is a further descent to the
vault in which was entombed the Marquis of Montrose,
in which the name and date, 1661, are likewise inscribed
on a tablet. When this vault was taken in hand, it
had been transformed into a coal cellar. It is now in
thorough order, and a few bones, being all that could
be recovered in the vault, have been interred under the
tablet on the floor. The Montrose vault is, perhaps, the
most interesting historical spot in St Giles'. This com-
pleted the restoration of two-thirds of the old cathedral,
and there remained only the nave, occupied by the
congregation of "West St Giles', to be undertaken. This
further restoration was completed in 1882, and in the
execution of it valuable specimens of 14th and 15th cen-
tury architecture have been discovered. This last portion
includes the Albany and St Eloise's (or Old Hammer-
men's) chapels. These two chapels, as well as three
arches of the southern aisle, being of a higher level than
the rest of the editice, are enclosed within handsome
screens of wrought iron. In a recess in the Albanj'
aisle it is designed to place a recumbent figure in white
marble of the dying Duke of Rothesay. All the win-
dows in St GUes' are in the Perpendicular style of Gothic
art which prevailed from the 14th to the 16th centuries,
and these are being filled with memorial windows in
stained glass, those in the choir being all illustrative of
the life of our Lord ; whilst the clerestory windows are
similarly filled with the armorial bearings of the several
incorporated trades of Edinburgh — the whole being the
design and workmanship of Messrs Ballantine & Sons,
under the superintendence of R. Herdman, R.S.A.
"When the work of restoration is fully completed, the
cathedral church of St Giles' will be of valuable service
to the historian and the student of architecture, and a
place of interest second to none within the confines of
Edinburgh. It only remains to be noted that much of
what has been done and is doing in the restoration of St
Giles', is owing in great measure to the public spirit and
generous liberality of Dr William Chambers, the emi-
nent publisher. {SeeEcgistrum Cartarum Ecclesvz Sancti
Egidii dc Edinburgh : a series of charters and original
documents connected with the church of St Giles', Edin-
burgh, ed. by D. Laing, Edinb. 1859 ; and Chambers's
Story of St Giles' Catlwlral Church, Edinb. 1879.)
Trinity College Church stood on the W side of the
foot of Leith Wynd ; was founded in 1462, by Mary of
Gueldres, consort of James II., as a collegiate church
for a provost, 8 prebendaries, and 2 choristers ; and was
originally called the Collegiate Church of the Holy
Trinity, but, after the Reformation, known as the College
Kirk ; and was removed in 1848 by the clearances for
the North British Railway. It consisted of choir, tran-
septs, and unfinished central tower, with a richness of
design and beauty of execution equal to those of the best
Gothic structures in England, and showed, in its salient
parts, a great variety of exquisite sculptures, some of
them in natural, but most in grotesque or monstrous fea-
ture. It had an apsidal termination of its choir, pierced
»»i-th three lofty and richly-traceried windows : was
516
entered, at the S aisle, by a very fine doorway, beneath
a beautiful porch with groined roof; was seated only
over the central aisle, leaving the pillars fully exposed
to view ; and had there a lofty roof, in very rich groin-
ing, with remarkable variety of detail. The mortal
remains of its royal foundress lay interred in an aisle on
the N .side ; but, at the taking down of the church, these
were reinterred in the royal cemetery at Holyrood. The
stones of the edifice were removed under registry by a
skilful architect, ^\■ith the view of being reconstructed
on some other site ; but, becoming the subject of sharp
and long-continued litigation, the}^ lay bleaching on a
slope adjacent to the Low Caltoii buryiug-ground till
1872. The scheme for re-erection was not matured till
1871 ; and it then merged in designs by the architect
Mr John Lessels, for an entirel}' new building to serve
as the church, with an annexe formed out of the old
materials to serve as a congi-egational hall.
The new structure is oblong, and stands with front
and main entrance toward Jeflrey Street, and with one
side abutting on Chalmers Close. The front contains
the main entrance, in form of an exact reproduction of
the deeply-moulded doorway, with surmounting Norman
Gothic arch, which formed so notable an ornament of
the original church ; is pierced, over the entrance, with a
large, pointed, traceried window ; and has, on each side of
that window, a niche for a statue. It terminates in a gable,
pierced with a circular cusped window, and surmounted
by a cross ; is flanked, on the W side of the gable, by a
square three-story tower 115 feet high — on the E side,
by a turret, carried up from the ground, and finished at
the top with a stone roof and ornamental finial ; and
measures 62 feet in ■width, inclusive of the tower and
turret, and 70 feet in height to the top of the cross.
The tower is pierced with ^\indows, has buttresses and
crocheted pinnacles ; and, at the height of 70 feet from
the ground, takes the form of a broached spire of
octagonal section, relieved, half-way up, with a row of
dormer windows. The side elevations are pierced with
rows of lancet-shaped windows of two, three, and four
lights, rise to the height of 35 feet in clear wall, and
are surmounted by a high-pitched roof of single span,
rising to the height of about 65 feet. Many of these
architectural details are reproductions of features in the
original church. A small building, at the S end of the W
side, contains an entrance lobby and a minister's room.
The pulpit is a handsome structure of carved and moulded
woodwork, and is another reproduction. The annexe is
mainly a reconstruction of the E end of the original
church, entirely from the old stones ; but, instead of
being placed end-on to the new structure, is so turned
round that the apse, with its three deeply-moulded
lancet windows, and its buttresses and ornamental
finials, stands as part of the E elevation of the composite
edifice. A gable, reproducing the old transept window,
forms a corresponding feature in the W elevation ; two
arches, representing two in the old nave, pierce the S
wall of the new building ; the width of the old nave,
and the height to the spring of the arch, respectively
24 and 48 feet, are preserved ; the length of the recon-
struction is 65 feet, nearly corresponding to the width
of the new church ; the arched spaces between the aisles
and the clerestory, with its beautiful roof of groined
stonework, reappear exactly as they were in the old
structure.
The Tron Church stands isolated in Hunter Square,
at the corner of High Street and South Bridge. It was
founded in 1637, opened in 1647, and completed in 1663,
at a cost of above £6000. Consecrated to Christ and the
Church, it received its name from being situated opposite
a public weighing beam or tron, called the Salt Tron. It
suffered curtailment in 1785, at the forming of South
Bridge ; lost the upper part of its original steeple, a
curious lead-covered wooden spire, by the great fire in
1824, but acquired, in 1828, a handsome new spire of
stone. It presents its main front, containing the en-
trance door- way, to High Street ; exhibits there char-
acters of architecture which have been styled the Scot-
tish Renaissance, but really do not belong to any regular
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stj'le, and cannot he callotl interesting;; has, in each face
of its tower, a clock-dial which is illuminated from the
inside after nightfall ; and acquired, in 1870, a large
stained-glass window, of triplet tracery, divided by a
transom. (See The Tron Kirk, Edinhurgh, a Lecture by
W. Findlay, Edinb. 1879.)
The Greyfriars' Churches, Old and New, stand in a
recess from the head of Candlemaker Row or S end of
George IV. Bridge; theytooktheirname from a monastery
founded by James I., situated at the SW corner of Grass-
market; and occupy a site on the cro^vn or south-eastern
portion of an enclosure, which rises gently from Grass-
market to the summit at the ancient boundary of the
city, and was long the park or garden of the monastery.
The monastery was an edifice of great size and much
magnificence; became, in 1449, the temporary residence
of the Princess Mary of Gueldres, and a few years after-
wards, the asylum of Henry VI. of England ; and was
demolished in 1559, the garden being then given by
Queen Marj' to the citizens to be used as a public
cemetery. The Old church was built in 1612 ; had origi-
nally an ungraceful form, relieved only by a steeple at its
W end ; lost that steeple in 1718, by an explosion of gun-
powder which had been lodged there by the city autho-
rities for security ; and was destroyed by fire in Jan. 1845.
It underwent restoration so tardily that it did not become
again serviceable till 1857, when it acquired windows of
beautifully stained-glass, and became notable as the first
Presbyterian Established church to adopt the use of the
organ. It numbers among its ministers Principal Rollock,
Principal Carstares, Principal Robertson, Dr John
Erskine, Dr John Inglis, Dr Guthrie, and Dr Robert
Lee ; and contains a beautiful medallion monument to
Dr Lee, sculptured by Hutchison, and put up in 1S70.
This church figures in Sir "Walter Scott's Guy Mannering ;
and is famous for the signing of the Solemn League
and Covenant in 1638, partly within its walls, and partly
on a neighbouring tombstone. — New Grej'friars was
built in 1721 at a cost of £3045, adjoining the W end of
the Old church. It forms, conjointly with the Old
chiu'ch, a lengthy oblong edifice, with broad slated roof
and comparatively plain appearance. It shared in the
fire which destroyed the Old church in 1845, but suffered
much less injury, and was soon restored for use.
Lady Tester's Church was founded in 1647 by Dame
Margaret Ker, Lady Tester, being built, and partly en-
dowed from a gift of 15, 000 merks, by that lady. It stood
a little to the E of the site of the new church which super-
seded it, and was surrounded by a small cemetery now
covered with buildings. The new Lady Tester's Church
was erected in 1803 on the N side of Infirmary Street,
a pliin structure, without a spire, and has a quaint
nondescript front, sometimes erroneously described as
Gothic. In 1865, it underwent window decoration
and internal improvement at a cost of about £600, and
again, in Oct. 1881, was further altered and improved at
a cost of about £700. — St John's Church stands on the
S side of Victoria Street, was built in 1838, and is a
large edifice, in mixed architecture, with a Saxon door-
way, and without a tower.- — Greenside church stands
on the northern slope of Calton Hill, at the W end of
Royal Terrace, and is sufficiently isolated to expose all
its sides to view. It was mainly built in 1838, but
did not acquire the greater part of its tower till 1851 ;
is a quasi-cruciform structure, in very poor modem
Gothic ; has a tower of only two stages, crowned with
poor pinnacles ; and, being a conspicuous object in the
near neighbourhood of great masses of Grijeco-Italian
architecture, is a blot upon the landscape. — The Gaelic
church stood at the corner of Horse Wynd and Argyle
Square, adjacent to the W end of North College Street,
and was a plain building, without a spire. Being pur-
chased by the City Improvement Trustees for £6000,
it was removed in the clearances for Chambers Street in
1871. The congregation, after worshipping for a time
in the Reformation Society's Hall in George IV. Bridge,
occupy now a place of their own in Broughton Street,
which was some years ago vacated by the congregation
of the Catholic Apostolic church.
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St George's Church stands on the W side of Char-
lotte Square, on a line with George Street. It was
erected in 1811-14, after designs by Robert Reid, at a
cost of £33,000 ; is in massive Gneco-Italian style, on
a square ground-plan measuring 112 feet each way ; and
is surmounted by a miniature of the dome of St Paul's
in London, but so large and beautiful as to be more like
a reduced copy than a mere miniature. The church
front, toward the square, has a lofty Ionic portico, with
four columns and two pilasters, between two compara-
tively plain projecting wings — the columns rising from
the platform of a flight of steps, and surmounted by
only an entablature and a balustrade, with a heavy
and tasteless appearance. The domed superstructure
comprises — first, a square basement, with massive cor-
nice ; next, a circular tower, engirt with an attic-
Corinthian colonnade ; next, a great lead-covered dome,
and then, successively, a cyclostyle lantern, cupola, and
cross, — the last at the height of 150 feet from the
ground, the whole being finely proportioned, admirably
executed, and gi-acefuUy impressive. It figures very
nobly both in near views around the square, and in all
the general views of the New Town. — St Luke's Church
stands in Toung Street, was originally a chapel of ease
to St George's, and is a large, plain, modern edifice,
without a tower.
St Andrew's Church stands on the N side of George
Street, opposite the Commercial Bank. It was built in
1785, in i)lain oval form, without a steeple, but acquired
afterwards an attached structure on its front, compris-
ing an elegant tetrastyle Corinthian portico, surmounted
by a tower and spire 168 feet high ; and is notable as the
meeting-place, in 1843, of the General Assembly, at
which occurred the Disruption, or secession of the Free
Church. It imderwent interior improvement and de-
coration in 1862. The tower is of three stages, very
symmetrical and adorned with pillars, and contains a
fine chime of eight bells ; the spire is octagonal and
beautifully tapering ; and the two together form a
graceful steeple, which figures conspicuously in almost
every view of the New Town. — St Stephen's Church
stands at the foot of the northern New Town, on a site
confronting the line of St Vincent Street. It was
erected in 1826-28, after designs by W. H. Playfair, at a
cost of £21,000 ; is in a mixed style of architecture ; has
an octagonal outline and heavj- appearance ; and presents
to St Vincent Street a narrow fa9ade, with spacious lofty
flight of steps, leading to a massive arched doorway,
flanked by comparatively plain receding fronts, and
surmounted by a massive square tower, rising 163 feet
from the ground, and terminating in a lofty balustrade,
with elegant double cross at each angle. Its com-
modious interior underwent considerable alteration and
renovation consequent upon the introduction of an
organ in 1880. — St Mary's Church stands in the centre
of the unfinished Bellevue Crescent. It was built in
1824, after designs by Thomas Brown, at a cost of
£24,000 ; has an oblong form, with the NE end as
its main front ; and is adorned there, from the plat-
form of a spacious flight of steps, with a noble, lofty,
hexastyle, pedimented Corinthian portico, surmounted
by a tower of three stages, terminating in a cupolar
superstructure, rising to the height of 186 feet. The
first stage of the tower is square, and has Doric pillars
at its corners ; the second and the third stages are
circular, and have respectively Ionic and Corinthian
jiillars around tliem ; the cupola is little more than an
arched stone roofing over the third stage, and entirely
out of harmony ^vitli the rest of the pile, but is crowned
by a beautiful, small, open cyclostyle in the form of a
lantern.
St Cuthbert's or West Church has been noticed in
the section on St Cuthbert's parish. — St Bernard's
Church stands in West Clarcmont Street, was built in
1823 as a chapel of ease to St Cuthbert's, and is a
spacious and comparatively plain edifice, with a low,
neat steeple. — Buccleuch church stands in Buccleuch
Street, opposite Crosscauseway, 120 yards E of George
Square, and was erected in 1755, as a chapel of ease to St
517
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Cuthbert's, at a cost of £800 ; but, being a very
unsightly structure, it underwent restoration and em-
bellishment in 1866, after designs by D. M 'Gibbon, at
a cost of more than £2000. It has now a lofty gable over
its entrance, and a turret 70 feet high on its S side, and
is adorned with several very fine memorial windows,
one of them erected by the Marijuis of Bute to the
memory of his ancestress, Flora, daughter of Macleod of
Easay. — St David's Church stands in Gardner's Cres-
cent, was originally a chapel of ease to St Cuthbert's,
and has a Grecian portico, but very plain flank. — Dean
church stands in the suburb of Dean, erected as a
chapel of ease to St Cuthbert's, and has been already
referred to under Dean. — Lady Glenoruhy's Church, in
Roxburgh Place, was built in 1809 as a chapel of ease to
St Cuthbert's ; was long called Roxburgh church ; and is
a plain edifice. The original Lady Glenorchy's Church
sprang from the beneficence of the wife of John Vis-
count Glenorchy. It was, for some time, a rented chapel
in Niddry's Wynd, designed for Evangelical ministers of
all denominations ; but by-and-by a large plain edifice of
1774, situated at the foot of Leith Wynd, in connection
\nth the Establishment, and demolished for the North
British Railway in 1845. It is now represented, on
the part of the Establishment, by Roxburgh church,
and on the part of the Free Church, by a new edifice in
Greenside Place. — Grange church stands at the corner
of Kilgraston Road and Strathearn Road ; was erected
in 1871, after designs by Robert Morham, at a cost of
about £6000, as a memorial to Professor James Robert-
son ; and consists of nave and transepts, with a steeple
in the centre of the breast gable, rising to a height of
150 feet. — Morningside church stands on the E side of the
upper part of Morningside suburb, and has been already
referred to under Morningside. — Newington church is
on the S side of Clerk Street, a little N of Ne^ington ;
was erected in 1823 as a chapel of ease to St Cuthbert's ;
is a neat, large, oblong edifice, with a Roman end front,
and a steeple 110 feet high. — Abbey church stands on
the S side of London Road, near Abbeyhill station ; was
erected in 1875-76 at a cost of about £7000 ; is a hand-
some edifice in the Gothic style, with tower and spire ;
contains 850 sittings ; and serves for a quoad sacra parish
formed out of Greenside and South Leith parishes. — St
Leonard's Church stands in Parkside Place, opposite the
E end of Lutton Place ; was built in 1876 at a cost of
about £5500 ; contains 900 sittings ; and serves for a
quoad sacra parish formed out of St Cuthbert's, Lady
Yester, and Newington parishes. — Queen's Park church
stands in Prospect Place, Dumbiedykes Road ; is in the
Gothic style, \s4th a spire rising 150 feet, having accom-
modation for 850 sittings ; and cost about £4000. — AVest
Coates church stands on the Glasgow Road, not far
from Donaldson's Hospital ; was erected in 1869, after
designs by Mr Bryce, at a cost of £7500, as a chapel of
ease to St Cuthbert's ; is in the later Pointed style, with
a tower and spire 130 feet high ; and has been pro-
nounced ' clumsy, squat, and badly detailed. ' — Mayfield
church is in Ne\vington, and is also a neat, though
small, building in Gothic style, with handsome interior.
A new church is at present in progress (1882) at North
Merchiston, which is estimated to cost £13,000.
Free Churches. — Barclay Church stands on the western
verge of Bruntsfield Links, opposite the entrance to
Gillespie Crescent, and was erected in 1862-63, after
designs by F. T. Pilkington, at a cost of £10,000, de-
frayed from a bequest by a lady named Barclay. It is a
curiously intricate example of the Venetian-Gothic style,
pronounced by Professor Blackie, 'full of individual
beauties or prettinesses in detail, yet, as a whole, dis-
orderly, inorganic, and monstrous.' It has an elegant
tower and spire, rising to the height of 250 feet, reliev-
ing the monotony of tne surrounding scenery, and figur-
ing grandly from many distant points of view. Barclay
Church underwent considerable interior alteration in
1880, addin" materially to the comfort of the congrega-
tion.— Buccleuch church stands in the western sec-
tion of Crosscauseway, nearly confronting the Esta-
blished Buccleuch church. It was erected in 1856
518
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in pleasing Gothic style, and acquired, in 1861-62, after
a design by Hay of Liverpool, a lofty, well-proportioned,
octagonal spire. — Canongate or John Knox's Church is
on the N side of Netherbow, immediately E of John
Knox's House, and was erected in 1850. It has a remark-
ably beautiful facade of florid Gothic, terminating in
four richly crocheted pinnacles, and in a decorated
pediment, surmounted by a cross. — Cowgate and Cow-
gatehead churches are comparatively recent buildings,
erected on the territorial principle for Cowgate district.
— Dairy church is at the corner of Cathcart Place, Dairy.
It is a very handsome building, with fine front and en-
trance porch, with several pinnacles on its roof, and at
its western corner a very graceful spire rising from
a lantern tower. It has a congregational hall with
rotunda-shaped front at its eastern side. — Dean church
has been already noticed. — Grange or Chalmers' Memo-
rial Church stands at the angle of Lovers' Loan and
opposite Grange cemetery. It was erected in 1866,
after designs by Patrick Wilson, at a cost of £5000,
as a memorial of Dr Chalmers ; consists of nave and
transepts, respectively 60 aud 67 feet long, and each
31 feet wide ; is in the Geometric style, with a highly-
pitched gable on the nave, forming the principal front ;
has there a large four-light traceried window above
the entrance door-way ; and was designed to have an
octagonal spire, surmounting a three-stage tower, and
rising to the height of 165 feet. — Greyfriars' Church is
in Graham Street, and has a neat Saxon front, with two
small turrets aud a pediment. — High Church forms the
eastern part of the Free Church College buildings, is of
plainer character than the rest of these buildings, and
has, on its E side, a small neat porch. — Holyrood church
stands amid a block of buildings immediately W of the
Palace-yard of Holyrood, and is a plain edifice.
Lady Glenorchy's Church stands in Greenside Place,
opposite the junction of Picardy Place and Leith Walk ;
and has a factitious front in the Tudor style, with low,
broad, embattled tower. — M'Crie Church stands in
Davie Street, is a plain large building, formerly be-
longed to the Original Secession, and is notable for the
ministry in it of Dr M'Crie, the biogi'apher of Knox and
Melville. — Martyrs' Church, originally belonging to the
Reformed Presbyterians, amalgamated with the Free
Church in 1876, and is on the W side of George IV.
Bridge. It was built in 1860, and has a Gothic front ;
a former building being in Lady Lawsou's Wynd. — May-
field church is at the corner of St Andrew's Terrace and
Mayfield Loan ; is Gothic in style, cruciform in plan ;
and has a very neatly decorated doorway and frontage. —
Moray Church stands in the grounds of Moray House,
contiguous to South Back of Canongate ; was erected in
1862 ; and is a reduced copy of Barclay Church, without
the tower. — Morningside church has been already noticed
under Morningside. — Newington church is on the E side
of Clerk Street, a short distance S of Newington Esta-
blished church ; was built partly in plain style immedi-
ately after the Disruption, partly somewhat ornately a
number of years later ; and is a spacious edifice, with a
Gothic front. — New North Church stands in the sharp
angle at the junction of Forrest Road and Bristo Place,
confronting the line of George IV. Bridge. It was erected
about 1846 ; is an oblong edifice in the Gothic .style,
with main front on the end toward George IV. Bridge ;
and has, on the basement of that front, a projection
about 12 feet outward, adorned with an unfinished Gothic
colonnade. — Pilrig church stands at tlio N corner of
Pilrig Street and Leith Walk, and was erected in 1861-62,
after designs by Peddie & Kinnear, at a cost of about
£6000. It is in the French-Gothic style, has two wheel
windows toward respectively Pilrig Street and Leith
Walk, and is surmounted by an octagonal spire 150
feet high. — Roseburn church stands near Coltbridge and
Murrayfield, and is a handsome modern edifice, with a
spire. — Pleasance church was a plain building in Pleas-
ance, but the congregation, in 1875, purchased the In-
dependent Chapel in Riclimond Place, an edifice erected
about 1842, and presenting pleasant Early Gothic
features. — Roxburgh church has a rear front to Rich-
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mond Place, and a neat porch opening into Hill Square,
and is a plain building. — St Andrew's Churcli stands
behind the street-line of the S side of George Street, and
is entered by a lobby through the house which was
occupied till 1850 by the Free Church College.— St
Bernard's Church stands on the S side of Henderson
Row ; was erected, in lieu of a previous building, in
1856 ; and is in the Gothic style, consisting of nave and
aisles ^Tith a small spiral tower. — St Columba's or the
Gaelic Church and St Cuthbert's Church stand in short
streets between Castle Terrace and Lothian Road, and
are neat Gothic structures. — St David's Church stands
in Morrison Street, and is a plain building, with a large
hall behind, added in 1881.
St George's Church stands at the comer of Shandwick
Place and Stafford Street, and superseded a previous
church in Lothian Road on ground now occupied by the
Caledonian station. It was built in 1866-69, after designs
by David Bryce, at a cost, including site, of about
£31,000 ; is in the Palladian style, perfestly classical, but
with an aspect which would have been suited equally for
a music hall. It presents its main front to Shandwick
Place, with an entrance flanked by coupled Ionic columns,
and slightly projecting wings adorned with Corinthian
attached columns, and has also an elaborately finished
flank to Stafford Street. It measures 125 feet in length
and 78 feet in width ; includes, over a vestibule and
corridor, a large congregational hall ; is fitted with low-
backed seats, open at the ends ; and has a platform,
instead of a pulpit, in an apse with semi-dome roof,
supported by six pillars of polished Peterhead syenite.
In 1882 a spire was added, rising from the SW corner
of the building, where from the level of the church roof
the campanile springs as a plain square tower, buttressed
at the corners, and pierced with one small window near
the base, to a height of 68 feet. Here the buttresses are
finished off with scrolls, while round the tower is carried
a deep frieze enriched with festoon ornaments. Over
the tower rises the belfry, sho^ving double pilasters at
each corner, and having each side divided by Corinthian
pillars into three-arched openings. Then comes another
frieze and cornice, which supports the lantern forming
the crowning stage of the structure. The angles of the
octagonal lantern are filled with vases, each of the eight
sides presents a round-headed arch, and the pp-amidal
top terminates in a small ornamental finial at the height
of 185 feet from the ground. There has been much dis-
cussion as to the harmony of the spire with the building.
— St John's Church stands at the E end of Johnston
Terrace, close by what in old times was the "West Bow
Port, and was erected in 1847, after designs by Robert
Harailton, in a mixed style of Earl}' Gothic, with a con-
siderable amount of pleasing embellishment. It presents
its main front, with a moderate elevation, to the junction
of Lawnmarket and Johnston Terrace, nearly opposite
Victoria Hall ; rests its rear front on a lofty substruction
facing Victoria Street, nearly opposite St John's Esta-
blished Church ; and is notable for the ministry in it of
Dr Guthrie and Dr Hauna. — St Luke's Church stands
behind the house-line of Queen Street ; is entered by a
lobby thence ; and has, on the house-line, a factitious
front, in the Tudor style, with two crocheted turrets.
St Mary's Church is at the N corner of Albany Street
and Broughton Street, superseding a previous edifice in
Barony Street, and was erected in 1859-61, after designsby
J. T. Rochead, at a cost of about£13,000. It is in a mixed
style of Third Pointed and Tudor; exhibitssome fine work,
with occasionally an excess of detail ; and has a richly
carved steeple 180 feet high. — St Paul's Church stands
in St Leonard's Street, nearly opposite the end of Ran-
keillor Street. It was built before the Disruption, and
has a plain Roman front, surmounted by a quadrangular
belfry, each face of which is pierced with a wide arch. —
St Stephen's Church is in Wemyss Place, and was formed
out of the upper parts of large private houses ; and
shows lofty windows, surmounted by a broad entablature.
— Stockbridge church, adjacent to the foot of Dean
Street, in Stockbridge, was erected in 1867 out of the
materials of St George's Church in Lothian Road, and is
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mainly an exact reproduction of that church, originally
built after a design by Mr Cousin. It is in the Anglo-
Norman style, with some mimic arcade decorations and
two carved turrets, and acquired much heaviness of as-
pect by the carrying up of its original front into a broad
pyramidally-roofed tower. — Tolbooth Church stands
behind the N side of St Andrew Square, with rear and
flank exposure to the view from Queen Street, being
entered by a lobby through a house from St Andrew
Square. It was erected in 1857, and is in the Gothic
style, with large end window and roof-lights. — Tron
Church was formerly in a close off High Street, quite
concealed from general view, but now occupies an ornate
building in Chambers Street, opposite the Industrial
Museum. — Viewforth Church stands at the end of West
Gilmore Place, and was built in 1871-72, after designs by
Pilkington & Bell, at a cost of about £4500. It is in the
Geometric-Gothic style ; includes a sunk story, with
school-room and vestry ; and has an ornate front, with
large central gable, smaller side gable, and a corner
tower 120 feet high. — West Port church stands in West
Port, was erected as the result of Dr Chalmers' personal
territorial mission work, and is in the Gothic style.
United Presbyterian Churches. — Argyle Place church
is cruciform in plan, presenting a gabled front to Car-
lung Place, through which is the principal entrance by
a projecting porch, with the doorway recessed and
flanked on both sides by two engaged columns, sup-
porting a finely carved arch pediment, flanked on the
NW angle with a square tower, above which a graceful
spire rises to a height of 150 feet from the ground ; the
whole is in Pointed Gothic style, and cost about £5000.
— Arthur Street church belonged originally to Baptists ;
was purchased in 1833, by a Relief congregation, for
£2100 ; and became United Presbyterian at the imion
of the Relief and the United Secession. — Blackfriars
Street church stands in Blackfriars Street, superseded
a previous place of worship occupied as a mission
church, was erected in 1871 at the rebuilding of the
Blackfriars Sh'eet portion of the city improvements,
and is a neat edifice. — Bread Street church was built in
1831, and has a Roman front with pilasters and
pediment. — Bristo Street church is in a court off
Bristo and Marshall Streets, and is on the site of
the oldest dissenting Presbyterian church in Edin-
burgh. It was built in 1802 at a cost of £4084,
enlarged at a cost of £1515, interiorly renovated in
1872 at a cost of about £1300 ; and is neat and very
spacious. — Broughton Place church stands across the E
end of Broughton Place ; was built in 1821 at a cost of
£7095, and'repaired and altered in 1853 and 1870 each
time at a cost of about £2000 ; has a Roman front, with
elegant tetrastyle Doric portico ; and is notable for the
ministry of the Rev. Dr John Brown. — Canongate
church superseded a previous place of worship used
as a mission church, was built in 1869 at a cost of
£3200, and is in the Early Pointed style.— College
Street church is in South College Street, was re-
built in 1857, has a front in the Florentine style, and is
roofed and lighted in the manner of a Gothic cleres-
tory.—Colston Street church is in a new street of that
name off Leith Walk, and is neat and elegant.— Dr
Davidson Memorial Church stands in Eyre Place, Canon-
mills, and is occupied by the congi-egation which for-
merly worshipped in the Synod Hall, Queen Street. —
Dairy Road or Haymarket church, a short distance SW
of Haymarket station, superseded an iron structure of
1871, destroyed by a storm in Oct. 1874; was erected
in 1875 at a cost of about £5000 ; includes a basement
tower, intended to be surmounted by a spire ; is in the
Gothic Romanesque style, with joint buttresses rising
to a height of about 100 feet ; and contains 840 sittings.
—Dean" Street church stands in Stockbridge, and was
built in 1828 at a cost of £2100.— Hope Park church
is adjacent to the E end of the Meadows, in the
near vicinity of the Newington Established and Free
churches ; superseded a previous church of 1793 in
Potterrow ; was erected in 1867 ; and is a handsome
edifice.— Infirmary Street church was built in 1822,
519
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belonged for a time to the protesting Antiburgliers,
was noted for the ministry of Rev. Dr Paxton, came
into its present connection in 1S56, and is adorned in
front with Doric pilasters. — James Place church was
built in 1800 at a cost of £3600, and repaired in 1828
at a cost of £650 ; and is plain but spacious. —Lauriston
Place church was built in 1859, is a handsome Gothic
structure, a large congregational hall being recently
added to its western side. — London Road church stands
at the corner of London Road and Easter Road ; was
erected in 1874-75 ; is in the Pointed style, with a tower
and spire 160 feet in height ; and contains 950 sittings.
— Lothian Road church was built in 1831, and has an
Italian front of three stories, with recessed centre, rusti-
cated basement, and surmounting balustrade. — Mor-
ningside church has been already noticed. — Newington
church stands at the corner of Grange Road and Cause-
wayside ; superseded a previous church in Duncan
Street, purchased in 1847 from Baptists ; was erected
in 1862-63 ; and is in the Early Pointed style, Avith a
tower. — Nicolson Street church stands near the S end
of Nicolson Street ; was built in 1819 at a cost of
£6000 ; has a broad Gothic front, with tuiTet pinnacles
90 feet high ; and is notable for the ministry of the
Rev. Dr John Jamieson, author of the Scottish Dic-
tionary and of various theological works. — North Rich-
mond Street church is small and neat. — Palmerston
Place church stands on the SW side of the street, a
little SW of Coates Crescent ; was erected in 1873-75
at a cost of about £13,000 ; is in classic Italian style,
mth a hexastyle portico of circular-headed arches, and
\\-ith two massive iianking towers about 100 feet high ;
and contains about 1100 sittings. — Portsburgh church,
in the Vennel, was built in 1828 at a cost of £1927.
The congregation removed in 1881 to a new church in
Gilmore Place, costing £4600. — Rose Street church was
rebuilt in 1830 at a cost of £3042, and presents to the
street the greater side of an oblong, in Roman architec-
ture, with pilasters and balustrades. — Rosehall church
is on the E side of Dalkeith Road, adjoining Rosehall
Terrace ; is small and ornate in appearance ; has two side
entrances, arched and supported by pUastei's ; recessed
over each of these are square towers, with open stone-
work lanterns at top ; has a font of Caen stone like that
of St Giles' ; behind is a large congregational hall.
Episco2}alian Churches. — St Jlary's Cathedral Church
for the diocese of Edinburgh stands on the E side of
Palmerston Place, in a direct line with Melville Street.
It originated in a bequest by the Misses Walker, who
OAvned the estate of Coates, comprising the sites of Coates
Crescent, Walker Street, Melville Street, and several
other thoroughfares in West End, and yielding a revenue
of £20,000, which represents a capital of about £400,000.
The Avliole was bequeathed for erecting and endowing a
cathedral, and for purposes connected with it, so far as
the funds would allow, and they became available in
1870. The work was begun in 1874 from designs by
Sir Gilbert Scott, after whose death, in March 1878, the
building was carried on and completed by his son, Mr
John Oldrid Scott, and formally consecrated and opened
in Oct. 1879. The cathedral is cruciform in ])lan, with
lofty central tower and spire ; the nave, choir, and
transepts are respectively seven, four, and two bays
in length ; each of the four arms have aisles on both
sides, and by the aixangement of the reredos the choir
aisles are connected at the E end. At the W end the
nave aisles are terminated by two steeples ; but the
funds were not available for carrying these above the
roof-level of the nave, the cathedral being thus deprived
of a most interesting external feature. The style is that
which preceded the Early Pointed, and is partly founded
on that of Holyrood and Jedburgh Abbeys, and others of
the finest churches in Scotland. The choir, crossings,
and aisles are groined in stone, the nave and trausejits
in wood. The four fa9adcs are varied in designs : the
E end has three lancets commencing at the height of
15 feet, above is a range of niches containing figures
about life size, while over these is an ornate design of a
seated figure of our Lord in glory, a series of anguls being
520
EDINBURGH
grouped around ; the fronts of the N and S transepts
possess wheel windows ; the AV front is occupied by a
great arch, within which are four lancet Avindows of
equal size and design, a beautiful rose window being
above these. In this front is the main entrance, AA-ith
recessed arch and elaborate carving ; the doorway is
double, being divided by a central pier, on which rests
a sculptured tympanum. The total external length is
262 feet ; width across transepts, 132i feet ; across nave
and aisles, 75 feet ; internal height of nave, 71 feet ;
choir, 60 feet ; of ridge of roof externally, 84 feet ;
diameter of central tower, 42 feet ; height of spire, 225
feet. Internally the whole is of rich design — the pave-
ment of the choir being of Sicilian marble and tiles ;
the wooden fittings, stalls, bishop's throne, etc. , being of
walnut wood. In 1880 there was added a reredos at the
upper end of the chancel, of reddish-veined alabaster
A\'ith enrichments of variously coloured marbles, and
sculptures in white Carrara — the most important of the
latter being a relievo of the Crucifixion by Miss Grant.
