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ORDNANCE 


GAZETTEER    OF    SCOTLAND 


A  SURVEY  OF  SCOTTISH  TOPOGRAPHY, 


^iatistiral,  fiograjpljiral,  ani^  Sist0riraL 


EDITED  BY 


FRANCIS  H.   GEOOME, 

ASSISTANT   EDITOB   OF    'THE   GLOBE  ENCYCLOP^BIA. 


VOLUME   III, 


EDINBURGH: 

THOMAS     C.     JACK,     GEANGE     PUBLISHING     WOEKS. 

LONDON:    45    LUDGATE  HILL. 

GLASGOW:    48    GORDON    STREET.       ABERDEEN:    2G    BROAD    STREET. 

18  8  3. 


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XVII 


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XVIII 


jOld  Rossdhu  Castle,  Dumbartonshire. 


Stonioway  Castle,  Rjss-shire. 


XIX 


Castles  Siuclair  and  Giruigoe,  U'ick. 


Stiiiiug  in  the  beginning  of  the  18th  Century.     From  Slezer's  Theatrum  Scotice. 


XX 


Monastery  of  Inchcolm,  Fu-th  of  Forth. 


Coldingham  Priory,  Berwickshire,  prior  to  restoration  of  1854. 


XXI 


Coilsfleld,  Tarbolton,  Ayrshire  (now  Montgomerie).     The  Mansion  of  Colonel  Hugh  Sloutgomery,  afterwards 
Earl  of  Eglintou,  where  Burns's  Highland  Mary  served  as  dairymaid. 

*'  Ye  banks  and  braes,  and  streams  around 
The  castle  o'  Montgomery." 


Churchyard  of  Balquhidder,  Perthshire    The  Burial-place  of  Rob  Roy  Macgregor. 


XXII 


North  Aisle  of  the  Nave  of  Dunfermline  Abbev, 


Cape  Wrath,  Sutherlandshire. 


XXIII 


Citadel,  Leith. 


The  Old  Tolbooth,  Edinburgh—"  The  Heart  of  Midlothian  "—Demolished  in  1817. 


XXIV 


PLAN    0  r 


Scale  of.V,  a  MilB 


EDRACHILLIS 

subsoil.  In  an  early  charter  of  Coldingliam  priory,  Thor 
informs  his  lord,  Earl  David,  tliat  King  Edgar  had 
given  him  Ednaham  waste,  that  he  had  peopled  it,  and 
built  from  the  foundation,  and  endowed  ivith  a  plough- 
gate  of  land,  a  chm'ch  in  honour  of  St  Cuthbert ;  and 
he  prays  his  son  to  confirm  his  donation  of  the  church 
to  St  Cuthbert  and  the  monks  of  Durham.  'Here,' 
says  Dr  Skene,  '  we  have  in  fact  the  formation  of  a 
manor  with  its  parish  church,  and  in  a  subsequent 
document  it  is  termed  the  mother  church  of  Hedenham ' 
{Gelt.  Scotl,  ii.  367,  1877).  Hendersyde  Park,  which 
is  separately  noticed,  is  the  only  mansion ;  but  five 
proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and 
upwards.  Ednam  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Kelso  and 
sjTiod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale ;  the  living  is  worth 
£208.  The  present  church,  built  in  1800,  contains  260 
sittings  ;  and  a  public  school,  with  accommodation  for 
133  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of 
116,  and  a  grant  of  £112,  17s.  Valuation  (1882) 
£9268,  15s.  2d.  Pop.  (1801)  598,  (1831)  634,  (1861) 
599,  (1871)  613,  (1881)  QlZ.—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  25,  1865. 

Edrachillis.     See  Eddkachillis. 

Edradour,  a  burn  and  a  hamlet  in  Moulin  parish, 
Perthshire.  The  burn  runs  4J  miles  south-westward  to 
the  Tummel,  forming  at  one  point  a  picturesque  fall  of 
120  feet,  called  the  Black  Spout ;  and  the  hamlet,  Mil- 
ton of  Edi'adour,  lies  on  the  burn,  2  mUes  E  of  Pitlochry. 

Edradynate,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  a  detached 
portion  of  Logierait  parish,  Perthshire,  near  the  left 
bank  of  the  Tay,  3  miles  NE  of  Aberfeldy.  Its  owner, 
James  Stewart-Robertson,  Esq.  (b.  1823 ;  sue.  1862), 
holds  1765  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £688  per  annum. 

Edrington  Castle,  a  ruined  fortalice  in  Mordington 
parish,  Berwickshire.  Crowning  a  steep  rock  on  the 
left  bank  of  Whitadder  Water,  5  miles  W  by  N  of  Ber- 
wick, it  seems  to  have  been  a  solid  substantial  strength, 
well  fitted  to  check  incursions  and  depredations  from 
the  English  side  of  the  Tweed,  on  the  W  being  totally 
inaccessible.  It  figures  frequently  in  Border  wars  and 
treaties  ;  and, '  having  for  some  time  been  held  by  the 
EngUsh,  was  restored  in  153i  by  Henry  VIII.  to  James 
V.  Down  to  the  close  of  last  century  it  continued  to 
be  four  stories  high,  but  is  now  reduced  to  a  small  frag- 
ment. Modern  Edxington  Castle  is  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  ruins  ;  and  Edrington  House  stands  on 
the  E  bank  of  a  small  tributary  of  the  Whitadder,  4 
miles  WNW  of  Berwick. 

Edrom,  a  village  and  a  parish  in  the  E  of  central  Ber- 
wickshire. The  village  stands  near  the  right  bank  of 
Whitadder  Water,  5  furlongs  NNW  of  Edrom  station, 
on  the  Eeston  and  Dunse  branch  of  the  North  British, 
this  being  3|  miles  ESTE  of  Dunse  ;  at  it  is  a  post  and 
railway  telegraph  office. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  village  of  Allanton, 
is  bounded  N  by  Bunkle,  NE  by  Chirnsidt,  E  by  Hutton, 
SE  by  Whitsome,  S  by  Swinton  and  Fogo,  and  W  by 
Langton  and  Dunse.  With  a  very  irregular  outline,  it 
has  an  utmost  length  fi'om  ENE  to  WSW  of  75  miles, 
a  varying  breadth  of  1  mUe  and  4f  miles,  and  an  area 
of  9634-2"  acres,  of  which  89|  are  water.  Whitadder 
Water  roughly  traces  all  the  northern  and  north-eastern 
border;  and  Blackadder  Water,  coming  in  from  the 
SW,  traces  for  a  short  distance  the  boundary  with  Fogo, 
and  then  runs  5  mUes  east-north-eastward,  through  the 
interior,  to  the  Whitadder  at  Allanton.  A  mineral 
spring,  caUed  Dunse  Spa,  is  on  the  W  border,  IJ  mile 
SSE  of  Dunse  ;  and  was  long  celebrated  for  its  reputed 
medicinal  qualities,  but  fell  into  disrepute  and  total 
neglect.  The  surface  lies  all  within  the  Merse,  is 
mostly  low  and  flat,  and  rises  nowhere  higher  than  286 
feet  above  sea-level.  The  rooks  are  chiefly  clay,  marl, 
and  sandstone.  The  clay  occupies  about  two-thards  of 
the  entire  area  ;  the  marl  is  in  thin  beds,  never  more 
than  2  or  3  feet  thick  ;  and  the  sandstone  is  generally 
of  a  whitish  hue,  and  has  been  quarried.  The  soils,  to 
a  small  extent,  are  reclaimed  moor ;  in  general,  are 
highly  fertile  ;  and,  excepting  over  about  one-eighth  of 
the  entire  area,  occupied  by  roads,  buildings,  and  planta- 
tions, are  all  in  tillage.  Pools  and  lochlets  formerly 
36a 


EDZELL 

generated  marsh,  but  have  all  been  completely  drained. 
Ancient  fortalices  were  at  Broomhouse,  Nisbet,  and 
Blackadder,  and  keeps  or  bastels  were  at  Kelloe  and 
two  or  three  other  places.  Edrom  House  stands  in  the 
western  vicinity  of  Edrom  village,  and  has  beautiful 
grounds.  Other  mansions,  separately  noticed,  are  Broom- 
house,  Kelloe,  Kimmerghame  House,  Nisbet  House, 
Blackadder  House,  AUanbank,  and  Chirnside-Bridge 
House  ;  and  6  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of 
£500  and  upwards,  3  of  between  £100  and  £500,  and  2 
of  from  £20  to  £50.  Edrom  is  in  the  presbytery  oJ 
Chirnside  and  synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale  ;  the  liv- 
ing is  worth  £424.  The  parish  church,  buOt  in  1732, 
contains  600  sittings  ;  and  a  Free  church  at  Allanton 
contains  450.  Edrom  public,  Sinclair's  HiU  public, 
and  Allanton  school,  with  respective  accommodation 
for  172,  101,  and  95  children,  had  (1880)  an  average 
attendance  of  83,  50,  and  37,  and  grants  of  £81, 13s.  6d., 
£44,  14s.,  and  £18,  4s.  Valuation  (1865)  £18,879, 
12s.  Id.  ;  (1882)  £21,469,  lis.  Pop.  (1801)  1355,  (1831) 
1435,  (1861)  1592,  (1871)  1513,  (1881)  1514.— Orrf.  Sur., 
shs.  34,  26,  1864. 

Edzeil  (13th  century  Edale),  a  village  of  Forfarshire 
and  a  parish  partly  also  of  Kincardineshire.  The  vil- 
lage, formerly  called  Slateford,  stands,  185  feet  above 
sea-level,  towards  the  S  of  the  parish,  near  the  right 
bank  of  the  river  North  Esk,  and  6  mUes  N  by  W  of 
Brechin,  under  which  it  has  a  post  office,  with  money 
order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  departments.  Dat- 
ing from  the  16th  century,  but  greatly  improved  since 
1839,  it  now  is  a  pleasant  little  place,  with  its  neat 
stone  houses,  flower-plots,  and  pretty  environs  ;  and 
has  a  branch  of  the  Union  Bank,  a  National  Security 
savings'  bank,  an  insurance  agency,  2  inns,  a  gas-light 
company,  2  libraries  and  reading-rooms,  a  curlmg  club, 
and  a  Highland  games  association.  Fairs  are  held  here 
on  the  third  Thursday  of  February,  the  first  Monday  of 
May,  26  May,  the  Friday  of  July  after  Old  Deer,  the 
Wednesday  after  26  August,  the  Thirrsday  of  October 
before  Kirriemuir,  and  22  November. 

The  parish  is  bounded  NE  by  Strachan,  E  by  Fetter- 
cairn,  S  and  W  by  Stracathro,  W  by  Lethnot,  and  NW 
by  Lochlee.  It  has  an  utmost  length  of  llf  miles  from 
NNW  to  SSE,  viz.,  from  Mount  Battock  to  Inchbare 
Bridge  ;  its  greatest  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  is  5J  miles  ; 
and  its  area  is  20,229i  acres,  of  which  308S  are  water, 
and  1104  belong  to  the  Kincardineshire  or  Neudos  sec- 
tion, which  till  at  least  1567  formed  a  distinct  parish. 
The  North  Esk  flows  If  mile  north-eastward  along  the 
Lochlee  boundary,  then  6  miles  south-south-eastward 
through  the  northern  interior,  and  lastly  5  miles,  stUl 
south-south-eastward,  along  the  Kincardineshire  border ; 
at  the  SE  corner  of  the  parish  it  is  joined  by  West 
Watek,  which  winds  45  miles  east-south-eastward  along 
all  the  Stracathro  boundary.  The  delta  between  these 
streams,  to  the  S  of  the  village,  with  extreme  length 
and  breadth  of  2J  and  li  mUes,  is  low  and  flat,  sinking 
to  120,  AvhUst  nowhere  attaining  200,  feet  above  sea- 
level.  Northwards  the  surface  rises  rapidly  to  748  feet 
at  Colt  HUl,  663  at  the  Blair,  1321  at  the  HiU  of 
Corathro,  2220  at  the  *HiU  of  Wirren,  872  at  Mappact 
HUl,  1986  at  Bulg,  1686  at  *Oraigangowan,  968  at 
Whups  Craig,  and  2250  at  the  *  southern  slope  of  Mount 
Battock  (2555  feet),  where  asterisks  mark  those  heights 
that  rest  upon  the  confines  of  the  parish.  The  rocks  are 
primary  chiefly,  and  an  iron  mine  was  for  a  short  time 
worked  at  Dalbog  about  the  beginning  of  the  17th  cen- 
tivry.  Much  of  the  arable  land  consists  of  moderate 
black  loam  or  stiffish  clay,  but  hardly  more  than  an 
eighth  of  the  entire  area  is  in  tUlage,  the  rest  being  aU 
either  pastoral  or  waste,  with  the  exception  of  some  200 
acres  under  wood.  EdzeU  Castle  lies  in  a  hoUow,  IJ 
mUe  W  by  N  of  the  viUage,  and  3  furlongs  from  the  left 
bank  of  West  Water  ;  its  nuns,  for  size  and  magnifi- 
cence, are  matched  in  Angus  and  Meams  only  by  those 
of  Dunnottar.  Its  oldest  portion,  the  gi'eat  square  donjon 
or  Stirling  Tower,  to  the  S,  has  waUs  4  to  5  feet  thick, 
and  is  60  feet  high  ;  and,  till  the  havoc  wrought  by  the 
great  storm  of  12  Oct.  1838,  its  battlements  were  easUy 

553 


EFFOCK  WATER 

accessible.  The  extensive  pile  to  the  N",  though  much 
more  ruinous  than  the  keep,  dates  only  from  the  16th 
century,  having  been  buUt  by  David,  ninth  Earl  of 
Crawford,  and  his  son.  '  The  garden  wall  is  ornamented 
by  a  number  of  elaborate  carvings  in  stone.  On  the  E 
wall  are  the  celestial  deities,  on  the  S  the  sciences,  and 
on  the  W  the  theological  and  cardinal  virtues,  forming 
one  of  the  most  interesting  memorials  of  the  kind  in 
Scotland.'  The  Edzell  estate  belonged  in  1296  to  the 
Glenesks,  after  them  to  a  branch  of  the  Stirlings  which 
faUed  about  the  middle  of  the  14th  century  in  two  co- 
heiresses, one  of  whom,  Catherine,  by  Alexander,  third 
son  of  Sir  David  Lindsay  of  Crawford,  was  mother  of 
the  first  Earl  of  Crawford.  The  lordship  of  Glenesk  was 
sold  in  1715  to  the  Earl  of  Panmure  ;  and,  sharing  the 
fortunes  of  the  Brechin  property,  it  now  belongs  to 
the  Earl  of  Dalhousie.  In  1662  Edzell  Castle  received 
a  visit  from  Queen  Mary,  in  1651  from  Cromwell's  sol- 
diery, and  m  1746  from  the  Argyll  Highlanders,  to 
whom  its  ruinous  state  is  in  great  measure  due.  Auch- 
mull  Castle,  2^  miles  NNW  of  the  village,  was  also 
built  by  the  Lindsays  early  in  the  16th  century,  and 
was  demolished  in  1773.  At  ColmeaHie,  3  miles  NNW 
of  AuchmuU,  are  two  concentric  'Druidical  circles,'  the 
outermost  measuring  45  by  36  feet,  and  its  highest  stone 
standing  being  5J  feet  above  ground ;  another,  whose 
last  boulder  was  removed  in  1840,  was  at  Dalbog,  2J 
miles  NNW  of  the  village  ;  and  at  Dalbog  stood  also  a 
pre-Reformation  chapel.  Of  the  old  parish  church  of 
St  Lawrence,  on  the  bank  of  West  Water,  3  furlongs 
SSW  of  EdzeU  Castle,  only  the  Lindsays'  slated  burial 
vault  remains,  built  by  the  ninth  Earl  of  Crawford. 
George  Low  (1746-95),  the  Orkney  naturalist,  was  a 
native.  The  Earl  of  Dalhousie  owns  nearly  all  the  For- 
farshire, and  Gladstone  of  Fasque  nearly  aU  the  Kin- 
cardineshire,  portion.  Edzell  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Brechin  and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns  ;  the  living  is 
worth  £205.  The  present  church,  built  at  the  village 
in  1818,  contains  650  sittings.  'There  is  also  a  Free 
church  ;  and  two  public  schools,  Edzell  and  Waterside, 
with  respective  accommodation  for  200  and  60  children, 
had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  112  and  15,  and 
grants  of  £90,  5s.  and  £19,  18s.  8d.  Valuation  (1857) 
£4842,  (1882)  £6875,  3s.  4d.,  of  which  £630,  14s.  6d. 
was  for  the  Kincardineshire  section.  Pop.  (1801)  1012, 
(1831)  974,  (1841)  1064,  (1871)  976,  (1881)  823.— Orr?. 
Sur.,  shs.  57,  66,  1868-71.  See  the  Earl  of  Crawford's 
Lives  of  the  Lindsays  (3  vols.  1849),  and  Andrew  Jer- 
vise's  Land  of  the  Lindsays  (1853). 

Effock  Water,  a  mountain  rivulet  in  Lochlee  parish, 
Forfarshire,  running  4J  mUes  east-north-eastward  to 
the  North  Esk  at  a  point  1-J  mile  SE  of  Lochlee 
church,  and  giving  to  its  basin  the  name  of  Glen  Effock. 
It  has,  during  this  brief  course,  a  total  descent  of  1550 
feet. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  66,  1871. 

Egg.     See  EiGG. 

Eggemess.    See  Eagerness. 

Egilshay.     See  Eagleshat. 

Eglin  Lane.    See  Eagton  Lane. 

Eglinton.    See  Kilwinning. 

Eglinton  Castle,  the  chief  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Eglin- 
ton, in  Kilwinning  parish,  Ayrshire,  on  the  left  bank 
of  Lugton  Water,  2J  miles  N  of  Irvine.  A  castellated 
edifice  of  1798,  it  comprises  a  large  round  keep  and 
round  corner  turrets,  connected  by  a  curtain — to  use 
the  language  of  fortification.  The  whole  is  pierced 
with  rows  of  modern  sash-mndows,  which  in  some 
degree  destroy  the  outward  effect,  but  add  to  the  inter- 
nal comfort.  The  interior  corresponds  with  the  magni- 
tude and  grandeur  of  the  exterior.  A  spacious  entrance- 
hall  leads  to  a  saloon  36  feet  in  diameter,  the  whole 
height  of  the  edifice,  and  lighted  from  above  ;  and  off 
this  open  the  principal  rooms.  All  are  furnished  and 
adorned  in  the  most  sumptuous  manner ;  and  one  of 
them  in  the  front  is  52  feet  long,  32  wide,  and  24  high. 
Everything  about  the  castle  contributes  to  an  imposing 
display  of  splendid  elegance  and  refined  taste.  Nor  are 
the  lawns  around  it  less  admired  for  their  fine  woods, 
varied  surfaces,  and  beautiful  scenery.  The  park  is 
554 


EIGG 

1200  acres  in  extent,  and  has  one-third  of  its  area  in 
plantation. 

The  first  of  the  Anglo-Norman  family  of  Montgomerie 
that  settled  in  Scotland  was  Robert  (1103-78),  who 
probably  was  a  nephew  of  the  third  Earl  of  Shrewsbury, 
and  who,  soon  after  June  1157,  obtained  from  his 
father-in-law,  Walter  the  Steward,  a  grant  of  the  lands 
of  Eaglesham,  in  Renfrewshire.  This  was,  for  more 
than  two  centuries,  the  chief  possession  of  the  Scottish 
branch  of  the  Montgomeries.  Sir  John  de  Montgomerie, 
ninth  of  Eaglesham,  married  Elizabeth,  daughter 
and  sole  heiress  of  Sir  Hugh  de  Eglinton,  and  through 
her  acquired  the  baronies  of  Eglinton  and  Ardrossan, 
the  former  of  which  had  been  held  by  her  ancestors 
from  the  11th  century.  At  the  battle  of  Otterburn 
(1388)  he  had  the  command  of  part  of  the  Scottish 
army  under  the  brave  Earl  of  Douglas,  and,  by  his 
personal  valour  and  military  conduct,  contributed  not  a 
little  to  that  celebrated  victory.  The  renowned  Harry 
Percy,  best  known  as  Hotspur,  who  commanded  the 
English,  Sir  John  took  prisoner  with  his  own  hands ; 
and  with  the  ransom  he  received  for  him,  he  built  the 
castle  of  Polnoon  in  Eaglesham.  His  grandson.  Sir 
Alexander  Montgomerie,  was  raised  by  James  II.,  before 
1444,  to  the  title  of  Lord  Montgomerie  ;  and  his  great- 
grandson,  Hugh,  third  Lord  Montgomerie  (1460-1545), 
was  created  Earl  of  Eglinton  in  1508,  having  pre- 
viously entered  upon  a  feud  with  the  Earl  of  Glencaim, 
which  long  continued  between  their  descendants,  and 
occasionally  broke  forth  in  deeds  of  violence,  such 
as  the  burning  of  Eglinton  in  1528.  Hugh,  fourth 
earl,  a  youth  of  singular  promise,  had  enjoyed  his  in- 
heritance only  ten  months  when  he  fell  a  victim  to  this 
hereditary  feud.  Riding  from  his  own  castle  towards 
Stirling  on  20  April  1586,  he  was,  near  the  bridge  of 
Annick,  waylaid  and  shot  by  David  Cunningham  of 
Robertland  and  other  Cunninghams,  emissaries  of  the 
Earl  of  Glencah-n.  So  late  as  twenty  years  after  this 
event,  on  1  July  1606,  the  old  feud  broke  out  in  a 
violent  tumult  at  Perth,  under  the  very  eyes  of  parlia- 
ment and  the  privy  council.  In  the  18th  century,  all 
the  valuable  improvements  in  gardening,  planting,  and 
agriculture,  which,  during  half  a  century,  were  made 
in  the  parish  of  Kilwinning,  and  throughout  a  great 
part  of  Ayrshire,  proceeded,  in  great  measure,  from  the 
spirited  exertions,  combined  with  the  iine  taste,  of 
Alexander,  tenth  earl,  who  was  murdered  near  Ardrossan 
in  1769.  Nor  was  Hugh,  twelfth  earl  (1740-1819),  less 
distinguished  for  his  magnificent  and  costly  schemes  to 
enrich  the  district  of  Cunningham,  and  advance  the 
public  weal  of  Scotland,  by  improving  the  harbour  of 
Ardrossan,  and  cutting  a  canal  to  it  from  the  city  of 
Glasgow.  Under  his  successor  was  held,  in  August  1839, 
a  gorgeous  pageant,  the  Eglinton  Tournament,  one  of 
the  actors  in  which  was  Prince  Louis  Napoleon,  after- 
wards Emperor  of  the  French,  whilst  the  Queen  of 
Beauty  was  Lady  Seymour,  a  grand-daughter  of  Sheri- 
dan. The  present  and  fourteenth  Earl,  Archibald 
WiUiam  Montgomerie  (b.  1841  ;  sue.  1861),  holds 
23,631  acres  in  Ayrshire,  valued  at  £46,551  per  annum, 
including  £9520J  for  minerals  and  £4525J  for  harbour 
works.  See  Ardrossan,  Skelmoklie,  Seton,  and 
William  Eraser's  Memorials  of  the  Montgomeries  (2  vols. , 
Edinb.,  1859).— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  22,  1865. 

Eglis.    See  Eagles. 

Eglishay.    See  Eagleshay. 

Eglismonichty,  an  ancient  chapelry,  now  included  in 
Monifieth  parish,  Forfarshire.  The  chapel  stood  on  a 
crag  above  Dighty  Water,  nearly  opposite  Balmossie 
mill ;  and,  having  continued  long  in  a  state  of  ruin, 
was  demolished  for  building  material  about  1760. 

Eigg  or  Egg,  an  island  in  Small  Isles  parish,  Inver- 
ness-shire. It  lies  3  miles  NE  of  Muck,  4  SE  of  Rum, 
5  SW  of  Sleat  Point,  and  7^  W  of  Arisaig.  It 
measures  6i  miles  in  length  from  NNE  to  SSW,  4  mUes 
in  extreme  breadth,  and  5590  acres  in  area.  It  is  inter- 
sected in  the  middle,  from  sea  to  sea,  by  a  glen  ;  and  it 
takes  thence  its  name  of  Eigg,  originally  Ee,  signify- 
ing a  '  nick  '  or  '  hollow. '     It  is  partly  low,  flat,  and 


EIL 

arable  ;  partly  hilly,  rooky,  and  waste.  A  promontory, 
upwards  of  IJ  milo  in  length,  exhibits  columnar  cliffs 
almost  equal  in  beauty  to  those  of  StalTa,  and  rises  into 
a  hill,  called  the  Scuir  of  Eigg,  1339  leet  in  altitude, 
of  peculiar  romantic  contour,  skirted  with  precipices, 
and  crowned  with  a  lofty  columnar  peak.  The  rooks, 
both  in  that  promontory  and  in  other  parts,  possess 
high  interest  for  geologists,  and  are  graphicaUy  and 
minutely  described  by  Hugh  Miller  in  his  Cruise  of  the 
Betsy.  Numerous  caves,  some  of  them  wide  and 
spacious,  others  low  and  narrow,  are  around  the  coast. 
An  islet,  called  Eilan-Chastel  or  Castle  Island,  lies  to 
the  S,  separated  from  Eigg  by  a  sound  which  serves  as 
a  tolerable  harbour  for  vessels  not  exceeding  70  tons  in 
burden.  About  900  acres  are  cultivated  for  cereal  crops, 
and  are  fairly  productive.  Scandinavian  forts,  or  re- 
mains of  them,  are  in  various  parts  ;  a  barrow,  alleged 
to  mark  the  grave  of  St  Donnan,  is  on  Kildonnain  farm  ; 
and  a  narrow-mouthed  cavern  in  the  S,  expanding  in- 
ward, and  measuring  nearly  213  feet  in  length,  has 
yielded  many  skulls  and  scattez'ed  bones  of  human 
beings.  In  617  St  Donnan,  one  of  the  'Family  of 
lona,'  went,  with  his  inuintir,  or  monastic  family,  52 
in  number,  to  the  Western  Isles,  and  took  up  his  abode 
in  Eigg,  '  where  the  sheep  of  the  queen  of  the  country 
were  kept.  This  was  told  to  the  queen.  Let  them  all 
be  killed,  said  she.  That  woidd  not  be  a  religious  act, 
said  her  people.  But  they  were  murderously  assailed. 
At  this  time  the  cleric  was  at  mass.  Let  us  have  respite 
tUl  mass  is  ended,  said  Donnan.  Thou  shalt  have  it, 
said  they.  And  when  it  was  over,  they  were  slain  every 
one  of  them'  (Skene's  Celtic  Seotlatid,  ii.  152,  1877). 
Yet  grimmer  is  the  cavern's  history.  Towards  the  close 
of  the  16th  century,  a  band  of  the  Macleods,  chancing 
to  land  on  the  island,  were  hospitably  welcomed  by  the 
inhabitants,  till,  having  offered  rudeness  to  the  maidens, 
they  were  bound  hand  and  foot,  and  sent  adrift  in  a 
boat.  Rescued  by  a  party  of  their  own  clansmen,  they 
were  brought  to  Dunvegan,  the  stronghold  of  their 
chief,  to  whom  they  told  their  story,  and  who  straight- 
way manned  his  galleys  and  hastened  to  Eigg.  On 
descrying  his  approach,  the  Macdonalds,  with  their 
wives  and  children,  to  the  number  of  200,  took  refuge 
in  a  cave.  Here  for  two  days  they  remained  undis- 
covered, but,  having  sent  out  a  scout  to  see  if  the  foe 
was  departed,  their  retreat  was  detected.  A  waterfall 
partly  concealed  the  mouth  of  the  cave.  This  Macleod 
caused  to  be  turned  from  its  course,  and,  heaping  up 
wood  around  the  entrance,  set  fire  to  the  pile,  and 
suffocated  all  who  were  within  (Skene's  Highlanders,  ii. 
277,  1837).  Eigg  has  a  post  office  under  Oban,  SmaU 
Isles  parish  church  and  manse,  a  Roman  Catholic  church 
(1844),  and  a  public  school.  Pop.  (1831)  452,  (1851) 
646,  (1861)  309,  (1871)  282,  (1881)  291. 

Eil,  a  sea-loch,  partly  in  Argyllshire,  partly  on  the 
mutual  border  of  Argyll  and  Inverness  shires,  and  con- 
sisting of  two  distinct  portions — Upper  and  Lower  Loch 
Ed.  ^Upper  Loch  Ed,  commencing  4  miles  E  by  S  of 
the  head  of  Loch  Shiel,  extends  thence  6f  miles  east- 
by-southward,  with  a  varying  breadth  of  4  and  7J  fur- 
longs. Then  come  the  Narrows,  2  mUes  long,  and  1 
furlong  wide  at  the  narrowest ;  and  then  from  Gorpach, 
at  the  entrance  to  the  Caledonian  Canal,  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Fort  AViOiam,  Lower  Loch  EU  strikes  9| 
miles  south-westward,  mth  varying  width  of  5  furlongs 
and  IJ  mUe,  to  Corran  Narrows,  where  it  merges  with 
Loch  Linnhe,  of  which  it  is  often  treated  as  a  part.  It 
receives,  near  Fort  William,  the  Lochy  and  the  Nevis, 
and  is  overhung  here  by  the  mighty  mass  of  Ben  Nevis 
(4406  feet).— Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  62,  53,  1875-77. 

Eilan.     See  Ellan. 

Eildon  Hills,  The,  are  situated  in  the  parishes  of  Mel- 
rose and  Bowden,  Roxburghshire,  the  town  of  Melrose 
lying  in  the  Tweed  valley  on  the  N,  and  the  village  of 
Bowden,  which  overlooks  Teviotdale  being  on  the  S. 
They  rise  from  one  base  of  N  and  S  extension  into  three 
coneshaped  summits,  their  length  being  IJ  mile,  and 
their  breadth  ^  mile.  The  middle  summit  is  the  highest 
(1385  feet),  that  to  the  NE  attaining  1327,  and  that  to 


EILDON  HILLS,  THE 

the  S  1216,  feet.  These  summits  stand  apart,  the 
northern  5  furlongs,  and  the  southern  4,  from  the 
middle  one.  The  appearance  they  present  from  all  sides 
is  very  striking,  especially  from  the  wide  rich  country 
to  the  N,  E,  and  S  swept  by  the  Tweed  and  the 
Teviot,  and  bounded  in  the  latter  direction  by  the  blue 
Border  Cheviots.  Their  weird  aspect  from  this  quarter, 
where  these  three  summits  stand  out  in  bold  relief,  is 
enough  to  justify  the  popular  tradition  which  repre- 
sents them  as  originally  one  mass  cleft  into  three  by  the 
demon  familiar  of  Michael  Scott.  The  view  from  these 
summits  is  of  vast  scope  and  great  variety  of  interest. 
On  the  E  the  eye  ranges  over  the  curves  of  the  silver 
Tweed  as  far  as  the  rising-ground  overlooking  Berwick 
at  its  mouth,  on  the  SE  and  S  as  far  as  the  Cheviots  and 
the  long  ridge  of  Carter  Fell,  on  the  SW  to  the  hills  of 
Liddesdale  and  Eskdale,  on  the  W  to  the  heights  of 
Ettrick  and  Yarrow,  while,  as  it  sweeps  by  N,  it  takes 
in  beyond  Galashiels  the  pastoral  uplands  of  the  Gala 
and  the  darkening  range  of  the  lonely  Lammermuirs. 
The  panorama  thus  swept  is  rich  in  scenes  of  romantic 
and  historic  as  well  as  physical  interest.  On  the  hills 
themselves  are  the  remains  of  a  strong  Roman  encamp- 
ment as  well  as  a  tumulus  which  is  supposed  to  be  of 
Druidical  origin,  and  the  whole  country  to  E  and  S 
swarms  mth  legends  of  old  Border  valour,  Border  bal- 
lad, and  Border  foray.  '  I  can  stand  on  the  Eildon  Hill,' 
said  Sir  Walter  Scott,  '  and  point  out  forty- three  places 
famous  in  war  and  verse. '  'There  at  our  feet  and  to  the 
E  lie  the  rich  lands  of  the  Abbeys  of  Melrose,  Dryburgh, 
Kelso,  and  Jedburgh,  and  on  the  horizon  the  classic 
battlefields  of  Chevy  Chase  and  Flodden,  while,  over  all 
breathes  the  magic  genius  of  Sir  Walter,  whose  honoured 
ashes  rest  down  there  among  those  of  the  Dryburgh 
monks.  On  these  hills  the  imagination  may  still  trace 
the  figure  of  Thomas  the  Rhymer  ;  and  a  spot  is  pointed 
out  on  the  slope  of  the  north-eastern  hill,  marked  by  a 
stone  where  stood  the  Eildon  tree,  under  which  he  con- 
ceived and  delivered  to  superstitious  ears  the  fortune  he 
darkly  foresaw  in  store  for  his  native  country.  One  of 
his  prophecies  that  refers  to  this  spot,  forecasting  what 
might  seem  miraculous  at  the  time,  though  it  has  been 
often  since  fulfilled — 

'  At  Eildon  Tree,  if  you  shall  be, 
A  brig  over  Tweed  you  there  may  see  ; ' — 

shows  him  to  have  been  a  man  of  patriotic  fervour  as 
well  as  natural  shrewdness.  The  Roman  encampment 
here  already  referred  to,  appears  to  have  been  of  consider- 
able extent.  It  occupied  chiefly  the  north-eastern  hill, 
where  it  was  1|  mile  in  circuit,  and  where  the  remains 
of  it,  inclusive  of  two  fosses,  an  earthen  dyke,  four  gates, 
and  the  general's  quarter,  can  stUl,  it  is  said,  be  traced. 
To  place,  however,  Tremontium  on  the  Eildon  Hills  is 
to  do  great  violence  to  Ptolemy's  text,  according  to  Dr 
Skene,  by  whom  Tremontium  is  identified  with  Bkuns- 
WAKK.  The  supposed  Druidical  relic  in  the  AY  is  a 
mound,  called  the  Bourjo,  of  evidently  artificial  con- 
struction, and  here  the  Baal  priests  of  the  ancient  Cale- 
donians, it  has  been  thought,  were  wont  to  offer 
sacrifices  to  the  sun-god.  It  is  an  oak  bower,  sur- 
rounded by  a  deep  trench,  and  is  approached  by  a  plain 
way  made  to  it  from  E  to  W,  called  the  Haxalgate. 
The  hills  are  composed  of  porphyritic  trap  or  whinstone, 
Avith  a  large  proportion  of  felspar,  which  reflects  a  silvery 
gleam  in  the  sunshine  that  has  wrought  itself  into  poetic 
description  ;  while  the  soil  is  hard  and  mostly  covered 
with  grass.  On  the  southern  hiU  the  opening  of  a 
quarry  some  years  ago  laid  bare  a  perpendicular  cliff  of 
regular  basaltic  columns,  about  20  feet  elevation  of 
which  stands  exposed,  looking  over  Bowdenmoor  to  the 
W.  On  the  sides  of  these  hUls,  like  the  '  Parallel  Roads 
of  Glenroy,'  sixteen  terraces  are  traceable,  which  rise 
one  above  another  like  the  steps  of  a  stair.  The  Eildons 
lately  became,  by  purchase,  the  property  of  the  Duke  of 
Buccleuch ;  and  on  their  eastern  slope,  which  is  finely 
wooded,  stands  Eildon  HaU,  the  residence  of  the  Earl 
of  Dalkeith,  the  eldest  son  of  the  Duke.  Except  on  the 
Bowdenmoor  side,   and  where,  as  on  its  E,  there  are 

555 


EILEAN 

woods  and  enclosed  grounds,  cultivation  extends  a  good 
way  up  from  their  base,  though  not  so  far  as  it  once 
did,  it  would  seem,  under  the  monks,  on  the  side  of 
Melrose  particularly. — Orel.  Sur.,  sli.  25,  1865.  See 
chap,  xxxiv.  of  James  Hunnewell's  La'/ids  of  Scott  (Edinb. 
1871). 

Eilean.     See  Ellan. 

Eilean-Aigas.     See  Aigas. 

Eileanmore.     See  Ellanmoee. 

Eillan.     See  Ellan. 

Eire.    See  Findhoen. 

Eisdale.     See  Easdalb. 

Eishart,  a  sea-loch  in  the  S  of  the  Isle  of  Skye, 
Inverness-shire,  separating  the  Strathaird  peninsula 
from  the  upper  part  of  the  peninsula  of  Sleat.  It  opens 
at  right  angles  to  the  mouth  of  Loch  Slapin,  and,  strik- 
ing 6^  miles  east-north-eastward,  diminishing  gradually 
from  a  width  of  2J-  miles  to  a  near  point,  and  terminates 
at  an  isthmus  3J  mUes  broad  from  the  head  of  Loch 
Indal.  '  There  is  not, '  says  Alexander  Smith,  '  a 
prettier  sheet  of  water  in  the  whole  world.  Everything 
about  is  wild,  beautiful,  and  lovely.  You  drink  a 
strange  unfamiliar  air  ;  you  seem  to  be  sailing  out  of 
the  19th  century  away  back  into  the  9th.' 

Elchaig,  a  stream  of  EintaU  parish,  SW  Eoss-shire, 
formed  by  two  head-streams — the  AUt  na  Doire  Gairblie, 
flowing  5J  mUes  south-westward  from  Loch  Muirichinn 
(1480  feet) ;  aad  the  AUt  a  Ghlomaich,  which,  winding 
3f  mUes  north-north-westward  from  Loch  a  Bhealaich 
(1242  feet),  makes,  by  the  way,  the  beautiful  Falls  of 
Glomach.  From  their  confluence,  at  an  altitude  of 
290  feet,  the  Elchaig  itself  flows  6J  mUes  west-north- 
westward to  the  head  of  salt-water  Loch  Ling.  It 
is  a  fine  salmon  and  trout  stream. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
72,  1880. 

Elohies.    See  Knookando. 

Elcho,  a  ruined  castle  in  Rhynd  parish,  Perthshire, 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Tay,  4  mUes  by  river,  5J  by 
road,  ESE  of  Perth.  Ee-roofed  about  18-30,  to  preserve 
it  from  further  dUapidation,  it  is  of  considerable  extent, 
and  remains  entire  in  the  walls,  which  are  strong  and 
massive,  in  very  durable  material.  Its  battlemented 
top,  gained  by  several  winding  stairs,  in  good  preseiwa- 
tiou,  commands  magniiicent  prospects  up  and  down  the 
river.  Elcho  belongs  to  the  Earl  of  Wemyss,  and  gives 
to  him,  and  through  him  to  his  eldest  son,  the  title  of 
Baron  Elcho,  dating  from  ie2S.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  48, 
1868. 

Elderslie,  a  village  in  Abbey  parish,  Renfrewshire, 
with  a  station  on  the  Glasgow  and  South-Western  Rail- 
way, 2J  mUes  W  by  S  of  Paisley,  under  which  it  has  a 
post  of&ce.  Consisting  principally  of  two  rows  of  houses 
along  the  road  from  Paisley  to  Johnstone,  and  inhabited 
chiefly  by  weavers  and  other  operatives,  it  is  notable 
as  the  reputed  birthplace  of  Sir  WUliam  WaUace,  who 
hence  is  often  styled  the  Knight  of  Elderslie.  The 
estate  on  which  it  stands  was  granted  in  the  latter  half 
of  the  13th  century  to  Sir  Malcolm  Wallace,  who  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  the  Scottish  hero's  father,  and  with 
whose  descendants  it  continued  tUl,  in  1729,  it  came  to 
Helen,  only  chUd  of  John  WaUace  of  EldersUe,  and 
wife  of  Archibald  Campbell  of  Succoth.  By  her  it  was 
sold,  in  1769,  to  the  family  of  Speirs.  A  plain  old  house 
in  the  viUage  claims  to  be  that  in  which  Sir  William 
Wallace  was  born  ;  but,  though  partly  of  ancient  struc- 
ture, bears  unmistakable  marks  of  having  been  built 
long  after  his  death  ;  yet,  very  probably  occupies  the 
spot  on  which  the  house  of  Sir  Malcolm  WaUace  stood. 
A  venerable  yew  tree  in  its  garden,  known  popularly  as 
'  WaUace's  Yew,'  must  likewise  have  got  its  name,  not 
from  any  real  connection  with  the  patriot,  but  simply 
from  the  situation  in  which  it  stands.  A  still  more 
famous  oak  tree — 'WaUace's  Oak' — standing  a  little 
distance  to  the  E,  was  gravely  asserted  to  have  afforded 
shelter,  from  the  pursuit  of  an  English  force,  to  Wallace 
and  300  of  his  followers  ;  and  continued  in  tolerable 
vigour  till  1825,  when  its  trunk  girthed  21  feet  at  the 
base,  ISJ  feet  at  5  feet  from  the  ground,  and  67  feet 
in  altitude,  whilst  the  branches  covered  495  square 
556 


ELGIN 

yards.  Time  and  relic-mongers,  however,  had  reduced 
it  to  little  more  than  a  blackened  torso,  when  by  the 
gale  of  Feb.  1856  it  was  leveUed  with  the  dust  (pp. 
205,  206  of  Tram.  HicjM.  and  Ag.  Soc,  1881).  At  the 
vUlage  are  a  quoad  sacra  church  (1840 ;  800  sittings) 
and  the  WaUace  pubUc  school. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  30, 1866. 

Elderslie,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Renfrew 
parish,  Renfrewshire,  named  after  Elderslie  in  Abbey 
parish.  The  mansion,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Clyde,  ^ 
mile  E  of  Renfrew  town,  was  buUt  in  1777-82,  and  en- 
larged and  improved  at  subsequent  periods.  Engirt  by 
a  fine  park,  it  presents  a  handsome  frontage  to  the 
Clyde,  and  contains  a  number  of  interesting  relics  as- 
sociated with  the  name  of  Sir  WUliam  WaUace,  and 
brought  from  Elderslie  viUage.  It  owner,  Alexander 
Archibald  Speirs,  Esq.  (b.  and  sue.  1869),  holds  11,259 
acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £14,954  per  annum. 

Eldrig  or  Elrig,  a  vUlage  in  Mochrum  parish,  SE  Wig- 
townshire, 3  miles  NW  of  Port  WUUam.  Eldrig  Loch, 
1  mile  to  the  N,  Ues  260  feet  above  sea-level,  has  an 
utmost  length  and  width  of  J  mUe  and  1  furlong,  and 
contains  some  fine  trout. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  4,  1857. 

Eldrig.     See  Elleig. 

Elgar  or  Ella.     See  Shapinshat. 

Elgin,  a  parish  containing  a  city  and  royal  burgh  of 
the  same  name  in  the  E"  of  the  coimty  of  Elgin.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  N  by  Spynie  ;  on  the  NE  and  E  by  St 
Andrews-Lhanbryd ;  on  the  S  by  Rothes,  Birnie,  and 
DaUas  ;  on  the  W  by  Eafford,  and  on  the  NW  by  Alves. 
Its  shape  is  very  irregular,  but  the  greatest  length  from 
SW  to  NE  is  11  mUes,  and  its  greatest  breadth  from  N 
to  S  4J  miles.  The  area  is  19,258  acres,  of  which  nearly 
12,000  are  under  cultivation,  upwards  of  2000  are  under 
wood,  and  most  of  the  remainder  is  pasturs-land,  very 
Utile  of  the  surface  being  waste.  The  soil  varies  consi- 
derably, being  in  many  places  (especiaUy  on  the  aUuvial 
flats  lying  along  the  banks  of  the  river  Lossie)  a  good 
black  loam,  rich  and  fertile  ;  in  other  places,  particularly 
towards  the  S  of  the  parish,  it  is  a  Ught  sandy  loam  pass- 
ing in  many  parts  into  almost  pure  sand  ;  elsewhere, 
again,  it  is  clay.  The  subsoU  is  clay,  sand,  or  gravel. 
In  the  W  of  the  parish  the  underlying  rock  is  a  hard, 
whitish-grey  sandstone,  which  is  almost  throughout  of 
exceUent  quality  for  building  purposes.  In  1826  a  con- 
siderable quantity  of  it  from  the  ridge  to  the  N  of  Plus- 
carden  was  sent  to  London,  to  be  used  in  the  construc- 
tion of  the  new  London  Bridge.  In  the  E  the  underlying 
rock  is  an  impure  siUcious  limestone,  which  was  at  one 
time,  at  several  places,  quarried  and  burned  for  lime,  but 
this,  which  was  of  a  duU  brown  colour,  was  so  impure 
and  inferior,  whether  for  buUding  or  agricultural  pur- 
poses, that  the  workings  have  been  abandoned.  The 
western  part  of  the  parish  is  occupied  by  the  long  vaUey 
of  Pluscarden,  which  is  bounded  on  the  N  by  the  steep 
slope  of  the  EUdon  or  Heldun  HUl  (767  feet),  separating 
the  parish  from  Alves,  and  on  the  S  by  the  gentler 
slope  leading  to  the  Hill  of  the  Wangle  (1020),  which 
separates  Elgin  from  DaUas.  The  smface  of  the  rest  of 
the  parish  is  undulating,  and  rises  graduaUy  from  N  to 
S  from  the  height  of  about  36  feet  above  sea-level  at  the 
extreme  E  end  of  the  parish  to  a  height  of  about  900 
feet  on  the  extreme  S,  on  the  slopes  of  the  Brown  Muir 
HOI.  The  main  line  of  drainage  is  by  the  river  Lossie, 
and  the  tributary  streams  that  flow  into  it.  The  Lossie 
enters  the  parish  near  the  middle  of  the  S  side,  and 
forms  the  boundary  between  Elgin  and  Birnie  for  about 
3  mUes.  It  thereafter  passes  across  to  the  northern  side 
where  it  turns  abruptly  to  the  E  and  winds  along,  form- 
ing the  boundary  between  Elgin  and  Spynie,  and  be- 
tween Elgin  and  St  Andrews-Lhanbryd.  It  has  every- 
where a  very  winding  course,  and  is  confined  by 
artificial  banks,  against  which  (notwithstanding  its 
quiet  appearance  and  placid  flow  on  ordinary  occasions) 
it  rushes  furiously  in  times  of  flood.  About  2  miles 
from  the  city  of  Elgin  it  is  joined  by  the  Black  Burn  or 
Black  Water,  a  stream  of  fair  size,  which  flows  along 
and  carries  oif  the  drainage  of  the  whole  valley  of  Plus- 
carden. About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  lower  it  receives  the 
water  from  a  small  canal  formed  for  the  drainage  of  the 


ELGIN 


ELOm 


district  of  Mostowie  in  tho  NW  comer  of  the  parish. 
Other  small  streams  in  or  passing  partly  through  the 
parish  are  the  Tyock  and  Muirton  or  Linkwood  Burn. 
The  parish  contains  the  city  of  Elgin,  the  village  of  New 
Elgin,  and  the  hamlets  of  Clackmarras  and  Muir  of  Mil- 
tondutf.  There  is  a  distillery  at  Miltonduff,  a  brewery 
W  of  the  city  near  Bruceland,  and  a  small  woollen  mill 
at  Colebums,  near  the  entrance  of  the  Glen  of  Rothes. 
The  industries  carried  on  in  or  about  the  city  are  noticed 
in  the  following  article.  In  the  landward  part  of  the 
parish  there  are  a  number  of  meal  and  flour  mills.  The 
mansion-houses  of  Blackhills  and  Westerton  are  noticed 
separately,  as  also  is  the  chief  object  of  antiquarian  in- 
terest in  the  landward  district,  Pluscarden  Abbey.  The 
parish  is  traversed  by  the  Highland  railway,  by  the 
Morayshire  section  of  the  Great  North  of  Scotland  rail- 
way system,  by  the  main  road  from  Aberdeen  to  Inver- 
ness, and  by  the  road  to  Kothes  and  Speyside.  Four  pro- 
prietors hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards, 
38  hold  between  £100  and  £500,  59  hold  between  £50  and 
£100,  and  134  hold  each  between  £20  and  £50.  The 
parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Elgin  (of  which  it  is  the  seat) 
and  the  synod  of  Moray.  The  charge  is  collegiate,  and 
the  stipend  of  each  of  the  ministers  is  £572.  The  senior 
minister  has  besides  a  manse  and  glebe  worth  respec- 
tively £40  and  £43  a  year,  while  the  second  minister 
has  a  glebe  worth  about  £17  a  year.  The  churches  are 
noticed  under  the  city  of  Elgin,  in  which  they  all 
stand,  except  a  charge  of  the  Free  Church  of  Pluscarden, 
the  congregation  of  which  has  accommodation  in  one 
of  the  rooms  of  Pluscarden  Abbey.  This  was  formerly 
a  church  of  the  royal  bounty,  but  ceased  to  be  con- 
nected with  the  Establishment  at  the  Disruption  in  1843. 
The  parish  is  one  of  fifteen  forming  the  Morayshire 
Poor  Law  Combination,  with  a  poorhouse  in  a  suburb  of 
Elgin  to  the  N,  but  in  the  parish  of  Spynie.  The  build- 
ings, which  were  erected  in  1865,  rise  to  a  height  of  two 
stories,  and  are  surrounded  by  walled-in  grounds  of  fair 
size.  They  are  in  the  Elizabethan  style,  treated  very 
plainly.  The  porter's  lodge  is  at  the  enti-ance  from  the 
turnpike  road  to  Lossiemouth,  and  from  this  a  sti-aight 
path  leads  to  the  chief  entrance  in  the  centre  of  the  main 
building  in  which  are  the  governor's  and  matron's  rooms, 
and  the  board-room,  dining-hall,  and  chapel.  On  either 
side  of  the  central  portion  are  the  day-rooms,  with  the 
dormitories  above.  The  public  schools  of  Mostowie,  jSTew 
Elgin,  and  Pluscarden,  and  Clackmarras  school,  with  re- 
spective accommodation  for  139,  175,  120,  and  64  chil- 
dren, had  (1882)  an  average  attendance  of  77,  74,  63,  and 
35,  and  grants  of  £59,  3s. ,  £58,  2s. ,  £49,  9s.  6d. ,  and  £38, 
4s.  Valuation(1881)oflands,  £11,354,  5s.  Pop.  (1801) 
4345,  (1831)  6130,  (1841)  6083,  (1851)  7277,  (1861)  8726, 
(1871)  8604,  (1881)  8741.— Orrf.  Sur.,  shs.  95,  85,  1876. 

The  presbytery  of  Elgin  comprises  the  parishes  of  Elgin, 
Alves,  St  Andrews-Lhanbryd,  Bimie,  Drainie,  Duflus, 
Speyraouth,  Spynie,  and  Urquhart,  the  quoad  sacra  parish 
of  Burghead,  and  the  mission  of  Lossiemouth.  Pop.  (1871) 
22,966,  (1881)  23,984,  of  whom  2638  were  communicants 
of  the  Church  of  Scotland  in  1878.— The  Free  Church 
has  also  a  presbytery  of  Elgin,  with  2  churches  in  the  city 
of  Elgin,  1  in  the  glen  of  Pluscarden,  and  7  at  respec- 
tively Alves,  Burghead,  Garmouth,  Hopeman,  Lossie- 
mouth, and  Urquhart,  which  9  churches  together  had 
3144  members  in  1881. — The  United  Presbyterians  have 
a  presbytery  of  Elgin  and  Inverness,  meeting  generally 
at  Forres,  and  exercising  supervision  over  2  churches  in 
Elgin  and  10  at  respectively  Archiestown,  Bm'ghead, 
Campbelton,  Forres,  Inverness,  Lossiemouth,  Moyness, 
Nairn,  Nigg,  and  Tain,  which  12  chiirches  together  had 
1875  members  in  1880. 

Elgin,  a  city  and  royal  burgh,  and  the  county  town 
of  Elginshire,  is  one  of  the  brightest  and  most  picturesque 
little  towns  in  Scotland.  It  is  situated  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  river  Lossie  in  the  NE  end  of  the  parish 
of  Elgin,  and  includes  within  the  municipal  and  parlia- 
mentary boundaries  small  portions  of  the  parishes  of 
Spynie  and  St  Andrews-Lhanbryd.  It  has  a  station 
on  the  Highland  railway,  and  is  the  terminus  of  the 
Craigellachie  and  Lossiemouth  sections  of  the  Great 


North  of  Scotland  railway  system.  It  will  also  be  the 
terminus  of  the  new  extension  of  that  system  westward 
from  Portsoy  by  Cidlen  and  Buckie  to  Elgin,  the  bill 
for  the  construction  of  which  has  recently  (1882)  passed 
through  Parliament.  It  is  by  rail  5  miles  SSW  of 
its  seaport,  Lossiemouth,  12|  NNW  of  Craigellachie, 
18  WNW  of  Keith,  37  ENE  of  Inverness,  12  ENE  of 
Forres,  71 J  NWby  W  of  Aberdeen,  178  N  of  Edinburgh 
vid  Dunkeld  and  Forres  (187J  vid  Aberdeen),  and  194 
NNE  of  Glasgow  vid  Forres  (223^  vid  Aberdeen).  The 
main  part  of  the  city  lies  along  a  low  ridge  running  E 
and  W,  and  sloping  gently  to  the  S  ;  and  this,  as  well 
as  the  adjacent  lower  land  on  which  the  rest  of  the  town 
is  built,  is  shut  in  and  sheltered  on  all  sides  by  well- 
wooded  rising-grounds  approaching  close  to  tlie  to^vn, 
and  by  their  protection  greatly  assisting  the  sandy  and 
porous  subsoil  in  producing  the  mUd  and  healthy  climate 
which  the  citizens  enjoy.  Much  of  the  scenery  in  the 
neighbourhood  is  extremely  beautiful,  e.specially  the 
wooded  districts  to  the  W  and  N,  known  as  the  Oak- 
wood  and  Quarrywood,  and  along  the  banks  of  the  Lossie ; 
while  the  surrounding  district  is  so  fertile,  that  the  in- 
habitants delight,  and  justly  so,  in  claiming  for  the 
environs  of  their  ancient  city  the  distinguished  appella- 
tion of  '  the  Garden  of  Scotland. ' 

The  origin  of  the  name  is  lost,  and  though  many 
conjectures  have  been  made,  most  of  them  are  somewhat 
unsatisfactory.  The  derivation  that  finds  most  favour 
is  one  that  takes  its  rise  from  the  legend  on  the  cor- 
poration seal  [Sigillum  commune  civitatis  de  Hclgyn), 
and  from  the  spelling  Helgyn  it  is  argued  that  the  place 
has  received  its  name  from  Helgy,  a  general  of  the  army 
of  Sigurd,  the  Norwegian  Earl  of  Orkney,  who  about 
927  overran  Caithness,  Ross,  Sutherland,  and  Moray, 
and  who  may  possibly  have  formed  a  settlement  here  ; 
but  the  town  is  noticed  in  1190,  in  the  Chartulary  of 
Moray,  with  the  name  spelled  Elgin  as  at  present, 
which  seems  to  be  against  this.  Be  that  as  it  may, 
both  name  and  town  are  very  old,  for  we  find  that  at  an 
early  period  Elgin  was  a  place  of  note,  and  a  favourite 
and  frequent  royal  residence,  probably  on  account 
of  the  excellent  hunting  which  was  to  be  had  in  the 
neighbouring  roj'al  forests.  Nor  did  the  royal  visits 
altogether  cease  till  the  middle  of  the  16th  century. 
Edward  I.,  in  his  progress  through  the  North  in  1296, 
turned  back  at  Elgin,  after  staying  for  two  days  in  its 
royal  castle.  He  also  passed  through  it  in  1303,  when 
he  lived  for  some  weeks  at  Kinloss  Abbey,  10  miles  to 
the  W.  Again,  in  1457,  James  II.,  having  resumed 
possession  of  the  Earldom  of  Moray,  which  had  been 
held  by  one  of  his  foes  the  Douglases,  and  being  minded 
to  bestow  it  on  his  infant  son,  came  down  to  set  things 
in  order,  and  was  so  charmed  by  the  country  that  he 
stayed  for  some  time  and  hunted,  and  often  dwelt  at 
one  of  the  cathedral  raanses,  which  used  to  stand  at 
what  is  now  theiNE  corner  of  King  Street.  James  IV. 
also  paid  it  a'visit  in  1490,  and  Queen  Maiy  is  said  to 
have  also  been  in  the  neighbourhood.  It  was  a  royal 
burgh  in  the  reign  of  David  I.,  and  received  from 
Alexander  II.  a  royal  charter,  which  is  still  carefully 
preserved.  About  the  same  time  that  the  city  received 
this  royal  charter,  it  also  became  the  cathedral  seat  of 
the  great  bishopric  of  Moray,  for  in  1224  Bishop  Andrew 
de  Moravia  settled  his  episcopal  see — which  had  hitherto 
been  unfixed,  and  sometimes  at  Bimie,  sometimes  at 
Spynie,  sometimes  at  Kinneddar — permanently  at  the 
Church  of  the  Holy  Trinity  at  Elgin ;  and  to  this  it 
owes  the  peculiar  character  which  it  had  almost  un- 
altered down  to  the  beginning  of  the  present  century, 
and  which  it  still,  though  to  a  very  slight  degree, 
retains.  It  bore,  and  still  bears,  a  strong  resemblance 
to  St  Andrews — a  likeness  which  is  to  be  attributed  to 
the  circumstance  of  its  having  been,  like  that  ecclesias- 
tical metropolis,  the  seat  of  an  important  and  wealthy 
see,  and  the  residence  of  a  numerous  band  of  dignified 
ecclesiastics  and  affluent  provincial  gentry,  drawn  to- 
gether here  as  to  a  common  centre  of  attraction.  Many 
of  the  quaint  old  houses  remained  till  a  recent  period, 
and  a  few  (not  the  most  characteristic  specimens)  are 

557 


ELGIN 

still  standing,  although,  just  as  in  Edinburgh  and  else- 
where, the  ancient  mansion  -  houses  were  long  since 
'  handed  down '  to  artisans  and  others  in  the  lower 
ranks  of  life.  Though  a  new  town  has  sprung  up,  and 
the  old  has  in  a  measure  '  cast  its  skin, '  and  has  thus 
hecome  almost  entirely  renovated,  yet  the  period  is  by 
no  means  remote  when  Elgin  wore  the  antiquated,  still, 
and  venerable  aspect  which  so  well  befits  the  habits  and 
harmonises  with  the  repose  of  genuine  ecclesiastics  in 
the  full  enjoyment  of  an  intellectual  '  oHum  cum  digni- 
tate. '  Till  little  more  than  sixty  years  ago  the  town 
consisted  of  one  main  street  running  from  E  to  W,  with 
narrow  streets,  lanes,  or  closes  striking  off  from  each  side 
at  right  angles,  like  ribs  from  a  spine.  The  houses  that 
lined  the  sides  of  the  long  main  street,  as  it  then  existed, 
were  of  venerable  age,  with  high-pitched  roofs,  overlaid 
with  heavy  slabs  of  priestly  grey,  presenting  to  the 
street  the  fore-stair  and  an  open  piazza,  consistmg  of  a 
series  of  pillared  arches  in  the  front  wall  over  the 
entrance  to  a  paved  and  sheltered  court  within,  in 
which,  as  well  as  in  his  humbler  small  dark  shop  or 
cellar,  was  the  ancient  merchant  wont  at  times,  with  a 
perfect  sense  of  security,  to  leave  his  goods  and  walk 
unceremoniously  off — '  his  half-door  on  the  bar ' — to 
breakfast,  dinner,  or  his  evening  stroll.  The  piazzas  are 
all  long  since  gone,  and  only  a  very  few  of  the  houses 
in  which  they  were  now  remain,  though  several  of  the 
pillars  and  arches  are  yet  to  be  seen.  The  last  house 
that  had  the  piazza  open  was  Elchies  House,  a  most  pic- 
turesque specimen  of  the  old  burgh  architecture,  which 
was  removed  in  1845  to  make  way  for  the  buildings 
occupied  by  the  Caledonian  Banking  Company,  and 
quite  recently  the  best  of  the  remaining  examples  was 
removed  to  make  way  for  the  block  of  buildings  on  the 
N  side  of  High  Street  immediately  to  the  W  of  the 
Royal  Bank.  A  fine  stone  mantelpiece,  which  was  in 
the  old  house,  has  found  a  position  of  honour  in  the 
new  building,  and  so  also  have  the  quaint  gablets  over 
the  windows  on  the  attic  floor.  The  dates  of  their 
erection  and  the  names  of  their  proprietors  were  usually 
inscribed  upon  the  lintels  of  these  ancient  domiciles, 
and  here  and  there  might  be  seen  carved  one  of  those 
religious  quotations  which  the  taste  of  the  16th  century 
so  much  delighted  in,  and  with  which  our  Reformation 
forefathers  saluted  those  who  crossed  their  thresholds. 
The  pavement  was  an  ancient  causeway,  which  tradition 
modestly  reports  to  have  been  the  work  of  Cromwell's 
soldiers,  though  most  likely  it  was  many  ages  older. 
It  rose  high  in  the  middle,  and  the  'crown  of  the 
causeway,' where  the  higher-minded  folks  delighted  to 
parade,  was  elevated,  and  distinguished  by  a  row  of 
huge  stone  blocks,  while  those  of  a  more  moderate  size 
occupied  the  sloping  sides.  The  drains,  which  ran  along 
the  street,  were  crossed  rectangularly  by  the  common 
gutter,  which  passed  immediately  to  the  E  of  the  Com- 
mercial Bank,  and  carried  all  the  surface  sewage  of  the 
western  part  of  the  town  to  an  open  ditch  at  the 
Borough  Brigs.  In  heavy  rains  it  often  swelled  into  a 
rapid  stream  of  considerable  size.  There  were  no  side 
pavements  tUl  the  Earl  of  Fife,  aided  by  the  citizens 
and  the  road-trustees,  introduced  them  in  1821.  About 
the  centre  of  the  town  the  street  then,  as  now,  widened 
out  at  the  point  where  stand  the  parish  church  and  the 
water-fountain,  and  the  centre  of  the  wider  space  was 
occupied  by  the  old  church  of  St  Giles  and  the  'Tolbooth. 
St  Giles,  or  'the  Muckle  Kirk' — the  old  parish  church 
— was  pulled  down  in  the  end  of  1826  to  make  way  for 
the  present  parish  church.  It  was  a  very  old  building, 
so  old  indeed  that  there  is  no  record  of  its  first  erection, 
but  it  was  older  than  the  cathedral,  and  was  very  early 
mentioned  as  a  parsonage.  There  is  little  doubt  that 
the  centre  tower — a  square  heavy  mass  without  a  steeple 
— was  as  old  as  the  12th  century.  It  was  dedicated  to 
St  Giles,  the  patron  saint  of  the  city,  said  to  be  one  of  the 
early  missionaries  from  lona.  In  the  palmy  days  of  the 
cathedral's  glory  it  was  in  the  bishop's  pastoral  charge. 
The  form  of  the  church  was  that  of  a  Greek  cross,  with 
nave,  choir,  and  transepts.  The  nave  had  two  rows  of 
massive  pillars,  surmounted  by  arches ;  its  roof  outside  was 
558 


ELGIN 

covered  with  heavy  slabs  of  hewn  stone.  The  principal 
entrance  was  a  large  door  in  the  W  end,  over  which  was 
a  handsome  three-light  window.  In  the  middle  of  the 
16th  century  it  had  altars  belonging  to  the  different  in- 
corporated trades,  who  also  maintained  a  chaplain,  but 
at  the  Reformation  these  were  all  swept  a,way,  and  there 
were  lofts  or  galleries  erected  for  the  various  incorpora- 
tions, possibly  above  the  sites  of  the  old  altars,  and  pro- 
bably about  the  same  time  the  nave  and  the  choir  were 
separated,  and  the  former  became  what  was  known  as 
'  the  Muckle  Kirk,'  while  the  latter  formed  '  the  Little 
Kirk.'  The  timber  that  supported  the  roof  of  heavy 
freestone  slabs  over  the  Muckle  Kirk  having  become  de- 
cayed, the  whole  of  the  roof  fell — providentially  between 
services — on  Sunday,  22  June  1679,  the  same  day  on 
which  the  battle  of  Bothwell  Bridge  was  fought,  and 
the  whole  of  the  western  part  of  the  fabric  was  destroyed. 
The  rebuilding  began  the  following  year,  and  was  finished 
in  1684,  when  two  long  aisles,  one  on  each  side,  were 
added,  and  the  church  was  reseated  after  the  Presbyterian 
fashion.  The  massive  oak  pulpit,  which  cost  at  that 
time  £244  Scots,  is  still  to  be  seen  in  the  church  at 
Pluscarden.  It  has  some  curious  carved  work  about  it, 
and  even  yet  bears  the  old  iron  rim  for  the  baptismal 
basin,  while  the  iron  sandglass  holder  lies  close  by.  Both 
are  specimens  of  characteristic  twisted  iron  work.  Al- 
though the  interior  of  the  Muckle  Kirk, — with  its  rows  of 
massive  sandstone  pillars  running  along  the  aisles  and 
topped  by  high-peaked  arches  ;  with  its  beams  of  wood, 
from  which  were  hung  by  strong  iron  chains  massive 
brass  chandeliers  ;  with  its  old  pulpit  and  curious  gal- 
leries, and  with  its  walls  hung  from  place  to  place  with 
the  coats  of  arms  of  the  principal  heritors,  or  mth  black 
boards  setting  forth  the  charity  and  brotherly  kindness  of 
those  who  had 

'  Mortified  their  cash, 
To  mortify  their  heirs,' 

and  bequeathed  simis  of  money  to  be  managed  by  the 
kirk-session  for  the  benefit  of  the  poor, — possessed  a 
dignity  and  grandeur  of  no  common  order,  its  exterior 
was  not  at  all  rich  in  architectural  display,  but  yet 
everything  connected  with  it  was  held  in  such  veneration 
by  the  citizens  that  its  demolition  caused  a  general  feeling 
of  deep  regret,  if  not  dismay,  which  the  unequivocal 
symptoms  of  decay  and  the  impending  danger  of  a  repeti- 
tion of  the  accident  of  1679  did  not  at  all  diminish.  The 
original  transepts  were  removed  about  1740,  and  the  Little 
Kirk  was  so  ruinous  that  it  had  to  be  demolished  in  1800. 
The  old  Tolbooth  stood  to  the  W  of  St  Giles,  and  down 
to  1716  must  have  been  a  very  primitive  sort  of  erec- 
tion, for  in  1600  the  building  had  a  thatched  roof,  as  is 
testified  by  the  entry  in  the  to\vn's  records:  '  Item,  £3, 
6s.  8d.  for  fog  to  theck  the  Tolbooth.'  In  1605  a  new 
one  was  erected,  '  biggit  wt  stanes  frae  ye  kirkyard 
dyke,  and  sclaited  wt  stanes  frae  Dolass ; '  but  it  was 
burned  in  1701,  and  thenew  one,  begun  in  1709andfinished 
in  1716  or  1717,  was  used  as  court-house,  council-room, 
and  prison,  and  remained  in  use  till  1843.  It  had  a 
massive  square  tower,  with  a  round  corner  turret  and  a 
clock  and  bell.  The  bell  now  hangs  between  the  burgh 
and  county  buildings,  and  the  works  of  the  clock  are  in 
the  museum.  In  the  museum  is  also  preserved  the  lintel 
of  the  doorway,  with  the  very  suggestive  motto,  '  Suuin 
cuique  trihue.'  The  '  Muckle  Cross '  was  near  the  E  end 
of  the  old  church  of  St  GUes,  but  is  now  also  numbered 
with  the  things  that  were,  the  site  it  occupied  being 
marked  by  two  rows  of  paving-stones,  laid  so  as  to  form 
a  cross.  The  cross  itself  was  '  a  hexagonal  pillar  of 
dressed  ashlar,  12  feet  high,  and  large  enough  to  contain 
a  spiral  stair.  Around  its  base  was  a  stone  seat.  From 
the  top  of  the  pillar  rose  a  shaft  of  stone,  surmounted 
by  the  Scottish  lion  rampant,  and  the  initials  (C.  R. )  of 
King  Charles  II.'  The  'Little  Cross'  still  stands  near 
the  E  end  of  the  town,  opposite  the  Museum,  and  not 
far  from  an  old  house,  originally  with  a  piazza,  and  at 
one  time  the  place  of  business  of  Duff  of  Dipple,  an  an- 
cestor of  the  Earl  of  Fife.  It  is  supposed  to  mark  the 
western  limit  of  the  chanonry  or  precincts  of  the  cathe- 
dral, and  to  occupy  the  site  of  a  cross  erected  with  part 


ELQIN 

of  the  money  paid  in  1402  by  Alexander,  third  son  of 
the  Lord  of  the  Isles,  in  compensation  for  his  having, 
when  on  a  raid,  attacked  and  plundered  the  chanonry  of 
Elgin.  The  present  shaft  of  the  Little  Cross  is  not,  how- 
ever, older  than  the  17th  century.  The  cathedral  pre- 
cinct was  surrounded  by  a  wall  about  12  feet  in  height 
and  from  6  to  S  feet  in  thickness,  of  run  lime  work.  A 
small  part  of  it  at  the  E  gate  or  Pann's  Port  still  exists, 
and  a  considerable  portion,  extending  across  the  field  to 
the  SW  of  Pann's  Port,  was  removed  so  late  as  1866. 
Of  the  three  gates,  which  were  each  defended  by  a  port- 
cullis, the  Pann's  Port  is  the  only  one  remaining.  The 
town  itself  seems  also  to  have  at  one  time  had  some 
defence,  possibly  a  pallisade,  for  there  was  a  gate  near 
the  W  end,  called  the  West  Port,  close  to  West  Park ; 
a  second,  about  the  middle  of  Lossie  Wynd,  called 
the  Lossie  Wynd  Port ;  a  third,  at  the  S  end  of  Com- 
merce Street,  called  from  the  old  name  of  the  street  the 
School  Wynd  Port :  and  a  fourth,  in  South  College  Street, 
close  to  the  Bied  House,  called  the  East  Port.  These 
gates  were  all  removed  in  the  latter  part  of  last  century, 
and  were  probably  erected  when  the  town  and  its  ap- 
proaches were  restored  after  the  destruction  caused  by 
the  Wolf  of  Badenoch.  They  must  certainly  have  been 
of  later  date  than  the  15th  century,  for  there  is  a  per- 
sistent tradition  that  previous  to  the  Douglas  troubles 
in  the  midiUe  of  the  15th  century  the  old  church  of  St 
Giles  stood  at  the  extreme  E  end  of  the  town,  and  there 
were  buildings  extending  westward  along  the  ridge  by 
Gray's  Hospital  and  Fleurs,  as  far  as  the  knoll  (now 
^  mile  from  the  city),  called  the  Gallow  Hill.  In  1452, 
in  the  struggle  against  the  '  banded  Earls, '  the  contest 
was  carried  on  in  the  North  between  the  Earl  of  Huntly 
and  Archibald  Douglas,  Earl  of  Moray.  After  the  battle 
of  Brechin  and  the  defeat  of  the  Earl  of  Crawfurd,  Huntly 
started  in  pursuit  of  the  Earl  of  Moray,  who  had  been 
raiding  in  Strathbogie,  and  pursued  him  beyond  Elgin, 
tQl  he  took  up  a  strong  position  on  the  heights  above 
Pluscarden.  Halting  at  Elgin,*  and  finding  that  part 
of  the  to\vn  was  inhabited  by  those  favourable  to  the 
Douglas  cause,  and  the  other  part  by  those  favourable 
to  himself,  he  burned  the  whole  of  the  former  portion, 
and  hence  the  proverb,  '  Half  done  as  Elgin  was  half 
burned.'  Huntly 's  men  having,  however,  scattered  in 
search  of  plunder,  Douglas  attacked  them,  and  drove 
them  into  the  Bog  of  Dunkinty,  to  the  NW  of  the 
cathedral,  where  some  400  or  500  of  them  perished,  and 
this  gave  rise  to  the  jeering  rhyme  : 

*  Oh  where  are  your  men. 
Thou  Gordon  so  gay? 
In  the  Bog  of  Dunkinty, 
Mowing  the  hay.' 

It  is  said  that  the  part  then  burned  was  the  western 
half,  and  that  it  was  never  rebuilt,  but  that  the  new 
buildings  were  erected  to  the  E  beyond  St  Giles,  and  so 
the  town  was  continued  eastward  in  the  direction  of  the 
cathedral.  This  Archibald  Douglas  seems — though 
Lady  Hill  still  belongs  to  the  Earl  of  Moray — to  have 
been  the  last  constable  of  the  royal  castle  of  Elgin, 
which  stood  on  the  flattened  summit  of  the  Lady  Hill, 
a  conical-shaped  eminence  near  the  W  end  of  High 
Street.  The  ruins  of  the  Castle  are  all  that  remain  of 
the  oldest  building  in  connection  with  Elgin.  From 
its  isolated  and  commanding  position  Lady  Hill  no 
doubt  attracted  the  attention  of  our  rude  ancestors  at  a 
very  early  period.  It  was  a  place  of  importance,  and 
probably  fortified  with  earthworks,  in  the  time  of  the 
Celtic  Mormaers  of  Moray.  The  ruins  still  existing  are 
those  of  walls  faced  with  rough  ashlar  (now,  alas,  nearly 
all  gone),  and  backed  with  r\m  lime  work,  and  date 
from  the  time  of  David  I.,  for  Elgin  is  mentioned  as  a 
king's  burgh  in  his  reign,  and  must  therefore  have  had 
a  royal  castle  at  that  time.  Malcolm  IV.  mentions  it 
in  a  charter  granted  in  1160,  and  it  is  again  referred  to 
in  a  deed  granted  by  William  the  Lyon.  Both  David 
and  William  held  their  courts  here,  as  also  did  Alexan- 

*  Pitscottie  (2d  edit.,  Glasgow,  1749,  p.  80)  says  it  was  Forres, 
but  the  evidence  seems  conclusive  in  favour  of  Elgin,  and  the 
proverb  puts  the  matter  beyond  dispute. 


ELGIN 

der  II.  and  Alexander  III.  ;  and  Wyntoun  records 
numerous  visits  of  the  former  to  Elgin.  Edward  I.  re- 
sided in  the  Castle  during  his  two  days'  stay  at  Elgin 
in  1296  ;  and  in  the  journal  of  his  proceeding,  preserved 
in  the  Cottonian  MSS. ,  it  is  described  as  '  ion  chastcU  et 
bonne  villc,'  or  'a  good  castle  and  a  good  town.'  It 
probably  suffered,  however,  in  the  few  following  years, 
for  some  of  the  wooden  apartments  in  the  interior  of 
the  place  were  burned  whUe  it  was  held  by  the  English 
governor  (Henry  de  Rye),  and,  accordingly,  when 
Edward  returned  in  1303,  it  was  not  seemingly  con- 
sidered a  fitting  residence  for  him.  From  this  time  it 
ceased  to  be  a  royal  or  even  a  baronial  residence,  but 
still  continued  to  possess  its  keep,  chapel,  and  probably 
its  storehonses,  and  it  no  doubt  was  maintained  as  a  fort, 
and  perhaps  used  as  a  prison  for  at  least  a  century  and 
a  half  afterwards ;  but  after  the  forfeiture  of  the 
Douglases  the  buildings  were  neglected,  and  fell 
rapidly  into  decay.  The  works  seem  to  have  occupied 
the  greater  portion  of  the  flat  part  on  the  top  of  the  hill, 
which  measures  about  85  yards  in  length  by  45  in 
breadth.  It  is  difiicult  to  form  anj'  idea  of  the  plan  of 
the  buddings,  but  there  seems  to  have  been  a  strong 
outer  wall  and  a  massive  keep.  There  seem  also  to  have 
been  an  outer  and  an  inner  court,  and  a  circular  de- 
pression near  the  NAV  angle  of  the  remains  of  the  keep 
is  said  to  mark  the  draw-well.  There  were  gates  to  both 
the  E  and  the  W,  the  latter  being  the  chief  one.  From 
some  points  of  view  Lady  Hill  looks  as  if  a  smaller  hill 
had  been  set  down  on  the  top  of  a  larger,  and  for  this 
tradition  has  assigned  a  reason.  An  earlier  castle  stood 
at  a  lower  level,  but  the  '  pest '  having  appeared,  hung 
over  it  for  some  time  as  a  dark  blue  cloud,  which  was 
by  some  means  induced  to  settle,  and  then  the  inhabi- 
tants gathering,  covered  the  Castle  and  all  its  inmates 
deep  under  a  fresh  mound  of  earth,  which  now  con- 
stitutes the  upper  part  of  the  hill. 

'  the  Castle  in  a  single  night 

With  all  its  inmates  sunk  quite  out  of  sight ; 
There  at  the  midnight  hour  is  heard  the  sound 
Of  various  voices  talking  under  ground ; 
The  rock  of  cradles — wailing  infants'  cries, 
And  nurses  singing  soothing  lullabies.' 

In  1858  excavations  were  made  on  the  top  of  the  hill 
by  the  Elgin  Literary  and  Scientific  Association,  but 
nothing  of  any  importance  was  discovered.  On  the  top 
of  the  hill  now  S-tands  a  Tuscan  column  erected  by  sub- 
scription by  the  inhabitants  of  the  county  in  1839  to 
the  memory  of  the  last  Duke  of  Gordon.  A  stair  leads 
up  the  shaft,  and  from  the  top  a  very  extensive  view 
may  be  obtained.  The  statue  of  the  duke  is  12  feet 
high,  and  was  placed  on  the  top  in  1855.  The  cannon 
close  by  is  one  of  those  captured  at  Sebastopol,  and  was 
presented  to  the  city  of  Elgin  by  the  War  Office  in  1858. 
The  hill  takes  its  name — Lady  HUl — from  the  chapel  in 
the  Castle,  which  was  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary, 
and  a  spring  in  the  neighbourhood  to  the  westward — 
deep-seated,  and  very  cool  in  summer — is  still  kno%\Ti  as 
Mary  Well,  no  doubt  for  the  same  reason.  The  flat 
ground  immediately  to  the  N  of  Lady  HUl,  and  lying 
between  it  and  the  river  Lossie,  is  known  as  Blackfriars 
Haugh.  It  was  formerly  the  site  of  a  monastery,  of  the 
Dominicans  or  Black  Friars,  which  was  founded  by 
Alexander  II.,  when  the  order  was  first  introduced  into 
Scotland  in  his  reign.  No  account  of  the  building  nor 
of  anything  connected  with  it  now  remains,  nor  is  any 
trace  of  it  left,  though  some  parts  of  the  ruins  were  in 
existence  up  to  the  middle  of  last  century.  There  was 
a  monastery  of  the  Franciscans  or  Greyfriars  near  the  E 
end  of  the  town.  The  original  buildings  founded  also 
by  Alexander  II.  stood  on  the  ground  now  occupied  by 
the  garden  of  Dunfermline  Cottage,  on  the  S  side  of 
High  Street,  at  the  Little  Cross,  but  this  structure  fell 
into  decay  in  the  beginning  of  the  15th  century,  between 
1406  and  1414,  and  the  new  buildings  which  stand  on 
the  S  side  of  Greyfriars  Street,  in  the  ground  to  the  E 
of  Abbey  Street,  were  erected.  A  dovecot  and  some 
ruins  of  the  older  building  remained  till  the  beginning 
of  the  present  century,  when  they  were  demolished,  and 

559 


ELGIN 

the  stones  used  in  the  erection  of  the  present  garden 
walls  of  Dunfermline  Cottage.  Of  the  newer  buildings 
extensive  remains  still  exist.  The  walls  of  the  church 
are  pretty  entire,  though  the  roof  fell  about  the  middle 
of  the  last  century,  or  perhaps  earlier,  for  now  an  ash 
tree,  which  measures  i  feet  in  circumference,  grows 
through  one  of  the  windows.  Part  of  the  monastery 
walls  form  part  of  the  modern  mansion-house  of  Grey- 
friars.  The  church  was  the  meeting-place  of  the  trades 
from  1676  till  about  1691.  Still  further  to  the  E,  on  a 
field  now  feued  by  the  trustees  of  Anderson's  Institution 
as  a  play-field,  stood  the  Maison  Dieu,  or  House  of  God, 
a  foundation  dating  also  from  the  time  of  Alexander  II., 
and  largely  endowed  by  Bishop  Andrew  de  Moravia  for 
the  reception'of  poor  men  and  women.  It  was  burned  by 
the  Wolf  of  Badenoch  at  the  same  time  as  the  cathedral 
in  1390,  and  was  never  rebuilt.  After  the  Reformation 
the  revenues  belonging  to  it,  which  had  reverted  to  the 
Crown,  were,  by  a  charter  dated  1620,  granted  to  the 
'  Provost,  Bailies,  Councillors,  and  community  of  Elgin, ' 
to  support  poor  and  needy  persons,  to  maintain  a  teacher 
of  music,  and  to  increase  the  common  revenue  of  the 
burgh.  The  support  of  the  poor  and  needy  persons  is 
carried  out  by  the  Bied  House,  in  South  College  Street,  in 
which  4  poor  men  reside,  each  of  whom  has  a  small  house, 
a  strip  of  garden,  and  £12,  10s.  a  year.  The  original 
building  was  erected  in  1624,  but  this  structure  having 
become  ruinous  was  pulled  down,  and  the  present  one 
erected  in  1846.  The  tablet  from  the  old  house,  with  a 
representation  of  an  old  style  Bied-man,  and  the  inscrip- 
tion '  Hospitalium  Burgi  de  Elgin  per  idem  conditum, 
1624,'  and  the  text,  '  Blessed  is  he  that  considereth  the 
poor  ;  the  Lord  \Till  deliver  him  in  time  of  trouble,'  has 
been  built  into  the  gablet  over  the  doorway  of  the  new 
building.  There  was  a  Leper  House  farther  to  the  E, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road,  but  the  only  trace  of  it 
remaining  is  the  name  given  to  the  fields,  viz.,  'the 
Leper  Lands.'  Still  farther  to  the  E,  close  to  the  point 
where  the  Aberdeen  road  crosses  the  Lossiemouth  rail- 
way, is  a  pool,  tiU  recently  of  considerable  depth,  known 
as  '  the  Order  Pot,'  a  name  corrupted  most  probably 
from  the  Ordeal  Pot,  and  the  place  where  presumptive 
witches  underwent  the  ordeal  by  water.  It  may  have 
also  been  the  place  where  criminals  sentenced  to  be  put 
to  death  by  drowning  (as  was  sometimes  the  case)  were 
executed,  and  was  probably  the  only  remaining  specimen 
of  such  a  '  pit. '  In  Ehind's  Sketches  of  3Ioraij  there  is 
a  long  account  of  the  death  of  a  supposed  witch  by 
drowning  at  this  place.  Traditionally  it  was  supposed 
to  be  bottomless,  but  in  the  course  of  years  the  amount 
of  rubbish  thrown  into  it  materially  diminished  its  size, 
and  within  the  last  year  it  has  been  numbered  with  the 
things  that  were,  and  it  will  therefore  no  longer  be 
possible  that  the  old  prophecy  that 

*  The  Order  Pot  and  Lossie  grey 
Shall  sweep  the  Chan'ry  Kirk  away,' 

attributed  to  Thomas  the  Rhymer,  can  be  fulfilled. 

The  crowning  glory  of  old  Elgin,  as  of  the  modem 
city,  is  the  Cathedral,  still  grand,  though  but  a  ruin  and 
a  shadow  of  what  once  was,  when  the  cathedral  church 
of  the  diocese  of  Moray  was  not  only  '  the  lantern  of  the 
north,'  but  also,  as  Bishop  Bur  states  so  plaintively  in 
his  letter  to  the  King,  complaining  of  the  destruction 
caused  by  the  Wolf  of  Badenoch,  '  the  ornament  of  the 
district,  the  glory  of  the  kingdom,  and  the  admii'ation 
of  foreigners.'  'It  is,'  says  Chambers  in  his  Picture  of 
ScotlaTul,  '  an  allowed  fact,  which  the  ruins  seem  still 
to  attest,  that  this  was  by  far  the  most  splendid  speci- 
men of  ecclesiastical  architecture  in  Scotland,  the  abbey 
church  of  Melrose  not  excepted.  It  must  be  acknow- 
ledged that  the  edifice  last  mentioned  is  a  wonderful 
instance  of  symmetry  and  elaborate  decoration  ;  yet  in 
extent,  in  loftiness,  in  impressive  magnificence,  and 
even  in  minute  decoration,  Elgin  has  been  manifestly 
superior.  Enough  still  remains  to  impress  the  solitary 
traveller  with  a  sense  of  admiration  mixed  with  astonish- 
ment. '  Shaw  in  his  description  of  it  does  not  hesitate 
to  say  that  '  the  church  when  entire  was  a  building  of 
660 


ELGIN 

Gothic  architecture  inferior  to  few  in  Europe. '  '  At  a 
period,'  observes  Mr  Rhind,  'when  the  country  was 
rude  and  uncultivated,  when  the  dwellings  of  the  mass 
of  the  people  were  mere  temporary  huts,  and  even  the 
castles  of  the  chiefs  and  nobles  possessed  no  architectural 
beauty,  and  were  devoid  of  taste  and  ornament,  the 
solemn  grandeur  of  such  a  pile,  and  the  sacred  purposes 
with  which  it  was  associated,  must  have  inspired  an  awe 
and  a  reverence  of  which  we  can  form  but  a  faint  concep- 
tion. The  prevailing  impulse  of  the  religion  of  the 
period  led  its  zealous  followers  to  concentrate  their 
whole  energies  in  the  erection  of  such  magnificent 
structures  ;  and  while  there  was  little  skill  or  industry 
manifested  in  the  common  arts  of  life,  and  no  associa- 
tions for  promoting  the  temporal  comforts  of  the  people, 
the  grand  conceptions  displayed  in  the  architecture  of 
the  Jliddle  Ages,  the  taste  and  persevering  iudustry, 
and  the  amount  of  wealth  and  labour  bestowed  on  these 
sacred  edifices  find  no  parallel  in  modern  times.  When 
entire,  indeed,  and  in  its  pristine  glory,  the  magnificent 
temple  must  have  afforded  a  splendid  spectacle.  A  vast 
dome,  extending  from  the  western  entrance  to  the  high 
altar,  a  length  of  2S9  feet,  with  its  richly  ornamented 
arches  crossing  and  recrossing  each  other  to  lean  for 
support  on  the  double  rows  of  stately  massive  pillars — 
the  mellowed  light  streaming  through  the  richly  stained 
windows,  and  flickering  below  amid  the  dark  shadows 
of  the  pointed  aisles,  whUe  the  tapers  of  the  altars 
twinkled  through  the  rolling  clouds  of  incense — the 
paintings  on  the  walls — the  solemn  tones  of  the  chanted 
mass,  and  the  gorgeous  dresses  and  imposing  processions 
of  a  priesthood  sedulous  of  every  adjimct  to  dazzle  and 
elevate  the  fancy,  must  have  deeply  impressed  a  people 
in  a  remote  region  with  nothing  around  them,  or  even 
in  theii'  uninformed  imaginations,  in  the  slightest  degree 
to  compare  with  such  splendour.  No  wonder  that  the 
people  were  proud  of  such  a  structure,  or  that  the  clergy 
became  attached  to  it.  It  was  a  fit  scene  for  a  Latin 
author  of  the  period,  writing  on  the  "  tranquillity  of  the 
soul,"  to  select  for  his  Temple  of  Peace,  and  under  its 
walls  to  lay  the  scene  of  his  philosophical  dialogues.' 
It  has  been  already  noted  that  the  early  cathedral  of  the 
diocese  was  at  Birnie,  Einneddar,  or  Spynie.  This  practice 
seems  to  have  answered  for  a  time,  for  though  the 
bishopric  of  Moray  was  founded  by  Alexander  I.  shortly 
after  his  accession  (1107),  it  was  not  till  1203  that 
'  Bricius  the  sixth  bishop  made  application  to  Pope 
Innocent  III.  to  have  a  fixed  cathedral,  and  the  Pope 
ordered  that  the  cathedi'al  should  be  fixed  at  Spynie,' 
which  probably  led  to  the  foundation  of  what  after- 
wards developed  into  the  Bishop's  Palace  at  that  place. 
[See  Spynie.]  Bricius  died  in  1222,  and  his  successor, 
Bishop  Andrew  de  Moravia,  coming  in  the  reign  of 
Elgin's  great  benefactor,  Alexander  II.,  and  having 
obtained  from  him  an  extensive  site  on  the  banks  of  the 
Lossie,  made  in  1223  fresh  application  to  Pope  Honorius, 
representing  the  solitary  unprotected  site  of  the  cathedral, 
and  its  distance  from  market,  and  praying  that  it  might 
be  translated  to  Elgin  as  a  more  suitable  place,  and 
there  settled  at  the  church  of  the  Holy  Trinity,  a 
little  to  the  NE  of  the  town,  adding  as  an  additional 
reason  that  the  change  was  desired,  not  only  by  the 
chapter,  but  also  by  the  King.  The  Pope  readily  con- 
sented, and  on  10  April  1224  issued  a  bull  directed 
to  the  Bishop  of  Caithness,  the  Abbot  of  Kinloss,  and 
the  Dean  of  Koss,  empowering  them  to  make  the  desired 
change  if  they  should  see  fit ;  and  these  dignitaries, 
having  met  at  Elgin  on  19  July  1224,  'appointed 
the  said  church  of  the  Holy  Trinity  to  be  the  cathedral 
church  of  the  diocese  of  Moray,  and  so  to  remain  in  all 
time  coming ; '  and  on  the  same  day  the  foundation- 
stone  of  the  cathedral  was  laid  yniXi  all  due  pomp  and 
ceremony.  Bishop  Andrew  de  Moravia  lived  for  eighteen 
years  after,  and  therefore  carried  the  building  far  towards 
completion,  if  he  did  not,  as  is  most  likely,  actually 
finish  it.  Of  this  first  building  probably  now  Uttle,  if 
any,  part  is  left,  for  it  is  recorded  by  Fordun  under  the 
year  1270,  that  the  cathedral  of  Elgin  and  the  houses  of 
the  canons  were  burned,  whether  by  accident  or  design 


ELGIN 

lie  does  not  say.  Part  of  the  walls  of  the  S  transept 
seems  somewhat  dilTerent  in  structure  and  design  from 
the  rest  of  the  building,  and  may  possibly  belong  to  the 
earlier  building.  The  ruins  now  standing  probably  then 
date  from  a  period  immediately  subsequent  to  this,  and 
then  arose  that  grand  structure  which  the  Chartulary  of 
Moray  describes  as  the  '  mirror  of  the  country  and  the 
glory  of  the  kingdom  ; '  which  Bower  in  his  continua- 
tion of  Fordun  calls  '  the  glory  of  the  whole  land  ; ' 
which  Buchanan  terms  '  the  most  beautiful  of  all  which 
then  existed  in  Scotland  ; '  and  of  which,  in  still  later 
times,  Mr  BiUings  has  written  that  for  size  and  orna- 
ment, as  its  lovely  and  majestic  fragments  stiU  indicate, 
it  must  have  been  unmatched.  Stately  as  it  was,  it  was 
doomed  to  still  farther  misfortune,  for  in  1390  it  was 
again  destroyed  and  burned  by  the  Earl  of  Badenoch, 
Alexander  Stewart,  son  of  Robert  II. ,  and  best  known 
as  the  Wolf  of  Badenoch.  The  Wolf  having  seized 
some  of  the  church  lands  in  Badenoch  was  excommuni- 
cated, and  in  his  ire  descended  on  the  low  country  in 
1390,  and  in  May  burned  the  town  of  Forres  with  the 
choir  of  the  church  and  the  manse  of  the  archdeacon. 
In  June  he  followed  this  up  by  coming  to  Elgin  and 
burning  a  considerable  part  of  the  town  of  Elgin,  the 
church  of  St  Giles,  the  Hospital  of  Maison  Dieu,  the 
official  residences  of  the  clergy  in  the  chanonry,  and  the 
cathedral  itself.  This  sacrilegious  outburst  of  the  Earl 
of  Badenoch  and  his  'wyld,  \Yykked  Heland-men,'  as 
WjTitoun  calls  them,  was  too  great  to  he  overlooked, 
even  though  the  aggressor  was  the  King's  son,  and 
Bishop  Bur  sent  a  very  plaintive  appeal  to  the  King  for 
aid  and  reparation,  and  the  Wolf  was  at  last  compelled 
to  yield,  when  '  on  condition  that  he  should  make  satis- 
faction to  the  bishop  and  church  of  Moray,  and  obtain 
absolution  from  the  Pope,'  he  was  absolved  by  the 
Bishop  of  St  Andrews  in  the  Blackfriars  Church  at 
Perth.  In  spite  of  the  old  age  and  feebleness  of  Bi-shop 
Bur,  he  pressed  on  the  rebuilding  of  the  church  energeti- 
cally, and  this  was  continued  by  his  successors,  Bishops 
Spynie  and  Innes,  and  even  at  the  death  of  the  latter 
the  structure  was  not  finished,  for  at  the  meeting  of 
chapter  held  to  elect  his  successor,  the  canons  agreed 
that  whichever  of  them  was  elected  bishop,  should 
appropriate  a  third  of  the  revenues  of  the  See  for  build- 
ing purposes,  until  the  cathedral  was  completed.  Mr 
Billings  thinks  that  the  amount  of  destruction  caused  by 
the  Wolf  of  Badenoch  was  very  much  overrated ;  '  the 
pointed  arches,' he  says,  'and  their  decorations  are  a 
living  testimony  that  he  had  not  so  ruthlessly  carried 
out  the  work  of  destruction  ;  and  there  is  every  reason 
to  believe  that  the  portions  which  have  since  gi'adually 
crumbled  away  are  the  inferior  workmanship  of  the  15th 
and  16th  centuries,  while  the  solid  and  solemn  masonry 
of  the  13th  still  remains.'  The  immense  amount  of 
destruction  accomplished,  however,  may  be  best  esti- 
mated when  we  consider  the  long  period  during  which 
the  reconstruction  had  to  be  carried  on — for  the  Wolfs 
raid  was  in  1390,  and  Bishop  Innes  died  in  1414,  and 
the  rebuilding  was  not  then  completed  ;  and  this  not- 
withstanding the  fact  that  the  See  was  a  wealthy  one, 
and  that  no  doubt  a  considerable  portion  of  the  revenue 
was  devoted  to  the  building.  Even  as  it  was  some  of 
the  work  does  not  seem  to  have  been  very  good,  for  in 
1506  the  great  central  tower  which  stood  at  the  inter- 
section of  the  nave,  choir,  and  transepts,  either  fell  or 
showed  such  signs  of  impending  disaster  that  it  had  to 
be  taken  down.  It  reached  to  a  height  of  198  feet 
(including  the  spire),  and  must  have  been  a  stately 
structure,  for  the  rebuilding,  though  begun  in  1507, 
was  not  completed  till  1538,  and  from  that  time  till  the 
Reformation  the  structure  remained  perfect.  In  156S, 
however,  the  privy  council,  hard  pressed  by  their 
necessities,  appointed  the  Earl  of  Huntly  Sheriff  of 
Aberdeen  and  Elgin,  with  some  others,  '  to  take  the  lead 
from  the  cathedral  churches  of  Aberdeen  and  Elgin,  and 
sell  the  same '  for  the  maintenance  of  Regent  Moray's 
soldiers.  The  vessel  freighted  with  the  metal  had, 
however,  scarcely  left  the  harbour  of  Aberdeen  on  her 
way  to  Holland,  where  the  plunder  was  to  be  sold, 
36 


ELGIN 

when  she  sank  with  all  her  cargo.  From  that  time 
onward  the  cathedral,  on  which  so  much  care  and 
thought  had  been  spent,  was  long  left  exposed  to  the 
ravages  of  wind  and  weather.  In  1637  the  rafters  of 
the  choir,  which  had  been  standing  without  cover,  were 
blown  down,  and  in  1640  Gilbert  Ross,  minister  of 
Elgin,  '  with  the  assistance  of  the  young  laird  of  Innes, 
the  laird  of  Brodie,  and  others,  all  ardent  Covenanters, ' 
broke  down  the  carved  screen  and  woodwork  inside,  and 
destroyed  it.  In  the  presbytery  records  it  is  minuted 
on  24  Nov.  1640  that  'that  day  Mr  Gilbert  Ross 
regreatted  in  Presbyterie  the  imagerie  in  the  rood  loft 
of  the  Chanrie  Kirk,  yerfor  the  moderator  and  the  said 
Mr  Gilbert  was  appointed  to  speak  to  my  Lord  of 
Murray  for  demolishing  yrof  The  'demolishing'  was 
carried  out  on  28  Dec. ,  and  Spalding,  who  records  the 
circumstance,  tells  also  that  the  minister  was  anxious 
to  use  the  timber  for  firewood,  but  that  every  night  the 
kindling  log  went  out,  and  so  the  attempt  was  given 
up.  The  tracery  of  the  AV  window  is  said  to  have  been 
destroyed  between  1650  and  1660  by  a  party  of  Crom- 
well's soldiers.  The  walls  remained  pretty  entire  down 
to  1711,  when  on  Easter  Sunday  the  foundations  of  the 
great  central  tower  gave  way,  and  the  structure  falling 
to  the  westward,  destroyed  the  whole  of  the  nave  of  the 
building  and  part  of  the  transepts.  The  mass  of  rubbish 
became  at  ouce  a  '  prey  to  every  needy  adventurer  in 
want  of  stones  to  build  a  dyke,  a  barn,  or  a  byre,'  till 
1807,  when,  through  the  exertions  of  Mr  Joseph  King 
of  Newmill,  a  wall  was  built  round  the  churchyard,  and 
a  keeper's  house  was  erected.  In  1816  the  attention  of 
the  Barons  of  the  Exchequer,  who  claim  the  walls  and 
all  the  area  within  as  belonging  to  the  Cro'wn,  was 
called  to  the  ruinous  state  of  the  buildings,  which  have 
been  from  that  time  onwards  most  diligently  cared  for 
by  the  Crown  authorities.  Some  idea  of  the  former 
condition  of  things  may  be  formed  when  it  is  remem- 
bered that  John  Shanks,  the  first  keeper,  who  was 
appointed  to  superintend  the  ruins  in  1825,  cleared  out 
and  disposed  of  3000  barrow-loads  of  rubbish. 

Like  all  the  churches  of  the  time,  the  cathedral 
stood  E  and  W,  and  had  the  form  of  a  Jerusalem  or 
Passion  Cross.  The  principal  entrance  was  at  the  W 
end,  between  two  lofty  square  towers.  On  each  side 
of  the  nave  was  a  double  aisle.  The  aisle  on  the  S  side 
of  the  chancel,  which  is  known  as  St  Mary's  aisle,  is 
still  pretty  entire,  and  so  is  the  chapter-house,  which 
stands  near  the  angle  between  the  N  transept  and  the 
chancel.  The  great  centre  tower  rose  at  the  intersection 
of  the  nave,  choir,  and  transepts.  The  western  towers, 
which  are  still  pretty  entire,  rise  to  the  height  of  84 
feet.  The  communication  between  the  different  floors 
was  by  means  of  circular  stairs  in  one  of  the  angles  in 
each  tower.  The  great  entrance  is  in  the  wall  between, 
and  consists  of  a  finely  carved  pointed  arch,  24  feet 
high,  which  again  divides  into  two  pointed  doorways. 
The  ornamented  space  between,  at  the  top,  is  said  to 
have  contained  a  statue  of  the  Virgin,  and  the  other 
niches  may  have  been  for  statues  of  some  of  the  saints. 
Above  this  is  the  great  pointed  western  window,  28  feet 
high,  which  must  at  one  time  have  been  filled  with 
elaborate  tracery,  but  so  completely  did  Cromwell's  men 
do  their  work,  that  of  this  now  not  a  scrap  remains. 
The  great  gateway  is  entered  by  a  flight  of  steps,  and 
leads  to  the  nave,  where  the  numerous  and  splendid 
processions  used  to  take  place,  while  the  multitudes  who 
witnessed  them  were  present  in  the  aisles  at  the  sides, 
which  were  separated  from  the  nave  by  rows  of  stately 
pillars  rising  up  to  support  the  roof.  Pillars  and  roof 
are  now  alike  gone,  and  only  the  bases  of  the  former 
remain.  Between  the  nave  and  the  choir,  where  the 
rites  were  performed,  stood  the  pillars  that  supported 
the  walls  of  the  great  central  tower,  and  on  each  side 
were  the  transepts.  The  choir  extended  eastward  to  the 
high  altar,  beyond  which  was  the  Lady  Chapel.  The  S 
aisle  and  transept  were  dedicated  to  St  Peter  and  St  Paul, 
and  the  N  aisle  to  St  Thomas  h  Becket,  the  martyr. 
The  crossing  was  separated  from  the  choir  by  a  screen, 
on  the  E  side  of  which  was  a  painting  representing 

561 


ELGIN 


ELam 


the  D.iy  of  Juilgment,  and  on  the  W  was  a  representa- 
tion of  the  Crucilision.  This  "was  destroyed  in  1646, 
as  has  been  already  noticed,  by  some  zealous  Reformers. 
Spalding  records  it  as  very  wonderful,  that  although  the 
screen  had  been  standing  exposed  to  the  weather  from 
the  time  of  the  Reformation,  '  and  not  a  whole  window 
to  save  the  same  from  storm,  snow,  sleet,  and  wet, '  yet 
the  painting  '  was  so  excellently  done  that  the  colours 
and  stars  had  never  faded,  but  kept  whole  and  sound. ' 
Some  remains  of  painting  may  still  be  ti'aced  on  the 
arch  of  the  recess  in  St  Mary's  aisle,  over  the  statue 
of  Bishop  John  "Winchester,  who  died  in  1458.  The 
high  altar  stood  on  the  spot  now  occupied  by  the 
granite  monument  to  the  Rev.  Lachlan  Shaw,  one  of  the 
ministers  of  the  parish,  and  the  iirst  historian  of  the 
province  of  Moray.  The  altar  was  reached  by  an  ascent 
of  three  steps,  and  must  have  been  very  strongly  lighted, 
as  the  eastern  gable  immediately  behind  is  pierced  by  two 
rows  of  slender  lancet  -  headed  windows,  with  five  in 
each  row,  and  these  are  again  surmounted  by  the 
circidar  eastern  ivindow.  The  choir  and  the  nave  were 
also  lighted  by  a  double  row  of  windows  with  pointed 
arches,  the  lower  range  being  the  largest,  and  both  tiers 
ran  along  the  whole  extent  of  the  church.  The  stone- 
work intervening  between  the  windows  on  both  tiers 
was  constructed  so  as  to  form  a  corridor  round  the 
whole  biulding.  The  windows  were  filled  with  richly 
tinted  glass,  fragments  of  which  have  been  found 
amongst  the  ruins.  The  chapter-house,  attached  to 
the  northern  cloister,  is  extremely  elegant.  It  is  later 
in  style  than  the  other  parts  of  the  building,  and  was 
probably  buUt  diu'ing  the  incumbency  of  one  of  the 
Bishop  Stewarts,  of  whom  there  were  three,  in  the  latter 
part  of  the  15th  century.  At  all  events,  there  are  on 
the  roof  three  Stewart  coats  of  arms.  It  is  an  octagon 
with  an  elaborately  groined  roof.  The  groins  spring 
from  the  angles,  meet  at  fine  bosses,  and  again  separate 
to  reunite  in  the  centre  in  the  gi'eat  '  Prentice '  Pillar, 
which  is  9  feet  in  circumference,  and  is  a  very  beautiful 
specimen  of  the  workmanship  of  the  period.  One  side 
of  the  octagon  is  occupied  by  the  door,  and  each  of  the 
other  seven  is  pierced  by  a  large  window.  In  the 
interior,  over  the  doorway,  are  five  niches — a  row  of  four 
and  one  by  itself  over.  The  four  are  said  to  have  held 
statues  of  the  four  evangelists,  while  the  solitary  one 
above  contained  a  figure  of  the  Saviour,  but  this  seems 
doubtful.  Opposite  the  doorway  is  the  niche  reached 
by  steps,  where  the  throne  of  the  bishop  was  placed, 
and  the  space  on  either  side  was  occupied  by  the  stalls 
of  the  dignitaries  who  sat  in  council  with  him.  The 
chapter-house  is  richly  ornamented  with  sculptured 
figures,  and  it  now  also  contains  gi'otesque  heads  and 
various  other  fragments  of  carving,  which  have  been 
found  in  clearing  out  the  ruins.  It  is  like  all  the 
choice  portions  of  the  ecclesiastical  buildings  of  the 
Middle  Ages,  known  as  the  '  Apprentice  Aisle, '  having 
been  bmlt,  according  to  the  curious  but  hackneyed 
legend,  by  an  apprentice  in  the  absence  of  his  master, 
who  from  envy  of  its  excellence  mm-dered  him  on  his 
return — a  legend  so  general  (See  Roslin)  that  probably 
it  never  applied  to  any  cathedral  in  particular,  but 
originated  in  the  mysticisms  of  those  incorporations  of 
Freemasons  who  in  the  Middle  Ages  traversed  Europe, 
furnished  with  papal  bulls,  and  ample  privileges  to 
train  proficients  in  the  theory  and  practice  of  masonry 
and  architecture.  On  the  E  side  of  the  entrance  to  the 
chapter-house  is  a  small  dark  chamber  which  was  used 
as  a  lavatory.  It  has  an  interesting  association  with 
General  Anderson,  who  left  the  fortune  with  which  the 
institution  at  the  E  end  of  the  town,  now  known  as 
Anderson's  Institution,  was  built,  for  the  stone  basin 
here  was  his  cradle.  The  dimensions  of  the  cathedral 
are  as  follows  : — length  from  E  to  W,  including  towers, 
289  feet ;  breadth  of  nave  and  side  aisles,  87  feet ; 
breadth  of  choir  including  walls  and  aisles,  79  feet  ; 
length  across  transepts  including  walls,  120  feet ; 
height  of  W  towers,  84  feet ;  height  of  E  turrets,  60 
feet ;  height  of  middle  tower,  including  spire,  198  feet  ; 
height  of  grand  entrance,  24  feet;  height  of  chapter- 
562 


house,  34  feet  ;  breadth  of  chapter -house,  including 
walls,  37  feet ;  height  of  great  western  window,  27  feet ; 
diameter  of  eastern  circular  window,  12  feet ;  height  of 
side  walls,  43  feet ;  breadth  of  side  aisles,  18  feet. 

The  chapter  consisted  of  22  canons,  who  resided  within 
the  chanonry  or  college,  to  the  boundary-wall  of  which 
reference  has  already  been  made,  and  memorials  of  which 
appear  in  the  names  of  North  College  Street  and  South 
College  Street,  as  well  as  in  the  modern  mansion-houses  of 
North  College  and  South  College,  the  former  being  the 
residence  of  the  Dean — whose  memory  is  embalmed  in 
the  adjoining  flat  along  the  river  kno\\Ti  as  Deanshaugh, 
and  the  bend  beyond  known  as  Dean's  Crook — and  the 
latter  of  the  Sub-Dean.  Duffus  Manse  and  Unthank 
Manse — residences  of  the  canons  who  were  ministers  of 
Duffus  and  Unthank — which  stood  at  the  N  end  of 
King  Street,  remained  till  the  early  part  of  the  present 
century ;  the  other  18  had  disappeared  long  before. 
The  canons  were  chosen  from  the  clergy  of  the  diocese 
and  officiated  in  the  cathedral,  each  receiving  for  his 
services  over  and  above  the  revenues  of  his  vicarage  in 
the  country  parish,  whence  he  was  chosen,  a  manse  and 
garden  in  the  college,  and  a  portion  of  land  called  a  pre- 
bendum.  The  dignified  clergy  were  the  Dean,  who 
was  minister  of  Auldearn ;  the  Archdeacon,  who  was 
minister  of  Forres ;  the  Chanter,  who  was  minister  of 
Alves  ;  the  Treasurer,  who  was  minister  of  Kinneddar  ; 
the  Chancellor,  who  was  minister  of  Inveraven ; 
the  Sub-Dean,  who  was  minister  of  Dallas ;  and 
the  Sub-Chanter,  who  was  minister  of  Rafford.  The 
Bishop  had  civil,  criminal,  and  ecclesiastical  courts  and 
officers,  and  his  power  within  his  diocese — which  com- 
prehended the  present  counties  of  Moray  and  Nairn,  and 
part  of  those  of  Aberdeen,  Banff,  and  Inverness — was 
almost  supreme.  The  first  Bishop  of  Moray  on  record 
is  Gregory,  who  held  the  See  in  the  reign  of  Alexander 
I.  and  the  beginning  of  that  of  David  I.  There  were  28 
Roman  CathoHe  and  8  Protestant  Bishops — the  last  of  the 
former  being  Patrick  Hepburn,  an  uncle  of  the  notori- 
ous Earl  of  Ijothwell.  The  Bishop's  town  residence,  or 
the  Bishop's  Palace,  as  it  is  commonly  called,  stands 
close  to  the  SW  corner  of  the  enclosing-wall  of  the 
cathedral.  The  northern  part  is  supposed  to  have  been 
erected  by  Bishop  John  Innes  about  1406,  but  besides 
his  initials  it  bears  also  the  arms  of  one  of  the  bishops 
of  the  name  of  Stewart,  probably  David.  The  S  wing 
was  built  by  Bishop  Patrick  Hepburn,  and  bears  his 
arms  and  initials,  with  the  date  1557.  Soon  after  the 
Reformation  it  was  granted  by  the  Crown  to  Alexander 
Seton,  Earl  of  Dunfermline,  who  lived  a  considerable  time 
in  it,  and  from  whom  it  got  the  name  of  Dimfermline 
House.  Probably  the  Bishops  never  lived  much  in  it, 
as  they  had  their  principal  residence  at  Spynie  Castle. 

The  revenues  of  the  bishopric  were  no  doubt  at  first 
very  limited,  but  by  the  bounty  of  successive  kings, 
nobles,  and  private  individuals,  they  afterwards  became 
very  ample.  King  William  the  Lyon  was  a  liberal  donor. 
At  a  very  early  period  he  granted  to  the  See  the  tenth 
of  all  his  returns  from  Moray.  Grants  of  forests,  lands, 
and  fishings  were  also  made  by  Alexander  II.,  David 
II. ,  and  other  sovereigns,  besides  the  Earls  of  Moray, 
Fife,  etc.  The  rental  for  the  year  1563,  as  taken  by  the 
steward  of  the  bishop,  was  £1649,  7s.  7d.  (Scots),  besides 
a  variety  of  articles  paid  in  kind.  At  this  period,  how- 
ever, the  revenue  had  been  greatly  dilapidated,  particu- 
larly by  Bishop  Hepburn,  and  a  large  proportion  of  the 
church  lands  had  been  alienated,  the  full  rents  were  not 
stated,  and  probably  the  rental  then  given  did  not 
amount  to  a  third  of  the  actual  income  in  the  flourishing 
period  of  the  bishopric.  The  estates  with  the  patronages 
belonging  to  the  bishop  remained  vested  in  the  Crown 
from  the  Reformation  till  1590,  when  James  VI.  as- 
signed them  to  Alexander  Lindsay,  a  son  of  the  Earl 
of  Crawford,  and  grandson  of  Cardinal  Beaton,  for 
payment  of  10,000  gold  crowns  which  he  had  lent  to 
his  Majesty  when  in  Denmark,  Lindsay  being  at  the 
same  time  created  Baron  Spynie.  The  King  afterwards 
prevailed  on  Lord  Spynie  to  resign  the  lands  in  order 
that  they  might  be  appropriated  to  the  use  of  the  Pro- 


ELGIN 

testant  bishops  of  Moray,  but  the  rights  of  patronage 
remained  with  tlie  Spynie  family  till  its  extinction  in 
1671,  when  they  were  reassumed  by  the  Crown  as  uUi- 
mushmrcs.  They  were  granted  by  charter  in  1674  to 
James,  Earl  of  Airlie,  by  whom  they  were  disponed  to 
the  Marquis  of  Huntly  in  1682. 

The  burying-grouud  about  the  cathedral  contains 
many  quaint  and  curious  monuments,  the  inscriptions 
on   some   of  the  17th  and  ISth  centmy  stones  being 

Particularly  noteworthy.      On  one  dated  1777  a  hus- 
and  records  of  his  wife  that — 

*  She  was  remarkable  for 
Exact,  Prudent,  Genteel  Economy ; 
Ready,  Equal  Good  Sence  ; 
A  Constant  flow  of  cheerful  Spirits  ; 
An  uncommon  sweetness  of  natural  temper  ; 
A  great  warmth  of  Heart  Affection, 
And  an  early  and  continued  piety.' 

And  he  adds  that  '  strict  justice  demands  this  tribute  to 
her  memory.'  On  another,  with  the  date  1687,  are  four 
very  pointed  lines — 

*  This  world  is  a  Citie  full  of  streets, 
And  death  is  the  mercat  that  all  men  meets. 
If  lyfe  were  a  thinij  that  monic  could  buy, 
The  poor  could  not  live  and  the  rich  would  not  die' 

The  stone  coffin  near  the  S  entrance  is  said  to  have  con- 
tained the  body  of  King  Duncan,  previous  to  its  re- 
moval and  re-interment  at  lona.  St  Mary's  aisle  was 
the  burial-place  of  the  Gordon  family,  the  tomb  in  the 
E  end  being  that  of  the  first  Earl  of  Huntly  (date  1470). 
The  blue  slab  in  the  N"VV  corner  marks  the  bmial -place 
of  some  of  the  bishops,  and  the  great  blue  slab  in  the 
chancel,  close  by,  marks  the  grave  of  Bishop  Andrew  de 
Moravia,  the  founder  of  the  cathedral.  The  granite 
monument  to  the  Rev.  Lachlan  Shaw  has  been  already 
mentioned.  In  a  line  with  the  wall  of  the  chancel  and 
of  the  N  transept  is  an  old  Celtic  pillar  which  was  found 
in  1823  about  2  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  High  Street, 
near  the  site  of  old  St  GUes  Church.  It  is  6  feet 
long,  2J  broad,  and  1  thick,  but  is  evidently  incomplete. 
On  the  obverse  is  a  hunting  party  with  men,  horses, 
and  hawks,  and,  on  the  reverse,  is  a  cross  covered  with 
-so-called  Runic  knots,  and  iigures   in  the  attitude  of 


Arms  of  Elgin. 

■supplication.  The  arms  of  Elgin  are  Saint  Giles  in  a 
pastoral  habit  holding  a  book  in  his  right  hand  and 
a  pastoral  staff  in  his  left.  The  motto  is  Sic  Hut  ad 
astra. 

The  new  parish  church  which  stands  in  the  centre  of 
High  Street  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  structures  in  the 
north  of  Scotland.  It  was  erected  in  182S  at  a  cost  of 
nearly  £10,000.  The  length,  including  walls,  is  96  feet, 
the  breadth  60J,  and  the  height  from  floor  to  ceiling  is 
31  feet.  It  has  at  the  W  end  a  spacious  portico,  com- 
posed of  six  massive  Doric  fluted  columns,  surmounted 
by  a  pediment.  At  the  E  end  is  a  tower,  with  clock  and 
bells.  The  lower  part  of  the  tower  is  square,  the  upper 
circular,  with  six  fine  Corinthian  pillars,  with  a  slightly 
dome-shaped  roof,   and  a  fiuial.      The  whole  rises  to 


ELGIN 

a  height  of  112  feet ;  and  the  upper  part  is  a  copy  of 
the  Choragic  monument  of  Lysicrates.  There  is  sitting 
accommodation  for  about  2000.  There  are  two  Free 
churches,  two  United  Presbyterian  churches,  an  Epis- 
copal church,  a  Roman  Catholic  church,  a  Congrega- 
tional church,  a  Baptist  chapel,  and  a  building  in  the 
occupation  of  the  Plymouth  Brethren.  Each  of  the  Free 
churches  has  a  mission  hall  or  children's  church  in  con- 
nection with  it.  The  Assembly  Rooms,  at  the  corner 
of  High  Street  and  North  Street,  were  erected  by  the 
Trinity  Lodge  of  Freemasons  in  1821.  They  contain  a 
large  ball-room  and  supper-room.  There  is  a  public 
subscription  reading-room  on  the  ground -floor.  The  Elgin 
Club  (1863)  has  a  fine  building  in  Commerce  Street,  with 
reading-room,  billiard-room,  and  card-rooms.  Near  the 
'  Little  Cross '  is  the  Museum,  belonging  to  the  Elgin 
Literary  and  Scientific  Association.  It  contains  a  number 
of  interesting  and  curious  objects,  and  among  the  fossils 
from  the  rocks  of  the  neighbom'hood  are  some  specimens 
so  rare  that  they  are  to  be  seen  nowhere  else.  The  Elgin 
Institution,  at  the  E  end  of  the  town,  was  erected  and 
endowed  in  1832,  from  funds,  amounting  to  £70,000, 
bequeathed  for  the  maintenance  of  aged  men  and  women, 
and  the  maintenance  and  education  of  poor  or  orphan 
boys  or  girls,  by  Lieut. -General  Andrew  Anderson  (1746- 
1S24),  who  was  cradled  in  the  stone  basin  in  the  lavatory 
of  the  cathecb'al,  and  who  rosefrom  the  position  of  a  private 
soldier  to  the  rank  of  Major-General  in  the  Honourable 
East  India  Company's  service.  The  style  of  the  building 
is  Grecian,  and  there  is  a  central  circular  bell-tower  and 
dome.  Over  the  principal  entrance  to  the  N  is  a  sculp- 
tured group,  representing  the  founder,  with  one  hand  be- 
stowing bread  on  an  aged  woman,  and  with  the  other  hold- 
ing a  book  before  a  boy  and  girl.  There  is  accommodation 
provided  for  50  children  anii  10  aged  persons.  The  man- 
agement is  carried  on  by  a  house  governor,  a  female  teacher, 
and  a  matron.  On  leaving  the  institution  at  the  age  of 
fom-teen,  the  boys  are  apprenticed  to  any  trade  or  occupa- 
tion they  may  desire,  and  during  their  apprenticeship 
have  a  yearly  allowance.  Attached  to  the  institution  is  a 
free  school  for  the  education  of  children  whose  parents, 
though  in  narrow  circumstances,  are  still  able  to  maintain 
and  clothe  them.  Standing  at  the  opposite  end  of  the 
town,  Gray's  Hospital  is  another  memorial  of  the  munifi- 
cence  of  Elgin's  sons.  It  was  built  and  endowed  from 
a  fund  of  £26,000,  left  by  Dr  Alexander  Gray  (1751- 
1808),  a  native  of  Elgin,  who  had  acquired  a  large  fortune 
while  in  the  service  of  the  East  India  Company.  The 
hospital  is  intended  for  the  relief  of  the  sick  poor  of  the 
town  and  county  of  Elgin.  The  building  is  a  handsome 
erection,  in  the  Grecian  style,  with  a  projecting  portico 
of  Doric  columns  on  the  eastern  front,  and  a  central 
dome  which  is  seen  for  a  long  distance  round.  It  forms 
a  fine  termination  for  High  Street  on  the  W.  There  is 
a  resident  physician,  and  two  of  the  doctors  in  town  visit 
the  building  daily.  Immediately  to  the  W  of  the  hos- 
pital is  the  Elgin  District  Lunatic  Asylum.  It  was 
originally  built  by  voluntary  assessment  in  1834,  but 
was  greatly  enlarged  and  improved  in  1865,  when  it 
passed  into  the  charge  of  the  Lunacy  Board.  The  Bm'gh 
Com-t-House  (1841)  and  County  Buildings  (1866)  stand 
on  the  S  side  of  High  Street  a  short  distance  W  from  the 
Little  Cross.  Both  buildings  are  Italian  in  style,  the 
former  being  very  plain,  while  the  latter  has  rusticated 
work  along  the  lower  part.  The  centre  projects,  and  has 
eight  Ionic  columns,  with  frieze  and  cornice.  The  court- 
room is  30  feet  by  40.  There  are  offices  for  the  procurator- 
fiscal,  the  county-clerk,  the  town-clerk,  and  the  sheriff- 
clerk,  as  well  as  a  room  for  Council  meetings.  There  are 
two  woollen  manufactories  close  to  the  town — one  at  the 
E  end — Newmill,  and  the  other  in  Bishopmill.  The  chief 
textures  made  are  plaids,  tweeds,  kerseys,  and  double- 
cloths.  There  is  a  brewery  immediately  to  the  E  of  the 
cathedral.  There  is  a  flour-mill  atlKingsmills  close  by, 
and  also  a  saw-mill ;  and  there  is  a  large  saw-mill  further 
to  the  S,  near  the  Morayshire  railway  station.  There 
are  large  nurseries  at  both  ends  of  the  town  ;  and  there 
is  also  a  tan-work  near  the  Lossie,  on  the  N  side.  There 
is  a  gas  supply  and  a  water  supply  by  gravitation,  both. 

563 


ELGIN 

now  under  the  charge  of  the  corporation.  There  is  a 
market  company,  established  in  1850,  with  buildings 
comprising  a  fish,  beef,  and  vegetable  market,  a  corn 
market  hall,  and  a  concert  hall,  which  is  let  for  concerts, 
lectures,  and  theatrical  entertainments.  There  are  a  branch 
of  the  Bible  Society,  a  literary  and  scientific  association, 
two  mason  lodges,  several  cricket  clubs,  a  curling  club, 
a  bowling  club  owning  a  fine  bowling  green,  a  boating 
club,  a  football  club,  and  a  horticultural  society.  There 
are  six  incorporated  trades  —  the  hammermen,  the 
glovers,  the  tailors,  the  shoemakers,  the  weavers,  and 
the  square-wriglits.  Besides  the  Bied-House  or  Alms 
House  already  mentioned,  there  are  a  number  of  other 
charitable  funds  and  mortifications.  The  Guildry  divides 
an  income  of  upwards  of  £400  a  year  for  the  benefit  of 
decayed  brethren,  and  of  the  widows  and  children  of 
deceased  members.  The  Guildry  Society  also  manage 
the  Braco  and  Laing's  Mortifications.  There  is  a  chari- 
table fund  connected  with  the  Incorporated  Trades. 
There  are  a  number  of  these  trusts  under  the  kirk-ses- 
sion, the  chief  being  Petrie's  ;  and  a  number  under  the 
management  of  the  corporation,  the  chief  being  the 
Auchry  Mortification.  The  Academy  stands  in  Academy 
Street,  near  the  centre  of  the  to'mi.  There  is  a  '  general 
school, '  mentioned  in  the  Eegistrum  Moraviense  as  early 
as  1489  ;  and  this  was  no  doubt  the  same  as  the  gi-ammar 
school  which  we  find  mentioned  in  1535,  and  which  was 
then  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  magistrates.  In  1594 
part  of  the  funds  arising  from  liaison  Dieic  were  granted 
by  the  Crown  for  the  support  of  a  master  to  teach  music, 
and  a  'sang  school'  was  established.  The  old  grammar 
school  stood  near  the  top  of  Commerce  Street,  which  was 
long  known  as  the  School  Wynd.  The  schools  were 
united  when  the  present  buildings  were  erected  in  1800. 
The  Academj'  was  one  of  the  eleven  high-class  schools 
scheduled  in  the  Education  Act  of  1872,  and  then  passed 
from  the  management  of  the  Town  Council  to  that  of 
the  School-Board.  There  are  four  masters  for  respec- 
tively, classics,  mathematics,  English,  and  modern 
languages.  Bishopmill  public,  Elgin  girls'  public.  West 
End  public,  Auderston's  Free,  and  a  Roman  Catholic 
school,  with  respective  accommodation  for  178,  415,  200, 
255,  and  140  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance 
of  123,  298,  195,  195,  and  77,  and  grants  of  £106,  4s.  6d., 
£252,  13s.,  £196,  3s.  6d.,  £170,  9s.,  and  £58,  19s.  6d. 
There  is  also  a  private  day  school  for  boys  and  girls ;  and 
three  ladies'  boarding  and  day  schools  are  well  attended. 

Elgin  has  a  head  post  office,  with  money  order,  savings' 
bank,  insurance,  and  telegraph  departments,  branches  of 
the  Bank  of  Scotland  and  the  British  Linen  Co.,  Cale- 
donian, Commercial,  North  of  Scotland,  Royal,  and  Union 
Banks,  a  National  Securities  Savings'  Bank,  oflices  or 
agencies  of  48  insurance  companies,  5  hotels,  and  1  news- 
paper— The  Elgin  Courant  and  Courier  (1827),  published 
every  Tuesday  and  Friday.  The  chief  courts  for  the 
county  are  held  at  Elgin.  A  weekly  market  is  held  on 
Friday.  Cattle  markets  are  held  fortnightlj'  on  the  second 
and  last  Friday  of  every  month.  Feeing  markets  are  held 
on  the  last  Friday  of  March  for  married  farm  servants, 
on  the  Friday  before  26  May,  on  the  last  Friday  of  July 
for  harvest  hands,  and  the  Friday  before  22  November. 
There  is  a  considerable  trade  in  grain.  Coaches  run 
on  Tuesday  and  Friday  to  Garmouth  and  Kingston-on- 
Spey. 

Elgin  unites  with  Banff  and  Macduff,  Cullen,  Inverurie, 
Kintore,  and  Peterhead  to  form  the  Elgin  Burghs,  which 
district  returns  one  member  to  Parliament  (always  a 
Liberal  since  1837).  The  Corporation  consists  of  a  pro- 
vost, i  bailies,  and  12  councillors.  The  revenue  of  the 
burgh  was  £715  in  1832,  £835  in  1860,  £803  in  1870, 
and  £762  in  1881.  Under  the  Lindsay  Act,  the  Town 
Council  act  as  Police  Commissioners,  and  under  a 
special  Road  Act  for  the  county  and  burgh,  they  act  as 
Road  Trustees  for  the  burgh.  The  police  force  is  separate 
from  the  county,  and  consists  of  a  superintendent,  a 
sergeant,  and  4  constables.  The  municipal  constitu- 
ency was  272  in  1854,  750  in  1875,  and  921  in  1882 ; 
while  the  parliamentary  constituency  was  756  in  1875, 
and  930  in  1882.  Annual  value  of  real  property 
661 


ELGINSHIRE 

(1815)  £2435,  (1845) £9031,  17s.,  (1872)  £22,433,  (1831) 
£30,297,  18s.  6d.,  plus  £781  for  railways.  Pop.  of 
the  royal  hurgh  (1831)  4493,  (1861)  6403,  (1871)  6241, 
(1881)  6286  ;  of  the  parliamentary  burgh  (1861)  7543, 
(1871)  7340,  (1881)  7413,  of  whom  3257  were  males  and 
4156  females.  Houses  (1881)  1396  inhabited,  44  vacant, 
25  building. 

See  Shaw's  History  of  the  Province  of  Moray  (Edinb. 
1775;  new  ed.,  Elgin,  1827;  3d  ed.,  Glasgow,  1882);. 
Young's  Annals  of  Elgin  (Elgin,  1879) ;  Sinclair's  Elgin 
(Lond.  1866);  Tajlo-c's  Edvjard  I.  in  the  North  of  Scot- 
land (Elgin,  1858) ;  Watson's  Morayshire  Described 
(Elgin,  1868) ;  and  the  Registriim  Episcopatus  Moravi- 
ensis  (edited  for  the  Bannatyne  Club  by  Cosmo  Innes,- 
Edinb.  1837). 

Elgin,  New,  a  village,  with  a  public  school,  in  Elgin 
parish,  just  beyond  the  municipal  boundary  of  the  city, 
3  furlongs  S  by  E  of  the  station.  Pop.  (1861)  520,  (1871) 
559,  (1881)  625. 

Elginshire  or  Moray,  a  maritime  county  on  the 
southern  shore  of  the  Moray  Firth,  forming  the  central 
division  of  the  old  Province  of  Moray.  It  used  formerly 
to  consist  of  two  separate  tliough  not  widely  detached 
parts,  a  portion  of  Inverness-shire  having,  by  one  of 
those  zig-zag  arrangements  that  may  be  traced  back  to 
the  days  of  feudal  jurisdiction,  got  between  the  two 
portions.  In  1870,  however,  by  '  The  Inverness  and 
Elgin  Coimty  Boundaries  Act,'  a  part  of  the  united 
parishes  of  Cromdale  and  Inverallan,  including  the  vil- 
lage of  Grantown,  was  transferred  from  Inverness  to 
Elgin,  and  portions  of  the  parishes  of  Abernethy  and 
Duthil  from  Elgin  to  Inverness.  The  population  of  the 
former  district  was  (1861)  3377  ;  and  of  the  latter  in  the 
same  year  2750,  so  that  Elginshire  gained  somewhat  in 
population  by  the  change.  The  new  arrangement  has 
proved  in  many  ways  advantageous,  and  has  rendered 
the  county  more  compact.  Elginshire  is  bounded  on 
the  N  by  the  Moray  Firth,  on  the  E  and  SE  by  Banff- 
shire, on  the  S  and  SW  by  Inverness-shire,  and  on  the 
W  by  Nairnshire ;  and  on  the  centre  of  the  western 
border  it  surrounds  two  small  detached  portions  of  the 
latter  county.  Its  gi-eatest  length  from  NE  to  SW, 
from  Lossiemouth  to  Dulnan  Bridge  in  Strathspey,  is 
34  miles  ;  its  greatest  breadth  from  E  to  W,  from 
Bridge  of  Haughs  near  Keith  to  Macbeth's  HOlock 
on  the  Hardmuir  to  the  W  of  Forres,  is  29J  miles. 
The  coast -line  along  the  shore  at  high -water  mark 
measures  30  miles,  and  a  straight  line  from  the  mouth 
of  the  Spey  on  the  E  to  the  sea  near  Maviston  sand- 
hills on  the  W  measures  26  mUes.  The  total  area, 
according  to  the  Ordnance  Survey,  and  inclusive  of 
inland  waters  and  foreshores,  is  312,378 '810  acres. 
Roughly  speaking,  the  county  forms  a  sort  of  triangle, 
with  a  sharp  apex  to  the  NW,  and  somewhat  blunt 
corners  to  the  S  and  NE,  and  in  this  triangle  the 
northern  'and  western  sides  measure  25  miles,  and  the 
south-eastern  side  somewhat  more — all  the  measure- 
ments being  in  straight  lines.  Over  25  miles  of  the 
accurate  boundary  on  the"E  is  traced  by  the  river  Spey, 
and  over  24  on  the  W  by  the  watershed  along  the  north- 
eastern prolongation  of  the  Monadhliath  Mountains ; 
but  everywhere  else,  except  along  the  Moray  Firth,  the 
boundary  is  purely  artificial.  Starting  from  the  NE 
comer  the  boundary-line  follows  the  principal  channel 
of  the  Spey  for  the  time  being  for  about  2  miles,  and 
then  strikes  south-eastward  through  Gordon  Castle — 
part  of  which  is  in  Elginshire  and  part  in  Banffshire — 
till  it  reaches  Bridge  of  Haughs  about  |  mUe  to  the  W 
of  Keith.  It  then  skirts  the  S  side  of  the  Highland 
railway  to  near  Mulben  station,  where  it  turns  abruptly 
away  to  the  S,  and  takes  in  a  part  of  the  long  slope 
of  Ben  Aigan.  Returning  to  the  Highland  raCway,  it 
skirts  the  N  side  of  the  line  as  far  as  the  bridge  over 
the  Spey.  From  this  point  it  follows  the  course  of 
the  Spey  for  many  mUes  up  as  far  as  Inveraven  church, 
when  it  leaves  the  river,  and  takes  in  a  part  of  Inveraven 
parish,  measuring  about  2J  mQes  by  1  mile,  passes  back 
along  the  river  Aven,  and  again  up  the  Spey  for  a  mile. 
It  then  strikes  to  the  SW  along  the  watershed  of  the 


ELGINSHIRE 

Cromdale  Hills,  but  returns  to  the  Spey  about  2  miles 
■due  E  of  Grantown,  and  keeps  to  the  river  as  far  as 
Dulnan  Bridge.  It  then  turns  up  the  Dulnan  for 
about  a  mile,  and  from  that  point  proceeds  in  a  direction 
more  or  less  northerly  (not  taking  minor  irregularities 
into  account),  until  it  reaches  the  Moray  Firth  about  5 
miles  W  of  the  mouth  of  the  river  Findhorn.  The 
lower  part  of  the  county  is  flat,  and  remarkable  for  its 
amenity  of  climate,  high  cultivation,  and  beauty  of 
landscape,  in  which  respects  it  holds  the  highest  position 
in  the  northern  lowlands.  The  only  exception  is  a  part 
between  the  mouth  of  the  Findhorn  and  the  western 
boundary,  which  is  covered  by  a  mass  of  sand  constantly 
in  motion  in  the  slightest  breeze  of  wind,  and  known  as 
the  Cidbin  Sands.  Culbin  was  at  one  time  almost  the 
richest  and  most  fertile  part  of  the  county,  but  now 
some  3600  acres  are  little  better  than  an  arid  waste. 
In  1693  the  rental  was  worth  what  might  be  represented 
by  £6000  of  our  present  money,  but  in  1694  or  1695 
sand  began  to  blow  in  from  the  shore,  and  rapidly 
overwhelmed  the  whole  district.  From  the  Findhorn 
eastward  to  Burghead,  the  tract  along  the  coast  is  also 
barren  and  sandy,  and  from  Lossiemouth  eastward  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Spey  there  are  a  series  of  great  gravel 
ridges  formed  from  the  boulders  brought  down  by  the 
Spey,  which  have  been  in  the  course  of  ages  carried 
westward  by  the  inshore  cm-rent,  and  thrown  up  by  the 
sea.  The  district  adjoining  the  coast  along  the  parishes 
•of  Urquhart,  St  Andrews-Lhanbryd,  Drainie,  Duifus, 
Spjmie,  Alves,  Kinloss  and  Dyke,  and  Moy  is  rich  and 
fertile  with  hea^'y  loam  and  strong  clay  soils,  and  is  so 
flat  that  it  might  be  mistaken  for  a  portion  of  England 
set  down  there  by  accident.  High  wooded  ridges  run- 
ning through  Alves,  Elgin,  and  St  Andi'ews-Lhanhryd 
separate  this  from  another  flat  district,  not,  however,  of 
so  great  extent  as  the  last,  nor  so  level,  extending 
through  Speymouth,  Elgin,  and  Forres,  and  sweeping 
up  to  the  S  to  the  beginning  of  the  hill  country,  which 
occupies  the  S  part  of  the  county,  where  the  land  is 
mostly  covered  mth  heather  and  given  over  to  gTouse 
and  the  red  deer,  and  where  cultivation,  when  carried 
on  at  all,  is  under  much  harder  conditions  of  soil  and 
climate  than  in  the  rich  and  fertile  '  Laigh  of  Moray.' 
There  are,  however,  along  the  courses  of  all  the  streams 
numerous,  though  small,  flats  or  haughs  of  great  fer- 
tility. The  SOU  of  the  arable  lands  of  the  county  may 
be  classified  under  the  general  names  of  sand,  clay, 
loam,  and  reclaimed  moss.  Sand,  or  a  light  soil  in 
which  sand  predominates,  extends,  with  inconsiderable 
■exceptions,  over  the  eastern  half  of  the  lowlands,  or 
most  of  Speymouth,  Urc^uhart,  St  Andrews-Lhanbryd, 
and  Drainie,  the  eastern  part  of  Spynie,  part  of  Elgin, 
and  the  lower  lands  of  Birnie  and  Dallas.  A  clay  soil 
prevails  throughout  Dufi'us  and  Alves,  part  of  Spynie, 
and  small  strips  in  the  sandy  district.  A  loamy  soil 
covers  extensive  tracts  in  Duffus,  Alves,  and  Spj'nie, 
■and  nearly  the  whole  of  Kinloss,  Forres,  Dyke,  the 
lower  lands  of  RaSord  and  Edenkillie,  and  the  alluvial 
grounds  of  the  highland  straths.  A  clay  loam  covers  a 
considerable  part  of  Knockando.  Moss,  worked  into  a 
condition  of  tillage,  occurs  to  a  considerable  extent  in 
Knockando,  and  in  strips  in  the  flat  districts  in  the  low 
situatious.  It  is  superincumbent  on  sand,  and  is  so 
peculiar  in  quality  as  to  emit,  on  a  hot  day,  a  sulphureous 
smell,  and  to  strongly  aifect  the  colour  and  formation  of 
of  rising  grain  :  it  occurs  also  on  the  flats  and  slopes  of 
the  lower  hUls  of  the  uplands,  peaty  in  quality,  but 
corrected  by  the  admi.xture  of  sand.  The  far  extending 
upland  regions  are  prevailing  moss  and  heath. 

Though  the  low  district  has  a  northern  exposure,  the 
■climate  is  so  mUd  that  the  hardier  kinds  of  fruit — all 
the  varieties  of  the  apple,  and  most  of  the  varieties  of 
the  pear  and  the  plum — may,  with  very  little  attention, 
be  grown  abundantly ;  and  fruits  of  greater  delicacy — 
the  apricot,  the  nectarine,  and  the  peach — ripen  suffi- 
ciently on  a  wall  in  the  open  air.  The  wind  blows  from 
some  point  near  the  'W  during  about  260  days  in  the 
j'ear,  and  in  summer  it  is  for  the  most  part  a  gentle 
breeze,  coming  oftener  from  the  S  than  from  the  N  side 


ELGINSHIRE 

of  the  W.  TVinds  from  the  NW  or  K  generally  bring 
the  heaviest  and  longest  rains.  The  district  has  no 
hills  sufficiently  elevated  to  attract  the  clouds  while 
they  sail  from  the  mass  of  mountains  in  the  S  towards 
the  heights  of  Sutherland.  The  winter  is  singularly 
mild,  and  snow  lies  generally  for  only  a  very  biief 
period.  In  the  upland  districts  rain  falls  to  the  amount 
of  5  or  6  inches  more  than  the  mean  depth  in  the  low 
country,  and  there  the  seasons  are  often  boisterous  and 
severe,  and  unpropitious  weather  delays  and,  by  no 
means  seldom  altogether,  defies  the  elTorts  of  the  former. 

Rather  more  than  half  the  county  is  drained  by 
the  Spey  and  its  tributaries.  Of  the  latter  the  most 
important  are  the  Aven  and  the  Dulnan,  neither  of 
which  have,  however,  more  than  a  very  small  portion 
of  their  course  within  the  county.  The  middle  part  of 
the  county  is  drained  by  the  river  Lossie.  It  rises  near 
the  centre  of  the  upper  part  of  the  shire,  and  has  a  very 
sinuous  course  in  a  general  north-easterly  direction,  till 
it  enters  the  sea  at  Lossiemouth.  Its  principal  tribu- 
taries are  the  Lochty  or  Black  Burn,  the  Burn  of  Glen 
Latterich,  and  the  Burn  of  Shogle.  Tlie  western  part 
is  di-ained  by  the  Findhorn  and  its  tributaries.  The 
whole  course  of  the  Findhorn  is  very  beautiful  and 
picturesque,  till  it  expands,  near  the  mouth,  into  the 
open  sheet  of  Findhorn  Loch  or  Findhorn  Bay.  There 
is  at  the  mouth,  between  the  village  of  Findhorn  and 
the  Culbin  Sands,  a  dangerous  and  much-dreaded  bar. 
The  principal  tributaries  are  the  Divie  and  the  Dorbock. 
The  latter  issues  from  Lochindorb,  and  flows  parallel 
to  the  western  boundary  of  the  county,  at  a  distance  of 
about  a  mile,  along  a  course  of  about  10  miles,  wdien, 
after  uniting  with  the  Divie,  the  streams  fall  into  the 
Findhorn  near  Eelugas.  The  prmcipal  lochs  are — Loch- 
indorb, which  lies  among  the  mountains,  near  the 
point  where  Elgin,  Nairn,  and  Inverness  unite.  It  is 
2J  miles  long  and  5  furlongs  broad  at  the  widest 
part.  The  Loch  of  Spynie,  now  only  5  furlongs  long 
by  14  furlong  wide,  was  formerly  an  extensive  lake 
3  miles  long  and  f  mile  wide,  but  by  the  drainage 
operations  carried  on  from  time  to  time  between  1779 
and  1860,  the  whole  of  the  loch  was  drained  except- 
ing a  mere  pool  a  little  to  the  W  of  the  old  Castle 
of  Spynie.  The  present  sheet  of  water  has  been  re- 
formed by  the  proprietor  of  Pitgaveny.  Loch-na-Bo 
{i  X  14  furl.)  lies  1  mile  to  the  SE  of  the  village  of 
Lhanbryd.  It  contains  a  large  number  of  excellent 
trout.  The  banks  are  prettil}'  wooded,  though  up  to 
1773  the  surrounding  tract  was  merelj'  a  barren  heathy 
moor.  There  are  a  number  of  chalj'beate  springs  in  the 
county,  but  none  of  them  are  at  all  distinguished  for 
their  medicinal  properties.  The  surface  of  the  county 
rises  gi'adually  from  N  to  S,  the  ridges  getting  higher 
and  higher  till  between  Creag-an-Tarmachan  and  the 
Cromdale  Hills,  a  height  of  2328  feet  is  attained.  The 
principal  elevations  going  from  E  to  "W  and  from  N  to 
S  are  Findlay  Seat  (life  feet),  Eildon  or  Heldun  Hill 
(767),  HUl  of  the  Wangle  (1020),  Knock  of  Braemory 
(1493),  James  Roy's  Cairn  (1691),  Cairn-an-Loin  (1797), 
Craig  Tiribeg  (1586),  Carn  Sgriob  (1590),  Creag-an-Eigh 
(1568). 

Geology. — The  geology  of  the  Morayshire  plain  has 
given  rise  to  considerable  controversy.  For  a  time 
indeed,  the  age  of  the  reptiliferous  sandstones  N  of  the 
town  of  Elgin  was  one  of  the  most  keenly  disputed 
points  in  Scottish  geology.  They  had  been  classed  for 
many  years  with  the  Old  Red  Sandstone  formation  ;  but 
when  Professor  Huxley  announced  in  1858  that  the 
Elgin  reptiles  had  marked  affinities  with  certain  Tiiassic 
forms,  geologists  began  to  waver  in  this  belief.  The 
subsequent  discovery  of  the  remains  ot  Ht/perodapcdon — 
a  tjqjical  Elgin  reptile — in  beds  of  undoubted  Triassic 
age,  in  England  and  in  India,  caused  some  of  the  keenest 
supporters  of  the  old  classification  to  abandon  it  alto- 
gether. It  must  be  admitted,  however,  that  the  strati- 
graphical  evidence  is  far  from  being  satisfactory,  owing 
to  the  great  accumulation  of  glacial  and  post-glacial 
deposits. 

The  oldest  rocks  in  the  county  belong  to  the  great 

E65 


ELGINSHIEE 

crystalline  series  composing  the  central  Highlands,  of 
which  excellent  sections  are  exposed  in  the  Fiudhorn 
between  Coulmony  and  the  Sluie,  in  the  Divie,  the 
higher  reaches  of  the  Lossie,  and  in  the  streams  draining 
the  western  slopes  of  the  valley  of  the  Spey.  They 
consist  mainly  of  alternations  of  grey  micaceous  gneiss, 
quartzites,  and  mica  schists,  the  prevalent  type  being 
gneissose  ;  and  with  these  are  associated,  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Grantown,  an  important  bed  of  crystalline 
limestone.  In  the  Findhorn  basin  they  form  a  well- 
marked  syncline,  extending  in  a  SE  direction  from  the 
bridge  of  Daltulieh  to  the  junction  of  the  Dorbock  with 
the  Divie.  This  trend,  however,  is  quite  exceptional, 
for  when  we  pass  eastwards  to  the  valleys  of  the  Lossie 
and  the  Spey,  they  assume  their  normal  NE  and  SW 
strike.  As  the  prevalent  dip  of  the  strata  is  towards 
the  SE,  it  is  evident  that  there  is  a  gradually  ascending 
series  in  that  direction.  In  the  valley  of  the  Spey  they 
plunge  underneath  the  quartzites,  which  are  so  well 
displayed  at  Boat  of  Bridge,  on  the  slopes  of  Ben  Aigan, 
and  at  Craigellachie ;  and  these  are  overlaid  by  the 
grand  series  of  schists  containing  actinolite,  andaliisite, 
and  staurolite  that  cover  wide  areas  in  Banffshire. 

The  Old  Red  Sandstone  strata,  which  come  next  in 
order,  rest  on  a  highly  eroded  platform  of  these  crystal- 
line rocks.  From  the  manner  in  which  they  wind  round 
the  slopes  of  the  hills  formed  by  the  metamorphic  series, 
sweeping  up  the  valleys  and  filling  ancient  hollows,  it 
is  evident  that  the  old  land  surface  must  have  under- 
gone considerable  denudation  prior  to  Old  Red  Sandstone 
times.  Within  the  limits  of  the  county  there  are  repre- 
sentatives both  of  the  upper  and  lower  divisions  of  this 
formation,  which  differ  widely  in  lithological  character 
and  organic  contents.  The  members  of  the  lower  divi- 
sion are  displayed  on  the  banks  of  the  Spey  ISf  of  Boat 
of  Bridge.  At  the  base  there  is  a  coarse  breeeiated  con- 
glomerate, which,  though  it  attains  a  thickness  of  about 
600  feet  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  thins  away  to 
a  few  feet  when  traced  to  the  N.  This  massive  con- 
glomerate is  overlaid  by  red  sandstones,  shales,  and 
clays  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Dipple,  and  from  the 
limestone  nodules  embedded  in  the  shales  numerous 
ichthyolites  have  been  obtained.  This  fossiliferous 
band,  commonly  known  as  the  fish-bed,  forms  an  im- 
portant horizon  in  the  Lower  Old  Red  Sandstone  of  the 
Moray  Firth  basin.  There  can  be  little  doubt  that  the 
outcrop  at  Dipple  is  on  the  same  horizon  as  the  well- 
known  bed  in  the  Tynet  Burn,  about  3  miles  to  the 
NE,  which  is  one  of  the  most  celebrated  localities  in 
the  North  of  Scotland  for  well-preserved  ichthyolites. 
Amongst  the  species  obtained  from  these  localities  are 
the  following : — Cheiracanthits  Miirchisoni,  Diplacanthus 
striatus,  Ostcolepis  major,  and  Glyptolepis  leptopterus. 
Like  the  succession  in  TjTiet  Burn,  the  Dipple  fish-bed 
is  overlaid  by  coarse  conglomerate  passing  upwards  into 
red  pebbly  sandstones,  which  are  well  seen  at  the  bridge 
of  Fochabers.  The  sandstones  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Spey,  above  the  fish-bed  have  yielded  some  large  speci- 
mens, which  are  probably  fragments  oi  Pterygotus.  This 
fossil,  which  is  characteristic  of  the  Upper  Silurian  and 
Lower  Old  Red  Sandstone  formations,  has  been  found  in 
the  flagstones  of  Forfarshire,  Caithness,  and  Orkney. 
N  of  the  bridge  of  Fochabers  the  succession  in  the  Spey 
is  obscured  by  alluvial  deposits  ;  but  in  the  Tynet  and 
Gollachie  sections  there  is  an  ascending  series  to  certain 
contemporaneous  volcanic  rocks,  which  are  of  special 
importance,  inasmuch  as  they  are  the  only  relics  of 
volcanic  activity  during  this  period  in  the  Moray  Firth 
basin.  From  the  persistent  NNW  inclination  of  the 
strata  in  the  Spey  and  Tynet  sections,  we  would  natu- 
rally expect  to  find  the  members  of  the  lower  division 
extending  westwards  across  the  Morayshire  plain.  But 
with  the  exception  of  the  great  conglomerate  filling  the 
ancient  hollow  of  the  vale  of  Rothes,  which  may  justly 
be  regarded  as  the  equivalent  of  the  conglomerate  in 
the  Spey,  there  is  no  trace  of  the  members  of  the  lower 
division  till  we  pass  westwards  to  Lethen  Bar  in  Nairn- 
shire. They  are  overlapped  by  the  Upper  Old  Red 
Sandstone  strata,  which  sweep  up  the  valleys  of  the 
566 


ELGINSHIEE 

Lossie  and  the  Findhorn  till  they  rest  directly  on  the 
metamorphic  rocks.  In  other  words,  there  is  in  this- 
area  a  marked  unconformity  between  the  upper  and 
lower  divisions,  which  is  equally  apparent  in  the  count}' 
of  Nairn.  The  boundary  line  of  the  upper  division 
extends  from  Glensheil  on  the  Muckle  Burn,  eastwards 
by  Sluie  on  the  Findhorn,  thence  curving  northwards 
round  the  slope  of  the  Monaughty  Hill,  and  winding  up 
the  Black  Burn  as  far  as  Pluscarden  Abbey.  From  this 
point  it  may  be  traced  eastwards  across  the  Lossie  to 
Scaat  Craig  at  the  mouth  of  the  Glen  of  Rothes.  In 
the  neighbourhood  of  Dallas  there  is  a  small  outlier  of 
thick-bedded  sandstones,  which,  in  virtue  of  the  fish 
scales  embedded  in  them,  must  be  grouped  with  the 
upper  division. 

Lithologically  the  Upper  Old  Red  strata  are  very 
different  from  the  older  series.  The  dominant  feature 
of  the  division  is  the  occurrence  of  massive  grey  and 
yellow  sandstones,  full  of  false  bedding,  with  occasional 
layers  of  conglomerate.  By  far  the  finest  section  of 
these  strata  is  exposed  on  the  Findhorn,  between  Sluie 
and  Cothall,  where  the  river  has  cut  a  deep  gorge 
through  them,  exposing  magnificent  cliffs  of  the  mas- 
sive sandstones.  They  are  inclined  to  the  NNW,  at 
angles  varying  from  5°  to  10°,  and  in  the  course  of 
this  section  upwards  of  1000  feet  of  strata  are  exposed. 
At  Cothall  they  pass  underneath  a  remarkable  bed  of 
cornstone,  containing  calcite,  arragonite,  iron  pyrites, 
and  chalcedony,  which  is  overlaid  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  river  by  red  marls.  By  means  of  small  faults,  which 
are  well  seen  on  the  left  bank,  the  cornstone  is  repeated 
towards  the  N.  To  the  S  of  Elgin  the  members  of  this 
series  are  exposed  on  the  Lossie  and  at  Scaat  Craig 
where  they  have  a  similar  inclination ;  but,  owing  to 
the  covering  of  superficial  deposits,  no  continuous  sec- 
tion is  visible.  At  Glasgreen,  near  New  Elgin,  there  is 
a  band  of  cornstone  closely  resembling  that  at  Cothall 
and  apparently  occupying  the  same  horizon,  which  can 
be  traced  at  intervals  in  a  NE  direction  to  the  Boar's 
Head  rock  on  the  sea-coast.  Again,  to  the  N  of  Elgin,  the 
j'ounger  series  extends  along  the  ridge  from  Bishopmill 
to  Alves.  They  are  admirably  displayed  in  the  quarries 
at  the  former  locality,  where  they  have  been  extensively 
worked  for  building  purposes.  The  fossils  obtained  from 
the  Upper  Old  Red  strata  consist  of  fish  scales,  bones, 
and  teeth,  and,  though  by  no  means  plentiful,  they  have 
been  found  at  various  localities.  They  occur  in  the 
Whitemyre  quarry  on  the  Muckle  Burn,  in  the  Fiud- 
horn cliffs,  at  Alves,  in  the  Bishopmill  and  Dallas 
quarries,  and  again  at  Scaat  Craig.  The  last  of  these 
is  most  widely  known.  Here  they  are  embedded  in  a 
conglomeratic  matrix,  and  show  signs  of  having  been 
subjected  to  aqueous  action.  The  characteristic  fossUs 
of  the  upper  division  are  Holopitychius  nohilissimiis, 
Deiidroclus  latus,  D.  strigatus,  and  PtericJdhys  major. 

In  the  tract  of  gi'ound  lying  to  the  N  of  the  Quarry 
Wood  ridge,  the  strata  are  met  with  which  have  given 
rise  to  so  much  controversy.  They  consist  of  pale  grey 
and  yellow  sandstones  in  which  the  reptilian  remains  have 
been  found,  and  with  these  is  associated  a  cherty  and 
calcareous  band,  commonly  known  as  '  the  cherty  rock 
of  Stotfield. '  This  term  was  first  applied  to  it  by  the 
Rev.  George  Gordon,  LL.D.,  of  Birnie,  to  whose  valu- 
able researches,  extending  over  half  a  century,  geologists 
are  specially  indebted  for  the  information  they  possess 
regarding  this  district.  Along  mth  the  calcareous  por- 
tion of  the  Stotfield  rook  there  are  nodular  masses  of 
flint,  and  throughout  the  matrix,  crystals  of  galena, 
iron  pyrites,  anil  blende  are  disseminated.  Attempts 
have  recently  been  made  to  work  the  galena  at  this 
locality,  which  have  not  been  attended  with  success. 
This  rock  is  also  exposed  at  Inverngie  and  to  the  S 
of  Loch  Spynie,  where,  as  at  Stotfield,  it  rests  on  the 
reptiliferous  sandstones.  The  latter  are  visible  at  Spynie, 
in  the  Findrassie  quarry,  and  on  the  N  slope  of  the 
Quarry  Wood.  They  also  extend  along  the  ridge  be- 
tween Burghead  and  Lossiemouth,  being  admirably  dis- 
played on  the  sea-cliffs  between  these  localities.  In  this 
interesting  section  one  may  study  to  advantage   the 


ELGINSHIRE 

lithological  characters  of  the  strata.  Indeed  the  false- 
bedded  character  of  the  sandstones  is  so  conspicuous 
that  it  is  no  easy  matter  to  determine  their  true  dip. 

In  endeavouring  to  solve  the  problem  of  the  strati- 
graphical  position  of  the  beds  now  referred  to,  it  is  of 
the  utmost  importance  to  remember  that  the  reptiliferous 
sandstones  are  never  seen  in  contact  with  the  strata,  yield- 
ing Upper  Old  Jicd  Sandstone  fish-remains.  Though  they 
occur  near  to  each  other  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Bishop- 
mUl  and  the  Quarry  Wood,  there  is  no  continuous  section 
showing  their  physical  relations.  Along  the  boundary 
line  at  these  localities,  the  strata  in  both  cases  dip  to 
the  NNW,  and  to  all  appearance  the  angle  of  inclination 
is  much  the  same.  It  is  not  to  be  wondered  at,  therefore, 
that  the  advocates  of  the  old  classification  persistently 
maintained  the  existence  of  a  perfectly  conformable  pas- 
sage between  the  Upper  Old  Bed  beds  and  the  reptili- 
ferous sandstones.  The  two  sets  of  strata  have  many 
points  in  common,  and  were  it  not  for  the  remarkable 
palfEontological  evidence,  they  might  naturally  be  re- 
garded as  members  of  the  same  formation.  The  sugges- 
tion has  been  made  by  Professor  Judd,  whose  contribution 
to  the  literature  of  the  subject  is  by  far  the  most  valu- 
able which  has  recently  appeared,  that  the  reptiliferous 
sandstones  are  thrown  against  the  Upper  Old  Red  beds 
by  powerful  faults.  But  no  trace  of  these  faults  is  to 
be  seen  on  the  surface  along  the  lines  indicated  by  him, 
save  that  on  the  shore  at  Lossiemouth,  which  brings  the 
patch  of  oolitic  strata  against  the  cherty  rock  of  Stot- 
field.  Quite  recently,  however,  Mr  Linn  of  H.M. 
Geological  Survey  has  discovered  fish  scales  of  Upper 
Old  Red  age  in  flagstones,  on  the  raised  beach  W  of 
Stotfield.  These  flagstones  dip  to  the  NNW  at  a  gentle 
angle,  and  it  is  possible  that  they  may  form  part  of  a 
small  ridge  of  Upper  Old  Red  sandstone  protruding 
through  the  younger  strata.  In  that  case  the  reptili- 
ferous sandstones  may  probably  rest  with  a  gentle  un- 
conformity on  the  older  strata. 

The  fossils  which  have  invested  these  beds  with  special 
importance  belong  to  three  species,  viz.  :  Stagonole2ns 
Eoiertsoni,  Telcrpeton  Elgincnse,  and  Hyperodapiedon 
Gordoni.  The  remains  of  these  reptiles  have  been 
found  in  the  sandstones  at  Lossiemouth,  at  Spynie,  and 
in  the  Findrassie  quarry,  while  in  the  Ouramingston 
sandstones  only  footprints  have  been  obtained.  The 
Stagonolcpis,  which,  according  to  recent  discoveries,  must 
have  been  about  18  feet  long,  was  a  crocodile  allied  to  the 
modern  Caiman  in  form.  Its  body  was  protected  by 
dorsal  and  ventral  scutes  ;  and  it  possessed  elongated 
jaws  after  the  manner  of  existing  Gavials.  The  Telcr- 
peton and  Hy^ierodapedon  were  species  of  lizards,  the 
former  measuring  about  10  inches  and  the  latter  about 
6  feet  in  length.  It  is  interesting  to  observe  that  the 
terrestrial  lizard,  Telcrpeton,  differs  but  little  from  exist- 
ing forms,  thus  furnishing  a  remarkable  example  of  a  per- 
sistent tjrpe  of  organisation.  The  Hypierodapedon  bears 
a  close  resemblance  to  the  existing  Sphenodon  of  New 
Zealand.  The  important  discovery  of  the  remains  of 
Eyperodapicdon  in  undoubted  Triassic  strata  in  War- 
wickshire, Devonshire,  and  in  Central  India  ultimately 
led  geologists  to  regard  the  reptiliferous  sandstones  of 
Elgin  as  of  the  same  age.  The  palfeontological  evidence 
from  the  Elgin  sandstones  is  quite  in  keeping  with  this 
conclusion,  for  in  no  single  instance  have  reptilian 
remains  been  found  in  the  same  beds  with  Upper  Old 
Red  fishes,  though  the  strata  have  long  been  extensively 
quarried,  and  though  careful  attention  has  been  paid  to 
any  indications  of  organic  remains.  On  the  whole, 
then,  the  evidence  bearing  on  this  long  disputed  ques- 
tion seems  to  be  in  favour  of  grouping  the  reptiliferous 
sandstones  with  the  Trias. 

On  the  shore  at  Lossiemouth,  to  the  N  of  the  fault 
bounding  the  cherty  rock  of  Stotfield,  a  small  patch  of 
greenish  white  sandstones  occurs,  which,  from  the  series 
of  fossils  obtained  by  Mr  Grant,  must  be  classed  -n-ith 
the  Lower  Oolite. 

Throughout  the  plain  of  Moray  there  is  a  remarkable 
development  of  glacial  and  post-glacial  deposits.  Indeed, 
owing  to  the  great  accumulation  of  these  deposits  the 


ELGINSHIRE 

striD3  left  by  the  ancient  glaciers  are  not  readily  found. 
A  beautiful  example,  however,  occurs  on  the  hill  of 
Alves,  where  the  direction  of  the  markings  is  ESK, 
which  is  in  keeping  with  the  general  trend  over  the 
plain  along  the  S  side  of  the  Moray  Firth.  The  boulder 
clay  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Elgin,  and  in  fact  in  the 
upland  districts  generally,  presents  the  usual  character 
of  a  tenacious  clay  with  striated  stones.  It  occasionally 
contains  intercalated  masses  of  sand  and  gravel  of  inter- 
glacial  age,  indicating  considerable  climatic  changes 
during  that  period.  A  remarkable  example  occurs  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Dorbock  opposite  Glenerney,  where, 
in  a  drift  section  about  100  feet  high  by  aneroid  measure- 
ment, three  boulder  clays  are  exposed  which  are  separated 
by  rudely  stratified  sands  and  gravels,  the  whole  series 
being  capped  by  stratified  sands  and  finely  laminated 
clays.  An  important  feature  connected  with  the  history 
of  the  glacial  deposits  in  the  Elgin  district  is  the  occur- 
rence of  numerous  blocks  containing  secondary  fossils. 
They  occur  in  the  boulder  clay,  and  they  are  likewise 
strewn  over  the  surface  of  the  ground.  From  an  examina- 
tion of  the  fossils  it  is  evident  that  the  boulders  belong  to 
the  horizons  of  the  Lower  and  Middle  Lias,  the  Oxford 
clay,  and  the  Upper  chalk.  Th  e  most  remarkable  example 
of  a  transported  mass  occurs  at  Linksfield,  which  de- 
mands special  attention  on  account  of  its  enormous  size. 
Unfortunately  the  section  is  now  covered  up,  but  from 
the  excellent  descriptions  of  Mr  Duff  and  Dr  Malcolmson, 
there  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  succession  of  limestones 
and  shales  yielding  fish-remains,  Cyp>rides  and  Estherim, 
rests  on  boulder  clay  and  is  covered  by  it.  The  fossils 
obtained  from  this  transported  mass  do  not  fix  the  age 
of  the  beds  with  certainty,  but  they  probably  belong 
to  the  horizon  of  the  Rhretic  or  Lower  Lias  formations. 

Throughout  the  district  there  arc  widespread  sheets 
of  sand  and  gi'avel,  and  along  the  banks  of  the  Spey, 
the  Lossie,  and  the  Findhorn  there  are  high-level  ter- 
races which  are  evidently  of  fluviatile  origin.  They  are 
grandly  developed  in  the  Findhorn  basin  along  the  bor- 
ders of  Elginshire  and  Nairnshire,  and  their  character- 
istic features  may  be  most  conveniently  described  in 
connection  with  the  post-glacial  deposits  of  the  latter 
count}'.  The  100,  50,  and  25  feet  raised  beaches  are 
well  represented  within  the  limits  of  the  county.  The 
lowest  of  these  forms  a  belt  of  flat  land  stretching 
from  Lossiemouth  westwards  by  Old  Duffus  Castle  to 
the  plain  S  of  Burghead.  It  is  evident,  therefore,  that 
the  ridge  between  Lossiemouth  and  Inverugie  must 
have  formed  an  island  in  comparatively  recent  times. 
This  sea-beach  also  forms  a  broad  strip  of  low-lying 
ground  between  Burghead  and  the  western  limit  of  the 
county,  and  at  various  points  it  is  obscured  by  great 
accumulations  of  blown  sand,  of  which  the  most  remark- 
able are  the  Culbin  sandhills.  As  these  deposits  are 
continued  into  the  adjoining  county  of  Nairn  their 
striking  features  and  their  mode  of  formation  will  be 
described  in  connection  mth  that  county.  Between 
Lossiemouth  and  the  Spey  the  present  beach  is  bounded 
by  a  series  of  ridges  which  are  evidently  due  to  wave 
action.  They  consist  of  alternations  of  gravel  and  shingle, 
the  stratification  of  which  usually  coincides  with  the  ex- 
ternal form  of  the  mounds.  They  run  parallel  with  the 
existing  coast-line,  and  occur  at  no  gi-eat  distance  from 
each  other ;  indeed  so  rapidly  do  they  succeed  each  other 
as  we  advance  inland,  that  upwards  of  twenty  of  them 
may  be  counted  in  regular  succession.  An  interest- 
ing example  of  a  '  kitchen  midden '  occurs  on  the  old 
margin  of  the  Loch  of  Spynie  on  the  farm  of  Brigzes. 
From  the  interesting  description  given  by  Dr  Gordon,  it 
is  clear  that  the  two  mounds  must  have  attained  consider- 
able dimensions  ;  the  latter  measuring  80  by  60  yards, 
and  the  smaller  26  by  30  yards.  Among  the  shells  com- 
posing the  refuse  heap  are  the  periwinkle,  the  oyster,  the 
mussel,  the  cockle,  the  limpet,  and  of  these  the  first  is  by 
far  the  most  abundant.  The  occurrence  of  these  mounds 
along  the  inner  margin  of  the  25-feet  beach  furnishes 
interesting  evidence  of  the  elevation  of  the  land  since 
its  occupation  by  man.  On  the  other  hand  the  sub- 
merged forest,  which  occurs  to  the  W  of  Burghead, 

567'" 


ELGINSHIHE 

clearly  points  to  the  depression  wliich  preceded  the 
recent  changes  in  the  relative  level  of  sea  and  land. 

The  cultivation  of  the  county  is,  on  the  whole,  in  a 
highly  advanced  condition.  In  1870  there  were  552 
farms  not  exceeding  5  acres  each  ;  532  of  from  5  to  20 
acres ;  378  of  from  20  to  50  acres ;  312  of  from  50  to 
100  ;  and  285  above  100  acres.  Most  of  the  farms  are 
held  on  lease  of  nineteen  years.  The  farm  steadings 
have  of  late  years  undergone  great  improvement,  and  on 
the  majority  of  the  large  and  middle  sized  farms  there 
are  comfortable  and  well-fitted  dwelling-houses.  Most 
of  the  farms,  too,  have  acquired  additional  value  by  the 
enlargement  of  fields,  the  removal  of  dilapidated  dykes, 
the  covering-in  of  ditches,  the  reclamation  of  waste 
portions,  drainage  and  the  gro^vth  of  hedge  fences  or 
the  erection  of  wire  paling,  as  well  as  by  the  extensive 
and  marked  improvements  in  farm  implements,  and  by 
the  introduction  of  the  reaping  machine.  Some  farms 
are  cropped  on  the  seven  and  some  on  the  sis  shift 
course,  but  the  majority  of  the  farmers  adhere  to  the  five. 
The  acreage  under  woods  and  plantations  is  45,868,  and 
according  to  the  Board  of  Trade  Agricultural  Returns 
the  total  acreage  '  under  all  kinds  of  crops,  bare  fallow, 
and  grass'  is  103,376,  including  5165  acres  under  per- 
manent pasture  or  grass  not  broken  up  in  rotation. 

The  cattle  in  ElgLa  are  fewer  in  proportion  to  the 
cultivated  acreage  than  in  any  other  county  N  of  Forfar- 
shire, but  estimated  by  the  excellence  of  individual 
animals,  they  have  more  than  average  merit.  They 
are  mostly  a  cross  breed  between  the  short  horned  and 
polled  breeds,  produced  with  gi'eat  attention  to  the  high 
character  of  the  bulls.  This  cross  breed  is  believed  to 
be  hardier,  to  grow  more  rapidly,  and  to  take  on  flesh 
more  readily  than  any  other  variety.  There  are  also  a 
number  of  well-known  herds  of  shorthorns,  and  though 
pure  polled  cattle  are  not  very  numerous,  the  Morayshire 
herds  are  very  celebrated,  and  can  generally  manage  to 
hold  their  own  at  the  leading  shows  in  Scotland  and 
England,  and  even  in  France.  Morayshire  sheep  are 
also  well  known.  Leicesters  are  the  standard  breed  for 
the  lower  part  of  the  county,  and  the  blackfaced  sheep 
for  the  higher  ground,  where  the  conditions  of  existence 
are  too  severe  for  the  Leicesters.  Some  farmers  keep 
crosses,  and  at  Gordon  Castle  there  are  Southdowns. 

The  manufactures  of  the  county  are  comparatively 
inconsiderable.  Whisky  is  one  of  the  chief  products, 
there  being  seven  distilleries  in  full  operation  within 
the  county.  Besides  the  wool  manufactories  at  Elgin 
and  Coleburn,  in  the  Glen  of  Rothes,  there  are  others 
at  St  Andrews-Lhanbryd,  Forres,  and  Miltonduff. 
Tan  works  have  long  existed  in  Elgin  and  Forres. 
Shipbuilding  on  a  small  scale  is  carried  on  at  King- 
ston, at  the  mouth  of  the  Spey.  There  used  to  be  a 
considerable  herring  fishing  at  Lossiemouth,  Hopeman, 
and  Burgliead,  but  for  a  number  of  j'ears  the  home 
fishing  has  been  almost  a  complete  failure,  and  most  of 
the  boats  prefer  to  go  to  some  of  the  larger  ports  at 
Aberdeen,  Peterhead,  or  elsewhere.  Each  of  the  three 
seaports  just  mentioned  has  a  tidal  harbour,  and  there 
is  a  coasting  trade,  particularly  in  slates,  coal,  and  pit 
props.  There  are  chemical  works  at  Forres  and  Burg- 
head.  Black  cattle  and  field  produce  are  the  principal 
articles  of  export,  but  in  some  years  the  cattle  are  in 
little  or  no  demand,  and  the  field  produce  is  all  required 
for  home  consumption.  There  are  large  quantities  of 
salmon  sent  S  from  the  valuable  fisheries  at  the  mouths 
of  the  Spey  and  Findhorn,  and  from  the  fixed  net  fishings 
along  the  intervening  coast.  Timber  from  the  Strath- 
spey Forests  has  also  long  been  exported.  The  principal 
jjorts  are  in  order  from  E  to  W,  Garmouth,  Kingston, 
Lossiemouth,  Burghead,  and  Findhorn,  but  they  are  all 
small,  none  of  them  being  more  than  a  sub-port.  At 
Burghead,  cargoes  are  discharged  in  connection  with  the 
chemical  works  at  Burghead  and  Forres.  Numerous 
fairs  for  live  stock  are  held  at  Elgin,  Forres,  Findhorn, 
Lhanbryd,  and  Garmouth,  but  they  are  less  valued  by 
the  farmers  than  the  fairs  of  Banffshire. 

The  county  is  intersected  by  a  number  of  railways. 
The  Inverness  and  Keith  portion  of  the  Highland  rail- 
568 


ELGmSEIBE 

way  enters  the  shire  near  Keith,  and  passes  through  it 
from  E  to  W,  by  Lhanbryd,  Elgin,  and  Forres.  There 
are  branch  lines  to  Burghead  (from  Alves  station),  and 
to  Findhorn  (from  Kinloss) ;  but  the  latter  is  not  in 
the  meantime  being  worked.  At  Forres,  the  Forres 
and  Perth  section  branches  off  and  passes  through  the 
county  from  N  to  S,  till  it  leaves  it  about  4  miles  S  of 
of  Grantown,  close  to  the  point  where  the  Dulnan  and 
Spey  unite,  and  therefore  almost  at  the  most  southerly 
point  of  the  shire.  Starting  from  Elgin,  as  its  northern 
terminus,  the  Great  North  of  Scotland  railway  system 
has  a  branch  line  from  Elgin  to  Lossiemouth.  The 
main  line  passes  southward  through  the  Glen  of  Rothes, 
passes  Rothes,  and  leaves  the  county  when  it  crosses 
the  Spey  at  Craigellachie.  At  CraigeUachie  the  line 
branches,  one  part  passLug  on  to  Keith  and  Aberdeen, 
and  the  other  turning  up  Spey-side.  The  Spey-side 
section  runs  for  the  first  6  miles  on  the  Banffshire  side 
of  the  river,  but  at  Carron  it  crosses  to  Elginshire,  and 
with  the  exception  of  about  |  mile  near  Ballindal- 
loch,  remains  in  Elginshire  till  it  passes  into  Inver- 
ness-shire, about  2  miles  E  of  Grantown.  It  joins  the 
Highland  railway  system  at  Boat  of  Garten.  There 
was  at  one  time  a  branch  line  connecting  the  Great 
North  (Morayshire)  system  at  Rothes  with  the  High- 
land system  at  Orton,  but  it  has  not  been  worked  for 
a  number  of  years.  A  bill  has  now  (1882)  passed 
through  Parliament,  granting  powers  for  the  construc- 
tion of  a  railway  along  the  coast,  from  Elgiu  to  Portsoy. 
This  line  will,  when  made,  intersect  the  county  from 
Elgin  eastwards  as  far  as  Fochabers.  The  roads  aU  over 
the  county  are  numerous  and  excellent.  A  suiTey, 
made  in  1866,  gave  the  total  length  of  roads  within 
the  county  at  439  mUes.  In  1864  tolls  were  abolished 
all  over  the  shire,  except  at  the  Findhorn  Suspension 
Bridge,  near  Forres,  where  there  was  at  that  time  a 
special  debt  of  £2000  still  remaining. 

The  royal  burghs  are  Elgin  and  Forres ;  the  other 
towns,  with  each  more  than  1000  inhabitants,  are 
Branderbnrgh,  Burghead,  Fochabers,  Grantown,  Hope- 
man,  Rothes,  and  Bishopmill ;  and  the  smaller  towns 
and  principal  villages  are  Lossiemouth,  Findhorn,  Gar- 
mouth, New  Elgin,  Kingston,  Archiesto'wn,  Lhanbryd, 
Mosstodlach,  Urquhart,  Stotfield,  New  Duffus,  Gum- 
ingston,  Roseisle,  Kinloss,  Crook,  Coltfield,  Rafford, 
Dallas,  Edenkillie,  Dyke,  Kintessack,  and  Whitemyre. 
The  principal  seats  are  Gordon  Castle  (partly  in  Banff- 
shire), Darnaway  Castle,  Innes  House,  Castle-Grant,  Duf- 
fus House,  Eallindalloch  Castle,  Alt3're,  Roseisle,  Rose- 
islehaugh,  Inverugie,  Muirton,  Orton  House,  Sprmgfield, 
Inverugie,  Dunkinty,  Easter  Elchies,  Wester  Elchies, 
Dumphail,  Seapark,  Kincorth,  Dalvey,  Westerton,  Black- 
hUls,  Milton  Brodie,  Newton,  Doune,  Sanquhar  House, 
Drumduan,  Dallas  Lodge,  Relugas,  Logic,  Grange  Hall, 
Brodie  House,  Orton,  Auchinroath,  and  Burgle. 

The  county  is  governed  by  a  lord-lieutenant,  a  vice- 
lieutenant,  27  deputy-lieutenants,  a  sheriff,  3  assistant 
sheriif-substitutes,  and  114  magistrates.  The  ordinary 
sheriff  court  is  held  at  Elgin,  on  every  Monday  for 
proofs  in  civil  causes,  on  every  Thursday  for  ordinary 
business  of  civil  causes,  and  on  every  or  any  Tuesday, 
as  occasion  requires,  for  criminal  causes.  The  com- 
missary court  for  Elginshire  and  Nairnshire  is  held  at 
Elgin.  Sheriff  small  debt  courts  are  held  at  Elgin  on 
every  Wednesday ;  at  Forres,  six  times  a  year ;  at 
Grantown,  four  times  a  year ;  at  Rothes,  four  times  a 
year ;  at  Fochabers,  three  times  a  year.  The  police 
force,  in  1881,  exclusive  of  that  for  Elgin  burgh,  com- 
prised 16  men ;  and  the  salary  of  the  chief  constable 
was  £230.  The  number  of  persons  apprehended  or  cited 
by  the  police  in  1880,  exclusive  of  those  in  Elgin  burgh, 
was  239  ;  the  number  of  these  convicted,  224  ;  the 
number  committed  for  trial,  22  ;  the  number  not  dealt 
with,  124.  The  annual  committals  for  crime,  in  the 
average  of  1836-40,  were  19  ;  of  1841-45,  35  ;  of  1846-50, 
41  ;  of  1851-55,  39  ;  of  1856-60,  59  ;  of  1861-65,  58  ;  of 
1865-69,  48  ;  of  1871-75,  20  ;  and  of  1876-80,  22.  The 
prison  is  in  Elgin,  and  is  one  of  those  still  retained 
under  the  new  Prisons'  Act.     The  annual  value  of  real 


ELIBANE 

property,  in  1815,  was  £73,288  ;  in  1845,  £98,115  ;  in 
1875,  £208,167;  in  1882,  £228,073.  Elgin  and  Nairn 
Bhires  return  a  member  to  parliament ;  and  the  Elgin- 
shire (y.nstituency,  in  1882,  was  1746.  Pop.  (1801) 
27,760,  (1821)  31,398,  (1841)  35,012,  (1861)  43,322, 
(1871)  43,128,  (1881)  43,788,  of  whom  20,725  were 
males,  and  23,063  females.  Houses  (1881)  8611  in- 
habited, 391  vacant,  71  building. 

The  registration  county  gives  off  part  of  Cromdale 
parish  to  Inverness-shire,  and  parts  of  Inveraven  and 
Keith  to  Banffshire ;  takes  in  part  of  Dyke  and  Moy 
from  Nairnshire,  and  parts  of  Bellie,  Boharm,  and 
Rothes  from  Banffshire.  It  comprehends  nineteen  en- 
tire quoad  civilia  parishes,  and  had  in  1871  a  population 
of  44,549,  and  in  1881  a  population  of  45, 108  All  the 
parishes  are  assessed  for  the  poor.  Fourteen  of  them, 
mth  one  in  Banffshire,  form  the  Morayshire  Combina- 
tion, which  has  a  poorhouse  at  Bishopmill.  One  is  in 
the  Nairn  Combination.  The  number  of  registered 
poor,  for  the  year  ending  14  May  1881,  was  1230  ;  of 
dependants  on  these,  641  ;  of  casual  poor,  283 ;  of  de- 
pendants on  these,  221.  The  receipts  for  the  poor  were 
£12,736,  Os.  8Jd.,  aud  the  expenditure  was  £12,602, 
19s.  9d.  The  percentage  of  illegitimate  births  was  13 '6 
in  1871,  17-1  in  1878,  13  in  1879,  and  16-8  in  1880. 

The  county  comprises  the  si.xteen  entire  parishes  of 
Alves,  St  Andrews-Lhanbryd,  Birnie,  Drainie,  Duffus, 
Elgin,  Speymouth,  Spynie,  and  Urquhart,  constituting 
the  presbytery  of  Elgin ;  DaUas,  Edenkillie,  Forres, 
Kinloss,  and  Rafford,  in  the  presbytery  of  Forres ; 
Knoekando,  in  the  presbytery  of  Aberlour  ;  and  Crom- 
dale, in  the  presbytery  of  Abernethy.  It  shares  with 
Banffshire  the  parishes  of  Bellie  and  Keith,  in  the  pres- 
bytery of  Strathbogie  and  Boharm ;  Inveraven  and 
Rothes,  in  the  presbytery  of  Aberlour  ;  and  with  Nairn- 
sliu'e  the  parish  of  Dyke,  in  the  presbytery  of  Forres. 
There  are  quoad  sacra  parishes  at  Burghead  and  Lossie- 
mouth, and  mission  churches  at  Advie  and  Knoekando. 
The  whole  are  within  the  jurisdiction  of  the  synod  of 
Moray.  In  the  year  ending  30  Sept.  1880,  the  county 
had  62  schools  (51  of  them  public),  with  accommodation 
for  10,202  scholars,  7466  on  the  registers,  and  5800  in 
average  attendance.  The  certificated,  assistant,  and 
pupU  teachers  numbered  respectively  91,  5,  and  74. 

The  territory  now  forming  Elginshire  belonged  to  the 
ancient  Caledonian  Vacomagi,  and  was  included  in  the 
Roman  division  or  so-caUed  province  of  Vespasiana.  It 
formed  part  of  the  kingdom  of  Pictavia,  and  underwent 
many  changes  in  connection  with  descents  and  settle- 
ments of  the  Scandinavians.  In  the  Jliddle  Ages  it 
formed  the  middle  part  of  the  great  province  of  Moray 
[see  Moeat],  although  it  early  became  a  separate  part 
of  that  province.  It  seems  to  have  been  disjoined  from 
Inverness  as  early  as  1263,  for  in  that  year  Gilbert  de 
Rule  is  mentioned  in  the  Eegistnun  Moraviense  as 
sheriff  of  Elgin.  The  sheriff  of  Inverness  still,  how- 
ever, at  times  exercised  a  jurisdiction  within  the  county 
of  Elgin ;  aud  the  proper  erection  of  the  county  and 
sheriffdom  was  not  till  the  time  of  James  II. ,  the  earlier 
sheriffs  having  probably  had  much  narrower  limits  to 
their  power.  The  principal  antiquities  are  the  so-called 
Roman  well  and  bulls  at  Burghead,  standing  stones  at 
Urquhart  and  elsewhere,  cup-marked  stones  near  Burg- 
head and  near  Alves,  the  cathedral,  etc.,  at  Elgin, 
Spjmie  palace,  Birnie  church,  the  abbey  of  Kinloss,  the 
priory  of  Pluscarden,  the  Michael  kirk  at  Gordonstown, 
the  old  porch  of  Duffus  church,  Sueno's  Stone  at  Forres, 
remains  of  Caledonian  encampments  on  the  Culbin 
Sands,  a  sculptured  cave  near  Hopeman,  castles  at 
Elgin,  Forres,  Lochindorb,  Rothes,  and  Duffus,  and  the 
towers  at  Coxtou  and  Blervie.  See  Shaw's  Eistory 
of  the  Province  of  Moray  (Edinb.  1775;  2d  ed.,  Elgin, 
1827  ;  3d  ed.,  Glasgow,  1882) ;  A  Walk  Round  Moray- 
shire (Banff,  1877) ;  Watson's  Morayshire  Described  (El- 
gin, 1868) ;  Leslie  and  Grant's  Survey  of  the  Province  of 
Moray  (1798). 

Elibank,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion  and  a  ruined  castle, 
in  Yarrow  parish,  Selkirkshire.  The  mansion,  Elibank 
Cottage,  stands  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  Tweed,  5J  ! 


ELIE 

mUes  E  of  Innerleithen.  In  1595  the  estate  was  granted 
to  the  eminent  lawyer.  Sir  Gideon  Murray,  a  cadet  of 
the  Darnhall  or  Blackbarony  line  ;  and  by  him,  doubt- 
less, Elibank  Tower  was  either  wholly  built  or  extended 
from  the  condition  of  an  old  Border  peel.  '  Now  a 
shattered  ruin, '  says  Dr  Chambers,  '  occupying  a  com- 
manding situation  on  the  S  bank  of  the  Tweed,  Elibank 
stiU  shows  signs  of  having  been  a  residence  of  a  very 
imposing  character,  defensible  according  to  the  usages 
of  the  period  at  which  it  was  inhabited. '  Sir  Gideon's 
daughter,  Agnes,  was  the  '  Muckle-mou'ed  Meg '  of 
Border  story,  who  really,  in  1611,  did  wed  young  Wil- 
liam Scott  of  Harden,  though  the  story  otherwise 
seems  to  have  no  foundation  ;  and  Sir  Gideon's  son, 
Patrick,  was  in  1643  raised  to  the  peerage  as  Lord 
Elibank.  Two  younger  sons  of  the  fourth  Lord  Elibank, 
Alexander  and  James,  are  notable — the  first  as  a  violent 
Jacobite,  and  the  second  for  his  five  months'  defence  of 
Fort  St  Philip,  Minorca  (1781-82),  with  less  than  1000 
men  against  40,000  French  and  Spaniards.  The  Darn- 
hall,  Ballencrieff,  and  Elibank  estates  were  all  united 
in  the  person  of  Alexander  Murray  (1747-1820),  who 
succeeded  as  seventh  Lord  in  1785  ;  and  Elibank  'Tower 
has  since  been  left  to  sink  to  decay.  The  present  Lord 
Elibank  holds  1168  acres  in  Selkirkshu-e,  valued  at  £361 
per  annum. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  25,  1865.  See  Darnhall, 
and  pp.  345-354  of  Dr  William  Chambers'  History  of 
Peeblesshire  (Edinb.  1864). 

Elie  or  Ely,  a  small  police  burgh  and  a  parish  on  the 
SE  coast  of  Fife.  The  town  stands  close  to  the  shore  at 
the  head  of  a  bay  of  its  own  name,  and  has  a  station  on 
the  East  of  Fife  section  of  the  North  British,  4|  miles 
WSW  of  Anstruther,  14  ENE  of  Thornton  Junction, 
and  34  NE  of  Edinburgh.  In  bygone  times  a  place  of 
some  importance,  it  retains  a  few  antique  mansions  in 
a  street  near  the  beach,  but  mainly  consists  of  modem 
well-built  houses.  It  has  for  a  long  time  been  a  place 
of  considerable  resort  for  summer  sea-bathing,  but 
carries  on  little  trade,  although  it  possesses  an  excellent 
natural  harbour,  much  improved  by  quays  and  a  pier, 
and  affording  safe  and  accessible  shelter  during  gales 
from  the  W  or  SW.  The  bay  is  7  furlongs  wide  across 
the  entrance,  and  thence  measures  3J  to  its  inmost  re- 
cess ;  it  is  flanked  on  the  E  by  EUe  Ness,  and  by  Chapel 
Ness  on  the  W.  Wadehaven,  a  little  to  the  E  of  the 
harbour,  has  a  depth  of  from  20  to  22  feet  of  water  at 
ordinary  tides,  and  is  said  to  have  been  named  after 
General  Wade,  who  recommended  it  to  Government  as  a 
suitable  harbour  for  ships  of  the  royal  navy.  Imme- 
diately to  the  W  is  the  small  old  burgh  of  Earlsferrt, 
on  whose  capital  links  an  elegant  golf  club-house  was 
lately  erected  ;  and  Elie  itself  has  a  post  office,  with 
money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  departments, 
a  branch  of  the  National  Bank,  2  hotels,  gas-works, 
water-works  (conjointly  with  Earlsferry  and  St  Mon- 
ance),  a  subscription  library  of  4000  volumes,  the  parish 
church  (1726  ;  610  sittings),  with  a  spire,  a  Free  church, 
and  a  public  school.  Having  in  1865  adopted  the 
General  Police  and  Improvement  Act,  it  is  governed  by 
a  chief  magistrate,  2  junior  magistrates,  and  3  other 
police  commissioners,  with  a  town-clerk  and  a  treasurer. 
Burgh  assessable  rental  (1882)  £3804.  Pop,  (1861)  706, 
(1871)  626,  (1881)  625,  of  whom  79  were  in  Kiloonquhar 
parish. 

The  parish  down  to  about  1639  formed  part  of  Kil- 
conquhar,  by  a  strip  of  which — 5  furlongs  broad  at  the 
narrowest — it  now  is  divided  into  two  unequal  portions. 
The  larger  cf  these,  containing  the  town,  is  bounded  W 
and  N  by  KUconquhar,  NE  by  St  Monance,  and  SE  and 
S  by  the  Firth  of  Forth,  which  here  has  a  minimum 
^vidth  of  8:^  mUes.  The  smaller  or  westerly  portion  is 
bounded  NE  and  SE  by  KUconquhar,  and  W  by  New- 
burn.  It  has  an  utmost  length  and  breadth  of  9  and 
7i  furlongs,  as  the  main  body  has  of  2 J  and  IJ  miles  ; 
and  the  area  of  the  whole  is  2241 J  acres,  of  which  650  j 
belong  to  the  westerly  section,  and  210J  are  foreshore. 
The  surface  is  generally  flat,  and  rises  nowhere  into  a 
hill.  KUconquhar  Loch  (4x3  furl.)  touches  the 
northern  boundary  of  the  main  body ;  and  Cocklemill 

569 


ELIOCK 

Burn  traces  tie  soutli-eastern  border  of  the  detached 
portion.  The  rocks  belong  chiefly  to  the  Carboniferous 
formation,  but  include,  on  the  coast,  greenstone,  basalt, 
clinkstone,  and  trap-tufa.  The  carboniferous  rocks,  too, 
are  traversed  by  trap-dykes ;  and  they  comprise  sand- 
stone, limestone,  shale,  coal,  and  clay-ironstone.  Some 
50  acres  are  under  wood  ;  and  nearly  all.  the  rest  of  the 
land,  excepting  the  links,  is  in  tillage.  Natives  were 
Eobert  TralU  (1612-1716),  a  divine  of  the  Church  of 
Scotland,  and  James  Horsburgh,  F.R.S.  (1762-1836), 
the  eminent  hydrographer.  Elie  House,  to  the  NNE 
of  the  town,  was  built  towards  the  close  of  the  17th 
century,  and  is  a  large  edifice  in  the  Renaissance  style, 
with  beautiful  grounds.  Its  owner,  William  Baird, 
Esq.  (b.  1848;  sue.  1864),  holds  3120  acres  in  the 
shire,  valued  at  £8223  per  annum.  Elie  is  in  the  pres- 
bytery of  St  Andrews  and  synod  of  Fife  ;  the  living  is 
worth  £200.  The  public  school,  mth  accommodation 
for  112  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of 
94,  and  a  grant  of  £83,  10s.  Valuation  (1866)  £6136, 
(1882)  £7234,  9s.  Pop.  (1801)  730,  (1831)  1029,  (1861) 
826,  (1871)  775,  (1881)  G70.— Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  41,  1857. 

Eliock.     See  Elliock. 

Eliston,  an  ancient  baronial  pile  in  Kirkliston  parish, 
Linlithgowshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Almond,  1  mile 
ESE  of  Drumshoreland  station.  It  is  supposed  to  have 
been  an  ancient  hunting-seat  of  the  kings  of  Scotland, 
particularly  of  James  II.  and  James  IV.  ;  and  it  now  be- 
longs to  the  Earl  of  Hopetoun. 

Eliston,  Renfrewshire.     See  Elliston. 

Elizafield,  a  village  in  Torthorwald  parish,  Dumfries- 
shire, near  Collin,  4J  miles  E  by  S  of  Dumfries. 

Ella.     See  Elgak." 

EUag  Loch,  a  lake  of  Kincardine  parish,  N  Ross- 
shire,  6J  miles  NW  of  Oikell  Bridge.  Lying  500  feet 
above  sea-level,  it  has  an  utmost  length  of  2  and  IJ 
furlongs ;  is  notable  for  wild  swans  ;  and  sends  off  a 
stream  1 J  mile  east-north-eastward  to  the  river  OikeU. — 
Ord.  Sicr.,  sh.  102,  1881. 

Ellam  or  Ellem,  an  ancient  parish  in  the  N  of  Berwick- 
shire, now  incorporated  with  Longformacus.  It  lies 
along  Whitadder  Water,  among  the  Lammermuir  Hills  ; 
and  it  gives  its  name  to  Ellem  inn  and  EUemford  on 
Whitadder  Water,  6  miles  NW  of  Duns.  It  belonged 
to  the  Earls  of  Dunbar,  and,  after  their  forfeiture,  was 
given  by  the  Crown  to  Thomas  Erskine. 

Elian  or  An  Eilein,  a  loch  in  the  Rothiemurchus  por- 
tion of  Duthil  parish,  Inverness-shire,  stretching  along  the 
base  of  Ordban  Hill.  Lying  840  feet  above  sea-level,  it 
has  an  utmost  length  and  breadth  of  7|  and  4J  furlongs  ; 
contains  an  islet,  with  ruins  of  a  stronghold  of  the  Wolf 
of  Badenoch  ;  and  is  skirted  by  some  noble  remains  of 
the  ancient  Caledonian  forest. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  74, 
1877. 

EUanabriech,  a  village  in  Kilbrandon  parish,  Argyll- 
shire, on  the  W  coast  of  Sell  island,  opposite  Easdale 
island,  and  forming  practically  one  seat  of  population 
with  Easdale  village.     See  Easdale. 

EUan-Aigas.    See  Aigas. 

EUan-an-Tighe.     See  Ellan-na-Kelly. 

EUan-Chaistal.    See  Castle-Island. 

Elian  Collumkill,  a  small  island  in  Portree  Bay,  Isle 
of  Skye,  Inverness-shire.  It  got  its  name  in  honour  of 
St  Columba ;  and  the  bay  in  which  it  lies  was  long 
called  Loch  Collumkill.     See  also  Ekisort. 

Ellan-Dheirrig.     See  Dheierig. 

EUandonan,  a  small  rocky  island,  crowned  by  a 
ruined,  ivy-clad,  ancient  castle,  in  KintaU  parish,  Ross- 
shire,  at  the  forking  of  Loch  Alsh  into  Lochs  Long  and 
Duich,  8J  miles  E  of  Kyle  Akin.  The  castle  presents  a 
picturesque  appearance,  backed  by  a  noble  range  of  hills. 
Occupying  the  site  of  a  Caledonian  vitrified  fort,  it  is 
said  to  have  been  given  in  1266  to  Colin  Fitzgerald,  son 
of  the  Earl  of  Desmond,  and  to  have  been  the  scene  in 
1331  of  a  severe  act  of  retributive  justice  by  Randolph, 
Earl  of  jMoray,  then  warden  of  Scotland,  who  executed 
in  it  fifty  delinquents,  and  ranged  their  heads  round  its 
■walls.  Certain  it  is  that  it  was  long  a  stronghold  of  the 
Mackenzies  of  Eintail,  and  that  it  sustained  in  1539  a 
570 


ELLAN-NA-COOMB 

famous  attack  by  Donald  Gorm,  a  claimant  to  the 
lordship  of  the  Isles,  whose  assault  on  it  cost  him 
his  life,  and  is  celebrated  in  a  ballad  by  Colin  Mac- 
kenzie in  Scott's  Border  3Iinstrelsy.  In  1719  it  was 
garrisoned  by  a  Spanish  force  under  William  Mackenzie, 
fifth  Earl  of  Seaforth,  with  the  Earl  Marischal  and  the 
Marquis  of  TuUibardine ;  but  three  English  ships-of- 
war  soon  battered  its  mde  square  tower  to  pieces,  and 
its  defenders  retired  to  Glenshiel. 

EUan-Duirinnis,  an  islet  (3^  x  IJ  furl.)  of  Ardchattan 
parish,  Argyllshire,  in  Loch  Etive,  opposite  Bunawe, 
It  lies  in  the  line  of  the  ferry  over  the  loch,  and  is  con  ■ 
nected  with  the  mainland  by  a  raised  road  approach. 

EUan-Fada,  an  island  of  South  Knapdale  parish, 
Argj'llshire,  near  the  head  of  Loch  Caolisport.  It 
affords  shelter  from  the  heavy  swells  raised  by  the  SW 
gales,  and  there  is  good  anchorage  for  vessels  on  its  lee 
side. 

Elian -Finnan,  a  small  island  of  Ardnamurchan 
parish,  Argyllshire,  in  Loch  Shiel,  at  the  boundary 
with  Inverness-shire. 

EUan-Freuch,  an  islet,  with  ruins  of  an  ancient 
fortalice,  in  the  Sound  of  Islay,  Argyllshire. 

Ellan-Gainvich.  See  Sanda,  Small  Isles,  Argyll- 
shire. 

EUan-Gheirrig.    See  Dheieeig. 

Ellangowan.    See  Caeelaveeock. 

EUan-Issa.     See  Issat. 

EUan-Lochscar,  the  chief  one  of  several  islets  off  the 
SW  side  of  Lismore  island,  Argyllshire,  at  the  mouth 
of  Portnamarloch. 

Ellan-Maree,  a  wooded  islet  of  Gairloch  parish,  Eoss- 
shire,  one  of  the  smallest  and  most  easterly  of  the 
island  group  towards  the  middle  of  Loch  Maree.  It 
seems  to  have  been  the  site  of  a  pre-Reformation  chapel 
dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary,  and  hence  to  have  got  its 
name,  which  some,  however,  derive  from  the  GaeL 
Ellaii-mac-Ei(jh,  '  the  island  of  the  king's  son,'  a  prince 
of  Norway,  according  to  tradition,  having  been  bm-ied 
here.  It  contains  remains  of  an  ancient  burying-ground, 
and  has  also  a  deep  well,  consecrated  in  popular  super- 
stition to  Saint  Maree.  TUl  not  very  long  ago  Ellan- 
Maree  was  supposed  by  the  country  folk  round  to  possess 
a  virtue  for  the  cure  of  insanity — their  method  for 
obtaining  the  cure  being  to  drag  the  lunatic  to  the  shore 
of  the  lake,  fasten  him  by  a  rope  to  a  romng  boat,  and 
tow  him  round  the  island,  after  which  he  had  to  drink 
some  water  from  the  holy  well.  The  island  was  visited 
by  Queen  Victoria  in  Sept.  im.—Ord.Sxir.,sh.  92,1881. 

Ellan-More,  a  pastoral  isle  of  Tiree  and  CoU  parish, 
Argyllshire,  adjacent  to  the  NE  coast  of  Coll  island. 

Elian-More,  a  pastoral  isle  of  South  Knapdale  parish, 
Argyllshire,  in  the  Sound  of  Jura,  near  the  mouth  of 
Loch  Swin.  An  ancient  chapel,  dedicated  to  St  Connao, 
stands  nearly  in  the  middle,  and,  measuring  only  15 
feet  by  8,  is  an  arched  structure,  covered  with  flags,  and 
in  a  state  of  high  preservation.  It  includes  an  upper 
chamber,  accessible  only  by  a  ladder,  and  supposed  to 
have  been  used  for  concealment ;  contains  an  admirably 
sculptured  effigy  of  a  priest,  under  a  canopy ;  and  is 
adjoined  by  an  apartment,  now  roofless.  The  shaft  of 
an  ancient  cross  stands  on  the  highest  point  of  the  island ; 
and  the  disc  of  the  cross,  showing  on  one  side  a  quaint 
representation  of  the  Crucifixion,  on  the  other  side  a 
scroll-work  of  foliage,  was  discovered  in  the  vicinity  in 
1864. 

Elian  Munde,  an  islet  of  Lismore  and  Appin  parish, 
Argyllshire,  in  Loch  Leven,  opposite  Ballachulish  and 
the  mouth  of  the  rivulet  Coe.  It  contains  the  ruins  of 
a  church,  founded,  on  the  site  of  a  Culdee  cell,  about 
the  middle  of  the  10th  century  by  an  abbot  of  the  name 
of  Mund  ;  and  around  the  ruins  is  an  ancient  cemetery 
still  in  use.  A  former  parish,  including  the  island,  and 
taking  name  from  it,  comprehended  Glencoe  and  the 
adjacent  parts  of  Appin,  and  now  is  incorporated  chiefly 
with  Lismore  and  Appin,  and  partly  mth  KUmallie. 

EUan-na-Coomb  or  Ellan-na-Naoimh,  a  small  island 
of  Tongue  parish,  Sutherland,  separated  from  the  main- 
land by  the  strait  of  Caol  Bean,  1  fmiong  wide  at  the 


ELLAN-NAEELLY 

narrowest,  a  little  W  of  Torrisdale  Ba)-,  and  9  furlongs 
E  by  S  of  EUan-nan-Eon.  With  utmost  length  and 
breadth  of  4^  and  3J  furlongs,  it  rises  to  a  height  of  231 
feet,  contains  traces  of  an  ancient  chapel  and  cemetery, 
and  is  so  tunnelled  and  perforated  on  the  S  side  that 
half-flood  tide,  during  a  north-westerly  gale,  throws  up 
from  it  a  jet  d'eau  30  feet  high,  followed  by  a  detonating 
sound  like  the  report  of  cannon. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  114, 
18S0. 

EUan-na-Kelly  or  EUan-an-Tighe,  the  southern  one 
of  the  three  Shiant  isles,  in  the  Outer  Hebrides,  in  the 
Minch,  5\  miles  SE  of  Ushenish  Point  in  Lewis,  and  22J 
S  by  E  of  Stornowaj'.  It  connects  with  Garv-EUan  by 
a  neck  of  rolled  pebbles,  covered  only  at  a  concurrence 
of  spring  tide  and  tempestuous  wind ;  and  is  1  mile  long, 
whilst  varying  in  width  from  1  to  2J  furlongs.  Its 
basaltic  rock  presents  some  columnar  masses  similar  to 
those  of  Ulva  and  Staffa ;  and  its  tumulated  but  verdant 
surface  affords  rich  sheep  pasture.  It  appears  to  have 
anciently  been  the  seat  of  a  monastery  or  hermitage, 
whence  it  took  its  name,  signifying  the  '  island  of  the 
cell ; '  and  it  still  possesses  some  ruins  which  look  to  have 
been  ecclesiastical. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  99,  1858. 

EUan-na-Naoimh.  See  Ellan-na-Coomb  and  Gab- 
VELOOH  Isles. 

EUan-nan-Gobhar,  an  islet  in  Loch  Aylort,  Ardna- 
murchan  parish,  Inverness-shire.  It  is  an  abrupt 
irregular  mass  of  mica  slate ;  and  it  contains  two 
vitrified  forts  within  a  few  yards  of  each  other — the  one 
of  an  oblong  figure,  and  140  paces  in  circumference, 
the  other  circular,  and  90  paces  in  circumference. 

Ellan-nan-Eon  (Gael,  'seal  island'),  an  inhabited 
island  of  Tongue  parish,  N  Sutherland,  to  the  E  of  the 
entrance  to  the  Kyle  of  Tongue,  5J  miles  NNE  of 
Tongue  church.  Measuring  1  mUe  by  6^  furlongs,  and 
rising  to  a  height  of  247  feet  above  the  sea,  it  is  parted 
on  the  NW  by  a  narrow  channel  from  EUan-Iosal  (^ 
mile  X  2J  furl.  ;  171  feet),  and  is  girt  with  high  preci- 
pitous rocks,  deeply  channelled  on  the  N  side  by  narrow 
fissures.  On  the  N  side,  too,  is  a  noble  natural  arch, 
150  feet  high  and  70  wide  ;  whilst  towards  the  middle 
of  the  island  is  a  large  round  hole,  which  is  supposed  to 
communicate  with  the  sea  by  a  natural  tunnel.  The 
fissures  of  its  cliffs  are  swept,  with  great  violence,  by 
winds  impregnated  with  saline  matter,  and,  leaving  de- 
posits of  salt,  so  are  used,  without  any  artificial  appliance 
of  salt,  for  curing  fish. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  114,  1880. 

Ellan-Rorymore,  an  island  in  Loch  Maree,  Gairloch 
parish,  Ross-shire.  It  was  planted  with  pines  about  the 
year  1815,  and  it  contains  vestiges  of  a  subterranean  cir- 
cular structure,  similar  to  a  Scandinavian  dun  or  burgh. 
John  Roy,  ancestor  of  the  Mackenzies  of  Gairloch,  held 
it  as  a  place  of  security  from  the  attacks  of  the  Macleods  ; 
and  it  was  afterwards  occupied  by  his  son  Alexander  or 
Allister,  who  figures  in  tradition  as  a  man  of  great 
wisdom  and  valour. 

EUan-Subhainn,  a  wooded  island  of  Gairloch  parish, 
Ross-shire,  the  largest  of  the  group  towards  the  middle 
of  Loch  Maree,  5  furlongs  N  of  Talladale.  It  measures 
1  by  5  mile,  and  to  the  NW  contains  a  small  loch. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  92,  1881. 

Elian-Vow,  an  islet  of  Arrochar  parish,  Dumbarton- 
shire, towards  the  head  of  Loch  Lomond,  2i  miles  N  by 
W  of  Inversnaid.  It  is  beautifully  wooded,  and  some 
of  its  trees  are  very  old,  said  to  have  been  planted  by 
King  Robert  Bruce.  It  also  contains  ruins  of  an  ancient 
fortalice  of  the  Macfarlanes ;  and  a  vault  beneath  the 
ruins  was  inhabited,  early  in  the  present  century,  by  an 
ascetic  of  the  Macfarlane  clan,  and  bears  the  name  of  the 
Hermit's  Cave.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  38,  1871. 

Elian- Wirrey  or  EUan-Mhuire,  the  easternmost  of  the 
three  Shiant  isles,  in  the  Outer  Hebrides,  i  mile  E  of 
Gaiv-Ellan  and  5  furlongs  NE  of  Ellan-na-Kelly.  With 
a  crescent-like  outline,  it  measures  7J  by  24  furlongs, 
and  presents  a  basaltic  and  verdant  appearance  similar 
tothat  of  EUan-na-Kelly.— Oi-c?.  Sur.,  sh.  99,  185S. 

Ellar.    See  Shapikshay. 

Ellemford.    See  Ellam. 

Ellenabeich.     See  Ellanabeiech. 


ELLISLAND 

Ellen,  Port.    See  Port  Eixon'. 

Ellen's  Isle  or  Eilean  Molach,  an  islet  of  Callander 
parish,  Perthshire,  towards  the  foot  of  Loch  Katrine, 
immediately  opposite  Ben  A''enue.  Highly  romantic  in 
appearance,  craggy  and  wooded,  it  is  the  centre  of  the 
action  of  Sir  Walter  Scott's  Lady  of  the  Lake ;  and  it 
contained,  for  some  time,  a  modern  sylvan  lodge  like  that 
described  in  the  poem,  decorated  with  trophies  of  the 
chase  and  fray,  but  destroyed  by  accidental  fire  in  1837. 
Together  with  the  sm-rounding  shores,  aided  by  the 
strong  natnral  defences  of  the  circumjacent  ravines  and 
mountains,  it  long  served  as  a  fastness  of  Highland 
caterans  in  their  marauding  expeditions  against  the 
Lowlanders. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  38,  1871. 

Eller.     See  Shapikshay. 

EUer-Holm,  a  verdant  isle  of  Shapinshay  parish, 
Orkney,  lying  across  the  mouth  of  EUwick  Bay,  on  the 
SW  side  of  Shapinshay  island. 

EUim.     See  Ellam. 

EUinor.    See  Port  Ellinoe. 

EUiock,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Sanquhar  parish, 
NW  Dumfriesshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  EUiock  Burn,  3 
mUes  SE  of  Sanquhar.  It  belonged  to  Robert  Crichton, 
lord  advocate  of  Scotland  in  the  reigns  of  Queen  Mary 
and  James  VI.,  and  father  of  James  Crichton  (1560-83), 
best  known  as  '  the  Admirable  Crichton.'  The  room  in 
which  the  latter  was  born  is  kept  in  nearly  its  original 
condition.  (See  Clunib,  Perthshire.)  By  the  lord 
advocate  the  estate  was  sold  to  the  DalzeUs,  afterwards 
Earls  of  Carnwath,  and  from  them  it  went  to  the 
Veitches,  its  present  owner,  the  Rev.  WiUiam  Douglas 
Veitch  (b.  1801  ;  sue.  1873),  holding  5163  acres  in 
the  shire,  valued  at  £1693  per  annum.  EUiock  Bmii, 
rising  on  Wether  Hill,  at  the  Penpont  border,  runs 
3  miles  north-north-eastward  to  the  ffith,  and  descends 
in  this  short  course  from  1400  to  400  feet  above  sea- 
level. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  15,  1864.  See  Patrick  Fraser 
Tytler's  Life  of  the  Admirable  Crichton  (1819 ;  2d  ed. 
1S23). 

Elliot  Junction,  a  station  in  Arbirlot  parish,  Forfar- 
shire, on  the  Dundee  and  Arbroath  section  of  the  Cale- 
donian, at  the  junction  of  the  branch  to  Carmyllie,  If 
mile  SW  of  Arbroath  station. 

Elliotston  Tower.     See  Castlb-Semple. 

Elliot  Water,  a  stream  of  SE  Forfarshire,  rising  at  an 
altitude  of  550  feet  above  sea-level  in  the  W  of  Carmyllie 
parish,  and  running  8  mUes  east-south-eastward  through 
or  along  the  borders  of  Carmyllie  and  Arbirlot,  tUl  it 
falls  into  the  German  Ocean,  near  Elliot  Junction,  IJ 
mUe  SW  of  Arbroath.  Its  banks,  at  the  mansion  of 
Guynd,  picturesque  by  nature,  have  been  highly  adorned 
by  art ;  and  its  steep  wooded  deU  below  Arbirlot  village 
has  many  memories  of  Dr  Guthrie,  and  presents  an 
interesting  reUc  of  the  past  in  the  grey  old  tower  of 
Kelly  Castle.— Or^;.  Sur.,  shs.  57,  49,  1868-65. 

EUishill,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Peterhead 
parish,  Aberdeenshire,  2J  mUes  WNW  of  the  town. 

EUisland,  a  small  farm  in  Dunscore  parish,  Dumfries- 
shire, on  the  right  bank  of  the  broad,  wooded  Kith,  5| 
miles  NNW  of  Dumfries  and  2i  SSE  of  Auldgirth  sta- 
tion. Extending  to  170  acres,  it  was  rented  for  £50 
a  year  by  Robert  Burns  (1759-96)  from  Whitsunday 
1788  to  December  1791,  his  landlord  being  Mr  Patrick 
Miller  of  Dalswixtox.  A  new  five-roomed  house  was 
built ;  the  farm  has  a  kiudly  soil,  its  holmland  portion 
loamy  and  rich ;  and  its  walks  by  the  river-side  com- 
mand fair  views  of  Feiars  C.a.ese,  Dalswinton,  and 
Cowhill  Tower.  So  here  Bm'ns  set  himself  to  work  the 
ground,  till  in  the  autumn  of  1789  he  was  appoiuted  a 
ganger,  with  a  salary  of  £50,  when  EUisland  was  made 
a  dairy  rather  than  an  arable  farm,"  with  from  nine  to 
twelve  cows,  three  to  five  horses  ('Pegasus'  or  'Peg 
Nicholson '  among  them),  and  several  pet  sheep.  Things 
prospered  not,  and  the  close  of  the  third  year  saw  him 
forced  to  remove  to  Dumfries  and  bid  farewell  to 
pleasant  EUisland,  '  leaving  nothing  there, '  says  Allan 
Cunningham,  '  but  a  putting-stone,  with  which  he  loved 
to  exercise  his  strength,  a  memory  of  his  musings  that 
can  never  die,  and  £300  of  his  money  sunk  beyond 

571 


ELLON 

redemption  in  a  speculation  from  which  all  had  augured 
happiness.'  Yet  was  the  EUisland  life  a  fruitful  one, 
for  the  world,  if  not  for  the  poet,  since  here  were  written 
To  Mary  m  Heaven  and  Taw.  o'  Shanter. — Ord.  Sut., 
sh.  9,  1863.  See  "WUliam  M'Dowall's  Burns  m  Dum- 
fnessUre  (Edinb.  1870). 

Ellon,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  E  Aberdeenshire.  The 
village  stands,  40  feet  above  sea-level,  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Ythan,  5  furlongs  ESE  of  Ellon  station  on  the 
Formartine  and  Buohan  section  of  the  Great  North  of 
Scotland,  this  being  19J  mUes  N  by  E  of  Aberdeen,  and 
llj  S  by  E  of  Maud  Junction.  The  ancient  seat  of 
jurisdiction  for  the  earldom  of  Buchan,  it  belonged,  in 
pre -Reformation  times,  to  Kinloss  Abbey  in  Elginshire, 
and  thence  was  often  called  Kinloss-EUon.  It  now  is  a 
thriving  centre  of  local  trade,  under  the  superiority  ef 
Mr  Gordon  of  EUon,  and  retains  the  site  of  its  ancient 
■open-air  courts  in  the  Mote  or  Earl's  HUl,  a  small 
mound  which  long  was  occupied  by  the  stables  of  the 
New  Inn,  but  which  now  is  railed  in  and  cleared  of  dis- 
.figuring  buildings.  The  Ythan  is  spanned  here  by  a 
handsome  three-arch  bridge  ;  and  the  newer  part  of  the 
village,  to  the  W  of  this  bridge,  comprises  a  number  of 
well-built  houses,  in  rows  or  detached,  ivith  pretty 
gardens,  fringing  the  water-side ;  the  older  portion,  to 
the  E,  is  much  less  regular.  Its  salubrious  climate  and 
the  Ythan's  good  trout-iishing  attract  a  fair  number  of 
summer  visitors  to  Ellon,  which  possesses  a  post  office, 
■with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  insurance,  and  railway 
lelegraph  departments,  branches  of  the  Aberdeen  Town 
and  Count}',  North  of  Scotland,  and  Union  Banks,  a  local 
savings'  bank,  12  insurance  agencies,  3  chief  inns,  gas- 
works (1827),  a  neat  town-hall  in  connection  with  the 
New  Inn,  a  brewery,  and  a  horticultui'al  society.  Cattle 
and  grain  markets  are  held  on  the  first  and  third  Mon- 
days of  every  month ;  hiring  markets  on  the  Tuesday 
after  11  April  and  the  Wednesday  after  12  November. 
The  ancient  cruciform  church  of  St  Mary,  bestowed  on 
Kinloss  in  1310,  was  superseded  in  1777  by  the  present 
;plain  parish  church,  which,  renovated  and  decorated  in 
1876,  contains  1200  sittings.  The  Free  church,  built  in 
1825  as  an  Independent  chapel,  contains  350  sittings ; 
a  U.P.  church  of  1827  contains  340 ;  and  a  fine  Epis- 
copal church,  St  Mary  of  the  Rock,  was  rebuilt  (1870) 
in  the  Early  English  style  from  designs  by  the  late  Mr 
G.  E.  Street,  R.A.,  and  consists  of  narthex,  nave,  ante- 
choir,  and  apsidal  chancel.  Mass,  too,  is  celebrated 
every  alternate  Sunday  by  a  priest  from  Strichen.  Pop. 
of  village  (1861)  823,  (1871)  811,  (1881)  964. 

The  parish  is  bounded  N  by  Old  Deer,  NE  by  Cruden, 
E,  SE,  and  S  by  Logie-Buchan,  SW  by  Udny,  W  by 
Tarves  and  the  Inverebrie  section  of  Methlick,  and  NW 
by  New  Deer.  Its  utmost  length,  from  N  to  S,  is  8| 
miles  ;  its  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  varies  between  3§  and 
■6  J  miles ;  and  its  area  is  22, 339  J  acres,  of  which  77 
are  water.  The  Ythan  has  here  an  east-south-easterly 
course  of  6J  miles,  partly  along  the  Methlick  and  Logie- 
Buchan  borders,  but  mainly  across  the  southern  in- 
terior ;  in  the  W  it  is  joined  by  Ebrib  Burn,  and  in  the 
W  by  the  Burn  of  Auchmacoy.  Coal  lighters  ascend 
-to  within  a  mile  of  the  village,  and  spring-tides  are 
-perceptible  as  high  as  the  Bridge  of  Ellon.  S  of  the 
Ythan  the  surface  attains  its  highest  point  above  sea- 
level  at  CairnhUl  (256  feet),  whilst  northwards  it  rises 
gently  to  229  feet  near  Colehill,  317  near  Mossnook,  403 
at  Hillhead  of  Argrain,  321  at  Braehead,  496  at  Ardarg, 
572  at  the  HiU  of  Dudwick,  and  530  at  Whitestone 
HOI — petty  enough  hillocks,  that  yet  command  far-away 
views  to  Bennochie  and  the  Grampians.  Gneiss  and 
.granite  are  the  prevailing  rocks,  and  the  soil  of  the  valley 
ds  mainly  fertile  alluvium  ;  elsewhere  it  is  generally 
poor,  either  black  and  moorish  or  a  very  retentive  clay. 
Thorough  draining,  however,  and  artificial  manures 
have  done  much  to  increase  its  productiveness ;  and 
more  than  three-fourths  of  the  entire  area  is  now  ,in 
tiUage.  Woods  and  plantations  cover  a  small  extent, 
the  northern  and  eastern  districts  of  the  parish  being 
bleak  and  bare.  In  the  wall  of  the  old  church  is  a 
monument  to  the  Annands  of  Auchterellon,  with  their 
672 


ELFHINSTOHE 

arms  and  the  date  1601  ;  of  Waterton,  a  stately  seat  of 
Bannermans  and  Forbeses  between  1560  and  1770,  and 
a  haunt  of  '  Jamie  Fleeman's, '  slight  vestiges  remain ; 
but  the  girls'  school  stands  on  the  site  of  the  house  in 
which  the  Rev.  John  Skinner  wrote  Tullochgorum — 
'  the  best  Scotch  song, '  said  Burns,  '  that  ever  Scotland 
saw."  Of  the  Ellon  Castle  of  1780,  built  by  the  fom-th 
Earl  of  Aberdeen,  only  one  tower  remains  ;  its  successor 
of  1851,  with  noble  avenue  and  tasteful  grounds,  is  the 
seat  now  of  George  John  Robert  Gordon,  Esq.  (b.  1812  ; 
sue.  1873),  who  holds  5556  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at 
£6195  per  annum.  Other  mansions  or  estates,  sepa- 
rately noticed,  are  Arnage,  Dudmck,  Esslemont,  and 
Turnerhall ;  and,  in  all,  8  proprietors  hold  each  an 
annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  4  of  between  £100 
and  £500,  1  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  23  of  from  £20 
to  £50.  The  seat  of  a  presbytery  in  the  synod  of  Aber- 
deen, EUon  gives  off  portions  to  the  quoad  sacra  parishes 
of  Ardallie  and  Savoch ;  the  living  is  worth  £423. 
Barfold  public,  Drumwhindle  public,  Ellon  public,  and 
EUon  girls'  schools,  with  respective  accommodation  for 
120,  100,  350,  and  47  chUdi-en,  had  (1880)  an  average 
attendance  of  61,  45,  270,  and  50,  and  grants  of  £27,  8s., 
£14,  15s.  6d.,  £221,  3s.  6d.,  and  £43,  12s.  Valuation 
(1860)  £15,183,  (1881)  £23,775,  18s.  9d.  Pop.  of  civil 
parish  (1801)  2022,  (1831)  2304,  (1861)  3913,  (1871) 
3698  ;  of  registration  district  (1871)  3036,  (1881)  3057. 
— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  87,  1876.  See  Thomas  Muir's  Records 
oftlie  Parish  of  Ellon  (Aber.  1876). 

The  presbytery  of  EUon  comprises  the  parishes  of 
EUon,  Cruden,  Foveran,  Logie-Buchan,  Methlick, 
Slains,  Tarves  and  Udny,  and  the  chapelry  of  Barthol. 
Pop.  (1871)  15,516,  (1881)  16,062,  of  whom  5282  were 
communicants  of  the  Church  of  Scotland  in  1878. — The 
Free  Chm'ch  also  has  a  presbytery  of  EUon,  with 
churches  at  EUon,  Cruden,  Foveran,  MethUck,  New 
Machar,  Old  Meldrum,  Slains,  and  Udny,  which  to- 
gether had  1971  communicants  in  ISSl. 

Ellon,  Port.    See  Poet  Ellon. 

EUridgehill  or  Elsrickle,  a  vUlage  near  the  southern 
border  of  Walston  parish,  E  Lanarkshire,  4J  mUes  NNE 
of  Biggar.  It  is  a  pleasant  place,  in  a  picturesque  situa- 
tion, and  decidedly  superior  to  most  smaU  Scottish 
viUages.  It  has  a  Free  church  and  a  schooL  Some 
stone  coffins,  a  number  of  years  ago,  were  exhumed  at 
the  E  end  of  the  village. 

Ellrig,  a  lake  in  the  NE  of  Slamannan  parish,  Stir- 
lingshire, 3J  mUes  S  of  Falkh-k.  Measuring  5\  by  IJ 
fuliongs,  it  sends  off  a  smaU  burn,  of  some  water  power, 
9  furlongs  south-westward  to  the  Avon. 

EUrig,  the  highest  part  of  the  ridge  of  upland  on  the 
mutual  border  of  East  Kilbride  parish,  Lanarkshire,  and 
Eaglesham  parish,  Renfrewshire.  It  culminates,  4  mUes 
SSE  of  Eaglesham  vUlage,  at  1230  and  1215  feet  above 
sea-level,  and  it  cradles  both  the  White  Cart  and  head- 
streams  of  Calder  Water. 

Ellwand.     See  Allen. 

EUwick  or  Elswick,  a  fine  bay  in  the  SW  of  Shapin- 
shay  island,  Orkney.  It  opens  towards  Kirkwall ;  is 
sheltered,  across  the  entrance,  by  the  green  islet  of 
EUer-Holm  ;  has  from  4  to  6  fathoms  of  water,  over 
a  bottom  of  hard  clay  covered  with  sand  ;  is  skirted,  on 
the  W  side,  by  a  fine  beach,  with  abundance  of  excellent 
fresh  water  ;  forms  almost  as  good  a  natural  harbour  as 
any  in  Orkney  ;  and  is  overlooked  by  a  pleasant  modem 
viUage. 

Elphine.     See  Assynt. 

Elphinstone,  a  collier  vUlage  in  Tranent  parish,  W 
Haddingtonshire,  2  miles  S  by  W  of  Tranent  town.  It 
has  a  public  school  and  a  Primitive  Methodist  chapel 
(1867).  Elphinstone  Tower,  5  furlongs  WSW,  is  a  square 
three-storied  pile  of  the  14th  or  15th  century,  a  ruin, 
but  well  preserved,  the  two  lower  stories  retaining  their 
stone  vaulting,  and  the  uppermost  having  been  re-roofed 
with  slate.  In  the  hall,  on  the  second  story,  eight 
carved  escutcheons  are  over  the  fireplace.  A  mansion, 
built  on  to  the  tower  in  1600,  was  demolished  in  1865. 
The  lands  of  Elphinstone  were  held  in  the  13th  and 
14th   centuries  by  Lord   Elphinstone's  ancestors,  and 


ELPHINSTONE 

paesecT  from  thorn  by  marriage  to  the  Johnstons.  On  a 
December  night  of  veliemeut  frost,  1545,  George 
Wishart  was  brought  from  Ormiston  by  the  Earl  of 
Bothwell  to  Elphinstone  Tower,  where  was  Cardinal 
Beaton ;  and  thence  he  was  taken  to  St  Andrews  for 
trial  and  execution.  Pop.  of  village  (1861)  388,  (1871) 
488,  (1881)  fi^l.—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  33,  1863. 

Elphinstone,  a  property  in  Airth  parish,  E  Stirling- 
shire. Passing  by  marriage  to  the  Tranent  Elphinstones 
about  the  beginning  of  the  14th  century,  it  has  given 
them  since  1509  the  title  of  Baron,  in  the  peerage  of 
Scotland.     See  C.vkbeeet. 

Elphinstone,  Port.    See  Port  Elphinstone. 

Elrick,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  New  Machar 
parish,  Aberdeenshire,  IJ  mile  SSW  of  New  Machar 
station. 

Elrick,  a  village  in  the  E  of  Cabrach  parish,  W  Aber- 
deenshire, 6J  miles  W  by  S  of  Rhynie. 

Elrick  or  Elrig,  Wigtownshire.     See  Eldeig. 

Elshieshields  Tower,  a  mansion  in  Lochmaben  parish, 
Dumfriesshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Water  of  Ae,  2 
miles  NNW  of  Lochmaben.  Partly  a  modern  edifice, 
partly  a  massive  old  tower,  it  is  the  seat  of  Theodore 
Edgar  Dickson  Byrne,  Esq.  (b.  1833  ;  sue.  1876),  who 
owns  823  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £963  per 
annum. 

Elsness,  a  promontory  in  Sanda  island,  Orkney. 
Projecting  1^  mile  southward  from  the  main  body  of  the 
parish,  and  ilanking  the  W  side  of  Stywick  Bay,  it 
commands  an  extensive  sea- view,  and  is  crowned  by  more 
than  twenty  vitrified  cairns,  supposed  by  Dr  Hibbert  to 
have  been  signal  stations  of  the  Norsemen  for  com- 
municating with  their  fleets. 

Elsrickle.     See  Elleidgehill. 

Elswick.     See  Ellwick. 

Elvanfoot,  an  inn  and  a  station  in  Crawford  parish, 
SE  Lanarkshire,  on  the  Caledonian  railway,  adjacent  to 
the  confluence  of  Elvan  Water  and  the  Clyde,  5^  miles 
SE  of  Abington,  and  12  NW  of  Moflat. 

Elvan  Water,  a  rivulet  of  Crawford  parish,  SE 
Lanarkshire,  rising,  as  Shortcleuch  Water,  on  Lo-wther 
Hill,  close  to  the  Dumfriesshire  border.  Thence  it 
winds  7J  miles  north-eastward  till,  just  after  passing 
beneath  a  viaduct  of  the  Caledonian  Railway,  it  falls 
into  the  Clyde  at  Elvanfoot.  It  descends  during  this 
course  from  2000  to  885  feet  above  sea-level,  and  is 
famous  for  particles  of  gold  which,  from  time  to  time, 
have  been  found  in  its  sands. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  15, 
1S64. 

Elvingston,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Gladsmuir 
parish,  Haddingtonshire,  2J  miles  SSE  of  Longniddry 
station. 

Ely.     See  Elie. 

Elziotstown.     See  Castle-Semple. 

Emanuel.     See  Manuel. 

Embo,  a  fishing  village,  with  a  public  school,  in 
Dornoch  parish,  SE  Sutherland,  2J  miles  NNE  of 
Dornoch  town. 

Endrick  Water,  a  stream  of  Stirlingshire  chiefly,  but 
partly  of  Dumbartonshire,  formed,  at  a  point  4^  miles 
SSE  of  Kippen  village,  by  the  confluence  of  Gourlays 
and  Burnfoot  Burns,  which,  rising  among  the  Gargun- 
nock  Hills  at  1480  and  1450  feet  above  sea-level,  have  a 
southerly  course  of  3J  and  2J  mDes.  Thence  it  winds 
29  miles  (only  15g  as  the  crow  flies)  westward,  till  it 
falls  into  Loch  Lomond,  towards  the  foot,  and  2f  miles 
WNW  of  Buchanan  House.  It  bounds  or  traverses  the 
parishes  of  Gargunnock,  Fintry,  Balfron,  Killearn,  KU- 
maronock,  Drymen,  and  Buchanan,  under  which  its 
chief  features — waterfalls,  villages,  and  mansions — are 
described  ;  and  it  receives  a  number  of  afiluents,  the 
largest  of  them  the  Blane.  Many  parts  of  Strathen- 
BRIOK,  or  'Sweet  Innerdale,'  are  of  great  beauty  ;  and 
Richard  Franck,  in  his  ofimit  Northern  Memoirs  (1694), 
speaks  of  '  the  memorable  Anderwick,  a  rapid  river  of 
strong  and  stiff  streams,  whose  fertile  banks  refresh  the 
borderer,  and  whose  fords,  if  well  examined,  are  argu- 
ments sufficient  to  convince  the  angler  of  trout,  as  are 
her  deeps,  when  consulted,  the  noble  race  and  treasure 


ENRICK 

of  salmon,  or  remonstrate  his  ignorance  in  the  art  of 
angling.'  The  waters  are  mostly  preserved,  and  the 
trout  are  still  fairly  plentiful,  with  a  good  many  pike, 
sea-trout  in  autumn,  and  now  and  then  a  salmon. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  39,  30,  38,  1866-71. 

Enhallow,  an  island  of  Rousay  parish,  Orkney,  in. 
the  sound  between  the  SW  side  of  Rousay  island  and 
the  Evie  district  of  Pomona.  It  measures  about  a  mUe 
in  circumference,  has  good  soil,  and  is  overlooked  by 
the  headlands  and  hiUs  of  Rousay  and  Pomona.  The 
strait  between  it  and  Rousay  is  beset  by  a  reef  of  rocks, 
covered  at  high  water,  and  very  dangerous  to  unwary 
mariners.  That  between  it  and  Pomona  bears  the  name 
of  Enhallow  Sound  ;  ofiers  but  little  width  of  fair  way 
to  vessels  ;  is  swept  by  a  rapid  tide  ;  and  ought  never 
to  be  attempted  except  in  moderate  weather,  and  with  a 
fair  wind. 

Ennerdale,  the  valley  or  basin  of  the  river  Endrick, 
in  Stirling  and  Dumbarton  shires. 

Ennerio.     See  Enrick. 

Ennerurie.    See  Inverury. 

Ennerwick.    See  Innerwick. 

Ennich  or  Eunach,  a  loch  towards  the  head  of  Glen 
Eunach,  in  the  S  of  the  Rothiemurchus  portion  of 
Duthil  parish,  E  Inverness-shire.  Lying  1700  feet 
above  sea-level,  it  has  an  utmost  length  and  breadth 
of  IJ  mile  and  2J  furlongs ;  is  overhung  by  Sgoran 
Dubh  (3658  feet)  on  the  W,  and  Braeriach  (4248)  on  the 
E  ;  and  sends  off  the  AUt  na  Beinne  Moire,  10§  miles 
northward  to  the  Spey  at  Craigellachie. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  73,  1878. 

Ennoch,  a  hamlet  of  Kirkmichael  parish,  NE  Perth- 
shire, near  the  right  bank  of  the  Blackwater,  12J  mUes 
NW  of  Blairgowrie. 

Enoch,  a  hamlet  in  Portpatrick  parish,  Wigtownshire, 
If  mile  NE  of  Portpatrick  town. 

Enoch,  a  desolate  granite-bound  loch  of  Minnigaff 
parish,  NW  Kirkcudbrightshire,  on  the  Ayrshire  bor- 
der, 5|  miles  SSW  of  the  head  of  Loch  Doon.  With  a 
very  irregular  outline,  it  is  6i  furlongs  long  and  from 
2  to  4 J  furlongs  wide,  lies  1650  feet  above  sea-level, 
contains  three  islets,  and  communicates  with  Loch  Doon 
by  Eagton  and  Gala  Lanes.  Its  waters  teem  with  fine 
red-fleshed  trout,  averaging  J  lb.  'Loch  Enoch,'  says 
Mr  Harper,  'is  the  most  apparent  rock-basin  in  the 
district,  being  situated  on  the  highest  part  of  the  granite 
plateau,  absolutely  bare,  grassless,  treeless,  and  weirdly 
wild,  every  cape,  peninsula,  and  island  showing  the 
severest  ice-action'  {Rambles  in  Galloway,  1876,  chap. 
xviii.).— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  8,  1863. 

Enoch,  a  lofty  hill  in  the  SWofNew  Cumnock  parish, 
Ayrshire,  near  the  source  of  the  Nith,  6  miles  SW  by  S 
of  New  Cumnock  village.  It  has  an  altitude  of  1865 
feet  above  sea-level. 

Enoch.    See  Ennoch. 

Enoch  (Celt,  aenacli,  'a  place  of  popular  assembly'), 
a  barony  in  Durisdeer  parish,  NW  Dumfriesshire,  be- 
tween the  Nith  and  Carron  Water,  belonging  to  the 
family  of  Menzies  from  the  beginning  of  the  14th  cen- 
tury till  1703,  when  it  was  sold  to  James,  second  Duke 
of  Queensberry,  thus  coming  in  1810  to  the  Duke  of 
Buccleuch.  Enoch  Castle  stood  on  a  peninsular  spot 
between  a  deep  ravine  and  the  Carron,  and  bore,  on  the 
lintel  of  its  gateway,  the  date  1281.  See  Dr  Craufurd 
Tait  Ramage's  Drumlanrig  Castle  and  Durisdeer  (Dum- 
fries, 1876). 

Enochdhu,  a  hamlet  of  Moulin  parish,  NE  Perthshire, 
at  the  head  of  Strath  Ardle,  10  miles  ENE  of  Pitlochrie, 
under  which  it  has  a  post  office. 

Enrick,  a  troutful  stream  of  Urquhart  parish,  N  In- 
verness-shire, issuing  from  Lochnan  Eun  (5x2  furl.  ; 
1650  feet)  in  a  detached  portion  of  Eiltarlity.  Thence 
it  winds  llj  mUes  north-north-eastward  and  eastward 
to  Loch  Meiklie  (9x3  furl.  ;  372  feet),  and  thence  6 
mUes  eastward  along  wooded  Glen  Ubquhart,  till  at 
Urquhart  Bay,  near  Drumnadrocbit,  it  falls  into  Loch 
Ness  (48  feet).  In  its  upper  course  it  makes  a  very 
picturesque  cascade,  called  Moral  Fall,  near  which  is  a 
tarfe  cave,  where  some  leading  Jacobites  found  tem- 

573 


ENSAY 

porary  concealment  after  tne  battle  of  Culloden. — Ord. 
Sitr.,  sh.  73,  1878. 

Ensay,  an  islet  of  Harris  parish,  Outer  Hebrides, 
Inverness-sliire.  Lying  2  miles  SW  of  the  main  body 
of  Harris,  it  measures  5  mUes  in  circumference,  and  is 
all  verdant  and  partly  cultivated. 

Enterkln,  a  troutful  burn  in  Durisdeer  parish,  NW 
Dumfriesshire,  rising,  close  to  the  Lanarkshire  border,  on 
the  western  slope  of  Lowther  HlU  (2377  feet),  at  an  alti- 
tude of  2000  feet  above  sea-level,  and  2|  miles  S  of  Lead- 
hiUs.  Thence  it  runs  5|  mUes  south-south-westward, 
till  at  Enterkinfoot  (280  feet),  midway  between  Sanquhar 
and  Thornhill,  it  falls  into  the  Nith.  It  is  followed 
along  all  its  course  by  the  old  Leadhill  bridle-path  from 
Clydesdale  into  Nithsdale,  that  famous  Enterkin  Pass, 
of  which  the  author  of  Mab  and  his  Friends  has  written  : 
'A  few  steps  and  you  are  on  its  edge,  looking  do'wn 
giddy  and  amazed  into  its  sudden  and  immense  depths. 
We  have  seen  many  of  our  most  remarkable  glens  and 
mountain  gorges — Glencroe  and  Glencoe ;  Glen  Nevis 
(the  noblest  of  them  all) ;  the  Sma'  Glen,  Wordsworth's 
Glen  Almain  (Glenalmond),  where  Ossian  sleeps ;  the 
lower  part  of  Glen  Lyon  ;  and  many  others  of  all  kinds 
of  sublimity  and  beauty — but  we  know  nothing  more 
noticeable,  more  unlike  any  other  place,  more  impres- 
sive, than  this  short,  deep,  narrow,  and  sudden  glen. 
There  is  only  room  for  its  own  stream  at  the  bottom, 
and  the  sides  rise  in  one  smooth  and  aU  but  perpen- 
dicular ascent  to  the  height,  on  the  left,  of  1895  feet  in 
Thii-staue  Hill,  and,  on  the  right,  of  1875  feet  in  the 
exquisitely  moulded  Stey  Gail,  or  Steep  Gable,  so  steep 
that  it  is  no  easy  matter  keeping  your  feet,  and  if  you 
slip  you  might  just  as  well  go  over  a  bona  fide  mural 
precipice.  "Commodore  Rogers"  would  feel  quite  at 
home  here  ;  we  all  know  his  merits — 

■"  Commodore  Rogers  was  a  man— exceedingly  brave — particular ; 
He  climbed  up  very  high  rocks — exceedingly  high — perpendi- 
cular ; 
And  what  made  this  more  inexpressible. 
These  same  rocks  were  quite  inaccessible." ' 

Defoe,  in  his  Memoirs  of  the  Church  of  Scotland,  gives  a 
vivid  description  of  the  rescue  here  by  twelve  country- 
men of  a  minister  and  five  other  Covenanters  whom  a 
company  of  dragoons  was  taking  prisoners  to  Edin- 
burgh, July  or  August  1684.  The  fall  of  their  com- 
manding officer,  shot  through  the  head,  so  daunted  the 
soldiers  that  without  striking  a  blow — after  firing  one 
volley,  however,  according  to  Wodrow — they  yielded 
their  prisoners  to  the  rescuing  party,  whose  leaders  were 
James  and  Thomas  Harkness,  of  Looherben,  in  Close- 
burn.— Orrf.  Sur.,  sh.  15,  1864.  See  Dr  Craufurd  Tait 
Ramage's  Drumlanrig  Castle  and  Durisdeer  (Dumf 
1876),  and  Dr  John  Brown's  John  Leech  and  other  Papers 
(Edinb.  1882). 

Enterkine,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Tarbolton 
parish,  Ayrshire,  near  the  right  bank  of  the  river  Ayr, 
2|  miles  S  by  W  of  Tarbolton  town. 

Enterkinfoot,  a  hamlet  in  Durisdeer  parish,  Dum- 
friesshire, at  the  foot  of  Enterkin  Burn,  6  miles  NNW 
of  Thornhill. 

Enterkins-Yett,  a  place  in  Currie  parish,  Edinburgh- 
shire, traditionally  said  to  have  been  the  scene  of  a 
sanguinary  battle  between  the  ancient  Caledonians  and 
an  invading  force  of  Scandinavians. 

Enzie,  a  hamlet,  a  qvA)ad  sacra  parish,  and  a  district 
in  the  NW  of  Banffshire.  The  hamlet  lies  3J  miles 
ENE  of  Fochabers,  under  which  it  has  a  post  office. 
The  quoad  sacra  parish,  containing  also  the  village  of 
Port  Gordon,  comprises  the  eastern  part  of  Bellie  parish 
and  the  western  part  of  Rathven.  It  is  in  the  presby- 
tery of  Fordyce  and  synod  of  Aberdeen  ;  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £120.  The  parochial  church  was  built  in 
1785,  and,  as  enlarged  in  1815  and  1822,  contains  400 
sittings.  There  is  also  a  Free  church  ;  and  two  public 
schools,  Enzie  and  Port  Gordon,  with  respective  accom- 
modation for  170  and  236  children,  had  (1880)  an  average 
attendance  of  112  and  171,  and  grants  of  £100,  17s. 
and  £115,  2s.  The  district  extends  from  the  river  Spey 
574 


EBICHT 

to  Buckie  Bum,  but  is  popularly  regarded  as  comprising 
all  Bellie  and  Rathven  parishes.  Pop.  of  quoad  sacra 
parish  (1871)  2251,  (1881)  2413.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  95, 
1876. 

Eorradail,  a  headland  in  Barvas  parish,  Lswis,  Outer 
Hebrides,  Ross-shire,  2i  miles  SE  of  the  Butt  of  Lewis. 

Eorsa,  a  small  island  of  Kilfinichen  and  Kilvickeon 
parish,  Argyllshire,  on  the  W  side  of  Mull,  in  Loch- 
na-Keal,  2  miles  NE  of  Inch  Kenneth.  It  belonged 
anciently  to  the  Abbey  of  lona,  and  is  now  the  pro- 
perty of  the  Duke  of  Argyll.  It  was  described  in  1549, 
by  Dean  Munro,  as  '  fertile  and  full  of  corn, '  but  now  is 
used  only  for  sheep  pasture. 

Eousruil,  a  rocky  islet  on  the  W  side  of  North  Uist, 
in  the  Outer  Hebrides.  It  measures  -^  mUe  in  circuit, 
and  is  notable  as  a  place  for  capturing  seals. 

Eoy,  an  islet  of  the  Outer  Hebrides,  between  Barra 
and  South  Uist. 

Erchless  Castle,  a  mansion  in  KiltarHty  parish,  In- 
verness-shire, near  the  left  bank  of  the  Beauly,  5  fur- 
longs N  of  the  confluence  of  the  Glass  and  the  Farrar, 
and  10  mUes  WSW  of  Beauly  town.  A  modernised, 
yet  still  a  stately  old  pile,  lofty  and  narrow,  it  stands 
in  a  fine  park,  completely  encircled  by  wooded  hills. 
From  the  15th  century  onwards  it  has  been  the  seat 
of  the  Chisholms,  one  of  whom  vaunted  that  in  aU 
the  world  there  were  but  three  entitled  to  the  designa- 
tion '  The ' — the  Pope,  the  King,  and  the  Chisholm. 
They  were  zealous  Jacobites,  garrisoning  their  castle 
after  Killiecrankie,  and  fighting  at  Sheriffmuir  and 
Culloden.  The  Chisholm  of  to-day,  James  Sutherland 
Chisholm  (b.  1806  ;  sue.  1859),  holds  94,328  acres  in 
the  shire,  valued  at  £6566  per  annum. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
83,  1881. 

Ercildoun.    See  Earlston. 

Eredine,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Kilchrenan  and 
Dalavich  parish,  Argyllshire,  near  the  head  of  Loch 
Awe,  10  miles  N  by  W  of  Lochgilphead. 

Eriboll,  a  sea-loch  in  Durness  parish,  N  Sutherland, 
opening  from  the  sea  between  Whiten  Head  and  Rispond 
Point,  and  peneti-ating  lOJ  miles  south-south-westward. 
Its  breadth  varies  between  5  furlongs  and  2J  miles ;  it 
forms,  over  much  of  its  expanse,  particularly  at  Camas- 
an-Duin  Bay,  7  miles  from  its  entrance,  one  of  the 
finest  natural  harbours  in  the  world,  with  depth  ranging 
from  15  to  60  fathoms  ;  and  just  to  the  N  of  that  bay 
it  is  crossed  by  Heilem  ferry.  Its  eastern  shore,  for  4 
mUes  southward  from  Whiten  Head,  presents  a  series  of 
caves  and  arches,  pronounced  by  Dr  MaccuUoch  '  the 
most  extensive  and  extraordinary  on  any  part  of  the 
Scottish  coast ; '  and  its  upper  part  is  overhung  by 
magnificent  alpine  summits — Ben  Hope  (3040  feet)  on  the 
E,  and  Crann  Stacach  (2630)  on  the  'W.—Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
114,  1880. 

Erichdie  Water,  a  stream  of  Blair  Athole  parish,  N 
Perthshire,  formed,  at  a  point  4 J  miles  N  by  E  of  Kin- 
loch  Rannoch,  by  the  confluence  of  the  AUt  Sleibh  and 
the  Allt  na  Feith  Reidhe,  which,  rising  at  altitudes  of 
1550  and  1600  feet  above  sea-level,  have  an  east-south- 
easterly and  an  east-north-easterly  course  of  3J  and  5 
miles.  The  Erichdie  itself  runs  10|  miles  east-by- 
northward,  past  Trinafour  and  Auchleeks,  along  a  wild 
glen,  called  from  it  Glen  Erichdie ;  and  falls  into  the 
Garry  at  Struan,  4  miles  W  of  Blair  Athole  village.  It 
is  joined,  IJ  mile  above  Tiinafour  inn,  by  the  Allt 
Choin,  running  IJ  mile  south-eastward  from  Loch  Choin 
(7i  X  1  furl.  ;  1360  feet),  and  sometimes  regarded  as  its 
parent  stream. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  55,  1869. 

Ericht,  a  river  of  NE  Perthshire,  formed  near  Strone 
House  by  the  confluence  of  the  Airdle  and  the  Black- 
water,  and  winding  10  miles  south-eastward,  mainly 
along  the  boundary  between  Blairgowrie  and  Rattray 
parishes,  partly  across  Bendochy,  till  it  falls  into  the 
Isla,  2J  miles  NNE  of  Coupar-Angus.  Dming  this 
course  the  'ii'eful'  Ericht  descends  from  490  to  115  feet 
above  sea-level ;  its  bed  is  rocky,  its  current  rapid  and 
turbulent ;  and  the  scenery  on  its  banks  in  many  parts, 
particularly  at  Craighall  and  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Blairgowrie  town,  is  singularly  romantic.     A  splendid 


ERICHT 


ERROL 


salmon  stream  before  its  waters  were  befouled  by  the 
works  of  Blairgowrie,  it  still  contains  a  good  abundance 
of  trout,  running  from  J  lb.  to  2  or  even  3  lbs. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  56,  1870. 

Ericht,  a  loch  on  the  mutual  border  of  Perth  and 
Inverness  shires,  and  a  stream  of  Fortingall  parish, 
Perthshu-e.  The  loch,  beginning  1  mile  SW  of  Dal- 
whinnie  station,  extends  14  j  miles  south-south-westward; 
forms,  for  5  miles,  the  boundary  between  the  two 
counties ;  has  a  varying  width  of  J  mUe  and  9  furlongs ; 
and  lies  among  the  central  Grampians  at  an  elevation  of 
1153  feet  above  sea-leveL  Overhung  on  its  W  side  by 
the  precipitous  mountain-range  of  Ben  Alder  (3757 
feet),  on  its  £  by  Ben  Udlajian  (3306),  it  presents  an 
aspect  of  wild  desolation  and  solemn  grandeur,  having 
nowhere  on  its  shores  any  other  signs  of  human  habita- 
tion than  a  couple  of  shooting  lodges  and  a  shepherd's 
hut.  The  fishing  is  capital,  the  salmo-ferox  running  up 
to  20  and  25  lbs. ,  whilst  the  trout,  though  rather  shy, 
are  very  plentiful.  The  stream,  issuing  from  the  foot  of 
the  loch,  runs  5f  miles  south-south-eastward  to  Loch 
Eannoch  (668  feet),  at  a  point  7  furlongs  from  that  loch's 
head ;  flows,  for  the  first  mile  or  two,  in  slow,  deep 
current ;  and  is  afterwards  a  sheer  torrent,  lashing  and 
tearing  its  banks  with  wild  fury. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  63, 
54,  1873. 

