ORDNANCE
GAZETTEER OF SCOTLAND
A SURVEY OF SCOTTISH TOPOGRAPHY,
Statistical, ^iograjial, anb istorical.
FRANCIS H^GKOOME.
VOLUME III
LONDON:
WILLIAM MACKENZIE, 69 LUDGATE HILL, E.C.;
EDINBURGH AND GLASGOW.
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ORDNANCE GAZETTEER
SCOTLAND.
FAD (Gael, fada, 'long'), a narrow loch on the
mutual border of Rothcsay and Kingarth parishes,
Isle of Bute. Lying 48 feet above sea-level, it
extends 2J miles north-north-eastward, varies in
width between 1 and 2J furlongs, and sends off a stream
7 furlongs north-by-eastward to Rothesay Bay at Rothe-
say town. It presents in its scenery a miniature of some
of the most admired lakes in the Highlands ; contains
perch, pike, and trout ; and has, on its western shore,
2 miles SSW of Rothesay, a neat two-story house, Wood-
end or Kean's Cottage, built in 1827 by the tragedian
Edmund Kean (1787-1833), and afterwards occupied
by Sheridan Knowles (1784-1862). Ord. Sur., sh. 29,
1873.
Fad, a lake near the centre of Colonsay island, Jura
parish, Argyllshire.
Fad, a lake in Portree parish, Isle of Skye, Inverness-
shire, 3i miles NNE of Portree town. Measuring f by
J mile, it teems with trout, and sends off a streamlet 5
furlongs north-north-eastward to Loch Leathan (lx$
mile), which streamlet, issuing from that loch, proceeds
4< mile north-eastward to the cliffs, and there descends
to the sea in a clear leap of 300 feet.
Fad. See INCH FAD.
Fada. See ELLAN-FADA.
Fada-Lochan, a lake of Gairloch parish, NW Ross-
shire. Lying 1000 feet above sea-level, and 928 acres in
area, it has an utmost length and width of 3J miles and
5 furlongs. Two streams flow from it one 4J miles
south-south-westward to Loch Maree, near its head ; the
other 2| miles north-westward to Fionn Loch. Ord.
Sur.,sh. 92, 1881.
Faichfield, an estate, with an old mansion, in Long-
side parish, Aberdeenshire, 4 miles W of Peterhead, and
2g ESE of Longside station.
Faifley. See DUNTOCHER.
Fail, a rivulet and the site of a monastery in Tarbol-
ton parish, Ayrshire. The Water of Fail, rising in
Craigie parish, winds 7J miles south-eastward, till below
COILSFIELD or Montgomerie it falls into the river Ayr
at Failford, 2j miles WSW of Mauchline. The monas-
tery, St Mary's, stood on the right bank of the rivulet,
li mile NNW of Tarbolton town, and, founded in
1252 by Andrew Bruce for Red or Trinity friars, was
cast down by the lords of council in 1561, when its
lands fell to the Wallace family. One old satirical
poem says of its friars, that ' they never wanted gear
enough as long as their neighbours' lasted ; ' and
' The friars of Fail drank berry-brown ale,
The best that ever was tasted ;
The monks of Melrose made gude kail,
On Fridays, when they fasted.'
Failford. See FAIL.
Fairay. See PHARAY.
Fairburn Tower, a ruined stronghold of the Mao-
kcnzies in Urray parish, Ross-shire, near the left bank
of the Orrin, and 2} miles S by E of Contin.
Fairfolk, a tumulus near the summit of Carmyllie Hill,
in Carmyllie parish, Forfarshire. Popular superstition
long regarded it as a favourite haunt of fairies. Part of
it was, many years ago, thrown down, and found
to contain a small brass ring and some fragments of
1 bones.
I Fairholm, an estate, with a mansion, in the SE of
Hamilton parish, Lanarkshire, on the left bank of
Avon Water, If mile W of Larkhall.
Fairies' Dyke. See CUMBRAE, GREAT.
Fair Isle (Scand./arr, 'a sheep'), an island of Dunross-
ness parish, Shetland, 29 miles SSW of Sumburgh Head,
and nearly midway between Shetland and Orkney.
It measures 3 miles in length, and nearly 2 in
breadth ; is inaccessible except at one point on the
SE ; and rises into three lofty promontories. One of
these, the Sheep Craig, is nearly insulated, has a conical
shape, and rises to the height of 480 feet. The upper
grounds are mostly covered with excellent sheep pasture,
, and the lower are fairly fertile, but the island does not
I raise grain enough for its inhabitants. These, who
dwell chiefly in the middle vale, are engaged the men
. in fishing, and the women in hosiery. The art of knit-
ting woollen articles of various colours and curious pat-
terns is said to have been taught the islanders by the
i 200 Spaniards who escaped from the wreck at Strom-
j ceiler Creek of the flagship of the Duke de Medina
i Sidonia, the admiral of the Spanish Armada, when re-
I treating in 1588 before the English squadron. In 1868
a German emigrant ship went full sail into Sheltie Cave ;
but this time happily no lives were lost. Canada has
from time to time received a good deal of the surplus
population, and in 1874 there was serious talk of an
emigration en masse to New Zealand. There are two
lighthouses on the island the one on the SW end, show-
ing four white flashes in quick succession, with intervals
of half a minute between the groups, visible 16 nautical
miles; the other, on the Skroo, at the NE end, showing
two flashes in quick succession every 30 seconds, visible
23 nautical miles. In 1893 a fog-signal was established
at each station. There are an Established mission
church, a post office under Lerwick, with money order
and savings bank departments, and a public school.
Pop. (1881) 2-14, (1891) 223.
Fairlaw, an estate, with a mansion, in Coldingham
parish, Berwickshire, 2 miles WSW of Reston station.
Fairley or Farland Head. See KILBRIDE, WEST.
Fairlie, a coast village and a quoad sacra parish in
the S of Largs parish, NW Ayrshire. Sheltered east-
ward by uplands that rise to a height of 1331 feet, the
village is charmingly seated on the Firth of Clyde, Ig
mile E of Great Cumbrae by water, 2j miles S by E of
Largs by road, and 4J N of West Kilbride by an exten-
sion of the Glasgow and South-Western railway, opened
on 1 June 1880, and traversing at the back of the
ho figure from the 14th to the 18th century. Eliza
Halket, Lady Wardlaw (1677-1727), laid in thi
Dundonald parish, Ayr-
SW of
village one of the longest tunnels in the S of Scotland.
A century ago it was only a tiny fishing hamlet, but
now it has several handsome villas, an Established
church (1833; 300 sittings), a Free church, a public
school, 2 inns, a post office, with money order, savings
bank, and telegraph departments, a public hall, presented
by Mr Charles S. Parker in 1892, 2 railway stations, of
which that at the pier is a fine erection of 1882, a steam-
boat pier (1882), and a yacht building-yard, which,
dating from 1812, has turned out some of the finest
clippers afloat. It was here that the Industry, the oldest
steamboat in existence, and now lying in Bowling har-
bour, was built in 1814. KELBURNE CASTLE stands 1J
mile to the N; and at the village itself is Fairlie House,
the seat of Charles Stuart Parker, Esq. M.P. for Perth-
shire from 1868 to 1874, and for Perth from 1878 to 1892.
Fairlie Burn, rising on Fairlie Moor (1100 feet), and
hurrying 2 miles westward to the Firth along the bound-
ary between Largs and West Kilbride, threads in its
lower course a lovely glen. Here, on a rounded knoll,
above a waterfall, stands the ruins of Fairlie Castle, a
square tower, built in 1521, the seat of Fail-lies of that
ill
beth
tower the scene of her fine ballad Hardyknute. Th
quoad sacra parish is in the presbytery of Greenoek and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Pop. of village (1871) 294,
(1881) 672, (1891) 691; of q. s. parish (1871) 313, (1881)
771, (1891) 744. Ord. Sur., sh. 21, 1870. See pp.
82-85 of Wemyss Bay (Paisley, 1879).
Fairlie or Fairley, a mansion in Newhills parish,
Aberdeenshire, 5 miles W by N of Aberdeen.
Fairlie House, a mansion in Dundonald pari
shire, on the left bank of the Irvine, 1 mile
Gatehead station, and 3J miles WSW of Kilmarnock.
Fairport. See ARBROATH.
Fairway, a sunken rock of Dunfermline parish, in the
Firth of Forth S of the E end of Long Craigs. It is
covered, at lowest stream ebb, by 5^ or 6 feet of water.
Fairy-Bridge, a place in Duiriuish parish, Isle of
Skye, Inverness-shire, 3 miles from Dunvegan.
Fairy-Knowe, an eminence in Lecropt parish, Perth-
shire, near Sunnylaw farm, in the vicinity of Bridge of
Allan. It is crowned with an ancient Caledonian camp.
Fala and Soutra, a united parish of Edinburgh and
(until 1891) Haddington shires, containing in its Fala
portion the village of Fala, whose post oilice is Black-
shiels, and which stands 34 miles SE of Pathhead, 15J
SE of Edinburgh, and 3J ENE of Tynehead station.
The parish, containing also part of the hamlet of Fala
Dam, f mile to the NW, is bounded NE by Humbie,
SE by Channelkirk in Berwickshire, S by Stow, SW by
Heriot, W and NW by Criehton. Previous to 1891 it
was bounded on the W by detached portions of the
parishi's of Stow, Borthwick, Cranston, and Humbie in
Haddingtonshirc. But the Boundary Commissioners in
that year transferred the first two to Heriot parish, the
next to Criehton, and the Blackshiels detached portion
of Humbie to Fala and Soutra. They at the same time
altered the county boundaries so as to place the united
parish of Fala and Soutra wholly in the county of Edin-
burgh. Its utmost length, from NNE to SSW, is
5 miles; its breadth, from WNW to ESE, varies between
1 mile and 5 miles; and its area is 651 6 J acres, of which
3126i belonged to the Edinburghshire or Fala portion,
2940} to the Haddingtonshire or Soutra portion, and
450 to the Humbie detached portion. By Brothershiels
Burn, Dean Burn, and East Water, Fala is parted from
Soutra; and ARMIT Water runs south-south-westward
towards the Gala along most of the Channelkirk border.
In the extreme N the surface declines to 600 feet above
sea-level, thence rising to 819 near Fala village, 1209
at Soutra Hill, and 1250 at Upper Brotherstone. The
whole is upland then; but the northern section, com-
prising somewhat less than half of the entire area, is
gently undulating, fertile, and well cultivated, whilst
the southern mainly consists of the westernmost part of
the Lammermuirs, and, with the exception of a few
arable patches, is all of it one great sheep-walk. The
rocks are mainly Silurian; and the soil in general is thin
and gravelly. A large moss, Fala Flow, 1J mile SSW
of the village, has been considerably reduced by draining
since 1842, but still supplies great quantities of peat.
Peel towers stood at Fala Hall and Gilston; but the chief
antiquity, an ancient hospice, is separately noticed under
SOUTRA. A mansion is Woodcot, 1J mile E by S of the
village. This parish is in the presbytery of Dalkeith
and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale; the living is worth
173. The church, at the village, is a plain old build-
ing, containing 250 sittings. There is also a U.P.
church (1787 ; 250 sittings); and a public school, with
accommodation for 80 children, has an average attend-
ance of about 60, and a grant of nearly 60. Pop. (1891)
285, of whom 80 were in Soutra. Ord. Sur., shs. 33, 25,
1863-65. See Rev. J. Hunter's Fala and Soutra (1892).
Fala Dam, See CRIOHTON and FALA AND SOUTRA.
Faldonside, an estate, with a mansion, previous to
1891 in the Roxburghshire portion of Galashiels parish,
4J miles W by S of Melrose. The parish of Galashiela
was placed by the Boundary Commissioners in the above
year wholly in Selkirkshire.
Falfield, an estate, with a mansion, in Kilconquhar
parish, Fife, 3| miles ESE of Ceres.
Falkirk, a town and parish of SE Stirlingshire. A
parliamentary burgh, a seat of considerable trade and
industry, and the virtual capital of the south-eastern
portion of the county, the town stands near the southern
bank of the Forth and Clyde canal, and 3J miles from
the right shore of the Firth of Forth. By road it is 1J
mile SSE of Can-on Iron-works, and 7J miles ENE of
Linlithgow; whilst from two North British stations
Grahamston, on the Polmont and Larbert loop-line
(1852), at the town, and Falkirk, on the Edinburgh
and Glasgow section (1842), j mile SSW it is 25J miles
W by N of Edinburgh, 3 SW of Grangemouth, 11 SSE
of Stirling, and 21j EN E of Glasgow. The site is partly
a gentle hill-side, partly low level ground on the southern
skirt of the Carse of Forth, and commands magnificent
views of the Ochils, the Denny and Campsie Hills, and
the Grampian Mountains. The burgh consists of Falkirk
proper, which lies wholly S of the Edinburgh and Stir-
ling railway; Grahamston, between the railway and the
Forth and Clyde canal; and Bainsford, N of the canal.
The town steeple, in the market-place, rebuilt in 1813
on the site of a tower of 1697, is 146 feet high, and con-
tains a clock and two bells; immediately W of it is a
stone equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, erected
by public subscription in 1854. The county buildings
and prison (1866-69) are Scottish Baronial in style, as are
also the more recently built burgh buildings (1876-77),
with a mansard-roofed SE tower, 60 feet high, a spacious
court-hall, and a council-room. The prison, since 1878,
has merely served as a place of imprisonment for terms
of not more than 14 days. The town-hall, Italian in
style, and seated for upwards of 1600 persons, is the corn
exchange of 1859, reconstructed in 1878 at a cost of over
5000. A new corn exchange was built in 1878. Italian,
too, is the Science and Art School, which, opened by
the Earl of Rosebery in 1878, has a large hall and five
smaller ones, among them a chemical laboratory. Other
noteworthy edifices are the National Bank (1863), the
Young Men's Christian Institute (1880), and the Catho-
lic Institute (1881).
The cruciform parish church, said to have been founded
by MalcolmCeannmor(1057-93), and to have been granted
in 1166 by the Bishop of St Andrews to Holyrood Abbey,
was razed to the ground in 1810, when two ' most inter-
esting ' inscriptions were found in the debris inscrip-
tions whose faulty Latinity and faultier chronology
should at once have stamped them for palpable forgeries.
The present church of 1811 is a plain galleried edifice,
ith stained-glass windows; in 1892 it was restored, and
had an organ placed in it, at a total cost of about BOOO.
The ancient steeple of its predecessor, 130 feet high, serves
for its vestibule, and contains a marble monument to the
Rev. John Brown Paterson (1804-35), with four liie-size
effigies believed to be those of the earliest feudal lords of
Callendar, and transferred from the old church to their
present position in 1852. There are, besides, Grahams-
ton quoad sacra church, Falkirk and Bainsford Free
churches, West, East, and Graham's Road U.P.
churches, Evangelical Union, Congregationalist, Metho-
dist, and Baptist chapels, Episcopal Christ Church,
and Roman Catholic St Francis Xavier's. Of these,
Grahamston quoad sacra church (1874-75; 800 sittings)
is an Early French Gothic edifice, whose high-pitched
front gable is flanked by two steeples, 120 and 62 feet
high; Graham's Road U.P. church (1878-79; 600 sit-
tings) is a striking example of Gothic, with square
tower and octagonal spire, 110 feet high; and Gothic
also are Bainsford Free church (1879 ; 800 sittings),
Christ Church (1864; 200 sittings), and St Francis
(1843; 600 sittings).
Since the passing of the Education Act of 1872, much
has been done in the burgh in behalf of education.
The five public schools under the burgh board High,
Central, Northern, Bainsford, and Comely Park with
respective accommodation for 261, 384, 1141, 620, and
901 children, have an average attendance of about 250,
400, 950, 400, and 520, and grants amounting to over
250, 390, 920, 400, and 530. A handsome
Roman Catholic school, accommodating 288 children,
was opened in 1881; and there is also a Ragged and In-
dustrial school (1857). Falkirk Academy, called also
the High School, is now under the School Board, and
is divided into two schools the senior department in
Park Street, and the junior department in Cockburn
Street, formerly the Southern public. There are two
public parks, the Prince's and the Victoria parks, the
latter of which was opened in 1895.
Falkirk has a new post office (1893), with money order,
savings bank, insurance, and telegraph departments,
branches of the Bank of Scotland and the Clydesdale,
Commercial, National, and Royal Banks, a National
Security Savings Bank (1845), ' Dollar ' Free Library,
a cottage hospital, a parochial board, with offices in
Vicar Street, a gaswork, the Gaff trust, several hotels,
a cemetery; assembly, masonic, Oddfellows', and twoother
halls; a reading room and library, and two newspapers
-the Wednesday and Saturday Liberal Falkirk Herald
(1846) and the Saturday Independent Falkirk Mail.
The water supply is controlled by the Falkirk and
Larbert Water Trust, new waterworks, supplying a
million gallons a day, having been constructed in
1885-86 at a cost of 70,000. Thursday is market-
day ; and cattle markets are held on the last Thurs-
day of January, the first Thursday of March, and
the Thursday before the third Friday of April, cattle
and horse markets on the third Thursday of May and
the second Thursday of July, and hiring fairs on the
first Thursday of April and the last Thursday of October.
The famous Falkirk Trysts on Stenhousemuir, 3 miles
to the NNW, are held, for cattle and horses, on the
second Tuesday of August, September, and October;
for sheep, on the Monday before the September and
October Trysts. Transferred hither from CRIKFF about
1770, these Trysts are among the largest cattle markets
in the kingdom. The town conducts an extensive
retail trade, and serves as the centre to a busy and
populous district. In or close to it are Aitken's large
and long-established brewery, a distillery, chemical and
dynamite works, fire-brick and tile-yards, and a leather
factory; but iron-founding is the staple industry.* The
Falkirk Iron-works, started in 1819 by a colony of work-
men from CAKRON, came to its present proprietors, the
Messrs Kennard, in 1848, and now is second only to
Can-on itself. The buildings cover 8 acres ; and the
employes, about 1600, turn out weekly several hundred
tons of castings stoves, grates, viaduct girders, garden
seats, verandahs, etc. Here, during the Crimean War,
16,000 tons of shot and shell were manufactured. Other
works, with the date of their establishment, are Abbot's
Foundry (1856), Burnbank Foundry (1860), Gowanbank
Iron-works (1864), Grahamston Iron-works (1862),
Camelon Iron Co. (1872), Parkhouse Iron Co. (1875),
* So long ngo as 1695 we find the Darien Company contracting
for Faikirk smith ana cutlery work .
Seal of Falkirk.
FALKIEK
Port Downie (1875), Forth and Clyde Iron-works (1876),
Springfield Iron-works (1876), Etna Foundry (1877),
aud Callendar Iron Co. (1877). These give employment
to several thousand workpeople.
The town was made a burgh of barony in 1600, and a
burgh of regality in 1646, its affairs being managed till
1859 by a body of
28 'stint -masters, 1
who by a rude man-
ner of guessing at
the 'means and sub-
stance' of the rate-
payers assessed ac-
cordingly. Now
the burgh since
July 1882 divided
into four wards
is governed by a
provost, 3 bailies,
a treasurer, a town-
clerk, and 7 coun-
cillors, who also are
commissioners of
police under the
Falkirk Police and Improvement Act of 1859. With
Airdrie, Hamilton, Lanark, and Linlithgow, it sends
one member to parliament, Falkirk being the returning
burgh. The corporation revenue was 10,618 in 1896,
aud the municipal constituency numbered 2470 in the
same year, when the annual value of real property
amounted to 65,549. The parliamentary constituency
in that year numbered 2015. Pop. (1841) 8209, (1851)
8752, (1861) 9030, (1871) 9547, (1881) 13,170, (1891)
17,312, of whom 8980 were males, and 8322 females.
Houses (1891) inhabited 3374, building 30, vacant 40.
Pop. with suburbs (1881) 15,599, (1891) 19,769.
Falkirk in Latin is termed Varia Capella, and still
is known to Highlanders as Eaglaisbreac. Both mean
'the speckled church,' or 'the church of the mixed
people;' and Falkirk, or rather Fawkirk, is the Saxon
equivalent for the same, being compounded of Anglo-
Saxon jah, 'of various colours,' and dree, 'kirk or
church.' ANTONINUS WALL passed just to the S, and
various Roman relics have from time to time been found.
St Modan, fellow-worker with St Ronan, on a mission
connected with the Romish party, appears to have been
here about the year 717; and in 1080, in revenge for
Malcolm Ceannmor's devastation of Northumberland,
William the Conqueror sent his son Robert to Scot-
land, ' who, having gone as far as Ec/cjlesbreth, returned
without accomplishing anything.' Prior to Sauchie-
burn (1488) the discontented nobles occupied Falkirk,
whose old church witnessed a solemn subscription of
the League and Covenant in 1643, and which two
years later was decimated by the plague. These are
the leading events in Falkirk 's history, besides the two
battles and passing visits from Robert Burns (25 Aug.
1787), from Wordsworth and his sister Dorothy (14
Sept. 1803), and from the Queen and Prince Consort
(13 Sept. 1843). 'Like the bairns o' Fa'kirk, they'll
end ere they mend,' says a popular by -word, but
Falkirk has produced one most illustrious ' bairn ' in
Admiral Sir Charles Napier (1786-1860), who was born
at Merchiston Hall. Another native was Henry Belfrage,
D.D. (1774-1835), an eminent Secession minister; whilst
residentswere William Symington (1760-1831), a claimant
to the invention of steam navigation, and James Wilson,
D.D., author of a History of Egypt, and minister of
Falkirk from 1794 to his death in 1829.
Of the two battles of Falkirk, the first was fought on
22 July 1298 between Scottish and English armies, led
by Sir William Wallace, then Guardian of the kingdom,
and Edward I. of England. The invading host is said
by the English chroniclers of the day to have numbered
7500 mounted men-at-arms (3000 of them clad in coats
of mail) and 80,000 loot a force before which Wallace's
poor army, less than a third of the enemy's, was tain to
retreat, leaving Edward a desert to tread where neither
was there food to eat nor man to direct him on the way.
FALKIRK
The plan bade fair to succeed, but treachery revealed the
whereabouts of "Wallace, and Edward at once advanced
from Kirkliston to Linlithgow, so eager to bring the
matter to an issue that not even the breaking of two of
his ribs by a kick from a horse could make him defer
the fight. For Wallace there was no alternative. ' In
the battle of Stirling,' says Dr Hill Burton, 'the great
point made was the selection of the ground; in this he
showed even more of the tactician in the disposal of his
troops where they were compelled to fight. It is a
strong testimony to skill in the ordering of an army
that it should be not only distinct, but hold a shape
of which we can estimate the merit by knowing how
valuable it is in modern warfare. The English chronicler
describes the marshalling of the Scots army with such
clearness that a picture or diagram would not have
improved it. Taking up a slightly inclined plane, Wallace
drew up his small body of 1000 mounted cavaliers
in the rear, and distributed the footmen into circular
clumps. In each circle the men knelt down those in
the outer rim at least and held their lances obliquely
erect; within the circle of lancers were the bowmen.
The arrangement, save that it was circular instead of
rectangular, was precisely the same as the "square to
receive cavalry " which has baffled and beaten back so
many a brilliant army in later days. It seemed at first
as if Wallace's circles were to have a similar history.
The first efforts against them were ineffectual, and the
horsemen seemed shy of charging the thick clumps of
spears. The inequality of force was too great, however,
to be neutralised by skill. The charges of Edward's
mailed horsemen at last crushed the circles, one after
FALKIRK
ess of Kilmarnock; and 'Where is the General?' waa
his officers' frequent inquiry, till at length the General
rode furiously up, his grey hair streaming in the wind.
He found his men formed already, and, seeing the High-
landers advancing towards a hill near South Bantaskiue,
1J mile SW of the town, sent the dragoons on to seize
and to hold the height, and ordered the foot to follow.
The author of Douglas, John Home, who served as lieu-
tenant in the Glasgow Volunteers, describes how, 'at
the very instant the regiments of foot began to march,
the day was overcast; and by-and-by a storm of wind
and rain beat directly in the face of the soldiers, who
were marching up the hill with their bayonets fixed, and
could not secure their pieces from the rain. The cavalry
was a good way before the infantry, and for some time
it seemed a sort of race between the Highlanders and the
dragoons which should get first to the top of the hill.'
The Highlanders won the race, and drew up in a battle-
array of two lines, with a reserve in the rear. The royal
troops, making the most of their circumstances, formed
in two lines along a ravine in front of the enemy; but,
owing to the convexity of the ground, saw their antago-
nists, and were seen in turn, only in the central part
of the line. Their dragoons were on the left, com-
manded by Hawley in person, and stretching parallel to
more than two-thirds of the enemy's position; and their
infantry were on the right, partly in rear of the cavalry,
and outlined by two regiments the enemy's left. The
armies standing within 100 yards of each other, both
unprovided on the spot with artillery, Hawley ordered
his dragoons to advance, sword in hand. Meeting with
a warm reception, several companies, after the first onset
and slaughter. Wallace managed to carry a small body
out of the field, and marched to Stirling. They found
it useless to attempt to hold the place; so, destroying
what they could, they marched on no one knows whither,
the commander and his followers alike disappearing
from the history of that war ' (Hist, of Scott. , ii. 200, ed.
1876). No monument marks the field of battle itself,
midway between the Carron and the town; but on t"
top of a hill, 1 mile SE of Callendar Wood, stands
'Wallace's Stone,' a pillar 10 feet high, erected in 18H
to replace the smaller original slab, a little to the W. Ii
Wallace's Stone,' a pillar 10 feet high, erected in 1810
"irorigi
the churchyard of Falkirk is the gravestone of Sir John
Graham of Abercorn, who fell in the action, and who,
us well as Sir John Stewart of Bonkill, was here interred.
It has been surrounded by a handsome railing sur-
mounted by a Gothic cupola, and affixed to it is a bronze
casting of his two-handed sword. The gravestone lias
been trebly renovated; or rather there are three super-
incumbent stones, each of the upper ones being a copy
of the one beneath it. On all are the following in-
scriptions:
1 Mente mamique potens, et Valla? fidus Achates,
Conditur hie Gramus, hello interfectus ah Anglis.
'xxii.Julii, anno 1298.'
' Here lyes Sir John the Grame, haith wight and wise,
Ane of the chiefs who reschewit Scotland thrice.
Ane better knight not to the world was lent,
Nor was gude Grame of truth and hardiment.'
The second battle of Falkirk was fought on 17 Jan.
1746, between the Highland army, 8000 strong, of Prince
Charles Edward, and 9000 Hanoverians under General
Hawley, 1300 of whom were horse and 1000 Argyll
Highlanders. The Prince was preparing to lay siege to
Stirling Castle, but news being brought of Hawley's
advance from Edinburgh to its relief, determined to give
him battle. The English commander, arriving at Fal-
kirk, encamped between the town and the former field
of battle, there to wait till he should gather sufficient
intelligence for the arrangement of his operations. The
foe, so far from being daunted by his approach, resolved
to attack him in his camp, and skilfully used such feints
to divert and deceive the royal troops, that they were
just about to cross the Carron at Dunipace before they
were perceived. Hawley, a pig-headed disciplinarian,
with an easy contempt tor 'undisciplined rabbles,' was
breakfasting at Callendar House with the Jacobite Count-
paces, wheeled round, and galloped out of sight, disor-
dering the infantry and exposing their left flank by the
flight. The Highlanders, taking advantage of the con-
fusion, outflanked the royal forces, rushed down upon
them with the broadsword, compelled them to give way,
and commenced a pursuit. The King's troops, but for
the spirited exertions of two unbroken regiments and a
rally of some scattered battalions, who checked the pur-
suers, would have been annihilated; as it was, they had
12 officers and 55 privates killed, and in killed, wounded,
and missing lost altogether 280 men according to their
own returns, 1300 according to the Jacobites. Among
the persons of rank who were left dead on the field were
Sir Robert Munro of Foulis, Bart., and his brother Dun-
can, a physician. They were buried beside each other
in the churchyard of Falkirk, and commemorated in a
superb monument erected over their ashes, and inscribed
with a succinct statement of the circumstances of their
death. The Jacobites' loss was only some 40 killed and
80 wounded; and they remained at Falkirk till the 19th,
when they returned by Bannockburn to resume the in-
vestment of STIRLING Castle. See vol. i., pp. 619-630,
of Keltic's History of the Scottish Highlands.
The parish of Falkirk contains also the suburbs of
Camelon, Parkfoot, and Gartcrow, and the villages of
Laurieston and Glen, part of the town of Grangemouth,
and part of the villages of West Carron Iron-Works and
Bonnybridge; and it formerly included the territories
now forming the parishes of Denny, Slamannan, Muir-
avonside, and Polmont. It is bounded N by Dunipace,
Larbert, and Bothkennar, E and SE by Polmont and
Muiravonside, S by Slamannan, SW by Cumbernauld
(one of the two detached Dumbartonshire parishes), and
N W by Denny. Its utmost length, from EN E to WS W,
is 9| miles; its breadth varies between 1J and 5| miles;
and its area is 19,8224 acres, of which 13J are foreshore
and 258 water. CARRON Water roughly traces all the
northern border, and quits it within the Firth of Forth's
foreshore, 1J mile from the open channel of the firth;
its affluent, BONNY Water, winds 4 miles east-north-
eastward on or close to the boundary with Denny; West
QUARTER Burn, rising in the SW of the interior, runs
east-north-eastward to the boundary with Polmont,
then north-north-eastward along that boundary to the
Carron at Grangemouth ; and lastly the river AVON
traces all the Slamannan border. Lochs Ellrig (5J x 1|
FALKLAND
furl.) and Green (1J x 1 furl.) lie 3J miles S and 5 miles
WSW of Falkirk town, but present no feature of special
interest. The land, from the confluence of Carron Water
and West Quarter Burn, southward and west-south-west-
ward, to the extent of about a third of the entire area,
is all but a dead level, and consists of rich carse soil in
the highest state of cultivation. From the town on-
ward the surface is partly undulating, partly hilly, rising
west-south-westward to 405 feet near Standalane, 612
near Westside, and 596 near Sauchierig; southward and
south-south-westward to 646 near Greencraig, 675 near
Loch Allrig, and 581 near Greenrig. Most of that region
is arable, and much of it is diversified by natural woods
and thriving plantations, but a considerable tract, near
the southern boundary, is moor and moss. Of the entire
area, 11,000 acres are arable, 4851 are pasture, 1900 are
waste, and 1800 are under wood. The rocks belong to
the Coal Measures of the Carboniferous formation. Coal
of excellent quality is so abundant as to be largely ex-
ported; sandstone, limestone, and ironstone occur in the
same district as the coal; and lead, copper, silver, and
cobalt have been found, though not in considerable
quantities. Vestiges of ANTONINUS' WALL occur in
various parts; traces of the Roman town of Old CAMELON
existed till a comparatively recent period; some wheat,
supposed to have lain concealed from the time of the
Roman possession, was found about the year 1770 in the
hollow of a quarry near CASTLECARY; funeral urns and
stone coffins have been exhumed in various places; and
several moats or artificial earthen mounds, used in the
Middle Ages as seats of justiciary courts and deliberative
assemblies, are in Seabegs barony. The Forth and Clyde
Canal, commencing at Grangemouth, traverses the parish
nearly its greatest length, or about 9 miles;
Canal, deflecting from the Forth and Clyde
Canal 1 J mile W of the town, traverses the parish to the
length of fully 3 miles, passing on the way a tunnel 3
furlongs in length; the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway
makes a reach of nearly 74 miles within the parish, and
traverses a long tunnel immediately E of Falkirk station ;
the Polmont and Larbert loop-line of the North British
railway, and the branch from it to Grangemouih, are
entirely within the parish; the junctions of that line
with both the Caledonian and the North British lines
from the W, and with the branch line to Denny, are on
the N border, about 2 miles W by N of the town. The
Greenhill junctions, and the line from the upper one of
them to the Larbert junctions, also are within the parish,
about 2 miles from the western boundary; and the reach
of the Caledonian railway from the lower Greenhill junc-
tion makes a curving sweep of fully 2J miles to the
western boundary. Callendar, Kerse, and Bantaskine,
noticed separately, are chief mansions. In the presby-
tery of Linlithgow and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale,
this parish is ecclesiastically divided into Falkirk proper
and the quoad sacra parishes of Grahamston, Camelon,
Grangemouth, Slamannan, Cumbernauld, and Bonny-
bridge; Falkirk itself being a living worth 460. The
public schools in the landward parish are Auchingean,
Bonnybridge, Camelon, Greenhill, and Laurieston, which,
with total accommodation for 2866 children, have an
average attendance of about 1730, and grants amount-
ing to over 1700. Valuation of landward portion of.
parish (1892) 38,710, 15s. 10d., plus 19,038 for rail-
,
through
the Unio
ways and canals. Pop. of civil parish (1881) 25,143,
(1891) 30,731; of q.s. parish (1881) 11,549, (1891) 14,506.
Ord. Stiff., sh. 31, 1867. See Robert Gillespie's Rmmd
About Falkirk (Glasgow, 1879).
Falkland, a small town and a parish in the Cupar
district of Fifeshire. The town stands at the NE base
of East Lomond hill, 2j miles NW of Falkland Road
station on the North British railway, this being 2J miles
S8W of Ladybank Junction, 8J SW of Cupar-Fife, 5i
N by W of Thornton Junction, and 36J N of Edin-
burgh. It once was a place of much resort, the capital
of the stewartry of Fife, the residence of the retainers
of the earls of Fife, and afterwards the residence of
the courtiers of the kings of Scotland; and it possesses
memorials of its ancient consequence in the remains of
FALKLAND
the royal palace, some curious old houses, and such local
names as Parliament Square, College Close, and West
Port. It is now, and has long been, a sequestered country
town, and though enlivened by a few modern erections,
it consists mainly of unpaved roadways, sloping alleys,
intricate lanes, and picturesque old houses. A house of
two stories, fronting the palace, bears an inscription
with the date 1610, intimating it to have been a royal
gift to Nichol Moncrieff; the house adjoining it occu-
pies the site of the residence of the royal falconer, and
retains an inscribed stone of the year 1607; and there
are houses bearing later dates in the same century. A
three-storied house on the S of the square, now used as
a co-operative store, was the birthplace of the famous
Covenanter Richard Cameron.
Falkland was originally a burgh of barony belonging
to the Earls of Fife, but it was erected into a royal burgh
in 1458, during the reign of James II. The preamble
to the charter of erection states, as the reasons for
granting it, the frequent residence of the royal family
at the manor of Falkland, and the damage and incon-
venience sustained by the many prelates, peers, barons,
nobles, and others of their subjects who came to their
country-seat, for want of innkeepers and victuallers.
This charter was renewed by James VI. in 1595. Among
the privileges which these charters conferred, was the
right of holding a weekly market, and of having four
fairs or public markets annually. To the public markets
ibsequently added one called the
- -Larvest
public
linseed market, held in spring, and the other the harvest
ket, held in autumn. There
markets held throughout the y
the months of January, March, May, June, August,
September, and November, but only the last ia well
attended. Like the neighbouring burgh of Auchter-
muchty although certainly entitled originally to have
done so Falkland does not appear at any time to have
exercised its right of electing a member to the Scottish
parliament; consequently its privileges were overlooked
at the time of the Union. In all other respects, however,
this burgh enjoys
the privileges of a
royal burgh. It
is governed by
a town-council,
consisting of 3
magistrates,
councillors, a
treasurer, and a
town-clerk. The
magistrates, be-
sides managing
with the council
the civil affairs of
the burgh, hold
courts from time
to time for the
decision of ques-
tions arising out
of civil contracts
and petty delicts. No town, probably, in Scotland is
better supplied with spring water. This was brought in
1781 from the neighbouring Lomonds by means of pipes,
and is distributed by wells situated in different parts of
the burgh. This useful public work cost about 400
sterling, and was executed at the expense of the corpora-
tion. Falkland has a post office, with money order,
savings bank, and telegraph departments, a branch
office of the British Linen Company Bank, 2 hotels,
gaswork, and a masonic lodge. The town-house, in
front of which stands an ornamental fountain, has a
spire, was erected in 1802, and contains a hall in which
the burgh courts and the meetings of the town-council
are held; its lower story, occupied now by a draper's
shop, served originally as a lock-up house. The parish
church, built in 1849, by the late 0. T. Bruce, Esq., at
a cost of 7000, is a handsome Gothic edifice, with a
fine spire and 900 sittings. There is also a Free church,
whilst at Freuchie, 2 miles to the eastward, are another
Seal of Falkland.
FALKLAND
Established and a U.P. church. The manufacture of
linens and woollens is the staple industry, brewing and
brick-making being also earned on. Pop. (1881) 1068,
(1891) 1045, of whom 959 were in the royal burgh.
The lands of Falkland, including what now constitutes
the burgh, belonged originally to the Crown, and were ob-
tained from Malcolm IV. by Duncan, sixth Earl of Fife,
upon the occasion of his marriage with Ada, the niece
of the king. In the charter cotif'erring them, which is
dated 1160, the name is spelled ' Falecklen. ' The lands
of Falkland continued, with the title and other estates,
with the descendants of Duncan until 1371, when Isobel,
Countess of File, the last of the ancient race, conveyed the
earldom and estates to Robert Stewart, Earl of Monteith,
second son of Robert II., who thus became seventeenth
Earl of Fife, and in 1398 was created Duke of Albany. On
the forfeiture of his son, Murdoch, in 1424, the lands of
Falkland reverted to the Crown, and the town was
shortly afterwards erected into a royal burgh. The courts
of the stewartry of Fife which comprehended only the
estates of the earldom were also removed from the
county town of Cupar to Falkland, where they were
afterwards held as long as the office of steward existed.
In 1601, Sir David Murray of Gospetrie, first Viscount
Stormont, obtained a charter of the Castle-stead of
Falkland, with the office of ranger of the Lomonds and
forester of the woods, and he also held the office of
captain or keeper of the palace and steward of the
stewartry of Fife. The lands called the Castle-stead,
with the offices and other parts of the lands of Falkland,
were afterwards acquired by John, first Duke of Athole,
who was appointed one of his majesty's principal secre-
taries of state in 1696, and lord high commissioner to
the Scottish parliament the following year. He was
twice appointed to the office of keeper of the privy seal,
and was made an extraordinary lord of session in 1712.
At an early period, the Earls of Fife had a residence
here, called the castle of Falkland. Not a vestige of
this building now remains, but its site appears to have
been in the immediate neighbourhood of where the
palace was afterwards built. This fortalice had in effect
the honours of a palace while it was occupied by one of
the blood-royal, Kobert, Duke of Albany, who, for 34
years, had all the power of the state in his hands, under
the different titles of lieutenant-general, governor, and
regent. Although Robert gives it the more humble
designation of ' Manerium nostrum de Fawklaud,' it
was, in fact, the seat of authority ; for his aged and
infirm father constantly resided in the island of Bute.
It receives its first notoriety, in the history of our
country, from the death here, on 27 March 1402, of
Alliany's nephew, David, Duke of Rothesay, eldest son
of Robert 111. That madcap prince was on his way to
seize the castle of St Andrews, whose bishop had just
died, when at Strathtyrum he was arrested under a
royal warrant, and brought a prisoner to the castle of
Falkland. There, says the popular legend, adopted by
Scott in The Fair Maid of 1'crlh, he was thrust into a
dungeon, and left to die of starvation. His life was for
some days feebly sustained by means of thin cakes,
pushed through a crevice in the wall by the young
daughter of the governor of the castle ; but her mercy
being viewed by her ruthless father in the light of
perfidy to himself, she was put to death. Even this
brutal act did not deter another tender-hearted woman,
employed as wet-nurse in the family, who supplied him
with milk from her breasts by means of a long reed,
until she, in like manner, fell a sacrifice to her compas-
sion. Certain it is that the prince's body was removed
from Falkland for burial in the Abbey of Lindores, that
public rumour loudly charged Albany and Douglas with
his murder, and that a parliamentary inquiry resulted
in a declaration to the doubtful effect that he 'died by
the visitation of Providence, and not otherwise. ' Wyn-
toun laments his untimely death, but says nothing of
murder ; so that by Dr Hill Burton the regent is ac-
quitted of this foul blot upon his character (Hist. Seotl.,
ii. 380-396, ed. 1876).
After the lands and castle of Falkland came to the
FALKLAND
Crown by the forfeiture of the earldom, the first throe
Jameses occasionally resided at the castle, enjoying the
pleasures of the chase in the adjoining forest, and on
the Lomond hills ; and in consequence of this the
charter was granted by James II., erecting the town
into a royal burgh. It is impossible now to ascertain
whether James III. or James IV. began to build the
palace, as both of these monarchs were fond of architect-
ure, and both employed workmen at Falkland ; but the
work was completed by James V. in 1537, and with him
the palace is closely associated. Hence he escaped out
of Angus's hands to Stirling, disguised as a stable-boy,
May 1528 ; and hither, broken-hearted by the rout of
Sohvay Moss, he returned to die, 13 Dec. 1542. By his
deathbed stood Cardinal Bethune, Kirkcaldy of Grange,
and his old tutor, Sir David Lindsay, who told him of
the birth, a few days before, of Mary at Linlithgow.
' It came with a lass, and it will go with a lass,' said
James ; then, turning his face to the wall, spake no-
thing more. Here Mary of Guise, his widowed queen,
often resided, while she governed the kingdom for
her infant daughter ; and here she found it necessary
to give her reluctant consent to the armistice agreed
to near Cupar with the Lords of the Congregation.
Here, too, the unfortunate Mary, after her return from
France, oft sought relief in the sports of the field from
the many troubles of her short and unhappy reign.
She appears first to have visited it in Sept. 1561, on her
way from St Andrews to Edinburgh. She returned in
the beginning of the following year, having left Edin-
burgh to avoid the brawls which had arisen between
Arrau and Bothwell ; and resided partly at Falkland,
and partly at St Andrews, for two or three mouths.
She occupied her mornings in hunting on the banks of
the Eden, or in trials of skill in archery in her garden,
and her afternoons in reading the Greek and Latin
classics with Buchanan, or at chess, or with music.
During 1563, after her return from her expedition to
the North, she revisited Falkland, and made various
short excursions to places in the neighbourhood; and
again, in 1564, and after her marriage with Darnley in
1565. After the birth of her son, she once more visited
Falkland; but this appears to have been the last time,
as the circumstances which so rapidly succeeded each
other, after the murder of Darnley and her marriage
with Bothwell, left her no longer at leisure to enjoy the
retirement it had once afforded her.
James VI., while he remained in Scotland, resided
often at the palace of Falkland; and indeed it seems to
have been his favourite residence. After the Raid of
Ruthven (1582), James retired here, calling his friends
together for the purpose of consultingas to the best means
of relieving himself from the thraldom under which he
had been placed; and he was again at Falkland in 1592,
hen Francis-Stewart, Earl of Bothwell, made one of his
desperate attempts on the king's person, and was driven
back solely by the timely assistance of the neighbouring
peasantry. After the riots in Edinburgh in 1596, James
again retired here, where he employed himself partly in
hunting, and partly in plotting the destruction of the
Presbyterian religion, and the introduction of Episcopacy.
In 1600, he was again residing at Falkland, when the
first act was played of the so-called Gowrie Conspiracy.
The king, on 5 Aug., was about to mount his horse to
follow his favourite sport, when the mysterious message
was delivered to him by Alexander Ruthven, brother
to the Earl of Gowrie, which induced James, after the
buck was killed, to ride to PEKTH. In 1 617, when James,
now King of Great Britain, visited Scotland, he, in his
progress through the kingdom, paid his last visit to
Falkland. In 1633, when Charles I. visited Scotland,
he slept three nights here, on his way to Perth ; and on
his return, he slept two nights in going to Edinburgh,
and created several gentlemen of the county knights.
Upon the 6th of July 1650, Charles II., who had arrived
from Holland on the 23d of the preceding month,
visited Falkland, where he resided some days, receiving
the homage of that part of his subjects who were desirous
of his restoration to the crown of his ancestors; and
FALKLAND
here he again returned, after his coronation at Scone, on
the 22d of Jan. 1651, and remained some days.
The oldest portion of the palace, which was erected
either by James III. or James IV., forms the S
front, and still is partially inhabited. On each floor
there are six windows, square-topped, and divided by
mullions into two lights. Between the windows, the
front is supported by buttresses, enriched with niches
'in which statues were placed, the mutilated remains of
whi'-h are still to be seen, and terminating in ornamented
pinnacles which rise considerably above the top of the
wa'J. The lower floor is the part inhabited, and the
up?>er floor is entirely occupied by a large hall. The
western part of this front of the palace is in the castellated
atyle, and of greater height than the other ; it is orna-
mented with two round towers, between which is a
lofty archway which forms the entrance to the court-
yard behind, and which, in former times, was secured
ay strong doors, and could be defended from the towers
that flank it. James V. made great additions to the
palace, and appears to have erected two ranges of build-
ing, equal in size to that described, on the E and N
sides of the courtyard. As completed by him, therefore,
the palace occupied three sides of a square court, the
fourth or western side being enclosed by a lofty wall.
The range of building on the N side of the court has
now entirely disappeared, and of that on the E, the
bare walls alone remain, these two portions of the palace
having been accidentally destroyed by fire in the reign
of Charles II. Having erected his addition to the
palace in the Corinthian style of architecture, James
assimilated the inner front of the older part of the
building, by erecting a new fa9ade in the same style
with the rest of the building. The building consisted
of two stories, a basement or lower floor, and a principal
one, the windows of which are large and elegant, when
we consider the period. Between the windows, the
facade is ornamented with finely proportioned Corinthian
pillars, having rich capitals ; and between the upper
row of windows are medallions, presenting a series of
heads carved in high relief, some of which are beautifully
executed, and would lead us to believe that more than
native talent had been engaged in the work. On the
top of the basement which supports the pillars, the
initials of the king and of his queen, Mary of Guise, are
carved alternately.
The palace of Falkland, deserted by its royal inmates,
was for a long series of years suffered to fall into decay :
' The fretted roof looked dark and cold,
And tottered all around ;
The carved work of ages old
Dropped wither'd on the ground;
The casement's antique tracery
Was eaten by the dew ;
And the night-breeze, whistling mournfully.
Crept keen and coldly through. 1
It was purchased in 1888 by the Marquis of Bute, who
takes great interest in its careful preservation, as well as
in ornamenting the court-yard with flowers and shrubs,
and the ground in its immediate neighbourhood, which
has been laid out as a garden. The mixture of Gothic,
Baronial, and Palladian architecture in this building
makes it of much interest to the antiquarian. The
main front, although distinctly Baronial, has been
treated with buttresses and pinnacles, till it assumes
the outward appearance of some ancient chapel, while
alongside stand the two round towers of the gateway,
with shot-holes, portcullis, and massive walls, that look
incongruous. In the inside, this part at one time
presented the appearance of a narrow, stone-roofed main
building, winged with two round towers corresponding
to those at the entrance. But the space between those
has been filled up to widen the building, and provide a
gallery leading to the large hall, and it is on this later
face that the Corinthian pillars and rows of medallions
are shown. At a certain level on the old towers there
is a bold string course, and it is remarked by architects
how admirably the row of medallions, on the same level,
carries on the line, although of such a different style of
architecture. The ruined E wing of the square presents
FALKLAND
similar medallions, but they are between the rows of
windows, not alternate with the main windows as in
the other wing, and are far less effective. The grand
hall, occupying the main building to the front, shows a
pannelled roof, of which some part of the colouring still
remains, and part of the original decoration of the walls
is also seen. One end of the hall is separated from the
corridor by a magnificent screen in oak, consisting of
slender turned pillars rising from floor to ceiling, and
displaying a very marked style of chamfering, at the
changes from round to square, where the pillars are
divided into stages. A stone balcony runs round the
two towers, with their connecting building, and the
main portion of the front, and from this height a. very
delightful view of the surrounding country is obtained.
The view from the southern parapet of the palace has
long been admired. On the one hand, the Lomond
hills spread out their green sides, and point their conical
summits to the sky ; on the other, the whole strath of
Eden, the Howe of Fife from Cupar to Strathmiglo, lies
open and exposed. Previous to becoming the property
of the Marquis of Bute it was owned by the late Mr
Bruce of Nutt Hill, and by him was rescued from total
decay and repaired. The excellence of the workman-
ship still delights the eye of the antiquarian, and gives
an idea of what the building once was.
It might reasonably be supposed that, while Falkland
continued to be the occasional residence of royalty, it
was not only a place of resort to the higher classes, but
that the peasantry would be permitted to enjoy that
festivity here which was most congenial to their humours.
As it was a favourite residence of that mirthful prince
James V., it might well be conjectured, from his peculiar
habits, that he would be little disposed to debar from
its purlieus those with whom he was wont frequently
to associate in disguise. Accordingly although it is
still matter of dispute among our poetical antiquaries,
whether the palm should not rather be given to his
ancestor James I. one of the most humorous effusions
of the Scottish muse, which contains an express refer-
ence to the jovial scenes of the vulgar at Falkland, has,
with great probability, been ascribed to the fifth of this
name:
rsene
Nouthir at Falkland on the Grene,
Nor Pebillis at the Play,
As wes of wowaris, as I wene,
At Christis kirk on ane day,' etc.
According to Allan Ramsay and the learned Callander,
' Chrystis Kirk ' is the kirktown of Leslie, near Falkland.
Others have said, with less probability, that it belongs
to the parish of Leslie, in that part of the county of
Aberdeen called the Garioch. Pinkerton thinks that,
besides the poems of Christis Kirk and Peblis to the
Play, a third one, of the same description, had been
written, which is now lost, celebrating the festivities of
' Falkland on the Grene.' This phraseology might refer
to what has been called 'the park at Falkland.' Sir
David Lindsay, being attached to the court, must have
passed much of his time at this royal residence. Ac-
cording to his own account notwithstanding the badness
of the ale brewed in the burgh he led a very pleasant
life here ; for, in the language of anticipation, he bids
adieu to the beauties of Falkland in these terms :
Fare weill, Falkland, the forteres9 of Fyfe,
'I hy polite park, under the Lowmound law.
Sum tyme in the, I led a lustie lyfe.
Tho fallow deir, to se thame ra'ik on raw,
Court men to cum to the, thay stand R rait aw,
Because, in the, they never gat gude aill.'
In 1715 Rob Roy and his followers, who had hung
about Sheriffmuir, without taking part with either side
in that struggle, marched to Falkland, and, seizing the
place, levied contributions from the district.
Owing to its courtly surroundings, Falkland long showed
superior refinement in its inhabitants ; and ' Falkland
bred ' had become an adage. The superiority, however,
FALKLAND, NEWTON OF
of Falkland breeding is, like the former grandeur of the
town and palace, now among the things that were. The
place is remarkable also for a reminiscence of a totally
opposite kind. ' A singular set of vagrants existed long
in Falkland called Scrapies, who had no other visible
means of existence than a horse or a cow. Their
ostensible employment was the carriage of commodities
to the adjoining villages; and in the intervals of work
they turned out their cattle to graze on the Lomond hill.
Their excursions at night were long and mysterious, for
the pretended object of procuring coals; but they roamed
with their little carts through the country-side, securing
whatever they could lift, and plundering fields in autumn.
Whenever any inquiry was addressed to a Falkland
Scrapie as to the support of his horse, the ready answer
was "Ou, he gangs up the (Lomond) hill ye ken.'"
The enclosing of the hill and the decay of the town,
however, put an end to this vagrancy.
The parish of Falkland contains also the villages of
FREUCHIE and Newton of Falkland. It is bounded N
by Auchtermuchty, E by Kettle, SE by Markinch, S
by Leslie, SW by Portmoak in Kinross-shire, and AV
and NW by Strathmiglo. Its greatest length, from E
to W, is 5| miles; its greatest breadth, from N to S,
is 3| miles; and its area is 8265 J acres. By Conland,
JIaspie, and other small burns, the drainage is carried
partly southward to the Leven, but mainly northward
to the Eden, which flows just outside the northern
boundary; and the highest point in Falkland between
the two river-basins is the East LOMOND (1471 feet),
since the loftier West Lomond (1713) falls within the
Strathmiglo border. The parts of the parish to the N
and E of the town sink to 130 feet above the sea, and are
almost a dead level; but most of the surface is finely
diversified with gentle valleys and wooded hillsides.
The rocks are variously eruptive and carboniferous
greenstone and limestone; and a vein of galena, dis-
covered about 1783 on the S side of the East Lomond,
was thought to be argentiferous, but never repaid the
cost of working. The soil, too, varies, but is mainly a
fertile light i'riable loam. Woods and plantations cover
some 400 acres ; about a fifth of the entire area is
pastoral or waste; and all the rest of the land is under
cultivation. Kilgour, 2 miles W by N of the town,
was the site of the ancient parish church, and formerly
gave name to the entire parish. Traces of several pre-
historic forts are on the Lomond hills ; remains of
extensive ancient military lines are in the lands of Nut-
hill ; and several old coins, chiefly of Charles I. and
Charles II., have been found among the ruins of Falk-
land Palace. The 'Jenny Nettles' of song handed
herself on a tree in Falkland Wood, and was buried
under a cairn on the Nuthill estate. Falkland House,
or Nuthill, jj mile W of the town, was built in 1839-44,
after designs by Mr Burn, of Edinburgh, at a cost of at
least 30,000, and is a fine edifice in the Tudor style,
with a pleasant well-wooded park. It is the Fife resi-
dence of the Marquis of Bute. In the presbytery of
Cupar and synod of Fife, this parish since 1880 has
been ecclesiastically divided into Freuchie and Falkland,
the latter a living worth 266. Two public schools,
Falkland and Freuchie, with respective accommodation
for 272 and 299 children, have an average attendance of
about 195 and 130, and grants of nearly '^00 and 130
Valuation (1892) 10,513, 12s. 5d. Pop. (1881) 2698'
(1891) 2470, of whom 1489 were in Falkland q. s. parish!
Ord. Sur., sh. 40, 1867. See J. W. Taylor's Some
Historical Antiquities connected with Falkland, Kettle
and Leslie (Cupar, 1861), and Major W. Wood's Histori-
cal Description of Falkland (Kirkcaldy, 1888).
Falkland, Newton of, a village in Falkland parish
Fife, 1 mile E by S of Falkland town. It carries on
some manufactures of dowlas and sheeting.
Falkland Koad, a station near the meeting-point of
Falkland, Kettle, and Markineh parishes, Fife, on the
Thornton and Ladybank section of the North British
railway, 3 miles NNW of Markineh Junction.
Fallen Books, a vast mass of blocks of Old Red
sandstone on the N coast of Arran island, Buteshire,
FAR
2 miles NNW of Sannox. They occur on the sea-facs
of an isolated mountain ridge, 5J miles long and l
mile broad, so situated as to compel the coast-road
round the island to make a detour there inland; they
consist of masses hurled from an overhanging cliff which
fell in the way of landslip; they strew a steep slope and
a skirting beach in magnificent confusion; they look
like a rocky avalanche rushing to the shore, and form a
piece of singularly striking scenery; and they can be
approached on land only on foot and by wary walking.
Falloch, a rivulet of Perth and Dumbarton shires,
rising, at an altitude of 2600 feet above sea-level, on
BEN-A-CHROIN, close to the southern border of Killin
parish. Thence it runs 3J miles north-by-westward to
a point (663 feet) 1| mile SW of Crianlarich Hotel, and
thence 3J miles south-westward, 3J miles southward,
till it falls into the head of Loch Lomond (23 feet) at
ABDLUI. The chief of its many mountain affluents are
the Dubh Eas and the Allt Arnan or ALDEENAN on the
right, and the Allt Inse on the left. From the point
where it turns southward, it traverses the romantic
glen named after it GLEN FALLOCH. through which the
West Highland railway runs from Ardlui to Crianlarich,
and has mostly a rapid current, though finally it sub-
sides into comparative sluggishness. Its trout, as a rule,
run small, but are so plentiful that from ten to twelve
dozen have been taken by one rod in the course of a few
hours. Ord. Sur., shs. 46, 38, 1872-71.
Fallside, a station in Bothwell parish, Lanarkshire,
on the Glasgow South-Side and Motherwell branch of
the Caledonian railway, 1 mile ESE of Uddingston.
Falside, an estate, with a mansion, in Kinnelf parish,
Kincardineshire, 3 miles N by E of Bervie.
Falaide Castle, an ancient peel-tower in Tranent
parish, Haddingtonshire, 2 miles SW of Tranent town,
and 2J ESE of Musselburgh. The E part of its stone
vaulted roof remains ; and a building, a little to the
SW, though later, is quite as ruinous. Standing high,
420 feet above sea-level, Falside commands on a clear
day a glorious view of the Pentlands, Arthur's Seat, the
Firth of Forth, North Berwick Law, and the Bass.
Early in the 14th century, under King Robert the
Bruce, the lands of Falside were forfeited by Alexander
de Such, who had married a daughter of Roger de
Quincy, Earl of Winchester ; and they came then to
the great Seton family, one of whose younger branches
styled themselves Setons of Falside. A spot near the
castle was the scene of a disastrous skirmish in 1547,
on the day before the battle of Pinkie. Ord. Sur., sh.
32, 1857.
Fauna, a hill near the meeting-point of Hobkirk,
Southdean, and Castleton parishes, Roxburghshire,
forming part of the watershed between Teviotdale and
Liddesdale, 8J miles SE of Hawick. It has an alti-
tude of 1687 feet above sea-level.
Fannich, Loch, a lake of Contin parish, towards the
centre of Ross and Cromarty. Lying 822 feet above
sea-level, it extends 6| miles east-south-eastward and
east-by-northward, has a varying width of 3 and 7
furlongs, and sends off a stream 6^ miles east-south-
eastward to Loch Luichart. On its northern shore, 15
miles WNW of Garve station, stands the shooting-
lodge of Fannich deer-forest, a mountainous region,
whose loftiest summit is Sgurr Mor (3637 feet), 3j miles
N of the loch. There are boats on the latter, but the
trout are small and none too plentiful. Achanault
station, on the Highland railway, is only 4 miles from
the loch. Ord. Sur., sh. 92, 1881.
Fannyside, a shallow loch and a moor in Cumber-
nauld parish, Dumbartonshire. The loch, 2| miles SE
of Cumbernauld town, lies 550 feet above sea-level, and
measures 6| furlongs in length by from 1 to 2 furlongs
in breadth. It contains a few pike and perch, but no
trout. The moor lies around the loch, chiefly on the
N side, comprises upwards of 3 square miles, and has
traces of a Roman road, running southward from Castle-
cary. Ord. Sur., sh. 31, 1867.
Far. See FAKE.
FARAY
Faray. See PHABAY.
Fare, Hill of, a broad-based granitic eminence on the
mutual border of Aberdeen and Kincardine shires,
belonging to the parishes of Echt, Midmar, Kincardine
O'Neil, and Banchory-Ternan, and culminating, at
1545 feet above sea-level, 4J miles NNW of Banchory
village. It forms part of the northern screen of the
basin of the Dee, is partly dissevered by the marshy
hollow of COREIOHIE, contains some valuable peat
moss, and affords excellent pasture for numerous flocks
of sheep, producing mutton of very superior flavour,
whilst its fine luxuriant heaths abound in moor-fowl,
hares, and other game. Ord. Sur., sh. 76, 1874.
Farg, a stream of Perthshire, rising among the Ochils
at an altitude of 800 feet above sea-level, and 5J miles N
by W of Milnathort. Thence it winds 10 J miles south-
south-westward, east-by-southward, and north-north-
eastward, bounding or traversing the parishes of Forgan-
denny, Arn?ask, Dron, and Abernethy, till, at a point
1J mile NW of Abernethy town, it falls into the river
Earn. Containing plenty of burn trout, it mostly
traverses a deep, narrow, romantic, wooded glen, called
from it Glen Firg. The North British direct route from
Edinburgh to Perth runs through this glen, in which there
is a station, as does also the turnpike road between
the two cities. On 6 Sept. 1842 the Queen and Prince
Albert drove down ' the valley of Glen Farg: the hills
are very high on each side, and completely wooded down
to the bottom of the valley, where a small stream runs
on one side of the road it is really lovely.' Ord. Sur.,
shs. 40, 48, 1867-68.
Farigaig, a troutful stream of Daviot and Dunlichity
parish, and of Dores parish, NE Inverness-shire. It is
formed, 840 feet above sea-level, and 1 mile NE of
Dunmaglass Lodge, by the confluence of two head-
streams, the longer of which, the Allt Uisg an t-Sithein,
rises at an altitude of 2500 feet, and runs 6j miles
north-by-westward. From their point of confluence
the Farigaig winds 8 miles north -north -westward
and south-westward, till it falls into Loch Ness at
Inverfarigaig, 2J miles NNE of Foyers. It receives a
rivulet running f mile west-by-southward from Loch
RUTHVEN (2J miles x 4J furl. ; 700 feet), and it traverses
a deep and finely wooded defile. Ord. Sur., sh. 73,
1878.
Farkin or Firkin, a small bay and a small headland
in Arrochar parish, Dumbartonshire, on the W side of
Loch Lomond, If mile NNW of Rowardennan Ferry.
Far-land Head. See KILBRIDE, West.
Farme, a mansion in Eutherglen parish, Lanarkshire,
on the left bank of the Clyde, 1 mile N by E of Ruther-
glen. Consisting of a very ancient castellated structure
in a state of high preservation, with harmonious modern
additions, it forms one of the finest specimens of the old
baronial mansion-house in the W of Scotland. The
estate, which mainly consists of extensive fertile haugh
half engirt by a bold sweep of the Clyde, belonged to
successively the royal Stuarts, the Crawfords, the
Stewarts of Minto, the Flemings, and the Hamiltons,
and now is held by Allan Farie, Esq. Ord. Sur., sh.
31, 1867.
Farnell, a parish of E Forfarshire, whose church
stands on the southern side of the pretty Den of Farnell,
4 miles SSE of the post-town Brechin, and 1 furlong
NW of Farnell Road station on the Scottish North-
Eastern section of the Caledonian, this being 3 miles
SW of Bridge of Dun Junction.
The parish is bounded W, NW, and N by Brechin, NE
by Dun, E by Maryton, SE by Craig, S by Kinnell, and
SW by Guthrie. Its length from E by N to W by S,
varies between 2J and 4J miles; its utmost breadth is
3J miles; and its area is now 5705 acres, of which 52J
are water, A detached portion of the parish (containing
49J acres), that formed a portion of Montreathmont
Moor and adjoined the parish of Kinnell, was transferred
by the Boundary Commissioners in 1891 to the latter
parish. The river South ESK winds 1J mile east-by-
southward along the northern border, and just beyond
the NE corner of the parish receives Pow Burn, which,
coming in from Kinnell, and running north-eastward
across the south-eastern interior, then along the Mary-
ton boundary, itself is joined by two or three rivulets
from the W. In the NE the surface declines to 20 feet
above sea-level, thence rising gently to 200 feet at the
western border, and more rapidly southward to 446 on
Ross Muir. ' The whole of Farnell belongs to the Earl
of Southesk, whose estate is one of the most compact
and desirable in the county. The soil is mostly a clayey
loam, in parts rather stiff, and in others of a moorish
texture. The subsoil is chiefly clay, mixed with gravel,
and resting on the Old Red sandstone. On the higher
parts whinstone shoots up here and there to within a few
inches of the surface,' etc. (Trans. Highl. and Ag. Soc.,
1881, pp. 87-89). Farnell Castle, J mile WNW of the
church, was visited by Edward I. of England on 7 July
1296, and first is heard of as a grange or residence of the
Bishops of Brechin. Now turned into an almshouse for
old women, it is a plain three-story pile, with a turn-
pike staircase on its southern front; the oldest or SW
part was built about the beginning of the 16th century,
perhaps by Bishop Meldrum. Bishop Campbell re-
signed the lands of Farnell in 1566 to his patron and
chief, the fifth Earl of Argyll, who within two years
bestowed them on his kinswoman, Catharine, Countess
of Crawford. Her grand-daughter married Sir David
Carnegie of Kinnaird, afterwards Earl of Southesk; and
with his descendants, save for the period of their for-
feiture (1716-64), Farnell has since continued. Kinnaird
Castle is noticed separately. Since 1787 comprising
great part of the ancient parish of Cuikstone or Kin-
naird, Farnell is in the presbytery of Brechin and
synod of Angus and Mearns; the living is worth 310.
The church, on a rising ground, surrounded by fine old
trees, is a neat Gothic edifice of 1806, containing 330
sittings; an ancient stone monument found here, witli
carving on it of the Fall of Adam, is figured in Dr John
Stuart's Sculptured Stones of Scotland (1867). Farnell
public school, with accommodation for 130 children, has
an average attendance ol about 110, and a grant of nearly
115. Valuation (1892) 5435, 2s., plus 1515 for
railway. Pop. (1881) 613, (1891) 627. Ord. Sur., sh.
57, 1868. See chap. ii. of Andrew Jervise's Memorials
of Angus and Mearns (Edinb. 1861).
Farnell Eoad. See FARNELL.
Farnua. See KIRKHILL, Inverness-shire.
Farout Head or Fair Aird, a promontory in Durncss
parish, N Sutherland, projecting 2J miles north-north-
westward, between Balnakiel or Baile na Cille Bay on
the W and the entrance to Loch Eriboll on the E, till it
terminates in a point 8J miles ESE of Cape Wrath. Its
sides rise in rocky cliffs to a height of 329 feet above
sea-level, and present a sublime appearance; its summit
commands a magnificent view from Cape Wrath to
Whiten Head. Ord Sur., sh. 114, 1880.
Farr, a hamlet and a parish on the N coast of Suther-
land. The hamlet, Bettyhill of Farr, lies at the head
of Farr Bay, 9 furlongs E of the mouth of the river
Naver, 30 miles W by S of Thurso, and 27 NNE of
Altnaharrow; at it are an inn, a police station, and a
post office under Thurso, with money order, savings
bank, and telegraph departments. A mail coach runs
daily to and from Thurso.
The parish, containing also the hamlets of ALTNA-
HARROW, ARMADALE, and Strathy, is bounded N by
the North Sea, E by Reay (in Caithness-shire) and Kil-
donan, SE by Clyne, S by Rogart, SW by Lairg, and
W by Durness and Tongue. Its utmost length, from
NNE to SSW, is 32 miles; its breadth, from E to W,
varies between 8J and 22 miles; and its area is now
267,039 acres, the Sutherlandshire portion of the parish
of Reay, containing no less than 71,842 acres, having
been transferred by the Boundary Commissioners in
1891 to the parish of Farr, and Reay parish restricted
to its Caithness-shire portion. The coast-line is in-
dented from E to W by Bighouse, Strathy, Armadale,
Kirtomy, and Farr Bays, and projects a prominent
headland in Strathy Point (287 feet), lesser ones in
Kirtomy Point (467), Farr Point (369), and Creag
Ruadh (331). It is 'composed,' says Mr Archibald
Young, ' either of bold rocks from 20 to 200 feet high,
against which the waves of the North Sea break with
fearful violence, or of shallow sands, on which heavy
surges are generally rolling. Yet, on all this extent
of coast, there is nothing worthy of the name of a
harbour ; though at Kirtomy and Armadale, and in
one or two creeks, boats may land in moderate weather.
It is impossible to doubt that this want of harbour
accommodation for fishing boats very much hinders
the prosecution of the fishings of cod, ling, haddocks,
and herrings which abound off the coast, and that
the establishment of a commodious and secure landing-
place for boats would be a great boon to the district,'
etc. (pp. 45-50, Sutherland, 1880). Inland, the sur-
face is everywhere hilly or mountainous, from N to S
attaining 553 feet at Naver Rock, 1728 at Beinn's
Tomaine, 3154 at conical *BEN CLIBRICK, 2669 at the
NE shoulder of BEN HEE, and 2278 at *Creag nah-
lolaire, where asterisks mark those summits that cul-
minate on the confines of the parish. Loch NAVER (6J
miles x4J furl.; 247 feet) lies towards the SW, and,
whilst receiving the river of Mudale and other streams
at its head, discharges from its foot the river Naver,
winding 18? miles north-by-eastward to the sea. The
Naver, mile below its efflux from Loch Naver, is
joined by the Malert, which itself flows 7 miles north-
north-eastward out of Loch Coir' an Fhearna(3 miles x 3J
furl. ; 570 feet), a lake that lies towards the southern
extremity of Farr, and at its head communicates by a
narrow channel with Loch a' Bealaich (l|xj mile).
The eastern shore of Loch LOYAL likewise belongs to
Farr, and its effluent, the Borgie, above and below
Borgie Bridge traces 2J miles of the boundary with
Tongue; on the eastern border lies Loch nan Cuinne
(3 x 1 mile; 392 feet), the westernmost of the BADEN
chain of lakes, so that the drainage partly belongs to
the basin of Helmsdale river. Out of Loch Strathy
(7 x 2 furl. ; 646 feet) Strathy Water runs 14J miles
north-by-eastward to Strathy Bay, and drains, with its
affluents, what is now the northern central district of
Farr, whose chief other stream is Armadale Water, run-
ning 5 miles north-by-eastward to Armadale Bay, whilst
of lakes beyond number one other only needs notice-
Loch Meadie (IgxJ mile; 405 feet). Through the
added or Reay portion of the parish the river HALLA-
DALE runs 22J miles NNW and N to the Bay of Big-
house. It rises close to the southern boundary at an
altitude of 1200 feet above sea-level, and is fed by Dyke
Water (running 8? miles NNE) and a number of lesser
streams. The rocks on the seaboard are mainly
Devonian, and granite and gneiss prevail throughout
the interior. A whitish sandstone, capable of fine
dressing by the chisel, has been quarried at Strathy;
and near it is limestone of first-rate manurial quality.
Along Strathnaver, the finest strath perhaps in all the
county, there is a considerable extent of good haugh
land, a mixture of sand, gravel, and moss; and along
the Strathy, too, there arc here and there arable patches
of fertile thin sandy soil. Sheep- farming, however, is
the staple industry, the largest of several large sheep
farms being Langdale, Rhilail, Clebrig, Armadale, and
Bighouse. The scanty vestiges of BOHVE tower have
been separately noticed; *duns,' barrows, standing
stones, and remains of several circular towers in Strath-
Halladale make up the remaining antiquities. The Duke
of Sutherland is sole proprietor of the older part of the
parish, and almost so of the added portion. In the
presbytery of Tongue and synod of Sutherland and
Caithness, this parish is divided ecclesiastically into
Farr and Strathy, the former a living worth 215. Its
church, built in 1774, was restored in 1882 ; in the
churchyard is a very early stone obelisk, sculptured
with crosses and other emblems. In the added portion
there is Strath-Halladale Free Church mission chapel.
Six public schools Armadale, Dalhalvaig, Farr, Kir-
tomy, Melvich, and Strathy with total accommodation
for 523 children, has an average attendance of about
315, and grants amounting to nearly 415. Pop. (1871)
10
FASNACLOICH
2019, (1881) 2750, (1891) 2750, of whom 1081 were in
Farr g. s. parish, and 776 in that of Strathy. Ord.
Sur., shs. 114, 115, 108, 109, 1878-80.
Farr, an estate, with a mansion, in Daviot and Dun-
lichity parish, Inverness-shire, on the Nairn's left bank,
6| miles SSW of Daviot church.
Farragon Hill, a mountain in Dull parish, Perthshire,
4 miles NNW of Aberfeldy. It rises to an altitude of
2559 feet above sea-level.
Farraline, Loch, a lake of Dores parish, NE Inverness-
shire, 3 miles E by S of Inverfarigaig. Lying 650 feet
above sea-level, it has an utmost length and width of 9
and 2 J furlongs, abounds in trout, and sends on" a stream
3| miles north-north-eastward to the Farigaig. A num-
ber of muskets, discovered here in 1841, in the course
of drainage operations, were supposed to have been
thrown into the loch during the troubles of the '45.
Ord. Sur., sh. 73, 1878.
Farrer, a small river of Ross and Inverness shires.
It rises among mountains of SW Ross-shire, 9 miles E
of the head of Loch Carron, and thence winds 27J miles
east-north-eastward and east-by-southward, expanding
at various points into Lochs MONAR, MIT/LIE, and
Bunacharan (1 J mile x 2J furl. ; 367 feet), till, 5 fur-
longs S by W of KRCHLESS Castle, it unites with the
GLASS to form the river BEAULY. Its glen, Strath-
farrer, is a series of circular meadowy spaces, two of
them occupied by Lochs Miulie and Bunacharan, and all
flanked by bold, rocky, intricate, mountainous accli-
vities, partly fringed with wood; and it displays a rich
variety of picturesque scenery. Its waters are well
stocked with trout and grilse. A carriage road, striking
into Strathfarrer from Strathglass, crosses the river,
near its mouth, by a strong bridge, and ascends the
glen to the foot of Loch ilonar; and a footpath goes
thence, through a wild mountain region, and partly
through a mountain pass, to Lochs Carron and Alsh.
Masses of graphite or black lead lie embedded among
gneiss rocks in the mouth of Strathfarrer. Ord. Sur.,
shs. 82, 83, 1882-81.
Farthingbank, a hamlet in Durisdeer parish, NW
Dumfriesshire, near the right bank of the Nith, 5i miles
NNWofThornhill.
Fascadale, a place on the northern coast of Ard-
namurchan parish, Argyllshire, 20 miles NNW of
Salcu, in Mull.
Faseny Water, a Lammermuir rivulet of Garvald and
Whit Lin-ham parishes, S Haddingtonshire, rising close
to the Berwickshire border at an altitude of 1550 feet
above sea-level, and winding 7J miles east-north-eastward
till it falls into the Whitadder at Mill Knowe, 3 miles
WNW of Cranshaws church. It possesses great interest
to geologists as exposing a fine section of the Lammer-
muir rocks, and is well stocked with trout. Ord. Sur.,
sh. 33, 1863.
Faskally, an estate, with a mansion, in Logierait parish,
Perthshire, at the confluence of the rivers Tummel and
Garry, 2 miles NW of Pitlochry. Nature and art
have combined to render it 'a very pretty place,' as
Queen Victoria styles it in her Journal, 11 Sept. 1844.
Faskine, an estate and a village in Old Monkland
parish, Lanarkshire, on the right bank of North Calder
Water, f mile W of Calderbank. The estate contains
coal and ironstone mines, worked from an earlier period
than any others in the great Clydesdale mineral field.
Pop. of Faskine and Palacecraig (including Billhead).
(1881) 475, (1891) 486.
Faslane, a small bay in Row parish, Dumbartonshire,
on the E side of Gare Loch, 1J mile SSE of Gareloch-
head. An ancient castle of the Earls of Lennox here
is now represented by only a grassy mound ; but a
pre-Reformation chapel, dedicated to St Michael, has left
some vestiges.
Fasnacloich, a mansion in Lismore and Appin parish,
Argyllshire, in Glencreran, 2J miles NE of the head of
Loch Creran, and 13| N of Taynuilt station. It stands
on the NW shore of Loch Baile Mhic Chailein or Fasna-
cloich (4J x If furl.), a beautiful expansion of the river
Creran, containing plenty of sea-trout and salmon; and
FASNAKYLE
there is a post office of Fa
Ord. Sur., sh. 53, 1877.
cloich under Ledaig.
Fasaakyle, a mansion in Kilmorack parish, Inverness-
shire, at the confluence of the Atfric and Amhuinn
Deabhaidh to form the river Glass, 2| miles SW of
Glenatfric Hotel.
Fasque, a mansion in Fettercairn parish, SW Kincar-
dineshire, between Crichie Burn and the Burn of Garrol,
1 J mile N by W of Fettercairn village. Built in 1808-9
at a cost of 30,000 by Sir Thomas Ramsay of Balmain,
seventh Bart, since 1625, it is a large palatial looking
edifice, commanding a wide prospect, and surrounded by
beautiful and extensive policies, with a lake (3 x 1 furl.)
and many trees of great dimensions and rare grandeur.
The Fasque estate, held by the Ramsays from the 15th
century, was purchased about 1828 by the Liverpool
merchant, Mr John Gladstones (1764-1851), who in 1846
was created a baronet as Sir John Gladstone of Fasque
and Balfour, and whose fourth son is the Right Hon.
AVilliam Ewart Gladstone (b. 1809). The estate is now
held by Sir John Robert Gladstone, third Bart. (b. 1852;
sue. 1889). 'The Fasque property,' writes Mr James
Macdonald in Trans. Uighl. and Ag. Sac., 1881, pp. 114,
115, ' now extends from Fettercairn village to within less
than 10 miles of Banchory on Deeside, a distance of over
16 miles. By far the greater portion lies on the Gram-
pian range, and consists of black heath-clad hills inter-
sected by numerous valleys or small straths in which
there is a good deal of green pasture. On the im
estate of Glendye, purchased by Sir Thomas Gladstone
he presen
of Southesk, there are several small farms in the lower
(father of the present baro
sed by Sir
net) about
1865 from the Earl
rrts towards Banchory, while on the other estates there
a large extent of excellent arable land, mostly good
rich loam, strong and deep in some parts and thin in
others, but all over sound and fertile. The property
contains a great deal of valuable wood, not a little of
which has been planted by Sir Thomas and his father.
. . . A very commodious farm-steading was erected
on the home farm (670 acres) in 1872.' The Episcopal
church of Fasque, St Andrew's, was built in 1847 by
Sir John, the first baronet, who made his place of
sepulture within its walls. Ord. Sur., sh. 66, 1871.
See BIGOAR.
Fassifern, an estate, with a mansion, in the Inverness-
shire section of Kilmallie parish, on the northern shore
of Upper Loch Eil, 7J miles WNW of Fort William. It
was the seat of a branch of the Camerons, to which be-
longed Col. John Cameron (1771-1815), who fell at Quatre
Bras, and over whose grave in Kilmallie churchyard at
Corpach is a lofty obelisk, with an inscription by Sir
Walter Scott. A stone quarry on the
material for constructing the Caledon
Scott. A stone quarry on the estate supplied
nstructing the Caledonian Canal and
building a quay at Fort Willi
Fast, an ancient military strength in Bedrule parish,
Roxburghshire, 1 furlong NW of the ruins of Bedrule
Castle. It seems to have been an outwork of the
castle, and is now represented by merely a mound.
Fast Castle, a ruinous sea-fortress in Coldingham
parish, Berwickshire, perched on a jutting cliff that
beetles 70 feet above the German Ocean, 44 miles NW
of Coldingham village, 3 WNW of St Abb's Head, and
7 E of Ooekburnspath station. Backed by high grassy
hill slopes, it presents one shattered side of a low square
keep, with a fragment more shattered still overhanging
the sea-verge of its rock, which, measuring 120 by 60
feet, is accessible only by a path a few feet wide, and
formerly was quite dissevered from the mainland by a
chasm of 24 feet in width that was crossed by a draw-
bridge. In 1410, it was held by Thomas Holden and an
English garrison, who had long harassed the country by
flu-ir pillaging excursions, when Patrick, second son of
the Earl of Dunbar, with a hundred followers, took the
castle and captured the governor. According to Holin-
slied, Fast Castle again fell into the hands of the English,
but was recovered by the following stratagem in 1548
' The captain of Fast Castle had commanded the hus-
bandmen adjoining to bring thither, at a certain day,
great store of victuals. The young men thereabouts,
FAULDHOUSE
having that occasion, assembled thither at the day ap.
pointed, who, taking their burdens from their horses,
and laying them on their shoulders, were allowed to
pass the bridge, which joined two high rocks, into the
castle ; where, laying down that which they brought,
they suddenly, by a sign given, set upon the keepers of
the gate, slew them, and before the other Englishmen
could be assembled, possessed the other places, weapons,
and artillery of the castle, and then receiving the rest
of the company into the same, through the same great
and open gate, they wholly kept and enjoyed the castle
for their countrymen.' Sir Nicolas Throgmorton, in
1567, characterises it as a place ' fitter to lodge prisoners
than folks at liberty;' and, in 1570, when only
tenanted by ten Scots, Drury, Marshal of Berwick, after
taking Home Castle, was sent to invest Fast Castle with
2000 men, it being the next principal place that be-
longed to the Homes. Passing from them by marriage
about 1580, 'Fast Castle,' says Sir Walter Scott,
in his Provincial Antiquities, ' became the appro-
priate stronghold of one of the darkest characters of
that age, the celebrated Logan of Restalrig. There
is a contract existing in the charter-chest of Lord Napier
betwixt Logan and a very opposite character, the cele-
brated inventor of logarithms, the terms of which
are extremely singular. The paper is dated July 1594,
and sets forth " Forasmuch as there were old reports
and appearances that a sum of money was hid within
John Logan's house of Fast Castle, John Napier should
do his utmost diligence to search and seek out, and by
all craft and ingine to find out the same, and, by the
grace of God. shall either find out the same, or make it
sure that no such thing has been there. " For his reward
he was to have the extra third of what was found, and
to be safely guarded by Logan back to Edinburgh.
And in case he should find nothing, after all trial and
diligence taken, he refers the satisfaction of his travel
and pains to the discretion of Logan.' Logan was next
engaged in the mysterious Gowrie Conspiracy (1600).
It was proposed to force the King into a boat from the
bottom of the garden of Gowrie House, and thence con-
duct him by sea to that ruffian's castle, there to await
the disposal of Elizabeth or of the conspirators. Logan's
connection with this affair was not known till nine years
after his death, when the correspondence betwixt him
and the Earl of Gowrie was discovered in the possession
of Sprott, a notary public, who had stolen them from
one John Bour, to whom they were intrusted. Sprott
was executed, and Logan was condemned for high
treason, even after his death, his bones having been
brought into court for that purpose. Almost greater,
however, than any historic interest connected with Fast
Castle is the fictitious one with which Scott invested it
in his Bride of Lammermoor, by choosing it for proto-
type of ' Wolfs Crag,' the solitary and naked tower of
Edgar Ravenswood. Ord. Sur., sh. 34, 1864. See
F. HunnewelYs Lands of Scott (Edinb. 1871).
Fatlips Castle, an ancient fortalice in Minto parish,
Roxburghshire, on the crown of Minto Crags, near the
left bank of the Teviot, J mile ENE of Minto House.
Supposed to have been a stronghold of the Turnbulls,
it is figured in Grose's Antiquities of Scotland, and
appears there as still comprising two stories ; but it is
now a small fragmentary ruin.
Fatlips Castle, an ancient fortaliee in Symington
parish, Lanarkshire, on a spur projecting from the SE
skirt of Tinto Hill, 2 miles NtfE of Wiston. It is now
represented by only a piece of wall about 6 feet high
and fully 6 feet thick.
Fauldhouse, a q. s. parish and a mining village in
Whitburn parish, SW Linlithgowshire, with a station
on the Cleland and Midcalder line of the Caledonian,
6| miles WSW of West Calder. Lving in a bleak
region of collieries, ironstone mines, and paraffin works, it
stands within a mile of CROFTHEAD and Greenbnrn,
villages similar to itself, and practically forms one with
them. It has a post office, with money order, savings'
bank, and telegraph departments, a branch of the
FAUNGRASS
National Bank, and an endowed school. The Estab-
lished church, built at a cost of 1700, was raised to
quoad sacra status in 1872; St John's Roman Catholic
church (1873; 550 sittings) is a good early English
edifice. Pop. of Fauldhouse and Crofthead (1871) 3151,
(1881) 3000, (1891) 2762; of quoad sacra parish (1881)
3933, (1891) 3469. Ord. Sur., sh. 31, 1867.
Faungrasa, a bum in Longformacus and Greenlaw
parishes, Berwickshire, rising on Evelaw, among the
Lammermuirs, on the SE border of Longformacus, and
running 5 miles southward and south-eastward to Black-
adder Water, at a point If mile NW of Greenlaw town.
Ord. Sur., sh. 25, 1865.
Fawside. See FALSIDE.
Fea, an eminence in Cross parish, Sanday Island,
Orkney. It rises gently from the E, terminates in a
maritime precipice on the W, is pierced in the base of
the precipice by curious caverns, and commands from its
summit very fine views.
Feachan, Feochan, or Feuchan, a sea-loch on the
mutual boundary of Kilninver and Kilbride parishes,
Argyllshire. Penetrating the land 4f miles, first south-
eastward, next east-north-eastward, it is 1 mile wide at
the entrance, and from 1 furlong to 4 mile higher up; has
a depth of 15 fathoms; is flanked by high rocky promon-
tories; receives at its head the Nell, and at Kilninver
the Euchar; and at the time of spring tides has the ap-
pearance of a wide rapid river.
Fearn, a village and a coast parish of NE Ross and
Cromarty. The village, Hill of Fearn, stands 50 feet
above sea-level, 1J mile E by S of Fearn station, on the
Din"\vall and Tain section of the Highland railway,
this being 34 miles SE of Tain, and 22 NE of Dingwall;
at it is a post office, with money order, savings bank,
and railway telegraph departments.
The parish, containing also the fishing villages of
Balintore and Hilton of Cadboll, 2J miles SE and 2|
ESE of Hill of Fearn, is bounded NW by Tain, NE by
Tarbat, SE by the Moray Firth, S by Nigg, and SW and
W by Logie-Easter. Its utmost length, from E to W, is
5 miles; its utmost breadth, from N to S, is 4g miles;
and its area is 8253J acres, of which 1234 are foreshore
and 289J water. The coast-line, 3J miles long, rises
steeply near Geanies in precipitous cliffs to a height of
200 feet above the sea, but southward is low and sandy;
inland the surface is much of it nearly fiat, and nowhere
exceeds 150 feet. Loch EYE (If mile x 44 furl.; 51
feet), on the Tain border, is almost the only lake that
has not been drained; and there are no streams of any
consequence. The predominant rock is Old Red sand-
stone; but the small vein of limestone that runs from
the North Sutor to Tarbat Ness, crops out at Geanies.
The soil is largely a very rich fertile loam, and agri-
culture is carried to high perfection, steam-ploughing
having been introduced in 1875, whilst from a little
knoll near Cadboll no fewer than eighteen steam-stalks
may be counted. Cattle-feeding, too, is carried on,
especially on the farms of the Cadboll property, belong-
ing to Macleod of Invergordon. Geauies estate under-
went great improvement from 1840 under the care of
that eminent agriculturist, Kenneth Murray, Esq.
(1826-76), who succeeded his brother in 1867, and who
extended the arable area from 2016 to 4000 acres, the
new land being partly reclaimed from bog and moss,
partly from moor, and partly from lochs. Geanies
House, 4 miles ENE of Hill of Fearn, commands a
glorious view over the Moray Firth, has extensive and
well-kept gardens and pleasure grounds, and is now the
seat of his son, William Hugh Eric Murray, Esq. (b.
1858). Other mansions are Allan House and Rhynie
House, standing respectively 1J mile SW and 14 NE of
the village of Hill of Fearn. The Proemonstratensian
Abbey of Fearn was founded in 1221 by Ferchard Mac-
intaggart, Earl of Ross, in EDDERTON parish, but in
1338 was transferred to Fearn to escape the ferocity of
neighbouring clans. Of its twenty-one abbots the fif-
teenth was the protomartyr of the Scottish Reformation,
Patrick Hamilton (1503-28), who was burned at ST AN-
DREWS. He was but a youth when he obtained the abbacy
12
in 1524, and it is doubtful whether he ever took orders;
anyhow his connection with Fearn was little more than
titular. The abbey church comprised a nave, a choir
(99 x 254 ^et), a Lady chapel, and two transeptal chapels
First Pointed mainly in style, with later insertions
and additions, the whole having been completed by Abbot
James Cairncross in 1545. It served as the parish
church from the Dissolution till 1742, when on a Sunday
of October the ponderous stone roof fell in, as graphically
told in Hugh Miller's Scenes and Legends, under the
title of 'The Washing of the Mermaid.' Forty-four
persons were killed, and more must have lost their lives,
but that the stalwart preacher, Robertson of Gairloch,
set his shoulder against the door, and so propped up the
side wall. The pile lay in ruins till 1772, when it was
patched up to serve anew as parish church; and though
lamentably mutilated, with its E end cut off for the
Balnagowan mausoleum, it still retains many features of
interest three sedilia, two piscinas, a credence, three
monumental effigies, and some good lancet and traceried
windows. Another antiquity, noticed separately, is
Lochslin Castle. Vestiges of Cadboll Castle are still to be
seen, and also an ancient sculptured pillar. Fearn is in
the presbytery of Tain and synod of Ross; the living is
worth 364. The parish or abbey church stands 5 fur-
longs SE of the village, and a Free church 1J mile E by
N. Three public schools, all of recent erection, at Bal-
muchy, Hill of Fearn, and Hilton, with respective ac-
commodation for 80, 131, and 202 children, have an
average attendance of about 80, 80, and 165, and grants
of nearly 90, 95, and 215. Pop. (1801) 1528, (1831)
1695, (1861) 2083, (1871) 2135, (1881) 2135, (1891)
1900. Ord. Sur., sh. 94, 1878.
Fearn, two districts and a rivulet in Edderton
parish, Ross-shire. The districts are Easter Fearn and
Wester Fearn ; and the rivulet intersects or divides
them northward to the inner Dornoch Firth. See
EDDERTON.
Fearn or Fern, a parish in the central part of Forfar-
shire, whose church is beautifully situated on an iso-
lated hillock in the midst of a romantic den, 9 miles
N by E of Forfar, and 7 W of Brechin, under which
there is a post office of Fearn. It is bounded N by
Lethnot, E by Menmuir and Careston, S and W by
Tannadice. Its utmost length, from NNW to SSE, is
5| miles; its greatest breadth, from E to W, is 3J miles;
and its area is 8811* acres, of which 20 are water. Clear-
flowing NORAN Water winds 45 miles east south-
eastward along all the southern border, on its way to
the South Esk; and CRUIOK Water, an affluent of the
North Esk, rising in the northern extremity of the
parish, runs 5| miles south-south-eastward, then 14
mile eastward, through the interior, and passes off into
Menmuir. In the SE the surface sinks to less than
300 feet above sea-level, thence rising to 421 feet near
Wellford, 605 near Noranside, 970 at Deuchar Hill,
1003 at Greens of Shandford, 1009 at *Mansworn Rig,
1682 at *Benderochie, 1377 at Craig of Trusta, and 1900
at the *Hill of Garbet, where asterisks mark those sum-
mits that culminate on the borders of the parish. The
rocks include clay slate and Old Red sandstone, and the
slate has been quarried; whilst the soil is fertile through-
out the Strathmore district and in parts of the central
valley. On a rocky and precipitous reach of Noran Water
stand the haunted ruins of the castle of Vayue, or
ancient manor-house of Fearn, originally a three-story
pile of friable red sandstone, with a round south-west-
ern tower. Falsely ascribed to Cardinal Bethune, and
greatly enlarged towards the close of the 17th century
by Robert, third Earl of Southesk, this, or a prede-
cessor, was the seat of the Montealtos or Mowats, who
held the estate of Fearn from the reign of William the
Lyon (1166-1214) till some time prior to 1450. In
that year it was in the possession of the Earls of Craw-
ford, from whom it passed about 1594 to the Carnegies
of SOUTHESK. By them it was sold in 1766 to Mr John
Mill, whose son built Noranside. The small estate of Deu-
chars has its interest, as having been owned by Deuchars
of that ilk from the 10th century till 1818. The ' Eel-
FECHLEY
pie's Footmark ' is still to be seen in a sandstone rock
near the castle of Vayne, but little or nothing remains
of a ' Druidical circle,' of a circular prehistoric dwelling,
or of three tumuli on the hills, one of which yielded a
number of ancient urns. NOIIANSIDE is the chief i
sion. Fearn is in the presbytery of Brechin and synod
of Angus and Mearns; the living is worth 162. The
church, originally founded by Bishop Colman about 66G,
and dedicated to St Aidan, was rebuilt in 1806, and
contains 238 sittings ; whilst a public school, with
accommodation for 68 children, has an average attend-
ance of about 50, and a grant of nearly 50. Valuation
(1857) 4155, (1882) 5194, 10s. 9d., (1892) 3975, Is.
Pop. (1801) 448, (1831) 450, (1861) 439, (1871) 348,
(1881) 316, (1891) in. Ord. Sur., sh. 57, 1868. See
chap. v. of Andrew Jervise's Land of the Lind
(Edinb. 1853).
Fechley or Fichlie, a place in Towie parish, W
Aberdeenshire, 1J mile ENE of Towie church. The
Peel of Fechley, a mound here, partly natural and
partly artificial, measures upwards of 60' feet in height,
and from 127 to 200 feet in summit breadth ; is
rounded by a fosse, from 12 to 41 feet in width,
from 8 to 35 feet in depth ; and is crowned with vitrified
remains of a tower.
Fechtin Ford, a place on the border of Muiravonside
parish, Stirlingshire, on Avon Water, 1 mile above
Manuel House. It is traditionally said to have been
the scene of a feud between the shepherds of the con
fronting banks.
Federate, a ruined castle in New Deer parish, Aber.
deenshire, 2 miles N of New Deer village. Surrounded
partly by a fosse, partly by a morass, it was approach-
able only by a causeway and a drawbridge ; formed an
incomplete square, with great thickness of wall, and
with the corners rounded off ; and, dating from some
period unknown to either record or tradition, is said to
have been one of the last strongholds of the Jacobite
forces after the battle of Killiecrankie.
Fender, a burn in Blair Athole parish, Perthshire,
rising on the SW slope of Benglo at an altitude of 3050
feet above sea-level, and running 6g miles south-west-
ward along an alpine glen, till, after a total descent of
2400 feet, it falls into the river Tilt, 1 mile N by E of
Blair Athole village. It makes three picturesque falls,
the first about a mile from its mouth, the third at its
influx to the Tilt ; approaches the last fall through a
narrow recess ; and in a boiling and eddying series of
five descents, to the aggregate depth of 30 feet, thunders
into the Tilt at a point where the latter flows in dark
gloom between two vertical cliffs of limestone rocks.
Ord. Sur., sh. 55, 1869.
Fendoch, an ancient camp in Monzie parish, Perth-
shire, on the high ground at the lower end of the Sma'
Glen or deep narrow defile of Glenalmond, 9 furlongs
W by N of BUCHANTY, and 3 miles NE of Monzio
church. Overlooked by a native strength upon DUN-
MORE, it is traditionally called the Roman Camp, and
may be truly regarded as the work of the Roman
legions under Agricola or one of his successors. It
measures 180 paces in length by 80 in breadth, and
is alleged to have had accommodation for 12,000 men ;
it was defended on two sides by water, on the other side
by morass and precipice ; and it continued till about
the beginning of the present century to retain consider-
able portions of both rampart and fosse, but has subse-
quently been greatly levelled by tillage and road-making
operations. A moor immediately E of it was, till a
recent period, dotted with cairns over an extent of
several acres, several of the cairns measuring from 10
to 14 paces in diameter ; and it is thought, from the
number and size of these cairns, and from human re-
mains having been found beneath them, to have been
the scene of some great ancient battle. Ord Sur., sh.
47, 1869.
Fenella, several localities in the SW and S of Kincar-
dineshire. Strathfenella Hill, in the western vicinity
of Fordoun village, is a crescent-shaped isolated ridge
3 miles long, and 1358 feet high. Fenella Strath, to
FENWICK
the N of the hill, is a pleasant vale traversed by Luther
Water. Fenella Castle, 1 mile W of Fettercairn village,
is the vestige of an ancient structure, situated on an
eminence, enclosed by an inner and an outer wall, and
surrounded on three sides by a morass. Fenella Den,
in St Cyrus parish, is traversed by a burn running to
the North Esk river, making a cascade of 65 feet in fall,
and crossed by two handsome bridges, one of them
120 feet high. All these take their name from Fenella,
daughter of the Mormaer of Angus, and wife of the
Mormaer of the Mearns, who in 994 is said to have slain
King Kenneth III. at Fenella Castle, to revenge the
death of her son. 'Not only Hector Boece,' says Dr
Hill Burton, 'but the older and graver chroniclers,
Fordun and Wyntoun, bring out this affair in a highly
theatrical shape. We are to suppose that the victim
has been lured in among the avenger's toils. He was
led into a tower of the castle " quhilk was theiket with
copper, and hewn with mani subtle mouldry of flowers
and imageries, the work so curious that it exceeded all
the stuff' thereof." So says the translator of Boece. In
the midst of the tower stood a brazen statue of the king
himself, holding in his hand a golden apple studded
with gems. " That image," said the Lady Fenella, "is
set up in honour of thee, to show the world how much
I honour my king. The precious apple is intended for
a gift for the king, who will honour his poor subject by
taking it from the hand of the image." The touching
of the apple set agoing certain machinery which dis-
charged a hurdle of arrows into the king's" body. The
trick is copied from some of those attributed to the
Vehmic tribunals. The picturesque district between
Fettercairn and the sea is alive with traditions of
Fenella and her witcheries' (Hist. ScotL. i. 339, ei
1876).
Fenton Barns. See DIRLETON.
Fenwick, a village and a parish in Cunninghame dis-
trict, Ayrshire. The village stands 430 feet above sea-
level on the right bank of Fenwick Water, 4J miles
NNE of Kilmarnock, under which it has a post office
with money order and savings' bank departments. Pop.
(1871) 469, (1881)866, (1891) 327.
The parish is bounded NE by Eaglesham in Renfrew-
shire, E and SE by Loudoun, S by Kilmarnock, SW by
Kilniaurs and Dreghorn, W by Stewarton, and NW by
Stewarton and by Mearns in Renfrewshire. Its utmost
length, from E to W, is 8 miles ; its breadth, from N
to S, varies between 2 and 5J miles ; and its area is
18,161^ acres, of which 57 are water. Crawfurdland and
Fenwick Waters, gathering their head-streams from
Eaglesham, run west-south-westward and south-west-
ward across the parish, and, passing into Kilmarnock,
there unite to form Kilmarnock Water ; whilst Loch
GOIN or Blackwoodhill Dam (7 x 3 furl.) just touches
the north-eastern boundary. The surface sinks, below
Dalmusternock, in the furthest S, to 340 feet above sea-
el, and rises thence east-north-eastward to 714 feet
at Airtnock, 836 at Greenhill, 807 at Crins Hills, and
932 near the eastern border; north-north-eastward or
northward to 785 at Dicks Law, 914 near Loch Coin
556 at East Pokelly, 754 at Greelaw, and 876 at Drumboy
Hill. Thus, though, as seen from the hills of Craigie
n Kyle, Fenwick looks all a plain, it really attains no
nconsiderable altitude, and from many a point com-
mands far-reaehing views of Kyle and the Firth of
Clyde, away to the heights of Carrick and the Arran
nd Argyllshire mountains. Originally, for the most
3art, fen or bog, the land, in spite of a general scarcity
f trees, now wears a verdant, cultivated aspect, bein"
chiefly distributed into meadow and natural pasture.
Fossiliferous limestone is plentiful ; in the W are a free-
itone quarry, and a thin seam of coal ; and seams of
ronstone, with coal and limestone, are on the Rowallan
sstate. This estate was held from the 13th till the be-
ginning of the 18th century by the Mures of Rowallan,
of whom a curious ttistorie, published at Glasgow in
825, was written by Sir William Mure (1594-1657), ' a
aan 'we have it on his ipse dixit' that was pious
and learned, had an excellent rein in poesie, nnd much
13
FERDUN
delyted in building and planting.' His son and
grandson both were zealous Covenanters; and during
the former's time the celebrated William Guthrie, who
was minister of Fenwick from 1644, is said to have held
conventicles in the house of Rowallan after his ejection
(1664). Fitly enough, the sufferings of the martyrs
and confessors of the Covenant were chronicled in the
Scots Worthies of a native of Fenwick, John Howie
of Lochgoin (1735-91). He was descended from a
"Waldensiau refugee who had settled here so long ago as
1178 ; and Lochgoin, in the days of his great-grand-
father, had twelve times been pillaged by the persecutor.
In his own day that ancient and sequestered dwelling
became a kind of covenanting reliquary, wherein were
enshrined the Bible and sword of Paton, the standard
of Fenwick parish, the drum that was sounded at
Drumclog, and so forth. To revert to Rowallan, it
passed, through an heiress, to the fifth Earl of LOUDOUN.
Disjoined from Kilmarnock in 1642, Fenwick is in the
presbytery of Irvine and synod of Glasgow and Ayr;
the living is worth 185. The parish church, at the
village, was built in 1643, and contains 850 sittings.
It retains its original black oak pulpit, with a half-
hour sand-glass; and the jougs still hang from the S
gable. In 1889-90 it underwent extensive renovation,
which cost about 600. There are also Free and U.P.
churches; and two public schools, Fenwick and Hair-
shaw, with respective accommodation for 131 and 65
children have an average attendance ol about 85 and
35, and grants amounting to nearly 95 and 40. Pop.
(1881) 1152, (1891) 1007. Ord. Sur., sh. 22, 1865.
Ferdun, a streamlet of Fordoun parish, Kincardine-
shire. Formed by two burns that descend from the
frontier Grampians, and unite at Clattering- Briggs, it
runs 5| miles south-south-eastward, past the W end of
Strathfenella Hill, to a confluence with Luther Water,
1J mile W of Laurencekirk. Ord. Sur., sh. 66, 1871.
Fereneze or Ferneze, a range of hills on the mutual
border of Abbey and Neilston parishes, Renfrewshire,
culminating, 1J mile W by S of Ban-head, at 725 feet
above sea-level.
Fergus, a lake (3x1 furl.) on the mutual border of
Ayr and Coylton parishes, Ayrshire, 4J miles SE of Ayr
town. It has an islet in its centre, contains pike, and
sends off a rivulet 1 mile southward through Loch
Snipe to Loch Martnaham. Ord. Sur., sh. 14, 1863.
Fergushill, a quoad sacra parish and a collier village
in Kilwinning parish, Ayrshire. The q. s. parish com-
prises parts of Irvine, Kilwinning, and Stewarton
parishes. Founded about the year 1835, the village,
If mile E of Kilwinning town, has a public school for
the children of the colliers and the parish church. Pop.
of village (1891) 412; of g. s. parish (1891) 2032.
Ferguslie, a western suburb of Paisley, in Renfrew-
shire. It lies within Paisley parliamentary burgh, and
was built on an estate which belonged for some time to
the monks of Paisley, but was afterwards divided. An
old castle stood on the estate, and has left some remains;
and a modern mansion, called Ferguslie House, is now
on it. See PAISLEY.
Ferguston, a farm, near Bearsden station, in New
ick parish, Dumbartonshire, retaining, on the
face of a hill, a reach of the fosse of Antoninus' Wall.
Ferintosh, a former detached section of Nairnshire, at
the head of Cromarty Firth, surrounded by Ross and
Cromarty, and lying about 2J miles SE of Dingwall.
It had for some years previous to 1891 been treated as
part of Ross and Cromarty for most county purposes,
and in that year the Boundary Commissioners com-
pleted the transference by disjoining the detached sec-
tion from Nairnshire and annexing it to the united
county of Ross and Cromarty. It forms the central
district of the united parish of Urquhart and Logic-
Wester; comprises part of Mullbuie, and part of the
strath at that ridge's south-western base ; is bounded
along the W for 2J miles, by the river Conan and the
upper part of Cromarty Firth; and comprises 6385 acres
of land, partly moor, partly pasture, but chiefly arable.
The barony of Ferintosh was purchased about 1670 by
FERNIEHERST CASTLE
the Forbeses of CULLODEN, who here have a mansion,
Ryefield Lodge; and a privilege of distilling whisky on
it, from grain of its own growth free of duty, was
granted in 1689 to Duncan Forbes, father of President
Forbes, but was withdrawn in 1785, being compensated
f 20,000. Great improvements have been
by a gr
carried
47 by reclaiming, draining, &c.
Ferintosh, Newton of, a hamlet in Ferintosh district,
county of Ross and Cromarty, 1| mile ESE of Conan-
Bridge. It has a post office under Dingwall.
Fern, Forfarshire. See FEABN.
FernelL See FAKNELU
Ferneze. FERENEZE.
Fernie, an estate in Monimail parish, Fife, 4 miles W
of Cupar and 3J NNE of Ladybank. It appears to have
been part of the original demesne of the Earls of Fife;
and it retains a baronial fortalice of great antiquity,
once a place of considerable strength, surrounded by
marshy ground.
Fernie, Easter, a hamlet in Monimail parish, Fife,
2| miles W of Cupar.
Ferniegair, a village, with a station in Hamilton
parish, Lanarkshire, on the Lesmahagow railway, at
the junction of the eastward line from Hamilton, 2J
miles NNW of Larkhall. It has a post office under
Hamilton. Pop. (1871) 395, (1881) 551, (1891) 906.
Fernieherst Castle, a border stronghold in Jedburgh
parish, Roxburghshire, on the right bank of Jed Water,
2i miles S by E of Jedburgh town. It was the ancient
seat of the Kerrs of the Lothian line, as CESSFORD was
that of the Roxburghe Kers otFshoots both of the same
Anglo-Norman stock, but wrangling ever as to seniority.
Ralph Kerr about 1350 settled in Teviotdale, and his
seventh descendant is designated of Fernieherst in the
parliament records of 1476. To this date, then, or
somewhat earlier, belonged the original castle, where
Sir Andrew or ' Dand ' Kerr was taken prisoner by the
English under Lord Dacre, after a valiant defence,
24 Sept. 1523. With the aid of D'Esse's French auxili-
aries, his son, Sir John, retook the castle in 1549; and
his son, Sir Thomas, on 22 Jan. 1570, the day after
Moray's murder at Linlithgow, swept over the Border
with tire and sword, hoping to kindle a war that might
lead to Queen Mary's release. For this, in the follow-
ing April, the Earl of Sussex demolished Fernieherst.
which was not rebuilt till 1598; its interior was restored
in 1889-92. Sir Thomas's fourth son was Robert Carr,
Earl of Somerset, Sir Thomas Overbury's murderer;
whilst the eldest son, Andrew, was also ennobled as
Lord Jedburgh in 1622. The third Lord Jedburgh,
Ralph Kerr's twelfth descendant, died without issue
in the year 1692, when the title devolved on his second
cousin once removed, Robert, fourth Earl of Lothian,
who in 1701 was created Marquis of Lothian. (See
NEWBATTLE. ) Not the least interesting of Fernieherst's
many memories is the visit paid to it on 21 Sept. 1803
by Scott and Wordsworth, whose sister writes: ' Walked
up to Fernieherst, an old hall in a secluded situation,
now inhabited by fanners; the neighbouring ground
had the wilduess of a forest, being irregularly scattered
over with fine old trees. The wind was tossing their
branches, and sunshine dancing among the leaves, and
I happened to exclaim, "What a life there is in trees!"
on which Mr Scott observed that the words reminded
him of a young lady who had been born and educated
on an island of the Orcades, and came to spend a sum-
mer at Kelso and in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh.
She used to say that in the new world into which she
was come nothing had disappointed her so much as
trees and woods; she complained that they were life-
less, silent, and, compared with the grandeur of the
ever-changing ocean, even insipid. At first I was sur-
prised, but the next moment I felt that the impression
was natural. ... The valley of the Jed is very
solitary immediately under Fernieherst; we walked
down to the river, wading almost up to the knees in
fern, which in many parts overspread the forest ground.
It made me think of our walks at Allfoxden, and of
our own park though at Fernieherst is no paik at
present and the slim fawns that we used to startle
from their couching-places among the fern at the top of
the hill. We were accompanied on our walk by a
yoang man from the Braes of Yarrow, William Laidlaw,
an acquaintance of Mr Scott's, who, having been much
delighted with some of William's poems which he had
chanced to see in a newspaper, had wished to be intro-
duced to him; he lived in the most retired part of the
.dale of Yarrow, where he had a farm; he was fond of
reading and well informed, but at first meeting as shy
as any of our Grasmere lads, and not less rustic in his
appearance.' See pp. 265-267 of Dorothy Wordsworth's
Tour in Scotland (ed. by Priuc. Shairp, 1874). Ord.
Sur., sh. 17, 1864.
Fernielea. See FERNILEE.
Fernilee, a hamlet on the S border of Galashiels parish,
Selkirkshire, on the left bank of the river Tweed, near
Yair Bridge, 5J miles NNW of Selkirk. Fernilee
mansion here, now a decayed edifice, was the seat of the
Rutherfords, and in one of its turrets the beautiful Miss
Alison Rutherford (1712-94), who in 1731 became the
wife of Patrick Cockburn, advocate, wrote her version
('I've seen the smiling,' etc.) of the Flowers of the
Forest.
Fern-Tower, a mansion in Crieff parish, Perthshire,
on the SE slope of the pine-clad Knock (911 feet),
2 miles NNE of Crieff town. In 1810 Sir David Baird
(1757-1829), the hero of Seringapatam, married Miss
Ann Campbell Preston of Valleyfield and Fern-Tower,
and it was at Fern-Tower that he spent his last years
and died. His widow survived him till 1847 ; and
now the estate belongs to and is one of the Scottish seats
of Lord Abercromby. See TOM-A-CHASTEI,, AIETHREY,
and TULLIBODT.
Ferrintosh. See FERINTOSH.
Ferry. See QUEENSFERRY.
Ferrybank, an estate, with a mansion, in Cupar parish,
Fife, 1 mile SW of the town.
Ferryden, a fishing village in Craig parish, Forfarshire,
on the right bank of the South Esk river, 1 mile above
its mouth, directly opposite MONTROSE, but 1J mile
therefrom by road. Till the river was bridged it was
the ferry-station on the road from Aberdeen, by way of
Montrose, to the S of Scotland. It conducts a fishery
so extensive as to employ about 300 men in boats, to
send off loads of h'sh to the markets of Montrose, Brechin,
Forfar, Dundee, Perth, and other towns, and to supply
immense quantities to fish-curers in Montrose for the
markets of the South. It owns boats and other fishing
appliances to the extent of about 28,000, and its people
are hardy and industrious. It contains a post office
chools, which,
children, h
15..
1520, (18
tteudance of about 160 and
ildren, have an average attendance ot about 16U and
5, and grants of nearly 165 and 135. Pop. (1881)
20, (1891) 1482. Ord. Sur., sh. 57,1868. See And.
Douglas, History of Ferryden (Montrose, 1857).
Ferry, East and West. See BUOUGHTY FEIIRY.
Ferryhill. See ABERDEEN.
Ferry Hill, a peninsula in Inverkeithing parish, Fife,
bearing on its point the village of North Queensferry.
It is connected with the mainland by an isthmus 4J
furlongs broad, and rises to an altitude of 200 feet above
sea-level.
Ferry, Little, a ferry (1 furlong broad) on the mutual
boundary of Dornoch and Golspie parishes, Sutherland,
across the neck of water between Locli Fleet and the sea,
4J miles N by E of Dornoch town. An action was
fought on the N side of it, in 1746, between the
Jacobites and the militia.
Ferry, Meikle, a ferry (5J furlongs broad) on the
mutual boundary of Ross-shire and Sutherland, across
a contracted part of the Dornoch Firth, 4 miles NW of
Tain, and 4| WSW of Dornoch. It formerly was used
as the chief thoroughfare between the eastern parts of
the two counties; but it suffers much obstruction from
winds and currents ; and the road round by Bonar
Bridge, though exceedingly circuitous, has long been
generally preferred.
FERBY-POET-ON-CEAI&
Ferry-Port-on-Craig, a town and a parish in the ex-
treme NE of Fife. Standing on the southern side of
the entrance of the Firth of Tay, the town by water is
7 furlongs S of Broughty Ferry and 3^ miles E by S of
Dundee, whilst by rail it is 11 miles NNE of Cupar
and 56i NNE of Edinburgh by the Forth Bridge. It
sprang into being and took its name from an ancient
ferry (said to be the oldest in Scotland), whose port was
dominated by a rock or craig; and it acquired a great
and sudden increase of prosperity, from the purchase in
Sept. 1842 of the right of ferry by the Edinburgh and
Northern (now the North British) Company. Thence-
forth it came to bo occasionally known as Tayport, a
name that has now almost superseded its older parochial
designation, and under which it became a burgh in
1887. By rail it is in communication with Edinburgh,
Glasgow, and the South, while by the Tay Bridge (see
DUNDEE) it has direct railway connection with Dundee
and the North. Though all carriage traffic has now
ceased at the ferry, steamers still cross nearly every
hour to Broughty Ferry. The burgh is governed by a
provost, two bailies, and six commissioners. Tayport,
besides, is a favourite bathing resort, with many new
villas and cottages commanding delightful views of the
opposite coast ; and employment is furnished to its
townspeople by a flax and jute spinning mill, 2 linen
factories, 2 sawmills, engine works, a bobbin factory,
as also by the valuable salmon fisheries and mussel
dredging of the Tay. It has a post office, with money
order, savings bank, and telegraph departments, a
branch of the North of Scotland Bank, insurance
, ,
Men's Christian Association,
,
agencies, a gaswork, 2 hotels, a public school, the Scot
Young
cemetery, a masonic hall, and a temperance hall, which
, a gaswor
lf club, a
last, erected in 1877, measures 60 by 34 feet, and has
accommodation for 500. The parish church (1825; re-
paired 1882) is a neat edifice, containing 850 sittings;
and other places of worship are Free and U.P. churches
and a Baptist chapel. The railway works include a
large artificial basin; an outer mole or breastwork, con-
structed with great skill and at vast expense, to shelter
this basin from E and N winds; an inner breastwork or
landing-slip, 600 feet long and 30 high; and a quay-wall,
200 feet long, at the eastern end of the basin. The
harbour thus comprises a sheltered floating basin, fully
600 feet long and 200 in average breadth, with a depth
of 28 feet of water at full spring tides, and of not less
than 8 feet at the lowest tides. It is usually full of
vessels taking in cargoes of coal, etc., there being no
coal mines further north of this in Scotland. Pop.
(1831) 1538, (1861) 1773, (1871) 2498, (1881) 2630,
(1891) 2871.
The parish, constituted in 1606. and supposed to have
previously formed part of Leuchars, is bounded N by
the Firth of Tay, E by the German Ocean, SE by
Leuchars, and SW and W by Forgan. Its utmost
length, from WNW to ESE, is 4 miles; its utmost
breadth is If mile; and its area is 4952J acres, of
which 2177J are foreshore. The coast to the E of the
town is flat and for the most part sandy, including
nearly all this large expanse of foreshore, but westward
irregular, and inland the
t at Spearshill, and to 300
and Scotscraig Law. The rocks are
chiefly eruptive, and include considerable quantities of
beautiful spar. In part of the parish the soil, though
light and variable, is kindly and fertile ; and upon
Scotscraig Mains there are a few fields of very superior
land, the entire farm extending over 500 acres. Two
lighthouses, to E and W of the village, serve, with those
on the Forfar shore of the firth, to guide the navigation
of the Tay. An old building, now represented by scanty
vestiges, and usually called the Castle, seems to have
been erected subsequent to the invention of gunpowder,
and was probably designed to act, in concert with
Broughty Castle, for defence of the entrance of the firth.
SCOTSCRAIG is the chief mansion. This parish is in the
presbytery of St Andrews and synod of Fife; the living
is worth 220. The public school, with aecommoda-
15
,
of the town it is rocky and irregular, and inland the
surface rises rapidly to 129 feet at
at Waterloo To
FERRYTOWN-OF-CREE
tion for 576 children, h
, and a grant of over 585. Vauaton (1
5972, 12s. 9d., (1882) 10,168, 14s. 8d., (1892) 10,343,
n average attendance of
about 515, and a grant of over 585. Valuation (1866)
19s. 2d. Pop. (1801) 920, (1841) 1714, (1861) 2013,
(1871) 2674, (1881) 2818, (1891) 3008. Ord. Sur., sh.
49, 1865.
Ferrytown-of-Cree. See CREETOWN.
Feshie, a rapid stream of Alvie parish, SE In
shire, rising among the Grampian Mountains at an
altitude of 2750 feet, and 5J miles W by N of the
meeting-point of Aberdeenshire, Inverness-shire, and
Perthshire. Thence it winds 23 miles northward, mostly
along the Kingussie border, till, nearly opposite Kineraig
station, it falls into the river Spey, after a total descent
of fully 2000 feet. Quite early in its course the Feshie
approaches within J mile of Geldie Burn, a rise of barely
50 feet here parting the basins of the Spey and the Dee.
It was by this route, up Glen Geldie and down Glen
Feshie, that the Queen and the Prince Consort rode from
Deeside to Strathspey on 4th Sept. 1860. (See ALVIE.)
In the great flood of Aug. 1829 the Feshie did enormous
damage, and rose at the romantic old bridge of Inver-
eshie to a height of 25 feet above its ordinary level.
Ord. Sur., shs. 64, 74, 1874-77. See chap. xii. of Sir
Thomas Dick Lauder's Moray Floods (3d ed. 1873).
Feshle-Bridge, a hamlet in Kingussie parish, Inver-
ness-shire, on the left bank of the Feshie, 1J mile above
its mouth, and 2i miles SE of Kineraig station. It has
a post office under Kingussie.
Fetheray. See FIDRA.
Fetlar, an island and a civil parish in the N of Shet-
land. The island lies 2J miles E of Yell, 4 S of Unst,
and 33 N by E of Lerwick, under which it has a post
office. Its greatest length, from NW to SE, is 6J miles;
its greatest breadth is 2f miles; and its area is 10,133
acres. The outline is rendered so irregular by numerous
headlands and sea inlets as to give a large extent of
sea coast. The principal bays or sea inlets are Tresta,
with a sandy beach; Aith, with a pebbly beach; Funzie,
used as a ling fishing station; Grating, with a pebbly
beach; Urie, with a rude pier; Sand, of small extent
and sandy ; and Mowick, used for the transporting
of peats from an inland hill by sea to the other bays
of the island. The interior comprises several hills and
vales, but nowhere exceeds 521 feet above sea-level. The
tocks comprise gneiss, syenite, granite, quartzite, syen-
itic greenstone, mica slate, chlorite slate, clay slate,
serpentine, and diallage rock. Bog iron ore, of a very
rich quality, occurs in peat moss; chromate of iron is
found in the serpentine rock; and some veins of copper
ore have been found. Less than a tenth of the island
is under cultivation, as much which was formerly arable
is now under pasture. Save in the manse garden not a
tree or shrub is anywhere to be seen. Brough Lodge ia
the principal residence. Pop. (1831) 843, (1861) 548,
(1871) 517, (1881) 431, (1891) 363.
The parish until 1891 included also the northern part
of Yell island, bore the name of Fetlar and North Yell,
and had a total area of 26,659 acres. In that year the
Boundary Commissioners curtailed the name of the
parish to Fetlar, and transferred the Yell portion to
the parish of Hid and South Yell under the name of
Yell only._ The parish of Fetlar now consists of th
following islands: Fetlar (10,133 acres), Urie Lingey
"9 acres), and Daaey (23 acres). Sir Arthur Ni '
chief proprietor. In the presbytery of Bu
olson
and synod of Shetland, Fetlar forms one quoad sacra
parish and North Yell another, the former a living
worth 199. Its church, rebuilt in 1790, contains 267
sittings. There is also a Free church of Fetlar; and a
public school, with accommodation for 65 children, has
an average attendance of about 40, and a grant of nearly
50. Pop. (1891) 363.
Fetterangus, a village of Old Deer parish (which was
placed by the Boundary Commissioners in 1891 wholly
in Aberdeenshire), 5 furlongs from the right bank of N
Ugie Water, and 2 miles NNW of Mintlaw, under which
it has a post office. _Here is a public school. Pop. (1871)
Fettercairn (10th century, Fotherkern; Wyntoun'a
Cronykil, Fethyrkerne; Hollinshed, Fethircarne mean-
ing the cairn of the jutting eminences or of the green
acclivity), a village and a parish of SW Kincardineshire.
A burgh of barony, the village stands, 220 feet above
sea-level, at the confluence of Crichie and Balnakettlo
Burns, 10| miles NNE of Brechin, and 4| WNW of
Laurencekirk, under which there is a post office, with
money order, savings bank, insurance, and telegraph
departments. It has, besides, a branch of the North of
Scotland Bank, a national security savings bank, in-
surance agencies, 2 hotels, a gaswork, a public hall with
library, reading, and billiard rooms, quoit, cricket, golf,
and curling clubs, a farmers' club, and a distillery.
At the W end of the bridge a graceful triumphal arch
has been erected to commemorate the royal visit of
20 Sept. 1861, a visit thus described in the Queen's
Journal : ' At a quarter-past seven o'clock we reached
the small quiet town, or rather village, of Fettercairn,
for it was very small not a creature stirring, and
we got out at the quiet little inn, "Eamsay Arms,"
quite unobserved, and went at once upstairs. There
was a very nice drawing-room, and, next to it, a
dining-room, both very clean and tidy, then to the
left our bed-room, which was excessively small, but
also very clean and neat, and much better than at
Grantown. Alice had a nice room, the same size as
ours; then came a mere morsel of one (with a "press-
bed "), in which Albert dressed; and then came Lady
Churchill's bedroom just beyond. Louis [Prince Louis
of Hesse] and General Grey had rooms in an hotel,
called "The Temperance Hotel," opposite. We dined
at eight, a very nice, clean, good dinner. Grant
and Brown waited. They were rather nervous, but
General Grey and Lady Churchill carved, and they
had only to change the plates, which Brown soon got
into the way ol doing. A little girl of the house came
in to help but Grant turned her round to prevent her
looking at us! The landlord and landlady knew who
we were, but no one else except the coachman, and they
kept the secret admirably. The evening being bright
and moonlight and very still, we all went out, and
walked through the whole village, where not a creature
moved ; through the principal little square, in the
middle of which was a sort of pillar or Town Cross on
steps, and Louis read by the light of the moon a pro-
clamation for the collections of charities which was
stuck on it. We walked on along a lane a short way,
hearing nothing whatever not a leaf moving but the
distant barking of a dog! Suddenly we heard a drum
and fifes ! We were greatly alarmed, fearing we had
been recognised ; but Louis and General Grey, who
went back, saw nothing whatever. Still, as we walked
slowly back, we heard the noise from time to time, and
when we reached the inn door we stopped, and saw six
men march up with fifes and a drum (not a creature
taking any notice of them), go down the street, and
back again. Grant and Brown were out, but had no
idea what it could be. Albert asked the little maid,
and the answer was, "It's just a band," and that it
walked about in this way twice a week. How odd!
It went on playing some time after we got home. We
sat till half-past ten working, and then retired to rest.
(Saturday, Sept. 21.) Got to sleep after two or three
o'clock. The morning was dull and close, and misty
with a little rain; hardly any one stirring; but a few
people at their work. A traveller had arrived at night,
and wanted to come up into the dining-room, which
is the "commercial travellers' room;" and they had
difficulty in telling him he could not stop there. He
joined Grant and Brown at their tea, and on his asking
"What's the matter here?" Grant answered, "It's a
wedding party from Aberdeen." At "The Temperance
Hotel " they were very anxious to know whom they had
All, except General Grey, breakfasted a little
fore nine. Brown acted as my servant, brushing my
skirt and boots, and taking any message, and Grant as
Albert's valet. At a quarter to ten we started the same
iy as before, except that we were in the carriage which
got
befor
The paris
by Fordoun, SE by Marykirk, S by Stracathro, i
farshire, and W by Edzell, also in Forfarshire. Its
FETTERCAIRN
Lady Churchill and the General had yesterday. It
unfortunately misty, we could see no distance. The
people had just discovered who we were, and a f<
cheered us as we went along.' The cross referred
here is an octagonal shaft, rising from a circular stepped
basement, and was originally erected at the extinct
town of Kincardine by John, first Earl of Middleton.
It bears his arms and initials, with the Scottish lion
and the date 1670. In the centre of the village there is
also a drinking fountain, a memorial to Sir John H.
Stuart Forbes (1804-66). Pop. of village (1841) 280,
(1861) 339, (1871) 391, (1881) 398, (1891) 358.
The parish is bounded NW by Strachan, NE and E
For-
, Iso'in Forfarshire.
;itmost length, from N to S, is 8| miles; its breadth,
from E to W, varies between 4J furlongs and 4| miles.
The area of Fettercairn was slightly increased in 1891
by the Boundary Commissioners, who transferred to it
the Kincardineshire part of the parish of Edzell. The
North ESK flows 4j miles south-south-eastward along
the Edzell boundary, and for 1J furlongs touches the
parish again at its south-eastern corner; 1 mile N of
Edzell village it is spanned by the romantic Bridge of
Gannochy, which, built in 1732 and widened in 1796,
is founded on two stupendous rocks, and rises to great
height above the river's bed. Black Burn, the Esk's
immediate tributary, drains the level and low-lying
southern interior, which forms a portion of the Howe of
Mearns. The Burn of Garrol, rising on the southern
acclivity of Hound Hillock, runs 5i miles south-east-
ward and south-by-eastward, mainly along the north-
eastern and eastern border, till, at a point 5 furlongs
SE of the village, it is joined by the confluent Crichio
and Balnakettle Burns; as Dourie Burn the united
stream winds If mile onward along the eastern border,
then passes off into Marykirk on its way to Luther
Water, and so ultimately to the North Esk. In the
furthest SE the surface declines to 115 feet above sea-
level, thence rising northwards gently to 194 feet near
Arnhall and 200 at Bogmuir, more rapidly to 428 near
West Woodtown, 1035 near Garrol Wood, and 1698 at
heath-clad Hound Hillock, close to the northernmost
point of the parish. The rocks are partly eruptive,
partly Devonian, including granite, quartzite, mica
slate, greenstone, red sandstone, limestone, etc., which,
in a section along the North Esk, are seen in every
kind of irregular stratification. Very fine porcelain clay
occurs on the banks of Balnakettle Burn; and at Balna-
kettle bog iron ore has been found of the latest forma-
tion. Rather more than half of the entire area is in
tillage, nearly one-seventh is under wood, and the rest
is either pastoral or waste. The soil is deep, strong,
rich loam around the village, but in other parts of the
parish not a little of the land consists of moderate black
loam or stiffish clay. Great improvements have been
carried out within the last forty years on the lands
of Fasque, The Burn, Balmain, and Fettercaim, the
first two of which estates have been noticed senuratclv.
That of Fettercairn or Middleton was held for upwards
of five centuries by the Middleton family, of whom
General Middleton (1610-73) was at the Restoration
created Earl of Middleton and Lord Clermont and
Fettercairn. Forfeited by his son, the second and last
carl, the estate was purchased in 1777 by Sir John
Wishart Belsches or Stuart, Bart., and through his
daughter's marriage (1797) passed to Sir William Forbes,
Bart, of PITSLIGO. His grand-daughter, Harriet Wil-
liamina (d. 1869), in 1858 married Chas. Trefusis, twen-
tieth Baron Clinton of Maxtock since 1299 (b. 1834;
sue. 1866); and their son, Charles John Robert (b.
1863), now holds the estates in Kincardineshire. Fetter-
cairn House, a little N by E of the village, was built in
1666 by the first Earl of Middleton. and enlarged in 1829
by Sir John Stuart-Forbes, and again by Lord Clinton in
1877. Balbegno and Fenella Castle, the chief antiquities,
have separate articles. Fettercaim is in the presbytery
of Fordoun and synod of Angus and Mearns; the living
is worth 307. The parish church, at the village, was
FETTERESSO
built in 1804, and contains 800 sittings. There are also
a Free church and Fasque Episcopal church, St Andrew's ;
and three schools Fettercairn public, Inch public, and
Fasque with respective accommodation for 198, 120,
and 78 children, have an average attendance of 132,
39, and 56, and grants of 124, 9s., 33, 4s., and 52,
7s. 6d. Valuation (1856) 9412, (1882) 12,057, 6s.,
(1892) 10,859, 11s. lid. Pop. (1801) 1794, (1841)
1791, (1861) 1700, (1871) 1539, (1881) 1503, (1891)
1421. Ord. Sur., shs. 66, 57, 1871-68.
Fetteresso (10th century Fodresach), a hamlet and a
coast parish of Kincardineshire. The hamlet lies on the
left bank of Carron Water, 1 mile W of Stonehaven.
The parish contains also all the New Town or northern
part of STONEHAVEN, the post office village of MUCHALLS,
the fishing-villages of Cowie, Stranathro, and Skateraw,
and the stations of Stonehaven, Muchalls, and Newton-
hill. It is bounded N by Maryculter and Banchory-
Devenick, E by the German Ocean, S by Dunnottar, W
by Glenbervie, and NW by Durris. Its utmost length,
from E to W, is 7J miles; its breadth, from N to S,
varies between 5 and 7J miles; and its area is 27,529
acres, of which 223J are foreshore and 61 water.