The structure is approached by steps from the level of
the chancel floor ; presents a central elevation and two
receding wings. The lower stage consists of a plain
base 5 feet high, with a row of medallions, and sur-
mounted by a carved cornice. Over this rises upon two
pairs of marble shafts a wide pointed arch, decorated
with beautiful carving, and carrying a crocheted gablet
with ornamental cross by way of finial ; the gablet sup-
ports four angelic figures, and its tympanum is pierced
by a six-leaved opening. Within and behind this arch
is a second, supported at either side by four columns of
pinkish Jura marble. Behind this again comes an
arcade of three openings, resting on four octagonal
columns of a darker shade, forming a screen to the
central relievo of the Crucifixion, which entirely fills
the three openings. Two statues occupy the flanking
wings of the reredos — on one side St Margaret of Scot-
land, on the other St Columba bearing the crosier of St
Fillan. (See History of the Erection of the Cathedral
Church of St Mary, Edinb. 1879.)
St Paul's Church, on the N side of the E end of York
Place, was previously the bishop's church or quasi-
cathedral, and was erected in 1816-18, after designs by
Archibald Elliot, at a cost of about £12,000. It consists
of nave and aisles, standing E and W, and measuring 123
feet by 73, and is an elegant edifice in the later Pointed
style, with some intermixture of Tudor. Rich mould-
ings, fine tracery, crocheted pinnacles, and beautiful
Gothic balustrades adorn the street side and the two
ends ; a grand window is in the E, re-decorated with
painted glass in 1850 ; and four octagonal turrets,
almost wide and high enough to be called towers, all of
one pattern, rise from the four angles of the inner walls,
and are cut throughout their upper parts into open
ornate stone-work. The organ was originally built in
1774 by Schnetzler for the church which preceded the
present, and underwent, from time to time, such improve-
ments as won for it the reputation of being the finest
organ in Scotland. It underwent further improvement
in 1870 ; measures 27 feet in length and 30 in height;
and has forty stops, besides eight couplers. This church
is notable also for the ministry in it of the Rev. Archi-
bald Alison, author of Essays on Taste, who died
in 1839.
St John's Church stands at the corner of Princes
Street and Lothian Road, and was erected in 1818, after
designs by W. Burn, at a cost of £15,000. It is an ob-
long edifice, with nave and aisles, 113 feet long and 62
wide, and is in a florid Gothic style, with details copied
from St George's Chapel at Windsor. It is adorned on the
sides with beautiful windows, symmetrical buttresses,
finely crocheted pinnacles, and large niches with richly-
carved brackets and canopies ; is surmounted at the W
end by a square well-proportioned tower, pierced through
i\iG liascmeiit witli a noble doorway, relieved in its sides
by beautiful windows, and crowned, at the height of
120 feet, with ornate pinnacles ; rests along the S side
on ornamental burial-vaults, with a terrace and other
burial-vaults to the S ; and ha.-i attached to its E end a
EDINBURGH
large low vestry, in a style harmonious with the main
building. The pillars and arches of the interior are
light and symmetrical ; the middle roof is ornamented
mth mouldings and a profusion of decorations ; the
great E window is 30 feet high, and exhibits figures of
the twelve apostles by Eggiugtou, of Birmingham ; the
reredos is a splendid erection of 1871, after designs by
Peddie & Kinnear ; and the organ is a very fine instru-
ment. An addition of a new chancel at the E end was
made in 18S2. This erection has a length of 25 feet
and a width of 21 feet, having large traceried windows
in each of its sides ; is carried to the full height of the
nave ; and finishes on the top with ornamental parapet
and pinnacles. A new entrance door in the side next
Princes Street gives access to the church and to the
choir vestry below the chancel. The total cost of those
later alterations was about £2600. Dean Ramsay, the
author of Reminiscences of Scottish Life and Character,
Avas long incumbent of St John's. A school-chapel, con-
nected with St John's, stands in Earl Grey Street ; was
built in 1852, and enlarged in 1862 ; and is a plain
cruciform structure, used as a school on work-days,
and as a chapel on Sabbaths.
Trinity Church is at the NW end of Dean Bridge,
and is noticed in the paragraph on Dean. — St George's
Church stands on the S side of York Place, was built
in 1794 after designs by Robert Adam, and is a quaint-
looking edifice, in a mbced style of Gothic and
Grecian. — All Saints' Church, in Brougham Street, was
erected in 1867, after designs by R. Anderson, at a cost
of about £4000 ; consists of nave, aisles, transepts, and
octagonally-ended chancel ; is surmounted, at the SW
comer of the nave, by a tower 110 feet high, ^vitli
richl}--moulded belfry stage and saddle-backed roof ; and
in 1875-76, at a cost of about £1500, underwent much
alteration and improvement. It has a school attached,
entering^ also from Glen Street. — St Andrew's Church
stands in the South Back of Canongate, opposite St
John Street ; was built in 1857 ; and is a small oblong
edifice of unpolished stone in the Saxon style, A\-ith an
apse and a low square tower. — St Columba's Church,
in Johnston Terrace, is a Gothic building, with only
one flank exposed to full view ; and has, at its W end,
a low square battlemented tower. — St James' Church
stands on the N side of the W end of Broughton Place,
and is a large plain building, uniform vtith the con-
tiguous range of private houses. — St Peter's Church
is in Lutton Place. It is a plain, high-roofed Gothic-
windowed edifice of 1858, aud has a tower and spire of
later date, too large and lofty to harmonise v.'ith its o^vn
bulk. — St Paul's Church, in Carrubber's Close, already
referred to, was built by the Jacobites immediately
after the Revolution. It was cleared away on the for-
mation of Jeffrey Street, and a new Gothic edifice is
being erected in its place in the new street. — Christ
Church Scottish Episcopalian Church stands at Mor-
ningside, and has been already noticed.
St Thomas' English Episcopalian Church stands
compact with private houses on the E and the AV ;
presents a S front to Caledonian Station ; has a N front
in the recess-angle facing the point where Princes
Street, Hope Street, Queensferry Street, and Maitland
Street meet ; and is adorned there, in the Norman
style, with a beautiful porch, some exquisite mimic
arcade-work, and a profusion of chevron ornaments. —
Christ Church English Episcopalian Church stands in
St Vincent Street, opposite St Stephen's Established
Church ; was built in 1856 ; is a small Gothic edifice,
■with nave, chancel, N aisle, and spirelet ; and looks both
dwarfish and ambitious in comparison with the con-
fronting massive form of St Stephen's.
Other Churches. — The United Original Secession
Church stands at the W end of Victoria Terrace ; was
built in 1866 at a cost of about £1700 ; is in the
Byzantine style, with an ornamented front gable ; and
adjoins the old building in West Bow known as Major
Weir's house, now converted into a vestry and other
offices in connection with the church.
Augustine Independent Church faces the E side of
EDINBURGH
George IV. Bridge, but rises from Merchant Street at
30 feet lower level. It superseded a previous church in
Argyle Square on ground now occupied by the Indus-
trial Museum, and was erected in 1859-61, after designs by
Hay, of Liverpool, at a cost of about £15,000. It includes
two stories below the level of George IV. Bridge, dis-
posed in congregational hall, school-rooms, and other
apartments ; is in the Byzantine style, with three
recessed arched doorways, and a surmounting circular
headed window 16 feet high ; and is surmounted, on
the front, with a tower and minaret of pagoda-like
appearance, rising to the height of 120 feet. — Albany
Street Independent chapel stands at the SE corner of
Albany Street and Broughton Street ; was built in
1816 at a cost of £4009, and improved in 1867 at a cost
of more than £2000 ; and presents an ornamental flank to
Albany Street and an end front in mixed Roman style,
with entrance doorway, to Broughton Street. — Cale-
donian Road or Dairy Independent chapel was built in
1S72, after designs by A. Heron, at a cost of more than
£3000, and is in the Gothic style, with a belfry spire
100 feet high. — Hope Park Independent chapel stands
at Hope Park Terrace ; was erected in 1875-76 at a cost
of about £4000 ; serves in lieu of Richmond Place chapel,
sold to the Pleasance Free church congregation ; is in the
Romanesque style ; and contains 650 sittings. — Rich-
mond Independent chapel is a plain building, formerly
used as a school ; stands in a recess ofi" East Preston
Street ; and is now almost shut out of view from the
street by a range of houses.
The Brighton Street Evangelical Union chapel blocks
the head of Brighton Street, off the N side of Lothian
Street ; was originally a Relief church ; and has a
Roman front of curved contour, with pilasters and
pediment. — Buccleuch Evangelical Union chapel stands
in West Crosscauseway, was erected in 1874 at a cost
of £2500, is a neat edifice with a Gothic front, and
contains 550 sittings. A similar building of the same
denomination is in Fountainbridge.
Dublin Street Baptist chapel was built in 1858, and
is a handsome Gothic edifice, with a double transept
and a spirelet. — Charlotte Street Baptist chapel, at the
corner of West Rose Street and Charlotte Street, was
originally Episcopalian ; went by sale to Baptists ; has
a neat Roman front ; and is notable for the ministry of
Christopher Anderson, the author of several well-
known works. — Duncan Street Baptist chapel is in
KeAvington ; was originally Baptist ; went by sale, in
1847, to the United Secession ; returned by re-sale, in
1863, to Baptists ; and is a plain, but pleasant edifice.
— Bristo Place Baptist chapel has a neat Roman front.
— Marshall Street Baptist chapel is a new and neat
building. — The Glassite chapel in Broughton is very
plain.
The Catholic Apostolic church stands at the N comer
of Broughton Street and East London Street, and was
mainly built in 1874-76 at a cost of about £17,000. It
is in the later Norman style, after designs by M. Ander-
son ; measures 200 feet in length, 45 in height to the
wall head, 64 to the apex of the roof vault ; comprises
a nave 100 feet long and 45 wide, a chancel 61^
feet long and 23 wide, an apse terminating the
chancel and containing an altar, an Episcopal throne
and clerical stalls, and a circular baptistry 28 feet in
diameter ; and has a W end tower measuring 35 feet on
each side, a grand entrance porch through the base of
that tower, an arcaded passage from the S side of the
entrance porch to the baptistry, three arched openings
in the division-line between the nave and the cnancel,
and four massive, square, spired turrets at the corners
of the nave.
The Wesleyan Methodist chapel stands at the SW
corner of Nicolson Square ; has a handsome Roman
front, with basement arcade and crowning balustrade ;
and was interiorly redecorated in 1872. — The Primitive
.Methodist chapel stands in Victoria Terrace ; was built
in 1866, after designs by Paterson k Shiells, at a cost of
about £1300; and is in simple Italian Gothic style, with
a canopied bell-turret.— A Methodist chapel is also at
521
EDINBURGH
Stock bridge. — The Unitarian chapel stands in Castle
Terrace, was built in 1835, and has a Roman Corin-
thian front, a fine interior, and a good organ.
St Mary's Roman Catholic church or Pro-Cathedral
is at the head of Broughton Street, on the ascent
toward St James Place ; was erected in 1813, after
designs by Gillespie Graham, at a cost of £8000 ; shows
a handsome Gothic front with pinnacles 70 feet high ;
measures exteriorly 110 feet by 57 ; and has a fine
organ and a splendid altar-piece. — St Patrick's Roman
Catholic church is at the E end of Cowgate ; was built
in 1771-74 at a cost of £7000 ; belonged originally
to Episcopalians, and was long occupied by Presby-
terians ; is a large oblong edifice in the Italian style, Avith
a bell tower ; and contains wall paintings by Runciman.
— The original St Patrick's Roman Catholic church
stands at the corner of Lothian Street and Bristo Place ;
was built in 1839, and occupied as a church till about
1856, being then transmuted into St Mary's Roman
Catholic school ; and has a handsome pinnacled Gothic
front. — The Roman Catholic church of the Sacred
Heart in Lauriston Street was built in 1859-60, and has
an Italian front and cupola lights. — St Margaret's Roman
Catholic convent, already referred to, has attached to
it an elegant chapel in the Saxon style, after designs by
A. W. Pugin. — St Catherine's Roman Catholic convent
stands in Lauriston Gardens, adjacent to Chalmers'
Hospital ; was built in 1861 ; and is in the Collegiate
style.
Blackfriars' Monastery stood on or near the site of the
old High School, having gardens extending to Cowgate,
Pleasance, and Potterrow. It was founded in 1230 by
Alexander II., and became so frequent a residence of
its founder, as to be called the King's Mansion. It
had a large cruciform church, with central tower and
lofty spire, which suffered partial destruction by fire
in 1558, and total demolition at the hands of the
Reformers of 1558, the lands belonging to it being
given by the Crown to build and endow Trinity Hospital.
— Greyfriars' Monastery has already been incidentally
noticed in our account of Greyfriars' churches. — The
Carmelite Monastery stood at the NE base of Calton
Hill, was erected in 1526, and disappeared at the
Reformation. — St Anthony's Chapel and Hermitage
stood on a precipitous knoll, near the base of the
N side of Arthur's Seat; were founded in 1435 by Sir
Robert Logan of Restalrig ; and belonged to a preceptory
of St Anthony at Leith. The chapel stood 9 yards dis-
tant from the hermitage ; was a Gothic edifice 43 feet
long, 18 broad, and 18 Mgh, with a square tower fully
broader than itself and about 40 feet high ; and con-
tinued to stand, in a roofless state, till about the middle
of last centurj'. The hermitage was 16 feet long, 12
broad, and 8 high ; and a fragment of it, with plain
corbels, and a piece of groined roof, still exists. A clear
cool spring, called St Anthony's Well, celebrated in the
old song, 0 waly, waly up yon bank, is at the foot of
the rock on which the fragment stands. A number of
other ancient ecclesiastical edifices, chiefly small chapels,
stood in various parts of the city and the suburbs, but
either were not of any note or have already been in-
cidentally noticed.
Cemeteries. — The first great cemetery of Edinburgh
has already been incidentally noticed in our account of
Parliament Square, and lay around St Giles' Church
extending down the slope toward Cowgate. It re-
ceived the remains of John Knox in 1572 ; became
completely secularised before 1607 ; was then, or soon
afterwards, entirely effaced ; and yielded up its best
known relic in 1800, in the form of a curiously sculp-
tured stone, found at the head of Forrester's Wynd,
supposed to have been part of a decorated gateway at
the cemetery's western boundary, and showing a group
of figures similar to those in Holbein's Dance of Death.
— Greyfriars' Cemetery has already been mentioned in
our account of Greyfriars' churches, and succeeded St
Giles' as the chief burial-place for the city. It became,
and long continued, so overcrowded as to give cause for
alarm ; but it was subsequently relieved from pressure,
522
EDINBURGH
and adorned with walks and shrubbery. It commands
picturesque views of the S face of the Old Town and
the Castle rock ; exhibits a striking mixture of monu-
ments, curious and beautiful, old and recent ; and has,
on its enclosure walls, a number of richly sculptured
monumental stones, chiefly of the 16th and the 17th
centuries. A spot at its E wall, where lie the remains
of most of the martjTS of the Covenant who were
executed in the Grassmarket, imparts a great interest
to this churchyard. Here are also the remains of Regent
Morton, George Buchanan, George Heriot, Alexander
Henderson, Sir George Mackenzie, Sir James Stewart,
Principal Carstares, Principal Robertson, Dr Pitcairn,
Sir John de Medina, Allan Ramsay, Colin Maclaurin,
Dr Joseph Black, Dr Hugh Blair, Dr M'Crie, Lord
President Forbes, Lord President Blair, the two Pro-
fessors Munro, Dr Carson, Patrick Eraser Tytler, and
many other distinguished men. (See Epitaphs and
Monumental Inscriptions in Greyfriars' Cliurcliyard,
collected by J. Brown, Edinb. 1867.)
St Cuthbert's and Canongate Cemeteries have been
already noticed. Several other ancient cemeteries lay
within or near the city, but were neither large nor
notable, and are now mostly extinct.
High Calton Cemetery is comparativelj' modern. It
was broken in upon at the formation of Waterloo Place,
from which it is now fenced by a lofty retaining wall,
adorned M-ith projections, niches, pillars, and cornice.
It is reached by a flight of steps commencing at a
doorway in the retaining wall ; surmounts on its S side
a lofty cliff overhanging North Back of Canongate ;
is flanked on the two other sides by the old Post
Office and the Prison ; and contains the mausoleum
of David Hume, the metaphj'sician and historian, the
political mai'tjTs' monument, and that of David Allan,
the Scottish painter. — Low Calton Cemetery occupies
part of the slope between Regent Road and North Back
of Canongate, was formed by removal of the tombs
of High Calton Cemetery, and has many monumental
tombstones of good design. — Buccleuch Cemetery lies
round Buccleuch Established church, is small and
obscure, and contains the remains of the blind poet,
Dr Blacklock, and the classical scholar, Dr Adam. —
Warriston or Edinburgh Cemetery is on a southward
slope on the N side of the Water of Leith, 600 yards N
by E of Canonmills, and was formed, about 1844, in the
manner of an ultra-mural ground. It is all laid out
with much taste ; has broad winding walks, parten'es,
and shrubberies ; and commands, from some of its
walks, one of the finest of the northern views of the
city and its environs. It is entered by two approaches,
the one from Canonmills by a bridge, the other from
Inverleith by a road deflecting near the Botanic Garden.
It contains an ornate range of catacombs, a handsome
Gothic chapel for Episcopalian burial service, a number
of beautiful monuments, and the remains, among others,
of the poet Alexander Smith, the distinguished physician
Sir James Y. Simpson, and other eminent persons. —
Grange Cemetery lies in Grange suburb, and was formed
subse({uently to Warriston Cemetery. It is large and
ornamental, and contains the remains of the Rev. Dr
Chalmers, Sheriff Spiers, Sir Andrew Agnew, Sir Thomas
Dick Lauder, the second Lord Dunfermline, Hugh Miller,
Rev. Dr Robert Lee, Dr Guthrie, Dr Duff, Dr John Brown,
and many other distinguished persons. — Dean Ceme-
tery, a most i)icturesque and beautiful place, is noticed
in the paragraph on Dean. — Rosebank Cemetery lies on
the W side of the N end of Pilrig Street, is modern and
ornate, and contains, among many interesting monu-
ments, a tombstone erected by Queen Victoria to the
memory of an attached servant who died in 1854. —
Dairy Cemetery lies in the western outskirts, and is of
similar date and character to Rosebank Cemetery. —
Echo Bank Cemetery, in the Newington district, is well
laid out, and has a railed-off portion set apart as the
Jews' place of burial. — Morningside Cemetery lies in the
valley between the southward slope of Morningside and
the rising slopes of Braid Hills, beautifully situated and
ornately laid out.
EDINBURGH
Infirmary and otlier Institutions. — The Royal Infirmary
•was first contemplated in 1725, instituted on a small scale
in 1729, incorporated by royal charter in 1736, and
provided with suitable buildings in 1738. It maintained
for a time a serious struggle with various difliculties,
but rose eventually to such eminence as to become a
national institution and a school of medicine ; admitted
to its wards at length a yearly average of more than 3000
patients ; and aftbrded courses of lectures and demonstra-
tions to medical students. It long held property worth
about £26,000, exclusive of buildings which did not yield
any revenue, and also had a very large income from
voluntary contributions. The principal building of the
old Infirmary was on the S side of Infirmary Street, ofi" the
E side of South Bridge, presenting a rear to Drummond
Street, and was erected in 1738. It formed three sides
of a quadrangle, 210 feet long and 94 wide, plain, and
four stories high in parts of the main building and in
the entire sides ; showing in the centre front a rusti-
cated basement, a surmounting attached Ionic portico,
a crowning attic terminating in a glazed turret, and, in
a niche above the entrance, a statue of Geoi'ge II. in
Roman costume. The arrangement generally was that
of separate wards for male and famale patients, and it
contained about 400 beds. Other extensive buildings,
serving variously as fever, lock, and surgical hospitals —
one of them the old High School, another the old hall
of the College of Surgeons, and a third a neat structure
of 1855 — were in a large area extending from the prin-
cipal building eastward to the back of Pleasance, and
separated from Drummond Street by the old city wall,
cut down to half its original height and topped with an
iron-railing. These buUdings are all now, since the
opening of the new ones, in Oct. 1880, in disuse for
Infirmary purposes, with only the exception of a portion
retained as a fever hospital by the city authorities, and
refitted for this purpose at a cost of about £3000. The
new buildings stand on and around the site of George
"Watson's Hospital, and are only separated from the new
medical schools of the University by the fine avenue
leading to the Meadows, which the Infirmary closely
adjoins, thus enjoying the great requisites of fresh air
and the vicinity of excellent pleasure-grounds. These
buildings, the foundation-stone of which was laid with
great public and masonic ceremonial by the Prince of
Wales in the latter part of 1870, were erected partly
from the Infirmary's own funds and partly from a very
munificent special public subscription ; and they occupy
ground purchased from the governors of George Watson's
Hospital for £43,000 ; and are in a modified variety of
the old Scottish style of architecture, after designs by
Mr Bryce. They present a main frontage to Lauriston
fully 100 feet long, four stories high, surmounted by a
massive square tower with round coi'belled turrets at the
comers, and very similar to Holyrood Palace in appear-
ance ; and include ranges of pavilions connected with
the main building by corridors, and in similar architec-
tui'e to the main frontage, also a separate pathological
house and laundry house, and are all arranged and fitted
on the most approved methods for ventilation and
management. During 1881 there were 5288 patients
admitted, of whom 2801 were dismissed cured, and 1651
relieved. Of the cases brought to a close during the
year, 480 were cases of infectious disease, 2113 ordinary
medical cases, and 2659 surgical cases. The daily aver-
age of patients during the year was 520. There was a
staff of 65 nurses and 36 probationers, and the income
for 1881 was £28,474, 17s. lid. ; the expenditure (in-
cluding fever hospital), £31,720, 16s. 8d. — The Con-
valescent Home of the Royal Infirmary for males was
formerly in Sciennes House, Grange, that for females
in Preston Street ; but a number of years ago both
were conjoined, and a large airy villa-liko residence
erected for the purpose on a slope at Corstorphine Hill,
■with large garden, and every necessary requisite for a
home of the kind. During 1881 considerable improve-
ments were efl"ected in the internal arrangements, which
occasioned an increase in the extraordinary expenditure
of the establishment, while the ordinary expenses re-
EDINEURGH
mained the same. The number of patients during the
same year was 704, being 118 less than the preceding
year — the average period of residence being 22 days. —
Ravenscroft Convalescent Home for poor people, invalids
from disease, belonging to Edinburgh and its neiglibour-
hood, has its quarters at Gilmerton. — The Royal In-
firmary Samaritan Society, for assisting the families of
Infirmary patients, for giving clothing and other need-
ful assistance to patients on leaving the Infirmary,
procuring work for, and generally befriending and aiding
them as far as possible, has a room for carrying on its
work in the Infirmary itself. The number of patients
who received pecuniary or other aid during 1881 for
themselves or their families was 178. The receipts in
1881, including a balance of £216, 16s. 6d. from pre-
ceding year, was £525, 17s. 3d., and the expenditure
£304, 7s. lid., leaving a balance in favour- of the
society of £221, 9s. 4d. — The Incurables Longmore
Hospital occupies ground in Salisbury Place, Newing-
ton. Soon after the foundation of the hospital at
8 Salisbury Place in 1874, the association found their
accommodation insufficient for carrying on the work,
and setting themselves to remedy this, were enabled,
shortly after, through the liberality of the trustees of
the late Mr Longmore, in voting a grant of £10,000 for
the purpose, to purchase the adjoining property. Tem-
porary accommodation was found at Fisherrow for the
inmates till the new hospital was built, and opened on
3 Dec. 1880. The new building has a frontage of 160
feet, and consists of a centre block and two wings three
stories in height. It is treated in the classic style, and
having a large number of windows — no fewer than 48
in the frontage — possesses a light and cheerful appear-
ance. The windows on the second floor of the central
part are treated with pilasters and projecting balconies,
those above being plain. The entrance is through a porch
in keeping with the rest of the fagade, and at the top of
the building over the entrance is a pediment containing
a large panel with the inscription, ' The Association for
Incurables, Longmore Hospital.' There is a considerable
piece of ground at the back suitably laid out. The cost
of the site was £4000, and the outlay in erection about
£10,000. There is accommodation for 44 patients,
besides apartments for matron, nurses, etc. , and also for
cases requiring special treatment. — The Royal Hospital
for Sick Children was commenced in 1860 in a small
house in Lauriston Lane, acquired afterwards for itself
a separate building in the same locality with fine
frontage and lawn bordering the West Meadows, and
was enlarged in 1871 by the addition of two fever
wards. During 1881 it admitted into the wards 528
children, and treated in the dispensary attached 6052,
making a total of 6580. Since its establishment in
1860 the number of patients has year bv year increased,
and altogether up to the end of 1881, 106,333 sick
children had received treatment in the hospital. For
1881 the income was £1839, 2s. 5d., while the expendi-
ture was £2568, 5s. 3|d. The expenditure over income
in 1881 had arisen mainly from placing the whole
sanitary arrangements of the hospital in a more efficient
state. — Chalmers' Hospital for the Sick and Hurt stands
in Lauriston, opposite the Cattle ilarket, and sprang
from a bequest by George Chalmers, a plumber in Edin-
burgh, of about £30,000, left at his death in 1836, and
allowed to accumulate till 1861. The hospital was
erected in 1861-63, is an oblon^j edifice of comparatively
plain but pleasing aspect, and is under the management
of the dean and faculty of advocates. In ISSl the
number of patients treated in non-paj-ing wards was
226, those in other wards, 60— in all, 286. The num-
ber treated in the waiting-room and surgery as out-door
patients, 2620. Expenditure for the year, £1549, 7s. 3d. ;
income, £1631, 8s. 6d.— A Home for Cripple Children
under the age of 12, suffering from spinal affection and
hip-joint disease, is at 20 North Mansionhouse Road,
Grange.— An Hospital for the Diseases of Women was
proposed in 1870 to be erected in Edinburgh, as a
memorial of Sir James Y. Simpson, to be arranged in
accordance with the latest expressed views of that great
523
EDINBURGH
EDINBURGH
professor :— to afford both suitable relief to suffering
women, and instruction to medical students in wonien's
diseases ; and to be available for patients from distant
places, e\'en as far as London and Dubliu. This pro-
posal was carried into effect and brought into conjunc-
tion with the Maternity Hospital, instituted in 1843 ;
has a fine building at West Lauriston Place ; and is
known at the Royal Maternitj' and Simpson Jlemorial
Hospital. — The Lying-in Institution, established in
1824, is at 46 Cockburn Street ; it provides for deliver-
ing poor mai'ried women at their own houses, and has
attached to it a wardrobe department managed by a
committee of ladies. — The Society for relief of poor
married women of respectable character when in child-
bed is managed by ladies, and has a wardrobe-keeper at
20 Dublin Street. — The Royal Dispensary and Vaccine
Institution is in West Richmond Street ; was established
in 1776 ; became, toward 1872, utterly insufficient for
its objects, so as then to require some extension of the
building ; and during 1881 ministered to 8643 persons,
1190 of these being attended at their own homes. The
New Town Dispensary is in Thistle Street, and was in-
stituted in 1815 ; the Throat Dispensary is also here. —
A northern district dispensary is in Dean Sti'eet, Stock-
bridge, at which, in 1881, 1300 persons were attended
by the medical officers, 400 were visited in their own
homes, 1500 free prescriptions were given, and 130
children vaccinated. — The Eye Infirmary is at 6 Cam-
bridge Street, and was instituted in 1834. — The Eye
Dispensary is at 54 Cockburn Street, and was instituted
in 1822. — The Ear Dispensary is in Cambridge Street,
and was instituted in 1857. — The Dental Dispensary is
conjoined with the Dental College at 32 Chambers
Street. — The Edinburgh Provident Dispensarj", esta-
blished in 1878, is in Marshall Street. — The Scottish
Nursing Institution, established in 1872, has it home at
44 Castle Street, and the training institution for sick
nurses at 125 Princes Street. — A lepers' hospital was
erected, after the Reformation, on the site of the
Carmelite Monastery, at the NE base of Calton Hill,
and was under regulations which indicate both the
frequent prevalence of leprosy at the time, and the great
dread in which the distemper was held, but it has ceased
to be required, and has disappeared.
The Royal Lunatic Asylum stands within a high wall
enclosure at the foot of the W side of Morningside ; is
partly a large edifice of 1810-13, partly an extensive
addition of about 1850, jointly costing upwards of
£80,000; and has all the most approved arrangements
for the treatment of the insane, with fine contiguous
garden-grounds. — The Midlothian and Peeblesshire dis-
trict Lunatic Asylum is also at Morningside, and con-
sists of a main building two stories in height, with
central block and two wings, presenting a frontage of
about 370 feet. Parallel vdih this building is another
block of 140 feet in length, connected with the first by
a one-story range. Accommodation is provided for
about 250 patients. The architectural features are
Italian, and the buildings cost about £20,000.
Eefuge Asylums. — Trinity Hospital was founded, in
connection with Trinity College Church, by Mary of
Gueldres, consort of James II., being originally an
edifice on the W side of Leith Wynd, which became
ruinous about the time of the Reformation, and was
afterwards the residence of the provost and prebend-
aries of Trinity College Church. Refitted for new use,
it formed two sides of a parallelogram two stories
high, and presented interesting features of monastic
architecture, but was all swept away in 1845 by clear-
ances for the terminus of the North British Railway.
It maintained 42 inmates, either burgesses of Edinburgh
or the wives or unmarried children not under fifty
years of age ; and gave to the inmates, at the de-
molition of the premises, pensions of £26 a year each.
A new scheme for Trinity Hospital was drawn up by
the Court of Session in Feb. 1880, and the number of
pensioners, of whom one-eighth are incurables, was fixed
at 60 on the higher pension of £25 a year, 22 of these
being appointed by private patrons ; on a lower pen-
524
sion of £15, the number was fixed at 100. — An hospital,
called the Hospital of our Lady, for the support of
12 poor men, stood in Leith Wynd, and was founded in
1479 by Thomas Spence, Bishop of Aberdeen. It passed,
at the Reformation, into the possession of the to\\Ti
council, receiving then, in some unaccountable way,
the name of Paul's Work, after which it was converted
first into a workhouse, next into a house of correc-
tion, and next into a broadcloth factory, bequeathing
its name of Paul's Work to a court and cluster of
buildings on and around its site. — The House of Refuge
and Night Refuge, or temporary pauper home of house-
less wanderers and night asylum for the destitute, is
Queensberry House, a large building in Canongate
already noticed, managed by a committee, drawing its
income from voluntary contributions, an allowance by
the town council, payments by friends of inmates,
and the proceeds of work done within it. According
to its last biennial report (Jan. 1882), it had relieved
and sheltered, during the two preceding j'cars, over
23,000 persons, besides giving breakfast and dinner to
numbers of poor children. — The Night Asylum and
Stranger's Friendly Society has its premises in Old
Fishmarket Close, off High Street. — Four sets of im-
proved lodging-houses belonging to an association for
giving lodgers good accommodation and appliances for
health and comfort at low charges, are in Cowgate, West
Port, Merchant Street, and Mound Place respectively
— the first for 80 lodgers, the second for 58, the third
for 48 married persons and females, and the fourth, for
females only, accommodates 30 lodgers. — Queensberry
Lodge, for the treatment of ladies addicted to intemper-
ance, stands within the grounds of Queensbeny House,
adjacent to South Back Canongate. It is a neat building
in the Scottish Baronial style, erected in 1860 ; and,
dui'ing the first four years after its opening, admitted
as boarders 91 ladies from all parts of the kingdom ; and
its estimation has risen so much since then that the daily
average of boarders has increased from about 7 to nearly
20. — A training home for friendless girls of good
character is in Lauriston Lane ; a girl's house of refuge
or western reformatory is near Dahy ; and an institu-
tion for the reformation of juvenile female delinquents is
at Dean Bank. — The Magdalene Asylum, instituted in
1797, is at Dairy; an industrial home for fallen women
is at Alnwick Hill, near Liberton ; and the rescue and
probationary home for fallen women, instituted in 1861,
is at St John's Hill. — An institution for the relief of
incurables was founded by the late Mrs Elizabeth Keir
in 1805.
JForJcJwuses. — The old workhouse for the city parishes,
built partly in 1743, and partly about a century later,
stood on the W side of Forrest Road, close to the grounds
of Heriot's Hospital. It then comprised a liuge barrack-
looking mass four stories high, and some separate struc-
tures, with accommodation originally for 450 inmates,
together with a children's hospital ; afterwards increas-
ing its accommodation first for 691, and then for 909
altogether ; but these buildings were sold in Dec. 1870
and March 1871 for £23,000. — The new workhouse
stands at Craiglockhart, about 3 miles SW from the
centre of the city, and was erected in 1867-70 at a cost
of about £50,000. It is in the Scottish Baronial style
with a corbelled octagonal tower 105 feet high at the
centre of the main workhouse, and contains a dining-
hall 74 feet by 48, and a kitchen 30 feet square and 19
feet high. It comprises three distinct groups of build-
ings— the main workhouse in the centre, the infirmary
to the E, and the lunatic asylum to the W ; has accom-
modation for about 800 inmates in the main workhouse ;
and there is a detached villa for the governor. — The
tovnx offices stand on the W side of Bristo Place, oc-
cupying part of the site of the old Darien House, and
were erected partly in 1844, and the rest of them in
1871-72, and are neat and commodious. The return of
poor for Jan. 1882 showed that the number of paupers
on the out-door roll was 741, as against 772 in Jan.
1881, while the number of inmates in the jioorhouse
was 695 as compared with 766 at the same time in 1881.