Eriokstartebrae,  a  hill  (1566  feet)  contiguous  to  the 
meeting-point  of  Dumfries,  Peebles,  and  Lanark  shires, 
overhanging  the  high  road  from  Dumfiies  to  Edinburgh 
at  a  point  5  miles  NNW  of  Moffat,  and  terminating  at 
the  road's  side  in  an  immense  hollow,  noticed  in  our 
article  Annandalb's  Beef  Stand. 

Erigmore.     See  Biknam. 

Erins,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  South  Enapdale 
parish,  Argyllshu'e,  on  the  W  shore  of  Loch  Fyne,  5 
miles  N  by  W  of  Tarbert. 

Erisa,  a  loch  in  the  NW  of  Mull,  Argyllshire,  com- 
mencing at  a  point  4  miles  WSW  of  Tobermory.  It 
extends  5  miles  south-eastward,  has  a  width  of  |  mile, 
contains  salmon,  grUse,  and  trout  in  abundance,  and 
sends  off  a  streamlet  4  miles  east-south-eastward  to  the 
Sound  of  Mull  at  Aros  Castle. 

Erisay,  a  small  island  of  the  Outer  Hebrides,  Inver- 
ness-shire, between  North  Uist  and  Harris. 

Eriska,  a  small  inhabited  island  of  Ardchattan  parish, 
Argyllshire,  in  the  mouth  of  Loch  Creran,  3  fuiiongs  W 
•of  Shian  ferry.  With  utmost  length  and  breadth  of  IJ 
mile  and  5  fm-longs,  it  rises  to  a  height  of  155  feet,  and 
is  severed  from  the  mainland  by  a  strait  little  more  than 
100  yards  wide  at  the  narrowest,  and  dry  at  low  tide. 
It  presents  a  beautiful  appearance,  being  variously  wooded, 
pastoral,  and  arable ;  and  forms  a  pleasant  farm.  — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  45,  1876. 

Eriska  (Norse  Eiriksey),  an  island  of  South  Uist  parish. 
Outer  Hebrides,  Inverness-shire,  separated  by  a  channel 
2  miles  wide  from  the  S  end  of  South  Uist  island.  It 
measures  3  mUes  in  length  from  N  to  S,  and  IJ  mile  in 
breadth ;  and  it  is  notable  for  having  been  the  place 
where  Prince  Charles  Edward  first  set  foot  on  the  king- 
■dom  of  his  ancestors,  23  July  1745.  He  landed  with  his 
attendants  from  the  DoutclU,  and  passed  the  night  in 
the  house  of  the  tacksman,  Angus  Macdonald — an  un- 
comfortable night  enough,  since  the  beds  were  few,  and 
the  Prince  resigned  his  to  Sir  Thomas  Sheridan,  whilst 
the  smoke  from  the  chimneyless  fire  obliged  him  ever 
and  anon  to  go  out  into  the  fresh  air.  '  What  a  plague  is 
the  matter  with  that  fellow,'  asked  honest  Angus,  'that 
he  can  neither  sit  nor  stand  stDl,  and  neither  keep  within 
nor  without  doors  ? '  The  channel  between  Eriska  and 
South  Uist  is  used  as  a  boat  harbour  for  the  export  of 
local  produce.  Pop.  (1841)  SO,  (1861)  396,  (1871)  429, 
<1881)  466. 

Erlsort,  a  long,  narrow  sea-loch  Ln  Lochs  parish,  Lewis, 
Outer  Hebrides,  Eoss-shire.  Opening  from  the  Minch 
at  a  point  7  miles  S  of  Stomoway,  it  penetrates  10  mUes 
west-south-westward  to  within  If  mile  of  the  upper  part 
of  Loch  Seaforth ;  is  1|  mile  wide  at  the  entrance,  but 
onl;^  from  2  to  7  furlongs  in  its  upper  reaches ;  and  con- 
tains, in  its  mouth,  fifteen  hilly  islets  (the  Barkin  Isles) 


and  many  excellent  anchorages  for  ships  of  any  size. 
One  of  its  islets,  called  Tanneray,  contains  a  remarkable 
cave ;  on  another,  EUan  CoUumkiU  (1  x  J  mile),  the 
largest  of  the  group,  stood  a  chapel  dedicated  to  St 
Columba.— 0)U  Sur.,  sh.  99,  1868. 

Ermit.     See  Ar.MiT. 

Ernan  Water,  a  rivulet  in  the  Edinglassie  section  of 
Tarland  parish,  W  Aberdeenshire,  rising  close  to  the 
boundary  with  Banffshire,  and  running  7i  miles  east- 
south-eastward,  till  it  faUs  into  the  Don  at  Inverernan, 
after  a  total  descent  of  1300  feet. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  75, 
1876. 

Erncrogo,  a  small  loch  near  the  centre  of  Crossmichael 
parish,  Kirkcudbrightshire.  Lying  380  feet  above  sea- 
level,. it  has  an  utmost  length  and  breadth  of  3  by  IJ 
furlongs,  and  contains  two  islets,  which  formerly  were 
frequented  by  sea-gulls.  A  streamlet,  flowing  from  it 
to  the  Dee,  drives  a  meal  mill  that  serves  for  nearly  all 
the  parish  ;  otherwise  the  loch  might  be  advantageously 
drained. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  5,  1857. 

Erne.    See  Eaen. 

Erochd.    See  Ericht. 

ErriboU.    See  Eriboll. 

Errickstanebrae.    See  Eeiokstanebrab. 

Errol,  a  village  and  parish  in  the  Carse  of  Gowrie, 
Perthshire.  The  village  stands  5  furlongs  from  the  Tay's 
N  bank,  and  IJ  mile  S  of  Errol  station  on  the  Dundee 
and  Perth  section  of  the  Caledonian,  which  station  is 
lOJ  mDes  WSW  of  Dundee  and  llj  E  of  Perth,  and 
near  which  is  Errol  post  ofl&ce,  with  money  order,  sav- 
ings' bank,  insurance,  and  raUway  telegraph  departments. 
Crowning  a  gentle  eminence  that  commands  a  delightful 
view,  particularly  towards  the  S  and  W,  it  is  under  the 
superiority  of  Mrs  Molison ;  serves  as  a  business  centre 
for  much  of  the  Carse  district ;  is  inhabited  mainly  by 
weavers  and  operatives ;  and  has  a  post  office  of  its  own 
under  Errol,  a  branch  of  the  Union  Bank,  2  chief  inns, 
gas-works,  2  schools,  a  reading-room  and  library,  and  fairs 
on  the  last  Wednesday  of  July  and  the  Saturday  after 
the  first  Friday  of  October.  The  parish  church,  built 
in  1831  after  designs  by  Gillespie  Graham,  is  a  cruci- 
form Norman  structure,  with  a  conspicuous  square  tower, 
and  contains  1450  sittings.  There  are  also  a  Free  church 
and  a  U.P.  ehm'ch,  the  latter  containing  751  sittings. 
Pop.  (1841)  1147,  (1861)  1086,  (1871)  918,  (1881)  890. 

"The  parish,  containing  also  the  village  of  Leeto^vn,  is 
bounded  N  by  Kinnaird,  NE  by  Inchture,  SE  and  S  by 
the  Firth  of  Tay,  W  by  St  Madoes  and  Kinfaims,  and 
NW  by  KUspindie.  Its  utmost  length,  from  ENE  to 
WSW,  is  6  mUes ;  its  breadth  varies  between  If  and  3 J 
miles  ;  and  its  area  is  11,754  acres,  of  which  2229  are 
foreshore  and  17|  water.  The  shore  is  everywhere  flat, 
nowhere  exceeding  20  feet  above  high  water  mark ;  and 
the  eastern  interior,  to  the  extent  of  half  of  the  entire 
area,  is  all  but  a  dead  level — its  highest  point  Middle- 
bank  (89  feet).  The  western  district  is  more  diversified, 
having  several  low  ridges  extending  nearly  parallel  with 
the  Tay,  and  attaining,  near  Mains  of  Errol,  a  summit 
altitude  of  156  feet.  Three  or  four  very  sluggish  stream- 
lets, locally  called  pows,  rise  near  or  beyond  the  north- 
ern and  north-western  boundaries,  and,  winding  through 
the  interior,  carry  the  drainage  to  the  Firth  of  Tay. 
FossUiferons  sandstone  and  limestone  are  the  predomi- 
ijant  rocks.  The  sandstone  is  a  good  building  material, 
and  has  been  largely  quarried  at  Clashbennie ;  whilst  the 
limestone,  though  coarse,  was  formerly  worked  at  Murie. 
The  soil  throughout  the  flat  tracts  is  carse  clay  or  strong 
argillaceous  loam,  on  the  ridges  is  blackish  earth,  and, 
as  a  whole,  is  singularly  fertile.  Scarcely  a  rood  of  land 
is  waste ;  little  more  than  200  acres  are  under  wood, 
including  hedgerows ;  and  the  rest  of  the  land  is  so 
richly  cultivated  and  so  beautifully  enclosed  as  well  to 
compensate  by  its  luxuriance  of  aspect  for  any  absence 
of  the  picturesque.  Two  standing  stones  are  at  Clash- 
bennie and  near  Inchmartin ;  an  ancient  artificial  mound, 
the  Law-EnoU,  rises  in  Murie  Park  ;  and  at  West-town 
is  a  small  ruined  pre-Eeformation  chapel.  Considerable 
commerce,  both  in  export  and  in  import,  is  done  at  the 
little  harbour  of  Port  AUen.     The  lands  of  Errol  were 

575 


EBSKINE 

granted  by  "William  the  Lyon  (1166-1214)  to  Us  butler, 
AVilliam  de  Haya,  whose  descendants,  the  Hays,  obtained 
the  hereditary  high  eonstableship  of  Scotland  in  1315, 
and  the  earldom  of  Errol  in  1452.  (See  Lttncakty  and 
Slains.)  By  them  the  estate  was  sold  in  1634,  and, 
after  passing  through  a  number  of  hands,  it  was  pur- 
chased in  1872  by  the  late  Francis  Molison,  Esq.,  who, 
at  great  cost,  had  restored  the  old  mansion,  a  three- 
storied  quadrangular  pile,  100  by  80  feet,  with  courtyard 
in  the  centre,  when,  upon  10  Oct.  1874,  it  was  reduced 
by  fire  to  a  mere  shell,  the  damage  being  estimated  at 
£9000.  Since  then  rebuilt,  Errol  House  is  now  the  seat 
of  his  widow,  Mrs  Molison,  who  holds  2135  acres  in  the 
shire,  valued  at  £7039  per  annum.  Other  mansions, 
separately  noticed,  are,  Murie  House,  Megginch  Castle, 
and  Gourdiehill;  and,  in  all,  10  proprietors  hold  each  an 
annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  8  of  between  £100  and 
£500,  7  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  13  of  from  £20  to  £50. 
Errol  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Perth  and  the  synod  of 
Perth  and  Stirling;  the  living  is  worth  £397.  Pitrodie 
U.  P.  church,  on  the  N"W  border,  2J  miles  NW  of  the 
village,  contains  320  sittings ;  and  Errol  public,  Glen- 
doick  public,  and  Errol  female  industrial  schools,  with 
respective  accommodation  for  224,  130,  and  147  children, 
had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  157,  130,  and  147, 
and  grants  of  £112,  4s.,  £66,  4s.,  and  £70,  2s.  Valua- 
tion (1860)  £20,089,  5s.  6d.,  (1882)  £22,570,  14s.  lid. 
Pop.  (ISOl)  2653,  (1831)  2992,  (1861)  2759,  (1871)  2504, 
(1881)  2421.— Ore?.  Sur.,  sh.  48,  1868. 

Erskine  (13th  century  IrscJien),  a  parish  on  the 
northern  border  of  Renfrewshire,  containing  the  post 
oifice,  village,  and  railway  station  of  Bishopton,  5  miles 
NNW  of  Paisley.  It  is  bounded  N  and  NE  by  the  river 
Clyde,  E  by  Inchinnan,  S  by  Houston,  and  SW  and  W 
by  Kilmalcolm.  Its  utmost  length,  from  E  to  W,  is  7 
miles  ;  its  breadth,  from  N  to  S,  varies  between  1|  and 
3J  miles ;  and  its  area  is  9092-J  acres,  of  which  1189 
are  foreshore  and  368  water.  The  Clyde,  a  stately  sea 
river,  sweeping  6-|  miles  west-north-westward,  here 
widens  from  1  furlong  to  1|  mile,  and  here  is  crossed 
by  Erskine  and  West  Ferries,  the  former  just  above  Old 
Kilpatrick  village,  with  quays  so  as  to  serve  for  horses 
and  carriages  as  weU  as  for  foot  passengers  ;  the  latter 
opposite  l3umbarton  Castle.  The  Renfrewshire  shore 
is  much  of  it  low  and  flat,  and  throughout  all  the  eastern 
interior  the  surface  nowhere  exceeds  150  feet  above  sea- 
level.  The  western  division  is  hillier,  attaining  317  feet 
near  Netherston,  600  at  Barscube,  583  at  GallahOl,  626 
near  Bogside,  and  611  near  Langside — heights  that  com- 
mand magnificent  views  along  the  Clyde,  up  Gare  Loch 
and  Loch  Long,  and  away  to  the  Grampians.  Dargavel 
Burn  traces  most  of  the  southern  boundary,  and  several 
short  burns  rise  in  the  interior,  and  run  to  the  Clyde  ; 
whilst  springs  of  excellent  water  are  everywhere  plentiful. 
The  rocks  of  the  E  are  chiefly  carboniferous,  and  those 
of  the  W  eruptive.  Minerals  of  the  zeolitic  family 
abound  in  the  latter ;  aud  fine  specimens  have  been 
found  of  mesotype  and  amethystine  quartz.  Sandstone, 
for  building  purposes,  has  been  worked  in  three  quarries ; 
and  trap  rock,  for  road  metal,  in  several  places.  The 
soil  is  mainly  either  a  light  ft'iable  retentive  earth,  with 
tiUy  subsoil,  or  a  sharp  dry  earth,  incumbent  upon 
trap.  Nearly  a  twelfth  of  the  entire  area  is  under 
wood ;  about  a  fifth  is  pastoral,  mossy,  or  waste ;  and 
all  the  rest  is  arable.  In  1226  the  barony  of  Erskine 
was  held  by  one  Henry  de  Erskine,  of  whose  descendants 
the  fifth  had  a  grant  of  Alloa,  the  twelfth  was  created 
Earl  of  Mak,  and  by  the  fourteenth  this  property  was 
sold  in  1638  to  Sir  John  Hamilton  of  Orbiston.  From 
the  Hamiltons  it  was  purchased  in  1703  by  the  noble 
famOy  of  Blantyke,  and  it  now  belongs  to  Charles 
Stuart,  twelfth  Baron  Blantyre  (b.  1818  ;  sue.  1830), 
who  owns  4449  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £9016 
per  annum.  The  present  mansion  stands  on  a  rising- 
ground  above  the  Clyde,  f  mile  WNW  of  Erskine 
ferry,  and  2  miles  NNE  of  Bishopton.  Built  in  1828 
after  designs  by  Sir  Robert  Smirke,  it  is  a  splendid 
Tudor  edifice,  and  commands  a  view  as  varied  as  it  is 
beautiful.  One  feature  in  the  finely-wooded  park  is  an 
576 


ESS 

obelisk,  80  feet  high,  erected  to  the  memory  of  Robert, 
eleventh  Lord  Blantyre  (1777-1830),  who,  after  serving 
through  the  Peninsular  campaign,  was  killed  by  a  stray 
bullet  during  the  Brussels  insurrection.  Dargavel  has 
been  separately  noticed,  as  also  has  Bargarran  of  witch- 
craft fame.  The  Rev.  Walter  Young,  D.D.,  F.R.S., 
and  the  Rev.  Andrew  Stewart,  M.D.,  the  former  famoua 
as  a  musician,  the  latter  distinguished  for  great  skill  in 
pulmonary  complaints,  were  ministers  of  Erskine,  the 
one  tin  1814,  the  other  till  1839.  Seven  proprietors^ 
hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  5  of 
between  £100  and  £500,  9  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  22 
of  from  £20  to  £50.  Erskine  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Greenock  and  S3Tiod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr  ;  the  living  is 
worth  £387.  The  parish  church,  IJ  mile  NNE  of 
Bishopton,  was  buUt  in  1813,  and  is  a  handsome  Gothic 
edifice,  containing  500  sittings.  At  Langbank  there 
is  a  quoad  sacra  church,  at  Bishopton  a  Free  church ;. 
and  two  public  schools,  Erskine  and  Undercraig,  with 
respective  accommodation  for  245  and  113  children,  had 
(1880)  an  average  attendance  of  137  and  54,  and  grants 
of  £108,  9s.  6d.  and  £53s.  6s.  Valuation  (1860> 
£12,048,  (1882)  £20,098,  19s.  6d.  Pop.  (1801)  847,. 
(1831)  973,  (1861)  1457,  (1871)  1565,  (1881)  1653.— 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  30,  1866. 

Esk  (Cymric  wysg,  Gael,  uisge,  '  water '),  a  river  of  E 
Dumfriesshire,  formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  Black 
and  White  Esks,  the  former  of  which  rises  in  the  W  of 
Eskdalemuir  parish,  on  the  NE  slope  of  Jocks  Shoulder, 
at  an  altitude  of  1600  feet,  and  thence  runs  12J  miles- 
south-south-eastward,  whilst  the  White  Esk,  springing, 
from  the  NE  acclivity  (2000  feet)  of  Ettrick  Pen,  in  the 
N  of  the  same  parish,  runs  14J  miles  south-by-eastward, 
on  the  way  being  joined  by  Gaewald  Water,  Moodlaw 
and  Rae  Burns,  and  a  number  of  lesser  tributaries. 
They  unite,  490  feet  above  sea-level,  at  the  SE  comer 
of  Eskdalemuir ;  and  from  this  point  the  Esk  winds 
22J  miles  soutli -eastward,  and  south-south-eastward 
through  Westerkirk,  Langholm,  and  Canonbie  parishes, 
then  for  5  furlongs  flows  south-south-westward  along 
the  English  Border,  and  finally  passes  off  into  Cumber- 
land on  its  way,  past  Longtown,  to  the  head  of  the 
Solway  Firth.  Its  principal  affluents,  during  its 
Scottish  course,  are  Megget  Water,  Wauchope  Water, 
Ewes  Water,  Tarras  Water,  and  Liddel  Water,  all 
under  charge  of  the  Esk  and  Liddel  Fisheries  Associa- 
tion, and  all,  like  itself,  affording  capital  sport.  The 
salmon  disease,  however,  has  wrought  great  havoc  here, 
for,  according  to  a  table  prepared  by  the  Chief  Con- 
stable of  Dumfriesshire,  between  1  Jan.  1881  and  31 
March  1882,  422  salmon,  3  sea-trout,  3  herling,  5  parr, 
and  1  yellow  trout  were  found  dead  in  the  Esk  and  its- 
tributaries,  besides  196  salmon  and  1  herling  that  were 
destroyed  as  being  affected  by  disease.  Its  memories, 
its  geology,  and  its  scenery — heathery  uplands  in  its- 
higher  reaches,  and  wooded  luxuriant  haughs  after  it 
passes  Langholm — are  noticed  under  Eskdale,  Dum- 
friesshire, and  the  parishes  that  it  traverses. — Ord. 
Sur.,  shs.  16,  10,  11,  1864-63. 

Esk,  a  river  iiowing  through  Midlothian  into  the 
Firth  of  Forth  at  Musselburgh.  It  is  composed  of  the 
Korth  and  South  Esks,  which  unite  7  furlongs  below 
Dalkeith  Palace.  The  North  Esk  rises  in  the  parish  ot 
Linton,  Peeblesshire,  at  Boarstone  and  Easter  Cairn- 
hiU,  and,  after  a  brief  course  through  barren  moorland 
districts,  touches  the  boundary  of  Midlothian.  This 
boundary  it  foUows  for  2J  miles,  and  receives  the  Carlops 
Burn  and  some  other  small  tributaries.  It  proceeds  in 
a  north-easterly  direction  through  or  along  the  borders 
of  the  parishes  of  Penicuik,  Lasswade,  Glencorse,  Cock- 
pen,  and  Dalkeith  ;  and  in  its  upper  course,  near  Carlops, 
passes  through  'Habbie's  Howe,'  the  scene  described 
in  Allan  Ramsay's  Gentle  Shepherd.  The  most  notable 
portion  of  the  valley  of  the  North  Esk  is  where  it  flows 
through  RosLiN  Glen  and  Hawthoenden,  presenting 
here  a  scene  of  striking  beauty,  which  is  visited  by  thou- 
sands of  strangers,  attracted  not  less  by  the  picturesque 
elements  of  the  scene  than  by  the  literary  and  historic 
recollections  of  the  spot.    Below  Lasswade  the  North  Esk 


ESKADALE 

traverses  the  magnificent  pleasure-grounds  of  Melville 
Castle,  and  afterwards  enters  the  policies  of  Dalkeith 
Palace,  joining  with  the  South  Esk,  after  a  north-easterly 
com-se  of  17  miles,  at  a  scene  of  great  sylvan  beauty. 
The  basin  of  the  North  Esk  abounds  in  valuable  minerals 
of  the  Carboniferous  formation,  while  from  Penicuik  to 
Lasswade  the  abundance  of  tine  springs  has  made  its 
banks  the  seat  of  prosperous  paper  manufactures.  Mr 
"Watson  Lyall,  in  his  Sporiman's  Guide,  says: — 'Wliile 
in  a  scenic  point  of  view  the  North  Esk  is  famous,  in  a 
piscatorial  sense  it  is,  we  are  glad  to  say,  a  gi-eat  deal 
better  than  it  was,  owing  to  the  enterprise  and  judgment 
of  the  proprietors,  which  is  all  the  more  praiseworthy, 
as  their  exertions  were  attended  with  great  expense. 
The  refuse  of  all  the  paper-mills,  etc. ,  on  its  banks  used 
to  be  thrown  into  it,  making  it  utterly  worthless,  but 
a  great  improvement  has  been  wrought.'  The  South 
Esk  rises,  at  an  altitude  of  1700  feet,  on  the  western 
slope  of  Blaokhope  Soar  (2136  feet),  in  the  southern 
extremity  of  Temple  parish ;  and  thence  winds  19 
miles  north-by-eastward  through  or  along  the  borders 
of  Temple,  Borthwick,  Carrington,  Cockpen,  Newbattle, 
and  Dalkeith.  This  stream  receives  a  number  of  tribu- 
taries, including  the  FuUarton  or  Redside  Burn,  Gore 
Water,  and  Dalhousie  Burn,  all  of  which  yield  trout  of  a 
small  size,  which  are  eagerly  sought  for,  the  waters  being 
mostly  free.  The  village  of  Temple  is  quiet  and  remote, 
but  is  notable  for  its  old  church,  once  the  seat  of  a  body 
of  Eed  Friars  or  Templars,  established  by  David  I. ,  and 
at  one  time  endowed  with  large  possessions ;  lower  down, 
the  stream  ilows  past  Dalhousie  Castle,  surrounded  by 
pictui'esque  groimds,  in  which  the  river  forms  a  pleasing 
feature,  and  the  magniiicent  park  of  Newbattle  Abbej', 
famous  for  its  gigantic  beeches,  a  short  distance  below 
which  it  joins  the  North  Esk.  The  basin  of  the  South 
Esk  is  also  rich  in  coal  measures,  and  in  scenic  attraction 
it  is  little  inferior  to  the  companion  stream,  although 
not  associated  with  so  much  history  or  romance.  Below 
the  confluence  of  the  two  streams,  the  Esk  winds  3| 
miles  north-by-eastward  through  Dalkeith  Park  and 
along  an  alluvial  valley,  overhung  by  the  eminence  on 
which  the  parish  church  of  Inveresk  is  situated,  passing 
the  villages  of  Cowpitts,  Mouktonhall,  and  Inveresk,  and 
reaching  the  sea  at  Musselburgh.  Of  the  many  bridges 
crossing  these  streams,  the  most  interesting  is  the  old 
bridge  at  Musselburgh,  which  is  of  great  antiquity,  and 
is  populai'ly  believed  to  be  of  Roman  origin.  At  a  time 
when  few  bridges  existed,  this  passage  of  the  Esk  was 
of  great  strategic  importance,  and  is  notable  as  having 
been  crossed  by  the  Scottish  army  before  the  battle  of 
Pinkie  in  1547,  and  also  in  1745  by  the  Highland  army 
under  Prince  Charles  Edward,  previous  to  the  battle  of 
Prestonpans.— 0?tZ.  Sur.,  shs.  24,  32,  1864-57. 

Eskadale,  a  hamlet  and  a  mansion  in  Kiltarlity 
parish,  Inverness-shire,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river 
Beauly,  7  miles  SW  of  Beauly  town.  The  hamlet  is 
small  and  rural,  but  contains  a  neat  Roman  Catholic 
church,  St  Mary's  (1826  ;  600  sittings).  The  mansion, 
1  mile  nearer  Beauly,  is  a  handsome  edifice,  and  com- 
mands an  extensive  view  of  Strathglass. 

Eskbank.     See  Dalkeith. 

Esk,  Black.     See  Esk,  Dumfriesshire. 

Eskbridge,  a  station  adjacent  to  the  North  Esk  river, 
at  the  boundary  between  Penicuik  and  Lasswade  parishes, 
Edinburghshire,  on  the  Edinbui'gh  and  Penicuik  rail- 
way, 1  mile  NE  of  Penicuik. 

Eskdale,  the  eastern  and  smallest  one  of  the  three 
districts  of  Dumfriesshire.  It  is  loosely  understood  to 
be  conterminous  with  all  the  Scottish  territory  within 
the  basin  of  the  Esk  river  ;  but  it  has  sometimes  been 
treated  as  excluding  the  basin  of  the  tributary  rivulet 
Ewes,  which  often  is  styled  Ewesdale ;  and,  on  the 
other  hand,  it  is  commonly  taken  to  include  the  parish 
of  Half  Morton,  which  lies  beyond  the  basin  of  the  Esk, 
and  is  drained  into  the  Sark.  The  parishes  undoubtedly 
comprised  in  it  are  Eskdalemuir,  "Westerkirk,  Lang- 
holm, and  Canonbie.  The  first  and  the  second  of  these 
parishes,  most  of  the  third,  and  all  Ewes,  are  hilly  or 
mountainous,  Ijing  within  the  Southern  Highlands,  and 
37 


ESE,  NORTH 

thinly  peopled  ;  but  the  southern  part  of  Langholm  and 
all  Canonbie  and  Half  Morton  are  a  fine  fiat  country. 
Eskdale,  in  the  early  part  of  the  12th  century,  was 
nearly  all  divided  among  the  Anglo-Norman  families  of 
Avenel,  Soulis,  and  Rossedal ;  in  the  times  of  Robert  I. 
and  David  II.,  was  mostly  acquired  by  the  Douglases  ; 
continued  to  be  held  by  them  till  their  forfeiture  in 
1455 ;  passed  then  to  the  JIaswells,  and  continued  to 
be  held  by  them  throughout  the  16th  and  17th  cen- 
turies. A  regality  over  it  was  erected  in  favour  of  the 
Douglases ;  passed,  through  the  Maxwells,  to  the 
Scotts  of  Buccleuch  ;  and,  at  the  abolition  of  hereditary 
jurisdictions  in  1747,  was  compensated  by  the  payment 
of  £1400  to  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch. 

Eskdalemuir,  a  parish  of  E  Dumfriesshire,  whose 
chm-ch  stands,  620  feet  above  sea-level,  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  White  Esk,  14  miles  N"W  of  Langholm, 
under  which  there  is  a  post  office  of  Eskdalemuir.  It  is 
bounded  N  by  Ettrick  in  Selkirkshire,  NE  by  Roberton 
and  Teviothead  in  Roxburghshire,  E  and  SE  by  Wester- 
kirk,  S  and  SW  by  Hutton,  and  NW  by  Mofl'at.  Its 
utmost  length,  from  N  to  S,  is  12J  miles ;  its  utmost 
breadth,  from  E  to  W,  is  9J  miles ;  and  its  area  is 
43,518J  acres,  of  which  236^  are  water.  The  Black 
Esk,  rising  on  Jocks  Shoulder  ia  the  W,  runs  12  J  miles 
south-south-eastward,  close  to  the  western  and  south- 
western border,  tracing,  indeed,  for  the  last  mile  of  its 
course  the  southern  boundary  with  AVesterkirk ;  and 
the  Wliite  Esk,  from  its  soirrce  on  Ettrick  Pen,  flows 
14^  miles  south-by-eastward,  cutting  the  parish  into 
two  pretty  equal  parts.  By  these  two  streams  and 
their  innumerable  affluents,  of  which  Fingland  Burn 
and  Garwald  Water  form  picturesque  cascades,  this 
parish  has  been  channelled  into  mountain  ridges, 
heathy  moorland  most  of  it — hence  its  name  Eslcdale- 
muir.  At  the  confluence  of  the  White  and  Black  Esks 
to  form  the  river  Esk,  the  surface  declines  to  490  feet 
above  the  sea  ;  and  elevations,  northwards  thence,  to 
the  left  or  E  of  the  AVhite  Esk,  are  the  Pike  (1001  feet), 
Blaeberry  HUl  (1376),  *Stock  HiU  (1561),  *Quicknin- 
gair  Hill  (1601),  and  *Blue  Cairn  Hill  (1715),  where 
asterisks  mark  those  summits  that  culminate  on  the 
confines  of  the  parish.  Between  the  White  and  Black 
Esks,  again,  rise  Castle  Hill  (1054),  Ashy  Bank  (1394), 
*Etteiok  Pen  (2269),  and  *Loch  Fell  (2256) ;  and 
lastly,  to  the  right  or  W  of  the  Black  Esk  are  *Hart 
Fell  (1085),  Haregrain  Rig  (1336),  and  'Jocks  Shoulder 
(1754).  The  rocks  are  mainly  Silurian,  but  include 
some  Old  Red  sandstone  and  conglomerate.  The  soil 
in  general  of  the  pastoral  tracts  is  deep  but  mossy, 
carpeted  with  carices  or  with  coarse  herbage  at  the 
best ;  but  some  of  the  slopes  along  the  White  Esk's 
banks  are  green  and  aS'ord  good  gi-azing ;  and  here,  too, 
are  some  500  acres  of  holm-land — naturally  wet,  but 
greatly  improved  by  draining — that  repay  the  trouble 
of  cultivation.  On  every  height  almost  are  traces  of 
ancient  camps,  circular,  oval,  or  rectangular,  the  most 
curious  of  which,  that  of  Castle  O'er,  has  been  noticed 
in  a  separate  article.  Of  two  stone  circles  upon  Coatt 
farm,  the  more  entire  measured  90,  and  the  other 
(partly  destroyed  by  the  White  Esk)  340,  feet.  The 
Rev.  William  Brown,  D.D.  (1766-1S35),  author  of 
Antiquities  of  the  Jcivs,  was  minister  for  more  than 
forty  years.  The  Duke  of  Buccleuch  owns  two-thirds 
of  the  parish,  2  other  proprietors  holding  each  an 
annual  value  of  more,  and  2  of  less,  than  £500.  Dis- 
joined from  Westerkirk  in  1703,  Eskdalemuir  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Langholm  and  synod  of  Dumfries  ;  the 
living  is  worth  £405.  The  church,  built  in  1826,  is  a 
neat  edifice,  containing  893  sittings.  A  Free  church  is 
at  Davixgton  ;  and  two  public  schools,  Eskdalemuir 
and  Davington,  with  respective  accommodation  for  60 
and  118  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of 
18  and  32,  and  erants  of  £28,  8s.  and  £42,  19s.  Valua- 
tion (1860)  £8899,  (1882)  £11,060,  13s.  5d.  Pop. 
(1801)  537,  (1831)  650,  (1861)  590,  (1871)  551,  (ISSl) 
5iS. —Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  16,  10,  1864. 

Esk,  North,  a  quoad  sacra  parish  in  Inveresk  parish, 
Edinburghshire,  adjacent  to  Musselburgh  post  ofiice  and 

577 


ESK,  NORTE 

station,  and  including  the  Musselburgh  suburb  of 
Fisherrow.  It  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Dalkeith  and 
synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale  ;  the  nominal  stipend 
is  d£120.  The  church,  in  Fisherrow,  was  built  in  1838 
as  a  chapel  of  ease,  and  contains  1000  sittings.  See 
Invekesk. 

Esk,  North  (the  Leva  of  Ptolemy),  a  river  of  Forfar 
and  Kincardine  shires,  formed,  at  an  altitude  of  820 
feet  above  sea-level,  by  the  confluence  of  Lee  and  Mark 
Waters  at  Invermark,  near  Lochlee  church,  17  miles 
NW  of  Edzell.  Thence  it  winds  29  miles  south-east- 
ward, till,  at  a  point  4J  miles  NNE  of  Montrose,  it 
enters  the  North  Sea.  During  the  last  15  miles  of  its 
coui'se  it  roughlj'  traces  the  boundary  between  Kincar- 
dine and  Forfar  shires ;  and  from  head  to  mouth  it 
traverses  or  bounds  the  parishes  of  Lochlee,  Edzell, 
Fettercairn,  Stracathro,  Logiepert,  Marykirk,  Montrose, 
and  St  C3'rus.  Its  upper  tributaries  are,  on  the  right, 
the  Effock,  the  Keeny,  and  the  Mooran,  the  water  of 
the  last  of  which  supplies  the  town  of  Brechin  with 
500,000  gallons  a  day.  The  works,  constructed  in 
1874,  cost  over  £15,000,  and  the  supply  is  conveyed 
10  miles.  On  the  left  bank  the  Esk  receives  the  Tarf 
at  Tarfside,  the  Tm-ret  at  MUlden,  between  Lochlee 
and  Edzell,  and  lower  down  the  Burns  of  Meallie  and 
Auchmull.  The  course  of  the  North  Esk  where  it 
leaves  the  Grampians  is  rugged,  wooded,  and  pictui'esque, 
and  that  part  which  forms  the  county  boundary 
pierces  for  a  number  of  miles  through  a  red  sandstone 
gorge.  It  is  crossed  by  the  '  Loups  Bridge '  and  Gan- 
noohy  Bridge,  the  latter  erected  in  1732  by  James  Black, 
a  farmer  ia  the  district.  Passing  tlie  village  of  Edzell, 
it  receives  West  and  Cruick  Waters  at  Stracathro,  and 
Luther  Water  at  Balmakewan,  all  from  the  Howe  of 
the  Mearns  ;  then  after  passing  Craigo,  Logic,  Montrose 
Water-works,  and  Kinnaber  Mills  on  the  right,  and 
Marykirk  village  on  the  left,  it  loses  itself  at  length  in 
the  ocean.  On  20  Sept.  1861  the  Queen  and  the  Prince 
Consort,  with  Princess  Alice  and  Prince  Louis  of  Hesse, 
drove  down  Glenesk  from  Invermarlc  to  The  Burn,  in  the 
course  of  their  Fettercairn  or  '  second  great '  expedition. 
The  river  gives  a  title  to  a  branch  of  the  Carnegie 
family.  Sir  John,  younger  brother  to  the  first  Earl  of 
Southesk,  was  created  Lord  Lour  in  1639,  Earl  of  Ethie 
in  1 647,  and  in  1662  received  the  titles  of  Earl  of  North- 
esk  and  Lord  RosehiU,  the  latter  from  an  eminence  on 
the  banks  of  the  river.  (See  Ethie.  )  The  river  oflers 
good  sport,  containing  as  it  does,  salmon,  sea  trout, 
and  common  trout.  The  net  fishings  are  valuable,  700 
to  800  salmon  having  been  taken  on  the  opening  day  of 
the  season  below  Marykiz'k  Bridge. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  66, 
57,  1871-68. 

Eskside.     See  Musselburgh. 

Esk,  South,  a  river  of  Forfarshire,  48|  miles  long, 
rising  in  the  NW  corner  of  the  county,  at  an  altitude 
of  3150  feet  above  sea-level,  within  J  mile  of  feeders  of 
the  Callader  and  Muick,  both  of  which  flow  to  the  Dee. 
It  flows  SE  for  20|  miles  to  Inverquharity,  to  which 
point  it  is  a  rugged  Highland  stream,  and  thence  it 
flows  due  E  to  Montrose.  In  its  upper  reaches  its 
waters  are  supplemented  by  Lochs  Brandy  and  Wharral, 
Kottal  and  Glenmoy  Burns,  flowing  in  on  the  E  bank, 
and  on  the  W  side  by  White  Water  from  Glen  Doll, 
Drums  Burn,  and  Pkosen  Water,  joining  it  at  Cortachy. 
Carity  Burn  enters  the  Esk  from  the  W,  and  Glenquiech 
Burn  enters  from  the  N.  The  South  Esk  then  passes 
Tannadice  and  Finhaven  Castle,  and,  at  the  last-named 
place,  it  receives  the  Lemno,  and  further  down  the 
NoBAN,  a  beautiful  and  rapid  stream.  Leaving  Auldbar 
Castle  on  tlie  right,  the  South  Esk  passes  Brechin  with 
its  castle  and  cathedral,  then  the  grounds  of  Kinnaird 
Castle  ;  and  soon  after  receiving  the  Pow,  a  sluggish  burn 
7  miles  long,  expands  into  Montrose  Basin,  an  inland 
lake  at  high  tide  2 J  miles  by  IJ  mile,  and  7  miles  in 
circumference.  At  low  tide  the  basin  is  a  melancholy 
expanse  of  mud  with  a  narrow  stream  at  the  S  side, 
and  the  Taycock  Burn  flowing  in  at  the  NE  corner. 
The  basin  is  joined  to  the  sea  by  two  channels  which 
reunite  and  form  Rossie  Island  or  Inohbrayock,     The 


ETHIE  CASTLE 

wider  of  the  two  outlets  is  crossed  by  a  suspension 
bridge,  built  in  1828  at  a  cost  of  £20,000,  and  by  the 
new  railway  viaduct.  (See  North  British  Railway.) 
From  this  point  seawards  the  South  Esk  presents  a  fine 
navigable  channel.  It  traverses  or  bounds  the  parishes 
of  Cortachy  and  Clova,  Kirriemuir,  Tannadice,  Oath- 
law,  Aberlemno,  Careston,  Brechin,  Farnell,  Dun, 
Maryton,  Montrose,  and  Craig.  The  South  Esk  with 
its  tributaries  has  some  capital  fishing,  but  it  is  largely 
preserved.  Trout-fishing,  however,  is  plentiful  in  all 
the  streams,  and  there  are  three  varieties  of  this  fish — 
one  yellowish,  another  whitish,  and  a  third  very  dark, 
with  small  red  spots  deeply  imbedded,  and  like  a  pike. 
The  title  Earl  of  Southesk  was  bestowed  in  1633  on 
Lord  Carnegie,  formerly  Sir  David  Carnegie  of  Kinnaird. 
The  peerage  was  forfeited  in  1716  on  account  of  the 
participation  of  the  fifth  Earl  in  the  rising  of  the 
Fifteen,  but  was  restored  in  the  person  of  the  present 
Earl  in  1855.  See  Kinnaird. — Ord,  Sur.,  shs.  65,  56, 
57,  1870-68. 

Esk,  White.     See  Esk,  Dumfriesshire. 

Eslemont.    See  Esslemont. 

Eslin.     See  Glenessland. 

Esragan,  a  burn  of  Ardchattan  parish,  Argyllshire, 
rising  at  an  altitude  of  2100  feet  above  sea-level,  and 
running  4|  miles  southward  to  Loch  Etive  at  Inveres- 
ragan,  2^  miles  NW  of  Bunawe.  — Ord.  Sur. ,  sh.  45, 1876. 

Esseforse,  a  cataract  in  Ulva  island,  Argyllshire,  on 
a  tiny  hiU  stream  falling  into  Ulva  North  Loch.  Above 
it  are  two  lesser  waterfalls  ;  and  its  own  is  an  unbroken 
and  precipitous  descent  of  90  feet. 

Essenside,  a  loch  near  the  centre  of  Ashkirk  parish, 
W  Roxburghshire.  Lying  680  feet  above  sea-level,  it 
measures  J  by  -^  mUe,  abounds  in  fine  trout  and  perch, 
and  semds  oflTa  strearolet  to  the  Ale. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  17, 
1864. 

Esset,  a  troutful  burn  of  TuUynessle  parish,  Aberdeen- 
shire, rising  among  the  Correen  Hills,  at  an  altitude  of 
1300  feet  above  sea-level,  and  running  6 J  miles  south- 
eastward across  the  middle  of  the  parish,  till  it  falls  into 
the  Don  9  furlongs  below  the  Bridge  of  Afford.  It  has 
a  total  descent  of  nearly  900  feet ;  drives  nine  or  ten 
mUls  during  the  last  2J  miles  of  its  course  ;  is  subject 
to  great  freshets ;  and  in  the  years  1829  and  1835  became 
for  some  hours  a  devastating  and  overwhelming  torrent. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  76,  1874. 

Essich,  an  estate  in  Inverness  parish,  Inverness-shire, 
4  miles  S  by  W  of  the  town. 

Essie,  an  ancient  parish  of  NW  Aberdeenshire,  united 
at  a  remote  period  to  Rhynie.  Its  church,  however, 
standing  2i  miles  WNW  of  Rhynie  village,  was  not  dis- 
continued till  about  1760.  At  Essie,  Lulach,  Macbeth's 
successor,  was  slain  on  17  March  1058,  after  a  nominal 
reign  of  seven  months. 

Essie,  Forfarshire.     See  Eassie. 

Essiemore.    See  Auohinchew. 

Essil,  an  ancient  parish  in  the  NE  of  Elginshire, 
united  to  Dipple  in  1731  to  form  Speymouth  parish. 

Esslemont,  an  estate,  with  a  station  and  a  mansion, 
in  the  S  of  Ellon  parish,  Aberdeenshire.  The  station  is 
on  the  Formartine  and  Buchan  section  of  the  Great  North 
of  Scotland  railway.  If  mile  SSW  of  Ellon  station.  The 
mansion,  IJ  mile  N  by  W  of  the  station,  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Ythan,  is  a  plain  building,  with  a  finely- 
wooded  park ;  its  owner,  Henry  Wolrige  Gordon  (b.  1831 ; 
sue.  1874),  holds  4962  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £4503 
per  annum.  A  ruined  fortalice,  called  Mains  of  Esslemont 
Castle,  is  nearer  the  station. 

Essmore.    See  Auohinchew. 

Ethie.    See  Eathie. 

Ethiebeaton.    See  Monifieth. 

Ethie  Castle,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Northesk,  in 
Inverkeilor  parish,  Forfarshire,  5  furlongs  from  the 
coast,  and  5  miles  NNE  of  Arbroath.  Built  and  in- 
habited by  Cardinal  Beaton,  it  was,  with  neighbouring 
lands,  conferred  by  his  father,  in  1596,  on  Sir  John 
Carnegie,  who  in  1639  was  created  Lord  Lour,  and  in 
1647  Earl  of  Ethie — a  title  which  he  exchanged  in  1662 
for  that  of  Earl  of  Northesk.     WiUiam,  seventh  Earl, 


ETHIEBEATON 

G.C.B.  (1756-1331),  was  third  in  command  at  Trafalgar. 
His  grandson,  George  John  Carnegie,  present  and  ninth 
Earl  (b.  lSi3  ;  sue.  1878),  holds  4844  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £7762  per  annum. — Ord.  Stcr.,  sh.  57,  1868. 

Etive,  a  river  and  a  sea-loch  in  the  Lorn  district  of 
Argyllshire.  The  river  issues  from  Lochan  Mathair  Etive 
(J  X  J  mile  ;  970  feet)  on  desolate  Rannocli  Muir,  at  the 
mutual  border  of  Lismore  and  Glenorchy  parishes,  2  miles 
E  of  Kingshouse  inn.  Thence,  past  Kingshouse  and  Dal- 
ness,  it  runs  15J  miles  west-south-westward  and  south- 
westward,  mainly  through  the  parish  of  Ardchattan,  till 
it  falls  into  the  head  of  the  loch.  It  is  fed  by  rivulets  in- 
numerable ;  near  Dalness  and  Coileitir  it  forms  two  fine 
cascades ;  and  the  fishing  is  good  for  salmon  and  sea  trout 
from  Dalness  downwards,  for  river  trout  higher  up.  Glen 
Etive  is  grandly  alpine,  flanked  on  the  right  by  Buaoh- 
aille-Etive  (3345  feet)  and  Ben  Veedan  (3766),  which 
part  it  from  Glencoe ;  on  the  left  by  Glach  Leathad  (3602) 
and  Ben  Starav  (3541).  '  Several  houses  or  huts,'  says 
Professor  Wilson,  '  become  visible  no  long  way  up  the 
glen  ;  and  though  that  long  hollow — half  a  day's  jour- 
ney— till  you  reach  the  wild  road  between  Inveroran  and 
Kingshouse — lies  in  gloom,  yet  the  hillsides  are  cheerful, 
and  you  delight  in  the  greensward,  \vide  and  rock-broken, 
should  you  ascend  the  passes  that  lead  into  Glencreran 
or  Glencoe.  But  to  feel  the  full  power  of  Glen  Etive, 
you  must  walk  up  it  till  it  ceases  to  be  a  glen.  When 
in  the  middle  of  the  moor,  you  see  far  otf  a  solitary 
dwelling — perhaps  the  loneliest  house  in  all  the  High- 
lands— and  the  solitude  is  made  profounder,  as  you  pass 
by,  by  the  voice  of  a  cataract,  hidden  in  an  awful  chasm, 
bridged  by  two  or  three  stems  of  trees,  along  which  the 
red  deer  might  fear  to  venture  ;  but  we  have  seen  them 
and  the  deer-hounds  glide  over  it,  followed  by  other 
fearless  feet,  when  far  and  wide  the  Forest  of  Dalness 
was  echoing  to  the  hunter's  horn. ' 

Loch  Etive  extends  first  10-^  miles  south-westward  to 
Bunawe,  and  then  winds  8f  miles  westward,  till  at 
Dunstaffnage  Castle  it  merges  in  the  Firth  of  Lorn.  Its 
width — from  J  to  IJ  mile  over  the  upper  loch — is  If 
furlong  at  Bunawe  ferry,  IJ  mile  at  Airds  Bay,  and  IJ 
furlong  at  Connel  ferry.  Prof.  Geikie  sees  in  Loch 
Etive  a  good  example  of  an  ancient  submerged  glen,  be- 
longing to  the  secondary  stage  of  submergence,  higher 
than  Loch  Fyne  and  lower  than  Loch  Maree.  '  It  nar- 
rows,' he  remarks,  '  at  Connel  ferry,  and  across  the  strait- 
ened part  runs  a  reef  of  rocks,  covered  at  high  water,  but 
partly  exposed  at  ebb.  Over  this  barrier  the  flowing 
tide  rushes  into  the  loch,  and  the  ebbing  tide  rushes  out, 
■with  a  rapidity  which,  during  part  of  the  time,  breaks 
into  a  roar  of  angry  foam  like  that  of  a  cataract.  The 
greatest  depth  of  the  loch  above  these  falls  is  420  feet ; 
at  the  falls  themselves  there  is  a  depth  of  only  6  feet  at 
low  water ;  and  outside  this  barrier  the  soundings  reach, 
at  a  distance  of  2  miles,  168  feet.  Loch  Etive  is  thus  a 
characteristic  rock-basin,  and  an  elevation  of  the  land 
to  the  extent  of  only  20  feet  would  isolate  the  loch  from 
the  sea,  and  turn  it  into  a  long,  winding,  deep,  fresh- 
water lake.'  Many  have  described  the  beauties  of  Loch 
Etive,  none  better  than  Dorothy  Wordsworth.  'The 
loch,'  she  writes,  'is  of  a  considerable  width  ;  but  the 
mountains  are  so  very  high  that,  whether  we  were  close 
under  them  or  looked  from  one  shore  to  the  other,  they 
maintaiued  their  dignity.  I  speak  of  the  higher  parts 
of  the  loch,  above  Bunawe  and  the  river  Awe,  for  down- 
wards they  are  but  hills,  and  the  water  spreads  out  wide 
towards  undetermined  shores.  On  our  right  was  Ben 
Cruaohan  (3611  feet),  rising  directly  from  the  lake,  and 
on  the  opposite  side  another  mountain,  called  Ben 
Duirinnis  (1821),  craggy,  and  exceedingly  steep,  with 
wild  wood  growing  among  the  rocks  and"  stones.  We 
crossed  the  water,  which  was  very  rough  in  the  middle, 
but  calmer  near  the  shores ;  and  some  of  the  rocky  basins 
and  little  creeks  among  the  rocks  were  as  still  as  a  mirror, 
and  they  were  so  beautiful  with  the  reflection  of  the 
orange-coloured  sea- weed  growing  on  the  stones  or  rocks, 
that  a  child,  with  a  chUd's  delight  in  gay  colours,  might 
have  danced  with  joy  at  the  sight  of  them.  It  never 
ceased  raining,  and  the  tops  of  the  mountams  were  con- 


ETTERICK 

cealed  by  mists,  but  as  long  as  we  could  see  across  the 
water  we  were  contented  ;  for  though  little  could  be  seen 
of  the  true  shapes  and  permanent  appearances  of  the 
mountains,  we  saw  enough  to  give  us  the  most  exquisite 
delight :  the  powerful  lake  which  filled  the  large  vale, 
roaring  torrents,  clouds  floating  on  the  mountain  sides, 
sheep  that  pastured  there,  sea  birds  and  land  birds. 
.  .  .  Cruachan,  on  the  other  side  of  the  lake,  was 
exceedingly  grand,  and  appeared  of  an  enormous  height, 
spreading  out  two  largo  arms  that  made  a  cove  down 
which  fell  many  streams  swollen  by  the  rain,  and  in  the 
hollow  of  the  cove  were  some  huts  which  looked  like  a 
village.  The  top  of  the  mountain  was  concealed  from 
us  by  clouds,  and  the  mists  floated  high  and  low  upon 
the  sides  of  it.  .  .  .  Friday,  Sept.  2,  1803.— De- 
parted from  Taynuilt  about  seven  o'clock  this  morning, 
having  to  travel  8  miles  down  Loch  Etive  and  then  to 
cross  Connel  ferry.  Our  road  was  at  first  at  a  consider- 
able distance  from  the  lake,  and  out  of  sight  of  it,  among 
undulating  hills  covered  mth  coppice  woods,  resembling 
the  country  between  Coniston  and  Windermere  ;  but  it 
afterwards  carried  ns  close  to  the  water's  edge,  and  in 
this  part  of  our  ride  we  were  disappointed.  We  knew 
that  the  high  mountains  were  all  at  the  head  of  the  lake, 
therefore  had  not  expected  the  same  awful  grandeur'  which 
we  beheld  the  day  before,  and  perceived  by  glimpses ; 
but  the  gentleman  whom  we  met  -with  at  Dalmally  had 
told  us  that  there  were  many  fine  situations  for  gentle- 
men's seats  on  this  part  of  the  lake,  which  had  made  us 
expect  gi-eater  loveliness  near  the  shores,  and  better 
cultivation.  It  is  true  there  are  pleasant  bays,  with 
grounds  prettily  sloping  to  the  water,  and  coppice.'woods, 
where  houses  would  stand  in  shelter  and  sun,  looking  on 
the  lake  ;  but  much  is  yet  wanting — waste  lands  to  be 
ploughed,  peat-mosses  drained,  hedgerows  reared ;  and 
the  woods  demand  a  gi-ant  of  longer  life  than  is  now  their 
privilege.  But  after  we  had  journeyed  about  6  miles,  a 
beautiful  scene  opened  upon  us.  The  morning  had  been 
gloomy,  and  at  this  time  the  sun  shone  out,  scattering 
the  clouds.  We  looked  right  down  the  lake,  that  was 
covered  with  streams  of  dazzling  sunshine,  which  revealed 
the  indentings  of  the  dark  shores.  On  a  bold  promontory, 
on  the  same  side  of  the  loch  where  we  were,  stood  DuN- 
staffnase  Castle,  an  irregular  tall  building,  not  with- 
out majesty ;  and  beyond,  with  leagues  of  water  between, 
our  eyes  settled  upon  the  island  of  Mull,  a  high  moun- 
tain, green  in  the  sunshine,  and  overcast  with  clouds, — 
an  object  as  inviting  to  the  fancy  as  the  evening  sky  in 
the  west,  and,  though  of  a  terrestrial  green,  almost  as 
visionary.  We  saw  that  it  was  an  island  of  the  sea,  but 
were  unacquainted  with  its  name  :  it  was  of  a  gem-like 
colour,  and  as  soft  as  the  sky.  The  shores  of  Loch 
Etive,  in  their  moorish,  rocky  wildness,  their  earthly 
bareness,  as  they  lay  in  length  before  us,  produced  a 
contrast  which,  with  the  pure  sea,  the  brilliant  sun.shine, 
the  long  distance,  contributed  to  the  aerial  and  romantic 
power  with  which  the  island  was  invested.'  In  1871, 
Dr  R.  Angus  Smith  discovered,  in  a  large  moss  on  the 
shores  of  Loch  Etive,  an  ancient  lake-dwelling,  50  feet 
long  and  28  broad,  on  a  platform  60  feet  in  diameter ; 
whilst  a  large  cairn  disclosed  two  megalithic  chambers, 
counected  by  a  narrow  passage,  and  each  of  them  20  feet 
long.  Relics  these,  possibly,  of  that  dim,  far-away 
Fingalian  age,  whose  memories  linger  round  '  Bere- 
GONIUM,'  Dunstafi'nage,  and  other  spots  on  or  near  to  the 
shores  of  Loch  Etive.— Orf?.  Sur.,  shs.  54,  53,  45,  1873- 
77.  See  pp.  143-153  of  Dorothy  Wordsworth's  Tour  in 
Scotland  (ed.  by  Princ.  Shairp,  1874) ;  Professor  Archi- 
bald Geikie's  Scenery  and  Geology  of  Scotland  JLond. 
1865) ;  and  Loch  Etive  and  the  Sons  of  Uisivxch  (Lond. 
1879). 

Etterick,  a  bay  on  the  W  side  of  the  Isle  of  Bute, 
opening  near  the  extremity  of  the  Kyles  of  Bute,  24 
miles  ENE  of  Ardlamont  Point.  It  measures  1  mile 
across  its  entrance,  and  5  furlongs  thence  to  its  inmost 
recess  ;  a  dingle  extends  from  it,  2  miles  east-north-east- 
ward across  the  island,  to  the  head  of  Karnes  Bay  ;  and 
Glen  More  descends  southward  to  its  N  side,  and  brings 
down  to  it  a  bmm  from  a  point  ■ivithin  IJ  mile  of  the 

579 


ETTLETON 

northern  extremity  of  the  island. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  29, 
1873. 

Ettleton,  an  ancient  parish  of  Liddesdale,  S  Rox- 
burghshii'e,  since  1604  incorporated  with  Castleton 
parish.  Its  church  stood  near  the  W  bank  of  Liddel 
Water,  9  furlongs  SSW  of  Newcastleton. 

Ettrick,  a  parish  of  Selkirkshire,  whose  tree-girt 
church  and  manse  nestle,  800  feet  above  sea-level,  in  a 
sunny  corner  of  the  high  green  hills,  J  mile  from  the 
left  bank  of  Ettrick  Water,  but  Tvith  their  own  little 
Kirk  Burn— 4f  miles  SSE  of  '  Tibby  Shiels,'  Sf  SW  of 
Tushielaw  Inn,  and  18J  SW  of  the  post-town,  Selkirk. 
It  is  bounded  N  by  Yarrow,  NE  by  Kirkhope,  SE  by 
the  Selkirkshire  and  Roxburghshire  portions  of  Roberton, 
S  by  Eskdalemuir  in  Dumfriesshire,  AV  by  Moffat  in 
Dumfriesshire,  and  NW  by  Lyne  in  Peeblesshire.  From 
NE  to  SW  its  utmost  length  is  12|  miles  ;  its  breadth, 
from  NW  to  SE,  varies  between  74  furlongs  and  10 
miles,  being  greatest  at  the  middle ;  and  its  area  is 
42,682|  acres,  of  which  296  are  water.  The  Loch  of  the 
Lowes  (6|xlf  furl.)  lies  nearly  all  within  the  NW 
corner  of  Ettrick  parish,  to  which  also  belongs  the 
western  half  of  the  upper  f  mOe  of  St  Maky's  Loch  ; 
whilst  on  the  eastern  and  south-eastern  border  are 
Cleaebukn  Loch  (2Jxl  fuii.),  Crooked  Loch  (2x1 
furl.),  and  Kingside  Looh  (2Jxlf  furl.).  From  its 
source  upon  Capel  Fell,  at  the  SW  extremity  of  the 
parish,  Ettrick  Water  winds  14^  miles  north-east- 
ward through  the  interior,  and  then  9  furlongs  along 
the  Kirkhope  border,  descending  during  this  course  from 
1900  to  745  feet  above  sea-level,  and  being  joined  by 
TiMA  Water,  •  Rankle  Burn,  Tushielaw  Burn,  and 
thirty-four  lesser  tributaries.  From  NE  to  SW,  the 
chief  elevations  to  the  left  or  NW  of  the  Ettrick  are  the 
Kip  (1293  feet),  "Turner  Clench  Law  (1809),  Tushie  Law 
(1431),  Coom  Law  (1619),  Thirlestane  Hill  (1475),  Ward 
Law  (1951)  and  Craig  Hill  (1597)  behind  the  church, 
Penniestone  Knowe  (1807),  *Muckle  Knees  (1929), 
*Herman  Law  (2014),  *Andrewhinney  (2220),  Black 
Knowe  Head  (1938),  *Bodesbeck  Law  (2173),  and 
*Capel  Fell  (2223)  ;  to  the  right  or  SE  of  the  stream 
rise  Cacra  Hill  (1546),  Gamescleuch  Hill  (1490),  Law 
Kneis  (1634),  *Quickningair  Hill  (1601),  Hope  Head 
(1697),  Cauld  Face  (1756),  Black  Knowe  (1804),  and 
Ettrick  Pen  (2269) — where  asterisks  mark  those  sum- 
mits that  culminate  on  the  confines  of  the  parish.  The 
rocks  are  Silurian,  gi-eywacke  chiefly  and  clay  slate. 
The  soil  of  the  haughs  is  iine  alluvium,  of  the  skirts  of 
the  hOls  is  either  sandy  or  gravelly  or  else  a  cold  stiff 
clay,  and  on  their  shoulders  and  summits  is  mostly  a 
deep  moss.  Barely  400  acres  are  arable,  barely  300  are 
under  wood,  though  a  start  was  made  in  1865  to  break 
up  the  hill -sides  at  Ramsaycleuch  for  tillage,  and 
though  Lord  Napier's  plantations  round  Thirlestane 
Castle  have  thriven  exceedingly.  Nor  of  permanent 
pasture  are  there  more  than  120  acres,  although  from 
the  point  where  the  Ettrick's  defile  broadens  into  valley, 
a  mile  above  the  church,  meadows  begin  to  appear, 
where  cattle  graze — Ayrshires  and  shorthorns,  with  a 
few  of  the  Highland  breed.  The  rest  of  the  parish  is 
all  one  mighty  sheep-walk,  wave  upon  wave  of  long, 
green,  rounded  hills,  whose  rich  grass  feeds  enormous 
flocks  of  Cheviots.  Fitting  that  Ettrick  should  be  for 
ever  associated  with  the  '  Ettrick  Shepherd, '  James 
Hogg  (1770-1835).  The  cottage  in  which  he  was  born, 
by  Ettrick  Hall,  3  fmdongs  ESE  of  the  church,  fell 
down  about  1830 ;  but  his  grave  in  the  churchyard 
remains  for  a  shrine  of  pilgrimage.  (See  Altrive  and 
St  MLaey's  Loch.)  There,  too,  are  buried  William 
John,  eighth  Lord  Napier  (1786-1834),  who  died  in 
China,  ihd  the  Rev.  Thomas  Boston  (1676-1732), 
minister  of  Ettrick  from  1707,  and  author  of  The  Four- 
fold State.  Many  are  the  memories  of  this  well- 
cherished  divine,  who  tells  us  of  his  last  communion 
how  'there, were  nearly  800  commimicants,  great  num- 
bers of  them  from  a  considerable  distance.  Tlie 
hospitality  of  the  farmers,  and  all  those  who  had  it  in 
their  power  to  accommodate  and  support  them,  during 
the  preaching  days,  was  beyond  all  praise.  At  one 
580 


ETTRICK  FOREST 

farm  place  they  accommodated  nine  sciare,  at  another 
they  had  half  a  boU  of  meal  baken,  besides  a  quantity 
of  loaf  bread ;  they  killed  three  lambs,  and  made  up 
thirty  beds.'  But,  indeed,  to  enumerate  all  of  interest 
that  attaches  to  Ettrick  were  to  write  a  volume  which 
still  remains  to  be  written,  and  to  trench  on  our  articles 
BuccLEucH,  Tushielaw,  Gamescleuch,  Chapelhope, 
Kirkhope,  and  Thirlestane  Castle.  Mansions  other 
than  the  last  are  Cacra  Bank  and  Rodono  ;  and  besides 
the  2  chief  proprietors,  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch  and 
Lord  Napier,  there  are  2  holding  each  an  annual 
value  of  more,  and  6  of  less,  than  £100.  Ettrick  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  Selkirk  and  synod  of  Merse  and 
Teviotdale  ;  the  living  is  worth  £342.  The  church, 
built  in  1824,  is  a  neat  edifice,  with  a  square  tower  and 
310  sittings  ;  and  a  public  school,  3  fmiongs  to  the  E, 
with  accommodation  for  62  children,  had  (1880)  an 
average  attendance  of  25,  and  a  grant  of  £31,  14s.  6d. 
Valuation  (1865)  £9852, 19s.  7d.,  (1880)  £12,356, 12s.  6d. 
Pop.  (1801)  445,  (1831)  530,  (1861)  434,  (1871)  434, 
(1881)  397.— Ord  Siir.,  sh.  16,  1864. 

Ettrick-Bank,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Selkirk 
parish,  Selkii-kshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  Ettrick  Water, 
2J  miles  N  by  E  of  Selkirk  town.  It  belongs  to  the 
same  proprietor  as  Sunderland  Hall. 

Ettrick-Bridge,  a  village  in  Kirkhope  parish,  Selkirk- 
shire, on  Ettrick  Water,  7  miles  WSW  of  Selku-k.  It  has 
a  post  oflice  under  Selkirk,  an  inn,  and  Kirkhope  manse ; 
and  it  serves  as  an  angling  centre  for  the  lower  reaches 
of  Ettrick  Water. 

Ettrick  Forest,  a  popular,  poetic,  and  historic  name 
for  the  whole  or  chief  part  of  Selkirkshire,  together  with 
contiguous  parts  of  Peebles  and  Edinburgh  shires. 
AU  the  country  drained  by  the  Ettrick  and  the  Yarrow, 
with  part  of  that  drained  by  other  affluents  of  the 
Tweed,  as  also  the  country  now  forming  the  upper  ward 
of  Clydesdale,  was  clothed  Tsith  wood  once,  a  remnant 
of  the  ancient  Caledonian  Forest.  Oak  was  the  com- 
monest tree,  mingled  with  birch  and  hazel.  Great 
numbers  of  oaks  have  been  dug  up  in  mosses  which 
evidently  owed  their  formation  to  the  stagnation  of 
water  upon  the  neglected  woodlands.  The  forest, 
judging  from  the  prevalence  of  a  Saxon  nomenclature 
throughout  the  district,  appears  to  have  been  early 
settled  by  the  Northumbrian  Saxons.  From  the  time 
of  Earl  David  (afterwards  David  I.),  early  in  the  12th 
century,  many  grants  were  made,  chiefly  to  the  abbeys 
of  Selkirk,  Melrose,  and  Kelso,  of  various  ■'  easements ' 
within  the  wide  range  of  the  forest.  At  the  close  of  the 
13th  century  Edward  I.,  acting  as  arbiter  of  Scotland, 
gave  away  the  forest's  timber  ;  and  was  followed  in  this 
conduct  by  Edward  II.  and  Edward  III.  Robert  Bruce 
at  his  accession  gave  the  forest  to  Sir  James  Douglas  in 
guerdon  of  his  services ;  and  with  his  family  it  con- 
tinued tUl  their  forfeiture  in  1455.  On  the  4th  of  Aug. 
in  that  year  Ettrick  Forest  was,  by  Act  of  parliament, 
annexed  to  the  Crown.  Abounding  in  beasts  of  chase 
and  birds  of  prey,  the  forest  now  became  again — what  it 
had  been  before  its  tenure  by  the  Douglases — a  favourite 
hunting-ground  of  the  Scottish  kings.  In  1528, 
James  V.  '  made  proclamation  to  all  lords,  barons, 
gentlemen,  landward-men,  and  freeholders,  that  they 
should  compear  at  Edinburgh,  with  a  month's  victuals, 
to  pass  with  the  King  where  he  pleased,  to  danton  the 
thieves  of  Tiviotdale,  Annandale,  Liddisdale,  and  other 
parts  of  that  country  ;  and  also  warned  all  gentlemen 
that  had  good  dogs  to  bring  them,  that  he  might  hunt 
in  the  said  country  as  he  pleased  :  the  whilk  the  Earl  of 
Argyll,  the  Earl  of  Huntly,  the  Earl  of  Athole,  and  so 
all  the  rest  of  the  gentlemen  of  the  Highland,  did,  and 
brought  their  hounds  with  them  in  like  manner,  to 
hunt  with  the  King,  as  he  pleased.  The  second  day  of 
June  the  King  past  out  of  Edinburgh  to  the  hunting, 
with  many  of  the  nobles  and  gentlemen  of  Scotland  with 
him,  to  the  number  of  twelve  thousand  men  ;  and  then 
past  to  Meggitland,  and  hounded  and  hawked  all  the 
country  and  bounds ;  that  is  to  say,  Pappert-law,  St 
Mary-laws,  Carlavirick,  Chapel,  Ewindoores,  and  Long- 
hope.     I  heard  say,  he  slew,  in  these  bounds,  eighteen 


ETTRICK  PEN 

score  of  liarts '  (Pitscottie's  History  of  Scotland,  folio 
edition,  p.  143).  After  this  stately  hunting,  James, 
who  '  made  the  rush-bush  keep  the  cow,'  in  order  to 
increase  his  revenues,  turned  10,000  sheep  into  Ettrick 
Forest,  to  graze  there  under  the  tending  of  a  thrifty 
keeper,  instead  of  10,000  bucks  that  scoured  its  wood- 
lands during  the  bounteous  age  of  Edward  I.  ;  and  by 
this  act  he  led  the  way  to  such  a  conversion  of  the 
entire  forest  into  sheep-pasture,  as  occasioned  a  rapid 
and  almost  total  destruction  of  the  trees.  The  last 
sovereign  of  Scotland  who  visited  it  for  the  sake  of 
the  chase  was  the  beautiful  Mary.  Excepting  a  few 
straggling  thorns,  and  some  solitary  birches,  no  traces 
of  '  Ettricke  foreste  feir '  now  remain,  although,  wher- 
ever protected  from  the  sheep,  copses  soon  arise  without 
any  planting. 

Ettrick  Pen,  a  moimtain  on  the  mutual  border  of 
Ettrick  parish,  Selkirkshire,  and  Eskdalemuir  parish, 
Dumfriesshire,  at  the  sources  of  Ettrick  Water  and  the 
White  Esk,  2J  miles  ENE  of  Capel  Fell,  and  7J  ENE  of 
Moffat.  A  central  height  of  the  Southern  Highlands,  it 
attains  an  altitude  of  2269  feet  above  sea-level,  and 
commands  round  three-fourths  of  a  circle  a  very  exten- 
sive prospect ;  yet  it  is  so  hidden  in  the  intervening 
segment,  by  mountains  of  similar  altitude  to  itself,  as 
to  make  but  a  slight  figure  in  the  general  landscape. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  16,  1864. 

Ettrick  Water,  a  river  of  Selkii'kshire,  rising  in  the 
south-western  extremity  of  the  county,  on  Capel  Fell 
(2223  feet),  at  an  altitude  of  1900  feet,  5^  miles  ENE  of 
Moffat,  and  within  a  half-mile  of  affluents  of  both  the 
Esk  and  Moffat  Water.  Thence  it  winds  32g  miles 
north-eastward  through  or  along  the  borders  of  Ettrick, 
Kirkhope,  Selkirk,  and  Galashiels  parishes,  till,  2J 
miles  below  Selkirk  town,  it  falls  into  the  Tweed.  It 
makes  during  this  course  a  total  descent  of  1600  feet, 
and  is  joined  by  Tiraa  and  Yarrow  Waters,  mth  many 
lesser  tributaries.  Its  scenery  and  the  many  interesting 
spots  by  which  it  flows  are  noticed  in  our  articles  on  the 
four  above-named  parishes,  and  on  Ettrick  Forest,  Oak- 
wood,  Bowhill,  Carterhaugh,  Philiphaugh,  Haining,  and 
Sunderland  Hall.  The  song  of  Ettrick  Bccnfcs,  composed 
in  the  16th  or  the  17tli  century,  but  printed  first  in 
Thomson's  Orpheus  Calcdonius  (1725),  'has,'  says  Prof. 
Veitch,  '  some  exquisite  references  to  local  scenery  and 
traits  of  the  older  shepherd  life,  which  could  have  been 
noted  only  by  a  native  of  the  district,  or  one  resident 
there,  and  thoroughly  familiar  with  the  people  and  the 
scenes.'  The  fishing,  mostly  open  to  the  public,  is 
capital,  the  trout  ranging  between  J  lb.  and  3  lbs., 
though  running  smaller  above  Tushielaw. — Ord.  Sur., 
shs.  16,  17,  25,  1864-65. 

Eu.     See  Ewe. 

Euchan  Water,  a  rivulet  in  Sanquhar  parish,  NW 
Dumfriesshire,  rising  on  the  SE  slope  of  Blaoklaeg 
Hill,  close  to  the  meeting-point  of  Dumfries,  Kirkcud- 
bright, and  Ayr  shires,  and  running  9J  miles  east- 
north-eastward  through  mountain  scenery,  till  it  falls 
into  the  Nith  opposite  Sanquhar  Castle,  after  a  total 
descent  of  1500  i<xt.—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  15,  1864. 

Euchar,  a  rivulet  in  Lorn  district,  Argyllshire,  issuing 
from  Loch  Scammadale,  and  running  2  miles  west-by- 
southward,  then  2  north-westward,  till  it  falls  into  the 
sea  at  Kilninver.  It  traverses  a  deep,  rocky,  and  finely 
wooded  ravine,  and  makes  a  waterfall  a  mile  above  its 
mouth.  Trout,  of  J  lb.  each,  are  plentiful ;  and  salmon 
and  sea-trout  collect  in  a  pool  below  the  fall. 

Eunaoh,  Loch.     See  Ennich. 

Evanton,  a  village  in  Kiltearn  parish,  Ross-shire, 
5  nrile  from  the  Cromarty  Firth,  and  3  furlongs  SW  of 
Novar  station,  this  being  6\  miles  NE  of  Dingwall. 
Founded  about  1810  on  a  waste  piece  of  land,  it  presents 
a  neat  and  regular  appearance,  better  than  that  of  most 
other  villages  in  the  North ;  and  it  has  a  post  office, 
mth  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  depart- 
ments, an  inn,  and  fairs  on  the  first  Tuesday  of  June 
and  December.  Pop.  (1860)  584,  (1871)  526,  (1881) 
436.— Orrf.   Sv.r.,  sh.  93,  1881. 

Evan  Water,  a  stream  of  Lanark  and  Dumfries  shires, 


EVIE 

rising  in  Crawford  parish,  close  to  the  summit  level 
(1012  feet)  of  the  Caledonian  railway,  and  so  near 
Little  Clydes  Burn,  the  reputed  head-stream  of  the 
Clyde,  as  now  to  receive  a  rill  that  formerly  flowed  to 
that  river.  Thence  it  runs  12J  miles  south-south- 
eastward through  Crawford,  Moffat,  and  Kirkpatrick- 
Juxta  parishes,  till  it  faUs  into  Annan  Water,  opposite 
the  influx  of  Moffat  Water,  and  2  miles  SSE  of  Jloffat 
town,  at  an  altitude  of  290  feet.  With  a  rocky  bed,  and 
a  rapid  or  impetuous  current,  it  traverses  a  glen  remark- 
able for  affording  transit  both  to  the  Glasgow  and  Carlisle 
road  and  to'  the  Caledonian  railway  through  an  alpine 
precipitous  range  of  the  Southern  Highlands.  High  up  it 
is  conveyed  by  an  aqueduct  across  the  line,  and,  soon  re- 
appearing far  below,  it  afterwards  is  frequently  crossed  by 
the  railway  ;  whilst  from  head  nearly  to  foot  it  is  flanked 
by  green  mountains,  rising  to  altitudes  of  800  to  1800 
feet  above  sea-level,  yet  rounded  and  comparatively  soft 
in  contour.  Its  glen  possesses  considerable  amenity ; 
contains,  above  Beattock,  the  ruined  castle  of  Achin- 
CAss ;  and  opens  there  into  the  fine  broad  strath  of 
Aunandale. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  16,  1864. 

Evelaw  (popularly  Ively),  an  old  tower  in  Westruther 
parish,  Berwickshire,  lOJ  miles  ENE  of  Lauder.  One 
of  the  castellated  houses  common  on  the  Border  prior  to 
the  union  of  Scotland  and  England,  it  still  is  tolerably 
entire. 

Eveliek  or  Pole  Hill,  a  wooded  summit  (944  feet)  of 
the  Sidlaws,  in  Kilspindie  parish,  Perthshire,  5.^  miles 
ENE  of  Perth.  Commanding  one  of  the  iinest  prospects 
in  Scotland,  it  is  croAvned,  on  its  SE  shoulder,  with 
vestiges  of  an  ancient  fortification,  seeming  to  have 
comprised  two  concentric  stone  walls  and  a  fosse.  Eve- 
lick  Castle,  a  ruin  at  the  eastern  base  of  the  hill,  was 
the  ancient  seat  of  the  Lindsays,  knights  of  Eveliek, 
and  appears  to  have  been  a  place  of  considerable 
strength. 

Evelix,  a  stream  of  Creich  and  Dornoch  parishes,  SE 
Sutherland,  issuing  from  Loch  an  Lagain  (7 J  x  If  furl.  ; 
446  feet),  4J  miles  NE  of  Bonar  Bridge."  Thence  it 
winds  5J  miles  east-south-eastward  along  the  mutual 
boundary  of  the  two  parishes,  next  7i  miles  east-south- 
eastward and  west-south-westward  through  the  interior 
of  Dornoch,  till  it  falls  into  Dornoch  Firth  at  Meikle 
Ferry.  Its  banks,  over  most  of  its  course,  are  beauti- 
fully wooded  ;  and  it  affords  fair  trout  and  grilse  fishing. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  102,  103,  94,  1878-81. 

Everyman's  Land.    See  Scone. 

Evie,  a  parish  in  the  NE  of  the  mainland  of  Orkney, 
containing  Dale  hamlet,  16  miles  NW  of  Kirkwall, 
and  a  post  office  (Evie)  under  Kii-kwall,  with  money 
order  and  savings'  bank  departments. 

The  present  parish  has,  since  the  Reformation  era, 
comprised  the  ancient  parishes  of  Evie  and  Rendall — 
Evie  on  the  N,  Rendall  on  the  S  ;  and  it  lies  near 
Enhallow  island,  within  a  mile  of  Rousay,  AVire,  and 
Gairsay  islands,  and  2 J  miles  AV  of  Shapinshay.  Bounded 
N  and  E  by  the  sea,  S  by  Firth,  and  W  by  Harray  and 
Birsay,  it  has  an  utmost  length  from  NW  to  SE  of  15 
miles,  an  utmost  breadth  of  4 J  miles,  and  an  area 
of  14,720  acres.  Costa  Head  terminates  the  north- 
eastern extremity  of  Evie,  and  is  a  hill  of  consider- 
able size  and  elevation,  presenting  to  the  ocean  a 
front  of  precipitous  rock.  No  other  headland  of  any 
importance  is  on  the  coast,  nor  are  there  any  of  those 
deep  indentations  elsewhere  so  frequent  in  Orkney. 
The  beach,  excepting  at  Woodwick  Bay,  is  rocky, 
and  forms,  in  some  parts,  a  mural  bulwark  against 
the  billows,  but  in  others  is  low  and  flat.  Woodwick 
Bay,  on  the  mutual  boundary  of  Evie  and  KendaU, 
penetrates  IJ  mile  inland,  and  has  a  beach  of  beautifuj 
white  shell  sand.  Gairsay  island,  which  belongs  tc 
Rendall,  is  nearly  circular,  and  measures  4  miles  in 
circumference.  From  Costa  Head  a  range  of  monotonous 
hills,  300  to  400  feet  in  height,  and  moorish  mostly  or 
mossy,  extends  along  all  the  Birsay  and  Harray  border, 
and  sends  off  spm's,  less  lofty  than  itself,  into  the  interior 
of  Rendall.  Swaney  Loch  (IJ  x  1  mile)  interrupts  that 
hill-range  at  a  distance  of  IJ  mile  from  Costa  Head,  and 

581 


EVLIX 

discharges  itself,  by  a  streamlet  through  Birsay,  to  the 
ocean.  The  hills  were  formerly  all  in  a  state  of  com- 
monage, but  began  about  1841  to  be  diyided.  The 
arable  land  is  all  a  gentle  slope  from  the  skirts  of  the 
hUls  to  the  shore,  varying  in  breadth  from  J  to  IJ  mile. 
The  rocks  range  from  blue  slate  to  white  sandstone,  and 
some  are  as  hard  as  flint  and  as  dark  as  lava,  while 
others  are  soft  and  of  a  brownish-grey  hue.  Naturally 
a  fine  agricultural  district  (the  best  land  facing  north- 
ward), the  arable  soil  is  mostly  a  rich  black  loam,  and 
has  generally  a  lighter  and  sharper  character  in  Rendall 
than  in  Evie.  Agriculture  is  further  advanced  in  the 
latter  than  in  the  former  division,  the  estate  of  Swaney 
having  been  much  improved  by  the  proprietor.  A  peat 
moss  occupies  an  entire  large  vale  in  Rendall ;  and  other 
peat  mosses,  which  might  easily  be  drained,  occupy 
hollows  in  other  low  tracts.  Turbary  moss,  affording  an 
ineshaustible  supply  of  excellent  peat  fuel,  abounds  in 
the  vales  or  hollows  among  the  hills.  Aikerness,  Isbister, 
Swaney,  Rendall  Hall,  and  Burgar  are  chief  residences  ; 
and  the  first  was  the  birthplace  of  the  judge.  Sir  William 
Honyman,  Bart.  (1756-182S).  Numerous  tumuli  are  in 
Evie  ;  no  fewer  than  nine  Picts'  houses  stand  along  the 
shores  of  Evie  and  Rendall ;  and  a  small  old  farmhouse 
at  Cottascarth  in  Rendall,  on  being  taken  down  in  1832, 
was  found  to  have  concealed  in  its  walls  150  silver  coins, 
a  few  of  them  Scottish,  and  most  of  the  others  of  Eliza- 
beth, James  VI.,  and  Charles  I.  Two  proprietors  hold 
each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  4  of  between 
£100  and  £500,  5  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  6  of  from 
£20  to  £50.  Evie  and  Rendall  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Kirkwall  and  synod  of  Orkney ;  the  living  is  worth 
£307.  Evie  church,  built  towards  the  close  of  last 
century,  contains  498  sittings.  Other  places  of  worship 
are  Rendall  chapel  of  ease,  a  Free  church,  and  a  Congre- 
gational chapel ;  and  the  four  schools  of  Costa,  Evie, 
Kendall,  and  Gairsaj',  with  respective  accommodation 
for  65,  89,  86,  and  20  children,  had  (1882)  an  average 
attendance  of  31,  62,  45,  and  7,  and  grants  of  £41, 
7s.  6d.,  £50,  18s.,  £55,  12s.  6d.,  and  £4,  4s.  Valuation 
(1881)  £2163,  10s.  6d.  Pop.  (1801)  1415,  (1831)  1450, 
(1851)  1408,  (1871)  1340,  (1881)  1361. 

Evlix.     See  Evelis. 

Evert,  an  intricate  sea-loch  on  the  E  side  of  North 
Uist  island.  Outer  Hebrides,  Inverness-shire.  Opening 
3J  miles  S  of  Loch  Maddy,  it  penetrates  7  miles  west- 
ward, has  numerous  ramifications,  and  forms  a  safe 
harbour. 

Ewe,  a  river,  a  sea-loch,  and  an  island  of  Gairloch 
parish,  NW  Ross-shire.  The  river,  issuing  from  Loch 
Maree,  runs  3J  miles  west-north-westward  to  the  head  of 
the  sea-loch  at  Poolewe,  is  voluminous  but  rapid,  and, 
abounding  with  salmon  and  sea-trout  of  prime  size  and 
quality,  is  excelled  by  no  stream  in  the  W  of  Scotland 
for  angling.  The  sea-loch  extends  10  miles  north-north- 
westward from  Poolewe  to  the  North  Minch,  and  from 
a  width  of  3  miles  at  the  beautiful  little  bay  of  Aultbea 
contracts  to  IJ  mUe  below  Cove,  but  expands  again  to 
8J  miles  at  its  entrance  between  Ru  Rea  and  Greenstone 
Point.  Its  shores  are  rocky ;  its  flanks  bare,  broken, 
and  ridgy.  The  island  lies  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the 
sea-loch,  measures  2J  miles  by  1  mile,  and  has  a  pleasant 
cultivated  surface.  Pop.  (1861)  48,  (1871)  50,  (18S1) 
34. 

Ewes,  a  parish  in  the  NE  of  Eskdale,  E  Dumfries- 
shire, whose  church  stands,  400  feet  above  sea-level,  on 
the  right  bank  of  Ewes  Water,  4  miles  N  by  E  of  Lang- 
holm, the  post-town  and  station.  It  is  bounded  N  by 
Teviothead  in  Roxburghshire,  NE  and  E  by  Castleton, 
also  in  Roxburghshire,  SE  by  Canonbie,  SW  by  Lang- 
holm, and  W  by  Westerkirk.  Its  utmost  length,  from 
N  to  S,  is  9J  miles  ;  its  utmost  breadth,  from  E  to  W, 
is  7  miles ;  and  its  area  is  25,010  acres,  of  which  69J 
are  water.  From  Mosspaul  (827  feet),  one  of  its  two 
.sources.  Ewes  Watek  flows  9J  miles  south-by-west- 
ward, till  it  passes  into  Langholm  ;  whilst  from  Harts- 
garth  Hill,  another  of  the  Esk's  tributaries,  Taeeas 
Water,  runs  61  miles  south-south-westward,  then  1| 
mile  along  the  Canonbie  border.  The  entire  parish, 
582 


E7E 

then,  is  a  double  basin,  rimmed  on  three  sides  by  moun- 
tain watershed.  Along  Tarras  Water  its  surface  declines 
to  450,  along  Ewes  Water  to  370,  feet  above  the  sea  ;  and 
elevations  to  the  left  or  E  of  Ewes  Water,  northwards,  are 
Muckle  Knowe  (1186  feet),  *Watch  Hill  (1642),  Arkleton 
Hill  (1708),  *Koan  Fell  (1862),  Pike  Fell  (1637),  and  *Tud- 
hope  Hill  (1961),  where  asterisks  mark  those  summits 
that  culminate  on  the  confines  of  the  parish  ;  whDst  to 
the  right  or  W  of  the  Ewes  rise  *Addergill  HUl  (1276), 
♦Meg's  Shank  (1571),  Roughbank  Height  (1474),  *Faw 
Side  (1722),  and  *Wisp  HiU  (1950).  The  rocks  are 
mainly  greywacke  and  grejTvacke  slate,  but  include 
some  trap.  Less  than  1200  acres  is  arable,  and  some 
200  are  under  wood,  nearly  all  the  remainder  being 
pastoral.  Dorothy  Wordsworth,  who  with  her  brother 
drove  down  Ewesdale  on  23  Sept.  1803,  gives  us  a  vivid 
word-painting  of  the  landscape  : — '  Mosspaul,  the  inn 
where  we  were  to  bait.  The  scene,  -with  this  single 
dwelling,  was  melancholy  and  wild,  but  not  dreary, 
though  there  was  no  tree  nor  shrub  ;  the  small  streamlet 
glittered,  the  hills  were  populous  with  sheep ;  but  the 
gentle  bending  of  the  valley,  and  the  correspondent 
softness  in  the  forms  of  the  hills,  were  of  themselves 
enough  to  delight  the  eye.'  The  hills  are  unchanged, 
but  the  dwellers  among  them  have  altered  greatly  in 
the  last  two  centuries.  It  is  hardly  a  hundred  years 
since  the  Lords  of  Justiciary  rode  from  Jedburgh  to 
Dumfries  through  Ewesdale,  impassable  then  by  any 
vehicle.  Here  once,  when  Henry  Home  (the  after  Lord 
Kames)  went  for  the  first  time  on  the  circuit  as  advocate- 
depute,  Armstrong  of  Sorbie  inquired  of  Lord  Minto  in 
a  whisper,  '  What  lang,  black,  dour-looking  chiel'  that 
was  they  had  got  wi'  them  ? '  '  That,'  said  his  lordship, 
'  is  a  man  come  to  hang  a'  the  Armstrongs. '  '  Then, ' 
was  the  dry  retort,  'it's  time  the  EUiots  were  ridin'.' 
Now  the  parish  is  traversed  down  all  its  length  by  the 
high  road  from  Edinburtjh  to  Carlisle.  The  property  is 
divided  among  four.  Ewes  is  in  the  presbytery  ot 
Langholm  and  synod  of  Dumfries  ;  the  living  is  worth 
£389.  The  parish  church,  originally  dedicated  to  St 
Cuthbert,  isahandsome  Gothic  edifice  of  1867,  containing 
230  sittings ;  and  a  public  school,  with  accommodation 
for  60  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  32, 
and  a  grant  of  £40,  6s.  Valuation  (1860)  £5230,  (1882) 
£6663,  3s.  Pop.  (1801)  358,  (1831)  335,  (1861)  356, 
(1871)  338,  (1881)  337.— Ord  Sur.,  shs.  11,  10,  17, 
1863-64. 

Ewes.    See  Lttggate  Water. 

Ewesdale.     See  Ewes,  Dumfriesshii-e. 

Ewes  Water,  a  rivulet  of  Eskdale,  E  Dumfriesshire, 
formed  by  two  head-streams.  Blackball  and  Mosspaul 
Burns,  the  latter  of  which,  rising  near  Mosspaul  inn, 
close  to  the  Roxburghshire  border,  runs  2f  miles  south- 
by-westward,  whilst  Blackball  Burn  winds  3f  miles 
west-south-westward  from  its  source  on  the  western 
acclivity  of  Tudhope  Hill.  Onward  from  their  con- 
fluence Ewes  Water  flows  8  miles  south-by-westward, 
till,  after  a  total  descent  of  900  feet  from  its  highest  or 
Tudhope  source,  it  falls  into  the  Esk  at  Langholm  town. 
All  but  the  last  IJ  mile  of  its  course  lies  through  the 
parish  of  Ewes,  and  here  it  is  joined  by  Unthank, 
Meikledale,  Arkleton,  and  five  or  six  lesser  burns. 
Like  all  the  Esk's  tributaries,  the  Ewes  is  a  capital 
fronting  stream — its  river-trout  smallish,  four  or  so  to 
the  lb.,  but  its  sea-trout  running  from  1  lb.  to  3  lbs. — 
Orel.  Sur.,  shs.  17,  11,  1864-63. 

Exnaboe,  a  village  of  Dunrossness  parish,  in  the  S  of 
Shetland,  3  miles  from  Boddam  hamlet. 

Eye,  a  loch  on  the  mutual  border  of  Fearn  and  Tain 
parishes,  NE  Ross-shire,  f  mile  NE  of  Fearn  station. 
Lying  51  feet  above  sea-level,  it  has  an  utmost  length 
and  breadth  of  If  mile  and  4J  furlongs. —Ot-cZ.  Sur.,  sh. 
94,  1878. 

Eye,  a  small  river  of  NE  Berwickshire,  rising  on 
Monynut  Edge  at  an  altitude  of  1260  feet  above  sea- 
level,  and  2^  miles  SW  of  Oldhamstocks  village.  Thence 
it  winds  20  miles  east-south-eastward  and  north -north- 
eastward, till  it  falls  into  the  German  Ocean  at  Eye- 
mouth town.      It  traverses  or  bounds  the  parishes  of 


EYEBE0UGH7 

Oldhamstocks,  Cockburnspath,  Abbey  St  Bathans,  Cold- 
ingliam,  Ayton,  and  Eyemouth ;  receives,  midway 
between  Ayton  and  Eyemouth,  the  considerable  tribute 
of  Ale  "Water ;  traverses,  for  the  most  part,  a  naiTow 
vale  of  pleasant  aspect ;  is  followed,  along  great  part 
of  its  course,  and  frequently  crossed  and  recrossed,  by 
the  North  British  railway ;  and  abounds  in  trout  of 
small  size  but  excellent  quality. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  33, 
34,  1863-61 

Eyebroughy  or  Ibris,  a  basaltic  islet  of  Dirleton 
parish,  Haddingtonshire,  in  the  Firth  of  Forth,  J  mile 
from  the  mainland,  and  3|  mUes  W  by  N  of  North 
Berwick. 

Eyemouth,  a  fishing  town  and  a  parish  of  Berwick- 
shii-e.  The  town  stands  3  miles  NNE  of  Ayton,  and  2J 
NNW  of  Burnmouth  station,  this  being  5i  miles  NNW 
of  Berwick-upon-Tweed,  and  52  E  by  S  of  Edinbm-gh. 
The  river  Eye  here  falls  into  the  German  Ocean  at  the 
head  of  a  small  semicircular  bay,  immediately  S  of 
the  larger  bay  that  takes  its  name  from  Coldingliam 
Shore.  On  the  NW  side  are  precipitous  whinstone  rocks, 
and  the  cliffs  begin  to  rise  again  on  the  S  side  of  the 
river,  between  Eyemouth  and  Burnmouth  attaining  a 
height  of  from  70  to  339  feet  above  sea-level.  Out  at 
the  entrance  to  Eyemouth  Bay  are  the  '  Hurears,'  rocks 
upon  which  the  sea,  when  even  slightly  stirred,  breaks 
with  much  force  and  beauty.  The  place  itself  is  not  so 
greatly  altered  from  what  it  was  in  1827,  when 
Chambers's  Picture  of  Scotland  described  it  as  '  dark  and 
cunning  of  aspect,  full  of  cm-ious  alleys,  blind  and  other- 
wise, and  having  no  single  house  of  any  standing  but 
what  could  unfold  its  tale  of  wonder.'  Stories  of 
smugglers,  namely,  for  Eyemouth  in  last  century  was  a 
noted  seat  of  the  '  free-trade,'  and  many  of  the  older 
dwellings  retain  deep  hiding-holes  for  smuggled  goods. 
But,  though  the  streets  are  still  narrow  and  intricate,  a 
good  many  better-class  houses  had  been  built  within 
the  past  three  years,  and  the  town  showed  every  sign  of 
well-being  and  progress,  when  the  great  disaster  of 
1881  threw  it  back  to  what  it  was  fifteen  years  before. 
A  town-hall,  built  in  1874  at  a  cost  of  £1200,  is  a  hand- 
some Romanesque  structure  ;  a  fine  new  public-school 
was  erected  in  1876  ;  and  in  1880  part  of  the  old  parish 
school  was  opened  as  a  reading-room,  with  a  public 
library  of  2400  volumes.  Eyemouth,  besides,  has  a  post 
office  under  Ayton,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank, 
insurance,  and  telegraph  departments,  branches  of  the 
Commercial  and  Royal  Banks,  12  insurance  agencies, 
3  hotels,  a  gas  company  (1847),  water-works  (1856), 
now  under  the  management  of  the  Police  Commission, 
a  masonic  lodge,  St  Abb's  (1757),  a  cemetery,  and  fairs 
on  the  first  Thursday  of  June  and  the  last  Thursday  of 
October.  Places  of  worship  are  the  parish  church  (1812  ; 
450  sittings)  with  a  neat  spire,  a  fine  new  Free  church 
(187S  ;  450  sittings),  aU.P.  church(1842  ;  500  sittings), 
and  an  Evangelical  Union  chapel  (250  sittings). 

The  present  harbour  is  formed  by  a  stone  E  pier  of 
1768  (one  of  Smeaton's  earliest  designs),  and  a  short  W 
jetty,  with  an  entrance  between  them  154  feet  wide  ; 
but  it  is  wholly  inadequate,  and  will,  one  may  trust,  be 
ere  long  superseded  by  the  harbour  works  designed  by 
Messrs  Meek,  C.E.,  of  Edinburgh,  at  a  cost  of  £82,891. 
Of  this  total,  £22,232  are  for  inner  works,  viz. ,  extension 
of  basin-jetty  to  700  feet,  quay  on  outer  side  of  new 
basin  (600  feet),  undersetting  existing  cjuaj's,  etc.  ;  and 
£60,659  for  outer  works,  viz.,  E  pier  (440  feet),  W  pier 
(1050  feet),  middle  pier  (6S0  feet),  harbour  quay  (500 
feet),  etc.  The  outer  works  would  enclose  an  area  of  2  j 
acres,  or  treble  the  existing  available  area,  with  a  depth 
of  6  feet  at  low  water,  and  of  8  feet  at  the  entrance. 
Backed  by  strong  influence,  the  harbour  trustees  have 
applied  to  the  harbour  works  loan  board  for  £20,000,  as 
a  first  instalment  to  commence  the  works,  but  as  yet  it 
is  hard  to  say  what  will  be  the  result  of  this  application. 
Its  urgency  was  terribly  instanced  by  the  great  gale  of 
14  Oct.  1881,  which  cost  the  lives  of  191  fishermen 
belonging  to  fishing-ports  from  Burnmouth toNewhaven, 
129  of  them  to  Eyemouth  alone.  They  left  107  widows, 
60  adult  dependants,  and  351  children  under  15  years 


EYEMOUTH 

of  age,  for  whom  a  relief-fund  of  £50,000  was  raised, 
chiefly  in  Scotland.  Out  of  this  fund  widows  and  de- 
pendants get  6s.  per  week,  and  boys  and  girls  2s.  6d., 
the  boys  till  they  reach  the  age  of  14,  the  girls  of  15, 
years.  Up  to  the  As,y  of  the  disaster  48  boats  could  have 
mustered  at  Eyemouth  for  the  haddock  fishing ;  their 
number  now  is  reduced  to  28,  that  of  the  fishermen  from 
360  to  230.  The  Eyemouth  winter  fishing-boats  are 
among  the  largest  and  finest  in  Scotland ;  and  the 
fishermen  among  the  best  and  most  energetic  to  be  any- 
where met  with.  From  October  1881  to  June  1882 
about  1050  tons  of  haddocks,  of  a  value  to  the  fishermen 
of  £13,000,  were  caught  by  the  28  crews  of  the  place, 
these  crews  consisting  of  6  or  7  men  each.  In  the 
capture,  900  tons  of  mussels,  costing  £1800,  were  used 
as  bait,  almost  the  whole  of  which  was  brought  by  rail 
from  Boston  in  England.  Prior  to  the  disaster  nearly 
100  boats  belonging  to  Eyemouth  were  engaged  in  the 
herring  fishery  ;  now  they  are  reduced  to  70.  In  each 
of  these  boats  from  2  to  4  hired  hands  from  other  places 
are  employed.  Eyemouth  is  head  of  a  fishery  district 
marching  with  that  of  Leith,  and  extending  from  St 
Abb's  Head  southward  to  Amble.  In  this  district  the 
number  of  boats  in  1882  was  601,  of  fishermen  1627,  of 
fish-curers  58,  and  of  coopers  181,  whilst  the  value  of 
boats  was  £44,691,  of  nets  £42,528,  and  of  lines  £6864. 
The  following  is  the  number  of  barrels  of  herrings  cured 
here  in  difi'erent  years— (1864)  43,458,  (1871)  46,127, 
(1873)  42,939,  (1874)  52,060,  (1878)  18,056,  (1879) 
58,177,  (1880)  58,639,  (1881)  67,915. 

As  a  dependency  of  Coldingham  priory,  and  the  only 
harbour  within  its  limits,  E3'eraouth  acquired  early  im- 
portance, being  known  in  the  reign  of  Alexander  II. 
(1214-49)  as  a  commodious  haven  for  the  import  of  sup- 
plies, and  the  shipment  of  wool,  hides,  etc.  On  a  smaU 
bold  promontory,  called  the  Fort,  to  the  N  of  the  town, 
is  a  series  of  grassy  mounds,  remains  of  a  fortification, 
erected  by  the  Protector  Somerset  in  his  invasion  of 
Scotland,  and  reconstructed  by  Mary  of  Lorraine  and 
Cromwell.  An  Eyemouth  notary -public,  George  Sprott, 
was  executed  in  1608  for  being  privy  to  the  Gowrie 
Conspiracy,  into  which  he  was  di-awn  by  Logan  of  Fast 
Castle  ;  from  Eyemouth  the  Duke  of  Marlborough  as- 
sumed his  first  title  of  Baron  in  the  peerage  of  Scotland. 
But  none  of  its  other  memories  are  equal  in  interest  to 
that  thus  jotted  do-\Tn  in  'Byxms'sBorder  Tour: — 'Friday, 
18  May  1787.  Come  up  a  bold  shore  from  Berwick, 
and  over  a  wild  country  to  Eyemouth — sup  and  sleep  at 
Mr  Grieve's.  Saturday.  — Spend  the  day  at  Mr  Grieve's 
— made  a  royal  arch  mason  of  St  Abb's  lodge.  Mr 
William  Grieve,  the  oldest  brother,  a  joyous,  warm- 
hearted, jolly,  clever  fellow  ;  takes  a  hearty  glass,  and 
sings  a  good  song.  Mr  Robert,  his  brother  and  partner 
in  trade,  a  good  fellow,  but  says  little.  Take  a  sail 
after  dinner.  Fishing  of  all  kinds  pays  tithes  at  Eye- 
mouth. '  The  entry  in  the  lodge  books  shows  that  he 
was  admitted  gratis,  on  the  score  of  his  '  remarkable 
poetical  genius.'  In  1597,  by  a  charter  from  James  VI. 
in  favour  of  Sir  George  Home  of  Wedderburn,  Eyemouth 
was  erected  into  a  free  burgh  of  barony,  with  the  privi- 
lege of  a  free  port ;  but  having  adopted  the  General 
Police  and  Improvement  Act  (Scotland)  in  1866,  it  now 
is  governed  by  a  body  of  nine  commissioners.  Its 
municipal  constituency  numbered  568  in  1882,  when 
the  annual  value  of  real  property  within  the  burgh  was 
£5745.  Pop.  (1831)  1100,  (1861)  1721,  (1871)  2324, 
(1881)  2825,  or,  with  Ayton  suburb,  2877. 

The  parish  was  anciently  included  in  the  territory  of 
Coldingham  Priory,  and  did  not  assume  a  parochial  form 
earlier  than  the  reign  of  James  VI.  It  still  encloses  the 
Highlaws  detached  portion  (SOf  acres)  of  Coldingham 
parish.  Bounded  N  by  the  German  Ocean,  E,  S,  and  SW 
by  Ayton,  and  W  by  Coldingham,  it  has  an  utmost 
length  from  N  to  S  of  If  mile,  an  utmost  breadth  from 
E  to  W  of  1^  mile,  and  an  area  of  1079J  acres,  of  which 
64  are  foreshore  and  llj  water.  Ete  Water  flows  1^ 
mile  north-north-eastward  along  the  eastern  border  to 
Eyemouth  Bay ;  and  Ale  Water,  flowing  If  mile  east-by- 
southward  to  the  Eye,  traces  all  the  south-western  and 

583 


EYEMOtTTH 

soutliem  boundary.  The  coast  rises  90  feet  from  tlie 
sea  in  rocky  precipitous  cliffs,  wHch  here  and  there  are 
channelled  by  deep  fissures  or  gullies,  and  at  one  place 
are  pierced  by  a  cavern  ;  except  at  two  points  where 
roads  have  been  scooped  down  its  Assures,  and  at  Eye- 
mouth, where  it  is  dissevered  by  the  Eye,  it  admits  no 
access  to  the  beach.  The  interior  is  undulating,  or 
slightly  hilly,  attaining  212  feet  above  sea-level  at  a 
point  on  the  Coldingham  road  7  furlongs  W  of  the  town, 
252  at  Highlaws,  and  305  on  the  western  boundary. 
The  rocks  comprise  traps,  greywacke,  and  Old  Red  sand- 
stone, in  such  connections  one  with  another  as  are  emi- 
nently interesting  to  geologists.  The  soil  in  general  is 
fertile.  All  the  land,  since  the  latter  part  of  last  century, 
has  been  in  productive  condition.  Linthill  House,  over- 
looking the  confluence  of  the  Ale  and  the  Eye,  1^  mile 
S  by  W  of  the  town,  is  an  old  mansion,  and  was  the  scene, 
in  1752,  of  the  murder  of  the  widow  of  its  proprietor, 
Patrick  Home.      Milne-Home  of  Wedderburn  is  chief 


EYNOET 

proprietor,  7  others  holding  each  an  annual  value  of 
between  £100  and  £500,  11  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  42 
of  from  £20  to  £50.  Eyemouth  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Chirnside  and  synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale ;  the  living 
is  worth  £279.  The  public  school,  with  accommodation 
for  800  chUdren,  had  (1882)  an  average  attendance  of 
450,  and  a  grant  of  £387.  Valuation  (1865)  £5624, 
14s.  Id.,  (1882)  £9084,  lis.  Pop.  (1801)  899,  (1831) 
1181,  (1851)  14SS,  (1861)  1804,  (1871)  2372,  (1881) 
2935.— OrtZ.  Sur.,  sh.  34,  1864. 

Eylt,  Loch.     See  Eanxooh. 

Eynort,  a  sea-loch  in  the  E  of  South  Uist  island.  Outer 
Hebrides,  Inverness-shire.  Opening  at  a  point  84  miles 
N  of  the  south-eastern  extremity  of  the  island,  it  strikes 
6  miles  north-westward  to  within  a  brief  distance  of  the 
western  coast ;  and,  with  a  very  irregular  outline,  ex- 
hibits wild  and  picturesque  features  of  scenery,  that 
only  want  trees  or  copsewood  to  render  it  in  many 
places  enchantingly  beautiful. 


I 


584 


ORDNANCE     GAZETTEER 


OF 


SCOTLAND. 


FAD  (Gael,  fada,  'long'),  a  narrow  loch  on  the 
mutual  border  of  Rothesay  and  Kingarth  parishes, 
Isle  of  Bute.  Lying  48  feet  above  sea-level,  it 
extends  2i  miles  north-north-eastward,  varies  in 
width  between  1  and  2J  furlongs,  and  sends  off  a  stream 
7  furlongs  north-by-eastward  to  Rothesay  Bay  at  Rothe- 
say town.  It  presents  in  its  scenery  a  miniature  of  some 
of  the  most  admired  lakes  in  the  Highlands  ;  contains 
perch,  pike,  and  trout ;  and  has,  on  its  western  shore, 
2  miles  SSW  of  Rothesay,  a  neat  two-story  house,  Wood- 
end  or  Eean's  Cottage,  built  in  1827  by  the  tragedian 
Edmund  Kean  (1787-1833),  and  afterwards  occupied 
by  Sheridan  Knowles  (1784-1862).— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  29, 
1873. 

Fad,  a  lake  near  the  centre  of  Colonsay  island,  Jura 
parish,  Argyllshire. 

Fad,  a  lake  in  Portree  parish.  Isle  of  Skye,  Inverness- 
shire,  3J  miles  NNE  of  Portree  town.  Measuring  J  by 
\  mile,  it  teems  with  ti-out,  and  sends  off  a  streamlet  5 
furlongs  north-north-eastward  to  Loch  Leathan  (1  X 1 
mile),  which  streamlet,  issuing  from  that  loch,  proceeds 
f  mile  north-eastward  to  the  cliffs,  and  there  descends 
to  the  sea  in  a  clear  leap  of  300  feet. 

Fad.     See  IxcH  Fad. 

Fada.     See  Ellau-Fada. 

Fada-Lochan,  a  lake  of  Gairloch  parish,  NW  Eoss- 
shire.  Lying  1000  feet  above  sea-level,  and  928  acres  in 
area,  it  has  an  utmost  length  and  width  of  3  j  miles  and 
5  furlongs.  Two  streams  flow  from  it — one  4j  mUes 
south-south-westward  to  Loch  Maree,  near  its  head ;  the 
other  2|  miles  north-westward  to  Fionn  Loch. — Ord. 
Stir.,  sh.  92,  1881. 

Faichfield,  an  estate,  with  an  old  mansion,  in  Long- 
side  parish,  Aberdeenshire,  4  miles  W  of  Peterhead,  and 
2|  ESE  of  Longside  station. 

Faifley.     See  Duntocher. 

Fail,  a  rivulet  and  the  site  of  a  monastery  in  Tarbol- 
tou  parish,  Ayrshire.  The  Water  of  Fail,  rising  in 
Craigie  parish,  winds  7i  miles  south-eastward,  till  below 
CoiLsriELD  or  Montgomerie  it  falls  into  the  river  Ayr 
at  FaUford,  22  miles  WSW  of  Mauchline.  The  monas- 
tery, St  Mary's,  stood  on  the  right  bank  of  the  rivulet, 
H  mile  NNW  of  Tarbolton  town,  and,  founded  in 
1252  by  Andrew  Bruce  for  Red  or  Trinity  friars,  was 
cast  down  by  the  lords  of  council  in  1561,  when  its 
lands  fell  to  the  Wallace  family.  One  old  satirical 
poem  says  of  its  friars,  that  'they  never  wanted  gear 
enough  as  long  as  their  neighbours'  lasted ; '  and 
another  runs — 

'  Tlie  triars  of  Fail  drank  berrs'-brown  ale, 
The  best  that  ever  was  tasted ; 
The  monks  of  Melrose  made  crude  kail, 
On  Fridays,  when  they  fasted." 

Failford.    See  Fail. 
Falray.     See  Piiaeay. 

Fairbum  Tower,  a  ruined  stronghold  of  the  Mac- 
37a 


kenzies  in  Urray  parish,  Eoss-shire,  near  the  left  bank 
of  the  Orrin,  and  2J  miles  S  by  E  of  Contin. 

Fairfolk,  a  tumulus  near  the  summit  of  Carmyllie  Hill, 
in  Carmyllie  parish,  Forfarshire.  Popular  superstition 
long  regarded  it  as  a  favourite  haunt  of  fairies.  Part  of 
it  was,  many  years  ago,  thrown  down,  and  found 
to  contain  a  small  brass  ring  and  some  fragments  of 
bones. 

Fairholm,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  the  SE  of 
Hamilton  parish,  Lanarkshire,  on  the  left  bank  of 
Avon  Water,  1  j  mile  W  of  Larkhall. 

Fairies'  Dyke.     See  Cumeeae,  Gkeat. 

Fair  Isle  (Scand. /arr,  'a  sheep'),  an  island  of  Dunross- 
ness  parish,  Shetland,  29  miles  SSW  of  Sumburgh  Head, 
and  nearly  midway  between  Shetland  and  Orkney. 
It  measures  3  miles  in  length,  and  nearly  2  in 
breadth ;  is  inaccessible  except  at  one  point  on  the 
NE ;  and  rises  into  three  lofty  promontories.  One  of 
these,  the  Sheep  Craig,  is  nearly  insulated,  has  a  conical 
shape,  and  rises  to  the  height  of  480  feet.  The  upper 
grounds  are  mostly  covered  vnih  excellent  sheep  pasture, 
and  the  lower  are  fairly  fertile,  but  the  island  does  not 
raise  grain  enough  for  its  inhabitants.  These,  who 
dwell  chiefly  in  the  middle  vale,  are  engaged — the  men 
in  fishing,  and  the  women  in  hosiery.  'The  art  of  knit- 
ting woollen  articles  of  various  colours  and  curious  pat- 
terns is  said  to  have  been  taught  the  islanders  by  the 
200  Spaniards  who  escaped  from  the  wreck  at  Strom- 
ceiler  Creek  of  the  flagship  of  the  Duke  de  Medina 
Sidonia,  the  admii-al  of  the  Spanish  Armada,  when  re- 
treating in  1588  before  the  English  squadron.  In  1868 
a  German  emigrant  ship  went  full  sail  into  Sheltie  Cave  ; 
but  this  time  happily  no  lives  were  lost.  Canada  has 
from  time  to  time  received  a  good  deal  of  the  surplus 
population,  and  in  1874  there  was  serious  talk  of  an 
emigration  en  ■masse  to  New  Zealand.  There  is  an 
Established  mission  church  ;  and  a  public  school,  with 
accommodation  for  56  children,  had  (1880)  an  average 
attendance  of  24,  and  a  grant  of  £29,  15s.  Pop. 
(1801)  160,  (1841)  232,  (1861)  380,  (1871)  236,  (1881) 
214. 

Fairlaw,  an  estate,  vdth  a  mansion,  in  Coldingham 
parish,  Berwickshire,  2  miles  WSW  of  Reston  station. 

Fairley  or  Farland  Head.     See  Kilbride,  West. 

Fairlie,  a  coast  village  and  a  quoad  sacra  parish  in 
the  S  of  Largs  parish,  NW  Ayrshire.  Sheltered  east- 
ward by  uplands  that  rise  to  a  height  of  1331  feet,  the 
village  is  charmingly  seated  on  the  Firth  of  Clyde,  1§ 
mile  E  of  Great  Cumbrae  by  water,  2f  miles  S  by  E  of 
Largs  by  road,  and  4J  N  of  West  Kilbride  by  an  exten- 
sion of  the  Glasgow  and  South-Western  railway,  opened 
on  1  June  1880,  and  traversing  at  the  back  of  the 
village  one  of  the  longest  tunnels  in  the  S  of  Scotland. 
A  century  since  it  was  only  a  tiny  fishing  hamlet,  but 
now  it  has  several  handsome  villas,  an  Established 
church  (1833  ;  300  sittings),  a  Free  church,  a  school, 
2  inns,  a  post  office,  with  money  order  and  savings 

1 


FAIELIE 

bant  departments,  2  railway  stations,  of  wliicli  that 
at  the  Pier  is  a  fine  erection  of  1882,  a  steamboat  pier 
(1882),  and  a  j-acht  building-yard,  wliicb,  dating  from 
X812,  lias  turned  out  some  of  the  finest  clippers  afloat. 
Keleukne  Castle  stands  IJ  mile  to  the  N  ;  and  at  the 
village  itself  is  Fairlie  House,  the  seat  of  Charles  Stuart 
Parker,  Esq.  (b.  1829),  M.P.  for  Perthshire  from  1868 
to  1874,  and  for  Perth  from  1878,  who  owns  2  acres 
in  the  shire,  valued  at  £100  per  annum.  Fairlie 
Burn,  rising  on  Fairlie  Moor  (1100  feet),  and  hurrying 
2  mile.s  westward  to  the  Firth  along  the  boundary 
between  Largs  and  West  Kilbride,  threads  in  its  lower 
course  a  lovely  glen.  Here,  on  a  roimded  knoll,  above 
a  waterfall,  stands  the  ruins  of  Fairlie  Castle,  a  square 
tower,  built  in  1521,  the  seat  of  Fairlies  of  that  ilk  who 
fimire  from  the  14th  to  the  18th  century.  Elizabeth 
Halket,  Lady  WarcUaw  (1677-1727),  laid  in  this  tower 
the  scene  of  her  fine  ballad  Hardyknute.  The  quoad 
sacra  parish  is  in  the  pi-esbytery  of  Greenock  and  synod 
of  Glasgow  and  Ayr.  Pop.  of  village  (1871)  294,  (1881) 
672  ;  oiq.  s.  parish  (1871)  313,  (1881)  771.— Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  21,  1870.  See  pp.  82-85  of  Wemyss  Bay  (Paisley, 
1879). 

Fairlie,  a  mansion  in  Newhills  parish,  Aberdeenshire, 
5J  mUes  W  by  N  of  Aberdeen.  It  is  a  seat  of  the 
owner  of  Tonlet. 

Fairlie  House,  a  mansion  in  Dundonald  parish,  Ayr- 
shire, on  the  left  bank  of  the  Irvine,  1  mile  SW  of 
Gatehead  station,  and  SJ  miles  WSW  of  Kilmarnock. 
It  was  the  seat  of  the  Fairlies  of  Robertland  and  Fairlie, 
of  whom  Sir  Charles  Arthur  Cuningham-Fairlie  (b. 
1846)  succeeded  in  1881  as  tenth  Bart,  since  1630. 

Fairport.    See  Arbroath. 

Fairway,  a  sunken  rock  of  Dunfermline  parish,  Fife, 
in  the  Firth  of  Forth  S  of  the  E  end  of  Long  Craigs. 
It  is  covered,  at  lowest  stream  ebb,  by  5J  or  6  feet  of 
water. 

Fairy-Bridge,  a  place  in  Duirinish  parish,  Isle  of 
Skye,  Inverness-shire,  3  miles  from  Dunvegan.  An 
annual  fair  is  held  at  it  for  the  sale  of  black  cattle. 

Fairy-Knowe,  an  eminence  in  Lecropt  parish,  Perth- 
shire, near  Sunnylaw  farm,  in  the  vicinity  of  Bridge  of 
Allan.  It  is  crowned  with  an  ancient  Caledonian  camp, 
15  feet  high. 

Fala  and  Soutra,  a  united  parish  of  Edinburgh  and 
Haddington  shires,  containing  in  its  Fala  or  ilidlothian 
portion  the  village  of  Fala,  whose  post  office  is  Black- 
shiels,  and  which  stands  3  J  miles  SE  of  Pathhead,  15i 
SE  of  Edinburgh,  and  3|  ENE  of  Tynehead  station^ 
The  parish,  containing  also  part  of  the  hamlet  of  Fala 
Dam,  I  mile  to  the  NW,  is  bounded  NE  by  Humble, 
SE  by  Channelkirk  in  Berwickshire,  S  by  Stow,  SW  by 
Heriot,  W  by  detached  sections  of  Stow,  Borthwick, 
Cranston,  and  Humble,  and  NW  by  Crichton.  Its 
utmost  length,  from  N"NE  to  SSW,  is  5  mUes ;  its 
breadth,  from  WNW  to  ESE,  varies  between  1  mile  and 
3J  miles ;  and  its  area  is  6066|  acres,  of  which  3126A 
belong  to  the  Edinburghshire  or  Fala  portion,  and 
2940J  to  the  Haddingtonshire  or  Soutra  portion.  By 
Brothershiels  Burn,  Dean  Burn,  and  East  Water,  Fala 
is  parted  from  Soutra ;  and  Armit  Water  runs  south- 
south-westward  towards  the  Gala  along  most  of  the 
Channelkirk  border.  In  the  extreme  N  the  surface 
declines  to  600  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  to  819 
near  Fala  village,  1209  at  Soutra  Hill,  and  1250  at 
Upper  Brotherstone.  The  whole  is  upland,  then ;  but 
the  northern  section,  comprising  somewhat  less  than 
half  of  the  entire  area,  is  gently  undulating,  fertile,  and 
well  cultivated,  whUst  the  southern  mainly  consists  of 
the  westernmost  part  of  the  Lammermuirs,  and,  with 
the  exception  of  a  few  arable  patches,  is  all  of  it  one  great 
sheep-walk.  The  rocks  are  mainly  Silurian  ;  and  the 
soil  in  general  is  thin  and  gravelly.  A  large  moss, 
Fala  Flow,  IJ  mile  SSW  of  the  village,  has  been  con- 
siderably reduced  by  draining  since  1842,  but  still 
supplies  great  quantities  of  peat.  Peel  towers  stood  at 
Fala  Hall  and  Gilston  ;  but  the  chief  antiquity,  an 
ancient  hospice,  is  separately  noticed  under  Soutra.  A 
mansion  is  Woodcot,  If  mile  E  by  S  of  the  village;  and 
2 


FALKIRK 

4  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of  more,  2  of 
less,  than  £500.  This  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Dalkeith  and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale ;  the 
living  is  worth  £233.  The  church,  at  the  village,  is  a 
plain  old  building,  containing  250  sittings.  There  is 
also  a  U.P.  church  (1787  ;  250  sittings) ;  and  a  public 
school,  with  accommodation  for  80  children,  had  (1880) 
an  average  attendance  of  64,  and  a  gi'ant  of  £64,  2s.  8d. 
Valuation  (1882)  £2697,  18s.  Pop.  (1801)  354,  (1831) 
437,  (1861)  382,  (1871)  364,  (1881)  312,  of  whom  111 
were  in  Soutra.— OrcZ.  Sur.,  shs.  33,  25,  1863-65. 

Fala  Dam.    See  Crichton  and  Fala. 

Faldonside,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Galashiels 
parish,  Roxburghshire,  4  J  miles  W  by  S  of  Melrose.  Its 
owner.  Miss  Milne,  holds  1100  acres  in  the  shire,  valued 
at  £1499  per  annum. 

Falfield,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Kilconquhar 
parish,  Fife,  3 J  mUes  ESE  of  Ceres. 

Falkirk,  a  town  and  parish  of  SE  Stirlingshire.  A 
parliamentary  burgh,  a  seat  of  considerable  trade  and 
industry,  and  the  virtual  capital  of  the  south-eastern 
portion  of  the  county,  the  town  stands  near  the  south- 
ern bank  of  the  Forth  and  Clyde  Canal,  and  Z\  miles  SE 
of  the  right  shore  of  the  Firth  of  Forth.  By  road  it  is  If 
mile  SSE  of  Carron  Iron-works,  and  7J  miles  ENE  of 
Linlithgow  ;  whilst  from  two  North  British  stations — 
Grahamston,  on  the  Polmont  and  Larbert  loop-line 
(1852),  at  the  town,  and  Falkirk,  on  the  Edinburgh 
and  Glasgow  section  (1842),  |  mile  SSW — it  is  25J  miles 
W  by  N  of  Edinburgh,  3  SW  of  Grangemouth,  11  SSE 
of  Stirling,  and  21 1  ENE  of  Glasgow.  The  site  is  partly 
a  gentle  hill-side,  partly  low  level  ground  on  the  southern 
skirt  of  the  Carse  of  Forth,  and  commands  magnificent 
views  of  the  Ochils,  the  Denny  and  Campsie  Hills,  and 
the  Grampian  Mountains.  The  town  itself,  as  seen  from 
vantage  grounds  to  the  N  and  NW,  presents  a  striking 
appearance,  and  forms  a  fine  foreground  to  the  beautiful 
prospect  beyond,  but,  when  one  enters  it,  disappoints 
expectation,  and,  for  its  size  and  importance,  has  few 
attractions  to  offer.  Falkirk  proper,  as  a  whole,  is  still 
old-fashioned  and  irregular  ;  but  its  far-spreading  sub- 
urbs, Grahamston,  Forganhall,  Arnothill,  etc.,  comprise 
a  number  of  good  recent  streets,  rows,  villas,  and  cot- 
tages ;  and  its  environs  are  beautified  by  the  woods  of 
Cajllend-AR,  Bastaskine,  and  other  mansions. 

The  town  steeple,  in  the  market-place,  rebuilt  in  1813 
on  the  site  of  a  tower  of  1697,  is  146  feet  high,  and  con- 
tains a  clock  and  two  bells  ;  immediately  W  of  it  is  a 
stone  equestrian  statue  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  erected 
by  public  subscripition  in  1854.  The  burgh  buildings 
and  prison  (1866-69)  are  Scottish  Baronial  in  style,  and 
comprise  a  mansard-roofed  SE  tower,  60  feet  high,  a 
spacious  court-hall,  and  a  council-room ;  the  prison,  con- 
taining nine  cells,  since  1878  has  merely  served  as  a 
place  of  imprisonment  for  terms  of  not  more  than  four- 
teen days.  The  town-haU,  Italian  in  style,  and  seated 
for  upwards  of  1600  persons,  is  the  corn  exchange  of 
1859,  reconstructed  in  1879  at  a  cost  of  over  £5000. 
Italian,  too,  is  the  Science  and  Art  School,  which, 
opened  by  the  Earl  of  Rosebery  in  1878,  has  a  large 
hall  and  five  smaller  ones,  among  them  a  chemical  labo- 
ratory. Other  noteworthy  edifices  are  the  National 
Bank  (1863),  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association 
Hall  (1880),  and  the  Catholic  Institute  (1881). 

The  cruciform  parish  church,  said  to  have  been  founded 
by  Malcolm  Ceannmor(1057-93),  and  to  have  been  granted 
in  1166  by  the  Bishop  of  St  Andrews  to  Holyrood  Abbey, 
was  razed  to  the  ground  in  1810,  when  two  '  most  inter- 
esting' inscriptions  were  found  in  the  debris — inscrip- 
tions whose  faulty  Latinity  and  faultier  chronology 
should  at  once  have  stamped  them  for  palpable  forgeries. 
The  present  church  of  1811  is  a  plain  be-galleried  edifice, 
with  stained-glass  windows  and  1300  sittings.  The 
ancient  steeple  of  its  predecessor,  130  feet  high,  upborne 
on  four  lofty  arches,  serves  for  its  vestibule,  and  contains 
a  marble  monument  to  the  Rev.  John  Brown  Paterson 
(1804-35),  with  four  life-size  elfigies,  which,  believed  to  be 
those  of  the  earliest  feudal  lords  of  Callendar,  lay  in  the 

5  transept  of  the  old  church,  and  were  transferred  to  their 


FALKIRK 

present  position  in  1S52.  There  are,  besides,  Grahams- 
ton  quoad  sacra  church,  Falkirk  and  Bainsford  Free 
churches,  West,  East,  and  Grahara's  Koad  U.P. 
churches.  Evangelical  Union,  Congregationalist,  and 
Baptist  chapels.  Episcopal  Christ  Chui-ch,  and  Roman 
Catholic  St  Francis  Xavier's.  Of  these,  Grahamston 
quoad  sacra  church  (1874-75  ;  800  sittings)  is  an  Early 
French  Gothic  edifice,  whose  high-pitched  front  gable  is 
flanked  by  two  steeples,  120  and  62  feet  high  ;  Graliam's 
Koad  U.P.  church  (1878-79  ;  600  sittings)  is  a  striking 
example  of  Gothic,  with  square  tower  and  octagonal 
spire,  110  feet  high  ;  and  Gothic  also  are  Bainsford  Free 
church  (1879  ;  450  sittings),  Christ  Church  (1864  ;  200 
sittings),  and  St  Francis  (1843  ;  600  sittings). 

Since  the  passing  of  the  Education  Act  of  1872,  much 
has  been  done  in  the  burgh  in  behalf  of  education, 
£8592  having  been  expended  between  1873  and  1879  in 
enlarging  the  Central  or  old  Free  Church  school,  and 
in  building  the  Northern,  Comely  Park,  and  Bains- 
ford schools.  In  the  year  ending  15  May  1881,  the 
five  public  schools  under  the  burgh  board — Southern, 
Central,  Northern,  Bainsford,  and  Comely  Park — with 
respective  accommodation  for  402,  348,  401,  300,  and 
300  children,  had  an  average  attendance  of  365,  265, 
416,  205,  and  302,  and  grants  of  £354,  7s.  6d.,  £221,  17s., 
£408,  2s.  3d.,  £176,  15s.,  and  £278,  3s.  7d.  A  hand- 
some new  Roman  Catholic  school,  accommodating  200 
children,  was  opened  in  1881 ;  and  there  are  also  a 
Ragged  and  Industrial  School  (1857)  and  Falkirk  Aca- 
demy, which  gives  instruction  in  English,  classics, 
modern  languages,  mathematics,  science,  and  music. 

Falkirk  has  a  new  post  office  (1882),  with  money  order, 
savings'  bank,  insurance,  and  railway  telegraph  depart- 
ments, branches  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland  and  the  Clydes- 
dale, Commercial,  National,  and  Royal  Banks,  a  National 
Securities  Savings'  Bank  (1845),  offices  or  agencies  of 
27  insurance  companies,  6  hotels,  and  2  newspapers — 
the  Thui'sday  and  Saturday  Liberal  FalHrk  Herald 
(1846)  and  the  Saturday  Conservative  Falkirk  Express 
(1880).  Thursday  is  market-day ;  and  cattle  markets 
are  held  on  the  last  Thursday  of  January,  the  first 
Thursday  of  March,  and  the  Thursday  before  the  third 
Friday  of  April,  cattle  and  horse  markets  on  the  third 
Thursday  of  May  and  the  second  Thursday  of  July,  and 
hiring  fairs  on  the  first  Thursday  of  April  and  the  last 
Thursday  of  October.  The  famous  Falkirk  Trysts  on 
Stenhousemuir,  3  miles  to  the  NNW,  are  held,  for 
cattle  and  horses,  on  the  second  Tuesday  and  Wednes- 
day of  August,  September,  and  October ;  for  sheep, 
on  the  Monday  before  the  September  and  October  Trysts ; 
and  for  hiring,  on  the  last  Thursday  of  October  and  the 
first  Tuesday  of  November.  Transferred  hither  from 
Crieff  about  1770,  these  Trysts  are  among  the  largest 
cattle  markets  in  the  kingdom.  The  town  conducts  an 
extensive  retail  trade,  and  serves  as  the  centre  to  a 
busy  and  populous  district.  In  or  close  to  it  are  Aitken's 
large  and  long  -  established  brewery,  2  distilleries,  7 
chemical  and  dynamite  works,  3  fire-brick  and  tile- 
yards,  and  a  leather  factory ;  but  iron-founding  is  the 
staple  industry.*  The  Falkirk  Iron- works,  started  in 
1819  by  a  colony  of  workmen  from  Cakkon,  came  to  its 
present  proprietors,  the  Messrs  Kennard,  in  1848,  and 
now  is  second  only  to  Carrou  itself.  The  buildings 
cover  8  acres ;  and  the  employes,  900  men  and  boys, 
turn  out  weekly  more  than  300  tons  of  castings — stoves, 
grates,  viaduct  girders,  garden  seats,  verandahs,  etc. 
Here,  during  the  Crimean  War,  16,000  tons  of  shot  and 
shell  were  manufactured.  Other  works,  with  date  of 
establishment  and  number  of  hands  employed,  are  the 
Union  Foundry  (1854 ;  100),  Abbot's  Foundry  (1856  ; 
120),  Burnbank  Foundrv  (1860 ;  140),  Gowanbank  Iron- 
works (1864 ;  300),  Grahamston  Iron-works  (1862 ;  350), 
Camelon  Iron  Co.  (1872;  180),  Parkhouse  Iron  Co. 
(1875  ;  100),  Gael  Foundry  (1875 ;  40),  Port  Downie 
(1875  ;  100),  Forth  and  Clyde  Iron-works  (1876  ;  80), 
Springfield  Iron-works  (1876;  20),  Etna  Foundry  (1877 ; 
120),  and  CaUendar  Iron  Co.  (1877  ;  80). 

*  So  long  ago  as  1695  we  find  the  Darien  Company  contracting 
Sor  Falkirk  smith  and  cutlery  work. 


Seal  o£  Falkirk. 


FALKIRK 

The  town  was  made  a  burgh  of  barony  in  1600,  and  a 
burgh  of  regality  in  1646,  its  afiau's  being  managed  till 
1850  by  a  body  of 
28  '  stint  -  masters ' 
or  feuars  elected  by 
the  different  trades. 
Now  the  burgh — 
since  July  1882 
divided  into  four 
wards — is  governed 
by  a  provost,  3 
bailies,  a  treasurer, 
a  town-clerk,  and 
9  councillors,  who 
also  are  commis- 
sioners of  police 
under  the  Falkirk 
PoUce  and  Improve- 
ment Act  of  1859. 
With  Airdrie,  Ha- 
milton, Lanark,  and  Linlithgow,  it  sends  one  member 
to  parliament  (always  a  Liberal  since  1857),  Falkirk 
being  the  returning  burgh.  The  corporation  revenue 
was  £4480  in  1881,  and  the  parliamentary  and  municipal 
constituency  numbered  1508  in  1882,  when  the  annual 
value  of  real  property  amounted  to  £43,209,  against 
£23,487  in  1874.  Pop.  (1841)  8209,  (1851)  8752,  (1861) 
9030,  (1871)  9547,  (1881)  13,170,  of  whom  6743  were 
males,  and  6427  females.  Houses  (1881)  2721  inhabited, 
114  building,  9  vacant.    Pop.  with  suburbs  (1881)  15, 599. 

Falkirk  in  Latin  is  termed  Varia  Capella,  and  still 
is  kno'svn  to  Highlanders  as  Eaglaisbreac.  Both  mean 
'  the  speckled  church,'  or  '  the  church  of  the  mixed 
people  ; '  and  Falkirk,  or  rather  Pawkirk,  is  the  Saxon 
equivalent  for  the  same,  being  compounded  of  A.-S. 
fall,  'of  various  colours,'  and  circe,  'kirk  or  church.' 
Antoninus'  Wall  passed  just  to  the  S,  and  various 
Roman  relics  have  from  time  to  time  been  found.  St 
Modan,  fellow-worker  with  St  Ronan,  on  a  mission 
connected  with  the  Romish  party,  appears  to  have  been 
here  about  the  year  717  ;  and  in  1080,  in  revenge  for 
Malcolm  Ceannmor's  devastation  of  Northumberland, 
William  the  Conqueror  sent  his  son  Robert  to  Scot- 
land, '  who,  having  gone  as  far  as  Egglcshrcfh,  returned 
without  accomplishing  anything.'  Prior  to  Sauchie- 
bm-n  (1488)  the  discontented  nobles  occupied  Falkirk, 
whose  old  church  witnessed  a  solemn  subscription  of 
the  League  and  Covenant  in  1643,  and  which  two 
years  later  was  decimated  by  the  plague.  These  are 
the  leading  events  in  Falkirk's  history,  besides  the  two 
battles  and  passing  visits  from  Robert  Burns  (25  Aug. 
1787),  from  Wordsworth  and  his  sister  Dorothy  (14 
Sept.  1803),  and  from  the  Queen  and  Prince  Consort 
(13  Sept.  1843).  '  Like  the  bairns  o'  Fa'kirk,  they'll 
end  ere  they  mend,'  says  a  popular  by- word,  but 
Falkirk  has  produced  one  most  illustrious  '  bairn '  in 
Admiral  Sir  Charles  Napier  (1786-1860),  who  was  born 
at  Merchiston  HaU.  Another  native  was  Henry  Belfrage, 
D.D.  (1774-1835),  an  eminent  Secession  minister ;  whilst 
residents  were  William  Symington  (1760-1831),  a  claimant 
to  the  invention  of  steam  navigation,  and  James  Wilson, 
D.  D. ,  author  of  a  History  of  Egypt,  and  minister  of  Fal- 
kii'k  from  1794  to  his  death  in  1829. 

Of  the  two  battles  of  Falkirk,  the  first  was  fought  on 
22  July  1298  between  Scottish  and  English  armies,  led 
by  Sir  William  Wallace,  then  guardian  of  the  kingdom, 
and  Edward  I.  of  England.  'The  invading  host  is  said 
by  the  English  chroniclers  of  the  day  to  have  numbered 
7500  mounted  men-at-arms  (3000  of  them  clad  in  coats 
of  mail)  and  80,000  foot — a  force  before  which  Wallace's 
poor  army,  less  than  a  third  of  the  enemy's,  was  fain  to 
retreat,  leaving  Edward  a  desert  to  tread  where  neither 
was  there  food  to  eat  nor  man  to  direct  him  on  the  way. 
The  plan  bade  fair  to  succeed,  but  treachery  revealed  tho 
whereabouts  of  Wallace,  and  Edward  at  once  advanced 
from  Kirkliston  to  Linlithgow,  so  eager  to  bring  the 
matter  to  an  issue  that  not  even  the  breaking  of  two  of 
his  ribs  by  a  kick  from  a  horse  could  make  him  defer 
the  fight.     For  Wallace  there  was  no  alternative.     '  In 

3 


FALEIRE 

the  tattle  of  Stirling,'  says  Dr  Hill  Burton,  'the  great 
point  made  was  the  selection  of  the  ground  ;  in  this  he 
showed  even  more  of  the  tactician  in  the  disposal  of  his 
troops  where  they  were  compelled  to  fight.  It  is  a 
strong  testimony  to  skill  in  the  ordering  of  an  army 
that  it  should  be  not  only  distinct,  but  hold  a  shape 
of  which  we  can  estimate  the  merit  by  knowing  how 
valuable  it  is  in  modern  warfare.  The  English  chronicler 
describes  the  marshalling  of  the  Scots  army  with  such 
clearness  that  a  picture  or  diagram  would  not  have 
improved  it.  Taking  up  a  slightly  inclined  plain,  "Wallace 
drew  lip  his  small  body  of  1000  mounted  cavaliers 
in  the  rear,  and  distributed  the  footmen  into  circular 
clumps.  In  each  circle  the  men  knelt  down — those  in 
the  outer  rim  at  least — and  held  their  lances  obliquely 
erect ;  within  the  circle  of  lancers  were  the  bowmen. 
The  arrangement,  save  that  it  was  circular  instead  of 
rectangular,  was  precisely  the  same  as  the  "  square  to 
receive  cavalry "  which  has  baffled  and  beaten  back  so 
many  a  brilliant  army  in  later  days.  It  seemed  at  first 
as  if  "Wallace's  circles  were  to  have  a  similar  history. 
The  first  eiforts  against  them  were  ineffectual,  and  the 
horsemen  seemed  shy  of  charging  the  thick  clnmps  of 
spears.  The  inequality  of  force  was  too  great,  however, 
to  be  neutralised  by  skill.  The  charges  of  Edward's 
mounted  horsemen  at  last  crushed  the  circles,  one  after 
another,  and  when  this  was  done  the  rest  was  mere  rout 
and  slaughter.  "Wallace  managed  to  carry  a  small  body 
out  of  the  field,  and  marched  to  Stirling.  They  found 
it  useless  to  attempt  to  hold  the  place  ;  so,  destroying 
what  they  could,  they  marched  on  no  one  knows  whither, 
the  commander  and  his  followers  alike  disappearing 
from  the  history  of  that  war'  [Hist,  of  Scotl.,  ii.  200,  ed. 
1876).  No  monument  marks  the  field  of  battle  itself, 
midway  between  the  Carron  and  the  town  ;  but  on  the 
top  of  a  hill,  1  mile  SE  of  Callendar  AYood,  stands 
'Wallace's  Stone,'  a  pillar  10  feet  high,  erected  in  1810 
to  replace  the  smaller  original  slab,  a  little  to  the  W.  In 
the  churchyard  of  Falkii-k  is  the  gravestone  of  Sir  John 
Graham  of  Abercorn,  who  fell  in  the  action,  and  who, 
as  well  as  Sir  John  Stewart  of  Bonkill,  was  here  interred. 
The  gravestone  has  been  trebly  renovated ;  or  rather 
there  are  three  superincumbent  stones,  each  of  the 
upper  ones  being  a  copy  of  the  one  beneath  it.  On  all 
are  the  following  inscriptions  : 

'  Mente  manuque  potens,  et  Valine  fidus  Achates, 
Conditur  hie  Gramus,  bello  interfectus  ab  Anj^dis. 

'  xxii.  Julii,  anno  1293  ' 

*  Here  lyes  Sip  Jolin  tlie  Grame,  baitli  wight  and  wise, 
Ane  of  the  chiefs  who  reschewit  Scotland  thrice. 
Ane  better  knight  not  to  the  world  was  lent, 
Nor  was  gude  Grame  of  truth  and  hardiment.' 

The  second  battle  of  Falkirk  wa?  fought  on  17  Jan. 
1746,  between  the  Highland  arm}',  8000  strong,  of  Prince 
Charles  Edward,  and  9000  Hanoverians  under  General 
Hawley,  1300  of  whom  were  hoi'se,  and  1000  Argyll 
Highlanders.  The  Prince  was  preparing  to  lay  siege  to 
Stirling  Castle,  but  news  being  brought  of  Hawley's 
advance  from  Edinburgh  to  its  relief,  determined  to  give 
him  battle.  The  English  commander,  aniving  at  Fal- 
kirk, encamped  between  the  town  and  the  former  field 
of  battle,  there  to  wait  till  he  should  gather  sufficient 
intelligence  for  the  arrangement  of  his  operations.  The 
foe,  so  far  from  being  daunted  by  his  approach,  resolved 
to  attack  him  in  his  camp,  and  skilfully  used  such  feints 
to  divert  and  deceive  the  royal  troops,  that  they  were 
just  about  to  cross  the  Carron  at  Dunipace  before  they 
were  perceived.  Hawley,  a  pig-headed  disciplinarian, 
with  an  easy  contempt  for  '  undisciplined  rabbles, '  was 
breakfasting  at  Callander  House  with  the  Jacobite  Count- 
ess of  Kilmarnock  ;  and  '  "Where  is  the  General  ? '  was 
his  officers'  frequent  inquiry,  till  at  length  the  General 
rode  furiously  up,  his  grey  hair  streaming  in  the  ivind. 
He  found  his  men  formed  already,  and,  seeing  the  High- 
landers advancing  towards  a  hill  near  South  Bantaskine, 
1\  mile  S"W  of  the  town,  sent  the  dragoons  on  to  seize 
and  to  hold  the  height,  and  ordered  the  foot  to  follow. 
The  author  of  Douglas,  John  Home,  who  served  as  lieu- 
tenant in  the  Glasgow  Volunteers,  describes  how,  '  at 
4 


FALKIRK 

the  very  instant  the  regiments  of  foot  began  to  march, 
the  day  was  overcast ;  and  by-and-by  a  storm  of  wind 
and  rain  beat  dii'ectly  in  the  face  of  the  soldiers,  who 
were  marching  up  the  hill  with  their  bayonets  fixed,  and 
could  not  secure  their  pieces  from  the  rain.  The  cavalry 
was  a  good  way  before  the  infantry,  and  for  some  time 
it  seemed  a  sort  of  race  between  the  Highlanders  and  the 
dragoons  which  should  get  first  to  the  top  of  the  hill. ' 
The  Highlanders  won  the  race,  and  drew  up  in  a  battle- 
array  of  two  lines,  with  a  reserve  in  the  rear.  The  royal 
troops,  making  the  most  of  their  circumstances,  formed 
in  two  lines  along  a  ravine  in  front  of  tlie  enemy ;  but, 
owing  to  the  convexity  of  the  ground,  saw  their  antago- 
nists, and  were  seen  in  turn,  only  in  the  central  part 
of  the  line.  Their  dragoons  were  on  the  left,  com- 
manded by  Hawley  in  person,  and  stretching  parallel  to 
more  than  two-thirds  of  the  enemy's  position ;  and  their 
infantry  were  on  the  right,  partly  in  rear  of  the  cavalry, 
and  outlined  by  two  regiments  the  enemy's  left.  The 
armies  standing  within  100  yards  of  each  other,  both 
unprovided  on  the  spot  with  artillery,  Hawley  ordered 
his  dragoons  to  advance,  sword  in  hand.  Meeting  with 
a  warm  reception,  several  companies,  after  the  first  onset, 
and  receiving  a  voUey  at  the  distance  of  ten  or  twelve 
paces,  wheeled  round,  and  galloped  out  of  sight,  disor- 
dering the  infantry  and  exposing  their  left  flank  by  the 
flight.  The  Highlanders,  taking  advantage  of  the  con- 
fusion, outflanked  the  roj'al  forces,  rushed  down  upon 
them  with  the  broadsword,  compelled  them  to  give  way, 
and  commenced  a  pursuit.  The  King's  troops,  but  for 
the  spirited  exertions  of  two  unbroken  regiments  and  a 
rally  of  some  scattered  battalions,  who  checked  the  pur- 
suers, would  have  been  annihilated;  as  it  was,  they  had 
12  officers  and  55  privates  killed,  and  in  killed,  wounded, 
and  missing  lost  altogether  280  men  according  to  their 
own  returns,  1300  according  to  the  Jacobites.  Among 
the  persons  of  rank  who  were  left  dead  on  the  field  were 
Sir  Robert  Munro  of  Foulis,  Bart.,  and  his  brother  Dun- 
can, a  physician.  They  were  biu'ied  beside  each  other 
in  the  churchyard  of  Falkirk,  and  commemorated  in  a 
superb  monument  erected  over  their  ashes,  and  inscribed 
with  a  succinct  statement  of  the  circumstances  of  their 
death.  The  Jacobites'  loss  was  only  some  40  killed  and 
80  wounded ;  and  they  remained  at  Falkirk  till  the  19th, 
when  they  returned  by  Bannockburn  to  resume  the  in- 
vestment of  Stielijtg  Castle.  See  vol.  i.,  pp.  619-630, 
of  Keltic's  History  oftM  Scottish  Highlands  (Edinb.  1875). 
The  parish  of  Falkirk  contains  also  the  suburbs  of 
Grahamston,  Bainsford,  Camelon,  Parkfoot,  and  Gart- 
crow,  and  the  villages  of  Laurieston  and  Glen,  part  of  the 
town  of  Grangemouth,  and  part  of  the  villages  of  "West 
Carron  Iron-works  and  Bonnybridge ;  and  it  formerly 
included  the  territories  now  forming  the  parishes  of 
Denny,  Slamannan,  Muiravonside,  and  Polmont.  It  is 
bounded  N  by  Dunipace,  Larbert,  and  Bothkennar,  E 
and  SE  by  Polmont  and  Muiravonside,  S  by  Slamannan, 
SW  by  Cumbernauld  in  Dumbartonshire  (detached),  and 
N"\V  by  Denny.  Its  utmost  length,  from  ENE  to  "WS"W, 
is  9|  miles ;  its  breadth  varies  between  IJ  and  5| miles; 
and  its  area  is  19,822J  acres,  of  which  13J  are  foreshore 
and  258  water.  Cakeon  "Water  roughly  traces  all  the 
northern  border,  and  quits  it  within  the  Firth  of  Forth's 
foreshore.  If  mile  from  the  open  channel  of  the  fii'th  ; 
its  affluent.  Bonny  "Water,  winds  4  miles  east-north- 
eastward on  or  close  to  the  boundary  with  Denny ;  "West 
QuAP.TEK  Burn,  rising  in  the  SW  of  the  interior,  runs 
east-north-eastward  to  the  boundary  with  Polmont, 
then  north-north-eastward  along  that  boundary  to  the 
Carron  at  Grangemouth  ;  and  lastly  the  river  Avon 
traces  all  the  Slamannan  border.  Lochs  EUrig  (5J  x  If 
furl.)  and  Green  (IJ  x  1  furl.)  lie  3 J  mUes  S  and  5  miles 
WSW  of  Falkirk  town,  but  present  no  feature  of  special 
interest.  The  land,  from  the  confluence  of  Carron  Water 
and  West  Quarter  Burn,  southward  and  west-south-west- 
ward, to  the  extent  of  about  a  third  of  the  entire  area, 
is  all  but  a  dead  level,  and  consists  of  rich  carse  soil  in 
the  highest  state  of  cultivation.  From  the  town  on- 
ward the  surface  is  partly  undulating,  partly  hilly,  rising 
west-south-westward  to  405  feet  near  Standalane,  612 


FALKLAND 

near  "Westside,  and  596  near  Saucliierig ;  southward  and 
soutli-south-westwarJ  to  646  near  Greencraig,  675  near 
Loch  AUrig,  and  5S1  near  Greenrig.  Most  of  that  region 
is  arable,  and  much  of  it  is  diversified  by  natural  woods 
and  thriving  plantations,  but  a  considerable  tract,  near 
the  southern  boundary,  is  moor  and  moss.  Of  the  entire 
area,  11,000  acres  are  arable,  4851  are  pasture,  1900  are 
waste,  and  ISOO  are  under  wood.  The  rocks  belong  to 
the  Coal  Measures  of  the  Carboniferous  formation.  Coal 
of  excellent  quality  is  so  abundant  as  to  be  largely  ex- 
ported ;  sandstone,  limestone,  and  ironstone  occur  in  the 
same  district  as  the  coal ;  and  lead,  copper,  sDver,  and 
cobalt  have  been  found,  though  not  in  considerable 
quantities.  Vestiges  of  Antoninits'  Wall  occur  in 
various  parts ;  traces  of  the  Roman  town  of  Old  Camelon 
existed  till  a  comparatively  recent  period  ;  some  wheat, 
supposed  to  have  lain  concealed  from  the  time  of  the 
Roman  possession,  was  found  about  the  year  1770  in  the 
hollow  of  a  quarry  near  Castlecaey  ;  funereal  urns  and 
stone  coffins  have  been  exhumed  in  various  places  ;  and 
several  moats  or  artificial  earthen  mounds,  used  in  the 
Middle  Ages  as  seatsof  justiciary  courts  and  deliberative 
assemblies,  are  in  Seabegs  barony.  The  Forth  and  Clyde 
Canal,  commencing  at  Grangemouth,  traverses  the  parish 
through  nearly  its  gi'eatest  length,  or  about  9  miles ; 
the  Union  Canal,  deflecting  from  the  Forth  and  Clyde 
Canal  IJ  mile  W  of  the  town,  traverses  the  parish  to  the 
length  of  fully  3  mUes,  passing  on  the  way  a  tunnel  3 
furlongs  in  length  ;  the  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow  railway 
makes  a  reach  of  nearly  7h  miles  within  the  parish,  and 
traverses  a  long  tunnel  immediately  E  of  Falkirk  station ; 
the  Polmont  and  Larbert  loopdine  of  the  North  British 
railway,  and  the  branch  from  it  to  Grangemouth,  are 
entirely  within  the  parish ;  the  junctions  of  that  line 
with  both  the  Caledonian  and  the  North  British  lines 
from  the  W,  and  with  the  branch  line  to  Denny,  are  on 
the  N  border,  about  2  miles  W  by  N  of  the  town.  The 
Greenhill  junctions,  and  the  line  from  the  upper  one  of 
them  to  the  Larbert  junctions,  also  are  within  the  parish, 
about  2  miles  from  the  western  boundary ;  and  the  reach 
of  the  Caledonian  railway  from  the  lower  Greenhill  junc- 
tion makes  a  curving  sweep  of  fully  2J  miles  to  the 
western  boundary.  Callendar,  Kerse,  and  Bantaskine, 
noticed  separately,  are  chief  mansions ;  and  7  proprietors 
hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  71  of 
between  £100  and  £500,  89  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  236 
of  from  £20  to  £50.  In  the  presbytery  of  Linlithgow  and 
sjmod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale,  this  parish  is  ecclesiasti- 
cally divided  into  Falkirk  proper  and  the  quoad  sacra  par- 
ishes of  Grahamston,  Camelon,  Grangemouth,  Slaraannan, 
Cumbernauld,  and  Bonnybridge  ;  JFalkirk  itself  being  a 
living  worth  £583,  9s.  By  the  parish  school-board  £9793, 
7s.  has  been  expended  since  1872  m  the  erection  of  the 
three  new  public  schools  of  Bonnybridge,  Camelon,  and 
Laurieston.  These  three  and  Auchingean,  with  respective 
accommodation  for  420,  350,  300,  and  67  children,  had 
(1880)  an  average  attendance  of  305,  309,  250,  and  43, 
and  grants  of  £296,  lis.  6d.,  £314,  10s.  6d.,  £249,  4s., 
and  £44,  5s.  Valuation  of  landward  portion  of  parish 
(1882)  £46,233,  19s.  lOd.,  plus  £18,461  for  railways  and 
canals.  Pop.  of  civil  parish  (1801)  8838,  (1821)  11,536, 
(1841)  14,108,  (1861)  17,026,  (1871)  18,051,  (1881)  25,143 ; 
of?.s.parish(1881)ll,549.— Ord.;S'Mr.,sh.31,1867.  See 
Robert  Gillespie's  Hound  About  Falkirk  (Glasgow,  1868). 
Falkland,  a  small  town  and  a  parish  in  the  Cupar 
district  of  Fifeshire.  The  town  stands  at  the  NE  base 
of  East  Lomond  hill,  2f  miles  NW  of  Falkland  Eoad 
station  on  the  North  British  railway,  this  being  2J  miles 
SSW  of  Ladybank  Junction,  8J  S\V  of  Cupar-Fife,  5J 
N  by  W  of  Thornton  Junction,  and  254  N  of  Edin- 
burgh. It  once  was  a  place  of  much  resort,  the  capital 
of  the  stewartry  of  Fife,  the  residence  of  the  retainers 
of  the  earls  of  Fife,  and  afterwards  the  residence  of 
the  courtiers  of  the  kings  of  Scotland  ;  and  it  possesses 
memorials  of  its  ancient  consequence  in  the  remains  of 
the  royal  palace,  some  curious  old  houses,  and  such  local 
names  as  Parliament  Square,  College  Close,  and  West 
Port.  It  is  now,  and  has  long  been,  a  sequestered  country 
town,  and  though  enlivened  by  a  few  modern  erections, 


FALKLAND 

it  consists  mainly  of  unpaved  roadways,  sloping  alleys, 
intricate  lanes,  and  picturesque  old  houses.  A  house  of 
two  stories,  fronting  the  palace,  bears  an  inscription 
vnth  the  date  1610,  intimating  it  to  have  been  a  royal 
gift  to  Nichol  Jloncrieff ;  the  house  adjoining  it  occu- 
pies the  site  of  the  residence  of  the  royal  falconer,  and 
retains  an  insciibed  stone  of  the  year  1607  ;  and  there 
are  houses  bearing  later  dates  in  the  same  century.  A 
three-storied  house  on  the  S  of  the  square,  now  used  as 
a  co-operative  store,  was  the  birthplace  of  the  famous 
Covenanter  Richard  Cameron. 

Falkland  was  originally  a  burgh  of  barony  belonging 
to  the  Earls  of  Fife,  but  it  was  erected  into  a  royal  burgh 
in  1458,  during  the  reign  of  James  II.  The  preamble 
to  the  charter  of  erection  states,  as  the  reasons  for 
granting  it,  the  frequent  residence  of  the  royal  family 
at  the  manor  of  Falkland,  and  the  damage  and  incon- 
venience sustained  by  the  many  prelates,  peers,  barons, 
nobles,  and  others  of  their  subjects  who  came  to  their 
country-seat,  for  want  of  innkeepers  and  victuallers. 
This  charter  was  renewed  by  James  VI.  in  1595.  Among 
the  privileges  which  these  charters  conferred,  was  the 
right  of  holding  a  weekly  market,  and  of  having  foiu: 
fairs  or  public  markets  annually.  To  the  public  markets 
two  others  were  subsequently  added — one  called  the 
linseed  market,  held  in  spring,  and  the  other  the  harvest 
market,  held  in  autumn.  There  are  now  seven  public 
markets  held  throughout  the  year.  These  occur  in  the 
months  of  January,  February,  April,  June,  August, 
September,  and  November,  but  only  the  last  is  well 
attended.  Like  the  neighbouring  burgh  of  Auchter- 
muchty — although  certainly  entitled  originally  to  have 
done  so — Falkland  does  not  appear  at  any  time  to  have 
exercised  its  right  of  electing  a  member  to  the  Scottish 
parliament ;  consequently  its  privileges  were  overlooked 
at  the  time  of  the  Union  ;  but  since  the  passing  of  the 
Reform  Bill,  its  inhabitants  having  the  necessary  qualifi- 
cation are  entitled  to  a  vote  in  the  election  of  a  member 
for  the  county.  In  all  other  respects,  however,  this 
burgh  enjoys  the 
privileges  of  a 
royal  burgh.  It 
is  governed  by 
a  town-council, 
consisting  of  3 
magistrates,  8 
councillors,  a 
treasurer,  and  a 
town-clerk.  The 
magistrates,  be- 
sides managing 
with  the  council 
the  civil  affairs  of 
the  burgh,  hold 
courts  from  time 
to  time  for  the 
decision  of  ques- 
tions arising  out 
of  civil  contracts 
and  petty  delicts.  No  town,  probably,  in  Scotland  it 
better  supplied  with  spring  water.  This  was  brought  in 
1781  from  the  neighbouring  Lomonds  by  means  of  pipes, 
and  is  distributed  by  wells  situated  in  different  parts  of 
the  burgh.  This  useful  public  work  cost  about  £400 
sterling,  and  was  executed  at  the  expense  of  the  corpora- 
tion. Falkland  has  a  post  office  under  Ladybank,  with 
money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  departments, 
a  branch  office  of  the  British  Linen  Company  Bank,  3 
insurance  agencies,  2  hotels,  gas-works,  and  a  masonic 
lodge.  The  town-house,  which  is  ornamented  with  a 
spire,  was  erected  in  1302,  and  contains  a  hall  in  which 
the  burgh  courts  and  the  meetings  of  the  town-council 
are  held ;  its  lower  story,  occupied  now  by  a  draper's 
shop,  served  originally  as  a  lock-up  house.  The  parish 
church,  built  in  1849,  by  the  late  0.  T.  Bruce,  Esq.,  at 
a  cost  of  £7000,  is  a  handsome  Gothic  edifice,  with  a 
fine  spire  and  900  sittings.  There  is  also  a  Free  church, 
whilst  at  Freuchie,  2  miles  to  the  eastward,  are  another 
Established  and  a  U.P.   church.     The  manufactm'e  of 


Seal  of  Falkland. 


FALKLAND 

linens  and  woollens  is  the  staple  industry,  brewing  and 
brick-making  being  also  carried  on.  Pop.  (1841)  1313, 
(1861)  1184,  (1871)  1283,  (1881)  1068,  of  whom  972 
were  in  the  royal  burgh. 

The  lands  of  Falkland,  including  what  now  constitutes 
the  burgh,  belonged  originally  to  the  Crown,  and  were  ob- 
tained from  Malcolm  IV.  by  Duncan,  sixth  Earl  of  Fife, 
upon  the  occasion  of  his  marriage  with  Ada,  the  niece 
of  the  king.  In  the  charter  conferring  them,  which  is 
dated  1160,  the  name  is  spelled  '  Falecklen.'  The  lands 
of  Falkland  continued,  with  the  title  and  other  estates, 
with  the  descendants  of  Duncan  until  1371,  when  Isobel, 
Countess  of  Fife,  the  last  of  the  ancient  race,  conveyed  the 
earldom  and  estates  to  Robert  Stewart,  Earl  of  Monteith, 
second  son  of  Eobert  II.,  who  thus  became  seventeenth 
Earl  of  Fife,  and  in  1398  was  created  Duke  of  Albany.  On 
the  forfeiture  of  his  son,  Mm-doch,  in  1424,  the  lands  of 
Falkland  reverted  to  the  Crown,  and  the  town  was 
shortly  afterwards  erected  into  a  royal  burgh.  The  courts 
of  the  stewartiy  of  Fife — which  comprehended  only  the 
estates  of  the  earldom — were  also  removed  from  the 
county  town  of  Cupar  to  Falkland,  where  they  were 
afterwards  held  as  long  as  the  office  of  steward  existed. 
In  1601,  Sir  David  Miu'ray  of  Gospetrie,  first  Viscount 
Stormont,  obtained  a  charter  of  the  Castle-stead  of 
Falkland,  with  the  office  of  ranger  of  the  Lomonds  and 
forester  of  the  woods,  and  he  also  held  the  office  of 
captain  or  keeper  of  the  palace  and  steward  of  the 
stewartry  of  Fife.  The  lands  called  the  Castle-stead, 
with  the  offices  and  other  parts  of  the  lands  of  Falkland, 
were  afterwards  acquired  by  John,  first  Duke  of  Athole, 
who  was  appointed  one  of  his  majesty's  principal  secre- 
taries of  state  in  1696,  and  lord  high  commissioner  to 
the  Scottish  parliament  the  following  year.  He  was 
twice  appointed  to  the  office  of  keeper  of  the  privy  seal, 
and  was  made  an  extraordinary  lord  of  session  in  1712. 

At  an  early  period,  the  Earls  of  Fife  had  a  residence 
here,  called  the  castle  of  Falkland.  Not  a  vestige  of 
this  buUding  now  remains,  but  its  site  appears  to  have 
been  in  the  immediate  neighboiu'hood  of  where  the 
palace  was  afterwards  built.  This  fortalice  had  in  efi'ect 
the  honours  of  a  palace  while  it  was  occupied  by  one  of 
the  blood-royal,  Robert,  Duke  of  Albany,  who,  for  34 
years,  had  all  the  power  of  the  state  in  his  hands,  under 
the  different  titles  of  lieutenant-general,  governor,  and 
regent.  Although  Eobert  gives  it  the  more  hmnble 
designation  of  '  Manerium  nostrum  de  Fawkland, '  it 
was,  in  fact,  the  seat  of  authority;  for  his  aged  and 
infirm  father  constantly  resided  in  the  island  of  Bute. 
It  receives  its  first  notoriety,  in  the  history  of  our 
country,  from  the  death  here,  on  27  March  1402,  of 
Albany's  nephew,  David,  Duke  of  Rothesay,  eldest  son 
of  Robert  III.  That  madcap  prince  was  on  his  way  to 
seize  the  castle  of  St  Andrews,  whose  bishop  had  just 
died,  when  at  Strathtjrum  he  was  arrested  imder  a 
royal  warrant,  and  brought  a  prisoner  to  the  castle  of 
Falkland.  There,  says  the  popular  legend,  adopted  by 
Scott  in  Tlic  Fair  Maid  of  Perth,  he  was  thrust  into  a 
dungeon,  and  left  to  die  of  starvation.  His  life  was  for 
some  days  feebly  sustained  by  means  of  thin  cakes, 
pushed  through  a  crevice  in  the  wall  by  the  young 
daughter  of  the  governor  of  the  castle ;  but  her  mercy 
being  viewed  by  her  ruthless  father  in  the  light  of 
perfidy  to  himself,  she  was  put  to  death.  Even  this 
brutal  act  did  not  deter  another  tender-hearted  woman, 
employed  as  wet-nurse  in  the  family,  who  supplied  him 
with  milk  from  her  breasts  by  means  of  a  long  reed, 
until  she,  in  like  manner,  fell  a  sacrifice  to  her  compas- 
sion. Certain  it  is  that  the  prince's  body  was  removed 
from  Falkland  for  burial  in  the  Abbey  of  Lindores,  that 
public  rumour  loudly  charged  Albany  and  Douglas  with 
his  murder,  and  that  a  parliamentary  inquiry  resulted 
in  a  declaration  to  the  doubtful  effect  that  he  'died  by 
the  visitation  of  Providence,  and  not  otherwise.'  Wyn- 
toun  laments  his  untimely  death,  but  says  nothing  of 
murder ;  so  that  by  Dr  Hill  Burton  the  regent  is  ac- 
quitted of  this  foul  blot  upon  his  character  (Hist.  Scotl. , 
a.  380-396,  ed.  1876). 

After  the  lands  and  castle  of  Falkland  came  to  the 
6 


FALKLAND 

Crown  by  the  forfeiture  of  the  earldom,  the  first  three 
Jameses  occasionally  resided  at  the  castle,  enjoying  the 
pleasures  of  the  chase  in  the  adjoining  forest,  and  on 
the  Lomond  hills  ;  and  iu  consequence  of  this  the 
charter  was  granted  by  James  II.,  erecting  the  town 
into  a  royal  burgh.  It  is  impossible  now  to  ascertain 
whether  James  III.  or  James  IV.  began  to  build  the 
palace,  as  both  of  these  monarchs  were  fond  of  architect- 
ure, and  both  employed  workmen  at  Falkland  ;  but  the 
work  was  completed  by  James  V.  in  1537,  and  with  him 
the  palace  is  closely  associated.  Hence  he  escaped  out 
of  Angus's  hands  to  Stirling,  disguised  as  a  stable-boy, 
May  1528 ;  and  hither,  broken-hearted  by  the  rout  of 
Solway  Moss,  he  retm-ued  to  die,  13  Dec.  1542.  By  his 
deathbed  stood  Cardinal  Bethune,  Kirkcaldy  of  Grange, 
and  his  old  tutor,  Sir  David  Lindsay,  who  told  him  of 
the  birth,  a  few  days  before,  of  Mary  at  Linlithgow. 
'  It  came  with  a  lass,  and  it  will  go  with  a  lass,'  said 
James ;  then,  turning  his  face  to  the  wall,  spake  no- 
thing more.  Here  Mary  of  Guise,  his  widowed  queen, 
often  resided,  while  she  governed  the  kingdom  for 
her  infant  daughter ;  and  here  she  found  it  necessary 
to  give  her  reluctant  consent  to  the  armistice  agreed 
to  near  Cupar  with  the  Lords  of  the  Congregation. 
Here,  too,  the  unfortimate  Mary,  after  her  return  from 
France,  oft  sought  relief  iu  the  sports  of  the  field  from 
the  many  troubles  of  her  short  and  unhappy  reign. 
She  appears  first  to  have  visited  it  in  Sept.  1561,  on  her 
way  from  St  Andrews  to  Edinburgh.  She  returned  in 
the  beginning  of  the  following  year,  having  left  Edin- 
burgh to  avoid  the  brawls  which  had  arisen  between 
Arrau  and  Bothwell ;  and  resided  partly  at  Falkland, 
and  partly  at  St  Andrews,  for  two  or  three  months. 
She  occupied  her  mornings  in  hunting  on  the  banks  of 
the  Eden,  or  in  trials  of  skill  in  archery  in  her  garden, 
and  her  afternoons  in  reading  the  Greek  and  Latin 
classics  with  Buchanan,  or  at  chess,  or  with  music. 
During  1563,  after  her  return  from  her  expedition  to 
the  North,  she  revisited  Falkland,  and  made  various 
short  excursions  to  places  in  the  neighbom-hood ;  and 
again,  in  1564,  and  after  her  marriage  with  Darnley  in 
1665.  After  the  birth  of  her  son,  she  once  more  visited 
Falkland  ;  but  this  appears  to  have  been  the  last  time, 
as  the  circumstances  which  so  rapidly  succeeded  each 
other,  after  the  murder  of  Darnley,  and  her  marriage 
with  Bothwell,  left  her  no  longer  at  leisure  to  enjoy  the 
retirement  it  had  once  afforded  her. 

James  VI.,  while  he  remained  in  Scotland,  resided 
often  at  the  palace  of  Falkland  ;  and  indeed  it  seems  to 
have  been  his  favourite  residence.  After  the  Raid  of 
Ruthven  (1582),  James  retired  here,  calling  his  friends 
together  for  the  piirpose  of  consulting  as  to  the  best  means 
of  relieving  himself  from  the  thraldom  under  which  he 
had  been  placed  ;  and  he  was  again  at  Falkland  in  1592, 
when  Francis  Stewart,  Earl  of  Bothwell,  made  one  of  his 
desperate  attempts  on  the  king's  person,  and  was  driven 
back  solely  by  the  timely  assistance  of  the  neighbouring 
peasantry.  After  the  riots  in  Edinburgh  in  1696,  James 
again  retired  here,  where  he  employed  himself  partly  in 
hunting,  and  partly  in  plotting  the  destruction  of  the 
Presbyterian  religion,  and  the  introduction  of  Episcopacy. 
In  1600,  he  was  again  residing  at  Falkland,  when  the 
fii'st  act  was  played  of  the  so-caUed  Gowrie  Conspiracy. 
The  king,  on  5  Aug.,  was  about  to  mount  his  horse,  to 
follow  his  favourite  sport,  when  the  mysterious  message 
was  delivered  to  him  by  Alexander  Ruthven,  brother 
to  the  Earl  of  Gowrie,  which  induced  James,  after  the 
buck  was  killed,  to  ride  to  Perth.  In  1617,  when  James, 
now  King  of  Great  Britain,  visited  Scotland,  he,  in  his 
progress  through  the  kingdom,  paid  his  last  visit  to 
Falkland.  In  1633,  when  Charles  I.  visited  Scotland, 
he  slept  three  nights  here,  on  his  way  to  Perth  ;  and  on 
his  return,  he  slept  two  nights  in  going  to  Edinburgh, 
and  created  several  gentlemen  of  the  county  knights. 
Upon  the  6th  of  July  1650,  Charles  II.,  who  had  arrived 
from  Holland  on  the  23d  of  the  preceding  month, 
visited  Falkland,  where  he  resided  some  days,  receiving 
the  homage  of  that  part  of  his  subjects  who  were  desirous 
of  his  restoration  to  the  crown  of  his  ancestors ;  and 


FALKLAND 

here  lie  again  returned,  after  his  coronation  at  Scone,  on 
the  22d  of  Jan.  1651,  and  remained  some  days. 

The  oldest  portion  of  the  palace,  which  was  erected 
either  by  James  111.  or  James  IV.,  forms  the  S 
front,  and  still  is  partially  inhabited.  On  each  floor 
there  are  six  windows,  square-topped,  and  divided  by 
mullions  into  two  lights.  Between  the  windows,  the 
front  is  supported  by  buttresses,  enriched  with  niches 
in  which  statues  were  placed,  the  mutilated  remains  of 
which  are  still  to  be  seen,  and  terminating  in  ornamented 
pinnacles  which  rise  considerably  above  the  top  of  the 
wall.  The  lower  floor  is  the  part  inhabited,  and  the 
upper  floor  is  entirely  occupied  by  a  large  hall.  The 
western  part  of  this  front  of  the  palace  is  in  the  castellated 
style,  and  of  greater  height  than  the  other  ;  it  is  orna- 
mented with  two  round  towers,  between  which  is  a 
lofty  archway  which  forms  the  entrance  to  the  court- 
j'ard  behind,  and  which,  in  former  times,  was  secured 
by  strong  doors,  and  could  be  defended  from  the  towers 
that  flank  it.  James  V.  made  great  additions  to  the 
palace,  and  appears  to  have  erected  two  ranges  of  build- 
ing, equal  in  size  to  that  described,  on  the  E  and  N 
sides  of  the  courtyard.  As  completed  by  him,  therefore, 
the  palace  occupied  three  sides  of  a  square  court,  the 
fourth  or  western  side  being  enclosed  by  a  lofty  wall. 
The  range  of  building  on  the  N  side  of  the  court  has 
now  entirely  disappeared,  and  of  that  on  the  E,  the 
bare  walls  alone  remain,  these  two  portions  of  the  palace 
having  been  accidentally  destroyed  by  five  in  the  reign 
of  Charles  II.  Having  erected  his  addition  to  the 
palace  in  the  Corinthian  style  of  architecture,  James 
assimilated  the  inner  front  of  the  older  part  of  the 
building,  by  erecting  a  new  fagade  in  the  same  style 
with  the  rest  of  the  ^building.  The  building  consisted 
of  two  stories,  a  basement  or  lower  floor,  and  a  principal 
one,  the  windows  of  which  are  large  and  elegant,  when 
we  consider  the  period.  Between  the  windows,  the 
facade  is  ornamented  with  finely  proportioned  Corinthian 
pillars,  having  rich  capitals ;  and  between  the  upper 
row  of  windows  are  medallions,  presenting  a  series  of 
heads  carved  in  high  relief,  some  of  which  are  beautifully 
executed,  and  would  lead  us  to  believe  that  more  than 
native  talent  had  been  engaged  in  the  work.  On  the 
top  of  the  basement  which  supports  the  pillars,  the 
initials  of  the  king  and  of  his  queen,  Mary  of  Guise,  are 
carved  alternately. 

The  palace  of  Falkland,  deserted  by  its  royal  inmates, 
was  for  a  long  series  of  years  sufl'ered  to  fall  into  decay : 

*  The  fretted  roof  looked  dark  and  cold. 

And  tottered  all  around ; 
The  carved  work  of  ajjes  old 

Dropped  mther'd  on  the  ground : 
The  casement's  antique  tracery 

Was  eaten  by  the  dew  ; 
And  the  night-breeze,  whistling  mournfully. 

Crept  keen  and  coldly  through.' 

But  it  is  now  the  property  of  Mr  Bruce,  who  takes 
great  interest  in  its  careful  preservation,  as  well  as  in 
ornamenting  the  court-yard  with  flowers  and  shrubs, 
and  the  ground  in  its  immediate  neighbourhood,  which 
has  been  laid  out  as  a  garden.  The  mixture  of  Gothic, 
Baronial,  and  Palladian  architecture  in  this  building 
makes  it  of  much  interest  to  the  antiquarian.  The 
main  front,  although  distinctly  Baronial,  has  been 
treated  with  buttresses  and  pinnacles,  till  it  assumes 
the  outward  appearance  of  some  ancient  chapel,  while 
alongside  stand  the  two  round  towers  of  the  gatewaj-, 
with  shot-holes,  portcullis,  and  massive  walls,  that  look 
incongruous.  In  the  inside,  this  part  at  one  time 
presented  the  appearance  of  a  narrow,  stone-roofed  main 
building,  winged  with  two  round  towers  corresponding 
to  those  at  the  entrance.  But  the  space  between  those 
has  been  filled  up  to  widen  the  building,  and  provide  a 
gallery  leading  to  the  large  hall,  and  it  is  on  this  later 
face  that  the  Corinthian  pillars  and  rows  of  medallions 
are  shown.  At  a  certain  level  on  the  old  towers  there 
is  a  bold  string  course,  and  it  is  remarked  by  architects 
how  admirably  the  row  of  medallions,  on  the  same  level, 
carries  on  the  line,  although  of  such  a  different  style  of 
architecture.     The  ruined  E  wing  of  the  square  presents 


FALKLAND 

similar  medallions,  but  they  are  between  the  rows  of 
windows,  not  alternate  with  the  main  windows  as  in 
the  other  wing,  and  are  far  less  eftective.  The  grand 
hall,  occupying  the  main  building  to  the  front,  shows  a 
paunelled  roof,  of  which  some  part  of  the  colouring  still 
remains,  and  part  of  the  original  decoration  of  the  walls 
is  also  seen.  One  end  of  the  hall  is  separated  from  the 
corridor  by  a  magnificent  screen  in  oak,  consisting  of 
slender  turned  pillars  rising  from  floor  to  ceiling,  and 
displaying  a  very  marked  style  of  chamfering,  at  the 
changes  from  round  to  square,  where  the  pUlars  are 
divided  into  stages.  A  stone  balcony  runs  round  the 
two  towers,  with  their  connecting  building,  and  the 
main  portion  of  the  front,  and  from  this  height  a  very 
delightful  view  of  the  surrounding  country  is  obtained. 
The  view  from  the  southern  jiarapet  of  the  palace  has 
long  been  admired.  On  the  one  hand,  the  Lomond 
hills  spread  out  their  green  sides,  and  point  their  conical 
summits  to  the  sky ;  on  the  other,  the  whole  strath  of 
Eden,  the  Howe  of  Fife  from  Cupar  to  Strathmiglo,  lies 
open  and  exposed.  Within  the  railing  in  front  of  the 
palace  stands  a  full-length  statue  of  Mr  Onesiphorus 
Tyndall  Bruce,  and  in  the  quadrangle  are  two  finely- 
executed  bronze  statues  in  a  sitting  posture,  also  by  Sir 
John  Steell — one  of  Dr  John  Bruce  and  the  other  of 
Col.  Bruce. 

It  might  reasonably  be  supposed  that,  while  Falkland 
continued  to  be  the  occasional  residence  of  royalty,  it 
was  not  only  a  place  of  resort  to  the  higher  classes,  but 
that  the  peasantry  would  be  permitted  to  enjoy  that 
festivity  here  which  was  most  congenial  to  their  humours. 
As  it  was  a  favourite  residence  of  that  mirthful  prince 
James  V.,  it  might  well  be  conjectm'ed,  from  his  peculiar 
habits,  that  he  would  be  little  disposed  to  debar  from 
its  pnrlieus  those  with  whom  he  was  wont  frequently 
to  associate  in  disguise.  Accordingly — although  it  is 
still  matter  of  dispute  among  our  poetical  antiquaries, 
whether  the  palm  should  not  rather  be  given  to  his 
ancestor  James  I. — one  of  the  most  humorous  effusions 
of  the  Scottish  muse,  which  contains  an  express  refer- 
ence to  the  jovial  scenes  of  the  vulgar  at  Falkland,  has, 
with  great  probability,  been  ascribed  to  the  fifth  of  this 
name : 

*  Was  ne^ir  in  Scotland  hard  nor  sene 

Sic  dansin  nor  deray, 
Nouthir  at  Falkland  on  the  Grene, 

Nor  Pebillis  at  the  Play 
As  wes  of  wowaris,  as  I  wene. 

At  Christis  kirk  on  ane  day,'  etc. 

According  to  Allan  Ramsay  and  the  learned  Callander, 
'  Chrystis  Kirk '  is  the  kirktown  of  Leslie,  near  Falkland. 
Others  have  said,  with  less  probability,  that  it  belongs 
to  the  parish  of  Leslie,  in  that  part  of  the  county  of 
Aberdeen  called  the  Garioch.  Pinkerton  thinks  that, 
besides  the  poems  of  ClirisUs  KirTc  and  Peblis  to  the 
Play,  a  third  one,  of  the  same  description,  had  been 
written,  which  is  now  lost,  celebrating  the  festivities  of 
'  Falkland  on  the  Grene.'  This  phraseology  might  refer 
to  what  has  been  called  '  the  park  at  Falkland.'  Sir 
David  Lindsay,  being  attached  to  the  court,  must  have 
passed  much  of  his  time  at  this  royal  residence.  Ac- 
cording to  his  own  account — notmthstanding  the  badness 
of  the  ale  brewed  in  the  burgh — he  led  a  very  pleasant 
life  here ;  for,  in  the  language  of  anticipation,  he  bids 
adieu  to  the  beauties  of  Falkland  in  these  terms  : 

'  Fare  Weill,  Falkland,  the  forteresa  of  Fyfe, 
Thy  polite  park,  under  the  Lowmouud  law. 
Sum  tjTne  in  the,  I  led  a  lustie  Ij'fe, 
Tlie  fallow  deir,  to  se  thame  raik  on  raw. 
Court  men  to  cum  to  the,  thay  stand  grait  aw, 
Sayand,  thy  burgh  bene  of  all  burrowis  baill. 
Because,  in  the,  they  never  gat  gude  aill.' 

In  1715  Bob  Eoy  and  his  followers,  who  had  hung 
about  Sheriffmuir,  without  taking  part  with  either  side 
in  that  struggle,  marched  to  Falkland,  and,  seizing  the 
place,  levied  contributions  from  the  district. 

Owing  to  its  courtly  smTOundiugs,  Falkland  long  showed 
superior  refinement  in  its  inhabitants  ;  and  '  Falkland 
bred '  had  become  an  adage.     The  superiority,  however. 


FALKLAND,  NEWTON  OF 

of  Falkland  breeding  is,  like  the  former  grandeur  of  the 
town  and  palace,  now  among  the  things  that  were.  The 
place  is  remarkable  also  for  a  reminiscence  of  a  totally 
opposite  kind.  '  A  singular  set  of  vagrants  existed  long 
in  Falkland  called  Scrapies,  who  had  no  other  visible 
means  of  existence  than  a  horse  or  a  cow.  Their 
ostensible  employment  was  the  carriage  of  commodities 
to  the  adjoining  villages  ;  and  in  the  intervals  of  work 
they  turned  out  their  cattle  to  graze  on  the  Lomond  hill. 
Their  excursions  at  night  were  long  and  mysterious,  for 
the  pretended  object  of  procuring  coals ;  but  they  roamed 
with  their  little  carts  through  the  country-side,  seeming 
whatever  they  could  lift,  and  plundering  fields  in  autumn. 
Whenever  any  inquiry  was  addressed  to  a  Falkland 
Scrapie  as  to  the  support  of  his  horse,  the  ready  answer 
was — "Ou,  he  gangs  up  the  (Lomond)  hill  ye  ken."' 
The  enclosing  of  the  hill  and  the  decay  of  the  town, 
however,  put  an  end  to  this  vagrancy. 

The  parish  of  Falkland  contains  also  the  villages  of 
Feeuohie  and  Ne^vton  of  Falkland.  It  is  bounded  N 
by  Auchtermuchty,  E  by  Kettle,  SE  by  Markinch,  S 
by  Leslie,  SW  by  Portmoak  in  Kinross-shire,  and  W 
and  NW  by  Strathmiglo.  Its  greatest  length,  from  E 
to  "VV,  is  5§  miles ;  its  greatest  breadth,  from  N  to  S, 
is  3|  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  8265^  acres.  By  Couland, 
Maspie,  and  other  small  burns,  the  drainage  is  carried 
partly  southward  to  the  Leven,  but  mainly  northward 
to  the  Eden,  which  flows  just  outside  the  northern 
boundary ;  and  the  highest  point  in  Falkland  between 
the  two  river-basins  is  the  East  Lojioxd  (1471  feet), 
since  the  loftier  West  Lomond  (1713)  falls  within  the 
Strathmiglo  border.  The  parts  of  the  parish  to  the  N 
and  E  of  the  town  sink  to  130  feet  above  the  sea,  and  are 
almost  a  dead  level ;  but  most  of  the  surface  is  finely 
diversified  with  gentle  valleys  and  wooded  hUlsides. 
The  rocks  are  variously  eruptive  and  carboniferous — 
greenstone  and  limestone ;  and  a  vein  of  galena,  dis- 
covered about  1783  on  the  S  side  of  the  East  Lomond, 
was  thought  to  be  argentiferous,  but  never  repaid  the 
cost  of  working.  The  soil,  too,  varies,  but  is  mainly  a 
fertile  light  friable  loam.  Woods  and  plantations  cover 
some  400  acres ;  about  a  fifth  of  the  entire  area  is 
pastoral  or  waste  ;  and  all  the  rest  of  the  land  is  under 
cultivation.  Kilgour,  2^  mUes  W  by  N  of  the  town, 
was  the  site  of  the  ancient  parish  church,  and  anciently 
gave  name  to  the  entire  parish.  Traces  of  several  pre- 
historic forts  are  on  the  Lomond  hills ;  remains  of 
extensive  ancient  military  lines  are  in  the  lands  of  Nut- 
hill  ;  and  several  old  coins,  chiefly  of  Charles  I.  and 
Charles  II. ,  have  been  found  among  the  ruins  of  Falk- 
land Palace.  The  '  Jenny  Nettles '  of  song  hanged 
herself  on  a  tree  in  Falkland  Wood,  and  was  buried 
under  a  cairn  on  the  Nuthill  estate.  Falkland  House, 
or  Nuthill,  f  mile  W  of  the  town,  was  built  in  1839-44, 
after  designs  by  Mr  Burn,  of  Edinburgh,  at  a  cost  of  at 
least  £30,000,  and  is  a  fine  edifice  in  the  Tudor  style, 
with  a  pleasant  well-wooded  park.  Its  owner,  Andrew 
Hamilton  Tyndall-Bruce,  Esq.  (b.  1842;  sue.  1874), 
holds  7058  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £10,092  per 
annum.  Three  other  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual 
value  of  £500  and  upwards,  9  of  between  £100  and 
£500,  10  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  31  of  from  £20  to 
£50.  In  the  presbytery  of  Cupar  and  synod  of  Fife, 
this  parish  since  1880  has  been  ecclesiastically  divided 
into  Freuchie  and  Falkland,  the  latter  a  living  worth 
£358.  Two  public  schools,  Falkland  and  Freuchie, 
with  respective  accommodation  for  280  and  255  children, 
had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  182  and  255,  and 
grants  of  £169,  Is.  4d.  and  £178, 10s.  Valuation  (1866) 
£10,847,  6s.  lid.,  (1882)  £12,518,  16s.  2d.  Pop. 
(1801)  2211,  (1831)  2658,  (1861)  2937,  (1871)  3069, 
(1881)  2698,  of  whom  1581  were  in  Falkland  q.  s.  parish. 
—Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  40,  1867.  See  James  AV.  Taylor's 
Some  Historical  Antiquities,  chiefly  Ecclesiastical,  con- 
nected with  Falkland,  Kettle,  and  Leslie  (Cupar,  1861). 

Falkland,  Neivton  of,  a  village  in  Falkland  parish, 
Fife,  1  mile  E  by  S  of  Falkland  town.     It  carries  on 
some  manufactures    of   dowlas  and    sheeting,    and  is 
inhabited  principally  by  weavers. 
8 


FANNYSIDE 

Falkland  Road,  a  statioj  near  the  meeting-point 
of  Falkland,  Kettle,  and  Markinch  parishes,  Fife,  on 
the  Edinburgh,  Perth,  and  Dundee  section  of  the  North 
British  railway,  3  miles  NNW  of  Markinch  Junction. 

Fallen  Rocks,  a  vast  mass  of  blocks  of  Old  Red 
sandstone  on  the  N  coast  of  Arran  island,  Buteshire, 
2  miles  NNW  of  Sannox.  They  occur  on  the  sea-face 
of  an  isolated  mountain  ridge,  5J  miles  long  and  \\ 
mile  broad,  so  situated  as  to  compel  the  coast-road 
round  the  island  to  make  a  detour  there  inland  ;  they 
consist  of  masses  hurled  from  an  overhanging  cliff  which 
fell  in  the  way  of  landslip  ;  they  strew  a  steep  slope  and 
a  skirting  beach  in  magnificent  confusion  ;  they  look 
like  a  rocky  avalanche  rushing  to  the  shore,  and  form  a 
piece  of  singularly  striking  scenery ;  and  they  can  be 
approached  on  land  only  on  foot  and  by  wary  walking. 

Falloch,  a  rivulet  of  Perth  and  Dumbarton  shires, 
rising,  at  an  altitude  of  2600  feet  above  sea-level,  on 
Ben-a-Chp.oin^,  close  to  the  southern  border  of  Killin 
parish.  Thence  it  runs  3J  miles  north-by-westward  to 
a  point  (563  feet)  IJ  mile  SW  of  Crianlarich  Hotel,  and 
thence  3J  miles  south-westward,  3J  miles  southward, 
tUl  it  falls  into  the  head  of  Loch  Lomond  (23  feet)  at 
Ardlui.  The  chief  of  its  many  mountain  affluents  are 
the  Dubh  Eas  and  the  AUt  Arnan  or  Alderstan  on  the 
right,  and  the  Allt  Inse  on  the  left.  From  the  point 
where  it  turns  southward,  it  traverses  the  romantic 
glen  named  after  it  Glen  Falloch  ;  forms,  in  one 
part,  a  fine  cascade  ;  and  has  mostly  a  rapid  current, 
though  finally  it  subsides  into  comparative  sluggishness. 
Its  trout,  as  a  rule,  run  small,  but  are  so  plentiful  that 
from  ten  to  twelve  dozen  have  been  taken  by  one  rod  in 
the  course  of  a  few  hours. — Ord.  Swr.,  shs.  46,  38, 
1872-71. 

Fallside,  a  station  in  Bothwell  parish,  Lanarkshire, 
on  tlie  Glasgow  South-Side  and  SlotherweU  branch  of 
the  Caledonian  raUway,  1  mile  ESE  of  Uddingston. 

Falside,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Kinneff  parish, 
Kincardineshire,  3  miles  N  by  E  of  Bervie. 

Falside  Castle,  an  ancient  peel-tower  in  Tranent 
parish,  Haddingtonshire,  2  miles  SW  of  Tranent  town, 
and  2|  ESE  of  Musselburgh.  The  E  part  of  its  stone 
vaulted  roof  remains ;  and  a  building,  a  little  to  the 
SW,  though  later,  is  quite  as  ruinous.  Standing  high, 
420  feet  above  sea-level,  Falside  commands  on  a  clear 
day  a  glorious  view  of  the  Pentlands,  Arthur's  Seat,  the 
Firth  of  Forth,  North  Berwick  Law,  and  the  Bass. 
Early  in  the  14th  century,  under  King  Robert  the 
Bruce,  the  lands  of  Falside  were  forfeited  by  Alexander 
de  Such,  who  had  married  a  daughter  of  Roger  de 
Quincy,  Earl  of  Winchester ;  and  they  came  then  to 
the  great  Seton  family,  one  of  whose  younger  branches 
styled  themselves  Setons  of  Falside.  A  spot  near  the 
castle  was  the  scene  of  a  disastrous  skirmish  in  1547, 
on  the  day  before  the  battle  of  Pinkie. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
32,  1857. 

Fanna,  a  hill  near  the  meeting-point  of  Hobkirk, 
Southdean,  and  Castleton  parishes,  Roxburghshire, 
forming  part  of  the  watershed  between  Teviotdale  and 
Liddesdale,  8J  miles  SE  of  Hawick.  It  has  an  alti- 
tude of  1687  feet  above  sea-level. 

Fannich,  Loch,  a  lake  of  Contin  parish,  towards  the 
centre  of  Ross  and  Cromarty.  Lying  822  feet  above 
sea-level,  it  extends  6|  miles  east-south-eastward  and 
east-by-northward,  has  a  varying  -width  of  3  and  7 
furlongs,  and  sends  off  a  stream  6J  miles  east-south- 
eastward to  Loch  Luichart.  On  its  northern  shore,  lo 
miles  WNW  of  Garve  station,  stands  the  shooting- 
lodge  of  Fannich  deer-forest,  a  mountainous  region, 
whose  loftiest  summit  is  Sgurr  Mor  (3657  feet),  3|  miles 
N  of  the  loch.  There  are  boats  on  the  latter,  but  the 
trout  are  small  and  none  too  plentiful. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
92,  1881. 

Fannyside,  a  shallow  loch  and  a  moor  in  Cumber- 
nauld parish,  Dumbartonshire.  The  loch,  2|  miles  SE 
of  Cumbernauld  town,  lies  550  feet  above  sea-level,  and 
measures  6|  furlongs  in  length  by  from  1  to  2  furlongs 
in  breadth.  It  contains  a  few  pike  and  perch,  but  no 
trout.      The  moor  lies  around  the  loch,  chiefly  on  tha 


I 


FAR 

N  side,  comprises  upwards  of  3  square  miles,  and  has 
traces  of  a  Roman  road,  running  soutliward  from  Castlc- 
cary.— 0/-rf.  Sur.,  sir.  31,  1S67. 

Far.     Sue  Farr. 

Faray.     See  Pharay. 

Fare,  Hill  of,  a  broad-based  granitic  eminence  on  the 
mutual  border  of  Aberdeen  and  Kincardine  shires, 
belonging  to  the  parishes  of  Echt,  Midmar,  Kincardine 
O'Neil,  and  Banchory-Ternan,  and  culminating,  at 
1545  feet  above  sea-level,  4j  miles  NNW  of  Banchory 
village.  It  forms  part  of  tlie  northern  screen  of  the 
basin  of  the  Dee,  is  partly  dissevered  by  the  marshy 
hollow  of  CoRRicHiE,  contains  some  valuable  peat 
moss,  and  affords  excellent  pasture  for  numerous  flocks 
of  sheep,  producing  mutton  of  very  superior  flavour, 
whilst  its  fine  luxuriant  heaths  abound  in  moor-fowl, 
hares,  and  other  game. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  76,  1874. 

Farg,  a  stream  of  Perthshire  chiefly,  but  partly  of 
Kinross-shu'e  and  Fife,  rising  among  tlie  Ochils  at  an 
altitude  of  800  feet  above  sea-level,  and  5|  miles  N  by 
W  of  Milnathort.  Thence  it  winds  lOJ  miles  south- 
south-westward,  east-by-southward,  and  north-north- 
eastward, bounding  or  traversing  the  parishes  of  Forgan- 
denny,  Arngask,  Dron,  and  Abernethy,  till,  at  a  point 
If  mile  NW  of  Abernethy  town,  it  falls  into  the  river 
Earn.  Containing  plenty  of  burn  trout,  it  mostly 
traverses  a  deep,  narrow,  romantic,  wooded  glen,  called 
from  it  Glen  Farg  ;  and  it  is  followed,  down  that  glen, 
by  the  turnpike  road  from  Edinburgli  to  Perth.  On 
6  Sept.  1S42  the  Queen  and  Prince  Albert  drove  down 
'  the  valley  of  Glen  Farg  ;  the  hills  are  very  high  on  each 
side,  and  completely  wooded  down  to  the  bottom  of  the 
valley,  where  a  small  stream  runs  on  one  side  of  the 
the  road — it  is  really  lovely.' — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  40,  48, 
1867-68. 

Farigaig,  a  troutful  stream  of  the  Nairnshire  portion 
of  Daviot  parish,  and  of  Dores  parish,  NE  Inverness- 
shire.  It  is  formed,  840  feet  above  sea-level,  and  1  mile 
WE  of  Dunmaglass  Lodge,  by  the  confluence  of  two 
head-streams,  the  longer  of  which,  the  AUt  Uisg  an  t- 
Sithein,  rises  at  an  altitude  of  2500  feet,  and  runs  6| 
miles  north-by-westward.  From  their  point  of  con- 
fluence the  Farigaig  winds  8^  miles  north-north-west- 
ward and  south-westward,  till  it  falls  into  Loch  Ness  at 
Inverfarigaig,  2J  miles  NNE  of  Foyers.  It  receives  a 
rivulet  running  J  mile  west-by-southward  from  Loch 
RuTHVES  (2J  miles  x  4J  furl.  ;  700  feet),  and  it  traverses 
a  deep  and  finely  wooded  defile. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  73, 
1878. 

Farkin  or  Firkin,  a  small  bay  and  a  small  headland 
in  Arrochar  parish,  Dumbartonshire,  on  the  W  side  of 
Loch  Lomond,  1|  mile  NNW  of  Rowardennan  Ferr}'. 

Farland  Head.    See  Kilbride,  "West. 

Farme,  a  mansion  in  Rutherglen  parish,  Lanarkshire, 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Clyde,  1  mile  N  by  E  of  Ruther- 
glen. Consisting  of  a  very  ancient  castellated  structure 
in  a  state  of  high  preservation,  with  harmonious  modern 
additions,  it  forms  one  of  the  finest  specimens  of  the  old 
baronial  mansion-house  in  the  W  of  Scotland.  The 
estate,  which  mainly  consists  of  extensive  fertile  haugh 
half  engirt  by  a  bold  sweep  of  the  Clyde,  belonged  to 
successively  the  royal  Stewarts,  the  Crawfords,  the 
Stewarts  of  Minto,  the  Flemings,  and  the  Hamiltons, 
and  now  is  held  Isy  Allan  Farie,  Esq.  (b.  1832 ;  sue. 
1879),  who  owns  295  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £3139 
per  annum,  including  £1537  for  minerals. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  31,  1867. 

Famell,  a  parish  of  E  Forfarshire,  whose  church 
stands  on  the  southern  side  of  the  pretty  Den  of  Farnell, 
4  mUes  SSE  of  the  post-town  Brechin,  and  1  furlong 
2SrW  of  Farnell  Road  station  on  the  Scottish  North- 
Eastern  section  of  the  Caledonian,  this  being  3J  miles 
SW  of  Bridge  of  Dun  Junction. 

The  parish  is  bounded  W,  NW,  and  N  by  Brechin,  NE 
by  Dun,  E  by  Maryton,  SE  by  Craig,  S  by  Kiunell  and 
Maryton  (detached),  and  SW  by  Guthrie.  Its  length, 
from  E  by  N"  to  "W  by  S,  varies  between  2i  and  4|  miles ; 
its  utmost  breadth  is  3J  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  5755  acres, 
of  which  49  J  lie  detached,  and  52-!-  are  water.  The  river 
38 


FARE 

South  EsK  winds  1|  mile  east-by-southward  along  the 
northern  border,  and  just  beyond  the  NE  corner  of  the 
parish  receives  Pow  Burn,  which,  coming  in  from  Kin- 
nell,  and  running  north-eastward  across  the  south-eastern 
interior,  then  along  the  Maryton  boundary,  itself  is 
joined  by  two  or  three  rivulets  from  the  W.  In  the  NE 
the  surface  declines  to  20  feet  above  sea-level,  thence 
rising  gently  to  200  feet  at  the  western  border,  and  more 
rapidly  southward  to  446  on  Ross  Muir.  '  The  whole 
of  Farnell  belongs  to  the  Earl  of  Southesk,  whose  estate 
is  one  of  the  most  compact  and  desirable  in  the  county, 
extending  as  it  does  to  22,525  acres,  and  bringing  an 
annual  rental  of  £21,811.  The  soU  is  mostly  a  clayey 
loam,  in  parts  rather  stiff,  and  in  others  of  a  moorish 
texture.  The  subsoil  is  chiefly  clay,  mixed  with  gi-avel, 
and  resting  on  the  Old  Red  sandstone.  On  the  higher 
parts  whinstone  shoots  up  here  and  there  to  within  a  few 
inches  of  the  surface,'  etc.  {Trans.  Highl.  and  Ag.  Soc, 
1881,  pp.  87-89).  Farnell  Castle,  J  mile  WNW  of  the 
church,  was  visited  by  Edward  I.  of  England  on  7  July 
1296,  and  first  is  heard  of  as  a  grange  or  residence  of  the 
Bishops  of  Brechin.  Now  turned  into  an  almshouse  for 
old  women,  it  is  a  plain  three-story  pile,  with  a  turn- 
pike staircase  on  its  southern  front ;  the  oldest  or  SW 
part  was  built  about  the  beginning  of  the  16th  century, 
perhaps  by  Bishop  Meldrum.  Bishop  Campbell  re- 
signed the  lands  of  Farnell  in  1566  to  his  patron  and 
chief,  the  fifth  Earl  of  Argyll,  who  within  two  years 
bestowed  them  on  his  kinswoman,  Catharine,  Countess 
of  Crawford.  Her  grand-daughter  married  Sir  David 
Carnegie  of  Kinnaird,  afterwards  Earl  of  Southesk  ;  and 
with  his  descendants,  save  for  the  period  of  their  for- 
feiture (1716-64),  Farnell  has  since  continued.  Kinnaird 
Castle  is  noticed  separately.  Since  1787  comprising 
gi'eat  part  of  the  ancient  parish  of  Cuikstone  or  Kin- 
naird, Farnell  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Brechin  and 
synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns  ;  the  living  is  worth  £385. 
The  church,  on  a  rising-ground,  surrounded  by  fine  old 
trees,  is  a  neat  Gothic  edifice  of  1806,  containing  330 
sittings  ;  an  ancient  stone  monument  found  here,  with 
carving  on  it  of  the  Fall  of  Adam,  is  figured  in  Dr  John 
Stuart's  Sculptured  Stones  of  Scotland  (1867).  Farnell 
public  school,  with  accommodation  for  138  children,  had 
(1881)  an  average  attendance  of  120,  and  a  grant  of  £106. 
Valuation  (1857)  £5692,  (1882)  £7142,  14s.  6d.,  2}lus 
£1259  for  railway.  Pop.  (1801)  576,  (1831)  582,  (1861) 
703,  (1871)  580,  (1881)  613.— Ord  Sur.,  sh.  57,  1868. 
See  chap.  ii.  of  Andrew  Jervise's  Memorials  of  Angus 
and  Mearns  {Ediuh.  1861). 

Famell  Road.    See  Farnell. 

Famua.    See  Kikkhill,  Inverness-shire. 

Famwell.     See  Farnell. 

Farout  Head  or  Fair-aird,  a  promontory  in  Durness 
parish,  N  Sutherland,  projecting  2J  miles  north-north- 
westward, between  Balnakiel  or  Baile  na  CiUe  Bay  on 
the  W  and  the  entrance  to  Loch  ErihoU  on  the  E,  tUl  it 
terminates  in  a  point  8i  miles  ESE  of  Cape  Wrath.  Its 
sides  rise  in  rocky  cliti's  to  a  height  of  329  feet  above 
sea-level,  and  present  a  sublime  appearance  ;  its  summit 
commands  a  magnificent  view  from  Cape  Wrath  to 
Whiten  Head.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  114,  1880. 

Farr,  a  hamlet  and  a  parish  on  the  N  coast  of  Suther- 
land. The  hamlet,  Bettyhill  of  Farr,  lies  at  the  head 
of  Farr  Bay,  9  furlongs  E  of  the  mouth  of  the  river 
Naver,  30  miles  W  by  S  of  Thurso,  and  27  NNE  of 
Altnaharrow ;  at  it  are  an  inn  and  a  post  office  under 
Thurso,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph 
departments. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  hamlets  of  Altna- 
harrow, Aksiadale,  and  Strathy,  is  bounded  N  by 
the  North  Sea,  E  by  Reay  and  Kildonan,  SE  by  Clyne, 
S  by  Rogart,  SW  by  Lairg,  and  W  by  Durness  and 
Tongue.  Its  utmost  length,  from  NNE  to  SSW,  is  32 
miles  ;  its  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  varies  between  8J  and 
18J  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  195,197  acres,  of  which  343 
are  foreshore  and  6422J  water.  The  coast-line,  21i  miles 
long  if  one  follows  its  ins  and  outs,  but  only  11  mea- 
sured along  a  straight  line,  is  indented  from  E  to  W  by 
Strathy,  Armadale,  Kirtomy,  and  Farr  Baj-s,  and  pro- 

9 


FARE 

jects  a  prominent  headland  in  Strathy  Point  (287  feet), 
lesser  ones  in  Kirtomy  Point  (467),  Fair  Pomt  (369), 
and  Creag  Riiadh  (331).  It  is  'composed,'  says  Mr 
Archibald  Young,  '  either  of  bold  rocks  from  20  to  200 
feet  high,  against  which  the  waves  of  the  North  Sea 
break  with  fearful  violence,  or  of  shallow  sands,  on 
which  heavy  surges  are  generally  rolling.  Yet,  on  all 
this  extent  of  coast,  there  is  nothing  worthy  of  the 
name  of  a  harbour  ;  though  at  Kirtomy  and  Armadale, 
and  in  one  or  two  creeks,  boats  may  land  in  moderate 
weather.  It  is  impossible  to  doubt  that  this  want  of 
harbour  accommodation  for  fishing  boats  very  much 
hinders  the  prosecution  of  the  fishings  of  cod,  ling, 
haddocks,  and  herrings,  which  abound  off  the  coast, 
and  that  the  establishment  of  a  commodious  and  secure 
landing-place  for  boats  would  be  a  great  boon  to  the 
district,'  etc.  (pp.  45-50,  Sutherland,  1880).  Inland, 
the  surface  is  everywhere  hilly  or  mountainous,  from  N 
to  S  attaining  553  feet  at  Naver  Rock,  1728  at  Beinn's 
Tomaine,  3154  at  conical  *Ben  Clibeiok,  2669  at  the 
*NE  shoulder  of  Ben  Hee,  and  2278  at  *Creag  nah- 
lolaire,  where  asterisks  mark  those  summits  that  cul- 
minate on  the  confines  of  the  parish.  Loch  Navek  (6J 
miles  X  4^  furl.  ;  247  feet)  lies  towards  the  SW,  and, 
whilst  receiving  the  river  of  Mudale  and  other  streams 
at  its  head,  discharges  from  its  foot  the  river  Naver, 
winding  18|  miles  north-by-eastward  to  the  sea.  The 
Naver,  |  mile  below  its  efflux  from  Loch  Naver,  is 
joined  by  the  Malert,  which  itself  flows  7  miles  north- 
north-eastward  out  of  Loch  Coir' an  Fhearna(3  J  miles  X  3^ 
furl.  ;  570  iebt),  a  lake  that  lies  towards  the  southern 
extremity  of  Farr,  and  at  its  head  communicates  by  a 
narrow  channel  with  Loch  a'  Bealaich  (1§  x  J  mile). 
The  eastern  shore  of  Loch  Loyal  likewise  belongs  to 
Farr,  and  its  effluent,  the  Borgie,  above  and  below 
Borgie  Bridge  traces  2J  miles  of  the  boundary  with 
Tongue ;  on  the  eastern  border  lies  Loch  nan  Cuinne 
(3x1  mile  ;  392  feet),  the  westernmost  of  the  Baden 
chain  of  lakes,  so  that  the  drainage  partly  belongs  to 
the  basin  of  Helmsdale  river.  Out  of  Loch  Strathy 
(7  X  2S  furl.  ;  646  feet)  Strathy  Water  runs  14J  miles 
north-by-eastward  to  Strathy  Bay,  and  drains,  with  its 
affluents,  the  NE  district  of  Farr,  whose  chief  other 
stream  is  Armadale  "Water,  running  5  miles  north-by- 
eastward  to  Armadale  Bay,  whilst  of  lakes  bej'ond  num- 
ber one  other  only  needs  notice — Loch  Meadie  (1§  x  J 
mile  ;  405  feet).  The  rocks  on  the  seaboard  are  mainly 
Devonian,  and  granite  and  gneiss  prevail  throughout 
the  interior.  A  whitish  sandstone,  capable  of  fine 
dressing  by  the  chisel,  has  been  quarried  at  Strathy ; 
and  near  it  is  limestone,  of  first-rate  manurial  quality. 
Along  Strathnaver,  the  finest  strath  perhaps  in  all  the 
county,  there  is  a  considerable  extent  of  good  haugh 
land,  a  mixture  of  sand,  gravel,  and  moss ;  and  along 
the  Strathy,  too,  there  are  here  and  there  arable  patches 
of  fertile  thin  sandy  soil.  Sheep-farming,  however,  is 
the  staple  industry,  the  largest  of  several  large  sheep 
farms  being  Langdale,  Rhifail,  Clebrig,  and  Armadale. 
The  scanty  vestiges  of  Boeve  tower  have  been  separately 
noticed ;  '  duns,'  barrows,  and  standing  stones  make  up 
the  remaining  antiqmties.  The  Duke  of  Sutherland  is 
sole  proprietor.  In  the  presbytery  of  Tongue  and  synod 
of  Sutherland  and  Caithness,  this  parish  is  divided  eccle- 
siastically into  Farr  and  Strathy,  the  former  a  living 
worth  £206.  Its  church,  built  in  1774,  was  restored  in 
1882 ;  in  the  churchyard  is  a  very  early  stone  obelisk, 
sculptured  with  crosses  and  other  emblems.  Two  public 
schools,  Farr  and  Strathy,  mth  respective  accommodation 
for  125  and  99  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance 
of  45  and  34,  and  grants  of  £30, 14s.  and  £25,  8s.  Valua- 
tion (1860)  £5496,  (1882)  £10,390,  19s.  8d.  Pop.  (1801) 
2408,  (1831)  2073,  (1861)  2103,  (1871)  2019,  (1881)  1930, 
of  whom  1140  were  in  Farr  q.  s.  parish,  and  790  in  that 
of  Strathy.— Or(?.  Sur.,  shs.  114,  115,  108,  109, 1878-80. 
Faxr,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Daviot  and  Dun- 
lichity  parish,  Inverness-shire,  on  the  Nairn's  left  bank, 
6%  miles  SSW  of  Daviot  church.  Its  owner,  Francis 
Henry  Pottinger  Mackintosh,  Esq.  (b.  1840;  sue.  1880), 
holds  4500  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £935  per  annum. 
10 


FASKTACLOICH 

Farragon  Hill,  a  mountain  in  Dull  parish,  Perthshire, 
4  miles  NNW  of  Aberfeldy.  It  rises  to  an  altitude  of 
2559  feet  above  sea-level,  and  commands  an  extensive 
view  over  a  wild  mountainous  country. 

Farraline,  Loch,  a  lake  of  Dores  parish,  NE  Inverness- 
shire,  3  miles  E  by  S  of  Inverfarigaig.  Lying  650  feet 
above  sea-level,  it  has  an  utmost  length  and  width  of  9 
and  2J  furlongs,  abounds  in  trout,  and  sends  off  a  stream 
3|  miles  north-north-eastward  to  the  Farigaig.  A  num- 
ber of  muskets,  discovered  here  in  1841,  in  the  course 
of  drainage  operations,  were  supposed  to  have  been 
thrown  into  the  loch  during  the  troubles  of  the  '45. — 
—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  73,  1878. 

Farrer,  a  small  river  of  Ross  and  Inverness  shires. 
It  rises  among  mountains  of  SW  Ross-shire,  9  miles  E 
of  the  head  of  Loch  Carron,  and  thence  winds  27  J  miles 
east-north-eastward  and  east-by-southward,  expanding 
at  various  points  into  Lochs  Monae,  Miulie,  and 
Bunacharan  (IJ  mile  x  2J  furl.  ;  367  feet),  till,  5  fur- 
longs S  by  W  of  Eechless  Castle,  it  unites  with  the 
Glass  to  form  the  river  Beatjly.  Its  glen,  Strath- 
farrer,  is  a  series  of  circular  meadowy  spaces,  two  of 
them  occupied  by  Lochs  Miulie  and  Bunacharan,  and  all 
flanked  by  bold,  rocky,  intricate,  mountainous  accli- 
vities, partly  fringed  with  wood  ;  and  it  displays  a  rich 
variety  of  picturesque  scenery.  Its  waters  are  well 
stocked  with  trout  and  grilse.  A  carriage  road,  striking 
into  Strathfarrer  from  Strathglass,  crosses  the  river, 
near  its  mouth,  by  a  strong  bridge,  and  ascends  the 
glen  to  the  foot  of  Loch  Monar ;  and  a  footpath  goes 
thence,  through  a  wild  mountain  region,  and  partly 
through  a  mountain  pass,  to  Lochs  Carron  and  Alsh. 
Masses  of  graphite  or  black  lead  lie  embedded  among 
gneiss  rocks  in  the  mouth  of  Strathfarrer.  — Ord.  Sur. , 
shs.  82,  83,  1882-81. 

Farthingbank,  a  hamlet  in  Durisdeer  parish,  NAV 
Dumfriesshire,  near  the  right  bank  of  the  Nith,  5h  miles 
NNW  of  Thornhill. 

Fascadale,  a  place  on  the  northern  coast  of  Aid- 
namurchan  parish,  Argyllshire,  20  miles  NNW  of 
Salen,  in  Mull.  'The  Oban  and  Skye  steamer  touches 
here. 

Faseny  Water,  a  Lammermuir  rivulet  of  Garvald  and 
Whittingham  parishes,  S  Haddingtonshire,  rising  close 
to  the  Berwickshire  border  at  an  altitude  of  1550  feet 
above  sea-level,  and  winding7i  miles  east-north-eastward 
till  it  falls  into  the  Whitadder  at  Mill  Knowe,  3  miles 
WNW  of  Cranshaws  church.  It  possesses  great  interest 
to  geologists  as  exposing  a  fine  section  of  the  Lammer- 
muir rocks,  and  is  well  stocked  with  trout. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  33,  1863. 

Faskally,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Moulin  parish, 
Perthshire,  at  the  confluence  of  the  rivers  Tummel  and 
Garry,  2  miles  NW  of  Pitlochry.  Nature  and  art 
have  combined  to  render  it  '  a  very  pretty  place, '  as 
Queen  Victoria  styles  it  in  her  Journal,  11  Sept.  1844. 
Its  owner,  Archibald  Butter,  Esq.  (b.  and  sue.  1805), 
held  17,586  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £5670  per 
annum. 

Faskine,  an  estate  and  a  village  in  Old  Monkland 
parish,  Lanarkshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  North  Calder 
Water,  |  m:  W  of  Calderbank.  The  estate  contains 
coal  and  ironstone  mines,  worked  from  an  earlier  period 
than  any  others  in  the  great  Clydesdale  mineral  field. 
Pop.  (1861)  514,  (1871)  656,  (1881)  475. 

Faslane,  a  small  bay  in  Row  parish,  Dumbartonshire, 
on  the  E  side  of  Gare  Loch,  IJ  mile  SSE  of  Gareloch- 
head.  An  ancient  castle  of  the  Earls  of  Lennox  here 
is  now  represented  by  only  a  grassy  mound  ;  but  a 
pre-Reformation  chapel,  dedicated  to  St  Michael,  has  left 
some  vestiges. 

Fasnacloich,  a  mansion  in  Lisniore  and  Appin  parish, 
Argyllshire,  in  Glencreran,  2J  miles  NE  of  the  head  of 
Loch  Creran,  and  13|  N  of  Taynuilt  station.  It  stands 
on  the  NW  shore  of  Loch  BaUe  Mhic  ChaUein  or  Fasna- 
cloich (4J  x  If  furl.),  a  beautiful  expansion  of  the  river 
Creran,  containing  plenty  of  sea-trout  and  salmon  ;  and 
it  is  the  seat  of  John  Campbell  Stewart,  Esq.  (b.  1832), 
who  holds  5000  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £736  per 


FASNAKYLE 


FAULDHOUSE 


inrium.  There  is  a  post  office  of  Fasnacloicli. — Onl. 
Sur.,  sli.  53,  1877. 

Fasnakyle,  a  mansion  in  Kilmorack  parish,  Inverness- 
shire,  at  tlie  confluence  of  the  Affric  and  Amhuiun 
Deabhaidli  to  form  the  river  Glass,  2|  miles  SW  of 
Gleualfric  Hotel. 

Fasque,  a  mansion  in  Fettercairn  parish,  SW  Kincar- 
dineshire, between  Crichie  Burn  and  the  burnof  Garrol,  1| 
mile  N  by  W  of  Fettercairn  village.  Built  in  1S08-9  at  a 
costof  £30,000  by  Sir  Thomas  Ramsay  of  Balmain,  seventh 
Bart,  since  1625,  it  is  a  large  palatial  looking  edifice, 
commanding  a  wide  prospect,  and  surroimded  by  beauti- 
ful and  extensive  policies,  with  a  lake  (3x1  furl.) 
and  many  trees  of  great  dimensions  and  rare  grandeur. 
The  Fasque  estate,  held  by  the  Eamsays  from  the  15th 
century,  was  purchased  about  1S2S  by  the  Liverpool 
merchant,  Mr  John  Gladstones  (1764-1851),  who  in  1846 
was  created  a  baronet  as  Sir  John  Gladstone  of  Fasque 
and  Balfour,  and  whose  fourth  son  is  the  Premier, 
William  Ewart  Gladstone  (b.  1809).  The  eldest.  Sir 
Thomas  Gladstone,  D.C.L.,  second  Bart.  (b.  1804),  pos- 
sesses 45,062  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £9175  per 
annum.  '  The  Fasque  property,'  WTites  Mr  James 
Macdonald  in  Trans.  Highl.  and  Ag.  Soc,  1881,  pp. 
114,115,  '  now  extends  from  Fettercairn  village  to  within 
less  than  10  miles  of  Banchory  on  Deeside,  a  distance  of 
over  16  miles.  By  far  the  greater  portion  lies  on  the 
Grampian  range,  and  consists  of  black  heath-clad  hills 
intersected  by  numerous  valleys  or  small  straths  in  which 
there  is  a  good  deal  of  green  pasture.  On  the  immense 
estate  of  Glendye,  pm-chased  by  Sir  Thomas  about 
1865  from  the  Earl  of  Southesk,  there  are  several  small 
farms  in  the  lower  parts  towards  Banchory,  while  on 
the  other  estates  there  is  a  large  extent  of  excellent 
arable  land,  mostly  good  rich  loam,  strong  and  deep  in 
some  parts  and  thin  in  others,  but  all  over  sound  and 
fertile.  The  property  contains  a  great  deal  of  valuable 
wood,  not  a  little  of  which  has  been  planted  by  Sir 
Thomas  and  his  father.  ...  A  very  commodious 
farm-steading  was  erected  on  the  home  farm  (670  acres) 
in  1872.'  The  Episcopal  church  of  Fasque,  St  Andrew's, 
was  built  by  Sir  John,  who  made  his  place  of  sepul- 
ture within  its  walls. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  66,  1871.      See 

BiGGAR. 

Fassifern,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  the  Argyll- 
shire section  of  Kilmallie  parish,  on  the  northern  shore 
of  Upper  Loch  Eil,  7  J  miles  WNW  of  Fort  William.  It 
was  the  seat  of  a  branch  of  the  Camerons,  to  which  be- 
longed Col.  John  Cameron  (1771-1815),  who  fell  at  Quatre 
Bras,  and  over  whose  grave  in  Kilmallie  churchyard  at 
Corpach  is  a  lofty  obelisk,  with  an  inscription  by  Sir 
Walter  Scott.  A  stone  quarry  on  the  estate  supplied 
material  for  constructing  the  Caledonian  Canal  and 
building  a  quay  at  Fort  William. 

Fast,  an  ancient  military  strength  in  Bedrule  parish, 
Roxburghshire,  1  furlong  NW  of  the  ruins  of  Bedrule 
Castle.  It  seems  to  have  been  an  outwork  of  the 
castle,  and  is  now  represented  by  merely  a  mound. 

Fast  Castle,  a  ruinous  sea-fortress  in  Coldingham 
parish,  Berwickshire,  perched  on  a  jutting  cliff  that 
beetles  70  feet  above  the  German  Ocean,  H  miles  NW 
of  Coldingham  village,  3  WNW  of  St  Abo's  Head,  and 
7  E  of  Cockburnspath  station.  Backed  by  high  grassy 
hni  slopes,  it  presents  one  shattered  side  of  a  low  square 
keep,  ^^•ith  a  fragment  more  shattered  still  overhanging 
the  sea-verge  of  its  rock,  which,  measuring  120  by  60 
feet,  is  accessible  only  by  a  path  a  few  feet  wide,  and 
formerly  was  c^uite  dissevered  from  the  mainland  by  a 
chasm  of  24  feet  in  width  that  was  crossed  by  a  draw- 
bridge. In  1410,  it  was  held  by  Thomas  Holden  and  an 
English  garrison,  who  had  long  harassed  the  country  by 
their  piUaging  excursions,  when  Patrick,  second  son  of 
the  Earl  of  Dunbar,  with  a  hundred  followers,  took  the 
castle  and  captured  the  governor.  According  to  Holin- 
shed,  Fast  Castle  again  fSl  into  the  hands  of  the  English, 
but  was  recovered  by  the  foUoiving  stratagem  in  1548— 
'  The  captain  of  Fast  Castle  had  commanded  the  hus- 
bandmen adjoining  to  bring  thither,  at  a  certain  day, 
gi-eat  store  of  victuals.      The  young  men  thereabouts. 


having  that  occasion,  assembled  thither  at  the  day  ap. 
pointed,  who,  taking  their  burdens  from  their  horses, 
and  laying  them  on  their  shoulders,  were  allowed  to 
pass  the  bridge,  which  joined  two  high  rocks,  into  the 
castle  ;  where,  laying  down  that  which  they  brought, 
they  suddenly,  by  a  sign  given,  set  upon  the  keepers  of 
the  gate,  slew  them,  and  before  the  other  Englishmen 
could  be  assembled,  possessed  the  other  places,  weapons, 
and  artillery  of  the  castle,  and  then  receiving  the  rest 
of  the  company  into  the  same,  through  the  same  great 
and  open  gate,  they  wholly  kept  and  enjoyed  the  castle 
for  their  countrymen.'  Sir  Nicolas  Throgmorton,  in 
1567,  characterises  it  as  a  place  '  fitter  to  lodge  prisoners 
than  folks  at  liberty;'  and,  in  1570,  when  only 
tenanted  by  ten  Scots,  Drury,  Marshal  of  Berwick,  after 
taking  Home  Castle,  was  sent  to  invest  Fast  Castle  with 
2000  men,  it  being  the  next  principal  place  that  be- 
longed to  the  Homes.  Passing  from  them  by  marriage 
about  1580,  '  Fast  Castle,'  says  Sir  Walter  Scott, 
in  his  Provincial  Antiquities,  '  became  the  appro- 
priate stronghold  of  one  of  the  darkest  characters  of 
that  age,  the  celebrated  Logan  of  Restalrig.  There 
is  a  contract  existing  in  the  charter-chest  of  Lord  Napier 
betwixt  Logan  and  a  very  opposite  character,  the  cele- 
brated inventor  of  logarithms,  the  terms  of  which 
are  extremely  singular.  The  paper  is  dated  July  1594, 
and  sets  forth — "Forasmuch  as  there  were  old  reports 
and  apipearances  that  a  sum  of  money  was  hid  within 
Jolm  Logan's  house  of  Fast  Castle,  John  Napier  should 
do  his  utmost  diligence  to  search  and  seek  out,  and  by 
all  craft  and  ingine  to  find  out  the  same,  and,  by  the 
grace  of  God,  shall  either  find  out  the  same,  or  make  it 
sure  that  no  such  thing  has  been  there."  For  his  reward 
he  was  to  have  the  extra  third  of  what  was  found,  and 
to  be  safely  guarded  by  Logan  back  to  Edinburgh. 
And  in  case  he  should  find  nothing,  after  all  trial  and 
diligence  taken,  he  refers  the  satisfaction  of  his  travel 
and  pains  to  the  discretion  of  Logan. '  Logan  was  next 
engaged  in  the  mysterious  Gowiie  Conspiracy  (1600). 
It  was  proposed  to  force  the  King  into  a  boat  from  the 
bottom  of  the  garden  of  Gowrie  House,  and  thence  con- 
duct him  by  sea  to  that  ruffian's  castle,  there  to  await 
the  disposal  of  Elizabeth  or  of  the  conspirators.  Logan's 
connection  with  this  affair  was  not  known  till  nine  years 
after  his  death,  when  the  correspondence  betwixt  him 
and  the  Earl  of  Gowrie  was  discovered  in  the  possession 
of  Sprott,  a  notary  public,  who  had  stolen  them  from 
one  John  Bour,  to  whom  they  were  intrusted.  Sprott 
was  executed,  and  Logan  was  condemned  for  high 
treason,  even  after  his  death,  his  bones  having  been 
brought  into  court  for  that  purpose.  Almost  gi'eater, 
however,  than  any  historic  interest  connected  with  Fast 
Castle  is  the  fictitious  one  with  which  Scott  invested  it 
in  his  Bride  of  Lamiiurmoor,  by  choosing  it  for  proto- 
type of  'Wolf's  Crag,'  the  solitary  and  naked  tower  of 
Edgar  Eavenswood. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  34,  1864.  See 
Perth,  Dirleton,  Baldoon,  and  chap,  xxxvi.  of  James 
F.  Hunnewell's  Xa?ids  0/ &o«  (Edinb.  1871). 

Fatlips  Castle,  an  ancient  fortalice  in  Minto  parish, 
Roxburghshire,  on  the  crown  of  Minto  Crags,  near  the 
left  bank  of  the  Teviot,  |  mile  EKE  of  Minto  House. 
Supposed  to  have  been  a  stronghold  of  the  TurnbuUs, 
it  is  figured  in  Grose's  Antiquities  of  Scotland,  and 
appears  there  as  still  comprising  two  stories  ;  but  it  is 
now  a  small  fragmentary  ruin. 

Fatlips  Castle,  an  ancient  fortalice  in  Symington 
parish,  Lanarkshire,  on  a  spur  projecting  from  the  SE 
skirt  of  Tinto  Hill,  2  miles  NNE  of  Wiston.  It  is  now 
represented  by  only  a  piece  of  wall  'about  6  feet  high 
and  fully  6  feet  thick. 

Fauldhouse,  a  mining  village  in  the  SW  corner  of 
■\Vhitburn  parish,  SW  Linlithgowshire,  with  a  station 
on  the  Cleland  and  Midealder  line  of  the  Caledonian, 
6J  miles  WSW  of  West  Calder.  Lying  in  a  bleak 
region  of  collieries,  ironstone  mines,  and  paraffin  works,  it 
stands  within  a  mile  of  Crofthead  and  Greenburn, 
rillages  simOar  to  itself,  and  practically  forms  one  with 
them.  It  has  a  post  office,  with  money  order,  savings' 
bank,    and  telegraph   departments,   a  branch    of   the 

1:1 


FAUNGRASS 


FEAEN 


National  Bank,  and  an  endowed  scliool.  An  Established 
Mission  church,  built  at  a  cost  of  £1700,  was  raised  to 
quoad  sacra  status  in  1872  ;  St  John's  Roman  Catholic 
church  (1873  ;  550  sittings)  is  a  good  Early  English 
edifice.  Pop.  of  Fauldhouse  and  Crofthead  (1871)  3151, 
(1881)  3000  ;  of  quoad  sacra  parish  (1881)  3933.— Ord 
Sur.,  sh.  31,  1867. 

Faungrass,  a  burn  in  Cranshaws  and  Greenlaw 
parishes,  Berwickshire,  rising  on  Evelaw,  among  the 
Lammermuirs,  on  the  SE  border  of  Cranshaws,  and 
running  5  miles  south-eastward  and  southward  to  Black- 
adder  Water,  at  a  point  If  mile  NW  of  Greenlaw  town, 
—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  25,  1865. 

Fawside.     See  Falside. 

Fea,  an  eminence  in  Cross  parish,  Sanday  Island, 
Orkney.  It  rises  gently  from  the  E,  terminates  in  a 
maritime  precipice  on  the  W,  is  pierced  in  the  base  of 
the  precipice  by  curious  caverns,  and  commands  from  its 
summit  very  fine  views. 

Feachan,  Feoohan,  or  Feuchan,  a  sea-loch  on  the 
mutual  boundary  of  Kilninver  and  Kilbride  parishes, 
Argyllshire.  Penetrating  the  land  4J  miles,  first  south- 
eastward, next  east-north-eastward,  it  is  1  mile  wide  at 
the  entrance,  and  from  1  furlong  to  J  mile  higher  up ;  has 
a  depth  of  15  fathoms  ;  is  flanked  by  high  rocky  promon- 
tories ;  receives  at  its  head  the  Nell,  and  at  Eihiinver 
the  Euchar  ;  and  at  the  time  of  spring  tides  has  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  wide  rapid  river. 

Feam,  a  village  and  a  coast  parish  of  NE  Ross  and 
Cromarty.  The  village.  Hill  of  Fearn,  stands  50  feet 
above  sea-level,  IJ  mile  E  by  S  of  Fearn  station,  on  the 
Highland  railway,  this  being  3J  miles  SE  of  Tain,  and 
22  NE  of  Dingwall ;  at  it  is  a  post  oflice,  with  money 
order,  savings'  bank,  and  railway  telegraph  departments. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  fishing  villages  of 
Balintore  and  Hilton  of  CadboU,  24  miles  SE  and  2| 
ESE  of  Hill  of  Fearn,  is  bounded  NW  by  Tain,  KE  by 
Tarbat,  SE  by  the  Moray  Firth,  S  by  Nigg,  and  SW  and 
W  by  Logie-Easter.  Its  utmost  length,  from  E  to  W,  is  5 
miles ;  its  utmost  breadth,  from  N  to  S,  is  4§  miles  ; 
and  its  area  is  7711g  acres,  of  which  123j  are  foreshore 
and  289J  water.  The  coast-line,  3J  miles  long,  rises 
steeply  near  Geanies  in  precipitous  cliff's  to  a  height  of 
200  feet  above  the  sea,  but  southward  is  low  and  sandy  ; 
inland  the  surface  is  much  of  it  nearly  fiat,  and  nowhere 
exceeds  150  feet.  Loch  Eye  (If  mile  x  4i  furl.  ;  51 
feet),  on  the  Tain  border,  is  almost  the  only  lake  that 
has  not  been  drained  ;  and  there  are  no  streams  of  any 
consequence.  The  predominant  rock  is  Old  Red  sand- 
stone ;  but  the  small  vein  of  limestone  that  runs  from 
the  North  Sutor  to  Tarbat  Ness,  crops  out  at  Geanies. 
The  soil  is  largely  a  very  rich  fertile  loam,  and  agri- 
culture is  carried  to  high  perfection,  steam-ploughing 
having  been  introduced  in  1875,  whilst  from  a  little 
knoll  near  Cadboll  no  fewer  than  eighteen  steam-stalks 
may  be  counted.  Cattle-feeding,  too,  is  carried  on, 
especially  on  the  farms  of  the  Cadboll  property,  belong- 
ing to  Macleod  of  Invergordon.  Geanies  estate  under- 
went great  improvement  from  1840  under  the  care  of 
that  eminent  agriculturist,  Kenneth  Murray,  Esq. 
(1826-76),  who  succeeded  his  brother  in  1867,  and  who 
extended  the  arable  area  from  2016  to  4000  acres,  the 
new  land  being  partlj'  reclaimed  from  bog  and  moss, 
partly  from  moor,  and  partly  from  lochs.  Geanies 
Hou-se,  4  miles  ENE  of  Hill  of  Fearn,  commands  a 
glorious  view  over  the  Moray  Firth,  and  is  now  the  seat 
of  his  son,  WiUiam  Hugh  Eric  Murray,  Esq.  (b.  1858), 
who  holds  5303  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £4401 
per  annum  (only  £2160  in  1843).  Other  mansions  are 
AUan  House  and  Rhynie  House,  standing  IJ  mile  SW 
and  1|  NE  of  Hill  of  Fearn.  The  Prjemonstratensian 
Abbey  of  Fearn  was  founded  in  1221  by  Ferchard 
Macintaggart,  Earl  of  Ross,  in  Edderton  parish,  but 
in  1338  was  transferred  to  Fearn  to  escape  the  ferocity  of 
neighbouring  clans.  Of  its  twenty-one  abbots  the  fif- 
teenth was  the  protomartyr  of  the  Scottish  Reformation, 
Patrick  Hamilton  (1503-28),  who  was  burned  at  St  An- 
DEEWS.  He  was  but  a  youth  when  he  obtained  the  abbacy 
in  1524,  and  it  is  doubtful  whether  he  ever  took  orders  ; 


anyhow  his  connection  with  Fearn  was  little  more  than 
titular.  The  abbey  church  comprised  a  nave,  a  choir  (99 
X  25J  feet),  a  Lady  chapel,  and  two  transeptal  chapels — 
First  Pointed  mainly  in  style,  with  later  insertions  and 
additions,  the  whole  having  been  completed  by  Abbot 
James  Cairncross  in  1545.  It  served  as  the  parish 
church  from  the  Dissolution  till  1742,  when  on  a  Sunday 
of  October  the  ponderous  stone  roof  fell  in,  as  graphically 
told  in  Hugh  Miller's  Scenes  and  Legends,  under  the 
title  of  'The  Washing  of  the  Mermaid.'  Forty-four 
persons  were  killed,  and  more  must  have  lost  their  lives, 
but  that  the  stalwart  preacher,  Robertson  of  Gairloch, 
set  his  shoulder  against  the  door,  and  so  propped  up  the 
side  wall.  The  pile  lay  in  ruins  till  1772,  when  it  was 
patched  up  to  serve  anew  as  parish  church  ;  and  though 
lamentably  mutilated,  with  its  E  end  cut  oft'  for  the 
Balnagowan  mausoleum,  it  still  retains  many  features  of 
interest — three  sedilia,  two  piscinas,  a  credence,  three 
monumental  eifigies,  and  some  good  lancet  and  traceried 
windows.  Another  antiquity,  noticed  separately,  is 
Lochslin  Castle.  Five  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual 
value  of  £500  and  upwards,  3  of  between  £100  and  £500, 
and  3  of  less  than  £100.  Fearn  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Tain  and  synod  of  Ross  ;  the  living  is  worth  £332. 
The  parish  or  abbey  church  stands  5  furlongs  SE  of  the 
village,  and  a  Free  church  IJ  mile  E  by  N.  Three 
public  schools,  all  of  recent  erection,  at  Balmuchy,  Hill 
of  Fearn,  and  Hilton,  with  respective  accommodation 
for  80,  120,  and  178  children,  had  (1880)  an  average 
attendance  of  51,  102,  and  160,  and  grants  of  £41,  6s., 
£96,  lis.,  and  £135,  17s.  Valuation  (1882)  £10,467, 
2s.  6d.  Pop.  (1801)  1528,  (1831)  1695,  (1861)  2083, 
(1871)  2135,  (1881)  2135.— OirZ.  Sur.,  sh.  94,  1878. 

Feam,  two  disti-icts  and  a  rivulet  in  Edderton 
parish,  Ross-shire.  The  districts  are  Easter  Fearn  and 
Wester  Fearn  ;  and  the  rivulet  intersects  or  divides 
them  northward  to  the  inner  Dornoch  Firth.  See 
Edderton". 

Feam  or  Fern,  a  parish  in  the  central  part  of  Forfar- 
shire, whose  church  is  beautifully  situated  on  an  iso- 
lated hillock  in  the  midst  of  a  romantic  den,  9  miles 
N  by  E  of  Forfar,  and  7  W  of  Brechin,  under  which 
there  is  a  post  office  of  Fearn.  It  is  bounded  N  by 
Lethnot,  E  by  Menmuir  and  Careston,  S  and  W  by 
Tannadice.  Its  utmost  length,  from  NNW  to  SSE,  is 
5§  miles  ;  its  greatest  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  is  3J  miles  ; 
and  its  area  is  S811f  acres,  of  which  20  are  water.  Clear- 
flowing  NoEAN  Water  winds  4  J  miles  east -south- 
eastward along  all  the  southern  border,  on  its  way  tc 
the  South  Esk  ;  and  Cetjick  Water,  an  affluent  of  the 
North  Esk,  rising  in  the  northern  extremity  of  the 
parish,  runs  5|  miles  south-soutli-eastward,  then  IJ 
mile  eastward,  through  the  interior,  and  passes  off  into 
Menmuir.  In  the  SE  the  surface  sinks  to  less  than 
300  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  to  421  feet  near 
Wellford,  605  near  Noranside,  970  at  Deuchar  HUl, 
1003  at  Greens  of  Shandford,  1009  at  *Mansworn  Rig, 
1682  at  *Benderochie,  1377  at  Craig  of  Trusta,  and  1900 
at  the  *Hill  of  Garbet,  where  asterisks  mark  those  sum- 
mits that  cidminate  on  the  borders  of  the  parish.  The 
rocks  include  clay  slate  and  Old  Red  sandstone,  and  the 
slate  has  been  quarried ;  whilst  the  soil  is  fertile  through  - 
out  the  Strathmore  district  and  in  parts  of  the  central 
valley.  On  a  rocky  and  precipitous  reach  of  Noran  Water 
stand  the  haunted  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Vayne,  or 
ancient  manor-house  of  Fearn,  originally  a  three-story 
pile  of  friable  red  sandstone,  with  a  round  south-wes- 
tern tower.  Falsely  ascribed  to  Cardijial  Bethune,  and 
greatly  enlarged  towards  the  close  of  the  17th  century 
by  Robert,  third  Earl  of  Southesk,  this,  or  a  prede- 
cessor, was  the  seat  of  the  Montealtos  or  Mowats,  who 
held  the  estate  of  Feam  from  the  reign  of  William  the 
Lyon  (1166-1214)  till  some  time  prior  to  1450.  In 
that  year  it  was  in  the  possession  of  the  Earls  of  Craw- 
ford, from  whom  it  passed  about  1594  to  the  Carnegies 
of  SoTJTHESK.  By  them  it  was  sold  in  1766  to  Mr  John 
Mill,  whose  son  built  Noranside.  The  small  estate  of  Deu- 
chars  has  its  interest,  as  having  been  owned  by  Deuchars 
of  that  Ilk  from  the  10th  cenfury  till  1818.     The  '  Kel- 


FECHLET 

jiie's  Footmark '  is  still  to  be  seen  in  a  sandstone  rock 
near  the  castle  of  Vayne,  but  little  or  nothing  remains 
of  a  '  Druidical  circle,'  of  a  circular  prehistoric  dwelling, 
or  of  three  tumuli  on  the  hills,  one  of  which  yielded  a 
number  of  ancient  urns.  Noranside  is  the  chief  man- 
sion, and  tlie  property  is  divided  among  five.  Fearn  is 
in  the  presbytery  of  Brechin  and  synod  of  Angus  and 
]\Ieams  ;  the  living  is  worth  £220.  The  church,  origi- 
nally founded  by  Bishop  Colman  about  666,  and  dedi- 
cated to  St  Aidan,  was  rebuilt  in  1806,  and  contains 
238  sittings  ;  whilst  a  public  school,  with  accommo- 
dation for  60  chilren,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance 
of  43,  and  a  grant  of  £52,  10s.  A''aluation  (1857)  £4155, 
(1882)  £5194,  10s.  9d.  Pop.  (1801)  448,  (1831)  450, 
(1861)  439,  (1871)  348,  (1881)  316.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  57, 
1868.  See  chap.  v.  of  Andrew  Jerviso's  Zand  of  the 
Lindsays  (Edinb.  1853). 

Fechley  or  Fichlie,  a  place  in  Towie  parish,  W 
Aberdeenshire,  IJ  mile  ENE  of  Towie  church.  The 
Peel  of  Fechley,  a  mound  here,  partly  natural  and 
partly  artificial,  measm'es  upwards  of  60  feet  in  height, 
and  from  127  to  200  feet  in  summit  breadth  ;  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  fosse,  from  12  to  41  feet  in  width,  and 
from  8  to  35  feet  in  depth  ;  and  is  crowned  with  vitrified 
remains  of  a  tower. 

Fechtin  Ford,  a  place  on  the  border  of  Muiravonside 
parish,  Stirlingshire,  on  Avon  Water,  1  mile  above 
Manuel  House.  It  is  traditionally  said  to  have  been 
the  scene  of  a  feud  between  the  shepherds  of  the  con- 
fronting banks. 

Federate,  a  ruined  castle  in  New  Deer  parish,  Aber- 
deenshire, 2  miles  N  of  New  Deer  village.  Surrounded 
partly  by  a  fosse,  partly  by  a  morass,  it  was  approach- 
able only  by  a  causeway  and  a  drawbridge  ;  formed  an 
incomplete  square,  with  great  thickness  of  wall,  and 
with  the  corners  rounded  off ;  and,  dating  from  some 
period  unknown  to  either  record  or  tradition,  is  said  to 
have  been  one  of  the  last  strongholds  of  the  Jacobite 
forces  after  the  battle  of  Killiecrankie. 

Fender,  a  burn  in  Blair  Atliole  parish,  Perthshire, 
rising  on  the  SW  slope  of  Benglo  at  an  altitude  of  3050 
feet  above  sea-level,  and  running  6§  miles  south-west- 
ward along  an  alpine  glen,  till,  after  a  total  descent  of 
2400  feet,  it  falls  into  the  river  Tilt,  1  mile  N  by  E  of 
Blair  Athole  village.  It  makes  three  picturesc^ue  falls, 
the  first  about  a  mUe  from  its  mouth,  the  third  at  its 
influx  to  the  Tilt  ;  approaches  the  last  fall  through  a 
narrow  recess  ;  and  in  a  boiling  and  eddying  series  of 
five  descents,  to  the  aggregate  depth  of  30  feet,  thimders 
into  the  Tilt  at  a  point  where  the  latter  flows  in  dark 
gloom  between  two  vertical  cliffs  of  limestone  rocks. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  55,  1869. 

Fendoch,  an  ancient  camp  in  Monzie  parish,  Perth- 
shire, on  the  high  ground  at  the  lower  end  of  the  Sma' 
Glen  or  deep  narrow  defile  of  Gleualmoud,  9  furlongs 
W  by  N  of  BucHANTY,  and  3  miles  NE  of  Monzie 
church.  Overlooked  by  a  native  strength  upon  Dira- 
MOEE,  it  is  traditionally  called  the  Roman  Camp,  and 
may  be  truly  regarded  as  the  work  of  the  Eoman 
legions  under  Agricola  or  one  of  his  successors.  It 
measm-es  180  paces  in  length  by  80  in  breadth,  and 
is  alleged  to  have  had  accommodation  for  12,000  men  ; 
it  was  defended  on  two  sides  by  water,  on  the  other  side 
by  morass  and  precipice  ;  and  it  continued  till  about 
the  beginning  of  the  present  century  to  retain  consider- 
able portions  of  both  rampart  and  fosse,  but  has  subse- 
quently been  greatly  levelled  by  tillage  and  road-making 
operations.  A  moor  immediately  E  of  it  was,  till  a 
recent  period,  dotted  with  cairns  over  an  extent  of 
several  acres, — several  of  the  cah'ns  measuring  from  10 
to  14  paces  in  diameter  ;  and  it  is  thought,  from  the 
number  and  size  of  these  cairns,  and  from  human  re- 
mains having  been  found  beneath  them,  to  have  been 
the  scene  of  some  great  ancient  battle. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
47,  1869. 

Fenella,  several  localities  in  the  SW  and  S  of  Kincar- 
dineshire. Strathfenella  Hill,  in  the  western  vicinity 
of  Fordoun  vUlage,  is  a  crescent-shaped  isolated  ridge 
3  miles  long,  and  1358  feet  high.     Fenella  Strath,  to 


FENWICK 

the  N  of  the  hill,  is  a  pleasant  vale  traversed  by  Luther 
Water.  Fenella  Castle,  1  mile  W  of  Fettercairn  village, 
is  the  vestige  of  an  ancient  structure,  situated  on  an 
eminence,  enclosed  by  an  inner  and  an  outer  wall,  and 
surrounded  on  three  sides  by  a  morass.  Fenella  Den, 
in  St  Cyrus  parish,  is  traversed  by  a  burn  running  to 
the  North  Esk  river,  making  a  cascade  of  65  feet  in  fall, 
and  crossed  by  two  handsome  bridges,  one  of  them 
120  feet  high.  All  these  take  their  name  from  Fenella, 
daughter  of  the  Mormaer  of  Angus,  and  wife  of  the 
Mormacr  of  the  Mearus,  who  in  994  is  said  to  have  slain 
Kin^  Kenneth  III.  at  Fenella  Castle,  to  revenge  the 
death  of  her  son.  'Not  only  Hector  Boece,'  says  Dr 
Hill  Burton,  'but  the  older  and  graver  chroniclers, 
Fordun  and  Wyntoun,  bring  out  this  aifair  in  a  highly 
theatrical  shape.  We  are  to  suppose  that  the  victim 
has  been  lured  in  among  the  avenger's  toils.  He  was 
led  into  a  tower  of  the  castle  "  quhilk  was  theiket  with 
copper,  and  hewn  with  mani  subtle  mouldry  of  flowers 
and  imageries,  the  work  so  curious  that  it  exceeded  all 
the  stuft'  thereof."  So  says  the  translator  of  Boece.  In 
the  midst  of  the  tower  stood  a  brazen  statue  of  the  king 
himself,  holding  in  his  hand  a  golden  apple  studded 
with  gems.  "  That  image,"  said  the  Lady  Fenella,  "  is 
set  up  in  honour  of  thee,  to  show  the  world  how  much 
I  honour  my  king.  The  precious  apple  is  intended  for 
a  gift  for  the  king,  who  will  honour  his  poor  subject  by 
taking  it  from  the  hand  of  the  image."  The  touching 
of  the  apple  set  agoing  certain  machinery  which  dis- 
charged a  hurdle  of  arrows  into  the  king's  body.  The 
trick  is  copied  from  some  of  those  attributed  to  the 
Vehmic  tribunals.  The  picturesque  district  between 
Fettercairn  and  the  sea  is  alive  with  traditions  of 
Fenella  and  her  witcheries'  (Hist.  Scotl,  i.  339,  ed. 
1876). 

Fenton  Bams.     See  Dieleton. 

Fenwick,  a  village  and  a  parish  in  Cnnninghame  dis- 
trict, Ayrshire.  IThe  village  stands  430  feet''above  sea- 
level  on  the  right  bank  of  Fenwick  Water,  4|  miles 
NNE  of  Kilmarnock,  under  which  it  has  a  post  office 
with  money  order  and  savings'  bank  departments.  Pop. 
(1871)  469,  (1881)  366. 

The  parish  is  bounded  NE  by  Eaglesham  in  Renfrew- 
shire, E  and  SE  by  Loudoun,  S  by  Kilmarnock,  SW  by 
Kilmaurs  and  Dreghorn,  W  by  Stewarton,  and  NW  by 
Stewarton  and  by  Mearns  in  Renfrewshire.  Its  utmost 
length,  from  E  to  W,  is  8  miles  ;  its  breadth,  from  N 
to  S,  varies  between  2  and  5J  miles  ;  and  its  area  is 
18,161^  acres,  of  which  57  are  water,  (jrawfurdland  and 
Fenwick  Waters,  gathering  their  head-streams  from 
Eaglesham,  run  west-south-westward  and  south-west- 
ward across  the  parish,  and,  passing  into  Kilmarnock, 
there  unite  to  form  Kilmarnock  Water  ;  whilst  Loch 
Goix  or  Blackwoodhill  Dam  (7x3  fmd. )  just  touches 
the  north-eastern  boundar}'.  The  surface  sinks,  below 
Dalmusternock,  in  the  furthest  S,  to  340  feet  above  sea- 
level,  and  rises  thence  east-north-eastward  to  714  feet 
at  Airtnock,  836  at  Greenhill,  807  at  Grins  Hills,  and 
932  near  the  eastern  border;  north-north-eastward  or 
northward  to  7S5  at  Dicks  Law,  914  near  Loch  Goin, 
556  at  East  Pokelly,  754  at  Greelaw,  and  876  at  Drumboy 
Hill.  Thus,  though,  as  seen  from  the  hills  of  Craigie 
in  Kyle,  Fenwick  looks  all  a  plain,  it  really  attains  no 
inconsiderable  altitude,  and  from  many  a  point  com- 
mands far-reaching  views  of  Kyle  anil  the  Firth  of 
Clyde,  away  to  the  heights  of  Carrick  and  the  Arran 
and  Argyllshire  mountains.  Originally,  for  the  most 
part,  fen  or  bog,  the  land,  in  spite  of  a  general  scarcity 
of  trees,  now  wears  a  verdant,  cultivated  aspect,  being 
chiefly  distributed  into  meadow  and  natural  pasture. 
Fossiliferous  limestone  is  plentiful ;  in  the  W  are  a  free- 
stone quarry,  and  a  thin  seam  of  coal  ;  and  seams  of 
ironstone,  with  coal  and  limestone,  are  on  the  Eowallan 
estate.  'This  estate  was  held  from  the  13th  till  the  be- 
ginning of  the  ISth  century  by  the  Mures  of  Eowallan, 
of  whom  a  curious  Historie,  published  at  Glasgow  in 
1825,  was  written  by  Sir  William  Mure  (1594-1657),  '  a 
man ' — we  have  it  on  his  ipse  dixit — '  that  was  pious 
and  learned,  had  an  excellent  vein  in  poesie,  and  much 

13 


FEEDTTN 

delj'ted  in  bnilding  and  planting.'  His  son  and 
grandson  both  were  zealous  Covenanters  ;  and  during 
the  former's  time  the  celebrated  William  Guthrie,  who 
was  minister  of  Fenwick  from  1644,  is  said  to  have  held 
conventicles  in  the  house  of  Rowallan  after  his  ejection 
(1664).  Fitly  enough,  the  sufferings  of  the  martyrs 
and  confessors  of  the  Covenant  "were  chronicled  in  the 
Scots  Worthies  of  a  native  of  Fenwick,  John  Howie 
of  Lochgoin  (1735-91).  He  was  descended  from  a 
"Waldensian  refugee  who  had  settled  here  so  long  ago  as 
1178  ;  and  Lochgoin,  in  the  days  of  his  great-grand- 
father, had  twelve  times  been  pillaged  by  the  persecutor. 
In  his  own  daj'  that  ancient  and  sequestered  dwelling 
became  a  kind  of  covenanting  reliquary,  wherein  were 
enshrined  the  Bible  and  sword  of  Paten,  the  standard 
of  Fenwick  parish,  the  drum  that  was  sounded  at 
Drumclog,  and  so  forth.  To  revert  to  Rowallan,  it 
passed,  through  an  heiress,  to  the  fifth  Earl  of  LouDOtTff. 
Three  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and 
upwards,  9  of  between  £100  and  £500,  3  of  from  £50  to 
£100,  and  13  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Disjoined  from 
Kilmarnock  in  1642,  Fenwick  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Irvine  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayi- ;  the  living  is 
worth  £200.  The  parish  church,  at  the  village,  was 
built  in  1643,  and  contains  850  sittings.  It  retains  its 
original  black  oak  pulpit,  with  a  half-hour  sand-glass  ; 
and  the  jougs  .still  hang  from  the  S  gable.  There  are 
also  Free  and  U.P.  churches;  and  two  public  schools,  Fen- 
wick and  Hairshaw,  with  respective  accommodation  for 
120  and  65  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance 
of  92  and  39,  and  grants  of  £75,  19s.  and  £31,  12s. 
Valuation  (1860)  £11,637,  (1882)  £15,635,  10s.  Pop. 
(1801)  1280,  (1831)  2018,  (1861)  1532,  (1871)  1318, 
(1881)  1152.— OrfZ.  Sur.,  sh.  22,  1865. 