CAKRON Water runs 6| miles eastward, mainly along
the southern boundary to the sea at Stouehaven,
uniting just above its mouth with COWIE Water, which
here winds 7J miles east-south-eastward, for the first
4 mile along the Glenbervie border, and then through
the southern interior. The central and northern
districts are drained by Muchalls Burn and the Burn of
Elsick, running to the sea, and by Crynoch Burn, flow-
ing east-north-eastward and northward, past Netherley
House, till it passes into Maryculter on its way to the
river Dee. The coast is bold and rocky, niched and
vandyked by a score of small bays and headlands (the
chief of these Garron Point), and rising rapidly to 100
feet and more above sea-level. Inland the surface is
irregular, though nowhere mountainous, the chief eleva-
tions to the S of Cowie Water being Cheyne Hill (552
feet), the Hill of Swanley (700), Elf Hill (715), and the
Hill of Trusta (1051), whilst to the N of it rise Kemp-
stone Hill (432), White Hill (495), Curletlmey Hill
(SOU), Meikle Carewe Hill (872), the Hill of Pitspunkie
(W<>), Craigneil (886), and, on the northern border,
Berry Too (558). The landscape presents a striking
contrast of picturesqueness and the most utter bleak-
ness. The vales of the Carron and the Cowic, and
.spots on the seaboard, are very lovely; but other dis-
tricts are comparatively tame. Gneiss and Old Red
sandstone are the prevailing rocks; but granite, por-
phyry, and chloride slate occur as well. Near Stone-
haven the soil is mostly sharp friable loam, but in the
more inland and higher parts it is an inferior clayey or
moorish loam. Various improvements in the way of
draining and building have been carried out since 1855,
and considerable reclamations effected within this
century. The latest, about 1860, was the dividing of
the commonty of Cowie, '2000 acres or thereby, among
the proprietors interested, who then let it out in small
lots to tenants on improving leases. About 2000 acres
are under wood. Ancient Caledonian remains were
formerly more numerous than now; but Raedyke Camp,
Caledonian, not Roman, one of the many sites of the
Battle of the GRAMPIANS, is still almost entire, occupy-
ing a space of 71 acres on a hill 4 miles NW of Stone-
haven. Another camp, more evidently Roman, was
formerly on ground contiguous to Stonehaven. Numer-
ous tumuli, most of them small, but some of them very
large, are on Kempstone Hill, 2J miles N of the town,
and are supposed to be sepulchral monuments, raised on
battlefield. Remains of a small old castle and of St
Mary's pre-Reformation chapel, are on the coast at
IE. Malcolm's Mount, 1 mile W of Stonehaven,
takes its name from Malcolm I., King of Alban (942-54),
ho, according to the Ulster Annals, was slain here by
the men of Mearns, though later chronicles remove hi.s
death further N to Uluru in Moray. Fetteresso
Castle, near the left bank of Cowie Water, 2 miles W
by S of Stonehaven, stands in a park adorned with
FETTERNEAR
many venerable trees. A seat once of the great Earls
Marischal, it was partly rebuilt and greatly extended
about the year 1830 by the late Colonel Duff, whose
kinsman, Robert William Duff, Esq. (born in 1873; sue.
1895), is present proprietor. (See CULTER, Aberdeen-
shire, and GLASSAVGH. Other mansions, elsewher
noticed,
Cowie, Elsick, Muchalls, Netherley, Ne
ated by
publi
have
tonhill, Rickarton, and Ury. In the presbytery of For-
doun and synod of Angus and Mearns, this parish is
ecclesiastically divided into Fetteresso proper, Cookney
(formed 1859), and Rickarton (1872), the first a living
worth 320. The plain but very ai
Caran's, at Fetteresso hamlet, is still :
walls or shell, and by its large kirkyard, one 01 ocone-
haven's three cemeteries. The present parish church,
near the town, was built in 1810, and, as enlarged and
greatly improved (1876-78) at a cost of 3000, contains
1300 sittings, and possesses a fine organ. Other places of
worship arc noticed undi-r Stonehaven, Cookney, Rickar-
ton, and Muchalls. The eight schools of Cairnhill, Cook-
ney, Muchalls, Netherley, Rickarton, Stonehaven, Tewel,
and Newtonhill-the last Episcopalian, the others all
blic with total accommodation for 1202 children,
attendance of 805, and grants amount-
ing to 837, 11s. 6d. Valuation (1856) 21,147, (1883)
32,730, 12s., (1892) 22.549, 9s. 6d., plus 3816 for
railway. Pop. (1801) 3687, (1831) 5109, (1861) 5527,
(1871) 5665, (1881) 5541, (1891) 5527, of whom 3743
were in Fetteresso registration district, and 3362 in
Fetteresso ecclesiastical parish. Ord. Sur., shs. 67, 66,
1871.
Fetternear, an ancient chapelry and an estate in the
S of Chapel of Garioch parish, Aberdeenshire, near the
left bank of the Don, 1 mile NNW of Kemnay station.
The chapelry was constituted in 1109; its original church
was built in the same year; and ruins of that church or of
a successor of it, together with its cemetery, still exist.
The estate belonged to the bishops of Aberdeen, and,
conveyed by the last Roman Catholic bishop to the
Leslies of Balquhain, is held now by Charles Stephen
Leslie, Esq. (b. 1832 ; sue. 1870). Its mansion was
originally a summer lodging of the bishops when sur-
veying the canons and priests of the chapelry church,
and is now a handsome and commodious modern resi-
dence. A Roman Catholic church, Our Lady of the
Garioch and St John's, was founded near the site of the
ancient church in 1859, but not opened till 1869, and
consists of nave, chancel, porch, and belfry, all built of
granite, with sandstone dressings. Ord. Sur., sh. 76,
1874.
Feuchan. See FEACHAN.
Feugh, Water of, a stream of Aberd
shires, rising, at an altitude of 1800 feet above sea-level,
in the S of Birse parish, close to the Forfarshi
;bord
3 miles WNW of Mount Battock. Thence it winds 19J
miles east-north-eastward either through or along the
borders of Birse, Strachan, and Banchory-Ternan, till it
falls into the Dee opposite Banchory village, after a
total descent of 1640 feet. Its lowest reach is spanned
by the bridge of Feugh, and includes a romantic water-
fall; its principal affluents are the Aan and the Dye,
both separately noticed; and it is a capital trouting
stream, containing also salmon in its lower waters.
Ord. Sur., sh. 66, 1871.
Fewin or Fionn, a loch on the mutual border of Assynt
parish, SW Sutherland, and the Coigach section of
Ross and Cromarty, 3J miles SE of Lochinver. The
lowermost of a chain of lakes in the basin of the river
KIKKAIO, and lying 357 feet above sea-level, it has an
utmost length and width of 2J miles and 3 furlongs, and
teems with beautiful trout, ranging between A lb and 10
Ibs. Ord. Sur., sh. 101, 1882.
Fiag or Fiodhaig, a rivulet in Lairg parish, Suther-
land, issuing from Loch Fiodhaig (1J milex5| furl.;
650 feet), and running 5g miles southward to Loch Shin
(270 feet), at a point 5J, miles ESE of that lake's head.
It traverses a glen called from it Glen Fiodhaig, and
abounds in capital trout, with a few salmon. Ord. Sur.,
sh. 108, 1880.
FIFE
Fiddich, a small river of Banffshire, rising in the S of
Mortlach parish, on the NE slope of Corryhabbie Hill,
at an altitude of 2300 feet, and 44 miles SSE of Ben
Rinnes. Thence it winds 18J miles north-north-eastward
and north-westward, till, alter a total descent of nearly
2000 feet, it falls into the river Spey at Craigellachie
Junction. It is a capital trout and salmon stream; and
its basin is partly an upland glen, partly a beautiful
vale, bearing the name of Glenfiddich or Fiddichside,
and is proverbially notable in its lower reaches for
fertility. Dullan Water is its principal affluent; it
traverses or bounds the parishes of Mortlach, Boharm,
and Aberlour; and it Hows by Dutftown and the ancient
castles of Auchindoun and Balvenie; all three of which
are noticed separately. Ord. Sur., shs. 75, 85, 1876.
Fidra or Fetheray, a rocky basaltic islet of Dirleton
parish, Haddingtonshire, 3 furlongs from the coast, and
2J miles WNW of North Berwick. It has ruins of a
small old chapel; and there is a lighthouse, with group
flashing white, showing two flashes in quick succession,
with intervals of about 15 seconds between the groups,
visible for 17 nautical miles.
Fife or Fifeshire, a maritime county on the E side of
Scotland. It is bounded on the N by the Firth of Tay,
on the E by the German Ocean, on the S by the Firth
of Forth, and on the W by Perth, Clackmannan,
and Kinross shires. Its greatest length, from Fife Ness
west-south-westward to Tony, is 41 j miles; its greatest
breadth in the opposite direction, from Newburgh on the
Tay to Burntisland on the Firth of Forth, is 21 miles;
and its area is 492 square miles or 314,952 acres, of
which 12,338:1 are foreshore and 1082 water. The
western boundary, about 60 miles long, if one follows
its ins and outs, is marked here and there, from S to N,
by Comrie Burn, Loch Glow, Lochornie Burn, Benarty
Hill, and the rivers Leven and Farg, but mostly is arti-
ficial. The northern coast, which has little curvature,
trends mostly in an east-north-easterly direction, and
measures 20J miles in length ; the eastern is deeply
indented by St Andrews Bay or the estuary of the
Eden, and in its southern part forms a triangular
peninsula, terminating in Fife Ness, on the N of the
entrance to the Firth of Forth. The coast measures in
a straight line from Tents Moor Point to Fife Ness 14J
miles, but along its curvatures 24 miles. The southern
coast, 55 miles long, from Fife Ness to North Queensferry
runs generally in a south-westerly direction, and from
North Queensferry to the western boundary takes a west-
north-westerly turn. The shore-line projects slightly at
Elie Ness, Kinghorn Ness, and North Queensferry, and
has considerable bays at Largo and Inverkeithing. It
olfers a pleasing variety of beach and shore, partly
rocky and partly sandy, but generally low and gentle.
The sea has, from time to time, made great encroach-
ments on the shores of File, at Burntisland, Kirkcaldy,
Dysart, Crail, St Andrews, and other places.
Fife, for its size, has a smaller fresh-water area than
has any other Scotch county, smaller indeed than have
several Highland parishes. The only streams of any
consequence are the Eden, winding 29i miles east-
north-eastward to St Andrews Bay; the Leven, flowing
16J miles eastward (the first 1J in Kinross-shire) out of
Loch Leven to Largo Bay; and the Orr, creeping
17 miles east-by-northward to the Leven a little above
Cameron Bridge. The lakes, too, all are small
Kilconquhar Loch (4x3 furl.), in the SE; Kinghorn
Loch (l|xli, furl.), Camilla Loch (2x1 furl.), Loch
Gelly (5|x3| furl.), Loch Fitty (8x2 furl.), and Loch
Glow (6x3J furl.), in the S and SW ; and Lindores
Loch (6|x3 furl.), in the NW. And the surface,
though mostly undulating or hilly, is nowhere moun-
tainous, the principal heights being Lucklaw Hill (626
feet), in the NE; Kellie Law (500) and Largo Law
(965), in the SE ; Burntisland Bin (632) and Dunearn
Hill (671), in the S; East Lomond (1471) and West
Lomond (1713), near the middle of the W border-
Benarty Hill (1167), Knock Hill (1189), and Saline Hill
(1178), in the SW ; and Green Hill (608), Black Craig
(665), Norman's Law (850), and Lumbenny Hill (889),
in the NW. So that Mr Hutchison is fully justified m
saying that ' the physical aspect of ' Fife possesses
nothing specially remarkable, and, compared with por-
tions of the contiguous counties, may he described as
rather tame. Geologically, it consists of one or two
extensive open valleys and some smaller ones, with the
alternating high lands, and then a gradual slope all
round the coast towards the sea. Lofty mountains
there are none ; only hills, of which the principal are
Wilkie's "ain blue Lomonds," Largo Law, and Nor-
man's Law. The Eden and the Leven, with some
tributary streams, are the only rivers in the interior ;
but the absence of any imposing volume of water inland
is amply atoned for by the two noble estuaries of the
Forth and the Tay, which, with the German Ocean,
surround three-fourths of the county. Fife, as a whole,
although the surface is nowhere flat, but pleasantly
undulating all over, except, perhaps, in what is called
the "Howe of Fife," is lacking in both the picturesque
and the sublime, and it has never been regarded as a
hunting-field for tourists. Its grand attractive feature,
however, in the way of scenery, is the sea-coast. "He,"
says Defoe, " that will view the county of Fife, must go
round the coast;" and Mr Billings remarks that "a
ramble amongst the grey
ancient Kingdom of Fife
old towns which skirt the
night well repay the archi-
tectural or archaeological investigator." We might add
that the tourist who was daring enough to abjure
Schiehallion and Loch Maree for a season, and "do"
the coast of Fife instead, would be equally surprised
and delighted with his vacation trip ; a seaboard which
is begirt with a score or more of towns and townlets,
nearly as many ruined castles, several islands, and bays
and creeks and picturesque projections innumerable.'
Geology. The oldest rocks in the county belong to
the volcanic series of the Lower Old Red Sandstone.
The members of this series, consisting of a great succes-
sion of lavas and tuffs, can be traced from the Ochils
where they are folded into a broad anticline NE by the
Sidlaws to Dunnottar in Kincardineshire. The high
grounds bounding the Howe of Fife on the N side are
composed of these igneous materials, indeed they cover
the whole area between Damhead and Tayport. They
are inclined to the SSE at gentle angles, so that we
have only the southern portion of the anticlinal arch
represented in the county. Lithologically these ancient
lavas are composed of red and purple porphyrites,
which, at certain localities, are associated with ex-
tremely coarse agglomerates. In the neighbourhood of
Auchtermuchty, and even to the E of that locality,
the agglomerates present appearances indicating partial
rearrangement by water ; indeed in some places they
are indistinguishable from conglomerates formed by
aqueous action. When we come to describe the pro-
longations of these rocks in Forfarshire and Kincardine-
shire it will be seen that the volcanic accumulations,
which, in Perthshire and Fifeshire, have hardly any
intercalations of sedimentary material, are associated in
the former counties with conglomerates, sandstones, and
shales, till at Dunnottar they are represented by a few
thin sheets of porphyrite. It is probable, therefore, that
the partially waterworn agglomerates at Auchtermuchty
aro indications of the change of physical conditions.
On the slope overlooking the Tay, near the village of
Balmerino, some thin beds of sandstone and shales are
intercalated with the porphyrites which have yielded
remains of fishes similar to those obtained in the For-
farshire flagstones.
A long interval must have elapsed between the close
of the Lower and the beginning of the Upper Old Red
.Sandstone periods, which is indicated by a strong un-
conformity between the two series. This vast interval
was characterised by certain striking physical changes
which may be briefly summarised. Between the Ochils
and the flanks of the Grampians a great succession of
sedimentary deposits, nearly 10,000 feet in thickness,
rests conformably on the volcanic series, which original!;
extended far to the S of their present limits,
they must have completely buried the volcanic
lations, though not necessarily to the extent iudicaled
by their thickness N of the Ochils. The Grampian
chain formed the northern margin of the inland sea in
which these deposits were laid down, and the sediment
may have decreased in thickness in proportion to the
distance from the old land surface. At any rate, during
the interval referred to, the volcanic rocks and overlying
sedimentary deposits were folded into a great anticlinal
arch, the latter were removed by denudation from the
top of the anticline, and the volcanic series was exposed
to the action of atmospheric agencies. Further, the
great igneous plateau, during its elevation above the
sea-level, must have been carved into hills and valleys
ere the deposition of the Upper Old Red Sandstone.
The members of the latter series are traceable from
Loch Leven through the Howe of Fife by Cupar to the
sea coast. Along this tract they rest unconfbrmably on
the volcanic rocks just described, and they pass con-
formably below the Cementstone series of the Carboni-
ferous system. They consist of honeycombed red and
yellow sandstones which become conglomeratic towards
the local base, the pebbles being derived from the under-
lying rocks. On the W side of the Lomonds they dip
to the E, while in the neighbourhood of Strathmiglo,
where their thickness must be about 1000 feet, they are
inclined to the SSE. This scries has become famous
for the well-preserved fishes obtained in the yellow sand-
stones of Dura Den, comprising Plianeropleuron Ander-
soni, Pterichthys hydropldlus, Glyptolaemus Kinnairdi,
Glyptopomus minor, Holoptychius Aiidersoni. The last
form seems to have been fossilised in shoals. //<%">'/< tin
nobilissimus and Pterichthys major are found in the
underlying red sandstones.
The Upper Old Red Sandstone is succeeded by the
various divisions of the Carboniferous system which aro
well represented in the county. The succession may be
readily understood from the following table of the strata
given in descending order :
/ / Red sandstones.
Millstone Grit. -! '"'I; 1 , .'i""'"' "" ana C "-
lementstone series comprising
Mark and Mm' shalrs with
marine zones, limestones, sand-
stones with thin seams and
streaks of coal passing con-
l,.nn:il,ly downwards ijitn red
and yellow sandstones (Upper
Old Red Sandstone).
The Cementstone series occupies several detached areas,
and presents two distinct types. Along the county
boundary between Fife and Kinross there is a small
outlier on the N slopes of the Cleish Hills representing
the W type. There the strata consist of blue clays and
sandstones with Cementstone bands and nodules. The
members of this series, of a type approaching that to
the S of St Andrews, crop out also on the W and N
slopes of the Lomonds, and they extend E by Cults
and Ceres to the coast. By far the most important
development of this series, however, occurs in the
triangular area between Elie and St Andrews and round
the shore by Fife Ness. The essential feature of the
group is the occurrence of a great thickness of shales
with marine bands characterised chiefly by 3f mi linn
modioliformis and Schizodus Satteri. These shales alter-
nate with sandstones and limestones, the latter being
charged with true Carboniferous Limestone forms. About
midway between St Monans and Pittenweem on the
coast, the members cf this series pass conformably
below the basement beds of the Carboniferous Lime-
stone with an inclination to the W, and from this
point E to Anstruther there is a steady descending
tingui'shing feature of tl;
is the presence of numer
FIFE
scries for 2 miles. Upwards of 3900 feet of strata are
exposed in this section, and yet the underlying red
sandstones are net brought to the surface. At Anstruther
the beds roll over to the E, and the same strati are re-
peated by gentle undulations as far as Fife Ness. It is
probable, therefore, that the beds at Anstruther are the
oldest of the Comontstone scries n >w exposed at the
face between Elie and St Andrews. From the vulu
researches of Mr Kirkhy, it appears that all the fossils,
save Sanguinolitcs Abdensis, which are found in the
marine bands near the top of the series at Pittenweem,
occur also in the Carboniferous Limestone. Not until
nearly 3000 feet of strata have been passed over, do we
find forms that are peculiar to this horizon, some of
which are given in the following list : Littorina
scotoburdigalensis, Cypricardia bicosta, Myalina modioli-
fnrmis, Sanyuinolites Abdensis, Schi;odus Salteri, Bairdia
nitida, Cythere superba, KirTcbya spiralis. Another dis-
of this type of the Cementstone series
imerous cases of ostracod crustaceans,
of which the most abundant form is Leperditia Okeni
var. Scotobmdigalensis. Numerous thin seams and
streaks of coal, varying from a few inches to 2 feet in
thickness, are exposed in this coast section. They rest
on fireclays which are charged with stigmarian rootlets.
The Cementstone group is likewise met with in the
neighbourhood of Burntisland, an area which is invested
with special importance on account of the great develop-
ment of volcanic rocks to be described presently. In
this district they occupy a semicircular area extending
from Inverkeithing Bay to near Kirkcaldy. A line
drawn from Donibristle N by Camilla Loch near Auchter-
tool, thence winding round Raith Park and S to the
sea-shore at Seaficld Tower, marks the rim of the semi-
circle. Along this line they pass conformably below
the basement beds of the Carboniferous Limestone. The
sedimentary strata with the interhedded volcanic rocks
are folded into an anticlinal arch, the lowest beds being
exposed rear Burntisland where they are inclined to the
N and NNW. From the presence of marine zones in
the Calciferons Sandstones of this area, it is evident
that the Burntisland district forms a connecting link be-
tween the types represented in Midlothian and between
Pittenweem and St Andrews. The Grange limestone
at Burntisland is regarded as the equivalent of the
Burdiehouse Limestone to the S of Edinburgh.
In the W of Fife the members of the Carboniferous
Limestone lap round the anticlinal arch of the
Cementstone series at Burntisland, and they cover the
whole of the area between that arch and the Cleish
Hills. To the E and W they pass below the Dysart
and Kinglassie coal-fields respectively, reappearing to the
N in the Lomond Hills, and being traceable from thence
into East Fife as far as Wcstiield and Kadernie. As in
other districts in Scotland this series is divisible into
three groups, described in the foregoing table. The
limestones of the lowest group occur at Roseobie, Dun-
fcrmline, Potmetal, and on the Lomond Hills. The
middle division consists of a succession of sandstones
and shales with coals and ironstones, comprisin" the
Torryburn, Oakley, Saline, Dunfermline, Kirkcaldy
and Markinch coal-liclds. Indeed, this group forms the
chief source of the gas coals and blackband ironstones
of Fife. The limestones of the upper group are com-
paratively insignificant. They crop out on the coast E
of Pathhcad, where they pass below the Millstone Grit.
The latter series, consisting of coarse sandstone and
I'onglcmierMte, forms a narrow border round the Dysart
coal-field on the W and the Kinglassie coal-field on the
S. It is well exposed on the shore to the E of Path-
head, where it is rapidly succeeded by the true Coal-
measures. The latter are best developed in the Dysart
and Leven coal-fields, though a small area is also met
with at Kinglassie. This series consists of sandstones,
shales, numerous workable coal seams, clayhand iron-
stones, and an overlying group of red sandstones. In
the Dysart and East Wemyss coal-field there are no
fewer than fourteen seams of coal which are inclined to
the E at angles varying from 10 to 20.
20
"S
FIFE
A remarkable feature of the Carboniferous system as
represented in Fife is the great development of contem-
poraneous and intrusive volcanic rocks. In this county
volcanic activity seems to have begun somewhat later than
in the Edinburgh district, and to have been partly coeval
with that in West Lothian. In the neighbourhood of
Burntisland there must have been a continuation of the
volcanic action from the horizon of the Grange Lime-
stone in the Cementstone series to the basement beds of
the Carboniferous Limestone. The basaltic lavas and
tuffs which were ejected during that period are admir-
ably displayed on the shore section between Burntisland
and Seafield Tower near Kirkcaldy, where they are
interstratified with marine limestones, sandstones, and
shales. But on the Saline Hill in West Fife there is
conclusive evidence that volcanoes must have been
active even during the deposition of the coal-bet
series of the Carboniferous Limestone. That
marks the site of a vent from which tuff was ejected
which was regularly interbedded with the adjacent
strata. Seams of coal and ironstone are actually worked
underneath the tuff on the S side of Saline Hill, and not
far to the E a bed of gas coal is mined on the slope of
the Knock Hill which forms another ' neck ' belonging
to that period.
In East Fife, as the researches of Sir Arehd. Geikie
have conclusively shown, there is a remarkahle develop-
roent of volcanic vents which are now filled with tuff or
agglomerate. Upwards of fifty of these ancient orifice?
occur between Leven and St Andrews, piercing the
Calciferous sandstones, the upper or true Coal-measures,
and even the overlying red sandstones, which are the
youngest members of the Carboniferous system. It is
evident, therefore, that most of these 'necks' must
be of later date than the Carboniferous period. Nay,
more, from the manner in which they rise along lines
of dislocation, and pierce anticlinal arches as well as
synclinal troughs, from the way in which the volcanic
ejectamenta rest on the denuded edges of the Carboni-
ferous Limestone series, there can be no doubt that they
were posterior to the faulting, folding, and denudation
of the strata. Sir Archd. Geikie has suggested that
they probably belong to the period of volcanic activity
indicated by the ' necks ' of Permian ago in Ayrshire.
Largo Law is a striking example of one of the cone-
shaped necks, and so aTso is the Binn Hill at Burnt-
island. Another great vent, upwards of J mile in
length, occurs on the shore at Kincraig Point, E of
Largo Bay, which is filled with tuff. In this case the
lull is pierced by a mass of columnar basalt, the columns
rising to a height of 150 feet above the sea-level. The
occurrence of veins and masses of basalt is a common
feature among these necks, but it is seldom that such a
remarkable example of columnar structure is displayed
in the series. The Rock and Spindle near St Andrews
is an excellent instance of the radial arrangement of the
columns.
No less remarkable are the great intrusive sheets of
basalt and dolerite which are conspicuously developed
in the Carboniferous rocks of Fife. Indeed, in none of
the other counties in Scotland do they occur in such
numbers. From the Cult Hill near Saline, they are
traceable E along the Cleish Hills to Blairadam. They
cap Benarty and the Lomonds, and from that range
they may be followed in irregular masses to St Andrews
and Dunino. Another belt of them extends from
Torryburn by Dunfermline to Burntisland, thence
winding round by Auchtertool to Kirkcaldy. They
occur mainly about the horizon of the lowest limestones
of the Carboniferous Limestone series, and are, in all
probability, the E extension of the intrusive sheets at
Stirling Castle and Abbey Craig. But in addition to
these great intrusive masses of Carboniferous age, there
are various dykes of basalt having a general E and W
trend, which may probably belong to the Tertiary
period. Of these, the best examples are met with in the
Old Red Sandstone area, near Damhead, and W of
Strathmiglo.
The direction of the ice flow during the glacial period
FIFE
was SE across the Ochils, but as the ice sheet approached
the Firth of Forth it veered round to the E and ENE.
An instance of this latter movement occurs near Petty-
cur N of Burntislaud, where the striae point E 15 N.
Throughout the county there is a widespread covering
of boulder clay, which, like the deposit on the SE
slopes of the Sidlaws, contains an assemblage of
boulders derived from the Grampians. A great series
of sands and gravels rests on the boulder clay at
certain localities, which seems to have a direct connec-
tion with the retirement of the ice. Where there are
open valleys forming passes across the Ochils, great
ridges of gravel are met with parallel to the trend
of the valleys. Near the mouths of the passes the
material is very coarse, but it gradually becomes finer
and more water-worn as we advance southwards.
Similar deposits are met with in the E of Fife, which
are, to a large extent, of the same origin. There is no
trace of the later glaciation within the county.
The 100-feet beach is traceable round the greater part
of the coast-line, being well developed at Dunfermline,
Kirkcaldy, and in the Howe of File. The arctic shells
at Elie occur in the fine clays of this beach, and in a
similar deposit of the same age near Cupar bones of a
seal have been exhumed. Along the estuary of the Tay
this beach forms but a narrow terrace of gravel, owing
to the comparatively steep slope flanking the shore. In
that neighbourhood there are indications of an old sea
margin at the level of 75 feet, as if there had been a
slight pause in the upheaval of the land. The 50 and
25 feet beaches are well represented, the one merging
into the other. In the East Neuk of Fife the latter is
bounded by an inland cliff, in which sea-worn caves are
The soil we abridge from Mr Macdonald to the N
of the Eden is quick and fertile, nowhere very deep or
very strong, but kindly, highly productive, and specially
suited for the cultivation of grass. The Howe of Fife
or Stratheden, comprising both sides of the Eden up as
far as Cupar, has a rich fertile soil, parts of it being
exceedingly productive. S of the Eden the land rises
gradually, till, in Cameron parish, it reaches 600 feet.
On this high land the soil is cold and stiff and of a
clayey character, with a mixture of lime. Round Lady-
bank it is very light and shingly, as though its richest
earthy coating had been swept oil' by a current of water.
The land on the rising-ground in Collessie, Monimail,
Cults, and Kettle parishes is heavier and more valuable
than in the valley of Ladybank. In the neighbourhood
of the Lomonds and on the high land of Auchtermuchty,
Leslie, and Kinglassie the soil is light, but sharp and
valuable for grass; in Beath, Auchterderran, and Bal-
lingry it is principally cold and stilf, though several
excellent highly-cultivated farms are in these parish*-.-.
A good deal of land on the N side of Dunfermline is
strong retentive clay, on the S is thin loam with a
strong clayey subsoil. In Saline, Torryburn, and Car-
and is generally very fertile. All along the coast, too,
though variable in composition, it is rich and productive.
The 'Laich of Dunfermliue' has a strong clayey soil, very
fertile on the whole, but somewhat stiff to cultivate.
The soil between Inverkeithing and Leven varies from
light dry to strong clayey loam, rendered highly pro-
ductive and friable by superior cultivation; it is deep
rich loam about Largo, and light in Elie, both equally
fertile and productive; and along the E coast it is deep,
strong, and excellent, consisting chiefly of clay and rich
loam. Near St Andrews the soil is by no means heavy,
while the section NE of Leuchars village is sandy and
very light, especially on the E coast, where a large tract
of land known as Tent's Moor is wholly covered with
sand, and almost useless for agricultural purposes. In
Forgan and part of Ferryport-on-Craig the soil, though
light and variable, is kindly and fertile.
In the whole of Scotland the percentage of cultivated
area is fully 247, in Fife it rises as high as 78 "9, a
figure approached by only six other counties Linlith-
gow (76-6), Berwick (65), Haddington (65 '5), Kinross
FIFE
(63-8), Renfrew (58 -2), and Edinburgh (58 '3). But
great improvements have been effected since 1850 in
the way of draining and re-draining, fencing, building,
etc. The six-course shift of rotation predominates ;
leases are nearly always for 19 years; and 'in the
matter of land apportionment Fife is almost all that
could be desired.' Fife is not a great county for live-
stock, and the majority of its cattle are Irish bred.
The few cows kept are crosses mostly of somewhat
obscure origin ; the bulls are almost all shorthorns.
Since the dispersion of the famous Keavil herd in 1869,
the breeding of pure shorthorns has all but ceased.
Neither is sheep-farming practised to the extent one
might look for, soil and climate considered. The sheep
are almost all hoggs good crosses between Cheviot
ewes and Leicester tups with a few black-faced in the
western and higher parts of the shire. Nearly all the
farm-horses are Clydesdales or have a strong touch of
the Clydesdale, powerfully built and very hardy, great
care having been exercised of recent years in the selec-
tion of stallions, with highly successful results. Many
good ponies are kept, and hunters and carriage-horses
are generally of a superior class. Swine are not nume-
rous, but have been greatly improved by crossing the
native sows with Berkshire boars. The following table
gives the acreage of the chief crops and the number of
live-stock in Fife in different years:
1S75.
1881.
1891.
1896.
Wheat,
16,748
13,142
11,525
7,873
Barlev
Oats,'
30,037
30,024
23,407
39,610
88,282
41,500
Sown Grasses, . .
56.43H
62J47
65,833
Potatoes, ....
17.746
19,155
15^436
14,855
Turnips, ....
28,514
27,547
28,786
25,371
Cattle, . ....
Sheep,
39,540
69,609
39,076
69275
48,168
19,632
Kfiilis
Horses, ....
9,699
10,166
10,290
Swine,
6,060
5,366
4^681
6,855
The yearly rainfall varies considerably, from 214
inches at Cupar to 36J at Loeh Leven, which, though
Kinross-shire, may be taken as representing the
western portion of the Fife peninsula. Still it is not
by any means heavy; and the climate, greatly improved
by thorough drainage, and modified by the nearness of
the sea, is mild and equable. Westerly winds prevail,
and the biting E winds that sometimes sweep the coast
are broken inland by the numerous belts and clumps of
plantation that stud the fields. Less than one-twenty-
third of the whole of Scotland is under woods; in Fife
the proportion is fully one-sixteenth, viz., 19,648 acres,
a figure surpassing twenty-five, and surpassed by only
seven, of the Scottish counties. Dr Samuel Johnson
remarked in 1773 ' that he had not seen from Berwick
to St Andrews a single tree which he did not believe to
have grown up far within the present century.' So far
the remark did good, that, widely read by the landed
gentry, it stimulated the planting lever to intensity,
and hundreds of acres of hillside now are clothed with
trees which otherwise might have retained their primeval
bareness. It was false, none the less, as shown by five
tables in Transactions of the Highland and A.jrifnltnml
Satiety for 1879-81, where sixteen of the 'old and re-
markable ' trees described are trees of Fife 4 Spanish
chestnuts at Aberdour and Balmerino, 2 ash-trees at
Ottcrston and Donibristle, 3 sycamores at Aberdour and
Donibristle, 1 oak at Donibristle, and 6 beeches at
Otterston. Donibristle, Kellie Castle, Leslie House, and
Balmerino. To which might have been added the two
famous walnuts of Otterston, planted in 1589, and felled
by the great gale of January 1882.
The damask manufacture of DUNFEKMLINE is probably
unequalled in the world for excellence of design and
beauty of finish. Other linen manufactures, compris-
ing sail-cloth, bed-ticking, brown linen, dowlas, duck,
checks, and shirting, together with the spinning of tow
Included all horses
.nly those engaged I
and flax, are carried on at Dunferraline, KIEKCAI.DY,
Dysart, Leslie, AttohtermncWy, Kingskettle, Ladybauk,
Strathmiglo, Falkland, Tayport, and other places.
Collieries and limestone quarries are numerous, some of
the former being very extensive, and employing a large
number of hands. Breweries are numerous, and there
are several pretty extensive <iiMilImes. The manufac-
ture of floor-cloth (at Kirkcaldy), ironfounding and the
making of machinery, the tanning of leather, the manu-
facture of earthenware and porcelain, paper, and lishing-
uets, coach-huilding, ship-building in iron and wood,
and the making of "bricks and tiles, are also carried on.
The maritime traffic is not confined to any one or two
ports, but diffuses itself round nearly all the coast, at
the numerous towns and villages on the Tay, the German
Ocean, and the Forth, though chiefly on the latter. It
is of considerable aggregate extent, and has grown very
rapidly of recent years, according to the statistics of
the one headport, KIRKCALDY. Lastly, there are the
fisheries, for cod, ling, hake, etc., in the home waters,
and for herrings as far afield as Wick and Yarmouth.
Steam ferries are maintained between Newport and
Dundee, between Ferryport-on-Craig (Tayport) and
Brouglity Ferry, between Burntisland and Granton, and
between North Queensferry and South Queensferry.
Amain line of railway, connecting by the Forth Bridge
with Edinburgh, goes along the coast to Burntisland and
thence northward to Lady-bank, and
lines the one going north-eastward,
Uysart, strik
forks there int
and at Leuchars Junction turning again north-westward
to the shores of the Tay near Newport, where it crosses
the Tay Bridge to Dundee; the other goes north-west-
ward to Newburgli, and proceeds thence into 1'ertlishire
towards Perth. One branch line leaves Leuchars Junc-
tion and goes NNE to Tayport, then turning west up
the firth joins the main line at the Tay Bridge; while
another branch goes south-eastward to St Andrews, and
meets there the East Fife railway. Another line,
coming eastward from Stirling, passes Alloa, Dunfenn-
line, (Jrossgatcs, and Lochgelly, forming a junction with
the main line at Thornton, l-'rom the last-named station
a railway runs eastward along the coast to Leven, Largo,
Elie, Anstruther, Grail, and St Andrews. It has been
proposed to construct an East Fife Central railway from
Leven to Bonnyton, with a northern branch connecting
with the main line at Dairsie, and another branch going
direct east and connecting with the Anstruther and St
Andrews railway. From Alloa and Kinross a railway
enters the upper reach of Eden valley, passing to the
vicinity of Auchtcrmuehty, and thence >SE to a junction
with the main line at Ladybank. A railway from Cow-
denbeath goes north-north-westward into Kinross-shire,
lloa and Ladybank line at Kinross. A
ay has been constructed by the owner of the pro-
perty, from Thornton to Wemyss, Buckhaven, and
Methyl. The Dunfermline, Kinross, and Glenfir- line
to Perth affords the most direct route to that city from
Edinburgh. Starting from Inverkeithing at the north
end of the Forth Bridge, it runs NW to Dimfeniilinc,
then NE to near Cowdenbeath, where it turns again in
a north-westerly direction through Kinross-shire and
Glenfarg. The Cupar district contains 85 miles of turn-
o join
ailway
ike roads and 120 mil.>s of .statute labour roads; the
. f turnpi
statute labour roads; the St Andrews district, 135J of
.
district, 45.1 of turnpike roads and 49J of
pike roads
Dunfermliu
turnpike roads and 73h of statute labour roads; the
Kirkcaldy district, 77 of turnpike roads and 67J of
statute labour roads; the Cupar and Kinross district,
22J of roads; the Outh and Nivingston district, 27i of
turnpike roads; the Leven Bridge district, 74 of roads.
The Fife boundaries, as affected by the adjoining
counties of Kinross and Perth, underwent considerable
readjustment by the Boundary Commissioners in 1891.
Of those parishes partly in Kinross-shire and partly in
Fife, the Kyelaw detached part of the parish of Port-
inoak, and those portions of the same parish and of Bal-
lingry detached part which lay to the south of the new
channel (called The Cut) of the river Leven, have been
transferred to Fife (to the parish of Kinglassie), while
FIFE
the portions of Kinglassie and of Ballingry detached
part that lay north of The Cut, have been transferred to
Kinross-shire (to the parish of Portmoak). The More-
land portion of Dunfermline (in the extreme north of
the parish), which had been claimed and assessed by
Kinross-shire, was declared by the Commissioners to
form part of that county, and was transferred to the
parish of Cleish. As concerns the county of Perth, the
Perthshire detached parishes of Culross and Tulliallan
have been transferred wholly to Fife; while Abernethy,
which was partly in Perthshire and partly in Fife, lias
been placed entirely in the former county the Easter
Colzie portion of the parish, however, going to the Fife
parish of Newburgh, and the Nochnarrie and Pitloiir
portions to that of Strathmiglo. The parish of Arngask,
which was situated partly in Fife, partly in the county
of Perth, and partly in that of Kinross, was also placed
wholly in Perthshire. Extensive alterations have like-
wise been made on the boundaries of the interior parishes
of Fife, for which, however, see the separate articles.
By the Redistribution of Seats Act of 1885 the county
was divided into two divisions, East and West, each of
which returns one member to Parliament. The con-
stituency in 1896 numbered, East, 9573; West, 11,130.
Royal burghs exercising the parliamentary franchise are
Dunfermline and Inverkeithing, included in the Stir-
ling district of burghs; the Kirkcaldy district of burghs,
comprising Kirkcaldy, Burntisland, Dysart, and King-
horn, with a total constituency of 6234; and the St
Andrews district of burghs, comprising St Andrews,
Anstruther-Easter, Anstruther- Wester, Grail, Cupar,
Kilrenny, and Pittenween, with a total constituency of
3923. The royal burghs not now exercising the parlia-
mentary franchise are Newburgh, Auchtermuchty, Falk-
land, and Earlsferry. Leslie, Leven, Linktowu, West
Wemyss, and Elie are burghs of barony or of regality;
and Ladybank and Lochgelly are police burghs.
Mansions, all noticed elsewhere, are Balcaskie, Bal-
carres, Birkhill, Broomhall, Cambo, Charleton, Craw,
ford Priory, Donibristle, Dysart House, Elie House,
Falkland House, Fordel, Grangemuir, Inchdairnie, Inch-
rye Abbey, Kilconquhar, Largo House, Leslie House,
N 1 aughton, Otterston, Pitcorthie, Raith, Wemyss Castle,
and many others.
The county is governed by a lord-lieutenant, a vice-
lieutenant, forty deputy-lieutenants, a sheriff, two sheriffs-
substitute, and 374 commissioners of supply and justices
of peace. It is divided into an eastern and a western
district, each with a resident sheriff-substitute; and
sheriff ordinary and debts recovery courts are held in
Cupar, Dunfermline, and Kirkcaldy. Sheriff small-debt
courts are also held at Cupar, Dunfermline, Kirkcaldy,
St Andrews, Anstruther. Auchtermuchty, Leven, and
Newburgh. There is a burgh police force in Dunferm-
line (17), and in Kirkcaldy (21); the remaining police
in the county comprise 90 men, under a chief constable,
whose yearly pay is 400.
For County Council representation Fife is divided into
four districts namely, Cupar District, with 10 divisional
members and one representative each for the 4 burghs
of Auchtermuchty, Cupar, Falkland, and Newburgh; St
Andrews District, also with 10 divisional members and
8 representatives two for St Andrews, and one each
for the burghs of Anstruther-Easter, Anstruther- Wester,
Crail, Kilrenny, Pittenweem, and Earlsferry; Kirkcaldy
District, with 14 divisional members and 3 burgh repre-
sentativesone each for the burghs of Burntisland,
Dysart, and Kinghorn; and Dunfermline District, with
9 divisional members and 2 representatives one each
for the burghs of Culross and Inverkeithing. The Council
is divided into the following committees: The Con-
vener's Committee, Local Authority (composed also of
gentlemen who are not councillors), Standing Joint
Committee (composed also of Commissioners of Supply,
with the Sheriff of Fife ex offitio), County Road Board,
Finance and Property Committee, Valuation Committee,
Fife and Kinross District Lunacy Board (including two
representatives from Kinross-shire), Weights and Mea-
sures Committee, Prison Visiting Committee, Tay Ferries
FIFE
Committee, Commissioners under Kirkcaldy Harbour
Acts, Technical Education, and Small Holdings Act
Committee.
The registration county gives off a part of Abernetby
parish to Perthshire, takes in part of Arngask parish
from Perthshire, and had in 1891 a population of
187,601. The number of registered poor in the year
ending 26 Sept. 1894 was 2303; of dependants, 1315.
The expenditure was 34,917. The number of pauper
lunatics was 522, their cost of maintenance being
11,259. The percentage of illegitimate births was
0-8 in 1880, 6 '2 in 1892, and 4 '8 in 1894.
Although sixteenth in size of the thirty-three Scotch
counties, Fife ranks as fifth in respect of rental-roll
(only Aberdeen, Ayr, Lanark, and Perth shires sur-
passing it), its valuation, exclusive of the seventeen
royal burghs, of railways, and of water-works, being
(1815) 405.770, (1856) 543,536, (1865) 581,127,
(1875) 698,471, (1880) 700,651, (1882) 697,448, 17s.,
(1892) 682,255, (1895-96) 667,166. Valuation of rail-
ways and water-works (1882) 62,234, (1892) 106,159,
(1895-96) 117,731; of burghs (1866) 146,129, (1S82)
288,472, (1892) 335,074. In point of population it
stands seventh, the six higher counties being Aberdeen,
Ayr, Edinburgh, Forfar, Lanark, and Renlrew shires.
Pop. (1821) 114,556, (1831) 128,839, (1841) 140,140,
(1851) 153,546, (1861) 154,770, (1871) 160,735, (1881)
171,931, (1891) 190,365, of whom 90,527 were males
and 99,838 females. Houses (1891) inhabited 41,434,
vacant 3267, building 378.
The civil county comprehends sixty-one quoad rici/ia
parishes, with the extra-parochial tract of the Isle of
Hay. There are also twenty quoad sacra parishes and
live chapels of ease belonging to the Church of Scot-
land. The places of worship within the county are,
92 of the Church of Scotland, 55 of the Free Church,
45 of United Presbyterians, 4 of the Congregationalists,
4 of the Evangelical Union, 9 of Baptists, 1 1 of Episco-
palians, and 6 of Roman Catholics. The Established
Synod of Fife, meeting on the second Tuesday of April
and October at Cupar, Dunfermline, Kirkcaldy, and St
Andrews successively, comprehends the presbyteries
of Dunfermline, Kinross, Kirkcaldy, Cupar, and St
Andrews, and thus takes in Kinross-shire and the
Perthshire parish of Muckart. The Free Church Synod'
of Fife, meeting at Kirkcaldy on the second Tuesday of
April, and at Cupar, St Andrews, or Dunfermline on the
second Tuesday of October, comprises presbyteries iden-
tical with those of the Established Church.
It is claimed by the natives of Fife that it lias a more
peaceful history than most other counties in Scotland,
containing no great battlefields, and although prominent
in many important events, displaying to view few signal
crimes and no great national disasters. Ancient stone
circles, standing stones, and cairns or tumuli abounded,
but are not now to be found, though remains of hill forts
exist in several places. On Dunearn there are remains of
such a fort, and another strong one was on Carneil Hill,
near Carnock, and stood adjacent to some tumuli which
were found in 1774 to enshrine a number of urns contain-
ing Roman coins. Traces of two Koman military stations
are found near the same locality ; and a Roman camp for
Agricola's ninth legion was pitched in the vicinity of
Loch Orr, confronting Benarty Hill on the right and the
Cleish Hills on the left. Human skeletons, found at
various periods on the southern seaboard, are regarded
as relics of conflicts with invading Danes in the 9th
and following centuries. Great monastic establishments
were formed at St Andrews, Dunfermline, Balmerino,
Lindores, Inchcolm, and Pittenwcem, and have left
'.onsiderable remains. Medieval castles stood at St
Andrews, Falkland, Leuchars, Kellie, Dunfermline, Bam-
briech, Balcomie, Dairsie, Aberdour, Scafield, Loch Orr,
Tarbet, Rosyth, Inverkeithing, Ravenscraig, Wemyss,
Monimail, Bahvearie, etc., and have left a large aggregate
of interesting ruins. Old churches, with more or less of
interest, exist at Grail, St Monance, Leuchars, Dysart,
Kirkforthar, Dunfermline, Dairsie, and St Andrews.
Early in the summer of 83 A.I>. Agricola had his army
FIFE
conveyed across the Bodotria, or Firth of Forth, and
landing, as is said, at BUKNTISLAND, gradually but
thoroughly made himself master of Fife, whilst his fleet
crept round its shores, and penetrated into the Firth of
Tay. The eastern half of the peninsula was then pos-
sessed by the Vernicomes, and the western by the
Damnonii, one of whose three towns, the ' Victoria' of
Ptolemy, was situated at Loch Orr, a lake, now drained,
in Ballingry parish. The Damnonii, says Dr Skene,
' belonged to the Cornish variety of the British race, and
appear to have been incorporated with the southern
Picts, into whose language they introduced a British
element. The Frisian settlements, too, on the shores
of the Firth of Forth, prior to 441, may also have left
their stamp on this part of the nation ; and the name of
Fothrik, applied to a district now represented by Kiu-
ross-shire and the western part of Fife, may preserve a
recollection of their Rik or kingdom.' Fife itself is
probably the Frisian fbh, ' a forest ; ' the namo Frisian
Sea is applied by Nennius to the Firth of Forth ; and
part of its northern shore was known as the Frisian
Shore. By the establishment of the Scottish monarchy
in the person of Kenneth mac Alpin (844-60) Fib or Fife,
as part of southern Pictavia, became merged in the king-
dom of Alban, of which under Constantin III. (900-40)
it is described as forming the second of seven provinces,
a province comprising the entire peninsula, along with
the district of Gowrie. It thus included the ancient
Pictish capital, ABEUNETHY, whither in 865 the primacy
was transferred from Dunkeld, and whence in 908 it was
again removed to St Andrews. In 877 the Danes, ex-
pelled by the Norwegians from Ireland, sailed up the
Firth of Clyde, crossed the neck of the mainland, and
attacked the province of Fife. They routed the ' Scots '
at Dollar, and, chasing them north-eastward to Inver-
dovet in Forgan, there gained a second and more signal
victory, King Cniistanlin, son of Kenneth mac Alpiu,
being among the multitude of the slain. On two ac-
counts this battle is remarkable, first as the only great
conflict known for certain to have been fought on Fifu
soil ; and, secondly, as the earliest occasion when the
term ' Scotti ' or Scots is applied to any of the dwellers in
Pictavia. According to Hector Boece and his followers,
Kenneth mac Alpin appointed one Fifus Duffus thane or
governor of the province of Fife, but thanes of Fife there
never were at any time, and the first Macduff, Earl of
Fife, figures in three successive charters of David I.
(1124-53), first as simply 'Gillemichel Makduf,' next as
' Gillemiehel Comes,' and lastly as 'Gillemichel Comes
de Fif.' In earlier charters of the same reign we hear,
indeed, of other Earls of Fife Edelrad, son of Malcolm
Ceannmor, and Constantin, but between these and the
Macdulfs there seems to have been no connection. 'The
demesne of the Maeduff Earls of Fife appears to have
consisted of the parishes of Cupar, Kilmany, Ceres, and
Cameron in Fife, and those of Strathmiglo and Auchter-
muchty in Fothriff, near which Macduff's Cross was
situated. Whether this sept were the remains of the
old Celtic inhabitants of the province, or a Gaelic clan
introduced into it when its chief was made Earl, it is
dillieult to say; but it is not impossible that it may have
been a northern clan who followed Macbeth (1040-57)
when the southern districts were subjected to his rule,
and that there may be some foundation for the legend
that the founder of the clan had rebelled against him,
and adopted the cause of Malcolm Ceannmor, and so
maintained his position. Some probability is lent to
this supposition by the fact that the race from whom
the Mormaers of Moray derived their origin is termed
in one of the Irish genealogical MSS. Clan Duff, and
that the Earls of Fife undoubtedly possessed from an
early period large possessions in the North, including the
district of Strathearn. The privileges of the clan, how-
ever, stand on a different footing. From the earliest
period the territory of Fife comes prominently forward
as the leading province of Scotland, and its earls occupied
the first place among the seven earls of Scotland. The
first two privileges, of placing the king on the Coronation
Stone, and of heading the van in the army, were probably
attached to the province of Fife, and not to any par-
ticular tribe from which its earls might have issued ; on
the other hand, the third seems derived from the insti-
tution connected with the ancient Fine.,' etc. (Skene's
Celtic Scotland, iii. 61-63, 305, 306, 1880).
The history of Fife centres round no one town, as that
of Dumfriesshire round Dumfries, but is divided among
three at least ST ANDREWS for matters ecclesiastical ;
for temporal, DUNFERMLINE and FALKLAND. Each of
the latter has its royal palace ; and Dunfermline was the
burial-place of eight of Scotland's kings, from Malcolm
Ceannmor (1093) to the great Robert Bruce (1329), thus
including Alexander III., who met with his death in Fife,
being dashed from his horse over the headland of KING-
HOKN (1286). Duncan, Earl of Fife, was one of the three
guardians appointed to rule the southern district of the
kingdom in the absence of Alexander's infant daughter,
the Maid of Norway ; hut he was murdered in 1288 ;
and his sou, the next earl, was too young to seat John
Baliol on the Coronation Stone (1292) or to take any part
in the earlier scenes of the War of Independence. During
that war, in 1298, the Scottish victory of 'Black Irn-
syde ' is said to have been won by Wallace over Aymer
de Valence in Abdie parish, near Newburgh. The young
Earl was absent at the English court in 1306, but his
sister, the Countess of Buchan, discharged his functions
at Bruce's coronation, for which, being captured by
Edward, she was hung in a cage from one of the towers
of Berwick. Presently, however, we find him on Bruce's
side ; and, according to Barbour, it was he and the
.sheriff of Fife who, with 500 mounted men-at-arms, were
ilying before an English force that had landed at Doni-
bristle, when they were rallied by William Sinclair,
Bishop of Dunkeld. Another English force under the
Earl of Pembroke, in 1327, landed in Fife, and stormed
the Castle of Leuchars ; and in 1332 Edward Baliol and
the 'disinherited baroiis'landedatlunghoni, and marched
north-westward to Dui'i'LiN, in Strathearn. A parlia-
ment was held at Dairsie Castle in 1335, but failed to
accomplish its purposes ; and another was then held at
Dunfermline, and appointed Sir Andrew Moray to the
regency. The English immediately afterwards invaded
Scotland, sent a powerful fleet into the Firtli of Forth,
and temporarily overmastered Fife. A Scottish army,
soon collected by Sir Andrew Moray to confront them,
besieged and captured the town and castle of St Andrews,
and, save in some strongly garrisoned places, drove the
English entirely from tin: county. The Steward of Scot-
land (afterwards Robert II. ) succeeded Sir Andrew Moray
in the command and direction of that army ; and, in the
year of his accession to the throne (1371) the earldom of
Fife was resigned by the Countess Isabella, last of the
Macduff line, to his third son, Kobert, Earl of Mentcith,
whose brother Walter had been her second husband. The
new Earl of Fife was created Duke of Albany in 1398,
and it is as the Regent Albany that his name is best
known in history, whilst the deed whereby that name is
most familiar was the murder if murder it were of the
Duke of Rothesay at FALKLAND (1402), which figures in
Sir Walter Scott's Fair Maid of Perth.
Andrew Wood, in 14SO, attacked and repulsed a
hostile English squadron, which appeared in the Firtli
of Forth ; and he received, in guerdon of his services, a
royal grant of the village and lands of Largo. A body
of 13,000 infantry and' 1000 horse, suddenly levied in
Fife and Forfarshire, formed part of the Scottish army
which, in 1488, fought in the battle of Sauchieburn. The
Douglases, in 1526, after defeating their opponents at
Linhthgow, advanced into File, and pillaged Dunferm-
line Abbey and St Andrews Castle. File figures pro-
minently in Scottish Reformation history. At ST AX-
DREWS were burned the English Wiclifite, John Reseby
(1408), the German Hussite, Paul Crawar (1432), and
Scotland's own martyrs, Patrick Hamilton (1528), Henry
Forrest (1533), and George Wishart (1546). Barely two
months had elapsed ere the last was avenged by the
murder of Cardinal Beaton, and barely thirteen years
ere, in the summer of 1559, John Knox's 'idolatrous
sermon ' had roused, in Tennant's words
24
FIFE
d strife,
VYIIHII, uicK.-i-ii ni.' t,' towns o' Fife,
Great bangs o' bodies, thick and rife,
Gaed to Satict Androis town
And wi' John Calvin i' their heads,
And hammers i' their hands and spades,
Enraged at idols, mass, and beads,
Dang the Cathedral down.'
At CRAIL the crusade began, and from Crail the preacher
and his ' rascal multitude ' passed on to Anstruther, Pit-
tenweem, St Monance, St Andrews, the abbeys of Bal-
merino and Lindores, and almost every other edifice in
the county, large or small, that seemed a prop of the
Romish religion. Queen Mary, in 1563, spent nearly
four months in Fife, removing frequently from place to
place, but residing chiefly at Falkland and St Andrews,
where Chastelard was beheaded for having burst into her
chamber at Burntisland. Next year, she spent some
time at the same places; and at WEMYSS Castle in Feb.
1 565 she first met her cousin, Lord Darnley. Donibristle,
in 1592, was the scene of the murder commemorated in
the ballad of The Bonnie Earl o' Moray; and Falkland
Palace, in 1600, was the scene of the antecedent of the
mysterious affair known as the Cowrie Conspiracy. Fife
suffered more injury to trade than most other districts ot
Scotland from the removal of the court to London, at
the accession of James VI. to the crown of England (1603).
Its enthusiasm for the Covenant was great, and the sea-
ports put themselves in a state of defence when, on 1 May
1639, the Marquis of Hamilton arrived in the Firth of
Forthwith 19 Royalist vessels and 5000 well-armed men, ,
of whom, however, only 200 knew how to fire a musket.
This alarm passed off with the pacification of Berwick;
and the next marked episode is the battle of PITREAVIE,
fought near Inverkeithing on 20 July 1651, when 6000
of Cromwell's troopers defeated 4000 adherents of Charles
II., killing 1 600 and taking 1200 prisoners. Then comes
that darkest scene in all Fife's history, the murder by
men of Fife on MAGUS MUIR of Archbishop Sharp, 3 May
1679, so strongly illustrative of the fanaticism, the super-
stition, and the un warlike spirit of its perpetrators. The
Revolution (1688) was followed by a long and severe
famine, a great depression of commerce, and an exhaus-
tion of almost every resource; the Darien scheme (1695-
99) proved more disastrous to Fife than to most other
parts of Scotland; at the Union (1707) legitimate com-
merce was all but annihilated, its place being taken by
Mini"^''iing. (See DYSAHT.) The Earl of Mar landed
from London at Elic in Aug. 1715, the month of tlio
famous gathering at Braemar; on 12 Oct. Brigadier Mac-
intosh of Borlum succeeded in conveying 1600 Jacobites
from Fife to East Lothian over the Firth of Forth; and
about the same time the Master of Sinclair, proceeding
from Perth through Fife with 400 horsemen, surprised two
Government vessels at Burntisland, which furnished the
rebels with 420 stands of arms. The plundering of the
custom-house at PITTENWEEM by Wilson, Robertson, and
nth. r smugglers, is memorable as leading to the Porteous
Riot at Edinburgh (1736). Among many illustrious
natives are Tennant and Dr Chalmers, born at Anstruther;
Lady Ann Barnard, at Balcarres ; Alexander Hamilton,
at Creich ; Sir David Wilkie, at Cults; Lord Chancellor
Campbell, at Cupar ; Charles I. and Sir Noel Paton, at
Dunfermline; Richard Cameron, at Falkland; Adam
Smith, at Kirkcaldy ; Alexander Selkirk, at Largo ; Sir
David Lindsay, at Monimail ; Major Whyte Melville, at
Mount Melville, near St Andrews : and Lady Elizabeth
Halket, at Pitreavie.
A characteristic feature of Fife is its large number of
small seaport towns, in many places so close as to be
practically a continuous town. Buchanan used the ex-
pression oppidulis praxingitur to describe it, and James
VI. called the county a grey cloth mantle with a golden
fringe. The modern demand for harbours capable of
'"S' -^ -^
admitting large vessels has tended to concentrate the
hipping of Fife at Burntisland, and the establishment
of large factories has in like manner concentrated popula-
tion in such places as Dunfermline and Kirkcaldy. Thus,
though Fife is rich and fruitful in its land, and has many
important industries, as well as large import and export
FIFE-KEITH
trades, most of the coast towns are so quiet and decayed
as to give the casual visitor a much less favourable im-
pression of the county than a complete examination
affords.
The county acquired its popular name of the ' Kingdom
of Fife,' partly from its great extent and value, and partly
from its forming an important portion of the Pietish
extensive than it now is, comprehending nearly all the
region between the Tay and the Forth, or the present
counties of Fife, Kinross, and Clackmannan, and the
districts of Strathearn and Monteith. Dismemberments
of it were made at various periods. In 1426 the county
of Kinross was formed; other changes were afterwards
made to form the stewurtries of Clackmannan and Cul-
ross the latter, however, restored to Fife in 1891; and
in the year 1685 three parishes were cut off to complete
the county of Kinross. Numerous ancient hereditary
jurisdictions existed in the county, and, in common
with similar jurisdictions in other parts of Scotland,
were abolished, under compensation, in 1747. The
chief of these were that of the steward of the stewartiy
of Fife, for which the Duke of Atholo received 1200;
that of the bailie of the regality of Dunfermline, for
which the Marquis of Twccddale received 2072, 7s. ;
that of the bailie of the regality of St Andrews, for
which the Earl of Crawford ivcrived 3000; that of the
regality of Aberdour, for which the Earl of Morton re-
ceived 93, 2s. ; that of the regality of Pittenweem, for
which Sir John Anstruther received 282, 15s. 3d. ; that
of the regality of Lindores, for which Antonia Barclay
of Collerny received 215; and that of the regality of
Balmerino, which had been forfeited to theCrown through
Lord Balmerino's participation in the rebellion of 1745,
and so was not valued.
See Sir Kobert Sibbald's History of Fife (1710; new
ed., Cupar, 1803); J. M. Leigh ton's History of Fife (3
vols., Glasgow, 1840); Thomas Rodger's Kingdom iil Fife.
(2 vols., Cupar, 1861); Walter Wood's East Ncuk of Fife
(1862); M. F. Conolly's Biographical Dictionary of Eml-
vcvt Men of Fife (Cupar, 1862); his Fifiana (Cupar,
1869); William Ballingall's Shores of Fife (1872); James
W. Taylor's Historical Antiquities of Fife (2 vols., 1875);
James Macdonald's 'Agriculture of Fife, 'in Trans. HigM.
and Ag. Soe. (1876) ; J. R. Walker's Pre-lleformation
Churches in Fifeshire (1888); Sheriff M. Mackay's His-
tory of Fife and Kinross (1890) ; Chapman's Handbook to
Elie and East of File (Elie, 1892); besides works cited
under BALMERINO, BURNTISLAND, CELLAUDYKE, CIIAIL,
DUNFERMLINE, DURA DEN, DYSAKT, FALKLAND, IKCH-
COLM, LIXIIURES, I.SI.K OF MAY, and ST AxuiiEws.
Fife-Keith. See KEITH.
Fife Ness, a low headland in Crail parish, Fife, 2 miles
NE of Crail town, 5 N by W of the Isle of May, and 16
NNE of North Berwick. It flanks the northern side of
the entrance of the Firth of Forth, is the most easterly
point in Fife, and terminates the tract popularly called
the East Neuk of Fife. It has traces of a defensive wall
running across it, and said to have been constructed by
the Danes in 874 to cover an invasive debarkation ; and
it is subtended for a considerable distance seaward by a
dangerous reef, noticed in our article on CAKR. Ord.
Stir., sh. 41, 1857.
Fife Railway, West of. SeeNoRTH BRITISH RAILWAY.
Figach. See FIAO.
Figgate Burn. See DUDDINGSTON.
Figgate Whins, a tract of land in Duddingston
parish, Edinburghshire, traversed and mainly drained
by Figgate Burn. It was anciently a forest, where Sir
William Wallace is said to have mustered his forces for
the siege of Berwick, and Gibson of DURIE to have been
pounced upon by Christy's Will this latter a false ver-
sion of the story. In 1762 it was sold for only 1500;
and it now is partly the site of the widespread watering-
place of Portobello, and partly the fertile tract extend-
ing south-westward thence to the eastern skirts of
Arthur's Seat.
File. See BENFILE.
Fillan, a stream of Killin parish, W Perthshire, rising,
FINCASTLE
at an altitude of 29SO feet, on the northern side of BEN-
LOY (3708 feet), close to the Argyllshire border. Thence
it winds 11J miles east-north-eastward and east-south-
eastward, past Dalree and Crianlarich, along a glen called
from it Strathfillan, till it falls into the lead of Loch
DOCHART, or rather expands into that loch, being thus
the remotest head-stream of the river Tay. It is followed
along all its lower course by the Callander and Oban
railway. Near Crianlarich the West Highland railway
crosses the Fillan by a viaduct having a stretch of over
300 feet in six spans, four of which are 45 feet and two
60 feet wide. This viaduct is built chiefly of Ben
Cruachan marble, and in order to protect it from ice-
iloes and heavy floods a very strong V-shaped cutwater
has been erected. Within i mile of its left bank, and
Si 1 miles SSE of Tyndrum, stand the ruins of an Austin
priory church, dedicated in 1314 to St Fillan by Robert
Bruce as a thank-offering for the victory of Bannock-
burn. The square-shaped 'Bell of St Fillan,' of cast
bronze, with double-headed dragonesque handle, lay on
a gravestone here till 1798, when it was stolen by an
English traveller. In 1869 it was restored to Scotland,
and now is deposited in the Edinburgh Antiquarian
Museum, where also now is the quigrich or silver head
of St Fillan's crozier, carried to Canada in 1818, and
returned by its hereditary keeper, Mr Alex. Dewar, to
Scotland in 1877. This bell used to be rung during that
curious superstitious rite according to which lunatics
were brought to the neighbouring ' Holy Pool of Fillan,'
and plunged in its waters just before sunset, then bound
hand and foot, and left all night in the ruins beside
what was known as ' St Fillan's Tomb. ' If in the morn-
ing they were found still bound, the case was abandoned
as hopeless; but if the knots were untied, it was deemed
the merciful work of the saint, and the sufferers were
quit for ever of their malady. Of St Fillan himself very
little is known, except that he belonged to the close of
the 5th century, is called an Mar ('the leper'), was a
disciple of Ailbe in Emly, and in the Irish calendar is
said to have been of Bath Erenn in Alban, or ' the fort
of the Earn in Scotland.' Some hagiologists, however,
maintain that this leprous saint of Strathearn was dis-
tinct from him of Strathfillan, whom they assign to a
century later. Ord. Sur., sh. 46, 1872.
Fillans, St, a village in Comrie parish, Perthshire, on
the N bank of the river Earn, just below its efflux from
Loch Earn, 13 miles W by N of Crieff, under which it
lias a post ofiice with money order, savings bank, and
triumph departments. Both as to situation and struc-
ture one of the pleasantest villages in Scotland, it com-
prises a range of slated one-story houses, mantled with
ivy and honeysuckle, an hotel, called the Drummond
Arms, an Established and a Free church, a public school,
and a curling club. St Fillans was erected into a quoad
sacra parish in 1895 under the name Dundurn. On a
green level plain here the St Fillans Highland Society,
instituted in 1819, for twelve years held a famous annual
meeting for athletic sports. Ord. Sur., sh. 47, 1868.
Finaglen or Finglen, a glen, traversed by a mountain
burn, in Comrie parish, Perthshire, descending from
Ben Bhan, 1| mile north-north-eastward to Loch Earn
at a point 2 miles W by S of St Fillans.
Finart, an estate, with a mansion, in Row parish,
Dumbartonshire. The mansion, standing on the E shore
of Loch Long, 3 miles N of Garelochhead, is the seat of
Edward Caird, Esq., a relative of John and Edward
Caird, the former principal of Glasgow University, the
latter Master of Balliol, Oxford. It has finely wooded
grounds, and is overhung by a hill and mountain that
command a superb view of Loch Long. Hill and moun-
tain are often called Finart, but really consist of, first,
Tom Buidhe (936 feet), 1 mile NE of the mansion, and,
next, Ben Mhanarch (2328), culminating 9 furlongs
ESE of that bi\l Ord. Sur., sh. 38, 1871.
Finart, Argyllshire. See GLENFINAKT.
Finavon. See FINHAVEN.
Fincastle, a south-eastern district of Blair-Athole
parish, Perthshire, extending 3J miles along the N bank
of the Tummel from the foot of Loch Tummel to Bon-
25
FINDHORN
skeid IIousc, and 1 \ mile along the S bank of the Garry
from Blair-Athole village to Auldclune. Fincastle Burn
flows through the midst to the Tummel, along a fertile
narrow strath, and near its left bank stands Fincastle
House, the seat and death-place of Sir Robert Gilmonr
Colquhoun, K.C.B. (1803-70), who for seven years served
as Consul-General in Egypt. The district takes its name
from having anciently contained no fewer than fifteen
castles, vestiges of a number of which may still be seen;
and it gives the title of Viscount to the Earl of DUN-
MORE. It has a post office under Pitlochry, 6 miles to
the S.E. Ord. Sur., sh. 55, 1869.
Findhorn, a seaport village in Kinloss parish, NW
Elginshire, at the right side of the mouth of Findhorn
river, and on the point of a peninsula between Find-
horn and Burghead Bays. By road it is 5 miles N
of Torres and 3i NE of Kinloss station on the lli:;lil HP!
railway, this station being 9J miles W by S of Elgin
and 27| ENE of Inverness. A branch line from Kin-
loss to Findhorn, opened in 1800, has now for some
years been discontinued. The original town, which
stood at least 2 miles westward of the present one, was
destroyed by the drifting of the CUI.BIN Sands; the
next one stood a mile NW, on ground now covered by
the sea, and was swallowed in a few hours by the
great inundation of 1701 ; and even the present town
is so beset with surge-lashed sand-banks, that it, too,
possibly may some day share their fate. A place of
worship in it, used first as a dissenting meetii)L''-h<itise,
and next as a chapel of ease, was built on the sand, and
fell in Jan. 1843. The town, from its situation at the
mouth of the Findhorn, known in Gaelic as the Erne,
is commonly called by the Highlanders Invererne. It
lishe^^stiict 'between Dickie 6 and Cromarty; and
and other goods, and in the import of coals, groceries,
and manufactured wares. It has a post oihce under
Forres, a good harbour, a Free church, a girls' public
school, and a public library. The harbour is partly
natural, partly artificial, with a stone pier, two quays
of hewn stone, and a breastwork connecting the pier
with one of the quays; and has, in the shallowest part
of the channel at its entrance, 10 feet of water in the
lowest neap tide, and from 13 to 17 feet in spring tides.
In 1894 the number of boats employed in the district
was 384, of fishermen and boys 2012, of fish-curers 22,
and of coopers 72; the value ol the boats being 50. 729,
of the nets 37,93.',, and of the lines 0467. The follow-
ing is the number of barrels of herrings salted or cured
in diirnvnl years:- riSIJ'i) 29,572, (1870) 16,311, (1880)
16,255, (1890) 22.885. (1894) 12,331; of cod, ling, or
hake taken (I860) 20,779, (l*7:i) 67.837, (1879) 56.191,
(1880) 34,265, (1881) 15,255, (1891) 19,192, (1894)
8128. Pop. (1841) 806. (1861) 891, (1871) 701, (1SS1)
605, (1891) uM.Ord. Su,:, sh. 94, 1878.
Findhorn, a river of Inverness, Nairn, and Elgin shires,
rising in the southern extremity of Moy and Dalarossie
parish, among the Monadhliath Mountains, 5J miles N
by W of Lag-in Kri.lge. and thence winding 2j- miles
north-eastward, till it falls into the Moray Firth at
Findhorn village. In the first 7J miles of its course it
bears the name of Abhainn Cro Chlach ('stream of the
stone fold'); and a 13th century charter alludes to it
as the Earn, so that Findhorn is possibly a corruption
of fionn-ear-an, ' wan east-flowing river, ' the greater part
of its basin being still known as Strathdearn. It is
joined by the Eskin, Moy Burn, the Divie, Muckle
Bum, and numerous mountain torrents ; it expands,
between Forres HIM! l''ind'iiuni village, into a triangular
tidal lagoon, 2 miles long and 2| wide, called Findhorn
Bay or Harbour, and again contracts to 2J furlongs at
its mouth. Its scenery, alpine at first, then moderately
mountainous, and finally lowland, exhibits almost every
variety of picturesqueness, from the wildly grand to
the softly beautiful, abounding in features of wood and
rock, gorge and cliff, fertile valley and finely-contoured
hill, and is not excelled, either in diversity of attraction
or in aggregate richness, by the scenery of any equal
FINDRASSIE
length of stream in Scotland. From 2800 feet above
sea-level at its mossy source, it descends to 1627 at the
Eskin's confluence, 950 at Findhorn Bridge, 580 at the
Bridge of Dulsie, and 280 near Relugas House; and
thus its current is impetuous in the upper, swift in the
middle, and broad ana placid in the lower reaches. Its
volume varies greatly in time of drought and in time of
heavy rain; and it is subject to such strong, sudden
freshets as sometimes to roll down a wall-like wave of
water with irresistible and destructive force along the
narrow or contracted parts of its bed, and to overflow
its banks and make a lake of all the lowland portions of
its valley. In the Plain of Forres, over 20 square miles
were so inundated by it in the memorable floods of
Aug. 1829, that a large boat, in full sail, swept along
its basin to within a few yards of the town. The Find-
horn is still a fine salmon and trout river, though not
what it was half a century since, when in a single day
300 salmon were token from one pool. The Aviemore
and Inverness section of the Highland railway crosses
the Findhorn about 5 miles NW of Can-bridge station.
The Findhorn traverses or bounds the parishes of Moy
and Dalarossie, Cawdor, Ardclach, Edinkillie, Forres,
Dyke and Moy, and Kinloss; and in our articles on these,
its various features of bridge, mansion, village, and town
are noticed. Ord. Sur., shs. 73, 74, 84, 94, 1876-78.
See chaps, ii.-x. of Sir Thomas Dick Lander's Moray
Floods (Elgin, 1830; 3d ed. 1873).
Findlater, an estate on the coast of Fordyce parish,
B-inir--liire. It formerly belonged to the Ogilvies of
Deskford, and gave them the title of earl from 1638 till
1811. That title expired at the death of the seventh
Earl of Findlater and fourth of Sealield, who was sue-
ceeded in his estates and in the earldom of Seafield by
his cousin. Findlater Castle stood on a peninsulated
rock overhanging the sea, 2 miles E of Cullen, and 4
W by N of Portsoy, and, with permission of the Crown,
was fortified in 1445 by Sir Walter Ogilvie, knight, of
Auchleven. It was one of the places which refused to
receive Queen Mary on her visit to the North (1562), and
is now a curious picturesque ruin. See CULLEN. Ord.
Sur., sh. 96, 1876.
Findochty, a fishing village in Rathven parish, Banff-
shire, 3 miles W by N of Cullen, under which it has a
post office, with money order, savings bank, and tele-
graph departments. Founded in 1716 by a colony of
fishermen from Fraserburgh, it has a public school and
132 boats engaged in fishing. Its sheltered harbour
with 24 feet depth of water, and 270 feet of width at
the entrance, was greatly improved by the Fishery Com-
missioners in 1882-83. Near it is a medicinal spring
situated within high water mark. Findochty was formed
into a special water-supply district in 1879. Pop. (1881)
936, (1891) 1148. Ord. Sur., sh. 96, 1876
Findogask. See CASK.
Findon, an estate in Urquhart and Logie-Wester parish,
Ross-shire, on the SE shore of Cromarty Firth, 5 miles
NE of Conan Bridge. It is traversed by a burn of its
own name, which makes a fine cascade of 20 feet in a.
yawning bosky gorge.
Findon, a farm in Gamrie parish, NE Banffshire, 5 fur-
longs S by W of Gardenstown. Its rocks are famous for
great abundance and variety of fossil fish, ganoids chiefly,
many of which were figured and described by Agassiz.
Findon or Finnan, a fishing village in Banchory-
Deveuick parish, Kincardineshire, 1| mile NE of Port-
lethen station, this being 8 miles S by W of Aberdeen.
It is a little place, of no more consequence than other
fishing villages on the E coast; but it has gained
celebrity for having been the first place to prepare thu
dried fish called from it Findon or Finnan haddocks.
It has a public school. Ord. S^lr., sh. 67, 1871.
Findrack, an estate, with an old mansion, in Lum-
phanan parish, Aberdeenshire, 2J miles ENE of Lum-
phanan station. It was sold in 1670 by Sir Robert
Forbes of Learney to the Erasers; and its present owner
is William N. Eraser, Esq.
Findrassie, an estate, with a mansion, in Spynie
parish, Elginshire, 2i miles N W of Elgin. It belonged,
TINE
from the first half of the 16th century, to a branch of
the Leslies, descended from Robert, youngest son of the
third Earl of Rothes; but was sold in 18525 by Sir Charles
Leslie, fifth Bart, since 1625.
Fine. See FYKE.
Finella, See FENELLA.
Fmfan, a farm in Urquhart parish, NE Elginshire,
1 i mile WSW of Garmouth. It has a mineral well, of
similar quality to Strathpeifer spa, and a neat cottage
was built at it by General Sir James Dull' for supplying
the water to occasional visitors.
Fingal'a Cave. See STAFF A.
Fingal's Fort. See DUN FIONN.
Fingal's Griddle, an ancient Caledonian monument
in Ardnamurchan parish, Argyllshire. It is situated
on Ormsaigmore, and consists of large stones in the
form of a rude altar, surrounded by remains of a circle
of smaller stones.
Fingal's Oak, a famous old tree in Ardchattan parish,
AlKylteoire, near Uan-aMiim. House. It girthed 29 feet
(only half its original si/.e) in 1835, and continued so to
decay and crumble, that in 1844 it measured but 23 feet
in girth.
Fingal's Seat. See AIT-SUIDBE-THUIX.
Fingal's Stair. See BEXEADDAN.
Fingask, an estate, with a mansion of 1834, in Daviot
parish, Aberdeenshire, 2 miles W of Old Meldrnm. A
small enclosure on the estate is thought to have com-
prised a pro-Reformation chapel.
Fingask or Marlee, a loch in the SE of Kinloch
parish, NE Perthshire. Lying 139 feet above sea-level,
it has an utmost length and breadth of 3 and 2 furlongs,
is connected by rivulets with Black and White Lochs of
similar extent in Blairgowrie parish, and sends oil' a
stream J mile south-south-westward to Lunan Burn. It
is notable for having furnished from its bed great quan-
tities of manurial clay or ma.rl.-0rd. Sur., sh. 48, 1868.
Fingask Castle, a fine old mansion in Kils|iimii.>
parish, Perthshire, 3A miles NNW of Errol station. It
stands on the W side of a wooded glen, 200 feet above
the Carse of Gowrie, and by Dr Chambers is described as
an irregular but picturesque structure, comprising a tall
front tower of 1594; a still older central portion; an
addition of about 1675, with pepper-box turrets at the
angles; and a modern dining-room, conservatory, etc.
On one side is a winding avenue of pines and sycamores;
cm the other a beautiful garden, with a terrace beyond,
that commands a magnificent view of the Firth of Tay,
the Sidlaws, and the Grampians. Within are portraits
of the Old Chevalier, Clementina his wife, Prince Charles
Edward, his brother Henry, Cardinal of York, the poet
William Hamilton of Bangour, and many members of the
Threipland family, which seems to have migrated from
Threipland in Kilbucho parish, IVeblcsshire, about the
beginning of the 17th century, and which in 1672
bought Fingask from a cadet of the Bruces of Clack-
mannan, two years later adding thereto the adjacent
estate of KINNAIRD. Patrick Threipland, becoming
provost of Perth in 1665, was knighted in 1674 for
diligence in suppression of conventicles, was made a
baronet of Nova Scotia iu 16S7, and in 1689 died a
prisoner in Stirling Castle. His son, Sir David (1666-
1746), in 1715 was one of the first to join the standard
of the Earl of Mar, with his eldest son and namesake.
The latter was captured whilst crossing the Firth of
Forth under Macintosh of Borlum, but effected a daring
escape from Edinburgh Castle. The Old Chevalier
passed the night of 7 Jan. 1716 in the ' state-room ' of
Fingask, and was again there in the following month ;
in March Sir David was a fugitive, and his castle was
occupied by a party of Government dragoons. The
forfeited estate, however, was leased by Lady Threipland
from the York Building Company, who had bouht it
for 9606. In the '45 the eldest son, David, fell at
Prestonpans; but the youngest, Stuart (1716-1805),
went through the entire campaign, for some time shared
in the Prince's wanderings, and at length escaped to
France, disguised as a bookseller's assistant, Fingask
meantime having been plundered by dragoons. Return-
ing in 1747, he set up as a physician in Edinburgh, and
in 1783 bought back the estate for 12,207, whilst to
his son, Patrick (1762-1837), the baronetcy was restored
in 1826. His son, the fifth baronet, Sir Patrick-Murray
Threipland (1800-82), dying without issue, was succeeded
by his cousin, William Scott Kerr, Esq., who holds also
the estate of Toftingall in Caithness, and who has assumed
the name of Murray Threipland in accordance with the
last baronet's will. Ord. Sur., sh. 48, 1868. See
Robert Chambers, LL.D., The Threiplands of Fingask
(Edinb. 1880).
Fingland, a burn in Traquair parish, Peeblesshire,
sing just within Yarrow parish, Selkirkshire, at an
altitude of 1300 feet, and flowing 4J miles north-by-
westward till it falls into Quair Water a little above
of water and two i
like Kirkton Glen, it presents features of gorge, crag, and
wood somewhat similar to those of the Trossachs. Ord.
Traquair village.
Fingland, a burn in Eskdalemuir parish, NE Dumfries-
shire, running to the White Esk at a point J mile NNE
of Davington Free church. A cascade on it, called
Wellburnspout, makes a leap of 56 feet.
Fin Glen, a glen in the W of Campsie parish, Stirling-
shire, traversed by a burn which, rising in the S of
Killearn parish, on the NE shoulder of Earl's Seat (1894
feet), runs 4J miles south-south-eastward, till, near
Campsie Glen station, it unites with the Pow and Kirk-
ton Burns to form the GLAZERT. Though somewhat less
picturesque than Kirkton Glen, Fin Glen has a larger
y beautiful waterfalls; whilst,
fgorg
Trossi
Sur., sh. 81, 1866.
Finglen, Perthshire. See FINAGLEN.
Finhaven or Finavon (anc. l t 'othnevyn=Ga.e\. fodha-
fainn, ' place under a hill '), a ruined castle in Oathlaw
parish, Forfarshire, on a rising ground at the influx of
Lemno Burn to the South Esk, 5i miles NNE of Forfar
and 8 WSW of Brechin. A stately five-storied tower,
86 feet high, larger but plainer than Edzell, it dates in
its present condition from the latter half of the 16th
century. ' The N wall is yet entire, but the S one is
rent through two-thirds of the length of the building,
and on some frosty morning at no distant date will in-
evitably crumble to pieces.' According to Thomas the
Rhymer's prediction :
The ruin is a very storehouse of strange memories.
Hither David, third Karl of Crawford, and his foeman
but brother-in-law, Ogilvy of Inverquharity, were
brought, sore wounded, from the battle of ARBROATII
(1446). The Earl died after a week of lingering torture;
and scarce was he dead, when the Countess hurried to
Inverquharity 's chamber, and smothered him with a
pillow, thus avenging her husband by murdering her
own brother. 'Earl Beardie' or 'the Tiger' Earl of
Crawford fled to Finhaven from the rout of BUF.CHIN
(1452), and, on alighting from his horse, exclaimed that
gladly would he pass seven years in hell to gain the
honour of Huntly's victory. Eleven months later he
was pardoned by James II., who here received a sump-
tuous entertainment; but the King, having sworn in
" ' wrath ' to make the highest stone of Fiuh;
'
Finhaven, grown from a chestnut dropped by a Roman
soldier, Earl Beardie hanged Jock Barefoot, the Careston
gillie who had dared to cut a walking-stick therefrom,
and whose ghost oft scares the belated wayfarer. The
Covin Tree was levelled to the ground in 1760; but, in
the secret chamber of Glamis, Earl Beardie still drec.s
his weird, to play at cards until the clap of doom. In
1530 David, eighth Earl, was for thirteen weeks im-
prisoned in the dungeons of Finhaven by his son, the
Wicked Master, who eleven years after was stabbed by a
Dundee cobbler for taking from him a stoup of drink.
David, tenth Earl, in 1546 married Margaret, daughter
of Cardinal Beaton. The nuptials were solemnised at
FINK, ST
Finhaven with great magnificence, in presence of the
Cardinal, who that same month was murdered at St
Andrews. Held by the Lindsays since 1375, the estate
was sold in 1629 by the fourteenth Earl of Crawford to
his cousin, Lord Spynie. Later it was owned by the
Carnegies, till in 1775 it was sold for 19,500 to the
Earl of Aboyne. It was sold again in 1805 for 45,000
to a Mr Ford, and was re-sold in 1815 for 65,000 to a
.subsequent Karl of Aboyne, and belongs now to Col.
Charles Grecnlnll Cindy,,,.. \V.,,,ded ' Finhaven Hill
extends along all the south-eastern border of Oathlaw
parish, and some way into Aberlemno. Culminating
at a height of 751 feet above sea-level, it commands
a beautiful view of Strathmore, and is crowned, on
its north-eastern shoulder, with a vitrified fort, in the
form nearly of a parallelogram 380 feet long and 112 at
the broadest. Anciently there was a parish of Finhaven,
divided now between Oathlaw and Aberlemno; and well
on into the 19th century the former parish was oftener
called Finhaven than Oathlaw. The church, standing
1 mile E of the castle, was built in 1380, and fell into
disuse about the beginning of the 17th century. In its
side aisle, however, the thirteenth Earl of Crawford was
buried as late as 1622, and this aisle was left standing till
1815. In 1849 the ancient encaustic pavement of the
church was laid bare, and two monuments were found at a
considerable depth, one being of a robed ecclesiastic.
Ord. Sur., sh. 57, 1868. See Chap. iv. of Andrew
Jervise's Land of the Lindsays (Edinb. 1853).
Fink, St, an ancient chapelry and an extinct hamlet
in Bendochy parish, Perthshire, 2J miles NE of Blair-
gowrie. The chapelry included the tract above the con-
fluence of the Ericht and the Isla.
Finlagan, a hill-girt loch in Killarrow and Kilmeny
parish, Isle of Islay, Argyllshire, 4J miles W by N of
Port Askaig. Measuring 1 by J mile, it sends off a
rivulet of its own name to salt-water Loch Gruinard,
and abounds with trout and salmon, the former averaging
4 Ib. each. An islet in it is crowned by the ruins of the
castle and chapel of the Macdonalds, Lords of the Isles;
and on its shore are traces of a pier for communicating
with the castle.
Finlarig, a picturesque ruined castle in Killin parish,
IVrlhshire, at the head of Loch Tay, 1J mile N by E of
Killin village. An ancient seat of the Earl of Breadal-
bane's ancestors, it figures in Sir Walter Scott's Fair
Maid of Perth as the death-place of the chief of the clan
Quhele, and is a narrow three-story ivy-clad pile, with a
square tower at one corner. Adjoining it is the burying-
vaultof the Breadalbane family; and around is aii un-
dulating park with grand old trees. The scene of a
sanguinary fight between the Campbells and the Mac-
donalds is in its neighbourhood. Ord. Sur.,sh. 46, 1872.
Finlas, a lake in Straiten parish, Ayrshire, 5 miles S
by W of Dalmellinaton. Lying 840 feet above sea-level,
it extends H mile from NW to SE, has a varying width
of 4 furlong and 2J furlongs, is fed from Loch DF.KCLACU
at its head, and from its foot sends oil' Carpel Burn 1J
mile north-eastward to Loch Doon. Boats are kept on
it, and the trout fishing is good. Ord. Sur., sh. 8, 1863.
Finlas, a streamlet in Luss parish, Dumbartonshire,
rising at an altitude of 1800 feet, and running 4j miles
south-eastward along an alpine glen, called from it
Glenfinlas, and eastward and north-by-eastward through
low, rich, wooded grounds, till it falls into a baylet of
Loch Lomond 3 furlongs S\V of Rossdhu House. Ord.
Xur.,sh. 38, 1871.
Finlay's Castle, a remnant of an old castle in Nairn
parish, Nairnshire. See NAIRN.
Finlay's Mire. See MOKQUHITTER.
Finlayston House, a mansion in the NW corner of
Kilmalcolm parish, Renfrewshire, near the S shore of
the Clyde, 14 mile W by N of Langbank' station, and
3 miles E by S of Port Glasgow. Partly an edifice of
the latter half of the 15th century, it was long a resi-
dence of the Earls of Gleneaim; and, under the fifth or
' Good ' Earl, was the scene of a notable celebration of
the Lord's Supper by John Knox (1556). It is also
associated with the name of Alexander Montgomery, a
FINSTOWW
poet who flourished in the time of James VI., and wrote-
The Cherrie and the Sloe; and it commands a brilliant
view along the Clyde. Ord. Sur., sh. 30, 1866.
Finnan, a stream in the Inverness-shire section of
Ardnamurchan parish, rising at an altitude of 1586 feet
above sea-level, close to the Kilmallie border, and thence
running 5J miles south-south-westward to the head of
Loch Shiel, along a narrow rocky mountain glen, called
from it Glenfinnan. The glen, toward tho mouth of
the stream, opens in four directions, somewhat in the
manner of four divergent streets; and, terminating at
the head of the loch in a small plain, is crossed there by
a road leading 35 miles westward from Banavie, up Loch
Eil, to Arasaig. This was the scene of the unfurling of
Prince Charles Edward's banner at the commencement
of the Rebellion of 1745, an event sung finely by Pro-
fessor Ay toun in his Lays of the Cavaliers. ' The spot, '
says Hill Burton, ' adopted for the gathering was easily
accessible to all the garrisons of the Highland forts. It
was only 18 miles distant from Fort William, and almost
visible from the ramparts; but when a general gathering
in force was intended, the presence of tho forts well
adapted as they were to keep down petty attempts was
no impediment to it. The 19th of August was the day
fixed for the momentous ceremony ; but the Prince's
faith in his destiny was again tried, for, when he arrived,
the glen was silent and deserted, save by the ragged
children of the hamlet, who glared with wondering eyes
on the mysterious strangers. After two hours thus
spent, the welcome sound of a distant bagpipe was
heard, and the Camerons, between seven and eight hun-
dred strong, appeared on the sky-line of the hill. Before
the group dispersed in the evening, the number assembled
amounted to 1500 men. The post of honour on the
occasion was given to the old Marquis of Tullibardine,
heir to the dukedom of Athole, who, like his young
master, had come to "regain his own."' Prince Charles's
Monument here, a tower with a Gaelic, Latin, and
English inscription, was founded in 1815 by Alex. Mac-
donald of Glenaladalc, whose namesake lodged the Prince
on the night preceding the gathering, and whose de-
scendant, John Andrew Macdonald, Esq. of Glenaladalo
(b. 1837; sue. 1870), has his seat at Glenfinnan. Glen-
finnan has also a post office under Fort William, an inn,
a public school, with accommodation for 30 children,
and the Roman Catholic church of SS. Mary and Finnan,
an Early English edifice of 1873. St Finnan's green
islet, at the head of Loch Shiel, has been the burial-place
of the Macdonalds since their first settlement in these
lonely glens; and a square bronze bell one of three to
be found in Scotland, and as old, it may be, as Columba's
day still rests on the altar slab of its ruined chapel.
See SHIEL, LOCH. Ord. Sur.,sh. 62, 1875.
Finnan, Kincardineshire. See FINDON.
Finnart, a shooting-lodge in Fortingal parish, NW
Perthshire, on the S shore of Loch Rannoch, just below
its head, 10 miles W by S of Kinloch Rannoch. Tho
house is beautifully situated on a promontory jutting
out into Loch Rannoch and commanding beautiful views.
The shootings form part of the Robertbon-Luxibrd pro-
perty and extend to about 18,000 acres, capable of yield-
ing in a good season about 900 brace of grouse, besides
a heavy bag of blackgame, hares, rabbits, roe-deer, etc.
Red-deer are also sometimes met with. A little SW of
the lodge is an Established mission chapel. Ord. Sur.,
sh. 54, 1873.
Finnart, Dumbartonshire. See KINART.
Finnich or Carnock Burn. See CAKNOCK.
Finuieston. See GLASGOW.
Finnyfold or Whinnyfold, a fishing hamlet in the S
of Cruden parish, Aberdeenshire, 2J miles SSE of the
church.
Finstown, a village in Firth and Stenness parish, Ork-
ney, at the head of Firth Bay, 6 miles AVNW of Kirkwall.
It has a post office, with money order, savings bank,
and telegraph departments; horse and cattle fairs on the
third Monday of every month; and a pier, 500 feet long,
where an extensive trade is carried on in coal, lime,
manures, grain, etc.
FINTRAY
Fintray, a village and a parish of SE Aberdcenshirc.
The village, Hatton of Fintray, stands within 3 furlongs
of the Don's left bank, 3J miles E by N of Kintore, and
1 J mile NNE of Kinaldie station on the Great North of
Scotland, under which Fintray has a post office.
The parish is bounded NE and E by New Machar, S
by Dyce, Kinnellar, and Kintore, and W and NW by
Kintore and Keithhall. Rudely resembling a triangle
'in outline with northward apex, it has an utmost length
from N by W to S by E of 4 miles, an utmost width
from E to W of 5J miles, and an area of 7389 acres, of
which 69J arc water. The DON, winding 7J miles east-
by-southward, from just below Kintore to opposite the
raanse of Dyce, roughly traces all the south-western and
southern boundary; and, where it quits the parish, the
surface sinks to 116 feet above sea-level, thence rising,
in gentle knolls and rounded eminences, to 300 feet at
Woodhill, 245 at the parish church, 325 near Cairnie,
and 415 at the Hill of Tillykerrie in the farthest N.
Granite and gneiss are the prevailing rocks, traversed by
veins of coarsish limestone; and the soil of the haughs
along the Don is a rich alluvium, of the grounds above
them is dry and early on a gravelly subsoil, and elsewhere
ranges from peat earth and blue gravelly clay to yellow
loam of a more productive nature. Eleven-fourteenths of
the entire area are regularly or occasionally in tillage,
about 660 acres are under wood, and the rest is either
pastoral or waste. Cothal Mill here is a woollen factory
with steam and water power, and employing a large
number of hands. Patrick Copland, LL.D. (1749-1822),
prolessor of natural philosophy at Aberdeen, was a
native, his father being parish minister. Fintray House,
near the bank of the Don, 7 furlongs E of the village, is
a large modern mansion in the Tudor style; the estate
was acquired in 1610 by the first of the Forbeses of
CRAIGIEVAK, having belonged to the Abbey of Lindores
in Fife from 1224 down to the Reformation. Another
residence is DISISLAIR Cottage. Fintray is in the pres-
bytery and synod of Aberdeen ; the living is worth 254.
The church, at the village, is a neat and substantial
structure of 1821, containing 800 sittings; and 2 public
schools, Dis!>!nii','.n-l H-itt-.n. with respective accommo-
dation for 86 and 140 children, have an average attend-
ance of 42 and 92, and grants amounting to 39. 9s.
and 88. Pop. (1801) 886, (1831) 1046, (1861) 1003,
(1871) 1108, (1881) 1032, (1891) 999. Orel. Sar., sh.
Fintry, a hamlet and a parish of central Stirlingshire.
The hamlet stands, 400 feet above sea-level, on the left
bank of Endrick Water. Smiles ESE of Balfron, 16 WSW
of Stirling, and 17 N by E of Glasgow, under which it
has a post office. Gonachan hamlet lies 5 furlongs E by
S of it, and New-town hamlet f mile WNW.
The parish is bounded NW by Hal Iron, NE by Gar-
gunnock, E by St Ninians, SE by Kilsyth, S by Campsie,
SW by Strathblane, and W by Killearn. Its utmost
length, from E to W, is 6| miles; its breadth, from N
to S, varies between 2g and 5 miles; and its area is
13,881 acres, of which 109 are water. From its source
(1600 feet) upon Campsie Muir, in the S of the parish,
the river CARRON flows 6 miles east-north-eastward, at
first along the boundary with Campsie, but chiefly
through the south-eastern interior, till it passes off east-
ward into Kilsyth. EXDRIOK Water, gathering its head-
streams from the N of Fintry and the S W of Gargunnock,
winds 3J miles south-eastward and southward along the
Gargunnock and St Ninians border, then, bendin :
sharply, continues 5| miles west-by-northward,
passes off into Balfron. About a mile below its westerly
bend, it hurls itself over a precipice 94 feet high, and
makes a superb cascade the 'Loup of Fintry.' Dun-
goil (1396 feet) and Gartcarron Hill (1006) form the
'divide' between these streams, which at one point
approach within 7 furlongs of each other the Carron
running eastward to the Firth of Forth, and the Endrick
westward to Loch Lomond, and so to the Firth of Clyde.
The surface mainly consists of soft green hills, part of
the range that stretches from Stirling to Dumbarton
the Fintry Hills in the N, in the S the Campsie Fells.
ing
and
FINTBY
It declines along the Carron to 750 feet above sea-level,
along the Endrick to 270; and the highest points in the
parish are Stronend (1676 feet) near the north-western,
Meikle Bin (1870) near the south-eastern, and Holehead
(1801) exactly on the southern, border. The only in-
habited parts are the two intersecting valleys, watered
by respectively the Carron and the Endrick. The Car-
ron's valley, so far as within the parish, is mostly
meadow, and has few inhabitants. The Endrick's
valley, narrow at its eastern extremity, opens gradually
width of about a mile, and partly exhibits, partly
mands, a series of richly picturesque scenes. Culti-
vated fields, interrupted by fine groves, along
banks, hedgerows and plantations around Cul
the river's
lcreuch on
the N side, and some well-arranged clumps of trees
on the skirts and shoulders of the hills to the S, com-
bine to form an exquisite picture. The flanking hill-
ranges, occasionally broken and precipitous, wreathed
sometimes in clouds, and always wearing an aspect of
loveliness and dignity, produce an imposing effect along
the entire reach of the valley; and the summits of Ben
Lomond and other mountains of the frontier Grampians,
seen in vista away to the W, present a noble perspective.
In a hill called the Dun, near the hamlet, is a range of
basaltic pillars. Seventy pillars are in front, some of
them separable into loose blocks, others apparently
unjointed from top to bottom. Some are square, others
pentagonal or hexagonal; and they rise perpendicularly
to a height of 50 feet. At the E end of the range they
are divided by interstices of 3 or 4 inches; but as the
range advances they stand closer and closer, till at last
they are blended in one solid mass of honeycombed rock.
Trap also constitutes most of the other hills, which often
have such forms or projections as add no little to the
beauty of the scenery. Granite occurs in detached frag-
ments, and coal in several small seams; in Dun Hill are
extensive beds of red ochre; and fire stone, jasper, and
fine specimens of zeolite are found among the rocks.
The soil, in most parts of the valleys, is light and fer-
tile; but of the entire area only 1020 acres are in tillage
and 100 under wood, the rest of the land being either
pastoral or waste. Fintry or Graham's Castle, the
ancient stronghold of the Grahams of Fintry, stood near
the left bank of Endrick Water, on the St Ninians side,
34 miles E of Fintry hamlet, and now is represented by
mere vestiges. Sir Daniel Macnee (1806-82), portrait
painter, and president of the Royal Scottish Academy,
was a native. Culcreuch, which has been noticed separ-
ately, is the only mansion; and its owner (Mr J. C. Dun
Waters) and the Duke of Alontrose divide between them
nearly all the property in the parish. Fintry is in the
presbytery of Dumbarton and synod of Glasgow and
Ayr; the living is worth 165. The church, situated
at the hamlet, was built in 1823. and is a neat edifice,
with a W tower, and contains 500 sittings. A public
school, with accommodation for 90 children, has an
average attendance of 54, and a grant amounting to
60, 4s. Valuation (1860) 4532, (1882) 5329,
14s. 6d., (1892) 4602, 11s. 7d. Pop. (1801) 958,
(1831) 1051, (1851) 823, (1861) 685, (1871) 499,
(1881) 414, (1891) 357. Ord. Sur., shs. 31, 30, 39,
38, 1866-71.
Fintry, an estate in Mains and Strathmartine parish,
Forfarshire, 3 miles NNE of Dundee. From the Earls
of Angus it passed by marriage to the Grahams of Fintry;
was held by them lor several centuries; contained CLA-
VKRHOUSE, the family seat of the notorious Viscount
Dundee; and went eventually to Erskine of Linlathen.
Fiutry Castle, built in 1311 on the steep bank of a
rivulet amidst a dense mass of lofty trees, comprised u.
quadrangle, with a strong tower pierced by a principal
gateway facing W; had a passage over that gate, whence
missiles could be showered upon assailants; was de-
fended by several outworks; and is now extinct. The
mausoleum of the Grahams is still in the parish church-
yard.
Fintry, a small bay on the W side of Big Cumbrae
island, Buteshire. It is a mere incurvature 5 furlongs
long; but it has a fine beach of yellow sand nearly 300
29
yards broad, overlooked by a succession of pleasant
natural terraces ; and so it is well situated to become
some day the site of a watering-place.
Finzean House, a mansion in Birse parish, S Aber-
deenshire, 7 miles SE by E of Aboyne station, this being
32i miles W by S of Aberdeen. A fine old building,
forming three sides of a quadrangle, it stands amid
large and richly wooded grounds. Its owner is Robert
Karquharson, Esq., M.D., F.R.C.P. (b. 1837; sue.
1876), M.P. for West Aberdeenshire since 1880. Ord.
Sur., sh. 66, 1871.
Fiodhaig. See FIAO.
Fionaven. See FOINAVEN.
Fionnchairn or Fineharn, a ruined fortalice in Kil-
michael-Glassary parish, Argyllshire, on the steep SE
margin of Loch Awe, 2J miles ENE of Ford, near the
loch's head. A small but strong keep, it is said by
tradition to have belonged to a chieftain called Mac Mhic
Jain, and to have been burned by a vassal whose wife he
had wronged, and by whom he himself was slain.
Fionn Loch, a lake on the mutual border of Gairloch
and Lochbroom parishes, NW Ross-shire, 3J miles N
of Letterewe on Loch Maree, and 6 E of Poolewe.
Lying 559 feet above sea-level, and 2238J acres in area,
it extends 5| miles north-north-westward, has a vary-
ing width of 4 furlong and 1J mile, teems with trout,
and sends off the Littl
tle Greinord
iles north-by-
castward to the head of GKKINOKD Bay. Ord. Sur., sh.
U2, 1881.
Firdon, a rivulet running to the sea in Applecross
parish, Ross-shire.
Firhall, an estate, with a mansion, in Nairn parish,
Nairnshire, on the left bank of the river Nairn, J mile S
of the station of that name.
Firkin Point, a small headland in Arrocbar parish,
Dumbartonshire, on the W side of Loch Lomond, 2^
miles SSE of Tarbet.
Firmouth, a lofty mountain in Clentamier, on the S
border of Aberdeenshire.
Firth, a bay in the Mainland of Orkney. Opening on
a line westward from the String, or the sound between
the mainland and Shapinshay, it measures 2i miles
from N to S across the entrance, penetrates 3J miles
west-south-westward, and contracts to a width of 11 fur-
longs, but re-expands presently to a width of 15. It is
noted for its oyster beds; contains, in its upper part, the
islets of Damsay and Grimbister Holm; sends off, from its
NW corner, the little bay of Isbister; and is bounded on
the lower reach of its northern side by Kendall parish,
of its southern side by Kirkwall or St Ola parish.
Firth, a parish in the mainland of Orkney, bounded
N by Kendall parish, E by Firth Bay and Kirkwall
parish, S by Orphir and Stenness, and \f by Harray.
It includes the islets of Damsay and Grimbister Holm;
contains FINSTOWN village; and is united to STKNNK.SS.
The united parish of Firth and Stenness, in its SW or
Stenness portion, communicates by a bridge with Strom-
ness parish, and is largely bounded by Stenness Locli and
Hoy Sound. Its greateal length, from NE to SW. is HI,
miles; and its greatest breadth is 4J miles. The shores
of the united parish are undulating and fertile; but the
interior consists largely of moor and hill, covered with
heath and peat-moss. Between 1841 and 1879, how-
ever, the late Mr Robert Scarth of BINSCARTH did
much in the way of reclaiming, enclosing, draining,
liming, and planting improvements described at length
in pp. 48-51 of Trans. Hiijhl. and Ag. Soc. (1874). A
lake and a singular Caledonian monument are noticed in
our article on STENNESS. This parish is in the presby-
tery of Cairston and synod of Orkney; the living is worth
208. There are 2 parish churches, that of Firth built
in 1813, and that of Stenness (7. s.) in 1793. There are
also a U.P. church of Firth and Free churches of Firth
and Stenness; and 2 public schools. Firth and Stenness,
with respective accommodation for 160 and 121 children,
have an average attendance of 113 and 59, and grants
of 139, 13s. lOd. and 76, 5s. 7d. Valuation of Firth
and Stenness (1881) 1752, 10s. 10d.; (1891) 3061, 15
Top. (1881) 1362, (1891) 1325.
Fishcross, a village near Sauchie in the detached
portion of Clackmannan parish until 1891, when it with
this detached portion was transferred to the parish of
Alloa, Clackmannanshire. It is 2 miles NNE of the
town of Alloa. Pop., together with Sauchie, (1871) 419,
(1881) 320, (1891) 484.
Fisherie, a hamlet in King Edward parish, NW
Aberdeenshire, 8 miles NNE ot Turriif, under which it
has a post office.
Fisherrow. See MUSSELBURGH.
Fisherton, a hamlet and a quoad sacra parish in May-
bole parish, Ayrshire. The hamlet lies near the coast,
14 mile SW of the Heads of Ayr, and 6 miles SW of Ayr,
its station and post-town. The parish is in the presby-
tery of Ayr and synod of Glasgow and Ayr; the minis-
ters stipend is 168. The church was originally a chapel
of ease, and was preceded by a preaching station com-
menced about 1820. Pop. (1871) U09, (1881) 609, (1891)
598. Ord. Sur., sh. 14, 1863.
Fishertown, Banffshire. See CULLEN.
Fish-Holm, a small island in Uelting parish, Shetland,
3 miles S of the southern extremity of Yell.
Fishie. See FESHIE.
Fishlin, a small island in the N of Shetland, 6 miles
S of the southern extremity of Yell.
Fishwick, an ancient parish of SE Berwickshire,
united to Hutton in 1614. Its small, long, narrow
church, standing close to the left bank of the Tweed,
7 furlongs above the Union Chain Bridge, and 5J miles
WSW of Berwick, belonged for some time to the monks
of Coldingham, and is now a picturesque ruin. The
ancient cemetery lies around the ruin, and is still
occasionally in use.
Fishwives' Causeway. See DUDDIKCSTON.
Fitch, a village in the S of Shetland, 3! 2 miles from
its post-town, Lerwick.
Fitful Head (Old Norse fit-fall), a large bold headland
in Dunrossness parish, Shetland, Hanking the NW
side of Quendale Voe, 6 miles NW of Sumburgh Head.
It rises to a height of 928 feet; is seen at a great
distance by vessels approaching from the SW; and
consists chiefly of clay slate. In the J'irate Scott fixes
here the abode of the prophetess, Norna.
Fithie, a beautiful lake (3J x 4 furl.), with wooded
shores, in Forfar parish, Forfarshire, 1J mile ENE of
the town. It contains perch and pike, and gives very
good sport, but is not open to the public, though a
limited number of permits are given on application to
the proprietor. An object of interest near at hand is
the Priory of Restennet.
Fithie, a rivulet of SW Forfarshire. It rises on
Balcallo Hill at an altitude of 800 feet above sea-
level, and running 8 miles south-eastward, through or
along the borders of Tealing, Murroes, Dundee, and
Monifieth parishes, falls into Dichty Water, 1J mile
above that stream's entrance to the Firth of Tay. It
makes, in its lowermost reach, valuable alluvial deposits
on its banks. Ord. Sur., shs. 48, 49, 1868-65.
Fittick, a place in Nigg parish, Kimrrdineshirc, on
Nigg Bay, 1 j mile SE of Aberdeen. It was the site of
an ancient church, St Fittick's, now extinct; and it
once gave name to Nigg Bay.
Fitty, a lake on the mutual border of Dunfermline
and Beath parishes, Fife, 3 miles NE of Dunfermline
town. It measures 1 by J mile; is rather shallow, and
of tame aspect; receives a stream of 3 miles in length
of run from the Saline Hills; sends off Lochfitty Burn
4 miles east-north-eastward to the Orr; and contains
pike, perch, and mussels. Ord. Kur., sh. 40, 1867.
Fitty, a hill in the W of Wcstray island, Orkney.
The highest part of a range, called elsewhere Skea
and Gallo, it rises to the height of 652 feet above sea-
level, and was used in 1821 as a station of the Trigono-
metrical Survey.
Five Mile House, a hamlet in Liff and Benvie parish,
Forfarshire, 5 miles NW of Dundee, under which it has
a post office.
Fladda or Fladday, an island of Portree parish, Inver-
ness-shire, in Raasay Sound, 4 miles E of the nearest
FLADDA
part of Skye, and 9 NE of Portree town. It measures
14 by 4 mile, and is separated from Raasay only by a
narrow strait, which is dry at half-tide. Fop. (1861)
45, (1871) 54, (1881) 54, (1891) 51.
Fladda, an island of South Uist parish, Outer Hebrides,
Inverness-shire, immediately N of Rona island, and 24
miles SE of the nearest part of North Uist island. It
measures 44. miles in circumference. Pop. (1861) 48,
(1871) 76, (1881) 87, (1891) 76.
Fladda, a small island of Barra parish, Outer Hebrides,
Inverness-shire, 2 miles S of Vatersay.
Fladda, the northernmost of the Treshinish isles in
Kilninian and Kilmore parish, Argyllshire, 3 miles SW
of Treshinish Point, a north-western extremity of Mull.
Its surface is flat and monotonous.
Fladda or Pladda, an islet of Jura parish, Argyllshire,
near Easdale. A lighthouse on it shows a fixed light
visible at the distance of 11 nautical miles, red towards
the Bogha-Nuadh rock, and white towards the main-
land and channel to the S, but masked in other
Fladda,' a flat islet in the NW extremity of Harris
parish, Outer Hebrides, Inverness-shire, in the mouth of
Loch Reasort.
Fladda, an uninhabited pastoral islet of Kilmuir
parish, Inverness-shire, 4J miles SE of Aird Point in
Skye.
Fladdachuain, an uninhabited pastoral islet of Kilmuir
parish, Inverness-shire, 6 miles NW of Aird Point in
Skye. It measures J mile in length and 300 yards in
average breadth; is clothed with remarkably fine grass;
had anciently three burying-places ; and also, till a
recent period, retained nine stones of an ancient Cale-
donian stone circle. A one-inch diameter ring, of plaited
gold wires, was found in a moss here, and bought for
the Edinburgh Antiquarian Museum in 1851.
Fladibister, a hamlet in Dunrossness parish, Shetland,
8 miles S of Lerwick.
Flanders Moss, a tract of low, flat ground in the NE
of Drymen parish, SW Stirlingshire, on the southern
bank of the Forth. Lying from 40 to 60 feet above
sea-level, it is believed to have passed from the condi-
tion of a rich alluvial plain to that of a bog, through
the overthrow of a forest on it by the Roman army in
the time of Severus; and has, to a great extent, in recent
times, been reclaimed by means of channel cuttings to
the Forth. It is skirted, to the SE, by the Forth and
Clyde Junction section of the North British railway.
Ord. Sur., sh. 38, 1871.
Flannan Isles or Seven Hunters, a group of seven
small uninhabited islands in Uig parish, Outer Hebrides,
Ross-shire, 21 miles WNW of Gallon Head in Lewis.
Called by Buchanan Insulce Sacrce, they possess some
monuments, supposed to be religious relics of the ancient
Caledonians, but seemingly as late as the 7th or 8th
century; and they are frequented by immense flocks of
sea-fowl.
Fleet, a small river of SE Sutherland, rising at an
altitude of 750 feet above sea-level, 2 miles E by S of
Lairg church, and thence winding 16J cast-south-east-
ward, till it falls below Little FERRY into the Dornoch
Firth. Its principal affluent is the CAIRNAIO, and it
intersects or bounds the parishes of Lairg, Kogart, Gol-
spie, and Dornoch. In its upper and middle reaches it
traverses a fine glen called from it Strathfleet; lower
down it expands into a tidal lagoon, Loch Fleet (3J x Ig
miles), similar to the lagoons of the Forfarshire South
Eskand the Findhorn; but in the last mile above its
mouth it again contracts to a width of from 1 to 24
furlongs. Its strath, from a point near the source all
down to the head of the lagoon, is traversed by the
Sutherland section of the Highland railway, in a gradi-
ent of 1 in 84; and its stream, f mile NW of Rogart
station, near the High Rock of Craigmore, is crossed by
the railway on a stone viaduct with a single arch of 55
feet in span. The lagoon is crossed towards its head
by the Mound, an embankment 1000 yards long, which,
taking over the public road for the eastern seaboard of
Sutherland, was completed in 1816 at a cost of 12,500,
and is pierced at its E end with four arches and sluices
for the transit of the river and of tidal currents. Above
the Mound the lagoon isnowmainlyaswampy flat, covered
with alders ; below, it has been curtailed to the extent of 400
acres, by the reclamation of its bed from the tides; and
within its mouth it contains a harbour 260 yards broad,
with 18 feet of water at ebb tide, perfectly sheltered in all
kinds of weather, and serving for the importation of coals,
lime, bone-dust, and general merchandise, and for the ex-
portation of agricultural and distillery produce. The
river is frequented by sea-trout, grilse, and salmon; and
the neck of it between the lagoon and the sea contains a
fine salmon cast ' the only spot in the kingdom where
angling for salmon has been successfully practised in
salt water.' The depth of water over the bar at the
river's mouth is 18 feet at full spring tide, and 44 feet
at ebb tide. Ord. Sur., shs. 102, 103, 1881-78.
Fleet Street. See ANWOTH and GATEHOUSE.
Fleet, Water of, a small river of Girthon parish, SW
Kirkcudbrightshire. The Big Water of Fleet is formed
at a point 2| miles above a 20-arch viaduct of the Dum-
fries and Portpatrick railway, by the confluence of Car-
rouch, Mid, and Cardson Burns, which all three rise on
the eastern side of CAIRNSMOKE OF FLEET (2331 feet).
Thence it runs 64. miles south-south-eastward along the
Kirkmabreck and Anwoth border, till it is joined by the
Little Water of Fleet, which, issuing from triangular
Loch Fleet (3 x 2 furl. ; 1120 feet), has a south-by-easterly
ses charming scenery throughout
dies, and is navigable by small
c. Its waters are strictly prc-
the stream, as Water of Fleet, flows 4^ miles south-by-
eastward, and then, a little below Gatehouse, expands
over the last 3g miles of its course into the line estuary
of Fleet Bay. It ti-
lts middle or lower
vessels up to Gatehouse. Its waters are strictly pre-
served, and trout, sea-trout, and herlings are plentilul,
but salmon nowadays are few and far between. Ord.
Sur., shs. 4, 5, 1857.
Flemington, a village in Avondale parish, Lanarkshire,
containing Strathaven station, and 4. mile NE of the
town.
Flemington, a village in Ayton parish, Berwickshire,
near the North British railway, ^ mile E by N of Aytou
station.
Flemington, a burn in Newlands parish, Peeblesshire,
running 4} miles south-westward, till, alter a total de-
scent of 700 feet, it falls into Lyne Water, 2 miles S by
E of Romanno Bridge.
Flemington, an estate, with an old castle, in Aber-
lemno parish, Forfarshire, the property of Patrick Web-
ster, Esq. of Westlield. The castle, standing 300 yards
E of the parish church, presents a strong and stately
appearance. It was inhabited by the proprietor till
about 1830, and afterwards was occupied by farm-
servants.
Flemington, a collier village, of recent growth, in
Cambuslang parish, NW Lanarkshire, 1 mile from Cam-
buslang town. Pop. (1881) 691, (1891) 796.
Flemington, an estate, with a mansion, in Petty parish,
NE Inverness-shire, f mile NE of Fort George station
on the Highland railway. Loch Flemington (4J x 1J
furl.) lies 1 mile SSE on the Croy border, half in the
county of Nairn and half in that of Inverness. Ord.
Sur., sh. 84, 1876.
Fleurs. See FLOORS.
Flexfield, a hamlet in Mouswald parish, Dumfries-
shire, 6J miles E by S of Dumfries.
Flint, an eastern oll'shoot of the Broughton Heights,
on the mutual border of Stobo and Kirkurd parishes,
Peeblesshire, 4J miles NNE of Rachan Mill. It has an
altitude of 1756 feet above sea-level.
Flisk, a parish of N Fife, whose church to the NE
stands 1 furlong S of the Firth of Tay, 6 miles ENE of
Newburgh station, and 7j NNW of the post-town
Cupar, whilst on its SW border is the little village of
Glenduckie, 4J miles E by S of Newburgh. Bounded
NW and N by the Firth of" Tay, E by Balmerino, SE by
Creich, S by the Aytonhill section of Abdie, and SW
by Dunbog, it has an utmost length from ENE to WSW
of 4i miles, a varying breadth of 4J furlongs and 2
miles, and an area of 2854J acres, of which 240j are
foreshore. The firth, expanding here from 1 J to 3 miles,
is fringed by a level strip 70 to 550 yards in breadth,
beyond which the surface rises rapidly to 714 feet at
Glenduckie Hill, 800 on the boundary with Abdie, and
600 on that with Crcich, whilst from Glenduckie sinking
again to less than 200 on the Dunbog border. The
rocks are partly eruptive, partly Devonian, and the soi
in general is a clayey loam. Rather more than one-
tenth of the entire area is under wood, one-fifteenth is
natural pasture, and all the rest is under cultivation.
Ballanbreicli Castle, a picturesque ruin, has been separ-
ately noticed. Two parsons of Flisk in the first half of
the 16th century, John Waddell and James Ballbur,
were judges of the Court of Session; and another, John
Wemyss, towards the close of that century, became
principal of St Leonard's College, St Andrews. Giving
olf a portion quoad sacra to Dunbog, Flisk is in the
presbytery of Cupar and synod of Fife; the living is
worth 184. The parish church, which was built in
1790, was renovated in 1888 ; and a public school,
with accommodation for 73 children, has an average
attendance of 45, and a grant of 55, 18s. Valuation
(1866) 3666, 16s. 3d., (1882) 4452, 2s. 10d., (1892)
3205, 17s. Pop. of civil parish (1801) 300, (1831) 286,
(1861) 313, (1871) 280, (1881) 259, (1891) 248; of q. s.
parish (1871) 212, (1881) 213, (1891) 192. Ord. Sur.,
sh. 48, 1868.
Float Bay or Port Float, a small bay in Stoneykirk
parish, Wigtownshire, 6 miles SE of Portpatrick. It is
said to have got its name from the wreck here of some
of the ships of the Spanish Armada or 'Flota;' but
above it is the moss or flow of 'Meikle Float.'
Float Moss, a large expanse of low meadowy ground
in Carstairs, Carmvath, and Pettinain parishes, Lanark-
shire, along the banks of the Clyde, in the south-eastern
vicinity of Carstairs Junction. It used to be frequently
flooded by freshets of the river, so as at times to resemble
a large and dreary-looking lake; and it took its name
(rom a float or large boat which formerly served in lieu
of a bridge across the Clyde, and which cost 500. The
Caledonian railway goes across it, on works which were
formed at great expense; and it has here timber viaducts
for allowing free scope to the freshets of the river.
Flodda. See FLADDA.
Flodigarry, an ancient house in Kilmuir parish, Isle
of Skye, Inverness-shire. A loud rumbling noise, heard
from beneath an eminence in its close vicinity, is sup-
]>osed to be caused by the roll of sea-billows into some
natural tunnel or subterranean cavern.
Floors Castle, the seat of the Duke of Roxburghe, in
Kelso parish, Roxburghshire, 3 furlongs from the N
bank of the Tweed, and 1J mile WNW of Kelso town.
As built for the first Duke in 1718 by Sir John Vanbrugh,
a better playwright than architect, it was severely plain,
not to say heavy-looking; but in 1849 and following
years the whole was transformed by Playfair of Edin-
burgh into a sumptuous Tudor pile one of the most
palatial residences of the Scottish nobility. The gar-
dens, too, already beautiful, were greatly extended
(1857-60) ; the home farm, to the rear of the castle,
was rearranged and in great measure rebuilt (1875) ;
and no fewer than 120 model cottages were erected on
the estate all these improvements being carried out by
James, sixth Duke (1816-79), who had the honour of
receiving visits here from Queen Victoria (Aug. 1867),
the Prince and Princess of Wales, the Duke of Edin-
burgh, the Duke of Albany, etc. John, third Duke
(1740-1804), is remembered as a famous bibliomaniac.
His library, numbering nearly 10,000 books, was sold in
1812, when the first edition of the Decameron (1471)
brought 2260, and Caxton's Historyc of Troyc (1461)
1000 guineas. John Henry Innes-Ker is the present and
eighth Duke since 1707 (b. 1876; sue. 1892) Ord. Sur.,
sh. 25, 1865. See ROXBURGH, KELSO, and CESSFORD.
Flotta, an island in the S of Orkney, lying nearly
midway between Hoy and South Ronaldshay, and flank-
ing part of the southern side of Scalpa Flow, 15 miles
FOCHABEES
SSW of Kirkwall. It has a post-office under Stromness.
It measures 3J miles in length from NE to SW, by 2J
miles in extreme breadth, and is deeply pierced on the
north-eastern side by an elongated bay called Pan-
hope, which forms an excellent harbour. The coast
is mostly high and rocky; the interior low, tame, and
heathy, consisting mainly of sandstone and sandstone-
flag. Specially well situated for fishing, and famous
for its excellent fishing boats, it was the residence
of the ancient Norwegian historiographer, sent from
Norway to collect information respecting Scotland, and
gave name to his work, the Codex FloUicensis, from
which Torfeus and subsequent historians drew much of
their materials on the ancient condition of the northern
districts of Scotland. In the parish of WALLS and
Flotta the island has been erected into a quoad sacra
parish. Pop. (1841) 405, (1861) 420, (1871) 423, (1881)
425, (1891) 423.
Flotta-Calf, a pastoral island of Flotta parish, Orkney,
adjacent to the north-eastern extremity of Flotta island,
and measuring 2 miles in circumference.
Flowerdale, an old-fashioned mansion of the middle
of the eighteenth century, with beautiful grounds and
finely-wooded policies, in Gairloch parish, NW Ross-
shire, adjacent to Gairloch village, and to the head of
the Gair Loch. It is the seat of Sir Kenneth-Smith
Mackenzie of Gairloch, sixth Bart, since 1703 (b. 1832;
sue. 1843). His ancestor, 'Eachin Roy' or ' Red Hector,'
second son of Alexander, seventh chieftain of Kintail,
obtained a grant of Gairloeh barony from James IV. in
1494. Attached to the mansion is a deer forest, 10,000
acres in extent.
Flowerhill. See AIRHRIE.
Fluchter, a village in Baldernock parish, SW Stirling-
shire, 2 miles E of Milngavie.
Fludha, an estate, with a mansion, in Kirkcudbright
parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, 1J mile from the town.
Fochabers, a small town in Bellie parish, NE Elgin-
shire. It stands, 140 feet above sea-level, on the right
bank of the Spey, 4 miles above its mouth, with a ter-
minal station on the Fochabers branch (opened 1893)
of the Forres and Keith section of the Highland railway.
The branch line connects at Orbliston junction, 3 miles
WSW, 6i ESE of Elgin, 11J WNW of Keith. Its present
site is an elevated gravel terrace in a deep wooded valley,
but it stood in the immediate vicinity of GORDON CASTLE
till the close of the eighteenth century, when, to improve
the grounds of that noble mansion, it was rebuilt on the
line of road from Aberdeen to Inverness, about a mile
farther S. The ancient market-cross still stands in the
ducal park. A handsome three-arch bridge, 382 feet
long, that spans the Spey here, was partly swept away
by the great flood of 1829, which raised the river nearly
9 feet above its ordinary level. The town has a quad-
rangular outline, with central square and streets at right
angles one to another; presents a neat, well-built, and
modern appearance; serves as a business centre for a
considerable extent of surrounding country; communi-
cates by coach with Fochabers station; and has a post
office, with money order, savings bank, insurance, and
railway telegraph departments, branches of the Union
Town and County Banks, a savings bank, insurance
agencies, several hotels, a horticultural and industrial
society, a company of the Elginshire Rifle Volunteers, a
county police station (1869), a reading-room and library,
and a gas-light company. Fairs are held on the third
Thursday of January and February, the fourth Wednes-
day of March, the fourth Thursday of April and May,
the first Thursday of July, the second Wednesday of
August, and the first Thursday of October and December;
and sheriff small debt courts sit on the Saturday after
the second Monday of February, June, and October.
Bellie parish church, on the S side of the square, is a
handsome edifice of 1797, with a portico and a spire.
Other places of worship are a Free church, a Roman
Catholic church (1828), and an Episcopal church, which,
built in 1835 at a cost of 1200, was, at a further cost of
er 2000, internally restored in 1874. The antiquary,
George Chalmers (1742-1825), and William Marshall
(1748-1833), whom Burns styles 'the first composer of
Strathspeys of the age,' were both born at the old town.
Milne's Free School arose from a bequest of 20,000 by
Alexander Milne, another native, who died at New
Orleans in 1838. Opened with great ceremony in 1846,
it is a splendid edifice, finely situated, and comprises a
hall (58 by 22 feet), 4 other class-rooms, and a rector's
dwelling-house. It is conducted by a rector, two Eng-
lish masters, a science master, an arithmetic and writing
master, and 3 mistresses all appointed by a body of
directors, and with accommodation for 516 children, it
has an average attendance of 292, and a grant of 348,
10s. The town is a burgh of barony, governed by a
baron bailie under the Duke of Richmond and Gordon.
Pop. (1891) 1101. Ord. Sur., sh. 95, 1876.
Fodderty, a parish of south-eastern Ross and Crom-
arty, traversed for 6J miles by the Dingwall and Skye
branch of the Highland railway, from a point 1| mile
W by N of Dingwall to the foot of Loch Garve. Strath-
peffer station, on a short branch line, lies 4J miles
WSW of Dingwall; and the parish also contains STRATH-
rEFFEii Spa, AUCHTERNEED hamlet, and MAKYEUIIOH
village. It is bounded N by Kincardine, NE by Alness,
Kiltearn, and Dingwall, SE by Urquhart, S by Urray,
and SW by Contin. Its area is 64,230 acres, of which
988J are water. Previous to 1891 the parish had two
detached parts one (containing 18,474 acres) situated
at Dalbreac and almost surrounded by the parish of Con-
tin, the other situated at Keithtown, and separated from
the main portion by a strip of Dingwall parish two-thirds
of a furlong broad at the narrowest. In that year the
small portion of the Dalbreac detached part situated near
Loch an Spardain was transferred by the Boundary Com-
missioners to the parish of Urray, and the remainder of
this detached part given to the parish of Contin. The
Keithtown detached portion of Fodderty parish was
united to the main portion by the annexation of the
intervening strip of Dingwall parish. The CONAN flows
If mile north-north-eastward to the head of Cromarty
Firth; whilst the PEFFER, rising at an altitude of
1750 feet, winds 7J miles south -south-eastward and
cast-by-northward, till, 1J mile above its mouth, it
passes off iuto Dingwall. Lakes are Loch Ussie (6| x 4
furl.; 419 feet); Lochs GARVE (1^x4 mile; 220 feet)
and Gorm (2 x 2J furl; 1900 feet), on the Contin bor-
der; CEOM Loch (J milexSJ furl.; 1720 feet), on the
Kincardine border; and Loch Toll a' Mhuic (5j x 2
furl.; 880 feet), in the north-western interior. The
surface declines to 20 feet above sea-level along the
Peifer, and S of the railway attains 579 feet at conical
Knockfarril, 801 at Creag Ulladail, and 874 at Creag
an Fhithieh; north-westward it rises to 1172 at Druim
a' Chuileiu, 1705 at Cam Gorm, 3106 at An Cabar, 3429
at huge lumpish *BEN WYVIS, 2206 at *Carn nan Con
Ruadha, and 2551 at Meall a' Ghrianain, where asterisks
mark those summits that culminate on the confines of
the parish, the highest point in whose detached portion
is 628 feet. A calcareo-bituminous rock fish-bed schist
of the Old Red sandstone series occurs in large quan-
tities in the lower parts of Fodderty. It emits, when
broken, a peculiar foetid odour; and to it the Wells
owe their ingredients and properties. A seam of soft
friable bitumen in a hill above Castle-Leod is capable of
yielding a high percentage of oil, though not enough to
repay the cost of working, as proved by investigations of
1870-71. The rocks of the mountainous north-western
region are gneissose chiefly, of Silurian age. The soil
of the arable lands ranges from a strong reddish clay to
H fine free loam, and great improvements have been
carried out on the Earl of Cromartie's property since
1867 in the way of reclaiming, fencing, planting,
building, etc. ; still the arable area is small, com-
pared with hill-pasture and moorland. A
ing 260 feet by 20, is o
on Cromarty estate are remains of two stone circles; two
standing stones adjoin the parish church; and several
kistvaens or ancient stone coffins have been found to
the N of the churchyard. The chief antiquity, the
vitrified fort on KNOCKFARRIL, is noticed separately,
FORBES
as also is the chief mansion, CASTLE-LEOD. Giving off
portions to the qtwttd sacra parishes of Carnaeh and
Kinlochluichart, Fodderty is in the presbytery of Ding-
wall and synod of Ross; the living is worth 267. The
parish church, 9 furlongs ESE of Strathpeffer station,
was built in 1807, and, as enlarged in 1835, contains
640 sittings. There are two Free churches, one of Mary-
burgh and one of Fodderty; and two public schools,
Fodderty and Maryburgh, with respective accommo-
dation for 196 and 199 children, have an average attend-
ance of 127 and 156, and grants of 143 and 186,
hom 13
Pop. of civil parish (1881) 2047, (1891) 1897, of
317 were Gaelic-speaking; of ecclesiastical parish
(1881) 1880, (1891) 1866. Ord. Sur., shs. 83, 93, 1881.
Foffarty, a property in Kinnettles parish, Forfarshire,
3 miles SSW of Forfar. A Roman Catholic chapel, witli
manse and offices, was built here soon after the Refor-
mation, on the margin of a den at the foot of Kincaldrum
Hill; and, burned by a party of royal dragoons in 1745,
was razed to the foundations in 1816.
Fogo, a hamlet and a parish of central Berwickshire.
The hamlet lies on the right bank of Blackadder Water,
1J mile E of Marchmont station, and 44 miles S by W
of its post-town, Duns.