EDINBURGH
— St Cuthbert's Poorhouse formerly stood in St Cuth-
bert's Lane, a short distance W of St Cuthbert's Churcli,
and was a dingy group of buildings. They were re-
moved in 1866, along with St George's Free Church and
other buildings, to give place to the new station of the
Caledonian Railway. — That of Canongate occupied a
series of old buildings in Tolbooth Wynd, overlooking
the churchyard lying round the parish church, and were
in many respects altogether unfitted for their purpose. —
The Combination Poorhouse for St Cuthbert's and
Canongate stands in an airy situation near Craigleith,
in the western part of St Cuthbert's parish. It was
erected at a cost of about £40,000, a considerable portion
of which sum accrued from the sale of the old buildings,
and is a most imposing edifice, thought by some to be
unduly attractive to paupers. It has considerably more
accommodation than the old poorhouse ; yet, even with
this additional room, it was found inadequate to meet
the requirements, so that additional wings, four stories in
height at either end, and in unison with the original
design, were added in 1880. This extension cost about
£10,000, and gave room for 192 more inmates. From
the inspector's report for the half-year ending Nov.
1881 it appeared that the number of poor on the out-
door roll, exclusive of lunatics, was 12-38, being an in-
crease of 12 compared with the number at the same date
of the previous year. The average number of inmates in
the poorhouse and dependants for the year was 641.
Market Structures. — The chief public flesh market is
situated on the northern slopes of the Old Town, close
by the Xorth Bridge ; it comprises a series of terraces,
and is partitioned into departments, well-arranged and
tidy. Smaller flesh markets were formerly at West
Nicolson Street, Dublin Street, and Stockbridge, but
are now as such almost wholly disused. Large quanti-
ties of fish are brought from the coast, chiefly from
Newhaven and Fisherrow, and sold in a fresh state
variously in markets, shops, and on the streets. A
great weekly market of country produce in quantity,
connectedly with the sample sales of grain in the Corn
Exchange, is held every Wednesday in the spacious
area of Grassmarket. The cattle market is a commo-
dious enclosure, in the triangular space between West
Port, Lady Lawson's Street, and Lauriston Place ; and
is open every Wednesday from an early hour for sales,
which commonly amounts to about 800 or 900 head of
cattle and about 2000 head of sheep. The old Green
Market, for vegetables and fruit, lay in the bottom of
the valley to the E of the chief flesh market, and was
transferred in 1869 to the North British Railway Com-
pany, for extension of their station. The present vege-
table market adjoins Princes Street, opposite St Andrew
Street. It occupies the northern part of the site of what
was the terminus of the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee
Railway, now amalgamated with the North British, and
was constructed by the railway company in lieu of the
old market. It rests on a series of archwaj's, so high as
to furnish storage places below, and so strong as to bear
any great public building which might be erected on
them ; is fenced from Princes Street by a neat iron rail-
ing, though it presented for a time so plain an appear-
ance as to be somewhat of an eyesore amid the many fine
public buUdings in its neighbourhood. Of recent years
this has been greatly amended, and a platform roof was
made, resting on a system of iron beams and main
girders, crossing the open space in two spans, supported
in the centre by a range of iron columns. The platform
roof has a series of wells or deep depressions, with glass
on sides and top to afford light to the market below ; is
furnished along the edges with a low parapet and railing,
ha\'ing at intervals pedestals carrying flower vases ; pre-
sents to the W a semicircular two-story facade, close
beneath which is an aquarium ; and to the S, in full
view from North Bridge, a similar facade to that on the
W ; whilst the greater portion of the roof is laid out in
walks and flower parterres, presenting quite an attractive
appearance, and known by the name of the Waverley
Garden.
Slaughter Houses. — These are so intimately connected
EDINBURGH
with markets, that they may be fitly noticed here. The
old shambles stood under the North Bridge, beside the
chief flesh market, and were a horrible nuisance. The
new slaughter houses are situated on the grounds of Loch-
rin, between Fountainbridge and Lochrin Distillery, at
the south-western extremity of the city ; they were opened
in 1852, and occupy an area of nearly 4 acres. They
are entered through a massive Egyptian facade at Foun-
tainbridge, with emblematic figures and stone caryatides
of cattle, supporting arches and serving as corbels ; and
are interiorly fitted with every convenience, comprising
ranges of shambles, which are let out to the butchers of
the city.
Water Works.— k\\ the supply of water for the city
was, in 1875, brought from springs and rills on the
northern slopes of the Pentlands, within the rivers-
sj^stems of the North Esk and the Water of Leith ; and
the works, which afforded supplies also to Leith and
Portobello, comprised erections for damming the rills,
appliances for filtering the water, trunk-pipes for bring-
ing it to Edinburgh, a reservoir on Castle Hill for re-
ceiving it, and pipes for distributing it through the city.
It was in 1621 that the magistrates obtained parlia-
mentary authority to cast 'seuchs and ditches,' in the
lands between the city and the Pentlands, for bringing
water, but they were not able for half a century to
execute any of the works ; about which time they en-
gaged a German plumber, in 1674, for £2950, to lay
down a leaden pipe, of 3 inches in diameter, from Comis
ton to a reserv'oir on Castle Hill. At length, in 1722,
a new pipe, of 4^ inches in diameter, was laid from
the same quarter, with supply from additional springs ;
and subsequently new parliamentary authority was ob-
tained for extending the works, and a cast-iron pipe, of 5
inches in diameter, was laid in 1787 from Comiston, and
another of 7 inches in diameter, in 1790, from springs
on the lands of Swanston. These works were executed
out of the city funds, at a cost of £20,000 ; but, owing
to increase of population, they failed to furnish a suffi-
cient supply, and could not be further extended except
on some basis of compulsory assessment. A water com-
pany, with the town council holding shares in it as
representatives of the citizens, was accordingly formed
in 1810, and incorporated in 1819, with a capital of
£135,000. The Company obtained new powers in 1826,
with a further capital of £118,000, and opened a new
gi'and source of supply at the Crawley springs, nearly 9
miles from the city. A cistern was formed at these
springs, 6 feet deep, 15 wide, and 45 long, with retaining
walls and an arched roof ; a large artificial pond being
also formed to provide compensatory supply to mills on
the North Esk. A cast-iron pipe, of from 15 to 20 inches
in diameter, was laid from the cistern along the vale of
Glencorse, through a tunnel of about a mile in length,
thence by Straiton, Burdiehouse, and Liberton Dams to
the N side of the Meadows, next through a tunnel 2160
feet in length under the surface of Heriot's Green, then
across Grassmarket, sending off there branch pipes to
reservoirs near Heriot's Hospital and on Castle Hill,
and proceeding by a tunnel 740 feet long through the
rock of Castle Hill, and 120 feet beneath the reservoir
there, to Princes Street. Pipes, which ramified from
these reservoirs, were laid through all the principal
streets ; and, previous to being laid, were tested by a
pressure equal to a vertical column of 800 feet of water.
The new works cost nearly £200,000, and raised the
total supply of water to the rate of about 298 cubic feet
per minute ; yet, from increase of population and great
scarcity in times of drought, even these works were not
enough. The Company, therefore, obtained new powers
in 1843 and at subsequent dates ; and from time to time
made repairs and improvements on their previous works,
constructing extensive new ones, wliich drew large sup-
plies from tlie Black, the Listonshiels, and the Bavelaw
springs, situated respectively 9, 10, and 12* miles from
Edinburgh. The supiJies from the Listcmshiells and
the Bavelaw springs, about forty in number, which be-
came available in 1847, are coiiveyed, in clay pipes,
into a stone cistern at Westrigg, about 12 miles from
525
EDINBURGH
EDINBURGH
the city ; thence through an aqi'.educt nearly 5 miles
long to Torphin Hill, and afterwards by an iron pipe of
16 inches internal diameter to the cit}'^. The reservoirs
then at Crawley, Loganlea, Clubbiedean, Bonally, and
Torduff had collectively a storage capacity of 112,962,267
cubic feet, and were capable of affording a supply of 3500
cubic feet of water per minute for a period of four months
without rain. The Company, in 1863. though they ex-
pended altogether on their works £485,937, and were
able to give, or professed themselves able to give, a daily
supply of water to the amount of 31 '12 gallons for each
inhabitant, obtained powers to raise £46,000 for the pur-
chase of new gathering grounds and the construction of
new works ; and expected to be able, after the completion
of the new works, to furnish a daily supply amounting
to 39 gallons for each inhabitant. Dissatisfaction, how-
ever, arose among a large section of the community ;
doubts were entertained as to the sufficiency of the
works ; complaints were made regarding great and fre-
quent scarcity in some districts of the city ; and this
eventually led to measures which terminated in the
transference of the works, by compulsory sale, to the
town council in 1869. The water trustees appointed by
the towni council speedily concocted a gigantic scheme
for bringing a new supply from St Mary's Loch in Sel-
kirkshire, variously estimated to cost about £500,000
and upwards ; spent considerable sums in preparatory
measures for that scheme, and in seeking autliority for
it from parliament ; came eventually into collision with
the opinions of a large proportion of the ratepa3'ers ;
and, in 1871, though they carried their scheme through
the House of Commons, were defeated on it in the House
of Lords, mainly on the ground that the evidence adduced
by their opponents tended to prove that a sufficient
supply was obtainable from the gathering-grounds in the
Pentlands. The gentlemen who succeeded to the trustee-
ship in November 1871 mostly held views antagonistic
to the St Mary's Loch scheme, and they directed their
attention to the improvement of the existing works and
to further survey of the Pentland gathering-grounds,
but held themselves open to consider any scheme for
new works which might be desired or approved by the
general body of the ratepayers. An act was obtained in
1874 to construct works for bringing an additional sup-
ply from parts of the Moorfoot Hills M-ithin the basin of
the South Esk ; and another act was applied for, in the
winter of 1875, to grant power for the construction of
additional works within the basin of the North Esk,
and making of arrangements for furnishing supplies to
Lasswade, Dalkeith, and Musselburgh. The water is of
excellent quality ; and, with exception of some densely
peopled and poor districts where defective distribution
has been more or less due to the bad fittings in the
houses, it has generally been supplied so regularly and
plentifully as to contribute grcntly to the comfort and
health of the population. The average supply is
12,897,000 gallons per day, equal to 41-54 gallons per
head to a population of 310,400. The total quantity of
water stored in the reservoirs is nearly 2,061,726,000
gallons. Of the 12,897,000 gallons supplied, 4,473,000
are from Listonshiels and Bavelaw, 7,080,000 from Aln-
wickhill, 810,000 from Torduff, and 534,000 from Swans-
ton and Comiston. The 7,080,000 gallons from Aln-
wickhill were made up as follow : — 2,700,000 were from
Glencorse, 3,048,000 from Gladhouse, 800,000 from
Portmore, and 532,000 from Tweeddalc Burn.
The reservoir on Castle Hill stands at the head of the
W corner of liamsay Lane, near the NE verge of the
Castle esplanade, and was originally constructed about
the year 1674. It was a remarkably plain structure,
5 feet deep, 30 wide, and 40 long, with a capacity for
about 6000 cubic feet of water ; but, being too small
for the increasing wants of the city, it was demolished
in the autumn of 1849, to give place to a much larger
one. The present reservoir stands on the same site,
and is constructed with great strength, and has an orna-
mental appearance, rising exteriorly to the height of one
story. It measures interiorly 30 feet in de})th, 90 in
width, and 110 in length : has capacity for about
626
297,000 cubic feet of water; is fed by a pipe which
delivers 253 cubic feet per minute ; and sends oil" from
its bottom a series of pipes for distributing the water to
+he higher parts of the city. A large cistern, lor
furnishing an ample readj^ supply to the troops in
garrison, and affording ordinary supply to such houses
in Castle Hill, Lawnmarket, and the upper part of High
Street a sare situated at a greater altitude than the re-
servoir on Castle Hill, is in the shot-yard of the Castle,
and was constructed in 1850.
There are drinking fountains in various parts of the
city and the suburbs, which originated chiefly about 1859,
and are largely due to the beneficence of the late Miss
Catherine Siuclair. Thej" are nearly all of simple action,
sending a flow of water into a metal cup by pressure of
a valve -stud, some being of iron, some of polished
granite, and several fitted in a species of well-case, with
self-acting tap fixed to a wall front. A prominent one
is a neat triangular structure, erected in 1859 at the
expense of Miss Sinclair, on the thoroughfare at the
meeting-point of Princes Street, Lothian Road, Mait-
land Street, and Hope Street. Another prominent one
is a neat structure, erected in 1869 at the expense of
Mrs Nicol of Huntly Lodge, at the NE of Borouglimuir-
head entrance to Morningside ; and both of these, in
addition to drinking-cups for pedestrians, have water-
troughs for cattle, and surmounting ornamental lamps.
A large ornate public fountain, designed by Durenne of
Paris, stands on the middle walk of West Princes Street
Gardens, was presented to the city by Mr Ross of
Rockville, and cost him upwards of £2000. It arrived
at Edinburgh, in 122 pieces, in the autumn of 1869,
and cost about £450 from private donations or other
sources before it could be erected. It forms an interest-
ing feature in the landscape seen from the Mound ; and,
being visible from Princes Street, is an ornament also
to tliat great thoroughfare. Another highly ornate
public fountain is in Holyrood Palace-yard, already
noticed in the section on HoljTood.
Gas Works. — The Edinburgh Gas-Light Company
was formed in 1817, and incorporated in 1818, with a
capital of £100,000 in shares of £25. Their chief
premises stand between Canongate, New Street, North
Back of Canongate, and Canongate cemetery ; are very
extensive ; and have a principal chimney, erected in
1847, and rising to the height of 342 feet. The chimney
is a cylindrical brick column, springing from a square
stone pedestal measuring 30 feet each way ; it tapers
in diameter from 26 feet to 16 feet, is finished at the
top with belts and coping, and has an endless chain
inside, affording the means of ascent at any time to the
top. It stands so near the bottom of the hollow at the
southern base of Calton Hill as not to figure largely iu
most of the architectural groupings of the city ; but, as
seen from some vantage-grounds of the southern environs,
particularly about Liberton, it soars well aloft. A gaso-
meter adjacent to the principal works has a diameter of
lOli feet; seven other gasometers are in different situa-
tions; and about 100 miles of supply-pipes, from IJ
inch to 15 inches in diameter, are ramified through the
streets. — The Edinburgh and Leith Gas-Light Company
was formed in 1839 ; purchased gas-works in Lcith, be-
longing to a previous company; and laid pipes through
the streets to supply both Leith and Edinburgh from
the Leith works. — Extensive premises for making oil-gas
were erected in 1825 at Tanfield ; but, proving unsuc-
cessful, the buildings went by sale to the Edinburgh
Gas-Light Company, and were partly reserved, with four
gasometers, for supplying the northern parts of the city
from the Canongate works, and partly converted into a
large hall, used for the early meetings of the Free Church
Assembly, but now used entirely as warehouses.
Railway Works.— TYie Old Edinburgh and Dalkeith
Railway, now amalgamated with the North British,
commences at St Leonard's, near the boundary of the
Queen's Park, on the south-eastern verge of the city, and
passes through a sloping tunnel in the near neiglibour-
liood of the terminus. It was used for passenger traffic in
carriages drawn by horses for some time after locomotive
EDINBURGH
EDINBURGH
engines ran on other railways, got thence the popular
name of i;ne ' Innocent Railway,' and is now used only for
the convej-ance of coal. — The original terminus of the
Caledonian Railway was on the W side of Lothian Road,
about 350 yards S from the AV end of Princes Street, and
was designed to be a spacious ornamental edifice, but
became little more than a huge open shed. It ceased
to be used for passenger traffic about the beginning of
1870 ; underwent then extensive changes, converting
the whole of it into a goods station ; and presents now to
the street a long range of low stone front, partly orna-
mental, including a heavy goods store 65 feet long and
30 wide, and a grain store 290 feet long and about 30
wide, with ample room and every facility for all sorts
of goods traffic. The new terminus of the Caledonian
Railway is in the angle between Lothian Road and
Rutland Street, at the W end of Princes Street, and
occupies part of an extensive area, reaching to the old
terminus. It was purchased and cleared at enormous
cost, and fenced from Lothian Road by a lofty retaining
wall. Erected in 1869 at a cost of more than £10,000,
it presents a neat one-story elevation, 103 feet long
and 22 wide ; and is intended to give place to a mag-
nificent permanent structure, with an adjoining great
hotel. The railway line, from both the old terminus
and the new, passes beneath lofty houses at Tobago
Street and Gardner's Crescent, and has there a remark-
ably interesting short tunnel. Be}-ond this tunnel there
is a sub-station for the convenience of passengers in that
portion of the city. — Haymarket Station stands in the
angle between Corstorphine or Glasgow Road and Dairy
Road, and was the original terminus of the Edinburgh
and Glasgow Railway. It presents a neat two-story
Italian front to the thoroughfare leading on to Princes
Street; has ample yards and other spaces for the different
departments of traffic ; and serves now as the station of
the North British system for the W end of the city, and
as an extensive coal depot.
The ultimate terminus of the Edinburgh and Glasgow
Railway, the original terminus of the North British
Railway, and the terminus of the Edinburgh, Perth,
and Dundee Railway, were all situated in the Nor'
Loch valley, at the E side of Waverley Bridge. That
bridge was erected in connection with the termini, and
occupied the site of a previous raised roadway, called
the Little Mound. It was a substantial and somewhat
neat stone structure, comprising several arches, all span-
ning lines of railway ; rose to an elevation much below
that of the margins of the valley ; and had neat,
spacious, descending approaches from respectively the
reach of Princes Street, between St Andrew Street and
St David Street, and the point of southern thoroughfare
to which Cockburn Street was opened in 1861. The
three termini occupied much ground ; occasioned the
demolition of several old streets, the old Orphan
Hospital, Lady Glenorchy's Church, Trinity Hospital,
and Trinity College Chiirch ; and were so well fitted
into the valley, and so neatly constructed, as to present
an appearance partly ornamental and entirely pleasant.
The Edinburgh and Glasgow terminus, and that of the
North British, were conjoint, the former on the S, the
latter on the N, and extended E and W. The station-
house presented to the roadway of Waverley Bridge a
one-story elevation with elegant arcade -piazza, and con-
tained, on the level of the roadway, handsome booking-
offices, with compartments sustained by Corinthian pil-
lars. The carriage platform was on a level two stories
lower, reached by long, spacious, descending flights of
steps from the sides of the booking-offices, and covered,
in the manner of a crystal palace, with a roof of great
height, yet not so high as the level of Princes Street
roadway ; and offered egress both to pedestrians and to
vehicles, by roads comparatively steep, and somewhat
similar to many other ascending thoroughfares of the
city. The Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee terminus
stood between the other two and Princes Street, com-
municating with them, in goods traffic, by underground
rails, and separated from them, for passenger transit,
by only the breadth of a roadway.
The present North British terminus concentrates the
lines of all the three original termini, and occupies the
entire areas of the original North British and the Edin-
burgh and Glasgow termini, about half that of the
Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee terminus, the whole of
that of the old vegetable market, and other ground to
the E and S. Involving the entire reconstruction of the
Waverley Bridge, and material improvements on the
approaches, it consists partly of retained portions of the
orii;inal structures, but generally of entirely new works.
It was formed, in successive parts, throughout the years
1869-1873 ; is much more convenient and commodious
than the three termini which preceded it ; and was
planned with reference to any further extension which
subsequent increase of traffic might require. The new
Waverley Bridge was formed on a similar model to that of
the new Westminster Bridge in London, and rises to a
higher elevation, and less below the level of Princes Street,
than the previous bridge. It is also considerably wider
than that bridge was ; consists mainly of iron, with an
appearance somewhat plain and stiff; and rests on three
rows of iron pillars, supported by substantial stone piers.
The pedestrian approach from Princes Street is wider and
much more convenient than the old pedestrian approach
to the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee terminus ; de-
scends from the NE corner of new Waverley Market ; and
has also an entrance by flights of steps from North Bridge,
at the SE corner of the Post Office. The carriage access,
both from Princes Street and the Old Town, is a spacious
roadway in line with Waverley Bridge, which curves from
that line round the retaining wall of the new vegetable
market, and terminates in a large paved space in front
of the booking-offices. These offices, together -nith
M-aiting and other rooms, have the form of an oblong
square, and are two stories high, and flat-roofed. They
present a plain but neat elevation to the N, extend across
the terminus platform, and have a corridor from end to
end, affording easy access to any point of the platform.
The platform is of vast length, extending from a short
distance W of Waverley Bridge to the near vicinity of
Leith Wynd, and is considerably broader at the central
part, where the offices stand, than was the entire
previous platform of the original North British and
Edinburgh and Glasgow termini. It resembles the New-
castle-on-Tyne station in being one-sided ; has, along
its S side, four lines of rails for through traffic ; con-
tains, to the E and to the W of the booking-offices,
several ' docks ' for the local passenger traffic ; permits
twelve trains, without more than ordinary bustle or
confusion, simultaneously to take in or discharge pas-
sengers ; and is covered, throughout its entire extent,
by a glazed iron roof, 40 feet high, of similar construc-
tion to that of the Victoria Station in London. The
goods station lies to the S and E of the passenger plat-
form, a very large new shed having recently been erected
eastwards. The cost of the entire reconstruction of the
terminus was estimated to amount to about £90,000.
The westward line from the North British terminus
traverses the centre of the East and West Princes Street
Gardens, being conducted by a tunnel through the
Mound. It passes under neat, light foot-bridges, within
West Princes Street Gardens ; almost hugs the skirts
of the romantic cliffs of the Castle ; and then plunges
into a tunnel, running about 3000 feet under the streets
of the western New Town, and emerging at Haymarket
Station. The northward line of the Edinburgh, Perth,
and Dundee Railway formerly passed immediately from
the terminus into a tunnel "at a decorated arch-work
beneath the brow of Princes Street ; descended that
tunnel, on a rapidly inclined plane beneath the whole
breadth of the New Town, to the foot of Scotland Street ;
and was worked along that inclined plane by means of
a stationary engine at the terminus, and an endless
cable. This tunnel was one of the most remarkable
pieces of engineering work in modem times, oidy a
little less wonderful than the tunnel beneath the Thames
at London, and was formed at great cost, and not with-
out considerable degrees of risk ; yet, subsequently to
the amalgamation of the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee
627
EDINBURGH
Railway with the North British, was entirely relin-
quished, and is now a mere useless curiosity. The east-
ward line, or line of the North British proper, traverses
the southern spur of Calton Hill in a tunnel right
below Burns's Monument ; curves thence, above the
level of the surrounding hollows, partly on embank-
ments and partly on arched viaducts, till it reaches the
railway engine and workshop depot at St Margaret's ;
and, at a point adjacent to Abbeyhill 450 yards E of
the end of the tunnel through the spur of Calton
Hill, sends off a branch, completed in 1869, to com-
municate with the N in lieu of the line down the
tunnel to Scotland Street. That branch passes under
the London Road, or rather imder a new, long, raised
roadway formed at great cost in lieu of the original
road ; curves rapidly from an east-north-easterly to a
•west-north-westerly direction ; goes under Leith Walk,
having there a depot and a station ; and passes thence
north-north-westward, to a considerable distance, into
junction -with the original line from Scotland Street.
A Suburban and Soutliside Junction Railway is in pro-
cess of construction (1882) in connection with the North
British, and branches off AV of Haymarket, passing
round by Dairy, Morningside, Powburn, Newington,
and thence onward to join with the main line near
Joppa Station.
The Tramwaijs. — A system of tramways for the prin-
cipal thoroughfares of "the city and its environs was
authorised in the early part of 1871, and now comprises
lines from the General Post Office to Leith, Newhaven,
and Trinity ; from the General Post Office to Haymarket
and Coltbridge; from Princes Street, by St Andrew
Street, York Place, and Picardy Place into junction
with the first line in Leith Walk; from the General
Post Office, along Waterloo Place, Regent Road, and
London Road to Portobello ; from the General Post
Office, along North Bridge, South Bridge, Nicolson
Street, and Clerk Street, to Newington and Powburn ;
from the W end of Princes Street, by Lothian Road
and Earl Grey Street, to Morningside, and thence east-
ward into junction with the Newington line at Minto
Street. An omnibus runs in connection with the tram-
way S3'stem from Post Office to Stockbridge. A new
extension of tramway lines goes by Gilraore Place to
Merchiston and other places westward, while another,
by way of Lauriston, Forrest Road, George IV. Bridge,
and High Street, connects the Merchiston district with
the heart of the town. For the last six months of 1881
the average number of horses employed was about 600,
with 60 cars and 3 omnibuses. The Portobello section
of the tramway system was long only a single line of
rails with passing curves for meeting cars, but in the
course of 1881 was made double the whole way. Par-
liamentary sanction has been given to the Company to
use mechanical traction power throughout their system,
subject, however, to sanction being given by the Board
of Trade and a two-thirds majority of the town council.
Miscellaneous Buildings. — Most of the numerous hotels
are large and beautiful. The Regent, in Waterloo Place,
is a splendid edifice, erected in 1819 at a cost of nearly
£30,000 ; the AVaverley, in the same street, occupies
the old Post Office ; the Edinburgh, in Princes Street,
is a very large and finely embellished edifice of 1864 ;
the Royal extends through three edifices, and has a
sumptuous interior; the Bedford is part of the gorgeous
edifice of the Life Association of Scotland ; the Claren-
don, in Princes Street, is the greater part of an elegant
six-story structure, comjileted in 1876, and pierced
through the basement with the entrance to a beautiful
bazaar-hall arcade ; whilst several others, in the same
line of street, compete with these in extent, embellish-
ment, and other attractions. The Cafe Royal, in West
Register Street, is a beautiful, large, Italian edifice of
1865 ; the Cockburn, at the foot of Cockburn Street, is
a picturesque structure in the Scottish Baronial style ;
whilst, in the central parts of the city, there are others
whicli have more or less of corresponding character.
The New Club, in Princes Street, a little W of Hanover
Street, was built, and is maintained for their own ex-
528
EDINBURGH
elusive use, by an association of noblemen and gentle-
men, limited to 660 in number, and elected by ballot ;
is a very spacious edifice, after designs by W. Burn,
with Tuscan doorway, projecting basement windows,
stone balcony on curved trusses, and surmounting
balustrade ; and underwent considerable enlargement
about 1865. The University Club, in Princes Street,
between Castle Street and Charlotte Street, was erected
in 1866-67, after designs by Peddie & Kinnear, at a cost
of nearly £14,000 ; is in the Palladian style, with elegant
Grecian details ; and has a handsome interior, with
accommodation for 650 members. The United Service
Club in Queen Street, and the Northern Club in George
Street, are also handsome and spacious buildings. The
Liberal Club, at the W end of Princes Street, is an
imposing dome-capped edifice ; and the new buildings
for the Conservative Club at 112 Princes Street, built
in 1882, are of an imposing character.
The Masonic Hall, on the S side of George Street,
stands behind the street-line of houses, and is entered by
a vestibule through the house No. 98. It was erected in
1858-59 after a design by David Bryce, and is a spacious
well-arranged edifice. The Masonic Hall, on the new
side of Blackfriars Street, was built in 1871, and is a
substantial structure in the Scottish Baronial stvle.
The Oddfellows' Hall, on the E side of Forrest Road,
was built in 1872-73, after designs by J. C. Ha}^ at a
cost of about £5000 ; is in the Italian style, ^vith bal-
cony, several sculptured figures, and corner turrets ;
and contains a principal apartment with accommodation
for about 800 persons, another apartment with accom-
modation for 300 persons, and several smaller rooms.
The Calton Convening Rooms, at the E end of the N
side of Waterloo Place, have a one-story frontage to the
S and to the E, adorned with Doric three-quarter
columns, and are interiorly adapted for public meetings
and popular exhibitions. The Young Men's Christian
Association building, on the W side of South St Andrew
Street, was erected in 1875, after designs by George
Beattie & Son, at a cost of about £18,000 ; is a six-
story edifice in the Italian stj^le ; and contains a hall
60 feet long and 26 wide, a reading-room 26 feet square,
a library, a conversation-room, and other apartments.
The Catholic Young Men's Institute, in St Mary Street,
was built in 1869, after designs by D. Cousin, at a cost
of £4930 ; is in the old Scottish domestic style ; and
contains a hall, with accommodation for above 900
persons.
The Inland Revenue Office stands on the S side of
Waterloo Place, and is the central building to the W of
Regent Bridge ; it rises to the height of four stories, and
is in the Grteco-Italian style, harmonious with that of
the adjacent buildings. The Royal Academy building,
popularly known as the Riding School, stood on the W
side of Lothian Road ; was a large handsome edifice, with
adjoining yards ; contained suites of apartments for the
Military and Naval Academy, and apartments and other
accommodation for teaching equestrian exercises ; but
was taken down in the course of the clearances for the
Caledonian new railway station. The Volunteer Drill
Hall occupies part of the site of the old city workhouse,
off the W side of Forrest Road. It was erected in 1872 ;
comprises a main hall 135 feet long, 96 wide, 12 high in
side walls, and 46 high from the ground to the roof-
ridge, with segment-circular roof supported on iron ribs
and glazed in three stretches ; and includes a meeting-
room, a store-room for 2500 rifles, a spacious room for
work and cleaning, a gallery 50 feet long and 8 wide
for visitors, and other apartments. The Militia Depot
stands olf the E side of Easter Road, adjacent to the
new northern line of the North British Railway. It
was erected in 1868 ; comprises neat ranges of two-story
buildings, for the occupancy of the resident stafl' ; and
has conuiiodious enclosed grounds for drill exercise.
Many of the business premises, in the principal tho-
roughfares, are both extensive and ornate. The arcade,
in Princes Street, was opened in 1876 ; stands associated
with the new Clarendon Hotel ; has an entrance through
the basement of the hotel edifice, 13 feet wide, sur-
EDINBURGH
mounted by the royal anns ; and is not a thoroughfare, but
rather a fashionable promenade bazaar-hall. It measures
upwards of 100 feet in length and about 30 in breadth ;
is floored with Austrian marble in alternate squares of
black and white, and roofed with glass supported on
perforated girders of lace-work pattern, and picked out
in gold and colours ; terminates in three circular-headed
stained-glass ■vvindows, witli handsome rope mouldings
and capitals ; and contains, on each side, seven elegant
shops, each measuring 17 feet by 13. Cowan's warehouse,
in West Register Street, was erected in 1865, after designs
by Beattie & Son, at a cost of about £7000 ; it is in the
Venetian-Gothic style, with profusion of carved work ;
presents ornamental fronts to the E, the S, and the "W ;
and has a height of four stories, besides a sunk one and
an attic. Ta}dor & Son's premises, in Princes Street,
were erected in 1869, after designs by J. Lessels ; are in
the Italian style, with French features, and considerable
variety of detail ; present a fagade 80 feet long and 60
high to the wall top, 76 feet to the roof-ridge ; and
have a basement story disposed in shops, and three
stories and attics fitted as a hotel. Jenner & Co.'s pre-
mises, in Princes Street and St David Street, comprise
several spacious blocks of buildings, highly decorated.
Rows, ranges, and groups of working-men's houses
were erected in the years 1872-82, at Norton Park, Dum-
biedykes, East Montgomery Street, Dairy, andotherplaces
in the city's outskirts or immediate environs ; and are
now so numerous that, had all been built in near neigh-
bourhood, they would have formed a considerable town.
They stand mostly in airy situations, with more or less
of rural surrovmdings, form generally symmetrical ranges
or neat blocks, and present a striking contrast in struc-
ture, accommodation, and salubrity, to the dense and
squalid dwellings of the lower classes in tho old and
central parts of the city. They were, to a large extent,
erected by joint-stock companies ; and have, from year
to year, yielded good dividends on the subscribed
capital. The grounds of Warrender Park, S from the
West Meadows and Bruntsfield Links, have been largely
built upon also, and here many fine streets and cres-
cents are being formed of houses of a superior class to
those referred to above. The majority of the houses in
the wynds and closes are almost blocked against pure
air and a due measure of light ; stand on steep inclines,
with inconvenient access to the main thoroughfares ; are
sectioned, floor above floor, into small separate domi-
ciles ; and are in the upper stories accessible by stair-
cases that are steep, dark, and dangerous. As many as
121 families, at the census of 1861, occupied single-
roomed domiciles, each without a window ; as many as
13,209 families lived each in a domicile of only one
apartment ; and 1530 of these families comprised each
from 6 to 15 individuals. Considerable relief from this
state of things has been aff"orded by the erection of the
new houses for working-men ; and corresponding im-
provement on the architectural aspects of the city has
accrued partly from the erection of these houses, and
partly from the demolitions and reconstructions noticed
in a previous section, as done under the City Improve-
ment Act of 1867.
Public Promenades. — Thoroughly public promenades
always open, readily accessible, containing 'ample scope
and verge enough ' for exercise and games, are not so
good and abundant in Edinburgh as they ought to be,
yet the space for such is much larger and better than in
many other populous towns. Not a few of the public
thoroughfares, likewise, comprising several in tho Old
Town, and the majority in the New, whether for walk-
ing exercise, for good air, or for exquisite scenery, are
eminently good public promenades.
East Princes Street Gardens were first formed in 1830,
and then planted with 77,000 shrubs and trees, under
the direction of Dr Patrick Neill. When broken in
upon by the extension of tho Edinburgh and Glasgow
Railway, they were re-formed in 1849-50 at the expense
of £4400, received from the railway company as com-
pensation. They comprise much diversity of ground,
ascending from a deep centre over high graduated banks,
31
EDINBURGH
and are so skilfully and tastefully laid out as to contain,
within their comparatively narrow limits, a remarkable
variety of promenade, parterre, shrubbery, and grove.
A terrace about 100 feet broad, on the same level as
Princes Street roadway, extends along their N side ; is
traversed by a gravel walk 20 feet broad, and partly
occupied by the Scott, Wilson, Black, and Livingstone
monuments ; and is bounded, along the S, by a hand-
some parapet wall 4 feet high, with pedestals at regular
intervals for six statues. A walk about 10 feet wide
extends along the middle of the face of the N slope ;
and is reached, from the ends of the terrace, by two
fine flights of steps, each 15 feet wide at the top, ex-
panding with circular wing walls to nearly 30 feet
toward the bottom. The tract between the terrace and
that walk is carpeted with sward ; and the lower tracts
are variously sloping and level, have intersections of
walks and interspersions of shrubbery, and are separated
from the railway by an ornamental embankment. The
W end, comprising the eastern skirts of the Mound, is
traversed by a broad gravel walk, connecting the N and
the Ssides, andcommandsthcnceinterestingviewstoward
the North Bridge and Calton Hill. It lost much of its
sylvan appearance by the operations for improving the
Mound about the year 1855, acquiring, instead, an
ornamental iron railing along the margin of the broad-
paved footpath then formed along the Mound. The S
side rises more steeply and to a higher elevation than
the N side ; is laid out in a manner more diversified
and less embellished ; retains much of the appearance
given it by the planting of 1830 ; and has narrow wind-
ing footpaths, commanding good views. The gardens
contain one or two bowling-green plots, but are not
otherwise available for athletic sports.