Ferdun,  a  streamlet  of  Fordoun  parish,  Kincardine- 
shire. Formed  by  two  burns  that  descend  from  the 
frontier  Grampians,  and  unite  at  Olattering-Briggs,  it 
runs  5f  miles  south-south-eastward,  past  the  W  end  of 
Strathfenella  HUl,  to  a  confluence  with  Luther  Water, 
1|  mile  W  of  Laurencekirk.— OrA  Sur.,  sh.  66,  1871. 

Fereneze  or  Femeze,  a  range  of  hills  on  the  mutual 
border  of  Abbey  and  Neilston  parishes,  Renfrewshire, 
culminating,  IJ  mile  W  by  S  of  Barrhead,  at  725  feet 
above  sea-level. 

Fergus,  a  lake  (3x1  furl.)  on  the  mutual  border  of 
A}T  and  Coylton  parishes,  Ayrshire,  4^  miles  SE  of  Ayr 
town.  It  has  an  islet  in  its  centre,  contains  pike,  and 
sends  off  a  rivulet  1  mile  southward  through  Loch 
Snipe  to  Loch  Martnaham. — Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  14,  1863. 

Fergushill,  a  collier  village  in  Kilwinning  parish, 
Ayrshire,  If  mile  E  of  Kilwinning  town.  Founded 
about  the  year  1835,  it  has  a  public  school  for  the 
children  of  the  colliers  and  a  mission  station  of  the 
Chm-ch  of  Scotland.  Pop.  (1861)  279,  (1871)  531, 
(1881)  537. 

Ferguslie,  a  western  suburb  of  Paisley,  in  Renfrew- 
shu'e.  It  lies  within  Paisley  parliamentary  burgh,  and 
was  built  on  an  estate  which  belonged  for  some  time  to 
the  monks  of  Paisley,  but  was  afterwards  divided.  An 
old  castle  stood  on  the  estate,  and  has  left  some  remains  ; 
and  a  modern  mansion,  called  Ferguslie  House,  is  now 
on  it.     See  Paisley. 

Ferguston,  a  farm,  near  Bearsden  station,  in  New 
Kilpatrick  parish,  Dumbartonshire,  retaining,  on  the 
face  of  a  hill,  a  reach  of  the  fosse  of  Antoninus'  Wall. 

Ferintosh,  a  detached  section  of  Nairnshire,  at  the 
head  of  Cromarty  Firth,  surrounded  by  Ross-shire, 
and  lying  about  2|  mUes  SE  of  Dingwall.  It  forms  the 
central  district  of  the  united  parish  of  Urquhart  and 
Logie-Wester ;  it  comprises  part  of  the  Mullljuie,  and 
part  of  the  strath  at  that  ridge's  south-western  base  ;  it 
is  bounded,  along  the  W,  for  2J-  miles,  by  the  river 
Conan  and  the  upper  part  of  Cromarty  Firth  ;  and  it 
comprises  5973  acres  of  land,  partly  moor,  partly 
pasture,  but  chiefly  arable.  The  barony  of  Ferintosh 
was  purchased  about  1670  by  the  Forbeses  of  Cijlloden, 
who  here  have  a  mansion,  Ryefield  Lodge ;  and  a 
privilege  of  distilling  whisky  on  it,  from  grain  of  its 
own  growth    free   of  duty,   was  granted   in   1689  to 


FERNIEHERST  CASTLE 

Duncan  Forbes,  father  of  President  Forbes,  but  was 
withdrawn  in  1785,  being  compensated  by  a  grant  of 
£20,000.  The  great  improvements  carried  out  on  the 
estate  since  1847  in  the  way  of  reclaiming,  draining, 
fencing,  building,  etc.,  are  described  in  Trans.  Bighl. 
anclAg.  Soc,  1877,  pp.  113-116. 

Ferintosh,  Newton  of,  a  hamlet  in  Ferintosh  district, 
Nairnshire,  If  mile  ESE  of  Conan- Bridge.  It  has  a 
post  office  under  Dingwall. 

Fern,  Forfarshire.     See  Feaen. 

Femell.    See  Faenell. 

Femeze.     See  Fereneze. 

Femie,  an  estate  in  Monimail  parish,  Fife,  4  miles  W 
of  Cupar  and  3|  NNE  of  Ladybank.  It  appears  to  have 
been  part  of  the  original  demesne  of  the  Earls  of  Fife  ; 
and  it  retains  a  baronial  fortalice  of  great  antiquity, 
once  a  place  of  considerable  strength,  surrounded  by 
marshy  gi'ound.  Its  owner,  Francis  Walter  Balfour, 
Esq.  (b.  1831  ;  sue.  1854),  holds  1725  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £3224  per  annum. 

Femie,  Easter,  a  hamlet  in  Monimail  parish,  Fife, 
2|  miles  W  of  Cupar. 

Femiegair,  a  village,  with  a  station  in  Hamilton 
parish,  Lanarkshire,  on  the  Lesmahagow  railway,  at 
the  junction  of  the  eastward  line  from  Hamilton,  2;^ 
miles  NNW  of  LarkhaU.     Pop.  (1871)  395,  (1881)  551. 

Femieherst  Castle,  a  Border  stronghold  in  Jedburgh 
parish,  Roxbiu-ghshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  Jed  Water, 
2J  miles  S  by  E  of  Jedburgh  town.  It  was  the  ancient 
seat  of  the  Kerrs  of  the  Lothian  line,  as  Cessfoed  was 
that  of  the  Roxburghe  Kers — offshoots  both  of  the  same 
Anglo-Norman  stock,  but  wrangling  ever  as  to  seniority. 
Ralph  Kerr  about  1350  settled  in  Teviotdale,  and  his 
seventh  descendant  is  designated  of  Fernieherst  in  the 
parliament  records  of  1476.  To  this  date,  then,  or 
somewhat  earlier,  belonged  the  original  castle,  where 
Sir  Andrew  or  '  Dand '  Kerr  was  taken  prisoner  by  the 
English  under  Lord  Dacre,  after  a  valiant  defence, 
24  Sept.  1523.  With  the  aid  of  D'Esse's  French  auxili- 
aries, his  son.  Sir  John,  retook  the  castle  in  1549  ;  and 
his  son,  Sir  Thomas,  on  22  Jan.  1570,  the  day  after 
Moray's  murder  at  Linlithgow,  swept  over  the  Border 
with  fire  and  sword,  hoping  to  kindle  a  war  that  might 
lead  to  Queen  Mary's  release.  For  this,  in  the  follow- 
ing April,  the  Earl  of  Sussex  demolished  Fernieherst, 
which  was  not  rebuilt  till  1598.  Sir  Thomas's  fourth 
son  was  Robert  Carr,  Earl  of  Somerset,  Sir  Thomas 
Overhury's  murderer ;  whilst  the  eldest  son,  Andrew, 
was  also  ennobled  as  Lord  Jedburgh  in  1622.  The 
third  Lord  Jedburgh,  Ralph  Kerr's  twelfth  descendant, 
died  without  issue  in  1692,  when  the  representation  of 
the  family  in  the  male  line  devolved  on  his  second 
cousin  once  removed,  Robert,  fourth  Earl  of  Lothian, 
who  in  1701  was  created  Marquis  of  Lothian.  (See 
Newbattle.  )  Not  the  least  interesting  of  Fernieherst's 
many  memories  is  the  visit  paid  to  it  on  21  Sept.  1803 
by  Scott  and  Wordsworth,  whose  sister  writes :  '  Walked 
up  to  Fernieherst,  an  old  hall  in  a  secluded  situation, 
now  inhabited  by  farmers ;  the  neighbouring  ground 
had  the  wildness  of  a  forest,  being  ii-regularly  scattered 
over  with  fine  old  trees.  The  wind  was  tossing  their 
branches,  and  sunshine  dancing  among  the  leaves,  and 
I  happened  to  exclaim,  "What  a  life  there  is  in  trees  !  " 
on  which  Mr  Scott  observed  that  the  words  reminded 
him  of  a  young  lady  who  had  been  born  and  educated 
on  an  island  of  the  Orcades,  and  came  to  spend  a  sum- 
mer at  Kelso  and  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Edinburgh. 
She  iised  to  say  that  in  the  new  world  into  which  she 
was  come  nothing  had  disappointed  her  so  much  as 
trees  and  woods ;  she  complained  that  they  were  life- 
less, silent,  and,  compared  with  the  grandeur  of  the 
ever-changing  ocean,  even  insipid.  At  first  I  was  sur- 
prised, but  the  next  moment  I  felt  that  the  impression 
was  natural.  >  .  .  The  valley  of  the  Jed  is  very 
solitary  immediately  under  Fernieherst ;  we  walked 
down  to  the  river,  wading  almost  up  to  the  knees  in 
fern,  which  in  many  parts  overspread  the  forest  ground. 
It  made  me  think  of  our  walks  at  Allfoxden,  and  of 
oitr  own  park — though  at  Fernieherst  is  no  park  at 


FEENILEE 

present — and  the  slim  fa^vns  that  we  used  to  startle 
from  tlioir  couching-places  among  the  fern  at  the  top  of 
the  hill.  Wo  were  accompanied  on  our  walk  hy  a 
yonng  man  from  the  Braes  of  Yarrow,  William  Laidlaw, 
an  acquaintance  of  Mr  Scott's,  who,  having  been  much 
delighted  with  some  of  William's  poems  which  he  had 
chanced  to  see  in  a  newspaper,  had  wished  to  be  intro- 
duced to  him  ;  he  lived  in  the  most  retired  part  of  the 
dale  of  Yarrow,  where  he  had  a  farm  ;  he  was  fond  of 
reading  and  well  informed,  but  at  first  meeting  as  shy 
as  any  of  our  Grasmere  lads,  and  not  less  rustic  in  his 
appearance.'  See  pp.  265-267  of  Dorothy  Wordsworth's 
Towi-  in  Scotland  (ed.  by  Princ.  Shairp,  1874). — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  17,  1861 

Femielea.    See  Fernilee. 

Femilee,  a  hamlet  on  the  S  border  of  Galashiels  parish, 
Selkirkshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  Tweed,  near 
Yair  Bridge,  SJ  miles  NNW  of  Selkirk.  Fernilee 
mansion  here,  now  a  decayed  edifice,  was  the  seat  of  the 
Kutherfords,  and  in  one  of  its  turrets  the  beautiful  Miss 
Alison  Rutherford  (1712-94),  who  in  1731  became  the 
wife  of  Patrick  Cockburn,  advocate,  wrote  her  version 
('I've  seen  the  smiling,'  etc.)  of  the  Flowers  of  tlie 
Forest. 

Fern-Tower,  a  mansion  in  Crieff  parish,  Perthshire, 
on  the  SE  slope  of  the  pine-clad  Knock  (911  feet), 
2  miles  NNE  of  Crieff  town.  In  1810  Sir  David  Baird 
(1757-1829),  the  hero  of  Seringapatam,  married  Miss 
Ann  Campbell  Preston  of  Valleyfield  and  Fern-Tower  ; 
and  it  was  at  Fern-Tower  that  he  spent  his  last  years 
and  died.  His  widow  survived  him  till  1847  ;  and 
now  the  estate  belongs  to  Lord  Abercromby,  who  holds 
in  Stirlingshire  10,407  acres,  valued  at  £6007  per  annum. 
See  Tom-a-Chastel,  Aiethrey,  and  Tullibody. 

Ferrintosh.     See  Ferintosh. 

Ferry.     See  QuEENiiFERRY. 

Ferry  bank,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Cnpar  parish, 
Fife,  1  mile  SW  of  the  town. 

Ferryden,  a  fishing  village  in  Craig  parish,  Forfarshire, 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  South  Esk  river,  1  mile  above 
its  mouth,  directly  opposite  Montrose,  but  1^  mile 
therefrom  hy  road.  Till  the  river  was  bridged,  it  was 
the  ferry-station  on  the  road  from  Aberdeen,  by  way  of 
Montrose,  to  the  S  of  Scotland.  It  conducts  a  fishery 
so  extensive  as  to  employ  about  200  men  in  boats,  to 
send  off'  loads  of  fish  to  the  markets  of  Montrose,  Brechin, 
Forfar,  Dundee,  Perth,  and  other  towns,  and  to  supply 
immense  quantities  to  fish-curers  in  Montrose  for  the 
markets  of  the  South.  It  contains  a  post  office  under 
Montrose,  the  Free  church  of  Craig,  and  two  public 
schools.  Pop.  (1861)  1113,  (1871)  1395,  (1881)  1520.— 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  57,  1868. 

Ferry,  East  and  West.     See  Broughty  Ferry. 

Ferryfield,  a  print-work  in  BonhUl  parish,  Dum- 
bartonshire, on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  Leven,  in 
the  vicinity  of  Bonhill  town. 

FerryhiU.     See  Aberdeen-,  p.  9. 

Ferry  Hill,  a  peninsula  in  Inverkeithing  parish,  Fife, 
bearing  on  its  point  the  village  of  North  Queensferry. 
It  is  connected  with  the  mainland  by  an  isthmus  4i 
furlongs  broad,  and  rises  to  an  altitude  of  200  feet  above 
sea-level. 

Ferry,  Little,  a  ferry  (1  furlong  broad)  on  the  mutual 
boundary  of  Dornoch  and  Golspie  parishes,  Sutherland, 
across  the  neck  of  water  between  Loch  Fleet  and  the  sea, 
4J  miles  N  by  E  of  Dornoch  town.  An  action  was 
fought  on  the  N  side  of  it,  in  1746,  between  the 
Jacobites  and  the  militia. 

Ferry,  Meikle,  a  ferry  (5^  furlongs  broad)  on  the 
mutual  boundary  of  Ross-shire  and  Sutherland,  across 
a  contracted  part  of  the  Dornoch  Firth,  4  miles  NW  of 
Tain,  and  4|  WSW  of  Dornoch.  It  formerly  was  used 
as  the  chief  thoroughfare  between  the  eastern  parts  of 
the  two  counties  ;  but  it  suffers  much  obstruction  from 
winds  and  currents  ;  and  the  road  round  by  Bonar 
Bridge,  though  exceedingly  circuitous,  has  long  been 
generally  preferred. 

Ferry-Port-on-Craig,  a  town  and  a  parish  in  the  ex- 
treme  NE  of  Fife.     Standing  on  the  southern  side  of 


FERRY-PORT-ON-CRAIG 

the  entrance  of  the  Firth  of  Tay,  the  town  by  water  is 
7  furlongs  S  of  Broughty  Ferry  and  3J  miles  E  by  S  of 
Dundee,  whilst  by  rail  it  is  llj  miles  NNE  of  Cupar 
and  45J  NNE  of  Edinburgh.  It  sprang  into  being  and 
took  its  name  from  an  ancient  ferry,  whose  port  was 
dominated  by  a  rock  or  craig  ;  and  it  acquired  a  great 
and  sudden  increase  of  prosperity,  from  the  purchase  in 
Sept.  1842  of  the  right  of  ferry  by  the  Edinburgh  and 
Northern  (now  the  North  British)  Company,  by  whom 
the  ferry  has  since  been  worked  in  connection  with  the 
railway.  Thenceforth  it  came  to  be  occasionally  known 
as  Tayport,  a  name  that  has  now  almost  superseded  its 
older  designation  ;  and  it  has,  ever  since  the  opening  of 
the  railway,  been  a  place  of  important  thoroughfare. 
Tayport,  besides,  is  a  favourite  bathing  resort,  ■nlth 
many  new  villas  and  cottages  commanding  delightful 
views  of  the  opposite  coast ;  and  employment  is  fur- 
nished to  its  toivnspeople  by  a  flax  and  jute  spinning 
mill,  2  linen  factories,  2  sawmills,  a  timber-yard,  engine 
works,  a  bobbin  factory,  and  a  shipbuilding  yard,  as 
also  by  the  valuable  salmon  fisheries  and  mussel  dredg- 
ing of  the  Tay.  It  has  a  post  office,  with  money  order, 
savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  departments,  a  branch  of 
the  North  of  Scotland  Bank,  7  insurance  agencies,  gas- 
works, 3  inns,  a  new  public  school,  a  Young  Men's 
Christian  Association,  a  masonic  hall,  and  a  temperance 
hall,  which  last,  erected  in  1877,  measures  60  by  34 
feet,  and  has  accommodation  for  500.  The  parish 
church  (1794  ;  repaired  1882)  is  a  neat  edifice,  con- 
taining 850  sittings  ;  and  other  places  of  worship  are 
Free  and  U.  P.  churches.  The  railway  works  include  a 
large  artificial  basin  ;  an  outer  mole  or  breastwork,  con- 
structed with  great  skill  and  at  vast  expense,  to  shelter 
this  basin  from  E  and  N  winds  ;  an  inner  breastwork  or 
landiug-shp,  600  feet  long  and  30  high,  divided  into 
two  inclined  planes  with  rails  along  them,  for  ready 
conveyance  of  the  carriages  to  the  steamer's  deck  at  all 
states  of  the  tide  ;  and  a  quay-wall,  200  feet  long,  at  the 
eastern  end  of  the  basin,  to  facilitate  embarkation  and 
debarkation  in  even  the  most  imfavourable  circumstances 
of  tide  and  weather.  The  harbour  thus  comprises  a 
sheltered  floating  basin,  fully  600  feet  long  and  200  in 
average  breadth,  with  a  depth  of  28  feet  of  water  at  full 
spring  tides,  and  of  not  less  than  8  feet  at  the  lowest 
tides.  Steamers  ply  regularly  in  direct  line  to  Dundee  ; 
so  that  both  the  townspeople  and  railway  passengers 
have  the  option  of  going  either  direct  to  Dundee  or 
circuitously  by  way  of  Broughty  Ferry.  Pop.  of  town 
(1831)  1538,  (1861)  1773,  (18'71)  2498,  (1881)  2630. 

The  parish,  constituted  in  1606,  and  supposed  to  have 
previously  formed  part  of  Leuchars,  is  bounded  N  by 
the  Firth  of  Tay,  E  by  the  German  Ocean,  SE  by 
Leuchars,  and  SW  and  W  by  Forgan.  Its  utmost 
length,  from  WNW  to  ESE,  is  4|  miles  ;  its  utmost 
breadth  is  1§  mile ;  and  its  area  is  4952 J  acres,  of 
which  21774  f^'e  foreshore.  The  coast  to  the  E  of  the 
town  is  flat  and  for  the  most  part  sandy,  including 
nearly  all  this  large  expanse  of  foreshore,  but  westward 
of  the  town  it  is  rocky  and  irregular,  and  inland  the 
surface  rises  rapidly  to  129  feet  at  Spearshill,  and  to  300 
at  Waterloo  Towers  and  Scotscraig  Law.  The  rocks  are 
chiefly  eruptive,  and  include  considerable  quantities  of 
beautiful  spar.  In  part  of  the  parish  the  soil,  though 
light  and  variable,  is  kindly  and  fertile  ;  and  upon 
Scotscraig  Mains  there  are  a  few  fields  of  very  superior 
land,  the  rental  of  the  entire  farm,  which  extends  over 
502  acres,  having  risen  from  £977  in  1864  to  £1210  in 
1876.  Two  lighthouses,  to  E  and  W  of  the  village, 
serve,  with  those  on  the  Forfar  shore  of  the  firth,  to 
guide  the  navigation  of  the  Tay.  An  old  building,  now- 
represented  by  scanty  vestiges,  and  usually  called  the 
Castle,  seems  to  have  been  erected  subsequent  to  the 
invention  of  gunpowder,  and  was  probably  designed  to 
act,  in  concert  with  Broughty  Castle,  for  defence  of  the 
entrance  of  the  firth.  Scotscraig  is  the  chief  mansion, 
and  Maitland  Dougall  is  a  principal  proprietor,  3  others 
holding  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  1 
of  between  £100  and  £500,  6  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and 
28  of  from  £20  to  £50.     This  parish  is  in  the  presbj^ery 

15 


FERRYTOWN-OF-CEEE 

of  St  Andrews  and  synod  of  Fife  ;  the  living  is  worth 
£279.  The  public  school,  with  accommodation  for  676 
children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  348,  and 
a  grant  of  £286,  9s.  6d.  Valuation  (1866)  £5972, 
12s.  9d.,  (1882)  £10,163,  14s.  Sd.  Pop.  (1801)  920, 
(1841)  1714,  (1861)  2013,  (1871)  2674,  (1881)  2818.— 
Ord.  Sur.,  sli.  49,  1865. 

Ferrytown-of-Cree.    See  Creetown. 

Feshie,  a  rapid  stream  of  Alvie  parish,  SE  Inverness- 
shire,  rising  among  the  Grampian  Mountains  at  an 
altitude  of  2750  feet,  and  5J  miles  W  by  N  of  the 
meeting-point  of  Aberdeenshire,  Inverness-shire,  and 
Perthshire.  Thence  it  winds  23  mUes  northward,  mostly 
along  the  Kingussie  border,  till,  nearly  opposite  Kiucraig 
station,  it  falls  into  the  river  Spey,  after  a  total  descent 
of  fully  2000  feet.  Quite  early  in  its  course  the  Feshie 
approaches  within  J  mile  of  Geldie  Burn,  a  rise  of  barely 
50  feet  here  parting  the  basins  of  the  Spey  and  the  Dee. 
It  was  by  this  route,  up  Glen  Geldie  and  down  Glen 
Feshie,  that  the  Queen  and  the  Prince  Consort  rode  from 
Deeside  to  Strathspey  on  4  Sept.  1864.  (See  Alvie.) 
In  the  great  flood  of  Aug.  1829  the  Feshie  did  enormous 
damage,  and  rose  at  the  romantic  old  bridge  of  Inver- 
eshie  to  a  height  of  25  feet  above  its  ordinary  level. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  64,  74,  1874-77.  See  chap.  xii.  of  Sir 
Thomas  Dick  Lauder's  Moray  Floods  (3d  ed.  1873). 

Feshie-Bridge,  a  hamlet  in  Kingussie  parish,  Inver- 
ness-shire, on  the  left  bank  of  the  Feshie,  1 J  mile  above 
its  mouth,  and  2J  miles  SE  of  Kincraig  station.  It  has 
a  post  ofBce  under  Kingussie. 

Fetheray.    See  Fiddkie. 

Fetlar,  an  island  and  a  civil  parish  in  the  N  of  Shet- 
land. The  island  lies  3  miles  E  of  Yell,  4  S  of  Unst, 
and  33  N  by  E  of  Lerwick,  under  which  it  has  a  post 
office.  Its  greatest  length,  from  NW  to  SE,  is  6J  miles  ; 
its  greatest  breadth  is  2|  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  estimated 
at  5500  acres.  The  outline  is  rendered  so  irregular  by 
numerous  headlands  and  sea  inlets  as  to  give  a  large 
extent  of  sea  coast.  The  principal  bays  or  sea  inlets  are 
Tresta,  with  a  sandy  beach  ;  Aith,  with  a  pebbly  beach  ; 
Funzie,  used  as  a  ling  fishing  station ;  Gruting,  with  a 
pebbly  beach  ;  Urie,  with  a  rude  pier  ;  Sand,  of  small 
extent  and  sandy  ;  and  Mowick,  used  for  the  transport- 
ing of  peats  from  an  inland  hill  by  sea  to  the  other  bays 
of  the  island.  The  interior  comprises  several  hills  and 
vales,  but  nowhere  exceeds  521  feet  above  sea-level.  The 
rocks  comprise  gneiss,  syenite,  granite,  cjuartzite,  syen- 
itic  greenstone,  mica  slate,  chlorite  slate,  clay  slate, 
serpentine,  and  diallage  rock.  Bog  iron  ore,  of  a  very 
rich  quality,  occurs  in  peat  moss  ;  chromate  of  iron  is 
found  in  the  serpentine  rock  ;  and  some  veins  of  copper 
ore  have  been  found.  About  1200  acres  are  under 
cultivation,  and  have,  for  the  most  part,  a  tolerably 
fertile  soil  of  sand  and  loam.  Not  a  tree  or  shrub  is 
anywhere  to  be  seen.  Brough  Lodge  is  the  principal 
residence.  Pop.  (1831)  843,  (1S61)  548,  (1871)  517, 
(1881)  431. 

The  parish,  including  also  the  northern  part  of  Yell 
island,  and  bearing  the  name  of  Fetlar  and  North  Yell, 
has  a  total  area  of  26,659  acres.  The  Yell  portion  of  it 
is  much  more  rugged  than  Fetlar,  but  will  be  described 
in  our  article  on  Yell.  The  Earl  of  Zetland  is  chief 
proprietor,  but  2  others  hold  each  an  annual  value  of 
between  £100  and  £500,  4  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  2 
of  from  £20  to  £50.  In  the  presbytery  of  Burravoe  and 
sjTiod  of  Shetland,  Fetlar  forms  one  quoad  sacra  parish 
and  North  Yell  another,  the  former  a  living  worth  £222. 
Its  church,  rebuilt  in  1790,  contains  267  sittings.  There 
is  also  a  Free  church  of  Fetlar  ;  and  3  public  schools — 
Fetlar,  Braeside,  and  Sellafirth — \rith  respective  accom- 
modation for  70,  30,  and  54  children,  had  (1880)  an 
average  attendance  of  43,  43,  and  12,  and  grants  of 
£45,  2s.,  £42,  5s.,  and  £17.  Valuation  (1881)  £1877, 
lis.  3d.  Pop.  ((1793)  1346,  (1831)  1680,  (1861)  1480, 
(1871)  1410,  (1881)  1252. 

Fetterangus,   a  village  in  the  Banffshire  (detached) 

section  of  Old  Deer  parish,  5  furlongs  from  the  right 

bank  of  N  Ugie  AVater,  and  2  miles  NNW  of  Mintlaw, 

under   which  it  has  a  post  office.     Here  is  a  girls' 

16 


FETTERCAIEN 

endowed  school.     Pop.  (1881)  345,  (1871)  362,   (1881) 
364. 

Fettercaim  (10th  century  FotherJcern),  a  village  and 
a  parish  of  SW  Kincardineshire.  A  burgh  of  barony, 
the  village  stands,  220  feet  above  sea-level,  at  the  con- 
fluence of  Crichie  and  Balnakettle  Burns,  lOf  miles 
NNE  of  Brechin,  12  NNW  of  Montrose,  and  4}  WNW 
of  Laurencekirk,  under  which  there  is  a  post  office,  with 
money  order,  savings'  bank,  insurance,  and  telegraph 
departments.  It  has,  besides,  a  branch  of  the  North  of 
Scotland  Bank,  a  national  security  savings'  bank,  3 
insurance  agencies,  an  inn,  gas-works,  a  public  hall,  a 
library,  quoit,  cricket,  and  curling  clubs,  a  farmers' 
club,  a  distillery,  and  cattle  and  hiring  fairs  on  the  days 
before  Whitsunday  and  Martinmas.  At  the  W  end  of 
the  bridge  a  graceful  triumphal  arch  has  been  erected  to 
commemorate  the  royal  visit  of  20  Sept.  1861,  a  visit 
thus  described  in  the  Queen's  Journal :  '  At  a  Cjuarter- 
past  seven  o'clock  we  reached  the  small  quiet  town,  or 
rather  village,  of  Fettercaim,  for  it  was  very  small — not 
a  creature  stirring,  and  we  got  out  at  the  quiet  little 
inn,  "Ramsay  Arms,"  quite  unobserved,  and  went  at 
once  upstairs.  There  was  a  very  nice  drawing-room, 
and,  next  to  it,  a  dining-room,  both  very  clean  and 
tidy — ^then  to  the  left  our  bed-room,  which  was  exces- 
sively small,  but  also  very  clean  and  neat,  and  much 
better  than  at  Grantown.  Alice  had  a  nice  room,  tie 
same  size  as  ours  ;  then  came  a  mere  morsel  of  one  (with 
a  "press-bed"),  in  which  Albert  dressed;  and  then 
came  Lady  ChurchUl's  bedroom  just  beyond.  Louis 
[Prince  Louis  of  Hesse]  and  General  Grey  had  rooms  in 
an  hotel,  called  "The  Temperance  Hotel,"  opposite. 
We  dined  at  eight,  a  very  nice,  clean,  good  dinner. 
Grant  and  Brown  waited.  They  were  rather  nervous, 
but  General  Grey  and  Lady  Churchill  carved,  and  they 
had  only  to  change  the  plates,  which  Brown  soon  got 
into  the  way  of  doing.  A  little  girl  of  the  house  came 
in  to  help — but  Grant  turned  her  round  to  prevent  her 
looking  at  us  !  The  landlord  and  landlady  knew  who 
we  were,  but  no  one  else  except  the  coachman,  and  they 
kept  the  secret  admii'ably.  The  evening  being  bright 
and  moonlight  and  very  still,  we  all  went  out,  and 
walked  through  the  whole  village,  where  not  a  creature 
moved ;  through  the  principal  little  square,  in  the 
middle  of  which  was  a  sort  of  pillar  or  Town  Cross  on 
steps,  and  Louis  read  by  the  light  of  the  moon  a  pro- 
clamation for  the  collections  of  charities  which  was 
stuck  on  it.  We  walked  on  along  a  lane  a  short  way, 
hearing  nothing  whatever — not  a  leaf  moving — but  the 
distant  barking  of  a  dog  !  Suddenly  we  heard  a  drum 
and  fifes  !  We  were  greatly  alarmed,  fearing  we  had 
been  recognised ;  but  Louis  and  General  Grey,  who 
went  back,  saw  nothing  whatever.  Still,  as  we  walked 
slowly  back,  we  heard  the  noise  from  time  to  time,  and 
when  we  reached  the  inn  door  we  stopped,  and  saw  six 
men  march  up  with  fifes  and  a  drum  (not  a  creature 
taking  any  notice  of  them),  go  down  the  street,  and 
back  again.  Grant  and  Brown  were  out,  but  had  no 
idea  what  it  could  be.  Albert  asked  the  little  maid, 
and  the  answer  was,  "It's  just  a  band,"  and  that  it 
walked  about  in  this  way  twice  a  week.  How  odd  ! 
It  went  on  playing  some  time  after  we  got  home.  We 
sat  till  half-past  ten  working,  and  then  retired  to  rest. 
— (Saturday,  Sept.  21. )  Got  to  sleep  after  two  or  three 
o'clock.  The  morning  was  dull  and  close,  and  misty 
with  a  little  rain  ;  hardly  any  one  stirring ;  but  a  few 
people  at  their  work.  A  traveller  had  arrived  at  night, 
and  wanted  to  come  up  into  the  dining-room,  which 
is  the  "commercial  travellers'  room;"  and  they  had 
difficulty  in  telling  him  he  could  not  stop  there.  He 
joined  Grant  and  Brown  at  their  tea,  and  on  his  asking 
"What's  the  matter  here?"  Grant  answered,  "It's  a 
wedding  party  from  Aberdeen."  At  "The  Temperance 
Hotel  "  they  were  very  anxious  to  know  whom  they  had 
got.  All,  except  General  Grey,  breakfasted  a  little 
before  nine.  Brown  acted  as  my  servant,  brushing  my 
skirt  and  boots,  and  taking  any  message,  and  Grant  as 
Albert's  valet.  At  a  quarter  to  ten  we  started  the  same 
way  as  before,  except  that  we  were  in  the  carriage  which 


FETTEECAIEN 

lady  Clnwchill  and  the  General  had  j'esterday.  It  was 
■unfortunately  misty,  we  could  see  no  distance.  The 
people  had  just  discovered  who  we  were,  and  a  few 
cheered  us  as  we  went  along.'  The  cross  referred  to 
iere  ^o  an  octagonal  shaft,  rising  from  a  circular  stepped 
ba?^ment,  and  was  originally  erected  at  the  extinct 
tjwn  of  Kincardine  by  John,  fii-st  Karl  of  Middleton. 
It  bears  his  arms  and  initials,  with  the  Scottish  lion 
and  the  date  1670.  In  the  centre  of  the  village  there  is 
also  a  drinking  fountain,  a  memorial  to  Sir  John  H. 
Stuart  Forbes  (1804-66).  Pop.  of  village  (1841)  280, 
(1861)  339,  (1871)  391,  (1881)  398. 

The  parish  is  bounded  NW  by  Strachan,  NE  and  E 
by  Fordoun,  SE  by  Marykirk,  S  by  Stracathro  in  For- 
farshire, and  W  by  Edzell,  also  in  Forfarshire.  Its 
utmost  length,  from  N  to  S,  is  8|  miles ;  its  breadth, 
from  E  to  W,  varies  between  4J  furlongs  and  4g  miles  ; 
and  its  area  is  13,803J  acres,  of  which  75  are  water.  The 
iNorth  EsK  flows  4|  miles  south-south-eastward  along 
the  Edzell  boundary,  and  for  IJ  furlong  touches  the 
parish  again  at  its  south-eastern  corner ;  1  mile  N  of 
Edzell  village,  it  is  spanned  by  the  romantic  Bridge  of 
Gannochy,  which,  built  in  1732  and  widened  in  1796, 
is  founded  on  two  stupendous  rocks,  and  rises  to  great 
height  above  the  river's  bed.  Black  Burn,  the  Esk's 
immediate  tributary,  drains  the  level  and  low-lying 
southern  interior,  which  forms  a  portion  of  the  Howe  of 
Mearns.  The  Burn  of  Garrol,  rising  on  the  southern 
acclivity  of  Hound  Hillock,  runs  5J  miles  south-east- 
ward and  south-by-eastward,  mainly  along  the  north- 
eastern and  eastern  border,  till,  at  a  point  5  fui'longs 
SE  of  the  village,  it  is  joined  by  the  confluent  Crichie 
■and  Balnakettle  Bm'ns ;  as  Duurie  Burn  the  united 
stream  winds  1§  mile  onward  along  the  eastern  border, 
then  passes  off  into  Marykirk  on  its  way  to  Luther 
Water,  and  so  ultimately  to  the  North  Esk.  In  the 
furthest  SE  the  surface  declines  to  115  feet  above  sea- 
level,  thence  rising  northwards  gently  to  194  feet  near 
Arnhall  and  200  at  Bogmuir,  more  rapidly  to  428  near 
West  Woodtown,  1035  near  Garrol  Wood,  and  1698  at 
heath-clad  Hound  Hillock,  close  to  the  northernmost 
point  of  the  parish.  The  rocks  are  partly  eruptive, 
partly  Devonian,  including  granite,  quartzite,  mica 
slate,  greenstone,  red  sandstone,  limestone,  etc.,  which, 
in  a  section  along  the  North  Esk,  are  seen  in  every 
kind  of  irregular  stratification.  Very  fine  porcelain  clay 
occurs  on  the  banks  of  Balnakettle  Burn  ;  and  at  Balna- 
kettle bog  iron  ore  has  been  found  of  the  latest  forma- 
tion. Rather  more  than  half  of  the  entire  area  is  in 
tillage,  nearly  one-seventh  is  under  wood,  and  the  rest 
is  either  pastoral  or  waste.  The  soil  is  deep,  strong, 
rich  loam  around  the  village,  but  in  other  parts  of  the 
parish  not  a  little  of  the  land  consists  of  moderate  black 
loam  or  stifSsh  clay.  Great  improvements,  described  in 
Trans.  Eighl.  and  Ag.  Soc,  (1881,  pp.  113-115),  have 
been  carried  out  within  the  last  thirty  years  on  the 
lands  of  Fasque,  The  Burn,  Balmain,  and  Fettercairn, 
the  first  two  of  which  estates  have  been  noticed  sepa- 
rately. That  of  Fettercairn  or  Middleton  was  held  for 
upwards  of  five  centuries  by  the  Middleton  family,  of 
whom  General  Middleton  (1610-73)  was  at  the  Restora- 
tion created  Earl  of  Middleton  and  Lord  Clermont  and 
Fettercairn.  Forfeited  by  his  son,  the  second  and  last 
earl,  the  estate  was  purchased  in  1777  by  Sir  John 
Wishart  Belsches  or  Stuart,  Bart.,  and  through  his 
daughter's  marriage  (1797)  passed  to  Sir  William  Forbes, 
Bart,  of  PiTSLiGO.  His  grand-daughter,  Harriet  Willia- 
mina  (d.  1869),  in  1858  married  Charles  Trefusis,  twen- 
tieth Baron  Clinton  of  Mastock  since  1299  (b.  1834  ; 
sue.  1866)  ;  and  their  son,  Charles  John  Robert  (b. 
1863),  now  holds  in  Kincardineshire  5007  acres, 
valued  at  £4057  per  annum.  Fettercairn  House,  a 
little  N  by  E  of  the  village,  was  built  in  1666  by  the 
first  Earl  of  Middleton,  and  enlarged  in  1829  by  Sir 
John  Stuart-Forbes,  and  again  by  Lord  Clinton  in  1877. 
Balbegno  and  Fenella  Castle,  the  chief  antiquities,  have 
separate  articles.  Fettercairn  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Fordoun  and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns  ;  the  living  is 
worth  £356.     The  parish  church,  at  the  village,  was 


FETTERESSO 

built  in  1804,  and  contains  800  sittings.  There  are  also 
a  Free  church  and  Fasque  Episcopal  church,  St  Andrew's ; 
and  three  schools — Fettercairn  public.  Inch  public,  and 
Fasque — with  respective  accommodation  for  180,  120, 
and  78  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of 
114,  49,  and  66,  and  grants  of  £89,  18s.,  £35, 
19s.,  and  £54,  2s.  Valuation  (1856)  £9412,  (1882) 
£12,057,  6s.  Pop.  (1801)  1794,  (1841)  1791,  (1861) 
1700,  (1871)  1539,  (1881)  1503.— Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  66,  67, 
1871-68. 

Fetteresso  (10th  century  Fodresach),  a  hamlet  and  a 
coast  parish  of  Kincardineshire.  The  hamlet  lies  on  the 
left  bank  of  Carron  Water,  IJ  mile  W  of  Stonehaven. 
The  parish  contains  also  all  the  New  Town  or  northern 
part  of  Stonehaven,  the  post  office  village  of  Muohalls, 
the  fishing- villages  of  Cowie,  Stranathro,  and  Skateraw, 
and  the  stations  of  Stonehaven,  Muchalls,  and  Newton- 
hill.  It  is  bounded  N  by  Maryculter  and  Banchory- 
Devenick,  E  by  the  German  Ocean,  S  by  Dunnottar,  W 
by  Glenbervie,  and  NW  by  Dm-ris.  Its  utmost  length, 
from  E  to  W  is  7^  miles ;  its  breadth,  from  N  to  S, 
varies  between  5  and  7 J  miles ;  and  its  area  is  27,529 
acres,  of  which  223^  are  foreshore,  and  61  water. 
Carron  Water  rims  6|  miles  eastward,  mainly  along 
the  southern  boundary  to  the  sea  at  Stonehaven, 
uniting  just  above  its  mouth  with  Cowie  Water,  which 
here  winds  7j  miles  east-south-eastward,  for  the  first 
^  mile  along  the  Glenbervie  border,  and  then  through 
the  southern  interior.  The  central  and  northern 
districts  are  drained  by  Muchalls  Burn  and  the  Burn  of 
Elsick,  running  to  the  sea,  and  by  Crynoch  Burn,  flow- 
ing east-north-eastward  and  northward,  past  Netherley 
House,  till  it  passes  into  Maryculter  on  its  way  to  the 
river  Dee.  The  coast  is  bold  and  rocky,  niched  and 
van  dyked  by  a  score  of  small  bays  and  headlands  (the 
chief  of  these  Garron  Point),  and  rising  rapidly  to  100 
feet  and  more  above  sea-level.  Inland  the  surface  is 
irregular,  though  nowhere  mountainous,  the  chief  eleva- 
tions to  the  S  of  Cowie  Water  being  Cheyne  Hill  (552 
feet),  the  HUl  of  Swanley  (700),  Elf  Hill  (715),  and  the 
Hill  of  Trusta  (1051),  whilst  to  the  N  of  it  rise  Kemp- 
stone  Hill  (432),  White  Hill  (495),  Curlethney  Hill 
(806),  Meikle  Carewe  Hill  (872),  the  Hill  of  Pitspunkie 
(666),  Craigneil  (886),  and,  on  the  northern  border, 
Berry  Too  (558).  The  landscape  presents  a  striking 
contrast  of  picturesqueness  and  the  most  utter  bleak- 
ness. The  vales  of  the  Carron  and  the  Come,  and 
spots  on  the  seaboard,  are  very  lovely ;  but  other  dis- 
tricts are  comparatively  tame.  Gneiss  and  Old  Red 
sandstone  are  the  prevailing  rocks ;  but  granite,  por- 
phyry, and  chloride  slate  occur  as  well.  Near  Stone- 
haven the  soil  is  mostly  sharp  friable  loam,  but  in  the 
more  inland  and  higher  parts  it  is  an  inferior  clayey  or 
moorish  loam.  Various  improvements  in  the  way  of 
draining  and  building  have  been  carried  out  since  1855, 
and  considerable  reclamations  effected  within  this 
century.  The  latest,  about  1860,  was  the  dividing  of 
the  commonty  of  Cowie,  2000  acres  or  thereby,  among 
the  proprietors  interested,  who  then  let  it  out  in  small 
lots  to  tenants  on  improving  leases.  About  2000  acres 
are  imder  wood.  Ancient  Caledonian  remains  were 
formerly  more  numerous  than  now  ;  but  Eaedyke  Camp, 
Caledonian,  not  Roman,  one  of  the  many  sites  of  the 
Battle  of  the  Grampians,  is  still  almost  entire,  occupy- 
ing a  space  of  71  acres  on  a  hill  4  miles  NW  of  Stone- 
haven. Another  camp,  more  evidently  Roman,  was 
formerly  on  ground  contiguous  to  Stonehaven.  Numer- 
ous tumuli,  most  of  them  small,  but  some  of  them  very 
large,  are  on  Kempstone  Hill,  2J  miles  N  of  the  town, 
and  are  supposed  to  be  sepulchral  monuments,  raised  on 
a  battlefield.  Remains  of  a  small  old  castle  and  of  St 
Mary's  pre-Reformation  chapel,  are  on  the  coast  at 
Cowie.  Malcolm's  Mount,  1  mile  W  of  Stonehaven, 
takes  its  name  from  Malcolm  I.,  King  of  Alban  (942-54), 
who,  according  to  the  Ulster  Annals,  was  slain  here  by 
the  men  of  Mearns,  though  later  chronicles  remove  his 
death  further  N — to  Ulurn  in  Moray.  Fetteresso 
Castle,  near  the  left  bank  of  Cowie  Water,  2  miles  W 
by  S   of  Stonehaven,  stands  in  a  park  adorned  with 

17 


FETTERNEAR 

many  venerable  trees.  A  seat  once  of  the  great  Earls 
Marisehal,  it  was  partly  rebuilt  and  greatly  extended 
about  1830  by  Colonel  Dutf,  whose  grandson,  Robert 
WiUiam  Duff,  Esq.,  M.P.  (b.  1835;  sue.  1861),  holds 
8722  acres  in  Kincardineshire,  valued  at  £4536  per 
annum.  (See  Cultek,  Aberdeenshire,  and  Glassafgh.  ) 
Other  mansions,  separately  noticed,  are  Cowie,  Elsick, 
Muchalls,  Netherley,  Newtonhill,  Rickarton,  and  Ury ; 
and,  in  all,  9  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of 
£500  and  upwards,  10  of  between  £100  and  £500,  17  of 
from  £50  to  £100,  and  47  of  from  £20  to  £50.  In  the 
presbytery  of  Fordoun  and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns, 
this  parish  is  ecclesiastically  divided  into  Fetteresso 
proper,  Cookney  (formed  1859),  and  Rickarton  (1872), 
the  first  a  living  worth  £473.  The  plain  but  very 
ancient  church,  St  Caran's,  at  Fetteresso  hamlet,  is 
still  represented  by  its  walls  or  shell,  and  by  its  large 
kirkyard,  one  of  Stonehaven's  three  cemeteries.  The 
present  parish  church,  near  the  town,  was  built  in  1810, 
and,  as  enlarged  and  greatly  improved  (1876-78)  at  a 
cost  of  £3000,  contains  1300  sittings,  and  possesses  a 
fine  organ.  Other  places  of  worship  are  noticed  under 
Stonehaven,  Cookney,  Rickarton,  and  Muchalls.  The 
eight  schools  of  Cairnliill,  Cookney,  Muchalls,  Nether- 
ley,  Rickarton,  Stonehaven,  Tewel,  and  Newtonhill — 
the  last  Episcopalian,  the  others  all  public — with  total 
accommodation  for  964  children,  had  (1881)  an  average 
attendance  of  667,  and  grants  amounting  to  £539, 
18s.  Valuation  (1856)  £21,147;  (1883)  £32,730,  12s., 
2Jhcs  £4346  for  railway.  Pop.  (1801)  3687,  (1831)  5109, 
(1861)  5527,  (1871)  5665,  (1881)  5541,  of  whom  3565  were 
in  Fetteresso  registration  district,  and  3102  in  Fetteresso 
ecclesiastical  parish. — Ord.  Siti:,  shs.  67,  66,  1871. 

Fettemear,  an  ancient  chapelry  and  an  estate  in  the 
S  of  Chapel  of  Garioch  parish,  Aberdeenshire,  near  the 
left  bank  of  the  Don,  1  mile  NNW  of  Kemnay  station. 
The  chapelry  was  constituted  in  1109  ;  its  original  church 
was  built  in  the  same  year ;  and  ruins  of  that  church  or  of 
a  successor  of  it,  together  with  its  cemetery,  still  exist. 
The  estate  belonged  to  the  bishops  of  Aberdeen,  and, 
conveyed  by  the  last  Roman  Catholic  bishop  to  the 
Leslies  of  Balquhain,  is  held  now  by  Charles  Stephen 
Leslie,  Esq.  (b.  1832  ;  sue.  1870),  who  omis  8940  acres 
in  the  shire,  valued  at  £7388  per  annum.  Its  mansion 
was  originally  a  summer  lodging  of  the  bishops  when 
surveying  the  canons  and  priests  of  the  chapelry  church, 
and  is  now  a  handsome  and  commodious  modern  resi- 
dence. A  Roman  Catholic  church,  St  John's,  was 
founded  near  the  site  of  the  ancient  church  in  1859, 
but  not  opened  till  1869,  and  consists  of  nave,  chancel, 
porch,  and  belfry,  all  built  of  granite,  with  sandstone 
dressings. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  76,  1874. 

Feuchan.     See  Feachan. 

Feugh,  Water  of,  a  stream  of  Aberdeen  and  Kincardine 
shires,  rising,  at  an  altitude  of  1800  feet  above  sea-level, 
in  the  S  of  Birse  parish,  close  to  the  Forfarshire  border, 
3  miles  AVNW  of  Mount  Battock.  Thence  it  winds  19J 
mUes  east-north-eastward  either  through  or  along  the 
borders  of  Birse,  Strachan,  and  Banchory-Ternan,  till  it 
falls  into  the  Dee  opposite  Banchory  village,  after  a 
total  descent  of  1640  feet.  Its  lowest  reach  is  spanned 
by  the  Bridge  of  Feugh,  and  includes  a  romantic  water- 
fall ;  its  principal  affluents  are  the  Aan  and  the  Dye, 
both  separately  noticed ;  and  it  is  a  capital  trouting 
stream,  containing  also  salmon  in  its  lower  waters. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  66,  1871. 

Fewin  or  Fionn,  a  loch  on  the  mutual  border  of  Assynt 
parish,  SW  Sutherland,  and  the  Coigach  section  of 
Cromartyshire,  3^  miles  SE  of  Lochinver.  The  lower- 
most of  a  chain  of  lakes  in  the  basin  of  the  river  Kiekaig, 
and  lying  357  feet  above  sea-level,  it  has  an  utmost 
length  and  width  of  2J  miles  and  3  furlongs,  and  teems 
with  beautiful  trout,  ranging  between  J  lb.  and  10  lbs. 
—Ord.  Swr.,  sh.  101,  1882. 

Fiag  or  Fiodhaig,  a  rivulet  in  Lairg  parish,  Suther- 
land, issuing  from  Loch  Fiodhaig  (IJ  mile  x  5J  furl.  ; 
650  feet),  and  running  5|  miles  southward  to  Loch  Shin 
(270  feet),  at  a  point  5J  miles  ESE  of  that  lake's  head. 
It  traverses  a  glen  called  from  it  Glen  Fiodhaig,  and 
18 


FIFE 

abounds  in  capital  trout,  with  a  few  salmon.  — Ord.  Sur. , 
sh.  108,  1880. 

Fiddioh,  a  small  river  of  Banff"shire,  rising  in  the  S  of 
Mortlach  parish,  on  the  NE  slope  of  Corryhabbie  Hill, 
at  an  altitude  of  2300  feet,  and  4J  miles  SSE  of  Ben 
Rinues.  Thence  it  winds  18|  miles  north -north -eastward 
and  north-westward,  tUl,  after  a  total  descent  of  nearly 
2000  feet,  it  falls  into  the  river  Spey  at  CraigeUachie 
Junction.  It  is  a  capital  trout  and  salmon  stream  ;  and 
its  basin  is  partly  an  upland  glen,  partly  a  beautiful 
vale,  bearing  the  name  of  Glenfiddich  or  Fiddichside, 
and  is  proverbially  notable  in  its  lower  reaches  for 
fertility.  DuUan  "Water  is  its  principal  affluent ;  it 
traverses  or  bounds  the  parishes  of  Mortlach,  Boharm, 
and  Aberlour  ;  and  it  flows  by  Auchindoun,  Duiftown, 
and  Balvenie,  all  three  of  which  are  noticed  separately. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  75,  85,  1876. 

Fidra  or  Fetheray,  a  rocky  basaltic  islet  of  Dirleton 
parish,  Haddingtonshire,  3  furlongs  from  the  coast,  and 
2|  mOes  WNW  of  North  Berwick.  It  has  ruins  of  a 
small  old  chapel. 

Fife  or  Fifeshire,  a  maritime  county  on  the  E  side  of 
Scotland.  It  is  bounded  on  the  N  by  the  Firth  of  Tay, 
on  the  E  by  the  German  Ocean,  on  the  S  by  the  Firth 
of  Forth,  and  on  the  W  by  Perth,  Clackmannan, 
and  Kinross  shires.  Its  greatest  length,  from  Fife  Ness 
west-south-westward  to  Torry,  is  41J  miles  ;  its  greatest 
breadth  in  the  opposite  direction,  from  Newburgh  on  the 
Tay  to  Burntisland  on  the  Firth  of  Forth,  is  21  miles  ; 
and  its  area  is  513  square  miles  or  328,427  acres,  of 
which  12,338i  are  foreshore  and  1082  water.  The 
western  boundary,  61  miles  long  if  one  follows  its  ins 
and  outs,  is  marked  here  and  there,  from  S  to  N,  by 
Comrie  Burn,  Loch  Glow,  Lochornie  Burn,  Benarty 
Hill,  and  the  rivers  Leven  and  Farg,  but  mostly  is  arti- 
ficial. The  northern  coast,  which  has  little  curvature, 
trends  mostly  in  an  east-north-easterly  direction,  and 
measures  20f  miles  in  length  ;  the  eastern  is  deeply 
indented  by  St  Andrews  Bay  or  the  estuary  of  the 
Eden,  and  in  its  southern  part  forms  a  triangular 
peninsula,  terminating  in  Fife  Ness,  on  the  N  of  the 
entrance  to  the  Firth  of  Forth.  The  coast  measures  in 
a  straight  line  from  Tents  Moor  Point  to  Fife  Ness  14J 
miles,  but  along  its  curvatures  24  miles.  The  southern 
coast,  55  miles  long,  from  Fife  Ness  to  North  Queensferry 
runs  generally  in  a  south-westerly  direction,  and  from 
North  Queensferry  to  the  western  boundary  takes  a  west- 
north-westerly  turn.  The  shore-line  projects  slightly  at 
Elie  Ness,  Kinghorn  Ness,  and  North  Queensferry,  and 
has  considerable  bays  at  Largo  and  Inverkeithing.  It 
ofi'ers  a  pleasing  variety  of  beach  and  shore,  partly 
rocky  and  partly  sandy,  but  generally  low  and  gentle. 
The  sea  has,  from  time  to  time,  made  great  encroach- 
ments on  the  shores  of  Fife,  at  IJurntisland,  Kirkcaldy, 
Dysart,  Grail,  St  Andrews,  and  other  places,  eating  away 
fields,  gardens,  fences,  piers,  and  even  dwelling-houses. 

Fife,  for  its  size,  has  a  smaller  fresh-water  area  than 
has  any  other  Scotch  count}',  smaller  indeed  than  have 
several  Highland  parishes.  The  only  streams  of  any 
consequence  are  the  Eden,  winding  29J  miles  east- 
north-eastward  to  St  Andrews  Bay  ;  the  Leven,  flowing 
16J  miles  eastward  (the  first  1|  in  Kinross-shire)  out  of 
Loch  Leven  to  Largo  Bay ;  and  the  Orr,  creeping 
17  miles  east-by-northward  to  the  Leven  a  little  above 
Cameron  Bridge.  The  lakes,  too,  all  are  small — 
Kilconquhar  Loch  (4x3  furl.),  in  the  SE ;  Kinghorn 
Loch  (IfxlJ  furl.),  Camilla  Loch  (2x1  furl.).  Loch 
Gelly  (5|-  x  3^  furl. ),  Loch  Fifty  (8x2  furl. ),  and  Loch 
Glow  (6  X  3  J  furl. ),  in  the  S  and  SW  ;  and  Lindores 
Loch  (6|x3  furl.),  in  the  NW.  And  the  surface, 
though  mostly  undulating  or  hilly,  is  nowhere  moun- 
tainous, the  principal  heights  being  Lucklaw  Hill  (626 
feet),  in  the  NE ;  Kellie  Law  (500)  and  Largo  Law 
(965),  in  the  SE ;  Burntisland  Bin  (632)  and  Dunearn 
Hill  (671),  in  the  S  ;  East  Lomond  (1471)  and  West 
Lomond  (1713),  near  the  middle  of  the  W  border ; 
Benarty  Hill  (1167),  Knock  Hill  (1189),  and  Saline  Hill 
(1178),  in  the  SW ;  and  Green  Hill  (608),  Black  Craig 
(665),  Norman's  Law  (850),  and  Lumbenny  Hill 


Brilisk  ^Blcs. 


-% 


•      f     > 


''Jogs 


FIFE 

in  the  NW.  So  tliat  Mr  Hutchison  is  fully  justified  in 
saying  that  '  the  physical  aspect  of  Fife  possesses 
nothing  specially  remarkable,  and,  compared  ■with  por- 
tions of  the  contiguous  counties,  may  be  described  as 
rather  tame.  Geologically,  it  consists  of  one  or  two 
extensive  open  valleys  and  some  smaller  ones,  vnth  the 
alternating  high  lands,  and  then  a  gradual  slope  all 
round  the  coast  towards  the  sea.  Lofty  mountains 
there  are  none  ;  only  hills,  of  which  the  principal  are 
AVilkie's  "ain  blue  Lomonds,"  Largo  Law,  and  Nor- 
man's Law.  The  Eden  and  the  Leven,  with  some 
tributary  streams,  are  the  only  rivers  in  the  interior ; 
but  the  absence  of  any  imposing  volume  of  water  inland 
is  amply  atoned  for  by  the  two  noble  estuaries  of  the 
Forth  and  the  Tay,  which,  with  the  German  Ocean, 
surround  three-fourths  of  the  county.  Fife,  as  a  whole, 
although  the  surface  is  nowhere  flat,  but  pleasantly 
undulating  all  over,  except,  perhaps,  in  what  is  called 
the  "  Howe  of  Fife,"  is  lacking  in  both  the  picturesque 
and  the  sublime,  and  it  has  never  been  regarded  as  a 
hunting-field  for  tourists.  Its  grand  attractive  feature, 
however,  in  the  way  of  scenery,  is  the  sea-coast.  "He," 
says  Defoe,  "  that  will  view  the  county  of  Fife,  must  go 
round  the  coast;"  and  Mr  Billings  remai-ks  that  "a 
ramble  amongst  the  grey  old  towns  which  skirt  the 
ancient  Kingdom  of  Fife  might  well  repay  the  archi- 
tectural or  archaeological  investigator."  We  might  add 
that  the  tourist  who  was  daring  enough  to  abjure 
Schieliallion  and  Loch  Maree  for  a  season,  and  "  do  " 
the  coast  of  Fife  instead,  would  be  equally  surprised 
and  delighted  with  his  vacation  trip  ;  a  seaboard  which 
is  begirt  with  a  score  or  more  of  towns  and  townlets, 
nearly  as  many  ruined  castles,  several  islands,  and  bays 
and  creeks  and  picturesque  projections  innumerable. ' 

Geology. — The  oldest  rocks  in  the  county  belong  to 
the  volcanic  series  of  the  Lower  Old  Red  Sandstone. 
The  members  of  this  series,  consisting  of  a  great  succes- 
sion of  lavas  and  tuffs,  can  be  traced  from  the  Ochils 
where  they  are  folded  into  a  broad  anticline  NE  by  the 
Sidlaws  to  Dunnottar  in  Kincardineshire.  The  high 
grounds  bounding  the  Howe  of  Fife  on  the  N  side  are 
composed  of  these  igneous  materials,  indeed  they  cover 
the  whole  area  between  Damhead  and  Tayjiort.  They 
are  inclined  to  the  SSE  at  gentle  angles,  so  that  we 
have  only  the  southern  portion  of  the  anticlinal  arch 
represented  in  the  county.  Lithologically  these  ancient 
lavas  are  composed  of  red  and  purple  porphyrites, 
which,  at  certain  localities,  are  associated  with  ex- 
tremely coarse  agglomerates.  In  the  neighbourhood  of 
Auchtermuchty,  and  even  to  the  E  of  that  locality, 
the  agglomerates  present  appearances  indicating  partial 
rearrangement  by  water ;  indeed  in  some  places  they 
are  indistinguishable  from  conglomerates  formed  by 
aqueous  action.  When  we  come  to  describe  the  pro- 
longations of  these  rocks  in  Forfarshii-e  and  Kincardine- 
shire it  will  be  seen  that  the  volcanic  accumulations, 
which,  in  Perthshire  and  Fifeshire,  have  hardly  any 
intercalations  of  sedimentary  material,  are  associated  in 
the  former  counties  with  conglomerates,  sandstones,  and 
shales,  till  at  Dunnottar  they  are  represented  by  a  few 
thin  sheets  of  porphyrite.  It  is  probable,  therefore,  that 
the  partially  waterworn  agglomerates  at  Auchtermuchty 
are  indications  of  the  change  of  physical  conditions. 
On  the  slope  overlooking  the  Tay,  near  the  vUlage  of 
Balmerino,  some  thin  beds  of  sandstone  and  shales  are 
intercalated  with  the  porphyrites  which  have  yielded 
remains  of  fishes  similar  to  those  obtained  in  the  For- 
farshire flagstones. 

A  long  interval  must  have  elapsed  between  the  close 
of  the  Lower  and  the  beginning  of  the  Upper  Old  Red 
Sandstone  periods,  which  is  indicated  by  a  strong  un- 
conformity between  the  two  series.  This  vast  interval 
was  characterised  by  certain  sti-iking  physical  changes 
which  may  be  briefly  summarised.  Between  the  OchUs 
and  the  flanks  of  the  Grampians  a  great  succession  of 
sedimentary  deposits,  nearly  10,000  feet  in  thickness, 
rests  conformably  on  the  volcanic  series,  which  originally 
extended  far  to  the  S  of  their  present  limits.  Indeed 
they  must  have  completely  buried  the  volcanic  accumu- 


FIFE 

lations,  though  not  necessarily  to  the  extent  indicated 
by  their  thickness  N  of  the  Ochils.  The  Grampian 
chain  formed  the  northern  margin  of  the  inland  sea  in 
which  these  deposits  were  laid  down,  and  the  sediment 
may  have  decreased  in  thickness  in  proportion  to  the 
distance  from  the  old  land  surface.  At  any  rate,  during 
the  interval  referred  to,  the  volcanic  rocks  and  overlying 
sedimentary  deposits  were  folded  into  a  great  anticlinal 
arch,  the  latter  were  removed  by  denudation  from  the 
top  of  the  anticline,  and  the  volcanic  series  was  exposed 
to  the  action  of  atmospheric  agencies.  Further,  the 
great  igneous  plateau,  during  its  elevation  above  the 
sea-level,  must  have  been  carved  into  hills  and  valleys 
ere  the  deposition  of  the  Upper  Old  Red  Sandstone. 

The  members  of  the  latter  series  are  traceable  from 
Loch  Leven  through  the  Howe  of  Fife  by  Cupar  to  the 
sea  coast.  Along  this  tract  they  rest  unconformably  on 
the  volcanic  rocks  just  described,  and  they  pass  con- 
formably below  the  Cementstone  series  of  the  Carboni- 
ferous system.  They  consist  of  honeycombed  red  and 
yellow  sandstones  which  become  conglomeratic  towards 
the  local  base,  the  pebbles  being  derived  from  the  under- 
lying rocks.  On  the  W  side  of  the  Lomonds  they  dip 
to  the  E,  while  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Sti'athmiglo, 
where  their  thickness  must  be  about  1000  feet,  they  are 
inclined  to  the  SSE.  This  series  has  become  famous 
for  the  well-preserved  fishes  obtained  in  the  yellow  sand- 
stones of  Dura  Den,  comprising  Phanero2}Uuron  Ander- 
soni,  Pterichthys  hydropJiilus,  GlyiAolaemus  Kinnairdi, 
Glyptopomiis  minor,  Holoptychius  Andersoni.  The  last 
form  seems  to  have  been  fossilised  in  shoals.  Eoloptychius 
iiohilissimus  and  Pterichthys  major  are  found  in  the 
underlying  red  sandstones. 

The  Upper  Old  Red  Sandstone  is  succeeded  by  the 
various  divisions  of  the  Carboniferous  system  which  are 
well  represented  in  the  county.  The  succession  may  be 
readily  understood  from  the  following  table  of  the  strata 
given  in  descending  order : — 

{  Red  sandstones. 
Coal  Measures.  \  Sandstones,  shales,  ^ith  several 
j     workable  coal  seams  and  iron- 
(     stones. 


Carboniferous 
System. 


Millstone  Grit. 


( Coarse     sandstone     and     con- 
(     glomerate. 

i Upper  Limestone  series. 
Middle    series    with    coals    and 
ironstones  but  containinff  no 
limestones. 
Lower  Limestone  series. 

'Cementstone  series    comprising 
blacls    and    blue    shales  with 
marine  zones,  limestones,  sand- 
Calciferous    J      stones  with  thin  seams    and 
Sandstones.     ]     streaks  of   coal  passing:    con- 
formably dowiiwards  into  red 
and  yellow  sandstones  (Upper 
(^  1^    Old  Red  Sandstone). 

The  Cementstone  series  occupies  several  detached  areas, 
and  presents  two  distinct  types.  Along  the  coimty 
boundary  between  Fife  and  Kinross  there  is  a  small 
outlier  on  the  N  slopes  of  the  Cleish  Hills  representing 
the  W  type.  There  the  strata  consist  of  blue  clays  and 
sandstones  with  cementstone  bands  and  nodules.  The 
members  of  this  series,  of  a  tj^pe  approaching  that  to 
the  S  of  St  Andrews,  crop  out  also  on  the  W  and  N 
slopes  of  the  Lomonds,  and  they  extend  E  by  Cults 
and  Ceres  to  the  coast.  By  far  the  most  important 
development  of  this  series,  however,  occurs  in  the 
triangular  area  between  Elie  and  St  Andrews  and  round 
the  shore  by  Fife  Ness.  The  essential  feature  of  the 
group  is  the  occurrence  of  a  great  thickness  of  shales 
with  marine  bands  characterised  chiefly  by  Myalina 
•modioliformis  and  Schizodus  Salteri.  These  shales  alter- 
nate  with  sandstones  and  limestones,  the  latter  being 
charged  with  ti'ue  Carboniferous  Limestone  forms.  About 
midway  between  St  Monans  and  Pitteuweem  on  the 
coast,  the  members  of  this  series  pass  conformably 
below  the  basement  beds  of  the  Carboniferous  Lime- 
stone with  an  inclination  to  the  W,  and  from  this 
point   E   to   Anstruther  there  is  a  steady  descending 

19 


riFE 

series  for  2  miles.  Upwards  of  3900  feet  of  strata  are 
exposed  in  this  section,  and  yet  the  underlying  red 
sandstones  are  not  brought  to  the  surface.  At  Anstruther 
the  beds  roll  over  to  the  E,  and  the  same  strata  are  re- 
peated by  gentle  undulations  as  far  as  Fife  Ness.  It  is 
probable,  therefore,  that  the  beds  at  Anstruther  are  the 
oldest  of  the  Cementstone  series  now  exposed  at  the  sur- 
face between  Elie  and  St  Andrews.  From  the  valuable 
researches  of  Mr  Kirkby,  it  appears  that  aU  the  fossils, 
save  Sanguinolitcs  Abdensis,  which  are  found  in  the 
marine  bands  near  the  top  of  the  series  at  Pittenweem, 
occur  also  in  the  Carboniferous  Limestone.  Not  until 
nearly  3000  feet  of  strata  have  been  passed  over,  do  we 
find  forms  that  are  peculiar  to  this  horizon,  some  of 
which  are  given  in  the  following  list : — Littorina 
scotoburdigalensis,  Cypricardia  bicosta,  Myalina  modioli- 
formis,  Sanguinolites Abdensis,  Schizodus  Salteri,  Bairdia 
nitida,  Cythere  siiperba,  Kirkbya  sjnralis.  Another  dis- 
tinguishing feature  of  this  type  of  the  Cementstone  series 
is  the  presence  of  numerous  cases  of  ostracod  crustaceans, 
of  which  the  most  abundant  form  is  Lcjjcrditia  Okeni 
var.  Scotoburdigalensis.  Numerous  thin  seams  and 
streaks  of  coal,  varying  from  a  few  inches  to  2  feet  in 
thickness,  are  exposed  in  this  coast  section.  They  rest 
on  fii'eclays  which  are  charged  with  stigmarian  rootlets. 

The  Cementstone  group  is  likewise  met  with  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Burntisland,  an  area  which  is  invested 
rath  special  importance  on  account  of  the  great  develop- 
ment of  volcanic  rocks  to  be  described  presently.  In 
this  district  they  occupy  a  semicircular  area  extending 
from  Inverkeithing  Bay  to  near  Kirkcaldy.  A  line 
drawn  from  Donibristle  N  by  Camilla  Loch  near  Auchter- 
tool,  thence  winding  round  Raith  Park  and  S  to  the 
sea-shore  at  Seafield  Tower,  marks  the  rim  of  the  semi- 
circle. Along  this  line  they  pass  conformably  below 
the  basement  beds  of  the  Carboniferous  Limestone.  The 
sedimentary  strata  with  the  interbedded  volcanic  rocks 
are  folded  into  an  anticlinal  arch,  the  lowest  beds  being 
exposed  near  Burntisland  where  they  are  inclined  to  the 
N  and  NNW.  From  the  presence  of  marine  zones  in 
the  Calciferous  Sandstones  of  this  area,  it  is  evident 
that  the  Burntisland  district  forms  a  connecting  link  be- 
tween the  types  represented  in  Midlothian  and  between 
Pittenweem  and  St  Andrews.  The  Grange  limestone 
at  Burntisland  is  regarded  as  the  equivalent  of  the 
Burdiehouse  Limestone  to  the  S  of  Edinburgh. 

In  the  "W  of  Fife  the  members  of  the  Carboniferous 
Limestone  lap  round  the  anticlinal  arch  of  the 
Cementstone  series  at  Burntisland,  and  they  cc^ver  the 
whole  of  the  area  between  that  arch  and  the  Cleish 
Hills.  To  the  E  and  W  they  pass  below  the  Dysart 
and  Kinglassie  coal-fields  respectively,  reappearing  to  the 
N  in  the  Lomond  HUls,  and  being  traceable  from  thence 
into  East  Fife  as  far  as  Westfleld  and  Eadernie.  As  in 
other  districts  in  Scotland  this  series  is  divisible  into 
three  groups,  described  in  the  foregoing  table.  The 
limestones  of  the  lowest  group  occur  at  Roscobie,  Dun- 
fermline, Potmetal,  and  on  the  Lomond  HOls.  The 
middle  division  consists  of  a  succession  of  sandstones 
and  shales  with  coals  and  ironstones,  comprising  the 
Torryburn,  Oakley,  Saline,  Dunfermline,  Kirkcaldy, 
and  Markinch  coal-fields.  Indeed,  this  group  forms  the 
chief  source  of  the  gas  coals  and  blackband  ironstones 
of  Fife.  The  limestones  of  the  upper  group  are  com- 
paratively insignificant.  They  crop  out  on  the  coast  E 
of  Pathhead,  where  they  pass  below  the  Millstone  Grit. 

The  latter  series,  consisting  of  coarse  sandstone  and 
conglomerate,  forms  a  narrow  border  round  the  Dysart 
coal-field  on  the  W  and  the  Kinglassie  coal-field  on  the 
S.  It  is  well  exposed  on  the  shore  to  the  E  of  Path- 
head,  where  it  is  rapidly  succeeded  by  the  true  Coal- 
measures.  The  latter  are  best  developed  in  the  Dysart 
and  Leven  coal-fields,  though  a  small  area  is  also  met 
■with  at  Kinglassie.  This  series  consists  of  sandstones, 
shales,  numerous  workable  coal  seams,  clayband  iron- 
stones, and  an  overlyins  group  of  red  sandstones.  In 
the  Dysart  and  East  Wemyss  coal-field  there  are  no 
fewer  than  fourteen  seams  of  coal  which  are  inclined  to 
the  E  at  angles  varying  from  10°  to  20°. 
20 


FIFE 

A  remarkable  feature  of  the  Carboniferous  system  as 
represented  in  Fife  is  the  great  development  of  contem- 
poraneous and  intrusive  volcanic  rocks.  In  this  county 
volcanic  activity  seems  to  have  begun  somewhat  later  than 
in  the  Edinburgh  district,  and  to  have  been  partly  coeval 
with  that  in  West  Lothian.  In  the  neighbourhood  of 
Burntisland  there  must  have  been  a  continuation  of  the 
volcanic  action  from  the  horizon  of  the  Grange  Lime- 
stone in  the  Cementstone  series  to  the  basement  beds  of 
the  Carboniferous  Limestone.  The  basaltic  lavas  and 
tuffs  which  were  ejected  during  that  period  are  admir- 
ably displayed  on  the  shore  section  between  Burntisland 
and  Seafield  Tower  near  Kirkcaldy,  where  they  are 
interstratified  with  marine  limestones,  sandstones,  and 
shales.  _  But  on  the  Saline  Hill  in  West  Fife  there  is 
conclusive  evidence  that  volcanoes  must  have  been 
active  even  during  the  deposition  of  the  coal-bearing 
series  of  the  Carboniferous  Limestone.  That  eminence 
marks  the  site  of  a  vent  from  which  tuff  was  ejected 
which  was  regularly  interbedded  with  the  adjacent 
strata.  Seams  of  coal  and  ironstone  are  actually  worked 
underneath  the  tuff  on  the  S  side  of  Saline  Hill,  and  not 
far  to  the  E  a  bed  of  gas  coal  is  mined  on  the  slope  of 
the  Knock  Hill  which  forms  another  '  neck '  belonging 
to  that  period. 

In  East  Fife,  as  the  researches  of  Professor  A.  Geikie 
have  conclusively  shown,  there  is  a  remarkable  develop- 
ment of  volcanic  vents  which  are  now  filled  with  tuff  or 
agglomerate.  Upwards  of  fifty  of  these  ancient  orifices 
occur  between  Leven  and  St  Andrews,  piercing  the 
Calciferous  sandstones,  the  upper  or  true  Coal-measures, 
and  even  the  overlying  red  sandstones,  which  are  the 
youngest  members  of  the  Carboniferous  system.  It  is 
evident,  therefore,  that  most  of  these  '  necks '  must 
be  of  later  date  than  the  Carboniferous  period.  Nay, 
more,  from  the  manner  in  which  they  rise  along  lines 
of  dislocation,  and  pierce  anticlinal  arches  as  well  as 
synclinal  troughs,  from  the  way  in  which  the  volcanic 
ejectamenta  rest  on  the  denuded  edges  of  the  Carboni- 
ferous Limestone  series,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  they 
were  posterior  to  the  faulting,  folding,  and  denudation 
of  the  strata.  Professor  A.  Geikie  has  suggested  that 
they  probably  belong  to  the  period  of  volcanic  activity 
indicated  by  the  '  necks '  of  Permian  age  in  Ayi'shire. 
Largo  Law  is  a  striking  example  of  one  of  the  cone- 
shaped  necks,  and  so  also  is  the  Binn  Hill  at  Burnt- 
island. Another  great  vent,  upwards  of  J  mile  in 
length,  occurs  on  the  shore  at  Kincraig  Point,  E  of 
Largo  Bay,  which  is  filled  with  tuff.  In  this  case  the 
tuflf  is  pierced  by  a  mass  of  columnar  basalt,  the  columns 
rising  to  a  height  of  150  feet  above  the  sea-level.  The 
occurrence  of  veins  and  masses  of  basalt  is  a  common 
feature  among  these  necks,  but  it  is  seldom  that  such  a 
remarkable  example  of  columnar  structure  is  displayed 
in  the  series.  The  Rock  and  Spindle  near  St  Andrews 
is  an  excellent  instance  of  the  radial  arrangement  of  the 
columns. 

No  less  remarkable  are  the  great  intrusive  sheets  of 
basalt  and  dolerite  which  are  conspicuously  developed 
in  the  Carboniferous  rocks  of  Fife.  Indeed,  in  none  of 
the  other  counties  in  Scotland  do  they  occur  in  such 
numbers.  From  the  Cult  Hill  near  Saline,  they  are 
traceable  E  along  the  Cleish  Hills  to  Blairadam.  They 
cap  Benarty  and  the  Lomonds,  and  from  that  range 
they  may  be  followed  in  irregular  masses  to  St  Andrews 
and  Dunino.  Another  belt  of  them  extends  from 
Torryburn  by  Dunfermline  to  Burntisland,  thence 
winding  round  by  Auchtertool  to  Kirkcaldy.  They 
occur  mainly  about  the  horizon  of  the  lowest  limestones 
of  the  Carboniferous  Limestone  series,  and  are,  in  all 
probability,  the  E  extension  of  the  intrusive  sbeets  at 
Stirling  Castle  and  Abbey  Craig.  But  in  addition  to 
these  great  intrusive  masses  of  Carboniferous  age,  there 
are  various  dykes  of  basalt  having  a  general  E  and  W 
trend,  which  may  probably  belong  to  the  Tertiary 
period.  Of  these,  the  best  examples  are  met  with  in  the 
Old  Red  Saiidstone  area,  near  Damhead,  and  W  of 
Strathmiglo. 

The  direction  of  the  ice  flow  dming  the  glacial  period 


FIFE 

was  SE  across  the  Oehils,  but  as  the  ice  sheet  approached 
the  Firth  of  Forth  it  veered  round  to  the  E  and  ENE. 
An  instance  of  this  hrtter  movement  occurs  near  Petty- 
cur  N  of  Burntisland,  where  the  strias  point  E  15°  N. 
Througliout  the  county  there  is  a  widespread  covering 
of  boulder  clay,  which,  like  the  deposit  on  the  SE 
slopes  of  the  Sidlaws,  contains  an  assemblage  of 
boulders  derived  from  the  Grampians.  A  great  series 
of  sands  and  gravels  rests  on  the  boulder  clay  at 
certain  localities,  which  seems  to  have  a  direct  connec- 
tion with  the  retirement  of  the  ice.  Where  there  are 
open  valleys  forming  passes  across  the  Oehils,  great 
ridges  of  gravel  are  met  with  parallel  to  the  trend 
of  the  valleys.  Near  the  mouths  of  the  passes  the 
material  is  very  coarse,  but  it  gradually  becomes  finer 
and  more  water-worn  as  we  advance  southwards. 
Similar  deposits  are  met  with  in  the  E  of  Fife,  which 
are,  to  a  large  extent,  of  the  same  origin.  There  is  no 
trace  of  the  later  glaciation  within  the  county. 

The  100-feet  beach  is  traceable  round  the  greater  part 
of  the  coast-line,  being  well  developed  at  Dunfermline, 
Eirkcaldy,  and  in  the  Howe  of  Fife.  The  arctic  shells 
at  Elie  occur  in  the  fine  clays  of  this  beach,  and  in  a 
simUar  deposit  of  the  same  age  near  Cupar,  bones  of  a 
seal  have  been  exhumed.  Along  the  estuary  of  the  Tay 
this  beach  forms  but  a  narrow  terrace  of  gravel,  owing 
to  the  comparatively  steep  slope  flanking  the  sliore.  In 
that  neighbourhood  there  are  indicarons  of  an  old  sea 
margin  at  the  level  of  75  feet,  as  if  there  had  been  a 
slight  pause  in  the  upheaval  of  the  land.  The  50  and 
25  feet  beaches  are  well  represented,  the  one  merging 
into  the  other.  In  the  East  Neuk  of  Fife  the  latter  is 
bounded  by  an  inland  clilf,  in  which  sea-worn  caves  are 
not  uncommon. 

The  soil — we  abridge  from  Mr  Macdonald — to  the  IT 
of  the  Eden  is  quick  and  fertile,  nowhere  very  deep  or 
very  strong,  but  kindly,  highly  productive,  and  specially 
suited  for  the  cultivation  of  grass.  The  Howe  of  Fife 
or  Stratheden,  comprising  both  sides  of  the  Eden  up  as 
far  as  Cupar,  has  a  rich  fertile  soil,  parts  of  it  being 
exceedingly  productive.  S  of  the  Eden  the  land  rises 
gradually,  tiU,  in  Cameron  parish,  it  reaches  600  feet. 
On  this  high  land  the  soil  is  cold  and  stiff  and  of  a 
clayey  character,  with  a  mixture  of  lime.  Round  Lady- 
bank  it  is  very  light  and  shingly,  as  though  its  richest 
earthy  coating  had  been  swept  oft'  by  a  current  of  water. 
The  land  on  the  rising-ground  in  CoUessie,  Monimail, 
Cults,  and  Kettle  parishes  is  heavier  and  more  valuable 
than  in  the  valley  of  Ladybank.  In  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  Lomonds  and  on  the  high  land  of  Auctermuchty, 
Leslie,  and  Kinglassie  the  soil  is  light,  but  sharp  and 
valuable  for  grass  ;  in  Beath,  Auchterderran,  and  Bal- 
lingry  it  is  principally  cold  and  stiff,  though  several 
excellent  highly-cultivated  farms  are  in  these  parishes. 
A  good  deal  of  land  on  the  N  side  of  Dunfermline  is 
strong  retentive  clay,  on  the  S  is  thin  loam  with  a 
strong  clayey  subsoil.  In  Saline,  Torryburn,  and  Car- 
nock  the  soil  is  mainly  a  mixture  of  clay  and  loam, 
and  is  generally  very  fertile.  All  along  the  coast,  too, 
though  variable  in  composition,  it  is  rich  and  productive. 
The  '  Laich  of  Dunfermline '  has  a'strong  clayey  soil,  very 
fertile  on  the  whole,  but  somewhat  stiff'  to  cultivate. 
The  soil  between  Inverkeithing  and  Leven  varies  from 
light  dry  to  strong  clayey  loam,  rendered  highly  pro- 
ductive and  friable  by  superior  cultivation  ;  it  is  deep 
rich  loam  about  Largo,  and  light  in  Elie,  both  equally 
fertile  and  productive  ;  and  along  the  E  coast  it  is  deep, 
strong,  and  excellent,  consisting  chiefly  of  clay  and  rich 
loam.  Near  St  Andrews  the  soil  is  by  no  means  heavy, 
while  the  section  NE  of  Leuchars  village  is  sandy  and 
very  light,  especially  on  the  E  coast,  where  a  large  tract 
of  land  known  as  Tent's  Moor  is  wholly  covered  with 
sand,  and  almost  useless  for  agricultural  pm'poses.  In 
Forgan  and  part  of  Ferryport-on-Craig  the  soil,  though 
light  and  variable,  is  kindly  and  fertile. 

In  the  whole  of  Scotland  the  percentage  of  cultivated 
area  is  only  24 '2;  in  Fife  it  rises  as  high  as  74 '8,  a 
figure  approached  by  only  six  other  counties — Linlith- 
gow (73-1),  Berwick  (65'4),  Haddington  (64-4),  Kinross 


FIFE 

(62-8),  Renfrew  (57-8),  and  Edinburgh  (57-1).  This 
being  the  case,  little  has  been  reclaimed  of  recent  years 
in  Fife,  since  little  was  left  to  reclaim  ;  but  great  im- 
provements have  been  effected  since  1850  in  the  way  of 
draining  and  re-draining,  fencing,  building,  etc.  The 
six-course  shift  of  rotation  predominates ;  leases  are 
nearly  always  for  19  years  ;  and  '  in  the  matter  of  land 
apportionment  Fife  is  almost  all  that  could  be  desired.' 
Out  of  2392  holdings,  there  are  1307  of  50  acres  and 
under,  217  of  from  50  to  100,  643  of  from  100  to  300, 
192  of  from  300  to  500,  32  of  from  500  to  1000,  and  1 
only  of  o^er  1000.  In  1875  rents  varied  between  17s.  6d. 
and  £5  (or  in  Crail  even  £8)  an  acre,  but  the  latter 
high  figures  have  had  to  come  down  in  the  face  of  the 
great  recent  agricultural  depression.  Fife,  having  more 
to  lose,  has  perhaps  suffered  more  than  any  other  Scotch 
county  ;  and  in  the  summer  of  1880  no  fewer  than  18 
of  its  farms,  extending  over  3301  acres,  were  vacant, 
whilst  several  others  had  been  stocked  and  taken  under 
charge  of  their  landlords.  Fife  is  not  a  great  county 
for  live-stock,  and  the  majority  of  its  cattle  are  Irish 
bred.  The  few  cows  kept  are  crosses  mostly  of  some- 
what obscure  origin  ;  the  bulls  are  almost  all  shorthorns. 
Since  the  dispersion  of  the  famous  Keavil  herd  in  1869, 
the  breeding  of  pure  shorthorns  has  all  but  ceased. 
Neither  is  sheep-farming  practised  to  the  extent  one 
might  look  for,  soil  and  climate  considered.  The  sheep 
are  almost  all  hoggs — good  crosses  between  Cheviot 
ewes  and  Leicester  tups — with  a  few  black-faced  in  the 
western  and  higher  parts  of  the  shire.  Nearly  all  the 
farm-horses  are  Clydesdales  or  have  a  strong  touch  of 
the  Clydesdale,  powerfully  built  and  very  hardy,  great 
care  having  been  exercised  of  recent  years  in  the  selec- 
tion of  stallions,  with  highly  successful  results.  Many 
good  ponies  are  kept,  and  hunters  and  carriage-horses 
are  generally  of  a  superior  class.  Swiue  are  not  nume- 
rous, but  have  been  greatly  improved  by  crossing  the 
native  sows  with  Berkshire  boars.  The  following  table 
gives  the  acreage  of  the  chief  crops  and  the  number  of 
live-stock  in  Fife  in  different  years  : — 


1     1S66. 

1869. 

1875. 

ISSl. 

Wheat,.    .    .     . 

34,099J 

21,433 

16,748 

13,142 

Barley,.    .     .    . 

22,866 

26,935 

30,037 

30,024 

Oats 

42,327J 

39,274 

37,646 

39,111 

Sown  Grasses,    . 

63,898 

61,394 

66,430 

62,147 

Potatoes,  .    .    . 

17,269 

18,566 

17,746 

19,156 

Turnips,    .     .     . 

29,739i 

28.375 

28,514 

27,647 

Cattle,  .... 

40,611 

36,986 

39,640 

39,076 

Sheep 

57,306 

61,135 

69,609 

69,275 

Horses,      .    .    . 

12,258* 

10,495 

9,699 

10,166 

Swine 

8,734 

6,931 

6,060 

5,366 

The  yearly  rainfall  varies  considerably,  from  21J 
inches  at  Cupar  to  36J  at  Loch  Leven,  which,  though 
in  Kinross-shire,  may  be  taken  as  representing  the 
western  portion  of  the  Fife  peninsula.  Still,  it  is  not 
by  any  means  heavy  ;  and  the  climate,  greatly  improved 
by  thorough  drainage,  and  modified  by  the  nearness  of 
the  sea,  is  mild  and  equable.  Westerly  winds  prevail, 
and  the  biting  E  winds  that  sometimes  sweep  the  coast 
are  broken  inland  by  the  numerous  belts  and  clumps  of 
plantation  that  stud  the  fields.  Less  than  one-twenty- 
third  of  the  whole  of  Scotland  is  under  woods  ;  in  Fife 
the  proportion  is  fully  one-seventeenth,  viz.,  19,471 
acres,  a  figure  surpassing  twenty,  and  surpassed  by  only 
twelve,  of  the  Scottish  coimties.  Dr  Samuel  Johnson 
remarked  in  1773  '  that  he  had  not  seen  from  Berwick 
to  St  Andrews  a  single  tree  which  he  did  not  believe  to 
have  grown  up  far  within  the  present  century.'  So  far 
the  remark  did  good,  that,  widely  read  by  the  landed 
gentry,  it  stimulated  the  planting  fever  to  intensity, 
and  hundreds  of  acres  of  hillside  now  are  clothed  with 
trees  which  otherwise  might  have  retained  their  primeval 
bareness.  It  was  false,  none  the  less,  as  shown  by  five 
tables  in  Transactions  of  the  Highland  and  Agricultural 
Society  for  1879-81,  where  sixteen  of  the  'old  and  re- 


'  Included  all  horses,  not  only  those  engag 


1  in  farming. 

21 


FIFE 

markable '  trees  described  are  trees  of  Fife — 4  Spanisli 
chestnuts  at  Aberdour  and  Balmerino,  2  asb-trees  at 
Ottei-ston  and  Donibristle,  3  sycamores  at  Aberdour  and 
Donibristle,  1  oak  at  Donibristle,  and  6  beeches  at 
Otterston,  Donibristle,  Kellie  Castle,  Leslie  House,  and 
Balmerino.  To  which  might  have  been  added  the  two 
famous  walnuts  of  Otterston,  planted  in  1589,  and  felled 
by  the  great  gale  of  January  1882. 

The  damask  manufacture  of  Dunfermline  is  probably 
unequalled  in  the  world  for  excellence  of  design  and 
beauty  of  finish.  Other  linen  manufactures,  compris- 
ing sail-cloth,  bed-ticking,  brown  linen,  dowlas,  duck, 
checks,  and  shirting,  together  with  the  spinning  of  tow 
and  flax,  are  carried  on  at  Dunfermline,  Kirkcaldy, 
Dysart,  Leslie,  Auchtermuchty,  Kiugskettle,  Ladybank, 
Strathmiglo,  Falkland,  Ferryport-ou-Craig,  and  other 
places.  The  cotton  manufacture  has  never  employed 
much  capital,  but  maintains  many  workmen  in  the 
service  of  Glasgow  houses.  Breweries  are  numerous,  and 
there  are  several  pretty  extensive  distilleries.  The  manu- 
facture of  floor-cloth  (at  Kirkcaldy),  ironfounding  and 
the  making  of  machinery,  the  tanning  of  leather,  the 
manufacture  of  earthenware  and  porcelain,  paper,  and 
fishing-nets,  coach-building,  ship-building  in  iron  and 
wood,  and  the  making  of  bricks  and  tiles,  are  also  carried 
on.  The  maritime  traffic  is  not  confined  to  any  one 
or  two  ports,  but  diff'uses  itself  round  nearly  all  the 
coasts,  at  the  numerous  towns  and  villages  on  the  Tay, 
the  German  Ocean,  and  the  Forth,  though  chieily  on 
tlie  latter.  It  is  of  considerable  aggregate  extent, 
and  has  grown  very  rapidly  of  recent  years,  according 
to  the  statistics  of  the  one  headport,  Kirkcaldy. 
Lastly,  there  are  the  fisheries,  for  cod,  ling,  hake,  etc. , 
in  the  home  waters,  and  for  herrings  as  far  afield  as 
Wick  and  Yarmouth.  The  following  are  the  fishing 
towns  and  villages,  with  the  number  of  their  boats  and 
of  their  resident  fishermen  in  1881  :  Limekilns  (5,  12), 
Inverkeitliing  (7,  21),  Aberdour  (5,  S),  Burntisland 
(21,  45),  Kinghorn  (11,  20),  Kirkcaldy  (18,  27),  and 
Dysart  (6,  10),  belonging  to  Leith  district ;  and  IJuck- 
haven  (198,  410),  Methil  (6,  20),  Leveu  (1,  3),  Largo 
(34,  60),  Elie  and  Earlsferry  (13,  24),  St  Monance 
(147,  405),  Pittenweem  (91,  240),  Anstruther  and 
OeUardyke  (221,  573),  Grail  (34,  50),  Kingsbarns 
(8,  30),  Boarhills  (3,  8),  and  St  Andrews  (57,  145), 
belonging  to  Anstruther  district.  Total,  886  boats 
and  2114  men  and  boys.  In  the  Anstruther  district 
the  number  of  barrels  of  herrings  cured  was  (1866) 
19,618,  (1878)  7523,  (1881)  10,315i  ;  of  cod,  ling,  and 
hake  taken  (1866)  32,569,  (1873)  104,647,  (1881) 
209,426.  Steam  ferries  are  maintained  between  Newport 
and  Dundee,  between  Ferryport-on-Craig  (Tayport)  and 
Broughty  Ferry,  between  Burntisland  and  Granton,  and 
between  North  Queensferry  and  South  Queensferry. 
There  was  formerly  a  ferry  from  Dirleton  in  Hadding- 
shire  to  Earlsferry,  also  from  Kirkcaldy  and  Petty  cur  to 
Leith  and  Newhaveu ;  but  these  have  been  long  since 
disused. 

A  main  line  of  railway,  connecting  by  ferry  with 
Granton,  commences  at  Burntisland,  goes  along  the 
coast  to  Dysart,  strikes  thence  northward  to  Ladybank, 
and  forks  there  into  two  lines — the  one  going  north- 
eastward to  Tayport  (communicating  there  by  ferry  with 
Broughty  Ferry),  and  the  other  going  north-westward 
to  Newburgh,  and  proceeding  thence  into  Perthshire 
towards  Perth.  One  branch  line  leaves  from  the  Tay- 
port fork,  in  the  vicinity  of  Leuchars,  and  goes  south- 
eastward to  St  Andrews  ;  and  another  branch  leaves 
the  same  fork  north-westward  to  the  vicinity  of  New- 
port, to  communicate  by  the  viaduct  across  the  Firth  of 
Tay,  now  in  process  of  reconstruction,  the  fii'st  Tay 
Bridge  having  fallen  in  1879.  Another  line,  coming 
eastward  from  Stirling,  passes  Alloa,  Dunfermline, 
Crossgates,  and  LochgeDy,  forming  a  junction  with  the 
main  line  at  Thornton.  From  the  last-named  station  a 
railway  runs  eastward  along  the  coast  to  Leven,  Largo, 
Elie,  and  Anstruther  ;  and  a  line  connecting  Anstruther 
with  St  Andrews  is  (1882)  under  construction.  From 
Alloa  and  Kinross  a  railway  enters  the  upper  reach  of 


FIFE 

Eden  valley,  passing  to  the  vicinity  of  Auchtermuchty, 
and  thence  SE  to  a  junction  with  the  main  line  at 
Ladybank.  A  railway  from  Cowdenbeath  goes  north- 
north-westward  into  Kinross-shire,  to  join  the  Alloa 
and  Ladybank  line  at  Kinross.  A  railway  has  been 
constructed,  by  the  owner  of  the  property,  from  Thorn- 
ton to  Buckhaven  and  Wemyss.  A  line  from  North 
Queensferry  to  Dunfermline,  worked  in  connection  with 
the  ferry,  is  intended  to  afford  a  through  line  to  the 
N  on  the  construction  of  the  Forth  Bridge,  and  con- 
necting lines  to  Perth  through  Glenfarg,  and  between 
luverkeithing  and  Burntisland,  form  part  of  the 
scheme.  The  Cupar  district  contains  85  miles  of  turn- 
pike roads  and  126  mUes  of  statute  labour  roads ;  the 
Dunfermline  district,  45J  of  turnpike  roads  and  49^  of 
statute  labour  roads  ;  the  St  Andrews  district,  135|  of 
turnpike  roads  and  73J  of  statute  labour  roads  ;  the 
Kirkcaldy  district,  77  of  turnpike  roads  and  674  of 
statute  labour  roads ;  the  Cupar  and  Kinross  district, 
22J  of  roads  ;  the  Outh  and  Nivingston  district,  27J  of 
tmnpike  roads  ;  the  Leven  Bridge  district,  7^  of  roads. 

The  county  returns  one  member  to  parliament  (always 
a  Liberal  since  1837) ;  and  its  constituency  was  4845  in 
1882.  Royal  burghs  exercising  the  parliamentary 
franchise  are — Dunfermline  (constituency  2330)  and 
Inverkeithing  (188),  included  in  the  Stirling  district  of 
burghs ;  the  Kirkcaldy  district  of  burghs,  comprising 
Kirkcaldy  (2018),  Burntisland  (645),  Dysart  (1773), 
and  Kinghorn  (225),  with  a  total  constituency  of  4661  ; 
and  the  St  Andrews  district  of  burghs,  comprising 
St  Andrews  (766),  Anstruther-Easter  (207),  Anstruther- 
Wester  (86),  Crail  (190),  Cupar  (733),  Kilrenny  (348), 
and  Pittenweem  (304),  with  a  total  constituency  of 
2634.  The  royal  burghs  not  now  exercising  the  parlia- 
mentary franchise  are  Newburgh,  Auchtermuchty,  Falk- 
land, and  Earlsferry.  Leslie,  Leven,  Linktown,  West 
Wemyss,  and  Elie  are  burghs  of  barony  or  of  regality ; 
and  Ladybank  and  Loohgelly  are  police  burghs. 

Mansions,  all  noticed  separately,  are  Balcaskie,  Bal- 
carres,  Birkhill,  BroomhiU,  Cambo,  Charleton,  Craw- 
ford Priory,  Donibristle,  Dysart  House,  Elie  House, 
Falldand  House,  Fordel,  Gihliston,  Grangemuir,  Inch- 
dairnie,  Inchrye  Abbey,  Kilconquhar,  Largo  House, 
Leslie  House,  Nanghton,  Otterston,  Pitcorthie,  Raith, 
Wemyss  Castle,  and  many  others.  According  to  Mis- 
cellaneous Statistics  of  the  United  Kingdom  (1879), 
304,363  acres,  with  a  total  gross  estimated  rental  of 
£905,577,  were  divided  among  10,410  landowners,  two 
together  holding  20,595  acres  (rental  £29,081),  five 
32,847  (£53,354),  fifty-two  92,748  (£187,004),  thirty- 
five  47,724  (£133,689),  sixty-five  45,484  (£80,435),  two 
hundred  and  one  51,157  (£117,993),  etc. 

The  county  is  governed  by  a  lord-lieutenant,  a  vice- 
lieutenant,  forty-five  deputy-lieutenants,  a  sheriff,  two 
sherififs-substitute,  and  344  commissioners  of  supply  and 
justices  of  peace.  It  is  divided  into  an  eastern  and  a 
western  district,  each  with  a  resident  sheriff-substitute  ; 
and  sheriff^  ordinary  and  debts  recovery  courts  are  held 
in  Cupar,  Dunfermline,  and  Kirkcaldy.  Sheriff  small- 
debt  courts  are  also  held  at  Cupar,  Dunfermline,  Kirk- 
caldy, St  Andrews,  Anstruther,  Auchtermuchty,  Leven, 
and  Newburgh.  There  is  a  burgh  police  force  in  Dun- 
fermline (11),  and  in  Kirkcaldy  (16) ;  the  remaining 
police  in  the  county  comprise  67  men,  under  a  chief 
constable,  whose  yearly  pay  is  £375.  The  number  of 
persons  tried  at  the  instance  of  the  police  in  1880  was 
1049  ;  convicted,  959  ;  committed  for  trial,  85  ;  not 
dealt  with,  120.  The  committals  for  crime  in  the 
annual  average  of  1836-40  were  167  ;  of  1841-45,  147  ; 
of  1846-50,  138;  of  1851-55,  103;  of  1856-60,  125;  of 
1861-65,  142;  of  1865-69,  141;  of  1871-75,  75;  of 
1876-80,  61.  The  registration  county  gives  off  a  part 
of  Abernethy  parish  to  Perthshire ;  takes  in  parts  of 
Arngask  parish  from  Perthshire  and  Kinross-shiie  ;  and 
had  in  1881  a  population  of  172,131.  The  number  of 
registered  poor  in  the  year  ending  14  May  1881  was 
3293  ;  of  dependants  on  these,  2120 ;  of  casual  poor, 
1876  ;  of  dependants  on  these,  1197.  The  receipts  for 
the  poor  in  that  year  were  £39,593,  17s.  3Jd.  ;  and  the 


FIFE 

expenditure  was  £38,099,  16s.  6Jd.  The  number  of 
pauper  lunatics  was  432,  tlieir  cost  of  maintenance 
being  £8881,  9s.  6d.  The  percentage  of  illegitimate 
births  was  7-5  in  1872,  7-1  in  1878,  and  6-8  in  1880. 

Altliougli  seventeenth  in  size  of  the  thirty-three 
Scotch  counties,  Fife  ranks  as  fifth  in  respect  of  rental- 
roll  (only  Aberdeen,  Ayr,  Lanark,  and  Perth  shires  sur- 
passing it),  its  valuation,  exclusive  of  the  seventeen 
royal  bui-ghs,  of  railways,  and  of  water-works,  being 
(1815)  £405,770,  (1856)  £543,536,  (1865)  £581,127, 
(1875)  £698,471,  (1876)  £686,338,  (1880)  £700,651, 
(1882)  £697,448,  17s.,  or  £2,  2s.  6d.  per  acre.  Valua- 
tion of  railways  (1882)  £57,683  ;  of  water- works  (1882) 
£4551 ;  of  burghs  (1866)  £146,129,  (1879)  £246,555, 
(1882)  £288,472.  In  point  of  population  it  stands 
seventh,  the  six  higher  counties  being  Aberdeen,  Ayr, 
Edinburgh,  Forfar,  Lanark,  and  Renfrew  shires.  Pop. 
(1801)  93,743,  (1811)  101,272,  (1821)  114,556,  (1831) 
128,839,  (1841)  140,140,  (1851)  153,546,  (1861)  154,770, 
(1871)  160,735,  (1881)  171,931,  of  whom  80,893  were 
males  and  91,038  females,  and  of  whom  88,146  were  in 
16  towns,  44,577  in  65  villages,  and  39,208  rural,  the 
corresponding  figures  for  1871  being  76,449,  43,182,  and 
41,104.  Houses  (1881)  36,854  inhabited,  3079  vacant, 
199  building. 

The  civil  county  comprehends  sixty-one  quoad  civilia 
parishes  and  parts  of  two  others,  with  the  extra-parochial 
tract  of  the  Isle  of  May.  There  are  also  sixteen  quoad 
sacra  parishes  and  three  chapels  of  ease  belonging  to  the 
Church  of  Scotland.  The  places  of  worship  within  it 
in  1882  were,  86  of  the  Chui'ch  of  Scotland  (35,071 
communicants  in  1878),  51  of  the  Free  Church  (11,663 
communicants  in  1881),  41  of  United  Presbyterians 
(10,747  members  in  1880),  1  of  United  Original  Seceders, 
5  of  the  Congregationalists,  5  of  the  Evangelical  Union, 
7  of  Baptists,  8  of  Episcopalians,  and  4  of  Roman  Catho- 
lics. The  Established  Synod  of  Fife,  meeting  at  Kirk- 
caldy on  the  second  Tuesday  of  April  and  at  Cupar  in 
October,  comprehends  the  presbyteries  of  Dimfermline, 
Kinross,  Kirkcaldy,  Cupar,  and  St  Andrews,  and  thus 
takes  in  Kinross-shire  and  the  Perthshire  parishes  of 
Culross,  Fossoway,  and  Muckart.  Pop.  ^(1871)  170,823, 
(1881)  179,636,  of  whom  37,251  were  communicants  of 
the  Church  of  Scotland  in  1878.  The  Free  Church  Synod 
of  Fife,  meeting  at  Kirkcaldy  on  the  second  Tuesday  of 
April,  and  at  Cupar,  St  Andrews,  or  Dunfermline  on  the 
second  Tuesday  of  October,  comprises  presbyteries  iden- 
tical with  those  of  the  Established  Church,  and  had 
12,727  communicants  in  1881. 

It  is  claimed  by  the  natives  of  Fife  that  it  has  a  more 
peaceful  history  than  most  other  counties  in  Scotland, 
containing  no  great  battlefields,  and  although  prominent 
in  many  important  events,  displaying  to  view  few  signal 
crimes  and  no  great  national  disasters.  Ancient  stone 
circles,  standing  stones,  and  cairns  or  tumuli  abounded, 
but  are  not  now  to  be  found,  though  remains  of  hill  forts 
exist  in  several  places.  On  Dunearn  there  are  remains  of 
such  a  fort,  and  another  strong  one  was  on  Carueil  HiU, 
near  Carnock,  and  stood  adjacent  to  some  tumuli  which 
were  found  in  1774  to  enshrine  a  number  of  urns  contain- 
ing Roman  coins.  Traces  of  two  Roman  military  stations 
are  found  near  the  same  locality ;  and  a  Roman  camp  for 
AgricoZa's  ninth  legion  was  pitched  in  the  vicinity  of 
Loch  Orr,  confronting  Benarty  Hill  on  the  right  and  the 
Cleish  Hills  on  the  left.  Human  skeletons,  found  at 
various  periods  on  the  southern  seaboard,  are  regarded 
as  relics  of  conflicts  with  invading  Danes  in  the  9th 
and  following  centuries.  Great  monastic  establishments 
were  formed  at  St  Andrews,  Dunfermline,  Balmeriuo, 
Lindores,  Inchcobn,  and  Pittenweem,  and  have  left 
-considerable  remams.  Mediaeval  castles  stood  at  St 
Andrews,  Falkland,  Leuchars,  Kellie,  Dunfermline,  Bam- 
briech,  Balcomie,  Dairsie,  Aberdour,  Seafield,  Loch  Orr, 
Tarbet,  Rosyth,  Inverkeithing,  Raveuscraig,  Wemyss, 
Mouimail,  Balwearie,  etc. ,  and  have  left  a  large  aggregate 
of  interesting  ruins.  Old  churches,  with  more  or  less  of 
interest,  exist  at  Crail,  St  Monance,  Leuchars,  Dysart, 
Kirkforthar,  Dunfermline,  Dairsie,  and  St  Andjews. 

Early  in  the  summer  of  S3  a.d.  Agricola  had  his  army 


FIFE 

conveyed  across  the  Bodotria,  or  Firth  of  Forth,  and 
landing,  as  is  said,  at  Burntisland,  gradually  but 
thoroughly  made  himself  master  of  Fife,  whilst  his  fleet 
crept  round  its  shores,  and  penetrated  into  the  Firth  of 
Tay.  The  eastern  half  of  the  peninsula  was  then  pos- 
sessed by  the  Vernicomes,  and  the  western  by  the 
Damnonii,  one  of  whose  three  towns,  the  '  Victoria '  of 
Ptolemy,  was  situated  at  Loch  Orr,  a  lake,  now  drained, 
in  Ballingry  parish.  The  Damnonii,  says  Dr  Skene, 
'  belonged  to  the  Cornish  variety  of  the  British  race,  and 
appear  to  have  been  incorporated  with  the  southern 
Picts,  into  whose  language  they  introduced  a  British 
element.  The  Frisian  settlements,  too,  on  the  shores 
of  the  Firth  of  Forth,  prior  to  441,  may  also  have  left 
their  stamp  on  this  part  of  the  nation ;  and  the  name  of 
Fothrik,  applied  to  a  district  now  represented  by  Kin- 
ross-shire and  the  western  part  of  Fife,  may  preserve  a 
recollection  of  their  Rik  or  kingdom.'  Fife  itself  is 
probably  the  Frisian  _^67i,  'a  forest;'  the  name  Frisian 
Sea  is  applied  by  Nennius  to  the  Firth  of  Forth  ;  and 
part  of  its  northern  shore  was  kno^vn  as  the  Frisian 
Shore.  By  the  establishment  of  the  Scottish  monarchy 
in  the  person  of  Kenneth  mac  Alpin  (844-60)  Fib  or  Fife, 
as  part  of  southern  Pictavia,  became  merged  in  the  king- 
dom of  Alban,  of  which  under  Constantin  III.  (900-40) 
it  is  described  as  forming  the  second  of  seven  provinces, 
a  province  comprising  the  entire  peninsula,  along  with 
the  district  of  Cowrie.  It  thus  included  the  ancient 
Pictish  capital,  Abernethy,  whither  in  865  the  primacy 
was  transferred  from  Dunkeld,  and  whence  in  908  it  was 
again  removed  to  St  Andrews.  In  877  the  Danes,  ex- 
pelled by  the  Norwegians  from  Ireland,  sailed  up  the 
Firth  of  Clyde,  crossed  the  neck  of  the  mainland,  and 
attacked  the  province  of  Fife.  They  routed  the  '  Scots ' 
at  Dollar,  and,  chasing  them  north-eastward  to  Inver- 
dovet  in  Forgan,  there  gained  a  second  and  more  signal 
victory.  King  Constantin,  son  of  Kenneth  mac  Alpin, 
being  among  the  multitude  of  the  slain.  On  two  ac- 
counts this  battle  is  remarkable,  first  as  the  only  great 
conflict  known  for  certain  to  have  been  fought  on  Fife 
soil ;  and,  secondly,  as  the  earliest  occasion  when  the 
term  '  Scotti '  or  Scots  is  applied  to  any  of  the  dwellers  in 
Pictavia.  According  to  Hector  Boece  and  his  followers, 
Kenneth  mac  Alpin  appointed  one  Fifus  Duffus  thane  or 
governor  of  the  province  of  Fife,  but  thanes  of  Fife  there 
never  were  at  any  time,  and  the  first  Macduff,  Earl  of 
Fife,  figures  in  three  successive  charters  of  David  I. 
(1124-53),  first  as  simply  'Gillemichel  Makduf,'  next  as 
'  Gillemichel  Comes,'  and  lastly  as  '  Gillemichel  Comes 
de  Fif.'  In  earlier  charters  of  the  same  reign  we  hear, 
indeed,  of  other  Earls  of  Fife — Edelrad,  son  of  Malcolm 
Ceannmor,  and  Constantin, — but  between  these  and  the 
Macduffs  there  seems  to  have  been  no  connection.  '  The 
demesne  of  the  Macduff  Earls  of  Fife  appears  to  have 
consisted  of  the  parishes  of  Cupar,  Kilmany,  Ceres,  and 
Cameron  in  Fife,  and  those  of  Strathmiglo  and  Auchter- 
muchty  in  FothriS',  near  which  Macduff's  Cross  was 
situated.  "Whether  this  sept  were  the  remains  of  the 
old  Celtic  inhabitants  of  the  province,  or  a  Gaelic  clan 
introduced  into  it  when  its  chief  was  made  Earl,  it  is 
difficult  to  say ;  but  it  is  not  impossible  that  it  may  have 
been  a  northern  clan  who  followed  Macbeth  (1040-57) 
when  the  southern  districts  were  subjected  to  his  rule, 
and  that  there  may  be  some  foundation  for  the  legend 
that  the  founder  of  the  clan  had  rebelled  against  him, 
and  adopted  the  cause  of  Malcolm  Ceannmor,  and  so 
maintained  his  position.  Some  probability  is  lent  to 
this  supposition  by  the  fact  that  the  race  from  whom 
the  Mormaers  of  Moray  derived  their  origin  is  termed 
in  one  of  the  Irish  genealogical  MSS.  Clan  Duff,  and 
that  the  Earls  of  Fife  undoubtedly  possessed  from  an 
early  period  large  possessions  in  the  North,  including  the 
district  of  Strathaven.  The  privileges  of  the  clan,  how- 
ever, stand  on  a  different  footing.  From  the  earliest 
period  the  territory  of  Fife  comes  prominently  forward 
as  the  leading  province  of  Scotland,  and  its  earls  occupied 
the  first  place  among  the  seven  earls  of  Scotland.  The 
first  two  privileges,  of  placing  the  king  on  the  Coronation 
Stone,  and  of  heading  the  van  in  the  arm}',  were  proba.bly 

2S 


FIFE 

attached  to  the  province  of  Fife,  and  not  to  any  par- 
ticular tribe  from  which  its  earls  might  have  issued  ;  on 
the  other  hand,  the  third  seems  derived  from  the  insti- 
tution connected  -with  the  ancient  Fine,'  etc.  (Skene's 
Celtic  Scotland,  iii.  61-63,  305,  306,  1880). 

The  history  of  Fife  centres  round  no  one  town,  as  that 
of  Dumfriesshire  round  Dumfries,  but  is  divided  among 
three  at  least — St  Andrews  for  matters  ecclesiastical ; 
for  temporal,  Dunfermline  and  Falkl,vnd.  Each  of 
the  latter  has  its  royal  palace  ;  and  Dunfermline  was  the 
burial-place  of  eight  of  Scotland's  kings,  from  Malcolm 
Ceannmor  (1093)  to  the  great  Robert  Bruce  (1329),  thus 
including  Alexander  III. ,  who  met  with  his  death  in  Fife, 
being  dashed  from  his  horse  over  the  headland  of  King- 
horn  (1286).  Duncan,  Earl  of  Fife,  was  one  of  the  three 
guardians  appointed  to  rule  the  southern  district  of  the 
kingdom  in  the  absence  of  Alexander's  infant  daughter, 
the  Maid  of  Norway ;  but  lie  was  murdered  in  1288  ; 
and  his  son,  the  next  earl,  was  too  young  to  seat  John 
Baliol  on  the  Coronation  Stone  (1292)  or  to  take  any  part 
in  the  earlier  scenes  of  the  War  of  Independence.  During 
that  war,  in  1298,  the  Scottish  victory  of  'Black  Irn- 
syde '  is  said  to  have  been  won  by  "Wallace  over  Aymer 
de  Valence  in  Abdie  parish,  near  Newburgh.  The  young 
Earl  was  absent  at  the  English  court  in  1306,  but  his 
sister,  the  Countess  of  Buchan,  discharged  his  functions 
at  Bruce's  coronation,  for  which,  being  captured  by 
Edward,  she  was  hung  in  a  cage  from  one  of  the  towers 
of  Berwick.  Presently,  however,  we  find  him  on  Bruce's 
side ;  and,  according  to  Barbour,  it  was  he  and  the 
sheriff  of  Fife  who,  with  500  mounted  men-at-arms,  were 
flying  before  an  English  force  that  had  landed  at  Doni- 
bristle,  when  they  were  rallied  by  "William  Sinclair, 
Bishop  of  Dunkeld.  Another  English  force  under  the 
Earl  of  Pembroke,  in  1327,  landed  in  Fife,  and  stormed 
the  Castle  of  Leuchars  ;  and  in  1332  Edward  Bruce  and 
the '  disinherited  barons '  landed  at  Kinghorn,  and  marched 
north-westward  to  Dupplin,  in  Strathearn.  A  parlia- 
ment was  held  at  Dairsie  Castle  in  1335,  but  failed  to 
accomplish  its  purposes ;  and  another  was  then  held  at 
Dunfermline,  and  appointed  Sir  Andrew  Moray  to  the 
regency.  The  English  immediately  afterwards  invaded 
Scotland,  sent  a  powerful  fleet  into  the  Firth  of  Forth, 
and  temporarily  overmastered  Fife.  A  Scottish  army, 
soon  collected  by  Sir  Andrew  Moray  to  confront  them, 
besieged  and  captured  the  town  and  castle  of  St  Andrews, 
and,  save  in  some  strongly  garrisoned  places,  drove  the 
English  entirely  from  the  county.  The  Steward  of  Scot- 
land (afterwards  Robert  II. )  succeeded  Sir  Andrew  Moray 
in  the  command  and  direction  of  that  army  ;  and,  in  the 
year  of  his  accession  to  the  throne  (1371)  the  earldom  of 
Fife  was  resigned  by  the  Countess  Isabella,  last  of  the 
]\Iacdulf  Une,  to  his  third  son,  Robert,  Earl  of  Menteith, 
whose  brother  Walter  had  been  her  second  husband.  The 
new  Earl  of  Fife  was  created  Duke  of  Albany  in  1398, 
and  it  is  as  the  Regent  Albany  that  his  name  is  best 
known  in  history,  whilst  the  deed  whereby  that  name  is 
most  familiar  was  the  murder — if  murder  it  were — of  the 
Duke  of  Rothesay  at  Falkland  (1402),  which  figures  in 
Sir  Walter  Scott's  Fair  Maid  of  Perth. 

Andrew  Wood,  in  1480,  attacked  and  repulsed  a 
hostile  English  squadron,  which  appeared  in  the  Firth 
of  Forth  ;  and  he  received,  in  guerdon  of  his  services,  a 
royal  gi'ant  of  the  village  and  lands  of  Largo.  A  body 
of  13,000  infantry  and  1000  horse,  suddenly  leaded  in 
Fife  and  Forfarshire,  formed  part  of  the  Scottish  army, 
which,  in  1488,  fought  in  the  battle  of  Sauchieburn.  The 
Douglases,  in  1526,  after  defeating  their  opponents  at 
Linlithgow,  advanced  into  Fife,  and  pillaged  Dunferm- 
line Abbey  and  St  Andrews  Castle.  Fife  figures  pro- 
minently in  Scottish  Reformation  history.  At  St  An- 
drews were  burned  the  English  Wiclifite,  John  Resehy 
(1408),  the  German  Hussite,  Paul  Crawar  (1432),  and 
Scotland's  own  martyrs,  Patrick  Hamilton  (1528),  Henry 
Forrest  (1533),  and  George  Wishart  (1546).  Barely  two 
months  had  elapsed  ere  the  last  was  avenged  by  the 
murder  of  Cardinal  Beaton,  and  barely  thirteen  years 
ere,  in  the  summer  of  1559,  John  Knox's  'idolatrous 
sermon '  had  roused,  in  Tennant's  words — 
24 


HFE 

'  The  steir,  strabush,  and  strifc, 
\Vlian,  bickerin'  frae  the  towns  o'  Fife, 
Great  ban^g  o'  bodies,  thick  and  rife, 

Gaed  to  Sanct  Androis  town, 
And  wi'  John  Calviu  i'  their  heads. 
And  hammers  i'  their  hands  and  spades, 
Enraged  at  idols,  mass,  and  beads, 

Dang  the  Cathedral  down.' 

At  Crail  the  crusade  began,  and  from  Crail  the  preacher 
and  his  '  rascal  multitude '  passed  on  to  Anstruther,  Pit- 
tenweem,  St  Monance,  St  Andrews,  the  abbeys  of  Bal- 
merino  and  Lindores,  and  almost  every  other  edifice  in. 
the  county,  large  or  small,  that  seemed  a  prop  of  the 
Romish  religion.  Queen  Mary,  in  1563,  spent  nearly 
four  months  in  Fife,  moving  frequently  from  place  to 
place,  but  residing  chiefly  at  Falkland  and  St  Andrews, 
where  Chastelard  was  beheaded  for  having  burst  into  her 
chamber  at  Burntisland.  Next  year,  she  spent  some 
time  at  the  same  places ;  and  at  Wemtss  Castle  in  Feb. 
1565  she  first  met  her  cousin.  Lord  Darnley.  Donibristle, 
in  1592,  was  the  scene  of  the  murder  commemorated  in 
the  ballad  of  The  Bonnie  Earl  o'  Moray  ;  and  Falkland 
Palace,  in  1600,  was  the  scene  of  the  antecedent  of  the 
mysterious  affair  known  as  the  Gowrie  Conspiracy.  Fife 
suffered  more  injury  to  trade  than  most  other  districts  of 
Scotland,  from  the  removal  of  the  court  to  London,  at 
the  accession  of  James  "V^I.  to  the  crown  of  England  (1603). 
Its  enthusiasm  for  the  Covenant  was  great,  and  the  sea- 
ports put  themselves  in  a  state  of  defence  when,  on  1  Jlay 
1639,  the  Marquis  of  Hamilton  arrived  in  the  Firth  of 
Forth  with  19  Royalist  vessels  and  5000  well-armed  men, 
of  whom,  however,  only  200  knew  how  to  fire  a  musket. 
This  alarm  passed  off  with  the  pacification  of  Berwick  ; 
and  the  next  marked  episode  is  the  battle  of  Pitkeavie, 
fought  near  Inverkeithing  on  20  July  1651,  when  6000 
of  Cromwell's  troopers  defeated  4000  adherents  of  Charles 
IL,  killing  1600  and  taking  1200  prisoners.  Then  comes 
that  darkest  scene  in  aU  Fife's  history,  the  murder  by 
men  of  Fife  on  Magus  Muir  of  Archbishop  Sharp,  3  May 
1679,  so  strongly  illustrative  of  the  fanaticism,  the  super- 
stition, and  the  unwarlike  spirit  of  its  perpetrators.  The 
Revolution  (1688)  was  followed  by  a  long  and  severe 
famine,  a  great  depression  of  commerce,  and  an  exhaus- 
tion of  almost  every  resource  ;  the  Darien  scheme  (1695- 
99)  proved  more  disastrous  to  Fife  than  to  most  other 
parts  of  Scotland ;  at  the  Union  (1707)  legitimate  com- 
merce was  all  but  annihilated,  its  place  being  taken  by 
smuggling.  (See  Dysart.)  The  Earl  of  Mar  landed 
from  London  at  Elie  in  Aug.  1715,  the  month,  of  the 
famous  gathering  at  Braemar;  on  12  Oct.  Brigadier  Mac- 
intosh of  Borlum  succeeded  in  conveying  1600  Jacobites 
from  Fife  to  East  Lothian  over  the  Firth  of  Forth  ;  and 
about  the  same  time  the  Master  of  Sinclair,  proceeding 
fromPerth  through  Fife  with  400  horsemen,  surprised  two 
Government  vessels  at  Burntisland,  which  furnished  the 
rebels  with  420  stands  of  arms.  The  plundering  of  the 
custom-houseatPiTTENWEEM  by  Wilson,  Robertson,  and 
other  smugglers,  is  memorable  as  leading  to  the  Porteous 
Riot  at  Edinburgh  (1736).  Among  many  illustrious 
natives  are  Tennant  and Dr  Chalmers,  born  at  Anstruther; 
Lady  Ann  Barnard,  at  Balcarres  ;  Alexander  Hamilton, 
at  Creich  ;  Sir  David  Wilkie,  at  Cults ;  Lord  Chancellor 
Campbell,  at  Cupar ;  Charles  I.  and  Sir  Noel  Paton,  at 
Dunfermline ;  Richard  Cameron,  at  Falkland ;  Adam 
Smith,  at  Kirkcaldy  ;  Alexander  Selkirk,  at  Largo  ;  Sir 
David  Lindsay,  at  Monimail ;  Major  'Wh3rte  Melville,  at 
Mount  Melville,  near  St  Andrews  ;  and  Lady  Elizabeth 
Halket,  at  Pitreavie. 

A  characteristic  feature  of  Fife  is  its  large  number  of 
small  seaport  towns,  in  many  places  so  close  as  to  be 
practically  a  continuous  town.  Buchanan  used  the  ex- 
pression oppidulis  proecingitur  to  describe  it,  and  James 
"VI.  called  the  county  a  grey  cloth  mantle  with  a  golden 
fringe.  The  modern  demand  for  harbours  capable  of 
admitting  large  vessels  has  tended  to  concentrate  the 
shipping  of  Fife  at  Burntisland,  and  the  establishment 
of  large  factories  has  in  like  manner  concentrated  popula- 
tion in  such  places  as  Dunfermline  and  Kirkcaldy.  Thus, 
though  Fife  is  rich  and  fruitful  in  its  land,  and  has  many 
important  industries,  as  well  as  large  import  and  export 


FIFE-KEITH 

trades,  most  of  the  coast  towns  are  so  quiet  and  decayed 
as  to  give  the  casual  visitor  a  much  less  favourable  im- 
pression of  the  county  than  a  complete  examination 
affords. 

The  county  acquired  its  popular  name  of  the  '  Kingdom 
of  Fife,'  partly  from  its  great  extent  and  value,  and  partly 
from  its  forming  an  important  portion  of  the  Pictish 
dominion.  It  anciently,  as  we  have  seen,  was  much  more 
extensive  than  it  now  is,  comprehending  nearly  all  the 
region  between  the  Tay  and  the  Forth,  or  the  present 
counties  of  Fife,  Kinross,  and  Clackmannan,  the  detached 
or  Culross  district  of  Perthshire,  and  the  districts  of  Strath- 
earn  and  Monteith.  Dismemberments  of  it  were  made  at 
various  periods.  In  1426  the  county  of  Kinross  was  formed; 
other  changes  were  afterwards  made  to  form  the  stewartries 
of  Clackmannan  and  Culross  ;  and  in  1685  three  parishes 
were  cut  oS'  to  complete  the  present  county  of  Kinross. 
Numerous  ancient  hereditary  jurisdictious  existed  in 
the  county,  and,  in  common  with  similar  jurisdictions 
in  other  parts  of  Scotland,  were  abolished,  under  com- 
pensation, in  1747.  The  chief  of  these  were  that  of  the 
steward  of  the  stewartry  of  Fife,  for  which  the  Duke  of 
Athole  received  £1200  ;  that  of  the  bailie  of  the  regality 
of  Dunfermline,  for  which  the  Marquis  of  Tweeddale 
received  £2672,  7s.  ;  that  of  the  bailie  of  the  regality 
of  St  Andrews,  for  which  the  Earl  of  Crawford  received 
£.3000  ;  that  of  the  regality  of  Aberdour,  for  which  the 
Earl  of  Morton  received  £93,  2s.  ;  that  of  the  regality  of 
Pittenweem,  for  which  Sir  John  Anstruther  received 
£282,  15s.  3d. ;  that  of  the  regality  of  Lindores,  for 
which  Antonia  Barclay  of  CoUerny  received  £215  ;  and 
that  of  the  regality  of  Balmerino,  which  had  been  for- 
feited to  the  Crown  through  Lord  Balmerino's  participa- 
tion in  the  rebellion  of  1745,  and  so  was  not  valued. 

See  Sir  Robert  Sibbald's  History  of  Fife  (Edinb.  1710; 
new  ed.,  Cupar,  1803);  J.  M.  Leighton's  History  of  Fife 
(3  vols.,  Glasgow,  1840) ;  Thomas  Rodger's  Kingdom  of 
Fife  (2  vols.,  Cupar,  1861) ;  Walter  Wood's  East  Neuk 
of  Fife  (Edinb.  1S62);  M.  F.  Conolly's  Biographical 
Dictionary  of  Eminent  Men  of  Fife  (Cupar,  1862) ;  his 
Fifiana  (Cupar,  1869) ;  William  Ballingall's  Shores  of 
Fife  (Edinb.  1872) ;  James  W.  Taylor's  Historical  An- 
tiquities of  Fife  (2  vols.,  Edinb.,  1875)  ;  James  Mac- 
donald's  '  Agriculture  of  Fife,'  in  Trans.  Highl.  and  Ag. 
Soc.  (1876);T.  Hutchison's 'Kingdom  of  Fife, 'in  i^'roscr's 
Magazine  (1878) ;  besides  works  cited  under  IJalmekino, 

BUKNTISLAND,     CeLLARDTKE,     CrAIL,     DuNFERMLINE, 

Dura  Den,  Dysart,  Falkland,  Inchcolm,  Lindores, 
Isle  of  May,  and  St  Andrews. 

Fife-Keith.     See  Keith. 

Fife  Ness,  a  low  headland  in  CraU  parish,  Fife,  2  miles 
NE  of  Crail  town,  5  N  by  W  of  the  Isle  of  May,  and  16 
NNE  of  North  Berwick.  It  flanks  the  northern  side  of 
the  entrance  of  the  Firth  of  Forth,  is  the  most  easterly 
point  in  Fife,  and  terminates  the  tract  popularly  called 
the  East  Neuk  of  Fife.  It  has  traces  of  a  defensive  wall 
running  across  it,  and  said  to  have  been  constructed  by 
the  Danes  in  874  to  cover  an  invasive  debarkation  ;  and 
it  is  subtended  for  a  considerable  distance  seaward  by  a 
dangerous  reef,  noticed  in  our  article  on  Caer. — Ord. 
Sar.,  sh.  41,  1857. 

Fife  Railway,  West  of.  See  North  British  Railway. 

Fifeshire.     See  Fife. 

Figach.     See  Fiag. 

Figgate  Bum.     See  Duddingston. 

Figgate  Whins,  a  tract  of  land  in  Duddingston 
parish,  Edinburghshire,  traversed  aud  mainly  drained 
by  Figgate  Burn.  It  was  anciently  a  forest,  where  Sir 
William  Wallace  is  said  to  have  mustered  his  forces  for 
the  siege  of  Berwick,  and  Gibson  of  Dukie  to  have  been 
pounced  upon  by  Christy's  Will — this  latter  a  false  ver- 
sion of  the  story.  In  1762  it  was  sold  for  only  £1500  ; 
and  it  now  is  partly  the  site  of  the  widespread  watering- 
place  of  Portobello,  and  partly  the  fertile  tract  extending 
south-westward  thence  to  the  eastern  skirts  of  Arthur's 
Seat. 

File.     See  Benfile. 

Fillan,  a  stream  of  Killin  parish,  W  Perthshire,  rising, 
at  an  altitude  of  2980  feet,  on  the  northern  side  of  Ben- 
39 


FINCASTLE 

LOY  (3708  feet),  close  to  the  Argyllshire  border.  Thence 
it  winds  llj  miles  east-north-eastward  and  east-south- 
eastward, past  Dalree  and  Crianlarich,  along  a  glen  called 
from  it  Strathfillan,  till  it  falls  into  the  head  of  Loch 
Dochaet,  or  rather  expands  into  that  loch,  being  thus 
the  remotest  head-stream  of  the  river  Tay.  It  is  followed 
along  all  its  lower  course  by  tlie  Callander  and  Oban 
railway.  Within  J  mile  of  its  left  bank,  and  2J  miles 
SSE  of  Tyndrum,  stand  the  ruins  of  an  Austin  priory 
church,  dedicated  in  1314  to  St  Fillan  by  Robert  Bruce 
as  a  thauk-oft'ering  for  the  victory  of  Bannockburn.  The 
square-shaped  '  Bell  of  St  Fillan,'  of  cast  bronze,  with 
double-headed  dragonesque  liandle,  lay  on  a  gravestone 
here  till  1798,  when  it  was  stolen  by  an  English  traveller. 
In  1869  it  was  restored  to  Scotland,  and  now  is  deposited 
in  the  Edinburgh  Antiquarian  Museum,  where  also  now 
is  the  quigrach  or  silver  head  of  St  Fillan's  crozier,  car- 
ried to  Canada  in  1818,  and  returned  by  its  hereditary 
keeper,  Mr  Alex.  Dewar,  to  Scotland  in  1877.  This  bell 
used  to  be  rung  during  that  curious  superstitious  rite — 
a  kind  of  forerunner  of  the  Spiritualists'  rope-trick — ac- 
cording to  which  lunatics  were  brought  to  the  neighbour- 
ing '  Holy  Pool  of  Fillan,'  and  plunged  in  its  waters  just 
before  sunset,  then  bound  hand  and  foot,  and  left  all 
night  in  the  ruins  beside  what  was  known  as  '  St  Fillan's 
Tomb. '  If  in  the  morning  they  were  found  still  bound, 
the  case  was  abandoned  as  hopeless ;  but  if  the  knots 
were  untied,  it  was  deemed  the  merciful  work  of  the 
saint,  and  the  sufferers  were  quit  for  ever  of  their  malady. 
Of  St  Fillan  himself  very  little  is  known,  except  that  he 
belonged  to  the  close  of  the  5th  centuiy,  is  called  an  lohar 
('the  leper'),  was  a  disciple  of  Ailbe  in  Emly,  and  in 
the  Irish  calendar  is  said  to  have  been  of  Rath  Erenn  in 
Alban,  or  'the  fort  of  the  Earn  in  Scotland.'  Some 
hagiologists,  however,  maintain  that  this  leprous  saint 
of  Strathearn  was  distinct  from  him  of  Strathfillan,  whom 
they  assign  to  a  century  later. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  46, 1872. 

Fillans,  St,  a  village  in  Comrie  parish,  Perthshire, 
on  the  N  bank  of  the  river  Earn,  just  below  its  efflux  from 
Loch  Earn,  13  miles  W  by  N  of  Crieff,  under  which  it 
has  a  post  and  telegraph  office.  Both  as  to  situation  and 
structure  one  of  the  pleasantest  villages  in  Scotland,  it 
comprises  a  range  of  slated  one-story  houses,  mantled 
with  ivy  and  honeysuckle,  an  hotel,  called  the  Drummond 
Arms,  a  Free  church,  and  a  public  school.  On  a  green 
level  plain  here  the  St  Fillans  Highland  Society,  insti- 
tuted in  1819,  for  twelve  years  held  a  famous  annual 
meeting  for  athletic  sports.  Dundurn  and  the  conical 
hill  of  Dunfillan  have  been  separately  noticed. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  47,  1868. 

Finaglen  or  Finglen,  a  glen,  traversed  by  a  mountain 
burn,  in  Comrie  parish,  Perthshire,  descending  from 
Ben  Bhan,  1§  mile  north-north-eastward  to  Loch  Earn, 
at  a  point  2  miles  W  by  S  of  St  Fillans. 

Finart,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Row  parish, 
Dumbartonshire.  T'he  mansion,  standing  on  the  E  shore 
of  Loch  Long,  3  miles  N  of  Garelochhead,  is  the  seat  of 
Edward  Caird,  LL.  D. ,  professor  of  moral  philosophy  in 
Glasgow  University  since  1866.  It  has  finely  wooded 
grounds,  and  is  overhung  by  a  hill  and  mountain  that 
command  a  superb  view  of  Loch  Long.  Hill  and  moun- 
tain are  often  called  Finart,  but  really  consist  of,  first, 
Tom  Buidhe  (936  feet),  1  mile  NE  of  the  mansion,  and, 
next.  Ben  Mhanarch  (2328),  culminating  9  furlongs  ESE 
of  that  hill—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  38,  1871. 

Finart,  Argyllshire.     See  Glekfinart. 

Finavon.     See  Finhaven. 

Fincastle,  a  north-eastern  district  of  Dull  parish, 
Perthshire,  extending  3^  miles  along  the  N  bank  of  the 
Tummel  from  the  foot  of  Loch  Tummel  to  Bonskeid 
House,  and  IJ  mile  along  the  S  bank  of  the  Garry  from 
Blair  Athole  village  to  Auldclune.  Fincastle  Burn  flows 
through  the  midst  to  the  Tummel,  along  a  fertile  narrow 
strath,  and  near  its  left  bank  stands  Fincastle  House,  the 
seat  and  death-place  of  Sir  Robert  Gilmour  Colquhoun, 
K.C.B.  (1803-70),  who  for  seven  years  served  as  Consul- 
General  in  Egypt.  The  district  takes  its  name  from 
having  anciently  contained  no  fewer  than  fifteen  castles, 
vestiges  of  a  number  of  which  may  still  be  seen  ;  and  it 

25 


FINDHORN 

gives  the  title  of  Viscount  to  the  Earl  of  Dttnmoee. 
It  has  a  post  office  under  Pitlochry,  6  miles  to  the  SE. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  55,  1869. 

Findhom,  a  seaport  village  in  Kinloss  parish,  KW 
Elginshire,  at  the  right  side  of  the  mouth  of  Findhorn 
river,  and  on  the  point  of  a  peniusula  between  Find- 
horn  and  Burghead  Bays.  By  road  it  is  5  miles  N 
of  Forres  and  %\  NE  of  Kinloss  station  on  the  Highland 
railway,  this  station  heing  9J  miles  W  by  S  of  Elgin 
and  27|  ENE  of  Inverness.  A  branch  line  from  Kin- 
loss to  Findhorn,  opened  in  1860,  has  now  for  some 
years  been  discontinued.  The  original  town,  which 
stood  at  least  2  miles  westward  of  the  present  one,  was 
destroyed  by  the  drifting  of  the  Culbin  Sands ;  the 
next  one  stood  a  mile  NW,  on  ground  now  covered  by 
the  sea,  and  was  swallowed  in  a  few  hours  by  the 
great  inundation  of  1701  ;  and  even  the  present  town 
is  so  beset  with  surge-lashed  sand-banks,  that  it,  too, 
possibly  may  some  day  share  their  fate.  A  place  of 
worship  in  it,  used  iirst  as  a  dissenting  meeting-house, 
and  next  as  a  chapel  of  ease,  was  built  on  the  sand,  and 
fell  in  Jan.  1843.  The  town,  from  its  situation  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Findhorn,  known  in  Gaelic  as  the  Erne, 
is  commonly  called  by  the  Highlanders  Inverenw,  It 
ranks  as  a  burgh  of  barony ;  is  the  centre  of  an  extensive 
fishery  district  between  Buckie  and  Cromarty  ;  and 
carries  on  some  commerce'in  the  export  of  salmon,  grain, 
and  other  goods,  and  in  the  import  of  coals,  groceries, 
and  manufactured  wares.  It  has  a  post  office  under 
Forres,  a  good  harbour,  a  Free  church,  a  girls'  public 
school,  and  a  public  library.  The  harbour  is  partly 
natural,  partly  artificial,  with  a  stone  pier,  two  quays 
of  hewn  stone,  and  a  breastwork  connecting  the  pier 
with  one  of  the  quays  ;  and  has,  in  the  shallowest  part 
of  the  channel  at  its  entrance,  lOi  feet  of  water  in  the 
lowest  neap  tide,  and  from  13  to  17  feet  in  spring  tides. 
In  1881,  the  number  of  boats  employed  in  the  district 
was  470,  of  fishermen  and  boys  2063,  of  fish-curers  49, 
and  of  coopers  54 ;  the  value  of  the  boats  being  £29,423, 
of  the  nets  £41,827,  and  of  the  lines  £4909.  The  follow- 
ing is  the  number  of  barrels  of  herrings  salted  or  cured 
in  difi'erent  years  :— (1866)  29,572,  (1870)  16,311,  (1878) 
2389,  (1879)  9443,  (1880)  16,255,  (1881)  9753  ;  of  cod, 
ling,  or  hake  taken  (1866)  20,779,  (1873)  67,837,  (1879) 
56,191,  (1880)  34,265,  (1881)  15,255.  Pop.  (1841)  806, 
(1861)  891,  (1871)  701,  (1881)  605.— OrcZ.  Sur.,  sh.  94, 
1878. 

Findhorn,  a  river  of  Inverness,  Nairn,  and  Elgin  shires, 
rising  in  the  southern  exti-emity  of  Moy  and  Dalarossie 
parish,  among  the  Monadhliath  Mountains,  5J  miles  N 
by  W  of  Laggan  Bridge,  and  thence  muding  62|  miles 
north-eastward,  till  it  falls  into  the  Moray  Firth  at 
Findhorn  village.  In  the  first  7^  mUes  of  its  course  it 
bears  the  name  of  Abhainn  Cro  Chlach  ('  stream  of  the 
stone  fold ') ;  and  a  13th  century  charter  alluctes  to  it 
as  the  Earn,  so  that  Findhorn  is  possibly  a  corruption 
oi  fionn-ear-an,  '  wan  east-flowing  river,'  the  greater  part 
of  its  basin  being  still  known  as  Strathdearn.  It  is 
joined  by  the  Eskin,  Moy  Burn,  the  Divie,  Muckle 
Burn,  and  numerous  mountain  toiTents ;  it  expands, 
between  Forres  and  Findhorn  village,  into  a  triangular 
tidal  lagoon,  2  miles  long  and  2|  wide,  called  Findhorn 
Bay  or  Harbour,  and  again  contracts  to  2J  furlongs  at 
its  mouth.  Its  scenery,  alpine  at  first,  then  moderately 
mountainous,  and  finally  lowland,  exhibits  almost  every 
variety  of  picturesqueness,  from  the  wildly  grand  to 
the  softly  beautiful,  abounding  in  features  of  wood  and 
rock,  gorge  and  cliff,  fertile  valley  and  finely-contoured 
hUl,  and  is  not  excelled,  either  in  diversity  of  attraction 
or  in  aggregate  richness,  by  the  scenery  of  any  equal 
length  of  stream  in  Scotland.  From  2800  feet  above 
sea-level  at  its  mossy  source,  it  descends  to  1627  at  the 
Eskin's  confluence,  950  at  Findhorn  Bridge,  580  at  the 
Bridge  of  Dulsie,  and  280  near  Relugas  House  ;  and 
thus  its  current  is  impetuous  in  the  upper,  swift  in  the 
middle,  and  broad  and  placid  in  the  lower  reaches.  Its 
volume  varies  greatly  in  time  of  drought  and  in  time  of 
heavy  rain  ;  and  it  is  subject  to  such  strong,  sudden 
freshets  as  sometimes  to  roll  down  a  waU-Hke  wave  of 
26 


FINDEASSIE 

water  with  irresistible  and  destructive  force  along  the 
narrow  or  contracted  parts  of  its  bed,  and  to  overflow 
its  banks  and  make  a  lake  of  all  the  lowland  portions  of 
its  valley.  In  the  Plain  of  Forres,  over  20  square  miles 
were  so  inundated  by  it  in  the  memorable  floods  of 
Aug.  1829,  that  a  large  boat,  in  full  sail,  swept  along 
its  basin  to  within  a  few  yards  of  the  town.  The  Find- 
horn is  still  a  fine  salmon  and  trout  river,  though  not 
what  it  was  half  a  century  since,  when  in  a  single  day 
360  salmon  were  taken  from  one  pool.  It  traverses  or 
bounds  the  parishes  of  Moy  and  Dalarossie,  Cawdoi, 
Ardclach,  Edinkillie,  Forres,  Dyke  and  Moy,  and  Kin- 
loss ;  and  in  our  articles  on  these,  its  various  features 
of  bridge,  mansion,  village,  and  town  are  noticed. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  73,  74,  84,  94,  1876-78.  See  chaps, 
ii.-x.  of  Sir  Thomas  Dick  Lauder's  Moray  Floods  (Elgin, 
1830  ;  3d  ed.  1873). 

Findlater,  an  estate  on  the  coast  of  Fordyce  parish, 
Banffshire.  It  formerlj'  belonged  to  the  Ogilvies  of 
Deskford,  and  gave  them  the  title  of  earl  from  1638  till 
1811.  That  title  expired  at  the  death  of  the  seventh 
Earl  of  Findlater  and  fourth  of  Seafield,  who  was  suc- 
ceeded in  his  estates  and  in  the  earldom  of  Seafield  by 
his  cousin.  Findlater  Castle  stood  on  a  peniusulated 
rock  overhanging  the  sea,  2  miles  E  of  Cullen,  and  4 
"W  by  N  of  Portsoy,  and,  with  permission  of  the  Crown, 
was  fortified  in  1445  by  Sir  Walter  Ogilvie,  knight,  of 
Auchleven.  It  was  one  of  the  places  which  refused  to 
receive  Queen  Mary  on  her  visit  to  the  North  (1562),  and 
is  now  a  curious  picturesque  ruin.  See  Cullen.  — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  96,  1876. 

Findochty,  a  fishing-village  in  Rathven  parish,  Banff- 
shire, 3|  miles  W  by  N  of  Cullen.  Founded  in  1716 
by  a  colony  of  fishermen  from  Fraserburgh,  it  has  an 
infant  public  school,  141  boats,  and  300  men  and  boys 
engaged  in  fishing.  Its  sheltered  harbour,  with  24  feet 
depth  of  water,  and  270  feet  of  width  at  the  entrance,  was 
greatly  improved  by  the  Fishery  Commissioners  in  1882- 
83.  Near  it  is  a  medicinal  spring  situated  within  high 
water  mark.  Pop.  (1861)  393,  (1871)  812,  (1881)  936.— 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  96,  1876. 

Findogask.     See  Gask. 

Findon,  an  estate  inUrquhart  and Logie-Wester  parish, 
Ross-shire,  on  the  SE  shore  of  Cromarty  Firth,  5  mUes 
NE  of  Conan  Bridge.  Traversed  by  a  bmm  of  its  own 
name,  that  makes  a  fine  cascade  of  20  feet  in  a  yawning 
bosky  gorge,  it  belongs  to  Mackenzie  of  Mountgeeald, 
and  by  improvements  in  the  way  of  draining,  fencing, 
and  building,  had  its  rental  raised  from  £3774  in  1867 
to  £4624  in  1876. 

Findon,  a  farm  in  Gamrie  parish,  NE  Banffshire,  5  fur- 
longs S  by  W  of  Gardenstown.  Its  rocks  are  famous  for 
great  abundance  and  variety  of  fossil  fish,  ganoids  chiefly, 
many  of  which  were  figured  and  described  by  Agassiz. 

Findon  or  Finnan,  a  fishing -village  in  Banchory- 
Devenick  parish,  Kincardineshire,  IJ  mile  NE  of  Port- 
lethen  station,  this  being  8  miles  S  by  W  of  Aberdeen. 
It  is  a  little  place,  of  no  more  consequence  than  other 
fishing  villages  on  the  E  coast ;  but  it  has  gained 
celebrity  for  having  been  the  first  place  to  prepare  the 
dried  fish,  called  from  it  Findon  or  Finnan  haddocks. 
Its  boats  number  30,  its  fishermen  96  ;  and  there  is  a 
public  school  Pop.  (1861)  190,  (1871)  Z30.—Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  67,  1871. 

Findrack,  an  estate,  with  an  old  mansion,  in  Lum- 
phanan  parish,  Aberdeenshire,  2J  miles  ENE  of  Lum- 
plianau  station.  It  was  sold  in  1670  by  Sir  Robert 
Forbes  of  Learney  to  the  Erasers ;  and  its  present 
owner,  Francis  Garden  Fraser  (b.  1815 ;  sue.  1824), 
holds  1600  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £895  per  annum. 

Findrassie,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Spynie 
parish,  Elginshire,  2J  miles  NW  of  Elgin.  It  belonged, 
from  the  first  half  of  the  16th  century,  to  a  branch  of 
the  Leslies,  descended  from  Robert,  youngest  son  of  the 
third  Earl  of  Rothes  ;  but,  sold  in  1825  by  Sir  Charles 
Leslie,  fifth  Bart,  since  1625,  it  now  is  the  seat  of  Mrs  U 
Forster,  only  daughter  and  heiress  of  the  late  James  ■ 
Ogilvie  Tod,  Esq.  (d.  1837),  who  holds  690  acres  in  " 
the  shire,  valued  at  £602  per  annum. 


FINE 


FINHAVEN 


Fine.     See  Fyne. 

Finella.     See  Fenella. 

Finfan,  a  farm  in  Urquhart  parish,  NE  Elginsliire,  li 
mile  WSW  oF  Garraoutli.  It  has  a  mineral  well,  of 
similar  quality  to  Strathpeffer  spa,  and  a  neat  cottage 
was  built  at  it  by  General  Sir  James  Duff  for  supplying 
the  water  to  occasional  visitors. 

Fingal's  Cave.     See  St.4.ffa. 

Fingal's  Fort.     See  Dun  Fionn  and  Knockfin. 

Fingal's  Griddle,  an  ancient  Caledonian  monument 
in  Ardnamurchan  parish,  Argj'llshire.  It  is  situated 
on  Ormsaigmore,  and  consists  of  large  stones  in  the 
torm  of  a  rude  altar,  surrounded  by  remains  of  a  circle 
of  smaller  stones. 

Fingal's  Oak,  a  famous  old  tree  in  Ardchattan  parish, 
Argyllshire,  near  Barealdine  House.  It  girthed  29  feet 
(only  half  its  original  size)  in  1835,  and  continued  so  to 
decay  and  crumble,  that  in  18-44  it  measured  but  23  feet 
in  girth. 

Fingal's  Seat.    See  AiT-SniDBE-TnuiN. 

Fingal's  Stair.     See  Beseaddan. 

Fingask,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion  of  1834,  in  Daviot 
parish,  Aberdeenshire,  2  miles  W  of  Old  Meldrum.  A 
small  enclosure  on  the  estate  is  thought  to  have  com- 
prised a  pre  -  Reformation  chapel.  Its  owner,  John 
Mauson,  Esq.,  holds  585  acres,  valued  at  £860  per 
annum. 

Fingask  or  Marlee,  a  loch  in  the  S  of  Blairgowrie 
parish,  NE  Perthshire.  Lying  139  feet  above  sea-level, 
it  has  an  utmost  length  and  breadth  of  3  and  2  furlongs, 
is  connected  by  rivulets  with  Black  and  "White  Lochs  of 
similar  extent,  and  sends  oflf  a  stream  J  mile  south- 
south-westward  to  Lunan  Burn.  It  is  notable  for  hav- 
ing furnished  from  its  bed  great  quantities  of  mauurial 
clay  or  marl.— Ort?.  Sur.,  sh.  48,  1868. 

Fingask  Castle,  a  fine  old  mansion  in  Kilspindie 
parish,  Perthshire,  3^  miles  NNW  of  Errol  station.  It 
stands  on  the  W  side  of  a  wooded  glen,  200  feet  above 
the  Carse  of  Gowrie,  and  by  Dr  Chambers  is  described  as 
an  irregular  but  picturesque  structure,  comprising  a  tall 
front  tower  of  1594  ;  a  still  older  central  portion  ;  an 
addition  of  about  1675,  with  pepper-bos  turrets  at  the 
angles ;  and  a  modern  dining-room,  conservatory,  etc. 
On  one  side  is  a  winding  avenue  of  pines  and  sycamores  ; 
on  the  other  a  beautiful  garden,  with  a  terrace  beyond, 
that  commands  a  magnificent  view  of  the  Firth  of  Tay, 
the  Sidlaws,  and  the  Grampians.  Within  are  portraits 
of  the  Old  Chevalier,  Clementina  his  wife.  Prince  Charles 
Edward,  his  brother  Henry,  Cardinal  of  York,  the  poet 
William  Hamilton  of  Bangour,  and  many  members  of  the 
Threipland  family,  which  seems  to  have  migrated  from 
Thriepland  in  Kilbucho  parish,  Peeblesshire,  about  the 
beginning  of  the  17th  century,  and  which  in  1672 
bought  Fingask  from  a  cadet  of  the  Bruces  of  Clack- 
mannan, two  years  later  adding  thereto  the  adjacent 
estate  of  Kinnaied.  Patrick  Threipland,  becoming 
provost  of  Perth  in  1665,  was  knighted  in  1674  for 
diligence  in  suppression  of  conventicles,  was  made  6 
baronet  of  Nova  Scotia  in  1687,  and  in  1689  died  a 
prisoner  in  Stirling  Castle.  His  son,  Sir  David  (1666- 
1746),  in  1715  was  one  of  the  first  to  join  the  standard 
of  the  Earl  of  Mar,  with  his  eldest  son  and  namesake. 
The  latter  was  captured  whilst  crossing  the  Firth  of 
Forth  under  Macintosh  of  Borlum,  but  effected  a  daring 
escape  from  Edinburgh  Castle.  The  Old  Chevalier 
passed  the  night  of  7  Jan.  1716  in  the  'State-room'  of 
Fingask,  and  was  again  there  in  the  following  month ; 
in  March  Sir  David  was  a  fugitive,  and  his  castle  was 
occupied  by  a  party  of  Government  dragoons.  The 
forfeited  estate,  however,  was  leased  by  Lady  Threipland 
from  the  York  Building  Company,  who  had  bought  it 
for  £9606.  In  the  '45  the  eldest  son,  David,  fell  at 
Prestonpans ;  but  the  youngest,  Stuart  (1716-1805), 
went  through  the  entire  campaign,  for  some  time  shared 
in  the  Prince's  wanderings,  and  at  length  escaped  to 
France,  disguised  as  a  bookseller's  assistant,  Fingask 
meantime  having  been  plundered  by  dragoons.  Return- 
ing in  1747,  he  set  up  as  a  physician  in  Edinburgh,  and 
in  1783  bought  back  the  estate  for  £12,207,  whilst  to 


his  son,  Patrick  (1762-1837),  the  baronetcy  was  restored 
in  1826.  His  son,  the  fifth  baronet.  Sir  Patrick -Murray 
Threipland  (1800-82),  dying  without  issue,  was  succeeded 
by  his  cousin,  William,  second  son  (b.  1867)  of  William 
Scott  Kerr,  Esq.  of  Chatto  and  Sunlaws,  Ro.xburgh- 
sliire,  who  holds  2814  acres  in  Perthshire,  valued  at 
£3019  per  annum,  besides  the  estate  of  Toftixgall  in 
Caithness,  and  who  has  assumed  the  name  of  Murray 
Threipland  in  accordance  with  the  last  baronet's  will. 
—0)-d.  Sur.,  sh.  48,  1868.  See  Robert  Chambers, 
LL.D.,  The  Threqilands  of  Fin  gas!;  (Edinb.  1880). 

Fingland,  a  burn  in  Traquair  parish,  Peeblesshire, 
rising  just  within  Yarrow  parish,  Selkirkshire,  at  an 
altitude  of  1300  feet,  and  fiowing  4i  miles  north-by- 
westward  till  it  falls  into  Quair  Water  a  little  above 
Traquair  village. 

Fingland,  a  burn  in  Eskdalemuir  parish,  NE  Dumfries- 
shire, running  to  the  White  Esk  at  a  point  J  mile  NNE 
of  Davington  Free  church.  A  cascade  on  it,  called 
Wellsburnspout,  makes  a  leap  of  56  feet,  and  shows  pic- 
turesquely in  times  of  heavy  rain. 

Fin  Glen,  a  glen  in  the  W  of  Carapsie  parish,  Stirling- 
shire, traversed  by  a  burn  which,  rising  in  the  S  of 
Killearn  parish,  on  the  NE  shoulder  of  Earl's  Seat  (1894 
feet),  runs  4J  miles  south-south-eastward,  till,  near 
Campsie  Glen  station,  it  unites  with  the  Pow  and  Kirk- 
ton  Burns  to  form  the  Glazert.  Though  somewhat  less 
picturesque  than  Kirkton  Glen,  Fin  Glen  has  a  larger 
volume  of  water  and  two  very  beautiful  waterfalls ;  whilst, 
like  Kirkton  Glen,  it  presents  features  of  gorge,  crag,  and 
wood  somewhat  similar  to  those  of  the  Trossachs. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  31,  1866. 

Finglen,  Perthshire.     See  Fikaglen. 

Finhaven  (auc.  Fot7mcvyn  =  Gael.  fodha-fainn,  'place 
under  a  hill '),  a  ruined  castle  in  Oathlaw  parish,  Forfar- 
shire, on  a  rising-ground  at  the  influx  of  Lemno  Burn  to 
the  South  Esk,  5J  miles  NNE  of  Forfar  and  8  WSW  of 
Brechin.  A  stately  five-storied  tower,  86  feet  high,  larger 
but  plainer  than  Edzell,  it  dates  in  its  present  condition 
from  the  latter  half  of  the  16th  century.  '  The  N  wall  is 
yet  entire,  but  the  S  one  is  rent  through  two-thirds  of 
the  length  of  the  building,  and  on  some  frosty  morning 
at  no  distant  date  will  inevitably  crumble  to  pieces.' 
According  to  Thomas  the  Rhymer's  prediction  : 

*  When  Finhaven  Castle  rins  to  sand. 
The  warld's  end  is  near  at  hand.' 

The  ruin  is  a  very  storehouse  of  strange  memories. 
Hither  David,  thir'd  Earl  of  Crawford,  and  his  foeman 
but  brother-in-law,  Ogilvy  of  Inverquharity,  were 
brought,  sore  wounded,  from  the  battle  of  Aeekoath 
(1446).  The  Earl  died  after  a  week  of  lingering  torture ; 
and  scarce  was  he  dead,  when  the  Countess  hurried  to 
Inverquhaiity's  chamber,  and  smothered  him  with  a 
pillow,  thus  avenging  her  husband  by  murdering  her 
own  brother.  '  Earl  Beardie  '  or  '  the  Tiger '  Earl  of 
Crawford  fled  to  Finhaven  from  the  rout  of  Beeohin 
(1452),  and,  on  alighting  from  his  horse,  exclaimed  that 
gladly  would  he  pass  seven  years  in  hell  to  gain  the 
honour  of  Huntly's  victory.  Eleven  months  later  he 
was  pardoned  by  James  II.,  who  here  received  a  sump- 
tuous entertainment ;  but  the  King,  having  sworn  in 
his  ivrath  '  to  make  the  highest  stone  of  Finhaven  the 
lowest,'  must  needs,  to  keep  his  word,  go  up  to  the  roof 
of  the  castle  and  thence  throw  down  a  stone  that  was 
lying  loose  on  the  battlements.  On  the  Covin  Tree  of 
Finhaven,  grown  from  a  chestnut  dropped  by  a  Roman 
soldier.  Earl  Beardie  hanged  Jock  Barefoot,  the  Careston 
gDlie  who  had  dared  to  cut  a  walking-stick  therefrom, 
and  whose  ghost  oft  scares  the  belated  wayfarer.  The 
Covin  Tree  was  levelled  to  the  ground  in  1760  ;  but,  in 
the  secret  chamber  of  Glamis,  Earl  Beardie  still  drees 
his  weird,  to  play  at  cards  until  the  clap  of  doom.  In 
1530  David,  eighth  Earl,  was  for  thirteen  weeks 
imprisoned  in  the  dungeons  of  Finhaven  by  his  son,  the 
Wicked  Master,  who  eleven  years  after  was  stabbed  by  a 
Dundee  cobbler  for  taking  from  him  a  stoup  of  drink. 
David,  tenth  Earl,  in  1546  married  Margaret,  daughter 
of  Cardinal  Beaton.     The  nuptials  were  solemnised  at 

27 


FINK,  ST 

Finhaven  with  great  magnificence,  in  presence  of  the 
Cardinal,  who  that  same  month  was  murdered  at  St 
Andrews.  Held  by  the  Lindsays  since  1375,  the  estate 
was  sold  in  1629  by  the  fourteenth  Earl  of  Crawford  to 
his  cousin.  Lord  Spynie.  Later  it  was  owned  by  the 
Carnegies,  till  in  1775  it  was  sold  for  £19,500  to  the 
Earl  of  Aboyne.  It  was  sold  again  in  1805  for  £45,000 
to  a  Mr  Ford,  and  was  re-sold  in  1815  for  £65,000  to  a 
subsequent  Earl  of  Aboyne,  belonging  now  to  that 
Earl's  representative,  the  Marquis  of  Huntly.  Wooded 
Finhaven  Hill  extends  along  all  the  south-eastern  border 
of  Oathlaw  parish,  and  some  way  into  Aberlemno.  Cul- 
minating at  a  height  of  751  feet  above  sea-level,  it  com- 
mands a  beautiful  view  of  Strathmore,  and  is  crowned, 
on  its  north-eastern  shoulder,  with  a  vitrified  fort,  in  the 
form  nearly  of  a  parallelogram  380  feet  long  and  112  at 
the  broadest.  Anciently  there  was  a  parish  of  Finhaven, 
divided  now  between  Oathlaw  and  Aberlemno  ;  and  well 
on  into  the  present  century  the  former  parish  was  oftener 
called  Finhaven  than  Oathlaw.  The  church,  standing 
1  mile  E  of  the  castle,  was  built  in  1380,  and  fell  into 
disuse  about  the  beginning  of  the  17th  century.  In  its 
side  aisle,  however,  the  thirteenth  Earl  of  Crawford  was 
buried  as  late  as  1622,  and  this  aisle  was  left  standing  till 
1815.  In  1849  the  ancient  encaustic  pavement  of  the 
church  was  laid  bare,  and  two  monuments  were  found  at  a 
considerable  depth,  one  being  of  a  robed  ecclesiastic. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  57,  1868.  See  chap.  iv.  of  Andrew 
Jervise's  Land  of  the  Lindsays  (Edinb.  1853). 

Fink,  St,  a  hamlet  and  an  ancient  chapelry  in  Bendochy 
parish,  Perthshire,  2|  mQes  NE  of  Blairgowi'ie.  The 
chapelry  included  the  tract  above  the  confluence  of  the 
Ericht  and  the  Isla. 

Finlagan,  a  hill-girt  loch  in  Killarrow  and  Kilmeny 
parish.  Isle  of  Islay,  Argyllshire,  4J  miles  W  by  N  of 
Port  Astaig.  Measuring  1  by  J  mile,  it  sends  off  a 
rivulet  of  its  own  name  to  salt-water  Loch  Gruinard, 
and  abounds  with  trout  and  salmon,  the  former  averaging 
J  lb.  each.  An  islet  in  it  is  crowned  by  the  ruins  of  the 
castle  and  chapel  of  the  Macdonalds,  Lords  of  the  Isles ; 
and  on  its  shore  are  traces  of  a  pier  for  communicating 
with  the  castle. 

Finlarig,  a  picturesque  ruined  castle  in  Killin  parish, 
Perthshire,  at  the  head  of  Loch  Tay,  Ih  mile  N  by  E  of 
Killin  village.  An  ancient  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Breadal- 
bane's  ancestors,  it  figures  in  Sir  Walter  Scott's  Fair 
Maid  of  Perth  as  the  death-place  of  the  chief  of  the  clan 
Quhele,  and  is  a  narrow  three-story  ivy-clad  pile,  with  a 
square  tower  at  one  corner.  Adjoining  it  is  the  burying- 
vault  of  the  Breadalbane  family ;  and  around  is  an  un- 
dulating park  with  grand  old  trees.  The  scene  of  a 
sanguinary  fight  between  the  Campbells  and  the  Mac- 
donalds is  in  its  neighbourhood.  —Ord.  Sur. ,  sh.  46, 1872. 

Finlas,  a  lake  in  Straiten  parish,  Ayrshire,  5  miles  S 
by  W  of  Dalmellington.  Lying  840  feet  above  sea-level, 
it  extends  IJ  mile  from  NW  to  SE,  has  a  varying  width 
of  J  furlong  and  2  j  furlongs,  is  fed  from  Loch  Derclach 
at  its  head,  and  from  its  foot  sends  off  Carpel  Burn  1^ 
mile  north-eastward  to  Loch  Doon.  Boats  are  kept  on 
it,  and  the  trout  fishing  is  good. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  8,  1863. 

Finlas,  a  streamlet  in  Luss  parish,  Dumbartonshire, 
rising  at  an  altitude  of  1800  feet,  and  running  4f  miles 
south-eastward  along  an  alpine  glen,  called  from  it 
Glenfinlas,  and  eastward  and  north-by-eastward  through 
low,  rich,  wooded  grounds,  till  it  falls  into  a  baylet  of 
Loch  Lomond  3  furlongs  SW  of  Eossdhu  House. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh,  38,  1871. 

Finlay's  Castle.     See  Nairx. 

Finlay's  Mire.     See  Moxquhittee. 

Finlayston  House,  a  mansion  in  the  NW  corner  of 
Kilmalcolm  parish,  Renfrewshire,  near  the  S  shore  of 
the  Clyde,  IJ  mile  W  by  N  of  Langbank  station,  and 
3  miles  E  by  S  of  Port  Glasgow.  Partly  an  edifice  of 
the  latter  half  of  the  15th  century,  it  was  long  a  resi- 
dence of  the  Earls  of  Glencairn  ;  and,  under  the  fifth  or 
'  Good '  Earl,  was  the  scene  of  a  notable  celebration  of 
the  Lord's  Supper  by  John  Knox  (1556).  It  is  also 
associated  with  the  name  of  Alexander  Montgomery,  a 
poet  who  flourished  in  the  time  of  James  VI. ,  and  wrote 
28 


FINSTOWN 

The  Cherrie  and  the  Slae ;  and  it  commands  a  brilliant 
view  across  and  along  the  Clyde. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  30, 
1866. 

Finnan,  a  stream  in  the  Inverness-shire  section  of 
Ardnamurchan  parish,  rising  at  an  altitude  of  1586  feet 
above  sea-level,  close  to  the  Kilmallie  border,  and  thence 
running  5J  miles  south-south-westward  to  the  head  of 
Loch  Shiel,  along  a  narrow  rocky  mountain  glen,  called 
from  it  Glenfinnan.  The  glen,  toward  the  mouth  of 
the  stream,  opens  in  four  directions,  somewhat  in  the 
manner  of  four  divergent  streets;  and,  terminating  at 
the  head  of  the  loch  in  a  small  plain,  is  crossed  there  by 
a  road  leading  35  miles  westward  from  Banavie,  up  Loch 
Eil,  to  Arasaig.  This  was  the  scene  of  the  unfurling  of 
Prince  Charles  Edward's  banner  at  the  commencement 
of  the  Rebellion  of  1745,  an  event  sung  finely  by  Pro- 
fessor Aytoun  in  his  Lays  of  the  Cavaliers.  '  The  spot,' 
says  Hill  Burton,  '  adopted  for  the  gathering  was  easily 
accessible  to  all  the  garrisons  of  the  Highland  forts.  It 
was  only  18  miles  distant  from  Fort  William,  and  almost 
visible  from  the  ramparts ;  but  when  a  general  gathering 
in  force  was  intended,  the  presence  of  the  forts — well 
adapted  as  they  were  to  keep  down  petty  attempts — was 
no  impediment  to  it.  The  19th  of  August  was  the  day 
fixed  for  the  momentous  ceremony ;  but  the  Prince's 
faith  in  his  destiny  was  again  tried,  for,  when  he  arrived, 
the  glen  was  silent  and  deserted,  save  by  the  ragged 
children  of  the  hamlet,  who  glared  with  wondering  eyes 
on  the  mysterious  strangers.  After  two  hours  thus 
spent,  the  welcome  sound  of  a  distant  bagpipe  was 
heard,  and  the  Camerons,  between  seven  and  eight  hun- 
dred strong,  appeared  on  the  sky-line  of  the  hill.  Before 
the  group  dispersed  in  the  evening,  the  number  assembled 
amounted  to  1500  men.  The  post  of  honour  on  the 
occasion  was  given  to  the  old  Marquis  of  Tullibardine, 
heir  to  the  dukedom  of  Athole,  who,  like  his  young 
master,  had  come  to  "  regain  his  own." '  Prince  Charles's 
Monument  here,  a  tower  with  a  Gaelic,  Latin,  and 
English  inscription,  was  founded  in  1815  by  Alex.  Mac- 
donald  of  Glenaladale,  whose  namesake  lodged  the  Prince 
on  the  night  preceding  the  Gathering,  and  whose  de- 
scendant, John  Andrew  Macdonald,  Esq.  of  Glenaladale 
(b.  1837  ;  sue.  1870),  has  his  seat  at  Glenfinnan,  holding 
24,000  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1550  per  annum. 
Glenfinnan  has  also  a  post  office  under  Fort  William,  an 
inn,  a  public  school,  with  accommodation  for  33  children, 
and  the  Roman  Catholic  church  of  SS.  Mary  and  Finnan, 
an  Early  English  edifice  of  1873.  St  Finnan's  green 
islet,  at  the  head  of  Loch  Shiel,  has  been  the  burial  place 
of  the  Macdonalds  since  their  first  settlement  in  these 
lonely  glens  ;  and  a  square  bronze  bell — one  of  three  to 
be  found  in  Scotland,  and  as  old,  it  may  be,  as  Columba's 
day — still  rests  on  the  altar  slab  of  its  ruined  chapel. 
See  Shiel,  Loch.— Ord  Sur.,  sh.  62,  1875. 

Finnan,  Kincardineshire.     See  Findon. 

Finnart,  a  shooting-lodge  in  Fortingal  parish,  NW 
Perthshire,  on  the  S  shore  of  Loch  Eannoch,  just  below 
its  head,  10  miles  W  by  S  of  Kinloch  Eannoch.  On  the 
shootings,  which  form  part  of  the  Struan  Eobei'tson 
property,  there  were  killed  between  12  Aug.  and  8  Oct. 
1881  no  fewer  than  3002  head  of  game,  including  2253 
grouse  and  671  blue  hares.  A  little  SW  of  the  lodge  is 
an  Established  mission  chapel. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  54,  1873. 

Finnart,  Dumbartonshire.     See  Finart. 

Fionich  or  Camock  Bum.    See  Caenock. 

Finnleston.    See  Glasgow. 

Finny.     See  Vbnnt. 

Finnyfold  or  Whinnyfold,  a  fishing  hamlet  in  the  S 
of  Cruden  parish,  Aberdeenshire,  2J  miles  SSE  of  the 
church.  The  rocks  in  its  vicinity  exhibit  transition 
from  gneiss  to  granite,  and  form  a  good  study  for  geolo- 
gists. 

Finstown,  a  village  in  Firth  and  Stenness  parish,  Ork- 
ney, at  the  head  of  Firth  Bay,  6  miles  WNW  of  Kirkwall. 
It  has  a  post  oflice,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank, 
and  telegraph  departments ;  horse  and  cattle  fairs  on  the 
third  Monday  of  every  month  ;  and  a  recently  erected 
pier,  500  feet  long,  where  an  extensive  trade  is  carried  on 
in  coal,  lime,  manures,  grain,  etc.     Pop.  (1881)  160. 


FINTRAT 

Fintray,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  SE  Aberdeenshire. 
The  village,  Hatton  of  Fintray,  stands  within  3  furlongs 
of  the  Don's  left  bank,  3J  miles  E  by  N  of  Kintore,  and 
IJ  mile  NNE  of  Kiiialdie  station  on  the  Great  North 
of  Scotland,  this  being  10  J  miles  N\V  of  Aberdeen,  under 
which  Fintray  has  a  post  office.  Fairs  are  held  here  on 
the  first  Saturday  of  February,  April,  and  December. 

The  parish  is  bounded  NE  by  the  Banffshire  section 
of  New  Machar  and  by  Udny,  E  by  the  main  body  of 
New  Machar,  S  by  Dyce  and  Kinnellar,  SW  by  Kintore, 
and  W  and  NW  by  Keithhall.  Rudely  resembling  a  tri- 
angle in  outline,  with  northward  apex,  it  has  an  utmost 
length  from  N  by  W  to  S  by  E  of  4  miles,  an  utmost 
width  from  E  to  W  of  5  J  miles,  and  an  area  of  7389  acres, 
of  which  69J  are  water.  The  Don,  ■\vinding  7J  miles 
east-by-southward,  from  just  below  Kintore  to  opposite 
the  manse  of  Dyce,  roughly  traces  all  the  south-western 
and  southern  boundary  ;  and,  where  it  quits  the  parish, 
the  surface  sinks  to  116  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising, 
in  gentle  knolls  and  rounded  eminences,  to  300  feet  at 
Woodhill,  245  at  the  parish  church,  325  near  Cairnie, 
and  415  at  the  Hill  of  Tillykerrie  in  the  furthest  N. 
Granite  and  gneiss  are  the  prevailing  rocks,  traversed  by 
veins  of  coarsish  limestone  ;  and  the  soil  of  tiie  haughs 
along  the  Don  is  a  rich  alluvium,  of  the  grounds  above 
them  is  dry  and  early  on  a  gravelly  subsoil,  and  elsewhere 
ranges  from  peat  earth  and  blue  gravelly  clay  to  yellow 
loam  of  a  more  productive  nature.  Eleven-fourteenths  of 
the  entire  area  are  regularly  or  occasionally  in  tillage,  about 
660  acres  are  imder  wood,  and  the  rest  is  either  pastoral 
or  waste.  Cothal  Mill  here  was  a  large  woollen  fac- 
tory, now  stopped,  with  steam  and  water  power,  and 
upwards  of  100  hands.  Patrick  Copland,  LL.D.  (1749- 
1822),  professor  of  natural  philosophy  at  Aberdeen,  was 
a  native,  his  father  being  parish  minister.  Fintray  House, 
near  the  bank  of  the  Don,  7  furlongs  E  of  the  vUlage,  is 
a  large  modern  mansion  in  the  Tudor  style  ;  the  estate 
was  acquired  in  1610  by  the  first  of  the  Forbeses  of 
Ckaigievae,  having  belonged  to  the  Abbey  of  Lindores 
in  Fife  from  1224  down  to  the  Reformation.  Another 
residence  is  Disblair  Cottage ;  and  3  proprietors  hold 
each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  2  of  between 
£100  and  £500,  and  2  of  less  than  £100.  Fintray  is  in 
the  presbytery  and  sj'nod  of  Aberdeen ;  the  living  is 
worth  £391.  The  church,  at  the  village,  is  a  neat  and 
substantial  structure  of  1821,  containing  800  sittings ; 
and  2  public  schools,  Disblair  and  Hatton,  with  respec- 
tive accommodation  for  100  and  140  children,  had  (1882) 
an  average  attendance  of  57  and  116,  and  grants  of  £40, 
18s.  and  £91,  6s.  Valuation  (1860)  £5583,  (1882)  £7965, 
14s.  Sd.  Pop.  (1801)  886,  (1831)  1046,  (1861)  1003, 
(1871)  1108,  (1881)  1032.— Ord  Sur.,  sh.  77,  1873. 

Fintry,  a  hamlet  and  a  parish  of  central  Stirlingshire. 
The  hamlet  stands,  400  feet  above  sea-level,  on  the  left 
bank  of  Endrick  Water,  5  miles  ESE  of  Balfrou,  16  WSW 
of  Stirling,  and  17  N  by  E  of  Glasgow,  under  which  it 
has  a  post  office.  Gonachan  hamlet  lies  5  furlongs  E  by 
S  of  it,  and  Newtown  hamlet  |  mile  WNW. 

The  parish  is  bounded  NW  by  Balfron,  NE  by  Gar- 
gunnock,  E  by  St  Ninians,  SE  by  Kilsyth,  S  by  Campsie, 
SW  by  Strathblane,  and  W  by  Eillearn.  Its  utmost 
length,  from  E  to  W,  is  6|  miles ;  its  breadth,  from  N 
to  S,  varies  between  2|  and  5  miles ;  and  its  area  is 
13,881  acres,  of  which  109  are  water.  From  its  source 
(1600  feet)  upon  Campsie  Miur,  in  the  S  of  the  parish, 
the  river  Carron  flows  6  mOes  east-north-eastward,  at 
first  along  the  boundary  with  Campsie,  but  chiefly 
through  the  south-eastern  interior,  till  it  passes  off  east- 
ward into  Kilsyth.  Endrick  Water,  gathering  its  head- 
streams  from  the  N  of  Fintry  and  the  SW  of  Gargunnock, 
winds  3J  miles  south-eastward  and  southward  along  the 
GargunnockandStNiniansborder,  then,  bending  sharply, 
continues  5|  miles  west-by-northward,  and  passes  off 
into  Balfron.  About  a  mUe  below  its  westerly  bend, 
it  hurls  itself  over  a  precipice  94  feet  high,  and  makes  a 
superb  cascade — the  'Loup  of  Fintry.'  DungoU  (1396 
feet)  and  Gartcarron  Hill  (1006)  form  the  '  divide '  be- 
tween these  streams,  which  at  one  point  approach  within 
7  furlongs  of  each  other — the  Carron  running  eastward 


FINTRY 

to  the  Firth  of  Forth,  and  the  Endrick  westward  to  Loch 
Lomond,  and  so  to  the  Firth  of  Clyde.  The  surface 
mainly  consists  of  soft  green  hills,  part  of  the  range  that 
stretches  from  Stirling  to  Dumbarton — the  Fintry  Hills 
in  the  N,  in  the  S  the  Campsie  Fells.  It  declines  along 
the  Carron  to  750  feet  above  sea-level,  along  the  Endrick 
to  270  ;  and  the  highest  points  in  the  parish  are  Stronend 
(1676  feet)  near  the  north-western,  Meikle  Bin  (1870) 
near  the  south-eastern,  and  Holehead  (1801)  exactly  on 
the  southern,  border.  The  only  inhabited  parts  are  the 
two  intersecting  valleys,  watered  by  re.spectively  the 
Carron  and  the  Endrick.  The  Carron's  vaUey,  so  far  as 
within  the  parish,  is  mostly  meadow,  and  has  few  in- 
habitants. The  Endrick's  valley,  narrow  at  its  eastern 
extremity,  opens  gradually  to  a  width  of  about  a  mile, 
and  partly  exhibits,  partly  commands,  a  series  of  richly 
picturesque  scenes.  Cultivated  fields,  interrupted  by 
fine  groves,  along  the  river's  banks,  hedgerows  and  plan- 
tations around  Culcreuch  on  the  N  side,  and  some  well- 
arranged  clumps  of  trees  on  the  skirts  and  shoulders  of 
the  hills  to  the  S,  combine  to  form  an  exquisite  picture. 
The  flanking  hill-ranges,  occasionally  broken  and  pre- 
cipitous, wreathed  sometimes  in  clouds,  and  always  wear- 
ing an  aspect  of  loveliness  and  dignity,  produce  an  im- 
posing effect  along  the  entire  reach  of  the  valley  ;  and 
the  summits  of  Ben  Lomond  and  other  mountains  of  the 
frontier  Grampians,  seen  in  vista  away  to  the  W,  pre- 
sent a  noble  perspective.  In  a  hill  called  the  Dun,  near 
the  hamlet,  is  a  range  of  basaltic  pillars.  Seventy  pillars 
are  in  front,  some  of  them  separable  into  loose  blocks, 
others  apparently  unjointed  from  top  to  bottom.  Some 
are  square,  others  pentagonal  or  hexagonal ;  and  they 
rise  perpendicularly  to  a  height  of  50  feet.  At  the  E  end 
of  the  range  they  are  divided  by  interstices  of  3  or  4 
inches  ;  but  as  the  range  advances  they  stand  closer  and 
closer,  till  at  last  they  are  blended  in  one  solid  mass  of 
honeycombed  rock.  Trap  also  constitutes  most  of  the 
other  liUls,  which  often  have  such  forms  or  projections 
as  add  no  little  to  the  beauty  of  the  scenery.  Granite 
occurs  in  detached  fragments,  and  coal  in  several  small 
seams ;  in  Dun  Hill  are  extensive  beds  of  red  ochre  ; 
and  fire  stone,  jasper,  and  fine  specimens  of  zeolite  are 
found  among  the  rocks.  The  soil,  in  most  parts  of  the 
valleys,  is  light  and  fertile  ;  but  of  the  entire  area  only 
1020  acres  are  in  tillage  and  100  under  wood,  the  rest 
of  the  land  being  either  pastoral  or  waste.  Fintry  or 
Graham's  Castle,  the  ancient  stronghold  of  the  Grahams 
of  Fintry,  stood  near  the  left  bank  of  Endrick  Water, 
on  the  St  Ninians  side,  3J  miles  E  of  Fintry  hamlet, 
and  now  is  represented  by  mere  vestiges.  Sir  Daniel 
Macnee  (1806-82),  portrait  painter,  and  president  of  the 
Royal  Scottish  Academy,  was  a  native.  Culcreuch, 
which  has  been  noticed  separately,  is  the  only  mansion  ; 
and  its  owner  and  the  Duke  of  Montrose  divide  nearly  all 
the  property.  Fintry  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Dumbarton, 
and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr ;  the  living  is  worth 
£228.  The  church,  at  the  hamlet,  was  built  in  1823, 
and  is  a  neat  edifice,  with  a  W  tower  and  500  sittings. 
A  public  school,  and  a  free  school  endowed  with  £3000 
by  the  late  John  Stewart,  Esq. ,  with  respective  accom- 
modation for  90  and  82  children,  had  (1881)  an  average 
attendance  of  33  and  57,  and  grants  of  £32,  Is.  6d.  and 
£60,  3s.  6d.  Valuation  (1860)  £4532,  (1882)  £5329, 
14s.  6d.  Pop.  (1801)  958,  (1831)  1051,  (1851)  823,  (1861) 
685,  (1871)  499,  (1881)  414— a  decrease  due  to  the  stop- 
page of  a  cotton  mill. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  31,  30,  39,  38, 
1866-71. 

Fintry,  an  estate  in  Mains  and  Strathmartine  parish, 
Forfarshire,  3  miles  NNE  of  Dundee.  From  the  Earls 
of  Angus  it  passed  by  marriage  to  the  Grahams  of  Fintry ; 
was  held  by  them  for  several  centuries ;  contained  Cla- 
VERHOUSE,  the  family  seat  of  the  famous  Viscount  Dun- 
dee ;  and  went  eventually  to  Erskine  of  Linlathen. 
Fintry  Castle,  built  in  1311  on  the  steep  bank  of  a 
rivulet  amidst  a  dense  mass  of  lofty  trees,  comprised  a 
quadrangle,  with  a  strong  tower  pierced  by  a  principal 
gateway  facing  W  ;  had  a  passage  over  that  gate,  whence 
missiles  could  be  showered  upon  assailants  ;  was  de- 
fended by  several  outworks  ;  and  is  now  extinct.     The 

29 


FINTEY 

joausoleum  of  the  Grahams  is  still  in  the  parish  church- 
yard. 

Fintry,  a  small  bay  on  the  W  side  of  Big  Cumbrae 
island,  Buteshire.  It  is  a  mere  incurvature  5  furlongs 
long  ;  but  it  has  a  fine  beach  of  yellow  sand  nearly  300 
yards  broad,  overlooked  by  a  succession  of  pleasant 
natural  terraces  ;  and  so  it  is  well  situated  to  become 
some  day  the  site  of  a  watering-place. 

Finzean  House,  a  mansion  in  Birse  parish,  S  Aber- 
deenshire, 7  miles  SE  by  E  of  Aboyne  station,  this  being 
32^  miles  W  by  S  of  Aberdeen.  A  fine  old.  building, 
forming  three  sides  of  a  quadrangle,  it  stands  amid 
large  and  richly  wooded  grounds.  Its  owner,  Robert 
Tarquharson,  Esq.,  M.D.,  F.R.C.P.  (b.  18-37;  sue. 
1876),  was  elected  Liberal  member  of  West  Aberdeen- 
shire in  1880,  and  holds  16,809  acres  in  the  county, 
valued  at  £6167  per  annum. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  66,  1871. 

Fiodhaig.     See  Fiag. 

Fionaven.     See  Foinaven. 

Fionnchairn  or  Finoharn,  a  ruined  fortalice  in  Eil- 
michael-Glassary  parish,  Argyllshire,  on  the  steep  SE 
margin  of  Loch  Awe,  2J  miles  ENE  of  Ford,  near  the 
loch's  head.  A  small  but  strong  keep,  it  is  said  by 
tradition  to  have  belonged  to  a  chieftain  called  Mac  Mhic 
Jain,  and  to  have  been  bimied  by  a  vassal  whose  wife  he 
had  wTonged,  and  by  whom  he  himself  was  slain. 

Fionn  Loch,  a  lake  on  the  mutual  border  of  Gairloch 
and  Lochbroom  parishes,  NW  Koss-shire,  3^  miles  N 
of  Letterewe  on  Loch  Maree,  and  6  E  of  Poolewe. 
Lying  559  feet  above  sea-level,  and  2238J  acres  in  area, 
it  extends  5f  miles  north-north-westward,  has  a  vary- 
ing width  of  4  furlong  and  IJ  mile,  teems  with  trout, 
and  sends  ofi^  the  Little  Greinord  5|  miles  north-by- 
eastward  to  the  head  of  Greinord  Bay. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
92,  1881. 

Firhall,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Nairn  parish, 
Nairnshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  Nairn,  |  mile  S 
of  Nairn  station. 

Firkin  Point,  a  small  headland  in  Arrochar  parish, 
Dumbartonshire,  on  the  W  side  of  Loch  Lomond,  2f 
miles  SSE  of  Tarbet. 

Firth,  a  bay  in  the  mainland  of  Orkney.  Opening  on 
a  line  westward  from  the  String,  or  the  sound  betw  en 
the  mainland  and  Shapinshay,  it  measures  2^  miles 
from  N  to  S  across  the  entrance,  penetrates  3J  miles 
west-south-westward,  and  contracts  to  a  width  of  11  fur- 
longs, but  re-expands  presently  to  a  width  of  1 5.  It  is 
noted  for  its  oyster  beds ;  contains,  in  its  upper  part,  the 
islets  of  Damsay  and  Grimbister  Holm ;  sends  off,  from  its 
NW  corner,  the  little  bay  of  Isbister ;  and  is  bounded  on 
the  lower  reach  of  its  northern  side  by  Kendall  parish, 
of  its  southern  side  by  Kirkwall  or  St  Ola  parish. 

Firth,  a  parish  in  the  mainland  of  Orkney,  bounded 
N  by  Kendall  parish,  E  by  Firth  Bay  and  Eirlvwall 
parish,  S  by  Orphir  and  Stenness,  and  AV  by  Harray. 
It  includes  the  islets  of  Damsay  and  Grimbister  Holm  ; 
contains  Finstown  village  ;  and  is  united  to  Stenness. 
The  united  parish  of  Firth  and  Stenness,  in  its  SW  or 
Stenness  portion,  communicates  by  a  bridge  with  Strom- 
ness  parish,  and  is  largely  bounded  by  Stenness  Loch  and 
Hoy  Sound.  Its  greatest  length,  from  NE  to  SW,  is  8A 
miles  ;  and  its  greatest  breadth  is  4  J  miles.  The  shores 
of  the  united  parish  are  undulating  and  fertile  ;  but  the 
interior  consists  largely  of  moor  and  hill,  covered  with 
heath  and  peat-moss.  Between  1841  and  1879,  how- 
ever, the  late  Mr  Kobert  Scarth  of  Binsoarth  did 
much  in  the  way  of  reclaiming,  enclosing,  draining, 
liming,  and  planting — improvements  described  at  length 
in  pp.  48-51  of  Trans.  Highl.  and  Ag.  Soc.  (1874).  A 
lake  and  a  singular  Caledonian  monument  are  noticed  in 
our  article  on  Stenness.  Two  proprietors  hold  each  an 
annual  value  of  between  £100  and  £500,  2  of  from  £50 
to  £100,  and  4  of  from  £20  to  £50.  This  parish  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  Cairston  and  synod  of  Orkney  ;  the 
living  is  worth  £225.  There  are  2  parish  churches, 
that  of  Firth  built  in  1813,  and  that  of  Stenness  in 
1793.  There  are  also  a  U.P.  church  of  Firth  and  Free 
churches  of  Firth  and  Stenness  ;  and  2  public  schools, 
Firth  and  Stenness,  with  respective  accommodation  for 
30 


FLADDA 

160  and  100  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance 
of  77  and  62,  and  grants  of  £82,  5s.  6d.,  and  £64,  10s. 
Valuation  of  Firth  and  Stenness  (1881)  £1752,  10s.  lOd. 
Pop.  (1801)  1272,  (1S61)  1493,  (1871)  1434,  (1881) 
1362. 

Fisheross,  a  village  near  Sauchie  in  the  detached 
portion  of  Clackmannan  parish,  Clackmannanshire,  2 
miles  NNE  of  Alloa.  Pop.,  together  with  Sauchie, 
(1871)  419,  (1881)  320. 

Fisherie,  a  hamlet  in  King  Edward  parish,  NW 
Aberdeenshire  8  miles  NNE  of  TuiTiff,  under  which  it 
has  a  post  ofiice. 

Fisherrow.     See  Musselburgh. 

Fisherton,  a  hamlet  and  a  quoad  sacra  parish  in  May. 
bole  parish,  Ayrshire.  The  hamlet  lies  near  the  coast, 
1 J  mile  SW  of  the  Head  of  Ayr,  and  6  mUes  SW  of  Ayr, 
its  station  and  post-to^Ti.  The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery 
of  Ayr  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr  ;  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £120.  The  church  was  originally  a  chapel 
of  ease,  and  was  preceded  by  a  preaching  station  com- 
menced about  1820.  Pop.  (1871)  609,  (1881)  609.— 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  14,  1863. 

Fishertown,  Banffshire.     See  Cullen. 

Fish-Holm,  a  small  island  in  Delting  parish,  Shetland, 

3  miles  S  of  the  southern  extremity  of  Yell. 
Fishie.     See  Feshie. 

Fishlin,  a  small  island  in  the  N  of  Shetland,  6  mUes 
S  of  the  southern  extremity  of  Yell. 

Fishtown.     See  Cullen. 

Fishwick,  an  ancient  parish  of  SE  Berwickshire, 
united  to  Hutton  in  1614.  Its  small,  long,  narrow 
church,  standing  close  to  the  left  bank  of  the  Tweed, 
7  furlongs  above  the  Union  Chain  Bridge,  and  5J  miles 
WSW  of  Berwick,  belonged  for  some  time  to  the  monks 
of  Coldingham,  and  is  now  a  picturesque  ruin.  The 
ancient  cemetery  lies  around  the  ruin,  and  is  stiU 
occasionally  in  use. 

Fishwives'  Causeway.     See  Duddingston. 

Fitch,  a  village  in  the  S  of  Shetland,  3J  miles  from 
its  post-town,  Lerwick. 

Fitful  Head  (Old  IS oxse  fit- ficcll),  a  large  bold  headland 
in  Dunrossness  parish,  Shetland,  flanking  the  NW 
side  of  Quendale  Voe,  6  miles  NW  of  Sumburgh  Head. 
It  rises  to  a  height  of  929  feet ;  is  seen  at  a  great 
distance  by  vessels  approaching  from  the  SW  ;  and 
consists  chiefly  of  clay  slate.  In  the  Pirate  Scott  fixes 
here  the  abode  of  the  prophetess,  Noma. 

Fithie,  a  beautiful  lake  (SJxJ  furl.),  with  wooded 
shores,  in  Forfar  parish,  Forfarshire,  2  miles  ENE  of 
the  town. 

Fithie,  a  rivulet  of  SW  Forfarshire.  It  rises  on 
Balcallo  Hill  at  an  altitude  of  800  feet  above  sea- 
level,  and  running  8  miles  south-eastward,  through  or 
along  the  borders  of  Tealing,  Murroes,  Dundee,  and 
Montfieth  parishes,  falls  into  Dichty  Water,  IJ  mile 
above  that  stream's  entrance  to  the  Firth  of  Tay. 
It  makes,  in  its  lowermost  reach,  valuable  alluvial 
deposits  on  its  banks. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  48,  49,  1868-65. 

Fittiok,  a  place  in  Nigg  parish,  Kincardineshire,  on 
Nigg  Bay,  If  mile  SE  of  Aberdeen.  It  was  the  site  of 
an  ancient  church,  St  Fittick's,  now  extinct ;  and  it 
once  gave  name  to  Nigg  Bay. 

Fitty,  a  lake  on  the  mutual  border  of  Dunfermline 
and  Beath  parishes,  Fife,  3  miles  NE  of  Dunfermline 
town.  It  measm'es  1  by  J  mile  ;  is  rather  shallow,  and 
of  tame  aspect ;  receives  a  stream  of  3J  miles  in  length 
of  run  from  the  Saline  Hills  ;  sends  off  Lochfitty  Burn 

4  miles  east-north-eastward  to  the  Orr  ;  and  contains 
pike,  perch,  and  mussels. — Ord.  Sttr.,  sh.  40,  1867. 

Fitty,  a  hill  in  the  W  of  Westray  island,  Orkney. 
The  highest  part  of  a  range,  called  elsewhere  Skea 
and  Gallo,  it  rises  to  the  height  of  652  feet  above  sea- 
level,  and  served  and  was  used  in  1821  as  a  station  of 
the  'Trigonometrical  Survey. 

Five  Mile  House,  a  hamlet  in  Liff  and  Benvie 
parish,  Forfarshire,  5  miles  NW  of  Dundee,  under  which 
it  has  a  post  ofiBce. 

Fladda,  an  island  of  Portree  parish,  Inverness-shirCj 
in  Raasay  Sound,  4  miles  E  of  the  nearest  part  of  Skye, 


FLADDA 

and  9  KE  of  Portreo  town.  It  measures  IJ  by  J  mile, 
and  is  separated  from  Eaasay  only  by  a  narrow  strait, 
wliich  is  dry  at  half-tide.  Pop.  (1861)  45,  (1871)  54, 
(1S81)  54. 

Fladda,  an  island  of  South  Uist  parish.  Outer  Hebrides, 
Inverness-shire,  immediately  N"  of  Eona  island,  and  2^ 
miles  SE  of  the  nearest  part  of  North  Uist  island.  It 
measures  4J  miles  in  circumference.  Pop.  (1861)  48, 
(1871)  76,  (1881)  87. 

Fladda,  a  small  island  of  Barra  parish,  Outer  Hebrides, 
Inverness-shire,  2  miles  S  of  Vatcrsay. 

Fladda,  the  northernmost  of  the  Treshinish  isles  in 
Kilninian  and  Kilmore  parish,  Argyllshire,  3  miles  SW 
of  Treshinish  Point,  a  north-western  extremity  of  Mull. 
Its  surface  is  flat  and  monotonous. 

Fladda,  an  islet  of  Kilbrandon  and  Kilchattan  parish, 
Argyllshire,  near  Easdale.  A  lighthouse  on  it  shows 
a  fixed  light  visible  at  the  distance  of  11  nautical  miles, 
red  toward  the  Bogha-Nuadh  rock,  and  white  toward 
the  mainland  and  channel  to  the  S,  but  masked  in  other 
directions. 

Fladda,  a  flat  islet  in  the  NW  extremity  of  Harris 
parish,  Outer  Hebrides,  Inverness-shire,  in  the  mouth 
of  Loch  Reasort. 

Fladda,  an  uninhabited  pastoral  islet  of  Eilmuir 
parish,  Inverness-shire,  4J  miles  SE  of  Aird  Point  in 
Skye. 

Fladdachuain,  an  uninhabited  pastoral  islet  of  Kilmuir 
parish,  Inverness-shire,  6  miles  NW  of  Aird  Point  in 
Skye.  It  measures  f  mile  in  length  and  300  yards  in 
average  breadth  ;  is  clothed  with  remarkably  flue  grass ; 
had  anciently  three  burying-places  ;  and  also,  till  a 
recent  period,  retained  nine  stones  of  an  ancient  Cale- 
donian stone  circle.  A  one-inch  diameter  ring,  of  plaited 
gold  wires,  was  found  in  a  moss  here,  and  bought  for 
the  Edinburgh  Antiquarian  Museum  in  1851. 

Fladibister,  a  hamlet  in  Dunrossness  parish,  Shetland, 
S  miles  S  of  Lerwick. 

Flanders  Moss,  a  tract  of  low,  flat  ground  in  the  NE 
of  Drymen  parisli,  SW  Stirlingshire,  on  the  southern 
bank  of  the  Forth.  Lying  from  40  to  60  feet  above 
sea-level,  it  is  believed  to  have  passed  from  the  condi- 
tion of  a  rich  alluvial  plain  to  the  condition  of  a  bog, 
through  the  overthrow  of  a  forest  on  it  by  the  Roman 
army  in  the  time  of  Severus ;  and  has,  to  a  great  extent, 
in  recent  times,  been  reclaimed  by  means  of  channel 
cuttings  to  the  Forth.  It  is  skirted,  to  the  SE,  by  the 
Forth  and  Clyde  Junction  section  of  the  North  British 
railway. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  38,  1871. 

Flannan  Isles  or  Seven  Hunters,  a  group  of  seven 
small  uninhabited  islands  in  Uig  parish,  Outer  Hebrides, 
Ross-shire,  21  miles  WNW  of  Gallon  Head  in  Lewis. 
Called  by  Buchanan  Insula:  Sacrce,  they  possess  some 
monuments,  supposed  to  be  religious  relics  of  the  ancient 
Caledonians,  but  seemingly  as  late  as  the  7th  or  8th 
centui-y ;  and  they  are  frequented  by  immense  flocks  of 
sea-fowl. 

Fleet,  a  small  river  of  SE  Sutherland,  rising  at  an 
altitude  of  750  feet  above  sea-level,  2  miles  E  by  S  of 
Lairg  church,  and  thence  winding  16f  east-south-east- 
ward, till  it  falls  below  Little  Ferey  into  the  Dornoch 
Firth.  Its  principal  affluent  is  the  Cairnaig,  and  it 
intersects  or  bounds  the  parishes  of  Lairg,  Rogart,  Gol- 
spie, and  Dornoch.  In  its  upper  and  middle  reaches  it 
traverses  a  fine  glen  called  from  it  Strathfleet ;  lower 
down  it  expands  into  a  tidal  lagoon.  Loch  Fleet  (3|  x  16 
miles),  similar  to  the  lagoons  of  the  Forfarshire  South 
Esk  and  the  Findhorn ;  but  in  the  last  mile  above  its 
mouth  it  again  contracts  to  a  width  of  from  1  to  2J 
fmiongs.  Its  strath,  from  a  point  near-  the  source  all 
down  to  the  head  of  the  lagoon,  is  traversed  by  the 
Sutherland  railway,  in  a  gradient  of  1  in  84  ;  and  its 
stream,  |  mile  NW  of  Rogart  station,  near  the  High 
Rock  of  Craigmore,  is  crossed  by  the  railway  on  a  stone 
viaduct  with  a  single  arch  of  55  feet  in  span.  The 
lagoon  is  crossed  towards  its  head  by  the  lyiound,  an 
emimnkment  995  yards  long,  which,  taking  over  the 
public  road  for  the  eastern  seaboard  of  Sutherland,  was 
completed  in  1816  at  a  cost  of  £12,500,  and  is  pierced 


•      FLISK 

at  its  E  end  with  four  arches  and  sluices  for  the  transit 
of  the  river  and  of  tidal  currents.  Above  the  Mound 
the  lagoon  is  now  mainly  a  swampy  flat,  covered  with 
alders ;  below,  it  has  been  curtailed  to  the  extent  of  400 
acres,  by  the  reclamation  of  its  bed  from  the  tides  ;  and 
within  its  mouth  it  contains  a  harbour  260  yards  broad, 
with  IS  feet  of  water  at  ebb  tide,  perfectly  sheltered  in  all 
weather,  and  serving  for  the  importation  of  coals,  lime, 
bone-dust,  and  general  merchandise,  and  for  the  expor- 
tation of  agricultural  and  distillery  produce.  The  river 
is  frequented  by  sea-trout,  grilse,  and  salmon  ;  and  the 
neck  of  it  between  the  lagoon  and  the  sea  contains  a 
fine  salmon  cast — '  the  only  spot  in  the  kingdom  where 
angling  for  salmon  has  been  successfully  practised  in 
salt  water.'  The  depth  of  water  over  the  bar  at  the 
river's  mouth  is  IS  feet  at  full  spring  tide,  and  44  feet 
at  ebb  tide.— Ord  Sur.,  shs.  102,  103,  1881-78. 

Fleet  Street.     See  Anwoth  and  Gatehouse. 

Fleet,  Water  of,  a  small  river  of  Girthon  parish,  S"W 
Kirkcudbrightshire.  The  Big  "Water  of  Fleet  is  formed 
at  a  point  2g  miles  above  a  20-arch  viaduct  of  the  Port- 
patrick  railway,  by  the  confluence  of  Carrouch,  Mid, 
and  Cardson  Burns,  which  all  three  rise  on  the  eastern 
side  of  Cairnsmoke  of  Fleet  (2331  feet).  Thence  it 
runs  6J  miles  south-south-eastward  along  the  liirkma- 
breck  and  Anwoth  border,  till  it  is  joined  by  the  Little 
"Water  of  Fleet,  which,  issuing  from  triangular  Loch 
Fleet  (3x2  furl.  ;  1120  feet),  has  a  south-by-easterly 
course  of  7  J  miles.  After  their  union,  near  Castramont, 
the  stream,  as  "Water  of  Fleet,  flows  4;j  miles  south-by- 
eastward,  and  then,  a  little  below  Gatehouse,  expands, 
over  the  last  3|  miles  of  its  course,  into  the  fine  estuary 
of  Fleet  Bay.  It  traverses  charming  scenery  throughout 
its  middle  or  lower  reaches,  and  is  navigable  by  small 
vessels  up  to  Gatehouse.  Its  waters  are  strictly  pre- 
served, and  trout,  sea-trout,  and  herlings  are  plentiful, 
but  salmon  nowadays  are  few  and  far  between. — Ord. 
Sicr.,  shs.  4,  5,  1857. 

Flemington,  a  village  in  Avondale  parish,  Lanarkshii'e, 
containing  Strathaven  station,  and  ^  mile  NE  of  the 
town. 

Flemington,  a  village  in  Ayton  parish,  Berwickshire, 
near  the  North  British  railway,  f  mile  E  by  N  of  Ayton 
station. 

Flemington,  a  burn  in  Newlands  parish,  Peebles- 
shire, running  4;^  miles  south-westward,  till,  after  a  total 
descent  of  700  feet,  it  falls  into  Lyne  "Water,  2  miles  S 
by  E  of  Eomanno  Bridge. 

Flemington,  an  estate,  with  an  old  castle,  in  Aber- 
lemno  parish,  Forfarshire,  the  property  of  Patrick  Web- 
ster, Esq.  of  Westfield.  "The  castle,  standing  300  yards 
E  of  the  parish  church,  presents  a  strong  and  stately 
appearance.  It  was  inhabited  by  the  proprietor  till 
about  1830,  and  afterwards  was  occupied  by  farm- 
servants. 

Flemington,  a  collier  village,  of  recent  growth,  in 
Cambuslaug  parish,  NW  Lanarkshire,  1  mile  from  Cam- 
buslang  village.     Pop.  (1881)  691. 

Flemington,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Petty  parisli, 
NE  Inverness-shire,  f  mile  NE  of  Fort  George  station. 
Separated  from  Kilravock  in  1787,  it  is  now  the  property 
of  Lewis  Carmichael  Urquhart,  Esq.,  of  Elgin.  Loch 
Flemington  (4J  x  IJ  furl.)  lies  1  mile  SSE  on  the  Croy 
border,  half  in  Naii'n  and  half  in  Inverness  shire. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  84,  1876. 

Fleurs.     See  Floors. 

Flexfield,  a  hamlet  in  Mouswald  parish,  Dumfries- 
shire, 6 J  miles  E  by  S  of  Dumfries. 

Flint,  an  eastern  offshoot  of  the  Broughton  Heights, 
on  the  mutual  border  of  Stobo  and  Eirkurd  parishes, 
Peeblesshire,  4J  miles  NNE  of  Rachan  Mill.  It  has  an 
altitude  of  1756  feet  above  sea-level. 

Flisk,  a  parish  of  N  Fife,  whose  church  to  the  NE 
stands  1  furlong  S  of  the  Firth  of  Tay,  6  miles  ENE  of 
Newburgh  station,  and  7S  NNW  of  the  post-town 
Cupar,  whilst  on  its  SW  border  is  the  little  village  of 
Glenduckie,  4^  mUes  E  by  N  of  Newburgh.  Bounded 
NW  and  N  by  the  Firth  of  Tay,  E  by  Balmerino,  SE  by 
Creich,  S  by  the  Aytonhill  section  of  Abdie,  and  8"^ 

31 


FLOAT  BAV 

by  Dunbog,  it  has  an  utmost  length  from  ENE  to  WSW 
of  4J  miles,  a  varying  breadth  of  4^  furlongs  and  2 
miles,  and  an  area  of  285  4 J  acres,  of  which  240 J  are 
foreshore.  The  firth,  expanding  here  from  IJ  to  3  miles, 
is  fringed  by  a  level  strip  70  to  550  yards  in  breadth, 
beyond  which  the  surface  rises  rapidly  to  714  feet  at 
Glenduckie  Hill,  800  on  the  boundary  with  Abdie,  and 
600  on  that  with  Creich,  whilst  from  Glenduckie  sinking 
again  to  less  than  200  on  the  Dunbog  border.  The 
rocks  are  partly  eruptive,  partly  Devonian,  and  the  soil 
in  general  is  a  clayey  loam.  Rather  more  than  one- 
tenth  of  the  entire  area  is  under  wood,  one-fifteenth  is 
natural  pasture,  and  all  the  rest  is  under  cultivation. 
Ballanbreich  Castle,  a  picturesque  ruin,  has  been  separ- 
ately noticed.  Two  parsons  of  Flisk  in  the  first  half  of 
the  16th  century,  John  Waddell  and  James  Balfour, 
were  judges  of  the  Court  of  Session  ;  and  another,  John 
Wemyss,  towards  the  close  of  that  century,  became 
principal  of  St  Leonard's  College,  St  Andrews.  The 
property  is  mostly  divided  among  three.  Giving  off  a 
portion  quoad  sacra  to  Dunbog,  Flisk  is  in  the  presby- 
tery of  Cupar  and  synod  of  Fife ;  the  living  is  worth 
£259.  The  parish  church,  built  in  1790,  contains  153 
sittings ;  and  a  public  school,  mth  accommodation  for  73 
children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  40,  and  a 
grant  of  £49,  6s.  Valuation  (1866)  £3666,  16s.  3d., 
(1882)  £4452,  2s.  lOd.  Pop.  of  civil  parish  (1801)  300, 
(1831)  286,  (1861)  313,  (1871)  280,  (1881)  259  ;  of  q.  s. 
parish  (1871)  212,  (1881)  21Z.— Orel.  Siir.,  sh.  48,  1868. 

Float  Bay  or  Port  Float,  a  small  bay  in  Stoneykirk 
parish,  Wigtownshire,  6  miles  SE  of  Portpatrick.  It  is 
said  to  have  got  its  name  from  the  wreck  here  of  some 
of  the  ships  of  the  Spanish  Armada  or  '  Flota ; '  but 
above  it  is  the  moss  or  flow  of  'Meikle  Float.' 

Float  Moss,  a  large  expanse  of  low  meadowy  ground 
m  Carstairs,  Carnwath,  and  Pettinain  parishes,  Lanark- 
shire, along  the  banks  of  the  Clyde,  in  the  south-eastern 
vicinity  of  Carstairs  Junction.  It  used  to  be  frequently 
flooded  by  freshets  of  the  river,  so  as  at  times  to  resemble 
a  large  and  dreary-looking  lake  ;  and  it  took  its  name 
from  a  float  or  large  boat  which  formerly  served  in  lieu 
of  a  bridge  across  the  Clyde,  and  which  cost  £500.  The 
Caledonian  railway  goes  across  it,  on  works  which  were 
formed  at  great  expense  ;  and  it  has  here  timber  viaducts 
for  allowing  free  scope  to  the  freshets  of  the  river. 

Flodda.     See  Fladda. 

Flodigairy,  an  ancient  house  in  Kilmuir  parish,  Isle 
of  Skye,  Inverness-shire.  A  loud  rumbling  noise,  heard 
from  beneath  an  eminence  in  its  close  vicinity,  is  sup- 
posed to  be  caused  by  the  roll  of  sea-billows  into  some 
natural  tunnel  or  subterranean  cavern. 

Floors  Castle,  the  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Eoxburghe,  in 
Kelso  parish,  Roxburghshire,  3  furlongs  from  the  N 
bank  of  the  Tweed,  and  IJ  mile  WNW  of  Kelso  town. 
As  built  for  the  first  Duke  in  1718  by  Sir  John  Vanbrugh, 
a  better  playwright  than  architect,  it  was  severely  plain, 
not  to  say  heavy-looking  ;  but  in  1849  and  following 
years  the  whole  was  transformed  by  Playfair  of  Edin- 
burgh into  a  sumptuous  Tudor  pile — one  of  the  most 
palatial  residences  of  the  Scottish  nobility.  The  gar- 
dens, too,  already  beautiful,  were  greatly  extended 
(1857-60)  ;  the  home  farm,  to  the  rear  of  the  castle, 
was  rearranged  and  in  great  measure  rebuilt  (1875) ; 
and  no  fewer  than  120  model  cottages  were  erected  on 
the  estate — all  these  improvements  being  carried  out  by 
James,  sixth  Duke  (1816-79),  who  had  the  honour  of 
receiving  visits  here  from  Queen  Victoria  (Aug.  1867),  the 
Prince  and  Princess  of  "Wales,  the  Duke  of  Edinburgh, 
the  Duke  of  Albany,  etc.  John,  third  Duke  (1740- 
1804),  is  remembered  as  a  famous  bibliomaniac.  His 
library,  numbering  nearly  10,000  books,  was  sold  in 
1812,  when  the  first  edition  of  the  Decameron  (1471) 
brought  £2260,  and  Caxton's  Historye  of  Troye  (1461) 
1000  guineas.  James  Henry  Robert  Innes-Ker,  present 
and  seventh  Duke  since  1707  (b.  1839  ;  sue.  1879),  holds 
50,459  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £43,820,  8s.  per 
annum. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  25,  1865.  See  Eoxbxjkgh, 
Eelso,  and  Cessfoed. 

Flotta,  an  island  in  the  S  of  Orkney,  lying  nearly 
32 


FOCHABERS 

midway  between  Hoy  and  South  Ronaldshay,  and  flank- 
ing part  of  the  southern  side  of  Scalpa  Flow,  15  miles 
SSW  of  Kirkwall.  It  has  a  post  office  under  Stromness. 
It  measures  3^  miles  in  length  from  NE  to  SW,  by  2  j 
miles  in  extreme  breadth,  and  is  deeply  pierced  on  the 
north-eastern  side  by  an  elongated  bay  called  Pan- 
hope,  which  forms  an  excellent  harbour.  The  coast 
is  mostly  high  and  rocky  ;  the  interior  low,  tame,  and 
heathy,  consisting  mainly  of  sandstone  and  sandstone- 
flag.  Specially  well  situated  for  fishing,  and  famous 
for  its  excellent  fishing  boats,  it  was  the  residence 
of  the  ancient  Norwegian  historiographer,  sent  from 
Norway  to  collect  information  respecting  Scotland,  and 
gave  name  to  his  work,  the  Codex  Flotticensis,  from 
which  Torfaeus  and  subsequent  historians  drew  much  of 
their  materials  on  the  ancient  condition  of  the  northern 
districts  of  Scotland.  Ecclesiastically,  the  island  is 
included  in  the  parish  of  Walls  and  Flotta.  Pop. 
(1841)  405,  (1861)  420,  (1871)  423,  (1881)  425. 

Flotta-Calf,  a  pastoral  island  of  Flotta  parish,  Orkney, 
adjacent  to  the  north-eastern  extremity  of  Flotta  island, 
and  measuring  2  miles  in  circumference. 

Flowerdale,  an  old-fashioned  mansion  of  the  middle 
of  last  century,  with  beautiful  grounds  and  finely-wooded 
policies,  in  Gairloch  parish,  NW  Ross-shire,  adjacent  to 
Gairloch  village,  and  to  the  head  of  the  Gair  Loch.  It 
is  the  seat  of  Sir  Kenneth-Smith  Mackenzie  of  Gairloch, 
sixth  Bart,  since  1702  (b.  1832  ;  sue.  1843),  who  holds 
164,680  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £7842,  15s.  per 
annum.  His  ancestor,  '  Eachin  Roy '  or  '  Red  Hector,' 
second  son  of  Alexander,  seventh  chieftain  of  KintaU,  ob- 
tained a  grant  of  Gairloch  barony  from  James  IV.  in  1 494. 

FlowerhilL    See  Aikdkib. 

Fluchter,  a  village  in  Baldemook  parish,  SW  Stirling- 
shire, 2  miles  E  of  Milngavie. 

Fludha,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Kirkcudbright 
parish,  Kirkcudbrightshire,  IJ  mile  from  the  town. 

Fochabers,  a  small  town  in  Bellie  parish,  NE  Elgin- 
shire. It  stands,  140  feet  above  sea-level,  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Spey,  4  miles  above  its  mouth,  and  3  miles 
E  by  N  of  Fochabers  station,  in  Speymouth  parish,  on 
the  Highland  railway,  this  station  being  6^  mUes  ESE 
of  Elgin  and  llf  WNW  of  Keith.  Its  present  site  is 
an  elevated  gravel  terrace  in  a  deep  wooded  valley,  but 
it  stood  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Goedon  Castle 
till  the  close  of  last  century,  when,  to  improve  the 
grounds  of  that  noble  mansion,  it  was  rebuilt  on  the  line 
of  road  from  Aberdeen  to  Inverness,  about  a  mile 
farther  S.  The  ancient  market-cross  still  stands  in 
the  ducal  park.  A  handsome  three-arch  bridge,  382 
feet  long,  that  spans  the  Spey  here,  was  partly  swept 
away  by  the  great  flood  of  1829,  which  raised  the  river 
nearly  9  feet  above  its  ordinary  level.  The  town  has  a 
quadrangular  outline,  with  central  square  and  streets  at 
right  angles  one  to  another  ;  presents  a  neat,  weU-built, 
and  modern  appearance  ;  serves  as  a  business  centre  for 
a  considerable  extent  of  surrounding  country ;  com- 
municates by  coach  with  Keith  and  Portsoy  ;  and  has  a 
post  oSice,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  insurance, 
and  railway  telegraph  departments,  branches  of  the 
Union  and  Aberdeen  Town  and  Count}'  Banks,  a  branch 
of  the  Elgin  Savings'  Bank,  a  penny  savings'  bank,  9 
insurance  agencies,  an  hotel  called  the  Gordon  Arms,  a 
county  police  station  (1869),  a  reading-room  and  library, 
and  a  gas-light  company.  Thursday  is  the  day  of  a 
weekly  corn  market ;  fairs  are  held  on  the  third  Thurs- 
day of  January  and  February,  the  fourth  Wednesday  of 
March,  the  fourth  Thursday  of  April  and  May,  the  first 
Thursday  of  July,  the  second  Wednesday  of  August, 
and  the  first  Thursday  of  October  and  December ;  and 
sheriff  small  debt  courts  sit  on  the  Saturday  after  the 
second  Monday  of  February,  June,  and  October.  Bellie 
parish  church,  on  the  S  side  of  the  square,  is  a  hand- 
some edifice  of  1797,  with  a  portico  and  a  spire.  Other 
places  of  worship  are  a  Free  church,  a  Roman  Catholic 
church  (1828),  and  an  Episcopal  church,  which,  built 
in  1835  at  a  cost  of  £1200,  was,  at  a  further  cost  of 
over  £2000,  internally  restored  in  1874.  The  antiquary, 
George  Chalmers  (1742-1825),  and  William  Marshall 


FODDERTY 

(1748-1833),  whom  Burns  styles  'the  first  composer  of 
Strathspeys  of  the  age,'  were  both  born  at  the  old  town. 
Milne's  Free  School  arose  from  a  bequest  of  £20,000  by 
Alexander  Milne,  another  native,  who  died  at  New 
Orleans  in  1838.  Opened  with  great  ceremony  in  1846, 
it  is  a  splendid  edifice,  finely  situated,  and  comprises  a 
hall  (58  by  22  feet),  4  other  class-rooms,  and  a  rector's 
dwelling-house.  It  is  conducted  by  a  rector,  an 
English  master,  an  arithmetic  and  writing  master,  and 
a  mistress — all  appointed  by  a  body  of  directors,  and, 
with  accommodation  for  723  children,  it  had  (1881)  an 
average  attendance  of  336,  and  a  grant  of  £284,  2s. 
The  town  is  a  burgh  of  barony,  governed  by  a  baron 
bailie  under  the  Duke  of  Richmond  and  Gordon.  Pop. 
(1841)  1135,  (1861)  1149,  (1871)  1227,  (1881)1189.— 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  95,  1876. 

Fodderty,  a  parish  of  south-eastern  and  central  Ross 
and  Cromartj',  traversed  for  6J  miles  by  the  Dingwall 
and  Skye  branch  of  the  Highland  railway,  from  a  point 
1§  mile  W  by  N"  of  Dingwall  to  the  foot  of  Loch  Garve. 
Strathpeffer  station  thereon  lies  4J  miles  WNW  of 
Dingwall ;  and  the  parish  also  contains  Strathpeffer 
Spa,  AuoHTERNEED  hamlet,  and  Makybukgh  village. 
It  is  bounded  N  by  Kincardine,  NE  by  Alness,  Kiltearn, 
and  Dingwall,  SE  by  Urquhart,  S  by  Urray,  and  SW 
by  Coutin.  Its  utmost  length,  from  NAY  to  SE,  is  23 
miles ;  its  width  varies  between  1  mile  and  7|  miles ; 
and  its  area  is  65,264g  acres,  of  which  988  J  are  water,  and 
2720f  belong  to  the  Maryburgh  or  south-eastern  portion, 
detached  from  the  main  body  by  a  strip  of  Dingwall 
parish,  g  furlong  broad  at  the  narrowest.  Through  this 
south-eastern  section  the  Conan  ilows  If  mile  north- 
north-eastward  to  the  head  of  Cromarty  Firth  ;  whilst 
in  the  main  body,  the  Peffer,  rising  at  an  altitude  of 
1750  feet,  winds  7J  miles  south-south-eastward  and  east- 
by-northward,  till,  If  mile  above  its  mouth,  it  passes 
off  into  DingwaU.  Lakes  are  Loch  Ussie  (6J  x  4§  furl.  ; 
419  feet),  lying  partly  in  Dingwall  and  partly  in  the 
detached  portion  ;  Lochs  Garve  (1 J  x  J  mile  ;  220  feet) 
and  Gorm  (2  x  2i  furl.  ;  1900  feet)," on"  the  Contin  bor- 
der ;  Crom  Loch  (J  mile  x  31  furl.  ;  1720  feet),  on  the 
Kincardine  border ;  and  Loch  Toll  a'  Mhuic  (5f  x  2 
furl.  ;  880  feet),  in  the  nortli-western  interior.  The 
surface  declines  to  20  feet  above  sea-level  along  tte 
Peifer,  and  S  of  the  railway  attains  579  feet  at  conical 
Knock  Farril,  801  at  Creag  Ulladail,  and  874  at  Creag 
an  Fhithich  ;  north-westward  it  rises  to  1172  at  Druim 
a'  Chuilein,  1705  at  Cam  Gorm,  3106  at  An  Cabar,  3429 
at  huge  lumpish  *Ben  Wyvis,  2206  at  *Carn  nan  Con 
Ruadha,  and  2551  at  Meall  a'  Ghrianain,  where  asterisks 
mark  those  summits  that  culminate  on  the  confines  of 
the  parish,  the  highest  point  in  whose  detached  portion 
is  628  feet.  A  calcareo-bituminous  rock — fish-bed  schist 
of  the  Old  Red  sandstone  series — occurs  in  large  quan- 
tities in  the  lower  parts  of  Fodderty.  It  emits,  when 
broken,  a  peculiar  foetid  odour ;  and  to  it  the  Wells 
owe  their  ingredients  and  properties.  A  seam  of  soft 
friable  bitumen  in  a  hill  above  Castle-Leod  is  capable  of 
jdelding  a  high  percentage  of  oil,  though  not  enough  to 
repay  the  cost  of  working,  as  proved  by  investigations  of 
1870-71.  The  rocks  of  the  mountainous  north-western 
region  are  gneissose  chiefly,  of  Silurian  age.  The  soil 
of  the  arable  lands  ranges  from  a  strong  reddish  clay  to 
a  fine  free  loam,  and  great  improvements  have  been 
carried  out  on  the  Duchess  of  Sutherland's  property 
since  1867  in  the  way  of  reclaiming,  fencing,  planting, 
building,  etc.  ;  still  the  arable  area  is  small,  compared 
with  hUl-pasture  and  moorland.  A  cairn,  measuring 
260  feet  by  20,  is  on  the  lands  of  Hilton,  where  and  on 
Cromarty  estate  are  remains  of  two  stone  circles  ;  two 
standing  stones  adjoin  the  parish  church  ;  and  several 
kistvaens  or  ancient  stone  cofiins  have  been  found  to 
the  N  of  the  churchyard.  The  chief  antiquity,  the 
vitrified  fort  on  Knock  Farril,  is  noticed  separately, 
as  also  is  the  chief  mansion,  Castle-Leod.  Four  pro- 
prietors hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards, 
2  of  between  £100  and  £500,  and  6  of  less  than  £100. 
Giving  off  portions  to  the  quoad  sacra  parishes  of  Car- 
nach  and  Kinlochluichart,  Fodderty  is  in  the  presbytery 


FORBES 

of  Dingwall  and  synod  of  Ross ;  the  living  is  worth 
£354.  The  parish  church,  9  furlongs  ESE  of  Strath- 
peffer station,  was  built  in  1807,  and,  as  enlarged  in 
1835,  contains  640  sittings.  There  are  two  Free  churches, 
one  of  Maryburgh  and  one  of  Fodderty  and  Coutin  ;  and. 
two  public  schools,  Fodderty  and  Maryburgh,  ivith  re- 
spective accommodation  for  165  and  121  children,  had 

(1881)  an  average  attendance  of  111  and  117,  and  gi'ants 
of  £84,  Is.  and  £107,  Is.  6d.     Valuation  (1860)  £7538, 

(1882)  £12,583,  15s.  Pop.  of  civil  parish  (1801)  1829, 
(1831)  2232,  (1861)  2247,  (1871)  2121,  (1881)  2047,  of 
whom  1381  were  Gaelic-speaking ;  of  ecclesiastical  parish 
(1871)  1943,  (1881)  1S80.— Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  83,  93,  1881. 

Foffarty,  a  property  in  Kinnettles  parish,  Forfarshire, 
3  miles  SSW  of  Forfar.  A  Roman  Catholic  chapel,  with 
manse  and  ofiBces,  was  built  here  soon  after  tlie  Refor- 
mation, on  the  margin  of  a  den  at  the  foot  of  Kincaldrum 
Hill ;  and,  burned  by  a  party  of  royal  dragoons  in  1745, 
remained  in  a  roofless  and  ruinous  condition  for  many 
years,  till  it  was  razed  to  the  foundations  in  1816. 

Fogo,  a  liamlet  and  a  jiarish  of  central  Berwickshire. 
The  hamlet  lies  on  the  right  bank  of  Blackadder  Water, 
14  mile  E  of  Marchmont  station,  and  4 J  miles  S  by  W 
of  its  post-town.  Duns. 

The  parish  is  bounded  N  and  NE  by  Edrom,  E  by 
Swiuton,  S  by  Eccles,  SW  by  Greenlaw,  and  NW  by 
Polwarth.  Its  utmost  length,  from  ENE  to  WSW,  is 
5J  miles  ;  its  utmost  breadth  is  2  miles  ;  and  its  area  is 
4669  acres,  of  which  17J  are  water.  Blackadder  Water 
winds  3f  miles  north-eastward  through  the  north-western 
interior,  and  then  for  1  mile  traces  the  northern  border ; 
its  channel  is  a  sort  of  huge  furrow  here,  between 
parallel  ranges  of  low  heights,  that  nowhere  sink  much 
below  300,  or  much  exceed  500,  feet  above  sea-level. 
Sandstone,  the  principal  rock,  was  formerly  quarried ; 
and  boulder  clay  lies  so  deep  that  the  steep  banks  of  the 
Blackadder  can  be  ploughed  within  a  few  yards  of  the 
stream.  The  soil  on  the  higher  grounds  is  a  deep  black 
loam,  extremely  fertile ;  that  of  the  lower  grounds  is 
thinner,  and  lies  on  till,  yet  is  very  far  from  being  un- 
productive. Some  300  acres  are  under  wood,  40  or  so 
are  natural  pasture,  and  all  the  rest  of  the  land  is  under 
cultivation.  A  Roman  camp,  crowning  a  commanding 
elevation  (500  feet)  at  Chesters,  near  the  south-western 
extremity  of  the  parish,  and  approached  by  a  causeway 
through  a  marsh,  has  been  nearly  obliterated  by  the 
operations  of  agriculture.  Caldra  and  CharterhaU,  both 
separately  noticed,  are  mansions ;  and  the  property  is 
divided  among  four.  Fogo  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Duns  and  synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale  ;  the  living 
is  worth  £300.  The  parish  church,  on  the  Blackadder's 
bank,  at  the  village,  is  an  old  and  picturesque,  ivy- 
mantled  building,  enlarged  in  1853,  and  containing  278 
sittings.  A  public  school,  with  accommodation  for  123 
children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  57,  and  a 
grant  of  £52,  18s.  6d.  Valuation  (1882)  £7959.  Pop. 
(1801)507,  (1831)  433,  (1851)  604,  (1861)  559,  (1871) 
502,  (1881)  468.— Oi-A  Stir.,  shs.  26,  25,  1864-63. 

Foinaven  or  Foiime-Bheinn,  a  mountain  (2980  feet) 
on  the  mutual  border  of  Eddraehillis  and  Durness  parish, 
NW  Sutherland,  5|  miles  WSW  of  the  head  of  Loch 
Eriboll. 

Folda,  a  hamlet  in  Glenisla  parish,  NW  Forfarshire, 
13  mUes  NNW  of  Alyth.  It  has  a  Christian  Knowledge 
Society  school  and  a  post  office  under  Alyth. 

FoUart,  Loch.    See  Dunvegan. 

Foodiecast,  a  hamlet  in  the  SW  corner  of  Dairsie 
parish,  Fife,  1 J  mile  N  of  Cupar. 

Footdee.     See  Aberdeen,  p.  9. 

Fopachy,  a  landing-place  for  vessels,  but  without 
any  proper  harbour,  in  Kirkhill  parish,  Inverness-shire, 
on  the  S  side  of  the  Beauly  Firth,  f  mile  NW  of  Bun- 
chrew  station. 

Forbes,  a  hamlet  and  an  ancient  parish  in  Aberdeen- 
shire. The  hamlet  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river 
Don,  at  the  Bridge  of  Alford,  If  mUe  WNW  of  Alford 
village,  and  has  a  good  inn,  the  Forbes  Arms,  and  a 
post  office  under  Aberdeen.  The  parish  was  annexed  in 
1722  to  Kearn,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  a  range  of 

33 


FORD 

hills ;  and  has,  since  1808,  been  united  to  TuUynessle. 
It  has  belonged,  from  the  13th  century,  to  the  noble 
family  of  Forbes  of  Castle  Foeees. — Ord.  Siir.,  sh.  76, 
1874. 

Ford,  a  village  in  Borthwick  and  Cranston  parishes, 
Edinburghshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  Tyne,  J  mile 
"W  by  N  of  Pathhead,  4J  miles  ESE  of  Dalkeith,  and  10  J 
SE  of  Edinburgh.  It  practically  forms  one  village  Avith 
Pathhead,  but  it  has  a  post  office  of  its  own  name  under 
Dalkeith,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  tele- 
graph departments,  and  a  United  Presbyterian  church, 
birilt  in  1851.  See  Ckanston  and  Pathhead. — Oi-d. 
Sur.,  sh.  33,  1863. 

Ford.     See  Fokd-Lochawe. 

Fordel,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Dalgety  parish, 
Fife.  The  mansion,  standing  2J  miles  NNE  of  Inver- 
keithing,  is  a  castellated  edifice,  whose  picturesque 
grounds  contain  a  darkly  wooded  glen,  with  a  cascade 
of  50  feet  in  fall.  It  was  the  seat  of  George  William 
Mercer-Henderson,  Esq.  (1823-81),  who  o-\vned  1955  acres 
in  the  shire,  valued  at  £5843  per  annum,  and  on  whose 
death  Fordel  passed  to  his  youngest  sister,  Edith  Isabella, 
married  in  1S66  to  the  Hon.  Hamilton  -  Hew  -  Adam 
Duncan,  second  son  of  the  first  Earl  of  CamperdoAvn. 
Extensive  coal  mines,  worked  on  the  estate  since  1600, 
still  yield  a  large  though  a  diminished  output.  They 
lie  beneath  a  surface  rising  from  a  few  feet  to  420  feet 
above  sea-level,  being  chielly  situated  in  the  southern 
and  south-eastern  vicinity  of  Crossgates ;  and  liave  a 
tram  railway,  called  the  Fordel  railway,  4  miles  in 
length,  communicating  with  the  seaboard  village  of  St 
Davids,  li  mile  E  by  S  of  Inverkeithing. — Ord.  Sur., 
shs.  40,  32,  1867-57. 

Fordel  Square,  a  collier  village  in  Dalgety  parish, 
Fife,  contiguous  to  the  boundary  with  Aberdour,  and  on 
the  Fordel  railway,  near  its  northern  extremity,  f  mile 
ESE  of  Crossgates.  Part  of  it  is  called  Wemyss  Square, 
and  the  whole  is  often  called  simply  Fordel.  Pop. 
(1861)  813,  (1871)  641,  (1881)  488. 

Ford-Lochawe,  a  village  in  Kilmartin  and  Glassary 
parishes,  Argyllshire,  J  mile  SSW  of  the  head  of  Loch 
Awe,  and  12  miles  N  of  Lochgilphead,  under  which 
it  lias  a  post  and  telegraph  oflice.  During  the  summer 
months  it  forms  a  point  of  communication  between  a 
public  coach  running  from  Ardrishaig  and  a  small 
steamer  sailing  up  from  Brander,  at  the  foot  of  Loch 
Awe  ;  and  it  has  an  inn,  a  public  school,  and  an  Estab- 
lished mission  station,  conjoint  with  one  at  Lochgair. — • 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  37,  1876. 

Ford  of  Frew,  a  ford  in  the  river  Forth,  on  the 
mutual  boundary  of  Stirlingshire  and  Perthshire,  3 
furlongs  NE  of  Kippen  station.  It  was  formerly  de- 
fended by  a  small  fortress. 

Ford  of  Pitcur,  a  hamlet  in  Eettins  parish,  Forfar- 
shire, 3  miles  SE  of  Coupar-Angus. 

Fordoun,  a  parish  in  Kincardineshire,  containing  the 
post-oifice  village  of  Auohinblae,  5|  miles  N  by  E  of 
Laurencekirk,  and  2J  NNW  of  Fordoun  station,  on  the 
Scottish  North-Eastern  section  of  the  Caledonian,  which 
station  is  27J  miles  SSW  of  Aberdeen,  and  30  NE  of 
Forfar,  and  at  which  is  a  post  ofiice  of  Fordoun,  with 
money  order,  savings'  bank,  insurance,  and  telegraph 
departments. 

The  parish  is  bounded  NW  and  N  by  Strachan,  NE  by 
Glenbervie,  SE  by  Arbuthnott,  S  by  Laurencelurk  and 
Marykirk,  and  W  by  Fettercairn.  Its  gi'eatest  length, 
from  E  to  W,  is  lOJ  miles  ;  its  utmost  breadth,  from  N 
to  S,  is  7g  miles ;  and  its  area  is  26,937  acres,  of  which  88i 
are  water.  Beevie  Water,  gathering  its  four  head- 
streams  in  the  northern  exti'emity  of  the  parish,  winds  11 
mUes  south-eastward  and  south-by-westward,  chiefly 
along  the  Glenbervie  and  Arbuthnott  borders  ;  Litthek 
Water,  from  its  source  above  Drumtochty,  curves  5| 
miles  south-eastward  and  southward,  past  Auchinblae, 
on  its  way  to  the  river  North  Esk  ;  and  of  two  of  its 
own  little  tributaries,  Ferdun  Water  and  Dourie  Burn, 
the  former  traverses  the  western  interior,  the  latter 
traces  the  boundary  with  Fettercairn.  Sinking  along 
Bervie  Water  to  170,  along  Luther  Water  to  190,  feet 
84 


FOEDOUN 

above  sea-level,  the  surface  thence  rises  to  717  feet 
at  Knock  Hill,  725  at  Herscha  HDl,  1055  at  Black  Hill, 
1358  at  Strathfinella  Hill,  1000  at  Arnbarrow  Hill,  1664 
at  *Whitelaws,  1488  at  *Cairn  O'Mouut,  1194  at  HiU  of 
Annahar,  1527  at  *Goyle  Hill,  1146  at  Aikenhead,  and 
1291  at  the  *Builg,  where  asterisks  mark  those  summits 
that  culminate  right  on  the  north-western  border.  The 
northern  and  larger  portion  of  the  parish,  known  as  the 
Brae  district,  consists,  thus,  of  ridges  and  spurs  of  the 
frontier  Grampians,  with  intersecting  glens  and  vales ; 
and  presents,  especially  along  the  course  of  Luther  Water, 
and  around  the  base  of  Strathfinella  HUl,  not  a  few  scenes 
of  more  than  common  beauty.  The  southern  district, 
part  of  the  Howe  of  the  Mearns,  is  all  nearly  level, 
nowhere  attaining  300  feet  above  sea-level.  The 
principal  rocks  of  the  uplands  are  clay  slate,  mica  slate, 
and  other  metamorphic  rocks  ;  those  of  the  Howe  are 
New  Red  sandstone,  sandstone  conglomerate,  and 
intruded  trap  ;  and  limestone  occurs  at  Drumtochty  and 
Glenfarquhar.  The  soil  of  this,  the  most  important  agri- 
cultural parish  in  the  county,  is  very  various.  A  large 
proportion  is  strong  clayey  loam,  a  considerable  extent 
good  medium  loam,  and  a  pretty  large  area  light  loam. 
The  subsoil  is  a  mixture  of  clay  and  gravel  in  some 
parts,  and  hard  gravel  in  others  (Trans.  Highl.  and 
Ag.  Soc,  1881,  pp.  115-117).  Fully  one-thirteenth 
of  the  entire  parish  is  under  wood,  and  rather  less 
than  one-half  is  arable.  Near  Fordoun  House  are 
traces  of  a  Roman  camp;  the  'Priest's  AVells,'  in 
'Friar's  Glen,'  above  Drumtochty,  mark  the  probable 
site  of  a  religious  house,  said  to  have  been  a  Carmelite 
friary ;  a  stone  circle  stood  on  Herscha  HiU,  an 
ancient  castle  in  Glenfarquhar;  and  Arnbarrow  Hill 
was  traversed  by  the  Deer  Dyke.  Antiquities  no- 
ticed separately  are  Finella  Castle,  Castleton,  and 
the  site  of  the  town  of  Kincardine,  the  former  capital 
of  the  county.  George  Wislrart,  burned  at  St  Andrews 
as  a  heretic  in  1546,  was  of  Pittarrow;  and  other  natives 
ofFordoun  were  Alexander  Hamilton,  M.D.  (1739-1802), 
an  eminent  physician,  and  the  judge  James  Burnet,  Lord 
Monboddo  (1714-99),  who  anticipated  Darwin  in  an  evo- 
lution theory — of  monkeys  whose  tails  wore  off  with  con- 
stant sitting.  So,  too,  according  to  Camden,  was  John 
of  Fordun,  a  14th  century  chronicler,  whose  'carefully 
manipulated  fictions' — the  Scotichronicon — have  been 
edited  by  Dr  Skene  (Edinb.  1871)  for  the  '  Historians  of 
Scotland '  series.  To  Fordun  this  parish  is  mainly  in- 
debted for  its  supposed  ccmnection  with  the  '  chief  apostle 
of  the  Scottish  nation,'  St  Palladius,  whose  name  is  pre- 
served in  Paldy  Fair,  and  whose  chapel,  with  a'rude  piscina, 
still  stands  in  the  parish  churchyard.  In  430,  we  are 
told.  Pope  Celestine  sent  him  to  Scotland  ( '  in  Scotiam ') 
'as  the  first  bishop  therein,  with  Serf  and  Ternan  for 
fellow- workers ;  and  at  Fordoun  he  founded  a  church,  and 
shortly  afterwards  there  was  crowned  with  martjrrdom.' 
But  '  Scotia '  in  430  could  have  meant  Ireland  only;  and 
Skene,  in  vol.  ii.  of  his  Celtic  Scotland  (ISII ,^^.  26-32), 
shows  that  St  Serf  belonged  to  the  latter  part  of  the  7th 
century.  His  solution  is,  that  Ternan,  and  Ternan 
alone,  really  was  a  disciple  of  Palladius,  and  brought  his 
relics  from  either  Ireland  or  Galloway  to  his  own  native 
district  in  the  territories  of  the  southern  Picts,  who  had 
been  converted  by  St  Ninian,  and  that,  as  founder  of 
the  church  of  Fordoun  in  honour  of  Palladius  he  became 
to  some  extent  identified  with  him.  (See  also  Banohokt- 
Ternan  and  CuLROSS.)  Fordoun  House,  Ij  mUe  SSE 
of  Auchinblae,  belongs  to  Viscount  Arbuthnott,  but  is 
merely  a  farmhouse  now.  Other  mansions,  treated  of 
separately,  are  Drumtochty  Castle  and  Monboddo 
House  ;  and  11  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value 
of  £500  and  upwards,  3  of  between  £100  and  £500,  3  of 
from  £50  to  £100,  and  16  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Fordoun 
gives  name  to  a  presbytery  in  the  synod  of  Angus  and 
Mearns  ;  the  living  is  worth  £440.  The  church,  a  little 
to  the  S  of  Auchinblae,  is  a  good  Gothic  structure  of 
1829,  with  1230  sittings,  and  a  conspicuous  tower  93  feet 
high.  There  is  also  a  Free  church.  The  '  Minstrel, ' 
James  Beattie  (1735-1803),  was  parish  schoolmaster  from 
1753  to  1758.  'Three  public  schools — Fordoun,  Landsend, 


F0RD7CE 

and  Tipperty — mth  respective  accommodation  for  208, 
60,  and  49  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance 
of  131,33,  and  33,  and  grants  of  £130,  4s.  6d.,  £24,  17s., 
and  £43, 15s.  Vahiation(lS56)  £15,949,  (1882)  £21,610, 
10s.  8d.,  2jZi(s  £1821  for  railway.  Pop.  (1801)  2203, 
(1831)  2238,  (1861)  2297,  (1871)  2113,  (1881)  lS92.—Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  66,  1871. 

The  presbytery  of  Fordoun,  now  meeting  at  Laurence- 
kirk, comprises  the  qzwad  civilia  parishes  of  Arbuthnott, 
Benholm,  Bervie,  Dunnottar,  Fettercairn,  Fetteresso, 
Fordoun,  Garvock,  Glenbervie,  Kinnelf  and  Caterline, 
Laurencekirk,  Marykirk,  and  St  Cyrus,  with  the  quoad 
sacra  parishes  of  Cockney  and  Rickarton.  Pop.  (1871) 
23,895,  (ISSl)  23,830,  of  whom  7479  were  communicants 
of  the  Chm'ch  of  Scotland  in  1878.— The  Free  Church 
also  has  a  presbytery  of  Fordoun,  with  churches  at  Ben- 
holm,  Bervie,  Fettercairn,  Fordoun,  Glenbervie,  Kinneff, 
Laurencekirk,  Marykirk,  St  Cyi'us,  and  Stonehaven, 
which  together  had  1572  communicants  in  1881. 

Fordyce,  a  village  and  a  coast  parish  of  Banffshire. 
The  village,  standing  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Burn  of 
Fordyce,  2J  miles  SW  of  Portsoy  and  4  ESE  of  CuUen, 
is  a  burgh  of  barony  under  the  Earl  of  Seaiield,  having 
received  its  first  charter  in  1499,  and  another  in  1592. 
It  has  a  post  office  under  Bantf,  and  a  fair  on  the  second 
AVednesday  of  November. 

The  parish  contains  also  the  town  of  PoRTSOT,  with 
the  villages  of  Sandend  and  Newmills,  and  prior  to  the 
Reformation  comprehended  likewise  the  present  parishes 
of  Cullen,  Deskford,  and  OrdiquhiU.  It  is  bounded  N 
by  the  Moray  Firth,  E  by  Boyndie,  SE  by  Ordiquhill, 
SW  by  Grange,  and  W  by  Deskford  and  Cullen.  Its 
utmost  length,  from  NNE  to  SSW,  is  7g  miles ;  its 
utmost  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  is  5§  miles  ;  and  its  area 
is  17,430  acres,  of  which  197|  are  foreshore,  and  34| 
water.  The  Burn  of  Botne,  rising  on  the  northern 
slope  of  Knock  Hill,  runs  first  aci'oss  the  southern 
interior,  then  7  miles  north-north-eastward  along  all 
the  BojTidie  border  to  the  sea ;  Duen  Burn  runs  6 
miles  through  the  middle  of  the  parish  to  the  sea  at 
Portsoy ;  and  Fordyce  Burn,  rising  at  the  boundary 
with  Deskford,  runs  3J  miles  across  the  north-western 
district  to  the  sea  at  Sandend  Bay.  The  coast,  which, 
measured  along  its  sinuosities,  is  8|  miles  long,  is  some- 
what bold  and  rocky,  with  bays  at  Portsoy  and  Sand- 
end, and  headlands  called  East  Head,  Redhythe  Point, 
Crathie  Point,  and  Logic  Head  (189  feet).  It  is  pierced 
with  several  caves,  the  principal  Dove,  Kitty,  Bow, 
Cloutty,  and  Findlater  Caves,  none  of  them  of  any  great 
extent.  The  interior  is  partly  a  fine  flat,  with  frequent 
inequalities  or  rising-grounds,  and  partly  a  series  of 
hUls,  with  intervening  and  flanking  vales  and  dales. 
Chief  elevations,  from  N  to  S,  are  Cowhythe  (257  feet), 
Crannoch  Hill  (300),  Duen  HiU  (651),  Fordyce  Hill 
(580),  the  Hill  of  Inverkindling  (923),  and  Knock  HUl 
(1409),  the  last  of  which,  culminating  at  the  meeting- 
point  with  Grange  and  Ordiquhill,  presents  a  majestic 
appearance,  and  serves  as  a  landmark  to  mariners 
throughout  a  considerable  sweep  of  the  Moray  Firth. 
The  rocks  exhibit  great  diversity,  at  once  of  character 
and  of  interconnection  ;  and,  from  the  time  of  Hutton 
do^vnward,  have  strongly  attracted  the  attention  of 
geologists.  A  beautiful  serpentine  forms  two  masses, 
respectively  73  and  1500  feet  wide,  in  the  vicinity  of 
Portsoy,  and  is  associated  with  syenite,  hornblende, 
quartzite,  clay  slate,  limestone,  and  talc  or  mica  slate, 
whilst  containing  asbestos,  amianthus,  mountain  cork, 
steatite,  schiller-spar,  magnetic  iron,  chromate  of  iron, 
and  other  minerals.  Mostly  greenish  and  reddish  in 
hue,  sometimes  yellowish  and  greyish-wdiite,  it  has 
often  been  called  Portsoy  marble,  and  is  highly  valued 
as  a  material  for  ornamental  objects,  having  been 
exported  in  some  quantity  to  France  for  adorning 
Versailles  Palace.  Yeius  of  graphite  granite,  compris- 
ing quartz  and  felspar  crystals  in  such  arrangement, 
that  a  polished  section  resembles  rudely  formed  letters, 
occur  iu  the  same  neighbourhood ;  and  a  beautiful 
quartzite,  suitable  for  use  in  potteries,  has  been  quarried 
on  the  northern  side  of  Durn  Hill,  and  exported  to 


FOEFAR 

England.  Limestone  has  been  worked  in  three  quarries 
near  Fordyce  village,  near  Sandend,  and  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Burn  of  Boyne  ;  and  trap  rocks,  comprising  com- 
mon greenstone,  syenitic  greenstone,  hypersthenic 
greenstone,  and  augitic  greenstone,  occupy  most  of  the 
interior.  The  soil  is  variously  a  light  or  a  clay  loam, 
and  a  strong  clay,  very  productive  along  the  seaboard, 
but  cold  and  wet  towards  the  S.  One-half  of  the 
entire  area  is  regularly  or  occasionally  in  tillage  ;  one- 
fifteenth  is  under  wood  ;  and  the  rest  is  either  pastoral 
or  waste.  Glassaugh  House  is  a  chief  mansion,  and 
Findlater  Castle  a  chief  antiquity,  both  being  separately 
noticed.  Other  antiquities  are  remains  of  an  ancient 
camp  on  Durn  Hill,  and  cairns,  tumuli,  and  remains  of 
ancient  Caledonian  stone  circles  in  various  places.  Four 
proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and 
upwards,  6  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  18  of  from  £20  to 
£50.  The  seat  of  a  presbytery  in  the  synod  of  Aber- 
deen, this  parish  is  divided  ecclesiastically  into  Fordyce 
proper  and  the  quoad  sacra  parish  of  Portsoy,  the  former 
a  living  worth  £418.  Its  parish  church,  at  the  village, 
was  built  in  1804,  and  contains  1100  sittings.  At  the 
vUlage,  too,  is  a  Free  church  ;  and  five  other  places  of 
worship  are  noticed  under  Portsoy.  Fordyce  Academy, 
an  institution  for  the  education  and  board  of  nine  boys 
of  the  name  of  Smith,  natives  of  the  parish,  was  founded 
and  endowed  in  1790  by  Mr  George  Smith  of  Bombay. 
Besides  three  schools  at  Portsoy,  the  five  public  schools 
of  Bogmuchals,  Brodiesord,  Fordyce,  Fordyce  female, 
and  Sandend,  with  respective  accommodation  for  49,  70, 
124,  72,  and  64  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attend- 
ance of  35,  39,  136,  66,  and  42,  and  grants  of  £31,  8s. 
6d.,  £32,  10s.  6d.,  £121,  12s.,  £57,  15s,,  and  £37,  5s. 
Valuation  (1843)  £8712,  3s.  5d.,  (1882)  £19,216,  4s. 
Pop.  (1801)  2747,  (1831)  3364,  (1861)  4145,  (1871) 
4153,  (1881)4289,  of  whom  1976  were  in  the  ecclesiastical 
parish  and  the  registration  district  of  Fordyce. — Urd, 
Sur.,  sh.  96,  1876. 

The  presbytery  of  Fordyce  comprises  the  quoad  civilia 
parishes  of  Banff,  Boyndie,  Cullen,  Deskford,  Fordyce, 
Ordiquhill,  and  Rathven,  the  quoad  sacra  parishes  of 
Buckie,  Enzie,  Ord,  and  Portsoy,  and  the  chapelry  of 
Seafield.  Pop.  (1871)  25,776,  (1881)  26,345,  of  whom 
4507  were  communicants  of  the  Church  of  Scotland  in 
1878. — The  Free  Church  also  has  a  presbytery  of  For- 
dyce, whose  ten  churches  of  Banff,  Boyndie,  Buckie, 
CuUen,  Deskford,  Enzie,  Fordyce,  Ordiquhill,  Port- 
knockie,  and  Portsoy,  together  had  2514  communicants 
in  1881. 

Forebank.     See  Dundee,  p.  418. 

Foreholm,  a  small  island  of  Sandsting  parish,  Shet- 
land, J  mile  E  of  the  nearest  pioint  of  the  mainland,  and 
5  miles  S  by  W  of  the  southern  extremity  of  Yell. 