The parish is bounded N and NE by Edrom, E by
Swinton, S by Eccles, SW by Grcenlaw, and NW by
Polwarth. Its utmost length, from ENE to WSW, is
5J miles; its utmost breadth is 2 miles; and its area is
4669 acres, of which 17i are water. Blackadder Water
winds 3 j miles north-eastward through the north-western
interior, and then for 1 mile traces the northern border;
its channel is a sort of huge furrow here, between
parallel ranges of low heights, that nowhere sink much
below 300, or much exceed 500, fe
feet above sea-level.
Sandstone, the principal rock, was formerly quarried ;
and boulder clay lies so deep that the steep banks of the
Blackadder can be ploughed within a few yards of the
stream. The soil on the higher grounds is a deep black
loam, extremely fertile; that of the lower grounds is
thinner, and lies on till, yet is very far from being un-
productive. Some 300 acres are under wood, 40 or so
are natural pasture, and all the rest of the land is under
cultivation. A Roman camp, crowning a commanding
elevation (500 feet) at Chesters, near the south-western
extremity of the parish, and approached by a causeway
through a marsh, has been nearly obliterated by the
operations of agriculture. Caldra and Chartcrhall, both
separately noticed, are mansions. Fogo is in the pres-
bytery of Duns and synod of Merse and Teviotdale; the
living is worth 329. The parish church, on the Black-
adder's bank, at the village, is an old and picturesque,
ing, enlarged in 1853, and contai
ivy-mantled buildi
278 sittings. A public school, also at the village, with
odation
&
verage at-
childr
tendance of 65, and a grant
(1881) 468, (1891) 420. Ord. Sur., shs. 26, 25, 1864-63.
Foinaven or Foinne-Bheinn, a mountain (2980 feet)
on the mutual border of Eddrachillis and Durness parish,
NW Sutherland, 5J miles WSW of the head of Loch
Eriboll.
Folda, a hamlet in Glenisla parish, NW Forfarshirc,
13 miles NNW of Alyth. It has a public school and a
post office under Alyth.
Follart, Loch. See DUNVEGAN.
Foodiecast, a hamlet in the SW corner of Dairsie
parish, Fife, If mile N of Cupar.
Footdee. See ABERDEEN.
Fopachy, a landing-place for vessels, but without any
proper harbour, in Kirkhill parish, Inverness-shire, on
the S side of Beauly Firth, 2 mile NW of Bunchrew
station on the Highland railway.
Forbes, a hamlet and an ancient parish in Aberdcen-
shire. The hamlet lies on the left bank of the river
Don, at the Bridge of Alford, Ij mile WNW of Alford
village, the terminus of the Alford Valley line, a branch
of the Great North of Scotland railway, and under which
Forbes has a post office. There is a good inn at the
hamlet, the Forbes Arms. The parish was annexed in
1722 to Kearn, from which it is separated by a range of
FORD
hills; and has, since 1808, been united to Tullynessle.
It has belonged, from the 13th century, to the noble
family of Forbes of CASTLE FORBES. Ord. Sur., sh. 76,
1874.
Ford, a village in Borthwick and Cranston parishes,
Edinburghshire, on the left bank of the river Tyne, 4 mile
W by N of Pathhead, 4J miles ESE of Dalkeith, and 10J
SE of Edinburgh. It practically forms one village with
Pathhead, but it has a post office of its own name under
Dalkeith, with money order, savings bank, and tele-
aph departments, and a United Presbyterian church,
lilt in 1851. See CRANSTON and PATHHEAD. Ord.
Hf
Dalgety parish,
s NNE of Inver-
Ford. See FORD-LOOHAWE
Fordel, an estate, with a ma
Fife. The mansion, standing 2J miles N!
keithing, is a castellated edifice, whose picturesque
grounds contain a darkly wooded glen, with a cascade
of 50 feet in fall. It was the seat of George William
Mercer-Henderson, Esq. (1823-81), who owned 1955 acres
in the shire, and on whose death Fordel passed to his
youngest sister, Edith Isabella, married in 1866 to the
Hon. Hew Adam Dalrymple Hamilton Haldane Duncan
(second son of the first Earl of Camperdown), who added
aMercer-Henderson to his name. Extensive coal mines,
worked on the estate since 1600, still yield a large though
:i diminished output. They lie beneath a surface rising
from a few feet to 420 feet above sea-level, being chiefly
situated in the southern and south-eastern vicinity of
Crossgates; and have a tram railway, called the Fordel
railway, 4 miles in length, communicating with the sea-
board village of St Davids, 1J mile E by S of Inver-
kcithing. Ord. Sur., shs. 40, 32, 1867-57.
Fordel Square, a collier village in Dalgety parish,
Fife, contiguous to the boundary with Aberdour, and on
the Fordel railway, near its northern extremity, j mile
ESE of Crossgates. Part of it is called Wemyss Square,
and the whole is often called simply Fordel. Pop.
(1861) 813, (1871) 641, (1881) 488, (1891) 589.
Ford-Lochawe, a village in Kilmartin and Glassary
parishes, Argyllshire, .', mile SSW of the head of Loch
Awe, and 12 miles N of Lochgilphead. It has a post
and telegraph oflice. During the summer months it
forms a point of communication between Ardrishaig and
the foot of Loch Awe, a public coach running from the
former to the pier at Ford, whence a steamer sails down
the loch to Loch Awe station, at the north end. It has
an inn, a public school, and a chapel of ease conjoint
with one at Lochgair. Ord. Sur., sh. 37, 1876.
Ford of Frew, a ford in the river Forth, on the
mutual boundary of Stirlingshire and Perthshire, 3
furlongs NE of Kippcn station. It was formerly de-
fended by a small fortress.
Ford of Pitcur, a hamlet in Kettins parish, Forfar-
shire, 3 miles SE of Coupar-Angus.
Fordoun, a parish in Kincardineshire, containing the
post-olliee, village of Arcin\ni,AK. 5 : ,' miles N by E of
Laurencekirk, and 2J NNW of Fordoun station, on the
Scottish North- Hasten, section of the Caledonian, which
station is 27J miles SSW of Aberdeen, and 30 NE of
Forfar, and at which is a post oflice of Fordoun, with
money order, savings bank, insurance, and telegraph
departments.
The parish is bounded NW and N by Strachan, NE by
Glenbervie, SE by Arbuthnott, S by Laurencekirk and
Marykirk, and W by Fettercairn. Its greatest length,
from E to W, is 10J miles: its utmost breadth, from N
to S, is 7jJ miles; and its area is 26,937 acres, of which 88i
are water. BERVIE Water, gathering its four head-
streams in the northern extremity of the parish, winds 11
miles south-eastward and south-by-westward, chiefly
along the Glenbervie and Arbuthnott borders; LUTHER
Water, from its source above Drumtochty, curves 5J
miles south-eastward and southward, past Auchinblae,
on its way to the river North Esk ; and of two of its
own little tributaries, Fordun Water and Dourie Burn,
the former traverses the western interior, the latter
traces the boundary with Fettercairn. Sinking along
Bervie Water to 170, along Luther Water to 190 feet,
FORDOUN
above sea-level, the surface thence rises to 717 feet
at Knock Hill, 725 at Herscha Hill, 1055 at Black Hill,
1358 at Strathfinella Hill, 1000 at Arnbarrow Hill, 1664
at *Whitelaws, 1488 at 'Cairn O'Mount, 1194 at Hill of
Annahar, 1527 at *Goyle Hill, 1146 at Aikenhead, and
1291 at the *Builg, where asterisks mark those summits
that culminate right on the north-western border. The
northern and larger portion of the parish, known as the
Brae district, consists thus of ridges and spurs of the
frontier Grampians, with intersecting glens and vales;
and presents, especially along the course of Luther Water,
and around the base of Strathfinella Hill, not a few scenes
of more than common beauty. The southern district,
part of the Howe of the llearns, is all nearly level,
nowhere attaining 300 feet above sea-level. The
principal rocks of the uplands are clay slate, mica slate,
and other metamorphic rocks ; those of the Howe are
New Red sandstone, sandstone conglomerate, and
intruded trap; and limestone occurs at Drumtochty and
Glenfarquhar. The soil of this, the most important agri-
cultural parish in the county, is very various. A large
proportion is strong clayey loam, a considerable extent
good medium loam, and a pretty large area light loam.
The subsoil is a mixture of clay and gravel in some
parts, and hard gravel in others (Trans, ffiyhl. and
Ag. Soc., 1881, pp. 115-117). Fully one-thirteenth
of the entire parish is under wood, and rather less
than one-half is arable. Near Fordoun House are
traces of a Roman camp; the 'Priest's Wells,' in
' Friar's Glen,' above Drumtochty, mark the probable
site of a religious house, said to have been a Carmelite
friary ; a stone circle stood on Herscha Hill, an
ancient castle in Glenfarquhar ; and Arnbarrow Hill
was traversed by the Deer Dyke. Antiquities, noticed
elsewhere, are FINELLA CASTLE, CASTLETOX, and the
site of the town of KINCARDINE, the former capital of
the county. George Wishart, burned at St Andrews
as a heretic in 1546, was of Pittarrow; and other natives
of Fordoun were Alexander Hamilton, M.D. (1739-1802),
an eminent physician, and the judge James Burnet, Lord
Monboddo (1714-99), who anticipated Darwin in an evo-
lution theory of monkeys whose tails wore oti' with con-
stant sitting. So, too, according to Camden, was John
of Fordun, a 14th century chronicler, whose ' carefully
manipulated fictions' the Scotichronicon'ha,ve been
edited by Dr Skene (Edinb. 1871) for the ' Historians of
Scotland ' series. To Fordun this parish is mainly in-
debted for its supposed connection with the ' chief apostle
of the Scottish nation,' St Palladius, whose name is pre-
served in Paldy Fair, and whose chapel, with a rude piscina,
still stands in the parish churchyard. In 430, we are
told, Pope Celestine sent him to Scotland (' in Scotiam')
' as the first bishop therein, with Serf and Ternan lor
fellow- workers; and at Fordoun he founded a church, and
shortly afterwards there was crowned with martyrdom.'
But ' Scotia ' in 430 could have meant Ireland only; and
Skene, in vol. ii. of his Celtic Scotland (1877, pp. 26-32),
shows that St Serf belonged to the latter part of the 7th
ntury. His solution is, that Ternan, and Ternan
alone, really was a disciple of Palladius, and brought his
relics from either Ireland or Galloway to his own native
district in the territories of the southern Picts, who had
been converted by St Ninian, and that, as founder of
the church of Fordoun in honour of Palladius he became
to some extent identified with him. (See also BANCHORY-
TERNAN and CULROSS.) Fordoun House, 1J mile SSE
of Auchinblae, belongs to Viscount Arbuthnott, but is
merely a farmhouse now. Other mansions, treated of
separately, are DRUMTOCHTY CASTLE and MONBODDO
HOUSE. Fordoun gives name to a presbytery in the
synod of Angus and Mearns; the living is worth 308.
The church, a little to the S of Auchinblae, is a good
Gothic structure of 1829, with 1230 sittings, and a con-
spicuous tower 93 feet high. There is also a Free church.
The 'Minstrel,' James Beattie (1735-1803), was parish
schoolmaster from 1753 to 1758. Four public schools
Cocketty, Fordoun, Landsend. and Tipperty with respec-
tive accommodation for 47, 245. 90, and 49 children, have
an average attendance of 38, 1 79, 57, and 1 8, and grants of
FOBDYCE
31, 13s. 6d., 177, 19s. 6d., 53, 2s. 6d., and 29, 9s.
Valuation (1882) 21,610, 10s. 8d., (1892) 18,186, 15s.
5d.,plus 1705 for railway. Pop. (1801) 2203, (1831)
2238. (1861) 2297, (1871) 2113, (1881) 1992, (1891) 2004.
Ord. Sur., sh. 66, 1871.
The presbytery of Fordoun, now meeting at Laurence-
kirk, comprises the quoad civilia parishes of Arbuthuott,
Benholm, Bervie, Dunnottar, Fettercairn, Fetteresso,
Fordoun, Garvock, Glenbervie, Kinneff and Caterline,
Laurencekirk, llarykirk, and St Cyrus, with the quoad
sacra parishes of Cookney and Rickarton, and the chapel-
ries of Johnshaven, Stonehaven-St Bridget's, Stonehaven-
St John's, and Luthermuir. Pop. (1871) 23,895, (1881)
23,830, (1891) 23.257, of whom 7859 were communi-
cauts of the Church of Scotland in 1895. The Free
Church also has a presbytery of Fordoun, with churches
at Benholm, Berne, Fettercairn, Fordoun, Glenbervie,
Kinneff, Laurencekirk, Marykirk, St Cyrus, and Stone-
haven, which together had 1546 communicants in 1894.
Fordyce, a village and a coast parish of Banffshire.
The village, standing on the right bank of the Burn of
Fordyce, 2J miles S\V of Portsoy and 4 ESE of Cullen,
is a burgh of barony, having received its first charter ill
1499, and another in 1592. Its nearest station is Glass-
haugh. It has a post office under Banff, and a fair on
the second Wednesday of November. On the E side of
The Square stands a large castellated building bearing
the date of 1592. Pop. (1881) 331, (1891) 316.
The parish contains also the f
FORFAR
the villages of Sandeud and Ne
of POKTSOY, with
aills, and prior to the
Reformation comprehended likewise the present parishes
of Cullen, Deskford, and Ordiquhill. It is bounded N
by the Moray Firth, E by Boyndie, SE by Ordiquhill,
SW by Grange, and W by Deskford and Cullen. Its
utmost length, from NNE to SSW, is 7 miles; its
utmost breadth, from E to W, is 5J miles; and its area
is 17,430 acres, of which 197 are foreshore and 34J
water. The Burn of BOYNE, rising on the northern
slope of Knock Hill, runs first across the southern
interior, then 7 miles north-north-eastward along all
the Boyndie border to the sea; Di'RN Bum runs 6
miles through the middle of the parish to the sea at
Portsoy; and Fordyce Burn, rising at the boundary
with Deskford, runs 3J miles across the north-western
district to the sea at Sandend Bay. The coast, which,
measured along its sinuosities, is 8J miles long, is some-
what bold and rooky, with bays at Portsoy and Sand-
end, and headlands called East Head, Redhythe Point,
Crathie Point, and Logie Head (189 feet). It is pierced
with several caves, the principal Dove, Kitty, Bow,
Cloutty, and Findlater Caves, none of them of any great
extent. The interior is partly a fine flat, with frequent
inequalities or rising-grounds, and partly a series of
hills, with intervening and flanking vales and dales.
Chief elevations, from N to S, are Cowhythe (257 feet),
Crannoch Hill (300), DURN Hill (651), Fordyce Hill
(580), the Hill of Inverkindling (923), and Knock Hill
(1409), the last of which, culminating at the meeting-
point with Grange and Ordiquhill, presents a majestic
appearance, and serves as a landmark to mariners
throughout a considerable sweep of the Moray Firth.
The rocks exhibit great diversity, at once of character
and of interconnection; and, from the time of Hutton
downward, have strongly attracted the attention of
geologists. A beautiful serpentine forms two masses,
respectively 73 and 1500 feet wide, in the vicinity of
Portsoy, and is associated with syenite, hornblende,
qnartzite, clay slate, limestone, and talc or mica slate,
whilst containing asbestos, amianthus, mountain cork,
steatite, schiller-spar, magnetic iron, chromate of iron,
and other minerals. Mostly greenish and reddish in
hue, sometimes yellowish and greyish-white, it has
often been called Portsoy marble, and is highly valued
material for ornamental objects, having been
i quantity to France for adt
Versailles Palace. Veins of graphite granite, compris-
exported
doming
ing quartz and felspar crystals in such arrangement
that a polished section resembles rudely formed letters,
occur in the same neighbourhood; and t. beautiful
in potteries, has been quarried
- Hill, an'
quartzite, suitable f
on the northern side of Durn Hill', and exported to
England. Limestone has been worked in three quarries
near Fordyce village, near Sandend, and at the mouth
of the Burn of Boyne; and trap rocks, comprising
common greenstone, syenitic greenstone, hypersthenic
greenstone, and augitic greenstone, occupy most of the
interior. The soil is variously a light or a clay loam,
and a strong clay, very productive along the seaboard,
but cold and wet towards the S. One-half of the
entire area is regularly or occasionally in tillage; one-
fifteenth is under wood; and the rest is either pastoral
or waste. Glassaugh House is a chief mansion, and
Findlater Castle a chief antiquity, both being separately
noticed. Other antiquities are remains of an ancient
camp on Durn Hill, and cairns, tumuli, and remains of
ancient Caledonian stone circles in various places. The
seat of a presbytery in the synod of Aberdeen, this
parish is divided ecclesiastically into Fordyce proper
and the quoad sacra parish of Portsoy, the former a
living worth 328. Its parish church, at the village,
was built in 1804, and contains 1100 sittings. At the
village, too, is a Free church; and other places of wor-
ship are noticed under Portsoy. Fordyce Academy,
an institution for the board and education of nine boys
of the name of Smith, natives of the parish, was founded
and endowed in 1790 by Mr George Smith of Bombay.
Besides two schools at Portsoy, the four public schools
of Bogmuchals, Brodiesord, Fordyce, and Sandend, with
respective accommodation for 49, 70, 300, and 89 chil-
dren, have an average attendance of 37, 47, 186, and 67,
and grants of 31, 5s., 42, 8s. 6d., 205, 5s. 6d., and
51, 19s. 6d. Valuation (1882) 19,216, 4s., (1893)
22,204, 6s. Id., including 3407 for railways. Pop
(1801) 2747, (1831) 3364, (1861) 4145, (1871) 4153, (1881)
4289, (1891) 4268, of whom 1994 were in the ecclesias-
tical parish and the registration district of Fordyce.
Ord. Sur., sh. 96, 1876.
The presbytery of Fordyce comprises the quoad civilia
parishes of Banff, Boyndie, Cullen, Desklord, Fordyce,
ad sacra parishes
d Scafield. Pop.
OrdiquMU, and Rathveu, and the qiwad sacra parishes
of Buckie, Enzie, Ord, Portsoy, and S
(1871) 25,776, (1881) 26,345, (1891) 28,456, of who
4890 were communicants of the Church of Scotland in
1895. The Free Church also has a presbytery of For-
dyce, whose ten churches of Banff, Boyndie, Buckie,
Cullen, Deskford, Erizie, Fordyce, Ordiquhill, Port-
knockie, and Portsoy, together had 2566 communicants
in 1894.
Forebank. See DUNDEE.
Foreholm, a small island of Sandsting parish, Shet-
land, 4 mile E of the nearest point of Mainland, and
5 miles S by W of the southern extremity of Yell.
Foreman or Fourman Hill, an eminence at the meet-
ing-point of Forgue, Huntly, and Rothiemay parishes,
on the mutual border of Aberdeen and Banff shires, above
the right bank of the river Deveron, 5 miles NE by N of
Huntly town. It rises to a height of 1127 feet above
sea-level ; has a beautiful form, somewhat conical ; is
finely wooded for a good way up; and commands an ex-
tensive and diversified view. Queen Mary, when on her
way to Rothiemay House, passed over it by what is still
called the Queen's Road. Ord. Sur., sh. 86, 1876.
Foreness, a small peninsula in Sandsting parish,
Shetland, opposite Foreholm, and between Sand Voc
and Sand Sound Voe.
Forestfield. See FOKKESTFIELD.
Forestmill, a hamlet, with a public school, in Clack-
mannan parish, Clackmannanshire, on the left bank of
the Black Devon, 3J miles ENE of Clackmannan town.
The poet Michael Bruce (1746-67) taught a school hero
in 1766.
Forfar, a royal and parliamentary burgh, the seat of
a presbytery, and the capital of Forfarshire or Angus,
is situated in the centre of the southern portion of the
county. By road it is 12} miles S\V of Brechin, 14
NNE of Dundee, and 54 NNE of Edinburgh; whilst,
as the junction of the Dundee and Forfar branch (1870)
of the Caledonian with its ' through ' line to Aberdeen
35
(1839-50), it is 154 miles WSW of Bridge of DUN Junc-
tion, 57J SSW of Aberdeen, 17J N by W of Broughty
Ferry, 80 NNE of Edinburgh (by the Tay and Forth
bridges), 32i NE of Perth, and 95 NE of Glasgow. The
country round is undulating; and the town stands, 200
feet above sea-level, in a kind of basin formed by the
surrounding slopes. It is a burgh of great antiquity,
having been a royal residence in the time of Malcolm
Ceannmor, whose castle was situated on the Castlehill,
a conical mound at the NE end of the town. This is
alleged by Boeee and Buchanan to have been the meet-
ing-place of the parliament held in 1057, at which sur-
names and titles were first conferred on the Scottish
nobility. The castle, from remains in existence at the
beginning of the nineteenth century, is supposed to have
been very extensive, and the ruins furnished building
material for the old steeple and the W entrance of the
old church, as well as for many houses in the town. A
figure of the castle appears in the common seal of the
burgh as well as on the market-cross of 1684, which was
removed about 1830 by the magistrates to the site of the
old castle. Malcolm's queen, St Margaret, had also a
residence on the Inch in Forfar Loch, a sheet of water
which, lying in Glamis parish, but immediately W of
the town, at an altitude of 171 feet, has been reduced
by draining operations to an utmost length and breadth
of 9 and 2 furlongs. The Inch, reduced now to a
peninsula, was for many years regarded as wholly arti-
ficial, a 'crannog' in fact or lake-dwelling; but recent
researches show that it is ' the highest part of a narrow
ridge of natural gravel which runs into tho loch, and
the so-called causeway is a continuation of this ridge as
it dips into the deep water ' (Ancient Scottish Lake-
dinb. 1882). This causeway, which was sup-
posed to run the whole length of the island, was said by
tradition to have been used in former days
of passing from the island. Tradition, too, associate
some weapons found in the loch in 1770 with the mur-
derers of Malcolm II., who, after committing the crime
in GLAMIS CASTLE, tried to cross Forfar Loch on the ice,
and were drowned. Besides these scraps of questionable
history, memorials of royal residence survive in the
designations of such localities as the King's Muir, the
Queen's Well, the Queen's Manor, the Palace Dykes, and
so on. An annual fte in honour of Queen Margaret,
held on the Inch, was long a vestige of the royal con-
nection with Forfar. The charter elevating the town
to the dignity of a royal burgh was granted bv David I.
(1124-53), and the records of the parliaments o"f Scotland
show that assemblies were held there by William the
Lyon, by Alexander II., and by Robert II. The town
was almost totally destroyed by accidental fire in 1244.
In 1291 King Edward I. of England was refused admis-
sion to the castle by Gilbert de Umfraville; but it was
occupied by him and his suite from the 3d till the 6th
of July 1296. In 1308, when 'stuflit all with Inglis-
men,' this castle was captured by Bruce and Philip, the
forester of Plater, who, making an escalade under cover
of night, slew all the garrison, and ' brek doun the
wall.' It was never rebuilt. In the Great Rebellion
Forfar adhered to the King, so, after the English had
taken Dundee, Colonel Ocky marched thence to Forf
with a considerable body of dragoons, and not only
liberated an imprisoned spy, but pillaged and harassed
the town. In 1665 a charter of confirmation of its
early privileges was granted by Charles II. in requital
of this plundering and of the protest of ex-Provost
Strang in 1647 against the proposal to hand over
Charles I. to the tender mercies of the English rebels.
In 1684 the market-cross was erected at the expense of
the Crown, and stood in its original position for a cen-
tury and a half, till removed as before noted. In con-
nection with Provost Strang, or rather with his posterity,
a curious story is told. Two of this family had settled
at Stockholm, where they prospered. About the end
of the 17th century they sent home a fine-toned bell for
the parish church steeple. When the gift arrived at
Dundee, the magistrates of that place claimed it on the
ground that it was too good for Forfar. A struggle
FOEFAE
took place, in the course of which the tongue of tho
bell, said to have been of silver, was wrenched out and
thrown into the river. After a time the Forfar folk got
possession of their property, but the Dundee magistrates
refused to let it be conveyed away unless the town of
Forfar bought all the ground it would pass over between
the quay and the boundary of Dundee. A large sum
had to be paid, and the road is known still as the Forfar
Loan. The townsfolk of Forfar turned out in holiday
costume to welcome the gift on its arrival. A new
tongue was not supplied for a century, and even now
the clapper in use is regarded as insufficient to bring
out the full tones of the bell. Dundee was not the only
town with which Forfar got at loggerheads. The sutors
of Forfar and tho weavers of Kirriemuir had a long-
standing feud, which often used to result in blows.
Drummond of Hawthornden relates that, when he
visited Forfar in 1648, he was refused shelter because
he was a poet and a royalist. He passed on to Kirrie-
nitiir, where they equally abhorred these two 'crimes;'
but, anxious to differ from the Forfarians, they made
him heartily welcome. In return he wrote a quatrain,
in which Kirriemuir was praised and Forfar satirised.
A body of William of Orange's forces, stationed at
Forfar in 1689, ate and destroyed all kinds of victual
to the value of 8000, forced horses, carts, and free
quarters to the extent of 2000 more, and left the tol-
booth and schoolhouse in a state of ruin. Another
reminiscence of the 'good old times' is centred in a
specimen of the 'branks' called the witches' bridle,
which, long preserved in the old steeple, is now in the
public library. It consists of a collar in four sections,
hinged so as to enclose the neck. Behind is a short
chain, and in front a prong, like the rowel of a spur,
projects inwards, and was fixed in the mouth to act as
a gag at the executions. The victims were led by the
chain to the Witches' Howe, a small hollow N of the
town, where the stake was erected. The bridle was
picked up from the ashes after the execution. Nine
women were burned at Forfar between 1650 and 1662;
and ' Johne Kinked, pricker of the witches in Trenent,'
being brought to Forfar, was made a freeman of the
burnh just ten days after that honour had been con-
ferred on a cadet of the noble family of Keith-Marisohal.
A highwayman hanged on Balmashanner Hill in 1785
was the last person executed in Scotland by sentence of a
sheriff. Patrick Abercrombie, physician and historian,
was born at Forfar in 1656: and John Jamieson, D.D.
(1759-1838), of ' Scottish Dictionary ' fame, was minister
of the Secession congregation from 1780 till 1797. Archi-
bald Douglas, son of the second Marquis of Douglas, was
in 1661 created Earl of Forfar, a title which devolved
on the Duke of Douglas at the death of the second Earl
from seventeen wounds received at Sheriffmuir (1715),
and with the Duke it expired (1761). One curious thing
in connection with Forfar is the fact that, down to 1593,
its market-day was Sunday.
Before considering the present condition of Forfar, it
is interesting to look at some details of its peculiarities
given in the Old Statistical Account. The minister of
the parish, writing there in 1793, tells that before 1745
there were not above seven tea-kettles and the same
number of watches and pairs of bellows in the burgh;
while in his time every house had a kettle and bellows,
and 'almost every menial must have his watch." In
the middle of the 18th century, a Forfarian who bought
a shilling's worth of butcher meat or an ounce of tea
would hide the fact from his neighbour as if he had
ommitted a crime. One ox, valued at forty shillings,
upplied the flesh market for a fortnight, and indeed a
carcase was seldom killed unless most of it were be-
poken. Each man built his house as he chose, and the
town was both irregular and dirty. The dirtiness of
the burgh was the cause of a murder on 9 May 1728.
Charles, sixth Earl of Strathmore, was returning from a
funeral entertainment with a party of gentlemen, when
Carnegie of Finhaven was jostled by Lyon of Brigton
into a kennel in Spout Street. He rose covered with
mud, and, making a thrust at Brigton, ran the Earl
FORFAR
through the body, for which he was tried, but acquitted
through the ability of his counsel, Robert Dundas of
On his progress to London in 1603, James VI., runs
the story, was entertained with great magnificence
by the mayor of one of the English burghs ; and
of the English courtiers hinted that such open-
handedness would be rare in Scotland. ' Fient
bit
-
everal good
West Port,
that,' said canny James, 'the Provost o' my burgh o'
Forfar, whilk is by no means the largest town in Scot-
land, keeps open house a' the year round, and aye the
mae that comes the welcomer.' The provost kept an
alehouse. It was in Forfar that a neighbour's cow drank
up the browst which a brewster's wile had set to the
door to cool. The alewife raised an action against her
neighbour, who was assoilzied, since, by immemorial
custom, nothing was ever charged for a standing drink
or stirrup-cup. And it was Forfar Loch that an Earl of
Strathmore proposed to drain, by tumbling a few hogs-
heads of whisky into it, and setting the ' drucken
writers of Forfar ' to drink it dry.
In 1526 Boece speaks of Forfar as 'having in time
past been a notable citie, though now it is brought to
little more than a countrie village, replenished with
simple cottages.' Down to the middle of the 18th century
its ' sinuous and ill-compacted streets consisted chiefly of
old thatched houses;' but the Forfar of to-day
comfortable and well-built town wit
public buildings. The High Street, with W
extends irregularly, from SW to NE, to a length of
about 1200 yards. Castle Street branches off to the
northward, and contains the sheriff court-houses, built
in 1869-71. They consist of a centre of two stories
with wings and attics, and comprise a principal court-
room 50 feet long, 33 broad, and 26 high; and a
smaller court-room 21 by 24 feet. The old county
buildings were near these courts, and were built about
1830 at a cost of nearly 5000. In 1869, after the open-
ing of the sheriff court-houses, they were condemned as
unsuited to their purposes, and a difficulty arose as to
what should be done with them. Ultimately they were
pulled down, and new county buildings, designed by Mr
Wai-drop erected in their stead. They cost 4000, and
include a county hall 65 by 35 feet, and other apart-
ments, one of them a strong room for records. In the
hall are portraits of the hero of Camperdown by Opie,
of Henry Dundas, Lord Melville, by Raeburn, and
others. The town-hall is close to the court-houses,
and affords accommodation to the free library, which,
opened on 7 Jan. 1871, contains 4450 volumes. The
county police station stands at the E corner of the
county buildings, with which it communicates on both
stories. In 1869 a hall (the Reid Hall) for public meet-
ings was erected by -Mr Peter Reid, of ' Forfar Rock '
celebrity, at a cost of 5000. Mr Reid is calculated to
have spent upwards of 10,000 on this, including struc-
tural improvements, alterations, &c. During his lii'c-
time he was to draw the revenues of the ball, keeping
it in good repair, and in Dec. 1894, in his ninety-second
year, he handed the hall over to the town. In Nov.
1870 a public meeting resolved to place a marble bust of
Mr Reid in the hall, and this resolution was carried into
effect, Mr J. Hutchison, R.S. A., being the sculptor. Mr
Reid has also presented a public park to the town. The
county prison was erected in 1843, legalised in 1852, and
closed by order of the Home Office in 1882.
The Priory church of Restennet served for the parish
church till 1591, when a church was built at the town.
The present parish church was built in 1791, and, as
altered in 1836, contains 1800 sittings. Its handsome
spire, 150 feet high, was added in 1814; and an organ
was introduced in 1881. St James's quoad sacra church,
seating 1100 people, was built in 1836 at a cost of
1200. Of two Free churches Forfar and East the
former is a fine new edifice of 1880-81, built in West
High Street at a cost of 5000, and containing 1000
sittings. The handsome United Presbyterian church,
with 500 sittings, was built in 1854; and the Congre-
gational chapel, with 460, was built in 1836 at a cost
FORFAR
of about 650. The Episcopal church of St John the
Evangelist, in East High Street, is in the Early English
style, and was erected in 1879-81, at a cost of 12,000,
from designs by Mr R. R. Anderson. It consists of a
nave (90 feet by 31), with a N aisle (74 x 18J feet) and
a chancel (42j x 21 j feet). The spire at the extremity
is incomplete, 40 feet only of the projected 163 haring
been constructed. The building is seated for 600.
The organ, by Conagher, stands in a chamber 24 by 12
feet, and the case, like the pulpit and choir stalls, is of
carved oak. This is the third Episcopal church in
Forfar since 1775. At the Revolution of 1688 the Epis-
copalians were not ejected from the parish church, but
remained till the beginning of the 18th century, and
communion was administered there by them at Christinas
and Easter till 1721. After that, service was unin-
terruptedly held in the old Priory church of Restennet,
and after 1745 in houses in secret till 1775, when a church
was built. This building still stands, but it was only
occupied by the Episcopal congregation till 1822, when
Dean Skinner built the church that was pulled down
in 1879 to make room for the present one. A Baptist
chapel in Manor Street is an Early Gothic edifice, built
in 1876 at a cost of 1700, and containing 400 sittings.
In 1-894 the following were the six schools under the
burgh school-board, with accommodation, average at-
tendance, and Government grant: Academy (260, 122,
146, 6s. 6d), East (423, 393, 343, 17s. 6d.), Forfar
(240, 234, 226, 19s.), North (400, 382, 334, 5s.),
Wellbraehead (350, 300, 262, 10s.), and West (607, 589,
515, 7s. 6d. ) Besides these there are two evening schools
and a ladies' seminary in Academy Street, and science and
art classes are managed by members of the School Board.
There are in the burgh an infirmary, a choral union,
fire engine station, Young Men's Christian Association,
the poorhouse, a mechanics' reading-room, building,
golf, angling, cricket, bowling, football, and other
societies and clubs, including two good templar lodges.
A fine cemetery, 11 acres in extent, to the southward
of the town, was opened in 1850, and contains a monu-
ment, erected in 1852 by subscription, to Sir Robert
Peel. The figure stands upon a large pedestal, and is
surmounted by a dome upborne on eight pillars. The
gas-works are managed by the corporation; and a first-
class supply of gravitation water was introduced into
the town in 1881 from the Den of Ogil.
As regards manufactures Forfar makes a small show
compared with other towns in the county. Coarse
linen and jute manufacture, tanning, bleaching, rope-
making, ironfounding, brewing, etc., are the leading in-
dustriesthe linen and jute works being of considerable
number and extent. In old days Forfar was famous for
the manufacture of wooden soled shoes or brogues, from
which arises the appellation ' the sutors of Forfar,' above
alluded to. There are three incorporated trades glovers,
shoemakers, and tailors, that of the shoemakers being
the most ancient.
The incorpora-
tion of weavers
was abolished by
an Act of Parlia-
ment for the im-
fthe
trade. For-
far has a post
office,with money
order, savings
bank, insurance,
and telegraph
departments,
branches of the
Bank of Scotland,
and of the Royal,
British Linen,
National, Union,
and Commercial
Banks, a National Security savings bank, insurance
agencies, several hotels, and two newspapers The For-
far Herald, Liberal, and the Review, Independent,
proveme
linen tra
FORFAE
(both on Friday). The burgh is governed by a provost,
3 bailies, a treasurer, and 10 councillors, who also
act as police commissioners. The regular courts are
the burgh or bailie courts, and the burgh police court.
Forfar unites with MONTKOSE, Arbroath, Brechin, and
Bervie to return a member to parliament, its parlia-
mentary constituency being 1711, and its municipal
2379 in 1896. The corporation revenue was 2771 in
1895. Annual value of real property (1866) 17,434,
(1876) 28,255, (1882) 34, 080, 15s. 3d., (1895) 38,558,
exclusive of railways. The Forfar and Brechin railway
was opened for passenger traffic in June, 1895. Pop. of
royal burgh (1881) 13,579, (1891) 12,769; of parliamen-
tary burgh (1841) 8362, (1851) 9311, (1861) 9258, (1871)
11,031, (1881) 12,817, (1891) 12,057, of whom 5291
were males and 6766 females.
The parish of Forfar, containing also Lunanhead,
Carseburn, and Kingsmuir hamlets, 14 mile NE, 14
NNE, and If SE of the town, is bounded N by Rescobie,
E by Rescobie and Dunnichen, S by Inverarity, SW by
Kinnettles, W by Kinnettles and Glamis, and NW by
Kirriemuir. Its utmost length, from N to S, is 4|
miles; its breadth, from E to W, varies between 2J and
4J miles; and its area is 8379J acres, of which 26j are
water. Locli Fithie (34 x 4 furl.), 2 miles ENE of the
town, is a pretty little sheet of water, with wooded
rising banks; Restennet Loch, near Lunanhead, was
drained many years ago for its marl. Streams there are
none of any consequence; but the drainage is partly
carried eastward to the Lunan, and partly westward to
Dean Water. The surface, all part of Strathmore or the
Howe of Angus, is flat to the N of the town, sinking
little below, and little exceeding, 200 feet above sea-
level, but rises southwards to 572 feet at Balmashanner
Hill and 761 near Lour. The rocks are Devonian,
lower or Forfarshire flagstones; and the soil is mainly
a fertile loam. There are traces of a ' Pictish camp ' at
Restennet, and of a ' Roman camp ' a little more than
4 mile NE of the town, the latter ' capable of holding
upwards of 26,000 men;' but Restennet Priory is the
chief antiquity. This is noticed separately, as also is
the only mansion, Lour House. The seat of a presby-
tery in the synod of Angus and Mearns, this parish is
ecclesiastically divided into Forfar proper and St James's
quoad sacra parish, the former a living worth 477.
Two landward public schools, Kingsmuir and Lunan-
head, with respective accommodation for 135 and 147
children, have an average attendance of 90 and 111,
and grants of 86, 10s. 6d. and 99. Valuation (1857)
7955, (1882) 12,346, 15s. lid., (1892) 9832, plus
3645 for railways. Pop. (1801) 5167, (1831) 7049,
(1861) 10,838, (1871) 12,585, (1881)14,470, (1891) 13,66.'),
of whom 3502 were in St James's and 10,163 in Forfar
ecclesiastical parish. Ord. Stir., sh. 57, 1868.
The presbytery of Forfar comprehends the quoad
cinha parishes of Forfar, Abcrlemno, Cortachy, Dun-
nichen, Glamis, Inverarity, Kinnettles, Kirriemuir,
Oathlaw, Rescobie, and Tannadice, the quoad sacra
parishes of Clova, Forfar St James, Kirrieimiir-South,
and Glenprosen. Pop. (1871) 27,694, (1881) 35 201
(1891) 27,353, of whom 8993 were communicants of the
Church of Scotland in 1895. The Free Church also has
a presbytery of Forfar, with 2 churches in Forfar, 2 in
Kirriemuir, and 4 in respectively Abcrleni no, Dunnichen,
Kinnettles, and Memus, which eight had together 2108
communicants in 1894.
Forfar and Arbroath Railway. See ARBUOATH AND
FORFAR RAILWAY.
Forfarshire, a large marit
nearly corresponding to the
occupies the south-east
sula of Scotland, having f,
Tay on the S, and the Ge
ie and agricultural county,
tncient district of ANGUS,
rner of the central penin-
its seaboard the Firth of
n Ocean on the E, and for
its inland boundaries, on the NE Kincardineshire, on
the N Aberdeenshire, and on the W Perthshire. Its
limits are, on the S, Dundee, 55 27'; on the N, Mount
Keen, 56 58' N latitude: and on the E, the Ness,
near Montrose, 2 26'; on the W, at Blacklunans, 3 24'
longitude W of Greenwich. Eleventh in point of size
38
FORFARSHIRE
of the counties of Scotland, it has an utmost length
from N to S of 36 miles, an utmost width from E to W
of 364 miles, and an area of 890 square miles or 569,850
acres, of which 6486 are foreshore and 3178 water. It
is divided into four well-marked natural divisions the
shore district, consisting chieily of sandy dunes and
links, 37 miles Ion", with a breadth of from 3 to 8 miles;
the range of the Sidlaw Hills, 22 miles long by 3 to 6
miles broad; Strathmore, the 'great valley,' otherwise
called the Howe of Angus, 32 miles by 4 to 6 miles
broad; and the hilly district or Braes of Angus, rising
into the Grampian range, and measuring 24 miles by
5 to 9 miles broad.
The Grampian district forms the north-western divi-
sion, and includes about two-fifths of the superficial
area. Like the rest of the range, the Grampian moun-
tains here run from SW to NE, forming the barrier
between the Highlands and the Lowlands of Scotland;
and exhibit ridge behind ridge, with many intervening
valleys cut out by streams and torrents, till they form,
at their water-line or highest ridge, the boundary line
of the county. The portions of them included in For-
farshire are called the Benchinnin Mountains; and,
viewed in the group, are far from possessing either the
grandeur of the alpine districts of the West, or the
picturesqueness and beauty of the highlands of the
South. From the higher summits of the Grampians a
brilliant view is obtained, not only of Forfarshire and
part of Perthshire, but of Fife, East Lothian, and the
The Strathmore district of Forfarshire is part of the
great valley of that name, and stretches from the western
boundary of the parish of Kettins, away north-eastward
through the whole county, to the lower part of the
North Esk. From its northern point south-westward
it lies along the foot of the Forfarshire Grampians, till
it forms the parish of Airlie; and it thenceforth, till
the termination of the parish of Kettins, shares the con-
tinuation of Strathmore with Perthshire. Its surface is
beautifully diversified by gentle eminences, fertile fields,
plantations, villages, and gentlemen's seats. Small por-
tions of it are covered with water during wet seasons,
and, in other respects, have perhaps not received due
attention from the cultivators of the soil.
The Sidlaw district of Forfarshire derives its distinc-
tive features from the Sidlaw Hills. These are a con-
tinuation or offshoot of a range which runs parallel
to Strathmore or the Grampians, from the Hill of Kin-
noull near Perth, to the NE extremity of Kincardine-
shire. Seen from Fifeshire, the Sidlaws appear to rise
at no great distance from the estuary of the Tay, and
shut out Irom view the scenery of Strathmore and the
lower Grampians. They culminate in Auchterhouse Hill
at an altitude of 1399 feet above the level of the sea; and
in some places are covered with stunted heath, while in
others they are cultivated to the top. The Sidlaw dis-
trict terminates at Red Head, a promontory on the
coast, in the parisli of Inverkeilor, between Arbroath
and Montrose. From some of the detached hills,
respectively on the north-western and the south-eastern
sides of the range, brilliant views are obtained, on the
one hand, ol the whole extent of Strathmore, and, on
the other, of the scenery along the Firth of Tay and the
German Ocean.
The maritime district of Forfarshire is, for a brief
way, in the parish of Inverkeilor, identified with the
Sidlaw district, but extends from the Tay and the
limits of Litf and Lundie on the S to near the mouth of
the North Esk on the N. In its southern part it is at
first of very considerable breadth; but it gradually
narrows as it becomes pent up between the Sidlaw Hills
and the ocean; and, overleaping the former, it thence
stretches northward parallel to the Howe of Angus.
This district is, with a few exceptions, fertile and
highly cultivated. Excepting a few rounded jutting
hills-some of which are designated by the Gaelic name
of Dun its surface slopes gently to the Firth of Tay on
the S, and the German Ocean on the E. At Broughty
Ferry, where the Firth of Tay is very much contracted,
FOEFAESHIEE
an extensive tract of links or sandy downs commences,
and thence sweeps along a great part of the parishes of
Monifieth and Barry. Two other sandy tracts of incon-
siderable breadth stretch along the coast respectively
between Panbride and Arbroath, and between the
embouchures of the South Esk and the North Esk. In
many places these downs evince, by extensive beds of
marine shells, at heights ranging from 20 to 40 feet,
that they were at one period covered with the sea. The
maritime district is adorned with towns and villages,
elegant villas and comfortable farm-steads, numerous
plantations, and, in general, ample results of successful
culture and busy enterprise.
The Tay, though it expands into an estuary 12 miles
before touching the county, and cannot, while it washes
its shores, be considered as a river, is greatly more
valuable to Forfarshire than all its interior waters.
Sandbanks in various places menace its navigation, but
are rendered nearly innocuous by means of lighthouses
and other appliances. From the mouth of the Tay to
near Westhaven, the coast on the German Ocean is
sandy ; and thence north-eastward to near Arbroath, it
cannot safely be approached on account of low, and, in
many cases, sunken rocks. At a distance of llj miles
SE of Arbroath, the BELL ROCK Lighthouse lifts its
line form above the bosom of the ocean. A mile north-
eastward of Arbroath the coast becomes bold and rocky,
breaking down in perpendicular precipices, and, in many
places, perforated at the base with long deep caverns,
whose floors are boisterously washed by the billows of
the sea. The Red Head, a rocky promontory, 267 feet
in almost sheer ascent, terminates this bold section of
the coast, as it does the inland range of the Sidlaws.
Lunan Bay now, with a small sweep inward, presents
for nearly 3 miles a fine sandy shore, and offers a safe
anchorage. The coast again becomes rocky and bold as
far as to the mouth of the South Esk ; and thence to
the extremity of the county, it is low and sandy.
At BROUGHTY FERRY there is a rocky promontory on
which stands Broughty Castle, and from this point to
the boundary of Perth on the W the coast-line is flat
and alluvial. Excepting a cantle cut out on the \V by
Perthshire, the county is nearly square, and lines inter-
secting the limit points named meet near Shielhill
Bridge in the parish of Tannadice, where
' The waters of Prosen, Esk, and Carity
Meet at the birken bush of Inverquharity.'
The surface of Forfarshire is much diversified. Along
the northern and western boundaries extends the Gram-
pian range, having Glas Maol (3502) as the highest
, with upwards of sixty peaks exceeding 2000 feet.
Sidlaw Hills, on the S of the great glen, form
point, with upwards of sixty peaks exceeding 2000 feet.
The Sidlaw Hills, on the S of the great glen
picturesque element in the scenery of the county.
These are verdant hills, with a maximum height of 1399
feet at Auehterhouse Hill, and run down gradually to
the eastward, where the range is cultivated to the top.
Principal summits in the Grampian range are Cairn na
Glasher (3484 feet), Cairn Bannoch (3314), Broad Cairn
(3268), Tolmount (3143), Driesh (3105), Mount Keen
(3077), Mayar (3043), Finally (2954), Braidcairn (2907),
Ben Tirran (2939), White Hill (2544), Cam Aighe (2824),
Bonstie Ley (2868), Monamenach (2649), Mount Bat-
tock (2555), Black Hill (2469), Hill of Cat (2435), Cairn
Inks (2483), East Cairn (2518), Mount Blair (2441),
Cock Cairn (2387), West Knock (2300), the Hill of
Wirren (2220), The Bulg (1986), Naked Tarn (1607),
and the White Caterthun (976). In the Sidlaw Hills,
the Gallowhill(1242 feet), Gash (1141), Keillor (1088),and
Hayston Hill (1034) are notable. Dundee Law, over-
looking the town, is 572 feet in height. In the Braes
of Angus the county presents much that is grand and
characteristic in hill scenery ; and in the southern parts
the finely-wooded and richly-cultivated landscape pre-
sents great beauty and attractiveness. The lochs of the
county, as well as its rivers, are insignificant in view of
the large district drained, the course of the streams
being necessarily short, as from the position of the
watershed the county receives no streams from other
districts, while it gives off some that increase in bulk
FOBFAESHIEE
before augmenting the Tay, which reckons as a Perth-
shire river. Two mountain burns, the Lee and the
Eunoch or Unich, unite in Lochlee parish, 1| mile
above the lake of that name, which, measuring 9 by 2J
furlongs, is ' a wild lake closed in by mountains. ' The
Lee, flowing from the loch, joins the Mark at Invermark,
forming the North ESK, a stream which, after a course
of 29 miles, falls into the German Ocean, and traces,
during the last 15 miles of its course, the boundary
between Forfar and Kincardine. Its principal affluent
in the county is West Water, rising in Lethnot parish,
and joining the Esk at Stracathro. The South Esk,
rising in Clova, has a course of 48f miles, and runs into
Montrose Basin. In its upper course it is a mountain
stream, but, after receiving its principal tributaries, it
runs due E through Strathmore as a quiet lowland
river. Parallel with its upper course is Glen Prosen,
whence the South Esk receives Prosen Water. The other
main affluents are the Carity, the Noran, the Lemno,
and the Pow. Further is the beautiful valley of Glen
Isla, where the Isla has its rise. One-third of the total
course of this stream is in Perthshire, where it joins the
Tay, after receiving the waters of many small streams.
On the Isla is a waterfall of 80 feet, the ' Reeky Linn,'
so called from the cloud of spray constantly thrown up ;
and further down are the Slugs of Auchrannie, a dark
channel where the river runs between steep rocks. One
affluent of the Isla, the Dean, issues from FORFAR Loch ;
and one of the Dean's tributaries, the Arity, presents the
peculiarity of rising within 7 miles of the mouth of the
Tay, and running a course of 70 miles before it falls
into the German Ocean. The smaller streams flowing
direct to the sea embrace the Lunan, running into the
bay of that name, the Brothock, the Elliot, the Dighty,
rising in the Lochs of Lundie and receiving the Fithie, all
of which reach the ocean between Arbroath and Broughty
Ferry. The lochs and streams of Forfarshire afford excel-
lent sport for the angler. The North Esk yields salmon,
sea-trout, and common trout, the net fishings being very
valuable, over 2000 salmon having been taken on the first
day of the season below the bridge of Marykirk. The
South Esk and its tributaries yield trout, while salmon
(strictly preserved) are also plentiful from Brechin
downwards. The Isla, both in its Forfarshire and its
Perthshi
ctions,
high character from Mr
Watson Lyall in his Sportsman's Guide; salmon pene-
trate to the Slugs of Auchrannie, and up to this point
there are heavy pike and trout of very fine quality.
Above the Reekie Linn the stream yields first-rate sport,
Loch Wharral, in the same locality, is abundant in good
small trout. Loch Brandy, situated amidst wild and
beautiful scenery, 2070 feet above sea-level, is uncertai
but frequently gives good sport. Loch Esk, in Clo
arge but shy trout. Dun's Dish, an artifi
loch near Bridge of Dun, and private property, yields
affords large but sh
rtificial
Forfar Loch is famous for large pike and perch,
the former running to 30 Ibs. on occasion. Loch Lee,
the largest in the county, yields trout of two kinds and
char in abundance. The Lochs of Lundie, in the parish
of Lundie, belong to Lord Caniperdown, and yield perch
and pike. The reservoirs of Monikie have been stocked
with Loch Lcven and other trout, and yield fair sport.
Loch Rescobie yields perch, pike, and eels, and is open
to the public. On the north-east coast in July and
August large numbers of herring are taken by the fisher-
men engaged, besides haddock, cod, ling, soles, halibut,
turbot, etc. The county contains several notable deer
forests, including those of Clova, Caanlochan, Bachna-
gairn, and Invermark. In the latter the Mark stream
flows, and at the 'Queen's Well,' formerly the While
Well, and now named in commemoration of a visit of
the Queen and Prince Consort in 1861, the Earl of
Dalhousie erected a handsome monument. It bears
an inscription in imitation of that in Marmion
' Rest, weary traveller, on this lonely green.
And drink and pray for Scotland's Queen.'
The Queen describes the scene as very grand and wild,
the 'Ladder Burn,' running down a steep and winding
path, as 'very fine and very striking.'
FOEFAIISHIEE
Geoloyy. r n\c county of Forfar is divided into two
distinct geological arcas'by a line drawn from Lintratlien
Loch NE by Cortachy Castle to near Edzell. The tract
lying to the W of this line is occupied by metamorphosed
Silurian strata ; while to the E, the Old Red Sandstone
formation stretches across Strathmore and the chain of
the Sidlaws to the sea coast.
The Silurian rocks occurring along the margin of the
Old Red Sandstone area are comparatively unaltered,
consisting mainly of grey and green clay slates with
occasional pebbly grits. These beds are inclined to the
NW, but as we ascend the valleys of the Ma, the
Prosen, and South Esk, they are thrown into a great
synclinal fold, and they re-appear in a highly altered
form with a SE dip. In their metamorphosed condition
they consist of mica schists and gneiss, with bands of
pebbly quartzite which are well displayed on the Braes
of Angus. Beyond the area occupied by these stratified
rocks, a great mass of granite stretches from Cairn Ban-
noch to Mount Battock along the confines of Forfarshire
and Aberdeenshire.
The Old Red Sandstone of Forfarshire has long been
celebrated for the fishes and eurypterids found in the
shales and flagstones. The recent discovery of myriapods
In the same strata has tended to increase the interest in
the history of this formation as developed in the county.
The researches of Lyell, Woodward, Lankester, Powrie,
Page, Mitchell, and others, have amply revealed the
nature of the organisms which flourished during that
ancient period. The fossils occur on two distinct
horizons, the position of which has now been accurately
defined. But apart from the interesting series of organic
remains, this formation claims attention on account of
its remarkable development in Forfarshire and Kincar-
lineshire. The total thickness of the Lower Old Red
Sandstone in these two counties cannot be less than
20,000 feet, and yet neither the top nor the base of the
series is visible. This vast series was deposited on the
bed of an inland sheet of water to which the name of
Lake Caledonia has been applied by Sir Archd. Geikie.
The northern margin of that ancient lake was defined
by the Grampian chain, and even during the deposition
of the highest members of the series, a portion of that
tableland must have remained above the water. One of
the most interesting phases of that period was the dis-
play of volcanic activity which gave rise to great sheets
of lavas and ashes, the igneous materials being regularly
interbeddcd with the sedimentary strata. The volcanic
series attains its ^ivnti'st development in Perthshire, as
will be shown in the description of the geology of that
county.
The geological structure of the area occupied by the
Lower Old Red Sandstone of Forfarshire is comparatively
simple. Two great flexures, which can be traced for
into Perthshire on the one side, and into KinfardiiM-
shire on the other, cross the county in a SW and NE
direction. In Strathmore, the strata, form a synclinal
trough, the axis of which extends from the mouth of
the burn of Alyth to Stracnthro, and in the centre of
this Imsin the highi'st beds in the county are exposed.
Again the chain of the Sidlaws coincides with a great
anticlinal fold which brings to the surface the oldest
members of this formation in the county. It ought to
be remembered, however, that in the Lower Old Red
Sandstone of Perthshire we find strata which occupy a
higher horizon. A line drawn from the neighbourhood
of Longlbrgan NE to Montrose, marks the crest of the
arch referred to, from which the strata dip in opposite
directions at angles varying from 10 to 15 . The oldest
beds, consisting of brown and grey sandstones, flag-
stones, and shales, are exposed along the crest of the
anticline between Lougtorgan and Leysmills E of
Friockheim. The well-known Arbroath paving stones
belong to this horizon, but perhaps the most con-
spicuous member of this sub-division is a thin band of
shale from 1 to 3 feet thick forming the lower fish bed.
It can be traced along the NW side of the axial fold
from Balruddery Den to Tealing, and on the SE side
from Duntrune by Carmyllie to Leysmills. At all these
FORFARsmnn
localities it has yielded fish remains, huge eurypterids,
myriapods, and fragments of land plants. The strata
just described are succeeded on both sides of the arch
by the members of the volcanic series consisting of thick
sheets of diabase-porphyrite which are interbedded with
sandstones, flags, and thin bands of conglomerate. These
ancient lavas are the northern prolongations of the vol-
canic series of the Ochils. Though they form pro-
minent ridges in the Sidlaws, their thickness is insig-
nificant when compared with their development in the
former range.
The volcanic series is conformably overlaid along the
NW side of the arch by sandstones and conglomerates
containing an important band of shales and a bed of
cornstone. This band of shales which constitutes the
Upper or Turin fish bed has been traced from Turin
Hill NE by Farnell to Canterland in Kincardineshire
a distance of 14 miles. Similar organic remains to those
already described have been obtained from this bed at
these three localities. The members of this subdivision
are inclined to the NW at angles varying from 10 to
15, and this dip continues till the centre of the basin
is reached near Tannadice, where the highest beds in
the county are exposed, consisting of red sandy marls.
Though the latter resemble some of the strata belonging
to the Upper Old Red Sandstone, they are in reality
only a conformable portion of the lower division. At
Coranside, N of Tannadice, they occupy a strip of ground
about 2 miles broad, but when "followed to the NE, the
basin gradually widens till at the county boundary the
sandy marls cover an area about 3 miles in breadth.
They 'tail off,' however, near Tannadice, and the under-
lying sandstones and conglomerates occupy the centre
of the syncline till we pass westwards to Alyth, where
the sandy marls re-appear and are well developed in the
Tay at Stanley.
Along the northern margin of the trough the strata
rise rapidly to the surface. They are inclined at high
angles owing to the great fault which runs along the
flanks of the Grampians from Stonehaven to the Firth
of Clyde. Throughout a great part of its course this
dislocation throws the Old Red Sandstone against the
crystalline rocks of the Highlands, but between Cor-
tachy in Forfarshire and Crieff in Perthshire, it traverses
the Old Red Sandstone area. In the latter case it
brings different members of this formation against each
other. At various localities between Cortachy and the
county boundary near Edzell, the position of the fault
is admirably defined. The coarse conglomerates and
sandstones underlying the red sandy marls are tilted
against the Silurian clay slates at angles varying from
60 to 80. The same high angle is observable on the
E side of the dislocation where it traverses the Old Red
Sandstone W of Cortachy, particularly in the river Isla
at Airlie Castle. On the W side of the fault between
Cortachy and the Isla and onwards to the Tay the vol-
canic series reappears dipping to the SE at comparatively
low angles. The members of this series rest unconfor-
mably on the Silurian rocks, but differ considerably in
character from their representatives in the Sidlaws and
the Ochils. Instead of great sheets of porphyrite and
tuffs we have massive trappean conglomerates with thin
beds of lava. This difference is readily accounted for
by their proximity to the margin of the ancient lake.
Even the strata, which immediately underlie the red
sandy marls W of Tannadice and Stracathro, are more
markedly conglomeratic than the beds occupying the
same horizon on the E side of the trough.
The following list comprises the fossils obtained from
the two fish beds of Forfarshire : (Fishes), Acanthodes
Mitchelli, Diplacanthus gracilis, Euthacanthwi M'Nicoli,
E. gracilis, E. elegans, E. grandis, E. curtut, Paremis
incurvus, P.falcatus, Climatiusnticulatus, C. uncinatus,
C. smtiger, Cephalopterus Pagei, Pteraspw Mitchtlli,
Eucephalaspis Lyellii, E. Pmvrei, E. Pagei, E. asper,
Scaphaspis Loydii. ( Eurypterids), Pterygotus Anglieus,
P. minor, StyUnurus Powrei, S. Scoticus, S. eiisiformis,
Eurypterus Brewsteri, E. pygmaeus. (Myriapods),
Kampecaris Forfarensis, Archidesmus M'Nwoli. Th
occurrence of myriapods in these beds has only recently
been proved. The genus Kampecaris or grub shrimp,
which was discovered by the late Dr Page in the For-
farshire flagstones, and which could not be accurately
described owing to the imperfect preservation of the
fossils, was regarded by him as probably a small
phyllopod or the larval form of an isopod crustacean.
From specimens recently obtained, Mr B. N. Peach has
pointed out that Kampccaris comprises two genera of
m all other
forms
having
segments free, and possessing only one pair
of walking limbs. The.
myriapods which differ fro
their body _ . .
are the oldest k
breathers, and must have flourished when Upper Siluria
forms were still in existence.
To the N of Dundee the axial beds are traversed by a
series of intrusive dolerites which have altered the
strata in immediate contact with them. Dundee Law-
is probably the site of an old ' neck ' from which some
of the contemporaneous volcanic rocks were probably
discharged.
The only patch of Upper Old Red Sandstone in the
county occurs on the shore about 1 mile N of Arbroath.
The strata cover about J mile of the coast-line at
Oardingheugh Bay, and on the S side of the bay they
rest unconformably on the members of the lower divi-
sion, while to the K they are brought into conjunction
with each other by a fault. They consist of soft honey-
combed red sandstones and breccias which as yet have
proved unfossiliferous.
During the glacial period the ice sheet moved down
the glens of the Isla, the Prosen, and South Esk, cross-
ing Strathmore and surmounting the Sidlaws in its
march towards the sea. The general trend of the ice-
How was SE though its course was considerably deflected
by the Sidlaws. In order to override this barrier the
ice sheet must at least have been upwards of 1500 feet
thick. The boulder clay which accumulated underneath
the ice is well developed throughout the county. To
the E of the Old Red Sandstone boundary, boulders
of various metamorphic rocks from the Grampians are
associated with Old Red conglomerates, sandstones,
flagstones, and volcanic rocks in this deposit. This
feature is observable not only in the sections throughout
Strathmore, but even on the SE slopes of the Sidlaws.
The latter fact clearly indicates that the moraine profonde
must have been transported across the chain and de-
posited in the lee of the hills. But these foreign blocks
are likewise met with, perched on the slopes and tops
of various eminences in the Sidlaws, as for instance on
the hills between Lunnelly Den and Lundie at a height
of 1000 feet, and on the summit of Craigowl at a height
of 1500 feet. The widespread sheets of clay, sand, and
gravel, and the long ridges of the same materials in
Strathmore were probably formed by the vast torrents of
water caused by the melting of the retreating glaciers.
As the glaciers shrunk back into the glens they de-
posited moraines of which the great transverse barrier
at Glenairn in the valley of South Esk is a remarkable
example. An interesting description of this great ter-
minal moraine has been given by Sir Charles Lyell.
When seen from the S side it resembles an immense
rampart about 200 feet high athwart the valley. Its
breadth from N to S is about J mile, and on the E
side it has been denuded by the Esk for a space of 300
yards. The lower portion of this rampart, from 50 to
80 feet thick, consists of unstratified mud charged with
boulders, while the upper portion, from 50 to 100 feet
thick, is composed of finely stratified materials. The
alluvial flat above the barrier represents the site of an
ancient loch which was eventually drained by the water
cutting a channel through the morainic deposits. The
100, 50, and 25 feet raised beaches are represented at
various points on the coast. The lowest of them may
be traced continuously from Broughty Ferry to Ar-
broath, swelling out into a broad plain to the S of
Barry and Carnoustie, where it is covered in great part
by sand dunes. The stratified sands and gravels com-
posing this terrace contain shells identical with those
now living.
FORFAESHIRE
The foils of Forfarshire may be classified into primary
and secondary, or those formed by disintegration of
native rocks, and those deposited irom a distance by
running water ; and, in a general view, they are mostly
of a red or reddish colour, frequently inclining to
brown, dark brown, or black. The primary soils, on
the uplands of the Grampian district, are generally
moorish and thin, resting on whitish retentive clay,
and frequently perforated by rocks. In other districts
with gravelly bottoms the soil is generally thin, mossy,
and encumbered with loose stones ; while those districts
with sandstone bottoms are chiefly of a tenacious clay,
very unfertile, yet capable of being so worked as to
produce excellent wheat. On clayey or tilly bottoms
the soil is a strong clay, redder and decidedly better
than those named, while those parts with trap rock
below are generally friable and very fertile clays; but
often on the northern declivity, and among the hol-
lows of the Sidlaw Hills, too shallow to admit the
plough. The secondary soils, in the glens of the
Grampian district, are generally so sandy as to be loose
and friable, or so strong as to be practically unmanage-
able. In the other districts these soils are often so
intermixed with the primary soils that they can hardly
be distinguished, yet occurring distinctively along the
banks of streams, or in old beds of lakes and river-expan-
sions, and frequently a considerable way up the slopes
adjacent to these. In the Strathmore district, the low
tracts range in character from sand, through different
kinds of gravel, to trap debris, vegetable mould, and
carse clay, and are comparatively unfertile. In hollows
these soils have been saturated with moisture, and con-
verted into fens or mosses. Around Montrose Basin are
patches of a carse clay, similar to that of the carses
of Cowrie and Falkirk. In the whole of Scotland the
percentage of cultivated area is about 24*7; in Forfar-
shire it is 4'6, a percentage higher than that of twenty-
two, and lower than that of ten, other Scottish counties.
Less than one twenty-third of the whole of Scotland is
under woods; in Forfarshire the proportion is more than
one-seventeenth, viz. , 32, 739 acres. The finest of its trees
are noticed under Kinnaird, Gray, and Panmure.
Agriculture continued long in Forfarshire to be as
inert or rude as in most other parts of Scotland, but it
shared early in the activity of the new agricultural era,
and acquired vigour from the efforts of Dempster of
Dunnichen and other extensive landowners, and from
the Lunan, the Strathmore, the Angus and Mearns, and
Angus and Perthshire, and the Eastern Forfarshire
Agricultural Associations. For many years prior to
1872, it exhibited an energy, a skill, and a success
little inferior to those of the Lothians. As indicating
the progress of agriculture in Forfarshire in recent times,
the following interesting summary is quoted from Mr
James llacdonald's prize paper on Forfar and Kincar-
dine, published in the Transactions of the Highland and
Agricultural Society, fourth series, vol. xiii., 1881 :
' From the Rev. Mr Rodger's report on Forfarshire,
drawn up in 1794, it appears that wheat was then culti-
vated in every parish in the lower part of the county ;
that Angus oats, still famous, had thus a wide reputa-
tion ; that some grasses were used on almost every farm ;
that turnips were freely grown ; and that potatoes were
cultivated with great success, the yield in some instances
being as high as from 50 to 60 bolls of 16 stones per
acre. The number of cattle was estimated at 36,499
a small breed, ranging in weight from 16 to 20 stones
avoirdupois, occupying the higher ground, and a larger
breed, weighing from 40 to 70 stones, the lower parts.
Sheep numbered 53,970, and were mostly of the black-
faced, a few being of the ancient dun or white-faced
kind, and others of mixed breeding. On some of the
better managed farms, and around proprietors' residences,
there was a good deal of enclosed land, mostly under
pasture. Farm implements were still primitive, but
improvements were fast being introduced. The clumsy
old Scotch plough, modernised by metal boards, was
still in use, but improved ploughs, chiefly of Small's
make, were speedily superseding it. It was not un-
FORFARSHIRE
see four horses attached to a plough; and
oxen were employed on many farms. Ploughmen's
wages without board averaged about Is. 3d. per day.
There was then a large extent of wood in the county,
and early in the present century the area was greatly
increased by Lord Airlie, Sir James Carnegie, the Strath-
more family, and others. The Rev. Mr Headrick states
the number and rental of the farms in 1813 as follows
viz., under 20 of annual value, 1574 farms; 20 and
under 50, 565; 50 and under 100, 682; 100 and
under 300, 315; above 300, 86; total, 3222.
' The spirit of improvement aroused in the last cen-
tury has never been allowed to lie dormant. True,
during the last 25 years a smaller extent of land has
been reclaimed than during either the last 25 years of
the 18th century or the first 25 of the present, but that
has not been due to any flagging in the spirit of im-
provement, but simply to the fact that only a limited
area of suitable land remained for the proprietors and
tenants of the past 25 years to bring under cultivation.
There lias been less done lately simply because there has
been less to do. No reliable data exist upon which to
estimate the extent of land reclaimed during the first
half of the present century. The Rev. Mr Headrick
estimated the arable land in Forfarshire in 1813 at
340,643 acres, but it is clear that that far exceeded the
actual extent; for the area at present under all kinds
of crops bere, fallow, and grass falls short of it by
nearly 90,000 acres.
' Confining ourselves to the last 25 years, we find that
there has been a substantial increase in the extent of
arable land. The following figures afford a pretty correct
indication: arable area in 1854, 219,721 acres; in 1870,
238,009; in 1880, 253,373. The percentage of the
arable area in Forfarshire under cultivation in 1870 was
41'8, now it is 44'5. This increase, equal to 1246 acres
a year, must be regarded as highly creditable, especially
when it is considered that, as previously stated, agricul-
tural improvement had been carried to a great length
long before the period to which the above figures refer,
so far, indeed, as to leave comparatively little to be
done. The main portion of the new land lies in the
Braes of Angus along the foot of the Grampians, but
there is also a fair proportion on the Sidlaw range.
'The reclamation of land, however, has not consti-
tuted the whole of the agricultural improvements in the
county during the last 25 years. Indeed, it is doubtful
if it has not in outlay been far exceeded by the improve-
ment in farm buildings, draining, fencing, roadmaking,
and other accessories which tend to develop the resources
of the soil. There has been a great deal done in the
improvement of farm buildings, and these are now, on
the whole, fully abreast of the times. In several parts
of Forfarshire re-draining might be carried out with
advantage; but still, since 1854, a great improvement
has been effected in the condition of the land in this
respect. In the wheat and potato districts there is yet
a large stretch of open land, but in the parts where the
pasturing of live-stock holds a prominent place in the
economy of the farm, a great extent of fencing, mostly
wire and stone dykes, has been erected within the last
twenty-five or thirty years. In service or farm roads,
too, as well as in the county roads, there has been
considerable improvement, while not a little has been
done in the way of straightening watercourses, squar-
ing fields, draining small pieces of lake or swamp,
clearing the land of stones, and in other small but
useful works.'
The areas under various crops are given in the follow-
ing table:-
GRAIN CROPS ACRES.
25,222
26.416
111. IT!)
FORFARSHIRE
GRASS, ROOT CROPS, &c. ACRES.
Year.
Hay, Grass,
and Perma-
Turnips.
Potatoes.
1854
1870,
77.349
73,872
32.198
32.881
12,529
e
lS9i;
1896,
115,676
116,470
33,769
34)294
$6
12,341
45,8' 'o
51,864
53,245
kingdo
of 6 co
The polled Angus breed of cattle lias a history of
peculiar interest, and the herds existing in the county
are valuable and important. Mr Macdonald in hia
report on the agriculture of the county, says that in the
18th century the excellent beef-producing qualities of the
herd had been discovered, and that several polled herds
were formed. The credit of being the first to commence
the systematic improvement of the breed belongs to Mr
Hugh Watson, Keillor, an intimate friend of Sir Walter
Scott, and associated with Booth, Wetherell, and other
noted improvers of the cattle breeds of the kin
His herd was founded in 1808, and consisted
and a bull left him by his father, and of 10 of the best
heifers and the best bull he could find at Trinity Muir
Fair. Although no complete record exists of Mr Wat-
son's system, his theory was to ' put the best to the best
regardless of affinity or blood.' His herd was dispersed
in 1860. The entrance of rinderpest dealt a. heavy blow
to the cultivation of breeding herds, but there has been
a revival, and the county contains several well-known
herds, including that at Mains of Kelly, founded in
1810. The breeding of shorthorns was long carried on
by Mr Lyall at Kincraig, near Brechin, and afterwards
at Old Montrose, but this herd, nearly extinguished by
rinderpest in 1865, was finally dispersed in 1874.
The breed of black cattle, previous to the introduction
of turnips and sown grasses, was small, and the cattle
were yoked in the plough in teams. The breed still re-
mains smaller in the remote than in the more cultivated
districts, but, as stated by Mr Macdonald, it has been
improved throughout most of the county by crossings
and importations, so as to correspond in progress with
the progress in the arts of tillage. The distinction be-
tween the best feeding and the best milking breed, so
essential to improvement in matters of the dairy, is
much less maintained or observed than in Ayrshire and
other dairy districts. The original breed of sheep was
the small white-faced sheep, believed to have been the
aboriginal breed of Britain ; but in the early part of
the 19th century, it was almost wholly superseded by
the black-faced sheep, brought principally from Peebles-
shire. Goats were at one time kept in the mountainous
districts, but on account of the injury they did to plan-
tations they were extirpated in the latter part of the
18th century.
The manufacture of coarse fabrics from flax, jute, and
hemp, is carried on to a vast extent in Forfarshire, and
comprises considerably more than half of the entire
linen trade of Scotland. The spinning of yarn in large
" the working of canvas, broad sheetings,
nills,
nd other heavy fabrics in factories, are
ted on a vast scale in the large towns ; and the
weaving of osnaburgs, dowlas, and common sheetings
employs an enormous number of handlooms in the
smaller towns and villages. Besides the numerous
linen factories in the larger towns of the county, the
FOEFARSHIRE
spinning, weaving, and bleaching of linen are carried
on in various other quarters, but chiefly for manufac-
turers in these towns. Manufactures of leather, gloves,
soap, candles, hand cards, machinery, confectionery,
and other articles also are carried on in considerable
magnitude, but only or chiefly in the large towns, prin-
cipally Dundee, Arbroath, and Montrose, and are noticed
in our articles on these places. The railways of the
county embrace the Dundee and Perth, which runs a
lew miles along the coast to Dundee; the Dundee and
Arbroath; the Arbroath and .Montrose, along the coast to
Montrose; the Montrose and Berrie, going along the
coast into Kincardineshire; the Tay Bridge connections
at Dundee; and the connections and branches to Forfar,
Brechin, Kirriemuir, etc. (See CALEDONIAN RAILWAY
and NORTH BRITISH RAILWAY.)
Forfarshire, with a constituency of 12 154 in 1890,
returns one member to parliament; Dundee returns
two members; and Montrose, Arbroath, Brechin, and
Forfar, forming with Bcrvie the Montrose Burghs, re-
turn one. Other towns are Kirriemuir, lirou^hty
Ferry, and Carnoustie; and the principal villains are
AuchmithiR, Harnhill, Claverhouse, Downfield, Edzell,
Ferrydcn, Friookheim, tllamis, Hillside, Letham, Moni-
tieth, Newtyle, and Northmuir. Mansions, all noticed
separately, are Airlie Castle, Cortachy Castle, Ethie
Castle, <;i;ums Castle, Kinnaird Castle, Brechin Castle,
Auldbar Castle, Panmure House, Invermark Lodge,
Caraldston Castle, Rossie, Duntrune, Ochterlony, Hos-
italfield, Stracathro, Bandirran, Lindertis, Linlathen,
Invergowrie, Baldowrie, etc. A great pro
pitalfield,
Baldovan,
portion of the lauded property of the county at the
beginning of the 18th century was held by the Lyons,
the Maules, the Douglases, the Ogilvies, the Carnegies,
and a few other ancient families; but much of the large
estates, after the introduction of manufactures and trade,
underwent subdivision, and passed into other hands.
Not one-third of 40 barons recorded by Edward in 1676
as proprietors in the county are now represented by their
descendants, and a portion of even the few ancient
families who continue to be proprietors are now non-
resident. So rapidly has landed property in many
parishes passed from hand to hand, that the average
term of possession by one family does not exceed 40 years.
The county is governed by a lord-lieutenant, a vice-
lieutenant, 28 deputy-lieutenants, and 231 justices of
the peace. It forms a sheriil'dom, with resident sheriffs-
substitute at Dundee, and Forfar and Arbroath, courts
being held at Dundee on Wednesday and Friday, at
Forfar on Thursday, and at Arbroath on Wednesday
throughout the session. A sheriff small-debt court is
also held at Forfar on Thursday, at Dundee on Tuesday,
and at Arbroath on Wednesday. Small debt courts are
held at Montrose on the third Friday, at Brechin on the
third Tuesday, and at Kirriemuir on the third Monday
during session. The County Council is composed of 50
members, for as many electoral divisions, and 4 others
(including the lord-lieutenant) in virtue of section 109
of the Act The elected members comprise representa-
tives from the following four districts: Dundee district,
with 13 representatives; Forfar district, 14; Bwhin dis-
trict, 12; Arbroath district, 11. The Council is divided
into the following committees: Standing Joint Com-
mittee (composed of county councillors and commis-
sioners of supply), committees for each of the above four
districts (composed of county councillors and represen-
tatives of the parochial board), Executive Committee of
Local Authority (including 8 non-councillors), Finance
Committee, Public Measures and Parliamentary Bills
Committee, Justice of Peace Committee, Valuation
Committee, County Road Board, Property Committee.
and Dundee Asylum Board. There is a burgh police
force in Arbroath (18 men), Brechin (8), Broughty Ferry
(9), Dundee (180), Forfar (9), and Montrose (12); the
remaining police in the county comprise 47 men, under
a chief constable, whose yearly pay is 308. The num-
ber of registered poor in the year ending 26 Sept. 1894
was 4062; of their dependants, 1664. The expenditure
was 70,023. The number of pauper lunatics was 941,
their cost of maintenance being 24. 564. The percentage
of illegitimate births was 11'6 in 1871, 9'9 in 1880 9'2
in 1892, and 8'9 in 1894.
The Boundary Commissioners in 1891 effected a con-
siderable readjustment of the boundaries between For-
farshire and Perthshire. The Foffarty, Broughty Castle,
and Balbeuchly detached parts of the Perthshire parish
of Caputh of 283, J, and 285 acres respectively
were transferred to Forfarshire, to the parishes of Kin-
nettles, Monifieth, and Auchterhouse respectively. The
parish of Fowlis-Easter, which was wholly in Perthshire,
but for ecclesiastical and educational purposes was joined
to the Forfarshire parish of Lundie, has been altogether
transferred to the county of Forfar; and Liff, Benvie,
and Invergowrie parish, partly in both counties, was
also placed wholly in Forfarshire. Alyth and Coupar-
Angus parishes, however, which were likewise partly in
botli counties, have been placed wholly in Perthshire;
and the Bandirran detached portion of the Forfarshire
parish of Kettins (containing 335 acres) was also trans-
ferred to Perthshire (to the parish of Collace). No change
has been made on the boundary between the counties of
Forfar and Kincardine, the Kincardineshire part of the
Forfarshire parish of Edzell having been transferred to
the Kincardineshire parish of Fettercairn Edzell thus
being restricted to the Forfarshire portion. There has,
however, been considerable readjustment of the bound-
aries of the interior parishes of Forfarshire, for which
see the separate articles. The registration county, divided
into 54 districts, had 280,098 inhabitants in 1891.
Although eleventh in size of the thirty-three Scotch
counties, Forfar ranks as eighth in respect of rental roll,
its valuation, exclusive of railways and burghs, being
(1856) 370,519, (1866) 462,138, (1876) 554 407
(1886) 522,952, (1896) 507,419, ^s6'3,350 for rail-
ways, and 219,605 for the five parliamentary burghs.
Total (1896), 790,374. In point of population it stands
fourth, Aberdeen, Edinburgh, and Lanark shires alone
surpassing it. Pop. (1801) 99,053, (1861) 204,425, (1891)
277,735, of whom 125,414 were males and 152,321
females. In 1891 the number of persons to each square
mile was 31 7.
The county is divided into 55 civil parishes. There
are 31 quoad sacra parishes, and these with the civil go
to make up the presbyteries of Forfar, Brechin, and
Arbroath, and partly to form those of Dundee and Mei"le
all of them included in the synod of Angus and Mearns.
The Free Church has similar divisions, with 66 charges
within Forlarshire; and the United Presbyterian Church,
in its presbyteries of Arbroath and Dundee, has 33 For-
farshire charges. The Scottish Episcopal Church has
18 churches; the Roman Catholic, 9; and other places
of worship are 1 English Episcopal, 6 Evangelical
Union, 9 Congregational, 4 Wesleyan, 8 Baptist, 1
1 'nil uiun, and 5 United Original Seccders. In the year
ending Sept. 1894 there were 208 schools (174 public)
which, with accommodation for 53,687 children, had
49,418 on the rolls, and an average attendance of 40,296.
Their staff consisted of 631 certificated, 171 assistant,
and 241 pupil teachers.
The territory now constituting Forfarshire belonged
to the Caledonian tribe of the Vernicomes. It formed,
till the time of Kenneth II., a part of Southern Pic-
tavia; and from 935 and earlier to 1242 was included
in the old Celtic mormaership or earldom of Angus.
Its civil history possesses hardly a distinctive feature;
and, excepting a few facts which properly belong to
the history of its principal towns, Brechin, Arbroath,
Dundee, Forfar, and Montrose, and to its castles, as
Finhaven, Edzell, and Airlie, it is blended in the
general history of the counties N of the Forth. The
chief immigrant barons, at the period of the Anglo-
Saxon colonization, whose descendants continued to
figure most conspicuously in the county, were the
Lyons, the Maules, and the Carnegies. Sir John
Lyon, a gentleman of Norman extraction, having mar-
ried a daughter of King Robert II., obtained, among
other grants, the castle and lands of Glamis, and was
the founder of the noble family of Barons Glamis,
FORFARSHIRE RAILWAY
Tannadice, Sidlaw, and Strathdighty, and Earls of
Strathmore. Guarin do Maule accompanied William
the Conqueror from Normandy to England; Robert de
Maule, a son of Guarin, followed Earl David, afterwards
King David, into Scotland; Roger, the second son of
that Robert, married the heiress of William de Valoniis,
Lord of Panmure and chamberlain of Scotland in the
time of Alexander II. ; and from them sprang the
Maules, afterwards Earls of Panmure, and the Fox-
Maule-Ramsays, now Barons Panmure and Earls of Dal-
housie. The Carnegies ramified into several branches,
two of which became respectively Earls of Southesk and
Earls of Northesk.
Remains of vitrified forts are found on Finhaven Hill
in Oathlaw parish, on Drumsturdy Moor in Honifieth
parish, and on Dundee Law. Ancient hill forts are
traceable on White Caterthun and Brown Caterthun
in Henmuir parish, at Denoon Law, 2J miles SW of
Glamis, and on Dunnichen Hill, Dumbarrow Hill, Car-
buddo Hill, Lower Hill, and several other eminences.
In many instances these forts are indicated only by heaps
of loose stones. Cairns and ancient standing stones
are in various places, particularly in Aberlemno and
Monikie parishes. Vestiges of Roman camps are at
Haerfaulds in Lour Moor, at a part in Forfar Moor
about i mile NE of Forfar town, and at War Dykes or
Black Dikes, 2J miles N of Brechin. At DUNNICHEN
the revolted 1'icts defeated and slew Ecgfrid, the Nor-
thumbrian king, recovering thus their independence,
20 May 685. Carved stones at Glamis are believed to
refer to the drowning of the murderers of Malcolm II.,
who are said to have perished by falling through the
ice on Forfar Loch. In Rescobie Castle, Donald Bane,
brother to Malcolm Ceannmor, was tortured by his
nephew Edgar, and died in 1097, his enemy dying ten
years later. Queen Mary in her journey north visited,
besides the abbey at Coupar-Angus, the castle of Edzcll.
Great medieval castles were at Forfar and Dundee, but
have long been extinct; and other medieval castles,
still represented by considerable remains, in various
conditions of conservation or of ruin, are Broughty
Castle at Broughty Ferry, Red Castle at the head of
Lunan Bay, Airlie Castle in Airlie parish, Finhaven
Castle in Oathlaw parish, Invermark Castle and Edzell
Castle in Glenesk, Kelly Castle near Arbroath, and
Affleck Castle in Monikie parish. A round tower,
similar to the famous round towers of Ireland, and the
only one in Scotland except one at Abernethy, is at
Brechin. Interesting ancient ecclesiastical edifices, or
ruins of them, are the parish church or quondam cathe-
dral of Brechin, the tower of the town churches of
Dundee, the abbey of Arbroath, the Priory of Restennet,
and the churches of Kettins and Fowlis. Several monas-
tic edifices, of inferior note to Arbroath Abbey, were in
Dundee, Montrose, Brechiu, and other places, but have
in most instances entirely disappeared. See Andrew
Jervise's Memorials of Angus and Mearns (Edinb. 1801),
and Land of the Lindsays (Edinb. 1853); William Mar-
shall's Historic Scenes in Forfarshire (Edinb. 1875);
T. Lawson's Report on the Past ami 1'retvnt Agriculture
of Forfarshire (Edinb. 1881); James Macdouald's 'Agri-
culture of the County of Forfar ' in Tram, of the Hiyhl.
and Ag. Soc. (1881); Alex. J. Warden's Angus or For-
farshire, the Land and People (i vols., Dundee, 1880-83);
and works referred to under ARBROATH, BUEOHIN, DUN-
DEE, and MARYTON.
Forfarshire Railway. See DUNDEE AND FORFAR
RAILWAY.
Forgan, a parish in the N of Fife, on the Firth of
Tay, containing the post-town of NEWPORT and the
village of WOODHAVEN, the former 11 miles NNE of
Cupar and 1J mile SSE of Dundee (by steam ferry). It
is bounded NW by the Firth of Tay, E by Ferryport-
on-Craig and Leuchars, S by Leuchars, Logie, and Kil-
many, and W by Balmerino. Its utmost length, from
E by N to W by S, is 5J miles; its breadth varies be-
tween 1J and 3 miles; and its area is 5082^ acres, of
which 100 are foreshore. The Firth of TAY, contracting
here from 2 miles to 1J mile, is crossed at Wormit
FORGANDENN7
Bay, in the western extremity of the parish, by tha
Tay Bridge. The coast line, 3| miles long, trends,
with slight curvature, from SW to NE; and above and
below Newport projects the small headlands of Pluck
the Crow Point and Craig Head (formerly Skarness).
The shore at ebb tide is entirely silt or clay, at high
water shows a line of gravel or boulders; and the coast
is all bold or rocky, rising rapidly in places to a height
of 100 feet above sea-level. The interior presents
erior pre
ies of hei
irregular and undulating surface, a series of heights and
hollows that attains 300 feet nearNorthfield, Inverdovet,
rt, and Wormithill, and 400 at Newton Hill in
corner of the parish. The land slopes generally
ds the Tay; and the immediate seaboard is, to a
extent, studded with villas of Dundee merchants
St Fort, and Wormithill, and 400 at Newton Hill in
the SW corner of the
towards
large
and manufacturers, and, finely adorned with gardens,
shrubberies, and woods, commands magnificent views
across and along the Tay. The principal rocks are
sandstone, sandstone conglomerate, fine-grained green-
stone-trap, and amygdaloidal greenstone, the last of
which has been largely quarried, both for house-building
and for enclosures. The soil, over the greater part of the
area, consists of the debris of the trap rocks, being partly
light and gravelly, but chiefly either a good black loam
or a clayey earth. About four-fifths of the entire area
are in tillage, the rest being pretty equally divided be-
tween grass and plantations. Cairns or tumuli, com-
posed of small stones, were formerly numerous ; and
rude ancient urns have been found at Newport, at
Westfield, and in Tayfield Park. At Inverdufatha or
Inverdovet, in 877, the Danes, pursuing the Scots from
DOLLAR, gained a great victory, in which King Con-
stantin mac Kenneth was among the great multitude
slain. St Fort and Tayfield are the chief mansions. In
the presbytery of St Andrews and synod of Fife, this
parish since 1878 has been ecclesiastically divided into
Forgan proper and Newport, the former a living worth
362. Its old church standing in ruins at a beautiful
sequestered spot, 2J miles SE of Newport, was anciently
held by St Andrews priory; the present one was built in
1841. In 1895 a hall was built at Wormit, and opened
for public worship on 15 Sept. Four other places of
worship-Established, Free, U.P., and Congregational-
are noticed under NEWPORT; and two public schools,
Forgan and Newport, with respective accommodation for
130 and 421 children, have an average attendance of 106
and 301, and grants of 90, 3s. 8d. and 333, 2s. 6d.
Valuation (1892) 27,041, 9s. 5d. Pop. of civil parish
(1801) 916, (1831) 1090, (1861) 1326, (1891) 3763; of
ecclesiastical parish (1881) 1533, (1891) 1899. Ord. Sur.,
shs. 49, 48, 1865-68.
Forgandenny, a post-office village in Perthshire, and
a parish formerly partly also in Kinross-shire. The
village stands 130 feet above sea-level, 3 miles W of
Bridge of Earn, and 1 mile S of the river Earn, and of a
station of its own name on the Scottish Central section
of the Caledonian railway, this station being 4J miles
SW of Perth.
The parish is bounded NW by Aberdalgie, NE by
Perth and Rhind, E by Dunbarny and Dron, SE by
Arngask, and SW and W by Forteviot. Its utmost
length is 6J miles; its utmost breadth 2J miles. In
1891 the Boundary Commissioners transferred to For-
gandenny parish the Hilton detached part (1887 acres)
of Forteviot parish, but transferred to that parish (and
to Perthshire) so much of Forgandenny as lay south-west
of the river May, thus uniting Forteviot parish with its
remaining detached part. By this transference Forgan-
denny parish is now entirely within the county of Perth.
The river EARN, winding eastward across the northern
portion, describes some of those graceful curves, and
forms some of those beautiful peninsulas, for which it
has been so much admired; and the Water of MAY, its
affluent, has a course of 3 or 4 miles north-westward
along the boundary with Forteviot. Both the Earn and
the May sometimes overflow their banks; but they
amply compensate any damage they inflict by bringing
down rich deposits of fertilising silt. One or two
springs adjacent to the eastern boundary possess exactly
FORGLEN
the same medicinal properties as the Pitcaithly wells.
The northern district, from 30 to 150 feet above the sea,
is part of the beautiful valley of Strathearn, and,
though ascending gradually southwards, is on the
whole level. The southern, beyond the village, c
prises fully three-fourths of the entire area, and runs up
among the Ochil Hills, attaining 300 feet on Dumbuils,
1028 on Castle Law, 624 near Ardargie Mains, 797 near
Rossieochill, and 1354 at Slungie Hill, whose summit,
however, falls just within Orwell parish. It mainly
consists of hill and upland, with little intersecting vale;
yet has but a small aggregate of bare or rocky surface,
and is mostly disposed in either good pasture or corn-
fields. The rocks are partly Devonian, but principally
eruptive; and they include some limestone, some iron-
stone, and great abundance of such kinds of trap as
are suitable for building. The soil on some of the lands
adjacent to the Earn is carse clay, on others a sandy
alluvium; furthers is a rich, black, argillaceous loam;
and on the arable lands of the centre and the S is
variously a sandy earth, a black earth, and a reddish
clay, better adapted for oats than any other sort of
grain. Much land formerly pastoral or waste has been
reclaimed. The mansions of Ardargie, Condie, Freeland,
and Rossie are separately noticed, as likewise are a small
Roman camp on Ardargie estate, an extensive Danish
fortification on Castle Law, and remains of another
ancient fortification on Dumbuils. Forgandenny is in
the presbytery of Perth and synod of Perth and Stirling;
the living is worth 208. The parish church at the
village is very old, and contains 410 sittings. There is
also a Free Church; and a public school, with accom-
modation for 135 children, has an average attend-
ance of 81, and a grant of 83, 10s. Valuation (1882)
7913, 3s. 2d., (1892) 7007, 5s. 9d. Pop. (1801) 958,
(1831) 917, (1861) 739, (1871) 632, (1881) 627, (1891)
575, of whom 16 were in Kinross-shire. Ord. Sur., shs.
48, 40, 1868-67.
Forglen, a parish of NE Banffshire, whose church
stands 2J miles W of Turrilf, at which there is a station
on the Aberdeen and Macduff branch of the Great North
of Scotland railway, and under which there is a post
office of Forglen. It is bounded N and NE by Alvah,
E and S by Turriff in Aberdeenshire, and SW and W
by Marnoch. Its utmost length, from NW to SE,
is 5| miles ; its utmost breadth is 3J miles ; and its
land area is 6249 acres. The river DEVEKON flows
3J miles east-north-eastward along all the southern,
then 3J miles along all the eastern and north-eastern
border. Sinking in the NE to 75 feet above sea level,
the surface thence rises to 400 feet at Todlaw Wood,
323 near Sawmill Croft, 557 at Auldtown Hill, 600
near Craiglug, and 575 at Craig Aithry. It thus is
beautifully varied with gently rising grounds, having
a gradual slope towards the Deveron, and being well
sheltered by woods and hills. Greywacke rock pre-
vails in the W, and appears also in the N and the
centre ; whilst clay slate predominates in the lower
grounds and towards the S. The soil is generally light
sandy along the Deveron, clayey in parts of the
interior, and seldom loamy. Fully one-fifth of the
entire area is under wood, and nearly all the rest of the
land, partly in result of recent reclamation, is either
regularly or occasionally in tillage. Forglen House, on
the left bank of the Deveron, 24 miles N W of Tun-ill', is
a noble castellated edifice of 1839, successor to an older
mansion that dated from the middle of the 15th
century. It is the seat of Sir George William Abercromby
of Birkenbog, chief of the clan Abercromby, and eighth
Bart, since 1636 (b. 1886; sue. 1895). Carnousie, the
other mansion, is noticed separately. Constituted a
parish about 1640 out of portions of Alvah and Marnoch,
Forglen was sometimes known as Tennan or St Eonan
(Adamnan) from an ancient chapel in it, remains of
which still exist. This chapel or a predecessor was
Adamnan's principal church among the northern Picts
towards the close of the 7th century ; and in it was
preserved the Bricbannoch, or banner of St Columba.
The parish of Forglen is in the presbytery of Turriff and
TORQUE
synod of Aberdeen, and the living is 175. The church
was built in 1806, and greatly improved in 1894. In
1892 two stained-glass windows were put in to the
memory of the late Mr and Mrs Harvey of Carnousie.
A Free church stands 2J miles to the WNW; and a
public school, with accommodation for 166 children, has
an average attendance of 116, and a grant of 121, Is. 6d.
Valuation (1860) 4470, (1882) 5378, 14s. 8d., (1893)
4759, 3s. 8d. Pop. (1801) 605, (1831) 820, (1861)
783, (1871) 845, (1881) 744, (1891) 714. Ord. Sur., sh.
Forgue, a parish on the north-western borde
. The ch
church,
sxisted, is situated 5J mill
ind 74 NE of Huntly, under which the:
' :h money order and savings bank department
N and NE by Inverkeithn
f Aber-
hich a hamlet once
f Rothiemay station,
hich there is
offic
The parish is bounded
in Banffshire, E by Auchterless, S by Culsalmond and
Insch, W by Drumblade and Huntly, and NW by
Rothiemay in Banffshire. Its utmost length, from N
to S, is 7 miles ; its breadth from E to W varies be-
tween 2 and 5| miles ; and its area is 17,3794 acres,
of which 254 are water. The river DEVERON winds
9 furlongs along the Rothiemay border; Glen Water or
the URY, flowing 2g miles eastward through the Glen
of Foudland, traces all the southern boundary ; the
YTHAN rises in the southern interior, and passes off into
Auchterless; whilst Forgue and Frendraught Burns,
uniting below the church, carry most of the drainage
northward to the Deveron. The surface declines along
the Deveron to 242 feet above sea-level, at the confluence
of Forgue and Frendraught Burns to 232, along the Ury
to 538, and along the Ythan to 508; and the interior
is a fine alternation of vales and hillocks, holms and
knolls. The north-western extremity is occupied by
part of FOREMAN HILL (1127 feet); and in the S rise
Broom Hill (1006), Wether Hill (943), and the Hill of
Bainshole (1042). The chief rocks are greywacke, clay
slate, limestone, granitic gneiss, and syenitic greenstone,
of which the slate and limestone were formerly quarried
at Lambhill and Pitfancy. The soils are various-
sandy, gravelly, loamy, clayey, and mossy; some rich
and grateful, others poor and barren ; some yielding
from eight to ten returns of the seed sown, of hers re-
turning no more than two or less than three. Much of
the land incapable of being turned to any better account
is covered with plantations. An interesting ruin,
famous in ballad and separately noticed, is Frendraught
Castle ; other antiquities are remains of several an-
cient Caledonian stone circles, and of what is conjec-
tured to have been a Roman redoubt. The Admirable
Crichton (1560-83) has been claimed as a native, falsely,
since ELIOCK, in Dumfriesshire, was his birthplace; but
in Forgue was born the eminent antiquary, John Stuart
LL.D. (1813-77). A large distillery is at Glendronach,
and fairs are held at Hawkhall. In 1875 a neat cottage
hospital was built in this parish by Mrs Morison of
Bognie, for patients resident in the parishes of Forgue,
Ythan-Wells, Auchterless, and Inverkeithny. In front
of it is a granite cross 20 feet high, erected by the
try in 1876 as a memorial to her husband, the
late Alexander Morison, Esq., in pursuance of whose
ihes this hospital was founded. Mansions are Auch-
aber, Aucharnie, Boyne's Mill, Cobairdy, Corse, Drum-
blair House, Drumblair Cottage, Frendraught, Haddo,
nd Temple-land. In the presbytery of Turrilf and
synod of Aberdeen, this parish includes the chief part
of YTHAN-WELLS quoad sacra parish, itself being a
ng worth 311. Its church, erected in 1819, is a
substantial edifice, with 900 sittings, Gothic windows,
and a fine-toned organ, presented by Walter Scott, Esq.
of Glendronach, in 1872. The same gentleman pre-
ited a hall to the church in 1885. There are also
Free church of Forgue, and an Episcopal church,
St Margaret's, which latter, rebuilt in 1857, is an
Early English structure, with nave, chancel, and a
tower and spire 110 feet high. Forgue public, Largue
public, and Forgue Episcopal school, with respective
accommodation for 140, 140, and 61 children, have
15
iles N by E of Alyth. It
ve sea-level,
, and
an average attendance of 101, 86, and 51, and grant*
of 92, 3s., 88, 15s., and 45, 2s. Pop. of civil
parish (1801) 1768, (1831) 2286, (1861) 2686, (1871)
2t3-23, (1881) 2422, (1891) 2239; of ecclesiastical parish
(1871) 1332, (1881) 1303, (1891) 1258. Ord. Xur., sh.
86, 1876.
Forklngs, a hamlet of S Roxburghshire, 9 miles E by
S of Hawick.
Formal, Knock of, a hill near the SW border of Lin-
trathen parish, W Forfarshire, on the western shore of
the Loch of Lintrathen, 4
rises to an altitude of 1158 feet abo
covered with wood to the top.
Forman. See FOREMAN.
Formartine, a central district of Aberdeenshire. It
is bounded on the NE by Buchan, on the E by the
German Ocean, on the S by Aberdeen, on the SW by
Garioch, on the NW by Strathbogie. It comprises all
the seaboard from the Ythan to the Don; extends up
the N side of the Ythan 's basin and past Turriff to the
Deveron; is separated by a ridge of low hills, near Old
Meldrum, from Garioch; and has an area of about 280
square miles. It consists partly of a strong soil inter-
sected by bogs, and partly of an excellent clay capable
of a high degree of improvement; and it gives the title
of Viscount to the Earl of Aberdeen. Formartine
Castle, on the Ythan, is a complete ruin, with the
exception of two modern rooms preserved for the ac-
commodation of parties visiting the place. The For-
martine and Buchan railway intersects the entire dis-
trict, from the Don northward to the Ythan, and has
stations at 1'arkliill, New Machar, Udny, Logierieve, and
Esslemont.
Forneth, a hamlet in Clunio parish, NE Perthshire,
t> miles W by S of Blairgowrie, under which it lias a post
office. Forneth House, i mile nearer Blairgowrie,
crowns a fine elevation on the N\V bank of the loch of
CLUNIE, and commands a beautiful prospect of the lake,
its islet, and surrounding scenes.
Fornoughty, a hamlet iu Katliven parish, NW Banff-
shire, 3J miles S of Buckie.
Torres (Gael, far-uis, ' near the water '), a parish in
the NW of the county of Elgin, is bounded on the NE
by Kinloss, on the E, SE, and .S by Kaflbrd, on the
SW by Edinkillie, and on the W by Dyke and Moy.
The boundary on the SW and W is the river Findhorn;
elsewhere it is artificial and excessively irregular. There
is a long narrow strip running N and S, and from the
middle of this a horn-like projection runs eastward into
the parish of Raflbrd, and terminates near Califermoss.
The greatest length from the point on the N in Find-
liorn Bay, where Forres unites with the parishes of
Kinloss and Dyke and Moy, to the point on the S
where it unites with the parishes of Ration! and Edin-
killie, is 6J miles; and the breadth, from E to \V, from
the most easterly point of the long projection already
mentioned, to the point on the W on the river Find-
horn, where the parishes of Forres, Edinkillie, and
Dyke and Moy unite, is 5J. Owing, however, to its
irregular shape, the area is only 5440 acres. The sur-
face in the northern district is low and level, and is
highly cultivated, as is also that of the central district,
which is diversified by small round hills crowned with
clumps of trees that, along with the hedgerows, give
to the neighbourhood of Forres a peculiarly English
aspect. In the eastward projection the ground rises
more steeply, and at Califer Hill attains a height of
700 feet above sea-level. The wooded ridge of Cluny
Hill, close to the town of Forres, is noticed in the
following article. The woods of Altyre in the S are
extensive and, in some places, picturesque. The soil
of the lower and central districts is mostly a good
loam, but in parts it is light and sandy, and, like
most of the 'Laich of Moray,' of which an old proverb
says, that
it takes a good deal of rain in the earlier part of the
season to bring the crops to full perfection. The soil of
FOBEES
the southern portion is poorer and in parts mossy. Tlie
underlying rocks are sandstone and impure limestone, a
quarry in the latter in the extreme S of the parish, near
Cothall, being sometimes worked. The climate is good,
and the air dry and pure. The parish is drained by the
river Findhorn, flowing 5f miles northward along all the
western border, and by the Burn of Forres or ALTYRE,
which, entering from Rafford parish, winds 5J miles
northward past the W end of the town, till it falls into
Findhorn Bay. Although the mouth of this burn and
the mouth proper of the river Findhorn are a mile apart
along the edge of the bay, and the edge of the bay is
more than a mile and a half from the town of Forres,
yet, during the great flood of the 3 and 4 Aug. 1829,
so much were both river and burn swollen, that their
waters united near the W end of the town at the Castle
Hill, the whole of the low country to the N being under
water. 'The view of the inundated plain of Forres,'
says Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, ' from the Castlehill of
the borough, on the morning of the 4th, though truly
magnificent, was such as to overwhelm the mind of the
spectator with dismay. From Mundole, about 2 miles
to the W of Forres, and from Forres to Findhorn, about
5 miles to the N, the whole plain was under water.
The river and the burn met under the Castlehill, and
the inundation spread over the rich and variously
cropped fields, and over hedges, gardens, orchards, and
plantations. In this "world of waters "the mansions
of proprietors, the farmhouses and offices, the trees, and
especially the hedgerows, giving its peculiarly English
appearance to the environs of Forres the ricks of hay,
and here and there a few patches of corn standing on
situations more elevated than the rest, presented a truly
wonderful scene. One- half of the bridge of Forres, over
the burn immediately under the Castlehill, had disap-
peared during the night, having parted longitudinally;
and, over the part that yet remained, the people on the W
side of the burn were hastily removing their families,
cattle, and furniture to the hill on which Forres stands,
after having waded to the middle to rescue them from the
flood.' The Loch of Blairs, measuring 3 by 2 furlongs,
and lying 2J miles SSW of the town, is partly in Forres
parish, partly in Ratford. The parish is traversed by the
Highland railway system. The line from Inverness to
Keith pusses across the parish near the centre from SW to
NE for a distance of 2 miles. At the W end of the town
of Forres the Perth section of the line branches off and
passes in a SE direction through the parish for more
than 24 miles. At the SW end of the Inverness and
Keith section, the Findhorn is crossed by a heavy plate-
girder bridge with 3 spans of 150 feet each, the girders
being supported by massive abutments on each side,
and by 2 piers in the waterway of the river. The piers
are founded on rock 15 feet below the bed. The great
road from Aberdeen to Inverness passes through the
parish a little to the S of the railway for a distance of
24 miles. It passes through the town of Forres, and
crosses the Findhorn by an elegant suspension bridge,
which was erected in 1831 from designs by Sir Samuel
Brown, R.N. The river was formerly crossed at the
same place by a handsome bridge of 3 arches, but it was
" d of 1829, and, at the same
oad to the E was destroyed,
and 'left in deep holes full of salmon.' The present bridge
cost nearly 10,000, and the pontage charged here was
the last toll in the county to be abolished. The chains
are supported at either side of the river by well pro-
portioned Gothic towers. The industries of the parish
are connected with the town of the same name, and are
noticed in the following article. Sanquhar House, f
mile S of the town, is an Elizabethan structure, in plan
resembling a double cross, and greatly enlarged in 1863.
The main building is two stories high, and at the NW
corner rises an octagonal three-story tower. There
are good gardens, and in the park are a number of fine
trees ; whilst to the N of the house is a beautiful
artificial lake. William Fraser-Tytler (1777-1853),
eldest son of Lord WOODHOUSELEE, in 1801 married
Margaret Cussans, only .daughter and heiress of George
swept away by the great flood of 1829, and,
time, a mile of the turnpike ro
FORRES
Grant of Burdsyards or Sanquhar; and his second sou,
Charles Edward Fraser-Tytler of Aldourie and Balmain
(1816-81), left ALDOURIE in Inverness-shire to his eldest
surviving son, Edward Grant, and Sanquhar to the
third, William Theodore. Invererne House, which is
1J mile N by W of the town, is a quadrangular building
of four stories, built in 1818. The old name of it was
Tannachy, and it belonged to the family of Tulloch of
Tannachy, who, however, had to part with it in 1772.
The name has been changed since the present proprietor
acquired it in 1834. It was at one time the residence
of Charles St John, the well-known author of Wild
Sports of the Highlands and of Natural History and
Sport in Moray. Forres House, which is on the out-
skirts of the town, has a large garden and policies ex-
tending to the base of the Cluny Hill. The site was
formerly occupied by a fine old mansion-house which
also belonged to the Tannachy family. Drumdunn
House is near the E end of the town. The parish is in
the presbytery of Forres and synod of Moray ; the living
is worth 309. The public, the infant public, Ander-
son's Endowed, and the industrial Episcopalian school,
with respective accommodation for 400, 169, 227, and
167 children, have an average attendance of 442, 121.
194, and 162, and grants of 500, 7s., 98, 14s. 6d.,
219, 5s. 6d., and 155, 2s. 6d. Pop. (1801) 3114, (1831)
3895, (1861) 4112, (1871) 4562, (1881) 4752, (1891) 4801,
Ord. Sur., shs. 84, 85, 94, 1876-78.
Forres is the seat of a presbytery in the synod of
Moray, comprehending the parishes of Forres, Dallas,
Dyke, Edinkillie, Kinloss, and Rafford, and Darnaway
mission church. Pop. (1871) 10,359, (1881) 10,202,
(1891) 9628, of whom 874 were communicants of the
Church of Scotland in 1895. The Free Church has also
a presbytery of Forres, including churches in the same
six parishes, which together had 1836 members and
adherents in 1894.
Forres, a town, with the privileges of a royal burgh,
in the centre of the foregoing parish. It stands on a
terraced ridge, extending from E to W, and sloping
gently to the N and S. The site is pleasant and well
sheltered, the surrounding country finely wooded and
beautiful; and the sheltered situation combined with
the dry soil makes it one of the healthiest places in
Scotland, so much so, indeed, that it has sometimes
been called the Montpelier of Scotland. Owing to the
configuration of the country round about Forres, the
burgh enjoys a remarkable immunity from rain, the
rainfall having been ascertained from accurate obser-
vations to be about the lowest in Scotland. The large
number of detached villas and the great extent of
garden ground give the town the appearance of being
much larger and having a great many more inhabitants
than is actually the case. The station on the Highland
railway, greatly improved in 1876-77, is the junction of
the Inverness, the Keith, and the Perth sections of the
system. The railway convenience thus afforded has
greatly aided in the development of the town and the
increase of its trade that have taken place in recent
years. By rail it is 12 W by S of Elgin, 30 WNW of
Keith, 83J NW by W of Aberdeen, 25 ENE of Inver-
ness, 166| NNW of Edinburgh, and 182 NNE of
The name Forres is probably the Gaelic/ar, 'near,' and
uis, 'water;' but however that may be, it is a place of
considerable antiquity. It has been by many writers
identified with the Varais of Ptolemy's chart, and
mention is made by Boece that so early as 535 certain of
its merchants were for some trifling cause put to death
and their goods confiscated to the king. Malcolm I. is
said to have resided in the neighbourhood; and Ulurn
or Vlern, where, according to the later chronicles, he
was killed in 954, has by some writers been identified
with Blervie Castle, 4J miles ESE of Forres. (See
FETTERESSO.) King Dubh or Duffus, the son of Mal-
colm, is said to have been murdered in the castle at
Forres by Donald, the governor, in 967; and there is a
curious story that his body was hidden under the bridge
of Kinloss, and that, till it was found, the sun did not
FORRES
shine. At Forres, according to Boece, the 'gracious'
King Duncan held his court, and Shakespeare, founding
thereon, has made Macbeth and Banquo, going to the
camp, meet the weird sisters on the Hard Muir, in the
parish of Dyke close by
' How far is't called to Torres?'
Though Forres thus early was evidently a place of as
much importance as or even more than Elgin, it does
not seem to have been able to keep pace with its rival
after the foundation of the bishopric, when Elgin be-
came the centre of ecclesiastical power and influence in
the province. At what date Forres became a royal burgh
is uncertain, as all the older charters have been lost,
and the oldest now remaining is one of De novo damus,
granted by King James IV., and dated 23 June 1496. It
narrates that the king, ' understanding that the ancient
charters granted to the town of Forres have been de-
stroyed in time of war or by the violence of fire," now
grants anew in free burgage all the lauds and rights
formerly belonging to the community, with power to
elect a provost and bailies, etc., who were to exercise
jurisdiction within the burgh boundaries. Liberty was
also given to erect a cross and to hold 'a weekly mar-
ket on Friday, and an annual fair, beginning on the
Vigil of St Lawrence, and to continue for eight days
. . . with all and sundry other privileges and im-
munities of a free burgh. 1 The oldest notices of the
place that exist from contemporary documents are in
connection with the castle, which stood on a green
mound at the W end of the town, now known as the
Castle Hill. A northern bard has declared that
iere her judges o'er and o'er
Scotland's laws dispense;
Lnd there the monarchs of the land
n former days held high command,
Ind ancient architects had planned,
- ' - ~ of art in order grand,
n.y.i
;built,
it protec
then sur
the priv
The older castle of Forres, where King Duffus is said to
have been murdered, and which is said to have been
razed after his death, was probably by no means so
grand as this, and was very possibly of wood. 'Its
keep and walls were no doubt strengthened, if not
'n the reign of David I., when the town which
,ed is first mentioned as a king's burgh. It was
rrounded by a forest, in which the burgesses had
vilege of wood-bote granted to them by that
monarch.' The castle was a royal residence, and
William the Lyon dated charters here in 1189 and 1193,
and Alexander II. dated a charter from the same place
in 1238. In 1264 William Wiseman, sheriff of Forres,
paid 10 for the erection of a new tower beyond the
king's chamber ; and in the chamberlain's accounts
about the same time, in the reign of Alexander III.,
there are entries of expenditure for various articles for
the king's table here. King David II. issued a writ at
the castle of Forres in 1367, and it is mentioned again
in 1371 under Robert II. The castle was the oilicial
residence of the hereditary sheriffs of Moray, and so
was in the possession of the family of Dunbar of West-
field for more than 300 years. From them it passed to
the Earl of Seafield, and now belongs to Sir James R.
D. Macgrigor, Bart. The ruins which now stand on
the Castle Hill are not the remains of the old castle,
but the relics of a house projected and partly built by
William Dawson, provost of Forres, about 1712. The
foundations of the old castle were exposed when the NW
slope of the hill was being planted with trees nearly
thirty years ago. On the level space to the W of the
ruins stands a lofty obelisk of polished Peterhead gran-
ite resting on a freestone base. This base is 24 feet
square; the die of the obelisk is 9J feet square; and
the whole structure rises to a height of 65 feet. It was
erected by public subscription, in 1857, in memory of
Assistant-Surgeon James Thomson, who, as set forth in
the inscription, was present with the 54th Regiment 'at
the battle of Alma in 1854 ; and a few days afterwards,
FORRES
when the British were leaving the field, volunteered
to remain behind with 700 desperately wounded Rus-
sians. Isolated from his countrymen, endangered by
the vicinity of large bodies of Cossacks, ill-supplied with
food, and exposed to the risk of pestilence, he succeeded
in restoring to health about 400 of the enemy and em-
barking them for Odessa. He then died from the effects
of excessive hardships and privation. This public
monument is erected as a tribute of respect for the virtue
of an officer whose life was useful and whoso death was
glorious.' Dr Thomson was a native of Cromarty, but
the authorities there refused a suitable site for the
obelisk, and the subscribers accepted the offer of Dr
Thomson's friend, Sir Charles R. Macgrigor, of this site
on the Castle Hill at Forres. Opposite the entrance to
the Castle Hill, on the site now occupied by Auchernack
Cottage, stood a humble house, where James Dick (1743-
1828), the founder of the Dick Bequest, was born. Early
in the nineteenth century Mr Dick had accumulated in
America the large fortune of 140,000. This fortune he
At his death bequeathed to trustees for the benefit of the
parochial schoolmasters in the counties of Aberdeen,
Banff, and Elgin. Besides the castle, other objects of
antiquarian interest that may be mentioned are Sueno's
Stone and the Witch's Stone. Both are at the E end
of the town near the old toll-house, Sueno's Stone being
to the E and the Witch's Stone to the W of it.
Sueno's Stone is an elaborately carved pillar of hard
reddish grey sandstone, about 23 feet high, 4 wide at
the base, and 15 inches thick. The broad faces are
towards the N and S. On the N side are three divi-
sions. Below are two figures seemingly bending to-
wards one another, while a smaller human figure stands
behind each. In the upper division is a. long cross,
with a circle at the intersection of the arms. The cross
and the whole of the centre division are covered with
elaborate carving, forming so-called Runic knots. The
edges are also covered with Runic knotting, and at
the base of one of them are several figures, sreinin^ly
females. On the S side there are five divisions. The
first shows groups of figures, with the walls of some
building in the background; the second has a body of
horsemen advancing at full gallop, and infantry follow-
ing with spears in their hands and shields on their arms.
The sculptured figures on the third are engaged in battle;
at the top warriors seem to be attacking a gateway; and
in one of the corners are a number of headless bodies.
The fourth division shows bound captives, some appar-
ently women, while above is a row of warriors with un-
sheathed swords. The last division is much worn, but
seems to have contained a number of figures on horse-
back. The stone received its name from Boece's sup-
position that it was erected to commemorate a victory of
Sueno, son of Harald, King of Denmark, gained at
Forres over the forces of Malcolm II. in 1008. Dr
Skene, however, inclines to the belief that it comme-
morates a fray in the year 900 between Sigurd the
Powerful, Norwegian Earl of Orkney, and a Scottish
earl, Melbrigda, in which the latter fell and all his men
with him. ' Earl Sigurd and his men fastened their
heads to the saddle straps in bravado, and so they rode
home triumphing in their victory. As they were proceed-
ing Earl Sigurd, intending to kick at his horse with his
foot, struck the calf of his leg against a oth protrud-
ing from Earl Melbrigda 's head, which scratched him
slightly; but it soon became swollen and painful, and
he died of it. He was buried in a mound at Ekkials-
bakki,' which Dr Skene proceeds to identify with the
river Findhorn (Celtic Scotland, i. 337, 1876). In
1813 eight human skeletons were found near the pillar;
and in 1827 a large stone coffin was dug out of a steep
bank above the Fiudhorn. Of the pillar there is an
excellent drawing in the first volume of Stuart's Sculp-
tured Stones of Scotland (Plates xviii. -xxi. ) The Witch's
Stone is at the foot of the hawthorn hedge on the S side
of the turnpike road to the W of the old toll-house. It
is the remaining one of three stones which traditionally
marked the spot where three witches, accused of plotting
the death of King Duffus, were put to death. The king,
FORRES
according to the tradition preserved, after returning from
one of his visits to Forres, was taken ill at Scone. His
physicians, unable to check the disease, concluded that
he had been bewitched while in the North, and instruc-
tions were sent to the governor of the castle to institute
inquiries. The witches were surprised at midnight, and
found with a wax image of the king slowly melting
before the fire. They were immediately seized and
taken to the top of Cluny Hill, and there each was
placed in a barrel. The barrels were then sent rolling
down the hill, and at the place where they stopped they
and their contents were burned, and stones set up to mark
the spot. The survivor at one time was broken up for
building purposes, but the town authorities caused the
pieces to be brought back, clasped with iron, and placed
m the original position. A stone within the field on
the opposite side of the road is said to be another of
the three, but this is doubtful. Forres seems to have
been, from the days of the weird sisters downwards, a
place of note for witches; and the last of them, an old
woman named Dorothy Calder, was, by the aid of fifteen
cart-loads of peats, burned to death early in the 18th
century on the top of Drumduaii Hill, the common place
of execution. Near the centre of the town stands the
town-house, built in 1839 on the site of the old Tol-
bootli, which dated from 1700. The present building
is in the Tudor style, with a handsome square tower.
It contains the council chamber, the town-clerk's offices,
and the court-room. Close to it, in the centre of the
street, is a neat little marketcross, erected in 1844.
It is an imitation of the great crosses of the Middle
Ages, and somewhat resembles, though on a very small
scale, the Edinburgh monument to Sir Walter Scott.
A little to the W is the Falconer Museum (1870), a
neat building in the Italian style. The expense of its
erection was covered by a sum of money bequeathed for
this purpose by Alexander Falconer in 1856, and a fur-
ther bequest by his brother, the late Dr Hugh Falconer
(another of the distinguished sons of Forres), so well
known for his palseontological labours, who besides bi-
queathed to it a number of curiosities as a nucleus for
the collection. It contains a number of the Sewalifc
fossils discovered and admirably described by Dr Fal-
coner, and the collection of Old Red Sandstone fishes
formed by the late Lady Gordon-dimming of Altyre,
many of them being specimens described and named by
Agassiz. The Mechanics' Institute is on the N side of
High Street. It is a massive quasi-classical building,
with a good library, etc., and contains two large halls,
which are used for public meetings, concerts, etc.,
and one of which is capable of seating 1000 persons.
Anderson's Institution was erected in accordance with a
deed of settlement of a native of Torres, Jonathan An-
derson, who, in 1814, made over to the magistrates and
town council the lands of Cowlairs, now forming part
of the city of Glasgow, for the purpose of erecting a
school and paying a teacher, so that the children of
necessitous parents in the parishes of Forres, Rafford,
and Kinloss might be instructed in reading, English,
writing, arithmetic, and such other branches of edu-
cation as the provost, magistrates, and town council
should judge proper. It is a Grecian structure of
1824, remodelled in 1881, at a cost of over 3000,
to meet the requirements of the Education Act. The
Agricultural Hall was erected, in 1867, by a joint-
stock company at a cost of 1700. It is an oblong
building, Grecian in style, and measures 150 by 58 feet.
In it are held the Christmas shows of the Forres and
Northern Fat Cattle Club. A gallery along the sides
and the N end gives space for the display of grain,
seeds, farm-implements, etc. The market buildings
were erected also by a joint-stock company in 1851 ;
and an auction mart was opened in 1877. Gas was
introduced in 1837, and water in 1848. The parish
church was built in 1775, and repaired in 1839, and
again in 1860; it is now (1897) proposed to build a
new church. It stands on the site of the old church of
t Lawrence. There are a Free church (783 sittings), ii
Gothic United Presbyterian church (1871), with several
stained-glass windows, superseding a building of date
1812, St John's Episcopal church (1840), Italian in
style, an Evangelical Union church, a Baptist chapel
(1860), and Salvation Army barracks.
To the SE of the town is the wooded ridge of the
Cluny Hill, which belongs to the burgh, and is laid out
for the recreation of the inhabitants. The ridge is
covered with fine plantations, and walks wind along in
all directions amid the trees. There are three distinct
hills, and on the summit of the highest is an octagonal
tower, erected by public subscription in 1806 to com-
memorate Lord Nelson and his victories. It is 24 feet
in diameter, and 70 high. On panels on the outside
are inscribed 'In memory of Admiral Lord Nelson,'
'Nile, 1 August 1798,' 'Copenhagen, 2 April 1801,'
aad 'Trafalgar, 21 August 1805.' There arc a number
of floors, and the room on the first contains a marble
bust of Lord Nelson. The top is reached by a spiral
stair, and the view therefrom is magnificent. The
eye ranges over a wide expanse of country, beginning
with the richly wooded plains of Kinloss, Forrcs, and
Dyke and Hoy, and passing over the Moray Firth to
the distant blue hills of Ross and Sutherland. On the
southern slope of the hill is the Cluny Hill Hydro-
pathic Establishment, admirably situated on dry soil,
with a sheltered and sunny exposure, and commanding
an extensive and fine view.
Forres has a head post office, with money order, sav-
ings' bank, insurance, and telegraph departments, offices
of the British Linen, National, Caledonian, and Royal
Banks, a National Security Savings Bank, insurance com-
panies, a cottage hospital (1889), a branch of the Bible
Society, a number of religious and charitable societies,
a cemetery, a property investment company, masonic
lodges, the Forrcs Club, cricket, bowling, and Oddfellows
clubs, angling and musical associations, public and
Good Templar halls, etc. There are also a woollen and
a boot and shoe manufactory, a chemical work, two
Hour-mills, several saw-mills, and granite, coach, and
bobbin works. Since the discontinuance of the railway
to Findhorn omnibuses for that place leave Forres several
times daily. The Liberal Forres, Elgin, and Xtiirn
Gazelle (1837) is published on Wednesday. A weekly
iiMi-k.'t is held on Tuesday, and fairs for cattle and other
live stock are held on the first and third Tuesdays of
January, February, March, April, May (also last Tues-
day), June, July, August, September, October, and
November, and on the first Tuesday of December, and
a special fat-stock market on Tuesday at least lour days
bclbre Christmas. Hiring fairs are held on the Saturday
before 28 May, on the first Tuesday of August (for
shearers), and on
the Saturday before
28 November. Jus-
tice of Peace courts
a small debt circuit
court on the second
Monday of Feb.,
April, June, Aug.,
October, and Dec.
The town is gov-
erned by a provost,
3 bailies, a dean of
guild, a treasurer,
and 11 councillors,
who, under the
Burgh Police Act
of police. The town possesses extensive
l:nids, the boundary of which, extending over about 15
miles, was officially perambulated in 1840. The arms
of the town are Saint Lawrence (the patron saint) in a
long habit, holding a gridiron: round his head is a
nimbus, at his right side is a crescent, and at the left
a star of six points; in his right hand is a book. The
motto is Jehova tu mihi Vetts, quid deest? Forres
unites with INVERNESS, Nairn, and Fortrose in return-
Seal of Forrcs.
FORTEVIOT
ing a member to parliament, its parliamentary constitu-
ency numbering 527, and its municipal 683 in 1896.
Corporation revenue (1832) 620, (1854) 707, (1879)
2235, (1881) 1715, (1895) 1578. Burgh valuation
(1867) 7796, (1875) 11,116, (1882) 14,498, (1895)
16,278. Pop. of parliamentary, royal, and police
burgh (1851) 3468, (1861) 4112, (1871) 3959, (1881)
4030, (1891) 3971, of whom 2224 were females. Ord.
Sur., sh. 84, 1876.
Forrestfield, a North British station, at the N border
of Shotts parish, Lanarkshire, near the meeting-point
with Linlithgow and Stirling shires, 6J miles ENE of
Airdrie, and 8 W by S of Bathgate.
Forrestmill. See FORESTMILL.
Forsa, a rivulet of Torosay parish, Mull island, Argyll-
shire. Rising on the skirt of Bentalloch, it runs 6i miles
north-north-westward along a glen called from it Glen-
forsa, and falls into the Sound of Mull at Pennygown,
where its width is 22 yards. It contains both salmon
and sea-trout. Glenforsa has an average width of j mile,
and is flanked by grassy or heathy hills, that rise with
an acclivity of 30 degrees. Colonel Gardyne of Glen-
forsa, the proprietor, has formed a breeding-pond on
the river for the improvement of line fishing, and some-
times allows anglers residing at Salen Hotel to fish in
the river.
Forse, an estate, with a mansion, in Latheron parish,
Caithness, 2i miles W of Lybster. Forse fishing hamlet,
2 miles WSW of Lybster, has an inn ; and on the cliffs
here is the site of an old castle.
Forsinard, a station, an inn, and a post office on the
Sutherland and Caithness section of the Highland rail-
way, 20i miles SW of Halkirk, 24J NNW of Helms-
dale, and 35 j WSW of Wick. Formerly in the Suther-
land portion of Reay parish, it was transferred by the
Boundary Commissioners in 1891 with this portion to
the Sutherland parish of Farr.
Forss, a stream and an estate of N W Caithness. Forss
AVater, issuing from Loch Shurrery (321 feet), winds 12i
miles northward, through or along the borders of Reay,
H.-ilkirk, and Thurso parishes, till it falls into the North
Sea at Crosskirk Bay. It is subject, t o grea t freshets, doing
much injury to the lands near its banks; and is well
frequented by sea-trout and grilse. Forss House, near
the right bank of the stream, and about a mile from
Crosskirk Bay, is 5$ miles W of Thurso town. Forss
Hill lies to the south-east of Forss House a short way,
both being in the parish of Thurso. There is a post
oilice of Forss under Thurso. Ord. Sur., sh. 115, 1878.
Fort Augustus. See AUGUSTUS, Four.
Fort Charlotte. See LEKWICK.
Forter, an ancient castle of the Ogilvies in Glenisla
t bank ol
of the Isla, 4
parish, Forfarshire, on the right
miles NNW of Kirkton of Glenisla. Commanding th
glen, together with passes leading to Glenshee and Brae-
mar, it was plundered and destroyed by the Earl (later
Marquis) of Argyle in July 1640 the month of the
burning of the ' bonnie house of AIKLIE.' It appears to
have been a place of considerable size and strength; and
is now represented by walls partly almost entire, and
partly ruinous. Ord. Sur., sh. 56, 1870.
Forteviot, a village and a parish of SE Perthshire.
The village stands, 60 feet above sea-level, on the right
bank of May Water, J mile above its influx to the Earn,
and has a station on the Scottish Central section of the
Caledonian, 7 miles SW of Perth, under which there is
a post office of Forteviot. On a small eminence now
called the Halyhill, at the W end of the village, over-
hanging May Water, stood Fortevieth, the ancient,
capital of Fortrenn. According to the legend of the
foundation of St Andrews, Angus mac Fergus, King of
the Picts (731-61), here built a church, his three sons
having already dedicated a tenth of the city to God and
St Andrew; and in his palace hero Kenneth mac Alpin
died in 860. The mill of Forteviot lies a little way to
the N of the site of the palace. Wynton records a
curious story that Malcolm Ceannmor was an illegitimate
son of King Duncan by the miller of Forteviot's daughter:
anyhow, Forteviot was a favourite residence with Mai-
FORT GEORGE
colm; and on the 'Miller's Acre,' near the Halyhill,
Edward Baliol's army encamped before the battle of
DUPPLIN (1332).
The parish, comprising the ancient parishes of Fort-
eviot and Muckersie, until 1891, consisted of three
separate portions the main body, containing the village ;
the Hilton section, immediately W of Craigend village,
and 2 miles ENE of the main body; and the Whik-l.ill
section, 1J mile SE of the southern extremity of the
main body. The Boundary Commissioners, in the year
above-mentioned, united the Whitehill section with the
main body of the parish by transferring to it (and to
Perthshire) the intervening Kinross-shire portion of the
parish of Forgandenny that is, so much of the latter
parisli as lay to the south-west of the river May. The
Hilton detached section, however (comprising 1887
acres) was at the same time transferred to the parisli of
Forgandenny. The parish is bounded N by Tibbermore,
NE by Aberdalgie, E by Forgandenny, SE by Arngask,
S by Orwell in Kinross-shire, SW and W by Dunning,
and NW by Findo Cask. Its length from N to S is
about 8 miles, and its greatest breadth, at the southern
extremity, is 3 miles, contracting to a mile and a half at
the northern extremity, and to about a mile towards the
centre. The EARN winds east-north-eastward across
the northern portion of the parish, then along the
southern border of Aberdalgie parish; and its beautiful
affluent, MAY Water, after forming the SW boundary
witli Dunning, crosses the parish in the southern portion
and forms the eastern boundary with Forgandenny till
it passes Ardargie House, when it re-enters the parish,
and, running NW and N through the centre, falls into
the Earn. Dupplin Lake (3J x 2| furl.) lies, at an
altitude of 410 feet, towards the north-western corner.
Along the Earn the suri'ace declines to close upon 30
feet above sea-level, thence rising to 431 feet near
Upper Cairnie, 504 near Invermay home farm, and
596 feet at Kirkton Hill. The rocks are chiefly erup-
tive and Devonian; and the soil along the Earn is of
high fertility; whilst the southern and northern portions
are finely wooded. INVERMAY, the chief mansion, is
noticed separately. Forteviot is in the presbytery of
Perth and synod of Perth and Stirling; the living is
worth 251. The church, at the village, erected in
M'm'.k,.'rsie, o'n'the M^-sTeft bank', 1 mUeESE of Tnver-
n.ay, was Inn- th,, bnrying-place of the Belshes family.
Two public schools, Forteviot and Patli of Condie, with
respective accommodation for 98 and 64 children, have
an average attendance of 57 and 39, and grants of
67, 2s. 6d. and 54. 6s. 6d. Valuation (184:3) 6:!01,
(1882) 8261, 13s. 6d., (1892) 7111, 8s. 7(1. Pop.
(1801) 786, (1831) 624, (1861) 595, (1871) 567, (1881)
618, (1891) 53.Onl. Stir., shs. 48, 40, 1868-67.
Fort George. See GKOKGK, FORT.