West Princes Street Gardens, reclaimed from tho
marshy and fetid remains of the Nor' Loch in that
quarter, were formed, under powers of a special statute,
in 1816-20. They have a similar appearance to that of
the East Princes Street Gardens, but extend to fully
twice the length, and ascend their southern acclivity
to the verge of the Castle esplanade. They belonged
originally, as a common, to the citizens ; but were al-
lowed to become private property, attached to the tene-
ments in Princes Street. The town council unsuccess-
fully attempted about 1852 to recover them, either
wholly or partially, for public use ; after which
they became accessible to the public, at certain
hours on certain days of the summer months, when
entertainments were given by regimental or other music
bands ; and could also at any time be entered by respect-
able strangers with keys easily obtainable from any of tho
hotels and principal shops in Princes Street. About
1876 they were, on terms of purchase and agreement, ob-
tained by the town council, and thro'wn completely open
to the public, after undergoing alterations and improve-
ments. They exhibit now a kind and amount of embel-
lishment not much different from that of the East Princes
Street Gardens ; and it is even now (1882) proposed to
add a new feature to them in the shape of a covered
rock garden and fernery, for the erection of which
£1500 have been left by the widow of the gentleman
who presented the Ross Fountain.
Calton Hill was formerly a common belonging to the
citizens, which, as such, suflered serious curtailment
by the formation of the Regent and the London Roads,
the construction of the Regent and Royal Terraces, and
especially the enclosing of all its gentler slopes to form
gardens or pleasure-grounds to the houses of these ter-
races and to the High School ; so that now little more
than its mere crown is public property. Nevertheless
it has been so greatly improved there with broad, fine
walks, and made so easily accessible by stairs, gravelled
paths, and a carriage-way, as to form one of tho finest
promenades in Great Britain. The walks and tho
carriage-way were partly cut through solid rock ; the
former making such circuits ami traverses round and
over the crown as to afford a full and easy command of
the very extensive and surpassingly picturesque pano-
ramic views for which the hill is celebrated. — The
529
EDINBURGH
Queen's Park far outrivals Calton Hill in spaciousness
— having a circuit of nearly 5 miles — as well as in
diversity and romance of aspect, due particularly to
the features it derives from Salisbury Crags and Arthur's
Seat. It competes M-ith it likewise in the grandeur of
views commanded by its loftier vantage - grounds ;
excels it, too, in containing large expanses of level
ground, available for athletic sports ; while, though
strictly the property of the Crown, and under special
surveillance, it is scarcely more restricted than if it be-
longed directly and entirely to the citizens.
The Meadows extend west-north-westward from the
northern verge of Newington, and measure nearly f mile
in length and fully 1 furlong in mean breadth. They
were anciently covered with a lake, called the South or
Borough Loch, which, being gradually drained in the
17th century, degenerated into a marsh, unsuitcd to
any useful purpose, and injurious to the salubrity of
the environs. In 1722 they were let, over their eastern
parts, to Mr Thomas Hope, under obligation to drain and
enclose them, which was so effectually done — the father
of Robert Burns, it is said, assisting in the operation
— that tliey received, over these parts, the name of
Hope Park, and became, in the latter part of last cen-
tury, the favourite promenade of nearly all the literati
and the fashionables of the city. They were after-
wards, over their other parts, completely drained,
nicely levelled, beautifully enclosed, clumped with
wood, and zoned all round and cut across the middle
by broad level avenues between lines of trees ; and
then, as a whole, partly disposed in archery-ground
for the Queen's Body Guard in Scotland, let partly for
drying clothes, and partly for grazing cattle. They
acquired iu 1850 an ornamental wide entrance from the
E end of Lauriston Place, and were opened in 1854 to
general public use for promenading and athletic sports.
They were subsequently improved by the formation of
footpaths across them, the construction of a carriage-
drive along their S side, and various modifications of
their general surface, and underwent further improve-
ments, in completion of well-considered plans, during
the five years ending in 1875. In 1881 a new and or-
namental entrance was erected opposite Hope Park
Terrace at the expense of the Messrs Nelson, and
further embellishments are being added by the planting
of trees and the formation of shrubberies at prominent
parts. The hall of the Queen's Body Guard or Royal
Company of Archers stands in the neighbourhood of
Hope Park, and is a neat plain building. Bruntsfield
Links and Boroughmuir are continuous with the south-
western side of the Meadows. Bruntsfield Links, or
Downs, belong to the city, and are open to all the
citizens. They are claimed by the golfer, who is tena-
ciously jealous of his ancient rights over them, and they
were formerly used as a parade-ground for troops.
A large field at Raeburia Place, in Stockbridge, was
given to the public in 1854 by Mr Hope of Moray Place,
under special regulations, as a, public promenade and
place of athletic sports.
Baths. — Excellent facilities for summer sea-bathing
exist at the parts of the Firth nearest the city, especially
at Granton, Seaficld, and Portobello. The dwelling-
houses, indeed, of even the New Towti of Edinburgli,
excepting in the more recent parts of it, are not near so
generally provided with fixture-baths as the dwelling-
houses in the new parts of Glasgow ; but an excellent
suite of safety swimming-baths, and of other baths of
all kinds, was erected about 1860 on the low ground
at the foot of Pitt Street ; while another suite of swim-
ming-baths was erected about the same time at the
South Back of Canongate. Good public baths, of
various kinds and various extent, for the upper and
the middle classes, are in several parts both of the
city and its environs. Public baths for the working-
clas.ses were long a desideratum, though earnestly de-
sired by many of the working-classes themselves. A
proposal to establish them by subscription was at length
spiritedly begun in 1844, but somewhat fiaggingly carried
out. The chief suite of them was fitted uj) in a tenement
EDINBURGH
purchased for the purpose in Nicolson Square. They cost
upwards of £1000 beyond the amount of the subscrip-
tions paid in or obtainable ; passed under the immediate
management of persons who became bound for the extra
sum ; and were so well constructed and so much appre-
ciated that nothing but the debt upon them prevented the
immediate extending and cheapening of baths for work-
ing-men.
Drainage and Cleaning. — The configuration of great
part of the site of the city, with the inclination of
streets and alleys, and the descent to natural outlets for
water, is favourable to good drainage at all seasons, and
provides powerful natural flushings in times of rain ; yet
this has not served to preserve certain portions from re-
markable foulness of condition, and contributed nothing,
but the reverse, to the drainage of thoroughfares, or
other places on dead levels, or in the bottoms of the
valleys. The artificial sewerage system, throughout the
greater part of the New Town and in some modern parts
of the Old, is unexceptionable in structure, ramification,
and outlet ; yet it is checked or marred, more or less in
most of these quarters, by mal-arrangement in its con-
nection with houses or in its intersection by open foul
drainage ; and a good system of sewerage, in the other
parts of the city and in the outskirts, is in some cases
defective or wanting. The Water of Leith, which
receives gi'cat part of the sewerage, has not water
enough, in times of drought, or even in times of moderate
rain, to carry oft' impurities ; — and often, for successive
weeks, it used to be little else than a great open common
sewer ; — but, under an act of parliament obtained in 1864,
it was subjected to sweeping improvement all round its
vicinity to the city and onward to Leith, at a cost of
not much short of £100,000, and is now under the sur-
veillance of a board of commissioners, comprising the
chief magistrates and certain town councillors of both
Edinburgh and Leith. The district of St Leonard's,
comprising an area of 413 acres, ac(|uired for itself a
new sewerage system in 1871 at a cost of fully £10,000,
and is drained by that system to an outfall of its own
in the Queen's Park opposite Salisbury Terrace. The
city still requires a thorough and complete system of
main drainage, sweeping down towards Leith, and having
such outfall as might permit the sewerage to be utilised
for irrigation on some neighbouring tracts, or sold to
inland farmers.
The surface-cleaning of the streets, particidarly in
the removal of solid refuse from houses, is conducted in
a way to yield the corporation an income of about £7000
a year. Edinburgh sutiers little from the dili'used manu-
rial accumulation which prevails in Glasgow and
some other large towns, and which acts there as a
constant provocative of pestilential diseases ; and yet,
through its defective sewerage system, it suffers pro-
bably quite as much as if manurial accumulations were
permitted to be made. Ashes, rubbish, and all occa-
sional refuse are carried off daily, at stated hours, under
a code of special regulations, in well-appointed police
wagons. The regulations, however, cannot always be
enforced ; and, notwithstanding somewhat vigorous
efforts to maintain them, are very extensively infringed.
They do not prevent the contents of many buckets
being emptied on the street, to lie there perhaps for
hours, or to be widely scattered by bone-gatherers and
by the winds. Excrementitious matters also, in those
jjarts of the city where no connecting pipes exist be-
tween the houses and the sewers, are treated and carried
off in the same manner as the ashes ; and there the
nuisance is frightful — all the more so that these i)arts
of the city are just the parts where the population is
densest, or where the houses are highest and most
crowded. Perhaps, too, the general deposits of the street
manure, the prodigious heaps which are formed by the
daily discharge of the wagons, are not far enough from
the city, not secluded enough from the nearest suburbs,
and not disposed of quickly enough to farmers ; so that
they have been blamed, wo do not say with what justice,
as an appreciable exciting cause of pestilence.
A very large tract in the eastern environs, extending
EDINBURGH
all the way from the vicinity of Holyrood by Rcstalrig
to the Firth of Forth, is disposed in foul water irriga-
tion meadows — being kept in a state of constant swamp
by the ditiusion over them of tiie contents of great com-
mon sewers from the city. This irrigation produces
indeed large crops of herbage, but is a serious nuisance,
loathsome to look upon, horrible to the olfactory nerves,
and probabh', even when the noxious gases arising from
it are diluted with the pure air of the surrounding
high gi'ounds not unaccompanied with material in-
jury to the public health. In winter, when the irri-
gation is not much practised, and the water is, for the
most part, either diluted with rains, or allowed to flow
directly to the Firth, very little disagreeable odour
arises from these meadows ; but in summer, when the
irrigation is vigorously prosecuted, a strong odour,
sometimes a heavy stench, is diffused ; and in dry,
sunny, hot weather, in particular — especially if a keen
wind blow from the E, wafting up to the city the ex-
halations from their entire length of the meadows,
and their greatest breadth, while the exhalations are
held close to the grovmd by means of thick fogs — the
odour becomes comparatively far spread and disgust-
ingly ofiensive. Dr Littlejohn, in one of his reports
on the sanitary condition of the city, says, — 'The
easterly are our most prevailing winds, which pass across
these meadows before they sweep over the New, and the
more elevated portions of the Old, Town ; and it has been
plausibly conjectured that the insalubrity of these winds
depends largely on this contamination. But, at any rate,
a city surrounded by swamps cannot be regarded as in a
sound sanitary condition ; and it is highly probable that
a great part of the mortality of the Abbey and some of
the poorer districts of the Old Town is, in a great measure,
owing to the unhealthy character of these breezes which
blow so continuously during many months. '
Government. — Edinburgh was made a royal burgh by
David I., and was governed from 1583 till 1856 by a
council consisting of 17 merchants, 6 deacons, and 2
trades' representatives — from whom were chosen a lord
provost, a dean of guild, treasurer, and 4 bailies ; it
then had the character of a close burgh, with some little
Seal of Edinburgh.
admixture of popular representation. Since 1856 it has
been governed, in terms of a special act of that year, by
39 popularly elected councillors, from whom are chosen
a lord provost, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and 6 bailies.
The councillors are elected by the burgh constituency,
divided into thirteen wards, three by each ward, and one-
third of them retire from office every year, but are
eligible for re-election. The constituency amounted, in
1862, to 8833 ; but, nnder the extension of the franchise
EDINBURGH
in ISO", it amounted, in 1871, to 23,735; in 1876, to
26,180 ; in 1881, to 28,894 ; and that constituency also
sends two members to parliament. The lord provost ia
elected by the council for a term of three years, and is
eligilile, at tlie expiry of his term, for immediate re-
election. He bears the title of Kiglit Honourable, and is,
ex officio, lord-lieutenant of tlie county of the city, liigh
sheriff of the royalty, and has precedence of all official
persons within his jurisdiction. The other magistrates
retire at the expiration of one year, and cannot be re-
elected till the end of another year, yet may remain in
the council from year to year by filling the dillerent
olHces in succession. The magistrates, prior to the Act of
1856, had ordinary burgh jurisdiction, civil and criminal,
over only the ancient roj-alty and the extended
royalty ; but now it extends over all the parliamentary
burgh. They also, within the same bounds, have ex-
clusive jurisdiction as to weights and measures, and co-
ordinate jurisdiction with the sheriff as to offences
against the public-houses Act ; they likewise wield the
authority formerly possessed by the police commis-
sioners, and form committees to carry out police acts ;
are also commissioners of supply for the city, and sit
in the commission of the peace, comprising about 160
members, for the county of the city, which extends
beyond the parliamentary burgh toward the Firth of
Forth. The towm council now act as city road trust,
and also govern Trinity Hospital ; unite with the city
parochial clergy to govern Heriot's Hospital ; a])point
1 of the assessors and 4 of the curators of Edinburgh
University ; and were also formerly patrons of the High
School, now under the jurisdiction of the city scliool-
board. The lord provost, 2 bailies, and 4 councillors
likewise are members of the Water of Leith sewerage
commission ; the lord provost, 2 bailies, the dean of
guild, and 12 councillors are members of the board of
trustees under the Edinburgh and District Waterworks
Acts of 1869 and 1874 ; and all the magistrates and
councillors are trustees under the City Improvement Act
of 1867. The chief committees of the town council are
the lord provost's, including watching and coal-weigh-
ing ; Trinity Hospital ; markets, including slaughter-
houses ; plans and works, including fire-engines and
police-house department ; cleaning and lighting, includ-
ing workshops ; streets and buildings, including drain-
age, public parks, and bleaching greens ; education,
public health, law, treasurer's, and police appeals. The
town council formerly held the patronage of a number
of the University chairs, but were deprived of tliis by
the University Act of 1858 ; and also the patronage of
thirteen of the city churches, which was taken from
them by the Annuity Abolition Act of 1860.
Ordinary courts for the city, in all the departments of
the burgh jurisdiction, are held daily ; a sequestration
court for the city is held in the Council Chamber every
Friday ; and a tenmerk court for the city and county of
the city is held in the Council Chamber every Monday.
The sequestration court disposes of summary cases, takes
alfidavits and declarations ; and the tenmerk court deter-
mines claims of servants' wages to any amount, and
claims of other kinds for sums not exceeding lis. l^d.
A justice of peace small debt court for the city and
county of tlie city is held in the Council Chamber every
Monday ; a justice of peace small debt court for the
county at large is also held every Jlonday ; and a
sheriff small debt court for the county is held in the
sheriff court-house every Wednesday. The sheriff ordi-
nary courts for the county also are held in the slieritF
court-house every Wednesday and Friday.
The Court of Session in Parliament House is the sup-
reme civil court of Scotland, and takes cognisance of
the same kind of cases as, in England, are determined
severally by the Court of Chancery, the vice-chancellor
and ^Master of the Rolls, Courts of Queen's Bench,
and of Common Pleas and Exchequer, Court of
Admiralty, with excejition of prize cases. Court of
Doctors' Commons, and the Court of Bankruptcy ; and
consists at present of a Lord President, Lord Justice-clerk,
and ten other judges. The Lord President and three
531
EDINBURGH
judges form the first division, the Lord Justice-clerk and
two judges form the second division, of the court, these
two divisions being termed the Inner House ; the re-
maining live judges sit all sepai\itely from one another,
and are severally lords ordinary, and aggregately the
Outer House ; and the latest appointed attends particu-
larly to the business of the bill chamber or proceedings
of the nature of injunction or stay of process, which
require summary interposition. Each of the vast
majority of cases brought into the Court of Session is
tried, in the first instance, by one of the lords ordinary,
and may either terminate in his judgment on it, or
may be appealed to either division of the Inner House.
No appeal lies from one division to the other, or from one
division to the whole court ; yet either division may
call in the opinion of the other judges, and whatever
judgment may be given, either by one of the divisions
or by the whole court, when required to conjoin
opinion, is final as to all authority in Scotland, but
may be appealed to the House of Lords. The Lord
President, the Lord Justice-clerk, and five other judges
form the High Court of Justiciary, having supreme
criminal jurisdiction ; they sit in Edinburgh, at occa-
sional times, for despatching criminal cases belonging
to the three Lothians, together with such cases as,
from their importance or other reason, may be
brought from any of the assize towns to Edinburgh for
trial ; and they distribute themselves every year dur-
ing the vacations of the Court of Session for holding
assizes at Jedburgh, Dumfries, Ayr, Glasgow, Inverary,
Stirling, Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen, and Inverness.
The four senior lords ordinary form a court under an
act of 1868, for hearing appeals from sheriff-courts ; one
of the lords ordinary transacts the business of the Court
of Exchequer ; and one that of the Court of Teinds,
embracing all questions as to modification of the
stipends of the clergy, and the liabilities of parties sub-
ject to the payment of the stipend ; and three judges
form the Registration Appeal Court.
The High Court of Admiralty consisted, after the
Union, of a judge appointed by the lord vice-admiral of
Scotland, and functionaries of inferior jurisdiction
appointed by the judges ; and, in civil causes, was sub-
ject to review by the Court of Session. An admiralty
jurisdiction was possessed also by the city magistrates
over the county of the city, and to the mid waters of the
Firth of Forth, limited on the W by a line drawn from
Wardie brow to the Mickrie stone, and on the E by a
line drawn from the extremity of the Pentland Hills to
the middle of the Firth E of Inchkeith. The com-
missary court, or head consistorial court of Scotland,
was, as to its business, nearly all merged in the Court of
Session in 1830. Two deputies, with office chamber in
the New Register House, perform the duties of the Lyon
court, or, more strictly, of the sinecure office of Lyon-
King-at-Arms. The Convention of Royal Burghs, a court
constituted in the reign of James III. , meets annually on
the first Tuesday of April in Edinburgh, and is presided
over by the lord provost of the city. It consists of dele-
gates chosen year by year by the several royal burghs,
and possesses all tlte characters of a corporation, with
qualities and pri\'ileges which have been conferred by
statute. It has no funds, yet possesses a statutory "power
to assess the burghs annually for the supplies of the
current year ; discusses and determines questions of
trade affecting the interests of the burghs ; and, before
dissolving itself at the end of its sittings, appoints a
committee, who wield its powers till the meeting of next
year. Three portions of the city — Canongate, Ports-
burgh, and Calton — situated beyond the old royalty,
but lying contiguous to the old streets, had formerly
separate burgh jurisdictions, but were annexed to the
city -burgh by the Municipal Extension Act of 1856. A
trivial separate jurisdiction over the precincts of Holy-
rood still exists, and there is an ordinary court on the
first Saturday of every month.
Police. — After the Batth; of Flodden, the citizens
began voluntarily to perform the duty of what was
caQed the watching and warding of the city, and did it
532
EDINBURGH
in rotations of four. In 1648, a paid guard of 60 men,
with a captain and two lieutenants, was appointed for
the duty ; but it proved distasteful to the inhabitants,
and the voluntary S3'stera was resumed. About 1689,
there was raised, under authority of an Act of Parliament,
another paid body, 126 in number, which received the
name of the town-guard, and had its I'cndezvous in the
lower portion of the Old Tolbooth. This body perambu-
lated the streets at night, clothed in old military
costume, with long blue coats and cocked hats, each
man carrying a huge Lochaber axe. A militia regiment,
called the trained bands, was contemporaneous with the
town-guard, comprised 16 companies of 100 men each,
and had the lord provost as colonel ; but was called out
only on great occasions, such as for some state pageant
or on the anniversary of the King's birthday. A better
system was inaugurated in 1805, improved in 1812
and 1822, and matured in 1848, which acquired, and
continues to retain, all the characteristics of the best
modern police organisation. It served, till 1856, not only
for all the parliamentary burgh, but also for a tract to
the N of it ; was originally administered by commis-
sioners, some ex-officers, some elected by certain public
bodies, and others elected by rate-payers. By the
Municipal Extension Act of 1856, the administration was
transferred to the magistrates and town council, and re-
lieved from the charge of the northern tract, which was
assigned to the police district of Leith. The force consists
of 415 men of all ranks, with a chief constable at a salary
of £600. The court department comprises the city
magistrates, the county sheriff and sheriff's substi-
tutes, a public prosecutor and clerk, clerk of court
and depute-clerk, three superintendents, lieutenants,
inspectors, and a court sergeant ; and the civil de-
partment comprises the chief constable, medical officer
of health, burgh engineer, inspector of lighting and
cleaning, inspector of nuisances, master of fire-engines,
inspector of markets, inspector of dealers in coals, a
treasurer, a collector of assessments, an accountant-
auditor, a law agent, and several other minor officials.
Stations, subsidiary to the head police office in High
Street, are at Fountainbridge, Canongate, St James
Street, St Leonard's, and Stockbridge ; but they are
merely lock-ups, each in charge of a sergeant station-
keeper ; and the one at Fountainbridge contains only
very indifferent cells, inferior to those in small pro-
vincial burghs. Another station was added to these in
1874 at Torphichen Street, and was built in the style of
old Scottish architecture at a cost of £4000. All are in
communication with each other by telegraphic wires.
The revenues and expenditures will afterwards be noticed
under the head of finances.
Suh-MunicijMl Bodies. — The Guildry Court com-
prises the lord dean of guild, the old dean, 10 coun-
cillors, a clerk and extractor, a master of works, a
procurator -fiscal, and 2 officers ; and the guildry
council comprises the lord dean of guild, 15 councillors,
a secretary, a treasurer, and an officer. The juris-
diction of this court was at one time very extensive,
and included mercantile and maritime causes ; now,
however, its chief duty is to see that all buildings are
according to law, neither encroaching on private pro-
perty nor on the public streets ; and also that houses
in danger of falling be taken down ; no building can be
erected in the burgh without its sanction. The Mer-
chant Company was constituted by royal charter in
1681, embracing 'the then haill iiresent merchants,
burgesses, <<nd gild brethren of the burgh of Edinburgh,
who were i^^jporters or sellers of cloths, stuffs, or other
merchandise for the apparel or wear of the bodies of men
or women, for themselves and successors in their said
trade in all time comeing. ' They received ratification by
Act of Parliament in 1693, a second royal charter at a
subsequent (late, and regulating ratifications by two
other Acts of Parliament. The latest of these, in May
1827, admits, 'n terms of these ratifications, all persons
'being merchants, burgesses, and guild brethren, or
entitled to be chosen merchant-councillors, or magis-
trates of the citv of Edinburgh.' It charges £63 as the
EDINBURGH
rate of entry-money, possesses property and funds
yielding about £1100 a year, and expended chiefly in
aiding ^vidows and decayed members, and is managed
by a master, 12 assistants, treasurer, secretary, and
law agent, an accountant-auditor, a chamberlain, a
collector, and Avidows' fund trustees. The Trades' Cor-
porations were formerly bodies wielding much influence
and power in the community ; amounted to thirteen
under a convenery, and represented in the town council,
with two others standing apart from the convenery and
the town council representation ; and now form de-
cayed bodies, all still choosing their own deacons. The
thirteen under the convenery are waulkers, constituted
by seal of cause in 1500 ; skinners, by seals of cause in
1586 and 1630 ; furriers, by acts of council in 1593 and
1665 ; goldsmiths, by seal of cause in 1581, and crown
charters in 1586 and 1687 ; hammermen, by seal of
cause in 1483 ; wrights, by act of council in 1475 ;
masons, by act of council in 1475 ; tailors, by seals of
cause in 1500, 1531, and 1584, and by royal charters in
1531 and 1594 ; baxters or bakers, of date before 1522 ;
fleshers, by seal of cause in 1488 ; cordiners, by seals of
cause in 1440 and 1479, and by crown charter in 1598 ;
websters, by seals of cause in 1475 and 1520 ; and
bonnet-makers, by seals of cause in 1530 and 1684.
The two other corporations are candlemakers, con-
stituted by deeds of 1517, 1597, and 1695, and barbers,
by deed of 1722. A remnant of incorporated trades,
with a convener, also exists in the ancient burgh of
Calton ; and remnants of eight incorporated trades,
with a convener, under a common royal charter of
1863, exist in Canongate. The High Constables, in-
stituted in 1611, are a 1 numerous body available for
aid in preserving the public peace in cases of emergency,
and are ruled by a head functionary called the moderator,
and have thirteen captains, one for each of the thirteen
wards of the parliamentary burgh.
Fi'oaTices. — The city corporation revenue is now de-
rived principally from landed property, feu-duties, and
market dues ; but was formerly derived also from the
shore-dues of Leitb, from imposts on wines and malt
liquors, from the annuity-tax for ministers' stipends,
and from the seat-rents of the citv churches. The
amount of it in 1788 was about XIO", 000 ; in 1841-42,
£19,884 ; in 1853-54, £33,247 ; in 1870-71, £36,521 ;
in 1881-82, £37,757. The value of the whole heritable
and movable property in 1833 — exclusive of the Leith
dues, the church patronage, the High School, council
chambers, and the court-rooms — was £271,657 ; yet in
that year the corporation had long lain under heavy
embarrassment, and was declared insolvent. No actual
emoezzlement or fraudulent malversation, but merely
imprudent management, over-sanguine expectations of
increasing revenue, profuse expenditure for civic parade
and entertainments, and extravagant outlay on public
buildings and public works, could be charged as
causing the disastrous state of the finances ; yet these
were cumulatively such as to require prompt and
permanent rectification, quite as much as if the
causes had been of a graver kind. A debt to govern-
ment of no less than £228,374 for the works of
Leith docks had recently been contracted, other debts
to the amount of £407,181 were due at the insol-
vency, and these .stood contrasted with a total debt of
only JE78,164 in 1723. An act of parliament legalis-
ing a settlement was obtained in 1838 ; and this
relieved the corporation from all responsibility with
the Leith docks, assigned a certain annual payment from
the dock revenues in aid of Edinburgh, and arranged
that the public creditors of the city should receive bonds
bearing 3 per cent, of perpetual annuity, that the bonds
should be transferable, and be redeemable only by pay-
ment of the full sum, or by purchasing the bonds at
their market value. Since 1838 bonds have been can-
celled representing £70,600 of debt and £2118 of
annuity; there being still outstanding in Aug. 1881
bonds representing £314,435, 16s. 8d. of city debt,
£9433, Is. 6d. of annuity being payable thereon.
Other additions to the corporation liabilities, to the
EDINBURGH
aggregate amount of £96,557, arose out of respectively
the Cattle Market Act of 1844, the Com Market Act
of 1847, the Slaughter-houses Act of 1850, the Annuity-
tax Abolition Act of 1860, and the Amendment Act of
the Annuity-tax Abolition Act of 1860. What remained
of all these liabilities at 1 Aug. 1871 was only
£338,145, 16s. 8d. of principal, or £10,144, 7.s. 6d.
of annuity or interest, under the act of 1838 ; £5735,
14s. 7d. of principal, or £229, 8s. 7d. of annuity or in-
terest, under the act of 1850 ; and £53,675 of principal,
or £1878, 12s. 6d. of annuity or interest, under the
act of 1870.
The gross amount of municipal revenue for the year
ending 1 Aug. 1881 was made up as follows : — Creditors'
account, £17,987, 8s. 9d. ; jj^per municipal account,
£11,578, 18s. 6d. ; Waterof Leith sewerage fund, £1101,
14s. 2d. ; city clerk's fee fund, £1724, 14s. lOd. ; regis-
tration of births, deaths, and marriages, £2065, 6s. 5d. ;
valuation of lands, etc., £2131, lis. ; registration of
voters, £1653, 5s. 5d. ; markets and customs, £13,419,
17s. 6|d. ; slaughter houses, £4162, 14s. 0|d. ; Trinity
Hospital, £3867, 2s. 9d. ; which, with the revenue from 35
minor trusts, gave a total revenue of £71,047, 19s. l^d.,
against an expenditure on the same trusts of £62,911,
10s. O^d. The Veterinary College trust income was
£1194, 4s. 4d. ; expenditure, £1446, 6s. 6d.
The police revenue for the year ending 15 May 1881
was £95,764, 6s. 8d. in current expenditure, £2172,
3s. 6d. in capital expenditure, £18, 8s. 6d. sinking
fund — for general police purposes ; £20,558, 9s. 6d-
streets and public safety ; £5131, Os. 9d. current ex-
penditure, £2540 capital expenditure — for general im-
provements ; £4243, 17s. 5d. for sewers and drains ;
£2827, 14s. 3d. for public health; allowances in
watching department, £264, 6s. 6d. — total revenue
£142,520, 7s. l^d., against an expenditure of £169,409,
7s. 3d.
The total amount of revenue in the two departments,
police and municipal, was £246,141, 12s. lOd. , but that
suff"ered deduction of capital sums in the mimicipal de-
partment of £3457, 3s. Id., in improvements depart-
ment of £6166, 10s., in police department of £4712,
3s. 6d. , and therefore amounted practically only to
£231,805, 16s. 3d., which was thus classified in regard
to its destination or uses into six several departments —
municipal, inclusive of city, markets, and slaughter-
house revenues, £40,513, 18s. 0|d. ; police, inclusive of
watching, lighting, cleaning, fire-engines, public parks,
sewers, public health, etc., £137,543, 17s. 14d. ; im-
provements, under act of 1867, £24,778, 6s. ; registra-
tion, valuation, inspection, etc., £7372, 7s. 5d. ; trust
revenues, inclusive of Trinity Hospital, etc., £11,111,
2s. 3d. ; and other revenues transferred from one
account to another, £10,486, 5s. 4|d.
The income and the expenditure of the city improve-
ment trust are classified into two accounts, the cost
account and the revenue account ; and, in the year end-
ing 2 Aug. 1875, were as follow : — The income, under
the cost account, comprises £16,524, 19s. lid. for pro-
perties sold off or forming roadways, £695, 7s. 2d. of
the year's surplus on the revenue account, £15,000
from the sinking fund for discharge of loans, and
£193,984, Is. of loans on mortgages, etc. ; the expendi-
ture, under the cost account, comprised £42,753, 14s. 4d.
for properties acquired and in connection with the pur-
chases, and £8669, lis. 8d. for removal of old build-
ings, disposal of building areas, and formation of road-
waj's, drains, etc. ; the income on the revenue account
comprised £20,656, 5s. 8d. of assessments, and £723,
7s. 3d. of rents and ground-annuals ; and the expendi-
ture, on the revenue account, comprised £1395, 15s. 6d.
for management and collection, £7374, 10s. 3d. for in-
terest and feu-duties, and £11,914 of contribution to
the sinking fund. The total receipts from 1867 till 2
Aug. 1875 were £197,193, 7s. 5d. ; the total expenditure,
during the same period, was £383,565, 15s. 4d. ; and the
amount at credit of the sinking fund, at 2 Aug. 1875,
was £7611, 13s. Id. In 1881 this account stood as fol-
lows:—revenue, £31,379, 2s. 3d. ; expenditure, £14,314,
533
EDINBURGH
3s. Id. ; sinking fund, £3995, 13s. 5d., leaving a gross
balance against the scheme of £108,887, 18s. 4d.
The yearly rental of the parliamentary burgh, since
the passing of the valuation act in 1855, has increased
more or less from year to vcar. The amount, in 1855-56,
was £761,863, 9s. Id. ;' 1860-61, £844,542, 4s. Id.;
1865-66, £1,003,793, 8s. 4d. ; 1870-71, £1,214,046,
Os. lOd. ; 1875-76, £1,419,043, 15s. 9d. ; 1880-81,
£1,727,740, 15s. 4d. ; showing a total increase since
1855 of £965,877, 6s. 3d.
Social Condition. — Edinburgh is strictly the metropolis
of Scotland, the centre of everything national which
remains to it since the union of its crown and its parlia-
ment ^vith those of England. It is the principal seat
of the administration of justice for the whole country,
the meeting-place of the supreme courts of the several
religious denominations, the fountain-head of scientific
and literary activity, the seat of the greatest of the
Scottish universities and of numerous'first-class schools,
and the focus of influences of all kinds over the entire
country. The cit}' contains so many people con-
nected with these interests, and draws such large num-
bers of the refined classes of society, as visitors either
for business or for pleasure, that the population, in the
average months of any year, exhibits a proportion con-
nected with intellectual matters almost as large as the
population of Glasgow or Manchester exhibits in con-
nection with cotton manufacture. The status of the
city is truly national, or strictly Scottish. ' Nothing,'
remarks Mr Lorimer, ' can be more erroneous than to
liken Edinburgh to such places as Bath or Cheltenham,
or any of the mere pleasure -towns of England. Edin-
burgh, after her quiet fashion, is a busy place enough,
and, London excepted, unquestionably fulfils the idea
of a capital more than any other city in the United
Kingdom. She has nothing of that air of a proconsular
residence which, while it confers on Dublin a certain
external splendour, unfortunately renders her more like
to what we imagine Calcutta or Monti'eal, than to the
capital of any European country, however small. There
is no foreign ruling class in Edinburgh ; what she has
is Scotch, and what Scotland has is hers. The true
centre of Scottish life, from her, as from the heart of
the land, the life-blood of Scotland issues forth, and to
her it returns freely again. Every Scotchman finds in
her a common centre for his sympathies. The inhabi-
tants of Glasgow, Aberdeen, Dundee, Perth, and the
like, have no bond of union other than as the inhabi-
tants of a common country ; but every man of them
feels that he has a tie to Edinburgh. It is to her that
he looks for his news, his praise, his influence, his
justice, and his learning. And there is always a large
body of sojourners within her walls who compose a
fluctuating, but, as regards both wealth and po.sition,
by no means an important part of her population.
These persons, we believe, are attracted hither for the
most part by one or other of the following causes — the
beauty of the place, the excellence and cheapness of the
elementary education which they can here procure for
their families, and the prospect which Edinburgh
society holds out of their being able to gratify those
refined and cultivated tastes which they may have else-
where formed. '
The city has a calm, steady character, in keeping with
the predominance of legal, educational, literary, and
artistic pursuits, from which it derives its chief main-
tenance, and contrasts broadly with the fluctuations,
excitements, and mercantile convulsions, which produce
so much vicissitude in manufacturing to'wns. ' Edin-
burgh,' remarks Alexander Smith, 'is not only in point
of beauty tlie first of British cities, but, considering its
population, the tone of its society is more intellectual
than that of any other. In no other city ^vill you find
so general an appreciation of books, art, music, and
objects of antiquarian interest. It is peculiarly free
from the taint of the ledger and the counting-house.