Foreman  or  Fourmau  Hill,  an  eminence  at  the  meet- 
ing-point of  Forgue,  Huntly,  aud  Kothiemay  parishes, 
on  the  mutual  border  of  Aberdeen  and  Banft' shires,  above 
the  right  bank  of  the  river  Deveron,  5  mUes  NE  by  jST  of 
Huntly  town.  It  rises  to  a  height  of  1127  feet  above 
sea-level ;  has  a  beautiful  form,  somewhat  conical ;  is 
finely  wooded  for  a  good  way  up ;  and  commands  an  ex- 
tensive and  diversified  view.  Queen  Mary,  when  on  her 
way  to  Rothiemay  House,  passed  over  it  by  what  is  still 
called  the  Queen's  Road. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  86,  1876. 

Foreness,  a  small  peninsxda  in  Sandsting  parish, 
Shetland,  opposite  Foreholm,  and  between  Sand  Voe 
and  Sand  Sound  Voe. 

Forestfield.     See  Foeeestfield. 

Forestmill,  a  hamlet,  with  a  public  school,  in  Clack- 
mannan parish,  Clackmannanshire,  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Black  Devon,  3^  miles  ENE  of  Clackmannan  toivn. 
The  poet  Michael  Bruce  (1746-67)  taught  a  school  here 
in  1766. 

Forewood.    See  Murieston. 

Forfar,  a  royal  and  parliamentary  burgh,  the  seat  of 
a  presbytery,  and  the  capital  of  Forfarshire  or  Angus, 
is  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  southern  portion  of  the 
county.  By  road  it  is  12J  miles  SW  of  Brechin,  14 
NNE  of  Dundee,  and  54  NNE  of  Edinburgh  ;  whilst, 
as  the  junction  of  the  Dundee  and  Forfar  branch  (1870) 

3S 


FOBFAR 

of  the  Caledonian  witli  its  '  through '  line  to  Aherdeen 
(1839-50),  it  is  15i  miles  WSW  of  Bridge  of  Dun  Junc- 
tion, 57i  SSW  of  Aberdeen,  17J  N  by  "W  of  Broughty 
Ferry,  63|  NNE  of  Edinburgh,  32^  NE  of  Perth,  and 
95  NE  of  Glasgow.  The  country  round  is  undulating  ; 
and  the  town  stands,  200  feet  above  sea-level,  in  a  kind 
of  basin  formed  by  the  surrounding  slopes.  It  is  a  burgh 
of  great  antiquity,  having  been  a  royal  residence  in  the 
time  of  Malcolm  Ceannmor,  whose  castle  was  situated  on 
the  Castlehill,  a  conical  mound  at  the  NE  end  of  the  town. 
This  is  alleged  by  Boece  and  Buchanan  to  have  been  the 
meeting-place  of  the  parliament  held  in  1057,  at  which 
surnames  and  titles  were  first  conferred  on  the  Scottish 
nobility.  The  castle,  from  remains  in  existence  at  the 
beginning  of  this  century,  is  supposed  to  have  been  very 
extensive,  and  the  ruins  furnished  building  material  for 
the  old  steeple  and  the  W  entrance  of  the  old  church,  as 
well  as  for  many  houses  in  the  town.  A  figure  of  the 
castle  appears  in  the  common  seal  of  the  burgh  as  well 
as  on  the  market-cross  of  1684,  which  was  removed  a 
good  many  years  ago  by  the  magistrates  to  the  site  of 
the  old  castle.  Malcolm's  queen,  St  Margaret,  had  also 
a  residence  on  the  Inch  in  Forfar  Loch,  a  sheet  of  water 
which,  lying  in  Glamis  parish,  but  immediately  W  of 
the  town,  at  an  altitude  of  171  feet,  has  been  reduced 
by  draining  operations  to  an  utmost  length  and  breadth 
of  9  and  2  furlongs.  The  Inch,  reduced  now  to  a 
peninsula,  was  for  many  years  regarded  as  wholly  arti- 
ficial, a  '  crannog '  in  fact  or  lake-dwelling  ;  but  recent 
researches  shew  that  it  is  '  the  highest  part  of  a  narrow 
ridge  of  natural  gravel  which  runs  into  the  loch,  and 
the  so-called  causeway  is  a  continuation  of  this  ridge  as 
it  dips  into  the  deep  water'  {Ancient  Scottish  Lake- 
DtDellings,  Edinb.  1882).  This  causewaj',  which  was  sup- 
posed to  run  the  whole  length  of  the  island,  was  said  by 
tradition  to  have  been  used  in  former  days  as  a  means 
of  passing  from  the  island.  Tradition,  too,  associates 
some  weapons  found  in  the  loch  in  1770  with  the  mur- 
derers of  Malcolm  II.,  who,  after  committing  the  crime 
in  Glamis  Castle,  tried  to  cross  Forfar  Loch  on  the  ice, 
and  were  dro^vned.  Besides  these  scraps  of  questionable 
history,  memorials  of  royal  residence  survive  in  the 
designations  of  such  localities  as  the  King's  Muir,  the 
Queen's  Well,  the  Queen's  Manor,  the  Palace  Dykes,  and 
so  on.  An  annual /ete  in  honour  of  Queen  Slargaret, 
held  on  the  Inch,  was  long  a  vestige  of  the  royal  con- 
nection with  Forfar.  The  charter  elevating  the  town 
to  the  dignity  of  a  royal  burgh  was  granted  by  David  I. 
(1124-53),  and  the  records  of  the  parliaments  of  Scotland 
show  that  assemblies  were  held  there  by  "William  the 
Lyon,  by  Alexander  II. ,  and  by  Robert  II.  The  tovm 
was  almost  totally  destroyed  by  accidental  fire  in  1244. 
In  1291  King  Edward  I.  of  England  was  refused  admis- 
sion to  the  castle  by  Gilbert  de  Umfraville  ;  but  it  was 
occupied  by  him  and  his  suite  from  the  3d  till  the  6th 
of  July  1296.  In  1808,  when  '  stuffit  all  with  IngUs- 
men,'  this  castle  was  captured  by  Bruce  and  Philip,  the 
forester  of  Plater,  who,  making  an  escalade  under  cover 
of  night,  slew  all  the  garrison,  and  'brek  doun  the 
wall.'  It  was  never  rebuilt.  In  the  Great  Rebellion 
Forfar  adhered  to  the  King,  so,  after  the  English  had 
taken  Dundee,  Colonel  Ocky  marched  thence  to  Forfar 
with  a  considerable  body  of  dragoons,  and  not  only 
liberated  an  imprisoned  spy,  but  pillaged  and  harassed 
the  town.  In  1665  a  charter  of  confirmation  of  its 
early  privileges  was  granted  by  Charles  II.  in  requital 
of  this  plundering  and  of  the  protest  of  ex-Provost 
Strang  in  1647  against  the  proposal  to  hand  over 
Charles  I.  to  the  tender  mercies  of  the  English  rebels. 
In  1684  the  market-cross  was  erected  at  the  expense  of 
the  Crown,  and  stood  in  its  original  position  for  a  cen- 
tury and  a  half,  till  removed  as  before  noted.  In  con- 
nection with  Provost  Sti-ang,  or  rather  with  his  posterity, 
a  curious  story  is  told.  Two  of  this  family  had  settled 
at  Stockholm,  where  they  prospered.  About  the  end 
of  the  17th  century  they  sent  home  a  fine-toned  bell  for 
the  parish  church  steeple.  When  the  gift  arrived  at 
Dundee,  the  magistrates  of  that  place  claimed  it  on  the 
ground  that  it  was  too  good  for  Forfar.  A  struggle 
36 


FORFAR 

took  place,  in  the  course  of  which  the  tongue  of  the 
bell,  said  to  have  been  of  silver,  was  wrenched  out  and 
thrown  into  the  river.  After  a  time  the  Forfar  folk  got 
possession  of  their  property,  but  the  Dundee  magistrates 
refused  to  let  it  be  conveyed  away  unless  the  town  of 
Forfar  bought  all  the  ground  it  would  pass  over  between 
the  quay  and  the  boundary  of  Dundee.  A  large  sum 
had  to  be  paid,  and  the  road  is  known  still  as  Forfar 
Loan.  The  townsfolk  of  Forfar  turned  out  in  holiday 
costume  to  welcome  the  gift  on  its  arrival.  A  new 
tongue  was  not  supplied  for  a  centm-y,  and  even  now 
the  clapper  in  use  is  regarded  as  insufficient  to  bring 
out  the  full  tones  of  the  bell.  Dundee  was  not  the  only 
town  with  which  Forfar  got  at  loggerheads.  The  sutors 
of  Forfar  and  the  weavers  of  Kirriemuir  had  a  long- 
standing feud,  which  often  used  to  result  in  blows. 
Drummond  of  Hawthornden  relates  that,  when  he 
visited  Forfar  in  1648,  he  was  refused  shelter  because 
he  was  a  poet  and  a  royalist.  He  passed  on  to  Kirrie- 
muir, where  they  equally  abhorred  these  two  '  crimes  ;' 
but,  anxious  to  ditt'er  from  the  Forfarians,  they  made 
him  heartily  welcome.  In  return  he  wi'ote  a  quatrain, 
in  which  Kirriemuir  was  praised  and  Forfar  satirised. 
A  body  of  WUliam  of  Orange's  forces,  stationed  at 
Forfar  in  1689,  ate  and  destroyed  all  kinds  of  victual 
to  the  value  of  £8000,  forced  horses,  carts,  and  free 
quarters  to  the  extent  of  £2000  more,  and  left  the  tol- 
booth  and  schoolhouse  in  a  state  of  ruin.  Another 
reminiscence  of  the  'good  old  times'  is  centred  in  a 
specimen  of  the  '  branks '  called  the  witches'  bridle, 
which,  long  preserved  in  the  old  steeple,  is  now  in  the 
public  library.  It  consists  of  a  collar  in  four  sections, 
hinged  so  as  to  enclose  the  neck.  Behind  is  a  short 
chain,  and  in  front  a  prong,  like  the  rowel  of  a  spur, 
projects  inwards,  and  was  fixed  in  the  mouth  to  act  as 
a  gag  at  the  executions.  The  victims  were  led  by  the 
chain  to  the  Witches'  Howe,  a  small  hollow  N  of  the 
town,  where  the  stake  was  erected.  The  bridle  was 
picked  up  from  the  ashes  after  the  execution.  Nine 
women  were  burned  at  Forfar  between  1650  and  1662 ; 
and  '  Johne  Kinked,  pricker  of  the  mtches  in  Trenent,' 
being  brought  to  Forfar,  was  made  a  freeman  of  the 
burgh  just  ten  days  after  that  honour  had  been  con- 
ferred on  a  cadet  of  the  noble  family  of  Keith-Marischal. 
A  highwayman  hanged  on  Balmashanner  HiU  in  1785 
was  the  last  person  executed  in  Scotland  by  sentence  of  a 
sheriff.  Patrick  Abercrombie,  physician  and  historian, 
was  born  at  Forfar  in  1656  ;  and  John  Jamieson,  D.D. 
(1759-1839),  of  '  Scottish  Dictionary '  fame,  was  minister 
of  the  Secession  congregation  from  1780  till  1797.  Archi- 
bald Douglas,  son  of  the  second  Marquis  of  Douglas,  was 
in  1661  created  Earl  of  Forfar,  a  title  which  devolved 
on  the  Drdce  of  Douglas  at  the  death  of  the  second  Earl 
from  seventeen  wounds  received  at  Sheriffmuir  (1715), 
and  with  the  Duke  it  expired  (1761).  One  curious 
thing  in  connection  with  Forfar  is  the  fact  that,  down 
to  1593,  its  market-day  was  Sunday. 

Before  considering  the  present  condition  of  Forfar,  it 
is  interesting  to  look  at  some  details  of  its  peculiarities 
given  in  the  Old  Statistical  Account.  The  minister  of 
the  parish,  writing  there  in  1793,  tells  that  before  1745 
there  were  not  above  seven  tea-kettles  and  the  same 
number  of  watches  and  pairs  of  bellows  in  the  burgh  ; 
while  in  his  time  every  house  had  a  kettle  and  bellows, 
and  'almost  every  menial  must  have  his  watch.'  In 
the  middle  of  last  century,  a  Forfarian  who  bought  a 
shilling's  worth  of  butcher  meat  or  an  ounce  of  tea 
would  hide  the  fact  from  his  neighbours  as  if  he  had 
committed  a  crime.  One  ox,  valued  at  forty  shillings, 
supplied  the  flesh  market  for  a  fortnight,  and  indeed  a 
carcase  was  seldom  killed  unless  most  of  it  were  be- 
spoken. Each  man  buUt  his  house  as  he  chose,  and  the 
town  was  both  irregular  and  dirty.  The  dirtiness  of 
the  burgh  was  the  cause  of  a  murder  on  9  May  1728. 
Charles,  sixth  Earl  of  Strathmore,  was  returning  from  a 
funeral  entertainment  with  a  party  of  gentlemen,  when 
Carnegie  of  Finhaven  was  jostled  by  Lyon  of  Brigton 
into  a  kennel  in  Spout  Street.  He  rose  covered  with 
mud,  and,   making  a  thrust  at  Brigton,  ran  the  Earl 


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FORFAR 

through  the  body,  for  which  he  wa3  tried,  but  acquitted 
through  the  ability  of  his  counsel,  Robert  Dundas  of 
Arniston. 

On  his  progress  to  London  in  1603,  James  VI.,  runs 
the  story,  was  entertained  with  great  magnificence 
by  the  mayor  of  one  of  the  English  burghs ;  and 
some  of  the  English  courtiers  hinted  that  such  open- 
handedness  would  be  rare  in  Scotland.  '  Fient  a  bit  o' 
that,'  said  canny  James,  'the  Provost  o'  my  burgh  o' 
Forfar,  whilk  is  by  no  means  the  largest  town  in  Scot- 
land, keeps  open  house  a'  the  year  round,  and  aye  the 
mae  that  comes  the  welcomer.'  The  provost  kept  an 
alehouse.  It  was  in  Forfar  that  a  neighbour's  cow  drunk 
up  the  browst  which  a  brewster's  wife  had  set  to  the 
door  to  cool.  The  alewife  raised  an  action  against  her 
neighbour,  who  was  assoilzied,  since,  by  immemorial 
custom,  nothing  was  ever  charged  for  a  standing  drink 
or  stirrup-cup.  And  it  was  Forfar  Loch  that  an  Earl  of 
Strathmore  proposed  to  drain,  by  tumbling  a  few  hogs- 
heads of  whisky  into  it,  and  setting  the  '  drucken 
writers  of  Forfar '  to  drink  it  dry. 

In  1526  Boece  speaks  of  Forfar  as  'having  in  time 
past  been  a  notable  citie,  though  now  it  is  brought  to 
little  more  than  a  countrie  village,  replenished  with 
simple  cottages  ; '  down  to  the  middle  of  last  century  its 
'  sinuous  and  Hi-compacted  streets  consisted  chiefly  of 
old  thatched  houses ; '  but  the  Forfar  of  to-day  is  a 
comfortable  and  well-built  town  with  several  good 
public  buildings.  The  High  Street,  with  West  Port, 
extends  irregularly,  from  SW  to  NE,  to  a  length  of 
about  1200  yards.  Castle  Street  branches  off  to  the 
northward,  and  contains  the  sherifli'-court  houses,  built 
in  1869-71.  They  consist  of  a  centi'e  of  two  stories 
with  wings  and  attics,  and  comprise  a  principal  court- 
room 50  feet  long,  33  broad,  and  26  high ;  and  a 
smaller  court-room  21  by  24  feet.  The  old  county 
buildings  were  near  these  courts,  and  were  buUt  about 
1830  at  a  cost  of  nearly  £5000.  In  1869,  after  the  open- 
ing of  the  sheriff-com-t  houses,  they  were  condemned  as 
unsuited  to  their  purposes,  and  a  diiEcnlty  arose  as  to 
what  should  be  done  with  them.  Ultimately  they  were 
pulled  down,  and  new  county  buildings,  designed  by  Jlr 
"Warch'op,  erected  in  their  stead.  They  cost  £4000,  and 
include  a  county  hall  65  by  35  feet,  and  other  apart- 
ments, one  of  them  a  strong-room  for  records.  In  the 
haU  are  portraits  of  the  hero  of  Camperdown  by  Opie, 
of  Henry  Dundas,  Lord  MelviUe,  by  Raeburn,  and 
others.  The  town-hall  is  close  to  the  court-houses, 
and  affords  accommodation  to  the  free  library,  which, 
opened  on  7  Jan.  1871,  contains  4450  volumes.  The 
county  police  station  stands  at  the  E  corner  of  the 
county  buildings,  vnth  which  it  communicates  on  both 
stories.  In  1869  a  hall  for  public  meetings  was  erected 
by  Mr  Peter  Eeid,  of  '  Forfar  Rock  '  celebrity,  at  a  cost 
of  £5000.  Mr  Reid  afterwards  spent  £1000  in  furnish- 
ing and  adorning  the  hall.  During  his  lifetime  he  was 
to  draw  the  revenues  of  the  hall,  keeping  it  in  good  re- 
pair, and  in  June  1874  he  made  a  disposition  by  which 
it  and  all  its  contents  should  go  to  the  town  on  his 
death.  In  Nov.  1870  a  public  meeting  resolved  to 
place  a  marble  bust  of  Mr  Reid  in  the  haU,  and  this 
resolution  was  carried  into  effect,  Mr  J.  Hutchison, 
E.S.A.,  being  the  sculptor.  The  county  prison,  which 
stands  a  little  to  the  northward  of  the  town,  was  erected 
in  1843,  legalised  in  1852,  and  closed  by  order  of  the 
Home  Office  in  1882. 

The  Priory  church  of  Restenneth  served  for  the  parish 
church  tm  1591,  when  a  church  was  built  at  the  town. 
The  present  parish  church  was  built  in  1791,  and,  as 
altered  in  1836,  contains  1800  sittings.  Its  handsome 
spire,  150  feet  high,  was  added  in  1814 ;  and  an  organ 
was  introduced  in  1881.  St  James's  quoad  sacra  church, 
seating  1100  people,  was  buUt  in  1836  at  a  cost  of 
£1200.  Of  two  Free  churches— Forfar  and  East— the 
former  is  a  fine  new  edifice  of  1880-81,  built  in  "West 
High  Street  at  a  cost  of  £5000,  and  containing  1000 
sittings.  The  handsome  United  Presbyterian  church, 
with  500  sittings,  was  built  in  1854  ;  and  the  Inde- 
pendent  chapel,  with  460,  was  built  in  1836  at  a  cost 


FORFAR 

of  about  £650.  The  Episcopal  church  of  St  John  tha 
Evangelist,  in  East  High  Street,  is  in  the  Early  English 
stj'le,  and  was  erected  in  1879-81,  at  a  cost  of  £12,000, 
from  designs  by  Mr  R.  R.  Anderson.  It  consists  of  a 
nave  (90  feet  by  31),  with  a  N  aisle  (74  x  18|  feet)  and 
a  chancel  (42J  x  21J  feet).  The  spire  at  the  extremity 
is  incomplete,  40  feet  only  of  the  projected  163  having 
been  constructed.  The  height  of  the  church  to  the  apex 
of  the  nave  is  42  feet,  and  the  building  is  seated  for  600. 
The  organ,  by  Conagher,  stands  in  a  chamber  24  by  12 
feet,  and  the  case,  like  the  pulpit  and  choir  stalls,  is  of 
carved  oak.  This  is  the  third  Episcopal  church  in 
Forfar  since  1775.  At  the  Revolution  of  1688  the  Epis- 
copalians were  not  ejected  from  the  parish  church,  but 
remained  till  the'  beginning  of  the  18th  century,  and 
communion  was  administered  there  by  them  at  Christmas 
and  Easter  till  1721.  After  that,  service  was  unin- 
terruptedly held  in  the  old  Priory  church  of  Restenneth, 
and  after  1745  in  houses  in  secret  till  1775,  when  a  church 
wa-s  built.  This  building  still  stands,  but  it  was  only 
occupied  by  the  Episcopal  congregation  till  1822,  when 
Dean  Skinner  built  the  church  that  was  pulled  down 
in  1879  to  make  room  for  the  present  one.  A  Baptist 
chapel  in  Manor  Street  is  an  Early  Gothic  edifice,  built 
in  1876  at  a  cost  of  £1700,  and  containing  400  sittings. 
In  1881  the  following  were  the  six  schools  under  the 
burgh  school-board,  with  accommodation,  average  at- 
tendance, and  Government  grant : — Academy  (534,  238, 
£199,  13s.),  East  (300,  296,  £259),  Forfar  (273,  186, 
£155),  Industrial  (184,  94,  £63,  7s.),  North  (300,  300, 
£262,  6s.),  WeUbraehead  (280,  250,  £177,  7s.),  and 
"West  (300,  269,  £229,  2s.  6d.). 

There  are  in  the  burgh,  an  infirmary,  a  choral  union, 
a  subscription  library  (founded  1795),  a  mechanics' 
reading-room,  horticultural,  building,  debating,  golf, 
angling,  cricket,  bowling,  and  other  societies  and  clubs, 
including  two  good  templar  lodges.  A  fine  cemetery, 
11  acres  in  extent,  to  the  southward  of  the  town,  was 
opened  in  1850,  and  contains  a  monument,  erected  in 
1852  by  subscription,  to  Sir  Robert  Peel.  The  figure 
stands  upon  a  large  pedestal,  and  is  surmounted  by  a 
dome  upborne  on  eight  pillars.  The  architect  was  Mr 
James  Maclaren  of  Dundee,  and  the  sculptor  Mr  Wm. 
Anderson  of  Perth.  The  gas-works  are  managed  by  the 
corporation ;  and  a  fh-st-class  supply  of  gravitation  water 
was  introduced  into  the  town  in  1881. 

As  regards  manufactures  Forfar  makes  a  small  show 
compared  with  other  towns  in  the  county.  Coarse 
linen  and  jute  manufacture,  tanning,  and  one  or  two 
minor  industries  practically  exhaust  the  catalogue.  In 
old  days  Forfar  was  famous  for  the  manufacture  of 
wooden  soled  shoes  or  brogues,  from  which  arises  the 
appellation  'the  sutors  of  Forfar,'  above  alluded  to. 
There  are  three  incorporated  trades  —  glovers,  shoe- 
makers, and  tailors,  that  of  the  shoemakers  being  the 
most  ancient. 
The  incorpora- 
tion of  weavers 
was  abolished  by 
an  Act  of  Parlia- 
ment for  the  im- 
provement of  the 
linen  trade.  For- 
far has  a  post 
office,  withmoney 
order,  savings' 
bank,  insurance, 
and  telegraph 
departments, 
branches  of  the 
Bank  of  Scotland 
and  of  the  Royal, 
British  Linen, 
National,  Union,  Seal  of  Forfar, 

and   Commercial 

Banks,  a  National  Security  savings'  bank,  26  insur- 
ance agencies,  5  hotels,  and  a  Friday  Liberal  paper, 
the  Forfar  Herald  (1878).  The  burgh  is  governed  by  a 
provost,  3  bailies,  a  treasurer,  and  10  councillors,  who 

37 


FORFAR 

also  act  as  police  commissioners.  The  regular  courts  are 
the  burgh  or  bailie  courts,  and  the  burgh  police  court. 
Forfar  unites  with  Mo^'TKOSE,  Arbroath,  Brechin,  and 
Eervie  to  return  a  member  to  parliament,  its  parlia- 
mentary and  municipal  constituency  being  1452  in  1882. 
The  corporation  revenue  was  £3094  in  1881.  Annual 
value  of  real  property  (1866)  £17,434,  (1876)  £28,255, 
(1882)  £34,080,  16s.  3d.,  ^jZus £1919  for  railways.  Pop. 
of  royal  burgh  (1881)  13,579  ;  of  parliamentary  burgh 
(1841)  8362,  (1851)  9311,  (1861)  9258,  (1871)  11,031, 
(1881)  12,817,  of  whom  6686  were  males,  and  7131 
females.  Houses  (1881)  2868  inhabited,  69  vacant,  15 
building. 

The  parish  of  Forfar,  containing  also  Lunanhead, 
Carseburn,  and  Kingsmuir  hamlets,  IJ  mUe  NE,  IJ 
NNE,  and  If  SE  of  the  town,  is  bounded  N  by  Rescobie, 
E  by  Rescobie  and  Dunnichen,  S  by  Inverarity,  SW  by 
Kinnettles,  W  by  Kinnettles  and  Glamis,  and  NW  by 
Kirriemuir.  Its  utmost  length,  from  N  to  S,  is  4| 
miles  ;  its  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  varies  between  2J  and 
4i  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  8379^  acres,  of  which  26J  are 
water.  Loch  Fithie  (3i  x  J  furl. ),  2  miles  ENE  of  the 
town,  is  a  pretty  little  sheet  of  water,  with  wooded 
rising  banks  ;  Restenneth  Loch,  near  Lunanhead,  was 
drained  many  j'ears  ago  for  its  marl.  Streams  there  are 
none  of  any  consequence ;  but  the  drainage  is  partly 
carried  eastward  to  the  Lunan,  and  partly  westward  to 
Dean  "Water.  The  surface,  all  part  of  Strathmore  or  the 
Howe  of  Angus,  is  flat  to  the  N  of  the  town,  sinking 
little  below,  and  little  exceeding,  200  feet  above  sea- 
level,  but  rises  southwards  to  672  feet  at  Balmashanner 
Hill  and  761  near  Lour.  The  rocks  are  Devonian, 
lower  or  Forfarshire  flagstones ;  and  the  soil  is  mainly 
a  fertile  loam.  There  are  traces  of  a  '  Pictish  camp  '  at 
Restenneth,  and  of  a  '  Roman  camp '  a  little  more  than 
i  mile  NE  of  the  town,  the  latter  '  capable  of  holding 
upwards  of  26,000  men  ; '  but  Restenneth  Priory  is  the 
chief  antiquity.  This  is  noticed  separately,  as  also  is 
the  only  mansion.  Lorn'  House.  Eight  proprietors  hold 
each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  28  of 
between  £100  and  £500,  37  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and 
123  of  from  £20  to  £50.  The  seat  of  a  presbytery  in 
the  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns,  this  parish  is  eccle- 
siastically divided  into  Forfar  proper  and  St  James's 
quoad  sacra  parish,  the  former  a  living  worth  £540. 
Two  landward  public  schools,  Kingsmuir  and  Lunan- 
head, with  respective  accommodation  for  80  and  120 
children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  69  and  89, 
and  grants  of  £58,  17s.  and  £77,  8s.  6d.  Valuation 
(1857)  £7955,  (1882)  £12,346,  16s.  lid.,  ^jfes  £3701  for 
raCways.  Pop.  (1801)  6167,  (1831)  7049,  (1861)  10,838, 
(1871)  12,585,  (1881)  14,470,  of  whom  3882  were  in  St 
James's,  and  10,588  in  Forfar  ecclesiastical  parish. — 
Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  67,  1868. 

The  presbytery  of  Forfar  comprehends  the  quoad 
civilia  parishes  of  Forfar,  Aberlemno,  Cortachy,  Dun- 
nichen,  Glamis,  Inverarity,  Kinnettles,  Kirriemuir, 
Oathlaw,  Rescobie,  and  Taunadice,  the  quoad  sacra 
parishes  of  Clova,  Forfar  St  James,  Kirriemuir-South, 
and  Glenprosen.  Pop.  (1871)  27,694,  (1881)  35,201,  of 
whom  8429  were  communicants  of  the  Church  of  Scot- 
land in  1878. — The  Free  Church  also  has  a  presbytery 
of  Forfar,  with  2  churches  in  Forfar,  2  in  Kirriemuir, 
and  4  in  respectively  Aberlemno,  Dunnichen,  Kin- 
nettles, and  ilemus,  which  eight  had  together  2140 
communicants  in  1881. 

Forfar  and  Arbroath  Railway.  See  Aebeoath  axd 
FoEFAK  Railway. 

Forfarshire,  a  large  maritime  and  agricultural  comity, 
nearly  corresponding  to  the  ancient  district  of  Angus, 
occupies  the  south-eastern  corner  of  the  central  penin- 
sula of  Scotland,  having  for  its  seaboard  the  Firth  of 
Tay  on  the  S,  and  the  German  Ocean  on  the  E,  and  for 
its  inland  boundaries,  on  the  NE  Kincardineshire,  on 
the  N  Aberdeenshire,  and  on  the  W  Perthshire'  Its 
limits  are,  on  the  S,  Dundee,  56°  27' ;  on  the  N,  Mount 
Keen,  56°  58',  N  latitude :  and  on  the  E,  the  Ness, 
near  Montrose,  2°  26';  on  the  W,  at  Blacklunans,  3°  24', 
longitude  \V  of  Greenwich.  Eleventh  in  point  of  size 
38 


FORFARSHIRE 

of  the  counties  of  Scotland,  it  has  an  utmost  length 
from  N  to  S  of  36  miles,  an  utmost  width  from  E  to  W 
of  36  J  miles,  and  an  area  of  890  square  miles  or  569,840 
acres,  of  which  6486  are  foreshore  and  3178  water.  It 
is  divided  into  four  well-marked  natural  divisions — the 
shore  district,  consisting  chiefly  of  sandy  dunes  and 
links,  37  miles  long,  with  a  breadth  of  from  3  to  8  miles  ; 
the  range  of  the  Sidlaw  HUls,  22  miles  long  by  3  to  6 
miles  broad;  Strathmore,  the  '  great  valley, '  otherwise 
called  the  Iforve  of  Angus,  32  miles  by  4  to  6  miles 
broad  ;  and  the  hilly  district  or  Braes  of  Angus,  rising 
into  the  Grampian  range,  and  measm-ing  24  mUes  by 
5  to  9  miles  broad. 

The  Grampian  district  foiTQS  the  north-western  divi- 
sion, and  includes  about  two-fifths  of  the  superficial 
area.  Like  the  rest  of  the  range,  the  Grampian  moun- 
tains here  run  from  SW  to  NE,  forming  the  barrier 
between  the  Highlands  and  the  Lowlands  of  Scotland  ; 
and  exhibit  ridge  behind  ridge,  with  many  intervening 
valleys  cut  out  by  streams  and  torrents,  tUl  they  form, 
at  their  water-line  or  highest  ridge,  the  boundary  line 
of  the  coimty.  The  portions  of  them  included  in  For- 
farshire are  called  the  Benchinnin  Mountains  ;  and, 
viewed  in  the  group,  are  far  from  possessing  either  the 
grandeur  of  the  alpine  districts  of  the  West,  or  the 
picturesqueness  and  beauty  of  the  highlands  of  the 
South.  From  the  higher  summits  of  the  Grampians,  a 
brilliant  view  is  obtained,  not  only  of  Forfarshire  and 
part  of  Perthshire,  but  of  Fife,  East  Lothian,  and  the 
heights  of  Lammermuir. 

The  Strathmore  district  of  Forfarshire  is  part  of  the 
gi'eat  vaUey  of  that  name,  and  stretches  from  the  western 
boundary  of  the  parish  of  Kettins,  away  north-eastward 
through  the  whole  county,  to  the  lower  part  of  the 
North  Esk.  From  its  northern  point  south-westward 
it  lies  along  the  foot  of  the  Forfarshire  Grampians,  till 
it  forms  the  parish  of  Airlie  ;  and  it  thenceforth,  till 
the  termination  of  the  parish  of  Kettins,  shares  the  con- 
tinuation of  Strathmore  with  Perthshh'e.  Its  sm-face  is 
beautifully  diversified  by  gentle  eminences,  fertile  fields, 
plantations,  villages,  and  gentlemen's  seats.  Small  por- 
tions of  it  are  covered  with  water  during  wet  seasons, 
and,  in  other  respects,  have  perhaps  not  received  due 
attention  from  the  cultivators  of  the  soil. 

The  Sidlaw  district  of  Forfarshire  derives  its  distinc- 
tive features  from  the  Sidlaw  Hills.  These  are  a  con- 
tinuation or  offshoot  of  a  range  which  runs  parallel 
to  Strathmore  or  the  Grampians,  from  the  HUl  of  Kin- 
nouU  near  Perth,  to  the  NE  extremity  of  Kincardine- 
shu'e.  Seen  from  Fifeshire,  the  Sidlaws  appear  to  rise 
at  no  great  distance  from  the  estuary  of  the  Tay,  and 
shut  out  from  view  the  scenery  of  Strathmore  and  the 
lower  Grampians.  They  culminate  in  Auchterhouse  Hill 
at  an  altitude  of  1399  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  ;  and 
in  some  places  are  covered  with  stunted  heath,  while  in 
others,  they  are  cultivated  to  the  top.  The  Sidlaw  dis- 
trict terminates  at  Red  Head,  a  promontory  on  the 
coast,  in  the  parish  of  Inverkeilor,  between  Arbroath 
and  Montrose.  From  some  of  the  detached  liQls, 
respectively  on  the  north-western  and  the  south-eastern 
sides  of  the  range,  brilliant  views  are  obtained,  on  the 
one  hand,  of  the  whole  extent  of  Strathmore,  and,  on 
the  other,  of  the  scenery  along  the  Firth  of  Tay  and  the 
German  Ocean. 

The  maritime  district  of  Forfarshire  is,  for  a  brief 
way,  in  the  parish  of  Inverkeilor,  identified  with  the 
Sidlaw  district,  but  extends  from  the  Tay  and  the 
limits  of  Liff  and  Lundie  on  the  S  to  near  the  mouth  of 
the  North  Esk  on  the  N.  In  its  southern  part,  it  is  at 
first  of  very  considerable  breadth ;  but  it  gradually 
narrows  as  it  becomes  pent  up  between  the  Sidlaw  HOls 
and  the  ocean  ;  and,  overleaping  the  former,  it  thence 
stretches  northward  parallel  to  the  Howe  of  Angus. 
'This  district  is,  with  a  few  exceptions,  fertile  and 
highly  ciUtivated.  Excepting  a  few  rounded  jutting 
hills — some  of  which  are  designated  by  the  Gaelic  name 
of  Dun — its  surface  slopes  gently  to  the  Firth  of  Tay  on 
the  S,  and  the  German  Ocean  on  the  E.  At  Broughty 
Ferry,  where  the  Firth  of  Tay  is  very  much  contracted, 


FOEFARSHIKE 

an  extensive  tract  of  links  or  sandy  downs  commences, 
and  thence  sweeps  along  a  great  part  of  the  parishes  of 
Jlonifieth  and  Barry.  Two  other  sandy  tracts  of  incon- 
siderable breadth  str-eteh  along  the  coast  respectively 
betAVeen  Panbride  and  Arbroath,  and  between  the 
embouchures  of  the  South  Esk  and  the  North  Esk.  In 
many  places  these  doAvns  evince,  by  extensive  beds  of 
marine  shells,  at  heights  ranging  from  20  to  40  feet, 
that  they  were  at  one  period  covered  with  the  sea.  The 
maritime  district  is  adorned  with  towns  and  villages, 
elegant  villas  and  comfortable  farm-steads,  numerous 
plantations,  and,  in  general,  ample  results  of  successful 
culture  and  busy  enterprise. 

The  Tay,  though  it  expands  into  an  estuary  12  miles 
before  touching  the  county,  and  cannot,  while  it  washes 
its  shores,  be  considered  as  a  river,  is  greatly  more 
valuable  to  Forfarshire  than  all  its  interior  waters. 
Sandbanks  in  various  places  menace  its  navigation,  but 
are  rendered  nearly  innocuous  by  means  of  Eghthouses 
and  other  appliances.  From  the  mouth  of  the  Tay  to 
near  Westhaven,  the  coast  on  the  German  Ocean  is 
sandy  ;  and  thence  north-eastn'ard  to  near  Arbroath,  it 
cannot  safely  be  approached  on  accoimt  of  low,  and,  in 
many  cases,  sunken  rocks.  At  a  distance  of  11 J  miles 
SE  of  Arbroath,  the  Bell  Eock  Lighthouse  Ufts  its 
fine  form  above  the  bosom  of  the  ocean.  A  mile  north- 
eastward of  Arbroath  the  coast  becomes  bold  and  rocky, 
breaking  down  in  perpendicular  precipices,  and,  in  many 
places,  perforated  at  the  base  with  long  deep  caverns, 
whose  floors  are  boisterously  washed  by  the  billows  of 
the  sea.  The  Red  Head,  a  rocky  promontory,  267  feet 
in  almost  sheer  ascent,  terminates  this  bold  section  of 
the  coast,  as  it  does  the  inland  range  of  the  Sidlaws. 
Lunan  Bay  now,  with  a  small  sweep  inward,  presents 
for  nearly  3  miles  a  fine  sandy  shore,  and  offers  a  safe 
anchorage.  The  coast  again  becomes  rocky  and  bold  as 
far  as  to  the  mouth  of  the  South  Esk ;  and  thence  to 
the  extremity  of  the  county,  it  is  low  and  sandy. 

At  Beoughty  Feery  there  is  a  rocky  promontory  on 
which  stands  Broughty  Castle,  and  from  this  point  to 
the  boundary  of  Perth  on  the  "W  the  coast-line  is  flat 
and  aUuviah  Excepting  a  cantle  cut  out  on  the  TV  by 
Perthshii'e,  the  county  is  nearly  square,  and  lines  inter- 
secting the  limit  points  named  meet  near  Shielhill 
Bridge  in  the  parish  of  Tannadice,  where 
*  The  waters  of  Prosen,  Esk,  and  Carity 
Meet  at  the  birken  bush  of  Inverquharity.* 

The  surface  of  Forfarshire  is  much  diversified.  Along 
the  northern  and  western  boundaries  extends  the  Gram- 
pian range,  having  Glas  Maol  (3502)  as  the  highest 
point,  with  upwards  of  sixty  peaks  exceeding  2000  feet. 
The  Sidlaw  Hills,  on  the  S  of  the  great  glen,  form 
a  picturesque  element  in  the  scenery  of  the  county. 
These  are  verdant  hills,  with  a  maximum  height  of  1399 
feet  at  Auchterhouse  HUl,  and  run  down  gradually  to 
the  eastward,  where  the  range  is  cultivated  to  the  top. 
Principal  summits  in  the  Grampian  range  are  Cairn  na 
Glasher  (34S4  feet),  Cairn  Bannoch  (3314),  Broad  Cairn 
(326S),  Tolmount  (3143),  Driesh  (3105),  Mount  Keen 
(3077),  idayar  (3043),  Fiualty  (2954),  Braidcairn  (2907), 
Ben  Tirran  (2939),  "White  Hill  (2544),  Carn  Aighe  (2S24), 
Bonstie  Ley  (2S68),  Monamenach  (2649),  Mount  Bat- 
tock  (2555),  Black  HUl  (2469),  Hill  of  Cat  (2435),  Cairn 
Inks  (2483),  East  Cairn  (2518),  Mount  Blair  (2441), 
Cock  Cairn  (23S7),  West  Knock  (2300),  the  HlH  of 
Wirren  (2220),  The  Bulg  (1986),  Naked  Tarn  (1607), 
and  the  White  Caterthun  (976).  In  the  Sidlaw  HiUs, 
theGallowhm(1242feet),  Gash  (1141),  Keiaor(1088),and 
Hayston  HUl  (1034)  are  notable.  Dundee  Law,  over- 
looking the  town,  is  571  feet  in  height.  In  the  Braes 
of  Angus  the  county  presents  much  that  is  grand  and 
characteristic  in  hUl  scenery  ;  and  in  the  southern  parts 
the  finely-wooded  and  richly-cultivated  landscape  pre- 
sents great  beauty  and  attractiveness.  The  lochs  of  the 
county,  as  weU  as  its  rivers,  are  insignificant  in  view  of 
the  large  district  drained,  the  course  of  the  streams 
being  necessarily  short,  as  from  the  position  of  the 
watershed  the  comity  receives  no  streams  from  other 
districts,  whUe  it  gi<res  off  some  that  increase  in  bulk 


FORFARSHIRE 

before  augmenting  the  Tay,  which  reckons  as  a  Perth- 
shire river.  Two  mountain  burns,  the  Lee  and  the 
Eunoch  or  Unich,  unite  in  Lochlee  parish.  If  mUo 
above  the  lake  of  that  name,  which,  measuring  9  by  2J 
furlongs,  is  '  a  wild  lake  closed  in  by  mountains.'  The 
Lee,  flomng  from  the  loch,  joins  the  Mark  at  Invermark, 
forming  the  North  Esk,  a  stream  which,  after  a  course 
of  29  miles,  falls  into  the  German  Ocean,  and  traces, 
during  the  last  15  mUes  of  its  course,  the  boundary 
between  Forfar  and  Kincardine.  Its  principal  afSuent 
in  the  county  is  West  Water,  rising  in  Lethnot  parish, 
and  joining  the  Esk  at  Stracathro.  The  South  Esk, 
rising  in  Clova,  has  a  course  of  48  j  mUes,  and  runs  into 
Montrose  Basin.  In  its  upper  course  it  is  a  moimtain 
stream,  but,  after  receiving  its  principal  tributaries,  it 
runs  due  E  through  Strathmore  as  a  quiet  lowland 
river.  Parallel  with  its  upper  course  is  Glen  Prosen, 
whence  the  South  Esk  receives  Prosen  Water.  The  other 
main  afSuents  are  the  Carity,  the  Noran,  the  Lemno, 
and  the  Pow.  Further  is  the  beautiful  valley  of  Glen 
Isla,  where  the  Isla  has  its  rise.  One-third  of  the  total 
course  of  this  stream  is  in  Perthshire,  where  it  joins  the 
Tay,  after  receiving  the  waters  of  many  small  streams. 
On  the  Isla  is  a  waterfall  of  80  feet,  the  '  Reeky  Linn,' 
so  called  from  the  cloud  of  spray  constantly  thrown  up  ; 
and  further  down  are  the  Slugs  of  Auchrannie,  a  dark 
channel  where  the  river  runs  between  steep  rocks.  One 
affluent  of  the  Isla,  the  Dean,  issues  from  Fokfae  Loch ; 
and  one  of  the  Dean's  tributaries,  the  Arity,  presents  the 
peculiarity  of  rising  within  7  miles  of  the  mouth  of  the 
Tay,  and  running  a  course  of  70  mUes  before  it  falls 
into  the  German  Ocean.  The  smaUer  streams  flowing 
direct  to  the  sea  embrace  the  Lunan,  running  into  the 
bay  of  that  name,  the  Brothock,  the  EUiot,  the  Dighty, 
rising  in  the  Lochs  of  Lundie  and  receiving  the  Fithie,  all 
of  which  reach  the  ocean  between  Arbroath  and  Broughty 
Ferry.  The  lochs  and  streams  of  Forfarshire  afford  excel- 
lent sport  for  the  angler.  The  North  Esk  yields  salmon, 
sea-trout,  and  common  trout,  the  net  fishings  being  very 
valuable,  as  many  as  700  or  800  salmon  being  taken  on 
the  first  day  of  the  season.  The  South  Esk  and  its  tri- 
butaries yield  trout,  while  salmon  are  also  plentiful 
from  Brechin  downwards,  but  the  latter  are  strictly 
preserved.  The  Isla,  both  in  its  Forfarshire  and  its 
Perthshire  sections,  receives  a  high  character  from  Mr 
Watson  Lyall  in  his  Sportsman's  Chiide ;  salmon  pene- 
trate to  the  Slugs  of  Auchrannie,  and  up  to  this  point 
there  are  heavy  pike  and  trout  of  very  fine  quality. 
Above  the  Reekie  Linn  the  stream  yields  first-rate  sport. 
Loch  Wharral,  in  the  same  locality,  is  abundant  in  good 
small  trout.  Loch  Brandy,  situated  amidst  wild  and 
beautiful  scenery,  2070  feet  above  sea-level,  is  uncertain, 
but  frequently  gives  good  sport.  Loch  Esk,  in  Clova, 
affords  large  but  shy  trout.  Dun's  Dish,  an  artificial 
loch  near  Bridge  of  Dun,  and  private  property,  yields 
perch.  Forfar  Loch  is  famous  for  large  pike  and  perch, 
the  former  running  to  30  lbs.  on  occasion.  Loch  Lee, 
the  largest  in  the  county,  yields  trout  of  two  kinds  and 
char  in  abundance.  The  Lochs  of  Lundie,  in  the  parish 
of  Lundie,  belong  to  Lord  Camperdown,  and  yield  perch 
and  pike.  The  reservoirs  of  Monikie  have  been  stocked 
with  Loch  Leven  and  other  trout,  and  yield  fair  sport. 
Loch  Kescobie  yields  perch,  pike,  and  eels,  and  is  open 
to  the  public.  The  county  contains  several  notable  deer 
forests,  including  those  of  Clova,  Caanloohan,  Bachna- 
gairn,  and  Invermark.  In  the  latter  the  Mark  stream 
flows,  and  at  the  '  Queen's  WeU, '  formerly  the  TFliiie 
Well,  and  now  named  in  commemoration  of  the  fact  of 
Queen  Victoria  and  the  Prince  Consort  having  rested 
and  lunched  here  in  Sept.  1861  in  travelling  from 
Balmoral  to  Invermark  Lodge,  the  Earl  of  Dalhousie 
has  erected  a  handsome  monument  of  three  open  crossed 
arches  resembling  a  Scottish  crown.  It  bears  an  in- 
scription in  imitation  of  that  in  Marmion — 
*  Rest,  weary  traveller,  on  this  lonely  green. 
And  drink  and  pray  for  Scotland's  Queen.' 

The  Queen  describes  the  scene  as  very  grand  and  wUd, 
the  '  Ladder  Burn, '  running  down  a  steep  and  winding 
path,  as  '  very  fine  and  verv  striking.' 

39 


FOQFARSEntE 

Geology. — The  county  of  Forfar  is  divided  into  two 
distinct  geological  areas  by  a  line  drawn  from  Lintrathen 
Loch  NE  by  Gortachy  Castle  to  near  Edzell.  The  tract 
lying  to  the  W  of  this  line  is  occupied  by  metamorphosed 
Silurian  strata  ;  while  to  the  E,  the  Old  Red  Sandstone 
formation  stretches  across  Strathmore  and  the  chain  of 
the  Sidlaws  to  the  sea  coast. 

The  Silurian  rocks  occurring  along  the  margin  of  the 
Old  Red  Sandstone  area  are  comparatively  unaltered, 
consisting  mainlj'  of  grey  and  green  clay  slates  with 
occasional  pebbly  grits.  These  beds  are  inclined  to  the 
NW,  but  as  we  ascend  the  valleys  of  the  Isla,  the 
Prosen,  and  South  Esk,  they  are  thrown  into  a  great 
synclinal  fold,  and  they  re-appear  in  a  highly  altered 
form  with  a  SE  dip.  In  their  metamorphosed  condition 
they  consist  of  mica  schists  and  gneiss,  with  bands  of 
pebbly  quartzite  which  are  well  displayed  on  the  Braes 
of  Angus.  Beyond  the  area  occupied  by  these  stratified 
rocks,  a  great  mass  of  granite  stretches  from  Cairn  Ban- 
noeh  to  Mount  Battock.  along  the  confines  of  Forfarshire 
and  Aberdeenshire. 

The  Old  Red  Sandstone  of  Forfarshire  has  long  been 
celebrated  for  the  fishes  and  eurypterids  found  in  the 
shales  and  flagstones.  The  recent  discovery  of  myriapods 
in  the  same  strata  has  tended  to  increase  the  interest  in 
the  history  of  this  formation  as  developed  in  the  county. 
The  researches  of  Lyell,  Woodward,  Lankester,  Po\vrie, 
Page,  Mitchell,  and  others,  have  amply  revealed  the 
nature  of  the  organisms  which  flourished  during  that 
ancient  period.  The  fossils  occur  on  two  distinct 
horizons,  the  position  of  which  has  now  been  accurately 
defined.  But  apart  from  the  interesting  series  of  organic 
remains,  this  formation  claims  attention  on  account  of 
its  remarkable  development  in  Forfarshire  and  Kincar- 
dineshire. The  total  thickness  of  the  Lower  Old  Red 
Sandstone  in  these  two  counties  cannot  be  less  than 
20,000  feet,  and  yet  neither  the  top  nor  the  base  of  the 
series  is  visible.  This  vast  series  was  deposited  on  the 
bed  of  an  inland  sheet  of  water  to  which  the  name  of 
Lake  Caledonia  has  been  applied  by  Professor  A.  Geikie. 
The  northern  margin  of  that  ancient  lake  was  defined 
by  the  Grampian  chain,  and  even  during  the  deposition 
of  the  highest  members  of  the  series,  a  portion  of  that 
tableland  must  have  remained  above  the  water.  One  of 
the  most  interesting  phases  of  that  period  was  the  dis- 
play of  volcanic  activity  which  gave  rise  to  great  sheets 
of  lavas  and  ashes,  the  igneous  materials  being  regularly 
interbedded  with  the  sedimentary  strata.  The  volcanic 
series  attains  its  greatest  development  in  Perthshire,  as 
will  be  shown  in  the  description  of  the  geology  of  that 
county. 

The  geological  structure  of  the  area  occupied  by  the 
Lower  Old  Red  Sandstone  of  Forfarshire  is  comparatively 
simple.  Two  great  flexures,  which  can  be  ti-aced  far 
into  Perthshire  on  the  one  side,  and  into  Kincardine- 
shire on  the  other,  cross  the  county  in  a  SW  and  NE 
direction.  In  Strathmore,  the  strata  form  a  synclinal 
trough,  the  axis  of  which  extends  from  the  mouth  of 
the  burn  of  Alyth  to  Stracathro,  and  in  the  centre  of 
this  basin  the  highest  beds  in  the  county  are  exposed. 
Again  the  chain  of  the  Sidlaws  coincides  with  a  great 
anticlinal  fold  which  brings  to  the  surface  the  oldest 
members  of  this  formation  in  the  county.  It  ought  to 
be  remembered,  however,  that  in  the  Lower  Old  Red 
Sandstone  of  Perthshire  we  find  strata  which  occupy  a 
higher  horizon.  A  line  drawn  from  the  neighbourhood 
of  Longforgan  NE  to  Montrose,  marks  the  crest  of  the 
arch  referred  to,  from  which  the  strata  dip  in  opposite 
directions  at  angles  varying  from  10°  to  15°.  The  oldest 
beds,  consisting  of  brown  and  grey  sandstones,  flag- 
stones, and  shales,  are  exposed  along  the  crest  of  the 
anticline  between  Longforgan  and  Leysmills  E  of 
Friockheim.  The  well-known  Arbroath  paving  stones 
belong  to  this  horizon,  but  perhaps  the  most  con- 
spicuous member  of  this  sub-division  is  a  thin  band  of 
shale  from  1  to  3  feet  thick  forming  the  lower  fish  bed. 
It  can  be  traced  along  the  NW  side  of  the  axial  fold 
from  Balruddery  Den  to  Tealing,  and  on  the  SE  side 
from  Duntrune  by  Carmyllie  to  Leysmills.  At  all  these 
40 


FOEFARSHIBE 

localities  it  has  yielded  fish  remains,  huge  eurypterids, 
myriapods,  and  fragments  of  land  plants.  The  strata 
just  described  are  succeeded  on  both  sides  of  the  arch 
by  the  members  of  the  volcanic  series  consisting  of  thick 
sheets  of  diabase-porphyrite  which  are  interbedded  with 
sandstones,  flags,  and  thin  bands  of  conglomerate.  These 
ancient  lavas  are  the  northern  prolongations  of  the  vol- 
canic series  of  the  OchUs.  Though  they  form  pro- 
minent ridges  in  the  Sidlaws,  their  thickness  is  insig- 
nificant when  compared  with  their  development  in  the 
former  range. 

The  volcanic  series  is  conformably  overlaid  along  the 
NW  side  of  the  arch  by  sandstones  and  conglomerates 
containing  an  important  band  of  shales  and  a  bed  of 
cornstone.  This  band  of  shales  which  constitutes  the 
Upper  or  Turin  fish  bed  has  been  traced  from  Turin 
Hill  NE  by  Farnell  to  Cauterland  in  Kincardineshire — 
a  distance  of  14  miles.  Similar  organic  remains  to  those 
already  described  have  been  obtained  from  this  bed  at 
these  three  localities.  The  members  of  this  subdivision 
are  inclined  to  the  NW  at  angles  varying  from  10°  to 
15°,  and  this  dip  continues  till  the  centre  of  the  basin 
is  reached  near  Tannadice,  where  the  highest  beds  in 
the  county  are  exposed,  consisting  of  red  sandy  marls. 
Though  the  latter  resemble  some  of  the  strata  belonging 
to  the  Upper  Old  Red  Sandstone,  they  are  in  reality 
only  a  conformable  portion  of  the  lower  division.  At 
Coranside,  N  of  Tannadice,  they  occupy  a  strip  of  ground 
about  2  miles  broad,  but  when  followed  to  the  NE,  the 
basin  gradually  widens  till  at  the  county  boundary  the 
sandy  marls  cover  an  area  about  3  mUes  in  breadth. 
They  'tail  ofi','  however,  near  Tannadice,  and  the  under- 
lying sandstones  and  conglomerates  occupy  the  centre 
of  the  syncline  till  we  pass  westwards  to  Alyth,  where 
the  sandy  marls  re-appear  and  are  well  developed  in  the 
Tay  at  Stanley. 

Along  the  northern  margin  of  the  trough  the  strata 
rise  rapidly  to  the  surface.  They  are  inclined  at  high 
angles  owing  to  the  great  fault  which  runs  along  the 
flanks  of  the  Grampians  from  Stonehaven  to  the  Firth 
of  Clyde.  Throughout  a  great  part  of  its  course  this 
dislocation  throws  the  Old  Red  Sandstone  against  the 
crystalline  rocks  of  the  Highlands,  but  between  Cor- 
tachy  in  Forfarshire  and  Crietf  in  Perthshire,  it  traverses 
the  Old  Red  Sandstone  area.  In  the  latter  case  it 
brings  different  members  of  this  formation  against  each 
other.  At  various  localities  between  Cortachy  and  the 
county  boundary  near  Edzell,  the  position  of  the  fault 
is  admirably  defined.  The  coarse  conglomerates  and 
sandstones  underlying  the  red  sandy  marls  are  tilted 
against  the  Silurian  clay  slates  at  angles  varying  from 
60°  to  80°.  The  same  high  angle  is  observable  on  the 
E  side  of  the  dislocation  where  it  traverses  the  Old  Red 
Sandstone  W  of  Cortachy,  particularly  in  the  river  Isla 
at  Airlie  Castle.  On  the  W  side  of  the  fault  between 
Cortachy  and  the  Isla  and  onwards  to  the  Tay  the  vol- 
canic series  reappears  dipping  to  the  SE  at  comparatively 
low  angles.  The  members  of  this  series  rest  unconfor- 
mably  on  the  Silurian  rocks,  but  difler  considerably  in 
character  from  their  representatives  in  the  Sidlaws  and 
the  Ochils,  Instead  of  great  sheets  of  porphyrite  and 
tuffs  we  have  massive  trappean  conglomerates  with  thin 
beds  of  lava.  This  difference  is  readily  accounted  for 
by  their  proximity  to  the  margin  of  the  ancient  lake. 
Even  the  strata,  which  immediately  underlie  the  red 
sandy  marls  W  of  Tannadice  and  Stracathro,  are  more 
markedly  conglomeratic  than  the  beds  occupying  the 
same  horizon  on  the  E  side  of  the  trough. 

The  following  list  comprises  the  fossUs  obtained  from 
the  two  fish  beds  of  Forfarshire : — (Fishes),  AcantTwdes 
Mitclielli,  Diplacanthus  gracilis,  Euthacanthus  M'NicoU, 
E.  gracilis,  E.  elegans,  E.  grandis,  E.  curtus,  Parcxiis 
incurvus,  P.  falcatiis,  C'limatius  rcticulatus,  C.  tincijiatus, 
C.  scutiger,  Ccjyhalopterus  Paget,  Pteraspis  Mitchelli, 
Eucephalaspis  Lyellii,  E.  Powrei,  E.  Pagei,  E.  asper, 
Scaphaspis  Loydii.  (Eurypterids),  Pterygotus  Anglicus, 
P.  minor,  Stylonurus  Powrei,  S.  Scoticus,  S.  ensiformis, 
Eurypterus  Breiosteri,  E.  pygmams.  (Myriapods), 
Kampecaris  Forfarcasis,  Archidesmiis  M'NicoU.      The 


FORFARSHIRE 

occurrence  of  mjTiapods  in  these  beds  has  only  recently 
been  proved.  The  genus  Kampccaris  or  grub  shrimp, 
whicli  was  discovered  by  the  late  Dr  Page  in  the  For- 
farshire flagstones,  and  which  could  not  be  accurately 
described  owing  to  the  imperfect  preservation  of  the 
fossils,  was  regarded  by  him  as  probably  a  small 
phyllopod  or  the  larval  form  of  an  isopod  crustacean. 
From  specimens  recently  obtained,  Mr  B.  N.  Peach  has 
pointed  out  that  Kavi2}ecaris  comprises  two  genera  of 
myriapods  which  differ  from  aU  other  forms  in  having 
their  body  segments  free,  and  possessing  only  one  pair 
of  walking  limbs.  These  are  the  oldest  known  air- 
breathers,  and  must  have  flourished  when  Upper  Silurian 
forms  were  still  in  existence. 

To  the  N"  of  Dundee  the  axial  beds  are  traversed  by  a 
series  of  intrusive  dolerites  which  have  altered  the 
strata  in  immediate  contact  with  them.  Dundee  Law 
is  probably  the  site  of  an  old  '  neck '  from  which  some 
of  the  contemporaneous  volcanic  rocks  were  probably 
discharged. 

The  only  patch  of  Upper  Old  Red  Sandstone  in  the 
county  occurs  on  the  shore  about  1  mile  N  of  Arbroath. 
The  strata  cover  about  ^  mile  of  the  coast-line  at 
Cardingheugh  Bay,  and  on  the  S  side  of  the  bay  they 
rest  unconformably  on  the  members  of  the  lower  divi- 
sion, while  to  the  N  they  are  brought  into  conjunction 
with  each  other  by  a  fault.  They  consist  of  soft  honey- 
combed red  sandstones  and  breccias  which  as  yet  have 
proved  unfossiliferous. 

During  the  glacial  period  the  ice  sheet  moved  down 
the  glens  of  the  Isla,  the  Prosen,  and  South  Esk,  cross- 
ing Strathmore  and  surmounting  the  Sidlaws  in  its 
inarch  towards  the  sea.  The  general  trend  of  the  ice- 
flow  was  SE  though  its  coui'se  was  considerably  deflected 
by  the  Sidlaws.  In  order  to  override  this  barrier  the 
ice  sheet  must  at  least  have  been  upwards  of  1500  feet 
thick.  The  boulder  clay  which  accumulated  underneath 
the  ice  is  well  developed  throughout  the  county.  To 
the  E  of  the  Old  Red  Sandstone  boundary,  boulders 
of  various  metamorphic  rocks  from  the  Grampians  are 
associated  with  Old  Bed  conglomerates,  sandstones, 
flagstones,  and  volcanic  rocks  in  this  deposit.  This 
feature  is  observable  not  only  in  the  sections  throughout 
Strathmore,  but  even  on  the  SE  slopes  of  the  Sidlaws. 
The  latter  fact  clearly  indicates  that  the  moraine  j^rofonde 
must  have  been  transported  across  the  chain  and  de- 
posited in  the  lee  of  the  hiUs.  But  these  foreign  blocks 
are  likew'ise  met  with,  perched  on  the  slopes  and  tops 
of  various  eminences  in  the  Sidlaws,  as  for  instance  on 
the  hills  between  Lunnelly  Den  and  Lundie  at  a  height 
of  1000  feet,  and  on  the  summit  of  Craigowl  at  a  height 
of  1500  feet.  The  widespread  sheets  of  clay,  sand,  and 
gravel,  and  the  long  ridges  of  the  same  materials  in 
Strathmore  were  probably  formed  by  the  vast  torrents  of 
water  caused  by  the  melting  of  the  retreating  glaciers. 
As  the  glaciers  shrunk  back  into  the  glens  they  de- 
posited moraines  of  which  the  great  transverse  barrier 
at  Glenairn  in  the  valley  of  South  Esk  is  a  remarkable 
example.  An  interesting  description  of  this  great  ter- 
minal moraine  has  been  given  by  Sir  Charles  Lyell. 
When  seen  from  the  S  side  it  resembles  an  immense 
rampart  about  200  feet  high  athwart  the  valley.  Its 
breadth  from  N  to  S  is  about  i  mile,  and  on  the  E 
side  it  has  been  denuded  by  the  Esk  for  a  space  of  300 
yards.  The  lower  portion  of  this  rampart,  from  50  to 
80  feet  thick,  consists  of  unstratified  mud  charged  with 
boulders,  while  the  upper  portion,  from  50  to  100  feet 
thick,  is  composed  of  finely  stratified  materials.  The 
alluvial  flat  above  the  barrier  represents  the  site  of  an 
ancient  loch  which  was  eventually  drained  by  the  water 
cutting  a  channel  through  the  morainic  deposits.  The 
100,  50,  and  25  feet  raised  beaches  are  represented  at 
various  points  on  the  coast.  The  lowest  of  them  may 
be  traced  continuously  from  Broughty  Ferry  to  Ar- 
broath, swelling  out  into  a  broad  plain  to  the  S  of 
Barry  and  Carnoustie,  where  it  is  covered  in  great  part 
by  sand  dunes.  The  stratified  sands  and  gravels  com- 
posing this  terrace  contain  shells  identical  with  those 
now  living. 
40 


FORFARSHIRE 

The  soils  of  Forfarshire  may  be  classified  into  primary 
and  secondary,  or  those  formed  by  disintegration  of 
native  rocks,  and  those  deposited  from  a  distance  by 
running  water  ;  and,  in  a  general  view,  they  are  mostly 
of  a  red  or  reddish  colour,  frequently  inclining  to 
brown,  dark  brown,  or  black.  The  primary  soils,  on 
the  uplands  of  the  Grampian  district,  are  generally 
moorish  and  thin,  resting  on  whitish  retentive  clay, 
and  frequently  perforated  by  rocks.  In  other  districts 
•with  gravelly  bottoms  the  soil  is  generally  thin,  mossy, 
and  encumbered  with  loose  stones  ;  while  those  districts 
with  sandstone  bottoms  are  chiefly  of  a  tenacious  clay, 
very  unfertile,  yet  capable  of  being  so  worked  as  to 
produce  excellent  wheat.  On  clayey  or  tiUy  bottoms 
the  soil  is  a  strong  clay,  redder  and  decidedly  better 
than  those  named,  while  those  parts  with  trap  rock 
below  are  generally  friable  and  very  fertile  clays;  but 
often  on  the  northern  declivity,  and  among  the  hol- 
lows of  the  Sidlaw  Hills,  too  shallow  to  admit  the 
plough.  The  secondary  soils,  in  the  glens  of  the 
Grampian  district,  are  generally  so  sandy  as  to  be  loose 
and  friable,  or  so  strong  as  to  be  practically  unmanage- 
able. In  the  other  districts  these  soils  ai'e  often  so 
intermixed  with  the  primary  soils  that  they  can  hardly 
be  distinguished,  yet  occurring  distinctively  along  the 
banks  of  streams,  or  in  old  beds  of  lakes  and  river-expan- 
sions, and  frequently  a  considerable  W'ay  up  the  slopes 
adjacent  to  these.  In  the  Strathmore  district,  the  low 
tracts  range  in  character  from  sand,  through  different 
kinds  of  gravel,  to  trap  cUtris,  vegetable  mould,  and 
carse  clay,  and  are  comparatively  unfertile.  In  hollows 
these  soils  have  been  saturated  with  moisture,  and  con- 
verted into  fens  or  mosses.  Around  Montrose  Basin  are 
patches  of  a  carse  clay,  similar  to  that  of  the  carses 
of  Gowrie  and  Falkirk.  In  the  whole  of  Scotland  the 
percentage  of  cultivated  area  is  only  24  -2  ;  in  Forfar- 
shire it  is  44 '4,  a  percentage  higher  than  that  of  twenty- 
one,  and  lower  than  that  of  ten,  other  Scottish  counties. 
Less  than  one  twenty-third  of  the  whole  of  Scotland  is 
under  woods  ;  in  Forfarshire  the  proportion  is  more  than 
one-nineteenth,  viz.,  30,287  acres.  The  finest  of  its  trees 
are  noticed  under  Kinnaird,  Gray,  and  Panmure. 

Agriculture  continued  long  in  Forfarshire  to  be  as 
inert  or  rude  as  in  most  other  parts  of  Scotland,  but  it 
shared  early  in  the  activity  of  the  new  agricultural  era, 
and  acquired  vigour  from  the  efforts  of  Dempster  of 
Dunnichen  and  other  extensive  landowners,  and  from 
the  Lunan,  the  Strathmore,  the  Angus  and  IMearns,  and 
Angus  and  Perthshire,  and  the  Eastern  Forfarshire 
Agricultural  Associations.  For  many  years  prior  to 
1872,  it  exhibited  an  energy,  a  skill,  and  a  success 
little  inferior  to  those  of  the  Lothians.  As  indicating 
the  progress  of  agriculture  in  Forfarshire  in  recent  times, 
the  following  interesting  summary  is  quoted  from  Mr 
James  Macdonald's  prize  paper  on  Forfar  and  Kincar- 
dine, published  in  the  Transactions  of  the  Highland  and 
Agricultural  Society,  fourth  series,  vol.  xiii.,  1881  : — 

'  From  the  Rev.  Mr  Rodger's  report  on  Forfarshire, 
drawn  up  in  1794,  it  appears  that  wheat  was  then  culti- 
vated in  every  parish  in  the  lower  part  of  the  county ; 
that  Angus  oats,  still  famous,  had  thus  a  wide  reputa- 
tion ;  that  some  grasses  were  used  on  almost  every  farm ; 
that  turnips  were  freely  grown  ;  and  that  potatoes  were 
cultivated  with  great  success,  the  yield  in  some  instances 
being  as  high  as  from  50  to  60  bolls  of  16  stones  per 
acre.  The  number  of  cattle  was  estimated  at  36,499 — 
a  small  breed,  ranging  in  weight  from  16  to  20  stones 
avoirdupois,  occupying  the  higher  ground,  and  a  larger 
breed,  weighing  from  40  to  70  stones,  the  lower  parts. 
Sheep  numbered  53,970,  and  were  mostly  of  the  black 
faced,  a  few  being  of  the  ancient  dun  or  white-faced 
kind,  and  others  of  mixed  breeding.  On  some  of  the 
better  managed  farms,  and  around  proprietors'  residences, 
there  was  a  good  deal  of  enclosed  land,  mostly  under 
pasture.  Farm  implements  were  still  primitive,  but 
improvements  were  fast  being  introduced.  The  clumsy 
old  Scotch  plough,  modernised  by  metal  boards,  was 
still  in  use,  but  improved  ploughs,  chiefly  of  Small's 
make,  were  speedily  superseding  it.      It  was  not  un- 

41 


FORFARSHIRE 

common  to  see  four  horses  attached  to  a  plough  ;  and 
oxen  were  employed  on  many  farms.  Ploughmen's 
wages  without  board  averaged  about  Is.  3d.  per  day, 
There  was  then  a  large  extent  of  wood  in  the  county, 
and  early  in  the  present  century  the  area  was  greatly 
increased  by  Lord  Airlie,  Sir  James  Carnegie,  the  Strath- 
more  family,  and  others.  The  Rev.  Mr  Headrick  states 
the  number  and  rental  of  the  farms  in  1813  as  follows — 
viz.,  under  £20  of  annual  value,  1574  farms  ;  £20  and 
under  £50,  565  ;  £50  and  under  £100,  682 ;  £100  and 
under  £300,  315  ;  above  £300,  86  ;  total,  3222. 

'  The  spirit  of  improvement  aroused  in  the  last  cen- 
tury has  never  been  allowed  to  lie  dormant.  True, 
during  the  last  25  years  a  smaller  extent  of  land  has 
been  reclaimed  than  during  either  the  last  25  years  of 
the  18th  century  or  the  first  25  of  the  present,  but  that 
has  not  been  due  to  any  flagging  in  the  spirit  of  im- 
provement, but  simply  to  the  fact  that  only  a  limited 
area  of  suitable  land  remained  for  the  proprietors  and 
tenants  of  the  past  25  years  to  bring  under  cultivation. 
There  has  been  less  done  lately  simply  because  there  has 
been  less  to  do.  No  reliable  data  exist  upon  which  to 
estimate  the  extent  of  land  reclaimed  during  the  first 
half  of  the  present  century.  The  Rev.  Mr  Headrick 
estimated  the  arable  land  in  Forfarshire  in  1813  at 
340,643  acres,  but  it  is  clear  that  that  far  exceeded  the 
actual  extent ;  for  the  area  at  present  under  all  kinds 
of  crops — here,  fallow,  and  grass — falls  short  of  it  by 
nearly  90,000  acres. 

'  Confining  ourselves  to  the  last  25  years,  we  find  that 
there  has  been  a  substantial  increase  in  the  extent  of 
arable  land.  The  following  table  affords  a  pretty  correct 
indication  :  arable  area  in  1854,  219,721  acres  ;  in  1870, 
238,009 ;  in  1880,  253,373.  The  percentage  of  the 
arable  area  in  Forfarshire  under  cultivation  in  1870  was 
41 '8,  now  it  is  44  •5.  This  increase,  equal  to  1246  acres 
a  year,  must  be  regarded  as  highly  creditable,  especially 
when  it  is  considered  that,  as  previously  stated,  agricul- 
tural improvement  had  been  carried  to  a  great  length 
long  before  the  period  to  which  the  above  table  refers, 
so  far,  indeed,  as  to  leave  comparatively  little  to  be 
done.  The  main  portion  of  the  new  land  lies  in  the 
Braes  of  Angus  along  the  foot  of  the  Grampians,  but 
there  is  also  a  fair  proportion  on  the  Sidlaw  range. 

'  The  reclamation  of  land,  however,  has  not  consti- 
tuted the  whole  of  the  agricultural  improvements  in  the 
county  during  the  last  25  years.  Indeed,  it  is  doubtful 
if  it  has  not  in  outlay  been  far  exceeded  by  the  improve- 
ment in  farm  buildings,  draining,  fencing,  roadmaking, 
and  other  accessories  which  tend  to  develop  the  resources 
of  the  soil.  There  has  been  a  great  deal  done  in  the 
improvement  of  farm  buildings,  and  these  are  now,  on 
the  whole,  fully  abreast  of  the  times.  In  several  parts 
of  Forfarshire,  re-draining  might  be  carried  out  with 
advantage ;  but  stiU,  since  1854,  a  great  improvement 
has  been  effected  in  the  condition  of  the  land  in  this 
respect.  In  the  wheat  and  potato  districts  there  is  yet 
a  large  stretch  of  open  land,  but  in  the  parts  where  the 
pastm'iug  of  live-stock  holds  a  prominent  place  in  the 
economy  of  the  farm,  a  great  extent  of  fencing,  mostly 
■wire  and  stone  dykes,  has  been  erected  within  the  last 
25  or  30  years.  In  service  or  farm  roads,  too,  as  well  as 
in  the  county  roads,  there  has  been  considerable  im- 
provement, while  not  a  little  has  been  done  in  the  way 
of  straightening  watercourses,  squaring  fields,  draining 
small  pieces  of  lake  or  swamp,  clearing  the  land  of 
stones,  and  in  other  small  but  useful  works.' 

The  areas  under  various  crops  are  given  in  the  follow- 
ing table : — 


Grain  Ceops — Acres. 


Year. 

Wheat. 

Barley. 

Oats. 

Total, 

1854,  . 
1870,  . 
1875,  . 
1881,  . 

12,795 
13,705 
12,673 
10,038 

25,222 
26,416 
30,096 
31,479 

50,995 
60,623 
61,077 
61,552 

89,012 
90,744 
93,736 
93,090 

42 


FORFARSHIRE 

GK.iss,  Root  Crops,  &c. — Acres. 


Year. 

Hay,  Grass, 
and  Perma- 
nent Pasture. 

Turnips. 

Potatoes. 

1854,     . 
1870,     . 
1875,    . 
1881,     . 

77,349 
73,872 
74,969 
80,338 

32,198 
32,881 
34,782 
33,917 

12,529 
16,723 

14,607 
18,650 

The  agi'icultural  live-stock  in  the  county  is  shown  in 
the  following  table  : — 


Year. 

Cattle. 

Horses.    1    Sheep. 

Pigs. 

Total. 

1854,     . 
1870,     . 
1875,     . 
1881,     . 

48,003 
44,647 
60,591 
46,805 

9,306 

9,323 

9,988 

10,368 

106,028 
119,841 
121,973 
119,386 

8,442 
6,516 
6,918 
4,964 

170,779 
180,327 
189,470 
180,513 

The  polled  Angus  breed  of  cattle  has  a  history  of 
peculiar  interest,  and  the  herds  existing  in  the  county 
are  valuable  and  important.  From  Mr  Macdonald's 
report  on  the  agricultm-e  of  the  county,  we  learn  that 
last  century  the  excellent  beef  producing  qualities  of  the 
herd  had  been  discovered,  and  that  several  poUed  herds 
were  formed.  The  credit  of  being  the  first  to  commence 
the  systematic  improvement  of  the  breed  belongs  to  Mr 
Hugh  Watson,  KeUlor,  an  intimate  friend  of  Sir  Walter 
Scott,  and  associated  with  Booth,  Wetherell,  and  other 
noted  improvers  of  the  cattle  breeds  of  the  kingdom. 
His  herd  was  founded  in  1808,  and  consisted  of  6  cows 
and  a  bull  left  him  by  his  father,  and  of  10  of  the  best 
heifers  and  the  best  bull  he  could  find  at  Trinity  Muir 
Fair.  Although  no  complete  record  exists  of  Mr  Wat- 
son's system,  his  theory  was  to  '  put  the  best  to  the  best 
regardless  of  afiinity  or  blood. '  His  herd  was  dispersed 
in  1860.  The  entrance  of  rinderpest  dealt  a  heavy  blow 
to  the  cultivation  of  breeding  herds,  but  there  has  been 
a  revival,  and  the  county  contains  several  well-known 
herds,  including  that  at  Mains  of  Kelly,  founded  in 
1810.  The  breeding  of  shorthorns  was  long  carried  on 
by  Mr  hya.]!  at  Kincraig,  near  Brechin,  and  afterwards 
at  Old  Montrose,  but  this  herd,  nearly  extinguished  by 
rinderpest  in  1865,  was  finally  dispersed  in  1874.  Mr 
Arkley  of  Ethiebeaton  and  other  shorthorn  breeders 
have  small  herds  in  the  county. 

The  breed  of  black  cattle,  previous  to  the  introduction 
of  turnips  and  sown  grasses,  was  small,  and  the  cattle 
were  yoked  in  the  plough  in  teams.  The  breed  stUl  re- 
mains smaller  in  the  remote  than  in  the  more  cultivated 
districts,  but,  as  stated  by  Mr  Macdonald,  it  has  been 
improved  throughout  most  of  the  county  by  crossings 
and  importations,  so  as  to  correspond  in  progress  with 
the  progress  in  the  arts  of  tUlage.  The  distinction  be- 
tween the  best  feeding  and  the  best  milking  breed,  so 
essential  to  improvement  in  matters  of  the  dairy,  is 
much  less  maintained  or  observed  than  in  AjTshire  and 
other  dairy  districts.  The  original  breed  of  sheep  was 
the  small  white-faced  sheep,  believed  to  have  been  the 
aboriginal  breed  of  Britain  ;  but,  in  the  early  part  of 
the  present  century,  it  was  almost  wholly  superseded  by 
the  black-faced  sheep,  brought  principally  from  Peebles- 
shire. Goats  were  at  one  time  kept  in  the  mountainous 
districts,  but  on  account  of  the  injury  they  did  to  plan- 
tations they  were  extirpated  in  the  latter  part  of  last 
century. 

The  manufacture  of  coarse  fabrics  from  flax,  jute,  and 
hemp,  is  carried  on  to  a  vast  extent  in  Forfarshire,  and 
comprises  considerably  more  than  half  of  the  entire 
linen  trade  of  Scotland.  The  spinning  of  yarn  in  large 
mills,  and  the  working  of  canvas,  broad  sheetings, 
bagging,  and  other  heavy  fabrics  in  factories,  are  con- 
structed on  a  vast  scale  in  the  large  towns ;  and  the 
weaving  of  osnaburghs,  dowlas,  and  common  sheetings 
employs  an  enormous  number  of  handlooms  in  the 
smaller  towns  and  villages.  Mr  A.  J.  Warden  gives 
the  number  of  linen  factories,  in  Sept.  1867,  as  72  in 


FORFARSHIRE 

Dundee,  18  in  Arbroath  and  its  neighbourhood,  6  in 
Montrose  and  its  neighbourhood,  6  in  Forfar,  4  in 
Brechin,  and  2  in  Carnoustie — altogether  108  ;  and  they 
had  278,564  spindles,  11,329  power-looms,  and  7715  of 
nominal  horse-power,  and  employed  46,571  persons. 
The  spinning,  weaving,  and  bleaching  of  linen  are  car- 
ried on  in  various  other  quarters,  but  chiefly  for  manu- 
facturers in  these  towns.  Manufactures  of  leather, 
gloves,  soap,  candles,  hand  cards,  machinery,  confec- 
tionery, and  other  articles  also  are  carried  on  in  con- 
siderable magnitude,  but  only  or  chiefly  in  the  large 
towns,  principallj'  Dundee,  Arbroath,  and  Montrose, 
and  are  noticed  in  our  articles  on  these  places.  The 
railways  of  the  county  embrace  the  Dundee  and  Perth, 
which  runs  a  few  miles  along  the  coast  to  Dundee  ;  the 
Dundee  and  Arbroath  ;  the  North  British,  Montrose, 
and  Arbroath,  along  the  coast,  to  Montrose  ;  the  Mon- 
trose and  Bervie,  going  along  the  coast  into  Kincardine- 
shire ;  the  Tay  Bridge  connections  at  Dundee  ;  and  the 
connections  and  branches  to  Forfar,  Brechin,  Kirriemuir, 
etc.  (See  Caledonian  Railway  and  North  Beitish 
Railway.  ) 

Forfarshire,  with  a  constituency  of  3642  in  1882, 
retui'ns  one  member  to  parliament,  always  a  Liberal 
since  1837,  there  havin"  been  only  one  contested  election 
(in  1872)  during  all  that  period,  and  even  then  both 
candidates  were  Liberals.  Dundee  returns  two  members ; 
and  Montrose,  Arbroath,  Brechin,  and  Forfar,  forming 
with  Bervie  the  Montrose  Burghs,  return  one.  Other 
towns  are  Kirriemuir,  Lochee,  Broughty  Ferry,  Car- 
noustie, and  part  of  Coupar- Angus ;  and  the  principal 
villages  are  Auchmithie,  Barnhill,  Claverhouse,  Do^vn- 
lield,  Edzell,  Ferryden,  Friockheim,  Glamis,  Hillside, 
Letham,  Monifieth,  Newtyle,  and  Northmuir.  Man- 
sions, all  noticed  separately,  are  Airlie  Castle,  Cortachy 
Castle,  Ethie  Castle,  Glamis  Castle,  Kinnaird  Castle, 
Brechin  Castle,  Auldbar  Castle,  Panmm'e  House,  Inver- 
mark  Lodge,  Caraldston  Castle,  Rossie,  Duntrune, 
Ochterlony,  Hospitalfield,  Stracathro,  Bandirran,  Lin- 
dertis,  Liulathen,  Baldovan,  Invergowrie,  Baldowie,  etc. 
A  great  proportion  of  the  landed  property  of  the  county 
at  the  beginning  of  the  18th  century  was  held  by  the 
Lyons,  the  Maules,  the  Douglases,  the  Ogilvies,  the 
Carnegies,  and  a  few  other  ancient  families  ;  but  much 
of  the  large  estates,  after  the  introduction  of  manufac- 
tures and  trade,  underwent  subdivision,  and  passed  into 
other  hands.  Not  one-third  of  40  barons,  recorded  by 
Edward  in  1676  as  proprietors  in  the  county,  are  now 
represented  by  their  descendants,  and  a  portion  of  even 
the  few  ancient  families  who  continue  to  be  proprietors 
are  now  non-resident.  So  rapidly  has  landed  property 
in  many  parishes  passed  from  hand  to  hand,  that  the 
average  term  of  possession  by  one  famUy  does  not  exceed 
40  years.  According  to  Miscellaneous  Statistics  of  the 
United  Kingdom  (1879),  555,994  acres,  with  a  total 
gross  estimated  rental  of  £1,243,109,  were  divided 
among  9339  proprietors,  one  holding  136,602  acres 
(rental  £55,602),  one  65,059  (£21,664),  two  together 
44,418  (£25,327),  two  27,334  (£22,456),  fourteen 
90,307  (£72,096),  twenty-five  83,744  (£96,566),  thirty 
41,695  (£64,222),  forty-two  29,254  (£156,731),  one 
hundred  and  four  28,148  (£76,719),  etc. 

The  county  is  governed  by  a  lord-Ueutenant,  a  vice- 
lieutenant,  31  deputy-lieutenants,  and  231  justices  of 
the  peace.  It  forms  a  sheriffdom,  with  resident  sheriflTs- 
substitute  at  Dimdee  and  Forfar,  courts  being  held  at 
the  former  town  on  Wednesday  and  Friday,  and  at  the 
latter  on  Thursday,  throughout  the  session.  A  sherLBf 
small-debt  court  is  also  held  at  Forfar  on  Thursday, 
and  at  Dundee  on  Tuesday.  Small  debt  courts  are  held 
at  Monti'ose  on  the  third  Friday,  at  Arbroath  on  the 
third  Wednesday,  and  at  Ku-riemuir  on  the  third  Mon- 
day, of  January  and  every  alternate  month.  There  is 
a  burgh  police  force  in  Arbroath  (18  men),  Brechin  (6), 
Dundee  (161),  Forfar  (9),  Kirriemuir  (2),  and  Montrose 
(12) ;  the  remaining  police  in  the  county  comprise  43 
men,  under  a  chief  constable,  whose  yearly  pay  is  £300. 
In  18S0  the  number  of  persons  in  the  county  and  in  the 
six  burghs  tried  at  the  instance  of  the  police  was  479 


FORFARSHIRE 

and  6461  ;  convicted,  449  and  6242 ;  committed  for 
trial,  42  and  473  ;  not  dealt  with,  189  and  1970.  The 
registration  county,  divided  into  54  registration  dis- 
tricts, had  268,653  inhabitants  in  1881.  The  number 
of  registered  poor  in  the  year  ending  14  May  1881  was 
5550 ;  of  dependants  on  these,  2787  ;  of  casual  poor, 
1612;  of  dependants  on  these,  1194.  The  receipts  for 
the  poor  in  that  year  were  £53,712,  17s.  7Jd.  ;  and 
the  expenditure  was  £54,880,  7s.  3d.  The  numljer  of 
pauper  lunatics  was  789,  their  cost  of  maintenance 
being  £15,348,  3s.  lid.  The  percentage  of  illegitimate 
bii-ths  was  11-6  in  1871,  10  in  1877,  and  9-9  in  1880. 

Although  eleventh  in  size  of  the  thirty-three  Scotch 
counties,  Forfarshire  ranks  as  sixth,  or  next  to  Fife,  in 
respect  of  rental  roll,  its  valuation,  exclusive  of  railways 
and  burghs,  being  (1856)  £370,519,  (1866)  £462,138, 
(1876)  £554,407,  (1882)  £590,382,  Is.  6d.,  plus  £101,194 
for  railways  and  £823,375,  6s.  lid.  for  the  five  parlia- 
mentary burghs.  Total  (1882)  £1,514,951,  8s.  5d.  In 
point  of  population  it  stands  fourth,  Aberdeen,  Edin- 
burgh, and  Lanark  shires  alone  surpassing  it.  Pop. 
(1801)  99,053,  (1811)  107,187,  (1821),  113,355,  (1831) 
139,606,  (1841)  170,453,  (1851)  191,264,  (1861)  204,425, 
(1871)  237,567,  (1881)  266,360,  of  whom  120,091  were 
males,  and  146,269  females.  In  1881  the  number  of 
persons  to  each  square  mile  was  304  ;  and  the  dwellers 
in  the  nine  towns  numbered  214,760,  in  the  thirteen 
villages  8261,  and  in  the  rural  districts  43,339,  the 
corresponding  figures  for  1871  being  186,185,  7130,  and 
44,252.  Houses  (1881)  52,688  inhabited,  3236  vacant, 
115  building. 

The  county  is  divided  into  56  civil  parishes,  of  which 
6  are  partly  situated  in  other  counties.  Edzell  has  a 
small  piece  in  Kincardineshire  ;  Alyth,  Caputh,  and 
Coupar-Angus  are  principally  in  Perthshire ;  and  por- 
tions of  Liff  and  Benvie,  Lundie  and  Fowlis,  are  in  the 
latter  county.  There  are  25  quoad  sacra  parishes,  and 
these  with  the  civil  go  to  make  up  the  presbyteries  of 
Forfar,  Brechin,  and  Arbroath,  and  partly  to  form 
those  of  Dundee  and  Meigle — all  of  them  included  in 
the  synod  of  Angus  and  Meams.  The  Free  Church 
has  similar  divisions,  with  62  charges  within  Forfar- 
shire ;  and  the  United  Presbyterian  Church,  in  its 
presbyteries  of  Arbroath  and  Dundee,  has  27  Forfar- 
shire charges.  The  Scottish  Episcopal  Church  has  13 
churches ;  the  Roman  Catholic,  6 ;  and  other  places 
of  worship  are  2  English  Episcopal,  7  Evangelical 
Union,  11  Congregational,  4  Wesleyan,  6  Baptist,  1 
Unitarian,  and  2  United  Original  Seceders.  In  the 
year  ending  Sept.  1881  there  were  195  schools  (147 
public),  which,  with  accommodation  for  38,411  children, 
had  36,244  on  the  roUs,  and  an  average  attendance  of 
20,901.  Their  staflf  consisted  of  313  certificated,  55 
assistant,  and  289  pupil  teachers. 

The  territory  now  constituting  Forfarshire  belonged 
to  the  Caledonian  tribe  of  the  Vernicomes.  It  formed, 
till  the  time  of  Kenneth  II.,  a  part  of  Southern  Pic- 
tavia  ;  and  from  935  and  earlier  to  1242  was  included 
in  the  old  Celtic  mormaership  or  earldom  of  Angus. 
Its  civil  history  possesses  hardly  a  distinctive  feature  ; 
and,  excepting  a  few  facts  which  properly  belong  to 
the  history  of  its  principal  towns,  Brechin,  Arbroath, 
Dundee,  Forfar,  and  Montrose,  and  to  its  castles,  as 
Finhaven,  Edzell,  and  AirUe,  it  is  blended  in  the 
general  history  of  the  counties  N  of  the  Forth.  The 
chief  immigrant  barons,  at  the  period  of  the  Anglo- 
Saxon  colonisation,  whose  descendants  continued  to 
figure  most  conspicuously  in  the  county,  w-ere  the 
Lyons,  the  Maules,  and  the  Carnegies.  Sir  John 
Lyon,  a  gentleman  of  Norman  extraction,  having  marj 
ried  a  daughter  of  King  Robert  II.,  obtained,  among 
other  grants,  the  castle  and  lands  of  Glamis,  and  was 
the  founder  of  the  noble  family  of  Barons  Glamis, 
Tannadice,  Sidlaw,  and  Strathdighty,  and  Earls  of 
Strathmore.  Guarin  de  Maule  accompanied  William 
the  Conqueror  from  Normandy  to  England  ;  Robert  de 
Maule,  a  son  of  Guarin,  followed  Earl  David,  afterwards 
King  David,  into  Scotland ;  Roger,  the  second  son  of 
that  Robert,  married  the  heiress  of  William  de  Valoniis, 

13 


FORFAESHIRE  RAILWAY 

Lord  of  Panmure  and  chamberlain  of  Scotland  in  the 
time  of  Alexander  II.  ;  and  from  them  sprang  the 
Maules,  afterwards  Earls  of  Panmure,  and  the  Fox- 
Maule-Ramsays,  now  Barons  Panmure  and  Earls  of  Dal- 
housie.  The  Carnegies  ramified  into  several  branches, 
two  of  which  became  respectively  Earls  of  Southesk  and 
Earls  of  Northesk. 

Remains  of  vitrified  forts  are  found  on  Finhaven  Hill 
In  Oathlaw  parish,  on  Drumsturdy  Moor  in  Monifieth 
parish,  and  on  Dundee  Law.  Ancient  hill  forts  are 
traceable  on  White  Caterthun  and  Brown  Caterthun 
in  Menmuir  parish,  at  Denoon  Law,  2^  miles  SW  of 
Glamis,  and  on  Dunnichen  Hill,  Dumbarrow  Hill,  Car- 
buddo  Hill,  Lower  Hill,  and  several  other  eminences. 
In  many  instances  these  forts  are  indicated  only  by  heaps 
of  loose  stones.  Cairns  and  ancient  standing  stones 
are  in  various  places,  particularly  in  Aberlemno  and 
Monikie  parishes.  Vestiges  of  Koman  camps  are  at 
Haerfaulds  in  Lour  Moor,  at  a  part  in  Forfar  Moor 
about  J  mile  NE  of  Forfar  town,  and  at  War  Dykes  or 
Black  bikes,  2J  miles  N  of  Brechin.  At  Dukuichen 
the  revolted  Picts  defeated  and  slew  Ecgfrid,  the  Nor- 
thumbrian king,  recovering  thus  their  independence, 
20  May  685.  Carved  stones  at  Glamis  are  believed  to 
refer  to  the  drowning  of  the  murderers  of  Malcolm  II. , 
who  are  said  to  have  perished  by  falling  through  the 
ice  on  Forfar  Loch.  In  Rescobie  Castle,  Donald  Bane, 
brother  to  Malcolm  Ceannmor,  was  tortured  by  his 
nephew  Edgar,  and  died  in  1097,  his  enemy  djdng  ten 
years  later.  Queen  Mary,  in  her  journey  N,  visited 
the  abbey  at  Coupar- Angus  and  the  castle  of  Edzell. 
Great  mediaeval  castles  were  at  Forfar  and  Dundee,  but 
hjve  long  been  extinct ;  and  other  mediteval  castles, 
still  represented  by  considerable  remains,  in  various 
conditions  of  conservation  or  of  ruin,  are  Broughty 
Castle  at  Broughty  Ferry,  Red  Castle  at  the  head  of 
Lunan  Bay,  Airlie  Castle  in  Airlie  parish,  Finhaven 
Castle  in  Oathlaw  parish,  Invermark  Castle  and  Edzell 
Castle  in  Glenesk,  Kelly  Castle  near  Arbroath,  and 
Affleck  Castle  in  Monikie  parish.  A  round  tower, 
similar  to  the  famous  round  towers  of  Ireland,  and  the 
only  one  in  Scotland  except  one  at  Abernethy,  is  at 
Brechin.  Interesting  ancient  ecclesiastical  edifices,  or 
ruins  of  them,  are  the  parish  church  or  quondam  cathe- 
dral of  Brechin,  the  tower  of  the  town  churches  of 
Dundee,  the  abbey  of  Arbroath,  the  Priory  of  Restenneth, 
and  the  churches  of  Eettins  and  Fowlis.  Several  monas- 
tic edifices,  of  inferior  note  to  Arbroath  Abbey,  were  in 
Dundee,  Montrose,  Brechin,  and  other  places,  but  have 
in  most  instances  entirely  disappeared.  See  Andrew 
Jervise's  Memorials  of  Angus  and  Mearns  (Edinb.  1861), 
and  Land  of  the  Lindsays  (Edinb.  1853) ;  William  Mar- 
shall's Historic  Scenes  in  Forfarshire  (Edinb.  1876) ; 
J.  C.  Guthrie's  Vale  of  Strathmore  (Edinb.  1875); 
T.  Lawson's  Report  on  the  Past  and  Present  Agriculture 
of  Forfarshire  (Edinb.  1881);  James  Macdonald's  'Agri- 
culture of  the  County  of  Forfar'  in  Trans,  of  the  Sigld. 
and  Ag.  Soc.  (1881);  Alex.  J.  Warden's  Angus  or  For- 
farshire, the  Land  and  People  (4  vols. ,  Dundee,  1880-83) ; 
and  works  referred  to  under  Arbroath,  Bkeohin, 
Coupar- Angus,  Dundee,  and  Maryton. 

Forfarshire  Railway.  See  Dundee  and  Fokfar 
Railway. 

Forgan,  a  parish  in  the  N  of  Fife,  on  the  Firth  of 
Tay,  containing  the  post-town  of  Newport  and  the 
village  of  Woodhaven,  the  former  11  miles  NNE  of 
Cupar  and  1^  mile  SSE  of  Dundee  (by  steam  ferry).  It 
is  bounded  NW  by  the  Firth  of  'Tay,  E  by  Ferryport- 
on-Craig  and  Leuchars,  S  by  Leuchars,  Logie,  and  Kil- 
many,  and  W  by  Balmerino.  Its  utmost  length,  from 
E  by  N  to  W  by  S,  is  5J  miles  ;  its  breadth  varies  be- 
tween IJ  and  3  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  5082i  acres,  of 
which  100  are  foreshore.  The  Firth  of  Tay,  contracting 
here  from  2^  miles  to  IJ  mile,  is  crossed  at  Wormit 
Bay,  in  the  western  extremity  of  the  parish,  by  the 
new  Tay  Bridge.  The  coast-line,  3J  miles  long,  trends, 
with  slight  curvature,  from  SW  to  NE  ;  and  above  and 
below  Newport  projects  the  small  headlands  of  Pluck 
the  Crow  Point  and  Craig  Head  (formerly  Skarness). 


FORGANDENNY 

The  shore  at  ebb  tide  is  entirely  silt  or  clay,  at  high 
water  shows  a  line  of  gravel  or  boulders ;  and  the  coast 
is  all  bold  or  rocky,  rising  rapidly  in  places  to  a  height 
of  100  feet  above  sea-level.  The  interior  presents  an 
irregular  and  undulating  surface,  a  series  of  heights  and 
hollows  that  attains  300  feet  near  Northfield,  Inverdovet, 
St  Fort,  and  Wormithill,  and  400  at  Newton  Hill  in 
the  SW  corner  of  the  parish.  The  land  slopes  generally 
towards  the  Tay ;  and  the  immediate  seaboard  is,  to  a 
large  extent,  studded  with  villas  of  Dundee  merchants 
and  manufacturers,  and,  finely  adorned  with  gardens, 
shrubberies,  and  woods,  commands  magnificent  views 
across  and  along  the  Tay.  The  principal  rocks  are 
sandstone,  sandstone  conglomerate,  fine-grained  green- 
stone-trap, and  amygdaloidal  greenstone,  the  last  of 
which  has  been  largely  quarried,  both  for  house-building 
and  for  enclosures.  The  soil,  over  the  greater  part  of  the 
area,  consists  of  the  debris  of  the  trap  rocks,  being  partly 
light  and  gravelly,  but  chiefly  either  a  good  black  loam 
or  a  clayey  earth.  About  four-fifths  of  the  entire  area 
are  in  tillage,  the  rest  being  pretty  equally  divided  be- 
tween grass  and  plantations.  Cairns  or  tumuli,  com- 
posed of  small  stones,  were  formerly  numerous ;  and 
rude  ancient  urns  have  been  found  at  Newport,  at 
Westfield,  and  in  Tayfield  Park.  At  Inverdufatha  or 
Inverdovet,  in  877,  the  Danes,  pursuing  the  Scots  from 
Dollar,  gained  a  great  victory,  in  which  KingConstantin 
mac  Kenneth  was  among  the  great  multitude  slain.  St 
Fort  and  Tayfield  are  the  chief  mansions ;  and  6  pro- 
prietors hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards, 
14  of  between  £100  and  £500,  27  of  from  £50  to  £100, 
and  80  of  from  £20  to  £50.  In  the  presbytery  of  St 
Andrews  and  synod  of  Fife,  this  parish  since  1878  has 
been  ecclesiastically  divided  into  Forgan  proper  and  New- 
port, the  former  a  living  worth  £357.  Its  old  church 
standing  in  ruins  at  a  beautiful  sequestered  spot,  2  J  mUes 
SE  of  Newport,  was  anciently  held  by  St  Andrews  priory ; 
the  present  one  was  built  in  1841,  and  contains  550  sit- 
tings. Four  other  places  of  worship — Established,  Free, 
U.  P. ,  and  Congregational — are  noticed  under  Newport  ; 
and  two  public  schools,  Forgan  and  Newport,  with 
respective  accommodation  for  130  and  421  children, 
had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  106  and  272,  and 
grants  of  £91,  17s.  lOd.  and  £270,  9s.  Valuation 
(1866)  £12,705,  (1882)  £26,183,  2s.  2d.  Pop.  of  civil 
parish  (1801)  916,  (1831)  1090,  (1851)  1125,  (1861) 
1326,  (1871)  2243,  (1881)  3308  ;  of  ecclesiastical  parish 
(1881)  1533.— Orrf.  Sur.,  shs.  49,  48,  1865-68. 

Forgandenny,  a  post-office  village  in  Perthshire,  and 
a  parish  partly  also  in  Kinross-shire.  The  village 
stands  130  feet  above  sea-level,  3  miles  W  of  its  post- 
town.  Bridge  of  Earn,  and  1  mile  S  of  the  river  Earn, 
and  of  a  station  of  its  own  name  on  the  Scottish  Centi-al 
section  of  the  Caledonian  railway,  this  station  being  44 
miles  SW  of  Perth. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  hamlet  of  Path  of 
Condie,  5  miles  S  by  W,  is  bounded  N  by  Aberdalgie 
and  the  Craigend  section  of  Forteviot,  E  by  Dunbarny, 
Dron,  and  Arngask,  S  by  the  southernmost  section  of 
Forteviot  and  by  Orwell,  and  W  by  Dunning  and  the 
main  body  of  Forteviot.  Its  utmost  length,  from  N  by 
E  to  S  by  W,  is  7i  miles ;  its  breadth  varies  between 
If  and  3J  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  8998^  acres,  of  which 
12131  belong  to  Kinross-shire,  and  52|  are  water.  The 
river  Earn,  winding  2j  miles  eastward  along  or  just 
beyond  all  the  northern  boundary,  describes  some  of 
those  graceful  curves,  and  forms  some  of  those  beautiful 
peninsulas,  for  which  it  has  been  so  much  admired ;  and 
the  Water  of  Mat,  its  affluent,  has  here  a  course  of  5§ 
miles — the  first  2  miles  north-eastward  along  the  bound- 
ary with  Dunning,  and  the  last  ^  mile  northward  along 
that  with  Forteviot.  Both  the  "Earn  and  the  May,  the 
former  all  along  the  northern  boundary,  the  latter  in  its 
lower  reach,  sometimes  overflow  their  banks  ;  but  they 
amply  compensate  any  damage  they  infiict  by  bringing 
down  rich  deposits  of  fertilising  silt.  One  or  two 
springs  adjacent  to  the  eastern  boundary  possess  exactly 
the  same  medicinal  properties  as  the  Pitcaithly  wells. 
The  northern  district,  from  30  to  150  feet  above  the  sea. 


FORGLEN 

is  part  of  the  beautiful  valley  of  Strathearn,  and, 
though  ascending  gradually  southwards,  is  on  the 
wliole  level.  The  southern,  beyond  the  village,  com- 
prises fully  three-fourths  of  the  entire  area,  and  runs  up 
among  the  Ochil  Hills,  attaining  300  feet  on  Dumbuils, 
102S  on  Castle  Law,  624  near  Ardargie  Mains,  797  near 
Rossieochill,  and  1354  at  Slungie  Hill,  whose  summit, 
however,  falls  just  within  Orwell  parish.  It  mainly 
consists  of  hill  and  upland,  with  little  intersecting  vale  ; 
yet  has  but  a  small  aggregate  of  bare  or  rocky  surface, 
and  is  mostly  disposed  in  either  good  pasture  or  corn- 
fields. The  rocks  are  partly  Devonian,  but  principally 
eruptive  ;  and  they  include  some  limestone,  some  iron- 
stone, and  great  abundance  of  such  kinds  of  trap  as 
are  suitable  for  building.  The  soil  on  some  of  the  lands 
adjacent  to  the  Earn  is  carse  clay,  on  others  a  sandy 
alluvium  ;  further  S  is  a  rich,  black,  argillaceous  loam  ; 
and  on  the  arable  lands  of  the  centre  and  the  S  is 
variously  a  sandy  earth,  a  black  earth,  and  a  reddish 
clay,  better  adapted  for  oats  than  any  other  sort  of 
grain.  JIuch  land  formerly  pastoral  or  waste  has  been 
reclaimed  ;  and  barely  1000  acres  have  never  been  sub- 
jected to  the  plough.  The  mansions  of  Ardargie, 
Condie,  Freeland,  and  Rossie  are  separately  noticed,  as 
likewise  are  a  small  Roman  camp  on  Ardargie  estate,  an 
extensive  Danish  fortification  on  Castle  Law,  and 
remains  of  another  ancient  fortification  on  Dumbuils. 
Five  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £300  and 
upwards,  5  of  between  £100  and  £500,  and  4  of  from 
£20  to  £50.  Forgandenuy  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Perth  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling ;  the  living  is 
worth  £272.  The  parish  church  at  the  village  is  very 
old,  and  contains  410  sittings.  There  is  also  a  Free 
church  ;  and  two  public  schools,  Forgandenny  and  Path 
of  Condie,  with  respective  accommodation  for  113  and 
64  childi'en,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  79  and 
40,  and  grants  of  £67,  2s.  and  £44,  6s.  Valuation 
(1882)  £7913,  3s.  2d.  Pop.  (1801)  958,  (1831)  917, 
(1861)  739,  (1871)  632,  (1881)  627,  of  whom  10  were  in 
Kinross-shire. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  48,  40,  1868-67. 

Forglen,  a  parish  of  NE  Banffshire,  whose  church 
stands  2 J  mUes  WNW  of  Turriff",  under  wliicii  there  is 
a  post  oiSce  of  Forglen.  It  is  bounded  N  and  NE  by 
Alvah,  E  and  S  by  Turriff  in  Aberdeenshire,  and  SAV 
and  W  by  ^larnoch.  Its  utmost  length,  from  NW  to 
SE,  is  5|  miles  ;  its  utmost  breadth  is  3|  miles  ;  and 
its  land  area  is  6249  acres.  The  river  Deveeok  flows 
3  J  mUes  east -north -eastward  along  all  the  southern, 
then  3J  miles  along  all  the  eastern  and  north-eastern, 
border.  Sinking  in  the  NE  to  75  feet  above  sea-level, 
the  surface  thence  rises  to  400  feet  at  Todlaw  Wood, 
323  near  Sawmill  Croft,  557  at  Auldtown  Hill,  600 
near  Craiglug,  and  575  at  Craig  Aithry.  It  thus  is 
beautifully  varied  with  gently  rising  grounds,  having 
a  gradual  slope  towards  the  Deveron,  and  being  well 
sheltered  by  woods  and  hills.  Greywacke  rock  pre- 
vails in  the  W,  and  appears  also  in  the  N  and  the 
centre ;  whilst  clay  slate  predominates  in  the  lower 
grounds  and  towards  the  S.  The  soil  is  generally  light 
— sandy  along  the  Deveron,  clayey  in  parts  of  the 
interior,  and  seldom  loamy.  Fully  one-fifth  of  the 
entire  area  is  under  wood,  and  nearly  all  the  rest  of  the 
land,  partly  in  result  of  recent  reclamation,  is  either 
regularly  or  occasionally  in  tillage.  Forglen  House,  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Deveron,  2J  miles  NW  of  Turriff',  is 
a  noble  castellated  edifice  of  1842,  successor  to  an  older 
mansion  that  dated  from  the  middle  of  the  15th 
century.  It  is  the  seat  of  Sir  Robert  John  Abercromby 
of  Birkenbog,  chief  of  the  clan  Abercromby,  and  seventh 
Bart,  since  1636  (b.  1850;  sue.  1872),  who  owns  8053 
acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £6290  per  annum.  Car- 
nousie,  the  other  mansion,  is  noticed  sejxirately  ;  and 
the  property  is  divided  among  three.  Constituted  a 
parish  about  1640  out  of  portions  of  Alvah  and  llarnoch, 
Forglen  was  sometimes  known  as  Tennan  or  St  Eonan 
(Adamnan)  from  an  ancient  chapel  in  it,  remains  of 
■which  still  exist.  This  chapel,  or  a  predecessor,  was 
Adamnan's  principal  churcli  among  the  northern  Picts 
towards  the  close  of  the  7th  century  ;  and  in  it  was  pre- 


FOEGUE 

served  the  JSrichannoch,  or  banner  of  Columba.  For- 
glen  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Turriff  and  synod  of  Aber- 
deen ;  the  living  is  worth  £225.  The  present  parish 
church,  built  in  1806,  contains  450  sittings.  A  Free 
church  stands  2J  miles  to  the  WNW  ;  and  two  public 
schools,  boys'  and  girls',  with  respective  accommodation 
for  120  and  85  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attend- 
ance of  76  and  47,  and  grants  of  £85  and  £42,  8s.  2d. 
Valuation  (1860)  £4470,  (1882)  £5378,  14s.  8d.  Pop. 
(1801)  605,  (1831)  820,  (1861)  783,  (1871)  845,  (1881) 
7U.—0rd.  Sur.,  sh.  86,  1876. 

Forgue,  a  parish  on  the  north-western  border  of  Aber- 
deenshire. The  church,  near  which  a  hamlet  once 
existed,  is  situated  5J  miles  E  of  Rothiemay  station, 
and  74  NE  of  Huntly,  under  which  there  is  a  post 
office. 

The  parish  is  bounded  N  and  NE  by  Inverkeithny 
in  Bantfshii'e,  E  by  Auchterless,  S  by  Culsahnond  and 
Insch,  W  by  Drumblade  and  Huntly,  and  NW  by 
Rothiemay  in  Banffshire.  Its  utmost  length,  from  N 
to  S,  is  7§  miles ;  its  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  varies 
between  2  and  5|  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  17, 379 J  acres, 
of  which  25i  are  water.  The  river  Deveron  winds 
9  fuidongs  along  the  Rothiemay  border  ;  Glen  Water  or 
tlie  Ury,  flowing  2|  miles  eastward  through  the  Glen  of 
Foudland,  traces  all  the  southern  boundary  ;  the 
Yi'HAN  rises  in  the  southern  interior,  and  passes  off  into 
Auchterless  ;  whilst  Forgue  and  Frendraught  Burns, 
uniting  below  the  church,  carry  most  of  the  drainage 
northward  to  the  Deveron.  The  surface  declines  along 
the  Deveron  to  242  feet  above  sea-level,  at  the  confluence 
of  Forgue  and  Frendraught  Bm'ns  to  232,  along  the  Ury 
to  538,  and  along  the  Ythan  to  508  ;  and  the  interior 
is  a  fine  alternation  of  vales  and  hillocks,  holms  and 
knolls.  The  north-western  extremity  is  occupied  by 
part  of  Foreman  Hill  (1127  feet)  ;  and  in  the  S  rise 
Broom  Hill  (1006),  Wether  Hill  (943),  and  the  Hill  of 
Bainshole  (1042).  The  chief  rocks  are  greywacke,  clay 
slate,  limestone,  granitic  gneiss,  and  syenitic  greenstone, 
of  which  the  slate  and  limestone  were  formerly  quarried 
at  Lambhill  and  Pitfancy.  The  soils  are  various — 
sandy,  gravelly,  loamy,  clayey,  and  mossy ;  some  rich 
and  grateful,  others  poor  and  barren  ;  some  yielding 
from  eight  to  ten  returns  of  the  seed  sown,  others  re- 
turning no  more  than  two  or  less  than  three.  Much  of 
the  land  incapable  of  being  turned  to  any  better  account 
is  covered  with  plantations.  An  interesting  ruin, 
famous  in  ballad  and  separately  noticed,  is  Frendraught 
Castle ;  other  antiquities  are  remains  of  several  an- 
cient Caledonian  stone  circles,  and  of  what  is  conjec- 
tured to  have  been  a  Roman  redoubt.  The  Admirable 
Crichton  (1560-83)  has  been  claimed  as  a  native,  falsely, 
since  Eliook,  in  Dumfriesshire,  was  his  birthplace ;  but 
in  Forgue  was  born  the  eminent  antiquary,  John  Stuart, 
LL.D.  (1813-77).  A  large  distillery  is  at  Glendronach, 
and  fairs  are  held  at  Hawkhall.  In  1875  a  neat  cottage 
hospital  was  built  in  this  parish  by  Mrs  Morison  of 
Bognie,  for  patients  resident  in  the  parishes  of  Forgue, 
Ythan-Wells,  Auchterless,  and  Inverkeithny.  In  front 
of  it  is  a  granite  cross  20  feet  high,  erected  by  the 
tenantry  in  1876  as  a  memorial  to  her  husband,  the 
late  Alexander  Morison,  Esq.,  in  pursuance  of  whose 
wishes  this  hospital  was  founded.  Mansions  are  Auch- 
aber,  Aucharnie,  Boyne's  Mill,  Cobairdy,  Corse,  Drum- 
blair  House,  Drumblair  Cottage,  Frendraught,  Haddo, 
and  Temple-land ;  and  5  proprietors  hold  each  an 
annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  8  of  between  £100 
and  £500,  and  3  of  less  than  £100.  In  the  presbytery 
of  Turriff  and  synod  of  Aberdeen,  this  parish  includes 
the  chief  part  of  Ythan-Wells  quoad  sacra  parish, 
itself  being  a  living  worth  £343.  Its  church,  erected 
in  1819,  is  a  substantial  edifice,  with  900  sittings, 
Gothic  windows,  and  a  fine-toned  organ,  presented 
by  Walter  Scott,  Esq.  of  Glendronach,  in  1872.  There 
are  also  a  Free  church  of  Forgue,  and  an  Episco- 
pal church,  St  Margaret's,  which  latter,  rebuilt  in  1857, 
is  an  Early  English  structure,  with  nave,  chancel,  and 
a  tower  and  spire  110  feet  high.  Forgue  public,  Largue 
public,  and  Forgue  EpiscopaUan  school,  with  respective 

<15 


FORKINGS 

accommodation  for  140,  100,  and  60  children,  had 
(1881)  an  average  attendance  of  79,  82,  and  51,  and 
grants  of  £71,  6s.  6d.,  £76,  lis.,  and  £34,  8s.  Valuation 
(1860)  £11,006,  (1881)  £13,538,  Is.  9d.  Pop.  of  civil 
parish  (1801)  1768,  (1831)  2286,  (1861)  2686,  (1871) 
2623,  (1881)  2422  ;  of  ecclesiastical  parish  (1871)  1332, 
(1881)  IZOS.—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  86,  1876. 
Forkings,  a  hamlet  of  S  Eoxburghshire,  9  miles  E  by 

5  of  Hawick. 

Forkins.     See  Wilsontown. 

Formal,  Knock  of,  a  hill  near  the  SW  border  of  Lin- 
trathen  parish,  W  ]?orfar.shire,  on  the  western  shore  of 
the  Loch  of  Lintrathen,  4  miles  N  by  E  of  Alyth.  It 
rises  to  an  altitude  of  1158  feet  above  sea-level,  and  is 
covered  with  wood  to  the  top. 

Forman.     See  Foreman. 

Formartine,  a  central  district  of  Aberdeenshire.  It 
is  bounded  on  the  NE  by  Buchan,  on  the  E  by  the 
German  Ocean,  on  the  S  by  Aberdeen,  on  the  SW  by 
Garioch,  on  the  NW  by  Strathbogie.  It  comprises  all 
the  seaboard  from  the  Ythan  to  the  Don  ;  extends  up 
the  N  side  of  the  Ythan's  basin  and  past  Turriff  to  the 
Deveron  ;  and  is  separated  by  a  ridge  of  low  hills,  near 
Old  Meldrum,  from  Garioch.  It  contains  16  qtioad 
civilia  parishes,  and  has  an  area  of  about  280  square 
mUes.  It  consists  partly  of  a  strong  soil  intersected  by 
bogs,  and  partly  of  an  excellent  clay  capable  of  a  high 
degree  of  improvement  ;  and  it  gives  the  title  of  Viscount 
to  the  Earl  of  Aberdeen. 

Forneth,  a  hamlet  in  Clunie  parish,  NE  Perthshire, 

6  miles  W  by  S  of  Blairgo^vi'ie,  under  which  it  has  a  post 
office.  Forneth  House,  J  mile  nearer  Blairgowrie, 
crowns  a  fine  elevation  on  the  NAY  bank  of  the  loch  of 
Clunie,  and  commands  a  beautiful  prospect  of  the  lake, 
its  islet,  and  surrounding  scenes. 

Fornoughty,  a  hamlet  in  Rathven  parish,  NW  Banff- 
shire, SJ  miles  S  of  Buckie. 

Forres  (Gael,  far-uis,  'near  the  water'),  a  parish  in 
the  NW  of  the  county  of  Elgin,  is  bounded  on  the  NE 
by  Kinloss,  on  the  E,  SE,  and  S  by  Rafford,  on  the 
SW  by  Edinkillie,  and  on  the  "W  by  Dyke  and  Moy. 
Near  the  middle  of  the  western  boundary,  at  Moy  Carse 
westward  from  Invererne,  the  boundary  is  formed  by  a 
detached  portion  of  Nairnshire,  measuring  4  furlongs  by 
2.  With  this  exception,  the  boundary  on  the  SW  and 
W  is  the  river  Findhorn  ;  elsewhere  it]  is  artificial  and 
excessively  irregular.  There  is  a  long  narrow  strip 
running  N  and  S,  and  from  the  middle  of  this  a  horn- 
like projection  runs  eastward  into  the  parish  of  Eaflbrd, 
and  terminates  near  Califermoss.  The  greatest  length 
from  the  point  on  the  N  in  Findhorn  Bay,  where  Forres 
unites  with  the  parishes  of  Kinloss  and  Dyke  and  Moy, 
to  the  point  on  the  S  where  it  unites  with  the  parishes 
of  Rafford  and  Edinkillie,  is  ej  miles  ;  and  the  breadth, 
from  E  to  W,  from  the  most  easterly  point  of  the  long 
projection  already  mentioned,  to  the  point  on  the  W  on 
the  river  Findhorn,  where  the  parishes  of  Forres,  Edin- 
killie, and  Dyke  and  Moy  unite,  is  5j.  Owing,  how- 
ever, to  its  irregular  shape,  the  area  is  only  5440  acres. 
The  surface  in  the  northern  district  is  low  and  level, 
and  is  highly  cultivated,  as  is  also  that  of  the  central 
district,  which  is  diversified  by  small  round  hills 
crowned  with  clumps  of  trees  that,  along  with  the  hedge- 
rows, give  to  the  neighbourhood  of  Forres  a  peculiarly 
English  aspect.  In  the  eastward  projection  the  ground 
rises  more  steeply,  and  at  Califcr  Hill  attains  a  height 
of  700  feet  above  sea-level.  The  wooded  ridge  of  Cluny 
HUl,  close  to  the  town  of  Forres,  is  noticed  in  the 
following  article.  The  woods  of  Altyre  in  the  S  are 
extensive  and,  in  some  places,  picturesque.  The  soil 
of  the  lower  and  central  districts  is  mostly  a  good 
loam,  but  in  parts  it  is  light  and  sandy,  and,  like 
most  of  the  '  Laich  of  Moray,  of  which  an  old  proverb 
says,  that 

'  A  misty  May  and  a  drappin'  June 
Put  the  bonnie  Land  o'  Moray  abune,* 

it  takes  a  good  deal  of  rain  in  the  earlier  part  of  the 
season  to  bring  the  crops  to  full  perfection.     The  soil  of 
the  southern  portion  is  poorer  and  in  parts  mossy.     The 
46 


FORRES 

underlying  rocks  are  sandstone  and  impure  limestone,  a 
quarry  in  the  latter  in  the  extreme  S  of  the  parish,  near 
Cothall,  being  sometimes  worked.  The  climate  is  good 
and  the  air  dry  and  pure.  The  parish  is  drained  by  the 
river  Findhorn,  flowing  5J  miles  northward  along  all  the 
western  border,  and  by  the  Burn  of  Forres  or  Altyre, 
which,  entering  from  Eafi'ord  parish,  winds  5^  miles 
northward  past  the  W  end  of  the  town,  till  it  falls  into 
Findhorn  Bay.  Although  the  mouth  of  this  burn  and 
the  mouth  proper  of  the  river  Findhorn  are  a  mile  apart 
along  the  edge  of  the  bay,  and  the  edge  of  the  bay  is 
more  than  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  town  of  Forres, 
yet,  during  the  great  flood  of  the  3  and  4  Aug.  1829, 
so  much  were  both  river  and  burn  swollen,  that  their 
waters  united  near  the  W  end  of  the  town  at  the  Castle 
Hill,  the  whole  of  the  low  country  to  the  N  being  under 
water.  '  The  view  of  the  inundated  plain  of  Forres, ' 
says  Sir  Thomas  Dick  Lauder,  '  from  the  Castlehill  of 
the  borough,  on  the  morning  of  the  4th,  though  truly 
magnificent,  was  such  as  to  overwhelm  the  mind  of  the 
spectator  with  dismay.  From  Mundole,  about  2  miles 
to  the  AV  of  Forres,  and  from  Forres  to  Findhorn,  about 
5  miles  to  the  N,  the  whole  plain  was  under  water. 
The  river  and  the  burn  met  under  the  Castlehill,  and 
the  inundation  spread  over  the  rich  and  variously 
cropped  fields,  and  over  hedges,  gardens,  orchards,  and 
plantations.  In  this  "world  of  waters"  the  mansions 
of  proprietors,  the  farmhouses  and  offices,  the  trees,  and 
especially  the  hedgerows,  giving  its  peculiarly  English 
appearance  to  the  environs  of  Forres — the  ricks  of  hay, 
and  here  and  there  a  few  patches  of  corn  standing  on 
situations  more  elevated  than  the  rest,  presented  a  truly 
wonderful  scene.  One-half  of  the  bridge  of  Forres,  over 
the  burn  immediately  under  the  Castlehill,  had  disap- 
peared during  the  night,  having  parted  longitudinally  ; 
and,  overthe  part  that  yet  remained,  the  people  on  the  W 
side  of  the  burn  were  hastily  removing  their  families, 
cattle,  and  furniture  to  the  hill  on  which  Forres  stands, 
after  having  waded  to  the  middle  to  rescue  them  from  the 
flood.'  The  Loch  of  Blairs,  measuring  3  by  2  furlongs, 
and  lying  2^  miles  SSW  of  tlie  toivn,  is  partly  in  Forres 
parish,  partly  in  Raff'ord.  The  parish  is  traversed  by  the 
Highland  railway  system.  The  line  from  Inverness  to 
Keith  passes  across  the  parish  near  the  centre  from  SW  to 
NE  for  a  distance  of  2  miles.  At  the  W  end  of  the  town 
of  Forres  the  Perth  section  of  the  line  branches  off  and 
passes  in  a  SE  direction  through  the  parish  for  more 
than  2J  miles.  At  the  SW  end  of  the  Inverness  and 
Keith  section,  the  Findhorn  is  crossed  by  a  heavy  plate- 
girder  bridge  with  3  spans  of  150  feet  each,  the  girders 
being  supported  by  massive  abutments  on  each  side, 
and  by  2  piers  in  the  waterway,  of  the  river.  The  piers 
are  founded  on  rock  15  feet  below  the  bed.  The  great 
road  from  Aberdeen  to  Inverness  passes  through  the 
parish  a  little  to  the  S  of  the  railway  for  a  distance  of 
24  miles.  It  passes  through  the  town  of  Forres,  and 
crosses  the  Findhorn  by  an  elegant  suspension  bridge, 
which  was  erected  in  1831  from  designs  by  Sir  Samuel 
Brown,  R.N.  The  river  was  formerly  crossed  at  the 
same  place  by  a  handsome  bridge  of  3  arches,  but  it  was 
swept  away  by  the  great  flood  of  1829,  and,  at  the  same 
time,  a  mile  of  the  turnpike  road  to  the  E  was  destroyed, 
and  '  left  in  deep  holes  full  of  salmon. '  The  present  bridge 
was  erected  to  replace  the  one  destroyed  by  the  flood.  It 
cost  nearly  £10,000,  and  the  last  remaining  toll  in  the 
county  of  Elgin  was  its  lately-abolished  pontage.  The 
chains  are  supported  at  either  side  of  the  river  by  well 
proportioned  Gothic  towers.  The  industries  of  the  parish 
are  connected  with  the  town  of  the  same  name,  and  are 
noticed  in  the  following  article.  Sanquhar  House,  f 
mile  S  of  the  tovm,  is  an  Elizabethan  structure,  in  plan 
resembling  a  double  cross,  and  greatly  enlarged  in  1863. 
The  main  building  is  two  stories  high,  and  at  the  NW 
corner  rises  an  octagonal  three-story  tower.  There 
are  good  gardens,  and  in  the  park  are  a  number  of  fine 
tree's ;  whilst  to  the  N  of  the  house  is  a  beautiful 
artificial  lake.  William  Fraser-Tytler  (1777-1853), 
eldest  son  of  Lord  Woodhouselee,  in  1801  married 
Margaret  Cussans,  only  daughter  and  heiress  of  George 


FORRES 

Grant  of  Eurdsyards  or  Sanquhar  ;  and  his  second  son, 
Charles  Edward  Fraser-Tj'tler  of  Aldourie  and  Balmain 
(1816-Sl),  who  held  1310  acres  in  Elginshire,  and 
15,978  in  Inverness-shire,  valued  at  £1813  and  £3151 
per  annum,  has  left  Aldoukie  in  the  former  county  to 
liis  eldest  surviving  son,  Edward  Grant,  and  Sanquhar 
to  the  third,  AVilliam  Theodore.  Invereme  House, 
which  is  IJ  mile  N  by  W  of  the  town,  is  a  quad- 
rangular building  cf  four  stories,  built  in  1818.  The 
old  name  of  it  was  Tannachy,  and  it  belonged  to  the 
family  of  Tulloch  of  Tannachy,  who,  however,  had  to 
part  with  it  in  1772.  The  name  has  been  changed  since 
the  present  proprietor  acquired  it  in  1834.  It  was  at 
ouo  time  the  residence  of  Charles  St  John,  the  well- 
known  author  of  JFild  Sports  of  the  Highlands  and  of 
Natural  History  and  Sport  in  Moray.  Forres  House, 
which  is  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town,  has  a  large 
garden  and  policies  extending  to  the  base  of  the  Cluny 
Hill.  The  site  was  formerly  occupied  by  a  fine  old 
mansion-house  which  also  belonged  to  the  Tannachy 
family.  Drumduan  House  is  near  the  E  end  of  the 
to\vn.  Seven  ^proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of 
£500  or  upwards,  15  of  between  £100  and  £500,  43 
of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  69  of  from  £20  to  £50. 
The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Forres  and  synod 
of  Moray  ;  the  living  is  worth  £386.  The  public, 
the  infant  public,  and  the  industrial  Episcopalian 
school,  with  respective  accommodation  for  400,  169, 
and  108  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of 
269,  118,  and  86,  and  grants  of  £240,  10s.,  £88,  17s., 
and  £76,  ISs.  A''aluation,  exclusive  of  burgh,  (1881) 
£7787,  4s.  Pop.  (1801)  3114,  (1831)  3895,  (1861)  4112, 
(1871)  4562,  (1881)  4762.— Orrf.  Sur.,  shs.  84,  85,  94, 
1876-78. 

Forres  is  the  seat  of  a  presbytery  in  the  synod  of 
Moray,  comprehending  the  parishes  of  Forres,  Dallas, 
Dyke,  Edinkillie,  Kinloss,  and  Rafford.  Pop.  (1871) 
10,359,  (1881)  10,202,  of  whom  760  were  communicants 
of  the  Church  of  Scotland  in  1878.— The  Free  Church 
has  also  a  presbytery  of  Forres,  including  churches 
in  the  same  sis  parishes,  which  together  had  1960 
members  in  1881. 

Forres,  a  town,  with  the  privileges  of  a  royal  burgh, 
in  the  centre  of  the  foregoing  parish.  It  stands  on  a 
terraced  ridge,  extending  from  E  to  W,  and  sloping 
gently  to  the  N"  and  S.  The  site  is  pleasant  and  well 
sheltered,  the  surrounding  country  finely  wooded  and 
beautiful ;  and  the  sheltered  situation  combined  with 
the  dry  soil  makes  it  one  of  the  healthiest  places  in 
Scotland,  so  much  so,  indeed,  that  it  has  sometimes 
been  called  the  Montpelier  of  Scotland.  The  large 
number  of  detached  villas  and  the  great  extent  of 
garden  ground  give  the  town  the  appearance  of  being 
much  larger  and  having  a  gi'eat  many  more  inhabitants 
than  is  actually  the  case.  The  station  on  the  Highland 
railway,  greatly  improved  in  1876-77,  is  the  junction  of 
the  Inverness,  the  Keith,  and  the  Perth  sections  of  the 
system.  The  railway  convenience  thus  afforded  has 
greatly  aided  in  the  development  of  the  town  and  the 
increase  in  its  trade  and  population  that  have  taken 
place  in  recent  years.  By  rail  it  is  6  miles  S  of  Find- 
horn,  12  "W  by  S  of  Elgin,  30  WNW  of  Keith,  83i  N"\V 
by  W  of  Aberdeen,  25  EKE  of  Inverness,  166  NN-rt  of 
Edinburgh,  and  182  NNE  of  Glasgow. 

The  name  Forres  is  probably  the  Gaelic  far,  'near,'  and 
uis,  '  water  ; '  but  however  that  may  be,  it  is  a  place  of 
considerable  antiquity.  It  has  been  by  many  wi-iters 
identified  with  the  Varris  of  Ptolemy's  chart,  and 
mention  is  made  by  Boece  that  so  early  as  535  certain  of 
its  merchants  were  for  some  trifling  cause  put  to  death 
and  their  goods  confiscated  to  the  king.  Malcolm  I.  is 
said  to  have  resided  in  the  neighbourhood ;  and  Ulurn 
or  Vlern,  where,  according  to  the  later  chronicles,  he 
was  killed  in  954,  has  by  some  writers  been  identified 
with  Blervie  Castle,  4J  miles  ESE  of  Forres.  (See 
Fetteresso.  )  King  Dubh  or  Duffus,  the  son  of  Mal- 
colm, is  said  to  have  been  murdered  in  the  castle  at 
Forres  by  Donald,  the  governor,  in  967  ;  and  there  is  a 
curious  story  that  his  body  was  hidden  under  the  bridge 


FORRES 

of  Kinloss,  and  that,  till  it  was  found,  the  sun  did  not 
"hine.  At  Forres,  according  to  Boece,  the  'gracious' 
King  Duncan  held  his  court,  and  Shakespeare,  founding 
thereon,  has  made  Macbeth  and  Banquo,  going  to  the 
camp,  meet  the  weird  sisters  on  the  Hard  Muir,  in  the 
parish  of  Dyke  close  by — 

*  How  far  is't  called  to  Fon*es  ? ' 

Though  early  Forres  thus  was  evidently  a  place  of  as 
much  importance  as  or  even  more  than  Elgin,  it  does 
not  seem  to  have  been  able  to  keep  pace  with  its  rival 
after  the  foundation  of  the  bishopric,  when  Elgin  be- 
came the  centre  of  ecclesiastical  power  and  influence  in 
the  province.  At  what  date  Forres  became  a  royal  burgh 
is  uncertain,  as  all  the  older  charters  have  been  lost, 
and  the  oldest  now  remaining  is  one  of  De  novo  damus, 
granted  by  King  James  IV.,  and  dated  23  June  1496.  It 
narrates  that  the  king,  '  understanding  that  the  ancient 
charters  granted  to  the  town  of  Forres  have  been  de- 
stroyed in  time  of  war  or  by  the  violence  of  fire,'  now 
grants  anew  in  free  burgage  all  the  lands  and  rights 
formerly  belonging  to  the  community,  ivith  power  to 
elect  a  provost  and  bailies,  etc. ,  who  were  to  exercise 
jurisdiction  within  the  burgh  boundaries.  Liberty  was 
also  given  to  erect  a  cross  and  to  hold  '  a  weekly  mar- 
ket on  Friday,  and  an  annual  fair,  beginning  on  the 
Vigil  of  St  Lawrence,  and  to  continue  for  eight  days 
.  .  .  with  all  and  sundry  other  privileges  and  im- 
munities of  a  free  bm'gh.'  The  oldest  notices  of  the 
place  that  exist  from  contemporary  documents  are  in 
connection  with  the  castle,  which  stood  on  a  green 
mound  at  the  "W  end  of  the  town,  now  known  as  the 
Castle  Hill.     A  northern  bard  has  declared  that 

* .  .  .  Forres,  in  the  days  of  yore, 
A  name  'mang  Scotia's  cities  bore. 
And  there  her  judges  o'er  and  o'er 

Did  Scotland's  laws  dispense ; 
And  there  the  monarchs  of  the  land 
In  former  days  held  high  command. 
And  ancient  architects  had  planned, 
By  rules  of  art  in  order  grand. 

The  royal  residence.' 

The  older  castle  of  Forres,  where  King  Dufi'us  is  said  to 
have  been  murdered,  and  which  is  said  to  have  been 
razed  after  his  death,  was  probably  by  no  means  so 
grand  as  this,  and  was  very  possibly  of  %vood.  '  Its 
keep  and  walls  were  no  doubt  strengthened,  if  not 
rebuilt,  in  the  reign  of  David  I.,  when  the  town  which 
it  protected  is  first  mentioned  as  a  king's  burgh.  It  was 
then  surrounded  by  a  forest,  in  which  the  burgesses  had 
the  privilege  of  wood-bote  granted  to  them  by  that 
monarch.'  The  castle  was  a  royal  residence,  and 
William  the  Lyon  dated  charters  here  in  1189  and  1198, 
and  Alexander  II.  dated  a  charter  from  the  same  place 
in  1238.  In  1264  William  Wiseman,  sheriff  of  Forres, 
paid  £10  for  the  erection  of  a  new  tower  be3'ond  the 
king's  chamber ;  and  in  the  chamberlain's  accounts 
about  the  same  time,  in  the  reign  of  Alexander  III., 
there  are  entries  of  expenditure  for  various  articles  for 
the  king's  table  here.  King  David  II.  issued  a  writ  at 
the  castle  of  Forres  in  1367,  and  it  is  mentioned  again 
in  1371  under  Robert  II.  The  castle  was  the  oilicial 
residence  of  the  hereditary  sheriff's  of  Moray,  and  so 
was  in  the  possession  of  the  family  of  Dunbar  of  West- 
field  for  more  than  300  years.  From  them  it  passed  to 
the  Earl  of  Seafleld,  and  now  belongs  to  Sir  Charles  R. 
Macgrigor,  Bart.,  London.  The  ruins  which  now  stand 
on  the  Castle  Hill  are  not  the  remains  of  the  old  castle, 
hut  the  relics  of  a  house  projected  and  partly  built  by 
William  Dawson,  provost  of  Forres,  about  1712.  The 
foundations  of  the  old  castle  were  exposed  when  the  NW 
slope  of  the  hill  was  being  planted  with  trees  nearly 
twenty  years  ago.  On  the  level  space  to  the  W  of  the 
ruins  stands  a  lofty  obelisk  of  polished  Peterhead  gran- 
ite resting  on  a  freestone  base.  This  base  is  24  feet 
square  ;  the  die  of  the  obelisk  is  9J  feet  square  ;  and 
the  whole  structure  rises  to  a  height  of  65  feet.  It  was 
erected  by  public  subscription,  in  1857,  in  memory  of 
Assistant-Surgeon  James  Thomson,  who,  as  set  forth  in 
the  inscription,  was  present  with  the  54th  Regiment  'at 

47 


FORRES 


FORRES 


the  battle  of  Alma  in  1854  ;  and  a  few  days  afterwards, 
when  the  British  were  leaving  the  field,  volunteered 
to  remain  behind  with  700  desperately  wounded  Rus- 
sians. Isolated  from  his  countrymen,  endangered  by 
the  vicinity  of  large  bodies  of  Cossacks,  ill-supplied  with 
food,  and  exposed  to  the  risk  of  pestilence,  he  succeeded 
in  restoring  to  health  about  400  of  the  enemy  and  em- 
barking them  for  Odessa.  He  then  died  from  the  effects 
of  excessive  hardships  and  privation.  This  public 
monument  is  erected  as  a  tribute  of  respect  for  the  virtue 
of  an  officer  whose  life  was  useful  and  whose  death  was 
glorious. '  Dr  Thomson  was  a  native  of  Cromarty,  but 
the  authorities  there  refused  a  suitable  site  for  the 
obelisk,  and  the  subscribers  accepted  the  offer  of  Dr 
Thomson's  friend,  Sir  Charles  R.  Macgrigor,  of  this  site 
on  the  Castle  Hill  at  Forres.  Opposite  the  entrance  to 
the  Castle  Hill  on  the  site  now  occupied  by  Auchernack 
Cottage  stood  a  humble  house,  where  James  Dick  (1743- 
1S28),  the  founder  of  the  Dick  Bequest,  was  born.  Early 
in  the  present  century  Mr  Dick  had  accumulated  in 
America  the  large  fortune  of  £140,000.  This  fortune  he 
at  his  death  bequeathed  to  trustees  for  the  benefit  of  the 
parochial  schoolmasters  in  the  counties  of  Aberdeen, 
Banff,  and  Elgin  ;  and  so  well  has  the  fund  Iseen  man- 
aged by  the  Society  of  Writers  to  the  Signet,  that  the 
principal  teacher  of  one  school  in  every  parish  in  these 
counties  receives,  after  passing  a  qualifying  examination, 
from  £20  to  £30  from  this  fund.  Besicles  the  castle, 
other  objects  of  antiquarian  interest  that  may  be  men- 
tioned are  Sueno's  Stone  and  the  Witch's  Stone.  Both 
are  at  the  E  end  of  the  town  near  the  old  toll-house, 
Sueno's  Stone  being  to  the  E  and  the  Witch's  Stone  to 
the  W  of  it.  Sueno's  Stone  is  an  elaborately  carved 
pillar  of  hard  reddish  grey  sandstone,  about  23  feet  high, 
4  wide  at  the  base,  and  15  inches  thick.  The  broad 
faces  are  towards  the  N  and  S.  On  the  N  side  are  three 
divisions.  Below  are  two  figures  seemingly  bending 
towards  one  another,  while  a  smaller  human  figure 
stands  behind  each.  In  the  upper  division  is  a  long 
cross,  with  a  circle  at  the  intersection  of  the  arms.  The 
cross  and  the  whole  of  the  centre  division  are  covered 
with  elaborate  carving,  forming  so-caUed  Runic  knots. 
The  edges  are  also  covered  with  Runic  knotting,  and  at 
the  base  of  one  of  them  are  several  figures,  seemingly 
females.  On  the  S  side  there  are  five  divisions.  The 
first  shows  groups  of  figures,  with  the  walls  of  some 
building  in  the  background  ;  the  second  lias  a  body  of 
horsemen  advancing  at  full  gallop,  and  infantry  follow- 
ing with  spears  in  their  hands  and  shields  on  their  arms. 
The  sculptured  figures  in  the  third  are  engaged  in  battle ; 
at  the  top  warriors  seem  to  be  attacking  a  gateway  ;  and 
in  one  of  the  corners  are  a  number  of  headless  bodies. 
The  fourth  division  shows  bound  captives,  some  appar- 
ently women,  while  above  is  a  row  of  warriors  with  un- 
sheathed swords.  The  last  division  is  much  worn,  but 
seems  to  have  contained  a  number  of  figures  on  horse- 
back. The  stone  received  its  name  from  Boece's  sup- 
position that  it  was  erected  to  commemorate  a  victory  of 
Sueno,  son  of  Harakl,  King  of  Denmark,  gained  at 
Forres  over  the  forces  of  Malcolm  II.  in  1008.  Dr 
Skene,  however,  inclines  to  the  belief  that  it  comme- 
morates a  fray  in  the  year  900  between  Sigurd  the 
Powerful,  Norwegian  Earl  of  Orkney,  and  a  Scottish 
earl,  Melbrigda,  in  which  the  latter  fell  and  all  his  men 
with  him.  '  Earl  Sigurd  and  his  men  fastened  their 
heads  to  the  saddle-straps  in  bravado,  and  so  they  rode 
home  triumphing  in  their  victory.  As  they  were  proceed- 
ing Earl  Sigurd,  intending  to  kick  at  his  horse  with  his 
foot,  struck  the  calf  of  his  leg  against  a  tooth  protrud- 
ing from  Earl  Melbrigda's  head,  which  scratched  him 
.'ilightly  ;  but  it  soon  became  swollen  and  painful,  and 
he  died  of  it.  He  was  buried  in  a  mound  at  Ekkials- 
bakki,'  which  Dr  Skene  proceeds  to  identify  with  the 
river  Findhorn  {Celtic  Scotland,  i.  337,  1876).  In 
1813  eight  human  skeletons  were  found  near  the  pillar ; 
and  in  1827  a  large  stone  coffin  was  dug  out  of  a  steep 
bank  above  the  Findhorn.  Of  the  pillar  there  is  an 
excellent  drawing  in  the  first  volume  of  Stuart's  Sculp- 
tured Stones  of  Scotland  (Plates  xviii.  -xxi. ).  The  Witch's 
48 


Stone  is  at  the  foot  of  the  hawthorn  hedge  on  the  S  side 
of  the  turnpike  road  to  the  W  of  the  old  toll-house.  It 
is  the  remaining  one  of  three  stones  which  traditionally 
marked  the  spot  where  three  witches,  accused  of  plotting 
the  death  of  King  Duffus,  were  put  to  death.  The  king, 
according  to  the  tradition  preserved,  after  returning  from 
one  of  his  visits  to  Forres,  was  taken  ill  at  Scone.  His 
physicians,  unable  to  check  the  disease,  concluded  that 
ho  had  been  bewitched  while  in  the  North,  and  instruc- 
tions were  sent  to  the  governor  of  the  castle  to  institute 
inquiries.  The  witches  were  surprised  at  midnight,  and 
found  with  a  wax  image  of  the  king  slowly  melting 
before  the  fire.  They  were  immediately  seized  and 
taken  to  the  top  of  Cluny  Hill,  and  there  each  was 
placed  in  a  barrel.  The  barrels  were  then  sent  rolling 
down  the  hill,  and  at  the  place  where  they  stopped  they 
and  their  contents  were  burned,  and  stones  set  up  to  mark 
the  spot.  The  survivor  at  one  time  was  broken  up  for 
building  purposes,  but  the  town  authorities  caused  the 
pieces  to  be  brought  back,  clasped  with  iron,  and  placed 
in  the  original  position.  A  stone  within  the  field  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  road  is  said  to  be  another  of 
the  three,  but  this  is  doubtful.  Forres  seems  to  have 
been,  from  the  days  of  the  weird  sisters  downwards,  a 
place  of  note  for  witches  ;  and  the  last  of  them,  an  old 
woman  named  Dorothy  Calder,  was,  by  the  aid  of  fifteen 
cart-loads  of  peats,  burned  to  death  early  in  last  cen- 
tury on  the  top  of  Drumduan  Hill,  the  common  place 
of  execution.  Near  the  centre  of  the  town  stands  the 
town-house,  built  in  1839  on  the  site  of  the  old  Tol- 
booth,  which  dated  from  1700.  The  present  building 
is  in  the  Tudor  style,  mth  a  handsome  square  tower. 
It  contains  the  council  chamber,  the  town-clerk's  offices, 
and  the  court-room.  Close  to  it,  in  the  centre  of  the 
street,  is  a  neat  little  market-cross,  erected  in  1844. 
It  is  an  imitation  of  the  great  crosses  of  the  Middle 
Ages,  and  somewhat  resembles,  though  on  a  very  small 
scale,  the  Edinburgh  monument  to  Sir  Walter  Scott. 
A  little  to  the  W  is  the  Falconer  Museum  (1870),  a 
neat  building  in  the  Italian  style.  The  expense  of  its 
erection  was  covered  by  a  sum  of  money  bequeathed  for 
this  purpose  by  Alexander  Falconer  in  1856,  and  a  far- 
ther bequest  by  his  brother,  the  late  Dr  Hugh  Falconer 
(another  of  the  distinguished  sons  of  Forres),  so  weU. 
known  for  his  palaeontological  labours,  who  besides  be- 
queathed to  it  a  number  of  curiosities  as  a  nucleus  for 
the  collection.  It  contains  a  number  of  the  Sewalik 
fossils  discovered  and  admirably  described  by  Dr  Fal- 
coner, and  the  collection  of  Old  Red  sandstone  fishes 
formed  by  the  late  Lady  Gordon-Cumming  of  Altyre, 
many  of  them  being  specimens  described  and  named  by 
Agassiz.  The  Mechanics'  Institute  is  on  the  N  side  of 
High  Street.  It  is  a  massive  quasi-classical  building, 
with  a  good  library,  etc. ,  and  contains  two  large  halls, 
which  are  used  for  public  meetings,  concerts,  etc. 
Anderson's  Institution  was  erected  in  accordance  with  a 
deed  of  settlement  of  a  native  of  Forres,  Jonathan  An- 
derson, who,  in  1814,  made  over  to  the  magistrates  and 
town  council  the  lands  of  Cowlairs,  near  Glasgow,  for 
the  purpose  of  erecting  a  school  and  paying  a  teacher,  so 
that  the  children  of  necessitous  parents  in  the  parishes 
of  Forres,  Rafford,  and  Kinloss  might  be  instructed  in 
reading,  English,  writing,  arithmetic,  and  such  other 
branches  of  education  as  the  provost,  magistrates,  and 
town  council  should  judge  proper.  It  is  a  Grecian 
structure  of  1824,  remodelled  in  1881,  at  a  cost  of  over 
£3000,  to  meet  the  requirements  of  the  Education  Act. 
The  Agricultural  Hall  was  erected,  in  1867,  by  a  joint- 
stock  company  at  a  cost  of  £1700.  It  is  an  oblong 
building,  Grecian  in  style,  and  measures  150  by  58  feet. 
In  it  are  held  the  Christmas  shows  of  the  Forres  and 
Northern  Fat  Cattle  Club.  A  gallery  along  the  sides 
and  the  N  end  gives  space  for  the  display  of  grain, 
seeds,  farm-implements,  etc.  The  market  buildings 
were  erected  also  by  a  joint-stock  company  in  1851  ; 
and  an  auction  mart  was  opened  in  1877.  Gas  was 
introduced  in  1837,  and  water  in  1848.  The  parish 
church  was  built  in  1775,  and  repaired  in  1839,  and 
again  in  1860  ;  there  is  accommodation  for  over  1000 


I 


FOERES 

worshippers.  It  stands  on  the  site  of  the  old  church  of 
St  Lawrence.  There  are  a  Free  church  (783  sittings),  a 
Gothic  United  Presbyterian  church  (1871),  with  several 
stained-glass  windows,  superseding  a  building  of  date 
1812,  St  John's  Episcopal  church  (1840),  Italian  in 
style,  a  Gothic  Independent  church  (1866),  an  Evan- 
gelical Union  church,  and  a  Baptist  chapel  (1860). 

To  the  SE  of  the  town  is  the  wooded  ridge  of  the 
Cluny  Hill,  which  belongs  to  the  burgh,  and  is  laid  out 
for  the  recreation  of  the  inhabitants.  The  ridge  is 
covered  with  fine  plantations,  and  walks  wind  along  in 
all  directions  amid  the  trees.  There  are  three  distinct 
hills,  and  on  the  summit  of  the  highest  is  an  octagonal 
tower,  erected  by  public  subscription  in  1806  to  com- 
memorate Lord  Nelson  and  his  victories.  It  is  24  feet 
in  diameter,  and  70  high.  On  panels  on  the  outside 
are  inscribed  '  In  memory  of  Admiral  Lord  Nelson,' 
'Nile,  1  August  1798,'  'Copenhagen,  2  April  1801,' 
and  'Trafalgar,  21  August  1805.'  There  are  a  number 
of  floors,  and  the  room  on  the  first  contains  a  marble 
bust  of  Lord  Nelson.  The  top  is  reached  by  a  spiral 
stair,  and  the  view  therefrom  is  magnificent.  The 
eye  ranges  over  a  wide  expanse  of  country,  beginning 
with  the  richly  wooded  plains  of  Kinloss,  Forres,  and 
Dyke  and  Moy,  and  passing  over  the  Moray  Firth  to 
the  distant  blue  hills  of  Ross  and  Sutherland.  On  the 
southern  slope  of  the  hill  is  the  Cluny  Hill  Hydro- 
pathic Establishment,  admirably  situated  on  dry  soil, 
■Nvith  a  sheltered  and  sunny  exposure,  and  commanding 
an  extensive  and  fine  view. 

Forres  has  a  head  post  office,  with  money  order,  sav- 
ings' bank,  insurance,  and  telegraph  departments,  offices 
of  the  British  Linen,  National,  Caledonian,  and  Eoyal 
Banks,  a  National  Security  Savings'  bank,  agencies  of 
19  insurance  companies,  9  hotels  and  inns,  a  branch  of 
the  Bible  Society,  a  number  of  religious  and  charitable 
societies,  a  property  investment  company,  3  masonic 
lodges,  a  cricket  club,  etc.  There  are  also  a  woollen 
manufactory,  a  chemical  work,  a  bone-mill,  two  flour- 
mills,  a  saw-mill,  and  a  brewery.  The  Liberal  Forres, 
Elgin,  and  Nairn  Gazette  (1837)  is  published  on  Wed- 
nesday ;  the  Independent  Moray  and  Nairn  Express 
(1880)  on  Tuesday  and  Friday.  A  weekly  market  is  held 
on  Tuesday,  and  fairs  for  cattle  and  other  live  stock  are 
held  on  the  Tuesday  before  the  third  AVednesday  of 
January,  February,  March,  and  April,  on  the  Tuesday 
before  the  second  Wednesday  of  Jlay,  on  the  second 
Tuesday  of  June,  on  the  first  Tuesday  of  August,  on  the 
fourth  Tuesday  of  September  and  October,  and  on  the 
Tuesday  before  the  third  Wednesday  of  November.  A 
lamb  fair  is  held  on  the  first  Tuesday  of  July,  and  a  fair 
for  fat  stock  on  the  Tuesday  in  December  before  the 
London  Christmas  market.  Hiring  fairs  are  held  on 
the  Saturday  before  26  May,  on  the  first  Tuesday  of 
August,  and  on  the  Satiu'day  before  22  November. 
Justice  of  Peace  courts  sit  on  the  first  Monday  of 
each  mouth,  and  the  sheriff  holds  a  small  debt  circuit 

court  on  the  second 
Monday  of  Febru- 
ary, AprU,  June, 
August,  October, 
and  December. 
The  town  is  gov- 
erned by  a  provost, 
3  bailies,  a  dean  of 
guild,  a  treasurer, 
and  11  councillors, 
who,  under  the 
LindsayAct,adopt- 
ed  in  1865,  are  also 
commissioners  of 
police.  The  town 
possesses  extensive 
lands,  the  bound- 
ary of  which,  ex- 
tending over  about 
15  miles,  was  officially  perambulated  in  1840.  The  arms 
of  the  to^vn  are  Saint  Lawrence  (the  patron  saint) 
in  a  long  habit,  holding  a  gridiron :   round  his  heacl 


Seal  of  Forres. 


FORTEVIOT 

is  a  nimbus,  at  his  right  side  is  a  crescent,  and  at  the 
loft  a  star  of  six  points ;  in  his  right  liand  is  a  book. 
The  motto  is  Jcliova  tii,  miki  Beus,  quid  deest  ?  Forres 
unites  with  Inverness,  Nairn,  and  Fortrose  in  return- 
ing a  member  to  parliament,  its  parliamentary  and 
municipal  constituency  numbering  407  in  1882.  Cor- 
poration revenue  (1832)  £620,  (1854)  £707,  (1879) 
£2235,  (1881)  £1715.  Burgh  valuation  (1867)  £7796, 
(1875)  £11,116,  (1882)  £14,498.  Pop.  of  parliamentary 
and  police  burgh  (1851)  3468,  (1861)  4112,  (1871)  3959, 
(1881)  4030,  of  whom  2257  were  females,  and  3110  were 
in  the  royal  burgh. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  84,  1876. 

Forrestfield,  a  North  British  station,  at  the  N  border 
of  Shotts  parish,  Lanarkshire,  near  the  meeting-point 
\rith  Linlithgow  and  Stirling  shires,  6J  miles  ENE  of 
Airdrie,  and  8  W  by  S  of  Bathgate. 

Forrestmill.     See  Foeestmill. 

Forrig.     See  Fokgue. 

Forsa,  a  rivulet  of  Torosay  parish,  MuU  island,  Argyll- 
shire. Rising  on  the  skirt  of  BentaUoch,  it  runs  6  J  miles 
north-north-westward  along  a  glen  called  from  it  Glen- 
forsa,  and  falls  into  the  Sound  of  Mull  at  Pennygown, 
where  its  width  is  22  yards.  It  contains  both  salmon 
and  sea-trout,  and  is  open  to  anglers  from  the  Salen 
Hotel.  Glenforsa  has  an  average  width  of  J  mile,  and 
is  flanked  by  grassy  or  heathy  hills,  that  rise  with  an 
acclivity  of  30  degrees. 

Forse,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion.  In  Latheron  parish, 
Caithness,  2i  miles  W  of  Lybster.  Its  owner,  George 
Sutherland,  iEsq.  (h.  1827  ;  sue.  1846),  holds  8000  acres 
in  the  county,  valued  at  £2482  per  annum.  Forse 
fishing  hamlet,  2  miles  WSW  of  Lybster,  has  an  inn  ; 
and  on  the  cliffs  here  is  the  site  of  an  old  castle. 

Forsinard,  a  station,  an  inn,  and  a  post  office  in  Reay 
parish,  E  Sutherland,  on  the  Sutherland  and  Caith- 
ness railway,  20J  miles  SW  of  Halkirk,  24i  NNW  of 
Helmsdale,  and  35i  WSW  of  Wick. 

Forss,  a  stream  and  an  estate  of  NW  Caithness.  Forss 
Water,  issuing  from  Loch  Shurrery  (321  feet),  winds  12J 
miles  northward,  through  or  along  the  borders  of  Reay, 
Halkirk,  and  Thurso  parishes,  till  it  falls  into  the  North 
Sea  at  Crosskirk  Bay.  It  is  subject  to  great  freshets,  doing 
much  injury  to  the  lands  near  its  banks ;  and  is  well 
frequented  by  sea-trout  and  grUse.  Forss  House,  near 
the  right  bank  of  the  stream,  5J  miles  W  of  Thurso 
town,  is  the  seat  of  Charles  Wemyss  Sinclair,  Esq.  (b. 
1862;  sue.  1376),  who  owns  12,700  acres  in  the  county 
valued  at  £5610  per  annum.  There  is  a  post  office  of 
Forss  under  Thurso. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  115,  1878. 

Fort  Augustus.    See  Augustus  Fokt. 

Fort  Charlotte.    See  Lerwick. 

Forter,  an  ancient  castle  of  the  OgOvies  in  Glenisla 
parish,  Forfarshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Isla,  4 
miles  NNW  of  Kirkton  of  Glenisla.  Commanding  the 
glen,  together  with  passes  leading  to  Glenshee  and  Brae- 
mar,  it  was  plundered  and  destroyed  by  the  Earl  (later 
Marquis)  of  Argyll  in  July  1640 — the  month  of  the 
burning  of  the  '  bonnie  house  of  Airlie.'  It  appears  to 
have  been  a  place  of  considerable  size  and  strength ; 
and  is  now  represented  by  walls  partly  almost  entire, 
and  partly  ruinous. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  56,  1870. 

Forteviot,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  SE  Perthshire. 
The  village  stands,  60  feet  above  sea-level,  on  the  right 
bank  of  May  Water,  i  mile  above  its  influx  to  the  Earn, 
and  has  a  station  on  the  Scottish  Central  section  of  the 
Caledonian,  7  miles  SW  of  Perth,  under  which  there  is 
a  post  office  of  Forteviot.  On  a  small  eminence  now 
called  the  Halyhill,  at  the  W  end  of  the  village,  over- 
hanging May  Water,  stood  Fortevieth,  the  ancient 
capital  of  Fortrenn.  According  to  the  legend  of  the 
foundation  of  St  Andrews,  Angus  mac  Fergus,  King  of 
the  Picts  (731-61),  here  built  a  church,  his  three  sons 
having  already  dedicated  a  tenth  of  the  city  to  God  and 
St  Andrew  ;  and  in  his  palace  here  Kenneth  mac  Alpin 
died  in  860.  Wynton  records  a  cmious  story  that 
Malcolm  Ceannmor  was  an  illegitimate  son  of  King 
Duncan  by  the  miller  of  Forteviot's  daughter  :  anyhow, 
Forteviot  was  a  favourite  residence  with  Malcolm  ;  and 
on    the   '  Miller's  Acre,'   near   the   Halyhill,    Edward 

49 


FORT  GEORGE 

Baliol's  army  encamped  before  the  battle  of  Dutplin 
(1332). 

The  parish,  comprising  the  ancient  parishes  of  Fort- 
evict  and  Muckersie,  consists  of  three  separate  portions 
— the  main  body,  containing  the  village ;  the  Kirkton 
Hill  section,  immediately  W  of  Craigend  village,  and  2 
miles  ENE  of  the  main  body  ;  and  the  Struie  section, 
1 J  mile  SE  of  the  southern  extremity  of  the  main  body. 
The  said  main  body  is  bounded  N  by  Tibbermore  and 
Aberdalgie,  E  and  SE  by  Forgandenny,  SW  by  Dunning, 
and  W  by  Dunning  and  Findo  Gask.  Its  utmost  length, 
from  NNW  to  SSE,  is  4|  miles  ;  and  its  utmost  breadth, 
from  E  to  W,  is  2f  miles.  The  Struie  section  (2^  x  1§ 
miles)  is  bounded  E  by  Arngask,  SE  and  SW  by  Orwell, 
and  on  all  other  sides  by  Forgandenny  ;  and  the  Kirkton 
Hill  section  (Ig  x  If  mile)  is  bounded  N  and  NE  by 
Perth,  E  by  Dunbarny,  S  by  Dunbarny  and  Forgan- 
denny, and  W  by  Aberdalgie.  The  area  of  the  whole  is 
7952J  acres,  of  which  2893§  belong  to  the  detached 
sections,  and  167J  are  water.  In  the  main  body,  the 
Eakn  winds  3|  miles  east-north-eastward,  viz.,  5  fur- 
longs along  the  Findo  Gask  and  Dunning  border,  next 
1^  mile  across  the  interior,  then  If  mile  along  the 
Aberdalgie  border ;  and  its  beautiful  aiHuent,  Mat 
Water,  after  tracing  J  mile  of  the  Forgandenny  border, 
runs  3  miles  westward  and  north-by- westward  through 
the  interior.  Dupplin  Lake  (3 J  x  2^  furl. )  lies,  at  an 
altitude  of  410  feet,  towards  the  north-western  corner. 
Along  the  Earn  the  surface  declines  to  close  upon  30 
feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  to  431  feet  near  Upper 
Cairnie  and  504  near  Invermay  home  farm.  The  Struie 
section  is  drained  by  Slateford  Burn  to  May  Water, 
which  itself  traces  44  furlongs  of  the  north-western 
border  ;  its  surface,  a  portion  of  the  Ochils,  rises  north- 
ward from  500  feet  to  1194  on  Dochrie  Hill  at  its 
southern  extremity.  Lastly,  the  north-eastern  section 
attains  596  feet  in  Kirkton  Hill,  and  is  washed  on  the 
S  by  the  winding  Earn.  The  rocks  are  chiefly  eruptive 
and  Devonian  ;  and  the  soil  along  the  Earn  is  of  high 
fertDity ;  whilst  the  southern  and  north-western  por- 
tions of  the  main  body  are  finely  wooded.  Invermay, 
the  chief  mansion,  is  noticed  separately ;  and  4  pro- 
prietors hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  up- 
wards, 5  of  between  £100  and  £500,  2  of  from  £50  to 
£100,  and  2  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Forteviot  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Perth  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling ; 
the  living  is  worth  £339.  The  church,  at  the  village, 
erected  in  1778,  contains  250  sittings ;  and  the  old 
church  of  Muckersie,  on  the  May's  left  bank,  1  mile 
ESE  of  Invermay,  was  long  the  burying-place  of  the 
Belshes  family.  A  public  school,  with  accommodation 
for  98  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  61, 
and  a  grant  of  £62,  4s.  6d.  Valuation  (1843)  £6301, 
(1882)  £8261,  13s.  6d.  Pop.  (1801)  786,  (1831)  624, 
(1861)  595,  (1871)  567,  (1881)  61S.—0rd.  Sur.,  shs.  48, 
40,  1868-67. 

Fort  George.    See  Geoege,  Fokt. 

Forth,  a  mining  village  and  a  quoad  saara  parish  in 
Carnwath  parish,  E  Lanarkshire.  The  village,  standing 
800  feet  above  sea-level,  is  1  mile  SSW  of  Wilsontown, 
3  miles  W  of  Auchengray  station,  and  7f  NNE  of 
Lanark,  under  which  it  has  a  post  office.  At  it  are  an 
Established  church,  a  Free  church,  a  branch  bank  of 
the  British  Linen  Co.,  an  hotel,  and  a  public  school, 
which,  with  accommodation  for  250  children,  had  (1881) 
an  average  attendance  of  141,  and  a  grant  of  £116,  12s. 
The  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  the  presbytery  of  Lanark 
and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  was  constituted  in 
1881.  Pop.  of  village  (1871)  784,  (1881)  757  ;  of  parish 
(18S1)  2072.— Ord  Sur.,  sh.  23,  1865. 

Forth,  a  river  and  an  estuary  flowing  through  or 
between  Stirlingshire,  Perthshire,  Clackmannanshire, 
Fife,  and  the  Lothians.  The  river  is  formed  by  two 
head-streams,  Duchray  Water  and  the  Avondhu  ('  black 
water'),  rising  2|  miles  distant  from  one  another,  and 
cfiecting  a  confluence  at  a  point  1  mile  W  of  the  hamlet 
of  Aberfoyle.  Duchray  Water,  rising,  at  an  altitude  of 
3000  feet,  on  the  N  side  of  Ben  Lomond  (3192),  If  mile 
E  of  the  shore  of  the  loch,  winds  13f  miles  north- 
50 


FORTH 

north-eastward,  south-eastward,  and  east-north-eastward 
through  the  interior  or  along  the  borders  of  Buchanan, 
Drymen,  and  Aberfoyle  parishes,  for  6f  mUes  tracing 
the  boundary  between  Stirling  and  Perth  shires.  The 
Avondhu,  rising,  on  the  western  border  of  Aberfoyle 
parish,  at  an  altitude  of  1900  feet,  flows  9  miles  east- 
south-eastward,  and  expands,  in  its  progress,  into  Loch 
Chon  (If  X  f  mile  ;  290  feet)  and  the  famous  Loch  Akd 
(2J  mUes  x  |  mile  ;  103  feet).  Both  of  the  head-streams 
traverse  a  grandly  mountainous  country,  and  abound  in 
imposing  and  romantic  scenery.  From  their  confluence, 
80  feet  above  sea-level,  the  united  stream  winds  east- 
south-eastward  to  Stirling,  through  or  along  the  borders 
of  the  parishes  of  Aberfoyle,  Drymen,  Port  of  Monteith, 
Kippen,  Gargunnock,  Kincardine,  St  Ninians,  Lecroft, 
and  Logic,  during  greater  part  of  this  course  forming 
the  boundary  between  Stirlingshire  and  Perthshire.  At 
Stirling  the  river,  from  the  confluence  of  its  head-streams, 
has  made  a  direct  distance  of  about  18J  miles,  but  mea- 
sures 39  along  the  curves  and  meanderings  of  its  bed. 
It  flows  principally  through  low,  flat,  alluvial  grounds, 
but  is  overlooked  everywhere,  at  near  distances,  by 
picturesque  hills,  and  exhibits  great  wealth  of  scenery, 
embracing  the  softly  beautiful  as  well  as  the  brilliant 
and  the  grand.  Two  important  and  beautiful  tribu- 
taries, the  '  arrowy '  Teith  and  Allan  Water,  join  the 
Forth  3|  and  If  miles  above  Stirling.  From  Stirling 
to  Alloa  the  river  separates  Stirlingshire  from  Perth- 
shire and  Clackmannanshire  ;  and  while  the  direct  line 
measures  only  5§  miles,  the  windings  of  the  river, 
popularly  called  the  Links  of  Forth,  are  12|  mUes  long. 
The  stream  is  flanked  by  broad  carse  lands,  of  such 
value  that,  according  to  the  old  rhyme, 

*  A  crook  o*  the  Forth 
Is  worth  an  earldom  o'  the  north.' 

Below  AUoa  the  river  becomes  less  remarkable  for  its 
sinuosity  of  movement,  and,  losing  partly  its  fresh- 
water character,  begins  to  expand  slowly  into  a  fine 
estuary,  reaching  the  German  Ocean  at  a  distance  of 
51J  miles  from  Alloa.  The  Firtli  of  Forth,  as  it  is  now 
called,  divides  Clackmannanshire,  part  of  Perthshire, 
and  Fife  from  Stirlingshire,  Linlithgowshire,  Edin- 
burghshire, and  Haddingtonshire  ;  and  has  a  width  of 
J  mile  at  AUoa,  J  mile  at  Kincardine  ferry,  and  3  miles 
just  above  Borrowstounness.  At  Queensferry,  in  conse- 
quence of  a  peninsula  on  the  N  side,  the  basin  suddenly 
contracts  to  a  width  of  IJ  mile  ;  but  below  Queensferry 
it  again  expands  to  5J  mUes  at  Granton  and  Burntisland 
ferry,  and  between  Prestonpans  and  Leven  to  a  maxi- 
mum width  of  17  miles.  The  Firth  again  contracts, 
between  Dirleton  and  Elie  Ness,  to  8J  miles  ;  and  enters 
the  ocean,  between  Fife  Ness  and  the  mouth  of  the 
river  Tyne,  vrith  a  width  of  17^  miles.  The  islands, 
with  the  exception  of  Inchgarvie  and  two  or  three  other 
rocky  islets  in  the  vicinity  of  Queensferry,  are  in  the 
wider  parts  of  the  Firth,  comprising  Inchcolm,  Cra- 
MOND  island,  and  Ixchkeith.  The  last,  measuring 
5  by  IJ  furlongs,  is  crowned  with  a  lighthouse,  and  in 
1881  was  rendered  defensible  by  the  erection  of  three 
batteries  with  heavy  guns.  Half  a  dozen  small  islands 
(FiDRA,  Ceaigleith,  etc. )  lie  ofi' the  Haddingtonshire 
coast ;  while  the  entrance  is  flanked  by  the  romantic 
Bass  Rock  on  the  S  and  the  Isle  of  May  on  the  N. 
The  estuarj'  in  mid  channel  has  a  maximum  depth  of 
37  fathoms ;  opposite  Queensferry  the  soundings  are 
in  9  fathoms ;  on  the  expanse  known  as  Leith  Koads, 
they  vary  from  3  to  16  fathoms  ;  opposite  EHe  Ness 
they  reach  28  fathoms  ;  and,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Isle 
of  May,  run  from  14  to  15  fathoms.  The  tides  are  so 
affected  by  conflicting  currents,  by  islands  and  shallows, 
and  by  the  irregularities  of  the  shores,  as  to  vary  much 
both  in  respect  of  velocity  and  time.  The  flowing  tide, 
over  the  sands  of  Leith,  runs  IJ  knot  an  hour,  and 
appears  to  flow  for  only  four  hours,  while  the  ebbing 
tide  continues  for  eight  hours.  The  tides  on  the  N 
shore,  opposite  these  Roads,  run  from  3  to  3J  knots  aa 
hour,  and  have  an  equal  duration  in  flow  and  in  ebb. 
The  flowing  tide,  from  Kinghorn  Ness  to  the  promontory 


ORDNANCE    GAZETTEER    MA 


JOHN    BARTHOLOMEW    EDINBURGH 


AX0H4/ 


-'^■H   i^ 


FORTH 

W  of  Aberdour,  runs  at  the  rate  of  SJ  knots  an  hour  ; 
through  the  contraction  at  Queensferry,  it  runs  at  the 
rate  of  5  knots  an  hour,  and,  6  miles  above  that  con- 
traction, at  from  2  to  2J  miles  an  hour.  The  ebb 
tide,  at  about  6  miles  above  Queensferry,  runs  at  the 
same  rate  as  the  flow  tide  ;  but,  through  the  contraction 
at  Queensferry,  it  runs  at  the  rate  of  6  knots  an  hour ; 
and,  in  Inverkeithing  Bay,  immediately  E  of  that  con- 
traction, turns  for  two  hours  to  the  "W  at  the  rate  of  IJ 
knot  an  hour.  The  estuary  presents  safe  roadsteads  at 
Elie  Roads,  Leith  Roads,  Burntisland  Roads,  Inver- 
keithing Bay,  St  Margaret's  Hope  immediately  above 
Queensferry,  and  various  other  localities.  It  has  good 
docks  at  Leith,  Granton,  Borrowstounness,  Grangemouth, 
and  Burntisland  ;  good  harbours  at  Dunbar,  Anstruther, 
Cockenzie,  and  Fisherrow ;  and  numerous  harbours  of 
varying  character  and  capacity  along  the  N  shore  from 
Crail  to  Alloa.  The  navigation  was  long  regarded  as 
dangerous ;  but,  though  shoally  in  various  localities, 
and  somewhat  obstructed  by  sandbanks,  it  is  now,  with 
the  aid  of  lighthouses  on  the  islands  of  May  and  Inch- 
keith  and  of  accurately  drawn  and  minute  charts,  so 
signally  safe  as  rarely  to  be  marked  with  a  ship'wreck. 
Seven  vessels,  however,  were  stranded  on  the  Carr 
reef,  off  Fife  Ness,  during  1870-81  ;  and  the  gale  of 
14  Oct.  1881  did  dreadful  havoc  to  the  fishing  boats 
of  Newhaven  and  Fishereow.  Numerous  industrial 
works  are  on  the  shores,  from  Alloa  and  Borrowstoun- 
ness downward  ;  vast  repositories  of  coal,  limestone,  and 
ironstone  are  so  near  it,  on  both  shores  and  westward 
from  its  head,  as  to  send  down  much  of  their  output  to 
it  for  shipment ;  and  all  these,  along  with  the  extensive 
and  productive  fisheries  of  Leitii  and  ANSTRtrTHER  dis- 
tricts, attrast  large  numbers  of  vessels  of  all  sizes. 

The  basin  of  the  Forth  is  estimated  at  645  square 
miles.  The  length  of  the  river  and  its  estuary,  mea- 
sured in  a  direct  line  from  the  Ducliray's  source  on  Ben 
Lomond  to  the  entrance,  is  only  SO  miles  ;  but,  follow- 
ing the  bends  of  river  and  estuary,  is  116.^  miles,  viz., 
52J  to  Stirling,  12g  thence  to  Alloa,  and  51|  thence  to 
the  German  Ocean.  The  chief  tributaries  above  Alloa 
are,  on  the  right  bank,  Kelty  Water,  Boquhan  Burn, 
and  Bannock  Burn  ;  on  the  left  bank.  Goodie  Water,  the 
Teith,  Allan  Water,  and  the  Devon;  and  the  chief 
streams  flowing  into  the  estuary  are,  on  the  right  side,  the 
Carron,  the  Avon,  the  Almond,  the  Water  of  Leith,  and 
the  Esk ;  on  the  left  side,  the  Leven.  The  river  contains 
salmon,  grilse,  sea-trout,  trout,  pike,  perch,  and  eels ;  and 
its  salmon  are  large  and  delicate.  Several  good  salmon 
casts  for  the  angler  occur  about  the  influx  of  the  Teith  ; 
but  all  the  salmon  fisheries  below  that  point  are  held 
strictly  as  private  property,  and  are  let  under  stringent 
conditions.  The  estuary  abounds  with  white  fish  of  all 
kinds  ;  and  large  fleets  of  fishing-boats  from  Newhaven, 
Fisherrow,  Buckhaven,  Anstruther,  and  other  places 
procure  abundant  supplies  for  the  daily  markets  of 
neighbouring  and  distant  towns.  Of  late  years  the  use 
of  steam  trawlers  has  been  introduced,  and,  while  the 
catch  is  thus  increased,  the  older  style  of  fishers  allege 
that  the  spawn  and  spawning  beds  are  injured  by  the 
trawl  nets.  Herrings  generally  shoal  into  the  Firth 
once  a  year,  and  have  in  some  years  yielded  a  prodi- 
gious produce  ;  but  they  are  esteemed  in  some  respects 
inferior  in  quality  to  the  herrings  of  the  western  coast. 
The  extensive  sand  beds,  together  with  immense  quan- 
tities of  seaweed,  are  favourable  to  the  deposit  of  the 
spawn  of  fishes;  and  mussels,  contributing  so  largely 
to  the  support  of  the  finny  tribes,  are  very  abundant. 
Oysters  formerly  lay  in  beds  adjacent  to  Cramond  and 
Inch  Mickery,  as  well  as  near  Prestonpans  ;  but  they 
were  over-fished,  almost  to  comparative  exhaustion  ;  and 
they  are  now  inferior,  both  in  quality  and  in  size,  to  the 
oysters  obtained  in  many  other  parts  of  the  British  coasts. 

An  ancient  ferry  crosses  the  river  at  Queensferry,  and 
connects  on  the  S  side  with  a  branch  from  the  Edin- 
burgh and  Glasgow  section  of  the  North  British  railway 
at  Ratho  station,  and  with  a  line  to  Dunfermline  on  the 
N.  A  still  more  important  ferry  is  that  from  Granton 
to  Burntisland,  which,  in  the  meantime,  forms  the  link 


FORTH 

between  the  southern  and  the  northern  portions  of  the 
North  British  railway  system.  Both  of  the  ferries  named 
are  now  in  the  hands  of  the  North  British  Railway 
Company,  and  are  maintained  under  certain  statutory 
obligations  as  to  the  fare  to  be  charged,  aud  the  mini- 
mum number  of  passages  to  be  made  daily.  In  former 
times  the  Queensferry  was  on  the  line  of  the  Great 
North  Road,  the  mails  crossing  here  en  route  for  Kin- 
ross, Perth,  aud  the  North.  The  ferry  between  Leith 
or  Newhaven  and  Kirkcaldy  or  Pettycur  has  long 
since  been  abandoned,  as  has  also  the  'Earl's  Ferry,'  from 
a  place  in  Fife  still  bearing  that  name  to  the  nearest 
point  in  East  Lothian.  Many  projects  have  been  made 
to  bridge  the  Forth  or  to  tunnel  it,  the  latter  proposal 
being  described  in  several  pamphlets  published  early 
in  the  present  century.  Although  there  are,  with  the 
railway  bridges,  several  structures  now  spanning  the 
Forth  there,  the  bridge  of  Stirling  was  at  one  time  an 
important  because  almost  solitary  access  to  the  North. 
A  bridge  is  known  to  have  existed  here  six  centuries 
ago,  and  some  remains  of  it,  about  J  mile  above  the 
existing  'old  bridge,' are  still,  it  is  said,  to  be  seen. 
Below  Stirling,  a  bridge  has  been  erected  (1882-83)  by 
the  Alloa  Railway  Company,  to  connect  with  the  South 
Alloa  Branch  of  the  Caledonian  railway.  The  main 
feature  of  this  bridge  is  a  swing-opening  by  which  the 
river,  at  high  water,  remains  navigable  by  steamers 
and  small  vessels  to  Stirling  as  heretofore.  Several 
plans  have  been  drawn  up  for  improving  the  crossing  at 
Queensferry  and  below.  In  1851  Sir  Thomas  Bouch 
perfected  the  '  floating  railway '  between  Granton  and 
Burntisland,  a  plan  in  which  by  the  use  of  adjustible 
loading  apparatus,  and  of  large  flat  steamers,  the  rail- 
way company  was  enabled  to  carry  goods  trains  over  the 
ferry  without  breaking  bulk.  This  system  has  remained 
in  constant  operation  for  upwards  of  thirty  years.  In 
1861  a  railway  from  Edinburgh  to  Perth  was  projected 
by  Bouch,  the  proposal  being  at  that  time  to  carry  the 
trains  over  by  '  floating  railways '  similar  to  those  used 
at  Burntisland.  Three  years  later  the  first  design  for 
a  bridge  over  the  Forth  was  proposed  by  him.  The 
bridge  was  to  be  3  miles  long,  crossing  the  shallower 
part  of  the  river  a  mile  above  Charleston,  with  a  height 
of  125  feet  above  the  river,  and  5  spans  of  500  feet  each 
in  the  fairway.  In  1873,  after  the  Tay  Bridge  had  been 
begun,  the  bolder  design  of  crossing  at  Queensferry, 
using  the  island  of  Inchgarvie  as  the  central  support  for 
2  spans  of  1600  feet  each,  was  put  forward  by  Sir 
Thomas  Bouch.  This  scheme  was  eagerly  taken  up, 
despite  the  fact  that  it  was  to  be  partly  on  the  suspen- 
sion principle,  and  required  piers  of  600  feet  high  to 
bear  the  chains.  It  was  reported  on,  in  its  scientific 
aspects,  by  Hawkshaw,  Barlow,  Bidder,  and  other  en- 
gineers, and,  as  regards  wind  pressure,  by  Dr  Pole  and 
Sir  George  Airey,  the  astronomer  royal.  But  the  fall  of 
the  Tay  Bridge  disparaged  the  project,  and  it  was  aban- 
doned. In  1882,  however,  under  an  absolute  guarantee 
for  the  interest  on  the  capital  by  the  North  British, 
Midland,  Great  Northern,  and  North  Eastern  railways, 
the  Forth  Bridge  proposal  at  Queensferry  has  been  re- 
newed, and  statutory  powers  for  its  erection  have  been 
obtained. 

The  Firth  of  Forth  has  played  a  not  unimportant 
part  in  the  troublous  history  of  Scotland,  having  been 
visited  by  hostile  fleets  at  various  times  from  83  a.d. 
downwards.  In  1549,  the  island  of  Inchkcith  was  seized 
and  fortified  by  the  English  under  the  Duke  of  Somer- 
set, from  whom  it  was  taken  by  the  French  commander, 
then  in  alliance  with  the  Scots.  In  1567,  an  act  was 
passed  for  the  demolition  of  the  fort  on  Inchkeith,  and 
though  this  was  not  fully  carried  out  (since  Johnson  and 
Boswell  found  the  fort  in  fair  preservation  in  1773),  the 
Firth  for  three  centuries  remained  defenceless.  At 
the  entrance  to  Leith  harbour  a  Martello  tower  was 
erected,  and  there  is,  nominally,  a  fort  in  that  town, 
but  the  former  is  disused,  and  both  are  inadequate  for 
defence  against  modern  ordnance.  After  many  years' 
agitation,  steps  were  in  1880-81  taken  for  the  construc- 
tion of  three  batteries  on  Inchkeith,  and  one  on  King- 

61 


FORTH  AND  CLYDE  CANAL 

horn  Ness,  which,  mounted  with  heavy  guns,  completely 
command  the  channels  N  and  S  of  the  island. — OrcL. 
Sur.,  shs.  38,  39,  31,  32,  40,  33,  41,  1857-71.  See 
David  M.  Home's  Estuary  of  the.  Forth  ai\d  adjoining 
Districts  viewed  geologically  (Edinb.  1871),  and  works 
cited  under  Fife  and  Stiklingshire. 

Forth  and  Clyde  Canal  or  Great  Canal,  The,  con- 
structed to  connect  the  Firths  of  Forth  and  Clyde,  was 
opened  for  traffic  in  1790.  The  possibility  of  making  a 
short  cut  through  this  neck  of  Scotland  was  discussed  as 
early  as  the  reign  of  Charles  II.,  and  the  plan  was 
revived  without  success  in  1723  and  1761, — the  survey 
in  the  former  year  being  made  by  Mr  Gordon,  author  of 
the  Itinerarium  Septentrionale,  and  in  the  latter,  at  Lord 
Napier's  expense,  by  Mr  Robert  Mackell.  The  latter 
survey  was  approved  by  the  Board  of  Manufactures  of 
Scotland,  who,  in  1763,  employed  Mr  Smeaton  to  make 
a  survey  of  the  proposed  route.  This  engineer  put 
down  the  expense  as  £80,000,  which  was  thought  too 
great  to  justify  further  proceedings.  In  1766  some 
Glasgow  merchants  began  a  subscription  of  £30,000  for 
a  canal  4  feet  deep  and  24  broad,  but  parliament  refused 
to  sanction  the  scheme,  owing  to  the  smallness  of  the  sum, 
which  had  been  fully  subscribed  in  two  days  after  the 
proposal.  Another  combination  was  made,  and  a  new  sub- 
scrijrtion  for  £150,000  set  on  foot.  In  1767  parliament 
gave  the  required  permission  for  the  incorporation  of 
'  The  Company  of  Proprietors  of  the  Forth  and  Clyde 
Navigation,'  the  stock  to  consist  of  1500  shares  of  £100 
each,  with  liberty  to  borrow  £50, 000.  Work  was  begun 
in  l768  under  the  superintendence  of  Mr  Smeaton,  the 
first  sod  being  cut  by  Sir  Lawrence  Dundas  on  10  July. 
In  July  1775  the  canal  was  completed  up  to  Stocking- 
field,  at  which  point  a  branch  to  Glasgow  was  con- 
structed and  was  carried  to  Hamilton  Hill  near  that 
cit}',  where  a  basin  and  storehouses  were  made.  By 
this  time  all  the  capital  and  the  loan  had  been  spent, 
as  well  as  the  income  from  other  sources.  The  revenue 
from  the  part  then  opened  was  only  £4000,  and  the  pros- 
pects were  gloomy  all  round,  the  shares  falling  to  half 
their  original  price.  In  1784  assistance  was  given  by 
the  Government,  who  handed  £50,000  of  the  revenue 
from  the  forfeited  estates  of  the  Jacobites  to  the  corpora- 
tion. This  was  not  a  gift,  for  the  Government  stipu- 
lated that  the  Crown  should  draw  the  ordinary  dividend 
for  that  sum.  In  July  1786  the  cutting  of  the  canal 
was  resumed  under  the  superintendence  of  Mr  Robert 
"Whitworth,  and,  by  July  1790,  it  was  opened  from  sea 
to  sea.  At  the  opening  ceremony  the  chairman,  accom- 
panied by  the  magistrates  of  Glasgow,  poured  a  barrel 
of  Forth  water  into  the  Clyde, — this  interesting  cere- 
mony being  witnessed  by  a  large  concourse  of  people. 
The  first  vessel  to  pass  through  was  the  sloop  Agnes  of 
80  tons  burthen,  belonging  to  Port  Glasgow,  and  built 
at  Leith  for  the  herring  fishery  and  coasting  trade. 
This  took  place  on  31  Aug.  ;  and  on  9  Sept.  the  sloop 
Mary  M'Ewan  was  the  first  to  accomplish  the  journey 
the  other  way.  The  Hamilton  Hill  basin  was  found  too 
small,  and  the  large  depot  at  Port  Dundas  was 
constructed  to  answer  the  needs  of  Glasgow.  Here 
a  junction  was  afterwards  effected  with  the  Monk- 
land  Canal,  and  the  two  were  amalgamated  in  1846. 
The  branch  connecting  the  two  was  furnished  with 
substantial  quay  walls  for  the  accommodation  of  barges 
imloading ;  and  up  to  1850,  the  sum  expended  on  the 
Forth  and  Clyde  and  Monkland  Canals  was  £1,090,380. 
Although  the  canal  was  planned  to  be  only  7  feet 
deep,  its  depth  was  practically  10.  Its  length  was 
38|  miles  —  35  miles  direct  between  the  Forth  and 
Clyde,  2|  miles  of  the  branch  to  Port  Dundas,  and  a 
mile  of  the  continuation  to  the  Monkland  Canal.  The 
gi'eatest  height  of  the  canal  above  the  sea  is  156  feet, 
and  this  is  attained  by  means  of  twenty  locks  on  the 
eastern  and  nineteen  on  the  western  sides,  a  differ- 
ence due  to  the  different  water-level  of  the  two  rivers. 
The  locks  are  each  74  feet  long  and  20  broad,  with 
a  rise  of  8  feet.  They  admit  the  passage  of  vessels 
of  68  feet  keel,  19  feet  beam,  and  8^  feet  draught  of 
water.  The  average  breadth  of  the  canal  on  the  sur- 
52 


FORTH  AND  CLYDE  CANAL 

face  is  56  feet,  and  at  the  bottom  27  feet.  Above 
thirty  bridges  span  the  canal,  and  it  in  turn  crosses 
about  forty  aqueducts,  the  largest  of  which  is  that  over 
the  Kelvin  at  Maryhill,  consisting  of  four  arches  S3  feet 
high,  which  convey  the  waterway  across  a  dell  400  feet 
wide.  This  work  was  begun  in  June  1787,  and  com- 
pleted in  April  1791,  at  a  cost  of  £8500.  Water  for  the 
canal  is  supplied  from  eight  reservoirs,  covering  a  space 
of  721  acres. 

The  canal  begins,  at  the  E  end,  about  a  mile  up  the 
river  Carron  at  Grangemouth.  Hence  it  goes  south- 
westward  to  Grahamston  and  Bainsford,  where  a  basin 
was  made  for  the  Carron  Company's  traific.  It  then 
continues  in  the  same  direction  to  Camelon,  and  then 
trends  to  the  W  to  Lock  16,  where  it  is  joined  by 
the  Union  Canal  from  Edinburgh.  Thence  to  Wind- 
ford  Loch,  near  Castlecary  (where  it  attains  its  greatest 
elevation),  it  goes  in  a  westerly  and  south-westerly 
direction.  A  quarter  of  a  mile  further  on  it  leaves 
Stirlingshire,  though  for  many  miles  it  keeps  closely 
to  the  borders  of  that  county.  Passing  N  of  Kilsyth 
it  comes  to  Kirkintilloch,  and  J  mile  fm-ther  on  enters 
Lanarkshire.  In  4  miles  the  branch  to  Port  Dundas 
is  reached  (this  branch  being  on  the  summit  level 
throughout),  and  from  this  point  the  canal  proceeds 
northward  a  little.  As  it  approaches  the  Kelvin 
viaduct  the  locks  become  numerous,  and  the  scenery 
through  which  the  canal  passes  is  picturesque  and 
romantic.  At  this  point  it  re-enters  Dumbartonshire, 
and  thence  it  proceeds  about  5  miles  till  it  is  joined  by 
a  junction  canal,  extending  to  the  Clyde  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Cart,  formed  in  1839  for  the  benefit  of  Paisley. 
For  3|  miles  the  Forth  and  Clyde  navigation  follows  the 
course  of  the  Clyde  in  a  north-westerly  direction,  finally 
joining  the  river  at  Bowling  Bay,  where  a  harbour  and 
wharves  were  constructed  at  a  cost  of  £35,000.  For  a 
great  part  of  its  course  the  canal  follows  the  line  of 
'  Graham's  Dyke, '  or  Antoninus'  W.a.ll,  showing  how 
closely  the  Ptomans  attained  the  shortest  line  between 
the  two  great  estuaries.  The  completion  of  this  work 
was  no  small  event,  for  we  read  that,  as  there  was 
only  7  feet  of  water  at  the  Broomielaw,  while  the  canal 
was  8  feet  deep,  its  basin,  'immediately  on  its  being 
made  open  for  traffic,  became  a  more  important  port 
than  the  Broomielaw. '  The  whMigig  of  time  has  cer- 
tainly brought  in  its  revenges  in  this  case. 

Considerable  scientific  and  historical  interest  attaches 
to  the  Forth  and  Clyde  Canal  as  the  scene  of  early  ex- 
periments in  steam  navigation.  After  Mr  Patrick 
Jliller  and  Mr  Symington  had,  on  Dalswinton  Loch, 
proved  the  feasibility  of  using  steam  on  the  water,  they 
came  to  Edinburgh,  and  had  a  boat  of  30  tons  burthen 
constructed  at  Carron.  In  November  1789  this  vessel 
was  launched  on  the  Forth  and  Clyde  Canal.  In  presence 
of  hundreds  of  people  the  vessel  started,  and  attained  a 
speed  of  6  miles  an  hour.  On  reaching  Lock  16  un- 
happily the  fioats  of  the  paddlewheels  gave  way,  and  the 
experiment  had  to  be  stopped.  Ten  years  later  Lord 
Dundas  desu-ed  Symington  to  construct  a  steamer  to  be 
used  as  a  tug  on  the  canal,  and  in  March  1802  the  Char- 
lotte Dundas  towed  two  laden  barges  of  70  tons  burthen 
each  a  distance  of  19^  miles  with  great  ease.  This 
vessel  was  built  by  Mr  Hart,  of  Grangemouth,  and  its 
hull  lay  for  many  years  in  a  creek  between  Locks  8  and 
9  ;  her  timbers  were  afterwards  made  into  furnitm'e  or 
other  relics.  In  consequence  of  the  success  of  this  ex- 
periment, a  proposal  was  made  to  the  proprietors  to  use 
steam  tugs  instead  of  horse  power,  but  it  was  rejected 
on  the  ground  that  the  wash  from  the  paddles  would 
destroy  the  banks  of  the  canal.  Another  result  of 
Symington's  success  was  a  poem  by  a  Mr  Muir  of  Kirk- 
intilloch, which  gives  expression  to  the  common  won- 
derment at  the  phenomenon — 

'  When  first,  by  labour,  Forth  and  Clyde 
Were  taught  o'er  Scotia's  hills  to  ride 
In  a  canal  deep,  lan^j,  and  wide, 

Naebody  thought 
Sic  wonders,  without  win'  or  tide, 

Wad  e'er  be  wrought. 


FORTH  AND  CLYDE  RAILWAY 

*  But  lately  wc  hae  seen  a  lij^hter 
Wi'  in  her  tail  a  fanner's  fligliter, 
May  bid  boat-haulers  a'  gae  dight  her 

Black  sooty  vent ; 
Than  half  a  dozen  horse  she's  wigliter 

By  ten  per  cent. 

'  It  was  sae  odd  to  see  her  pullin', 
An'  win'  an'  water  baith  unwillin* ; 
Yet  deil  may  care,  she,  onward  swellia'. 

Defied  them  baith, 
As  constant  as  a  mill  that's  fuUin' 

Gude  English  claith. 

'  Can  e'er,  thought  I,  a  flame  o'  reek. 
Or  boilin'  water's  caudron  smeek, 
Tho'  it  was  keepit  for  a  week, 

Perform  sic  wunnerg, 
As  quite  surprise  amaist  the  feck, 

O'  gazin'  hunners?' 

In  September  1839  another  experiment  in  tlie  use  of 
steam  was  made  on  tlie  canal,  but  tliis  time  the  power 
•was  proposed  to  be  supplied  by  an  engine  running  along 
the  bank ;  and  a  light  railway  having  been  formed  along 
the  path  near  Lock  16,  a  locomotive  engine  of  moderate 
power  was  put  on  it.  On  11  Sept.  the  engine  was 
attached  successively  to  passenger  boats,  lightly  and 
heavily  laden  ;  to  sloops,  single  and  in  pairs  ;  and  to  a 
string  of  nine  miscellaneous  sailing  vessels.  The  pas- 
senger boats  were  drawn  at  a  rate  of  16  or  17  miles  an 
hour,  the  single  sloops  at  3i,  and  the  string  of  vessels  at 
2i.  Greater  velocities  could  have  been  attained,  but, 
though  the  wash  was  seen  to  have  little  effect  on  the 
banks,  the  rates  were  restricted  to  those  mentioned. 
All  the  experiments  were  satisfactory,  but  as  the  appli- 
cation of  the  system  to  the  whole  canal  would  have 
been  very  costly,  it  was  abandoned. 

All  that  remains  of  the  history  of  the  canal  may  be 
gathered  from  a  sketch  of  its  financial  fortunes.  In 
1841  it  was  stated  that  '  this  canal  has  been  most  lucra- 
tive to  the  proprietors.  In  1S20  their  capital  was 
£519,840,  and  the  income  in  1836  was  £63,743."  In 
1839  the  revenue  was  £95,475  ;  and  in  1850,  four  years 
after  their  amalgamation,  the  returns  from  the  Forth  and 
Clyde  and  Monkland  Canals  was  £115,621,  while  the 
total  sum  spent  on  the  two  from  the  beginning  was 
£1,090,380.  In  1867  the  joint-undertakings  were  taken 
over  by  the  Caledonian  Railway  Company,  when  they 
were  valued  at  £1,141,333.  The  terms  of  transfer  were 
that  the  railway  company  should  pay  an  annuity  of 
£71,333,  being  a  guaranteed  dividend  of  6|  per  cent, 
secured  by  a  lien  over  the  works  and  revenues.  In  1881 
for  convenience  the  stock  was  nominally  increased,  so 
as  to  amalgamate  it  with  other  guaranteed  stocks  at 
an  equal  rate  of  4  per  cent.  From  the  half-yearly 
balance-sheet  of  the  company,  published  in  Sept.  1882, 
it  appears  that  the  receipts  from  the  canal  were  £43,882, 
8s.  9|d. ,  while  the  expenditure  for  the  six  months  was 
£14,609,  5s.  OJd. 

Forth  and  Clyde  Railway.  See  Nokth  British 
Eailw.iy. 

Forthar,  a  place  with  extensive  lime-works  in  Kettle 
parish,  Fife,  2  miles  S  by  W  of  Kettle  village.  The 
limestone  at  it  contains  98  per  cent,  of  pure  lime  ;  and 
the  working  of  it  gives  permanent  employment  to  a 
great  number  of  men. 

Forthar  Castle,  Forfarshire.     See  Foeter. 

Forthill,  an  eminence  in  Monifieth  parish,  Forfarshire, 
^  mile  NW  of  Broughty  Castle.  A  fort,  erected  on 
it  in  1548  as  a  flanking  post  of  the  English  garrison  in 
Broughty  Castle,  was  dismantled  in  1550  ;  left  remains 
12  feet  high  till  1782  ;  and  is  now  completely  obliter- 
ated. A  camp  was  formed  on  the  same  eminence  fully 
J  mile  E  of  the  fort,  and  has  left  slight  traces  of  its 
entrenchments. 

Forthie  Water,  a  rivulet  of  Kincardineshire,  rising  in 
the  W  of  Dunnottar  parish,  and  winding  4 J  mOes 
south-westward,  chiefly  along  the  mutual  boundary  of 
Glenbervie  and  Arbuthnott,  till  it  falls  into  Bervie 
Water  1  mile  S  of  Drumlithie.  — Orrf.  Sur.,  shs.  67,  66, 
1871. 

Forth  Iron-works.    See  Caenock  and  Oakley. 


FORTINGALL 

Fortingall,  a  hamlet  and  a  large  highland  parish  of 
Athole  and  Breadalbane  districts,  NW  Perthshire.  The 
hamlet  stands,  400  feet  above  sea-level,  3  furlongs  N  of 
tho  left  bank  of  the  Lyon,  1§  mile  N  of  the  lower  waters 
of  Loch  Tay,  and  8  miles  W  by  S  of  Aberfeldy,  under 
which  it  has  a  post  office.  Here  is  a  good  hotel ;  and 
faus  are  held  here  on  9  Aug.  o.s.,  and  6  and  7  Dec. 

The  parish  contains  also  Kinlooh  Rannoch  village, 
18  miles  NNW  of  Fortingall  by  road,  but  only  8J  as 
the  crow  flies,  and  Innerwick  hamlet,  lOJ  miles  W  ; 
and  it  comprises  two  detached  portions.  The  main 
body  is  bounded  NE  by  Blair  Athole,  E  by  Dull,  S  by 
Kcnmore  and  detached  sections  of  Weem,  Kenmore, 
and  Killin,  W  by  Glenorchy  and  Lismore  in  Argyllshire, 
NW  and  N  by  Kilmonivaig  and  Laggan  in  Inverness- 
shire.  Its  utmost  length,  from  E  to  W,  is  20J  miles ; 
its  utmost  breadth,  from  N  to  S,  is  20J  miles ;  and 
its  area  is  185,551  acres.  The  Bolfraoks  or  eastern 
detached  portion,  lying  1  mile  W  by  S  of  Aberfeldy, 
and  measuring  4§  by  li  miles,  is  bounded  N  tor  13 
mile  by  the  "Tay,  and  on  all  other  sides  by  detached 
sections  of  Logierait,  Dull,  and  Weem.  The  larger 
south-western  detached  portion,  containing  Loch  Lyon, 
has  an  utmost  length  and  breadth  of  7J  and  6g  miles, 
and  is  bounded  E  and  SE  by  sections  of  Weem  and 
Kenmore,  on  all  other  sides  by  Glenorchy  parish  in 
Argyllshire.  The  area  of  the  whole  is  204,346J  acres, 
or  319  square  miles,  of  which  18,795J  acres  belong  to 
the  detached  portions,  and  7663J  are  water.  In  the 
south-western  detached  portion  the  river  Lyon  rises 
close  to  the  Argyllshire  border  at  2400  feet  above  sea- 
level,  and  runs  4  miles  northward  to  Loch  Lyon  (If  x  J 
mile  ;  1100  feet),  below  which  it  here  has  an  east-by- 
northerly  course  of  2J  miles  along  the  Kenmore  and 
Weem  border.  Through  Weem  it  continues  1  mile 
eastward,  and  then,  entering  the  main  body  of  Fortin- 
gall, winds  25J  miles  east-north-eastward  and  east-by- 
northward,  chiefly  through  the  southern  interior,  but 
at  three  points  tracing  the  southern  boundary,  till  at 
length,  where  the  Keltney  joins  it,  and  IJ  mile  above 
its  own  confluence  with  the  Tay,  it  passes  ofi'  to  Dull. 
Thus  Fortingall  claims  all  but  2^  miles  of  its  entire 
course  (36  miles),  during  which  its  chief  affluent  is 
Keltney  Burn,  rising  at  2700  feet  upon  Carn  Mairg, 
and  hurrying  5|  miles  east-by-northward  through  the  in- 
terior, then  3i  south-south-eastward  along  the  boundary 
with  Dull.  Loch  Laidon  or  Lydoch  (5i  miles  x  i  mile ; 
924  feet),  on  desolate  Rannoch  Muii-,  belongs  partly  to 
Glenorchy,  but  mainly  to  Fortingall ;  from  it  the  Gauir. 
winds  7  miles  eastward  to  the  head  of  Loch  Rannoch 
(9§  mUes  x  5i  to  9  furl.  ;  668  feet).  The  river  TuMMEL, 
issuing  from  the  foot  of  Loch  Rannoch,  has  here  an 
eastward  course  of  6J  miles,  3§  thereof  marking  the 
southern  boundary  of  the  Lochgarry  section  of  Logie- 
rait ;  and  to  Loch  Rannoch,  towards  its  head,  the 
Ericht  runs  5|  miles  south-south-eastward  out  of  Loch 
Ericht  (1153  feet),  whose  lower  7  miles  are  partly  in 
Laggan  but  chiefly  in  Fortingall.  Such,  broadly,  are 
the  drainage  features  of  this  parish,  which,  lying  all 
within  the  basin  of  the  Tay,  at  the  very  heart  of  the 
Grampians,  offers  rich  variety  of  highland  landscape — 
soft  valley  and  rugged  glen,  jagged  ridge  and  soaring 
summit,  with,  westwards,  mile  on  mile  of  moorland 
plateau.  Along  the  Tummel  the  surface  sinks  to  600, 
along  the  Lyon  to  350,  feet  above  sea-level ;  and  from 
E  to  W,  the  principal  heights  to  the  N  of  the  Tummel, 
Loch  Rannoch,  the  Gauir,  and  Loch  Laidon,  are  Ben 
Mholach  (2758  feet),  Stob  an  Aonaich  Mhoir  (2805), 
*Ben  Chumhann  (2692),  Ben  Phaelagain  (2836), 
*Sgur  Gaibhre  (3128),  *Carn  Dearg  (3084),  and  *Cruach 
(2420) ;  between  Loch  Rannoch  and  the  Lyon,  MeaU 
Crumach  (2217),  conical  Schiehallion  (3547),  Caen 
Mairg  (3419),  *Carn  Gorra  (3370),  Ben  Meggernie 
(2158),  *Garbh  Mheall  (3000),  and  *Stuchd  an  Lochain 
(3144)  ;  to  the  S  of  the  Lyon,  *Meall  Luaidhe  (2558), 
*Ben  nan  Oighreag  (2978),  and  *Meall  Ghaordie  (3407), 
where  asterisks  mark  those  summits  that  culminate 
right  on  the  confines  of  the  parish.  In  the  south- 
western detached  portion,  around  Loch  Lyon,  rise  Meall 

63 


FORTROSE 

Daill  (2858),  *Ben  Ckeachan  (3540),  *Ben  Ach- 
ALLADER  (3399),  Ben  Vankooh  (3125),  *Ben-a- 
CiiAiSTElL  (2897),  *Creag  Mhor  (3305),  and  *Ben 
Heasgarnicli  (3530)  ;  in  the  eastern  or  Bolfracks  sec- 
tion, *Craig  Hill  (845),  Meall  Mor  (1626),  and  Meall 
Dun  Dhomlmuill  (2061).  The  Moor  of  Bannocli  lies, 
in  large  measure,  upon  granite  ;  elsewhere  the  rocks  are 
principally  quartzose,  of  Silurian  age.  Clay  slate,  of 
tissUe  character,  appears  in  a  hill  above  Fortingall 
hamlet  and  on  the  eastern  side  of  Scliiehallion.  Good 
limestone  is  plentiful  in  the  E ;  and  several  veins  of 
]narble,  of  varied  hues  occur  in  different  parts.  Rock 
crystals,  spars,  and  pebbles  of  great  variety  and 
brilliancy  are  often  found  among  the  mountains ;  and 
a  vein  of  lead  ore  in  Gleulyon,  seemingly  of  consider- 
able richness,  was  worked  for  some  time  about  the 
beginning  of  last  century.  The  soil  of  the  level  strips 
along  the  vales  is  generally  gravelly  and  dry ;  on  the 
skirts  and  lower  slopes  of  the  hUls,  though  cold,  yields 
good  enough  pastm-age  ;  and  on  the  higher  acclivities  is 
for  the  most  part  bleak  and  barren  moor.  Very  little 
of  the  land  is  arable,  an  enormous  proportion  being 
either  sheep-walk,  grouse-moor,  or  deer-forest.  Still, 
gi'eat  improvements  have  been  made  within  this  century 
in  the  reclamation  and  enclosing  of  land,  and  in  farm- 
buildings.  Chief  antiquities  are  an  ancient  Caledonian 
stone  circle,  near  the  parish  church  ;  a  Roman  camp 
between  the  hamlet  and  the  Lyon,  by  Skene  regarded 
as  an  outpost  of  the  Emperor  Severus  beyond  the  Tay 
(208  A.D.);  traces  of  fourteen  wide  circular  forts  ;  and 
the  striking  ruin  of  Garth  Castle.  This  is  separately 
noticed,  as  also  are  the  chief  mansions — Glenlyon  House, 
Garth  House,  and  Chesthill,  near  Fortingall  hamlet ; 
Meggernie  Castle,  above  lunerwick  ;  Rannoch  Lodge, 
Finuart  Lodge,  and  Croiscrag,  at  or  towards  the 
head  of  Loch  Rannoch ;  Dalchosnie,  Dun  Alastair, 
and  Innerhadden,  near  Kinloch  Rannoch ;  and  Bol- 
fracks, in  the  eastern  detached  portion.  Thirteen  pro- 
prietors hold  each  an  annual  value  of  more,  and  two  of 
less,  than  £500.  In  the  presbytery  of  Weem  and  synod 
of  Perth  and  Stirling,  this  parish  is  ecclesiastically 
divided  into  Fortingall  proper,  Innerwick  or  Glenlyon, 
and  Kinloch  Rannoch — the  first  a  living  worth  £207. 
Its  church,  at  Fortingall  hamlet,  is  a  venerable  building, 
containing  376  sittings  ;  and  in  the  churchyard,  pro- 
tected by  iron  rails,  is  the  shattered  torso  of  the  famous 
yew-tree,  supposed  to  be  fully  3000  years  old — '  probably 
the  oldest  authentic  specimen  of  vegetation  in  Europe.' 
In  Pennant's  day  (1772)  it  measured  no  less  than  56  feet 
in  girth,  but  now  there  are  only  two  fragments  of  the 
shell.  These  still  put  forth  branches  and  leaves,  and 
outside  the  enclosure  is  a  vigorous  scion,  36  feet  high, 
and  fully  150  years  old.  A  Free  church  stands  on  the 
same  bank  of  the  Lyon,  ^  mile  E  of  the  hamlet ;  and  a 
new  public  school,  vfith  accommodation  for  100  children, 
had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  57,  and  a  grant  of 
£67.  Other  churches  and  schools  are  noticed  under 
Glenlyon  and  Kinloch  Rannoch.  Valuation  (1866) 
£17,651,  14s.  Id.,  (1882)  £21,263,  14s.  2d.  Pop.  of 
civil  parish  (1801)  3875,  (1831)  3067,  (1861)  2181,  (1871) 
1766,  (1881)  1690,  of  whom  1398  were  Gaelic-speaking  ; 
of  ecclesiastical  parish  (1871)  700,  (1881)  616  ;  of  regis- 
tration district  (1881)  56S.—Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  55,  54,  46, 
47,  1869-73. 

Fortrose,  a  royal  and  parliamentary  burgh  in  the 
parish  of  Rosemarkie,  Ross-shire,  is  situated  on  the 
!NW  side  of  the  inner  Moray  Firth,  at  the  north-eastern 
extremity  of  the  Black  Isle  Road,  nearly  opposite  Fort 
George,  8J  miles  S  by  E  of  Invergorden  Ferry,  9  SSW 
of  Cromarty,  and  lOJ  NNE  of  Inverness.  It  consists 
of  two  towns,  Chanoney  and  Rosejiarkie,  J  mile  dis- 
tant from  each  other,  and  first  politically  united  under 
James  II.  in  1455,  when  they  were  constituted  a  free 
burgh  in  favour  of  the  Bishop  of  Ross.  The  burgh 
lapsed  to  the  Crown  after  the  Reformation,  but  in  1590 
Chauonry  was  enfranchised ;  and  in  1592  the  towns  were 
re-united  under  the  title  of  the  royal  bm-gh  of  Fortress, 
afterwards  softened  into  the  present  name  Fortrose. 
Chanonry  Point,  a  long  tongue  of  land,  covered  with 
54 


FORTROSE 

fine  links,  and  edged  with  sandy  beach,  which  stretches 
into  the  sea  between  the  towns,  has  suggested  an  ety- 
mology for  the  name,  meaning  '  fort  of  the  peninsula ; ' 
other  authorities  e.^cplain  it  as  'strong  fort.'  A  light- 
house of  the  second  class  was  built  in  18  46  at  the  extremity 
of  this  point,  whence  also  there  is  a  ferry  (1  mUe  broad)  to 
Fort  George  and  the  Inverness  coast.  Fortrose  (or  at 
least  one  of  its  component  parts)  early  appears  in  history 
as  an  ecclesiastical  seat.  Lugadius  or  Moluog,  an  abbot 
and  bishop  of  Lismore,  who  died  in  577,  founded  a  Colum- 
ban  monastery  in  Rosemarkie.  About  the  8th  century, 
Albanus  Kiritinus,  surnamed  Bonifacius,  who  seems  to 
have  been  a  bishop  of  the  Irish-Roman  Chm-ch,  named 
Curitan,  came  to  Scotland ;  and,  in  716,  says  Wynton, 

*  In  Eos  he  fowndyd  Rosmarkyne,' 

dedicating  his  church  to  St  Peter.  When  David  I.  came 
to  the  throne  in  1124  he  founded  the  bishopric  of  Ross, 
and  placed  the  diocesan  seat  at  Rosmarkyn  or  Rosemarkie. 
The  presence  of  an  educated  clergy  raised  the  place  to  a 
high  degree  of  culture ;  and  famous  schools  of  divinity 
and  law  flourished  under  the  shadow  of  the  cathedral. 
Down  so  late  even  as  the  time  of  Cromwell  the  little 
town  enjoyed  a  considerable  amount  of  general  prosperity. 
Now,  however,  Forti'ose  has  no  trade  ;  and  its  connection 
with  the  outer  world  is  chiefly  maintained  through  the 
summer  visitors,  who  are  annually  attracted  by  the 
beautiful  situation  of  the  town,  its  picturesque  neigh- 
bourhood, its  fine  links,  and  its  facilities  for  sea-bathing. 
New  houses  have  recently  begun  to  spring  up  for  the 
better  accommodation  of  these  visitors.  Fortrose  is  regu- 
larly buUt,  well-lighted  with  gas,  and  abundantly 
supplied  with  water.  Its  most  interesting  edifice  is 
the  ruined  cathedral  dedicated  to  SS.  Peter  and  Boni- 
facius, situated  within  a  wide,  grassy  enclosure  in  the 
centre  of  the  town.  The  sole  remains  now  are  the  S 
aisle  of  the  chancel  and  nave,  and  a  detached  chapter- 
house ;  and  an  old  bell  is  also  preserved,  dated  1460. 
When  perfect  the  cathedral  was  a  handsome  red  sand- 
stone building,  presenting  a  beautiful  specimen  of  the 
pure  Early  Decorated  style,  and  dating  from  about  the 
beginning  of  the  14th  century.  Its  total  length  was 
120  feet ;  and  it  comprised  a  nave  of  4  bays,  with  aisles 
14  feet  wide,  and  rormd-headed  windows  ;  a  choir,  with 
aisles,  Lady-chapel,  west-tower,  quasi-transept,  rood 
turret,  and,  to  the  NE,  a  vaulted  chapter-house  over  a 
crypt.  The  greater  part  of  the  cathedi-al  and  the  whole 
of  the  former  bishop's  residence  were  removed  by  Oliver 
Cromwell  to  provide  building  material  for  his  fort  at 
Inverness.  Within  the  precincts  of  the  cathedral  stood 
the  various  residences  of  the  high  officials  of  the  chapter, 
the  archdeacon's  house,  the  rectory  of  Kirkmichael,  and 
the  manses  of  the  parochial  charges  of  CulUcndden, 
Lemlair,  Rosskeen,  Alness,  Kiltearn,  Contin,  Kilmuir, 
West  Kilmuir,  Kincardine,  Logic,  ObstUl,  and  St 
Katherine's ;  but  of  these  no  vestiges  remain.  In 
Jan.  1880,  a  hoard  of  1100  silver  coins  of  Robert  III. 
was  discovered,  buried  in  the  cathedral  green,  halfway 
between  the  sites  of  Kiltearn  manse  and  of  the  ancient 
tumulus  (now  levelled)  known  as  the  'Holeridge.'  A 
large  new  Volunteer  hall,  capable  of  seating  400  persons, 
was  erected  in  the  town  in  1881.  Fortrose  is  the  seat  of 
the  presbytery  of  Chanonry.  It  contains  two  Established 
churches.  Rosemarkie  parish  church  (1821 ;  800  sit- 
tings) is  said  to  occupy  the  site  of  an  ancient  church 
buUt  by,  and  dedicated  to,  St  Bonifacius ;  Fortrose  church 
from  a  chapel  of  ease  was  raised  to  quoad  sacra  status  in 
1873.  The  Free  church  is  a  tasteless  edifice  in  the 
Pointed  style.  The  Episcopalian  church  of  St  Andrew 
was  buUt  in  1828  at  a  cost  of  about  £1100,  and  is  seated 
for  190.  It  is  Gothic  in  style,  and  looks  well  from  the 
sea.  There  is  also  a  Baptist  chapel  (1806)  in  the  town. 
The  historian.  Sir  James  Mackintosh  (1765-1832),  who 
was  born  at  Aldourie,  was  educated  at  Fortrose  from 
1775  to  1780.  The  present  academy,  which  offers  a 
very  good  secondary  education,  was  founded  in  1791. 
Its  management  is  vested  in  subscribers  of  50  guineas, 
whose  rights  are  hereditary,  and  who  are  each  entitled 
to  present  a  bursar  or  free-scholar  ;  in  subscribers  of  20 


FOSS 

guineas,  whose  rights  are  for  life ;  in  the  clerical  members 
of  Chanonry  presbytery ;  and  in  the  provost  of  Fortrose. 
In  1882  it  had  62  scholars,  with  a  teaching-staff  of  2. 
Eosemarkie  Public  school,  under  the  school-board,  con- 
sisting of  a  chairman  and  4  members,  had  in  1882  a 
teaching-staff  of  2,  and  81  scholars.  There  is  also  an 
infant  school  for  girls.  The  Mechanics'  Institute  pos- 
sesses an  excellent  library  and  a  reading-room.  The 
town  contains  an  office  of  the  Caledonian  bank  and 
agencies  of  7  insurance  companies.  There  are  3  chief 
hotels.  The  Black  Isle  Steam  Shipping  Company's 
steamer  runs  between  Inverness  and  Fortrose  twice  a 
day  on  Mondays,  AYeduesdays,  and  Thursdays,  and  once 
on  Tuesdays,  Fridays,  and  Saturdays,  during  summer, 
and  once  a  day  in  winter ;  whilst  other  steamers  afford 
communication  with  Inverness  2  or  3  times  a  week.  A 
mail-gig  also  runs  daily  to  Inverness.  The  nearest 
station  is  Fort  George  on  the  Highland  railway,  6  miles 
to  the  ESE  ;  but  to  reach  it,  the  Fort  George  or  Arder- 
sier  Ferry  has  to  be  crossed.  The  harbour  of  Fortrose 
is  safe  and  convenient,  and  was  thoroughly  repaired 
in  1881  ;  and  at  the  same  date  a  new  wooden  pier, 
about  240  yards  long,  was  erected.  Steamers  can  enter 
the  old  harbour  only  at  certain  states  of  the  tide;  but  they 
can  now  touch  at  this  pier  at  any  time.  'There  are 
markets  at  Fortrose  for  cattle,  grain,  and  farm  produce 
every  month,  on  the  Monday  preceding  the  Muir  of  Ord 
market,  except  in  April  and  Jime,  when  the  dates  are 
respectively  the  first  and  the  third  Wednesdays  of  the 
month.  Hiring  markets  are  combined  with  the  above 
in  April,  August,  and  November. 

The  burgh  has  an  independent  revenue,  besides  enjoy- 
ing the  benefit  of  various  charitable  mortifications,  so 


Seal  of  Fortrose. 

that  the  rate  of  taxation  is  low.  The  burgh  has  adopted 
the  Lindsay  Police  Act,  under  which  the  council,  consist- 
ing of  provost,  3  bailies,  dean  of  guild,  treasurer,  and  9 
councillors  are  commissioners.  The  same  body  are  also 
commissioners  for  the  harbour,  under  a  provisional  order 
for  its  management.  The  sheriff-substitute  of  Dingwall 
holds  quarterly  circuit  small-debt  courts  at  Fortrose; 
and  a  justice  of  peace  court  is  held  on  the  first  Wednesday 
of  each  month.  With  Inverness,  Forres,  and  Nairn, 
Fortrose  returns  a  member  to  parliament,  its  parlia- 
mentary and  municipal  constituency  numbering  141  in 
1882,  when  the  annual  value  of  real  property  within 
the  burgh  amounted  to  £3418,  its  corporation  revenue 
being  £293.  Pop.  (1821)  932,  (1841)  1082,  (1851)  1148, 
(1861)  928,  (1871)  911,  (1881)  869  ;  of  royal  burgh  be- 
yond the  parliamentary  limits  (1881)  117;  of  Fortrose 
quoad  sacra  parish  (1881)  i92.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  84,  1876. 
See  the  Rev.  J.  M.  Neale's  Ecclesiological  Notes  on  Ross 
(Lend.  1848),  and  A.  E.  Scott's  Illustrations  of  Fortrose 
Cathedral  (Edinb.  Architect.  Assoc,  1873). 

Foss,  a  hamlet  and  a  qiwad  sacra  parish  in  Dull 
parish,  Perthshire.  The  hamlet  stands  near  the  right 
liank  of  the  river  Tummel,  1 J  mile  WSW  of  the  head  of 
Loch  Tummel,  and  12  miles  W  of  its  post-town,  Pit- 
lochry.    It  has  a  fair  on  the  second  Tuesday  of  March, 


FOTHRINGHAM 

old  style.  Foss  House,  |  mile  nearer  the  loch,  is  a  seat 
of  Sir  Eobert  Menzies,  Bart,  of  Castle-Menzies.  The 
parish,  constituted  by  ecclesiastical  authority  in  1830, 
by  civil  authority  in  1845,  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Weem 
and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling  ;  its  minister's  stipend 
is  £120.  Pop.  (1871)  270,  (1881)  2W.—0rd.  Sur.,  sh. 
55,  1869. 

Fossoway,  a  parish  chiefly  in  Perthshire,  but  partly 
in  Kinross-.shire,  containing  the  villages  of  Blairingone, 
Crook  of  Devon,  and  Carnbo,  and  comprising  the 
ancient  parishes  of  Fossoway  and  Tulliebole,  united 
about  1614.  Very  irregular  in  outline,  it  is  bounded  N 
by  Dunning,  NE  by  Orwell,  E  by  Kinross,  SE  by  Cleish, 
S  by  Torryburn  and  Saline  in  Fife,  SW  by  Clackmannan 
and  Dollar  in  Clackmannanshire,  and  W  by  Muckart 
and  Glendevon.  Its  length,  from  ENE  to  WSW,  varies 
between  2J  and  8|  miles  ;  its  utmost  breadth,  from  N  to 
S,  is  5 J  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  17, 356  J  acres,  of  which 
6904J  belong  to  the  Kinross-shire  or  Tulliebole  section. 
On  or  close  to  the  Glendevon  and  Muckart  border,  the 
'  crystal  Devon  '  winds  9g  miles  south-eastward  and 
west-south-westward,  from  just  above  Downhill  to  near 
Pitgober,  the  point  where  it  first  touches  and  that 
where  it  leaves  this  parish  being  only  4J  miles  distant 
as  the  crow  flies.  During  this  course  it  exhibits  the 
finest  of  its  famous  sceuery,  described  in  our  articles 
Devil's  Mill,  Rumbling-Bridge,  and  Caldron  Linn. 
Other  chief  streams  are  Gairney  Water,  which  falls  into 
the  Devon  below  the  Caldron  Linn,  and  South  Queich 
Water,  running  to  Loch  Leven.  Perennial  springs  of  pure 
water  are  everywhere  abundant ;  a  petrifying  spring  is 
on  the  lands  of  Devonshaw ;  and  a  medicinal  spring, 
erroneously  known  as  Dollar  Water,  is  on  the  lands  of 
Blairingone.  The  surface  declines  along  the  Devon  to 
close  on  100  feet  above  sea-level,  and  S  of  Crook  of 
Devon,  it,  though  undulating,  nowhere  much  exceeds 
600  feet ;  but  northwards  it  rises  to  734  feet  near 
Knoekintinny,  1496  at  Lendrick  Hill,  1134  at  Cloon, 
1573  at  Mellock  Hill,  and  1621  at  Innerdouny  Hill— 
srmimits  these  of  the  Ochils.  The  rocks  are  partly 
eruptive,  partly  carboniferous.  Trap  and  sandstone  are 
quarried  in  several  places ;  coal  has  been  worked  in  three 
mines,  ironstone  in  one ;  and  limestone  occurs  in  con- 
nection with  both,  whilst  copper  ore,  not  rich  enough 
to  repay  the  cost  of  working,  is  found  near  Rumbling- 
Bridge.  The  soils  are  variously  clayey,  loamy,  gravelly, 
and  mossy ;  and  some  are  fertile,  others  very  inferior. 
Fully  three-fifths  of  all  the  land  are  regularly  or  occa- 
sionally in  tillage,  and  some  650  acres  are  under  wood. 
Aldie  and  Tulliebole  castles  are  prominent  objects,  both 
separately  noticed ;  mansions  are  Devonshaw  and  Glen 
Tower  ;  and  an  old  circular  ruin  on  the  lands  of  Aldie, 
an  oblong  moated  mound  on  the  barony  of  Coldrain, 
the  Gallow  Knowe  adjacent  to  Crook  of  Devon  village, 
and  the  Monk's  Grave  between  the  lands  of  Gartwhinean 
and  those  of  Pitfar,  are  chief  antiquities.  Fonr  pro- 
prietors hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards, 
23  of  between  £100  and  £500,  9  of  from  £50  to  £100, 
and  18  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Giving  off  a  portion  to  the 
quoad  sacra  parish  of  Blairingone,  this  parish  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Kinross  and  synod  of  Fife ;  the  living  is 
worth  £265.  The  parish  church,  near  Crook  of  Devon 
village,  was  built  in  1806,  and  contains  525  sittings. 
There  is  also  a  Free  church  of  Fossoway ;  and  two  public 
schools,  Carnbo  and  Fossoway,  with  respective  accommo- 
dation for  88  and  170  children,  had  (1881)  an  average 
attendance  of  42  and  77,  and  gi-ants  of  £52,  12s.  and 
£51,  4s.  2d.  Valuation  (1882)  £8782,  5s.  8d.  Pop. 
(1801)  1312,  (1831)  1576,  (1841)  1724,  (1861)  1584, 
(1871)  1461,  (1881)  1267,  of  whom  772  belonged  to  the 
Perthshire  section,  and  934  to  the  ecclesiastical  parish 
of  Fossoway.— Ord  Sur.,  shs.  40,  39,  1867-69. 

Fothringham,  a  Scottish  Baronial  mansion  of  1859, 
designed  by  the  late  David  Bryce,  in  Inverarity  parish, 
Forfarshire,  at  the  southern  base  of  wooded  Fothringham 
Hill  (800  feet),  6  miles  S  by  E  of  Forfar.  It  is  a  seat  of 
WalterThos.  Jas.  Scrymsoure-Fothringham,Esq.  of  Pow- 
RIE,  Fothringham,  and  Tealing  (b.  1862;  sue.  1864), 
who  owns  12,529  acres  in  the  county,  valued  at  £13,400 

65 


FOUDLAND 

per  annum,  and  whose  ancestor  settled  in  Forfarshire  in 
the  latter  half  of  the  14th  century. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  57, 
1868. 

Foudland,  an  upland  tract  in  Forgue,  Insch,  and 
Culsalmond  parishes,  Aberdeenshire.  Flanking  the  upper 
basin  of  the  Ury,  and  extending  E  and  W,  it  rises  to  a 
maximum  altitude  of  1529  feet  above  sea-level,  and 
has  in  main  degree  a  bleak  moorish  surface.  Slates 
of  clear  light  blue  colour  and  excellent  quality  abound 
in  the  Insch  part  of  it ;  were  long  quarried  to  the 
amount  of  nearly  a  million  pieces  a  year,  chiefly  for 
the  market  of  Aberdeen ;  but  ceased  to  be  in  higli 
request,  principally  in  consequence  of  the  greater  cheap- 
ness of  sea-borne  slates  from  the  quarries  of  Easdale  in 
Argyllshire.— OrcZ.  Sur.,  sh.  86,  1876. 

Foula.     See  Fowla. 

Foulden,  a  village  and  a  parish  in  the  eastern  part 
of  Merse  district,  Berwickshire.  The  village  stands  1 
mile  to  the  N  of  Whitadder  "Water,  and  5^  miles  S  of 
Ayton  station,  4  E  by  S  of  Chimside,  and  5  WNW  of 
Berwick-upon-Tweed,  under  which  it  has  a  post  office. 
A  pretty  little  place,  it  once  was  a  burgh  of  barony  and 
a  place  of  considerable  size  and  note,  and  had  its  Border 
peel-tower,  whilst  its  church,  on  23  March  1587,  was  the 
meeting-place  of  Elizabeth's  commissioners  with  those 
of  James  VI.,  to  vindicate  the  execution  of  Queen  Mary. 

The  parish  is  bounded  N  by  Ayton,  E  and  SE  by 
Mordington,  S  by  Hutton,  and  W  by  Chirnside.  Its 
utmost  length,  from  E  to  W,  is  2^  miles ;  its  utmost 
breadth,  from  N  to  S,  is  2f  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  3298 
acres,  of  which  20  are  water.  Whitaddee  Water  winds 
2J  mUes  east-by-southward  between  steep  banks  along 
all  the  southern  border,  and  receives  three  little  burns 
from  this  parish,  one  of  which  traces  most  of  the 
boundary  with  Mordington.  The  surface  declines  at 
the  SE  corner  to  less  than  100  feet  above  sea-level, 
thence  rising  to  389  feet  near  Blinkbonny,  461  near 
Mosspark,  421  near  St  Johns,  and  642  at  Greenfield — 
heights  that  command  a  wide  and  magnificent  view  of 
Flodden  and  other  famous  historic  scenes.  The  rocks 
are  mainly  Devonian  ;  and  the  soil  ranges  from  stony 
clay  in  the  S  to  loamy  towards  the  centre,  and  light  and 
moorish  in  the  N.  Rather  more  than  one -twelfth  of  the 
entire  area  is  under  wood,  chiefly  in  the  central  dis- 
trict ;  one-ninth  is  natural  pasture ;  and  all  the  rest  is  in 
tillage.  Foulden  House,  to  the  E  of  the  village,  is  the 
seat  of  the  chief  proprietor,  John  Wilkie,  Esq.  (b.  1806  ; 
sue.  1817),  who  holds  2550  acres  in  the  shire,  valued 
at  £5245  per  annum.  Another  mansion  is  Newlands 
House,  ^  mile  N  of  the  village.  Foulden  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Chirnside  and  synod  of  Merse  and  Teviot- 
dale  ;  the  living  is  worth  £260.  The  church,  rebuilt  in 
1786,  contains  166  sittings;  and  a  public  school,  with 
accommodation  for  72  children,  had  (1881)  an  average 
attendance  of  41,  and  a  grant  of  £38,  9s.  6d.  Valuation 
(1865)  £5563,  2s.  lOd.,  (1882)  £6529, 16s.  Pop.  (1801) 
393,  (1831)  424,  (1861)  431,  (1871)  425,  (1881)  393.— 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  34,  1864. 

Foulis  Castle,  a  mansion  in  Kiltearn  parish,  Ross- 
shire,  standing  f  mile  N"W  of,  and  200  feet  above,  the 
Cromarty  Firth,  close  to  whose  shore  is  Foulis  station 
on  the  Highland  railway,  2  miles  SSW  of  Evanton 
or  Novar,  and  4J  NNE  of  Dingwall.  A  splendid 
pile,  with  beautiful  grounds,  it  is  the  seat  of  Sir  Charles 
Munro,  ninth  Bart,  since  1634  (b.  1795  ;  sue.  1848), 
the  chief  of  the  clan  Munro,  who,  after  serving  under 
Wellington,  was  made  a  Columbian  general  by  Bolivar 
in  1818,  and  who  owns  4453  acres  in  the  shire,  valued 
at  £3781  per  annum.  The  Foulis  estate  has  been  held  by 
the  Munroes  since  early  in  the  12th  century,  on  the  tenure 
of  furnishing  a  snowball,  if  required,  at  midsummer. 
They  fought  at  Bannockburn,  Halidon  Hill,  Harlaw, 
Pinkie,  Fontenoy,  and  Falkirk  ;  and  Robert  Munro,  the 
eighteenth  or  '  Black  '  Baron,  with  700  men  from  his  ovra 
estate,  served  under  the  '  Immortal '  Gustavus,  and  died 
of  a  wound  at  Ulm  in  1633.  The  Munroes'  slogan  is 
•Castle  Foulis  in  flames. '—Ord  Sur.,  sh.  93,  1881. 

Foulshiels,  a  place  in  Selkirk  parish,  Selkirkshire,  on 
the  left  bank  of  Yarrow  Water,  opposite  Newark  Castle, 
56 


FOVEEAN 

and  3J  miles  W  by  N  of  Selkirk  town.  A  farmhouse 
(now  ruinous)  here  was  the  birthplace  of  the  African 
traveller,  Mungo  Park  (1771-1805),  and  the  place  of  his 
residence  on  the  eve  of  his  second  and  fatal  expedition. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  25,  1865. 

Fountainbleau.     See  Dumfries. 

Fountainhall,  the  seat  of  Sir  Thomas  H.  Dick  Lauder, 
Bart.,  in  Pencaitland  parish,  Haddingtonshire,  IJ  mile 
SW  of  Pencaitland  village,  and  5  mUes  SSE  of  Tranent. 
The  lands  of  Fountainhall  were  acquired  by  Sir  John 
Lauder,  who  in  1688  was  created  a  baronet  of  Nova 
Scotia,  and  whose  ancestors  had  been  lairds  of  the  Bass 
Rock  from  the  13th  to  the  16th  century.  His  son.  Sir 
John  (1646-1722),  an  eminent  lawyer  and  statesman, 
was  appointed  a  lord  of  Session  in  1689,  "ivith  the  title 
of  Lord  Fountainhall.  He  is  remembered  by  his  Deci- 
sioTis,  as  is  his  fourth  descendant.  Sir  Thomas  Dick- 
Lauder  (1784-1848),  by  his  fictions  and  other  writings. 
The  present  and  ninth  baronet.  Sir  Thomas-North  Dick- 
Lander  (b.  1846  ;  sue.  1867),  holds  600  acres  in  East 
and  68  in  Mid  Lothian,  valued  at  £1174  and  £1066  per 
annum.— Orrf.  Sur.,  sh.  33,  1863.  See  Sir  T.  Dick- 
Lander's  Scottish  Rivers  (Edinb.  1874). 

Fountainhall,  a  hamlet  in  Stow  parish,  SE  Edin- 
burghshire, on  the  right  bank  of  Gala  Water,  with  a 
station  on  the  North  British  railway,  4J  miles  NNW  of 
Stow  village,  under  which  it  has  a  post  office. 

Fouiman  Hill.    See  Foreman. 

Fourmerkland,  a  place  in  Holywood  parish,  Dum- 
friesshire, 5  miles  WNW  of  Dumfries.  A  small  tower 
here  was  built  by  R.  Maxwell  in  1590. 

Fourmilehouse,  a  village  in  Tealing  parish,  Forfar- 
shire, 4  mOes  N  by  E  of  Dundee. 

Foveran,  a  coast  parish  of  E  Aberdeenshire,  contain- 
ing the  seaport  village  of  Neweup.gh,  which  stands  at 
the  right  side  of  the  Ythan's  embouchure,  5  mUes  SE 
of  Ellon  station,  6J  E  by  N  of  Udny  station  on  the 
western  border,  and  13J  NNE  of  Aberdeen,  under  which 
it  has  a  post  and  telegi-aph  office,  and  with  which  it 
communicates  by  coach.  It  is  bounded  N  by  Logic-  • 
Buchan,  NE  by  Slains,  E  by  the  German  Ocean,  S  by 
Belhelvie,  and  W  and  NW  by  Udny.  Its  utmost 
length,  from  E  to  W,  is  6J  miles  ;  its  greatest  breadth 
is  3J  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  10,844  acres,  of  which  248f 
are  foreshore,  and  63  water.  The  Ythan,  in  places 
here  ^  mile  broad  at  high  water,  flows  IJ  mile  south- 
south-eastward  between  Foveran  and  Slains  to  its  bar- 
obstructed  mouth  in  the  German  Ocean,  and  at  New- 
burgh  is  joined  by  Foveran  Burn,  which,  rising  near 
TUlery,  runs  7J  miles  through  the  interior ;  whilst 
another  of  its  tributaries.  Tarty  Burn,  traces  most  of 
the  Udny  border.  The  coast-line,  1^  mile  long,  is  low 
and  sandy  ;  and  from  it  the  surface  rises  gently  inland 
to  300  feet  at  HUlhead  of  Ardo,  78  at  the  parish  church, 
212  near  Davieshill,  and  400  at  the  western  border  near 
Edgehill.  The  principal  rocks  are  trap,  gneiss,  mica 
slate,  and  conglomerate ;  and  the  soU  varies  from  a 
sandy  loam  to  a  rich  clay  loam  and  a  strong  clay.  The 
parish  is  poorly  wooded,  its  eastern  exposure  stunting 
what  trees  there  are  ;  and  nearly  all  the  land  is  devoted 
to  agriculture,  large  tracts  of  waste  having  been  drained 
and  enclosed  about  the  beginning  of  the  present  cen- 
tury. The  castle  of  Knockhall,  1  mile  NNW  of  New- 
burgh,  built  by  the  Udny  family  in  1565,  was  captured 
by  the  Covenanters  under  the  Earl  Marischal  and  the 
Earl  of  Errol  in  1639  ;  and,  accidentally  burned  in  1734, 
still  stands  in  a  ruinous  state.  Of  Foveran  Castle,  near 
Foveran  House,  not  a  vestige  remains.  The  oldest  part 
bore  the  name  of  Turing's  Tower,  after  its  first  pos- 
sessors, from  whom  it  passed,  about  the  middle  of  the 
17th  century,  to  a  branch  of  the  Forbeses  of  Tolquhoun. 
A  rhyme,  ascribed  to  Thomas  of  Ercildoune,  foretold — 

*  When  Turing's  Tower  falls  to  the  land, 
Gladsmuir  shall  be  near  at  hand  ; 
When  Turinj,''s  Tower  falls  to  the  sea, 
Gladsmuir  the  next  year  shall  be.' 

The  tower  did  fall  not  long  before  1720,  and  in  1745 
the  Highlanders  were  for  giving  the  name  of  Gladsmuir 


FOWLA 

to  their  victory  at  Prestonpans  (Chambers's  Popular 
Rhymes,  p.  219,  ed.  1870).  An  ancient  buryin^-ground 
near  the  vUlage  retains  a  fragment  of  the  '  Eed  Chapel 
of  Buchan,'  or  Chapel  of  the  Holy  Rood.  Foveran 
House,  1  mile  SSW  of  Newburgh,  is  an  old  mansion  ; 
whilst  Tilleiy,  in  the  W  of  the  parish,  li  mUe  SSE  of 
Udny  station,  is  a  more  recent  Grecian  edifice.  Five 
proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  up- 
wards, 6  of  between  £100  and  £500,  1  of  from  £50  to 
£100,  and  6  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Foveran  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Ellon  and  sjTiod  of  Aberdeen  ;  the  living 
is  worth  £296.  The  parish  church,  on  the  right  bank 
of  Foveran  Burn,  1^  mile  SW  of  Newburgh,  is  a  plain 
edifice  of  1794,  containing  700  sittings,  and  a  marble 
monument  with  two  fine  busts  of  Col.  John  Aumistus 
and  Col.  Robert  FuUerton  Udny,  of  Udny  and  Dudwick, 
who  died  in  1859  and  1861.  There  is  also  a  Free 
church  1|  mUe  further  SSW  ;  and  three  public  schools 
— CultercuUen,  Foveran,  and  Newburgh  Mathers — with 
respective  accommodation  for  100,  170,  and  169  children, 
had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  128,  105,  and  170, 
and  grants  of  £116,  17s.,  £74,  14s.,  and  £143,  9s. 
Valuation  (1860)  £9099,  (1881)  £13,166,  13s.  7d.  Pop. 
(1801)  1391,  (1831)  1609,  (1861)  1891,  (1871)  1859, 
(1881)  2042.— 0/-d  Siir.,  sh.  77,  1873. 

Fowla  or  Foula,  a  Shetland  island  belonging  to  Walls 
parish,  16  miles  "WSW  of  the  nearest  part  of  the  Shetland 
maiuland,  and  35  NNE  of  the  nearest  part  of  Orkney. 
It  measures  about  3  miles  in  length  by  1 J  mile  in  breadth ; 
and,  as  viewed  at  a  little  distance,  appears  to  consist  of 
five  conical  hUls,  rising  steeply  from  the  water,  till  tlie 
highest  attains  an  altitude  of  1300  feet.  It  is  easily 
seen  on  a  clear  day  from  the  northern  parts  of  Orkney  ; 
and,  tested  by  Tacitus'  words  in  speaking  of  the  ut- 
most limits  of  Agricola's  victories,  it  has  better  claims 
than  any  other  island  to  be  deemed  the  Ultima  Thule 
of  the  ancients.  Only  one  spot,  the  fishing  station  of 
Ham,  situated  on  its  E  side,  is  available  as  a  landing- 
place  ;  the  coast  all  round,  except  at  that  spot,  is  almost 
one  unbroken  precipice,  rising  sublimely  and  terribly  to 
the  shoulders  or  tops  of  the  hills  ;  and  the  brink  of  these 
cli6fs,  1100  to  1200  feet  high,  commands  a  most  giddy, 
impressive,  and  magnificent  view  over  wide  expanses  of 
the  encircling  Atlantic.  The  single  landing-place  is 
much  frequented  as  a  fishing-station ;  the  cliffs  are 
denizened  with  myriads  of  cormorants,  kittywakes, 
gulls,  and  other  sea-fowl ;  and  the  rocks  are  sandstone, 
except  where  claystone  slate  occm's  near  Ham.  '  Fowla,' 
says  a  •miter  in  Trans.  Highl.  and  Ag.  Soc.  (1874), 
'  seems  to  be  chiefly  valued  as  a  fishing  and  curing  station, 
and  the  only  agriculture  practised  in  it  is  that  of  the 
Shetlander  pure  and  simple.  Yet,  in  our  opinion,  it  is 
capable  of  producing  finer  crops  than  any  other  island 
in  the  group.  Much  of  the  soil  is  naturally  good,  and 
the  climate  is  manifestly  more  largely  affected  by  the 
Gulf  Stream  than  that  of  any  other  part  of  Scotland. 
Nowhere  else  have  we  seen  crops  of  here,  oats,  and 
potatoes  grow  so  luxuriantly  ;  while  the  natural  pasture 
of  the  steep  but  grassy  hUls  is  rich  and  varied  in  the 
nature  of  its  component  plants.  On  the  other  hand, 
nowhere  are  the  ruinous  efi'ects  of  the  "  scalping"  system 
more  conspicuous,  a  whole  district  of  the  island,  between 
the  tillage  and  the  mountain,  being  laid  utterly  bare, 
the  turf  carried  off,  and  the  naked  rocks  left  to  glare 
in  the  sunshine.'  Fowla  belongs  to  the  proprietor  of 
Melby  estate,  on  the  western  coast  of  Mainland.  Its 
islanders  are  remarkably  hardy,  have  few  wants,  and 
feel  sti'ong  attachment  to  their  rugged  home.  Pop. 
(1837)  202,  (1S61)  233,  (1871)  257,  (1881)  267. 

Fowlis  Castle.     See  FouLis. 

Fowlis-Easter,  a  parish  on  the  eastern  border  of 
Perthshire,  containing  the  village  of  Fowlis,  6  miles 
WNW  of  Dundee  ;  and,  since  1618,  united  to  the  con- 
tiguous parish  of  Ltjndie  in  Forfarshire.  It  is  bounded 
SW  by  Longforgan  in  Perthshire,  and  N  by  Lundie,  E 
and  S  by  Litf  and  Benvie,  in  Forfarshire.  Its  utmost 
length,  from  WNW  to  ESE,  is  43  miles ;  its  width 
from  j  mile  increases  eastward  to  2J  miles ;  and  its 
area  is  2827  acres,  of  which  nearly  3  are  water.  The  sur- 
41 


FOWLIS-WESTER 

face  ascends,  from  flat  carse  lands  to  the  braes  of  the 
Carse  of  Gowrie,  from  less  than  180  feet  above  sea-level 
near  Mains  of  Fowlis  to  929  at  Blacklaw  Hill,  at  the 
north-western  extremity,  which  commands  a  beautiful 
view  of  the  Carse  and  of  the  southern  screens  of  the 
Tay.  A  lake  of  55  acres,  the  Piper-Dam,  lay  in  its 
upper  part,  but  was  drained  about  1780  for  sake  of  its 
marl.  About  two-thirds  of  the  land  are  in  tillage  ;  and 
the  rest  is  mainly  disposed  in  woodland  and  pasturage. 
By  David  I.  Fowlis  and  other  lands  were  gi-anted,  for 
gallantry  at  the  Battle  of  the  Standard  (1138),  to  William 
of  Maule,  who  was  succeeded  by  his  son-in-law,  Roger 
of  Mortimer.  From  the  latter's  descendant,  Fowlis 
passed  by  marriage  (1377)  to  Sir  Andrew  Gray  of  Brox- 
mouth,  the  first  Lord  Gray  ;  and  by  the  ninth  Lord  it 
was  sold,  in  1669,  to  an  ancestor  of  the  present  pro- 
prietor, Keith-Murray  of  Ochtertyre.  Fowlis  Castle 
stands  to  the  S  of  the  village,  towards  the  head  of  the 
beautiful  Den  of  Fowlis  or  B.4.lrdddekt,  a  favourite 
field  alike  for  geologist  and  botanist.  From  200  to  300 
years  old,  it  was  suflered  to  go  to  decay  towards  the 
close  of  last  century,  but  has  recently  been  rendered 
habitable  for  farm  labourers.  A  church  of  Fowlis-Easter 
is  first  mentioned  in  1180,  and  in  1242  was  dedicated 
to  St  Marnan.  The  present  church  is  commonly  said 
to  date  from  1142,  but  is  Second  Pointed  in  style,  and 
probably  was  built  about  1452  by  Andrew,  second  Lord 
Gray  of  Fowlis,  who  made  it  collegiate  for  a  provost  and 
several  prebends.  Measuring  externally  89J  by  29  feet, 
it  is  all  of  hewn  stone,  and  retains  a  finely-sculptured 
aumbrye,  a  mutUated  octagonal  font  (restored  from 
OchtertjTe),  and  a  curious  carved  rood  screen,  with 
paintings  of  the  Crucifixion,  the  B.  V.  Mary  and  the 
infant  Christ,  St  John  Baptist  and  the  Agnus  Dei,  St 
Peter,  etc.  Of  three  round-headed  doorways,  one  has 
been  blocked  up  ;  and  one,  the  priest's,  is  enriched  with 
a  crocketed  canopy.  In  the  chui'chyard  are  a  cross- 
carved  cofBn-slab  and  a  plain  passion  cross  6  feet  high. 
A  public  school,  vrith  accommodation  for  91  children, 
had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  43,  and  a  grant  of 
£49,  19s.  Valuation  (1882)  £3731,  17s.  2d.  Pop.  (1831) 
322,  (1861)  317,  (1871)  291,  (1881)  311.— Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  48,  1868.  See  vol.  ii.  of  Billings'  Baronial  and 
Ecclesiastical  Antiquities  (1852) ;  T.  S.  Muir's  Descrip- 
tive Notices  of  Ancient  Parochial  aiid  Collegiate  Churches 
of  Scotland  (Lond.  1848) ;  and  an  article  by  Andrew 
Jervise  in  vol.  vii.  oi  Procs.  Soc.  Ants.  Scotl.  (1870). 

Fowlis-Wester,  a  parish  of  central  Perthshire,  con- 
taining Fowlis  village,  2|  miles  NNE  of  Abercairney 
station,  and  4f  EKE  of  Crieff,  under  which  it  has  a  post 
office.  Gilmerton,  2  mUes  NE  of  Criefl',  with  another 
post  office,  lies  on  the  western  border  of  the  parish, 
which  consists  of  two  slenderly  united  sections  and  a 
small  detached  north-westerly  district.  The  main  body 
is  bounded  N  by  Little  Dunkeld,  E  by  Little  Dunkeld, 
a  detached  section  of  Monzie,  and  Methven,  SE  by 
Methven,  S  by  Madderty,  SW  by  Criefl',  W  by  Crieff 
and  Monzie,  and  NW  by  the  Amulree  section  of  Dull. 
Its  utmost  length,  from  N  to  S,  is  lOi  mUes;  its  breadth 
varies  between  5  furlongs  and  65  mfles  ;  and  its  area  is 
22,85SJ  acres,  of  which  65-J  are  water,  and  590j  belong 
to  the  detached  portion,  which  extends  for  4J  furlongs 
along  the  river  Almond,  5  miles  WSW  of  Amulree. 
Nearly  9  miles  lower  down  the  Almond  has  an  east-by- 
northerly  course  of  9  furlongs  along  the  boundary  with 
Crieff,  5-J  furlongs  across  the  interior  at  the  neck  of  the 
main  body,  and  1 J  mile  along  the  boundary  with  Jlonzie 
(detached) ;  whOst  the  Bean  winds  3J  miles  along  all 
the  northern  border.  Other  boundaries  of  the  parish 
are  traced  by  Fendoch,  Shiligan,  and  Milton  Burns,  and 
sluggish  Pow  Water  separates  it  from  Madderty.  Here, 
in  the  SE,  along  the  Pow,  the  surface  declines  to  less 
than  200  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  to  441  feet 
at  Aldie,  706  near  Drummick,  806  at  Murray's  HiU, 
1098  at  Stroness,  1153  at  MeaU  Quhanzie,  and  2117  at 
Meall  Tarsuinn.  The  northern  portion  of  the  main 
body,  whilst  sinking  to  490  feet  along  the  N  bank  of 
the  Almond,  rises  north-north-westward  to  932  feet  at 
CastlehiU,  1737  at  Craig  Lea,  2025  at  MeaU  Reamhar, 

57 


FOWLSHEUGH 

2044  at  Meall  nan  Caoraioli,  and  1569  at  Dalreoch  Hill, 
from  which  again  it  descends  to  700  feet  along  the 
Bran.  Lastly,  the  detached  position  varies  in  altitude 
from  800  feet  to  2367  on  Beinn  na  Gainimh  at  its 
north-eastern  corner.  The  northern  division  of  the 
main  body,  consisting  of  rugged  spurs  of  the  Grampians, 
and  dividing  Strathbran  from  Glenalmond,  is,  with 
trifling  exception,  all  of  it  wild  or  pastoral.  The 
southern,  in  a  general  view,  has  a  singularly  varied  and 
unequal  surface,  flecked  and  clumped  with  coppices 
and  groves ;  but  along  Pow  Water,  throughout  the 
southern  border,  consists  of  an  opulent  and  finely -shel- 
tered valley.  The  dells  and  ravines  of  the  hiUier  por- 
tions are  graced  in  numerous  places  with  tiny  cascades, 
and  abound  throughout  with  other  features  of  fine  close 
scenery.  The  hills  themselves,  with  their  large  extent 
of  southern  exposure,  are  so  adorned  with  wood  and  iine 
enclosures  as  to  present  a  very  charming  appearance ; 
and,  from  many  points,  they  command  magnificent 
views  of  Strathearn.  Granite,  clay  slate,  and  sandstone 
are  the  prevailing  rocks  ;  but  columnar  trap  and  lime- 
stone also  occur.  The  slate,  of  beautiful  dark  blue 
colour,  possesses  superior  pi'operties  for  roofing  purposes, 
andhaslongbeenlargelyquarriedat Ckaiglea.  Thesand- 
stone  in  places  suits  well  for  building,  having  a  beauti- 
ful colour  and  a  dm-able  texture  ;  admits  of  fine  polish  ; 
and  has  been  quarried  on  the  lands  of  Abercairney  and 
Cultoquhey.  The  soil,  alluvial  in  the  valley  of  the  Pow, 
is  elsewhere  variously  gravelly,  sandy,  loamy,  and 
clayey.  Little  more  than  a  fourth  of  the  entire  area  is 
in  tillage ;  woods  and  plantation  cover  somelSOO  acres;  and 
the  rest  is  pastoral  or  waste.  The  castle  of  the  ancient 
Earls  of  Strathearn  stood  on  the  E  side  of  a  ravine  f  mile 
E  of  Powlis  village,  and  is  now  represented  by  only  a 
grassy  knoll.  Remains  of  a  double  concentric  stone  circle, 
comprising  40  stones  in  the  exterior  range,  and  measur- 
ing 54  feet  in  circumference,  croivn  the  brow  of  a  hill  to 
the  N  of  the  village ;  and  three  other  ancient  Cale- 
donian standing  stones  and  a  cromlech  are  on  the  W ; 
whilst  in  the  middle  of  the  village  square  stands  the 
'  Cross  of  Fowlis,'  transferred  to  its  present  site  from  Eal 
na  croisk,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Sma'  Glen,  and  sculp- 
tured with  figures  of  men  and  animals.  Buchanty  has 
been  noticed  separately,  as  likewise  are  the  four  mansions, 
Abercairney,  Cultoquhey,  Glen  Tulchan,  and  KeiUor 
Castle.  Sir  David  Moray  of  Gorthie,  author  of  The  Tra- 
gical Death  of  Sophonisba  (1611),  and  governor  to  Prince 
Henry,  was  born  at  Abercairney ;  and  at  the  parish  school 
were  educated  the  Rev.  William  Taylor,  D.D.  (1744-1823), 
principal  of  Glasgow  University,  and  the  Rev.  Archi- 
bald Alison  (1757-1839),  author  of  the  Essay  on  Taste. 
Fowlis-Wester  gives  off  portions  to  Monzie  and  Logie- 
almond,  and  itself  is  a  living,  of  £327  value,  in  the 
presbytery  of  Auchterarder  and  synod  of  Perth  and 
Stirling.  The  church,  at  the  village,  is  a  long  and  ugly 
edifice  of  Reformation  time,  with  500  sittings,  and  with 
a  fine  lych-gate,  bearing  date  1644,  but  evidently  older. 
The  patron  saint  was  Beanus,  born  'apud  Fovlis  in 
Stratherne  ; '  and  tUl  1877  a  yearly  market  was  held  at 
Fowlis  village  on  his  birthday,  26  Oct.  o.s.  Balgowan 
public,  Fowlis  public,  and  Glenalmond  subscriptic  school, 
with  respective  accommodation  for  84,  114,  and  67  chil- 
dren, had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  60,  53,  and  14, 
andgi-antsof£54,  2s.,  £45,  15s.,  and £27,  6s.  Valuation 
(1866)  £14,092,  (1SS3)  £15,569,  19s.  lid.  Pop.  of  civil 
parish  (1801)  1614,  (1831)  1680,  (1861)  1433,  (1871)  1161, 
(1881)  1112,  of  whom  51  were  Gaelic-speaking  ;  of  eccle- 
siastical parish  (1871)850,  (1881)771 ;  of  registration  dis- 
trict (1871)  1028,  (1881)  978.— Orrf.  Sur.,  sh.  47,  1869. 