Forth, a mining village and a ,/nnnd mem parish in
Camwatli parish, K Lanarkshire. The village, standing
800 feet above sea-level, is 1 mile SSW of Wilsontown,
to which there is a branch line from the Caledonian
railway, and which is 3 miles W of Auchengray station,
and 7 : ; XNK of Lanark, under which it has a post oilier
At it are an Established church, a Free church, a hotel,
and a public school, which, with accommodation for
2.-ID children, lia-i an average attendance of 113, and a
grant of 107, 13s. 6d. The quoad sacra parish, in the
presbytery of Lanark and synod of Glasgow and Ayr
was constituted in 1881. Pop. of village (1871) 784
(1881) 757, (1891) 563 ; of parish (1881) 2072, (1891)
1526. Ord. Sur., sh. 23, 1865.
Forth, a river and an estuary flowin" through or
between Stirlingshire, Perthshire, Clackniaunanshire
Fife, and the Lothians. The river is formed by two
head-streams, Duchray Water and the Avondhu (' black
water '), rising 2 j miles distant from one another, and
effecting a confluence at a point 1 mile W of the hamlet
of Abcribyle. Duchray Water, rising, at an altitude of
3000 feet, on the N side of Ben Lomond (3192), 1| mile
E of the shore of the loch, winds 13j miles north-
north-eastward, south-eastward, and east-north-eastward
50
through the interior or along the borders of Buchanan,
Drymen, and Aberfoyle parishes, tor 6J miles tracing
the boundary between Stirling and Perth shires. The
Avondhu, rising, on the western border of Aberfoyle
parish, at an altitude of 1900 feet, flows 9 miles east-
south-eastward, and expands, in its progress, into Loch
CHON (1| x mile; 290 feet) and the famous Loch ARD
(2J miles x J mile; 103 feet). Both of the head-streams
traverse a grandly mountainous country, and abound in
imposing and romantic scenery. From their confluence,
80 feet above sea-level, the united stream winds east-
south-eastward to Stirling, through or along the borders
of the parishes of Aberfoyle, Drymen, Port of Monteith,
Kippen, Gargunnock, Kincardine, St Ninians, Lecropt,
and Logie, during greater part of this course forming
the boundary between Stirlingshire and Perthshire. At
Stirling the river, from the confluence of its head-streams,
has made a direct distance of about 18J miles, but mea-
sures 39 along the curves and meanderings of its bed.
It flows principally through low, flat, alluvial grounds,
but is overlooked everywhere, at near distances, by
picturesque hills, arid exhibits great wealth of scenery,
embracing the softly beautiful as well as the brilliant
and the grand. Two important and beautilul tributaries,
the ' arrowy ' TEITII and ALLAN Water, join the Forth
3g and 1 J miles above Stirling. At the junction of the
latter stream the Forth enters purely Stirlingshire terri-
ory, and winds on to near Cambus, when it lorms the
oundary between Stirling and Clackmannan shires,
nd about a mile from Kincardine constitutes thereafter
ie southern boundary of Fife; and while the direct
ne from Stirling to Alloa measures only 5g miles, the
windings of the river, popularly called the Links of
Forth, are 12jj miles long. The stream is flanked by
broad carse lands, of such value that, according to the
old rhyme,
Below Alloa the river becomes less remarkable for its
sinuosity of movement, and, losing partly ,its fresh-
water character, begins to expand slowly into a fine
estuary, reaching the German Ocean at a distance of
52 miles from Alloa. The Firth of Forth, as it is now
called, divides Clackmannanshire and File from Stirling-
shire, Linlithgowshire, Edinburghshirc, and Hadding-
tonshire; and has a width of i mile at Alloa, J mile at
Kincardine, and 2i miles just above Borrowstounness.
At Queensferry, in consequence of a peninsula on the
N side, the basin suddenly contracts to a width of 1
mile, and is crossed here by that stupendous railway
undertaking the FORTH BRIDGE (which see); but below
Queensferry it again expands to 5J miles at Granton
and Burntisland, and between Prestonpans and Leven
to a maximum width of 17 miles. The Firth again
contracts, between Dirleton and Elie Ness, to 8 miles;
and enters the ocean, between Fife Ness and the mouth
of the river Tyne, with a width of 19 miles. The
islands, with the exception of Inchgarvie and two or three
other rocky islets in the vicinity of Queensferry, are in
the wider parts of the Firth, comprising INCHCOLM,
CRAMOXD island, and INCHKEITH. The last, measuring
6j by 2 lurlongs, is crowned with a lighthouse, and in
1881 was rendered defensible by the erection of three
batteries with heavy guns. Half a dozen small islands
(FiDRA, CRAIGLEITH, etc.) lie off the Haddingtonshire
coast; while the entrance is flanked by the romantic
BASS Rock on the S and the Isle of MAY on the N.
The estuary in mid channel has a maximum depth ol
42 fathoms. Along the Fife shore the bed of the firth
slopes down rapidly to a considerable depth, 10 fathoms
being (ound at an average distance of li mile from laud.
A line drawn from Hound Point through Inch ilickrj
and Inchkeith to Fidra cuts off about one-third of tin
area to the south, which has scarcely a sounding of Id
fathoms or upwards. Off Musselburgh 10 fathoms i.-
only found at a distance of 9 miles. At the mouth of
the firth, almost from shore to shore, the channel i
over 10 fathoms deep. The deepest point in the firth is
in the narrows between North and South Quecusforry,
when for a length of nearly 2 miles there is a trough
more than 20 fathoms deep, at one point attaining the
maximum of 42 fathoms. The tides are so affected
by conflicting currents, by islands and shallows, and
by the irregularities of the shores, as to vary much
both in respect of velocity and time. The flowing tide,
over the sands of Leith, runs li knot an hour, and
appears to ilow for only four hours, while the ebbing
tide continues for eight hours. The tides on the N
shore, opposite these Roads, run from 3 to 3J knots an
hour, and have an equal duration in flow and in ebb.
The flowing tide, from Kinghorn Ness to the promontory
W of Aberdour, runs at the rate of 3J knots an hour;
through the contraction at Queensferry it runs at the
rate of 5 knots an hour, and, 6 miles above that con-
traction, at from 2 to 2J miles an hour. The ebb
tide, at about 6 miles above Queeusferry, runs at the
same rate as the flow tide; but through the contraction
at Queensferry it runs at the rate of 6 knots an hour;
and in Inverkeithing Bay, immediately E of that con-
traction, turns for two hours to the W at the rate of 1 J
knot an hour. The estuary presents safe roadsteads at
Elie Roads, Leitli Roads, Burntisland Roads, Inver-
keithing Bay, St Margaret's Hope immediately above
Queensferry, and various other localities. It has good
docks at Leith, Granton, Borrowstounness.Grangemouth,
and Burntisland; good harbours at Dunbar, Anstruther,
Cockenzie, and Fisherrow; and numerous harbours of
varying character and capacity along the N shore from
Crail to Alloa. The navigation was long regarded as
dangerous; but, though shoally in various localities,
and somewhat obstructed by sandbanks, it is now, with
the aid of lighthouses on the islands of May and Inch-
keith and of accurately drawn and minute charts, so
signally safe as rarely to be marked with a shipwnvk.
Numerous industrial works are on the shores, from Alloa
and Borrowstounness downwards; vast repositories of
coal, limestone, and ironstone are so near it, on both
shores and westward from its head, as to send down
much of their output to it for shipment; and all these,
along with the extensive and productive fisheries of
LEITH and ANSTRUTHER districts, attract large num-
bers of vessels of all sizes.
The basin of the Forth is estimated at 645 square
miles. The length of the river and its estuary, mea-
sured in a direct line from the Duchray's source on Ben
Lomond to the entrance, is only SO miles; but, follow-
ing the bends of river and estuary, 117i miles, viz.,
52J to Stirling, 12| thence to Alloa, and 52 thence to
the German Ocean. The chief tributaries above Alloa
are, on the right bank, Kelty Water, Boquhan Burn,
and Bannock Burn; on the left bank, Goodie Water, the
Teith, Allan Water, and the Devon ; and the chief
streams flowing into the estuary are, on the right side, the
Carron, the Avon, the Almond, the Water of Leith, and
the Esk; on the left side, the Leven. The river contains
salmon, grilse, sea-trout, trout, pike, perch, and eels; and
its salmon are large and delicate. Several good salmon
casts for the angler occur about the influx oi' the Teith;
but all the salmon fisheries below that point are held
strictly as private property, and are let under stringent
conditions. The estuary abounds with white fish of all
kinds; and large fleets of fishing-boats from Newhaven,
Fisherrow, Buckhavcn, Anstruther, and other places
procure abundant supplies for the daily markets of
neighbouring and district towns. Of late years the use
of steam trawlers has been introduced, and, while the
catch is thus increased, the older style of fishers allege
that the spawn and spawning beds arc injured by the
trawl nets. Herrings generally shoal into the Firth
once a year, and have in some years yielded a prodi-
gious produce; but they are esteemed in some respects
inferior in quality to the herrings of the western coast.
The extensive sand beds, together with immense quan-
tities of seaweed, are favourable to the deposit of the
spawn of fishes; and mussels, contributing so largely
to the support of the finny tribes, arc very abundant.
Oysters formerly lay in beds adjacent to Cramond and
Ferry
mails c
FORTH BRIDGE
Inch Mickery, as well as near Prestoupaus; but they
were over- fished, almost to comparative exhaustion; and
they are now inferior, both in quality and in size, to tha
oysters obtained in many other parts of the British
coasts.
An ancient ferry crosses the river at Queensferry, and
connects on the S side with a branch from the Edin-
burgh and Glasgow section of the North British railway
at Ratho station, and with a line to Dunfermline on the
N. A still more important ferry is that from Granton
to Burntisland, which, until the opening of the Forth
Bridge, formed the link between the southern and the
northern portions of the North British Railway system.
Both of the ferries named are in the hands of the North
British Railway Company, but have been largely super-
seded by the great bridge. In former times the Queen's
the line of the Great North Road, the
crossing here en route for Kinross, Perth, and the
North. The ferry between Leith or Newhaven and
Kirkcaldy or Pettycur has long since been abandoned,
as has also the 'Earl's Ferry,' from a place in Fife still
bearing that name, to the nearest point in East Lothian.
Many projects have been made to bridge the Forth or to
tunnel it, the latter proposal beingdescribed in several pam -
phlets published early in the present century. Although
there are, with the railway bridges, several structures now
spanning the Forth there, the bridge of Stirling was at
one time an important because almost solitary access to
the North. A bridge is known to have existed here six
centuries ago, and some remains of it, about J mile
above the existing 'old bridge,' are still, it is said, to be
seen. Below Stirling a bridge was erected (1882-83) by
the Alloa Railway Company, to connect with the South
Alloa Branch of the Caledonian railway. The main
feature of this bridge is a swing-opening by which the
river, at high water, remains navigable by steamers
and small vessels to Stirling as heretofore. Before the
Forth bridge undertaking was begun, several plans had
been drawn up for improving the crossing at Queens-
ferry and below. See article FORTH BRIDGE.
The Firth of Forth has played a not unimportant
part in the troublous history of Scotland, having been
visited by hostile fleets at various times from 83 A.I).
downwards. In 1549, the island of Inchkeith was sciwd
and fortified by the English under the Duke of Somer-
set, from wh<5m it was taken by the French commander,
then in alliance with the Scots. In 1567, an act was
passed for the demolition of the fort on Inchkeith, and
though this was not fully carried out (since Johnson and
Boswell found the fort in fair preservation in 1773), the
Firth for three centuries remained defenceless. At
the entrance to Leith harbour a Martello tower was
erected, and there is, nominally, a fort in that town,
but the former is disused, and both are inadequate for
defence against modern ordnance. After many years'
agitation, steps were in 1880-81 taken for the construc-
tion of three batteries on Inchkeith, and one on King-
horn Ness, which, mounted with heavy guns, completely
command the channels N and S of the island. Ord.
Sur., shs. 38, 39, 31, 32, 40, 33, 41, 1857-71. See
David M. Home's Estuary of lite Forth and adjoining
Vistrids rifirr.l rjcoliyimlhj (Edinb. 1871), and works
cited under FIFE and STIRLINGSHIRE.
Forth Bridge, a stupendous steel cantilever railway
bridge connecting the northern and southern shores of
the Firth of Forth at Queensferry. Before this under-
taking was designed several plans for improving the
crossing at this point and below it were drawn up. As
far back as 1818 it was proposed to span the Forth here
by a cast-iron suspension bridge 90 feet above high
water, the line of which was to begin at hiirh-tide mark
'near Newall's Inn,' to traverse the island of Garvie at a
point, and terminate at the Battery Rock on the north
shore. In 1851 Sir Thomas Bouch perfected the ' float-
ing railway ' between Granton and Burntisland, a plan
in which, by the use of adjustable loading apparatus
and of large flat steamers, the railway company was
enabled to carry goods trains over the ferry without
breaking bulk; and this system remained in operation
FORTH BRIDGE
for upwards of thirty years. In 1861 the same engineer
proposed
ferry in c
ised to extend the 'floating railway' idea to Queens-
in connection with a projected rail'
ilway from Edi
burgh to Perth. This plan not commending itself, three
years later he proposed his first design for bridging the
firth. The bridge was to be 3 miles long, crossing the
broader but shallower part of the river a mile above
Charleston, with a height of 125 feet above the river,
and five spans of 500 feet each in the fairway. But in
1873, after the Tay Bridge had been begun, the bolder
design of crossing at Queensferry, using the island of
Inchgarvio as the central support for two spans of 1600
feet each, was put forward by him. The plan involved
a double bridge, one for each set of rails. The two were
to be braced together by lateral diagonal stays. This
scheme was eagerly taken up, despite the fact that it
was to be partly on the suspension principle, and re-
quired piers of 600 feet high to bear the chains, thi:
elevation being about 100 feet abovi "
iructures. When the Tay Bri
ing against the Forth Suspeusi
) pronounced that the idea was given up.
being about 100 feet above the highest
~ - ' efell, however,
the feeling against the Forth Suspension Bridge became
ounced that the idea was given up. A conference
isting structu
ing s
feel
of engineers was held on the subject, and, after exhaus-
tive consideration, it was resolved that a steel cantilever
bridge, with central connecting girders, was the best, if
not the only possible solution of the problem. Fortified
by this unanimous and unqualified decision on the part of
the best engineering authorities, the Forth Bridge Kail-
way Company took the necessary steps to have the new
project carried into effect, and in 1882 obtained powers to
proceed with the plans of their chief engineers, Sir John
Fowler and Mr Baker. The Midland and East Coast
Railway Companies, along with the North British, in-
terposed their credit for the necessary financial obliga-
tions; the North British being responsible for one-half
of the four per cent, payable on the capital expenditure.
The cantilever principle is as old as the science of
engineering, but never before has it been applied on so
magnificent a scale. It is that of projecting brackets,
gradually extended, till they come near enough to be
connected by a central girder. The central or Inch-
garvie cantilever is balanced by having a girder to sup-
port at both of its extremities; whereas the south and
north cantilevers have at their shoreward ends about
1000 tons each of cast-iron ballast to counterbalance
the half weight of the connecting girder each has to
support at its other end. From each tower of tubes
the great brackets had to bo extended at an exactly
equal rate, that the poise might be preserved. Each
cantilever is in effect composed of two brackets an
ordinary and an inverted bracket, the former resting
more directly on the pier foundation, and the latter
suspended from the great steel tower.
To carry the tension parts of the cantilevers, it was
7H'ci'ss:iry that the yivut steel towers should lie 300 feet
in height. Each of the three great towers includes four
steel columns, 12 feet in diameter, and r.u-h of these
columns rests on its own foundation of solid masonry,
built from the rock or boulder clay, 70 feet in diameter
at the bottom and tapering to 49 feet at the top. The
foundations of the north and south cantilevers are 91
feet below high-water level, so that the total height of
the structure from its base is fully 450 feet. The foun-
dations of the central cantilever, at Inchgarvie, were cut
out of the hard trap rock to 72 feet below the surface of
the water. Two of the piers for the Fife cantilever were
constructed practically on shore, and other four were
erected without the aid of caissons; but the remaining six
had to be laid in deep water by means of caissons, 70 feet in
width and about 60 feet in height. These caissons were
made on shore, launched, towed to the spot where they
were wanted, and there ballasted till they sank to the
bottom. The floor of each caisson was 7 feet above
its lower or cutting edge, and below this floor the water
was expelled by means of compressed air, leaving a
working chamber 70 feet in diameter and 7 feet in
height, in which the work of excavation was carried on.
This working chamber communicated with the surface
by three shafts, closed with air-tight double doors or
FORTH BRIDGE
air-locks, on the principle of a canal lock. Two of these
shafts were used to bring up the excavated material,
and the third was for the use of the workmen and
officials. The working chamber was lighted by elec-
tricity; and when the caisson was at the bottom of the
foundations the pressure of air had to be maintained at
35 Ibs. to the square inch. Most of the men employed
at this part of the work were Italians who had acquired
full experience of similar employment while construct-
ing the foundations of the great new quays at Antwerp.
They used dynamite for blasting, and took refuge some
distance up the shaft when a shot had to be fired. To
work in the boulder clay, which proved too tough for
ordinary digging implements, Mr Arrol, the contractor,
invented for them diggers with hydraulic rams in their
hollow stems. When these diggers were placed against
the roof of the working chamber, the men had but to
turn on the hydraulic power, when the cutting part of
the implement went down into the clay with a force of
which human muscle is incapable. As the work went
on round the cutting edge of the caisson, it gradually
sank to the required depth; and when the foundation
was found to be satisfactory the whole of the interior
of the caisson was built full of solid masonry, for which
the caisson itself is left as a temporary covering. One
of the deep piers contains 20,000 tons of masonry. Into
the upper part of the piers are built strong steel ties, 24
feet deep, and fixed to secure anchors in the masonry.
By these ties the bed-plates are held down on the top
of the masonry. These plates bear the enormously strong
skew-backs, in which are combined the bases of all the
limbs of the cantilevers perpendicular, horizontal, and
diagonal, amounting to 50,000 tons of steel. It took
three years to lay the foundations, and, considering the
nature of the task, the time was considered short by
those competent to judge. They contain 120,000 cubic
yards of concrete and 400,000 cubic feet of granite.
The piers that serve as the bases of the great vertebral
steel columns are in pairs, 120 feet apart from east to
distance apart from the west at their base, but they
approach to within 33 feet of each other at the top.
This arrangement greatly enhances the stability of the
bridge and its power to resist wind pressure. The piers
of the Fife and of the Queensferry cantilevers are 150
feet apart from north to south; but those of the Inch-
garvie cantilever have been placed 270 feet apart,
because, the arms of the central cantilever being free,
a greater thrust- resisting base has been deemed necessary
for its support. Lengthwise the skew-backs, or boxes
that receive the bases of all the great columns, are joined
together by cylinders 12 feet in diameter; crosswise
they are bound together by lattice girders. On these
skew-backs all the thrusts, vertical and lateral, con-
nected with the weight of the bridge meet and counter-
balance each other. The construction of the great tulx
columns was first gone about on shore. The steel platef
of which they are composed had to be heated to a dul
red and bent by hydraulic pressure into the exact (
needed. The edges of every plate had to be carefulb
planed, and they were fitted round a frame which ha(
been prepared of the exact shape and dimensions of th.
great tube. The rivet holes were then all carefull-
drilled, and, after the tube had thus been completed
every plate was numbered and the whole taken to piece ;
for erection on its permanent site. The construction
of the cantilevers began in the early part of 188C.
Large temporary platforms for the workmen were use 1
in the first instance, and gradually raised, as necessary,
by hydraulic rams. When the work advanced,
served as the basis of its own scaffolding. Cran
rested on the rising vertical and extending horizont 1
members of the cantilever, making additions which, :i
their turn, became new supports for the cranes ai
starting points for further extension. Plates and oth
material, brought out in barges, were raised to the lev -1
of the viaduct by a crane stationed there. Golia 1
cranes lifted the plates into position, and held the;,
there till they had been securely riveted. The colmn i
TORTH AND CLYDE CANAL
at the Fife and Queensferry sides were completed to
their full height in the summer of 1887, less than half
a year after they had been commenced, and those of the
Iiidigarvie cantilever reached their full height shortly
after. In the summer of 1888 each of the first bays of
the cantilevers had been fixed; and in the summer of
1839 they had been so far finished that they were only
separated by the gaps left for the connecting girders.
Tlicse girders were built out gradually, on the same
principle as the cantilevers, one-half from each side, by
means of cranes gradually advanced for the purpose.
The completion of these girders was successfully accom-
plished on 14th November, 1889, and the bridge was
complete from South to North Queensferry.
The great 12 feet tubes are stiffened by internal dia-
phragms, and provided with man-holes to facilitate in-
spection, painting, and repairs. For the same purpose
they are traversed by internal steel ladders. The tubes
are strengthened as well as held in position by strong
struts and ties, which become lighter towards the ex-
tremity of the cantilever, where the end of the inter-
mediate connecting girder rests on a rocking column,
to allow for expansion and contraction of the bridge
under changes of temperature. By this arrangement
the rails are allowed to slip to and fro, if necessary, as
much as 18 inches on the whole bridge. The rails of
the permanent way, instead of being left a little apart
at their ends, as is usually the case, to allow for expan-
sion in hot weather, are constructed with tapered ends,
which overlap and can slip past one way or the other,
as expansion or contraction may require. Thus the jolt
so often felt in passing a joint of the rails in ti-uvrlliii-
will be avoided on the Forth Bridge. There is similar
provision made on the approach viaduct terminal piers
for any movement due to the elasticity of the cantilevers
under lateral wind pressure or by changes of tem-
perature; and the girders of the approach viaduct
each 336 feet long rest on a sliding bed-plate, which
surmounts each column, to allow for contraction and
expansion under changes of temperature. A space of
6 inches has been left between each girder for expansion,
though the greatest variation yet noted has been but 2
inches, on one of the hottest days of 1889. The rails
are 120 Ibs. per yard, 50 per cent stronger than the
strongest rails ordinarily in use. They rest on teak
sleepers, sunk in a longitudinal trough formed by the
upper members of the permanent way girder. The teak
sleepers rest on a wooden asphalted bed; and as the rails
are 1J inch below the top of the trough, no other guid-
ing rail is needed.
The bridge was formally inaugurated on 4th March,
1890, when the Prince of Wales, by turning the tap of a
hydraulic rivetter, clinched the last bolt, immediately
afterwards declaring the bridge open. At the luncheon
which followed, His Royal Highness intimated that Her
Majesty had been pleased to create Sir John Fowler,
chief engineer of the company, a Baronet; Mr Benj;i:nin
Baker a Knight Commander of the Order of St Michael
and St George; and Mr. William Arrol a Knight.
Forth and Clyde Canal or Great Canal, The, con-
structed to connect the Firths of Forth and Clyde, was
opened for traffic in 1790. The possibility of making a
short cut through this neck of Scotland was discussed' as
early as the reign of Charles II., and the plan was
revived without success in 1723 and 1701. In 176(5 some
Glasgow merchants began a subscription of 30,000 for
a canal 4 feet deep and 24 broad, but parliament refused
to sanction the scheme, owing to the smallness of thesum,
which had been fully subscribed in two days after the
proposal. Another combination wasmadc, and a new sub-
scription for 150,000 set on foot. In 1767 parliament
gave the required permission for the incorporation of
' The Company of Proprietors of the Forth and Clyde
Navigation,' the stock to consist of 1500 shares of 100
each, with liberty to borrow 50,000. Work was begun
in 1768 under the superintendence of Mr. Smeaton, the
first sod being cut by Sir Lawrence Dundas on 10 July.
In July 1775 the canal was completed up to Stocking-
field, at which point a branch to Glasgow was con-
FOBTH AND CLYDE CANAL
structed and was carried to Hamilton Hill near that
city, where a basin and storehouses were made. By
this time all the capital and the loan had been spent,
as well as the income from other sources. The revenue
from the part then opened was only 4000, and the pros-
pects were gloomy all round, the shares falling to half
their original price. In 1784 assistance was given by
the Government, who handed 50,000 of the revenue
from the forfeited estates of the Jacobites to the corpora-
tion. This was not a gift, for the Government stipu-
lated that the Crown should draw the ordinary dividend
for that sum. In July 1786 the cutting of the canal
was resumed under the superintendence of Mr Robert
Whitworth, and by July 1790 it was opened from sea
to sea. The Hamilton Hill basin was found too small,
and the large depot at Port Dundas was constructed to
answer the needs of Glasgow. Here a junction was
afterwards effected with the MONKLAND CANAL, and
the two were amalgamated in 1846. Although the
canal was planned to be only 7 feet deep, its depth was
practically 10. Its length was 38| miles 35 miles
direct between the Forth and Clyde, 2J miles of the
branch to Port Dundas, and a mile of the continuation
to the Monkland Canal. The greatest height of the
canal above the sea is 156 feet, and this is attained by
means of twenty locks on the eastern and nineteen on
the western sides, a difference due to the different water-
level of the two rivers. The locks are each 74 feet long
and 20 broad, with a rise of 8 feet. They admit the
passage of vessels of 68 feet keel, 19 feet beam, and 8i
feet draught of water. The average breadth of the
canal on the surface is 56 feet, and at the bottom 27 feet.
Above thirty bridges span the canal, and it in turn
crosses about forty aqueducts, the largest of which is
that over the Kelvin at Maryhill, consisting of four
arches 83 feet high, which convey the waterway across
a dell 400 feet wide. This work was begun in June
1787, and completed in April 1791, at a cost of 8500.
Water for the canal is supplied from eight reservoirs,
covering a space of 721 acres.
The canal begins, at the E end, about a mile up the
river Carron at Grangemouth. Hence it goes south-
westward to Grahamston and Bainsford, where a basin
was made for the Carron Company's traffic. It then
continues in the same direction to Camelon, and then
trends to the W to Lock 16, where it is joined by
the UNION CANAL from Edinburgh. Thence to Wind-
ford Loch, near Castlecary (where it attains its greatest
elevation), it goes in a westerly and south-westerly
direction. As it approaches the Kelvin viaduct the
locks become numerous, and the scenery through which
the canal passes is picturesque and romantic. Re-enter-
ing Dumbartonshire, it proceeds about 5 miles till it
is joined by a junction canal, extending to the Clyde
opposite the month of the Cart, formed in 1839 for the
benefit of Paisley, but not now used. For 3J miles the
Forth and Clyde navigation follows the course of the
Clyde in a north-westerly direction, finally joining the
river at Bowling Bay, where a harbour and wharves
were constructed at a cost of 35,000.
Considerable scientific and historical interest attaches
to the Forth and Clyde Canal as the scene of early
early
periments in steam navigation. After Mr Patrick
Symingt
proved the feasibility of using steam on the water, they
and Mr Symi
navigatio
ngton had,
on Dalswinton Loch,
to Edinburgh, and had a boat of 30 tons burden
constructed at Carron. In November 1789 this vessel
was launched on the Forth and Clyde Canal. In presence
of hundreds of people the vessel started, and attained a
speed of 6 miles an hour. Ten years later Lord Dundas
desired Symington to construct a steamer to be used as
a tug on the canal, and in March 1802 the Charlotte
Dundas towed two laden barges of 70 tons burden each
a distance of 19^ miles with great ease. In consequence
of the success of this experiment, a proposal was made
to the proprietors to use steam tugs instead of horse
power, but it was rejected on the ground that the wash
from the paddles would destroy the banks of the canal.
In September 1839 another successful experiment in
FORTH AND CLYDE RAILWAY
the use of steam was made on the canal. This time the
power was proposed to be supplied by an engine running
along the bank; but as the application of the system to
the whole canal would have been very costly, it was
abandoned. Since then, however, screw -propelled
steamers have been largely introduced. In 1867 the
joint canals were taken over by the Caledonian Railway
Company, when they were valued at 1,141,333.
Forth and Clyde Railway. See NORTH BRITISH
RAILWAY.
Forthar, a place with extensive lime-works in Kettle
parish, Fife, 2 miles S by W of Kettle village. The
limestone at it contains 98 per cent, of pure lime; and
the working of it gives permanent employment to a
great number of men.
Forthar Castle, Forfarshire. See FOKTER.
Forthill, an eminence in Monifieth parish, Forfarshire,
4 mile NW of Broughty Castle. A fort, erected on
it in 1548 as a flanking post of the English garrison in
Broughty Castle, was dismantled in 1550; left remains
12 feet high till 1782; and is now completely obliter-
ated. A camp was formed on the same eminence fully
i mile E of the fort, and has left slight traces of its
entrenchments.
Forthie Water, a rivulet of Kincardineshire, rising in
the W of Dunnottar parish, and winding 4 miles
south-westward, chiefly along the mutual boundary of
(ilenbervie and Arbuthnott, till it falls into Bervie
Water 1 mile S of Drumlithie. Ord. Sur., shs. 67, 66,
1871.
Forth Iron-works. See CAP. NOCK and OAKLEY.
Fortingall, a hamlet and a large highland parish of
Atholc and Breadalbane districts, NW Perthshire. The
hamlet stands, 400 feet above sea-level, 3 furlongs N of
the left bank of the Lyon, 19 mile N of the lower waters
of Loch Tay, and 8 miles W by S of Aberfeldy, under
which it has a post office. There is a good hotel. Fairs
are held here on 9 August, o.s., and 6 and 7 Dec., but
when these dates fall on Saturday, Sunday, or Monday,
then on Tuesday following.
The parish contains also Kivi.oni RANNOCH village,
18 miles NNW of Fortingall by road, but only 8J as
the crow flies, and Innerwick hamlet, 10 J miles W ;
and until 1891 it comprised two detached portions. In
that year the Boundary Commissioners rearranged the
bounds of the parish, and added considerably to its
area. There were transferred to it so much of Kenmore
parish, on the north of Drummond Hill, so much of the
Kenknock detached portion of the same parish, and
so much of the detached parts of Vi'eem parish, as lay
in the basin of the river Lyon. The addition from the
parish of Weem hud the effect of uniting the Loch Lyon
detached portion of Fortingall with the main portion.
The other (Bollracks) detached portion of Fortingall,
however, comprising 4020 acres, was transferred to the
parish of Dull. There were also transferred to Fortin-
gall two detached portions of Logierait parish the one,
situated on the south side of Loch Rannoch, containing
9939 acres ; and the other, situated near Lochgarry
House, containing 4US1 acres. On the northern bound-
ary of the latter detached portion was an area marked
on the Ordnance Survey maps as common to Blair-Athole,
Fortingall, and Logierait; this area has been divided
between Blair-Athole and Fortingall, the burn Allt
Sleibh being the dividing line, and the part south of
this being given to Fortingall. The parish is bounded
NE by Blair-Athole, E by Dull, S by Kenmore and
Killin, W by Glenorchy and Lismore in Argyllshire,
NW and N by Kilmonivaig and Lai;g:in in Inverness-
shire. Its utmost length, from E to W, is 27 miles;
and its utmost breadth, from N to S, is 22 miles. In
the south-western portion of the parish the river LYON
rises close to the Argyllshire border at 2400 feet above
sea-level, and runs 4 miles northward to Loch Lyon
(IJx J mile; 1100 feet), after leaving which it has an
east-by-northerly course through the entire length of
the southern or longest part of the parish, until it enters
Dull, at the junction of the Keltney, just previous to
joining the Tay. Thus Fortingall claims all but 2J
miles of its entire course (36 miles), during which its
chief affluent is KELTNEY Burn, rising at 2700 feet upon
Cam Mairg, and hurrying 5| miles east-by-northward
through the interior, then 3i south-south-eastward along
the boundary with Dull. Loch Laidon or LYDOCH (5?
miles x i mile ; 924 feet), on desolate Rannoch Muir,
belongs partly to Glenorchy, but mainly to Fortingall.
From it the GAUIR winds 7 miles eastward to the head
of Loch RANNOCH (9| miles x 5i to 9 furl. ; 668 feet).
The river TUMMEL, issuing from the foot of Loch Rau-
noch, has here an eastward course of 6J miles; and to
Loch Rannoch, towards its head, the EKICUT runs 5jj
miles south-south-eastward out of Loch Ericht (1153
feet), whose lower 7 miles are partly in Laggan but
chiefly in Fortingall. Such, broadly, are the drainage
features of this parish, which, lying all within the basin
of the Tay, at the very heart of the Grampians, offers
rich variety of highland landscape soft valley and
rugged glen, jagged ridge and soaring summit, with,
westwards, mile on mile of moorland plateau. Along
the Tummel the surface sinks to 600, along the Lyon to
350 feet above sea-level; and from E to W the prin-
cip.'d heights to the N of the Tummel, Loch Raunoch,
the Gauir, and Loch Laidon, are BEN MIIOLACH (2758
feet), Stob an Aonaich Mhoir (2805), *Ben Chumhann
(2962), BEX PHARLAGAIN (2836), "SgurGaibhre (3128),
*Carn Dearg (3084), and *CKUACH (2420); between Loch
Rannoch and the Lyon, Meall Crumach (2217), conical
SCHIEHALLION (3547), CARN MAIRG (3419), Cam Gorm
(3370), Ben Meggernie (2158), Garbh Mheall (3000), and
Sim lid an Lochain (3144); to the S of the Lyon *Meall
Luaidhe (2558), *Ben nan Oighreag (2978), and *Meall
Ghaordie (3407), where asterisks mark those summits
that culminate right on the confines of the parish. In
the south-western detached portion, around Loch Lyon,
rise Meall Daill (2858), and BEN CREACHAN (3540),
*BEN ACHALLADER (3399), BEN VANNOCH (3125), *BEN-
A-CIIAISTEIL (2897), *Creag Mhor (3305), and Ben
Heasgarnich (3530). The Moor of Rannoch lies, in
large measure, upon granite ; elsewhere the rocks are
principally quartzose, of Silurian age. Clay slate, of
fissile character, appears in a hill above Fortingall
hamlet and on the eastern side of Schiehallion. Good
limestone is plentiful in the E ; and several veins of
marble, of varied hues, occur in different parts. Rock
crystals, spars, and pebbles of great variety and bril-
liancy are often found among the mountains; and a vein
of lead ore in Glenlyon, seemingly of considerable rich-
ness, was worked for some time about the beginning of
last century. The soil of the level strips along the vales
is generally gravelly and dry; on the skirts and lower
slopes of the hills, though cold, yields good enough pas-
turage; and on the higher acclivities is lor the most part
bleak and barren moor. Very little of the land is arable,
an enormous proportion being either sheep-walk, grouse-
moor, or deer-forest. Still, great improvements have
been made in the reclamation and enclosing of land,
and in farm-buildings. Chief antiquities are an ancient
Caledonian stone circle, near the parish church; a Roman
camp between the hamlet and the Lyon, by Skene re-
garded as an outpost of the Emperor Severus beyond
the Tay (208 A.D.); traces of fourteen wide circular
forts; and the striking ruin of Garth Castle. This is
separately noticed, as also are the chief mansions Glen-
lyon House, Garth House, and Chesthill, near Fortin-
gall hamlet; Meggernie Castle, above Innerwick; Rau-
noch Lodge, Finnart Lodge, aud Croiscrag, at or towards
the head of Loch Rannoch; and Dalchosnie, Dun Alas-
tair, and Innerhadden, near Kinloch Raunoch. In the
t yresbytery of Weem and synod of Perth and Stirling,
this parish is ecclesiastically divided into Fortingall
proper, Innerwick or Glenlyon, and Kinloch Rannoch
the first a living worth 183. Its church, at Fortingall
hamlet, is a venerable building, containing 376 sittings;
and in the churchyard, protected by iron rails, is the
shattered torso of the famous yew-tree, supposed to be
fully 3000 years old 'probably the oldest authentic
specimen of vegetation in Europe.' In Pennant's day
(1772) it measured no less than 56 feet in girth, but now
there are only two fragments and a part of the shell.
These fragments still put forth branches and leaves, and
outside the enclosure is a vigorous scion, 36 feet high,
and fully 150 years old. A Free church stands ou the
same hank of the Lyon, J mile E of the hamlet; and a
public school, with accommodation for 100 children,
has an average attendance of 59, and a grant of 74, 2s.
Other churches and schools are noticed under GLENLYON
and KINLOCH RANXOCH. Pop. of civil parish (1801)
3875, (1831) 3067, (1861) 2181, (1871) 1766, (1881) 1690,
(1891) 1610, of whom 1131 were Gaelic-speaking; of
ecclesiastical parish (1871) 700, (1881) B16, (1891) 527;
of registration district (1881) 568, (1891) 773. Orel.
SUT., shs. 55, 54, 46, 47, 1869-73.
Fortrose, a royal and parliamentary burgh in the
parisli of Rosemarkie, Ross-shire, is situated on the
N W side of the inner Moray Firth, at the north-eastern
extremity of the Black Isle Rock, nearly opposite Fort
George, 8J miles S by E of Invergordon Ferry, 9 SSW
of Cromarty, and 10-J NNE of Inverness, under which
it has a post oilice, with money order, savings Innk, and
telegraph departments. It is the terminus of the Black
Isle section of the Highland railway, branching off at
Muir of Ord station. Fortrose consists of two towns,
CHANONRY and ROHEMARKIE, 4 mile distant from each
other, and first politically united under James II. in
1455, when they were constituted a free burgh in favour
of the Bishop of Ross. The burgh lapsed to the Crown
after the Reformation, but in 1590 Chanonry was enfran-
chised; and in 1592 the towns were re-united under the
title of the royal burgh of Fortross, afterwards softened
into the present name Fortrose. Chanonry Point, a
long tongue of land, covered with fine links, and edged
with sandy beach, which stretches into the sea between
the towns, has suggested an etymology for the name,
meaning ' fort of the peninsula;' other authorities ex-
plain it as 'strong fort." A lighthouse of the second
class was built in 1846 at the extremity of this point,
whence also there is a ferry (1 mile broad) to Fort George
and the Inverness coast. Fortrose (or at least one of its
component parts) early appears in history as an eccle-
siastical seat. Lugadius or Moluog, an abbot and bishop
of Lismore, who died in 577, founded a Columban mon-
astery in Rosemarkie. About the beginning of the 8th
century, Albanus Kiritinus, surnamed Bonifacius, wh
Church,
16, says
seems to have been a bishop of the Irish-Ro
named Curitan, came to Scotland; and
Wyuton,
' In Ros lie fowndyd Kosmarkyne,'
dedicating his church to St Peter. When David I. came
to the throne in 1124 he founded the bishopric of Ross,
and placed the diocesan seat at Rosmarkyn or Rosemarkie.
The presence of an educated clergy raised the place to a
}\\"\\ decree of culture; and famous schools of divinity
and law flourished under the shadow of the cathedral.
Down so late even as the time of Cromwell the little
town enjoyed a considerable amountof general prosperity.
Now, however, Fortrose has little or no trade; and its
connection with the outer world is chiefly maintained
through the summer visitors who are annually attracted
by the beautii'ul situation of the town, its picturesque
neighbourhood, its fine links, and its facilities for sea-
bathing. New houses have recently begun to spring up
for the better accommodation of these visitors. Its
most interesting edifice is the ruined cathedral dedi-
cated to SS. Peter and Bonifacius, situated within a
wide; grassy enclosure in the centre of the town. The
sole remains now are the S aisle of the chancel and nave,
and a detached chapter-house; and an old bell is also
preserved, dated 1460. When perfect the cathedral
was a handsome red sandstone building, presenting a
beautiful specimen of the pure Early Decorated style,
and dating from about the beginning of the 14th cen-
tury. Its total length was 120 feet; and it comprised a
nave of 4 bays, with aisles 14 feet wide, and round-
headed windows; a choir, with aisles, Lady-chapel,
west-tower, quasi-transept, rood-turret, and, to the NE,
ulted chapter-house over a crypt. The greater part
le of the former bishop's
of the cathedral and the whole
residence were removed by Oliver Cromwell to provide
building material for his fort at Inverness. Within the
precincts of the cathedral stood the various residences
of the high officials of the chapter, the archdeacon's
house, the rectory of Kirkmichael, and the manses of
the parochial charges of Cullicuddeu, Lemlair, Rosskeen,
Alness, Kiltearn, Con tin, Kilmuir, West Kilmuir, Kin-
rdine, Logic, Obstill, and St Katherine's; but of these
i vestiges remain. In Jan. 1880 a hoard of 1100 silver
ins of Robert III. was discovered, buried in the cathe-
dral green, halfway between the sites of Kiltearn manse
and of the ancient tumulus (now levelled) known as the
' Holeridge. ' A large Volunteer hall, capable of seating
400 persons, was erected in the town in 1881. Fortrose
is the seat of the presbytery of Chauonry. It contains
two Established churches. Rosemarkie parish church
(1821; 800 sittings) is said to occupy the site of an
ancient church built by, and dedicated to, St Bonifacius;
Fortrose church from a chapel of ease was raised to quoad
sacra status in 1873. The Free church is a tasteful
edifice in the Pointed style. The Episcopalian church
of St Andrew was built in 1812 at a cost of about 1100,
and was renovated in 1891. It is Gothic in style, and
looks well from the sea. There is also a Baptist chapel
(1806) in the town. The historian, Sir James Mackin-
tosh (1765-1832), who was born at ALDOUIUE, was edu-
cated at Fortrose from 1775 to 1780. The Academy,
which olfers a very good secondary education, was founded
in 1791. By a scheme under the Educational Endow-
ments (Scotland) Act, 1882, approved on 28th Novem-
ber, 1887, the Academy was transferred to and vested
in the School Board of the parish of Rosemarkie as the
governing body thereof. Among other provisions 6
scholars are to be educated free. The Academy, Rose-
markie Public, and Fortrose Infant schools, with respec-
tive accommodation for 150, 130, and 50 children, have
an average attendance of 117, 74, and 49, and grants
of 168, 18s. 6d., 71, 5s., and 41, 8s. 6d. Science
classes are conducted in Fortrose and Rosemarkie. The
Mechanics' Institute possesses an excellent library and
a reading-room. The town contains a branch of the
Caledonian bank, several insurance agencies, a hotel,
a combination poorhousc, golf and curling clubs, and a
horticultural society. The Black Isle Farmers' Society
meets here and at Munlochy. The Black Isle Steam
and Fortrose twice a week during winter and spring, and
daily during summer and autumn. The harbour is safe
and convenient, and was thoroughly repaired in 1881;
and at the same date a new wooden pier, about 250 yards
long, was erected, at a cost of 3000. A red light
was erected on the pier in 1881. There are markets at
Fortrose for cattle, grain, and farm produce every
month, on the Monday preceding the Beauly market,
except in April and May, when the dates arc respec-
tively the first Wednesday of the month and the Mon-
day before Beauly; and in June, besides the Monday
before Beauly, on the third Wednesday. Hiring markets
are combined with the above in August and November.
Through the generosity of Mr Fletcher of Rosehaugh a
water supply was introduced in 1893 to the burgh, and
also to the village of Avoch, on easy terms. The water
comes from a spring on the Rosehaugh estate about
5 miles distant, which is calculated to give 60 gallons
per head per day. The reservoir, situated a little above
i:i)seh;uigli mansion house, holds 250,000 gallons, and
the whole undertaking cost about 5000.
The burgh has an independent revenue, besides enjoy-
ing the benefit of various charitable mortifications, .so
that the rate of taxation is low. Under the Burgh
Police Act 1892, which came into force May 15, 1893,
it is governed by 9 commissioners, including a provost
and 2 bailies, the sheriff-substitute of Dingwall holds
quarterly circuit small-debt courts at Fortrose; and
a justice of peace court is held on the first Wednesday
of each month. With INVERNESS, Forres, and Nairn,
Fortrose returns a member to parliament, its parlia-
mentary constituency numbering 157, and its municipal
225, in 1896, when the annual value of real property
FOKT-WILLIAM
within the burgh amounted to 4127. its corporation
revenue being 400. Pop. (1821) 932, (1841) 1082,
(1851) 1148, (1861) 928, (1871) 911, (1881) 874, (1891)
871 ; of royal burgh beyond the parliamentary limits
Seal of Fort
(1881) 117, (1891) 109; of Fortrose quoad sacra parish
(1881) 492, (1891) 503. Ord. Sur., sh. 84, 1876. See
the Rev. J. II. Neale's Ecclesiological Notes on lloss
(Lond. 1848), and A. H. Scott's Illustrations of Fortrose
Cathedral (Edinb. Architect. Assoc., 1873).
Fort-William. See WILLIAM, Four.
Foss, a hamlet and a quoad sacra parish in Dull
parish, Perthshire. The hamlet stands near the right
bank of the river Tummel, H mile WSW of the head of
Loch Tummel, and 12 miles W of Pitlochry, under which
it has a post odice. Foss House, J mile nearer the loch,
is a seat of Sir Robt. Menzies, Bart. of CASTLE-MENZIES.
The parish, constituted by ecclesiastical authority in
1830, by civil authority in 1845, is in the presbytery of
Weem and synod of Perth and Stirling; its minister's
stipend is 120. Pop. (1871) 270, (IbSl) 226, (1891)
210. Ord. Sur., sh. 55, 1809.
Fossoway, a parish until 1891 chiefly in Perthshire,
but partly in Kinross-shire, containing the villages of
BLAIRINGONE, CEOOK OF DEVON, and CARNBO, and
comprising the ancient parishes of Fossoway and Tullic-
bole, united about 1614. The lioundary Commissioners,
in the year mentioned, transferred to the Perthshire
parish of Glendevon that portion of Fossoway lying to
t of the Glendey Burn and of the road Vailing
the
from Muckart to Dunning.
reduced, was then placed
Very irrcgulai
Fossoway parish,
ely in the cou
ed entirely in the county of Kill-
n outline, it is bounded N by
Dunning, NE by Orwell, E by Kinross, SE by Cleish,
S by Saline in Fife, SW by Clackmannan and Dollar in
Clackmannanshire, and W by Muckart and Glendevon.
On the Glendevon and Muckart border, the 'crystal
DEVON ' winds south-eastward and west-sonth-weshvai.l,
from the junction of the Glendey Burn to near Pitgobcr.
During this course it exhibits the finest of its famous
scenery, described in our articles Devil's Mill, Rumbling-
Bridge, and Caldron Linn. Other chief streams are
Gairney Water and South Queich Water, both streams
running to Loch Leven. Perennial springs of pure water
are everywhere abundant; a petrifying spring is on the
lands of Dcvonshaw; and a medicinal spring, erroneously
known as Dollar Water, is on the lands of Blairingone.
The surface declines along the Devon to close on 100
feet above sea-level, and S of Crook of Devon it, though
undulating, nowhere much exceeds 600 feet; but north-
wards it rises to 734 feet near Knockintinny, 1496 at
Lendrick Hill, 1134 at Cloon, 1573 at Mellock Hill, and
1621 at Innerdouny Hill summits these of the Ochils.
The rocks are partly eruptive, partly carboniferous.
Trap and sandstone are quarried in several places; coal
and ironstone has been worked, and limestone occurs in
connection with both, whilst copper ore, not rich enough
to repay the cost of working, is found near Rumbling-
Bridge. The soils are variously clayey, loamy, gravelly,
FOULDEN
and mossy; and some are fertile, others very inferior.
ALDIE and Tullibole castles are interesting and pro-
minent objects; mansions are Arndean, Devonshaw,
Fossoway Lodge, and Glen Tower; and an old circular
min on the lands of Aldie, an oblong moated mound on
the barony of Coldrain, the Callow Knowe adjacent to
Crook of Devon village, and the Monk's Grave between
the lands of Gartwhinean and those of Pitfar, are chief
antiquities. Giving off a portion to the quoad sacra
parish of Blairingone, this parish is in the presbytery of
Kinross and synod of Fife; the living is worth 170.
The parish church, near Crook of Devon village, was
built in 1806, and an organ was introduced in 1892.
There is also a Free church of Fossoway; a post office,
with money order, savings bank, and telegraph depart-
ments; and two public schools, Carnbo and Fossoway,
with respective accommodation for 88 and 170 children
have an average attendance of 35 and 83, and grants
49, 4s. Cd. and 103, 2s. 6d. Pop. (1801) 1312,
(1831) 1576, (1841) 1724, (1861) 1584, (1871) 1461, (1881)
of 4
1267, (1891) 1053; of ecclesiastical parish (1891) 785.
Ord. Sur., shs. 40, 39, 1867-69.
Fothringham, a Scottish Baronial mansion of 1859,
designed by the late David Bryce, in Inverarity parish,
Forfarshire, at the southern base of wooded Fothringham
Hill (800 feet), 6 miles S by E of Forlar. It is a seat of
Walter Thomas James S. Steuart-Fothringham, Esq.
of POWRIE, Fothringham, and TEALING (b. 1862; sue.
1864), whose ancestor settled in Forfarshire in the latter
half of the 14th century. Ord. Sur., sh. 57, 1868.
Foudland, an upland tract in Forgue, Insch, and
Culsalmond parishes, Aberdeenshire. Flanking the upper
basin of the Ury, and extending E and W, it rises to n
maximum altitude of 1529 feet above sea-level, and
has in main degree a bleak moorish surface. Slates
of clear light blue colour and excellent quality abound
in the Insch part of it; were long quarried to the
amount of nearly a million pieces a year, chiefly for
the market of Aberdeen; but ceased to be in high
request, principally in consequence of the greater cheap-
ness of sea-borne slates from the quarries of Easdale in
Argyllshire. Ord. Sur., sh. 86, 1876.
Foula. See FOWLA.
Foulden, a village and a parish in the eastern part
of Merse district, Berwickshire. The village stands 1
mile to the N of Whitadder Water, and 5J miles S of
Ayton station, 4 E by S of Chirnside, and" 5 WNW of
Berwick-upon-Twecd, under which it has a post office.
A pretty little place, it once was a burgh of barony and
a place of considerable size and note, and had its Border
peel-tower, whilst its church, on 23 March 1587, was the
meeting-place of Elizabeth's commissioners with those
of James VI. , to vindicate the execution of Queen Mary.
The parish is bounded N by Ayton, E and SE by
Mordington, S by Hutton, and W by Chirnside. Its
utmost length, from E to W, is 2^ miles; its utmost
breadth, from N to S, is 2| miles; and its area is 3298
acres, of which 20 are water. WHITADDEK Water winds
24 miles east-by-southward between steep banks along
all the southern border, and receives three little burns
from this parish, one of which traces most of the
boundary with Mordington. The surface declines at
the SE corner to less than 100 feet above sea-level,
thence rising to 389 feet near Blinkbonny, 461 near
Mosspark, 421 near St Johns, and 642 at Greenfield-
heights that command a wide and magnificent view ot
Flodden and other famous historic scenes. The rocks
are mainly Devonian; and the soil ranges from stony
clay in the S to loamy towards the centre, and light and
moorish in the N. Rather more than one-twelfth of the
entire area is under wood, chiefly in the central dis-
trict; one-ninth is natural pasture; and all the rest is in
tillage. Foulden House, to the E of the village, is the
seat of the chief proprietor. Another mansion is Nun-
lands House, 4 mile N of the village. Foulden is in
the presbytery of Chirnside and synod of Merse and
Teviotdale; the living is worth 193. The church was
built in 1786; and a public school, with accommoda-
m for 72 children, has an average attendance o!
FOULIS CASTLE
46, and a want of 42. 12s. 6d. Pop. (1801) 393, (1831)
424, (1861) 431, (1871) 425, (1881) 393, (1891) 351.
Ord. Sur., sh. 34, 1864.
Foulis Castle, a mansion in Kiltearn parish, Ross-
shire, standing j mile NW of, and 200 feet above, the
Cromarty Firth, close to whose shore is Foulis station
on the Highland railway, 2 miles SSW of Evanton
or Novar, and 4J NNE of Dingwall. A splendid pile,
with beautiful grounds, it is the seat of Sir Hector
Munro, eleventh Bart, since 1634 (b. 1849; sue. 1888),
the chief of the clan Munro. The Foulis estate has been
held by the Munroes since early in the 12th century, on
the tenure of furnishing a snowball, if required, at mid-
summer. They fought at Bannockburn, Halidon Hill,
Harlaw, Pinkie, Fontcnoy, and FALKIRK; and Robert
Munro, the eighteenth or ' Black ' Baron, with 700 men
from his own estate, served under the ' Immortal ' Gus-
tavus, and died of a wound at Ulm in 1633. The
Munroes' slogan is ' Castle Foulis in flames.' Ord. Sur.,
sh. 93, 1881.
Foulshiels, a place in Selkirk parish, Selkirkshire, on
the left bank of Yarrow Water, opposite Newark Castle,
and 3| miles W by N of Selkirk town. A farmhouse
(now ruinous) hr re was the birthplace of the African
traveller Mungo Park (1771-1805), and the place of his
residence on the eve of his second and fatal expedition.
Ord. Sur., sh. 25, 1865.
Fountainbleau. See DUMFRIES.
Fountainhall, the seat of Sir Thomas N. Dick-Lauder,
Bart., in Pencaitland parish, Haddingtonshire, li mile
SW of Pencaitland village, and 5 miles SSE of Tranent.
The lands of Fountainhall were acquired by Sir John
Lander, who in 1688 was created a baronet of Nova
Scotia, and whose ancestors had been lairds of the Bass
Rock from the 13th to the 16th century. His son, Sir
John (1646-1722), an eminent lawyer and statesman,
was appointed a lord of Session in 1689, with the title
of Lord Fountainhall. He is remembered by his Deci-
sions, as is his fourth descendant, Sir Thomas Dick-
Lauder (1784-1848), by his fictions and other writings.
The present and ninth baronet is Sir Thomas North
Dick-Lauder (b. 1846; sue. 1867). Ore?. Sur., sh. 33,
1863. See Sir T. Dick-Lander's Scottish llicers (Ediub.
1874).
Fountainhall, a hamlet in Stow parish, SE Edin-
burghshire, on the right bank of Gala Water, with a
station on the North British railway, 4J miles NN\V of
Stow village, under which it has a post office.
Founnan Hill. See FOREMAN.
Founnerkland, a place in Holywood parish, Dum-
friesshire, 5 miles WNW of Dumfries. A small tower
here was built in 1590.
Founnilehouse, a village in Tealing parish, Forfar-
shire, 4 miles N by E of Dundee.
Foveran, a coast parish of E Aberdcenshire, contain-
ing the seaport village of NEWBURGH, which stands at
the right side of the Ythan's embouchure, 5 miles SE
of Ellon station, 6J E by N of Udny station on the
western border, and 13J NNE of Aberdeen, under which
it has a post office, with money order, savings bank, and
telegraph departments, and with which it communicates
bycoach. ItisboundedNbyLogie-Buchan.NEliySl.un-i.
E by the German Ocean, S by Belhclvie, and W and NW
by Udny. Its utmost length, from E to W, is 6J miles;
its greatest breadth is 3 miles; and its area is 10,844
acres, of which 248j are foreshore, and 63 water. The
YTUAN, in places here J mile broad at high water, flows
1 J mile south-south-eastward between Foveran and Slains
to its bar-obstructed mouth in the German Ocean, and
at Newburgh is joined by Foveran Burn, which, rising
near Tillery, runs 7J miles through the interior; whilst
another of its tributaries, Tarty Burn, traces most of
the Udny border. The coast-line, 1J mile long, is low
and sandy; and from it the surface rises gently inland
to 300 feet at Billhead of Ardo, 78 at the parish church,
212 near Davieshill, and 400 at the western border near
Edgehill. The principal rocks are trap, gneiss, mica
slate, and conglomerate; and the soil varies from a
sandy loam to a rich clay loam and a strong clay. The
FOWLIS-EASTER
parish is poorly wooded, its eastern exposure stunting
what trees there are; and nearly all the land is devoted
to agriculture, large tracts of waste having been drained
and enclosed about the beginning of the nineteenth cen-
tury. The castle of Knockhall, 1 mile NNW of New-
burgh, built by the Udny family in 1565, was captured
by the Covenanters under the Earl Marischal and the
Earl of Errol in 1639; and, accidentally burned in 1734,
still stands in a. ruinous state. Of Foveran Castle, near
Foveran House, not a vestige remains. The oldest part
bore the name of Turing's Tower, after its first pos-
sessors, from whom it passed, about the middle of the
17th century, to a branch of the Forbeses of Tolqnhoun.
A rhyme, ascribed to Thomas of Ercildoune, foretold
' When Turing's Tower falls to the land,
Gladsrouir shall be near at hand;
When Turing's Tower falls to the sea,
' Gladsmnir the next year shall be.'
The tower did fall not long before 1720, and in 1745
the Highlanders were for giving the name of Gladsmuir
to their victory at Prestonpans (Chambers's Popular
j;/i>/mj\';, p. 219, ed. 1870). An ancient buryin "-ground
near the village of Newburgh retains a fragment of the
' Red Chapel of Buchan,' or Chapel of the Holy Rood.
Part of this -building is now the burial-place of the
Udny family. Foveran House, 1 mile SSW of New-
burgh, is an old mansion; whilst Tillery, in the W of
the parish, 1J mile SSE of Udny station, is a more
recent Grecian edifice. Foveran is in the presbytery
of Ellon and synod of Aberdeen; the living is worth
270. The parish church, H mile SW of Newburgh. is
a plain edifice of 1794, altered and improved in 1S94
and containing a marble monument with two fine busts'
of Col. John Augustus and Col. Robert Fullerton Udny
of Udny and Dudwick, who died respectively in 1859
and 1861. There is also a Free church, lg mile further
SSW; and three public schools Cultercullen, Foveran,
and Newburgh Mathers with respective accommodation
for 120, 180, and 253 children, have an average attend-
ance of 110, 89, and 213, and grants of 98, 16s 6d
90, 11s., and 209, 5s. Pop. (18S1) 2042, (1891) 1945.'
Ord. Sur. sh. 77, 1873.
Fowla or Foula, a Shetland island belonging to Walls
parish, 16 miles WSW of the nearest part of the Shetland
mainland, and 35 NNE of the nearest part of Orkney.
It measures 3i miles by 2J miles, and 5'15 square
miles in area; and, viewed at a little distance, appears
to consist of five conical hills, rising steeply from the
water, till the highest attains 1372 feet. It is easily
seen on a clear day from the northern parts of Orkney ;
and, tested by Tacitus' words in speaking of the ut-
most limits of Agricola's victories, it has better claims
than any other island to be deemed the Ultima Thule
of the ancients. Only one spot, the fishing station of
Ham, situated on its E side, is available as a landing-
place; the coast all round, except at that spot, is almost
one unbroken precipice, rising sublimely and terribly to
the shoulders or tops of the hills, from 1100 to 1220
feet high. The single landing-place is much frequented
as a fishing-station; the cliffs are denizened with myriads
of cormorants, kittywakes, gulls, and other sea-fowl ;
and the rocks are sandstone, except where claystone
slate occurs near Ham. Fowla is chiefly valued as a
fishing and curing station, and the only agriculture
practised in it is that of the Shetlander pure and simple.
Yet it is capable of producing finer crops than any other
island in the group. Much of the soil is naturally good,
and the climate is manifestly more largely affected
by the Gulf Stream than that of any other part of
Scotland. The island belongs to Mr A. Ewing Gil-
ir. Its islanders are remarkably hardy, have few
ts, and feel strong attachment to their rugged
home. There is an Established mission church, a
Congregational church, and a public school on the
island. Pop. (1837) 202, (1861) 233, (1871) 257, (1881)
267, (1891) 239.
Fowlis Castle. See FOULIS CASTLE.
Fowlis-Easter, a parish formerly on the eastern bor-
der of Perthshire, containing the village of Fowlis,
FOWLIS-WESTER
miles WNW of Dundee; and since 1618 united to the
contiguous parish of LUNDIE in Forfarshire, for ecclesi-
astical and educational purposes. In course of the
adjustment of the boundary between the counties of
Forfar and Perth by the Boundary Commissioners in
1891, it appeared desirable to all parties that this parish
should be transferred to the county of Forfar. This
was accordingly done. The parish is bounded SW by
Longforgan in Perthshire, and N by Lundie, E and S
by Lilf and Benvie, in Forfarshire. Its utmost length,
from WNW to ESE, is 4| miles; its width from J mile
increases eastward to 2J miles; and its area is 2827
acres, of which nearly 3 arc water. The surface ascends,
from flat carse lands to the braes of the Carse of Cowrie,
from less than 180 feet above sea-level near Mains of
Fowlis to 929 at Blacklaw Hill, at the north-western
extremity, which commands a beautiful view of the
Carse and of the southern screens of the Tay. A lake
of 55 acres, the Piper-Dam, lay in its upper part, but
was drained about 1780 for the sake of its marl. About
two-thirds of the land are in tillage; and the rest is
mainly disposed in woodland and pasturage. By David
I. Fowlis and other lands were granted, for gallantry at
the Battle of the Standard (1138), to William of Maule,
who was succeeded by his son-in-law, Roger of Morti-
mer. From the latter's descendant, Fowlis passed by
marriage (1377) to Sir Andrew Gray of Broxinouth,
the first Lord Gray; and by the ninth Lord it was sold,
in 1669, to an ancestor of the present proprietor, Keith-
Murray of Ochtertyre. Fowlia Castle stands to the S
of the village, towards the head of the beautiful Den
of Fowlis or BALIIUDDERY, a favourite iield alike for
geologist and botanist. From 200 to 300 years old,
it was suffered to go to decay towards the close of the
18th century, but has recently been rendered habitable
for farm labourers. A church of Fowlis-Easter is first
mentioned in 1180, and in 1242 was dedicated to St
Marnan. The present church is commonly said to date
from 1142, but is Second Pointed in style, and pro-
bably was built about 1452 by Andrew, second Lord
Gray of Fowlis, who made it collegiate for a provost and
several prebends. Measuring externally 89J by 29 feet,
it is all of hewn stone, and retains a finely-sculptured
aumbrye, a mutilated octagonal font (restored from
Ochtertyre), and a curious carved rood screen, with
painiings uf the Cnn-ii'mim, the Virgin Mary and the
infant Christ, St John Baptist and the Agnus Dei, St
Peter, etc. Of three round-headed doorways, one has
been blocked up; and one, the priest's, is enriched with
a crocketed canopy. Carefully repaired in 1842, its
interior was in 1889 restored as nearly as possible to
its original condition at a cost of over 1200, the heat-
ing apparatus being provided by Sir P. Keith-Murray,
and an organ introduced: In the churchyard are a
cross-carved coffin-slab and a plain passion cross 6 feet
high. A public school, with accommodation for 99
e.hiMren. has an average attendance of 60, and a grant
of 55, IMS. Od. Pop. (1831) 322, (1861) 317, (1871)
291, (1881) 311, (1891) 283.-CW. Sur., sh. 48, 1868.
See vol. ii. of Hillings' Baronial and Ecclesiastical Anti-
quities (1852); T. S. Muir's l)csn-q,ti\:c Xoticesnf Ancient
Parochial and Collegiate. Churches of Scotland (Lond.
1848); and an article by Andrew Jervise in vol. vii. of
frocs. Soc. Ants. Scoll. (1870).
Fowlis-Wester, a parish of central Perthshire, con-
taining Fowlis village, 2?- miles NNE of Abercairney
station, and 42 EXE of Crielf, under which it has a post
office. Gilmerton, 2 miles NE of Crieff, with another
post office, lies on the western border of the parish,
which until 1891 consisted of two slenderly united
sections and a small detached north-westerly district
extending for 4i furlongs along the river Almond, 5
miles WSW of Amulree. This detached portion (con-
taining 590 acres) was transferred by the Boundary
Commissioners in the above-mentioned year to the
parish of Monzievaird and Strowan. That part of
the parish, too, lying in the basin of the river Bran
was transferred to the parish of Little Dunkeld, and
that part of it lying to the north of the Almond was
FOWLIS-WESTER
transferred to the parish of Monzie. There were, how-
ever, added to the parish of Fowlis-Wester the Auchil-
anzie detached part of the parish of Crieff, and all the
part of Crielf parish which lay in the basin of the
Almond. The parish is bounded N by Dull and Little
Dnnkeld, E by Monzie, SE by Methven, S by Madderty,
SW by Crielf, and NW by Monzievaird. Its utmo'st
length, from N to S, is 8| miles; and its breadth varies
between 4 and 7 miles. The ALMOND enters the parish
in the NW, and has an east-by-southerly course across
the northern half of the parish, and as it leaves Fowlis-
Wester forms the boundary between it and Monzie.
Other boundaries of the parish are traced by the Shili-
gan and Shaggie Burns, and sluggish 1'ow Water separ-
ates it from Madderty. Here, in the SE, along the Pow,
the surface declines to less than 200 feet above sea-level,
thence rising to 441 feet at Aldie, 706 near Drummick,
806 at Murray's Hill, 1098 at Stroness, 1153 at Meall
Quliauzie, and 2117 at Meall Tarsuinn. The northern
portion, whilst sinking to 490 feet along the N bank of
the Almond, rises in a north-north-westward direction.
past
larl
: blue colour, possesses superior properties for roof-
purposes. The sandstone in places suits well
building, having a beautiful colour and a durable
The northern division of the parish, consisting of rugged
spurs of the Grampians, and dividing Strathbran from
Glenalmoud, is, with trifling exception, all of it wild or
e southern, in a general view, has a singu-
rly varied and unequal surface, flecked and clumped
with coppices and groves; but along Pow Water, through-
out the southern border, consists of an opulent and finely-
sheltered valley. The dells and ravines of the hillier
portions are graced in numerous places with tiny cas-
cades, and abound throughout with other features of
fine close scenery. The hills themselves, with their
large extent of southern exposure, are so adorned with
wood and fine enclosures as to present a very charming
appearance; and from many points they command
magnificent views of Strathearn. Granite, clay slate,
and sandstone are the prevailing rocks; but columnar
trap and limestone also occur. The slate, of beautiful
dark bl
for building, having
texture; admits of fine polish; and has been quarried
on the lands of Abercairney and Cultoqnhey. The soil,
alluvial in the valley of the Pow, is elsewhere variously
gravelly, sandy, loamy, and clayey. Not much of the
entire area is in tillage; woods and plantation cover
many acres; and the rest is pastoral or waste. The
castle of the ancient Earls of Strathearn stood on the
E side of a ravine f mile E of Fowlis village, and is
now represented by only a grassy knoll. Remains of
a double concentric stone circle, comprising 40 stones
in the exterior range, and measuring 54 feet in circum-
ference, crown the brow of a hill to the N of the village;
and three other ancient Caledonian standing stones and
a cromlech are on the W; whilst in the middle of the
village square stands the 'Cross of Fowlis,' transferred
to its present site from Bal-na-croisk, near the mouth
of the Sma' Glen, and sculptured with figures of men and
animals. Buchanty has been noticed separately, as
likewise are the four mansions, Abercairney, Cultoquhey,
Glen Tulchan, and Keillor Castle. Sir David Moray of
Gorthie, author of The Tragical Death of Sophonisba
(1611), and governor to Prince Henry, was born at
Abercairney; and at the parish school were educated
the Rev. William Taylor, D.D. (1744-1823), principal
of Glasgow University, and the Rev. Archibald Alison
(1757-1839), author of the Essay on Taste. Fowlis-
Wester gives off portions to Monzie and Logiealmond,
and itself is a living, of 276 value, in the presbytery
of Auchterarder and synod of Perth and Stirling. The
church, at the village, is a long unsightly edifice of
Reformation time, with a fine lych-gate, however, bear-
ing date 1644, but evidently older. The patron saint
was Beanus, born 'apud Fovlis in Stratherne;' and till
1877 a yearly market was held at Fowlis village on his
birthday, 26 Oct. o. s. Balgowan public, Fowlis public,
and Buchanty Glenalmond subscription school, with
respective accommodation for 84, 114, and 67 children,
have an average attendance of 58, 50, and 28, and
FOWLSHEUGH
grants amounting to 72, 60, 10s., and 40. Valu-
ation (18S3) 15,569, 19s. 11s., (1892) 13,374, 6s. 5d.
Pop. of civil parish (1831) 1680, (1861) 1433, (1871) 1161,
(1881) 1112, (1891) 968, of whom 74 were Gaelic-spealc-
ing; of ecclesiastical parish (1871)850, (1881) 771, (1891)
662; of registration district (1871) 1028, (1881) 978,
(1891) 853. Ord. Sur., sh. 47, 1869.
Fowlsheugh, a range of cliffs on the coast of Dunnot-
tar parish, Kincardineshire, 2J miles S of Stonehavcn.
Measuring upwards of a mile in length, and rising very
boldly from the sea, it consists of Old Red sandstone
and conglomerate, the latter containing nodules of quartz
and limestone. Myriads of gulls, coots, and other sea-
fowl here build their nests; and it is let to a tenant for
the perilous privilege of taking the birds and their eggs
by means of ropes lowered from the top.
Fowlshiels. See FOULSHIELS.
Foxhall, an estate, with a mansion, in Kirkliston
parish, Linlithgowshire, near the left bank of the Al-
mond, 3 furlongs E by S of Kirkliston village.
Foxton, an estate, with a mansion, in Cupar parish,
Fife, 2 miles NE of the town.
Foyers or Fechlin, a small river of Boleskine and
Abertaril' parish, central Inverness-shire, issuing from
Loch KILLIN (IJ x i mile; 1050 feet), and thence wind-
ing 9 miles north-north-westward ami northward, till it
falls into Loch Ness, opposite the peak of Mealfourvonie
(2284 feet), and lOfc miles NE of Fort Augustus. Its
course is chiefly along a high glen, with wild mountain
screens, and during the last li mile it makes a total
descent of 400 feet, including two surpassingly pictur-
falls, amid grandly romantic accompaniments of
and wood. Foyers House, the property of J. C.
Cuninghame, Esq., stands at the left side of its mouth;
esque fa
rock an
and on the right side, above the steamboat jetty, is
the Foyers Hotel, on the site of what was called the
General's Hut,' from General Wade of road-making
celebrity. A carriage-way ascends by easy traverses from
the pier to the (alls, and footpaths afford short cuts for
pedestrians. The upper fall is a leap of 40, and the
lower fall of 165 feet. Dr E. D. Clarke, the celebrated
traveller, pronounced the lower fall to be a finer cascade
than that of Tivoli, and inferior only to the Falls of
Terni; and Kobert Burns, as he stood beside it on 5
Sept. 1787, wrote:
' Among the heathy hills and rugged woods.
The roaring Foyers pours his mossy floods,
Till full lie'clasiies "ii t ..... ",:ky mounds.
Where thro 1 * shapeless In.-:,, h h:s stiviim resounds,
As high in air the bursting torrents flow,
As deep recoiling surges foam below.
Pi-one down the rock the whitening sheet descends,
And viewless echo's ear, astonish'd, rends.
Dim-seen, thro' rising mists and ceaseless showers,
The hoiiry cavern, wide surroundiii'j, lowers;
river toils,
n boils. 1
'The fall of Foyers,' says Professor Wilson, 'is the
most magnificent cataract, out of all sight and hearing,
in Britain. The din is quite loud enough in ordinary
can approach the plurr liuin \\hich you have a full view
of all its grandeur. When the fall is in ilood to say
nothing of being drenched to the skin you are so
blinded by the sharp spray smoke, and so deafened by
the dashing and clashing and tumbling and rumbling
thunder, that your condition is far from enviable, as you
cling, "lonely lover of nature," to a shelf by no means
eminent for safety, above the horrid gulf. In ordinary
Highland weather meaning thereby weather neither
very wet nor very dry it is worth walking a thousand
miles to behold for one hour the fall of Foyers. The
spacious cavity is enclosed by "complicated clilfs and
perpendicular precipices" of immense height; and
though for a while it wears to the eye a savage aspect,
yet beauty fears not to dwell even there, and the horror
is softened by what appear to be masses of tall shrubs or
single shrubs almost like trees. And they are trees,
which on the level plain would look even stately; but
as they ascend, ledge above ledge, the walls of that
awful chasm, it takes the eye time to see them as they
FRASERBURGH
really are, while on our first discernment of their char-
acter, serenely standing among the tumult, they are feft
on such sites to be sublime. Between the falls and the
strath of Stratherrick, a space of three or four miles, the
river Foyers flows through a series of low rocky hills
clothed with birch, and presenting various quiet glades
and open spaces." In 1894-95 the British Aluminium
Company obtained power to construct reservoirs above
the falls for the purpose of using the water power in the
manufacture of aluminium by electricity, but arrange-
ments were made by which the water could be restored
to its ancient channel when it was desired to show the
falls to visitors. The matter was referred to in Parlia-
ment, but the County Council being favourable to the
scheme as promising employment to the people of the
district, Parliament declined to interfere. Bee BOLE-
SKIXE AND ABF.IITARFF and chap. iv. of James Brown's
Jioiiml Table Club (Elgin, 1873). Ord. Stir., sh. 73,
1878.
Fracafield, a village in Shetland, 3i miles from
Lerwick.
Fraisgill, a cavern in Durness parish, Sutherland, on
the W base of Whiten Head and the E coast of Loch
Eriboll, 6 miles NNE of Heilem ferry. Measuring 50
feet in height and 20 in width at the entrance, it runs
about 4 mile into the bowels of the earth, and gradually
contracts into lowness and narrowness. Its walls are
variegated with a thousand colours so softly and deli-
cately blended, as to outvie the finest productions of the
painter's brush. Ord. Sur., sh. 114, 1880.
France, Little, a hamlet at the boundary between
Liberton and Newton parishes, Edinburghshire, 4 mile
S of Craigmillar Castle, and 3 miles SE of Edinburgh.
It got its name from being the residence of some of
Queen Mary's retainers, brought with her from France.
Frankfield, a lake (2Jx2 furl.), near Millerston, on
the mutual border of Barony and Cadder parishes,
Lanarkshire, sending off a rill to Hogganfield Loch.
Fraoch Eilean, a small island in Loch Awe, Argyll-
shire, 2i miles SW of Kilchurn Castle and 4 mile NE
of Inishail. The hero Fraoch, going to gather its ser-
pent-guarded apples, which the fair Mego longed for,
slew and was slain by the monster a legend which
recalls the classic myth of the Hesperides, and which
forms the theme of an ancient Gaelic poem, translated
about 1770 by the Rev. Dr John Smith. In 1267 the
islet was granted by Alexander III. to Gilbert Mac-
naughton ; and it contains the ruins of a strong fortalice,
in which the Macnaughton chieftains resided. Ord.
Sur., sh. 45, 1876.
Fraochy, Loch. See Fr.KUCHiE.
Fraserburgh, a town and a parish in the NE extrem-
ity of Aberdeenshire. Founded by Alexander Fraser of
Philorth in 1569, at first the town was known as Faith-
lie, the name of a free burgh of barony erected by
charter of Queen Mary five years earlier ; but by a new
charter of 1 601, it was constituted 'a free port, free burgh
of barony, and free regality, to be called in all time
coming the Burgh and Regality of Fraserburgh.' It
is built on the southern slope of Kinnaird's Head, and
along the western shore of Fraserburgh Bay, by road
beinl 22 miles E of Banff and 17i NNW of Peterhead,
whilst by rail, as terminus of the Formartine and
Buchan branch (1865) of the Great North of Scotland
railway, it is 16 miles NNE of Maud Junction, 41 NNE
of Dyce Junction, 47J N by E of Aberdeen, 177J NNE
of Edinburgh (by Tay and Forth Bridges), and 200 NE
by N of Glasgow. Kinnaird's Head (the 1',-omontorium
Tiic.ni/iitm of Ptolemy), \ mile to the north, is a rocky
headland, composed of mica slate, and 61 feet high.
The Erasers' castle here, dating from 1570, is a rect-
angular four-storied tower. 39 feet by 27; on its roof a
lighthouse was built in 1787, whose lantern, rising 120
feet above high water mark, shows a fixed light, red
over Rattray Briggs, white in all other directions, and
visible at a distance of 17 nautical miles. A sea-crag,
50 yards to the eastward, is crowned by the massive
'Wine Tower,' which, measuring 25J by 20 feet, and
25 high on the landward side, contains two vaulted
59
rRABERBURGH
apartments. Tlie only doorway is on the upper story,
and the wooden stair leading up to this is modern, so
that how the tower was formerly entered, and what was
its purpose, remain a puzzle to the antiquary. The
style, however, of five freestone earrings, that adorn
the roof and two windows, is thought to refer it to the
15th century. It is now used as a depot for the arms
and stores of the rifle volunteers. Beneath it is a cave,
the Seiches Hole, believed to penetrate 100 feet, but now
much choked with stones. Scarce a vestige remains
of a square three-storied tower at the W end of the
town, part of a college begun by Alexander Fraser, he
having obtained a charter in 1592 to erect a university.
The scheme fell through, but his building was once
called into requisition, when, on the outbreak of the
plague at Aberdeen in 1647, King's College for a time
removed to Fraserburgh. The town itself, overlookin<*
the harbour and bay, is neat and regular. Its principal
streets run parallel to the bay, with others crossing at
right angles; and recent shoreward improvements and
northward extensions have also tended to enhance its
symmetry. The Town House, built in 1855, is a hand-
some Grecian edifice, whose dome-crowned tower con-
tains a niche, with a statue of Alexander Fraser, six-
teenth Lord Saltoun (1785-1853), a hero of Waterloo and
of the Chinese opium war. His portrait hangs in the
town-hall, on the second floor, with one of his ancestor
the founder of the town. A market-cross, erected by
that founder, stood originally on a large hexagonal
basement, with nine gradations of steps; and, as restored
in 1853, is an oval stone shaft 12 feet in height, sur-
mounting a pedestal, and itself surmounted by the
Royal and Fraser arms. The prison since 1874 has
served only for the detention of prisoners whose period
does not exceed three days. The parish church, rebuilt
in 1802 and restored in 1873-74, is a plain structure,
with clock-tower and spire and 1000 sittings. An organ
was introduced into it in 1892. The West quoad sacra
church (1877; 800 sittings) cost 4000, and has a very
effective spire. There are two Free churches, a U.P.
church (1875), a Congregational church (1853), an
Evangelical Union church (1854), a baptist church
(1880), Salvation Army barracks, a Roman Catholic
Himvh (1MIO), anil St Peter's Episcopal church (1891;
400 sittings). The last, a building in Norman-Scottish
style, entirely of pink granite, was built as a memorial
to the saintly Bishop Alexander Jolly, D.D. (1755-1838),
who for half a century, from 1788 till his death, was
incumbent, and a Life of whom, by the Rev. W.
Walker (2d ed.. E.linb., 1878), contains much of inter-
est relating to Fraserburgh. On the north wall of the
church stands a monument to the bishop. The
Academy, opened in 1872, was built at a cost of 2700,
and further endowed with 5000, by the late James
Park, merchant; the (Jills' Industrial school (18C3) was
mainly founded by the late Miss Strachau of Cortes, as
a memorial to her' brother, Jann-s Stmchun, Ksq., M.D.,
Inspector General of Army Hospitals, Madras; and a
public school, costing over 6000, was opened m ,s, T t.
1882. It has accommodation for 960 children, and
superseded the former burgh school. The Hospital was
built by the late Thomas Walker, Bsneurer, and gifted
by him to the town ; whilst the Dalrymple Public Hall
and Cafe was built at a cost of 4500, upwards of
2300 of which was given by the late Captain John
Dalrymple. It is Scottish Baronial in style, and the
hall has accommodation for 1100 persons.
The town has, besides, a post office, with money
order, savings' bank, insurance, and telegraph depart-
ments, branches of the Bank of Scotland, the Town and
County, North of Scotland, and Union Banks, several
hotels, a gas-work, a water supply from Ardlaw, com-
plete sewage works, formed at a cost of over 4000 in
1877, a custom-house, a coastguard station, a cemetery
a library and newsroom (in Dalrymple Hall), two build-
ing societies, the Batchan's Hall, a masonic lod^e a
lifeboat (1880), two newspapers the Fraserburgh Adver-
tiser (1852, Friday) and the Fraserburgh Herald (Tues-
day), etc. There is a weekly cattle auction; corn
FRASERBURGH
markets aie held on Tuesday and Friday; and a sheriff
small debt court sits on the last Friday of each month
during session, and also in September. Whale and seal
fishing is quite extinct ; and shipbuilding has dwindled
away. Some employment is furnished by two breweries,
pe and sail yards, saw-mills, a manure factory, oil
works, fish-curing works, and the Kimiaird fresh herring
' whit . " .'
being
herring fishing industry in Scotland. New and improved
nd white fish tinning works; but herring fishing is the
burgh being the chief seat of the
staple industry, Fr
buildings are steadily on the increase, the ground for
feuing purposes being taken up at what are considered
high rates namely, 30 to 40 per annum per acre for
99 years' lease or perpetual feu.
The harbour, founded by Alexander Fraser in 1576, 'in
the name of Father, Son, "and Holy Ghost,' had only one
small pier. The north, south, and middle piers were
built between 1807 and 1837 at a cost of 30,000, the
space within the pier heads being nearly 8 acres, with a
depth, according to the tides, of 11 to 16 feet of water
inside and along the quays, and of 6 to 20 feet at the
entrance. In 1855 and following years a new N harbour
of 8 acres of sheltered water, witli a low-water depth of
10 feet at the entrance, was formed by the construction
of a pier and breakwater, giving a total berthage of 8850
feet, of which 6025 are available for shipping. The
estimated cost of this N harbour (25,000) was more
than doubled, and even then the breakwater was left
unfinished till 1875, when, and in following years, it
was carried to a length of 850 feet. The latest under-
taking has been the deepening of both harbours and the
widening of the quays, 70,000 having been expended
for that purpose. This has had the effect of diverting
to Fraserburgh most of the trade from neighbouring
small ports, while a further deepening scheme is under
the consideration of the Harbour Board. The number
of vessels registered as belonging to the port in 1895 was
16, of an aggregate tonnage of 729 tons, namely, 14
sailing vessels of 575 tons and 2 steamers of 154 tons.
Fraserburgh is now one of the finest and most commo-
dious harbours on the east coast of Scotland.
The herring fishing of 1894 was the most successful
in the district. The total catch exceeded that of the
previous year, which was a record one. The season was
remarkable in many respects. The fishing was executed
in exceptionally fine weather, the herring were large
and of superior quality, while the quantities landed had
never been exceeded in the history of the district. The
number of barrels of herrings salted or cured in Fraser-
burgh in 1893 and 1894 was 387,101 and 435,312 respec-
tively, while in 1894 the number exported was 335,054
the largest quantity exported in the previous ten years.
The number of cod, ling, and hake cured in 1894 was
29,005. The number of boats, decked and undecked
(including beam trawl vessels), employed by Fraser-
burgh in 1894 in the herring and other sea fisheries
was 617, giving employment to 1223 fishermen and
boys; the number of curers was 76, and of coopers 509.
The value of the boats was 48,205; of nets, 34,580;
of lines, 12,842, giving a total estimated value of
105,573. There were altogether in 1894 about 876
fishing boats coming and going in a desultory manner.
A pretty large trade is done in timber, imported from
Norway and Sweden, the other chief imports being
coals, salt, etc. ; while the principal exports, besides
herrings and white fish, cured and fresh, are grain,
empty barrels, potatoes, etc.
The harbour is managed by 13 commissioners; and
the town, as a burgh of barony, was governed by a
hereditary provost (Lord Saltoun), a baron bailie, It!
councillors, a dean of guild, and a burgh fiscal. lu
1S93 the Burgh Police (Scotland) Act, 1892, came into
operation, under which affairs are administered by an
elected body of 9 commissioners, including a provost
and 2 bailies. The municipal constituency numbered
1200 in 1892. Valuation (1892) 30,300. Pop. (1881)
6583, (1891) 7466, of whom 7360 were in the police burgh.
The parish of Fraserburgh, known as Philorth or
Faithlie till early in the 17th century, consisted until
1891 of a main body and a detached district, situated at
Tivhmuiry, and comprising 2747 acres. This detached
district, lying 1J mile SSW of the main body, was
transferred by the Boundary Commissioners in the year
mentioned to the parish of Strichen. The parish is
bounded N by the Moray Firth, NE by Fraserburgh Bay,
SE and S by Rathen, SW and W by Pitsligo. Its
utmost length, from WNW to ESE, is 3| miles; whilst
its width, from NNE to WSW, varies between 2J and
3| miles. The area of the parish is now 5920 acres, of
which 25S| are foreshore and 41 water. The northern
coast, extending 2J miles along the Moray Firth, is low
though rocky, but rises into bold headland at Kinnaird's
Head (61 feet); the north-eastern, extending 2jj miles
along Fraserburgh Bay, is most of it low and sandy,
skirted by bent-covered hillocks. Fraserburgh Bay
measures 2 miles across the entrance, from Kinnaird's
Head to CAIRNBULG Point, and 9 furlongs thence to its
inmost recess; on a fine summer day, with a fleet of
vessels riding at anchor in it, it presents a charming
scene. The Water of Philorth creeps 2J miles north-
north-eastward, along all the south-eastern border, to
its mouth in Fraserburgh Bay; and two burns, draining
the rest of the parish, How northward and north-east-
ward to the sea. The surface throughout rises from the
coast, but so slowly as to appear almost flat, and attains
its maximum altitude in the Sinclair Hills (167 feet).
Mica slate, granite, limestone, and ironstone are plenti-
ful; and there are several chalybeate springs. The soil
in many parts is sandy and light, in others loamy and
clayey ; and nearly all the land, except 400 acres of
plantations and 200 of moss in the detached portion, is
arable. Philorth House, noticed separately, is the only
mansion; and Lord Saltoun is much the largest pro-
prietor. In the presbytery of Deer and synod of Aber-
deen, this parish since 1877 has been divided into
Fraserburgh proper and West Church quoad sacra
parish, the former a living worth 367. Four schools
Kr^erlmi-h public, the Girls' Industrial, St Peter's
Episcopalian, and Broadsea General Assembly with
respective accommodation for 960, 188, 304, and 211
children, have an average attendance of about 860, 190,
260, and 200, and grants amounting to nearly 870,
165, 230, and 175. Pop. (1881) 7596, (1891) 8092,
of whom 106 were on board vessels in the harbour,
4751 in the ecclesiastical parish of Fraserburgh, and 3601
in that of West Church. Ord. Sur., sh. 97, 1876.
Freasgal. See FRAISGILL.
Freeburn, a hamlet in Moy and Dalarossie parish,
Inverness-shire, on the left bank of Findhorn river, 15i
miles SE of Inverness, and If mile NNW of Findhorn
Bridge.
Freefield, an estate, with a mansion, in Kayne parish,
Aberdeenshire, 4J miles NE of Insch. Its plain man-
sion was built about the middle of 18th century, and lias
beautifully wooded grounds. Ord. Sur., sh. 86, 1876.
Freeland, an estate, with a mansion, in Forgandenny
parish, SE Perthshire, | mile SSE of Forgandenny
station, and 2 miles W of Bridge of Earn.
Frendraught, an estate, with an old mansion, in
Forgue parish, NW Aberdeenshire, 2J miles SSE of
Forgue church, and 11 ENE of Huntly. On the N
side of the house is still a fragment of the older tower,
whose basement story was vaulted with stone, the three
upper floors bein" all of wood, and which, one October
night of 1630, was the scene of the tragedy known as
the 'Burning of Frendraught.' Sir James Crichton,
great-grandson of the first Lord CniciiTON, chancellor
of Scotland, about the close of the 15th century ob
tained "
Gordoi
the Gordons (whose chief was the Marquis of Huntly)
had led to a skirmish on 1 Jan. 1630, in which
Gordon of Rothiemay was slain; and this affair the
Marquis had patched up by desiring Crichton to pay
50,000 merks to Rothiemay's widow. Some nine
months later the Marquis again was called upon to act
as arbiter, this time between Crichton and Leslie of
Pitcaple, whose son had been wounded in another fray;
the lordship of Frendraught, in the heart o"f the
i country. A feud between his descendants and
and this time he decided in Crichton 's favour. Leslie
rode otf from Bog ot Gight or Gordon Castle with threats
of vengeance; and the Marquis, fearful for Crichton's
safety, sent him home under escort of his eldest son,
young Lord Ahoyne, and others one of them, strangely
enough, the son of the slaughtered Rothiemay. ' They
rode,' says Spalding, 'without interruption to the place
of Freudrauglit, without sight of Pitcaple by the way.
Aboyne took his leave from the laird, but upon no con-
dition would he and his lady suffer him to go, and none
that was with him, that night, but earnestly urged him
(though against his will) to bide. They were well enter-
tained, supped merrily, and to bed went joyfully. . . .
About midnight this dolorous tower took fire in so sudden
and furious a manner that the noble Viscount, the Laird
of Rothiemay, and four others were cruelly burned and
tormented to death, without help or relief.' The Mar-
quis of Huntly, in the belief that the fire was no acci-
dent, but that gunpowder and combustibles had been
piled in the vault below, instituted proceedings; and a
commission, sent to inspect the premises, reported that
the fire must have been raised from within; or if from
without with aid from within. Crichton sought to
fasten the crime upon Pitcaple, one of whose kinsmen,
John Meldrum, was actually hanged and quartered as
the perpetrator. In the evidence given at the trial it
was proved that there had been a good deal of drinking
that night, and that one of the servants had gone to the
vault with a light, for a drink. The burning seems to
have been the result of an accident. Crichton had
everything to lose in fact, did lose everything by it.
He, however, had influence at court, Charles I. desiring
to counterbalancoHuntly's feudal sway ; and in Crichton's
own lifetime his eldest son, James, was created Viscount
Frendraught (1642). The title expired with the fourth
Viscount in 1698; and the lands of Frendraught now
belong to Lt-Col. F. de Lemare Morison, Esq. ot Bognie,
whose ancestor married the widow of the second Viscount.
Ord. Sur., sh. 86, 1876. See vol. ii. of Chambers'*
Domestic Annals (1858); Sir A. Lcith Hay's Cuslcllnti-,1,
.Irdnircturc of Abrf<lcr,isliire (1849); an article by C.
lUmpini in the Xcn/tlsli Review for July, 1887 ; and
for the line old ballad, 'The Fire of Frendraught/ Prof.
Aytoun's Ballads of Scotland (186i).
Freswick, a township, a mansion, and a bay in
Canisbay parish, Caithness. The township, near the
coast, 4 miles 8 of John o' Groat's House, and 12 N of
Wick, under which it has a post oilice, has a public school,
and fairs on the second Tuesday of February and of
December. Freswick House, on the SW shore of the
bay. at the -mouth of the Gill Burn, 1 mile SE of the
school, is the property of Alexander Sinclair of DUN-
BEATH. JOHN o' GROAT'S HOUSB and BUOIIOLIE Castle
are on the estate. Freswick Bay, measuring 1J mile
across the entrance between Skirsa and Ness Heads, and
J mile thence to its inmost recess, has a half-moon form,
and lies completely exposed to the E. Ord. Sur., sh.
116, 1878.
Freuch or Fraoch. See CLAIO.
Freuchie, a loch in the SE of Dull parish, Perthshire,
in Glenquaich, 1 j mile W of Amulree. Lying 880 feet
above sea-level, it has an utmost length and breadth of
1J and 3J furlongs; sends oil' to the E the river Braan;
and contains small, lively trout, with far too many pike.
Glenquaich Lodge, a shooting-box of the Earl of Bread-
albane, is on its south-western shore. Ord. Sur., sh.
47, 1869.
Freuchie, a village near the E border of Falkland
parish, Fife, 1J mile NNW of Falkland Road station,
and 2 miles E by S of Falkland town. A quaint old
place, with narrow winding streets, small courts, and
bullet-paved closes, it strikingly represents the times
when folks travelled only on foot or on horseback, and
when all goods were conveyed by pack-horses; and it
anciently lay in such relation to the precincts of Falk-
land, that disgraced courtiers were sent hither on their
dismissal, whence the proverbial saying, ' Go to
Freuchie.' It has a post office, a branch bank of the
British Linen Co., a hotel, power-loom linen factories,
FREW
a water company, a co-operative society, a quoad sacra
church, a United Presbyterian church, a public school,
Lumsden Memorial Hall, and a reading-room and library.
Pop. ofvillage(1881)1059, (1891)913; of ,7. s. parish (1881)
1117, (1891) 981. Orel. Sur., sh. 40, 1867.
Frew. See FORD of FREW.
Friardykes, a place in Stenton parish, Haddington-
shire, the site of a cell of Melrose Abbey, used for
rusticating refractory monks.
Friars Brae, an eminence in Linlithgow parish, on
the S side of the town. It was anciently crowned by a
Carmelite friary, founded in 1290, and dedicated to the
Virgin.
Friars Carse, an estate, with a mansion, in Dunscore
parish, Dumfriesshire, on the right bank of the Nitli,
2 miles SSE of Auldgirth station, and 6J NNW of
Dumfries. It was the seat, in prc-Rel'orniation times,
of a cell of Melrose Abbey; and in the avenue leading
to the mansion are a number of antique sculptured
stones, believed to have belonged thereto. Passing at
the Reformation to the Kirkpatricks, then the pro-
prietors of Ellisland, it went in 1634 to the Maxwells
of Tinwald, afterwards to the Riddels of Glenriddel,
and later to Dr Crichton, who bequeathed a sum of
100,000 to found the Crichton Royal Institution, which
acquired the estate in 1895. Built, about 1774, on a
piece of rising ground, round which the Nith makes a
graceful curve, the mansion often was visited by Robert
Burns during his three years' tenancy of ELLISLAND.
Here he foregathered with 'fine, fat, fodgel' Grose, a
brother antiquary of Captain Riddel's; and here he acted
as arbiter in the great Bacchanalian tourney of the
ir/riatlc. ' As the authentic prose history,' says Burns,
' of the Whistle is curious, I shall here give it. In the
train of Anne of Denmark there came over a Danish
gentleman of gigantic stature and great prowess, and a
matchless champion of Bacchus. He had a little ebony
whistle, which at the commencement of the orgies he
laid on the table, and whoever was the last able to blow
it was entitled to carry it off as a trophy of victory.
After many overthrows on the part of the Scots, the
Dane was encountered by Sir Robert Lawrie of Max-
welton, who, after three days' and three nights' hard
contest, left the Scandinavian under the table,
'"Ancllil.'n
the
histle t
i shrill.'
Sir Walter, son to Sir Robert, afterwards lost the
Whistle to Walter Riddel of Glenriddel; and on
Friday, 16 Oct. 1790, at Friars Carse, the Whistle was
once more contended for by Sir Robert of Maxwelton,
Robert Riddel o; Glenriddel, and Alexander Fergussnn
of Craigdarroch, which lust irrntleman carried oil' the
hard-won honours of the field.' Allan Cunningham
adds that 'the Bard himself, who drank bottle and
bottle about, seemed quite disposed to take up the con-
queror when the day dawned.' Another of his poems
was written in Friars Carse Hermitage, which, now a
ruin, was then ' a snug little stone building, measuring
104 feet by 8, and supplied with a window and tire-
place. Captain Riddel gave him a key, so that he could
go in and out as he pleased.' An autograph copy of the
Whistle is in the Thornhill Museum ; and the pane of glass
from the Hermitage on which Burns wrote the openin"
lines of the ode is in the possession of Arch. Fullarton
Esq. Ord. Sur., sh. 9, 1863. See chap. i. of William
JI'Dowall's Burns in Dumfriesshire (Edinb. 1870).
Friars Croft. See DUXBAR.
Friars Dubb. See BEBVIE.
Friars Glen, a sequestered glen in Fordoun parish,
Kincardineshire, at the base of Strathfinella Hill,
beyond Drumtochty Castle. A small Carmelite friary
here is still represented by foundations.
Friockheim, a modern village in Kirkden parish,
Forfarshire, on the right bank of Lunan Water, with a
station on the Arbroath and Forfar section of the Cale-
donian railway, 6J miles NW by W of Arbroath and
Ij mile ESE of Guthrie Junction. About the year
1830 operatives connected with textile manufactures
were induced to feu houses at a cheap rate on the estate
63
FEUIN WATER
of Middleton ; and Friockheim acquired material in-
crease of importance, first by the Arbroath and Forfar
railway (1839) placing it on a grand thoroughfare be-
tween these towns, next by the Aberdeen railway
(1850) making it a centre of transit of all places N of
the Tay. It has a post office, with money order,
savings bank, and telegraph departments, a branch of
the North of Scotland Bank, insurance agencies, a
police station, gas-work, a cemetery, an assembly hall,
a library and reading-room, a Young Men's Christian
Association, a curling club, a charitable association,
Mr and Mrs Mudie's bequests for the poor, a horticul-
tural society, and cattle, sheep, and hiring fairs on 26
May or the Thursday after, on the Monday in July after
Arbroath fair, and on 22 November or the Thursday
after. The quoad sacra parish, constituted in 1870, is
in the presbytery of Arbroath and synod of Angus and
Meurns; the stipend is 160, with a manse. Its church,
built in 1836 and enlarged in 1840, is a neat edifice,
with a steeple. In 1885 a handsome Established mission
church was erected by public subscription. There are
also a Free church and an Evangelical Union chapel;
and a public school, with accommodation for 320 chil-
dren, has an average attendance of about 220, and a
grant of 190. Pop. of village (1881) 1098, (1891) 943;
of q. s. parish (1881) 1501, (1891) 1205, of whom 298
were in Inverkeilor and 967 in Kirkden. Ord. Sur.,
sh. 57, 1868.
Frogden, a farm in Linton parish, Roxburghshire.
A spot on it, marked wit'h five or six upright stones in
circular arrangement, is called the Tryste, and was a
place of muster in the old times for Border forays into
England.
Froon. See FEU IN.
Frostly, a burn in Tcviothead parish, Roxburghshire,
rising, as Linhope Burn, close to the Castleton border,
at an altitude of 1480 feet, and running 5 miles north-
north-westward, along a narrow glen, till, after a descent
of 900 feet, it falls into the Teviot just below Teviot-
head church. Ord. Sur., sh. 17, 1864.
Fruchie. See FREUCHIE.
Fruid Water, an upland burn in Tweedsmuir parish,
SW Peeblesshire, rising close to the Dumfriesshire bor-
der, at an altitude of 2500 feet, on th
(2651). The
the N side of HART-
iles north-north-west-
ward, mainly along a beautiful glen, flanked by high
green hills, till, after a total descent of 2626 feet, it
falls into the Tweed 1J mile SSW of Tweedsmuir church.
Vcsliges of an ancient Border peel are on its right bank
at Fruid farm, 3i miles from its mouth. Ord. Stir.,
sh. 16, 1864.
Fruin Water, a troutful stream of W Dumbartonshire,
rising on Maol an Fheidh (1934 feet), at an altitude of
1500, in the NW of Row parish, 2 miles NE of the
head of Gare Loch, and thence winding 12J miles south-
eastward and east-north-eastward, through or along the
borders of Row and Luss parishes, till it falls into Loch
Lomond, nearly opposite the lower end of Inchmurrin
island, and 2J miles N by W of Balloch pier. Its upper
glen, named alter it Glenfruin, is flanked, on the NE
side, by BEN CHAORACH (2338 feet), BEN THARSUINN
(2149), and Balcnock (2092), a mountain range that
figures grandly in the sky-line of the views from the
upper waters of the Firth of Clyde, and on the SW side
by the Row hills (1183); whilst the last 4 miles of its
course are through a low and luxuriant plain. Dumfin
(200 feet), an eminence here, 3 miles ENE of Helens-
burgh, is crowned by traces of a ' Fingalian ' fort; and
on the right or opposite bank of the stream stands the
ruined castle of Bannachra, where in July 1592 Sir
Humphry Colquhoun, the Laird of Luss, was besieged
by an invading party of Macfarlanes and Macgregors.
The loophole still is shown through which he was shot
dead by an arrow, guided by the treacherous torch of
one of his own servants. At Strone, 3 miles ESE of
Garelochhead, was fought the bloody elan conflict of
Glenfruin in 1603. Early in that year Allaster Mae-
gregor of Glenstra, followed by 400 men, chiefly of his
own clan, but including also some of the clans Cameron
FUDA
and Anverich, armed with ' halberschois, pow-aixcs,
twa-handit swordis, bowis and arrow-is, and with hag-
butis and pistoletis,' advanced into the territory of Luss.
Alexander Colquhoun, under his royal commission,
granted the year before in consequence of the Mac-
gregors' outrage at Glenfinlas, had raised a force which
some writers state to have amounted to 300 horse and
500 foot. 'On 7 Feb. the Macgregors,' says Mr Fraser,
' were in Glenfruin in two divisions, one of them at the
head of the glen, and the other in ambuscade near the
farm of Strone, at a hollow or ravine called the Crate.
The Colquhouns came into Glenfruin from the Luss
side, which is opposite Strone probably by Glen Luss
and Glen Mackurn. Alexander Colquhoun pushed on
his forces in order to get through the glen before en-
of his approach,
countering the Macgregors; but, awai
Allaster Macgregor also pushed forward one <
his forces and entered at the head of the glen in time
to prevent his enemy from emerging from the upper end
of the glen, whilst his brother, John Macgregor, with
the division of his clan which lay in ambuscade, by a
detour took the rear of the Colquhouns, which prevented
their retreat down the glen without fighting their way
through that section of the Macgregors who had got in
their rear. The success of the stratagem by which the
Colquhouns were thus placed between two fires seems to
be the only way of accounting for the terrible slaughter
of the Colquhouns and the much less loss of the Mae-
gregors. The Colquhouns soon became unable to main-
tain their ground, and, falling into a moss at the farm
of Auchingaich, they were thrown into disorder, and
made a hasty and disorderly retreat, which proved even
more disastrous than the conflict, for they had to force
their way through the men led by John Macgregor,
whilst they were pressed behind by Allaster, who,
reuniting the two divisions of his army, continued the
pursuit.' All who fell into the victors' hands were in-
stantly slain; and the chief of the Colquhouns barely
escaped with his life after his horse had been killed
under him. Of the Colquhouns 140 were slain, and
many more wounded, among them a number of women
and children. When the pursuit was over, the work of
plunder commenced. Hundreds of live stock were
carried off, and many of the houses of the tenantry were
burned to the ground. The reckoning, however, was
speedy, for on 3 April the name of Gregor or Macgregor
was for ever abolished by Act of the Privy Council; and
by 2 March 1604 thirty-five of the clan Gregor had
been executed, among them Allaster himself. Ord.
Sur., shs. 38, 30, 1871-66. See Sir William Eraser's
Chiefs of Colquhoun and their Country (Edinb. 1869).
Fuda, a small fertile island of Barra parish, Outer
Hebrides, Inverness-shire, J mile NE of the nearest
point of Barra island. It exhibits a number of granite
veins, impregnated with iron. Of its 6 inhabitants in
1871, 4 were males; of the same number in 1881, 5
were females; of 7 in 1891, 6 were females.
Fuinafort, a place in KilHnichen and Kilvickeon
parish, Mull island, Argyllshire, 6 miles from Bunessan.
It has a post office under Oban.
Fuirdstone, an ancient tower on Wester Baln;il>nccli
farm, in Caraldston parish, Forfarshire. Demolished
early in the nineteenth century, it formerly gave its
name to the parish.
Fulden. See FOULDEN.
Fulgae, a lolty skerry of Shetland, on the NW coast
of Papa Stour island. It rises almost murally from the
sea and is pierced with caverns.
Fullarton. See MARYTON.
Fullarton, an Ayrshire burgh of barony within the
bounds of the parliamentary burgh of Irvine, but lying
in Dundonald parish, on the left or opposite bank of
the river Irvine. With Irvine it is connected by a
handsome stone four-arch bridge of 1746, and from 1690
to 1823 it was supposed to belong to Irvine parish,
having in the former of those years been technically
united thereto; but, an appeal being made to the Court
of Session in 1823, it was found to have legally belonged
all along to Dundonald. An Established church, built
FYNE
as a chapel of ease in 1836 at a cost of 2000, contains
900 sittings, and in 1874 was raised to quoad sacra
status, its parish being in Ayr presbytery and the synod
of Glasgow and Ayr. There are also a Free church and
2 public schools. See IRVINE and DUNDONALD. Pop.
of parish (1881) 4009, (1891) 4530. Ord. Sur., sh.
"Fullarton House, a seat of the Duke of Portland in
Dundonald parish, Ayrshire, 1J mile ESE of Troon.
The estate around it belonged to the Foulertouns or
Fullartons of that ilk from the 13th century till 1805,
when it was sold to the third Duke of Portland by Col.
William Fullarton (1754-1808). This gallant soldier and
author, immortalised in Burns's Vision, was born at
Fullarton House, which was built by his father in 1745.
It has since been twice enlarged by the addition of
wings, and what was once the back is now the front a
great improvement, any sacrifice of architectural grace
being more than compensated by the fact that the house
now faces the Firth of Clyde and Isle of Arran. That
Louis Napoleon stayed here in 1839 is not correct; but
the fourth Duke's third son, the Conservative leader and
sportsman, Lord George Bentinck (1802-48), passed
much of his boyhood at Fullarton. William John
Arthur Charles James Cavendish Bentinck is the
present and sixth Duke since 1716 (b. 1857; sue. 1879).
Ord. Sur., sh. 22, 1865. See LANGWELL and the
Rev. J. Kirkwood's Troon and Ihmdonald (3d ed.,
Kilmar., 1881).
Fulton. See BEDEULE.
Fulwood Moss, a former peat-moss in Houston parish,
Renfrewshire, a little W of Houston station, and 3A miles
NW of Paisley. Extending over 98 acres, it was re-
claimed by the Glasgow Corporation in 1879-80 at a
cost of 4539, no fewer than 1882 waggons, or fully
12,000 tons, of city refuse being shot into the moss.
The reclamation, besides giving work to 300 of the un-
employed at the time, has proved a financial success,
good crops of potatoes, &c., being now raised from
what was previously worthless ground. The detritus
from the macadamized roads of the city, and its surplus
manure, are sent chiefly to this farm. Ord. Sur., sh.
30, 1866.
Funtack, a burn in Moy and Dalarossie parish, Inver-
ness shire, winding 'J^ niilcs cast-south-eastward along
Slrathdearn, from Loch Moy to the river Findhorn.
Ord. Sur., sh. 84, 1876.
Funzie, a bay of Fetlar island, Shetland, the only ling-
fishing station in the island. It is overlooked by re-
mains of a pre-Reformatiou chapel.
Furnace, a post-office village in Inverary parish,
Argyllshire, on the shore of Loch Fyne, in the mouth
of Ulenleacainn, 8 miles SSW of Inverary town. It has
a mission station in connection with the Scottish
KpiscHjul church. It took its name from an iron smelt-
ing work established here towards the end of the 18th
century, but it now depends on the great granite quarry
of DUN LEACAINN, started in 1841, and rendered lamous
by its monster blasts. Crarae quarry, 2 or 3 miles
farther down the loch, was the scene of a calamitous
blast in 1886. Both quarries supply the Glasgow
Statute Labour Department with granite, and on the
city and elsewhere, among whom were two city coun-
cillors, crowding in too soon after the explosion, suc-
cumbed to the fatal influence of the supervening gases.
Fushiebridge, a village in Borthwick parish, Edin-
I'lii -lisliire, near the left bank of Gore Water, 1 mile S
by E of Gorebridge. Across the stream lies Fusliiebridgi:
station on the Waverley route of the North British, 12^-
milcs SSE of Edinburgh.
Fyne, a mountain rivuletand a large sea-loch in Argyll-
shire. The rivulet, rising on the south-western skirrs
of BENI.OY, a little NW of the meeting-point with
Dumbarton and Perth shires, runs 6i miles south-south-
westward, along a wild Highland glen, called from it
Glenfyne, and falls into the head of the sea-loch 7 fur-
longs NE of Cairndow. Ord. Sur., shs. 46, 45, 37,
3876.
The sea-loch first strikes 27 miles south-westward; then
makes a sudden expansion, and sends off to the N the
considerable bay of Loch GILP, leading into the CRINAN
Canal; and then strikes 134 miles south-by-eastward,
till, opposite Ardlamont Point, it merges in the Sound
of Bute, the Kyles of Bute on the left, and Kilbrennan
Sound, all passing into the Firth of Clyde. Its breadth
is 1 furlom' near Cairndow, Ig mile at Inverary Ferry,
1 mile near Strachur, 2 miles at Lachlan Bay, 1J mile
at Otter Ferry, 4 miles at Kilfinan Bay, 2Jr miles at
Barmore Island, and 5 miles at Ardlamont Point. Its
screens, from head to foot, show great variety of both
shore and height, and present many scenes of singular
force and beanty; but as a whole they offer little of the
grandeur and romance that characterise the screens of
many others of the great Highland sea-lochs. Around
the head, and downwards past Inverary, they have strik-
ing forms and lofty altitudes, attaining 2955 feet in
BEN-AN-LOCHAIN and 2557 in BEN BHEULA ; round
Inverary, too, they have great masses of wood, and some
strongly picturesque features of hill and glen and park.
In most of the reaches thence they have much verdure,
some wood, and numerous hills, but rarely exhibit
stronger featu
towards the entrance, however, they
variety and magnificence, with the islands of Bute and
Arran. The waters have been notable from time imme-
morial for both the prime quality and the great abun-
dance of their herrings. One of the twenty-seven
fishery districts of Scotland has its headquarters at
INVERARY; and two others have their headquarters at
respectively KOTHKSAY and CAMPBF.LTOWN. Ord. Sur.,
shs. 37, 29, 1876-73. See pp. 124-132 of Dorothy
,
of landscape than simply the beautiful;
nce, however, they combine, into great
Scotland (ed. by Trine. Shairp,
Wordsworth's To
1874).
Fyriah or Cnoc Fyrish, a wooded hill in Alness parish,
ll.ws-shire, culminating 1J mile NNW of Novar House
at an altitude of 1483 feet above sea-level. It seems to
have been used in ancient times as a station for beacon
lires; and is crowned by an artificial structure of upright
stone blocks in rude form of an Indian temple. -CM.
Sur., sh. 93, 1881.
Fyvie, a parish of Aberdcenshirc, containing Wood-
head village, 2^ furlongs from the left bank of the river
Ythan, and 3 miles E by S of Fyvie station on the
lianiV branch of the Great North of Scotland railway,
this station being 7 miles SSE of Turriir, and 31J NNW
of Aberdeen. In 1673 Alexander, third Earl of Dun-
fermline, obtained a charter, erecting the lordship of
Fyvie into a free burgh of barony, with a tolbooth and
a market cross, at which should be held three annual
fairs. With this burgh of Fyvie, Woodhead has been
identified; and its dilapidated cross was rebuilt in 1846,
some years before which date the tolbooth long a
dwelling-house had been pulled down. The fairs have
been discontinued, but a cattle market is held on the
third Thursday of every month at Fyvie station, and on
the second Monday of every month at Rothie station,
also in Fyvie parish, 3J miles to the SW. Fyvie besides
has a post office, with money order, savings' bank, and
railway telegraph departments, a branch of the Town
and County Bank, a horticultural association, and a
cottage hospital built and endowed by Colonel and Mrs
Cosmo Gordon for the benefit of the parish.
The parish is bounded N and NE by Monquhitter, E
by Methlick, SE by Tarves, S by Meldrum, SW by
Daviot and Rayne, W by Auchtcrless, and NW by
Turriff. Its utmost length, from NE to SW, is 10 j
miles; its breadth varies between 7 furlongs and 6
miles; and its area is 29,650 acres, of which 64 J are
water. From Towie Castle, at the NW corner of the
parish, the YTHAN, a small stream here, first traces 2
miles of the boundary with Auchterless, next winds 8J
miles south-eastward and north-eastward through the
interier, and lastly flows 2| miles east-by-uorthward
along the Mettlick border. It receives in its course a
64
FYVIE
good many little aBluents, and divides the parish into
two pretty equal parts. Where, below Gight Castle, it
passes off into Methlick, the surface declines to 88 feet
above sea-level, thence rising south-westward to 499
feet at the Hill of Blairfowl, 691 near Stoneyfield, 629
near Waulkmill, and 700 on the Rayne border; north-
westward to 466 near Monkshill, 587 near Gourdas, and
585 at Deers Hill. The leading rocks are greywacke
and slate in the SW, Old Red sandstone over a small
portion of the NW, and elsewhere greenstone or basalt,
often intersected by veins of quartz, calcareous spar,
hematite, etc. The soil along the banks of the Ythan is
a lightish loam of great fertility, especially in the part
called the Howe of Fyvie; and in other parts is ex-
tremely various gravelly, mossy, etc. Fully four-
sevenths of the entire area are in tillage, one-fifteenth is
under wood, one-tenth is pasture, and the rest is either
moss or heath. Founded by Fergus, Earl of Buchan, in
1179 for Benedictines of Tiron, and subordinate to
Arbroath Abbey, St Mary's priory stood in a meadow
between the Ythan and the parish church, a cross, on a
base of hewn stones, surmounting a rough round cairn,
having been erected in 1868 on the site of its church,
which was built by Prior Mason in 1470. GIGHT
Castle, on the Ythan, towards the eastern extremity of
the parish, is an interesting ruin, noticed separately;
and a ruined mill, 1J mile NE of Fyvie Castle, was the
scene of the ballad of Mill o' fifty's Annie, or Agnes
Smith, who died in 1 673. On the outskirts of St John's
Well farm are remains of a cairn, Cairnchedly, which
has yielded a number of small earthen urns. To the
NE of the Castle of Fyvie, Montrose, in Oct. 1644, was
nearly surprised by Argyll with a greatly superior force
-an episode known as the ' Skirmish of Fyvie.' This
Castle, on the Ythan'a left bank, J mile NE of Fyvie
station, dates from remote antiquity, it or a predecessor
having received a visit from Edward I. of England in
1296. It then was a royal seat, and such it continued
till 1380, when the Earl of Carrick (later Robert III.)
made it over to his cousin, Sir James de Lindsay. From
him it passed in 1390 to Sir Henry Preston, his brother-
in-law, and from him about 1433 to the Meldrums, who
sold it in 1596 to Sir Alexander Seton, an eminent
lawyer, created first Earl of Dunlermline in 1605. The
fourth and last Earl being outlawed in 1690, his forfeited
estate was purchased from the Crown in 1726 by
William, second Earl of Aberdeen. It now belongs to
A. J. Forbes Leith, Esq. The Fyvie Castle of to-
eau-li
tury; and
stands in the midst of a finely-wooded park, with an
artificial lake (J mile x 4 furl.) Other mansions are
Rothie-Norman and Kinbroon. In the presbytery ol
Turriif and synod of Aberdeen, Fyvie comprises chiel
part of MILLBREX and a small part of Barthol Chapei
quoad sacra parishes, and itself is a living worth 330.
The church, originally dedicated to St Peter, stands near
the left bank of the Ythan, Ig mile SE of Fyvie station
and rebuilt in 1808, it was repaired in 1885, when i,
hall was presented to the church by Capt. Gordon o '
Fyvio Castle. St Mary's Established mission church
built and endowed by Colonel Gordon, is at Cross o'
Jackstou. At Woodhead are a plain but commodiou .
Free church, altered and decorated in 1878, and AK
Saints' Episcopal church, which, Early English in style .
built in 1849, and received the addition of ;
. . ,
day is a stately chateau-like pile
periods, from the 13th on to the 18th
n,d
1870. Another Episcopal church, S,
George's (1796-1848), is at Meikleiolla, 1J mile SS 1
of Rothie station. Seven schools Fyvie, Meiklefoll; .
Steinmanhill, Woodhead, All Saints', Fyvie female, an 1
St Katherine's female with total accommodation ft r
938 children, have an average attendance of over58i',
and grants amounting to about 600. Pop. of civil paru i i
(1881) 4403, (1891) 4049; of ecclesiastical parish (188 i )
3235, (1891) 2977; of registration district (1881) 331,',
(1891) 3050. Ord. Svr., sh. 86, 1876.
G ADGIRTH, a hamlet and an estate, with a mansion,
in Coylton parish, Ayrshire, on the left bank of
the river Ayr, 4 miles SSW of Tarbolton. The
estate was the property of the late Major-General
Francis Claud Burnett.
Gadie, a burn of Aberdeeushire, rising in Clatt parish,
and running lOi miles east-by-northward through Leslir,
Premnay, and Oyne parishes, till it falls into the Ury,
9 furlongs E of Oyne church. It is celebrated in several
of the Latin poems of Arthur Johnston, and also in a
fine old ballad, beginning -
At the back o' Beonochie.'
Alter the capture of Pondicherry in 1793, a Highland
regiment, marching into the town, was suddenly arrested
by hearhi" lliis ballad sum;' l>v a Sroitish lady from an
open window. Orel. Sur., sh. 76, 1874.
Gaick, a desolate alpine tract, a forest one, in Kin-
gussie parish, Inverness-shire, around the head of
Gleiitnmn'e, contiguous to the Perthshire border. It
touches, or rather overlaps, the watershed of the central
Grampians, its mountain summits culminating at an
altitude of 2929 feet above sea-level; and it abounds
in grandly romantic scenery, including on its southern
border one of the most accessible and picturesque of the
passes over the central Grampians. It partly contains,
partly adjoins, three lakes Loch an Duin (lOxli furl.;
1680 feet), Lori, lihradain (4-J x If furl. ; 1460 feet), and
Loch an t-Seilich (9 x 3J furl. ; 1400 feet). Wood there
is none now, except some scattered birch copse; but the
' forest ' is stocked by numerous herds of red deer, be-
longing to Sir George Macpherson Grant, Bart of Inver-
eshie. Glentromii: I,od;r, the residence, is 4 miles from
Kingussie. Ord.
sh. 64, 1874.
Gairbridge.
Gairden. See GAIEN.
Gairie, a rivulet of Kirriemuir and Glamis parishes,
Foi-lai shire, flowing round two sides of Kirriemuir town,
and, after a south-south-easterly course of 71 miles, fall-
ing into Dean Water 2 miles NE of Glamis village.
On/. ,SVr., sh. 56, 1870.
Gair Loch, a sea loch on the west coast of Ross and
('riiMinrtv. It strikes 6J miles east-south-eastward from
the North Minch, and measures Si across the entrance,
where lies the island of Louga, whilst 31 miles higher up,
near the southern shore, is the smaller island of Horris-
dale.
Gairloch (Gael, gcarr-locli, 'short loch'), a coast vil-
lage and parish of west Ross and Cromarty. The vil-
lage stands on the north-eastern shore of the loch that
gives it name, by water being 30 miles XXE of Portrce
in Skye, by road 6 SW of Poolewe, 9 WNW of Talla-
dale or Loehmaree hotel, 18 WNW of Kinlochewe hotel,
and 28 WNW of Auehiiasheeu station on the Dingwall
and Skye section (1870) of the Highland railway, this
elation "bring 251 miles NE of Strome Ferry and 27?
WSW of Dingwall. It communicates with Auchnasheen
by a daily coach, with Portree by weekly steamer (thrice
a week in summer), and with Poolewe by mail-car thrice
weekly. It has a post ollice, with money order, savings
bank, and telegraph departments, a branch of the Cale-
donian Bank, a steamboat pier, and a good hotel. A
market for horses and cattle is held on the Thursday
before Beauly in October and November.
The parish, containing also Poolewe, Talladale, and
Kinlochewe, is bounded NE by Greinord Bay and Loch-
broom parish, E by Contin parish, SE by Lochalsh and
Lochcarron parishes, S by Applecross parish and Loch
Torridon, and W by the North Minch. It has an utmost
length, from E to W, of 25 miles; an utmost width,
from N to S, of 22 miles; and an area of 356 square
miles, or 227,8803 acres, of which 1689J are foreshore,
and 16,996$ water. The seaboard, 90 miles long, is
bold and rocky, rising rapidly to 100 and 400 feet above
sea-level, and deeply indented by GREIXOKD Bay, Loch
EWE, Gair Loch, and Loch TORRIDON. The river Coulin
or A Ghairbhe, entering from Lochcarron parish, winds
6J miles northward, through Lochs Coulin and Clair,
along the Loehcarron border and through the interior
to Kinlochewe, where it is joined by a rivulet, running
31 miles north-westward down Glen Doeherty. As Kin-
lochewe river, the united stream flows 2| miles north-
westward to the head of famous Loch MAREE (12;: miles
-< 3 furl, to 21 miles; 32 feet above sea-level), and from
its foot, as the river Ewe, continues 2J miles north-north-
westward, till at Poolewe it falls into Loch Ewe. Lochan
Fada (3J miles x 5 furl. ; 1000 feet), lying near the Loch-
broom border, sends off a stream 4^ miles south-south-
westward to Loch Maree, near its head; and Fionn Loch
(5| x 11 mile; 559 feet), lying right on the Lochbroom
border, sends olf the Little Greinord along that border
5J miles north-by-eastward to the head of Greinord Bay.
These are the principal streams and lakes of Gairlorh
parish, whose very large fresh-water area (more than fif-
teen times larger than that of the whole of Fife) comprises
the TUiiOy acres of Loch Maree, the 2238? of half of Fionn
Loch, the 928 of Lochan Fada, the 203 of part of Dubh
Loch (9x3 furl.) at the head of Fionn Loch, the 345J of
Loch na h-Oidhche (1J mile x Si furl.), the 166 of Loch
Tollie (7J x 5 furl. ), etc. The surface is grandly diversi-
fied bv tall pyramidal quartz mountains, the chief being
Ben Airidh a'Char (2593 feet), Ben Lair (2817), BEK
SLEOCH (3217), and Ben a'Mhuinidh (2231), to the NK
of Loch Maree; to the SW, Bus-bheinu (2869) and Ben
Eay or Eighe (3309). The rocks are primary, of Lauren -
tiau, Cambrian, or Devonian age. Less than 5000 acres, or
one-fortieth of theentire area, isrcturned as 'arable, wood-
land, or rough pasture,' the rest being all of it mountain,
moor, and deer-forest. So that Gairloch depends far
less on agriculture proper than on sheep-farming and the
fisheries ol the streams and lochsoftheneighbourtaeseas
In 1823 Hugh Miller was sent to Gairloch village with
a party of fellow-quarrymen, and chapters xii. and xiii.
of Mi/ Scl/iiulti and SfliwIiHKxtrrs give a graphic descrip-
tion of his sojourn here. 'For about six weeks,' he
writes, ' we had magnificent weather; and I greatly en-
joyed my evening rambles amid the hills or along the
sea-shore. I was struck, in these walks, by the amazing
abundance of wild flowers, which covered the natural
meadows and lower hill-slopes. . . . How exquisitely
the sun sets in a clear, calm summer evening over the
blue Hebrides ! Within less than a mile of our barrack
there rose a tall hill (1256 feet), whose bold summit
commanded all the Western isles, from Slrat in Skyc to
the Butt of the Lewis . . . Thediateff and spindle
was still in extensive use in the district, which did not
boast a single spinning-wheel, a horse, or a plough, no
cart having ever forced its way along the shores of Loch
Maree. . . . They tell me, that, for certain, the.
fairies have not left this part of the country yet.' The
chief antiquities of Gairloeh are described under Loch
Maree, which, from the 12th to the 19th of September
1877, received a visit from Queen Victoria. Mansions,
both noticed separately, are FI.UWKUHALI: and LETTER-
EWE; and Sir Kenneth Mackenzie owns rather more
than two-thirds of the entire rental. In the presbytery
of Lochcarron and synod of Glenelg, this parish "since
1851 has been ecclesiastically divided into Gairloch and
POOLKWE, the former a living worth 222. Its church
was built in 1791; in the graveyard lies buried the
Gaelic bard, William Ross (1762-90), who was school-
master here for the last four years of his life. There
are Free churches of Gairloch and Poolewe; and ten
public schools Achtercairn, Bualnaluib, Inverasdale,
Kinlochewe, Laide, Mellon Udregle, Mclvaig, Opinan,
Poolewe, and Sand with total accommodation for 820
children, have an average attendance of about 500, and
grants amounting to over 600. Pop. of civil parish
(1801) 1437, (1821) 4518, (1861) 5449, (1871) 5049,
5
GAIB LOCH
(1881) 4594, (1891) 4181, of whom 3852 were Gaelic-
speaking; of ecclesiastical parish (1871) 2425, (1881)
277 (1S91) 2071; of registration district (1881) 4479,
(1891) 4090, of whom 27/3 were in the southern division.
Ord. Sur., shs. 91, 92, 81, 82, 100, 1881-82. J. H.
Dixon's Gairloch (1888).
Gair Loch, Dumhartonshire. See GARE LOCH.
Gairlochy, a hamlet in Kilmallie parish, Inverness-
shire, at the foot of Loch Lochy, 3 miles WNW of Spean
Bridge. It has a post office under Spean Bridge.
Gairn, a small river of Crathie and Glenmuick par-
ishes, SW Aberdeenshire, rising, on the eastern side
of BEN AVON, at 3550 feet above sea-level, and thence
winding 20 miles east-south-eastward along a mountain
glen called from it GLENGAIRN, till, after a total descent
of 2810 feet it falls into the Dee at a point 1| mile
NW of Ballater. The Bridge of Gairn, on the line of
road from Aberdeen to Castleton, spans it J mile above
its mouth, and here is a post office under Ballater.
Ord. Sur. shs. 75, 65, 1870-70.
Gairney Bridge, a farm at the NE verge of Cleish
parish, Kinross-shire, on the left bank of Gairney Water,
If mile SSE of Kinross. In a public house here, on
the site of the farmstead stables, Ebenezer Erskine and
the three other fathers of the Secession formed them-
selves into a presbytery, 15 Dec. 1733; and on the site
of the farmhouse itself, the young poet Michael Bruce
(1746-67) taught a small school in 1765-66. Ord. Xur.,
sh. 40, 1867.
Gairney Water, a hum of Glenmuick and Aboyne
parishes, S\V Aberdeenshire, rising at an altitude of
2500 feet, and running 5$ miles north-north-eastward,
through Glentanner Forest, till, after a descent of 1880
feet, it tails into Tanner Water at a point 5J miles SW
of Aboyne village. Ord. Sur. sh. 66, 1871.
Gairney Water, a rivulet partly of Perthshire, but
chiefly of Kinross-shire. Rising among the hills of the
western portion of Fossoway parish, it runs 3J miles
cast-south-eastward, and then proceeds 4J miles east-
by-northward, chiefly along the boundary between
Cleish parish on the right and Fossoway and Kinross
parishes ii tlif Irlt. till it falls into Loch Leven 2 miles
SE of Kinross town. Ord. ktur., sh. 40, 1867.
Gairnside. See GLEXRAIKN.
Gairsay, an island of Kvie and Kendall parish, Ork-
ney, H mile E of the nearest part of Orkney main-
land, and 1J NW of Shapinshay. It measures 2 miles
in greatest length, and 1J mile in greatest breadth; con-
sists chiefly of a conical hill of considerable altitude;
rises steeply on the W side; includes, on the E and on
theS, some low, fertile, well-cultivated land; contains,
close to the S shore, remains of a fine old mansion, once
the seat of Sir William Craigii-: and has a public school
and a small harbour, called Millburn, perfectly sheltered
on all sides, m.-inly by Gairsav it*elf, and partly by a
small island in the harbour's mouth. Pop. (1891) 33.
Gaitnip, a range of coast crags in the S of Kirk wall
palish, Orkney, on the E side of the upper part of Scapa
Bay. Several caverns penetrate it, all formed by the
disintegrating action of the sea; and one, like a narrow
winding tunnel, over 300 feet long, and from 12 to 20
feet high, is beautifully studded with stalactites.
Galashiels, a parliamentary burgh and parish of Sel-
kirkshire. The town is situated on both banks of the
river Gala, about a mile above the confluence of that
river with the Tweed, and is 4 miles WNW of Melrose,
6N of Selkirk, 18 ESE of Peebles, and 32 SSE of Edin-
burgh by road. It is a station on the Waverley section
of the North British railway, and from it diverge branch
lines to Selkirk and Peebles. The name, from Gala and
ihiels or slii-Jiiujx. signi lying shepherds' huts, appears to
have designated originally a small village, on the site
of what is now called the old or high town, which
had found its nucleus in the baronial seat of Gala, on
the S bank of the river. This Gallowschel was a place
of considerable antiquity, and is traditionally said to
have contained a hunting-seat of the Scottish monarchs.
Its name appears in a charter of the early part of the
14th century; it is mentioned as containing a tower of
GALASHIELS
Earl Douglas in 1416; and it figures in documents
relating to the marriage of James IV. with the Princess
Margaret of England. The old peel tower, known as
' Hunters' Ha',' stood till the end of the 18th century;
and ivy-clad ruins of the tolbooth, whose vane bore date
1669, were demolished in the summer of 1880. The de-
cay of the village has been arrested by the prosperity of
the modern town, and its site is now occupied by numer-
ous handsome villas. The armorial bearings of Galashiels
are a fox and a plum-tree, and
are said to have been assumed
in memory of an event that
occurred during Edward III.'s
invasion of Scotland (1337).
A party of English, encamped
in or near the town, had begun
to straggle through the neigh-
bouring woods in search of wild
plums, when the inhabitants
ol Galashiels fell suddenly upon
them, drove them headlong to
a spot on the Tweed, nearly
opposite Abbotsford.still known
as the ' Englishmen's Syke,' and
cut them down almost to a man.