It is a Weimar without a Goethe — a Boston without its
nasal twang.' The number of capitalists, bankers, i)ro-
fessional men, and other liberally educated persons in
&34
EDINBURGH
1831, in Edinburgh and Leith's total population of
161,909, was 7463 ; while the number in Glasgow's
population of 202,426 was only 2723 ; in Manchester
and Salford's population of 182,812 was only 2821 ; in
Birmingham's population of 146,986 was only 2388 ;
and the resj^ective numbers, in times subsequent to that
year, have shown an increasinglj' greater proportion of
the liberally educated class in Edinburgh apart from
Leith. The comparative wealth of the higher classes,
however, is widely difi"erent, seldom rising in Edinburgh
above mere patrician competency, and it makes no such
display among even the highest as among the merchant
princes of the great manufacturing tomis. ' Edinburgh,'
says Alexander Smith, ' is a patrician amongst British
cities, "a penniless lass wi' a long pedigree." She has
wit, if she lacks wealth ; she counts great men against
millionaires.' Edinburgh has a reputation for taste in
certain departments which ranks above that of most
other British cities, and to stand the test of her critics,
is accepted as an assurance of a splendid success.
' The success of the actor,' remarks Alexander Smith
again, 'is insecure until thereunto Edinburgh has
set her seal ; the poet trembles before the Edinburgh
critics ; the singer respects the delicacy of the Edin-
burgh ear ; coarse London may roar M'ith applause,
but fastidious Edinburgh sniffs disdain, and sneers
reputations away.' The drama, formerly not very
much patronised, has come increasingly into favour ;
the circus draws great assemblies ; music, in the form of
concerts, oratorios, and operas, has risen into enthusi-
astic esteem ; exhibitions of the fine arts attract
crowds of connoisseurs ; travelling celebrities, of al-
most all kinds, are warmly welcomed ; the races in
neighbouring towns are frequented by numbers ; and
athletic sports in the open air, from the coarsest to the
most refined, are zealously practised and extensively
admired. The poorer classes, however, as may be in-
ferred from statements in previous sections, are, to a
great extent, excessively poor and depressed, not from
any peculiar bad tendency in themselves, nor merely
from the bad influence of their unhealthy domiciles,
but also, and perhaps chiefly, from the want of scope
for industry, and of healthy stimulus to exertion. The
disproportion of females over males, too, is much greater
than in almost any other town in the empire ; and has
been accounted for on two grounds — the one, the un-
usually large proportion of female servants in the city,
tending to draw giiis hither from the country ; the
other, the paucity of general industrial occupation, for-
cing young men to seek employment elsewhere, while
compelling their sisters to remain in their native town.
Numerous clubs and societies exist for purposes of
amusement or recreation. Among these are the Edin-
burgh Chess Club, instituted in 1822; St Cecilia
Amateur Instrumental Society (1848) ; Edinburgh
Choral Union (^1858) ; Edinburgh Harmonists' Society ;
Scottish Vocal Music Association ; Amateur Quartette
Union ; the Southern Musical Society ; Greyfriars'
Choral Society (1865) ; St George Quartette Club
(1874) ; St Andrew Boat Club (1846) ; the Edin-
burgh University Boat Club ; Midlothian Province of
Royal Caledonian Curling Club (1838) ; Duddingston
Curling Club (1795) ; the Edinburgh Curling Club
(1830) ; the Coates Curling Club (1854) ; Merchiston
Curling Club ; Waverley Curling Club and Skating
Club ; Lochend Skating Club ; Edinburgh Burgess Golf-
ing Society (1735) ; Honourable Company of Edinburgh
Golfers, instituted prior to 1744 ; Bruntsfield Links
Golf Club (1761); Bruntsfield Allied Golfing Club
(1856) ; Warrender Golf Club (1858); the Edinburgh
Thistle Golf Club (1871) ; Viewforth Golf Club (1872) ;
Salisbury Archers' Club (1836) ; Forth Swimming Club
and Humane Society (1850) ; Lome Swimming Club
and Humane Society (1870) ; Royal Caledonian Hunt
(1777) ; Lothian Racing Club (1846) ; Celtic Society for
promoting the general use of the ancient Highland
dress in the Highlands of Scotland, and for encouraging
education among the Higlilanders and the distribution
of i^rizes in schools, instituted in 1820. Of bowling
EDINBURGH
clubs, there are the Edinburgh, the Edinburgh and
Leith Associated, the Whitehouse and Grange, and
the Drumdryan ; while of erfcket and football clubs,
there is an innumerable host.
The clubs, institutions, and associations, which claim,
In some manner or other, to be patriotic or benevolent,
have purposes which range from that of mere self-
gratification to the highest flights of philanthropy
and religion, and are exceedingly numerous. One set
of them are the Edinburgh City Artillery Volunteer
Corps, with nine batteries ; the Edinburgh City Rifle
Volunteer Corps, with twenty companies ; the Second
Edinburgh Volunteer Corps, with six companies ;
the British League Cadet Corps ; Edinburgh and Jlid-
lothian Rifle Association (1861); the Midlothian Rifle
Club ; and, in some degree, the First Midlothian Rifle
Volunteer Corps, and the Midlothian Coast Artillery
Volunteers. Another set are the Grand Lodge of the
Freemasons in Scotland ; the Religious and Military
Order of the Temple ; the Grand Chapter of Royal Arch
Freemasons of Scotland ; the Royal Order of Scotland,
dating from Kilwinning ; the Supreme Council for Scot-
land of the 33d and last degree of the ancient and
accepted Scottish rite ; Imperial Council of Scotland of
order of Red Cross of Constantine ; the Rosicrucian
Society of Scotland ; and the mason lodges in Edin-
burgh— 1, Mary's Chapel ; 2, Canongate Kilwinning ;
5, Canongate and Leith ; 8, Edinburgh Joumeymen ;
36, St David's ; 44, St Luke's ; 48, St Andrew's ;
97, St James' ; 145, St Stephen's ; 151, Edinburgh
Defensive Band ; 160, Roman Eagle ; 291, Edinburgh
and Leith Celtic ; 349, St Clair ; 392, Caledonian ; 405,
Rifle. Another set are St Cuthbert's Lodge of Free
Gardeners (1824) ; St Andrew's Lodge of Free Gardeners
(1863) ; St George's Lodge of Free Gardeners ; Athole
Lodge of Free Gardeners ; Barony of Broughton Lodge
of Free Gardeners ; and St GUes' Lodge of Husbandmen
Gardeners. Of Oddfellows, there are the City, Sir
Ralph Abercromby, Dun-Edin, St Bernard's, and the
Excelsior Lodges ; the Edinburgh School of Arts
Friendly Society (1828) ; the Saturday Half-Holiday
Association (1854) ; the Edinburgh Christmas Club
(1867) ; the Edinburgh Booksellers' Society ; the Edin-
burgh Academical Club ; the Edinburgh Institution
Club ; the High School Club (1849) ; the High School,
Bryce, and Donaldson Associations (1865) ; the
School of Arts "Watt Club; the Edinburgh Health
Societj^ ; the Cockburn Association ; the Sanitary Pro-
tection Association ; the Edinburgh Naturalists' Field
Club ; the Cobden Club, instituted in 1868 ; and the
Edinburgh Parliamentary Society.
Of county associations in Edinburgh, there are the
Aberdeen, Banfl", and Kincardine Association ; Angus
Club (1841) ; Argyle, Bute, and Western Isles Associa-
tion ; Ayrshire Club (1854) ; Border Counties Associa-
tion (18"65) ; Borderers' Union (1874) ; Breadalbane
Association (1876) ; Caithness Association (1838) ; Dum-
bartonshire and Lennox Association (1872) ; Dumfries-
shire Society ; Galloway Association (1843) ; Fife,
Clackmannan, and Kinross Association',; Clan-Gregor
Society (1822) ; Inverness, Ross, and Nairn Club
(1863) ; the John o' Groat Association (1863) ; Lanark
Club (1847) ; Upper Ward of Lanarkshire Association
(1840) ; East Lothian Association (1874) ; Morayshire
Club (1838) ; Peeblesshire Society (1782) ; Perthshire
Association ; Renfrewshire Association (1873) ; Suther-
landshire Association (1866).
Other associations are, the Society for the Sons of
the Clergy (1790) ; Widows' Fund of the Church and
Universities of Scotland ; Elders' Union of the Church
of Scotland ; Lay Association in support of the Schemes
of the Church of Scotland ; College for Daugliters of
Ministers of the Church of Scotland, and of Professors
in the Scottish Universities, opened at Whitehouse in
1863 ; The Edinburgh School of Cookery, instituted in
1875 ; Scottish Ladies' Association for promoting Female
Industrial Education in Scotland ; Scottish Ladies'
Association for the advancement of Female Education in
India ; Ladies' Association for promoting the Christian
EDINBURGH
Education of Jewish Females ; Ladies' Association for
the support of Gaelic Schools ; Free Church Ministers'
Widows' and Orphans' Fund ; Society for the benefit of
the Sons and Daughters of Ministers and Missionaries
of the Free Church ; Ladies' Society for Female Educa-
tion in India and CaftVaria ; Edinburgh Ladies' Associa-
tion on behalf of Jewish Females ; Ladies' Continental
Association ; Association for the Religious Improvements
of the remote Highlands and Islands ; Society of Sons
of United Presbyterian Ministers ; Friendly Society for
providing Annuities for the Widows and Orjjhans of
ilinisters in connection with the United Presbyterian
Church ; Scots Ei)iscopal Fund ; Scotch Episcopal
Friendly Society ; Scottish Episcopal Church Society ;
Scottish Free and Open Church Association (1877) ;
Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge ; and
Edinburgh Diocesan Association for the support of
Foreign Missions.
Another class are, the Society for the Relief of the
Destitute Sick (1785) ; Senior Female Society for the
Relief of Aged and Indigent Women (1797) ; Charitable
or Junior Female Society for the Relief of Indigent Old
Women (1797) ; Edinburgh Society for Relief of Indi-
gent Old Men (1806) ; Fund for the Relief of Indigent
Gentlewomen, founded in 1847 ; Edinburgh Society
for Promoting the Employment of Women ; the
Paterson Fund for Assisting Decayed Old Men and
Women who have seen better days (1867) ; Edinburgh
Association for Improving the Condition of the Poor
(1870) ; Edinburgh and Leith Society for the Relief of
Deserving Foreigners in distress ; Fund of Scottish
Masonic Benevolence, founded in 1846 ; the Thomson
Mortification, for selling Oatmeal at reduced cost to
poor householders ; the Craigcrook Mortification, for
the benefit of Orphans and the Aged ; Scottish Society
for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, established in
1839 ; Edinburgh Total Abstinence Society (1836) ;
Edinburgh Ladies' Total Abstinence Society ; many
variously-named temperance associations. Good Templar
lodges, etc. ; and the numerous hospital, asylum, and
school institutions, which were noticed in the account
of the city's piiblic buildings. Another class still, are
the Edinburgh City Mission (1832) ; Edinburgh Paro-
chial Mission, for the Employment of Scripture Readers
in the Old Town ; Edinburgh Medical Missionary
Society ; Edinburgh Bible Society ; Edinburgh Auxiliary
Naval and Military Bible Society ; Ladies' Association
in aid of that society ; Scottish Branch of the British
Armj' Scripture Readers' and Soldiers' Friend Society ;
Royal Navy Scripture Readers' Society ; Edinburgh
Auxiliary to the London Missionary Society ; University
ilissionary Association (1825) ; Edinburgh Church of
England 5lissionary Association ; Waldensian Missions*
Aid Fund ; Italian Evangelisation Society ; Scottish
Evangelistic Association (1862) ; Edinburgh Subdivi-
sion of the Evangelical Alliance ; Edinburgh Young
Men's Christian Association (1855) ; Edinburgh Young
Women's Christian Association (1874) ; Edinburgh
Working Boys' and Girls' Religious Society (1870) ;
Edinburgh and Leith Seamen's Friend Society (1820) ;
Edinburgli Gratis Sabbath School Society (1797) ; Edin-
burgh Skbbath School Teachers' Union (1841); Edin-
burgh Sabbath School Teachers' Association, in connec-
tion with the Church of Scotland ; and Sabbath Morning
Fellowship Union (1840).
Trade. — Edinburgh abounds in productive industry,
in all departments of ordinarj' artificership, and in noblo
elforts of both skill and labour ; yet has not, and never
had, any considerable stajile of produce for the supply
of the general market. Her manufactures, perhaps, are
more diversified, exhibit a larger aggregate of genius,
than those of many other great towns ; but some are of
the common kinds for the supply of local wants, and
therefore need not be mentioned, while the rest are all
on so limited a scale as to require only the briefest
notice. The linen manufacture was at one time con-
siderable, but sank many years ago into decline, and is
now extinct. The making of rich shawls and i)laids, in
imitation of India shawls, was commenced in 1805, and
535
EDINBURGH
promised for a time to become a staple ; but never made
much way against competition in other quarters, and
eventually fell into decline. Silk manufacture was
commenced, in 1841, in a large handsome edifice at
Fountainbridge, but did not succeed, and was soon re-
linquished. The manufacture of overshoes and other
articles in india-rubber was commenced in 1855, in the
building which had been used for the silk manufacture ;
employed for a time about 350 hands ; and now em-
ploys about 600 within the premises, and about as
many more in an indirect way. A similar manufacture,
bearing the name of vulcanite, was commenced in 1862,
in a new building near that of the india-rubber work ;
underwent such increase of production and enlargement
of premises as to be about fourfold greater in 1868 than
at the commencement ; turns out about 7,500,000 combs
a year, and corresponding quantities of other articles ;
and employs about 500 persons.
Of the other industries carried on, there may be men-
tioned that of carpet-making, floorcloth-making, fringe
and tassel making, and furniture print ; coach-building,
coach-lace making, coach-spring making, and saddlery
and harness ; glass-making, glass-cutting, glass-staining,
and glass chandeliers ; brass-founding, plumber work
fittings, finishing, and gas-meters ; type-founding is
carried on in two establishments, and employs in one of
them upwards of 500 persons ; iron-working, the making
of agi'icultui-al implements and of machines, the making
of tools, carpenters' tools, saws, articles of cutlery, steel
punches, beams and steelyards, wire-work, and wire-
netting.
Working in electro-plate, silver, gold, and precious
stones employs upwards of 1000 persons, having for a
number of years been on the increase. This branch of
industry gives promise of still further increase, and
has long been noted for the excellence of skill and taste
displayed in it. A number of paper-mills in the vicinity,
particidarly in the valley of the North Esk, may be
regarded as belonging to Edinburgh, and are represented
in it by a number of wholesale stationery warehouses.
The brewing of malt liquors is carried on very exten-
sively, and it has long been famous for the superior quality
of its ales. The distilling of whisky is also carried on
largely, as well as the rectifying of spirits ; and one of
the distilleries, the Caledonian, erected in 1855, covers
5 acres of ground, and is 5 stories high in all its prin-
cipal buildings. Other branches are cabinet work,
Venetian blinds, iron bedsteads, clocks and watches,
trunks and portmanteaus, basket-making, brush-mak-
ing, comb-making, whips and thongs, fishing-tackle,
glove-making, button-making, artificial flowers, band-
ages and artificial limbs, and lasts ; colour-making,
candle -making, and soap -making; coloured paper,
leather, ropes and sails, dies and stamps ; printers'
presses ; stuffing birds and quadrupeds ; stucco work,
marble-cutting ; hats, pocket-books, and dressing-cases ;
philosophical instruments, musical instruments, and
building organs ; manufacturing chemicals, vinegar,
pipes ; refining sugar, refining metal ; printers' ink,
globes, chemical instruments, gold and silver lace, hair,
bits and spurs, bows, waterproofs, and air-proofs, mill-
stones, whiting, gelatine, and varnish. Extensive suites
of flour-mills stand in various parts of the suburbs ; and
the nurserymen likewise purvey extensively for a large
part of Scotland, and have their nurseries in the en-
virons of the city, or almost interlaced with some of its
outskirts, most of them being very large. The workers
in the fine arts, particularly painters and sculptors, may
well be regarded as a great body of producers.
The city has a very extensive general retail trade, for
the supply of the wants of its own stated population,
the many transient visitors and travellers passing through
it, and a large breadth of surrounding populous country.
In consequence of being the winter residence of many of
the country gentry, it also draws considerable portions
of the rents of distant estates, and of the dividends of
all kinds of stocks to its banks. It likewise is the
seat of a large market for rural produce ; of weekly
markets in Grassniarket for grain : of weekly markets in
536
EDINBURGH
the cattle-market for sheep, black cattle, etc. ; and of
a great annual fair during three days of November, for
sheep, black cattle, and horses. By its intimate con-
nection with Leith and Granton, it carries on a very
large commerce ; much of that of Leith and all that of
Granton being actually the commerce of Edinburgh, and
technically regarded as separate, mainly for the reason
that these places are not within the city's municipal
boundaries. Edinburgh is likewise the seat of numerous
public bodies, boards, and committees, who control or
manage the traffic of great part of the kingdom ; and
has its own Merchant Company, established in 1681 ;
its Chamber of Commerce and Manufactures, instituted
in 1786 ; and its own Stock Exchange, formed in 1845.
The North British and the Caledonian Railway systems
directly connect the city with most parts of Great
Britain ; the Union Canal aff"ords a cheap communi-
cation with the mineral fields of Linlithgowshire and
Stirlingshire ; the Leith and Granton steamers open
up ready intercourse with numerous continental ports,
with all the principal ports of the E coast of Great
Britain from London to Lerwick, and with the coast
towns and other accessible places of the Firth of Forth.
Printing and Publishing. — Literature, and the arts
connected with its production, may be said to hold the
most prominent place among the productive industi'ies
of Edinburgh, employing many thousands in the
mechanical branches, as well as a goodly host of
literary men, who find the facilities accorded them by
the free use of the gi-eat libraries of very material
advantage — these facilities being, perhaps, greater in
Edinburgh than in any city of the kingdom, excepting
London. About thirty years after Caxton set up his
press in Westminster Abbey, the first printing press in
Scotland was put up in the Cowgate, at the foot of
Blackfriars Wynd. Scotland's first printer was Walter
Chepman, with whom was associated Andro Myllar, and
the date of the introduction is about 1507. It may at
first seem strange that the art should have been so long
in coming to Scotland, when we know that such Scotch-
men as Duns Scotus, Barbour, Fordun, Hector Boece,
and others, lived and wrote prior to that date ; but
such an art like printing could not easily take root in a
country so disturbed and torn by faction as Scotland
had long been.
In an address at the Librarians' Congress in 1880,
Mr Clark, of the Advocates Library, says : — ' The facts
regarding the first introduction of printing into Scot-
land were settled beyond dispute by a discovery of the
late Mr William Robertson, of the General Register
House, who, about the end of last century, found among
the records a patent dated 15th September 1507, granted
by King James IV. to Walter Chepman and Andro Myllar,
burgesses of Edinburgh, in which it is set forth that
they, "at his Majesty's request, for his pleasure, and
the honour and profit of his realm and lieges, had taken
upon them to bring hame ane print, with all stuff
belonging thereto, and expert men to use the same, for
imprinting within the realm of the books of the laws,
Acts of Parliament, chronicles, mass-books, and portuns
after the use of the realm, with additions and legends
of Scottish saints, now gathered to be eked thereto, and
all other books that shall be necessary ; and to sell the
same for competent prices, by his Majesty's advice and
discretion, their labours and expenses being considered."
To what extent Cliepnian and Myllar made use of this
privilege granted to tliem we cannot determine, but as
Chepman lived till 1530, we may reasonably conclude
that a great number of works issued from their press ;
but of these only two are now known — the first, a
volume of metrical tales and ballads such as were
popular in those times ; and the second, the Brcviarium
Abcrdoncnsc. It was not till 1788 that any earlier
])roduction of Chepman and Myllar's press than the
Aberdeen Breviary was known to exist, but in that year
tliere was presented by a Mr Alston, of Glasgow, to the
Advocates Library, the volume of ballads already
referred to, and of which that prince of re-printers, the
late I\Ir David Laiug, of the Signet Library, in the pre-
EDINBURGH
face to his facsimile reprint of this volume, published in
1S27, says — " This neglected and long-forgotten volume
proved to be a collection of those tracts which had been
published in or about the year 1508 ; and which,
mutilated and defective as it was, possessed an almost
inestimable value, and contained various compositions
nowhere else preserved, as being a book completely
unique, and as exhibiting unquestionably the earliest
productions of the Scottish press."' It is known that
Chepman was a burgess of Edinburgh, and that, as well
as being a printer, he was in a good position as a
merchant in the city. He settled a chaplainry at the
altar of St John the Evangelist in an aisle which had
been built by him in St Giles' Church, and endowed the
chaplainry ■\\ith an annual rent of twenty-three merks.
This aisle, built by Scotland's first printer, has recently
been restored by one who may also justly be styled
Scotland's first printer, as far as regards the publication
and dissemination of wholesome cheap literature — Dr
William Chambers, who has also erected a tablet to the
memory of Chepman. The tablet has the following
inscription, in which both the names of these ' first
printers ' are fittingly combined : ' To the memory of
Walter Chepman, designated the Scottish Caxton, who,
under the auspices of James IV. and his Queen Margaret,
introduced the art of printing into Scotland 1507 ;
founded this aisle in honour of the King and Queen and
their family, 1513, and died in 1532 ; this tablet is
gratefully inscribed by William Chambers, LL.D.,
1879.'
Thomas Davidson, the next Scottish printer, appears
in 1536. His first work seems to have been a Strena
or Latin poem, written on the occasion of James V. 's
accession to power in 1528. The only copy known of
this work is in the British Museum. John Scott, or
Skot, was, in chronological order, Scotland's next
printer, and he is supposed to have acquired the art in
St Paul's Churchyard and other places in London be-
tween 1521-1587, and he probably came to Edinburgh in
1538. In 1539 the king granted to Scott chambers on
the N side of Cowgate, at the foot of Borthwick's Close.
It is thought that some of Scott's productions gave rise
to an Act of Parliament in 1551-52 against printing books
without licence, there being among the books enumerated
Tragedies, as well in Latin as in Inglis tongue; probably
this was Lindesay's tragedy of The Cardinal. Scott
apparently did not pay any attention to this enactment,
for he appears to have been summoned before the Privy
Council ' for his demerits and faultes, ' a summons which
he took care not to obey. The next printer is Robert
Leyprevick, a contemporary of Scott, and who took an
opposite side from him in the Reformation contests.
In March 1564-65 Leyprevick received a licence to print
the Acts of Parliament, and also the Psalms of David in
' Scottis metir ' for seven years. This licence was renewed
in 1567-68 for twenty years, and again in April 1568, giv-
ing the exclusive right to print Ane buiJc callit ye Inglis
Bybil imprentit of before at Geneva. But we do not find
that either these Psalms or Bible were issued by Ley-
previck, and in 1574 the Privy Council found it neces-
sary to levy a contribution of £5 from each parish in
the kingdom to enable Thomas Bassendyne to print an
edition of the Bible. He became bound under penalties
to deliver copies ' weel and sufficiently bund in paste or
timmer ' for the sum of £4, 13s. 4d., the remainder of
the enforced contribution being detained to defray the
cost of collection. Having ' guid characters and prent-
ing irons,' the council thought the work, gi-eat as it was,
would go quickly on. The hope was not realised, for
Bassendyne found it necessary to petition for longer
time in 1576 ; and in the following year he was ordered
by the council to deliver up his printing-office and Bible
to Alexander Arbuthnot, who finished the work and had
it in circulation in 1579. The sale of this work was
rather enforced, for the council soon after enacted that
all persons worth £500 should possess a Bible in the
vulgar tongue, under a penalty of £10. After so far
overcoming its rudimentary stage, the art still made but
comparatively slow progress in Edinburgh till about the
EDINBURGH
middle of last century. Arnot, writing in 1779, says
regarding it, — ' Till within these forty years, the print-
ing of newspapers and of school-books, of the fanatic
effusions of Presbyterian clergymen, and the law papers
of the Court of Session, joined to the Patent Bible
printing, gave a scanty employment to four printing
offices. Such, however, has been the increase of this
trade, by the reprinting of English books not protected
by the statute concerning literary property, by the ad-
ditional number of authors, and many lesser causes, that
there are now no fewer than twenty-seven printing offices
in Edinburgh. ' Even with that number of printers at
work, literature could hardly in the strict sense be much
more a source of employment at that time in Edinburgh
than in Glasgow, Perth, or some other Scottish towns.
It soon, however, acquired a new energy, and increased
with such a rapidity, as eventually to earn for the city
the name of Modern Athens, in compliment as much
from being a seat of learning and a source of literature,
as from the corresponding features of the city's situation
and surroundings. Among its earlier publishers was
Allan Ramsay, who published and sold his own songs
and his pastoral play of the Gentle SJiepherd, and was
among the first to establish a circulating library. Of
those who followed were Creech, Bell, Donaldson (father
of the founder of Donaldson's Hospital), Elliot, and
Constable, the first publisher of the JFavcrloj Novels
and the Edinburgh Revieio ; still later, we come to the
well-known names of Blackwood and Black, who have
fully sustained the reputation of their predecessors for
enterprise and liberality.
Towards the end of last century and the beginning of
this, while Byron, Wordsworth, Shelley, Coleridge,
and a host of others were making their splendid con-
tributions to English literature, there arose a society of
litterateurs in Edinburgh which soon became world-
famous, — Jeff'rey, Cockburn, Wilson (Christopher
North), Dugald Stewart, James Hogg (the Ettrick
Shepherd), Leonard Horner (the founder of the School
of Arts), Abercrombie, Jameson, Lockhart, and many
others. These, though they might scarce compare
■nith their southern contemporaries, yet formed a lite-
rary body which had for its central point one of the
greatest authors of the age — Sir Walter Scott. The
earliest magazine of any note published in Edin-
burgh, above the status of a newspaper, was the Scots
Magazine, begun in 1739, which was followed by the
Weekly 3Iagazine in 1768. The latter magazine was,
in consequence of a legal dispute, ultimately divided
into two sections — the one a literary miscellany, the
other simply a newspaper ; and both continued to exist
for a number of years. The increased literary vitality,
however, led to the starting, in the early part of this
century, of the Edinburgh Review, a celebrated critical
and political journal, the earliest of the large quarterlies,
and the first great expositor of Whig principles. The
opening number was published on the 10th of October
1802. The idea of the Ecvieiv originated mth Sydney
Smith ; but Francis (afterwards Lord) Jefifrey became
editor ; and with them were associated Horner,
Brougham, John (afterwards Lord) Murray, and Dr
Thomas Brown. Among the names of later contributors
are those of James Mill, Hallam, Sir William Hamil-
ton, Hazlitt, Macaulay, and Cariyle. The projectors of
the Eevieio found a publisher in Constable—' to whom,'
says Lord Cockburn in his Memorials, ' the literature of
Scotland has been more indebted than to any other
bookseller.' The largest circulation attained by the
Edinburgh Eevieiv was 13,000 coines in 1S13 ; and
Jeff'rey, as editor, received at first £50, and afterwards
£200, for each number. The literary criticisms of the
Review were often prejudiced, but always able ; while,
as for its editor Jeffrey, Cariyle says, in 1876, 'it is
certain there has no critic appeared among us since who
was worth naming beside him.' The fame of his organ,
however, stands highest as a political organ. The
publishing house of this Review lias now been removed
to London. A rival to this followed in 1817, when Mr
William Blackwood issued the first number of the cele-
537
EDINBURGH
brated magazine which bears his name. Gathering
round him some of the ablest literary men of the da}',
including Wilson, Hogg, and Lockhart, Blackwood
instantly achieved success. Till his death, Sept. 16,
1834, Blackwood was the leading spirit of the magaziue,
of which there was never a sole and irresponsible editor.
As a political organ of the Tory party it was long a
power, and at tirst a terror. But its forte was litera-
ture ; and if the ' sound of revelry by night ' was in the
old days too loudly echoed in its l>ages, it has now
completely died away. Yet it has not lost, but only
changed its .spirit. Under the successors of ' Ebony, '
Blackwood maintains its position in the face of numerous
and formidable rivals, and is still admirable for the
various talent it commands.
Other similar literary ventures followed, such as
Tail's Edinburgh Magazine, with various success, but
generally of short duration, till Dr William Chambers
started Chambers' s Edinburgh Jo^irnalm 1832, a periodi-
cal— purely literary and entirely unsectarian as regards
either politics or religion — which was at once successful,
and still retains, in undiminished degree, its excellence
and popularity. After its fourteenth number Robert
Chambers became joint editor, and the firm of William
and Robert Chambers was established. By the sterling
merits both of the publishers and their works, the firm
soon became, and has ever since continued to lae, one of
the foremost in the northern part of the kingdom. The
people of Scotland have long regarded it with a feeling
of national pride not bestowed on any other firm how-
ever eminent. The jubilee of Chambers's Journal was
celebrated in February 1882. This firm did not con-
fine their attention solely to their Journal, but have
been the publishers of many educational works and
other books of a popular kind. Various other periodi-
cals and magazines are published in Edinburgh, but
these are mostly of a sectional or ecclesiastical character,
having limited circulations.
Perhaps the greatest work ever published by the press
of Edinburgh is the Encyclopcedia Britannica, first pub-
lished in 1771 (the ninth edition of which being now
in course of publication) ; but important as that work
was in its first issue, it was but an imperfect indication
of the literary activity soon to follow, and which has
had so important an effect upon the city's prosperity.
The far-reaching speculations of Constable with his
popular Miscellany and other works, the many produc-
tions of the BallantjTie Press, with its everliowiug
stream of novels from the pen of the author of Waver-
ley, gave ample proof to the world that Edinburgh was
rapidly becoming a centre of literature. Since then this
has rapidly increased, and now it may be said to pro-
duce a more than proportional quantity of informational
standard works than any other city, with perhaps the
exception only of London. It ought not to be forgot-
ten, as an important aid to the cheap jiroduction of
literature, that the process of stereotj'ping was the
invention of an Edinburgh silversmith, named John
Ged, specimens of whose work may be seen in the
Advocates Library, where a case in one of the halls
contains stereo-plates of an edition of Sallust, which
were made by him. The publishing firms now are
many, the printing establishments numerous and com-
plete. That of Messrs Nelson, where publishing and
printing are combined, gives employment to nearly 700
people, and that of Messrs Chambers to about 600,
while several others have nearly as many. Engraving,
lithographing, and bookbinding are carried on also in
many large establishments — some in connection with
printing offices, and others independently, and alto-
gether many thousands of people are thus engaged
in the production of books. The literary prestige
which the northern capital attained in the days of
Waverley and the Edinburgh Review has thus been
well maintained, even although in these latter days
the great capital attracts and absorbs the principal
literary talent of the nation.
Keu-s-papers. — The newspaper press of Edinburgh ori-
ginated during the civil wars of the 17th century — the
638
EDINBURGH
first being the Scots Intelligencer (1643), which was
followed in Oct. 1653 by a reprint of a London paper
called Mercurius Politicus. This was first issued at Leith
by Christopher Higgins, a printer who came with Crom-
well's troops in 1652 to garrison the citadel of that to'mi,
and who afterwards transferred his ofiice to Edinburgh,
where he continued to print his paper till 1660. The
Politicus was almost wholly devoted to the affairs of
Cromwell and of his army of invasion. Shortly after the
discontinuance of Higgins' reprint, the Mercurius Cale-
donius was issued, the first number bearing the date,
' From Monday Decemb. 31 to Tuesday, Jan. 8th, 1661,'
and this paper was the first which was wholly edited
and published in Edinburgh. It shortly changed its
named to Mercurius Publiais, and was succeeded by
The Kingdom's Intelligencer. For some time the in-
habitants were wholly destitute of anything in the
shape of a ' news-letter, ' till a printer named James
Watson started the Edinburgh Gazette in 1669, and fol-
lowed this by the Edinburgh Courant in 1705, which
lasted long enough to issue 55 numbers. The Scots
Caiirant, also published by Watson, followed in 1706,
and it again was succeeded by the Edinburgh Flying
Post and the Scots Postman. These papers were all
short-lived. In 1718 a privilege was given to a printer
named James M'Ewan to publish the Edinburgh Evening
Courant three times a week, on condition that a copy
should be given to the magistrates before publication.
This paper, as The Courant, is still in existence as the
organ of the Conservative and Established Church parties.
The Caledonian Mercury was published first as a three
times a-week paper in 1720 by James Rolland, but always
claimed a longer history by tracing back its lineage to
the Mercurius Caledonius of 1660. The political his-
tory of this paper was full of change. The entrance
of Prince Charles Stewart into Edinburgh altered its
sentiments from the soundest Hanoverianism to the
most rabid Jacobitism, while the retreat from Derby
was the signal for a demonstrative rejoicing at the over-
throw of 'Rebellion.' When Liberal doctrines began
to pervade Scotland, the Mercury espoused them with
moderateness ; and during this period, as well as for
many years previousl}', it was conducted with much
ability. It latterly became a Radical organ of the
fiercest sort, and about 1865 was finally merged in
the IFccHy Scotsman. The Edinburgh Advertiser, esta-
blished in 1764, was also a Tory organ, and was so pro-
fitable a venture, combined as it was with a book-work
ofiice, that its proprietor, James Donaldson, at his death
in 1830 was enabled to leave £200,000 for the erection
and endowment of the princely hospital which bears his
name. Another, named the Edinburgh Weekly Journal,
which continued do^vn to 1848, was also a successful
paper. The Scotsman, founded in 1817 in the Whig
interest, has always been one of the ablest and most
consistent of that party's organs, and fought the battles
of Reform and Free Trade with indefatigable vigour.
Under the editorship of Charles M'Laren, J. R. M'Cul-
loch, and particularly Alexander Russel, it distanced
all competitors, and has now attained a circulation
greater than that of any ])aper in Britain out of London.
The Scotsman was the first to initiate various enter-
prises, in which it has been followed with commendable
alacrity by several other Scotch papers, such as the
establishment of S2)ecial telegraphic wires to London,
and the running of special trains to diti'erent parts of
the country for the transmission of early editions. It
also introduced the ' Walter Press ' into the printing
department before any other non-metiopolitan journal.