Fowlsheugh,  a  range  of  cliffs  on  the  coast  of  Dunnot- 
tar  parish,  Kincardineshire,  2^  miles  S  of  Stonehaven. 
Measuring  upwards  of  a  mUe  in  length,  and  rising  very 
boldly  from  the  sea,  it  consists  of  Old  Red  sandstone 
and  conglomerate,  the  latter  containing  nodules  of  quartz 
and  limestone.  Myriads  of  guDs,  coots,  and  other  sea- 
fowl  here  build  their  nests  ;  and  it  is  let  to  a  tenant  for 
the  perilous  privilege  of  taking  the  birds  and  their  eggs 
by  means  of  ropes  lowered  from  the  top. 

Fowlshiels.    See  Foulshiels. 
58 


FOYERS 

Foxhall,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Kirkliston 
parish,  Linlithgowshire,  near  the  left  bank  of  the  Al- 
mond, 3  furlongs  E  by  S  of  Kirkliston  village. 

Foxton,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Cupar  parish, 
Fife,  2  miles  NE  of  the  town. 

Foyers  or  Fechlin,  a  small  river  of  Boleskiue  and 
Abertarff  parish,  central  Inverness-shire,  issuing  from 
Loch  KiLLiK  (IJ  X  J  mile  ;  1050  feet),  and  thence  wind- 
ing 9  miles  north-north-westward  and  northward,  till  it 
falls  into  Loch  Ness,  opposite  the  peak  of  Mealfourvonie 
(2284  feet),  and  lOJ  miles  NE  of  Fort  Augustus.  Its 
course  is  chiefly  along  a  high  glen,  with  wild  mountain 
screens,  and  during  the  last  IJ  mile  it  makes  a  total 
descent  of  400  feet,  including  two  surpassingly  pictur- 
esque falls,  amid  grandly  romantic  accompaniments  of 
rock  and  wood.  Foyers  House,  the  property  of  Fountaine 
Walker,  Esq.  of  Ness  Castle,  stands  at  the  left  side  of 
its  mouth  ;  and  on  the  right  side,  above  the  steamboat 
jetty,  is  the  Foyers  Hotel,  on  the  site  of  what  was  called 
the  '  General's  Hut, '  from  General  Wade  of  road-making 
celebrity.  A  carriage-way  ascends  by  easy  traverses  from 
the  pier  to  the  falls,  and  footpaths  afford  short  cuts  for 
pedestrians.  The  upper  faU  is  a  leap  of  40,  and  the 
lower  fall  of  165,  feet.  Dr  E.  D.  Clarke,  the  celebrated 
traveller,  pronounced  the  lower  fall  to  be  a  finer  cascade 
than  that  of  Tivoli,  and  inferior  only  to  the  Falls  of 
Terni ;  and  Robert  Burns,  as  he  stood  beside  it  on  5 
Sept.  1787,  TiTote  :— 

*  Amonfj  the  heathy  hills  and  rugged  woods. 
The  roaring  Foyers  pours  his  mossy  floods, 
Till  full  he  dashes  on  the  rocky  mounds, 
Where  thro'  a  shapeless  breach  his  stream  resounds. 
As  high  in  air  the  bursting  torrents  flow. 
As  deep  recoiling  surges  foam  below. 
Prone  down  the  rock  the  whitening  sheet  descends. 
And  viewless  echo's  ear,  astonish'd,  rends. 
Dim-seen,  thro'  rising  mists  and  ceaseless  showers, 
The  hoary  cavern,  wide  surrounding,  lowers ; 
Still  thro'  the  gap  the  struggling  river  toils. 
And  still  below  the  horrid  caldron  boils.* 

'  The  fall  of  Foyers, '  says  Professor  Wilson,  '  is  the 
most  magnificent  cataract,  out  of  all  sight  and  hearing, 
in  Britain.  The  din  is  quite  loud  enough  in  ordinary 
weather — and  it  is  only  in  ordinary  weather  that  you 
can  approach  the  place  from  which  you  have  a  full  view 
of  all  its  grandeur.  When  the  fall  is  in  flood — to  say 
nothing  of  being  di-enched  to  the  skin — you  are  so 
blinded  by  the  sharp  spray  smoke,  and  so  deafened  by 
the  dashing  and  clashing  and  tumbling  and  rumbling 
thunder,  that  your  condition  is  far  from  enviable,  as  you 
cling,  "lonely  lover  of  nature,"  to  a  shelf  by  no  means 
eminent  for  safety,  above  the  horrid  gulf.  In  ordinary 
Highland  weather — meaning  thereby  weather  neither 
very  wet  nor  very  dry — it  is  worth  walking  a  thousand 
miles  for  one  hour  to  behold  the  fall  of  Foyers.  The 
spacious  cavity  is  enclosed  by  "complicated  cliffs  and 
perpendicular  precipices "  of  immense  height ;  and 
though  for  a  while  it  wears  to  the  eye  a  savage  aspect, 
yet  beauty  fears  not  to  dwell  even  there,  and  the  horror 
is  softened  by  what  appear  to  be  masses  of  tall  shrubs  or 
single  shrubs  almost  like  trees.  And  they  are  trees, 
which  on  the  level  plain  would  look  even  stately ;  but 
as  they  ascend,  ledge  above  ledge,  the  walls  of  that 
awful  chasm,  it  takes  the  eye  time  to  see  them  as  they 
really  are,  while  on  our  first  discernment  of  their  char- 
acter, serenely  standing  among  the  tumult,  they  are  felt 
on  such  sites  to  be  sublime.  Between  the  falls  and  the 
strath  of  Stratherrick,  a  space  of  three  or  four  miles,  the 
river  Foyers  flows  through  a  series  of  low  rocky  hills 
clothed  with  birch.  They  present  various  quiet  glades 
and  open  spaces,  where  little  patches  of  cultivated 
ground  are  encircled  by  wooded  hillocks,  whose  surface 
is  pleasingly  diversified  by  nodding  trees,  bare  rocks, 
empurpled  heath,  and  bracken-bearing  herbage.  It  was 
the  excessive  loveliness  of  some  of  the  scenery  there  that 
suggested  to  us  the  thought  of  going  to  look  what  kind 
of  a  stream  the  Foyers  was  above  the  fall.  We  went, 
and  in  the  quiet  of  a  summer  evening,  found  it 

'  "  Was  even  the  gentlest  of  all  gentle  things.'" 

See  Steathebriok,  Boleskine  and  Adeetaeff,  and 


FKACAFIELD 

chap.  IT.  of  James  Brown's  Round  Talle  Club  (Elgin, 
lS7i).—0nl.  Sur.,  sh.  73,  1878. 

Fracafield,  a  village  in  Shetland,  SJ  miles  from 
Lerwick. 

Fraisgill,  a  cavern  in  Durness  parish,  Sutherland, 
on  the  W  base  of  Whiten  Head  and  the  E  coast  of  Loch 
Eriboll,  6  miles  NNE  of  Heilem  ferry,  ileasuring  50 
feet  in  height  and  20  in  width  at  the  entrance,  it  runs 
about  J  mile  into  the  bowels  of  the  eartli,  and  gradually 
contracts  into  lowness  and  narrowness.  Its  walls  are 
variegated  with  a  thousand  colours  so  softly  and  deli- 
cately blended,  as  to  outvie  the  finest  productions  of  the 
painter's  brush. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  114,  ISSO. 

France,  Little,  a  hamlet  at  the  boundary  between 
Liberton  and  Newton  parishes,  Edinburghshire,  i  mile 
S  of  Craigmillar  Castle,  and  3  miles  SE  of  Edinburgh. 
It  got  its  name  from  being  the  residence  of  some  of 
Queen  Mary's  retainers,  brought  with  her  from  France. 

Frankfield,  a  lake  (2J  x  2  furl. ),  near  Millerston,  on 
the  mutual  border  of  Barony  and  Cadder  parishes, 
Lanarkshire,  sending  oif  a  rill  to  Hogganfield  Loch. 

Fraoch  Eilean,  a  small  island  in  Loch  Awe,  Argyll- 
shire, 2J  miles  SW  of  Kilchurn  Castle  and  J  mile  NE 
of  Inishail.  The  hero  Fraoch,  going  to  gather  its  ser- 
pent-guarded apples,  which  the  fair  Mego  longed  for, 
slew  and  was  slain  by  the  monster — a  legend  which 
recalls  the  classic  myth  of  the  Hesperides,  and  which 
forms  the  theme  of  an  ancient  Gaelic  poem,  translated 
about  1770  by  the  Rev.  Dr  John  Smith.  In  1267  the 
islet  was  granted  by  Alexander  III.  to  Gilbert  Mac- 
naughton  ;  and  it  contains  the  ruins  of  a  strong  fortalice, 
in  which  the  JIacnaughton  chieftains  resided. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  45,  1876. 

Fraoohy,  Loch.    See  Fkeuchie. 

Fraserburgh,  a  town  and  a  parish  in  the  NE  e.-itrem- 
ity  of  Aberdeenshire.  Founded  by  Alexander  Eraser  of 
Philorth  in  1569,  at  first  the  town  was  known  as  Faith- 
lie,  the  name  of  a  free  burgh  of  barony  erected  by 
charter  of  Queen  Mary  five  years  earlier  ;  but  by  a  new 
charter  of  1601,  it  was  constituted  'a  free  port,  free  burgh 
of  barony,  and  free  regality,  to  be  called  in  all  time 
coming,  the  Burgh  and  Regality  of  Fraserburgh.'  It 
is  built  on  the  southern  slope  of  Kinnaird's  Head,  and 
along  the  western  shore  of  Fraserburgh  Bay,  by  road 
being  22  miles  E  of  Banff  and  17i  NNW  of  Peterhead, 
whilst  by  rail,  as  terminus  of  the  Formartine  and 
Buchan  branch  (1865)  of  the  Great  North  of  Scotland 
railway,  it  is  13  miles  NNE  of  Maud  Junction,  41  NNE 
of  Dyoe  Junction,  47i  N  by  E  of  Aberdeen,  162^  NNE 
of  Edinburgh,  and  200  NE  by  N  of  Glasgow.  Kinnaird's 
Head  (the  Promontorium  Taexalium  of  Ptolemy),  \  mile 
to  the  N,  is  a  rocky  headland,  composed  of  mica  slate, 
and  61  feet  high.  The  Erasers'  castle  here,  dating  from 
1570,  is  a  rectangular  four-storied  tower,  39  feet  by  27  ; 
on  its  roof  a  lighthouse  was  built  in  1787,  whose  lantern, 
rising  120  feet  above  high  water  mark,  shows  a  fixed 
light,  red  over  Rattray  Briggs,  white  in  all  other 
directions,  and  visible  at  a  distance  of  17  nautical  miles. 
A  sea-crag,  60  yards  to  the  eastward,  is  crowned  by  the 
massive  '  Wine  Tower,'  which,  measuring  25}  by  20 
feet,  and  25  high  on  the  landward  side,  contains  two 
vaulted  apartments.  The  only  doorway  is  on  the  upper 
story,  and  the  wooden  stair  leading  up  to  this  is 
modern,  so  that  how  the  tower  was  formerly  entered, 
aud_  what  was  its  purpose,  remain  a  puzzle  to  the 
antiquary.  The  style,  however,  of  five  freestone  carv- 
ings, that  adorn  the  roof  and  two  windows,  is  thought 
to  refer  it  to  the  15th  century.  Beneath  it  is  a  cave, 
the  Seiches  Hole,  believed  to  penetrate  100  feet,  but  now 
much  choked  with  stones.  Scarce  a  vestige  remains  of 
a  square  three-storied  tower  at  the  W  end  of  the  town, 
part  of  a  college  begun  by  Alexander  Eraser,  he  having 
obtained  a  charter  in  1592  to  erect  a  university.  The 
scheme  fell  through,  but  his  building  was  once  called 
into  requisition,  when,  on  the  outbreak  of  the  plague  at 
Aberdeen  in  1647,  King's  College  for  a  time  removed  to 
Fraserburgh.  The  town  itself,  overlooking  the  harbour 
and  bay,  is  neat  and  regular.  Its  principal  streets  run 
parallel  to  the  bay,  with  others  crossing  at  right  angles ; 


FRASERBURGH 

and  recent  shoreward  improvements  and  northward 
extensions  have  always  tended  to  enhance  its  symmetry. 
The  Town  House,  built  in  1855,  is  a  handsome  Grecian 
edifice,  whose  dome-crowned  tower  contains  a  niche, 
with  a  statue  of  Alexander  Eraser,  sixteenth  Lord  Saltoun 
(1785-1853),  a  hero  of  Waterloo  and  of  the  Chinese  opium 
war.  His  portrait  hangs  in  the  town-hall,  on  the  second 
floor,  with  one  of  his  ancestor,  the  founder  of  the  town. 
A  market-cross,  erected  by  that  founder,  stood  originally 
on  a  large  hexagonal  basement,  with  nine  gradations  of 
steps ;  and,  as  restored  in  1853,  is  an  oval  stone  shaft 
12  feet  in  height,  surmounting  a  pedestal,  and  itself  sur- 
mounted by  the  Royal  and  Fraser  arms.  The  prison 
since  1874  has  served  only  for  the  detention  of  prisoners 
whose  period  does  not  exceed  three  days.  The  parish 
church,  rebuilt  in  1802  and  restored  in  1873-74,  is  a 
plain  structure,  with  clock-tower  and  spire  and  1000 
sittings.  The  new  West  quoad  sacra  church  (1877  ;  800 
sittings)  cost  £4000,  and  has  a  very  effective  spire.  A 
fine  new  Free  church  was  erected  in  1880  at  a  cost  of 
£6398  ;  and  other  places  of  worship  are  the  U.P.  church 
(1875  ;  350  sittings),  the  Congregational  church  (1853  ; 
550  sittings),  the  Evangelical  Union  church  (1854),  the 
Baptist  church  (1880),  and  St  Peter's  Episcopal  church 
(1791 ;  300  sittings).  The  last  is  a  cruciform  pseudo- 
Norman  edifice,  enlarged  and  refitted  in  1840  and  1880, 
with  a  good  organ  and  a  marble  tablet  to  Bishop  Alex- 
ander Jolly,  D.D.  (1755-1838),  who  from  1788  till  his 
death  was  minister  here,  and  a  Life  of  whom,  by  the 
Rev.  W.  Walker  (2d  ed. ,  Edinb. ,  1878),  contains  much  of 
interest  relating  to  Fraserburgh.  The  Academy,  opened 
in  1872,  was  built  at  a  cost  of  £2700,  and  further  endowed 
with  £5000,  by  the  late  James  Park,  merchant ;  the 
Girls'  Industrial  school  (1863)  was  mainly  founded  by 
the  late  Miss  Strachan  of  Cortes,  as  a  memorial  to  her 
brother,  James  Strachan,  Esq. ,  M.  D. ,  Inspector  General 
of  Army  Hospitals,  Madras  ;  and  a  new  public  school, 
costing  over  £6000,  was  opened  in  Sept.  1882.  It  has 
accommodation  for  800  children,  and  supersedes  the 
former  burgh  school.  The  hospital  was  built  by  the 
late  Thomas  Walker,  fishcurer,  and  gifted  by  him  to 
the  town ;  whilst  the  Dalrymple  public  hall  and  cafe 
was  built  at  a  cost  of  £4500,  upwards  of  £2300  of  which 
was  given  by  the  late  Captain  John  Dalrymple.  It  is 
Scottish  Baronial  in  style,  and  the  hall  has  accommoda- 
tion for  1100  persons. 

The  town  has,  besides,  a  post  ofiice,  with  money 
order,  savings'  bank,  insurance,  and  telegraph  depart- 
ments, branches  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland  and  the 
Aberdeen  Town  and  County,  North  of  Scotland,  and 
Union  Banks,  13  insurance  agencies,  2  hotels,  a  gas-light 
company,  a  water  supply  from  Ardlaw,  complete  new 
sewage  works,  formed  at  a  cost  of  over  £4000  in  1877,  a 
custom-house,  a  mechanics'  library,  a  news-room,  a 
masonic  lodge,  a  lifeboat  (ISSO),  an  Independent  Friday 
paper,  the  Fraserburgh  Advertiser  (1852),  etc.  There  is 
a  weekly  cattle  auction  ;  corn  markets  are  held  on  Tues- 
day and  Friday  :  and  a  sheriff  small  debt  court  sits  four 
times  a  year.  Whale  and  seal  fishing  is  quite  extinct ; 
and  shipbuilding  has  dwindled  away,  only  4  vessels  of 
418  tons  having  been  launched  here  during  1875-78,  and 
none  during  1879-81.  Some  employment  is  furnished  by 
two  breweries,  a  bone-mill,  two  rope  and  sail  yards,  and 
four  saw-mills  ;  and  a  large  trade  is  done  in  the  export 
of  agricultural  produce,  and  the  import  of  coals,  timber, 
and  groceries,  Fraserburgh  being  a  'creek'  of  Peterhead; 
but  herring  fishing  is  the  staple  industry. 

The  harbour,  founded  by  Alexander  Fraser  on  9  March 
1576  'in  the  name  of  Father,  Son,  and  Holy  Ghost,' 
had  only  one  small  pier.  The  north,  south,  and  middle 
piers  were  built  between  1807  and  1S37  at  a  cost  of 
£30,000,  the  space  within  the  pier  heads  being  nearly 
8  acres,  with  a  depth,  according  to  the  tides,  of  11  to 
16  feet  of  water  inside  and  along  the  quays,  and  of  6 
to  20  feet  at  the  entrance.  In  1855  and  following  years 
a  new  N  harbour  of  8  acres  of  sheltered  water,  with  a 
low- water  depth  of  10  feet  at  the  entrance,  was  formed 
by  the  construction  of  a  pier  and  breakwater,  giving  a 
total  berthage  of  8850  feet,  of  which  6025  are  available 

59 


FBASERBUBGH 

for  shipping.  Tlie  estimated  cost  of  this  N  harbour 
(£25,000)  was  more  than  doubled,  and  even  then  the 
breakwater  was  left  unfinished  till  1875,  when,  and  in 
following  years,  it  was  carried  to  a  length  of  850  feet. 
The  latest  undertaking  (1881)  has  been  the  deepen- 
ing of  both  harbours  and  the  widening  of  the  quays, 
£30,000  having  been  borrowed  for  that  purpose  from 
the  Public  Works  Loan  Commissioners.  '  Of  late 
years,'  to  quote  from  an  article  on  'Fraserburgh'  in 
the  Scotsman  of  11  April  1882,  'the  chief  increase 
in  the  herring  fishery  has  been  from  the  Aberdeen- 
shire ports,  the  principal  of  which  are  Aberdeen, 
Peterhead,  and  Fraserburgh.  Dming  the  season  of 
1874,  about  the  most  productive  year  on  record  up  till 
1880,  more  than  1800  boats  were  fishing  from  these 
ports  and  their  immediate  neighbourhood,  and  about 
400,000  crans  of  fish,  or  more  than  one-third  of  the 
entire  take  of  herrings  in  Scotland,  were  captured  by 
these  boats ;  so  that  the  market  value  of  the  herrings 
now  brought  into  the  Aberdeenshire  ports  in  an  average 
year  is  equal  to  the  whole  land  rental  of  the  county. 
The  sea  is  thus  as  productive  as  the  land  ;  and  if  there 
were  better  harbour  accommodation — though  that  of 
late  years  has  been  considerably  improved — the  produc- 
tion of  the  sea  might  be  still  further  increased.  The 
requisites  of  a  perfect  fishing-boat  harbour  are  an  en- 
trance that  will  allow  the  largest  class  of  boats  to  have 
free  access  and  egress  at  all  times  of  the  tide ;  perfect 
shelter  within  the  entrance  ;  suflicient  space  for  all  the 
boats  that  frequent  the  place  during  the  fishing  season 
to  lie  together  without  crowding  or  jostling ;  enough 
depth  of  water  inside  to  enable  them  to  be  afloat  at  all 
times  of  the  tide  ;  and  proper  facilities  for  fitting  out, 
taking  in  their  nets,  lines,  and  other  gear,  and  for 
landing  their  fish.  Aberdeen,  Peterhead,  and  Fraser- 
burgh are  the  only  ports  on  the  stormy  E  coast  of 
Scotland  that  piossess  to  a  considerable  extent  these 
requisites,  and  they  have,  consequently,  reaped,  and 
will  continue  to  reap,  a  rich  reward.  Their  proximity 
to  the  best  fishing  grounds  of  the  teeming  North  Sea 
certainly  gives  them  exceptional  advantages  ;  but  with- 
out the  sums  judiciously  expended  at  all  the  three  places 
on  harbour  extension  and  improvement,  these  natural 
advantages  would  have  been  comparatively  useless.  The 
following  statistics  with  regard  to  Fraserburgh,  where 
for  many  years  past  the  Harbour  Commissioners  have 
been  engaged  in  improving  and  extending  the  harbour 
accommodation,  are  remarkable  and  interesting  : — 

'  I.  Number  of  Boats,  Crans,  and  Barrels  of  Fish, 
'  AND  Total  Value  op  Herrings. 


Year. 

No.  o£ 
Boats. 

Crans 
Averaije. 

Crans 
Caught. 

Barrels 
Exported. 

Total  Value 

of  Exports 

at  25s. 

1868 

389 

167J 

65,290 

73,253 

£105,606 

1869 

460 

114 

51,317 

67,885i 

90,204 

1870 

480 

187i 

90,028 

103,080 

113,388 

1871 

432 

216i 

93,586 

112,162* 

165,158 

1872 

626 

209" 

130,837 

150,228* 

189,663 

1873 

630 

214 

135,071 

153,889* 

209,033 

1874 

688 

221 

152,088 

lSl,309i 

239,479 

1875 

740 

224 

165,903 

194,457* 

239,830 

1S76 

779 

96 

75,002 

89, 984  J 

167,472 

1877 

736 

176J 

130,000 

154,200 

231,300 

1S78 

745 

207* 

154,587i 

191,043 

23S,803J 

1879 

844 

103| 

87,526 

111,993 

195,987| 

1880 

7S9 

239i 

188,873 

250,180 

312,725 

1881 

843 

137 

114,283* 

165,362* 

206,703 

1882 

785 

172J 

125,120" 

'  Of  these  large  values  two-thirds  are  estimated  on 
reliable  data  to  be  expended  on  labour. 

'II.  Number  of  Fishing-Boats  Owned  within 
Fraserburgh  Dlstriot  on  1  Jan.  1882. — Number  of 
boats  of  all  kinds,  688  ;  number  of  fishermen  employed, 
2151  ;  value  of  boats,  £49,199  ;  value  of  nets,  £55,115  ; 
value  of  lines,  £5450 ;  total  value  of  boats,  nets,  and 
lines,  £109,764. 

'III.  Harbour  Revenue.— (1850)  £1559,  17s.  Id.  ; 
(1855)  £1743,  13s.  3d.  ;  (1860)  £1458,  19s.  3d. ;  (1865) 
60 


FRASERBURGH 

£2361,    13s.    9d. ;   (1870)   £3630,    Is. ;   (1875)  £6344, 
Is.  5d. ;  (1880)  £10,185,  Os.  lid. 

'  IV.  The  total  rental  of  fish-curing  yards  in  Fraser- 
burgh amounted,  in  1862,  to  £393,  15s. — say  £400  at 
twenty  years'  purchase,  £8000.  In  1880-81  the  rental 
of  fish-curing  yards  is  seen  by  the  valuation  roll  to  be 
£2842,  13s.,  besides  ground  rent  charged  otherwise  in 
the  roll — say  £3000  at  twenty  years'  purchase,  £60,000. 
The  curing  stations  at  Balaklava  belonging  to  the  Har- 
bour Commissioners  contain  an  area  of  7297  square 
yards,  and  rented,  in  1862,  for  £65,  10s.  ;  in  1877-78, 
for  £352  ;  and  in  1880-81,  for  £506.  The  curing  yards 
belonging  to  the  Town  Council  contain  an  area  of  8422 
square  yards,  and  rented,  in  1862,  for  £55 ;  and,  in 
1880-81,  for  £207,  5s. 

'  Such  is  a  brief  account  of  the  wonderful  prosperity 
and  development  of  Fraserburgh  during  the  last  thirty 
years — a  result  owing  in  part  to  the  advantages  of  its 
situation  with  reference  to  the  best  fishing  grounds  in 
the  North  Sea,  but  chiefly  due  to  the  skUl  and  per- 
severance with  which  the  harbour  has  been  enlarged, 
deepened,  and  improved.  There  is  now  not  only  a 
spacious  inner  harbour,  extending  over  an  area  of  20 
acres,  but  beyond  its  entrance  a  breakwater,  inside 
which  there  is  an  area  of  about  8  acres  of  sheltered 
water,  with  from  1  to  2  fathoms  at  low  tide,  where  the 
largest  class  of  fishing-boats  can  at  all  times  lie  water- 
borne  and  in  perfect  safety.  The  above-quoted  harbour 
returns  show  that  where  fishermen  are  supplied  -srith  a 
good  harbour  they  are  willing  to  pay  adequate  dues  for 
the  shelter  and  safety  which  it  enables  them  to  com- 
mand. ' 

The  harbour  is  managed  by  13  commissioners ;  and 
the  town,  as  a  burgh  of  barony,  is  governed  by  a  pro- 
vost (Lord  Saltoun),  a  baron  bailie,  14  councillors,  a 
dean  of  guOd,  and  a  burgh  fiscal.  In  1871  it  adopted 
the  General  Police  and  Improvement  Act  (Scotland)  of 
1862,  to  be  administered  by  an  elected  body  of  12  police 
commissioners.  The  municipal  constituencj'  numbered 
1050  in  1882.  Pop.  (1851)  3093,  (1861)  3472,  (1871) 
4268,  (1881)  6583,  of  whom  6529  were  in  the  police 
burgh. 

The  parish  of  Fraserburgh,  known  as  Philorth  or 
Faithlie  tUl  early  in  the  17th  century,  consists  of  a  main 
body  and  a  considerable  detached  district.  The  main 
body  is  bounded  N  by  the  Moray  Firth,  NE  by  Fraser- 
burgh Bay,  SE  and  S  by  Rathen,  SW  and  W  by 
Pitsligo.  Its  utmost  length,  from  AVNW  to  ESE,  is  3g 
miles ;  whilst  its  width,  from  NNE  to  WSW,  varies 
between  2J  and  3J  miles.  The  detached  district,  lying 
IJ  mile  SSW  of  the  main  body,  has  an  utmost  length 
and  breadth  of  2|  and  2|  miles  ;  it  is  bounded  NE  and 
E  by  Rathen,  S  by  Strichen,  SW  and  W  by  Aberdour 
(detached),  and  NW  by  Tyrie.  The  area  of  the  whole 
is  S667i  acres,  of  which  27471-  lie  detached,  258§  are 
foreshore,  and  41§  are  water.  The  northern  coast, 
extending  2J  miles  along  the  Moray  Firth,  is  low 
though  rocky,  but  rises  into  bold  headland  at  EiN- 
naird's  Head  (61  feet) ;  the  north-eastern,  extending 
2|  miles  along  Fraserburgh  Bay,  is  most  of  it  low  and 
sandy,  skirted  by  bent-covered  hillocks.  Fraserburgh 
Bay  measures  2J  miles  across  the  entrance,  from  Kin- 
naird's  Head  to  Cairnbulg  Point,  and  9  furlongs 
thence  to  its  inmost  recess  ;  on  a  fine  summer  day,  with 
a  fleet  of  vessels  riding  at  anchor  in  it,  it  presents  a 
charming  scene.  The  Water  of  Philorth  creeps  2g 
miles  north-north-eastward,  along  all  the  south-eastern 
border,  to  its  mouth  in  Fraserbm-gh  Bay ;  and  two 
burns,  draining  the  rest  of  the  main  body,  flow  north- 
ward and  north-eastward  to  the  sea.  The  smface, 
throughout  the  main  body,  rises  from  the  coast,  but  so 
slowly  as  to  appear  almost  flat,  and  attains  its  maximum 
altitude  in  the  Sinclair  Hills  (167  feet).  The  detached 
district  is  hillier,  attaining  315  feet  at  Mountsolie, 
whilst  the  summit  of  Mormond  Hill  (769  feet)  falls  just 
beyond  its  SE  corner.  Mica  slate,  granite,  limestone, 
and  ironstone  are  plentiful ;  and  there  are  several 
chalybeate  springs.  The  soil  in  many  parts  is  sandy 
and  light,  in  others  loamy  and  clayey ;  and  nearly  all 


FEEASGEAL 

the  land,  except  400  acres  of  plantations  and  200  of 
moss  in  the  iletaclied  portion,  is  arable.  Philorth 
House,  noticed  separately,  is  the  only  mansion  ;  and 
Lord  Saltoun  is  much  the  largest  proprietor,  2  others 
holding  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  6  of 
between  £100  and  £500,  22  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and 
54  of  from  £20  to  £50.  In  the  presbytery  of  Deer  and 
synod  of  Aberdeen,  this  parish  since  1877  has  been 
divided  into  Fraserburgh  proper  and  West  Church 
quoad  sacra  parish,  the  former  a  living  worth  £407.  A 
chapel  of  ease,  served  by  a  missionary,  stands  at  Tech- 
muiry  in  the  detached  portion,  5|  miles  SSW  of  the  tovra. 
Five  schools— Fraserburgh  public,  the  Girls'  Industrial, 
St  Peter's  Episcopalian,  Broadsea  General  Assembly,  and 
Techmuiry  public — with  respective  accommodation  for 
417,  233,  304,  77,  and  115  children,  had  (1881)  an  aver- 
age attendance  of  417,  233,  304,  77,  and  115,  and  grants  of 
£341,  6s.,  £207,  12s.,  £183,  19s.,  £70,  14s.  6d.,  and 
£33,  16s.  Valuation  (1855)  £12,073,  (1875)  £28,568, 
(1882)  £37,176,  16s.  9d.  Pop.  (1801)  2215,  (1821)  2831, 
(1841)3615,  (1861)  4511,  (1871)  5301,  (1881)  7596,  of 
•whom  54  were  on  board  vessels  in  the  harbour,  4304 
in  the  ecclesiastical  parish  of  Fraserburgh,  and  3238 
in  that  of  AVest  Church.— Ord  Sur.,  sh.  97,  1876. 

Freasgeal.     See  Feaisgill. 

Freeburn,  a  hamlet  in  Moy  and  Dalarossie  parish, 
Inverness-shire,  on  the  left  bank  of  Findhorn  river,  15  j 
miles  SE  of  Inverness,  and  1  j  mile  NNW  of  Findhorn 
Bridge.  It  has  an  inn  ;  and  fairs  are  held  at  it,  for 
cows,  on  the  Saturday  after  19  May  ;  for  lambs,  on  the 
Friday  after  12  August ;  for  cattle,  on  the  Monday  in 
August  after  Beauly,  the  Monday  after  the  third 
Tuesday  of  September,  and  the  Saturday  in  October 
after  Beauly. 

Freefield,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Rayne  parish, 
Aberdeenshire,  4i  miles  NE  of  Insch.  Its  plain  man- 
sion was  built  about  the  middle  of  last  centui-y,  has 
beautifully  wooded  grounds,  and  is  a  seat  of  Alexander 
Leith,  Esq.  of  Freefield  and  Glenkindie  (b.  1817  ;  sue. 
1859),  who  owns  8566  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at 
£4217  per  annum.  His  father.  Gen.  Sir  Alexander 
Leith,  K.C.B.,  was  a  distinguished  Peninsular  officer. 
—Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  86,  1876. 

Freeland,  an  estate,  -nith  a  mansion,  in  Forgandenny 
parish,  SE  Perthshire,  |  mile  SSE  of  Forgandenny 
station,  and  2|  miles  W  of  Bridge  of  Earn. 

Frenchland  Tower.    See  Moffat. 

Frendraught,  an  estate,  with  an  old  mansion,  in 
Forgue  parish,  NW  Aberdeenshire,  21  miles  SSE  of 
Forgue  church,  and  11  ENE  of  Huntly.  On  the  N 
side  of  the  house  is  still  a  fragment  of  the  older  tower, 
whose  basement  story  was  vaulted  with  stone,  the  three 
upper  floors  being  all  of  wood,  and  which,  one  October 
night  of  1630,  was  the  scene  of  the  tragedy  known  as 
the  '  Burning  of  Frendraught. '  Sir  James  Crichton, 
great-grandson  of  the  first  Lord  Ckichton,  chancellor 
of  Scotland,  about  the  close  of  the  15th  century  ob- 
tained the  lordship  of  Frendi-aught,  in  the  heart  of  the 
Gordon  country.  A  feud  between  his  descendants  and 
the  Gordons  (whose  chief  was  the  Marquis  of  Huntly) 
had  led  to  a  skirmish  on  1  Jan.  1630,  in  which 
Gordon  of  Rothiemay  was  slain  ;  and  this  affair  the 
Marquis  had  patched  up  by  desiring  Crichton  to  pay 
50,000  merks  to  Rothiemay's  widow.  Some  nine 
months  later  the  Marquis  again  was  called  upon  to  act 
as  arbiter,  this  time  between  Crichton  and  Leslie  of 
Pitcaple,  whose  son  had  been  wounded  in  another 
fray  ;  and  this  time  he  decided  in  Crichton's  favour. 
Leslie  rode  off  from  Bog  of  Gight  or  Gordon  Castle  with 
threats  of  vengeance ;  and  the  Marquis,  fearful  for 
Crichton's  safety,  sent  him  home  under  escort  of  his 
eldest  son,  young  Lord  Aboyne,  and  others — one  of 
them,  strangely  enough,  the  son  of  the  slaughtered 
Rothiemay.  'They  rode,' says  Spalding,  'without  in- 
terruption to  the  place  of  Frendraught,  without  sight 
of  Pitcaple  by  the  way.  Aboyne  took  his  leave  from 
the  laird,  but  upon  no  condition  would  he  and  his  lady 
suffer  him  to  go,  and  none  that  was  with  him,  that 
night,  but  earnestly  \irged  him  (though  against  his 


FEEDCHIE 

will)  to  bide.  They  were  well  entertained,  supped 
menily,  and  to  bed  went  joyfully.  The  Viscount  was 
laid  in  a  bed  in  the  old  tower  (going  off  the  hall),  and 
standing  upon  a  vault  wherein  was  a  round  hole,  de- 
vised of  old,  just  under  Aboyne's  bed.  Robert  Gordon, 
born  in  Sutherland,  his  servant,  and  English  Will,  his 
page,  were  both  laid  beside  him  in  the  same  cham- 
ber. The  Laird  of  Rothiemay,  with  some  servants,  waa 
laid  in  an  upper  chamber,  just  above  Aboyne's.  ,  .  . 
Thus,  being  all  at  rest,  about  midnight  this  dolorous 
tower  took  fire  in  so  sudden  and  furious  a  manner  that 
the  noble  Viscount,  the  Laird  of  Rothiemay,  English 
Will,  CoUn  Ivat,  and  other  two,  being  six  in  number, 
were  cruelly  burned  and  tormented  to  death,  without 
help  or  relief.  Sutherland  Robert,  being  in  the  Vis- 
count's chamber,  escaped  this  fire  with  the  life.  George 
Chalmers  and  Captain  Rollick,  being  in  the  third  room, 
escaped  also  this  fire  ;  and,  as  was  said,  Aboyne  might 
have  saved  himself  also  if  he  would  have  gone  out  of 
doors,  which  he  would  not  do,  but  suddenly  ran  upstairs 
to  Rothiemay's  chamber  and  wakened  him  to  rise  ;  and, 
as  he  is  wakening  him,  the  timber  passage  and  lofting 
of  the  chamber  hastily  takes  fire,  so  that  none  of  them 
could  win  down  stairs  again  ;  so  they  turned  to  a  win- 
dow looking  to  the  close,  where  they  piteously  cried 
many  times,  "Help!  help!  for  God's  cause."  The 
Laird  and  the  Lady,  with  their  servants,  all  seeing  and 
hearing  the  woeful  crying,  made  no  help  nor  manner  of 
helping,  which  they  perceiving  cried  oftentimes  mercy 
at  God's  hands  for  their  sins,  syne  clasped  in  each 
other's  arms,  and  cheerfully  suffered  their  martyrdom.' 
The  Marquis  of  Huntly,  in  the  belief  that  the  fire 
was  no  accident,  but  that  gunpowder  and  combustibles 
had  been  piled  in  the  vault  below,  instituted  pro- 
ceedings ;  and  a  commission,  sent  to  inspect  the  pre- 
mises, reported  that  the  fire  must  have  been  raised 
designedly  and  from  within.  For  a  short  time  im- 
prisoned but  never  brought  to  trial,  Crichton  on  his 
part  sought  to  fasten  the  crime  upon  Pitcaple,  one  of 
whose  kinsmen,  John  Meldrum,  was  actually  hanged 
and  quartered  as  the  perpetrator.  One  thing  seems 
certain,  that  Crichton  had  court  influence  in  his  favour, 
Charles  I.  desiring  to  counterbalance  Huntly's  feudal 
sway ;  and  in  Crichton's  own  lifetime,  his  eldest  son, 
James,  was  created  Viscount  Frendraught  (1642).  The 
title  expired  with  the  fourth  Viscount  in  1698  ;  and  the 
lands  of  Frendraught  now  belong  to  the  widow  of  the  late 
Alex.  Morison,  Esq.  of  Bognie,  whose  ancestor  married 
the  widow  of  the  second  Viscount. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  86, 
1876.  See  vol.  ii.  of  Chambers'  Domestic  AnnaJs  (1858) ; 
Sir  A.  Leith  Hay's  Castellated  Architecture  of  Aherdeen- 
shire  (1849) ;  vol.  vi.,  pp.  209-213,  of  Hill  Burton's 
History  of  Scotland  (ed.  1876)  ;  and,  for  the  fine  old 
ballad,  '  The  Fire  of  Frendraught, '  Prof.  Ay toun's 
Ballads  of  Scotland  (1861). 

Freswiok,  a  townsliip,  a  mansion,  and  a  bay  in 
Canisbay  parish,  Caithness.  The  township,  near  the 
coast,  4  miles  S  of  John  o'  Groat's  House,  and  12  N  of 
Wick,  has  a  girls'  public  school,  and  fairs  on  the  second 
Tuesday  of  February  and  of  December.  Freswick  House, 
on  the  SW  shore  of  the  bay,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Gill 
Burn,  1  mile  SE  of  the  school,  is  the  property  of  Thom- 
son-Sinclair of  DuKEEATH.  John  o'  Gkoat's  Hottse 
and  BucHOLiE  Castle  are  on  the  estate.  Freswick  Bay, 
measuring  IJ  mUe  across  the  entrance  between  Skirsa 
and  Ness  Heads,  and  J  mile  thence  to  its  inmost  recess, 
has  a  half-moon  form,  and  lies  completely  exposed  to 
the  K—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  116,  1878. 

Freuch  or  Fraoch.     See  Claig. 

Freuchie,  a  loch  in  detached  portions  of  Dull  and 
Kenmore  parishes,  Perthshire,  in  Glenquaich,  IJ  mile 
W  of  Amulree.  Lying  880  feet  above  sea-level,  it  has 
an  utmost  length  and  breadth  of  1  j  and  3J  furlongs ; 
sends  off  to  the  E  the  river  Braan  ;  and  contains  small, 
lively  trout,  with  far  too  many  pike.  Glenquaich 
Lodge,  a  shooting-box  of  the  Earl  of  Breadalbane,  is  on 
its  south-western  shore.— OrcZ.  Sur.,  47,  1869. 

Freuchie,  a  village  near  the  E  border  of  Falkland 
parish,  Fife,  1|  mile  NNW  of  Falkland  Road  station, 

61 


FREW 

and  2  miles  E  by  S  of  Falkland  town.  A  quaint  old 
place,  ■with  narrow  winding  streets,  small  courts,  and 
bullet-paved  closes,  it  strikingly  represents  the  times 
when  folks  travelled  only  on  foot  or  on  horseback,  and 
when  all  goods  were  conveyed  by  pack-horses ;  and  it 
anciently  lay  in  such  relation  to  the  precincts  of  Falk- 
land, that  disgi'aced  courtiers  were  sent  hither  on  their 
dismissal,  whence  the  proverbial  saying,  '  Go  to 
Freuchie.'  It  has  a  post  office  under  Ladybank,  a 
branch  bank  of  the  British  Linen  Co.,  an  hotel,  a 
power-loom  linen  factory,  an  Established  church,  a 
United  Presbyterian  church,  and  a  public  school.  The 
Established  church,  built  in  1875  at  a  cost  of  £1100, 
contains  400  sittings,  and  in  1880  was  raised  to  qzioad 
sacra  status  ;  the  IJnited  Presbyterian  church  contains 
450  sittings.  Pop.  of  village  (1841)  713,  (1861)  961, 
(1871)  1195,  (1881)  1059  ;  of  qiioad  sacra  parish  (1881) 
im.—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  40,  1867. 

Frew.    See  Ford  of  Frew. 

Friardykes,  a  place  in  Stenton  parish,  Haddington- 
shire, the  site  of  a  cell  of  Melrose  Abbey,  used  for 
rusticating  refractory  monks. 

Friars  Brae,  an  eminence  in  Linlithgow  parish,  on 
the  S  side  of  the  town.  It  was  anciently  crowned  by  a 
Carmelite  friary,  founded  in  1290,  and  dedicated  to  the 
Virgin. 

Friars  Carse,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Dunscore 
parish,  Dumfriesshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Nith, 
2  mUes  SSE  of  Auldgirth  station,  and  6^  NNW  of 
Dumfries.  It  was  the  seat,  in  pre-Reformation  times, 
of  a  cell  of  Melrose  Abbey  ;  and  in  the  avenue  leading 
to  the  mansion  are  a  number  of  antique  sculptured 
stones,  believed  to  have  belonged  thereto.  Passing  at 
the  Reformation  to  the  Kirkpatricks,  then  the  pro- 
prietors of  EUisland,  it  went  in  1634  to  the  Maxwells 
of  Tinwald,  afterwards  to  the  Riddels  of  Gleuriddel, 
and  later  to  Dr  Crichton,  who  bequeathed  it  to 
found  the  Crichton  Institution  at  Dumfries.  Built, 
about  1774,  on  a  piece  of  rising  ground,  round  which 
the  Kith  makes  a  graceful  curve,  it  often  was  visited 
by  Robert  Burns  during  his  three  years'  tenancy 
of  Ellisland.  Here  he  foregathered  with  'iine,  fat, 
fodgel '  Grose,  a  brother  antiquary  of  Captain  Riddel's  ; 
and  here  he  acted  as  arbiter  in  the  great  Bacchanalian 
tourney  of  the  JVhistle.  '  As  the  authentic  prose  his- 
tory,'says  Burns,  'of  the  JFliisilc  is  curious,  I  shall 
here  give  it.  In  the  train  of  Anne  of  Denmark  there 
came  over  a  Danish  gentleman  of  gigantic  stature  and 
great  prowess,  and  a  matchless  champion  of  Bacchus. 
He  had  a  little  ebony  whistle,  which  at  the  commence- 
ment of  the  orgies  he  laid  on  the  table,  and  whoever 
was  the  last  able  to  blow  it  was  entitled  to  carry  it  off 
as  a  trophy  of  victory.  After  many  overthrows  on  the 
part  of  the  Scots,  the  Dane  was  encountered  by  Sir 
Robert  Lawrie  of  Maxwelton,  who,  after  three  days' 
and  three  nights'  hard  contest,  left  the  Scandinavian 
under  the  table, 

*  "  And  blew  on  the  whistle  his  requiem  shrilL" 

Sir  Walter,  son  to  Sir  Robert,  afterwards  lost  the 
Whistle  to  Walter  Riddel  of  Glenriddel ;  and  on 
Friday,  16  Oct.  1790,  at  Friars  Carse,  the  Whistle  was 
once  more  contended  for  by  Sir  Robert  of  Maxwelton, 
Robert  Riddel  of  Glenriddel,  and  Alexander  Fergusson 
of  Craigdarroch,  which  last  gentleman  carried  off  the 
hard-won  honours  of  the  field.'  Allan  Cunningham 
adds  that  '  the  Bard  himself,  who  drank  bottle  and 
bottle  about,  seemed  quite  disposed  to  take  up  the  con- 
queror when  the  day  dawned.'  Another  of  his  poems 
was  written  in  Friars  Carse  Hermitage,  which,  now  a 
ruin,  was  then  '  a  snug  little  stone  building,  measuring 
lOJ  feet  by  8,  and  supplied  with  a  window  and  fire- 
place. Captain  Riddel  gave  him  a  key,  so  that  he  could 
go  in  and  out  as  he  pleased.'  An  autograph  copy  of  the 
JVhistle  is  in  the  Thomhill  Museum ;  and  the  pane  of  glass 
from  the  Hermitage  on  which  Burns  wrote  the  opening 
lines  of  the  ode  is  in  the  possession  of  Arch.  Fnllarton, 
V.sa.—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  9,  1863.  See  chap.  i.  of  William 
M'Dowall's  Burns  in  Dumfriesshire  (Edinb.  1870). 
6? 


FEUIN  WATER 

Friars  Croft.    See  Dttnbae. 

Friars  Dubb.    See  Bervie. 

Friars  Glen,  a  sequestered  glen  in  Fordoun  parish, 
Kincardineshire,  at  the  base  of  Strathfinella  Hill, 
beyond  Drumtochty  Castle.  A  small  Carmelite  friary 
here  is  still  represented  by  foundations. 

FriecMan.    See  Ikch  Feiechlajt. 

Friockheim,  a  modern  village  in  Kirkden  parish, 
Forfarshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  Lunan  Water,  with  a 
station  on  the  Arbroath  and  Forfar  section  of  the  Cale- 
donian railway,  6J  miles  NW  by  W  of  Arbroath  and 
If  mile  ESE  of  Guthrie  Junction.  About  the  year 
1830  operatives  connected  with  textile  manufactures 
were  induced  to  feu  houses  at  a  cheap  rate  on  the  estate 
of  Middleton ;  and  Friockheim  acquired  material  in- 
crease of  importance,  first  by  the  Arbroath  and  Forfar 
railway  (1S39)  placing  it  on  a  grand  thoroughfare  be- 
tween these  towns,  next  by  the  Aberdeen  railway 
(1850)  making  it  a  centre  of  transit  of  all  places  N  of 
the  'lay.  It  has  a  post  office,  with  money  order, 
savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  departments,  a  branch  of 
the  North  of  Scotland  Bank,  4  insm-ance  agencies,  a 
police  station,  gas-works,  a  cemetery,  an  assembly  hall, 
a  library-  and  reading-room,  a  horticultural  society,  and 
cattle,  sheep,  and  hiring  fairs  on  26  May  or  the  Thurs- 
day after,  on  the  Monday  in  July  after  Arbroath  fair, 
and  on  22  November  or  the  Thursday  after.  The  quoaxl 
sacra  parish,  constituted  in  1870,  is  in  the  presbytery 
of  Arbroath  and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns ;  the 
stipend  is  £120,  with  a  manse.  Its  church,  built  in 
1836  and  enlarged  in  1840,  is  a  neat  edifice,  with  a 
steeple  and  500  sittings.  'There  are  also  a  Free  church 
and  an  Evangelical  Union  chapel ;  and  a  public  school, 
with  accommodation  for  250  children,  had  (1881)  an 
average  attendance  of  210,  and  a  grant  of  £183,  15s. 
Pop.  of  village  (1841)  805,  (1861)  1239,  (1871)  1119, 
(1881)  1098 ;  of?,  s.  parish  (1871)  1432,  (1881)  1501,  of 
whom  360  were  in  Inverkeilor  and  1141  in  Eirkden. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  57,  1868. 

Frogden,  a  farm  in  Linton  parish,  Roxburghshire. 
A  spot  on  it,  marked  with  five  or  six  upright  stones  ia 
circular  arrangement,  is  called  the  Tryste,  and  was  a 
place  of  muster  in  the  old  times  for  Border  forays  into 
England. 

Froon.    See  FRimJ. 

Frostly,  a  burn  in  Teviothead  parish,  Roxburghshire, 
rising,  as  Linhope  Burn,  close  to  the  Castleton  border, 
at  an  altitude  of  14S0  feet,  and  running  5  miles  north- 
north-westward,  along  a  narrow  glen,  till,  after  a  descent 
of  900  feet,  it  falls  into  the  Teviot  just  below  Teviot- 
head church.— Orrf.  Sur.,  sh.  17,  1864. 

Fruchie.    See  Freuchie. 

Fruid  Water,  an  upland  bum  in  Tweedsmuir  parish, 
SW  Peeblesshire,  rising  close  to  the  Dumfriesshire  bor- 
der, at  an  altitude  of  2500  feet,  on  the  N  side  of  Hart- 
fell  (2651).  Thence  it  runs  8  miles  north-north-west- 
ward, mainly  along  a  beautiful  glen,  flanked  by  high 
green  hills,  till,  after  a  total  descent  of  2626  feet,  it 
falls  into  the  Tweed  1^  mile  SSW  of  Tweedsmuir  church. 
Vestiges  of  an  ancient  Border  peel  are  on  its  right  bank 
at  Fruid  farm,  3 J  miles  from  its  mouth. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  16,  1864. 

Fruin  Water,  a  troutful  stream  of  W  Dumbartonshire, 
rising  on  Maol  an  Fheidh  (1934  feet),  at  an  altitude  of 
1500,  in  the  NW  of  Row  parish,  2  miles  NE  of  the 
head  of  Gare  Loch,  and  thence  winding  12  J  miles  south- 
eastward and  east-north-eastward,  through  or  along  the 
borders  of  Row  and  Luss  parishes,  till  it  falls  into  Loch 
Lomond,  nearly  opposite  the  lower  end  of  Inchmurrin 
island  and  2J  miles  N  by  W  of  Balloch  pier.  Its  upper 
glen,  named  after  it  Glenfruin,  is  flanked,  on  the  NE 
side,  by  Ben  Chaorach  (2338  feet),  Ben  Tharsxtinn 
(2149),  and  Balcnock  (2092),  a  mountain  range  that 
figures  grandly  in  the  sky-line  of  the  views  from  the 
upper  waters  of  the  Firth  of  Clyde,  and  on  the  SW  side 
by  the  Row  hills  (1183)  ;  whilst  the  last  4  miles  of  its 
course  are  through  a  low  and  luxuriant  plain.  Dumfin 
(200  feet),  an  eminence  here,  3  miles  ENE  of  Helens- 
burgh, is  crowned  by  traces  of  a  '  Fingalian '  fort ;  and 


FDDA 


FYNE 


on  the  right  or  opposite  banlc  of  tlie  stream  stands  the 
ruined  castle  of  Bannachra,  where  in  July  1592  Sir 
Humphry  Colqiilioun,  tlie  Laird  of  Luss,  was  besieged 
by  an  invading  party  of  Macfarlanes  and  Macgregors. 
The  loophole  still  is  shown  through  which  he  was  shot 
dead  by  an  arrow,  guided  by  the  treacherous  torch  of 
one  of  his  own  servants.  At  Strone,  3  miles  ESE  of 
Garclochhead,  was  fought  the  bloody  clan  conflict  of 
Gleufruin  in  1603.  Early  in  that  year  Allaster  Mac- 
gregor  of  Glenstra,  followed  by  400  men,  chiefly  of  his 
own  clan,  but  including  also  some  of  the  clans  Cameron 
and  Anverich,  armed  with  '  halberschois,  pow-aixes, 
twa-handit  swordis,  bowis  and  arrowis,  and  with  hag- 
butis  and  pistoletis,'  advanced  into  the  territory  of  Luss. 
Alexander  Colquhoun,  under  his  royal  commission, 
granted  the  year  before  in  consequence  of  the  Macgre- 
gors' outrage  at  Glenfinlas,  had  raised  a  force  which 
some  writers  state  to  have  amoxinted  to  300  horse  and 
500  foot.  '  On  7  Feb.  the  Macgregors, '  says  Mr  Fraser, 
'  were  in  Glenfruin  in  two  divisions,  one  of  them  at  the 
head  of  the  glen,  and  the  other  in  ambuscade  near  the 
farm  of  Strone,  at  a  hollow  or  ravine  called  the  Crate. 
The  Colquhouns  came  into  Glenfruin  from  the  Luss 
side,  which  is  opposite  Strone — probably  by  Glen  Luss 
and  Glen  Mackurn.  Alexander  Colquhoun  pushed  on 
his  forces  in  order  to  get  through  the  glen  before  en- 
countering the  Macgregors;  but,  aware  of  his  approach, 
Allaster  Macgregor  also  pushed  forward  one  division  of 
his  forces  and  entered  at  the  head  of  the  glen  in  time 
to  prevent  his  enemy  from  emerging  from  the  upper  end 
of  the  glen,  whilst  his  brother,  John  Macgregor,  with 
the  division  of  his  clan,  which  lay  in  ambuscade,  by  a 
detour  took  the  rear  of  the  Colquhouns,  which  prevented 
their  retreat  down  the  glen  without  fighting  their  way 
through  that  section  of  the  Macgregors  who  had  got  in 
their  rear.  The  success  of  the  stratagem  by  which  the 
Colquhouns  were  thus  placed  between  two  fires  seems  to 
be  the  only  way  of  accounting  for  the  terrible  slaughter 
of  the  Colquhouns  and  the  much  less  loss  of  the  Mac- 
gregors. The  Colquhouns  soon  became  unable  to  main- 
tain their  ground,  and,  falling  into  a  moss  at  the  farm 
of  Auchingaich,  they  were  thrown  into  disorder,  and 
made  a  hasty  and  disorderly  retreat,  which  proved  even 
more  disastrous  than  the  conflict,  for  they  had  to  force 
their  way  through  the  men  led  by  John  Macgregor, 
whilst  they  were  pressed  behind  by  Allaster,  who, 
reuniting  the  two  divisions  of  his  army,  continued  the 
pm-suit."  All  who  fell  into  the  victors'  hands  were  in- 
stantly slain ;  and  the  chief  of  the  Colquhouns  barely 
escaped  with  his  life  after  his  horse  had  been  killed 
under  him.  Of  the  Colquhouns  140  were  slain,  and 
many  more  wounded,  among  them  a  number  of  women 
and  children.  "When  the  pursuit  was  over,  the  work  of 
plunder  commenced.  Hundreds  of  live  stock  were 
carried  off,  and  many  of  the  houses  of  the  tenantry  were 
burned  to  the  ground.  The  reckoning,  however,  was 
speedy,  for  on  3  April  the  name  of  Gregor  or  Macgregor 
was  for  ever  abolished  by  Act  of  the  Privy  Council ;  and 
by  2  March  1604  thirty-five  of  the  clan  Gregor  had 
been  executed,  among  them  Allaster  himself. — Ord. 
Sur.,  shs.  38,  30,  1871-66.  See  William  Fraser's  adefs 
of  Colquhoun  and  tlicir  Country  (Edinb.  1869). 

Fuda,  a  small  fertile  island  of  Barra  parish.  Outer 
Hebrides,  Inverness-shire,  J  mile  NE  of  the  nearest 
point  of  Barra  island.  It  exhibits  a  number  of  granite 
veins,  impregnated  with  iron.  Of  its  6  inhabitants,  in 
1871,  4  were  males ;  of  the  same  number,  in  1881,  5 
were  females. 

Fuinafort,  a  place  in  Eilfinichen  and  Eilvickeon 
parish,  Mull  island,  Argyllshire,  6  miles  from  Bonessan. 
It  has  a  post  office  under  Oban. 

Fuirdstone,  an  ancient  tower  on  Wester  Balnabriech 
farm,  in  Caraldston  parish,  Forfarshire.  Demolished 
early  in  the  present  century,  it  formerly  gave  its  name 
to  the  parish. 

Fulden.     See  Foulden. 

Fulgae,  a  lofty  skerry  of  Shetland,  on  the  NW  coast 
of  Papa  Stour  island.  It  rises  almost  murally  from  the 
sea,  and  is  pierced  with  caverns. 


FuUarton.    See  Maryton. 

FuUarton.     See  Tollcross. 

FuUarton,  an  Ayrshire  burgh  of  barony  within  the 
bounds  of  the  parliamentary  burgh  of  Irvine,  but  lying 
in  Dundonald  parish,  on  the  left  or  opposite  bank  of 
the  river  Irvine.  With  Irvine  it  is  connected  by  a 
handsome  stone  four-arch  bridge  of  1746,  and  from  1690 
to  1823  it  was  supposed  to  belong  to  Irvine  parish, 
having  in  the  former  of  those  years  been  technically 
united  thereto  ;  but,  an  appeal  being  made  to  the  Court 
of  Session  in  1823,  it  was  found  to  have  legally  belonged 
all  along  to  Dundonald.  An  Established  church,  built 
as  a  chapel  of  ease  in  1836  at  a  cost  of  £2000,  contains  900 
sittings,  and  in  1874  was  raised  to  quoad  sacra  status, 
its  parish  being  in  Ayr  presbytery  and  the  sjiiod  of 
Glasgow  and  Ayr.  There  are  also  a  Free  church  and  a 
public  school.  See  Irvine  and  Dundonald.  Pop.  of 
parish  (1881)  4009.— OrtZ.  Sur.,  sh.  22,  1865. 

FuUarton  House,  a  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Portland  in 
Dundonald  parish,  Ayrshire,  IJ  mile  ESE  of  Troon.  The 
estate  around  it  tielonged  to  the  Foulertouns  or  FuUar- 
tons  of  that  ilk  from  the  13th  century  till  1805,  when 
it  was  sold  to  the  third  Duke  of  Portland  by  Col.  Wil- 
liam FuUarton  (1754-1808).  This  gallant  soldier  and 
author,  immortalised  in  Burns's  Vision,  was  born  at 
FuUarton  House,  which  was  built  by  his  father  in  1745. 
It  has  since  been  twice  enlarged  by  the  addition  of 
wings,  and  what  was  once  the  back  is  now  the  front — a 
great  improvement,  any  sacrifice  of  architectural  grace 
being  more  than  compensated  by  the  fact  that  the  house 
now  faces  the  Firth  of  Clyde  and  isle  of  Arran.  That 
Louis  Napoleon  stayed  here  in  1839  is  false ;  but  the 
fourth  Duke's  third  son,  the  Conservative  leader  and 
sportsman.  Lord  George  Bentinck  (1802-48),  passed 
much  of  his  boyhood  at  FuUarton.  John  William 
Arthur  Charles  James  Cavendish  Bentinck,  present  and 
sixth  Duke  since  1716  (b.  1857 ;  sue.  1879),  holds 
24,787  acres  in  Ayrshire,  valued  at  £60,533  per  annum, 
including  £10,708  for  harbour  works,  and  £16,199  for 
minerals. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  22,  1865.  See  LAKGWELLand 
the  Eev.  J.  Kirkwood's  Troon  and  Dundonald  (3d  ed., 
Kilmar.,  1881). 

Fulton.     See  Bedrule. 

Fulwood  Moss,  a  former  peat-moss  in  Houston  parish, 
Renfrewshire,  a  little  W  of  Houston  station,  and  ?A  miles 
NW  of  Paisley.  Extending  over  98  acres,  it  was  re- 
claimed by  the  Glasgow  Corporation  in  1879-80  at  a 
cost  of  £4539,  no  fewer  than  1882  waggons,  or  fully 
12,000  tons,  of  Glasgow  rubbish  being  shot  into  the 
moss.  The  reclamation,  besides  giving  work  to  300  of 
the  unemployed,  has  proved  a  financial  success,  good 
crops  of  potatoes  having  already  been  raised  from  what 
was  previously  worthless  ground. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  30, 
1866. 

Funtack,  a  burn  in  Moy  and  Dalarossie  parish,  Inver- 
ness-shire, winding  2|  miles  east-south-eastward  along 
Strathdearn,  from  Loch  Moy  to  the  river  Findhorn. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  84,  1876. 

Funzie,  a  bay  of  Fetlar  island,  Shetland,  the  only  ling- 
fishing  station  in  the  island.  It  is  overlooked  by  re- 
mains of  a  pre-Eeformation  chapel. 

Furnace,  a  post-ofSce  village  in  Inverary  parish,  Ar- 
gyllshu'c,  on  the  shore  of  Loch  Fyne,  in  the  mouth  of 
Glenleacainn,  8  miles  SSW  of  Inverary  town.  It  took 
its  name  from  an  iron  smelting  work  of  the  early  part 
of  the  present  century,  but  it  now  depends  on  the  great 
granite  quarry  of  DtTN  Leaoainn,  started  in  1841,  and 
rendered  famous  by  its  'monster  blasts'  of  Oct.  1871, 
Sept.  1876,  and  Sept.  1880.  In  the  glen,  a  little  way 
above  the  village,  is  a  gunpowder  manufactory,  consist- 
ing of  small  houses  scattered  over  a  considerable  area. 

Fushiebridge,  a  village  in  Borthwick  parish,  Edin- 
burghshire, near  the  left  bank  of  Gore  Water,  1  mile  S 
by  E  of  Gorebridge.  Across  the  stream  lies  Fushiebridge 
station  on  the  Waverley  route  of  the  North  British,  12j 
miles  SSE  of  Edinburgh. 

Fyne,  a  mountain  rivulet  and  a  large  sea-loch  in  ArgyU- 
shire.  The  rivulet,  rising  on  the  south-western  skirts 
of  Benloy,  a  little  NW  of  the  meeting-point  with 

63 


rZRISH 

Dumbarton  and  Perth  shires,  runs  6J  miles  south-south- 
westward,  along  a  wild  Highland  glen,  called  from  it 
Glenfyne,  and  falls  into  the  head  of  the  sea-loch  7  fur- 
longs NE  of  Cairndow. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  46,  45,  37, 
1876. 

The  sea-loch  first  strikes  27  miles  south-westward ;  then 
makes  a  sudden  expansion,  and  sends  off  to  the  N  the 
considerable  bay  of  Loch  GiLP,  leading  into  the  Crinan 
Canal ;  and  then  strikes  13J  mUes  south-by-eastward, 
till,  opposite  Ardlamont  Point,  it  merges  in  the  Sound 
of  Bute,  the  Kyles  of  Bute  on  the  left,  and  Kilbrennan 
Sound,  aU  passing  into  the  Firth  of  Clyde.  Its  breadth 
is  If  fui'long  near  Cairndow,  If  mile  at  Inverary  Ferry, 
1  mile  near  Strachur,  2  miles  at  Lachlan  Bay,  IJ  mUe 
at  Otter  Ferry,  4J  miles  at  KUfinan  Bay,  2g  miles  at 
Barmore  Island,  and  5  mUes  at  Ardlamont  Point.  Its 
screens,  from  head  to  foot,  show  great  variety  of  both 
shore  and  height,  and  present  many  scenes  of  singular 
force  and  beauty  ;  but  as  a  whole  they  offer  little  of  the 
grandeur  and  romance  that  characterise  the  screens  of 
many  others  of  the  great  Highland  sea-lochs.  Around 
the  head,  and  downwards  past  Inverary,  they  have  strik- 
ing forms  and  lofty  altitudes,  attaining  2955  feet  in 
Ben-an-Lochain  and  2557  m  Ben  Bheula  ;  round 
Inverary,  too,  they  have  great  masses  of  wood,  and  some 
strongly  picturesc[ue  features  of  hill  and  glen  and  park. 
In  most  of  the  reaches  thence  they  have  much  verdure, 
some  wood,  and  numerous  hUls,  but  rarely  exhibit 
stronger  features  of  landscape  than  simply  the  laeautif  iil ; 
towards  the  entrance,  however,  they  combine,  into  great 
variety  and  magnificence,  with  the  islands  of  Bute  and 
Arran.  The  waters  have  been  notable  from  time  imme- 
morial for  both  the  prime  quality  and  the  great  abun- 
dance of  their  herrings.  One  of  the  twenty-five  fishery 
districts  of  Scotland  has  its  headquarters  at  Inverary  ; 
and  two  others  have  their  headquarters  at  respectively 
Rothesay  and  Campbeltown. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  37, 
29,  1876-73.  See  pp.  124-132  of  Dorothy  Wordsworth's 
Tour  in  Scotland  (ed.  by  Princ.  Shairp,  1874). 

Fyrish  or  Cnoc  Fyrish,  a  wooded  hiU  in  Alness  parish, 
Eoss-shire,  culminating  1 J  mile  ISfNW  of  Novar  House  at 
an  altitude  of  1483  feet  above  sea-level.  It  seems  to  have 
been  used  in  ancient  times  as  a  station  for  beacon  fires ; 
and  is  crowned  by  an  artificial  structure  of  upright  stone 
blocks  in  rude  form  of  an  Indian  temple. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  93,  1881. 

Fyvie,  a  parish  of  Aberdeenshire,  containing  "Wood- 
head  village,  2J  furlongs  from  the  left  bank  of  the  river 
Ythan,  and  3  miles  E  by  S  of  Fjrvie  station  on  the 
Banff  branch  of  the  Great  North  of  Scotland  railway, 
this  station  being  7  miles  SSE  of  Tui-riff,  and  31i  NNW 
of  Aberdeen.  In  1673  Alexander,  thii-d  Earl  of  Dun- 
fermline, obtained  a  charter,  erecting  the  lordship  of 
Fyvie  into  a  free  burgh  of  barony,  with  a  tolbooth  and 

market  cross,  at  which  should  be  held  three  annual 
fairs.  With  this  burgh  of  Fyvie,  Woodhead  has  been 
dentified ;  and  its  dilapidated  cross  was  rebuilt  in  1846, 
ome  years  before  which  date  the  tolbooth — long  a 
dwelling-house — had  been  pulled  down.  The  fairs  have 
been  discontinued,  but  a  cattle  market  is  held  on  the 
third  Thursday  of  every  month  at  Fyvie  station,  and  on 
the  second  Monday  of  every  month  at  Eothie  station, 
also  in  Fwie  parish,  3^  miles  to  the  SW.  Fyvie  besides 
has  a  post  ofiice,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and 
railway  telegraph  departments,  a  branch  of  the  Aber- 
deen Town  and  County  Bank,  3  insurance  agencies, 
and  a  horticultural  association. 

The  parish  is  bounded  N  and  NE  by  Monquhitter,  E 
by  Methlick,  SE  by  Tarves,  S  by  Meldrum,  SW  by 
Daviot  and  Eayne,  W  by  Auchterless,  and  NW  by 
Turriff.  Its  utmost  length,  from  NE  to  SW,  is  10| 
miles ;  its  breadth  varies  between  7  furlongs  and  6^ 
miles;  and  its  area  is  29,650  acres,  of  which  64|  are 
water.  From  Towie  Castle,  at  the  NW  corner  of  the 
parish,  the  Ythan,  a  small  stream  here,  first  traces  2 
miles  of  the  boundary  with  Auchterless,  next  winds  8J 
miles  south-eastward  and  north-eastward  through  the 
interior,  and  lastly  flows  2f  miles  east-by-northward 
along  the  Methlick  border.  It  receives  in  its  course  a 
64 


FYVIE 

good  many  little  afBuents,  and  divides  the  parish  into 
two  pretty  equal  parts.  Where,  below  Gight  Castle,  it 
passes  off  into  MethUck,  the  surface  declines  to  88  feet 
above  sea-level,  thence  rising  south-westward  to  499 
feet  at  the  Hill  of  Blairfowl,  691  near  Stoneyfield,  629 
near  Waulkmill,  and  700  on  the  Eayne  border  ;  north- 
westward to  466  near  MonkshUl,  587  near  Gouidas,  and 
585  at  Deers  Hill.  The  leading  rocks  are  greywacke 
and  slate  in  the  SW,  Old  Eed  sandstone  over  a  small 
portion  of  the  NW,  and  elsewhere  greenstone  or  basalt, 
often  intersected  by  veins  of  quartz,  calcareous  spar, 
hematite,  etc.  The  soil  along  the  banks  of  the  Ythan  is 
a  lightish  loam  of  great  fertility,  especially  in  the  part 
called  the  Howe  of  Fyvie ;  and  in  other  parts  is  ex- 
tremely various — gravelly,  mossy,  etc.  Fully  four- 
sevenths  of  the  entire  area  are  in  tillage,  one-fifteenth  is 
under  wood,  one-tenth  is  pasture,  and  the  rest  is  either 
moss  or  heath.  Founded  by  Fergus,  Earl  of  Buchan,  in 
1179  for  Benedictines  of  Tiron,  and  subordinate  to 
Arbroath  Abbey,  St  Mary's  priory  stood  in  a  meadow 
between  the  Ythan  and  the  parish  church,  a  cross,  on  a 
base  of  hewn  stones,  surmounting  a  rough  round  cairn, 
having  been  erected  in  1868  on  the  site  of  its  church, 
which  was  buDt  by  Prior  Mason  in  1470.  Gight 
Castle,  on  the  Ythan,  towards  the  eastern  extremity  of 
the  parish,  is  an  interesting  ruin,  noticed  separately ; 
and  a  ruined  mill,  IJ  mile  NE  of  Fyvie  Castle,  was  the 
scene  of  the  ballad  of  Mill  o'  Tifty's  Annie,  or  Agnes 
Smith,  who  died  in  1678.  On  the  outskirts  of  St  John's 
Well  farm  are  remains  of  a  cairn,  Cairnchedly,  which 
has  yielded  a  number  of  small  earthen  urns ;  and,  to  the 
NE  of  the  Castle,  Montrose,  in  Oct.  1644,  was  nearly 
surprised  by  Argyll  with  a  greatly  superior  force — an 
episode  known  as  the  '  Skirmish  of  Fyvie. '  Fyvie 
Castle,  on  the  Ythan's  left  bank,  J  mile  NE  of  Fyvie 
station,  dates  from  remote  antiquity,  it  or  a  predecessor 
having  received  a  visit  from  Edward  I.  of  England  in 
1296.  It  then  was  a  royal  seat,  and  such  it  continued 
till  1380,  when  the  Earl  of  Carrick  (later  Eobert  III.) 
made  it  over  to  his  cousin.  Sir  James  de  Lindsay.  From 
him  it  passed  in  1397  to  Sir  Henry  Preston,  his  brother- 
in-law,  and  from  him  about  1433  to  the  Meldrums,  who 
sold  it  in  1596  to  Sir  Alexander  Seton,  an  eminent 
lawyer,  created  first  Earl  of  Dunfermline  in  1606.  The 
fourth  and  last  Earl  being  outlawed  in  1690,  his  forfeited 
estate  was  purchased  from  the  Crown  in  1726  by 
William,  second  Earl  of  Aberdeen,  whose  descendant, 
the  present  proprietor,  Alexander  Henry  Gordon,  Esq. 
(b.  1813  ;  sue.  1880),  holds  11,700  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £8741  per  annum.  The  Fyvie  Castle  of  to- 
day is  a  stately  chateau -like  pile  erected  at  various 
periods,  from  the  15th  on  to  the  18th  century ;  and 
stands  in  the  midst  of  a  finely-wooded  park,  with  an 
artificial  lake  (^  mile x  J  furl.).  Other  mansions  are 
Eothie-Norman  and  Kintroon,  and,  in  all,  7  proprie- 
tors hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards, 
3  of  between  £100  and  £500,  and  9  of  from  £20  to  £50. 
In  the  presbytery  of  Turriff  and  synod  of  Aberdeen, 
Fyvie  comprises  chief  part  of  Millbres  q^wad  sacra 
parish,  and  itself  is  a  living  worth  £369.  The  church, 
originally  dedicated  to  St  Peter,  stands  near  the  left 
bank  of  the  Ythan,  1|  mile  SE  of  Fyvie  station  ;  and, 
rebuilt  in  1808,  contains  1114  sittings.  At  Woodhead 
are  St  Mary's  Established  mission  church,  a  plain  but 
commodious  Free  church,  altered  and  decorated  in  1878, 
and  All  Saints'  Episcopal  church,  which.  Early  English 
in  style,  was  built  in  1849,  and  received  the  addition  of 
a  tower  and  spire  in  1870.  Another  Episcopal  church, 
St  George's  (1796-1848),  is  at  MeiklefoUa,  If  mile  SSE 
of  Rothie  station.  Seven  schools — Fyvie,  MeiklefoUa, 
Steinmanhill,  Woodhead,  All  Saints',  Fyvie  female,  and 
St  Katherine's — with  total  accommodation  for  841 
cliildren,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  518,  and 
grants  amounting  to  £428,  8s.  6d.  Valuation  (1860) 
£13,663,  (1881)  £23,335,  14s.  Pop.  of  civil  parish  (1801) 
2391,  (1831)  3252,  (1861)  4344,  (1871)  4511,  (1881) 
4403  ;  of  ecclesiastical  parish  (1881)  3235  ;  of  registra- 
tion district  (1871)3306,(1881)  3Z17.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
86,  1876. 


GADGIRTH 


GAIRLOCH 


G 


GADGIRTH,  an  estate,  witli  a  mansion,  in  Coylton 
parish,  Ayrsliire,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river 
Ayr,   4  miles  SSW  of  Tarbolton.      Its  owner, 
Major-Gen.  Francis  Claud  Burnett  (b.  1811  ;  sue. 
1833),  holds  1500  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £2106  per 
annum. 

Gadie,  a  burn  of  Aberdeenshire,  rising  in  Clatt  parish, 
and  running  10  J  miles  east-by-northward  through  Leslie, 
Premnay,  and  Oyne  parishes,  till  it  falls  into  the  Ury, 
9  furlongs  E  of  Oyne  church.  It  is  celebrated  in  several 
of  the  Latin  poems  of  Arthur  Johnston,  and  also  in  a 
fine  old  ballad,  beginning — 

*  O  an  I  were  where  Gadie  ring, 
'Mang  fragrant  heath  and  yellow  whins, 
Or  brawlin  down  the  bosky  linns. 
At  the  back  o'  Bennochie.* 

After  the  capture  of  Pondicherry  in  1793,  a  Highland 
regiment,  marching  into  the  town,  was  suddenly  arrested 
by  hearing  this  ballad  sung  by  a  Scottish  lady  from  an 
open  window. — Ord,  Sur.,  sh.  76,  1874. 

Gaiok,  a  desolate  alpine  tract,  a  forest  once,  in  Kin- 
gussie parish,  Inverness-shire,  around  the  head  of 
Glentromie,  contiguous  to  the  Perthshire  border.  It 
touches,  or  rather  overlaps,  the  watershed  of  the  central 
Grampians,  its  mountain  summits  culminating  at  an 
altitude  of  2929  feet  above  sea-level;  and  it  abounds 
in  grandly  romantic  scenery,  including  on  its  southern 
border  one  of  the  most  accessible  and  picturesque  of  the 
passes  over  the  central  Grampians.  It  partly  contains, 
partly  adjoins,  three  lakes — Loch  an  Duin  (10  x  1 J  furl. ; 
1680  feet).  Loch  Bhradain  (4i  x  1|  furl. ;  1460  feet),  and 
Loch  an  t-Seilich  (9  x  3 J  furl. ;  1400  feet).  Wood  there 
is  none  now,  except  some  scattered  birch  copse ;  but  the 
'  forest '  is  stocked  by  numerous  herds  of  red  deer,  be- 
longing to  Sir  George  Macpherson  Grant,  Bart,  of  Inver- 
eshie ;  and  by  him  it  is  let  for  £2000  a  year.  It  contains 
only  one  Jiouse,  Gaick  Lodge,  10  miles  S  by  E  of  Kin- 
gussie.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  64,  1874. 

Gainvich.     See  Sanda,  Argyllshire. 

Gairbridge.    See  Guard  Bridge. 

Gairden.     See  Gaien. 

Gairie,  a  rivulet  of  Kirriemuir  and  Glamis  parishes, 
Forfarshire,  flowing  round  two  sides  of  Kirriemuir  town, 
and,  after  a  south-south-easterly  com'se  of  7J  miles,  fall- 
ing into  Dean  Water  2  miles  NE  of  Glamis  village. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  56,  1870. 

Gair  Loch.     See  Gaielooh,  Eoss-shire. 

Gairloch  (Gael,  gearr-loch,  '  short  loch  '),  a  coast  vil- 
lage and  parish  of  W  Ross-shire.  The  sea-loch,  that  gives 
them  name,  strikes  6J  miles  east-south-eastward  from 
the  North  Minch,  and  measures  3J  across  the  entrance, 
where  lies  the  island  of  Longa,  whilst  3  J  miles  higher  up, 
near  the  southern  shore,  is  the  smaller  island  of  Horris- 
dale.  Gairloch  village  stands  on  its  north-eastern  shore, 
by  water  being  30  miles  NNE  of  Portree  in  Skye,  by  road 
6  SW  of  Poolewe,  9  WNW  of  Talladale  or  Lochmaree 
hotel,  18  ^VNW  of  Kinlochewe  hotel,  and  28  WNW  of 
Auchnasheen  station  on  the  Dingwall  and  Skye  section 
(1870)  of  the  Highland  railway,  this  station  being  25J 
miles  NE  of  Strome  Ferry  and  27f  WSW  of  Dingwall. 
It  communicates  with  Auchnasheen  by  a  daUy  coach, 
with  Portree  by  a  weekly  steamer ;  and  has  a  post  office, 
with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  depart- 
ments, a  branch  of  the  Caledonian  Bank,  a  steamboat  pier, 
and  a  good  hotel,  greatly  enlarged  in  the  last  few  years. 

The  parish,  containing  also  Poolewe,  Talladale,  and 
Kinlochewe,  is  bounded  NE  by  Greinord  Bay  and  Loch- 
broom  parish,  E  by  Contiu  parish,  SE  by  Lochalsh  and 
Lochcarron  parishes,  S  by  Applecross  parish  and  Loch 
Torridon,  and  W  by  the  North  Minch.  It  has  an  utmost 
length,  from  E  to  W,  of  25  miles  ;  an  utmost  width, 
from  N  to  S,  of  22  miles  ;  and  an  area  of  356  square 
mUes,  or  227,8S0f  acres,  of  which  1639J  are  foreshore 
and  16,996i  water.  The  seaboard,  90  miles  long,  is 
bold  and  rocky,  rising  rapidly  to  100  and  400  feet  above 
sea-level,  and  deeply  indented  by  Geeinord  Bay,  Loch 


Ewe,  Gair  Loch,  and  Looh  Toeeidon.  The  river  Coulin 
or  A  Ghairbhe.  entering  from  Lochcarron  parish,  winds 
6J  miles  northward,  through  Lochs  Coulin  and  Clair, 
along  the  Lochcarron  border  and  through  the  interior 
to  Kinlochewe,  where  it  is  joined  by  a  rivulet,  running 
Z\  miles  north-westward  down  Glen  Docherty.  As  Kin- 
lochewe river,  the  united  stream  flows  2f  miles  north- 
westward to  the  head  of  famous  Loch  Maeee  (12|  miles 
X  3  furl,  to  2J  miles ;  32  feet  above  sea-level),  and  from 
its  foot,  as  the  river  Ewe,  continues  2J  miles  north-north- 
westward, tUl  at  Poolewe  it  falls  into  Loch  Ewe.  Lochan 
Fada  (3|  miles  x  5  furl. ;  1000  feet),  lying  near  the  Loch- 
broom  border,  sends  off  a  stream  4  j  miles  south-south-west- 
ward to  Loch  Maree,  near  its  head ;  and  Fionn  Loch  (5f  x 
1^  miles ;  559  feet),  lying  right  on  the  Lochbroom  border, 
sends  off  the  Little  Greinord  along  that  border  5J  miles 
north-by-eastward  to  the  head  of  Greinord  Bay.  These 
are  the  principal  streams  and  lakes  of  Gairloch  parish, 
whose  very  large  fresh-water  area  (more  than  fifteen 
times  larger  than  that  of  the  whole  of  Fife)  comprises 
the  7090|  acres  of  Loch  Maree,  the  2238|-  of  half  of  Fionn 
Loch,  the  923  of  Lochan  Fada,  the  203  of  part  of  Dubh 
Loch  (9x3  furl.)  at  the  head  of  Fionn  Loch,  the  345|  of 
Loch  na  h-Oidhche  (If  mile x 3|  furl.),  the  166  of  Loch 
ToUie  (74  X  5  furl.),  etc.  The  surface  is  grandly  diversi- 
fied by  tall  pyramidal  quartz  mountains,  the  chief  being 
Ben  Airidh  a'Char  (2593  feet),  Ben  Lair  (2817),  Ben 
Sleooh  (3217),  and  Ben  a'Mhuiuidh  (2231),  to  the  NE 
of  Loch  Maree  ;  to  the  SW,  Bus-bheinn  (2869)  and  Ben 
Eay  or  Eighe  (3309).  The  rocks  are  primary,  of  Lauren- 
tian,  Cambrian,  or  Devonian  age.  Less  than  5000acres,  or 
one-fortieth  of  the  entire  area,  is  returned  as  '  arable,  wood- 
land, or  rough  pasture,'  the  rest  being  aU  of  it  mountain, 
moor,  and  deer-forest.  So  that  Gairloch  depends  far 
less  on  agriculture  proper  than  on  sheep-farming  and  the 
fisheries  of  the  streams  and  lochs  and  neighbouring  seas. 
In  1823  Hugh  Miller  was  sent  to  Gairloch  village  with 
a  party  of  fellow-quarrymen,  and  chapters  xii.  and  xiii. 
of  My  Schools  and  Schoolraasters  give  a  graphic  descrip- 
tion of  his  sojourn  here.  '  For  about  six  weeks,'  he 
writes,  'we  had  magnificent  weather;  and  I  greatly  en- 
joyed my  evening  rambles  amid  the  hiUs  or  along  the 
sea-shore.  I  was  struck,  in  these  walks,  by  the  amazing 
abundance  of  wild  flowers  which  covered  the  natural 
meadows  and  lower  hUl-slopes.  .  .  .  How  exquisitely 
the  sun  sets  in  a  clear,  calm  summer  evening  over  the 
blue  Hebrides  !  Within  less  than  a  mile  of  our  barrack 
there  rose  a  tall  hill  (1256  feet),  whose  bold  summit 
commanded  all  the  Western  Isles,  from  Sleat  in  Skye  to 
the  Butt  of  the  Lewis.  .  .  .  The  distafl^  and  spindle 
was  still  in  extensive  use  in  the  district,  which  did  not 
boast  a  single  spinning-wheel,  a  horse,  or  a  plough,  no 
cart  having  ever  forced  its  way  along  the  shores  of  Loch 
Maree.  .  .  .  They  tell  me,  that,  for  certain,  the 
fairies  have  not  left  this  part  of  the  country  yet. '  The 
chief  antiquities  of  Gairloch  are  described  under  Loch 
Maree,  which,  from  the  12th  to  the  19th  of  September 
1877,  received  a  visit  from  Queen  Victoria.  Mansions, 
both  noticed  separately,  are  Floweedale  and  Lettee- 
EWE ;  and  Sir  Kenneth  Mackenzie  owns  rather  more 
than  two-thirds  of  the  entire  rental.  In  the  presbytery 
of  Lochcarron  and  synod  of  Glenelg,  this  parish  since 
1851  has  been  ecclesiastically  divided  into  Gairloch  and 
Poolewe,  the  former  a  living  worth  £319.  Its  church, 
built  in  1791,  contains  500  sittings  ;  in  the  graveyard 
lies  buried  the  Gaelic  bard,  WUliam  Ross  (1762-90),  who 
was  schoolmaster  here  for  the  last  four  years  of  his  life. 
There  are  Free  churches  of  Gairloch  and  Poolewe ;  and  ten 
public  schools — Achtercaii-n,  Bualnaluib,  Inverasdale, 
Kinlochewe,  Laide,  Mellon  Udregle,  Melvaig,  Opinan, 
Poolewe,  and  Sand — with  total  accommodation  for  820 
children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  380,  and 
grants  amounting  to  £373,  lis.  Valuation  (1860) 
£6849,  (1882)  £10,700,  9s.  lid.  Pop.  of  civil  parish 
(1801)  1437,  (1821)  4518,  (1861)  5449,  (1871)  5048, 
(1881)  4594,   of  whom  4316  were  Gaelic-speaking ;  of 

65 


GAIBLOCa 

ecclesiastical  parish  (1871)  2425,  (1881)  2277  ;  of  regis- 
tration district  (1881)  4479,  of  wtom  1461  were  in  the 
northern  and  3018  in  the  southern  division. — Ord.  Sur., 
shs.  91,  92,  81,  82,  100,  1881-82. 

Gairlooh,  Dumbartonshire.     See  Gareloch. 

Gairlochy,  a  hamlet  in  Kilmallie  parish,  Invemess- 
shire,  at  the  foot  of  Loch  Loohy,  3  miles  WNW  of  Spean 
Bridge. 

Gairn,  a  small  river  of  Crathie  and  Glenmuick  par- 
ishes, SW  Aberdeenshire,  rising,  on  the  eastern  side 
of  Ben  Avon,  at  3550  feet  above  sea-level,  and  thence 
■finding  20  miles  east-south-eastward  along  a  mountain 
glen  called  from  it  Glengaikn,  tOl,  after  a  total  descent 
of  2810  feet,  it  falls  into  the  Dee  at  a  point  If  mile 
NW  of  Ballater.  The  Bridge  of  Gairn,  on  the  line  of 
road  from  Aberdeen  to  Castleton,  spans  it  J  mile  above 
its  mouth,  and  here  is  a  post  office  under  Aberdeen.  — 
Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  75,  65,  1876-70. 

Gaimey  Bridge,  a  farm  at  the  NE  verge  of  Cleish 
parish,  Kinross-shire,  on  the  left  bank  of  Gairney  "Water, 
If  mile  SSE  of  Kinross.  In  a  public  house  here,  on 
the  site  of  the  farmstead  stables,  Ebenezer  Erskine  and 
the  three  other  fathers  of  the  Secession  formed  them- 
selves into  a  presbytery,  15  Dec.  1733  ;  and  on  the  site 
of  the  farmhouse  itself,  the  young  poet  Michael  Bruce 
(1746-67)  taught  a  small  school  in  1765-66.— Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  40,  1867. 

Gaimey  Water,  a  burn  of  Glenmuick  and  Aboyne 
parishes,  SW  Aberdeenshire,  rising  at  an  altitude  of 
2500  feet,  and  running  5f  miles  north-north-eastward, 
through  Glentanner  Forest,  till,  after  a  descent  of  1880 
feet,  it  falls  into  Tanner  Water  at  a  point  54  mUes  SW 
of  Aboyne  village.— Ord  Sur.,  sh.  66,  1871."" 

Gaimey  Water,  a  rivulet  partly  of  Perthshire,  but 
chiefly  of  Kinross-shire.  Eising  among  the  hills  of  the 
,  Perthshire  section  of  Eossoway  parish,  it  runs  3 J  miles 
east-south-eastward,  chiefly  along  the  boundary  be- 
tween Perth  and  Kinross  shires  ;  and  then  proceeds  4| 
miles  east-by-northward,  chiefly  along  the  boundary 
between  Cleish  parish  on  the  right  and  Fossoway  and 
Kinross  parishes  on  the  left,  till  it  falls  into  Loch  Leven 
2  miles  SE  of  Kinross  town.— Orti.  Sur.,  sh.  40,  1867. 

Gaimside.     See  Glexgairn. 

Gairsay,  an  island  of  Evie  and  Kendall  parish,  Ork- 
ney, IJ  mile  E  of  the  nearest  part  of  Orkney  main- 
land, and  14  NW  of  Shapinshay.  It  measures  2  miles 
in  gi-eatest  length,  and  1 J  mile  in  greatest  breadth ;  con- 
sists chiefly  of  a  conical  hill  of  considerable  altitude ; 
rises  steeply  on  the  W  side  ;  includes,  on  the  E  and  on 
the  S,  some  low,  fertile,  well-cultivated  land  ;  contains, 
close  to  the  S  shore,  remains  of  a  fine  old  mansion,  once 
the  seat  of  Sir  William  Craigie ;  and  has  a  small  harbour, 
called  Millburn,  perfectly  sheltered  on  all  sides,  mainly 
by  Gairsay  itself,  and  partly  by  a  small  island  in  the 
harbour's  mouth.     Pop.  (1851)  41,  (1871)  34,  (1881)  37. 

Gaitnip,  a  range  of  coast  crags  in  the  S  of  Kirkwall 
parish,  Orkney,  on  the  E  side  of  the  upper  part  of  Scapa 
Bay.  Several  caverns  penetrate  it,  all  formed  by  disin- 
tegrating action  of  the  sea ;  and  one,  Uke  a  narrow  wind- 
ing tunnel,  over  300  feet  long,  and  from  12  to  20  feet 
high,  is  beautifully  studded  with  stalactites. 

Galashiels,  a  parliamentary  burgh  and  parish  of  Sel- 
kirkshire. The  town  is  situated  on  both  banks  of  the 
river  Gala,  4  miles  WNW  of  Melrose,  6  N  of  Selkirk, 
18  ESE  of  Peebles,  and  28  SSE  of  Edinburgh  by  road. 
It  is  a  station  on  the  Waverley  section  of  the  North 
British  railway,  and  from  it  diverge  branch  lines  to 
Selkirk  and  Peebles.  The  name,  from  Gala  and  shiels 
or  shielings,  signifying  shepherds'  huts,  appears  to 
have  designated  originally  a  small  vUlage,  on  the  site 
of  what  is  now  called  the  old  or  high  town,  which 
had  found  its  nucleus  in  the  baronial  seat  of  Gala,  on 
the  S  bank  of  the  river.  This  Gallowschel  was  a  place 
of  considerable  antiquity,  and  is  traditif  nally  said  to 
have  contained  a  hunting-seat  of  the  Scottish  monarchs. 
Its  name  appears  in  a  charter  of  the  early  part  of  the 
14th  century  ;  it  is  mentioned  as  containing  a  tower  of 
Earl  Douglas  in  1416  ;  and  it  figures  in  documents 
relating  to  the  marriage  of  James  IV.  with  the  Princess 
66 


Arms  of  Galashiels. 


GALASHIELS 

Margaret  of  England.  The  old  peel  tower,  known  as 
'  Hunters'  Ha','  stood  till  the  end  of  last  century  ;  and 
ivy-clad  ruins  of  the  tolbooth,  whose  vane  bore  date 
1669,  were  demolished  in  the  summer  of  1880.  The 
decay  of  the  village  has  been  arrested  by  the  prosperity 
of  the  modern  town,  and  its  site  is  now  occupied  by 
numerous  handsome  villas  and  dwelling-houses.  The 
armorial  bearings  of  Galashiels  are  a  fox  and  a  plum- 
tree,  and  are  said  to  have  been 
assumed  in  memory  of  an  event 
that  occurred  during  Edward 
IIl.'s  invasion  of  Scotland 
(1337).  A  party  of  English, 
encamped  in  or  near  the  town, 
had  begun  to  straggle  through 
the  neighbouring  woods  in 
search  of  wild  plums,  when 
the  inhabitants  of  Galashiels 
fell  suddenly  upon  them,  drove 
them  headlong  to  a  spot  on  the 
Tweed,  nearly  opposite  Abbots- 
ford,  stUl  known  as  the  '  Eng- 
lishmen's Syke,'  and  cut  them 
down  almost  to  a  man.  Con- 
gratulating themselves  on  an 
exploit  that  had  proved  to  be 
sourer  fruit  for  the  invaders  than  the  plums  they  had 
been  seeking,  the  villagers  dubbed  themselves  '  the  Sour 
Plums  0'  Galashiels,'  and  are  celebrated  under  that  name 
in  an  old  song.  The  arms  of  the  town,  however  seem 
to  indicate  some  confusion  of  thought  between  this  event 
and  the  fable  of  the  fox  and  grapes. 

The  modern  town  owes  its  origin,  as  well  as  its  growth 
and  prosperity,  to  the  spirit  of  manufacturing  enterprise, 
which  first  seized  the  people  in  last  century.  Galashiels 
has  no  history  apart  from  the  narrative  of  the  develop- 
ment of  its  manufactures,  and  although  mills  on  the 
Gala  are  mentioned  in.  the  early  17th  century,  it  was 
not  till  the  18th  that  a  general  move  was  made  down  to 
the  banks  of  the  stream  which  afforded  such  excellent 
water-power.  Dorothy  Wordsworth,  speaking  of  the 
place  in  1803,  describes  it  as  'the  village  of  Galashiels, 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  stream ;  a  pretty 
place  it  once  has  been,  but  a  manufactory  is  established 
there  ;  and  a  townish  bustle  and  ugly  stone  houses  are 
fast  taking  place  of  the  brown-roofed  thatched  cottages, 
of  which  a  great  number  yet  remain,  partly  overshadowed 
by  trees. '  Since  that  time  the  prosperity  and  activity  of 
the  burgh  have  reached  a  very  high  pitch.  An  important 
factor  in  furthering  the  prosperity  of  the  town  was  the 
opening  of  the  various  railways — to  Edinburgh  and 
Hawick,  to  Selkirk,  and  to  Peebles — which  furnished 
access  to  the  best  markets  at  a  lessened  cost  for  the 
manufactures  of  the  town. 

The  burgh  of  Galashiels  stretches  for  2  miles  along 
both  sides  of  the  Gala,  which  flows  through  the  narrow 
town  from  NW  to  SE.  For  the  most  part  it  is  buUt  on 
the  alluvial  ground  along  the  banks,  but  it  also  sends 
offshoots,  extending  up  the  slopes  of  the  adjacent  hiUs. 
It  is  flanked  or  overlooked  on  the  one  side  by  Meigle 
HUl  (1387  feet)  and  Gala  HUl,  and  on  the  other  by 
Buckholm  and  Langlee  Hills ;  and  the  environs  are 
picturesque  and  varied  in  their  scenery.  Situated  thus 
on  the  border  between  Selkirkshire  and  Roxburghshire, 
the  burgh  belongs  to  two  parishes — Melrose  and  Gala- 
shiels— which  are,  however,  for  all  civil  and  police 
purposes,  regarded  as  one  community  in  Selkirkshire, 
though  for  parochial  matters  each  parish  rates  its  own 
district.  The  boundary  between  them  is  exceedingly 
irregular ;  and  though  Melrose  parish,  which  takes  in 
the  Ladhope  district  of  the  burgh,  lies  to  the  N  of  the 
Gala,  and  Galashiels  parish  generally  to  the  S,  the  stream 
does  not  form  the  boundary  between  them.  Some  time 
ago  both  districts  were  about  equal  in  population,  but 
with  the  recent  opening  up  of  Gala  policies,  a  new  town 
has  arisen  in  Galashiels  parish,  both  larger  and  finer  in 
appearance  than  the  Melrose  portion. 

The  aspect  of  the  town  is  unassuming.  Most  of  it 
is  either  straggling    or    iiTegular ;    the  central  parts 


GALASHIELS 

tmd  'bolli  extremities,  contiguous  to  the  river,  consist 
mainly  of  factories,  shops,  ofiices,  and  workmen's  liouses. 
The  part  S  of  the  Gala  is  made  up  chiefly  of  one  long 
irregular  street,  with  two  newer  and  shorter  streets  and 
detached  buildings,  stretching  along  the  narrow  level 
strip  that  intervenes  between  the  river  and  the  hills. 
The  northern  part  of  the  town,  which  is  the  quarter 
showing  the  greatest  extension  and  improvements  in 
recent  times,  has  a  number  of  short,  irregular  streets 
and  rows  and  clusters  of  buildings  that  reach  up  the 
face  of  the  hill.  The  suburbs,  especially  Abbotsford 
Koad,  Jleh-ose  Road,  and  Windy  Knowe,  are  adorned 
with  large  and  elegant  villas,  olfering  one  of  the  best 
and  most  visible  evidences  of  the  prosperity  of  the 
Galashiels  manufacturers.  The  river,  which  is  spanned 
by  five  bridges,  of  which  two  are  railway  viaducts,  is,  in 
times  of  drought,  almost  entirely  drawn  off  by  the  fac- 
tories ;  but  in  times  of  freshet  it  is  not  always  prevented 
by  strong  bulwarks  from  flooding  the  adjacent  streets. 
A  heavy  flood  on  12  July  1880,  and  another  on  10  March 
1881,  were  attended  with  great  damage  to  property  along 
its  banks.  There  is  no  drainage  system  whatever,  and 
at  all  times  the  Gala  serves  as  the  common  sewer  for  the 
refuse  from  the  factories  and  houses — a  fact  which  at 
times  is  unpleasantly  impressed  upon  the  olfactory  nerves 
of  visitors  to  the  town.  The  railway  within  the  burgh 
is  crossed  by  one  foot-bridge  and  two  for  wheeled  traffic. 
Galashiels  has  no  imposing  show  of  buildings.  The 
houses,  with  the  exception  of  the  suburban  villas,  are  in 
a  plain  and  unambitious  style  ;  and  even  the  shops  are 
few  and  small  in  consideration  of  the  population  and 
relative  importance  of  the  town.  The  public  buildings 
are  neither  very  numerous  nor  very  fine.  The  town- 
hall,  built  in  1860  at  a  cost  of  £3000,  is  a  handsome 
edifice  of  two  stories,  with  a  large  hall  capable  of  con- 
taining 600  persons,  besides  a  smaller  hall  and  committee- 
rooms.  The  Corn  Exchange  was  erected  in  1860  at  a 
cost  of  £1100,  and  has  a  hall  with  accommodation  for 
500  persons.  The  Volunteers'  Hall  was  built  in  1874, 
and  cost  £3500  ;  the  Masonic  Hall  buildings,  including 
shops  and  small  dwelling-houses,  as  well  as  the  public 
rooms,  were  erected  in  1876  for  about  £3000  ;  and  the 
Good  Templar  Hall  can  accommodate  300  persons.  All 
these  halls  are  the  property  of  various  companies  of 
shareholders.  The  public  hospital  was  projected  in 
1872.  The  public  Hbrary  was  erected  in  1873  at  a  cost 
of  about  £1000,  and  is  managed  by  a  committee  chosen 
from  among  the  town  council  and  the  householders.  In 
1881-82  the  income  of  the  library  was  £296,  derived  chiefly 
from  an  assessment  of  Id.  per  £ ;  and  the  expenditure  was 
£271.  There  is  a  very  large  number  of  associations  and 
combinations  for  various  purposes — social,  commercial, 
helpful,  and  pleasurable — among  the  people  of  Galashiels. 
These  include  a  Mechanics'  institute  and  library,  a  cot- 
tagers' horticultural  society,  two  farmers'  clubs,  a  pro- 
vident building  society,  a  provision  store  and  several 
co-operative  store  companies,  a  manufacturers'  corpora- 
tion, masonic,  good  templar,  and  foresters'  lodges,  clubs 
for  angling,  cricket,  football,  bicycling,  bowling,  curling, 
etc.,  a  literary  society,  two  total  abstinence  societies, 
and  various  religious  societies,  an  ornithological  society 
and  club,  an  entomological  society,  and  several  benefit 
societies.  The  churches  and  meeting-houses  are  numerous 
and  capacious.  The  parish  church  is  a  semi-Gothic  edifice 
dating  from  1813,  and  contains  about  850  sittings.  Lad- 
hope  church  serves  for  a  quoad  sacra  parish  constituted  in 
1855,  and  comprising  part  of  the  town  within  Melrose 
parish.  It  contains  about  900  sittings.  The  West  church 
serves  for  a  quoad  sacra  parish  constituted  in  1870,  and 
was  buUt  at  a  cost  of  £1400  In  Nov.  1881  a  fine  new 
church  was  opened,  its  erection,  begun  in  1878,  being 
the  result  of  the  growing  needs  of  the  populous  town. 
It  serves  as  a  consort  to  the  parish  church,  the  parish 
minister  and  his  assistant  holding  alternate  services  in 
the  two  buildings.  The  style  of  the  new  edifice  is  Early 
Decorated  Gothic  ;  the  estimated  cost  is  £13,000,  exclu- 
sive of  the  spire,  which  is  designed  to  be  190  feet  high,  but 
of  which  only  the  tower  is  as  yet  completed.  The  church, 
which  is  seated  for  950  persons,  has  a  nave  S3  feet  long, 


GALASHIELS 

besides  aisles  and  transepts ;  the  height  to  the  apex  of 
the  roof  is  62  feet.  A  large  organ  was  placed  in  this 
church  at  a  cost  of  £1150.  Galashiels  Free  church  was 
built  in  1875  at  a  cost  of  about  £5150,  to  supersede  a 
previous  edifice.  It  is  in  the  Gothic  style,  with  two 
gables  in  the  transept,  and  is  seated  for  650  persons. 
A  hall  in  the  same  style  adjoins  it.  Ladhope  Free 
church  contains  550  sittings.  The  East  United  Presby- 
terian church,  built  in  1844,  with  840  sittings,  super- 
seded a  previous  church  that  was  nearly  as  old  as  the 
modern  town.  The  West  United  Presbyterian  church 
was  opened  in  1880,  also  on  the  site  of  a  former  church, 
and  affords  room  for  upwards  of  800  hearers.  The  South 
United  Presbyterian  church,  an  edifice  in  the  Early 
English  style,  with  a  square  tower  70  feet  high,  was 
opened  in  Aug.  1880.  It  cost  £4500,  and  accommodates 
between  750  and  800  persons.  St  Peter's  Episcopal 
church,  an  Early  English  building  dating  from  1853, 
was  enlarged  by  the  addition  of  a  new  chancel  and  S 
aisle  in  1881,  when  a  new  organ  also  was  erected,  and  con- 
tains between  450  and  500  sittings.  The  Gothic  Roman 
Catholic  church  of  Our  Lady  and  St  Andrew,  opened  in 
1858,  with  400  sittings,  was  not  entirely  completed  tiU 
1872.  Other  places  of  worship  are  an  Evangelical  Union 
chapel  (rebuilt  1872)  ;  two  Baptist  chapels,  Galashiels 
(1804)  and  Stirling  Street  (1875);  two  meeting-houses 
of  Plymouth  Brethren  ;  and  one  of  Christadelphians. 

Schools,  in  the  year  ending  30  Sept.  1881,  with  accom- 
modation, average  attendance,  and  grant,  were  the 
burgh  public  (470,  546,  £452,  4s.  6d.),  the  infant  public 
(156,  137,  £85,  17s.),  Ladhope  public  (252,  204,  £118, 
19s.),  the  Episcopalian  (263,  265,  £231,  7s.  6d.),  the 
Roman  Catholic  (313,  109,  £94,  18s.  6d.),  and  Glendin- 
ning  Terrace  public  (300,  350,  £328,  16s.),  this  last  being 
under  the  Melrose  school-board.  The  burgh  public 
school  in  Gala  Park  was  erected  in  1875  at  a  cost  of 
£4200 ;  and  £8500  has  since  been  spent  in  providing 
additional  accommodation.  There  are  various  private 
schools,  including  three  young  ladies'  schools  and  the 
academy  for  boys,  which  wiU  probably  soon  be  recog- 
nised as  a  higher  class  public  school,  and  which  the 
burgh  school-board  has  agreed  to  lease,  provided  they 
obtain  the  sanction  of  the  Education  Department. 

Galashiels  contains  a  head  post  office,  with  all  the 
usual  departments,  including  a  savings'  bank.  The 
other  banks  comprise  branches  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland, 
British  Linen  Company,  Commercial  Bank,  National 
Bank,  and  Royal  Bank  of  Scotland.  Thirty -six  iasur- 
ance  companies  are  represented  by  branches  or  agents 
in  the  town.  There  are  7  inns  and  hotels.  Two  weekly 
newspapers,  both  Liberal  in  politics,  are  published  at 
Galashiels — The  Border  Advertiser,  established  in  1848, 
and  The  Scottish  Border  Record,  established  in  1881.  A 
weekly  market  is  held  each  Tuesday,  a  special  market 
for  seed-corn  on  the  third  "Wednesday  in  March,  another 
for  wool  on  the  second  Thursday  of  July,  and  one  for 
general  business  on  7  Oct. 

Galashiels  contains  4  iron  and  brass  foundries  and  3 
engineering  works,  3  dye-works,  1  skinnery,  perhaps 
the  largest  in  Scotland,  though  at  present  (1882)  only 
in  course  of  being  rebuilt  after  a  destructive  fire,  and 
several  establishments  for  the  production  of  such  mill 
furnishings  as  shuttles,  heddles,  etc.  ;  besides  the  usual 
shops  for  the  local  trade  of  a  country  town.  But  by 
far  its  most  important  interest  centres  in  the  manu- 
facture of  woollen  cloth  ;  the  greater  part  of  the  popu- 
lation is  connected  with  it ;  the  largest  buildings  in  the 
town  are  its  woollen  mills,  and  the  most  ornate  the 
mansions  of  its  tweed  manufacturers.  The  industry 
seems  to  have  been  followed  in  the  district  from  an  early 
period ;  for  a  charter  of  1622  makes  mention  of  certain 
wault-mUls  (fulling-mills).  But  even  in  1774,  150 
years  later,  no  great  progress  had  been  made,  for  only 
some  170  cwts.  of  wool  was  used  at  Galashiels,  and 
woven  into  blankets  and  coarse  'Galashiels  Greys.'  At 
the  same  date,  the  united  rental  of  the  three  wauLk-mUls 
in  the  town  was  £15.  But  before  the  close  of  the  18th 
century  an  advance  was  begun.  In  1790  the  first  carding 
machine  in  Scotland  was  erected  at  Galashiels,  and  that 

67 


GALASHIELS 

was  only  the  forerunner  of  many  new  machines  and 
modes  introduced  by  the  active  and  enterprising  manu- 
facturers. In  that  year  mills  began  to  be  erected  for 
the  reception  of  the  new  machinery ;  but  by  far  the 
greater  part  of  the  660  cwts.  of  wool  used  in  the  district 
in  1792  was  woven  in  the  dwellings  of  the  weavers. 
Few  years  passed  in  the  beginning  of  the  present  century 
without  the  introduction  of  some  improvement  that 
enhanced  the  quality  of  the  cloth,  or  lessened  the  cost 
of  production.  The  chief  products  up  tiU  1829  were, 
as  before,  blankets  and  cloth  of  home-grown  wool,  with 
knitting  yarns  and  flannels  ;  but  the  depression  of  that 
year,  co-operating  with  a  change  of  fashion,  inflicted  a 
check  on  the  prosperity  of  Galashiels.  The  manufac- 
turers skilfully  adapted  themselves  to  circumstances, 
and  introduced  new  fabrics,  of  which  the  chief  were 
tartans  and  mixed  trouserings  in  tweed.  Thenceforward 
the  prosperity  of  the  town  has  been  steady  and  uniform ; 
and,  notwithstanding  the  keen  and  growing  rivalry  of 
the  mills  in  Selkirk,  Hawick,  Dumfries,  Innerleithen, 
etc. ,  the  manufacturers  of  Galashiels,  as  they  were  the 
first  to  introduce  the  wooUen  manufactures  into  the 
south  of  Scotland,  have  constantly  maintained  their  posi- 
tion at  the  head  of  the  industry.  The  chief  fabrics  now 
produced  at  Galashiels  are  the  world-renowned  tweeds  ; 
but  yarns,  blankets,  plaids,  shawls,  tartans,  narrow 
cloths,  grey  and  mixed  crumb-cloths,  and  blanket  shawls 
of  variegated  patterns,  also  bulk  largely  in  its  trade  re- 
turns. In  1882  there  were  17  woollen-mills  in  operation, 
and  3  large  and  1  small  yarn-spinning  mills.  There  are 
no  factories  for  the  manufacture  of  hosiery,  although 
there  are  two  or  three  stocking-makers  in  the  town  who 
do  a  little  business  privately.  There  are  also  3  tweed 
■warehouses,  on  a  tolerably  extensive  scale,  which  carry 
on  a  home  and  foreign  trade.  The  manufacturers  are 
exceedingly  averse  to  affording  information  concerning 
the  extent  of  their  operations  ;  and  it  is  diflicult  to  ob- 
tain accurate  returns  as  to  the  number  of  hands  employed 
or  the  yearly  value  of  goods  manufactured. 

Galashiels  proper  was  made  a  burgh  of  barony  in 
1599,  and,  till  1850,  was  administered  by  a  baron-bailie 
under  the  Scotts  of  Gala,  who  succeeded  the  Pringles  of 
Gala  as  superiors  in  1632.  The  town  adopted  the  General 
Police  and  Improvement  Act  for  Scotland  in  1864,  and 
began  to  be  governed  under  that  Act  by  a  provost,  2 
junior  magistrates  or  bailies,  and  12  councillors  or  com- 
missioners of  police.  In  1868  it  was  constituted  a 
parliamentary  burgh,  and  it  unites  with  Hamck  and 
Selkirk  in  returning  one  member  to  parliament.  In 
1876  the  boundaries  of  the  burgh  were  extended  for 
municipal  purposes,  though  not  for  parliamentary  elec- 
tion purposes.  In  1882  the  corporation  consisted  of  a 
provost,  4  bailie.s,  a  treasm'er,  and  9  councillors,  elected 
in  terms  of  a  bill  introduced  into  parliament  in  1875  for 
extending  the  limits  of  the  police  burgh,  and  for  invest- 
ing the  governing  body  with  efficient  powers.  The  same 
bill  authorised  the  corporation  to  construct  waterworks, 
with  a  compensation  reservoir  on  theCaddon,  a  clear  water 
reservoir  on  Howesdean,  and  a  service  reservoir  to  the  S 
of  Leebrae.  These  were  completed  in  1879  at  a  cost  of 
about  £60,000.  The  police  force,  in  1882,  consisted  of 
12  men,  and  a  superintendent,  receiving  a  salary  of  £116. 
Police  courts  are  held  as  occasion  may  require.  Small 
debt  courts  are  held  on  the  second  Mondays  of  February, 
AprU,  June,  and  December,  on  the  last  Monday  of  July, 
and  on  the  first  Monday  of  October.  A  gas  company 
was  estabUshed  in  1836,  and  a  water  company  in  1839. 
Great  improvements  were  made  in  the  matter  of  clean- 
ing and  lighting  the  town  after  1864 ;  but  both  the 
water  supply  and  the  drainage  continued  for  several 
years  in  an  unsatisfactory  condition.  The  only  funds 
at  the  disposal  of  the  magistrates  and  council  are  such 
as  arise  under  the  Police  Act.  The  annual  value  of 
real  property  in  the  parliamentary  burgh,  exclusive  of 
railways,  was  £29,838  in  1872;  £56,904,  5s.  5d.  in  1882; 
£56,699,  12s.  lid.  in  1883,  this  being  the  first  decrease 
on  record.  The  municipal  constituency,  in  1883,  was 
2758  ;  and  the  parliamentary,  1828.  Pop.  of  the  par- 
liamentary burgh  (1871)  9678,  (1881)  12,435;  of  the 
68 


GALA  WATER 

entire  town  (1831)2209,  (1851)  5918,  (1861)  6433,  (1871) 
10,312,  (1881)  15,330,  of  whom  7250  were  males  and 
8080  females,  whilst  9140  were  in  the  parish  and  police 
burgh  of  Galashiels  and  6190  in  Melrose  parish.  Houses 
(1881)  3123  inhabited,  114  vacant,  82  building. 

Galashiels  parish  is  situated  partly  in  Selkirkshire 
and  partly  in  Roxburghshire,  its  larger  portion  being 
in  the  former  county.  It  includes  the  ancient  parishes 
of  Boldside  in  Selkirkshire,  and  Liudean  in  Roxburgh- 
shire ;  and  the  union  appears  to  have  been  carried 
through  in  1640.  The  parish  as  it  now  exists  is  bounded 
on  the  NE  and  E  by  Melrose,  on  the  SE  by  Bowden,  on 
the  S  by  Selkirk,  on  the  W  by  Selkirk  and  the  Selkirk- 
shire section  of  Stow,  and  on  the  NW  by  the  Selkirk- 
shire section  of  Stow.  Its  greatest  length,  from  NW 
to  SE,  is  6J  mUes ;  its  greatest  breadth  is  3:^  miles ; 
and  its  area  is  8589  acres,  of  which  150  are  water, 
and  5710  belong  to  Selkirkshire.  From  Caddonfoot 
to  the  Ettrick's  influx  the  river  Tweed  winds  3| 
miles  east-south-eastward  along  the  boundary  with 
Selkirk  parish,  and  then,  bending  2J  miles  north- 
north-eastward,  divides  the  Boldside  from  the  Lin- 
dean  section  and  from  the  Abbotsford  corner  of  Mel- 
rose. The  Ettrick,  for  the  last  If  mile  of  its  course, 
divides  the  Lindean  section  from  Selkirk  parish.  Cab- 
don  Water,  over  its  last  6J  fm-longs,  traces  the  N  half 
of  the  western  border  ;  and  Gala  Watee,  for  3J  mUes 
above  its  junction  with  the  Tweed,  traces  the  boundary 
with  Melrose  parish  on  the  NE.  Cauldshiels  Loch 
(2|  X  1  furl. )  is  in  the  Lindean  section ;  in  the  Boldside  is 
Hollybush  Loch  (2  x  J  furl.).  If  mile  S  of  the  tovm.  The 
whole  parish  of  Galashiels  is  hilly ;  but  the  hills  expand 
on  wide  bases,  and  have  in  general  rounded  tops  and  a  soft 
outline.  They  yield  a  good  quantity  of  land  to  the  plough 
and  for  plantation,  and  aiford  excellent  pasture-land  for 
sheep,  and  they  are  usually  separated  from  each  other 
by  beautiful  narrow  valleys.  The  principal  heights  are, 
in  Selkirkshire,  Meigle  Hill  (1387  feet),  Mossilee  HiU 
(1264),  Neidpath  HiLl  (1203),  Blakehope  HiU  (1099), 
and  Gala  Hill  (904) ;  in  Roxburghshire,  Cauldshiels 
Hill  (1076  feet).  White  Law  (1059),  Lindean  Moor  (968), 
and  Broad  Hill  (943).  Greywacke  and  clay  slate  are 
the  prevailing  rocks,  and  these  furnish  most  of  the 
local  building  material.  Ironstone  has  been  found,  but 
no  quantity  of  sandstone,  limestone,  or  coal.  The  soil 
along  the  river  banks  is  sandy,  on  the  rising-ground  N 
of  the  Tweed,  dry  and  gravelly  ;  and  on  similar  ground 

5  of  the  Tweed,  it  has  a  considerable  admixture  of  clay 
resting  upon  till.  Some  small  patches  of  table-land, 
distant  from  the  rivers,  have  black  mould.  Nearly 
one-third  of  the  land  is  arable  ;  most  of  the  remainder 
is  pasture,  though  a  respectable  number  of  acres  is 
under  wood.  Antiquities  are  represented  by  the  begin- 
ning of  the  Catkail,  a  reach  of  Roman  road,  the  Rink 
camp  on  the  Rink  Hill,  relics  of  various  other  Roman 
and  Pictish  fortifications,  and  Feenilee  Tower.  Gala 
House,  a  little  S  of  the  town,  is  a  recent  Scottish  Baronial 
edifice,  one  of  the  last  works  of  the  late  David  Bryce  ; 
its  owner,  John  H.  F.  Scott,  Esq.  (b.  1859  ;  sue.  1877), 
holds  3600  acres  in  Selkirkshire,  valued  at  £3396  per 
annum.     Another  mansion  is  Faldon'SIDE  ;  and,  in  all, 

6  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and 
upwards,  18  of  between  £100  and  £500,  16  of  from  £50 
to  £100,  and  56  of  from  £20  to  £50.  In  the  presby- 
tery of  Selkirk  and  synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale,  this 
parish  is  ecclesiastically  divided  into  Galashiels  proper. 
West  Church  quoad  sacra  parish,  and  part  of  the  quoad 
sacra  parish  of  Caddonfoot,  the  first  a  living  worth  £527. 
Under  the  landward  school-board,  Galashiels  and  Liu- 
dean public  schools,  with  respective  accommodation  for 
266  and  60  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance 
of  132  and  61,  and  grants  of  £71,  8s.  4d.  and  £59,  16s. 
Valuation  of  landward  portion  (1881)  £4743,  3s.  4d. 
Pop.  (1801)  844,  (1831)  1534,  (1861)  3379,  (1871)  6062 
(1881)  9742,  of  whom  6347  were  iu  the  ecclesiastical 
division  of  Galashiels,  3252  in  that  of  West  Church,  and 
143  in  that  of  Caddonfoot.— Orti.  Sur.,  sh.  25,  1865. 

Gala  Water,  a  river  of  Edinburgh,  Selkirk,  and  Rox- 
burgh shires,  rising  among  the  Moorfoot  HiUs  in  the 


GALATOWN 

first-named  county,  and  joining  the  Tweed  near  Melrose, 
after  a  course  of  21  miles,  during  which  it  descends 
from  1100  to  300  feet  above  sea-level.  From  its  source 
on  the  northern  verge  of  Heriot  parish,  the  Gala  first 
flows  for  2  miles  eastward  to  the  boundary  of  a  detached 
portion  of  Stow  parish,  and  thence  takes  a  south- 
south-easterly  direction,  which  it  maintains  to  the 
SE  border  of  Edinburghshire,  successively  crossing 
the  eastern  wing  of  Heriot  parish,  tracing  the  boundary 
between  Heriot  and  Stow,  and  traversing  the  main 
body  of  the  last-named  parish.  "Within  Stow  parish  it 
receives,  on  the  right,  the  Heriot  Water  and  the  Lug- 
gate  Water — the  former  a  tributary  almost  as  large  as 
the  Gala  itself — and  on  the  left,  the  smaller  affluents, 
Armit  or  Ermet  Water,  Cockum  Water,  and  Stow  Bum. 
Its  further  course  lies  in  a  south-easterly  direction, 
chiefly  along  the  boundary  between  Roxburghshire  and 
Selkirkshire,  till  it  reaches  the  Tweed,  into  which  it 
falls  a  little  below  Abbotsford,  and  about  2J  miles  W  of 
Melrose.  The  course  of  the  Gala  is  remarkably  sinuous  ; 
and  the  road  from  Edinburgh  to  Jedburgh  and  Carlisle, 
which  traces  the  windings  of  the  river  along  the  E  bank 
is,  says  Mr  Chambers,  at  least  a  third  longer  than  the 
crow-flight.  An  older  road  ran  along  the  W  bank  ;  but 
the  North  British  railway  line,  which  traverses  almost 
the  entire  length  of  the  valley,  crosses  and  recrosses  the 
stream  several  times.  The  river-basin  consists  for  the 
most  part  of  a  narrow  valley  flanked  with  rounded  hills, 
and  jiresents  scenery  with  all  the  usual  characteristics  of 
the  Scottish  Lowlands,  alternating  agricultural  and 
pastoral  scenes  with  the  rougher  beauty  of  uncultivated 
nature.  At  the  beginning  of  the  century,  the  Gala  dale 
was  almost  entirely  pastoral  and  nearly  destitute  of 
trees ;  but  since  then  much  of  the  ground  has  been 
broken  up  by  the  plough ;  and  numerous  plantations 
have  arisen,  in  many  cases  as  the  protection  or  ornament 
of  the  private  mansions  along  the  banks.  Of  these  last 
the  chief  are  Crookston,  Burnhouse,  Torsonce,  Bow- 
land,  Torwoodlee,  and  Gala.  As  a  fishing-stream,  the 
Gala  was  once  famous  for  the  abundance  of  its  trout ; 
now,  however,  it  has  been  so  much  over-fished,  that  a 
considerable  amount  of  time  and  skill,  and  perhaps  a 
certain  amount  of  good  fortune,  are  required  to  secure 
even  a  small  basket.  The  Gala  waters  Stow  village, 
and  2  miles  of  its  course  lie  through  the  busy  to^vn  of 
Galashiels,  whose  mills  sometimes  in  summer  draw  off 
almost  all  the  water  from  its  natm-al  channel.  There 
are  several  ruined  castles  and  towers  in  the  valley  of  the 
river,  and  traces  of  perhaps  a  dozen  ancient  camps.  The 
name  Gala  has  been  connected  with  the  Welsh  garw, 
'  rough ; '  some  authorities  derive  it  from  the  Gaelic  gwala, 
meauiug  '  a  full  stream. '  An  ancient  name  for  the 
vallej'  was  Wedale,  sometimes  explained  as  meaning  the 
vale  of  woe,  as  having  been  the  scene  of  some  sanguinary 
prehistoric  struggle ;  others  connect  it  with  the  Norse 
Ve,  a  temple  or  church,  and  translate  the  name  '  holy 
house  dale. '  In  Wedale  Dr  Skene  places  Guinnion,  the 
scene  of  one  of  the  twelve  battles  of  Arthur.  Two  bal- 
lads, one  of  them  by  Burns,  celebrate  the  '  braw  lads  o' 
Gala  Water.'— Ord  Sur.,  sh.  25,  1865.  See  Sir  Thomas 
Dick-Lauder's  Scottish,  Rivers  (Edinb.  1874). 

Galatown.    See  Gallatotvn. 

Galbraith.    See  Inch  Galbraith. 

Galdry  or  Gauldry,  a  village  in  Balmerino  parish, 
Fife,  on  a  plateau  on  the  centre  of  a  ridge  of  hill,  1 J  mile 
S  of  the  Firth  of  Tay  and  4i  mUes  SW  of  Newport.  It 
has  a  police  station. 

Gallangad,  a  burn  of  Dumbarton  and  Kilmaronock 
parishes,  Dumbartonshire,  rising  near  Dougnot  Hill 
(1228  feet),  and  winding  SJ  miles  north-by-eastward, 
till,  near  Drymen  station,  it  falls  into  Endrick  Water. 
During  the  last  2J  miles  of  its  course  it  traces  the  boun- 
dary between  Dumbarton  and  Stirling  shires,  and  here 
bears  the  name  of  Catter  Burn. —Ord.  Sur.,sK  30,1868. 

Gallary.     See  Gallery. 

Gallato-wn,  a  suburban  village  in  Dysart  parish,  Fife, 
5  furlongs  NNW  of  Dysart  station,  commencing  at  the 
N  end  of  Sinclairtown,  and  extending  \  mile  northward 
along  the  road  from  Kii-kcaldy  to  Cupar.     It  is  included 


GALLOWAY 

in  the  parliamentary  burgh  of  Dysart,  but  (since  1876) 
in  the  royal  burgh  of  Kirkcaldy.  Originally  called  Gal- 
lowstown,  it  took  that  name  either  from  the  frequent 
execution  at  it  of  criminals  in  feudal  times,  or  from  the 
special  execution  of  a  noted  robber  about  three  centuries 
ago  ;  and  it  long  was  famous  for  the  making  of  nails. 
It  now  participates  generally  in  the  industry,  resources, 
and  institutions  of  Sinclairtown ;  and  it  has  a  Free  church 
and  a  public  school. 

Gallengad.    See  Gallangad. 

Gallery,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Logiepert  parish, 
Forfarshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  North  Esk,  5  miles 
NNW  of  Dubton  Junction.  Its  owner,  David  Lyall, 
Esq.  (b.  1826),  holds  1576  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at 
£1932  per  annum.  A  hamlet,  Upper  Gallery,  stands 
3  miles  nearer  Dubton. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  57,  1868. 

Gallow  or  Gala  Lane,  a  rivulet  of  Kirkcudbright  and 
Ayr  shires,  issuing  from  the  Dungeon  Lochs,  and  running 
6J  miles  north-by-eastward,  chiefly  along  the  mutual 
boundary  of  the  two  counties,  to  the  head  of  Loch 
1)0011.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  8,  1863. 

Galloway,  an  extensive  district  in  the  south-western 
corner  of  Scotland,  which  originally  and  for  a  consider- 
able period  included  also  parts  of  Ayrshire  and  Dum- 
friesshire, has  for  ages  past  been  identified  simply  and 
strictly  with  the  shire  of  Wigtown  and  the  stewartry  of 
Kirkcudbright.  The  name,  though  inextricably  inter- 
woven with  Scottish  history,  designates  no  political 
jurisdiction,  and  is  unsanctioned  by  the  strict  or  civil 
nomenclature  of  the  country.  The  district  is  bounded 
on  the  N  by  AjTshire  and  Dumfriesshire,  on  the  E  by 
Dumfriesshire,  on  the  S  by  the  Solway  Firth  and  Irish 
Sea,  and  on  the  W  by  the  Irish  Channel  and  Firth  of 
Clyde.  Its  greatest  length,  from  E  to  W,  is  63J  miles  ; 
and  its  greatest  breadth,  from  N  to  S,  is  43  mUes.  It 
is  divided  into  three  districts — Upper  Galloway,  includ- 
ing the  northern  and  more  mountainous  parts  of  the 
two  shires ;  Lower  Galloway,  embracing  the  southern 
and  lowland  sections  E  of  Luce  Bay  ;  and  the  Ehinns  of 
Galloway,  consisting  of  the  peninsula  SW  of  Luce  Bay 
and  Loch  Ryan.  Galloway  has  long  been  famous  as  an 
excellent  pastoral  district ;  and  though  its  unsettled 
condition  long  kept  its  agriculture  in  a  backward  state, 
the  last  hundred  years  have  seen  splendid  progress 
made.  The  Galloway  breed  of  horses  is  celebrated,  and 
large  droves  of  polled  black  cattle  used  to  be  reared  for 
the  southern  markets.  Of  late,  however,  Ayi'shire 
cattle  have  been  superseding  the  native  breed ;  and 
dairy-farming  is  coming  into  favour.  The  absence  of 
coal,  lime,  and  freestone  has  protected  Galloway  from 
the  erection  of  busy  industrial  or  manufacturing  centres. 
The  surface,  on  the  whole,  is  undulating  ;  and  to  quote 
Mr  Henry  IngHs,  '  there  is  no  district  of  Scotland  more 
rich  in  romantic  scenery  and  association,  few  which 
possess  the  same  combination  of  sterile  grandeur  and 
arcadian  beauty,  and  fewer  still  which  are  blessed  with 
a  climate  equal  in  mildness  of  temperature  to  that  of 
Galloway.  The  tulip-tree  flourishes  and  flowers  at  St 
Mary's  Isle,  and  the  arbutus  bears  fruit  at  Kirkdale.' 
But  for  all  save  historical  details,  we  must  refer  to  our 
articles  on  Kiekcudbeightshirb  and  Wigtownshire. 

The  district,  afterwards  called  Galloway,  was  in  early 
times  held  by  tribes  of  the  nation  of  the  Brigantes. 
Ptolemy,  writing  in  the  2d  century  of  our  era,  calls 
them  Novantes  and  SelgovEe.  The  former  occupied  ths 
country  W  of  the  Nith,  and  had  two  towns — Lucopibia 
at  Whithorn,  and  Kerigonium  on  the  E  shore  of  Loch 
Eyan.  The  Selgovte  or  Elgovte  lay  to  the  E,  extend- 
ing over  Dumfriesshire,  and  their  towns  were  Trimon- 
tium,  Uxellum,  Corda,  and  Carbantorigum,  whose  sites 
Dr  Skene  finds  respectively  on  Birrenswark  Hill,  on 
Wardlaw  Hill,  at  Sanquhar,  and  at  the  Moat  of  Urr, 
between  the  Nith  and  Dee.  A  large  amount  of  ethno- 
logical controversy  has  been  waged  over  these  peoples  ; 
some  authorities  recognising  in  them  a  Gothic,  others  a 
Cymric,  and  others  a  Gaelic,  race.  The  authority  we 
have  just  named  considers  them  to  have  been  Celtic 
tribes  of  the  Gaelic  branch.  Intercepted  by  the  Britons 
of  Strathclyde  from  their  northern  Gaelic  relations,  and 

69 


GALLOWAY 

surrounded  in  their  little  corner  by  a  natural  girdle  of 
sea  and  mountain,  this  people  long  retained  their 
individuality.  They  were  known  as  the  Picts  of 
Galloway  centuries  after  the  word  Pict  had  disappeared 
elsewhere  from  the  country  ;  and  they  appeared  under 
that  name  as  a  division  of  the  Scottish  army  at  the 
Battle  of  the  Standard  in  1138.  We  know  little  con- 
cerning Galloway  in  Roman  times.  Agricola,  overrun- 
ning it  in  79  A.D.,  added  it  to  the  Eoman  province  in 
Britain,  and  Roman  military  remains  are  tolerably 
frequent  in  certain  districts.  In  397  it  is  related  that 
St  Ninian  built  a  church  at  Candida  Casa,  formerly 
Lucopibia,  dedicated  it  to  St  Martin  of  Tours,  and 
began  the  conversion  of  the  Picts.  After  the  departure 
of  the  Romans  from  Britain,  Galloway  appears,  from 
the  evidence  of  topographical  names  and  old  chronicles, 
to  have  been  governed  by  a  series  of  Pictish  kings  ;  but 
probably  early  in  the  7th  century  the  Northumbrian 
rulers  of  Bernicia  brought  it  under  their  sovereignty, 
and  for  several  centm-ies  remained  the  nominal  superiors 
of  its  lords.  There  is  no  authority  for  the  common 
narrative  of  immigrations  of  Irish  Celts  into  Galloway 
during  the  8th  and  following  centuries.  It  is  at  this 
period  that  the  modern  name  emerges.  The  district 
was  known  to  the  Irish  as  Gallgaidel  or  Gallgaidhel, 
and  to  the  Welsh  as  Galwyddel,  from  the  Celtic  cjall,  '  a 
stranger ; '  and  the  name,  besides  indicating  the  land  of 
strangers,  seems  to  have  some  reference  also  to  the  fact 
that  the  Gaelic  population  was  under  the  rule  of  the 
Anglian  Galle  or  strangers.  From  the  above  terms 
came  Gallweithia,  Galwethia,  and  many  other  forms. 
Latinised  as  Gallovidia,  and  appearing  now  as  Galloway. 
Towards  the  end  of  the  8th  century  the  power  of  the 
Angles  began  to  decline.  Betle,  who  gives  to  the 
Gallowegian  Picts  the  alternative  name  of  Niduari  from 
Nid  or  Nith,  like  NovautiB  from  Novius,  the  name 
under  which  Ptolemy  knew  the  same  river,  relates  that 
one  of  the  four  bishoprics  into  which  Northumbria  was 
divided  had  its  seat  at  Candida  Casa.  The  first  bishop 
was  appointed  in  727  ;  the  Angles  appear  to  have  been 
too  weak  to  appoint  another  after  Beadulf  about  796. 
The  Northmen,  who  first  appeared  in  England  in  this 
century,  did  not  overlook  Galloway ;  and  there  is  some 
ground  for  believing  that  the  Gallowegians  themselves 
partly  adopted  a  piratical  life.  During  the  next  two 
or  three  centuries  Galloway  was  probably  ruled  by 
native  rulers  in  tolerably  complete  independence  ;  and 
it  had  the  honour  of  being  the  locality  whence  Kenneth 
mac  Alpin  emerged  to  obtain  the  throne  of  Scotia. 
About  the  middle  of  the  11th  century  the  name  Galweya 
was  used  to  include  the  whole  country  from  Sohvay  to 
Clyde.  In  the  Orkneyinga  Saga,  which  narrates  the 
history  of  the  Norwegian  Jarl  Thorfiun,  a  contemporary 
of  Macbeth,  Galloway  is  referred  to  under  the  name  of 
Gadgeddli ;  and  it  probably  formed  one  of  the  nine 
earldoms  that  Thorfinn  possessed  in  Scotland.  Malcolm 
Ceannmor,  who  succeeded  to  the  throne  of  Scotia  in 
1057,  recovered  Galloway  from  the  Norse  supremacy, 
though  it  is  probable  that  many  Northmen  remained  in 
the  district.  In  1107,  David,  youngest  son  of  Malcolm 
Ceannmor,  received  Scotland  S  of  the  Forth  and  Clj'de 
as  an  earldom  ;  and  in  the  charter  which  he  granted  in 
1113  to  the  newly-founded  monastery  of  Selkirk,  he 
assigned  to  the  monks  the  tenth  of  his  '  can  '  or  dues 
from  Galweia.  David's  ascent  of  the  Scottish  throne  in 
1124  may  be  regarded  as  the  date  of  the  union  of 
Galloway  with  Scotland. 

Various  attempts  ha^e  been  made  to  furnish  Galloway 
with  a  line  of  independent  lords  during  the  earlier  parts 
of  its  obscure  history,  and  we  even  hear  of  a  certain 
Jacob,  Lord  of  Galloway,  as  having  been  one  of  the 
eight  reguli  who  met  Edgar  at  Chester  in  973.  But  all 
these  efforts  are  entirely  unauthentic,  and  are  based 
upon  comparatively  modern  authorities.  From  the 
reign  of  David  I.  we  are  on  more  historical  ground. 
After  the  death  of  Ulgric  and  Duvenald,  described  as 
the  native  leaders  of  the  Galwenses,  at  the  Battle  of  the 
Standard  in  1138,  Fergus,  who  may  possibly  have  been 
of  Nirrwegian  connections,  was  appointed  first  Earl  of 
70 


GALLOWAY 

Galloway.  This  powerful  noble  married  Elizabeth,  a 
natural  daughter  of  Henry  I.  of  England.  In  1160  he 
joined  Somerled,  Norse  ruler  of  Argyll,  in  a  revolt 
against  Malcolm  IV.,  but  was  subdued  after  three 
battles  and  compelled  to  resign  his  lordship  to  his  sons. 
He  retired  as  canon  regular  to  Holyrood,  where  he  died 
in  the  following  year.  His  gifts  and  endowments  to 
Holyrood  Abbey  were  very  extensive ;  and  that  house 
possessed  more  lands  in  the  stewartry  than  any  other. 
Uchtred  and  Gilbert,  sons  and  successors  of  Fergus, 
accompanied  King  William  the  Lyon  on  his  expedition 
to  England  in  1173  ;  but  when  he  was  taken  prisoner 
they  hurried  home,  expelled  with  cruel  slaughter  the 
English  and  Norman  inhabitants  of  Galloway,  and 
attempted  to  establish  their  independence  of  the  Scottish 
government,  even  offering  to  swear  fealty  to  England. 
William,  on  his  release  in  1174,  marched  at  once  to 
Galloway,  where,  however,  Gilbert,  who  had  cruelly 
murdered  his  brother  at  Loch  Fergus,  made  humble 
submission  and  gave  hostages.  Gilbert  died  in  1185, 
and  Roland,  son  of  the  murdered  Uchtred,  succeeded, 
after  first  quelling  a  revolt  under  Gilpatrick,  and  sub- 
duing Gilcolm,  a  powerful  freebooter,  who  had  invaded 
Galloway.  Duncan,  the  son  of  Gilbert,  received  the 
earldom  of  Carrick.  Roland  married  Elena,  daughter 
of  the  Constable  of  Scotland,  and  eventually  succeeded 
to  his  father-in-law's  high  office.  It  is  said  that  Roland 
swore  allegiance  to  Henry  II.  of  England  for  the  lands 
of  Galloway,  and  that  the  English  monarchs  continued  to 
look  upon  that  district  as  part  of  their  lawful  dominions. 
Alan  succeeded  his  father  in  1200  as  Lord  of  Gallo- 
way. He  assisted  King  John  in  his  Irish  expedition  in 
1211,  and  appeared  as  one  of  the  barons  who  extorted 
the  Magna  Charta  from  that  king.  Later,  however,  he 
returned  to  his  Scotch  allegiance,  and  succeeded  to  his 
father's  office  of  constable.  He  died  in  1234,  leaving 
three  daughters  and  an  illegitimate  son.  On  the  king's 
refusal  either  to  accept  the  lordship  himself  or  to  pre- 
vent the  partition  of  the  land  among  the  Norman  hus- 
bands of  the  three  heiresses,  the  Gallowegians  rose  in 
fierce  i-evolt,  and  were  with  difficulty  reduced  to 
obedience  in  1235.  Roger  de  Quincy,  husband  of  Elena, 
Alan's  eldest  daughter,  received  the  lordship.  This 
strict  enforcement  of  the  rule  of  legitimate  succession 
marks  the  transition  in  Galloway  from  the  Brehon  law 
to  feudalism.  From  that  date  lands  began  to  be  held  by 
charter  and  lease,  the  rights  of  property  began  to  be 
more  secure,  and  agriculture  began  to  be  attempted. 
De  Quincy  died  in  1264.  In  1291,  when  the  Scot- 
tish succession  was  disputed  after  the  death  of  the 
Maid  of  Norway,  one-half  of  the  lordship  of  Galloway 
belonged  to  John  Baliol,  a  son  of  Alan  by  Margaret, 
granddaughter  of  David  I.  ;  the  other  half  was  shared 
by  William  de  Ferrers,  Alan  de  Zouch,  and  Alexander 
Comyn,  Earl  of  Buchan,  husbands  of  the  three  daughters 
of  De  Quincy.  Of  the  three  last  Comyn  alone  is  of  im- 
portance in  the  history  of  Galloway.  The  Gallowegians, 
during  the  wars  of  the  succession,  naturally  sided  with 
the  Comyns  and  the  Baliols,  and  speedily  shared  in 
their  disasters.  AVhen  John  Baliol  was  obliged  to  resign 
his  dependent  crown,  Edward  I.  considered  Galloway  as 
his  own ;  and  he  immediately  appointed  over  it  a 
governor  and  a  justiciary,  disposed  of  its  ecclesiastical 
benefices,  and  obliged  the  sherifi's  and  bailiffs  to  account 
for  the  rents  and  profits  of  their  bailiwicks  in  his  ex- 
chequer at  Berwick.  In  1296  he  granted  to  Thomas  of 
Galloway  aU  the  lands,  etc.,  that  had  been  granted  to 
him  there  by  his  father  Alan  ;  and  at  the  same  time  he 
restored  all  their  former  liberties  and  customs  to  the 
men  of  Galloway.  In  1297,  WaU'ace  is  said  to  have 
marched  into  the  west  '  to  chastise  the  men  of  Gallo- 
way, who  had  espoused  the  party  of  the  Comyns,  and 
supported  the  pretensions  of  the  English  ; '  and  a  field 
in  the  farm  of  Borland,  above  the  village  of  Minnigaff, 
still  bears  the  name  of  Wallace's  camp.  During  his 
campaign  of  1300,  Edward  I.  marched  from  Carlisle 
through  Dumfriesshire  into  Galloway ;  and  though 
opposed  first  by  the  remonstrances,  and  next  by  the 
warlike  demonstrations  of  the  people,  he  overran  the 


GALLOWAY 

whole  of  the  low  country  from  the  Nith  to  the  Cree, 
pushed  forward  a  detachment  to  Wigtown,  and  compelled 
the  inhabitants  to  submit  to  his  yoke.  In  1307,  Robert 
I.  marched  into  Galloway,  and  wasted  the  country,  the 
people  having  refused  to  repair  to  his  standard  ;  but  he 
was  obliged  speedily  to  retire.  In  the  following  year, 
Edward  "Bruce,  the  king's  brother,  invaded  the  district, 
defeated  the  chiefs  in  a  pitched  battle  near  the  Dee, 
overpowered  the  English  commander,  reduced  the 
several  fortlets,  and  at  length  subdued  the  entire  terri- 
tory. Galloway  was  immediately  conferred  on  him  by 
the  king,  as  a  reward  for  his  gallantry ;  but  after  the 
death  of  Alexander,  his  illegitimate  son,  whom  the  king 
had  continued  in  the  lordship,  in  1333,  it  reverted  to 
the  crown.  When  Edward  Baliol  entered  Scotland  to 
renew  the  pretensions  of  his  father,  Galloway  became 
again  the  wretched  theatre  of  domestic  war.  In  133i, 
assisted  and  accompanied  by  Edward  III.,  he  made  his 
way  through  this  district  into  the  territories  to  the  N, 
and  laid  them  waste  as  far  as  Glasgow.  In  1347,  in 
consequence  of  the  defeat  and  capture  of  David  II.  at 
the  battle  of  Durham,  Baliol  regained  possession  of  his 
patrimonial  estatss,  and  took  up  his  residence  in  Buittle 
Castle,  the  ancient  seat  of  his  famUy.  In  1347,  heading 
a  levy  of  GaUowegians,  and  aided  by  an  English  force, 
he  invaded  Lanarkshire  and  Lothian,  and  made  Scotland 
feel  that  the  power  which  had  become  enthroned  in 
Galloway  was  a  scourge  rather  than  a  protection.  In 
1353,  Sir  William  Douglas  overran  Baliol's  territories, 
and  compelled  M'Dowal,  the  hereditary  enemy  of  the 
Bruces,  to  renounce  his  English  adherence  and  swear 
fealty  to  his  lawful  sovereign.  After  the  restoration  of 
David  II.  and  the  expulsion  of  Baliol,  Archibald 
Douglas,  the  Grim,  obtained,  in  1369,  Eastern  and 
Middle  Galloway,  or  Kirkcudbrightshire,  in  a  grant 
from  the  crown,  and,  less  than  two  years  after.  Western 
Galloway,  or  Wigtownshire,  by  purchase  from  Thomas 
Fleming,  Earl  of  Wigtown.  This  illegitimate  but  most 
ambitious  son  of  the  celebrated  Sir  James  Douglas  ob- 
tained, at  the  death  of  his  father,  in  1388,  on  the  iield 
of  Otterburn,  the  high  honours  and  the  original  estates 
of  the  house  of  Douglas ;  and  now,  while  holding  in 
addition  the  superiority  of  all  Galloway,  became  the 
most  powerful  as  well  as  the  most  oppressive  subject  of 
Scotland.  On  an  islet  in  tlie  Dee,  surmounting  the 
site  of  an  ancient  fortlet,  the  residence  of  former  lords 
of  Galloway,  he  built  the  strong  castle  of  Threave,  whence 
he  and  his  successors  securely  defied  the  enemies  that 
their  violence  and  oppression  raised  against  them. 
About  the  middle  of  the  15th  century  one  of  those  earls 
of  Douglas  and  lords  of  Galloway  carried  his  lawless  in- 
solence so  far  as,  on  the  occasion  of  a  quarrel,  to  seize 
Sir  Patrick  Maclellan  of  Bombie,  the  sheriff  of  Galloway, 
and  to  hang  him  ignominiously  as  a  felon  in  Threave 
Castle.  The  Douglases  experienced  some  reverses,  and 
were  more  than  once  sharply  chastised  in  their  own 
persons,  yet  they  continued  to  oppress  the  GaUowegians, 
to  disturb  the  whole  country,  and  even  to  overawe  and 
defy  the  crown,  till  their  tm'bulence  and  treasons  ended 
in  their  forfeiture.  James,  the  ninth  and  last  earl,  and 
aU  his  numerous  relations,  rose  in  rebellion  in  1453 ; 
and,  two  years  afterwards,  were  adjudged  by  par- 
liament, and  stripped  of  their  immense  possessions. 

The  lordship  of  Galloway  with  the  earldom  of  Wigtown 
was  annexed  to  the  crown,  and  in  1469  was  conferred, 
with  other  possessions,  upon  Margaret  of  Denmark,  as 
part  of  her  dowry  when  she  married  James  II.  But 
although  the  king  had  introduced  a  milder  and  juster 
rule,  the  troubles  of  Galloway  were  not  yet  over.  For 
some  time  after  the  faU  of  the  Douglases  it  was  occa- 
sionally distracted  by  the  feuds  of  petty  chiefs,  familiarly 
known  by  the  odd  name  of  '  Neighbour  Weir. '  Early 
in  the  16th  century  a  deadly  feud  between  Gordon  of 
Lochinvar  and  Dunbar  of  Mochrum  led  to  the  slaughter 
of  Sir  John  Dunbar,  who  was  then  steward  of  Kirkcud- 
bright ;  and,  during  the  turbulent  minority  of  James 
v.,  another  feud  between  Gordon  of  Lochinvar  and 
Maclellan  of  Bombie  led  to  the  slaughter  of  the  latter 
at  the  door  of  St  Giles's  Church  in  Edinburgh.     In 


GALLOWAY,  MULL  OF 

1547,  during  the  reign  of  Mary,  an  English  army  over- 
ran Eastern  Galloway,  and  compelled  the  submission  of 
the  principal  inhabitants  to  the  English  government ; 
and  after  tlie  defeat  of  Langside,  Mary  is  falsely  said  to 
have  sought  shelter  in  Dundrennan  Abbey,  previous 
to  her  flight  into  England  across  the  Solway.  In  the 
following  month  (June  1568)  the  regent  Moray  entered 
the  district  to  punish  her  friends  ;  and  he  enforced  the 
submission  of  some  and  demolished  the  houses  of  others. 
In  1570,  when  Elizabeth  wished  to  overawe  and  punish 
the  friends  of  Mary,  her  troops,  under  the  Earl  of  Moray 
and  Lord  Scrope,  overran  and  wasted  Annandale  and 
part  of  Galloway.  As  the  men  of  Annandale,  for  the 
most  part,  stood  between  the  GaUowegians  and  harm, 
they  expected  to  receive  compensation  from  their  western 
neighbours  for  their  service ;  and  when  they  were  re- 
fused it,  they  repaid  themselves  by  plundering  the  dis- 
trict. The  people  of  Galloway  warmly  adopted  the 
Covenant,  and  suffered  much  in  the  religious  perse- 
cutions of  the  time.  The  story  of  the  martyrs  of 
Wigtown  \vill  be  told  elsewhere.  The  rising  that  was 
crushed  by  General  Dalziel,  in  1666,  at  RuUion  Green 
had  its  beginning  at  Dairy  in  Kirkcudbrightshire. 
Among  the  strict  Cameronians  and  '  wild  western 
Whigs,'  the  men  of  Galloway  were  represented.  In  a 
happier  age  Loch  Ryan  sheltered  WUliam  II  I. 's  iieet  on 
his  voyage  to  Ireland  in  1690  ;  and  since  then  the  his- 
tory of  Galloway  has  mainly  consisted  in  the  advance 
of  agriculture  and  of  the  social  condition  of  the  people. 

Galloway  gives  name  to  a  synod  of  the  Church  of 
Scotland,  a  synod  of  the  Free  Church  of  Scotland,  and 
to  a  presbytery  of  the  United  Presbyterian  Church.  The 
former  synod,  meeting  at  Newton-Stewart,  and  includ- 
ing the  presbyteries  of  Stranraer,  Wigtown,  and  Kirk- 
cudbright, comprises  the  whole  of  Wigto^vnshire  and  aU 
Kirkcudbrightshire  W  of  the  river  Urr,  besides  Ballan- 
trae  and  Colmonell  parislies  in  Ayrshire.  Pop.  (1871) 
67,280,  (1881)  66,738,  of  whom  14,402  were  communi- 
cants of  the  Church  of  Scotland  in  1878.  The  Free  Cliurch 
synod,  having  the  same  limits,  with  the  exclusion  of  the 
two  Ayrshire  parishes,  and  divided  into  three  presby- 
teries of  the  same  names  as  above,  had  4512  members  in 
1881  ;  whUst  the  United  Presbyterian  presbytery  had 
1704  in  1880.  The  pre-Reformation  Church  of  Scotland 
liad  a  see  of  Galloway,  with  a  church  at  Whithorn  ; 
and  the  present  Roman  Catholic  Church  has  a  diocese  of 
GaUoway,  re-established  in  1878.  The  Episcopal  Church 
has  a  united  diocese  of  Glasgow  and  GaUoway. 

See  Andrew  Symson's  Description  of  Galloway 
mdclxxxiv.  (Ediab.  1823);  Thomas  Murray's  Literary 
History  of  Galloway  (Edinb.  1822) ;  William  Mackenzie's 
History  of  Galloway  (2  vols.,  Kirkc,  1841) ;  Sir  Andrew 
Agnew's  History  of  the  Hereditary  Sheriffs  of  Galloway 
(Edinb.  1864) ;  P.  H.  MacKerlie's  History  of  the  Lands 
and  their  Owners  in  Galloway  (5  vols.  Edinb. ,  1870-78) ; 
Malcolm  Harper's  Ramhles  in  Galloway  (Edinb.  1876) ; 
and  works  referred  to  under  Kirkoudbkightshire  and 
Wigtownshire. 

Galloway  House,  the  family  seat  of  the  Earls  of  Gal- 
loway, in  Sorbie  parish,  SE  Wigtownshire,  within  J  mile 
of  Rigg  or  Crtjggleton  Bay,  and  IJ  SE  of  Garliestown 
station,  this  being  9J  mUes  SSE  of  Wigtown.  Built  in 
1740,  it  is  a  plain  large  edifice,  with  projecting  wings,  a 
fine  conservatory,  beautiful  gardens,  and  a  nobly  wooded 
park  ;  and  it  commands  a  magnificent  prospect  of  the 
shores  of  Wigtown  Bay  and  the  Solway  Firth,  away  to 
the  Isle  of  Man  and  the  far,  blue  Cumberland  mountains. 
Within  hang  thirty  family  portraits,  begianing  with  Sir 
Alexander  Stewart,  who  was  thirteenth  descendant  of 
Alexander,  fourth  lord  high  steward  of  Scotland,  through 
his  younger  son.  Sir  John  Stewart  of  BonkiU  or  Bunkle, 
and  the  Stewarts  of  Dalswinton  and  Garlies,  and  who 
in  1607  was  created  Lord  Garlies,  in  1623  Earl  of  GaUo- 
way. Alan  Plantagenet-Stewart,  present  and  tenth 
Earl  (b.  1835  ;  sue.  1873),  holds  23,203  acres  in  Wig- 
townshire and  55,981  in  Kirkcudbrightshire,  valued  at 
£24,864  and  £7334  per  annum.— Or«i.  Sur.,  sh.  4,  1857. 

Galloway,  MuU  of,  a  precipitous  headland,  forming 
the  southernmost  point  of  the  Ehinns  of  Galloway,  and 

71 


GALLOWAY,  NEW 

so  of  Scotland  (lat.  54°  38'  N,  long.  4°  53'  W),  in  Kirk- 
maiden  parish,  SW  Wigtownshire.  By  water  it  is  26 
miles  E  by  N  of  Ireland,  22J  NNW  of  the  Isle  of  Man, 
and  50  W  by  N  of  Cumberland  ;  whilst  by  road  it  is  5 
miles  S  by  E  of  Drumore  and  22J  SSE  of  Stranraer.  Ex- 
tending 1 J  mile  eastward,  and  from  1 J  to  3  fm'longs  broad, 
it  rises  to  210  feet  above  sea-level  at  its  eastern  extrem- 
ity, which  is  crowned  by  a  lighthouse  that,  60  feet  high, 
was  erected  in  1828-30  at  a  cost  of  £8378.  Its  light,  sup- 
plied by  a  new  apparatus  of  1880,  is  intermittent,  visible 
for  30  and  ecUpsed  for  15  seconds  ;  and  can  be  seen  at  a 
distance  of  23  nautical  miles.  '  The  prospect  from  the 
lighthouse,' says  Mr  M'llraith,  'is  very  fine.  To  the  N  are 
the  fields  of  Cardryne,  Cardrain,  and  Mull.  Away  to  the 
eastward  stretches  the  Bay  of  Luce,  with  the  rocky  scars 
looming  through  the  sea  mist ;  and  beyond  are  the  out- 
lines of  the  Machars  and  Minnigaff  Hills.  Southward  is 
the  wild  blue  sea,  and  on  the  horizon,  very  plain  in  clear 
weather,  is  the  Isle  of  Man.  Ireland  is  discernible  in 
the  glittering  west.'  The  Novantce  of  Ptolemy,  the  Mull 
retains  remains  of  considerable  earthworks,  Scandinavian 
probably  ;  whilst,  according  to  tradition,  it  was  the  last 
asylum  of  the  two  last  of  the  Picts — '  short  wee  men  they 
were,  wi'  red  hair  and  long  arms,  and  feet  sae  braid  that 
when  it  rained  they  could  turn  them  up  o^vre  their  heads, 
and  then  they  served  for  umbrellas. '  How  they  did  not 
reveal  their  mystery  of  bremng  heather  ale  is  delight- 
fully told  in  Chambers's  Popular  FJiyvies,  though  there 
the  story  is  not  localised.  Half  a  mile  N  of  the  narrow 
neck  that  joins  the  Mull  to  the  mainland,  at  the  foot  of 
the  steep  cliffs,  is  St  Medan's  Cave  or  the  Old  Chapel  at 
the  Mull,  of  which  the  late  Mr  T.  S.  Muir  wrote  that 
'  the  cave  is  very  small,  its  length  being  only  11  feet,  its 
greatest  width  rather  over  9,  and  the  roof  so  low  as 
scarcely  to  admit  of  an  upright  posture  under  it.  In 
the  making  of  the  chapel,  which  joins  to  in  front  as  the 
nave,  so  to  speak,  of  the  chancel-like  cell,  it  is  curious 
to  observe  how  largely  the  labour  has  been  economised 
by  using  the  rocks,  which,  rising  perfectly  upright  and 
smooth,  form  its  two  side  walls.  The  builded  walls, 
which,  with  those  of  nature's  fui-nishing,  enclose  an  area 
of  nearly  15  feet  by  llj,  are  of  great  thickness,  and  are 
composed  principally  of  clay  slate,  well  put  together,  but 
without  lime.  That  fronting  the  sea,  now  little  more  than 
breast  high,  has  a  narrow  window  at  about  its  middle,  and 
there  is  a  pretty  wide  doorway  wanting  the  lintel  close 
to  the  rock-wall  on  the  S.  The  rear  wall,  covering  the 
face  of  the  crag,  rises  much  higher,  and  may  perhaps  be 
as  high  as  ever  it  was  ;  but  on  no  part  of  it  is  there  any 
trace  of  a  roof. '  Hard  by  is  the  Well  of  the  Co,  or  Chapel 
Well ;  and  here,  on  the  first  Sunday  in  May,  the  country 
people  used  to  assemble,  at  no  such  remote  period,  to 
bathe  in  the  well,  leave  gifts  in  the  cave,  and  pass  the 
day  in  gossiping  and  amusements. — Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  1, 
1856.  See  pp.  253-255  of  M.  Harper's  Sambles  in  Gallo- 
way (Edinb.  1876),  and  pp.  139-142  of  W.  M'llraith's 
Wigtorcirshire  (2d  ed.,  Dumf.,  1877). 

Galloway,  New,  a  post-town  and  royal  burgh  in  the 
parish  of  Kells,  Kirkcudbrightshire,  is  situated  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Ken,  at  the  intersection  of  the  road 
from  Kirkcudbright  to  Ayrshire  with  that  from  Newton- 
Stewart  to  Dumfries,  17i  miles  NE  by  E  of  Newton- 
Stewart,  19  NNW  of  Kirkcudbright,  25  W  of  Dum- 
fries, and  38  SE  of  Ayr.  It  stands,  200  feet  above 
sea-level,  at  the  foot  of  an  irregular  ridge  of  ground 
in  the  vicinity  of  Kenmure  Castle ;  and  it  is  sur- 
rounded by  charming  and  picturesque  scenery.  Loch 
Ken,  If  mile  SSE,  and  the  neighbouring  streams  are 
good  trouting  waters.  Although  New  Galloway  is  a 
place  of  municipal  dignity,  it  can  hardly  be  described 
as  more  than  a  village.  It  consists  for  the  most  part 
of  a  main  street  running  N  and  S,  cut  by  a  cross  street 
about  half  as  long  running  E  and  W,  and  a  scanty 
sprinkling  of  detached  houses  ;  while  the  population  has 
been  almost  stationary  in  point  of  number  for  the  last 
eighty  years.  The  burgh  is  clean  and  neat.  At  the 
centre  or  cross  stands  the  town-hall,  with  a  neat  spire, 
and  a  clock  placed  there  in  1872  by  subscription.  The 
office  of  the  Clydesdale  Bank  is  a  neat  granite  edifice. 
72 


GALLOWFLAT 

Half  a  mile  17,  but  not  within  the  royalty,  the  parish 
church  of  Kells,  built  in  1822,  raises  its  neat  stone  front 
and  square  tower.  A  handsome  stone  bridge  of  five  arches, 
erected  in  the  same  year  as  the  church,  spans  the  river 
J  mile  to  the  E.  The  station  of  New  Galloway  is  about  6 
miles  SSE  of  the  town  ;  and  a  'bus  runs  between  them 
twice  a  day.  A  sort  of  suburb  of  the  burgh,  in  tha 
form  of  a  number  of  detached  cottages,  called  the  Mains 
of  Kenmure,  lies  scattered  to  the  E  between  the  town  and 
the  bridge. 

King  Charles  I.  bestowed  upon  Sir  John  Gordon  of 
Lochinvar  a  charter,  dated  15  Jan.  1629,  empowering 
him  to  create  a  royal  burgh  of  Galloway  on  his  estates 
in  Kirkcudbrightshire.  The  site  fixed  upon  was  probably 
St  John's  Claughan  of  Dairy,  but  no  settlement  seems  to 
have  followed  this  first  charter,  which  was  changed  by 
another  charter  under  the  Great  Seal,  dated  19  Nov. 
1630,  and  confirmed  by  Act  of  Parliament  in  June  1633 


Seal  of  New  Galloway. 

Under  this  latter  charter  the  present  site  was  selected, 
and  the  burgh  privileges  seem  to  have  soon  attracted  a 
few  settlers ;  but  the  place  could  never  acquire  any  trade 
or  manufacture,  and  the  inhabitants  were  for  the  most 
part  simple  mechanics,  agricrdtural  labourers,  and  a  few 
ale-house  and  shop  keepers,  while  the  houses  were,  even 
at  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  low,  ill  built, 
straw-thatched,  and  often  dilapidated.  Since  then, 
however,  the  appearance  of  the  houses  and  the  social 
condition  of  the  people  have  made  considerable  advances. 
By  charter  the  corporation  of  the  burgh  was  to  comprise 
a  provost,  4  bailies,  dean  of  guild,  treasurer,  and  12 
councillors ;  but  by  the  sett,  as  reported  to  and  sanc- 
tioned by  the  convention  of  royal  burghs  on  15  July 
1708,  the  council  was  then  declared  to  consist  of  1  pro- 
vost, 2  bailies,  a  treasurer,  and  15  councillors.  In  1832 
the  entire  parliamentary  constituency,  as  enrolled,  was 
14,  and  consequently  it  was  quite  impossible  to  supply  a 
council  of  the  usual  number.  The  corporation  consists 
of  a  provost,  2  bailies,  and  9  councillors.  Pairs  are  held 
here  on  the  first  Wednesday  of  April  o.  s.,  and  on  the 
Thursday  of  August  before  Lockerbie.  Justice  of  Peace 
courts  are  held  on  the  first  Monday  of  every  month,  and 
steward's  circuit  small  debt  courts  on  6  Feb.,  12  April, 
and  25  Sept.  The  burgh  has  a  parliamentary  constitu- 
ency of  60,  and  unites  with  Wigtown,  Stranraer,  and 
Whithorn  in  returning  a  member  to  parliament.  The 
KeUs  parochial  school,  at  New  Galloway,  with  accom- 
modation for  193  scholars,  had  (1881)  an  average  at- 
tendance of  123,  and  a  grant  of  £115,  15s.  Valuation 
(1875)  £896,  (1882)  £1044.  Pop.  of  parliamentary 
burgh  (1841)  403,  (1861)  452,  (1871)  407,  (1881)  422,  of 
whom  232  were  females.  In  the  royal  burgh  beyond 
the  parliamentary  limits  the  population,  in  1881,  was  4. 
Houses,  inhabited  98,  vacant  8,  building  0. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  9,  1S63. 
Gallowflat,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Eutherglen 


GALLOWGATE 

parish,  Lanarkshire.  It  was  acquired,  in  1759,  by 
Pati'ick  Robertson,  W.  S. ,  whose  great-grandson,  Francis 
Robertson-Reid  (b.  1822 ;  sue.  1866),  holds  70  acres  in 
tlie  shire,  vahied  at  £4824  per  -annum.  An  ancient 
tumulus  here  was  surrounded  by  a  fosse,  out  of  which  a 
fish  pond  was  formed  in  1773,  when  a  paved  passage, 
6  feet  broad,  was  discovered  leading  up  to  the  top  of 
the  tumulus. 

Gallowgate.    See  Aberdeen  and  Glasgow. 

Gallowgreen.    See  Paisley. 

Gallowhill,  a  hamlet,  with  a  public  school,  in  Alford 
parish,  Aberdeenshire,  IJ  mileW  byS  of  Alford  village. 

Gallowslot.     See  Thrbave. 

Galston,  a  town  and  a  parish  in  the  NE  of  Kyle 
district,  Ayrshire.  The  town  stands  chiefly  on  the 
southern  bank  of  the  river  Irvine,  and  on  the  New- 
mUns  branch  of  the  Glasgow  and  South- Western  rail- 
way, 1  mile  SSW  of  Loudoun  Castle,  2  mOes  W  by  S 
of  Newmilns,  and  5  E  by  S  of  Kilmarnock,  under 
which  it  has  a  post  office,  with  money  order,  savings' 
bank,  insurance,  and  telegraph  departments.  Its  site 
is  low,  surrounded  by  gentle  rising-grounds,  and  over- 
hung on  the  N  by  the  woods  and  braes  of  Loudoun ; 
and  with  its  charming  environs  it  presents  a  very 
pleasing  appearance.  A  fine  stone  three-arch  bridge 
across  the  Irvine  unites  a  Loudoim  suburb  to  the  town, 
which  long  was  a  mere  hamlet  or  small  village,  main- 
tained chiefly  by  the  making  of  shoes  for  exportation 
through  Kilmarnock.  It  acquired  sudden  increase  of 
bulk  and  gradual  expansion  into  town  by  adoption  of 
lawn  and  gauze  weaving  for  the  manufacturers  of  Paisley 
and  Glasgow,  and  had  40  looms  at  work  in  1792,  460  in 
1828.  Weaving  is  still  the  staple  industry,  there  now 
being  seven  muslin  and  blanket  factories,  besides  a 
paper-millboard  factory  and  a  steam  saw-mill ;  and 
Galston  wields  a  considerable  local  influence  as  the 
centre  of  an  extensive  coalfield  and  of  an  opulent 
agricultural  district.  It  has  a  station,  branches  of  the 
British  Linen  Co.  and  Union  banks,  offices  or  agencies 
of  10  insurance  companies,  a  stately  pile  of  the  feudal 
times  called  Lockhart's  Tower,  4  hotels,  a  gas  company, 
and  fairs  on  the  third  Thursday  of  April,  the  first 
Thursday  of  June,  and  the  last  Wednesday  of  Novem- 
ber. The  parish  church,  erected  in  1808,  has  a  spire 
and  clock,  and  contains  1028  sittings.  Other  places  of 
worship  are  a  Free  church,  an  Evangelical  Union  chapel, 
and  a  U.P.  church,  the  last  a  handsome  recent  edifice 
in  the  Byzantine  style ;  whUst  in  Oct.  1882  a  costly 
Roman  Catholic  church  was  about  to  be  built.  Blair's 
Free  School,  an  elegant  massive  edifice,  affords  education 
and  clothing  to  103  children;  and  Brown's  Institute, 
built  by  Miss  Brown  of  Lanfine  in  1874  at  a  cost  of  over 
£3000,  comprises  reading  and  recreation  rooms,  with  a 
library  of  nearly  3000  volumes.  In  1864  the  town  par- 
tially adopted  the  General  Police  and  Improvement  Act 
of  Scotland ;  and  it  is  governed,  under  that  Act,  by  3 
magistrates  and  6  commissioners.  Valuation  (1882) 
£6633.  Pop.  (1831)  1891,  (1851)  2538,  (1861)  3228,  (1871) 
4727,  (1881)  4085,  of  whom  434  were  in  Loudoun  parish. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  hamlet  of  Allanton, 
with  parts  of  the  villages  of  Newmiln'S  and  Daevel,  is 
bounded  N  by  Kilmarnock  and  Loudoun,  E  by  Avon- 
dale  in  Lanarkshire,  S  by  Sorn,  Mauchline,  and  Ric- 
carton  (detached),  SW  by  Craigie,  and  W  by  Riccarton. 
Its  utmost  length,  from  E  to  W,  is  10  miles ;  its  breadth, 
from  N  to  S,  varies  between  1|  and  3J  miles  ;  and  its 
area  is  15,304  acres,  of  which"  60|  are  water.  Avon 
Water,  rising  in  the  south-eastern  corner,  runs  4J 
mUes  north-eastward  along  the  Lanarkshire  border. 
Cessnock  Water,  at  three  different  points,  traces  7i 
furlongs  of  the  boundary  with  Mauchline,  2f  miles  of 
that  with  Craigie,  and  1|  mile  of  that  with  Riccarton  ; 
whilst  the  river  Irvine,  from  a  little  below  its  source, 
flows  10  mOes  westward  on  or  close  to  all  the  northern 
boundary,  and  from  the  interior  is  joined  by  Logan 
Burn,  Burn  Anne,  and  several  lesser  tributaries.  Where, 
in  the  NW,  it  quits  the  parish,  the  surface  declines  to 
less  than  140  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  to  359 
feet  near  Millands,  566  near  Sornhill,  618  at  Molmont, 
€2 


GAMESCLEUCH 

797  near  Burnhead,  965  near  Greenfield,  1054  near 
Hardhill,  982  at  TuUoch  Hill,  and  1259  at  Distink- 
HORN.  A  strip  of  rich  alluvial  level,  highly  fertile 
and  well  cultivated,  lies  all  along  the  Irvine  ;  a  belt  of 
brae,  largely  covered  with  woodland,  extends  southward 
from  the  alluvial  level  to  the  distance  of  2J  miles  ;  and 
much  of  the  remaining  area  consists  of  rising-grounds 
and  hills  which,  bleak  and  sterile  till  1810,  are  now 
variously  arable  land,  good  pasture,  or  covered  with 
plantation.  In  the  extreme  E  and  SE  is  a  considerable 
tract  of  high  upland,  mostly  carpeted  with  heath  or 
moss,  and  commanding  magnificent  prospects  over  all 
Cunninghame,  most  of  Kyle,  and  a  great  part  of  Carrick, 
away  to  Arran  and  the  dim  distant  coast  of  Ireland. 
Loch  Gait,  at  the  eastern  extremity,  was  once  a  sheet  of 
deep  water,  but  now  is  a  marsh  ;  and  Loch  Bruntwood, 
too,  in  the  south-western  extremity,  has  been  completely 
drained.  The  rocks  are  partly  eruptive,  partly  car- 
boniferous. Trap  rock  appears  on  the  summits  and 
shoulders  of  many  of  the  hills  ;  coal  is  largely  mined  in 
the  W ;  sandstone,  of  a  kind  suitable  for  paving  and 
roofing  flag,  is  quarried  ;  and  limestone  also  is  worked. 
Agate  and  chalcedony,  though  seldom  of  a  character  to 
be  cut  into  gems,  are  often  found  at  Molmont ;  and  a 
beautiful  stone,  called  the  'Galstsn  pebble,'  occurs  in 
the  upper  channel  of  Burn  Anne.  The  soil  ranges  in 
character,  from  rich  alluvium  to  barren  moor.  Nearly 
two-thirds  of  all  the  land  are  arable  ;  woods  and  planta- 
tions cover  some  1000  acres ;  and  the  rest  is  either 
pastoral  or  mossy.  An  ancient  Caledonian  stone  circle 
at  Molmont  has  been  destroyed  ;  in  the  E  of  the  parish 
a  Roman  coin  of  Caesar  Augustus  was  discovered  in 
1831  ;  and  here  an  extensive  Roman  camp  above 
AUanton  has  left  some  traces.  Sir  William  Wallace 
fought  a  %dctoriou3  skirmish  with  the  English  at  or 
near  this  camp ;  he  had  several  places  of  retirement 
among  the  eastern  uplands  of  Galston  and  Loudoun; 
and  he  has  bequeathed  to  a  hill  in  the  former,  and  to  a 
ravine  in  the  latter,  the  names  of  respectively  Wallace's 
Cairn  and  Wallace's  Gill.  The  '  Patie's  MUl '  of  song 
is  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Galston  town.  Cessnock 
Castle  and  Lanfine  House  are  separately  noticed. 
Seven  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500 
and  upwards,  50  of  between  £100  and  £500,  33  of  from 
£50  to  £100,  and  11  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Giving  off 
since  1874  a  portion  to  Hurlford  quoad  sacra  parish, 
Galston  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Ayr  and  synod  of 
Glasgow  and  Ayr.  The  value  of  the  living  is  returned 
as  £298,  but  a  considerable  extra  revenue  has  of  late 
years  been  derived  from  the  working  of  minerals  in  the 
glebe.  Three  public  schools — AUanton,  Barr,  and  Gal- 
ston— with  respective  accommodation  for  53,  368,  and 
337  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  26, 
340,  and  370,  and  grants  of  £21,  17s.  6d.,  £205,  12s., 
and  £115,  12s.  lid.  Valuation  (1860)  £16,475  ;  (1882) 
£30,808,  9s.  2d.,  plus  £2614  for  railway.  Pop.  of  civil 
parish  (1801)  2113,  (1831)  3655,  (1861)  5254,  (1871)  6331, 
(1881)  5961  ;  of  ecclesiastical  parish  (1881)  576S.—Ord. 
Sur.,  shs.  22,  23,  1865. 

Galtway,  an  ancient  parish  in  Kirkcudbrightshire, 
united  about  the  year  1683  to  Kirkcudbright,  and  now 
forming  the  central  part  of  that  parish.  It  contained 
the  priory  of  St  Mary's  Isle,  subordinate  to  Holyrood 
abbey,  and  its  church  and  lands,  till  the  Reformation, 
belonged  to  that  priory.  Its  church  stood  on  high 
ground,  2  miles  SSE  of  Kirkcudbright  town,  measured 
30  feet  by  15,  and  has  left  some  traces  of  its  walls  ; 
whilst  the  churchyard,  now  completely  engirt  by  plan- 
tation, and  presenting  a  very  sequestered  appearance,  is 
still  used  by  the  Selkirk  family. 

Galval  or  Gouldwell  Castle.     See  Boharm. 

Gamescleuch,  a  ruined  tower  in  Ettrick  parish,  Sel- 
kirkshire, near  the  right  bank  of  Ettrick  Water,  If  mUe 
E  of  Ettrick  church.  It  was  built  about  the  middle  of 
the  16th  century  by  Simon,  second  son  to  Sir  John  Scott 
of  Thirlestane,  Lord  Napier's  ancestor ;  but,  according 
to  tradition,  was  never  occupied,  Simon  having  been 
poisoned  by  his  stepmother  the  night  before  his  mar- 
riage.    A  bum  on  which  it  stands  has  a  north-westward 

73 


GAMESHOPE 

inn  of  1§  mile,  and  is  flanked,  on  the  right  side,  by 
Gamescleuch  Hill,  rising  to  an  altitude  of  1490  feet 
above  sea-level. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  16,  1864. 

Gameshope,  a  small  lake  (1  x  §  furl.)  and  a  burn  in 
Tweedspiuir  parish,  Peeblesshire.  Lying  1850  feet  above 
sea-level,  within  l\  mile  of  the  Dumfriesshire  border, 
and  2  miles  NE  of  the  summit  of  Hartfell,  it  occupies 
a  lofty  upland  hollow,  and  is  the  highest  tarn  in  all  the 
Southern  Highlands.  The  burn,  rising  close  to  the 
Dumfriesshire  border,  2  mUes  E  by  N"  of  the  summit 
of  Hartfell,  runs  4|  mUes  north-by-westward  ;  receives, 
at  a  point  1^  mile  from  its  soui'ce,  a  short  small  affluent 
from  the  loch  ;  and  falls  into  TaDa  Water  at  a  point  3 
miles  SE  of  that  stream's  influx  to  the  Tweed.  Both 
the  loch  and  the  burn  abound  in  excellent  dark-coloured 
trout.— Orrf.  Siir.,  sh.  16,  1864. 

Gamhair.    See  Gauik. 

Gamhna,  a  lake  in  the  W  of  Eothiemurchus,  Inver- 
ness-shire, 1  furlong  SE  of  Loch-an-Eilein.  Lying  895 
feet  above  sea-level,  it  has  an  utmost  length  and  breadth 
of  3-i  and  1^  furlongs,  and  is  encircled  by  tall,  dark 
Scottish  pines. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  74,  1877. 

Gamrie  (12th  century  Gamcryn),  a  coast  parish  of 
Banff'shire,  containing  the  post  -  town,  seaport,  and 
station  of  Macduff,  with  the  fishing  villages  of  Gak- 
DENSTOWN  and  Crovie.  It  belongs  to  Buchan  district, 
and  is  connected  only  for  two  brief  spaces  with  the 
main  body  of  Banffshire.  It  is  bounded  N  by  the 
Moray  Firth,  E  and  SE  by  Aberdour  in  Aberdeenshire, 
S  by  King  Edward  in  Aberdeenshire,  and  W  by  Alvah, 
the  Montcoffer  or  detached  section  of  King  Edward, 
and  Bans'.  Its  utmost  length,  from  E  to  W,  is  8  J  mUes ; 
its  breadth,  from  N  to  S,  varies  between  IJ  and  4|  miles ; 
and  its  area  is  17,293J  acres,  of  which  240  are  foreshore 
and  11  water.  Torr  Burn,  running  to  the  sea,  traces 
for  3J  miles  the  eastern  boundary  ;  and  Logie  Burn, 
running  in  a  landward  direction  to  fall  eventually  into 
the  Deveron,  follows  much  of  the  King  Edward  border  ; 
whilst  the  Deveron  itself,  immediately  above  its  influx 
to  the  sea,  separates  Gamrie  from  Bans'.  Numerous 
burns  drain  the  interior,  some  of  them  running  to  the 
sea,  others  belonging  to  the  Deveron's  basin,  and  most 
of  them  traversing  romantic  dells.  Not  a  drop  of  water 
runs  into  Gamrie  from  any  other  parish  ;  but  all  its 
Imrns  either  rise  within  itself  or  merely  touch  its  bor- 
ders ;  and  several  of  them  are  highly  interesting  for 
either  the  fitfulness  of  their  course,  the  beauty  of  their 
falls,  or  the  utility  of  their  water-power.  Towards  the 
SE  is  a  very  small  lake,  the  Standing  Loch,  which  lies 
in  a  hollow  ingirt  by  hillocks,  nearly  the  highest  ground 
in  the  parish,  and  in  early  spring  is  a  nightly  resort  of 
wild  geese.  A  mineral  spring,  called  Tarlair  Well,  is 
on  the  coast  near  Macduff,  and  has  enjoyed  considerable 
medicinal  repute.  The  coast,  if  one  follows  its  bends, 
measures  fully  10  mUes  in  extent,  and  is  one  of  the 
grandest  and  most  picturesque  of  any  in  Scotland,  at- 
taining 366  feet  at  Troup  Head,  363  at  Crovie  Law, 
.536  near  More  Head,  and  404  at  Melrose  Law.  A 
rocky  rampart,  in  some  places  perpendicular,  in  all 
precipitous,  presents  everywhere  such  features  of 
savage  grandeur  as  thrill  or  overawe  the  mind.  Parts 
of  it  are  inaccessible  to  the  foot  of  man,  and  others 
bend  just  enough  from  the  perpendicular  to  admit  a 
carpeting  of  gi'eensward,  and  here  and  there  are  tra- 
versed by  a  winding  footpath  like  a  staircase,  which  few 
but  native  cragsmen  are  venturesome  enough  to  scale. 
The  summits  of  this  rampart  are  only  a  few  furlongs 
broad,  and  variously  ascend  or  decline  towards  the 
S,  then  breaking  down  in  sudden  declivities  into  ravines 
and  dells,  which  run  parallel  to  the  shore  ;  and  they 
command  sublime  views  of  the  ever-changeful  ocean  to 
the  N,  and  of  a  great  expanse  of  plains  and  woods,  of 
tumulated  surfaces  and  mountain-tops,  to  the  S  and  W. 
Several  mighty  chasms  cleave  the  rampart  from  top  to 
bottom,  and  look  like  stupendous  rents  made  by  shock  of 
earthquake ;  they  yawn  widely  at  the  shore,  and  take  the 
form  of  dells  toward  the  interior  ;  and  they  have  zigzag 
projections,  with  protuberances  on  the  one  side  corre- 
sponding to  depressions  or  hollows  on  the  other.  The 
74 


GAMRIE 

most  easterly  of  these  is  at  Cullykhan,  near  Troup 
House ;  another  is  at  Crovie  fishing  vUlage  ;  a  third, 
the  chief  one,  called  Afforsk  Den,  is  at  Gamrie  old 
church  ;  and  the  most  westerly,  called  Oldhaven,  is 
between  the  lands  of  Melrose  and  those  of  Cullen. 
Several  caverns  pierce  the  sea-bases  of  the  rocky  ram- 
part ;  and  two  of  these,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Troup, 
are  of  great  extent  and  very  curious  structure,  and  bear 
the  singular  names  of  Hell's  Lum  and  Needle's  Eye. 
The  villages  of  Gardenstown  and  Crovie  nestle  on  such 
contracted  spots  at  openings  of  the  great  rampart  as  to 
have  barely  standing  room,  requiring  even  to  project 
some  of  their  houses  into  shelves  or  recesses  of  the  accli- 
vities ;  and  are  so  immediately  and  steeply  overhung  by 
the  braes,  that  persons  on  the  tops  of  the  braes  might 
fancy  that  they  could  peer  into  the  chimneys  of  the 
houses.  The  interior  of  the  parish,  all  southward  from 
the  summit  of  the  coast  range  of  rampart,  slopes  away, 
mostly  in  a  southerly  or  south-westerly  direction,  to  the 
basin  of  the  Deveron,  and  is  finely  diversified  by  hills, 
deUs,  and  precipices,  rising  to  588  feet  above  sea-level 
at  Troup  Hill,  652  at  the  Torr  of  Troup,  643  near  Dub- 
ford,  603  near  Littlemoss,  558  near  MDlhow,  and  461 
near  Headitown.  The  rocks  possess  great  interest  for 
geologists,  and  have  been  specially  discussed  or  noticed 
by  Sedgwick,  Murchison,  Prestwick,  Hugh  Miller,  and 
others.  Granite  has  been  occasionally  worked ;  and 
greywacke,  greywacke  slate,  and  clay  slate,  in  exceed- 
ingly tilted,  fractured,  and  contorted  positions  and 
mutual  relations,  predominate  on  the  seaboard  and 
through  much  of  the  interior.  The  greywacke  is 
quarried  for  building  purposes,  and  the  clay  slate  was 
formerly  worked  at  Melrose  as  a  coarse  roofing  slate  and 
slab-stone.  Old  Red  sandstone.  Old  Eed  conglomerate, 
and  Devonian  shales  also  occur,  but  rest  so  unconform- 
ably  on  the  edges  of  the  slates,  and  present  such  faults 
and  dislocations,  that  their  connections  with  one  another 
and  with  related  rocks  cannot  be  easily  determined. 
The  soils  vary  from  a  fertile  loam  to  a  barren  benty 
heath ;  and  those  on  the  sandstone  and  conglomerate 
are  more  fertile  than  those  on  the  slate.  Woods  cover 
some  750  acres  ;  and  of  the  rest  about  one-half  is  under 
cultivation,  the  other  either  pastoral  or  waste.  Findon 
Castle,  near  the  old  church,  is  said  to  have  been  garri- 
soned by  a  Scottish  force  to  watch  and  resist  invasions 
by  the  Danes,  and  now  is  represented  by  only  a  green 
conical  mound.  The  ruins,  too,  of  Wallace  Tower, 
occupying  the  Ha'  Hill  upon  Pitgair  farm,  consist  only 
of  two  detached  masses  of  wall.  Vestiges  and  memo- 
randa of  Danish  invasion  are  in  numerous  places. 
Troup  House,  the  chief  mansion,  is  separately  noticed  ; 
and  its  owner  divides  the  best  part  of  the  parish  with 
the  Earl  of  Fife,  7  lesser  proprietors  holding  each  an 
annual  value  of  between  £100  and  £500,  13  of  from  £50 
to  £100,  and  42  of  from  £20  to  £50.  In  the  presbytery 
of  Turriff  and  synod  of  Aberdeen,  this  parish  is  divided 
ecclesiastically  into  Gamrie  proper  and  Macduff,  the 
former  a  living  worth  £415.  The  ancient  parish  church 
of  Gamrie,  St  John's,  alleged  to  have  been  founded  in 
1004  by  the  Mormaer  of  Buchan  in  place  of  one  demo- 
lished by  invading  Danes,  and  granted  by  William  the 
Lyon  to  the  monks  of  Arbroath  between  1189  and  1198, 
is  now  an  interesting  ruin,  situated  at  the  head  of 
Gamrie  Bay,  on  a  hill-terrace  in  the  mouth  of  Afforsk 
Den,  J  mile  WSW  of  Gardenstown.  The  present  parish 
church.  If  mUe  SSW  of  Gardenstown,  is  a  very  neat 
edifice  of  1830,  containing  1000  sittings.  Other  places 
of  worship  are  a  Free  church  and  those  of  Gardenstown 
and  Macduff;  and  five  schools — Bracoden,  Clenterty, 
Longmanhill,  Macduff,  and  Macduff  Murray's  Institu- 
tion— with  respective  accommodation  for  400,  150,  104, 
700,  and  100  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance 
of  194,  90,  71,  554,  and  60,  and  grants  of  £161,  9s., 
£79,  Is.,  £60,  14s.  6d.,  £494,  Os.  7d.,  and  £31,  12s. 
Valuation  (1882)  £20,633,  19s.  Id.,  of  which  £7210, 
19s.  9d.  was  for  Gamrie  proper.  Pop.  of  civil  parish 
(1801)  3052,  (1831)  4094,  (1861)  6086,  (1871)  6561, 
(1881)  6756  ;  oi  q.  s.  parish  (1881)  2652  ;  of  registration 
district  (1871)  3151,  (1881)  3106.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  96, 


GANNEL  BURN 

1876.  See  cliaps.  viii.,  x.,  xi.,  of  Samuel  Smiles's  Life 
of  a  Scotch  Naturalist  (1876). 

Gannel  Bum.    See  Gloomingside. 

Gannochy,  Bridge  of.     See  Fetteecaien. 

Ganuh  or  Gaineuuh,  a  triangular  lake  (2  x  li  furl.) 
in  the  upper  part  of  Kildonau  parish,  Sutherland,  6  miles 
W  of  Forsinard  station.  It  abounds  with  trout  and 
char.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  109,  1878. 

Garabost.    See  Gaeeabost. 

Garallaa,  a  coUier  village,  with  a  public  school,  in 
Old  Cumnock  parish,  Ayrshire,  2  miles  SW  of  Cumnock 
town.  Garallan  House  is  the  seat  of  Patrick  Charles 
Douglas  Boswell,  Esq.  (b.  1815),  who  holds  594  acres 
in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1738  per  annum. 

Garan  or  Garaahill.     See  Muirkire. 

Garan  or  An  Garbh-eilean,  an  islet  of  Durness 
parish,  Sutherland,  4|  miles  E  by  S  of  Cape  Wrath,  and 

1  mile  from  the  shore.  It  measures  3  furlongs  in  circum- 
ference and  60  feet  in  height,  and  is  a  crowded  resort  of 
sea-fowl.— OrfZ.  Sur.,  sh.  114,  ISSO. 

Garbh  Allt,  a  mountain  burn  of  Braemar,  Aberdeen- 
shire, formed  by  two  head-streams  that  rise  on  Loch- 
nagar,  and  running  1  mUe  north-by-westward  to  the 
Dee,  at  a  point  f  mile  E  of  Invercauld  bridge.  It  is  an 
impetuous  stream,  traversing  a  romantic  glen  ;  and  it 
makes  one  splendid  fall. 

Garbh  Allt,  a  mountain  burn  in  Arran  island,  Bute- 
shire. It  rises,  4  mQes  NW  of  Brodick,  on  the  eastern 
side  of  Ben  Tarsuinn,  and  runs  24  mUes  south-south- 
eastward and  east-by-northward  down  a  \vild  and  de- 
clivitous glen,  careering  and  leaping  along  a  granite 
channel  in  a  series  of  striking  falls,  till  it  plunges  head- 
long into  confluence  with  Glenrosie  Water,  at  a  point 

2  miles  WNW  of  Brodick.— Orrf.  Sur.,  sh.  21,  1870. 
Garbh  Bhreao,  a  lake  (2  x  IJ  furl.  ;  926  feet)  in  KU- 

tarlity  parish,  Inverness-shire,  SJ  miles  SSW  of  Erch- 
less  Castle.     It  abounds  in  trout. 

Garbhdhun,  a  picturesque  waterfaU  on  the  river 
<5auir,  in  Fortingall  parish,  Perthshire. 

Garbh  Mheall.    See  Fortingall. 

Garbhreisa,  an  islet  of  Craignish  parish,  Argyllshire. 
The  largest  of  a  group  of  five,  it  is  faced  with  cliff's,  and 
flanks  one  side  of  the  strait  called  the  Great  Door. 
See  Craignish. 

Garbh  Uisge,  a  reach  of  the  northern  head-stream  of 
the  river  Teith  in  Callander  parish,  Perthshire.  Issuing 
from  Loch  Lubnaig,  and  traversing  the  Pass  of  Leny, 
it  winds  SJ  miles  south-eastward,  till,  at  a  point  3  fur- 
longs SW  of  Callander  town,  it  unites  with  the  Eas 
Gobhain  to  form  the  Teith.— Ord.  Sicr.,  sh.  38,  1871. 

Garchary.     See  Dee,  Aberdeenshire. 

Garchonzie,  a  tract  of  land  on  the  mutual  border  of 
Oallander  and  Port  of  Monteith  parishes,  Perthshire, 
between  Loch  Veuachar  and  Callander  town.  A  san- 
-guinary  conflict,  in  woods  here,  was  fought  between  two 
Highland  clans. 

Garden,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Kippen  parish, 
Stirlingshire,  IJ  mile  ENE  of  Bucklyvie.  Its  owner, 
James  "Stirling,  Esq.  (b.  1844;  sue.  1856),  holds  3238 
acres  in  Stirling  and  Perth  shires,  valued  at  £2752 
per  annum. 

Gardens,  a  village  of  central  Shetland,  1  mUe  from 
Mossbank. 

Gardenstown,  a  fishing  village  in  Gamrie  parish, 
Banffshire,  in  the  mouth  of  a  romantic  ravine  at  the  head 
of  Gamrie  Bay,  8  mUes  ENE  of  Banff,  under  which  it 
has  a  post  and  telegraph  oiEce.  Founded  in  1720  by 
Alexander  Garden,  Esq.  of  Troup,  it  stands  so  close  to 
the  high  overhanging  cliffs  as  to  be  almost  directly 
imder  the  eye  of  any  one  standing  on  the  top,  and  rises 
from  an  older  part  close  upon  the  sea  to  a  newer  part 
on  ledges  and  in  recesses  of  the  cliSs.  At  it  are  a  har- 
l)our  for  fishing  boats,  a  branch  of  the  North  of  Scotland 
Bank,  an  Established  mission  station  (1873  ;  360  sit- 
tings), and  a  U.P.  church.  In  1881  the  number  of  its 
fishing  boats  was  98,  and  of  its  fishermen  and  boys  155. 
Pop.  (1841)  348,  (1861)  607,  (1871)  717,  (1881)  871.— 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  96,  1876. 

Garderhouse,  a  hamlet  in  Sandstiag  parish,  Shetland, 


GABE  LOCH 

15  miles  WNW  of  Lerwick,  under  which  it  has  a  post 
office. 

Gardnerside,  a  vDlage  near  Bellshill  in  Bothwell 
parish,  Lanarkshire. 

Garee.    See  Gareee. 

Gare  Loch,  a  branch  of  the  Firth  of  Clyde,  projects 
into  Dumbartonshire  between  the  parishes  of  Roseneath 
and  Row,  running  off  almost  due  N  from  the  upper 
waters  of  the  Firth.  The  part  of  the  Firth  of  Clyde 
lying  between  a  line  drawn  from  Roseneath  Point  to 
Helensburgh,  and  one  from  Roseneath  to  Row  Point,  is 
not  properly  included  in  the  Gare  Loch,  though  frequently 
spoken  of  as  forming  part  of  it.  This  external  portion 
is  at  first  about  IJ  mile  wide,  but  contracts  tolerably 
rapidly  to  a  breadth  of  4J  furlongs,  just  before  it  expands 
again  into  a  rude  circle,  of  wliich  Roseneath  Bay  forms 
one  hemisphere.  At  the  entrance  to  the  Gare  Loch 
proper  the  breadth  of  the  passage  is  only  1  furlong. 
The  total  length  of  the  external  portion  is  2  mUes. 
The  Gare  Loch  proper  extends  for  4J  miles  in  a  north- 
north-westerly  direction  between  the  parishes  of  Rose- 
neath on  the  W  and  Row  on  the  E,  to  within  IJ  mile  of 
Loch  Long.  For  nearly  its  entire  length  it  keeps  an 
average  breadth  of  7  furlongs,  but  about  64  from  its 
head  it  suddenly  contracts  to  3  furlongs,  which  breadth 
it  retains  to  the  northern  extremity.  Immediately 
before  this  contraction  Farlane  Bay,  on  the  E  side,  in- 
creases the  breadth  temporarily  to  nearly  7i  fmiongs. 
The  only  other  noteworthy  bay  is  Stroul  Bay,  imme- 
diately to  the  NW  of  the  narrow  entrance  to  the  loch. 
The  shores  of  the  Gare  Loch  are  low  and  shingly,  and, 
with  the  exception  of  Row  Point,  have  no  projections  of 
importance.  Carnban  Point  is  the  name  given  to  a 
blunt  angle  just  N  of  Shandon  on  the  Row  side.  The 
tidal  current  is  strong,  and  runs  at  the  rate  of  3  to 
4  miles  an  hour,  while  off'  Row  Point  especially  it  is 
forced  in  varying  directions.  The  depth  in  mid-channel 
varies  from  10  to  30  fathoms. 

The  basin  of  the  Gare  Loch  is  a  narrow  and  shallow 
cup  among  the  Dumbartonshire  hills.  Along  the  Rose- 
neath or  AV  side  the  loch  is  flanked  partly  by  the  weU- 
wooded  and  undulating  gi'ounds  of  Roseneath  Castle, 
but  chiefly  by  a  softly  outlined  chain  of  moorland  hills, 
that  nowhere  rises  to  a  greater  height  than  651  feet. 
On  the  Row  or  eastern  side  a  narrow  belt  of  low-lying 
or  gently-sloping  ground  intervenes  between  the  beach 
and  a  chain  of  rounded  summits,  that  culminates  nearly 
midway  between  Helensburgh  and  Garelochhead  at  a 
height  of  1183  feet.  Around  the  N  end  of  the  Gare  Loch, 
and  between  the  flanking  ranges  of  hills,  runs  a  semicir- 
cular connecting  link  in  the  shape  of  a  heathy  saddle,  256 
feet  high,  over  which  tower  the  lofty  containing  moun- 
tains of  Loch  Long.  The  water-basin  thus  limited  is  not 
wider  than  from  2  J  to  4  miles,  so  that  the  streams  which 
fall  into  the  Gare  Loch,  though  numerous,  are  small,  the 
longest  having  a  course  of  only  2^  mUes.  The  scenery 
on  the  Gare  Loch,  though  by  no  means  grand,  is  pic- 
turesque ;  the  outlook  from  its  mouth  towards  Ardmore 
and  Erskine,  and  the  view  of  the  lofty  Argyllshire 
hills  over  its  northern  end,  especially  so.  The  climate 
of  the  valley  of  the  Gare  Loch  is  mild  in  winter  and 
spring,  but  it  tends  to  become  sultry  and  relaxing  in 
summer.  The  rainfall  is  large  ;  and  the  wind,  though 
not  frequent  nor  strong,  is  gusty  ;  and  as  squalls  coming 
down  the  valleys  between  the  hills  are  not  infrequent, 
the  navigation  of  the  loch  is  somewhat  dangerous  for 
small  sailing  boats.  For  large  vessels,  however,  the 
Gare  Loch  aflFords  an  excellent  anchorage,  with  good 
shelter ;  and  the  measured  miles  on  which  the  speed 
and  strength  of  new  Clyde-buUt  steamers  are  usually 
tested  and  their  compasses  adjusted  is  plied  in  the  Gare 
Loch.  The  training-ship  Cumlerlavd,  in  which  boys 
are  "educated  as  seamen,  is  permanently  stationed  off 
Row.  The  various  villages  on  the  Gare  Loch  are 
favourite  summer  residences  for  sea-bathers  and  others  ; 
and  several  steamers  maintain  communication  between 
them  and  Glasgow,  Greenock,  Helensburgh,  etc.  On 
the  Row  side  of  the  Gare  Loch  are  situated,  to  the  S,  the 
outlying  portions  of  Helensburgh,  and  the  villages  ot 

75 


GAKELOCHHEAD 

Row,  Shandon,  and  Garelochhead  ;  while  tlie  intervals 
between  these  are  studded  with  mansions,  villas,  and 
ornate  cottages,  for  the  most  part  the  country  quarters 
of  the  rich  merchants  of  Glasgow  and  its  neighbourhood. 
Among  the  best  known  of  these  is  the  mansion  of  West 
Shandon,  now  largely  added  to  and  occupied  as  a  hydro- 
pathic establishment.  On  the  opposite  shore  are  the 
piers  of  Mambeg,  Rachane,  Clynder,  and  Eoseneath, 
similarly  separated  from  each  other  by  private  resi- 
dences, though  a  great  part  of  the  coast  lies  within  the 
policies  of  Roseneath  Castle,  the  property  of  the  Duke 
of  Argyll.— Orc^.  Sur.,  shs.  37,  38,  30,  1866-76. 

Garelochhead,  a  village  in  Row  parish,  Dumbarton- 
shire, just  at  its  junction  with  Roseneath  parish,  is 
pleasantly  situated  at  the  head  of  the  Gare  Looh, 
7|  miles  NN"W  of  Helensburgh,  the  nearest  station, 
and  2  miles  SSE  of  Portincaple  Ferry  on  Loch  Long. 
The  village  is  smaU,  and  contains  neat  little  houses 
standing  amidst  garden-plots  and  shrubberies,  and  it 
ranks  as  one  of  the  favourite  watering-places  on  the 
Clyde.  It  communicates  by  steamers  with  Helens- 
burgh, Glasgow,  Greenock,  etc.  The  Established  church, 
a  neat  modern  edifice,  was  built  as  a  chapel  of  ease,  and 
became  in  1874  a  quoad  sacra  parish  church.  There  are 
also  a  Free  church  and  a  public  school  in  the  village. 
Pop.  of  village  (1871)  433,  (1881)  460  ;  of  q.  s.  parish 
(1881)  751.— Orri.  Sur.,  sh.  38,  1871. 

Garf  Water,  a  rivulet  of  Wiston  and  Roberton  parish, 
in  the  upper  wai'd  of  Lanarkshire,  running  6J  miles 
eastward  along  the  southern  base  of  the  Tinto  range, 
till,  just  below  a  viaduct  of  the  Caledonian  railway,  it 
falls  into  the  Clyde  at  a  point  IJ  mile  NNW  of  Laming- 
ton  station. 

Gargunnook,  a  village  and  a  parish  in  the  N  of 
Stirlingshire.  The  village  stands  7  furlongs  SW  of 
Gargunnock  station  on  the  Forth  and  Clyde  Junction 
section  of  the  North  British,  this  being  24|  miles  ENE 
of  Balloch,  and  6  W  by  N  of  Stirling,  under  which 
there  is  a  post  and  telegraph  office.  Occupying  a 
pleasant  site  on  the  slope  of  a  rising-ground,  whose 
summit  commands  an  extensive  and  beautiful  view, 
it  is  a  neat  place,  with  little  gardens  attached  to  its 
houses. 

The  parish  is  bounded  N  by  Kilmadock  and  Kincar- 
dine in  Perthshire,  E  and  SE  by  St  Ninians,  SW  by 
Fintry,  and  W  by  Balfron  and  Kippen.  Its  utmost 
length,  from  N  to  S,  is  5|  miles ;  its  utmost  breadth, 
from  E  to  W,  is  4  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  9913j  acres,  of 
which  54|  are  water.  The  river  Forth  winds  llj  miles 
east-by-southward  along  all  the  northern  border,  though 
the  point  where  it  first  touches  and  that  where  it  quits 
the  parish  are  only  3J  miles  distant  as  the  crow  flies. 
It  here  has  an  average  breadth  of  60  feet,  with  a  depth 
of  12  feet,  and,  at  a  point  a  mile  from  the  eastern 
boundary,  approaches  close  to  Gargunnock  station.  En- 
DRiCK  Water,  in  two  of  its  head-streams,  traces  much 
of  the  south-eastern  and  south-western  borders  ;  whilst 
BoQtTHAN  Burn,  coming  in  from  Fintry,  runs  4  miles 
north-by-eastward  to  the  Forth  along  all  the  western 
boundary,  and  traverses  a  glen  so  gi'andly  romantic  and 
so  beautifully  wild  as  to  have  been  sometimes  compared 
to  the  Trossachs.  Several  burns  rise  in  the  interior, 
and  run,  some  to  Endrick  Water,  more  to  Boquhan 
Bm-n,  or  to  the  Forth ;  and  some  of  them  have  con- 
.siderable  volume,  and  rush  impetuously  down  craggy 
steeps,  forming  in  times  of  heavy  rain  far-seen  and  far- 
heard  cataracts.  Perennial  springs  are  numerous,  and 
two  chalybeate  springs  are  near  Boquhan  Burn.  The 
northern  district,  all  within  the  folds  of  the  Forth,  and 
a  short  distance  southward  thence,  is  carse  land,  from 
35  to  44  feet  above  sea-level,  and  was  covered  for  cen- 
turies by  part  of  the  ancient  Caledonian  Forest.  Passing 
thereafter  into  a  condition  of  moss  so  deep  and  swampy 
as  to  be  almost  worthless,  it  was  in  the  course  of  last 
century  completely  reclaimed,  and  thenceforth  possessed 
a  value  and  fertility  similar  to  the  Carses  of  Stirling, 
Falkirk,  and  Gowrie.  The  middle  district,  down  to  a 
line  from  nearly  2  miles  to  nearly  3J  S  of  the  Forth, 
rises  gently  from  the  carse  district,  and  lay  in  a  ne- 
76 


GABIOCH 

glected  state,  mostly  waste  and  wild,  overrun  with 
furze  and  broom,  tUl  towards  the  close  of  last  century 
it  was  thoroughly  reclaimed  by  draining  and  hedging, 
and  now  is  all  an  expanse  of  beauty,  mostly  under  the 
plough,  and  largely  embellished  and  sheltered  \vith 
wood.  The  southern  district  consists  entirely  of  the 
north-western  portion  of  the  Lennox  range,  called  the 
Gargunnock  HiUs,  whose  highest  point,  Carleatheran 
(1591  feet),  is  2  miles  SSW  of  the  village.  It  once  was 
all,  or  nearly  all,  a  moorish  waste,  but  now  in  result  of 
improvements  is  a  capital  sheep-walk,  and  commands 
from  the  summits  and  shoulders  of  its  hUls  a  wide, 
diversified,  and  splendid  prospect.  The  rocks  beneath 
the  low  lands  include  red  and  white  sandstone,  and  are 
thought  to  be  carboniferous ;  those  of  the  hUls  are 
chiefly  eruptive.  The  soil  of  the  carse  is  a  rich,  loamy 
clay,  on  a  subsoil  of  blue  or  yellow  clay,  with  subjacent 
bed  of  sea-shells ;  that  of  the  middle  district,  in  parts 
adjacent  to  the  carse,  is  a  fertile  loam,  and  elsewhere 
is  clayey  and  sandy  ;  whilst  that  of  the  hills  is  partly 
clay  and  partly  wet  gi-avel.  Of  the  entire  area,  1120 
acres  are  in  tillage ;  574  are  under  wood ;  3638  are  in 
pasture ;  and  nearly  all  the  rest  of  the  laud  is  waste. 
Keir  Hill,  near  the  village,  was  a  fortified  place  in  the 
end  of  the  13th  century,  and  appears  to  have  been  sur- 
rounded by  a  rampart,  and  defended  by  two  confluent 
streams  and  a  fosse.  It  rises  to  a  considerable  elevation, 
and  measures  140  yards  in  circumference  on  the  summit. 
Gargunnock  Peel,  on  a  rising-ground,  50  yards  from 
the  Forth  and  1  mile  NE  of  the  village,  was  erected 
seemingly  to  command  a  ford  on  the  river,  and  was 
surrounded  by  a  rampart  and  a  fosse,  but  now  is  repre- 
sented by  only  part  of  the  fosse.  Sir  William  Wallace, 
with  a  band  of  retainers,  is  said  to  have  taken  post 
upon  Keir  Hill,  whOe  an  English  garrison  held  Gargun- 
nock Peel ;  and  he  sallied  from  the  hill,  drove  the 
English  from  the  peel,  and  then  crossed  the  Forth  by 
the  Bridge  of  Offers  J  mile  higher  up.  An  ancient 
tower  belonging  to  the  Grahams  stood  on  the  lands  of 
Boquhan  ;  its  ruins  were  removed  about  the  year  1760. 
A  battle  between  the  Grahams  and  the  Leckies  was 
fought,  at  some  imrecorded  period,  on  the  western 
border  of  the  parish ;  and  here  a  great  quantity  of 
human  bones,  with  spearheads  and  fragments  of  brass 
armour,  were  exhumed  about  1800.  Gargunnock  House, 
5  furlongs  E  by  N  of  the  village,  is  an  interesting 
building,  with  a  fine  modern  front,  but  a  massive  fi 
wing  of  considerable  antiquity ;  its  owner.  Col.  John 
Stiriing  Stirling  (b.  1832 ;  sue.  1839),  holds  1881  acres 
in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1489  per  annum.  Other  man- 
sions, separately  noticed,  are  Boquhan,  Leckie,  and 
Meiklewood ;  and  3  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual 
value  of  £500  and  upwards,  3  of  between  £100  and  £500. 
Gargunnock  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Stirling  and  synod 
of  Perth  and  Stirling ;  the  living  is  worth  £246.  The 
parish  church,  at  the  village,  was  built  in  1774,  and 
contains  500  sittings.  There  is  also  a  Free  church 
station  ;  and  a  public  school,  mth  accommodation  for 
167  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  57, 
and  a  grant  of  £50,  Is.  Valuation  (1860)  £7724, 
(1882)  £8009,  19s.  6d.,  plus  £1550  for  railway.  Pop. 
(1801)  954,  (1831)  1006,  (1841)  803,  (1861)  728,  (1871) 
675,  (1881)  698.— Ore?.  Sur.,  sh.  39,  1869. 

Garie.    See  Gaikib. 

Garifad,  a  village  in  the  Isle  of  Skye,  Inverness-shire. 
Its  post-town  is  Kilmuir,  under  Portree. 

Garioch,  an  inland  district  of  Aberdeenshire.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  NE  and  E  by  Formartine,  on  the  S  by 
Mar,  on  the  W  by  Mar  and  Strathbogie,  and  on  the  NW 
by  Strathbogie.  It  has  an  area  of  about  150  square 
miles,  contains  15  parishes,  and  gives  name  to  a  presby- 
tery in  the  synod  of  Aberdeen.  It  is  bounded  or  bor- 
dered by  a  range  of  hills,  extending  about  20  mUes 
westward  from  the  vicinity  of  Old  Meldrum  ;  it  com- 
prises fertile,  warm,  well-sheltered  valleys,  notable  for 
the  salubrity  of  their  climate  ;  it  used,  on  account  of 
its  fertility,  to  be  called  the  granary  of  Aberdeenshire  ; 
it  has  long  been  famed  as  a  summer  resort  for  invalids  ; 
it  experienced  great  development  of  its  resources  from 


GARIOCH,  CHAPEL  OF 

the  opening  of  the  Inverurie  Canal,  and  now  enjoys 
better  advantages  from  the  superseding  of  that  canal  by 
the  Great  North  of  Scotland  railway ;  and  it  has  a 
farmers'  club,  dating  from  1808,  and  a  medical  associa- 
tion, dating  from  1867.  The  presbytery  of  Garioch, 
meeting  at  Inverurie  and  Insch,  comprehends  the 
parishes  of  Bourtie,  Chapel  of  Garioch,  Culsalmond, 
Daviot,  Insch,  Inverurie,  Keithhall,  Kemnay,  Kintore, 
Leslie,  Meldrum,  Monymusk,  Oyne,  Premnay,  and 
Eayne,  with  the  chapelry  of  Blairdaff.  Pop.  (1871) 
20,132,  (1881)  20,136,  of  whom  5731,  according  to  a 
Parliamentary  Return  (1  May  1879),  were  communicants 
of  the  Church  of  Scotland  in  1878.— The  Free  Church 
also  has  a  presbytery  of  Garioch,  meeting  at  Pitcaple, 
and  comprising  churches  at  Blairdafif,  Chapel  of  Garioch, 
Culsalmond,  Insch,  Inverurie,  Kemnay,  Kintore,  Leslie, 
Oyne,  and  Rayne,  which  ten  churches  together  had 
2173  communicants  in  1881. 

Gaxioch,  Chapel  of.     See  Chapel  of  Gaeioch. 

Garion,  a  place  on  the  NE  border  of  Dalserf  parish, 
Lanarkshire,  2J  miles  SE  of  Larkhall.  A  bridge 
here  over  the  river  Clyde,  erected  in  1817,  has  three 
arches,  each  65  feet  in  span,  with  a  roadway  21J  feet 
wide ;  and  measures  34  feet  in  height  from  the  bed  of 
the  river  to  the  top  of  the  parapet. 

Garleton,  a  range  of  porphyrite  hills  in  the  N  of  Had- 
dington parish,  culminating,  IJ  mile  N"  of  the  town,  at 
an  altitude  of  590  feet  above  sea-level.  A  western  spur 
is  crowned  by  a  conspicuous  column,  a  monument  to 
John,  fourth  Earl  of  Hopetoun  (1766-1823),  the  Penin- 
sular hero.  Garleton  Castle,  at  the  N  base  of  the  range, 
was  once  a  superb  mansion,  a  seat  of  the  Earls  of 
Winton,  but  is  now  a  fragmentary  ruin.  — Ord.  Sur. ,  sh. 
33,  1863. 

Garlies,  a  ruined  castle  in  Miuuigaff  parish,  Kirk- 
cudbrightshire, 2J  miles  N  by  E  of  Newton-Stewart. 
From  the  latter  half  of  the  13th  century  the  seat  of  the 
ancestors  of  the  Earl  of  Galloway,  it  gives  to  the  Earl 
the  title  of  Baron  (ere.  1607).  It  has,  for  several 
hundred  years,  been  in  a  state  of  ruin  ;  and,  though 
now  in  a  fragmentary  condition,  it  has  walls  so  very 
tightly  mortar-bouud  as  to  be  nearly  as  solid  as  rock. 

Garliestown,  a  small  towTi  and  a  bay  in  Sorbie  parish, 
SW  Wigtownshire.  Founded  about  1760,  by  John, 
seventh  Earl  of  Galloway,  then  Lord  Garlies,  the  town 
stands  on  the  W  shore  of  the  bay,  in  the  northern 
vicinity  of  Galloway  House,  and  by  the  Wigtownshire 
branch  (1875)  of  the  Caledonian  is  5  miles  NXE  of 
Whithorn,  and  9|  SSE  of  AVigtown.  It  bends  in  the 
form  of  a  crescent  round  the  bay,  and,  consisting  of 
neat  substantial  houses,  built  of  whinstone,  presents  a 
pleasant  appearance.  Rope  and  sail  making,  ship  - 
building,  fishing,  and  a  saw-mill  afford  employment. 
A  considerable  commerce  in  the  export  of  agricultural 
produce,  and  the  import  of  coal,  lime,  manures,  etc.,  is 
carried  on  from  a  harbour,  which,  naturally  good,  was 
artificially  enlarged  and  improved  about  1855 ;  and 
Garliestown  has  a  post  office,  mth  money  order,  savings' 
bank,  and  telegraph  departments,  two  hotels,  a  Congre- 
gational chapel,  a  public  school,  a  bowling  green,  and  a 
Good  Templars'  hall,  with  accommodation  for  300  per- 
sons. By  steamboat  it  communicates  with  Glasgow, 
Liverpool,  and  Douglas  in  the  Isle  of  Man.  Pop.  (1861) 
685,  (1871)  683,  (1881)  699. 

Garliestown  Bay,  striking  north-westward  from  the 
Irish  Sea  in  the  same  direction  as  Wigtown  Bay,  has  a 
breadth  of  \  mile  at  the  entrance  between  Eggerness 
Point  and  the  breakwater,  a  length  thence  of  5  furlongs 
to  its  inmost  recess,  and  a  depth  of  from  20  to  30  feet 
at  high  water,  though  at  low  tide  its  upper  part  is  aU  left 
dry.  Engirt  for  the  most  part  by  flat  sandy  shores,  but 
partly  overlooked  by  rising  grounds,  it  lies  on  a  bed  of 
such  deep  soft  clay  as  to  afford  secure  anchorage,  and  is 
admirably  adapted  to  accommodate  the  coasting  vessels 
between  many  points,  particularly  between  Dublin  and 
Whitehaven.  The  tide  runs  out  from  Wigtown  Bay  six 
hours,  and  takes  the  same  time  to  return,  but  in  Garlies- 
town Bay  it  fiows  five  h^urs  from  the  S,  and  ebbs  seven. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  4,  1857. 


GARNOCK 

Garlogie,  a  village,  with  a  woollen  factory,  in  Skene 
parish,  Aberdeenshire,  2A  miles  SW  of  Skene  Church, 
and  10  W  of  Aberdeen.  The  factory  draws  water  power 
from  Loch  Skene  ;  and  has  attached  to  it  a  commodious 
schoolhouse,  for  the  children  of  the  work-people. 

Garlpool.     See  Gaepol,  Dumfriesshire. 

Garmond,  a  village  in  llonquhitter  parish,  NW  Aber- 
deenshire, on  a  rising-ground  IJ  mile  N  by  E  of 
Curainestown,  and  7  miles  ENE  of  Turriff.  It  was  built 
in  the  latter  part  of  last  century. 

Garmouth,  a  seaport  village  in  Urquhart  parish, 
Elginshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  Spey,  |  mile 
S  of  Kingston  at  its  mouth,  4|  miles  N  by  W  of  Foch- 
abers, and  5  NE  by  E  of  Lhanbryd  station,  this  being 
3^  miles  E  by  S  of  Elgin.  A  burgh  of  barony,  under 
the  Duke  of  Richmond  and  Gordon,  it  chiefly  consists 
of  modern  liouses,  neatly  arranged  in  regular  street  lines ; 
it  has  a  harbour  naturally  good,  but  severely  damaged 
by  the  great  flood  of  1829,  and  always  subject  to  fresh 
shiftings  and  obstructions  of  ground  from  heavy  freshets 
of  the  Spey ;  and  it,  at  one  time,  conducted  a  remarkably 
large  timber  trade,  in  the  export  of  tree-trunks  floated 
down  to  it  from  the  forests  of  Glenmore,  Abernethy, 
Rothiemurchus,  and  Glenfishie.  It  still  deals  largely 
in  timber,  both  for  exportation  and  for  local  shipbuilding, 
the  latter  industry  having  somewhat  revived  in  1870, 
after  a  great  depression ;  and  it  also  imports  coal, 
exports  agricultural  produce,  and  carries  on  a  valuable 
salmon  fishery.  Garmouth  was  plundered  by  the  Mar- 
quis of  Montrose  in  the  February,  and  burned  in  the 
Jlay,  of  1645  ;  and  at  it  King  Charles  II.  landed  from 
Holland  on  23  June  1650.  It  has  a  post  office,  with 
money  order  and  savings'  bank  departments,  a  branch  of 
the  Caledonian  Bank,  gas-works  (1857),  a  fair  on  30 
June,  a  Gothic  Free  church  (1845),  \vith  an  octagonal 
tower,  and  a  public  school.  The  last,  on  an  eminence 
between  it  and  Kingston,  is  a  handsome  Elizabethan 
edifice,  erected  in  1875-76  at  a  cost  of  over  £1600. 
Pop.  (1831)  750,  (1861)  802,  (1871)  636,  (1831)  626.— 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  95,  1876. 

Garmylton.    See  Haddington. 

Garnet  Hill.     See  Glasgow. 

Garngad  Hill.     See  Gl.asgow. 

Gamkirk,  a  station,  a  seat  of  fireclay  manufacture, 
and  an  estate  near  the  southern  border  of  Cadder  parish, 
Lanarkshire.  The  station,  on  the  Glasgow  and  Gam- 
kirk section  (1831)  of  the  Caledonian  railwaj',  is  5J  miles 
ENE  of  Buchanan  Street  station  in  Glasgow,  and  4 
WNW  of  Coatbridge.  The  fireclay  works,  in  the  near 
vicinity  of  the  station,  comprise  large  buildings,  and 
produce  vases,  flower-pots,  cans,  crucibles,  water-pipes, 
and  other  articles  of  remarkable  elegance  and  dura- 
bility. The  Garnkirk  fireclaj',  occurring  in  beds  from 
4  to  19  feet  thick,  and  equal  if  not  superior  to  Stour- 
bridge clay,  resembles  light-coloured  sandstone  in 
tint,  and  withstands  a  mucli  stronger  heat  than  any 
other  fireclay  known  in  Scotland.  Its  composition  is 
53 '4  per  cent,  of  silica,  43 '6  of  alumina,  0'6  of  lime, 
1'8  of  peroxide  of  iron,  and  0'6  of  protoxide  of  man- 
ganese ;  while  that  of  Stourbridge  clay  is  63 '30  of  silica, 
23 '30  of  alumina,  073  of  lime,  1'80  of  oxide  of  iron, 
and  10-30  of  water.  Garnkirk  House,  |  mile  NNW  of 
the  station,  is  the  property  of  Alex.  Sprot,  Esq.  (b. 
1853  ;  sue.  1870),  who  holds  1792  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £4063  per  annum,  including  £1043  for 
minerals  Pop.  of  Garnkirk,  Crow  Row,  and  Heath- 
field,  (1861)  554,  (1871)  656,  (1881)  7S2.—Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  31,  1867. 

Gamock,  a  small  river  of  Cunninghame  district,  Ayr- 
shire, rising  among  the  Mistylaw  Hills,  at  an  altitude 
of  1600  feet  above  sea-level,  close  to  the  Renfrewshire 
border,  and  winding  21 J  miles  southward  till  it  falls 
into  the  Irvine,  J  mile  above  that  river's  influx  to  the 
sea,  and  unites  with  it  to  form  Irvine  harbour.  It 
traverses  or  bounds  the  parishes  of  Kilbirnie,  Dairy, 
Kilwinning,  Stevenston,  and  Irvine ;  makes,  before 
reaching  Kilbirnie  village,  a  wild  and  lonely  cataract, 
the  Spout  of  Garnock  ;  lower  down  proceeds  slowly 
through  a  fiat  fertile  country,  over  a  gravelly  bed,  with 

77 


GARNQUEEN 

an  average  breadth  of  60  feet  ;  and  receives  on  its  right 
bank  Rye  and  Caaf  Waters,  on  its  left  bank  Lugton 
and  Dusk  Waters.  Always  subject  to  freshets,  it  some- 
times overflows  its  banks  in  its  lower  reaches  with 
devastating  effects  ;  and,  on  an  autumn  day  of  1790,  it 
rose  4  feet  higher  than  it  had  ever  been  known  to  do 
before,  destroyed  a  great  quantity  of  standing  corn,  and 
carried  away  many  sheaves  to  the  sea.  The  trout  and 
salmon  fishing  is  very  fair,  the  waters  being  everywhere 
preserved.  A  viscountcy  of  Garnock  was  created  in 
1703  in  favour  of  John  Crawford  of  Eilbirnie,  whose 
grandson,  the  fourth  Viscount,  succeeded  in  1749  to  the 
earldom  of  Crawford.  It  became  dormant  in  1808. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  30,  22,  1866-65. 

Gamqueen,  a  village,  with  brickworks,  on  the  mutual 
border  of  New  Monkland  and  Cadder  parishes,  Lanark- 
shire, near  Glenboig  station.  Garnqueen  Loch  here 
receives  a  burn  fi-om  New  Monkland  parish,  and  sends 
off  one,  by  way  of  Croftfoot  MiU,  into  confluence  with 
the  burns  from  , Bishop  and  Johnston  Lochs.  Pop.  of 
village  (1871)  307,  (1881)  934. 

Garpel,  a  burn  in  Glenkens  district,  Kirkcudbright- 
shire, rising  in  Dairy  parish,  and  running  5J  miles 
south-westward,  through  that  parish  and  on  the  bound- 
ary with  Balmaclellan,  to  the  river  Ken,  IJ  mile  N  by 
E  of  New  Galloway.  It  has,  in  some  parts,  a  narrow 
rugged  channel,  overhung  by  lofty  wooded  precipices, 
and  it  makes  a  fejv  iine  falls,  the  most  picturesque  of 
which  bears  the  name  of  Holy  Linn,  and  is  associated 
witli  events  in  the  persecution  of  the  Covenanters. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  9,  1863. 

Gaxpel  Water,  a  burn  in  Muirkirk  parish,  E  Ayrshire. 

It  rises,  at  an  altitude  of  1755  feet,  close  to  the  boundary 

with  Lanarkshire,  and  runs  4J  miles  north-westward 

J  till  it  falls  into  the  river  Ayr  at  a  point  1  mile  WSW  of 

Muirkirk  to^xn.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  15,  1864. 

Garpol  or  Garlpool  Water,  a  burn  of  Kirkpatriek- 
Juxta  parish,  Dumfriesshire,  rising  close  to  the  Lanark- 
shire border  at  an  altitude  of  1300  feet,  and  winding  5| 
miles  east-by-southward,  partly  along  the  Moffat  bound- 
ary, but  mainly  through  the  interior,  till,  after  forming 
a  cascade  near  Acbincass  Castle,  it  falls  into  Evan 
Water  at  a  point  IJ  mile  SW  of  Moffat  town.  A  very 
strong  chalybeate,  called  Garpol  Spa,  near  it,  is  pro- 
perly not  a  spa  or  spring,  nor  perennial,  but  is  formed, 
fitfully  and  occasionally,  in  warm  weather,  by  rain  water 
imbibing  and  dissolving  mineral  constituents  from  fer- 
rugino-aiuminous  soil. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  16,  1864. 

Garr.     See  Gap.rt,  Auchtergaven,  Perthshire. 

Garrabost,  a  village  in  the  Eye  peninsula,  Stornoway 
parish,  Lewis,  Outer  Hebrides,  Ross-shire,  7  miles  E  by 
N  of  Stornoway  town,  under  which  it  has  a  post  office. 
A  Free  church  was  built  here  in  1881.  Pop.  (1861) 
418,  (1871)  482,  (1881)  309. 

Garraghuism  Cave.     See  Coll,  Stornoway. 

Garrallan.     See  GAr,.A.LLAX. 

Garrawalt.     See  Gakawalt. 

Garrel.     See  Gaevald. 

Garrison,  The.    See  Millport. 

Garroch,  an  estate,  with  a  modem  mansion,  in  Eells 
parish,  Kirkcudbrightshire,  5  miles  NW  of  New  Gallo- 
way. 

Garroch  Head,  a  headland,  210  feet  high,  at  the 
southern  extremity  of  Bute  island,  Buteshire,  2f  miles 
W  of  Little  Cumbrae.  The  peninsula  that  it  terminates 
is  joined  to  the  rest  of  Kingarth  parish  by  a  low  sandy 
isthmus  9i  furlongs  wide,  and,  with  an  utmost  length 
and  breadth  of  2J  and  2  miles,  attains  485  feet  at  Torr 
Mor,  119  at  Dunagoil,  and  517  at  Suidhe  Plantation, 
near  the  SW  shore  of  Kilchattan  Bay.  See  St  Blane's 
Chapel  and  Devil's  Cauldron. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  21, 
1870. 

Garroohory.    See  Garaohaky. 

Garron,  a  headland  in  Fetteresso  parish,  Kincardine 
shire,  flanking  the  N  side  of  Stonehaven  Bay.  It  con- 
sists of  a  light  green  coloured  rock,  of  intermediate 
character  between  trap  and  serpentine,  and  passing  into 
chloride  slate. 

Garry,  a  burn  in  Auchtergaven  parish,   Perthshire. 
78 


GAESCUBE 

It  rises  in  boggy  ground  at  the  head  of  Glen  Garr,  a  hill 
pass  on  the  mutual  border  of  Auchtergaven  and  Little 
Dnnkeld  parishes  ;  rims  7i  miles  south-eastward,  past 
Auchtergaven  manse  ;  receives  the  tribute  of  Corral 
Burn  ;  and  falls,  at  Leak,  into  Ordie  Bum. — Ord.  Sur., 
shs.  47,  48,  1869-68. 

Garry,  a  lake  and  a  river  of  Blair  Athole  parish,  N 
Perthshire.  Lying  1330  feet  above  sea-level,  and  having 
a  maximum  width  of  2J  furlongs,  Loch  Garry  extends 
2g  miles  north-north-eastward  to  within  |  mile  of  Dalna- 
spidal  station  on  the  Highland  railway.  It  is  screened, 
all  round,  by  bare,  loft}',  rugged  mountains  ;  receives  a 
dozen  mountain  torrents,  flowing  to  it  through  gorges 
among  the  mountains  ;  and  exhibits  a  wild,  sequestered 
aspect,  being  in  some  parts  so  closely  beset  by  its  moim- 
tain  screens,  as  to  have  scarcely  a  foot-breadth  of  shore. 
Its  trout  are  numerous,  but  small  and  shy.  The  river 
Garry,  issuing  from  the  foot  of  the  lake,  runs  22  miles 
east-south-eastward,  mainly  through  Blair  Athole  parish, 
but  over  the  last  5  miles  of  its  course,  below  Blair  Athole 
village,  along  the  borders  of  Dnll  and  Moulin  parishes, 
till,  at  FaskaUy  House,  below  the  Pass  of  Killie- 
CEANKIE,  it  falls  into  the  Tummel,  after  a  total  descent  of 
nearly  1000  feet.  It  receives,  on  its  left  bank,  the  Eden- 
don,  Ender,  Bruar,  TUt,  and  AUt  Girnaig,  and  on  its  right 
the  Erichdie  ;  is  closely  followed,  from  head  to  foot,  by 
the  Highland  railway  and  by  the  great  road  from  Inver- 
ness to  Perth ;  and  changes,  in  scenic  character,  from 
alpine  wildness  and  dismal  bleakness  to  a  rich  variety 
of  picturesqueness.  One  of  the  most  impetuous  rivers 
of  Scotland,  it  is,  as  the  Queen  writes,  '  very  fine,  rolling 
over  large  stones,  and  forming  perpetual  falls,  with  birch 
and  mountain-ash  growing  down  to  the  water's  edge. ' 
In  times  of  freshet  it  comes  down  with  sudden  burst 
and  tumultuous  fury,  tearing  up  its  slaty  or  gravelly  bed, 
carrying  off  heavy  fragments,  and  menacing  the  very 
cliff's  upon  its  banks. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  54,  55,  1873-69. 

Garry,  a  river  and  a  lake  in  Glengaeky  district,  In- 
verness-shire. The  river,  issuing  from  the  foot  of  Loch 
QuoiOH  (555  feet  above  sea-level),  runs  lOJ  miles  east- 
ward to  Loch  Garry  (258  feet),  on  emerging  from  which 
it  winds  3J  miles  south-eastward  and  east-by -northward, 
till  it  falls  into  Loch  Oich  (105  feet),  on  the  line  of  the 
Caledonian  Canal,  at  Invergaeey,  74  miles  SW  of  Fort 
Augustus.  Loch  Garry  is  thus  an  expansion  of  the 
river,  having  a  length  of  4J  miles  east-bj'-northward, 
with  a  varying  width  of  1  furlong  and  -|  mile.  It  lies 
in  a  beautifnl  glen,  with  lofty  receding  mountains,  and, 
immediately  engirt  by  a  series  of  low,  swelling,  birch- 
clad  eminences,  bursts  into  view,  from  foot  to  head,  at 
a  point  near  its  eastern  extremity.  Towards  its  foot  it 
contains  a  little  island,  by  which  and  a  peninsula  it  is 
almost  divided  in  two.  Both  lake  and  river  abound  in 
salmon,  salmo-ferox,  and  trout. —Ord  Sur.,  shs.  62,  63, 
1875-73. 

Garrynahine,  a  hamlet  in  Uig  parish,  Lewis,  Outer 
Hebrides,  Eoss-shire,  at  the  head  of  Loch  Eoag,  14 
miles  W  by  S  of  Stornoway,  under  which  it  has  a  post 
office.     Here,  too,  is  a  good  hotel. 

Garscadden,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion  and  a  village, 
in  New  Kilpatrick  parish,  Dumbartonshire.  Held  by 
successively  the  Flemings,  the  Erskines,  and  the  Gal- 
hraiths,  the  estate  passed  about  1664  to  the  Campbell 
Colquhouns  of  Killermont.  The  mansion,  standing  If 
mile  WSW  of  Bearsdeu  station  and  3  miles  WNW  of 
MaryhUl,  is  remarkable  for  a  castellated  Gothic  gate- 
way, larger  and  more  imjiosing  than  any  similar  structure 
in  the  W  of  Scotland.  The  work  of  a  fanciful  architect 
near  Paisley,  named  Charles  Ross,  this  gateway  was  for- 
merly embellished  with  fantastic  ornaments,  and  much 
visited  by  pedestrians  from  Glasgow  and  Paisley  as  a 
nine-days'  wonder ;  and,  though  now  stripped  of  its  orna- 
ments, is  still  somewhat  of  an  architectural  curiosity. 
Pop.  of  the  village  (1871)  602,  (1881)  6i9.— Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  30,  1866. 

Garscube,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  New  Kilpatrick 
parish,  Dumbartonshii-e.  The  mansion,  standing  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  river  Kelvin,  1  mile  NW  of  Maryhill 
station  and  5  miles  NW  of  Glasgow,  was  erected  in 


GARTCOSH 

1827,  after  designs  by  "W.  Burn,  in  tlie  Elizabethan 
style,  and  has  very  beautiful  gi'ounds.  Acquired  by  the 
Colquhouns  in  1558,  the  estate  of  Garscube  passed  about 
the  middle  of  the  17th  century  to  John  Campbell  of 
Succoth,  whose  descendant,  Islay  Campbell,  was  created 
Lord  Advocate  in  178i,  President  of  the  Court  of  Ses- 
sion under  the  title  of  Lord  Succoth  in  1789,  and  a 
baronet  in  1808.  His  son.  Sir  Archibald,  became  a 
Lord  of  Session  in  1809,  also  under  the  title  of  Lord 
Succoth  ;  and  Ms  grandson.  Sir  George  (1829-74),  held 
2395  acres  in  Dumbartonshire,  926  in  Stirlingshire,  and 
253  in  Lanarkshire,  valued  respectively  at  £6257,  £1567, 
and  £571  per  annum.  He  was  succeeded  as  fifth  Bart., 
by  his  cousin,  Archibald  Spencer  Lindsay  Campbell  (b. 
1852).— Ort«.  Sur.,  sh.  30,  1866. 

Gartcosh,  a  village  and  station  in  Cadder  parish, 
Lanarkshire,  on  the  Caledonian  railway,  2  j  miles  NW 
of  Coatbridge  and  7  ENE  of  Glasgow.  Near  it  are 
Gartcosh  Fireclay  Works.     Pop.  (1881)  356. 

Gartferry,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Cadder 
parish,  Lanarkshire,  2i  miles  NNE  of  Garnkirk  station. 

Garth,  a  village  in  Delting  parish,  Shetland,  2  miles 
from  Mossbank. 

Garth  Castle,  a  mansion  in  Fortingall  parish,  NW 
Perthshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Lyon,  IJ  mile  ENE 
of  Fortingall  hamlet,  and  7  miles  W  by  S  of  Aberfeldy. 
It  was  the  birthplace  of  Major-General  David  Stewart 
(1772-1829),  Governor  of  St  Lucia,  and  author  of 
Sketches  of  the  Highlanders ;  and  the  seat  of  Sir  Archi- 
bald Campbell,  G.C.B.,  Bart.  (1770-1843),  Governor  of 
New  Bnmswick  and  commauder-in-chief  in  the  Burmese 
war.  Now  it  is  the  property  of  Sir  Donald  Currie, 
K.C.M.G.  (b.  1825),  who  purchased  the  estate  for 
£51,000  in  1880,  the  year  of  his  election  as  Liberal 
member  for  Perthshire,  and  who  has  built  a  consider- 
able addition,  including  a  tower.  Old  Garth  Castle,  2J 
miles  NNE,  near  the  right  bank  of  Keltney  Burn,  is  a 
ruinous  square  keep,  crowning  a  rocky  promontory  150 
feet  high.  It  was  a  stronghold  of  Alexander  Stewart, 
Earl  of  Buchan  (the  '  Wolf  of  Badenoch '),  in  the  latter 
half  of  the  14th  century.— Ord  Sxir.,  sh.  55,  1869. 

Garth  Castle  or  Caisteal  Dubh,  a  ruined  fortalice  in 
Moulin  parish,  Perthshire,  among  a  larch  plantation 
J  mile  SE  of  Moulin  village.  It  looks,  from  its  style  of 
architecture,  to  have  been  built  in  the  11th  or  12th 
century,  but  is  unknown  to  record. 

Garthland,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Lochwin- 
noch  parish,  Renfrewshire,  in  the  western  vicinity  of 
Lochwinnocli  town.  Purchased  by  his  ancestor  in  1727, 
it  belongs  to  Henry  Macdowall,  Esq.  (b.  1845  ;  sue. 
1882),  who  holds  2825  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at 
£2707  per  annum. 

Garthland  Mains,  a  farm  in  Stoneykirk  parish,  Wig- 
townshire, of  miles  SSE  of  Stranraer.  Here  in  1840 
was  demolished  a  square  tower,  which,  45  feet  high, 
bore  on  its  battlements  the  date  1274,  and  was  long  the 
stronghold  of  the  ancient  and  powerful  family  of  the 
M'Dowalls. 

Gartinqueen  Loch.    See  Gaknqiteen. 

Gartloch,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Cadder  parish, 
Lanarkshire,  on  the  NW  shore  of  Bishop's  Loch,  1  mile 
SSE  of  Garnkirk  station. 

Gartly,  a  parish  of  NW  Aberdeenshire,  comprising  a 
detached  portion  of  Banffshire,  and,  near  its  southern 
border,  containing  Gartly  station  on  the  Great  North  of 
Scotland  railway,  5  miles  S  of  Huntly  and  35^  NW  of 
Aberdeen,  with  a  post  and  railway  telegraph  ofSce. 
Bounded  NE  by  Drumblade,  SE  by  Insch,  S  by  Een- 
nethmont  and  Khynie,  W  by  Cabrach  and  Glass  in 
Banifshire,  and  NW  and  N  by  Huntly,  it  has  an  utmost 
length  from  E  to  W  of  lOJ  miles,  an  utmost  breadth 
from  N  to  S  of  4J  miles,  and  an  area  of  1S,126J  acres,  of 
which  3S|  are  water,  and  6348f  belong  to  the  Banifshire 
section.  The  Bogie  winds  3f  miles  northward  through 
the  interior,  having  the  Barony  or  Banffshire  section  to 
the  E  and  the  Braes  or  Aberdeenshire  section  to  the  W, 
and  then  proceeds  \\  mile  north-north-westward  along 
the  Drumblade  border.  The  Urt  has  its  source  in  the 
E  of  the  Barony  ;  and  the  Braes  is  drained  to  the  Bogie 


GARTMOEE 

by  Kirkney  Burn  and  by  Lag  Burn  and  Priest's  Water, 
uniting  to  form  Ness  Bogie,  whose  lateral  vales,  as  also 
Strathbogie  itself,  abound  in  charming  scenes  of  quiet 
pastoral  beauty.  The  surface  is  hilly,  sinking  along  the 
Bogie  to  386  feet  above  sea-level,  and  thence  ascending 
in  the  Barony  section  to  632  feet  at  Birkenhill,  1029  at 
Wind's  Eye,  1375  at  Wishach  Hill,  and  1369  at  the 
Hill  of  Corskie  ;  in  the  Braes,  to  1148  at  the  *  southern 
shoulder  of  Clashmaoh  Hill,  1069  at  the  Hill  of  Col- 
lithie,  1495  at  the  *Hill  of  Kirkney,  1263  at  the  *Hm 
of  Bogairdy,  1248  at  Slough  Hill,  1086  at  the  Hill  of 
Drumfergue,  and  1724  at  *Grumack  Hill,  where  asterisks 
mark  those  summits  that  culminate  right  on  the  borders 
of  the  parish.  Basalt  or  greenstone  appears  along 
Kirkney  Burn,  but  the  rocks  are  mainly  Silurian— 
greywacke,  with  strata  of  limestone  and  laminate  clay 
slate,  which,  grey  or  bluish-green  in  hue,  has  been 
largely  quarried  at  Corskie.  The  soil  in  Strathbogie 
and  in  the  transverse  vales  is  for  the  most  part  a  fertile 
clay  loam  ;  that  of  the  Barony  is  light  and  sandy,  in- 
cumbent on  a  hard  retentive  subsoil.  A  good  many 
acres  have  been  reclaimed  since  1841,  but  barely  a  third 
of  the  entire  area  is  in  tillage,  the  rest  being  either 
pasture,  moor,  moss,  or  a  scanty  proportion  of  wood. 
From  the  12th  to  the  16th  century,  the  Barony  of 
Gartly  belonged  to  a  branch  of  the  Barclays,  who,  as 
hereditary  high  sheriffs  of  Banffshire,  procured  its 
annexation  to  that  county ;  at  their  castle  here  (now 
in  ruins)  Queen  Mary  spent  a  night  of  October  1562, 
the  month  of  the  Battle  of  Corrichie.  A  number  of 
cairns  that  formerly  stood  on  Millhill  farm,  near  the 
parish  church,  are  believed  to  have  been  sepulchral 
monuments  of  a  skirmish  fought  there  after  the  Battle 
of  Harlaw,  and,  being  opened  and  removed  about  the 
year  1801,  were  found  to  contain  some  broken  fragments 
of  armour.  Of  other  and  more  ancient  cairns  on  Faich- 
hill  and  Riskhouse  farm,  one  was  found  to  contain  a 
funereal  urn ;  in  the  Braes  were  four  pre-Reformation 
chapels.  John  Barclay  (1546-1605),  jurist  and  satirist, 
was  probably  a  native.  The  Duke  of  Richmond  and 
Gordon  is  sole  proprietor.  Gartly  is  in  the  presbytery 
of  Strathbogie  and  synod  of  Moray  ;  the  living  is  worth 
£361.  The  parish  church,  near  the  right  bank  of  the 
Bogie,  2  miles  N  by  E  of  Gartly  station,  is  a  handsome 
Gothic  edifice  of  1880,  mth  400  sittings  and  E  and  W 
gable  rose-windows  filled,  like  the  rest,  with  cathedral 
glass.  Its  predecessor  was  a  plain  old  building  of  1621, 
originally  dedicated  to  St  Andrew.  A  Free  church 
stands,  across  the  river,  9  furlongs  to  the  NW  ;  and 
Barony  public.  Braes  public,  and  Gartly  female  schools, 
with  respective  accommodation  for  82,  60,  and  50 
children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  42,  21, 
and  32,  and  grants  of  £33,  3s.,  £28,  10s.,  and  £28,  Is. 
Valuation  (1860)  £5165,  (1883)  £6301,  6s.  lOd.  Pop. 
(ISOl)  958,  (1831)  1127,  (1861)  1029,  (1871)  972,  (1881) 
890,  of  whom  476  were  in  Aberdeenshire,  and  414  in 
BanS'shire. -OrfZ.  Sur.,  sh.  86,  1876. 

Gartmore,  a  village  and  a  quoad  sacra  parish  in  Port 
of  Monteith  parish,  SW  Perthshire.  The  village  stands 
on  the  peninsula  between  the  river  Forth  and  Kelty 
Water,  4J  miles  NW  of  Bucklyvie,  and  1  mile  from 
Gartmore  station  on  the  Strathendiick  and  Aberfoyle 
railway  (1882).  It  has  a  post  office  under  Stirling,  and 
a  free  library,  the  gift  of  Mr  John  M 'Donald,  a  Glasgow 
merchant.  Gartmore  House,  J  mile  NE  of  the  village, 
is  a  commodious  mansion,  a  seat  of  William  Cunning- 
hame  Graham-Bontine,  Esq.  of  Ardoch  and  Gartmore 
(b.  1825 ;  sue.  1863),  who  owns  2009  acres  in  Perthshire, 
6931  in  Stirlingshire,  and  1940  in  Dumbartonshire, 
valued  respectively  at  £1499,  £4134,  and  £2662  per 
annum.  The  parish,  constituted  in  July  1869,  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Dunblane  and  sjmod  of  Perth  and  Stir- 
ling ;  its  minister's  stipend  is  £120,  with  a  manse.  The 
church,  built  as  a  chapel  of  ease  in  1790  at  a  cost  of 
£400,  underwent  great  improvements  in  1872,  and  con- 
tains 415  sittings.  There  is  also  a  Free  church ;  and 
Gartmore  public  and  Dalmary  sessional  school,  with  re- 
spective accommodation  for  135  and  54  children,  had 
(1881)  an  average  attendance  of  83  and  42,  and  grants 

79 


GAETMORN  DAM 

of  £78,  10s.  6(1.,  and  £43,  Os.  2d.  Pop.  of  q.  s.  parish 
(1871)  353,  (1881)  718,  of  whom  343  were  in  Drymen 
parish,  Stirlingshire. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  38,  1871. 

Gaxtmom  Dam,  a  reservoir  on  the  mutual  border  of 
Alloa  and  Clackmannan  parishes,  Clackmannanshire,  2 
miles  ENE  of  Alloa  town.  Formed  about  the  year  1700, 
and  repaired  and  improved  in  1827  and  1867,  it  has  an 
utmost  length  and  breadth  of  6  and  2J  furlongs  ;  is  fed 
from  the  Black  Devon  rivulet  in  Clackmannan  parish  ; 
and  supplies  water-power  for  the  machinery  of  Alloa 
Colliery  and  of  several  factories. — Ord.  Sur., sh.  39,1869. 

Gartnavel.     See  Glasgow. 

Gartness,  a  village,  with  iron-works,  in  Shotts  parish, 
Lanarkshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  North  Calder  Water, 
2  miles  ESE  of  Airdrie. 

Gartness,  a  station  and  an  estate  on  the  W  border  of 
Stirlingshire.  The  station  is  on  the  Forth  and  Clyde 
Junction  section  of  the  North  British  railway,  IJ  mile 
ENE  of  Drymen  station,  and  22  miles  WSW  of  Stirling. 
The  estate  lies  around  the  station,  along  Endrick 
Water,  on  the  mutual  border  of  Drymen  and  Killearn 
parishes ;  and  possesses  much  interest,  both  for  its 
scenery  and  for  association  with  the  life  and  labours  of 
John  Napier  of  Merehiston  (1550-1617),  the  inventor  of 
logarithms.  Endrick  Water  here,  over  a  run  of  J  mile, 
traverses  a  natural  cleft  in  the  solid  rock,  and  rushes 
vexedly  over  a  series  of  mural  ledges  ;  in  one  part,  it 
passes  through  a  caldron-shaped  cavity,  the  Pot  of 
Gartness,  and  forms  there  a  picturesque  cascade.  A 
woollen  factory  hard  by  succeeded  an  ancient  mill,  the 
noise  of  which,  along  with  that  of  the  cataract,  disturbed 
the  mathematician  amid  his  studies.  Though  falsely 
claimed  as  a  native  of  Gartness,  he  at  least  was  the 
member  of  a  family  who  held  the  estate  from  1495, 
and  he  is  known  to  have  resided  here  at  various  periods 
of  his  life,  and  here  to  have  prosecuted  those  studies 
which  have  immortahsed  his  name.  An  old  castle, 
overhanging  the  Pot  of  Gartness,  was  his  place  of  resi- 
dence, and  has  left  some  fragments  ;  a  stone  taken  from 
its  ruins,  and  bearing  the  date  1674,  is  built  into  the 
gable  of  the  factory ;  and  some  stones,  with  markings  or 
engravings  on  them  believed  to  have  been  made  by 
him,  are  in  possession  of  the  present  proprietor  of  the 
estate.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  30,  1866. 

Gartney  or  Strathgartney,  an  upland  tract  in  the  W 
of  Callander  parish,  Perthshire,  along  the  northern 
shore  of  Loch  Katrine. 