Congratulating themselves on Anns of C
an exploit that had proved to be
sourer fruit for the invaders than the plums they had
been seeking, the villagers dubbed themselves 'the Sour
Plums o' Galashiels,' and are celebrated under that name
in an old song. The arms of the town, however, seem
to indicate some confusion of thought between this event
and the table of the fox and the grapes.
The modern town owes its origin, as well as its growth
and prosperity, to the spirit of manufacturing enterprise
whieh iirst seized the people in the 18th century. Gala-
shiels has no history apart from the narrative of the
development of its manufactures, and although mills on
the Gala are mentioned early in the 17th century, it was
not till the following century that a general move was
made down to the banks of the stream which afforded
suchexcellentwater-power. Dorothy Wordsworth, speak-
ing of the place in 1803, describes it as 'the village of
Calashiels. pleasant lysil uated on the banks ol the stream;
a pretty place it once has been, but a manufactory is
established there; and a townish bustle and ugly stone
houses are fast taking the place of the brown-roofed
thatched cottages, of which a great number yet remain,
partly overshadowed by trees.' Since that time the pros-
perity and activity of the burgh have reached a very high
pitch. An important factor in furthering the prosperity
of the town was the opening of the various railways
to Edinburgh and Hawick, to Selkirk, and to Peebles
which at a lessened cost provided access to the best mar-
kets for the manufactures ol the town.
The burgh of Galashiels stretches for 2 miles along
both sides of the Gala, which flows through the narrow
town from NW to SE. For the most part it is built on
the alluvial ground along the banks, but it also sends
offshoots, extending up the slopes of the adjacent hills.
It is flanked or overlooked on the one side by Meigle
Hill (1387 feet) and Gala Hill, and on the other by
Buckholm and Langlee Hills; and the environs are
picturesque and varied in their scenery. Situated pre-
vious to 1891 on the border between Selkirkshire and
Roxburghshire, the burgh belonged to two parishes
Melrose and Galashiels which were, however, for all
civil and police purposes, regarded as one community in
Selkirkshire, though for parochial matters each parish
rated its own district. The Boundary Commissioners,
in the above year, transferred the Melrose portion of the
burgh to Galashiels, and placid the entire parish in the
county of Selkirk.
The aspect of the town is unassuming. Most of it
is either straggling or irregular ; the central parts
and both extremities, contiguous to the river, consist
mainly of factories, shops, offices, and workmen's houses.
The part S of the Gala is made up chiefly of one long
irregular street, with several newer and shorter streets
QALASHIELS
and detached buildings, stretching along the narrow
level strip that intervenes between the river and the
hills. The southern part of the town, which is the
quarter showing the greatest extension and improve-
ments in recent times, has a number of short, irregu-
lar streets, and rows and clusters of buildings tlmt
reach up the face of the hill. The suburbs, especially
Abbotsford Road, Melrose Road, and Windy Knowe,
are adorned with large and elegant villas, oil'ering one of
the best and most visible evidences of the prosperity of
the Galashiels manufacturers. The river, which is
spanned by five bridges and two railway viaducts, is, in
times of drought, almost entirely drawn off by the fac-
tories; but in times of freshet it is not always prevented
by strong bulwarks from flooding the adja'cent streets.
Heavy floods on 12 July 1880, and again on 10 March
1881, were attended with great damage to property along
its banks. Another flood on 21 September 1890 severely
tested the bridge between the station and the town,
the intercepted water rushing down the streets on the
south side of the Gala for fully half a mile. There is
no drainage system whatever, and at all times the Gala
serves as a common sewer for the refuse of the town
a fact which at times is unpleasantly impressed upon
the olfactory nerves. The railway within the burgh is
crossed by one foot-bridge and three for wheeled trallic.
Galashiels has not many buildings of an imposing
nature. The houses, with the exception of the subur-
ban villas, are in a plain and unambitious style. The
town-hall, built in 1860 at a cost of 3000, is a hand-
some edifice of two stories, with a large hall capable of con-
is, besides a smaller hall and committee-
rooms. The Corn Exchange was erected in 1860 at a
cost of 1100, and has a hall with accommodation for
500 persons. The Volunteers' Hall was built in 1874,
accommodates 1400, and cost 3500; the Masonic Hall
buildings, including shops and small dwelling-houses,
as well as the public rooms, were erected in 1876 for
about 3000; this hall and the Good Templar Hall can
accommodate 300 persons each. Union Street Hall and
St Peter's Church Hall accommodate 400 and 450 persons
respectively. The public hospital was projected in 1 872.
In 1893 a cottage hospital was erected at a cost of about
3800, containing 20 beds, besides convalescent and
accident wards, dispensary and other offices, and ample
accommodation for nurses. The free public library,
with a lending department, was erected in 1873 at a
cost of about 1000, and is managed by a committee
chosen from among the town council and the house-
holders. There is a very large number of associations
and combinations for various purposes social, com-
mercial, helpful, and pleasurable among the people of
Galashiels. These include 'a Mechanics' Institute, a
horticultural society, two farmers' clubs, two building
societies, three co-operative societies, a manufacturers'
corporation, Masonic, Foresters, Free Gardeners, Oddfel-
lows, and Good Templar lodges, clubs for angling, cricket,
football, cycling, bowling, curling, golf, etc., a literary
society, and various religious societies, an ornithological
society and club, an entomological society, several bene-
fit societies, a Jubilee Institute for nurses, etc. The
churches and meeting-houses are numerous and capa-
cious. The parish church is a semi-Gothic edifice dating
from 1813, and contains about 850 sittings. Ladhope
church serves for a quoad sacra parish constituted in
1855, and comprising part of the town formerly within
Melrose parish. It contains about 900 sittings. The
West Church serves for a quoad sacra parish constituted
in 1870, and was built at a cost of 1400. It has since
been extended at a cost of 2300, and has now 900
sittings. In Nov. 1881 St Paul's church was opened,
its erection, begun in 1878, being the result of the
growing needs of the populous town. It serves as a
consort to the parish church, the parish minister and
his assistant holding alternate services in the two build-
ings. The style of the edifice is Early Decorated Gothic ;
and the cost, including the spire, which is 190 feet high,
was 17,000. The church, which is seated for 950
persons, has a nave 83 feet long, besides aisles and
transepts; the height to the apex
A large organ was placed in thi
1150. Galashiels Free church
f the roof is 62 feet.
church at a cost of
s built in 1875 at a
cost of about 5150, to supersede a previous edifice.
It is in the Gothic style, with two gables in the tran-
sept, and is seated for 650 persons. A hall in the same
style adjoins it. Ladhope Free church contains 750
sittings, and besides good hall accommodation, it has
stained-glass windows, the gift of members of the con-
gregation and friends. The East United Presbyterian
church, built in 1844, with 840 sittings, superseded a
old as t
previous church that was nearly as old as the modern
town. The West United Presbyterian church was
opened in 1880, also on the site of a former church,
and affords room for upwards of 800 hearers. The South
United Presbyterian church, an edifice in the Early
English style, with a square tower 70 feet high, was
opened in Aug. 1880. It cost 4500, and accommodates
between 750 and 800 persons. St Peter's Episcopal
church, an Early English building dating from 1853,
was enlarged by the addition of a new chancel and S
aisle in 1881, when a new organ also was erected, and
contains 390 sittings. In connection with this church
a hall accommodating 450 persons was built in 1889
at a cost of 1400. The Gothic Roman Catholic
church of Our Lady and St Andrew, opened in 1858,
with 400 sittings, was not entirely completed till 1872.
Other places of worship are an Evangelical Union chapel
(rebuilt 1872); two Baptist chapels (18S3 and 1875);
and meeting-houses for Plymouth Brethren and Christa-
delphians.
There are five public schools within the burgh, also
an Episcopalian and a Roman Catholic school, whose
accommodation, average attendance, and grants are
for the burgh public, about 900, 775, 805; Ladhope
0, 245, 255; Old Town, 450, 400, 350; Glen-
errace public, 355, 330, 335; Episcopalian,
265, 245, 220; Roman Catholic, 280, 220, 220. The
burgh public school in Gala Park was erected in 1875 at
a cost of 4200; and a considerable sum was afterwards
spent in providing additional accommodation. But in
1893 Gala Public School was erected, to accommodate
875 scholars. It has science and art class-rooms, and
was estimated to cost about 8900. There are various
private schools, including three young ladies' schools
and the academy for boys; also a High School in Bal-
moral Place, just outside the Burgh boundary.
Galashiels contains a head post office, with all the
usual departments, including a savings bank; but to
meet the growing requirements of the town a new
one, with greater accommodation, was erected in 1894.
There are also three receiving offices. The banks com-
prise branches of the Bank of Scotland, British Linen
Company, Commercial Bank, National Bank, and Koyal
Bank of Scotland, and a trustee savings bank. There
are several inns and hotels. Two weekly newspapers
are published at Galashiels T/te Border Adm'iincr,
established in 1848, and The Scottish Border Jlecord,
established in 1881. A weekly market is held each
Tuesday, a fair on the third Wednesday in March, and
a live-stock sale every alternate Wednesday.
Galashiels contains several iron and brass foundries,
engineering works, dye-works, skinneries, one of which
is perhaps the largest in Scotland, and establishments
for the production of such mill furnishings as shuttles,
reeds, heddles, etc. ; other trades, besides the usual
shops for the local trade of a country town, are those!
in connection with coal, corn, and timber. But by far
its most important interest centres in the manufacture
of woollen cloth; the greater part of the population is
connected with it; the largest buildings in the town are
its woollen mills, and the most ornate the mansions of
its tweed manufacturers. The industry seems to have
been followed in the district from an early period; for
a charter of 1622 makes mention of certain waul k mills
(fulling-mills). But even in 1774, 150 years later, no
great progress had been made, for only 170 cwts. of
wool were used at Galashiels, and woven into blankets
and coarse 'Galashiels Greys.' At the same date, the
67
prosperty of Gala-
shiels. The manufacturers skilfully adapted themselves
of fashion, inflicted a check on
GALASHIELS
nnited rental of the three waulk-mills in the town was
15, while the valued rental of mills iu 1893 was 13,460.
But before the close of the 18th century an advance was
begun. In 1790 the first carding machine in Scotland
was erected at Galashiels, and that was only the fore-
runner of many new machines and modes introduced by
the active and enterprising manufacturers. In that
year mills began to be erected lor the reception of the
new machinery; but by far the greater part of the 660
cwts. of wool used in the district in 1792 was woven in
the dwellings of the weavers. Few years passed in the
1 inning of the 19th century without the introduction
of some improvement that enhanced the quality of the
cloth, or lessened the cost of production. The chief pro-
ducts up till 1829 were, as before, blankets and cloth of
home-grown wool, with knitting yarns and flannels; but
the depression of that year, co-operating with a chang
i the prosperity c " "
lapted the:
to circumstances, and introduced new fabrics, of which
the chief were tartans and mixed trouserings in tweed.
Thenceforward the prosperity of the town has been steady
and uniform; and, notwithstanding the keen and grow-
ing rivalry of the mills in Selkirk, Ihuviek. Dumlries,
Innerlcithen, etc., the manufacturers of Galashiels, as
they were the first to introduce the woollen manufactures
into the south of Scotland, have constantly maintained
their position at the head of the industry. The chief
fabrics now produced at Galashiels are the world-
renowned tweeds; but yarns, blankets, plaids, shawls,
tartans, narrow cloths, grey and mixed erumbcloths, and
blanket shawls of variegated patterns, also bulk
in its trade returns. It has about 20 woollen-mills
operation, and several yarn-spinning mills. There are
no factories for the manufacture of hosiery, although
there are two or three stocking-makers in the town who
do a little business privately. There are also 4 tweed
warehouses, on a tolerably extensive scale, which carry
on a home and foreign trade. The manufacturers are
exceedingly averse to affording information concerning
the extent of their operations; and it is difficult to ob-
tain accurate returns as to the number of hands employed
or the yearly value of goods manufactured. They and
the weavers meet annually on the Friday nearest the
10th of October, for the purpose of electing a deacon of
the trade, and conferring on matters connected therewith.
Galashiels proper was made a burgh of barony in
1599, and, till 1850, was administered by a baron-bailie
under the Scotts of Gala, who succeeded the 1'ringles of
Gala as superiors iu 1632. In 1868 the town was con-
stituted a parliamentary burgh, and it unites with
Hawick and Selkirk iu returning one member to par-
liament. Iu 1876 the boundaries of the burgh were
extended for municipal purposes, though not for parlia-
mentary election purposes. By the Burgh Police
(Scotland) Act of 1892, which came into operation iu
May l,s!i:i, there are 12 commissioners, including the pro-
vost and 4 bailies. An Aet of Parliament was obtained
in 1875 ior extending the limits of the police burgh, and
for investing the governing body with efficient powers.
A gas company was established in 1836, and a water
company in 1839. The bill of 1875, however, author-
ised the corporation to construct waterworks, with a
compensation reservoir on the Caddon, a clear water
reservoir on Knowesdean, and a service reservoir to the
S of Leebrae. These wen; completed in 1879 at a cost
of about 60.000. The police force, in 1895. consisted
of 13 men, and a superintendent, receiving a salary of
160, with other appointments by the corporation.
Folice courts arc held as occasion may require. Small
debt courts are held on the second Mondays of February,
April, June, and December, on the last Monday ol July,
and on the first Monday of October. The valuation of
the burgh in 1895 was 68,279, including 1745 lor
railways. The parliamentary constituency, iu 1895, was
2554. Fop. of the parliamentary burgh (1881) 12,435,
(1891) 17,252; of the entire town (1881) 15,330, (1891)
17,367, of whom 7997 were males and 9370 females,
whilst 11.033 were in the parish and police burgh of
GALA WATER
Galashiels and 6334 in Melrose parish. Houses (1891)
inhabited 3500, vacant 44, building 47.
Galashiels parish until 1891 was situated partly in
Selkirkshire and partly in Roxburghshire, its larger
portion being in the former county. It includes the
ancient parishes of Boldside in Selkirkshire, and Lin-
dean formerly in Roxburghshire; and the union appears
to have been carried through in 1640. The Boundary
Commissioners, however, in the year above mentioned
transferred to the parish of Galashiels the Selkirkshire
part of the Roxburghshire parish of Melrose, the portion
thus transferred being simply that part of Melrose parish
situated within the police limits of the burgh of Gala-
shiels. They then placed the parish wholly in Selkirk-
shire. By certain statutes it is secured that whatever
part of the parish of Melrose may be at any time in-
cluded within the police limits of the burgh of Gala-
shiels, shall ipso facto become part of the county of Sel-
kirk. The parish as it now exists is bounded on the
NE and E by Melrose, on the SE by Bowden, on the S
by Selkirk, on the W by Selkirk and the Selkirkshire
section of Stow, and on the NW by the Selkirkshire
section of Stow. Its greatest length, from NW to SE,
is 6J miles; its greatest breadtli is 3JJ miles. From
Caddonfoot to the Ettrick's influx the river TWEED
winds 3J miles east-south-eastward aloug the boundary
with Selkirk parish, and then, bending 2J miles north-
north-eastward, divides the Boldside from the Lindean
portion and from the Abbotsford corner of Melrose.
The ETTKICK, for the last If mile of its course, divides
the Lindeau portion from Selkirk parish. CADDON
Water, over its last 6J, furlongs, traces the N half of the
western border; and GALA WATER traces the boundary
with Melrose parish on the NE. CAULDSHIELS. Loon
(2Jxl furl.) is in the Lindean portion. The whole
parish of Galashiels is hilly; but the hills expand on
wide bases, and have in general rounded tops and a soft
outline. They yield a good quantity of land to the
plough and for plantation, and all'ord excellent pasture-
land for sheep, and they are usually separated from each
other by beautiful narrow valleys. The principal heights
are, in the Boldside portion, Meigle Hill (1387 feet),
Mossilee Hill (1204), Neidpath Hill (1203), Blakehope
Hill (1099), and Gala Hill (904); in the Lindean portion,
I'auMshiels Hill (1076 feet), White Law (1059), Lindean
Moor (968), and Broad Hill (943). Greywacke and clay
slate are the prevailing rocks, and these furnish most of
the local building material. Ironstone has been found,
but no quantity of sandstone, limestone, or coal. Tho
soil along the river banks is sandy, on the rising-ground
N of the Tweed dry and gravelly; and on similar ground
S of the Tweed it has a considerable admixture of clay
resting upon till. Some small patches of table-land,
distant from the rivers, have black mould. Nearly
one-third of the land is arable; most of the remainder
is pasture, though a respectable number of acres is
under wood. Antiquities are represented by the begin-
ning of the CATKAIL, a reach of Roman road, the Rink
camp on the Rink Hill, relics of various other Roman
and Fictish fortifications, and FEK.NILEE Tower. Gala
House, a little S of the town, is a recent Scottish Baronial
edifice, one of the last works of the late David Bryce;
and another mansion is FALDOXSIDE; while a short dis-
tance from the town is ABBOTSFOKD, the beautiful seat
of Sir Walter Scott. In the presbytery of Selkirk and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale, this parish is ecclesi-
astically divided into Galashiels proper, West Church
quoad sacra parish, Ladhope quoad sacra parish, and
part of the quoad sacn parish of Caddonfoot, the first
a living worth 467. Under the landward school-board
is Lindeau public school, with accommodation for about
60 children, an average attendance of nearly 40, and a
grant of 40. Valuation ol landward portion (1892)
7256. Pop. (1891) 17,941, of whom 7460 were in the
ecclesiastical division of Galashiels, 8991 in that of West
Church, 6743 in that of Ladhope, and 156 in that of
Caddonfoot. Ord. Sur., sh. 25, 1865.
Gala Water, a river of Edinburgh, Selkirk, and Rox-
burgh shires, rising among the Moorfoot Hills in the
GALATOWN
first-named county, and joining the Tweed near Melrose,
after a course of 21 miles, during which it descends
from 1100 to 300 feet above sea-level. From its source
on the northern verge of Heriot parish, the Gala first
flows for 2 miles eastward, and thence takes a south-
south-easterly direction, which it maintains to the SE
border of Edinbnrghshire, successively traversing the
eastern portion of Heriot parish, tracing the boundary
between Heriot and Stow, and traversing the main body
of the last-named parish. At the junction of Heriot
and Stow parishes it receives, on the right, the Heriot
Water, and within the latter parish the Luggate Water
the former a tributary almost as large as the Gala
itself; on the left, the smaller affluents, Armit or Ermet
Water, Cockum Water, and Stow Burn. Its further
course lies in a south-easterly direction, chiefly along
the boundary between Roxburghshire and Selkirkshire,
till it reaches the Tweed, into which it falls a little
below Abbotsford, and about 24 miles W of Melrose.
The course of the Gala is remarkably sinuous; and the
road from Edinburgh to Jedburgh and Carlisle, which
traces the windings of the river along the E bank, is,
says Chambers, at least a third longer than the crow-
flight. An older road ran along the W bank; but the
North British railway line, which traverses almost the
entire length of the valley, crosses and recrosses the
stream several times. The river-basin consists for the
most part of a narrow valley flanked with rounded hills,
and presents scenery with all the usnal characteristics
of the Scottish Lowlands, alternating agricultural and
pastoral scenes with the rougher beauty of uncultivated
nature. At the beginning of the nineteenth century
the Gala dale was almost entirely pastoral and nearly
destitute of trees, but since then much of the ground
has been broken up by the plough, and numerous plan-
tations have arisen, in many cases as the protection or
ornament of the private mansions along the banks. Of
these last the chief are Crookston, Burnhousc, Torsoncc,
Rowland, Torwoodlee, and Gala. As a fishing-stream,
the Gala was once famous for the abundance of its trout;
now, however, it has been so much over-fished that a
considerable amount of time and skill are required,
though very fair takes may be secured above Gab.shii-ls.
the stream below the town being too dirty. The Gala
waters Stow village, and 2 miles of its course lie through
the busy town of Galashiels, whose mills sometimes in
summer draw off almost all the water from its natural
channel. There are several ruined castles and towers
in the valley of the river, and traces of perhaps a doxeu
ancient camps. The name Gala has been connected with
the Welsh ijanv, 'rough;' some authorities derive it
from the Gaelic gwn/a, meaning 'a full stream.' An
ancient name for the valley was Wedale, sometimes
explained as meaning the vale of woo, as having been
the scene of some sanguinary prehistoric struggle; others
connect it with the Norse Ve, a temple or church, and
translate the name 'holy house dale.' In Wedale Di-
skette places Guinnion, the scene of one of the twelve
battles of Arthur. Two ballads, one of them by Burns,
celebrate the 'braw lads o' Gala Water. 'Ord. Sur.,
sh. 25, 1865. See Sir Thomas Dick-Lander's Scottish
Rivers (Edinb. 1874).
Galatown. See GALLATOWN.
Galbraith. See Iscu GALDRAITH.
Galdry or Gauldry, a village in Balmerino parish,
Fife, on a plateau on the centre of a ridge of hill, 1} mile
5 of the Firth of Tay and 4 miles SW of Newport. It
has a Free church and a police station.
Gallangad, a burn of Dumbarton and Kilmaronoi-k
parishes, Dumbartonshire, rising near Dougnot Hill
(1228 feet), and winding 8J miles uorth-by-eastward,
till, near Drymcn station, it falls into Endrick Water.
During the last 2J miles of its course it traces the boun-
dary between Dumbarton and Stirling shires, and here
bears the name of Catter Burn. Ord. Sur., sh. 30, 1866.
Gallary. See GALLERY.
Gallatown, a suburban village in Dysart parish, Fife,
6 furlongs NNW of Dysart station, commencing at the
N end of Sinclairtown, and extending 4 mile northward
along the road from Kirkcaldy to Cupar. It is included
in the parliamentary bnrgh of Dysart, but (since 1876)
in the royal burgh of Kirkcaldy. Originally called Gal-
lowstown, it took that name either from the frequent
execution at it of criminals in feudal times, or from the
special execution of a noted robber about three centuries
ago; and it long was famous for the making of nails.
It now participates generally in the industry, resources,
and institutions of Sinclairtown ; and it has a Free church,
a public school, and a post office under Kirkcaldy.
Gallengad. See GALLANGAD.
Gallery, an estate, with a mansion, inLogiepert parish,
Forfarshire, on the right bank of the North Esk, 5 miles
NNW of Dubton Junction. Its owner is David Lyall,
Esq. (b. 1826). A hamlet, Upper Gallery, stands 3
miles nearer Dubton. Ord. Sur., sh. 57, 1868.
Gallow or Gala Lane, a rivulet of Kirkcudbright and
Ayr shires, issuing from the Dungeon Lochs, and running
6J miles north-by-eastward, chiefly along the mutual
boundary of the two counties, to the head of Loch
Doon. Ord. Sur., sh. 8, 1863.
Galloway, an extensive district in the south-western
corner of Scotland, which originally and for a consider-
able period included also parts of Ayrshire and Dum-
friesshire, but has for ages past been identified simply
and strictly with the shire of Wigtown and the stewartry
of Kirkcudbright. The name, though inextricably in-
terwoven with Scottish history, designates no political
jurisdiction, and is unsanctioued by the strict or civil
nomenclature of the country. The district is bounded
on the N by Ayrshire and Dumfriesshire, on the E by
Dumfriesshire, on the S by the Solway Firth and Irish
Sea, and on the W by the Irish Channel and Firth of
Clyde. Its greatest length, from E to W, is 63.', miles;
and its greatest breadth, from N to S, is 43 miles. It
is divided into three districts Upper Galloway, includ-
ing the northern and more mountainous parts of the
two shires; Lower Galloway, embracing the southern
and lowland sections E of Luce Bay; and the Rhinns of
Galloway, consisting of the peninsula SW of Luce Bay
and Loch Ryan. Galloway has long been famous as an
excellent pastoral district; and though its unsettled
condition long kept its agriculture in a'backward state,
the last hundred years have seen splendid progress
made. The Galloway breed of horses is celebrated, and
large droves of polled black cattle used to be reared for
the southern markets. Of late, however, Ayrshire
cattle have been superseding the native breed ; and
dairy-farming is coming into favour. The absence of
coal, lime, and freestone lias protected Galloway from
the erection of busy industrial or manufacturing centres.
The surface, on the whole, is undulating; and to quote
Mr Henry Inglis, ' there is no district of Scotland more
rich in romantic scenery and association, few which
possess the same combination of sterile grandeur and
arcadian beauty, and fewer still which are blessed with
a climate equal in mildness of temperature to that of
Galloway. The tulip-tree flourishes and flowers at St
.Mary's Isle, and the arbutus bears fruit at Kirkdale.'
But for all save historical details, wo must refer to our
articles on KlUKruDBKIGHTSHIBK and WIC.TOWNSHIUI:.
The district of Galloway was in early times held by
tribes of the nation of the Brigantes. Ptolemy, writing
in the 2d century of our era, calls them Novantes and
Sclgovae. The former occupied the country W of the
Nith, and had two towns Lucopibia at Whithorn, and
Rerigonium (see BEREGONIUM) on the E shore of Loch
Ryan. The Selgovfe or Elgovse lay to the E, extend-
ing over Dumfriesshire, and their towns were Trimon-
tium, Uxellum, Corda, and Carli.-intorigum, whose sites
Dr Skene finds respectively on Birrcnswark Hill, on
Wardlaw Hill, at Sanquhar, and at the Moat of Urr,
between the Nith and Dee. A large amount of ethno-
logical controversy has been waged over these peoples;
some authorities recognising in them a Gothic, others a
Cymric, and others a Gaelic race. The authority we
have just named considers them to have been Celtic
tribes of the Gaelic branch. Intercepted by the Britons
of Strathclyde from their northern Gaelic relations, and
GALLOWAY
surrounded in their little corner by a natural girdle of
sea and mountain, this people 'long retained their
individuality. They were known as the Picts of
Galloway centuries after the word Pict had disappeared
elsewhere from the country ; and they appeared under
that name as a division of the Scottish army at the
Battle of the Standard in 1138. We know little con-
cerning Galloway in Roman times. Agricola, overrun-
ning it in 79 A.D., added it to the Roman province in
Britain, and Roman military remains are tolerably
frequent in certain districts. In 397 it is related that
St Ninian built a church at Candida Casa, formerly
Lucopibia, dedicated it to St Martin of Tours, and
began the conversion of the Picts. After the departure
of the Romans from Britain, Galloway appears, from
the evidence of topographical names and old chronicles,
to have been governed by a series of Pictish kings ; but
probably early in the 7th century the Northumbrian
rulers of Bernicia brought it under their sovereignty,
and for several centuries remained the nominal superiors
of its lords. There is no authority for the common
narrative of immigrations of Irish Celts into Galloway
during the 8th and following centuries. It is at this
period that the modern name emerges. The district
was known to the Irish as Gallgaidel or Gallgaidhel,
and to the Welsh as Galwyddel, from the Celtic gall, ' n
stranger ; ' and the name, besides indicating the land of
strangers, seems to have some reference also to the fact
that the Gaelic population was under the rule of the
Anglian Galle or strangers. From the above terms
came Gallweithia, Galwethia, and many other forms,
Latinised as Gallovidia, and appearing now as Galloway.
Towards the end of the 8th century the power of the
Angles began to decline. Bede, who gives to the
Gallowegian Picts the alternative name of Niduari from
Nid or Nith, like Novante from Novius, the name
under which Ptolemy knew the same river, relates that
one of the four bishoprics into which Northumbria was
divided had its seat at Candida Casa. The first bishop
was appointed in 727 ; the Angles appear to have been
too weak to appoint another after Beadulf about 796.
The Northmen, who first appeared in England in this
century, did not overlook Galloway ; and there is some
ground for believing that the Gallowegians themselves
partly adopted a piratical life. During tin
or three centuries Galloway was probably ruled by
native rulers in tolerably complete independence ; and
it had the honour of being the locality whence Kenneth
mac Alpin emerged to obtain the throne of Scotia.
About the middle of the llth century the name Galweya
was used to include the whole country from Solway to
Clyde. In the Orkneyinga Saga, which narrates'the
history of the Norwegian Jaii Thorlinn, a contemporary
of Macbeth, Galloway is referred to under the name of
Gadgeddli ; and it probably formed one of the nine
earldoms that Thorfinn possessed in Scotland. Malcolm
Ceannmor, who succeeded to the throne of Scotia in
1057, recovered Galloway from the Norse supremacy,
though it is probable that many Northmen remained in
the district. In 1107, David, youngest son of Malcolm
Ceannmor, received Scotland S of the Forth and Clyde
as an earldom ; and in the charter which he granted in
1113 to the newly-founded monastery of Selkirk, he
assigned to the monks the tenth of his ' can ' or dues
from Galweia. David's ascent of the Scottish throne in
1124 may be regarded as the date of the union of
Galloway with Scotland.
Various attempts have been made to furnish Galloway
with a line of independent lords during the earlier parts
of its obscure history, and we even hear of a certain
Jacob, Lord of Galloway, as having been one of the
eight reguli who met Edgar at Chester in 973. But all
these efforts are entirely uuauthentic, and are based
upon comparatively modern authorities. From the
reign of David I. we are on more historical ground.
After the death of Ulgric and Duvenald, described as
the native leaders of the Galwenses, at the Battle of the
Standard in 1138, Fergus, who may possibly have been
of Norwegian connections, was appointed first Earl of
GALLOWAY
Galloway. This powerful noble married Elizabeth, a
natural daughter of Henry I. of England. In, 1160 he
joined Somerled, Norse ruler of Argyll, in a revolt
against Malcolm IV., but was subdued after three
battles and compelled to resign his lordship to his sons.
He retired as canon regular to Holyrood, where he died
in the following year. His gifts and endowments to
Holyrood Abbey were very extensive ; and that house
possessed more lands in the stewartry than any other.
Uchtred and Gilbert, sons and successors of Fergus,
accompanied King William the Lyon on his expedition
to England in 1173 ; but when he was taken prisoner
they hurried home, expelled with cruel slaughter the
English and Norman inhabitants of Galloway, and
attempted to establish their independence of the Scottish
government, even offering to swear fealty to England.
William, on his release in 1174, marched at once to
Galloway, where, however, Gilbert, who had cruelly
murdered his brother at Loch Fergus, made humble
submission and gave hostages. Gilbert died in 1185,
and Roland, son of the murdered Uchtred, succeeded,
after first quelling a revolt under Gilpatrick, and sub-
duing Gilcolm, a powerful freebooter, who had invaded
Galloway. Duncan, the son of Gilbert, received the
earldom of Carrick. Roland married Elena, daughter
of the Constable of Scotland, and eventually succeeded
to his father-in-law's high office. It is said that Roland
swore allegiance to Henry II. of England for the lands
of Galloway, and that the English monarchs continued to
look upon that district as part of their lawful dominions.
Alan succeeded his father in 1200 as Lord of Gallo-
way. He assisted King John in his Irish expedition in
1-211, and appeared as one of the barons who extorted
the Magna Charta from that king. Later, however, he
returned to his Scotch allegiance, and succeeded to his
father's office of constable. He died in 1234, leaving
three daughters and an illegitimate son. On the king's
refusal either to accept the lordship himself or to pre-
vent the partition of the land among the Norman hus-
bands of the three heiresses, the Gallowegians rose in
fierce revolt, and were with difficulty reduced to
obedience in 1235. Roger de Quincy, husband of Elena,
Alan's eldest daughter, received the lordship. This
strict enforcement of the rule of legitimate succession
marks the transition in Galloway from the Brehon law
to feudalism. From that date lands began to be held by
charter and lease, the rights of property began to be
more secure, and agriculture began to be attempted.
De Quincy died in 1264. In 1291, when the Scot-
tish succession was disputed after the death of the
Maid of Norway, one-half of the lordship of Galloway
belonged to John Baliol, a sou of Alan by Margaret,
granddaughter of David I. ; the other half was shared
by William de Ferrers, Alan de Zouch, and Alexander
Comyn, Earl of Buchan, husbands of the three daughters
of De Quincy. Of the three last Comyn alone is of im-
portance in the history of Galloway. The Gallowegians,
during the wars of the succession, naturally sided with
the Comyns and the Baliols, and speedily shared in
their disasters. When John Baliol was obliged to resign
his dependent crown, Edward I. considered Galloway as
his own ; and he immediately appointed over it a
governor and a justiciary, disposed of its ecclesiastical
benefices, and obliged the sheriffs and bailiffs to account
for the rents and profits of their bailiwicks in his ex-
chequer at Berwick. In 1296 he granted to Thomas of
Galloway all the lands, etc., that had been granted to
him there by his father Alan ; and at the same time ho
restored all their former liberties and customs to the
men of Galloway. In 1297, Wallace is said to have
marched into the west ' to chastise the men of Gallo-
way, who had espoused the party of the Comyns, and
supported the pretensions of the English ; ' and a field
in the farm of Borland, above the village of Mining!]',
still bears the name of Wallace's camp. Durin<* his
campaign of 1300, Edward I. marched from Carlisle
through Dumfriesshire into Galloway ; and though
opposed first by the remonstrances, and next by tho
warlike demonstrations of the people, he overran the
GALLOWAV
whole of the low country from the Nith to the Cree,
pushed forward a detachment to Wigtown, and compelled
the inhabitants to submit to his yoke. In 1307, Robert
I. marched into Galloway, and wasted the country, the
people having refused to repair to his standard; but he
was obliged speedily to retire. In the following year,
Kd'.vard Bruce, the king's brother, invaded the district,
defeated the chiefs in a pitched battle near the Dee,
overpowered the English commander, reduced the
several lortlets, and at length subdued the entire terri-
tory. Galloway was immediately conferred on him by
the king, as a reward for his gallantry; but after the
death of Alexander, his illegitimate son, whom the king
had continued in the lordship, in 1333, it reverted to
the crown. When Edward Baliol entered Scotland to
renew the pretensions of his father, Galloway became
again the wretched theatre of domestic war. In 1334,
assisted and accompanied by Edward III., he made his
way through this district into the territories to the N,
and laid them waste as far as Glasgow. In 1347, in
consequence of the defeat and capture of David II. at
the battle of Durham, Baliol regained possession of his
patrimonial estates, and took up his residence in Buittle
Castle, the ancient seat of his family. In 1347, heading
a levy of Gallowegians, and aided by an English force.
he invaded Lanarkshire and Lothian, and made Scotland
feel that the power which had become enthroned in
Galloway was a scourge rather than a protection. In
1353, Sir William Douglas overran Baliol's territories,
and compelled M'Dowal, the hereditary enemy of the
Braces, to renounce his English adherence and swear
fealty to his lawful sovereign. After the restoration
of David II. and the expulsion of Baliol, Archibald
Douglas the Grim obtained, in 1369, Eastern and
Middle Galloway, or Kirkcudbrightshire, in a grant
from the crown, and, less than two years after, Western
Galloway, or Wigtownshire, by purchase from Thomas
Fleming, Earl of Wigtown. This illegitimate but most
ambitious son of the celebrated Sir James Douglas ob-
tained, at the death of his father, in 1388, on the field
of Otterburn, the high honours and the original estates
of the house of Douglas; and now, while holding in
addition the superiority of all Galloway, became the
most powerful as well as the most oppressive subject nf
Scotland. On an islet in the Dee, surmounting the
site of an ancient fortlet, the residence of former lords of
Galloway, he built the strong castle of Threave, whence
lie and his successors securely delied the enemies that
their violence and oppression raised against them.
About the middle of the 15th century one of those earls
of Douglas and lords of Galloway carried his lawless in-
solence so far as, on the occasion of a quarrel, to seize
Sir Patrick Maclellan of Bombie, the sheriff of Galloway,
and to hang him ignominiously as a felon in Threave
Castle. The Douglases experienced some reverses, and
were more than once sharply chastised in their own
persons, yet they continued to oppress the Gallowegians,
to disturb the whole country, and even to overawe and
defy the crown, till their turbulence ami treasons ended
in their forfeiture. James, the ninth and last earl, and
all his numerous relations, rose in rebellion in 1453;
and, two years afterwards, were adjudged by parlia-
ment, and stripped of their immense possessions.
The lordship of Galloway with the earldom of Wigtown
was annexed to the crown, and in 1469 was conferred,
with other possessions, upon Margaret of Denmark-, as
part of her dowry when she married James II. But
although the king had introduced a milder and juster
rule, the troubles of Galloway were not yet over. For
some time after the fall of the Douglases it was occa-
sionally distracted by the feuds of petty chiefs, fan. i lin r-ly
known by the odd name of 'Neighbour Weir.' Early
in the 16th century a deadly feud between Gordon of
Lochinvar and Dunbar of Mochrum led to the slaughter
of Sir John Dunbar, who was then steward of Kirkcud-
bright; and, during the turbulent minority of James
V.. another feud between Gordon of Lochinvar and
llaclellan of Bombie led to the slaughter of the latter
at the door of St Giles's Church in Edinburgh. In
GALLOWAY, MULL OF
1547, during the reign of Mary, an English army over-
ran Eastern Galloway, and compelled the submission of
the principal inhabitants to the English government;
and after the defeat of Langside, Mary is incorrectly said
to have sought shelter in DUXDRENNAN Abbey, previous
to her flight into England across the Solway. In the
following month (June 1568) the regent Moray entered
the district to punish her friends; and ho enforced the
submission of some and demolished the houses of others.
In 1570, when Elizabeth wished to overawe and punish
the friends of Mary, her troops, under the Earl of Moray
and Lord Scrope, overran and wasted Annandale and
part of Galloway. As the men of Annandale, for the
most part, stood between the Gallowegians and harm,
they expected to receive compensation from their western
neighbours for their service; and when they were re-
fused it, they repaid themselves by plundering the dis-
trict. The people of Galloway warmly adopted the
Covenant, and suffered much in the religious perse-
cutions of the time. The story of the martyrs of
Wigtown will be told elsewhere. The rising that was
crushed by General Dalziel, in 1666, at Rullion Green
had its beginning at Dairy in Kirkcudbrightshire.
Among the strict Cameronians and 'wild western
\Vhi"s ' the men of Galioway were represented. In a
happier a-e Loch Ryan sheltered William lll.'s fleet on
his voyage to Ireland in 1690; and since then the his-
tory of Galloway has mainly consisted in the advance
of agriculture and of the social condition of the
people.
Galloway gives name to a synod of the Church of
Scotland, a synod of the Free Church of Scotland, and
to a presbytery of the United Presbyterian Church. The
former synod, meeting at Newton-Stewart, and includ-
ing the presbyteries of Stranraer, Wigtown, and Kirk-
cudbright, com] irises the whole of Wigtownshire and all
Kirkcudbrightshire W of the river Urr, besides Ballan-
traeand Colmonell parishes in Ayrshire. Pop. (1871)
67,280, (1881) 66,738, (1891) 62,845, of whom 16,589
were communicants of the Church oi Scotland in 1895.
The Free Church synod, having the same limits, with
the exclusion of the two Ayrshire parishes, and divided
into three presbyteries of the same names as above, had
4480 members in 1894; whilst the United Presbyterian
presbytery bad 1452. The pre-Reformation Church of
Scotland had a sec of < lulloway, with a church at WHIT-
HORN; and the present Roman Catholic Church has a
diocese of Galloway, re-established in 1878. The Episco-
pal Church has a unite, [diocese of G lasgow and Galloway.
See Andrew Symson's Description of O/A.;v
mdclxxxiv. (1823); Thomas Murray's Lilrrarii Histor ,i
of Galloway (1822); William Mackenzie's History of
Galloway (2 vols., Kirkc., 1841); Sir Andrew Agnew's
History of the //or.///,,,',/ .Sheriffs of (,'ul.lowny (1864, 2d.
ed., 2 vols., 1893); P. H. MacKerli.'s ///.stony of the,
Lands and /! ir Uicners in Gal'oimi/ (5 vols., 1870-78),
and Galloway in Ancient and .!/,/,-/// Times (1891);
Harper's Rambles in Galloway (1876); Sir Herbert Max-
well's Studies on the Topography of Galloway (1887); and
Maxwell's Guide Hook to the ^tewartry of Kirkcudbright.
Galloway House, the family seat of the Earls of Gal-
loway in Sorbie parish, BE Wigtownshire, within J mile
of Ri"g or CRUGOLETON Bay, and 1 J SE of Garliestown
station, this being 9J miles SSE of Wigtown. Built in
1740, it is a plain large edifice, with projecting wings, a
fine conservatory, beautiful gardens, and a nobly wooded
park; and it commands a magnificent prospect of the
shores of Wigtown Bay and the Solway Firth, away to
the Isle of Man and the far, blue Cumberland mountains.
Within hang thirty family portraits, beginning with Sir
Alexander Stewart, who was thirteenth descendant of
Alexander, fourth lord high steward of Scotland, through
his younger son, Sir John Stewart of Bonkill or Bunkle>
and the Stewarts of Dalswinton and GARLIES, and who
in 1607 was created Lord Garlics, in 1623 Earl of Gallo-
way. Alan Plantagenet-Stewart is the present and tenth
Earl (b. 1835; sue. 1873). Ord. Sur., sh. 4, 1857.
Galloway, Mull of, a precipitous headland, forming
the southernmost point of the Rhinns of Galloway, and
GALLOWAY. NEW
to of Scotland (lat. 54 38' N, long. 4 53' W), in Kirk-
maiden parish, S\V \Vieio\vnshi.e. By water it is 28
miles E by N of Ireland, 22.J NNW of the Isle of Man,
and 50 W by N of Cumberland; whilst by road it is 5
miles S by E of Drumore and 22J SSE of Stranraer. Ex-
tending 1 J mile eastward, and froml j to 3 furlongs broad,
it rises to 210 feet above sea-level at its eastern extrem-
ity, which is crowned by a lighthouse that, 86 feet high,
was erected in 1 828-30 at a cost of 8378. Its light, sup-
ew apparatus of 1880, is intermittent, visible
clipsed for 15 seconds; and can be seen at a
distance of 25 nautical miles. ' The prospect from the
lighthouse.' saysMrM'Ilraith, 'is very tine. TotheNare
the fields of Cardryne, Cardrain, and Mull. Away to the
eastward stretches the bay of Luce, with the rocky s
ing through the sea mist; and beyond are the out-
s of the Machars and Minnigaff Hills. Southward is
the wild blue sea, and on the horizon, very ilain in clear
weather, is the Isle of Man. Ireland is discernible in
the glittering west.' The Novanlai of Ptolemy, the Mull
retains remains of considerable earthworks, Scandinavian
probably; whilst, according to tradition, it was the last
asylum of the two last of the 1'icts ' short wee men they
were, wi' red hair and long arms, and feet sae braid that
when it rained they could turn them up owre their he;uls,
and then they served for umbrellas.' How they did not
reveal their mystery of brewing heather ale is delight-
fully told in Chambcrs's Popular Rh^iifx, though there
the story is not localised. Half a mile N of the narrow
neck that joins the Mull to the mainland, at the foot of
the steep dill's, is St Medan's Cave or the Old Chapel at
the Mull, of which the late Mr T. S. Muir wrote that
' the cave is very small, its length being only 11 feet, its
greatest width rather over 9, and the roof so low as
scarcely to admit of an upright posture under it. In
the making of the chapel, which joins to in front as the
nave, so to speak, of the chancel-like cell, it is curious
to observe how largely the labour has been economised
by using the rocks, which, rising perfectly upright and
oth, form its two side walls. The builded walls,
ature's fin
ahing, enclose an i
ly 15 feet by 1H, are of great thickness, and
'.vhirh, with those of
of n
composed principally of clay slate,
- - - >nu_i f. ;:,. +1.
11 put together, but
ithout lime. Tha't fronting the sea, now little more
than breast high, has a narrow window at about its
middle, and there is a, pretty wide doorway, wanting the
Jintel, close to the rock-wall on the S. The rear wall,
covering the face of the crag, rises much higher, and
may perhaps be as hi"h as ever it was; but on no part
of it is there any trace of a, roof.' Hard by is the Well
of the Co, or Chapel Well; and here, on the first Sunday
in May, the country people used to assemble, at no such
remote period, to bathe in the well, leave gifts in the
cave, and pass the day in gossiping and amusements.
Ord. ,Sia:, sh. 1, 1S56. See pp. 2.->:!-2:.. r > of M. Harper's
JlmnMrx in flitHim-Hii (Ivlinb. 1876), aud pp. 139-142 of
W. M'llraith's Wigtownshire (2d ed., Dumf., 1877).
Galloway, New, a royal and police burgh in the
parish of Kells, Kirl;eudl.righl:-.liire, is situated on the
right bank of the Ken, at the intersection of the road
from Kirkcudbright to Ayrshire with that from Newton-
Stewart to Dumfries, 174 nril<* NE by E of Newton-
Stewart, 19 NNW of Kirkcudbright, 25 W of Dum-
fries, and 38 Sli of Ayr. It stands, 200 feet above
sea-level, at the foot of an irregular ridge of ground
in the vicinity of Kenmure Castle; and it is sur-
roiinded by charming and picturesque scenery. Loch
Ken, 1J mile SSE, and the neighbouring streams are
good trouting waters. Although New Galloway is a
place of municipal dignity, it can hardly be described
as more than a village. It consists lor the most part
of a main street running N and S, cut by a cross street
about half as long running E and W, and a scanty
sprinkling of detached hou.-cs; while the business of the
place is confined to the local domestic and handicraft
branches. The burgh is clean and neat. It has a post
office, with money order, savings bank, and telegraph
departments, a branch of the Clydesdale bank, a reading-
ud two hotels. At the centre or cross stands the
room,
72
GALLOWFLAT
town-hall, with a neat spire, and a clock placed thorn
in 1872 by subscription. Half a mile N, but not within
the royalty, the parish church of Kells, built in 1822,
raises its neat stone front and square tower. In the
cemetery is an old monument in a granite setting to the
memory of a martyred Covenanter. A handsome stone
bridge of five arches, erected in the same year as the
church, spans the river i mile to the E. The station of
New Galloway is about 6 miles SSE of the town; and a
'bus runs between them daily. A sort of suburb of the
burgh, in the form of a number of detached cottages,
called the Mains of Kenmure, lies scattered to the K
between the town and the bridge.
King Charles I. bestowed upon Sir John Gordon of
Lochinvar a charter, dated 15 Jan. 1629, empowering
him to create a royal burgh of Galloway on his estates
in Kirkcudbrightshire. The site fixed upon was probably
St John's Clauchan of Dairy, but no settlement seems to
have followed this first charter, which was changed by
another charter under the Great Seal, dated 19 Nov.
1630, and confirmed by Act of Parliament in June 1633.
Seal of New Galloway.
Under this latter charter the present site was selected,
and the burgh privileges seem to have soon attracted n
few settlers; but the place could never acquire any trade
or manufacture, and the inhabitants were for the most
part simple mechanics, agricultural labourers, and a few
ale-house and shop keepers, while the houses were, even
at the beginning of the nineteenth century, low, ill built,
straw-thatched, and often dilapidated. Since then,
however, the appearance of the houses and the social
condition of the people have made considerable advances.
By charter the corporation of the burgh was to comprise
a provost, 4 bailies, dean of guild, treasurer, and 12
councillors; but by the sett, as reported to and sanc-
tioned by the convention of royal burghs on 15 July
1708, the council was then declared to consist of 1 pro-
vost, 2 bailies, a treasurer, and 15 councillors. In 1832
the entire parliamentary constituency, as enrolled, was
14, and consequently it was quite impossible to supply a
council of the usual number. The burgh had a par-
liamentary constituency of 71, and a municipal of 105
in 1896, and formerly united with Wigtown, Stranraer,
and Whithorn in returning a member to parliament;
but in 1885, along with that of those burghs, its repre-
sentation was merged in that of the county. By the
Burgh Police (Scotland) Act, 1892, it has 9 commis-
sioners, including a provost and 2 bailies. Fairs are
held here on the first Thursday after 12 April o. s.,
and on the Thursday of August before Lockerbie. The
sheriff's court is held three times a year. The Kells
parochial school, at New Galloway, with accommoda-
tion for 190 scholars, has an average attendance of
about 100, and a grant of about 100. Valuation (1875)
896, (1882) 1044, (1896) 1262. Pop. of police burgh
(1881) 422, (1891) 391, of whom 216 were females; and of
royal bur^h (1891) 374. Houses, inhabited 91, vacant 8,
building 6. Ord. Sur., sh. 9, 1863.
Gallowflat, an estate, with a mansion, in Rutherglen
GALLOWGREEN
parish, Lanarkshire. It is now partly feued and built
upon as an extension of the burgh of Ruthergleu. An
ancient tumulus here was surrounded by a fosse, out of
which a fish-pond was formed in 1773, when a paved
passage, 6 feet broad, was discovered leading up to the
top of the tumulus.
Gallowgreen. See PAISLEY.
Gallowhill, a hamlet, with a public, school, in Alford
parish, Aberdcenshire, IJmileW by S of Alford village.
Galston, a town and" a parish in the NE of Kyle
district, Ayrshire. The town stands chiefly on the
southern bank of the river Irvine, and on the New-
inilus branch <>f the Glasgow and South-Western rail-
way, 1 mile SSW of Loudoun Castle, 2 miles W by S
of Newmilns, and 5 E by S of Kilmarnock, under
which it has a post office, with money order, savings
bank, insurance, and telegraph departments. Its site
is low, surrounded by gentle rising-grounds, and over-
hung on the N by the woods and braes of Loudoun;
and with its charming environs it presents a very
pleasing appearance. A fine stone three-arch bridge
across the Irvine unites a Loudoun suburb to the town,
which long was a mere hamlet or small village, main-
tained chiefly by the making of shoes for exportation
through Kilmarnock. It acquired sudden increase of
bulk and gradual expansion into town by adoption of
lawn and gauze weaving for the manufacturers of Paisley
ami Glasgow, and had 40 looms at work in 1792, 460 in
1828. Weaving is still the staple industry, there being
several muslin and blanket factories, besides saw-mills
and a paper-millboard factory; and Galston wields a con-
siderable local influence as the centre of an extensive
coalfield and of an opulent agricultural district. It has
a station, branches of the British Linen Co. and Union
banks, numerous inns and hotels, a gaswork, a cemetery,
co-operative, temperance, and Good Templars' halls,
and a newspaper, the Weekly Supplement and Adver-
tiser (Fridays). Fairs are held on the third Thursday
of April, the first Thursday of June, and the last Wed-
nesday of November. The parish church, erected in
1808, has a spire and clock, and there is a mission church
in connection with it. Other places of worship are a
Free church (1888, costing 2500), a V.f. church, an
Evangelical Union chapel, and St Sophia Roman Ca-
tholic church, in the Byzantine style, opened in 1886,
and costing upwards of 10,000, the gift of the Marquis
of Bute. Blair's Free School, an elegant massive edifice,
affords education and clothing to 120 boys and girls for
a term of four years; under the Endowment Act it is now
incorporated with the public schools. Brown's Institute,
built by Miss Brown of Lanfine in 1874 at a cost of over
3000, comprises reading and recreation rooms, with a
library of nearly 3000 volumes. In 1893 the linrgh
Police (Scotland) Act of 1892 came into operati
hich the town is governed by a provost, 2 bailies,
commissioners. Pop. (1881) 4085,
hom 447 were in Loudoun parish.
, ,
(1891) 4290, of
The parish, containing also the hamlet of ALI.ANTON,
with parts of the villages of XKWMILXS and DARVEL, is
bounded N by Kilmarnock and Loudoun, E by Avon-
dale in Lanarkshire, S by Sorn and Mauchline, and W
by Riccarton. The Boundary Commissioners in 1891
effected an exchange of territory between the two par-
ishes of Galston and Riccarton. So much of the former
as lay to the west of the western fence of the Glasgow
and South-Western railway from Kilmarnock to Dum-
fries was transferred to Ricearton, while so much of the
latter as lay to the east of the west boundary of the
estate of Jlilrig was transferred to Galston. Galston
parish thus received the east portion of the former de-
tached part of Riccarton, while the remainder of this
detached part was joined to the main portion of Riccarton
by the annexation of the intervening Galston portion.
AVON Water, rising in the south-eastern corner, runs 4J
miles north-eastward along the Lanarkshire border.
CESSNOCK Water, at three different points, traces 7J
furlongs of the boundary with Mauchline, 2J miles of
that with Craigie, and Ig mile of that with Riccarton;
whilst the river IRVINE, from a little below its source,
GAMESCLEUCH
flows 10 miles westward on or close to all the northern
boundary, and from the interior is joined by Logan
Burn, Burn Anne, and several lesser tributaries. Where,
in the NW, it quits the parish, the surface declines to
less than 140 feet above sea-level, thence rising to 359
feet near Millands, 566 near Sornhill, 618 at Molmont,
797 near Burnhead, 965 near Greenfield, 1054 near
Hardhill, 982 at Tulloch Hill, and 1259 at DISTINK-
HORN. A strip of rich alluvial level, highly fertile
and well cultivated, lies all along the Irvine; a belt of
brae, largely covered with woodland, extends southward
from the alluvial level to the distance of 2J miles; and
and hills which, bleak and sterile till 1810, are now
variously arable land, good pasture, or covered with
plantation. In the extreme E and SE is a considerable
tract of high upland, mostly carpeted with heath or
moss, and commanding magnificent prospects over all
Cunninghame, most of Kyle, and a great part of Carrick,
away to Arran and the dim distant
Loch Gait, at the eastern
deep water, but now is
t of Ireland.
tremity, was once a sheet of
rsh; and Loch Bruntwood,
too, in the south-western extremity, has been completely
drained. The rocks are partly eruptive, partly car-
boniferous. Trap rock appears on the summits and
shoulders of many of the hills; coal is largely mined in
the W; sandstone, of a kind suitable for paving and
roofing flag, is quarried; and limestone also is worked.
Agate and chalcedony are often found at Molmont; and
a beautiful stone, called the 'Galston pebble,' occurs in
the upper channel of Burn Anne. The soil ranges in
character, from rich alluvium to barren moor. Nearly
two-thirds of all the land are arable; woods and planta-
tions cover some 1000 acres; and the rest is either
pastoral or mossy. An ancient Caledonian stone circle
at Molmont has been destroyed; in the E of the parish
a Roman coin of Csesar Augustus was discovered in
1831 ; and here an extensive Roman camp above
Allanton has left some traces. Sir William Wallace
fought a victorious skirmish with the English at or
near this camp ; he had several places of retirement
among the eastern uplands of Galston and Loudoun ;
and he has bequeathed to a hill in the former, and to a
ravine in the latter, the names of respectively Wallace's
Cairn and Wallace's Gill. The 'Patio's Mill' of song
is in the neighbourhood of Galston town. There are also
CESSXOCK CASTLE, Lanfine House, and Ban- Castle, the
ancient seat of the Lockharts, a stately pile, sometimes
also called Lockhart's Tower. Giving off since 1874 a
portion to Hurlford quoad sacra parish, Galston is in
the presbytery of Ayr and synod of Glasgow and Ayr.
The value of the living is returned as 386. Three
public schools Allanton, Barr. and Galston and St
Sophia Roman Catholic, with respective accommodation
for 46, 436, 591, and 121 children, have an average
attendance of about 13, 310, 512, and 62, and grants of
about 15, 310, 533, and 58. Pop. of civil parish
(1881) 5961, (1891) 6408; of ecclesiastical parish (1891)
6287. Ord. Sur., shs. 22, 23, 1865.
Galtway, an ancient parish in Kirkcudbrightshire,
united about the year 1683 to Kirkcudbright, and now
forming the central part of that parish. It contained
the priory of St Mary's Isle, subordinate to Holyrood
abbey, and its church and lands, till the Reformation,
belonged to that priory. Its church stood on high
ground, 2 miles SSE of Kirkcudbright town, measured
30 feet by 15, and has left some traces of its walls;
whilst the churchyard, now completely engirt by plan-
tation, and presenting a very sequestered appearance, is
still used by the Selkirk family.
Galval or Gouldwell Castle. See BOIIAKM.
Gamescleuch, a ruined tower in Ettrick parish, Sel-
kirkshire, near the right bank of Ettrick Water, 1J mile
E of Ettrick church. It was built about the middle of
the 16th century by Simon, second son to Sir John Scott
of Thirlestane, Lord Napier's ancestor; but, according
to tradition, was never occupied, Simon having been
poisoned by his stepmother the night before his mar-
riage. A burn on which it stands has a north-westward
GAMESHOPE
run of Ig mile, and is flanked, on the right side, by
Gamescleuch Hill, rising to an altitude of 1490 feet
above sea-level. ^-Ord. Sur., sh. 16, 1864.
Gameshope, a small lake (1 x g furl.) and a burn in
Tweedsmuir parish, Peeblesshirc. Lying 1 850 feet above
sea-level, within 1J mile of the Dumfriesshire border,
and 2 miles NE of the summit of Hartfell, it occupies
a lofty upland hollow, and is the highest tarn in all the
Southern Highlands. The burn, rising close to the
Dumfriesshire border, 2 miles E by N of the summit
of Hartfell, runs 4| miles north-by-westward; receives,
at a point 1J mile from its source, a short small affluent
from the loch; and falls into Talla Water at a point 3
miles SE of that stream's influx to the Tweed. Both
the loch and the burn abound in excellent dark-coloured
trout Ord. Sur., sh. 16, 1864.
Gamhair. See GAUIR.
Gamhna, a lake in the W of Rothiemurchus, Inver-
ness-shire, 1 furlong SE of Loch-an-Eilein. Lying 895
feet above sea-level, it has an utmost length and breadth
of 3$ and 1| furlongs, and is encircled by tall, dark
Smttish pines. Ord. Sur., sh. 74, 1877.
Gamrie (12th century Gamenjn), a coast parish of
Banllshire, containing the post-town, seaport, and
police burgh of MACDUFF, with the fishing villages of
GARDENS-TOWN and CIIOVIE. It belongs to Buchan
district, and comprises in itself the north-eastern exten-
sion of Banlfehire. It is bounded N by the Moray
Firth, E and SE by Aberdour in Aberdecnshire, S by
King Edward in Aberdcenshire, and W by Alvah and
Banff. Its utmost length, from E to W, is 8J miles;
its breadth, from N to S, varies between 1 J and 41 miles;
and its area is 17,293i acres, of which 240 are foreshore
and 11 water. Torr Burn, running to the sea, traces
for 3J miles the eastern boundary; and Logic Hum,
running in a landward direction to fall eventually into
the 1 leveron, follows part of the Alvah border; whilst
the Deveron itself, immediately above its influx to the
sea, separates Gamrie from Banff. Numerous burns
drain the interior, some of them running to the sea,
others belonging to the Deveron's basin, and most
of them traversing romantic dells. Not a drop of water
runs into Gamrie from any other parish ; but all its
burns cither rise within itself or merely touch its bor-
ders; and several of them are highly interesting for
either the fit fulness of their course, the beauty of their
falls, or the utility ot their water-power. Towards the
SE is a very small lake, the Standing Loch, which lies
in a hollow engirt by hillocks, nearly the highest ground
wild geese. A mineral spring, 'called Tarlair Well, is
on the coast near Mac-dull', ami has enjoyed considerable
medicinal repute. The coast, if one follows its bends,
measures fully 10 miles in extent, and is one of an
exceedingly grand and picturesque character, attaining
366 feet at Troup Head, 363 at Crovie Law, 536 near
More Head, and 4u4 at Melrose Law. A rocky ram-
part, in some places perpendicular, in nearly all pre-
cipitous, presents almost everywhere characteristics of
considerable sublimity and grandeur. Parts of it are
inaccessible to the loot of man, and others bend just
enough from the perpendicular to admit a carpeting of
greensward, and here and there are traversed by a wind-
ing footpath like a staircase, which few visitors would
be venturesome enough to scale. The summits of this
rampart are only a few furlongs broad, and variously
ascend or decline towards the S, then break down in
sudden declivities into ravines and dells, which run
parallel to the shore; and they command sublime views
of the ever-changeliil ocean to the N, and of a great
expanse ol plains and woods, of tumulated surfaces and
mountain-tops, to the S and W. Several deep chasms
cleave the rampart from top to bottom, and look like
stupendous rents made by shock of earthquake; they
open widely at the shore, and take the form of dells
toward the interior, and they have zigzag projections,
with protuberances on the one side corresponding to
depressions or hollows on the other. The most easterly
of these is at Cullykhan, near Troup House; another is
OAMEIE
at Crovie falling village; a third, the chief one, called
Aflbrsk Den, is at Gamrie old church; and the most
westerly, called Oldhaven, is between the lands of Mel-
rose and those of Cullen. Several caverns pierce the
sea-bases of the rocky rampart; and two of these, in the
neighbourhood of Troup, are of great extent and very
curious structure, and bear the singular names of Hell's
Lum and Needle's Eye. The villages of Gardenstown
and Crovie nestle on such contracted spots at openings
of the great rampart as to have barely standing room,
requiring even to project some of their houses into
shelves or recesses of the acclivities; and are so imme-
diately and steeply overhung by the braes, that persons
on the tops of the braes might fancy that they could
peer into the chimneys of the houses. The interior of
the parish, all southward from the summit of the coast
range of rampart, slopes away, mostly in a southerly or
south-westerly direction, to the basin of the Deveron,
and is finely diversified by hills, dells, and precipices,
rising to 588 feet above sea-level at Troup Hill, 652 at
the Torr of Troup, 643 near Dubford, 603 near Little-
moss, 558 near Millhow, and 461 near Headitown. The
rocks possess great interest for geologists, and have been
specially discussed or noticed by Sedgwick, Murchison,
Prestwick, Hugh Miller, and others. Granite has been
occasionally worked ; and greywacke, greywacke slate,
and clay slate, in exceedingly tilted, fractured, and con-
torted positions and mutual relations, predominate on
the seaboard and through much of the interior. The
greywacke is quarried for building purposes, and the
clay slate was formerly worked at Melrose as a coarse
roofing slate and slab-stone. Old Red sandstone, Old
Ked conglomerate, and Devonian shales also occur, but
rest so unconformably on the edges of the slates, and
present such faults and dislocations, that their connec-
tions with one another and with related rocks cannot
be easily determined. The soils vary from a fertile loam
to a barren benty heath; and those on the sandstone and
conglomerate are more fertile than those on the slate.
Woods cover some 750 acres; and of the rest about one-
half is under cultivation, the other either pastoral or
waste. Findon Castle, near the old church, is said to
have been garrisoned by a Scottish force to watch and
e Danes,
vasions by the
d now is represented
by only a green conical mound. The ruins, too, of
Wallace Tower, occupying the Ha' Hill upon Pitgair
farm, consist only of two detached masses of wall. Ves-
tiges and memoranda of Danish invasion are in numerous
places. Troup House, the chief mansion, is separately
noticed; and its owner divides the best part of the parish
with the Duke of Fife. In 1874 the estate ol Green-
skares was presented by Dr James Taylor to Aberdeen
University, the revenue to be applied to bursaries for
students belonging to or educated in Banllshire. In
the presbytery of Turriif and synod of Aberdeen, this
parish is divided ecclesiastically into Gamrie proper,
Gardenstown, and Macduff, the former a living worth
300. The ancient parisli church of Gamrie, St John's,
alleged to have been founded in 1004 by the Mormaer
of Buchan in place of one demolished by invading Danes,
and granted by William the Lyon to the monks of Ar-
broath between 1189 and 1198, is now an interesting
ruin, situated at the head of Gamrie Bay, on a hill-ter-
race in the mouth of Alforsk Den, 4 mile WSW of Gar-
denstown. It was used as a place of worship till 1830,
when the present parish church, 1J mile SSW of Gar-
denstown, was built. Other places of worship are a Free
church and those of Gardenstown and Macdulf ; and five
schools Bracoden, Clenterty, Longmanhill, Macdull',
and Macduff Murray's Institution with respective
accommodation for 400, 159, 103, 700, and 95 children,
have an average attendance of about 250, 100, 80, 750,
and 60, and grants of nearly 234, 95, 70, 655
and 56. Valuation (1882) 80,633, 19s. Id., (1891)
21.776, Os. 3d., (1893) 23,458, 9s. 9d., of which
1259 was for railways. Pop. of civil parish (1831)
4094, (1861) 6086, (1871) 6561, (1881) 6756, (1891)
7003; of q. s. parish (1881) 2652, (1891) 1334; of registra-
tion district (1881) 3106, (1891)2839. Ord. Sur.,sh. 96,
OANNEL BURN
1876. Sec chaps, viii., x., xi., of Samuel Smiles's Life
of a Scotch Naturalist (187C).
Gannel Burn. See GLOOMINGSIDE.
Gannochy, Bridge of. See FETTERCAIRN.
Ganuh or Gaineimh, a triangular lake (2 x 1J furl.)
in the upper part of Kildonan parish, Sutherland, 6 miles
W of Forsinard station. It abounds with trout and
char. Ord. Sur., sh. 109, 1878.
Garabost. See GARRABOST.
Garallan, a collier village, with a public school, in
Old Cumnock parish, Ayrshire, 2 miles SW of Cumnock.
Garan or Garanhill. See MUIRKIRK.
' Garan ur An Garbh - eilean, an islet of Durness
parish, Sutherland, 4J miles E by S of Cape Wrath, and
i mile from the shore. It measures 3 furlongs in circum-
ference and 60 feet in height, and is a crowded resort of
sea-fowl. Ord. Sur., sh. 114, 1880.
Garbh Allt, a mountain burn of liraemar. Aberdeen-
shire, formed by two head-streams that rise on Loch-
nagar, and running 1 mile north-by-westward to the
cauld
Dee,
ar, and running
, at a point J mile
E of Invercauld bridge. It i
impetuous stream, traversing a, romantic glen; and it
makes one splendid fall.
Garbh Allt, a mountain burn in Arran island, Bute-
shire. It rises, 4 miles NW of Brodick, on the eastern
side of Ben Tarsuinn, and runs 2i miles south-south-
eastward and east-by-northward down a wild and de-
clivitous glen, careering and leaping along a granite
channel in a series of striking falls, till it plunges head-
long into confluence with Glenrosie Water, at a point
2 miles WNW of Brodick. Ord Sur., sh. 21, 1870.
Garbh Bhreac, a lake (2xlJ furl.; 926 feet) in Kil-
tarlity parish, Inverncss-shirc, ;).', miles SSW of Erch-
less Castle. It abounds in trout.
Garbhdhun, a picturesque waterfall on the river
Gauir, in Fortingall parish, Perthshire.
Garbh Mheall. See FORTINGALL.
Garbhreisa, an islet of Craignish parish, Argyllshire.
The largest of a group of five, it is faced with dill's, and
Hanks one side of the strait called the Great Door.
See CKAIGXISH.
Garbh Uisge, a reach of the northern head-stream of
the river TeitH in Callander parish, Perthshire. Issuing
from Loch Lubnaig, and traversing the Pass of Leny,
it winds ;!; miles south-eastward, till, at a point 3 fur-
longs SW of Callander town, it unites with the Eas
Gobhain to form the Teitii.Ord. Sur., sh. 38, 1871.
Garchary. Sec DEE, Aberdeenshire.
Garchonzie, a tract of land on the mutual border of
Callander and Port of Monteith parishes, Perthshire,
between Loch Venacher and Callander town.
Garden, an estate, with a mansion, in Kippcn parish,
Stirlingshire, 1J mile ENE of Bucklyvie.
Gardens, a village of central Shetland, 1 mile from
Mossbank.
Gardenstown, a fishing village and a quoad sacra
parish in Gamrie parish, Banlfshire, in the mouth of a
romantic ravine at the head of Gamrie Bay, 8 miles
ENE of Banff, under which it has a post office, with
money order, savings bank, and telegraph departments.
Founded in 1720 by Alexander Garden, Esq. of Troup,
it stands so close to the high overhanging cliffs as to be
almost directly under the eye of any one standing on
the top, and rises from an ofder part close upon the sea
to a newer part on ledges and in recesses of the cliffs.
At it are a harbour for fishing boats, a coastguard station,
a hotel, a branch of the North of Scotland Bank, a
National Security Savings Bank, an Established church,
raised to quoad sacra status in 1885, and a U.P. church.
A coach runs daily between Gardenstown and Banff. In
1895 the number of its fishing boats, together with those
of the neighbouring village of Crovie, was 136. Gar-
denstown was the first herring fishing station on the
Moray Firth, fishing having been commenced in 1812.
Pop. (1881) 871, (1891) 1139; of q. s. parish (1891) 1505.
Ord. Sur., sh. 96, 1876.
Garderhouse, a hamlet in Sandsting parish, Shetland,
15 miles WNW of Lerwick, under which it has a post
office.
GARE LOCH
Gardnerside, a village near Bellshill in Bothwell
parish, Lanarkshire.
Gare Loch, a branch of the Firth of Clyde, projects
into Dumbartonshire between the parishes of Roseneath
and Row, running off almost due N from the upper
waters of the Firth. The part of the Firth of Clyde
lying between a line drawn from Roseneath Point to
Helensburgh, and one from Roseneath to Row Point, is
not properly included in theGaro Loch, though frequently
spoken of as forming part of it. This external portion
is at first about 1J mile wide, but contracts tolerably
rapidly to a breadth of 4J furlongs, just before it expands
again into a rude circle, of which Roseneath Bay forms
one hemisphere. At the entrance to the Gare Loch
proper the breadth of the passage is only 1 furlong.
The total length of the external portion is 2 miles.
The Gare Loch proper extends for 4J miles in a north-
north-westerly direction between the parishes of Rose-
neath on the W and Row on the E, to within 1J mile of
Loch Long. For nearly its entire length it keeps an
average breadth of 7 furlongs, but about 6J from its
head it suddenly contracts to 3 furlongs, which breadth
it retains to the northern extremity. Immediately
before this contraction Farlane Bay, on the E side, in-
creases the breadth temporarily to nearly 7 furlongs.
The only other noteworthy bay is Stroul Bay, imme-
diately to the NW of the narrow entrance to the loch.
The shores of the Gare Loch are low and shingly, and,
with the exception of Row Point, have no projections of
importance. Carnban Point is the name given to a
blunt angle just N of Shandon on the Row side. The
tidal current is strong, and runs at the rate of 3 to
4 miles an hour, while off Row Point especially it is
forced in varying directions. The depth in mid-channel
varies from 10 to 30 fathoms.
The basin of the Gare Loch is a narrow and shallow
cup among the Dumbartonshire hills. Along the Rose-
neath or W side the loch is flanked partly by the well-
wooded and undulating grounds of Roseneath Castle,
but chiefly by a softly outlined chain of moorland hills,
that nowhere rises to a greater height than 651 feet.
On the Row or eastern side a narrow belt of low-lying
or gently-sloping ground intervenes between the beach
and a chain of rounded summits that culminates nearly
midway between Helensburgh and Garelochhead at a
height of 1183 feet. Around the N end of the Gare Loch,
and between the flanking ranges of hills, runs a semicir-
cular connecting link in the shape of a heathy saddle, 250
feet high, over which tower the lofty containing moun-
tains of Loch Long. The water-basin thus limited is not
wider than from '2i to 4 miles, so that the streams which
fall into the Gare Loch, though numerous, are small, the
longest having a course of only 2$ miles. The scenery
Gare Loch, though by no means grand, is pic-
the
turesque; the outlook from its mouth towards Ardmore
and Erskine, and the view of the lofty Argyllshire
hills over its northern end, especially so. The climate
of the valley of the Gare Loch is mild in winter and
spring, but it tends to become sultry and relaxing in
summer. The rainfall is large; and the wind, though
not frequent nor strong, is gusty; and as squalls coming
down the valleys between the hills are not infrequent,
the navigation of the loch is somewhat dangerous for
small sailing boats. For large vessels, however, the
Gare Loch affords excellent anchorage, with good shel-
ter; and is much resorted to by vessels about to leave
the Clyde, for the purpose of adjusting their compasses.
The Clyde training ship Empress is permanently sta-
tioned off Row. Its predecessor, the Cumberland, after
many years' service as a training ship, was destroyed by
fire, February 1889. Fortunately no lives were lost.
The various villages on the Gare Loch are favourite
summer residences for sea-bathers and others. On
the Row side of the loch are situated, to the S, the
outlying portions of Helensburgh, and the villages of
Row, Shandon, and Garelochhead; while the intervals
between these are studded with mansions, villas, and
ornate cottages, for the most part the country quarters
of the rich merchants of Glasgow and its neighbourhood.
GARELOCHHEAD
Among the best known of these is the mansion of West
SHANDON, now occupied as a hydropathic establishment.
On the opposite shore are the piers of Jlambeg, Rachane,
Baremman, and Roseneath, similarly separated from each
other by private residences, though a great part of
the coast lies within the policies of Roseneath Castle,
the property of the Duke of Argyll. Ord. Sur., shs.
37, 38, 30, 1866-76. See Maughan's lloscneoth Post and
Present (1893).
Garelochhead, a village in Row parish, Dumbarton-
shire, just at its junction with Roseneath parish, is
pleasantly situated at the head of the GARE LOCH,
with a station on the West Highland railway, 2 miles
SSE of Portineaple Ferry on Loch Long, and /i miles
NNW of Helensburgh, under which it has a post office,
with money order, savings bank, and telegraph depart-
ments. It has also steamboat communication with
Helensburgh and Greenock. The village stands near
the western entrance to Glenfruin, the 'glen of sorrows'
(seo FRUIN WATER), is small, and contains neat little
houses standing amidst garden-plots and shrubberies,
and it ranks as one of the favourite watering-places on
the Clyde. Garelochhead has a water supply a reser-
voir for collecting the waters of several hill-streams in
the neighbourhood having been formed in 1893. The
Established church, a neat modern edifice, enlarged in
1894, was built as a chapel of ease, and became in 1874
a quoad sacra parish church. There are also a Free
church, a hotel, and a public school. Pop. of villaje
(1871) 433, (1881) 4GO, (1891) 557; of 17. s. parish (1881)
751, (1891) 904. (W. Kitr., sh. 38, 1871.
Garf Water, a rivulet of Wiston and Robcrton parish,
in the upper ward of Lanarkshire, running 6i miles
eastward along the southern base of the Tinto range,
till it falls into the Clyde at a point li mile NNW of
Lamington station.
Gargunnock, a village and a parish in the N of
Stirlingshire. The village stands 7 furlongs SW of
Gargunnock station on the Forth and Clyde Junction
section of the North British, thus being 24^ miles ENE
of Balloch, and 6 W by N of Stirling, under which
there is a post and telegraph office. Occupying a
pleasant site on the slope of a rising-ground, whose
is a neat place, with little gardens attached to its houses,
and has a distillery, some trade in basket-making, and
The parish is bounded N by Kilmadock and Kincar-
dine in Perthshire, E and SE by St Ninians, SW by
Fintry, and W by Balfron and Kippen. Its utmost
length, from N to S, is 53 miles; its utmost breadth,
from E to W, is 4 miles; and its area is 9913J acres, of
which 54 J arc water. The river FoHTif winds 11. i miles
east-by-southward along all the northern border, though
the point where it first touches and that where it quits
the parish are only 3J miles distant as the crow flics.
It here has an average breadth of 60 feet, with a depth
of 12 feet, and, at a point a mile from the eastern
boundary, approaches close to Gargnnnock station. EN-
DRICK Water, in two of its head-streams, traces much
of the south-eastern and south-western borders; whilst
BOQUHAN Burn, coining in from Fintry, runs 4 miles
north-by-eastward to the Forth along all the western
boundary, and traverses a glen so grandly romantic and
so beautifully wild as to have been sometimes compared
to the Trossachs. Several burns rise in the interior,
and run, some to Endrick Water, more to Boquhan
Burn, or to the Forth; and some of them have con-
siderable volume, and rush impetuously down craggy
steeps, forming in times of heavy rain far-seen and far-
heard cataracts. Perennial springs are numerous, and
two chalybeate springs are near Boquhan Burn. The
northern district, all within the folds of the Forth, and
a short distance southward thence, is carse land, from
35 to 44 feet above sea-level, and was covered for cen-
turies by part of the ancient Caledonian Forest. Passing
thereafter into a condition of moss so deep and swampy
as to be almost worthless, it was in the eighteenth
century completely reclaimed, and thenceforth possessed
76
OARIOCH
a value and fertility similar to the carses of Stirling,
Falkirk, and Cowrie. The middle district, down to a
line from nearly 2 miles to nearly 3J S of the Forth,
rises gently from the carse district, and lay in a ne-
glected state, mostly waste and wild, overrun with
furze and broom, till towards the close of the 18th cen-
':ury it was thoroughly reclaimed by draining and hedg-
r is all an expanse of '
1111(1
f beauty, mostly under
the plough, and largely embellished and sheltered with
wood. The southern district consists entirely of the
north-western portion of the Lennox range, called the
Gargunnock Hills, whose highest point, Carleatheran
(1591 feet), is 2 miles SSW of the village. It once was
all, or nearly all, a moorish waste, but now, as a result
of improvements, is a capital sheep-walk, and commands
from the summits and shoulders of its hills a wide,
diversified, and splendid prospect. The rocks beneath
the low lands include red and white sandstone, and are
thought to be carboniferous; those of the hills are
chiefly eruptive. The soil of the carse is a rich, loamy
clay, on a subsoil of blue or yellow clay, with subjacent
beds of sea-shells; that of the middle district, in parts
adjacent to the carse, is a fertile loam, and elsewhere
is clayey and sandy; whilst that of the hills is partly
clay and partly wet gravel. Of the entire area, 1120
acres are in tillage, 574 are under wood, 3638 are in
pasture, and nearly all the rest of the land is waste.
Keir Hill, near the village, was a fortified place in the
end of the 13th century, and appears to have been sur-
rounded by a rampart, and defended by two confluent
streams and a fosse. It rises to a considerable elevation,
and measures 140 yards in circumference on the summit.
Gargunnock Peel, on a rising-ground, 50 yards from
the Forth and 1 mile NE of the village, was erected
to command a ford on the river, and was
ed by a rampart and a fosse, but now is repre-
sented by only part of the fosse. Sir William Wallace,
with a band of retainers, is said to have taken post
upon Keir Hill, while an English garrison held Gargun-
nock Peel; and he sallied from the hill, drove the
English from the peel, and then crossed the Forth by
the Bridge of Offers i mile higher up. An ancient
tower belonging to the Grahams stood on the lands of
Boquhan; its ruins were removed about the year 1760.
A battle between the Grahams and the Leckies was
fought, at some unrecorded period, on the western
border of the parish; and here a great quantity of
human bones, with spearheads and fragments of brass
armour, were exhumed about 1800. Gargunnock House,
5 furlongs E by N of the village, is an interesting
building, with a fine modern front, but a massive E
wing of considerable antiquity; its owner is Col. John
Stirling Stirling (b. 1832; sue. 1839). Other mansions,
separately noticed, arc Boquhan, Leckie, and Meikle-
wood. Gargunnock is in the presbytery of Stirling and
synod of Perth and Stirling; the living is worth 197.
The parish church, at the village, was built in 1774, and
renovated in 1891-92. There is also a Free church
station; and a public school, with accommodation for
167 children, has an average attendance of about 90,
and a grant of nearly 88. Valuation (1882) 8009, 19s.
6d., (1892) 6690, 4s., plus 1429, for railway. Pop.
(1881) 698, (1891) 674. Ord. Sur., ah. 39, 1869.
Garie. See GAIRIE.
Garifad, a village in the Isle of Skye, Inverness-shire.
Its post-town is Kilmuir, under Portree.
Garioch, an inland district of Aberdeenshire. It is
bounded on the NE and E by Formartine, on the S by
Mar, on the W by Mar and Strathbogie, and on the NW
by Strathbogie. It has an area of about 150 square
lies, contains 15 parishes, and gives name to a presby-
tery in the synod of Aberdeen. It is bounded or bor-
dered by a range of hills, extending about 20 miles
westward from the vicinity of Old Meldrum; it com-
prises fertile, warm, well-sheltered valleys, notable for
the salubrity of their climate; is sometimes, on account
of its fertility, called the 'girnal' of Aberdeenshire;
t has long been famed as a summer resort for invalids;
t experienced great development of its resources from
GARIOCH, CHAPEL OF
Car
and
better advantages from the superseding of that
by the Great North of Scotland railway; and it has a
farmers' club, dating from 1808. and the Garioch and
Northern Medical Association, dating from 1854. The
presbytery of Garioch, meeting at Inverurie and Insi-li,
roin pn 'bends the parishes of Bourtie, Chapel of Garioch,
Culsalmond, Daviot, Insch, Inverurio, Keithhall, Kern-
nay, Kintore, Leslie, Meldrum, Monymusk, Oyne,
Prcmnay, and Rayne, with the chapelry of Blairdaif.
Pop. (1871) 20,132, (1881) 20,136, (1891) 19,435, of
whom 6259 were communicants of the Church of Scot-
land in 1895. The Free Church also has a presbytery of
Garioch, meeting at Inverurie, and comprising churches
at Blairdaff, Chapel of Garioch, Culsalmond, Insch,
Inverurie, Kemnay, Kintore, Leslie. Oyne, and Rayne,
which ten churches together had 2040 communicants
in 1894.
Garioch, Chapel of. See CHAPEL or GARIOCH.
Garion, an estate on the NE border of Dalserf parish,
Lanarkshire, 1\ miles SE of Larkhall. A bridge here
over the river Clyde, erected in 1817, has three arches,
each 65 feet in span, with a roadway 214 *" ce t wide;
and measures 34 feet in height from the bed of the river
to the top of the parapet.
Garleton, a range ofporphyrite hills in the N of Had-
rlington parish, culminating, 1J mile N of the town, at
an altitude of 590 feet above sea-level. A western spur
is crowned by a conspicuous column, a monument to
John, fourth Earl of Hopctoun (1766-1823), the Penin-
sular hero. Garleton Castle, at the N base of the range,
was once a superb mansion, a seat of the Earls of
W'inton, but is now a fragmentary ruin. Ord. Sur., sh.
33, 1863.
Garlies, a ruined castle in Minnigaff parish, Kirk-
cudbrightshire, 24 miles N by E of Newton-Stewart.
From the latter half of the 13th century the seat of the
ancestors of the Earl of Galloway, it gives to the Earl
the title of Baron (ere. 1607). It has, for several
hundred years, been in a state of ruin; and, though
now in a fragmentary condition, it has walls so very
tightly mortar-bound as to be nearly as solid as rock.
Garliestown, a small town in Sorbie parish, SW
Wigtownshire. Founded about 1760, by John, seventh
Earl of Galloway, then Lord Garlies, the town stands
on the W shore of GARLIESTOWN BAY, in the northern
vicinity of GALLOWAY HOUSE, with a station on the
Wigtownshire branch (1875-77) of the Dumfries and
Portpatrick railway, 5 miles NNE of Whithorn, and
9| SSE of Wigtown. It bends in the form of a crescent
round the bay, and, consisting of neat substantial houses,
built of whinstone, presents a pleasant appearance.
Boatbuilding, fishing, chemical manufactures, and a
saw-mill afford employment. A considerable commerce
in the export of agricultural produce, and the import of
coal, lime, manures, etc., is carried on from a harbour,
which, naturally good, was artificially enlarged and im-
proved about 1855; and Garliestown has a post office,
with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph depart-
ments, two hotels, a Congregational chapel, and a public
school. The parish church and a Free Church are at
Millisle, about a mile WNW of the town. By steam-
boat it communicates once a fortnight with Liverpool.
Pop- (1861) 685, (1871) 683, (1881) 699, (1891) 632.
Garliestown Bay, striking north-westward from the
Irish Sea in the same direction as Wigtown Bay, has a
breadth of 4 mile at the entrance between Eggerness
Point and the breakwater, a length thence of 5 furlongs
to its inmost recess, and a depth of from 20 to 30 feet
at high water, though at low tide its upper part is all left
dry. Engirt for the most part by flat sandy shores, but
partly overlooked by rising grounds, it lies on a bed of
such deep soft clay as to afford secure anchorage, and is
admirably adapted to accommodate the coasting vessels
between many points, particularly between Dublin and
Whitehaven. The tide runs out from Wigtown Bay six
hours, and takes the same time to return, but in Garlies-
town Bay it flows five hours from the S, and ebbs seven.
Ord. Sur., sh. 4, 1857.
GARNOCK
Garlogie, a village, with a public school and an ex-
tensive spinning and rnrdiii"' Inrlury, in Skene parish,
Aberdeenshire, 24 miles SW of Skeiio Church, and 10
W of Aberdeen.
Garlpool. Sec GARPOL, Dumfriesshire.
Garmond, a village in Monquhitter parish, NW Aber-
deenshire, on a rising - ground 1J mile N by E of
Cuminestown, and 7 miles ENE of Turriff, on the
Inveramsay and Macduff section of the Great North of
Scotland railway. It was built in the latter part of the
18th century, and has a public school.
Garmouth, a seaport village in Urquhart parish,
Klginshire, on the left bank of the river Spey, j mile
S of Kingston at its mouth, with a station on the Elgin
and Portsoy branch of the Great North of Scotland
railway, 4| miles N by W of Fochabers. A burgh of
barony, under the Duke of Richmond and Gordon, it
chiefly consists of modern houses, neatly arranged in
regular street lines; it has a harbour naturally good, but
severely damaged by the great flood of 1829, and always
subject to fresh shillings and obstructions of ground
from heavy freshets of the Spey; and it, at one time,
conducted a remarkably large timber trade, in the
export of tree-trunks floated down to it from the forests
of Glenmore, Abernethy, Rothiemurchus, and Glen-
feshie. It still deals largely in timber, both for expor-
tation and for local shipbuilding; and it also imports
coal, exports agricultural produce, and carries on a
valuable salmon fishery, considerable quantities of the
takes being despatched to London and the southern
markets. Garmouth was plundered by the Marquis of
Montrose in the February, and burned in the May, of
1645; and at it King Charles II. landed from Holland on
23 June 1650. It has a post oiiice, with money order and
savings' bank departments, a branch of the Caledonian
Bank, a National Security Savings Bank, one or two
hotels, a coastguard station, gas-work (1857), a fair on
30 June, a Gothic Free church (1845), with an octagonal
tower, and a public school. The last, on an eminence
between it and Kingston, is a handsome Elizabethan
edifice, erected in 1875-76 at a cost of over 1600.
Pop. (1831) 750, (1861) 802, (1871) 636, (1881) 626,
(1891) 535. Ord. Sur., sh. 95, 1876.
Garnethill. See GLASGOW.
Garngad Hill. See GLASGOW.
Garnkirk, a station, a scat of fireclay manufacture,
and an estate near the southern border of Cadder parish,
Lanarkshire. The station, on the Glasgow and Garn-
kirk section (1831) of the Caledonian railway, is 5} miles
EXE of Buchanan Street Station in Glasgow, and 4
WNW of Coatbridge. The Garnkirk Fired. .y Works,
perhaps one of the largest and most complete works of
the kind in the kingdom, in the near vicinity of the
station, comprise extensive buildings, and produce
bricks, furnace blocks, retorts and crucibles, water-
pipes, chimney cans, vases, flower-pots, and other
articles of remarkable elegance and durability. The
Hcathfield and Cardowan Fireclay Co. have also a largo
establishment for the manufacture of similar goods.
The Garnkirk fireclay, occurring in beds from 4 to ] 9
feet thick, and equal if not superior to Stourbridge clay,
resembles light-coloured sandstone in tint, and with-
stands a much stronger heat than any other fireclay
known in Scotland. Its composition is 53 '4 per cent,
of silica, 43-6 of alumina, 0'6 of lime, 1'S of peroxide of
iron, and 0'6 of protoxide of manganese; while that of
Stourbridge clay is 63 '30 of silica, 23 '30 of alumina,
073 of lime, 1'80 of oxide of iron, and 10 '30 of water.
Garnkirk House is J mile NNW of the station. Pop.
of Garnkirk, Crow Row, and Heathlield, (1881) 782,
(1891) 971. Ord. Sur., sh. 31, 1867.
Garnock, a small river of Cunninghamo district, Ayr-
shire, rising among the Mistylaw Hills, at an altitude
of 1600 feet above sea-level, close to the Renfrewshire,
border, and winding 21J miles southward till it falls
into the Irvine, 4 mile above that river's influx to the
sea, and unites with it to form Irvine harbour. It
traverses or bounds the parishes of Kilbirnie, Dairy,
Kilwinning, Stevenstoii, and Irvine ; makes, before
77
GARNQUEEN
reaching Kilbirnie village, a wild and lonely cataract,
the Spout of Garnock; lower down proceeds slowly
through a flat fertile country, over a gravelly bed, with
an average breadth of 60 feet; and receives on its right
lank Rye and Caaf Waters, on its left bank Lugton
and Dusk Waters. Always subject to freshets, it some-
devastating effects; and, on an autumn day of 1790, it
rose 4 feet higher than it had ever been known to do
before, destroyed a great quantity of standing corn, and
carried away many sheaves to the sea. The trout fish-
ing is very fair, the waters being everywhere preserved,
but salmon are very scarce. A viscountcy of Garnock
was created in 1703 in favour of John Crawford of Kil-
birnie, whose grandson, the fourth Viscount, succeeded
in 1749 to the earldom of Crawford. It became dormant
in 1808. Ord. Sur., shs. 30, 22, 1866-65.
Garnqueen, a village, with brickworks, on the mutual
border of New Monkland and Cadder parishes, Lanark-
shire, near GLEXROIG station. Here are the immense
works of the Glenboig Union Fireclay Co. Fire bricks
are also manufactured at Gartverrie, half a mile distant,
while coal is plentifully found in the district. Garn-
queen Loch here receives a burn from New Monkland
parish, and sends off one, by way of Croftfoot Mill, into
confluence with the burns from Bishop and Johnston
Lochs. Pop. with Glenboig (1871) 307, (1881) 934,
(1891)1360.
Garpel, a burn in Glenkens district, Kirkdhright-
shire, rising in Dairy parish, and running 5^ miles
south-westward, through lhat parish and on the bound-
ary with Balmaclellan, to the river Ken, 1J mile N by
E of New Galloway. It has, in some parts, a narrow
rugged channel, overhung by lofty wooded precipices,
and it makes a few fine falls, the most picturesque of
which bears the name of Holy Linn, and is associated
with events in the persecution of the Covenanters.
Ord. Sur., sh. 9, 1863.
Garpel Water, a burn in Muirkirk parish, E Ayrshire.
It rises, at an altitude of 1755 feet, close to the boundary
with Lanarkshire, and runs 4J miles north-westward
till it falls into the river Ayr at a point 1 mile WSW of
Muirkirk town. Ord. Sur., sh. 15, 1864.
Garpol or Garpool Water, a burn of Kirkpatrick-
Juxta parish, Dumfriesshire, rising close to the Lanark-
shire border at an altitude of 1300 feet, and winding 5|
miles east-by-southward, partly along the Moli'at bound-
ary, but mainly through the interior, till, after forming
a cascade near Achiucass Castle, it falls into Evan
W T ater at a point li mile SW of Motiat town. A very
strong chalybeate, called Garpol Spa, near it, is pro-
perly not a spa or spring, nor perennial, but is formed,
litlully and occasionally, in warm weather, by rain water
imbibing and dissolving mineral constituents from fer-
rugino-aluminons Mil Ord. Sur., sh. 16, 1864.
Garr. See GARRY, Auchtergaven, Perthshire.
Garrabost, a village in the Kye peninsula, Stornoway
parish, Lewis, Outer Hebrides, "Kuss-shire, 7 miles E by
N of Stornoway town, under which it has a post office.
A Free church was built here in 1881. Pop. (1861)
418, (1871) 482, (1881) 309, (1891) 385.
Garraghuism Cave. See COLL, Stornoway.
Garrallan. See GARALLAN.
Garrel. See GARVAI.D.
Garrison, The. See MILLI-ORT.
Garroch, an estate, with a modern mansion, in Kells
parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, 5 miles NW of New Gallo-
Garroch Head, a. headland, 210 feet high, at the
southern extremity of Bute island, Buteshire, 2| miles
W of Little Cumbrae. The peninsula that it terminates
is joined to the rest of Kingarth parish by a low sandy
isthmus 9J furlongs wide, and, with an utmost length
and breadth of 2J and 2 miles, attains 485 feet at Torr
Mor, 119 at DUNAGOIL, and 517 at Suidhe Plantation,
near the SW shore of Kilchattan Bay. See ST BLANK'S
CHAPEL and DEVIL'S CAULDRON. Ord. Sur., sh. 21,
1870.
Garrochory or Garchary. See DEE, Aberdecnshirc.
GABSCUBE
Garron, a headland in Fetteresso parish, Kincardine-
shire, flanking the N side of Stonehaven Bay. It con-
sists of a light green coloured rock, of intermediate
character between trap and serpentine, and passing into
chloride slate.
Garry, a burn in Auchtergaven parish, Perthshire.
It rises in boggy ground at the head of Glen Garr, a hill
pass on the mutual border of Auchtergaven and Little
Dunkeld parishes; runs 7J miles south-eastward, past
Auchtergaven manse; receives the tribute of Corral
Burn; and falls, at Loak, into Ordie Burn. Ord. Sur.,
shs. 47, 48, 1869-68.
Garry, a lake and a river of Blair Athole parish, N
Perthshire. Lying 1330 feet above sea-level, and having
a maximum width of 2J furlongs, Loch Garry extends
2g miles north-north-eastward to within J mile of Dalna-
spidal station on the Highland railway. It is screened,
all round, by bare, lofty, rugged mountains; receives a
dozen mountain torrents, flowing to it through gorges
among the mountains; and exhibits a wild, sequestered
aspect, being in some parts so closely beset by its moun-
tain screens, as to have scarcely a foot-breadth of shore.
Its trout are numerous, but small and shy. The river
Garry, issuing from the foot of the lake, runs 22 miles
east-south-eastward, mainly through Blair Athole parish,
but in the last 3 miles of Its course, below Blair Athole
village, forming the boundary with Moulin parish, till,
at Faskally House, below the Pass of KILLIECRANKIK,
it falls into the Tummel, after a total descent of nearly
1000 feet. It receives, on its left bank, the Edendon,
Ender, Bruar, Tilt, and Allt Girnaig, and on its right
the Erichdie; is closely followed, from head to foot, by
the Highland railway and by the great road from Inver-
ness to Perth ; and changes, in scenic character, from
alpine wildness and dismal bleakness to a rich variety
uf picttiresqueness. One of the most impetuous rivers
of Scotland, it is, as the Queen writes, 'very fine, rolling
over large stones, and forming perpetual falls, with birch
and mountain-ash growing down to the water's edge. '
In times of freshet it comes down with sudden burst
and tumultuous fury, tearing up its slaty or gravelly
bed, carrying off heavy fragments, and menacing the
very dills upon its banks. Ord. Sur., shs. 54, 55,
1873-69.
Garry, a river and a lake in GLENGARRY district, In-
verness-shire. The river, issuing from the foot of Loch
Quoieh (555 feet above sea-level), runs 10J miles east-
ward to Looh Garry (258 feet), on emerging from which
it winds 3| miles south-eastward and east-by-northward,
till it falls into Loch OICH (105 feet), on the line of tho
Caledonian Canal, at INVKRGARRY, 7 miles SW of Fort
Augustus. Loch Garry is thus an expansion of the
river, having a length of 4J miles east-by-northward,
with a varying width of 1 furlong and i mile. It lies
in a beautiful glen, with lofty receding mountains, and,
immediately engirt by a series of low, swelling, birch-
clad eminences, bursts into view, from foot to head, at
a point near its eastern extremity. Towards its foot it
little island, by which and a peninsula it is
Both lake and river abound in
and trout Ord. Sur., shs. 62, 63,
almost divided ii
salmon salmo-fe
1875-73.
Garrynahine, a hamlet in Uig parish, Lewis, Outer
Hebrides, Ross-shire, at the head of Loch Roag, 14
miles W by S of Stornoway, with a hotel.
Garscadden, an estate, with a mansion and a village,
in New Kilpatrick parish, Dumbartonshire. Held by
successively the Flemings, the Erskines, and the Gal-
braiths, the estate passed about 1664 to the Campbell
Colquhouns of Killermont. The mansion, standing 1|
mile WSW of Bearsden station and 3 miles WNW of
Maryhill, is remarkable for a castellated Gothic gate-
way, larger and more imposing than any similar struc-
ture in the W of Scotland. Pop. of the village (1871)
602, (1881) 649, (1891) 574. Ord. Sur., sh. 30, 1866.
Gaxscube, an estate, with a mansion, in New Kilpatrick
parish, Dumbartonshire. The mansion, standing on the
right bank of the river Kelvin, 1 mile NW of Maryhill
station and 5 miles NW of Glasgow, was erected in
GARTCOSH
1827, after designs by W. Burn, in the Elizabethan
style, and has very beautiful grounds. Acquired by the
Colquhouns in 1558, the estate of Garscube passed about
the middle of the 17th century to John Campbell of
Succoth, whose descendant, Islay Campbell, was created
Lord Advocate in 1784, President of the Court of Ses-
sion under the title of Lord Succoth in 1789, and a
baronet in 1808. His son, Sir Archibald, became a
Lord of Session in 1809, also under the title of Lord
Succoth ; and the widow of his grandson, Sir George
(1829-74), is present owner. Sir George was succeeded
as fifth Bart, by his cousin, Archibald Spencer Lindsay
Campbell (b. 1852). Ord. Sur., sh. 30, 1866.
Gartcosh, a village and station in Cadder parish,
Lanarkshire, on the Caledonian railway, 2j miles NW
of Coatbridge, and 7 ENE of Glasgow, under which it
has a post office. Near it are Gartcosh Fire Clay Works.
Pop. (1881) 356, (1891) 631.
Gartferry, an estate, with a mansion, in Cadder
parish, Lanarkshire, 2J miles NNE of Garnkirk station.
Garth, a village in Uelting parish, Shetland, 2 miles
from Mossbank.
Garth Castle or Caisteal Dubh, a ruined fortalice in
Moulin parish, Perthshire, among a larch plantation
i mile SE of Moulin village. It looks, from its style of
architecture, to have been built in the llth or 12th
century, but is unknown to record.
Garth House, a mansion in Fortingall parish, NW
Perthshire, on the left bank of the Lyon, 1} mile ENE
of Fortingall hamlet, and 7 miles W by S of Aberfeldy.
It was the birthplace of Major-General David Stewart
(1772-1829), Governor of St Lucia, and author of
Sketches of tin' lH-il, !<,,ulfrs; and the seat of Sir Archi-
bald Campbell, G.C.B., Bart. (1770-1843), Governor of
New Brunswick and commander-in-chief in the Burmese
war. Now it is the property of Sir Donald Currie,
K.C.M.G. (b. 1825), who purchased the estate for
51,000 in 1880, the year of his election as member of
Parliament for Perthshire, and who has built a consider-
able addition, including a tower. Garth Castle, 2| miles
NNE, near the right bank of Keltney Burn, is a ruinous
square keep, crowning a rocky promontory 150 feet
high. It was a stronghold of Alexander Stewart, Earl
of Buchan (the 'Wolf of Badenoch '), in the latter half
of the 14th century. Ord Sur., sh. 55, 1869.
Garthland, an estate, with a mansion, in Loehwin-
noch parish, Renfrewshire, in the western vicinity of
Lochwinnoch town. Purchased by his aneestor in 1727,
it belongs to Henry Macdowall, Esq. (b. 1845; sue. 1882).
Garthland Mains, a farm in Stoneykirk parish, Wig-
townshire, 3J miles SSE of Stranraer. Here in 1840
was demolished a square tower, which, 45 feet high,
bore on its battlements the date 1274, and was long the
stronghold of the ancient and powerful family of the
JI'Dowalls.
Gartinqueen Loch. See GAKXQUEEN.
Gartloch, an estate in Cadder parish, Lanarkshire, <m
the NW shore of Bishop's Loch, 1 mile SSE of Garnkirk
station. Consisting of 347 acres, it was purchased in 1889,
at a cost of 8500, by the Glasgow District Lunacy
Board, who forthwith erected, at au estimated cost of
150,000, a magnificent pile of buildings to accommo-
date 500 inmates. The style of the architecture is ' Fran-
<;ois Premier,' and the architects wen: Messrs. Thomson
& Sandilands, Glasgow. Gartloch Lunatic Asylum ex-
tends about 700 leet both ways, is arranged on the
pavilion system, and is divided into two distinct parts-
asylum and hospital. The asylum comprises lour blocks,
and the hospital block has accommodation for five classes
of patients. Both sections are provided with a dining
hall, kitchen, stores, etc., while the asylum section is
provided besides with a spacious recreation hall, and
with workshops for the male inmates on their side, and
a laundry on the females' side. The official block is
situated to the north, and is flanked by two towers about
130 leet high. Here are the board room, the doctor's
room, waiting rooms, and attendants' quarters. There
are also connected with the establishment a large farm,
a chapel, a doctor's house, a gate lodge, and a mortuary.
GARTMORE
Gartly, a parish
ear its southern
f NW Aberdeenshirc, containing
border Gartly station on the Great
North of Scotland railway, 5 miles S of Huntly and 35J
NW of Aberdeen, with a post and railway telegraph
office. Previous to 1891 that part of the parish which
lies east of the river Bogie formed a detached part of
the county of Ba7ih", surrounded wholly by Aberdeen-
shire. This portion is called the Barony; the Aber-
deenshire portion, the Braes. In the above year the
Boundary Commissioners transferred the Barony to the
county of Aberdeen, so that Gartly parish is now wholly
in Aberdeenshire. Bounded NE by Drumblade, SE by
Insch, S by Kennethmont and Rhynie, W by Cabrach
and Glass, and NW and N by Huntly, the parish has an
utmost length from E to W of 10i miles, an utmost
breadth from N to S of 4J miles, and an area of 18.126J
acres, of which 38 J arc water, and 6348 belonged to Banff-
shire. The BOGIE winds 3J miles northward through
the interior, having the Barony section to the E and the
Braes section to the W, and then proceeds 1J mile NNW
along the Drumblade border. The URY has its source in
the E of the Barony; and the Braes section is drained
to the Bogie by Kirkncy Burn and by Lag Burn and
Priest's Water, uniting to form Ness Bogie, whose lateral
vales, as also Strathbogie itself, abound in charming
scenes of quiet pastoral beauty. The surface is hilly,
sinking along the Bogie to 386 feet above sea-level, and
thence ascending in the Barony section to 632 feet at
Birkenhill, 1029 at AVind's Eye, 1375at Wishach Hill, and
1369 at the Hill of Corskie; in the Braes, to 1148 at the
"southern shoulder of CLASHMACH Hill, 1069 at the Hill
of Collithie, 1495 at the *Hill of Kirkney, 1263 at the
*Hill of Bogairdy, 1248 at Slough Hill, 1086 at the Hill
of Drumfergue, and 1724 at *Grumack Hill, where aster-
isks mark those summits that culminate right on the
borders of the parish. Basalt or greenstone appears
along Kirkney Burn, but the rocks are mainly Silurian
greywacke, with strata of limestone and laminate clay
slate, which, grey or bluish-green in hue, has been
largely quarried at Corskie. The soil in Strathbogie
and in the transverse vales is for the most part a fertile
clay loam; that of the Barony is light and sandy, in-
cumbent on a hard retentive subsoil. From the 12th
to the 16th century, the Barony of Gartly belonged to
a branch of the Barclays, who, as hereditary high sheriffs
of Banll'shire, procured its annexation to that county;
t their castle here (now in ruins) Queen Mary spent a
f October 1562, the month of the Battle of Cor-
A number of cairns that formerly stood on Mill-
hill farm, near the parish church, are believed to have
been sepulchral monuments of a skirmish fought there
after the Battle of Harlaw, and, being opened and re-
moved about the year 1801, were found to contain some
broken fragments of armour. Of other and more ancient
cairns on Faichhill and Riskhouse farm, one was found
to contain a funereal urn; in the Braes were four pre-
Reformation chapels. The Duke of Richmond and
Gordon is sole proprietor. Gartly is in the presbytery
of Strathbogie and synod of Moray; the living is worth
287. The parish church, near the right bank of the
Bogie, 2 miles N by E of Gartly station, is a handsome
Gothic edifice of 1880, with 400 sittings and E and W
gable rose-windows, filled, like the rest, with cathedral
glass. Its predecessor was a plain old building of 1621,
originally dedicated to St Andrew. A Free church
stands, across the river, 9 furlongs to the NW; and
Barony public, Braes public, and Gartly female schools,
with respective accommodation for 135, 47, and 50
children, have an average attendance of about 50. 30,
and 60. and grants of nearly 37. 43. and 46. Pop.
(1801) 958, (1831) 1127, (1861) 1029, (1871) 972, (1881)
890, (1891) 928.-Orrf. Sur., sh. 86, 1876.
Gartmore, a village and a quoad sacra parish in Port
of Monteith parish, SW Perthshire. The village stands
on the peninsula between the river Forth and Kelty
Water, 4J miles NW of Bucklyvie, and 1 mile from
Gartmore station on the Strathendrick and Aberloyle
railway (1882), under which it has a post office. It has
a free library, the gift of Mr John M'Donald, a Glasgow
79
ight
GARTMOKN DAM
merchant. Gartmore House, J mile NE of the village,
is a commodious mansion and a seat of R. B. Cunning-
hame Graham, Esq. The parish, constituted in July 1869,
is in the presbytery of Dunblane and synod of Perth and
Stirling; its minister's stipend is 100, with a manse.
The church, built as a chapel of ease in 1790 at a cost of
400, underwent great improvements in 1872, and con-
tains 415 sittings. There is also a Free church; and
Uartmore public and Dalmary sessional schools, with re-
spective accommodation lor 134 and 54 children, have
an average attendance of about 70 and 40, and grants
of nearly 70 and 30. Pop. of q. s. parish (1871)
353, (1881) 718, (1891) 816, of whom 413 were in Dry-
men parish, Stirlingshire. Orel. Sur., sh. 38, 1871.
Gartmorn Dam, a reservoir on the mutual border of
Alloa and Clackmannan parishes, Clackmannanshire, 2
miles EXE of Alloa town. Formed about the year 1700,
and repaired and improved in 1827 and 1867, it is fed
from the Black Devon rivulet in Clackmannan parish,
and supplies water to the town of Alloa. Ord. Sur.,
sh. 39, 1869.
Gartnavel. Sec GLASGOW.
Gartness, a village, with iron-works, in Slmtts pail-Ii,
Lanarkshire, on the left bank of North Calder Water,
2 miles ESE of Airdrie.
Gartness, a village and an estate on the W border of
Stirlingshire. The village has a post office, two woollen
cloth factories, and a station OH the Forth and Clyde
Junction section of the North British railway, 1J mile
ENE of Drymcn station, and 22 miles WSW of Stirling
The estate lies around the station, along Endrick
Water, on the mutual border of Drymen and Kill
parishes; and possesses much interest, both for its
scenery and for association with the life and labours of
John Napier of Mcrchiston (1550-1617), the inventor of
logarithms. Endrick Water here, over a run of J mile,
traverses a natural cleft in the solid rock, and rushes
vexedly over a series of mural ledges; in one part, it
passes through a caldron-shaped cavity, the Pot of
Gartness, and forms there a picturesque cascade. A
woollen factory hard by succeeded an ancient mill, the
noiseofw-hich, along with that of the cataract, disturbed
the mathematician amid his studies. Though falsely
claimed as a native of Gartness, he at least was the
member of a family who held the estate from 1495,
and he is known to have resided here at various periods
of his life, and here to have prosecuted those studies
which have immortalised his name. An old castle,
overhanging the Pot of Gartness, was his place of resi-
dence, and has left some fragments; a stone taken from
its ruins, and bearing the date 1574, is built into the
gable of the factory; and some stones, witli markings or
engravings on them believed to have been made by
him, are in possession of the present proprietor of the
estate. Ord. Pur., sh. 30, 18(56.
Gartney or Strathgartney, an upland tract in the W
of Callandcr parish, Perthshire, along the northern
shore of Loch Katrine.
Gartsherrie, a suburban town and a quoad sacra
parish iu Old Monkland parish, Lanarkshire. The
is partly identical with the 1C .side of Coatliridge,
r extends about a mile to the NNW; and, lying
along the Monkland Canal and reaches of the Cale-
partly ,
donian and North British railway systems, presents
urban aspect throughout its identity with Coatbridge,
and a strictly suburban aspect in its north-westward
extension. It contains, in its urban part, the parish
church and a large academy in its suburban part,
extensive iron-works and dwelling-houses for the opera-
tives in these works, being collectively the most pro-
minent of the seats of iron manufacture which give to
( 'oatbndge district its characteristic aspect of Jlame and
smoke and busy traffic. It has a station of its own
name on the Caledonian railway, near the forking of the
line towards respectively Glasgow and Stirling, 1J mile
NNW of Coatbridge station. The church, crowning an
eminence J mile S of the iron-works, was built in 1839
at a cost of 3300, chiefly defrayed by Messrs. Baird.
A handsome edifice, with a spire 136 feet high, it figures
GARVALD
in the general landscape as a striking feature of Coat-
bridge, and contains 1050 sittings. The academy, near
the church, is also a handsome and prominent edifice,
and supplies a liberal course of instruction. It and a
school at tin} iron-works, wiih respective accommodation
for 659 and 309 children, have an average attendance
of about 650 and 300, and grants of over 740 and
310. The iron-works of Messrs. Baird, first put
in blast on 4 May 1830, are among the best organised
manufactories in Scotland, and have long had a wide
and high reputation for producing iron of superior
quality. The furnaces, 22 feet in diameter and 60
high, stand in two rows, one on each side of the canal,
and about 40 yards distant from it. There are several
hundred workmen's houses, each with two or three
apartments, a small garden plot, and a cheap supply
of gas and water. Gartsherrie House, near the station,
a modern mansion, was the residence and death-place
of Alexander "WMtdaw, Ksq. (1823-79), M.P. for Glas-
gow from 1874 to 1879. The parish is in the presby-
synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and
tery of Hamilton and
was endowed entirely by the late J
Baird, Esq.
of CAMBUSDOOJT. Pop- of parish (1881) 9070, (1891)
12,155. Ord. Sur., sh. 31, 1867. See Andrew Miller's
lliite rind J'rai/rtss of C'latliru/yc and the Surrounding
Neighbourhood (Glasg. 1864).
Gartshore, an estate, with a mansion, in Kirkintilloch
parish, Dumbartonshire. The mansion, standing 3 miles
E of Kirkintilloch town, is a fine old edifice, with beau-
tiful surrounding woods. The estate was purchased, a
few years before iiisdra.Ui, by Alexander Whitelaw, Esq.,
of Gartsherrie, and is now owned by his eldest son and
na mesakc. See GAKTSHEKRIE. Ord. Sur., sh. 31, 1867.
Gart, The, a line mansion in Callander parish, Perth-
shire, on the left bank of the river Teith, 14 mile SE of
the village. Built about 1S32 by Admiral Sir William
Houston Stewart, it now is the seat of Dan. Ainslie, Esq.
Garturk, a quoad sacra parish in the south-eastern
district of Old Monkland parish, Lanarkshire. It was
((instituted in January 1S70; and its post-tmvn is Coat-
bridge, 1J mile to the NW. It comprises a compact
area, including the villages of Whiltlet, Rosehall, and
CALDER, and also the Calder Iron-works, belonging to
the firm of William Dixon (Limited). These works are
interesting, as the place where the famous and valuable
blackband ironstone, which has proved such a source of
wealth to Scotland, was first discovered. The discovery
was made in 1805 by Robert Mushet, from whom it
received the name of "'Mushet Blackband,' and as such
it is still known. In this parish there are also several
other large iron and engineering works, and numerous
coal mines of considerable depth. The parish, which is
in the presbytery of Hamilton and synod of Glasgow
and Ayr, was endowed at a cost of upwards of 8000,
of which 1500 was from the General Assembly's Endow-
ment Fund, the remainder being raised by voluntary
subscription. The church, erected in 1869 and renewed
in 1880, is a handsome edifice the interior, which is
richly ornamented, being one of the finest specimens of
the Decorated style to be seen in this part of the country.
Adjoining the church and under the same roof with it
is a very comfortable manse, prettily situated amidst a
plantation of trees. The parish contains two good
schools one close beside the church, supported by the
proprietors of Calder Iron-works; the other in Rosehall,
maintained by the owners of Rosehall colliery. With
respective accommodation for 227 and 170 children,
these schools have an average attendance of about 220
and 160, and grants of over 240 and 160. Pop.
(1871) 3883, (1881) 4266, (1891) 4551. Ord. Sur., sh.
31, 1867.
Garvald, a village and a, parish in Iladdingtonshire.
The village stands towards the N of the parish, 450 feet
above sea-level, on the left bank of Papana Water, 64
miles S of East Linton station, and 5J ESE of Hadding-
ton; it has a post office under Prestonkirk. In 1893 a
bill was introduced into Parliament for the construction
of a deviation railw
North British to Gil
GARVALD
The present parish, comprising the ancient parishes of
Garvald and Bara, united in 1702, is bounded N, NE,
E, and SE by Whittingham, S by Lander in Berwick-
shire, W by Yester and Haddington, and N W by Morham.
Its utmost length, from NNE to SSW, is 8J miles; its
breadth varies between If and 4J miles; and its area
is 13,442 acres. The northern division, comprising
about one-fourth of the entire area, is a lowland tract,
all rich in the characters of soil, cultivation, and beauty,
that mark the great plain of East Lothian; but the other
divisions consist of portions of the Lammermuir Hills,
ascending to their watershed at the Berwickshire border,
and are mostly bleak, heathy, and mossy, with occasional
patches of verdure. In the N the surface declines to
390 feet above sea-level, and rises thence to 900 at Snaw-
don, 1250 at Rangely Kipp, and 1631 at Lowrans Law.
Hopes Water and two other head-streams of Gilford
Water, descending from the southern heights, unite near
the western boundary, and pass into Yester on their way
to the Tyne. Papana Water rises on the south-eastern
border, and, winding 5 miles northward through the in-
terior, past the village, to the northern boundary, pro-
ceeds thence, under different names, to the sea at Bel-
haven Bay; within this parish it runs along a very rocky
bed, and is subject to violent freshets, sweeping down
stones of great weight, and overflowing portions of its
banks. In 1755 it rose to so great a volume as to flood
some houses in the village to the depth of 3 feet. The
rocks in the N include excellent sandstone, which has
been quarried ; and those of the hills are chiefly Silurian.
The soil in the N is a deep rich clay; in the NE is of a
light gravelly nature; and on the hills is thin and spongy.
An ancient circular camp, 1500 feet in circumference, is
on Garvald farm, and four or five others are dotted over
the hills. Whitecastle and Yester Castle are the chief
antiquities ; the two mansions, Hopes and Nunraw
Castle, are noticed separately. Garvald is in the pres-
d synod of Lothian and Tweed-
L 253. The parish church, at
the village, is an old building, enlarged in 1829, and
containing 360 sittings. There is also a Free church;
and a public school, with accommodation for 125 chil-
dren, has an average attendance of 60, and a grant of
about 57. Valuation (1883) 9320, 10s., (1892) 7254,
2s. 6d. Pop. (1881) 758, (1891) 600. Ord. Sur., sh.
33, 1863.
Garvald or Garrel, an ancient parish and a burn in
Dumfriesshire. The parish was annexed, about 1674,
partly to Johnstone, chiefly to Kirkmichael; and it
continues to give name to the two farms of Upper and
Nether Garrel. Its church, rebuilt so late as 1617,
stood on the right bank of Garvald Burn, 3 miles NE
of Kirkmichael church; and now is represented by
ruined walls and an enclosed burying-ground. The
burn, rising at an altitude of 1050 feet above sea-level,
winds 7J miles south-south-eastward through all the
length of the parish, till it glides into Ae Water, 2 miles
NNW of Lochmaben. With a total descent of 860 feet,
it forms a number of tiny cascades and cataracts, making
in one place a fall of 18 feet over a mural rock. Ord.
Sur., sh. 10, 1864.
Garvald or Garrel, a hill and a burn in Kilsyth parish,
S Stirlingshire. The hill is part of the Kilsyth range,
and culminates 2| miles NW by N of Kilsyth town
at an altitude of 1381 feet above sea-level. The burn,
issuing from a reservoir on a high plateau, 1J mile
WSW of the hill's summit, and running 1J eastward
under the name of Birkeu Burn, proceeds 2 miles
south-eastward to Kilsyth town, during which course it
makes an aggregate descent of 1000 feet, necessarily
forming cataracts and falls. It next goes 1J mile south-
westward across Kilsyth plain to the river Kelvin; but,
in traversing the plain, is so drawn off for water-power
and to a lake as to be generally dry except during a
freshet. Ore?. Sur., sh. 31, 1867.
Garvald or Garwald Water, a stream of Eskdalemuir
parish, Dumfriesshire, rising, on the southern slope of
ETTEICK PEN, at an altitude of 1850 feet, close to the
Selkirkshire border, and thence winding 63 miles south-
41
GARVELLOOH
south-eastward and east-north-eastward till it falls into
the AVhite Esk, 2 miles NNW of Eskdalemuir church.
It receives a number of mountain tributaries, and makes
a magnificent waterfall, called Garvald Linn. This linn
is a long descent over a stony channel, sloping here, and
there precipitous, between rocky flanks, for the most
part naked, but clothed at intervals with copse and
brushwood; and forms now a cascade, now a capricious
cataract, now a rushing rapid. Ore?. Sur., sh. 16, 1864.
Garvald House, a mansion in Linton parish, NW
Peeblesshire, near the left bank of South Medwin Water,
1 J mile NW of Dolphinton station, and 4J miles WSW
of West Linton. Having passed by marriage to the
Dicks of Prestonfield from a family of the name of
Douglas, it was purchased in 1827 for 11,650 by John
Woddrop, Esq. of Dalmarnock, whose son, William
Allan -Woddrop, Esq. (b. 1829; sue. 1845), is present
proprietor. See BIGGAR. Ord. Sur., sh. 24. 1864.
Garvald Point. See GKEENOCK.
Garvan, a hamlet at the mouth of Glen Garvan, in the
Argyllshire section of Kilmallie parish, on the southern
shore of upper Loch Eil towards its head, 9J miles W
by N of Fort William.
Garvary or Blar Garvary, a hill (864 feet) in Kincar-
dine parish, Ross-shire, 2f miles SSW of the church.
Garve, a hamlet, river, and loch on the mutual border
of Contin and Fodderty parishes, Ross-shire. The
hamlet, with a hotel and a station on the Diugwall and
Skye railway, is llf miles W by N of Dingwall and
about a mile NW of the loch, and has a post and railway
telegraph office. The river rises on the Dirriemore
Mountains, and runs about 18 miles to the Conan. The
loch, lying 220 feet above sea-level, has an utmost
length and breadth of 1J and \ mile, has finely wooded
shores, is traversed by the BLACKWATER, and contains
abundance of trout, running 2 or 3 to the Ib. Through
Strath Garve, which emerges here, lies the coach road
to Ullapool, alougside of which the ground has been
surveyed for a proposed Garve and Ullapool railway.
Ord, Sur., sh. 83, 1881.
Garv-Eilan or Garbh-Eilean, the north-westernmost
of the three Shiant Isles in the Outer Hebrides, Ross-
shire, in the North Minch, 4J miles ESE of the nearest
point of the Lewis, and 21 S of Stornoway. Triangular
in shape, it has an utmost length and breadth of 74 and
3 furlongs; is separated from Ellan-na-Kelly only by
a neck of rolled peebles, commonly dry, except at a
concurrence of spring tide and tempestuous wind; has a
surface diversified with hollows and declivities; and
abounds in rich pasture. Ord. Sur., sh. 99, 1858.
Garvellan. See GAKAN.
Garvelloch, a group of four pastoral islets in Jura
parish, Argyllshire, 2J miles W of Lunga. They ex-
tend 4 miles from NE to SW, and are nowhere more than
J mile broad; are now valuable solely on account of the
excellence of their pasture for sheep and black cattle;
but have yielded marble, a specimen of which exists at
Inverary Castle. Adamnan terms them Iiisula Hinba
or Ninbina, and in 545 St Brendan seems to have
fouuded a monastery on the most westerly of the group,
Eilean na Naoimh (' island of the saints '). Swept away
by the defeat of the Dalriadan Scots in 560, this monas-
tery was refouuded a few years after by St Columba;
and 'still,' says Dr Skene, 'there are remains of some
very primitive ecclesiastical buildings which we can
identify with Columba's monastery, the first he founded
alter that of lona, and which, fortunately for us, owing
to the island being uninhabited, not very accessible, and
little visited, have not disappeared before the improving
hand of man. The remains are grouped together about
the middle of the island, on its north-eastern side.
Here there is a small sheltered port or harbour, and near
it a spring of water termed Tobar Challum na Cldlle, or
Columba's Well. Near the shore, S of this, in a shel-
tered grassy hollow, are the remains of the cemetery,
with traces of graves of great age; and adjoining it a
square enclosure, or small court, on the E of which are
the remains of buildings of a domestic character. N of
this is the church, a roofless building, formed of slates
OABVEL POINT
without mortar, and measuring 25 feet by 15. NE of
this is a building resembling the cells appropriated to
the abbots of these primitive monasteries. Farther off,
on higher ground, are the remains of a kiln, and on a
slope near the shore two beehive cells resembling those
used by anchorites.' See Appendix to Dr Reeves'
Adamnan (Edinb. 1874), and vol. ii., pp. 78, 97, 128,
246, of Dr Skene's Celtic Scotland (Edinb. 1877).
Garvel Point. See GREENOOK.
Garvock is a parish in Kincardineshire, bounded on
the NE by the parish of Arbuthnott, on the SE by Ben-
holm and St Cyrus, on the SW by Marykirk, and on
the NW by Laurencekirk. Its extreme length, from
NE to SW, is rather more than 7 miles; its greatest
breadth, from NW to SE, about 4 miles; and its area is
7982 acres, of which 16 are water. The name is derived
from two Celtic words denoting a ' rough marsh or
meadow.' Though cultivation has '
ch in the
way of improvement, there are still parts of the parish
to which the original name is not inappropriate. It is
intersected, but very unequally, by what is distinctively
named the 'Hill of Garvock,' a range of high land
covered with heath. On the NW of this ridge are
Barnhill and the upper lands of several farms otherwise
lying in Laurencekirk. On its S lies much the larger
part of the parish, descending gently to form a hollow
plain, chiefly of cultivated land, and rising again to
higher ground (where it borders upon Benholm and St
Cyrus), varied by a single narrow opening, the source of
the romantic Den Finella. Bervie Water, well known
to anglers, winds 1 J mile along the border of Garvock,
separating it from Arbuthnott. It receives two incon-
siderable streams in the parish, one of them flowing,
when not checked by drought, through the picturesque
Woodburnden. The surface of the parish along the
Bervie Water is 140 feet above the level of the sea. It
rises thence, and at Denhead attains a height of 462
feet, falling on the SE border to 455 feet. The three
highest points of the Hill of Garvock are cairns, situated
from the parish church respectively 7 furlongs NE, 3
furlongs NW, and 12 furlongs SW, and their various
altitudes being 854, 813, and 915 feet. On the last the
tower of Johnston is built. Those cairns and others in
different parts of the parish are supposed to be relics of
the Druids; and several have been found to contain
evidence of having been places of sepulture at a very
ly period. There is one on Barnhill, which tradition
.rks as the grave of two travelling merchants who,
early in the 18th century, quarrelled and fought on the
spot, and were both killed. Here it may be no' '
the words of Mr Jervise, that ' stone cists, flint
heads, and curious stone balls have been found
ous parts of Garvock ; and in March 1875 there was
discovered, at a depth of 15 inches, in a gravel hillock
near Brownies' Leys, an oval-shaped vessel made of
burned clay, about 11 inches deep by about 8 inches
wide, and containing part of a skull and other human
remains. ' But the spot which has attained the greatest
celebrity is that known as Brownies' Kettle, or Sheriffs
Kettle, on the farm of Brownies' Leys and estate of Davo.
Here was the caldron in which John Melville of Glen-
bervie, Sheriff of the Mearns, met his cruel fate at the
hands of his brother barons, being ' sodden and suppit
in bree,' in literal compliance with the too hasty sen-
tence of his majesty James I. The story is too well
known for a detailed account to be given here. The
unnatural deed was perpetrated about 1420 or 1421,
and on 1 Sept. of the latter year, Hugh Arbuthnott,
George Barclay, Alexander Falconer, William the Gra-
ham, Gilbert Middleton, Patrick Barclay, and Alexander
of Graham were received ' to the lawes of Clane Macduff
for the deid of quhillome John the Malaville, Laird of
Glenbervy.' The chief actor, David Barclay, preferred
to seek for safety by building the Kaim of Mathers, to
the security of which he retired for a time. The soil
has been described as 'mostly either thin or medium
loam resting on a hard subsoil, or stiff clayey loam lying
on a cold sour bottom. Considering that a large portion
of this parish consists of uncultivated hilly ground, the
GARVOCK
rise in rental must be regarded as very large. As already
indicated a large extent of land has been reclaimed on
the slope of Garvock Hill during the last twenty-five
years' (Trails. Highl. and Ag. Soc., 1881, p. 112).
Tradition bears that a large part of Garvock was in
ancient times a forest, and there are traces of the deer-
dyke by which it was enclosed. It is uncertain how
much interest was held in the parish by Hugh le Blond,
who had owned the patronage, and land also in the
neighbourhood, of the church, or how long that interest
continued in the family of Arbuthnott. But in the first
quarter of the 14th century the lands of Garuocis were
among the gifts to Sir Alexander Fraser, Thane of Cowie,
brother-in-law of King Robert I., and Great Chamberlain
of Scotland, who fell at the Battle of Dupplin in 1329.
His grand -daughter, Margaret Fraser, became the wife
of Sir William Keith, founder of the castle of Dunnottar,
and the barony of Garuocis was for several generations in
possession of the Keiths-Marischal. It is included in
charters to the first earl and the fourth, who died in
1581. In his time a lease of the lands of Shiells was
given to James Keith, great-grandson of the second earl,
'a man of parts and merits,' devoted to Queen Mary,
a favourite of his chief, and captain of the castle of Dun-
nottar. He was head of the family of Craig, and, though
possessed of lauds in several counties, including some in
Garvock, he made his residence on Shiells. There he
had virtually exercised the powers of baron, administer-
ing justice and holding councils on the Baron-hill (Barn-
hill); while the adjoining height, still known as Callow-
bank, had been utilised by the grim ' finisher ' of the
law. The 17th century began the breaking up of the
barony into various holdings. Before 1628, Bradieston
('town of the flat meadow land') was in possession of
Robert Keith, grandson of the above-mentioned James,
and Provost of Montrose, who subsequently acquired the
barony of Scotston and Powburn and the lands of Haddo.
He was commissioner from the burgh of Montrose in the
Scottish Parliament of 1639, and he died in 1666. His
initials, 'R. 1666 K.,' with shield and crest, are still
found on a stone which had been part of a funeral
monument, and is now built into a wall of the church.
The lands of Balhagarty ('town of the priest') are
known to have belonged in 1637 to Earl Marischal, and
they were in possession of Scott of Scotstarvet before
1672. There was a charter of the lands of Whitefield
in 1617 to Sir Robert Arbuthnott and his wife, Mary
Keith; and in 1677 the Hon. Alexander, younger son
of the first Viscount Arbuthnott, had a charter of the
lands of Tullochs ('little hills '). In the last quarter of
the 17th century three branches of a distinguished
family were conterminous proprietors. In 1672 the
lands of Barnhill and Henstown were in possession of
Lord Falconer of Haulkerton; in 1682 Smiddiehill and
adjoining parts belonged to Sir David Falconer of New-
ton; and in 1684 the lands of Shiells were disponed to
Sir Alexander Falconer of Glenfarquhar. The eldest
branch succumbed, and the Haulkerton title and estates
passed to Glenfarquhar, who enjoyed them only foi
three years, when David Falconer of Newton succeeded,
as fifth Lord Falconer; and, coming into possession o
the whole lands which had belonged to the threi
families, was probably the largest heritor of Garvock fo:
the time. Space cannot be given for a detailed accoun
of the transmission of the various lands to their presen:
respective proprietors, but it may be stated that in
course of this transition the parish numbered among it ;
heritors more branches than one of the Barclays, descend -
ants of the once powerful De Berkeleys. The churc L
was rated in 1 275 at 1 8 merks. In 1 282 Hugh le Blonc ,
Lord of Arbuthenoth, granted to the monks of Arbroat i
the patronage of the church of Garvock, with an ox-gan ^
of land and some common pasture. The earliest re-
corded vicar was William, who did homage to Kin,'
Edward in 1296. Coming to Reformation times, tl o
church with three others was served, in 1574, by 01 e
minister, who had the Kirklands and a money stipei 1
of 133, 6s. 8d. Scots. The reader had 20 Scot-.