It has two special London wires and three Walter
presses. Under its present management it has shown
a resolute determination to throw off the reproach of
provincialism (which Mr Russel's editorship, brilliant
though it was, tended to confirm), has boldly challenged
the infallibility of the London press, and on several
notable occasions anticipated the latter in the publica-
tion of important news. It has also conspicuously
widened the range of its intellectual sympathies — litera-
tui-e, education, and social progress receiving a much
EDINBURGH
larger and more liberal attention than formerly. The
Edinburgh Daily Reviciv, founded in 1861, took the
place of the old Witness as the leading Free Church
paper, and has specially signalised itself by an almost
uninterrupted series of attacks on the Church of Scot-
land. It is certainly the most vehement and persistent
organ of Disestablishment N of the Tweed. The
other daily papers of Edinburgh are the Evening Neios
(Liberal) and the Evening Express (Conservative). Nu-
merous others have been issued from time to time, but
are all now extinct. There is also a number of weekly
papers, generally class organs, such as the Guardian
(Episcopal Church), A^orth British Agriculturist, etc.,
etc. A great impetus was given in Edinburgh as else-
where to newspaper enterprise by the successive repeal
of the various taxes on knowledge — the advertisement
duty on 4 Aug. 1853, the stamp duty on 15 June 1855,
and the paper duty on 1 Oct. 1861, and this brought
down several of the above papers from their former high
prices to the almost universal penny.
Ecclesiastical Affairs. — Large portions of the parlia-
mentary burgh include St Cuthbert's and Canongate
parishes, which have been already noticed as to their
ecclesiastical aflairs ; there are also within the same area
portions of South Leith, North Leith, Duddingston,
and Liberton parishes. Tolbooth parish comprehends
the N side of the ancient royalty from the Castle
esplanade to Bank Street ; High Church parish, the N
side from Bank Street to North Bridge ; Trinity College
parish, the N side from North Bridge to Cranston Street ;
Old Church parish, from head of Canongate to St John
Street, and from thence by South Back of Canongate to
Cowgate at foot of South Gray's Close ; Tron Church
parish, the middle of South Gray's Close to Blair
Street, and from High Street to Cowgate ; New North
parish, the middle of Blair Street to George IV.
Bridge, and from High Street and Lawnmarket to Cow-
gate ; St John's parish, the middle of George IV. Bridge
to Castle "WjTid, and from LaA\Timarket to Grassmarket ;
New Greyfriars' parish, the S side from Venuel foot to
Candlemaker Row and Bristo Port ; Old Greyfriars'
parish, the S side from Bristo Port to College Wynd,
and along Cowgate to Candlemaker Row ; Lady Yester's
parish, the S side of Cowgate from College Wynd to the
eastern line of the City Wall at Surgeons' Square ; St
George's parish comprehends the parts of the extended
royalty, southward from the line of Queen Street,
between the city boundary on the W and Hanover
Street on the E ; St Andrew's parish, the parts between
Queen Street and York Place on the N, Hanover Street
on the W, and Picardy Place on the E ; Greenside
parish, the parts between Leith Walk to foot of Elm
Row on the N, Catherine Street on the W, and the city
boundary on the E ; St Mary's parish, all the north-
eastern parts westward to Dundas Street and Pitt
Street ; St Stephen's parish, all the north-western parts
westward from Dundas Street and Pitt Street. Part of
St George's forms the quoad sacra parish of St Luke ;
some portions of most of the parishes, or rather small
portions of their population, form the quoad sacra
parish of the Gaelic Church, which has no definite
limits ; and small parts of the parishes of Greenside and
Lady Yester are included in the quoad sacra parishes of
Abbey, Newington, and St Leonard's.
The High, the Tron, and St Andrew's parishes were
recently collegiate, but are now single charges. The
patronage of all the charges was held by the town
council till the abolition of the annuity tax in 1860, and
by a body of ecclesiastical commissioners from 1860 till
the abolition of patronage in 1875. The ecclesiastical
commissioners were elected by certain public bodies, in
terms of the Annuity-tax Abolition Act, to administer
the temporal affairs of the city churches, and had power,
at the next vacancies after 1860, to allow five charges —
the second High, the second Tron, the second St
Andrew's, the Old Church, and the Tolbooth — to lapse.
Prior to 1872 they had opportunity to allow all of them
to lapse, retaining none except the Tolbooth charge.
The three second charges were allowed to become
EDINBURGH
extinct ; but that of the Old Church was taken under
the care of the Edinburgh presbytery, both as regards
provision and patronage. The stipends of all the city
ministers, prior to 1860, were derived mainly from the
annuity tax on houses and shops within the royalty,
and rose from £200 each in 1802 to £625 in 1850 ; but,
in consequence of the Annuity-tax Abolition Act of 1860,
they were fixed at £600 to each of the existing incum-
bents, which might afterwards be decreased to £550.
Eventually these stipends were payable to only thirteen
ministers, and were raised partly from seat-rents, and
partly from new taxes mixed up with the police rates ;
came, by means of these taxes till 1870, through a bond
of annuity for £4200 by the town council to the ecclesi-
astical commissioners ; and now, in terms of the Amend-
ment Annuity-tax Abolition Act of 1870, are derived
from a redemption fund of £56,500 paid for extinction
of the annuity bond. The statistics of the Established
churches in Edinburgh show the number of communi-
cants or members to be as follows : Buccleuch, 497 ;
Canongate, 1116; Dean, 430; Gaelic, 146; Greenside,
1480 ; New Greyfriars', 537 ; Old Greyfriars', 635 ; High
Cliurch, 443 ; Lady Glenorchy's, 743 ; Lady Yester's,
1855 ; Morningside, 559 ; Newington, 1342 ; Mayfield,
143 ; Old Kirk, 73 ; Robertson Memorial, 799 ; St
Andrew's, 771 ; Elder Street, 219 ; St Bernard's, 1442;
St Cuthbert's, 2796 ; Merchiston, 313 ; Dumbiedykes,
123 ; St David's, 1104 ; St George's, 858 ; St John's,
427 ; St Mary's, 1503 ; St Stephen's, 2058 ; Tolbooth,
781 ; Trinity College, 836 ; Tron, 927 ; West Coates,
616 ; and West St Giles', 527.
The Free churches within the parliamentary bounds
and suburbs show the following number of members
and income in 1881 : Barclay, 1152, £4163 ; Buccleuch,
242, £713 ; Chalmers' Church, 1132, £879 ; Cowgate,
799, £668 ; Cowgatehead, 161, £99 ; Dairy, 368,
£1239 ; Dean, 283, £480 ; Fountainbridge, 402, £276 ;
Grange, 698, £3615; Greyfriars', 379, £757; High,
676, £2334 ; Holyrood, 359, £428 ; Knox's, 279, £248 ;
Lady Glenorchy's, 616, £1993 ; M'Crie, 265, £272 ;
Martyrs', 250, £628 ; Mayfield, 252, £2193 ; Moray,
494, £610 ; Morningside, 260, £1019 ; Newington,
703, £1102 ; New North, 504, £3539 ; PUrig, 586,
£1350 ; Pleasance, 1177, £535 ; Roseburn, 244, £543 ;
Roxburgh, 345, £2443 ; St Andrew's, 441, £886 ; St
Bernard's, 557, £802 ; St Columba's, 483, £778 ; St
Cuthbert's, 435, £2136 ; St David's, 804, £996 ; St
George's, 1084, £11,301 ; St John's, 341, £817 ; St
Luke's, 567, £1721 ; St Mary's, 457, £1300 ; St Paul's,
465, £949 ; St Stephen's, 422, £1832 ; Stockbridge,
747, £1336 ; Tolbooth, 380, £1957 ; Tron, 303, £533 ;
and Viewforth, 1072, £1587.
The United Presbyterian churches within the same
area in 1881 show the following results : Argvle Place,
230, £1073 ; Arthur Street, 340, £523 ; lilackfriars
Street, 216, £131 ; Bristo Street, 990, £2359 ; Brou£;hton
Place, 1412, £3011 ; Canongate, 275, £190 ; Colston
Street, 207, £254 ; College Street, 1245, £1560 ; Da\nd-
son Memorial, Eyre Place, 246, £1408 ; Dean Street,
627, £682 ; Gilmore Place, 1123, £1352 ; Haymarket,
410, £2009 ; Hope Park, 719, £1059 ; Infirmary Street,
584, £1024 ; St James Place, 997, £1531 ; Lauriston
Place, 1120, £2340 ; London Road, 570, £866 ; Lothian
Road, 900, £1246 ; Morningside, 557, £1591 ; Newing-
ton, 677, £1958; Nicolson Street, 800, £1152; Rich-
mond Street, 627, £594 ; Palmerston Place, 691, £3123 ;
Portsburgh, 191, £521 ; Rose Street, 543, £1456 ; and
Rosehall, 86, £1090.
The other places of worship in 1882 are the Original
Secession churches in Lauriston Street, in South Clerk
Street, and Forrest Road ; the United Original Secession
church in Victoria Terrace. Of Episcopal churches
there are, St Mary's Cathedral in Palmerston Place ;
St Paul's, York Place ; St Paul's, Jclfrey Street ; St
John's, Princes Street ; St George's, York Place ; St
Andrew's, South Back of Canongate ; St Peter's, Lutton
Place ; St Columba's, Johnston Terrace ; St James's,
Broughton Place ; Trinity, Dean Bridge ; All Saints',
Broufrham Street ; St John's School Chapel, Earl Grey
" 539
EDINBURGH
Street ; High School Yards Mission Chapel, off Infirm-
ary Street ; St Thomas's, Rutland Street ; Christ Church
Chapel, Morningside ; and Christ Church, St Vincent
Street. Of Independent or Congregational churches
there are : Augustine chapel, George IV. Bridge ;
Albany Street chapel ; Hope Park chapel ; Richmond
chapel, Preston Street'; and Caledonian Road chapel.
Of Roman Catholic places of worship there are : St
Mary's Cathedral at Broughton Street ; St Patrick's,
Cowgate ; Church of the Sacred Heart, Lauriston Street ;
and St Margaret's Convent chapel near Bruntsfield Links.
Of minor religious bodies there are Evangelical Union
churches in Brighton Street, in Fountainbridge, and
the Buccleuch, in Crosscauseway ; Baptist chapels at
Dublin Street, Bristo Street, and Duncan Street, New-
ington ; the German church at Bellevue, the Wesleyan
Methodist chapel in Nicolson Square, the Primitive
Methodist Ebenezer chapel in Victoria Terrace, the
CathoUc Apostolic church in East London Street, the
Glassite chapel in Barony Street, the Friends' or
Quakers' meeting-house in Pleasance, the Unitarian
chapel in Castle Terrace, the Jews' S3magogue in Park
Place, etc., etc.
A presbj^tery of the Church of Scotland takes name
from Edinburgh, is in the synod of Lothian and Tweed-
dale, and meets at Edinburgh on the last Wednesdaj' of
every month except May. It has jurisdiction over all
the old parishes, quoad sacra parishes, and chapels of
ease within the parliamentary bounds of Edinburgh and
Leith, the old parishes of Colinton, Corstorphine,
Cramond, Currie, Duddingston, Kirknewton, Liberton,
and Ratho ; the quoad sacra parishes of Gilmerton,
Newhaven, and Portobello, and the chapelries of Gran-
ton, Restalrig, Portobello Town-Hall, Mayfield, Merchis-
ton, and Elder Street. — The Free Church also has a pres-
bj'tery of Edinburgh, comprehending the 41 churches
within the burgh and suburbs, 5 in Leith, and 7 at
respectively Juniper Green, Corstorphine, Cramond,
Liberton, Newhaven, Portobello, and Ratho. — The U.P.
presbj'tery of Edinburgh comprehends the 26 churches
within the burgh and suburbs, 5 in Leith, 3 in Dalkeith,
2 in Dunbar, 2 in Haddington, 2 in Musselburgh, 2
in Portobello, 2 in Peebles, and 1 each at Aberlady,
Balerno, Bathgate, Broxburn, Burra, East Calder, East
Linton, Fala, Ford, Gorebridge, Howgate, Lasswade, Ler-
wick, Midcalder, Mossbank, Newlands, North Berwick,
Ollaberry, Penicuik, Queen sferry, Slateford, Tranent,
West Calder, West Linton, and 'Whitburn.— The Re-
formed Presbyterian presbytery of Edinburgh has
churches in Airdrie, Loanhead, Thurso, Douglas Water,
Wick, and Wishaw.— The United Original Seceders'
presbytery of Edinburgh has churches in Edinburgh,
Carluke, Kirkcaldy, and Midholm. — The Scottish Epis-
copal diocese of Edinburgh, besides its 13 churches
within the bounds, has 22 at respectively Alloa, Alva, Ar-
madale, Balerno, Borrowstounness, Broxburn, Dalkeith,
Dalmahoy, Dunbar, Dunmore, Dunse, Falkirk, Hadding-
ton, Leith, ilusselburgh. North Berwick, Penicuik, Por-
tobello, Roslin, Stirling, Trinity, and Greenlaw. — The
Roman Catholic diocese of St Andrews and Edinburgh
has its seat in Edinburgh, and reckons within that diocese
the places of worship in Edinburgh, and 27 others re-
spectively at Leith, Portobello, Bathgate, Broxburn,
Dalkeith, Denny, Dunbar, Dunfermline, Falkirk, Fauld-
house, Galashiels, Haddington, Hawick, Innerleithen,
Jedburgh, Kelso, Kilsyth, Kirkcaldy, Lennoxtown, Lin-
litligow, Loanhead, Oakley, Peebles, Ratho, Selkirk,
Stirling, and West Calder.
Edinburgh is always the meeting-place of the General
Assemblies both of the Established and the Free
Churches, the synod of the United Presbyterian Church,
the Church of Scotland synod of Lothian and Tweeddale,
as well as the same synod of the Free Church, and it
alternates with other of the chief towns of Scotland as
the meeting-place of the Reformed Presbyterian Synod
and the Congregational Union.
Population. — The population of the parliamentary
burgh in 1841 was 140,241 ; in 1851, 160,302 ; in 1861,
163,121 ; in 1871, in the 5 registration districts into
540
EDINBURGH
which the city is now divided, the census returns were
—St George's, 50,985 ; St Andrew's, 39,781 ; Canongate,
3.3,183; St Giles', 31,960; Newiugton, 41,079— total,
196,988. In 1881 the returns were — St George's, males,
29,412; females, 36,016— total, 65,428; St Andrew's,
males, 19,821; females, 24,766— total, 44,587; Canon-
gate, males, 13,231 ; females, 15,459— total, 28,690 ; St
Giles', males, 15,687 ; females, 16,954— total, 32,641 ;
Newington, males, 23,483 ; females, 30,612— total,
54,095 : showing a gross total of males, 101,634 ; females,
123,801 = 225,435, being an increase in the ten years
from 1871 to 1881 of 28,447. Adding to this a number
of persons in the landward districts properly to be con-
sidered as town population, the census returns of 1881
show the population of Edinburgh to be altogether
228,190; separate families, 52,668; houses — inhabited,
41,230 ; vacant, 2616 ; building, 426 ; rooms with one
or more windows, 172,863.
Mortality.— In 1863 the death-rate was 26 per 1000,
but since 1867 there having been about 3000 unwhole-
some houses removed, and over half-a-million spent
in city improvements, letting in fresh air and light
where they were unknown before, the death-rate has
gradually decreased, and the number of deaths in
March 1882 was 372, being at the proportion of 17 "18
per 1000 of the population ; in March 1881 the rate
was 21-69 per 1000. In March 1882 the births regis-
tered were 352 males and 330 females = 682, of which 53
were illegitimate.
History. — There can be little doubt that the Castle
rock early became a most desirable place in the eyes of
the ancient inhabitants of the district on which to
build their dwellings, since, from its precipitous char-
acter and limited accessibility, a defence could here be
easily made against the assaults of their enemies. That
it was so used in early times appears from the name
given to the Castle in the oldest record which mentions
it, viz., Castell-Mynd-Agned — signif3'ing the 'fortress of
the hill of Agnes ; * and there are some who affirm that,
before it received this appellation, it had been fortified
by the Ottadini ere their subjugation by the Romans,
and after the introduction of Christianity dedicated to
St Agnes. At a later date, according to a monkish
fable, it is said to have been the refuge of the daughters
of the Pictish kings, they being kept and educated here
as a place of safety in barbarous and turbulent times ;
and, about 617, when the Anglo-Saxons absorbed the
Lothians, it derived from Eadwine, a powerful king of
Northumbria, the name of Eadwinesburh. The Castle
and town — the latter, according to Simeon of Durham,
being about 854 only a considerable village, on the
eastern slope of the hill — next became a possession of the
Celtic kings in the reign of Indulf (945-961), and was
then called Dun-Edin, signifying, in their language,
' the face of a hill,' and descriptive of its natural aspect.
The name given to the Castle and the town, however,
by King Eadwine proved to be the one by which it was
ever afterwards fated to be known, though it was not
till about the middle of the fifteenth century that it
came to be recognised as the capital city, being long
considered to be too near the English border to be a
place of safety. In 1093, on the death of Malcolm Ceann-
mor, Edinburgh became the place of refuge of his widow
and children, and was besieged by Malcolm's brother,
Donald Bane, the usurper of the throne. The town,
though still consisting of mean thatched houses, had
grown to be one of the most important by the time of
David I., being then constituted a royal burgh, and had
in the reign of William the Lyon made material pro-
gress. King William made the Castle a frequent place
of residence ; but having attempted to seize a portion of
Northumbria, the Scottish king was defeated by Henry
II. of England, who took possession of the Castle in
1174. On its restoration in 1186, Ale.xander II., son
and successor of William the Lyon, held his first
Parliament in Edinburgh, and in 1215 the pope's legate
ere held a provincial synod. Alexander III. made it
the residence of his youthful queen, the daughter of
Henry III., and the depository of the regalia and the
EDINBURGH
archives ; and here also Alexander suffered a kind of
blocade by the rebellious Earl of Dunbar.
Edinburgh shared greatly in the turmoils arising from
the wars of the succession, owing to the rivalry of Bruce
and Baliol for the crown. The Castle was surrendered
to Edward I. in 1291 ; and, having afterwards thrown
off his authority, it was again taken possession of by
him in 1291, when the authorities of Ilolyrood swore
fealty to the English king, the city holding out, how-
ever, till 1296. After holding it for about twenty
years, the Castle was recaptured in 1313 by Randolph,
Earl of Moray. According to n policy he adopted,
Robert Bruce, after the battle of Bannockburn in 1314,
ordered the demolition of this fortress, as he had done
several others, lest they should again become places of
protection and strength for the English. Holyrood
Abbej' was in 1322 plundered by an army of Edward II. ;
in 1326 it was the meeting-place of a parliament of Robert
Bruce, and in 1328 of that parliament which ratified the
treaty with Edward III. which secured the independence
of Scotland. In 1334, after Edward Baliol had usurped
the throne of David Bruce, the Castle and to:vn were
again surrendered to Edward III., who had invaded
Scotland to support Baliol. "While the King of England
lay encamped near Perth in 1336, after a campaign
■which inflicted great distress on Scotland and reflected
little credit on England, the Earl of Moray encountered
a body of mercenary troops under Guy, Count of Namur,
on their way to join Edward at Perth at the Borough-
muu' near Edinburgh. INIoray defeated the mercenaries,
drove them in confusion into the town, overtaking and
slaying a number of them in St Mary's Wynd and
Candleniaker Row, and pursued the rest to the dis-
mantled heights of the Castle rock. Being unable to
defend themselves here, they surrendered next day to
Moray, by whom they were set free on condition of
never again bearing arms against David Bruce. The
Castle was rebuilt and strongly garrisoned in 1337 by
Edward III. on his return from the N, but in 1341 it
■was captured by Sir "William Douglas through means of
a singularly expert stratagem. One of Douglas's party,
feigning to be an English merchant, went to the gover-
nor of the Castle and represented that he had a cargo of
wine, beer, and spiced biscuits in his vessel, just arrived
in the Forth, which he wished the governor to purchase.
Producing a sample of the wine and another of the beer,
both of which pleased the governor, he agreed upon a
price and an hour for the delivery of the goods, which
was to be early in the morning, that they might not be
intercepted by the Scots. At the hour appointed the
merchant arrived, accompanied by twelve resolute and
well-armed followers, habited as sailors, and the Castle
gates were immediately opened for their reception. On
entering the Castle, they easily contrived to overturn
the waggon on which the supposed goods were piled,
and instantly put to death the warder and the sentries.
The appointed signal being given, Douglas, with a
chosen band of armed followers, quitted their place of
concealment in the neighbourhood, and rushed into the
Castle. Being joined by their confederates, the pre-
tended sailors, they put the garrison, after a brief
resistance, to the sword, and the fortress was thus
refined by the Scots.
Edinburgh now ceased for a time to be harassed by
the English, and began to grow more into consideration.
During the reign of David II. it was the seat of numer-
ous parliaments, the source of several issues of coin, and
confessedly the chief town, though not yet the actual
capital of Scotland. It was on the accession of the
Stuart dynasty that Edinburgh first became the chief
burgh of the kingdom, and its fortunes became identified
all throughout with those of that ill-fated house. In
the reign of Robert II., the first king of that line, and
who made it the royal residence, the city was visited by
a body of French knights and gentlemen, who came to
give aid to the King against the English. Froissart
describes the city at this time as consisting of about
4000 houses, so poor that they could not afford these
French visitors anything like proper accommodation.
EDINBURGH
Richard II., in 1385, in retaliation for alleged wTon^^s,
made an incursion into Scotland, set fire to St Giles'
Church, Holyrood Abbey, and the greater part of the
town, spending five days in their destruction, but waa
foiled in his attempt to capture the Castle. Henry IV.,
in 1400, repeatedly assaulted the Castle, but he was
firmly repelled by the Duke of Rothesay, then heir-
apparent to the Scottish crown. In 1402, Edinburgh
again became the meeting-place of a parliament, con-
vened at this time to inquiro into the assassination of
the Duke of Rothesay ; but while James I. of Scotland
was a prisoner in England, the city partook of the
desolation which swept generally over the country,
arising very much from the continual strife of the
dominant parties for the ascendency, when the Castle
was taken and retaken. After his release from captivity
on the payment of the ransom, to which the city con-
tributed 50,000 English merks. King James frequently
resided here, and received, in 1429, at Holyrood, the
submission of the rebellious Lord of the Isles.' At
Holyrood his queen gave birth to a son, who afterwards
became James II. ; and the city in 1431, was scourged
with a pestilence, which added not a little to the
general desolation resulting from the continual strifes of
the turbulent nobility.
Edinburgh in 1436 was the scene of the last parlia-
ment of James I., and after his murder on Feb. 20,
1437, it became formally the metropolis of Scotland!
James II. became king when only seven years of age,
and was the first king crowned at Holyrood, this cere-
mony having previously taken place at the palace of
Scone, near Perth. During his minority the Castle was
a frequent scene of contests and intrigues for the custody
of his person ; and this stronghold in 1444 was held by
ex-chancellor Crichton, in opposition to the regent, Sir
Thomas Livingstone. A serious quarrel having occurred
between the regent and Crichton, the king for a time
was kept as a kind of prisoner in the Castle, from which
he was released by the artifices of his mother, who
favoured the regent's party. In 1445-46 the Castle was
besieged by the King in person, and Crichton at last
capitulated on terms of restoration to royal favour.
About this time there occurred within its walls a singular
instance of the revolting barbarity of the times. The
Earl of Douglas, in the exercise of the great power which
he possessed, encouraged the most galling op[»ression
over the country, and was sufficiently strong in his
numerous retainers to bid defiance to the authority of
the state. Cunning and unscrupulous in their policy,
the regent Livingstone and Crichton managed to decoy
Douglas into the Castle, where he was received with the
most hypocritical demonstrations of friendship and
marks of favour. At the close of a banquet, of which
Douglas had partaken in company with the King, a
bloo(ly bull's head was set before him — a signal then
well known to be the precursor of an immediate and
violent death to him before whom it was presented-
Understanding the fatal symbol too well, Douglas
sprang to his feet, but both he and his brother, who was
present with him, were instantly seized by aimed men,
and, despite the tears and entreaties of the young king
for their preservation, dragged to the outer court of the
Castle, and there murdered. James II. and his queen,
Mary of Gueldres, whom he married in 1449, were both
great benefactors to the city, which, by the grants and
immunities [they bestowed, was more indebted for its
prosperity to them than to any previous monarch.
James III., during the course of his troubled reign,
also conferred on the city, which lie made his chief
place of residence, various other privileges ; and during
his time Edinburgh became a place of refuge to Henry
"VI. of England, after his defeat at Towton in 1461.
James III. married the Princess Margaret of Denmark
in 1469, an event which was celebrated by the city witli
much rejoicing ; but, shortly after, Edinburgii suffered
again the desolating effects of pestilence, which was so
deadly and destructive that a parliament, summoned to
meet in 1475, was deterred from assembling. Troubles
of anotlier kind soon followed, for in 1478 the Duke of
541
EDINBURGH
Albany, a putative brother of the King, commenced a
series of intrigues ■which caused much disaster to the
citj' and kingdom. Albany was imprisoned in the
Castle, but elfected his escape to France, whence he
passed in 1482 into England, and bargained there with
Edward IV. for assistance in seizing the crown of Scot-
land, pledging himself to hold it as Edward's vassal.
In consequence of this, an English army under the
Duke of Gloucester marched ou Edinburgh, meeting
there with little or no resistance. The King took refuge
in the Castle, and the English were only induced to
depart after the reconciliation of the King and Albany,
on payment of certain sums of money claimed by the
English, and the permanent cession of the town of
Ber^\•ick. The citizens contributed the money, and
proceeded to the Castle to escort the King and Albany
to Holyrood, where they received from James muni-
ficent expressions of gratitude. Albany not long after
again conspired against the King, who at once retired
to the Castle and roused the citizens, from whom he
received such support as entirely crushed Albany's trea-
son. Early in 14S8 James again became hard pressed
by a powerful combination of insurgent nobles, when
he deposited his treasure and other valuable effects in
the Castle, and retired to the North. The royal army
was defeated by the rebels at Sauchie on 18 June 1488,
and though the King escaped from the field, he was
afterwards discovered by one of the rebels and mur-
dered.
Edinburgh, in the latter part of 1488, amid the tur-
bulence of rebellious faction, was the meeting-place of
the first parliament of James IV., and for some time
the city and Castle were under the domination of the
Earl of Both well. James IV., as he grew in years,
made the city a frequent scene of tournaments and
other like entertainments, and in 1503 he was married
at Holyrood to the Princess Margaret of England,
daughter of Henry VII., from which union descended
that line of Stuart sovereigns which, in the follo\ring
century, united both kingdoms under one crown. In
1513, while a dreadful plague was desolating the city,
James IV. made preparations for an imprudent expedi-
tion into England. After inspecting his artillery in the
Castle and the outfit of his navy at Newhaven, he mus-
tered all his available forces on the Boroughmuir, from
whence he marched to encounter death on the field
of Flodden. The city lent him vigorous aid, sending
many of its burgesses in his train to the field ; and, on
receiving news of his total defeat and death, adopted
resolute measures for a stern resistance — fortifying the
town, and ordering all the inhabitants to assemble in
military array to oppose the expected approach of the
enemy. The privy council withdrew for some time to
Stirling, but, a peace with England having been effected,
James V. was there crowned. The Duke of Albany in
1515 was appointed regent by a parliament in Edin-
burgh, receiving from the citizens great demonstrations
in his favour ; and he took up his residence at Holyrood
in all the grandeur of royalty, causing the young King
and his mother to retire to the Castle. Albany after-
wards adopted measures which first drove the dowager-
queen to take flight with the young King to Stirling,
and next compelled her to surrender that fortress and
return to Edinburgh, when the regent converted the
Castle into a state prison for the King. The conten-
tions of parties at this time filled the city Avith excite-
ment, deprived it of the most ordinary protection of
common law, and made it the scene of frec^ucut strifes
among the turbulent nobles. One of the most noted of
these tumults arose between the Earl of Arran and Car-
dinal Beaton on the one side, and the Earl of Angus
on the other. Angus having roused the jealousy of the
opposite party by the influence he had gained over the
young King through his marriage with the queen-
dowager, he and his friends were set upon near the
Netherbow on 20 April 1515, and upwards of 250 per-
sons were slain in tne skirmish, which was long after-
wards known under the name of ' Cleanse the causeway.'
Not many years after a similar skirmish occurred,
542
EDINBURGH
through a dispute which had arisen between the Earl
of Rothes and Lord Lindsaj\ With characteristic
ferocity they attacked each other with their retainers
on the High Street, to the great danger of the inhabi-
tants, and such was the fury of the strife that peace
was not restored till both noblemen were made prisoners
by the city authorities. Pestilence also, and a menacing
armed force from the Borders, combined in 1519 and
1520 to add to the city's calamities. Parliaments were
held in 1522 and 1523, mainly to devise measures for
suppressing the prevailing lawlessness, but without much
effect. In May 1524 Albany departed for ever from
Holyrood to France, leaving state affairs in utter con-
fusion ; and the dowager-queen in the following July
proclaimed that James V. , then in his thirteenth year,
had assumed the reins of government. While parlia-
ment was sitting in the November following, the Earl
of Angus raised a disturbance, which drew disastrous
fire from the Castle upon a part of the city. Early in
1525 James V. removed from the Castle to Holyrood,
and met his parliament in the Tolbooth ; and Angus, in
the same year, acquired such ascendency as enabled
him to impoverish the city for the pampering of his
favourites. From this time till his forfeiture in 1528
he had the entire kingdom under his control, occasion-
ing incessant disturbances not only in Edinburgh, but
throughout the whole country.
The College of Justice, the germ of the present Court
of Session, being instituted in 1532, speedily contributed
to raise the dignity of the city, and draw to it many
wealthy residents. The principles of the Reformation
had also begun to be privately diffused, and in 1534
the factwas publicly notified in the execution at Greenside
of the martyrs Norman Gourlay and David Straitou. The
two successive consorts of James V. , Magdalene and Mary
of Guise, in 1537 and 1538 respectively, made public
entrances into Edinburgh amid great rejoicings, and
James, having died at Falkland in Dec. 1542, was
buried in Holyrood by the side of Magdalene, his first
queen. Shortly after the death of James, Henry VIII.
of England proposed an alliance between his son Edward
and the infant Queen Mary, daughter of James V. , on
terms unequal and dishonourable to the Scots, in order
to obtain the dominion of their country ; but this pro-
posal, though at first favourably entertained as contain-
ing provisions agreeable to the reformed doctrines, was
resisted powerfully and successfully by Cardinal Beaton
and the Catholic party. To revenge this insult. King
Henry sent an army under the Earl of Hertford, which,
after landing at Leith, set fire to Edinburgh, Holyrood
Abbey, the castles of Roslin and Craigmillar, and made
an unsuccessful attempt upon Edinburgh Castle. John
Lesley, Bishop of Ross, who wrote a History of Scotland
in the Scottish language, of which a modernised edition
was printed by the Bannatyne Club in 1830, gives the
following account of this event : — ' On the next day,
being the sixth Jlay ' [the day after the English army
marched from Leith], ' the great army came forward with
the haill ordinances, and assailed the town, which they
found void of all resistance, saving the ports of the
town were closed, which they broke up with great
artillery, and entered thereat, carrying carted ordin-
ances before them till they came in sight of the Castle,
where they placed them, purposing to siege the Castle.
But the laird of Stanehouse, captain thereof, caused
shoot at them in so great abundance, and with so good
measure, that they slew a great number of Englishmen,
amongst whom there was some principal captains and
gentlemen ; and one of the greatest pieces of the English
ordinances was broken ; wherethrough they were con-
strained to raise the siege shortly and retire them. The
same day the English men set fire in divers places of the
town, but were not suffered to maintain it, through con-
tinual shooting of ordinance forth of the Castle, where-
with they were so sore troubled, that they were con-
strained to return to their camp at Leith. But the
next day they returned again, and did what they could
to consume all the town with fires. So likewise they
continued Bome days after, so that the most part of the
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town was burnt in cruel manner ; during the which
time their horsemen did great hurt in the country,
spoiling and burning sundry places thereabout, and in
special all the Castle and place of Craigmillar, where
the most part of the whole riches of Edinburgh was put
by the merchants of the town in keeping, which not
without fraud of the keepers, as was reported, was be-
trayed to the English men for a part of the booty and
spoil thereof.'
After the battle of Pinkie in 1547 the city was again
troubled and pillaged by an English force, and in 1548
was garrisoned by a French corps of 6000 men, sent by
Henry II. of France to facilitate the intrigues of the
queen-dowager, Mary of Guise, in procuring the mar-
riage of the infant Queen Mary to the Dauphin of France.
In 1551, the city gave a great reception to the queen-
dowager, on her return from the court of Henry II.,
after witnessing there the marriage of Queen Mary to
the Dauphin Francis. John Knox arrived in Edinburgh
in 1555, and by his impressive discourses to large and
excited audiences, soon attracted many zealous adherents,
and speedily gained for the principles of the Reformation
general and popular acceptance. He retired for a time
to Geneva, but returning in 1559, found his partisans
in an attitude of open resistance to the suppressive
measures of the queen regent. Multitudes of the Re-
former's party organised themselves into an army at
Perth, under the name of the Army of the Congi-egation,
and, marching triumphantly to Edinburgh, took posses-
sion of the mint and other offices of government, and
presented a front of open hostility to the royal forces.
Leith, which was then put in a fortified condition,
became the headquarters of the Romish or government
party, who were aided by the opportune arrival of an
auxiliary force from France. Edinburgh was the head-
quarters of the Reform party, and entirely in their pos-
session, whilst the plain which stretches between the
Calton Hill and Leith became the scene of frequent
skirmishes and resolute onslaughts. The irregular
troops of the Reformers could ill cope with the well-
disciplined auxiliaries from France ; but eventually,
aided by a force sent by Elizabeth of England, they suc-
ceeded about the middle of 1560 in expelling the queen
regent's forces from the kingdom. They then dismantled
Leith, and removed every hindrance to the ascendency
and civil establishment of the principles for which they
contended. A parliament immediately assembled in
the city, and enacted laws for the abolition of Popery
and the establishment of the Presbjrterian form of wor-
ship.