Gartsherrie,  a  suburban  town  and  a  quoad  sacra 
parish  in  Old  Monkland  parish,  Lanarkshire.  The 
town  is  partly  identical  Avith  the  E  side  of  Coatbridge, 
partly  extends  about  a  mile  to  the  NNW  ;  and,  lying 
along  the  Monkland  Canal  and  reaches  of  the  Cale- 
donian and  North  British  railway  systems,  presents  an 
urban  aspect  throughout  its  identity  with  Coatbridge, 
and  a  strictly  suburban  aspect  in  its  north-westward  ex- 
tension. It  contains,  in  its  urban  part,  the  parish 
church  and  a  large  academy, — in  its  suburban  part, 
extensive  iron -works  and  dwelling-houses  for  the 
operatives  in  these  works,  being  collectively  the  most 
prominent  of  the  seats  of  iron  manufacture  which  give 
to  Coatbridge  district  its  characteristic  aspect  of  flame 
and  smoke  and  busy  traffic.  It  has  a  station  of  its  own 
name  on  the  Caledonian  railway,  near  the  forking  of  the 
line  towards  respectively  Glasgow  and  Stirling,  \\  mile 
NNW  of  Coatbridge  station.  The  church,  crowning  an 
eminence  f  mile  S  of  the  iron-works,  was  built  in  1839 
at  a  cost  of  £3300,  chiefly  defrayed  by  Messrs  Baird.  A 
handsome  edifice,  with  a  spire  136  feet  high,  it  figures 
in  the  general  landscape  as  a  striking  feature  of  Coat- 
bridge, and  contains  1050  sittings.  The  academy,  near 
the  church,  is  also  a  handsome  and  prominent  edifice, 
and  supplies  a  liberal  course  of  instruction,  under  a 
rector  and  three  male  and  two  female  assistants.  It 
and  a  school  at  the  iron-works,  with  respective  accom- 
modation for  666  and  612  children,  had  (1881)  an  aver- 
age attendance  of  400  and  253,  and  grants  of  £417,  8s. 
and  £188,  15s.  The  iron-works  of  Messrs  Baird,  first 
put  in  blast  on  4  May  1830,  are  among  the  best  organ- 
ised manufactories  in  Scotland,  and  have  long  had  a 
80 


GARVALD 

wide  and  high  reputation  for  producing  iron  of  superior 
quality.  The  furnaces,  fourteen  in  number,  stand  in 
two  rows,  one  on  each  side  of  the  canal,  and  about  40 
yards  distant  from  it.  Built  at  different  periods,  in 
different  patterns,  they  have  generally  a  cylindrical 
shape,  22  feet  in  diameter  and  60  high  ;  are  worked  on 
the  hot-blast  system  ;  and  have  four  engines  for  generat- 
ing the  blast,  three  on  one  side  of  the  canal,  one  on  the 
other  side,  and  the  four  with  an  aggregate  power  equal 
to  750  horse.  There  are  400  workmen's  houses,  each 
with  two  or  three  apartments,  a  small  garden  plot,  and 
a  cheap  supply  of  gas  and  water.  Gartsherrie  House, 
near  the  station,  is  a  modern  mansion,  a  seat  of  George 
Frederick  Russell  Colt,  Esq.  (b.  1837  ;  sue.  1862),  who 
owns  1416  acres  in  Lanarkshire,  valued  at  £6421  per 
annum,  of  which  £4023  is  for  minerals.  It  was  the 
residence  and  death-place  of  Alexander  Whitelaw,  Esq. 
(1823-79),  Conservative  member  for  Glasgow  from  1874. 
The  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Hamilton  and  synod 
of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  was  endowed  entirely  by  the 
late  James  Baird,  Esq.  of  Cambusdoon  ;  its  minister's 
stipend  is  £120.  Pop.  of  parish  (1871)  10,041,  (1881) 
9070.— Orti.  Sur.,  sh.  31,  1867.  See  Andrew  Miller's 
Rise,  and  Progress  of  Coatbridge  and  the  Surrounding 
Neighbourhood  (Glasg.  1864). 

Gartshore,  an  estate,  v/iih  a  mansion,  in  Kirkintilloch 
parish,  DumlDartonshire.  The  mansion,  standing  3  miles 
E  of  Kirkintilloch  town,  is  a  fine  old  edifice,  with  beau- 
tiful surrounding  woods.  The  estate  was  purchased,  a 
few  years  before  his  death,  by  Alexander  Whitelaw, 
Esq.,  who  owned  1710  acres  in  Dumbartonshire,  valued 
at  £5755  per  annum,  of  which  £3781  was  for  minerals. 
See  Gartsherrie. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  31,  1867. 

Gart,  The,  a  fine  mansion  in  Callander  parish,  Perth- 
shire, on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  Teith,  IJ  mile  SE  of 
the  village.  Built  about  1832  by  Admiral  Sir  William 
Houston  Stewart,  it  now  is  the  seat  of  Daniel  Ainslie, 
Esq.,  who  holds  180  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at 
£212  per  annum. 

Garturk,  a  quoad  sacra  parish  in  the  south-eastern 
district  of  Old  Monkland  parish,  Lanarkshire.  It  was 
constituted  in  January  1870  ;  and  its  post-town  is  Coat- 
bridge, IJ  mile  to  the  NW.  It  comprises  a  compact 
area,  including  the  villages  of  Whifflet,  Rose  hall, 
and  Calder,  and  also  the  Calder  Iron-works,  belonging 
to  the  firm  of  William  Dixon  (Limited).  These  works 
are  interesting,  as  the  place  where  the  famous  and  valu- 
able blackband  ironstone,  which  has  proved  such  a 
source  of  wealth  to  Scotland,  was  first  discovered.  The 
discovery  was  made  in  1805  by  Robert  Mushet,  from 
whom  it  received  the  name  of  '  Mushet  Blackband,'  and 
as  such  it  is  still  known.  In  this  parish  there  are  also 
several  other  large  iron  and  engineering  works,  and 
numerous  coal  mines  of  considerable  depth.  The  parish, 
which  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Hamilton  and  synod  of 
Glasgow  and  Ayr,  was  endowed  at  a  cost  of  upwards  of 
£8000,  of  which  £1500  was  from  the  General  Assembly's 
Endowment  Fund,  the  remainder  being  raised  by  volun- 
tary subscription.  The  church,  erected  in  1869  and 
renewed  in  1880,  is  a  handsome  edifice — the  interior, 
which  is  richly  ornamented,  being  one  of  the  finest 
specimens  of  the  Decorated  style  to  be  seen  in  this  part 
of  the  country.  Adjoining  the  church  and  under  the 
same  roof  with  it  is  a  very  comfortable  manse,  prettily 
situated  amidst  a  plantation  of  trees.  The  parish  con- 
tains two  good  schools — one  close  beside  the  church, 
supported  by  the  proprietors  of  Calder  Iron-works  ;  the 
other  in  Rosehall,  maintained  by  the  o^vners  of  Rosehall 
colliery.  With  respective  accommodation  for  227  and 
173  children,  these  schools  had  (1881)  an  average  at- 
tendance of  278  and  208,  and  grants  of  £238,  9s.  and 
£172,  Is.  Pop.  (1871)  3883,  (1881)  4266.— Ord  Sur., 
sh.  31,  1867. 

Garvald,  a  vUlage  and  a  parish  in  Haddingtonshire. 
The  village  stands  towards  the  N  of  the  parish,  450  feet 
above  sea-level,  on  the  left  bank  of  Papana  Water,  5J 
miles  S  of  East  Linton  station,  and  5|  ESE  of  Hadding- 
ton ;  it  has  a  post  office  under  Prestonkirk. 

The  present  parish,  comprising  the  ancient  parishes  of 


GARVALD 

■Garvald  and  Bara,  united  in  1702,  is  bounded  N,  NE, 
E,  and  SE  by  Whittiugham,  S  by  Lauder  in  Berwick- 
shire, W  by  Yester  and  Haddington,  and  NW  by  Morham. 
Its  utmost  length,  from  NNE  to  SSW,  is  8^  miles  ;  its 
breadth  varies  between  If  and  4J  miles ;  and  its  area 
is  13,442  acres.  The  northern  division,  comprising 
about  one-fourth  of  the  entire  area,  is  a  lowland  tract, 
all  rich  in  the  characters  of  soil,  cultivation,  and  beauty, 
that  mark  the  great  plain  of  East  Lothian ;  but  the  other 
divisions  consist  of  portions  of  the  Lammermuir  Hills, 
ascending  to  their  watershed  at  the  Berwickshire  border, 
and  are  mostly  bleak,  heathy,  and  mossy,  with  occasional 
patches  of  verdure.  In  the  N  the  surface  declines  to 
390  feet  above  sea-level,  and  rises  thence  to  900  at  Snaw- 
don,  1250  at  Eangely  Kipp,  and  1631  at  Lowrans  Law. 
Hope's  Water  and  two  other  head-streams  of  Gifford 
Water,  descending  from  the  southern  heights,  unite  near 
the  western  boundary,  and  pass  into  Yester  on  their  way 
to  the  Tyne.  Papana  Water  rises  on  the  south-eastern 
border,  and,  winding  5  miles  northward  through  the  in- 
terior, past  the  village,  to  the  northern  boundary,  pro- 
■ceeds  thence,  under  different  names,  to  the  sea  at  Bel- 
haven  Bay  ;  within  this  parish  it  runs  along  a  very  rocky 
bed,  and  is  subject  to  violent  freshets,  sweeping  down 
stones  of  great  weight,  and  overflowing  portions  of  its 
banks.  In  1755  it  rose  to  so  great  a  volume  as  to  flood 
some  houses  in  the  village  to  the  depth  of  3  feet.  The 
rocks  in  the  N  include  excellent  sandstone,  which  has 
beenquarried ;  and  those  of  the  hills  are  chiefly  SUurian. 
The  soil  in  the  N  is  a  deep  rich  clay  ;  in  the  NE  is  of  a 
light  gravelly  nature ;  and  on  the  hills  is  thin  and  spongy. 
An  ancient  circular  camp,  1500  feet  in  circumference,  is 
on  Garvald  farm,  and  four  or  five  others  are  dotted  over 
the  hills.  Whitecastle  and  Yester  Castle,  the  chief  an- 
tic^uities,  are  noticed  separately,  as  likewise  are  the  two 
mansions,  Hopes  and  Nunraw.  Four  proprietors  hold 
each  an  annual  value  of  more,  and  two  of  less,  than  £500. 
Garvald  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Haddington  and  synod 
of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale  ;  the  living  is  worth  £303. 
The  parish  church,  at  the  village,  is  an  old  building, 
enlarged  in  1829,  and  containing  360  sittings.  There  is 
also  a  Free  church  ;  and  a  public  school,  with  accommo- 
dation for  110  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attend- 
ance of  75,  and  a  grant  of  £57,  ISs.  6d.  Valuation 
(1860)  £9444,  (1878)  £10,046,  19s.,  (1883)  £9320,  10s. 
Pop.  (ISO!)  749,  (1831)  914,  (1S61)  891,  (1871)  832, 
(1881)  7oS.~Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  33,  1863. 

Garvald  or  Garrel,  an  ancient  parish  and  a  burn  in 
Dumfriesshire.  The  parish  was  annexed,  about  1674, 
partly  to  Johnstone,  chiefly  to  Kirkmichael ;  and  it 
continues  to  give  name  to  the  two  farms  of  Upper  and 
Nether  Garrel.  Its  church,  rebuilt  so  late  as  1617, 
stood  on  the  right  bank  of  Garvald  Bm-n,  3J  miles  NE 
of  Kirkmichael  church  ;  and  now  is  represented  by 
ruined  walls  and  an  enclosed  burying-ground.  The 
burn,  rising  at  an  altitude  of  1050  feet  above  sea-level, 
winds  7i  miles  south-south-eastward  through  all  the 
length  of  the  parish,  till  it  glides  into  Ae  Water,  2  miles 
NNW  of  Lochmaben.  AVith  a  total  descent  of  860  feet, 
it  forms  a  number  of  tiny  cascades  and  cataracts,  making 
in  one  place  a  fall  of  18  feet  over  a  mural  rock. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  10,  1864. 

Garvald  or  Garrel,  a  hill  and  a  bum  in  Kilsyth  parish, 
S  Stirlingshire.  The  hill  is  part  of  the  Kilsyth  range, 
and  culminates  2J  mUes  NW  by  N  of  Kilsyth  town 
at  an  altitude  of  1381  feet  above  sea-level.  The  burn, 
issuing  from  a  reservoii-  on  a  high  plateau,  IJ  mOe 
WSW  of  the  hill's  summit,  and  running  IJ  eastward 
under  the  name  of  Birken  Burn,  proceeds  2J  miles 
south-eastward  to  Kilsyth  town,  during  which  course  it 
makes  an  aggregate  descent  of  1000  feet,  necessarily 
forming  cataracts  and  falls.  It  next  goes  1^  mile  south- 
westward  across  Kilsyth  plain  to  the  river  Kelvin  ;  but, 
in  traversing  the  plain,  is  so  drawn  off'  for  water-power 
and  to  a  lake  as  to  be  generally  dry  except  during  a 
freshet. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  31,  1867. 

Garvald  or  Garwald  Water,  a  stream  of  Eskdalemuir 
parish,  Dumfriesshire,  rising,  on  the  southern  slope  of 
Ettrick  Pe.v,  at  an  altitude  of  1850  feet,  close  to  the  Sel- 


GAEVELLOCH 

kirkshire  border,  and  thence  winding  6|  miles  south- 
south-eastward  and  east-north-eastward  till  it  falls  into 
the  Wbite  Esk,  2  miles  NNW  of  Eskdalemuir  church. 
It  receives  a  number  of  mountain  tributaries,  and  makes 
a  magnificent  waterfall,  called  Garvald  Linn.  This  linn 
is  a  long  descent  over  a  stony  channel,  sloping  here,  and 
there  precipitous,  between  rocky  flanks,  for  the  most  part 
naked,  but  clothed  at  intervals  with  copse  and  brush- 
wood ;  and  forms  now  a  cascade,  now  a  capricious  cata- 
ract, now  a  rushing  rapid. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  16,  1864. 

Garvald  House,  a  mansion  in  Linton  parish,  NW 
Peeblesshire,  near  the  left  bank  of  South  Medwin  Water, 
IJ  mile  NW  of  Dolphinton  station,  and  4^  miles  WSW 
of  West  Linton.  Having  passed  by  marriage  to  the 
Dicks  of  Prestonfield  from  a  family  of  the  name  of 
Douglas,  it  was  purchased  in  1827  for  £11,650  by  John 
Woddrop,  Esq.  of  Dalmarnock,  whose  son,  William 
Allan-Woddrop,  Esq.  (b.  1829  ;  sue.  1845),  holds  2225 
acres  in  Peeblesshire  and  3205  in  Lanarkshire,  valued 
at  £760  and  £3029  per  annum.  See  Biggae. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  24,  1864. 

Garvald  Point.    See  Greenock. 

Garvalt.     See  Garawalt. 

Garvan,  a  hamlet,  with  a  public  scbool,  in  the  Argyll- 
shire section  of  Kilmallie  parish,  on  the  southern  snore 
of  upper  Loch  Eil  towards  its  head,  9|  miles  W  by  N 
of  Fort  William. 

Garvary  or  Blar  Garvary,  a  hill  (864  feet)  in  Kincar- 
dine parish,  Ross-shire,  2j  miles  SSW  of  the  church. 

Garve,  a  loch  on  the  mutual  border  of  Contin  and 
Foddertj'  parishes,  Ross-shire,  |  mile  SE  of  Garve  station 
on  the  Dingwall  and  Skye  railway,  this  station  being 
llf  miles  W  by  N  of  Dingwall,  and  having  a  post  and 
railway  telegraph  office.  Here  also  there  is  a  good  inn. 
Lying  220  feet  above  sea-level,  the  loch  has  an  utmost 
length  and  breadth  of  IJ  and  J  mile,  has  finely  wooded 
shores,  is  traversed  by  the  Blackwater,  and  contains 
abundance  of  trout,  running  2  or  3  to  the  lb. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  83,  1881. 

GarvEilan  or  Garbh-Eilean,  the  north-westernmost 
of  the  three  Shiant  Isles  iu  the  Outer  Hebrides,  Ross- 
shire,  in  the  North  Minch,  4J  miles  ESE  of  the  nearest 
point  of  the  Lewis,  and  21  S  of  Stornoway.  Triangular 
in  shape,  it  has  an  utmost  length  and  breadth  of  7J  and 
3  furlongs  ;  is  separated  from  Ellan-na-Kelly  only  by 
a  neck  of  rolled  pebbles,  commonly  dry,  except  at  a 
concurrence  of  spring  tide  and  tempestuous  wind ;  has  a 
surface  diversified  with  hollows  and  declivities  ;  and 
abounds  in  rich  pasture. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  99,  1858. 

Garvellan.    See  Gaean. 

Garvelloch,  a  group  of  four  pastoral  islets  in  Jura 
parish,  Argyllshire,  2J  miles  W  of  Lunga.  They  ex- 
tend 4  miles  from  NE  to  SW,  and  are  nowhere  more  than 
J  mile  broad  ;  are  now  valuable  solely  on  account  of  the 
excellence  of  their  pasture  for  sheep  and  black  cattle  ; 
but  have  yielded  marble,  a  specimen  of  which  exists  at 
Inverary  Castle.  Adamnan  terms  them  Insula  Hinia 
or  Hinhina,  and  in  545  St  Brendan  seems  to  have 
founded  a  monastery  on  the  most  westerly  of  the  group, 
Eilean  na  Naoimh  ('island  of  the  saints').  Swept  away 
by  the  defeat  of  the  Dalriadan  Scots  in  560,  this  monas- 
tery was  refounded  a  few  years  after  by  St  Columba ; 
and  'still,'  says  Dr  Skene,  'there  are  remains  of  some 
very  primitive  ecclesiastical  buildings  which  we  can 
identify  with  Columba's  monastery,  the  first  he  founded 
after  that  of  lona,  and  which,  fortunately  for  us,  owing 
to  the  island  being  uninhabited,  not  very  accessible,  and 
little  visited,  have  not  disappeared  before  the  improving 
hand  of  man.  The  remains  are  grouped  together  about 
the  middle  of  the  island,  on  its  north-eastern  side. 
Here  there  is  a  small  sheltered  port  or  harbour,  and  near 
it  a  spring  of  water  tenned  Tohar  Clmllum  na  Chille,  or 
Columba's  Well.  Near  the  shore,  S  of  this,  in  a  shel- 
tered grassy  hollow,  are  the  remains  of  the  cemetery, 
with  traces  of  graves  of  great  age  ;  and  adjoining  it  a 
square  enclosure,  or  small  court,  on  the  E  of  which  are 
the  remains  of  buildings  of  a  domestic  character.  N  of 
this  is  the  church,  a  roofless  building,  formed  of  slates 
without  mortar,  and  measuring  25  feet  by  15.     NE  of 

81 


GAEVEL  POINT 

this  is  a  building  resembling  the  cells  appropriated  to 
the  abbots  of  these  primitive  monasteries.  Farther  off, 
on  higher  ground,  are  the  remains  of  a  kiln,  and  on  a 
slope  near  the  shore  two  beehive  cells  resembling  those 
used  by  anchorites.'  See  Appendix  to  Dr  Reeves' 
Adamnan  (Edinb.  1874),  and  vol.  ii.,  pp.  78,  97,  128, 
246,  of  Dr  Skene's  Celtic  Scotland  (Edinb.  1877). 

Garvel  Point.    See  Greenock. 

Garvock  is  a  parish  in  Kincardineshire,  bounded  on 
the  NE  by  the  parish  of  Arbuthnott,  on  the  SE  by  Ben- 
holm  and  St  Cyrus,  on  the  SW  by  Marykirk,  and  on 
the  NW  by  Laurencekirk.  Its  extreme  length,  from 
NE  to  SW,  is  rather  more  than  7  miles ;  its  greatest 
breadth,  from  NW  to  SE,  about  4  miles  ;  and  its  area  is 
7982  acres,  of  v?hich  16  are  water.  The  name  is  derived 
from  two  Celtic  words  denoting  a  '  rough  marsh  or 
meadow.'  Though  cultivation  has  done  much  in  the 
way  of  improvement,  there  are  stUl  parts  of  the  parish 
to  which  the  original  name  is  not  inappropriate.  It  is 
intersected,  but  very  unequally,  by  what  is  distinctively 
named  the  '  Hill  of  Garvock,'  a  range  of  high  land 
covered  with  heath.  On  the  NW  of  this  ridge  are 
Bamhill,  and  the  upper  lands  of  several  farms  otherwise 
lying  in  Laurencekirk.  On  its  S  lies  much  the  larger 
part  of  the  parish,  descending  gently  to  form  a  hollow 
plain,  chiefly  of  cultivated  land,  and  rising  again  to 
higher  ground  (where  it  borders  upon  Benholm  and  St 
Cyrus)  varied  by  a  single  narrow  opening,  the  source  of 
the  romantic  Den  Finella.  Bervie  Water,  well  known 
to  anglers,  winds  1-|  mile  along  the  border  of  Garvock, 
separating  it  from  Arbuthnott.  It  receives  two  incon- 
siderable streams  in  the  parish,  one  of  them  flowing, 
when  not  checked  by  drought,  through  the  picturesqiie 
Woodburnden.  The  surface  of  the  parish  along  the 
Bervie  Water  is  140  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It 
rises  thence,  and  at  Denhead  attains  a  height  of  462 
feet,  falling  on  the  SE  border  to  455  feet.  The  three 
highest  points  of  the  Hill  of  Garvock  are  cairns,  situated 
from  the  parish  church  respectively  7  furlongs  NE,  3 
furlongs  NW,  and  12  furlongs  SW,  and  their  various 
altitudes  being  854,  813,  and  915  feet.  On  the  last  the 
tower  of  Johnston  is  built.  Those  cairns  and  others  in 
different  parts  of  the  parish  are  supposed  to  be  relics  of 
the  Druids ;  and  several  have  been  foimd  to  contain 
evidence  of  having  been  places  of  sepulture  at  a  very 
early  period.  There  is  one  on  Barnhill,  which  tradition 
marks  as  the  grave  of  two  travelling  merchants  who, 
early  in  the  18th  century,  quarrelled  and  fought  on  the 
spot,  and  were  both  killed.  Here  it  may  be  noted,  in 
the  words  of  Mr  Jervise,  that  '  stone  cists,  flint  arrow- 
heads, and  curious  stone  balls  have  been  found  in  vari- 
ous parts  of  Garvock ;  and  in  March  1875  there  was 
discovered,  at  a  depth  of  15  inches,  in  a  gravel  hillock 
near  Brownies'  Leys,  an  oval-shaped  vessel  made  of 
burned  clay,  about  11  inches  deep  by  about  8  inches 
wide,  and  containing  part  of  a  skull  and  other  human 
remains.'  But  the  spot  which  has  attained  the  greatest 
celebrity  is  that  known  as  Brownies'  Kettle,  or  Sheriff's 
Kettle,  on  the  farm  of  Brownies'  Leys  and  estate  of  Davo. 
Here  was  the  caldron  in  which  John  Melville  of  Glen- 
bervie,  Sheriff  of  the  Mearns,  met  his  cruel  fate  at  the 
hands  of  his  brother  barons,  being  '  sodden  and  suppit 
in  bree, '  in  literal  compliance  with  the  too  hasty  sen- 
tence of  his  majesty  James  I.  The  story  is  too  well 
known  for  a  detailed  account  to  be  given  here.  The 
unnatural  deed  was  perpetrated  about  1420  or  1421, 
and  on  1  Sept.  of  the  latter  year,  Hugh  Arbuthnott, 
George  Barclay,  Alexander  Falconer,  William  the  Gra- 
ham, Gilbert  Middleton,  Patrick  Barclay,  and  Alexander 
of  Graham  were  received  '  to  the  lawes  of  Clane  Macduff 
for  the  deid  of  quhillome  John  the  MalavUIe,  Laird  of 
Glenbervy.'  The  chief  actor,  David  Barclay,  prefen'ed 
to  seek  for  safety  by  building  the  Kaim  of  Mathers,  to 
the  security  of  which  he  retired  for  a  time.  The  heri- 
tors are  James  Badenoch  Nicholson,  for  the  lands  of 
Arthurhouse ;  Hercules  Scott,  for  the  lands  of  Balha- 
garty  ;  David  Scott  Porteous,  for  the  lands  of  Bradie- 
ston ;  George  Taylor,  for  the  lands  of  Craig  and 
Biadiestown ;  Alfred  Farrell,  for  the  estate  of  Davo ; 
82 


GARVOCK 

David  A.  Pearson,  for  lauds  of  Johnston,  etc.  ;  trustees 
of  the  late  Earl  of  Kintore,  for  the  lands  of  Bedford ; 
Patrick  Dickson,  for  the  estate  of  Barnhill;  James 
Scott,  for  Easter  Tulloch ;  trustees  of  the  late  John 
Scott,  for  Upper  Tulloch ;  and  Viscount  Arbuthnott,  for 
the  lands  of  Whitefield.  The  soil  has  been  described  as 
'  mostly  either  thin  or  medium  loam  resting  on  a  hard 
subsoil,  or  stiff  clayey  loam  lying  on  a  cold  sour  bottom. 
Considering  that  a  large  portion  of  this  parish  consists 
of  uncultivated  hUly  ground,  the  rise  in  rental  must  be 
regarded  as  very  large.  As  already  indicated  a  large 
extent  of  land  has  been  reclaimed  on  the  slope  of  Garvock 
Hill  during  the  last  twenty-five  years'  ( Trans.  HigM.  and 
Ag.  Soc,  1881,  p.  112).  Tradition  bears  that  a  large  part 
of  Garvock  was  in  ancient  times  a  forest,  and  there  are 
traces  of  the  deer-dyke  by  which  it  was  enclosed.  It  is 
uncertain  how  much  interest  was  held  in  the  parish  by 
Hugh  le  Blond,  who  had  owned  the  patronage,  and 
land  also  in  the  neighbourhood,  of  the  church,  or  how 
long  that  interest  continued  in  the  family  of  Arbuth- 
nott. But  in  the  first  quarter  of  the  14th  century  the 
lands  of  Garuoeis  were  among  the  gifts  to  Sir  Alexander 
Fraser,  Thane  of  Cowie,  brother-in-law  of  King  Robert 
I.,  and  Great  Chamberlain  of  Scotland,  who  fell  at  the 
Battle  of  Dupplin  in  1329.  His  grand-daughter,  Mar- 
garet Fraser,  became  the  wife  of  Sir  William  Keith, 
founder  of  the  castle  of  Dunnottar,  and  the  barony  of 
Garuoeis  was  for  several  generations  in  possession  of  the 
Keiths-Marischal.  It  is  included  in  charters  to  the  fiirst 
earl  and  the  fourth,  who  died  in  1581.  In  his  time  a 
lease  of  the  lands  of  Shiells  was  given  to  James  Keith, 
great-grandson  of  the  second  earl,  '  a  man  of  parts  and 
merits, '  devoted  to  Queen  Mary,  a  favourite  of  his  chief, 
and  captain  of  the  castle  of  Dunnottar.  He  was  head 
of  the  family  of  Craig,  and,  though  possessed  of  lands 
in  several  counties,  including  some  in  Garvock,  he  made 
his  residence  on  Shiells.  There  he  had  virtually  exer- 
cised the  powers  of  baron,  administering  justice  and 
holding  councils  on  the  Baron-hill  (Barnhill) ;  while  the 
adjoining  height,  stUl  known  as  Gallow-bank,  had  been 
utilised  by  the  grim  '  finisher '  of  the  law.  The  17th 
century  began  the  breaking  up  of  the  barony  into  vari- 
ous holdings.  Before  1628,  Bradieston  ('town  of  the 
flat  meadow  land ')  was  in  possession  of  Robert  Keith, 
grandson  of  the  above-mentioned  James,  and  Provost  of 
Montrose,  who  subsequently  acquired  the  barony  of 
Scotston  and  Powburn  and  the  lands  of  Haddo.  He 
was  commissioner  from  the  burgh  of  Montrose  in  the 
Scottish  Parliament  of  1639,  and  he  died  in  1666.  His 
initials,  'R.  1666  K.,'  with  shield  and  crest,  are  still 
found  on  a  stone  which  had  been  part  of  a  funeral 
monument,  and  is  now  built  into  a  wall  of  the  church. 
The  lands  of  Balhagarty  ('town  of  the  priest')  are 
known  to  have  belonged  in  1637  to  Earl  Marischal,  and 
they  were  in  possession  of  Scott  of  Scotstarvet  before 
1672.  There  was  a  charter  of  the  lands  of  Whitefield 
in  1617  to  Sir  Robert  Arbuthnott  and  his  wife,  Mary 
Keith ;  and  in  1677  the  Hon.  Alexander,  younger  son 
of  the  first  Viscount  Arbuthnott,  had  a  charter  of  the 
lands  of  Tullochs  ('  little  hills ').  In  the  last  quarter  of 
the  17th  century  three  branches  of  a  distinguished 
family  were  conterminous  proprietors.  In  1672  the 
lands  of  BamhiU  and  Henstown  were  in  possession  of 
Lord  Falconer  of  Haulkerton  ;  in  1682  Smiddiehill  and 
adjoining  parts  belonged  to  Sir  David  Falconer  of  New- 
ton ;  and  in  1684  the  lands  of  Shiells  were  disponed  to 
Sir  Alexander  Falconer  of  Glenfarquhar.  The  eldest 
branch  succumbed,  and  the  Haulkerton  title  and  estates 
passed  to  Glenfarquhar,  who  enjoyed  them  only  for 
three  years,  when  David  Falconer  of  Newton  succeeded, 
as  fifth  Lord  Falconer ;  and,  coming  into  possession  of 
the  whole  lands  which  had  belonged  to  the  three 
families,  was  probably  the  largest  heritor  of  Garvock  for 
the  time.  Space  cannot  be  given  for  a  detailed  account 
of  the  transmission  of  the  various  lands  to  their  present 
respective  proprietors,  but  it  may  be  stated  that  in 
course  of  this  transition  the  parish  numbered  among  its 
heritors  more  branches  than  one  of  the  Barclays,  descend- 
ants of  the  once  powerful  De  Berkeleys.     The  church 


GARVOCK 

was  rated  in  1275  at  1 8  mcrks.  In  12S2  Hugh  le  Blond, 
Lord  of  Arbuthenoth,  granted  to  the  monks  of  Arbroath 
the  patronage  of  the  church  of  Garvock,  with  an  ox -gang 
of  land  and  some  common  pasture.  The  earliest  re- 
corded vicar  was  "William,  who  did  homage  to  King 
Edward  in  1296.  Coming  to  Reformation  times,  the 
church  with  three  others  was  served,  in  1574,  by  one 
minister,  who  had  the  Kirklands  and  a  money  stipend 
of  £133,  6s.  Sd.  Scots.  The  reader  had  £20  Scots. 
There  has  been  no  vacancy  in  the  office  of  parish  minis- 
ter since  1698,  the  successive  incumbents  having  all  had 
assistants  and  successors  ordained  before  their  death. 
The  stipend  is  returned  as  £183 ;  the  manse  (built  in 
1866)  is  valued  at  £25,  and  the  glebe  at  £15.  The 
church  (built  in  1778)  is  seated  for  about  300  people. 
The  churchyard  has  a  few  old  gravestones  ;  and  on  tlic 
manse  offices  there  is  the  fragment  of  one  with  date 
1603.  The  church  was  dedicated  to  St  James  ;  and  a 
well  in  the  den  near  the  manse,  called  St  James's  "Well, 
had  the  reputation  once  of  working  miraculous  cures. 
St  James's  Fair,  now  at  Laurencekirk,  was  long  held 
near  the  church  on  Barnhill,  where  the  site  may  still  be 
traced  by  the  turf  seats  which  did  service  in  the 
various  tents.  The  parish  has  always  been  well  pro- 
vided with  the  means  of  education.  The  public  school 
(built  in  1866)  has  accommodation  for  92  pupils.  In 
1881  there  was  an  average  attendance  of  37,  and  the 
government  grant  was  £41,  2s.  6d.  Garvock  has  also  a 
joint  interest  in  the  school  at  "Waterlair,  and  gives  an 
average  attendance  there  of  about  30  scholars.  The 
valuation  of  the  parish,  in  1856,  was  £4215.  In  1883  it 
had  reached  £6270,  13s.  lid.  The  population,  in  1755, 
was  755  ;  in  1801  it  was  468.  The  highest  point  it  has 
reached  since  was  485  in  the  year  1811  ;  and  the  late 
census  (1881)  reduced  it  to  a  minimum  of  428. — Ord. 
Siir.,  shs.  66,  57,  1871-68. 

Garvock.     See  Pitlitee. 

Garvock,  an  estate,  with  a  modern  mansion,  in  Dun- 
ning parish,  Perthshire,  1  mile  ENE  of  the  town.  Its 
owner,  Robert  Grreme,  Esq.  (b.  1841  ;  sue.  1859),  holds 
644  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £844  per  annum. 

Gascon  Hall,  an  ancient  castle,  now  a  ruin,  in  the 
SE  corner  of  Trinity  Gask  parish,  Perthshire,  on  the  N 
bank  of  the  Earn,  1 J  mile  WN"W  of  Dunning  station. 
Tradition  makes  it  the  place  where  Sir  "William  "Wallace, 
according  to  Blind  Harry's  narrative,  encountered  the 
ghost  of  Faudon ;  but  it  must  have  been  built  long 
after  Wallace's  day.  The  real  Gascon  Hall  appears  to 
have  stood  about  IJ  mile  NE  of  this  castle,  on  a  spot 
amid  the  present  woods  of  Gask. 

Gask  or  Findo  Gask,  a  hamlet  and  a  parishTin  Strath- 
earn  district,  Perthshire.  The  hamlet  lies  IJ  mile  SSE 
of  Balgowan  station,  and  2J  miles  N  by  "W  of  Dunning 
station,  this  being  94  miles  "WS'W  of  Perth,  and  4:^  NE  oi 
Auchterarder,  under  which  there  is  a  post  office  of  Gask. 

The  parish,  containing  also  Olathy  village,  and  hav- 
ing Balgowan  station  on  its  north-western  border,  is 
bounded  N'W  by  Madderty  and  Methven,  E  by  Tibber- 
more  and  Forteviot,  S  by  Dunning,  S"W  by  Auchterarder, 
and  "W  by  Trinity  Gask.  Its  utmost  length,  from  N  to 
S,  is  4  miles ;  its  utmost  breadth,  from  E  to  "W,  is  2f 
miles ;  and  its  area  is  5227i  acres,  of  which  42  are  water. 
The  river  Eakn,  winding  35-  miles  eastward,  roughly 
traces  all  the  southern  boundary  ;  and  the  sirrface, 
sinking  along  it  to  close  upon  30  feet  above  sea-level, 
thence  rises  gently  to  382  feet  near  Charlesfield,  and 
427  near  the  manse,  from  which  point  it  again  slopes 
softly  down  to  190  feet  along  Cowgask  Burn,  flowing  IJ 
mile  south-westward  on  the  boundary  with  Madderty. 
Sandstone  and  grey  slate  have  both  been  quarried,  and 
marl  occurs  in  several  places.  The  soil  is  partly  argil- 
laceous, partly  a  fertile  loam.  More  than  1200  acres 
are  under  wood.  A  Roman  road,  traversing  the  summit 
ridge,  on  the  line  of  communication  between  two  camps 
in  Scone  and  Muthill  parishes,  has  a  breadth  of  20  feet, 
and  consists  of  compactly-built  rough  stones.  It  is 
flanked,  at  intervals,  by  traces  of  fortified  posts,  each 
to  be  garrisoned  by  from  12  to  19  men.  One  of  these 
posts  has  from  time  immemorial  been  called  the  "Witch 


GATEHOUSE 

Enowe,  and  is  said  to  have  been  the  scene  of  executions 
for  the  imputed  crime  of  sorcery.  "William  Taylor, 
D.D.  (1744-1823),  afterwards  Principal  of  Glasgow  Uni- 
versity, was  minister  of  Gask ;  and  natives  were  Thomas 
Smeaton  (1636-83),  an  early  Presbyterian  divine,  and 
the  sculptor,  La^vrence  Macdonald  (1798-1878).  So, 
too,  was  Carolina  Oliphant,  Lady  Nairn  (1766-1845), 
who  was  author  of  The  Laird  0'  Cockpcn,  Tlic  Land  0' 
the  Leal,  The  Auld  House,  and  others  of  Scotland's 
choicest  songs.  Her  ancestor.  Sir  "William  Oliphant, 
about  the  beginning  of  the  14th  century,  acquired  broad 
lands  in  Perthshire  from  Robert  the  Bruce,  and  became 
the  Lord  of  Gasknes  and  Aberdalgie ;  and  Lawrence 
Oliphant,  his  descendant,  was  in  1458  created  Lord 
Oliphant.  The  fifth  of  the  title,  '  ane  base  and  unworthy 
man,'  soon  after  1600  sold  all  his  great  estates  but  Gask, 
which  in  1625  was  purchased  by  his  cousin,  the  first  of 
the  'Jacobite  lairds.'  On  11  Sept.  1745,  Prince  Charles 
Edward  breakfasted  at  the  'auld  house,'  and  a  lock  of 
his  hair  is  still  a  family  heirloom ;  in  the  following 
February  Gask  was  ransacked  by  the  Hanoverians.  The 
present  mansion,  begun  in  1801,  stands  9  furlongs  S"W 
of  the  hamlet,  amid  finely  wooded  grounds,  and  is  the 
seat  of  Mrs  Grjeme  Oliphant,  the  widow  of  James  Blair 
Oliphant  (1804-47),  who  was  eighteenth  in  unbroken 
male  descent  from  Sir  "William.  She  holds  4940  acres 
in  the  shire,  valued  at  £4354  per  annum.  Gask  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  Auchterarder  and  synod  of  Perth  and 
Stirling ;  the  living  is  worth  £233.  The  chm-ch,  at  the 
hamlet,  was  built  in  1800,  and  contains  nearly  400  sit- 
tings. A  public  school,  with  accommodation  for  76 
children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  35,  and  a 
grant  of  £44,  19s.  6d.  "\^aluation  (1882)  £5119,  3s.  6d. 
Pop.  (1801)  601,  (1831)  428,  (1861)  399,  (1871)  369, 
(1881)  364.— Ord  Srtr.,  shs.  47,  48,  1869-68.  See  T. 
L.  Kington  Oliphant's  Jacobite  Lairds  of  Gask  (Gram- 
pian Club,  1870). 

Gask  Hill.    See  Collessie. 

Gask  House,  an  old  mansion  in  Turriff  parish,  Aber- 
deenshire, 1|  mile  S  by  E  of  the  town.  From  the 
Forbeses  it  passed  through  several  hands  to  the  fourth 
Earl  of  Fife  early  in  the  present  century  ;  by  him  was 
let  to  the  seventh  Earl  of  Kintore  for  a  hunting  box  ; 
but  now  is  merely  a  farm-house. 

Gasstown,  a  village  in  Dumfries  parish,  Dumfries- 
shire, IJ  mile  SSE  of  Dumfries  to^vn,  under  which 
it  has  a  post  office.  It  was  founded  about  1810  by 
Joseph  Gass.  Pop.,  with  Heathery  Row,  (1871)  521, 
(1881)  467. 

Gatehead,  a  collier  village  in  the  S  of  Kilmaurs  parish, 
Ayrshire,  near  the  right  bank  of  the  river  Irvine,  2^ 
miles  "WS\¥  of  Kilmarnock.  It  has  a  station  on  the 
Kilmarnock  and  Ayr  section  of  the  Glasgow  and  South- 
"Wcstern  railway. 

Gatehope,  a  burn  in  Peebles  parish,  Peeblesshire,  ris- 
ing at  an  altitude  of  1750  feet  on  the  soiithern  slope  of 
Cardon  Law  (1928),  near  the  meeting-point  with  Inner- 
leithen and  Eddleston  parishes.  "Thence  it  runs  4 J 
miles  south-south-westward,  tiU,  after  a  total  descent  of 
1245  feet,  it  falls  into  the  Tweed  5  furlongs  ESE  of 
Peebles  town.— Ord  Sm:,  sh.  24,  1S64. 

Gatehouse,  a  town  of  S"W  Kirkcudbrightshire,  on  the 
"W^ater  of  Fleet,  9  miles  \\^'SW  of  Kirkcudbright  and  6 
SE  by  S  of  Drumore,  with  both  of  which  it  communi- 
cates twice  a  day  by  coach.  Comprising  Gatehouse 
proper  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  in  Girthon  parish, 
and  Fleet  Street  suburb  on  the  right  bank  in  Anwoth 
parish,  it  has  picturesque  environs,  that  ascend  from 
luxuriant  valley  to  an  amphitheatre  of  distant  hUls,  and 
commands  navigable  communication  1 J  mile  down  Fleet 
"Water  to  that  river's  expansion  into  Fleet  Bay  or  estuary, 
and  so  to  "Wigtown  Bay  and  the  Irish  Sea.  It  sprang, 
about  the  middle  of  last  centiu'y,  from  a  single  house 
situated  at  the  gate  of  the  avenue  to  Cally  House — 
hence  its  name  Gatehouse-of- Fleet — and  rapidly  rose  to 
manufacturing  importance,  so  as  to  have,  at  the  begin- 
ning of  the  present  century,  four  cotton  factories,  a  fair 
proportion  of  cotton-weaving  hand-looms,  a  wine  com- 
pany, a  brewery,  a  tannery,  and  workshops  for  nearly 

83 


GATESIDE 

every  class  of  artisans.  It  made  a  grand  effort,  too,  by 
deepening  Fleet  Water  to  the  sea  and  otherwise,  to 
establish  a  great  commercial  trade,  and  seemed  for  a 
time  to  menace  the  Glasgow  of  the  West  with  the 
energetic  rivalry  of  a  Glasgow  of  the  South.  Somewhat 
suddenly  it  suffered  such  arrest  to  further  progress  as 
has  made  it  from  1815  stationary  or  retrograde ;  and 
now  its  only  industrial  works  are  a  bobbin  and  bark 
mill  and  a  brewery.  Still,  it  consists  of  neat  and 
regular  streets,  and  presents,  in  its  main  body  or  Gate- 
house proper,  a  sort  of  miniature  of  the  original  New 
Town  of  Edinburgh,  being  one  of  the  handsomest  to\vns 
in  GaUoway,  equalled  indeed  by  very  few  in  Scotland. 
It  has  a  post  office,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank, 
insurance,  and  telegraph  departments,  branches  of  the 
Bank  of  Scotland  and  the  Union  Bank,  offices  or  agencies 
of  6  insurance  companies,  2  hotels,  a  handsome  clock- 
tower,  a  fine  stone  bridge  across  the  Fleet,  the  parish 
church,  a  Free  church,  a  United  Presbyterian  church, 
an  English  Episcopalian  church,  a  public  news-room,  a 
public  library,  a  gas  company,  a  weekly  market  on 
Saturday,  a  cattle  market  on  the  second  Satui'day  of 
every  month,  and  hiring  fairs  on  the  Saturdays  before 
Castle-Douglas  fair.  The  clock-tower,  of  Craignair 
granite,  built  in  1871,  stands  at  the  N  end  of  the 
principal  street,  and  rises  to  a  height  of  75  feet.  The 
bridge  succeeded  one  of  the  13th  century,  has  twice 
been  widened,  and  comprises  two  spacious  arches.  The 
parish  church  of  Girthon  was  buOt  in  1817,  and  contains 
714  sittings ;  and  another  parish  church,  that  of  Anwoth 
(1S26 ;  400  sittings),  stands  If  mile  W  by  S.  The  United 
Presbyterian  chui-ch  is  in  the  Fleet  Street  suburb  ;  and 
the  Episcopalian  church  stands  in  the  grounds  of  Cally. 
The  improvement  on  the  Fleet's  navigation  includes  a 
canal  or  straight  cut  along  the  river,  made  at  a  cost  of 
about  £3000,  and  enables  vessels  of  60  tons'  burden  to 
come  up  to  the  town.  The  exports  are  principally  grain, 
the  imports  principally  coal  and  lime.  The  town  was 
made  a  burgh  of  barony,  by  royal  charter,  in  1795  ; 
adopted  the  Police  Act  in  1852 ;  and  is  governed  by 
a  provost,  2  bailies,  and  4  councillors,  and  by  com- 
missioners of  police,  with  the  provost  at  their  head. 
A  justice  of  peace  small  debt  court  is  held  on  the  first 
Saturday  of  every  month.  Fom-  schools — Girthon,  CaUy, 
Fleetside  boys',  and  Fleetside  girls' — with  respective  ac- 
commodation for  149,  139,  91,  and  85  children,  had 
(1881)  an  average  attendance  of  101,  86,  68,  and  84,  and 
grants  of  £96,  9s.,  £79,  5s.,  £68,  5s.  8d.,and£S7,  5s.  lid. 
The  municipal  constituency  numbered  102  in  1882,  when 
the  annual  value  of  real  p'roperty  was  £2826.  Pop. 
(1851)  1750,  (1861)  1635,  (1871)  1503,  (1881)  1286,  of 
whom  337  were  in  Anwoth. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  5,  1857. 

Gateside,  a  village  in  Beith  parish,  Ayrshire,  1  mile  E 
by  S  of  Beith  town.     Pop.  (1871)  350,  (1881)  374. 

Gateside,  a  village  in  Neilston  parish,  Renfrewshire, 
on  the  left  side  of  Levern  Water,  and  on  the  Glasgow 
and  Neilston  railway,  IJ  mile  WSW  of  the  centre  of 
Barrhead.  One  of  the  cluster  of  seats  of  manufacture, 
all  popularly  called  Barrhead,  it  had  a  cotton  factory  so 
early  as  1786.     Pop.  (1861)  455,  (1871)  399,  (1881)  465. 

Gateside,  a  small  village  in  Kirkgunzeon  parish, 
Kirkcudbrightshire,  3  furlongs  ESE  of  Kirkgunzeon 
church,  and  4J  miles  NNE  of  Dalbeattie. 

Gateside,  a  farm  in  Caraldston  parish,  Forfarshire, 
near  the  K  bank  of  the  South  Esk,  ih  miles  W  by  S  of 
Brechin.  It  is  supposed  to  adjoin  the  site  of  the 
Roman  station  .Slsica,  and  to  have  got  its  name  from 
a  gate  or  port  of  the  station  towards  the  river. 

Gateside,  a  village  in  Whitburn  parish,  Linlithgow- 
shire, J  mile  W  by  S  of  Whitburn  town. 

Gateside,  a  hamlet  in  Markinch  parish,  Fife,  IJ  mile 
NNW  of  Markinch  village. 

Gateside,  a  village  in  Strathmiglo  parish,  Fife.  See 
Edenshead. 

Gattonside,  a  village  in  Melrose  parish,  Roxburgh- 
shire, on  the  left  side  of  the  Tweed,  1  mile  N  by  W  of 
Melrose  town,  under  which  it  has  a  post  office,  and  with 
which  it  communicates  by  a  foot  suspension-bridge. 
Lying  scattered  among  groves  and  orchards,  300  feet 
84 


GEABB  ABHAINN 

above  sea-level,  it  retains  some  traces  of  a  large  and 
beautiful  pre-Reformatiou  chapel ;  it  is  celebrated  for 
both  the  quality  and  the  quantity  of  its  fruit ;  and  it 
is  overlooked,  on  the  N,  from  Allen  Water  to  Leader 
Water,  by  a  range  of  softly  outlined  heights,  the  Gat- 
tonside Hills,  that  culminate  at  927  feet.  Gattonside 
was  granted  by  David  I.  to  Melrose  Abbey  in  1143,  and 
places  round  it  still  bear  such  names  as  the  Abbot's 
Meadow,  the  Vineyard,  Friar's  Close,  the  Cellary 
Meadow,  etc.  Gattonside  House,  J  mile  to  the  W,  is 
the  seat  of  Robert  Blair  Maconochie,  Esq.,  W.S.  (b. 
1814),  second  son  of  the  late  Lord  Meadowbank,  who 
holds  298  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £485  per  annum. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  25,  1865. 

Gauhsness,  a  place  on  the  W  coast  of  Dunrossness 
parish,  Shetland,  near  Fitful  Head.  A  vein  or  bed  of 
iron  pyrites  here  was,  many  years  ago,  unsuccessfully 
worked  with  the  view  of  finding  copper  ore  ;  and  then 
produced  many  hundred  tons  of  ii'on  pyrites,  which 
were  thrown  into  the  sea. 

Gauir  or  Gaoire,  a  stream  of  Fortingall  parish,  NW 
Perthshire,  issuing  from  Loch  Laidon  (924  feet),  which 
at  its  head  receives  the  Ba,  and  winding  7  miles  east- 
ward to  Loch  Rannooh  (668  feet),  mainly  across  bleak 
Rannoch  Muir.  It  expands  midway,  in  times  of  heavy 
rain,  into  a  large  temporary  lake.  Loch  Eigheach ; 
forms  several  tumultuous  far-sounding  waterfalls  ;  enters 
the  head  of  Loch  Rannoch  by  two  channels,  enclosing  a 
green  triangular  islet ;  and  contains  abundance  of  trout, 
running  from  J  to  3  lbs. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  64,  1373. 

Gaul.    See  Lochnagaul  and  Loohnangaul. 

Gauldry.     See  Galdkt. 

Gavel.    See  Geil. 

Gavieside,  a  village  of  recent  origin  in  West  Calder 
parish,  Edinburghshire,  2  miles  N  by  E  of  West  Calder 
town.     Pop.  (1871)  550,  (1881)  456. 

Gavinton,  a  village  in  Langton  parish,  Berwickshire, 
2  miles  SW  of  Duns.  Built  in  1760  to  supersede  the 
ancient  village  of  Langton,  which  stood  J  mile  to  the 
N,  it  took  its  name  from  Mr  Gavin,  the  then  proprietor, 
and  is  a  neat  place,  on  a  regular  plan,  with  a  post  office 
under  Duns  and  Langton  parish  church. 

Gawreer  or  Garrier,  a  burn  in  Cuuninghame  district, 
Ayrshire,  rising  2  miles  S  by  W  of  Stewarton,  and  run- 
ning 6i  miles  south-south-westward  along  the  boundary 
between  Dreghorn  parish  on  the  right  and  Kilmaurs  on 
the  left,  till  it  falls  into  Carmel  Water,  4^  furlongs 
above  the  Carmel's  influx  to  the  river  Irvine. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  22,  1865. 

Gaylet  Pot  or  Geary  Pot,  a  cavern  and  a  natural 
shaft  on  the  coast  of  St  Vigeans  parish,  Forfarshire, 
about  a  mile  S  of  Auchmithie  village.  The  cavern, 
piercing  the  base  of  a  cliff  150  feet  high,  opens  from 
the  sea  in  a  rude  archway  about  70  feet  high  and  40 
Nvide,  penetrates  the  land  to  the  distance  of  300  feet, 
and  gradually  contracts  to  a  minimum  height  and 
width  of  10  or  12  feet.  The  shaft  opens  in  the  midst 
of  an  arable  field,  goes  perpendicularly  down  to  the 
extremity  of  the  cavern,  is  proximately  circular  at  the 
mouth,  measures  there  150  feet  in  diameter,  and,  in  its 
descent  to  the  cavern,  has  an  outline  resembling  that 
of  an  inverted  urn.  The  sea  enters  the  cavern,  and 
takes  up  to  the  foot  of  the  shaft  the  fluctuations  of  the 
tide ;  and  when  it  is  urged  by  an  easterly  wind,  it 
bursts  in  at  high  water  with  amazing  impetuosity, 
surges  and  roars  with  a  noise  which  only  the  great  depth 
and  contractedness  of  the  shaft  prevent  from  being 
heard  at  a  considerable  distance,  and  then  recedes  with 
proportionate  violence,  and  makes  a  bellowing  exit  from 
the  cavern's  mouth. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  57,  1868. 

Geanach  or  Gannoch,  a  mountain  in  Birse  parish,  S 
Aberdeenshire,  4  miles  WNW  of  Mount  Battock,  near 
the  meeting-point  with  Kincardineshu-e  and  Forfarshire. 
It  belongs  to  the  Grampian  range,  and  has  an  altitude 
of  2396  feet  above  sea-level. 

Geanies  House.     See  Feakn,  Ross-shire. 

Gearr  Abhainn,  a  river  in  Inverary  parish,  Argyll- 
shire, running  5  furlongs  southward  from  the  river 
Shira's    expansion   of  Dotjloch   to   Loch  Fyne.     Its 


GEARY  POT 

water  is  alternately  fresh  and  salt,  according  to  the  ebb 
or  flow  of  the  tide  ;  and  is  well  stored  with  trout,  sal- 
mon, white  fish,  and  shell  fish.  Its  name  signifies 
'short  river,'  and  alludes  to  the  shortness  of  its  course. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  37,  1876. 

Geary  Pot.    See  Gaylet  Pot. 

Geauly  or  Gieuly.     See  Geldie  Burn. 

Ged.     See  Jed. 

Geddes  House,  a  mansion  in  Nairn  parish,  Nairnshire, 
i  miles  S  of  Nairn  town.  Standing  amid  liighly  em- 
bellished grounds,  it  is  the  seat  of  John  Mackintosh- 
Walker,  Esq.  (b.  1828  ;  sue.  1872),  who  holds  878  acres 
in  the  shire,  valued  at  £983  per  annum.  See  Naikn. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  84,  1876. 

Gail  or  Glengavel  Water,  a  rivulet  in  Avondale 
parish,  Lanarkshire,  rising  close  to  the  Ayrshire  bor- 
der, and  running  5  miles  north-north-westward,  till  it 
falls  into  the  Avon  at  a  point  5|  mUes  SW  of  Strathaven. 
—Ord.  Sur. ,  sh.  23,  1865. 

Geldie  Bum,  a  trout  and  salmon  stream  of  Crathie 
and  Braemar  parish,  SAV  Aberdeenshire,  rising,  at  an 
altitude  of  2300  feet  above  sea-level,  9  furlongs  SE  of 
the  meeting-point  of  Aberdeen,  Perth,  and  Inverness 
shires,  and  running  8^  miles  northward  and  eastward, 
till,  after  a  total  descent  of  982  feet,  it  falls  into  the 
Dee  at  a  point  3  miles  WSW  of  the  Linn  of  Dee.  See 
Feshie.— Orrf.  Sur.,  sh.  64,  1874. 

Geletra.    See  Gometra. 

Gelly,  Fife.     See  Loohgellt. 

Gelston  or  Gilston,  a  village  in  Kelton  parish,  Kirk- 
cudbrightshire, 2i  miles  SSE  of  Castle-Douglas,  under 
which  it  has  a  post  office.  Gelston  Castle,  i  mile  SE 
of  the  village,  was  built  by  the  late  Sir  William  Douglas, 
Bart.,  whose  niece  and  heiress,  Mrs  Maitland-Eirwan, 
holds  5080  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £3967  per 
annum.  An  ancient  parish  of  Gelston  now  forms  the 
south-eastern  district  of  Kelton.  Its  church  stood  ad- 
jacent to  a  ravine  or  giU,  traversed  by  a  brook,  and  has 
left  some  vestiges. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  5,  1857. 

Gelt  or  Guelt  Water,  an  AjTshire  burn  formed  by  the 
confluence  of  Back  Lane  and  Clocklowie  Burn,  and  wind- 
ing 4J  miles  west-north-westward  along  the  boundary 
between  New  and  Old  Cumnock  on  the  left  and  Auchin- 
leck  on  the  right,  tiU  it  unites  with  Glenmore  Water  at 
Kyle  Castle,  6  miles  E  of  Cumnock  town. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  15,  1S64. 

General's  Bridge.     See  Bowhill. 

General's  Hut.    See  Foyers. 

Genoch,  an  estate,  with  an  old-fashioned  mansion,  in 
Old  Luce  parish,  Wigtownshire,  IJ  mile  SW  of  Dunragit 
station. 

George,  Fort,  a  strong  regular  fortress  in  Ardersier 
parish,  Inverness-shire,  on  a  promontory  projecting  into 
the  Moray  Firth,  3  miles  NNW  of  Fort  George  station 
on  the  Highland  railwaj',  this  being  5f  miles  WSW  of 
Nairn  and  9J  NE  of  Inverness.  Station  and  fortress 
have  each  a  post  oSice,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank, 
and  telegraph  departments.  Built  three  years  after  the 
rebellion  of  1745,  at  an  estimated  cost  of  £120,000,  but 
an  actual  cost  of  more  than  £160,000,  it  covers  12  acres 
of  ground  ;  has  a  polj-gonal  line,  with  six  bastions  ;  is 
defended,  on  the  land  side,  by  a  ditch,  a  covert  way, 
a  glacis,  two  lunettes,  and  a  ravelin ;  is  bomb-proof 
and  strong,  yet  could  readily  be  assaUed  from  neigh- 
bouring ground  ;  and  contains  accommodation  for  2180 
men.  It  is  the  depot  of  the  Seaforth  or  78th  and  the 
Cameron  or  79th  Highlanders ;  and  its  inmates  num- 
bered 1202  in  1881,  of  whom  948  were  military.— Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  84,  1876. 

Georgemas  Junction,  a  station  in  Halkirk  parish, 
Caithness,  on  the  Sutherland  and  Caithness  railway, 
14  miles  WNW  of  Wick,  and  61  SSE  of  Thurso. 

Georgetown,  a  village  in  Dumfries  parish,  Dumfries- 
shire, 2i  miles  ESE  of  the  town. 

Gerardine's  Cave.     See  Drainie. 

Geylet  Pot.     See  Gaylet  Pot. 

Geyzen  Briggs,  a  shoal  or  broad  bar  across  the  Dor- 
noch Firth,  on  the  mutual  border  of  Ross-shire  and 
Sutherland,  3  miles  below  Tain.     It  greatly  obstructs 


GIFFORD 

navigation,  and  sometimes  occasions  a  tumultuous  roar 
of  breakers. 

Gharafata,  a  headland  in  KUmuir  parish,  Isle  of 
Skye,  Inverness-shire. 

Ghost's  Enowe.     See  Craigengelt. 

Ghulbhuinn  or  Ben  Gulabin,  a  hill  (2641  feet)  at  the 
head  of  Glenshee  in  Kirkmichael  parish,  NE  Perthshire. 

Giant's  Chair,  a  picturesque  spot  on  the  river  DuUan 
in  Mortlach  parish,  Banffshire.  A  beautiful  small  cas- 
cade here  is  called  the  Linen  Apron. 

Giant's  Fort  (Gael.  Dun-na-foghnikar),  one  of  two 
conjoint  ancient  circular  enclosures  in  the  southern 
division  of  KUlean  and  Kilchenzie  parish,  Kintyre, 
Argyllshire.  The  other  is  called  Dun  Fliinn  or  Fingal's 
Fort.  They  have  few  characters  definable  by  anti- 
quaries ;  but  they  attract  the  attention  of  travellers, 
and  are  vulgarly  regarded  as  ancient  residences  of  Fingal 
and  his  giants. 

Giant's  Leg,  a  natural  arch  on  the  S  coast  of  Bressay 
island,  Shetland.  It  projects  fi'om  a  cliff  into  the  sea, 
and  stands  in  such  depth  of  water  that  boats  can  pass 
through  it  in  favourable  weather. 

Giant's  Stone,  a  standing-stone  in  Tweedsmuir  parish, 
SW  Peeblesshire,  near  the  right  bank  of  the  Tweed,  ^ 
mile  SSW  of  the  church.  It  is  5  feet  high,  and  adjoins 
two  smaller  boulders. 

Gibbieston,  a  village  in  Auchtergaven  parish,  Perth- 
shire, 3J  miles  W  by  N  of  Bankfoot. 

Gibbon.     See  Craig  Gibboh-. 

Gibb's  Cross,  a  place  on  the  moors  of  Wedderlie  farm 
in  Westruther  parish,  Berwickshire,  3  mUes  NNE  of 
Westruther  village.  It  is  traditionally  said  to  have 
been  the  scene  of  a  martyrdom  for  the  Protestant  faith. 

Gieuly.    See  Geldie  Burn. 

Giffen.     See  Beith. 

Gifferton  or  Giffordtown,  a  village  in  CoUessie  parish, 
Fife,  li  mile  NW  of  Ladybank.  It  is  of  modern  erec- 
tion, and  consists  of  neat  comfortable  houses. 

Giffnock,  a  hamlet  in  Eastwood  parish,  Renfrewshire, 
1 J  mile  S  of  PoUokshaws.  It  has  a  station  on  the  Glas- 
gow and  Busby  railway,  and  lies  near  extensive  quarries 
of  an  excellent  buUding  sandstone,  popularly  called 
'  liver  rock. ' 

GifFord,  a  village  in  the  N  of  Yester  parish,  Hadding- 
tonshire, lying,  340  feet  above  sea-level,  on  the  right 
bank  of  Gifford  Water,  4 J  miles  SSE  of  Haddington. 
Set  in  a  wooded  vale,  and  sheltered  by  well  cultivated 
bills,  it  is  a  pretty  little  place,  its  two  streets  of  unequal 
length  consisting  chiefly  of  neat  two-story  houses,  and 
one  of  them  ending  in  the  fine  long  avenue  that  leads 
up  to  Yester  House.  It  has  a  post  ofiice  under  Had- 
dington, with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegi-aph 
departments,  an  inn,  two  public  schools,  and  fairs  on 
the  last  Tuesday  of  March,  the  third  Tuesday  of  June, 
and  the  iirst  Tuesday  of  October — this  last  having  still 
some  importance.  Here,  too,  are  Yester  parish  church 
(1708 ;  560  sittings)  and  a  handsome  new  Free  church 
(1880  ;  310  sittings).  The  latter  occupies  a  prominent 
position  on  the  rising-ground  above  the  village,  and, 
built  at  a  cost  of  £1700  in  the  Gothic  style  of  the  14th 
century,  has  a  NE  tower  and  spire.  Gifi'ord  has  claimed 
to  be  the  birthplace  of  John  Knox,  the  great  Reformer. 
Beza  in  his  Icoiies  (15S0)  calls  him  '  Giffordiensis  ; '  and 
Spottiswood  states  in  his  History (1627)  that  Knox  'was 
born  at  Gifford  in  the  Lothians. '  But  two  contemporary 
Catholic  writers,  Archibald  Hamilton  (1577)  and  James 
Laing  (1581),  assign  to  Haddington  the  honour  in 
question  ;  and  recent  investigation  has  proved,  more- 
over, that  no  village  of  Gifford  was  in  existence  until 
the  latter  half  of  the  17th  century.  So  that  the  late 
David  Laing,  who  in  1846  had  followed  Knox's  bio- 
grapher, Dr  Thomas  M'Crie,  in  preferring  Gifford, 
reversed  his  verdict  in  1864  in  favour  of  the  Giffordgate, 
a  suburb  of  Haddington  (article  '  Knox '  by  the  Rev. 
C.  G.  M'Crie,  in  Encycl.  Britannica,  9th  ed.,  vol.  xiv., 
1882).  Two  lesser  divines  at  least  were  natives — James 
Craig  (1682-1744)  and  John  Witherspoon,  D.D.  (1722- 
94),  the  president  of  Princetown  College,  New  Jersey. 
Though  the  village  thus  is  hardly  two  centuries  old,  it 

85 


GIFFORDGATE 

derived  its  name  from  the  GifFords,  who  under  William 
the  Lyon  (1165-1214)  added  Yestred  or  Yester  to  their 
Lothian  possessions,  and  after  whom  the  parish  itself  is 
often,  though  not  legally,  called  Giiford.  Their  male 
line  failed  with  one  Sir  Hugh  in  1409,  but  his  daughter 
wedded  an  ancestor  of  the  Marquis  of  Tweeddale,  the 
present  superior  of  Gifford.  Pop.  (1861)  458,  (1871) 
455,  (1881)  582.— Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  33,  1863. 

Giffordgate.    See  Haddington. 

Giffordtown.    See  Gifferton. 

Gifford  Water,  a  burn  of  Haddingtonshire,  rising,  as 
Hope  Water,  among  the  Lammermuirs,  at  an  altitude 
of  1500  feet,  in  the  southern  extremity  of  Garvald  and 
Bara  parish,  close  to  the  Berwickshire  border.  Thence 
it  winds  llj  miles  northward  and  north-westward 
through  or  along  the  borders  of  Garvald,  Yester,  Bol- 
ton, and  Haddington  parishes,  till  it  falls  into  the 
Tyne,  at  a  point  If  mile  SSW  of  the  town  of  Hadding- 
ton, and  190  feet  above  sea-level.  A  first-rate  trout- 
stream  of  much  gentle  beauty,  it  traverses  the  wooded 
gi-ounds  of  Yester  House,  Eaglescarnie,  Coalstoun,  and 
Lennoxlove,  and  bears  in  its  lower  reaches  the  name  of 
Coalstoun  Water.— Orrf.  Sur.,  sh.  33,  1863. 

Gigalum.     See  Gigultjm. 

Gigha,  an  island  and  a  parish  of  Argyllshire.  The 
island  lies  1|  mile  W  of  the  nearest  point  of  Kintyre, 
and  2J  miles  NW  of  Moniemore,  near  Tayinloan,  by 
ferry  to  Ardminish.  It  has  a  post  office  under  Greenock, 
and  communicates  by  boat  from  its  northeru  extremity 
with  the  steamers  on  the  passage  between  Tarbert  and 
Port  Ellen  or  Port  Askaig  in  Islay.  It  measures  6 
miles  in  length  from  NNE  to  SSW ;  varies  in  width 
between  1^  furlong  and  IJ  mile  ;  and,  with  the  neigh- 
boiiring  island  of  Caea,  has  an  area  of  3913J  acres, 
of  which  266J  are  foreshore.  Its  coast  is  so  jagged 
as  to  measure  25  miles  in  extent ;  and,  bold  and  rocky 
on  the  W  side,  has  there  two  caverns,  the  Great  and 
the  Pigeons'  Caves,  the  latter  of  which  is  coated  with 
calcareous  spar,  and  much  freqjiented  by  wild  pigeons. 
At  the  south-western  extremity  it  is  pierced  by  a 
natural  tunnel  133  feet  long,  with  two  vertical  aper- 
tures, and  so  invaded  by  surging  billows  in  a  storm 
as  to  emit  dense  vapour  and  loud  noises.  Much, 
too,  of  the  E  coast,  although  not  high,  is  bold  and 
rocky  enough  ;  and  here  are  various  sandy  bays,  very 
suitable  for  sea-bathing,  whilst  those  of  Ardminish, 
Druimyeon,  and  East  Tarbert  afford  good  anchorage. 
The  harbour,  on  the  N  side  of  the  islet  of  Gigulum,  is 
much  frequented  by  coasting  vessels,  and  is  considered 
safe  in  all  sorts  of  weather.  The  interior  westward 
attains  225  feet  beyond  the  church,  260  at  Meall 
a  Chlamaidh,  and  153  at  Cnoe  Loisgte.  The  rocks 
are  mica  slate,  felspar  slate,  chlorite  slate,  and  horn- 
blende slate,  ^vith  veins  of  quartz  and  a  few  transverse 
dykes  of  basalt.  The  soil,  except  on  the  hills,  is  a 
rich  loam,  with  a  mixture  here  and  there  of  sand, 
clay,  or  moss.  About  three-fifths  of  the  land  are 
in  tillage,  but  barely  7  acres  are  under  wood.  Springs 
of  good  water  are  plentiful,  and  two  of  them  afford 
water-power  to  a  corn-mill.  Some  ten  boats  are 
employed  during  three  or  four  months  of  the  year  in 
cod  and  ling  fishing  on  banks  2  or  3  miles  distant. 
Dunchiiie  or  Keefe's  Hill,  towards  the  middle  of  the 
island,  appears  to  have  been  anciently  crowned  with  a 
strong  fortification  ;  and  a  hill,  now  used  as  a  steamer 
signal-post,  at  the  northern  end  of  the  island,  is  crowned 
by  a  cairn,  called  'Watch  Cairn,'  and  seems  to  have 
formerly  served  as  a  beacon  station  for  giving  alarm 
in  case  of  invasion.  Achamore  House,  7  fui'longs 
SSW  of  the  church,  is  the  Scottish  seat  of  the  pro- 
prietor, Capt.  William  James  Scarlett  (b.  1839  ;  sue. 
1880). — The  parish  comprises  also  the  brownie-haunted 
island  of  Cara,  1  mile  to  the  S  of  Gigha,  and  185  feet 
high  at  the  Mull  of  Cara,  with  the  uninhabited  islet  of 
Gigulum  in  the  sound  between  them,  and  bears  the  name 
of  Gigha  and  Cara.  It  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Kintyre 
and  synod  of  Argyll ;  the  living  is  worth  £298.  The 
church,  which  stands  at  the  head  of  Ardminish  Bay,  was 
built  about  1780,  and  contains  260  sittings.  An  ancient 
S6 


GILLS 

chapel,  J  mile  SSW,  is  now  represented  by  ruined  waUs 
and  a  bm-ying-ground.  A  public  school,  with  accommo- 
dation for  S3  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance 
of  39,  and  a  grant  of  £44,  2s.  6d.  Valuation  (1882) 
£2466,  7s.  lOd.  Pop.  (1801)  556,  (1831)  534,  (1861) 
467,  (1871)  390,  (1881)  382,  of  whom  4  belonged  to  Cara. 
—Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  20,  1876.  See  Captain  Thomas  P. 
White's  ArchcEological  SJcctcJies  in  Kintyre  and  Gigha 
(2  vols.,  Edinb.,  1873-75). 

Gighay,  a  small  pastoral  island  of  Barra  parish,  Outer 
Hebrides,  Inverness-shire,  2  miles  SW  of  Eriskay,  and 
3  NE  of  the  nearest  point  of  Barra  island. 

Gight,  a  ruined  castle  in  Fyvie  parish,  N  Aberdeen- 
shire, on  the  left  bank  of  the  Ythan,  3J  miles  ENE 
of  Woodhead  or  Fyvie  village,  and  9  SE  of  Turriff. 
Crowning  the  brink  of  a  rocky  eminence,  with  the  Braes 
of  Gight  on  one  side,  and  the  Braes  of  Haddo  or  For- 
martine  on  the  other,  it  commands  a  circle  of  exquisite 
scenery,  dates  from  remote  times,  and  continued  to  be 
inhabited  till  the  latter  part  of  last  century.  It  figures 
commonly  in  history  as  the  House  of  Gight,  was  plun- 
dered by  the  Covenanters  in  1644,  and  now  is  remarkable 
only  for  the  great  strength  of  its  remaining  walls.  The 
estate,  having  belonged  for  many  generations  to  the 
Maitlands,  became  about  1479  the  property  of  William 
Gordon,  third  son  of  the  second  Earl  of  Huntly.  It 
remained  in  possession  of  his  lineal  descendants  till  1785, 
when  the  last  heiress,  Catherine  Gordon  of  Gight, 
married  the  Hon.  John  Byron  ;  so  that  it  would  have 
passed  to  their  son,  Lord  Byron  the  poet,  had  it  not 
been  sold  in  1787  to  the  third  Earl  of  Aberdeen. — Orel. 
Sur.,  sh.  87,  1876. 

Gighty,  a  bm-n  of  Forfarshire,  rising  near  Rossie  Re- 
formatory, and  running  5J  miles  south-westward  along 
the  borders  of  Craig,  Maryton,  Lunan,  Kinnell,  and  In- 
verkeilor  parishes,  till  it  falls  into  Lunan  Water  at  a 
point  If  mile  E  of  Friockheim.  It  drives  several  mills. 
—Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  57,  1868. 

Gigulum,  an  uninhabited  islet  of  Gigha  parish,  Argyll- 
shire, in  the  sound  between  Gigha  island  and  Cara.  It 
measures  2J  furlongs  by  1. 

Gilbertfield,  a  decayed  mansion  in  Cambuslang  parish, 
Lanarkshire,  at  the  N  base  of  Dechmont  Hill,  1  mile 
SE  of  the  town.  Built  in  1607,  it  was  for  some  time 
the  residence  of  Allan  Ramsay's  friend  and  brother- 
poet.  Lieutenant  William  Hamilton  of  Gilbertfield 
(1670-1751). 

Gil  Bum,  a  rivulet  in  Borrowstounness  parish,  Lin- 
lithgowshire, rising  near  the  centre  of  the  parish,  and 
running  along  a  beautiful  ravine  to  the  Firth  of  Forth. 
Its  glen,  according  to  tradition,  is  haunted  by  the 
wraith  of  AUie  or  Alice,  Lady  LUburne,  who  threw  her- 
self down  from  the  walls  of  Kiuneil  House,  and  who  was 
either  the  mistress  of  a  Duke  of  Hamilton  or  the  wife  of 
the  Cromwellian  colonel  for  some  time  resident  at 
Kinneil. 

Gilcomston.    See  Aberdeen. 

Gildermorry,  a  place  in  Alness  parish,  Ross-shire. 
It  is  the  site  of  a  pre-Reformation  chapel ;  and  near  it 
are  two  huge  stones  of  very  extraordinary  appearance, 
Clach-nam-han  ('stone  of  the  women"),  which  are  said 
to  mark  the  spot  where  several  women  were  smothered 
by  a  snowstorm  on  their  way  to  the  chapel. 

Gilfillan,  a  place  near  the  middle  of  Sorbie  parish, 
Wigtownshire.     It  was  the  site  of  an  ancient  church. 

Gill,  a  reach  of  the  river  Cree  on  the  mutual  boun- 
dary of  Kirkcudbrightshire  and  Wigtownshire,  com- 
mencing about  a  mile  NNW  of  Minnigaff  church.  It 
traverses  a  narrow  gorge,  richly  fringed  with  wood,  and 
romantically  picturesque. 

Gill  or  Port  Gill,  a  small  bay  on  the  mutual  border 
of  Stonykirk  and  Kirkmaiden  parishes,  Wigtownshire, 
8J  miles  SE  by  S  of  Portpatrick. 

Gillander,  a  cave  in  the  E  of  Golspie  parish,  Suther- 
land. It  occurs  on  the  face  of  a  white  sandstone  rock, 
and  seems  to  have  been  gradually  formed  by  atmospheric 
action. 

Gillean.     See  Locealsh. 

Gills,  a  village  and  a  bay  in  Canisbay  parish,  Caith- 


GILLYBURN 

ness.  The  village  stands  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  li  mile 
W  of  the  parish  church,  and  15|  mOes  E  by  N  of  Thurso. 
The  bay  has  a  triangular  outline,  measuring  3  miles 
across  the  entrance,  and  7  furlongs  thence  to  its  inmost 
recess.  It  is  sheltered  by  Stroma  island,  but  lies  open 
to  the  NE  and  the  NNW,  and  has  a  beach  of  flat  rocks 
and  shingles. — Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  116,  1878. 

Gillybum,  a  hamlet  in  Little  Dunkeld  parish,  Perth- 
shire, 4  mile  NW  of  Murthly  station. 

Gilmansoleuch,  a  ravine,  traversed  by  a  burn,  in 
Kirkhope  parish,  Selldrkshire,  descending  from  Black- 
knowe  Hill  (1806  feet)  IJ  mile  to  the  river  Ettrick  at  a 
point  SJ  miles  NE  of  Tushielaw  Inn. 

Gilmerton,  a  mansion  in  Athelstaneford  parish,  Had- 
dingtonshire, 4  miles  NE  of  Haddmgton,  and  Sj  ESE 
■of  Drem  Junction.  It  is  the  seat  of  Sir  Alexander 
Kinloch,  tenth  Bart,  since  1686  (b.  1830  ;  sue.  1879), 
Avho  holds  2846  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £7673  per 
3.mmm.— Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  33,  1863. 

Gilmerton,  a  modern,  well-built  village  in  Fowlis- 
Wester  parish,  Perthshire,  2  miles  NE  of  Crieff,  under 
■which  it  has  a  post  office. 

Gilmerton,  a  village  and  a  quoad  sacra  parish  in 
Liberton  parish,  Edinburghshire.  The  village  by  road 
is  4  miles  SSE  of  Edinburgh,  and  3  WNW  of  Dalkeith  ; 
whilst  its  station  on  the  Loanhead  and  Glencorse  branch 
of  the  North  British,  f  mOe  SSE,  is  84  miles  from 
the  former  city.  Standing  high,  400  feet  above  sea- 
level,  and  commanding  a  fine  view  of  Edinburgh,  it 
comprises  three  streets,  and  mainly  consists  of  low 
one-story  cottages.  At  it  are  a  post  office,  an  inn,  a 
police  station,  3  schools,  an  adult  and  a  children's 
convalescent  home  (1881),  and  the  quoad  sacra  church  ; 
whilst  on  its  SW  outskirt  stands  Gilmerton  House, 
an  old-fashioned  white  mansion,  whose  owner,  Sir 
David  Baird  of  Newbyth,  Bart.,  holds  751  acres  in 
the  shire,  valued  at  £3456  per  annum,  besides  £400  for 
minerals.  Coal  of  prime  quality  has  here  been  mined 
since  1627  and  earlier,  and  down  to  the  opening  of  the 
Dalkeith  railway  the  carters  or  coal-bearers  of  Gilmer- 
ton, who  largely  furnished  Edinburgh  with  fuel,  formed 
a  class  by  themselves.  The  humours  of  their  annual 
horse  races,  'My  Lord's, 'as  they  were  called,  are  vividly 
sketched  by  Moir  in  Maiisic  JVaucTi.  Ironstone,  too, 
has  been  mined  for  a  number  of  years  ;  and  the  work- 
ing of  it  is  likely  to  be  greatly  extended  under  the 
management  of  the  newly-formed  Caledonian  Steel 
and  Iron  Company.  A  little  to  the  NW  of  the  vil- 
lage is  a  limestone  quarry  of  vast  extent,  the  oldest 
perhaps  in  Scotland,  at  all  events  worked  from  imme- 
morial time.  At  first  it  was  worked  from  the  sur- 
face, afterwards  it  was  mined ;  and  the  produce  was 
brought  up  in  successive  epochs  by  women,  by  asses, 
and  by  steam-power.  Even  with  the  aid  of  machinery 
it  ceased  at  length  to  repay  the  cost  of  working,  and 
since  1827  it  has  been  almost  entirely  abandoned.  Now, 
like  a  huge  deep  trench,  f  mile  long,  it  presents  a 
shelving  declivity,  overgrown  with  brushwood  and  wild 
flowers,  and  sending  off  lateral  caverns,  whose  roof  of 
soUd  rock  is  upborne  by  massive  piers,  left  as  props  in 
the  process  of  mining.  This  vast  colonnaded  cavern, 
instead  of  proceeding  far  inwards,  where  the  rapid  dip 
of  the  stratum — at  an  angle  of  45° — would  have  carried 
the  miner  too  far  beneath  the  surface,  advances  obliquely 
up  the  side  of  the  ridge  or  hill,  and  thus  one  may  wan- 
der some  way  underground  and  yet  never  lose  the  fight  of 
day.  At  the  village  itself,  near  the  entrance  from 
Edinburgh,  is  a  singular  cave,  hewn  from  the  solid  rock 
dming  1719-24  by  a  blacksmith  named  George  Paterson. 
Rooms,  beds,  and  a  table  bearing  aloft  a  punch-bowl, 
all  are  nicely  chiselled  from  the  rock,  which  thus  pro- 
vided both  dwelling-house  and  furniture.  Several  aper- 
tm-es  in  the  roof  served  for  windows  to  let  in  the  light 
from  above.  The  constructor  of  this  strange  subter- 
ranean abode  had  it  fitted  up  with  a  well,  a  washing- 
house,  and  a  forge ;  and  here,  pursuing  his  craft,  he 
lived  with  his  family  till  his  death,  about  1735.  The 
cave  was  for  years  a  great  object  of  curiosity,  and  even 
yet  has  occasional  visits  paid  to  it.     The  quoad  sacra 


GIRTHON 

parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Edinburgh  and  synod  of 
Lothian  and  Tweeddale ;  the  stipend,  from  enQo^^^nent 
of  1860,  is  £120  with  a  manse.  The  church  was  built 
as  a  chapel  of  ease  in  1837,  and  enlarged  by  two  aisles 
in  1882.  The  public,  the  female  industrial,  and  Mr 
Moore's  school,  with  respective  accommodation  for  267, 
76,  and  110  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance 
of  101,  73,  and  90,  and  grants  of  £92,  13s.  6d.,£64,  6s., 
and  £48,  17s.  8d.  For  the  female  industrial  school  an 
elegant  new  schoolroom  and  teacher's  house  were  built  in 
1882  at  the  expense  of  the  Misses  Anderson  of  Moreduu. 
Pop.  of  village  (1861)  596,  (1871)  765,  (1881)  1082;  of 
q.  s.  parish  (1871)  1062,  (1881)  nZQ.—Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
32,  1857. 

Gilmilnscroft,  a  mansion  in  Sorn  parish,  Ayrshire,  2| 
mUes  E  by  S  of  Catrine.  Its  owner.  Miss  Gray  Far- 
quhar  (sue.  1845),  the  representative  of  an  old  Ayrshire 
family,  holds  2386  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1071 
per  annum. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  14,  1863. 

Gihnour's  Limij  a  beautiful  cascade  on  Touch  Burn, 
in  St  Ninians  parish,  Stirlingshire. 

Gilnockie,  a  station  on  the  Langholm  branch  of  the 
North  British  railway,  in  Canonbie  parish,  Dumfries- 
shire, 2|  mUes  N  by  W  of  Riddings  Junction,  and  4J 
SSE  of  Langholm.  The  Border  peel-tower  of  Gilnockie 
stood  on  a  small  promontory,  washed  on  three  sides  by 
the  river  Esk,  so  steep  and  rocky  as  to  be  scarcely  ac- 
cessible except  on  the  land  side,  and  defended  there 
by  a  deep  ditch.  It  gave  designation  to  Johnie  Arm- 
strong, the  Border  freebooter  of  ballad  fame,  and  puts 
in  a  claim  against  Hollows  Tower,  a  little  higher  up 
the  river,  to  have  been  his  principal  residence.  Seem- 
ingly it  became  ruinous  soon  after  Armstrong's  execu- 
tion by  James  V.  at  Caerlanrig  (1529) ;  and,  eventually 
obliterated  to  make  room  for  a  bridge  over  the  river,  it 
is  now  not  represented  by  even  the  slightest  vestige. 
(See  DuME. )  Distinct  remains  of  a  Roman  station  are 
on  a  rising-ground  a  little  N  of  the  station. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  11,  1863. 

Gilp,  a  burn  and  a  bay  on  the  mutual  boimdary  of 
Kilmichael  -  Glassary  and  North  Enapdale  parishes, 
Argyllshire.  The  burn  has  a  brief  course  south-east- 
ward to  the  bay's  head.  The  bay.  Loch  Gilp,  descends 
from  the  burn's  mouth,  2J  miles  south-south-eastward, 
into  line  with  the  great  southward  reach  of  Loch  Fyne, 
and  broadens  gradually  from  3  furlongs  to  If-  mile.  It 
sends  off,  from  its  "W  side,  the  Crinan  Canal ;  and  is 
mostly  so  shallow  as  not  to  be  navigable  for  boats  of  any 
considerable  burden  at  low  tide.  See  Lochgilphead, 
Aedkishaig,  and  Ceinan  Canal. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  29, 
1873. 

Gilston,  Eirkcudbrightshire.     See  Gelston. 

Giouly.     See  Geldie  Burn 

Girdle  Ness,  a  promontory  in  Nigg  parish,  Kincar- 
dineshire, flanking  the  S  side  of  the  mouth  of  the  river 
Dee,  and  terminating  2  mUes  ESE  of  Aberdeen.  It 
forms  the  eastern  extremity  of  a  spur  of  the  Grampian 
mountains ;  and  is  crowned  with  a  lighthouse,  which, 
built  in  1833  at  a  cost  of  £11,940,  shows  two  fixed 
lights,  115  and  185  feet  above  mean  tide,  and  visible  at 
the  distance  of  16  and  19  nautical  mUes. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  77,  1873. 

Girlsta.    See  Tingwall. 

Gimigoe.    See  Castles  Girnigoe  and  Sinclair. 

Gimock  Bum,  a  rivulet  in  Crathie  and  Braemar 
parish,  SW  Aberdeenshire,  rising  at  an  altitude  of  1800 
feet,  and  running  6  j  miles  north-north-eastward  to  the 
river  Dee,  at  a  point  3  mUes  W  by  N  of  BaUater. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  65,  1870. 

Girthgate,  an  ancient  bricUe-road  in  Roxburghshire 
and  Edinburghshire,  leading  northward  from  Old  Mel- 
rose up  the  vale  of  Allen  Water  and  over  the  moors  to 
the  ancient  hospice  of  Soutra.  Traces  of  it  stUl  exist. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  25,  33,  1865-63. 

Girthhead,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Wamphray 
parish,  Dumfriesshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Annan, 
1 J  mile  S  by  W  of  Wamphray  station. 

Girthon,  a  parish  of  SW  Kirkcudbrightshire,  contain- 
ing the  greater  part  of  the  post-town  of  Gatehouse,  and 

87 


GIEVAN 

trayersed  across  its  northern  lialf  by  4|  miles  of  the 
Portpatrick  section  of  the  Glasgow  and  South-Western 
railway.  It  is  bounded  N  and  NE  by  Eells,  E  by  Bal- 
maghie  and  Tw3mholm,  SE  by  Borgue,  SW  by  Wig- 
town Bay,  W  by  Anwoth  and  Kirkmabreck,  and  NW 
by  Minnigaff.  Its  utmost  length,  from  N  to  S,  is  14J 
miles  ;  its  breadth  varies  between  1|  and  6|  miles  ;  and 
its  area  is  34,993J  acres,  of  which  943 J  are  foreshore 
and  675J  water.  The  river  Dee  winds  6  miles  east- 
south-eastward  along  all  the  boundary  with  Eells,  and 
from  Girthon  is  fed  by  a  dozen  or  so  of  burns  ;  but  the 
drainage  mainly  belongs  to  the  Water  of  Fleet,  which, 
with  its  principal  head-stream,  traces  all  the  western 
border,  and  from  the  interior  receives  Little  Water  of 
Fleet  and  numberless  lesser  tributaries.  Four  lakes, 
with  their  utmost  length  and  breadth  and  their  altitude 
above  sea-level,  are  Loch  Whinyeon  (4 J  x  4 J  furl.  ; 
725  feet),  on  the  Twynholm  border ;  Loch  Skerrow 
(5J  X  4  furl.  ;  425  feet),  close  to  the  Balmaghie  border  ; 
Loch  Fleet  (3x2  furl.  ;  1120  feet),  in  the  north-western 
interior ;  and  Loch  Grexnoch  (2  miles  x  3  furl.  ;  680 
feet),  on  the  Minnigaff  border.  Three-fourths  of  the 
land,  comprising  all  the  northern  and  most  of  the  cen- 
tral division,  with  a  strip  along  the  eastern  border,  is 
bleak  and  heathy  upland,  with  but  few  spots  devoted  to 
tillage  or  capable  of  producing  corn.  The  upland  con- 
sists rather  of  broad  masses,  irregularly  intersected  by 
water-courses,  than  of  continuous  ridges  or  distinct 
hills,  and  rarely  rises  to  mountain  altitude.  Some  of 
the  principal  summits,  from  S  to  N,  are  Cairntook  Hill 
(1000  feet),  Gastramont  Hill  (700),  White  Top  of  Cul- 
reoch  (1000),  Craiglowrie  (1079),  Craigronald  (1684), 
Craigwhinnie  (1367),  Auchencloy  Hill  (684),  Shaw  Hill 
(1255),  and  Bound  FeU  (1319).  The  rest  of  the  land, 
comprising  a  strip  along  the  middle  and  lower  reaches 
of  the  Fleet,  is  chiefly  undulating,  partly  flat  or  gently 
sloping,  and  all  of  it  fertile,  finely  cultivated,  and 
highly  embellished.  Granite  predominates  throughout 
the  uplands,  and  metamorphic  rocks,  chiefly  clay  slate, 
prevail  in  the  lowlands.  Slate  has  been  quarried  on 
Culreoch  farm ;  and  a  vein  of  copper  ore,  on  the  lands 
of  Enrick,  was  leased,  and  for  some  time  worked,  by  a 
Welsh  company.  The  soil  of  the  uplands  is  very  poor  ; 
that  of  the  lowlands  is  naturally  various,  and  has  been 
highly  improved.  About  4000  acres  are  regularly  or 
occasionally  in  tillage,  and  a  fair  proportion  throughout 
the  lowlands  is  under  wood.  Three  small  ancient  moats 
are  at  Gastramont,  Enrick,  and  Bush  Park ;  and  at 
Enrick  stood  an  occasional  residence  of  first  the  abbots 
of  Tongland,  nest  the  bishops  of  Galloway,  which  has  be- 
queathed to  its  site  the  name  of  Palace  Yard.  The  Rev. 
William  Erskine,  who  figures  among  the  worthies  in 
Wodrow's  History  of  the  Sufferings  of  the  Church  of  Scot- 
land, was  minister  of  this  parish,  in  which,  at  Auchen- 
cloy, Claverhouse  shot  four  Covenanters,  18  Dec.  1684. 
Besides  the  three  Faeds,  the  celebrated  artists,  already 
noticed  under  Barlay  Mill,  natives  of  Girthon  were 
Captain  James  Murray  Denniston  (1770-1857),  author  of 
Legends  of  Galloway,  and  Thomas  Murray,  LL.D. 
(1792-1872),  author  of  the  Literary  History  of  Galloicay. 
Mansions,  both  separately  noticed,  are  Gaily  and  Gastra- 
mont ;  and  2  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of 
£500  and  upwards,  17  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Girthon  is 
in  the  presbytery  of  Kirkcudbright  and  synod  of  Gallo- 
way ;  the  living  is  worth  £203.  The  old  church,  2 
miles  SSE  of  Gatehouse,  is  a  roofless  ruin,  with  a  grave- 
yard, the  Broughton  vault,  and  the  grave  of  '  Kobert 
Lennox,  who  was  shot  to  death  by  Grier  of  Lagg,  in  the 
paroch  of  Tongland,  for  his  adherence  to  Scotland's 
Covenants,  1685.'  A  little  further  S  is  the  site  of  the 
Mill  of  Girthon  or  the  Lake,  whose  miller  was  fined  in 
1300  by  Edward  I.  of  England.  The  present  parish 
church  is  noticed,  with  three  other  places  of  worship 
and  the  schools,  under  Gatehouse.  Valuation  (1860) 
£7328,  (1882)  £8942,  2s.  lOd.  Pop.  (1801)  1727,  (1831) 
1751,  (1861)  1702,  (1871)  1586,  (1881)  1415.— Orrf.  Sur., 
shs.  5,  4,  8,  9,  1857-63. 

Girvan,  a  town  and  a  parish  in  Carrick  district,  Ayr- 
shire.    The  town  stands  on  the  coast  at  the  mouth  of 


GIEVAN 

the  Water  of  Girvan,  10  miles  by  sea  E  by  S  of  Ailsa 
Craig,  whilst  by  two  sections  of  the  Glasgow  and  South- 
western railway — the  Maybole  and  Girvan  (1860)  and 
the  Girvan  and  Portpatrick  Junction  (1876) — it  is  21i 
miles  SSW  of  Ayr,  62  SSW  of  Glasgow,  and  45  NNE  of 
Portpatrick.  Its  name  originally  was  Invergarvan,  in 
allusion  to  Girvan  Water,  which  was  formerly  called 
the  Garvan  ;  and  it  seems  to  have  been  founded  in  the 
11th  century,  but  never  till  a  recent  period  rose  above 
the  condition  of  a  village.  Extending  southward  from 
the  river's  mouth  along  the  shore,  and  overlooked  by 
hills  that  culminate  a  mile  inland  at  827  feet  above  sea- 
level,  it  enjoys  a  delightful  site,  picturesque  surround- 
ings, and  a  splendid  view  of  the  Firth  of  Clyde,  but 
possesses  few  attractions  of  its  own.  Robert  Heron,  in 
his  JoiLrney  through  the  Western  Counties  of  Scotland  in 
1792,  though  liberal  enough  in  praises  generally,  of 
Girvan  wrote  : — '  The  houses  are  huts  more  miserable 
than  those  of  Ballantrae.  They  are  so  low  as  to  seem, 
at  the  S  end  of  the  village,  rather  caves  dug  in  the 
earth  than  houses  buUt  upon  it ;  though,  on  the  NW 
side  and  close  upon  the  banks  of  the  river,  there  are 
some  more  decent  and  commodious  houses.'  The  town 
has  been  greatly  extended  and  vastly  improved  since 
Heron's  day,  and  it  now  contains  some  very  fair  public 
buildings  and  numerous  comfortable  private  houses ; 
yet  it  still  is  far  inferior  in  structure  and  aspect  to 
many  Scotch  towns  of  its  size,  and  looks  more  like  an 
overgrown  village  than  even  a  third-rate  considerable 
town.  Many  or  most  of  its  houses  are  still  one-story 
cottages,  containing  merely  a  dwelling-room  and  weaver's 
workshop ;  and  even  a  considerable  proportion  of  the 
recently-built  ones  are  small  untidy  tenements,  occupied 
by  cotton  weavers,  not  a  few  of  them  immigi-ant  Irish. 
The  parish  church  (1770 ;  760  sittings)  in  the  autumn 
of  1882  was  about  to  be  rebuilt  at  a  cost  of  £4000. 
The  South  church,  bmlt  as  a  chapel  of  ease  in  1839,  and 
containing  900  sittings,  was  raised  in  1875  to  quoad 
sacra  status.  Other  places  of  worship  are  a  Free  church 
(1844),  a  U.P.  church  (1870  ;  450  sittings),  St  John's 
Episcopal  church,  and  the  Roman  Catholic  church  of  the 
Sacred  Hearts  (1860 ;  200  sittings).  Girvan,  besides, 
has  a  post  ofiice,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  in- 
surance, and  telegraph  departments,  branches  of  the 
British  Linen  Co.,  Commercial,  National,  Royal,  and 
Union  Banks,  offices  or  agencies  of  25  insurance  com- 
panies, 2  hotels,  a  town-hall,  assembly  rooms,  a  Me- 
chanics' Institute,  a  reading-room,  a  lifeboat  institution, 
a  gas-light  company,  a  weekly  market  on  Monday,  and 
fairs  on  the  first  Monday  of  April  and  October.  Cotton- 
weaving  is  still  carried  on,  though  not  as  in  1838,  when 
the  number  of  hand-looms,  including  a  few  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, was  no  less  than  1800,  the  fabrics  woven 
being  almost  all  coarse  cottons  for  the  manufacturers  of 
Glasgow.  A  harbom',  at  the  mouth  of  Girvan  Water, 
was  formerly  capable  of  admitting  only  vessels  of  small 
burden,  but  has  undergone  gi-eat  improvement  of  recent 
years.  The  latest  extension,  undertaken  in  1881,  and 
estimated  to  cost  £12,000,  includes  the  carrying  out  of 
a  pier  from  the  W  side,  and  of  a  breakwater  from  the 
NE  side,  of  the  present  harbour,  which  will,  when 
completed,  resemble  that  of  Eyemouth.  A  steamer 
plies  backwards  and  forwards  to  Glasgow  once  a  week. 
A  burgh  of  barony  under  the  superiority  of  the  pro- 
prietor of  Bargany,  Girvan  received  its  first  charter  in 
1696,  but  did  not  enjoy  burgh  privileges  till  1785.  It 
is  governed  by  2  bailies  and  12  other  councillors,  whilst 
the  harbour  is  managed  by  12  commissioners.  Sherifi' 
small  debt  courts  are  held  three  times  a  year ;  and  a 
justice  of  peace  small  debt  court  sits  on  the  first  Monday 
of  every  month.  Municipal  constituency  (1882)  310. 
Pop.  (1836)  5300,  (1851)7300,  (1861)5927,  (1871)-4791, 
(1881)  4505.  Houses  (1881)  875  iahabited,  80  vacant, 
1  buUding. 

The  parish  of  Girvan  is  bounded  N  by  Kirkoswald, 
NE  by  Dailly,  SE  by  Barr,  S  by  Colmonell,  and  W  by 
the  Firth  of  Clyde.  Its  utmost  length,  from  N  to  S,  is 
7 J  mUes ;  its  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  varies  between  \% 
»nd  5J  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  14,954  acres,  of  which  322 


GIRVAN,  WATER  OF 

are  foreshore  and  52  water.  The  coast-line,  8J  miles 
long,  is  closelj'  skirted  by  the  road  to  Ballantrae,  and, 
offering  few  and  inconsiderable  curvatures,  over  all  but 
the  southernmost  2J  miles  is  low,  with  a  boiilder-strewn 
beach,  covered  thickly  with  seaweed.  From  Ardwell 
southwards  to  Pinhain  it  is  bold  and  rocky,  the  road 
itself  attaining  100  feet  above  sea-level  at  the  southern 
extremity  of  the  parish,  and  the  surface  thence  rising 
rapidly  inland  to  973  feet  at  Grey  Hill  and  734  at  Pin- 
hain "Hill.  The  AVater  of  Gievan"  winds  1  mile 
south-south-westward  along  the  Dailly  border,  then  3J 
miles  west-south-westward  through  the  interior  to  its 
mouth  at  Girvan  harbour  ;  and,  at  the  SE  corner  of  the 
parish,  the  Stinohar  traces  1  mile  of  the  boundary 
with  Barr  and  Colmonell,  and  from  Girvan  is  fed  by 
the  "Water  of  Assel,  running  5  miles  south-westward, 
southward,  and  south-eastward.  The  surface  generally 
is  hilly,  from  N  to  S  attaining  275  feet  above  sea-level 
near  Boghead,  639  near  Brae,  970  at  Saugh  Hill,  923  at 
Trower  Hill,  SS3  near  Laggan,  701  at  Byne  Hill,  and 
971  at  Kirkland  Hill,  which  culminates  right  on  the 
Barr  border.  The  tract  to  the  N  of  the  town  is  flat  in 
places,  but  on  the  whole  presents  an  undulating  appear- 
ance, and  is  fertile,  well  cultivated,  and  finely  embel- 
lished. The  southern  district  is  to  a  large  extent  pas- 
toral. Sandstone  conglomerate  is  the  predominant 
rock,  and  extends  for  a  considerable  distance  along  the 
beach  ;  whinstone,  both  grey  and  blue,  is  sufficiently 
plentiful  and  accessible  to  furnish  material  for  all  the 
local  buildings  ;  and  limestone  has  been  worked  pretty 
largely  in  the  E.  Coal,  though  abimdant  in  Dailly, 
does  not  seem  to  pass  within  the  limits  of  Gu'van  ;  but 
excellent  copper  ore  has  been  found,  and  is  supposed  to 
exist  in  considerable  quantity ;  whilst  gypsum,  shell 
marl,  and  coarse  potter's  clay  are  also  found  ;  and  the 
last  has  long  been  extensively  used  for  tile-work.  The 
soil  of  the  arable  lands  has  much  diversity  of  character, 
but  is  mostly  a  dry  light  mould  on  a  sandy  or  gravelly 
bottom.  Vestiges  of  live  ancient  camps  occur  near  the 
sea,  one  of  them  engirt  by  two  concentric  ditches.  Of 
several  pre-Reformation  chapels,  the  chief  were  Eirk- 
dominfe  in  the  SE  and  Chapel-Donan  in  the  N.  St 
Guthbert's  itself,  the  ancient  parish  church,  was  held 
by  Crossraguel  abbey ;  its  graveyard  in  1611  was  the 
scene  of  a  singular  episode.  A  murdered  retainer  of 
Kennedy  of  Colzeau  had  here  been  buried,  when  his 
master  the  laird  was  moved  by  a  dream  to  have  him 
disinterred,  that  all  who  lived  near  might  come  and 
touch  the  corpse.  All  did  so  but  John  Mure  of  Aucheu- 
drane  and  his  son,  whom  none  suspected,  till  young 
Mary  Mui'e,  his  daughter,  perceiving  the  crowd,  went 
in  among  them.  When  she  came  near  the  dead  body, 
the  blood  started  from  it,  whereon  her  father  was  appre- 
hended and  put  to  the  torture.  Aedmillvx  is  the 
chief  mansion  ;  and  9  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual 
value  of  £500  and  upwards,  6  of  between  £100  and 
£500,  17  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  6i  of  from  £20  to 
£50.  Girvan  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Ayr  and  synod  of 
Glasgow  and  Ajt  ;  the  living  is  worth  £421.  Fom-  public 
schools — the  Bm-gh,  Assel,  Doune,  and  Girvan — and  a 
Roman  Catholic  school,  with  respective  accommodation 
for  685,  45,  100,  207,  and  115  children,  had  (18S1)  an 
average  attendance  of  392,  42,  57,  193,  and  77,  and 
grants  of  £272,  5s.  6d. ,  £49,  7s. ,  £44,  6s. ,  £182,  IDs.  6d. , 
and  £18,  193.  4d.  Valuation  (1860)  £18,675  ;  (1882) 
£22,506,  14s.  Sd.,  ^Zms  £1611  for  railways.  Pop.  (1801) 
2260,  (1831)  6430,  (1861)  7053,  (1871)  5685,  (1881) 
5480,  of  whom  2831  were  in  Girvan  ecclesiastical  parish, 
and  2649  in  that  of  South  Church.— 0;yZ.  Sicr.,  shs.  7, 
8,  1863. 

Girvan,  Water  of,  a  stream  of  Carrick,  Ayrshire, 
rising  in  the  E  of  Barr  parish,  at  an  altitude  of  2050 
feet  above  sea-level,  5i-  miles  WSW  of  the  head  of  Loch 
Doon.  Thence  it  winds  17|  miles  north-north-westward 
to  the  neighbourhood  of  Kirkmichael  village,  and  thence 
again  18  miles  south-westward,  till  it  falls  into  the 
Firth  of  Clyde  at  Girvan  town,  only  14  miles  WNW  of 
its  source  as  the  crow  flies.  It  traverses  or  skirts  the 
parishes  of  Straiton,  Kirkmichael,  Maybole,  Kh'koswald, 
43 


GLADNET 

DaUly,  and  Girvan  ;  and  in  the  first  of  these  it  flows 
through  five  lakes,  the  largest  of  which  are  Lochs  Lure 
and  Bradan.  The  scenery  hereabouts  is  bleak  and 
cheerless ,  but  lower  down  the  Girvan 's  course  lies  through 
the  fine  demesnes  of  Blairquhan,  Dalquharran,  Bargany, 
and  Killochan — boyish  haunts  these  of  the  great  land- 
scape painter,  Thomson  of  Duddingston.  It  is  closely 
followed  by  the  Maybole  and  Girvan  railway,  from  a 
point  IJ  mile  SW  of  Crossbill  village  ;  and  it  contains 
good  store  of  trout,  with  occasional  salmon. — Ord.  Sur., 
shs.  8,  14,  8,  7,  1863. 

Girvan  and  Portpatrick  Railway,  The,  extends 
from  Girvan,  the  terminus  in  Ayrshire  of  the  Glasgow 
and  South-Western  railway,  to  a  junction  with  the 
Portpatrick  Railway  at  East  Challoch,  near  Dun- 
ragit,  in  the  parish  of  Glenluce  and  county  of  Wig- 
town. In  1846  there  was  projected  the  Glasgow  and 
Belfast  Union  railway,  a  line  proposed  to  leave  Ayr  for 
Girvan  and  proceed  southwards  into  Galloway.  The 
powers  then  obtained  only  covered  the  line  to  Maybole 
and  Girvan,  although  the  extended  line  was  in  con- 
templation. The  project  was  allowed  to  lapse,  and  the 
line  to  Maybole  was  not  opened  till  1856  (under  an 
act  obtained  in  1854) ;  in  1860,  under  a  later  act, 
the  line  was  opened  to  Girvan.  In  1865  the  Girvan 
and  Portpatrick  railway  was  sanctioned,  but  the  matter 
lay  in  abeyance  ;  and  in  1870  the  time  for  complet- 
ing the  line  was  extended,  a  further  extension  of  time 
being  obtained  in  1873.  The  first  sod  was  cut  in  Sept. 
1871,  and  in  Oct.  1876  the  railway  was  opened  for 
traffic.  The  line  is  SOJ  miles  long,  with  a  single  line 
of  rails.  Crossing  Gii'van  Water,  it  ascends  a  steep 
gradient  for  4  miles,  passes  through  a  tunnel  of  500 
yards,  and  crosses  the  Stinchar  and  the  Dhuisk  on 
important  bridges.  After  passing  Barrhill  it  follows 
the  valley  of  Cross  Water  of  Luce,  and  crosses  the 
Luce  by  a  viaduct  of  ten  arches.  In  the  course  of 
the  construction  of  the  line,  the  works  were  seriously 
damaged  by  floods ;  and,  from  an  estimated  cost  of 
£330,000,  the  capital  expenditure  advanced  to  a  sum 
of  £532,000.  The  railway  was  at  first  worked  by  the 
Glasgow  and  South-Western  Railway  Company  under 
an  experimental  agreement,  and  afterwards  on  stated 
terms.  The  railway,  however,  having  fallen  into 
financial  difficulties,  a  judicial  factor  was  appointed  by 
the  Court  of  Session  in  1881  ;  and  the  line,  which  for  a 
time  was  used  as  a  rapid  through  route  between  Glasgow 
and  Stranraer,  was,  after  being  shut  for  a  brief  period, 
resumed  for  the  accommodation  of  local  traffic.  In 
1882,  under  a  new  act,  powers  were  obtained  to  recon- 
struct the  company  and  to  develop  its  capabilities  as  !i 
through  line.  The  stations  on  the  line  are  Girvan,  Pin- 
more,  Pinwherry,  Barrhill,  Glenwhilly,  and  New  Luce. 

Gizzen  Briggs.     See  Geyzen  Briggs. 

Glack,  a  mansion  in  Daviot  parish,  Aberdeenshire, 
4i  mUes  W  by  N  of  Old  Meldrum.  Erected  in  1875  at 
a  cost  of  £10,000,  it  is  a  Scottish  Baronial  edifice  of 
block  gi-anite,  with  a  tower  80  feet  high ;  its  owner, 
John  Mackenzie,  Esq.  (b.  1795  ;  sue.  1877),  holds  4036 
acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £3825  per  annum.  — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  86,  1876. 

Glack,  a  defUe  and  pass  between  Newtyle  and  Hatton 
hills  in  Newtyle  parish,  Forfarshire,  giving  communi- 
cation between  Strathmore  and  Strathdighty. 

Glackhamis,  a  deep  defUe  in  Aberdour  parish,  BanS^- 
shire,  between  Ben  Rinnes  and  the  Conval  mountains. 
It  has  an  impressive  character  from  at  once  its  great 
length,  its  uniform  bottom  breadth,  and  the  regular 
acclivity  and  vast  height  of  its  mountain  flanks. 

Glackingdaline,  a  small  bay  and  a  ruined  Scandinavian 
castle  in  Ulva  island,  Argyllshire.  The  castle,  crowning 
a  high  steep  rocky  islet,  had  a  causeway  leading  from 
the  rock  to  the  island  at  low  tide,  and  stiU  is  repre- 
sented by  walls  and  rubbish  of  its  own  structure  and 
by  remains  of  the  causeway. 

Gladhouse  Water,  the  name  borne  by  the  principal 
head-stream  of  the  South  EsK  river  in  Temple  parish, 
Edinburghshire. 

Gladney  or  Glaidney,  a  village  in  the  southern  es- 

89 


GLADsmunt 

tremity  of  Cupar  parish,  Fife,  adjacent  to  Ceres.     Pop. 
(1861)  148,  (1871)  229,  (1881)  115. 

Gladsmuir,  a  village  and  a  parish  in  the  W  of  Had- 
dingtonshire. The  village  stands  355  feet  above  sea- 
level,  near  the  eastern  verge  of  the  parish,  2^  miles 
SSE  of  Longniddry  station,  4  "W  by  S  of  Haddington, 
and  3J  E  of  Tranent,  under  which  it  has  a  post  office. 
Crowning  the  ridge  between  Haddington  and  Tranent, 
it  commands  a  superb  panoramic  view  of  the  Lothians, 
the  Firth  of  Forth,  and  the  southern  shore  of  Fife. 

The  parish,  constituted  in  1692  out  of  portions  of 
Haddington,  Tranent,  and  Aberlady,  contains  also  tlie 
villages  of  Longniddry,  Samuelston,  and  Penston.  It 
is  bounded  NW  by  the  Firth  of  Forth,  N  by  Aberlady, 
E  by  Haddington,  S  by  Pencaitland,  and  AV  by  Tranent. 
Its  utmost  length,  from  N  to  S,  is  4J  miles ;  its  utmost 
breadth  is  i  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  7165^  acres,  of  which 
120f  are  foreshore.  A  small  burn,  running  to  the 
Firth,  traces  much  of  the  Aberlady  border ;  another 
traces  for  IJ  mile  the  boundary  with  Tranent ;  two 
others  rise  in  and  traverse  the  interior ;  and  the  river 
Tyne  winds  If  mile  east-north-eastward  along  the  Had- 
dington border.  The  coast-line,  1  mile  long,  is  low  but 
rocky ;  and  from  it  the  surface  rises  gently  to  371  feet 
at  Penston  and  400  at  the  south-western  corner  of  the 
parish,  whilst  sinking  again  south-eastward  to  190  feet 
along  the  Tyne.  So  much  of  the  area  was  in  a  marshy 
condition  as  to  look  almost  like  a  continuous  fen,  but 
now  has  been  so  thoroughly  reclaimed  as  to  be  every- 
where in  a  state  of  high  cultivation.  The  ridgy  tract, 
too,  was  for  ages  an  open  moor,  but  that  likewise  has 
been  well  reclaimed.  The  rocks  belong  chiefly  to  the 
Carboniferous  formation,  but  are  intersected,  from  E  to 
W,  by  a  remarkable  trap  dyke,  which  has  been  largely 
quarried  for  road  metal ;  as  also  for  buUding  has  abundant 
sandstone.  Limestone  and  ironstone  have  been  worked ; 
and  coal  abounds  of  excellent  quality,  occurring  in  some 
places  in  seams  from  4  to  5  feet  thick.  It  seems,  in  the 
vicinity  of  Penston,  to  have  been  mined  for  upwards  of 
five  centuries.  Fireclay  also  is  plentiful.  The  soil  is 
eandy  on  the  immediate  seaboard,  a  fertile  loam  towards 
Longniddry,  clayey  in  the  middle  tract,  and  loamy 
along  the  Tyne.  About  200  acres  are  under  wood; 
nearly  1200  are  in  pasture  ;  and  aU  the  rest  of  the  land 
is  either  regularly  or  occasionally  in  tillage.  The  man- 
sion of  the  Douglases  of  Longniddrj',  who  acted  a  dis- 
tinguished part  in  the  Reformation,  and  invited  John 
Knox  to  their  home  when  he  was  driven  away  from  St 
Andrews,  is  now  reiwesented  by  only  a  low  round  mound. 
A  ruined  chapel,  called  John  Knos's  Kirk  because  the 
great  Reformer  sometimes  preached  in  it,  stands  a  little 
E  of  Longniddi-y  village.  A  church  was  built,  in  1650, 
at  Thrieplaw,  near  the  boundary  with  Pencaitland,  but, 
on  the  constituting  of  the  parish,  fell  into  disuse,  and 
has  utterly  disappeared.  William  Robertson,  D.D. 
(1721-93),  who  became  Principal  of  Edinburgh  Univer- 
sity, was  minister  of  Gladsmuir  from  1743  to  1758,  and 
wrote  here  the  greater  part  of  his  History  of  Scotland  ; 
and  George  Heriot  (1563-1624),  the  founder  of  the 
hospital  that  bears  his  name  in  Edinburgh,  was  the  son 
of  a  native  of  Gladsmuir,  and  himself  has  been  claimed 
as  a  native.  Under  Prestonpans  is  noticed  the  battle, 
sometimes  called  of  Gladsmuir.  Elvingston  is  the 
chief  mansion  ;  and  7  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual 
value  of  £500  and  upwards,  3  of  between  £100  and  £500, 
and  2  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Gladsmuu'  is  in  the  presby- 
tery of  Haddington  and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweed- 
dale  ;  the  living  is  worth  £514.  The  parish  church,  at 
the  village,  is  a  handsome  edifice  of  1850,  successor  to 
one  of  1695,  and  contains  750  sittings.  Four  schools — 
Gladsmuir,  Gladsmuir  Iron-works,  Longniddry,  and 
Samuelston — with  respective  accommodation  for  113, 
124,  144,  and  65  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attend- 
ance of  62,  86,  73,  and  26,  and  grants  of  £39,  19s.,  £65, 
15s.,  £54,  10s.,  and  £30,  13s.  Valuation  (1879) 
£18,648,  6s.,  (1883)  £16,250,  18s.  Pop.  (1801)  1460, 
(1831)  1658,  (1861)  1915,  (1871)  1863,  (1881)  1747— a 
decrease  due  to  the  stoppage  of  ironstone  smelting. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  ah.  33,  1863. 
SO 


GLAMIS 

Glaidney.    See  Gladney. 

Glaissean  or  Glashan,  a  lake  in  Kilmichael-Glassary 
parish,  Argyllshire.  Lying  340  feet  above  sea-level,  it 
has  an  utmost  length  and  breadth  of  IJ  and  J  mUe, 
abounds  in  smallish  trout,  lies  on  moorland,  and  sends 
off  a  stream  IJ  mUe  south-south-eastward  to  Loch  Awe 
at  Lochgair.— Os-rf.  Sitr.,  sh.  37,  1876. 

Glaitness.     See  Kirkwall. 

Glamaig  or  Ben  Glamaig,  a  conical  mountain  (2670 
feet)  in  Portree  parish.  Isle  of  Skye,  Inverness-shire,  on 
the  S  side  of  Loch  Shgachan,  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  Cuchullin  Mountains.  It  has  round 
bronze-hued  shoulders  ;  its  sides  are  channelled  by  innu- 
merable water-courses ;  great  heaps  of  shingle  lie  scat- 
tered around  its  base  ;  and  its  summit  is  washed  bare  of 
soil  and  vegetation. 

Glamis,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  SW  Forfarshire. 
The  village  stands,  300  feet  above  sea-level,  on  the  left 
bank  of  Glamis  Burn,  11  miles  N  of  Dundee,  and  1^  mile 
SSE  of  Glamis  station  on  the  Scottish  Midland  section 
of  the  Caledonian,  this  station  being  5J  miles  WSW  of 
Forfar  and  27  NE  of  Perth.  It  serves  as  a  small  centre 
of  traffic  for  a  tract  of  country  around  it,  and  has  a  post 
and  railway  telegraph  office,  a  branch  of  the  Royal  Bank, 
2  insurance  agencies,  an  hotel,  a  police  station,  a  neat 
masonic  hall,  a  library,  and  fairs  on  the  first  Wednesday 
of  April  and  May,  the  Wednesdays  after  26  May  and 
22  November,  and  the  ATednesday  of  October  before 
Kirriemuir.     Pop.  (1861)  382,  (1871)  375,  (1881)  345. 

The  parish  contains  also  the  villages  or  hamlets  of 
Charleston,  Newton,  Milton,  Thornton,  Grasshouses, 
and  Arniefoul.  It  is  bounded  N  by  Kirriemuir,  NE 
by  Forfar,  E  by  Kinnettles,  a  fragment  of  Caputh,  and 
Inverarity,  SE  by  Tealing,  SW  by  Auchterhouse  and 
Newtyle,  W  by  Eassie  and  Nevay,  and  NW  by  Airlie. 
Its  utmost  length,  from  N  to  S,  is  Q%  miles  ;  its  breadth 
varies  between  2  and  5J  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  14,483J 
acres,  of  which  136J  are  water.  From  the  Loch  of 
FoEFAE  (9x2  furl.;  171  feet)  in  the  NE  corner  of 
the  parish.  Dean  Water  flows  5  J  miles  west-south-west- 
ward, chiefly  through  the  northern  interior,  but  2  miles 
along  the  Kinnettles  border,  which  also  is  traced  for  2J 
miles  north-westward  by  Arity  or  Kerbit  Water,  from 
just  above  Douglastown  to  its  mouth.  Glamis  Burn, 
another  of  Dean  Water's  afBuents,  rises  close  to  the 
southern  border  at  910  feet  above  sea-level,  and  thence 
winds  6g  miles  north-by-eastward  through  the  interior 
along  Glen  OgUvie  ;  just  above  Glamis  village  it  breaks 
through  a  ridge  of  high  ground,  and  forms  a  fine  cas- 
cade. And  Eassie  Burn  curves  2§  miles  northward 
through  the  south-western  extremity,  then  IJ  mUe 
along  the  boundary  with  Eassie.  (See  Denoon.) 
Sinking  along  Dean  Water  to  160  feet  above  sea-level, 
the  sui'face  thence  rises  east-north-eastward  to  224  feet 
at  Broom  HiU  and  232  near  Drumglay,  southward  to 
664  at  Hunters  Hill,  700  at  West  Cram  Hill,  925  at 
Berry  Hillock,  754  near  Kilmundie,  1115  at  Carlunie 
Hill,  1116  at  Ark  Hill,  1242  at  Gallow  Hill,  and 
1493  at  Craigowl.  The  northern  district,  cut  off 
by  Dean  AVater,  presents  a  gently  undulating  surface, 
and  lies  entirely  within  Strathmore,  to  which  be- 
longs also  the  northern  portion  of  the  central  district. 
The  rest  of  Glamis,  lying  among  the  Sidlaws,  com- 
prises three  parallel  hill-ranges,  that  extend  from 
NNE  to  SSAV,  and  enclose  the  two  hiU-vales  of  Glen 
Ogilvie  and  Denoon.  The  northern  district,  as  forming 
part  of  Strathmore,  is  all  an  unbroken  belt  of  Old  Red 
sandstone  ;  in  the  southern  or  Sidlaw  portion,  the  rocks 
are  mainly  eruptive.  Both  trap  and  sandstone  have 
been  largely  quarried  ;  and  some  veins  of  lead  ore,  in  the 
eastern  vicinity  of  Glamis  village,  were  worked  for  a 
short  time  in  the  latter  part  of  last  century.  Traces  of 
carbonate  of  copper  occur  ia  the  trap  rocks  of  the  hOls  ; 
and  porphyry,  jasper,  and  Lydian  stone  have  been 
found.  The  soil  in  Strathmore  is  generally  a  deep, 
sound,  reddish  loam,  heavier  and  richer  on  the  lower 
slopes  than  in  the  bottom  of  the  valley  ;  on  the  Sidlaws, 
is  chiefly  of  a  moorish  character,  covered  with  heath  or 
swampy.     If  Skene  is  right  in  maintaining  that  King 


GLAMIS  CASTLE 

JIalcolm  was  not  murdered,  the  following  is  a  curi- 
ous instance  of  misapplied  ingenuity.  Before  tlie 
manse  door  stands  a  sculptured  obelisk — '  King  Mal- 
colm's Gravestone  ' — '  erected,  as  is  generally  supposed, 
in  memory  of  the,  murder  of  Malcolm  II.  On  one 
side  of  it  is  an  elaborately  carved  Cross,  and  near 
the  base  are  the  figures  of  two  men,  who,  by  their 
attitude,  seem  to  be  forming  the  bloody  conspiracy. 
A  lion  and  a  centaur,  on  the  upper  part,  repre- 
sent the  barbarity  of  the  crime.  On  the  reverse, 
fishes  of  several  sorts  appear,  a  symbol  of  Loch 
Forfar,  in  which,  by  missing  their  way,  the  as- 
sassins were  drowued.  On  Hunters  Hill  is  another 
small  obelisk  or  stone,  on  which  are  delineated  vari- 
ous symbolical  characters  similar  to  those  of  the 
larger  obelisk,  and  supposed  to  be  intended  as  represen- 
tations of  the  same  facts.  At  a  mile's  distance  from  the 
village  of  Glamis,  near  a  place  called  Gossans,  is  a  third 
obelisk,  vulgarly  styled  St  Orland's  Stone,  still  more 
curious  than  the  others,  and  possibly  akin  to  them  in 
object.  On  one  side  is  a  cross  rudely  flowered  and 
chequered  ;  on  the  other,  four  men  on  horseback  appear 
to  be  pursuing  their  waj'  with  the  utmost  possible  speed, 
while  the  horse  of  one  of  them  is  trampling  under  foot  a 
wild  boar  ;  and  on  the  lower  part  of  the  stone  is  the 
figure  of  an  animal  somewhat  like  a  dragon.  Though 
no  probable  decipherment  has  been  made  of  these  sym- 
bols, they  have  been  conjectured  to  represent  the  oificers 
of  justice  in  pursuit  of  Malcolm's  murderers. '  C4lamis 
Castle  is  the  chief  feature  of  the  parish  ;  and  the  Earl 
of  Strathmore  is  sole  proprietor.  Glamis  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Forfar  and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns  ; 
the  living  is  worth  £350.  The  parish  church,  at  the 
village,  was  built  in  1792,  and  contains  850  sittings. 
Glamis  public,  Glen  Ogilvie  or  Milton  public,  and 
Charleston  subscription'school,  with  respective  accommo- 
dation for  200,  63,  and  98  children,  had  (ISSl)  an 
average  attendance  of  108,  22,  and  84,  and  grants 
of  £100,  13s.,  £15, 12s.,  and  £53,  10s.  Valuation  (1857) 
£11,026  ;  (1882)  £13,934,  15s.,  plus  £2277  for  railway. 
Pop.  (1801)  1931,  (1831)  1999,  (1851)  2152,  (1871) 
1813,  (1881)  1631.— Ord  Sur.,  shs.  66,  57,  48,  1870-68. 
Glamis  Castle,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Strathmore,  in 
Glamis  parish,  SW  Forfarshire,  near  the  left  bank  of  Dean 
AVater,  7  furlongs  N  by  E  of  the  village.  Ascribed  by 
tradition  to  the  10th  or  11th  century,  it  mainly  consists 
in  its  present  form  of  reconstructions  and  additions  of 
the  16th,  17th,  and  18th  centuries,  and  is  a  stately  pile 
in  the  style  of  Chantilly  and  other  great  French  chateaux, 
such  as  the  Chevalier,  who  stayed  here  in  January  1716, 
declared  he  had  not  seen  matched  upon  the  Continent. 
The  central  part  is  a  great  square  tower,  whose  top  is 
gained  by  a  flight  of  143  steps,  and  from  which  project 
three  wings  ;  and  the  whole  exterior  is  profusely  adorned 
with  sculptures,  corbellings,  battlements,  pinnacles, 
pepper-box  tm-rets,  and  the  like.  In  front  stands  a 
curious  old  sun-dial,  presenting  an  extraordinary  num- 
ber of  faces  to  the  sun.  Within,  the  most  interesting 
features  are  the  great  hall,  bearing  date  1621,  and  con- 
taining portraits  of  Charles  II. ,  James  VII. ,  Claverhouse, 
Lauderdale,  etc.  ;  a  quaint  little  Jacobean  chapel,  with 
paintings  by  De  Witt ;  and  '  Sir  AValter  Scott's  Bed- 
room,' of  which,  iu  Demonology  and  WitcJicraft,  Sir 
Walter  writes  : — '  I  was  only  19  or  20  years  old  when  I 
happened  to  pass  a  night  in  this  magnificent  baronial 
castle.  The  hoary  old  pile  contains  much  in  its  appear- 
ance, and  in  the  traditions  connected  with  it,  impressive 
to  the  imagination.  It  was  the  scene  of  the  murder  of 
a  Scottish  king  of  great  antiquity,  not  indeed  the  gra- 
cious Duncan,  with  whom  the  name  naturally  associates 
it,  but  Malcolm  II.*     It  contains  also  a  curious  monu- 

*  'The  later  chronicles,'  says  Skene,  ' state  that  Malcolm  was 
slain  by  treachery  at  Glamis,— and  Fordun  adds  by  some  of  the 
stock  of  Constantin  and  Grym  ;  but  this  tale  is  quite  inconsistent 
\v1th  the  early  notices  of  his  death,  which  clearly  imply  that  he 
died  a  natural  death.  Thus  the  contemporary  chronicler,  Marianus 
Scotus,  writes  simply:  "1034  Malcolm,  king  of  Scotia,  died  25 
November.'"  In  the  secret  chamber  that  follows,  according  to 
olden  tradition.  Earl  Beardie,  of  the  Crawford  Une,  still  drees  his 
weird — to  play  at  cards  until  the  day  of  doom. 


GLASBHEINU 

ment  of  the  peril  of  feudal  times,  being  a  secret  chamber, 
the  entrance  of  which,  by  the  law  or  custom  of  the 
family,  must  only  be  known  to  three  persons  at  once 
viz.,  the  Earl  of  Strathmore,  his  heir-apparent,  and  any 
third  person  whom  they  may  take  into  their  confidence. 
The  extreme  antiquity  of  the  building  is  vouched  by 
the  immense  thickness  of  the  walls  and  the  wild  and 
straggling  arrangement  of  the  accommodation  within 
doors.  I  was  conducted  to  my  apartment  in  a  distant 
corner  of  the  building  ;  and  I  must  own  that,  as  I  heard 
door  after  door  shut,  after  my  conductor  had  retired,  I 
began  to  consider  myself  too  far  from  the  living,  and 
somewhat  too  near  the  dead.  AVe  had  passed  through 
what  is  called  the  "  King's  Room,"  a  vaulted  apartment 
garnished  with  stags'  antlers  and  similar  trophies  of  the 
chase,  and  said  by  tradition  to  be  the  spot  of  Malcolm's 
murder,  and  I  had  an  idea  of  the  vicinity  of  the  castle 
chapel.  In  spite  of  the  truth  of  history,  the  whole 
night  scene  in  Macbeth 's  castle  rushed  at  once  upon  my 
mind,  and  struck  my  imagination  moi'e  forcibly  than 
even  when  I  have  seen  its  terrors  represented  by  the 
late  John  Kemble  and  his  inimitable  sister.'  The 
thanage  of  Glamis  possesses  a  fictitious  interest  from  its 
imaginary  connection  with  Macbeth  ;  in  history  we  do 
not  hear  of  it  till  1264  (Skene's  Celtic  Scotland,  iii.  266, 
1880).  It  seems  to  have  been  held  by  the  Crown  from 
the  War  of  Independence  till  1372,  when  Robert  II. 
erected  it  into  a  barony,  and  granted  it  to  John  Lyon, 
whose  grandson  Sir  Patrick  was  created  a  peer  by  the 
title  of  Lord  Glamis  in  1445.  John,  sixth  Lord,  who 
died  iu  1528,  had  wedded  Janet  Douglas,  a  sister  of  the 
banished  Earl  of  Angus  ;  and  she,  in  1537,  was  burned  on 
the  Castlehill  of  Edinburgh  on  a  trumped-up  charge  of 
conspiring  the  destruction  of  James  V.  by  poison.  Her 
son,  the  young  seventh  Lord,  was  involved  in  the  charge, 
and  did  not  recover  title  and  estates  till  1543.  John, 
eighth  Lord,  chancellor  of  Scotland,  was  shot  at  Stirling 
in  a  chance  fray  between  his  followers  and  the  Earl  of 
Crawford's  (1578) ;  his  brother,  the  Master  of  Glamis, 
was  a  chief  conspirator  in  the  Raid  of  Ruthven  (1582). 
Patrick,  ninth  Lord,  was  created  Earl  of  Kinghorne  in 
1606 ;  and  in  1677  Patrick,  third  Earl,  obtained  a 
charter  providing  that  himself  and  his  heirs  should  in 
all  future  ages  be  styled  Earls  of  Strathmore  and  King- 
horne, Viscounts  Lyon,  Barons  Glamis,  etc.  This 
Patrick  retired  from  public  life  at  the  Revolution  (1688), 
and  'spent,'  one  is  told,  'the  last  six  years  of  his  life 
in  improving  his  estates  and  in  repairing  and  modern- 
ising his  castle  of  Glamis  under  the  direction  of  the 
celebrated  Inigo  Jones,'  who  died,  however,  in  1652. 
John,  fourth  Earl,  was  father  of  'four  pretty  boys,' 
who  all  in  turn  succeeded  to  the  earldom — John,  killed 
at  Sheriffmuir,  1715 ;  Charles,  killed  in  a  brawl  at 
Forfar,  1728 ;  James,  died  1735 ;  and  Thomas,  died 
1753.  John,  ninth  Earl  (1737-76),  married  Mary 
Eleanor  Bowes,  heu-ess  of  £1,040,000  ;  and  the  present 
and  thirteenth  Earl,  Claude  Bowes  Lyon  (b.  1824  ;  sue. 
1865),  is  their  grandson.  He  is  twenty-first  Lord 
Glamis,  hut  thirteenth  only  in  descent  from  Patrick, 
first  holder  of  that  title.  The  Glamis  estate— 22,850 
acres,  of  £25,000  annual  value — comprises  16,850  acres 
of  arable  land,  4000  of  natural  pasture,  and  2000  under 
wood.  Since  1860,  at  an  outlay  of  over  £43,000,  it  has 
undergone  great  improvements  in  the  way  of  building, 
draining,  fencing,  reclaiming,  and  road-making.  Lord 
Strathmore's  Clydesdale  stud,  dating  from  1869,  may 
also  be  noticed.  See  Andrew  Jervise's  Glamis,  its  His- 
tory and  Antiquities  (Edinb.  1861);  James  0.  Guthrie's 
Vale  of  Strathmore  (Edinb.  1875);  and  pp.  91-94  of 
Trans.  Highl.  and  Ag.  Soc.  (1881). 

Glanasnar,  a  pastoral  islet  of  Southend  parish,  Argyll- 
shire, adjacent  to  the  NE  side  of  Sanda  island. 

Glanderston,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion  of  1697,  a 
farmhouse  now,  in  Neilston  parish,  Renfrewshire,  2 
miles  S  of  Barrhead.  It  was  given  in  1507  by  the 
first  Earl  of  Lennox  to  his  brother  John  Stewart,  and, 
going  by  marriage  to  Mm-e  of  Caldwell,  afterwards 
passed  to  other  proprietors. 

Glasbheimi,     See  Glasven. 

81 


OLASCLUNE 

Glasclune,  an  ancient  baronial  fortalice  on  the  E 
border  of  Kinloch  parisli,  Perthshire,  crowning  the  steep 
bank  of  a  ravine  at  the  boundary  -sv-ith  Blairgowrie 
parish.  The  stronghold  of  the  powerful  family  of  Blair, 
it  was  once  a  place  of  considerable  strength,  both 
natural  and  artiticial,  and  is  now  represented  by  some- 
what imposing  ruins. 

Glasford.     See  Glassfoed. 

Glasgow,  the  commercial  and  manufacturing  capital 
of  Scotland,  and,  in  point  of  wealth,  population,  and 
importance,  the  second  city  of  the  British  islands,  is 
situated  for  the  most  part  in  the  lower  ward  of  Lanark- 
shire, but  a  small  part  of  it  is  in  the  county  of  Renfrew. 
It  stands  on  both  banks  of  the  river  Clyde,  14  miles 
from  its  mouth  at  Dumbarton ;  but  the  larger  portion 
of  the  city  is  on  the  N  side  of  the  river ;  latitude 
55°  51'  32"  N",  and  longitude  4°  17'  54"  W.  Its  distance 
as  the  crow  flies  from  John  o'  Groat's  House  is  197  miles, 
and  from  London  348.  It  is  N"W  by  N  of  London  and 
Carlisle,  SW  of  Aberdeen,  Perth,  and  Stirling,  SW  by 
W  of  Dundee,  W  by  S  of  Edinburgh,  and  N  by  W  of 
Dumfries.  By  road  it  is  42f  miles  from  Edinburgh,  23 
from  Greenock,  34  from  Ayr,  79  from  Dumfries,  and  396 
from  London  ;  while  by  railway  its  distance  is  7  miles 
from  Paisley,  21  from  Falkirk,  23  from  Greenock,  29 
from  Stirling,  33f  from  Kilmarnock,  40J  from  Ayr,  47J 
from  Edinburgh,  63J  from  Perth,  104J  from  Berwick- 
on-Tweed,  105  from  Carlisle,  152  from  Aberdeen,  206J 
from  Inverness,  401J  from  London  by  the  West  Coast 
route,  423  by  the  Midland,  and  448J  by  the  East  Coast 
route. 

Site.  — At  no  very  remote  time  in  the  geological  his- 
tory of  the  country,  but  long  before  the  historic  period, 
the  lower  part  of  the  valley  of  the  Clyde  formed  the 
bottom  of  an  estuary.  This  estuary  opened  to  the  sea 
by  a  narrow  strait  near  Erskine,  and  embraced  Loch 
Lomond  and  the  valleys  about  on  the  one  hand,  while 
on  the  other  it  extended  as  far  as  John,  tone  and  Paisley. 
Narrowing  at  Ibrox  and  PoUokshields,  it  again  widened 
out,  and,  sweeping  round  by  the  Cathkin  and  Cathcart 
Hills,  formed  a  wide  bay  where  Glasgow  Green  and 
Bridgeton  now  are.  The  mouth  of  the  river  was  then 
probably  about  Bothwell  or  Entherglen.  That  the 
estuary  was  marine  the  list  of  shells  found  in  the  de- 
posits in  the  valley  abundantly  proves.  That  the  levels 
of  the  land  were  much  the  same  as  at  present  during  the 
Roman  occupation  is  shown  by  the  termination  of  the 
Roman  Wall ;  but  that  prior  to  this,  and  yet  subsequent 
to  the  first  appearance  of  man  in  Clydesdale,  there  must 
have  been  an  upheaval  of  the  land  is  shown  by  relics 
dug  up  on  the  present  site  of  Glasgow.  Among  other 
remains  a  number  of  canoes  have  been  found,  some  of 
them  300  feet  distant  from  the  modern  bed  of  the  river 
and  19  feet  below  the  present  surface.  In  the  eighty 
years  prior  to  1855,  no  less  than  seventeen  canoes  were 
dug  out  of  the  silt — one  in  1780  in  digging  the  founda- 
tions of  St  Enoch's  church,  and  another  later  near  the 
Cross.  In  1824  one  was  found  at  Stockwell  Street,  and 
another  in  the  Drygate  behind  the  new  prison.  Twelve 
were  found  on  the  lands  of  Springfield,  on  the  S  side, 
and  two  at  Clydehaugh  in  1852.  Of  all  these,  one  was 
in  a  vertical  position,  with  the  prow  up,  as  if  it  had 
sunk  in  a  storm  ;  while  another  was  bottom  up,  as  if  it 
had  been  capsized.  Since  1855  other  three  at  least  have 
been  found.  All  this  points  to  a  considerable  rise  within 
the  human  period,  and  accounts  for  the  traces  of  ancient 
terraces  that  are  to  be  seen  along  some  portions  of  the 
higher  grounds,  as  well  as  for  the  nature  of  the  site  of 
the  lower  part  of  the  city,  which,  especially  towards 
the  E  and  S,  is  very  flat,  as  it  also  is  on  the  N  along 
the  side  of  the  river.  Nowhere  in  these  districts  is  it 
more  than  a  few  feet  above  the  level  of  spring  tides. 
The  gi'ound  on  the  N  side  of  the  river  beyond  the  flat 
strip  and  to  the  W  is  variable  and  undulating,  there 
being  a  number  of  elliptical  ridges  mostly  with  their 
longer  axes  parallel  to  the  course  of  the  river,  but  in 
the  W  trending  somewhat  more  in  a  N  and  S  direction. 
They  rise  with  considerable  rapidity  to  heights  of  from 
100  to  250  feet,  the  principal  being  Blythswood  Hill 
&2 


GLASGOW 

(135),  Woodlands  Hill  (153),  Hillhead  (157),  Garnet 
Hill  (176),  the  Observatory  site  (179),  the  Necropolis 
(225),  and  Garngad  Hill  (252).  The  city  is  intersected 
and  divided  into  two  unequal  portions  by  the  river  Clyde, 
which  has  within  it  a  course  of  about  6  miles,  following 
the  windings  from  the  E  at  Dalmarnock  Bridge  to  a 
point  on  the  W  nearly  opposite  Govan.  The  Molen- 
dinar  Burn  swept  round  the  NE,  passed  between  the 
Cathedral  and  the  Necropolis  in  a  deep  ravine,  and 
afterwards  crossed  the  low  ground  to  the  Clyde  ;  but  it 
has  now  become  a  dirty  underground  sewer,  though  the 
ravine  still  partially  remains.  The  river  Kelvin  ap- 
proaches from  the  NW  through  a  picturesque  and  well- 
wooded  dell,  skirts  the  base  of  the  height  on  which  the 
Botanic  Gardens  are  laid  out,  and,  sweeping  to  the 
southward,  forms  the  boundary  between  Hillhead  and 
Glasgow.  In  its  onward  course  it  passes  through  the 
West  End  or  Kelvingrove  Park,  between  the  high 
grounds  to  the  E  of  the  Park  and  Gilmore  Hill  on  the 
W,  and  then,  bending  to  the  SW,  enters  the  Clyde 
opposite  Govan  at  Govan  ferry.  Glasgow  has  about  its 
site  none  of  the  picturesque  featm'es  that  give  such 
beauty  and  well-marked  character  to  Edinburgh.  The 
features  of  the  views  within  all  the  low  parts  of  the 
city,  and  even  in  the  suburbs,  are  mainly  architectural, 
and  always  distinctly  modified  by  the  smoke  and  turmoil 
of  a  great  seat  of  commerce  and  manufacture.  From  a 
few  of  the  higher  spots — particularly  from  Sighthill 
Cemetery,  Garngad  Hill,  the  Necropolis,  Blythswood 
Hill,  Garnet  Hdl,  the  upper  part  of  Kelvingrove  Park, 
and  Gilmore  Hill  in  front  of  the  new  University  build- 
ings— there  are,  however,  in  clear  states  of  the  atmo- 
sphere, views  of  considerable  picturesqueness,  the  fore- 
ground of  the  city,  with  its  streets  and  buildings  and 
bustle,  being  backed  by  glimpses  of  the  country  and 
shut  in  by  distant  hills. 

Extent. — The  exact  extent  of  Glasgow  is  somewhat 
difiicult  to  define,  as  the  districts  to  be  embraced  by  the 
name  are  variously  understood.  The  compact  central 
portion  of  it  measures  about  2\  miles  by  1^  ;  the  area 
covered  by  buildings,  but  exclusive  of  detached  parts 
and  straggling  outskirts,  measures  about  4  miles  from 
E  to  W  aud  about  2  from  N  to  S.  The  area  compre- 
hended in  the  returns  of  population  includes,  besides  the 
separate  burghs  of  Hillhead,  Partick,  Maryhill,  Govan, 
Crosshill,  Kinning  Park,  Govanhill,  and  PoUokshields, 
the  detached  suburbs  of  Strathbungo,  Crossmyloof, 
Langside,  ToUcross,  Shettleston,  and  Ibrox,  and  com- 
prises 21,336J  acres,  of  which  1209^  acres  are  in  Ren- 
frewshire. It  measures  about  9J  miles  from  E  to  W, 
and  about  5J  from  N  to  S.  The  royal  burgh  lies 
all  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Clyde,  and  comprises  9S8J 
acres.  The  old  royalty  also  lies  all  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  river,  and  includes  the  royal  burgh  as  well  as 
very  considerable  suburbs  and  some  tracts  of  open 
country ;  it  comprises  2336J  acres.  Prior  to  1872  the 
municipal  and  parliamentary  burgh  excluded  much  of 
the  old  royalty,  but  included  tracts  beyond  it  both  N 
and  S  of  the  Clyde,  and  comprised  5034^  acres.  By  an 
act  of  parliament  passed  in  1872  the  boundaries  were 
largely  extended  to  the  N  and  W.  Of  the  sixteen 
wards  into  which  the  city  is  divided,  the  thu-d,  fifth, 
tenth,  and  eleventh  were  considerably  affected.  The 
third  ward  is  now  bounded  on  the  N  and  E  by  the  old 
royalty  line,  and  on  the  W  by  Springburn  Road.  It 
takes  in  the  St  RoUox  malleable  iron  works,  the  Cale- 
donian Railway  Company's  engineering  works,  the 
Sighthill  railway  station,  and  the  new  Alexandra  Park, 
together  with  intermediate  places.  The  fifth  ward  is 
now  bounded  on  the  N  by  the  old  royalty  line,  on  the 
E  by  Craighall  Road,  and  on  the  W  by  Springburn 
Road.  It  includes  a  considerable  part  of  the  large  de- 
tached suburb  of  Springburn,  Sighthill  Cemetery,  Cow- 
lairs  railway  station,  and  Keppoch  Hill  hamlet,  together 
with  intervening  places.  The  tenth  ward  now  includes 
the  district  extending  from  the  Forth  and  Clyde  Canal 
to  the  royalty  boundary,  and  from  Craighall  Road  to 
Keppoch  Row.  The  eleventh  ward  now  includes  a 
portion  of  Kelvingrove  Park  formerly  outside  the  muni- 


GLASGOW 

cipal  burgh,  and,  crossing  the  Kelvin,  takes  in  the 
lands  of  Gilmoro  Hill  with  the  new  University  buildings. 
Starting  from  a  point  on  the  Monkland  Canal  at  the 
NE  corner  of  Alexandra  Park,  the  parliamentary  and 
municipal  boundary  line  skirts  the  E  side  of  the  park 
till  near  the  SE  corner,  and  then  turns  in  a  straight 
line  SE  for  more  than  a  mile  to  a  point  near  Shettleston 
Sheddings,  E  of  Parkhead.  From  this  it  turns  SW,  and 
runs  in  a  straight  line  for  a  mile  to  the  river  Clyde  at  the 
W  corner  of  the  corporation  reservoirs,  from  which  it 
proceeds  down  the  middle  of  the  river  to^the  mouth  of  the 
Malls  Mire  Burn,  on  the  S  side  of  the  river,  opposite 
the  middle  of  the  S  end  of  Glasgow  Green.  There  it 
turns  up  the  burn  for  about  1000  yards  till  it  reaches 
the  boundary  line  between  the  counties  of  Lanark  and 
Renfrew,  near  Eastfield.  It  follows  this  boundary  to  a 
point  Ij'ing  to  the  S  of  the  S  corner  of  the  Southern 
Necropolis,  and  then  passes  straight  W  to  the  E  end  of 
Butterbiggins  Road,  and  then  along  this  road  in  a  line 
W  by  S,  and,  still  keeping  in  a  straight  line,  crosses 
Victoria  Road  and  on  to  the  county  boundary,  whore  it 
passes  into  Renfrewshire  near  Eglinton  Saw-mills.  Here 
it  turns  to  the  NW,  and  runs  in  a  straight  line  to 
Shields  Road  near  the  Shields  Road  station,  from  which 
it  strikes  NW  by  N  in  a  straight  line  to  a  point  in  the 
river  Clyde  opposite  Finnieston  Quay.  Passing  down 
the  Clyde  to  the  mouth  of  the  Kelvin  it  turns  up  the 
latter  stream  to  the  Dumbarton  Road,  the  line  of  which 
it  follows  for  a  short  distance  W,  till  it  turns  northward 
along  the  AV  side  of  the  Western  Infirmary  grounds  as 
far  as  University  Avenue.  Turning  eastward  along  this 
street,  it  proceeds  in  a  straight  line  past  the  S  end  of 
Anderston  Free  chm-ch  to  the  river  Kelvin,  and  again 
follows  the  course  of  that  stream  to  a  point  directly  N 
of  Glasgow  Academy,  whence  it  passes  in  a  straight  line 
NE,  till  it  reaches  the  Glasgow  branch  of  the  Forth  and 
Clyde  Canal  at  Firhill  Saw-mills.  From  this  the  centre 
of  the  canal  is  the  line  of  boundary  to  near  Napiershall, 
whence  the  line  passes  eastward  somewhat  irregularly 
to  Cowlairs.  There  it  passes  through  the  North  British 
engine  works  northward  to  the  E  end  of  Hawthorn 
Street,  and  then  curves  along  through  Springburn,  past 
the  gateway  of  the  Barony  Poorhouse,  and  on  to  a  point 
on  the  Monkland  Canal  E  of  Blochairn  steel-works, 
whence  it  proceeds  along  the  N  side  of  the  Alexandra 
Park  to  the  point  first  mentioned.  Its  total  length  is 
about  17  miles ;  while  the  length  of  the  municipal 
burgh,  from  Hawthorn  Street  on  the  N  to  Butter- 
biggins Road  on  the  S,  is  in  a  straight  line  about  3J 
miles  ;  and  from  Shettleston  Sheddings  on  the  E  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Kelvin  on  the  W  about  5  miles.  There 
are  nearly  900  streets  within  the  boundary  line,  the 
total  length  of  which  must  exceed  100  miles.  Very 
little  of  the  area  within  the  municipality  is  now  unbuilt 
on,  and  so  much  is  the  city  hemmed  in  by  its  suburban 
neighbours,  that  extension  of  tlie  boundary  is  well  nigh 
impossible  except  by  annexing  the  surrounding  burghs, 
a  proceeding  to  which  the  latter  always  show  strong 
aversion.  The  mother  city  made  a  vigorous  attempt  in 
the 'No  Man's  Land'  bill  in  1875  to  begin  this  swal- 
lowing-up  process  ;  but  the  successful  resistance  then 
made  by  Crossbill  will  probably  prevent,  for  a  long  time 
to  come,  any  effort  to  renew  the  trial. 

Appearance. — A  str-anger  entering  Glasgow  by  any 
of  the  ordinary  routes  is  not  likely  to  be  favourably  im- 
pressed by  it.  By  the  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow  branch 
of  the  North  British  system  and  by  the  northern  branch 
of  the  Caledonian,  he  enters  through  dark  and  smoky 
tunnels.  By  the  Bathgate  branch  of  the  North  British, 
he  enters  through  dingy  suburbs  and  streets  of  a 
decidedly  unpleasant  aspect ;  while,  by  the  southern 
branch  of  the  Caledonian,  the  approach  lies  through 
murky  mineral  fields,  amid  the  blaze  of  iron-works.  By 
the  Glasgow  and  South-Western  line,  he  approaches 
amid  houses  of  an  inferior  description.  If  the  visitor 
come  by  road — excepting  the  approach  by  the  Great 
Western  Road  through  Hillhead — it  is  much  the  same ; 
while,  if  he  come  by  the  river,  long  ere  reaching  the 
city  he  has  left  the  beauties  of  the  Clyde  behind,  and 


GLASGOW 

finds  himself  moving  slowly  along  a  river  which  is  not 
at  all  pure  or  sweet,  amid  a  motley  array  of  shipbuild- 
ing yards  and  engineering  establishments  resounding 
to  the  rattling  of  many  hammers.  No  sooner,  however, 
does  he  reach  the  centre  of  the  city  than  he  finds  a  vast 
difference  in  the  character  of  the  streets  and  in  the  sur- 
roundings, and  sees  on  every  hand  buildings  displaying 
both  beauty  and  taste.  Few  exterior  views  of  the  city 
or  of  parts  of  it  are  interesting  ;  and  from  the  fact  that 
no  exterior  view  of  it  as  a  whole  can  be  got,  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  carry  away  from  Glasgow  any  general  impression. 
The  best  of  the  e.xterior  views  is  from  the  Cathkin  Hills, 
and  they  are  too  far  off  (3  miles)  to  allow  of  a  distinct 
idea. 

Lines  of  Street  and  Districts.  — The  city  had  its  origin 
on  the  high  ground  adjoining  the  western  side  of  the 
Molendinar  Burn  ravine,  nearly  a  mile  N  of  the  Clyde  ; 
and  as  any  extension  immediately  eastward  was  imprac- 
ticable in  consequence  of  the  opposite  side  of  the  ravine 
being  flanked  by  steep  rising  ground,  the  earliest  en- 
largements took  place  over  rapid  slopes  to  the  SE  and 
SW  to  the  flat  ground  towards  the  bank  of  the  river. 
From  this  the  extensions,  which,  tUl  the  latter  part  of 
last  century,  constituted  the  main  bulk  of  the  city, 
passed  southward  to  an  ancient  bridge  across  the  Clyde 
on  the  site  of  the  present  Victoria  Bridge.  The  central 
line  of  thoroughfare  through  these  extensions  was  the 
Bell  o'  the  Brae  (High  Street  NE  of  its  intersection  with 
George  Street),  leading  to  the  flat  ground,  and  then 
continuously  High  Street,  Saltmarket,  and  Bridgegate 
to  the  bridge.  This  was  intersected  at  the  S  end  of 
High  Street  at  the  Cross  by  a  transverse  line  of  streets 
running  E  and  W,  Gallowgate  striking  off  to  the  E  and 
Trongate  to  the  W.  The  principal  extensions  of  the 
latter  part  of  last  century  and  the  early  part  of  the 
present  century  went  westward,  along  the  plain  over  all 
the  space  between  the  high  ground  and  the  river,  the 
main  thoroughfares  being  George  Street,  along  the  base 
of  the  high  ground  ;  Argyle  Street,  a  continuation  of 
the  Trongate  westward  ;  and  a  number  of  transverse 
streets  running  in  a  direction  nearly  parallel  to  High 
Street  and  Saltmarket.  Other  extensions  of  contem- 
porary date  went  eastward  along  the  sides  of  the  Gallow- 
gate, and  thence  spread  still  farther  to  the  E  and  SE, 
forming  suburbs ;  while  a  small  suburb  of  ancient  date, 
at  the  S  end  of  the  bridge  across  the  Clyde,  spread 
rapidly  E  and  S  and  W.  The  more  recent  extensions 
which  have  taken  place  to  the  N  and  NE,  very  largely 
to  the  S,  and  most  of  all  to  the  W,  have  been  very  wide, 
so  much  so  indeed  that  they  have  not  only  taken  in 
outlying  suburbs  of  some  antiquity,  but  have  also 
created  new  ones  of  considerable  size ;  while  the  Unes  of 
streets  exhibit  an  amount  of  imposing  architecture  in 
public  buildings,  works,  warehouses,  and  private  houses 
of  much  greater  account  than  that  of  all  the  previous 
portions  of  the  city.  The  westward  extension  on  the 
N  bank  of  the  river  reaches  from  about  the  line  of  Hope 
Street  to  a  line  fully  a  mile  W  of  the  Kelvin,  and 
measures  more  than  2  miles  in  length  by  a  mile  in  mean 
breadth.  This  is  the  finest  of  all  the  extensions,  and, 
consisting  mainly  of  elegant  private  residences,  with 
places  of  business  and  public  buildings  interspersed, 
constitutes  on  the  whole  a  West  End  somewhat  similar 
to  the  West  End  of  London.  Some  parts  of  it  are  stiU 
of  a  somewhat  straggling  character,  but  it  is  expected, 
with  good  reason,  to  be  fully  occupied  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  open  ornamental  areas.  This  portion  of  the 
city  has  the  great  advantage  of  including  the  heights  at 
Blythswood  Square  and  Garnet  HiU,  the  high  grounds 
to  the  E  of  Kelvingrove  Park  and  Gilmore  HUl,  with 
the  reaches  of  the  Kelvin  between ;  and  is  comparatively 
free  from  the  smoke  and  turmoil  that  prevail  in  most  of 
the  other  parts  of  the  city.  It  offers  indeed,  along  with 
the  suburban  districts,  so  many  advantages  for  residence 
that  probably  ere  long,  out  of  business  hours,  the  central 
portion  of  Glasgow  will  be  as  little  inhabited  as  the  city 
in  London,  and  the  whole  area  given  over  to  business 
purposes. 

From  the  outline  of  the  growth  of  the  streets  of  Glas- 

93 


GLASGOW 

gow  just  given,  it  will  be  evident  that  the  older  and 
more  irregular  part  of  the  city,  with  the  usual  closes 
and  narrow  and  crooked  streets,  will  lie  to  the  E  of  the 
Cross,  while  the  districts  to  the  W,  N,  and  S  show 
greater  regularity  of  plan,  the  streets  in  most  cases  in- 
tersecting at  right  angles,  though  the  branching  of  some 
of  the  main  roads  causes  in  many  places  minor  deviations 
by  the  formation  of  triangular  and  irregularly  shaped 
blocks.  As  might  be  expected  from  the  course  of  the 
river  Clyde,  the  main  lines  of  thoroughfare  run  in  a 
direction  more  or  less  from  E  to  W,  with  cross  streets 
from  N  to  S  ;  but  this  regularity  is  best  marked  in  the 
districts  on  the  S  side  and  betiveen  Argyle  Street  and 
George  Street  and  Argyle  Street  and  Sauchiehall  Street. 
In  the  south-eastern  suburbs,  extending  for  fully  a 
mile  in  length  and  with  an  average  breadth  of  2J  fur- 
longs, is  the  public  park  of  Glasgow  Green,  all  that  now 
remains  of  the  old  common  ground.  It  is  bounded  on 
the  N  partly  by  mean  dingy  streets,  with  murky  fac- 
tories, and  partly  by  neat  terraces.  The  streets  leading 
westward  are  spacious,  and  for  more  than  J  mile  are  not 
encumbered  by  buildings  on  the  river  bank.  Beyond 
this  they  are  harbour  approaches.  The  areas  at  the 
College  Station  E  of  High  Street,  and  of  George  and  St 
Enoch's  Squares,  break  in  this  district  the  prevailing 
density  of  the  street  masses.  The  great  West  End  dis- 
trict displays  a  fine  assemblage  of  handsome  streets, 
terraces,  and  crescents,  intermixed  with  open  ground 
and  spaces  laid  out  with  shrubs.  The  great  lines  of 
thoroughfare  from  N  to  S  are  by  Springburn  Road, 
Castle  Street,  High  Street,  Saltmarket,  Crown  Street, 
and  Cathcart  Road  in  the  E  ;  and  by  Garscube  or  New 
City  Road,  Cowcaddens,  Renfield  Street,  Union  Street, 
Jamaica  Street,  Glasgow  Bridge,  Bridge  Street,  and 
Eglinton  Street  in  the  centre  and  towarcls  the  W  ;  and 
subsidiary  lines  are  by  Port  Dundas  Road  and  Buchanan 
Street,  and  by  Glassford  Street,  Stockwell  Street,  Victoria 
Bridge,  Main  Street  (Gorbals),  and  Pollokshaws  Road. 
The  main  line  of  thoroughfare  from  E  to  \V  is  by  Great 
Eastern  Road,  Gallowgate,  Trongate,  Argyle  Street, 
Main  Street  (Anderston),  and  Dumbarton  Road.  There 
are  also  subsidiary  lines  along  both  banks  of  the  river, 
and  by  Stirling  Road,  Cathedral  Street,  Bath  Street ;  by 
Parliamentary  Road  and  Sauchiehall  Street ;  and  by  Duke 
Street,  George  Street,  St  Vincent  Place,  Renfield  Street, 
Cowcaddens,  and  Great  Western  Road.  The  great  part 
of  the  streets  on  tlie  S  side  are,  as  will  be  seen  from  the 
historical  section,  much  more  modern  than  the  central 
part  of  the  city.  The  compact  districts  of  the  city  and 
the  continuous  suburbs  on  the  outskirts  have  separate 
names,  and  were  either  originally  separate  villages  or  took 
their  names  from  separate  estates.  On  the  N  are  Cow- 
caddens— which  takes  its  name  from  being  the  part  of  the 
common  land  which  was  set  apart  for  the  feeding  of  the 
town's  cattle — Port  Dundas,  St  RoUox — a  corruption  of 
St  Roche,  who  had  in  the  district  a  chapel  noticed  in  the 
historical  section — and  Dennistoun  ;  on  the  E  Calton — 
an  old  barony — Camlachie,  Mile-End,  and  Bridgeton  ; 
on  the  S  Gorbals  (an  old  barony),  which  has  various  sub- 
divisions. The  lands  were  left  in  1650  by  Sir  George 
Douglas  in  trust  to  the  magistrates,  one-half  for  Hutche- 
son's  Hospital,  one-fourth  for  the  Trades  House,  and 
one-fourth  for  the  city.  The  lands  were  divided  in 
1789,  and  the  part  acquired  by  the  hospital  was  called 
Hutchesontown  ;  what  fell  to  the  Trades  House,  Trade- 
ston.  Lauriston  was  built  on  the  hospital  ground  in  the 
beginning  of  the  present  century,  and  Kingston  about 
the  same  time  on  the  part  belonging  to  the  council.  On 
the  W  are  Blythswoodholm — from  the  ancient  barony 
of  Blythswood ;  Anderston — from  Mr  Anderson,  who 
was  proprietor  of  the  Stobcross  lands  in  1725,  and  laid 
out  the  plan  of  the  original  village  ;  Finnieston — 
named  after  Mr  Finnic,  a  tutor  in  the  family  of  Mr  Orr, 
who  had  bought  the  estate  of  Anderston,  and  who  laid 
out  a  plan  for  a  village  about  1765;  Sandyford,  Kelvin- 
haugh,  and  Woodside.  Anderston,  Finnieston,  Gorbals, 
Hutchesontown,  Tradeston,  and  Kingston  were  quite 
recently  detached  country  villages.  The  suburban  vil- 
lages and  burghs  still  only  connected  with  the  main 
9i 


GLASGOW 

part  of  the  city  by  chains  of  houses  or  by  partly  open 
road,  are,  on  the  NW,  Maryhill  and  Keppoch  Hill ;  on 
the  N,  Springburn ;  on  the  E,  Shettleston,  Eastmuir, 
Hogganfield,  Provanhall,  Tollcross,  Parkhead,  and 
Barrochine  ;  on  the  S,  Crossbill,  Strathbnngo,  and  Pol- 
lokshields ;  on  the  WSW,  Kinning  Park,  Govan,  Govan- 
hill,  and  Whiteinch  ;  and  on  the  W,  Partick  and  Hill- 
head. 

Streets  and  Street  Architecture.  — The  city  is  in  general 
remarkably  well  built.  The  building  material  is  a  fine 
light  coloured  sandstone,  the  masonry  substantial,  and 
the  frontages  in  most  parts  lofty  and  good,  though  there 
is  often  a  tendency  towards  too  profuse  ornamentation 
and  to  a  rather  factory-like  arrangement  of  windows. 
The  older  districts  are  mostly  squalid,  and  have  little  or 
none  of  the  picturesqueness  of  the  older  Scotch  architec- 
ture which  gives  such  a  characteristic  and  quaint  aspect 
to  the  older  portions  of  other  of  the  old  toivns  of  Scot- 
land. Most  of  the  other  districts  are  plain  in  style,  and 
with  nothing  to  distinguish  the  appearance  of  the  houses 
from  that  of  dwellings  in  any  of  the  other  stone-built 
towns  in  Britain,  though  the  newer  districts  show  more 
ornament,  some  of  it  running  to  heaviness  and  in  ques- 
tionable taste.  The  older  districts  about  Drygate,  High 
Street,  Gallowgate,  Bridgeton,  Saltmarket,  Bridgegate, 
Trongate,  the  Wynds,  Gorbals,  and  Calton  have  been 
much  altered  and  improved  between  1866  and  the 
present  time.  The  operations  of  the  City  of  Glasgow 
Union  railway  and  still  more  of  the  City  Improvement 
Trust,  acting  under  an  act  obtained  in  1866,  have 
removed  altogether  or  greatly  altered  and  improved  a 
number  of  narrow  and  dirty  courts,  lanes,  and  streets 
that  were  in  their  old  state  mere  hotbeds  of  disease  and 
crime,  and  defied  alike  the  efl'orts  of  sanitary  inspector 
and  police  to  improve  them.  The  newest  districts  of  all 
are  ambitious  and  showy ;  some  parts  in  very  tasteful 
Italian ;  others  abounding  in  pUlared  porches,  projecting 
or  divided  windows,  balconies,  and  balustrades  ;  while 
the  grand  front  range  on  the  crown  of  the  hill  overlook- 
ing the  West  End  Park  is  in  the  French  style.  A  strong 
fondness  is  shown  for  pillar  decoration  even  up  to  the 
Corinthian  and  composite,  but  the  type  adopted  is  often 
poor.  The  great  number  of  new  buildings  erected  along 
the  principal  streets  since  about  1840  shows  a  desire  for 
variety  of  style  and  profusion  of  ornament  which  some- 
times lead  to  rather  striking  results.  While  edifices  of 
Norman,  Italian,  Flemish,  and  Scottish  styles  stand  side 
by  side  with  one  another  and  with  old  plain  buildings, 
a  strong  lofty  ornate  iron  shell  often  replaces  stonework, 
and  sometimes  efl'orts  are  made  to  replace  the  absence 
of  decoration  by  glaring  efl'ects  in  paint.  These  last 
features  are,  however,  exceptional,  and,  while  no  doubt 
pleasing  to  the  eye  of  many,  they  considerably  mar  the 
general  effect  to  an  eye  of  even  not  very  severe  taste. 
High  Street,  Rotten  Row,  and  Drygate  retain  but  few 
signs  of  their  former  grandeur,  though  the  last  was  once 
filled  with  the  mansions  of  the  aristocracy  of  the  West. 
Alas,  how  are  the  mighty  fallen  !  One  of  the  best  build- 
ings in  it  now  is  a  well-planned  lodging-house  erected  by 
the  City  Improvement  Trust,  and  containing  accommoda- 
tion for  200  persons.  Rotten  Row  (originally  routine  and 
rue,  as  it  was  the  usual  road  of  the  church  dignitaries  to 
the  Cathedral  ?)  used  formerly  to  contain  the  residences 
of  several  of  the  prebendaries  of  the  Cathedral.  The  city 
gas-works  were  removed  from  it  in  1872.  Bell  o'  the 
Brae,  the  upper  part  of  High  Street,  has  been  removed 
by  the  Improvement  Trust,  and  the  slope  of  the  street 
lessened.  The  old  name  was  derived  from  a  bell  placed 
in  a  small  turret  at  its  top,  and  always  tolled  at  funerals. 
Duke's  Place,  adjacent  to  Drygate,  contained  an  ancient 
house  at  one  time  belonging  to  the  Earl  of  Lennox,  and 
afterwards  to  the  Duke  of  Montrose,  where  Darnley's 
illness  took  place,  and  where  Queen  Mary  visited  him. 
It  was  removed  in  1853.  Its  connection  with  the  Duke 
gave  name  to  Duke  Street.  John  Knox  Street,  extending 
across  the  Drygate  to  Argyle  Street,  was  formed  by  the 
City  Improvement  Trust  in  1872.  It  replaced  a  cluster 
of  wretched  houses  called  the  Rookery,  and  is  overlooked 
from  the  brow  of  the  neighbouring  Necropolis  by  Joha 


GLASGOW 


GLASGOW 


Knox's  Sronument.  Ladywell  Street,  in  the  same 
neighbourhood,  contains  a  small  restored  structure  over 
a  well,  anciently  dedicated  to  the  Virgin.  Duke  Street, 
a  continuation  of  George  Street  eastwards  to  the  suburbs, 
has  to  the  N  the  district  of  Dennistoun  with  pleasant 
villas.  It  is  not  entirely  built,  and  contains  the  North 
Prison  and  the  Cattle  Market.  A  road  branching  oft' 
on  the  left  leads  to  the  Alexandra  Park.  George  Street 
is  in  line  with  Duke  Street  to  the  AV.  It  is  a  straight 
well-built  street,  and  contains  the  buildings  of  the 
Andersonian  University.  High  Street  has  been  very 
much  altered  by  the  action  of  the  Improvement  Trust, 
but  still  contains  in  itself  and  the  neighbouring  courts  a 
crowded  population  of  the  lowest  class.  A  number  of 
buildings  densely  populated  and  nearly  opposite  the 
station  have  been  pulled  down,  and  their  site  is  now 
occupied  by  Canon  Street. 

Saltmarket,  extending  about  2  furlongs  S  in  a  line 
with  High  Street  to  the  river  and  to  the  South  Prison  at 
Albert  Bridge,  was  once  the  place  of  residence  of  the  mag- 
nates of  Glasgow — the  Bailie  Nicol  Jarvies  of  their  time, 
and  gave  lodging  to  James,  Duke  of  York  (afterwards 
James  VII. ),  when  he  visited  Glasgow.  It  became  the 
rag  fair  of  the  city,  and,  vdth  some  of  the  streets  leading 
from  it,  was  the  abode  of  people  in  a  condition  of  the 
most  squalid  poverty.  Prior  to  1822  it  contained  some 
old  houses,  but  in  that  year  extensive  reconstruction 
took  place  with  a  viewto  theimprovement  of  the  condition 
of  the  inhabitants.  The  efi'ort  failed,  and  no  improvement 
was  effected  till  the  operations  of  the  Improvement  Trust 
and  the  Union  railway  cut  off  many  of  its  closes,  and 
almost  revolutionised  it.  On  the  E  side  at  the  N  corner 
of  Steel  Street  was  a  house  where  Oliver  Cromwell  lived 
when  he  was  in  Glasgow.  Bridgegate,  leading  westward 
from  the  S  part  of  Saltmarket,  also  was  once  a  place  of 
high  note.  It  contained  the  mansions  of  several  noble 
families,  and  afterwards  the  only  banks  of  the  city,  the 
Merchants'  Hall,  and  the  Assembly  Rooms  where  the 
Duchess  of  Douglas  used  to  lead  off  the  Glasgow  civic 
balls  in  the  last  century.  Here  also  the  Union  railway 
and  the  Improvement  Trust  have  effected  great  improve- 
ments. St  Andrew  Square,  120  yards  E  of  Saltmarket, 
and  connected  with  it  by  St  Andrew  Street,  was  built 
in  the  latter  part  of  last  century  as  an  aristocratic 
quarter,  and  it  shows  a  symmetry  worthy  of  its  impor- 
tance and  pui'pose,  an  appearance  enhanced  by  St 
Andrew's  Church  in  the  centre.  It  soon  fell  into 
disrepute,  and  is  now  hugged  on  every  side  by  squalid 
alleys.  London  Street,  extending  ESE  from  the  head 
of  Saltmarket,  a  straight,  open,  weU-buOt  street,  was 
formed  at  a  comparatively  recent  period.  It  was 
intended  as  a  convenient  outlet  to  the  SE  suburbs 
to  which  it  leads,  partly  by  the  line  of  Great  Hamilton 
Street,  partly  by  Monteith  Row  and  Glasgow  Green. 
The  south-eastern  suburbs  are  Bridgeton,  Barrowfield, 
Jlile-End,  and  Calton.  These  have  mostly  a  dingy 
appearance,  and  contain  a  considerable  number  of  fac- 
tories— cotton,  linen,  jute — and  chemical  and  iron 
works.  They  have  been  improved  by  the  construction 
of  two  spacious  streets  under  the  Improvement  Act. 
Gallowgate,  striking  off  eastwards  from  the  Cross  at  an 
acute  angle  with  London  Street,  leads  to  the  suburb  of 
Camlachie.  It  was  formerly  the  principal  outlet  on  the 
E,  but  now  has  little  to  atti'act  attention  except  here 
and  there  some  dwarfish  old  dwelling  almost  hidden  by 
the  neighbouring  houses.  About  3  furlongs  eastward 
from  the  Cross  stand  the  old  Barrack  buildings,  super- 
seded in  1876  by  new  barracks  near  Maryhill.  Near 
the  Cross  it  was  formerly  verj-  disagreeable  and  even 
offensive,  but  the  widening  and  levelling  of  the  street, 
and  the  demolition  of  a  number  of  unsightly  tenements 
at  the  point  where  it  is  crossed  by  the  Union  railway, 
have  vastly  improved  it,  as  has  also  the  formation  of 
Watson  Street.  Trongate,  the  early  state  of  which  is 
noticed  in  the  historical  section,  was  the  seat  of  all  the 
main  business  of  the  city  so  late  as  the  time  of  the 
tobacco  trade  in  the  latter  part  of  last  century.  It  has 
everywhere  a  width  of  60  feet  or  upwards.  The  build- 
ings are  stately,  though  some  of  them  are  old.     It  con- 


tains the  Cross  Steeple  (the  tower  of  the  old  Tolbooth) 
the  Tontine  buildings,  the  equestrian  statue  of  William 
III.,  the  Tron  Steeple,  and  an  imposing  block  of  build- 
ings (1858)  in  the  Scottish  Baronial  style  which  occupies 
the  site  of  a  house  where  Sir  John  Moore  was  born.  Tron- 
gate and  its  continuation  westward,  Argyle  Street,  are 
the  busiest  thoroughfares  in  Glasgow.  Candleriggs,  at 
right  angles  to  Trongate,  on  the  N,  is  an  old  street  (1722), 
but  it  has  been  thoroughly  modernised.  It  has  on  the 
E  side  the  City  Hall,  and  St  David's  church  is  at  the 
top.  Hutcheson  Street  and  Glassford  Street,  parallel  to 
Candleriggs,  are  handsome  open  streets.  The  former  is 
named  from  Hutcheson's  Hospital,  which  stands  at  its 
top.  It  contains  also  the  County  Buildings  and  the 
City  Chambers.  Glassford  Street  (1792)  is  named  from  a 
distinguished  merchant  of  the  times  of  the  tobacco  trade 
mentioned  by  Smollett  in  his  Suniplirey  Clinker.  On 
the  W  side  is  the  Trades  Hall.  Stockwell  Street,  going 
S  to  Victoria  Bridge,  is  older,  and  was  long  the  SW  verge 
of  the  city. 

Argyle  Street — mentioned  under  the  name  of  West 
Street  (as  leading  from  the  West  Port)  in  the  early  part 
of  the  18th  centurj',  and  under  its  present  name  as  early 
as  1777 — extends  from  Trongate  westward  to  Anderston, 
and  is  as  spacious  and  stately  as  Trongate.  The  centre 
dates  from  the  beginning  of  this  century,  and  the 
western  part  is  subsequent  to  1820.  The  older  part  has 
been  almost  entirely  reconstructed.  It  is  a  very  crowded 
thoroughfare,  and  as  a  seat  of  business  is  scarcely  sur- 
passed by  any  street  in  Europe.  Virginia  Street  (N) 
was  formed  in  1753,  and  was  then  occupied  by  mansion- 
houses.  It  takes  its  name  from  a  house  called  Virginia 
House,  which  belonged  to  a  Virginia  merchant  named 
Buchanan,  and  stood  on  the  site  now  occupied  by  the 
Union  Bank.  Miller  Street  (N)  was  opened  in  1771, 
and  got  its  name  from  the  proprietor  of  the  ground.  It 
was  also  intended  for  mansions,  and  Mr  Buchanan  in 
his  Desultory  Sketches  of  Glasgow  tells  how  when  it  was 
first  laid  out  no  feus  were  taken  off  for  some  time,  as  it 
was  considered  too  far  out  of  town,  a  statement  that 
gives  a  far  better  idea  of  the  increase  in  size  of  Glasgow 
within  the  last  century  than  pages  of  description. 
Dunlop  Street  (S)  had  at  its  head  of  old  the  Buck's 
Head  Hotel,  long  a  place  of  high  city  note.  From  1840 
to  1868  the  Theatre  Royal  was  also  here.  Queen  Street 
(N)  is  on  the  line  of  the  Cow  Loan,  by  which  the  cows 
of  the  inhabitants  (kept  in  a  common  byre  on  the  site 
presently  occupied  by  the  Royal  Exchange)  passed  to 
the  public  pastures  at  Cowcaddens.  It  was  constructed 
in  the  end  of  last  century,  and  is  now  one  of  the  best 
streets  in  the  city.  It  contains  the  Inland  Revenue 
Office,  the  offices  of  the  National  Bank,  the  old  Stock 
Exchange,  and  the  Royal  Exchange.  At  the  N  end 
is  the  station  of  the  North  British  railway.  Buchanan 
Street  (N)  is  parallel  to  Queen  Street.  It  was  opened 
in  1778,  and  took  its  name  from  the  owner  of  the  . 
ground.  At  first  it  was  not  intended  to  connect  it  with 
Argyle  Street,  but  the  plan  was  afterwards  changed. 
The  situation  is  described  in  an  advertisement  as  being 
'rural  and  agreeable.'  Even  so  late  as  1816  it  was  the 
western  street  of  the  city.  It  was  occupied  by  villas, 
and  was  so  quiet  that  grass  grew  abundantly  on  the 
carriageway.  It  is  now  lined  with  fine  shops  and  lofty 
and  elegant  business  tenements.  It  contains  the 
Western  Club,  the  new  Stock  Exchange,  St  George's 
Church,  and  the  original  terminus  of  the  Caledonian 
railway.  The  Argyle  Arcade  passes  E  from  Buchanan 
Street,  and  then,  turning  off  at  right  angles,  enters 
Argyle  Street.  The  block  of  buildings  in  Venetian 
style  at  the  corner  of  Buchanan  Street  and  Argyle 
Street  was  erected  in  1873  at  a  cost  of  £20,000.  St 
Enoch's  Square  (S)  was  originally  an  aristocratic  quarter, 
with  villas,  and  in  the  centre  were  shrubberies.  It  was 
gradually  given  up  to  business,  and  about  1850  the 
open  central  space  was  appropriated  for  a  cab  stand. 
At  the  S  side  is  St  Enoch's  Church.  On  the  E  side  is 
St  Enoch's  railway  station  and  Hotel.  Union  Street 
(N)  is,  though  short,  architecturally  one  of  the  finest 
streets  in  Glasgow,  the  E  side  being  largely  occupied  by 

95 


GLASGOW 

magnifiojnt  and  tasteful  warehouses,  some  in  the  Grecian 
style,  others  with  quasi-Egyptian  features.  Jamaica 
Street  (S)  was  formed  about  1760,  and  was  then  in  the 
country.  Now  it  is  almost  as  Ijusy  as  Argyle  Street, 
and  thronged  with  people  and  machines  passing  and  re- 
passing to  Glasgow  Bridge.  W  of  Union  Street  and 
Jamaica  Street  the  cross  streets  are  uniform  in  character 
and  without  any  special  features.  Anderston,  to  the 
"W  of  Argyle  Street,  was  founded  in  1725,  and  at  first 
occupied  by  weavers.  It  afterwards  became  the  chief  seat 
of  the  marine  steam-engine  establishments,  and  of  other 
manufactures.  It  is  a  crowded  malodorous  sooty  place, 
with  very  inferior  houses. 

Ingram  Street  striking  eastward  from  Queen  Street 
opposite  the  Royal  Exchange,  was  formed  in  1777  on 
the  line  of  the  Back  Cow  Loan.  It  contains  the  British 
Linen  Company's  Bank,  the  Union  Bank,  the  Athenieum, 
Hutcheson's  Hospital,  the  N  frontage  of  the  County 
BuUdings,  and  St  David's  Church.  On  the  E  are  Camp- 
bell's warehouses  completed  in  1S58,  and  exhibiting 
turrets,  dormers,  and  other  features  of  the  Scottish 
Baronial  style.  Between  Ingram  Street  and  George 
Square  is  South  Hanover  Street,  which  contains  a  range 
of  fine  Italian  warehouses  built  for  the  Macdonalds,  a 
great  firm  of  muslin  manufacturers,  but  lost  to  them  in 
the  monetary  crisis  of  1857.  George  Square  (1782)  was 
originally  surrounded  by  aristocratic  private  residences, 
with  a  spacious  garden  in  the  centre.  It  became  in 
course  of  time  the  centre  of  crowded  thoroughfares,  and, 
in  1865,  it  was  stripped  of  its  central  trees,  and  crossed 
by  numerous  paths.  The  whole  space  is  now  open,  and 
there  are  a  number  of  monuments  of  those  whom  the 
city  delights  to  honour.  The  post  office  is  on  the  S 
side  ;  the  Queen  Street  station  of  tlie  North  British 
railway  on  part  of  the  N.  On  the  W  side  are  the 
offices  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland  and  the  new  Merchants' 
Hall,  while  the  E  side,  whicli  is  at  present  occupied  by 
a  range  of  half  ruined  houses,  is  by-and-by  to  be  adorned 
with  the  new  Municipal  Buildings. 

St  Vincent  Place,  which  runs  W  from  the  SW  corner 
of  George  Square,  is  spacious  and  open  with  fine  build- 
ings. It  contains  the  main  front  of  the  Bank  of  Scot- 
land, the  New  Clydesdale  Bank,  and  a  very  handsome 
insurance  office.  St  Vincent  Street,  a  continuation  of 
the  Place  westward,  was  one  of  the  first  of  the  new 
western  streets,  and  outstripping  the  others  passed  over 
Blythswood  Hill  to  Anderston.  It  was  originally  dwell- 
ing-houses, but  the  E  half  is  now  given  up  for  business 
premises.  At  its  highest  point  is  the  St  Vincent  Street 
United  Presbyterian  church.  West  George  Street, 
parallel  to  St  Vincent  Street  to  the  N,  has  the  fine  or- 
namental range  of  Stirling's  warehouses  and  the  Gart- 
sherrie  offices,  erected  about  1860.  At  the  E  end  is  St 
George's  Church.  Regent  Street,  parallel  to  West 
George  Street,  and  a  number  of  the  cross  streets  in  the 
same  quarter,  are  handsome  and  airy  and  occupied  by 
dwelling-houses.  On  the  summit  of  the  high  ground  at 
the  W  end  of  Regent  Street  is  Blythswood  Square,  a 
spacious  opening  surrounded  by  dwelling-houses.  There 
is  a  central  enclosure  of  grass,  and  at  the  SW  corner  is 
St  Jude's  Episcopal  church.  Bath  Street  runs  W  from 
Buchanan  Street.  The  buildings  at  the  E  end  are  de- 
voted to  business,  but  the  rest  of  it  is  occupied  by  dwell- 
ing-houses, a  number  of  hotels,  and  several  churches. 

Sauchiehall  Street,  at  first  parallel  to  Bath  Street  and 
then  turning  WSW  to  the  vicinity  of  Eelvingrove  Park, 
was,  till  1830,  a  quiet  narrow  suburban  thoroughfare 
called  SauchiehaU  Road.  The  eastern  part  is  now  a 
plain  spacious  business  street  with  some  fine  shops. 
The  western  part  comprises  a  fine  series  of  villas,  terraces, 
and  crescents,  with  lawns  and  shrubberies  in  front.  It 
stands  to  Argyle  Street  very  much  in  the  same  relation  as 
Oxford  Street  in  London  does  to  the  Strand.  The 
square  blocks  of  buildings  to  the  S  in  Renfield  Street, 
Nile  Street,  and  West  Regent  Street  are  known  as 
Victoria  Buildings.  The  style  is  an  imposing  combina- 
tion of  the  oW  Scottish  and  Flemish  styles.  The  build- 
mgs  which  are  241  feet  in  length  and  92  in  height,  and 
contain  upwards  of  420  windows,  were  erected  in  1860 


GLASGOW 

by  Archibald  Orr  Ewing,  Esq. ,  and  contain  warehouses, 
shops,  counting-rooms,  and  public  offices.  On  the  S 
side  of  the  street,  near  the  centre  of  the  business  part, 
are  Caledonian  Buildings,  a  picturesque  erection  in  rich 
Italian  style,  and  here  also  stands  the  Institute  of  the 
Fine  Arts  where  are  held  the  Glasgow  Art  Exhibitions. 
It  is  a  building  in  the  Greek  style,  plain  but  dignified. 
At  the  E  end  are  the  Royalty  and  Gaiety  Theatres. 
From  the  N  side  of  SauchiehaU  Street,  opposite  Well- 
ington Street,  there  is  communication  with  Cowcad- 
dens  by  a  series  of  arcades  called  the  Wellington 
Arcade.  They  are  much  the  same  as  the  Argyle 
Arcade,  but  not  quite  in  such  good  style.  Cowcaddens 
was,  as  has  been  already  mentioned,  the  common 
pasture  for  the  cattle  belonging  to  the  citizens.  It  is 
now  a  compactly  buUt  and  densely  populated  district. 
It  contains  the  Theatre  Royal,  the  Grand  Theatre,  and 
the  Free  Church  Normal  School.  N  of  Cowcaddens  on 
an  elevated  ridge  is  Port  Dundas,  where  is  the  har- 
bour of  the  Forth  and  Clyde  and  the  Monkland  Canals. 
The  appearance  of  the  lines  of  boats  amid  lofty  houses 
on  the  crest  of  a  ridge  some  60  feet  above  the  adjacent 
level  is  somewhat  peculiar.  Port  Dundas  is  mainly  a 
place  of  commerce  and  manufacture,  and  has  large 
warehouses  and  granaries.  There  are  here  a  very  large 
distillery  and  grain,  flour,  and  saw  mills.  Garnet  Hill, 
flanking  the  N  side  of  Sauchiehall  Street,  near  the 
centre,  rises  so  steeply  in  some  parts  as  to  be  very  in- 
convenient for  carriages  and  traffic,  but  is  neverthe- 
less covered  with  streets  of  a  genteel  class.  It  com- 
mands views  of  the  city  and  south-western  suburbs 
better  and  more  extensive  than  even  those  from  Blyths- 
wood Square.  The  western  part  of  Sauchiehall  Street 
and  the  districts  round  are  known  collectively  as  the 
Crescents.  The  district  measures  about  5  furlongs  by 
3,  and  contains  numerous  terraces  which  are  well  and 
uniformly  built  with  houses  of  good  style,  mostly  varie- 
ties of  Italian,  set  ofi'  by  the  lawns  and  shrubs.  On 
the  higher  ground  near  Park  Circus,  and  overlooking  the 
whole  district,  rise  the  tower  of  Park  church  and  the 
campanile  of  the  Free  Church  College.  Sandyford 
lying  beyond,  and  occupying  the  district  between  the 
Clyde  and  the  Kelvin,  has  a  number  of  genteel  streets. 

From  Cowcaddens  the  line  of  street  is  extended  west- 
ward by  the  New  City  Road  and  the  Great  Western 
Road.  The  tract  to  the  N  of  tliis  was  till  1830  quite 
open,  but  it  is  now  largely  built  on.  Across  the  Kelvin 
lies  the  separate  burgh  of  HUlhead,  the  whole  of  which 
is  of  quite  recent  structure.  It  covers  an  area  of  about 
5  by  4  furlongs.  The  streets  are  wide  and  airy,  and 
most  of  them  have  good  houses ;  while  there  are  a 
number  of  terraces,  with  grass  plots  and  trees  in  front. 
The  Botanic  Gardens  are  in  HLLlhead,  on  the  N  side  of 
the  Great  Western  Road.  SW  of  this  is  the  burgh  of 
Partick,  extending  towards  the  Clyde.  It  is  large 
enough  and  populous  enough  to  outrival  many  a  pro- 
vincial town  that  plumes  itself  on  its  importance.  The 
part  towards  the  river  is  occupied  by  densely-populated 
streets,  the  denizens  of  which  are  somewhat  noted  for 
their  rough  character  ;  but  on  the  rising-ground  to  the 
N  are  immense  numbers  of  detached  or  semi-detached 
villas,  which  render  this  district  one  of  the  prettiest 
and  pleasantest  about  Glasgow.  Govan,  on  the  S  side 
of  the  Clyde  opposite  Partick,  was  once  almost  a  rival 
of  Glasgow.  It  is  about  a  mile  in  length  by  2  furlongs 
in  breadth,  and  lies  along  the  bank  of  the  river.  The 
older  parts  of  it  show  plain  cottages,  now  somewhat 
dingy  ;  the  newer  parts  show  well-built  streets  and  neat 
villas.  The  bank  of  the  river  is  occupied  by  ship- 
building j'ards,  and  the  place  has  also  a  silk  factory  and 
a  fine  church  steeple,  modelled  after  that  of  Stratford- 
on-Avon.  Gorbals,  which  lies  E  of  Govan  along  the  S 
bank  of  the  Clyde,  is  the  largest  and  most  populous 
district  in  the  city,  and  is  indeed  large  enough  of  itself 
to  rival  Aberdeen  or  Dundee.  It  might  in  every  way 
be  described  as  the  Southwark  of  Glasgow.  It  measures 
about  2  miles  by  1  mile,  and  has,  in  connection  with 
new  manufactures,  with  railway  works,  and  with  har- 
bour works,  spread  rapidly  and  widely  between  1835 


j7Bar£oloiiifw:£.(liii^ 


,^«A[  ^ 


GLASGOW 

and  the  present  time.  It  comprises  the  districts  of 
Plantation,  Kinning  Park,  Kingston,  Tradeston,  Laurie- 
ston,  and  Hutcliesoutown.  Some  idea  of  the  rapid 
gro^rth  of  these  districts  may  be  gathered  from  the  fact 
that,  between  1861  and  1871,  the  population  of  Kinning 
Park  increased  from  651  to  7217.  The  streets  are  mostly 
regular,  but  vary  very  much  in  style.  Some  of  them, 
leading  to  PoUolcshields,  Crossbill,  and  Mount  Pleasant, 
are  handsome  and  good.  Eglinton  Street  and  Victoria 
Koad,  leading  from  Glasgow  Bridge  to  Queen's  Park,  is 
a  fine  line  of  thoroughfare.  Crossbill,  close  to  the 
Queen's  Park,  not  long  since  a  mere  village,  is  rapidly 
tecoming  a  thriving  town  of  villas. 

Gorbals  proper  is  a  name  sometimes  given  to  the 
parts  of  Laurieston  and  Hutchesontown  adjoining  the 
Clyde  near  Victoria  Bridge.  Its  chief  thoroughfare  used 
to  be  a  wretched  old,  narrow,  and  tortuous  street  called 
Main  Street,  ribbed  with  closes  of  the  most  squalid  and 
dismal  order,  every  house  in  which  was  overcrowded  to 
an  alarming  extent.  At  that  time  it  was  such  a  hot- 
bed of  quarrels  and  disturbance  that  it  was  known  as 
'  Little  Ireland. '  The  City  Improvement  Trust  has, 
however,  driven  a  new  street  with  a  width  of  70  feet 
straight  over  the  old  site  of  Main  Street  and  its  closes, 
and  it  has  also  formed  a  series  of  new  streets  from 
Kingston  Dock  to  the  E  end  of  Hutchesontown.  At 
the  intersection  of  this  line  with  Main  Street  a  sort  of 
square  has  been  formed,  measuring  about  200  by  180 
feet,  and  known  as  Gorbals  Cross.  Hutchesontown 
farther  E  still  is  about  6  by  4  furlongs,  and  has  of  late 
years  been  very  much  modified  by  the  operations  of  the 
City  Union  railway,  which  passes  through  the  western 
part  of  it.  It  contains  a  number  of  cotton  factories  and 
an  iron-work,  with  blast  furnaces  that  send  up  a  con- 
tinuous glare. 

History. — Unlike  many  of  the  populous  and  enter- 
prising towns  of  the  present  day,  Glasgow  can  boast  of 
a  history  which  proves  that,  even  in  those  remote  times 
when  trade  and  commerce  were  unknown,  it  was  a  place 
of  considerable  importance.  The  name  Glasgow  does 
not  appear  till  the  12th  century,  but  there  were  two 
villages  called  Deschu  and  Cathures  on  the  same  site. 
These  names,  however,  bore  so  little  resemblance  to 
the  present  form,  that  the  connection  was  difficult  to 
trace.  M'Ure,  the  earliest  historian  of  Glasgow,  says 
that  'it  is  called  Glasgow  because  in  the  Highland 
or  Irish  language  Glasgow  signifies  a  grayhound 
or  a  gray-smith.'  The  New  Statistical  takes  gray- 
smith  or  dark  glen,  the  latter  referring  to  the  ravine 
at  the  Molendinar  Burn.  Wade,  in  his  Histarij  of  Glas- 
gow, gives  "Welsh  glas,  'green,'  and  coed,  'a  wood' — 
the  gi-een  wood.  But  Mr  Macgeorge,  in  his  Old  Glccs- 
gotv,  seems  to  have  solved  the  difficulty.  He  suggests 
that  the  transcribers  of  the  old  MSS.  mistook  cl  for  d, 
and  so  wrote  Deschu  instead  of  Cleschu,  from  which 
comes  Gleschu,  and  hence  Glasgu  and  Glasgow  (Glas, 
'green,' and  (jt/hj,  'beloved, 'the  name  being  therefore  the 
beloved  green  place).  In  the  early  part  of  the  Christian 
era  we  find  the  district  inhabited  by  a  tribe  called  the 
Damnonii,  who  were,  during  the  time  the  Romans  held 
the  AVaU  of  Antoninus,  under  Roman  rule  within  the 
province  of  Valentia.  'This  wall,  in  its  course  from  Old 
Kilpatrick  on  the  Clyde  to  Blackness,  passed  a  short 
distance  to  the  N  of  Glasgow  ;  and  there  are  also  the 
remains  of  a  large  camp,  said  to  be  Roman,  on  the  lands 
of  Camphill,  near  the  battle-ground  of  Langside,  about  2 
miles  S  of  the  city.  Probably  there  were  Roman  garrisons 
at  stations  scattered  among  the  conquered  tribes  behind 
the  wall,  and  of  these  one  is  said  to  have  been  at  Glas- 
gow ;  but  nothing  except  the  vague  tradition  of  its 
existence  is  known,  not  even  its  name.  When  the 
Romans  retired,  the  district  became  part  of  the  Cum- 
brian British  kingdom  of  Strathelyde ;  but  the  im- 
portant place  in  this  connection  is  Dumbarton,  then 
the  chief  town,  and  called  Alclyde  or  the  Rock  of  the 
Clyde.  St  Ninian — who  was  trained  at  Rome,  and 
founded  the  church  of  Whithorn  in  397 — according  to 
the  12th  century  Life  of  St  Kcntigcrn  by  Jocelyn  of 
Furness,  established  a  primitive  church  and  consecrated 


GLASGOW 

a  burial-ground  at  a  place  called  Cathures,  where  Glas- 
gow Cathedral  now  stands.  This  was  about  the  begin- 
ning of  the  5th  century,  but  his  influence  seems  to 
have  passed  away  with  himself;  and  when  Deschu 
next  emerges  from  obscurity,  it  is  in  connection  with 
its  later  and  locally  more  famous  saint,  Kentigern  or 
Mungo,  who  made  his  appearance  in  the  district  some- 
where near  the  middle  of  the  6th  century,  and  probably 
about  543  a.d.  St  Kentigern  or  Mungo  was  tho  son 
of  Ewen  ap  Urien  or  Eugenius,  a  prince  of  the  Britons 
of  Strathelyde — according  to  some  the  King  of  Cum- 
bria— and  'rhenew,  daughter  of  Loth,  King  of  North- 
umhria,  or,  according  to  others,  King  of  the  Lothians, 
to  which  he  is  supposed  to  have  given  name.  Though 
Loth  was  '  a  man  half  pagan,"  his  daughter  had  becomo 
a  convert  to  Christianity,  and,  according  to  the  legend, 
in  her  zeal  for  her  new  faith,  became  desirous  of  rival- 
ling the  virginal  honour  and  maternal  blessedness  of  the 
Virgin  Mary.  In  carrying  out  her  purpose  she  scorned 
all  suitors.  Prince  Eugenius,  who  had  her  father's  in- 
fluence to  back  him,  among  the  rest.  To  escape  from 
farther  trouble,  she  at  last  fled  to  a  remote  part  of 
the  kingdom,  and  concealed  herself  in  the  lowly 
guise  of  a  swineherd.  Prince  Eugenius,  however,  fol- 
lowed her  and  found  her,  and  she  returned  to  her 
father's  court,  only  to  be  relentlessly  condemned  to 
death  on  account  of  her  condition.  Though  she  denied 
aU  crime,  her  father  refused  to  listen  to  her  prayers  for 
life,  and  handed  her  over  to  the  executioners  to  be 
stoned  to  death.  They  preferred  the  easier  plan  of 
casting  her  over  a  precipice,  Dumpender  or  Traprain 
Law,  but  she  escaped  unhurt.  This  was  considered 
clear  proof  of  sorcery,  and  she  was  put  into  a  corade, 
which  was  taken  down  the  Forth  to  the  Isle  of  May 
and  there  set  adrift ;  but  this  was  no  more  fatal  to 
her  than  the  former  attempt,  for  a  shoal  of  fishes 
made  their  appearance  at  this  opportune  moment  and 
carried  the  boat  on  their  backs  to  the  shallow  water 
at  Culross,  on  the  N  side  of  the  Firth  of  Forth.  Here 
Thenew  landed  and  gave  birth  to  a  son,  and  both 
mother  and  chUd  were  brought  by  some  of  the  country 
people  to  St  Serf  or  Servanus,  a  disciple  of  St  Palladius, 
who  had  here  established  a  little  monastery.*  He 
received  them  into  his  household,  where  the  infant  re- 
ceived his  nurture,  and  was  taught  the  rudiments  of  his 
faith.  The  boy,  named  Kentigern  (Welsh  cyn,  '  chief," 
and  teyrn,  '  lord '),  turned  out  so  well  as  he  grew  up, 
that  he  became  a  great  favourite  with  the  aged  Serf, 
who  gave  him  the  pet  name  of  Munghu  (Welsh  mwyn, 
'amiable,'  and  cii,  'dear'),  whence  came  the  second 
name  of  '  Mungo, '  by  which  the  saint  is  now  probably 
better  known  than  by  the  name  of  Kentigern.  As  he 
grew  in  years  and  knowledge,  he  displaj'ed  a  faculty 
for  working  miracles  which  soon  attracted  attention. 
He  restored  to  life  a  robin-redbreast  whose  head  had 
been  cut  off ;  one  winter  night  when  the  fire  was 
quenched  by  his  enemies,  he  kindled  it  again  with  a 
frozen  branch  which  he  blew  into  a  flame  ;  during  har- 
vest the  cook  died  and  there  was  no  one  to  provide 
food  for  the  reapers,  whereupon  St  Serf  himself  came 
and  enjoined  his  Mungo  either  to  restore  the  cook  to 
life  or  to  fill  his  place,  a  command  which  he  obeyed  by 
bringing  the  cook  to  life  again.  Obeying  a  monition 
of  the  Spir-it,  he  secretly  left  Culross  to  devote  himself 
to  work  in  other  places,  and  went  southward,  the  waters 
of  the  Forth  opening  to  allow  him  to  pass.  He  was 
followed  by  St  Serf,  who,  looking  forward  to  him  as  his 
successor,  begged  him  to  return ;  but  feeUng  his  duty 
to  lie  elsewhere,  he  would  not  go  back.  Journeying 
westward,  he  found,  at  a  place  called  Kernach,  an  aged 
Christian  named  Fergus,  to  whom  it  had  been  revealed 
that  he  should  not  die  imtil  he  had  seen  one  who  was  to 
bring  back  the  district  to  the  faith  of  St  Ninian,  and 
who,  almost  as  soon  as  he  saw  St  Mungo,  fell  dead  on  the 
ground.  Taking  the  body  with  him  in  a  cart  drawn  by 
two  wild  bulls,  the  saint  proceeded  on  his  journey  till  he 
reached  Deschu  and  Cathures  on  the  banks  of  the  Clyde, 

*  The  anachronism  involved  in  this  portion  of  the  legend  has 
been  already  noticed  under  Culross. 

97 


GLASGOW 

and  here,  in  the  churchyard  consecrated  by  St  Ninian, 
he  buried  Fergus.  His  fame  must  have  either  gone 
before  him  or  must  have  spread  very  rapidly,  for  he  was 
almost  immediately  visited  by  the  king  and  the  leading 
men  of  Strathclyde,  who  begged  him  to  become  their 
religious  guide.  The  saint,  who  was  only  twenty-five, 
pleaded  his  youth  as  an  excuse ;  but  they  were  deter- 
mined to  have  him,  and  he  was  consecrated  by  a  bishop 
brought  from  Ireland  for  the  purpose.  His  habits  were 
very  ascetic,  for  he  is  said  to  have  been  in  the  habit  of 
often  rising  in  the  middle  of  the  night  and  rushing  into 
the  Molendinar  Burn,  where  he  remained  in  the  water, 
no  matter  what  the  season  or  the  weather,  till  he  had 
recited  the  whole  of  the  Psalms  of  David.  He  still  re- 
tained miraculous  power.  A  young  man  who  scoffed  at 
him  was  killed  suddenly  by  a  falling  weight ;  he  sowed 
sand  and  a  crop  of  iine  grain  grew  ;  he  ploughed  a  field 
with  a  team  consisting  of  a  wolf  and  a  stag.  At  length, 
however,  he  became  involved  in  a  quarrel  with  the  king 
— Morken — because  in  answer  to  a  mocking  taunt  of  his 
majesty  he  had  actually  caused  the  Clyde  to  sweep  the 
contents  of  the  king's  barns  at  Cathures  up  the  Molen- 
dinar Biun  to  Deschu.  Morken  shortly  after,  using 
violence  to  the  saint,  was  killed  by  being  flung  from  his 
horse,  and  the  saint,  to  escape  the  vengeance  of  the 
king's  relatives,  had  to  flee  to  Wales.  Here,  after  re- 
maining for  a  time  with  St  David,  he  founded  a  monas- 
tery, and  gathered  about  him  a  band  of  disciples  at  the 
place  now  known,  from  the  most  celebrated  of  his  fol- 
lowers, as  St  Asaph's.  The  victory  of  Arthuret  (573) 
placed  Eydderch  Hael  on  the  throne  of  Strathclyde, 
and  he  at  once  despatched  an  embassy  to  "Wales  to  St 
Mungo  to  urge  him  to  return  to  his  old  abode  on  the 
banks  of  the  Clyde,  and,  the  effort  succeeding,  the 
saint's  power  became  greater  than  before.  His  miracu- 
lous gift  continued,  and  was  exemplified  in  a  very 
wonderful  way  in  connection  with  the  queen.  This 
lady,  named  Langueth,  had  received  from  her  husband 
at  their  marriage  a  peculiar  ring,  of  which  she  was  not 
so  careful  as  she  should  have  been,  and  which  she 
had  entrusted  to  the  keeping  of  a  soldier  with  whom 
she  was  in  some  way  connected.  The  king  one  day 
found  the  soldier  sleeping,  and  noticed  the  ring  on  his 
finger,  and,  his  anger  being  roused  at  the  small  value 
the  queen  thus  seemed  to  set  upon  the  jewel,  he  took 
it  from  the  man's  finger,  and  casting  it  into  the  river, 
went  straightway  to  the  queen  and  told  her  he 
wished  for  the  ring.  She  urged  delay,  and  sent  at  once 
for  it,  but  it  was,  of  course,  not  to  be  found ;  and  her 
majesty  in  great  dismay  applied  to  the  saint,  who  forth- 
with came  to  her  rescue.  He  told  her  to  cause  a  fishing- 
line  to  be  cast  into  the  Clyde,  when  the  first  fish  that 
was  caught  would  be  found  to  have  the  ring  either  in  its 
mouth  or  in  its  stomach.  This  turned  out  exactly  as 
he  had  said,  and  the  ring  being  thus  restored  the  jealous 
monarch  was  satisfied. 


Seal  of  Glasgow. 

This  incident  has  given  the  city  the  main  features  of  its 

armorial  bearings,  while  other  incidents  in  St  Mungo's 

life  have  supplied  the  whole.     The  arms,  as  settled  by 

the  Lord  Lyon,  King  of  Arms,  and  described  in  his 

98 


GLASGO'W 

patent  granted  at  Edinburgh  on  25  Oct.  1S65,  are  : 
— 'Argent,  on  a  mount  in  base  vert  an  oak  tree 
proper,  the  stem  at  the  base  thereof  surmounted  by  a 
salmon  on  its  back,  also  proper,  with  a  signet  ring  in  its 
mouth,  or ;  on  the  top  of  the  tree  a  redbreast,  and  on 
the  sinister  fess  point  an  ancient  hand-bell,  both  also  pro- 
per. Above  the  shield  is  to  be  placed  a  suitable  helmet, 
mth  a  mantling  gules,  doubled  argent,  and  issuing  out 
of  a  wreath  of  the  proper  liveries  is  to  be  set  for  crest  the 
half-length  figure  of  S.  Eentigern,  aifronte,  vested  and 
mitred,  his  right  hand  raised  in  the  act  of  benediction,  and 
having  in  his  left  hand  a  crozier,  all  proper  :  in  a  com- 
partment below  the  shield  are  to  be  placed  for  supporters 
two  salmon  proper,  each  holding  in  itsmouth  a  signetring, 
or ;  and  in  the  escrol  entwined  with  the  compartment 
this  motto,  "  Let  Glasgow  flourish."  '  The  salmon  and 
the  ring  are  connected  with  the  foregoing  story ;  the 
tree  is  the  branch  mth  which  the  monastery  fire  was 
lighted ;  the  bii-d  is  the  robin  that  was  miraculously 
restored  to  life  ;  and  the  bell  is  the  consecrated  one  that 
was  brought  from  Rome  by  St  Mungo  when  he  visited 
the  sacred  city  in  his  later  years,  and  which  was  placed 
in  the  college  buildings,  and  preserved  in  Glasgow  till 
the  Reformation,  or  perhaps  to  a  later  date.  It  was 
called  St  Mungo's  Bell,  and  was  toUed  through  the  city 
to  warn  the  inhabitants  to  pray  for  the  repose  of  a  de- 
parted soul.  These  tokens  appear  on  the  seals  of  the 
bishops  of  Glasgow  tu  the  12th  and  13th  centuries,  from 
which  they  were  transferred  to  the  common  seal  of  the 
city  in  the  beginning  of  the  14th.  This  at  least  seems 
a  probable  explanation,  and  as  such  it  is  now  accepted 
in  preference  to  the  fanciful  theory  propounded  by 
Cleland  in  his  Rise  and  Progress  of  Glasgow,  where 
he  says,  '  The  tree  is  emblematical  of  the  spreadtag  of 
the  Gospel  :  its  leaves  being  represented  as  for  the 
healing  of  the  nations.  The  bird  is  also  typical  of  that 
glorious  event,  so  beautifully  described  under  the 
similitude  of  the  winter  being  passed,  and  the  rain 
over  and  gone,  the  time  of  the  singing  of  birds  being 
come,  and  the  voice  of  the  turtle  heard  in  our  land. 
Bells  for  calling  the  faithful  to  prayers,  and  other  holy 
ordinances  of  the  Church,  have  been  considered  so  im- 
portant in  Roman  Catholic  countries,  that  for  several 
centuries  past  the  right  of  consecration  has  been  con- 
ferred on  them  by  the  dignitaries  of  the  Church.  That 
religion  might  not  absorb  the  whole  insignia  of  the 
town,  the  trade,  which  at  that  time  was  confined  to 
fishing  and  curing  salmon,  came  in  for  its  share,  and 
this  circumstance  gave  rise  to  the  idea  of  giving  the 
salmon  a  place  in  the  arms  of  the  city.'  The  motto, 
which  is  said  to  have  been  in  its  original  form  '  Let 
Glasgow  flourish  by  the  preaching  of  the  word,'  tradi- 
tionally takes  its  origin  from  a  mound  which  the  saint 
raised  miraculously  at  the  Dovehill  E  of  the  Cross,  to 
enable  him  to  get  an  elevation  from  which  to  preach  to 
the  crowd.  Glasgow  was  to  rise  and  flourish  as  this 
mound  had  done.  The  motto  does  not,  however,  seem 
to  have  been  in  use  previous  to  1699. 

The  rest  of  the  saint's  life  is  little  more  than  a  record 
of  the  miracles  he  performed,  not  only  in  Strathclyde, 
but  all  over  the  country,  his  ti'avels  being  widely  ex- 
tended, and  on  more  than  one  occasion  reaching  as  far 
as  Rome,  where  he  was  kindly  received  by  the  Pope  and 
confirmed  in  his  bishopric.  The  one  historic  event  of 
his  later  years  appears  to  be  his  visit  from  Columba  on 
the  banks  of  the  Molendinar  about  the  year  584,  when 
the  saints  interchanged  their  pastoral  staves.  His  death 
took  place  probably  in  612,  and  he  was  buried,  according 
to  the  monkish  chronicler,  at  the  right  hand  side  of  the 
high  altar  of  the  cathedral.  See  the  two  Lives  of  St 
Kentigern  edited  by  Bishop  Forbes  in  vol.  v.  of  Tlie 
Historians  of  Scotland  (Edinb.  1874),  and  vol.  ii.,  pp. 
197-198,  of  Dr  Skene's  Celtic  Scotland  (Edinb.  1877). 

The  successors  of  St  Mungo  are  involved  in  obscurity, 
though  no  doubt  the  sanctity  pertaining  to  the  resting- 
place  of  the  bones  of  so  holy  a  man  would  for  a  time 
keep  his  establishment  together,  and  help  to  increase 
the  size  of  the  village  close  by.  It  must  have  suffered, 
however,   in  the   struggle    against    the  supremacy  of 


GLASGOW 

tlio  Roman  Church,  and  probably  also  in  the  com- 
motions and  strife  produced  lay  the  incursions  of  tho 
Danes,  as  well  as  in  the  contest  in  which  the  Icing- 
dom  of  Strathclyde  disappeared  and  the  country  passed 
under  the  sway  of  the  king  of  the  Scots.  Whatever 
the  cause,  so  at  least  it  was  ;  and,  just  as  in  the  case 
of  Lichfield,  the  records  of  the  see  of  Glasgow  dis- 
appear for  full  500  years.  'After  St  Mungo,"  says 
M'Ure,  a  quaint  early  historian  of  Glasgow,  'for  many 
ages  the  Episcopal  see  was  overrun  with  heathenism  and 
barbarity  till  the  reign  of  Alexander  I. '  When  Alex- 
ander succeeded  to  the  throne  in  1107,  he  bestowed 
on  his  younger  brother  David,  Prince  of  Cumbria, 
all  the  territory  S  of  the  Forth  except  the  Lothians  ; 
and  as  David  inherited  all  his  mother's  zeal  for  reli- 
gion, he  set  himself  to  look  after  the  spiritual  condition 
of  his  subjects  as  vigorously  as  after  their  temporal 
welfare.  The  saintly  character  of  St  Mungo,  and  his 
connection  with  Glasgow,  very  soon  attracted  David's 
attention,  and  in  1115  he  restored  the  see,  and  ap- 
pointed his  tutor  and  chaplain  John  (commonly  called 
Achaius)  the  first  of  the  new  line  of  bishops.  John, 
who  was  a  man  of  learning  and  ability,  as  well  as  with 
considerable  knowledge  of  the  world,  for  he  had  tra- 
velled extensively  on  the  Continent,  was  at  first  some- 
what univilling  to  accept  the  prolTered  promotion,  but 
at  last  yielded  to  the  prince's  wishes,  and  was  consecrated 
by  Pope  Paschal  IL ,  to  whom  he  was  well  known.  An  in- 
quisition '  concerning  the  lands  belonging  to  the  church 
of  Glasgow,'  a  copy  of  which  exists  in  the  chartulary  of 
Glasgow,  was  made  in  1120.  In  this  it  is  set  forth  that 
' various  disturbances,  everywhere  arising, 'had  'not 
only  destroyed  the  church  and  her  possessions,  but, 
wasting  the  whole  country,  driven  the  inhabitants  into 
e.xi!°;'  and  that  the  inhabitants,  thus  left  to  them- 
selves, had  followed  the  manners  of  the  Gentiles  and 
lived  '  like  brutes  ; '  but  that  now  '  God  sent  unto  them 
David  as  their  prince,'  who  was  to  set  this  scandalous 
state  of  matters  right,  and  who  for  that  purpose  had 
appointed  John  as  their  bishop.  John,  it  goes  on  to 
say,  was  frightened  at  their  barbarity  and  their  abomin- 
able sins,  but  had  been  constrained  by  the  Pope  to  enter 
upon  the  burdensome  charge  ;  and  so  the  Prince  had 
caused  all  the  lands  formerly  belonging  to  the  church 
of  Glasgow  to  be  found  out  and  made  over  to  the  new 
bishop,  that  he  might  have  sinews  for  his  struggle  with 
the  wrong.  The  bishop  had  more  trouble,  too,  than 
what  merely  arose  from  the  condition  of  his  see,  for  he 
got  involved  in  a  quarrel  about  church  supremacy  with 
the  Archbishop  of  York,  who  claimed  to  be  metropolitan 
of  Scotland,  and  adduced  in  support  of  that  claim  a 
record  (strongly,  and  with  good  cause,  suspected  of  being 
a  forgery)  of  three  bishops  of  Glasgow  consecrated  at 
York  in  the  11th  century.  John  resisted  the  York 
claims,  and  was  so  sorely  tried  that  he  quitted  his  see 
for  the  purpose  of  proceeding  to  the  Holy  Land.  The 
Pope,  however,  ordered  him  to  return,  and  1124  found 
the  good  bishop  not  only  settled  again,  but  beginning 
to  replace  the  primitive  church  of  St  Mungo  by  a  statelier 
erection,  of  which  some  parts  were  of  stone.  The  new 
cathedral  was  consecrated  in  presence  of  his  royal 
patron,  who  was  now  King  of  Scotland,  on  7  July  1136. 
The  Prince  had,  on  his  accession  to  the  throne,  made 
large  donations  to  the  establishment,  and  he  now  further 
conferred  on  it  the  lands  of  Perdeyc  [Partick],  which 
still  form  part  of  the  episcopal  belongings,  though  they 
have  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  University.  Accord- 
ing to  the  Ecgistrum  E2nscopatus  Glasg^tensis,  '  the 
king,  David  I.,  gave  to  the  church  the  land  of  Perdeyc 
[Partick],  which  was  soon  afterwards  erected,  along  with 
the  church  of  Guvan  [Govan],  into  a  prebend  of  the 
cathedral.     In  addition  to  the  long  list  of  possessions* 

*  Viz. :— Carle\ien.  Camcaw,  Camcaheth>-n,  LengarthejTi,  Pathel, 
Asserhe,  Canclut,  Chefernenuat,  Cametheyn,  Carvil,  Quendal, 
Abercarf,  Meelieyn,  Planmichel,  Stobo,  Pentelacob,  Alnerumba, 
Keveronum,  Lilleseliva,  Hodelm,  Edyngahum,  Abermele,  Drives- 
dale,  Colchtam,  Kevertrole,  Asdiib,"  Brumeseheyd.  Keversgyrt; 
in  Peeblis,  one  carucate  of  land  and  a  church  ;  in  Kincayrd,  one 
carucate  of  land  and  a  church ;  in  Mereboda,  one  carucate  of 
land  and  a  church. 


GLASGOW 

restored  to  Glasgow  upon  the  verdict  of  the  assize  of 
inquest,  this  saintly  King  granted  to  the  bishop  the 
church  of  Renfrew  ;  Guvan,  with  its  church  ;  the  church 
of  Cadihou  [Cadzow] ;  the  tithe  of  his  cane  or  duties 
paid  in  cattle  and  swine  throughout  Strathgrif,  Cuning- 
ham,  Kyle,  and  Carrick  ;  and  the  eighth  penny  of  all 
pleas  of  court  throughout  Cumbria  (which  included  the 
greater  part  of  Scotland  S  of  the  Forth  and  Clyde,  as 
well  as  the  English  county  of  Cumberland).  The  bishop 
also  acquired  the  church  of  Lochorwort,  near  Borthwick 
in  Lothian,  from  the  Bishop  of  St  Andrews,  the  King 
and  Prince  present  and  consenting.'  David,  the  sainted 
son  of  St  Margaret,  was  the  greatest  benefactor  known 
in  the  annals  of  the  see  of  Glasgow,  and  this  is  only 
one  example  of  that  liberality  in  gifting  royal  posses- 
sions to  the  Church  which  earned  him  from  James  VI. 
the  character  of  '  ane  sair  sanot  for  the  croon.'  At  the 
time  of  the  consecration  of  the  cathedral,  '  the  diocese 
was  divided  into  two  archdeaconries  of  Glasgow  and 
Teviotdale,  and  for  the  first  time  there  were  appointed 
a  dean,  sub-dean,  chancellor,  treasurer,  sacrist,  chanter, 
and  sub-chanter,  all  of  whom  had  prebends  settled  upon 
them  out  of  the  gifts  received  from  the  King.'  Bishop 
John  died  on  28  May  1147,  after  having  held  the  see 
for  the  long  period  of  thirty-two  years.  He  was  suc- 
ceeded by  Bishop  Herbert,  in  whose  time  the  strife  with 
York  was  finally  ended  by  Pope  Alexander  III.,  who 
decided  that  the  only  controlling  power  over  the  Church 
of  Scotland  was  the  see  of  Rome.  He  died  in  1164,  in 
which  year  also  Malcolm  IV.  made  proclamation  that 
tithes  were  to  be  paid  in  the  bishopric  of  Glasgow  just 
as  elsewdiere.  Herbert  was  succeeded  by  Ingram,  who 
died  in  1174  ;  and  was  in  turn  succeeded  by  Joceline, 
abbot  of  the  Cistercian  monastery  of  Melrose,  who  was 
consecrated  at  Clairvaux,  in  France,  on  1  June  1175,  by 
Esceline,  the  Pope's  legate.  He  is  reputed  on  all  hands 
to  have  been  a-worthy  and  liberal-minded  prelate,  and 
his  actions  prove  him  to  have  been  one  of  the  greatest, 
if  not  the  greatest,  of  the  occupants  of  the  episcopal 
throne  of  Glasgow.  Above  all  others  ought  he  to  be 
held  in  happy  remembrance  by  the  citizens  of  Glasgow, 
for,  by  a  charter  obtained  from  William  the  Lyon  about 
1180,  the  first  start  was  given  to  the  growth  of  Deschu 
iuto  something  more  than  a  village.  By  this  charter 
Glasgow  was  constituted  a  burgh  of  barony,  holding  of 
the  bishop  ;  and  the  King  granted  and  confirmed  '  to 
God  and  St  Kentigern,  and  Joceline,  Bishop  of  Glasgow, 
and  all  his  successors  for  ever,  that  they  shall  hold  a 
burgh  at  Glasgow,  with  a  weekly  market  on  Thursday, 
fully  and  freelj',  with  all  freedoms,  liberties,  and  customs 
which  any  of  my  burghs  throughout  the  whole  of  my 
kingdom  enjoy.'  Subsequently^  about  1190,  the  bishop 
obtained  for  his  burgh  the  further  privilege  of  '  a  fair  to 
be  kept  at  Glasgow,  and  to  be  held  every  year  for  ever, 
from  the  octave  of  the  Apostles  Peter  and  Paul,  for  the 
space  of  eight  days  complete,  with '  the  King's  '  full 
protection,  and  with  every  freedom  and  aU  other  liberties 
belonging  and  granted  to  fairs  throughout  the  whole  of 
his  '  dominions,  as  fully  and  freely  as  all  fairs  are  or 
ought  to  be  held  in  any  of  his  'dominions.'  The 
octave  of  St  Peter  and  St  Paul  fell  on  6  July,  and  on 
that  date  the  fair  is  still  kept  up  with  unfailing  regu- 
larity, the  only  difference  from  the  olden  time  being, 
that,  instead  of  being  held  for  business  purposes,  it  is 
now  characterised  by  the  total  want  of  it,  Glasgow  Fair 
being  in  those  days  the  annual  holidays,  when  labour  is 
suspended  and  the  industrious  thousands  enjoy  a  few  days' 
recreation.  While  thus  mindful  of  the  temporal  benefit 
of  those  under  his  charge,  he  was  no  less  diligent  in 
matters  relating  to  their  spiritual  care.  In  1192  the 
church  built  by  Bishop  John  was  burned,  and  so  com- 
plete was  the  destruction  that  it  is  evident  the  greater 
portion  must  have  been  constructed  of  wood,  though, 
judging  from  the  fragments  of  Norman  architecture  that 
have  since  been  dug  up,  some  part  at  least  was  of  stone. 
Joceline  at  once  set  himself  to  the  task  of  rearing  a  new 
and  more  substantial  edifice.  He  obtained  a  royal  edict 
from  his  ever-ready  patron.  King  William,  which  ex- 
pressed the  King's  sympathy  with  the  ruined  condition 

99 


GLASGOW 

of  tlie  cliurcli,  which  '  consumed  by  fire,'  required  '  the 
most  ample  expenditure  for  its  repairs,"  and  charged  all 
his  servants  throughout  the  kingdom  to  give  what  help 
they  could  to  the  '  fraternity '  (a  committee  for  gather- 
ing subscriptions  ?)  appointed  by  the  bishop.  Aid  was 
invoked  from  the  pious  all  over  Europe  ;  and  Joceline's 
appeal  was  so  generously  answered,  that  the  present 
beautiful  crypt  known  by  his  name  was  consecrated  in 
1197,  on  the  octave  of  St  Peter  and  St  Paul,  other  two 
bishops  besides  Joceline  himself  taking  part  in  the  cere- 
mony. In  the  crypt  a  tomb  was  erected,  with  a  votive 
altar,  dedicated  to  St  Mungo.  The  merit  has  aisp  been 
assigned  to  Joceline  of  having  built  the  superincumbent 
choir  and  lady  chapel ;  but  it  seems  now  proved  that 
these  were  only  commenced  by  him,  and  were  completed 
by  his  successors.  Still  the  honour  belongs  to  him  of 
being  the  founder  of  the  existing  magnificent  and  vene- 
rable sti'ucture,  for  it  is  certain  that  no  part  of  the 
chmch  built  by  Bishop  John  now  remains  above  ground. 
After  having  held  office  for  twenty-four  years,  Joceline 
died  on  17  March  1199,  and  was  buried  on  the  right  side 
of  the  choir.  The  next  three  bishops  seem  to  have  done 
little  or  nothing  for  the  rising  burgh  ;  but  in  the  time 
of  the  next  bisliop,  Walter,  a  contest  took  place  with 
Dumbarton  and  Eutherglen,  both  by  that  time  royal 
burghs,  with  regard  to  tolls  and  customs.  A  royal 
charter  had  granted  exemption  to  the  bishop  and  his 
people  from  the  dues  levied  by  these  places,  and  this 
the  royal  burghs  resented  and  opposed  as  an  infringe- 
ment of  their  privileges  ;  but,  notwithstanding  all  their 
efforts,  the  bishop  was  powerful  enough  to  obtain  an 
edict  declaring  that  his  burgesses  'were  entitled  to 
trade  in  Lennox  and  Argyll  as  freely  as  the  men  of 
Dumbarton,'  and  Rutherglen  was  prohibited  from  levy- 
ing toll  or  custom  nearer  Glasgow  than  the  cross  of 
Shettlestone.  Bishop  Walter  died  in  1232,  and  was 
succeeded  by  William  de  Bondington,  who  pushed  on 
the  building  of  the  cathedral,  and  in  whose  time  the 
choir  was  either  altogether  or  almost  finished.  A  special 
canon  was  passed  at  a  provincial  council  of  the  clergy, 
commending  the  work  to  the  benevolence  of  the  faithful, 
and  promising  certain  indulgences  to  all  who  should 
contribute.  This  Bishop  William,  who  also  held  the 
office  of  chancellor  to  King  Alexander  II.  during  the 
latter  half  of  his  reign,  was  a  munificent  prelate,  and, 
besides  his  exertions  on  behalf  of  the  cathedral,  he 
aided,  in  1246,  in  establishing  at  Glasgow  a  monastery 
of  friars  of  the  order  of  St  Dominic  (Black  Friars). 
Their  church,  which  is  said  to  have  rivalled  the  cathe- 
dral itself,  was  dedicated  to  the  blessed  Virgin  and  St 
John  the  Evangelist ;  and  when  the  building  com- 
menced, Pope  Innocent  IV.  issued  a  bull  of  forty  days' 
indulgence  to  all  who  should  contribute  to  its  comple- 
tion. The  church  stood  on  the  E  side  of  High  Street, 
and  must  have  been  a  fine  old  building.  M'Ure  declares 
that  it  was  '  the  ancientest  building  of  Gothic  kind  of 
work  that  could  be  seen  in  the  whole  kingdom,  as  was 
observed  by  Mr  Miln,  the  architect  to  King  Charles  I. , 
who,  when  he  surveyed  it  in  1638,  declared  that  it  had 
not  its  parallel  in  all  Scotland,  except  Whittairn  in  Gallo- 
way.' Even  in  1638,  however,  it  must  have  lost  some 
of  its  old  grandeur,  for  at  the  time  of  the  Pieformation 
it  was  deserted  and  probably  injured  ;  and  on  24  April 
1574  it  was  '  statute,  thocht  gude,  and  ordainit,  be  the 
provest,  baillies,  and  counsale  that  the  westir  ruinous 
gavill  of  the  Blackfreir  kirk  and  the  stanes  thereof  be 
tain  doun '  and  sold,  and  the  proceeds  applied  to  mend- 
ing the  windows  and  the  minister's  seat  '  in  the  said 
kirk.'  The  latter  building  survived  tUl  1670,  when, 
having  been  struck  by  lightning,  it  was  taken  down 
and  replaced  by  the  old  College  or  Blackfriars  church, 
which  is  now  also  gone.  The  adjoining  '  place '  or 
monastery  of  the  friars  was  largely  and  richly  endowed. 
When  King  Edward  I.  of  England  remained  in  Glasgow 
for  a  fortnight  in  the  autumn  of  1301,  he  was  lodged  in 
the  monastery  of  the  Friars  Preachers,  from  which  it 
may  be  inferred  that  it  was  the  only  building  in  the 
town  capable  of  accommodating  the  monarch  and  his 
train.  Although  his  residence  was  with  the  friars, 
100 


GLASGOW 

however,  Edward,  as  became  one  desirous  of  being  re- 
puted a  pious  king,  was  constant  in  his  offerings  at  the 
high  altar  and  the  shrine  of  St  Mungo.  The  accounts 
of  Edward's  wardrobe  show  that  he  requited  the  hos- 
pitality of  the  brethren  with  a  payment  of  six  shillings. 
No  vestiges  of  the  monastery  now  remain.  It  occupied 
the  site  of  the  old  university,  near  the  place  nov.  occu- 
pied by  the  Midland  Railway  Company's  ofiices. 

Bishop  William  died  in  1258,  and  his  two  successors 
are  of  very  little  importance  or  influence,  one  of  them 
beiug  indeed  so  obnoxious  to  his  flock  that  he  resided  at 
Rome.  In  1273,  however,  Robert  Wishart  or  Wischard, 
a  man  of  eminence  and  a  member  of  the  council  of  Alex- 
ander III.,  became  bishop.  Unlike  his  predecessors  his 
services  were  of  a  national  rather  than  of  a  local  nature. 
Being,  after  the  death  of  the  king,  appointed  one  of  the 
lords  of  regency,  he  took  a  vigorous  part  in  the  struggle 
for  national  independence ;  and  in  these  perilous  times  no 
man  exerted  himself  with  more  ardour  or  a  purer  patriot- 
ism towards  the  preservation  of  the  independence  of  his 
country  from  the  assaults  of  Edward  I.  It  was  in 
Glasgow  during  his  episcopate  that  Wallace  was  cap- 
tm-ed  on  5  Aug.  1305  by  Sir  Alexander  Monteith,  and 
carried  off  to  Dumbarton,  thence  a  week  later  to  be 
taken  to  London  for  trial  and  execution  ;  and  Wishart 
himself,  although  imprisoned  by  the  English,  and  so 
cruelly  treated  that  he  became  blind,  yet  lived  to  see  the 
cause  for  which  he  had  struggled  entirely  successfiil,  and 
Robert  the  Bruce  firmly  seated  on  the  Scottish  throne. 
'  The  afi'ectionate  sympathy  expressed  by  the  King 
(Robert  the  Bruce)  for  the  bishop  would  serve  to  give  us 
some  insight  into  his  character,  even  if  the  history  of 
Robert  Wischard  were  not  so  well  known.  It  was  a 
time  when  strong  oppression  on  the  one  side  made  the 
other  almost  forget  the  laws  of  good  faith  and  humanity. 
Our  bishop  did  hopiage  to  the  Suzerain  and  trans,gressed 
it ;  he  swore  fidelity  over  and  over  again  to  the  King  of 
England,  and  as  often  broke  his  oath.  He  kept  no 
faith  with  Edward.  He  preached  against  him ;  and 
when  the  occasion  offered,  he  buckled  on  his  armour 
like  a  Scotch  baron  and  fought  against  him.  But  let  it 
not  be  said  that  he  changed  sides  as  fortune  changed. 
When  the  weak  Baliol  renounced  his  allegiance  to  his 
overlord,  the  bishop,  who  knew  both,  must  have  divined 
to  which  side  victory  would  incline,  and  yet  he  opposed 
Edward.  When  Wallace,  almost  single-handed,  set  up 
the  standard  of  revolt  agaiast  the  all-powerful  Edward, 
the  Bishop  of  Glasgow  immediately  joined  him.  When 
Robert  Bruce,  friendless  and  a  fugitive,  raised  the  old 
war-cry  of  Scotland,  the  bishop  supported  him.  Bruce 
was  proscribed  by  Edward  and  under  the  anathema  of 
the  Church.  The  bishop  assoilzied  him  for  the  sacri- 
legious slaughter  of  Comyn  (in  the  Greyfriars'  Church 
at  Dumfries),  and  prepared  the  robes  and  royal  banner 
for  his  coronation.  Wischard  was  taken  prisoner  in  the 
castle  of  Cupar,  which  he  had  held  against  the  English 
in  1306,  and  was  not  liberated  till  after  Bannockburn. 
.  .  .  The  bishop  had  grown  blind  in  prison.'  Not- 
withstanding his  activity  in  national  matters  he  took 
also  an  interest  in  his  cathedral,  for  he  seems  to  have 
made  arrangements  for  a  supply  of  timber  for  the  erec- 
tion of  a  steeple,  and  part  of  this,  curiously,  he  had  pro- 
cured from  Edward  himself ;  indeed  one  of  the  charges 
preferred  by  the  English  king  against  the  bishop  was 
'  that  he  had  used  timber  which  he  [Edward]  had 
allowed  him  for  building  a  steeple  to  his  cathedral,  in 
constructing  engines  of  war  against  the  King's  castles, 
and  especially  the  castle  of  Kirkintilloch.'  So  greatly 
was  Edward's  anger  roused  against  the  patriotic  bishop 
that,  had  not  fear  of  exciting  the  ire  and  resentment  of 
the  Pope  restrained  his  hand,  he  would  probably  have 
put  him  to  death.  Wischard  was,  along  with  Bruce's 
queen  and  daughter,  exchanged  for  the  Earl  of  Here- 
ford, who  had  been  captured  in  BothweU  Castle  by 
Edward  Bruce  immediately  after  the  Battle  of  Ban- 
nockburn. The  severity  of  his  treatment,  however, 
had  proved  too  much  for  him,  and  he  died  in  Nov. 
1316,  and  was  buried  in  the  cathedral  between  the 
altars  of  St  Peter  and  St  Andrew.     During  the  earlier 


GLASGOW 

part  of  tlie  national  strife,  an  English  garrison  was 
quartered  in  the  bishop's  castle  near  the  cathedral,  and 
many  of  the  older  historians,  following  Blind  Harry, 
make  Glasgow  the  scene,  in  1300,  of  a  desperate  conflict 
between  the  English  and  the  Scots.  However  much  the 
details  may  be  open  to  question,  there  is  probably  some 
foundation  of  fact  for  the  incident,  though  the  blind 
bard  has  undoubtedly  indulged  his  usual  tendency  to 
such  exaggeration  as  would  magnify  the  exploits  of  his 
hero.  Edward,  it  is  stated,  had  appointed  one  of  his 
creatures  named  Anthony  Beck  or  Beik  Bishop  of  Glas- 
gow during  the  captivity  of  Robert  Wishart,  and  a 
large  English  force,  under  Earl  Percy,  was  stationed  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  cathedral,  both  for  the  pur- 
pose of  supporting  the  bishop  in  his  new  dignity  and  of 
overawing  the  discontented  inhabitants  of  the  western 
shires.  Wallace,  who  was  in  possession  of  Ayr,  after 
the  burning  of  the  barns,  gathered  his  men  and  ad- 
dressed them, — 

'  Ye  knaw  that  thar  wes  set 
Sic  law  as  this  now  into  Glaskow  toune 
Be  byschope  Beik  and  Persye  off  renouii, 
Tlaarfor  I  will  in  haist  we  tllidder  fair.' 

He  first  summoned  the  men  of  Ayr, 

*  And  gaiif  commaund  in  gcnerall  to  thaim  aw. 
In  keepynij  thai  suld  tak  the  hoiiss  off  Ayr, 
And  hald  it  haill  quhill  tyzne  that  we  her  niayr.' 

And  that  place  being  thus  left  safe,  started  with  his 
company  of  300  and  made  in  hot  haste  for  Glasgow. 
They  pushed  on  so  fast  that  they  by 

*  Glaskow  bryg  that  bj'gijyt  was  off  tree, 

Weyll  passit  our  or  Sotheroun  mycht  thaim  se.' 

After  crossing  the  bridge  Wallace  divided  his  followers 
into  two  bodies,  one  of  which,  led  by  himself,  marched 
by  the  High  Street ;  while  the  other,  under  the  Laii'd 
of  Auchinleck,  'for  he  the  passage  kend,'  went  by  St 
Mungo's  Lane  and  the  Drygate.  Percy  had  a  force  of 
1000  men,  and  with  these  between  Bell  o'  the  Brae  and 
the  site  of  the  old  university  he  met  the  body  under 
Wallace.  While  the  battle  was  doubtful  the  other 
body  came  rushing  on  from  the  Drygate,  Percy  being 
cut  down  by  Wallace  himself.  The  English  were  seized 
with  a  panic,  and  fled  in  all  directions,  notwithstanding 
that  they  were  '  gud  men  off  wer  '  like  '  all  Northum- 
myrland. ' 

The  three  bishops  who  held  the  see  from  1317  to 
1336  need  merely  a  passing  mention,  but  the  next 
bishop,  William  Kae,  who  held  ofSce  from  1837  to  1367, 
has  the  honour  of  having  erected  the  first  bridge  of 
Glasgow.  From  Blind  Harry's  account  of  the  Battle  of 
Bell  o'  the  Brae,  it  would  seem  that  there  was  a  wooden 
bridge  across  the  river  ;  but  this  Bishop  Rae  was  able, 
notwithstanding  the  impoverished  condition  of  the  dio- 
cese, between  1345  and  1350,  to  replace  by  a  stone 
bridge  of  eight  arches,  which,  though  only  12  feet  vdie, 
was  long  looked  on  as  a  marvel  of  architectural  skill. 
A  pious  lady  of  the  family  of  Lochow,  who  had  some 
property  in  the  burgh,  bore  the  expense  of  one  arch, 
and  besides  erected  a  leper's  hospital,  afterwards  known 
as  St  Ninian's  Hospital,  in  the  Gorbals  district.  The 
bridge,  known  as  StockweE  Bridge,  remained  till  1777, 
when  it  was  repaired  and  widened  to  22  feet,  and  it  was 
again  repaired  in  1821,  but  it  had  become  so  shaky  and 
unsuitable  that  in  1845  it  was  condemned,  and  in  1847 
was  replaced  by  Victoria  Bridge.  The  bishop  who  suc- 
ceeded Rae  was  Walter  Wardlaw,  who  died  in  1387.  He 
was  followed  by  Matthew  Glendinning,  in  whose  time 
the  wooden  spire  of  the  cathedral  was  struck  by  light- 
ning and  destroyed.  He  made  preparations  for  the 
erection  of  a  new  stone  spire,  but  died  before  anything 
was  done.  He  died  in  1408,  and  left  the  carrying  out 
of  the  work  to  the  new  bishop,  William  Lauder.  The 
spire,  as  then  constructed  up  to  the  first  battlement, 
still  remains,  and  forms  a  magnificent  and  fitting  monu- 
ment of  the  taste  and  skill  with  which  it  was  designed 
and  carried  out.  Lauder  also  laid  the  foundation  of  the 
chapter-house.  He  died  in  1425,  and  was  succeeded 
by  Bishop  John  Cameron  (supposed  to  be  of  the  family 


GLASGOW 

of  Lochiel),  then  Provost  of  Lincluden  and  secretary 
to  the  King.  On  his  appointment  to  the  bishopric 
he  was  promoted  to  the  chancellorship,  which  he  held 
till  1440.  His  generosity  and  large  expenditure  in 
connection  with  his  see  won  for  him  the  title  of 
'the  Magnificent,'  and  he  seems  to  have  deserved  it, 
though,  according  to  Pitscottie,  he  was  by  no  means 
an  amiable  man ;  for  by  this  writer  the  bishop  is 
described  as  '  the  principal  ruler  of  the  prince  and 
court  to  all  mischief  and  innocent  slaughter  done 
in  thir  troublous  times.  .  .  .  For  he  counselled 
them  to  exercise  all  such  scaithing  and  oppression  upon 
the  realm  as  he  had  done  himself  upon  the  poor  tenants 
of  Glasgow. '  He  resumed  the  building  of  the  chapter- 
house, and  either  extended  or  completed  various  other 
portions  of  the  cathedral  (including  the  spire),  as  may 
be  seen  by  the  carvings  of  his  arms  still  existing  on 
several  portions  of  the  structure.  Cameron  also  built 
the  '  great  tower '  of  the  bishop's  palace  in  Glasgow. 
During  his  incumbency  the  episcopal  see  was  in  the 
zenith  of  its  temporal  glory  and  power.  The  preben- 
daries, originally  seven,  now  numbered  thirty-two,  and 
the  revenues  were  very  large.  With  a  view  of  adding 
dignity  to  the  episcopal  court,  he  ordained  that  the 
prebendaries  should  reside  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
cathedral  church,  and  in  consequence  that  portion  of  the 
city  was  extended  and  adorned  by  their  comfortable 
mansions  and  orchards.  A  number  of  their  houses  re- 
mained in  good  condition  till  the  close  of  the  last  cen- 
tury, and  a  few  even  later,  though  in  a  dingy  and  dila- 
pidated condition.  By  contemporary  writers  the  court 
of  Bishop  Cameron  is  spoken  of  as  almost  rivalling  that 
of  the  monarch  himself,  from  the  great  number  of  dig- 
nified ecclesiastics  and  noblemen  of  the  first  considera- 
tion whom  he  drew  around  him.  'He  was,'  says  Pagan, 
'  fond  of  celebrating  the  great  festivals  of  the  Chm-ch, 
and  on  these  occasions  he  entered  the  choir  through  the 
nave  by  the  great  western  door  (recently  opened  up), 
preceded  by  many  high  officials,  one  of  wliom  bore  his 
silver  crozier  or  pastoral  stalT,  and  the  others  carried 
costly  maces  and  other  emblems.  These  were  followed 
by  the  members  of  the  chapter,  and  the  procession 
moved  on  amidst  the  ringing  of  bells,  the  pealing  of  the 
great  organ,  and  the  vocal  swell  of  the  choristers,  who  were 
gorgeously  arrayed  in  vestments  of  high  price ;  the  Te 
Deum  was  then  sung  and  high  mass  celebrated.  On  certain 
highly  solemn  occasions  it  pleased  the  prelate  to  cause  the 
holy  relics  belonging  to  the  church  to  be  exhibited  for 
the  edification  of  the  faithful.  These,  according  to  the 
chartulary,  principally  consisted  of  the  following  objects 
of  veneration  : — (1st),  The  image  of  our  Saviour  in  gold ; 
(2d),  the  images  of  the  twelve  apostles  in  silver;  (3d),  a 
silver  cross,  adorned  mth  precious  stones  and  a  small 
piece  of  wood  of  the  cross  of  our  Saviour ;  (4th),  another 
cross  of  smaller  dimensions,  adorned  with  precious  stones ; 
(5th),  one  silver  casket,  gilt,  containing  some  of  the  hairs 
of  the  blessed  Virgin  ;  (6th),  in  a  square  silver  coffer, 
part  of  the  scourges  of  St  Kentigern  and  St  Thomas  of 
Canterbury,  and  part  of  the  hair  garment  made  use  of 
by  St  Kentigern  our  patron ;  (7th),  in  another  silver 
casket,  gilded,  part  of  St  Bartholomew  the  Apostle ; 
(8th),  in  a  silver  casket,  gilded,  a  bone  of  St  Ninian ; 
(9th),  in  another  silver  casket,  gilded,  part  of  the  girdle 
of  the  blessed  Virgin  JIary ;  (10th),  in  a  crystal  case  a 
bone  of  some  unknown  saint,  and  of  St  Magdalene ; 
(11th),  in  a  small  phial  of  crystal  part  of  the  milk  of  the 
blessed  Virgin  Mary,  and  part  of  the  manger  of  our 
Lord  ;  (12th),  in  a  small  phial  a  liquor  of  the  colour  of 
saffron,  which  flowed  of  old  from  the  tomb  of  St  Kenti- 
gern ;  (13th),  one  other  silver  phial  with  some  bones  of 
St  Eugene  and  St  Blaze  ;  (14th),  in  another  silver  phial 
part  of  the  tomb  of  St  Catherine  the  Virgin  ;  (loth), 
one  small  hide,  with  a  part  of  St  Martin's  cloak ;  (16th), 
one  precious  hide  with  a  part  of  the  bones  of  St  Kenti- 
gern and  St  Thomas  of  Canterbury ;  (17th),  four  other 
hides  with  bones  of  saints  and  other  relics ;  (18th),  a 
wooden  chest  with  many  small  relics  ;  (19th),  two  linen 
bags  with  the  bones  of  St  Kentigern  and  St  'Thenew  and 
other  deceased  saints.     Indeed  the  paraphernalia  of  the 

101 


vpV'A/. 


''3]    Z. 


GLASGOW 

see  had  about  this  time  extended  so  greatly  that  a  new 
officer  was  appointed  as  keeper  of  the  church  vestments 
and  furniture  treasured  within  the  "  Gemma  doors  "  en- 
tering the  choir.'  Cameron  died  on  Christmas  Eve 
1446  at  Lochwood,  a  rural  retreat  belonging  to  the 
bishops  in  the  parish  of  Old  Monkland,  about  six  miles 
sastward  of  Glasgow.  A  number  of  the  older  writers 
Hint  that  his  magnificence  was  carried  out  by  money 
extorted  in  cruel  fashion  from  his  people.  Pitscottie's 
opinion  of  him  has  been  already  referred  to,  and 
Buchanan  and  Spottiswoode  both  speak  of  his  death  as 
fearful.  Pitscottie  describes  minutely,  how,  '  on  Yule- 
even,  when  he  was  sleeping,  there  came  a  thunder  and 
a  voice  out  of  heaven  crying  "and  summoning  him  to 
the  extreme  judgment  of  God,  where  he  should  give 
an  account  and  reckoning  of  all  his  cruel  offences  with- 
out further  delay."  Through  this  he  wakened  forth  of 
his  sleep,  and  took  fear  of  the  novelty  of  such  things 
unkno-\A-n  to  him  before  ;  but  yet  he  believed  this  to  be 
no  other  but  a  dream,  and  no  true  warning  for  amend- 
ment of  his  cursed  life  ;  yet  he  called  for  his  chamber- 
chiels,  and  caused  them  to  light  candles  and  to  remain 
a  while  beside  him  till  he  recovered  the  fear  and 
di-eadour  that  he  had  taken  in  his  sleep  and  dreaming. 
But  by  he  had  taken  a  book  and  read  a  little  while  the 
same  voice  and  words  were  heard  ■with  no  less  fear  and 
dreadour  than  was  before,  which  made  them  that  were 
present  at  that  time  about  him  to  be  in  dread,  so  that 
none  of  them  had  a  word  to  speak  to  another,  think- 
ing no  less  than  sudden  mischief  hastily  to  befal  them 
all ;  and,  from  hand,  the  third  time,  the  same  words 
were  more  ugsomely  cried  than  before.  This  bishop 
rendered  his  spirit  hastily  at  the  pleasure  of  God,  and 
shot  out  his  tongue  most  wildly  as  he  had  been  hanged 
upon  a  gallows.  A  terrible  sight  to  all  cruel  oppressors 
and  murderers  of  the  poor. ' 

To  Cameron  succeeded  William  TurnbuU,  archdeacon 
of  St  Andrews  and  keeper  of  the  privy  seal,  whose  name 
will  ever  be  held  in  honoured  remembrance  as  the 
founder  of  the  University  of  Glasgow.  King  James  II. 
seems  to  have  been  the  prime  mover  in  the  matter,  and 
at  his  instigation  a  bull  was  obtained  from  Pope  Nicholas 
V.  in  1450,  erecting  a  university  at  Glasgow  after  the 
model  of  the  university  at  Bologna,  '  Glasgow  being  a 
place  well  suited  and  adapted  to  that  purpose  on  account 
of  the  healthiness  of  the  climate,  the  abundance  of 
victuals,  and  of  every  thing  necessary  for  the  use  of 
man.'  The  university  was  opened  for  teaching  in  1451, 
and  on  20  April  1453  James  himself  granted  a  charter 
excepting  all  connected  with  the  university  save  the 
bishop,  '  from  all  tributes,  services,  exactions,  taxations, 
collections,  watchiugs,  wardings,  and  all  dues  whatever. ' 
Acting  on  this  Bishop  Turnbull  granted  to  the  members 
of  the  university  the  privilege  of  trading  within  the  city 
without  payment  of  customs,  and  also  the  power  of  juris- 
diction in  all  but  very  important  matters,  a  power 
which  was  claimed  and  exercised  even  in  serious  cases 
down  to  the  beginning  of  the  18th  century.  Passing  the 
episcopate  of  Muirhead,  Laing,  and  Carmichael,  impor- 
tant changes  took  place  in  the  time  of  Bishop  Robert 
Blackadder,  who  was  consecrated  in  1484.  In  1488,  by 
the  exertions  of  the  king,  a  bull  was  obtained  from  Pope 
Alexander  VI.,  erecting  the  see  of  Glasgow  into  an  arch- 
bishopric, and  the  erection  was  confirmed  by  Act  of 
Parliament.  Its  suffragans  were  the  Bishops  of  Dun- 
keld,  Dunblane,  Galloway,  and  Argyll.  James  IV., 
whose  piety  in  early  youth  took  an  enthusiastic  turn, 
had  become  a  canon  of  the  chapter  of  Glasgow,  and  loved 
to  show  favour  to  the  c.athedral  of  whicli  he  was  a 
member.  In  the  first  year  of  his  reign  it  was  '  concludit 
and  ordainit  be  our  soverane  lord  and  his  three  estatis 
that  for  the  honour  and  public  gild  of  the  realme  the 
sege  of  Glasgow  be  erecit  in  ane  Archbishoprick  with  sic 
previlegis  as  accordis  of  law  and  siclick  as  the  Arch- 
bishoprick of  York  has  in  aU  dignities,  emunities,  and 
previlegis,'  and  besides,  '  the  king  renewed  and  extended 
the  privileges  and  exemptions  and  much  valued  civil 
jurisdiction  of  the  bishop,  with  expressions  that  show 
both  his  attachment  to  Glasgow,  and  the  commencement 
102 


GLASGOW 

of  that  high  character  of  its  chapter,  which  afterwards 
drew  to  the  archbishop's  court  of  Glasgow  a  gi-eat 
proportion  of  civil  business. '  Blackadder  was  the  last 
of  the  prelates  who  lent  a  kindly  hand  to  the  extension 
and  adornment  of  the  cathedral,  which  had  now  been 
more  than  370  years  in  existence  since  its  foundation  by 
Bishop  John.  'He  founded,'  says  M'Ure,  'several 
altarages  in  the  choir,  and  caused  place  his  arms  above 
them  in  the  roof  of  the  lower  area,  illuminate  in 
a  small  escutcheon,  three  einquefoils  on  a  bend  with- 
out either  a  mytre  or  a  crosier,  and  above  it  in  large 
capital  letters  Eolertiis  ArcMcpiscopiis.  He  raised  the 
ascents  on  each  side  of  the  church  by  steps  from  the 
nave  to  the  floor  of  fine  work,  with  effigies,  as  I  take  it, 
of  the  apostles,  neatly  engraved ;  and  in  the  descent, 
on  both  sides,  you  will  see  the  archbishop's  arms,  in 
several  places  at  large,  with  his  mytre  and  other  ponti- 
ficalia with  the  initials  of  his  name.  He  likewise 
founded  the  great  isle  to  the  south  of  the  church,  of  curi- 
ous work,  corresponding  to  the  other  parts  of  this  most 
magnificent  structure.'  Though  this  southern  aisle, 
kno^vn  as  Blackadder's  crypt,  remains  unfinished,  enough 
has  been  done  to  show  the  rudiments  of  a  beautiful 
design.  He  is  also  believed  to  have  erected  the  organ 
screen.  According  to  Leslie  the  archbishop  undertook 
a  pilgrimage  to  the  Holy  Sepulchre  in  his  old  age,  and 
died  on  28  July  1508  when  almost  in  sight  of  the 
Syi-ian  shore. 