There has been no vacancy in the office of parish minn-
QAEVOCK
ter since 1698, the successive incumbents having all had
assistants and successors ordained before their death.
The stipend is returned as 189; the manse (built in
1866) is valued at 25, and the glebe at 15. The
church (built in 1778) is seated for about 300 people.
The churchyard has a few old gravestones; and on the
manse offices there is the fragment of one with date
1603. The church was dedicated to St James; and a
well in the den near the manse, called St James's Well,
had the reputation once of working miraculous cures.
St James's Fair, now at Laurencekirk, was long held
near the church on Barnhill, where the site may still
be traced by the turf seats which did service in the
various tents. The parish has always been well pro-
vided with the means of education. The public school
(built in 1866) has accommodation for 92 pupils, with
an average attendance of about 50, and a government
grant of over 60. The valuation of the parish, in
1856, was 4215. In 1883 it had reached 6270, 13s.
lid., but in 1892 it had fallen to 4548. The popula-
tion, in 1755, was 755; in 1801 it was 468. The highest
point it has reached since was 485 in the year 1811;
the census of 1881 reduced it to 428; and in 1891 it
was 415. Ord. Sur., shs. 66, 57, 1871-68.
Garvock, an estate, with a modern mansion, in Dun-
ning parish, Perthshire, 1 mile ENE of the town of
that name. Its owner is Robert Grame, Esq. (1841;
sue. 1859).
Gascon Hall, an ancient castle, now a ruin, in the
SE corner of Trinity Gask parish, Perthshire, on the N
bank of the Earn, 1J mile WNW of Dunning station.
Tradition makes it the place where Sir William Wallace,
according to Blind Harry's narrative, encountered the
ghost of Faudon; but it must have been built long
after Wallace's day. The real Gascon Hall appears to
have stood about 1 mile NE of this castle, on a spot
amid the present woods of Gask.
Gask or Findo Gask, a hamlet and a parish in Strath-
earn district, Perthshire. The hamlet lies 1J mile SSE
of Balgowan station, and 2J miles N by W of Dunning
station, this being 9i miles WSW of Perth, and 4|
NE of Auchterarder, under which there is a post office
of Gask.
The parish, containing also CLATHY village, and hav-
ing BALGOWAN station on its north-western border, is
bounded NW by Madderty and Methven, E by Tibber-
more and Forteviot, S by Dunning, SW by Auchter-
arder, and W by Trinity Gask. Its utmost length, from
N to S, is 4 miles; its utmost breadth, from E to W, is
2J miles; and its area is 5227J acres, of which 42 are
water. The river EARN, winding 3J miles eastward
roughly traces all the southern boundary; and the sur-
face, sinking along it to close upon 30 feet above sea-
level, thence rises gently to 382 feet near Charlesfield,
and 427 near the manse, from which point it again slopes
softly down to 190 feet along Cowgask Burn, flowing 1J
mile south-westward on the boundary with Madderty.
Sandstone and grey slate have both been quarried, and
marl occurs in several places. The soil is partly argil-
laceous, partly a fertile loam. More than 1200 acres
are under wood. A Roman road, traversing the summit
ridge, on the line of communication between two camps
in Scone and Muthill parishes, has a breadth of 20 feet,
and consists of compactly-built rough stones. It is
flanked, at intervals, by traces of fortified posts, each
to be garrisoned by from 12 to 19 men. One of these
posts has from time immemorial been called the Witch
Knowe, and is said to have been the scene of executions
for the imputed crime of sorcery. William Taylor,
D.D. (1744-1823), afterwards Principal of Glasgow Uni-
versity, was minister of Gask; and natives were Thomas
Smeaton (1536-83), an early Presbyterian divine, and
the sculptor, Lawrence Macdonald (1798-1878). So,
too, was Carolina Oliphant, Lady Nairne (1766-1845),
who was author of The Laird o' CocJcpen, The Land o'
t/ie Leal, The Auld House, and others of Scotland's
choicest songs. Her ancestor, Sir William Oliphant,
about the beginning of the 14th century, acquired broad
lands in Perthshire from Kobert the Bruce, and became
GATEHOUSE
the Lord of Gasknes and Aberdalgie; and Lawrence
Oliphant, his descendant, was in 1458 created Lord
Oliphant. The fifth of the title, ' ane base and unworthy
man,' soon after 1600 sold all his great estates but Gask,
which in 1625 was purchased by his cousin, the first of
the 'Jacobite lairds.' On 11 Sept 1745, Prince Charles
Edward breakfasted at the 'auld house,' and a lock of
his hair is still a family heirloom; in the following
February Gask was ransacked by the Hanoverians. The
present mansion, begun in 1801, stands 9 furlongs SW
of the hamlet, amid finely-wooded grounds, and is the
seat of Mr T. L. Kington Oliphant. Gask is in the
presbytery of Auchterarder and synod of Perth and
Stirling; the living is worth 193. The church, at
the hamlet, was built in 1800. A public school, with
accommodation for 75 children, has an average attend-
ance of about 50, and a grant of nearly 60. Valuation
(1882) 5119, 3s. 6d., (1892) 4277, 13s. lOd. Pop.
(1801) 601, (1831) 428, (1861) 399, (1871) 369, (1881)
364, (1891) 361. Ord. Sur., shs. 47, 48, 1869-68. See
T. L. Kington Oliphant's Jacobite Lairds of Gask (Gram-
pian Club, 1870).
Gask Hill. See COLLESSIE.
Gask House, an old mansion in Turriff parish, Aber-
deenshire, If mile S by E of the town. From the
Forbeses it passed through several hands to the fourth
Earl of Fife early in the 19th century, but now is merely
a farmhouse.
Gasstown, a village in Dumfries parish, Dumfries-
shire, 14 mile SSE of Dumfries town, under which
it has a post office. It was founded about 1810 by
Joseph Gass. Pop., with Heathery Row, (1871) 521,
(1881) 467, (1891) 363.
Gatehead, a collier village in the S of Kilmaurs parish,
Ayrshire, near the right bank of the river Irvine, 24
miles WSW of Kilmarnock. It has a station on the
Kilmarnock and Ayr section of the Glasgow and South-
western railway.
Gatehope, a burn in Peebles parish, Peeblesshire, ris-
ing at an altitude of 1750 feet on the southern slope of
Garden Law (1928), near the meeting-point with Inr
leithen and Eddleston parishes. Thence it i
miles south-south-westward, till, after a total de
1245 feet, it (alls into the Tweed 5 furlongs ESE of
Peebles town. Ord. Sur., sh. 24, 1864.
Gatehouse, a town of SW Kirkcudbrightshire, on the
Water of Fleet, 9 miles WNW of Kirkcudbright and 6
SE by S of Drumore, with both of which it communi-
cates twice a day by coach. Comprising Gatehouse
proper on the left bank of the river in Girthon parish,
and Fleet Street suburb on the right bank in Anwoth
parish, it has picturesque environs, that ascend from
luxuriant valley to an amphitheatre of distant hills, and
commands navigable communication 1J mile down Fleet
Water to that river's expansion into Fleet Bay or estuary,
and so to Wigtown Bay and the Irish Sea. It sprang,
about the middle of the 18th century, from a single house
situated at the gate of the avenue to CALLY House
hence its name Gatehouse-of-Fleet and rapidly rose to
manufacturing importance, so as to have, at the begin-
ning of the 19th century, four cotton factories, a fair
proportion of cotton-weaving hand-looms, a wine com-
pany, a brewery, a tannery, and workshops for nearly
every class of artisans. It made a grand ett'ort, too, by
deepening Fleet Water to the sea and otherwise, to
establish a great commercial trade, and seemed for a
time to menace the Glasgow of the West with the
energetic rivalry of a Glasgow of the South. Somewhat
suddenly it suffered such arrest to further progress as
has made it from 1815 stationary or retrograde; and
now its only industrial works are 2 bobbin works, and
several sawmills. Still, it consists of neat and regular
streets, and presents, in its main body or Gatehouse
proper, a sort of miniature of the original New Town
of Edinburgh, being one of the handsomest towns in
Galloway, equalled indeed by very few in Scotland.
The town-hall, erected by subscription in 1885 at a cost
of about 1000, is in the old Scotch style, with a front
gable surmounted by saddle -backed crow -steps and
i -U
lit. Of
finial. To the front of the vestibule is the entrance
to the hall, which is 50 feet by 33, and can accommo-
date about 400 persons. To the right is the cloak-room,
and to the left a stair leading to the second story, where
is a room, 25 feet by 14, in which council, committee,
and other meetings are held. At the farther end of the
large hall is a raised platform, in an arched recess at the
back of which is a very large and magnificent painting
executed by Mr John Faed, R.S.A., and presented by
him to the town. The subject is the town of Gatehouse
and its surroundings, from the artist's residence of Ard-
more. The view includes the old castle, Rutherford's
Monument on a hill near the town, with the hills and
sea in the background. Barlay Mill, a short distance
from Gatehouse, is the birthplace of the donor, and of
his two artist brothers James and Thomas. The town
lias a post office, with money order, savings bank,
insurance, and telegraph departments, branches of the
Bank of Scotland and the Union Bank, several insur-
ance companies, 2 hotels, a handsome clock-tower, a
fine stone bridge across the Fleet, the parish church,
a Free church, a United Presbyterian church, an Epis-
copalian church, a public news-room, a gas company, a
literary association, Masonic, Oddfellows', and Foresters'
lodges, a Rechabite tent, bowling, cricket, and football
clubs, a weekly market on Saturday, a cattle market
on the second Saturday of every month, and hiring fairs
on the Saturdays before Castle-Douglas fair. The clock-
tower, of Craignair granite, built in 1871, stands at the
N end of the principal street, and rises to a height of 75
feet. The bridge succeeded one of the 13th century,
has twice been widened, and comprises two spacious
arches. The parish church of Girthon was built in 1817 ;
that of Anwoth, built in 1826, stands If mile W by S.
The United Presbyterian church is in the Fleet Street
suburb; and the Episcopalian church stands in the
grounds of Cally. The improvement on the Fleet's
navigation includes a canal or straight cut along the
river, made at a cost of about 3000, and enables vessels
of 60 tons burden to come up to the town. The exports
are principally grain, timber, and wood, and the im-
ports principally coal and lime. The town was made
a burgh of barony, by royal charter, in 1795, and is
governed by a provost, 2 bailies, and 4 councillors,
while by the Burgh Police (Scotland) Act of 1892 it has
9 commissioners including the provost and two bailies.
A justice of peace small debt court is held on the first
Saturday of every month. Three schools Girthon,
Cally, and Fleetside with respective accommodation
for 188, 139, and 175 children, have an average attend-
ance of about 130, 80, and 110, and grants of over
140, 76, and 118. The municipal constituency
numbered 90 in 1892. Pop. (1851) 1750, (1861) 1635,
(1871) 1503, (1831) 1286, (1891) 1226, of whom 330 were
in Anwoth. Ord. Sur., sh. 5, 1857.
Gateside, a village in Beith parish, Ayrshire, 1 mile
E by S of Beith town. Pop. (1881) 374, (1891) 326.
Gateside, a village in Keilston parish, Renfrewshire,
on the lelt side of Levern Water, and on the Glasgow
and Neilston railway, 1J mile WSW of the centre of
Barrhead. One of the cluster of seats of manufacture
now forming the police burgh of Barrhead, it had a
cotton factory so early as 1786. Pop. (1861) 455, (1871)
399, (1881) 465, (1891) 446.
Gateside, a small village in Kirkgunzeon parish,
Kirkcudbrightshire, 3 furlongs ESE of Kirkgunzeon
church, and 4J miles NNE of Dalbeattie.
Gateside, a farm in Caraldston parish, Forfarshire,
near the N bank of the South Esk, 4J miles W by S of
Brechin. It is supposed to adjoin the site of the Roman
station JEsica, and to have got its name from a gate or
port of the station towards the river.
Gateside, a village in Whitburn parish, Linlithgow-
shire, 4. mile W by S of Whitburn town.
Gateside, a hamlet in Markinch parish, Fife, 14 mile
NNW of Markinch village.
Gateside, a village in Strathmiglo parish, Fife, with
a post office. See EDENSHEAD.
Gattonside, a village in Melrose parish, Roxburgh-
GEABR ABHAINN
shire, on the left side of the Tweed, 1 mile N by W of
Melrose town, under which it has a post office, and with
which it communicates by a foot suspension-bridge.
Lying scattered among groves and orchards, 300 feet
above sea-level, it retains some traces of a large and
beautiful pre-Reformation chapel; it is celebrated for
both the quality and the quantity of its fruit; and it
is overlooked, on the N, from Allen Water to Leader
Water, by a range of softly outlined heights, the Gat-
tonside Hills, that culminate at 927 feet. Gattonside
was granted by David I. to Melrose Abbey in 1143, and
places round it still bear such names as the Abbot's
Meadow, the Vineyard, Friar's Close, the Cellary
Meadow, etc. Gattonside House, J mile to the W, is
the seat of H. Mungall, Esq. Ord. Sur., sh. 25, 1865.
Gauhsness, a place on the W coast of Dunrossness
parish, Shetland, near Fitful Head. A vein or bed of
iron pyrites here was, many years ago, unsuccessfully
worked with the view of finding copper ore; and then
produced many hundred tons of iron pyrites, which
were thrown into the sea.
Gauir or Gaoire, a stream of Fortingall parish, NW
Perthshire, issuing from Loch LAIDON (924 feet), which
at its head receives the BA, and winding 7 miles east-
ward to Loch RANNOOH (668 feet), mainly across bleak
Rannoeh Muir. It expands midway, in times of heavy
rain, into a large temporary lake, Loch Eigheach; forms
several tumultuous far-sounding waterfalls; enters the
head of Loch Rannoeh by two channels, enclosing a,
green triangular islet; and contains abundance of trout,
running from J to 3 lba.0rd. Sur., sh. 64, 1873.
Gauldry. See GALDEY.
Gavel. See GEIL.
Gavieside, a village of recent origin in West Calder
parish, Edinburghshire, 2 miles N by E of West Calder
town. Pop. (1871) 550, (1881) 456, (1891) 555.
Gavinton, a village in Langton parish, Berwickshire,
2 miles SW of Duns. Built in 1760 to supersede the
ancient village of Langton, which stood J mile to the
N, it took its name from Mr Gavin, the then proprietor,
and is a neat place, on a regular plan, with a post office
under Duns and Langton parish church.
Gawreer or Gamer, a burn in Cunuinghame district,
Ayrshire, rising 2 miles S by W of Stewarton, and run-
ning 6J miles south-south-westward along the boundary
between Dreghorn parish on the right and Kilmaurs on
the left, till it falls into Carmel Water, 44 furlongs
above the Carmel's influx to the river Irvine. Ord.
Sur., sh. 22, 1865.
Gaylet Pot or Geary Pot, a cavern and a natural
shaft on the coast of St Vigeans parish, Forfarshire,
about a mile S of Auchmithie village. The cavern,
piercing the base of a cliff 150 feet high, opens from
the sea in a rude archway about 70 feet high and 40
wide, penetrates the land to the distance of 300 feet,
and gradually contracts to a minimum height and
width of 10 or 12 feet. The shaft opens in the midst
of an arable field, goes perpendicularly down to the
extremity of the cavern, is proximately circular at the
mouth, measures there 150 feet in diameter, and, in its
descent to the cavern, has an outline resembling that
of an inverted urn. The sea enters the cavern, and
takes up to the foot of the shaft the fluctuations of the
tide; and when it is urged by an easterly wind, it
bursts in at high water with amazing impetuosity,
surges and roars with a noise which only the great depth
and contractedness of the shaft prevent from being
heard at a considerable distance, and then recedes with
proportionate violence, and makes a bellowing exit from
the cavern's mouth. Ord. Sur., sh. 57, 1868.
Geanach or Gannoch, a mountain in Birse parish, S
Aberdeenshire, 4 miles WNW of Mount Battock, near
the meeting-point with Kincardiueshire and Forfarshire.
It belongs to the Grampian range, and has an altitude
of 2396 feet above sea-level.
Geanies House. See FEAEN, Ross-shire.
Gearr Abhainn, a river in Inverary parish, Argyll-
shire, running 5 furlongs southward from the river
Shira's expansion of DOULOCH to Loch Fyne. Its
iacei
lull >
GEARY POT
water is alternately fresh and salt, according to the ebb
or flow of the tide; and is well stored with trout, sal-
mon, white fish, and shell fish. Its name signifies
'short river,' and alludes to the shortness of its course.
Ord. Sur., sh. 37, 1876.
Geary Pot. See GATLET POT.
Geauly or Gieuly. See GELDIE BURN.
Geddes House, a mansion in Nairn parish, Nairnshire,
4 miles S of Nairn town. Standing amid highly em-
bellished grounds, it is the seat of John Mackintosh-
Walker, Esq. See NAIRN. Ord. Sur., sh. 84, 1876.
. Geil or Glengavel Water, a rivulet in Avondalo
parish, Lanarkshire, rising close to the Ayrshire bor-
der, and running 5 miles north-north-westward, till it
falls into the Avon at a point 5| miles SW of Strathaven.
Ord. Sur., sh. 23, 1865.
Geldie Burn, a trout and salmon stream of Crathie
and Braemar parish, SW Aberdeenshire, rising, at an
altitude of 2300 feet above sea-level, 9 furlongs SE of
the meeting-point of Aberdeen, Perth, and Inverness
shires, and running 8J miles northward and eastward,
till, alter a total descent of 982 feet, it falls into the
Dee at a point 3 miles WSW of the Linn of Dee. See
FESHIE. Ord. Sur., sh. 64, 1874.
Geletra. See GOMETRA.
Gelly, Fife. See LOCHGELLY.
Gelston or Gilston, a village in Kelton parish, Kirk-
cudbrightshire, 2J miles SSE of Castle-Douglas, under
which it has a post office. Gelston Castle, 4 mile SE
of the village, was built by the late Sir William Douglas,
Bart., and is now the property of Major William F. M.
Kirwan. An ancient parish of Gelston now forms' the
uth-eastern district of Kelton. Its church stood ad-
it to a ravine or gill, traversed by a brook, and has
s vestiges. Ord. Sur., sh. 5, 1857.
Gelt or Guelt Water, an Ayrshire burn formed by the
confluence of Back Lane and Clocklowie Burn, and wind-
ing 4J miles west-north-westward along the boundary
between New and Old Cumnock on the left and Auchin-
leck on the right, till it unites with Glenmore Water at
Kyle Castle, 6 miles E of Cumnock town. Ord. Sur.,
sh. 15, 1864.
General's Bridge. See BOWHILL.
General's Hut. See FOYERS.
Genoch, an estate, with an old-fashioned mansion, in
Old Luce parish, Wigtownshire, li mile SW of Dunragit
station.
George, Fort, a strong regular fortress in Ardersier
parish, Inverness-shire, on a promontory projecting into
the Moray Firth, 3J miles NNW of Fort George station
on the Highland railway, this being 5| miles WSW of
Nairn and 9J NE of Inverness. Station and fortress
have each a post office, with money order, savings bank,
and telegraph departments. The fort, built three years
after the rebellion of 1745, at an estimated cost of
120,000, but an actual cost of more than 100,000,
covers 16 acres of ground ; has a polygonal line,
with six bastions; is defended, on the land side, by
a ditch, a covert way, a glacis, two lunettes, and a.
ravelin; is bomb-proof and strong, yet could readily be
assailed from neighbouring ground; and contains accom-
modation for 2000 men. It is the depot of the Seaforth
Highlanders; and its inmates numbered 1118 in 1891,
of whom 904 were military. Pending the construction
of the Highland railway's branch line to the fort from
Fort George station on the main line, conveyances for
passengers run in connection with all trains. A small
pier projects from the fort for the use of the ferry boats
which here communicate with the opposite or Black
Isle shore. Ord. Sur., sh. 84, 1876.
Georgemas Junction, a station in Halldrk parish,
Caithness, on the Sutherland and Caithness railway,
14 miles WNW of Wick, and 6J SSE of Thurso.
Georgetown, a village in Dumfries parish, Dumfries-
shire, 2J miles ESE of the town.
Gerardine's Cave. See DRAINIE.
Geylet Pot. See GAYLET POT.
Geyzen Briggs, a shoal or broad bar across the Dor-
noch Firth, on the mutual border of Ross-shire and
GIFFOED
Sutherland, 3 miles below Tain. It greatly obstructs
navigation, and sometimes occasions a tumultuous roar
of breakers.
Gharafata, a headland in Kilmuir parish, Isle of
Skye, Inverness-shire.
Ghost's Knowe. See CRAIGENGELT.
Ghulbhuinn or Ben Gulabin, a hill (2641 feet) at the
head of Glenshee in Kirmichael parish, NE Perthshire.
Giant's Chair, a picturesque spot on the river Dullan,
in Mortlach parish, Banffshire. A beautiful small cas-
cade here is called the Linen Apron.
Giant's Fort (Gael. Dun-na-foghmfutr'), one of two
conjoint ancient circular enclosures in the southern
division of Killean and Kilchenzie parish, Kintyre,
Argyllshire. The other is called Dun Fhinn or Fingal's
Fort. They have few characters definable by anti-
quaries; but they attract the attention of travellers,
and are vulgarly regarded as ancient residences of Fingal
and his giants.
Giant's Leg, a natural arch on the S coast of Bressay
island, Shetland. It projects from a cliff into the sea,
and stands in such depth of water that boats can pass
through it in favourable weather.
Giant's Stone, a standing-stone in Tweedsmuir parish,
SW Peeblesshire, near the right bank of the Tweed, J
mile SSW of the church. It is 5 feet high, and adjoins
two smaller boulders.
Gibbieston, a village in Auchtergaven parish, Perth-
shire, 3i miles W by N of Bankfoot.
Gibbon. See CRAIG GIBBON.
Gibb's Cross, a place on the moors of Wedderlie farm
in Westruther parish, Berwickshire, 3 miles NNE of
Westruther village. It is traditionally said to have
been the scene of a martyrdom for the Protestant faith.
Giffen. See BEITH.
Gifferton or Giffordtown, a village in Collessie parish,
Fife, 1J mile NW of Ladybank. It is of modern erec-
tion, and consists of neat comfortable houses.
Giffnock, a hamlet in Eastwood parish, Renfrewshire,
1 J mile S of Pollokshaws, with a post office under Glas-
gow. It has a station on the Glasgow and Busby rail-
way, and lies near extensive quarries of an excellent
building sandstone, popularly called ' liver rock. '
Gifford, a village in the N of Yester parish, Hadding-
tonshire, lying 340 feet above sea-level, on the right
lford Water, 4 J miles SSE
bill introduced into Parliament in 1893 it was proposed
bank of Gil
,
iles SSE of Haddington. By
to construct a railway to Gilford and Garvald, deviating
from the Macmerry branch of the North British at
Ormiston. Set in a wooded vale, and sheltered by hills,
Gilford is a pretty little place, its two streets of unequal
length consisting chiefly of neat two-story houses, and
one of them ending in the fine long avenue that leads
up to Yester House. It has a post office under Had-
dington, with money order, savings bank, and telegraph
departments, an inn, a public school, a public hall
(1889), bowling and curling clubs, and fairs on the last
Tuesday of March, the third Tuesday of June, and the
first Tuesday of October. The old parish school is now
used for lectures, &c. Here, too, are Yester parish
church (1708) and a handsome new Free church (1880).
The latter occupies a prominent position on the rising-
ground above the village, and, built at a cost of 1700
in the Gothic style of the 14th century, has a NE tower
and spire. Gilford has claimed to be the birthplace of
John Knox, the great Reformer. Beza in his/cones (1580)
calls him 'Giifordiensis;' and Spottiswood states in his
History (1627) that Knox 'was born at Gilford in the
Lothians.' But two contemporary Catholic writers,
Archibald Hamilton(1577)andJames Laing(1581), assign
to Haddington the honour in question; and recent in-
vestigation has proved, moreover, that no village of Gif-
ford was in existence until the latter half of the 17th cen-
tury. So that the late David Laing, who in 1846 had fol-
lowed Knox's biographer, Dr. Thomas M'Crie, in prefer-
ring Gifford, reversed his verdict in 1864 in favour of the
Gi!tbrdgate,asuburbofHaddington(article'Knox'bythe
Rev. C. G. M'Crie, in Encycl. Britannica, 9th ed. vol. xiv. ,
1882). Two lesser divines at least were natives James
GIFFOKDGATE
Craig (1682-1744) and John Witherspoon, D.D. (1722-
94), the president of Princetown College, New Jersey.
Though the village thus is hardly two centuries old, it
derived its name from the Gilfords, who under William
the Lyon (1165-1214) added Yestred or Yester to their
Lothian possessions, and after whom the parish itself is
often, though not legally, called Gifford. Their male
line failed with one Sir Hugh in 1409, but his daughter
wedded an ancestor of the Marquis of Tweeddale, the
present superior of Gifford. Pop. (1861) 458, (1871)
455, (1881) 382, (1891) 305. Ord. Sur., sh. 33, 1863.
Giffordgate. See HADDINGTON.
Giffordtown. See GIFFERTON.
Gifford Water, a burn of Haddingtonshire, rising, as
Hopes Water, among the Lammermuirs, at an altitude
of 1500 feet, in the southern extremity of Garvald and
Bara parish, close to the Berwickshire border. Thence
it winds 11J miles northward and north-westward
through or along the borders of Garvald, Yester, Bol-
ton, and Haddington parishes, till it falls into the
Tyne, at a point If mile SSW of the town of Hadding-
ton, and 190 feet above sea-level. A first-rate trout-
stream of much gentle beauty, it traverses the wooded
grounds of Yester House, Eaglescarnie, Coalstoun, and
Lennoxlove, and bears in its Tower reaches the name of
Coalstoun Water. Ord. Sur., sh. 33, 1863.
Gigalum. See GIGUI/UH.
Gigha, an island and a parish of Argyllshire. The
island lies If mile W of the nearest point of Kintyre,
and by ferry from Ardminish is 2? miles NW of Monie-
more, near Tayinloan. It has a post office, and com-
municates by boat from its northern extremity with the
steamers on the passage between Tarbert and Port Ellen
or Port Askaig in Islay. It measures 6 miles in length
from NNE to SSW; varies in width between 1J furlong
and 1J mile; and, with the neighbouring island of CARA,
has an area of 3913J acres, of which 266J are foreshore.
Its coast is so jagged as to measure 25 miles in extent;
and, bold and rocky on the W side, has there two
caverns, the Great and the Pigeons' Caves, the latter
of which is coated with calcareous spar, and much fre-
quented by wild pigeons. At the south-western ex-
tremity it is pierced by a natural tunnel 133 feet long,
with two vertical apertures, and so invaded by surging
billows in a storm as to emit dense vapour and loud
noises. Much, too, of the E coast, although not high,
is bold and rocky enough; and here are various sandy
bays, very suitable for sea-bathing, whilst those of Ard-
minish, Druimyeon, and East Tarbert afford good anchor-
age. The harbour, on the N side of the islet of GIGULUM,
is much frequented by coasting vessels, and is considered
safe in all sorts of weather. The interior westward
attains 225 feet beyond the church, 260 at Meall
a Chlamaidh, and 153 at Cnoc Loisgte. The rocks
are mica slate, felspar slate, chlorite slate, and horn-
blende slate, with veins of quartz and a few transverse
dykes of basalt. The soil, except on the hills, is a
rich loam, with a mixture here and there of sand,
clay, or moss. About three-fifths of the land are in
tillage, but barely 7 acres are under wood. Springs
of good water are plentiful, and two of them afford
water-power to a corn-mill. Some ten boats are
'oyed during three or four months of the year in
and ling fishing on banks 2 or 3 miles distant.
Dunchifie or Keefe's Hill, towards the middle of the
island, appears to have been anciently crowned with a
strong fortification; and a hill, now used as a steamer
signal-post, at the northern end of the island, is crowned
by a cairn, called ' Watch Cairn,' and seems to have
formerly served as a beacon station for giving alarm
in case of invasion. Achamore House, 7 furlongs
SSW of the church, is the Scottish seat of the pro-
prietor, William James Yorke Scarlett, Esq. The
parish comprises also the brownie-haunted island of
Cara, 1 mile to the S of Gigha, and 185 feet high at
the Mull of Cara, with the uninhabited islet of Gigu-
lum in the sound between them, and bears the name
of Gigha and Cara. It is in the presbytery of Kintyre
and synod of Argyll; the living is worth 272. The
church, which stands at the head of Ardminish Bay, Iran
built about 1780, and contains 260 sittings. An ancient
chapel, i mile SSW, is now represented by ruined walls
and a burying-ground. A public school, with accommo-
dation for 75 children, has an average attendance of
about 70, and a grant of over 80. Pop. (1801) 556,
(1831) 534, (1861) 467, (1881) 382, (1891) 401, of whom
3 belonged to Cara. Ord. Sur. sh. 20, 1876. See
Captain Thomas P. White's Archaeological Sketches in
Kintyre and Gigha (2 vols., Edinb., 1873-75).
a small pastoral island of Barra parish, Outer
Inverness-shire, 2 miles SW of Eriskay, and
3 NE of the nearest point of Barra island.
Gight, a ruined castle in Fyvie parish, N Aberdeen-
shire, on the left bank of the Ythan, 3J miles ENE
of Woodhead or Fyvie village, and 9 SE of Turriff.
Crowning the brink of a rocky eminence, with the Braes
of Gight on one side and the Braes of Haddo or For-
martine on the other, it commands a circle of exquisite
scenery, dates from remote times, and continued to be
inhabited till the latter part of the 18th century. It
figures commonly in history as the House of Gight, was
plundered by the Covenanters in 1644, and now is re-
markable only for the great strength of its remaining
walls. The estate, having belonged for many gener-
ations to the Maitlands, became about 1479 the property
of William Gordon, third son of the second Earl of
Huntly. It remained in possession of his lineal descend-
ants till 1785, when the last heiress, Catherine Gordon
of Gight, married Hon. John Byron; so that it would
have passed to their son, Lord Byron the poet, had it
not been sold in 1787 to the third Earl of Aberdeen.
Ord. Sur., sh. 87, 1876.
Gighty, a burn of Forfarshire, rising near Rossie Re-
formatory, and running 5^ miles south-westward along
the borders of Craig, Maryton, Lunan, Kinnell, and In-
verkeilor parishes, till it falls into Lunan Water at a
point If mile E of Friockheim. It drives several mills.
Ord. Sur. sh. 57, 1868.
Gigulum, an uninhabited islet of Gigha parish, Argyll-
shire, in the sound between Gigha island and Cara. It
measures 2J furlongs by 1.
Gilbertfield, a decayed mansion in Cambuslang parish,
Lanarkshire, at the N base of Dechmont Hill, 1 mile
SE of the town. Built in 1607, it was for some time
the residence of Allan Ramsay's friend and brother-
poet, Lieutenant William Hamilton of Gilbertfield
(1670-1751).
Gil Burn, a rivulet in Borrowstounness parish, Lin-
lithgowshire, rising near the centre of the parish, and
running along a beautiful ravine to the Firth of Forth.
Its glen, according to tradition, is haunted by the
wraith of Ailie or Alice, Lady Lilburne, who threw her-
self down from the walls of Kinneil House, and who was
either the mistress of a Duke of Hamilton or the wife
of the Cromwellian colonel for some time resident at
Kinneil.
Gilcomston. See ABERDEEN.
Gildermorry, a place in Alness parish, Ross-shire.
It is the site of a pre-Reformation cnapel; and near it
are two huge stones of very extraordinary appearance,
Clach-nam-ban ('stone of the women'), which are said
to mark the spot where several women were smothered
by a snowstorm on their way to the chapel.
Gilfillan, a place near the middle of Sorbie parish,
Wigtownshire. It was the site of an ancient church.
Gill, a reach of the river Cree on the mutual boun-
dary of Kirkcudbrightshire and Wigtownshire, com-
mencing about a mile NNW of Minnigatf church. It
traverses a narrow gorge, richly fringed with wood, and
romantically picturesque.
Gill or Port Gill, a small bay on the mutual border
of Stonykirk and Kirkmaiden parishes, Wigtownshire,
8J miles SE by S of Portpatrick.
Gillander, a cave in the E of Golspie parish, Suther-
land. It occurs on the face of a white sandstone rock.
Gillean, an island in Lochalsh parish, Ross-shire. A
lighthouse was erected on the south east point of ths
island in 1857. Sec KYLE-AKIN.
Gills, a village and a bay in Canisbay parish, Caith-
ness. The village stands at the head of the bay, 1J mile
W of the parish church, and 15J miles E by N of Thurso.
The bay has a triangular outline, measuring 3 miles
across the entrance, and 7 furlongs thence to its inmost
recess. It is sheltered by Strorna island, but lies open
to the NE and the NNW, and has a beach of flat rocks
and shingles. Ord. Sur., sh. 116, 1878.
Gillyburn, a hamlet in Little Dunkeld parish, Perth-
shire, 4 mile NW of Murthly station.
Gilmanscleuch, a ravine, traversed by a burn, in
Kirkhope parish, Selkirkshire, descending from Black-
knowe Hill (1806 feet) 1J mile to the river Ettrick at a
point 3J miles NE of Tushielaw Inn.
Gilmerton, a mansion in Athelstaneford parish, Had-
dingtonshire, 4 miles NE of Haddington, and 3J ESE
of Drem Junction. It is the seat of Sir Alexander
Kinloch, tenth Bart, since 1686 (b. 1830; sue. 1879).
Ord. Sur., sh. 33, 1863.
Gilmerton, a modern, well-built village in Fowlis-
Wester parish, Perthshire, 2 miles NE of Crieff, under
which it has a post office.
Gilmerton, a village and a quoad sacra parish in
Liberton parish, Ediuburghshire. The village, the most
considerable one in the parish, by road is 4 miles SSE of
Edinburgh, and 3 WNW of Dalkeith; whilst its station
on the Loanhead and Glencorse branch of the North
British, j mile SSE, is 84 miles from the former city.
Standing high, 400 feet above sea-level, and command-
ing a fine view of Edinburgh, it comprises three streets,
and mainly consists of low one-story cottages. At it
are a post office, an inn, a police station, 2 schools, an
institute and reading-room, a children's convalescent
home (1881), and the quoad sacra church; whilst on its
SW outskirt stands Gilmertou House, an old-fashioned
white mansion, whose owner is Sir David Baird of NEW-
BYTH, Bart. Coal of prime quality has here been mined
id earlier, and down to t
ilnce 1627 and earlie
. to the opening of the
Dalkeith railway the carters or coal-bearers of Gilmer-
ton, who largely furnished Edinburgh with fuel, formed
a class by themselves. The humours of their annual
horse races, ' My Lord's, ' as they were called, are vividly
sketched by Moir in Mamie Wauch. Ironstone, too,
has been mined for a number of years. A little to the
NW of the village is a limestone quarry of vast extent,
the oldest perhaps in Scotland, at all events worked
from immemorial time. At first it was worked from
the surface, afterwards it was mined; and the produce
was brought up in successive epochs by women, by asses,
and by steam-power. Even with the aid of machinery
it ceased at length to repay the cost of working, and
since 1827 it has been almost entirely abandoned. Now,
like a huge deep trench, f mile long, it presents a
shelving declivity, overgrown with brushwood and wild
flowers, and sending off lateral caverns, whose roof of
solid rock is upborne by massive piers, left as props in
the process of mining. This vast colonnaded cavern,
instead of proceeding far inwards, where the rapid dip
of the stratum at an angle of 45 would have carried
the miner too far beneath the surface, advances obliquely
up the side of the ridge or hill, and thus one may wander
some way underground and yet never lose the light of
day. At the village itself, near the entrance from
Edinburgh, is a singular cave, hewn from the solid rock
during 1719-24 by a blacksmith named George Paterson.
Rooms, beds, and a table bearing aloft a punch-bowl,
all are nicely chiselled from the rock, which thus pro-
vided both dwelling-house and furniture. Several aper-
tures in the roof served for windows to let in the light
from above. The constructor of this strange subter-
ranean abode had it fitted up with a well, a washing-
house, and a forge ; and here, pursuing his craft, he
lived with his family till his death, about 1735. The
cave was for years a great object of curiosity, and even
yet has occasional visits paid to it. The quoad sacra,
parish is in the presbytery of Edinburgh and synod of
Lothian and Tweeddale; the stipend, from endowment
of 1860, is 185 with a manse. The church was built
as a chape] of ease in 1837, and enlarged by two aisles
GIRTHON
1882. The public and the Anderson female industrial
schools have an average attendance of about 220 and
100, and grants of over 220 and 80. For the female
industrial school an elegant schoolroom and teacher's
house were built in 1882 at the expense of the Misses
Anderson of Moredun. The Ravenscroft Convalescent
Home (1879) was, in 1886, transferred to new buildings
costing 2000. Pop. of village (1891) 1301 ; of q. s.
parish, 1571. Ord. Sur., ah. 32, 1857.
Gilmilnscroft, a mansion in Sorn parish, Ayrshire, 2J
miles E by S of Catrine. Its owner is Mr Farquhar,
the representative of an old Ayrshire family. Ord. Sur.,
sh. 14, 1863.
Gilmour's Linn, a beautiful cascade on Touch Burn,
in St Ninians parish, Stirlingshire.
Gilnockie, a station on the Langholm branch of the
North British railway, in Canonbie parish, Dumfries-
shire, 2| miles N by W of Riddings Junction, and 4J
SSE of Langholm. The Border peel- tower of Gilnockie
stood on a small promontory, washed on three sides by
the river Esk, so steep and rocky as to be scarcely ac-
cessible except on the land side, and defended there
by a deep ditch. It gave designation to Johnnie Arm-
strong, the Border freebooter of ballad fame, and puts
in a claim against Hollows Tower, a little higher up
the river, to have been his principal residence. Seem-
ingly it became ruinous soon after Armstrong's execu-
tion by James V. at Caerlanrig (1529); and, eventually
obliterated to make room for a bridge over the river, it
is now not represented by even the slightest vestige.
(See DURIE.) Distinct remains of a Roman station are
on a rising-ground a little N of the station. Ord. Sur.,
sh. 11, 1863.
Gilp, a burn and a sea loch on the mutual boundary
of Kilmichael-Glassary and South Knapdale parishes,
Argyllshire. The burn has a brief course south-west-
ward to the head of the loch. Loch Gilp descends from
the burn's mouth, 2J miles south-south-eastward, into
line with the great southward reach of Loch Fyne, and
broadens gradually from 3 furlongs to If mile. It sends
off, from its W side, the Crinau Canal; and is mostly so
shallow as not to be navigable for boats of any consider-
able burden at low tide. See LOCHGILPHEAD, ARDRISH-
AIG, and CRINAN CANAL. Ord. Sur., sh. 29, 1873.
Gilston, Kirkcudbrightshire. See GELSTON.
Girdle Ness, a promontory in Nigg parish, Kincar-
dineshire, flanking the S side of the mouth of the river
Dee, and terminating 2 miles ESE of Aberdeen. It
forms the eastern extremity of a spur of the Grampian
mountains ; and is crowned with a lighthouse, which,
built in 1833 and altered in 1890, shows one double
group flashing white light, giving two flashes in quick
n every twenty seconds, and visible at the di
of 19 nautical miles. Ord. Sur., sh. 77, 1873.
Girlsta. See TING
Girnigoe. See CASTLES GIRNIGOE and SINCLAIR.
Girnock Burn, a rivulet in Crathie and Braemar
parish, SW Aberdeenshire, rising at an altitude of 1800
feet, and running 6| miles north-north-eastward to the
river Dee, at a point 3 miles W by N of Ballater. Ord.
Sur., sh. 65, 1870.
Girthgate, an ancient bridle-road in Roxburghshire
and Edinburghshire, leading northward from Old Mel-
rose up the vale of Allen Water and over the moors to
the ancient hospice of Soutra. Traces of it still exist.
Ord. Sur., shs. 25, 33, 1865-63.
Girthhead, an estate, with a mansion, in Wamphray
parish, Duml'riesshire, on the left bank of the Annan,
1J mile S by W of Wamphray station.
Girthon, a parish of SW Kirkcudbrightshire, contain-
ing the greater part of the post-town of GATEHOUSE, and
traversed across its northern half by 4| miles of the
Dumfries and Portpatrick railway. It is bounded N
and NE by Kells, E by Balmaghie and Twynholm, SE
by Borgue, SW by Wigtown Bay, W by Anwoth and
Kirkmabreck, and N W by MinnigalT. Its utmost length,
from N to S, is 14J miles; its breadth varies between lg
and 6| miles; and its area is 34, 993 J acres, of which 943J
arc foreshore and 675J water. The river DEK winds
87
GIRVAN
6 miles east-south-eastward along all the boundary with
Kells, and from Girthon is fed by a dozen or so of burns;
but the drainage mainly belongs to the Water of FLEET,
which, with its principal head-stream, traces all the
western border, and from the interior receives Little
Water of Fleet and numberless lesser tributaries. Four
lakes, with their utmost length and breadth and their
altitude above sea-level, are Loch Whinyeou (4 J x 4J
furl.; 725 feet), on the Twynholm border; Loch SKER-
KOW (5J x 4 furl.; 425 feet), close to the Balmaghie
border; Loch Fleet (3x2 furl. ; 1120 feet), in the north-
western interior; and Loch GBENNOOH (2 miles x 3 furl. ;
680 feet), on the Minnigaif border. Three-fourths of
the land, comprising all the northern and most of the
central division, with a strip along the eastern border,
is bleak and heathy upland, with but few spots devoted
to tillage or capable of producing corn. The upland
consists rather of broad masses, irregularly intersected
by water-courses, than of continuous ridges or distinct
hills, and rarely rises to mountain altitude. Some of
the principal summits, from S to N, are Cairntook Hill
the m__.
(1000 feet), Castramont Hill (700), White Top of Cul-
reoch (1000), Craiglowrie (1079), Craigronald (1684),
Craigwhinnie (1367), Auchencloy Hill (684), Shaw Hill
(1255), and Round Fell (1319). The rest of the land,
comprising a strip along the middle and lower reaches
of the Fleet, is chiefly undulating, partly flat or gently
sloping, and all of it fertile, finely cultivated, and
highly embellished. Granite predominates throughout
the uplands, and metamorphic rocks, chiefly clay slate,
prevail in the lowlands. Slate has been quarried on
Culreoch farm; and a vein of copper ore, on the lands
of Enrick, was leased, and for some time worked, by a
Welsh company. The soil of the uplands is very poor;
that of the lowlands is naturally various, and has been
highly improved. About 4000 acres are regularly or
occasionally in tillage, and a fair proportion throughout
the lowlands is under wood. Three small ancient moats
are at Castramont, Enrick, and Bush Park; and at
Enrick stood an occasional residence of first the abbots
of Tongland, next the bishops of Galloway, which has
bequeathed to its site the name of Palace Yard. The
Rev. William Erskine, who figures among the worthies
in Wodrow's History of the Suferings of the Church of
Scotland, was minister of this parish, in which, at Auch-
encloy, Claverhouse shot four Covenanters, 18 Dee. 1684.
Besides the three Faeds, the celebrated artists, already
noticed under BAELAY MILL, natives of Girthon were
Captain James Murray Denniston (1770-1857), author of
Legends of Galloway, and Thomas Murray, LL.D.
(1792-1872), author of the Literary History of Galloway.
Mansions, both separately noticed, are Cally and Castra-
mont. Girthon is in the presbytery of Kirkcudbright
and synod of Galloway; the living is worth 185. The
old church, 2 miles SSE of Gatehouse, is a roofless ruin,
with a graveyard, the Broughton vault, and the grave
of ' Robert Lennox, who was shot to death by Grier of
Lagg, in the paroch of Tongland, for his adherence to
Scotland's Covenants, 1685/ A little farther S is the
site of the Mill of Girthon or the Lake, whose miller
was fined in 1300 by Edward I. of England. The present
parish church is noticed, with three other places of worship
and the schools, under Gatehouse. Pop. (1801) 1727,
(1831) 1751, (1861) 1702, (1871) 1586, (1881) 1415, (1891)
1354. Ord. Sur., shs. 5, 4, 8, 9, 1857-63.
Girvan, a police ljurgh and a parish in Carrick district,
Ayrshire. The town stands on the coast, at the mouth
of the Water of Girvan, 10 miles by sea E by S of Ailsa
Craif, whilst by the Maybole and Girvan section (1860)
of the Glasgow and South-Western railway it is 21J
miles SSW of Ayr and 62 SSW of Glasgow, and by the
Girvan and Portpatrick section (1876) 45 NNE of Port-
patrick. Its name originally was Invergarvan, in allu-
sion to Girvan Water, which was formerly called the
Garvan; and it seems to have been founded in the llth
century, but never till a recent period rose above the
condition of a village. Extending southward from the
river's mouth along the shore, and overlooked by hills
that culminate a mile inland at 827 feet above sea-level,
it enjoys a delightful site, picturesque surroundings, i
splendid view of the Firth of Clyde, with Ailsa Craig
exactly opposite, and is one of the most delightful and
health-giving resorts on the Ayrshire coast. Robert
Heron, in his Journey through the Western Counties of
Scotland in 1792, though liberal enough in praises gene-
rally, of Girvan wrote: 'The houses are huts more
miserable than those of Ballantrae. They are so low as
to seem, at the S end of the village, rather caves dug in
the earth than houses built upon it; though, on the NW
side and close upon the banks of the river, there are
some more decent and commodious houses.' The town
has been greatly extended and vastly improved since
Heron's day, and it now contains some very fair public
buildings and numerous commodious private houses.
The sanitary condition of the town is good, a sewage
scheme which cost about 5000 having been carried out
in 1892. So that, with a fine beach, a good golf course,
and many first-rate walks inland, the surrounding
country being most interesting, Girvan is rapidly rising
in public estimation as a watering-place. A steamer
(G. & S.W. Ry. Co.) goes round Ailsa Craig once a week
or oftener in summer. The parish church was rebuilt in
1883 at a cost of 4000. The South church, built as a
chapel of ease in 1839, and containing 900 sittings, was
raised in 1875 to quoad sacra status. Other places of
worship are a Free church (1844), a U.P. church (1870),
Wesleyan Methodists', St John's Episcopal church, and
the Roman Catholic .church of the Sacred Hearts (1860).
Girvan has a post office, with money order, savings
bank, insurance, and telegraph departments, branches
of the British Linen Co., Commercial, National, Royal,
and Union banks, several hotels, a town-hall, assembly
rooms, a Young Men's Christian Association, an agri-
cultural society, a lifeboat institution, a gas company,
a weekly market on Mondays, and fairs on the first Mon-
day of April and October. The M'Kechnie Institute
was the gift of the late Mr Thomas M 'Kechnie. It con-
sists of library, ladies' and gentlemen's reading rooms,
smoking and committee rooms, and was completed in
1888 at a cost of about 3000. The interest of 1000
left by the late Mrs Crawford of Ardmillan is divided
annually among poor householders not receiving parish
relief, except 12 to the precentor for teaching ten chil-
dren sacred music. Hand-loom weaving is still carried
on, though not as in 1838, when the number of looms,
including a few in the neighbourhood, was no less than
1800, the fabrics woven being a variety of cotton and
woollen goods for the manufacturers of Glasgow and
Paisley. A harbour, at the mouth of Girvan Water,
was formerly capable of admitting only vessels of small
burden, but underwent great improvement in 1869-70;
while further and more extensive improvements, under-
taken by the harbour commissioners in 1881, and com-
pleted in 1883, at an expense of about 1200, included
the carrying out of a pier from the W side, and of a
breakwater from the NE side of the old harbour. As
now completed, the harbour resembles that of Eyemouth,
and from it large quantities of grain of various kinds are
annually exported, chiefly to Glasgow and Liverpool.
The trade in coal and lime is important, the mines and
quarries for these being numerous in the neighbourhood.
The principal trade of the place, however, is the herring
fishing, which occurs twice a year, beginning in Decem-
ber and May. A steamer plies backwards and forwards
to Glasgow once a week. The wooden bridge across the
river has been replaced by an iron carriage bridge built
by Sir William Arrol. A burgh of barony under the
superiority of the proprietor of BAEGANY, Girvan re-
ceived its first chapter in 1696, but did not enjoy burgh
privileges till 1785. By the Burgh Police (Scotland)
Act of 1892 it is governed by a provost, 2 bailies, and
6 commissioners, whilst the harbour is managed by 8
oommissioners. Sheriff small debt courts are held three
times a year; and a justice of peace small debt court sits
on the first Monday of every month. Municipal con-
stituency (1882) 310, (1895) 1071). Pop. (1871) 4791,
(1881) 4505, (1891) 4081. Houses (1891) inhabited 979,
vacant 108, building 11.
GIRVAN, WATER OF
The parish of G
IE '
the Firth of Clyde.
unded N by Kirkoswald,
NE by Dailly, SE by Barr, S by Colmonell, and W by
the Firth of Clyde. Its utmost length, from N to S, is
7J miles; its breadth, from E to W, varies between Ig
and 5J miles; and its area is 14.954 acres, of which 322
are foreshore and 52 water. The coast-line, 8J miles
long, is closely skirted by the road to Ballantrae, and,
offering few and inconsiderable curvatures, over all but
the southernmost 2J miles is low, with a boulder-strewn
beach, covered thickly with seaweed. From Ardwell
southwards to Pinhain it is bold and rocky, the road
.itself attaining 100 feet above sea-level at the southern
extremity of the parish, and the surface thence rising
rapidly inland to 973 feet at Grey Hill and 734 at Pin-
hain Hill. The WATER OF GIRVAN winds 1 mile
south-south-westward along the Dailly border, then 3J
miles west-south-westward through the interior to its
mouth at Girvan harbour; and, at the SE corner of the
parish, the STINCHAR traces 1 mile of the boundary
with Barr and Colmonell, and from Girvan is fed by
the Water of Assel, running 5 miles south-westward,
southward, and south-eastward. The surface generally
is hilly, from N to S attaining 275 feet above sea-level
near Boghead, 639 near Brae, 970 at Saugh Hill, 923 at
Trower Hill, 883 near Laggan, 701 at Byne Hill, and
971 at Kirkland Hill, which culminates right on the
Barr border. The tract to the N of the town is flat in
places, but on the whole presents an undulating appear-
ance, and is fertile, well cultivated, and finely embel-
lished. The southern district is to a large extent pas-
toral. Sandstone conglomerate is the predominant
rock, and extends for a considerable distance along the
beach; whinstone, both grey and blue, is sufficiently
plentiful and accessible to furnish material for all the
local buildings; and limestone has been worked pretty
largely in the E. Coal, though abundant in Dailly,
does not seem to pass within the limits of Girvan; but
excellent copper ore has been found, and is supposed to
exist in considerable quantity ; whilst gypsum, shell
marl, and coarse potter's clay are also found; and the
last has long been extensively used for tile-work. The
soil of the arable lands has much diversity of character,
but is mostly a dry light mould on a sandy or gravelly
bottom. Vestiges' of five ancient camps occur near the
sea, one of them engirt by two concentric ditches. Of
several pre-Reformation chapels, the chief were Kirk-
dominre in the SE and Cbapel-Donan in the N. St
Cuthbert's itself, the ancient parish church, was held
by Crossraguel Abbey; its graveyard in 1611 was the
scene of a singular episode. A murdered retainer of
Kennedy of Colzean had been buried here, when his
master the laird was moved by a dream to have him
disinterred, that all who lived near might come and
touch the corpse. All did so but John Mure of Auchen-
drane and his son, whom none suspected, till young
Mary Mure, his daughter, perceiving the crowd, went
in among them. When she came near the dead body,
the blood started from it, whereon her father was appre-
hended and put to the torture. ARDMILLAN is the
chief mansion. Girvan is in the presbytery of Ayr and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr; the living is worth 409.
Four public schools the Burgh, Assel, Doune, and
Girvan and a Roman Catholic school, with respective
accommodation for 838, 50, 118, 301, and 181 children,
have an average attendance of about 470, 50, 90, 240,
and 100, and grants amounting to over 520, 64,
78, 250, and 100. Pop. (1801) 2260, (1831) 6430,
(1861) 7053, (1871) 5685, (1881) 5480, (1891) 4906,
of whom 2601 were in Girvan ecclesiastical parish, and
2305 in that of South Church. Ord. S'ir., shs. 7, 8,
1863.
Girvan, Water of, a stream of Carrick, Ayrshire,
rising in the E of Barr parish, at an altitude of 2050
feet above sea-level, 5J miles WSW of the head of Loch
Doon. Thence it winds 17J miles north-north-westward
to the neighbourhood of Kirkmichael village, and thence
again 18 miles south-westward, till it falls into the
Firth of Clyde at Girvan town, only 14 miles WNW of
its source as the crow flies. It traverses or skirts the
GLADBOUSE WATER
parishes of Straiten, Kirkmichael, Maybole, Kirkoswald,
Dailly, and Girvan; and in the first of these it flows
through five lakes, the largest of which are Lochs Lure
and BRADAN. The scenery hereabouts is bleak and
cheerless, but lower down the Gil-van's course lies through
the fine demesnes of Blairquhan, Dalquharran, Bargany,
and Killochan boyish haunts these of the great land-
scape painter, Thomson of Duddingston. It is closely
followed by the Maybo'e and Girvan railway, from a
point 1J mile SW of Crossbill village; and it contains
good store of trout, with occasional salmon. Ord. Sur.,
shs. 8, 14, 8, 7, 1863.
Girvan and Portpatrick Railway, The, extends from
Girvan to a junction with the Castle-Douglas and Port-
patrick railway at East Challoch, near Dunragit, in the
parish of Glenluce and county of Wigtown. In 1846
there was projected the Glasgow and Belfast Union rail-
way, a line proposed to leave Ayr for Girvan and pro-
ceed southwards into Wigtownshire. The powers then
obtained only covered the line to Maybole and Girvan,
although the extended line was in contemplation. The
project was allowed to lapse, and the line to Maybole
was not opened till 1856 (under an act obtained in
1854); in 1860, under a later act, the line was opened
to Girvan. In 1865 the Girvan and Portpatrick rail-
way was sanctioned, but the matter lay in abeyance;
and in 1870 the time for completing the line was ex-
tended, a further extension of time being obtained in
1873. The first sod was cut in Sept. 1871, and in Oct.
1876 the railway was opened for traffic. The line is 30J
miles long, with a single line of rails. Crossing Girvan
Water, it ascends a steep gradient for 4 miles, passes
through a tunnel of 500 yards, and crosses the Stinchar
and the Dhuisk on important bridges. After passing
Barrhill it follows the valley of Cross Water of Luce,
and crosses the Luce by a viaduct of ten arches. In the
course of the construction of the line, the works were
seriously damaged by floods; and, from an estimated
cost of 330,000, the capital expenditure advanced to
a sum of 532,000. The railway was at first worked by
the Glasgow and South-Western Railway Company
under an experimental agreement, and afterwards on
stated terms. The railway, however, having fallen into
financial difficulties, a judicial factor was appointed by
the Court of Session in 1881 ; and the line, which for a
time was used as a rapid through route between Glasgow
and Stranraer, was, after being shut for a brief period,
resumed for the accommodation of local traffic. In
1882, under a new act, powers were obtained to recon-
struct the company and to develop its capabilities as a
through line. Again, in 1887, another act was obtained
to incorporate a company for maintaining and working
this line, and for other purposes. Finally, in 1892, it
became the property of the Glasgow and South-Western
Railway Co. The stations on the line are Girvan, Pin-
more, Pinwherry, Barrhill, Glenwhilly, and New Luce.
Gizzen Briggs. See GEYZEN BRIGGS.
Glack, a mansion in Daviot parish, Aberdeenshire,
4J miles W by N of Old Meldrum. Erected in 1875 at
cost of 10,000, it is a Scottish Baronial edifice of
block granite, with a tower 80 feet high. Ord. Sur.,
sh. 86, 1876.
Glack, a defile and pass between Newtyle and Hatton
hills in Newtyle parish, Forfarshire, giving
nd Strathdighty.
cation between Strath
Glackharnis, a deep defile in Aberdour parish, Banff-
shire, between Ben Rinnes and the Conval mountains.
It has an impressive character from at once its great
length, its uniform bottom breadth, and the regular
iclivity and vast height of its mountain flanks.
Glackingdaline, a small bay and a ruined Scandinavian
castle in Ulva island, Argyllshire. The castle, crowning
a high steep rocky islet, had a causeway leading from
the rock to the island at low tide, and still is repre-
sented by walls and rubbish of its own structure and
by remains of the causeway.
Gladhouse Reservoir, on the course of the principal
ad-stream of the South ESK river in TEMPLE parish,
Edinburghshire, was opened in 1879.
GtADNEt
Gladney or Glaidney, a village in the southern ex-
tremity of Cupar parish, Fife, adjacent to Ceres. Pop.
(1861) 148, (1871) 229, (1881) 115, (1891) 118.
Gladsmuir, a village and a parish in the W of Had-
dingtonshire. The village stands 355 feet above sea-
level, near the eastern verge of the parish, 2J miles
SSE of Longniddry station, on the Haddingtou branch
of the North British railway, 4 W by S of Haddington,
and 3J E of Tranent, with a post office under Macmerry.
Crowning the ridge between Haddington and Tranent,
it commands a superb panoramic view of the Lothians,
the Firth of Forth, and the southern shore of Fife.
The parish, constituted in 1692 out of portions of
Haddington, Tranent, and Aberlady, contains also the
villages of Longniddry, Samuelston, and Penaton. It
is bounded NW by the Firth of Forth, N by Aberlady,
E by Haddington, S by Pencaitland, and W by Tranent.
Its utmost length, from N to S, is 4J miles; its utmost
breadth is 4 miles; and its area is 7165J acres, of which
120j are foreshore. A small burn, running to the
Firth, traces much of the Aberlady border; another
traces for If mile the boundary with Tranent; two
others rise in and traverse the interior; and the river
TYNE winds 1| mile east-north-eastward along the Had-
dington border. The coast-line, 1 mile long, is low but
rocky; and from it the surface rises gently to 371 feet
at Penston and 400 at the south-western corner of the
parish, whilst sinking again south-eastward to 190 feet
along the Tyne. So much of the area was in a marshy
condition as to look almost like a continuous fen, but
now has been so thoroughly reclaimed as to be every-
where in a state of high cultivation. The ridgy tract,
too, was for ages an open moor, but that likewise has
been well reclaimed. The rocks belong chiefly to the
Carboniferous formation, but are intersected, from E to
W, by a remarkable trap dyke, which has been largely
quarried for road metal, and for building has abundant
sandstone. Limestone and ironstone have been worked;
and coal abounds of excellent quality, occurring in some
places in seams from 4 to 5 feet thick. It seems, in the
vicinity of Penston, to have been mined for upwards of
five centuries. Fireclay also is plentiful. The soil is
sandy on the immediate seaboard, a fertile loam towards
Longniddry, clayey in the middle tract, and loamy
along the Tyne. About 200 acres are under wood;
nearly 1200 arc in pasture; and all the rest of the land
is either regularly or occasionally in tillage. The man-
sion of the Douglases of Longniddry, who acted a dis-
tinguished part in the Reformation, and invited John
Knox to their home when he was driven away from St
Andrews, is now represented by only a low round mound.
A ruined chapel, called John Knox's Kirk because the
great Reformer sometimes preached in it, stands a little
E of Longniddry village. A church was built, in 1650,
at Thrieplaw, near the boundary with Pencaitland, but,
on the constituting of the parish, fell into disuse, and
has utterly disappeared. William Robertson, D.D.
(1721-93), who became Principal of Edinburgh Univer-
sity, was minister of Gladsmuir from 1743 to 1758, and
wrote here the greater part of his History of Scotland;
and George Heriot (1563-1624), the founder of the
hospital that bears his name in Edinburgh, was the son
of a native of Gladsmuir, and himself has been claimed
as a native. Under PRESTONPANS is noticed the battle,
sometimes called of Gladsmuir. ELVINGSTON is the
chief mansion. Gladsmuir is in the presbytery of Had-
dington and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale; the
living is worth 300. The parish church, at the vil-
lage, a handsome edifice of 1850, and successor to one
of 1695, was destroyed by fire in 1886, and afterwards
rebuilt. Four schools Gladsmuir, Longniddry, Mac-
merry, and Samuelston with respective accommoda-
tion for 113, 144, 140, and 61 children, have an average
attendance of about 50, 90, 100, and 30, and grants
of over 40, 80, 70, and 35. Valuation (1879)
18 648, 6s., (1883) 16,250, 18s., (1892) 13,044,
19s. 5d. Pop. (1801) 1460, (1831) 1658, (1861) 1915,
(1871) 1863, (1881) 1747, (1891) 1604. Ord. Sur., ah.
33, 1863.
90
Glaidney. See GLADNEY.
Glaissean or Glashan, a lake in Kilmichael-Glassary
parish, Argyllshire. Lying 340 feet above sea-level, it
has an utmost length and breadth of 1J and i mile,
abounds in smallish trout, lies on moorland, and sends
off a stream 1J mile south-south-eastward to Loch Awe
at Lochgair. Ord. Sur. sh. 37, 1876.
Glaitness. See KIRKWALL.
Glamaig or Ben Glamalg, a conical mountain (2670
feet) in Portree parish, Isle of Skye, Inverness-shire, on
the S side of Loch Sligachan, in the immediate neigh-
bourhood of the Cuchullin Mountains. It has round
bronze-hued shoulders; its sides are channelled by innu-
merable water-courses; great heaps of shingle lie scat-
tered around its base; and its summit is washed bare of
soil and vegetation.
Glamis, a village and a parish of SW Forfarshire.
The village stands, 300 feet above sea-level, on the left
bank of Glamis Burn, 11 miles N of Dundee, and 1J mile
SSE of Glamis station on the Scottish Midland section
of the Caledonian, this station being 5i miles WSW of
Forfar and 27 NE of Perth. It serves as a small centre
of traffic for a tract of country around it, and has a post,
money order, and telegraph office, a branch of the Royal
Bank, 2 sawmills, a school, Established and Episcopal
churches, a masonic hall, a hotel, and fairs on the first
Wednesday of April and May, the Wednesdays after 26
May and 22 November, and the Saturday of October
before Kirriemuir.
The parish contains also the villages or hamlets of
Charleston, Newton, Milton, Thornton, Grasshouses,
and Arniefoul. It is bounded N by Kirriemuir, NE
by Forfar, E by Kinnettles and Inverarity, SE by
Tealing, SW by Auchterhouse and Newtyle, W by
Eassie and Nevay, and NW by Airlie. Its utmost
length, from N to S, is 6| miles; its breadth varies
between 2 and 5J miles; and its area is 14,483J acres,
of which 136J are water. From the Loch of FORFAR
(9x2 furl.; 171 feet) in the NE corner of the parish,
DEAN Water flows 5J miles west -south -westward,
chiefly through the northern interior, but 2 miles along
the Kinnettles border, which also is traced for 2J
miles north-westward by ARITY or Kerbit Water, from
just above Douglastown to its mouth. Glamis Burn,
another of the Dean Water's affluents, rises close to the
southern border at 910 feet above sea-level, and thence
winds 6jj miles north-by-eastward through the interior
along Glen Ogilvie; just above Glamis village it breaks
through a ridge of high ground, and forms a fine cas-
cade. And EASSIE Burn curves 2| miles northward
through the south-western extremity, then 1J mile
along the boundary with Eassie. (See DENOON.)
Sinking along Dean Water to 160 feet above sea-level,
the surface thence rises east-north-eastward to 224 feet
at Broom Hill and 232 near Drumglay, southward to
664 at Hunters Hill, 700 at West Cram Hill, 925 at
Berry Hillock, 754 near Kilmundie, 1115 at Carlunie
Hill, 1116 at Ark Hill, 1242 at Callow Hill, and
1493 at Craigowl. The northern district, cut off
by Dean Water, presents a gently undulating surface,
and lies entirely within Strathmore, to which be-
longs also the northern portion of the central district.
The rest of Glamis, lying among the Sidlaws, com-
prises three parallel hill-ranges, that extend from
NNE to SSW, and enclose the two hill-vales of Glen
Ogilvie and Deuoon. The northern district, as forming
part of Strathmore, is all an unbroken belt of Old Red
sandstone; in the southern or Sidlaw portion, the rocks
are mainly eruptive. Both trap and sandstone have
been largely quarried; and some veins of lead ore, in the
eastern vicinity of Glamis village, were worked for a
short time in the latter part of the 18th century. Traces
of carbonate of copper occur in the trap rocks of the
hills; and porphyry, jasper, and Lydian stone have been
found. The soil in Strathmore is generally a deep,
sound, reddish loam, heavier and richer on the lower
slopes than in the bottom of the valley; on the Sidlaws,
is chiefly of a moorish character, covered with heath or
swampy. If Skene is right in maintaining that King
GLAMIS CASTLE
Malcolm was not murdered, the following is a curi-
ous instance of misapplied ingenuity. Before the
manse door stands a sculptured obelisk' King Mal-
colm's Gravestone ' 'erected, as is generally supposed,
in memory of the murder of Malcolm II. On one
side of it is an elaborately carved Cross, and near
the base are the figures of two men, who, by their
attitude, seem to be forming the bloody conspiracy.
A lion and a centaur, on the upper part, repre-
sent the barbarity of the crime. On the reverse,
fishes of several sorts appear, a symbol of Loch
Forfar, in which, by missing their way, the as-
lassins were drowned. On Hunters Hill is another
small obelisk or stone, on which are delineated vari-
ous symbolical characters similar to those of the
larger obelisk, and supposed to be intended as represen-
tations of the same facts. At a mile's distance from the
village of Glamis, near a place called Gossans, is a third
obelisk, vulgarly styled St Orland's Stone, still more
curious than the others, and possibly akin to them in
object. On one side is a cross rudely flowered and
chequered ; on the other, four men on horseback appear
to be pursuing their way with the utmost possible
vhile the horse of one of them is trampling under foot
part of the
figure of an animal somewhat like a dragon. Though
wild boar ; and on the lower
the stone is the
no probable decipherment has been made of these sym
bols, they have been conjectured to represent the officers
of justice in pursuit of Malcolm's murderers.' GLAMIS
CASTLE is the chief feature of the parish ; and the Earl
of Strathmore is sole proprietor. Glamis is in the
presbytery of Forfar and synod of Angus and Mearns ;
the living is worth 307. The parish church, at the
village, was built in 1792. Glamis public and Glen
Ogilvie or Milton public schools, with respective accom-
modation lor 200 and 68 children, have an average at-
tendance of about 130 and 50, and grants of nearly 120
and 50. Valuation (1857) 11,026, (1882) 13,934,
15s., (1892) 11,118, 19s., plus 2206 for railway and
water-works. Pop. (1801) 1931, (1831) 1999, (1851)
2152, (1871) 1813, (1881) 1631, (1891) 1464. Ord. Sur.,
shs. 56, 57, 48, 1870-68.
Glamis Castle, the seat of the Earl of Strathmore, in
Glamis parish, SW Forfarshire, near the left bank of Dean
Water, 7 furlongs N by E of the village. Ascribed by
tradition to the 10th or llth century, it mainly consists
in its present form of reconstructions and additions of
the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries, and is a stately pile
in the style of Chan tilly and other great FT ench chateaux,
such as the Chevalier, who stayed here in January 1716,
declared he had not seen matched upon the Continent.
The central part is a great square tower, whose top is
gained by a flight of 143 steps, and from which project
three wings ; and the whole exterior is profusely adorned
with sculptures, corbellings, battlements, pinnacles,
pepper-box turrets, and the like. In front stands a
curious old sun-dial, presenting an extraordinary num-
ber of faces to the sun. Within, the most interesting
features are the great hall, bearing date 1621, and con-
taining portraits of Charles II., James VII., Claverhouse,
Lauderdale, etc. ; a quaint little Jacobean chapel, with
paintings by De Witt ; and ' Sir Walter Scott's Bed-
room,' of which, in Demonology and Witchcraft, Sir
Walter writes : ' I was only 19 or 20 years old when I
happened to pass a night in this magnificent baronial
castle. The hoary old pile contains much in its appear-
ance, and in the traditions connected with it, impressive
to the imagination. It was the scene of the murder of
a Scottish king of great antiquity, not indeed the gra-
cious Duncan, with whom the name naturally associates
it, but Malcolm II.* It contains also a curious monu-
,
died a natural death. Thus the contemporary chronicler, Marianus
"
an se, n , was urne on
rgh on a trumped-up charge of
on of James V. by poison. Her
ord, was involved in the charge,
GLASBHEINN
ment of the peril of feudal times, being a secret chamber,
the entrance of which, by the law or custom of the
family, must only be known to three persons at once,
viz., the Earl of Strathmore, his heir-apparent, and any
third person whom they may take into their confidence.
The extreme antiquity of the building is vouched by
the immense thickness of the walls and the wild and
straggling arrangement of the accommodation within
doors. I was conducted to my apartment in a distant
corner of the building ; and I must own that, as I heard
door after door shut, after my conductor had retired, I
began to consider myself too far from the living, and
somewhat too near the dead. We had passed through
what is called the " King's Room," a vaulted apartment
garnished with stags' antlers and similar trophies of the
chase, and said by tradition to be the spot of Malcolm's
murder, and I had an idea of the vicinity of the castle
chapel. In spite of the truth of history, the whole
night scene in Macbeth's castle rushed at once upon my
mind, and struck my imagination more forcibly than
even when I have seen its terrors represented by the
late John Kemble and his inimitable sister.' The
thanage of Glarais possesses a fictitious interest from its
imaginary connection with Macbeth ; in history we do
not hear of it till 1264 (Skcne's Celtic Scotland, iii. 266,
1880). It seems to have been held by the Crown from
the War of Independence till 1372, when Robert II.
erected it into a barony, and granted it to John Lyon,
whose grandson Sir Patrick was created a peer by the
title of Lord Glamis in 1445. John, sixth Lord, who
died in 1528, had wedded Janet Douglas, a sister of the
banished Earl of Angus ; and she, in 1537, was burned on
the Castlehill of Edinburgh
conspiring the destruction of
son, the young seventh Lord, '
and did not recover title and estates till 1543. Joh'n,
eighth Lord, chancellor of Scotland, was shot at Stirling
in a chance fray between his followers and the Earl of
Crawford's (1578) ; his brother, the Master of Glamis,
was a chief conspirator in the Raid of Ruthven (1582).
Patrick, ninth Lord, was created Earl of Kinghorne in
1606 ; and in 1677 Patrick, third Earl, obtained a
charter providing that himself and his heirs should in
all future ages be styled Earls of Strathmore and King-
horne, Viscounts Lyon, Barons Glamis, etc. This
Patrick retired from public life at the Revolution (1688),
and 'spent,' one is told, 'the last six years of his life
in improving his estates and in repairing and modern-
ising his castle of Glamis under the direction of the
celebrated Inigo Jones,' who died, however, in 1652.
John, fourth Earl, was father of 'four pretty boys,'
who all in turn succeeded to the earldom John, killed
at Sheriffmuir, 1715; Charles, killed in a brawl at
Forfar, 1728; James, died 1735; and Thomas, died
1753. John, ninth Earl (1737-76), married Mary
Eleanor Bowes, heiress of 1,040,000 ; and the present
and thirteenth Earl, Claude Bowes Lyon (b. 1824 ; sue.
1865), is their grandson. He is twenty-first Lord
Glamis, but thirteenth only in descent from Patrick,
first holder of that title. The Glamis estate 22,850
acres comprises 16,850 acres of arable land, 4000 of
natural pasture, and 2000 under wood. Since 1860, at
an outlay of over 43,000, it has undergone great im-
provements in the way of building, draining, fencing,
reclaiming, and road-making. Lord Strathmore's Clydes-
dale stud, dating from 1869, may also be noticed. See
Andrew Jervise's Glamis, Its History and Antiquities
(Edinb. 1861); James C. Guthrie's Vale of Strathmore
(Edinb. 1875); and pp. 91-94 of Trans. Highl. and An.
Soc. (1881).
Glanasnar, a pastoral islet of Southend parish, Argyll-
shire, adjacent to the NE side of Sanda island.
Glanderston, an estate, with a mansion of 1697, a
farmhouse now, in Neilston parish, Renfrewshire, 2
miles S of Barrhead. It was given in 1507 by the
first Earl of Lennox to his brother John Stewart, and,
going by marriage to Mure of Caldwell, afterwards
passed to other proprietors.
Glasbheinn. See GLASVEIN.
91
QLASCLTTNE
Glaschme, an ancient baronial fortalioe on the E
border of Kinloch parish, Perthshire, crowning the steep
bank of a ravine at the boundary with Blairgowrie
parish. The stronghold of the powerful family of Blair,
it was once a place of considerable strength, both
natural and artificial, and is now represented by some-
what imposing ruins.
Glasford. See GLASSFOKD.
Glasgow, the commercial and manufacturing capital
of Scotland, was formerly for the most part in the lower
ward of Lanarkshire and to a small extent in Renfrew-
shire. By the Orders of the Boundary Commissioners
appointed under the Local Government (Scotland) Act
1889, it was placed wholly within Lanarkshire; and in
1893 the entire area within the municipal boundary
was constituted a county of a city, with independent
jurisdiction. As regards population it is, when taken
with its suburbs, the second city of the British
islands. It stands on both banks of the river Clyde,
14 miles from its mouth at Dumbarton; but the larger
portion of the city is on the N side of the river; latitude
55" 51' 32" N, and longitude 4 17' 54" W. Its distance
as the crow flies from John o' Groat's House is 197 miles,
and from London 348. It is NW by N of London and
Carlisle, SW of Aberdeen, Perth, and Stirling, SW by
W of Dundee, W by S of Edinburgh, and N by W of
Dumfries. By road it is 42J miles from Edinburgh, 23
from Greenock, 34 from Ayr, 79 from Dumfries, and 396
from London; while by railway its distance is 7 miles
from Paisley, 21 from Falkirk, 23 from Greenock, 29
from Stirling, 24 from Kilmarnock, 40 from Ayr, 47J
from Edinburgh, 63^ from Perth, 104J from Berwick -
on-Tweed, 105 from Carlisle, 152 from Aberdeen, 207
from Inverness, 401J from London by the West Coast
route, 423 by the Midland, and 448J by the East Coast
Site. At no very remote time in the geological his-
tory of the country, but long before the historic period,
the lower part of the valley of the Clyde formed the
bottom of an estuary. This estuary opened to the sea
by a narrow strait near Erskine, and embraced Loch
Lomond and the valleys about on the one hand, while
on the other it extended as far as Johnstone and Paisley.
Narrowing at Ibrox and Pollokshields, it again widened
out, and, sweeping round by the Cathkin and Cathcart
Hills, formed a wide bay where Glasgow Green and
Bridgeton now are. The mouth of the river was then
probably about Bothwell or Rutherglen. That the
estuary was marine the list of shells found in the de-
posits in the valley abundantly proves. That the levels
of the land were much the same as at present during the
Roman occupation is shown by the termination of the
Roman Wall; but that prior to this, and yet subsequent
to the first appearance of man in Clydesdale, there must
have been an upheaval of the land is shown by relics
dug up on the present site of Glasgow. Among other
remains a number of canoes have been found, some of
them 300 feet distant from the modern bed of the river
and 19 feet below the present surface. In the eighty
years prior to 1855, no less than seventeen canoes were
dug out of the silt one in 1780 in digging the founda-
tions of St Enoch's Church, and another later near the
Cross. In 1824 one was found at Stoekwell Street, and
another in the Drygate behind the prison. Twelve
were found on the lands of Springfield, on the S side,
and two at Clydehaugh in 1852. Of all these, one was
in a vertical position, with the prow up, as if it had
sunk in a storm; while another was bottom up, as if it
had been capsized. Since 1855 other three at least have
been found. All this points to a considerable rise within
the human period, and accounts for the traces of ancient
terraces that are to be seen along some portions of the
higher grounds, as well as for the nature of the site of
the lower part of the city, which, especially towards
the E and S, is very flat, as it also is on the N along
the side of the river. Nowhere in these districts is it
more than a few feet above the level of spring tides.
The ground on the N side of the river beyond the flat
strip and to the W is variable and undulating, there
92
being a number of elliptical ridges mostly with their
longer axes parallel to the course of the river, but in
the W trending somewhat more in a N and S direction.
They rise with considerable rapidity to heights of from
100 to 250 feet, the principal being Blythswood Hill
(135), Woodlands Hill (153), Hillhead (157), Garnet
Hill (176), the Observatory site (179), the Necropolis
(225), and Garngad Hill (252). The city is intersected
and divided into two unequal portions by the river Clyde,
which has within it a course of about 6 miles, following
the windings from the E at Dalmarnock Bridge to the
mouth of the Kelvin on the W. The Molendinar Burn
swept round the NE, passed between the Cathedral and
the Necropolis in a deep ravine, and afterwards crossed
the low ground to the Clyde; but this has now become
an underground sewer, though the ravine still par-
tially remains. The river Kelvin approaches from the
NW through a picturesque and well-wooded dell, skirts
the base of the height on which the Botanic Gardens
are laid out, and, sweeping to the southward, passes
through the West End or Kelvingrove Park, between the
high grounds to the E of the Park and Gilmore Hill
on the W, and then, bending to the SW, enters the
Clyde opposite Govan at Govan ferry. Glasgow has
about its site none of the picturesque features that give
such beauty and well-marked character to Edinburgh.
The features of the views within all the low parts of the
city, and even in the suburbs, are mainly architectural,
and always distinctly modified by the smoke and turmoil
of a great seat of commerce and manufacture. From a
few of the higher spots particularly from Sighthill
Cemetery, Garngad Hill, the Necropolis, Blythswood
Hill, Garnet Hill, the upper part of Kelvingrove Park,
and Gilmore Hill in front of the new University build-
ings there are, however, in clear states of the atmo-
sphere, views of considerable picturesqueness, the fore-
ground of the city, with its streets and buildings and
bustle, being backed by glimpses of the country and
shut in by distant hills.
Extent. The exact extent of Glasgow is somewhat
difficult to define, as the districts to be embraced by the
name are variously understood. The compact central
portion of it measures about 2J miles by 1J; the area
covered by buildings, but exclusive of detached parts
and straggling outskirts, measures about 4 miles from
E to W and about 3 from N to S. The area compre-
hended in the returns of population includes, besides the
separate burghs of Partick, Govan, and Kinning Park,
the detached suburbs of Tollcross and Shettleston, and
comprises 21,336j acres. It measures about 9J miles
from E to W, and about 5J from N to S. The royal
burgh lies all on the right bank of the Clyde, and com-
prises 988J acres. The old royalty also lies all on the
right bank of the river, and includes the royal burgh as
well as very considerable suburbs and some tracts of
open country; it comprises 2336J acres. Prior to 1872
the municipal and parliamentary burgh excluded much
of the old royalty, but included tracts beyond it both
N and S of the Clyde, and comprised 5034J acres; but
by an Act of Parliament passed in that year the bound-
aries were largely extended on the N and W, so that
the total area within the line was increased to 6111
acres, the portions added including the Alexandra Park
and parts of St Rollox, Sighthill, Springburn, Cowlairs,
Keppoch Hill, and the Kelvingrove Park, with the lands
of Gilmore Hill belonging to the University, and the
Western Infirmary. In 1891 six of the suburban burghs
which had for nearly twenty years formed a tightly-
uncomfortable girdle round the parent city, consented
to annexation, and by an Act of Parliament to which
the royal assent was given on 21 July, and which came
>n 1 Nov. in the year mentioned, a large
tension of the municipality was sanctioned, by which
> operatic
not only were the burghs of Govanhill, Crossbill, East
and West Pollokshields, Hillhead, and Maryhill (1998
acres) added to the city, but also the residential districts
of Polmadie, Mount Florida, Langside, Crossmyloof,
Shawlands, Strathbungo, Bellahouston, Kelvinside,
Possilpark, Springburn (including Baruhill), and West-
GLASGOW
thorn (3752 acres), so that the area of what may be
termed 'Greater Glasgow' now covers 11,861 acres.
The burghs of Kinning Park, Govau, and Partick resisted
annexation and still remain independent; but were these
and the landward part of the parish of Govan to be
added to the city, to which they naturally belong, the
acreage would be increased to 15,659. The extension
involved an addition of 9 to the 16 former wards of the
city, the seventeenth being formed by Govanhill, the
eighteenth by Polmadie and Crosshill, the nineteenth
by Langside, Mount Florida, and Shawlands; the twen-
tieth by Strathbungo, the twenty-first by Pollokshields
and Bellahouston, the twenty-second by Hillhead, the
twenty-third by Kelvinside, the twenty-fourth by Mary-
hill, Gilshochill, and Wyndford; and the twenty-fifth
by the NE part of Springburn, Possilpark, Blochairn,
Broomfield, Barnhill, and Balgray. The wards of the
city
nged and reconstituted in 1896, and an
act of Parliament was passed to bring the parliamentary
boundaries into conformity with the new arrangement.
The length of the municipality from Shettleston Shed-
dings on the E to beyond Jordanhill station on the W,
and from the Kelvin near Sandyflat on the N to beyond
Langside on the S is about 6 miles in each case, and the
total length of the boundary line is over 24 miles.
Appearance. A stranger entering Glasgow by any
of the ordinary routes is not likely to be favourably im-
pressed by it. By the Edinburgh and Glasgow branch
of the North British system and by the northern branch
of the Caledonian, he enters through dark and smoky
tunnels. By the Bathgate branch of the North British,
he enters through the dingy region of Parkhead, with
its rolling-mill and forge; while, by the southern
branch of the Caledonian, the approach lies through
murky mineral fields, amid the blaze of iron-works. By
the Glasgow and South-Wcstern line, he approaches
amid houses of an inferior description. If the visitor
come by road excepting the approach by the Great
Western Road it is much the same; while if he come
by the river, long ere reaching the city he has left
the beauties of the Clyde behind, and finds himself
moving slowly along a river which is not at all pure
or sweet, amid a motley array of shipbuilding yards
and engineering establishments resounding to the
he reach the centre of the city than he finds a vast
difference in the character of the streets and in the sur-
roundings, and sees on every hand buildings displaying
both beauty and taste. Few exterior views of the city
or of parts of it are interesting; and from the fact that
no exterior view of it as a whole can be got, it is diffi-
cult to carry away from Glasgow any general impression.
The best of the exterior views is from the Cathkin Hills,
and they are too far off (3 miles) to allow of a distinct
idea.
Lines of Street and Districts. The city had its origin
on the high ground adjoining the western side of the
Molendinar Burn ravine, nearly a mile N of the Clyde;
and as any extension immediately eastward was imprac-
ticable in consequence of the opposite side of the ravine
being flanked by steep rising ground, the earliest en-
largements took place over rapid slopes to the SE and
SW to the flat ground towards the bank of the river.
From this the extensions, which, till the latter part of
last century, constituted the main bulk of the city,
passed southward to an ancient bridge across the Clyde
on the site of the present Victoria Bridge. The central
line of thoroughfare through these extensions was the
Bell o' the Brae (High Street NE of its intersection with
George Street), leading to the flat ground, and then
continuously High Street, Saltmarket, and Bridgegate
to the bridge. This was intersected at the S end of
High Street at the Cross by a transverse line of streets
running E and W, Gallowgate striking oft' to the E and
Trongate to the W. The principal extensions of the
latter part of the 18th centxiry and the early part of the
19th century went westward, along the plain over all
the space between the high ground and the river, the
main thoroughfares being George Street, along the base
GLASGOW
of the high ground; Argyle Street, a continuation of
the Trongate westward; and a number of transverse
streets running in a direction nearly parallel to High
" extensions < "
Street i
.Itmarket. Othe
of contem-
porary date went eastward along the sides of the Gallow-
gate, and thence spread still farther to the E and SE,
forming suburbs; while a small suburb of ancient date,
at the S end of the bridge across the Clyde, spread
rapidly E and S and W. The more recent extensions
which have taken place to the N and NE, very largely
to the S, and most of all to the W, have been very wide,
so much so indeed that they have not only taken in
outlying suburbs of some antiquity, but have also
created new ones of considerable size; whilst the lines of
streets exhibit an amount of imposing architecture in
public buildings, works, warehouses, and private houses
of much greater account than that of all the previous
portions of the city. The westward extension on the
N bank of the river, which reaches from about the line
of Hope Street to nearly 2 miles W of the Kelvin, is
the finest of all, and, consisting mainly of elegant
private residences, with places of business and public
buildings interspersed, constitutes on the whole a West
End somewhat similar to the West End of London.
This portion of the city has the great advantage of
including the heights at Blythswood Square and Garnet
Hill, the high grounds to the E of Kelvingrove Park and
Gilmore Hill, with the reaches of the Kelvin between;
and is comparatively free from the smoke and turmoil
that prevail in most of the other parts of the city. It
offers indeed, along with the suburban districts, so many
advantages for residence that probably ere long, out of
business hours, the central portion of Glasgow will be as
little inhabited as the city in London, and the whole
area given over to business purposes.
From the outline of the growth of the streets of Glas-
gow just given, it will be evident that the older and
more irregular part of the city, with the usual closes
and narrow and crooked streets, will lie to the E of the
Cross, while the districts to the W, N, and S show
greater regularity of plan, the streets in most cases in-
tersecting at right angles, though the branching of some
of the main roads causes in many places minor deviations
by the formation of triangular and irregularly shaped
blocks. As might be expected from the course of the
river Clyde, the main lines of thoroughfare run in a
direction more or less from E to W, with cross streets
from N to S; but this regularity is best marked in the
districts on the S side and between Argyle Street and
George Street and Argyle Street and Sauchiehall Street.
In the eastern district, extending for lully a mile
in length and with an average breadth of 2^ furlongs,
is the public park of Glasgow Green, all that now re-
mains of the old common ground
N partly by somewhat ordinar l
nd. It is bounded on the
nary looking streets, with fac-
tories, and partly by neat terraces. The streets leading
westward are spacious, and for more than half a mile
are not encumbered by buildings next the river bank.
Beyond this the sheds for the traffic at the harbour
are close to the Clyde. The areas at the College
Station E of High Street, and of George and St
Enoch's Squares, break in this district the prevailing
density of the street masses. The West End dis-
trict displays a fine assemblage of handsome streets,
terraces, and crescents, intermixed with open ground
and spaces laid out with shrubs. The chief lines of
thoroughfare from N to S are by Springburn Road,
Castle Street, High Street, Saltmarket, Crown Street,
and Cathcart Road in the E; and by Garscube or New
City Road, Cowcaddens, Renfield Street, Union Street,
Jamaica Street, Glasgow Bridge, Bridge Street, and
Eglinton Street in the centre and towards the W; and
subsidiary lines are by Port Dundas Road and Buchanan
Street, and by Glassford Street, Stockwell Street, Victoria
Bridge, Main Street (Gorbals), and Pollokshaws Road.
The main line of thoroughfare from E to W is by Great
Eastern Road, Gallowgate, Trongate, Argyle Street,
Main Street (Anderston), and Dumbarton Road. There
are also subsidiary lines along both banks of the river,
S3
ospital
e beginning of the present century, and King-
ston about the same time on the part belonging to the
E to W are Polmadie, Govan-
GLASGOW
and by Stirling Road, Cathedral Street, Bath Street; by
Parliamentary Road and Sauchiehall Street; and by Duke
Street, George Street, St Vincent Place, Renfield Street,
Cowcaddens, and Great Western Road. The great part
of the streets on the S side are, as will be seen from the
historical section, much more modern than the central
part of the city. The compact districts of the city and
the continuous suburbs on the outskirts have separate
names, and were either originally separate villages or took
their names from separate estates. On the N are Cow-
caddens which takes its name from being the part of the
common land which was set apart for the feeding of the
town's cattle Port Dundas, St Rollox a corruption of
St Roche, who had in the district a chapel noticed in the
historical section-and Dennistoun; farther N from W
to E are Maryhill, Ruchill Park, Possilpark, Rockvilla,
Sighthill, and Springburn; on the E Calton an old
barony Camlachie, Mile-End, Bridgeton, and Parkhead;
on the S Gorbals, which has various subdivisions. The
lands of the last district, which form an old barony, were
left in 1650 by Sir George Douglas in trust to the magis-
trates, one-half for Huteheson's Hospital, one-fourth for
the Trades House, and one-fourth for the city. The lands
were divided in 1789, and the part acquired by the hospi-
tal was called Hutchesontown; what fell to the Trades
House, Tradeston. Lauriston was built on the hospital
ground in the
stoi
council. Still farther S from ^ ^ <IG J . U iui ui o,v. u ,a U -
hill, Crossbill, and Mount Florida ; Strathbungo, Crossmy-
loof, Langside, and Shawlands; and East and West
Pollokshields. On the W are Blythswoodholm from
the ancient barony of Blythswood; Anderston from Mr
Anderson, who was proprietor of the Stobcross lands
in 1725, and laid out the plan of the original village;
Kinnieston named after Mr Finnie, a tutor in the family
of Mr Orr, who had bought the estate of Anderston, and
who laid out a plan for a village about 1765; Sandy ford,
Kelvinhaugh, and Woodside. Anderston, Finnieston,
Gorbals, Hutchesontowu, Tradeston, and Kingston were
quite recently detached country villages. The suburban
villages and burghs connected with the main part of the
city by chains of houses or by partly open road, are, on
the E, Shettleston and Tollcross; on the WSW, Kinning
Park and Govan; and on the W, Partick and White-
inch.
Streets and Street Architecture. The city is in general
remarkably well built. The building material is a fine
light-coloured sandstone, the masonry substantial, and
the frontages in most parts lofty and good, though there
is often a tendency towards too profuse ornamentation
and to a rather factory-like arrangement of windows.
The older districts are mostly squalid, and have little or
none of the picturesqueness of the older Scottish architec-
ture which gives such a characteristic and quaint aspect
to portions of so many of the old towns of Scot-
land. Most of the other districts are plain in style, and
with nothing to distinguish the appearance of the houses
from that of dwellings in any of the other stone-built
towns in Britain, though the newer districts show more
ornament, some of it running to heaviness and in ques-
tionable taste. The older districts about Drygate, High
Street, Gallowgate, Bridgeton, Saltmarket, Bridgegate,
Trongate, the Wynds, Gorbals, and Calton have been
much altered and improved between 1866 and the
present time. The operations of the City of Glasgow
Union railway and still more of the City Improvement
Trust, acting under an act obtained in 1866, have
removed altogether or greatly altered and improved a
number of narrow and dirty courts, lanes, and streets
that were in their old state mere hotbeds of disease and
crime, and defied alike the efforts of sanitary inspector
and police to improve them. The newest districts of all
are ambitious and showy; some parts in very tasteful
Italian; others abounding in pillared porches, projecting
or divided windows, balconies, and balustrades; while
the grand front range on the crown of the hill overlook-
ing the West End Park is in the French style. A strong
fondness is shown for pillar decoration even up to the
94
Corinthian and composite, but the type adopted is often
poor. The great number of new buildings erected along
the principal streets of the city since about 1840 shows
a desire for variety of style and profusion of ornament
which sometimes leads to rather striking results. Edifices
of Norman, Italian, Flemish, and Scottish styles fre-
quently may be seen standing side by side with one
another and with old plain buildings, and occasionally a
lofty ornate iron shell replaces stonework. High Street,
Rottenrow, and Drygate retain but few signs of their
former grandeur, though the last was once filled with
the mansions of the aristocracy of the West. Alas, how
are the mighty fallen ! One of the best buildings in
it now is a well-planned lodging-house erected by the City
Improvement Trust, and containing accommodation for
200 persons. Rottenrow (originally routine and rue, as
it was the usual road of the church dignitaries to the
Cathedral ?) used formerly to contain the residences of
several of the prebendaries of the Cathedral. The city
gasworks were removed from it in 1872. At the E end
is the Barony Church, and on the opposite side of the
street a large block of one and two-room model dwell-
ings, erected in 1892 by the Glasgow Workmen's Dwell-
ings Company. This has a large hall, a common room, a
common kitchen, and a library, as well as club-rooms
and class-rooms for both men and women. The divi-
dend is limited to 5 per cent., and the rent is fixed on
a low scale to suit the means of the class for which the
houses are intended. At the corner of the street is the
hydraulic power pumping station of the Corporation.
Cathedral Square, at the E end of Rottenrow, was
formed partly by the operations of the City Trust and
partly by the removal of the old Barony Church in 1889.
The fountain in it was originally in the grounds of the
Glasgow Exhibition of 1888, and: was formally presented
to the city in 1890 by the makers and exhibitors, Messrs.
M 'Dowall, Steven & Co. , of the Milton Ironworks. Bell
o' the Brae, the upper part of High Street, from which the
buildings were removed by the Improvement Trust, and
the slope of the street lessened, derived its old name from
a bell placed in a small turret at its top, and always tolled
at funerals.* Duke's Place, adjacent to Drygate, con-
tained an ancient house at one time belonging to the Earl
of Lennox, and afterwards to the Duke of Montrose, where
Darnley's illness took place, and where Queen Mary
visited him. It was removed in 1853. Its connection
with the Duke gave name to Duke Street. John Knox
Street, extending from Cathedral Square to Duke Street,
was formed by the City Improvement Trust in 1872.
It replaced a cluster of wretched houses called the
Rookery, and is overlooked from the brow of the neigh-
bouring Necropolis by John Knox's Monument. Lady-
well Street, in the same neighbourhood, contains a small
restored structure over a well anciently dedicated to the
Virgin. Duke Street, a continuation of George Street
eastwards to the suburbs, has to the N the district of
Dennistoun with pleasant villas. It is not entirely built,
and
with ple
the Pr
son and the Cattle Market.
branching off to the left leads to the Alexandra Park.
George Street is in line with Duke Street to the W.
It is a straight well-built street, and contains the build-
ings of some of the departments of the Glasgow and
West of Scotland Technical College and the Inland
Revenue offices. High Street has been very much
altered by the action of the Improvement Trust, a
number of densely populated buildings that stood
nearly opposite the College station having been pulled
down, and their site occupied by the E end of Ingram
Street.
Saltmarket, extending about 2 furlongs S in a line
The first -deid bell' was fabled to have belonged to St Mungo,
but the earliest historical mention of it Is in 1821. It seems to
have then been square, and was probably of considerable antiquity.
Till the Reformation it was held in high esteem, but disappearing
in the turmoil that attended the change from the old state of things
10 the new.it was not recovered till 1577, when the finder received
'ten punds Scots money' and was made a burgess for his pains;
but the rrlic again disappeared or became worn out, for in 1612 a
new bell was cast, and this again was replaced in 1640 by another
now in the Kelvingrove Museum.
with High Street to the river and to the Court House at
Albert Bridge, was once the place of residence of the mag-
nates of Glasgow the Bailie Nicol Jarvies of their time
and gave lodging to James, Duke of York (afterwards
James VII.), when he visited Glasgow. It became the
rag fair of the city, and, with some of the streets leading
from it, was the abode of people in a condition of the
most squalid poverty. Prior to 1822 it contained some
old houses, but in that year extensive reconstruction
took place with a view to the improvement of the con-
dition of the inhabitants. The effort failed, and no
improvement was effected till the operations of the
' Improvement Trust and the Union railway cut off many
of its closes, and almost revolutionised it. On the E
side, at the N corner of Steel Street, was a house where
Oliver Cromwell lived when he was in Glasgow. The
site of the demolished buildings on the E side was, in
1887, occupied by blocks of model dwelling-houses
erected by the Improvement Trust. Bridgegate, lead-
ing westward from the S part of Saltmarket, also was
once a place of high note. It contained the mansions
of several noble families, and afterwards the only banks
of the city, the Merchants' Hall, and the Assembly
Rooms where the Duchess of Douglas used to lead off
the Glasgow civic balls in the last century. Here also
the Union railway and the Improvement Trust have
effected great improvements. St Andrew Square, 120
yards E of Saltmarket, and connected with it by St
Andrew Street, was built in the latter part of the ISthcen-
tury as an aristocratic quarter, and showed a symmetry
worthy of its importance and purpose, an appearance
enhanced by St Andrew's Church in the centre. It soon
fell into disrepute, however, and its narrow dark ap-
proaches have since been partly supplanted by modern
ious entrances. London Street, extending ESE from
' of Saltmarket, a straight, open, well-built
street, was formed at a comparatively recent period.
It was intended as a convenient outlet to the SE districts
to which it leads, partly by the line of Great Hamilton
Street, partly by Monteith Row and Glasgow Green.
The eastern districts are Bridgeton, Barrowfield, Mile-
end, and Calton. These contain a considerable number
of factories cotton, linen, jute and engineering and
other works. They have been improved by the construc-
tion of spacious streets under the Improvement Act.
Gallowgate, striking off eastwards from the Cross at an
acute angle with London Street, leads to the district of
Camlachie. It was formerly the principal outlet on the
E, but now has little to attract attention except here
and there some dwarfish old dwelling almost hidden by
the neighbouring houses. To the W of Barrack Street
were the old Barracks, which were superseded in 1876
by the new buildings at Maryhill, and which were de-
molished during the Bridgeton Cross extension of the
North British Railway in 1889. Trongate, the early state
of which is noticed in the historical section, was the seat
of all the main business of the city so late as the time
of the tobacco trade in the latter part of the 18th century.
The buildings are stately, though some of them are old.
It contains the Cross Steeple (the tower of the old Tol-
uildin
a Str,
the Scottish Baronial style wliicli
of a house where Sir John Moore was
spacious e
the head
booth) the Tontine buildings, the equestrian statue of
William III., the Tron Steeple, and an imposing block
of buildings (1858) in the Scottish Baronial style wh
(1858)
occupies
born. It was widened
and its continuation
a the S side in 1892. Trongate
stward, Argyle Street, are the
busiest thoroughfares in Glasgow. Candleriggs, at right
angles to Trongate, on the N, is an old street (1722)
of high houses on either side, and lately partly improved.
It has on the E side the City Hall and Bazaar, and St
David's church is at the top. Hutcheson Street and
Glassford Street, parallel to Candleriggs, are handsome
open streets. The former is named from Hutchesons'
Hospital, which stands at its top. Glassford Street
(1792) is named from a distinguished merchant of the
times of the tobacco trade mentioned by Smollett in
his Humphrey Clinker. On the W side is the Trades
Hall. Stockwell Street, going S to Victoria Bridge, is
older, and was long the SW verge of the city.
GLASGOW
Argyle Street mentioned under the name of West
Street (as leading from the West Port) in the early part
of the 18th century, and under its present name as early
as 1777 extends from Trongate westward to Anderston.
The centre dates from the beginning of the 19th century,
and the western part is subsequent to 1820. The older
part has been almost entirely reconstructed. It is a very
crowded thoroughfare, and as a seat of business is scarcely
surpassed by any street in Europe; though its appearance
W of Jamaica Street has been sadly marred by the bridge
that carries the lines of the Caledonian Railway at the S
end of the Central Station. Virginia Street (N) was
formed in 1753, and was then occupied by mansion-
houses. It takes its name from a house called Virginia
House, which belonged to a Virginia merchant named
Buchanan, and stood on the site now occupied by the
Union Bank. Miller Street (N) was opened in 1771,
and got its name from the proprietor of the ground. It
was also intended for mansions, and Mr Buchanan in
his Desultory Sketches of Glasgow tells how when it was
first laid out no feus were taken off for some time, as it
was considered too far out of town, a statement that
gives a far better idea of the increase in size of Glasgow
within the last hundred years than pages of description.
Dunlop Street (S) had at its head of old the Buck's
Head Hotel, long a place of high city note. From 1840
to 1868 the Theatre Royal was also here. Queen Street
(N) is on the line of the Cow Loan, by which the cows
of the inhabitants (kept in a common byre on the site
chan
It wa
presently occupied by the Royal Exchange) passed to
the public pastures at Cowcaddens
change. At the
N end, is the Queen Str
at the end of the 18th century, and now con tains the offices
of the National Bank of Scotland, and the Royal Ex-
f George Square, opposite the
t station of the North British
railway. Buchanan Street (N) is parallel to Queen Street.
It was opened in 1778, and took its name from the owner
of the ground. At first it was not intended to connect
it with Argyle Street, but the plan was afterwards
changed. The situation is described in an advertise-
ment as being 'rural and agreeable.' Even so late as
1816 it was the western street of the city. It was occu-
pied by villas, and was so quiet that grass grew abund-
tly on the carriage-way. It is now lined with shops
.nul
nts, and .
i of the finest
buildings in the city, including the offices of
Herald, the Western Club, the Stock Exchange," St
George's Church, part of the Athenaeum buildings, and
the original terminus of the Caledonian railway. The
Argyle Arcade passes E from Buchanan Street, and then,
turning oil 1 at right angles, enters Argyle Street. St
Enoch Square (S) was originally an aristocratic quarter,
with villas, and in the centre were shrubberies. It was
gradually given up to business, and about 1850 the
open central space was appropriated for a cab stand.
At the S side is St Enoch's Church; on the E side is St
Enoch's railway station and Hotel; and in the centre is
a station of the Glasgow Subway. Union Street (N)
is occupied by handsome and well-designed business
premises ; near the top of it are the offices of the North
British Daily Mail. Jamaica Street (S) was formed about
1760, and was then in the country. Now it is quite
as busy as Argyle Street, and thronged with people and
machines passing and repassing to Glasgow Bridge. W
of Union Street and Jamaica Street are booking offices
in connection with the Caledonian central station, also
the central station of the underground line of the same
company. Anderston, to the W of Argyle Street, was
founded in 1725. Originally occupied by weavers, it is
now the chief seat of the marine engineering industry.
Ingram Street striking eastward from Queen Street
opposite the Royal Exchange, was formed in 1777 on
the line of the Back Cow Loan, and was by the Improve-
ment Trust a century afterwards extended eastward to
High Street. It contains the British Linen Company's
Bank, the S wing of the General Post Office, the Union
Bank, Hutchesons' Hospital, the N frontage of the
County Buildings, and St David's Church. George
Square (1782) was originally surrounded by aristocratic
spacious opening sur-
ral enclosure
GLASGOW
private residences, with a spacious garden in the centre.
It became in course of time the centre of crowded thor-
oughfares, and in 1865 numerous paths were formed
across it. It now contains a number of monuments of
those whom the city delights to honour. The post
office is on the S side; the Queen Street station and
hotel of the North British railway on part of the N.
On the W side are the offices of the Bank of Scotland
and the Merchants' House, while on the E are the City
Chambers.
St Vincent Place, which runs W from the SW corner
of George Square, is spacious and open, with fine build-
ings. It contains the main front of the Bank of Scot-
land, the Clydesdale Bank, the offices of the Evening
Citizen, and a very handsome insurance office. St Vin-
cent Street, a continuation of the Place westward, was
one of the first of the new western streets, and out-
stripping the others passed over Blythswood Hill to
Anderston. It was originally dwelling-houses, but most
ot it is now given up for business premises. At its
highest point is the St Vincent Street United Presby-
terian Church. West George Street, parallel to St Vin-
cent Street to the N, has at the E end St George's
Church, and at the Renfield Street corner is the hand-
some office of the Sun Fire and Life Insurance Co.
(1892-3). Regent Street, parallel to West George Street,
and a number of the cross streets in the same quarter,
are handsome and airy and occupied by dwelling-houses;
at the corner of Regent Street and Renfield Street is the
office of the Prudential Assurance Co. (1890-92). On
the summit of the high ground at the W end of Regent
Street is Blythswood Square, a spacious opei '
rounded by dwelling-houses. There is a central
of grass. Bath Street runs W from Buchanan Street.
The buildings at the E end are devoted to business, but
the rest of it is occupied by substantial dwelling-houses,
a number of hotels, and several churches. Parallel again,
and N, is Sauchiehall Street, and on the S Bothwell
Street, which, terminating at Hope Street at the Cen-
tral Station, is continued eastward by Gordon Street to
Buchanan Street. Bothwell Street is one of the widest,
and promises by and by when fully built up to become
one of the finest streets in Glasgow. It already contains
on the S side the handsome offices of the Allan Steam-
ship Co. (1891) and the Conservative Club (1893), while
on the N are the over-ornamented offices of the Central
Thread Agency, and the dignified home of the Christian
Institute. This last is a very handsome building erected
in 1879, and extended in 1896-97, the style being Early
English Gothic. On corbelled niches above the doorway
are statues of Knox and Tyndale. and above the windows
of second floor are medallion busts of Luther and other
reformers. The Bible Training Institute is E of it.
Sauchiehall Street, at first parallel to Bath Street and
then turning WSW to the vicinity of Kelvingrove Park,
was, till 1830, a quiet narrow suburban thoroughfare
called Sauchiehall Road. The eastern part is now a
spacious business street, while the western comprises a
series of terraces and crescents, with lawns and shrub-
beries in front. It stands to Argyle Street very much
in the same relation as Oxford Street in London does to
the Strand. At the W end of the business part, at St
George's Road, are the Grand Hotel and the imposin"-
looking and well-designed block of buildings known as
Charing Cross Mansions (1890). On the S side of the
street, near the centre of the business part, stands the
Institute of the Fine Arts, where are held the Glasgow
Art Exhibitions. It is a building in the Greek style,
Cbut dignified. At the F end are the Royalty and
ire Theatres. From the N side of Sauchiehall Street,
opposite Wellington Street, there is communication with
Cowcaddens by a series of arcades called the Wellington
Arcade. They are much the same as the Argyle Arcade,
but not quite in such good style. Cowcaddens was, as
has been already mentioned, the common pasture for the
cattle belonging to the citizens. It is now a compactly
built and densely populated district. It contains the
Theatre Royal, the Grand Theatre, and the Free Church
Normal School. N of Cowcaddens on an elevated ridge
GLASGOW
is Port Dundas, where is the harbour of the Forth and
Clyde and the Monkland Canals. The appearance of
the lines of boats amid lofty houses on the crest of a
ridge some 60 feet above the adjacent level is somewhat
peculiar. Port Dundas is mainly a place of commerce
and manufacture, and has large warehouses and gran-
aries. There are here a very large distillery, and grain,
flour, and saw mills. Garnet Hill, flanking the N side
of Sauchiehall Street, near the centre, rises so steeply
in some parts as to be very inconvenient for carriages
and traffic, but is nevertheless covered with streets of a
good class. The western part of Sauchiehall Street and
the districts round are known collectively as the Cres-
cents. The district measures about 5 furlongs by 3, and
contains numerous terraces, which are well and uniformly
built with houses of good style, mostly varieties of
Italian, set oil' by the lawns and shrubs. On the higher
ground near Park Circus, and overlooking the whole
district, rise the tower of Park Church and the campanile
of the Free Church College. Sandyford, lying beyond,
and occupying the district between the Clyde and the
Kelvin, has a number of good streets.
From Cowcaddens the line of street is extended west-
ward by the New City Road and the Great Western
Road. The tract to the N of this was till 1830 quite
open, but it is now largely built on. Across the Kelvin
lies the district of Billhead, the whole of which is of
quite recent structure. The streets are wide and airy,
and most of them have good houses; while there are a
number of terraces, with grass plots and trees in front.
Constituted a police burgh in 1869 Billhead was annexed
to Glasgow in 1891. To the W and SW of it are the
large and important districts of Dowanhill and Kelvin-
side, entirely occupied by self-contained houses, either
in terraces or detached villas, these districts forming
two of the most aristocratic quarters of suburban Glas-
gow. In Kelvinside, on the N side of Great Western
Road, are the Botanic Gardens, which became a public
park belonging to the Corporation practically in 1887,
but legally in 1891. To the SW of Kelvinside is the
burgh of Partick, extending towards the Clyde. It is
large enough and populous enough to outrival many a
provincial town that plumes itself on its importance.
The part towards the river is occupied by densely-popu-
lated streets, the denizens of which are somewhat noted
for their rough character; but on the rising-ground -to
the N are immense numbers of detached or semi-detached
villas, which render this district one of the prettiest
and pleasantest about Glasgow. To the W of Partick
is the suburb of Whiteinch, with a considerable popula-
tion employed in the adjoining shipbuilding yards.
Govan, on the S side of the Clyde opposite Partick, was
once almost a rival of Glasgow. It is fully 2 miles in
length by about mile in breadth, and lies alon" the bank
of the river. The older parts of it show plain cottages,
now somewhat dingy; the newer parts show well-built
streets and neat villas. The bank of the river is occupied
by shipbuilding yards. Gorbals, which lies E of Govau
along the S bank of the Clyde, is the largest and most
populous district in the city, and is indeed large enough
of itself to rival Aberdeen or Dundee. It might in every
way be described as the Southwark of Glasgow. It mea-
sures about 2 miles by 1 mile, and has, in connection
with new manufactures, with railway works, and with
harbour works, spread rapidly and widely between 1835
and the present time. It comprises the districts of
Plantation, Kinning Park, Kingston, Tradeston, Laurie-
sontown. Some idea of the rapid
growth of these districts may be gathered from the fact
ston, and Hutchesont
that, between 1861 and 1871, the population of Kinning
Park increased from 651 to 7217, and between 1871 and
1891 again to 13,679. The
are mostly regular,
but vary very much in style. Egliuton Street and Vic-
toria Road, leading from Glasgow Bridge to Queen's
Park, is a fine line of thoroughlare.
Gorbals proper is a name sometimes given to the
parts of Laurieston and Hutchesontown adjoining the
Clyde near Victoria Bridge. Its chief thoroughfare used
to be a wretched old, narrow, and tortuous street called
GLASGOW
Main Street, ribbed with closes of the most squalid and
dismal order, every house in which was overcrowded to
an alarming extent. At that time it was such a hot-
bed of quarrels and disturbance that it was known as
'Little Ireland.' The City Improvement Trust, how-
ever, drove a new street with a width of 70 feet straight
over the old site of Main Street and its closes, and also
formed a series of new streets from Kingston Dock to
the E end of Hutchesontown. At the intersection of
this line with Main Street a sort of square has been
formed, measuring about 200 by 180 feet, and known
as Gorbals Cross. Hutchesontown, farther E still, is
about 6 by 4 furlongs in extent, and was coiisidrr.ilily
niodified by the operations of the City Union Railway,
which passes through the western part of it. It contains
a number of cotton factories, and an iron-work with
blast furnaces. Some distance S of these is Govanhill,
constituted a police burgh in 1877 and annexed to Glas-
gow in 1891. Under the name of ' No Man's Land ' the
district was in 1875 a bone of serious contention between
the burgh of Crossbill and the parent city, both of which
had cast envious eyes on it, and were anxious to include
it within their boundaries. Between Govanhill and the
Queen's Park is Crosshill (a separate burgh from 1871 to
1891) which, lately a mere village, has rapidly taken on
a thriving town-like appearance, as have also the dis-
tricts of Langside, Shawlands, and Crossmyloof to the
SW of the Queen's Park. To the N of these and between
them and Kinning Park and Kingston, are East and
West Pollokshields. The first, consisting of ordinary
tenements of a good class, was constituted a police burgh
in 1880 ; the latter, which consists almost entirely of
detached villas, in 1876; both were annexed to Glasgow
in 1891. To the W of these is Bellahouston and Ibrox;
and between them and Crosshill is Strathbungo.
History. Unlike many of the populous and enter-
prising towns of the present day, Glasgow can boast of
a history which proves that, even in those remote times
when trade and coniTnerce were unknown, it was a place
of considerable importance. The name Glasgow does
not appear till the 12th century, but there were two
villages called Deschu and Cathures on the same site.
These names, however, bore so little resemblance to
the present form, that the connection was difficult to
trace. M'Ure; the earliest historian of Glasgow, says
that 'it is called Glasgow because in the Highland
or Irish language Glasgow signifies a grayhound
or a gray-smith.' The New Statistical takes gray-
smith or dark glen, the latter referring to the ravine
at the Molendinar Burn. Wade, in his History of Glas-
gow, gives Welsh glas, 'green,' and coed, 'a wood'
the green wood. But Mr Macgeorge, in his Old Glas-
gow, seems to have solved the difficulty. He suggests
that the transcribers of the old MSS. mistook el for d,
and so wrote Deschu instead of Cleschu, from which
comes Gleschu, and hence Glasgu and Glasgow (Glax,
' green,' and ghu, ' beloved,' the name being therefore the
beloved green place). In the early part of the Christian
ra we find the district inhabited by a tribe called the
Damnonii, who were, during the time the Romans held
the Wall of Antoninus, under Roman rule within the
province of Valentia. This wall, in its course from Old
Kilpatrick on the Clyde to Blackness, passed a short
distance to the N of Glasgow ; and there are also the
remains of a large camp, said to be Roman, on the lands
of Camphill, near the battle-ground of Langside, about 2
miles S of the city. Probably there were Roman garrisons
at stations scattered among the conquered tribes behind
the wall, and of these one is said to have been at Glas-
gow ; but nothing except the vague tradition of its
existence is known, not even its name. When the
Romans retired, the district became part of the Cum-
brian British kingdom of Strathclyde; but the im-
portant place in this connection is DUMBARTON, then
the chief town, and called Alclyde or the Rock of the
Clyde. St Ninian who was trained at Rome, and
founded the church of WHITHORN in 397 according to
the 12th century Life of St Kentigern by Jocelyn of
Furness, established a primitive church and consecrated
GLASGOW
a burial-ground at a place called Cathures, where Glas-
gow Cathedral now stands. This was about the begin-
ning of the 5th century, but his influence seems to
have passed away with himself; and when Deschu
next emerges from obscurity, it is in connection with
its later and locally more famous saint, Kentigern or
Mungo, who made his appearance in the district some-
where near the middle of the 6th century, and probably
about 543 A.D. St Kentigern or Mungo was the son
of Ewen ap Urien or Eugenius, a prince of the Britons
of Strathclyde according to some the King of Cum-
briaand Thenew, daughter of Loth, King of North -
umbria, or, according to others, King of the Lothians,
to which he is supposed to have given name. Though
Loth was 'a man half pagan,' his daughter had becomo
a convert to Christianity, and, according to the legend,
in her zeal for her new faith, became desirous of rival-
ling the virginal honour and maternal blessedness of the
Virgin Mary. In carrying out her purpose she scorned
all suitors, Prince Eugenius, who had her father's in-
fluence to back him, among the rest. To escape from
farther trouble, she at last fled to a remote part of
the kingdom, and concealed herself in the lowly
guise of a swineherd. Prince Eugenius, however, fol-
lowed her and found her, and she returned to her
father's court, only to be relentlessly condemned to
death on account of her condition. Though she denied
all crime, her father refused to listen to her prayers for
life, and handed her over to the executioners to be
;oned to death. They preferred the easier plan of
sting her over a precipice, Dumpender or Traprain
aw, but she escaped unhurt. This was considered
ear proof of sorcery, and she was put into a coracle,
liich was taken down the Forth to the Isle of May
id there set adrift ; but this was no more fatal to
er than the former attempt, for a shoal of fishes
made their appearance at this opportune moment and
carried the boat on their backs to the shallow water
at Culross, on the N side of the Firth of Forth. Here
Thenew landed and gave birth to a son, and both
mother and child were brought by some of the country
people to St Serf or Servanus, a disciple of St Palladius,
who had here established a little monastery.* He
received them into his household, where the infant re-
ceived his nurture, and was taught the rudiments of his
faith. The boy, named Kentigern (Welsh cyn, ' chief,'
and teyrn, ' lord '), turned out so well as he grew up,
that he became a great favourite with the aged Serf,
who gave him the pet name of Munghu (Welsh mwyn,
'amiable,' and , 'dear'), whence came the second
better known than by the name of Kentigern. As he
grew in years and knowledge, he displayed a faculty
for working miracles which soon attracted attention.
He restored to life a robin-redbreast whose head had
been cut off ; one winter night when the fire was
quenched by his enemies, he kindled it again with a
frozen branch which he blew into a flame ; during har-
vest the cook died and there was no one to provide
food for the reapers, whereupon St Serf himself came
and enjoined his Mungo either to restore the cook to
life or to fill his place, a command which he obeyed by
bringing the cook to life again. Obeying a monition
of the Spirit, he secretly left Culross to devote himself
to work in other places, and went southward, the waters
of the Forth opening to allow him to pass. He was
followed by St Serf, who, looking forward to him as his
successor, begged him to return ; but feeling his duty
to lie elsewhere, he would not go back. Journeying
westward, he found, at a place called Kernach, an aged
Christian named Fergus, to whom it had been revealed
that he should not die until he had seen one who
bring back the district to the faith of St Ninian, and
who, almost as soon as he saw St Mungo, fell dead on the
ground. Taking the body with him in a cart drawn by
two wild bulls, the saint proceeded on his journey till he
reached Deschu and Cathures on the banks of the Clyde,
* The anachronism involved in this portion of the legend taa
heen already noticed under CULROBS.
GLASGOW
and here, in the churchyard consecrated by St Ninian,
he buried Fergus. His fame must have either gone
before him or must have spread very rapidly, for he was
almost immediately visited by the king and the leading
men of Strathclyde, who begged him to become their
religious guide. The saint, who was only twenty-five,
pleaded his youth as an excuse ; but they were deter-
mined to have him, and he was consecrated by a bishop
brought from Ireland for the purpose. His habits were
very ascetic, for he is said to have been in the habit of
often rising in the middle of the night and rushing into
the Molendinar Burn, where he remained in the water,
no matter what the season or the weather, till he had
recited the whole of the Psalms of David. He still re-
tained miraculous power. A young man who scoffed at
him was killed suddenly by a falling weight ; he sowed
sand and a crop of fine grain grew ; he ploughed a field
with a team consisting of a wolf and a stag. At length ,
however, he became involved in a quarrel with the king
Morken because in answer to a mocking taunt of his
majesty he had actually caused the Clyde to sweep the
contents of the king's barns at Cathures up the Molen-
dinar Burn to Deschu. Morken shortly after, using
violence to the saint, was killed by being flung from his
horse, and the saint, to escape the vengeance of the
king's relatives, had to flee to Wales. Here, after re-
maining for a time with St David, he founded a monas-
tery, and gathered about him a band of disciples at the
place now known, from the most celebrated of his fol-
lowers, as St Asaph's. The victory of Arthuret (573)
placed Rydderch Hael on the throne of Strathclyde,
and he at once despatched an embassy to Wales to St
Mungo to urge him to return to his old abode on the
banks of the Clyde, and, the effort succeeding, the
saint's power became greater than before. His miracu-
lous gift continued, and was exemplified in a very
wonderful way in connection with the queen. This
lady, named Langueth, had received from her husband
at their marriage a peculiar ring, of which she was not
so careful as she should have been, and which she
had entrusted to the keeping of a soldier with whom
she was in some way connected. The king one day
found the soldier sleeping, and noticed the ring on his
finger, and, his anger being roused at the small value
the queen thus seemed to set upon the jewel, he took
it from the man's finger, and casting it into the river,
went straightway to the queen and told her he
wished for the ring. She urged delay, and sent
for it, but it was, of course, not to be found ; i
and her
, , ,
majesty in great dismay applied to the saint, who forth-
with came to her rescue. He told her to cause a fishing-
line to be cast into the Clyde, when the first fish that
was caught would be found to have the ring either in its
mouth or in its stomach. This turned out exactly
he had said, and the ring being thus restored the jealc
monarch was satis" '
This, incident has given the city the main features of its
armorial bearings, while other incidents in St Mungo's
life have supplied the whole. The arms, as settled by
the Lord Lyon King of Arms, and described in his
patent granted at Edinburgh on 25 Oct. 1866, are :
'Argent, on a mount in base vert an oak tree
proper, the stem at the base thereof surmounted by a
salmon on its back, also proper, with a signet ring in its
mouth, or ; on the top of the tree a redbreast, and on
the sinister fess point an ancient hand-bell, both also pro-
per. Above the shield is to be placed a suitable helmet,
iper liveries is to
half-length figure of S. Kentigern, affronte,
ith a mantling gules, doubled argent, and issuing out
th of the proper liveries is to be set for crest the
of a wreat
sted and
of benediction, and
mitred, his right hand raised in the
having in his left hand a crazier, all proper : in a com-
partment below the shield are to be placed for supporters
two salmonproper, each holding in its mouth a signetring,
or ; and in the escrol entwined with the compartment
this motto, " Let Glasgow flourish." ' The salmon and
the ring are connected with the foregoing story ; the
tree is the branch with which the monastery fire was
lighted ; the bird is the robin that was miraculously
restored to life ; and the bell is the consecrated one that
was brought from Rome by St Mungo when he visited
the sacred city in his later years, and which was placed
in the college buildings, and preserved in Glasgow till
the Reformation, or perhaps to a later date. It was
called St Mungo's Bell, and was tolled through the city
to warn the inhabitants to pray for the repose of a de-
parted soul. These tokens appear on the seals of the
bishops of Glasgow in the 12th and 13th centuries, from
which they were transferred to the common seal of the
city in the beginning of the 14th. This at least seems
a probable explanation, and as such it is now accepted
in preference to the fanciful theory propounded by
Cleland in his Rise and Progress of Glasgow, where
he says, ' The tree is emblematical of the spreading of
the Gospel : its leaves being represented as for the
healing of the nations. The bird is also typical of that
glorious event, so beautifully described under the
similitude of the winter being passed, and the rain
over and gone, the time of the singing of birds being
come, and the voice of the turtle heard in our land.
Bells for calling the faithful to prayers, and other holy
ordinances of the Church, have been considered so im-
portant in Roman Catholic countries, that for several
centuries past the right of consecration has been con-
ferred on them by the dignitaries of the Church. That
religion might not absorb the whole insignia of the
town, the trade, which at that time was confined to
fishing and curing salmon, came in for its share, and
this circumstance gave rise to the idea of giving the
salmon a place in the arms of the city.' The motto,
which is said to have been in its original form ' Let
Glasgow flourish by the preaching of the word,' tradi-
tionally takes its origin from a mound which the saint
raised miraculously at the DovehiU, E of the Cross, to
enable him to get an elevation from which to preach to
the crowd. Glasgow was to rise and flourish as this
mound had done. The motto does not, however, seem
to have been in use previous to 1699.
The rest of the saint's life is little more than a record
of the miracles he performed, not only in Strathclyde,
but all over the country, his travels being widely ex-
tended, and on more than one occasion reaching as far
as Rome, where he was kindly received by the Pope and
confirmed in his bishopric. The one historic event of
his later years appears to be his visit from Columba on
the banks of the Molendinar about the year 584, when
the saints interchanged their pastoral staves. His death
took place probably in 612, and he was buried, according
to the monkish chronicler, at the right hand side of the
high altar of the cathedral. See the two Lives of St
Kentigern edited by Bishop Forbes in vol. v. of The
Historians of Scotland (Edinb. 1874), and vol. ii., pp.
197-198, of Dr Skeue's Celtic Scotland (Edinb. 1877).
The successors of St Mungo are involved in obscurity,
though no doubt the sanctity pertaining to the resting-
place of the bones of so holy a man would for a time
keep his establishment together, and help to increase
the size of the village close by. It must have suffered,
however, in the struggle against the supremacy of
GLASGOW
the Roman Church, and probably also in the com-
motions and strife produced by the incursions of the
Danes, as well as in the contest in which the king-
dom of Strathclyde disappeared and the country passed
under the sway of the king of the Scots. Whatever
the cause, so at least it was ; and, just as in the case
of Lichfield, the records of the see of Glasgow dis-
appear for full 500 years. 'After St Mungo,' says
M'Ure, a quaint early historian of Glasgow, 'for many
ages the Episcopal see was overrun with heathenism and
barbarity till the reign of Alexander I.' When Alex-
ander succeeded to the throne in 1107, he bestowed
on his younger brother David, Prince of Cumbria,
all the territory S of the Forth except the Lothians ;
and as David inherited all his mothers zeal for reli-
gion, he set himself to look after the spiritual condition
of his subjects as vigorously as after their temporal
welfare. The saintly character of St Mungo, and his
connection with Glasgow, very soon attracted David's
attention, and in 1115 he restored the see, and ap-
pointed his tutor and chaplain John (commonly called
Achaius) the first of the new line of bishops. John,
who was a man of learning and ability, as well as with
considerable knowledge of the world, for he had tra-
velled extensively on the Continent, was at first some-
what unwilling to accept the proffered promotion, but
at last yielded to the prince's wishes, and was consecrated
by Pope Paschal II. , to whom he was well known. An in-
quisition ' concerning the lands belonging to the church
of Glasgow," a copy of which exists in the chartulary of
Glasgow, was made in 1120. In this it is set forth that
'various disturbances, everywhere arising,' had 'not
only destroyed the church and her possessions, but,
wasting the whole country, driven the inhabitants into
exile ' and that the inhabitants, thus left to them-
selves, had followed the manners of the Gentiles and
lived 'like brutes ;' but that now 'God sent unto them
David as their prince,' who was to set this scandalous
state of matters right, and who for that purpose had
appointed John as their bishop. John, it goes on to
say, was frightened at their barbarity and their abomin-
able sins, but had been constrained by the Pope to enter
upon the burdensome charge ; and so the Prince had
caused all the lands formerly belonging to the church
of Glasgow to be found out and made over to the new
bishop, that he might have sinews for his struggle with
the wrong. The bishop had more trouble, too, than
what merely arose from the condition of his see, for he
got involved in a quarrel about church supremacy with
the Archbishop of York, who claimed to be metropolitan
of Scotland, and adduced in support of that claim a
record (strongly, and with good cause, suspected of being
a forgery) of three bishops of Glasgow consecrated at
York in the llth century. John resisted the York
claims, and was so sorely tried that he quitted his see
for the purpose of proceeding to the Holy Land. The
Pope, however, ordered him to return, and 1124 found
the good bishop not only settled again, but beginning
to replace the primitive church of St Mungo by a statelier
erection, of which some parts were of stone. The new
cathedral was consecrated in presence of his royal
C' on, who was now King of Scotland, on 7 July 1136.
Prince had, on his accession to the throne, made
large donations to the establishment, and he now further
conferred on it the lands of Perdeyc [Partick], which
still form part of the episcopal belongings, though they
have passed into the hands of the University. Accord-
ing to the Registrum Episcopcdus Glasguensis, 'the
Idng, David I., gave to the church the land of Perdeyc
[Fartick], which was soon afterwards erected, along with
the church of Guvan [Govan]. into a prebend of the
cathedral. In addition to the long list of possessions*
Kcvcronum, Lilleseliva, Hodelm, Edyngahum, Abennele, Drives-
dale, Colchtam, Kevertrole, Aschib, Brumeseheyd. Keversgyrt;
sof land and a church; in Kincayrdfone
In Poeblis, one carucate
a church ; In Kii
Merebod., one,
restored to Glasgow upon the verdict of the assize of
inquest, this saintly King granted to the bishop the
church of Renfrew ; Guvan, with its church ; the church
of Cadihou [Cadzow] ; the tithe of his cane or duties
paid in cattle and swine throughout Strathgrif, Cunin.<j-
ham, Kyle, and Carrick ; and the eighth penny of ail
pleas of court throughout Cumbria (which included the
greater part of Scotland S of the Forth and Clyde, as
well as the English county of Cumberland). The bishop
also acquired the church of Lochorwort, near Borthwick
in Lothian, from the Bishop of St Andrews, the King
and Prince present and consenting.' David, the sainted
son of St Margaret, was the greatest benefactor known
in the annals of the see of Glasgow, and this is only
one example of that liberality in gifting royal posses-
sions to the Church which earned him from James VI.
the character of ' ane sair sanct for the croon.' At the
time of the consecration of the cathedral, ' the diocese
was divided into two archdeaconries of Glasgow and
Teviotdale, and for the first time there were appointed
a dean, sub-dean, chancellor, treasurer, sacrist, chanter,
and sub-chanter, all of whom had prebends settled upon
them out of the gifts received from the King.' Bishop
John died on 28 May 1147, after having held the see
for the long period of thirty-two years. He was suc-
ceeded by Bishop Herbert, in whose time the strife with
York was finally ended by Pope Alexander III., who
decided that the only controlling power over the Church
of Scotland was the see of Rome. He died in 1164, in
which year also Malcolm IV. made proclamation that
tithes were to be paid in the bishopric of Glasgow just
as elsewhere. Herbert was succeeded by Ingram, who
died in 1174 ; and was in turn succeeded by Joceline,
abbot of the Cistercian monastery of Melrose, who was
consecrated at Clairvaux, in France, on 1 June 1175, by
Esceline, the Pope's legate. He is reputed on all hands
to have been a worthy and liberal-minded prelate, and
his actions prove him to have been one of the greatest,
if not the greatest, of the occupants of the episcopal
throne of Glasgow. Above all others ought he to be
held in happy remembrance by the citizens of Glasgow,
for, by a charter obtained from William the Lyon about
1180, the first start was given to the growth of Deschu
into something more than a village. By this charter
Glasgow was constituted a burgh of barony, holding of
the bishop ; and the King granted and confirmed ' to
God and St Kentigern, and Joceline, Bishop of Glasgow,
and all his successors for ever, that they shall hold a
burgh at Glasgow, with a weekly market on Thursday,
fully and freely, with all freedoms, liberties, and customs
which any of my burghs throughout the whole of my
kingdom enjoy.' Subsequently, about 1190, the bishop
" rther t ' "
year for ever,
from the octave~of the Apostles Peter and Paul, for the
space of eight days complete, with' the King's 'full
protection, and with every freedom and all other liberties
belonging and granted to fairs throughout the whole of
his ' dominions, as fully and freely as all fairs are or
ought to be held in any of his 'dominions.' The
octave of St Peter and St Paul fell on 6 July, and on
that date the fair is still kept up with unfailing regu-
larity, the only difference from the olden time being,
that, instead of being held for business purposes, it is
now characterised by the total want of it, Glasgow Fair
being in those days the annual holidays, when labour is
suspended and the industrious thousands enjoy a few days'
recreation. While thus mindful of the temporal benefit
of those under his charge, he was no less diligent i?i
matters relating to their spiritual care. In 1192 the
church built by Bishop John was burned, and so com-
plete-was the destruction that it is evident the greater
portion must have been constructed of wood, though,
judging from the fragments of Norman architecture that
have since been dug up, some part at least was of stone.