Queen Mary, after the death of her husband Francis,
sailed from France, and made a public entrance into
Edinburgh in Aug. 1561. The Ettrick Shepherd in-
dulges a poetic licence in the Queen's Wake, when de-
scribing Queen Mary's progress from Leith to Holyrood,
after her return from France : —
' Slowly she ambled on her way,
Amid her lords and ladies gay.
Priest, abbot, layman, all were there.
And presbj'ter with look severe.
' There rode the lords of France and Spain,
Of England, Flanders, and Lorraine ;
While serried thousands round tliem stood
From shore of Leith to Hol3Tood.'
Mary set up her government at Holyrood, where she
gave formal countenance publicly, but not privately, to
the settlement of the Reformation, and the city, with
Knox for its minister, and the general assembly for its
most influential court, now gave tone to the whole
country, sought to make an end of the very remnants of
Popery, and kept a keen and observant watch on the
religious predilections and social manners of the court.
General displeasure soon showed itself at Mary's fond-
ness for the Romish ritual, and her disregard of the Re-
former's rigid notions of morality. Riotous crowds again
and again assembled beneath her palace windows ; Rizzio,
her favourite, was slain at her feet ; and on the death of
her second husband. Lord Darnley, and her subsequent
marriage to Bothwell, the popular indignation burst into
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fury, the people pursuing her and Bothwell from the city,
and taking possession of the seat and powers of govern-
ment. Mary was brought back a captive from Carberry
Hill, and conducted through the streets amid the jeers
and insult of the citizens to the house of Sir Simon
Preston, the provost, and sent off a prisoner next day to
Loch Loven Castle. All these portentous events were
crowded into the space of one year, 1567. Four succes-
sive regents, thence tUl 1573, failed either to bring
peace to the metropolis, or a cessation of hostilities be-
tween the two great conflicting parties of King's men
and Queen's men, as the respective partisans of Mary
and her son, James VI., styled themselves. The city,
at the time of Mary's escape from Loch Leven in 1568,
was both desolated with pestilence and bristling with
arms ; and, after the assassination of Regent Moray at
Linlithgow in 1570, suddenly passed under the military
ascendency of the Queen's party. Kirkcaldy of Grange,
provost of the city, and governor of the Castle, and one
of the ablest soldiers of the period, ordered all opponents
of the Queen to leave the city within six hours, planted
a battery on the roof of St Giles' Church, strengthened
the City Walls, and provoked a long and disastrous strife.
Two parliaments sat in the city in May 1571 — the one
on the Queen's part in the Tolbooth, the other for King
James in Canongate, and while they fulminated for-
feitures at each other, their respective partisans main-
tained a continuous conflict with frequent skirmishes in
the streets and lanes of the harassed city. The Castle
was held for the Queen with great superiority of ad-
vantage ; Calton Hill, overlooking and protecting Holy-
rood, maintained a front of bravery for the young King,
till an army sent by Queen Elizabeth in 1573 from
Berwick eventually brought victory to the followers of
the King, and forced the Castle to surrender.
On the coming of age of King James, the city was the
scene of a succession of excitements — a magnificent public
entrance was made by James into Holyrood, when
he was escorted by a cavalcade of about two thousand
horsemen ; the Abbey received his parliaments, which
sat there in great style ; and there the King made a
struggle for his personal liberties and royal prerogatives
against factions of the nobUity. Costly entertainments
were also given to ambassadors and other notables in
HoljTood at the city's expense, till at length he pro-
voked antipathy and insurrection by his greed and
continuous encroachments on public rights. At times
James would be on good terms with the citizens, re-
ceiving from them gifts of money and public services ;
while again, as at the beginning of 1579, he was so in-
furiated at them that he left the city, removed all the
oflices of national admini.stration, threatening to utterly
destroy the city, and cherished such an intense resent-
ment that nothing short of the intercession of Queen
Elizabeth could induce him to abate his anger. After
various negotiations, James was pleased to revoke his
declarations of hostility, and made another pompous
ceremonial entrance into Edinburgh, amid great demon-
strations of loyalty; but in 1599 he came once more
into collision with the city, this time, however, with-
out any great disturbance of the public tranquillity.
He delivered a formal valedictory address in St Giles'
Church in 1603, on the eve of his departure to assume
the English crown, and, after a lapse of fifteen years,
visited the city again, when he was greeted with great
demonstrations of joy and much servile adulation, and
presented with a large sum of monej'.
Charles I. in 1633 was crowned Kin" of Scotland
with great splendour at Holyrood, and held in the city,
two days after, his first Scottish parliament ; but shortly
after, by his proceedings against Presbytcrianism and
attempted introduction of a liturgy and bishopric, on
23 July 1637, excited strong disalfection to his govern-
ment throughout the country, and kindled a resent-
ment which lasted more or less till the end of his
dynasty. In all this Edinburgh, as the seat of executive
government, had an extensive and distressing share.
The citizens were organised and trained, under direc-
tion of the town council, to resist the King s mcasurea
543
EDINBURGH
of ecclesiastical cliange. A stiff conflict of beleaguer-
ment and defence arose between the city and Castle,
which terminated in favour of the city ; and, though
the King afterwards appeared in person and was well
received and entertained by the magistrates, the city
still adhered to the cause of the Covenant, and embodied
a regiment of 1200 men for its support. On the esta-
blishment of the Commonwealth in England, however,
the city offered a large sum of money to maintain a
regiment in the service of the crown ; but afterwards,
on the plea of impoverishment by plague and civil war,
claimed exemption from paying it.
Charles II. in 1650 was proclaimed at the Cross, and,
could he have attained tolerable footing in England,
would evidently have been well supported in Edinburgh.
Cromwell, in September of the same year, following up
his signal victory over the Scottish army at Dunbar,
took possession of Edinburgh, laid siege to the Castle,
and forced it to capitulate ; and towards the end of next
year allowed the magistrates, who had all left the city,
to return and resume its management. The city enjoyed
a repose of several years under Cromwell, but was so
impoverished that its corporation could not meet a claim
upon it for £55,000, and scarcely any citizen was able to
pay his debts. The news of the Restoration in 1660
was enthusiastically welcomed, and drew from the town
council a congratulatory address and gift of money to
the King ; but parliaments which met in Jan. 1661
and May 1662, and which hurled enactments against
Presbyterianism and in favour of Prelacy, renewed all
the former confusion, and gave rise to strong measures
against the Covenanters. Edinburgh was put in a pos-
ture of defence ; its gates were barricaded, and all ingress
and egress prohibited without a passport. The very
members of the law courts assumed arms ; the gentle-
men of the surrounding country were called in to afford
their aid ; and, from 1663 till the end of Charles XL's
reign, the city was the scene of the trial, torture, and
execution of great numbers of Covenanters, many of
them the best and brightest men of the age. But the
tyranny which was exercised, the inquisitorial proceed-
ings carried on, the martyrdoms which were endured,
and the practising of military manoeuvres by a standing
army in their midst, did not for an hour coerce the
inhabitants into submission, and scarcely succeeded in
repressing them from attempting bold though hopeless
deeds of insurrection.
The Duke of York, afterwards James II. of England
and VII. of Scotland, resided in Edinburgh from 1679
to 1682, and diffused among the people a ruinous taste
for show and extravagance, luring the magistrates into
many acts of mean servility. During his short reign
from 1685 till 1688, this morose and bigoted King
adopted such strongly offensive local measures in favour
of Roman Catholics, as provoked general disgust, and
caused several riotous outbreaks. In particular, after
convoking a parliament in Edinburgh in 1686, and find-
ing it not sufficiently pliable for his purposes, he, by his
own authority, did what the parliament refused to do —
took the Catholics under his royal protection, assigned
for the exercise of their religion the chapel of Holyrood
Abbey, and promoted as many Catholics as possilole to
the privy council and other offices of government. In
all his actions he was utterly reckless, and prosecuted his
attempts to force the Catholic religion upon the people
with the most abhorrent cruelty and consummate mad-
ness, which ended at last in the entire subversion of the
Stuart dynasty, after an existence of more than three
centuries. Towards the end of 1688 his officers of state
sank into inaction under fear of the anticipated move-
ments of the Prince of Orange, the court of session
almost ceased to sit, the students of the University
burned the Pope in effigy, and clamoured for a free
I>arliament, and the Earl of Perth, the acting head of
the government of Scotland, at length took flight to
the Highlands, leaving the city entirely at its own
disposal.
No sooner did it become known that the Prince of
Orange had landed in England, and that the regular
5ii
EDINBURGH
troops were withdrawn from Scotland, than Edinburgh
was peopled with Presbyterians from every part of the
country, and the city became a scene of tumultuous
confusion. A mob, comprising citizens, students, and
strangers, rose at the beat of drum, gave riotous expres-
sion of inveterate hatred against everything popish and
prelatic, and proceeded to demolish the royal chapel of
Holyrood. There they were fired upon and repulsed by
a guard of some hundred men, who still adhered to the
interests of James. The mob, however, soon rallied,
and overcame the guard, slaying some and capturing
the rest ; they then pillaged the Abbey Church, pulled
down the Jesuits' college, plundered and sacked other
religious houses and private dwellings of Roman Catho-
lics throughout the city, and burned at the cross the
paraphernalia of the Roman Catholic chapels ; in short,
everything connected with the scorned religion or the
ecclesiastical policy of the dethroned monarch was
extirpated with a fierceness approaching to frenzy. The
magistrates, notwithstanding their former obsequious-
ness to James, were equally zealous in their alacrity to
accept the Revolution, and promptly sent a congratu-
latory address to the Prince of Orange, assuring him of
their allegiance. A Convention of Estates, soon after
held at Edinburgh, declared the forfeiture of James VII. ,
and offered the crown of Scotland to William and Mary.
It next abolished prelacy and re-established Presby-
terianism ; and this convention was protected during
its sittings by 6000 Covenanters from the West. The
Castle continued for some time to be held for the
Jacobites by the Duke of Gordon, and received some
slight support from a small armed force under Viscount
Dundee, prowling about the outskirts ; but though the
Jacobite party thus menaced the city and occasioned
some panic, it made no active demonstration, and after
the last hopes of the party were extinguished at Killie-
crankie, the Castle surrendered in June 1689.
The citizens of Edinburgh now cherished bright pros-
pects of prosperity, and began to turn their attention
to commerce, through which they saw great advantages
were gained by other states ; and a company was
formed to establish a colony on the Isthmus of Darien,
which they thought might become an emporium for
American and Indian produce. They subscribed among
themselves for this purpose about £400,000, to which
was added moi-e than as much again by merchants in
Holland and in London. The jealousy of other trading
companies, and the remonstrances of the Spaniards, who
feared interference with their colonies, induced King
William to withdraw his countenance from the scheme,
after he had sanctioned it by Act of Parliament ; but,
nevertheless, a gallant expedition, consisting of about
1200 persons, saUed from Leith in July 1698, in presence
of great crowds assembled to witness the departure.
This expedition founded a town called New Edinburgh,
about midway between Portobello and Cartagena,
under the ninth degree of latitude. During the winter
months everything seemed likely to answer the expecta-
tions of the colonists ; but summer brought disease,
and on their provisions running low, they found, to
their dismay, that they could get no supplies, the
Spanish colonists of the neighbouring countries being
forbidden to deal with them. In May and Sept. 1699,
ere intelligence of these circumstances could reach
home, two other expeditions had sailed, consisting of
1800 men, who were involved on their arrival in the
same disasters. After disease had swept off hundreds,
the last remaining colonists were attacked by the
Spaniards, to whom, after enduring incredible sufl'erings
from famine and disease, the survivors were compelled to
surrender in 1701, and scarcely a waif of either men or
means ever found the way back to Scotland. The failure
was believed to arise, in a great degree, from court
influence and intrigue ; and, being concurrent with
some other disastrous events in Scotland, it operated to
produce in Edinburgh strong feelings of sullenness and
irritation, accompanied by tumults and riotous out-
breaks.
The accession of Queen Anne in 1702 was received
EDINBUBOH
without much show of feeling, but the meeting of par-
liament at Edinburgh in 1706-7 to discuss the proposal
for national union between Scotland and England caused
much excitement. Even while the proposal was merely
hinted at, the citizens, smarting under the Darien
disaster, with the recent massacre of Glencoe still fresh
in their memories, and dreading the removal of govern-
ment offices to London, regarded it with keen suspicion.
When the proposal became known in its details, the
long-cherished antipathies and jealousies of all classes
against England kindled into a fierce spirit of opposition,
and the citizens pressed in vast crowds to the Parlia-
ment House, and insulted there every member who was
believed to favour the union. They afterwards attacked
the house of their late provost, who was a strenuous
advocate for it, then scoured the streets, became ab-
solute masters of the city, and seemed as if actuated
by a desire to crush the authorities altogether. The
crown-commissioner ordered a party of soldjei-s to take
possession of the Netherbow, posted a battalion of foot
guards in Parliament Square and other central localities,
and thus quelled for a time the surging riot. So deep
and general, however, was the popular rage, and so
great the alarm of the authorities, that nothing less
than the whole available force was deemed sufficient for
protection. The horse guards attended the commissioner,
a battalion was stationed at Holyrood, and three re,gi-
ments of infantry were constantly on duty in the city,
and these proved barely strong enough to protect the
parliament during its deliberations on the union. The
members encountered great difficulties, submitted to re-
markable privations, and adopted various devices, in
order merely to attach their signatures to the deed —
first they retired in small numbers to a summer-house
behind Moray House in Canongate, and when discovered
and scared thence, went under cover of night to an
obscure cellar in High Street, and then, before they
could be seen by persons early afoot in the morning,
took a precipitate leave of the city and started for Lon-
don. Scenes of similar violence to those in the city
also occurred in many parts of the country — the national
pride having been fairly aroused at the thought that
Scotland, after having given to England a race of kings,
should become a province of the latter country, and the
people generally protested that the votes in parliament
had been influenced bj^ military compulsion. Edinburgh
now suff"ered loss of a great part of her prosperity, and
lay, for many years, in an impoverished and heart-
stricken condition.
The Rebellion of 1715 commenced with an attempt to
capture Edinburgh Castle by surprise, but this was
checked at the outset by measures which foiled it.
Fifteen hundred insurgents marched from Fife upon
the city, but found it so well prepared by the forti-
fications which the magistrates had erected, and by the
presence of a force under the Duke of Argyll, to give
them a warm reception, that they declined to attack it,
and soon after dispersed. The arrival, shortly after, of
6000 Dutch troops prevented the city from suffering
any further menace. A remarkable tumult occurred in
Edinburgh in 1736, which is known by the name of the
Porteous Mob. Two smugglers, named Wilson and
Robertson, had been condemned to death for robbing
the collector of excise at Pittenweem, in Fifeshire.
Both these criminals made an attempt at escape one
night by forcing a bar from the vsindow of their cell in
the Toibooth prison, but Wilson, being a stout and
powerful man, stuck fast in trying to get through, so
that the jailors were alarmed and the escape frustrated.
Wilson regretted much that he had attempted the
passage first, and considering that by doing so he had
prevented his fellow-culprit Robertson's escape, made
a desperate resolve that he would yet give him an
opportunity of evading the last penalty of the law.
According to custom they were taken, under the charge
of four soldiers, to hear sermon at the Toibooth Church
on the Sunday previous to their execution. When the
congregation was dismissing, Wilson suddenly seized
one of the guards with each hand, and a third with his
35
EDINBUBOH
teeth, calling to Robertson to make his escape, which
he very quickly did, after knocking down the fourth
guard. Wilson's bold exploit made him an olject of
popular symjiathy, and the magistrates, being afraid of
a riot and an attempt at rescue on the day of execution,
supplied the town-guard, then commanded by Captain
Porteous, with ball cartridge. After the execution of
Wilson in the Grassmarket, the crowd began to hoot,
and throw stones, as well as other missiles, at the
executioner and the guard, when Captain Porteous
rashly ordered his men to fire, and six people were killed
and eleven wounded. For this conduct Captain Porteous
was tried for murder and condemned to be hanged.
George IL was then in Hanover, and Queen Caroline,
who was acting as regent, gave a respite for six weeks to
the convict, preparatory, it was oelieved, to a full
pardon ; but such was the exasperation of the people,
that they determined he should suffer, despite the royal
clemency. A party of citizens accordingly assembled
on 7 Sept. 1736, the night previous to the day fixed
for Porteous' execution, and sounding a drum, soon
gathered an immense number to their aid, when they
took possession of and shut the gates of the city, to
prevent the entrance of the soldiers, and then seized
and disarmed the town-guard. The mob tried to force
the Toibooth door with sledge-hammers and iron bars,
but finding these ineffectual, they had recourse to fire,
and soon gained an entrance. "The rioters seized the
unfortunate prisoner, and carried him on their shoulders
down the West Bow to the Grassmarket, calling at a
shop on the way to provide themselves with a rope.
Wishing to despatch Porteous as near the place where
the people were killed as possible, * they selected for
the purpose a dyer's pole which stood on the S side
of the street, exactly opposite the Gallows Stone. Here
the unfortunate Captain's body was found dangling in
the morning by the authorities — the rioters having
quietly dispersed, leaving no trace, immediately after
the deed was done. Great indignation was excited by
all this at court — the lord- provost being taken into
custody, and not admitted to baU till after three weeks'
confinement. The city was threatened with severe
punishment, and a bill passed the House of Lords to
confine the provost for a year, to abolish the city guard,
and raze the city gates ; but in the Commons this bUl
was modified into an order upon the city to pay the
widow of Porteous a pension of £200 a year.
At the outbreak of the Rebellion of 1745, the city was
put in a posture of defence, and on 19 Au^. Sir John
Cope, with the troops stationed at Edinbiu-gli, left that
city for the North to meet the rebels. Prince Charles
avoiding an engagement with Cope, if Cope did not
rather avoid one -Nrith him, descended with his adher-
ents upon the Lowlands by Perth, and crossed the river
Forth a few miles above Stirling. Rapidly proceeding,
the Prince soon reached Corstorphine, a village about 3
mUes from Edinburgh, where, to avoid the guns of the
Castle, he made a southerly detour to Slateford. Charles,
after an anxious night in camp, gave orders early in tlio
morning to try and take the city by surprise. A party
of 24 men were placed at the Netherbow gate, and 60
at the city gate at St Mary's Wynd. This latter gate
being opened to let out a coach containing a deputation
which had been sent out to Prince Charles and brought
back to Edinburgh, and was now on its way to the
Canongate, gave access to the Highlanders, who rushed
in, overpowered the guard, and soon obtained {possession
of the town. Thus, on the morning of 17 Sept., tho
citizens found the government of their capital trans-
ferred from Kin" George to the Highlanders under
Prince Charles Edward, acting as regent for his father,
and at noon that day tho heralds with tlicir usual for-
malities proclaimed James VIL as king, and read tlio
Prince's commission of regency, dated at Rome, 23 Dec
1743. Charles, having learned that the city was in
possession of his troops, left his quarters and proceeded
to Edinburgh, taking a route which would not expose
him to the fire of the Castle guns, the fortress being still
held by the royal troops under General Guest. Passing
545
EDINBURGH
round by Arthur's Seat, he rode forward to Holyrood,
aud lor the first time saw the palace of his ancestors.
Here he commenced a round of festivities, compelling
the magistrates to furnish supplies and the citizens
to give up their arms, though he respected their private
property. After his return from the victory of Pres-
tonpans, he blockaded the Castle, provoking from it a
cannonade which did considerable damage, but after two
days he removed the blockade, and thus prevented further
mischief to the inhabitants. After the Prince's final
defeat at CuUoden, the Duke of Cumberland visited the
city, and caused 14 of the standards taken from the
rebels to be burned at the cross — the standard of the
Prince was carried thither by the common hangman, and
the remaining 13 by 13 chimney-sweeps.
Famine tumults occurred in the city in 1763, 1764,
and 1765, and were quelled only by aid from the
military. In 1778 an occurrence took place, which,
though eventually terminated without bloodshed, at
first bore a threatening aspect, and caused great
anxiety. This was a mutiny of the Earl of Seaforth's
Highland regiment, then quartered in the Castle. It
having been determined to send the regiment to India
at a time when considerable arrears of pay were due,
the soldiers took counsel among themselves in regard
to their present condition and future prospects. One
morning, as the regiment was at drill upon Leith
Links, an unusual place for this purpose, suspicion
was aroused that they were about to be entrapped on
board ship, and sent off without payment of their
arrears. Instantly, as in all probability had been
previously arranged, the whole body shouldered their
arms and marched off at quick step to Arthur's Seat,
and fixed their quarters near its summit. Their
officers, in the first instance, tried to soothe them with
fair promises, but to these the men turned a deaf ear,
having already experienced their worthlessness. Threats
were then resorted to, but these were equally unavail-
ing, as the Highlanders knew they were so situated as
to place infantry at defiance, and that, from the nature
of the ground, cavalry would be equally ineffective.
When it was then represented to them that the Castle
guns would fire upon and dislodge them from their
position, the answer was simply that the Highlanders
would remove behind the hill, and so place that barrier
between them and the new danger. In these circum-
stances an accommodation through the intervention of
some one in whom the Highlanders would place confid-
ence was the only resource, and this was at last effected
through Lords Macdonald and Dunmore, on whose
honour the men had great reliance. Their differences
were arranged satisfactorily, and the regiment returned
to its allegiance, and shortly after embarked for foreign
service.
A no-Popery riot, on the occasion of the attempt to
repeal the penal laws against Catholics in 1799, led
to the demolition and plimdering of several chapels, and
the destruction of considerable property belonging to
Roman Catholics ; but under military force order was
restored without loss of life. The city, during the
menaces of Buonaparte against Britain, made great
demonstrations of loyalty, and raised a volunteer force
of between 3000 and 4000 men.
In 1822 George IV. made a visit to Edinburgh, and
remained there from the 15th till the 29th of August,
occasioning great excitement in the city, and drawing
to it many visitors from all parts of the country. Two
great fires broke out in the Old Town in 1824, on the
EDINBURGH
nights of 24 June and 15 November respectively,
working great destruction. One of these lasted three
days, destroying the greater part of the High Street
between St Giles' and the Tron Church, and it was feared
at one time that it might involve the whole city. The
demonstrations in Edinburgh which accompanied the
general demand for parliamentary reform in 1830, were
remarkably strong, as were also those associated with
the election of the first members for the city under the
new bill in 1832. Queen Victoria and Prince Albert
visited the city in 1842, at first only as lying on their
way to Dalkeith, but they were induced to make public
processions through the streets, and were everywhere
received with the greatest enthusiasm, even greater than
that extended to George IV. The accounts of the sudden
overthrow of Louis Philippe's government at Paris in
Feb. 1848, excited intense interest in Scotland. On the
6th and 7th March alarming riots took place in Glasgow,
and on the latter evening a serious riot also occurred in
Edinburgh. Upwards of 3000 persons assembled at the
Tron Church, when the Lord Provost enrolled a number
of citizens as special constables, and sent to Piershill
and the Castle for military aid. The sheriff read the
Riot Act, and advised the crowds to disperse. These
energetic proceedings succeeded in putting a stop to the
disturbances, but not before considerable mischief had
been done.
The royal family again visited Edinburgh in 1849
and 1850, and on the latter occasion remained two
nights at Holyrood. The Prince Consort at this time
publicly laid the foundation of the National Gallery,
amid crowds of spectators computed to amount to about
150,000. These royal visits were repeated again and
again, and the Prince of AVales resided at Holyrood
during several months of 1859, partaking of the benefits
Edinburgh as a seat of learning. In 1860 Her Majesty
reviewed upwards of 20,000 volunteers in the Queen's
Park ; aud in 1861 the Prince Consort officiated at the
laying of the foundation-stones of the new General
Post Office and the Industrial Museum — this being
among the last public appearances which the Prince
made, as he died a few months afterwards. A great
public illumination was made in 1863 on the occasion of
the marriage of the Prince of Wales, which, alike for
the artistic beauty of many of its features and its
general effect, has rarely, if ever, been equalled by any
city. The Prince and Princess of Wales made a public
appearance, accompanied with great masonic display, on
the occasion of the Prince laying the foundation-stone
of the new Royal Infirmary in 1870. In 1874, on the
occasion of the marriage of the Duke of Edinburgh,
another illumination took place, though on a smaller
scale than that of 1863. Repeated visits have been made
by Her Majesty to the city since the occasions already
mentioned, and in Aug. 1881, the Queen again reviewed
the northern volunteers to the number of about 40,000
in the Park at Holyrood.
Edinburgh was the meeting-place of the British
Association in 1834, 1850, and 1871 ; of the Social
Science Congress in 1863 and 1880 ; of the Highland
and Agricultural Society in 1842, 1848, 1859, 1869,
and 1877 ; and of the Librarians' Congress in 1880. In
April 1882 an International Fisheries Exhibition was
held in the Waverley Market, at which were shown a
comprehensive variety of appliances relative to fishing
and the curing of fish, the stocking of lakes and rivers,
salmon ladders, fisii-hatching, models of improved
fishing-boats, and other relative inventions.
546
INDEX TO EDINBURGH.
A. PAGE
Abbey Sanctuary, . . .479
Abercromby Place, . . . 484
Advocates' Close, . . . 477
Advocates Library, . . , 495
Albert Gallery, . . .507
Albert Memorial, . . . 501
Alison Square, .... 483
Anchor Close, .... 477
Ann Street, . . . .484
Antiquarian Museum, . . 506
Arboretum, .... 507
Arcade, Princes Street, . . 528
Architecture, .... 487
Art Galleries, . . . .506
Arthur's Seat, . . . .467
Assembly Rooms, . . . 499
Asylums, 524
B.
Bakehouse Close, . . . 479
Bank of Scotland, . . .496
Bank Street, . . . .481
Baths, 530
Baxter's Close, .... 477
Blackfriars Street, . . . 481
Blair Street, . . . .477
Blenheim Place, . . . 485
Blind Asylum, .... 513
Board Schools, . . . .512
Boroughmuir, .... 487
Botanic Garden, . . . 507
Botany of Edinburgh, . . 473
Bridges, 481
British Linen Company Bank. . 496
Brodie's Close, .... 477
Broughton Street, . . . 485
Bruntsfield Links, . . . 530
Buccleuch Place, . . . 483
Bums' Monument, . . . 501
Bums' Tavern, .... 477
Business Premises, . . . 528
C.
Caledonian Insurance Co.
Office, 497
Calton Hill, . . . 467, 529
Candlemaker Row, . . . 482
Canongate, .... 478
Canongate Church, . . . 479
Canongate Parish, . . . 480
Cap and Feather Close, . . 481
Carlton Street, .... 484
Carlton Terrace, . . . 485
Castle, . . ... .489
Castle Hill, . . . .478
Castle Street, . . . .484
Castle Terrace, .... 481
Catholic Apostolic Church, . 521
Cattle Market, .... 525
Cemeteries, . . . 522
Chambers Street, . . .482
Charles IL, Statue of, . 477, 499
Charles Street, , . . .483
Chessels Court, . . . 480
Children, Hospital for Sick, . 523
Civil E(Ulices (Extinct), . . 502
PAGE
Classical Schools, . . . 508
Clerk Street, .... 482
Club Houses, .... 528
Clubs and Societies, . . .534
Clydesdale Bank, . . . 496
Coates Crescent, . . . 487
Cockburn Street, . . 477, 481
College of Justice, . . , 542
College Wynd, . . . .482
Comely Bank, . . . .484
Commercial Bank, . . . 496
Corn Exchange, . . . 496
County Hall, . . , .495
County Square, . . . 477
Court of Session, . . , 494
Courts, Local and Imperial, . 531
Covenant Close, . . . 477
Cowgate, .... 467, 482
D.
Danube Street, . . . 484
Davidson's Close, . . . 479
Dean, 486
Dean Bridge, . . . .486
Dean Cemetery, . . . 486
Distance from Principal Towns, 467
Donaldson's Hospital, . . 512
Doune Terrace, . . . 486
Drainage and Cleaning, . . 530
Drinking Fountains, . . 526
Drummond Place, . . . 484
Dunbar's Close, . . . 477
E.
Ecclesiastical Affairs, . 539
Ecclesiastical Halls, . . .514
Edinburgh Academy, . . 509
Edinburgh Institution, . . 509
Edinburgh Life Insurance Co., . 497
Episcopalian Churches, . . 520
Established Churches, . 515, 539
Exchequer Chambers, . . 494
PASS
. 482
. 484
407, 485
. 517
. 499
F.
Fettes College,
Finances, .
Fishmarket Close,
Fleshmarket Close,
Fountains,
Frederick Street,
Free Church College,
Free Churches, .
. 509
, 533
. 477
. 477
. 526
. 484
. 514
518, 539
Free Church Normal School, . 479
G.
Gallowlee, . . . .485
Gas Works 526
General Post Office, . . . 497
General Register House, . . 498
Geology of Edinburgh, . . 469
George IV. Bridge, . . .481
George Scpiare, .... 483
George Street, .... 483
Gillespie's Hospital and School, 510
Gloucester Place, . . . 486
Government, .... 531
Grassmarket, .
Great King Street, .
Greenside,
Greyfriars' Churches,
Gymnasium, Royal Patent,
H.
Hanovek Street, . . .484
' Heart of Midlothian," . . 477
Heriot Row, .... 484
Heriot's Hospital and Schools, . 510
High Church, .... 515
High Constables, . . .533
High School, .... 508
Hillside Crescent, . . .485
History of City, . . . 540
Holyrood Abbey and Palace,
491, 543, 546
Hope Street, .... 484
Horse Wynd, .... 482
Hospital for Sick Children, . 523
Hospitals, . . . 523, 524
Hospital Schools, . . 510
Hotels, 528
House of Refuge, . . . 524
Hunter's Bog, . . . .467
Hunter Square, , . . 477
Incurable Hospital, . . .')23
Industrial Museum, . . . 505
Industries and Trade, . 535, 536
Infirmary and other Institutions, 523
Infirmary Street, . . . 482
Inland Revenue Office, . , 528
J.
Jack's Land 479
James' Court, . . . .477
Jefi"rey Street, . . . 479, 481
Johnston Terrace, . . . 481
Jordan Burn, .... 487
Judicial Buildings, . . . 495
K.
Kennedy's Close, . . .477
King's Bridge, . . . .481
Lady Glenorchy's CFiuRcn, . 518
Lady Stair's Close, . . 477
Lady Yester's Church, . 517
LangGaitt, .... 483
Latitude, 467
Leith Street 484
Leith Walk 485
Leith Wynd, . . .479
Leopold Place 485
Libbertou's Wynd, . . . 477
Libraries, 4".t5
Life Association Ollice, . . 497
Literary Instituli-, . . . 508
London Road, .... 485
Low Calton, .... 485
Lunatic Axyluni, . 524
547
EDINBURGH
EDINBURGH
M.
PAGE
PAGE
PAGE
Magdalene Chapel,
. 482
Princes Street, .
. 483
Scottish Provident Institution, . 497
Manor Place,
. 487
Princes Street Gardens,
. 529
Scottish Union and National In-
Market Structures —
Printing and Publishing,
. 536
surance Co., .
. 497
Flesh and Fish Markets, . 525
Prisons, .
. 498
Scottish Widows' Fund,
. 497
Cattle Market, .
. 525
Public Halls, .
. 528
Seal of City, .
. 531
Marshall Street,
. 483
Public Schools, .
. 513
Shakespeare Square, .
. 485
Masonic Lodges,
, 535
Short's Observatory, .
. 499
Meadows, .
529, 530
Q.
Signet Library, .
. 495
Medical College, New,
. 504
Queen Street,
. 484
Silvermills,
. 484
Medical Schools, Extra Mural, . 505
Queensberry House, .
. 479
Site, ....
. 467
Melville Street, ,
. 487
Queensferry Street, .
. 486
Slaughter Houses, .
. 525
Merchant Company, .
. 532
Social Condition,
. 534
Merchant Company's Scho
ols, . 510
R
Societies and Clubs, .
. 534
Merchiston Castle, .
. 487
Raeburn Place,
. 484
South Back of Canongate,
. 478
Milne's Court, .
. 477
Railway Works,
. 526
South Bridge, .
. 481
Milne Square, .
. 477
Ramsay Lane, .
. 478
Stamp Office Close, .
. . 477
]\Iilton House, .
. 479
Ramsay's (Allan) House,
. 478
Standard Insurance Co. Office, . 497
IMinto House, . .
. 506
Randolph Crescent, .
. 486
Stewart's Hospital, .
. 510
Monuments,
. 499
Refuge Asylums,
. 524
Stockbridge,
. 484
Moray House, .
. 479
Regent Bridge,
. 485
Surgeons' Hall,
. 505
Moray Place,
. 486
Regent Road, .
. 485
Morningside,
. 487
Regent Terrace,
. 485
T,
Morningside Church,
487, 518
Reservoir, Castle Hill,
. 526
Telegraphs,
. 498
Morocco Land, .
. 480
Revenue and Expenditure
. 533
Telephonic Company,
. 498
Mortality of City, .
. 540
Riddle's Close, .
. 477
Theatres, . . .
. 499
Mound,
. 483
Rock Garden and Fernery
. 529
Theological Colleges,
. 514
Municipal Bodies,
. 532
Roman Catholic Churches
. 522
Tolbooth (Canongate),
. 479
Museum of Science and Ai
t, . 505
Roman Catholic Schools,
. 514
Trade and Industries,
635, 536
Music Hall,
. 499
Roman Eagle Hall, .
. 477
Trades' Maiden Hospital,
. 512
Ross Fountain, .
. 526
Tramways,
. 528
N.
Roxburgh Close,
. 477
Trinity College Church,
. 516
National Bank,
. 496
Royal Bank,
. 497
Tron Church, .
. 516
National Gallery,
. 507
Royal Circus, .
. 484
Nelson's Monument, .
. 501
Royal Crescent,
. 484
U.
Union Bank, .
United Presbyterian Chu
New Buildings,
. 481
Royal Exchange,
. 496
. 496
ches,
519, 539
. 503
Newspapers,
New Street,
. 538
. 479
Royal Infirmary,
Royal Institution,
. 523
. 506
New Town,
. 483
Royal Observatory,
. 507
University,
Nicolson Square,
. 482
Royal Terrace, .
. 485
Nicorson Street,
. 482
Rutland Square,
. 487
North Back of Canongate,
. 478
V.
North Bridge, ,
. 481
S.
Veterinary Colleges,
. 506
North British and Merc
mtile
St Andrew's Church,
. 517
Victoria Hall, .
. 514
Insurance Co. ,
. 497
St Andrew Square, .