Blackadder  was  succeeded  by  James  Beaton,  who  in  1524 
was  translated  to  St  Andrews,  and  was  followed  by  Gavin 
Dunbar,  tutor  to  King  James  V. ,  who  was  consecrated  in 
1525.  The  spread  of  new  doctrines  had  begun  to  show 
itself  in  Blackadder's  time,  for  we  find  that,  in  1503, 
thu'ty  persons  from  the  districts  of  Kyle  and  Cunning- 
hame  were  tried  in  the  chapter-house  of  the  cathedral 
on  a  charge  of  heresy,  but  were  dismissed,  'with  an 
admonition  to  take  heed  of  new  doctrines,  and  content 
themselves  with  the  faith  of  the  Church.'  By  the  time 
of  Dunbar,  however,  matters  had  gone  farther,  and  the 
infallibility  of  the  Chm-ch,  the  purity  of  the  Romish 
faith,  and  the  morals  and  precepts  of  the  clergy  began 
to  be  freely  and  boldly  questioned.  In  the  attempt  to 
suppress  these  doctrines  which  caused  the  clergy  to 
tremble,  many  pious  persons  suffered  death  at  St 
Andrews  and  Edinburgh  ;  and  to  such  an  extent  had 
such  heresies  spread  in  the  West — then,  as  ever  after, 
a  stronghold  of  the  reformed  doctrine — that  it  was  at 
last  deemed  necessary  to  make  an  example  in  Glasgow, 
in  order  to  intimidate  the  heretics,  but  the  very  means 
which  were  intended  to  crush  the  Reformation,  namely, 
the  martyrdom  of  Russel  and  Kennedy,  greatly  aided  its 
progress  in  the  West  of  Scotland.  Dunbar,  a  man  of 
kindly  disposition  and  of  sufficient  good  sense  to  know 
that  the  spirit  of  inquiry  was  not  to  be  stilled,  nor  con- 
scientious belief  changed,  by  lacerating  the  flesh,  recom- 
mended moderate  measures  ;  but  the  high  powers  of  the 
Church  thought  otherwise,  and  accordingly,  in  1538,  a 
deputation,  consisting  of  John  Lawder,  Andrew  Oliphant, 
and  Friar  Maltman,  was  sent  from  Edinburgh  to  Glasgow 
to  stimulate  the  archbishop,  and  assist  in  crushing  the 
advancing  Reformation  by  the  help  of  stake  and  faggot. 
The  victims  were  Jerom  Russel,  said  to  have  been  one  of 
the  Grey  Friars  in  Glasgow,  and  noted  for  his  learning 
and  talent ;  and  John  Kennedy,  a  young  man  from  Ayr, 
not  more  than  18  years  of  age.  After  a  mock  trial  in 
which  '  Mr  Russel  reasoned  long,  and  learnedly  confuted 
his  accusers,'  they  were  handed  over — much  against  the 
will  of  Dunbar,  who  affirmed  '  that  these  rigorous  pro- 
ceedings did  hurt  the  cause  of  the  Church  more  than  in 
his  opinion  could  be  well  thought  of — to  the  secular 
power  for  execution,  and  suffered  martyrdom  at  a  stake 
which  had  been  erected  near  the  E  end  of  the  cathedraL 
These  were  the  only  martyrs  who  suffered  at  Glasgow 
during  the  progress  of  the  Reformation.  Though  gentle 
in  spirit,  Dunbar  seems  yet  to  have  been  tinctured  with 
some  of  the  bigotry  of  his  order,  for,  when  in  March 
1542  Lord  Maxwell  brought  into  the  Scottish  Parliament 
a  biU  for  the  purpose  of  authorising  the  reading  of  tlie 
Bible  in  the  vulgar  tongue,  he  led  the  opposition,  and 


GLASGOW 

when  to  tlie  credit  of  the  legislature  the  bill  passed  he 
protested  '  for  himself  and  in  name  and  behalf  of  all  ye 
prelatis  of  yis  realme,'  and  '  dissassentit  thereto  simple  ; 
and  opponit  yame  yairto  unto  ye  tyme  yat  ane  provin- 
cial! counsell  myt  be  had  of  all  ye  clerge  of  yis  realme, 
to  avyss  and  conclude  yairupon.'  He  died  in  1547,  and 
was  buried  in  the  choir  of  the  cathedral  in  a  stately  tomb 
which  he  had  caused  to  be  built  for  himself,  but  which 
was  entirely  swept  away  when  the  Reformers  obtained 
the  mastery,  and  when  the  cathedral  itself  so  narrowly 
escaped  the  fate  of  the  other  beautiful  ecclesiastical 
structures,  which  for  ages  had  adorned  the  kingdom. 

In  the  midst  of  the  civil  and  'ecclesiastical  turmoil 
that  then  disturbed  the  kingdom,  it  was  some  time  be- 
fore the  vacant  office  of  archbishop  was  filled  up,  but  at 
last  James  Beaton,  nephew  of  the  cardinal,  was  conse- 
crated at  Rome  in  1541.  With  this  prelate  came  the 
crisis  and  the  close.  He  was  the  last  of  the  long  line  of 
spiritual  princes  who  had  held  sway  in  Glasgow  for  so 
many  centuries.  The  Reformation  had  now  acquired 
an  irresistible  momentum,  of  which  the  archbishop 
speedily  became  fully  conscious.  He  accordingly  re- 
moved into  the  castle  or  palace  all  the  portable  valuables 
which  the  church  contained,  and  summoned  around 
him  the  gentlemen  of  the  neighbourhood  stUl  attached 
to  the  old  doctrines,  who,  by  means  of  their  servants 
and  adherents,  guarded  the  church  and  palace  from  any 
sudden  onslaught  on  the  part  of  the  Reformers.  As 
the  Lennox  family,  who  had  long  been  strong  supporters 
of  the  diocese,  had  gone  over  to  the  Protestants,  he 
entered  into  an  agreement  in  1558  with  'James  duke 
of  Chatelrault,  erle  of  Arran,  lord  HamUtoune '  to  de- 
fend him  and  all  the  cathedral  possessions  '  againis 
quhatsomever  person  or  personis  within  yis  realme,  ex- 
cept ye  queans  grace,  prince  or  Kingis  grace,'  which  bond 
the  Duke  did  not  long  keep,  for  in  the  following  year  he 
passed  over  to  the  side  of  the  Reformers,  and  not  only 
caused  'all  the  images,  altars,  and  relics  within  the 
church  to  be  destroyed,  but  he  also  attacked  and  took 
possession  of  the  palace  of  the  archbishop,  from  which 
he  was  with  difficulty  expelled  by  a  body  of  the  Queen- 
Regent's  French  troops.  It  is  believed  that  at  this 
time  the  leaden  roofing  was  stripped  from  the  cathedral. ' 
The  defection  of  the  Duke  of  Chatelherault  seems  to  have 
convinced  Beaton  that  further  struggle  was  hopeless, 
and  he  quietly  retired  from  the  contest,  and  passed  into 
France  in  1560  escorted  by  some  troops  of  that  nation, 
probably  those  who  had  assisted  in  the  expulsion  of 
the  Duke.  The  archbishoj^  carried  with  him  all  the 
treasures  and  costly  ornaments,  chalices,  and  images  of 
gold  and  silver,  including  the  relics  and  their  cases 
formerly  mentioned,  and  what  is  of  much  greater  im- 
portance, from  a  modern  point  of  view,  he  also  carried 
away  all  the  valuable  records  of  the  see  from  the  earliest 
period  to  his  own  time.  These  he  deposited  partly  in 
the  archives  of  the  Scots  C'oUege,  and  partly  in  the 
Chartreuse  at  Paris,  where,  at  the  time  of  the  French 
Revolution,  they  were,  along  with  other  valuable  MSS. , 
saved  by  the  patriotic  exertions  of  Abbe  Macpherson, 
one  of  the  members  of  the  college,  and  transmitted  to 
Scotland.  In  1843  they  were  arranged  and  printed 
under  the  superintendence  of  Mr  Cosmo  Innes,  for 
the  Bannatyne  Club,  at  the  expense  of  the  late  Mr 
Ewing  of  Strathleven.  Long  previous,  however,  to 
that  date  authenticated  and  notarial  transcripts  of  the 
chartulary  and  other  documents  had  been  procured  by 
the  University  of  Glasgow  (in  1738  and  subsequent 
years) ;  and  the  Magistrates  of  Glasgow,  in  1739,  ob- 
tained authenticated  copies  of  the  writs  that  were 
considered  of  most  importance  to  the  city.  When 
the  archbishop  settled  in  France  he  was  constituted 
ambassador  to  that  court  from  his  sovereign  the  unfor- 
tunate Mary,  whom  he  served  with  unshaken  fidelity 
throughout  her  chequered  career  and  tUl  her  death 
at  Fotheringay.  Her  son,  James  VI.,  respecting  his 
fidelity,  employed  him  and  obtained  for  him,  by  special 
act  of  parliament  in  1600,  the  restoration  of  the  tem- 
poralities of  the  see  which  he  had  abandoned,  '  notwith- 
standing,' as  the  act  says,  '  that  he  hes  never  maid  con- 


GLASGOW 

fession  of  his  faith,  and  hes  never  acknowledgeit  the  re- 
ligion profest  within  this  realme.'  His  closing  days 
were,  therefore,  affluent  and  easy,  and  he  died  on  24 
April  1603,  at  the  advanced  age  of  86.  By  his  will  he 
ordained  that  the  archives  and  relics  of  the  cathedral, 
which  he  had  carried  away,  should  be  restored  to 
Glasgow  so  soon  as  the  inhabitants  should  return  to  the 
communion  of  the  Church  of  Rome— '  Which,'  says 
M'Ure,  '  I  hope  in  God  shall  never  be,  but  that  His 
Church  is  so  established  here  that  neither  the  gates  of 
Rome  or  hell  shall  ever  be  able  to  prevail  against  it.' 
In  its  prime  the  see  of  Glasgow  was  endowed  with 
magnificent  temporal  possessions  which  fully  warranted 
its  title  of  the  '  Spiritual  Dukedom,'  and  at  its  final 
overthrow  it  may  be  fairly  assumed  that  the  anticipated 
scramble  for  the  fair  domains  of  the  ancient  church 
quickened  the  conversion  of  many  of  the  Scottish  nobles 
to  the  doctrines  of  the  Reformation.  The  archbishops 
held  the  lordships  of  the  royalty  and  baronies  of  Glas- 
gow, and,  besides,  of  18  baronies  of  lands  within  the 
sherifl'doms  of  Lanark,  Dumbarton,  Ayr,  Renfrew, 
Peebles,  Selkirk,  Roxburgh,  Dumfries,  and  the  stewartry 
of  Kirkcudbright.  'It  is  impossible,'  says  Cosmo 
Innes,  '  for  a  student  of  ecclesiastical  antic[uities  not  to 
look  back  with  fond  regret  to  the  lordly  and  ruined 
church  which  we  have  traced  from  its  cradle  to  its 
grave,  not  stopping  to  question  its  doctrines,  and  throw- 
ing into  a  friendly  shade  its  errors  of  practice.  And 
yet  if  we  consider  it  more  deeply  we  :nay  be  satisfied  that 
the  gorgeous  fabric  fell  not  till  it  had  completed  its  work 
and  was  no  longer  useful.  Institutions,  like  mortal 
bodies,  die,  and  are  reproduced.  Nations  pass  away, 
and  the  worthy  live  again  in  their  colonies.  .  .  . 
In  this  view  it  was  not  unworthy  of  that  splendid 
hierarchy,  which  arose  out  of  the  humble  family  of  St 
Kentigern,  to  have  given  life  and  vigour  to  such  a  city 
as  Glasgow,  and  a  school  of  learning  like  her  Univer- 
sity.' 

During  the  alternate  rule  of  Episcopacy  and  Presby- 
terianism  there  were  15  Protestant  archbishops,  but, 
compared  with  their  predecessors,  they  are  by  no  means 
important.  They  and  their  doctrines  were  alien  to  the 
genius  of  the  people  among  whom  they  were  placed,  and 
though  some  of  them,  like  the  amiable  and  virtuous 
Leighton  (1670-74),  were  able  and  excellent  men,  others 
(numbered  among  the  '  Tulchans  ')  '  were  the  mere 
nominees  of  noble  lay  patrons,  with  whom,  by  a 
Simoniacal  arrangement,  they  divided  the  temporalities 
of  the  see.  None  of  them  did  anything  to  extend  or 
beautify  the  cathedral  which  had  so  happily  and  mira- 
culously survived  the  storms  of  the  Reformation.  Pos- 
sibly little  blame  is  attachable  to  the  Protestant  prelates 
for  this  seeming  remissness.  Their  means  were  limited, 
and  they  might  foresee  that  the  decorations  put  up 
during  an  episcopalian  reign  would  be  shorn  off  when 
the  Presbyterians  came  to  rule  the  house.  .  .  .  Only 
two  of  the  prelates  put  their  hands  to  the  fabric  of  the 
cathedral.  Archbishop  Spottiswood,  the  eminent  church 
historian,  commenced  to  renew  the  roof  which  had  been 
stripped  of  its  lead  during  the  Reformation  troubles, 
and  had  only  been  imperfectly  repaired  afterwards,  and 
this  work  was  completed  after  Spottiswood's  translation 
to  the  Primacy  of  St  Andrews  in  1615.' 

During  the  civil  and  religious  troubles  of  the  time  of 
Queen  Mary  and  the  early  years  of  King  James  VI. , 
Glasgow  was  concerned  in  some  of  the  numerous  con- 
flicts that  were  then  so  common  all  over  the  country. 
The  most  important  were  the  '  Battle  of  the  Butts '  and 
the  Battle  of  Langside.  During  the  minority  of  Queen 
Mary,  James  Hamilton,  Earl  of  Arran,  then  heir-pre- 
sumptive to  the  throne,  and  the  ancestor  of  the  ducal 
house  of  Hamilton,  was  appointed  regent  of  the  kingdom, 
but  his  appointment  was  strongly  repugnant  to  the  Earl 
of  Lennox  and  the  Queen-Dowager,  and  the  hostile  feel- 
ing at  last  became  so  strong  that  both  parties  resorted  to 
arms.  In  1544  Lennox  garrisoned  the  bishop's  palace 
in  Glasgow,  and  retired  himself  to  the  stronghold  of 
Dumbarton,  and  the  Regent,  having  gathered  together  a 
numerous  army  at  Stirling,  marched  to  Glasgow  and  be- 

103 


GLASGOW 

sieged  the  palace  or  castle  with  the  aid  of  cannon. 
After  the  siege  had  lasted  for  ten  days,  the  garrison 
agreed  to  surrender  on  condition  of  receiving  quarter  ; 
but  no  sooner  had  they  laid  down  their  arms  than  aU 
were  massacred,  with  the  exception  of  two  only  who  es- 
caped. Lennox  determined  to  revenge  this  treachery 
and  their  loss  by  striking  a  desperate  blow,  and,  having 
associated  with  himself  the  Earl  of  Glencaim,  at  first 
determined  to  march  into  Clydesdale,  and  there  desolate 
the  lands  of  the  Hamiltons  by  fire  and  sword.  The 
Eegent,  however,  was  timeously  apprised  of  the  scheme, 
and  resolved  to  counteract  it  by  taking  possession  of 
Glasgow.  Glencaim  was,  however,  beforehand  with 
him,  and  when  Arran  approached,  the  other  had  his 
forces  already  drawn  out,  amounting  to  800  men,  partly 
composed  of  his  own  vassals,  and  partly  of  the  citizens 
of  Glasgow.  The  armies  met  at  the  'Butts,' the  place 
where  the  '  weaponshaw '  exercises  were  held,  and  now 
the  site  of  the  old  infantry  barracks.  The  onset  of 
Glencairn  was  so  furious  that  he  beat  back  the  first  rank 
upon  the  second  and  captured  the  Regent's  cannon,  but, 
in  the  heat  of  the  battle,  while  victory  yet  wavered, 
Eobert  Boyd,  of  the  Kilmarnock  family,  suddenly 
arrived  with  a  small  party  of  horse  and  turned  the 
scale  in  Hamilton's  favour,  for  Glencairn's  men,  think- 
ing that  a  new  army  had  come  against  them,  fied 
with  great  precipitation.  Considering  the  comparatively 
small  numbers  engaged  on  both  sides,  the  conflict  must 
have  been  unusually  sanguinary,  for  it  is  recorded  that 
300  men  were  slain  or  wounded  on  both  sides,  one  of 
Glencairn's  sons  being  among  the  slain.  '  The  Regent 
immediately  entered  the  city,  and  in  revenge  for  the 
part  the  citizens  had  acted,  gave  the  place  up  to  plunder  ; 
and  so  completely  was  it  harried  that  the  very  doors 
and  windows  of  many  dwelling-houses  were  carried  away, 
in  fact  they  only  spared  the  city  in  so  far  as  they  did 
not  commit  it  to  the  flames. ' 

Glasgow  is  also  closely  connected  with  the  decisive 
event  of  the  times — the  Battle  of  Langside,  1-3  May 
1568 — which,  though  it  'lasted  but  for  three-fourths 
of  an  hour,'  and  was,  from  'the  number  engaged  and 
the  nature  of  the  contest,'  more  of  the  character  of  a 
skirmish  than  anything  else,  was  yet,  from  the  con- 
ditions under  which  it  was  fought,  of  a  most  decisive 
character,  settling  the  fate  of  Scotland,  aff'ecting  the 
future  of  England,  and  exerting  an  influence  all  over 
Europe.  The  Eegent  Hurray  was  holding  a  court  of 
Glasgow  in  the  city  when  the  startling  intelligence 
reached  him  of  the  Queen's  escape  from  Loohleven  and 
of  the  assembling  of  her  friends  at  Hamilton.  '  The 
news  whereof  being  brought  to  Glasgow  (which  is  only 
8  miles  distant),  it  was  scarce  at  first  believed ;  but 
within  two  hours  or  less,  being  assured,  a  strong  altera- 
tion might  have  been  observed  in  the  minds  of  those 
who  were  attending.  The  reports  of  the  Queen's  forces 
made  divers  slide  away  ;  others  sent  quietly  to  beg 
pardon  for  what  they  had  done,  resolving  not  to  enter 
in  the  cause  farther,  but  to  govern  themselves  as  the 
event  should  lead  and  direct  them  ;  and  there  were  not 
a  few  who  made  open  desertion,  and  not  of  the  meaner 
sort,  amongst  whom  my  Lord  Boyd  was  specially  noted, 
and  in  the  mouths  of  all  men  ;  for  that  being  very  in- 
ward with  the  Regent,  and  admitted  to  his  most  secret 
counsels,  when  he  saw  matters  like  to  turn  he  withdrew 
himself  and  went  to  the  Queen.'  Though  Murray  was 
surprised  by  the  rapid  and  unexpected  course  of  events, 
which  had  not  only  rescued  Mary  from  a  prison  but 
placed  her  at  the  head  of  an  army,  he  was  not  dis- 
mayed ;  and  having  gained  a  breathing  time  by  listen- 
ing to  overtures  of  accommodation  from  the  Queen's 
party,  he  in  the  meantime  sent  word  to  his  own  friends 
and  those  of  the  young  King,  and  was  joined  by  the 
Earls  of  Glencairn,  Montrose,  Mar,  and  Monteith,  the 
Lords  Semple,  Home,  and  Lindsay,  by  Kirkaldy  of 
Grange,  a  soldier  of  great  ability  and  skill,  and  many 
other  gentlemen,  in  addition  to  a  large  body  of  the 
citizens  of  Glasgow,  which  placed  him  at  the  head  of  an 
army  of  upwards  of  4000  men.  With  this  force  he 
encamped  on  the  Burgh  Muir  (which  extended  along 
104 


GLASGOW 

the  E  from  the  Green  by  Borrowfield  towards  the  cathe- 
dral), and  there  awaited  the  approach  of  the  Queen's 
forces,  as  it  was  believed  that  her  followers  intended  to 
place  her  Majesty  in  safety  in  the  strong  fortress  of 
Dumbarton,  which  was  then  held  by  Lord  Fleming. 
This  was  her  own  desire,  as,  once  there,  she  hoped  '  to 
regain  by  degi'ees  her  influence  over  her  nobility  and 
her  people.'  Murray  was  tlius  in  a  favourable  position 
for  intercepting  the  Queen's  troops  had  they  proceeded 
towards  Dumbarton  by  the  N  bank  of  the  Clyde  ;  but 
news  came  that  the  royalists  were  marching  W  by  the 
S  bank  of  the  river,  intending  to  cross  at  Renfrew, 
and  so  reach  the  castle.  Both  sides  were  keenly 
alive  to  the  importance  of  occupying  Langside  HiU, 
an  eminence  IJ  mUe  S  of  Glasgow,  and  directly  on 
the  line  of  Mary's  march  from  Rutherglen ;  but  whUe 
Murray  promptly  moved  forward,  his  cavalry  being 
sent  across  the  Clyde  by  a  ford  (each  horseman  with 
a  foot  soldier  behind  him),  and  his  infantry  following 
by  the  bridge,  the  Queen's  forces  were  delayed  by  the 
illness  of  their  chief  commander,  the  Earl  of  Argyll ; 
and  when,  therefore,  they  reached  Langside,  they  found 
it  already  occupied  by  the  Regent's  cavalry  and  the 
hagbutters  they  had  carried  with  them,  who,  disposed 
among  the  houses  and  along  the  hedges,  poured  a  heavy 
iire  into  the  Queen's  troops  as  they  advanced.  The 
vanguard,  however,  confident  in  their  numbers,  pressed 
on,  but  were  exhausted  by  the  time  they  reached  the 
top  of  the  hill,  and  so  but  little  fit  to  cope  with  Mm-ray's 
first  line  which  there  awaited  them,  and  which  was  com- 
posed of  excellent  pikemen.  Notwithstanding  this,  the 
fighting  was  severe,  '  and  Sir  James  MelvU  [of  HalhUl, 
who  was  present,  and  from  whose  account  of  the  battle 
all  subsequent  accounts  have  been  derived]  describes 
the  long  pikes  as  so  closely  crossed  and  interlaced,  that 
when  the  soldiers  behind  discharged  their  pistols,  and 
threw  them  or  the  staves  of  their  shattered  weapons  in 
the  faces  of  their  enemies,  they  never  reached  the  ground, 
but  remained  lying  on  the  spears.'  The  battle  was 
wavering,  and  Murra}''s  right  wing  beginning  to  give 
way,  when  Kirkaldy  at  the  critical  moment  brought  up 
the  reserves,  and  such  was  the  impetuosity  of  tlie  new 
attack  that  the  Queen's  forces  gave  way,  and  the  flight 
immediately  became  general.  Three  hundred  of  her 
followers  perished,  while  the  Regent's  loss  is  set  down 
as  one  man.  On  seeing  the  rout  of  her  army,  Mary, 
who  had  been  watching  the  conflict  from  a  hill  near 
Cathcart  House,  about  IJ  mile  in  the  rear,  fled  in  such 
a  state  of  terror  that  she  never  stopped  till  she  reached 
Sanquhar,  60  miles  from  the  field  of  battle,  thence  going 
on  to  Terregles,  and  thence  crossing  over  to  England. 
The  Eegent  'returned  in  great  pomp  to  the  city, 
where,  after  going  to  church  and  thanking  Almighty 
God  in  a  solemn  manner  for  the  victory,  he  was  enter- 
tained by  the  magistrates  and  a  great  many  of  the  town 
council  very  splendidly,  suitable  to  his  quality,  at 
which  time  the  Regent  expressed  himself  very  affec- 
tionately towards  the  city  and  citizens  of  Glasgow  ;  and 
for  theii'  kind  offices  and  assistance  done  to  him  and  his 
army,  he  promised  to  grant  to  the  magistrates  or  any 
incorporation  in  the  city  any  favour  they  should  rea- 
sonably demand.'  Several  requests  were  in  consequence 
made  and  granted  to  the  incorporations.  The  deacon 
of  the  incorporation  of  bakers  was  at  the  time  Matthew 
Fauside,  and  he,  being  '  a  very  judicious  and  projecting 
man,  who  had  an  extraordinary  concern  for  the  good 
and  advancement  of  the  incorporations,' took  occasion 
to  say  that,  as  the  mills  at  Partick,  which  were  formerly 
the  property  of  the  archbishop,  now  belonged  to  the 
crown,  and  the  tacksman  exacted  such  exorbitant  mul- 
tures that  it  raised  the  price  of  bread  to  the  community, 
a  grant  of  these  mills  to  the  corporation  would  be  re- 
garded as  a  public  benefit ;  and,  moreover,  the  bakers 
were  not  altogether  undeserving  of  favour  in  another 
respect,  as  they  had  liberally  supplied  the  army  with 
bread  while  it  remained  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Glas- 
gow. Fauside's  well-timed  address  had  the  desired 
effect,  and  the  five  flour-mills  at  Partick,  on  the  hanks 
of  the  Kelvin,   are  possessed  by  the  incorporation  of 


GLASGOW 

bakers  till  tLis  day.  The  citizens  have,  however,  never 
been  able  to  discover  that  in  virtue  of  this  gift  bread  is 
to  be  had  cheaper  in  Glasgow  than  elsewhere. 

In  May  1570  the  Hamiltons,  with  others  of  the 
Queen's  supporters,  had  again  mustered  sufficient  force 
to  attack  the  castle  or  bishop's  palace  at  Glasgow,  which 
was  now  held  for  the  Earl  of  Lennox,  who  had  become 
Kegent  after  the  murder  of  Murray  at  Linlithgow  by 
Hamilton  of  Bothwellhaugh.  They  first  attempted  a 
surprise,  and  when  that  failed  they  opened  fire  with 
cannon  to  make  a  breach,  so  that  the  position  might  be 
stormed.  The  garrison,  though  it  numbered  only 
twenty-four,  and  had  no  head,  as  the  governor  was 
absent,  held  out  so  bravely,  however,  that  the  be- 
siegers failed,  and,  after  losing  a  number  of  men,  were 
forced  to  retire.  Probably  they  had  not  much  heart 
left,  and  they  may  besides  have  been  alarmed  by  the 
approach  of  the  troops  sent  to  avenge  the  murder  of 
Murray  on  the  Hamiltons.  These,  under  Lennox  and 
Sir  AViUiam  Drury,  reached  Glasgow  two  or  three  days 
after  the  attack,  and  says  Tytler,  '  commenced  a  pitiless 
devastation  of  Clydesdale  and  Linlithgowshire,  razing 
their  [the  Hamiltons']  castles,  destroying  their  villages, 
and  making  a  desert  of  the  whole  territory. '  Hamilton 
Palace,  Linlithgow  and  Kinneil  Castles,  and  the  estates 
and  houses  of  the  Duke's  kindred,  were  completely 
wasted.  'In  these  daj's,' says  Pagan,  'the  citizens  of 
Glasgow  looked  upon  the  castigation  of  the  HamUtons 
with  no  small  satisfaction,  for  they  had  not  forgotten 
the  grievous  iUs  which  the  town  had  suffered  from  their 
party  at  the  Battle  of  the  "  Butts,"  and  the  remembrance 
of  their  slaughtered  kinsmen  and  plundered  homes  nerved 
many  a  stout  arm  against  the  party  of  the  Hamiltons 
and  the  Queen  at  the  field  of  Langside.' 

Up  to  the  Reformation  the  progress  and  prosperity  of 
Glasgow  had  been  solely  dependent  on  the  progress 
and  power  of  the  see,  and,  no  doubt,  to  some  extent  on 
the  personal  character  of  its  ecclesiastical  head  for  the 
time  being,  and  as  the  overthrow  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
system  thus  forms  a  great  break  in  the  history  of  the 
city,  it  may  be  well  bere  to  depart  from  strict  chrono- 
logical order  and  go  back  and  trace  the  development 
of  the  place  in  its  proper  municipal  aspect.  Mention 
has  been  already  made  of  the  privileges  granted  to 
Glasgow  when  it  was  constituted  a  burgh  of  laarony  by 
William  the  Lyon  in  or  about  1180,  and  in  1242  another 
advance  was  made,  and  the  burgesses  and  men  of  the 
bishop  became  as  free  to  trade  in  Lennox  and  Argyll  as 
the  men  of  Dumbarton.  In  1450,  in  the  time  of  Bishop 
Turnbull,  James  II.  granted  a  charter  raising  the  burgh 
to  one  of  regality,  with  all  the  increased  privileges  thereto 
belonging.  In  return  for  this  grant,  the  bishop  and  his 
successors  were  to  give  '  a  red  rose  upon  the  Feast  of 
the  Nativity  of  the  I31essed  John  the  Baptist  at  Glasgow 
in  name  of  Blanchfarm,  if  asked  only,  and  the  assistance 
of  their  prayers."  The  bishop  was  permitted  to  appoint 
a  sergeant  for  making  arrestments  and  executing  the 
edicts  of  his  court,  and  this  officer  was  to  bear  a  silver 
staff  having  the  royal  arms  blazoned  on  the  upper  end, 
and  the  arms  of  the  bishop  at  the  other.  Previous  to  the 
regality  privileges,  and  the  foundation  of  the  univer- 
sity, the  village  of  '  Deschu '  had  grown  so  that  it  reached 
from  the  cathedral  on  the  N  to  the  Blackfriars'  monas- 
tery on  the  S,  and  from  Drj-gate  on  the  E  to  near  the 
site  of  the  modern  Balmano  Street  on  the  W,  but  the 
two  changes  just  mentioned  soon  brought  considerable 
increase  in  size  to  the  place,  as  the  accommodation  was 
insufficient  for  the  200  students  who  soon  gathered,  and 
also  for  the  growing  numbers  who  flocked  into  it  in 
order  to  engage  in  trade.  One  extension,  therefore, 
took  place  southward  from  the  Blackfriars'  monastery 
to  the  cross  along  the  line  of  High  Street,  and  another 
eastward  over  the  Gallow  Muir  in  the  line  of  the  Gallow- 
gate,  while,  to  the  W,  streets  were  extended  as  far  as 
the  Tron.  The  town  was  not  waUed,  but  it  had  ports 
at  the  ends  of  the  principal  streets.  These  seem  to  have 
been  shifted  from  time  to  time.  The  Stable  Green  Port 
was  near  the  castle,  and  on  the  opposite  side  was  the 
Castle  Port,  the  site  of  which  is  now  occupied  by  part 
41 


GLASGO'V? 

of  the  Barony  Church.  There  was  a  port  '  between 
the  Gyrthoburn  and  the  street  called  the  Dregate,'  a 
port  known  as  the  Subdean  Port,  and  there  was  also 
one  at  the  E  end  of  the  Drygate,  one  at  the  Gallowgate, 
one  at  the  foot  of  the  Saltmarket,  and  others  elsewhere 
at  later  dates.  Of  the  bishop's  palace  or  castle  which 
stood  near  the  Stable  Green  Port,  not  far  from  the  western 
entrance  to  the  cathedral,  no  trace  now  remains.  The 
original  castle  was  very  old,  for  it  is  mentioned  in  1290, 
and  it  seems  to  have  been  extended  and  strengthened 
from  time  to  time.  Bishop  Cameron  is  said  to  have 
added  a  tower  to,  and  otherwise  improved,  it.  Arch- 
bishop Beaton  strengthened  it  with  a  stone  wall,  with 
a  bastion  at  one  angle,  and  a  tower  with  battlements  on 
the  angle  facing  High  Kirk  Street.  In  1515  it  must  have 
been  a  place  of  importance,  for  it  seems  to  have  been 
the  depot  for  the  King's  cannon.  When  Arran  and 
others  broke  out  in  rebellion  against  Albany's  rule,  it 
was  stormed  and  plundered  by  Mure  of  Caldwell,  but 
Albany  compelled  him  to  give  it  up.  In  1554  Archbishop 
Dunbar  added  a  stately  and  handsome  gatehouse  and  an 
arched  gateway  with  his  arms  on  it.  In  1570  the  castle 
again  underwent  a  siege  as  is  told  elsewhere,  and  after 
this  under  the  poor  Protestant  archbishops  it  seems  to 
have  begun  to  fall  into  decay.  It  was  partially  restored 
in  1611  by  Archbishop  Spottiswoode,  but  Sir  William 
Brereton,  who  was  there  in  1634,  describes  it  as  a  '  poor 
and  mean  place,'  while,  on  the  other  hand,  Ray,  whose 
notions  were  probably  not  so  high-flown,  says  it  was  '  a 
goodly  building. '  It  must,  however,  have  been  ruinous, 
for  Merer,  in  his  Sliort  Account  of  Scotland  (16S9),  speaks 
of  it  as  '  formerly  without  doubt  a  very  magnificent 
structure,  but  now  in  ruins. '  In  1720,  Robert  Thomson, 
a  merchant  in  Glasgow,  represented  to  the  Barons  of 
the  E.'cchequer  that  '  bad  men  '  were  carrying  off  stones, 
timber,  etc.,  from  the  ruins,  but  no  action  seems  to  have 
been  taken,  and  a  drawing  of  it,  made  about  1750,  shows 
part  of  it  in  a  very  ruinous  condition.  The  magistrates 
themselves  showed  their  barbarity,  for  when  the  Sara- 
cen's Head  Inn  was  erected  in  the  Gallowgate  in  1755, 
they  allowed  the  contractor  to  take  stones  from  the 
archbishop's  castle.  In  1778  part  of  it  was  again  re- 
moved to  widen  Castle  Street,  but,  judging  from  a 
drawing  made  in  1783,  the  fine  square  tower  was  almost 
entire.  The  crowning  act  of  Vandalism  of  the  long 
series  was  committed  in  1792,  when  the  last  of  the  re- 
mains of  it  were  cleared  away  to  make  room  for  the 
foundations  of  the  Royal  Infirmary. 

To  the  N,  on  the  burgh  muir  at  the  modern  St  RoUox, 
was  a  little  chapel  dedicated  to  St  Roche  the  Confessor. 
It  was  founded  about  1508  by  Thomas  Muirhead,  one  of 
the  canons  of  Glasgow.  The  burying-ground  which 
surrounded  it  was,  during  a  pestilence  in  1647,  used  for 
the  reception  of  the  infected  poor,  who  were  placed 
there  in  wooden  huts.  The  houses  of  the  canons  were 
about  the  cathedral  from  the  Stable  Green  Port  round 
by  the  Molendinar,  High  Kirk  Street,  the  Drj'gate, 
Rotten  Row,  and  Balmano  Street.  The  Drygate  con- 
tained the  mint,  which  seems  to  have  dated  at  least 
from  the  time  of  Alexander  II.,  for  coins  of  his  struck 
here  exist,  and  M'Ure  describes  some  coins  of  Robert 
III.  struck  here  as  having  a  representation  of  the  King 
crowned,  but  without  a  sceptre,  with  the  motto  Eohertus 
Dei  Gratia  Eex  Scotorum,  and,  on  the  other,  on  an  inner 
circle,  Villa  de  Glasgow,  and  on  an  outer  Dominus 
Protector.  The  site  is  now  occupied  by  part  of  the  North 
Prison  buUdings.  Not  far  from  Stable  Green,  on  the  W 
side  of  Castle  Street,  stood  St  Nicholas'  Hospital,  which 
was  founded  hy  Bishop  Muirhead  about  1460,  and  which 
was  pulled  down  in  1808.  Originally  it  was  endowed 
for  twelve  indigent  old  men,  and  a  priest  to  perform 
divine  service  at  the  canonical  hours,  and  Archbishop 
Leighton  subsequently,  in  1677,  bequeathed  £150  for 
its  further  endowment.  In  Brown's  History  of  Glasgow, 
in  1795,  the  chapel  of  the  hospital  is  mentioned  as 
existing,  but  in  ruins,  and  converted  into  a  cow-house  ! 
Farther  N  was  the  Back  Almshouse,  erected  by  Roland 
Blackadder,  subdean  of  Glasgow,  as  a  sort  of  casual 
ward,  which  seems  to  have  been  afterwards  united  to 

105 


GLASGOW 

St  Nicholas'  Hospital.  In  1590  Jolin  Painter,  master 
of  the  Sang  school,  left  £3  to  the  twelve  poor  men  in 
St  Nicholas'  Hospital,  and  20s.  to  the  four  poor  men  in 
the  Back  Almshouse.  Of  the  revenues  of  these,  only 
£380  of  capital,  and  £15  per  annum  from  grain  and 
ground  rents,  now  remain  to  he  administered  by  the 
magistrates  and  town  council. 

"The  Cross  stood  at  the  junction  of  Rotten  Eow,  Dry- 
gate,  and  High  Street.  In  the  latter  street  were  the 
buildings  and  church  of  Blackfriars'  Monastery,  the 
seminary  of  the  canons  regular,  and  a  small  building 
belonging  to  the  Grey  Friars.  The  new  cross  was  at 
the  junction  of  High  Street  and  the  Gallowgate  beyond 
the  Saltmarket  Port.  There  was  a  road  by  the  Saltmarket 
(the  Fuller's  Gate)  and  Bridgegate  to  Bishop  Eae's 
bridge,  near  which,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  present 
Stockwell  Street,  were  a  number  of  fishermen's  huts. 
These  were  called  the  Fishergate.  The  modern  name  is 
taken  from  a  well  in  the  district  called  the  Stok  Well, 
which  is  mentioned  in  1478.  On  the  other  side  of  the 
river  was  the  leper  hospital  already  mentioned.  Part 
of  Glasgow  Green  was  covered  with  wood,  and  known  as 
the  Bishop's  Forest.  It  is  difficult  to  arrive  at  any  idea 
of  the  population  of  the  city  at  this  time.  The  presence 
of  the  plague  twice  within  the  preceding  century  would 
tend  probably  somewhat  to  diminish  it,  but,  allowing 
for  this,  an  estimate  has  been  made  that  it  might 
number  about  2000,  of  which  from  two  to  three  hundred 
would  be  connected  with  the  University.  Fish  seem  to 
have  been  exported,  and  the  name  Fuller's  Gate  points 
at  the  manufacture  of  cloth,  but  the  trade  was  stUl  so 
small  that,  practically,  by  far  the  greater  part  of  the  in- 
habitants were  dependent  on  church  and  churchmen  for 
their  means  of  making  a  living.  In  the  time  interven- 
ing between  this  and  the  Reformation  the  burgh  of 
regality  had  gone  on  thriving  notwithstanding  temporary 
drawbacks.  Mr  Macgeorge  estimates  the  population  in 
the  middle  of  the  16th  century  as  about  4500,  which 
shows  that  the  place  was  still  growing,  but  all  on  the 
lines  already  laid  down,  and,  no  doubt,  in  a  great  part 
along  further  extensions  of  those  main  streets.  It  still 
had  no  more  than  the  one  principal  street  and  the  five 
or  six  lesser  ones.  High  Street,  occupying  in  the  main 
the  same  line  as  it  did  till  recent  years,  stretched  in  an 
irregular  line  downwards  to  the  Cross  from  whence  it 
was  continued  by  the  Waulker  or  Fuller's  Gate  (now 
the  Saltmarket)  to  the  Bridgegate.  From  the  Market 
Cross  the  Gallowgate,  opened  early  in  the  14th  cen- 
tury, went  E,  and  the  Trongate  (both  now  more 
closely  built  than  in  1450)  went  W.  On  the  N  side 
of  the  Gallowgate  stood  the  church  or  chapel  of  St 
Mungo's-in-the-Field  or  Little  St  Mungo's,  built  and  en- 
dowed about  1500  by  David  Cunningham,  provost  of 
the  collegiate  church  of  Hamilton.  It  was  surrounded 
by  a  cemetery — all  traces  of  which  have  long  vanished, 
although  the  site  is  still  known — and  close  by  it  stood 
certain  trees  bearing  the  name  of  St  Mungo.  The  Tron- 
gate was  then  better  known  by  its  original  name  of  St 
"Thenew's  Gate.  It  got  this  title  from  its  leading  to  the 
well  and  chapel  of  St  Tanew  or  Thenew  (the  mother  of 
St  Mungo)  which  stood  in  the  region  outside  the  West 
Port,  now  occupied  by  St  Enoch's  Square,  the  name 
Enoch  being  merely  a  corruption  of  the  older  one,  after 
a  passage  through  the  intermediate  stage  of  St  Tennoch's. 
Both  well  and  chapel  were  near  the  site  of  the  present 
church. 

The  chapel  marked  the  spot  where  Thenew  was 
supposed  to  have  been  buried,  and  contained  her  tomb. 
In  Oct.  1475  James  III.,  by  a  charter,  granted  to  the 
cathedral  church  of  Glasgow  half  a  stone  of  wax  from 
the  lands  of  '  Odingstoune '  in  the  lordship  of  BothweU 
for  lights  to  be  burned  at  the  tomb  of  'St  'Tenew'  in  the 
chapel  where  her  bones  are  buried.  The  chapel  was 
entire  in  1597,  and  some  traces  of  it  remained  in  the 
beginning  of  last  century.  The  name  of  Trongate  was 
just  beginning  to  come  into  use,  the  term  being  derived 
from  the  'trone'  or  weighing-machine  having  been 
erected  in  it  near  the  end  of  the  15th  century.  The  first 
public  mention  of  it  is  in  a  deed  of  seisin  of  30  May 

loe 


GLASGOW 

1545,  where  a  tenement  is  described  as  being  in  'le 
Troyne  Gait.'  On  the  S  side  of  the  Trongate  stood  the 
collegiate  church  of  the  blessed  Virgin  Mary  and  St 
Ann,  founded  prior  to  1528  by  James  Houston,  sub- 
dean  of  Glasgow.  Round  it  there  was  a  large  burying- 
ground,  which,  after  the  Reformation,  was  used  as  a 
market  for  grass  and  straw.  No  memorial  of  the  old 
building  (upon  the  site  of  which  the  Tron  Church  now 
stands)  has  been  preserved,  and  the  burying-ground  has 
long  since  been  built  over,  the  property  which  was  held 
in  trust  by  the  Corporation  having  been  parted  with  in 
1588  in  a  time  of  need.  To  the  AV  of  the  collegiate 
church  was  the  Song  School,  which  was  taught  by  one 
of  the  prebendaries  of  the  church,  who  was  required  to 
be  a  good  organist,  and  capable  of  training  the  youth 
'  in  plain  song  and  descant.'  The  church  lay  empty  and 
unused  for  a  long  time  after  the  Reformation,  but  about 
1592  it  began  to  be  resorted  to  as  a  place  of  Presbyterian 
worship,  and  continued  to  be  used  as  such  with  the 
status  of  a  parish  church  till  1793,  when  it  was 
destroyed  by  fire.  In  the  Trongate  stood  also  two  other 
chapels,  one  called  our  Lady  Chapel,  on  the  N  side  of 
the  street,  not  far  from  the  Cross,  founded  as  early  as 
the  year  1293  ;  the  other  dedicated  to  St  Thomas-^- 
Becket,  which  seems  to  have  been  endowed  in  1320  by 
Sir  Walter  Fitz  Gilbert,  the  progenitor  of  the  Hamiltons. 
Except,  then,  for  its  ecclesiastical  connection,  Glasgow 
was  as  yet  a  place  of  no  very  great  importance ;  and 
indeed,  in  the  taxation  of  royal  burghs  in  the  time  of 
Queen  Mary,  it  is  rated  only  as  the  eleventh  ;  but  the 
successful  outcome  of  the  Reformation,  by  depriving  the 
citizens  of  their  former  great  mainstay,  turned  their 
industry  into  the  new,  permanent,  and  more  profitable 
channels  that  were  to  lead  to  future  greatness. 

The  first  outlook,  however,  was  far  from  promising, 
for  the  loss  of  the  clergy  and  of  the  university  students 
and  the  confusion  of  the  times  brought  ruin  and  suffer- 
ing to  many  in  Glasgow,  especially  of  the  middle  and 
lower  classes,  and  caused  much  distress.  The  burgh 
records  for  1563  state  that  '  there  was  a  grit  dearth 
approaching  to  a  famine,'  and  that  all  the  necessaries  of 
life  were  more  than  treble  their  ordinary  value.  The 
magistrates  tried  to  regulate  prices  and  weights,  but 
probably  they  were  not  very  successful.  In  1576  a 
humble  supplication  was  presented  to  the  King  and  par- 
liament by  the  freemen  and  other  indwellers  of  the  city 
of  Glasgow  above  the  Greyfriars'  Wynd  thereof,  and 
makes  mention  that  '  whereas  that  part  of  the  said  city 
that  afore  the  Reformation  of  the  religion  was  enter- 
tained and  upholden  by  the  resort  of  the  bishops, 
pastors,  and  others  of  the  clergy  for  the  time,  is  now  be- 
coming ruinous,  and  for  the  maist  part  altogether 
decayit,  and  the  heritors  and  possessors  thereof  greatly 
depauperit,  wanting  the  means  not  only  to  uphold  the 
same,  but  for  theentertainment  of  themselves,  their  wyffis, 
bairnies,  and  families.  .  .  .  And  seeing  that  part 
of  the  said  city  above  the  Greyfriars'  Wynd  is  the  only 
ornament  and  decoration  thereof,  by  reason  of  the  great 
and  sumptuous  buildings  of  great  antiquity  very  proper 
and  meet  for  the  receipt  of  his  highness  and  nobility  at 
such  times  as  they  shall  repair  thereto,'  and  so  on,  and 
generally  claiming  some  amelioration  of  their  condition. 
Commissioners  were  accordingly  appointed  to  take  mea- 
sures for  the  relief  of  their  necessity,  and  as  one  of  the 
complaints  had  been  that  there  was  '  ane  great  confusion 
and  multitude  of  markets  togidder  in  ane  place  about 
the  croce,'  they  ordered  the  markets  to  be  removed  far- 
ther up  the  street  for  the  benefit  of  the  petitioners. 
There  is  no  reason  to  believe  that  the  shifting  of  the 
markets  compensated  for  the  banishment  of  the  Roman 
Catholic  clergy,  and  the  desired  amelioration  took  place 
only  when  the  inhabitants,  learning  to  rely  on  them- 
selves, began  to  direct  their  industry  into  new  channels. 
It  is  indeed  somewhat  remarkable  to  find  that,  even  thus 
early,  and  while  the  place  was  still  so  poor  and  so 
limited,  Glasgow  began  to  possess  the  germs  of  commer- 
cial eminence  in  so  far  as  it  was  not  destitute  of  ship- 
ping, for  there  is  an  order  of  the  Privy  Council  to  the 
effect  that  vessels  belonging  to  Glasgow  should   not 


GLASGOW 

annoy  those  belonging  to  Henry  VIII.,   the  Queen's 
grand-uncle. 

Subsequent  to  the  Reformation  the  glimpses  of  the 
social  and  moral  condition  of  the  people,  which  pre- 
viously were  drawn  mostly  from  the  archives  of  the  see, 
come  to  be  taken  from  the  records  of  the  presbytery, 
kirk-session,  and  town  council,  and  the  picture  they 
present  is  certainly  very  curious,  though  fresh  and 
truthful.  There  is  no  doubt  that,  notwithstanding  the 
amount  of  suffering  caused  by  the  change,  the  citizens 
adhered  firmly  to  the  doctrines  they  had  embraced  with 
such  cordiality  and  sincerity,  for  in  1581  the  negative 
Confession  of  Faith,  with  the  National  Covenant  an- 
nexed, was  signed  at  Glasgow  by  2250  persons,  men  as 
well  as  women — a  total  which,  considering  the  probable 
number  of  the  population,  must  have  included  almost 
every  one  above  the  condition  of  childhood.  As  the  old 
bishops  and  archbishops  had  never  been  legally  divested 
of  their  temporalities,  it  became  necessary  to  employ  a 
legal  fiction  in  order  to  get  possession  of  the  revenues  ; 
and  for  this  purpose  the  bishops  known  as  the  '  Tulchans ' 
— since  they  were  employed  merely  as  dummy  calves, 
while  the  court  favourites  or  the  great  officers  of  state 
railked  the  benefices — were  appointed.  In  1581  the  king 
promoted  Robert  Montgomery,  minister  at  Stirling,  to  be 
Protestant  Archbishop  of  Glasgow,  on  the  understanding 
that  the  larger  portion  of  the  temporalities  were  to  be  paid 
to  the  Lennox  family,  an  appointment  and  arrangement 
in  the  highest  degree  distasteful  to  the  people.  It  was 
resolved  to  oppose  his  induction  by  sending  Mr  Howie, 
one  of  the  Presbyterian  preachers,  to  take  prior  occupa- 
tion of  the  pulpit  of  the  cathedral.  Howie  went,  but 
while  he  was,  on  the  day  set  apart  for  the  induction  of  the 
prelate,  engaged  in  the  ordinary  service  of  the  day,  Sir 
Matthew  Stewart  of  Minto,  provost  of  the  city,  deter- 
mined to  enforce  the  royal  warrant,  pulled  him  out  of 
the  pulpit,  and  in  the  course  of  the  struggle  a  handful 
of  hair  was  torn  from  the  minister's  beard,  some  of  his 
teeth  were  knocked  out,  and  his  blood  was  shed.  This 
assault  was  regarded  by  the  citizens  of  Glasgow  as  a 
most  sacrilegious  one  ;  and  as  Mr  Howie  denounced  the 
judgment  of  God  upon  Sir  Matthew  and  his  family,  it 
was  remarked  that  in  seventy  years  this  once  potent  race 
had  been  reduced  to  impoverished  circumstances  in  the 
city  in  which  for  many  generations  they  had  been  lords. 
How  much  of  this  was  due  to  Mr  Howie's  curse  it  is  un- 
1  necessary  to  inquire,  but  it  may  be  remarked  in  passing 
that  this  was  the  first  sign  of  that  stubborn  opposition 
to  Episcopacy  which  the  western  shires  afterwards  so 
strongly  exhibited.  Montgomery  was  forced  to  resign, 
and  he  afterwards  became  minister  of  the  parish  of 
Stewarton,  where  he  died,  but  his  retirement  did  not 
prevent  the  appointment  of  other  episcopal  prelates  in 
due  season.  The  power  of  the  Presbyterian  clergy  hav- 
ing been  meantime  fairly  established,  they  proceeded  to 
exercise  a  system  of  discipline  which  now-a-days  would 
be  considered  of  a  very  stringent  and  oppressive  charac- 
ter, but,  considering  the  superstition  and  looseness 
which  marked  the  former  papal  rule,  there  is  no  doubt 
that  it  was  necessary  for  the  regeneration  of  the  people, 
especially  those  of  what  were  termed  '  the  meaner  sort.' 
If  the  sacerdoial  power  were  supreme  before  the  Refor- 
mation the  Church  power,  cleric  and  lay,  now  became 
equally  so,  and  even  if  possible  still  more  so.  There 
are  cases  of  Church  interference  and  discipline  which 
might  hardly  be  credited  had  we  not  the  records  before 
us,  and  curiously  enough  we  find  the  general  kirk- 
session — a  body  appointed  in  1572,  and  possessing  a 
power  as  despotic  and  secret  as  that  of  the  Venetian 
Council — so  powerful  as  often  to  set  presbytery  and 
corporation  alike  at  defiance.  In  perusing  the  eccle- 
siastical injunctions  and  sentences,  the  large  number  of 
cases  in  which  jurisdiction  usually  belonging  to  the 
civil  power  was  exercised  by  the  Church  courts  is  very 
remarkable.  In  1582  it  was  ordered  that  '  the  booth 
doors  of  merchants  and  traffickers  were  to  be  steaked 
[shut]  on  Wednesdays  and  Fridays  in  the  hour  of  ser- 
mon, and  the  masters  of  booths  were  enjoined  to  keep 
the  honr  of  preaching  under  the   penalty  of  twenty 


GLASGOW 

pounds  Scots,  without  a  lawful  cause  admitted  by  the 
session.'  On  26  Dec.  five  persons  were  appointed  to 
make  repentance,  because  they  kept  the  superstitious 
day  called  Yuil  [Christmas].  '  The  baxters  [bakers]  to 
be  inquired  at,  to  whom  they  baked  Yuil  bread.'  In 
1587  the  session  laid  down  the  following  tariff  in  Scots 
money  to  meet  cases  of  immorality  : — 'Servant  women, 
for  a  single  breach  of  chastity,  twenty  pounds  for  her 
relief  from  cross  and  steeple ;  men  servants,  thirty 
pounds,  or  else  to  be  put  in  prison  eight  days  and  fed 
on  bread  and  water,  thereafter  to  be  put  in  the  jugs 
[stocks].'  As  for  the  richer  sort  of  servants,  the  fines 
were  to  be  exacted  at  the  arbitrement  of  the  Kirk. 
'This  act  not  to  extend  to  honest  men's  sons  and 
daughters,  but  they  to  be  punished  as  the  kirk  shall 
prescribe.'  The  Kirk  could,  however,  afford  to  be  tender 
when  it  had  to  deal  with  a  transgressor  whose  rank  was 
above  the  common  sort ;  for  in  1608  the  laird  of  Minto, 
a  late  provost,  was  in  trouble  by  reason  of  a  breach  of 
chastity,  but  it  was  resolved  to  pass  him  over  with  a 
reprimand.  Harlots  were  to  be  airted  through  the 
town,  ducked  in  the  Clyde,  and  put  in  the  jougs  at  the 
cross  on  a  market-day.  The  punishment  for  adultery 
was  to  'satisfy  six  Sabbaths  on  the  cuckstool  at  the 
pillar,  barefooted  and  barlegged,  in  sackcloth,  then  to 
be  carted  through  the  town  and  ducked  in  the  Clyde 
from  a  pulley  fixed  in  the  bridge.'  The  presbytery 
enjoined  the  ministers  to  be  serious  in  their  deportment 
and  modest  in  their  apparel,  '  not  vain  with  long  ruffles 
and  gaudy  toys  in  their  clothes.'  The  session  directed 
that  the  drum  should  go  through  the  town  to  intimate 
that  there  must  be  no  bickerings  or  plays  on  Sundays, 
either  by  young  or  old.  Games — golf,  alley-bowls,  etc. 
— were  forbidden  on  Sundays,  and  it  was  enjoined  that 
no  person  should  go  to  Rutherglen  to  see  the  plays  on 
Sunday.  Parents  who  had  children  to  be  baptized  were  to 
repeat  the  commandments  distinctly,  the  articles  of  faith, 
and  the  Lord's  Prayer,  or  to  be  declared  ignorant,  and 
some  other  godly  person  present  their  bairn,  with  further 
punishment  as  the  Church  shall  see  fit.  In  1588  the 
session  intimated  to  the  presbytery  that,  the  latter  body 
could  not  hold  '  exercise '  in  Blackfriars'  church  on  Fri- 
day, as  it  interfered  with  the  regular  Friday  sermon, 
and  the  presbytery  had  to  yield.  The  time  of  assembling 
on  the  Sabbaths  of  the  communion  was  four  o'clock  in 
the  morning,  and  it  must  have  been  rather  hard  on  the 
magistrates  who  had  to  'attend  the  tables,'  and  keep 
order.  The  collectors  assembled  on  these  occasions  in 
the  High  Kirk  at  three  o'clock  in  the  morning.  On  3 
March  1608  the  session  enacted  that  there  should  be  no 
meetings  of  women  on  the  Sabbath  in  time  of  sermon, 
and  that  no  hostler  should  sell  spirits,  wine,  or  ale  in 
time  of  sermon,  under  pain  of  twenty  pounds,  and  that 
there  should  be  no  buying  of  timber  on  the  Sabbath  at 
the  Water  of  Clyde  from  sunrise  to  sunset.  In  1588  a 
number  of  ash  trees  in  the  High  Kirk  churchyard  were 
ordered  to  be  cut  downi  to  make  forms  for  the  folk  to  sit 
on  in  the  church.  Women  were  not  permitted  to  sit 
on  these,  but  were  directed  to  bring  stools  with  them. 
It  was  also  intimated  that  '  no  woman,  married  or  un- 
married, should  come  within  the  kirk  door  to  preachings 
or  prayers  with  their  plaids  about  their  heads,  neither 
to  lie  down  in  the  kirk  on  their  faces  in  time  of  prayer, 
with  certification  that  their  plaids  be  drawn  down,  or 
they  be  raised  by  the  beadle.'  The  beadles  were  to 
have  '  staves  for  keeping  quietness  in  the  kirk  and 
comely  order  ; '  for  each  marriage  they  were  to  get  4d., 
and  for  each  baptism  2d.  On  9  March  1640  the  session 
intimated  that  all  masters  of  families  should  give  an 
account  of  those  in  their  families  who  have  not  the  Ten 
Commandments,  the  Lord's  Prayer,  Creed,  etc.,  and 
that  every  family  should  have  prayers  and  psalms 
morning  and  evening  ;  and  some  of  the  fittest  men  were 
appointed  to  assist  the  elders  in  promoting  this  work. 
On  13  July  1643  the  kirk-session  appointed  some  of 
theii'  number  to  go  through  the  town  on  the  market-day 
to  take  order  with  banners,  swearers,  etc.  (till  the  magis- 
trates provide  one  for  that  office) ;  swearers  were  to 
pay  twelve  pence,  and,  along  with  blasphemers  and 

107 


GLASGOW 

mockers  of  piety,  were  to  be,  for  the  second  offence,  re- 
buked at  the  bench  in  front  of  the  pulpit ;  and  for  the 
third  at  the  pillar,  over  and  above  the  fine.  Swearing 
seems  to  have  been  hard  to  eradicate,  for  it  had  been 
attracting  attention  from  the  time  of  the  Reformation 
onward  ;  and  the  women  were  as  bad  as,  or  even  worse 
than,  the  men.  In  1589  there  was  a  special  meeting  of 
the  town  council  to  consider  blasphemies  and  evil  words 
used  by  'sindrie  wemen,'  and  the  result  was  that  'ane 
pair  joges '  was  set  up.  Morality,  too,  was  still  poor  ; 
for  on  5  Aug.  1643  it  was  found  necessary  again  to 
make  enactments  about  offenders  against  the  seventh 
commandment,  and  it  was  decreed  that  they  should  be 
imprisoned,  and  then  drawn  through  the  to^m  in  a  cart 
with  a  paper  on  their  face ;  thereafter  to  stand  three 
hours  in  the  jougs  and  be  whipped ;  and  the  punish- 
ment seems  to  have  been  by  no  means  rarely  inflicted. 

The  magistrates  and  town  councillors  were  no  less 
zealous  in  the  good  work  of  encouraging  piety  and 
purity  of  morals  (to  which,  indeed,  they  were  often 
stirred  up  by  requests,  which  had  all  the  force  of  com- 
mands, from  the  kirk-session),  in  promoting  order  and 
cleanliness  in  the  town  (which  from  the  records  would 
seem  to  have  been  much  in  want  of  improvement),  in 
practising  charity  and  hospitality  now  and  then,  and  in 
keeping  up  a  martial  spirit  amongst  the  people  by  means 
of  '  wappon-shaws '  or  periodical  training  in  the  use  of 
arms.  Some  of  their  decisions  are  very  curious,  and, 
from  a  modern  point  of  view,  decidedly  ultra  vires. 
One  of  the  most  remarkable  illustrations  of  the  extent 
of  their  authority  is  a  composition  for  the  slaughter  of 
one  of  the  burgesses,  which  is  entered  on  the  books  of 
the  burgh  as  having  the  '  strength  of  ane  decreit  of  the 
provest  and  baUlies.'  In  this  their  authority  is  inter- 
poned  to  an  agreement,  by  which  the  widow  and  repre- 
sentatives of  a  murdered  man  agree  to  pass  from  any 
criminal  action  against  the  murderer  on  condition  of 
his  making  '  repentance '  within  the  High  church,  and 
paying  the  '  sowme  of  three  hundred  merkis  money  in 
name  of  kynbute'  or  reparation.  In  1547  the  bailies 
and  council  ordained  '  every  buythhalder  to  have  in 
reddiness  within  the  buyth  ane  halbert,  jak,  and  steel 
bonnet,  for  eschewing  of  sick  inconvenients  as  may 
happen. '  And  again,  in  1577-78,  we  find  the  following  : 
— '  Quhilk  day  it  is  condescendit  be  the  provest,  baillies, 
counsale,  and  dekynes,  that  the  act  maid  anent  the 
hagbuttis  be  renewit ;  that  every  ane  substantious  and 
habill  men  sail  have  ane  hagbutt  with  graitlit,  halder, 
and  bullet  effeiring  thairto ;  and  that  every  utheris 
nocht  beand  habill  thairfoir  sail  have  ane  lang  speir,  by 
[besides]  jakkis,  steHbonetis,  sword,  and  biikler.'  On 
28  Oct.  1588  it  is  'statut  and  ordainit  be  the  baillies 
and  counsall,  in  consideratioun  of  the  pest  now  in 
Paislay,  that  no  person,  indweller  within  the  town, 
because  of  the  markets  of  Paisley  and  Eilmacolm  ap- 
proaching, shall  pass  furth  of  the  town  thereto,  under 
the  pain  of  five  pounds,  to  be  taken  of  every  person 
repairing  thereto,  and  banished  furth  of  the  said  town 
for  a  year  and  a  day,  without  leif  askit  and  gevin  be  the 
baillies.'  On  1  June  1589  the  council  met  to  consider 
the  King's  letter,  charging  this  burgh  and  all  others  to 
arm  men  to  go  to  the  North  on  his  Majesty's  service  ; 
and,  considering  that  his  Majesty  was  then  at  Hamilton, 
directed  the  three  bailies,  the  treasurer,  and  a  deputa- 
tion of  the  citizens  to  proceed  thither  and  speak  to  the 
King  and  the  chancellor,  with  the  view  that  they  may 
'get  ane  licent  of  his  grace  to  abyd  fra  this  present 
raid' — i.e.,  to  be  allowed  to  abstain  from  sending  men 
to  fonn  part  of  the  King's  army  then  mustering  against 
the  popish  earls  in  the  North.  The  appeal  was,  however, 
unsuccessful,  for  at  a  subsequent  meeting  of  council  it 
was  resolved  to  send  '  fyftie  hagbutteris  to  await  on 
his  Majesties  service  in  the  north.'  In  the  same  year, 
1589,  it  is  ordained  that  '  na  middingis  [dunghills]  be 
laid  upon  the  hiegate,  nor  in  the  meil  or  flesclie  mer- 
cattis.  And  that  na  flescheowris  teme  uschavis  [empty 
offal]  in  the  said  places  under  the  pane  of  xvj  s. '  It  is 
also  ordained  that  '  na  breiding  of  flesche  nor  blawing 
of  muttoun  be  under  the  pane  of  xvj  s.'  The  magis- 
108 


GLASGOW 

trates  ot  *Vese  times  appear  to  have  regulated  the  price 
of  commodities,  and  enactments  are  made  fixing  the 
price  of  ale,  candles,  and  viands,  and  vivers  generally. 
Candlemakers  are  enjoined  to  sell  either  pounds  or  half, 
pounds  and  to  sell  penny  or  twopenny  caudles.  On 
26  July  1612,  'Matthew  Thomesoun,  hielandman  fiddler,' 
is  apprehended  on  suspicion  of  assaulting  '  ane  young 
damesell,  named  Jonet  M'Quhirrie.'  It  appears  that 
the  charge  was  '  denyit  be  him  and  hard  to  be  verefeit ; ' 
but  the  bailies  did  not  give  the  fiddler  the  benefit  of  the 
insufficiency  of  evidence,  for,  'finding  him  ane  idill 
vagabound,'  they  ordered  him  to  be  put  in  the  stocks 
uutU  the  evening,  and  thereafter  to  be  put  out  of  the 
town  at  the  West  Port  and  banished  for  ever,  and 
should  he  afterwards  be  found  in  the  to^vn  of  his  own 
consent,  he  was  to  be  '  hangit  but  [without]  ane  assyze. ' 
In  the  treasurer's  accounts  for  1609,  various  queer  items 
are  given  under  the  heads  of  charity,  entertainments, 
etc.  Sums  are  paid  to  sundry  persons  in  the  town  'for 
vyne  desart,  sukar,  and  fruitis,  and  other  expenses  made 
and  wairit  upon  the  Duke  of  Wirtinbrig  and  James, 
Master  of  Blantyre,  for  his  welcum  furth  of  Inglind  ; ' 
'  to  two  puir  Inglismen  at  command  of  the  baiUies ; ' 
'  pulder  and  lead, '  supplied  to  the  men  of  war  who  were 
sent  to  the  Isles ;  '  to  schipbrokin  Inglismen,  puire 
Polians,  Inlandraen  ; '  to  '  ane  pure  crippill  man  that 
come  out  of  Paslay ; '  and  also  to  '  ane  pure  man  that 
geid  on  his  kneis.'  In  1643  a  sum  is  given  for  James 
Bogle,  a  burgess'  son,  to  help  to  pay  his  ransom,  '  being 
taken  with  the  Turks.'  A  gilt  is  made  to  'Johne 
Lyoun's  wyf  in  Greenock,  to  help  to  cut  ane  bairne  of 
the  stone.'  On  21  March  1661,  the  council  agrees  to 
pay  yearly  to  Evir  M'NeU,  'that  cuts  the  stone,'  one 
hundred  merks  Scots  for  cutting  '  all  the  poor  for  that 
frielie.'  Various  presents  of  wine  and  herrings  are  given 
to  the  town's  friends  ;  and  so  late  as  20  April  1695  the 
council  '  appoints  the  treasurer  to  have  allowance  in  his 
hands  of  two  hundreth  merks  payed  out  be  him  as  the 
price  of  ane  hogsheid  of  wyne  given  to  a  friend  of  this 
toune,  whom  it  is  not  fitt  to  name." 

There  are  various  entries  regarding  the  meeting  of  the 
celebrated  General  Assembly  of  1638  ;  and,  during  the 
civil  troubles  in  the  reign  of  Charles  I.  and  subsequently, 
'  wappon-shaws '  are  ordered  for  the  training  of  the 
people  in  arms,  and  munitions  are  purchased,  for  the 
price  of  which  the  inhabitants  are  assessed,  and  150 
men  are  ordered  to  the  border  '  for  the  common  defence.' 
George  Porterfield  was  to  be  captain,  and  the  Glasgow 
men  were  to  march  in  Lord  Montgomery's  regiment. 
On  25  April  1646,  the  Treasurer  is  ordered  to  'pay  to 
Daniel  Brown,  surgeon,  twelve  pounds  money,  for  help- 
ing and  ciu-ing  certain  poor  soldiers  hurt  at  Kilsyth,  at 
command  of  the  late  magistrates.'  On  18  June  1660, 
'  ane  congratulatioune '  is  kept  on  account  of  the  happy 
return  of  'our  dread  sovereign  the  King's  majestie.' 
In  1663  the  Dean  of  Guild  and  convener  are  ordered  to 
appoint  some  of  their  number  as  they  think  convenient 
'  to  taist  the  seek  now  cellered  be  Mr  Campsie,'  pre- 
paratory to  the  '  toune's  denner '  then  about  to  take 
place.  On  20  June  1674,  it  was  represented  to  the 
council  that  Mrs  Gumming,  mistress  of  manners,  was 
about  to  leave  the  town  on  account  of  the  small  employ- 
ment which  she  had  found  within  it,  '  quhilk  they  fund 
to  be  prejudiciall  to  this  place,  and,  in  particular,  to 
theis  who  hes  young  women  to  bried  therin,'  and, 
therefore,  for  the  further  encouragement  of  Mrs  Gum- 
ming, if  she  will  stay,  she  was  to  be  paid  '  one  hundred 
merks  yearly  '  so  long  as  she  keeps  a  school  and  teaches 
children  as  formerly.  On  1  Feb.  1690,  the  councU 
ordains  '  ane  proclamation  to  be  sent  throw  the  toune 
prohibiting  and  dischargeing  the  haill  inhabitants  and 
others  residing  vrithin  this  burgh,  that  they,  nor  nane 
of  them,  drink  in  any  tavern  after  ten  o'clock  at  night 
on  the  week  days,  under  the  paine  of  fourtie  shillings 
Scots  to  be  payed  be  the  furnisher  of  the  drink,  and 
twentie  shillings  Scots  be  the  drinker,  for  each  failzie 
totics  quoties,  whereof  the  one-half  to  the  informer,  and 
the  other  to  be  applied  to  the  use  of  the  poor.'  Sabbath 
was  to  be  strictly  obsei'ved.     By  a  minute  of  the  Session, 


GLASGOW 

on  H  April  1642,  the  magistrates  and  ministers  were 
directed  to  search  the  streets  on  Sabbath  nisjht  for  per- 
sons who  absented  themselves  from  church,  and,  by 
another,  they  were  to  disperse  all  jovial  companies,  even 
in  private  houses,  late  on  Saturday  night,  and  on  Sunday 
they  were  to  watch  the  streets  during  service  time,  and 
compel  those  who  were  out  to  go  to  church.  At  a  later 
date  the  Sunday  walkers  had  the  choice  of  going  home. 
The  watchers  had  the  power  of  arresting  offenders,  and 
'  this  practice, '  says  Mr  Macgeorge,  '  was  continued 
till  so  late  as  the  middle  of  last  century,  when  the 
searchers  having  taken  into  custody  Mr  Peter  Blackburn, 
father  of  Mr  Blackburn  of  Killearn,  for  walking  on  the 
Green  one  Suuday,  he  prosecuted  the  magistrates,  and 
succeeded  in  his  suit.  This  caused  the  practice  to  be 
abandoned.' 

The  town  appears,  in  early  times,  to  have  been  sadly 
afflicted  with  a  class  of  diseased  unfortunates  called 
lepers.  Reference  has  been  already  made  to  the  hospital 
erected  for  them  by  Lady  Lochow,  daughter  of  Robert, 
Duke  of  Albany,  and  mother  of  Colin,  first  Earl  of 
Argyll,  and  it  is  further  recorded  that  on  7  Oct.  1589 
there  were  six  lepers  in  her  lepers'  house  at  Gorbals. 
In  1610  the  council  ordained  that  the  lepers  of  the  hos- 
pital should  go  up  the  causewayside  near  the  gutter, 
and  should  have  '  clapperis '  in  their  hands  to  warn  the 
people  to  keep  away,  and  a  cloth  upon  their  mouth  and 
face,  and  should  stand  afar  off  while  they  received  alms, 
under  the  penalty  of  being  banished  from  the  town  and 
hospital.  In  1635  the  magistrates  purchased  from  the 
Earl  of  Glencairn  the  manse  of  the  prebendary  of  Cam- 
buslang,  which  had  been  gifted  to  him  after  the  Refor- 
mation, which  they  fitted  up  as  a  house  of  correction  for 
dissolute  women,  and  the  Kirk  Session  was  cruel  enough 
to  enjoin  that  the  poor  creatures  there  confined  should 
be  '  whipped  every  day  during  pleasure. ' 

Glasgow  had  its  fuU  share  of  those  trials  and  calamities 
which  began  in  the  time  of  Charles  I.,  and  only  ter- 
minated on  the  accession  of  William  III.  One  of  the 
leading  events  in  connection  with  this  period  was  the 
meeting  of  the  General  Assembly  of  the  Church  of  Scot- 
land at  Glasgow  in  1638,  an  assembly  of  the  very  highest 
national  interest  and  importance,  and  which  throughout 
its  meetings  exhibited  a  degree  of  independence  and  de- 
termination not  exceeded  by  the  Long  Parliament  of 
England  in  the  most  vigorous  period  of  its  existence. 
Externally,  the  Church  of  Scotland  was  at  this  period 
regulated  by  the  Episcopal  form  of  Government,  but  the 
mass  of  the  people,  and  a  great  majority  of  the  nobility 
and  gentry,  were  devoutly  attached  to  the  Presbyterian 
principles  that  had  been  introduced  among  them  by 
Knox  and  the  early  Reformers.  The  country  tolerated 
Episcopac}',  but  neither  acq[uiesced  in  it  nor  loved  it. 
When  the  King,  Charles  I.,  therefore,  in  1637,  ordered 
a  new  service  book  to  be  used  in  the  Scottish  clmrches, 
and  a  report  spread  abroad  that  this  book  was  tinctured 
by  the  mass,  the  people  exclaimed  that  this  was  neither 
more  nor  less  than  an  attempt  to  insinuate  Popery 
amongst  them  under  the  shallow  disguise  of  a  Protestant 
ritual ;  and  the  long  smothered  dislike  to  '  prelacy ' 
burst  forth  into  a  storm  of  opposition  which  eventually 
became  destructive  to  the  whole  system,  and  fatal  to  the 
King.  The  attempt  to  introduce  Laud's  liturgy  was 
followed  by  a  closer  and  more  hearty  bond  of  union 
among  the  Scottish  Presbyterians,  who  exerted  them- 
selves towards  the  calling  together  of  a  General  Assembly 
to  consider  the  state  of  the  Church,  and,  the  King's  re- 
luctant assent  having  been  obtained,  the  Assembly  was 
finally  summoned  to  meet  at  Glasgow  on  21  Nov.  1638. 
The  service  book  had  already  produced  commotion  in 
Glasgow,  for,  one  day  in  1637,  '  at  the  outgoing  of  the 
church  about  thirty  or  forty  of  our  honestest  women 
in  one  voice  before  the  bishop  and  magistrates  fell  a 
railing,  cursing,  scolding  with  clamours  on  Mr  William 
Annan '  (who  had,  before  the  synod  of  Glasgow,  preached 
a  sermon  in  defence  of  the  liturgy),  and  the  same  night, 
while  he  was  walking  in  the  dark,  '  some  hundreds 
of  enraged  women  of  all  qualities  are  about  him,  with 
neaves,  staves,  and  peats,  but  [to  their  credit  be  it  said] 


GLASGOW 

no  stones.  They  beat  him  sore  ;  his  cloak,  ruff,  and 
hat  were  rent, '  and  though  he  escaped  all  '  bloody 
wounds '  he  was  in  danger  of  being  killed.  '  Some  two 
of  the  meanest '  of  those  who  had  been  engaged  in  the 
disturbance  in  the  earlier  part  of  the  day  were  put  in 
prison,  but  the  other  '  tumult  was  so  great  that  it  was 
not  thought  meet  to  search  either  the  plotters  or  actors  of 
it,  for  numbers  of  the  best  quality  would  have  been  found 
guilty. '  Next  day  the  poor  man  had  the  further  misfor- 
tune to  fall  with  his  horse  above  him  in  '  very  foul  mire ' 
in  presence  of  an  angry  crowd  of  women,  who,  no  doubt, 
sliowed  their  exultation  at  the  accident,  so  that  his  ser- 
mon cost  him  a  good  deal  of  grief.  With  the  citizens  in 
a  temper  like  this,  and  considering  the  weighty  and 
vexed  questions  to  be  debated,  it  is  not  surprising  that 
the  magistrates  looked  forward  to  the  convocation  of 
the  Assembly  with  some  anxiety.  They  passed  a  number 
of  wholesome  regulations,  ordaining,  among  other  things, 
that  '  no  inhabitant  expect  more  rent  for  their  houses, 
chambers,  beds,  and  stables,  than  shall  be  appointed  by 
the  provost,  bailies,  and  council,  and  ordains  the  same 
to  be  intimated  by  sound  of  drum,  that  no  person  may 
plead  ignorance.'  They  also  purchased  muskets  with 
'  stalfs  andbandelieris,'  pikes,  powder,  and  match,  with 
which  to  arm  '  ane  gaird  of  men  keepit '  to  mount  guard 
day  and  night  while  the  town  was  filled  with  strangers. 
The  council  representative  too  was  ordered  not  to  give 
his  vote  on  any  important  matter  without  first  delibera- 
ting with  his  fellow  councillors.  The  Assembly  accord- 
ingly met  on  the  day  appointed,  in  the  nave  of  the 
cathedral,  which  had  been  fitted  up  for  the  occasion,  the 
'  vaults '  or  narrow  galleries  above  being  set  apart  for 
ladies  and  persons  of  humble  degree,  while  one  was  re- 
served for  young  nobleman,  not  members  of  the  house. 
The  majority  of  the  aristocracy  of  the  country  were  pre- 
sent either  in  the  capacity  of  oflicers  of  the  crown,  or  as 
elders  and  assessors  from  the  burghs — '  Rothes,  Wemyss, 
Balmerino,  Lindsay,  Yester,  Eglinton,  Loudon,  and 
many  others,  whose  sole  word  was  still  law  for  large 
districts  of  Scotland. '  From  each  of  the  four  universities 
there  were  three  representatives,  and  'thair  cam  out  of  ilk 
presbitrie  within  the  Kingdome  to  this  assemblie,  ane, 
tua,  or  thrie  of  ablest  covenanting  ministeris,  with  ane, 
tua,  or  thrie  reuUing  elderis,  who  sould  voice  as  they 
voiced.'  There  were  altogether  present  '  140  ministers, 
2  professors,  not  ministers,  and  98  ruling  elders  from 
presbyteries  and  burghs.  Of  these  ruling  elders,  17  were 
noblemen,  9  were  knights,  25  were  landed  proprietors, 
and  47  were  burgesses — all  men  of  some  consideration.' 
The  great  crowd,  however,  that  had  gathered  to  Glasgow 
consisted  of  the  trains  or  '  following '  of  the  nobles, 
which  were  made  very  large  on  the  pretext  that  as  there 
might  be  an  inroad  of  Highland  robbers,  a  strong  guard 
of  armed  men  was  absolutely  necessary.  This  immense 
crowd  of  retainers  caused  great  confusion,  pressure,  and 
unseemly  scenes,  which  have  been  caustically  described 
by  Robert  BaiUie,  afterwards  Principal  of  the  University 
of  Glasgow,  who  was  a  member  of  the  Assembly.  '  Our 
rascals,'  says  he,  in  his  Letters  and  Journals,  '  without 
shame  in  great  numbers  make  such  din  and  clamour  in 
the  house  of  the  true  God,  that  if  they  "  minted  "  to  use 
the  like  behaviour  in  my  chamber,  I  would  not  be  con- 
tented till  they  were  down  the  stairs.'  Burnet  in  his 
Memoirs  of  the  Dukes  of  Hamilton  says  it  was  the  greatest 
gathering  that  had  ever  met  in  tliese  parts,  and  that 
the  Marquis  of  Hamilton,  who  was  the  royal  commis- 
sioner, 'judged  it  was  a  sad  sight  to  see  such  an  as- 
sembly, for  not  a  gown  was  among  them  aU,  but 
mauy  had  swords  and  daggers  about  them,'  so  that 
there  was  more  of  an  armed  conference  than  any- 
thing else.  Mr  John  Bell  of  the  Laigh  Kirk,  '  the 
most  auncient  preicher  of  the  tonne,'  preached  the 
opening  sermon,  and  after  some  preliminary  quarrel- 
ling about  the  conduct  of  business,  Mr  Alexander  Hen- 
derson, minister  of  Leuchars,  was  appointed  moderator, 
and  thereafter  several  days  were  spent  in  keen  discus- 
sion as  to  the  constitution  of  and  powers  vested  in  tlie 
Assembly  ;  and  it  soon  became  pretty  evident  that  the 
court  was  determined  to  remodel  the  whole  government 

109 


GLASGOW 

of  the  Church.  The  commissioner,  a  man  of  steady 
judgment  and  sharp  and  clear  wit,  did  his  best  to  stop 
what  he  deemed  a  high-handed  and  unauthorised  pro- 
ceeding ;  but  he  had  arrayed  against  him  all  the  best 
men  of  the  time,  for  whom  single-handed  he  was  no 
match  in  argument,  and  at  length,  on  Wednesday,  28 
Nov.,  at  the  seventh  sitting,  when  the  members  were 
about  to  vote  on  the  question  whether  the  Assemblj' 
was  competent  to  judge  the  bishops,  the  marquis,  de- 
claring that  he  could  not  give  his  countenance  to  their 
proceedings,  produced  the  King's  instructions  and  war- 
rant  to  dissolve  the  Assembly,  which  he  accordingly 
did,  and  left  the  Assembly  accompanied  by  his  asses- 
sors and  a  few  of  the  members,  and  'immediatelie  causes 
ane  herald  to  go  to  the  Cross  of  Glasgow  in  his  cot 
armes,  with  ane  proclamation  maid  wp  be  him  and 
the  lordis  of  secreit  counsall  and  subscrivit  with  there 
handis  and  givin  ^ynder  his  Majesteis  signet,  daitit  the 
29th  of  November,  and  be  sound  of  trumpet  dischargeit 
the  said  generall  assemblie  and  in  his  Hines  name  com- 
maudit  the  said  pretendit  moderatour,  commissioneris, 
reulling  elderis,  and  all  uther  memberis  thairof,  not  to 
treat,  consult,  or  conclude  any  farder  in  the  said  assem- 
blie wnder  the  pane  of  tressoun,  and  that  they  should 
ryss  wp  and  dissolue  out  of  the  tonne  of  Glasgow 
within  24  houris. '  The  General  Assembly  held  at  Glas- 
gow in  1610  had  declared  that  all  general  meetings  of 
the  Church  were  unlawful  without  the  licence  of  the 
King,  but  the  men  of  1638  were  of  different  mind  and 
in  another  temper.  "While  the  commissioner  was  leav- 
ing the  meeting,  instruments  were  being  taken  and  a 
protest  read  declaring  that  the  work  of  the  Assembly 
would  not  be  interrupted  ;  and  protest  was  again  made 
at  the  Cross  against  the  proclamation,  claiming  that  the 
Assembly  being  once  convened  'could  not  be  dissolved 
without  its  own  consent.  The  loss  of  the  royal  repre- 
sentative was  considered  to  be  compensated  for  by  the 
adherence  and  encouragement  of  the  Earl  of  Argyll,  who 
now  definitely  cast  in  his  lot  with  the  Covenanters  ;  and 
so  the  Presbyterians,  left  to  themselves,  proceeded  with 
earnestness  and  devoted  courage  to  do  the  work  for 
which  they  had  assembled.  '  They  passed  an  act  de- 
claring the  Assemblies  of  1606,  1608,  1616,  1617,  and 
1618  to  have  been  so  vitiated  by  kingly  interference  as 
to  be  null  and  void.'  They  condemned  'the  service 
book,  the  book  of  canons,  the  book  of  ordination,  and 
the  Court  of  High  Commission.  They  abjured  Episco- 
pacy and  the  five  articles  of  Perth,'  and  then  proceeded 
to  the  trial  and  deposition  of  the  bishops  and  some 
other  ministers  besides  for  professing  the  doctrines  of 
Arminianism,  Popery,  and  Atheism  ;  for  urging  the  use 
of  the  liturgy,  bowing  to  the  altar,  and  wearing  the 
cope  and  rochet ;  for  declining  the  Assembly,  and  for 
being  guilty  of  simony,  avarice,  profanity,  adultery, 
drunkenness,  and  other  crimes.  The  Bishop  of  St 
Andrews,  for  instance,  was  found  guilty  of  riding 
through  the  country  on  the  Lord's  Day,  of  carding  and 
dicing  during  the  time  of  divine  service,  of  tippling  in 
taverns  till  midnight,  of  falsifying  the  acts  of  Assembly, 
of  slandering  the  Covenant,  and  of  adultery,  incest, 
sacrilege,  and  simony  !  It  is  difficult  to  believe  all  this 
of  a  venerable  man  like  Spottiswoode,  and  probably  his 
real  fault  was  that  he  was  a  bishop.  Thomas  Foster, 
minister  of  Melrose,  was  deposed  on  the  charge  'that 
he  used  to  sit  at  preaching  and  prayer,  baptise  in  his 
own,  h^use  ;  that  he  made  a  way  through  the  church  for 
his  kii.e  and  sheep  ;  that  he  made  a  waggon  of  the  old 
communion  table  to  lead  his  peats  in  ;  that  he  took  in 
his  corn,  and  said  it  was  lawful  to  work,  on  the  Sabbath ; 
and  that  he  affirmed  the  Reformers  had  brought  more 
damage  to  the  Church  in  one  age  than  the  Pope  and  his 
faction  had  done  in  a  thousand  years.'  One  of  the 
counts  against  the  Bishop  of  Orkney  was  'that  he  was  a 
curler  on  the  ice  on  the  Sabbath  day  ; '  while  the 
Bishop  of  Moray  was  convicted  of  all  'the  ordinary 
faults  of  a  bishop,'  and  was  besides  charged  by  Mr 
Andrew  Cant  with  having  danced  in  his  nightshirt  at 
his  daughter's  wedding  !  And  so  the  Archbishops  of 
St  Andrews  and  Glasgow,  and  the  Bishops  of  Edinburgh, 
110 


GLASGOW 

Aberdeen,  Galloway,  Eoss,  Brechin,  Dunblzne,  Dun. 
keld,  Moray,  Orkney,  Lismore,  and  the  isles,  were  de- 
posed and  excommunicated  ;  the  Covenant  was  ordered 
to  be  signed  by  all  classes  of  the  people  ;  and  thus  '  the 
whole  fabric  which  James  and  Charles  in  a  long  course 
of  years  had  been  rearing  with  so  much  care  and  policy 
fell  at  once  to  the  ground.'  The  government  of  the 
Church  by  kirk  sessions,  presbyteries,  and  synods  was 
restored ;  and  the  work  of  the  Assembly  being  over, 
it  adjourned  on  20  Dec,  having  held  eighteen  meet- 
ings after  the  commissioner  retired,  and  the  last  day  is 
stated  to  have  been  a  'blithe  day  to  all.'  As  to  the 
part  the  Glasgow  representative  took  there  can  be  no 
doubt,  for  it  is  recorded  that,  after  duly  consulting  the 
council  as  he  had  been  ordered,  he  was  instructed  to 
vote  for  all  the  resolutions  put  and  carried. 

Soon  after  the  meeting  of  the  Assembly  the  great 
civil  war  broke  out,  and  the  Earl  of  Montrose,  having 
abandoned  the  Covenanting  party  and  attached  himself 
to  the  cause  of  the  King,  raised  an  army  in  the  North, 
and,  after  defeating  the  troops  of  the  Covenanters  at 
a  number  of  battles,  marched  southwards  to  Kilsyth, 
a  few  mUes  from  Glasgow,  where,  on  15  Aug.  1645,  he 
inflicted  a  decisive  defeat  on  General  Baillie  at  the  head 
of  7000  Covenanters.  The  authorities  in  Glasgow  heard 
of  the  triumph  of  Montrose  with  no  small  uneasiness, 
but,  though  strong  Covenanters,  and  opposed  therefore 
to  the  cause  for  which  the  marquis  had  fought  and  con- 
quered, they  were  men  of  policy  ;  and  so,  making  a  virtue 
of  necessity,  they  sent  a  deputation,  consisting  of  Sir 
Robert  Douglas  of  Blackerston  and  Archibald  Fleming, 
Commissary  of  the  City,  to  Kilsyth  to  invite  Montrose, 
in  the  name  of  Provost  Bell  and  the  magistrates,  to 
honour  the  city  by  his  presence  and  to  partake  of  their 
hospitality.  The  marquis  accepted  the  invitation,  and 
marched  to  Glasgow,  where  he  and  his  army  were  wel- 
comed with  much  solemnity  and  outward  respect,  his 
lordship  and  his  officers  being  sumptuoiisly  entertained 
by  the  magistrates  and  higher  classes  of  the  inhabitants 
at  a  banquet,  during  which  their  apologies  for  their 
former  want  of  loyalty  were  tendered  and  received  in 
good  part.  A  '  pest '  then  prevaOed  in  the  city,  how- 
ever, and  Montrose  left  it  on  the  second  day  and 
moved  to  Bothwell ;  not,  however,  without  leaving  a 
memorial  of  his  visit  in  a  forced  loan  to  assist  in  carry- 
ing on  the  war  on  the  King's  behalf  to  the  extent  of 
£50,000  Scots,  which  was,  of  course,  never  repaid. 
Within  a  month  after,  Montrose  was  surprised  and  de- 
feated at  Philliphaugh  by  General  Leslie,  who,  in  his 
turn,  visited  Glasgow,  where  the  town  council  had 
meanwhile  got  into  difficulties  over  their  conduct 
towards  Montrose,  the  Earl  of  Lanark  having,  in  virtue 
of  a  warrant  from  the  committee  of  the  estates,  sus- 
pended the  whole  council,  and  the  estates  themselves 
having  selected  a  new  one,  which  was  accepted,  though 
not  without  protest  against  such  an  invasion  of  the  pri 
vUeges  of  the  burgh.  Leslie  was  very  civil,  and  even 
moderate,  but,  with  a  very  grim  joke  about  money  being 
necessary  to  pay  the  interest  of  the  loan  to  Montrose 
he  also  borrowed  from  them  £20,000  Scots,  so  that  the 
city  probably  lost  more  than  it  would  have  done  if  it 
had  left  the  matter  alone.  Montrose,  as  the  King's 
lieutenant,  had  summoned  a  parliament  to  meet  at 
Glasgow  on  20  Oct.,  but  now,  instead  of  the  bustle 
of  a  meeting  of  the  estates,  the  citizens  had  the  spectacle 
of  an  execution,  for  three  of  the  prisoners  taken  at 
Philliphaugh— Sir  William  RoUock,  Sir  Philip  Nisbet, 
and  Alexander  Ogilvie  of  Inverquharity — were  put  to 
death  mthin  the  city,  Rollock  on  28,  and  his  two  com- 
panions on  29  Oct.  i'hat  the  spectacle  of  the  execution 
of  these  unfortunate  royalists  was  a  pleasing  one  to  a 
large  number  of  the  citizens  there  can  be  no  reason  to 
doubt,  and  some  idea  may  be  obtained  of  the  bitter 
feeling  of  the  contending  parties,  when  we  remember 
the  remark  of  so  presumably  pious  a  man  as  the  Glasgow 
Professor  of  Divinity  for  the  time  being,  Mr  David  Dick- 
son, who,  when  he  heard  of  the  executions,  exclaimed, 
'  The  work  gangs  bonnily  on,"  a  saying  which  became 
proverbial,  and  was  long  significantly  used  in  Glasgow. 


GLASGOW 

Blontrose,  with  a  small  force  ho  had  suocoedod  in 
collecting,  made  a  demonstration  on  Glasgow  at  the 
time  in  the  hope  of  averting  the  fate  of  his  unhappy- 
friends,  but  he  had  not  sufficient  strength  to  accom- 
plish anything,  and  after  a  few  days  retreated  to 
Atliole. 

After  Charles  had  surrendered  to  the  Scots  and  had 
been  handed  over  to  the  English  army,  Scotland  be- 
came, when  too  late,  frightened  at  the  triumph  of  the 
ambitious  and  uncompromising  Independents  of  Eng- 
land, and  the  consequent  danger  to  its  beloved  Presby- 
terianism.  To  meet  the  supposed  danger,  levies  were 
ordered  by  the  Scottish  parliament ;  but  Glasgow,  in- 
fluenced by  the  clergy,  many  of  whom  preferred  the 
unknown  danger  of  the  ascendency  of  the  Independents 
to  the  known  danger  of  the  royal  power,  was  found 
amongst  the  number  of  those  contumacious  burghs  which 
declined  to  furnish  their  quota.  Provost  Stewart,  with 
the  other  magistrates  and  members  of  council,  were  in 
consequence  summoned  before  parliament,  imprisoned 
for  several  days,  and  deprived  of  their  olfices.  But  a 
heavier  infliction  still  awaited  them,  inasmuch  as  five 
regiments  of  horse  and  foot  were  sent  to  the  town,  with 
orders  that  they  should  be  quartered  exclusively  on  the 
magistrates,  members  of  council,  ministers,  members  of 
the  kirk-session,  and  their  friends.  Some  of  these 
gentlemen  were  burdened  \vith  10,  20,  and  30  soldiers 
each,  who  not  only  lived  on  the  best  the  place  could 
afford  in  the  way  of  meat,  brandy,  and  wine,  but  exacted 
from  their  compulsory  entertainers  their  daQy  pay  into 
the  bargain.  During  the  short  period  these  five  regi- 
ments '  sorned '  upon  the  inhabitants,  the  latter  sus- 
tained a  loss  of  £40,000  Sr'ots ;  and  Principal  Baillie 
pathetically  remarks  that  their  '  loss  and  danger  was 
not  so  great  by  James  Graham.'  The  failure  of  the 
expedition  and  the  defeat  at  Dunbar  are  matters  of 
history.  Shortly  after  the  latter  battle  the  Protector 
took  possession  of  Edinburgh,  and  thence  marched  to 
Glasgow  by  way  of  Kilsyth.  On  his  arrival  he  took 
up  his  residence  at  Silvercraigs  House,  which  stood  till 
about  twenty  years  ago  (though  Oliver's  levee  chamber 
had  latterly  degenerated  into  a  furniture  sale-room), 
on  the  S  side  of  the  Saltmarket  at  the  N  corner  of 
Steel  Street,  and  nearly  opposite  the  Bridgegate.  Find- 
ing the  magistrates  had  all  fled,  he  sent  for  Patrick  Gil- 
lespie, the  influential  minister  of  the  Outer  High  church, 
and  subsequently  principal  of  the  university,  whom  he 
hospitably  entertained,  and  then  treated  to  such  a  long 
and  fervent  prayer,  that  the  worthy  minister,  quite 
overcome,  gave  out  among  the  townsfolks  that  '  surely 
he  must  be  one  of  the  elect.'  On  the  following  Sunday 
Cromwell  made  a  formal  procession  to  the  cathedral  to 
hear  sermon.  Zachary  Boyd,  so  well  known  in  con- 
nection with  his  paraphrases,  minister  of  the  Barony 
parish  (who  was  one  of  those  courageous  enough  to 
remain),  occupied  the  pulpit  in  the  forenoon,  and,  in 
his  preaching,  boldly  and  severely  inveighed  against 
Cromwell  and  the  Independents.  The  Protector  him- 
self bore  it  patiently,  but  his  followers  were  angry. 
'  Shall  I  pistol  the  scoundrel  ? '  whispered  his  secretary 
Thurloe.  '  No,  no,' replied  Cromwell,  '  we  will  manage 
him  another  way. '  And  so  he  invited  the  bold  divine 
to  sup  with  him,  and  concluded  the  entertainment  with 
a  prayer  of  some  hours'  duration,  which  is  said  by  con- 
temporary chroniclers  to  have  lasted  till  three  o'clock 
in  the  morning,  and  Boyd  left  rather  pleased,  no  doubt, 
than  otherwise.  He  remained  in  Glasgow  for  only  a 
few  days,  but  visited  it  again  on  18  April  1651,  when 
he  had  a  more  friendly  reception,  and,  along  with 
General  Lambert,  discussed  matters  with  Mr  James 
Guthrie  and  Mr  Patrick  Gillespie.  This  time  he  re- 
mained ten  days.  On  both  occasions  his  conduct  was 
distinguished  by  a  great  degree  of  moderation,  and  testi- 
mony is  borne  to  this  by  those  not  otherwise  inclined 
to  speak  favourably  of  him.  His  visit  to  Glasgow  was, 
indeed,  beneficial  in  more  ways  than  one,  for  some  of 
his  soldiers,  tradesmen  who  had  been  called  away  from 
their  peaceful  callings  by  the  frenzy  and  enthusiasm  of 
the  times,  ultimately  settled  in  Glasgow,  and  contri- 


GLASGOW 

buted  to  foster  the  spirit  of  trade  and  to  introduce  im- 
provements in  some  of  the  handicrafts. 

In  its  previous  history  Glasgow  had  more  than  ance 
suffered  by  fire,  privation,  and  pestilence ;  but  on 
Thursday,  17  Jane  1652,  a  conflagration  broke  out, 
which  exceeded  all  former  visitations  of  the  kind  in 
its  extent  and  in  its  painful  effects  upon  the  citizens. 
It  began  about  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  on  the  E 
side  of  High  Street.  While  everybody  was  busy  there, 
some  sparks,  carried  by  the  wind,  set  fire  to  houses  on 
the  W  side  of  the  Saltmarket,  where  the  conflagration 
ran  from  house  to  house  with  great  rapidity,  spread- 
ing to  both  sides  of  the  street  and  into  the  Tron- 
gate,  Gallowgate,  and  Bridgegate.  It  burned  for  about 
eighteen  hours,  and  on  the  following  Sunday  it  again 
broke  out  in  the  Trongate,  and  burned  for  about 
five  hours.  It  is  said  to  have  been  caused  by  intense 
heat ;  and  Law,  in  his  Memorials,  says  that  the  great 
spread  was  caused  by  the  frequent  changes  of  wind  that 
took  place  during  its  progress.  About  a  third  of  the 
city  was  destroyed  ('  fourscore  bye-lanes  and  alleys, 
with  all  the  shops,  besides  eighty  warehouses,'  according 
to  the  councU  report) ;  1000  persons  were  burned  out ; 
and,  from  the  destruction  of  property  and  the  loss  of 
furniture  by  fire  or  by  theft,  many  previously  in  com- 
fortable circumstances  were  cast  destitute  on  the  world. 
The  wretched  inhabitants — some  through  necessity, 
others  through  fear — were,  for  many  days  and  nights, 
compelled  to  encamp  in  the  open  fields,  and,  altogether, 
the  calamity  was  the  worst  that  had  ever  befallen  Glas- 
gow. The  loss  was  estimated  at  £100,000,  a  very  large 
sum  in  those  days,  and  contributions  were  made  for  the 
sufferers  from  all  parts  of  the  country.  Like  London, 
however,  under  a  similar  afliiction,  Glasgow  rose  from 
her  ashes  purified  and  beautified,  and  the  ruined  houses, 
which  had  been  built  or  faced  with  wood,  were  replaced 
by  substantial  stone  edifices,  which  were  constructed  in 
a  more  open  and  commodious  manner  than  the  buildings 
they  replaced.  It  is  recorded  that  after  this  fire  the 
magistrates  ordered  the  church  doors  to  be  opened,  not 
to  give  the  unfortunate  people  shelter,  but  for  the  con- 
venience of  those  who  had  no  chambers  to  retii'*  to 
'  for  making  of  their  devotions.'  In  1677  another  great 
fire  took  place  in  Glasgow,  which  destroy-ed  136  houses, 
and  rendered  between  500  and  600  families  homeless. 
It  originated  at  the  head  of  the  Saltmarket,  near  the 
Cross,  and  was  caused  by  a  smith's  apprentice,  who  had 
been  beaten  by  his  master,  and  who,  in  revenge,  set  fire 
to  his  smithy  during  the  night.  Law,  in  his  Memorials, 
says,  '  The  heat  was  so  great  that  it  fyred  the  horoledge 
of  the  tolbooth,'  the  present  Cross  steeple.  There  were 
some  prisoners  in  it  at  the  time — among  others  the 
laird  of  Kersland,  who  had  been  concerned  in  the  Pent- 
land  rising  ;  but  they  were  rescued  by  the  people,  who 
broke  open  the  tolbooth  doors  and  set  them  free. 

The  restoration  of  Charles  II.,  in  1660,  was  celebrated 
in  Glasgow  with  a  good  deal  of  outward  respect  and 
enthusiasm ;  but  it  is  pretty  certain  that  most  of  the 
people  rejoiced  '  that  the  King  had  come  to  his  own 
again '  simply  because  it  was  fashionable  to  do  so,  and 
because  the  absence  of  health-drinking  and  bonfires 
might  give  a  character  of  disaffection  to  the  place. 
With  a  full  remembrance  of  the  troubles  and  desolations 
of  the  time  of  the  first  Charles,  the  citizens  were  well 
contented  with  the  order  and  security  which  the  Pro- 
tector had  established  among  them,  and  would  by  no 
means  have  been  disinclined  to  a  continuance  of  the 
government  upon  similar  principles.  The  F'^'^byterians 
had  therefore  no  high  expectations  from  thff  new  order 
of  things,  and  they  were  ere  long  confirmed  in  their 
misgivings.  It  soon  became  apparent  that  the  policy 
of  Charles  II.  would  be  similar  to  that  of  his  father  in 
his  efforts  to  force  Episcopacy  upon  an  unwilling  people  ; 
and,  as  Glasgow  was  the  headquarters  of  the  Presby- 
terians in  the  West,  the  city  shared  in  all  the  pains  and 
persecutions  of  that  iron  time.  The  King  having  ap- 
pointed Mr  Andrew  Fairfoul,  minister  of  Duns,  to  be 
archbishop  of  Glasgow,  he  arrived  in  Edinburgh  in 
April  1662,  having  been  previouslv  consecrated  in  West- 
Ill 


GLASGOW 

minster  Abbey.  Despite  his  efforts,  and  notwithstand- 
ing the  civil  power  with  which  he  was  armed,  the 
existing  clergy  and  laity  in  Glasgow,  with  trifling  ex- 
ceptions, refused  to  conform  to  the  new  order  of  things, 
and  the  Earl  of  Middleton  came  to  Glasgow,  on  26 
Sept.  1662,  with  a  committee  of  the  Scottish  Privy 
Council  to  enforce  Episcopacy.  They  were  well  re- 
ceived, and  proceeded  to  investigate  the  complaint  of 
the  archbishop — that  none  of  the  ministers  who  had 
entered  the  Church  since  1649  had  acknowledged  his 
authority  as  bishop,  and  his  prayer  that  the  council 
should  issue  and  enforce  an  act  and  proclamation  banish- 
ing all  those  clergymen  from  their  houses,  parishes,  and 
presbyteries,  unless  they  should,  before  a  certain  date, 
appear  and  receive  collation  from  him  as  their  bishop. 
The  matter  was  considered  at  a  meeting  of  the  Privy 
Council,  held  in  the  fore-hall  of  the  college  on  1  Oct., 
and  it  was  resolved — Sir  James  Lockhart  of  Lee  dis- 
senting, and  declaring  that  the  act  would  desolate  the 
land  and  excite  to  fever  heat  the  dislike  and  indignation 
with  which  the  prelates  had  already  begun  to  be  re- 
garded— that  all  such  ministers  were  to  remove  from 
their  parishes  within  a  month,  and  the  people  were  not 
to  acknowledge  them  as  their  ministers,  nor  to  repair  to 
hear  their  sermous.  The  meeting  was,  according  to 
Wodrow,  known  as  '  the  drunken  meeting  at  Glasgow, 
and  it  was  affirmed  that  all  present  were  flustered  with 
drink  save  Sir  James  Lockhart  of  Lee. '  In  their  subse- 
quent visits  to  the  other  towns  of  the  West,  they  were 
not  much  better,  for  it  is  recorded  that  in  one  of  their 
debauches  they  drank  the  devil's  health  at  midnight  at 
the  Cross  of  Ayr  ;  yet  to  such  debauchees  was  entrusted 
a  task  that  resulted  in  more  than  400  Presbyterian 
ministers  being  ejected  from  their  parishes,  and  led  to  all 
the  wild  work  of  persecution  that  followed. 

Early  in  1678  the  committee  of  council  returned  to 
Glasgow,  and  had  a  sederunt  of  ten  days.  They  were 
accompanied  by  a  band  of  Highlanders,  about  5000  in 
number,  who  came  to  be  kno'ivn  as  the  Highland  Host, 
and  whose  presence  was  intended  to  enforce  the  wishes 
of  the  committee.  They  arrived  in  Glasgow  on  13 
Jan.  1678  in  the  time  of  public  worship,  and  were 
quartered  on  the  inhabitants.  Their  presence  was  only 
to  be  got  rid  of  by  the  subscription  of  a  bond  by  which 
the  heritors,  and  the  better  classes  of  the  community, 
bound  themselves  that  they,  their  wives,  families,  and 
servants,  with  their  tenants,  cottars,  etc.,  would  not  be 
present  at  any  of  the  field  preachings,  or  hold  any  com- 
munication with  the  '  outed '  ministers.  Though  this 
made  men  in  prominent  stations  responsible  for  the 
doings  of  hundreds  of  people  over  whom  they  had  no 
control,  yet  such  was  the  desire  to  get  rid  of  the  plunder- 
ing and  extortionate  Highland  Host,  that  the  bond  was 
subscribed  by  the  provost,  bailies,  members  of  council, 
and  the  leading  men  of  the  city  to  the  number  of  153. 
After  their  ten  days'  stay  in  Glasgow  they  passed  on  to 
Ayrshire,  where  damage  to  the  amount  of  £137,499 
Scots  was  done,  and  then  as  the  Covenanters  would  not 
rise  to  give  colour  to  a  charge  of  rebellion,  nor  yet  sign 
the  bond,  except  in  very  insignificant  numbers,  the 
plunderers  were  sent  to  their  homes.  '  When  the  High- 
landers,' says  Sir  Walter  Scott  in  his  Tales  of  a  Grand- 
father, '  went  back  to  their  hills,  which  was  in  Feb.  1678, 
they  appeared  as  if  returning  from  the  sack  of  some  be- 
sieged town.  They  carried  with  them  plate,  merchant- 
goods,  webs  of  linen  and  of  cloth,  quantities  of  wearing 
apparel  and  household  furniture,  and  a  good  number  of 
horses  to  bear  their  plunder.'  As  they  were  returning, 
the  Glasgow  people  had,  however,  an  opportunity  of  re- 
venge, for  about  2000  of  the  Highlanders  had  to  return 
by  way  of  Glasgow,  and  when  they  arrived  on  the  S,  or 
Gorbals  side,  the  Clyde  was  so  swollen  that  it  was  un- 
fordable.  Thus  favoured  by  chance,  the  students  of  the 
college,  and  many  of  the  inhabitants,  who,  either  by 
themselves  or  friends,  had  suflFered  from  the  former 
ravages  of  the  host,  blocked  the  bridge,  and  opposed 
their  passage.  Only  40  of  the  Celts  were  allowed  to  pass 
at  a  time,  and  these  were  led  along  and  dismissed  by  the 
TiT'est  Port,  after  they  had  been  deprived  of  their  plunder. 
112 


GLASGOW 

A  building  near  the  bridge  is  said  to  have  been  nearly 
filled  with  the  '  pots,  pans,  bed-cloths,  wearing  clothes," 
coats,  cloaks,  etc.,  that  were  taken. 

After  the  victory  of  the  Covenanters  at  Deumolog  a 
party  of  them  marched  to  Glasgow,  and  attempted  to 
take  it  from  Graham  of  Claverhouse,  who,  with  the 
Koyal  forces,  had  retired  thither.  In  anticipation  of 
an  attack  the  streets  had  been  barricaded,  and  though 
the  Covenanters,  attacking  by  the  Gallowgate  and 
Vennel,  fought  bravely,  they  were  repulsed.  Their 
dead  were  most  inhumanly  left  lying  in  the  streets,  it  is 
said,  by  Claverhouse's  express  orders.  After  the  battle 
of  Bothwell  Brig,  the  Duke  of  Monmouth  was  eagerly 
pressed  by  some  of  his  ofiicers  to  burn  Glasgow,  or  at 
least  to  give  it  up  to  three  hours'  plunder,  but  he  would 
sanction  neither,  and  thus  Glasgow  escaped  what  meant 
utter  ruin.  In  March  1684  a  number  of  Covenanting 
martyrs  suffered  death  at  the  Cross,  their  heads  being 
afterwards  cut  off  and  placed  on  the  tolbooth.  They 
were  buried  on  the  N  side  of  the  cathedral.  Some 
others  suffered  at  the  foot  of  the  Howgate,  where  the 
martyrs'  fountain  stands.  The  tolbooth  was  so  cro\vded 
with  prisoners  at  the  time,  that  they  had  to  sleep  by 
turns,  and  a  great  many  of  the  poor  people,  convicted 
without  evidence,  were  banished  to  the  plantations. 
When  James  II.  succeeded  to  the  throne,  the  Council 
sent  to  the  King  their  expressions  of  '  sincere  joy,'  and, 
when  late  in  the  end  of  Oct.  1688  he  was  in  difiicul- 
ties,  a  body  of  1200  men  was  raised  for  his  assistance  ; 
but  these,  refusing  to  obey  the  magistrates,  never  left 
the  city,  and  had  to  be  disbanded  in  January  1689.  On 
the  24th  of  the  same  month,  a  loyal  address  was  pre- 
pared to  Prince  William  of  Orange,  and,  still  later,  a 
body  of  500  men  (the  foundation  of  the  regiment  now 
known  as  the  Cameronians)  embodied  according  to  tra- 
dition in  one  day,  was  placed  under  the  command  of  the 
Earl  of  Argyll,  and  sent  to  Edinburgh  to  assist  in  guard- 
ing the  Estates  then  engaged  in  deliberating  upon  the 
settlement  of  the  Crown  in  favour  of  WUliam  and  Mary. 

After  William's  accession,  when  the  Darien  scheme 
was  projected,  Glasgow,  which  had  already  experienced 
to  some  extent  the' advantages  of  commerce,  entered  into 
the  speculation  with  great  alacrity.  The  Council,  on 
behalf  of  the  burgh,  took  stock  to  the  value  of  £3000 
sterling  ;  the  citizens  subscribed  largely  of  their  means 
— many  of  them  tlieir  all ;  and  not  a  few  embarked  per- 
sonally in  the  expedition.  The  last  of  these  sailed  from 
Rothesay  Bay  on  14  Sept.  1699,  the  four  frigates  that 
went  carrying  1200  emigrants,  among  whom  was  the 
last  of  the  old  family  of  Stewart  of  Minto,  once  the 
municipal  chiefs  of  Glasgow,  and  whose  decay  has  al- 
ready been  referred  to.  The  unhappy  sacrifice  of  the 
scheme  to  English  jealousy,  and  William's  faithlessness 
are  well  known.  Of  all  the  emigrants,  but  a  score  or  two 
of  broken-down  and  beggared  men  ever  reached  their 
native  land  again,  and  hundreds  of  families  at  home, 
who  had  been  in  afliuent  circumstances,  were  ruined. 
The  news  reached  Glasgow  about  the  middle  of  1700, 
and  so  severely  did  the  city  suffer  from  the  shock,  that 
it  was  not  till  18  years  after  that  her  merchants  again 
possessed  ships  of  their  own. 

Here,  on  the  eve  of  the  Union  of  the  two  kingdoms, 
which,  disastrous  as  it  was  in  its  first  results,  has  since 
tended  to  promote  so  greatly  the  prosperity  of  the 
country,  we  may  again  pause  and  consider  the  progress 
that  Glasgow  had  made  since  the  time  of  the  Reforma- 
tion, and  that  notwithstanding  the  famine,  fires,  plagues, 
and  disasters  that  we  have  recounted.  'The  city  seems 
not  to  have  extended  its  limits  very  far  beyond  the  earlier 
bounds,  though,  from  the  great  increase  in  population, 
the  old  parts  must  have  been  much  more  closely  built, 
and  spaces  formerly  open  covered  with  houses.  Tin  Dic- 
tionnaire  Qeographique,  published  at  Paris  in  1705,  say." 
it  '  was  large  euough,  but  thinly  peopled,'  and  Clelland 
asserts  that  at  the  Union,  Glasgow  had  not  extended 
beyond  its  old  ports,  viz.  : — on  the  E,  the  Gallowgate 
Port,  near  St  Mungo's  Lane  ;  on  the  W,  the  West  Port, 
at  the  head  of  Stockwell  Street ;  on  the  S,  the  Water 
Port,  near  the  old  bridge  ;  on  the  N,  the  Stable  Green 


GLASGOW 

Port,  at  the  Bisliops'  Palace  ;  on  the  NW,  Rottenrow 
Port  ;  while  all  the  adjoining  ground  now  occupied  by 
Bell  Street,  Candleriggs,  King  Street,  and  Princes  Street 
was  occupied  by  corn-fields  ;  but  yet,  notwithstanding 
this,  there  had  been  a  very  marked  change  in  its  position 
and  condition.  As  we  have  seen,  it  was,  at  the  time  of 
the  Reformation,  eleventh  on  the  roll  of  Scottish  burghs, 
and  was  stented  for  £13,  10s.  Scots  ;  in  1695  it  stood 
second  (Edinburgh  being  its  only  superior),  and  was 
stented  for  £1800  Scots.  The  population,  which  at 
the  Reformation  was  about  ■1500,  had,  by  1600,  become 
about  7000.  In  1660  this  had  gi-own  to  14,678,  but  the 
troubles  of  the  next  28  years  had  such  an  injurious 
effect  that,  in  1688,  this  had  decreased  to  11,948.  In 
1701  there  were  9994  '  examinable  persons  '  recorded  in 
the  city,  and  this  name  must  have  applied  apparently  to 
younger  people  than  would  now  be  termed  adults,  for  a 
little  later  (1708)  the  total  population  is  returned  at 
12,766.  A  new  tolbootli  had  been  erected  near  the 
Cross  in  1626,  superseding  the  old  one  at  the  foot  of 
the  High  Street.  It  was  a  fine  picturesque  building, 
is  described  by  a  contemporary  ^vriter  as  '  a  very  sump- 
tuous, regulated,  uniform  fabric,  large  and  lofty,  most 
industriously  and  artificially  carved  from  the  very  founda- 
tion to  the  superstructure,  to  the  great  admiration  of 
strangers,' and  as,  'without  exception,  the  paragon  of 
beauty  in  the  west. '  All  that  now  remains  of  both  struc- 
tures is  the  Cross  steeple,  which  has  been  happily  pre- 
served from  the  destruction  that  has  overtaken  so  many 
of  the  old  buildings  of  Glasgow,  though,  in  1814,  it  had 
a  narrow  escape,  and  such  a  fate  was  only  averted  by  a 
majority  of  votes  in  the  council  of  the  day.  The  Cross 
itself,  which  had  replaced  the  older  one  at  the  end  of 
Rotten  Row,  was  removed  in  1659  as  '  altogether  de- 
faced,' and  all  trace  of  it  is  lost.  The  houses  along  the 
streets  leading  from  the  Cross  had  piazzas.  Defoe, 
writing  of  GlasgoAv,  in  1723,  says  '  The  City  consists  of 
Four  principal  Streets  in  the  Form  of  a  Cross,  with  the 
Town-House  and  Market  Place  in  the  Middle,  where  as 
you  walk  you  see  the  whole  Town  at  once.  The  Houses 
are  of  Free  Stone,  of  an  Equal  height,  and  supported 
with  Pillars,  and  the  Streets  being  spacious  and  well 
pav'd,  add  to  the  Beauty  of  the  Place.'  He  also  adds 
that  '  this  City  is  sti'ictly  Presbyterian,  and  is  the  best 
affected  to  the  Government  of  any  in  Scotland.' 

It  is  a  somewhat  curious  contrast  to  the  present  state 
of  affairs  that  in  the  17th  and  the  beginning  of  the  18th 
centui-ies  Glasgow  was  noted  for  its  beauty.  One  of 
Cromwell's  soldiers  describes  it,  in  1650,  as  'not  so 
big  or  rich  yet,'  to  all  'a  much  sweeter  and  more  de- 
lyghtful  place  than  Edinburgh.'  Another  English 
traveller  named  Franck,  whose  opinion  of  the  tolbooth 
has  been  already  given,  and  who  visited  the  city  a  little 
later,  speaks  in  high  terms  of  '  the  splendour  and  dig- 
nity of  this  city  of  Glasgow,  which  surpasseth  most,  if 
not  all,  the  corporations  in  Scotland,'  and  also  mentions 
■with  approval  '  the  exact  decorum  in  every  societj'. ' 
This  praise  may  be  accepted  with  the  less  hesitation 
when  we  consider  that  the  writer  was  not  on  the  whole 
favourably  impressed  with  Scotland,  and  did  not  hesi- 
tate to  say  so.  'A  satirist,'  says  Sir  Walter  Scott, 
'  %vith  regard  to  every  other  place  Franck  describes 
Glasgow  as  the  "nonsuch  of  Scotland,"  where  an 
"English  florist  may  pick  up  a  posie."'  Merer,  who 
wrote  in  1689,  says,  in  the  work  already  quoted,  that 
'  Glasgow  has  the  reputation  of  the  finest  town  in  Scot- 
land, not  excepting  Edinburgh  ; '  and  Defoe,  in  his 
Journey  Through  Scotland,  published  in  1723,  says 
almost  enthusiastically,  '  Glasgow  is  the  beautifuUest 
little  City  I  have  seen  in  Britain  ;  it  stands  deliciously 
on  the  banks  of  the  river  Clyde,  over  which  there  is  a 
fair  Stone  Bridge  of  Eight  Arches.'  And  in  a  subsequent 
edition  he  says  still  more  in  its  praise,  '  the  four  princi- 
pal streets  are  the  fairest  for  breadth  and  the  finest  built 
that  I  have  ever  seen  in  one  city  together.  The  houses 
are  all  of  stone,  and  generally  uniform  in  height  as  well 
as  in  front.  The  lower  stories  for  the  most  part  stand 
on  vast  square  Doric  columns  with  arches  which  open 
into  the  shops,  adding  to  the  strength  as  well  as  beauty 


GLASGOW 

of  the  building.  In  a  word,  'tis  one  of  the  cleanliest, 
most  beautiful,  and  best  built  cities  in  Great  Britain.' 
Defoe's  description  is  later  than  the  Union,  and  about 
the  time  when  it  was  beginning  to  bear  fruit,  but 
the  others  are  earlier,  and  yet  alike  they  give  us  a 
picture  of  Glasgow  still  rural,  but  beginning  to  have  the 
germs  of  its  future  greatness  in  its  increasing  trade,  which 
was,  in  Defoe's  time,  quickly  outgrowing  the  little  com- 
mencement that  had,  in  the  beginning  of  the  18th  cen- 
tury, been  made  in  the  manufacture  of  tobacco,  the 
refining  of  sugar,  and  the  making  of  soap. 

The  growing  importance  of  the  city  is  evident  from 
the  fact  that  in  1702  the  provost,  Hugh  Montgomerie 
of  Bushy,  was  one  of  the  commissioners  appointed  to  go 
to  London  to  carry  on  negotiations  for  a  treaty  of  Union, 
and  the  council  agreed  that  the  city  should  bear  the  ex- 
pense of  his  journey.  Notwithstanding  this  little  mark 
of  attention,  the  Union  proposal  was  received  by  the 
inhabitants  of  Glasgow,  particularly  by  the  lower  orders, 
with  as  much  bitterness  as  elsewhere  throughout  the 
country.  The  populace  of  Glasgow,  with  a  pet  griev- 
ance of  their  own  because,  instead  of  returning  a  mem- 
ber of  parliament  for  themselves,  they  were  in  future 
only  to  share  one  with  Dumbarton,  Renfrew,  and 
Rutherglen,  became  so  much  excited  that  the  magis- 
trates deemed  it  necessary  to  issue  a  proclamation  that 
not  more  than  three  persons  should  assemble  together 
after  sunset.  A  most  injudicious  and  inflammatory  ser- 
mon, preached  by  the  Rev.  James  Clark,  minister  of 
the  Tron  Church,  on  7  Nov.  1706,  a  sacramental  Fast- 
day,  was  regarded  as  a  direct  encouragement  and  injunc- 
tion to  insurrection,  and  caused  the  murmui-s  of  discon- 
tent, to  which  the  opposition  had  been  hitherto  con- 
fined, to  rise  into  open  violence.  Within  two  hours 
after  the  sermon  drums  were  beat  through  the  streets, 
and  the  people,  gathering  in  immense  numbers,  fairly 
overturned  the  authority  of  the  magistrates.  Finding 
that  the  magistrates  and  council  refused  their  request 
to  present  a  remonstrance  to  parliament  on  the  subject 
of  the  Union,  they  attacked  the  council-house  and  the 
residence  of  the  provost,  Mr  Aird.  After  a  short  lull 
there  was  a  fresh  outbreak,  when  the  mob  disarmed  the 
town-guard,  stormed  the  tolbooth,  and  seized  the  town's 
arms,  which  consisted  of  250  halberts.  With  these 
they  marched  about  the  streets,  forcing  their  way  into 
the  houses  of  those  supposed  to  be  favourable  to  the 
Union,  searching  for  arms,  and  plundering  at  the  same 
time.  The  house  of  the  provost  was  riSed,  and  he  him- 
self, attacked  on  the  street,  only  escaped  with  his  life  by 
timely  concealment  and  subsequent  flight  to  Edinburgh. 
The  rioters,  who  had  adopted  a  sort  of  rude  military 
system,  then  formed  the  bold  resolution  of  marching 
to  the  capital  and  dispersing  the  parliament,  and  they 
actually  set  out  for  this  purpose  under  the  leadership  of  a 
Jacobite  publican  named  Finlay.  Starting  with  a  body 
of  men  by  no  means  numerous,  Finlay  was  met  at  Kil- 
syth by  the  intelligence  that  cavair}'  and  infantry  were 
already  on  their  way  from  Edinburgh  to  /ut  down  the 
riot.  At  first,  nothing  dismayed,  he  determined  to 
fight,  and  sent  to  Glasgow  for  400  men  who  had  been 
left  behind  ;  but  as  they  did  not  come,  the  disappointed 
leader  and  his  companions  returned  to  Glasgow,  and, 
laying  down  their  arms,  separated.  This  was  the  end  of 
disturbances  that  had  lasted  for  four  weeks,  and  the 
publican  and  some  of  the  other  leaders  were  arrested 
immediately  after  and  carried  to  Edinburgh.  Techni- 
cally they  had  forfeited  their  lives,  as  being  guilty  of 
high  treason ;  and  it  says  much  for  the  strength  and 
moderation  of  Queen  Anne's  government  that  shortly 
after  the  Union  Act  passed  into  law,  they  were  all 
liberated  without  further  punishment  than  their  tem- 
porary imprisonment.  Had  there  been  competent 
leaders  the  insurrection  might  have  proved  formidable, 
but  no  man  of  mark  and  influence  in  the  W  of  Scotland 
had  any  connection  with  it,  and  but  a  very  short  time 
elapsed  before  the  Glasgow  citizens  became  fully  alive 
to  the  advantages  the  Union  had  brought  them  in  the 
opening  of  the  American  trade,  etc.  ;  in  fact  we  may 
almost  say  that  it  was  at  this  time  that  Glasgow  entered 

113 


GLASGOW 


GLASGOW 


upon  that  successful  career  of  industry  and  enterprise 
■which,  in  due  course,  rendered  it  the  chief  seat  of  the 
commerce  and  manufactures  of  Scotland. 

The  rebellion  of  1715  did  not  much  affect  Glasgow, 
excepting  in  so  far  as  it  gave  the  city  an  opportunity  of 
displaying  its  liberality  and  loyalty  and  its  sincere  at- 
tachment to  the  principles  of  the  revolution  of  1688. 
The  citizens  raised  a  regiment  of  600  men,  which  they 
drilled  and  maintained  at  their  own  expense,  paying 
the  common  men  at  the  rate  of  8d.  per  day.  This  regi- 
ment was  placed  at  the  disposal  of  the  government,  and 
it  rendered  good  service  by  performing  the  important 
duty  of  guarding  Stirling  Castle,  town,  and  bridge, 
whOe  the  Duke  of  Argyll  marched  northward  to  meet 
the  Highlanders  under  the  Earl  of  Mar  at  Sheriffmuir. 
In  the  meantime  the  inhabitants  had  zealously  provided 
for  the  safety  of  the  city  by  constructing  rude  fortifica- 
tions, protected  by  a  ditch  12  feet  wide  and  6  deep. 
The  town's  accounts  at  the  time  contain  numerous 
entries  of  payment  to  artificers  and  labourers,  who  were 
employed  in  the  operations  of  forming  the  trenches  and 
barricades,  of  planting  the  guns  which  they  already 
possessed,  of  the  freight  of  eight  great  guns  from  Port 
Glasgow,  etc.  On  5  Dec.  the  Duke  of  Argyll  came 
to  Glasgow  and  took  up  his  lodgings  with  Mr  Campbell 
of  Shawfield,  and  on  the  following  day,  accompanied  by 
the  magistrates  and  several  of  the  nobility  and  gentry, 
he  reviewed  the  troops  then  lying  in  the  town  and  in- 
spected the  defensive  preparations  made  by  the  inhabi- 
tants. Although  the  war  did  not  come  to  their  own 
doors,  the  rebellion  was  nevertheless  a  costly  affair  to 
the  citizens  ;  and  amongst  other  grievances  we  find  the 
magistrates  complaining  to  the  Duke  of  Argyll  that  they 
had  to  maintain  and  guard  353  rebel  prisoners,  'who 
are  lying  in  the  town's  hand  and  in  custody  in  the 
castle  prison '  (the  old  bishop's  palace,  which  could  not 
have  been  a  very  secure  prison,  for  they  required  a  guard 
of  about  100  men).  Notwithstanding,  however,  all  the 
heavy  charges  to  which  it  was  subjected,  the  city  could 
afford  to  be  grateful  to  those  who  had  assisted  it  in  time 
of  trial.  In  1716,  on  the  suppression  of  the  rebellion,  an 
order  was  made  that  '  a  silver  tankard,  weighting  forty- 
eight  unce,  thirteen  drop,  at  7s.  sterling  per  unce  ;  and 
a  sett  of  suggar  boxes,  weighting  nineteen  unce,  fourteen 
drop,  at  8s.  per  unce ;  and  a  server  wing,  weighting 
thirty-one  unce  and  twelve  drop,  at  6s.  4d.  per  unce,' 
be  presented  to  Colonel  William  Maxwell  of  Cardonald 
'  as  a  mark  of  the  town's  favour  and  respect  towards  him 
for  his  good  service  in  taking  upon  him  the  regulation 
and  management  of  all  the  guards  that  were  kept  in  the 
city  during  the  rebellion  and  confusions  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood. ' 

Within  a  few  years  after  the  rebellion,  viz.,  in  1725, 
a  riot  broke  out  in  the  city,  which  was  so  painful  and 
fatal  in  its  consequences,  that  for  half  a  century  after  its 
occurrence  it  called  up  to  every  son  of  St  Mungo  re- 
miniscences of  the  most  bitter  and  exciting  kind.  This 
disturbance  was  caused  by  the  imposition  of  the  first 
malt  tax.  As  most  of  the  people  then  drank  beer,  the 
new  duty  was  by  no  means  very  popular  ;  and  in  Glas- 
gow, on  23  June,  the  day  on  which  the  operation  of  the 
tax  began,  the  mob  arose,  obstructed  the  excisemen,  and 
assumed  such  a  threatening  attitude,  that  on  the  evening 
of  the  next  day  Captain  Bushell  entered  the  town  with 
two  companies  of  Lord  Deloraine's  regiment  of  foot. 
This  did  not,  however,  prevent  the  mob  from  assailing 
the  house  of  Daniel  Campbell  of  Shawfield,  who  was 
then  M.P.  for  the  Glasgow  district  of  burghs,  and  who 
had  rendered  himself  particularly  obnoxious  in  connec- 
tion with  the  matter  by  his  support  of  the  tax.  The 
house  stood  in  the  Trongate  on  the  site  of  Glassford 
Street,  and  was  by  far  the  finest  in  tbe  city,  but  the 
rioters  completely  dismantled  it  and  destroyed  the  fur- 
niture. Tlie  magistrates,  not  dreading  such  acts  of 
violence,  had  retired  to  a  tavern  to  spend  the  evening, 
when  about  eleven  o'clock  p.m.  tidings  were  brought 
them  of  the  work  of  havoc  and  demolition  then  in  pro- 
gress, while  at  the  same  time  a  sergeant  came  from 
Bushell  to  inquire  if  he  should  beat  to  arms ;  but  the 
114 


provost,  who  appears  to  have  been  either  a  timid  man 
or  one  averse  to  proceed  to  extremities,  declined  the 
proffered  military  aid.  Next  day  the  mob  was  still  in  a 
very  excited  state,  and  so  annoyed  Bushell's  sentinels 
by  throwing  stones  at  them,  that  the  captain  ordered  out 
all  his  men  and  formed  a  hollow  square  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  guardhouse,  at  the  SW  corner  of  Candleriggs. 
This  movement  was  followed  by  another  shower  of  stones 
directed  against  the  soldiers,  and  Captain  Bushell,  with- 
out any  authority  from  the  civil  power,  ordered  his  men 
to  fire,  when  two  persons  in  the  crowd  were  killed  on 
the  spot  and  others  wounded.  This  so  roused  the  in- 
habitants that,  thirsting  for  vengeance,  they  assaUed 
the  town-house  magazine,  carried  forth  the  arms,  and 
rang  the  fire-bell  to  arouse  the  city.  The  provost — 
Miller — being  alarmed  at  the  probable  results  of  a 
further  collision  between  the  "lilitary  and  the  people, 
requested  Bushell  to  remove  his  soldiers,  which  he  ac- 
cordingly did  in  the  direction  of  Dumbarton  Castle. 
This  did  not,  however,  avert  further  catastrophe,  for 
the  mob,  still  excited  and  inflamed,  followed  on  the 
line  of  retreat  in  great  force,  and  by-and-by  began  to 
act  upon  the  offensive,  when  the  captain  again  ordered 
his  men  to  fire,  and  several  persons  fell.  In  all  there 
were  nine  persons  killed  and  seventeen  wounded  in  this 
unfortunate  affair,  and  as  usually  happens  in  such  cases 
it  was  not  merely  the  assailants  or  rabble  who  suffered, 
but  many  respectable  persons  were  shot  down  who  hap- 
pened to  be  in  the  crowd  or  its  neighbourhood  either 
accidentally  or  from  motives  of  curiosity.  The  military 
reached  the  castle  of  Dumbarton  in  safety,  with  the 
exception  of  two  of  the  soldiers  who  were  captured  by 
the  mob,  and  only  one  of  whom  suffered  any  ill-treat- 
ment. Previous  to  the  attack  on  his  house  Mr  Camp- 
bell had  removed  with  his  family  to  his  country-house 
at  Woodhall,  about  8  miles  distant  from  the  city, 
whither  he  had  gone  on  22  June.  It  has  been  asserted 
that  private  threats  or  hints  had  reached  him  of  the 
coming  attack,  and  that,  had  he  given  this  information 
in  sufficient  time  to  the  magistrates,  all  the  unhappy 
mischief  might  have  been  prevented.  As  soon  as  word 
of  the  serious  nature  of  the  disturbances  reached  head- 
quarters. General  Wade  set  out  with  a  considerable 
force  of  horse,  foot,  and  artillery,  and  took  possession 
of  the  city.  He  was  accompanied  by  Duncan  Forbes  of 
CuUoden,  the  Lord  Advocate,  who  proceeded  to  make 
an  investigation  into  the  case,  the  result  of  which  was 
that  nineteen  persons  were  apprehended  and  delivered 
over  to  Captain  Bushell,  and  by  him  and  the  two  com- 
panies under  his  command  they  were  taken  to  Edinburgh 
and  lodged  in  the  castle.  On  the  same  day,  the  16th  of 
July,  the  whole  of  the  magistrates,  from  the  provost 
down  to  the  deacon-convener — including  even  some  who 
had  been  absent  from  Glasgow  during  the  time  of  the 
riots — were  apprehended  at  the  instance  of  the  Lord 
Advocate,  and  imprisoned  first  in  their  own  tolbooth 
and  then  in  Edinburgh  Castle,  whither  they  were 
escorted  by  a  considerable  body  of  horse  and  foot.  The 
charge  against  them  was  that  they  had  favoured  the 
riots  and  winked  at  the  destruction  of  Campbell's  house, 
but  it  is  plain  that  the  utmost  that  can  be  laid  to  their 
charge  was  want  of  due  preparation  and  energy  in  re- 
pressing the  disturbance.  After  one  day's  detention 
the  Lords  of  Justiciary  granted  their  application  for 
bail,  and  they  were  liberated  and  set  out  on  their  return 
to  Glasgow.  Six  miles  from  the  city  they  were  met  by 
about  200  of  the  inhabitants,  who  escorted  them  home 
with  every  demonstration  of  respect,  amid  the  joyous 
ringing  of  bells.  The  magistrates  were  afterwards  freed 
from  blame,  but  of  the  nineteen  persons  of  inferior 
rank  who  had  been  arrested,  two  were  banished  for  ever, 
while  nine  were  whipped  through  the  streets  of  Glasgow, 
and  eight  were  liberated  after  considerable  terms  of  de- 
tention. An  attempt  was  made  by  the  magistrates  to 
bring  Bushell  to  trial  for  the  murder  of  nine  of  the 
citizens,  but  he  was  screened  by  '  the  powers  that  be, ' 
for  he  not  only  got  out  of  the  difficulty,  but  was  pro- 
moted in  the  service.  To  aggravate  the  already  suffi- 
ciently distressing  case,  Campbell  was,  on  application  to 


GLASGOW 

parliament,  granted  indemnity  for  his  loss  of  £6080, 
which  the  city  had  to  pay,  besides  other  expenses 
amounting  to  over  £3000.  The  inhabitants  long  re- 
garded this  Shawfield  affair  with  a  burning  sense  of  in- 
justice suffered  by  them,  and  the  compensation  granted 
was  universally  considered  as  excessive.  "With  his  com- 
pensation money  Mr  Campbell  purchased  the  fine  estate 
and  island  of  Islay,  which  passed  from  the  family  about 
thirty  years  ago. 

The  rankling  recollection  of  the  Shawfield  slaughter 
and  its  heavy  tines  did  not  prevent  the  citizens  of  Glas- 
gow from  coming  forward  with  alacrity  in  defence  of 
the  reigning  family  during  the  rebellion  of  1745.  On 
this  occasion  they  raised  two  battalions  of  600  men  each 
for  the  service  of  the  government.  In  Sept.  1745 
Charles  Edward  ■wrote  to  the  magistrates  demanding 
that  the  sum  of  £15,000  sterling,  all  the  arms  in  the 
city,  and  the  arrears  of  taxes  due  to  the  government 
should  be  forwarded  to  him  for  the  use  of  his  army. 
The  magistrates  did  not  comply  at  the  time,  as  they 
had  hopes  of  relief  from  the  army  of  Sir  John  Cope, 
but  the  demand  of  the  Prince  was  soon  enforced  by 
John  Hay — formerly  a  Writer  to  the  Signet,  and  then 

Suarter-master  in  the  Highland  army — and  the  Clan 
lacGregor  under  Glengyle.  The  magistrates  with  much 
difficulty  induced  Mr  Hay  to  accept  a  composition  of 
£5000  in  money  and  £500  in  goods,  with  which  he 
departed  on  30  Sept.,  after  his  followers  had  been 
quartered  on  the  city  for  four  days.  After  the  unfor- 
tunate march  to  Derby  the  Prince  in  his  retreat 
entered  Glasgow  on  26  Dec. ,  his  advanced  guard  having 
arrived  the  day  before.  The  necessities  of  the  moun- 
taineers were  at  this  time  extreme.  The  great  majority 
of  them  were  bareheaded  and  barefooted  and  their  gar- 
ments in  rags,  and  these  with  their  matted  hair,  long 
beards,  and  keen  and  famished  aspect,  imparted  to 
them  an  appearance  peculiarly  savage  and  ferocious. 
At  this  time  the  volunteers  equipped  at  the  expense  of 
the  city  were  posted  at  Edinburgh  for  the  defence  of 
the  capital.  Alike  to  punish  the  city  for  appearing 
in  arras  against  him  and  to  clothe  his  naked  host,  the 
Chevalier  ordered  the  magistrates  forthwith  to  provide 
6000  short-cloth  coats,  12,000  linen  shirts,  6000  pairs 
of  shoes,  6000  pairs  of  hose,  6000  waistcoats,  and  6000 
blue  bonnets,  the  greater  portion  of  which  articles  were 
by  great  exertions  supplied  in  a  few  days.  He  also 
exacted  large  contributions  in  bestial,  corn,  hay,  and 
straw.  The  Pretender  evacuated  the  city  on  3  Jan. 
1746  after  a  sojourn  of  ten  days,  and  took  with  him 
hostages  for  the  supply  of  the  remaining  portion  of  the 
clothing  still  unfurnished,  and  which  was  afterwards 
duly  forwarded  to  the  rebel  camp  at  Bannockburn. 

While  in  Glasgow  the  Chevalier  lodged  in  the  house 
formerly  belonging  to  Campbell  of  Shawfield,  which, 
notwithstanding  the  treatment  it  had  suffered  during 
the  malt-tax  riots,  was  still  the  most  elegant  in  the 
city,  and  which  now  belonged  to  Mr  Glassford  of 
Dugaldston.  The  Prince  was  conciliatory.  He  sat 
do'wn  to  table  twice  a  day  accompanied  by  some  of  his 
officers  and  a  few  devoted  Jacobite  ladies,  whose  sym- 
pathies he  was  much  more  successful  in  enlisting  than 
those  of  their  male  relatives.  After  his  men  had  been 
got  into  better  condition  by  being  fed  and  clothed, 
Charles  treated  the  inhabitants  to  a  grand  review  on  the 
Green,  but  they  looked  coldly  on,  and  indeed  so  odious 
was  his  cause  that  almost  all  the  principal  inhabitants 
suspended  business  by  closing  their  shops  and  counting- 
houses  during  his  stay.  He  remarked  with  bitterness 
that  nowhere  had  he  made  so  few  friends  as  in  Glasgow, 
for  he  only  procured  sixty  adherents  during  his  sojourn, 
and  these  were  the  very  scum  of  the  place.  Indeed  the 
provost  of  the  time — Cochrane — allows  him  even  less, 
for  he  says  the  Prince's  only  recruit  was  '  ane  drunken 
shoemaker,  who  must  soon  have  fled  his  country  for 
debt,  if  not  for  treason.'  So  keenly  did  Charles  feel  the 
Whiggism  of  the  city  that  it  is  matter  of  tradition  in 
Glasgow  that  but  for  the  manly  and  generous  resistance 
of  Cameron  of  Lochiel  the  place  would  have  been  sacked 
and  burned.     The  Glasgow  volunteers  were  engaged  in 


GLASGOW 

the  Battle  of  Falkirk,  where  they  suffered  severely,  and 
seem  to  have  behaved  with  some  courage,  for  a  contem- 
porary song  says,  that  the  cavalry  ran  away, 

'  But  the  Glasgow  militia  tliey  gave  a  platoon, 
Which  made  the  bold  rebels  come  tumbling;  dowa.' 

Thrown  into  confusion  by  the  precipitate  retreat  of 
Gardiner's  dragoons,  they  were  severely  handled  by  the 
Highlanders,  who  always  regarded  those  who  voluntarily 
took  up  arms  against  them  with  much  stronger  feelings 
of  hostility  than  they  evinced  towards  the  regular  troops 
whose  proper  trade  was  fighting.  Dugald  Graham,  a  ped- 
lar, and  afterwards  bellman  of  Glasgow,  who  accompanied 
the  Pretender's  forces  and  published  a  rhyming  History 
of  the  Eebcllion,  after  narrating  the  defeat  of  Hawley's 
Horse,  proceeds, — ■ 

'  The  south  side  bein;j  fairly  won, 
They  faced  nortli  as  had  been  done, 
AVhere  next  stood  to  bide  the  brusli 
The  Volunteers,  who  zealous 
Kept  firing:  close  till  near  surrounded. 
And  by  the  flying  horse  confounded. 
They  suffered  sair  into  this  place  ; 
No  Highlander  pity"d  their  case  ; 
"  Ye  curs'd  militia,"  they  did  swear, 
**  What  a  devil  did  bring  you  here  ? " ' 

On  receipt  of  the  news  of  the  victory  of  Culloden  there 
were  great  rejoicings  throughout  the  city.  Apart  from 
their  Whiggism,  some  satisfaction  was  no  doubt  felt  by 
the  inhabitants  in  the  ruin  of  a  cause  that  had  cost 
them  over  £14,000,  and  no  doubt  still  more  was  felt 
when  Parliament,  in  1749,  granted  £10,000  to  the  city 
as  part  indemnification  for  the  losses  sustained  from  the 
rebels. 

There  are  some  interesting  accounts  of  Glasgow 
towards  the  middle  of  the  18th  century,  which  we  may 
refer  to  in  passing ;  Defoe's  account  of  it  has  been 
already  mentioned,  and  his  sketches  of  its  commercial 
condition  will  be  further  referred  to  in  the  section  re- 
garding Trade.  In  1736  M'Ure's  History  of  Glasgow  ap- 
peared. In  his  time  the  city  was  IJ  mile  in  length  and 
about  I  mile  in  width.  There  were  20  stone  bridges,  only 
one  of  which,  however,  was  across  the  Clyde,  8  gates,  10 
principal  streets,  and  17  wynds.  There  were  3  parks — 
the  Fir  park  on  the  banks  of  the  Molendinar  Burn  (now 
the  Necropolis),  the  New  Green  (the  present  Green),  and 
the  Old  Green  to  the  W  of  it.  All  three  had  trees, 
the  first  firs,  the  others  elms.  All  around  were  corn- 
fields, gardens,  and  orchards.  There  were  144  shop- 
keepers, 5  sugar-works,  a  rope-work,  3  tanyards,  a 
brewery,  an  iron-work,  a  linen  manufactory,  and  a 
tobacco  spinning  factory.  While  M'Ure  thus  describes 
the  outward  condition  of  the  city,  the  late  Rev.  Dr 
Alexander  Carlyle  of  Inveresk  furnishes  some  interest- 
ing glimpses  of  its  social  condition  in  his  Autoliography 
published  in  1860.  Carlyle  attended  the  University  in 
1743  and  1744.  In  point  of  knowledge,  he  says  Glas- 
gow had  the  advantage  over  Edinburgh,  as  '  learning 
seemed  to  be  an  object  of  more  importance,  and  the  habit 
of  application  much  more  general,' but  he  considered 
Edinburgh  superior  in  '  manner  of  living,  and  in  those 
accomplishments,  and  that  taste  that  belong  to  people 
of  opulence  and  persons  of  education. '  There  were  few 
gentry,  and  the  manner  of  living  was  '  coarse  and  vul- 
gar;' not  half-a-dozen  families  in  town  had  men  ser- 
vants, and  '  some  of  these  were  kept  by  the  professors 
who  had  boarders.  The  principal  merchants  took  an 
early  dinner  with  their  families  at  home,  and  then  re- 
sorted to  the  coffee-house  or  tavern  [which  explains  how 
the  magistrates  came  to  be  in  a  tavern  at  the  time  of 
the  malt-tax  riot]  to  read  the  newspapers  which  they 
generally  did  in  companies  of  four  or  five  in  separate 
rooms,  over  a  bottle  of  claret  or  a  bowl  of  punch.' 
Female  society  he  does  not  seem  to  have  found  very 
enchanting,  for  he  says  that  there  was  no  teacher  of 
French  or  music  in  the  city,  and  that  the  young  ladies 
had  very  ungainly  manners,  and  nothing  to  recommend 
them  but  good  looks  and  fine  clothes.  The  aristocracy 
had  not  yet  come  to  the  conclusion  that  intellectual 
culture  was  only  to  be  had  in  a  more  southern  clime, 

US 


GLASGOW 

for  among  Carlyie's  fellow-students  were  Lord  Blantyre, 
Lord  Cassillis,  and  Andrew  Hamilton,  afterwards  Earl 
of  Selkirk,  of  whom  the  latter  was  so  studious  that 
Carlyle  describes  him  as  more  iit  for  a  professor  than  an 
Earl.  In  the  New  Statistical  Account  Mr  Dugald  Banna- 
tyne  has  furnished  some  further  particulars  of  the  same 
nature,  and  applying  to  the  same  period,  with  one  a 
little  later.  He  says  the  first  main-door  houses  as  apart 
from  flats  were  built  about  1735.  Living  was  cheap — a 
fact  noticed  also  by  Dr  Carlyle,  who  says  it  was  pos- 
sible to  dine  on  roast  beef,  potatoes,  and  small  beer  for 
4d.— and  simple  dinners  TV'ith  two  courses  were  intro- 
duced about  1786.  The  people  were  in  general  religious 
— at  least  in  the  observance  of  Sunday,  on  which  day 
some  '  did  not  sweep  or  dust  the  house,  nor  make  the 
beds,  nor  allow  any  food  to  be  cooked  or  dressed,'  while 
others  '  opened  only  as  much  of  the  shutters  of  their 
windows  as  would  serve  to  enable  the  inmates  to  move 
up  and  down,  or  an  individual  to  sit  at  the  opening  to 
read. '  Smollett,  who  was  born  at  Bonhill  in  Dumbar- 
tonshire in  1721,  and  educated  and  apprenticed  to  a 
surgeon  in  Glasgow,  has  also  left  on  record  his  opinions 
of  the  city  in  the  middle  of  the  18th  century  in 
Roderick  Eandom  (1748),  and  stDl  more  in  Hxmxiiliry 
Clinker  (1771).  In  the  former  it  figures  merely  as  the 
place  of  Roderick's  education  and  apprenticeship,  but 
from  the  descriptions  given  of  it  in  the  chapters  of  the 
books  relating  thereto,  Smollett  seems  to  have  entertained 
a  very  poor  opinion  of  the  social  and  moral  condition  of 
Glasgow,  and  he  is  rather  hard  on  the  town  council,  for 
in  the  last  chapter  he  makes  Roderick  say,  '  We  got 
notice  that  the  magistrates  intended  nest  day  to  com- 
pliment us  with  the  freedom  of  their  town,  upon  which 
my  father,  considering  their  complaisance  in  the  right 
point  of  view,  ordered  the  horses  to  the  coach  early  in 
the  morning.'  In  Humphry  Clinker  the  opinions  are 
much  more  favourable,  and  Bramble  describes  the  city 
as  'one  of  the  prettiest  towns  in  Europe,'  and  'one  of 
the  most  flourishing  in  Great  Britain.  In  short,  it  is 
a  perfect  beehive  in  point  of  industry.  It  stands  partly 
on  a  gentle  declivity,  but  the  greatest  part  of  it  is  in  a 
plain  watered  by  the  river  Clyde.  The  streets  are 
straight,  open,  airy,  and  well  paved,  and  the  houses 
lofty  and  well  built  of  hewn  stone.  At  the  upper  end 
of  the  town  there  is  a  venerable  cathedral  that  may  be 
compared  with  York  Minster  or  Westminster,  and  about 
the  middle  of  the  descent  from  this  to  the  Cross  is  the 
College,  a  respectable  pile  of  building,  with  all  manner 
of  accommodation  for  the  professors  and  students,  in- 
cluding an  elegant  library  and  an  observatory  well  pro- 
vided with  astronomical  instruments.'  The  number  of 
the  inhabitants  is  set  down  as  30,000,  and  notice  is 
taken  of  certain  defects  in  Glasgow  matters.  '  The  water 
of  their  public  pumps  is  generally  hard  and  brackish — 
an  imperfection  the  less  excusable  as  the  river  Clyde 
runs  by  their  doors.  .  .  .  And  there  are  rivulets  and 
springs  above  the  Cathedral  sufiicient  to  fill  a  large 
reservoir  with  excellent  water,  which  might  be  thence 
distributed  to  all  the  different  parts  of  the  city.  It  is 
of  more  consequence  to  consult  the  health  of  the  in- 
habitants in  this  article  than  to  employ  so  much  atten- 
tion in  beautifying  their  town  with  new  streets,  squares, 
and  churches.  Another  defect  not  so  easily  remedied 
is  the  shallowness  of  the  river.  .  .  .  The  people  of 
Glasgow  have  a  noble  spirit  of  enterprise.  ...  I  be- 
came acquainted  with  Mr  Cochran,  who  may  be  styled 
one  of  the  sages  of  this  kingdom.  He  was  first  magis- 
trate at  the  time  of  the  last  rebellion.  I  sat  as  member 
when  he  was  examined  in  the  House  of  Commons,  on 
which  occasion  Mr  P[itt]  observed  he  had  never  heard 
such  a  sensible  evidence  given  at  that  bar.  I  was  also 
introduced  to  Dr  John  Gordon,  .  .  .  who  is  the 
father  of  the  linen  manufacture  in  this  place,  and  was 
the  great  promoter  of  the  city  workhouse,  infirmary, 
and  other  works  of  public  utility.  ...  I  moreover 
conversed  with  Mr  G[lassford],  whom  I  take  to  be  one 
of  the  greatest  merchants  in  Europe.  In  the  last  war 
he  is  said  to  have  had  at  one  time  five-and-twenty 
Bhips  witli  their  cargoes  his  own  property,  and  to  have 
116 


GLASGOW 

traded  for  above  half  a  million  sterling  a  year.  The 
last  war  was  a  fortunate  period  for  the  commerce  of 
Glasgow.  The  merchants,  considering  that  their  ships 
bound  for  America,  launching  out  at  once  into  the 
Atlantic  by  the  north  of  Ireland,  pursued  a  trade  very 
little  frequented  by  privateers,  resolved  to  insure  one 
another,  and  saved  a  very  considerable  sum  by  this 
resolution,  as  few  or  none  of  their  ships  were  taken.' 
He  again  has  a  fling  at  the  council,  for  Melford  says 
that  the  party  was  at  once  '  complimented  with  the 
freedom  of  the  town.'  The  comparative  map  given  in 
Mr  Macgeorge's  Old  Glasgow  shows  that  about  the 
same  time,  in  1773,  the  city  extended  along  both  sides 
of  High  Street  and  Saltmarket,  and  was  closely  buUt 
from  Saltmarket  to  Stockwell  Street,  while  buildings 
extended  westward  along  Argyle  Street  as  far  as  Jamaica 
Street ;  northward  as  far  as  Castle  Street,  about  the  site 
of  the  Royal  Infirmary,  and  along  Drygate,  and  as  far 
as  Ark  Lane  opening  off  Duke  Street ;  eastward  along 
GaUowgate  as  far  as  Barrack  Street,  and  along  New 
Street  and  Kirk  Street ;  and  southward  along  both  sides 
of  Main  Street,  Gorbals,  and  along  a  part  of  Rutherglen 
Loan,  Norfolk  Street,  and  Clyde  Terrace. 

After  the  '45  the  next  important  affair  in  which  we 
find  the  citizens  of  Glasgow  engaged  is  the  cordial  effort 
which  they  made  to  assist  government  at  the  outbreak 
of  the  American  war  of  independence.  Now-a-days, 
however,  these  exertions  are  attributed  not  so  much  to 
patriotism,  as  to  a  feeling  of  self-interest,  for  Glasgow 
had  long  enjoyed  a  lucrative  and  lion's  share  in  the 
tobacco  trade,  the  very  existence  of  which  was  threatened 
by  the  war  that  had  broken  out.  Upon  the  news  of  the 
first  determined  stand  made  by  the  Americans  at  Lex- 
ington and  Bunker's  Hill  in  1775  reaching  Glasgow,  the 
magistrates  convened  a  meeting  of  the  inhabitants,  when 
it  was  resolved  to  give  all  support  to  government  in  its 
ellbrts  to  break  the  spirit  of  the  colonists.  A  body  of 
1000  men  was  accordingly  raised  at  an  expense  of  more 
than  £10,000,  and  placed  at  the  disposal  of  the  Crown. 
The  determination  to  subdue  the  Americans  took  so 
strong  a  hold  on  the  minds  of  the  Glasgow  people,  that 
many  of  the  principal  citizens  formed  themselves  into  a 
recruiting  corps  for  the  purpose  of  completing  the  num- 
bers of  the  Glasgow  regiment.  Mr  James  Finlay,  father 
of  Mr  K.  Finlay,  afterwards  of  Castle-Toward,  played 
the  bagpipes  in  the  recruiting  band ;  Mr  John  Wardrop, 
a  Virginia  merchant,  beat  a  drum  ;  and  other  '  citizens  of 
credit  and  renown '  ofliciated  as  fiiers,  standard  bearers, 
etc. ;  Mr  Spiers  of  Elderslie,  Mr  Cunningham  of  Lain- 
sliaw,  and  other  merchants  hired  their  ships  as  trans- 
ports, but  Mr  Glassford  of  Dugaldston,  who  was  then 
the  most  extensive  foreign  merchant  in  Glasgow,  and 
had  twenty-five  ships  of  his  own,  disapproving  of  the 
coercive  measures  then  in  progress,  laid  up  most  of  his 
vessels  in  the  harbour  of  Port  Glasgow. 

After  being  at  peace  internally  for  a  long  time  there 
was  a  fresh  outburst  of  the  mob  spirit  in  1779.  There 
were  two  '  No-Popery '  riots  in  January  and  February, 
in  the  first  of  which  the  rioters  attacked  the  congrega- 
tion of  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel  in  High  Street  and 
destroyed  the  altar  piece.  On  the  second  occasion 
their  violence  was  directed  against  Robert  Bagnal,  a 
potter,  who  was  a  Roman  Catholic.  His  house  near  the 
GaUowgate  was  set  on  fire  and  burned  down  along  with 
several  adjoining  houses,  and  his  warehouse  in  King 
Street  was  wrecked.  Much  damage  was  done  during 
the  two  days  the  city  was  in  possession  of  the  mob,  and 
the  community  had  afterwards  a  heavy  bill  to  pay  for 
the  havoc  which  these  thoughtless  men  committed.  In 
the  same  year  a  demonstration  of  weavers  against  the 
proposal  to  remit  the  duties  on  French  cambric  was 
peacefully  dispersed,  but  the  same  good  fortune  did 
not  attend  the  magistrates  in  1787,  when  the  weavers, 
after  agitating  in  vain  for  an  increase  of  wages,  tried  to 
gain  their  point  by  force.  After  many  acts  of  violence 
had  been  committed  against  the  persons  and  property 
of  the  men  who  continued  working  at  the  old  rate — 
webs  being  cut,  and  the  contents  of  warehouses  flung 
into  the  street  to  be  burned — and  the  magistrates  them- 


GLASGOW 

selves  stoned,  the  intervention  of  the  military  hecame 
necessary,  and  a  detachment  of  the  39th  regiment  under 
Lieutenant-Colonel  Kellet  was  summoned.  Near  Park- 
house,  in  Duke  Street,  the  soldiers  were  assailed  with 
briclcbats  by  the  mob,  and  the  Riot  Act  having  been 
read  they  fired,  killing  three  persons  and  wounding 
several  others.  The  riotous  spirit  was  fairly  subdued 
by  this  painful  measure,  and  it  is  a  curious  fact  that 
afterwards  many  of  the  weavers  enlisted  into  the  very 
regiment  that  had  inflicted  punishment  on  their  brethren. 

In  the  first  quarter  of  the  present  century,  and  par- 
ticularly during  the  'Radical  Times'  from  1816  to  1820, 
Glasgow  was  from  time  to  time  in  a  somewhat  threaten- 
ing condition,  more  especially  in  1819  and  1820,  when 
the  citizens  were  kept  in  a  state  of  the  most  painful  ex- 
citement and  suspense.  The  working  classes  were  in 
great  distress  and  strongly  imbued  with  a  revolutionary 
spirit,  incited,  it  is  now  well  known,  to  a  great  extent 
by  spies  and  informers,  who  of  course  carried  their  dupes 
to  a  certain  point  and  then  left  them  in  the  lurch. 
Nearly  all  who  were  taken  prisoners  at  Bonnymuir  were 
men  from  Glasgow,  and  two  of  them  were  executed  at 
Stirling  for  high  treason,  while  on  30  Aug.  1820  James 
Wilson,  a  weaver  from  Strathaven,  was  hanged  and  be- 
headed on  Glasgow  Green,  for  his  share  in  some  disturb- 
ances that  took  place  at  the  same  time  in  connection 
witli  the  same  movement. 

From  this  time  till  1848  the  history  of  the  city  is  a 
record  of  progress  and  gradual  growth  in  size  and  trade, 
almost  the  only  exciting  episode  being  the  furore 
attending  the  Disruption  and  the  subsequent  second 
meeting  of  the  Free  Church  General  Assembly  in  Glas- 
gow in  October  1843.  The  year  1848  was,  however, 
marked  by  the  outbreak  of  what  was  probably  the 
most  serious  burst  of  violence  that  ever  occurred  in 
Glasgow,  not  so  much  on  account  of  the  events  which 
actually  took  place  as  from  the  disaster  and  catastrophe 
which  were  threatened  and  prevented,  and  from  the  cir- 
cumstance also  that  they  excited  for  a  day  or  two  a 
feeling  of  the  greatest  insecurity  and  alarm  over  the 
whole  kingdom,  and  were  spoken  of  in  some  of  the  con- 
tinental journals  as  the  commencement  of  a  political 
revolution  in  Great  Britain.  The  public  mind  was  at  this 
time  greatly  excited  over  the  revolutionary  outbreak  in 
France,  and  at  the  same  time  trade  was  dull,  and  vast 
numbers  of  work-people  were  unemployed  and  suffering, 
while  not  a  few  were  discontented  in  a  political  sense. 
In  the  iirst  days  of  the  month  of  March  so  much  dis- 
tress existed  amongst  the  lower  orders  in  Glasgow,  from 
lack  of  emplojnnent,  that  the  authorities  set  many  of  the 
unemployed  to  the  work  of  stone-breaking,  and,  until 
labour  on  a  more  extensive  scale  could  be  provided,  meal 
was  given  by  way  of  immediate  relief  at  the  City  Hall 
to  almost  all  who  chose  to  apply  for  it,  on  the  after- 
noon and  evening  of  Saturday,  4  March.  Meanwhile 
large  meetings  (ostensibly  of  the  unemployed)  were 
daily  held  on  the  Green,  and  on  Sunday,  5  March,  at 
one  of  these  gi'cat  gatherings,  political  harangues  of  a 
very  inflammatory  description  were  delivered  by  design- 
ing demagogues,  who  urged  the  people  to  demand  food 
or  money  as  a  right,  irrespective  of  any  equivalent  for 
them  in  the  shape  of  labour.  On  Monday,  the  6th,  an- 
other great  meeting  was  held  on  the  Green,  swelled  by 
this  time  by  all  the  thieves  and  desperadoes  in  the  city, 
who,  from  their  usual  dens  in  the  wynds,  vennels,  and 
closes,  had  scented  the  mischief  that  was  brewing,  and 
sallied  out  to  originate  or  augment  confusion  and  dis- 
order that  they  might  profit  by  the  consequences. 
After  some  hours  had  been  spent  in  making  and  listen- 
ing to  wild  speeches,  in  which  the  mob  were  counselled 
to  '  do  a  deed  worthy  of  the  name  of  France,'  the  whole 
multitude  moved  off  to  the  City  Hall  to  ascertain  what 
measures  the  magistrates  and  relief  committee  were  tak- 
ing on  behalf  of  the  unemployed.  The  treasurer  of  the 
relief  fund  with  his  assistants  had  been  employed  all 
day  in  distributing  scliedules  and  tickets,  and  in  mak- 
ing arrangements  for  a  general  supply  of  meal  and  soup 
to  the  necessitous  till  work  could  be  provided.  No 
parley  could  be  held  with  such  a  body  of  clamorous 


GLASGOW 

people,  and  it  was  soon  evident  that  it  was  neither  food 
nor  labour  that  was  wanted.  After  they  had  overturned 
some  of  the  Green  Market  stalls,  their  leaders  drew  them 
oft' towards  the  Green,  where,  having  armed  themselves 
with  bars  torn  from  iron  railings  and  with  bludgeons, 
they  about  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  once  more  en- 
tered the  city ;  sacked  the  bakers'  and  provision  shops 
in  London  Street  as  they  passed  along ;  and,  reaching 
Trongate,  attacked  a  gunmaker's  shop  and  took  from 
it  aU  the  guns,  pistols,  and  amunition.  Hardware 
shops  shared  the  same  fate,  and  the  mob,  now  partially 
armed,  dispersed  themselves  in  various  directions,  but 
the  main  body,  rifling  the  shops  as  they  went  along, 
found  their  way  by  various  avenues  into  Ingram  Street, 
and  marched  along  as  if  with  the  intention  of  taking 
possession  of  the  Exchange,  where,  however,  timely 
warning  having  been  given,  the  doors  were  closed.  The 
banl;s  had  also  got  sufficient  notice  to  take  similar  pre- 
cautions. In  Exchange  Square  more  arms  were  got, 
and  firing  now  began  in  the  streets,  the  peaceful  inhabi- 
tants fleeing  in  terror  before  them.  From  this  the  raob 
spread  all  over  the  city,  constantly  receiving  accessions 
to  their  numbers  from  all  the  thieves'  haunts  they 
passed,  and  devoting  their  attentions  to  every  shop 
they  came  to  where  any  plunder  was  likely  to  be  ob- 
tained. It  was  emphatically  a  thieving  raid  on  a  most 
daring  and  majestic  scale,  perpetrated  in  the  light  of 
open  day.  The  more  experienced  thieves  confined  them- 
selves to  gold  watches,  jewellery,  and  other  valuables, 
and  sneaked  off  when  their  pockets  were  full ;  but  the 
scum  of  whatever  neighbourhood  the  rioters  approached 
took  advantage  of  the  general  license,  and  men,  women, 
and  children  were  seen  running  through  the  streets  to 
their  own  houses  with  cheeses,  chests  of  tea,  firkins  of 
butter,  new  boots  and  shoes,  and  in  short  anything 
which  came  most  ready  to  hand.  Had  a  body  of  50  or 
100  policemen  been  led  against  the  mob  at  the  outset, 
the  rioters  would  have  been  scattered,  but  the  whole 
matter  was  so  sudden  that  everybody  was  panic  struck, 
the  police  ofiicials  and  all.  At  lengtli  as  the  afternoon 
wore  on  di-agoons,  brought  from  the  old  cavalry  bar- 
racks in  Eglinton  Street,  Gorbals,  made  their  appear- 
ance on  the  scene  headed  bj'  the  acting  chief  magistrate. 
Bailie  Stewart,  and  Slieriif  Bell,  and  immediately  on 
their  appearance  the  miscreants  who  had  been  engaged 
in  plundering  fled  in  all  directions,  throwing  the  guns 
and  other  articles  they  had  stolen  over  the  bridges,  or 
leaving  them  lying  on  the  streets.  Bailie  Orr  had 
brought  up  the  1st  Royal  Regiment,  and,  although  the 
plundering  was  at  an  end,  the  aspect  of  the  city  was 
extremely  alarming,  for  thousands  of  that  loose  class 
which  every  gi-eat  town  contains  assembled  in  the  Salt- 
market,  High  Street,  Gallowgate,  and  Trongate,  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  Cross,  and  seemed  determined  to 
persist  in  their  career  of  disorder  and  mischief.  The 
Riot  Act  was  read,  and  the  cavalry  cleared  the  street  by 
making  repeated  charges,  in  the  course  of  which  they 
destroyed  three  barricades  (formed  by  overturned  carts) 
in  King  Street,  Gallowgate,  and  High  Street,  these 
being  the  first  erections  of  the  kind  which  had  been  seen 
in  Glasgow.  The  citizens  hurried  in  hundreds  to  the 
Exchange,  where  they  were  sworn  in  as  special  con- 
stables, after  which  they  patrolled  the  streets  in  strong 
parties,  dispersing  the  rioters  in  all  directions.  The 
mob  had  broken  all  the  lamps  in  that  quarter  of  the 
city,  and  it  was  in  total  darkness,  but  the  vigilance  of  the 
patrols  prevented  any  further  gathering,  and  by-and-by 
the  infantry  were  withdrawn  from  the  streets,  bivou- 
acked during  the  night  in  the  Royal  Exchange  and  the 
Tontine  Reading  Room,  and  were  reinforced  before  morn- 
ing by  two  companies  of  the  71st  Regiment  sent  from 
Edinburgh  by  special  train.  Next  morning  great  hordes 
of  ragamuffins  made  their  appearance,  desiring  nothing 
better  than  that  the  game  should  be  played  over  again, 
and  having  their  numbers  swelled  by  thoughtless  lads 
and  many  of  that  silly  class  who  always  join  in  a 
crowd  to  see  what  is  going  on.  The  military  were  dis- 
tributed throughout  the  city,  and  strong  bodies  of 
special  constables  patrolled  the  streets,  but  about  mid- 
117 


GLASGOW 

day  word  was  brought  that,  notwithstanding  these  pre- 
parations, the  mob  liad  resolved  to  stop  the  public  mills 
and  dismantle  the  gas-works  with  the  intention  of 
utterly  destroying  the  industrial  and  social  order  of  the 
city.  A  small  body  of  veterans,  aided  by  some  special 
constables  and  some  police  officers,  attacked  a  party  of 
the  mob  who  were  assailing  the  silk  mill  of  Messrs 
Campbell  in  John  Street,  but  were  unable  to  cope  with 
the  force  against  them.  In  their  retreat  along  John 
Street  they  were  so  pressed  that  they  at  last  fired, 
killing  one  man  and  wounding  several  others,  of  whom 
five  subsequently  died ;  and  this  volley,  though  fired 
somewhat  iUegaUy,  without  the  presence  or  order  of  a 
magistrate,  ended  the  disturbances.  An  exaggerated 
and  mistaken  account  of  the  matter  transmitted  to  Lon- 
don gave  the  rising  a  political  and  revolutionary  com- 
plexion, which  affected  the  public  funds,  created  for  a 
moment  a  panic  over  the  whole  kingdom,  and  gave  rise 
toattemptsat  similardisturbancesin  London,  Edinburgh, 
Manchester,  and  elsewhere.  The  value  of  property  de- 
stroyed and  carried  away  and  the  expenses  connected  with 
the  riots  amounted  to  £7111,  9s.  5d.,  which  was  raised  by 
assessment  on  the  inhabitants.  Besides  those  sentenced 
for  minor  ofi'euces  in  connection  with  the  riots  thirty- 
five  were  convicted  at  the  spring  circuit,  and  received 
sentences  varying  from  eighteen  years'  transportation  to 
one  year's  imprisonment. 

In  1857  Glasgow  was  overwhelmed  with  a  serious 
commercial  disaster,  by  the  failure  of  the  Great  Western 
Bank,  brought  about  by  a  commercial  panic  in  America. 
It  suspended  payment  on  9  Nov.,  and  such  was  the 
anxiety  and  the  disturbed  condition  of  things,  that 
the  magistrates  sent  to  Edinburgh  for  additional  troops 
which,  however,  were  not  required.  The  call  per  share 
was  £125,  and  this,  small  as  it  is  compared  with  more 
famous  calls  of  recent  years,  was  yet  sufficiently  heavy 
to  ruin  most  of  the  shareholders. 

In  1875,  at  the  O'Connell  celebration  on  5  Aug., 
serious  riots  occurred  in  Partiek,  a  procession  having 
been  attacked  while  passing  through  some  of  the  streets. 
The  burgh  was  in  a  disturbed  state  for  two  days,  during 
which  it  was  found  necessary  to  read  the  Riot  Act. 
Though  in  the  suppression  of  the  disturbance  there  were 
no  lives  lost  many  persons  were  severely  injured.  In 
1S76  the  British  Association  met  at  Glasgow  under  the 
presidency  of  Dr  Thomas  Andrews  of  Belfast,  the  meet- 
ing being  a  very  successful  one.  In  1878  the  greatest  of 
Glasgow's  modern  misfortunes  befel  in  the  failure  of  the 
City  of  Glasgow  Bank.  The  city  seems  always  to  have 
been  stimulated  to  fresh  exertions  by  any  great  misfor- 
tune, for  in  the  section  on  Trade  we  shall  see  that  as  one 
industry  declined  and  ruin  impended  another  always 
arose  to  fill  its  place.  Here  there  has  been  no  exception 
to  the  rule,  for,  notwithstanding  the  unprecedented 
magnitude  and  serious  consequences  of  the  disaster,  now 
only  four  years  after  the  occurrence  the  evil  results 
have,  so  far  as  the  prosperity  of  the  city  is  concerned, 
been  almost  entirely  eiTaced.  The  ruined  and  desolated 
homes  can  never  be  repaired.  The  bank  was  established 
in  1839,  and  was — with  the  exception  of  a  few  days  in 
1857,  at  the  time  of  the  panic  caused  by  the  failure  of 
the  Western  Bank — up  almost  till  the  very  day  of  its 
failure  considered  to  be  sound  and  successful  Even  in 
the  month  of  June  the  report  issued  to  the  shareholders 
showed  a  reserve  fund  of  £450,000  and  a  balance  of 
£13,222  to  be  carried  forward  after  paying  a  dividend  of 
12  per  cent.  ;  and,  therefore,  the  announcement  in  the 
morning  newspapers  of  2  Oct  that  the  directors  had  de- 
cided to  close  their  doors  fell  on  the  community  with  the 
suddenness  of  a  thunderclap.  It  had,  at  the  time,  133 
branches  throughout  the  country,  and  was,  as  the  Bank 
of  Mona,  in  possession  of  the  whole  business  in  the  Isle 
of  Man.  The  stoppage  of  the  bank  was  followed  by 
heavy  failures.  Smith,  Fleming,  &  Co.,  of  London, 
suspended  payment  with  liabilities  of  £1,931,178  and 
assets  of  only  £285,382,  £1,752,178  being  due  to 
the  City  of  Glasgow  Bank.  Potter,  Wilson,  &  Co., 
Glasgow;  Heugh,  Balfour  &  Co.,  Manchester;  and  T.  D. 
Finlay  &  Co.  also  suspended  payment,  with  duluaeucles 
118 


GLASGOW 

amounting  to  nearly  another  million,  most  of  which 
was  also  due  to  the  bank  ;  while,  shortly  after,  the  firms 
of  James  Morton  &  Co. ,  Glasgow  and  London ;  Matthew, 
Buchanan,  &  Co. ,  Glasgow  ;  and  Matthew  &  Thielman 
suspended  with  total  liabilities  mostly  also  to  the  bank  of 
over  £5,000,000.  An  investigation  of  the  affairs  showed 
that  thebalance-sheets  had  been  fraudulent,  asthey  should 
have  shown,  instead  of  a  profit,  a  loss  of  over  £6,000, 000 ; 
the  reserve  gold  was  less  than  the  proper  amount  by 
over  £200, 000  ;  the  credits  were  stated  at  £1,126,764  less 
than  was  actually  the  case,  and  the  good  securities  held 
against  advances  were  less  by  £926,764  than  had  been 
represented.  An  investigation  of  affairs  brought  out 
the  fact  that  the  bad  debts  which  would  have  to  be 
paid  up  by  calls  on  the  shareholders  amounted  to 
£7,345,359,  and  the  first  call  by  the  liquidators  of  £500 
per  £100  of  stock  ruined  most  of  the  shareholders,  who 
were  in  a  great  part  widows,  orphans,  country  clergy- 
men, or  persons  of  small  means  ;  and  subsequent  calls, 
bringing  the  whole  amount  to  £2750  per  £100  of  stock, 
left  but  few  solvent  contributories.  The  directors  and 
manager  were  tried  at  the  High  Court  of  Justiciary  in 
Edinburgh  on  20  Jan.  1879  and  the  eleven  following 
days  on  a  charge  of  fabricating  false  balance-sheets,  and 
having  been  found  guilty  were  sentenced  to  various 
periods  of  imprisonment,  and  the  liquidation  of  the 
bank  is  now  almost  at  an  end,  an  Assets  Company  hav- 
ing been  formed  by  the  still  solvent  shareholders,  for 
the  purpose  of  purchasing  the  remaining  assets  of  the 
bank  for  a  sum  which  will  cover  all  outstanding 
liabilities,  the  assets  being  more  valuable  if  realised 
slowly.  A  fund  of  about  £400,000  was  raised  through- 
out the  country  for  the  relief  of  ruined  shareholders, 
and  its  distribution  brought  some  comfort  in  many 
cases,  but  even  this  magnificent  sum  cannot  repair  the 
misery  caused  by  the  reckless  financing  operations  in 
which  the  bank  engaged. 

Such  a  disaster  in  a  commercial  city  like  Glasgow 
caused  for  some  time  great  distress  among  the  working 
classes,  and  charitable  funds  to  the  amount  of  over 
£27,000  were  expended  in  their  relief.  The  suffering 
has  now  passed  away,  and — if  we  may  take  the  building 
trade  as  a  guide,  and  it  is  a  pretty  safe  one — even  the 
commercial  depression  has  passed  its  worst. 

The  following  table  shows  the  details  of  work 
sanctioned  by  the  Dean  of  Guild  Court  for  the  last  two 
years  1880-81  and  1881-82  compared  with  1875-76  when 
prosperity  and  the  building  mania  was  at  it  height. 
From  1876  there  was  a  steady  decrease  in  the  number 
of  buildings  and  the  value  of  the  work  sanctioned.  The 
comparison  extends  to  Sept.  1882  : — 


Number  of 

Total 

Percentage 

Year. 

Dwelling-Houses 

Value  of  Work 

of  Unoccupied 

Authorised. 

Authorised. 

Houses. 

1S75-76 

6741 

£2,125,249 

3 

1876-77 

— 

. — 

4-9 

1877-78 

— 

— 

1-6 

1878-79 

— 

— 

7-9 

1879-80 

— 

^ 

10-2 

lSSO-81 

418 

307,640 

11-22 

1881-82 

612 

378,690 

9-86 

Besides  the  dwelling-houses  sanctioned  in  1881-82  there 
were  warehouses,  stores,  and  workshops  authorised,  of 
the  gross  value  of  £154,755,  and  alterations  and  addi- 
tions of  the  value  of  £71,670,  and  halls  of  the  value  of 
£10,065,  and  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  has  been  added 
to  the  length  of  streets.  Church  building  kept  pace 
with  the  building  mania,  for  in  1876  and  1877  sanction 
was  given  to  21  churches  worth  £101,500,  which  is 
almost  exactly  the  same  as  the  number  sanctioned  from 
1877  to  1882.  This  year  (1882.)  i  new  churches  have 
been  sanctioned  worth  £11,700. 

Glasgow  seems  once  more  to  have  started  on  its  on- 
ward career.     Long  may  it  flourish. 

Commerce. — According  to  M'Ure  the  first  'promoter 
and  propagator'  of  trade  in  Glasgow  was  William  Elphin- 
stone,  a  cadet  of  the  noble  family  of  Elphinstone,  who 


GLASGOW 

settled  in  the  city  in  the  reign  of  King  James  I.  of 
Scotland  about  1420,  and  became  a  merchant.  He  is 
mentioned  as  a  curer  of  salmon  and  herrings  for  the 
French  market,  for  which  brandy  and  salt  were  brought 
back  in  return,  and  fish-curing  remained  an  important 
branch  of  trade  so  late  as  the  middle  of  the  18th  cen- 
tury, when  Defoo  tells  us  that  they  cured  herrings  so 
well,  that  a  Glasgow  herring  was  esteemed  as  good  as  a 
Dutch  one.  The  name  of  Fuller's  Gate,  applied  at  an 
early  period  to  the  Saltmarket,  seems  also  to  imply  that 
there  was  some  manufacture  of  cloth  ;  and  a  small  trade 
in  dyeing  is  indicated  by  an  early  prohibition  of  any 
but  a  burgess  from  dyeing  cloth.  The  person  mentioned 
as  the  second  '  promoter '  of  trade  is  Archibald  Lyon, 
son  of  Lord  Glamis,  who,  coming  to  Glasgow  with 
Archibald  Dunbar,  '  undertook  great  adventures  and 
voyages  in  trading  to  Poland,  France,  and  Holland.' 
At  this  time,  however,  the  foreign  trade  must  have 
been  of  an  extremely  limited  character  ;  but  from  the 
occasional  mention  in  the  council  records  of  merchants 
proceeding  to  the  English  markets  and  bringing  home 
'merchand  waires,'  it  is  evident  that  in  the  early  part 
of  the  17th  century  the  inhabitants  conducted  a  fair 
amount  of  inland  traffic.  In  1597  the  shipping  of 
Glasgow  seems  to  have  been  6  ships,  the  largest  of  92 
tons,  and  the  smallest  of  38  tons,  the  total  tonnage  being 
296.  In  1650  Franck  says  that  the  commercial  trans- 
actions of  the  Glasgow  merchants  were  extensive.  He 
mentions  particularly  the  free  trade  with  France,  and 
adds  that  '  the  staple  of  the  country  consists  of  linens, 
friezes,  furs,  tartans,  pelts,  hides,  tallow,  skins,  and 
various  other  small  manufactures  and  commodities.' 
Commissioner  Thomas  Tucker,  in  reporting  to  Cromwell 
in  1656  '  on  the  settlement  of  the  Revenues  of  Excise 
and  Customs  in  Scotland,'  says,  that  Glasgow  was  a 
considerable  burgh  both  for  structure  and  trade.  With 
the  exception  of  the  students  of  the  college  all  the  in- 
habitants were  'traders  and  dealers — some  for  Ireland 
with  small  smiddy  coals  in  open  boats  from  four  to  ten 
tons,  from  whence  they  bring  hoops,  rungs,  barrel 
staves,  meal,  oats,  and  butter ;  some  for  France  with 
pladding,  coals,  and  herring,  of  which  there  is  a  great 
fishing  yearly  in  the  western  sea,  for  which  they  return 
salt,  pepper,  rosin,  and  prunes ;  some  to  Norway  for 
timber ;  and  every  one,  with  theyr  neighbours  the  High- 
landers, who  come  hither  from  the  Isles  and  Western 
parts  in  summer  .  .  .  into  the  Clwyde  with  pladd- 
ing, dry  hides,  goate,  kid,  and  deere  skins  which  they 
sell,  and  purchase  with  theyr  price  such  commodityes 
and  provisions  as  they  stand  in  neede  of  from  time  to 
time.  There  have  been  likeivise  some  who  have  ven- 
tured as  far  as  the  Barbadoes,  but  the  losse  which  they 
sustained  by  being  obliged  to  come  home  late  in  the 
year  has  made  them  discontinue  going  thither  any 
more. '  The  mercantile  genius  of  the  people  is  strong, 
if  they  were  not  checked  and  kept  under  by  the  shallow- 
ness of  their  river,  every  day  more  and  more  diminishing 
and  filling  up,  '  soe  that  noe  vessel  of  any  burden  can 
come  up  nearer  than  within  14  miles,  where  they  must 
unlade  and  send  up  theyr  timber  and  Norway  trade  in 
rafts  or  floats,  and  all  other  commodities  by  three  or 
foure  tons  of  goods  at  a  time  in  small  cobbles  or  boats 
of  three,  four,  or  five,  and  none  above  six  tonnes  a  boat. 
There  is  in  this  place  a  collector,  a  cheque,  and  four 
wayters.  There  are  twelve  vessels  belonging  to  the 
merchants  of  the  port,  viz.  :  three  of  150  tons  each,  one 
of  140,  two  of  100,  one  of  50,  three  of  30,  one  of  15,  and 
one  of  12,  none  of  which  come  up  to  the  town — total, 
957  tons,'  so  that  in  little  more  than  half  a  century  the 
shipping  had  increased  more  than  three  times.  In  1665, 
during  the  war  with  the  Dutch,  the  George  of  Glasgow 
sailed  under  letters  of  marque,  and,  though  of  little  more 
than  60  tons,  was  dignified  by  the  name  of  a  'friggate.' 
She  carried  60  men,  and  was  provided  with  5  pieces  of 
ordnance,  32  muskets,  12  half  pikes,  18  pole  axes,  30 
swords,  3  barrels  of  powder,  and  provisions  for  six 
months.  There  seem  to  have  been  also  other  privateers 
belonging  to  the  city,  for  in  the  Loiidon  Gazette  of 
Nov.  8j  1666,  it  is  noticed  that  a  'privateer  of  Glasgow, 


GLASGOW 

one  Chambers,  has  lately  brought  in  a  Dutch  caper  of  8 
guns,  with  a  prize  ship  laden  with  salt.'  In  1674  a 
company  for  carrying  on  the  whale  fishery  and  soap- 
making  was  formed  in  Glasgow.  The  company  em- 
ployed five  ships,  and  had  extensive  premises  at  Greenock 
for  boiling  blubber  and  curing  fish,  known  by  the  name 
of  the  Royal  Close.  An  advertisement  from  the  com- 
pany appeared  in  the  Glasgow  Courant  on  11  Nov. 
1715,  being  the  first  advertisement  in  the  first  news- 
paper published  in  the  W  of  Scotland,  intimating  that 
'  any  one  who  wants  good  black  or  speckled  soap  may  be 
served  by  Robert  Luke,  Manager  of  the  Soaperie  at 
Glasgow,  at  reasonable  rates.'  The  soaperie  then  stood 
at  the  head  of  Candleriggs.  In  relating  the  progress  of 
trade  in  Glasgow  subsequent  to  1668,  M'Ure  instances 
the  case  of  Walter  Gibson,  who,  in  one  year,  packed  and 
cured  300  lasts  of  herrings  at  £6  sterling  per  last  of  12 
barrels,  and  having  freighted  a  Dutch  ship,  called  the 
St  Agatha,  of  450  tons,  he  despatched  ship  and  cargo 
to  St  Martin's  in  France,  where  he  got  for  each  barrel 
of  herring  a  barrel  of  brandy  and  a  crown,  and  the  ship 
at  her  return  was  loa'ded  with  salt  and  brandy.  The 
produce  came  to  a  very  large  sum,  with  which  he 
bought  this  vessel  and  other  two  large  ships  and  traded 
to  France,  Spain,  Norway,  Sweden,  and  Virginia.  This 
enterprising  merchant  was  the  first  who  brought  iron  to 
Glasgow,  the  shopkeepers  having  previously  been  sup- 
plied from  the  ports  on  the  E  coast. 

After  the  Restoration  Scotland  was  treated  by  the 
English  Parliament  as  an  alien  country,  and  the  English 
ports  were  practically  closed  against  Scotch  traders,  and 
it  was  the  Union  to  which  it  had  offered  such  violent 
opposition  that  first  brought  a  fresh  great  stimulus  to  the 
commerce  of  Glasgow.  In  1692  there  were  fifteen  ships 
belonging  to  Glasgow,  the  burden  varying  from  30  to 
160  tons,  and  the  total  tonnage  being  1182,  or  an  increase 
in  40  years  of  about  one-fourth.  'The  Union,  however, 
opened  up  the  trade  with  the  colonies,  and  soon  there- 
after we  find  the  Glasgow  merchants  sending  out  their 
'  adventures '  to  Virginia  and  Maryland,  and  bringing 
back  tobacco  leaf  in  return.  They  did  not  at  this  time 
possess  any  suitable  ships  of  their  own,  and  were  accord- 
ingly obliged  to  charter  them,  which  they  did  prin- 
cipally from  the  port  of  Whitehaven.  In  these  early 
enterprises  a  supercargo,  sent  out  with  each  vessel, 
disposed  of  the  goods  and  purchased  the  tobacco,  all 
the  transactions  being  for  ready  money.  This  mode  of 
managing  business  prospered,  and  the  Glasgow  mer- 
chants, instead  of  hiring  from  their  neighbours,  began 
to  buUd  ships  of  their  own,  and  in  1718  the  first  vessel 
that  belonged  to  Glasgow  owners  crossed  the  Atlantic. 
She  was  built  at  Greenock,  and  registered  only  60  tons. 
From  the  economy  of  this  ready-money  system,  and 
probably  also  from  the  merchants  being  contented  with 
moderate  profits,  the  Glasgow  tobacco-houses  ere  long 
not  only  secured  the  lion's  share  of  the  foreign  export 
trade,  but  even  undersold  the  English  merchants  in 
their  own  home  markets,  and  this  led  to  a  combination 
against  them  by  the  dealers  of  London,  Liverpool, 
Bristol,  and  Whitehaven,  and  a  complaint  to  the 
Government  that  the  Glasgow  traders  conducted  their 
business  upon,  and  reaped  their  advantages  from,  a 
system  of  fraud  on  the  public  revenue.  A  searching 
investigation,  held  in  1721,  resulted  in  the  Lords  of  the 
Treasury  finding  '  that  the  complaints  of  the  merchants 
of  London,  Bristol,  Liverpool,  Whitehaven,  etc.,  are 
groundless,  and  proceed  from  a  spirit  of  envy,  and  not 
from  a  regard  to  the  interests  of  trade  or  of  the  King's 
revenue.'  The  English  merchants  not  satisfied  with 
this  finding  and  rebuke,  made  in  the  following  year 
formal  complaint  to  Parliament,  and  the  commissioners 
who  were  sent  down  to  the  Clyde  imposed  so  many 
vexatious  restrictions  on  the  trade  that  it  languished 
and  struggled  for  its  very  life.  Expensive  and  harass- 
ing lawsuits  followed,  and  it  was  not  till  1735  that  the 
Glasgow  traders  were  able  fairly  to  beat  off  the  annoy- 
ance of  the  English  ports.  Defoe,  in  his  tour  through 
Scotland  in  1723,  says  that  there  twenty  or  thirty  ships 
came  every  year  from  the  plantations  with  tobacco  and 

119 


GLASGOW 

sugar,  and  later,  in  the  edition  of  1727,  he  says,  'they 
now  send  near  fifty  sail  of  ships  every  j'ear  to  Virginia, 
New  England,  and  other  English  colonies  in  America  ; ' 
and  he  points  out  the  great  advantage  Glasgow  had 
over  London,  by  the  ships  not  having  to  go  down  the 
Channel,  so  that  they  were  often  '  at  the  Capes  of  Vir- 
ginia before  the  London  ships  got  clear  of  the  Channel,' 
and  thus  saved  a  month  or  six  weeks  on  the  whole 
voyage. 

From  the  time  of  the  final  victory  of  the  Glasgow 
houses  over  their  English  rivals,  the  trade  was  conducted 
on  more  liberal  principles,  partners  or  resident  agents 
being  established  throughout  the  tobacco-producing 
colonies  ;  the  trade  increased  prodigiously,  and  princely 
fortunes  were  realised.  Soon  after  this  time  the  number 
of  ships,  brigantines,  and  sloops  belonging  to  Glasgow 
amounted  to  sixty-seven ;  and  besides  an  important 
coasting  trade,  voyages  were  made  to  Virginia,  Jamaica, 
Antigua,  St  Kitts,  Barbadoes,  Gibraltar,  Holland, 
Stockholm,  and  Ireland.  The  halcyon  era  of  the  to- 
bacco trade  is  reckoned  from  1740  tUl  the  declaration  of 
American  Independence,  and  during  this  period  by  far 
the  greater  portion  of  the  whole  disposable  capital  of  the 
city  was  embarked  in  it.  In  1771,  of  the  90,000  hogs- 
heads of  tobacco  imported  into  Great  Britain,  over 
49,000  came  to  Glasgow  alone,  while  about  the  same 
time  the  shipping  belonging  to  Glasgow  and  the  Clyde 
was  about  60,000  tons.  This  seems  to  have  been  the 
culminating  year  of  the  tobacco  trade,  for  in  1774  the 
number  of  hogsheads  imported  was  40,543,  and  in  the 
following  year  the  outbreak  of  the  American  War  ruined 
the  trade  and  most  of  those  engaged  in  it.  The  import- 
ance of  this  traffic  explains  the  alacrity  and  seeming 
patriotism  displayed  in  raising  troops  to  assist  the 
government  in  their  efTorts  to  suppress  the  rising. 

Although  the  ruin  of  the  great  tobacco  trade  had  thus 
come,  the  Glasgow  merchants,  so  far  from  sitting  down 
and  weeping,  immediately  proceeded  with  characteristic 
energy  to  seek  fresh  fields  for  their  enterprise  and 
capital,  and  the  West  India  trade,  which  had  for  some 
time  back  been  engaging  their  attention,  was  extended 
and  developed  so  greatly  that  it  soon  took  the  place  of 
the  lost  tobacco  trade,  and  the  West  India  magnates 
took  the  place  of  the  fallen  tobacco  lords.  The  applica- 
tion of  steam  to  navigation,  which  was  by-and-by  to 
work  such  wonders  for  the  Clyde,  took  place  at  Glasgow 
about  1801,  when  Symington  constructed  for  Lord  Dun- 
das  a  steamboat  called  the  Charlotte  Dundas,  which 
plied  for  a  short  time  on  the  Forth  and  Clyde  Canal, 
but  was  stopped,  as  the  directors  were  afraid  the  banks 
might  be  damaged.  In  1811  Henry  Bell,  a  milhvright, 
a  native  of  Torphichen,  made  a  still  further  advance  in 
a  boat  40  feet  long  and  12  feet  of  beam,  called  the 
Comet,  which  was  built  from  designs  by  himself,  with 
an  engine  made  by  John  Robertson  of  Glasgow,  and  a 
boiler  by  David  Napier.  It  plied  between  Glasgow, 
Greenock,  and  Helensburgh,  and  was  the  pioneer  of  the 
busy  fleet  that  now  throng  the  waters  of  the  river. 
Within  the  next  two  years  other  three  steamers,  with 
much  more  powerful  engines,  also  began  to  ply.  The 
number  of  vessels  owned  in  Glasgow  at  this  time  was 
thirty-five,  with  a  tonnage  of  2620. 

In  1816  still  another  ti'ade  was  opened  up,  when 
James  Findlay  &  Co.  despatched  a  ship  of  600  tons — 
t\)&  Earl  of  Buckingliam — to  Calcutta — the  first  vessel 
that  cleared  direct  from  a  Scottish  port  to  the  East 
Indies.  Other  merchants  followed  the  example  of  this 
enterprising  firm,  of  which  the  well-known  and  able 
Kirkman  Findlay  was  then  the  head,  and  the  trade  soon 
became  a  valuable  and  extensive  one,  and  now  employs 
some  of  the  largest  and  finest  of  both  the  sailing  vessels 
and  sea-going  steamers  of  the  Clyde,  from  Glasgow, 
Greenock,  and  Port  Glasgow.  Of  late  years  it  has  in- 
creased very  rapidly.  The  trade  to  China  and  a  new 
trade  to  France  have  since  been  added,  and  the  inter- 
course with  Canada,  South  America,  Australia,  New 
Zealand,  and  other  parts  has  become  vastly  extended. 
The  trade  with  the  United  States  has  latterly  grown  to 
such  magnitude  as  to  be  exceeded  only  by  that  of  Lon- 
120 


GLASGOW 

I  don  and  Liverpool.  In  1840  Messrs  Burns  founded  the 
great  Cnnard  Line  of  steamers,  \AW\  the  Sirius,  a  fine 
vessel  of  2000  tons,  and  the  first  steamer  that  crossed 
the  Atlantic.  So  well  did  they  succeed  that  by-and-by 
another  was  built  for  the  same  trade,  and  in  1856 
Messrs  Handyside  &  Henderson  founded  the  Anchor 
Line,  also  plying  to  New  York,  while  the  Allan  Line 
had  been  founded  to  carry  on  trade  by  steam  with 
Canada.  Since  then  other  lines  have  been  formed,  and 
now  there  is  regular  steam  communication  with  almost 
every  part  of  the  world  at  frequent  intervals — with  Aber- 
deen, Belfast,  Girvan,  the  West  Highlands,  Liverpool, 
Londonderry,  Portugal,  Spain,  all  the  Mediterranean 
ports,  the  Black  Sea,  New  York,  Boston,  Philadelphia, 
Halifax,  St  John,  New  Brunswick,  and  various  ports  in 
South  America,  the  West  and  East  Indies,  China,  and 
Japan.  Glasgow  has  likewise  been,  since  1842,  very  pro- 
minent as  an  emigi-ation  port  for  British  North  America, 
the  United  States,  and  Australia.  The  number  of 
emigrants  in  different  vears  is  : — 1868,  12,447  ;  1870, 
23,774  ;  1872,  23,193  ;'  1874,  19,766  ;  1876,  12,767  ; 
1878, 13,976  ;  1880,  29,109.  Of  those  who  left  in  1880, 
16,961  were  Scotch,  148  English,  258  Irish,  and  11,742 
foreigners.  Taking  that  year  as  an  average  the  places 
selected  were: — United  States,  23,988;  Canada,  3658; 
Australia,  397  ;  New  Zealand,  805  ;  elsewhere,  261.  This 
shows  a  marked  increase  in  the  number  of  foreigners, 
the  average  for  the  preceding  five  years  being  3952 ; 
while  the  Irish  have  fallen  off  sadly,  the  average  for 
the  preceding  five  years  being  1079.  With  regard  to 
the  destination,  there  is  a  marked  increase  in  the  United 
States,  the  average  for  the  preceding  five  years  being 
8216 ;  and  a  marked  decrease  in  the  number  for  New 
Zealand,  the  average  for  which  was  formerly  2870. 
New  Brunswick  and  Victoria,  once  favourite  places, 
have  disappeared  from  the  list  altogether. 

The  commerce  of  Glasgow  with  other  countries  and 
with  the  British  Colonies  is  indeed  about  as  compre- 
hensive and  widespread  as  any  profitable  commerce  with 
them  can  well  be  made,  while  the  coasting  trade,  both 
by  steamers  and  by  sailing  vessels,  is  at  once  minute  and 
enormous.  As  an  illustration  of  how  some  branches 
increase,  we  may  mention  that  an  export  trade  to 
France,  which  hardly  existed  before  1860,  rose  in  one 
year  to  the  large  value  of  £367,000  ;  and  while  in  1877 
only  fourteen  ships  with  7197  tons  of  grain  arrived  in 
the  harbour,  in  1881  the  quantity  imported  was  448,060 
tons. 

The  following  table  shows  the  vessels  registered  as 
belonging  to  Glasgow,  at  intervals  from  the  16th  cen- 
tury onwards : — 


Tear. 

Sailing 
Vessels. 

Tonnage. 

Steam 
Vessels. 

Tonnage. 

Total 

Vessels. 

Total 
Tonnage. 

1597 

6 

296 

6 

296 

1656 

12 

857 

12 

957 

1692 

15 

1,182 

15 

1,182 

ISIO 

24 

1,956 

24 

1,956 

1820 

.. 

77 

6,131 

1830 

217 

39,432 

1841 

431 

95,062 

1861 

508 

145,684 

1861 

608 

173,146 

171 

45 

658 

679 

218,804 

1871 

557 

280,844 

338 

162 

172 

895 

433,016 

1882 

675 

373,767 

6S3 

463,668 

1,258 

527,435 

The  following  table  shows  the  arrivals  in  the  harbour, 
at  intervals  of  ten  years,  for  the  last  forty  years  : — 


Year. 

1 
Arrivals.                                     j 

Sailing 
Vessels. 

Tonnage. 

Steam 
Vessels. 

Tonnage. 

Total 
Vessels. 

Total 
Tonnage. 

1841 
1851 
1861 
1871 
1831 

6,785 
6,212 
4,804 
2  420 
1,635 

314,262 
424,785 
474,740 
361,009 
305,003 

9,421 
11,062 
11,281 
12,713 

6,990 

828,111 
1,021,821 
1,029,480 
1,588,699 
2,007,138 

15,206 
17,274 
16,058 
16,133 
7,626 

1,142,373 
1,446,606 
1,504,220 
1,949,708 
2,312,201 

GLASGOW 

The  rapid  rise  sinco  about  1820  and  present  condition 
of  the  whole  foreign  coramcrco  of  the  port,  will  bo  best 
seen  from  these  and  the  other  tables,  especially  in  that 
giving  the  customs'  revenue.  Some  of  the  results  are 
very  striking,  especially  when  it  is  kept  in  mind  that 
about  1861  a  large  department  of  the  commerce  sustained 
a  severe  shock  from  the  effects  of  the  American  war.  It 
is  also  worthy  of  notice,  and  in  contrast  to  the  experience 
of  most  of  the  other  parts  of  the  United  Kingdom,  that 
Glasgow  commerce  possesses  an  elasticity  which  has  al- 
most always  exhibited  a  progressive  increase  of  customs' 
revenue,  and  seldom,  leaving  the  abnormally  high  years 
of  1S66  and  1867  out  of  account,  a  large  falling  off  in 
spite  of  the  frequent  remissions  of  heavy  duties  which 
have  taken  place  since  the  inauguration  of  the  free  trade 
era  of  1844. 

The  value  of  British  and  foreign  produce  and  manu- 
facture exported  from  Glasgow,  and  the  customs'  revenue, 
are  also  given  at  intervals  for  the  last  forty  years,  and 
for  1861,  1871,  and  1881— 


Year. 

and  Manufacture.                ^^  '''"Sgow. 

1S41,  .    . 
1851,  .    . 
1861,  .    . 
1871,  -    . 
18S1,  .    . 

£2,007,192 

6,259,387 
9,853,057 
12,148,500 

£526,100 
675,044 
924,445 
999,572 

1,036,611 

The  revenue  in  1812  was  only  £3124 ;  in  1820,  £11,000 ; 
in  1830,  £59,014.  The  highest  customs'  revenue  ob- 
tained at  Glasgow  was  in  1868,  when  it  reached  the  sum 
of  £1,-352,246,  12s.  od.  ;  and  in  1867,  1869,  1872,  1873, 
1876,  and  1877  it  exceeded  one  million  of  pounds  ster- 
ling. Since  then  it  has  been— (1878)  £945,860,  (1879) 
£954,621,  (1880)  £969,339,  (1881)  £1,036,616.  The 
revenue  for  the  first  six  months  of  the  present  year 
(1882)  has  been  £531,385,  an  increase  of  £14,161  over 
the  corresponding  period  last  year. 

Manufactures  and  Industries. — The  manufactures  and 
industries  of  Glasgow  present  a  most  wonderful  com- 
bination. So  singularly  varied  and  extensive  are  they, 
that  the  city  '  combines  several  of  the  special  charac- 
teristics of  other  cities.  It  has  the  docks  and  ports  of 
Liverpool,  the  tall  chimneys  and  manufactories  of  Man- 
chester, with  the  shops  of  Regent  Street,  and  the  best 
squares  of  Belgravia.'  'Glasgow,'  says  Dr  Strang, 
'unites  within  itself  a  portion  of  the  cotton-spinning 
and  weaving  manufactures  of  Manchester,  the  printed 
calicoes  of  Lancashire,  the  stuffs  of  Norwich,  the  shawls 
and  mousselines  of  France,  the  silk-throwing  of  Maccles- 
field, the  flax-spinning  of  Ireland,  the  carpets  of  Kid- 
derminster, the  iron  and  engineering  works  of  Wolver- 
hampton and  Birmingham,  the  pottery  and  glass-mak- 
ing of  Staffordshire  and  Newcastle,  the  shipbuilding  of 
London,  the  coal  trade  of  the  Tyne  and  AVear,  and  all 
the  handicrafts  connected  with,  or  dependent  on,  the 
full  development  of  these.  Glasgow  has  also  its  dis- 
tilleries, breweries,  chemical  works,  tan-works,  dye- 
works,  bleachfields,  and  paper  manufactories,  besides  a 
vast  number  of  staple  and  fancy  handloom  fabrics  which 
may  be  strictly  said  to  belong  to  that  locality.'  The 
textile  factories  lie  to  the  E,  while  engineering  shops 
and  foundries  lie  to  the  N",  NE,  and  S,  and  the  ship- 
building yards  are  to  the  W. 

We  have  already  seen  that  there  are  some  traces  of 
early  manufacture  of  cloth  in  Glasgow,  but  in  all  pro- 
bability it  was  very  small.  When  the  letter  of  Guildry 
was  granted  in  1605,  we  have  evidence  in  it  that  silk, 
linen,  and  hardware,  etc.,  from  France,  Flanders,  and 
England,  were  dealt  in,  and  that  there  were  manufac- 
tures of  wool  and  linen  cloth.  The  first  manufactory 
the  city  possessed  was  a  weaving  establishment  started 
by  Robert  Fleyming  in  1638,  who  obtained  from  the 
magistrates  a  lease  of  some  premises  in  the  Drygate.  It 
was  not  till  after  the  Union,  however,  that  any  of  them 
attained  prominence,  when  linen  and  cotton  cloth  and 

as 


GLASGOW 

plaidings  were  tried.  The  manufacture  of  plaiding 
indeed,  as  we  have  already  seen  from  Mr  Commissioner 
Tucker's  report,  seems  to  have  made  some  progress  in  the 
middle  of  the  i7th  century,  but  it  must  have  greatly 
advanced,  for  in  the  close  of  the  century  Glasgow  plaids 
had  attained  some  celebrity  in  Edinburgh,  then  the 
aristocratic  centre  of  the  kingdom.  The  inhabitants 
were  proud  of  their  handiwork,  for  we  find  that  in  1715 
the  magistrates  presented  to  the  Princess  of  Wales, 
afterwards  the  Queen  of  George  II.,  'a  swatch  of  plaids 
as  the  manufactory  peculiar  only  to  this  place  for  keep- 
ing the  place  in  Her  Highness'  remembrance,  and  which 
might  contribute  to  the  advantage  thereof,  and  to  the 
advancement  of  the  credit  of  that  manufactory ' — a  gift 
which  her  royal  highness  graciously  received,  and  re- 
turned her  'hearty  thanks  to  the  magistrats  of  Glasgow 
for  their  fyne  present.'  The  commerce  with  America 
seems  to  have  first  suggested  and  encouraged  the  intro- 
duction of  manufactures  into  the  city  on  a  more 
extended  plan  than  the  home  trade  which  had  pre- 
viously existed.  Defoe,  in  the  first  edition  of  his 
Journey,  in  1723,  makes  no  mention  of  any  industry, 
excepting  tobacco  and  sugar ;  but  in  a  subsequenr 
edition,  1727,  he  mentions,  besides  two  sugar-baking 
houses  and  a  distillery,  that  '  Here  there  is  a  manufac- 
ture of  plaiding,  a  stuff  crossed-striped  with  yellow,  red, 
and  other  mixtures,  for  the  plaids  or  veils  worn  by  the 
women  in  Scotland,' and  also  '  a  manufacture  of  muslins, 
which  they  make  so  good  and  fine  that  gi-eat  quantities 
of  them  are  sent  into  England  and  to  tlie  British  plan- 
tations, where  they  sell  at  a  good  price.  They  are 
generally  striped,  and  are  veiy  much  used  for  aprons  by 
the  ladies,  and  sometimes  in  head-cloths  by  tlie  meaner 
sort  of  English  women.'  He  says  there  also  was  'a 
linen  manufacture,  but  as  that  is  in  common  with  all 
parts  of  Scotland  which  improve  in  it  daily,  I  will  not 
insist  upon  it  as  a  peculiar  here,  though  they  make  a 
very  great  quantity  of  it  and  send  it  to  the  plantations 
as  their  principal  merchandise.'  The  importance  of  the 
linen  weaving  in  Glasgow  is  said  to  date  from  1700,  and 
to  be  somewhat  peculiar.  Ure,  in  his  History  of  Ruther- 
glen  and  East  Kilbride,  teUs  of  a  William  Wilson,  a 
native  of  East  Kilbride,  who  took  the  name  of  William 
Flakefield  from  the  place  at  which  he  had  lived.  Along 
with  his  father  and  brother  he  went  to  Glasgow  near 
the  close  of  the  17th  century,  but  ere  he  had  been  there 
long  he  joined  the  Scottish  Guards  and  went  to  the 
Continent,  where  his  attention  was  attracted  by  a  Ger- 
man handkerchief  woven  in  blue  and  white  chequers. 
So  much  was  he  struck  by  it  that,  having  been  brought 
up  as  a  weaver,  he  determined  to  weave  one  like  it 
whenever  he  had  an  opportunity.  When  he  at  length 
returned  to  Glasgow  in  1700  he  brought  his  handker- 
chief with  him,  and  after  many  patient  trials  and 
failures  he  succeeded  in  making  a  number  like  it — the 
first  of  the  kind  ever  woven  in  Great  Britain.  They 
were  at  once  successful  and  met  with  a  ready  sale,  looms 
multiplied,  and  in  a  few  years  Glasgow  had  become 
famous  for  this  new  branch  of  the  linen  trade.  Every. 
one  who  engaged  in  it  made  money  except  the  unfor- 
tunate who  introduced  it,  and  who,  whether  from  want 
of  capital  or  from  some  return  to  his  early  ro\ing  habits, 
died  in  poverty,  with  the  appointment  of  town  drum- 
mer. 

The  legislature  granted  great  encouragement  to  the 
making  of  linen  in  Scotland,  and  by  this  the  trade  ia 
Glasgow  was  so  fostered  that  the  city  began  to  assume 
importance  as  a  manufacturing  town.  An  Act  of  Parlia- 
ment passed  in  1748 — prohibiting  the  importing  or 
wearing  of  French  cambrics  under  severe  penalties — 
and  another  passed  in  1751 — allowing  weavers  in  flax 
or  hemp  to  settle  and  exercise  their  trades  in  any  part 
of  Scotland,  free  from  all  corporation  dues — conjoined 
with  the  bounty  of  IJd.  per  yard  on  all  linens  exported 
at  or  under  Is.  6d.  per  yard,  contributed  largely  at  the 
outset  to  the  success  of  the  linen  trade.  Between  1730 
and  1745  many  new  industries  were  introduced  into  the 
city.  Glasgow  was  the  first  place  in  Great  Britain  in 
which  inkle  wares  were  manufactured.     In  1732  a  Glas- 

121 


GLASGOW 

gow  citizen  named  Harvey  brought  away  from  Haarlem, 
at  the  risk  of  his  life,  two  inkle  looms  and  a  workman, 
and  by  this  means  fairly  succeeded  in  establishing  the 
manufacture  in  Glasgow,  and  breaking  the  Dutch  mono- 
poly in  the  article.  The  Dutch  workman  he  had  brought 
■with  him  afterwards  took  offence  and  went  to  Manches- 
ter, and  introduced  the  inkle  manufacture  there.  Gib- 
son, in  his  History  of  Glasgow,  gives  an  account  of  the 
manufactures  and  industries  in  1771,  and  it  is  worth 
noticing,  as  he  seems  to  have  taken  great  pains  to 
make  it  exact.  He  mentions  different  kinds  of  linen, 
checkered  handkerchiefs,  diaper,  damask,  cambric,  lawn, 
muslin  handkerchiefs,  '  Glasgows '  or  lawn  mixed  with 
cotton,  and  Carolines  which  are  the  chief  things.  Be- 
sides these  there  were  industries  in  brushes,  combs, 
horn,  and  ivory  ;  copper,  tin,  and  white  iron  ;  delf  and 
stonewares ;  gloves,  handkerchiefs,  silk,  and  linen ; 
men's  hats,  jewellery,  inkles,  iron,  tanned  leather, 
printed  linens,  ropes,  saddlery,  shoes,  stockings,  and 
thread;  and  Spencer,  in  his  English  Traveller  (1771), 
mentions  as  the  industries  the  herring  trade,  the  tobacco 
trade,  the  manufacture  of  woollen  cloth,  stockings,  shal- 
loons, and  cottons ;  muslins,  the  sugar  trade,  distill- 
ing, the  manufacture  of  boots  and  shoes,  and  other 
leather  goods,  including  saddles  ;  and  the  manufacture 
of  house  furniture. 

The  vast  improvements  which  were  effected  in  the 
production  of  cotton  yarn  by  the  inventions  of  Har- 
greaves  and  Sir  Richard  Arkvmght  gave  still  a  fresh 
impulse  to  the  manufactures  aifected,  and  capital,  seek- 
ing new  outlets  after  the  failure  of  the  tobacco  trade, 
was  invested  largely  in  cotton  manufacture.  Through 
the  subsequent  improvements  effected  on  the  steam 
engine  by  James  Watt,  it  became  no  longer  necessary 
for  miUs  to  be  erected  only  where  a  large  water  supply 
was  available,  and  it  was  possible  to  raise  them  in  the 
midst  of  a  rich  coal  field,  and  alongside  of  a  navigable 
river  with  a  port.  The  first  steam  engine  used  in  Glas- 
gow for  spinning  cotton  was  erected  in  Jan.  1792.  It 
was  put  up  at  Springfield,  on  the  S  side  of  the  Clyde, 
opposite  the  lower  steamboat  quay.  This  work,  which 
at  that  time  belonged  to  Mr  Todd,  and  later  to  Todd  and 
Higginbotham,  was  removed  at  immense  expense,  in 
virtue  of  the  Clyde  Trustees  Act  of  1840  to  afford  space 
for  the  extension  of  the  harbour.  The  works  of  Messrs 
S.  Higginbotham,  Sons,  &  Gray  are  now  to  the  E,  opposite 
Glasgow  Green,  and  at  them  spinning,  weaving,  dyeing, 
and  printing  are  carried  on  very  extensively.  A  power- 
loom  had,  however,  been  introduced  previously.  Ac- 
cording to  Pagan  'the  power-loom  was  introduced  to 
Glasgow  in  1773  by  Mr  James  Louis  Robertson  of  Dun- 
blane, who  set  up  two  of  them  in  Argyle  Street,  which 
were  set  in  motion  by  a  large  Newfoundland  dog  per- 
forming the  part  of  a  gin  horse.'  This  statement  has 
since,  however,  in  1871,  in  letters  to  the  Glasgow  Herald, 
been  disputed  by  Mr  John  Robertson,  a  PoUokshaws 
power-loom  tenter,  who  asserts  that  a  man  named  Adam 
Einloch,  whom  he  met  in  1845,  and  who  was  then  eighty- 
five  years  of  age,  '  made  the  fii'st  two  power-looms  that 
ever  were  made  in  the  world,  and  drove  them  with  the 
use  of  a  crank  by  his  own  hand  in  a  court  off  the  Gallow- 
gate'  in  1793.  About  1794  there  were  40  looms  fitted  up 
at  Milton,  and  in  1801  Mr  John  Monteith  had  200  looms 
at  work  at  PoUokshaws  near  Glasgow,  and  the  exten- 
sion of  power-loom  factories  and  of  the  cotton  trade 
generally  became  so  rapid  as  almost  to  exceed  belief 
In  1818  there  were  within  the  city  'eighteen  steam  weav- 
ing factories,  containing  2800  looms,  and  producing  8400 
pieces  of  cloth  weekly.'  There  were  altogether  52  cot- 
ton mills  in  the  city,  with  511,200  spindles,  the  total 
length  being  over  100,000,000  yards,  and  the  value  up- 
wards of  £5,000,000.  Including  the,  at  that  time,  out- 
lying districts  now  in  'natural  Glasgow,' and  all  the 
looms  in  the  surrounding  districts  usually  kept  at  work 
by  Glasgow  merchants,  there  were  nearly  32,000  steam 
and  hand  looms  at  work.  There  were  also  in  the  city 
18  calico  printing  works  and  17  calendering  houses.  In 
1854  the  number  of  cotton  spinning  factories  was  39,  of 
cotton  weaving  factories  37,  of  cotton  spinning  and 
122 


GLASGOW 

weaving  factories  16,  the  number  of  spindles  was 
1,014,972,  the  number  of  power-looms  22,335,  and  the 
number  of  persons  employed  24,414.  In  1875  the  num-  ^ 
ber  of  spindles  was  1,500,000,  the  number  of  power-  I 
looms  27,500,  and  the  number  of  persons  employed 
33,276.  Besides  the  works  of  Messrs  Higginbotham 
already  mentioned,  two  of  the  largest  cotton  factories 
in  Scotland  are  those  of  Messrs  Galbraith  at  Oakbank 
and  St  RoUox.  They  employ  about  1800  persons,  and 
produce  nearly  400,000  yards  of  cotton  per  week. 

The  wooUen  manufactures  in  most  of  their  depart- 
ments are  much  less  prominent  in  Glasgow  and  its 
neighbourhood  than  in  many  other  parts  of  Scotland. 
The  manufacture  of  carpets,  introduced  first  in  1757,  is, 
however,  carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent,  and  em- 
ploys a  number  of  hands.  In  1854  there  were  7  worsted, 
spinning,  and  weaving  factories,  with  14,392  spindles, 
120  power-looms,  and  800  hands.  In  1861  there  were 
11,748  spindles,  14  power-looms,  and  1422  hands;  'and 
though  since  then  considerable  fluctuations  have  been 
caused  by  the  disturbed  condition  of  trade  arising  from 
the  state  of  the  coal  and  iron  industries  in  1873-74,  and 
subsequently  from  the  failure  of  the  City  of  Glasgow 
Bank  in  1878,  there  has  been  on  the  whole  a  propor- 
tional increase.'  One  work  alone  at  Greenhead  now 
employs  upwards  of  500  hands,  and  the  annual  value  of 
the  trade  is  nearly  £200,000.  There  are  also  a  number 
of  silk  and  rope,  flax  and  jute  factories,  which,  in  1854, 
had  74,705  spindles  and  2050  hands.  In  1861  they  had 
44,224  spindles,  231  power-looms,  and  2206  hands;  and 
here  again  a  fitting  increase  has  taken  place. 

Altogether  about  one-eighth  of  the  population  of  Glas- 
gow, between  the  ages  of  10  and  40,  are  employed  in 
connection  with  these  factories  with  their  accompany- 
ing processes  of  bleaching,  dyeing,  and  printing.  An 
establishment  for  the  manufacture  of  bandanas  was 
started  at  Barrowfield  in  1802  by  Messrs  Monteith, 
Bogle,  &  Co.,  and  the  superior  manufacture  of  the 
article  itself  and  the  successful  application  of  the  Tur- 
key-red dye  have  given  to  Glasgow  bandanas  a  fame  and 
a  preference  in  almost  every  commercial  mart  in  the 
world,  and  rendered  this  one  of  the  staple  industries  in 
the  city,  for  the  manufacture,  now  shared  in  by  other 
companies,  is  carried  on  upon  a  scale  of  great  magnitude. 
Independent!}'  of  this  the  manufacturing  operations  of 
various  other  parts  in  Scotland  are  kept  in  motion  by 
Glasgow  capital,  and  even  in  the  North  of  Ireland  vast 
numbers  of  the  muslin  weavers  are  in  the  direct  and 
constant  employment  of  Glasgow  houses.  The  manu- 
facture of  sewed  muslin  is  carried  on  by  over  50  firms  in 
Glasgow,  and  employs  more  than  10,000  women.  The 
Messrs  Macdonald,  who,  in  1856,  erected  the  large  block 
of  warehouses  already  mentioned,  close  to  the  post  office, 
had,  for  some  time  prior  to  their  retirement  during  the 
commercial  crisis  of  1857,  1500  men  and  600  women  on 
their  establishment,  and  gave  besides  employment  to 
between  20,000  and  30,000  needle-women  in  the  W  of 
Scotland  and  the  N  of  Ireland.  They  sent  into  the 
market  annually  a  quantity  of  sewed  muslin  valued  at  < 
half  a  million. 

The  soft  goods  trade  is,  as  might  be  expected,  largely 
developed  in  Glasgow,  and  the  retail  and  wholesale 
trades  are  often  united,  the  merchants  importing  goods 
largely  from  England  and  abroad,  and  sending  them 
out  wholesale  to  smaller  traders  situated  in  almost 
every  village  and  town  in  Scotland,  and  not  a  few  in 
Ireland,  and,  notwithstanding  the  magnitude  of  such 
transactions,  the  poorest  customer  is  supplied  as  readily 
and  courteously  with  a  yard  of  tape  as  the  richest  with  an 
order  of  a  very  much  more  extensive  nature.  Of  the  two 
gentlemen,  brothers,  who  originated  this  mixed  whole- 
sale and  retail  soft  goods  trade,  one  filled  the  ofBce  of 
chief  magistrate  of  the  city,  and  was  knighted.  For  the 
purposes  of  their  business  they,  in  1858,  erected  in  In- 
gram Street  a  very  large  block  of  buildings  in  the  fine 
picturesque  old  Scottish  style.  Another  firm  who 
started  in  the  same  line  of  business  about  1850  at  first 
occupied  premises  with  a  rental  of  £1300,  and  ultimately 
purchased  them. 


GLASGOW 

Chemical  manufactures  were  commenced  in  Glasgow 
in  1786,  when  Mr  Charles  Macintosh,  so  well-known  for 
some  of  his  discoveries  in  applied  chemistry,  introduced 
into  Glasgow  from  Holland  the  manufacture  of  sugar  of 
lead.  This  article  had  been  previously  imported  from 
the  latter  country,  but  iu  a  very  short  time  the  tables 
w»re  turned,  and  instead  of  importing  it  Glasgow  sent 
considerable  quantities  to  Rotterdam.  About  the  same 
time  the  firm  established  the  manufacture  of  cudbear, 
an  article  of  great  importance  in  the  manufacture  of 
dyeing.  In  1799  Mr  Macintosh  also  made  the  first 
preparation  of  chloride  of  lime  in  a  dry  state,  which  has 
since  been  so  extensively  prized  and  used  as  a  bleaching 
powder,  and  stUl  later  he  established  the  well-known 
manufactm'e  of  waterproof  cloths,  which  has,  however, 
latterly  been  transferred  to  Manchester.  In  1800  the 
chemical  manufactures  of  Glasgow  received  a  fresh  great 
impulse  from  the  erection  by  Messrs  Tennant,  Knox,  and 
Co.,  of  a  chemical  work  at  St  RoUox  in  the  northern 
suburbs  of  Glasgow  for  the  manufacture  of  sulphuric 
acid,  chloride  of  lime,  soda,  soap,  etc.  This  is  now  the 
most  extensive  chemical  work  in  the  world,  covering 
upwards  of  13  acres,  containing  between  100  and  200 
furnaces,  employing  about  1200  hands,  and  annually 
transformiug  80,000  tons  of  raw  material  into  soda, 
bleaching  powder,  sulphuric  acid,  etc.  The  firm 
Lave  connections  and  agencies  in  every  considerable 
mart  both  at  home  and  abroad.  In  1843  the  company 
erected  a  '  monster  chimney '  for  the  purpose  of  carrying 
off  and  preventing  injury  from  any  noxious  gases  that 
might  arise  in  the  process  of  their  manufactm'e.  It  is 
stOl  coimted  one  of  the  sights  of  the  city.  It  was 
erected  at  a  cost  of  about  £12,000,  and  measures  40  feet 
in  diameter  at  the  base,  and  455  feet  in  height. 

The  manufacture  of  bottles  and  bottle  glass  was  com- 
menced at  Glasgow  in  1730,  the  first  bottle-house  being 
about  where  the  S  end  of  Jamaica  Street  now  is,  and 
probably  near  the  site  of  the  custom  house.  At  first 
the  trade  does  not  seem  to  have  been  very  brisk,  for 
the  workmen  were  only  employed  for  four  months  in 
the  year,  but  now  the  manufacture  is  carried  on  very 
extensively  in  Anderston  and  Port  Dundas.  The  manu- 
facture of  flint  glass  was  begun  in  1777  by  Messrs 
Cookson  &  Co.  of  Newcastle,  and  under  other  firms  is  still 
carried  on  with  great  vigour.  The  earthenware  manu- 
facture was  commenced  at  Delftfield,  near  the  Broomie- 
law,  in  1748.  This  was  the  first  pottery  in  Scotland, 
but  for  a  long  period  the  quality  was  decidedly  inferior 
to  the  English  make,  and  the  goods  produced  only  of 
the  lowest  quality,  and  the  consumption  in  consequence 
mostly  local.  Since,  however,  about  1829,  and  more 
especially  since  1842,  the  manufacture  has  been  greatly 
increased  and  improved.  New  establishments  have  been 
erected,  and  the  productions  have  attained  a  beauty  of 
design  and  a  delicacy  of  finish  which  now  enable  them  to 
compete  successfully  in  all  departments,  and  in  both  the 
home  and  foreign  markets,  with  the  well-known  Stafford- 
shire ware.  There  are  now  (1882)  about  twenty  potteries 
within  the  city,  the  largest  being  at  Garngad  Hill,  where 
about  1000  hands  are  employed.  The  manufactures  in- 
clude every  kind  of  product  from  the  coarsest  earthen- 
ware to  the  finest  porcelain,  and  the  exports,  both  coast- 
wise and  foreign,  amount  to  over  12,000  tons  a  year. 
The  rope  manufacture,  which  dates  from  1696,  is  con- 
siderable, and  so  is  the  brush  trade,  which  was  first 
introduced  in  1755.  The  tanning  of  leatlier  on  a  con- 
siderable scale  began  soon  after  the  Union,  and  a  shoe 
trade  that  followed  it  had  attained  in  1773  such  import- 
ance that  there  were  two  firms  in  that  year  each  employ- 
ing over  300  hands.  The  trade  is  now  of  large  extent 
for  both  home  and  foreign  supply.  The  brewing  busi- 
ness is  very  old,  and  Glasgow  was  in  the  17th  century 
noted  for  the  excellence  of  its  ale.  It  has  greatly  in- 
creased in  latter  times,  and  Messrs  Tennent,  of  the 
Wellpark  Brewery  in  Duke  Street,  are  among  the  largest 
exporters  of  porter  and  bitter  ale  in  the  kingdom,  their 
produce  bearing  the  highest  character  in  the  foreign 
markets.  There  are  twelve  breweries.  The  first  distil- 
lery was  established  in  Kirk  Street,  Gorbals,  in  1786, 


GLASGOW 

by  William  Menzies,  his  licence  being  the  fourth  granted 
iu  Scotland.  At  that  period  the  duty  little  exceeded 
one  penny  per  gallon,  and  the  best  malt  spirits  sold  at 
about  3s.  per  gallon.  The  trade  both  by  distilleries 
and  agencies  for  houses  situated  elsewhere  has  now  be- 
come a  very  extensive  one,  the  premises  of  the  distillery 
at  Port  Dundas  being  almost  the  largest  in  the  world. 
There  are  many  other  industries,  too  numerous  to  bo 
particularly  noticed,  and,  in  short,  Glasgow  may  be  set 
down  as  the  workshop  of  Scotland,  there  being,  with  a 
very  few  exceptions,  hardly  an  article  useful  to  mankind 
that  is  not  made  in  the  city  of  St  Mungo. 

All  the  iron  trade  of  Scotland,  with  small  exception, 
belongs  directly  or  indirectly  to  Glasgow,  concentrating 
here  its  business,  commercially  and  financially,  and 
drawing  lionce  almost  all  the  articles  of  consumpt  con- 
nected with  its  works  and  workers.  The  ii-on  in- 
dustry, now  of  such  importance  to  the  city,  seems  to 
have  been  introduced  in  1732  by  the  Smithfield  Com- 
pany, for  the  manufacture  for  export  of  all  sorts  of 
hard  ware.  M  'Ure  describes  their  warehouse  as  '  built 
on  an  eminency  near  the  north  side  of  the  great  key 
or  harbour  at  the  Breamielaw,"  and  says  that  it  con- 
tained '  all  sorts  of  iron  work,  from  a  lock  and  key  to 
an  anchor  of  the  greatest  size.'  The  trade  went  on 
in  a  fair  way,  for  in  1772  there  were  imported  into 
the  Clyde  836  tons  of  bar  iron  and  896  tons  of  pig 
iron,  while  the  expoi-ts  of  manufactured  iron  were  671J 
tons,  of  which  a  little  over  489  tons  went  to  Virginia. 
The  trade  had  not  increased  to  a  very  great  extent, 
though  it  was  growing,  but  about  1839,  or  perhaps  a 
little  earlier,  it  began  to  show  signs  of  gi'eater  develop- 
ment, which  rapidly  took  jilace  in  consequence  of  the 
introduction  of  the  hot-air  blast,  devised  by  Mr  James 
B.  Neilson,  manager  of  the  Glasgow  gas-works,  and  of 
the  greater  demand  for  iron  of  all  sorts,  following  on 
the  introduction  of  the  railwaj'  system.  A  great  deal 
of  the  iron  reaches  Glasgow  in  the  form  of  pig  iron,  and 
at  different  works  within  the  city  it  is  rolled  and  manu- 
factured. The  six  furnaces  of  the  Govan  Iron-Works — 
popularly  known  as  '  Dixon's  Blazes,'  from  Mr  Dixon 
who  erected  them  about  1837— in  Gorbals,  form  a 
curious  feature  in  the  city,  and  throw  against  the  sky 
a  lurid  reflection  which  is  seen  all  over  the  city.  Be- 
sides the  Govan  works,  some  of  the  other  large  premises 
are  the  Glasgow  Iron-Works  at  Garngad  Road,  the  Bloch- 
airn  Steel  Works  near  the  Alexandra  Park,  the  Park- 
head  Forge  at  Parkhead,  and  the  Govan  Forge  and  Steel 
Company,  who  manufacture  the  heaviest  class  of  forgings 
for  ships,  marine  and  ordinary  engines,  and  mild  steel 
castings  and  forgings  of  all  description.  For  castings  of 
various  sanitary  and  architectural  appliances,  the  very 
large  Saracen  (at  Possil)  and  Sun  Foundries  (near  St 
Rollox)  have  a  wide  and  well-earned  reputation.  The 
increase  of  the  iron  trade  in  Glasgow  corresponds  with 
that  for  the  whole  of  Scotland.  In  1788  over  the  whole 
country  there  were  only  eight  furnaces  at  work,  and 
their  produce  was  only  one-sixth  of  what  it  would  be 
now  for  the  same  number,  such  has  been  the  improve- 
ment that  has  taken  place  in  the  methods  of  operation. 

The  following  table  shows  the  increase  since — 


Year. 

No.  of  Furnaces. 

Tons  Produced. 

1806,    .    . 

18 

22,840 

1S23,     .     . 

22 

30,500 

1S33,     .     . 

31 

44,000 

1843,     .     . 

G2 

248,000 

1851,     .     . 

114 

740,000 

1861,     .     . 

122 

1.040,000 

1870,     .     . 

1,206,000 

1S79,     .     . 

97 

932,000 

The  prosperitj'  of  the  trade  between  1833  and  1851  is 
well  shown  by  the  great  increase  in  the  number  of  the 
furnaces  and  the  improvements  in  manufacture  by  the  in- 
creased output  that  these  furnaces  could  produce.  From 
an  average  output  of  nearly  1400  tons  per  furnace  in 
1833,  the  quantity  rose,  in  1843,  after  the  introduction 

123 


GLASGOW 


GLASGOW 


of  tlie  hot  blast,  to  4000,  and  this  has  since  again  more 
than  doubled.  In  place  of  the  489  tons  that  had  been 
sent  to  Virginia  in  1772,  there  were  sent  in  1860,  to 
America  alone,  no  less  than  78,000  tons,  and  though 
this  in  1861  fell  in  consequence  of  the  war  to  35,000 
tons,  France  increased  its  consumption  by  14,000  tons, 
and  Spain  increased  hers  by  the  same  amount.  In 
1880  the  total  shipments  of  iron  from  Glasgow  amounted 
to  259,425  tons.  In  1881  this  was  much  exceeded,  as 
the  shipments  amounted  to  339,407  tons,  and  for  the 
present  year  (1882),  up  to  the  end  of  September,  the 
shipments  are  44,709  tons  over  those  for  the  correspond- 
ing period  last  year,  while  at  the  same  date  the  stock 
stored  in  Glasgow  amounts  to  626,766  tons. 

Another  of  the  great  sources  of  Glasgow's  prosperity 
and  success  has  been  the  abundance  of  coal  in  the  sur- 
rounding district,  which  has  not  only  provided  fuel  for 
the  iron-works,  the  factories,  and  the  steamships,  but 
has  also  formed  in  itself  an  important  article  of  export. 
When  the  coal  in  the  neighbourhood  began  to  be  worked 
is  not  exactly  known,  but  we  know  that  in  Scotland  in 
the  14th  century  coal  was  a  common  article  of  merchan- 
dise, and  was  exported  and  sometimes  taken  as  ballast 
for  ships.  The  first  notice  we  find  of  the  Glasgow  coal- 
field is  in  1678,  when  the  Archbishop  let  the  '  coil- 
heuchtis  and  colis  within  the  baronie  of  glasgw '  for  the 
space  of  three  years  at  the  yearly  rent  of  £40  Scots 
(equal  to  about  £5  sterling  at  the  time),  and  270  '  laids ' 
of  coal  (the  '  laid '  being,  according  to  Mr  Macgeorgo, 
about  320  pounds).  These  coal  pits  were  probably  in 
Gorbals.  In  1655  the  town  council  let  these  pits,  or 
others  probably  in  the  same  quarter  in  '  the  muir 
heughe,'  at  a  rent  of  £33,  4s.,  the  tenants  to  employ 
eight  hewers,  and  not  to  charge  more  than  4d.  for  nine 
gallons.  In  1760  the  price  per  cart  of  about  half  a  ton 
was  Is.  3d.,  but  they  became  after  this  rapidly  dearer, 
for  in  1778  they  were  3s.  for  about  the  same  quantity. 
In  the  latter  year  the  whole  quantity  taken  to  Glasgow, 
including  what  was  used  for  Glasgow,  Greenock,  and 
Port  Glasgow,  as  well  as  what  was  exported  elsewhere, 
was  only  181,800  carts,  or  about  82,000  tons.  In  1836 
there  were  37  pits  in  the  neighbourhood,  from  which 
561,049  tons  of  coal  were  brought  to  Glasgow,  of  which 
124  were  exported,  and  437,047  tons  were  used  in  the 
cit}^  In  1852  the  exports  were  200,560  tons,  and  the 
whole  quantity  brought  into  the  city  was  probably 
about  1,074,558.  In  1858  the  quantity  of  coal,  cinders, 
and  culm  exported  coastwise  was  76,744  tons,  and 
abroad  56,696,  or  a  total  of  133,440  tons.  The  follow- 
ing table  shows  the  later  growth  of  the  trade  : — 


Year.           |     Coastwise. 

Foreig:n. 

Total. 

1S60,    . 
1S71,    . 

1878,    . 
ISSl,    . 

104,031 
187,159 
271,178 

65,058 
153,256 
295,542 
129,038 

159,989 
340,415 
566,720 

The  coal  and  iron  combined  have  made  the  Clyde  also 
the  great  centre  for  the  construction  of  iron  ships, 
marine  steam  engines  and  boilers,  and  a  vast  amount  of 
kindred  work,  as  is  highly  fitting,  seeing  that  it  was 
tlie  cradle  of  steam  navigation.  Henry  Bell,  as  has 
been  already  mentioned,  had  the  Comet  built  at  Port 
Glasgow  by  Messrs  John  Wood  &  Co.  in  1811.  The 
Comet  made  her  trial  trip  on  18  Jan.  1812,  and  on 
her  first  trip  from  Glasgow  to  Greenock  she  made 
5  miles  an  hour  against  a  head  wind.  She  was  only 
of  28  tons  burden  and  with  an  engine  of  4  horse- 
power, and  cost  but  £192  ;  yet  from  this  small  begin- 
ning dates  the  great  and  important  shipbuilding  in- 
dustry on  the  Clyde.  Bell's  invention  was  not  patented, 
and  was  promptly  seized  by  able,  enterprising,  monied 
men  to  be  copied  and  improved.  By  1813  she  was  fol- 
lowed \>y  the  Elizabeth (W  horse-power),  by  the  Clyde{\i 
horse-power),  and  the  Glasgow  (14  horse-power),  all 
built  by  Wood  at  Port  Glasgow,  and  engined  respec- 
tively by  Thomson  of  Tradeston,  by  Robertson,  and  by 
Bell.  The  new  navigation  was  at  first  supposed  to  be 
124 


suitable  only  for  smooth  inland  waters,  and  did  not  for 
a  little  pass  beyond  the  waters  of  the  Clyde  ;  but  a 
steam  vessel  of  better  build  was  put  on  trial  by  David 
Napier  to  carry  goods  and  passengers  in  the  coasting 
trade  in  the  open  Channel,  and  the  trial  proved  so  suc- 
cessful that  its  results  are  now  apparent  in  every  sea 
that  has  been  navigated  by  civilised  men.  The  building 
of  sailing  vessels  on  the  Clyde  went  on  increasing  with 
the  increase  of  commerce,  and  now  the  building  of 
steam  vessels  became  of  rapid  importance.  During  the 
eighteen  years,  however,  after  the  Comet's  first  voyage, 
all  the  vessels  were  small  and  mostly  of  timber,  and  the 
whole  aggregate  did  not  exceed  5000  tons,  but  now 
many  large  ones  came  to  be  required,  and  both  small 
and  large  were  eventually  constructed  of  iron.  Many 
other  improvements  in  construction  were  also  made,  a 
considerable  number  of  them  being  due  to  David  Napier, 
who  had  made  the  boiler  of  the  Comet,  and  who 
ultimately  combined  shipbuilding  with  his  former 
trade  of  marine  engine-making,  and  started  on  a  career 
that  was  highly  suecessful  from  every  point  of  view. 
Besides  his  many  improvements  in  boQers  and  engines, 
Napier  first  suggested  the  improved  clipper  bow  by 
making  the  stem  taper  instead  of  coming  in  with  a 
sharp  round  bend.  The  shipbuilding,  however,  though 
connected  with  Glasgow,  lies  rather  within  the  limits  of 
the  Clyde,  and  further  details  in  connection  with  it  will 
be  found  in  the  article  Clyde. 

The  Harbour. — The  harbour  and  docks  of  Glasgow 
afford  one  of  the  most  magnificent  illustrations  that  can 
be  found,  of  the  assistance  that  may  be  given  to  nature 
by  the  artifice  and  skill  of  man.  'Nowhere,'  says 
M.  Simonin,  in  an  article  on  Glasgow  and  the  Clyde, 
published  in  the  Nouvclle  Revue  of  Nov.  1880,  '  as 
at  Glasgow  is  there  revealed  in  such  luminous  traits 
all  that  can  be  done  by  the  efforts  of  man,  combined 
with  patience,  energy,  courage,  and  perseverance,  to 
assist  nature,  and  if  necessary  to  correct  her.  To  widen 
and  deepen  a  river  previously  rebellious  against  carrying 
boats,  to  turn  it  into  a  great  maritime  canal,  to  bring 
the  waters  where  it  was  necessary  to  bring  the  largest 
ships,  and,  finally,  to  gather  a  population  of  750,000 
inhabitants,  all  devoted  to  commerce  and  industry  upon 
a  spot  where  only  j'esterday  there  was  but  a  modest 
little  town,  almost  destitute  of  every  species  of  traffic — ■ 
such  is  the  miracle  which  in  less  than  a  century  men 
have  performed  at  Glasgow. '  Within  the  last  hundred 
years  or  so  the  Clyde  navigation  works  have,  says  Mr 
Deas,  the  engineer  to  the  Trust,  converted  the  river 
Clyde  '  between  Glasgow  and  the  sea,  from  a  shallow 
stream,  navigable  only  by  fishing  wherries  of  at  most  4 
or  5  feet  draught,  and  fordable  even  12  miles  below  Glas- 
gow, to  a  great  channel  of  the  sea,  bearing  on  its  waters 
the  ships  of  all  nations,  and  of  the  deepest  draiight,  bring- 
ing to  this  City  of  the  West  the  fruits  and  ores  of  Spain, 
the  wines  of  Portugal  and  France,  the  palm-oil  and 
ivory  of  Africa,  the  teas,  spices,  cotton,  and  jute  of 
India,  the  teas  of  China,  the  cotton,  cattle,  corn,  ffour, 
beef,  timber — even  doors  and  windows  ready-made — • 
and  the  numerous  notions  of  America,  the  corns  of 
Egypt  and  Russia,  the  flour  and  wines  of  Hungary,  the 
sugai',  teak,  and  mahogany  of  the  West  Indies,  the 
wools,  preserved  meats,  and  gold  of  the  great  Australian 
colonies,  the  food  supplies  of  the  sister  Isle,  and  the 
thousands  of  other  things  which  go  to  make  the  imports 
of  the  two-mile-long  harbour  of  Glasgow,  which,  until 
a  few  years  ago,  was  simply  the  river  Clyde  itself  lined 
on  both  sides  with  wharfs  and  quays,  and  carrying  away 
to  India,  our  colonies — even  to  Fiji,  and  to  every  foreign 
land — the  varied  products  of  this  great  city,  and  of  the 
whole  South  and  West  of  Scotland,  from  the  coal  and 
iron  of  our  mines  to  the  finest  products  of  our  looms, 
and  the  most  improved  types  of  our  varied  machinery.' 

The  details  of  the  deepening  of  the  river  Clyde  have 
been  already  given  in  the  article  Clyde,  and  the  details 
here  given  ^vill  be  confined  to  the  harbour  proper.  The 
harbour  extends  along  the  river  for  a  distance  of  practi- 
cally over  two  miles  and  a  half.  It  is  for  this  distance 
from  400   to  500  feet  wide ;   and  besides  the  natural 


GLASGOW 

basin  of  the  river  includes  two  tiilal  docks,  one  of  them 
the  largest  in  Scotland.  It  is  divided  into  two  parts, 
known  as  the  Upper  Harbour  and  the  Lower  Harbour — 
the  former  extending  from  Albert  Bridge  to  Glasgow 
Bridge,  the  latter  from  Glasgow  Bridge  down  to  the 
mouth  of  the  river  Kelvin.  The  r^uays  on  the  N  bank 
of  the  river  are  as  follows,  the  length  beint;  given  in 
yards  :  In  the  Upper  Harbour  the  Custom  House  Quay 
extending  from  Victoria  Bridge  to  Glasgow  Bridge  (504), 
Broomielaw  or  the  Steamboat  Quay  (697),  Anderston 
Quay  (536),  Lancefield  Quay  (185),  Finnieston  Quay 
(297),  Stobcross  Quay  (383),  Stobcross  Slip  Docks  (180), 
Yorkhill  Wharf  and  Govan  and  Partick  Wharf  (805), 
the  total  length  of  quayage  on  the  N  side,  exclusive  of 
docks,  being  3587  yards.  On  the  S  side,  from  Glasgow 
Bridge  downwards,  are  Clyde  Place  Quay  (405),  Wind- 
mUlcroft  Quay  (299),  Springfield  Quay  and  Termiuus 
Quay  (772),  Mavisbank  Quay  (516),  Plantation  Quay 
(700),  the  total  length  of  quayage  on  the  S  side,  exclu- 
sive of  Kingston  Dock,  being  2692  yards. 

The  following  table  shows  the  total  length  of  quayage 
at  different  periods  exclusive  of  docks  : — 


North  Quay 

South  Quay 

Total  Quayafi;e 

in  Yards. 

in  Yards. 

in  Yards. 

ISOO,     . 

3S2 

382 

1S20,     . 

697 

697 

1S40,     . 

1,233 

740 

1,973 

1S50,     . 

1,879 

1,612 

3,391 

1S60,     . 

2,348 

2,028 

4,376 

1S70,     . 

2,782 

2,494 

6,276 

1S30,     . 

3,587 

2,692 

6,279 

During  the  same  time  the  water-area  of  the  harbour, 
exclusive  of  docks,  increased  from  4  to  over  90  acres. 
Exclusive  of  docks  the  quayage  is  thus  at  present  6279 
yards,  and  the  water  space  nearly  100  acres,  while  the 
quay  space  is  about  48  acres,  and  the  shed  area  about 
14  acres.  Inclusive  of  docks  the  length  of  quayage  is 
10,451  yards,  the  water  space  close  on  140  acres,  and 
the  qua}'  and  shed  and  railway  terminus  space  is  about 
100  acres.  The  river  steamers  and  coasting  steam  lines 
find  accommodation  mostly  along  the  upper  quays  on 
the  N  side,  while  the  large  American  and  foreign 
steamers  have  their  berths  along  the  lower  quays. 

Though  docks  apart  from  the  river  basin  had  been 
recommended  as  early  as  1806,  and  Acts  of  Parliament 
for  their  construction  obtained  in  1840  and  1846,  it 
was  not  till  1867  that  the  first  one  was  erected.  This 
was  Kingston  Dock,  on  the  S  bank  of  the  river  behind 
Windmillcroft  Quay.  It  is  an  oblong  basin,  with  5J 
acres  of  water  space,  suuounded  by  a  timber  wharf 
giving  830  lineal  yards  of  quayage.  The  entrance  is 
between  Windmillcroft  and  Springfield  Quays,  and  is 
about  90  feet  wide.  The  site  cost  £40,000,  while 
£115,000  was  expended  on  construction.  The  depth  of 
water  at  full  flow  is  19  feet,  and  at  full  ebb  10  feet.  In 
1846  permission  was  obtained  from  Parliament  to  erect 
a  tidal  basin  and  a  wet  dock  with  1458  lineal  yards  of 
quayage,  17  acres  of  water  space,  and  16  acres  of  quay 
accommodation,  and  land  was  acquired  at  Stobcross  for 
this  purpose,  but  nothing  was  done,  as  it  was  deemed 
easier  and  cheaper  to  extend  the  quays  along  the  river. 
AVhen  this  became  no  longer  easily  possible  the  Stob- 
cross plan  was  revived,  but  on  a  much  larger  scale,  the 
Edinburgh  and  Glasgow  railway  (now  part  of  the  North 
British  KaQway  system)  having  in  the  meantime  re- 
ceived permission  to  erect  a  station  at  the  proposed 
dock.  Parliamentary  sanction  was  in  1870  obtained  for 
the  new  plan,  which  showed  a  total  area  used  of  61  acres 
(of  which  334  were  water  space),  and  a  quayage  of  3334 
lineal  yards,  the  site  being  at  Stobcross  on  the  N  side 
of  the  river  below  Finnieston  Quay.  The  works  were 
begun  in  1872,  and  finished  so  far  that  the  dock  could 
be  opened  in  1877,  when  it  was  first  entered  by  the 
Anchor  Line  steamer  Victoria.  The  last  stone  of  the 
entire  work  was  laid  in  1880,  and  the  basin  has,  by  ex- 
press permission  of  the  Queen,  received  the  name  of  the 
Queen's  Dock.     It  is  the  largest  dock  ii    Scotland,  and 


GLASGOW 

'comprises  three  Basins — the  North  Basin,  1866  feet 
long  by  270  wide  ;  the  South  Basin,  1647  feet  long  by 
230  feet  wide,  with  a  quay  between  them  195  feet  broad ; 
and  an  Outer  Basin,  695  feet  wide  at  its  widest  part  by 
1000  feet  long.  The  dock  is  tidal,'  and  has  a  depth  of 
20  feet  at  low  water.  The  entrance  is  at  the  SW  corner, 
and  is  100  feet  wide.  It  is  crossed  by  a  swing-bridge 
40  feet  6  inches  wide,  181  feet  6  inches  long,  constructed 
to  carry  a  rolling  load  of  60  tons  on  any  part  of  its 
roadway,  and  worked  by  hydraulic  power.  It  was 
made  by  Sir  William  Armstrong  &  Co.  The  founda- 
tions were  found  to  be  very  bad,  consisting  almost 
entirely  of  water-bearing  gravel  and  sand,  ^vith  mud 
in  some  places,  but  the  difficulty  was  got  over  by  the 
use  of  groups  of  concrete  cylinders,  a  plan  here  first 
adopted  and  carried  out  with  great  success.  In  Planta- 
tion Quay  for  instance,  which  was  built  on  a  similar 
substructure,  part  of  the  foundation  is  on  a  quicksand. 
The  road  in  connection,  extending  from  Stobcross  Street 
to  Sandyford  Street,  is  989  yards  long  and  55  feet  wide. 
'  The  average  depth  of  cuttiug  was  29^  feet,  the  greatest 
depth  being  43A  feet ;'  300,000  cubic  yards  of  material 
were  removed,  nearly  80,000  by  the  use  of  dynamite. 
The  cost  of  the  road  alone,  including  land,  was  £45,000. 
The  rise  in  the  value  of  land  near  the  docks  has,  since  the 
first  inception  of  the  scheme,  been  very  marked.  The 
ground  bought  in  1843  cost  6s.  6d.  per  square  yard,  that 
bought  in  1872  35s.  for  the  same  amount,  and  ground 
in  the  neighbourhood  has  since  sold  for  65s.  The 
original  estimated  cost  of  the  dock  was,  inclusive  of 
land,  £1,163,000,  the  total  cost  ultimately  was  about  a 
million  and  a  half,  while  it  afi'ords  accommodation  for 
about  1,000,000  tons  of  shipping.  By  far  the  greater  por- 
tion of  the  whole  of  the  harbour  quays  are  built  with  solid 
stonework,  and  considerable  pains  have  been  taken,  and 
sums  of  money  expended,  in  repairing  many  of  the  older 
erections  which  had,  owing  to  the  constant  dredging 
and  deepening  of  the  bed  of  the  river,  in  many  places 
shown  signs  of  a  tendency  to  slip  into  the  river.  The 
walls  of  the  Queen's  Dock,  for  example,  are  built  of 
concrete  rubble  with  Portland  cement  instead  of  ordinary 
mortar,  and  'faced  with  freestone  ashlar  in  courses  rang- 
ing from  18  to  15  inches  in  thickness,  the  stones  being 
not  less  than  4  feet  long  by  2  broad  on  the  beds,  and 
the  headers  not  more  than  10  feet  apart  centres.  The 
Cope  is  of  granite,  3  feet  6  inches  broad  by  17  inches 
thick,  in  lengths  of  not  less  than  4  feet,  and  the  moor- 
ing paals  or  ballards,  which  are  32  feet  apart  centres, 
are  built  into  the  wall  immediately  behind  the  Cope.' 
The  sheds  round  the  quays  are  '  60  feet  wide  by  15  feet 
high  to  under  side  of  run  beams,  and  27  feet  to  ridge  of 
roof;  the  back  walls  are  of  brick,  19  inches  thick,  with 
freestone  base,  course  cope,  and  door  openings ;  the 
roofs  are  of  iron,  and  the  fronts  are  closed  in  their 
entire  lengths  with  sliding  gates  of  timber.' 