Joceline at once set himself to the task of rearing a new
and more substantial edifice. He obtained a royal edict
from his ever-ready patron, King William, which ex-
pressed the King's sympathy with the ruined condition
obtained for his burgh the further privilege of ' a fair to
be kept at Glasgow, and to be held every ;
of the church, which '
umed by fire,' required ' the
most ample expenditure for its repairs,' and charged all
hat help
gather-
ing subscriptions ?) appointed by the bishop. Aid was
r its repairs,' and carge a
his servants throughout the kingdom to give what help
e ' fratern
s ?) appoin
nvoked from th
they could to the ' fraternity ' (
ittee for
be pious all over Europe ; and Joceline's
appeal was so generously answered, that the present
beautiful crypt known by his name was consecrated in
1197, on the octave of St Peter and St Paul, other two
bishops besides Joceline himself taking part in the cere-
mony. In the crypt a tomb was erected, with a votive
altar, dedicated to St Mungo. The merit has also been
assigned to Joceline of having built the superincumbent
choir and lady chapel ; but it seems now proved that
these were only commenced by him, and were completed
by his successors. Still the honour belongs to him of
being the founder of the existing magnificent and vene-
rable structure, for it is certain that no part of the
church built by Bishop John now remains above ground.
After having held office for twenty-four years, Joceline
died on 17 March 1199, and was buried on the right side
of the choir. The next three bishops seem to have done
little or nothing for the rising burgh ; but in the time
of the next bishop, Walter, a contest took place with
Dumbarton and Rutherglen, both by that time royal
burghs, with regard to tolls and customs. A royal
charter had granted exemption to the bishop and his
people from the dues levied by these places, and this
the royal burghs resented and opposed as an infringe-
ment of their privileges ; but, notwithstanding all their
efforts, the bishop was powerful enough to obtain an
edict declaring that his burgesses ' were entitled to
trade in Lennox and Argyll as freely as the men of
Dumbarton,' and Rutherglen was prohibited from levy-
ing toll or custom nearer Glasgow than the cross of
Shettlestone. Bishop Walter died in 1232, and was
succeeded by William de Bondin^ton, who pushed on
the building of the cathedral, and in whose time the
choir was either altogether or almost finished. A special
canon was passed at a provincial council of the clergy,
commending the work to the benevolence of the faithful,
and promising certain indulgences to all who should
contribute. This Bishop William, who also held the
office of chancellor to King Alexander II. during the
latter half of his reign, was a munificent prelate, and,
besides his exertions on behalf of the cathedral, he
aided, in 1246, in establishing at Glasgow a monastery
of friars of the order of St Dominic (Mack Friars).
Their church, which is said to have rivalled the cathe-
dral itself, was dedicated to the blessed Virgin and St
John the Evangelist ; and when the building com-
menced, Pope Innocent IV. issued a bull of forty days'
indulgence to all who should contribute to its comple-
tion. The church stood on the E side of Hi"h Street,
and must have been a fine old building. M'Ure dec-lares
that it was ' the ancientest building of Gothic kind of
work that could be seen in the whole kingdom, as was
observed by Mr Miln, the architect to King Charles I.,
who, when he surveyed it in 1638, declared that it had
not its parallel in all Scotland, except Whittairn in Gallo-
way.' Even in 1638, however, it must have lost some
of its old grandeur, for at the time of the Reformation
it was deserted and probably injured ; and on 24 April
1574 it was ' statute, thocht gude, and ordainit, be the
provest, baillies, and counsale that the westir ruinous
gavill of the Blackfreir kirk and the stanes thereof be
tain doun ' and sold, and the proceeds applied to mend-
ing the windows and the minister's seat ' in the said
kirk.' The latter building survived till 1670, when,
having been struck by lightning, it was taken down
and replaced by the old College or Blackfriars church,
which is now also gone. The adjoining ' place ' or
monastery of the friars was largely and richly endowed.
When King Edward I. of England remained in Glasgow
for a fortnight in the autumn of 13C1, he was lodged in
the monastery of the Friars Preachers, from which it
nay be inferred that it was the only building in the
town capable of accommodating the monarch and his
train. Although his residence was with the friars,
GLASGOW
however, Edward, as became one desirous of being re-
puted a pious king, was constant in his offerings at the
high altar and the shrine of St Mungo. The accounts
of Edward's wardrobe show that he requited the hos-
pitality of the brethren with a payment of six shillings.
No vestiges of the monastery now remain. It occupied
the site of the old university, near the place now occu-
pied by the Midland Railway Company's offices.
Bishop William died in 1258, and his two successors
are of very little importance or influence, one of them
being indeed so obnoxious to his flock that he resided at
Rome. In 1273, however, Robert Wishart or Wischard,
a man of eminence and a member of the council of Alex,
ander III., became bishop. Unlike his predecessors his
services were of a national rather than of a local nature.
Being, after the death of the king, appointed one of the
lords of regency, he took a vigorous part in the struggle
for national independence ; and in these perilous times no
man exerted himself with more ardour or a purer patriot-
ism towards the preservation of the independence of his
country from the assaults of Edward I. It was in
Glasgow during his episcopate that Wallace was cap-
tured on 5 Aug. 1305 by Sir Alexander Monteith, and
carried off to Dumbarton, thence a week later to be
taken to London for trial and execution ; and Wishart
himself, although imprisoned by the English, and so
cruelly treated that he became blind, yet lived to see the
cause for which he had struggled entirely successful, and
Robert the Bruce firmly seated on the Scottish throne.
'The affectionate sympathy expressed by the King
(Robert the Bruce) for the bishop would serve to give us
some insight into his character, even if the history of
Robert Wischard were not so well known. It was a
time when strong oppression on the one side made the
other almost forget the laws of good faith and humanity.
Our bishop did homage to the Suzerain and transgressed
it ; he swore fidelity over and over again to the King of
England, and as often broke his oath. He kept no
faith with Edward. He preached against him ; and
when the occasion offered, he buckled on his armour
like a Scotch baron and fought against him. But let it
not be said that he changed sides as fortune changed.
When the weak Baliol renounced his allegiance to his
overlord, the bishop, who knew both, must have divined
to which side victory would incline, and yet he opposed
Edward. When Wallace, almost single-handed, set up
the standard of revolt against the all-powerful Edward,
the Bishop of Glasgow immediately joined him. When
Robert Bruce, friendless and a fugitive, raised the old
war-cry of Scotland, the bishop supported him. Bruce
was proscribed by Edward and under the anathema of
the Church. The bishop assoilzied him for the sacri-
legious slaughter of Comyn (in the Greyfriars' Church
at Dumfries), and prepared the robes and royal banner
for his coronation. Wischard was taken prisoner in the
castle of Cupar, which he had held against the English
in 1306, and was not liberated till alter Bannockburn.
. . . The bishop had grown blind in prison.' Not-
withstanding his activity in national matters he took
also an interest in his cathedral, for he seems to have
made arrangements for a supply of timber for the erec-
tion of a steeple, and part of this, curiously, he had pro-
cured from Edward himself ; indeed one of the charges
preferred by the English king against the bishop was
'that he had used timber which he [Edward] had
allowed him for building a steeple to his cathedral, in
constructing engines of war against the King's castles,
and especially the castle of Kirkintilloch.' So greatly
was Edward's anger roused against the patriotic bishop
that, had not fear of exciting the ire and resentment of
the Pope restrained his hand, he would probably have
put him to death. Wischard was, alongwith Bruce's
queen and daughter, exchanged for the Earl of Here-
ford, who had been captured in Bothwell Castle by
Edward Bruce immediately after the Battle of Ban-
nockburn. The severity of his treatment, however,
had proved too much for him, and he died in Nov.
1316, and was buried in the cathedral between the
altars of St Peter and St Andrew. During tho earlier
part of the national strife, an English garrison was
quartered in the bishop's castle near'the cathedral, and
many of the older historians, following Blind Harry,
make Glasgow the scene, in 1300, of a desperate conflict
between the English and the Scots. However much the
details may be open to question, there is probably some
foundation of fact for the incident, though the blind
bard has undoubtedly indulged his usual tendency to
such exaggeration as would magnify the exploits of his
hero. Edward, it is stated, had appointed one of his
creatures named Anthony Beck or Beik Bishop of Glas-
gow during the captivity of Robert Wishart, and a
large English force, under Earl Percy, was stationed in
the neighbourhood of the cathedral, both for the pur-
pose of supporting the bishop in his new dignity and of
overawing the discontented inhabitants of the western
shires. Wallace, who was in possession of Ayr, after
the burning of the barns, gathered his men and ad-
dressed them,
He first summoned the men of Ayr,
And gaiff commaund in generall to thaim aw.
In keepyng thai suld tak the houss ofl Ayr,
And hald it haill quhill tyrne that we her mayr.'
And that place being thus left safe, started with his
company of 300 and made in hot haste for Glasgow.
They pushed on so fast that they by
After crossing the bridge Wallace divided his followers
into two bodies, one of which, led by himself, marched
by the High Street ; while the other, under the Laird
of Auchinleck, 'for he the passage kend,' went by St
Mungo's Lane and the Dry gate. Percy had a force of
1000 men, and with these between Bell o' the Brae and
the site of the old university he met the body under
Wallace. While the battle was doubtful the other
body came rushing on from the Drygate, Percy being
cut down by Wallace himself. The English were seized
with a panic, and fled in all directions, notwithstanding
that they were 'gud men off wer' like 'all Northum-
myrland. '
The three bishops who held the see from 1317 to
1336 need merely a passing mention, but the next
bishop, William Rae, who held office from 1337 to 1367,
has the honour of having erected the first bridge of
Glasgow. From Blind Harry's account of the Battle of
Bell o' the Brae, it would seem that there was a wooden
bridge across the river ; but this Bishop Rae was able,
notwithstanding the impoverished condition of the dio-
cese, between 1345 and 1350, to replace by a stone
bridge of eight arches, which, though only 12 feet wide,
was long looked on as a marvel of architectural skill.
A pious lady of the family of Lochow, who had some
property in the burgh, bore the expense of one arch,
and besides erected a leper's hospital, afterwards known
as St Ninian's Hospital, in the Gorbals district. The
bridge, known as Stockwell Bridge, remained till 1777,
when it was repaired and widened to 22 feet, and it was
again repaired in 1821, but it had become so shaky and
unsuitable that in 1845 it was condemned, and in 1847
was replaced by Victoria Bridge. The bishop who suc-
ceeded Rae was Walter Wardlaw, who died in 1387. He
was followed by Matthew Glendinning, in whose time
the wooden spire of the cathedral was struck by light-
ning and destroyed. He made preparations for the
erection of a new stone spire, but died before anything
was done. He died in 1408, and left the carrying out
of the work to the new bishop, William Lauder. The
spire, as then constructed up to the first battlement,
still remains, and forms a magnificent and fitting monu-
ment of the taste and skill with which it was designed
and carried out. Lauder also laid the foundation of the
chapter-house. He died in 1425, and was succeeded
by Bishop John Cameron (supposed to be of the family
of Lochiel), then Provost of LincluJen and secretary
to the King. On his appointment to the bishopric
he was promoted to the chancellorship, which he held
till 1440. His generosity and large expenditure in
connection with his see won for him the title of
'the Magnificent,' and he seems to have deserved it,
though, according to Pitscottie, he was by no means
an amiable man ; for by this writer the bishop is
described as 'the principal ruler of the prince and
court to all mischief and innocent slaughter dona
in thir troublous times. . . . For he counselled
them to exercise all such scaithing and oppression upon
the realm as he had done himself upon the poor tenants
of Glasgow.' He resumed the building of the chapter,
house, and either extended or completed various other
portions of the cathedral (including the spire), as may
be seen by the carvings of his arms still existing on
several portions of the structure. Cameron also built
the 'great tower' of the bishop's palace in Glasgow.
During his incumbency the episcopal see was in the
zenith of its temporal glory and power. The preben-
daries, originally seven, now numbered thirty-two, and
the revenues were very large. With a view of adding
dignity to the episcopal court, he ordained that the
prebendaries should reside in the neighbourhood of the
cathedral church, and in consequence that portion of the
city was extended and adorned by their comfortable
mansions and orchards. A number of their houses re-
mained in good condition till the close of the last cen-
tury, and a few even later, though in a dingy and dila-
pidated condition. By contemporary writers the court
of Bishop Cameron is spoken of as almost rivalling that
of the monarch himself, from the great number of dig-
nified ecclesiastics and noblemen of the first considera-
tion whom he drew around him. 'He was,' says Pagan,
' fond of celebrating the great festivals of the Church,
and on these occasions he entered the choir through the
nave by the great western door (recently opened up),
preceded by many high officials, one of whom bore his
silver crozier or pastoral staff, and the othe
costly maces and other emblems. These wer
by the members of the chapter, and the procession
moved on amidst the ringing of bells, the pealing of the
great organ, and the vocal swell of the choristers, who were
gorgeously arrayed in vestments of high price ; the To
Deum was then sung and high mass celebrated. On certain
highly solemn occasions it pleased the prelate to cause the
holy relit
the edific
rtulary, principally consisted of the following objects
of veneration : (1st), The image of our Saviour in gold ;
(2d), the images of the twelve apostles in silver; (3d), a
cross, adorned with precious stones and a small
piece of wood of the cross of our Saviour; (4th), another
of smaller dimensions, adorned with precious stones ;
(5th), one silver casket, gilt, containing some of the hairs
of the blessed Virgin ; (6th), in a square silver coffer,
part of the scourges of St Kentigern and St Thomas of
Canterbury, and part of the hair garment made use o(
by St Kentigern our patron ; (7th), in another silver
ket, gilded, part of St Bartholomew the Apostle ;
(8th), in a silver casket, gilded, a bone of St Ninian ;
(9th), in another silver casket, gilded, part of the girdle
of the blessed Virgin Mary ; (10th), in a crystal case a
bone of some unknown saint, and of St Magdalene ;
(llth), in a small phial of crystal part of the milk of the
blessed Virgin Mary, and part of the manger of our
Lord ; (12th), in a small phial a liquor of the colour of
saffron, which flowed of old from the tomb of St Ke
,
Eugene and St Blaze ; (14th), in another silver phial
part of the tomb of St Catherine the Virgin ; (15th),
precious hide with a part of the bones of St Kenti-
gern and St Thomas of Canterbury ; (17th), four other
hides with bones of saints and other relics ; (18th), a
wooden chest with many small relics ; (19th), two linen
bags with the bones of St Kentigern and St Thenew and
other deceased saints. Indeed the paraphernalia of the
101
was en sung an g mass ceerae. n certan
y solemn occasions it pleased the prelate to cause the
I'flii's belonging to the church to be exhibited for
dification of the faithful. These, according to the
gern ; (13th), one other silver phial with some bones of
St Eugene and
the tomb of St Catherine the Virgin
ll hide, with a part of St Martin's cloak ; (16th),
GLASGOW
see had about this time extended so greatly that a new
officer was appointed as keeper of the church vestments
and furniture treasured within the " Gemma doors " en-
tering the choir.' Cameron died on Christmas Eve
1446 at Lochwood, a rural retreat belonging to the
bishops in the parish of Old Monkland, about six miles
eastward of Glasgow. A number of the older writers
hint that his magnificence was carried out by money
extorted in cruel fashion from his people. Pitscottie's
opinion of him has been already referred to, and
Buchanan and Spottiswoode both speak of his death as
fearful. Pitscottie describes minutely, how, ' on Yule-
even, when he was sleeping, there came a thunder and
a voice out of heaven crying "and summoning him to
the extreme judgment of God, where he should give
an account and reckoning of all his cruel offences with-
out further delay." Through this he wakened forth of
his sleep, and took fear of the novelty of such things
unknown to him before ; but yet he believed this to be
no other but a dream, and no true warning for amend-
ment of his cursed life ; yet he called for his chamber-
chiels, and caused them to light candles and to remain
a while beside him till he recovered the fear and
dreadour that he had taken in his sleep and dreaming.
But by he had taken a book and read a little while the
same voice and words were heard with no less fear and
dreadour than was before, which made them that were
present at that time about him to be in dread, so that
none of them had a word to speak to another, think-
ing no less than sudden mischief hastily to befal them
all ; and, from hand, the third time, the same words
were more ugsomely cried than before. This bishop
rendered his spirit hastily at the pleasure of God, and
ut his tongue most wildly as he had been hanged
shot
upon a gallows. A terrible sight to all cruel oppressors
To Cameron succeeded William Turnbull, archdeacon
Andrews and keeper of the
will
founder of the University of Glasgow. King James II.
seems to have been the prime mover in the matter, and
at his instigation a bull was obtained from Pope Nicholas
V. in 1450, erecting a university at Glasgow after the
model of the university at Bologna, ' Glasgow being a
place well suited and adapted to that purpose on account
of the healthiness of the climate, the abundance of
victuals, and of every thing necessary for the use of
man.' The university was opened for teaching in 1451,
and on 20 April 1453 James himself granted a charter
excepting all connected with the university save the
bishop, ' from all tributes, services, exactions, taxations,
collections, watchings, wardings, and all dues whatever.'
Acting on this Bishop Turnbull granted to the members
of the university the privilege of trading within the city
without payment of customs, and also the power of juris-
diction in all but very important matters, a power
which was claimed and exercised even in serious cases
down to the beginning of the 18th century. Passing the
episcopate of Muirhead, Laing, and Carmichael, impor-
tant changes took place in the time of Bishop Robert
Blackadder, who was consecrated in 1484. In 1488, by
the exertions of the king, a bull was obtained from Pope
Alexander VI., erecting the see of Glasgow into an arch-
iiishnprie, and the erection was confirmed by Act of
Parliament. Its suffragans were the Bishops of Dun-
keld, Dunblane, Galloway, and Argyll. James IV.,
whose piety in early youth took an enthusiastic turn,
had become a canon of the chapter of Glasgow, and loved
to show favour to the cathedral of which he was a
member. In the first year of his reign it was ' concludit
and ordainit be our soverane lord and his three estatis
that for the honour and public gud of the realme the
sege of Glasgow be erecit in ane Archbishoprick with sic
previlegis as accordis of law and siclick as the Arch-
bishoprick of York has in all dignities, emunities, and
previlegis,' and besides, ' the king renewed and extended
the privileges and exemptions and much valued civil
jurisdiction of the bishop, with expressions that show
both his attach
102
nt to Gl
p, with expressi
lasgow, and the
GLASGOW
of that high character of its chapter, which afterwards
drew to the archbishop's court of Glasgow a great
proportion of civil business.' Blackadder was the last
of the prelates who lent a kindly hand to the extension
and adornment of the cathedral, which had now been
more than 370 years in existence since its fouuittion bv
Bishop John. 'He founded,' says M'Ure, 'several
altarages in the choir, and caused place his arms above
them in the roof of the lower area, illuminate in
a small escutcheon, three cinquefoils on a bend with-
out either a mytre or a crosier, and above it in largo
capital letters llobertus Archiqnscopus. He raised the
ascents on each side of the church by steps from the
nave to the floor of fine work, with effigies, as I take it,
of the apostles, neatly engraved ; and in the descent,
on both sides, you will see the archbishop's arms, in
several places at large, with his mytre and other ponti-
ficalia with the initials of his name. He likewise
founded the great isle to the south of the church, of curi-
ous work, corresponding to the other parts of this most
magnificent structure.' Though this southern aisle,
known as Blackadder's crypt, remains unfinished, enough
has been done to show the rudiments of a beautiful
design. He is also believed to have erected the organ
screen. According to Leslie the archbishop undertook
a pilgrimage to the Holy Sepulchre in his old age, and
died on 28 July 1508 when almost in sight of the
Syrian shore.
Blackadderwas succeeded by James Beaton, who in 1524
was translated to St Andrews, and was followed by Gavin
Dunbar, tutor to King James V. , who was consecrated in
1525. The spread of new doctrines had begun to show
itself in Blackadder's time, for we find that, in 1503,
thirty persons from the districts of Kyle and Cunning-
hame were tried in the chapter-house of the cathedral
on a charge of heresy, but were dismissed, 'with an
admonition to take heed of new doctrines, and content
themselves with the faith of the Church.' By the time
of Dunbar, however, matters had gone farther, and the
infallibility of the Church, the purity of the Romish
faith, and the morals and precepts of the clergy began
to be freely and boldly questioned. In the attempt to
suppress these doctrines which caused the clergy to
tremble, many pious persons suffered death at St
Andrews and Edinburgh ; and to such an extent had
such heresies spread in the West then, as ever after,
a stronghold of the reformed doctrine that it was at
last deemed necessary to make an example in Glasgow,
in order to intimidate the heretics, but the very means
which were intended to crush the Reformation, namely,
the martyrdom of Russel and Kennedy, greatly aided its
progress in the West of Scotland. Dunbar, a man of
kindly disposition and of sufficient good sense to know
that the spirit of inquiry was not to be stilled, nor con-
scientious belief changed, by lacerating the flesh, recom-
mended moderate measures ; but the high powers of the
Church thought otherwise, and accordingly, in 1538, a
deputation, consisting of John Lawder, Andrew Oliphant,
and Friar ilaltman, was sent from Edinburgh to Glasgow
to stimulate the archbishop, and assist in crushing the
advancing Reformation by the help of stake and faggot.
The victims were Jerom Russel, said to have been one of
the Grey Friars in Glasgow, and noted for his learning
and talent ; and John Kennedy, a young man from Ayr,
not more than 18 years of age. After a mock trial in
which ' Mr Russel reasoned long, and learnedly confuted
his accusers,' they were handed over much against tho
will of Dunbar, who affirmed ' that these rigorous pro-
ceedings did hurt the cause of the Church more than in
his opinion could be well thought of to the secular
power for execution, and suffered martyrdom at a stake
which had been erected near the E end of the cathedral.
These were the only martyrs who suffered at Glasgow
during the progress of the Reformation. Though gentle
in spirit, Dunbar seems yet to have been tinctured witli
some of the bigotry of his order, for, when in March
1542 Lord Maxwell brought into the Scottish Parliament
a bill for the purpose of authorising the reading of tho
Bible in the vulgar tongue, he led the opposition, and
when to the credit of the legislature the bill passed ho
protested ' for himself aud in name and behalf of all ye
prelatis of yis realme,' and ' dissassentit thereto simple ;
and opponit yame yairto unto ye tyme yat ane provin-
ciall counsell myt be had of all ye elerge of yis realme,
to avyss and conclude yairupon.' He died in 1547, and
was buried in the choir of the cathedral in a stately tomb
which he had caused to be built for himself, but which
was entirely swept away when the Reformers obtained
the mastery, and when the cathedral itself so narrowly
escaped the fate of the other beautiful ecclesiaMintl
structures, which for ages had adorned the kingdom.
' In the midst of the civil and ecclesiastical turmoil
that then disturbed the kingdom, it was some time be-
fore the vacant office of archbishop was filled up, but at
last James Beaton, nephew of the cardinal, was conse-
crated at Rome in 1541. With this prelate came the
crisis and the close. He was the last of the long line of
spiritual princes who had held sway in Glasgow for so
many centuries. The Reformation had now acquired
an irresistible momentum, of which the archbishop
speedily became fully conscious. He accordingly re-
moved into the castle or palace all the portable valuables
which the church contained, and summoned around
him the gentlemen of the neighbourhood still attached
to the old doctrines, who, by means of their servants
and adherents, guarded the church and palace from any
sudden onslaught on the part of the Reformers. As
the Lennox family, who had long been strong supporters
of the diocese, had gone over to the Protestants, he
entered into an agreement in 1558 with 'James duke
of Chatelrault, erle of Arran, lord Hamiltoune ' to de-
fend him and all the cathedral possessions ' againis
quhatsomever person or personis within yis realme, ex-
cept ye queans grace, prince or Kingis grace,' which bond
the Duke did not long keep, for in the following year he
passed over to the side of the Reformers, and not only
caused 'all the images, altars, and relics within the
church to be destroyed, but he also attacked and took
possession of the palace of the archbishop, from which
he was with difficulty expelled by a body of the Queen-
Regent's French troops. It is believed that at this
time the leaden roofing was stripped from the cathedral.'
The defection of the Duke of Chatelherault seems to have
nvinced Beaton that further struggle was hopeless,
and he quietly retired from the contest, and passed into
France in 1560 escorted by some troops of that nation,
probably those who had assisted in the expulsion of
the Duke. The archbishop carried with him all the
treasures and costly ornaments, chalices, and images of
gold and silver, including the relics and their cases
formerly mentioned, and what is of much greater im-
portance, from a modern point of view, he also carried
away all the valuable records of the see from the earliest
period to his own time. These he deposited partly in
the archives of the Scots College, and partly in the
Chartreuse at Paris, where, at the time of the French
Revolution, they were, along with other valuable MSS.,
saved by the patriotic exertions of AbbfS Macpherson,
one of the members of the college, and transmitted to
Scotland. In 1843 they were arranged and printed
under the superintendence of Mr Cosmo Innes, for
the Bannatyne Club, at the expense of the late Mr
Ewing of Strathleven. Long previous, however, to
that date authenticated and notarial transcripts of the
chartulary and other documents had been procured by
the University of Glasgow (in 1738 and subsequent
years) ; and the Magistrates of Glasgow, in 1739, ob-
tained authenticated copies of the writs that were
considered of most importance to the city. When
the archbishop settled in France he was constituted
ambassador to that court from his sovereign the unfor-
tunate Mary, whom he served with unshaken fidelity
throughout her chequered career and till her death
at Fotheringay. Her son, James VI., respecting his
fidelity, employed him and obtained for him, by special
act of parliament in 1600, the restoration of the tem-
poralities of the see which he had abandoned, 'notwith-
standing,' as the act says, ' that he hes never maid con-
GLASGOW
fession of his faith, and lies never acknowledge! t the re-
ligion profest within this realme.' His closing days
were, therefore, affluent and easy, and he died on 21
April 1603, at the advanced age of 86. By his will he
ordained that the archives and relics of the cathedral,
which he had carried away, should be restored to
Glasgow so soon as the inhabitants should return to the
communion of the Church of Rome ' Which,' says
M'Ure, ' I hope in God shall never he, but that His
Church is so established here that neither the gates of
Rome or hell shall ever be able to prevail against it.'
In its prime the see of Glasgow was endowed with
magnificent temporal possessions which fully warranted
its title of the ' Spiritual Dukedom,' and at its final
overthrow it may be fairly assumed that the anticipated
scramble for the fair domains of the ancient church
quickened the conversion of many of the Scottish nobles
to the doctrines of the Reformation. The archbishops
held the lordships of the royalty and baronies of Glas-
gow, and, besides, of 18 baronies of lands within the
sheriffdoms of Lanark, Dumbarton, Ayr, Renfrew,
Peebles, Selkirk, Roxburgh, Dumfries, and the stewartry
of Kirkcudbright. 'It is impossible,' says Cosmo
Innes, ' for a student of ecclesiastical antiquities not to
look back with fond regret to the lordly and ruined
church which we have traced from its cradle to its
grave, not stopping to question its doctrines, and throw-
ing into a friendly shade its errors of practice. And
yet if we consider it more deeply we may be satisfied that
the gorgeous fabric fell not till it had completed its work
and was no longer useful. Institutions, like mortal
bodies, die, and are reproduced. Nations pass away,
and the worthy live again in their colonies.
In this view it was not unworthy of that splendid
hierarchy, which arose out of the humble family of St
Iventigern, to have given life and vigour to such a city
as Glasgow, and a school of learning like her Univer-
sity.'
During the alternate rule of Episcopacy and Presby-
terianism there were 15 Protestant archbishops, but,
compared with their predecessors, they are by no means
important. They and their doctrines were alien to the
genius of the people among whom they were placed, and
though some of them, like the amiable and virtuous
Leigh ton (1670-74), were able and excellentmen, others
(numbered among the ' Tulchans ') 'were the mere
nominees of noble lay patrons, with whom, by a
Simoniacal arrangement, they divided the temporalities
of the see. None of them did anything to extend or
beautify the cathedral which had so happily and mira-
culously survived the storms of the Reformation. Pos-
siblv little blame is attachable to the Protestant prelates
for this seeming remissness. Their means were limited,
and they might foresee that the decorations put up
during an episcopalian reign would be shorn oif when
the Presbyterians came to rule the house. . . . Only
two of the prelates put their hands to the fabric of the
cathedral. Archbishop Spottiswood, the eminent church
historian, commenced to renew the roof which had been
stripped of its lead during the Reformation troubles,
and had only been imperfectly repaired afterwards, and
this work was completed after Spottiswood's translation
to the Primacy of St Andrews in 1615.'
During the civil and religious troubles of the time of
Queen Mary and the early years of King James VI.,
Glasgow was concerned in some of the numerous con-
ilicts that were then so common all over the country.
The most important were the ' Battle of the Butts ' and
the Battle of Langside. During the minority of Queen
Mary, James Hamilton, Earl of Arran, then heir-pre-
sumptive to the throne, and the ancestor of the ducal
house of Hamilton, was appointed regent of the kingdom,
but his appointment was strongly repugnant to the Earl
of Lennox and the Queen-Dowager, and the hostile feel-
ing at last became so strong that both parties resorted to
arms. In 1544 Lennox garrisoned the bishop's palace
in Glasgow, and retired himself to the stronghold of
Dumbarton, and the Regent, having gathered together a
numerous army at Stirling, marched to Glasgow and be-
sieged the palace or castle with the aid of cannon.
After the siege had lasted for ten days, the garrison
agreed to surrender on condition of receiving quarter ;
but no sooner had they laid down their arms than all
were massacred, with the exception of two only who es-
caped. Lennox determined to revenge this treachery
and their loss by striking a desperate blow, and, having
associated with himself the Earl of Glencairn, at first
determined to march into Clydesdale, and there desolate
the lands of the Hamiltons by fire and sword. The
Regent, however, was timeously apprised of the scheme,
and resolved to counteract it by taking possession of
Glasgow. Glencairn was, however, beforehand with
him, and when Arran approached, the other had his
forces already drawn out, amounting to 800 men, partly
composed of his own vassals, and partly of the citizens
of Glasgow. The armies met at the ' Butts,' the place
where the ' weaponshaw ' exercises were held, and now
the site of the old infantry barracks. The onset of
Glencairn was so furious that he beat back the first rank
upon the second and captured the Regent's cannon, but,
in the heat of the battle, while victory yet wavered,
Robert Boyd, of the Kilmarnock family, suddenly
arrived with a small party of horse and turned the
scale in Hamilton's favour, for Glencairn's men, think-
ing that a new army had come against them, fled
with great precipitation. Considering the comparatively
small numbers engaged on both sides, the conflict must
have been unusually sanguinary, for it is recorded that
300 men were slain or wounded on both sides, one of
Glencairn's sons being among the slain. ' The Regent
immediately entered the city, and in revenge for the
part the citizens had acted, gave the place up to plunder ;
and so completely was it harried that the very doors
and windows of many dwelling-houses were carried away,
in fact they only spared the city in so far as they did
not commit it to the flames.'
Glasgow is also closely connected with the decisive
event of the times the Battle of Langside, 13 May
1568 which, though it 'lasted but for three-fourths
of an hour,' and was, from 'the number engaged and
the nature of the contest,' more of the character of a
skirmish than anything else, was yet, from the con-
ditions under which it was fought, of a most decisive
character, settling the fate of Scotland, affecting the
future of England, and exerting an influence all over
Europe. The Regent Murray was holding a court of
Glasgow in the city when the startling intelligence
reached him of the Queen's escape from LOCIILEVEN and
of the assembling of her friends at Hamilton. ' The
news whereof being brought to Glasgow (which is only
8 miles distant), it was scarce at first believed ; but
within two hours or less, being assured, a strong altera-
tion might have been observed in the minds of those
who were attending. The reports of the Queen's forces
made divers slide away ; others sent quietly to beg
pardon for what they had done, resolving not to enter
in the cause farther, but to govern themselves as the
event should lead and direct them ; and there were not
a few who made open desertion, and not of the meaner
sort, amongst whom my Lord Boyd was specially noted,
and in the mouths of all men ; for that being very in-
ward with the Regent, and admitted to his most secret
counsels, when he saw matters like to turn he withdrew
himself and went to the Queen.' Though Murray was
surprised by the rapid and unexpected course of events,
which had not only rescued Mary from a prison but
placed her at the head of an army, he was not dis-
mayed ; and having gained a breathing time by listen-
ing to overtures of accommodation from the Queen's
party, he in the meantime sent word to his own friends
and those of the J'oung King, and was joined by the
Earls of Glencairn, Montrose, Mar, and Monteith, the
Lords Semple, Home, and Lindsay, by Kirkaldy of
Grange, a soldier of great ability and skill, and many
other gentlemen, in addition to a largo body of the
citizens of Glasgow, which placed him at the head of an
army of upwards of 4000 men. With this force he
encamped on the Burgh Muir (which extended along
GLASGOW
the E from the Green by Borrowfield towards the cathe-
dral), and there awaited the approach of the Queen's
forces, as it was believed that her followers intended to
place her Majesty in safety in the strong fortress of
Dumbarton, which was then held by Lord Fleming.
This was her own desire, as, once there, she hoped ' to
regain by degrees her influence over her nobility and
her people.' Murray was thus in a favourable position
for intercepting the Queen's troops had they proceeded
towards Dumbarton by the N bank of the Clyde ; but
news came that the royalists were marching W by the
S bank of the river, intending to cross at Renfrew,
and so reach the castle. Both sides were keenly
alive to the importance of occupying Langside Hill,
an eminence H mile S of Glasgow, and directly on
the line of Mary's march from Rutherglen ; but while
Murray promptly moved forward, his cavalry being
sent across the Clyde by a ford (each horseman with
foot soldier behind him), and his infantry following
delayed by
nfident in their numbers, pressed
xhausted by the time they reached the
but litt
by the bridge, the Queen's forces weri
illness of their chief commander, the Earl'of Ar'gyll ;
and when, therefore, they reached Langside, they found
it already occupied by the Regent's cavalry and the
hagbutters they had carried with them, who, disposed
among the houses and along the hedges, poured a heavy
fire into the Queen's troops as they advanced. The
vangu
on, bu
top of the hill, and so but little fit to cope "with Murray's
first line which there awaited them, and which was com-
posed of excellent pikemen. Notwithstanding this, the
fighting was severe, ' and Sir James Melvil [of Halhill,
who was present, and from whose account of the battlo
all subsequent accounts have been derived] describes
the long pikes as so closely crossed and interlaced, that
when the soldiers behind discharged their pistols, and
threw them or the staves of their shattered weapons in
the faces of their enemies, they never reached the ground,
but remained lying on the spears.' The battle was
wavering, and Murray's right wing beginning to give
way, when Kirkaldy at the critical moment brought up
the reserves, and such was the impetuosity of the new
attack that the Queen's forces gave way, and the flight
immediately became general. Three hundred of her
followers perished, while the Regent's loss is set down
as one man. On seeing the rout of her army, Mary,
who had been watching the conflict from a hill near
Cathcart House, about li mile in the rear, fled in such
a state of terror that she never stopped till she reached
Sanquhar, 60 miles from the field of battle, thenc
on to TEUKEOLES, and thence crossing ove
The Regent ' returned in great pomp to the" city,
where, after going to church and thanking Almighty
God in a solemn manner for the victory, he was enter-
tained by the magistrates and a great many of the town
council very splendidly, suitable to his quality, at
which time the Regent expressed himself very affec-
tionately towards the city and citizens of Glasgow ; and
for their kind offices and assistance done to him and his
army, he promised to grant to the magistrates or any
incorporation in the city any favour they should rea-
sonably demand.' Several requests were in consequence
made and granted to the incorporations. The deacon
of the incorporation of bakers was at the time Matthew
Fauside, and he, being ' a very judicious and projecting
man, who had an extraordinary concern for the good
and advancement of the incorporations,' took occasion
to say that, as the mills at Partick, which were formerly
the property of the archbishop, now belonged to the
crown, and the tacksman exacted such exorbitant mul-
tures that it raised the price of bread to the community,
a grant of these mills to the corporation would be re-
garded as a public benefit ; and, moreover, the bakers
were not altogether undeserving of favour in another
respect, as they had liberally supplied the army with
bread while it remained in the neighbourhood of Glas-
gow. Fauside's well-timed address had the desired
effect, and the five flour-mills at Partick, on the banks
of the Kelvin, are possessed by the incorporation of
GLASGOW
bakers till tins tlay. The citizens have, however, never
been able to discover that in virtue of this gift bread is
to be had cheaper in Glasgow than elsewhere.
In May 1570 the Hamiltons, with others of the
Queen's supporters, had again mustered sufficient force
to attack the castle or bishop's palace at Glasgow, which
was now held for the Earl of Lennox, who had become
Regent after the murder of Murray at Linlithgow by
Hamilton of Bothwellhaugh. They first attempted a
surprise, and when that failed they opened lire with
cannon to make a breach, so that the position might be
stormed. The garrison, though it numbered only
twenty-four, and had no head, as the governor was
absent, held out so bravely, however, that the be-
siegers failed, and, after losing a number of men, were
forced to retire. Probably they had not much heart
left, and they may besides have been alarmed by the
approach of the troops sent to avenge the murder of
Murray on the Hamiltons. These, under Lennox and
Sir William Drury, reached Glasgow two or three days
after the attack, and says Tytler, ' commenced a pitiless
devastation of Clydesdale and Linlithgowshire, razing
their [the Harailtons'] castles, destroying their villages,
and making a desert of the whole territory.' Hamilton
Palace, Linlithgow and Kinneil Castles, and the estates
and houses of the Duke's kindred, were completely
wasted. 'In these days,' says Pagan, 'the citizens of
Glasgow looked upon the castigation of the Hamiltons
with no small satisfaction, for they had not forgotten
the grievous ills which the town had suffered from their
party at the Battle of the " Butts," and the remembrance
of their slaughtered kinsmen and plundered homes nerved
many a stout arm against the party of the Hamiltons
and the Queen at the field of Langside.'
Up to the Reformation the progress and prosperity of
Glasgow had been solely dependent on the progress
and power of the see, and, no doubt, to some extent on
the personal character of its ecclesiastical head for the
time being, and as the overthrow of the Roman Catholic
system thus forms a great break in the history of the
city, it may be well here to depart from strict chrono-
logical order and go back and trace the development
of the place in its proper municipal aspect. Mention
has been already made of the privileges granted to
Glasgow when it was constituted a burgh of barony by
William the Lyon in or about 1180, and in 1242 another
advance was made, and the burgesses and men of the
bishop became as free to trade in Lennox and Argyll as
the men of Dumbarton. In 1450, in the time of Bishop
Turnbull, James II. granted a charter raising the burgh
to one of regality, with all the increased privileges thereto
belonging. In return for this grant, the bishop and his
re to give ' a red rose upon the Feast of
the Nativity of the Blessed John the Baptist at Glasgo
in name of Blanchfarm, if asked only, and the assistance
of their prayers. ' The bishop was permitted to appoint
a sergeant for making arrestments and executing the
edicts of his court, and this officer was to bear a silver
staff having the royal arms blazoned on the upper end,
and the arms of the bishop at the other. Previous to the
regality privileges, and the foundation of the univer-
lity, the village of ' Deschu ' had grown so that it reached
from the cathedral on the N to the Blackfriars' monas-
tery on the S, and from Drygate on the E to near the
site of the modern Balmano Street on the W, but the
two changes just mentioned soon brought considerable
increase in size to the place, as the accommodation was
insufficient for the 200 students who soon gathered, and
also for the growing numbers who flocked into it in
order to engage in trade. One extension, therefore,
took place southward from the Blackfriars' monastery
to the cross along the line of High Street, and another
eastward over the Gallow Muir in the line of the Gallow-
gate, while, to the W, streets were extended as far as
the Tron. The town was not walled, but it had ports
at the ends of the principal streets. These seem to have
been shifted from time to time. The Stable Green Port
was near the castle, and on the opposite side was the
Castle Port, the site of which is now occupied by part
of the Barony Church. There was a port 'between
the Gyrtheburn and the street called the Dregate,' a
port known as the Subdean Port, and there was also
one at the E end of the Drygate, one at the Gallowgate,
one at the foot of the Saltmarket, and others elsewhere
at later dates. Of the bishop's palace or castle which
stood near the Stable Green Port, not far from the western
entrance to the cathedral, no trace now remains. The
original castle was very old, for it is mentioned in 1290,
and it seems to have been extended and strengthened
from time to time. Bishop Cameron is said to have
added a tower to, and otherwise improved, it. Arch-
bishop Beaton strengthened it with a stone wall, with
a bastion at one angle, and a tower with battlements on
the angle facing High Kirk Street. In 1515 it must have
been a place of importance, for it seems to have been
the depot for the King's cannon. When Arran and
others broke out in rebellion against Albany's rule, it
was stormed and plundered by Mure of Caldwell, but
Albany compelled him to give it up. In 1554 Archbishop
Dunbar added a stately and handsome gatehouse and an
arched gateway with his arms on it. In 1570 the castle
again underwent a siege as is told elsewhere, and after
this under the poor Protestant archbishops it seems to
have begun to fall into decay. It was partially restored
in 1611 by Archbishop Spottiswoode, but Sir William
Brereton, who was there in 1634, describes it as a ' poor
and mean place,' while, on the other hand, Ray, whose
notions were probably not so high-flown, says it was ' a
goodly building. ' It must, however, have been ruinous,
for Merer, in his Short Account of Scotland (1689), speaks
of it as ' formerly without doubt a very magniticent
structure, but now in ruins. ' In 1720, Robert Thomson,
a merchant in Glasgow, represented to the Barons of
the Exchequer that ' bad men ' were carrying oft' stones,
timber, etc. , from the ruins, but no action seems to have
been taken, and a drawing of it, made about 1750, shows
part of it in a very ruinous condition. The magistrates
themselves showed their barbarity, for when the Sara-
cen's Head Inn was erected in the Gallowgate in 1755,
they allowed the contractor to take stones from the
archbishop's castle. In 1778 part of it was again re-
moved to widen Castle Street, but, judging i'rom a
drawing made in 1783, the fine square tower was almost
entire. The crowning act of Vandalism of the long
series was committed in 1792, when the last of the re-
mains of it were cleared away to make room lor the
foundations of the Royal Infirmary.
To the N, on the burgh muir at the modern St Rollox,
was a little chapel dedicated to St Roche the Confessor.
It was founded about 1508 by Thomas Muirhead, one of
the canons of Glasgow. The burying-ground which
surrounded it was, during a pestilence in 1647, used for
the reception of the infected poor, who were placed
there in wooden huts. The houses of the canons were
about the cathedral from the Stable Green Port round
by the Molendinar, High Kirk Street, the Drygate,
Rottenrow, and Balmano Street. The Drygate con-
tained the mint, which seems to have dated at least
from the time of Alexander II., for coins of his struck
here exist, and M'Ure describes some coins of Robert
III. struck here as having a representation of the King
crowned, but without a sceptre, with the motto Eobertus
Dei Gratia Bex Scotorum, and, on the other, on an inner
circle, Villa de Glasgow, and on an outer Dominus
Protector. The site is now occupied by part of Duko
Street Prison. Not far from Stable Green, on the W
side of Castle Street, stood St Nicholas' Hospital, which
was founded by Bishop Muirhead about 1460, and which
was pulled down in 1808. Originally it was endowed
for twelve indigent old men, and a priest to perform
divine service at the canonical hours, and Archbishop
Leighton subsequently, in 1677, bequeathed 150 fo
its further endowment. In Brown's History of Git
in 1795, the chapel of the hospital is
existing, but in ruins, and converted into a cow-house !
Farther N was the Back Almshouse, erected by Roland
Blackadder, subdean of Glasgow, as a sort of casual
ward, which seems to have been afterwards united to
105
GLASGOW
St Nicholas* Hospital. In 1590 John Painter, master
of the Sang school, left 3 to the twelve poor men in
St Nicholas' Hospital, and 20s. to the four poor men in
the Back Almshouse. Of the revenues of these, only
380 of capital, and 15 per annum from grain and
ground rents, now remain to be administered by tha
magistrates and town council.
The Cross stood at the junction of Rottenrow, Dry-
street
the junction of &
gate, and High Street. In the latter si
buildings and church of Blackfriars 1 Monastery, the
seminary of the canons regular, and a small building
belonging to the Grey Friars. The new cross was at
the junction of High Street and the Gallowgate beyond
the Saltmarket Port. There was a road by the Saltmarkct
(the Fuller's Gate) and Bridgegate to Bishop Kae's
bridge, near which, at the lower end of the present
Stockwell Street, were a number of fishermen's huts.
These were called the Fishergate. The modern name is
taken from a well in the district called the Stok Well,
which is mentioned in 1478. On the other side of the
river was the leper hospital already mentioned. Part
of Glasgow Green was covered with wood, and known as
the Bishop's Forest. It is difficult to arrive at any idea
of the population of the city at this time. The presence
of the plague twice within the preceding century would
tend probably somewhat to diminish it, but, allowing
for this, an estimate has been made that it might
number about 2000, of which from two to three hundred
would be connected with the University. Fish seem to
have been exported, and the name Fuller's Gate points
at the manufacture of cloth, but the trade was still so
small that, practically, by far the greater part of the in-
habitants were dependent on church and churchmen for
their means of making a living. In the time interven-
ing between this and the Reformation the burgh of
regality had gone on thriving notwithstanding temporary
drawbacks. Mr Micgeorge estimates the population in
the middle of the 16th century as about 4500, which
.shows that the place was still growing, but all on the
lines already laid down, and, no doubt, in a great part
along further extensions of those main streets. It still
had no more than the one principal street and the five
or six lesser ones. High Street, occupying in the main
the same line as it did till recent years, stretched in an
irregular line downwards to the Cross from whence it
was continued by the Waulker or Fuller's Gate (now
the Saltmarket) to the Bridgegate. From the Market
Cross the Gallowgate, opened early in the 14th cen-
tury, went E, and the Trongate (both now more
closely built than in 1450) went W. On the N side
of the Gallowgate stood the church or chapel of St
Mungo's-in-the-Ficld or Little St Mungo's, built and
dowed about 1500 by David Cunningham, prov
the collegiate church of Hamilton. It was surrounded
, provost of
ge through the intermediate stage of St Tennoch's.
ell and chapel were near the site of the pres
by a cemetery all traces of which have long vanished,
although the site is still known and close by it stood
certain trees bearing the name of St Mungo. The Tron-
gate was then better known by its original name of St
Thenew's Gate. It got this title from its leading to the
well and chapel of St Tanew or Thenewfthe mother of
St Mungo) which stood in the region outside the West
Port, now occupied by St Enoch's Square, the name
Enoch being merely a corruption of the older one, afte
a passage '
Both
church.
The chapel marked the spot where Thenew was
supposed to have been buried, and contained her tomb.
In Oct. 1475 James III., by a charter, granted to the
cathedral church of Glasgow half a stone of wax from
the lands of ' Odingstoune ' in the lordship of Bothwell
for lights to be burned at the tomb of 'St Tenew' in the
chapel where her bones are buried. The chapel was
entire in 1597, and some traces of it remained in the
beginning of last century. The name of Trongate was
just beginning to come into use, the term being derived
from the ' trone ' or weighing-machine having been
erected in it near the end of the 15th century. The first
public mention of it is in a deed of seisin of 30 May
106
GLASGOW
1545, where a tenement is described as being in Mo
Troyne Gait.' On the S side of the Trongate stood the
collegiate church of the blessed Virgin Mary and St
Ann, founded prior to 1528 by James Houston, sub-
dean of Glasgow. Round it there was a large burying-
ground, which, after the Reformation, was used as a
market for grass and straw. No memorial of the old
building (upon the site of which the Tron Church now
stands) has been preserved, and the burying-ground has
long since been built over, the property which was held
in trust by the Corporation having been parted with in
1588 in a time of need. To the W of the collegiate
church was the Song School, which was taught by one
of the prebendaries of the church, who was required to
be a good organist, and capable of training the youth
' in plain song and descant.' The church lay empty and
unused for a long time after the Reformation, but about
1592 it began to be resorted to as a place of Presbyterian
worship, and continued to be used as such with the
status of a parish church till 1793, when it was
destroyed by fire. In the Trongate stood also two other
chapels, one called our Lady Chapel, on the N side of
the street, not far from the Cross, founded as early as
the year 1293 ; the other dedicated to St Thomas-a.
Becket, which seems to have been endowed in 1320 by
Sir Walter Fitz Gilbert, the progenitor of the Hamiltons.
Except, then, for its ecclesiastical connection, Glasgow
was as yet a place of no very great importance ; and
indeed, in the taxation of royal burghs in the time of
Queen Mary, it is rated only as the eleventh ; but the
successful outcome of the Reformation, by depriving the
citizens of their former great mainstay, turned their
industry into the new, permanent, and more profitable
channels that were to lead to future greatness.
The first outlook, however, was far from promising,
for the loss of the clergy and of the university students
and the confusion of the times brought ruin and suffer-
ing to many in Glasgow, especially of the middle and
lower classes, and caused much distress. The burgh
records for 1563 state that 'there was a grit dearth
approaching to a famine,' and that all the necessaries of
life were more than treble their ordinary value. The
magistrates tried to regulate prices and weights, but
probably they were not very successful. In 1576 a
humble supplication was presented to the King and par-
liament by the freemen and other indwellers of the city
of Glasgow above the Greyfriars' Wynd thereof, and
makes mention that ' whereas that part of the said city
that afore the Reformation of the religion was enter-
tained and upholden by the resort of the bishops,
pastors, and others of the clergy for the time, is now be-
coming ruinous, and for the maist part altogether
decayit, and the heritors and possessors thereof greatly
depauperit, wanting the means not only to uphold the
same, but for theentcrtainmentof themselves, their wyflis,
bairnies, and families. . . . And seeing that part
of the said city above the Greyfriars' Wynd is the only
ornament and decoration thereof, by reason of the great
and sumptuous buildings of great antiquity very proper
and meet for the receipt of his highness and nobility at
such times as they shall repair thereto,' and so on, and
generally claiming some amelioration of their condition.
Commissioners were accordingly appointed to take mea-
sures for the relief of their necessity, and as one of the
complaints had been that there was 'ane great confusion
and multitude of markets togidder in ane place about
the croce,' they ordered the markets to be removed far-
ther up the street for the benefit of the petitioners.
There is no reason to believe that the shifting of the
markets compensated for the banishment of the Roman
Catholic clergy, and the desired amelioration took place
only when the inhabitants, learning to rely on them-
selves, began to direct their industry into new channels.
It is indeed somewhat remarkable to find that, even thus
early, and while the place was still so poor and so
limited, Glasgow began to possess the germs of commer-
cial eminence in so far as it was not destitute of ship-
ping, for there is an order of the Privy Council to the
effect that vessels belonging to Glasgow should not
GLASGOW
annoy those belonging to Henry VIII., the Qnecn's
grand-uncle.
Subsequent to the Reformation the glimpses of the
social and moral condition of the people, which pre-
viously were drawn mostly from the archives of the see,
come to be taken from the records of the presbytery,
kirk-session, and town council, and the picture they
present is certainly very curious, though fresh and
truthful. There is no doubt that, notwithstanding I!M>
amount of suffering caused by the change, the citizens
adhered firmly to the doctrines they had embraced with
such cordiality and sincerity, for in 1581 the negative
Confession of Faith, with the National Covenant an-
nexed, was signed at Glasgow by 2250 persons, men as
well as women a total which, considering the probable
number of the population, must have included almost
every one above the condition of childhood. As the old
bishops and archbishops had never been legally divested
of their temporalities, it became necessary to employ a
legal fiction in order to get possession of the revenues ;
and for this purpose the bishops known as the 'Tulchans'
since they were employed merely as dummy calves,
while the court favourites or the great officers of state
milked the benefices were appointed. In 1581 the king
promoted Robert Montgomery, minister at Stirling, to be
Protestant Archbishop of Glasgow, on the understanding
that the larger portion of the temporalities were to be paid
to the Lennox family, an appointment and arrangement
in the highest degree distasteful to the people. It was
resolved to oppose his induction by sending Mr Howie,
one of the Presbyterian preachers, to take prior occupa-
tion of the pulpit of the cathedral. Howie went, but
while he was, on the day set apart for the induction of the
prelate, engaged in the ordinary service of the day, Sir
Matthew Stewart of Minto, provost of the city, deter-
mined to enforce the royal warrant, pulled him out of
the pulpit, and in the course of the struggle a handful
of hair was torn from the minister's beard, some of his
teeth were knocked out, and his blood was shed. This
assault was regarded by the citizens of Glasgow as a
most sacrilegious one ; and as Mr Howie denounced the
judgment of God upon Sir Matthew and his family, it
was remarked that in seventy years this once potent race
had been reduced to impoverished circumstances in the
city in which for many generations they had been lords.
How much of this was due to Mr Howie's curse it is un-
necessary to inquire, but it may be remarked in passing
that this was the first sign of that stubborn opposition
to Episcopacy which the western shires afterwards so
strongly exhibited. Montgomery was forced to resign,
and he afterwards became minister of the parish of
Stewarton, where he died, but his retirement did not
prevent the appointment of other episcopal prelates in
<lue season. The power of the Presbyterian clergy hav-
ing been meantime fairly established, they proceeded to
exercise a system of discipline which now-a-days would
be considered of a very stringent and oppressive charac-
ter, but, considering the superstition and looseness
which marked the former papal rule, there is no doubt
that it was necessary for the regeneration of the people,
especially those of what were termed ' the meaner sort.'
If the sacerdotal power were supreme before the Refor-
mation the Church power, cleric and lay, now became
equally so, and even if possible still more so. There
are cases of Church interference and discipline which
might hardly bo credited had we not the records before
us, and curiously enough we find the general kirk-
session a body appointed in 1572, and possessing a
]>ower as despotic and secret as that of the Venetian
Council so powerful as often to set presbytery and
corporation alike at defiance. In perusing the eccle-
siastical injunctions and sentences, the large number of
cases in which jurisdiction usually belonging to the
civil power was exercised by the Church courts is very
remarkable. In 1582 it was ordered that 'the booth
doors of merchants and traffickers were to be steaked
[shut] on Wednesdays and Fridays in the hour of ser-
mon, and the masters of booths were enjoined to keep
the hour of preaching under the penalty of twenty
GLASGOW
pounds Scots, without a lawful cause admitted by the
session.' On 26 Dec. five persons were appointed to
make repentance, because they kept the superstitious
day called Yuil [Christmas]. ' The baxters [bakers] to
be inquired at, to whom they baked Yuil bread.' In
1587 the session laid down the following tariff in Scots
money to meet cases of immorality :' Servant women,
for a single breach of chastity, twenty pounds for her
relief from cross and steeple ; men servants, thirty
pounds, or else to be put in prison eight days and fed
on bread and water, thereafter to be put in the jugs
[stocks].' As for the richer sort of servants, the fines
were to be exacted at the arbitrament of the Kirk.
daughters, but they to be punished as the kirk shall
prescribe.' The Kirk could, however, afford to be tender
when it had to deal with a transgressor whose rank was
above the common sort ; for in 1608 the laird of Minto,
a late provost, was in trouble by reason of a breach of
chastity, but it was resolved to pass him over with a
reprimand. Harlots were to be carted through the
town, ducked in the Clyde, and put in the jougs at the
cross on a market-day. The punishment for adultery
was to 'satisfy six Sabbaths on the cuckstool at the
pillar, barefooted and barlegged, in sackcloth, then to
be carted through the town and ducked in the Clyde
from a pulley fixed in the bridge.' The presbytery
enjoined the ministers to be serious in their deportment
and modest in their apparel, ' not
and gaudy toys in their clothes.' The session directed
that the drum should go through the town to intimate
ild. Games"^golf, alley-bowls, etc.
person should go to Rufherglen to see the plays on
either by young or
were forbidden or
.
Sundays, and it
ined that
Sunday. Parents who had children to be baptized were to
repeat the commandments distinctly, the articles of faith,
and the Lord's Prayer, or to be declared ignorant, and
some other godly person present their bairn, with further
punishment as the Church shall see fit. In 1588 the
session intimated to the presbytery that, the latter body
could not hold ' exercise ' in Blackfriars' church on Fri-
day, as it interfered with the regular Friday sermon,
and the presbytery had to yield. The time of assembling
on the Sabbaths of the communion was four o'clock in
the morning, and it must have been rather hard on the
magistrates who had to 'attend the tables,' and keep
order. The collectors assembled on these occasions in
the High Kirk at three o'clock in the morning. On 3
March 1608 the session enacted that there should be no
meetings of women on the Sabbath in time of sermon,
and that no hostler should sell spirits, wine, or ale in
time of sermon, under pain of twenty pounds, and that
there should be no buying of timber on the Sabbath at
the Water of Clyde from sunrise to sunset. In 1588 a
number of ash trees in the High Kirk churchyard were
ordered to be cut down to make forms for the folk to sit
on in the church. Women were not permitted to sit
on these, but were directed to bring stools with them.
It was also intimated that 'no woman, married or un-
married, should come within the kirk door to preachings
or prayers with their plaids about their heads, neither
to lie down in the kirk on their faces in time of prayer,
with certification that their plaids be drawn down, or
they be raised by the beadle.' The beadles were to
have 'staves for keeping quietness in the kirk and
comely order ; ' for each marriage they were to get 4d.,
and for each baptism 2d. On 9 March 1640 the session
intimated that all masters of families should give an
account of those in their families who have not the Ten
Commandments, the Lord's Prayer, Creed, etc., and
that every family should have prayers and psalms
morning and evening ; and some of the fittest men were
appointed to assist the elders in promoting this work.
On 13 July 1643 the kirk-session appointed some of
their number to go through the town on the market-day
to take order with banners, swearers, etc. (till the magis-
trates provide one for that office) ; swearers were to
pay twelve pence, and, along with blasphemers and
raenti
GLASGOW
mockers of piety, were to be, for the second offence, re-
buked at the bench in front of the pulpit ; and for the
third at the pillar, over and above the fine. Swearing
seems to have been hard to eradicate, for it had been
attracting attention from the time of the Eeformation
onward ; and the women were aa bad as, or even worse
than, the men. In 1589 there was a special meeting of
the town council to consider blasphemies and evil words
used by 'sindrie wemen,' and the result was that 'ane
pair joges ' was set up. Morality, too, was still poor ;
for on 5 Aug. 1643 it was found necessary again to
make enactments about offenders against the seventh
commandment, and it was decreed that they should be
imprisoned, and then drawn through the town in a cart
with a paper on their face ; thereafter to stand three
hours in the jougs and be whipped ; and the punish-
" ve been by no means rarely inflicted,
strates and town councillors were no less
the good work of encouraging piety and
purity of morals (to which, indeed, they were often
stirred up by requests, which had all the force of com-
mands, from the kirk-session), in promoting order and
cleanliness in the town (which from the records would
seem to have been mnch in want of improvement), in
practising charity and hospitality now and then, and in
keeping up a martial spirit amongst the people by means
of ' wappon-shaws ' or periodical training in the use of
arms. Some of their decisions are very curious, and,
from a modern point of view, decidedly ultra vires.
One of the most remarkable illustrations of the extent
of their authority is a composition for the slaughter of
one of the burgesses, which is entered on the books of
the burgh as having the 'strength of ane decreit of the
provest and baillies.' In this their authority is inter-
poned to an agreement, by which the widow and repre-
sentatives of a murdered man agree to pass from any
criminal action against the murderer on condition of
his making ' repentance ' within the High church, and
paying the 'sowme of three hundred merkis money in
name of kynbute' or reparation. In 1547 the bailies
and council ordained 'every buythhalder to have in
reddiness within the buyth ane halbert, jak, and steel
bonnet, for eschewing of sick inconvenients as may
happen.' And again, in 1577-78, we find the following :
' Quhilk day it is condescendit be the provest, baillies,
counsale, and dekynes, that the act maid anent the
hagbuttis be renewit ; that every ane substantious and
habill men sail have ane hagbntt with graitht, balder,
and bullet elTeiring thairto ; and that every utheris
nocht beand habill thairfoir sail have ane lang speir, by
[besides] jakkis, stcilbonetis, sword, and bukler.' On
28 Oct. 1588 it is 'statut and ordainit be the baillies
and counsall, in consideratioun of the pest now in
Paislay, that no person, indweller within the town,
because of the markets of Paisley and Kilmacolm ap-
proaching, shall pass furth of the town thereto, tinder
the pain of five pounds, to be taken of every person
repairing thereto, and banished furth of the said town
for a year and a day, without Icif askit and gevin be the
baillies.' On 1 June 1589 the council met to consider
the King's letter, charging this burgh and all others to
arm men to go to the North on his Majesty's service ;
and, considering that his Majesty was then at Hamilton,
directed the three bailies, the treasurer, and a deputa-
tion of the citizens to proceed thither and speak to the
King and the chancellor, with the view that they may
'get ane licent of his grace to abyd fra this present
raid' i.e., to be allowed to abstain from sending men
to form part of the King's army then mustering against
the popish earls in the North. The appeal was, however,
unsuccessful, for at a subsequent meeting of council it
was resolved to send 'fyftie hagbutteris to await on
his Majesties service in the north.' In the same year,
1589, it is ordained that 'na middingis [dunghills] be
laid upon the hiegate, nor in the meil or flesche mer-
cattis. And that na flescheowris teme uschavis [empty
offal] in the said places under the pane of xrj s.' It is
also ordained that ' na breiding of flesche nor blawing
of muttoun be under the pane of xvj s.' The magis-
trates of these times appear to have regulated the price
of commodities, and enactments are made fixing the
price of ale, caudles, and viands, and vivers generally.
Candlemakers are enjoined to sell either pounds or half-
pounds and to sell penny or twopenny candles. On
26 July 1612, 'Matthew Thomesoun, hielandman fiddler,'
is apprehended on suspicion of assaulting ' ane young
damesell, named Jonet M'Quhirrie.' It appears that
the charge was ' denyit be him and hard to be verefeit ; '
but the Dailies did not give the tiddler the benefit of the
insufficiency of evidence, for, 'finding him ane idill
vagabound,' they ordered him to be put in the stocks
until the evening, and thereafter to be put out of the
town at the West Port and banished for ever, and
should he afterwards be found in the town of his own
consent, he was to be 'hangit but [without] ane assyze.'
In the treasurer's accounts for 1609, various queer items
are given under the heads of charity, entertainments,
etc. Sums are paid to sundry persons in the town ' for
vyne desart, sukar, and fruitis, and other expenses made
and wairit upon the Duke of Wirtinbrig and James,
Master of Blantyre, for his welcum furth of Inglind ; '
' to two puir Inglismen at command of the baillies ; '
' pulder and lead,' supplied to the men of war who were
sent to the Isles ; ' to schipbrokin Inglismen, puiro
Polians, Inlandmen ; ' to ' ane pure crippill man that
come out of Paslay ; ' and also to ' ano pure man that
geid on his kneis. ' In 1643 a sum is given for James
Bogle, a burgess' son, to help to pay his ransom, ' being
taken with the Turks. 1 A gift is made to 'Johne
Lyouu's wyf in Greenock, to help to cnt ane bairne of
the stone.' On 21 March 1661, the council agrees to
pay yearly to Evir M'Neil, 'that cuts the stone,' one
hundred merks Scots for cutting ' all the poor for that
frielie.' Various presents of wine and herrings are given
to the town's friends ; and so late as 20 April 1695 the
council ' appoints the treasurer to have allowance in his
hands of two hundreth merks payed out be him as the
price of ane hogsheid of wyne given to a friend of this
tonne, whom it is not fitt to name.'
There are various entries regarding the meeting of the
celebrated General Assembly of 1638 ; and, during the
civil troubles in the reign of Charles I. and subsequently,
' wappon-shaws ' are ordered for the training of the
people in arms, and munitions are purchased, for the
price of which the inhabitants are assessed, and 150
men are ordered to the border ' for the common defence.'
George Porterfield was to be captain, and the Glasgow
men were to march in Lord Montgomery's regiment.
On 25 April 1646, the Treasurer is ordered to ' pay to
Daniel Brown, surgeon, twelve pounds money, for help-
ing and curing certain poor soldiers hurt at Kilsyth, at
command of the late magistrates.' On 18 June 1660,
' aue congratulations ' is kept on account of the happy
return of 'our dread sovereign the Kind's majestic. '
In 1663 the Dean of Guild and convener are ordered to
appoint some of their number as they think convenient
' to taist the seek now cellered be Mr Campsie,' pre-
paratory to the ' toune's denner ' then about to take
place. On 20 June 1674, it was represented to the
council that Mrs Gumming, mistress of manners, was
about to leave the town on account of the small employ-
ment which she had found within it, ' quhilk they fund
to be prejudicial! to this place, and, in particular, to
theis who hes young women to bried therin,' and,
therefore, for the further encouragement of Mrs Gum-
ming, if she will stay, she was to be paid ' one hundred
merks yearly ' so long as she keeps a school and teaches
children as formerly. On 1 Feb. 1690, the council
ordains ' ane proclamation to be sent throw the touno
prohibiting and dischargeing the haill inhabitants and
others residing within this burgh, that they, nor nane
f them, drink in any tavern after ten o'clock at night
n the week days, under the paine of fourtie shillings
Scots to be payed be the furnisher of the drink, and
twentie shillings Scots be the drinker, for each failzio
toties quoties, whereof the one-half to the informer, and
the other to be applied to the use of the poor.' Sabbath
was to be strictly observed. By a minute of the Session,
GLASGOW
on 14 April 1G42, the magistrates and ministers were
directed to search the streets on Sabbath night for per-
sons who absented themselves from church, and, by
another, they were to disperse all jovial companies, even
in private houses, late on Saturday night, and on Sunday
they were to watch the streets during service time, and
compel those who were out to go to church. At a later
date" the Sunday walkers had the choice of going home.
The watchers had the power of arresting offenders, and
' this practice,' says Mr Macgeorge, ' was continued
till so late as the middle of last century, when the
searchers having taken into custody Mr Peter Blackburn,
father of Mr Blackbarn of Killearn, for walking on the
Green one Sunday, he prosecuted the magistrates, and
succeeded in his suit. This caused the practice to be
abandoned.'
The town appears, in early times, to have been sadly
afflicted with a class of diseased unfortunates called
lepers. Reference has been already made to the hospital
erected for them by Lady Lochow, daughter of Robert,
Duke of Albany, and mother of Colin, first Earl of
Argyll, and it is further recorded that on 7 Oct. 1589
there were six lepers in her lepers' house at Gorbals.
In 1610 the council ordained that the lepers of the hos-
pital should go up the causewayside near the gutter,
and should have 'clapperis' in their hands to warn the
people to keep away, and a cloth upon their mouth and
face, and should stand afar off while they received alms,
under the penalty of being banished from the town and
hospital. In 1635 the magistrates purchased from the
Earl of Glencairn the manse of the prebendary of Cam-
buslang, which had been gifted to him after the Refor-
mation, which they fitted up as a house of correction for
dissolute women, and the Kirk Session was cruel enough
to enjoin that the poor creatures there confined should
be ' whipped every day during pleasure. '
Glasgow had its full share of those trials and calamities
which began in the time of Charles I., and only ter-
minated on the accession of William III. One of the
leading events in connection with this period was the
meeting of the General Assembly of the Church of Scot-
land at Glasgow in 1638, an assembly of the very highest
national interest and importance, and which throughout
its meetings exhibited a degree of independence and de-
termination not exceeded by the Long Parliament of
England in the most vigorous period of its existence.
Externally, the Church of Scotland was at this period
regulated by the Episcopal form of Government, but the
mass of the people, and a great majority of the nobility
and gentry, were devoutly attached to the Presbyterian
principles that had been introduced among them by
Knox and the early Reformers. The country tolerated
Episcopacy, but neither acquiesced in it nor loved it.
When the King, Charles I., therefore, in 1637, ordered
a new service book to be used in the Scottish churches,
and a report spread abroad that this book was tinctured
by the mass, the people exclaimed that this was neither
more nor less than an attempt to insinuate Popery
amongst them under the shallow disguise of a Protestant
ritual ; and the long smothered dislike to ' prelacy '
burst forth into a storm of opposition which eventually
became destructive to the whole system, and fatal to the
King. The attempt to introduce Laud's liturgy was
followed by a closer and more hearty bond of union
among the Scottish Presbyterians, who exerted them-
selves towards the calling together of a General Assembly
to consider the state of the Church, and, the King's re-
luctant assent having been obtained, the Assembly was
finally summoned to meet at Glasgow on 21 Nov. 1638.
The service book had already produced commotion in
Glasgow, for, one day in 1637, ' at the outgoing of the
church about thirty or forty of our honestest women
in one voice before the bishop and magistrates fell a
railing, cursing, scolding with clamours on Mr William
Annan ' (who had, before the synod of Glasgow, preached
a sermon in defence of the liturgy), and the same night,
while he was walking in the dark, ' some hundreds
of enraged women of all qualities are about him, with
ncaves, staves, and peats, but [to their credit be it said]
no stones. They beat him sore ; his cloak, ruff, and
hat were rent,' and though he escaped all 'bloody
wounds ' he was in danger of being killed. ' Some two
of the meanest ' of those who had been engaged in the
disturbance in the earlier part of the day were put in
prison, but the other 'tumult was so great that it was
not thought meet to search either the plotters or actors of
it, for numbers of the best quality would have been found
guilty. ' Next day the poor man had the further misfor-
tune to fall with his horse above him in ' very foul miro '
in presence of an angry crowd of women, who, no doubt,
showed their exultation at the accident, so that his ser-
mon cost him a good deal of grief. With the citizens in
a temper like this, and considering the weighty and
vexed questions to be debated, it is not surprising that
the magistrates looked forward to the convocation of
the Assembly with some anxiety. They passed a number
of wholesome regulations, ordaining, among other things,
that ' no inhabitant expect more rent for their houses,
chambers, beds, and stables, than shall be appointed by
the provost, bailies, and council, and ordains the same
to be intimated by sound of drum, that no person may
plead ignorance.' They also purchased muskets with
' stalfsandbandelieris,' pikes, powder, and match, with
which to arm ' ane gaird of men keepit ' to mount guard
day and night while the town was filled with strangers.
The council representative too was ordered not to give
his vote on any important matter without first delibera-
ting with his fellow councillors. The Assembly accord-
ingly met on the day appointed, in the nave of the
cathedral, which had been fitted up for the occasion, the
' vaults ' or narrow galleries above being set apart for
ladies and persons of humble degree, while one was re-
served for young nobleman, not members of the house.
The majority of the aristocracy of the country were pre-
sent either in the capacity of officers of the crown, or as
elders and assessors from the burghs ' Rothes, Wernyss,
Balmerino, Lindsay, Yester, Eglinton, Loudon, and
many others, whose sole word was still law for large
districts of Scotland. ' From each of the four universities
there were three representatives, and ' thair cam out of ilk
presbitrie within the Kingdome to this assemblie, ane,
tua, or thrie of ablest covenanting ministcris, with ane,
tua, or thrie milling elderis, who sould voice as they
voiced.' There were altogether present ' 140 ministers,
2 professors, not ministers, and 98 ruling elders from
presbyteries and burghs. Of these ruling elders, 17 were
noblemen, 9 were knights, 25 were landed proprietors,
and 47 were burgesses all men of some consideration.'
The great crowd, however, that had gathered to Glasgow
consisted of the trains or 'following' of the nobles,
which were made very large on the pretext that as there
might be an inroad of Highland robbers, a strong guard
of armed men was absolutely necessary. This immense
crowd of retainers caused great confusion, pressure, and
unseemly scenes, which have been caustically described
by Robert Baillie, afterwards Principal of the University
of Glasgow, who was a member of the Assembly. ' Our
rascals,' says he, in his Letters and Journals, ' without
shame in great numbers make such din and clamour in
the house of the true God, that if they " minted " to use
the like behaviour in my chamber, I would not be con-
tented till they were down the stairs.' Burnet in his
Memoirs oftltc Dukes of Hamilton says it was the greatest
gathering that had ever met in these parts, and that
the Marquis of Hamilton, who was the royal commis-
sioner, 'judged it was a sad sight to see such an as-
sembly, for not a gown was among them all, but
many had swords and daggers about them,' so that
there was more of an armed conference than any-
thing else. Mr John Bell of the Laigh Kirk, ' the
most auncient preicher of the toune,' preached the
opening sermon, and after some preliminary quarrel-
ling about the conduct of business, Mr Alexander Hen-
derson, minister of Leuchars, was appointed moderator,
and thereafter several days were spent in keen discus-
sion as to the constitution of and powers vested in the
Assembly ; and it soon became pretty evident that the
court was determined to remodel the whole government
100
GLASGOW
of tho Church. The commissioner, a man of steady
judgment and sharp and clear wit, did his best to stop
what he deemed a high-handed and unauthorised pro-
ceeding ; but he had arrayed against him all the best
men of the time, for whom single-handed he was no
match in argument, and at length, on Wednesday, 28
Nov., at the seventh sitting, when the members were
about to vote on the question whether the Assembly
was competent to judge the bishops, the marquis, de-
claring that he could not give his countenance to their
proceedings, produced the King's instructions and war-
rant to dissolve the Assembly, which he accordingly
did, and left the Assembly accompanied by his asses-
sors and a few of the members, and ' immediatelie causes
ane herald to go to the Cross of Glasgow in his cot
armes, with ane proclamation maid wp be him and
the lordis of secreit counsall and subscrivit with there
handis and givin wnder his Majesteis signet, daitit the
29th of November, and be sound of trumpet dischargeit
the said generall assemblie and in his Hines name coin-
mandit tne said pretendit moderatour, comrnissioneris,
reulling elderis, and all uther memberis thairof, not to
treat, consult, or conclude any farder in the said assem-
blie wnder the pane of tressoun, and that they should
ryss wp and dissolue out of the toune of Glasgow
within 24 houris. ' The General Assembly held at Glas-
gow in 1610 had declared that all general meetings of
the Church were unlawful without the licence of the
King, but the men of 1638 were of different mind and
in another temper. While the commissioner was leav-
ing the meeting, instruments were being taken and a
protest read declaring that the work of the Assembly
would not be interrupted ; and protest was again made
at the Cross against the proclamation, claiming that the
Assembly being once convened could not be dissolved
without its own consent. The loss of the royal repre-
sentative was considered to be compensated for by the
adherence and encouragement of the Earl of Argyll, who
now definitely cast in his lot with the Covenanters ; and
so the Presbyterians, left to themselves, proceeded with
earnestness and devoted courage to do the work for
which they had assembled. ' They passed an act de-
cl.-iring the Assemblies of 1606, 1608, 1616, 1617, and
1618 to have been so vitiated by kingly interference as
to be null and void.' They condemned 'the service
book, the book of canons, the book of ordination, and
the Court of High Commission. They abjured Episco-
pacy and the five articles of Perth,' and then proceeded
to the trial and deposition of the bishops and some
other ministers besides for professing the doctrines of
Arminianism, Popery, and Atheism ; for urging the use
of the liturgy, bowing to the altar, and wearing the
cope and rochet ; for declining the Assembly, and for
being guilty of simony, avarice, profanity, adultery,
drunkenness, and other crimes. The Bishop of St
Andrews, for instance, was found guilty of riding
through the country on the Lord's Day, of carding and
dicing during the time of divine service, of tippling in
taverns till midnight, of falsifying the acts of Assembly,
of slandering the Covenant, and of adultery, incest,
sacrilege, and simony ! It is difficult to believe all this
of a venerable man like Spottiswoode, and probably his
real fault was that he was a bishop. Thomas Foster,
minister of Melrose, was deposed on the charge ' that
he used to sit at preaching and prayer, baptise in his
own house ; that he made a way through the church for
his kine and sheep ; that he made a waggon of the old
communion table to lead his peats in ; that he took in
his corn, and said it was lawful to work, on the Sabbath ;
and that he affirmed the Reformers had brought more
damage to the Church in one age than the Pope and his
faction had done in a thousand years.' One of the
counts against the Bishop of Orkney was 'that he was a
curler on the ice on the Sabbath day;' while the
Bishop of Moray was convicted of all 'the ordinary
faults of a bishop,' and was besides charged by Mr
Andrew Cant with having danced in his nightshirt at
his daughter's wedding ! And so the Archbishops of
St Andrews an<\ Glasgow, and the Bishops of Edinburgh,
Aberdeen, Galloway, Ross, Brcchin, Dunblane, Dun-
keld, Moray, Orkney and Lismore and the Isles, were de-
posed and excommunicated ; the Covenant was ordered
to be signed by all classes of the people ; and thus ' the
whole fabric which James and Charles in a long course
of years had been rearing with so much care and policy
fell at once to the ground.' The government of the
Church by kirk sessions, presbyteries, and synods was
restored ; and the work of the Assembly being over,
it adjourned on 20 Dec., having held eighteen meet-
ings after the commissioner retired, and the last day is
stated to have been a 'blithe day to all.' As to the
part the Glasgow representative took there can be no
doubt, for it is recorded that, after duly consulting the
council as he had been ordered, he was instructed to
vote for all the resolutions put and carried.
Soon after the meeting of the Assembly the great
civil war broke out, and the Earl of Montrose, having
bandoned the Covenanting party and attached himself
o the cause of the King, raised an army in the North,
nd, after defeating the troops of the Covenanters at
number of battles, marched southwards to Kilsyth,
few miles from Glasgow, where, on 15 Aug. 1645, he
iflicted a decisive defeat on General Baillie at the head
of 7000 Covenanters. The authorities in Glasgow heard
of the triumph of Montrose with no small uneasiness,
but, though strong Covenanters, and opposed therefore
to the cause for which the marquis had fought and con-
quered, they were men of policy ; and so, making a virtue
of necessity, they sent a deputation, consisting of Sir
Robert Douglas of Blackerston and Archibald Fleming,
Commissary of the City, to Kilsyth to invite Montrose,
in the name of Provost Bell and the magistrates, to
honour the city by his presence and to partake of their
hospitality. The marquis accepted the invitation, and
marched to Glasgow, where he and his army were wel-
comed with much solemnity and outward respect, his
lordship and his officers being sumptuously entertained
by the magistrates and higher classes of the inhabitants
at a banquet, during which their apologies for their
former want of loyalty were tendered and received in
good part. A ' pest ' then prevailed in the city, how-
ever, and Montrose left it on the second day and
moved to Bothwell ; not, however, without leaving a
memorial of his visit in a forced loan to assist in carry-
ing on the war on the King's behalf to the extent of
50,000 Scots, which was, of course, never repaid.
Within a month after, Montrose was surprised and de-
feated at Philipliaugh by General Leslie, who, in his
turn, visited Glasgow, where the town council had
meanwhile got into difficulties over their conduct
towards Montrose, the Earl of Lanark having, in virtue
of a warrant from the committee of the
pended the whole council, and the estates themselves
having selected a new one, which was accepted, though
t without protest against such an invasion of the pri-
vileges of the burgh. Leslie was very civil, and even
moderate, but, with a very grim joke about money being
necessary to pay the interest of the loan to Montrose,
he also borrowed from them 20,000 Scots, so that the
city probably lost more than it would have done if it
had left the matter alone. Montrose, as the King's
lieutenant, had summoned a parliament to meet at
Glasgow on 20 Oct., but now, instead of the bustle
of a meeting of the estates, the citizens had the spectacle
of an execution, for three of the prisoners taken at
Philiphaugh Sir William Rollock, Sir Philip Nisbet,
and Alexander Ogilvie of Inverquharity were put to
death within the city, Rollock on 28, and his two com-
panions on 29 Oct. That the spectacle of the execution
of these unfortunate royalists was a pleasing one to a
large number of the citizens there can be no reason to
doubt, and some idea may be obtained of the bitter
feeling of the contending parties, when we remember
the remark of so presumably pious a man as the Glasgow
Professor of Divinity for the time being, Mr David Dick-
son, who, when he heard of the executions, exclaimed,
The work gangs bonnily on,' a saying which became
ly used in Glasgow.
proverbial, and was long significantly i
Montrose, with a small force he had succeeded in
collecting, made a demonstration on Glasgow at the
time in the hope of averting the fate of his unhappy
friends, but he had not sufficient strength to accom-
plish anything, and after a few days retreated to
Athole.
After Charles had surrendered to the Scots and had
been handed over to the English army, Scotland be-
came, when too late, frightened at the triumph of the
ambitious and uncompromising Independents of Eng-
land, and the consequent danger to its beloved Presby-
terianism. To meet the supposed danger, levies were
ordered by the Scottish parliament ; but Glasgow, in-
fluenced by the clergy, many of whom preferred the
unknown danger of the ascendency of the Independents
to the known danger of the royal power, was found
amongst the number of those contumacious burghs which
declined to furnish their quota. Provost Stewart, with
the other magistrates and members of council, were in
consequence summoned before parliament, imprisoned
for several days, and deprived of their offices. But a
heavier infliction still awaited them, inasmuch as five
regiments of horse and foot were sent to the town, with
orders that they should be quartered exclusively on the
mag.strates, members of council, ministers, members of
the kirk-session, and their friends. Some of these
gentlemen were burdened with 10, 20, and 30 soldiers
each, who not only lived on the best the place could
afford in the way of meat, brandy, and wine, but exacted
from their compulsory entertainers their daily pay into
the bargain. During the short period these five regi-
ments ' sorned ' upon the inhabitants, the latter sus-
tained a loss of 40,000 Scots ; and Principal Baillie
pathetically remarks that their 'loss and danger was
not so great by James Graham.' The failure of the
expedition and the defeat at DUNBAE are matters of
history. Shortly after the latter battle the Protector
took possession of Edinburgh, and thence marched to
Glasgow by way of Kilsyth. On his arrival he took
i his residence at Silvercraigs House, which stood till
' levee chamber
ure sale-room),
on the S side of the Saltmarket at the N corner of
Steel Street, and nearly opposite the Bridgegate. Find-
ing the magistrates had all fled, he sent for Patrick Gil-
lespie, the influential minister of the Outer High church,
and subsequently principal of the university, whom he
hospitably entertained, and then treated to such a long
and fervent prayer, that the worthy minister, quite
overcome, gave out among the townsfolks that ' surely
he must be one of the elect.' On the following Sunday
Cromwell made a formal procession to the cathedral to
hear sermon. Zaehary Boyd, so well known in con-
nection with his paraphrases, minister of the Barony
parish (who was one of those courageous enough to
remain), occupied the pulpit in the forenoon, and, in
his preaching, boldly and severely inveighed against
Cromwell and the Independen
self bore it patiently, but his folli
up his
nee at Silv
about thirty years ago (though Oliver's I
had latterly degenerated into a furnitur
Independents. The Protector him-
it pati '
'Shall I pistol the scoundrel?' whispered his secretary
Thurloe. ' No, no,' replied Cromwell, ' we will manage
him another way.' And so he invited the bold divine
to sup with him, and concluded the entertainment with
a prayer of some hours' duration, which is said by con-
temporary chroniclers to have lasted till three o'clock
in the morning, and Boyd left rather pleased, no doubt,
than otherwise. He remained in Glasgow for only a
few days, but visited it again on 18 April 1651, when
he had a more friendly reception, and, along with
General Lambert, discussed matters with Mr James
Guthrie and Mr Patrick Gillespie. This time he re-
mained ten days. On both occasions his conduct was
distinguished by a great degree of moderation, and testi-
mony is borne to this by those not otherwise inclined
to speak favourably of him. His visit to Glasgow was,
indeed, beneficial in more ways than one, for some of
his soldiers, tradesmen who had been called away from
their peaceful callings by the frenzy and enthusiasm of
the times, ultimately settled in Glasgow, and contri-
GLASQOW
huted to foster the spirit of trade and to introduce lm-
provements in some of the handicrafts.
In its previous history Glasgow had more than once
suffered by fire, privation, and pestilence ; but on
Thursday, 17 June 1652, a conflagration broke out,
which exceeded all former visitations of the kind in
its extent and in its painful effects upon the citizens.
It began about two o'clock in the afternoon on the E
side of High Street While everybody was busy there,
some sparks, carried by the wind, set fire to houses on
the W side of the Saltmarket, where the conflagration
ran from house to house with great rapidity, spread-
ing to both sides of the street and into the Tron-
gato, Gallowgate, and Bridgegate. It burned for about
eighteen hours, and on the following Sunday it again
broke out in the Trongate, and burned for about
five hours. It is said to have been caused by intense
heat ; and Law, in his Memorials, says that the great
spread was caused by the frequent changes of wind that
took place during its progress. About a third of the
city was destroyed (' fourscore bye-lanes and alleys,
with all the shops, besides eighty warehouses,' according
to the council report) ; 1000 persons were burned out ;
and, from the destruction of property and the loss of
furniture by fire or by theft, many previously in com-
fortable circumstances were cast destitute on the world.
The wretched inhabitants some through necessity,
others through fear were, for many days and nights,
compelled to encamp in the open fields, and, altogether,
the calamity was the worst that had ever befallen Glas-
gow. The loss was estimated at 100,000, a very large
sum in those days, and contributions were made for the
sufferers from all parts of the country. Like London,
however, under a similar affliction, Glasgow rose from
her ashes purified and beautified, and the ruined houses,
which had been built or faced with wood, were replaced
by substantial stone edifices, which were constructed in
a more open and commodious manner than the buildings
they replaced. It is recorded that after this fire the
magistrates ordered the church doors to be opened, not
to give the unfortunate people shelter, but for the con-
venience of those who had no chambers to retire to
' for making of their devotions.' In 1677 another great
fire took place in Glasgow, which destroyed 136 houses,
and rendered between 500 and 600 families homeless.
It originated at the head of the Saltmarket, near the
Cross, and was caused by a smith's apprentice, who had
been beaten by his master, and who, in revenge, set fire
to his smithy during the night. Law, in his Memorials,
says, ' The heat was so great that it fyred the horoledge
of the tolbooth,' the present Cross steeple. There were
prisoners in it at the time among others the
f Kersland, who had been concerned in the Pent-
laird
land rising ; but they were rescued
by the people
broke open the tolbooth doors and set them free.
The restoration of Charles II., in 1660, was celebrated
Glasgow with a good deal of outward respect and
but it is pretty
people rejoiced ' that the King had
*
that most of the
to his own
again* simply because it was fashionable to do so, and
because the absence of health-drinking and bonfires
might give a character of disaffection to the place.
With a full remembrance of the troubles and desolations
of the time of the first Charles, the citizens were well
contented with the order and security which the Pro-
tector had established among them, and would by no
means have been disinclined to a continuance of the
government upon similar principles. The Presbyterians
had therefore no high expectations from the new order
of things, and they were ere long confirmed in their
misgivings. It soon became apparent that the policy
of Charles II. would be similar to that of his father in
his efforts to force Episcopacy upon an unwilling people ;
and, as Glasgow was the headquarters of the Presby-
terians in the West, the city shared in all the pains and
persecutions of that iron time. The King having ap-
pointed Mr Andrew Fairfoul, minister of Duns, to be
archbishop of Glasgow, he arrived in Edinburgh in
April 1662, having been previously consecrated in West-
minster Abbey. Despite liis efforts, and notwithstand-
ing the civil power with which lie was armed, the
existing clergy and laity in Glasgow, with trifling ex-
ceptions, refused to conform to the new order of things,
and the Earl of Middleton came to Glasgow, on 26
Sept. 1662, with a committee of the Scottish Privy
Council to enforce Episcopacy. They were well re-
ceived, and proceeded to investigate the complaint of
the archbishop that none of the ministers who had
entered the Church since 1649 had acknowledged his
authority as bishop, and his prayer that the council
should issue and enforce an act and proclamation banish-
ing all those clergymen from their houses, parishes, and
presbyteries, unless they should, before a certain date,
appear and receive collation from him as their bishop.
The matter was considered at a meeting of the Privy
Council, held in the fore-hall of the college on 1 Oct.,
and it was resolved Sir James Lockhart of Lee dis-
senting, and declaring that the act would desolate the
land and excite to fever heat the dislike and indignation
with which the prelates had already begun to be re-
gardedthat all such ministers were to remove from
their parishes within a month, and the people were not
to acknowledge them as their ministers, nor to repair to
hear their sermons. The meeting was, according to
Wodrow, known as ' the drunken meeting at Glasgow,
and it was affirmed that all present were flustered with
drink save Sir James Lockhart of Lee.' In their subse-
quent visits to the other towns of the West, they were
not much better, for it is recorded that in one of their
debauches they drank the devil's health at midnight at
the Cross of Ayr ; yet to such debauchees was entrusted
:i task that resulted in more than 400 Presbyterian
ministers being ejected from their parishes, and led to all
the wild work of persecution that followed.
Early in 1678 the committee of council returned to
Glasgow, and had a sederunt of ten days. They were
accompanied by a band of Highlanders, about 5000 in
number, who came to be known as the Highland Host,
and whose presence was intended to enforce the wishes
of the committee. They arrived in Glasgow on 13
Jan. 1678 in the time of public worship, and were
quartered on the inhabitants. Their presence was only
to be got rid of by the subscription of a bond by which
the heritors, and the better classes of the community,
bound themselves that they, their wives, families, and
servants, with their tenants, cottars, etc., would not be
present at any of the field preachings, or hold any com-
munication with the ' outed ' ministers. Though this
made men in prominent stations responsible for the
doings of hundreds of people over whom they had no
control, yet such was the desire to get rid of the plunder-
ing and extortionate Highland Host, that the bond was
subscribed by the provost, bailies, members of council,
and the leading men of the city to the number of 153.
After their ten days' stay in Glasgow they passed on to
Ayrshire, where damage to the amount of 137,499
Scots was done, and then as the Covenanters would not
rise to give colour to a charge of rebellion, nor yet sign
the bond, except in very insignificant numbers, the
plunderers were sent to their homes. ' When the Hi"h-
landers,' says Sir Walter Scott in his Tales of a Grand-
father, ' went back to their hills, which was in Feb. 1678,
they appeared as if returning from the sack of some be-
sieged town. They carried with them plate, merchant-
goods, webs of linen and of cloth, quantities of wearing
apparel and household furniture, and a good number of
horses to bear their plunder.' As they were returning,
the Glasgow people had, however, an opportunity of re-
venge, for about 2000 of the Highlanders had to return
by way of Glasgow, and when they arrived on the S, or
Gorbals side, the Clyde was so swollen that it was un-
ibrdable. Thus favoured by chance, the students of the
college, and many of the inhabitants, who, either by
themselves or fnends, had suffered from the former
ravages of the host, blocked the bridge, and opposed
their passage. Only 40 of the Celts were allowed to pass
at a time, and these were led along and dismissed by the
West Port, after they had been deprived of their plunder.
GLASGOW
A building near the bridge is said to have been nearly
filled with the ' pots, pans, bed-cloths, wearing clothes,'
coats, cloaks, etc., that were taken.
After the victory of the Covenanters at DEUMCLOO a
party of them marched to Glasgow, and attempted to
take it from Graham of Claverhouse, who, with the
Royal forces, had retired thither. In anticipation of
attack the streets had been barricaded, and though
,
the Covenanters, attacking by the Gallowgate and
Vennel, fought bravely, they were repulsed. Their
dead were most inhumanly left lying in the streets, it is
said, by Claverhouse's express orders. After the battle
of Bothwell Brig, the Duke of Monmouth was eagerly
pressed by some of his officers to burn Glasgow, or at
least to give it up to three hours' plunder, but he would
sanction neither, and thus Glasgow escaped what meant
utter ruin. In March 1684 a number of Covenanting
martyrs suffered death at the Cross, their heads being
afterwards cut off and placed on the tolbooth. They
were buried on the N side of the cathedral. Some
others suffered at the foot of the Howgate, where the
martyrs' fountain stands. The tolbooth was so crowded
with prisoners at the time, that they had to sleep by
turns, and a great many of the poor people, convicted
without evidence, were banished to the plantations.
When James II. succeeded to the throne, the Council
sent to the King their expressions of ' sincere joy,' and,
when late in the end of Oct. 1688 he was in difficul-
ties, a body of 1200 men was raised for his assistance ;
but these, refusing to obey the magistrates, never left
the city, and had to be disbanded in January 1689. On
the 24th of the same month, a loyal address was pre-
pared to Prince William of Orange, and, still later, a
body of 500 men (the foundation of the regiment now
known as the Cameronians) embodied according to tra-
dition in one day, was placed under the command of the
Earl of Argyll, and sent to Edinburgh to assist in guard-
ing the Estates then engaged in deliberating upon the
settlement of the Crown in favour of William and Mary.
After William's accession, when the Darien scheme
was projected, Glasgow, which had already experienced
to some extent the advantages of commerce, entered into
the speculation with great alacrity. The Council, on
behalf of the burgh, took stock to the value of 3000
sterling ; the citizens subscribed largely of their means
many of them their all ; and not a few embarked per-
sonally in the expedition. The last of these sailed from
Rothesay Bay on 14 Sept. 1699, the four frigates that
went carrying 1200 emigrants, among whom was the
last of the old family of Stewart of Minto, once the
municipal chiefs of Glasgow, and whose decay has al-
ready been referred to. The unhappy sacrifice of the
' - ..... , and William's faithle
are well known. Of all the emigrants, but a score or two
of broken-down and beggared men ever reached their
native land again, and hundreds of families at home,
who had been in affluent circumstances, were ruined.
The news reached Glasgow about the middle of 1700,
and so severely did the city suffer from the shock, thit
it was not till 18 years after that her merchants again
possessed ships of their own.
Here, on the eve of the Union of the two kingdoms,
which, disastrous as it was in its first results, has sinct
tended to promote so greatly the prosperity of the
country, we may again pause and consider the
that Glasgow had made since the time of the I
tion, and that notwithstanding the famine, fires, plagues,
and disasters that we have recounted. The city seen^
not to have extended its limits very far beyond the earliei
bounds, though, from the great increase in population,
the old parts must have been much more closely built,
and spaces formerly open covered with houses. The Die
tionnaire Geographiqiie, published at Paris in 1705, say.'
it ' was large enough, but thinly peopled,' and Clellanf
asserts that at the Union, Glasgow had not extendet.
beyond its old ports, viz. : on the E, the Gallowgati
Port, near St Mango's Lane ; on the W, the West Port
at the head of Stockwell Street ; on the S, the Wate
Port, near the old bridge ; on the N, the Stable Green
GLASGOW
: ; on the NW, Rottenrow
ng ground now occupied by
Tort, at the Bishops' Pal
Port; while all the adjoin .,
P.ell Street, Candleriggs, King Street, and Princes Street
was occupied by corn-fields ; but yet, notwithstanding
this, there had been a very marked change in its position
and condition. As we have seen, it was, at the time of
the Reformation, eleventh on the roll of Scottish burghs,
and was stented for 13, 10s. Scots ; in 1695 it stood
second (Edinburgh being its only superior), and was
stented for 1800 Scots. The population, which at
the Reformation was about 4500, had, by 1600, become
about 7000. In 1660 this had grown to 14,678, but the
troubles of the next 28 years had such an injurious
effect that, in 1688, this had decreased to 11,948. In
1701 there were 9994 'examinable persons ' recorded in
the city, and this name must have applied apparently to
younger people than would now be termed adults, for a
little later (1708) the total population is returned at
12,766. A new tolbooth had been erected near the
Cross in 1626, superseding the old one at the foot of
(he High Street. It was a fine picturesque building,
is described by a contemporary writer as 'a very sump-
tuous, regulated, uniform fabric, large and lofty, most
industriously and artificially carved from the very founda-
tion to the superstructure, to the great admiration of
strangers,' and as, ' without exception, the paragon of
beauty in the west.' All that now remains of both struc-
tures is the Cross steeple, which has been happily pre-
served from the destruction that has overtaken so many
of the old buildings of Glasgow, though, in 1814, it had
a narrow escape, and such a fate was only averted by a
majority of votes in the council of the day. The Cross
itself, which had replaced the older one at the end of
Rotten Row, was removed in 1659 as 'altogether de-
faced,' and all trace of it is lost. The houses along the
streets leading from the Cross had piazzas. Defoe,
writing of Glasgow, in 1723, says ' The City consists of
Four principal Streets in the Form of a Cross, with the
Town-House and Market Place iu the Middle, where as
you walk you see the whole Town at once. The Houses
are of Free Stone, of an Equal height, and supported
with Pillars, and the Streets being spacious and well
pav'd, add to the Beauty of the Place.' He also adds
that ' this City is strictly Presbyterian, and is the best
affected to the Government of any in Scotland.'
It is a somewhat curious contrast to the present blate
of affairs that in the 17th and the beginning of the 18th
centuries Glasgow was noted for its beauty. One of
Cromwell's soldiers describes it, in 1650, as 'not so
liig or rich yet,' to all 'a much sweeter and more de-
lyghtful place than Edinburgh.' Another English
traveller named Franck, whose opinion of the tolbooth
has been already given, and who visited the city a little
later, speaks in high terms of ' the splendour and dig-
nity of this city of Glasgow, which surpasseth most, if
not all, the corporations in Scotland,' and also mentions
with approval 'the exact decorum in every society.'
This praise may be accepted with the less hesitation
when we consider that the writer was not on the whole
favourably impressed with Scotland, and did not hesi-
tate to say so. 'A satirist,' says Sir Walter Scott,
'with regard to every other place Franck describes
Glasgow as the " nonsuch of Scotland," where an
"English florist may pick up a posie."' Morer, who
wrote in 1689, says, in the work already quoted, that
' Glasgow has the reputation of the finest town in Scot-
land, not excepting Edinburgh ; ' and Defoe, in his
Jounuy Through Scotland, published iu 1723, says
almost enthusiastically, 'Glasgow is the beautifullest
little City I have seen in Britain ; it stands deliciously
on the banks of the river Clyde, over which there is a
fair Stone Bridge of Eight Arches.' And in a subsequent
edition he says still more in its praise, ' the four princi-
pal streets are the fairest for breadth and the finest built
that I have ever seen in one city together. The houses
are all of stone, and generally uniform in height as well
as in front. The lower stories for the most part stand
on vast square Doric columns with arches which open
into the shops, r.ddiiig to the strength as well as beauty
GLASGOW
of the building. .In a word, 'tis one of the cleanliest,
most beautiful, and best built cities in Great Britain.'
Defoe's description is later than the Union, and about
the time when it was beginning to bear fruit, but
the others are earlier, and yet alike they give us a
picture of Glasgow still rural, but beginning to have the
germs of its future greatness in its increasing trade, which
was, in Defoe's time, quickly outgrowing the little com-
mencement that had, in the beginning of the 18th cen-
tury, been made in the manufacture of tobacco, the
refining of sugar, and the making of soajf
The growing importance of the city is evident from
the fact that in 1702 the provost, Hugh Jlontgomerie
of Busby, was one of the commissioners appointed to go
to London to carry on negotiations for a treaty of Union,
and the council agreed that the city should bear the ex-
pense of his journey. Notwithstanding this little mark
of attention, the Union proposal was received by the
:ihabitants of Glasgow, particularly by the lower orders,
elsewhere thr
;h bitterness as elsewhere throughout the
country. The populace of Glasgow, with a pet griev-
ance of their own because, instead of returning a mem-
ber of parliament for themselves, they were in future
only to share one with Dumbarton, Renfrew, and
Rutherglen, became so much excited that the magis-
trates deemed it necessary to issue a proclamation that
not more than three persons should assemble together
after sunset. A most injudicious and inflammatory ser-
mon, preached by the Rev. James Clark, minister of
the Tron Church, on 7 Nov. 1706, a sacramental Fast-
day, was regarded as a direct encouragement and injunc-
tion to insurrection, and caused the murmurs of discon-
tent, to which the opposition had been hitherto con-
fined, to rise into open violence. Within two hours
after the sermon drums were beat through the streets,
and the people, gathering in immense numbers, fairly
overturned the authority of the magistrates. Finding
that the magistrates and council refused their request
to present a remonstrance to parliament on the subject
of the Union, they attacked the council-house and the
residence of the provost, Jlr Aird. After a short lull
town-guard, stormed the tolbooth, and seized the town's
arms, which consisted of 250 halberts. With these
they marched about the streets, forcing their way into
the houses of those supposed to be favourable to the
time"' The house of the provost was rifled, and he him-
self, attacked on the street, only escaped with his life by
timely concealment and subsequent flight to Edinburgh.
The rioters, who had adopted a sort of rude military
system, then formed the bold resolution of marching
to the capital and dispersing the parliament, and they
actually set out for this purpose under the leadership of a
Jacobite publican named Finlay. Starting with a body
of men by no means numerous, Finlay was met at Kil-
syth by the intelligence that cavalry and infantry were
already on their way from Edinburg'h to put down the
riot. At first, nothing dismayed, he determined to
fight, and sent to Glasgow for 400 men who had been
left behind ; but as they did not come, the disappointed
leader and his companions returned to Glasgow, and,
laying down their arms, separated. This was the end of
disturbances that had lasted for four weeks, and the
publican and some of the other leaders were arrested
immediately after and carried to Edinburgh. Techni-
cally they had forfeited their lives, as being guilty of
high treason ; and it says much for the strength and
moderation of Queen Anne's government that shortly
after the Union Act passed into law, they were all
liberated without further punishment than their tem-
porary imprisonment. Had there been competent
leaders the insurrection might have proved formidable,
but no man of mark and influence in the W of Scotland
had any connection with it, and but a very short time
elapsed before the Glasgow citizens became fully alive
to the advantages the Union had brought them in the
opening of the American trade, etc. ; in fact we may
almost say that it was at this time that Glasgow entered
upon that successful
which, in due course, :
er of industry snd enterprise
idered it the chief seat of the
commerce and manufactures of Scotland.
The rebellion of 1715 did not much affect Glasgow,
excepting in so far as it Rave the city an opportunity of
displaying its liberality and loyalty and its sincere at-
tachment to the principles of the revolution of 1688.
The citizens raised a regiment of 600 men, which they
drilled and maintained at their own expense, paying
the common men at the rate of 8d. per day. This regi-
ment was placed at the disposal of the government, and
it rendered good service by performing the important
duty of guarding Stirling Castle, town, and bridge,
while the Duke of Argyll marched northward to meet
the Highlanders under the Karl of Mar at Sheriffmuir.
In the meantime the inhabitants had zealously provided
for the safety of the city by constructing rude fortifica-
tions, protected by a ditch 12 feet wide and 6 deep.
The town's accounts at the time contain numerous
entries of payment to artificers and labourers, who were
employed in the operations of forming the trenches and
barricades, of planting the guns which they already
possessed, of the freight of eight great guns from Port
Glasgow, etc. On 5 Dec. the Duke of Argyll
to Glasgow and took up his lodgings with Mr Campbell
of Argyll came
of Shawfield, and on the following day, accompanied by
the magistrates and several of the nobility and gentry,
ho reviewed the troops then lying in the town and in-
spected the defensive preparations made by the inhabi-
tants. Although the war did not come to their own
doors, the rebellion was nevertheless a costly atl'air to
the citizens ; and amongst other grievances we find the
magistrates complaining to the Duke of Argyll that they
had to maintain and guard 353 rebel prisoners, ' who
are lying in the town's hand and in custody in the
castle prison ' (the old bishop's palace, which could not
have been a very secure prison, for they required a guard
of about 100 men). Notwithstanding, however, all the
heavy charges to which it was subjected, the city could
afford to be grateful to those who had assisted it in time
of trial. In 1716, on the suppression of the rebellion, an
order was made that ' a silver tankard, weighting forty-
eight mice, thirteen drop, at 7s. sterling per unce ; and
a sett of suggar boxes, weighting nineteen unce, fourteen
drop, at 8s. per unce ; and a server wing, weighting
thirty-one unce and twelve drop, at 6s. 4d. per unce,'
lie presented to Colonel William Maxwell of Cardonald
'as a mark of the town's favour and respect towards him
for his good service in taking upon him the regulation
,-md management of all the guards that were kept in the
city during the rebellion and confusions in the nei"h-
bourhood/
Within a few years after the rebellion, viz., in 1725,
a riot broke out in the city, which was so painful and
fatal in its consequences, that for half a century after its
occurrence it called up to every son of St Mungo re-
miniscences of the most bitter and exciting kind. This
disturbance was caused by the imposition of the first
7nalt tax. As most of the people then drank beer, the
new duty was by no means very popular ; and in Glas-
gow, on 23 June, the day on which the operation of the
tax began, the mob arose, obstructed the excisemen, and
assumed such a threatening attitude, that on the evening
of the next day Captain Bushell entered the town with
two companies of Lord Deloraine's regiment of foot.
This did not, however, prevent the mob from assailin"
the house of Daniel Campbell of Shawfield, who was
then M.P. for the Glasgow district of burghs, and who
had rendered himself particularly obnoxious in connec-
tion with the matter by his support of the tax. The
house stood in the Trongate on the site of Glassford
Street, and was by far the finest in t*e city, but the
rioters completely dismantled it and destroyed the fur-
niture. The magistrates, not dreading such acts of
violence, had retired to a tavern to spend the evening,
when about eleven o'clock p.m. tidings were brought
them of the work of havoc and demolition then in pro-
press, while at the same time a sergeant came from
Bushell to inquire if he should beat to arms ; but the
114
GLASGOW
provost, who appears to have been either a timid man
or one averse to proceed to extremities, declined the
proffered military aid. Next day the mob was still in a
very excited state, and so annoyed Bushell's sentinels
by throwing stones at them, that the captain ordered out
all his men and formed a hollow square in the vicinity
of the guardhouse, at the SW corner of Candleriggs.
This movement was followed by another shower of stones
directed against the soldiers, and Captain Bushell, with-
out any authority from the civil power, ordered his men
to fire, when two persons in the crowd were killed on
the spot and others wounded. This so roused the in-
habitants that, thirsting for vengeance, they assailed
the town-house magazine, carried forth the arms, and
rang the fire-bell to arouse the city. The provost-
Miller being alarmed at the probable results of a
further collision between the military and the people ;
requested Bushell to remove his soldiers, which he ac-
cordingly did in the direction of Dumbarton Castle.
This did not, however, avert further catastrophe, for
the mob, still excited and inflamed, followed on the
line of retreat in great force, and by-and by began to
act upon the offensive, when the captain again ordered
his men to fire, and several persons fell. In all there
were nine persons killed and seventeen wounded in this
unfortunate affair, and as usually happens in such cases
it was not merely the assailants or rabble who suffered,
but many respectable persons were shot down who hap-
pened to be in the crowd or its neighbourhood either
accidentally or from motives of curiosity. The military
reached the castle of Dumbarton in safety, with the
exception of two of the soldiers who were captured by
the mob, and only one of whom suffered any ill-treat-
ment. Previous to the attack on his house Mr Camp-
bell had removed with his family to his country-house
at Woodhall, about 8 miles distant from the city,
whither he had gone on 22 June. It has been asserted
that private threats or hints had reached him of the
coming attack, and that, had he given this information
in sufficient time t
mischief might have been pr
of the serious nature of the disturbances reached head-
quarters, General Wade set out with a considerable
force of horse, foot, and artillery, and took possession
of the city. He was accompanied by Duncan Forbes of
Culloden, the Lord Advocate, who proceeded to make
an investigation into the case, the result of which was
that nineteen persons were apprehended and delivered
over to Captain Bushell, and by him and the two com-
panies under his command they were taken to Edinburgh
and lodged in the castle. On the same day, the 16th of
July, the whole of the magistrates, from the provost
down to the deacon-convener including even some who
had been absent from Glasgow during the time of thf
riots were apprehended at the instance of the Lord
Advocate, and imprisoned first in their own tolbootl:
and then in Edinburgh Castle, whither they wen
escorted by a considerable body of horse and foot. Th<
charge against them was that they had favoured th<
riots and winked at the destruction of Campbell's house.
but it is plain that the utmost that can be laid to theii
charge was want of due preparation and energy in re
pressing the disturbance. After one day's detentioi
the Lords of Justiciary granted their application fo
bail, and they were liberated and set out on their returi
to Glasgow. Six miles from the city they were met b 1
about 200 of the inhabitants, who escorted them horn'
with every demonstration of respect, amid the joyou ;
ringing of bells. The magistrates were afterwards freei
from blame, but of the nineteen persons of inferio
rank who had been arrested, two were banished forevei
while nine were whipped through the streets of Glasgow
and eight were liberated after considerable terms of de
tention. An attempt was made by the magistrates t
bring Bushell to trial for the murder of nine of th ,
citizens, but he was screened by ' the powers that be '
for he not only got out of the difficulty, but was pro-
moted in the service. To aggravate the already suft
ciently distressing case, Campbell was, on application t j
, ,
sufficient time to the magistrates, all the unhappy
chief might have been prevented. As soon as word
diffi
lty induc
5000 in money and 500 in goods, with
quartered on the city for four days.
tunate march to Derby the
GLASGOW
parliament, granted indemnity for his loss of 6080,
which the city had to pay, besides other expenses
amountin" to over 3000. The inhabitants long re-
garded this Shawfield affair with a burning sense of in-
justice sutl'ercd by them, and the compensation granted
was universally considered as excessive. With his com-
pensation money Mr Campbell purchased the fine estate
and island of Islay, which passed from the family about
thirty years ago.
The rankling recollection of the Shawfield slaughter
and its heavy fines did not prevent the citizens ci' Glas-
gow from coming forward with alacrity in defence of
tiie reigning family during the rebellion of 1745. On
this occasion they raised two battalions of 600 men each
for the service of the government. In Sept. 1745
Charles Edward wrote to the magistrates demanding
that the sum of 15,000 sterling, all the arms in the
city, and the arrears of taxes duo to the government
should bo forwarded to him for the use of his army.
The magistrates did not comply at the time, as they
had hopes of relief from the army of Sir John Cope,
but the demand of the Prince was soon enforced by
John Hay formerly a Writer to the Signet, and then
quarter-master in the Highland army and the Clan
SlacGregor under Glengyle. The magistrates with much
Mr Hay to accept a composition of
500 in goods, with which he
departed on 30 Sept., after his followers had been
ity for four days. After the unfor-
Prince in his retreat
ntered Glasgow on 26 Dec., his advanced guard having
arrived the day before. The necessities of the moun-
taineers were at this time extreme. The great majority
of them were bareheaded and barefooted and their gar-
ments in rags, and these with their matted hair, long
beards, and keen and famished aspect, imparted to
them an appearance peculiarly savage and ferocious.
At this time the volunteers equipped at the expense of
the city were posted at Edinburgh for the defence of
the capital. Alike to punish the city for appearing
in arms against him and to clothe his naked host, the
Chevalier ordered the magistrates forthwith to provide
6000 short-cloth coats, 12,000 linen shirts, 6000 pairs
of shoes, 6000 pairs of hose, 6000 waistcoats, and 6000
blue bonnets, the greater portion of wLicli articles were
by great exertions supplied in a few days. He also
exacted large contributions in bestial, corn, hay, and
straw. The Pretender evacuated the city on 3 Jan.
1746 after a sojourn of ten days, and took with him
hostages for the supply of the remaining portion of the
dotting still unfurnished, and which was afterwards
duly forwarded to the rebel camp at Bannoekburn.
While in Glasgow the Chevalier lodged in the house
formerly belonging to Campbell of Shawfield, which,
notwithstanding the treatment it had suffered (luring
the malt-tax riots, was still the most elegant in the
city, and which now belonged to Mr Glassford of
Dugaldston. The Prince was conciliatory. He sat
down to table twice a day accompanied by some of his
officers and a few devoted Jacobite ladies, whose sym-
pathies he was much more successful in enlisting than
those of their male relatives. After his men had been
got into better condition by being fed and clothed,
Charles treated the inhabitants to a grand review on the
Green, but they looked coldly on, and indeed so odious
was his cause that almost all the principal inhabitants
suspended business by closing their shops and counting-
houses during his stay. He remarked with bitterness
that nowhere had he made so few friends as in Glasgow,
for he only procured sixty adherents during his sojourn,
and these were the very scum of the place. Indeed the
provost of the time Cochrane allows him even less,
for he says the Prince's only recruit was ' ane drunken
shoemaker, who must soon have fled his country for
debt, if not for treason.' So keenly did Charles feel tho
Whiggism of the city that it is matter of tradition in
Glasgow that but for the manly and generous resistance
of Cameron of Lochiel the place would have been sacked
end buined. The Glasgow volunteers were engaged in
the Battle of Falkirk, where they suffered severely, and
seem to have behaved with some courage, for a contem-
porary song says, that the cavalry ran away,
Thrown into confusion by the precipitate retreat of
Gardiner's dragoons, they were severely handled by tha
Highlanders, who always regarded those who voluntarily
took up arms against them with much stronger feelings
of hostility than they evinced towards the regular troops
whose proper trade was fighting. Dugald Graham, a ped-
lar, and afterwards bellman of Glasgow, who accompanied
the Pretender's forces and published a rhyming ///,/,.,-,/
of Hie Rebellion, after narrating the defeat of Hawluy's
Horse, proceeds,
Where next stood to bide the bn
The Volunteers, who zealous
Kept firing close till near surrounded.
And by the flying horse confounded,
They suffered sair into this place ;
No Highlander pity'd their case ;
" Ye cura'd militia," they did swear,
" What a devil did bring you here?'"
On receipt of the news of the victory of Culloden there
were great rejoicings throughout the city. Apart from
their Whiggism, some satisfaction was no doubt felt by
the inhabitants in the ruin of a cause that had cost
them over 14,000, and no doubt still more was felt
hen Parliament, in 1749, granted 10,000 to the city
for the l
rebels.
,
s part indemnification
losses sustained from the
There are some interesting accounts of Glasgow
towards the middle of the 18th century, which we may
refer to in passing; Defoe's account of it has been
already mentioned, and his sketches of its commercial
condition will be further referred to in the section re-
garding Trade. In 1736 M'Ure's History of Glasgow ap-
peared. In his time the city was 1J mile in length and
about S mile in width. There were 20 stone bridges, only
one of which, however, was across the Clyde, 8 gates, 10
principal streets, and 17 wynds. There were 3 parks
the Fir park on the banks of the Molcndinar Burn (now
the Necropolis), the New Green (the present Green), and
the Old Green to the W of it. All three had trees,
the first firs, the others elms. All around were corn-
fields, gardens, and orchards. There were 144 shop-
keepers, 5 sugar-works, a rope-work, 3 tanyards, a
brewery, an iron-work, a linen manufactory, and a
tobacco spinning factory. While M'Ure thus describes
the outward condition of the city, the late Rev. Dr
Alexander Carlyle of Inveresk furnishes some interest-
in- glimpses of its social condition in his Autobiography
published in 1860. Carlyle attended the University in
1743 and 1744. In point of knowledge, he says Glas-
gow had the advantage over Edinburgh, as 'learning
seemed to be an object of more importance, and the habit
of application much more general,' but he considered
Ivlinl'iiigh superior in 'manner of living, and in those
accomplishments, and that taste that belong to people
of opulence and persons of education. ' There were few
gar;'' not half-a-dozen families fn town had men ser-
vants, and ' some of these were kept by the professors
who had boarders. The principal merchants took an
early dinner with their families at home, and then re-
sorted to the coffee-house or tavern [which explains how
the magistrates came to be in a tavern at the time of
the malt-tax riot] to read the newspapers which they
generally did in companies of four or five in separate
rooms, over a bottle of claret or a bowl of punch.'
Female society he does not seem to have found very
enchanting, for he says that there was no teacher of
French or music in the city, and that the young ladies
had very ungainly manners, and nothing to recommend
them but good looks and fine clothes. The aristocracy
had not yet come to the conclusion that intellectual
culture was only to be had in a more southern clime,.
115
GLASGOW
for among Carlvie's fellow-students were Lord Blantyre,
Lord Cassillis, and Andrew Hamilton, afterwards Earl
of Selkirk, of whom the latter was so studious that
Carlyle describes him as more fit for a professor than an
Earl. In the New Statistical Account Mr Dugald Banna-
tyne has furnished some further particulars of the same
nature, and applying to the same period, with one a
little later. He says the first main-door houses as apart
from flats were built about 1735. Living was cheap a
fact noticed also by Dr Carlyle, who says it was pos-
sible to dine on roast beef, potatoes, and small beer for
4d. and simple dinners with two courses were intro-
duced about 1786. The people were in general religious
at least in the observance of Sunday, on which day
some ' did not sweep or dust the house, nor make the
beds, nor allow any food to be cooked or dressed,' while
others ' opened only as much of the shutters of their
windows as would serve to enable the inmates to move
up and down, or an individual to sit at the opening to
read.' Smollett, who was born at Bonbill in Dumbar-
tonshire in 1721, and educated and apprenticed to a
surgeon in Glasgow, has also left on record his opinions
of the city in the middle of the 18th century in
Roderick Handom (1748), and still more in Humphry
Clinker (1771). In the former it figures merely as the
place of Roderick's education and apprenticeship, but
from the descriptions given of it in the chapters of the
books relating thereto, Smollett seems to have entertained
a very poor opinion of the social and moral condition of
Glasgow, and he is rather hard on the town council, for
in the last chapter he makes Roderick say, ' We got
notice that the magistrates intended next day to com-
pliment us with the freedom of their town, upon which
my father, considering their complaisance in the right
point of view, ordered the horses to the coach early in
the morning.' In Humphry Clinker the opinions are
much more favourable, and Bramble describes the city
as 'one of the prettiest towns in Europe,' and 'one of
the most flourishing in Great Britain. In short, it is
a perfect beehive in point of industry. It stands partly
on a gentle declivity, but the greatest part of it is in a
plain watered by the river Clyde. The streets are
straight, open, airy, and well paved, and the houses
lofty and well built of hewn stone. At the upper end
of the town there is a venerable cathedral that may be
compared with York Minster or Westminster, and about
the middle of the descent from this to the Cross is the
College, a respectable pile of building, with all manner
of accommodation for the professors and students, in-
cluding an elegant library and an observatory well pro-
vided with astronomical instruments.' The number of
the inhabitants is set down as 30,000, and notice is
taken of certain defects in Glasgow matters. 'The water
of their public pumps is generally hard and brackish
an imperfection the less excusable as the river Clyde
runs by their doors. . . . And there are rivulets and
springs above the Cathedral sufficient to fill a large
reservoir with excellent water, which might be thence
distributed to all the different parts of the city. It is
of more consecjuenco to consult the health of the in-
habitants in this article than to employ so much atten-
tion in beautifying their town with new streets, squares,
and churches. Another defect not so easily remedied
is the shallowness of the river. . . . The people of
Glasgow have a noble spirit of enterprise. . . . I be-
came acquainted with Mr Cochran, who may be styled
one of the sages of this kingdom. He was first magis-
trate at the time of the last rebellion. I sat as member
when lie was examined in the House of Commons, on
which occasion Mr Pfitt] observed he had never heard
such a sensible evidence given at that bar. I was also
introduced to Dr John Gordon, . . . who is the
father of the linen manufacture in this place, and was
the great promoter of the city workhouse, infirmary,
and other works of public utility, ... I moreover
conversed with Mr G[lassford], whom I take to be one
of the greatest merchants in Europe. In the last war
he is said to have had at one time five-and-twenty
ships with their cargoes his own property, and to have
116
GLASGOW
traded for above half a million sterling a year. The
last war was a fortunate period for the commerce of
Glasgow. The merchants, considering that their ships
bound for America, launching out at once into the
Atlantic by the north of Ireland, pursued a trade very
little frequented by privateers, resolved to insure one
another, and saved a very considerable sum by this
resolution, as few or none of their ships were taken.'
He again has a fling at the council, for Melford says
that the party was at once 'complimented with the
freedom of the town.' The comparative map given in
Mr Macgeorge's Old Glasgow shows that about the
same time, in 1773, the city extended along both sides
of High Street and Saltmarket, and was closely built
from Saltmarket to Stock-well Street, while buildings
extended westward along Argyle Street as far as Jamaica
Street ; northward as far as Castle Street, about the site
of the Royal Infirmary, and along Drygate, and as far
as Ark Lane opening off Duke Street ; eastward along
Gallowgate as far as Barrack Street, and along New
Street and Kirk Street ; and southward along both sides
of Main Street, Gorbals, and along a part of Rutherglen
Loan, Norfolk Street, and Clyde Terrace.
After the '45 the next important affair in which we
find the citizens of Glasgow engaged is the cordial effort
which they made to assist government at the outbreak
of the American war of independence. Now-a-days,
however, these exertions are attributed not so much to
patriotism, as to a feeling of self-interest, for Glasgow
had long enjoyed a lucrative and lion's share in the
tobacco trade, the very existence of which was threatened
by the war that had broken out. Upon the news of the
first determined stand made by the Americans at Lex-
ington and Bunker's Hill in 1775 reaching Glasgow, the
magistrates convened a meeting of the inhabitants, when
it was resolved to give all support to government in its
efforts to break the spirit of the colonists. A body of
1000 men was accordingly raised at an expense of more
than 10,000, and placed at the disposal of the Crown.
The determination to subdue the Americans took so
strong a hold on the minds of the Glasgow people, that
many of the principal citizens formed themselves into a
recruiting corps for the purpose of completing the num-
bers of the Glasgow regiment. Mr James Finlay, father
of Mr K. Finlay, alti-rwards of Castle-Toward, played
the bagpipes in the recruiting band ; Mr John Wardrop,
a Virginia merchant, beat a drum ; and other ' citizens of
credit and renown' officiated as fifcrs, standard bearers,
etc.; Mr Spiers of Elderslie, Mr Cunningham of Lain-
shaw, and other merchants hired their ships as trans-
ports, but Mr Glassford of Dugaldston, who was then
the most extensive foreign merchant in Glasgow, and
had twenty-five ships of his own, disapproving of the
coercive measures then in progress, laid up most of his
vessels in the harbour of Port Glasgow.
After being at peace internally for a long time there
was a fresh outburst of the mob spirit in 1779. There
were two ' No-Popery ' riots in January and February,
in the first of which the rioters attacked the congrega-
tion of a Roman Catholic chapel in High Street and
destroyed the altar piece. On the second occasion
their violence was directed against Robert Bagnal, a
potter, who was a Roman Catholic. His house near the
Gallowgate was set on fire and burned down along with
several adjoining houses, and his warehouse in King
Street was wrecked. Much damage was done during
the two days the city was in possession of the mob, and
the community had afterwards a heavy bill to pay for
the havoc whicli these thoughtless men committed. In
the same year a demonstration of weavers against tho
proposal to remit the duties on French cambric was
pi Me- t'nllv dispersed, but the same good fortune did
not attend the magistrates in 1787, when the weavers,
after agitating in vain for an increase of wages, tried to
gain their point by force. After many acts of violence
had been committed against the persons and property
of the men who continued working at the old rate-
webs being cut, and the contents of warehouses flung
into the street to be burned and the magistrates them-
selves stoned, the intervention of the military became
necessary, and a detachment of the 39th regiment under
Lieutenant-Colonel Kellet was summoned. Near Park-
house, in Duke Street, the soldiers were assailed with
brickbats by the mob, and the Riot Act having been
read they fired, killing three persons and wounding
' ' ' ' ' " fairly subdued
rious fact that
I into the very
itheirbrethreu.
ntury, and par-
n 1816 to 1820,
what threaten-
irul others. The riotous spirit
by this painful measure, and it is ;
afterwards many of the weavers enl
giment that had inflicted punishment
In the first quarter of the nineteenth
ticularly during the ' Radical Times ' fi
Glasgow was from time to time in a soi
ing condition, more especially in 1819 and 1820, when
the citizens were kept in a state of the most painful
excitement and suspense, as the working classes were in
great distress and strongly embued with a revolutionary
spirit. Nearly all who were taken prisoners at Bonny-
muir were men from Glasgow, and two of them were
executed at Stirling for high treason; while on 30 Aug.
1820, James Wilson, a weaver from Strathaven, was
hanged and beheaded on Glasgow Green, for his share
in the insurrectionary movements of the time.
From this time till 1848 the history of the city is a
record of progress and gradual growth in size and trade,
almost the only exciting episode being the furore attend-
ing the Disruption, and the subsequent second meeting
of the Free Church General Assembly in Glasgow in
October 1843. The year 1848 was, however, marked by
the outbreak of what was probably the most serious
burst of violence that ever occurred in Glasgow, not so
much on account of the events which actually took place
as from the disaster threatened and prevented, and from
the circumstance also that for a day or two a feeling of
the greatest insecurity and alarm prevailed over the
whole kingdom. In the first days of the month of
March so much distress existed amongst the lower orders
in Glasgow, from lack of work, that the authorities
engaged many of them to break stones until labour on a
more extensive scale could be provided. On the after-
noon and evening of Saturday 4 March meal was distri-
buted at the City Hall to almost all who chose to apply
for it. Meanwhile large meetings (ostensibly of the
unemployed) were daily held on the Green, and on Sun-
day, 5 March, at one of these great gatherings, political
harangues of a very inflammatory description were de-
livered by designing demagogues, who urged the people
to demand food or money as a right, irrespective of
any equivalent in the shape of labour. On Monday
the 6th another great meeting was held on the Green,
swelled by this time by all the thieves and desperadoes
in the city, who, from their usual dens in the wynds,
vennels, and closes, had scented the mischief that was
1 trowing, and sallied out to originate or augment con-
fusion and disorder that they might profit by the conse-
quences. After some hours had been spent in making
and listening to wild speeches, in which the mob were
counselled to ' do a deed worthy of the name of France,'
the whole multitude moved off to the City Hall to ascer-
' vhat measures the magistrates and relief committee
were taking on behalf of the unemployed. It was soon
evident, however, that it was neither food nor labour
that they wanted. After some of the Green Market
stalls had been overturned, the loaders drew them olf
towards the Green, whence, armed with bars torn from
iron railings and with bludgeons, they, about four o'clock
in the afternoon, once more entered the city, sacked the
bakers' and provision shops in London Street as they
passed along, and, reaching Trongate, attacked a gun-
maker's shop and took from it all the guns, pistols, and
ammunition. Hardware shops shared the same fate,
and the mob, now partially armed, dispersed in various
directions, but the main body, rifling the shops as they
went along, found their way by various avenues into
Ingram Street. From this the rioters spread all over
the city, constantly receiving accessions to their numbers
from all the thieves' haunts they passed, and devoting
their attention to every shop they came to where any
plunder was likely to be obtained. It was emphatically i
GLASGOW
a thieving raid on a most daring and majestic scale,
perpetrated in the light of open day. The more expe-
rienced thieves confiucd themselves to gold watches,
jewellery, and other valuables, and sneaked otf wheu
their pockets were full; but the scum of whatever neigh-
bourhood the mob approached took advantage of the
general license, and men, women, and children were
seen running through the streets to their own houses
with cheeses, chests of tea, firkins of butter, new boots
and shoes, and in short anything which came most
readily to hand. Had a body of 50 or 100 policemen
been led against the mob at the outset, the rioters would
have been scattered, but the whole matter was so sudden
that everybody was panic-stricken, police officials and
all. At length as the afternoon wore on, dragoons,
brought from the old cavalry barracks in Eglinton Street,
Gorbals, and the 1st Royal Regiment, made their appear-
ance on the scene, the Riot Act was read, and the cavalry
cleared the streets by making repeated charges, in the
course of which they destroyed three barricades (formed
by overturned carts) in King Street, Gallowgate, and
High Street, these being the first erections of the kind
ever seen in Glasgow. The citizens hurried in hundreds
to the Exchange, where they were sw r orn in as special
constables, after which they patrolled the streets in
strong parties dispersing the rioters in all directions.