. 483
Victoria Street,
. 432
Nor' Loch,
. 481
St Andrew Street, .
. 484
St Anthony's Chapel,
. 469
W.
0.
St Bernard's Crescent,
. 484
Warrender Park, .
. 529
Old Assembly Close,
. 477
St Cuthbert's Parish, 4
iO, 502, 517
Warriston Close,
. 477
Old Bank Close,
. 477
St David Street,
. 484
Waterloo Place,
. 485
OldTolbooth, .
. 477
St George's Church, .
. 517
Water Reservoir,
. 626
Original Ragged School,
. 478
St George's Free Churcli,
. 619
Water Works, .
. 625
Orphan Hospital,
. 511
St Giles' Church, .
. 515
Watson's (John) Hospital,
. 511
St Giles' Street,
. 481
Watt Institution and Sch
ool of
P.
St James Square,
. 484
Arts,
. 608
Parish Churches, .
515, 539
St John's Episcopal Churc
h, . 520
Waverley Bridge,
. 483
Parliament Square, ,
477, 494
St John Street,
. 479
Waverley Market,
. 483
Philosophical Institution,
. 508
St Margaret's Convent,
. . 487
Wellington's Monument,
. 501
Physicians' Hall,
. 506
St Mary's Cathedral,
. 520
Wesleyan Churches, .
. .521
Picardy Place, .
. 485
St Mary's Church, .
. 619
West Bow,
. 478
Pilrig Street,
. 485
St Mary Street,
. 479
West Church, .
. 617
Places of Amusement,
. 499
St Paul's Episcopal Churc
h, , 520
West Church Poorhouse,
. 625
Playhouse Close,
. 479
Salisbury Crags,
. 467
West Port,
. 482
Pleasance,
. 479
Scenery, ,
. 468
White Horse Close, .
. 479
Police,
. 532
School of Medicine, .
. 500
Whitehouse Loan,
. 487
Police Buildings,
. 494
Schools, Board,
. 512
Windsor Street,
. 485
Poorhouses,
524, 525
Schools, Classical, .
. 60S
Workhouses, .
. 524
Population of Burgh,
. 540
Sciennes, .
. 480
Working-men's Houses,
. 629
Post Ollice,
. 498
Scientific and Literary Ii
istitu-
Writers' Court,
. 477
Potterrow,
. 483
tions.
. 507
Presbytery of Edinburgh,
. 540
Scott Monument,
. 500
Y.
Press,
537, 538
Scott, Sir Walter, .
. 483, 484
York Place, .
. 485
648
EDINBURGHSHIRE
EDINBURGHSHIRE
Edinburghshire or Midlothian, a maritime county in
the eastern part of the southern division of Scotland,
is bounded N by the Firth of Forth ; E by Haddington,
Berwick, and Roxburgh shires ; S by Selkirk, Peebles,
and Lanark shires ; and W and NW liy Linlithgow-
shire. Its greatest length, from E to W, is 36 miles ,
its greatest breadth, from N W to SE, is 24 miles ; and its
area is estimated at 234,926 acres, or 367 sc^uare miles. Its
outline is somewhat irregular, Init forms approximately
the figure of a half-moon, with the convex side resting
on tilt; Forth and the horns stretching respectively to
the SE and SW. Its coast-line is neither rugged nor
bold, but stretches for about 12 miles along the southern
.shore of the Firth, for the most part in sandy or
shingly beach. There are several havens for fishing-
boats, and large and important harbours at Leith and
Granton.
The surface of this county is exceedingly diversified
with hill and dale, but on the whole gradually ascends
from the sea towards the interior till it reaches its cul-
minating point (2136 feet) in Blackhope Scar among the
Moorfoot Hills in the SE. The effect of this far from
regular upward incline is to produce scenery of a very
tolerably varied kind ; and though there is no part of
Edinburghshire that can be described as grand, yet
most parts are picturesque, and all are pleasant. There
are several of those wooded dens or ' cleuchs ' that are
almost peculiar to southern Scotland and northern
England. On the south-eastern boundary of Edin-
burghshire stretch the western slopes of the Lammer-
muirs ; further W, and occupying the S of the county
and extending into Peeblesshire, lie the Moorfoot Hills,
in a large triangular mass. In this group, almost
wholly pastoral, the summits are generally rounded,
often isolated, and nowhere linked into a continuous
chain. About 3 miles from their western limit rise the
Pentland Hills, the chief range in the county. These,
springing steeply and suddenly about 4 miles SSW of
Edinburgh, stretch 12 miles SSW into Peeblesshire,
with a breadth averaging 3 miles, but gradually in-
creasing towards the S. The chief summits, in order
from the N, are Castlelaw Hill (1595 feet), Bell's Hill
(1330), Black Hill (1628), Carnethy (1890), Scald Law
(1898), West Kip (1806), East Cairn Hill (1839), and
West Cairn Hill (1844). The various volcanic eminences
in the immediate neighbourhood of Edinburgh, which
add so much to the charm of the city, are specifically
noticed in our article on Edinburgh. Corstorphine
Hill, 3 miles W of the Castle rock, rises to 520 feet
above sea-level, and stretches curvingly for about 2
miles. The Craiglockhart, Blackford, and Braid (698
feet) Hills form points in a rough semicircular line
round the S of the city, none of them much more than
2 miles from it. The Carberry Hill ridge, on the NE
border, extends for nearly 6 miles from N to S, and
attains its highest point at 680 feet above sea-level.
The streams of Edinburghshire are all too small to
deserve the name of river ; but the deficiency in indi-
vidual size is made up for by the number of small
streams, which drain the county very thoroughly, and
for the most part fall into the Forth. The most easterly
is the Esk, formed by the junction of the North and
South Esks about 6 miles from Musselburgh, where it
debouches. The Water of Leith drains the NW side of
the Pentlands, and enters the Forth at Leith. The
Almond enters Edinburghshire from Linlithgowshire,
and, after forming the boundary between tliese two
counties for some miles, falls into the Firth at Cramond.
The Tyne, rising near the middle of the E border,
passes oif into Haddingtonshire after a course of 5 miles
northwards ; while the Gala, with its source in the
eastern Moorfoots, flows SSE into Roxburghshire. Some
of these streams, notably the North Esk and the Water
of Leith, afford water-})Ower for driving the numerous
paper-mills, whose produce is the chief manufacture of
the county. The natural lakes of Edinburghshire, with
the exception of Duddingston l^och at the base of
Arthur's Seat at Edinburgh, need not be separately
named ; there are large artificial reservoirs at Threip-
muir, Loganlee, Harelaw, Torduff, Clubbiedean, Glads-
muir, Rosobery, and Cobbinshaw. There are mineral
springs at St Bernard's in Edinburgh, and at Benning-
ton, Cramond, Corstorphine, Midcalder, Penicuik, and
St Catherine's.
The geology of Edinburghshire is most interesting,
but our space only admits of its salient features being
sketched. The county naturally divides itself into
three districts. The first, embracing the Moorfoot and
Lammermuir Hills in the SE, is a portion of the ' great
Lower Silurian tableland of the South of Scotland,' and
its rocks consist of greywacke, grit, and shale folded
into a constant succession of NE and SW waves. The
second is that of the Pentland and Braid Hills, where
the basement rocks are of Upper Silurian ago, consisting
of greywackcs, shales, and limestones, some of them
being highly fossiliferous. These are conformably over-
laid by the lowest members of the Lower Old Red Sand-
stone, while there rests on the upturned and denuded
edges of both an unconformable scries of porphyrites,
tuffs, sandstones, and conglomerates, also of Lower Old
Red age, pointing to upheaval, long continued denuda-
tion, and subsequent volcanic activity during that
period. The third district takes in the remainder of
the county, and, with the exception of a few later in-
trusions of trap, is floored with carboniferous rocks.
The Pentland and Braid Hills wedge this into two
basins. In the western one the Calciferous sandstones
alone occur. These yield the rich oil shales of Mid-
calder, the limestone of Raw Camps, and the building
stones of Granton, Craigleith, Hailes, and Redhall, and
it is on members of this series that the capital stands.
In the eastern basin, however, all the several members
of this important system as developed in Scotland are
represented, viz., — in ascending order the Calciferotis
Satidstone Series, including the Burdiehouse Limestone,
noted for its excellence, and the Straiten oil shales ; the
Carboniferous Limestone Series, locally known as the
'Edge coals,' containing numerous coal and ironstone
seams, as well as several workable limestone, oil shales,
and building stones, forming together the most impor-
tant portion of the Midlothian coalfield ; the barren
Millstone Grit and the true Goal Measures of Dalkeith,
Millerhill, and Dalhousie. This last series contains
several workable seams of coal and ironstone, and the
field gets the local name of the ' Flat Coals,' from the
low angles at which the beds lie, in contradistinction to
those of the Carboniferous Limestone Series. The vol-
canic rocks of Carboniferous age, the phenomena of gla-
ciation, and the ancient raised beaches are treated of in
the geological section of the article on Edinburgh city.
Coal seems to have been worked in Lasswadc parish
so early as the beginning of the 17th century ; and
since then the increased facilities of working and of
transport have fostered the industry to a high degree.
Parrot coal of good quality occurs in the rising-ground
S of Newbattle, and has been much used for the manu-
facture of coal-gas. In 1878 there were 19 collieries
at work, employing over 2000 hands ; and in that year
725,122 tons were raised in the county. There are,
besides, ironstone mines at Roslin, Gilmerton, and
Lasswade. In 1878 also 313,157 tons of oil shale and
44,659 tons of fire-clay were raised. Building stone is
abundant, and paving stones are also found. Lead ore
has been discovered at the head of the Nortli Esk, and
a copper mine at Currie was projected in 1083.
Edinburghshire includes some of the finest agricultural
land in the country, and the methods of farming, tlio
implements used, and the science of the farmers are
inferior to none. The fertile districts in the N and \V
sections of the shire are generally arable, and in a liigh
state of cultivation ; the S and SE sections, more par-
ticularly the latter, are, to a largo extent, pastoral.
Only about onc-eightli of the entire area is unprofitable.
In Juno 1881, 134,999 acres were under crops, bare fallow,
or grass. The soils of the low arable lands are much
diversified. Clay, sand, loam, and gravel are, in somo
cases, all to bo seen on the same farm— even in tlio same
field. It is dilUcult to detcnuiuo which predominates.
549
EDINBURGHSHIRE
Careful farming has done much to improve the poor
and mossy soil on the high-lying tracts ; but the range
of fertility between the best and the worst arable lands
is very great. Agricultural improvements on fairly
intelligent principles, or with fairly visible results,
began so late as about 1725 ; but since then, combined
etTorts by societies, and single efforts by proprietors,
have united to advance the agricultural interests of the
county. The use of sewage as manure was adopted
near Edinburgh tolerably early ; and the Craigentinny
meadows, separately noticed, are a signal instance of its
fertilising power. Areas at Lochend, at Dairy, and at
the Grange, all in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, are
hardly less productive ; and the total aggregate value of
the land thus treated with the Edinburgh sewage is
fully £6000 per annum. The country round Edin-
burgh is largely occupied by market gardens, whose
produce is chiefly potatoes, cabbages, turnips, and
strawberries ; in 1877 there were 865 acres under this
form of cultivation — an area greater than in any other
Scottish county. To orchards there were 94 acres, and
to coppices and plantations 10,320 acres, given up in
Edinburghshire. Perthshire and Lanarkshire alone
excel the metropolitan county in extent of orchard-
ground. The principal crops of the county, with their
average, are as follow : —
Crops.
1856.
1866.
1875. j 1876.
1877.
1880.
Wheat, . .
Barley, . .
Oats, . . .
Sown Grass,
Potatoes, .
Turnips, . .
11,623
10,123
23,181
6,668
14,517
6,241
4,205
22,866
26,907
6,358
13,629
5,240
12,212
20,809
33,139
6,476
13,022
4,456
11,982
21,311
31.869
6,930
13,343
4,966
11,811
22,221
31,116
7,063
12,987
4,866
11,095
22,323
29,390
7,590
11,889
Totals, .
66,017
80,206
90,898 j 89,891
90,164 1 87,053
In June 1881, 134,999 acres were divided as follow: —
com crops, 38,273 acres ; green crops, 21,534 acres ;
sown grasses, 31,470 acres; permanent pasture, 43,532
acres.
The tendency in Midlothian, in view of the low price
of gi'ain and the high price of cattle, is to turn attention
more and more from raising crops to raising cattle. But as
yet there is but little cattle-breeding in Edinburghshire.
In 1881 the county contained 18,'250 cattle ; 154,966
sheep ; 4160 horses used for agricultural purposes ; and
5390 pigs. In the vicinity of Edinburgh very large
dairies, with from 30 to 70 cows, are maintained.
The Slidlotliian farms vary much in size. In 1876
there were 477 farms of 50 acres and under ; 116 of be-
tween 50 and 100 acres ; 294 of between 100 and 300 ; 75
of between 300 and 500 ; and 50 of over 500 acres — mak-
ing 1012 in all. The rent per acre varies fully as much,
but increases in direct ratio to the proximity of the farm
to Edinburgh. The average rent of arable land in Mid-
lothian may be set down at from £2 to £3 per acre ; of
hill pasture at from 10s. to 15s. per acre. The fanns
are generally held on 19 years' lease.
Edinburghshire enjoys a climate that is on the whole
equable, and not severe. In the N, it is mild and dry ;
among the hills, colder and moister. Generally speak-
ing, the fruits of the ground ripen early, especially
garden-stuff and strawberries. The mean annual tem-
])erature has been set down at 47 "1°, which is the exact
figure for the capital. Observations at 13 stations give
32 "66 inches as the average annual rainfall in the county.
The range is between 23 "75 inches at Corstorphine (the
driest station in Scotland) and 45 '52 at Colzium.
Notwithstanding many and great natural advantages,
the metropolitan county has no very important manu-
factures. When those carried on in Edinburgh and
Leith and the immediate environments are subtracted,
there are but few left to represent the industrial activity
of the county proper. The pre-eminent manufacture is
tliat of paper, supported in great measure by the im-
portant publi-shing and printing businesses of the capital.
The turnout of paper in 1878 was 24,000 tons of all
kinds. Gunpowder is manufactured at Koslin ; bricks
550
EDINBURGHSHIRE
and tiles at Portobello, IMillerliill, Newbattle, Rosewell,
and Bonnyrigg ; candles at Dalkeith and Loanhead ;
leather at Dalkeith ; and there are iron-works at Dal-
keith, Westfield, Loanhead, Penicuik, and Millerhill.
Shale-mining with paraffin-oil working (chiefly near Mid-
calder), and coal-mining, employ many hands ; fishing
is the main occupation of the inhabitants of Newhaven,
Fisherrow, Musselburgh, and other coast villages ; while
Leith and Granton have a very largo shipping industry.
The assessed rental for 1880-81 of paper-mills in the
county was £12,700 (increase since 1870-71, £3295) ; of
other mills, £3917 (decrease, £335) ; of ' manufactories,'
£18,696 (increase, £6148). These figures exclude the
two city parishes.
The roads in Edinburghshire are numerous and good.
No fewer than nine chief roads diverge from the city
through the county, and these are connected with each
other by a network of cross-roads. The roads are main-
tained by assessment levied on the city and county.
The Union Canal extends from Edinburgh through the
western part of tlie county, and joins the Forth and
Clyde Canal at Falkirk. Though no longer used for
passenger traffic, it still affords means of transit for coal
and other minerals. The North British and Caledonian
Railway Companies' lines not only connect Edinburgh
with ail parts of the kingdom, but also provide very
good local communication within the county. A ferry
from Granton to Ijurntisland conveys much of the
traffic to the N of Scotland ; but this route will pro-
bably be largely superseded when the bridge over the
Forth at QueensfeiTy has been completed. The assess-
ment on railways \^nthin the county for 1880-81 was
£71,996 (increase since 1870-71, £6282) ; on private
railways, £600 (increase, £600).
Edinburgh is the only royal burgh in the county ;
Leith, Portobello, and Slusselburgh are municipal and
parliamentary burghs ; Bonnyrigg, Dalkeith, and Peni-
cuik are police burghs ; Canongate and Portsburgh were
formerly burghs of regalitj^, but have been incorporated
with Edinburgh. Among the chief villages in Edin-
burgh are (besides the above) — Balerno, Colinton, Cor-
storphine, Cramond, Duddingston, Eskbank, Fala, Gil-
merton, Gorebridge, Granton, Kirkuewton, Lasswade,
Loanhead, Midcalder, Newbattle, Newhaven, Ratho,
Roslin, Slateford, and Stow. According to the Miscel-
laneous Statistics of tlic United Kingdom (1879), there
were 16,945 landowners in the county, with a total
holding of 231,742 acres, and a total gross estimated
rental of £2,129,038. Of these 3 held between 10,000
and 20,000 acres, 47 between 1000 and 10,000 acres, and
15,909 less than 1 acre. The assessed rental in 1880-81
of lands in the county (including the two city parishes)
was £288,549 (increase since 1870-71, £15,039); of
houses, shops, etc., £193,911 (increase, £79,908). There
are many fine mansion-houses and gentlemen's seats in
the county, of which the chief are Dalkeith Palace,
Duddingston House, Newbattle Abbey, Dalhousie Castle,
Pinkie House, Dreghorn Castle, Hatton House, Bonally
Tower, and Craigcrook.
The county is governed by a lord-lieutenant, a vice-
lieutenant, 10 deputy-lieutenants, a sheritf, and 2
sheriff-substitutes. Besides these ex-officio justices of
the peace, there are 210 gentlemen in the commission
of the peace, of whom 137 have qualified. The police
force, exclusive of that for the burghs of Edinburgh and
Leith, amounted, in 1880, to 62 men under a chief-
constable. Besides the head-office in Edinburgh, there
are 38 police-stations in the county. The number of
persons tried at the instance of the police in 1880 was
2429 ; convicted, 2326 ; committed for trial, 46 ; not
dealt with, 421. The prison of Edinburgh serves as the
county jail. In 1881-82 the as.sessments were as Ibllow :
general county assessments, lid. ; police, li^d. ; regis-
tration of voters, ~}jd. ; pauper lunatics, Ifd. per £1.
The valued rent in" the county for 1674 was £15,921 ;
the new valuation for 1881-82 gives it at £592,923
(exclusive of railways and water-works, wliich, with the
exception of portions within burghs, were valued at
£116,392). The city of Ediubui'gh returns 2 members
EDINBUBGHSHIBE
to parliament ; the Leith Burghs (Leith, Portobello,
and Musselburgh), 1 ; and the rest of the county, 1.
The parliamentary constituency of the county proper in
1881-82 was 4018. Pop. (1801) 122,597, (1811) 148,607,
(1821) 191,514, (1831) 219,345, (1841) 225,454, (1851)
259,435, (1861) 273,997, (1871) 328,379, (1881)388,977,
of whom 183,669 were males and 205,308 females.
Houses (1881) 72,677 inhabited, 5493 uninhabited,
1006 building.
The county contains 32 quoad civilia parishes, and
parts of four others. Ecclesiastically it is di\-ided into
59 quoad sacra parishes, and parts of 4 others ; and
it includes also 5 chapelries. These are di\-ided among
the presbyteries of Edinburgh, Haddington, Linlithgow,
and Earlston ; and all, with the exception of a part of a
parish in Earlston presbytery, are included in the synod
of Lothian and Tweeddale. In 1876 the Church of
Scotland had 67 churches in the county ; the Free
Church of Scotland, 60; the, United Presbyterians, 47;
Episcopalians, 21 ; Congregationalists, 8 ; Roman Catho-
lics, 7 ; Baptists, 6 ; Evangelical Union, 5 ; Methodists,
3 ; Reformed Presbyterians, 1 ; United Original Seceders,
1 ; and other denominations, 10. In the year ending
Sept. 1880 the county had 198 schools (121 public),
which, with accommodation for 43,761 pupils, had
43,990 on the rolls, and an average attendance of
34,403. The , certificated teachers numbered 378,
assistant- teachers 37, and pupil-teachers 416.
The registration count}' gives off part of Kirkliston
parish to Linlithgow, but takes in parts from Linlithgow,
Selkirk, and Haddington shires, and had 388,649 in-
habitants in 1881. All the parishes are assessed for the
poor. The number of registered poor in the j'ear ending
14 May 1881 was 8129 ; and of casual poor, 4788. The
receipts for the poor in the same year were £96,607, and
the expenditure £88,861. In 1881 pauper lunatics num-
bered 808, their cost being £20,158. The percentage of
illegitimate births was 8'1 in 1871, 7 '2 in 1877, 7 '6 in
1879, and 7-3 in 1881.
The history of Edinburghshire cannot well be separ-
ated from the history of the larger district of the
LoTHiANS. The territory now known as Midlothian
was included in the district usually ascribed to the
Caledonian Otaleni or Otadeni and Gadeni. In Roman
times the tribe of Damnonii seems to have dwelt here ;
and the district was brought within the northern limit
of the Roman province in Britain by Agricola in 81 a.d.
Thence onwards the Lothians were the scene of many
struggles and wars for their possession ; and about the
beginning of the 7th century, when historians recognise
the four kingdoms of Dalriada, Strathclyde, Bemicia,
and the kingdom of the Picts, under tolerably definite
limits, Edinburghshire was the centre of what the latest
historian of early Scotland calls the ' debateable lands '
— a district in Avhich the boundaries of the four king-
doms approached each other, and which was sometimes
annexed to one of these kingdoms, sometimes to another.
Lodoneia or the Lothians was thus peopled by a mixed
race of Scots, Angles, and Picts ; but seems most often
to have been joined to Bernicia, with which it was
absorbed into the great northern earldom of Northum-
bria. But the kings of Scotia or Alban, who, about the
9th century, had established their rule from the Spey
to the Forth, succeeded, after many efforts, in bringing
this rich district also imder their sceptre. The final
scene was at the battle of Carham in 1018, in the reign
of Malcolm II. From that date an integral part of
political Scotland, practically without intermission, the
county was the scene of many battles and skirmishes
between the English and the "Scotch. In 1303 a small
native force defeated near Roslin a much larger army of
Southrons ; in 1334, the Boroughmuir, now a southern
suburb of Edinburgh, witnessed another victory of the
Scots .under Sir Alex. Ramsay over the English under
Count Guy. In 1385 the county was devastated by
Richard II. of England ; a century and a half later it
sulfered the resentment of Henry VIII. ; and the fields
of Pinkie (1547), Carberry Hill (1567), and Rullion
Green (1666), are all included within its limits.
EDINBURGHSHIRE
Central Lothian very probably was placed under the
administration of a sherilf, or under some similar ad-
ministration, as early as the epoch of the introduction
of the Scoto-Saxon laws. A sherifiilom over it can bo
traced in record from the reign of Malcolm IV. dowc to
the restoration of David II. ; but appears to have ex-
tended during that period over all tlie Lotliians. The
sheriffdom underwent successive limitations, at a num-
ber of periods, till it coincided with the present extent
of the county ; it also, for many ages, was abridged in
its authority by various jurisdictions witliin its bounds ;
and it likewise, for a considerable time, was hampered
in its administration by distribution into wards, each
superintended by a Serjeant. The last sheriff under the
old regime was the Earl of Lauderdale, who succeeded
his father as sheriff in 1744 ; and the first under the
present improved system was Charles Maitland, who
received his appointment in 1748. — A constable was
attached, from an early period, to Eilinburgh Castle ;
and appears to have, as early as 1278, exercised civil
jurisdiction. The provost of Edinburgh, from the year
1472, had the power of sheriff, coroner, and admiral,
^vithul Edinburgh royalty and its dependency of Leith.
The abbot of Holyrood acquired from Robert HI. a riglit
of regality over all the lands of the abbey, including the
barony of Broughton ; and, at the Reformation, he was
succeeded in his jurisdiction by the trustees of Heriot's
Hospital. The monks of Dimfermline obtained from
David I. a baronial jurisdiction over Inveresk manor,
including the town of Musselburgh ; and, at the Refor-
mation, were succeeded in their jurisdiction by Sir John
Maitland, who sold it in 1709 to the Duchess of Buc-
cleuch. The barony of Ratho, at Robert II. 's accession
to the crown, belonged to the royal Stewarts ; was then,
with their other estates, erected into a royal jurisdiction ;
went, in that capacity, to Prince James, the son of
Robert III. ; and, at the bisection of Lanarkshire into
the coimties of Lanarkshire and Renfrewshire, was dis-
joined from Edinburghshire and annexed to Renfrew-
shire. A right of regality over the lands of Dalkeith
was obtained by the Douglases, and passed to the
family of Buccleuch. The estates in Edinburghshire
belonging to the see of St Andrews were erected into a
regality, and placed imder the control of a bailie ap-
pointed by the archbishop. The lands of Duddingston,
of Prestoahall, of Carrington, and of Carberry also were
regalities ; and the first was administered by a bailie,
the second by the Duke of Gordon, the third by Lord
Dalmeny, the fourth by Sir Robert Dickson. These
several jurisdictions comprised a large proportion of the
county's territory, and a stiU longer one of the county's
population ; and they must, in the aggregate, have
greatly embarrassed the paramount or comprehensive
civil administration ; but all were abolished in 1747.
A justiciary of Lothian also was appointed in the time
of Malcolm IV. , exercised a power superior to that of
the sherilf, and had successors wielding that superior
power, or entitled to wield it, till the time when the
baronial jurisdictions became extinct. The power of
the Archbishop of St Andrews also, being both baronial
over his own estates and ecclesiastical over the entire
county, was often, in the Romish times, practically para-
mount to that of the sheriff; and even after the Refonna-
tion, when the archiepiscopal prerogatives were wholly
or mainly abolished, it continued for a time to throw
impediments in the way of the sheriff's movements.
There are Caledonian stone circles in Kirkncwton
parish and at Heriot-town-hill ; and there are cainis
and tumuli at many places in the county. Pictisli forts
may probably have preceded the Castles of Edinburgli
and Roslin ; and it is very possible that the caves at
Hawthornden House were eitlier formed or enlarged by
the Picts also. Traces of Roman occui)ation are still to
be discerned ; and Roman coins, weapons, etc., liavo
been found in various parts. There are several old
castles, some forming most picturesi|Ue ruins. In many
cases comparatively modem erections have 8U|>erseded
the older buildings. Among the more interesting old
castles are those at Roslin, Catcune, Borthwick, Crichton,
551
EDINCHIP HOUSE
and Craigmillar. Extensive monastic establishments
have left their ruins at Hol5'rood, Newbattle, and
Temple — the last, as its name suggests, having been an
important house of the Knights Templars. There are
vestiges of an ancient hospital on Soutra Hill.
There is no good history of Edinburghshire, but
reference may be made to The County of Edinburgh ;
its Geology, Agriculture, and Meteorology, by Mr
Ralph Richardson (1878), and The Geology of Edinburgh
and its Neighbourhood, by Prof. Geikie (1879). Both
are merely pamphlets ; the latter refers to other and
larger authorities. Comp. also Mr Farrall ' On the
Agriculture of Edinburghshire,' in Trans. Uighl. and
Ag. Sac. (1877).
Edinchip House. See Balquhidder.
Edingight, a mansion in Grange parish, Banffshire,
at the W skirt of Knock Hill (1409 feet), 7 mUes NE of
Keith, and 4 N by E of Grange station. It is the scat
of Sir Johnlnnes ofBALVENiE, twelfth Bart, since 1628
(b. 1840 ; sue. 1878), whose estate is valued at £1810,
5s. 6d. per annum.
Edinglassie, an estate, with an old mansion, in
Strathdon parish, Aberdeenshire. It is included in the
Castle-Newe property.
Edington, a hamlet and an ancient fortalice in Chirn-
side parish, Berwickshire, 2^ miles E of Chirnside vil-
lage. Only the S side of the fortalice continues standing.
Edinkillie, a hamlet and a parish in the W of Elgin-
shire. The hamlet is on the small river Divie, close to
the point where the Highland railway, which intersects
the parish for a distance of 10 miles, crosses the stream
on a lofty seven-arched viaduct. It is about a mile from
Duniphail station, which lies by rail 8^ miles S by W of
Forres, 20| SW of Elgin, 33 ESE of Inverness, and 157^
N by W of Edinburgh. There is a post office under Forres.
The parish is bounded N by Dyke and Moy, NE by
Ratford, E by Dallas, SE by Knockando, S by Cromdale,
and W by Ardclach in Nairnshire. Its greatest length,
from N to S, from a point on the Findhorn near Mains
of Dalvey to Lochindorb, is 13J miles ; its breadth, from
E to W, varies considerably, attaining 7 miles at the
widest part ; and its area is 32,904^ acres, of which 437f
are water. The S and SE parts are mostly moorland
and hill pasture, the N and NW woodland and arable.
Between 3000 and 4000 acres are in tillage, between
4000 and 5000 are imder wood, and the remainder is
rough hill pasture or heath. The soil of the arable
districts consists of a brown or black loam overlying
clay, sand, or gravel, and in some places the loam becomes
very light and sandy. In the upper part the moss lies
generally on clay or white sand. The surface is very
irregular. At the extreme N end of the parish the
height of the ground above sea-level is a little over 100
feet, and from that point it rises in rugged undulations
till in the S and E it reaches an average height of from
900 to 1000 feet, and rises in some places still higher,
the principal elevations being Romach Hill (1012 feet),
Hill of Tomechole (1129), Sliabh Bainneach (1453),
and Knock of Braemoray, the highest point (1493). The
last summit commands a very extensive view. The
upper part of the parish to the S is drained by the
streams Divie and Dorbock and the smaller streams
that flow into them. The Divie rises in Cromdale to
the S of Edinkillie, and flows northward to about the
middle of the parish, where, half a mile below the
church, it is joined by the Dorbock, which forms the
outlet for the waters of Lochindorb. From the point of
junction the united streams, still retaining the name of
the Divie, continue in a northern course for 2J miles by
Duniphail and Relugas, and enter the Findhorn a short
distance N of Relugas. The land immediately to the S
of the point where the streams unite is a small detached
l)ortion of Nairnshire, and belongs to the parish of
Ardclach. Tlie scenery along the greater part of the
courses of both streams is very picturesque. The river
Findhorn flows through the j)arish for 7 miles of its
course. Entering near the middle of the western side,
it first forms for a mile the western boundary of Edin-
killie, then passes across in a northerlv direction, and
552
EDNAM
forms thereafter the eastern boundary for 3 miles at the
N end of the iiarish. The course of the river is marked
by fine rock and wood scenery, the vales of Logic, Sluie,
and St John being particularly pretty. The greater
portion of the district AV of the Findhorn is covered
with part of the gi-eat forest of Darxaway. The man-
sions— Duniphail, Relugas, and Logic — are separately
noticed, as also are the chief antiquities of the parish —
Duniphail Castle and Relugas Doune. The principal
landowner is the Earl of Moray. Three other proprietors
hold each an annual value of £500 or upwards, and
1 holds between £500 and £100. The parish is in
the presbytery of Forres and synod of Moray ; the
minister's income is £222. The parish church was
erected in 1741, and repaired in 1813 ; it contains 500
sittings. There is a Free church. The schools of
Duniphail, Half Davoch, Conicavel, Logie, and Relugas,
with respective accommodation for 100, 50, 56, 116, and
51 children, had (1880) an average attendance of 44.,
22, 22, 107, and 43, and grants of £44, 7s., £33, 4s.,
£23, 6s., £106, 19s. 6d., and £31, Is. 6d. Valuation
(1881) £5979, 17s. Pop. (1801) 1223, (1831) 1300,
(1861) 1303, (1871) 1286, (1881) 1175.— Ord. Sur., shs.
84, 85, 1876-77.
Edinshall. See Cockburnlaw and the Antiquary
for March 1882.
Edleston. See Eddleston.
Edmonston Castle. See Biggak.
Edmondstone House, a mansion, with finely wooded
grounds, in Newton parish, Edinburghshire, 3i miles
SE of Edinburgh. The estate belonged, from 1248 and
earlier, to the family of Edmonstone, who are commonly
said to have come to Scotland in 1067 with St Margaret,
the queen of Malcolm Ceannmor, but who probably were
a branch of the powerful race of Seton. (See DuN-
treath. ) From them it passed, about the beginning of
the 17th century, to the Raits ; and from them, by mar-
riage, in 1671, to John Wauchope (1633-1709), a cadet
of the Niddry Wauchopes, who, in 1672, on becoming a
lord of session, assumed the title of Lord Edmonstone.
Its present holder, Sir John Don-Waucliope of Newton.
eighth Bart, since 1667 (b. 1816 ; sue. 1862), owms 1350
acres in the shire, valued at £6310 per annum, including
£267 for minerals. A hamlet of Edmonstone, with a
public school, stands a little to the E.
Ednam (12th century Ednalmm, 'village on the
Eden '), a village and a parish of N Roxburghshire.
The village stands, 190 feet above sea-level, on the left
bank of Eden Water, 2| miles NNE of its station and
post-town, Kelso. A pretty little place, of hoar
antiquity, burned by the English in 1558, it now is the
seat of a largish brewery, and retains, as outhouse of a
farmsteading, the former manse (and later village
school) in which James Thomson was born, 11 Sept.
1700. His father, nine or ten weeks afterwards, was
transferred to the ministry of Southdean ; but a minia-
ture of the poet, presented to the bygone Ednam Club
by the eleventh Earl of Buchan, is preserved in the
present manse ; and in 1820 an obelisk, 52 feet high,
was erected to his memory on a rising-ground 1 mile to
the S of the village. James Cook, the father of the
circumnavigator, has also been claimed for a native.
The parish is bounded N and NE by Eccles in
Berwickshire, SE by Sprouston, S and SW by Kelso, W
by Nenthorn in Berwickshire, and NW by Stichill.
Its utmost length, from E by N to W by S, is 3| miles ;
its utmost breadth, from N to S, is 3^ miles ; and its
area is 3919if acres, of which 70^ are water. The Tweed
sweeps 3 miles north-eastward along all the Sprouston
border ; and Eden Water winds 4^ miles eastward to it,
along the boundary with Nenthorn and through the
interior. In the furthest E the surface sinks along the
Tweed to 95 feet above sea-level, thence rising with
gentle undulation to 236 feet near Ferneyhill, 282 near
Cliftonhill, 278 near Kaimflat, and 265 near Harper-
town. Sandstone is the prevailing rock, and the soils
are of four kinds, in pretty eijual proportions — loam,
incumbent on gravel ; clay and light gravel, both on
a porous bottom ; and a light humus on a moorish
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