Xext morning the military, reinforced by two companies
of the 71st i-egiment (sent from Edinburgh by special
train), were distributed throughout the city, and strong
bodies of special constables patrolled the streets ; but
about mid-day word was brought that, notwithstanding
these preparations, the mob had resolved to stop the
public mills and dismantle the gasworks, with the inten-
tion of utterly destroying the industrial and social order
of the city. A small body of veterans, aided by some
special constables and police officers, attacked a party
of the mob who were assailing the silk mill of Messrs
Campbell in John Street, but were unable to cope with
the force against them. In their retreat along John
Street they were so pressed that they at last fired,
killing one man and wounding several others, of whom
five subsequently died; and this volley, though fired
somewhat illegally, without the presence or order of a
magistrate, ended the disturbances. The value of pro-
perty destroyed and carried away and the expenses con-
nected with the riotsamountcdto7111, 9s. 5d. Thirty-
five of the ringleaders were convicted at the Spring
Circuit, and received sentences varying from eighteen
years' transportation to one year's imprisonment.
In 1857 the failure of the Great, Western Bank, brought
about by a commercial panic in America, caused much
anxiety, and so disturbed was the condition of things
that the magistrates sent to Edinburgh for addili.-.n.-il
troops, which, however, were not required. The call
per share was the ruinous one of 125.
In 1875, at the O'Connell celebration on 5 August,
serious riots occurred in Partick, a procession having
been attacked while passing through some of the streets.
The burgh was in a disturbed state for two days, during
which it was found necessary to read the Riot Act.
Though in the suppression of the disturbance there were
no lives lost many persons were severely injured. In
1878 the greatest of the city's modern misfortunes befel
in the failure, on 2 October, of the City of Glasgow Bank,
which, established in 1SS9. was with the exception of
a very brief period in 1857, at the time of the panic
caused by the failure of the Western Bank up almost to
the very day of its suspension, considered to be sound
and successful. The stoppage was followed by the failure
of a number of commercial firms witli liabilities to the
City of Glasgow Bank of about 12,000,000, while an
investigation of affairs brought out the fact that the bad
debts, which would have to be paid up by the share-
holders, amounted to 7,345,359, and subsequent calls
by the liquidators of 2750 per 100 of stock, left but
few solvent contributories. A fund of about 400,000
was raised throughout the country for the relief of ruined
shareholders, and its distribution brought some comfort
in many cases, while a charitable fund of over 27,000
117
GLASGOW
was expended in relieving the distress among the work-
ing classes.
Glasgow has, however, in the face of all disaster in-
variably shown great power of recovery for as we shall
.see in the section on Trade, as one industry declined
and ruin impended another has always arisen to take
its place and since 1878 the history of the city has
been, in the main, one of continued prosperity estab-
lished on a sounder basis than during the period of
inflation that preceded the failure of the City Bank.
The fewdisasters thathave occurred maybe noticed before
reference is made to the more pleasing features of pro-
gress. Of matters of minor importance may be men-
tioned first, the explosions which occurred in connec-
tion with the gasworks on 20 January 1883, and again
on 5 January 1891. By the former, one of the three
great gasometers on the south side was completely
shattered, while almost simultaneously other explosions
took place at the canal bridge at Maryhill and at
the Buchanan Street Station; and official investigation
proved that all the outrages had been perpetrated by
Irish agitators, of whom ten were ultimately arrested
and tried, five being sentenced to penal servitude for
life, and the others to penal servitude for seven years.
By the explosion of 1891 two of the gasometers at the
works at Dawsholm were completely wrecked, but this
time the occurrence was thought to be due to some
accidental cause. Second, the capsizing of the Daphne
steamer while being launched from Linthouse yard on
3 July 1883, by which 124 of the workmen employed
on board were drowned. Third, a panic and crush
following on a false alarm of fire at the Star Music Hall
on 1 November 1884, when 14 persons were killed and
20 injured. Fourth, an extensive strike among the
employees of the various railway companies at Christmas,
1890, which caused considerable inconvenience and even
danger. Of more serious commercial import was the
great falling oil' in the shipbuilding trade in 1884-87,
which not only caused a great deal of distress among
the workmen immediately concerned, but also brought
about stagnation among kindred industries. In 1883
the maximum tonnage ever recorded was reached (404,383
tons), 'activity in every yard was at its height, and
masters and men were perhaps too busy, it may be too
.sanguine, to take sulllei.-nt note of the fact, patent to
others, that the demands of a depressed commerce, then
and within a measurable prospective distance, did not
seem to justify so extraordinary an output. The ship-
owning concerns, great and small, seemed suddenly to
pause and take a survey of the times, to find that the
carrying capacity and speed-power of the shipping afloat
were greatly in excess of immediate requirements.
Thereupon fresh orders to the shipbuilder ceased with
never-to-be-forgotten suddenness, and speedily it became
apparent that bad times were in store for the trade, for
master and workman alike. From the middle of 1883
the contracts on hand were numerous enough to con-
tribute a fair amount of labour during some months
thereafter; but as one vessel after another was put into
the river, its place in the yard remained vacant, and
those employed on it were discharged.' In 1884 the
tonnage launched was only 262,000, and worse times
were in store, as it was still lower in the following year.
(See CLYDE.) The industry revived considerably in 1888
and the succeeding years, but is still subject to great
fluctuations, the number of vessels built in 1S95 having
been only 227, including 44 sailing and 183 steam
vessels.
On 16 June 1S87 the citizens celebrated with the
heartiest loyalty the Jubilee of Queen Victoria. The
city was gaily decorated throughout, and the day's
celebrations began with a thanksgiving service in the
Cathedral, conducted by ministers connected with the
Established, Free, and U.P. Churches, and officially
attended by the Town Council and the other leading
public bodies. Thereafter 6000 poor people were enter-
tained to dinner by the Corporation; a grand review of
regulars and volunteers took place en the Green, a
banquet was given in the Corporation Galleries, per-
GLASGOW
formances of vocal and instrumental music were given
on the Green and in Kelvingrove, Queen's, and Alex-
andra Parks, and a great ball was given by the Corpor-
ation in St Andrew's Halls. For the Imperial Institute,
Glasgow made the highest contribution (7404) of any
town in the kingdom, and was over all only sin pass. ,1
in the amount by the counties of Sussex and Surrey;
while Her Majesty was pleased to direct that a replica
of the statue of the Prince Consort in George Square
should be erected in Windsor Great Park as a personal
memorial of the Women's Jubilee Offering. Similar
rejoicings again took place in 1897, Her Majesty's
Diamond Jubilee, on the completion of her 60th year's
reign. The school children of the city were entertained
on Saturday, June 19, in the various public parks; the
magistrates attended divine service on Sunday the 20th
in the Cathedral; a military tournament and review took
place in the Queen's Park on Tuesday; over 6000 poor
received a dinner and many others were treated at home;
a banquet was held in the City Chambers, the city was
gaily decorated, and numerous pyrotechnic displays
were given in the evening. It was resolved to rebuild
the older part of the Royal Infirmary as a memorial of
the Diamond Jubilee. During these sixty years of
Queen Victoria's reign the population of Glasgow in-
creased from 249,000 to 833,000, and the revenue of the
various departments of the Corporation, the tonnage of
registered shipping, and the revenue of the Clyde have
increased enormously.
The year 1888 is memorable for the International
Exhibition of Industry, Science, and Art, which, opened
in buildings erected lor the purpose on the S side of
Kelvingrove Park, on 8 May, and closed on 10 Novem-
ber, was, during that period, visited by 5,748,379 persons.
The buildings, erected at a cost of 83,800, covered a
space of 13| acres, and the whole ground enclosed
(including part of the University grounds) was 77
acres, while the total amount drawn was 225,928.
After deduction of expenses a surplus remained of
47,000, which was appropriated as the nucleus of a
fund for the erection of public Art Galleries. The
Exhibition was opened by the Prince and Princess of
Wales, was visited by the Queen in state on 22 and
privately on 24 August, and had among its other dis-
tinguished visitors the King of Belgium, the Princess
Louise and the Marquis of Lome, Princess Beatrice and
Prince Henry of Battenberg, and the Duke of Cam-
bridge. The other leading incidents of municipal pro-
gress have been the erection (1883-89) and occupation
of the new Municipal Buildings or City Chambers, which
were formally opened by the Queen on the occasion of
Her Majesty's state visit to the Exhibition, and saw
their second official function when the Shah of Persia
was presented with an address of welcome in 1889; the
extension of the municipal boundary (already noticed)
n 1891; the introduction of electric lighting for part
of the city in 1893, which was much extended and spread
over a wider area in 1897; and the constitution, by Act
of Parliament in 1893, of the whole municipal area as a
County of a City, with lord-lieutenant, deputy-lieuten-
ants, a commission of the peace, and a court of general
and quarter-sessions for itself, under the same existing
' enactments, laws, and usages, as are applicable to the
County of the City of Edinburgh.'
Commerce. According to M'Ure, the first 'promoter
and propagator' of trade in Glasgow was William Elphin-
stone, a cadet of the noble family of Elphinstone, who
settled in the city in the reign of King James I. of
Scotland about 1420, and became a merchant. He is
mentioned as a curer of salmon and herrings for the
French market, for which brandy and salt were brought
back in return. The name of Fuller's Gate, applied at
an early period to the Saltmarket,
that there was some manufactur
trade in dyeing is indicated by
also to imply
that there was some manufacture of cloth; and a small
early prohibition of
any but a burgess from dyeing cloth. The perso
tioned as the second ' promoter ' of trade is Archibald
Lyon, son of Lord Glamis, who, coming to Glasgow with
Archibald Dunbar, 'undertook great adventures and
in trading to Poland, France, and Holland.'
time, however, the foreign trade must have
been of an extremely limited character ; but from the
occasional mention in the council records of merchants
proceeding to the English markets and bringing homo
merchand waires, ' it is evident that in the early part
of the 17th century the inhabitants conducted a fair
amount of inland traffic. In 1597 the shipping of
Glasgow seems to have been 6 ships, the largest of 92
tons, and the smallest of 38 tons, the total tonnage being
296. In 1650 Franck says that the commercial trans-
actions of the Glasgow merchants were extensive. He
mentions particularly the free trade with France, and
adds that ' the staple of the country consists of linens,
I'riez3s, furs, tartans, pelts, hides, tallow, skins, and
various other small manufactures and commodities.'
Commissioner Thomas Tucker, in reporting to Cromwell
in 1656 'on the settlement of the Revenues of Excise
and Customs in Scotland,' says, that Glasgow was a
considerable burgh both for structure and trade. With
the exception of the students of the college all the in-
habitants were ' traders and dealers some for Ireland
with small smiddy coals in open boats from four to ten
tons, from whence they bring hoops, rungs, barrel
staves, meal, oats, and butter; some for France with
;>ladding, coals, and herring, of which there is a great
fishing yearly in the western sea, for which they return
salt, pepper, rosin, and prunes; some to Norway for
timber; and every one with theyr neighbours the High-
landers, who come hither from the Isles and Western
parts in summer . . . into the Clwyde with pladd-
ing, dry hides, goate, kid, and deere skins which they
sell, and purchase witli theyr price such commodityes
and provisions as they stand in neede of from time to
time. There have been likewise some who have ven-
tured as far as the Barbadoes, but the losse which they
sustained by being obliged to come home late in the
year has made them discontinue going thither any
more.' The mercantile genius of the people is strong,
if they were not checked and kept under by the shallow-
ness of their river, every day more and more diminishing
and filling up, ' soe that noe vessel of any burden can
come up nearer than within 14 miles, where they must
unlade and send up theyr timber and Norway trade in
rafts or floats, and all other commodities by throe or
foure tons of goods at a time in small cobbles or boats
of three, four, or five, and none above six tonnes a boat.
There is in this place a collector, a cheque, and four
wayters. There are twelve vessels belonging to the
merchants of the port, viz.: three of 150 tons each, one
of 140, two of 100, one of 50, three of 30,.one of 15, and
one of 12, none of which come up to the' town total,
957 tons,' so that in little more than half a century the
shipping had increased more than three times. In 1605,
during the war with the Dutch, the George of Glasgow-
sailed under letters of marque, and, though of little more
than 60 tons, was dignified by the name of a 'friggutc.'
She carried 60 men, and was provided with 5 pieces of
ordnance, 32 muskets, 12 half pikes, 18 pole axes, 30
swords, 3 barrels of powder, and provisions for six
months. There seem to have been also other privateers
belonging to the city, for in the London Gaulle of
Nov. 8, 1666, it is noticed that a ' privateer of Glasgow,
one Chambers, has lately brought in a Dutch caper of
8 guns, with a prize ship laden with salt.' In 1674 a
company for carrying on the whale fishery and soap-
making was formed in Glasgow. The company em-
ployed five ships, and had extensive premises at Greenock
for boiling blubber and curing fish, known by the name
of the Royal Close. An advertisement from the com-
pany appeared in the Glasgow Courant on 11 Nov.
1715, being the first advertisement in the first news-
paper published in the W of Scotland, intimating that
' any one who wants good black or speckled soap may be
served by Robert Luke, Manager of the Soaperie at
Glasgow, at reasonable rates.' The soaperie then stood
at the head of Candleriggs. In relating the progress of
trade in Glasgow subsequent to 16C8, M'Ure instances
the case of Walter Gibson, who, in one year, packed and
cured 300 lasts of herrings at 6 sterling per last of 12
barrels, and having freighted a Dutch ship, called the
HI Agatha, of 450 tons, he despatched ship and cargo
to St Martin's in France, where he got for each barrel
of herring a barrel of brandy and a crown, and the ship
at her return was loaded with salt and brandy. The
produce came to a very large sum, with which ho
bought this vessel and other two large ships and traded
to France, Spain, Norway, Sweden, and Virginia. This
enterprising merchant was the first who brought iron to
Glasgow, the shopkeepers having previously been sup-
plied from the ports on the E coast.
After the Restoration Scotland was treated by the
English Parliament as an alien country, and the English
ports were practically closed against Scotch traders, and
it was the Union, to which it had offered such violent
opposition, that first brought a fresh great stimulus to the
commerce of Glasgow. In 1692 there were fifteen ships
belonging to Glasgow, the burden varying from 30 to
160 tons, and the total tonnage being 1182, or an increase
in 40 years of about one-fourth. The Union, however,
opened up the trade with the colonies, and soon there-
after we find the Glasgow merchants sending out their
'adventures' to Virginia and Maryland, and bringing
back tobacco leaf in return. They did not at this time
possess any suitable ships of their own, and were accord-
ingly obliged to charter them, which they did prin-
cipally from the port of Whitehaven. In these early
enterprises a supercargo, sent out with each vessel,
disposed of the goods and purchased the tobacco, all
the transactions being for ready money. This mode of
managing business prospered, and the Glasgow mer-
chants, instead of hiring from their neighbours, began
to build ships of their own, and in 1718 the first vessel
that belonged to Glasgow owners crossed the Atlantic.
She was built at Greenock, and registered only 60 tons.
From the economy of this ready-money system, and
probably also from the merchants being contented witli
moderate profits, the Glasgow tobacco-houses ere long
not only secured the lion's share of the foreign export
trade, but even undersold the English merchants in
their own home markets, and this led to a combination
against them by the dealers of London, Liverpool,
Bristol, and Whitehaven, and a complaint to the
Government that the Glasgow traders conducted their
business upon, and reaped their advantages from, a
system of fraud on the public revenue. A searching
investigation, held in 1721, resulted in the Lords of the
Treasury finding 'that the complaints of the merchants
of London, Bristol, Liverpool, Whitehaven, etc., are
groundless, and proceed from a spirit of envy, and not
from a regard to the interests of trade or of the King's
revenue.' The English merchants, not satisfied with
this finding and rebuke, made in the following year
formal complaint to Parliament, and the commissioners
who were sent down to the Clyde imposed so many
vexatious restrictions on the trade that it languished
and struggled for its very life. Expensive and harass-
ing lawsuits followed, and it was not till 1735 that the
Glasgow traders were able fairly to beat oil' the annoy-
ance of the English ports. Defoe, in his tour through
Scotland in 1T23, says that there twenty or thirty ships
came every year from the plantations with tobacco and
sugar, and later, in the edition of 1727, he says, 'they
now send near fifty sail of ships every year to Virginia,
New England, and other English colonies in America;'
and he points out the great advantage Glasgow had
over London, by the ships not having to go down the
Channel, so that they were often ' at the Capes of Vir-
houses over their English rivals, the trade was conducted
on more liberal principles, partners or resident agents
being established throughout the tobacco-producing
colonies; the trade increased prodigiously, and princely
fortunes were realized. Soon after this time the number
of ships, brigantines, and sloops belonging to Glasgow
GLASGOW
amounted to sixty-seven; and besides an important
coasting trade, voyages were made to A'irginia, Jamaica,
Antigua, St Kitts, Barbadoes, Gibraltar, Holland,
Stockholm, and Ireland. The halcyon era of the to-
bacco trade is reckoned from 1740 till the declaration of
American Independence, and during this period by far
the greater portion of the whole disposable capital of the
city was embarked in it. l~n 1771, of the 90,000 hogs-
heads of tobacco imported into Great Britain, over
49,000 came to Glasgow alone, while about the same
time the shipping belonging to Glasgow and the Clyde
was about 60,000 tons. This seems to have been the
culminating year of the tobacco trade, for in 1774 the
number of hogsheads imported was 40,543, and in the
following year the outbreak of the American AVar ruined
the trade and most of those engaged in it. The import-
ance of this traffic explains the alacrity and seeming
patriotism displayed in raising troops to assist the
government in their efforts to suppress the rising.
Although the ruin of the great tobacco trade had thus
come, the Glasgow merchants, so far from sitting down
and weeping, immediately proceeded with characteristic
energy to seek fresh fields for their enterprise and
capital, and the AVcst India trade, which had for some
time back been engaging their attention, was extended
and developed so greatly that it soon took the place of
the lost tobacco trade, and the West India magnates
took the place of the fallen tobacco lords. The applica-
tion of steam to navigation, which was by-and-by to
work such wonders for the Clyde, took place at Glasgow
about 1801, when Symington constructed for Lord Dun-
das a steamboat called the Charlotte Dundas, which
plied for a short time on the Forth and Clyde Canal,
but was stopped, as the directors were afraid the banks
might be damaged. In 1811 Henry Bell, a millwright,
a native of Torphichen, made a still further advanee in
a boat 40 feet long and 12 feet of beam, called the
Comet, which was built from designs by himself, with
,
an engine made by John Robertson of Glasgow, and a
y David Napier. It plied between Glasgow,
k, and Helensburgh, and was the pioneer of th
boiler by David
Greenock, and ,
busy fleet that now throng the waters of the river.
Within the next two years other three steamers, with
much more powerful engines, also began to ply. The
number of vessels owned in Glasgow at this time was
thirty-five, with a tonnage of 2620.
In 1816 still another trade was opened up, when
James Finlay & Co. despatched a ship of 600 tons
(the Earl of Buckingham) to Calcutta the first vessel
that cleared direct from a Scottish port to the East
Indies. Other merchants followed the example of this
enterprising firm, of which the well-known and able
Kirkmau Finlay was then the head, and the trade soon
became a valuable and extensive one, and now employs
some of the largest and iinest of both the sailing vessels
and sea-going steamers of the Clyde, from Glasgow,
Greenock, and Port Glasgow. Of late years it has in-
creased very rapidly. The trade to China and a new
trado to France have since been added, and the inter-
course with Canada, South America, Australia, New
Zealand, and other parts has become vastly extended.
The trade witli the United States has latterly grown to
don
ill magnitude as to bo exceeded only by that of Lon-
' In 1S-10 Messrs Burns founded the
and Li.-!.,
great Cunard Line of steamers, with the Sirius, a
dverpool.
ard Line ,
vessel of 2000 tons, and the first steamer that crossed
the Atlantic. So well did they succeed that by-and-by
another was built for the same trade, and in 1S56
ilessrs Handyside & Henderson founded the Anchor
Line, also plying to New York, while the Allan Line
had been founded to carry on trade by steam with
Canada. Since then other lines have been formed, and
now there is regular steam communication with almost
every part of the world at frequent intervals with Aber-
deen, Belfast, Girvan, the West Highlands, Liverpool,
Londonderry, Portugal, Spain, all the Mediterranean
ports, the Black Sea, New York, Boston, Philadelphia,
Halifax, St John, New Brunswick, and various ports in
South America, the West Indies, India, China, and
120
GLASGOW
Japan. Glasgow lias likewise been, since 1842, very pro-
minent as an emigration port for British North America,
the United States, and Australia. The number of emi-
grants varies of course with the state of trade. The
total number in the period 1876-80 was 86,380 (27,962
foreigners); 1881-85, 182,779 (72,468 foreigners); and
1886-90, 174,442 (62,697 foreigners). Of those leaving,
about 60 per cent, are Scotch, and over 30 per
foreigners; while 70 to 80 per ce
to the United States and 10 per
number of English and Irish emigrants from Glasgow
has in recent years shown a marked falling off, as has
also the proportion of those who go to Canada and Aus-
tralasia. The smallest number leaving from Glasgow
in recent years was 10,007 in 1877, and the laigest
49,097 in 1882.
The commerce of Glasgow with other countries and
with the British Colonies is indeed about as compre-
hensive and widespread as any profitable commerce with
them can well be made, while the coasting trade, both
by steamers and by sailing vessels, is at once minute and
enormous. As an illustration of how some branches
increase, we may mention that an export trade to
France, which hardly existed before 1860, rose in one
year to the large value of 367,000; and while in 187T
only fourteen ships with 7197 tons of grain arrived in
the harbour, in 1895 the quantity imported, including
maize and flour, was 435,771 tons.
The following table shows the vessels registered as
belonging to Glasgow, at intervals from the 16th ecu-
tury onwards :
Yea,
Sailing
Vessels.
Tonnage.
1,013
Tonnage.
Total 1 Total
Vessels.|Tonnage.
1597
1656
1692
1810
1820
1880
1851
18C1
1891
6
12
15
24
608
657
576
663
296
957
1,182
I,fP56
178,l'46
281 ',844
378,767
502,436
45,668
152, IT 2
814',373
6
12
15
24
77
217
431
508
679
895
1,258
1,576
296
967
i
6,131
39,432
95,062
145684
218,804
433.016
81(7,488
1,316.81)9
In 1895 there were 571 sailing-vessels of 572.568 tons,
and 1099 steam-vessels of 952,758 tons.
The follow ng table shows the arrivals in the harbour,
at intervals of ten years, for the last fifty years:
Year.
1841
1851
1861
1871
1891
AKR.VALS.
Sailing
Vessels.
Tonnage.
314.262
421,7s-,
474.74'!
4(!l.(K)il
369,663
239,3.14
Steam
Vesnel ;.
Tonnage.
Total
Vessels.
ir,.-j'i;
17.274
16,058
15.800
17.763
16.135
Total
Tonnage
1,142,373
1.446,606
i ., .1
2."4i>,7<8
3,375,109
6,785
6,212
4.&04
3,087
1,948
1,860
9,421
',1$
lL',71.1
1531">
828,111
1,021,821
1,029,480
1 ,588,6! 9
2,687,970
3,135,775
In 1895 there were 947 sailing-vessels of 145,441 tons,
and 8947 steam-vessels of 2,993,430 tons.
The rapid rise since about 1820 and present condition
of the whole foreign commerce of the port, will be best
seen from these and the other tables, especially in that
mvin<' the customs revenue. Some of the results are
very striking, especially when it is kept in mind that
about 1861 a large department of the commerce sustained
a severe shock from the effects of the American war. It
is also worthy of notice, and in contrast to the experience
of most of the other ports of the United Kingdom, that
Glasgow commerce possesses an elasticity which has al-
most always exhibited a progressive increase of customs
' nue, and seldom, leaving the abnormally high years
t of account, a large falling oil, in
,
of 1866 and 1867
spite of the freq
have taken place
era of 1844.
emissions of heavy duties winch
the inauguration of the free trade
GLASGOW
The value of British and foreign produce and manu-
facture exported and the customs revenue have been:
Year.
1811
ill
1881
1891
Value of British
and Foreign Produce
and Manufacture.
Customs Revenue
at Glasgow.
2,007,192
5,259,887
9,853,057
14.459,866
526,100
676,044
924,445
899,572
l!o96'sil
In 1895 they were 13,406,927 and 1,268,469.
The revenue iu 1656 was 554, and in 1812, when
Glasgow became a port independent of Tort Glasgow,
only 3124; in 1820, 11,000; in 1830, 59,014. The
highest customs revenue obr.-iined at Glasgow was in
1868, when it reached the sum of 1,352,246, 12s. 5d.;
and in 1867, 1869, 1872, 1873, 1876, 1877, 1881, 1890,
1891, 1892, and 1893 it exceeded one million of pounds
sterling; while in intermediate years it fell but little
below that sum, the smaller amounts being due to the
abolition or reduction of duties.
Manufactures and Industries. The manufactures and
industries of Glasgow present a most wonderful com-
bination. So singularly varied and extensive are they,
that the city 'combines several of the special charac-
teristics of other cities. It has the docks and ports of
Liverpool, the tall chimneys and manufactories of Man-
chester, with the shops of Regent Street, and the best
squares of Belgravia.' 'Glasgow,' says Dr Strang,
' unites within itself a portion of the cotton-spinning
and weaving manufactures of Manchester, the printed
calicoes of Lancashire, the stuffs of Norwich, the shawls
and moussclines of France, the silk-throwing of Maccles-
iield, the flax-spinning of Ireland, the carpets of Kid-
derminster, the iron and engineering works of Wolver-
liampton and Birmingham, the pottery and glass-mak-
ing of Staffordshire and Newcastle, the shipbuilding of
London, the coal trade of the Tyne and Wear, and all
the handicrafts connected with, or dependent on, the
full development of these. Glasgow has also its dis-
tilleries, breweries, chemical works, tan-works, dye-
elds, and paper manufactor
staple and fancy handloom
ufactories, beside
fabrics which
works, bleachfields, and
vast number of staple an
may be strictly said to belong to that locality.' The
textile factories lie to the E, while the engineering shops
and foundries lie to the N, NE, and S, and the ship-
building yards are to the W.
We have already seen that there are some traces of
early manufacture of cloth in Glasgow, but in all pro-
bability it was very small. When the letter of Gnildry
was granted in 1G05, we have evidence in it that silk,
linen, and hardware, etc., from France, Flanders, and
England, were dealt iu, and that there were manufac-
tures of wool and linen cloth. The first manufactory
the city possessed was a weaving establishment stalled
in 1638 by Robert Fleyming, who obtained from the
magistrates a lease of some premises in the Drygatc. It
was not till after the Union, however, that any of them
attained prominence, when linen and cotton cloth and
plaidings were tried. The manufacture of plaiding
indeed, as we have already seen from Mr Commissioner
Tucker's report, seems to have made some progress in the
middle of the 17th century; but it must have greatly
advanced, for in the close of the century Glasgow plaid's
had attained some celebrity in Edinburgh, then the
aristocratic centre of the kingdom. The inhabitants
were proud of their handiwork, for we find that in 1715
the magistrates presented to the Princess of Wales,
afterwards the Queen of George II., 'a swatch of plaids
as the manufactory peculiar only to this place for keep-
ing the place in Her Highness' remembrance, and which
might contribute to the advantage thereof, and to the
advancement of the credit of that manufactory' a gift
which Her Royal Highness graciously received, and re-
turned her 'hearty thanks to the magistrats of Glasgow
for their fyne present.' The commerce with America
seems to have first suggested and encouraged the intro-
very grei
as their i
GLASGOW
duction of manufactures into the city on a more
extended plan than the home trade which had pre-
viously existed. Delbe, in the first edition of his
Journey, in 1723, makes no mention of any industry,
eM-.-piinr, tobacco and sugar; but in a subsequent
edition, 1727, he mentions, besides two sugar-baking
houses and a distillery, that ' Here there is a manufac-
ture of plaiding, a stuff crossed-striped with yellow, red,
and other mixtures, for the plaids or veils worn by the
women in Scotland, 'and also 'a manufacture of muslins,
which they make so good and fine that great quantities
of them are sent into England and to the British plan-
tations, where they sell at a good price. They are
generally striped, and are very much used for aprons by
the ladies, and sometimes in head-cloths by the meaner
sort of English women.' He says there also was 'a
linen manufacture, but as that is in common with all
parts of Scotland, which improve in it daily, I will not
' ' t upon it as a peculiar here, though they make a
great quantity of it and send it to the plantations
eir principal merchandise.' The importance of the
linen weaving in Glasgow is said to date from 1700, and
to be somewhat peculiar. Ure, in his History of Kuther-
glen and East Kilbride, tells of a William Wilson, a
native of East Kilbride, who took the name of William
Flakefield from the place at which he had lived. Along
with his father and brother he went to Glasgow near
the close of the 17th century, but ere he had been there
long he joined the Scottish Guards and went to the
Continent, where his attention was attracted by a Ger-
man handkerchief woven in blue and white chequers.
So much was he struck by it that, having been brought
up as a weaver, he determined to weave one like it
whenever he had an opportunity. When he at length
returned to Glasgow in 1700 he brought his handker-
chief with him, and after many patient trials and
failures he succeeded in making a number like it the
first of the kind ever woven in Great Britain. They
were at once successful and met with a ready sale, looms
multiplied, and in a few years Glasgow had become
famous for this new branch of the linen trade. Every-
one who engaged in it made money except the unfor-
tunate who introduced it, and who, whether from want
of capital or from some return to his early roving
habits, died in poverty, with the appointment of town
drummer.
The legislature granted great encouragement to the
making of linen in Scotland, and by this the trade in
Glasgow was so fostered that the city began to assume
importance as a manu facturing town. An Act of Parlia-
ment passed in 1748 prohibiting the importing or
ties
and another passed
penalt
allowing weavers in flax
of Scotland, free from all corporation dues conjoined
with the bounty of U 2 d. per yard on all linens exported
at or under Is. Gd. per yard, contributed largely at the
outset to the success of the linen trade. Between 1730
and 1745 many new industries were introduced into the
city. Glasgow was the first place in Great Britain in
which inkle wares were manufactured. In 1732 a Glas-
gow citizen named Harvey brought away from Haarlem,
at the risk of his life, two inkle looms and a workman,
and by this means fairly succeeded in establishing the
manufacture in Glasgow, and breaking the Dutch mono-
poly in the article. The Dutch workman lie had brought
with him afterwards took offence and went to Manches-
ter, and introduced the inkle manufacture there. Gib-
son, in his History of /.'/nvimr, gives an account of the
manufactures and industries in 1771, and it is worth
noticing, as he seems to have taken great pains to
make it exact. He mentions different kinds of linen,
checkered handkerchiefs, diaper, damask, cambric, lawn,
muslin handkerchiefs, ' Glasgows ' or lawn mixed with
cotton, and Carolines, which are the chief things. Be-
sides these there were industries in brushes, combs,
horn, and ivory; copper, tin, and white iron; dclf and
stonewares; gloves, handkerchiefs, silk, and linen;
men's hats, jewellery, inkles, iron, tanned leather,
GLASGOW
printed linens, ropes, saddlerv, shoes, stockings, and
thread; and Spencer, in his English Traveller (1771),
mentions as the industries the herring trade, the tobacco
trade, the manufacture of woollen cloth, stockings, shal-
loons, and cottons ; muslins, the sugar trade, distill-
ing, the manufacture of boots and shoes, and other
leather goods, including saddles; and the mauul'acture
of house furniture.
The vast improvements which were effected in the
production of cotton yarn by the inventions of Har-
greaves and Sir Richard Arkwright gave still a fresh
impulse to the manufactures affected, and capital, seek-
ing new outlets alter the failure of the tobacco trade,
was invested largely in cotton manufacture. Through
the subsequent improvements effected on the steam
engine by James Watt, it became no longer necessary
for mills to be erected only where a large water supply
was available, and it was possible to raise them in the
midst of a rich coal field, and alongside of a navigable
river with a port. The first steam engine used in Glas-
gow for spinning cotton was erected in Jan. 1792. It
was put up at Springfield, on the S side of the Clyde,
opposite the lower steamboat quay. This work, which
at that time belonged to Mr Todd, and later to Todd and
Higginbotham, was removed at immense expense, in
virtue of the Clyde Trustees Act of 1840 to allbrd space
for the extension of the harbour. The works of Messrs
S. Higginbotham & Co. are now to the E, opposite
Glasgow Green, and at them spinning, weaving, dyeing,
and printing arc carried on very extensively. A power-
loom had, however, been introduced previously. Ac-
cording to Pagan, ' the power-loom was introduced to
Glasgow in 1773 by Mr James Louis Robertson of Dun-
blane, who set up two of them in Argyle Street, which
were set in motion by a large Newfoundland dog per-
forming the part of a gin horse.' This statement lias
since, however, in 1871, in letters to the Glasgow Herald,
been disputed by Mr John Robertson, a Pollokshaws
power-loom tenter, who asserts that a man named Adam
Kinloch, whom he met in 1845, and who was then eighty-
five years of age, ' made the first two power-looms that
ever were made in the world, and drove them with the
use of a crank by his own hand in a court off the Gallow-
gate' in 1793. About 1794 there were 40 looms fitted up
t Milton, and in 1801 Mr John Monteith had 200 looms
at work at Pollokshaws near Glasgow, and the exten-
sion of power-loom factories and of the cotton trade
generally became so rapid as almost to exceed belief.
In 1818 there were within the city 'eighteen steam weav-
ing factories, containing 2800 looms, and producing 8400
pieces of cloth weekly.' There were altogether 52 cotton
mills in the city, with 511,200 spindles, the total length
woven being over 100,000,000 yards, and the value up-
wards of 5,000,000. There were also in the city 18
calico printing works and 17 calendering houses. In
1854 the number of cotton spinning factories was 39, of
cotton weaving factories 37, of cotton spinning and
weaving factories 16, the number of spindles was
1,014,972, the number of power-looms 22,335, and the
number of persons employed 24,414.
The woollen manufactures in most of their depart-
ments are much less prominent in Glasgow and its
neighbourhood than in many other parts of Scotland.
The manufacture of carpets, introduced first in 1757, is,
however, carried on to a considerable extent, and em-
ploys a number of hands. In 1854 there were 7 worsted,
spinning, and weaving factories, with 14,392 spindles,
120 power-looms, and 800 hands. In 1861 there were
11,748 spindles, 14 power-looms, and 1422 hands; 'and
though since then considerable fluctuations have been
caused by the disturbed condition of trade arising from
the state of the coal and iron industries in 1873-74, and
subsequently from the failure of the City of Glasgow
Bank in 1878, there has been on the whole a propor-
tional increase.' One work alone at Greenhead now
employs upwards of 500 hands, and the annual value of
the trade is nearly 200,000. There are also a number
of silk and rope, ttax and jute factories, which, in 1854,
had 74,705 spindles and 2050 hands. In 1861 they had
122
44,224 spindles, 231 power-looms, and 220C hands; and
here again a fitting increase has taken place.
Altogether about one-eighth of the population of Glas-
gow, between the ages of 10 and 40, are employed in
connection with these factories with their accompany-
ing processes of bleaching, dyeing, and printing. An
establishment for the manufacture of bandanas was
started at Barrowfield in 1802 by Messrs Monteith,
Bogle, & Co., and the superior manufacture of the
article itself and the successful application of the Tur-
key-red dye have given to Glasgow bandanas a fame and
a preference in almost every commercial mart in the
world, and rendered this one of the staple industries in
the city, for the manufacture, now shared in by other
companies, is carried on upon a scale of great magnitude.
Independently of this the manufacturing operations of
various other parts in Scotland are kept in motion by
Glasgow capital, and even in the North of Ireland large
numbers of the muslin weavers are in the direct and con-
stant employment of Glasgow houses. The manufacture
of sewed muslin is carried on by over 50 firms in Glasgow,
and employs more than 10,000 women. In 1891 the
textile factories in Glasgow were: 7 cotton spinning
3 often not fully employed 46 cotton weaving, 3 worsted
spinning, 4 weaving unions of cotton and wool, 4 sewing
thread, 12 cotton winding and warping, 6 cotton doubling
and twisting, 6 silk winding and throwing, 4 silk weav-
ing, 3 roperies, 2 lace, 8 carpet, 4 hair, 3 jute, 7 heddlo
makers, 10 waste (wool and cotton); total, 129. Of the
other industries the chief were 3 calico printing works,
26 bleaching and dyeing works, 73 calendering and
finishing works, 15 boot and shoe works, 20 undercloth-
ing and mantle works, 2 blast furnaces, 19 boiler
makers, 127 foundries, 129 makers of machinery, 12 iron
and steel shipbuilders, 11 soap manufacturers, 23 paint
and varnish makers, 22 oil and oil-cake makers, 11 glass
makers, 32 chemical works, 63 bread and biscuit bakers,
10 preserve (fruit) makers, 35 aerated water makers, 21
flour and grain millers, 37 furniture makers, 59 saw-
millers, 20 potteries, 26 brick and tile makers, 117
letterpress printers, 48 lithographers, 21 box and pack-
ing-case makers, 20 tobacco manufacturers, 3 iron tube
The soft goods trade is, as might be expected, largely
developed in Glasgow, and the retail and wholesale
trades are often united, the merchants importing goods
largely from England and abroad, and sending them
out wholesale to smaller traders situated in almost
every village and town in Scotland, and not a few in
Ireland; and, notwithstanding the magnitude of such
transactions, the poorest customer is supplied as readily
and courteously with a piece of tape as the richest with an
order of a very much more extensive nature. Of the two
gentlemen, brothers, who originated this mixed whole-
sale and retail soft goods trade, one filled the office of
chief magistrate of the city, and was knighted. For the
purposes of their business they, in 1858, erected in In-
gram Street a large block of buildings in the old Scot-
tish style. Another firm who started about 1850 at first
occupied rented premises, but ultimately purchased these,
and by additions and extensions are now perhaps the
largest soft goods traders in the kingdom.
Chemical manufactures were commenced in Glasgow
in 1786, when Mr Charles Macintosh, so well-known for
some of his discoveries in applied chemistry, introduced
into Glasgow from Holland the manufacture of sugar of
lead. This article had been previously imported from
the latter country, but in a very short time the tables
were turned, and instead of importing it Glasgow sent
considerable quantities to Rotterdam. About the same
time the firm established the manufacture of cudbear,
an article of great importance in connection with
dyeing. In 1799 Mr Macintosh also made the first
preparation of chloride of lime in a dry state, which has
since been so extensively prized and used as a bleaching
powder, and still later he established the well-known
manufacture of waterproof cloths, which has, however,
latterly been transferred to Manchester. In 1800 the
chemical manufactures of Glasgow received a fresh great
GLASGOW
impulse from the erection by Messrs Tennant, Kuox, and
(Jo., of a chemical work at St Rollox, in the northern
district of Glasgow, for the manufacture of sulphuric
acid, chloride of lime, soda, soap, etc. This is now one
of the most extensive chemical works in the world,
and the firm have connections and agencies in every
considerable mart both at home and abroad. In 1843
the company erected a ' monster chimney ' for the pur-
pose of carrying off, and preventing injury irom, any
noxious gases that might arise in the process of their
manufacture. It was erected at a cost of about 12,000,
and measures 40 feet in diameter at the base, and is 435J
feet high above ground. It is still counted one of the
.sights of the city, though since 1857 it has been over-
topped by the chimney of Messrs. Townshend's chemical
works, which though only 32 feet in diameter lias a
height of 454 feet above ground.
The manufacture of bottles and bottle glass was com-
menced at Glasgow in 1730, the first bottle-house being
about where the S end of Jamaica Street now is, and
probably near the site of the Custom House. At first
the trade does not seem to have been very brisk, for
the workmen were only employed for four months in
the year, but now the manufacture is carried on very
extensively in Anderston and Port Dundas. The manu-
facture of flint glass was begun in 1777 by Messrs
Cookson & Co. of Newcastle, and under other firms is still
carried on with great vigour. The earthenware manu-
facture was commenced at Delftlield, near the Broomie-
law, in 1748. This was the first pottery in Scotland,
but for a long period the quality was decidedly inferior
to the English make, and the goods produced only of
the lowest quality, and the consumption in consequence
mostly local. Since, however, about 1829, and more
especially since 1842, the manufacture has been greatly
increased and improved. New establishments have been
erected, and the productions have attained a beauty of
design and a delicacy of finish which now enable them to
compete successfully in all departments, and in both the
home and foreign markets, with the well-known Stafford-
shire ware. There were in 1896 about twenty potteries
within the city, the largest being at Garngad Hill, where
about 1000 hands are employed. The manufactures in-
clude every kind of product from the coarsest earthen-
ware to the finest porcelain, and the exports, both coast-
wise and foreign, amount to over 12,000 tons a year.
The rope manufacture, which dates from 1696, is con-
siderable, and so is the brush trade, which was first
introduced in 1755. The tanning of leather on a con-
siderable scale began soon after the Union, and a shoe
trade that followed it had attained in 1773 such import-
ance that there were two firms in that year each employ-
ing over 300 hands. The trade is now of large extent
for both home and foreign supply. The brewing busi-
ness is very old, and Glasgow was in the 17th century
noted for the excellence of its ale. It has great lv in-
creased in later times, and Messrs Tenuent, of the
Wellpark Brewery in Duke Street, are among the largest
exporters of porter and bitter ale in the kingdom, their
produce bearing the highest character in the foreign
markets. There are twelve breweries. The first distil-
lery was established in Kirk Street, Gorbals, in 1786,
l.y William llenzies, his licence being the fourth granted
in Scotland. At that period the duty little exceeded
one penny per gallon, and the best malt spirits sold at
about 3s. per gallon. The trade both by distilleries
and agencies for houses situated elsewhere has now be-
come a very extensive one, the premises of the distillery
at Port Dundas being almost the largest in the world.
There are many other industries, too numerous to be
particularly noticed, and, in short, Glasgow may be set
down as the workshop of Scotland, there being, with a
very few exceptions, hardly an article useful to mankind
that is not made in the city of St Mungo.
All the iron trade of Scotland, with small exception,
belongs directly or indirectly to Glasgow, concentrating
here its business, commercially and financially, and
drawing hence almost all the articles of consumpt con-
nected with its works and workers. The iron in-
dustry, no\
have "been
GLASGOW
of such importance to the city, seems to
itroduced in 1732 by the Smitlilield Com-
a, for the manufacture for export of all sorts of
ware. M'Ure describes their warehouse as ' built
on an eminency near the north side of the great key
or harbour at the Breamielaw,' and says that it con-
tained ' all sorts of iron work, from a lock and key to
an anchor of the greatest size.' The trade went on
in a fair way, for in 1772 there were imported into
the Clyde 836 tons of bar iron and 896 tons of pig
iron, while the exports of manufactured iron were 671J
tons, of which a little over 489 tons went to Virginia.
The trade had not increased to a very great extent,
though it was growing, but about 1839, or perhaps a
little earlier, it began to show signs of greater develop-
ment, which rapidly took place in consequence of the
introduction of the hot-air blast, devised by Mr James
B. Neilson, manager of the Glasgow gasworks, and of
the greater demand for iron of all sorts following on
the introduction of the railway system. A great deal
of the iron reaches Glasgow in the form of pig iron, and
at different works within the city it is rolled and manu-
factured. The six furnaces of the Govan Ironworks
popularly known as 'Dixon's Blazes,' from Mr Dixon
who erected them about 1837 form a curious feature
in the district S of the Clyde. Besides the G ovan works,
some of the other large premises are the Glasgow Iron-
works at Garngad Road, the Blochairn Steel Works near
the Alexandra Park, the Parkhead Forge at Parkhead,
and the Govan Forge and Steel Company, who manu-
facture the heaviest class of forgings for ships, marine
and ordinary engines, and mild steel castings and forg-
ings of all descriptions. For castings of various sanitary
and architectural appliances, the very large Saracen (at
Possilpark) and other foundries have a wide and
well-earned reputation. The increase of the iron trade
in Glasgow corresponds with that for the whole of
Scotland. In 1788 over the whole country there were
only eight furnaces at work, and their produce was only
one-sixth of what it would be now for the same number,
such has been the improvement that has taken place in
the methods of operation.
The following table shows the increase since
Year.
No. of Furnaces.
Tons produced.
1806
18
22840
1823
22
30,500
44,000
248,000
1851
1861
1870
114
122
740,000
ifS
932,000
1889
8S
998,000
111 1890, in consequence of the strike of furnacemen,
the production fell to 798,000 tons; but the average
amount may be taken at close on a million tons. From
80 to 90 steel furnaces annually produce also nearly half
a million tons of Siemens steel.
The prosperity of the trade between 1833 and 1851 is
well shown by the great increase in the number of the
furnaces, and the improvements in manufacture bythe in-
creased output that these furnaces could produce. From
an average output of nearly 1400 tons per furnace in
1S33, the quantity rose, in 1843, after the introduction
of the hot blast, to 4000, and this has since again more
than doubled. In place of the 489 tons that had been
sent to Virginia in 1772, there were sent in 1860, to
America alone, no less than 78,000 tons, and though
this in 1861 fell in consequence of the war to 35,000
tons, France increased its consumption by 14,000 tons,
and Spain increased hers by the same amount. In
1895 the total shipments of iron from Glasgow amounted
to 248,515 tons.
Another of the great sources of Glasgow's prosperity
and success has been the abundance of coal in the sur-
rounding district, which has not only provided fuel lor
the ironworks, the factories, and the steamships, but
GLASGOW
has also formed in itself an important article of export.
When the coal in the neighbourhood began to be worked
is not exactly known, but wo know that in Scotland in
the 14th century coal was a common article of merchan-
dise, and was exported and sometimes taken as ballast
for ships. The first notice we find of the Glasgow coal-
iield is in 1578, when the Archbishop let the 'coil-
heuchtis and colis within the baronie of glasgw ' for the
space of three years at the yearly rent of 40 Scots
(equal to about 5 sterling at the time), and 270 ' laids '
of coal (the ' laid ' being, according to Mr Macgeorge,
about 320 pounds). These coal pits were probably in
Gorbals. In 1655 the town council let these pits, or
others probably in the same quarter in ' the muir
lieughc,' at a rent of 33, 4s., the tenants to employ
eight hewers, and not to charge more than 4d. for nine
gallons. In 1760 the price per cart of about half a ton
was Is. 3d., but they became after this rapidly dearer,
for in 1778 they were 3s. for about the same quantity.
In the latter year the whole quantity taken to Glasgow,
including what was used for Glasgow, Greenock, and
Port Glasgow, as well as what was exported elsewhere,
was only 181,800 carts, or about 82,000 tons. In 1836
there were 37 pits in the neighbourhood, from which
561,049 tons of coal were brought to Glasgow, of which
]24 were exported, and 437,047 tons were used in the
city. In 1852 the exports were 200,560 tons, and the
whole quantity brought into the city was probably
about 1,074,558 tons. In 1878 the exports were 566,720
1895.
The coal and iron combined have made the Clyde also
the great centre for the construction of iron and steel ships,
marine steam engines and boilers, and a vast amount of
kindred work, as is highly fitting, seeing that it was
the cradle of steam navigation. Henry Bell, as has
d, had t
been already mentioned,
the Co-met built at Port
Glasgow by Messrs John Wood & Co. in 1811. The
Comet made her trial trip on 18 Jan. 1812, and on
her first trip from Glasgow to Greenock she made
5 miles an hour against a head wind. She was only
of 28 tons burden and with an engine of 4 horse-
power, and cost but 192; yet from this small begin-
ning dates the great and important shipbuilding in-
dustry on the Clyde. Bell's invention was not patented,
and was promptly seized by able, enterprising, monied
men to be copied and improved. By 1813 she was fol-
lowed by the Vliznbetk (10 horse-power), by the Clyde (14
horse-power), and the Glasgow (14 horse-power), all
built by Wood at Port Glasgow, and engined respec-
tively by Thomson of Tradeston, by Robertson, and by
Bell. The new method of navigation was at first sup-
posed to be suitable only for smooth inland waters,
and did not for a little pass beyond the Clyde ; hut a
steam vessel of better build was put on trial by David
Napier to carry goods and passengers in the coasting
trade in the open Channel, and the trial proved so suc-
cessful that its results are now apparent in every sea
that has boon navigated by civilised men. The building
of sailing vessels on the Clyde went on increasing witii
the increase of commerce, and now the building of
steam vessels became of rapid importance. During the
eighteen years, however, alter the Comet's first voyage,
all the vessels were small and mostly of timber, and the
whole aggregate did not exceed 5000 tons, bnt then
many large ones came to be required, and both small
other improvements in construction were also made, a
considerable number of them beingdueto David X;ipii-r,
who had made the boiler of the Comet, and who
ultimately combined shipbuilding with his former
trade of marine engine-making, and started on a career
that was highly successful from every point of view.
Besides his many improvements in boilers and engines,
Napier first suggested the improved clipper bow by
making the stem taper instead of coming in with a
sharp round bend. Details of the shipbuilding output
will be found in the section on History and also in the
article CLYDE, but it may here be mentioned that in
124
GLASGOW
recent years some of the largest steam-vessels afloat were
launched from the Fairfield and Clydebank shipbuilding
yards. From the latter there was launched on 1 March
1892 the PMmillies, a. first-class battle-ship of 14,300
tons displacement, 380 feet long, and having a steel
armour-belt 18 inches thick. From the Fairfield yard
in August of 1892 and February 1893 came the twin
Cunard liners Campania and Lucania, which are the
largest ships that have been built since the Great
Eastern, and are therefore now the largest ships in the
world. Measuring 620 feet long by 65J wide and 43
deep, they have a gross tonnage of 13,500 tons.
The Harbour. The harbour and docks of Glasgow
afford one of the most magnificent illustrations that can
be found of the assistance that may be given to nature
by the artifice and skill of man. 'Nowhere,' says
M. Simonin, in an article on Glasgow and the Clyde
published in the Nouvelle Revue of Nov. 1880, 'as
at Glasgow is there revealed in such luminous traits
all that can be done by the efforts of man, combined
with patience, energy, courage, and perseverance, to
assist nature, and if necessary to correct her. To widen
and deepen a river previously rebellious against carrying
boats, to turn it into a great maritime canal, to bring
the waters where it was necessary to bring the largest
ships, and, finally, to gather a population of 750,000
inhabitants, all devoted to commerce and industry upon
a spot where only yesterday there was but a modest
little town, almost destitute of every species of traffic
such is the miracle which in less than a century men
have performed at Glasgow.' Within the last hundred
years or so the Clyde navigation works have, says Mr
to the Trust, converted the river
Clyde ' between Glasgow and the sea, from a shallo
stream, navigable only by fishing wherries of at most
or 5 feet draught, and fordable even 12 miles below Glas-
gow, to a great channel of the sea, bearing on its waters
the ships of all nations, and of the deepest draught, bring-
ing to this City of the West the fruits and ores of Spain,
the wines of Portugal and France, the palm-oil and
ivory of Africa, the teas, spices, cotton, and jute of
India, the teas of China, the cotton, cattle, corn, flp
beef, timber even doors and windows rcady-n
Kgypt and Russia, the flour and wines of Hungary, the
sugar, teak, and mahogany of the West Indies, the
wools, preserved meats, and gold of the great Australian
colonies, the food supplies of the sister Isle, and the
thousands of other things which go to make the imports
of the two-mile harbour of Glasgow.'
Thedetails of thedeepeningoi the river Clyde have been
already given in the article CLYDE, and the particulars
here given will be confined to the harbour proper. The
harbour extends along the river for a distance of practi-
cally over two miles and a half. It is for this distance
from 400 to 500 feet wide; and, besides the jiatural
basin of the river, includes three tidal docks, one of them
the largest in Scotland. It is divided into two parts,
known as the Upper Harbour and the Lower Harbour
the former extending from Albert bridge to Glasgow
Bridge, the latter from Glasgow Bridge down to the
mouth of the river Kelvin. The quays on the N bank
of the river are as follows: In the Upper Harbour the
Custom House Quay extending from Victoria Bridge to
Glasgow Bridge. Broomielaw or the Steamboat Quay,
Anderston Quay, Lancelield Quay, Fiunieston Quay,
Stobcross Quay, Stobcross Slip Docks, Yorkhill Wharf,
and Govan and Partick Wharf. On the S side, from
Glasgow Bridge downwards, are Clyde Place Quay, Wind-
millcrolt Quay, Springfield Quay and Terminus Quay,
Mavisbank Quay, and Plantation Quay. The water area
is about 180 acres. The average depth at high water of
spring tides varies in different parts from 19 to 35 feet,
the shallowest berth being in Kingston and the deepest
in Cessnock Dock. Over the rest of the harbour the
ordinary depth is from 24 to 30 feet. The total length
of quayage, which was 382 yards in 1800, 697 in 1820
in both cases all on the N side of the river 1973 in
1840 (1233 on N side), 4370 in 1860, 74B4 in 1880,
10,079 in 1385, 10,956 in 1890, upon the completion
of the Cessnock docks, will be 14,793 yards, of which
fully half is allocated to various lines of steamers
trading with different parts of the world, while the rest
is available for general purposes of trade. The river
steamers and coasting steam lines find accommodation
mostly along the upper quays on the N side, while the
large American and foreign steamers have their berths
along the lower quays. To the W of the Queen's Dock
is Yorkhill Wharf, which is set apart for the discharge
of timber, and has large wood-storage yards connected
with it. At its W corner are lairs and slaughter-sheds
for cattle from the United States, while similar accom-
modation for the Canadian cattle trade is provided at
Shieldhall, to the W of Govan, on the opposite side
of the river, about a mile farther down. Terminus,
Springfield, and Mavisbank quays, on the S side, and
part of the Queen's Dock, are almost entirely given up
to the loading and unloading of ore and coal.
Though docks apart from the river basin had been
recommended as early as 1S06, and Acts of Parliament
for their construction obtained in 1840 and 1846, it
was not till 1867 that the first one was constructed. This
was Kingston Dock, on the S bank of the river behind
\Vindmillcroft Quay. It is an oblong basin, with 5J
acres of water space, surrounded by a timber wharf
giving 830 lineal yards of quayage. The entrance is
between Windmillcioit and Springfield Quays, and is
about 90 feet wide. The site cost 40,000, while
115,000 was expended on construction. In 1846 per-
mission was obtained from Parliament to erect a tidal
basin and a wet dock at Stobcross on the N side of the
river below Finnieston Quay, and land was there acquired
for this purpose, but nothing was done, as it was deemed
easier and cheaper to extend the quays along the river.
When this became no longer easily possible the Stob-
cross plan was revived, but on a much larger scale, the
Edinburgh and Glasgow railway (now part of the North
British Railway system) having in the meantime re-
ceived permission to erect a station at the proposed
dock. Parliamentary sanction was in 1870 obtained for
the new plan, which showed a total area used of 61 acres
(of which 33Jj are water space), and a quayage of 3334
lineal yards. The works were begun in 1872, and
finished so far that the dock could be opened in 1877.
The last stone of the entire work was laid in 1880, and
the basin, by express permission of the Queen, received
the name of the Queen's Dock. It comprises three
Basins the North, 1866 feet long by 270 wide; the
South, 1647 feet long by 230 wide, with a quay between
them 195 feet broad; and an Outer, 695 feet wide at its
widest part by 1000 feet long. The entrance is at the
SW corner, and is 100 feet wide. It is crossed by one
of Armstrong's hydraulic swing-bridges 40 feet 6 inches
wide, 181 feet 6 inches long, and constructed to carry
.1 rolling load of 60 tons on any part of its roadway.
The total cost of the dock (inclusive of land) was about
a million and a half, while accommodation is provided
for about 1,000,000 tons of shipping. In 1883 parlia-
mentary sanction was obtained for the construction of
additional docks at Cessnock behind Plantation Quay,
on the opposite side of the river from the Queen's Dock,
where 100 acres had been acquired by the Trust for
this purpose long before. In consequence of the de-
pression of trade that prevailed for some years after
the passing of the act, operations were not begun till
1886, while minor alterations of plans were made in
1890. The entrance is at the NW corner and leads into
a large canting basin measuring 700 by 685 feet, and
with a 120 ton crane on the centre of the quay wall to
the W. To the E of the canting space are three basins
running E and AV, parallel to each other and to the
river, of which the two to the S are 200 feet wide and
that to the N varies from 200 to 240 feet. They are
separated by quays 250 feet wide. The extreme length
of the water area is 2000 feet, and the width 1100, and
the water space covers 34 acres, while the available
quayage is 3760 yards. The deptl
ordinary spring tide will be 25 feet, and at high watei
GLASGOW
36 feet; but along the W wall there will bo berths witli
depths under similar conditions of 28 and 39 feet, so as
to provide accommodation at the 120 ton crane for men-
of-war and the largest vessels afloat. The sheds are
two-storey, the upper parts for inward and the lower
for outward cargo, so that vessels may be unloaded and
loaded at the same time. In order to avoid the necessity
of any bridge across the entrance the Renfrew Road,
which here formerly was parallel to the river, was in
1891 diverted to the extent of 1565 yards round the
E, S, and W sides. The total cost, exclusive of land,
was about 1,500,000. Close to the entrance, on the
W, are three graving docks, of which that next the
river, No. 1 (1869-75) is 560 feet long, 72 feet wide at
entrance, and has a depth of 22 feet 10 inches of water
on the sill at high water of ordinary spring tides. No.
2 (1882-86) is 575 feet long, 67 feet wide at entrance,
and has the same depth of water on sill as No. 1.
No. 3 (begun 1890) is the largest in the kingdom and
is 900 feet long. 85 feet wide at entrance, and has 26
feet of water on the sill. By far the greater portion
of the whole of the harbour quays is built with solid
stonework, and considerable pains have been taken, and
sums of money expended, in repairing many of the older
erections which had, owing to the constant dredging
and deepening of the bed of the river, in many places
shown signs of a tendency to slip into the river. For
the quay walls it has been in many places very difficult
to obtain suitable foundations, as the subsoil consists
largely of water-bearing sand, gravel, and mud, but the
difficulty has latterly been got over by the use of groups
of concrete cylinders a plan here first adopted and
carried out with great success.
To the W of the entrance to the Queen's Dock are
the Kelvinhaugh slip docks, and there are also other
two private slip docks one at Pointhouse Shipbuilding
Yard, and one at Meadowside Shipbuilding Yard. At
the latter, at the mouth of the Kelvin, there is also a
private graving dock, constructed in 1856 by Messrs
Tod & Henderson, but now in possession of Messrs \V.
& D. Henderson & Co., to whom the adjoining Meadow-
side Shipbuilding Yard belongs. It is 500 feet long,
56 wide at the entrance, and has 18 feet of water on
the sill at spring tides and 16 at neaps.
There are a number of cranes connected with the har-
bour, some of a powerful and elaborate description. The
largest, as well as one of the most powerful in the
country, is that erected at Finnieston in 1891-93 for the
purpose of enabling the marine engineers of the district
to tender for, and place on board steamers, the increas-
ingly heavy boilers and machinery required. It is a
pillar crane with framing, shafting, and jib of mild steel,
and gearing of cast steel. The holding-down bolts,
which are 38j feet long, are 5 inches in diameter and
weigh 8 tons, while the washer-plates are each 6 feet
square and weigh 13 tons. The frame, which turns on
a centre pin 17 inches in diameter and weighing 6 tons,
is 27 feet high and weighs 50 tons; the jib, coiisistiiiL-
of two tubes each 3} feet in diameter at the centre, is
90 feet long and weighs 45 tons. The total weight of
crane (exclusive of back balance box of 100 tons) is 270
tons, and the height above the quay 110 feet. The cost
was 16,000. It has been tested up to 150 tons, but is
meant to lift loads not exceeding 130 tons. The lift is
from 20 feet below quay level to 60 above the seat, or
100 feet in all. At Stobcross Quay, a little to the W,
is a 75 ton crane, and at Plantation Quay one of 60 tons.
At other parts are 40 steam and hydraulic cranes lifting
from IJj to 40 tons, and besides these there are, on
allocated wharves, belonging to private proprietors, 3'2
other cranes lifting from 1J to 30 tons. The 120 ton
crane at Cessnock has been already mentioned. The
heavy cranes at Finnieston, Stobcross, and Plantation
Quays rest on a foundation such as no other cranes in
the world have, viz., a cluster of concrete cylinders sunk
into and resting on a quicksand. These cylinders reach
to more than 50 feet below the level of the quay, and
are finished at 3 feet below water-level, while the seat
is formed of ashlar masonry.
125
Within the limits of the harbour there arc ferries at
York Street, Clyde Street, Stobcross, and Kelvinlmugh.
These have screw steam ferry boats of from 6 to 7J horse-
power, and carry from 93 to 110 passengers. Steam was
first used in 1865, but now it would be impossible.
to overtake the traffic without it. At Stobcross Ferry
the unique elevating platform steamer Finnieston,
driven by triple-expansion engines of 56 horse-power,
and independent engines for elevatin
deck. The movable deck
fti
signed and built by Messrs William Simons & Co.,
Rcnlrew, and placed 'here in 1890. Her distinguishing
feature is a deck which can be raised or lowered to the
extent of 15 feet by means of six large and powerful
steel screws with bevel gearing, so that the upper movable
deck is always kept at the same level as the quay what-
ever be the state of the tide. Built of steel the vessel
is 80 feet long, 44 wide, and 12 deep, with a draft of
9J feet when loaded, and has two propellers at each end
horse-power,
ines for elevating or lowering the
" feet long by 32 wide,
and can carry eight loaded carts and horses with 300
passengers, while if no carts be carried the number of
passengers may be increased to 700. The necessity for
the increase of cross-harbour conveyance thus provided
is shown by the fact that during the first year after the
l-'iiuiii'xtmi began to ply the number of vehicles earned
across the river was 201,524, against 69,473 for the year
before. At Govan, above the mouth of the Kelvin, is
a ferry boat of 20 horse-power also worked by steam,
in which carriages, carts, live stock, etc., may cross the
river. It carries 8 horses and carts and 140 passengers,
or 500 passengers alone. The boats at Clyde Street,
Stobcross, and Govan ply both day and night; the others
work from five A.M. to eleven P.M. There are also
ferries at Meadowside below the mouth of the Kelvin,
at Whiteinch below the harbour, and at Oatlands near
the S end of Glasgow Green above. At Stobcross there is
also a subway for both cart and foot traffic. Nine of the
Bteam ferry boats can be used as floating fire engines.
In 1884 a number of passenger steamers called Uluthas,
from Clutha, the Celtic name of the Clyde, began to
up and down the harbour from Victoria Bridge to
..iteinch, a distance of 3J miles. These vessels are of
from 12 to 18 horse-power, and designed to carry from
235 to 360 passengers. They ply at intervals of ten
minutes, calling at floating piers on both sides of the
harbour, the fare for the whole distance being one penny.
The number of passengers carried during the year cx-
ueeds three millions, while cross-river ferries in the same
period carry about nine million passengers, besides
vehicles, etc., the gross revenue being nearly 20,000.
Glasgow is the third largest shipowning port in the
kingdom, and holds the sixth place as regards clearances
to foreign countries and British possessions.
The Clyde Trust. All the improvements on the har-
bour and river have been carried out under the care of
the Trustees of the Clyde Navigation, whose jurisdiction
extends from the upper harbour for more than 18 miles
down the river to a line drawn from Newark Castle to
< 'ardross, bevoud this the care of deepening the chan-
nel rests on" the Lighthouse Trust. Under an Act of
Parliament, passed in 1759, power was given to the
magistrates and town council of Glasgow 'to cleanse,
scour, straighten, and improve' the river Clyde from
Dumbuck Ford to the Bridge of Glasgow, and further
empowering them to charge certain duties for defray-
ing the expenses, these to be levied as soon as the
locks recommended by Smeaton were finished. For-
tunately for Glasgow no locks were ever built, and in
1770 the town council procured another act, which
declared that the magistrates and council were 'now
advised that by contracting the channel of the said
river Clyde, and building and erecting jetties, banks,
walls, works, and fences in and upon the same river,
and dredging the same in proper places between the
lower end of Dumbuck Ford and the Bridge of Glasgow,
the said river Clyde may be further deepened and the
navigation thereof more effectually improved than by
any lock or dam,' and then went on to provide that the
former duties, which were not to be payable till the
GLASGOW
locks were erected, should now be payable as soon as the
Clyde should be 'navigable from the lower end of Dum-
buck Ford to the Bridge of Glasgow aforesaid, so as
there shall be at least 7 feet of water at neap tides in
every part of the said river within the bounds aforesaid.'
By a third act, obtained in 1809, the depth was fixed at
9 feet, and the magistrates and council were appointed
Trustees of the Clyde Navigation. In 1825 power was
given by a fourth act to deepen the river to 13 feet, and
the constitution of the Trust was widened by the addi-
tion as Trustees of ' five other persons interested in the
trade and navigation of the river and firth of Clyde,'
which persons were to be appointed by the magistrates
and council. In 1840 a further act was obtained pro-
viding for the deepening of the river to 17 feet at neaps,
and between 1846 and 1882 various acts were obtained
arranging for the construction of docks, the borrowing
of money, and the provision of harbour tramways, and
for the construction of graving docks. One of these,
obtained in 1858, and known as the Consolidation Act,
materially affected the constitution of the Trust, which,
however, remains, as it has always been, one of the most
public-spirited and business-like bodies in Scotland.
By this act the number of Trustees was fixed at twenty-
five, consisting of the Lord Provost and nine members
of the town council, two members chosen by the Cham-
ber of Commerce, two of the matriculated members of
the Merchants' House, two chosen by the members of
the Trades' House of Glasgow, and nine by the ship-
owners and ratepayers, the qualification of the latter
members of the trust being ownership to the extent of
at least 250 tons, or payment of rates to at least the
extent of 25 per annum ; and the qualification of those
who elect them, ownership to the extent of at least 100
tons or payment of 10 of rates or upwards. The last
great improvement carried out by the Trust in connec-
tion with the deepening of the river was the removal of
Elderslie rock, a volcanic dyke 320 feet broad, which
extends across the Clyde a short distance above Renfrew,
and the existence of which was first made known by the
grounding on it, in 1854, of the Glasgow, one of the
first steamers trading between Glasgow and New York.
During 1860-67 blasting \ 'rations removed enough to
give a depth of 14 feet at low and 23 feet at high water
over half the channel, but in 1880-90 the whole water-
way was cleared so as to give a uniform depth of 20 feet
at low and 30^ feet at high water of spring tides, the
boring being done by diamond drills and the blasting
with dynamite. The oflices of the Trust are in a hand-
some red stone building (1885) in Robertson Street,
between Argyle Street and the Broomielaw. Projecting
from the front in high relief are representations of the
prows of two ancient galleys; while the entablature has
figures representing the Eastern and Western hemi-
spheres bringing their merchandise to the Clyde, over
which is a gigantic Neptune, trident in hand, seated on
a car drawn by plunging sea-horses. Two boyish figures
support the arms of the Merchants' House. Further
details in connection with the deepening of the river
and the Clyde Trust will be found in the article CLYDE.
The care of the river below the limits of the juris-
diction of the Clyde Trust is in the hands of the Clyde
Lighthouse Trust, who attend to the dredging and light-
ing as far as a line drawn duo E and W across the Firth
of Clyde, at the southmost part of the Little Cum-
brae, from the coast of Ayr to the coast of Kintyre.
This body consists, under the act of 1890, of 20 members,
of whom 11 are elected from among ratepayers, as
defined by the act, in Glasgow (6), Grcenock (3), and
Port-Glasgow (2); and five are appointed by the Mer-
chants' House, Glasgow, the Chamber of Commerce, Glas-
gow, and Chamber of Commerce, Greenook; while the
chairman of the Clyde Navigation Trust and of the
Trustees of Greenock and Port-Glasgow Harbours are
members ex offitio along with Sir Michael Shaw Stewart
of Ardgowan and his heirs male in the estate of Greenock.
Besides dredging the lower channel the Lighthouse
Trust maintains the lighthouses and fog-signals at
Cloch, Toward, and Cumbrac, and the gas buoys at
GLASGOW
Roseneath, Skelmorlie, Greenock, Garvel Point, Can-
tocks, Burnt Isles, and Toward. The dredgings lifted
amount to over 4,000,000 tons, and the income and
expenditure to about 15,000 per annum.
Sridges. -Within the limits of the city the river is
crossed by ten bridges. The one farthest down the
river, immediately below Glasgow Bridge, is a large and
massive iron lattice-girder bridge, by which the Cale-
donian railway traffic is carried to the Central station.
It was finished in 1879. Proceeding up the river the
next bridge is Glasgow Bridge, one of the busiest places
in Glasgow, as continuing the line of Jamaica Street to
Bridge Street and Eglinton Street. It forms the princi-
. pal communication with the S side. The original struc-
ture, known as the Broomielaw Bridge, founded in 1768,
had seven arches. About 1830 it was found inadequate
for the traffic, and in 1833 was replaced by a granite-
cased structure, also of seven arches, designed by Telford.
This, which was 60 feet wide, remained till 1893, when,
becoming in its turn insufficient for the increased traffic,
and showing signs of failure in its foundations, it was
decided to rebuild it. It was at first proposed to erect
a bridge of lour spans, but for reasons connected with
the navigation of the upper harbour, the proposed piers
not being in line with those of the contiguous railway
bridge, it was agreed to rebuild it on the same plan as
Tellbrd's bridge, but 20 feet wider, thus making the
extreme width between the parapets 80 leet. Operations
were begun in 1895. The caissons supporting the arches
are sunk to a depth of about 75 feet, so as to be beyond
the influence of any probable scour in the river. The
centre span is 58 feet 10 inches, the one on each side of
this 57 leet 9 inches, the next on each side 55 leet 7
inches, and the side spans 52 (eet each. Granite is
used throughout The Portland Street Suspension
Bridge, a little to the E of Glasgow Bridge, was erected
at the expense of the heritors of Gorbals in 1853, and
altered and improved in 1870-71. Still farther E, and
forming an important link between the N and S side of
the river, is Victoria Bridge. This erection occupies
the site of the old and first bridge of Glasgow. We
have already seen that a bridge, probably of wood, is
mentioned as existing here in the time of Wallace. It
was about 1350 replaced by Bishop Rae's Bridge, a
great work for the time, consisting of eight stone arches,
12 feet wide between parapets. In course of time this
naturally became somewhat decayed, and in 1658 an
order was made that no cart was to cross on wheels, but
was to have the wheels removed and to be ' harlcd '
ethod which hardly commends itself to us
now-a-days as likely to be better for the bridge. In
1671, during the Fair, the arch at the S end fell. It
seems to have been merely rebuilt, but in 1777 the brid^
was widened by 10 feet added to its eastern side; and
to narrow the river, and so assist in the prevention of
floods, two of the arches on the N side were built up.
In this condition it remained till 1821, when it was
again repaired; but in 1845 an Act of Parliament was
obtained for the erection of a new one on the same site,
and it was finally pulled down in 1847, and replaced by
the present bridge, which was opened in the Beginning
of 1854. Named Victoria Bridge in honour of the
Queen, it cost 40,000, and is 60 feet wide, with five
arches of from 67 to 80 feet in span. The next bridge
is a high lattice-girder bridge, opened in 1870, by which
the Union and the Glasgow and South-Western rail-
ways cross to St Enoch's station. Next is the Albert
Bridge, which has replaced what was known as the
Hutchesontown Bridge. The first bridge that was
erected here was one built in 1792, when the Hutcheson-
town lands were feued; but it was hardly finished when,
in 1795, it was destroyed by a flood on the river. In
1803 there was a light wooden bridge for foot passengers,
free during the week, but with a pontage of Id. on Sun-
day. The third bridge, a very plain structure, with
five arches, was not erected till 1829, and the founda-
tions having become insecure it was closed in 1868, and
was in 1868-71 replaced by the present bridge. Named
in honour of the Prince Consort, it crosses the river in three
bridge, which
wide. Next
magnificent spans, the centre one being 114 feet wide,
and the others 108 feet. The foundations rest on cast-
iron cylinders filled with cement, and sunk deep in the
bed of the river. The abutments and piers are of white
and red granite. The parapet is of open work, and has
in the centre a close space with the city arms. On the
abutments are panels, with medallions of the Queen and
Prince Consort. It is 410 feet long, and the roadway
is 60 feet wide. Opposite the middle of the Green ia
a foot suspension bridge, erected in 1856, for the accom-
modation of factory hands in the east end. It is known
as Harvey's Suspension Bridge (from the promoter of
its erection, Bailie Harvey), or as St Andrew's Suspen-
sion Bridge, the latter being the authorized name.
Before its erection there was a ferry here, in times of
spate a scene of great excitement. Still farther up,
opposite the line of Main Street, Bridgeton, is Ruther-
glen Bridge. The old and not very beautiful structure
of 1776 having become unsafe was removed in 1893 and
replaced by the present three-arch stone br
has a length of 330 feet and is 60 feet wi(
comes the Caledonian Railway Bridge at Dalmarnock,
constructed in 1861 ; and last the bridge at Dalmarnock,
which continues the line of Dalmarnock Road towards
Riitherglen. The first Dalmarnock Bridge, which was
of wood and was erected in 1821, lasted till 1848, when
it was replaced by another of the same material. This
was removed in 1889, when the present bridge was
erected. It is 320 feet long and 50 feet wide, with five
steel-girder spans each 54 feet 8 inches long, the girders
resting on granite piers. The last three bridges are
partly in Glasgow and partly in the county of Lanark.
At both Rutherglen and Dalmarnock there were origin-
ally fords.
Besides the bridges over the Clyde there is an elegant
one-arch bridge, fancifully called the Bridge of Sighs,
leading across the Molendinar ravine to the Necropolis.
It has a span of 60 feet, and was erected in 1833 at a cost
of 1240. The Kelvin is crossed by a number of bridges.
Proceeding upwards from the mouth there is first a
girder bridge, by which the Stobcross railway crosses;
then a bridge, for a continuation of Bridge Street, Par-
tick, to Old Dumbarton Road. New Dumbarton Road
crosses the stream by a handsome iron bridge (1877)
resting on stone abutments, while a stone arch carries
the roadway over the adjoining mill-lade. Within the
limits of the West End Park the Kelvin is crossed by
three bridges one of stone; one a strong lattice-girder
bridge for carriage traffic, finished in 1881; and one
known as the Prince of Wales Bridge, from the original
wooden structure having been erected for the use of tho
Prince of Wales when he laid the foundation-stone of
the University buildings. To the N of the park are
two bridges on the line of W T oodlands Road and of
Great Western Road. The first, a steel bridge of one
span, resting on masonry abutments, and 60 leet wide,
was fi-reted in 1892-94 to replace the old one of 1853.
The other, which replaced one erected originally in 1838-
40 and enlarged in 1858-59, is 60 feet wide, and was
erected in 1889-91. It is constructed of iron and has
four spans, the two central each 91 feet wide, that on
the W 34 feet, and that on the E 20 feet. There are
iron balustrades between the piers, which are carried
up all the way in a casing of Aberdeenshire granite,
and finished at the top with handsome capitals bearing
lamps. Close by is the girder bridge of the GLASGOW
CENTRAL RAILWAY. Two handsome single-arched stone
bridges at Belmont and Queen Margaret College, erected
in 1870, were taken over by the Corporation at the time
of the extension of the city boundary to be maintained
as public property. The other bridges do not call for
particular notice.
Cemeteries. Some ancient cemeteries in the city
have been converted into building ground or market
places; while others, at the Cathedral, St David's,
Gorbals, Calton, and Bridgeton still remain, but
are not now important for their original purpose,
but as lungs for the city. The cathedral cemetery is
the oldest, the first part of it that was used being very
GLASGOW
much crowded with gravestones and monuments; the
newer parts are laid out in sornewhal more modern
taste. There are a number of interesting monuments,
including one to some martyrs of the Covenanting times.
The olher old cemeteries show no peculiar features.
Inside the city there were also intramural cemeteries
at North Slreet and Main Street in Anderston, Cheap-
side Street in Anderston, Christ Church in Mile End,
Gin.ndyke Street Episcopalian Church, and for Roman
Catholics in Abercromby Slreel ; but most of these are
now closed and the others are used only in very special
circumstances. The cemeteries in use are Ihe Necro-
polis, which is now, however, owing lo Ihe growth of
Dennisloun and Ihe extension of Ihe northern district
eastward, almost wholly surrounded by houses; Sight-
hill Cemetery, the Eastern Necropolis or Janelidd,
the Southern Necropolis, Craigton at Paisley Road,
Sandymount at Shettleslon, Dalbeth at London Road,
Cathcart al New Calhcart, the Western Necropolis at
Maryhill, and Lambhill Cemetery, near Possilpark.
The Necropolis is the parent of all the garden ceme-
teries throughout Scotland. It lies E of the calhedral,
from Ihe grounds of which il is separated by Ihe ravine
of Ihe Molendinar Burn, partly filled up, and now form-
ing a delightful roadway. The entrance (greatly im-
proved in 1891-92 when Cathedral Square was remodelled)
is by a Tudor gateway at the Bridge of Sighs, already re-
ferred to. The si to lies along the slope and brow of a steep
hillside formerly known as Craig's or the Fir Park, the
property of Ihe Merchants' House rising to a height of
225 feet above the level of Ihe Clyde, and commanding
from its summit an interesting and beautiful view, with
the city and its spires to the SW, and a long stretch of
finely diversified and wooded country to the E. It was
begun in 1828, the intention being to lay il out after
the model of Pcre Lachaise at Paris, to which, in point
nt' situation, it bears some resemblance, and was opened
in 1833. II is beautifully laid out and kept, and has,
with its trees, flowers, shrubs, and gravel walks, the
appearance of a fine terraced garden. Many of the
monuments show considerable architectural and artistic
tasle. One of Ihe oldest and most conspicuous is a
monument to John Knox. It consists of a Doric column
of somewhat heavy proportions, rising from a square
base, and with a broad capital on which is placed a
statue of the Reformer, 12 feel high, by Forrest. The
sides of Ihe base are nearly covered wilh an inscrip-
tion, giving information relative to Knox and Ihe Refor-
mation. Another conspicuous monument is a Tudor
structure on a quadrangular base, with a colossal statue,
also by Forrest, to the memory of William M 'Gavin,
author of the. Protestant. Other interesting monuments
are a beautiful Ionic structure to Ihe memory of the
Rev. Dr John Dick; a large circular Norman mausoleum
for the late Major Montcith ; a mausoleum for Mr
Houhlsworth, with fine figures of Faith, Hope, and
Charity; a pretty facade at the sepulchre of the Jews
at the lower NW corner of the grounds; and statues or
other structures to perpetuate Ihe memory of Charles
Tennant of St Rollox, Colin Dunlop of Tollcross, Colonel
Patterson, the Rev. Dr Heugh, the Rev. Dr Wardlaw,
the Very Rev. Principal Maclnrlane, the Rev. Edward
Irving, Ihe Rev. Dr Black, Ihe Rev. Dr W. Anderson,
James Ewini' of Slralhleven, Sheridan Knowles, William
Motherwell the poet, Dr Macnish, J. H. Alexander of
the Old Theatre Royal, Michael Scott, the author of
Tom Cringle's Log, and John Elder the well-known
shipbuilder.
Sighthill Cemetery, near Springburn, on the NE, laid
out in 1840 by a joint stock company, occupies a sloping
situation, rising to a height of nearly 400 feet above sea-
level, and conlains 46 acres of land available for burial
purposes. The grounds are entered by a fine gateway
close to which is a tasteful chapel designed and used
for burial services and are well laid out with winding
walks and shrubberies. There is a magnificent view
extending from Tinlo lo Ihe Grampians. There are a
number of fine monuments, including an obelisk erected
to the memory of Ilardic and Baird who wore executed
123
1820 on a charge of high treason in coti-
ction with the early Chartist troubles. More inter-
ments take place at Sighthill than at any of the other
cemeteries in Glasgow. The Eastern Necropolis is on the
E at Parkhead, off the Great Eastern Road. II conlains
aboul 10 acres laid oul with walks intersecting at right
angles. The Southern Necropolis on the. lands of Little
Govan is about 4 mile SSE of Albert Bridge. The
ground, which extends over some 12 acres, is flat, and is
laid out with flower-beds and walks. The Western
Necropolis is on undulating ground at Lochburn Road,
Maryhill. It belongs to a joint slock company, and
covers 54 acres, of which only a small portion is as yet
laken up. It is tastelully laid out, and there are ex-
tensive views lo Ihe N and W along to the Campsie and
Kilpalrick Hills, with Ben Lomond and the Glcnilfer
Braes. None of the other cemeteries call for particular
comment.
Public Parks. Glasgow is well supplied wilh public
parks, which are well laid out and kept, and carefully
tended. The oldest of these is Ihe Green, which lies
along Ihe river in the eastern part of the city for a dis-
tance of more than a mile, and covers a space of about
136 acres. It is all that now remains of the extensive
commonly belonging lo Ihe cily, which al one lime
swept all round the E side from this point to Cow-
caddens, but which has from time lo lime been appro-
priated for building purposes. In some of Ihe earlier
charters Ihe Green is mentioned under Ihe name of
Ihe Bishop's Forest, but probably at that time but littlo
of il was available for Ihe use of Ihe citizens. The Old
Green extended from the presenl Green to Stockwell
Streel, but was given up for buildings in the end of last
century. The firsl parl of Ihe presenl Green devoled
lo Ihe amusement of the people was the E portion,
known as Ihe King's Park, which was granted by James
II. in 1450 for the use of the community. Parts of it
seem, however, to have been alienated, for in 1574 Ihe
community protested against any further encroachments,
and in 1576 the magistrates and council resolved that
thereafter no parts of the city, 'commoun muris,' were
to be given to any one. Notwithstanding this, fresh
efforts at alienation on the part of the council had again
to be resisted by popular effort in 1600 and in 1745. In
1 756 the town council gave oil" a portion of Ihe ground for
a saw-mill, which, however, Ihey had lo send men lo
destroy, so strong was the popular outcry; and the
tenacity of the citizens in resisting all encroachments
has been shown many times since. In 1847 resistance
was successfully made against a bill promoted by Ihe
Glasgow and Airdrie Railway Company lo enable them
to lay a line across the Green. In 1868 the citizens had
lo resort lo inlerdicl, in order to prevent their own town
council from throwing more than 2000 yards of the
Green into Greenhead Streel, and though Ihere are
valuable seams of coal and iron known to exist beneath,
yet nothing short of the bankruptcy of the city would
allow of their being worked.
The Green was enlarged in 1773 by Ihe purchase of
about 30 acres from various persons, and Ihe addition
then made came to be known as Ihe High Green; and
in 1792 a still further addition was made of the land
lying between Ihe King's Park and Ihe bend of Ihe
rive?, and known as Ihe Provost's or Fleshers' Haugh.
This last was formerly lower in level than Ihe rest of
the ground, but was raised in 1892-93 by depositing the
soil excavated during Ihe formation of Ihe Cenlral
Railway. For generations Ihe Green was allowed to
remain almost in a state of nature, being cut up with
springs, runnels, and marshy places; lallerly it has,
however especially for the purpose of providing em-
ployment for workmen in limes of dislress in 1820 and
in 1875 been drained and improved as lo level and
laying out, and has now a fine sward, with numbers of
excellenl paths and drives crossing it in various direc-
tions. Near the centre is a public gymnasium furnished
with all Ihe common appliances. A large space wesl-
ward from Ihe gymnasium and round Ihe obelisk erected
lo the memory of Lord Nelson, is used for great
GLASGOW
open-air public meetings. In summer the river here
is studded with pleasure boats of all sorts, and on the
river bank close to the St Andrew's Suspension Bridge
is the Humane Society's House. Previous to those
modern days when wealth and fashion moved westward,
the Green used to be the summer rendezvous of the pride
and beauty of the city, but now it is often far from bein;
a pleasant place, for the forest of factory chimneys 01
both sides, in certain states of the wind, roll over 01
the Green volumes of smoke in black and bitter abund
ance. The number of springs that abounded in it made
it from an early date a public -washing and bleaching
green, and part of it is still set aside for this purpose.
It was the field for all grand military exercises and dis-
plays. Here Regent Moray's army encamped before
Langside; here Prince Charles Edward reviewed his
army on the retreat from Derby; here, in the stirring
times when George III. was king and almost every
shopkeeper was a soldier, drill was carried on; and here
the modern volunteers, too, parade from time to time,
about 6000 of them having been reviewed on the Green
by the Prince of Wales in 3876. At the W entrance,
opposite the Justiciary Court-House, is a small granite
drinking fountain erected by some temperance advo-
cates to commemorate the services of Sir William Collins
to the temperance cause. It has, on the W side, a
bronze panel with a medallion portrait of Sir William.
Farther E is a handsome terra-cotta fountain, shown
at the Industrial Exhibition of 1888 as a specimen of
Poulton work and afterwards presented to the city by
Sir Henry Doulton, and erected hereat hisexpcnsein 1890.
Designed after the style of the time of Francis I., it is for
size and elaboration of treatment unrivalled in this ma-
terial. The scheme of modelling is intended to represent
the British Empire, the groups at the base being emblem-
atic of India, Canada, South Africa, and Australia, while
in niches round the central shaft are statues of a sailor
and of soldiers of the Grenadier Guards, the Black
Watch, and the Royal Irish Fusiliers, the whole being
surmounted by a statue of the Queen. The diameter of
the outer basin is 70 feet, and the height of the whole
is 46 feet. Farther E is the Macdonald Fountain,
originally erected by some admirers of Hugh Macdonald
on Glenilfer Braes at ' the bonnie wee well on the breist
o' the brae,' but afterwards removed by the subscribers
which it was treated in its place of solitude. A foun-
tain in memory of Bailie James Martin was erected in
1895 on the slope facing Monteith Row. The gateway
at the London Street entrance on the N, erected in
.
ingrove or West End Park lies along the
Kelvin, between Woodside and Sandy lord.
adaptation of the Ingram Street front of the old
Assembly Rooms, removed to make way for the south
wing of the General Post Office. A People's Palace,
alter the style of the Crystal Palace at Sydenham, was
erected on the Green in 1895-97, and it is further pro-
posed to enlarge the park by the acquisition of tha
vacant ground opposite it on the S side of the river,
he tw
The
banks of the
Originally the park was only on the E side, and was
formed from lands on the old estates of Kelvingrove
and Woodside, purchased by the town council in 1853
for this purpose at a cost of 99,569. A portion of the
ground was, however, set aside for feus in so judicious a
manner that it affords fair promise of ultimately reim-
bursing the total cost. The lands comprise a tabular
hill on the E side, with rapid slopes on the N and S,
and a longer but still sharp slope on the W down to
the Kelvin, from which there is an undulating rise to
Gilmorehill with the University buildings. The por-
tion of the ground on the W side of the Kelvin was
acquired from the University authorities. The part
set apart for feuing includes all the top of the hill to
the E, which is now occupied by the magnificent houses
that form Park Circus, Park Street, Park Terrace, and
Park Quadrant. The ground was laid out, and the
walks, drives, and shrubberies
nged according to
GLASGOW
designs by Sir Joseph Paxton. On the crest of the high
ground opposite Park Street West is a lofty flagstaff,
with at its base a mortar and two cannons captured
at Sebastopol. From this point, as well as from the
higher walks and terraces, there are good views along
the river and across to Renfrewshire, In 1881 the lands
of Clayslaps, Overnewton, and Kelvinbank (comprising
19 acres) were added to the park at an expense of
66,626. The total area now is 85 acres, and the total
cost was 144,571.
The Queen's Park lies on the S side, about 1 1, mila
straight S from Glasgow Bridge, along Bridge Street,
Eglinton Street, and Victoria Road, and close to Cross-
hill. It was opened in 1862, and occupies chiefly a
rising-ground or low broad-based hill. The entrance is
at the end of Victoria Road, and from a highly orna-
mental gateway a broad path, broken near the centra
by a massive granite staircase, leads to the flagstaff on
the summit of the hill. The plans, for laying it out were
prepared by Sir Joseph Paxton. A considerable portion
of it is under grass, on which visitors may wander as
freely as on the Green, while the rest is covered with
shrubberies and clumps of young trees resembling those
in Kelvingrove Park. From the flagstaff on the summit
there is a very fine view. On the N the city of Glasgow
spreads out in all its length from Partick to Tollcross,
while beyond are the Campsie Hills. Farther to the
left are the wooded heights above Kilpatrick, and if the
atmosphere be clear the distant Ben Lomond may be
seen above and beyond them. On the right is the Vale
of Clyde, the valley of the Cart, and the Cathkin Braes.
The wooded knoll of Camihill, where Regent Murray
encamped, and the view westward from which is very
fine, is now included in the park, and the ground on the
SE was the scene of the battle of Langside. The estate
of Camphill (58 acres) was in 3894 purchased by the
city from the patrons of Hutchesons' Hospital for
63,000. The area of the park is now 148 acres. A
little beyond the S gate of the park a handsome pillar
was erected by public subscription in 1887 as a memorial
of the battle of Langside.
Alexandra Park lies at the E end of the city, adjacent
to the NE side of Dcnnistoun, and about 1J mile NE
of the junction of High Street and Duke Street. Part
of it, extending to 74 acres, was opened in 3870-72,
and other 16 acres were added in 1891 by purchase,
when the boundary was extended to the Cumbernauld
Road the remaining 26 acres of the purchase being
reserved for feuing. The ground was purchased, and
this park formed, by the City Improvement Trust under
the 1866 Act, but the care of it has since devolved on
the council under the ' Glasgow Public Parks Act, 1859.'
The approach from the W from Castle Street, known
as the Alexandra Parade, nearly a mile long and 80
feet wide, was constructed chiefly at the expense of
the late Mr. Deunistoun of Golfhill.
In 1886 a parkof 49 acres on the ridge of Cathkin Braes,
some 3 miles to the SE of Glasgow, was presented to the
city by Mr James Dick, with the condition that it should
in all time coming be kept in its natural state ; and in 1895
a piece of ground at Bellahouston, 378 acres in extent,
was acquired by the corporation from the Steven Trus-
tees. It was formally opened in 1896. The inhabit-
ants of Govan and Kinning Park also benefit by this
the largest of the Glasgow Parks. In the same year
Tollcross House and grounds (82 acres) were acquired by
the Glasgow authorities as a public park, which was
opened by the Lord Provost in 1897.
The Royal Botanic Gardens in iCelvinside, on the N
side of Great Western Road, were long carried on by the
Royal Botanic Institution ; but, owing to lack of sup-
port, this society became involved in pecuniary difficul-
ties, and the feuing of the ground was only avoided by
the aid of the Corporation of the unextended city of
Glasgow. When the extension of the municipal bound-
aries took place in 3891, the Gardens passed into the
full possession of the city as one of the public parks, and
they have since been extended by the incorporation
within them of the open slope on the E side of the
320
GLASGOW
Kelvin. The area is now 30 acres. Part of the ground
is laid out with collections of plants arranged in
natural families and orders, and there are also large
ranges of conservatories. To the NE of the main en-
tranceclose to which is one of the stations of the Cen-
tral Railway- is the Kibble Crystal Palace, erected here
in 1872 and extended in 1874, and taking its name from
the donor, Mr. Kibble. There are two domes rising to
a height of about 40 feet, while the larger is about 150
feet in diameter. Originally used as a concert and
lecture hall, it is now appropriated for use as a winter
garden. The present garden, first laid out in 1842, and
enlarged in 1875, took the place of an older one formed
in 1819 off Sauchiehall Road, now Sauchiehall Street,
and that in its turn had replaced the original Botanic
Garden at the old College.
Maxwell Park (21 acres), SW of West Pollokshields,
presented to the quondam burgh by Sir John Stirling
Maxwell of Pollok in 1890, was taken over by the city
under the Extension of Boundaries Act, by which also
provision was made for the acquisition of such further
recreation grounds and public parks as might be deemed
necessary. Advantage was taken of these powers by the
purchase, in 1891, of over 90 acres at Ruchill, and 56
acres at Springburn, as well as by the provision of
smaller recreation grounds at Govanhill, at Garscube
Road (the Phoenix Recreation Ground, 1893) for the
Cowcaddens district, and at Rutherglen Road (Gorbals
Recreation Ground, 1893) for the Gorbals district the
last two bein- intended mainly for children. Of the
Ruchill estate, which lies between Maryhill and Possil-
park, 53 acres are devoted to recreation purposes,
while the remaining 35 are utilized for the erection
of an infectious diseases hospital similar to the one at
Belvidere. Of the S, ringburn land at Balgray Hill a
small portion (J acre) is to be feued and the rest given
over to park purposes. The band-stand in this park
was presented in 1892 by Mr. James Reid of the Hyde-
park Locomotive Works. Besides these, one or two
minor parks, about a dozen squares or open places, and
live graveyards are kept up by the Parks department,
and are open to the public.
The parks are managed by the town council, acting
as trustees under the Glasgow Public Parks Acts of
1859 and 1878. The borrowing powers of 200,000 are
exhausted. The maximum rate of assessment is 2d. per
, and a sinking fund of ' one pound per cent, per annum
on amount of sums borrowed and owing at time ' has to
be set aside every year. The revenue and expenditure
amount to over 31,000 a year.
Monuments. A large number of the public monu-
ments in Glasgow are collected in George Square, but
there are others in various parts of the city. In George
Square there are no fewer than twelve statues. In the
centre is a colossal figure of Sir Walter Scott, by
Ritchie, placed on the top of a fluted Doric column
80 feet high, erected in 1837. This was the first of
the many monuments erected to the ' Wizard of the
North.' On the E in the centre line of the square is a
bronze equestrian statue of Prince Albert, by Baron
Marochetti, erected in 1866, to correspond with a
bronze equestrian statue of the Queen by the same artist
on the W side. The latter originally stood at the W
end of St Vincent Place, where it was erected in 1854, but
it was removed to its present position in 1866, when that
of the Prince Consort was erected. They both stand on
granite pedestals. At the N\V corner of the square is
a bronze statue of Sir Robert Peel, by Mossman, erected
in 1858. At the NE corner is a bronze statue of James
Oswald, one of the members for Glasgow in the first
parliament alter the Reform Bill. It was erected in
1856, and long stood at Charing Cross, but was after-
wards removed to George Square. At the SE corner of
the square is a bronze statue of Dr Thomas Graham,
Master of the Mint, seated, by Brodie (1872). At the
SW corner is a bronze statue of James Watt, also
seated, by Chantrey (1832). Between Watt and Graham
on the S side are bronze statues of Sir John Moore and
Lord Clyde, both natives of Glasgow. The former, which
square.
statue
GLASGOW
by Flaxman, was erected in 1819; the latter, by
Foley, in 1868. It at first stood on the W side of the
A little behind Sir John Moore is a bronze
of Burns, by Ewing, which was unveiled in 1877
in presence of some 30,000 spectators. The pedestal
has bas-reliefs. The companion statue a little behind
Lord Clyde is a bronze figure of Campbell, the poet,
also a native of Glasgow. The last of the statues in
the square is one of Dr Livingstone, in the middle
of the W side; all the pedestals are of granite. In
front of the Tontine Buildings in the Trongate is an
equestrian statue of William III., erected and presented
to the city in 1735 by James Macrae, a native of Glas-
gow, who had been governor of Madras. On Glasgow
Green is a sandstone obelisk, 144 feet high, to the memory
of Lord Nelson. It was erected in 1806 at a cost of
2075. On the four sides of the base are inscribed the
names of his greatest battles. In Cathedral Square is a
bronze statue, by Mossman, of James Lumsden, Lord
Provost of Glasgow in 1843, and long honorary treasurer
of the Royal Infirmary. It is 8J feet high, stands on
a pedestal 10J feet high, and was erected in 1862.
Near by is a bronze statue of Dr Norman Macleod, erected
in 1881 ; and on one side the entrance to the Necropolis
is a statue of James White, lather of Lord Overtoun,
and on the other a statue of James Arthur, of Barshaw.
In front of the Royal Exchange in Queen Street is a
bronze equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington by
.Marochetti, one of the finest monuments in Glasgow.
It stands on a granite pedestal, and was erected in 1844
at a cost of 10,000. On the pedestal are four bronze
bas-reliefs, those at the sides representing the battles of
Assaye and Waterloo, while those at the end represent
the peaceful life of a peasant before he is called away to
war, and his happy return to his home and kindred at
the conclusion of peace. In niches in the Ingram Street
front of Hutchesons' Hospital are two ancient and some-
what primitive-looking statues of the brothers Hutche-
son. Near the centre of the S part of Kelvingrove Park
is a tasteful and beautiful excepting the gilding of the
memoration of the introduction ol the water supply from
Loch Katrine into Glasgow, and in honour of Lord
Provost Stewart, who took a prominent part in the
carrying out of the scheme. It was inaugurated in
1872. The outer basin is 60 feet in diameter, and the
fountain, which rises to a height of 40 feet and is richly
sculptured, is surmounted by a bronze figure by John
Mossman, representing the Lady of the Lake. There
are also bronze panels, one with a medallion portrait of
Lord Provost Stewart, the others with allegorical designs
representing the introduction of the water supply. On
a granite pedestal, a short distance off, is a bronze group,
representing a tigress carrying a dead peacock to her
lair, and her cubs greedily welcoming the prey. It was
presented to the city by John S. Kennedy, a native of
Glasgow, who made a large fortune in New York. Close
by is a small bronze group of a girl playing with a dog,
and intended to illustrate the lines from Coleridge:
>veth best
L and small,
Jr'or the dear God who loveth us,
There is a marble statue of Pitt, by Flaxman, in the Cor-
poration Gallery, and one, by Gibson, of Kirkman Finlay,
who did so much to develop Glasgow trade, in the Mer-
chants' Hall. The Martyrs' Memorial Fountain has been
already noticed, as well as some ot the numerous monu-
ments in the Necropolis and other cemeteries.
Public Buildings Municipal Buildings. The City
Chambers are bounded by George Square on the W,
George Street on the N, John Street on the E, and
Cochrane Street on the S, and measure 230 feet from N
to S, and 245 from E to W. Designed in the style of
the Italian Renaissance, by Mr William Young, London,
the buildings, which were erected in 1883-89, at a cost
(including site) of 520,000, are four storeys in height
all round, with a domed tower at each corner; and over
the centre of the principal facade, which is towardsGeorge
GLASGOW
Square, is a massive tower, rising to a height of 237 feet
The ground floor and first storey have square-headed
windows, and form a grand rusticated basement for the
whole pile. The second storey is treated as the principal
feature in the composition, and while the general treat-
ment is preserved on all the four fronts, each has charac-
teristics of its own, the whole of the George Square
fn.-iido havin" Venetian windows between coupled Corin-
thian columns with minor columns of the Ionic order,
the centre being crowned by a wide pediment flanked
by cupolas. On the pediment is a magnificent piece of
lonlpture. 50 feet long and 11 high, by G. A. Lawson,
London, emblematic of the Jubilee of Queen Victoria.
The central figure is that of the Queen, supported on
each side by female figures representing England, Scot-
land, Ireland, and Wales. ' The spaces at each side of
the middle group are occupied with carvings illustrative
of the various British possessions. On one side Canada
is represented, an American Indian being introduced;
Australia is shown by a gold digger: New Zealand by a
female figure suggesting agriculture, with sheep and
cattle about her; and there are numerous other carvings
representing the other colonies of the empire, to the
west of Great Britain. At the other side of the pediment
are sculptures of East Indians, a native chief being one
of the subjects, with the head and front of an elephant
shown behind. After India comes Africa, symbolized
by a white man having his arm round the neck of a
negro. Farther on, and extending out to the end of
the pediment, our Mongolian and other dependencies
to the east of Europe are indicated. The figures are
8 feet high, sufficient to show them at life-size when
'
owed from the street. ' On the apex of the
figure of Liberty supported by Riches
! has three ai
the pediment
and Honour.
arched bays separated by
,vith bands of sculpture, having
i centre the city arms, with Faith and He
The ma
coupled Ion
Hope on on
side, and Truth and Charity on the other; while on the
left of this are representations of the Fine Arts, and on
the right of the Sciences. Central gateways on the N,
W, and S sides lead into a central quadrangle; on the
ground and first floors accommodation is provided for
the offices of the different municipal departments; while
on the upper floors are the Council Chamber, banquet-
ing-hall, and reception rooms, the first 60 feet long, 30
wide, and 25 high to the top of the domed ceiling; the
second 110 feet long, 50 wide, and 50 high. These two
rooms are approached from near the entrance by two
magnificent staircases that to the former of white sand-
stone with Brescia marble and alabaster balustrading set
in white-veined marble bases and copings, while the
walls are pillared with marble and have alabaster panels.
The halls and reception rooms are richly fitted with maho-
gany, teak, satin, and amber woods. The whole build-
ing is lit by electricity.
County Buildings. These occupy the block bounded
by Ingram Street, Hutchcson Street, Wilson Street, and
Brunswick Street, of which the southern part was
erected for municipal and county purposes in 1842-44.
The centre portion was at the same time erected as a hall
for the Merchants' House, but was compulsorily acquired
for county purposes by the Court House Commissioners
in 1869, and the accommodation being still too small
for the increasing demands of the various departments,
the northern block was erected in 1874 for purely muni-
cipal purposes, for which it was used till the City Cham-
bers were occupied in 1890. The building was extensively
altered in 1895-96 for the purpose of giving increased ac-
commodation to the sheriff courts. The front to Hutche-
son Street has a hexastyle Corinthian portico. Towards
Wilson Street is a grand hexastyle Ionic portico with
sculptured basement wall. Accommodation is here pro-
vided for the county courts and public offices; and on the
W side are standard measures of length.
Courts are held in the County Buildings by the sheriff
or one of his substitutes, for criminal ami summary busi-
ness on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday
every week, and also appeal courts on Monday, Tuesday,
Wednesday, and Friday. There is a small debt court
GLASGOW
Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday, and a court
ler the Debts Recovery (Scotland) Act on Monday.
Justice of peace courts are held in the Justices Hall,
County Buildings, for cases of crime and cases under
the Revenue, Roads, Weights and Measures, etc., laws
every Monday and Thursday, at 11 a.m., and for small
debt cases every Tuesday and Friday.
Police Euildings.T\us first police office was in the
Laigh or Tron Church session-house, and was thence
moved to the N corner of Bell Street and Candle-
riggs, where it was one stair up 1 In 1825, however,
mure suitable buildings were erected at the angle of
Bell Street and South Albion Street, midway between
High Street and Candleriggs, at a cost of 15,000,
and an addition to this was made in 1851 at a
cost of 8000, the whole, as altered and improved in 1885
and 1893, now constituting the Central Police Office.
The situation was originally very central for the police
business, but, till sweepingly altered by the operations
of the City Improvement Trust subsequent to 1875, was
also eminently disagreeable and unsanitary. Bell Street
was a narrow, squalid thoroughfare, with dingy houses.
South Albion Street was a mere lane or narrow alley,
nd both were surrounded by a densely populated part
f the city. Though erected in such an unfavourable
locality, the buildings themselves are very substantial,
forming a large quadrangular block, enclosing a court
of 50 ieet by 34. An adjoining building which formerly
contained barracks and other accommodation for the
unmarried members of the force, was altered and added
to the City Hall in 1893, the necessary barrack ace
modation being provided at East Clyde Street (1892
and Southern Police Offices (1893-95). A building at the
W end of College Street, a little to the NNE, accommo-
dates the Central Fire Brigade, and contains a number
of steam fire-engines and other necessary apparatus in
connection with fire brigade work. The lighting depart-
ment has also its headquarters close by. The cleansing
department has its headquarters in extensive premises in
Parliamentary Road. These were mostly erected in 1873,
have a handsome front, and contain ample accommo-
dation for water carts, sweeping machines, horses, and
stores.
Besides the Central or Head Office, there are offices
known as the Western, Eastern, Southern, Northern,
St Rollox, Queen's Park, Maryhill, and Marine Division,
i
pectively Anderston (Cranston Street), Calton
(Tobago Street), Gorbals (Oxford Street), Cowcaddcns
M.iitlund Street), St Rollox (Tennant Street), Govan-
hill (Belleisle Street), Maryhill (Gairbraid Avenue), and
Broomielaw (M'Alpine Street). Besides these there are
police stations at East Clyde Street, Dalmarnock Road,
Camlachie, Paisley Road, South Wellington Street, Cam-
perdown Street, Springburn, and Hillhead (Byars Road).
Police courts are held every lawful day at the Central,
Western, Eastern, Southern, Northern, St Rollox,
Queen's Park, and Maryhill Offices at 10 a.m.; and
about 350 cases are disposed of on an average every day,
about one-third being due to drunkenness. The bailie
of the River and Firth of Clyde holds a court in the hall
in M'Alpine Street on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fri-
days at 9.30 a.m. The police force and fire brigade are
separately noticed.
Prisons. The first prison of Glasgow is said to have
been in a dungeon attached to the cathedral, but men-
tion is made as early as 1454 of a tolbooth at the
corner of the Trongate and High Street, on the site of
the present Cross Steeple, but no account of it has been
preserved. There was also a prison known as 'the
heicht tolbuyth' in the end of the 16th and the begin-
ning of the 17th centuries. The Cross Tolbooth, having
become decayed and ruinous, was pulled down in 1626,
and a new one erected. Franck's account of this latter
building has been already noticed. M'Ure describes it
as 'a magnificent structure, being of length from E to W
sixty-six foot, and from the S to the N twenty-four foot
eight inches; it hath a stately staircase ascending to the
justice court hall, within which is the entry of a large
turnpike or staircase ascending to the town council hall,
131
ng apparatus, and they are played every day froi
5 two, and from six to seven o'clock. The old
GLASGOW
above which there was the dean of gild's hall. . . .
The first story of this great building consists of six rooms,
two whereof are for the magistrates' use, one for the
dean of gild's court, and another for the collector of the
town's excise. ... In this great building are five
large rooms appointed for common prisoners ; the
steeple on the E end thereof being one hundred and
thirteen foot high, adorned with a curious clock, all of
brass, with four dial plates; it has a large bell for the
use of the clock, and a curious sett of chymes and time-
able bells which plays every two hours, and has four
large touretts on the corners thereof, with thanes finely
gilded, and the whole roof is covered with lead. Upon
the frontispiece of this building is his majesty's arms
finely cut out with a fine dial, and below the same is
this Latin inscription:
"HfficDomusodit Aroat Punk Conservat Honorat
Nequitiam I-acera Crimina Jura Probes."'
This being translated means
This Hou^e hates Loves Punishes Preserves Honours
Iniquity Peace Crimes the Laws the Upright
The steeple still stands as the Cross Steeple. It is 126
feet high, and the top has flying buttresses meeting
and forming an open crown. The old chime contained
twenty-eight bells, commencing at F sharp and ending
at C natural; but a new chime of sixteen bells was
inaugurated on 25 Dec. 1881. They vary in size from
21 to 40 inches, with notes G, A, B fiat, B, C, D, E
flat, E, F, F sharp, G, A, B flat, B, C, D. There is a
chil '
steeple bell passed to Caltou parish church, but was after-
wards placed in the Kelvingrove Museum. The building
erected in 1626 remained in use down to the beginning
of the 19th century. After the Reformation the house
of the prebendary of Cambuslang was fitted up as a
house of correction; this becoming unsuitable, in 1792
a building in High Street was used instead, but was
discontinued when the Duke Street Prison was erected.
The Glasgow Prison is on the N side of Duke Street,
a short distance to the E of High Street. The first
erection, which, judging from Howard's account of it,
must have been a very miserable place, passed into the
hands of the city authorities in 1798, and was greatly
enlarged in 1823-24. It was partly rebuilt in 1853 and
again altered 1870-72; but as it was still far from meet-
ing modern requirements as to prison accommodation
almost the whole of the buildings were removed and
new ones built between 1S75 and 1890, when new resi-
dences were also constructed for the governor and
warders as well as a chapel all the unskilled and part
of the skilled labour having been performed by male
prisoners. The prison proper is now composed of a
central portion and three wings, with accommodation for
400 prisoners. Two of the wings are used entirely for
women, while the wing next J)rygate is set apart for
male prisoners awaiting trial or alter conviction before
they are drafted off to Barlinnie General Prison. This
last, which is outside the city boundary on the E near
the Cumbernauld Road, consists of four blocks, each
with cell accommodation lor 200 men.
The old South, Prison, now only used for sheriff and
circuit courts, is on the W side of the Saltmarket,
near the river, to which it has its S flank, while the
main front is towards Glasgow Green. It was erected
in 1814 at a cost of 34,800, and is a quadrangular pile
measuring 215 feet along the front, and 144 from E
to W. It has in the centre of its main front a lofty
Doric portico, with a double row of fluted columns
six in front and four behind with corresponding
pilasters. There is a plain frieze and a tympanum with
the city arms. The imposing appearance of the portico
is, however, much marred by the low ground on which
it stands. At each end of the main front is a projecting
wing, with a double pair of pilasters. It is enclosed by
massive iron railings. It originally provided accommo-
dation for the circuit justiciary court which sits here
in two divisions in what are known as the Old Court
and the New Court for the county court, and for the
132
GLASGOW
municipal courts and offices; but in 1840 it was found
too small for so many bodies, and was so altered as to
leave it almost entirely devoted to court purposes.
Exchanges.- A public newsroom, for the perusal of
newspaper and other periodicals, was opened in Glas-
gow about 1770, but conferred its benefits upon only a
few. A coffee-room or exchange reading-room was
founded in the Tontine Buildings at the Cross in 1781,
but was gradually superseded by the Royal Exchange,
and became extinct about 1870. The Royal Exchange
stands in an open area called Exchange Square, on the 1- '
side of Queen Street opposite Ingram Street. The site
was formerly occupied by a house belonging to Cunning-
ham of Lainshaw, which was bought by the New Ex-
change Company and converted into offices, to which the
other buildings were added. The structure, which is one
of the finest in Glasgow, was erected in 1829 at a cost
of 60,000. The style is Corinthian, and in front is a
magnificent octostyle portico, with a double row of
columns. Behind this and extending half-way down
each side are five pilasters with a rich cornice, and from
this to the W end of the building is a colonnade with
fluted Corinthian pillars. There is a cyclastyle lantern
clock-tower, with a low-domed roof. The principal
apartment is a great newsroom, 130 feet long, 60
wide, and 30 high, with an arched roof panelled and
decorated, and supported on two rows of Corinthian
columns. There are also a number of smaller apart-
ments, used as magazine-room, newspaper file and direc-
tory consulting-rooms, merchants' office, secretary's room,
sale-rooms, telegraph, telephone, and underwriters'
offices. The subscription is 3 for members who have
residences or offices within six miles of it, and 1, 10s.
from others, and it is free for four weeks to strangers
introduced by a subscriber, and always to officers in
garrison. The wide paved space on both sides commu-
nicates with Buchanan Street through openings spanned
by Doric archways.
The Stock Exchange is situated between the Western
Club and St George's Church, at the SE corner of St
George's Place and Buchanan Street, and was erected
between 1875 and 1877 at a cost of 45,000, including
site. It lias at the SE corner a highly ornamental
tower, rising to a height of 112 feet. The frontage to
Buchanan Street is 85 feet and to St George's Place 74
feet, the height embracing three storeys. The facade
is supported at the street by Gothic pillars, and above
the arches carried on these runs a broad band of carved
lattice work, somewhat after the Moorish fashion. The
two upper flats also show traces of Gothic feeling, and
the wall is surmounted by a stone balustrade with
carved supports. The ground floor is occupied by shops;
on the first floor is the great hall, 60 feet long, 50 wide,
and 32 high. The Clearing House, which occupies the
greater part of the top storey, measures 80 by 50 feet,
and is lighted from the top by a large glass dome.
There are also a large reading-room and a telegraph
office, besides a number of smaller apartments. The
Corn Exchange stands at the corner of Hope Street and
Waterloo Street It was rebuilt in 1896 on an improved
plan, the material being red sandstone.
Post Office. In 1736 the Post Office was in Princes
Street, then called Gibson's Wynd or Lane. It was
removed to St Andrew Street about 1800, and again
in 1803 to back premises in a court at 114 Trongate.
In 1810 it was again moved to convenient premises in
South Albion Street, which were rented by the govern-
ment from the then postmaster. It was thereafter in
small premises in Nelson Street, which were found in-
convenient, and in 1840 it was removed first to Wilson
Street, and then to larger but very plain buildings in
Glasslord Street, where it remained till 1856, when it
was removed to Manhattan Buildings, at the corner of
South Hanover Street and George Square. The build-
ing it then occupied was a very plain Italian erection,
very poor as compared with the amount of business done
or the great importance of the city. It was in 1872 ex-
tended by a very plain wing to the E, but complaints
nevertheless still continued as to the utter inadequacy
GLASGOW
of the old structure, and at length in 1876 the build-
ings and ground to the E of the old Post Office towards
South Frederick Street were acquired by government,
and the K part of the present buildings on the S side
of George Square between South 1'rederiek Street and
South Hanover Street took shape in 1876-81. The
introduction of the Parcel Post in 1883 and the great
increase of general business soon brought again a demand
for more room, and in 1890-93 a south wing was added
extending to Ingram Street and occupying the site of
the old Assembly Rooms, afterwards the Athenaeum.
The main front to George Square is Italian in style,
very plain and severe, but handsome and dignified.
It extends to a length of 190 feet, and the length along
the side streets is 120 feet; the height is 76 feet, divided
into four storeys. All along the top is a massive cornice,
with panelled balustrade and a series of carved vases.
In the centre is a pediment crowned with the royal
arms. In the centre of the front is the main entrance
and letter boxes, in a lobby entered from the street by
three arched openings, with polished granite pillars, and
entablature. At the sides, entering from the George
Square lobby, are the various departments the post-
master's office, the telegraph office, the postal and tele-
graph inquiry office, and the stamp, registered letter,
private box, money order and savings bank offices, and
the paste rcstante. Behind and entered by a side door
from South Hanover Street is the postmen's and sorting
department. The basement floor contains the engine-
house and pneumatic apparatus, with dynamos and
accumulators. The apartment forming the telegraph
machine room is in the upper flat of the south building.
Mostol thedepartmentsarelitbytheeleetriclight. There
are throughout the city numerous branch and sub-offices
with money order, savings bank, and telegraph depart-
ments, as well as 163 pillar and wall boxes. At the end
of the 18th century the stalf consisted of a postmaster,
two assistants, and two letter-carriers; there were in
1896 a postmaster, 65 superintendents, assistant-super-
intendents, and clerks, and 228 sorting clerks, while the
distribution of the letters, etc., through the city and
suburbs is carried out by 524 carriers, and 202 auxiliary
letter-carriers, acting underan inspector and 12 assistant-
inspectors. The telegraph department is conducted by
3 superintendents, 20 assistant-superintendents, 22 clerks,
484 telegraphists, 18 adult messengers, 59 house messen-
gers, and 301 docket messengers, besides 10 ladies en-
gaged in the supervision of female clerks, and 4 inspec-
tors of boys. The first regular Edinburgh mail coach
was started in 1758, letters before that being conveyed
on foot or on horseback, and the first London mail
coach about 1790; there are now 30 despatches and over
50 arrivals every day to and from various parts of the
kingdom, while mails are made up for and arrive from
all parts of the world at intervals varying from a week
to a month. In 1838 the number of letters and packets
that passed through it was 22,834, and the money
orders granted numbered 1469, of the value of over
1922, while the number of letters, newspapers, post
cards, and book packets that passes through it now aver-
ages over three millions every week, and of parcels nearly
(>0,000; while the number of money and postal orders
averages over a million and a half in both number and
amount per annum. The number of telegraph messages
that passes through averages nearly seven millions per
Revenue Offices. The Inland Revenue Office, Italian
in style, is at the corner of George Street and Frederick
Street, and has a frontage of 90 feet to each street. The
height is 60 feet, and at the corner is a tower terminat-
ing in a Mansard roof. The telling-room, for the col-
lection of taxes and excise duties, is 86 feet long, 40 feet
wide, and 22 feet 6 inches high. There is also a large
room for the sale of stamps, and rooms for the collector,
surveyors of taxes, supervisors, and other oflicers of the
The first Custom House was erected about the begin-
ning of the 17th century, for in 1601 the council 'ordainit
ane lytill custome hous to be biggit npoun the Brigend.'
GLASGOW
The present building 13 in Great Clyde Street, on the
terrace between Glasgow Bridge and the Suspension
Bridge. It dates from 1840, but has neither the size
nor the appearance worthy of the importance of Glasgow
and of the large revenue here collected.
Market Places. The flesh and fish markets, which
dated from the middle of the 18th century, were in
King Street, and were long regarded as both spacious
and handsome, but they were gradually forsaken, for as
the wealthier classes moved westward the butchers and
fishmongers followed them and occupied ordinary shops,
and, the old markets being deserted, were used for dif-
ferent purposes, and were not replaced by other build-
ings destined for the same purposes. The wholesale
fish-market, origiuated in connection with clearances
made by the City Improvement Trust, and occupying
the space between Guildry Court, off Bridgegate, and the
property known as Park Place, at the corner formed by
Bridgegate, Stockwell Street, and East Clyde Street, is
most conveniently situated with reference to the river
traffic. It was constructed between 1872 and 1875, and
was altered and enlarged in 1890. The walls, rising U
a height of two storeys, are surmounted by an iron roof,
which at the ridge is 90 feet high. There are good
frontages containing shops both to the N and to the
S. In the interior are stalls on the ground floor, and
there is a gallery all round for the storage of boxes.
The City Bazaar adjoins the S side of the City Hall, and
has entrances from Candleriggs, Ingram Street, South
Albion Street, and Bell Street. It occupies the site of
the old Glasgow Bowling Green, and covers an area of
2377 square yards. It was greatly enlarged and improved
in 1885, when Bell Street and Candleriggs were altered,
and is now mostly used as a wholesale fruit and vegetable
mart. The Old Clothes Market occupies a space shaped
like the letter L, between Greendyke Street and Lanark
Street, near the W end of the Green. The principal front,
which isplain Italian instyle, is toward Greendyke Street.
One limb of the L is 78 feet long and 70 wide, while the
other is 172 feet long by 63J wide. The building is
divided into stalls and fitted with galleries, is lighted
mainly from the roof, and has ample lavatory and other
conveniences promotive of the greatest possible cleanli-
ness. It was erected in 1875, and superseded an un-
sightly structure at the foot of the Saltmarket. The
Dog and Bird Market is at the N side of the South
Prison, and formerly occupied a stance adjoining the
Bazaar. It contains accommodation for dealers in dogs,
fancy birds, poultry, pigeons, rabbits, etc.
The Cattle Market, Abattoirs, etc. In 1740 a happy
time when beef was 2d. a pound the cattle market was
outside the West Port, a little to the westward of the
Trongate end of Stockwell Street; but in 1818 it was
transferred to the ground, nearly J mile E of the Cross,
intended for the formation of Graham's Square, oil' the
Gallon-gate, where at that time 9281 square yards wero
enclosed by a stone wall, and cattle sheds, sheep pens,
and other conveniences provided. It has excellent ar-
rangements of stalls and other appliances, good railway
connections, and serves for the sale of about 400,008
head of live stock in the year. Great alterations took
place between 1878 and 1882, when the dead meal
market, the horse bazaar, bank premises, and the new
gateway were completed. The total home carcases ex-
posed for sale in it yearly number about 40,000. The
principal abattoir is in Moore Street close by, and the
cattle market, dead-meat market, and abattoir cover to-
gether an area of over 11 acres. Under the authority of
an Act obtained in 1865, the abattoir was greatly enlargi-d
and improved in 1868-70, and again in 1896-97, and
is now one of the most extensive and efficient in Great
Britain. There are other smaller ones at Milton Street
and Victoria Street, both opened in 1868. The firstcovers
a space of 12,482 square yards, extended by the clearing
away of adjoining house property; the second, a space
of 2968 square yards; and the third, a space of 4260
square yards, exclusive of adjoining house property.
The total number of animals slaughtered at Moore Street
averages over 200,000 per annum, at Milton Street about
133
GLASGOW
40,000, and at Victoria Street about 36,000. For the
accommodation of the large and increasing trade in live
cattle with America lairs and slaughter-houses have
been provided, as already noticed, at Pointhouse and
Shieldhall wharves, at each of which places provision
is now made for dealing with 2000 head of cattle at one
time. The number of cattle arriving at each wharf is
over 40, 000 every year. The market places and abattoirs
are managed by the town council in the capacity of
market commissioners, under consolidated powers granted
by the Glasgow Markets and Slaughter-houses Acts,
1865, 1871, and 1877. For the year ending 31 May
1896 the revenue was 24,266, the expenditure 18,779,
the assets 263,956, and the debts 159,436. The bor-
rowing powers of the Commissioners are 180,000, of
which 127,440 have been exercised. There is a public
Skin Market in Greendyke Street, erected in 1890 by
Mr Robert Ramsey.
Public Halls. The City Hall stands on the E side of
Candleriggs, close to the Bazaar. It was in 1885 much
improved, both internally and externally, when the
handsome Italian facade towards CandlerigffB was added.
The large hall, which is used for great public meetings
of almost every description and for concerts, rests on a
series of massive stone pillars and strong arches on the
N side of the Bazaar, and contains accommodation for
about 3000 persons. It is lit by electricity, and has a
platform, galleries, an orchestra, and a very powerful
organ. There are also small halls, committee rooms,
and a well-constructed kitchen. St Andrew's Halls
in the W end present frontages to Berkeley Street,
Granville Street, and Kent Road. The buildings, which
are very handsome, were erected by a limited liability
company between 1874 and 1877, but as they did not
prove a profitable speculation, they were in 1890 acquired
by the Corporation for public purposes at a cost of
37,000 little more than half the original outlay.
There are two floors and an entresol. The chief entrance
is by a triple door from Granville Street. On the ground
floor is a vestibule 29 by 28 feet, an inner octagonal
hall 36 feet in diameter, two side halls each 75 by 40
feet and 30 feet high. On the E side is the main or
grand hall. On the N side of the same floor is a series
of retiring rooms for ladies, and on an entresol above
these a series of rooms for ordinary meetings. On the
upper floor are two halls, each 70 by 54 feet, and a
complete suite of arrival and retiring rooms. On the
basement floor are artistes' rooms, servants' waiting-
rooms, kitchen, keeper's residence, and store-rooms.
The main hall contains a large organ, an orchestral
platform for 100 performers, a chorus gallery for 500
singers, and accommodation for an audience of 3000
persons. The Queens llooms stand in La Belle Place,
at the Clairmont Gardens entrance to Kelvingrove
Park, and olf the N side of the W part of Sauchiehall
Street. They were erected in 1850, and have a massive
appearance. The style is modified classic. On the X
and E fronts are a "number of admirable sculptures by
Mossman. On the E front on the frieze is a series of
tableaux emblematic of the rise, progress, and culmina-
tion of civilization, and over the windows are fine
medallions of James Watt, David Hamilton, Sir Joshua
Reynolds, Flaxman, Handel, Sir Robert Peel, and
Burns, representing respectively Science, Architecture,
Painting, Sculpture, Music, Politics, and Poetry. On
the frieze of the N front Minerva is shown as receiv-
ing the homage of figures representing the arts and
sciences. In the interior are a large hall and several
small ones all tastefully decorated. These are used 1'or
assemblies, concerts, and miscellaneous entertainments.
The Corporation Galleries are on the N side oi Sauchie-
hall Street, between Rose Street and Dalhousie Street.
They were erected in 1854 by Mr Archibald Maclellan
for the reception of a collection of paintings which he
proposed to bequeath to the public as the commence-
ment of a Glasgow Gallery of Art. Mr Maclellan died
before the buildings were finished, and they were pur-
chased by the corporation, along with the pictures, in
1856. The buildings, which are plain Italian in style,
GLASGOW
contain galleries for pictures and sc
the city, and accommodation for the I
of Art and Haldane Academy. The paintings and sculp-
ture are contained in six rooms, and among the examples
are many of the greatest interest and importance. There
are also floor cases containing objects of art. The
pictures number nearly 600, and consist mainly of
pictures belonging to three collections the original
Maclellan one having been supplemented first by Mi-
iiam wing, wo presente 3 pcures, an suse-
quently in 1877 by Mrs Graham-Gilbert of Yorkhill,
who bequeathed to the city the valuable collection of
pictures formed by her husband, John Graham-Gilbert,
R.S.A., but there have been numerous other donations
and bequests to a smaller extent. Mr J. C. Robinson,
F.S.A., Her Majesty's Surveyor of Pictures, who reported
on the collection to the town council in 1882, character-
ised the collection of authentic pictures by the old masters
as ' the most interesting and valuable provincial public
collection of such works in the kingdom,' and further
said, that the Corporation Gallery would, when better
known, ' take rank as a collection of European import-
ance,' and that the pictures of the Venetian school
' would be held to be notable ornaments of any, even
lebrated galleries.' Among the more import-
y be mentioned the Woman taken in
gione ; the Virgin and Child enthroned,
ubtfully, to the same artist; the Virgin
and Child with Saints, and Danae, by Titian; the Holy
Family, two different pictures, by Palma Vecchio; the
e mos ceerae
ant pictures may
Adultery, by Giorg
.lUribnicd, but dou
Holy Family, by Bordone; a very fine painting of the
Adoration of the Magi, by Antonello da Messina; th
Annunciation, by Botticelli; an Allegory of Abundance,
the
,
by Rubens; a view, Katwyck, by Ruysdael; Tobit and
the Angel, and the Painter's Study, by Rembrandt; a
Landscape in Storm, by Hobbema; as well as other
genuine works by Rembrandt, Ruysdael, Berghem,
Teniers, Cuyp, Wouvermans, Wynants, Adrian Van de
Velde, Backhuysen, Van Huysum, Netscher, Vandyck,
Willem Van de Veldc, Jan Steen, Eglon Van der Neer,
Hobbema, and Andrew Both. Among the more modern
Siictures may be mentioned several portraits by Sir
oshua Reynolds; the Relief of Lucknow, by T. Jones
Barker, with portrait figures of all the leading men
engaged ; the Death of John Brown of Priesthill, by
Thomas Duncan ; many pictures by Graham-Gilbert ;
a Coming Storm, by John Linnell, sen., a fine picture,
where the rush of the wind through the trees can almost
be heard; Turner's picture of Hero and Leander; Whist-
ler's portrait of Carlyle; a series of typical examples of
water colours by Cox, De Win t, Catermole, etc., presented
in 1892 by Mr James Orrock, London; and pictures bv
Westall, Wilkie, Pettie, and others. The chief examples
of sculpture are the statue of Pitt, by Flaxman; busts by
Chan trey, W. Brodie, Mossman, Ewing, and Nollekens;
the Nubian Slave, by A. Rossetti ; and the Oriental
Slave, by Tadolini. The galleries are open to the public
on Monday, Friday, and Saturday, free of charge, and
on Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday, which are
students' days, at a charge of 6d.
The galleries for the exhibitions of the Glasgow In-
stitute of the Fine Arts are on the S side of Sauchiehall
Street, and contain rooms for the exhibition of pictures.
The design is Greek, plain but dignified, and the walls
have panels with sculptures. In the centre, over the
entrance, the facade has six fluted Ionic columns, with
a pediment surmounted by a statue of Minerva. The
building was erected in 1880. The erection of new public
Art Galleries and Museum was begun in 1893, the surplus
of 46,000 from the Exhibition of 1888 having been
augmented by public subscriptions, etc., to the sum of
116,000. Situated in the SW portion of the West
End Park, on the site of part of the Exhibition structure,
the building, which is about 200 feet square, is Jacobean
in design, with freely treated details, and the total cost
was estimated at nearly 200,000. Over the main
entrance two towers will rise to a height of 150 feet, and
the central hall will measure 125 by 58 feet. When the
municipal boundary was extended in 1891 the police
GLASGOW
eomniissioucrsbecamebound to maintain theburgh build-
ings of Maryhill, Hillhead, and Pollokshields, and cither
to acquire the Dixon Halls in Cathcart Road for public
purposes in Crossbill and Govanhill, or erect other suit-
able buildings for the purpose. The Dixon Halls form
handsome building in the old Scottish style, and
of Go
gifted to the district in 1879 by W. S. Di
The Trades' Hall and Merchants' House. The Trades'
Hall stands on the W side of Glassford Street confront-
ing Garthland Street. Begun in 1791 and finished in
1794, it was improved and greatly enlarged in 1891.
It has a pleasant facade with Doric columns, sculptures,
and Venetian windows, and is surmounted by a fine dome,
containing a bell