To  the  W  of  the  entrance  to  the  Queen's  Dock  are 
the  Kelvinhaugh  slip  docks,  and  there  are  also  other 
two  private  slip  docks — one  at  Pointhouse  Shipbuilding 
Yard,  and  one  at  Meadowside  Shipbuilding  Yard.  At 
the  latter,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kelvin,  there  is  also  a 
private  graving  dock,  constructed  in  1856  by  Messrs 
Tod  &  Henderson,  but  now  in  possession  of  Messrs 
W.  &  D.  Henderson  &  Co.,  to  whom  the  adjoining 
Meadowside  Shipbuilding  Yard  belongs.  It  is  500  feet 
long,  56  wide  at  the  entrance,  and  has  IS  feet  of  water 
on  the  sUl  at  spring  tides  and  16  at  neaps.  There  is  a 
public  graving  dock  on  the  S  side  of  the  river  at  Govan, 
opposite  the  entrance  to  the  Queen's  Dock.  It  was 
begun  in  1869,  and  finished  and  opened  in  1875.  It 
is  565  feet  in  length  within  the  caisson,  72  wide  at 
the  entrance,  and  has  22  feet  of  water  on  the  sQl 
at  ordinary  spring  tides,  20  at  ordinary  neaps,  and 
12  feet  6  in.  at  low  water.  In  1873  authority  was 
also  obtained  to  construct  another  beside  the  first,  but 
it  has  not  yet  been  begun.  The  present  dock  is  one 
of  the  largest  in  the  kingdom.  'There  are  a  number 
of  cranes  connected  with  the  harbour,  some  of  them  of 
a  powerful  and  elaborate  description.  Most  of  them 
are  worked  by  steam.     On  the  Custom  House  Quay  are 

125 


GLASGOW 

two  6-ton  cranes  ;  on  the  Broomielaw  one  6  tons  and  one 

7  tons  ;  on  Finnieston  Quay  one  of  30  and  one  of  60 
tons  ;  at  the  E  end  of  Stobcross  Quay  one  of  75  tons  ; 
and  on  the  North  Quay  in  Queen's  Dock  four  coaling 
cranes  of  20  tons,  which  are  worked  by  the  same  hori- 
zontal engines  which  work  the  swing  gate.  On  Clyde 
Place  Quay  is  one  of  10  tons  ;  on  Windmillcroft  Quay 
one  of  40  tons  ;  on  Terminus  Quay  four  coaling  cranes, 
three  of  20  tons  and  one  of  25  ;  on  Plantation  Quay 
there  are  two  cranes,  one  of  25  tons  and  one  of  60  tons. 
The  average  revenue  from  the  cranes  is  about  £6000  per 
annum.  The  heavy  cranes  on  Stobcross  and  Plantation 
Quays  are  similar  in  construction,  and  rest  on  a  founda- 
tion such  as  no  other  cranes  in  the  world  have,  viz.,  a 
cluster  of  concrete  cylinders  sunk  into  and  resting  on  a 
quicksand.  These  cylinders  reach  to  more  than  50  feet 
below  the  level  of  the  quay.  The  cylinders  are  finished 
at  3  feet  below  water-level,  and  above  that  the  seat  of 
the  crane  rises  to  a  height  of  38  feet,  reaching  a  height 
of  16  feet  above  the  level  of  the  quay.  The  seat  up  to 
9  feet  above  the  quay  level  is  44  by  38  feet ;  at  the  top 
it  is  32  feet  square.  The  weight  in  the  masonry  above 
the  seat  is  estimated  at  3800  tons,  and  of  the  crane 
without  a  load  at  150  tons.  The  cranes  are  of  wrought 
iron,  and  are  light  and  elegant  in  their  construction. 
They  lift  a  load  of  60  tons  at  the  rate  of  3  feet  10  inches 
per  minute,  and  turn  it  round  at  the  rate  of  129  feet 
6  inches  per  minute,  and  by  a  hand- winch  the  load  can 
be  adjusted  to  a  hairbreadth,  a  degree  of  accuracy  which 
is  of  the  utmost  convenience  to  engineers  in  adjusting 
machinery  in  new  steamers.  The  river  is  now  crossed 
within  the  limits  of  the  harbour  by  five  ferries  at  York 
Street,  Clyde  Street,  Hyde  Park,  Stobcross,  and  Kelvin- 
haugh.  These  have  screw  steam  ferry  boats,  carrying 
from  46  to  108  passengers.  Steam  was  first  used  in 
1865,  but  now  it  would  be  impossible  to  overtake  the 
trafEc  without  it.  At  Govan,  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Kelvin,  are  two  ferries  also  worked  by  steam,  and  fur- 
nished with  boats,  in  which  carriages,  carts,  live  stock, 
etc. ,  may  cross  the  river.  Of  the  two  steamers  in  use 
at  Govan,  one  carries  3  horses  and  carts  and  50  pas- 
sengers, or  200  passengers  alone  ;  while  the  other  carries 

8  horses  and  carts  and  140  passengers,  or  500  passengers 
alone.  In  1880  the  number  of  carriages,  carts,  cabs, 
and  barrows  that  crossed  at  Govan  Ferry  was  49,309  ; 
while  the  passengers  at  all  the  ferries,  Govan  included, 
was  8,270,632.  Three  of  the  ferry  steamers  are  also 
floating  fire-engines,  and  as  such  have  done  excellent 
service.  The  boats  at  Clyde  Street,  Stobcross,  and 
Govan  ply  both  day  and  night ;  the  others  work  from 
five  A.M.  to  eleven  P.M.  There  are  also  a  ferry  at  Oat- 
lands,  near  the  S  end  of  Glasgow  Green,  outside  the 
harbour  limits,  and  a  small  ferry  across  the  mouth  of 
the  Kelvin,  both  carried  on  by  row-boat.  The  slaughter- 
house for  foreign  animals  is  at  Pointhouse,  at  the  W 
end  of  Yorkhill  Wharf ;  while  the  landing  wharf  and 
quarantine  station  for  them  is  at  the  W  end  of 
Plantation  Quay,  on  the  S  side  of  the  river.  There 
is  also  a  harbour  on  the  Forth  and  Clyde  Canal  at 
Port  Dundas ;  but  it  is  noticed  in  the  article  on  that 
canal. 

In  1800  the  harbour  was  confined  to  part  of  the 
Broomielaw  ;  in  1840  it  extended  from  the  upper  har- 
bour at  the  old  bridge  to  Lancefield  Street,  and  on  the 
S  side  along  Clyde  Place  Quay.  In  1880  it  extended 
along  the  river  on  both  sides  from  Victoria  Bridge  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Kelvin,  a  distance  of  over  two  miles 
on  each  side,  exclusive  of  Kingston  and  Queen's  Docks, 
and  yet,  notwithstanding  this,  the  accommodation  is 
still  insufficient  for  the  trade,  for  it  has  been  resolved 
in  November  of  the  present  year  (1882),  by  the  trustees 
of  the  Clyde  Navigation,  that  permission  is  to  be  asked 
in  the  next  session  of  parliarpent  to  construct  on  the 
lands  of  Cessnock  at  Plantation  Quay  tidal  basins,  which 
are  to  cover  about  80  acres.  These  are  to  comprise,  on 
the  N  side  of  Renfrew  Road,  two  tidal  docks  with  a 
connecting  basin  crossed  by  swing  or  draw  bridges,  and 
two  graving  docks  on  the  E  side  of  Cessnock  Road. 
They  are  to  have  lines  of  tramway  for  the  accommoda- 
126 


GLASGOW 

tion  of  their  traffic,  and  the  total  cost  will  probably  be 
over  a  million  and  a  half. 

Tlie  Clyde  Trust. — All  the  improvements  on  the  har- 
bour and  river  have  been  carried  out  under  the  care  of 
the  Trustees  of  the  Clyde  Navigation,  whose  jurisdiction 
extends  from  the  upper  harbour  for  more  than  18  miles 
down  the  river  to  a  line  drawn  from  Newark  Castle  to 
Cardross,  beyond  this  the  cares  of  deepening  the  chan- 
nel rests  on  the  Lighthouse  Trust.  Under  an  act  of 
parliament,  passed  in  1759,  power  was  given  to  the 
magistrates  and  town  council  of  Glasgow  'to  cleanse, 
scour,  straighten,  and  improve '  the  river  Clyde  from 
Dumbuck  Ford  to  the  Bridge  of  Glasgow,  and  further 
empowering  them  to  charge  certain  duties  for  defray- 
ing the  expenses,  these  to  be  levied  as  soon  as  the 
locks  recommended  by  Smeaton  were  finished.  For- 
tunately for  Glasgow  no  locks  were  ever  built,  and  in 
1770  the  town  cormcil  procured  another  act,  which 
declared  that  the  magistrates  and  council  were  '  now 
advised  that  by  contracting  the  channel  of  the  said 
river  Clyde,  and  building  and  erecting  jetties,  banks, 
walls,  works,  and  fences  in  and  upon  the  same  river, 
and  dredging  the  same  in  proper  places  between  the 
lower  end  of  Dumbuck  Ford  and  the  Bridge  of  Glasgow, 
the  said  river  Clyde  may  be  further  deepened  and  the 
navigation  thereof  more  effectually  improved  than  by 
any  lock  or  dam,'  and  then  went  on  to  provide  that  the 
former  duties,  which  were  not  to  be  payable  till  the 
locks  were  erected,  should  now  be  payable  as  soon  as  the 
Clyde  should  be  'navigable  from  the  lower  end  oi  Bum- 
luck  Ford  to  the  Bridge  of  Glasgow  aforesaid,  so  as 
there  shall  be  at  least  7  feet  water  at  neap  tides  in 
every  part  of  the  said  river  within  the  bounds  aforesaid.' 
By  a  third  act,  obtained  in  1809,  the  depth  was  fixed  at 
9  feet,  and  the  magistrates  and  council  were  appointed 
Trustees  of  the  Clyde  Navigation.  In  1825  power  was 
given  by  a  fourth  act  to  deepen  the  river  to  13  feet,  and 
the  constitution  of  the  Trust  was  widened  by  the  addi- 
tion as  Trustees  of  'five  other  persons  interested  in 
the  trade  and  navigation  of  the  river  and  firth  of  Clyde,' 
which  persons  were  to  be  appointed  by  the  magistrates 
and  council.  In  1840  a  further  act  was  obtained  pro- 
viding for  the  deepening  of  the  river  to  17  feet  at  neaps, 
and  between  1846  and  1882  various  acts  were  obtained 
arranging  for  the  construction  of  docks,  the  borrowing 
of  money,  and  the  provision  of  harbour  tramways,  and 
for  the  construction  of  gi'aving  docks.  One  of  these, 
obtained  in  1858,  and  known  as  the  Consolidation  Act, 
materially  afi'ected  the  constitution  of  the  Trust,  which, 
however,  remains  as  it  has  always  been,  one  of  the  most 
public-spirited  and  business-like  bodies  in  Scotland. 
By  this  act  the  number  of  Trustees  was  fixed  at  twenty- 
five,  consisting  of  the  Lord  Provost  and  nine  members 
of  the  town  council,  two  members  chosen  by  the  Cham- 
ber of  Commerce,  two  of  the  matriculated  members  of 
the  Merchants'  House,  two  chosen  by  the  members  of 
the  Trades'  House  of  Glasgow,  and  nine  by  the  ship- 
owners and  ratepayers,  the  qualification  of  the  latter 
members  of  the  Trust  being  ownership  to  the  extent  of 
at  least  250  tons,  or  payment  of  rates  to  at  least  the 
extent  of  £25  per  annum ;  and  the  qualification  of  those 
who  elect  them,  ownership  to  the  extent  of  at  least  100 
tons  or  payment  of  £10  of  rates  or  upwards. 

The  details  of  the  revenue  and  expenditure  of  the 
Clyde  Trust  will  be  found  in  the  article  Clyde. 

Bridges. — Within  the  limits  of  the  city  the  river  is 
crossed  by  nine  bridges.  The  one  farthest  down  the 
river,  immediately  below  Glasgow  Bridge,  is  a  large  and 
powerful  iron  lattice  girder  bridge,  by  which  the  Cale- 
donian railway  traffic  is  carried  to  the  Central  station. 
It  was  finished  in  1879.  Proceeding  up  the  river  the 
next  bridge  is  Glasgow  Bridge,  one  of  the  busiest  places 
in  Glasgow,  as  continuing  the  line  of  Jamaica  Street  to 
Bridge  Street  and  Eglinton  Street.  It  forms  the  principal 
communication  with  the  S  side.  It  used  formerly  to  be 
called  the  Broomielaw  Bridge  ;  the  original  structure, 
which  was  founded  in  1768,  was  500  feet  long  and  30 
wide  within  the  parapets.  It  had  seven  arches.  About 
1830  it  was,  however,  found  inadequate  for  the  traffic, 


GLASGOW 

and  in  1833  the  foundation  of  the  present  bridge,  now 
called  Glasgow  Bridge,  was  laid.  The  casing  is  of 
Aberdeen  granite.  There  are  seven  arches  ;  the  lengtli 
is  560  feet  and  the  width  60  feet.  Permission  has 
again  been  obtained  to  widen  it,  but  no  operations 
have  yet  taken  place.  It  cost,  inclusive  of  e.xtra 
ground,  £38,000,  and  was,  at  the  time  of  its  erec- 
tion, one  of  the  widest  and  finest  bridges  in  the 
kingdom.  While  the  bridge  was  being  rebuilt,  a 
wooden  accommodation  bridge  was  erected  a  little 
farther  E,  opposite  South  Portland  Street,  but  having 
become  insecure  in  1846,  it  was  removed,  and  the 
Portland  Street  Suspension  Bridge  erected  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  heritors  of  Gorbals.  The  present  structure 
is  the  result  of  alteration  and  improvement  in  1870-71. 
Still  further  E,  and  forming  an  important  link  between 
the  N  and  S  sides  of  the  river,  is  Victoria  Bridge.  This 
erection  occupies  the  site  of  the  old  and  first  bridge  of 
Glasgow.  AVe  have  already  seen  that  a  bridge,  pro- 
bably of  wood,  is  mentioned  as  existing  here  in  the 
time  of  Wallace.  It  was  about  1350  replaced  by  Bishop 
Rae's  Bridge,  a  great  work  for  the  time,  consisting  of 
eight  stone  arches,  12  feet  wide  between  parapets.  In 
course  of  time  this  naturally  became  somewhat  decayed, 
and  in  1658  an  order  was  made  that  no  cart  was  to 
cross  on  wheels,  but  was  to  have  the  wheels  removed 
and  to  be  '  harled '  across — a  method  which  hardly  com- 
mends itself  to  us  now-a-days  as  likely  to  be  better  for 
the  bridge.  In  1671,  during  the  Fair,  the  arch  at  the 
S  end  fell.  It  seems  to  have  been  merely  rebuilt,  but 
in  1777  the  bridge  was  widened  by  10  feet  added  to  its 
eastern  side  ;  and  to  narrow  the  river,  and  so  assist  in  the 
prevention  of  floods,  two  of  the  arches  on  the  N  side 
were  built  up.  In  this  condition  it  remained  till  1821, 
when  it  was  again  repaired  ;  but  in  1845  an  act  of 
parliament  was  obtained  for  the  erection  of  a  new 
one  on  the  same  site,  and  it  was  finally  pulled  down 
in  1847,  and  replaced  by  the  present  bridge,  which 
was  opened  in  the  beginning  of  1854.  It  somewhat 
resembles  Glasgow  Bridge,  and  is  of  the  same  width, 
but  is  faced  with  Kingston  granite.  It  was  named 
Victoria  Bridge  in  honour  of  the  Queen.  It  cost 
£40,000.  It  is  445  feet  long  and  60  wide,  with 
five  arches  of  from  67  to  80  feet  of  span.  The  next 
bridge  is  a  high  lattice  girder  bridge,  opened  in  1870, 
by  which  the  Union  and  the  Glasgow  and  South- 
western railways  cross  to  St  Enoch's  station.  Next 
is  the  Albert  I3ridge,  which  has  replaced  what  was 
known  as  the  Hutchesontown  Bridge.  The  first  bridge 
that  was  erected  here  was  one  built  in  1792,  when  the 
Hutchesontown  lands  were  feued.  It  had  iive  arches, 
and  was  406  feet  long  and  26  wide  ;  but  it  was  hardly 
finished  when,  in  1795,  it  was  destroyed  by  a  flood  on 
the  river.  In  1803  there  was  a  light  wooden  bridge  for 
foot  passengers,  free  during  the  week,  but  with  a  pontage 
of  Id.  on  Sunday.  The  third  bridge,  a  very  plain  struc- 
ture 406  feet  long  and  36  wide,  with  five  arches,  was  not 
erected  till  1829,  and  from  the  flow  of  water  from  the 
weir  about  30  yards  up  the  river — erected  along  with 
the  adjoining  lock  in  order  that  a  hypothetical  shipping 
trade  might  reach  PiUtherglen,  but  removed  in  1879 — 
the  foundations  became  insecure,  and  the  bridge  was 
closed  in  1868.  It  was  replaced  by  the  present  bridge, 
founded  then,  and  opened  in  1871,  having  cost,  inclu- 
sive of  street  alterations  and  retaining  walls,  £65,000. 
It  was  named  in  honour  of  the  Prince  Consort.  It 
crosses  the  river  in  three  magnificent  spans,  the  centre 
one  being  114  feet  wide,  and  the  others  108  feet.  The 
foundations  rest  on  cast-iron  cylinders  filled  with  cement, 
and  sunk  deep  in  the  bed  of  the  river.  The  abutments 
and  piers  are  of  white  and  red  granite.  The  parapet  is 
of  open  work,  and  has  in  the  centre  a  close  space  with 
the  city  arms.  On  the  abutments  are  panels,  with 
medallions  of  the  Queen  and  Prince  Consort.  It  is  410 
feet  long,  and  the  roadway  is  60  feet  wide.  Opposite 
the  middle  of  the  Green  is  a  foot  suspension  bridge, 
erected  in  1855  for  the  accommodation  of  factory  hands 
in  the  east  end.  It  is  known  as  Harvey's  Suspension 
Bridge  (from  the  promoter  of  its  erection.  Bailie  Har- 


GLASGOW 

vey),  or  as  St  Andrew's  Suspension  Bridge,  the  latter 
being  the  authorised  name.  Before  its  erection  there 
was  a  ferry  here.  About  a  mile  farther  up,  the  river  is 
crossed,  opposite  the  line  of  Main  Street,  13ridgeton,  by 
Ruthergleu  Bridge,  an  old  and  not  very  beautiful 
structure,  dating  from  1776,  and  built  at  an  expense 
of  about  £2000,  the  burgesses  of  Ruthergleu  bearing 
half.  Previous  to  this  there  was  a  ford.  About  Ij 
mile  above  Ruthergleu  Bridge  is  Dalmarnock  Bridge, 
only  half  of  which  is  within  the  city,  the  rest  lying 
partly  in  the  county  and  partly  in  Rutherglen,  the 
boundary  lines  meeting  in  the  centre  of  the  bridge. 
It  continues  the  line  of  Dalmarnock  Road  towards 
Rutherglen.  The  Clyde  bridges  are  managed  by  trus- 
tees, whose  ordinary  revenue  amounted,  for  the  year 
ending  31  May  1882,  to  £303,  Is.  6d.  ;  the  ordinary 
expenditure  to  £375,  17s.  ;  the  extraordinary  revenue 
to  £430,  14s.  3d.  ;  the  extraordinary  expenditure  to 
£146,  15s.  ;  the  Glasgow  Bridge  widening  account  to 
£28,444,  2s.  4d.  ;  the  total  assets  to  £37,325,  10s.  6d.  ; 
and  the  total  indebtedness  to  £28,444,  2s.  4d.,  being 
the  amount  above  noticed. 

Besides  the  bridges  over  the  Clyde  there  is  an  elegant 
one-arch  bridge,  fancifully  called  the  Bridge  of  Sighs, 
leading  across  the  Molendinar  ravine  to  the  Necropolis. 
It  has  a  span  of  60  feet,  and  was  erected  in  1833  at  a  cost 
of  £1240.  The  Kelvin  is  crossed  by  a  number  of  bridges. 
Proceeding  upwards  from  the  mouth  there  is  first  a 
girder  bridge,  by  which  the  Stobcross  railway  crosses ; 
then  a  stone  bridge,  for  a  continuation  of  Bridge  Street, 
Partick,  to  Old  Dumbarton  Road.  New  Dumbarton  Road 
crosses  the  stream  by  a  handsome  iron  bridge  resting  on 
stone  abutments,  while  a  stone  arch  carries  the  roadway 
over  the  adjoining  mill-lade.  The  cost  of  the  bridge, 
which  was  opened  in  1877,  and  the  adjoining  roadway 
was  £19,000.  Within  the  limits  of  the  West  End  Park 
the  Kelvin  is  crossed  by  four  foot  bridges — one  of  stone ; 
one  a  strong  lattice  girder  bridge  for  carriage  trafiic, 
finished  in  1881  ;  and  two  wooden  foot  bridges,  one  of 
which  was  erected  for  the  use  of  the  Prince  of  Wales 
when  he  laid  the  foundation-stone  of  the  University 
buUdings.  Two  stone  bridges  with  open  parapets  con- 
nect the  city  with  Hillhead  on  the  line  of  AVoodlands 
Road  and  Great  Western  Road,  and  at  the  latter  point, 
to  suit  low-level  streets,  a  low-level  bridge  crosses  dia- 
gonally beneath  the  upper  one.  Other  two  handsome 
stone  bridges,  which  cross  the  stream  further  up,  are 
both  in  Hillhead. 

Cemeteries.  —  Some  ancient  cemeteries  in  the  city 
have  been  converted  into  building  ground  or  market 
places ;  while  others  at  the  Cathedral,  St  David's,  St 
Mary's,  Gorbals,  Calton,  and  Bridgeton  still  remain, 
but  are  not  now  important  for  their  original  purpose, 
but  as  lungs  for  the  city.  The  cathedral  cemetery  is 
the  oldest,  the  first  part  of  it  that  was  used  being  very 
much  crowded  with  gravestones  and  monuments ;  the 
newer  parts  are  laid  out  in  somewhat  more  modern 
taste.  There  are  a  number  of  interesting  monuments, 
including  one  to  some  martyrs  of  the  Covenanting  times. 
The  other  old  cemeteries  show  no  peculiar  features. 
Inside  the  city  there  were  also  intramural  cemeteries  at 
North  Street  and  Main  Street  in  Anderston,  Cheapside 
Street  in  Anderston,  Christchurch  in  Mile  End,  and 
Greendyke  Street  Episcopalian  church,  in  a  crypt  imder 
the  United  Presbyterian  church  in  Wellington  Street, 
and  for  Roman  Catholics  in  Abercromby  Street.  In  a 
report  furnished  in  1869  by  the  Master  of  Works  and 
the  medical  officer  for  the  city,  under  a  remit  from  the 
Board  of  Police,  it  was  recommended  that,  except  in 
very  special  cases,  the  intramural  cemeteries  of  St 
David's  ;  College  ;  North  Street  and  Main  Street,  An- 
derston ;  Cheapside  Street,  Anderston  ;  Calton ;  Bridge- 
ton  ;  Rutherglen  Loan,  Gorbals  ;  St  Mungo's,  Cathedral ; 
Abercromby  Street,  Roman  Catholic ;  Christchurch, 
Mile  End ;  Greendyke  Street ;  and  Wellington  Street 
should  no  longer  be  used.  "The  interments  in  these 
have  fallen  from  2279  in  1863  to  60  last  year,  there 
being  a  steady  annual  decrease  ;  and  now  interments 
take  place  in  the  following  extramural  cemeteries : — 

127 


GLASGOW 

The  Necropolis — ■which  is  now,  however,  owing  to  the 
growth  of  Dennistoun,  hy  no  means  outside  the  city, 
Sighthill  Cemetery,  the  Eastern  Necropolis  or  Janefield, 
the  Southern  Necropolis,  Craigton  at  Paisley  Road, 
Sandymount  at  Shettleston,  Dalbeath  at  London  Road, 
Cathcart  at  New  Cathcart,  and  the  Western  Necro- 
polis at  Maryhill.  The  Necropolis  was  laid  out  ori- 
ginally under  a  scheme  promoted  by  the  exertions  of 
Dr  Ewing  of  Levenside  and  Dr  Strang,  the  then 
city  chamberlain,  and  is  the  parent  of  all  the  garden 
cemeteries  throughout  Scotland.  It  lies  E  of  the 
cathedral,  from  the  grounds  of  which  it  is  separated 
by  the  ravine  of  the  Molendinar  Burn.  The  entrance 
is  by  a  Tudor  gateway  at  the  Bridge  of  Sighs,  already 
referred  to.  The  site  lies  along  the  slope  and  brow 
of  a  steep  hillside — formerly  known  as  Craig's  or  the 
Kr  Park,  at  one  time  the  property  of  the  Merchants' 
House — rising  to  a  height  of  225  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  Clyde,  and  commanding  from  its  summit  an  in- 
teresting and  beautiful  view,  with  the  city  and  its  spires 
to  the  SW,  and  a  long  sti'etch  of  finely  diversified  and 
wooded  country  to  the  E.  It  was  begun  in  1828,  the 
intention  being  to  lay  it  out  after  the  model  of  Pere-la- 
Chaise  at  Paris,  to  which,  in  point  of  situation,  it  bears 
some  resemblance,  aud  was  opened  in  1833.  It  is  beau- 
tifully laid  out  and  kept,  and  has,  ^vith  its  trees,  flowers, 
shrubs,  and  gravel  walks,  the  appearance  of  a  fine 
terraced  garden.  Many  of  the  monuments  show  con- 
siderable architectural  aud  artistic  taste.  One  of  the 
oldest  and  most  conspicuous  is  a  monument  to  John 
Knox.  It  consists  of  a  Doric  column  of  somewhat 
heavy  proportions,  rising  from  a  square  base,  and  with 
a  broad  capital  on  which  is  placed  a  statue  of  the  Re- 
former, 12  feet  high,  by  Forrest.  The  sides  of  the  base 
are  nearly  covered  with  an  inscription,  giving  informa- 
tion relative  to  Knox  and  the  Reformation.  Another 
conspicuous  monument  is  a  Tudor  structm'e  on  a  quad- 
rangular base,  with  a  colossal  statue,  also  by  Forrest, 
to  the  memory  of  William  M 'Gavin,  author  of  the 
Protestant.  Other  interesting  monuments  are  a  beauti- 
ful Ionic  structure  to  the  memory  of  the  Rev.  Dr  John 
Dick  ;  a  large  circular  Norman  mausoleum  for  the  late 
Major  Monteith  ;  a  mausoleum  for  Mr  Houldsworth, 
with  fine  figures  of  Faith,  Hope,  and  Charity  ;  a  pretty 
facade  at  the  sepulchre  of  the  Jews  at  the  NW  corner 
of  the  grounds  ;  and  statues  or  other  structures  to  per- 
petuate the  memory  of  Charles  Tennant  of  St  Rollox, 
Colin  Dunlop  of  ToUcross,  Colonel  Patterson,  the  Rev. 
Dr  Hough,  the  Rev.  Dr  Wardlaw,  the  Very  Rev.  Prin- 
cipal Macfarlane,  the  Rev.  Edward  Irving,  the  Rev.  Dr 
Black,  the  Rev.  DrW.  Anderson,  James  Ewing  of  Strath - 
leven,  William  Motherwell  the  poet,  Dr  Macnish,  J.  H. 
Alexander  of  the  old  Theatre  Royal,  and  Michael  Scott, 
the  author  of  Tom  Cringle's  Log. 

Sighthill  Cemetery,  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city  on  the 
NE,  about  600  yards  N  of  St  Rollox,  was  laid  out  in 
1840  by  a  joint  stock  company.  It  occupies  a  sloping 
situation,  rising  to  a  height  of  nearly  400  feet  above  sea- 
level,  and  contains  46  acres  of  land  available  for  burial 
purposes.  The  grounds  are  entered  by  a  fine  gateway 
— close  to  which  is  a  tasteful  chapel  designed  and  used 
for  burial  services — and  are  well  laid  out  with  winding 
walks  and  shrubberies.  There  is  a  magnificent  view 
extending  from  Tinto  to  the  Grampians.  There  are  a 
number  of  fine  monuments,  including  an  obelisk  erected 
to  the  memory  of  Hardie  and  Baird,  who  were  executed 
at  Stirling  in  1820  on  a  charge  of  high  treason  in  con- 
nection with  the  early  Chartist  troubles.  More  inter- 
ments take  place  at  Sighthill  than  at  any  of  the  other 
cemeteries  in  Glasgow.  The  Eastern  Necropolis  is  on  the 
E  at  Parkhead,  off  the  Great  Eastern  Road.  It  contains 
about  10  acres  laid  out  with  walks  intersecting  at  right 
angles.  The  Southern  Necropolis  on  the  lands  of  Little 
Govan  in  the  SE  suburbs  is  about  ^  mile  SSE  of  Albert 
Bridge.  The  ground,  which  extends  over  about  12 
acres,  is  flat,  and  is  laid  out  with  flower-beds  and  walks 
intersecting  at  right  angles.  The  Western  Necropolis  is 
on  undulating  ground  at  Lochburn  Road,  Maryhill. 
It  belongs  to  a  joint  stock  company,  and  covers  54  acres, 
128 


GLASGOW 

of  which  only  a  small  portion  is  as  yet  taken  up.  It 
is  tastefully  laid  out,  aud  there  are  extensive  views  to 
the  N  aud  W  along  to  the  Campsie  and  Kilpatrick  HUls, 
with  Ben  Lomond  and  the  Gleniffer  Braes.  None  of 
the  other  cemeteries  calls  for  particular  comment. 

Publie  Parks.  — Glasgow  is  well  supplied  with  public 
parks  which  are  well  laid  out  and  kept,  and  carefully 
tended.  There  are  the  Green,  the  West  End  or  Kelvin- 
grove  Park,  the  Alexandra  Park,  and  the  Queen's  Park. 
The  oldest  of  these  is  the  Green,  which  lies  along  the 
river  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  city  for  a  distance  of 
more  than  a  mile,  and  covers  a  space  of  about  140  acres. 
It  is  all  that  now  remains  of  the  extensive  commonty 
belonging  to  the  city,  which  at  one  time  swept  all  round 
the  E  side  from  this  point  to  Cowcaddens,  but  which 
has  from  time  to  time  been  appropriated  for  building 
purposes.  In  some  of  the  earlier  charters  the  Green  is 
mentioned  under  the  name  of  the  Bishop's  Forest,  but 
probably  at  that  time  but  little  of  it  was  available  for 
the  use  of  the  citizens.  The  Old  Green  extended  from 
the  present  Green  to  Stockwell  Street,  but  was  given  up 
for  buUdings  in  the  end  of  last  century.  The  first  part 
of  the  present  Green,  devoted  to  the  amusement  of  the 
people,  was  the  E  portion,  known  as  the  King's  Park, 
which  was  granted  by  James  II.  in  1450  for  the  use  of 
the  community.  Parts  of  it  seem,  however,  to  have 
been  alienated,  for  in  1574  the  community  protested 
against  any  further  encroachments,  and  in  1576  the 
magistrates  and  council  resolved  that  thereafter  no  part 
of  the  city,  '  commoun  muris, '  were  to  be  given  to  any 
one.  Notwithstanding  this,  fresh  efl^orts  at  alienation 
on  the  part  of  the  council  had  again  to  be  resisted  by 
popular  effort  in  1600  and  in  1745.  In  1756  the  town 
council  gave  off  a  portion  of  the  ground  for  a  saw-mUl 
which,  however,  they  had  to  send  men  to  destroy,  so 
strong  was  the  popular  outcry ;  and  the  tenacity  of  the 
citizens  in  resisting  all  encroachments  has  been  shown 
many  times  since.  In  1847  resistance  was  successfully 
made  against  a  bill  promoted  bj'  the  Glasgow  and  Airdrie 
Railway  Company  to  enable  them  to  lay  a  line  across 
the  Green.  In  1868  the  citizens  had  to  resort  to  inter- 
dict, in  order  to  prevent  their  own  town  council  from 
throwing  more  than  2000  yards  of  the  Green  into  Green- 
head  Street,  and  though  there  are  valuable  seams  of  coal 
and  iron  known  to  exist  beneath,  yet  nothing  short  of 
the  banki'uptcy  of  the  city  would  allow  of  their  being 
worked. 

The  Green  was  enlarged  in  1773  by  the  purchase  of 
about  30  acres  from  various  persons,  and  the  addition 
then  made  came  to  be  known  as  the  High  Green  ;  and 
in  1792  a  still  further  addition  was  made  of  the  land 
lying  between  the  King's  Park  aud  the  bend  of  the 
river,  and  known  as  the  Provost's  or  Fleshers'  Haugh. 
For  generations  the  Green  was  allowed  to  remain  almost 
in  a  state  of  nature,  being  cut  up  with  springs,  runnels, 
and  marshy  places ;  latterly  it  has,  however,  — especially 
for  the  purpose  of  providing  employment  for  workmen 
in  times  of  distress  in  1820  and  iu  1875 — been  drained 
and  improved  as  to  level  and  laying  out,  and  has  now 
a  fine  sward,  with  numbers  of  excellent  paths  and  drives 
crossing  it  in  various  directions.  It  serves  as  a  daily 
recreation  ground  for  cricket,  football,  and  other 
athletic  sports.  At  the  W  end  of  the  King's  Park  is  a 
gymnasium,  the  gift  of  a  Glasgow  gentleman  who  after- 
wards settled  in  Manchester.  It  is  furnished  with  all 
the  common  gymnastic  appliances,  and  in  fine  weather 
swarms  with  youthful  gj'mnasts.  A  large  space  west- 
ward from  the  gymnasium  aud  round  the  obelisk  erected 
to  the  memory  of  Admiral  Nelson,  is  used  for  great 
open  air  public  meetings,  where  public  preachers  and 
orators  of  all  descriptions  hold  forth  to  an  admiring 
multitude,  simple  enough  to  accept  as  realities,  matters 
the  fact  of  which  exists  only  in  the  speakers'  imagina- 
tions. The  Low  Green  and  some  of  the  parts  to  the 
W  are  generally  pretty  thickly  sprinkled  with  loafers 
of  decidedly  unprepossessing  appearance  lounging  on 
the  railings  and  seats  or  slumbering  on  the  turf.  In 
summer  the  river  opposite  is  studded  with  pleasure 
boats  of  aU  sorts.     The  Humane  Society's  House,  on 


GLASGOW 

the  river  bank  close  to  the  St  Andrew's  Suspension 
Bridge,  is  a  neat  though  plain  two-story  building,  whose 
purpose  is  sufficiently  indicated  by  the  name.  Previous 
to  those  modern  days  when  wealth  and  fashion  moved 
westward,  the  Green  used  to  be  the  summer  rendezvous 
of  the  pride  and  beauty  of  the  city,  but  now  it  is  often 
far  from  being  a  pleasant  place,  for  the  forest  of  factory 
chimneys  on  both  sides,  in  certain  states  of  the  wind, 
roll  over  on  the  Green  volumes  of  smoke  in  black  and 
bitter  abundance.  The  number  of  springs  that  abound 
in  it  made  it  from  an  early  date  a  public  washing  and 
bleaching  green,  and  part  of  it  is  still  set  aside  for  this 
purpose.  It  was  the  field  for  all  grand  military  exer- 
cises and  displays.  Here  Regent  Moray's  army  en- 
camped before  Langside  ;  here  Prince  Charles  Edward 
reviewed  his  army  on  the  retreat  from  Derby  ;  here,  in 
the  stirring  times  when  George  III.  was  King  and 
almost  every  shopkeeper  was  a  soldier,  drill  was  carried 
on ;  and  here  the  modern  volunteers  too  parade  from 
time  to  time,  about  6000  of  them  having  been  reviewed 
on  the  Green  by  the  Prince  of  "Wales  in  1876.  At  the 
W  entrance,  opposite  the  Justiciary  Court-House,  is  a 
small  granite  drinking  fountain  erected  by  some  temper- 
ance advocates  to  commemorate  the  services  of  Sir 
William  Collins  to  the  temperance  cause.  It  has,  on 
the  W  side,  a  bronze  panel  with  a  medallion  portrait  of 
Sir  William. 

The  Kelvingi-ove  or  West  End  Park  lies  along  the 
banks  of  the  Kelvin,  between  Woodside  and  Sandyford. 
Originally  the  park  was  only  on  the  E  side,  and  was 
formed  from  lands  on  the  old  estates  of  Kelvingrove 
and  Woodside,  purchased  by  the  town  council  in  1853 
for  this  purpose  at  a  cost  of  £y9,569.  A  portion  of  the 
ground  was,  however,  set  aside  for  feus  in  so  judicious  a 
manner  that  it  affords  fair  promise  of  ultimately  reim- 
bursing the  total  cost.  The  lauds  comprise  a  tabular 
hUl  on  the  E  side,  with  rapid  slopes  on  the  N  and  S, 
and  a  longer  but  stni  sharp  slope  on  the  W  down  to 
the  Kelvin,  from  which  there  is  an  undulating  rise  to 
Gilmorehill  with  the  University  buildings.  The  por- 
tion of  the  ground  on  the  W  side  of  the  Kelvin  was 
acquired  from  the  University  authorities.  The  part 
set  apart  for  feuing  includes  all  the  top  of  the  hill 
to  the  E,  which  is  now  occupied  by  the  magnificent 
houses  that  form  Park  Circus,  Park  Street,  Park  Ter- 
race, and  Park  Quadrant.  "The  part  kept  np  as  a 
public  park  contains  67  acres,  and  includes  the  old  man- 
sion-house of  Kelvingrove  and  a  number  of  fine  old 
trees  that  grew  on  the  old  estates.  Of  the  67  acres,  7 
may  be  either  feued,  sold,  or  devoted  to  the  public,  the 
remaining  60  are  entirely  for  park  purposes,  and  the 
total  cost  to  the  public  has  been,  after  deduction  of 
feus,  etc.,  £110,967,  Is.  4d.  The  ground  was  laid 
out,  and  the  walks,  drives,  and  shrubberies  arranged 
according  to  designs  by  Sir  Joseph  Paxton.  In  front  of 
the  houses  on  the  top,  carriage  drives  sweep  round  the 
entire  circuit  of  the  park  ;  another  carriage  drive  winds 
through  at  a  lower  level,  and  another  is  now  (18S2)  in 
course  of  formation  from  Sandyford  across  the  Kelvin 
to  the  gate  at  Anderston  Free  Church,  near  the  NE 
corner  of  the  University.  From  Park  Terrace  a  noble 
staircase,  formed  by  three  long  flights  of  stairs,  the  steps 
being  60  feet  'nide,  passes  down  to  the  lower  level  of  the 
S  part  of  the  park.  The  stair  is  formed  of  Aberdeen 
granite,  and  has  an  open  balustrade.  On  the  crest 
opposite  West  Park  Street  is  a  lofty  flagstaff,  with — at 
its  base — a  mortar  and  two  cannons  captured  at  Sebas- 
topol.  From  this  point,  as  well  as  from  the  higher 
■walks  and  terraces,  there  are  good  views  along  the  river 
and  across  to  Renfrewshire.  The  park  contains  an  ele- 
gant fountain  and  the  Kelvingrove  Museum,  both  of 
which  are  noticed  elsewhere. 

The  Queen's  Park  lies  on  the  S  side,  about  1^  mile 
straight  S  from  Glasgow  Bridge,  along  Bridge  Street, 
Eglinton  Street,  and  Victoria  Eoad,  and  close  to  Cross- 
hill.  It  was  opened  in  1862,  and  comprises  80  acres, 
chiefly  on  a  rising-gi-ound  or  low  broad-based  hill.  The 
entrance  is  at  the  end  of  Victoria  Road,  and  from  a 
highly  ornamental  gateway  a  broad  path,  broken  near 


GLASGOW 

the  centre  by  a  massive  granite  staircase,  leads  to  the 
flagstaff  on  the  summit  of  the  hill.  'The  park  was 
acquired  at  an  expense  of  £30,000,  and  the  plans  for 
laying  it  out  were  prepared  by  Sir  Joseph  Paxton.  A 
considerable  portion  of  it  is  laid  out  in  grass,  on  which 
visitors  may  wander  as  freely  as  on  the  Green,  while 
the  rest  is  covered  with  shrubberies  and  clumps  of 
young  trees  resembling  those  in  Kelvingrove  Park. 
From  the  flagstaff  on  the  summit  there  is  a  very  fine 
view.  On  the  N  the  city  of  Glasgow  spreads  out  in  aU 
its  length  from  Partick  to  ToUcross,  while  beyond  are 
the  Campsie  Hills.  Further  to  the  left  are  the  wooded 
heights  above  Kilpatrick,  and  if  the  atmosphere  be  clear 
the  distant  Ben  Lomond  may  be  seen  above  and  beyond 
them.  On  the  right  is  the  Vale  of  Clyde,  the  valley  of 
the  Cart,  and  the  Cathkin  Braes.  Close  at  hand  on  the 
W  is  the  wooded  knoll  of  CamphUl,  where  Regent 
Murray  encamped,  and  the  ground  on  the  SE  was  the 
scene  of  the  battle  of  Langside.  The  ground  at  the 
SW  corner  of  the  park  is  laid  out  as  a  bowling-green, 
and  is  occupied  by  the  Wellcroft  Bowling  Club.  Once 
the  trees  are  grown,  this  will  be  one  of  the  finest  public 
parks  in  Britain. 

Alexandra  Park  lies  at  the  E  end  of  the  city,  adjacent 
to  the  NE  side  of  Dennistoun,  and  about  IJ  mUe  NE 
of  the  junction  of  High  Street  and  Duke  Street.  Part 
of  it  was  opened  in  1870  and  the  remainder  in  1872. 
The  ground  was  purchased,  and  this  park  formed,  by 
the  City  Improvement  Trust  under  the  1866  Act,  but 
the  care  of  it  has  since  devolved  on  the  council  under 
the  'Glasgow  Public  Parks  Act,  1859.'  It  is  on  the 
lands  of  Kennyhill,  and  the  site  was  formerly  occupied 
by  a  distillery.  The  approach  from  the  W  from  Castle 
Street,  known  as  the  Alexandra  Parade,  nearly  a  mile 
long  and  80  feet  ■\\'ide,  was  constructed  chiefly  at  the 
expense  of  the  late  Mr  Dennistoun  of  GolfhiU.  The 
park  covers  a  space  of  74  acres,  and  has  cost  down  to 
the  present  time  £53,909,  5s.  7d.,  of  which  £40,000  was 
paid  by  the  City  Improvement  Trust.  A  considerable 
portion  of  it  is  laid  out  in  grass,  part  of  it  as  a  golf 
course,  and  it  contains  a  swimming  pond.  It  commands 
from  its  higher  parts  a  varied  and  interesting  prospect, 
ranging  from  the  wooded  landscape  of  lower  Clydesdale 
to  the  mountains  of  Argyllshire. 

The  parks  are  managed  by  the  town  conncil,  acting 
as  trustees  under  the  Glasgow  Public  Parks  Acts  of 
1859  and  1878.  The  borrowing  powers  of  £200,000  are 
exhausted.  The  maximum  rate  of  assessment  is  2d. 
per  £,  and  a  sinking  fund  of  'one  pound  per  cent, 
per  annum  on  amount  of  sums  borrowed  and  owing  at 
time '  has  to  be  set  aside  every  year.  The  ordinary 
revenue  for  the  year  ending  31  May  1882  was  £27,378, 
18s.  7d.,  the  ordinary  expenditure  £22,740,  3s.,  the 
extraordinary  revenue  £3520,  Is.  Id.,  and  the  extra- 
ordinary expenditure  £4501,  6s.  4d.  ;  thedebts£211,642 
18s.  5d.,  and  the  assets  £244,819,  16s.  5d. 

Monuments. — A  large  number  of  the  public  monu- 
ments in  Glasgow  are  collected  in  George  Square,  but 
there  are  others  in  other  parts  of  the  city.  In  George 
Square  there  are  no  less  than  twelve  statues.  In  the 
centre  is  a  colossal  statue  of  Sir  Walter  Scott,  by 
Ritchie,  placed  on  the  top  of  a  fluted  Doric  column 
80  feet  high,  erected  in  1837.  This  was  the  first  of 
the  many  monuments  erected  to  the  '  Wizard  of  the 
North.'  On  the  E  in  the  centre  line  of  the  square  is  a 
bronze  equestrian  statue  of  Prince  Albert,  by  Baron 
Marochetti,  erected  in  1866,  and  on  the  W  side  to 
correspond  is  a  bronze  equestrian  statue  of  the  Queen 
by  the  same  artist.  It  originally  stood  at  the  W  end 
of  St  Vincent  Place,  where  it  was  erected  in  1854.  but  it 
was  removed  to  its  present  position  in  1866,  when  that 
of  the  Prince  Consort  was  erected.  They  both  stand  on 
granite  pedestals.  At  the  NW  corner  of  the  square  is 
a  bronze  statue  of  Sir  Robert  Peel,  by  Mossman,  erected 
in  1858.  At  the  NE  corner  is  a  bronze  statue  of  James 
Oswald,  one  of  the  members  for  Glasgow  in  the  first 
parliament  after  the  Reform  Bill.  It  was  erected  in 
1856,  and  long  stood  at  Charing  Cross,  but  was  after- 
wards removed  to  George  Square.     At  the  SE  corner  of 

129 


GLASGOW 

the  square  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Dr  Thomas  Graham, 
seated,  by  Brodie,  erected  in  1872.  At  the  SW 
corner  is  a  bronze  statue  of  James  Watt,  seated,  by 
Chantrey,  erected  in  1832.  Between  Watt  and  Graham 
on  the  S  side  are  bronze  statues  of  Sir  John  Moore  and 
Lord  Clyde,  both  standing.  The  former,  whicli  is  by 
Flaxman,  was  erected  in  1819  ;  the  latter,  by  Foley, 
■was  erected  in  1868.  It  at  first  stood  on  the  W  side  of 
the  square.  A  little  behind  Sir  John  Moore  is  a  bronze 
statue  of  Bums,  standing,  by  Ewing,  which  was  unveiled 
in  1S77  by  Lord  Houghton,  in  presence  of  some  30,000 
spectators.  The  pedestal  has  bas-reliefs.  The  com- 
panion statue — a  little  behind  Lord  Clyde — is  a  bronze 
standing  figure  of  Campbell,  the  poet.  The  last  of  the 
statues  in  the  square  is  one  of  Dr  Livingstone,  in  the 
middle  of  the  W  side  ;  all  the  pedestals  are  of  granite. 
There  is  an  equestrian  statue  of  William  IIL  on  the 
pavement  in  front  of  the  Tontine  buildings  in  the 
Trongate.  It  was  erected  and  presented  to  the  city  in 
1735  by  James  Macrae,  a  native  of  Glasgow,  who  had 
been  governor  of  Madras.  On  Glasgow  Green  is  a 
sandstone  obeUsk  144  feet  high,  to  the  memory  of  Lord 
Nelson.  It  was  erected  in  1806  at  a  cost  of  £2075. 
On  the  four  sides  of  the  base  are  inscribed  the  names  of 
his  greatest  battles.  In  the  Royal  Infirmary  square  is 
a  bronze  statue,  by  Mossman,  of  James  Lumsden,  Lord 
Provost  of  Glasgow  in  1843,  and  long  honorary  treasurer 
of  the  Royal  Infirmary.  It  is  8J  feet  high,  stands  on 
a  pedestal  10 J  feet  high,  and  was  erected  in  the  end  of 
1862.  Near  by,  close  to  the  Barony  Church,  is  a  bronze 
statue  of  Dr  Norman  Macleod,  erected  in  1881. 

In  front  of  the  Royal  Exchange  in  Queen  Street  is  a 
bronze  equestrian  statue  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington  by 
Marochetti,  one  of  the  finest  monuments  in  Glasgow. 
It  stands  on  a  granite  pedestal,  and  was  erected  in  1844 
at  a  cost  of  £10,000.  On  the  pedestal  are  four  bronze 
bas-reliefs,  those  at  the  sides  representing  the  battles  of 
Assaye  and  Waterloo,  while  those  at  the  end  represent 
the  peaceful  life  of  a  peasant  before  he  is  called  away  to 
war,  and  his  happy  return  to  his  home  and  kindred  at 
the  conclusion  of  peace.  In  niches  in  the  Ingram  Street 
front  of  Hutcheson's  Hospital  are  two  ancient  and  some- 
what primitive. looking  statues  of  the  brothers  Hutche- 
son.  Near  the  centre  of  the  S  part  of  Kelvingrove  Park 
is  a  tasteful  and  beautiful — excepting  the  gilding  of  the 
surmounting  bronze  figure — fountain  erected  in  com- 
memoration of  the  introduction  of  a  water  supply  from 
Loch  Katrine  into  Glasgow,  and  in  honour  of  Lord 
Provost  Stewart,  who  took  a  prominent  part  in  the 
carrying  out  of  the  scheme.  It  was  inaugurated  in 
1872.  The  outer  basin  is  60  feet  in  diameter,  and  the 
fountain  which  rises  to  a  height  of  40  feet,  and  is  richly 
sculptured,  is  surmounted  by  a  bronze  figure  by  John 
Mossman,  representing  the  Lady  of  the  Lake.  There 
are  also  bronze  panels,  one  with  a  medallion  portrait  of 
Lord  Provost  Stewart,  the  others  with  allegorical  designs 
representing  the  introduction  of  the  water  supply.  On 
a  granite  pedestal,  a  short  distance  olf,  is  a  bronze  group, 
representing  a  tigress  carrjdng  a  dead  peacock  to  her 
lair,  and  her  cubs  greedily  welcoming  the  prey.  It  was 
presented  to  the  city  by  John  S.  Kennedy,  a  native  of 
Glasgow,  who  removed  to  New  York.  Close  by  is  a 
small  bronze  group  of  a  girl  playing  with  a  dog,  and 
intended  to  illustrate  the  lines  from  Coleridge  : — 

'  He  prayeth  best  who  loveth  best 
All  things  both  great  and  small. 
For  the  dear  God  who  loveth  us. 
He  taade  and  loveth  all.' 

A  neat  suite  of  dwelling-houses  at  the  corner  of  Buchanan 
Street  and  Sauchiehall  Street  was  built  by  subscription, 
at  a  cost  of  £4000,  as  a  gift  to  Dr  Cleland,  author  of  the 
Annals  of  Glasgow,  and  bears  the  name  of  the  Cleland 
Testimonial.  There  is  a  marble  statue  of  Pitt,  by  Flax- 
man,  in  the  Corporation  Gallery,  and  one  by  Gibson  of 
Kirkman  Finlay,  who  did  so  much  to  develop  Glasgow 
trade,  in  the  Merchants'  Hall.  The  Martyrs'  Memorial 
Fountain  in  the  E  end  has  been  already  noticed,  as  well 
as  some  of  the  numerous  monuments  in  the  Necropolis 
and  other  cemeteries. 


GLASGOW 

Fuhlic  Buildings — Municipal  and  County  Brdldiiigs. 
— The  Council  Chambers  and  Municipal  Offices  were 
long  in  the  Tontine  Buildings  at  the  Cross,  and  were 
afterwards  transferred  to  the  South  Prison  Quadrangle 
at  the  foot  of  Saltmarket.  About  1840  it  was  found 
that  the  premises  at  the  jail  were  too  small,  and  the 
foundation  stone  of  the  southern  portion  of  the  new 
erection,  which  now  occupies  the  space  bomided  by 
Ingram  Street,  Hutcheson  Street,  Wilson  Street,  and 
Brunswick  Street,  was  laid  in  1842.*  The  sheriffs 
and  their  officers,  and  the  council  and  their  ofScers, 
all  removed  to  the  new  building,  whicn  was  iinished 
and  ready  for  occupation  in  1844.  li  cost  £56,000, 
of  which  £29,000  was  paid  by  the  city  and  £27,000 
by  the  Coimty  of  Lanark,  but  this  included  altera- 
tions also  at  the  South  Prison  Quadrangle.  The 
western  portion  of  the  building  was  set  apart  for  the 
council  chamber,  the  offices  of  the  town-clerk,  the  city 
chamberlain,  the  burgh  fiscal,  etc.,  while  the  eastern 
part  was  occupied  by  the  sheriffs,  the  sheriff-clerk,  the 
county  fiscal,  etc.  At  the  same  time  the  Merchants' 
House  having  a  number  of  years  before  sold  their  pro- 
perty in  Bridgegate,  erected  in  connection  with  the 
County  Buildings  a  new  and  handsome  hall  at  a  cost  of 
£10,300.  Of  this  they  were  subsequently  dispossessed 
in  1869,  when,  by  the  compulsory  powers  given  in  their 
Act  of  1868,  the  court-house  commissioners  acquired  the 
building,  and  between  that  time  and  1874  the  new 
buildings  were  erected  to  the  N  at  a  cost  of  £90,000, 
including  also  the  cost  of  the  extensive  alterations  on 
the  old  buildings.  The  three  portions  of  the  structure 
form  one  great  block.  The  northern  part  is  occupied  by 
the'Municipal  Buildings,  and  shows  on  the  N  front  a  fine 
porticoed  fagade  with  colossal  statuary  by  Mossman  over 
and  at  the  sides  of  the  entrance  door.  They  contain 
the  council  chamber  (in  which  is  a  fine  portrait  of  the 
Queen  by  the  late  Sir  Daniel  Macnee),  the  town-clerk's 
office,  the  city  chamberlain's  office,  and  other  apart- 
ments. The  middle  part  of  the  buildings  was  originally 
the  Merchants'  Hall,  and  has  now  been  converted  into 
the  county  offices.  The  main  ft-ont  is  to  Hutcheson 
Street,  and  has  a  noble  hexastyle  Corinthian  portico 
surmounted  by  a  massive  entablature  with  sculptured 
subjects  on  its  frieze.  The  county  court-houses  form 
the  southern  part  of  the  whole  block  with  the  main 
front  towards  Wilson  Street,  and  present  there  a  grand 
hexastyle  Ionic  portico  with  sculptured  basement  wall. 
At  each  side  of  the  portico  is  a  small  abutment  with  an 
entrance  to  the  interior.  There  are  spacious  and  com- 
modious apartments  for  the  courts  and  public  offices. 
The  municipality  are,  however,  not  yet  satisfied,  and 
have,  at  a  cost  of  £173,185,  acquired  a  site  for  new 
buildings  at  the  E  side  of  George  Square.  Competitive 
designs  for  the  new  buildings  were  exhibited  in  the 
spring  of  the  present  year  (18S2),  and  ere  long  Glasgow 
should  possess  a  new  structure  worthy  of  her  increasing 
greatness.  The  buildings  are  under  the  care  of  the 
Court-house  Commissioners,  consisting  of  representatives 
of  the  Town  Council  and  Commissioners  of  Supply. 
Their  income  for  the  year  ending  31  Aug.  was  £1270, 
15s.  2d.,  the  expenditure  £1540,  7s.  6d.,  the  assets 
£10,772,  17s.  5d.,  the  debts  £11,013,  4s.  lid.,  all  apart 
from  the  municipal  buildings. 

Courts  are  held  in  the  County  Buildings  by  the  sheriff 
or  one  of  his  six  substitutes,  for  criminal  and  summary 
business  on  Tuesday,  Wednesday,  Thursday,  and  Friday 
every  week,  and  also  appeal  courts  on  the  same  day. 

*  The  Tontine  Buildings,  in  which  was  the  Old  To^Tl-Hall,  ex- 
tending westward  from  the  site  of  the  Old  Tolbooth,  were  erected 
in  the  latter  part  of  last  century  for  the  threefold  purpose  of 
Town-Hall,  Exchange,  and  Hotel.  They  had  a  spacious  arcaded 
basement,  with  a  fine  range  of  Ionic  pilasters  and  an  interior 
piazza,  and  on  the  keystones  of  the  arches  were  the  grotesque 
sculptured  masks,  now  within  the  court  of  the  elegant  block  of 
warehouses  at  the  foot  of  Buchanan  Street.  The  Exchange  and 
the  piazza  were  long  the  resort  of  the  chief  merchants  in  the  city, 
but  under  tlie  operations  of  the  City  Improvement  Trust  subse- 
quent to  1870  they  were  stripped  of  their  civic  grandeur,  and 
deprived  of  their  piazza  and  ornaments,  and  converted  into  shopa 
and  warehouses.  The  Old  Town-Hall  was  55  feet  long,  34  wide, 
and  25  high. 


GLASGOW 

There  is  a  small  debt  court  on  Monday,  Wednesday, 
and  Thursday,  and  a  court  under  the  Debts  Recovery 
(Scotland)  Act  on  Monday.  Justice  of  peace  courts  are 
held  in  the  Justice's  Hall,  County  Buildings,  for  cases 
of  crime  and  cases  under  the  Revenue,  Roads,  Weights 
and  Measures,  etc. ,  Laws  every  Monday  and  Thursday, 
at  11  a.m.,  and  for  small  debt  cases  every  Tuesday  ".nd 
Friday. 

Police  Buildings. — The  first  police  office  was  in  the 
Laich  or  Tron  Church  session-house,  and  was  thence 
removed  to  the  NW  corner  of  Bell  Street  and  Candle- 
riggs,  where  it  was  one  stair  up  I  In  1825,  however, 
more  suitable  buildings  were  erected  at  the  angle  of 
Bell  Street  and  South  Albion  Street,  midway  between 
High  Street  and  Candleriggs,  at  a  cost  of  £15,000, 
and  an  addition  to  this  was  made  in  1851  at  a 
cost  of  £8000,  the  whole  now  constituting  the  Central 
Police  Office.  The  situation  was  originally  very  central 
for  the  police  business,  but,  till  sweepingly  altered  by 
the  operations  of  the  City  Improvement  Trust  subse- 
quent to  1875,  was  also  eminently  disagreeable  and  un- 
sanitary. Bell  Street  was  a  narrow,  squalid  thorough- 
fare, with  dingy  houses.  South  Albion  Street  was  a 
mere  lane  or  narrow  alley,  and  both  were  surrounded 
by  a  dense  and  repulsive  part  of  the  city.  Though 
erected  in  such  an  unfavourable  locality,  the  buildings 
themselves  are  very  substantial,  forming  a  high  quad- 
rangular block,  enclosing  a  court  of  50  feet  by  34,  and 
containing  a  hall  for  the  sittings  of  the  police  court,  a 
room  where  meetings  of  the  police  committee  of  the 
town  council  are  held,  accommodation  for  the  superin- 
tendent of  streets,  the  treasurer,  and  other  officials,  and 
ranges  of  cells  and  wardrooms  for  prisoners.  An  ad- 
joining building  consists  of  barracks  and  other  accom- 
modation for  the  unmarried  members  of  the  force.  A 
low  roofed  solid  structure  at  the  W  end  of  College  Street 
a  little  to  the  NNE  was  erected  in  1851,  and  accommo- 
dates the  Central  Fire  Brigade.  It  contains  a  number 
of  fine  fire-engines  and  other  necessary  apparatus  in 
connection  with  fire  brigade  work.  The  lighting  de- 
paitment  has  also  its  headquarters  close  by.  The  clean- 
ing department  has  its  headquarters  in  extensive  pre- 
mises in  Parliamentary  Road.  These  were  mostly 
erected  in  1873,  have  a  handsome  front,  and  contain 
ample  accommodation  for  water  carts,  sweeping  ma- 
chines, horses,  and  stores. 

Besides  the  Central  or  Head  Office,  there  are  offices 
known  as  the  "Western,  Eastern,  Southern,  Northern, 
St  EoUox,  and  Marine  JDi-s-ision,  in  respectively  Ander- 
ston  (Cranston  Street),  Calton  (Tobago  Street),  Gorbals 
(South  Portland  Street),  Cowcaddens  (Maitland  Street), 
St  EoUox  (Tennant  Street),  and  Broomielaw  (Robertson 
Street).  The  offices  in  South  Portland  Street  were 
formerly  used  by  the  separate  municipal  government  of 
the  Gorbals  district,  and  are  handsome  and  commodious 
buildings.  The  St  Rollos  Office  was  erected  in  1873, 
and  is  a  two-story  building,  with  an  auxiliary  fire 
station.  None  of  the  others  call  for  particular  notice. 
Besides  these  there  are  police  stations  at  the  South 
Prison,  Dalmamock  Road,  Camlachie,  Paisley  Road, 
South  Wellington  Street,  Camperdown  Street,  and 
Springburn.  Police  courts  are  held  every  lawful  day  at 
the  Central,  Anderston,  Calton,  Gorbals,  and  Cowcad- 
dens Offices  at  10  a.m.  ;  and  about  350  cases  are  dis- 
posed of  on  an  average  every  day,  about  one-third  being 
due  to  drunkenness.  The  bailie  of  the  river  and  Firth 
of  Clyde  holds  a  court  in  the  hall  in  Robertson  Street 
on  Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays  at  9.30  a.m. 
The  police  force  and  fire  brigade  are  separately  noticed. 
A  new  office  for  the  marine  division  is  to  be  erected  in 
M 'Alpine  Street. 

Prisom. — The  first  prison  of  Glasgow  is  said  to  have 
been  in  a  dungeon  attached  to  the  cathedral,  but  men- 
tion is  made  as  early  as  li54  of  a  tolbooth  at  the  NW 
corner  of  the  High  Street  and  Trongate,  on  the  site  of 
the  present  Cross  Steeple,  but  no  account  of  it  has  been 
preserved.  There  was  also  a  prison  known  as  'the 
heicht  tolbuyth'  in  the  end  of  the  16tli  and  the  begin- 
ning of  the  17th  century.     The  Cross  Tolbooth,  having 


GLASGOW 

become  decayed  and  ruinous,  was  pulled  down  in  1626, 
and  a  new  one  erected.  Franck's  account  of  this  latter 
building  has  been  already  noticed.  M'Ure  describes  it 
as  '  a  magnificent  structure,  being  of  length  from  E  to  W 
sixty-six  foot,  and  from  the  S  to  the  N,  twenty-four  foot 
eight  inches  ;  it  hath  a  stately  staircase  ascending  to  the 
justice  court  hall,  within  which  is  the  entry  of  a  large 
turnpike  or  staircase  ascending  to  the  town  council  hall, 
above  which  there  was  the  dean  of  gild's  hall.  .  .  . 
The  first  story  of  this  great  building  consists  of  six  rooms, 
two  whereof  are  for  the  magistrates'  use,  one  for  the 
dean  of  gild's  court,  and  another  for  the  collector  of  the 
town's  excise.  ...  In  this  great  building  are  five 
large  rooms  appointed  for  common  prisoners ;  the 
steeple  on  the  E  end  thereof  being  one  hundred  and 
thirteen  foot  high,  adorned  with  a  curious  clock,  all  of 
brass,  with  four  dial  plates  ;  it  has  a  large  bell  for  the 
use  of  the  clock,  and  a  curious  sett  of  chymes  and  time- 
able  bells  which  plays  every  two  hours,  and  has  four 
large  touretts  on  the  corners  thereof,  with  thanes  finely 
gilded,  and  the  whole  roof  is  covered  with  lead.  Upon 
the  frontispiece  of  this  building  is  his  majesty's  arms 
finely  cut  out  with  a  fine  dial,  and  below  the  same  is 
this  Latin  inscription  : — 

*  '*  Hfec  domus  odit,  amat,  punit,  conservat,  honorat, 
Nequitiam,  pacem,  crimina,  jura,  probos. "  * 

The  steeple  still  stands  as  the  Cross  Steeple.  It  is  126 
feet  high,  and  the  top  has  flying  buttresses  meeting 
and  forming  an  open  crown.  'The  old  chime  contained 
twenty-eight  bells,  commencing  at  F  sharp  and  ending 
at  C  natural ;  but  a  new  chime  of  sixteen  bells  was 
inaugurated  on  25  Dec.  1881.  They  vary  in  size  from 
21  to  40  inches,  with  notes  G,  A,  B  flat,  B,  C,  D,  E 
flat,  E,  F,  F  sharp,  G,  A,  B  flat,  B,  C,  D.  There  is  a 
chiming  apparatus,  and  they  are  played  every  day  from 
one  to  two,  and  from  six  to  seven  o'clock.  The  old 
steeple  bell  passed  to  Calton  parish  church,  and  has  now 
been  placed  in  the  Kelvingrove  Museum.  The  building 
erected  in  1626  remained  in  use  down  to  the  beginning 
of  the  present  century.  After  the  Reformation  the  house 
of  the  prebendary  of  Cambuslang  was  fitted  up  as  a 
house  of  correction,  but  became  unsuitable  about  1790  ; 
and  in  1792  a  building  in  High  Street  was  used  in- 
stead, but  was  discontinued  when  the  North  Prison  was 
erected. 

The  North  Prison  is  on  the  N  side  of  Duke  Street,  a 
short  distance  to  the  E  of  High  Street.  The  first 
erection  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  authorities  in 
1798,  and  was  greatly  enlarged  in  1823-24.  The  prison 
is  now  an  assemblage  of  plain,  strong  buildings  within 
an  enclosure  surrounded  by  lofty  walls.  Three  of  the 
blocks  of  building  were  erected  prior  to  1854.  It  con- 
tained, at  that  time,  26  rooms  or  cells  for  debtors,  386 
cells  for  male  criminals,  200  cells  for  female  prisoners,  a 
chapel,  baths,  store  rooms,  and  all  other  requisite 
prison  appliances.  It  underwent  considerable  enlarge- 
ment in  1870-72,  but  was  found  iu  August  1874  to  be 
still  insufficient  for  the  increasing  number  of  prisoners, 
and  between  that  date  and  1880  it  underwent  great 
alteration  and  enlargement. 

The  South  Prison  is  on  the  W  side  of  the  Saltmarket, 
near  the  river,  to  which  it  has  its  S  flank,  while  the 
main  front  is  towards  Glasgow  Green.  It  was  erected 
in  1814  at  a  cost  of  £34,800,  and  is  a  quadrangular  pile 
measuring  215  feet  along  the  front,  and  144  from  E 
to  W.  It  has  in  the  centre  of  its  main  front  a  lofty 
Doric  portico,  with  a  double  row  of  fluted  columns — 
six  in  front  and  four  behind — with  corresponding 
pilasters.  There  is  a  plain  frieze  and  a  tympanum  with 
the  city  arms.  The  imposing  appearance  of  the  portico 
is,  however,  much  marred  by  the  low  ground  on  which 
it  stands.  At  each  end  of  the  main  front  is  a  projecting 
wing,  with  a  double  pair  of  pilasters.  It  is  enclosed  by 
massive  iron  railings.  It  originally  provided  accom- 
modation  for  the  circuit  justiciary  court,  for  the  county 
court,  and  for  the  municipal  courts  and  offices  ;  but  in 
1840  it  was  found  too  small  for  so  many  bodies,  and 
was  altered  and  adapted  so  as  to  leave  it  almost  entirely 

131 


GLASGOW 

devoted  to  the  purposes  of  the  two  divisions  of  the 
circuit  court  of  justiciary,  which  sit  here  in  what  are 
known  as  the  Old  Court  and  the  New  Court.  It  had 
originally  122  cells  for  prisoners,  but  has  been  found 
to  fall  so  far  short  of  modern  ideas,  that  since  1862 
it  has  been  legalised  for  criminal  prisoners  only,  on 
the  condition  that  no  one  should  be  detained  in  it 
longer  than  forty-eight  hours  at  one  time.  The  prison 
accommodation  being  still  too  small,  a  large  new 
prison  has  been  erected  at  Barlinne  on  the  Cumbernauld 
Koad  to  the  E  of  the  city ;  but  as  it  is  without  the 
municipal  boundary,  it  falls  to  be  noticed  under 
Lanarkshire. 

Exchanges. — A  public  newsroom,  for  the  perusal  of 
newspapers  and  other  periodicals,  was  opened  in  Glas- 
gow about  1770,  but  conferred  its  benefits  upon  only  a 
few.  A  coffee-room  or  exchange  readiug-room  was 
founded  in  the  Tontine  buildings  at  the  Cross  in  1781, 
but  was  gradually  superseded  by  the  Eoyal  Exchange, 
and  became  extinct  about  1870.  The  Koyal  Exchange 
stands  in  an  open  area  called  Exchange  Square,  on  the  W 
side  of  Queen  Street  opposite  Ingram  Street.  The  site  was 
formerly  occupied  by  a  house  belonging  to  Cunningham 
of  Lainshaw,  which  was  bought  by  the  New  Exchange 
Company  and  converted  into  offices,  to  which  the  other 
buildings  were  added.  The  structure,  which  is  one  of 
the  finest  in  Glasgow,  was  erected  in  1829  at  a  cost  of 
£60,000.  The  style  is  Corinthian,  and  in  front  is  a 
magnificent  octostyle  portico,  with  a  double  row  of 
columns.  Behind  this  and  extending  half-way  down 
each  side  are  five  pilasters  with  a  rich  cornice,  and  from 
this  to  the  W  end  of  the  building  is  a  colonnade  with 
fluted  Corinthian  pillars.  There  is  a  cyclastyle  lantern 
clock-tower,  with  a  low-domed  roof.  The  principal 
apartment  is  a  great  newsroom,  130  feet  long,  60 
wide,  and  30  high,  with  an  arched  roof  panelled  and 
decorated,  and  supported  on  two  rows  of  Corinthian 
columns.  There  are  also  a  number  of  smaller  apart- 
ments, used  as  magazine-room,  newspaper  file  consulting- 
room,  merchants'  ofBce,  key -room,  secretary's  room,  sale- 
rooms, telegraph  office,  and  underwriters'  office.  The 
subscription  is  £2,  10s.  from  members  who  have  resi- 
dences or  offices  within  six  miles  of  it,  and  £1,  10s. 
from  others,  and  it  is  free  for  four  weeks  to  strangers 
introduced  by  a  subscriber,  and  always  to  officers  in 
garrison.  The  wide  paved  space  on  both  sides  commu- 
nicates with  Buchanan  Street  through  openings  spanned 
by  Doric  archways. 

The  Old  Stock  Exchange  stands  behind  the  National 
Bank,  on  the  W  side  of  Queen  Street  to  the  S  of  the 
Eoyal  Exchange.  It  is  a  plain  building,  erected  in 
1846.  The  New  Stock  Exchange  is  situated  between 
the  Western  Club  and  St  George's  Chm-ch,  at  the 
SE  comer  of  St  George's  Place  and  Buchanan  Street, 
and  was  erected  between  1875  and  1877  at  a  cost  of 
£45,000,  including  site.  It  has  at  the  SE  corner  a 
highly  ornamented  tower,  rising  to  a  height  of  112  feet. 
The  frontage  to  George  Street  is  85  feet  and  to  St 
George's  Place  74  feet,  the  height  embracing  three 
stories.  The  facade  is  supported  at  the  street  by  Gothic 
pillars,  and  above  the  arches,  carried  on  these,  runs  a 
broad  band  of  carved  lattice  work,  somewhat  after  the 
Moorish  fashion.  The  two  upper  flats  also  show  traces 
of  Gothic  feeling,  and  the  wall  is  surmounted  by  a  stone 
balustrade  with  carved  supports.  The  ground  floor  is 
occupied  by  shops ;  on  the  first  floor  is  the  great  hall, 
60  feet  long,  50  wide,  and  32  high.  The  Clearing 
House,  which  occupies  the  greater  part  of  the  top 
story,  measures  80  by  50  feet,  and  is  lighted  from  the 
top  by  a  large  glass  dome.  There  are  also  a  large  read- 
ing-room and  a  telegraph  office,  besides  a  number  of 
smaller  apartments.  The  Corn  Exchange  stands  at  the 
corner  of  Hope  Street  and  Waterloo  Street.  It  is  an 
Italian  building,  erected  in  1842,  and  contains  a  haU 
60  feet  long  and  57  wide.  The  Telephonic  Exchange  is 
at  the  corner  of  Douglas  Street  and  Sauchiehall  Street. 

Post  Office. — In  1736  the  Post  Office  was  in  Princes 
Street,   then  called  Gibson's  Wynd  or  Lane.     It  was 
removed  to  St  Andrews  Street  about  1800,  and  again 
132 


GLASGOW 

in  1803  to  back  premises  in  a  court  at  114  Trongate. 
In  1810  it  was  again  moved  to  convenient  premises  in 
South  Albion  Street,  which  were  rented  by  the  govern- 
ment from  the  then  postmaster.  It  was  thereafter  in 
small  premises  in  Nelson  Street,  which  were  found  in- 
convenient, and  in  1840  it  was  removed  first  to  Wilson 
Street  and  then  to  larger  but  very  plain  buildings  in 
Glassford  Street,  where  it  remained  till  1856,  when  it 
was  removed  to  Manhattan  Buildings,  at  the  corner  of 
South  Hanover  Street  and  George  Square.  The  build- 
ing it  then  occupied  was  a  very  plain  Italian  erection, 
very  poor  as  compared  with  the  amount  of  business  done 
or  the  great  importance  of  the  city.  It  was  in  1872  ex- 
tended by  a  very  plain  wing  to  the  E,  but  complaints 
nevertheless  still  continued  as  to  the  utter  inadequacy 
of  the  old  structure,  and  at  length  in  1876  the  build- 
ings and  ground  to  the  E  of  the  old  Post  Office  towards 
South  Frederick  Street  were  acquired  by  government, 
and  designs  prepared  for  the  present  buSdings,  and 
they  have  since  been  entirely  reconstructed.  They  now 
embrace  the  whole  space  between  South  Hanover  Street 
and  South  Frederick  Street,  down  each  of  which  they 
extend  for  half  the  distance  of  the  whole  street,  while 
the  main  front  is  to  George  Square.  The  style  of  the  new 
buildings  is  Italian,  very  plain  and  severe,  but  handsome 
and  dignified.  The  front  extends  to  a  length  of  190  feet 
and  the  length  along  the  side  streets  is  120  feet ;  the 
height  is  75  feet,  divided  into  four  stories.  All  along 
the  top  of  the  front  and  flanks  is  a  massive  cornice,  with 
panelled  balustrade  and  a  series  of  carved  vases.  In 
the  centre  is  a  pediment  crowned  with  the  royal  arms. 
In  the  centre  of  the  front  is  the  main  entrance  and 
letter  boxes,  in  a  lobby  entered  from  the  street  by  three 
arched  openings,  with  polished  granite  pillars  and  en- 
tablature. There  are  also  two  side  entrances,  with 
arches  and  pilasters.  At  the  sides  entering  from  the 
George  Square  lobby  are  the  various  departments — the 
postmaster's  office,  the  telegraph  of&ce,  the  postal  and 
telegraph  inquiry  office,  and  the  stamp,  registered  letter, 
private  box,  money  order  and  savings'  bank  oflices,  and 
the  post  restaiite.  Behind  and  entered  by  the  side  door 
from  South  Frederick  Street  is  the  letter  carriers'  and 
sorting  department.  The  basement  floor  contains  the 
engine-house  and  pneumatic  apparatus  together  with 
telegraph  batteries.  The  apartmentforming  the  telegraph 
machine  room  is  in  one  of  the  upper  flats.  Some  of  the 
departments  are  lit  by  the  electric  light.  The  whole  build- 
ing covers  over  half  an  acre,  and  has  cost  over  £60,000. 
The  foundation-stone  was  laid  by  the  Prince  of  Wales 
in  1876,  and  the  eastern  half  was  built  and  finished, 
but  the  second  or  western  half  was  finished  and  occu- 
pied only  in  1881.  There  are  branch  post  offices  with 
money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  departments 
at  Anderston,  Argyle  Street,  Bridgeton,  Charing  Cross, 
Eglinton  Street,  Fish  Market,  HiUhead,  Hope  Street, 
Kingston,  Partick,  St  Enoch's  Square,  the  Cross  and 
Whitevale,  and  with  telegraph  departments  only  at  the 
Royal  Exchange  and  Stock  Exchange.  There  are  also 
in  various  parts  of  the  city  25  receiving  houses  and 
73  pillar  and  wall  letter  boxes,  or  85  inclusive  of 
those  in  Partick  and  HiUhead.  A  century  ago  the 
staff  consisted  of  a  postmaster,  two  assistants,  and  two 
letter  carriers;  there  are  at  present  (1882)  a  postmaster,  27 
superintendents,  assistant-superintendents,  and  clerks, 
and  124  sorting  clerks,  while  the  distribution  of  the 
letters,  etc.,  through  the  city  and  suburbs  is  carried  out 
by  240  carriers,  and  17  auxiliary  letter  carriers,  acting 
under  an  inspector  and  5  assistant-inspectors.  The 
telegraph  department  is  conducted  by  a  superintendent, 
5  assistant-superintendents,  16  clerks,  280  telegraphists, 
21  adult  messengers,  38  house  messengers,  and  132 
docket  messengers.  The  first  regular  Edinburgh  mail 
coach  was  started  in  1758,  letters  before  that  being  con- 
veyed on  foot  or  on  horseback,  and  the  first  London 
mail  coach  about  1790  ;  there  are  now  30  despatches 
and  over  50  arrivals  every  day  to  and  from  various 
parts  of  the  kingdom,  while  mails  are  made  up  for  and 
arrive  from  all  parts  of  the  world  at  intervals  varying 
from  a  week   to  a  month.     In   1838  the  number  of 


I 


GLASGOW 

letters  and  packets  that  passed  through  it  was  22,834, 
and  the  money  orders  granted  numbered  1469,  of  the 
value  of  over  £1922,  while  the  number  of  letters,  news- 
papers, post  cards,  and  book  packets  that  pass  through 
it  now  average  about  a  million  and  a  half  every  week, 
while  the  number  of  money  orders  averages  now  about 
80,000,  of  the  value  of  nearly  £180,000  per  annum. 
The  number  of  telegraph  messages  that  pass  through 
average  about  two  and  a  half  mOlions  per  annum. 

Revenue  Offices. — The  Inland  Revenue  Office  is  near 
the  S  end  of  Queen  Street,  on  the  W  side.  It  is  a  plain 
but  rather  handsome  building,  erected  by  the  Clydes- 
dale Bank  in  1854,  and  sold  to  Government  in  1858. 
It  has  since  become  insufficient  for  the  amount  of  busi- 
ness done,  especially  with  regard  to  the  collection  of 
taxes,  and  will  shortly  be  replaced  by  new  buildings, 
on  a  site  purchased  in  1881  at  the  corner  of  George 
Street  and  Hanover  Street,  the  plans  of  which  have  just 
(1882)  been  prepared,  and  which  is  expected  to  be  ready 
for  occupation  in  1884.  The  new  buildings  are  to  be 
Italian  in  style,  and  will  form  a  handsome  addition  to 
the  district  in  which  they  are  to  be  erected.  They  will 
have  a  frontage  of  90  feet  to  each  street.  The  height 
wiU  be  60  feet,  and  at  the  corner  is  a  tower  terminating 
in  a  Mansard  roof.  The  telling-room,  to  be  used  for 
the  collection  of  taxes  and  excise  duties,  will  be  86  feet 
long,  40  feet  wide,  and  22  feet  6  inches  high.  There  is 
also  a  large  room  for  the  sale  of  stamps,  and  rooms  for 
the  collector,  surveyors  of  taxes,  supervisors,  and  other 
officers  of  the  excise  branch.  They  are  to  cost  about 
£20,000. 

The  Custom  House. — The  first  custom  house  was 
erected  about  the  beginning  of  the  17th  century,  for  in 
1601  the  council  'ordainit  ane  lytill  custome  hous  to  be 
biggit  upoun  the  Brigend. '  The  present  building  is  in 
Great  Clyde  Street,  on  the  terrace  between  Glasgow 
Bridge  and  the  Suspension  Bridge.  It  dates  from  1840, 
but  has  neither  the  size  nor  the  appearance  worthy  of 
the  importance  of  Glasgow  and  of  the  large  revenue 
here  collected. 

Market  Places. — The  flesh  and  fish  markets,  which 
dated  from  the  middle  of  the  18th  century,  were  in 
King  Street,  and  were  long  regarded  as  both  spacious  and 
handsome,  but  they  were  gradually  forsaken,  for  as  the 
wealthier  classes  moved  westward  the  butchers  and  fish- 
mongers followed  them  and  occupied  ordinary  shops,  and, 
the  old  markets  being  deserted,  were  used  for  different 
purposes,  and  were  not  replaced  by  other  buildings  de- 
stined for  the  same  purposes.  The  wholesale  fishmarket, 
originated  in  connection  with  clearances  made  by  the 
City  Improvement  Trust,  and,  occupying  the  space  be- 
tween Guildry  Court  off  Bridgegate  and  the  property 
known  as  Park  Place,  at  the  corner  formed  by  Bridge- 
gate,  Stockwell  Street,  and  East  Clyde  Street,  is  most 
conveniently  situated  with  reference  to  the  river  traffic 
and  to  the  line  of  the  Union  railway.  It  was  con- 
structed between  1872  and  1875,  and  covers  an  area  of 
about  160  by  90  feet.  The  walls,  rising  to  a  height  of 
two  stories,  are  surmounted  by  an  iron  roof,  which  at 
the  ridge  rises  to  a  height  of  90  feet.  There  are  good 
frontages  containing  shops  both  to  the  N  and  to  the 
S.  In  the  interior  are  thirty  stalls  on  the  ground 
floor,  and  there  is  a  gallery  all  round  for  the  storage  of 
boxes.  The  City  Bazaar  adjoins  the  S  side  of  the  City 
Hall,  and  has  entrances  from  Candleriggs,  Canon  Street, 
and  Stirling  Square.  It  occupies  the  site  of  the  old 
Glasgow  Bowling  Green,  and  covers  an  area  of  2377 
square  yards.  The  buildings  are  low,  and  are  partly 
open  to  the  sky.  All  through  the  week,  but  more  par- 
ticularly on  Saturday  evenings,  it  is  the  scene  of  a  very 
great  amount  of  traffic,  for  it  serves  for  the  sale  of 
butcher  meat,  poultry,  ham,  butter,  eggs,  vegetables, 
fruit,  flowers,  shoes,  second-hand  books,  toys,  and  almost 
all  ordinary  commodities.  The  old  clothes  market  occu- 
pies a  space  shaped  like  the  letter  L,  between  Greendyke 
Street  and  Lanark  Street,  near  the  W  end  of  the  Green. 
The  principal  front  is  that  to  Greendyke  Street,  which 
is  plain  Italian  in  style.  One  limb  of  the  L  is  78  feet 
long  and  70  wide,  while  the  other  is  172  feet  long  by 


GLASGOW 

63J  wide.  The  building  is  divided  into  stalls  and  fitted 
mth  galleries,  is  lighted  mainly  i'rom  the  roof,  and  has 
ample  lavatory  and  other  conveniences  promotive  of  the 
greatest  possible  cleanliness.  It  was  erected  in  1875, 
and  superseded  an  unsightly  structure  at  the  foot  of  the 
Saltmarket.  The  dog  and  bird  market  is  at  the  N"  side 
of  the  South  Prison.  It  contains  accommodation  for 
dealers  in  dogs,  fancy  birds,  poultry,  pigeons,  rabbits, 
etc. 

The  Cattle  Market. — In  1740  the  cattle  market  was 
outside  the  West  Port,  a  little  to  the  westward  of  the 
Trongate  end  of  Stockwell  Street,  and  at  that  time  beef 
was  2d.  a  pound  ;  but  in  1818  it  was  transferred  to  the 
ground,  nearly  f  mile  E  of  the  Cross,  intended  for 
the  formation  of  Graham's  Square  off  the  Gallowgate, 
where  at  that  time  9281  square  yards  were  enclosed  by 
a  stone  wall,  and  cattle  sheds,  sheep  pens,  and  other 
conveniences  provided.  It  now  occupies  an  area  of 
over  36,000  square  yards,  has  excellent  arrangements 
of  stalls  and  other  appliances,  and  serves  for  the  sale 
of  about  500,000  head  of  live  stock  in  the  year.  Great 
alteration  took  place  between  1878  and  1882,  when  the 
dead  meat  market,  the  horse  bazaar,  bank  premises, 
and  the  new  gateway  were  all  completed  at  a  cost  of 
£44,000.  In  addition  to  the  area  mentioned  above,  the 
dead  meat  market  covers  3689  square  yards.  The  total 
home  carcases  exposed  in  it  yearly  for  sale  number  about 
90,000,  besides  about  27,000  American.  The  principal 
abattoir  is  in  Moore  Street  at  the  W  side,  which  imme- 
diately adjoins  railway  communication.  Under  the 
authority  of  an  act  obtained  in  1865,  it  was  greatly 
enlarged  and  improved  in  1868-70,  and  is  now  one  of  the 
most  extensive  and  efficient  abattoirs  in  Great  Britain, 
and  there  are  others  at  Milton  Street  and  Victoria  Street 
on  the  S  side.  The  first  covers  a  space  of  12,482  square 
yards,  exclusive  of  the  adjoining  house  property  also  be- 
longing to  the  Markets'  Trust ;  the  second,  a  space  of 
2968  square  yards  ;  and  the  third,  a  space  of  4260 
square  yards,  exclusive  of  adjoining  house  property. 
The  Milton  Street  and  Victoria  Street  establishments 
were  opened  in  1868,  and  have  since  been  added  to. 
The  total  number  of  animals  slaughtered  at  Moore  Street 
is  about  190,000  per  annum,  at  Milton  Street  about 
55,000,  and  at  Victoria  Street  about  42,000.  The 
market  places  and  abattoirs  are  managed  by  the  town 
council  in  the  capacity  of  market  commissioners,  under 
consolidated  powers  granted  by  the  '  Glasgow  Markets 
and  Slaughter-houses  Acts,  1865,  1871,  and  1877.'  For 
the  year  ending  31  May  1882  the  ordinary  revenue 
was  £19,366,  15s.  8d.,  the  ordinary  expenditure £12, 887, 
12s.  lOd.,  the  extraordinary  revenue  £543,  16s.  6d., 
the  extraordinary  expenditure  £5034,  7s.  8d.,  the 
assets  £226,350,  3s.  lid.,  and  the  debts  £159,177, 
Os.  3d.  The  borrowing  powers  of  the  Commissioners 
are  £180,000,  of  which  £20,822,  19s.  9d.  remain  stm 
imexhausted.  By  the  Act  of  Parliament  16s.  6d.  per 
cent,  has  to  be  set  aside  every  year  as  a  sinking  fund 
for  the  extinction  of  the  whole  debt  in  fifty  years,  but 
the  surpluses  already  applied  to  this  purpose  since  1878 
amount  to  £29,976,  Os.  3d.,  or  at  the  rate  of  £3|  per 
cent,  per  annum. 

Public  Halls. — The  Old  Assembly  Rooms  were  on  the 
N  side  of  Ingram  Street,  between  Hanover  Street  and 
Frederick  Street.  They  have  now  been  long  diverted 
from  their  original  purpose,  and  give  accommodation  to 
a  public  library  and  newsi'oom  called  the  Athensum. 
The  building  was  founded  in  1796,  and  cost  £4800,  the 
cost  being  defi'ayed  by  £20  shares  on  the  Tontine 
principle.  It  was  probably  considered  a  very  handsome 
tjuUding  at  the  time,  but  nowadays  looks  poor  and 
dingy.  There  is  a  heavy  Ionic  centre,  with  lighter 
wings.  The  City  Hall  stands  on  the  E  side  of  Candle- 
riggs, close  to  the  Bazaar.  It  is  externally  of  a  poor 
and  mean  description,  showing  little  but  a  large  door 
and  a  very  homely,  not  to  say  unsightly,  porch  over 
the  pavement.  The  large  hall,  which  is  used  for  great 
public  meetings  of  almost  every  description  and  for 
Saturday  evening  concerts  for  the  working-classes,  rests 
on  a  series  of  massive  stone  pillars  and  strong  arches  on 

133 


GLASGOW 

the  N  side  of  the  Bazaar,  and  contains  accommodation 
for  about  3000  persons.  It  has  a  platform,  galleries,  an 
orchestra,  and  a  very  powerful  organ.  There  are  also  a 
small  hall,  committee  rooms,  and  a  well-constructed 
kitchen.  Proposals  for  the  improvement  of  this  hall 
and  the  Bazaar,  as  well  as  for  the  widening  of  the  ad- 
joining streets,  are  at  present  being  considered.  The 
St  Andrew's  Halls  in  the  W  end  present  frontages  to 
Berkeley  Street,  Granville  Street,  and  Kent  Roail,  and 
belong  to  a  limited  liability  company,  with  a  capital  of 
£80,000.  The  buildings,  which  are  very  handsome, 
were  erected  between  1874  and  1877,  at  a  cost  of  about 
£62,500.  There  are  two  floors  and  an  entresol.  The 
chief  entrance  is  by  a  triple  door  from  Granville  Street. 
On  the  ground  floor  is  a  vestibule  29  by  28  feet,  an 
inner  octagonal  hall  36  feet  in  diameter,  two  side  halls 
each  75  by  40  feet  and  30  feet  high.  On  the  E  side  is  the 
main  or  grand  hall.  On  the  N  side  of  the  same  floor  is 
a  series  of  retiring  rooms  for  ladies,  and  on  an  entresol 
above  these  a  series  of  rooms  for  ordinary  meetings.  On 
the  upper  floor  are  two  halls,  each  70  by  54  feet,  and  a 
complete  suite  of  arrival  and  retiring  rooms.  On  the 
basement  floor  are  artistes'  rooms,  servants'  waiting- 
rooms,  kitchen,  keeper's  residence,  and  store-rooms. 
The  main  hall  contains  a  large  organ,  an  orchesti-al 
platform  for  100  performers,  a  chorus  gallery  for  500 
singers,  and  accommodation  for  an  audience  of  3000 
persons.  The  Queen's  Rooms  stand  in  La  Belle  Place, 
adjacent  to  the  Claremont  entrance  of  Kelvingrove 
Park,  and  off  the  N  side  of  the  W  part  of  Sauchiehall 
Street.  They  were  erected  in  1850,  and  have  a  massive 
appearance.  The  style  is  modified  classic.  On  the  N 
and  E  fronts  are  a  number  of  admirable  sculptures  by 
Mossman.  On  the  E  front  on  the  frieze  is  a  series  of 
tableaux  emblematic  of  the  rise,  progress,  and  culmina- 
tion of  civilisation,  and  over  the  windows  are  fine 
medallions  of  James  Watt,  David  Hamilton,  Sir  Joshua 
Reynolds,  Flaxman,  Handel,  Sir  Robert  Peel,  and 
Burns,  representing  respectively  Science,  Architecture, 
Painting,  Sculpture,  Music,  Politics,  and  Poetry.  On 
the  frieze  of  the  N  front  Minerva  is  represented  receiv- 
ing the  homage  of  figures  representing  the  arts  and 
sciences.  In  the  interior  are  a  large  hall  and  several 
small  ones  all  tastefully  decorated.  These  are  used  for 
assemblies,  concerts,  and  miscellaneous  entertainments. 
"What  is  now  called  the  Assembly  Rooms  is  a  very  plain 
building  in  Bath  Street. 

The  Corporation  Galleries  are  on  the  N  side  of  Sauchie- 
hall Street,  between  Rose  Street  and  Dalhousie  Street. 
They  were  erected  in  1854  by  Mr  Archibald  Maclellan 
for  the  reception  of  a  rich  collection  of  paintings  which 
he  proposed  to  bequeath  to  the  public  as  the  commence- 
ment of  a  Glasgow  GaUery  of  Art.  Mr  Maclellan  died 
before  the  buildings  were  finished,  and  they  were  pur- 
chased by  the  corporation  along  with  the  pictures  in 
1856.  The  buildings,  which  are  plain  Italian  in  style, 
are  very  extensive,  and  contain  halls  for  concerts  and  as- 
semblies, galleries  for  pictures  and  sculpture  belonging  to 
the  city,  and  accommodation  for  the  Government  School 
of  Art  and  Haldane  Academy.  The  paintings  and  sculp- 
ture are  contained  in  six  rooms,  and  among  the  examples 
are  many  of  the  greatest  interest  and  importance.  There 
are  also  in  floor  cases  many  objects  of  art,  including 
a  number  of  very  fine  examples  of  Japanese  work  of 
different  kinds,  a  number  of  the  specimens  having 
been  presented  by  the  Japanese  government.  The 
pictures  number  nearly  500,  and  consist  mainly  of 
pictures  belonging  to  three  collections — the  original 
Maclellan  one  having  been  supplemented  first  by  Mr 
William  Ewing,  who  presented  36  pictures,  and  subse- 
quently in  1877  by  Mrs  Graham-Gilbert  of  Yorkhill, 
who  bequeathed  to  the  city  the  valuable  collection  of 
pictures  formed  by  her  husband,  John  Graham-Gilbert, 
K.S.A., — but  there  have  been  numerous  other  donations 
and  bequests  to  a  smaller  extent.  Mr  J.  C.  Robinson, 
F.  S.  A. ,  Her  Majesty's  Surveyor  of  Pictures,  who  reported 
on  the  collection  to  the  town  council  in  the  spring  of 
the  present  year  (1882),  characterises  the  collection  of 
authentic  pictm'es  by  the  old  masters  as  '  the  most  in- 
134 


GLASGOW 

teresting  and  valuable  provincial  public  collection  of 
such  works  in  the  kingdom,'  and  further  says,  that  the 
Corporation  Gallery  will,  when  better  known,  'take 
rank  as  a  collection  of  European  importance,'  and  that 
the  pictures  of  the  Venetian  school  '  would  be  held  to 
be  notable  ornaments  of  any,  even  the  most  celebrated 
galleries. '  Among  the  more  important  pictures  may  be 
mentioned  the  Woman  taken  in  adultery,  by  Giorgione, 
the  Virgin  and  Child  enthroned,  attributed  but  doubt- 
fully to  the  same  artist ;  the  Virgin  and  Child  with 
Saints,  and  Danae,  by  Titian ;  the  Holy  FamOy,  two 
different  pictures,  by  Palma  Vecchio  ;  the  Holy  Family, 
by  Bordone  ;  a  very  fine  painting  of  the  Adoration  of 
the  Magi,  by  Antonello  da  Messiaa  ;  the  Annunciation, 
by  Botticelli ;  an  Allegory  of  Abundance,  by  Rubens  ; 
a  view,  Katwyck,  by  Ruysdael ;  Tobit  and  the  Angel, 
and  the  Painter's  Study,  by  Rembrandt ;  a  Landscape  in 
Storm,  by  Hobbema ;  as  well  as  other  genuine  works 
by  Rembrandt,  Ruysdael,  Berghem,  Teniers,  Ouyp, 
Wouvermans,  Wynants,  Adrian  Van  der  Velde,  Back- 
huysen.  Van  Huysum,  Netscher,  Vandyck,  Willem 
Van  der  Velde,  Jan  Steen,  Eglon  Van  der  Neer,  Hob- 
bema, and  Andrew  Both.  Among  the  more  modern 
pictures  may  be  mentioned  several  portraits  by  Sir 
Joshua  Reynolds ;  the  Relief  of  Lucknow,  by  T.  Jones 
Barker,  with  portrait  figures  of  all  the  leading  men  en- 
gaged ;  the  Death  of  John  Brown  of  PriesthiU,  by 
Thomas  Duncan  ;  many  pictures  by  Graham-Gilbert ; 
a  Coming  Storm,  by  John  Linnell,  sen., — a  fine 
picture,  where  the  rush  of  the  wind  through  the 
trees  can  almost  be  heard ;  the  First  Feeling  of  Sor- 
row, by  Sant ;  and  pictures  by  Westall,  WUkie,  and 
others.  The  sculpture  embraces  27  pieces,  besides  casts 
of  some  famous  pieces  of  statuary  in  the  lobbies  and 
staircases.  The  chief  examples  are  the  statue  of  Pitt, 
by  Flaxman ;  busts  by  Chantrey,  AV.  Brodie,  Moss- 
man,  Ewing,  and  Nollekens  ;  the  Nubian  Slave,  by  A. 
Rossetti ;  and  the  Oriental  Slave,  by  Tadolini.  The 
galleries  are  open  to  the  public  on  Monday,  Friday,  and 
Saturday,  free  of  charge,  and  on  Tuesday,  AVednesday, 
and  Thursday,  which  are  students'  days,  at  a  charge  of  6d. 

The  galleries  for  the  exhibitions  of  the  Glasgow  In-  J 
stitute  of  the  Fine  Arts  are  on  the  S  side  of  Sauchiehall  . 
Street,  and  contain  rooms  for  the  exhibition  of  pictures. 
The  design  is  Greek,  plain  but  dignified,  and  the  walls 
have  panels  with  sculptures.  In  the  centre,  over  the 
entrance,  the  facade  has  six  fluted  Ionic  columns,  with 
a  pediment  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  Minerva.  The 
building  was  erected  in  1880.  The  institute  has  now 
(1882)  419  members,  and  assets  valued  at  £17,310, 
16s.  lid. 

The  Trades'  Hall  and  Merchants'  House.  — The  Trades' 
Hall  stands  on  the  AV  side  of  Glassford  Street  confront- 
ing Garthland  Street.  It  was  begun  in  1791,  at  which 
time  the  site  cost  only  20s.  per  square  yard,  and  finished 
in  1794,  the  total  cost  being  £8000.  It  has  a  pleasant 
facade  with  Doric  columns,  sculptures,  and  A''enetian 
windows,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  fine  dome,  containing  a 
bell  cast  by  Mears  of  London  in  1796.  It  contains  a  ves- 
tibule, a  main  hall,  and  a  number  of  smaller  apartments.  .■ 
The  large  hall  is  70  by  35  feet  and  23  feet  high,  with  sit-  ^ 
ting  accommodation  for  about  600  people ;  round  the 
sides  are  the  armorial  bearings  of  the  trades,  and  there 
are  also  several  statues  and  civic  portraits.  The  erec-  • 
tion  of  a  new  building  is  at  present  under  consideration.  ^ 
The  trade  incorporations  of  Glasgow  date  from  a  very 
early  period,  and  on  several  occasions  have  taken  notable 
action  in  civic  affairs,  particularly  in  connection  with 
the  preservation  of  the  cathedral,  which  is  alluded  to 
hereafter.  The  incorporatious  take  their  rise  from  the 
regulations  made  by  the  magistrates  for  the  conduct  of 
ti'ades  within  the  burgh,  and  for  the  provision  of  funds 
'  for  the  support  of  the  decayed  brethren  of  the  crafts 
and  their  widows  and  children. '  Before  the  Reforma- 
tion the  Roman  Catholic  Archbishop  of  Glasgow,  as  the 
superior  of  the  burgh  and  regality,  had  enacted  or  had 
confirmed  regulations  made  by  the  magistrates  and 
town  council,  associating  several  classes  of  the  crafts- 
men of  Glasgow  with  the  right  to  elect  deacons,  coUee- 


GLASGOW 

tors,  and  masters  ;  and  after  the  Reformation  charters 
were  granted  by  the  Crown,  and  seals  of  cause  {i.e., 
regulations)  by  the  magistrates  and  councillors  of  Glas- 
gow incorporating  other  classes  of  craftsmen.  The 
present  incorporations  are  hammermen,  tailors,  cordi- 
ners,  maltmen,  weavers,  bakers,  skinners,  wiights, 
coopers,  fleshers,  masons,  gardeners,  barbers,  dyers. 
All  these  were  represented  in  the  beginning  of  the  17th 
century,  except  the  gardeners ;  and  at  that  time  there 
was  also  an  incorporation  of  bonnet-makers.  The  masons 
claim  to  be  the  oldest,  relying  on  a  royal  charter  from 
Malcolm  III.,  dated  1057,  and  said  to  have  been  dis- 
covered among  the  archives  of  the  Glasgow  Masonic 
Lodge  of  St  John's  in  the  beginning  of  the  present 
century ;  but  the  authenticity  of  the  document  is  more 
than  doubtful.  This  incorporation  originally  included 
the  coopers  and  the  wrights,  but  the  coopers  became  a 
separate  body  in  1567,  and  the  wrights  (whose  numbers 
include  wrights,  glazing-vn'ights,  boat- wrights,  painters, 
bowyers,  and  sawyers)  in  1600.  The  cordiners  (includ- 
ing tanners)  were  incorporated  before  1460,  the  skinners 
and  furriers  in  1518,  the  weavers  in  1528,  the  hammer- 
men (including  goldsmiths,  silversmiths,  blacksmiths, 
tinsmiths,  and  saddlers)  in  1536,  the  bakers  pre^aous  to 
1556,  the  fleshers  in  1580,  the  dyers  and  bonnet-makers 
in  1597,  and  the  barbers  in  1656.  The  original  charter 
of  the  gardeners  is  lost,  as  their  deacon  died  of  plague 
in  1649,  and  his  papers  were  destroyed,  but  their  pre- 
sent seal  of  cause  bears  date  1790.  The  total  funds  of 
the  Trades'  House,  including  those  of  the  incorporations, 
amount  to  about  £250,000,  most  of  the  revenue  from 
which  is  expended  in  charitable  allowances  to  decayed 
members  and  their  families.  The  first  Merchants' 
House  was  a  handsome  two-story  erection  in  Bridgegate, 
built  between  1661  and  1669.  It  had  a  steeple  164  feet 
high,  which  still  remains,  and  is  now  known  as  the 
Bridgegate  Steeple.  The  building  was  sold  in  1817  for 
£7500,  and  was  removed  in  1818.  The  second  hall  was 
in  Hutcheson  Street,  and  has  been  already  noticed  under 
the  County  Buildings.  From  1869  till  1877  temporary 
buildings  in  Virginia  Street  were  used  till  the  present 
Merchants'  Hall,  which  was  erected  between  1874  and 
1877  at  the  NW  corner  of  George  Square,  was  ready  for 
occupation.  It  is  in  a  mixed  Italian  style,  and  re- 
sembles the  Bank  of  Scotland  which  it  adjoins,  but  is 
somewhat  more  elaborate.  The  building  has  three 
stories,  besides  basement  and  attics,  the  principal  ex- 
ternal feature  being  a  large  tower  at  the  corner  of  George 
Square  and  George  Street,  which  rises  to  a  height  of  122 
feet,  and  terminates  in  a  dome  surmounted  by  the 
insignia  of  the  house — a  globe  surmounted  by  a  ship. 
There  is  also  a  smaller  tower  at  the  western  end  of  the 
block.  The  frontage  to  George  Square  is  96  feet,  as 
also  is  that  to  George  Street.  Inside  are  a  main  hall,  a 
dining  hall  29  by  25  feet,  a  board  room  21  feet  square, 
and  numerous  business  and  private  rooms  besides.  The 
main  hall,  which  is  adapted  for  assembly  purposes, 
measures  61  by  33  feet  6  inches,  and  the  height,  which 
extends  from  the  second  floor  to  the  roof,  is  52  feet  to 
the  ridge.  The  roof  is  of  open  pitch  pine,  with  corbels 
showing  emblematic  figures.  It  is  lighted  by  oriel 
windows  and  an  octagonal  lantern.  The  orchestra 
occupies  a  recess  about  12  feet  from  the  floor.  The 
basement  contains  strong  rooms,  and  in  the  centre  of 
the  block  is  a  well-hole  for  light  and  ventilation.  The 
site  cost  £31,998,  and  the  building  itself  has  cost  over 
£35,000.  There  were  merchant  burgesses  in  Glasgow 
at  a  very  early  date,  and  the  ofiice  of  dean  of  guUd,  like 
that  of  deacon  convener  of  the  trades,  dates  from  1605. 
The  Merchants'  House  is  entirely  an  open  corporation, 
any  gentleman  paying  £10  of  entry-money  being  admis- 
sible to  the  membership  and  privileges.  For  1881  the 
revenue  was  £7552,  and  the  expenditure  £5426,  while 
the  stock  amounted  to  £220,403.  The  Merchants'  and 
Trades'  Houses,  in  their  corporate  capacity,  take  a  promi- 
nent part  in  almost  every  measure  affecting  the  city, 
and  jointly  they  return  the  members  of  the  dean  of 
guild  court. 
In  the  present  Merchants'  House  building  are  also  the 


GLASGOW 

offices  of  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  which  was  in- 
corporated by  royal  charter  in  1793,  and  at  present 
numbers  over  900  members,  representing  the  principal 
merchants,  manufacturers,  and  shippers  in  the  city  and 
neighbourhood.  It  is  recognised  as  the  medium  of 
communication  ivith  the  government  and  legislature  on 
all  commercial  questions. 

Professional  Balls. — The  Procurators'  Hall  stands 
behind  St  George's  Church,  with  fronts  to  St  George's 
Place  and  West  Nile  Street.  It  is  an  elegant  edifice  in 
the  Italian  style,  erected  in  1866.  The  ornamentation 
is  very  florid  but  picturesque.  On  the  keystones  of  the 
doors  and  windows  are  carved  heads,  by  Handyside 
Kitchie,  of  the  distinguished  lawyers  and  law  lords, 
Rutherford,  Cockburn,  Jeffrey,  Moncrieft',  Millar, 
Reddie,  Duncan  Forbes,  Karnes,  Stair,  Erskine,  Blair, 
Brougham,  and  Mansfield.  This  is  the  place  where 
public  sales  of  heritable  property  take  place.  The 
business  hall  is  on  the  lower  floor,  and  measures  59 
by  30  feet,  and  is  17  feet  high.  The  library  is  on  the 
upper  floor,  and  has  the  same  length  and  breadth  as 
the  business  hall.  It  is  divided  into  three  portions  by 
two  rows  of  square  Corinthian  pillars  which  run  length- 
wise. The  Faculty  of  Procurators  was  incorporated 
by  charter  in  1796,  and  the  number  of  members  is  now 
(1882)  230.  The  Physicians'  and  Surgeons'  old  hall 
stood  on  the  E  side  of  St  Enoch's  Square,  and  was  a 
two-story  structure,  with  rusticated  basement,  pillars, 
and  balustrade.  The  new  hall  is  in  St  Vincent  Street, 
and  is  a  large  Italian  buQding.  The  Faculty  of  Physi- 
cians and  Surgeons  of  Glasgow  was  incorporated  by 
royal  charter  gi-anted  by  James  VI.  in  1599.  It  was 
recognised  by  the  Medical  Practitioners'  Act  of  1858, 
and  has  now  (1882)  97  resident  fellows  and  84  resident 
licentiates.  'The  Accountants'  Hall  is  in  a  plain  Italian 
building  in  West  NQe  Street. 

Libraries. — Stirling's  and  Glasgow  Public  Library  is 
a  plain  but  substantial  building  erected  in  1864  in 
Miller  Street.  The  Glasgow  Public  Library  was  long 
in  George  Street,  and  afterwards  in  Bath  Street,  but 
was  amalgamated  with  Stirling's  Library  in  1871.  The 
latter  collection  of  books  was  founded  in  1791  by  the 
late  Walter  Stirling,  merchant  in  Glasgow,  and  has 
since  received  many  very  valuable  additions  from  various 
donors,  the  last  addition  of  great  importance  being  the 
valuable  library  of  books  and  manuscripts  belonging  to 
the  late  Dr  Scoular.  It  is  estimated  that  the  library 
contains  about  50,000  volumes,  including  a  full  set  of 
the  publications  of  the  Patent  Ofiice,  for  the  consul- 
tation of  which,  as  also  of  other  hooks,  free  of  charge, 
accommodation  is  provided  in  the  library  hall.  The 
life  subscription  to  the  lending  department  is  £5,  5s.  ; 
the  annual  subscription,  10s.  6d.  The  library  is  open 
from  10  A.M.  till  10  P.M.  The  managing  directors  are 
chosen  from  the  Town  Council,  from  the  Presbytery  of 
Glasgow,  from  the  Faculty  of  Physicians  and  Surgeons, 
from  the  Merchants'  House,  and  from  the  subscribers. 
The  Athenfeum,  instituted  in  1847,  occupies  the  Old 
Assembly  Rooms  in  Ingram  Street.  Its  aim  is  '  to  fur- 
nish the  fullest  and  most  recent  information  on  aU 
subjects  of  general  interest,  whether  commercial, 
literary,  or  scientific  ;  to  provide  an  agreeable  place  of 
resort  in  the  intervals  of  tjusiness  ;  to  excite,  especially 
among  young  men,  a  taste  for  intellectual  and  elevating 
pursuits  ;  and  to  secure  the  means  of  gratifying  that 
taste  by  aff'ording  the  utmost  facilities  for  systematic 
study  in  the  various  branches  of  knowledge.'  It  in- 
cludes a  library  containing  about  11,000  volumes,  a 
reading-room  amply  supplied  with  telegraphic  intelli- 
gence and  with  the  leading  newspapers  and  magazines, 
and  amusement  rooms  for  billiards,  chess,  and  other 
games.  The  subscription  for  life  members  is  £15,  15s., 
and  for  annual  members  £1.  The  winter  classes  are 
attended  by  over  700  students.  The  last  annual  report 
shows  for  1881-82  membership  of  1152,  an  income  of 
£880,  12s.,  liabilities  amounting  to  £226,  8s.  4d.,  and 
assets  worth  £1114,  2s.  The  Mitchell  Library,  which 
at  present  occupies  premises  in  East  Ingram  Street, 
was  founded  in  terms  of  a  bequest  by  the  late  Mr 

135 


GLASGOW 

Stephen  Mitchell,  who  died  in  1S74,  and  left  the  sum 
of  £67,000  for  the  institution  of  a  large  library,  to  be 
accessible  to  the  public  free  of  charge.  The  trustees 
have  wisely  expended  their  funds  hitherto  in  the  forma- 
tion of  the  library  and  not  on  elaborate  buildings.  The 
library  was  opened  in  the  end  of  1877,  by  which  time 
the  available  funds  were  £70,000.  It  is  open  daily 
from  9.30  a.m.  till  10  p.m.,  and  contains  about  41,000 
volumes.  The  books  may  not  be  taken  away,  but  are 
to  be  read  in  the  library,  which  has  been  furnished  with 
chairs  and  tables  for  the  purpose.  To  the  magazine- 
room  are  supplied  more  than  180  of  the  principal 
weekly,  monthly,  and  quarterly  periodicals,  including 
a  number  from  America,  Germany,  and  France.  The 
admission  is  free,  and  no  introduction  or  guarantee  is 
required.  The  scene  presented  by  the  library  is  some- 
what strilving ;  sitting  reading  side  by  side  may  be  seen 
well-dressed  gentlemen,  plainly-attired  workiug  men, 
and  squalid  ragged-looking  urchins  from  the  East  End, 
all  on  the  same  level  and  with  equal  rights  and  privileges 
in  the  stores  of  knowledge.  The  only  request  that  is 
made  is  for  clean  hands — not  a  high  price  for  the  value 
of  the  commodity  supplied.  The  library  is  managed  by 
a  committee  of  the  Town  Council.  The  number  of 
readers  is  often  largely  in  excess  of  the  accommodation 
provided.  In  1879  the  average  number  of  volumes 
consulted  daily  was  1237;  in  1880,  1269;  in  1881, 
1315;  for  1882,  up  to  21  Oct.,  1336,  exclusive  of 
periodicals  in  the  magazine-room.  The  expenditure  for 
the  year  ending  31  May  1882  was  £2852,  Is.  2d.,  and 
the  amount  of  stock  held  £65,386,  7s.  The  Mitchell  be- 
quest has  practically  supplied  a  free  public  library,  and 
great  additional  aid  in  the  same  direction  will  be 
given  when  the  Baillie  Fund  becomes  available  in  1884. 
This  consists  of  a  sum  of  £18,000,  given  in  1863  by  Mr 
George  Baillie,  but  not  to  become  available  for  twenty- 
one  years  after  the  date  of  the  deed  of  gift.  This  fund 
was  to  be  applied — iirst,  to  '  aid  the  self-culture  of  the 
operative  classes  from  youth  to  manhood  and  old  age, 
by  furnishing  them  with  warm,  well  lighted,  and  evei'y 
way  comfortable  accommodation  at  all  seasons  for  read- 
ing useful  and  interesting  books  in  apartments  of  proper 
size  attached  to  one  or  more  free  libraries  provided  for 
them  ; '  and  second,  '  for  the  instruction  of  children  of 
the  same  class  in  unsectarian  schools  gratuitously  or  on 
payment  of  very  small  fees. '  The  libraries  are  to  be  open 
on  Sundays.  The  Dean,  Council,  and  Clerk  of  the  Faculty 
of  Procurators  in  Glasgow  are  perpetual  preceptor,  patrons, 
and  directors  of  the  institution,  which  was  incorporated 
by  royal  charter  in  1867.  The  Glasgow  Central  Work- 
ing Men's  Club  and  Institute  in  Trongate  has  for  its 
object  the  promotion  of  the  social,  moral,  and  intel- 
lectual welfare  and  recreation  of  the  industrial  classes, 
and  attempts  to  carry  this  out  by  the  provision,  first, 
of  a  large  reading-room  well  supplied  with  the  leading 
Scotch,  English,  and  Irish  newspapers,  and  with  maga- 
zines and  other  periodicals ;  second,  of  recreation- 
rooms  where  billiards,  chess,  draughts,  etc.,  may  be 
played.  The  club  is  open  from  9  a.m.  till  10.30  p.m., 
and  the  annual  subscription  is  5s.  ;  monthly,  6d.  ; 
visitors,  Id.  The  Bridgeton  Working  Men's  Club  and 
Eeading-Room,  with  similar  objects,  is  open  from  9 
A.M.  till  10  P.M.  The  library  contains  about  2000 
volumes,  the  reading-room  is  well  supplied  with  news- 
papers and  periodicals,  and  there  are  halls  for  the  usual 
games.  The  annual  subscription  is  5s.  ;  half-yearly, 
2s.  6d.  ;  monthly,  6d.,  or  including  library,  8d.  ; 
visitors.  Id,  The  Calton,  Mile-End,  and  Bridgeton 
Mechanics'  Institution,  in  Canning  Street,  has  for  its 
object  instruction  in  the  sciences,  particularly  in  their 
practical  application.  Connected  with  it  are  classes  for 
music,  French,  German,  botany,  elocution,  arithmetic, 
mathematics,  phonography,  grammar,  and  composi- 
tion. The  library  contains  3000  volumes,  and  the  read- 
ing-room is  supplied  ^rith  the  leading  newspapers  and 
magazines.  It  is  open  daily  from  8  A.M.  till  10  p.m. 
The  annual  subscription  to  the  reading-room  is  5s.  ; 
quarterly.  Is.  6d.  ;  to  the  library,  annually,  4s.  ;  quar- 
terly, Is.  The  large  and  valuable  library  at  the  Uni- 
1S6 


GLASGOW 

versity  is  noticed  under  that  head.  There  are  also 
libraries  in  connection  with  the  Philosophical  Society, 
the  Institute  of  Engineers,  and  the  Euskin  Society. 

Museums. — The  Hunterian  Museum  at  the  Univer- 
sity and  the  museum  at  the  Andersonian  University  are 
noticed  under  those  headings,  and  there  falls  to  be 
noticed  here  only  the  public  Industrial  Museum  in  the 
West  End  Park.  This,  the  Kelvingrove  Museum, 
stands  close  to  the  Kelvin  at  the  SW  corner  of  the  park, 
and  is  formed  of  two  parts.  That  to  the  N  is  the  old 
mansion-house  of  Kelvingrove,  which  was  altered  and 
adapted  for  this  purpose  as  well  as  possible  in  1871.  It 
has  since  been  enlarged  by  the  erection  of  a  new  wing 
running  E  and  W  at  its  S  end.  The  old  part  contains 
four  galleries,  each  measuring  40  feet  by  184,  and  con- 
tains specimens  in  natural  history,  manufacturing  pro- 
ducts, and  miscellaneous  curiosities.  The  new  part,  which 
was  erected  between  1874  and  1876  at  a  cost  of  about 
£10,000,  is  a  plain  massive  building  in  the  Doric  style. 
The  principal  entrance  is  to  the  E,  and  the  pediment 
is  surmounted  by  a  huge  but  ill-designed  and  ill-propor- 
tioned figure  of  Minerva.  The  enti-ance  hall  is  fitted 
up  with  columns  and  panels  on  which  are  bronze  orna- 
ments. The  S  and  N  walls  have  entablatures  sur- 
mounted by  balustrades,  with  pedestals  at  intervals, 
and  are  pierced  by  seven  windows.  The  W  wall  is 
rustic  ashlar,  with  an  entablature.  The  large  hall  ii. 
this  new  wing  is  100  feet  long  and  40  wide,  with 
galleries  all  round  14  feet  above  the  floor.  The  galleries 
at  the  sides  are  114  f^et  ■wide  and  at  the  ends  15  feet  wide. 
The  room  is  lit  partly  from  the  roof,  partly  by  the  side 
windows.  It  contains  specimens  of  all  the  industries 
carried  on  in  Glasgow,  the  examples  illustrating  the 
processes  in  all  the  stages  from  the  crude  to  the  finished 
production.  At  the  W  end  is  a  room,  40  feet  long  by 
20  wide,  fitted  up  as  an  aquarium,  with  16  tanks  con- 
taining specimens  of  the  various  fresh  water  fishes 
found  in  Scottish  lakes  and  streams.  Outside,  at  the 
SW  corner  of  the  building,  is  an  old  walking-beam 
engine  constructed  by  James  AVatt.  There  is  a  small 
museum  of  rock  specimens  and  fossils  in  connection  with 
the  Glasgow  Geological  Society. 

Barracks. — Up  to  nearly  the  end  of  last  century  the 
troops  stationed  in  Glasgow  were  billeted  on  the  inhabi- 
tants, but  in  1795  the  old  infantry  barracks,  on  the  N  side 
of  the  Gallowgate,  to  the  E  of  the  Cross,  were  erected. 
They  cost  £15,000,  comprised  a  spacious  parade  gi'ound, 
and  provided  accommodation  for  1000  men.  In  1821 
cavalry  barracks  were  erected  on  the  W  side  of  the  upper 
part  of  Eglinton  Street  in  Gorbals.  These  were  disused  in 
consequence  of  no  cavalry  being  quartered  in  the  city,  and 
in  1850  they  were  sold  to  the  Parochial  Board  of  Govan, 
and  were  converted  into  a  poorhouse.  Shortly  after  this 
the  infantry  barracks  were  pronounced  unsuitable  as 
regarded  situation,  arrangement,  and  desirable  or  re- 
quisite appliances  for  convenience,  comfort,  and  health, 
and  it  was  decided  to  remove  them.  In  1869  the 
government  fixed  on  a  site  of  30  acres  at  Garrioch,  near 
Maryhill,  about  2i  miles  from  the  centre  of  the  city, 
and  accepted  estimates  of  £100,000  for  the  erection  of 
new  barracks.  A  dispute  with  the  contractor  stopped 
all  work  from  1871  to  1873,  when  the  War  Office  pur- 
chased an  additional  27  acres  to  the  SW  of  the  former 
site,  and  took  the  extension  and  completion  of  the 
works  into  their  own  hands,  the  operations  being  carried 
out  under  the  superintendence  of  the  Royal  Engineers. 
The  buildings  were  finished  in  1876,  and  accommodation 
is  now  provided  for  a  regiment  of  infantry,  a  squadron 
of  cavalry,  and  a  battery  of  field  artillery.  The  infantry 
barracks  are  to  the  SE,  and  consist  of  three  blocks  two 
stories  in  height  for  the  married  men,  and  four  three- 
story  blocks  for  single  soldiei-s,  accommodation  being 
provided  for  824  men — about  90  married  and  734  un- 
married— and  38  officers  in  the  officers'  quarters.  The 
infantry  parade  is  in  front  to  the  N.  The  cavalry  and 
artillery  barracks  are  to  the  W  of  the  infantry  parade 
ground,  and  consist  of  seven  blocks — two  for  married 
men  and  five  for  the  single  men  and  for  stables.  There 
is  accommodation  for  altogether  302  men— 32  married— 


GLASGOW 

and  12  officers  ;  cavalry,  148  men  and  6  officers  ;  royal 
artillery,  154  men  and  6  officers.  The  stables  liave  room 
for  104  horses  and  10  officers'  horses  belonging  to  the 
cavalry,  and  for  96  horses  and  9  officers'  horses  belong- 
ing to  the  artillery,  while  a  separate  building  accommo- 
dates 14  sick  horses,  and  provides  cover  for  8  field  guns. 
The  cavalry  and  artillery  parade  ground  lies  to  the  N 
of  their  barracks.  There  are  buildings  for  officers' 
quarters  and  guardrooms,  for  staff-sergeants'  and  married 
sergeants'  quarters,  and  for  quarter-masters'  stores,  bar- 
rack stores,  and  washing-houses,  as  well  as  an  extensive 
canteen,  amusement -rooms,  library,  reading -I'ooms, 
chapel,  schoolrooms,  gymnasium,  etc.  To  the  W  of  the 
infantry  barracks  is  an  hospital,  with  accommodation 
for  60  patients,  and  the  prison  has  cells  for  21  offenders. 
The  ground  to  the  SW  towards  the  Kelvin,  and  embrac- 
ing a  third  of  the  whole  site,  is  used  for  exercise  ground. 
Theatres. — The  first  theatre  in  Glasgow  was  a  tem- 
porary booth,  fitted  up  in  1752,  in  the  ruins  of  the  Arch- 
bishop's palace  or  castle,  but  was  superseded  in  1762  by 
a  regular  theatre  erected  in  the  district  then  known  as 
Grahamstown.  It  stood  on  ground  now  occupied  by  the 
Central  railway  station,  and  was  opened  in  1764  by  a 
company,  which  included  Mrs  Bellamy.  It  seemed 
doomed  to  misfortune,  for  on  the  opening  night  it  was 
much  damaged  by  fire,  and  after  a  career  of  varied  but 
generally  indifferent  success  it  was  burned  to  the  ground 
in  1782,  when  the  whole  wardrobe  and  properties,  valued 
at  £1000,  were  destroyed.  The  next  theatre,  built  in 
1785,  was  in  Dunlop  Street,  and  was  opened  by  a  com- 
pany that  included  Mrs  Siddons,  Mrs  Jordan,  and  other 
distinguished  performers.  In  the  beginning  of  the 
present  century  it  was  found  too  small,  and  a  new  one 
was  erected,  partly  by  subscription,  on  the  W  side  of 
Queen  Street,  at  a  cost  of  £18,500.  It  was  one  of  the 
largest  and  most  elegant  theatres  then  in  Great  Britain, 
but  it  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1829.  The  Dunlop 
Street  theatre,  which  had  been  rebuilt  in  1839-40,  was 
now  a  building  of  showy  but  tasteless  exterior,  with 
statues  of  Shakespeare,  Garrick,  and  Mr  Alexander.  In 
1849,  during  a  panic  caused  by  a  false  alarm  of  fire,  a 
rush  for  the  doors  caused  the  death  of  65  people,  and 
injury  to  a  great  many  more.  It  was  destroyed  by  fire 
in  1863,  but  underwent  such  repair  as  rendered  it  still 
the  principal  theatre  in  the  city ;  but  it  had  to  be  finally 
relinquished  in  1868,  in  consequence  of  the  operations 
of  the  Union  Railway  Company.  The  Theatre  Royal 
in  Cowcaddens  then  took  its  place  as  the  leading  theatre. 
It  had  been  erected  in  1867  as  a  great  music  hall,  called 
the  Colosseum.  It  was  opened  in  1869  as  the  Theatre 
Royal,  and  was  in  1879  entirelv  destroyed  by  fire,  the 
loss  amounting  to  between  £35,000  and  £40,000.  The 
present  Theatre  Royal  was  then  erected  on  its  site,  and 
was  opened  in  the  end  of  1880  with  a  company,  includ- 
ing Miss  Marie  Litton,  Mr  Hermann  Vezin,  and  Mr 
Lionell  Brough.  There  is  no  architectural  display  out- 
side, and  no  room  for  it,  but  inside  the  structure  is 
worthy  of  the  city.  The  stage  is  74  feet  wide  and  56  feet 
deep,  while  the  proscenium  is  31  feet  wide  and  36  feet 
high.  The  auditorium,  which  contains  accommodation 
for  about  3200  persons,  consists  of  three  tiers  of  gal- 
leries and  the  pit.  Behind  the  orchestra  are  rows  of 
stalls,  the  door  to  which  enters  from  Hope  Street.  The 
balcony,  which  contains  seven  rows  of  seats,  is  also 
entered  from  Hope  Street,  and  so  is  the  upper  circle. 
The  pit  and  amphitheatre  are  entered  from  Cowcaddens. 
The  outer  vestibule  is  paved  with  tesselated  marble  of 
various  colours  and  graceful  designs,  and  the  interior  is 
handsomely  and  beautifully  fitted  up  and  decorated. 
There  are  a  number  of  private  boxes,  and  the  usual  re- 
freshment and  other  rooms.  The  opening  was  celebrated 
with  great  eclat,  but  the  fortunes  of  the  house  have  not 
as  yet  been  very  prosperous.  When  rebuilt  it  was 
valued  at  £25,000,  but  it  has,  in  Oct.  1882,  just  been 
sold  for  £12,000  to  the  new  Glasgow  Theatre  and  Opera 
House  Company,  Limited.  The  Gaiety  Theatre  stands 
at  the  SW  corner  of  the  intersection  of  West  Nile  Street 
and  Sauchiehall  Street.  It  was  opened  in  1874  as  a 
music  hall,  and  was  the  result  of  alterations  on  a  block 
^6 


GLASGOW 

of  buildings,  which  included  the  Choral  Hall,  and 
which  was  purchased  at  a  cost  of  £12,500.  It  resembles 
internally  the  Gaiety  Theatre  in  London,  and  has  ac- 
commodation for  an  audience  of  about  1800.  It  has 
since  become  a  theatre,  and  is  now  principally  the  bright 
and  successful  home  of  comic  opera  andT  burlesque.  A 
little  to  the  W,  on  the  opposite  side  of  Sauchiehall 
Street,  is  the  Royalty  Theatre  in  a  block  of  buildings 
with  a  good  Italian  front  to  Sauchiehall  Street ;  and  the 
Grand  Theatre  is  in  Cowcaddens,  at  the  point  where 
New  City  Road  and  Garscube  Road  branch  off.  The 
latter  is  the  home  of  sensation  and  melodrama.  The 
Royal  Princess's  Theatre  is  on  the  S  side  in  Main  Street, 
Gorbals.  It  is  chiefly  devoted  to  melo  and  sensation 
drama.  The  same  building  contains  the  Theatre  and 
a  public  hall  called  the  Grand  National  Hall.  The  front 
is  in  the  Roman  Doric  style,  with  six  fluted  columns. 
On  the  top  are  six  statues,  two  representing  Shakespeare 
and  Burns,  and  the  others  allegorical.  In  West  Nile 
Street,  opposite  the  end  of  West  Regent  Street,  is 
Hengler's  Cirque.  There  are  also  a  number  of  music 
halls  in  the  city,  but  they  do  not  call  for  particular 
notice. 

Banlcs. — Two  years  after  the  Bank  of  Scotland  was 
established  in  1695,  the  governors  attempted  to  establish 
a  branch  in  Glasgow,  but  the  efi'ort  was  unsuccessful,  as 
all  the  accommodation  required  by  the  merchants  was 
in  the  hands  of  private  bankers  or  money-changers,  who 
negotiated  bills  of  exchange  and  provided  loans,  and  the 
branch  was  withdra^vn  in  1698.  In  1731  another  effort 
was  made,  and  after  a  time  with  better  success,  for 
the  company  obtained  a  foothold.  The  first  bank- 
ing company  belonging  to  Glasgow  itself  was  the  Ship 
Banking  Company,  now  merged  in  the  Union  Bank, 
which  was  established  in  1749,  and  as  trade  was 
rapidly  increasing,  it  seems  to  have  thriven  so  well, 
that  in  1753  another  company  started  a  bank  called 
the  Glasgow  Arms  Bank.  It  was  followed  in  1758  by 
a  third,  called  the  Thistle  Bank,  and  in  1809  the  Glas- 
gow Banking  Company  was  formed.  All  these  were, 
it  must  be  remembered,  private  banks,  and  it  was  not 
till  1830  that  the  joint  stock  companies  began  to  be 
formed.  In  that  year  the  Glasgow  Union  Bank,  now 
the  Union  Bank  of  Scotland,  was  founded,  and  was  fol- 
lowed by  the  Western  Bank  in  1832,  the  Clydesdale 
Bank  in  1838,  and  the  City  of  Glasgow  Bank  in  1839. 
The  failures  of  the  Western  Bank  and  the  City  of  Glas- 
gow Bank  have  been  already  referred  to.  The  banking 
offices  of  the  city  in  the  present  year  (1882)  are  the  head 
office  of  the  Clydesdale  Banking  Company,  and  15 
branch  oflices  ;  the  head  office  of  the  Union  Bank  of 
Scotland,  and  9  branches  ;  a  principal  office  of  the  Bank 
of  Scotland,  and  11  branches  ;  a  principal  office  of  the 
British  Linen  Company  Bank,  and  13  branches  ;  a  prin- 
cipal office  of  the  Commercial  Bank  of  Scotland,  and  6 
branches ;  a  principal  office  of  the  National  Bank  of 
Scotland,  and  9  branches ;  the  office  of  the  North 
British  Bank  ;  a  principal  office  of  the  Royal  Bank  of 
Scotland,  and  16  branches;  and  5  offices  of  the  National 
Security  Savings'  Bank  of  Glasgow, — in  all,  92  banking 
establishments.  There  are,  besides,  the  savings'  banks  in 
connection  with  the  post  office,  and  no  less  than  121 
branches  of  the  penny  savings'  bank,  12  public  schools 
banks,  and  22  foundry  boys'  religious  society  banks,  or 
taking  the  whole  number  not  only  in,  but  also  around 
Glasgow,  there  are  no  less  than  214  of  these  penny 
savings'  banks. 

The  old  head  office  of  the  Clydesdale  Bank  was  the 
building  in  Queen  Street  now  occupied  as  the  Inland 
Revenue  Office.  When  this  was  sold  to  the  government 
in  1858,  the  bank  moved  to  buildiugs  in  Miller  Street, 
which  had  been  erected  for  and  occupied  by  the  Western 
Bank,  which  failed  in  1857.  The  structure  here  was 
Italian,  with  a  fine  facade  with  an  elaborately  carved 
frieze.  This,  too,  proved  insufficient  for  increasing 
business,  and  new  buildings  were  erected  in  St  Vincent 
Place  between  1872  and  1874  at  a  cost  of  £35,000,  the 
business  being  transferred  thither  in  the  latter  year. 
These  stand  on  the  N  side  of  the  street,  and  have  a 

137 


GLASGOW 

.'frontage  of  134  feet;  while  they  extend  backwards  from 
the  street  for  109  feet.  The  style  is  Paladian,  and  the 
building  is  three  stories  high,  the  basement  being  rusti- 
cated, the  second  story  Ionic,  and  the  third  Corinthian. 
The  entrance  portico  is  two  stories  high,  supported  on 
each  side  by  syenite  columns  with  sandstone  Ionic 
capitals,  and  on  the  pediment  are  the  arms  of  the  city 
of  Glasgow,  with  at  each  side  groups  of  sculjjture  repre- 
senting industry  and  commerce.  The  telling-room  is 
61  by  56  feet  and  40  feet  high.  There  are  also  all  the 
other  appurtenances  of  a  great  banking  establishment, 
including,  of  course,  an  ample  safe,  the  walls  of  which 
are  of  granite,  6  feet  thick.  The  head  office  of  the 
Union  Bank  is  on  the  S  side  of  Ingram  Street  at  the  N 
end  of  Virginia  Street,  and  occupies  the  site  of  a  famous 
mansion  belonging  to  one  of  the  tobacco  lords.  The 
original  building  was  erected  in  1842  by  the  partners  of 
the  Glasgow  Bank,  now  incorporated  with  the  Union. 
It  has  since  been  extensively  remodelled.  The  style  is 
Eoman  Doric,  with  base  and  pUlars  of  polished  red 
granite,  the  rest  of  sandstone.  The.  portico  is  hexa- 
style,  and  is  surmounted  by  six  statues,  representing 
Britannia,  Wealth,  Justice,  Peace,  Industry,  and  Glas- 
gow, from  the  chisel  of  John  Mossman.  The  Bank  of 
Scotland's  principal  office  was  formerly  on  the  N  side 
of  Ingram  Street  opposite  Glassford  Street.  It  had  a 
good  front,  and  over  the  entrance  was  a  shield  bearing 
the  city  arms  and  supported  by  two  figures.  The  pre- 
sent building  is  at  the  corner  of  George  Square  and  St 
Vincent  Place,  with  chief  entrance  from  the  latter.  It 
was  erected  in  1867  and  extended  in  1874,  and  is  a 
massive  and  handsome  building.  The  chief  entrance  is 
from,  and  the  principal  front  to,  St  Vincent  Place,  and 
has  an  entablature,  supported  on  each  side  by  a  massive 
figure  of  Atlas,  sculptured  by  "William  Mossman.  The 
British  Linen  Company's  principal  office  is  at  the  N 
corner  of  Queen  Street  and  Ingram  Street,  opposite  the 
Royal  Exchange.  It  is  of  considerable  height,  and  is  a 
specimen  of  modem  Italian  architecture  of  a  very  or- 
nate kind.  At  the  top  is  a  fine  bold  balustrade.  One 
of  the  branches  at  the  corner  of  Eglinton  Street  and 
Oxford  Street  is  also  a  good  building,  Italian  in  style. 
The  principal  office  of  the  Commercial  Bank  is  in  Gor- 
don Street,  between  Buchanan  Street  and  West  Nile 
Street.  It  was  erected  in  1857,  after  the  model  of  the 
Farnese  Palace  at  Rome,  and  rises  to  a  height  of  three 
stories,  surmounted  by  a  balustrade.  The  whole  of  the 
front  is  profusely  adorned  with  rich  carvings,  after 
designs  by  Handyside  Ritchie  of  Edinburgh.  The  prin- 
cipal office  of  the  National  Bank  of  Scotland  is  on  the 
AV  side  of  Queen  Street.  It  is  not  very  well  seen,  but 
the  front  looks  somewhat  too  rich  for  the  size  of  it. 
The  style  is  modern  Italian,  and  is  very  highly  orna- 
mented. The  building  rises  to  a  height  of  two  stories, 
the  lower  being  adorned  with  a  range  of  Ionic  columns, 
and  the  upper  with  a  similar  row  in  the  Corinthian  style, 
surmounted  by  a  rich  entablature  and  cornice.  Above 
the  cornice  is  a  group  of  sculpture,  consisting  of  the 
royal  arms,  flanked  by  a  statue  on  either  side — one  repre- 
senting Peace,  the  other  Commerce.  Over  the  doorway 
are  the  city  arms.  The  telling-room  is  large  and  hand- 
some. The  Royal  Bank's  principal  office  stands  at  the 
W  end  of  Exchange  Place,  behind  the  Royal  Exchange, 
by  which  its  handsome  front  is  unfortunately  entirely 
concealed.  It  is  a  tasteful  and  chaste  structure  in  the 
Ionic  style,  with  a  fine  hexastyle  portico  supporting  a 
massive  entablature.  The  interior  was  greatly  altered 
in  1874  at  a  cost  of  £14,000.  The  telling-room  is  now 
50  by  40  feet,  and  40  feet  high.  This  is  separated  from 
side  spaces,  which  are  only  20  feet  high,  by 'screens  be- 
tween a  series  of  Composite  columns,  the  arches  of  which 
are  filled  in  with  fan-work,  surmounted  by  a  cornice  and 
frieze.  The  office  of  the  North  British  Bank  is  in  Bath 
Street,  but  calls  for  no  particular  notice.  The  principal 
office  of  the  National  Security  Savings'  Bank,  which 
was  established  under  Act  of  Parliament  in  1836,  was 
originally  in  John  Street,  and  afterwards  in  Hutcheson 
Street.  It  was  then  transferred  to  a  building,  erected  for 
it  in  1853  at  a  cost  of  £3440j  which  stood  at  the  N  corner 
138 


GLASGOW 

of  Virginia*  Strtet  and  Wihon  Street.  It  Tvas  agaiff 
removed  in  1865  to  buildings  erected  in  Glassford  Street 
at  a  cost  of  £14,000.  The  present  erection  is  a  plain 
but  substantial  three-storj'  block,  and  is  occupied  in 
front  by  warehouses,  the  bank  being  behind,  with  a 
wide  entrance  from  Glassford  Street.  The  Savings' 
Bank  was  instituted  'to  provide  for  the  safe  custody 
and  increase  of  small  savings  belonging  to  the  indus- 
trious classes.'  Sums  of  from  Is.  to  £30  are  received  in 
one  year  from  individuals,  and  larger  sums  from  societies. 
The  interest  allowed  is  at  the  rate  of  £2,  15s.  per  cent.  per. 
annum.  The  number  of  depositors  has  increased  from 
13,792  in  1842  to  119,846  in  1882,  and  in  the  same 
time  the  funds  have  increased  from  £176,130,  Os.  5d. 
to  £3,508,049,  19s.  6d.  In  connection  with  this  insti- 
tution district  penny  savings'  banks  were  first  established 
between  twenty  and  thirty  years  ago,  under  the  late  Mr 
William  Meikle,  the  actuary  and  cashier,  and  have  had 
a  career  of  marked  success.  These  banks  were  esta- 
blished subsequent  to  1851,  but  by  1861  there  were  in 
connection  with  the  Glasgow  parent  establishment  53 
banks,  with  deposits  to  the  amount  of  £6220,  and  in 
1881  there  were  over  200  banks,  with  60,284  depositors 
and  deposits  to  the  amount  of  £42,903,  and  it  is  calcu- 
lated that  10,000  of  the  depositors  sometimes  visit  the.se 
places  in  the  course  of  one  evening.  The  Savings'  Bank 
provides,  for  the  penny  branches,  cash-books,  ledgers, 
and  ordinary  cards,  either  gratis  or  at  a  reduced  rate, 
and  no  doubt  reaps  a  rich  reward  for  its  encouragement, 
in  the  increased  number  of  depositors  drawn  from  the 
young  people  thus  trained  to  save.  Many  places  have 
copied  the  Glasgow  scheme,  and  it  might  with  very 
great  advantage  be  adopted  in  many  more. 

Insurance  Offices. — There  are  about  500  insurance 
offices  and  agencies  in  Glasgow  altogether,  the  com- 
panies with  the  greatest  number  being  the  Caledonian 
Fire  and  Life  Insurance  Company,  which  has  a  principal 
office  and  73  agencies ;  the  Queen  Insurance  Company 
of  Liverpool  and  London,  which  has  a  principal  office 
and  56  agencies  ;  the  Standard  Life  Assurance  Company, 
which  has  a  principal  office  and  54  agencies ;  the  Em- 
ployers Liability  Assurance  Corporation  (Limited),  which 
has  a  principal  office  and  30  agencies  ;  and  the  General 
Life  and  Fire  Assurance  Company,  which  has  a  princi- 
pal office  and  18  agencies.  The  others  have  smaller 
numbers.  The  City  of  Glasgow  Life  Assurance  Com- 
pany's office  was  formerly  in  St  Vincent  Place,  but  is 
now  on  the  site  once  occupied  by  St  Mary's  Episcopal 
Church  in  Renfield  Street.  The  latter  building  was 
erected  in  1870-71,  and  is  in  the  Italian  style,  with  a 
series  of  columns  serving  as  piers  to  the  arches  of  the 
■windows  in  the  centre  of  its  front.  The  facade  has 
carved  decorations,  and  at  its  sides  are  two  large  niches 
with  colossal  statues  of  St  Mungo  and  St  Andrew,  the 
former  by  Ewing,  the  latter  by  W.  Brodie.  The  princi- 
pal office  of  the  Scottish  Widows'  Fund  and  Assurance 
Society  is  at  the  NE  corner  at  the  intersection  of  Ren- 
field Street  and  West  George  Street.  It  is  a  massive 
building  in  the  Italian  style,  with  a  rusticated  basement, 
and  has  over  the  windows  a  series  of  sculptured  masks 
with  a  succession  of  massive  entablatures.  Along  the 
top  is  an  open  balustrade,  surmounted  at  intervals  by 
vases.  Up  to  1878  the  building  also  afforded  accommo- 
dation for  the  New  Club,  but  this  now  occupies  premises 
of  its  own.  The  Scottish  Amicable  Life  Assurance  Society 
office,  on  the  S  side  of  St  Vincent  Place,  was  erected  in 
1872-73,  and  is  ornate  Italian  in  style.  There  are  three 
fine  statues  of  Justice,  Truth,  and  Amity,  from  the  chisel 
of  William  Mossman.  None  of  the  other  buildings  calls 
for  particular  comment. 

Clubs. — The  Western  Club  has  a  clubhouse  at  the 
NW  corner  of  the  intersection  of  Buchanan  Street  and 
St  Vincent  Street.  The  club  was  formed  in  1824.  The 
building,  which  is  extensive  and  massive,  is  of  a  plain 
Italian  style.  The  principal  entrance  is  from  Buchanan 
Street,  under  a  broad  and  graceful  tetrastyle  portico, 
with  square  Corinthian  columns,  and  the  windows  have 
decorations  similar  to  those  of  the  portico,  whOe  the 
building  .terminates  all  round  in  an  imposing  entabla- 


GLASGOW 


GLAaGOW 


ture.  There  is  a  fine  vestibule  and  staircase,  and  a 
large  and  magnificently  furnished  dining-room  ;  and 
indeed  the  whole  of  the  interior  is  splendidly  fitted  up 
and  decorated.  The  Western  Club  includes,  among  its 
members,  most  of  the  noblemen  and  gentlemen  of  the 
AVest  of  Scotland.  There  was  a  Union  Club  established 
in  1837,  but  it  was  unsuccessful,  and  was  discontinued 
in  1855.  The  New  Club  was  organised  about  1865,  and 
till  1878  occupied  the  greater  portion  of  the  Scottish 
"Widows'  Fund  buildings  already  described.  In  1877 
the  club  acquired  ground  at  what  is  now  144  West 
George  Street,  and  erected  a  clubhouse  for  themselves 
at  a  total  cost  of  about  £30,000.  The  building  is 
modern  French  in  style,  and  presents  to  West  George 
Street  a  front  of  five  stories,  besides  attics,  and  of  such 
breadth  as  to  admit  of  eight  windows  in  each  story. 
There  are  elegant  dining,  reading,  billiard,  and  card 
rooms,  as  well  as  fifteen  bedrooms,  and  all  the  latest 
appliances  for  comfort  and  luxury.  The  Conservative 
Club  has  accommodation  in  Renfield  Street  in  the  build- 
ing already  mentioned  as  containing  the  principal  office 
of  the  Scottish  Widows'  Fund  Insurance  Society.  There 
are  nine  other  clubs  of  a  similar  nature,  but  of  compara- 
tively little  importance. 

Eaihuay  Stations.  — Queen  Street  station  was  originally 
the  Dundas  Street  station  of  the  Edinburgh  and  Glas- 
gow railway,  opened  in  1842.  The  old  station  was  very 
dingy,  and  became  thoroughly  unsuitable  for  the  large 
amount  of  traffic  it  had  latterly  to  accommodate. 
AVithin  the  last  few  years  great  changes  have  been 
made,  and  there  are  now  four  double  platforms,  covered 
by  a  glass  roof  450  feet  long,  SO  high,  and  250  in  span, 
supported  by  semicircular  lattice  girders ;  but  much 
still  remains  to  be  accomplished  before  the  external 
frontages  will  be  worth}'  of  the  North  British  system. 
The  cab-stand  is  at  the  E  side,  and  beyond  are  lines  and 
offices  for  the  accommodation  of  the  goods  traffic.  The 
chief  station  of  the  Caledonian  railway  is  the  Central, 
covering  the  greater  portion  of  the  ground  between 
Gordon  Street,  Union  Street,  Argyle  Street,  and  Hope 
Street,  from  all  of  which  it  is  ultimately  to  have  en- 
trances, of  which  three  are  already  available.  The  roof 
is  carried  on  cross  iron  lattice  girders,  with  a  sjiau  of 
250  feet,  and  placed  about  30  feet  apart ;  running  across 
these  are  small  ridges  with  glass,  extending  for  a  length 
of  600  feet.  The  principal  entrance  is  from  Gordon 
Street,  by  a  large  hall  containing  the  booking  offices. 
Along  the  N  and  E  sides  are  also  the  various  offices  and 
waiting-rooms.  There  are  four  double  and  two  single 
platforms.  The  cab-stand  is  to  the  AV,  and  the  cab 
entrance  is  from  Hope  Street.  Along  Gordon  Street 
and  part  of  Hope  Street  imposing  buildings  for  a  hotel 
in  connection  are  fast  approaching  completion.  They 
are  six  stories  high,  with  large  arched  openings  below 
for  access  to  the  station.  The  entrance  is  at  the  NAV 
corner,  and  close  to  it  rises  a  lofty  and  massive  clock 
tower.  The  whole  buildings  will  cost  about  £700,000, 
and  form  a  handsome  addition  to  the  architectural  fea- 
tures of  the  city.  The  chief  station  of  the  Glasgow  and 
South-Western  railway  is  in  handsome  buildings  on  the 
E  side  of  St  Enoch's  Square.  They  are  domestic  Gothic 
in  style,  and  rise  to  a  height  of  five  stories,  with  base- 
ment and  attic  floors  besides.  A  sloping  road  leads  up 
from  the  NE  corner  of  the  square  to  the  principal  en- 
trance to  the  station,  where  the  roadway  is  protected  by 
a  glass  roof.  Large  doorways  lead  into  a  hall  containing 
the  booking  offices,  while  the  general  waiting-room — a 
large  and  comfortable  apartment— opens  off  on  the 
right.  The  offices,  etc.,  are  on  the  S  and  W  sides. 
There  are  three  double  and  two  single  platforms.  The 
cab-stand  is  on  the  S  side.  The  glass  roof  is  formed  by 
ridged  portions  supported  on  semicircular  lattice  girders, 
the  covered  portion  being  525  feet  long,  205  wide,  and 
84  high.  At  the  NE  corner  is  an  excellent  hotel  in 
connection  with  the  station,  the  chief  entrance  being 
from  the  station  roadway  at  the  NE  corner  of  the 
square.  There  is  a  handsome  porch,  and  the  buildings 
as  a  whole  form  one  of  the  most  imposing  structures  in 
Glasgow.     The  buildings  were  partly  opened  in  1870, 


and  were  finished  in  1880,  the  total  cost  being  over 
£500,000.  The  Bridge  Street  station  is  a  high-level 
station  at  the  S  end  ot  Glasgow  Bridge,  and  was,  before 
St  Enoch's  was  opened,  the  principal  station  of  the 
Glasgow  and  South-AVestern  Company.  It  is  now  used 
partly  by  them  and  partly  by  the  Caledonian  Company 
as  a  S  side  station  for  trains  on  their  way  to  the  Central. 
The  ]irincipal  station  of  the  Caledonian  Company  for 
their  N  traffic  is  a  very  ungainly  and  mean  building  at 
the  N  end  of  Buchanan  Street.  It  is  sadly  in  want  of 
improvement.  The  other  stations  at  Eglinton  Street, 
College  Street,  Gallowgate,  Shields  Road,  Terminus 
Quay,  Cathcart  Road,  Kinning  Park,  Stobcross,  and 
elsewhere  do  not  call  for  particular  mention. 

Ilotcls. — There  are  53  hotels  in  Glasgow,  of  which 
the  principal,  architecturally — the  St  Enoch's  and  the 
Central — have  just  been  noticed,  but  many  of  the  others 
are  tasteful  and  handsome  buildings. 

Arcades. — Besides  the  Ai'gyle  and  AVellington  Ar- 
cades already  mentioned,  there  is  another  called  the 
Central  Arcade  in  the  block  of  buildings  between  Both- 
well  Street  and  AVaterloo  Street  and  immediately  ad- 
joining Hope  Street.  It  has  three  entrances,  one  from 
each  of  those  streets,  is  oval  in  shape,  and  has  shops  all 
round.  In  the  centre  of  the  open  oval  are  two  spaces 
where  flower  beds  may  be  put.  It  was  finished  recently, 
and  has  as  yet  only  a  few  of  the  shops  occupied.  There 
is  a  furniture  arcade  between  Saltmarket  and  King 
Street. 

Infirmaries,  Hospitals,  and  Dispensaries.  — The  Royal 
Infirmary  was  projected  in  1787  by  George  Jardine, 
professor  of  logic  in  Glasgow  University.  At  a  public 
meeting  a  committee  was  appointed  to  collect  subscrip- 
tions and  look  for  a  site,  and  in  1788  the  site  of  the 
archbishop's  castle  was  fixed  on.  In  1791  George  III. 
granted  a  charter  of  incorporation,  fixing  the  number  of 
governors  at  twenty-five,  containing  among  others  re- 
presentatives from  the  town  council  and  the  Univer- 
sity ;  and  the  wished-for  site  having  been  obtained,  the 
foundation  stone  of  the  buildings  was  laid  on  18  May 
1792,  with  great  ceremonial  and  full  masonic  honours, 
and  in  the  end  of  1793  the  first  part  of  the  building, 
which  stands  to  the  NAV  of  the  Cathedral,  was  erected. 
This,  the  original  portion  of  the  existing  structure,  is  a 
large  building  in  the  Roman  style,  with  four  stories 
above  ground  and  one  below.  In  front  is  a  tetrastyle 
Corinthian  portico,  and  rising  above  all  is  a  fine  ribbed 
cupola.  It  contained  15  wards  and  283  beds.  The 
second  block  of  buildings,  called  the  fever  hospital,  with 
11  wards  and  267  beds,  was  erected  in  1832,  stands  a 
little  to  the  N  of  the  former  block,  and  is  much  plainer. 
The  third  building  was  erected  in  1861  at  a  cost  of 
£12,200  ;  but  though  the  actual  size  is  tlius  increased, 
rearrangements,  rendered  necessary  by  improved  ideas 
of  accommodation,  have  taken  away  so  much  of  the 
original  supposed  space,  that  accommodation  is  now 
provided  for  only  550  patients  in  all.  The  institution 
is  mainly  supported  by  voluntary  contributions,  which 
always  include  a  large  quota  from  the  working-classes, 
to  whom  it  renders  such  good  service.  It  has  also  a 
permanent  stock  capital,  which  was  in  1854  greatly 
supplemented  by  a  legacy  of  £10,000  from  Mr  James 
Ewing  of  Strathleven.  'The  affairs  of  the  infirmary  are 
managed  by  a  board  consisting  at  present  of  27 
members,  including  the  Lord  Provost,  the  members  of 
parliament  for  the  city,  the  Dean  of  Guild,  the  Deacon- 
Convener,  2  representatives  from  the  University,  the 
President  of  the  Faculty  of  Physicians  and  Surgeons, 
and  a  number  of  distinguished  physicians  and  surgeons. 
Connected  with  it  is  a  medical  school,  with  lecturers 
on  chemistry,  anatomy,  physiology,  surgery,  medicine, 
materia  medica,  pathology,  midwifery,  medical  juris- 
prudence, and  diseases  of  the  mind.  The  medical 
school  was  founded  six  years  ago  under  a  supplementary 
charter,  and  buUdings  for  its  accommodation  were 
opened  in  November  1882.  These,  which  have  been 
erected  by  public  subscription,  are  immediately  to  the 
N  of  the  Infirmary  buildings.  They  are  plain  Italian, 
and  contain  all   the  necessary  accommodatipn  .for  lef- 


GLASGOW 

tures  and  work  in  the  shape  of  disecting-room  (67  feet 
long,  25  wide,  and  24  high),  osteology-room,  labora- 
tories, retiring-rooms,  lavatories.  New  and  important 
features  are  a  students'  room,  where  students  may 
smoke,  read,  or  chat  in  the  intervals  of  their  classes ; 
and  a  toxological  laboratory  for  practical  instruction  in 
the  testing  for  poisons.  The  institution  of  the  school 
was  deemed  necessary  in  consequence  of  the  removal  of 
the  University  and  the  severance  of  the  old  ties  between 
its  medical  faculty  and  the  infirmary.  The  infirmary 
also  provides  clinical  instruction  for  students  attending 
Anderson's  College.  The  staff  consists  of  5  physi- 
cians, 5  surgeons,  2  dispensary  physicians,  3  extra 
dispensary  physicians,  2  dispensary  surgeons,  3  extra 
dispensary  surgeons,  an  aural  surgeon,  a  vaccinator, 
a  dental  surgeon,  an  apothecary,  a  superintendent, 
a  chaplain,  a  matron,  and  the  usual  complement 
of  nurses  and  servants.  The  total  number  of  in- 
door patients  treated  has  risen  from  over  4000  in  1861 
to  over  6000  in  1881  ;  and  the  number  of  outdoor 
patients  from  over  10,000  in  1861  to  over  23,000  in 
1881,  of  whom  on  an  average  90  per  cent,  are  cured, 
while  on  an  average  1000  children  are  vaccinated 
every  year.  The  wards  are  generally  full,  but  now  an 
arrangement  exists  by  which  patients  are  sent  from  the 
Eoyal  Infirmary  to  the  Western,  or  vice  versd,  when 
either  has  no  bed  to  spare.  The  ordinary  expenditure 
in  1861  was  £9143  ;  in  1881  it  was  nearly  £24,000, 
while  in  the  latter  year  the  ordinary  income  was  under 
£19,000,  and  notwithstanding  the  utmost  economy — 
and  when  it  is  considered  that  the  most  recent  im- 
provements in  nursing  and  management  have  been 
introduced,  it  is  probable  that  nowhere  in  the  kingdom 
is  there  an  infirmary  where  the  patients  are  so  well 
cared  for  at  so  little  expense — the  expenditure  has 
for  several  years  exceeded  the  income  by  £4000  on 
an  average  every  year.  The  continued  strain  can  be 
met  only  in  one  of  two  ways,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped 
that  the  increased  benevolence  of  the  public  will  pre- 
vent the  necessity  of  lessening  the  number  of  patients 
treated. 

The  Western  Infirmary  stands  on  a  rising-ground  to 
the  W  of  the  new  University  buildings  at  Gilmorehill, 
with  the  entrance  from  Dumbarton  Eoad,  a  little  to  the 
W  of  the  bridge  over  the  Kelvin.  It  was  founded  in 
1871,  and  part  of  it  completed  and  opened  in  1874.  It 
has  now  accommodation  for  about  350  patients.  The 
buildings,  which  are  Jacobean  in  style,  are  constructed 
on  the  block  and  pavilion  system,  and  have  cost  about 
£100,000.  They  are  460  feet  long  from  E  to  W,  and 
260  feet  from  N  to  S,  and  may  be  described  generally  as 
consisting  of  nine  blocks  which  intersect  one  another  at 
three  places,  the  stairs,  hoists,  and  slioots  being  placed 
at  the  intersections.  The  ventilating  and  sanitary  ar- 
rangements are  of  the  most  improved  description.  The 
wards  are  lighted  by  windows  at  the  sides,  and  vary  in 
size,  containing  from  14  to  18  beds  each.  They  are 
15  feet  high,  and  their  width  is  26  feet,  affording  from 
105  to  110  square  feet  of  floor-space,  and  1575  cubic  feet 
per  bed.  On  the  basement  is  the  kitchen,  which  measures 
40  by  26  feet,  store-rooms,  laboratory,  nurses'  dining- 
rooms,  etc.  To  the  N  are  the  washing  department, 
engine-room,  and  heating  apparatus.  There  are  also 
theatres  for  pathological  and  post-mortem  examinations, 
and  one  for  operations  and  lectures,  the  last  with  accom- 
modation for  300  persons.  It  is  managed  by  a  board  of 
of  27  directors  chosen  from  various  public  bodies,  and 
from  the  general  subscribers.  It  is  attended  by  students 
from  the  University  and  from  the  Western  Jledical 
School.  The  staff  consists  of  5  physicians,  4  surgeons,  3 
outdoor  physicians-accoucheurs,  3  dispensary  physicians, 
1  extra  dispensary  physician,  3  dispensary  surgeons, 
1  extra  dispensary  surgeon,  a  pathologist,  an  aural 
surgeon,  a  dental  surgeon,  a  pathological  chemist,  an 
apothecary,  a  superintendent,  a  matron,  nurses,  and 
servants.  Accident  cases  are  admitted  at  any  time, 
and  there  are  special  wards  for  the  diseases  of  women 
and  for  skin  diseases.  During  the  year  ending  31  Oct. 
1881,  2648  indoor  and  14,456  outdoor  patients  were 
140 


GLASGOW 

treated,  and  the  ordinary  income  was  £13,216,  but  now 
that  the  whole  building  is  occupied,  the  estimated  total 
expenditure  every  year  will  be  £17,000,  which  has  to  be 
supplied  by  voluntary  contributions.  In  connection 
with  the  Royal  and  Western  Infirmaries  is  the  Glas- 
gow Convalescent  Home  at  Lenzie,  which,  however, 
also  admits  other  patients. 

The  old  City  Fever  Hospital  is  in  the  St  Rollox  district, 
SW  of  St  Rollox  chemical  works.  It  covers  a  consider- 
able space,  bounded  by  Balrd  Street,  Black  Street,  Ken- 
nedy Street,  and  Oswald  Street,  and  consists  of  eight 
main  detached  blocks,  besides  the  usual  out-buildings. 
The  new  City  Fever  and  Smallpox  Hospital  is  at  Bel- 
videre,  to  the  E  of  the  city,  S  of  London  Road,  and  close 
to  the  corporation  water-work  reservoirs.  The  smallpox 
hospital  was  finished  in  1877  at  a  cost  of  about  £30,000. 
The  building  consists  of  five  detached  pavilions,  with 
out-houses  constructed  principally  of  brick.  In  order 
that  there  may  be  free  circulation  of  air,  the  enclosing 
wall  is  built  on  a  novel  plan,  being  placed  in  a  trench, 
with  the  ground  sloping  up  on  either  side  to  a  height 
of  about  three-fourths  of  the  wall.  The  fever  hospital 
is  not  yet  finished,  some  of  the  buildings  being  still 
temporary  ones.  There  are  eight  pavilions  entirely  de- 
tached with  out-buildings.  It  lies  to  the  S  of  the  small- 
pox hospitals.  It  is  proposed  at  once  to  replace  some 
of  the  temporary  buildings  by  three  wards  (90  beds),  for 
which  contracts  have  been  accepted.  There  is  a  joint 
fever  and  smallpox  hospital  for  the  burghs  of  Partick, 
Hillhead,  and  Maryhill,  at  Knightswood,  about  2  miles , 
to  the  W  of  Hillhead.  The  Glasgow  Public  Dispensary 
is  in  Dundas  Street,  and  was  established  for  the  purpose 
of  giving  gratuitous  advice  to  poor  people  not  receiving 
parochial  relief.  There  are  clinical  classes  in  connection 
with  it,  and  patients  unable  to  come  to  the  dispensary 
are  visited  by  the  students  at  their  own  homes.  The 
medical  stafi'  consists  of  a  consulting  physician,  a  con- 
sulting surgeon,  and  specialists  for  diseases  of  the  throat 
and  chest,  of  the  kidneys  and  urinary  organs,  of  the  ear 
and  skin,  and  of  women  and  children.  It  is  entirely 
supported  by  voluntary  contributions.  There  is  a 
dispensary  connected  with  Anderson's  College  within 
the  college  buildings.  It  has  a  staflF  of  7  physicians,  6 
surgeons,  3  physicians  and  surgeons  for  the  diseases  of 
women  and  children,  one  for  diseases  of  the  skin,  one 
for  diseases  of  the  eye,  one  for  diseases  of  the  ear,  one 
dispenser,  and  one  superintendent  of  outdoor  visiting 
department.  The  objects  are  the  same  as  in  the  last 
institution,  and,  in  1881,  the  cases  were — medical  4757, 
surgical  1803,  women  and  children  1427,  skin  508, 
eye  360,  ear  377,  and  outdoor  3628.  The  Glasgow 
Eye  Infirmary  was  originally  in  Charlotte  Street,  and 
has  still  a  branch  there  for  East  End  patients,  but  in 
1873-74  fresh  accommodation  was  provided  in  the 
West  End,  where  a  building  of  two  stories  was  erected, 
with  waiting,  surgical,  dispensing,  ophthalmoscopic, 
and  attendants'  rooms.  It  is  French  Gothic  in  style, 
and  has  a  centre  and  two  wings  with  fronts  to  Berkeley 
Street  West,  and  to  Claremont  Street.  It  contains  56 
beds  for  operation  cases,  while  the  Charlotte  Street 
branch  has  24  for  the  same  purpose.  There  are  clinical 
classes,  and  the  institution  is  recognised  by  the  faculty 
of  physicians  and  surgeons  as  a  public  dispensary.  It 
is  managed  by  13  directors,  and  has  11  gentlemen  visitors 
and  13  lady  visitors,  and  has  a  house-steward  and  house- 
keeper at  each  branch.  The  stafi'  consists  of  a  consult- 
ing surgeon,  3  surgeons,  3  assistant-surgeons,  and  a 
resident  medical  clerk.  The  number  of  cases  treated  in 
1881  was  10,873.  There  is  also  an  Ophthalmic  Institu- 
tion in  West  Regent  Street,  which  treats  cases  among 
the  poor  by  performing  operations,  treating  indoor  cases, 
and  giving  gratuitous  advice  and  medicine  to  outdoor 
patients.  It  is  managed  by  20  directors,  and  the  patron 
is  the  Earl  of  Stair.  Three  patients  a  year  may  be  sent 
by  each  subscriber  of  a  guinea  a  year  or  donor  of  £5,  at 
any  time.  There  are  clinical  classes  in  connection  with 
it,  and  the  staff  consists  of  a  consulting  physician,  an 
acting  surgeon,  an  acting  physician,  2  clinical  assistants, 
and  2  dispensary  assistants.     In  1881  there  were  3004 


GLASGOW 

outdoor  and  318  indoor  patients  admitted.  The  Dis- 
pensary for  Skin  Diseases  is  in  Elmbank  Street,  and  is 
entirely  supported  by  voluntary  contributions.  It  is 
managed  by  9  ordinary  and  8  extraordinary  directors, 
the  patron  being  the  Duke  of  Argyll.  Gratuitous  advice 
is  given  three  days  a  week,  and  in  connection  with  the 
dispensary  are  two  wards  in  the  Western  Infirmary,  to 
which  the  directors  have  power  to  send  the  more  serious 
cases.  There  is  a  summer  clinical  class  in  connection 
with  the  institution.  The  staff  consists  of  a  physician 
and  an  assistant-physician.  On  an  average  1200  patients 
are  treated  every  year.  The  Hospital  and  Infirmary  for 
Diseases  of  the  Ear  is  in  Buchanan  Street.  It  contains 
12  beds  for  indoor  cases,  and  is  supported  by  voluntary 
contributions.  It  is  managed  by  2S  patrons.  The  statf 
consists  of  a  consulting  physician,  a  consulting  surgeon, 
a  consulting  dental  surgeon,  3  ordinary  surgeons  and 
physicians,  a  lecturer  on  aural  surgery,  and  a  matron. 
There  is  clinical  instruction  for  students.  The  number 
of  patients  treated  annually  is  over  1000.  The  Dispen- 
sary for  Diseases  of  the  Chest  is  in  Dundas  Street. 
Gratuitous  advice  is  given  to  poor  patients  twice  a  week. 
The  affairs  are  managed  by  4  directors,  and  the  Duke  of 
Hamilton  is  the  patron.  The  Institution  for  Diseases  of 
Women  and  Children  is  at  Woodlands  Road.  It  is  sup- 
ported by  voluntary  contributions  ;  and  gratuitous  ad- 
vice is  given,  there  being  also  clinical  lectures.  The 
Glasgow  Maternity  or  Lying-in  Hospital  was  established 
in  1835,  and  stood  originally  in  St  Andrews  Square, 
but  was  subsequently  removed  to  the  corner  of  North 
Portland  Street  and  Rottenrow.  It  was  amalgamated 
with  the  University  Lying-in  Hospital  in  1873.  It  is 
supported  by  voluntary  contributions,  each  donor  of 
£5,  5s.,  or  annual  subscriber  of  10s.  6d.,  being  entitled 
to  recommend  one  patient  annually  for  admission  to  the 
hospital.  There  are  also  clinical  classes.  New  build- 
ings were  erected  and  opened  in  1881.  They  form  a 
plain  but  handsome  structure  in  the  Early  English 
Domestic  Gothic,  the  principal  entrance  being  from 
North  Portland  Street,  by  an  arched  doorway  with  pedi- 
ment, having  the  city  arms,  and  the  dates  when  the 
institution  was  founded  and  rebuilt.  The  building  is 
three  stories  high,  and  has  attics  besides.  The  basement 
contains  the  lecture-rooms,  and  the  resident  ofBcials' 
quarters,  etc.  ;  the  second  and  third  floors  contain  accom- 
modation for  36  patients,  and  for  the  nui'ses,  while  in  the 
attics  are  a  sanatorium  and  servants'  rooms.  In  detached 
buildings  are  the  laundry,  washhouse,  etc.  The  affairs 
are  managed  by  directors  chosen  from  five  public  bodies, 
and  from  the  general  subscribers.  The  staff  consists  of 
aconsulting  physician,  a  consulting  surgeon,  2  physicians- 
accoucheur,  2  assistant  physicians-accoucheur,  a  house 
surgeon,  6  outdoor  accoucheurs,  and  a  matron,  with  the 
proper  complement  of  nurses  and  servants.  In  1881  the 
number  of  patients  aided  was  1247.  The  Lock  Hospital 
in  Rottenrow  was  incorporated  by  seal  of  cause  from  the 
magistrates  in  1805,  for  the  cure  of  unfortunate  females. 
It  is  supported  by  voluntar}'  contributions,  and  managed 
by  12  directors,  of  whom  2  are  chosen  by  the  faculty  of 
physicians  and  surgeons,  1  from  the  clergy,  1  from  the 
town  council,  1  from  the  Merchants'  House,  1  from  the 
Trades'  House,  and  6  from  the  general  body  of  subscribers. 
The  average  number  of  patients  daUy  is  between  30 
and  40,  and  about  350  are  admitted  every  year. 
There  are  2  acting  surgeons.  The  Glasgow  Royal  Lunatic 
Asylum  is  now  outside  the  city,  to  the  W  at  Gartnavel, 
in  the  parish  of  Govan.  The  original  Lunatic  Asylum 
was  begun  in  1810  and  opened  in  1814,  and  stood  on  what 
was  at  that  time  a  secluded  site  in  the  northern  outskirts 
of  the  city,  but  which  is  now  on  the  N  side  of  Parlia- 
mentary Road  with  all  its  bustle.  It  lost  the  requisite 
quiet  and  amenity,  first  by  the  tunnelling  of  the  Edin- 
turgh  and  Glasgow  railway  beneath  it,  and  next  by  the 
encroachments  of  the  public  streets,  and  in  1841  was 
sold  for  £15,000,  to  be  converted  into  the  City  Poor- 
house.  The  present  edifice,  which  is  about  1  mile  W  of 
the  Botanic  Gardens,  and  stands  on  a  broad  low  eminence 
commanding  a  splendid  view,  was  founded  in  1842  and 
opened  in  1843,  at  a  cost,  including  the  site  of  66  acres, 


GLASGOW 

of  £75,950.  It  is  a  very  large,  but  far  from  beautiful, 
pile,  in  a  poor  Tudor  style.  There  is  accommodation 
lor  over  500  patients,  from  all  grades  of  society,  and  at 
all  rates  of  board.  The  first-class  division  or  West  House 
consists  of  three  sides  of  a  quadrangle,  the  principal  one 
492  feet  long,  and  each  of  the  others  186  feet ;  the 
second-class  division  or  East  House  also  consists  of  three 
sides  of  a  quadrangle,  the  principal  one  285  feet  long, 
and  each  of  the  others  196  feet.  The  Asylum  is  incor- 
porated by  Royal  Charter,  and  managed  by  a  board  of 
22  directors,  partly  composed  of  representatives  from 
various  public  bodies,  and  partly  appointed  by  the 
qualified  contributors  to  the  funds.  The  non-resident 
staff  consists  of  a  consulting  physician,  a  surgeon,  and 
a  chaplain,  the  resident,  of  a  physician,  2  assistant- 
physicians,  2  matrons,  and  3  superintendents,  with  a 
proper  staff  of  keepers.  There  are  lunatic  asylums  con- 
nected with  the  poorhouses,  but  the  Barony  Asylum 
was,  in  1875,  removed  to  new  buildings  at  Lenzie,  and 
the  Govan  one  is  noticed  in  the  article  Govax. 

Meligious  and  Philanthro2nc  Societies  and  Iiistitutions. 
— The  Night  Asylum  and  Soup  Kitchen  for  the  houseless 
or  utterly  destitute  is  in  North  Frederick  Street.  It 
was  first  opened  in  1837,  and  now  admits  yearly  about 
40,000  persons,  and  provides  nearly  200,000  meals.  It 
is  managed  by  36  directors,  a  superintendent,  and  a 
matron,  and  has  connected  with  it  a  house  of  industry 
for  indigent  women.  The  House  of  Shelter  in  Hill  Street 
was  instituted  in  1850  as  a  home  for  women  liberated 
from  prison  and  desirous  to  reform  and  support  them- 
selves by  honest  industry.  The  house  is  under  the 
charge  of  a  matron  and  the  inmates  are  lodged,  fed,  and 
clothed  in  return  for  their  labour  at  needlework.  The 
average  number  of  inmates  is  about  46.  The  Glasgow 
Institution  for  Orphan  and  Destitute  Girls  has  homes  in 
South  York  Street  and  Whiteinch  each  imder  a  matron. 
It  was  established  in  1826  to  rescue  orphan  and  entirely 
destitute  girls,  and  to  give  them  an  education  and 
training  fitting  them  for  domestic  servants.  Quarrier's 
City  Orphan  Home,  Working  Boj's'  Home,  Children's 
Night  Refuge,  Young  Women's  Shelter  and  Mission 
Hall  is  in  James  Morrison  Street.  It  is  in  connection 
with  the  other  home  at  Bridge  of  Weir  and  the  training 
homes  for  Canada  at  Govan  Road,  Govan,  and  helps  on 
an  average  nearly  200  young  people  and  children  every 
year  permanently,  besides  a  much  larger  number  tem- 
porarily. In  all  the  homes  there  are  at  present  about 
430  inmates,  and  the  expense  of  them  all  amounts  to 
about  £7000  a  year  eutirel}''  supplied  by  private  bene- 
volence. The  average  income  for  the  last  ten  years  for 
all  has  been  about  £9000  per  annum.  The  Glasgow- 
Home  for  Deserted  Mothers  in  Renfrew  Street  was  in- 
stituted in  1873,  and  is  supported  by  voluntary  sub- 
scriptions. It  is  managed  by  a  board  of  ten  directors 
and  a  matron,  who  looks  after  the  inmates,  who  are 
deserted  and  houseless  mothers  with  helpless  infants,  or 
those  who  have  for  the  first  time  been  led  astray. 
Efforts  are  afterwards  made  to  procure  them  situations. 
The  Magdalene  Institution,  incorporated  by  royal  char- 
ter, is  partly  self-supporting,  and  partly  maintained  by 
subscriptions ;  and  has  a  probationary  home  at  Stirling 
Road,  where  there  is  accommodation  for  50  inmates.  The 
well  conducted  are  transferred  thence  to  the  reformatory 
and  industrial  house  at  Lochburn  near  Maryhill,  where 
there  is  accommodation  for  130  inmates.  It  is  managed 
bj'  a  board  of  51  directors.  The  Asylum  for  the  Blind  was 
originally  founded,  in  1804,  by  John  Leitch,  a  citizen  of 
Glasgow,  who  had  suffered  injury  of  sight,  and  who  be- 
queathed £5000  towards  commencing  and  maintaining 
the  institution.  It  was  for  many  years  watched  over 
by  John  Alston,  one  of  the  city  magistrates,  who  intro- 
duced many  contrivances  for  aiding  the  instruction  of 
the  inmates.  Since  its  first  start  it  has  been  greatly 
aided  by  legacies  and  donations,  and  now  the  work  done 
in  it  is  such  as  to  render  it  almost  self-supporting.  The 
buUdings  are  in  Castle  Street  near  the  Royal  Infirmary. 
They  were  originally  erected  by  voluntary  subscription 
in  1827-28,  but  are  now  being  renewed.  Those  com- 
prising the  southern  portion  of  the  new  structure  were 

141 


GLASGOW 

completed  and  opened  in  Nov.  1882.  'They  contain 
shops,  warehouses,  schoolrooms,  and  dormitories,  while 
the  workrooms  will  be  in  the  northern  division,  which 
is  still  to  build.  Externally,  the  buildings  are  plain, 
but  at  the  SW  angle  is  a  good  semi-detached,  hexagonal 
tower.  The  statue  of  Christ  restoring  sight  to  the 
blind  was  presented  by  Mr  C.  Tennant  of  The  Glen. 
The  institution  is  managed  by  a  large  board  of  directors, 
partly  chosen  from  various  public  bodies,  and  partly 
from  the  contributors,  and  includes  a  school  for  educa- 
tional training,  and  a  large  manufactory  for  making 
baskets,  cordage,  sacking,  and  other  articles.  There 
are  several  shops  in  different  parts  of  the  city  for  the 
sale  of  the  articles  manufactured.  The  number  of  in- 
mates is  about  160.  There  is  a  city  mission  for  the  out- 
door blind,  and  connected  with  it  is  a  ladies'  auxiliary 
association  for  visiting  blind  women  and  teaching  them 
knitting.  The  mission  has  under  its  care  about  1100 
people.  The  Glasgow  Convalescent  Home  is  at  Lenzie, 
as  has  been  already  noticed.  There  is  accommodation 
for  67  patients,  of  whom  30  are  taken  from  the  Royal 
Infirmary,  27  from  the  general  public  resident  in  Glas- 
gow and  its  neighbourhood,  and  10  from  the  Western 
Infirmary.  There  are  also  convalescent  seaside  homes 
at  Dunoon  and  Kilmun  for  the  provision  of  good  food, 
baths,  and  sea  air  for  the  necessitous  and  deserving  of 
the  industrial  classes  who  are  recovering  from  illness. 
The  former  has  accommodation  for  150  and  the  latter 
for  100  inmates.  Each  donor  of  £10  or  annual  sub- 
scriber of  £1  is  entitled  to  recommend  one  person 
annually  for  admission.  There  are  Dorcas  Societies  in 
connection  \vith  the  Royal  Infirmary,  and  in  connection 
with  the  City  of  Glasgow  and  Joint  Burghs  fever  and 
smallpox  hospitals,  and  a  Samaritan  Society  in  connec- 
tion with  the  Western  Infirmary  for  the  purpose  of  sup- 
plying warm  and  sufficient  clothing  and  surgical  appli- 
ances, as  well  as  for  giving  temporary  help  to  the 
families  of  poor  patients  who  are  leaving  hospital.  As 
an  example  of  their  work,  it  may  be  mentioned  that 
during  1881-82  the  Eoyal  Infirmary  Society  aided  549 
men  and  325  women,  and  had  an  income  of  £912, 
15s.  9d.  and  an  expenditure  of  £619,  14s.  Id.  The  Poor 
Children's  Dinner  Table  Society  provides  deserving 
and  destitute  children  with  one  meal  daily  during  the 
winter  months.  During  the  winter  of  1881-82  eleven 
tables  in  different  parts  of  the  city  were  in  operation 
daily,  and  provided  213,000  dinners,  besides  a  large 
number  of  bread  tickets  given  to  the  children  when  they 
were  visited  at  home.  The  ladies'  committee  in  connec- 
tion with  the  society  made  over  3600  yards  of  material 
into  diff'erent  articles  of  clothing.  The  income  for 
1881-82  was  £1818,  17s.  2d.,  and  the  expenditure 
£1813,  14s.  lid.  The  Glasgow  Female  Benevolent 
Society  was  instituted  in  1779  to  enable  a  small  monthly 
allowance  to  a  limited  number  of  aged  and  destitute 
■women  (chiefly  widows).  It  is  supported  by  voluntary 
contributions.  The  Training  Home  for  Kurses  is  in 
Renfrew  Street,  and  was  established  for  the  purpose  of 
educating  women  of  high  character  to  nurse  the  sick. 
There  is  accommodation  for  20  nurses,  7  private  patients, 
and  20  patients  in  two  wards,  with  10  beds  in  each. 
The  Association  for  the  Relief  of  Incurables  has  offices 
in  Bath  Street  and  a  hospital  at  Broomhill  Home, 
Kirkintilloch,  Dumbartonshire,  with  accommodation 
for  62  patients  ;  about  150  patients  are  also  assisted  at 
their  own  homes  every  month.  The  Little  Sisters  of 
the  Poor  have  a  building  known  as  St  Joseph's  Home  for 
the  Aged,  at  Garngad  Hill.  It  was  founded  in  1862, 
and  now  contains  225  aged  poor  of  both  sexes,  entirely 
dependent  on  public  charity,  as  the  Sisters  have  no 
funds.  The  Sailors'  Home  is  on  the  Broomielaw. 
Besides  these  there  is  a  United  Evangelistic  Asso- 
ciation, an  auxiliary  to  the  London  Missionary  Society, 
a  Working-Men's  Total  Abstinence  Society,  an  Ab- 
stainers' Union,  a  Scottish  Band  of  Hope  Union,  a 
Permissive  Bill  and  Temperance  Association,  a  Branch 
of  the  Scottish  Temperance  League,  lodges  of  the  Inde- 
pendent Order  of  Good  Templars,  a  Branch  of  the 
National  Bible  Society,  a  West  of  Scotland  Bible 
142 


GLASGOW 

Society,  a  United  Young  Men's  Christian  Association,*  a 
Young  Women's  Christian  Association,  a  Protestant 
Association,  a  Protestant  Laymen's  Association,  a  Glas- 
gow, a  Southern  District,  a  Govan  District,  a  Western, 
and  a  Middle  District  Sabbath  School  Union,  a  Foundry 
Boys'  Religious  Society,  with  90  branches  and  a  mem- 
bership of  19,000  boys  and  girls,  a  Working-Men's 
Evangelistic  Association,  a  City  Mission,  with  a  ladies' 
auxiliary,  a  Cabmen's  Mission,  a  Seamen  and  Boat- 
men's Mission,  a  Gaelic  Mission,  a  Medical  Mission, 
a  Mission  to  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  a  Continental 
Society,  with  a  ladies'  auxiliary,  a  Mormon  prose- 
lytising Mission,  an  Aged  Women's  Society,  an 
Association  for  Providing  'Trained  Nurses  for  the  West 
of  Scotland,  branches  of  the  Humane  Society  and  the 
Society  for  the  Prevention  of  Cruelty  to  Animals,  a 
Celtic  Society,  an  Angus  and  Mearns,  an  Ayrshire,  an 
Eaglesham,  a  Caithness,  a  Clydesdale  Upper  Ward,  a 
Galloway,  a  City  of  Glasgow,  a  Western,  a  London,  an 
Orkney  and  Shetland,  a  Fife,  Kinross,  and  Clackman- 
nan, a  Water  of  Endrick,  a  North  Britons,  a  Barony  of 
Gorbals,  a  Kintyre,  a  Northern  Highlands,  and  a  Sea- 
man's Friendly  or  Benevolent  Society,  two  lodges  of 
Oddfellows,  a  Court  of  the  Order  of  Free  Foresters,  an 
Association  for  Organising  Charitable  Relief,  and 
branches  of  the  St  George's,  Commercial  Travellers', 
and  Scottish  Wine  and  Spirit  Merchants'  Societies, 
besides  a  number  of  institutions  of  the  same  sort  con- 
nected with  various  trade  incorporations  and  others  of 
lesser  note. 

Charitable  Bequests. — Mitchell's  mortification  dates 
from  1729,  and  yields  about  £113  per  annum  for  de- 
cayed old  men  and  women,  4  old  burgesses,  2  widows, 
and  2  unmarried  daughters  of  burgesses,  all  of  merchant 
rank  ;  and  3  burgesses,  3  widows,  and  1  unmarried 
daughter  of  a  burgess,  all  of  trades  rank.  The  amount 
of  stock  in  May  1882  was  £2692,  14s.  8d.  M'Alpine's 
mortification  was  founded  in  1811  by  Mrs  M'Alpine,  for 
the  maintenence  of  poor  men  and  aged  women  of  the  de- 
scription mentioned  in  her  wiU.  The  former  get  £10  a 
year,  the  latter  £5.  The  trustees  are  the  deacon,  convener, 
and  the  ministers  of  eight  of  the  Established  churches. 
Black's  bequest  for  domestic  servants  was  founded  by 
Dr  James  Black  in  1834.  There  are  about  200  pen- 
sioners who  are  faithful  domestic  servants  settled  in 
Glasgow  or  its  neighbourhood  who  have  been  for  ten 
years  or  upwards  in  one  situation,  and  each  of  whom 
receives  £2,  10s.  per  annum.  The  Robertson  bequest 
was  founded  by  Miss  Robertson  in  1844,  and  afibrds 
pensions  of  £9  a  year  to  each  of  ten  decayed  gentle- 
women over  45  years  of  age,  unmarried,  and  who  have 
resided  in  Glasgow  for  at  least  ten  years,  and  pensions 
of  £4,  10s.  a  year  to  each  of  ten  female  servants  over 
50  years  of  age,  unmarried,  and  who  have  been  seven 
years  in  one  situation  in  Glasgow,  but  who,  when 
elected,  are  out  of  service.  The  Ewing  bequests  were- 
founded  in  1860  by  James  Ewing  of  Strathleven,  the- 
total  amount  being  £30, 000,  less  legacy-duty,  the  income 
of  which  is  to  be  divided — one-third  among  decayed  Glas- 
gow merchants,  one-third  in  educating,  training,  and 
settling  their  sons  in  business,  and  the  remaining  one- 
third  among  their  widows  and  daughters.  It  is  under 
the  management  of  the  Merchants'  House.  Other  be- 
quests are  noticed  elsewhere,  and  there  are  a  number  of 
minor  ones. 

Scientific  and  Literary  Societies. — The  Philosophical 
Society  of  Glasgow  was  instituted  in  1802,  for  the  ad- 
vancement of  the  mathematical,  physical,  and  natural 
sciences.  It  meets  fortnightly  from  November  to  April, 
and  in  1881  the  number  of  members  and  associates  was 

*  The  Glasgow  United  Young  Men's  Christian  Association  was- 
instituted  in  1824,  and  has  Central,  Southern,  Eastern,  Govau, 
and  Particle  sections,  with  173  branches  and  a  membership  of 
over  7000.  There  are  reading-rooms  and  educational  classes  in 
connection  with  the  sections.  The  central  rooms  are  on  the  N" 
side  of  Bothwell  Street,  where  handsome  buildings  were  erected 
by  the  association  in  1879.  They  are  domestic  Early  English 
Gothic.  On  corbelled  niches  above  the  doorway  are  statues  of 
Knox  and  Tyndale,  and  above  the  windows  of  the  second  floor 
are  medallion  busts  of  Luther,  Melancthon,  Zningle,  Calvin, 
Wishart,  Cranmer,  and  'VVycklitlc. 


GLASGOW 

842.  It  has  a  very  fine  scientific  library,  containing 
about  6000  volumes,  and  it  publishes  proceedings.  The 
Natural  History  Society  of  Glasgow  was  instituted  in 
1851,  for  the  purpose  of  encouraging  the  pursuit  of 
natural  history  in  all  its  branches  and  promoting  the 
love  of  science  by  meetings,  for  the  exhibition  of  speci- 
mens, the  reading  of  papers,  and  the  arrangement  of 
excursions.  It  meets  once  a  month  from  September  to 
April.  The  Glasgow  Geological  Society,  founded  in 
1858  for  the  advancement  of  geological  science  by  meet- 
ings for  the  reading  of  papers,  the  exhibition  of  speci- 
mens, and  the  arrangement  of  excursions,  is  one  of  the 
most  hard  working  societies  in  Scotland,  and  has 
carried  out  its  purposes  admirably.  The  number  of 
ordinary  members  in  1880  was  230.  It  has  a  small 
museum  and  a  fine  library,  and  publishes  valuable 
volumes  of  transactions.  It  meets  once  a  month  from 
October  to  April,  and  once  a  fortnight  in  April,  May, 
and  June.  The  Glasgow  Archceological  Society  was 
founded  in  1856  for  the  encouragement  of  the  study  of 
archeology,  particularly  in  Glasgow  and  the  West  of 
Scotland.  It  meets  once  a  month  from  November  to 
April.  The  Institution  of  Engineers  and  Shipbuilders 
in  Scotland  was  founded  and  incorporated  to  promote 
the  advancement  of  science  and  practice  in  engineering 
and  shipbuilding.  It  has  a  good  library,  and  publishes 
transactions.  It  meets  once  a  month  from  October  to 
April.  All  these  societies  have  their  rooms  and  libraries 
jointly  in  a  building  in  Bath  Street.  The  Royal  Botanic 
Institution  maintains  and  manages  the  Koyal  Botanic 
Gardens  in  the  Great  Western  Eoad  in  Hillhead. 
Annual  family  tickets  cost  a  guinea ;  single  tickets, 
half  a  guinea  ;  and  non-subscribers  pay  6d.  a  visit, 
while  in  virtue  of  a  gift  of  £500  from  the  late  Mr  Camp- 
bell of  Tilliechowan,  admission  during  the  week  of  Glas- 
gow Fair  is  free.  The  original  Botanic  Garden  was  at 
the  old  College,  but  it  became  unsuitable,  and  when  the 
new  association  was  founded  in  1816  with  a  capital  of 
£6000,  in  ten-guinea  shares,  £2000  was  subscribed  by 
the  Universitj',  on  condition  that  the  regius  professor  of 
botany  should  have  the  use  of  the  lecture-room  in  the 
garden  and  access  to  the  plants.  The  society  was  incor- 
porated by  George  IV.,  and,  in  1819,  a  garden  of  six 
acres  was  laid  out  off  Sauchiehall  Road,  now  Sauchiehall 
Street.  This  was  overtaken  and  displaced  by  the  exten- 
sion of  the  city  to  the  W,  and  a  still  larger  garden  was 
then  formed  about  1842,  on  a  piece  of  gi'ound  in  Hill- 
head  between  the  Great  Western  Road  and  the  Kelvin, 
and  this  was  further  enlarged  in  1875  by  the  addition 
of  winter  gardens  laid  out  after  the  manner  of  those  at 
Chelsea.  The  ground  slopes  towards  the  Kelvin,  and 
is  beautifully  laid  out  with  plots  and  walks.  It  contains 
a  class-room  for  the  professor  of  botany  at  the  University, 
■which,  however,  is  not  used,  as  the  accommodation  is 
insufficient,  and  there  is  no  laboratory,  museum,  or 
herbarium.  Large  ranges  of  new  conservatories  have 
just  been  erected.  There  are  in  the  garden  about  15,000 
species  of  plants,  either  scientifically  arranged  or  named. 
To  the  NE  of  the  main  entrance  is  the  Kibble  Crystal 
Art  Palac-e  and  Conservatory,  which  was  erected  here  in 
1872.  It  takes  its  name  from  the  donor,  Mr  Kibble. 
There  are  two  domes  rising  to  a  height  of  about  40  feet, 
■while  the  larger  is  about  1 50  feet  in  diameter.  It  under- 
went extension,  and  was  more  elaborately  decorated  in 
1S74.  It  contains  accommodation  for  about  7000  persons, 
and  is  much  used,  under  special  management,  for  fetes. 
The  Maitland  Club  was  instituted  in  1828  for  printing 
MSS.  and  rare  works  illustrative  of  the  early  history, 
antiquities,  and  literature  of  Scotland,  and  has  published 
upwards  of  100  volumes,  many  of  them  of  the  highest 
historical  importance.  The  Glasgow  Art  Club  was 
founded  in  1867  for  the  advancement  of  art  in  Glasgow 
and  the  W  of  Scotland,  by  means  of  life  classes  and  an 
annual  exhibition  of  the  works  of  its  members  ;  and  the 
St  Mungo  Art  Society  was  instituted  in  1874  to  carry 
out  the  same  object  in  the  same  way.  The  Glasgow 
Juridical  Society  was  instituted  in  1847  for  the  discus- 
sion of  legal  and  cognate  subjects,  and  the  consideration 
of  questions  of  juridical  interest.      Members  must  be- 


GLASGOW 

long  to  the  legal  profession  or  be  law  students.  Tlie 
Glasgow  Legal  and  Speculative  Society  was  founded  in 
1852  for  conducting  debates  on  legal  and  speculative 
questions.  There  are  also  a  Hunterian  Club — with  a 
limited  membership  of  200,  for  printing  rare  old  MS. 
and  reprinting  scarce  and  interesting  ■ivorks  of  old 
authors  ;  a  Ruskin  Society — for  the  promotion  of  the 
study  of  Mr  Ruskin's  works,  and  of  'such  life  and 
learning  as  may  fitly  and  usefully  abide  in  this  country ; ' 
a  Glasgow,  Orkney,  and  Shetland  Literary  and  Scien- 
tific Association,  an  Institute  of  Accountants  and 
Actuaries,  an  Insurance  and  Actuarial  Society,  and 
an  Institute  of  Architects.  Among  the  miscellaneous 
societies  may  be  mentioned  the  Royal  Clyde  Yacht 
Club ;  the  distinguishing  flags  of  which  are  '  blue  burgee 
with  red  lion  on  yellow  shield,  surmounted  by  crown, 
and  blue  ensign  ; '  the  Royal  Northern  Yacht  Club, 
distinguished  by  '  blue  burgee  with  yellow  crown  and 
anchor,  and  blue  ensign;'  the  Western  Yacht  Club,  'red 
burgee  with  white  lion  rampant ; '  the  Clyde  Corinthian 
Yacht  Club,  'red  burgee  with  white  St  George's  cross 
and  red  lion  rampant  on  a  yello^w  shield,  and  a  red 
ensign ; '  the  Model  Yacht  Club  ;  the  Golf  Club,  with 
course  and  club-house  in  the  Alexandra  Park — over  200 
members ;  the  Wellcroft  Bowling  Club,  with  green 
close  to  Queen's  Park — membership  130  ;  the  Clydes- 
dale, West  of  Scotland,  Glasgow  Academical,  and 
United  Northern  Cricket  Clubs,  the  Glasgow  Inverary 
Shinty  Club,  the  Tam  o'  Shanter  Club,  the  Rambles 
round  Glasgow  Club,  the  Glasgow  Chess  Club,  the 
Glasgow  Draughts  Association,  the  Trout  Preservation 
Association,  the  Caledonian  Apiarian  Society,  the  Scot- 
tish Food  Reform  Society,  the  Tonic  Sol-Fa  Choral 
Society,  the  Glasgow  Choral  Union,  the  Glasgow  South- 
Side  Choral  Society,  the  Glasgow  Catholic  Choral 
Society,  the  Glasgow  Amateur  Orchestral  Society,  the 
Clyde  Amateur  Rowing  Club,  the  Art  Union  of  Glasgowy 
the  Glasgow  and  West  of  Scotland  Licensed  Grocers' 
Association,  the  Glasgow  Wine  and  Spirit  Trade  De 
fence  Association,  the  Glasgow  and  West  of  Scotland 
Guardian  Society  for  the  Protection  of  Trade,  the  Glas- 
gow Shipowners'  Association,  the  Glasgow  Landlords' 
Association,  the  Glasgow  Corn  Trade  Association,  the 
Maryhill  Agricultural  Society,  and  the  Glasgow  Agri- 
cultural Society.  Glasgow  occupies  a  prominent  posi- 
tion in  football  matters.  The  leading  Clubs  under 
association  rules  are  the  Queen's  Park,  Rangers,  and  3d 
L.R.V.  ;  and  the  leading  one  under  Rugby  rules  is  the 
Academical. 

Volunteers.  — Notices  of  the  early  Glasgow  Volunteers 
have  already  been  given  in  the  historical  section,  where 
mention  has  been  made  of  the  two  battalions  of  600 
men  each  raised  during  the  Rebellion  of  1745,  and  the 
regiment  of  1000  men  raised  in  1775,  and  sent  on  active 
service  during  the  American  War  of  Independence.  In 
1794,  during  the  spread  of  the  revolutionary  movement  in 
France,  which  culminated  in  the  French  events  of  1798, 
an  Act  of  Parliament  was  passed  empowering  the  raising 
of  five  companies  of  volunteers  in  Glasgow,  and  these 
were  accordingly  enrolled  to  the  strength  of  500  men, 
and  named  the  Royal  Glasgow  Volunteers.  The  men 
maintained  and  clothed  themselves,  but  were  provided 
with  arms  by  the  government.  After  the  war  with 
France  began  three  additional  regiments  were  raised — a 
second  regiment  of  Royal  Glasgow  Volunteers  of  800 
men  formed  into  10  companies,  who  were  both  main- 
tained and  armed  by  the  government ;  the  Royal  Glas- 
gow Volunteer  Light  Horse,  of  one  troop  of  60  rank  and 
file,  who  maintained  and  armed  themselves  ;  and  the 
Armed  Association  of  two  companies.  These  were  dis- 
banded in  1802  at  the  conclusion  of  the  peace  of  Amiens, 
but  when  the  war  again  broke  out  in  1803  eight  bat- 
talions of  infantry  and  a  squadron  of  cavalry  were 
formed — the  1st  Regiment  of  Glasgow  Volunteers  ■with 
900  men ;  the  2d  or  Trades  Battalion,  600  men ;  the 
3rd  or  Highland  Battalion,  700  men ;  the  4th  or 
Sharpshooters  Battalion,  700  men  ;  the  5th  or  Grocers 
Battalion,  600  men  ;  the  6th  or  Anderston  Battalion, 
900  men  ;  7th    the  Armed  Association,  300  men ;  and 

.143 


GLASGOW 

8tTi,  the  Canal  Volunteers  (artillery  with  two  field 
pieces),  300  men  ;  while  the  cavalry  were  about  100 
strong.  These  were,  with  other  troops  in  the  district 
to  a  total  of  ahout  7000  men,  reviewed  in  grand  state  on 
the  Green  in  1804  by  the  commander-in-chief  of  the 
forces  in  Scotland,  and  created  a  great  sensation  in  the 
city  by  firing  off  ten  rounds  of  blank  cartridge  per  man, 
the  effect  of  which  we  are  told  was  '  exceedingly  impres- 
sive, and  so  great  and  terrible  as  to  be  sublime.'  The 
g resent  volunteer  movement  originated  about  1858,  and 
lasgow  soon  showed  a  zeal  in  no  way  inferior  to  what 
had  been  exhibited  on  former  occasions  ;  and  when  the 
regiment  was  reviewed  by  the  Prince  of  Wales  in  1876 
on  the  Green,  the  muster  from  Glasgow  and  the  district 
was  6000  men.  Since  then  the  movement  has  become 
still  more  popular,  and  there  are  now  in  the  city  seven 
regiments  of  Rifle  Volunteers  (1st,  3rd,  4th,  5th,  6th, 
8th,  10th  Lanarkshire),  besides  a  regiment  of  Artillery 
Volunteers  and  of  Engineer  Volunteers,  representing  a 
total  strength  of  about  10,000  men.  Connected  with 
them  is  the  West  of  Scotland  Rifle  Association,  which 
has  a  prize  meeting  at  Cowglen  in  Renfrewshire  in  June 
every  year. 

Publications,  etc. — Letterpress  printing  was  first  intro- 
duced into  Glasgow  in  1638  by  George  Anderson,  who 
came  from  Edinburgh,  and  who  had  there  printed 
several  books  in  the  University  in  1637-38.  He  came 
to  Glasgow  in  the  year  of  the  famous  General  Assembly, 
and  seems  to  have  received  a  salary  from  the  magistrates. 
One  of  the  earliest,  and  probably  the  earliest,  produc- 
tions of  the  Glasgow  press  is  The  protestation  of  the 
Generall  Assemblie  of  the  church  of  Scotlaiid,  and  of  the 
noblemen,  barons,  gentlemen,  burrowes,  ministers,  and 
commons ;  subscribers  of  the  covenant,  lately  renewed, 
made  in  the  high  kirk,  and  at  the  mercate  crosse  of  Glas- 
gow, the  28,  and  29,  of  November,  1638.  Printed  at 
Glasgow  by  George  Anderson  in  the  yeare  of  grace  1638. 
Anderson  died  in  or  about  1648,  and  his  heirs  gave  up 
the  Glasgow  business  and  returned  to  Edinburgh,  where 
they  printed  from  1649  to  1652,  after  which  the  business 
was  carried  on  by  a  son  till  1656.  In  that  year  the 
Glasgow  Town  Council,  anxious  again  to  have  a  print- 
ing press  in  their  midst,  made  a  proposal  to  young 
Andrew  Anderson  that  he  should  come  to  Glasgow, 
off'ering  him  at  the  same  time  the  yearly  subsidy  of  100 
merks  that  had  formerly  been  paid  to  his  fatlier,  and 
this  off'er  was  accepted.  Anderson  remained  for  a  time, 
but  he  does  not  seem  to  have  been  kept  very  busy,  or 
to  have  published  much  of  importauce,  and  in  1661 
he  returned  to  Edinburgh.  In  the  same  year  Robert 
Sanders  became  the  burgh  printer,  with  an  annual 
allowance  of  £40  Scots,  in  return  for  which  the  council 

Erinting  was  to  be  done  without  payment.  In  virtue  of 
is  appointment  he  used  the  city  arms  on  many  of  his 
title  pages  ;  and  he  seems,  in  spite  of  the  annoyance  he 
received  from  his  predecessor  Anderson,  to  have  done  a 
good  business,  and  published  a  large  number  of  works. 
In  1666  he  printed  an  edition  of  the  New  Testament, 
and  in  1667  he  began  the  issue  of  Glasgow  almanacs. 
In  1671  he  was  engaged  on  another  edition  of  the  New 
Testament,  when  Anderson,  who  had  been  appointed 
the  king's  sole  printer  for  Scotland,  induced  his  men  to 
desert  him,  and  set  up  the  claim  to  be  the  sole  person 
in  Scotland  who  was  entitled  to  produce  the  New  Testa- 
ment. This  led  to  an  appeal  to  the  Privy  Council,  who 
decided  that  any  printer  in  Scotland  was  entitled  to  do 
what  Sanders  had  done.  A  subsequent  complaint  by 
Anderson's  heirs  in  1680  against  Sanders,  to  the  effect 
that  he  had  broken  the  privilege  by  selling  bibles  im- 
ported from  Holland,  and  had  reprinted  several  works 
in  divinity,  led  to  his  being  ordained  to  give  up  to  them 
the  books  complained  of ;  but  this  caused  him  to  enter 
into  negotiations  for  a  purchase  of  a  share  in  the  royal 
patent,  and  thereafter  he  brought  workmen  and  materials 
from  Holland,  and  executed  many  books.  He  died  about 
1696,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  son  Robert,  who  pub- 
lished a  number  of  works.  In  1718  type-making  was 
introduced  into  Glasgow  by  James  Duncan ;  but  the 
types,  which  were  used  for  the  first  edition  of  M'Ure, 
Hi 


GLASGO"Wr 

were  cut  by  himself,  and  were  rough  and  ill-shaped. 
From  the  beginning  of  the  18th  century,  up  till  about 
1740,  printing  in  Glasgow  was  at  a  low  elab,  though 
there  were  still  town's  printers,  who,  however,  do  not 
seem  to  have  been  very  good,  for  complaints  were  made 
that  to  get  anything  rightly  printed  the  work  had  to  be 
sent  to  Edinburgh.  "There  was  a  printer  to  the  Uni- 
versity, but  he  seems  to  have  been  little  better  than  his 
neighbours.  About  1740  Robert  Urie  &  Co.  did  some 
better  work,  their  most  noteworthy  productions  being 
an  edition  of  the  Spectator  and  a  Greek  New  Testament ; 
and  the  following  year,  1741,  saw  the  establishment,  as 
a  bookseller,  of  Robert  Foulis,  who,  along  with  his 
brother  Andrew,  was  to  give  Glasgow  printing  a  character 
somewhat  different  from  its  former  one,  and  to  win 
for  the  firm  the  name  of  '  the  Elzevirs  of  Scotland. ' 
Their  types  were  also  made  in  Glasgow  by  Messrs 
Wilson  &  Bain.  In  1743  Robert  Foulis  was  appointed 
printer  to  the  University,  and  under  its  patronage  some 
of  the  finest  productions  of  the  Foulis  press  were  issued. 
Of  these  we  may  notice  Demetrius  Phalereits  de  Elocutione 
(1743)  the  first  Greek  book  printed  in  Glasgow,  the  so- 
called  'immaculate'  edition  of  Horace  (1744),  and  the 
folio  editions  of  the  Iliad  and  Odyssey  (1747),  the  Iliad 
being  considered  one  of  the  finest  specimens  of  printing  in 
existence.  The  brothers  also  founded  a  fine  art  academy, 
but  they  unfortunately  did  not  prosper,  for  the  academy 
was  broken  up  in  1770,  and  in  1776  the  insolvent  estate 
was  wound  up  by  Robert  Chapman,  printer,  and  James 
Duncan,  printer,  both  the  brothers  Foulis  being  then 
dead.  Andrew  left  a  son  and  namesake,  who  was  also  a 
printer,  and  who  published,  in  1788,  a  fine  edition  of  the 
Gentle  Shepherd,  with  aquatint  engravings  by  David 
Allan.  Among  the  printers  of  the  latter  part  of  the 
18th  century  also  was  Dugald  Graham  the  pedlar,  whose 
rhyming  narrative  of  the  events  that  occurred  during 
the  Rebellion  of  1745  is  of  some  importance.  From 
Graham's  press  came  the  Glasgow  chap  books,  now  so 
highly  prized,  of  many  of  which  he  was  himself  the 
author.  He  abandoned  printing  in  1770  and  became 
city  bellman.  During  the  present  century  printing  has 
gone  on  thriving  and  increasing  like  other  industries, 
and  Mr  Macgeorge's  recent  work  on  Old  Glasgow  is  a 
sign  that  good  printing  can  still  be  done  in  the  city. 
There  are  now  (1882)  223  printing  firms  and  83  pub- 
lishing firms  within  the  city,  exclusive  of  newspaper 
offices.  The  first  Glasgow  Directory  was  published  in 
1783.  The  population  was  classified  into  town  councU, 
ministers,  numbering  18,  professors,  faculty  of  pro- 
curators, officers  of  excise,  physicians,  numbering  16, 
midwives,  numbering  10,  messengers-at-arms,  number- 
ing 11,  and  then  merchants,  manufacturers,  gi'ocers, 
vintners,  lint-hecklers,  hucksters,  etc.,  all  together. 
The  sheriff-substitute  lived  in  the  Saltmarket,  the  town- 
clerk  in  the  Gallowgate.  It  is  a  small  volume,  and  the 
compiler  offers  many  apologies  for  its  imperfections. 
Even  the  second  directory,  published  in  1790,  was  only 
a  small  crown  12mo  of  82  pages,  while  the  modern 
directory  is  a  dense  8vo  volume  of  1149  pages,  with  an 
appendix  of  135  pages. 

The  citizens  seem  to  have  become  desirous  of  keeping 
pace  with  the  events  of  the  outer  world,  as  early  as  1657, 
for  we  find  that  in  that  year  the  council  appointed 
'  Johne  Flyming  to  wryt  to  his  man  quha  lyues  at  Lon- 
don to  send  horn  for  the  tonnes  use  weiklie  ane  diurnal,' 
and  twenty  years  after  a  Colonel  '  Walter  AVhytfoord ' 
undertook  to  provide  coffee  for  the  lieges,  and  to  supply 
newspapers  as  well ;  but  it  was  not  till  1715  that  Glas- 
gow could  boast  of  a  newspaper  of  its  own.  In  the  end 
of  that  year  a  paper  called  the  Glasgow  Courant  was 
published  retail  at  three  halfpence,  but  wholesale  at  one 
penny  ;  and  an  effort  was  made  to  get  local  news  and  a 
shipping  list,  by  appealing  to  gentlemen  in  various  parts 
to  send  news,  and  particularly  at  shipping  ports  of 
ships  arriving  and  departing.  At  the  fourth  number 
the  name  was  changed  to  the  fVest  Country  Intelligence. 
It  was  published  on  Tuesdays,  Thursdays,  and  Satur- 
days, and  was  a  small  quarto  twelve-page  paper  ;  but  it 
does  not  seem  to  have  succeeded,  for  it  stopped  after 


GLASGOW 

about  67  numliers  had  been  published,  and  for  a  quarter 
of  a  century  afterwards  Glasgow  was  without  a  news- 

Eaper.  In  1741  the  Glasgoio  Journal  appeared,  edited 
y  Andrew  Stalker,  but  during  the  rebellion  Mr  Stalker's 
courage  failed,  and  he  retired  because  he  could  not  with 
safety  publish  to  please  the  generality  of  his  readers ; 
but  the  paper  was  continued  by  Urie,  the  printer,  and 
did  not  become  extinct  till  about  1846.  The  year  1745 
witnessed  the  appearance  of  the  second  Glasgow  Couraut, 
in  which  advertisements  made  a  considerable  figure ;  the 
paper  lived  for  only  a  very  short  time.  The  CJironicle 
was  commenced  in  1766,  the  Mercury  in  1775,  and  the 
Advertiser  in  1783.  In  ISOl  the  Advertiser  had  its  name 
changed  to  the  Herald  and  Advertiser,  which  a  few  years 
later  was  again  changed  to  the  Herald,  and  from  1805  to 
1810  the  proprietors  also  published  the  Clyde  Commercial 
Advertiser.  In  1807  a  weekly  called  the  Caledonia  was 
established,  and  in  1808  it  became  a  bi-weekly  with  the 
name  of  the  Western  Star.  Several  attempts  were 
also  made  to  establish  other  papers,  but  none  of  them 
was  permanently  successful,  though  theScformcrs'  Gazette 
had  a  lengthened  existence.  The  Glasgow  Citizen  was 
established  in  1842,  and  has  still  a  large  circulation,  but 
has  been,  since  1864,  broken  up  into  two  papers — the 
one  an  evening  halfpenny  paper,  the  Evening  Citizen ; 
the  other  a  weekly  literary  halfpenny  paper,  the  Weekly 
Citizen.  The  North  British  Daily  Mail  (1847)  was  the 
first  daily  newspaper  in  Scotland ;  its  principles  are 
Radical.  The  Evening  Citizen  was  the  first  Glasgow 
evening  paper.  The  Herald  became  a  daily  paper  of 
moderate  Liberal  opinions  in  1859.  The  Glasgow  News 
(Conservative)  was  established  in  1873,  while  some  years 
Ijefore  a  second  evening  paper,  the  Evening  Star,  had 
come  into  existence.  It  has  since  become  the  Evening 
News  and  Star.  A  comic  weekly  called  the  Bailie  was 
started  in  1872,  and  still  flourishes  ;  and  a  third  even- 
ing paper,  the  Evening  Times,  was  started  in  1876. 

The  papers  at  present  published  in  Glasgow  are  the 
Glasgoio  Herald  (daily).  North  British  Daily  Mail 
(daily),  Glasgow  News  (daily),  Evening  Citizen  (daily 
afternoon).  Evening  News  and  Star  (daily  afternoon). 
Evening  Times  (daily  afternoon),  the  Christian  Herald 
{every  Wednesday),  the  Christian  Leader  (every  Thurs- 
day), the  Christian  Neics  (every  Saturday),  the  Glasgoio 
Weekly  Herald  (every  Friday),  the  Glasgow  Weekly 
Mail  (every  Friday),  the  Glasgow  Weekly  Citizen  (every 
Friday),  the  League  Journal  (every  Saturday),  the  Mace 
(weekly),  the  Mercantile  Advertiser  and  Shipping  Gazette 
(every  Tuesday  and  Friday),  the  Military  Record  and 
Volunteer  News  (weekly),  the  Property  Circular  (every 
Tuesday),  Quiz  (every  Thirrsday),  Scottish  Freemason 
(fortnightly),  the  Bailie  (every  Wednesday),  the  Clyde 
Bill  of  Entry  (every  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday), 
the  Freemason  (every  Saturday),  the  National  Adver- 
tising List  (every  Saturday),  and  the  National  Trade 
Guardian  (every  Wednesday).  The  following  magazines, 
mostly  monthlies,  are  also  published  in  Glasgow  : — the 
Adviser,  the  Amateur,  the  Children's  Messenger,  the 
Cycling  Mercury,  the  Dew  Drop,  the  Easy  Guide,  tlie 
Glasgow  University  3Iagazine,  the  Glasgow  Young  Men's 
Christian  Magazine,  the  Good  Templar,  the  Leather 
Trader,  the  Masonic  Magaziiie,  the  Mercantile  Age,  the 
Sabbath  School  Magazine,  the  Social  Reformer,  the  Scot- 
tish Sanitary  Journal,  the  Rjf armed  Presbyterian  Wit- 
1USS,  besides  Murray's,  Eraser's,  and  the  ABC  Time 
Tables,  and  Henderson's  Conveyance  Guide.  Quarterly 
is  the  Evangelical  Repository,  while  the  annual  publica- 
cations  are  the  Post  Office  Directory,  the  Glasgow  Al- 
inanac,  and  the  Scottish  Masonic  Calendar. 

Educational  InstitiUions — The  University. — The  Uni- 
versity, the  second  in  Scotland,  was,  as  we  have  already 
seen,  founded  in  1450,  and  opened  in  the  following 
j'ear  with  a  chancellor,  rector,  and  masters  and  doctors 
in  the  four  faculties.  There  were  at  first  no  buildings, 
but  all  the  meetings  were,  by  permission  of  the  bishop, 
held  in  the  crypt  of  the  cathedral,  and  ultimately  the 
teaching  was  transferred  to  a  house  belonging  to  the 
parson  of  Luss,  which  stood  on  the  S  side  of  the  Rotten- 
row  near  the  High  Street,  and  was  afterwards  known  as 


GLASGOW 

'the  auld  Pedagogy."  Though  this  building  survived 
till  the  middle  of  "the  present  century,  the  University 
did  not  long  remain  in  it.  Probably  it  became  too 
small  for  the  increasing  number  of  students,  for  in 
1458  a  piece  of  land  was  rented  on  the  E  side  of  High 
Street  for  the  erection  of  a  new  Pedagogy.  The  endow- 
ment was,  however,  so  poor  that  the  governing  body 
could  not  provide  money  to  pay  for  their  accommoda- 
tion, and  this  having  been  brought  under  the  notice  of 
the  proprietor  of  the  new  site,  James,  first  Lord  Hamil- 
ton, he  in  1459  made  them  a  present  of  the  ground — on 
which  afterwards  the  old  University  buildings,  now  part 
of  the  College  Station,  were  erected — together  with  four 
acres  of  land  in  the  Dow  Hill  or  Dove  Hill,  adjoining 
the  Molendinar  Burn,  on  condition  that  twice  every 
day  the  regents  and  students  should  pray  for  Lord 
Hamilton's  soul,  and  also  that  of  his  wife  Euphemia ; 
and  that,  if  a  chapel  were  built  in  the  college,  the 
regents  and  students  should  therein  on  their  bended 
knees  sing  an  ave  to  the  Virgin,  mth  a  collect  and  remem- 
brance for  the  same  persons.  No  buildings  probably 
were  erected  on  this  ground ;  but  the  existing  houses 
having  been  adapted  as  well  as  possible  for  their  new 
purpose,  the  University  migrated  thither  in  1465.  In 
1475  the  grounds  were  still  farther  enlarged  by  the 
addition  of  land  on  the  N  belonging  to  Sir  Thomas 
Arthurlie,  and  bequeathed  by  him  to  the  University. 
On  the  front  portion  of  this,  houses  were  afterwards 
erected  for  the  professors.  The  Reformation  almost 
ruined  the  struggling  home  of  learning,  for  as  it  was, 
like  all  the  universities  of  the  time,  chiefly  supported 
by,  and  an  instrument  of,  the  Church,  the  students 
disappeared  when  the  churchmen  fled.  In  1563  Queen 
Mary  made  over  to  it  some  of  the  confiscated  lands  of 
the  Church,  being  moved  thereto,  as  the  charter  nar- 
rates, by  the  half-finished  condition  of  the  buildings, 
and  the  fact  that  all  provision  for  the  poor  bursars  and 
masters  had  ceased,  so  that  the  whole  place  had  rather 
the  appearance  of  the  decay  of  a  university  than  an 
established  foundation.  By  this  charter  five  bursaries 
were  founded  for  poor  youths,  and  the  manse  and 
'kirk-room'  of  the  Black  Friars,  with  13  acres  of  land 
in  the  Dove  Hill  and  certain  rents  tliat  liad  belonged  to 
the  friars,  were  granted  for  the  maintenance  of  the 
masters.  Notwithstanding  this,  however,  the  Univer- 
sity had  in  1571  only  about  a  dozen  students  and  an 
income  of  about  £25  sterling,  and  in  that  j'ear  the 
magistrates,  taking  its  state  into  pitiful  consideration, 
granted  it  some  of  the  Church  lands  which  they  had 
received  at  the  Reformation,  a  grant  which  was  con- 
firmed by  parliament.  It  does  not  seem  to  have  been 
popular  among  the  common  people,  for  we  find  mention 
of  a  charge  made  against  three  Glasgow  bailies  named 
Colin  Campbell,  William  Heygate,  and  Archibald  Hey- 
gate,  who  were  alleged  to  have  been  ringleaders  of  a 
mob  that  burst  into  the  University  and  shed  the  blood 
of  several  of  the  students  who  successfully  resisted  their 
attempts  to  set  the  building  on  fire.  In  1574  Andrew 
Melville  became  principal,  and  tried  to  throw  some  new 
spirit  into  matters  ;  but  nothing  could  be  done  without 
money,  so  the  Regent  Morton,  stirred  up  by  him,  in  1577 
advised  King  James  VI.,  then  in  his  minority,  to  issue  a 
new  deed  of  erection,  and  to  make  a  considerable  grant 
in  aid  of  the  college  revenue,  consisting  of  the  tithes, 
manse,  glebe,  and  church  lands  of  the  rectory  and 
vicarage  of  the  parish  of  Govan.  The  new  regulations 
following  on  the  new  constitution  provided  that  the 
students  were  to  use  Latin  as  their  ordinary  language, 
and  were  to  rise  at  five  in  the  morning  and  be  in  bed  at 
a  quarter-past  nine.  They  were  allowed  to  play  golf 
and  to  practise  archery  and  dramatic  representations, 
but  not  to  play  with  cards  or  dice  or  at  billiards,  nor 
were  they  to  bathe.  Some  buildings  are  said  to  have 
been  erected  in  1593,  but  nothing  is  known  of  them, 
and  the  old  college  buildings,  almost  entirely  demolished 
to  make  way  for  the  College  station,  were  not  erected 
till  1630.  Sleanwhile  private  individuals  had  been  in- 
creasing the  funds  of  the  authorities.  In  1610  one  of 
the  regents,  named  Boyd,   bequeathed  1000  raerks  to 

145 


GLASGOW 


"GLASGOW 


aid  in  the  erection  of  buildings;  and  in  1617  a  large 
bequest  was  also  made  by  a  citizen  named  Wilson  for 
the  same  purpose,  while  Archbishop  Law  increased  the 
revenues,  and  presented  many  books  to  the  library.  In 
1626  Dr  John  Strang  became  principal,  and  by  his 
exertions  considerable  funds  were  obtained  in  aid  of  the 
building  fund.  The  subscriptions  were  mostly  from  the 
nobUity  and  gentry  in  the  W,  and  amounted  to  the  sum 
— ^for  those  days  a  very  large  one — of  £2000  sterling. 
There  was  a  contribution  of  £200  promised  by  King 
Charles  L,  and,  curiously  enough,  the  sum  was  paid  by 
Oliver  Cromwell  in  1654,  the  Protector  further  granting 
£500  on  his  own  behalf.  The  buildings  were  begun  in 
1632,  and  carried  on  as  the  funds  permitted,  work  never 
being  stopped  altogether,  though  sometimes  it  proceeded 
but  slowly.  Some  thought  the  structure  was  on  too 
magnificent  a  scale,  and,  notwithstanding  the  extra 
money  obtained  from  the  grant  by  Cromwell  of  the 
revenues  of  the  bishopric  of  Galloway,  and  a  further 
sum  of  200  merks  yearly  from  the  customs  of  the  city, 
the  governing  body  found  themselves  by-and-by  over 
15,000  merks  (more  than  £1300)  in  debt.  The  old 
buildings  were  Jacobean  in  style,  and  before  the  Union 
Railway  Company  took  possession  they  showed  three 
quadrangular  courts,  the  upper  stories  being  reached  by 
staircases  with  massive  stone  balustrades.  The  front 
was  305  feet  long  :  the  grand  archway  was  surmounted 
by  a  stone  balcony  supported  on  corbels,  and  the  upper 
story  had  dormer  windows  with  carved  pediments.  Over 
the  entrance  were  the  royal  arms  of  the  time  of  Charles  IL 
The  first  quadrangle  was  all  old,  and  a  stone  staircase 
in  one  of  the  corners  led  up  to  a  large  panelled  hall 
used  for  business  meetings,  and  containing  a  few  por- 
traits. The  second  quadrangle  was  entered  by  an  arch- 
way beneath  the  steeple,  which  was  148  feet  high,  and 
the  buildings  in  it  j^resented  a  somewhat  incongruous 
mixture  of  ancient  and  modern.  The  steeple  was  not  a 
very  elegant  structure,  but  some  interest  attached  to 
the  lightning  conductor,  which  was  erected  in  1772 
under  the  auspices  of  the  famous  Benjamin  Franklin. 
The  third  quadrangle  contained  the  library  and  one  or 
two  class-rooms,  but  the  greater  portion  of  it  was  merely 
separated  from  the  college  park  by  railings.  Standing 
apart  in  it  was  the  building  containing  the  Hunterian 
Museum,  a  classical  structure  erected  in  1804,  and 
adorned  in  front  ^vith  a  hexastyle  Doric  portico.  Be- 
sides these  three  quadrangles,  there  was  at  the  N  side, 
■with  a  separate  entrance  from  High  Street,  a  fourth  con- 
taining thirteen  dwelling-houses  for  professors.  The 
college  park  spread  away  to  the  E,  with  pleasant  walks 
shaded  with  trees.  It  was  used  for  the  recreation  of 
the  students,  and  is  the  spot  selected  by  Sir  Walter 
Scott  in  Eoh  Roy  as  the  scene  of  the  duel  between 
Francis  and  Eashleigh  Osbaldistone.  Of  the  build- 
ings just  mentioned  there  had  been  erected,  between 
1632  and  1660,  the  inner  court,  the  steeple,  three 
professors'  houses — for  the  principal  and  the  two 
divinity  professors — and  a  portion  of  the  W  front, 
towards  the  roofing  of  which  the  town  council  con- 
tributed £2000  Scots.  The  number  of  students  was 
considerable,  and  their  intellectual  wants  were  attended 
to  by  a  principal,  eight  professors,  and  a  librarian.  The 
Restoration  brought  with  it  fresh  troubles  for  Glasgow 
University,  for  the  re-introduction  of  Episcopacy 
brought  w'ith  it  the  loss  of  the  revenues  granted  by 
Cromwell,  and  the  debt  contracted  in  the  building 
operations  proved  such  a  heavy  burden  that  three  out 
of  the  eight  professorships  had  to  be  abolished  and  the 
emoluments  of  the  five  who  were  left  considerably 
reduced.  From  1660  onwards  the  University  continued 
to  receive  many  benefactions,  but  most  of  them  took 
the  form  of  foundations  of  new  bursaries,  the  most  im- 
portant being  the  foundation  of  the  valuable  Snell  Ex- 
hibitions. This  took  place  in  1677,  when  John  Snell  of 
Uffeton,  a  Scotchman  and  an  alumnus  of  Glasgow, 
bequeathed  the  funds  arising  from  an  estate  in  Warwick- 
shire, for  the  education  of  Glasgow  students  at  Oxford, 
and  students  still  go  from  Glasgow  to  O.xford  every  year 
Ji.olding  Snell  Exhibitions.  The  pious  founder  is  said 
146 


to  have  been  more  anxious  to  encourage  the  spread  ot 
Episcopacy  than  the  cause  of  learning,  and  to  have 
thouglit  that  an  Oxford  education  was  an  excellent 
thing  for  his  purpose.  The  foundation  is  at  present 
worth  £110  a  year  to  each  of  ten  exhibitioners.  In 
1693  the  University  was,  in  common  with  all  the  other 
Scottish  Universities,  at  length  aided  once  more  by  a 
grant  of  £300  a  year,  given  by  government  from  the 
confiscated  bishoij's  rents,  and  from  this  time  till  now 
its  progi'ess  has  been  one  of  uninterrupted  improvement 
and  success.  In  the  beginning  of  the  18th  century  the 
teaching  staff  consisted  of  a  principal  and  seven  pro- 
fessors, while  there  were  about  400  students ;  but  by 
1720  the  number  of  professors  had  increased  to  twelve 
— the  chair  of  Oriental  Languages  having  been  founded 
in  1709,  that  of  Physic  (a  revival  of  a  chair  instituted 
in  1637,  but  long  suppressed  from  want  of  revenue) 
in  1713,  that  of  Civil  Law  and  the  Law  of  Scotland 
in  1713,  that  of  Anatomy  in  1718,  and  that  of  Ecclesi- 
astical History  in  1720.  About  1720,  steps  were  also 
taken  for  the  ei-ection  of  houses  for  the  other  pro- 
fessors in  addition  to  those  formerly  mentioned.  A 
lectureship  on  Chemistry  was  founded  by  the  celebrated 
Dr  Cullen  in  1746,  and  the  chair  of  Astronomy  was 
founded  in  1760,  and  an  observatory  in  connection  with 
it  was  erected  in  the  college  garden  about  the  year  1790. 
The  last  of  the  buildings  on  the  old  site  were  erected 
about  1812. 

From  the  fii-st  foundation  of  the  University  down  to 
the  18th  century  many  of  the  students  resided  within 
the  college,  but  the  students  increasing  more  rapidly 
than  the  accommodation,  a  number  of  them  began,  as 
early  as  the  15th  century,  to  live  outside.  In  the  sub- 
scriptions for  the  new  buildings,  in  the  beginning  of  the 
17th  century,  some  of  the  contributions  had  the  condition 
attached  that  certain  accommodation  was  to  be  provided 
for  the  use  of  the  donor's  family,  and,  if  none  of  them 
attended,  it  was  to  be  at  the  disposal  of  the  faculty.  Up 
till  1712  no  charge  seems  to  have  been  made  for  the 
rooms,  but  from  that  time  onward  a  charge  was  made 
of  from  4s.  to  10s.  a  room,  according  to  the  situation. 
Dr  Carlyle  of  Inveresk  says  in  his  Autobiography  that 
when  he  attended  the  college  in  1743  he  furnished  his 
room  himself,  and  one  of  the  college  servants  lit  his  fire 
and  made  his  bed,  while  '  a  maid  from  the  landlady 
who  furnislied  the  room  came  once  a  fortnight  with 
clean  linens.'  The  beginning  of  the  19th  century  saw 
considerable  additions  again  made  to  the  teaching  staff, 
no  less  than  five  new  chairs,  all  endowed  by  the  crown, 
being  added  between  1800  and  1820.  These  were  the 
chair  of  Natural  History,  founded  by  George  III.  in 
1807  ;  that  of  Surgery  by  the  crown  in  1S15  ;  that  of 
Midwifery  by  the  crown  in  the  same  year  ;  the  lecture- 
ship in  chemistry  was  erected  into  a  professorship  by 
the  crown  in  1817 ;  and  the  chair  of  Botany  was 
founded  by  the  crown  in  1818  ;  while  in  1820  the  num- 
ber of  students  had  increased  to  nearly  1000.  Between 
1820  and  1840  four  new  chah's  were  again  added — 
Materia  Medica  in  1831,  Institutes  of  Medicine  and 
Forensic  Medicine,  both  in  1S39,  and  Civil  Engineering 
in  1840.  The  old  buildings  were  in  1860  condemned 
by  the  Executive  University  Commission  appointed  in 
1S5S,  and  it  became  necessary  to  look  out  for  a  site  for 
a  new  erection.  The  University  authorities  had  long 
recognised  the  unsuitable  nature  of  the  buildings,  and 
been  desirous  of  a  change,  and  in  1846  they  had  even 
obtained  an  Act  of  Parliament  authorising  their  sale  and 
the  erection  of  a  new  university  on  a  site  at  Woodlands, 
but  nothing  had  been  done.  Stirred  now  to  fresh  efforts, 
they,  in  1864,  sold  their  old  premises  to  the  City  of  Glas- 
gow Union  Railway  Company,  who  have  now  erected  on 
the  site  the  College  station,  into  which  the  front  of  the 
old  University  and  portions  of  the  first  and  second 
quadrangles  have  been  incorporated,  while  the  College 
Green  is  now  covered  by  a  network  of  rails.  In  thu 
same  year  they  purchased,  on  the  W  bank  of  the  Kelvin 
to  the  S  of  Hillhead,  the  lands  of  Gilmorehill,  Donalds- 
hill,  and  the  lands  of  Clayslaps — the  latter  being  for  the 
erection  of  a  hospital — for  a  total  sum  of  £98,400 — 


GLASGOW 

there  being  also  an  understanding,  since  carried  out,  that 
part  of  Clayslaps  should  be  acquired  by  the  corporation 
to  be  added  to  Kelvingrove  Park.  To  pay  for  this  and  to 
erect  their  buildings,  the  University  had  a  total  sum  of 
£138,900,  consisting  of  £100,000  received  from  the  rail- 
way company  for  the  old  premises,  £17,500  the  principal 
sum  and  interest  obtained  from  the  Monkland  Junctiaa 
Company  in  1846  for  breach  of  bargain,  and  £21,400 
promised  by  government  on  condition  that  a  further 
sum  of  £24,000  be  raised  by  public  subscription  for  the 
erection  of  a  hospital  in  connection  with  the  University 
Medical  School.  With  this  sum  it  would  have  been 
possible  to  erect  buildings,  but  '  of  the  plainest  design 
and  on  a  scale  quite  inadequate  to  provide  for  the  future 
extension  of  the  University,'  so  it  was  resolved  to  at- 
tempt something  more,  and  the  preparation  of  plans 
for  a  building  on  a  very  extensive  scale  was  entrusted 
to  the  late  eminent  architect.  Sir  George  Gilbert  Scott, 
■who  produced  a  maguilicent  design  in  the  domestic 
Early  English  style  with  Scoto-Flemish  features  of  later 
date.  The  carrying  out  of  these  would,  it  was  esti- 
mated, cost  nearly  half  a  million  of  money,  and  so  well 
■was  the  demc^nd  for  the  extra  sum  required  responded  to, 
that  before  the  end  of  1868  £130,000  had  been  raised 
by  public  subscription — a  sum  since  increased  to 
£165,924  after  deduction  of  £30,000  allocated  to  the 
Western  Infirmary,  while  the  government  grant  had 
been  increased  to  £120,000.  Meanwhile  operations  had 
been  begun  on  2  June  1866,  when  Professor  Allen 
Thomson,  chairman  of  the  buildiug  committee,  cut  the 
first  turf.  The  foundation-stone  was  laid  on  8  Oct. 
1868  by  the  Prince  of  Wales,  amid  great  rejoicings,  and 
by  the  beginning  of  the  winter  session  of  1870-71  part 
of  the  buildings  ■was  ready  for  occupation.  They  were 
formally  opened  on  7  Nov.  1870  with  a  brilliant  cere- 
monial. They  advanced  still  further  towards  completion 
in  1871  and  1872,  but  were  still  so  far  incomplete  in 
1873  that,  while  £415,000  had  then  been  expended  on 
them,  a  further  sum  of  nearly  £100,000  more  was  re- 
quired for  their  completion.  Since  then  operations 
have  lagged  considerably  from  want  of  funds,  but  one 
notable  feature  has  been  added.  In  1877  the  Marquis 
of  Bute  offered  to  build  at  his  own  expense  and  present 
to  the  University  the  handsome  common  hall  included 
in  Sir  George  Gilbert  Scott's  design.  It  is  now  fast 
approaching  completion,  and  forms  a  magnificent  dona- 
tion, for  it  has  cost  between  fifty  and  sixty  thousand 
pounds,  the  original  estimate  being  £57,000. 

The  buildings,  which  have  a  magnificent  and  com- 
manding position,  form  an  imposing  rectangular  pile, 
532  feet  in  length  from  E  to  W,  and  295  feet  in  breadth 
from  N  to  S.  The  common  hall,  running  across  the 
centre  of  the  rectangle  from  N  to  S,  divides  the  inner 
open  space  into  two  quadrangles,  of  which  the  eastern 
is  entirely  surrounded  by  buildings,  but  the  western  has 
the  AV  side  clear,  and  opens  on  to  a  grass  plot,  round 
the  N,  S,  and  W  sides  of  which  are  residences  for  the 
professors  known  as  college  professors,  i.e.,  all  those 
holding  chairs  founded  before  1800.  These  are  in  a 
style  harmonising  with  the  University  buildings.  The 
main  front  is  to  the  S,  and  has  a  symmetrical  outline. 
In  the  centre  is  a  grand  tower  150  feet  high,  and  in- 
tended to  terminate,  when  finished,  in  a  spire  rising  to 
the  height  also  of  150  feet.  The  wings,  extending  from 
this  on  both  sides,  terminate  to  the  E  and  W  in  square 
towers.  The  corner  towers  are  four  stories  high,  the 
rest  of  the  front  is  three  stories.  In  the  base  of  the 
centre  tower,  ■which  rises  to  a  height  of  six  stories,  is 
the  main  entrance,  with  a  deeply  moulded  Gothic  arch, 
leading  to  a  riclily  groined  vestibule,  and  two  minor 
entrances  of  similar  design,  and  leading  to  the  eastern 
and  western  quadrangles  respectively,  are  midway 
between  the  central  and  side  towers.  Over  the  central 
arch  the  front  of  the  tower  is  broken  by  fine  windows 
and  balconies,  and  at  the  corners  of  the  top  are  round 
turrets  supported  on  corbelling.  These  are,  when 
finished,  to  be  surmounted  by  small  spires.  The 
eastern  elevation  is  plainer.  The  northern  elevation, 
towards   University  Avenue,   has  its  long  many-^win- 


GLASGOW 

dowcd  outline  broken  by  a  projecting  portion,  with  a 
beautiful  semi-circular  bay,  and  coutams  two  great 
sections  for  respectively  the  University  Library  and  tlie 
Hunterian  Museum,  each  measuring  129  feet  in  length, 
60  in  breadth,  and  100  in  height.  The  Common  Hall 
extends  from  the  rear  of  the  centre  of  the  S  elevation 
to  the  front  of  the  centre  of  the  N  block,  and  has  a  base- 
ment story  of  cloisters  with  groined  roof.  Above  is  the 
hall  proper,  115  feet  long  by  70  wide  and  62  high, 
with  a  high  pitched  roof.  Exclusive  of  hall,  library,  and 
museum,  there  are  98  rooms,  each  chair  having  a  class- 
room and  retiring-room,  and,  wherever  necessary,  labora- 
tories and  rooms  for  apparatus  fitted  up  in  the  most  ap- 
proved manner.  The  heating  and  ventilation  are  carried 
out  by  means  of  novel  arrangements,  specially  devised 
by  the  scientific  professors,  currents  of  air  for  drawing 
off  the  air  being  produced  by  heated  flues,  while  the 
fresh  air  is  drawn  in  from  the  central  tower  and  driven 
by  means  of  steam  fans  over  hot  water  pipes  and  through 
tlie  buildings.  Nearly  2,000,000  cubic  feet  of  air  are 
passed  through  the  rooms  every  hour. 

The  University  Library  was  founded  in  the  15th 
century,  and  contains  an  extensive  and  valuable  collec- 
tion of  books  now  amounting  to  about  110,000  volumes, 
and  it  is  constantly  being  increased  by  donations  and 
by  books  purchased  with  the  treasury  grant  of  £707  per 
annum  as  compensation  for  the  loss  of  Stationers'  Hall 
privilege.  Among  the  contents  may  be  noted  a  MS. 
paraphrase  of  the  Bible  by  Zachary  Boyd.  The  Hun- 
terian Museum  passed  into  the  possession  of  Glasgow 
University  in  1783.  It  was  the  bequest  of  Dr  William 
Hunter,  an  alumnus  of  Glasgow,  who  had  acquired 
great  celebrity  and  a  large  practice  in  London,  and  who, 
at  his  death  in  1783,  bequeathed  his  magnificent 
anatomical  and  general  collection  to  his  alma  mater. 
The  first  building  for  it  at  the  old  University  was  erected 
in  1804,  and  it  ■n'as  opened  in  1808.  The  collection  was 
even  then  valued  at  £65,000,  and  now  it  is  worth  more 
than  double  that  sum.  The  library  of  12,000  volumes 
contains  many  rare  and  valuable  books  and  manuscripts, 
including  an  illuminated  MS.  Psalter  of  the  12th  century, 
a  MS.  of  Boethius  of  the  1 4th  century,  MSS.  of  a  breviary, 
of  ten  books  of  Livy,  and  of  a  French  translation  of  Boc- 
caccio of  the  15th  century.  The  series  of  coins  and 
medals  is  almost  unrivalled,  and  there  are  pictures  by 
Murillo,  Guido,  Rembrandt,  Rubens,  Kneller,  Correggio, 
Salvator  Rosa,  Sir  Joshua  Keyuolds,  Raeburn,  and  other 
artists  of  lesser  note,  as  well  as  good  engravings  by 
Strange  and  others.  There  is  a  noteworthy  collection 
of  Roman  altars  and  legionary  tablets.  The  cabinet  of 
medals  may  be  consulted  on  previous  notice  being  given, 
and  the  rest  of  the  collection  is  open  to  visitors  from 
11  to  3  o'clock  in  winter,  and  from  11  to  4  o'clock 
in  summer,  at  a  charge  of  6d. 

Previous  to  the  Universities  Act  of  1858  the  University 
had  two  governing  bodies,  viz.  : — (1.)  The  Senatus, 
which  consisted  of  the  rector,  the  dean,  the  principal, 
and  the  whole  of  the  professors,  who  conferred  degrees 
and  managed  the  affairs  of  the  librar}',  etc.  ;  (2.)  the 
Faculty,  which  consisted  of  the  principal  and  the  college 
professors,  i.e.,  all  the  professors  whose  chairs  were 
founded  before  the  present  century.  The  faculty  adminis- 
tered the  funds  ;  elected  occupants  to  the  eight  chairs, 
whose  patronage  was  vested  in  the  college  ;  presented  a 
minister  to  the  parish  of  Govan ;  and  made  appoint- 
ments to  certain  bursaries.  Besides  these  there  was  a 
C'oTtiitia — consisting  of  the  rector,  dean,  principal,  pro- 
fessors, and  matriculated  students  of  the  University — 
which  met  to  elect  and  admit  the  rector,  to  hear  the 
inaugural  addresses  of  the  principals  and  professors,  and 
to  promulgate  the  laws  of  the  University  ;  and  a  court 
called  th&  Jiirisdictio  Orclinaria,  consisting  of  the  princi- 
pal, the  professors  of  Greek,  Latin,  logic,  ethics,  and 
physics,  and  the  go^vned  students,  which  met  for  the 
purpose  of  exercising  discipline,  but  by  the  Universities 
Act  the  distinction  between  the  Senate  and  the  Faculty 
was  abolished,  and  the  University  Court  and  the 
General  Council  instituted.  The  University  Court  con- 
sists of  the  rector,  the  principal,  the  dean  of  faculties, 

147 


GLASGOW 

and  assessors  appointed  by  the  chancellor,  rector, 
general  council,  and  senatus  academicus.  It  acts  as  a 
court  of  appeal  and  supervision  for  the  senatus.  The 
General  Council  consists  of  the  chancellor,  the  mem- 
bers of  the  University  Court,  the  professors,  and  all 
graduates  of  the  University  who  have  been  registered  ; 
and  since  1881  this  registration  has  been  compulsory. 
The  officials  of  the  University  are  the  chancellor  (ap- 
pointed for  life  by  the  General  Council),  the  rector 
(appointed  for  three  years  by  the  matriculated  students), 
the  principal,  and  the  professors  of  the  four  faculties  of 
arts,  divinity,  law,  and  medicine.  There  are  now  ten  pro- 
fessorships, a  lectureship,  and  two  demonstratorships  in 
the  faculty  of  arts,  four  professorships  in  the  faculty  of 
divinity,  two  professorships  and  two  lectureships  in  the 
faculty  of  law,  and  twelve  professorships,  four  lecture- 
ships, and  a  demonstratorship  in  the  faculty  of  medicine. 
The  professorships,  etc. ,  with  the  dates  of  their  founda- 
tion, are  logic  and  rhetoric,  1577  ;  moral  philosophy, 
1577  ;  natural  philosophy,  1577  ;  Greek,  1581  ;  human- 
ity, previous  to  1637  ;  mathematics,  revived  in  1691 ; 
practical  astronomy,  1760  ;  civil  engineering  and  mech- 
anics, 1840  ;  English  language  and  literature,  1861  ; 
lectureship  in  naval  architecture  and  marine  engineer- 
ing, 1881  ;  Arnot  and  Thomson  demonstratorship  in 
experimental  physics,  1875 ;  Young  assistantship  in 
engineering,  1876;  divinity,  1640;  oriental  languages, 
1709 ;  ecclesiastical  history,  1716  ;  Biblical  criticism, 
1861  ;  law,  1713  ;  conveyancing,  1861  ;  lectureship  of 
public  law,  1878  ;  lectureship  of  constitutional  law  and 
history,  1878  ;  practice  of  medicine,  1637,  suppressed, 
but  revived  in  1713  ;  anatomy,  1718  ;  natural  history, 
1807  ;  surgery,  1815  ;  midwifery,  1815  ;  chemistry,  1817 
(superseding  a  lectureship  founded  in  1747) ;  botany, 
1818  ;  materia  medica,  1831  (superseding  a  lectureship 
founded  in  1766)  ;  institutes  of  medicine,  1839  ;  medical 
jurisprudence,  1839  ;  clinical  surgery,  1874  ;  clinical 
medicine,  1874 ;  Waltonian  medical  lectureship,  1788  ; 
lectureship  on  diseases  of  the  eye,  1828  ;  Honeyman- 
GiUespie  lectureship,  1876  ;  Muirhead  demonstratorship 
in  physiology,  1876.  There  is  also  a  lecturer  on  insanity. 
The  patronage  of  the  chairs  of  practical  astronomy,  civil 
engineering  and  mechanics,  English  language  and  litera- 
ture, ecclesiastical  history,  Biblical  criticism,  law,  prac- 
tice of  medicine,  anatomy,  natural  history,  surgery,  mid- 
wifery, chemistry,  botany,  materia  medica,  institutes  of 
medicine,  and  medical  jurisprudence  is  vested  in  the 
Crown ;  that  of  humanity,  Greek,  logic,  moral  philosophy, 
natural  phCosophy,  mathematics,  divinity,  oriental 
languages,  clinical  surgery,  and  clinical  medicine  in  the 
University  Court ;  and  that  of  conveyancing  in  the  dean 
and  councQ  of  the  Faculty  of  Procurators.  The  income 
of  the  University  is  derived  (1.)  from  teinds,  arising 
from  grants  by  James,  Archbishop  of  Glasgow  in  1657  ; 
by  James  VI.  in  1577  and  1618  ;  by  Charles  I.  in  1630  ; 
by  Charles  II.  in  1664  and  1670  ;  (2.)  from  feu-duties, 
etc.,  of  lands  granted  by  James,  Lord  Hamilton,  in 
1459  ;  William  and  Thomas  Arthurlie  1466  ;  Queen 
Mary,  1563  ;  of  the  lands,  etc.,  of  the  Friars  Preachers 
granted  by  Queen  Mary  in  1566  to  the  town  for  pious 
uses,  and  conveyed  by  the  town,  under  Act  of  Scottish 
parliament,  in  1572  to  the  College ;  and  from  some  other 
bequests  of  old  date  ;  (3. )  interest  on  investment  of  the 
surplus  rents  of  the  Archbishopric  of  Glasgow  from  1694 
to  1839.  (The  lease  of  the  Archbishopric  was  first 
granted  by  William  III.  in  1690  for  nineteen  years,  for 
payment  of  the  then  debts  of  the  University  and  other 
purposes,  and  was  renewed  by  successive  rulers  till  1825, 
when  £100  per  annum  from  this  source  was  added  to  the 
salary  of  the  Regius  professor  of  botany.  From  1825 
till  1839  £800  per  annum  was  still  allowed  for  general 
purposes,  but  then  ceased,  though  in  1841  it  was  applied 
to  the  provision  of  salaries  for  some  of  the  Crown  Chairs) ; 
and  (4.)  lastly,  from  the  interest  of  investments  of 
balances  from  year  to  year  in  favour  of  the  University. 
The  income  from  these  sources  for  1880-81,  was  £9313, 
8s.  8d.,  of  which  £1594,  18s.  4d.  was  paid  for  ministers' 
stipends,  and  £727,  12s.  2d.  for  taxes,  etc.,  leaving  a 
Bet  revenue  of  £6990,  ISs.  2d.,  of  which  £3718,  6s.  lOd. 
148 


GLASGOW 

was  paid  proportionally  for  salaries  of  principal  and  pro- 
fessors, leaving  a  balance  of  £3272,  lis.  4d.  to  be  trans- 
ferred to  the  general  University  fund.  The  latter,  in- 
clusive of  this  balance,  amounted  to  £18,682,  10s.  3d., 
and  the  expenditure  to  £17,255,  9s.  lid.,  leaving  a  sur- 
plus of  £1427,  Os.  4d.  The  annual  salaries  of  the 
principal  and  professors,  exclusive  of  class  fees,  which 
vary  from  three  guineas  to  one,  according  to  the  class, 
are  as  follows — the  principal  and  the  professors  of  logic, 
moral  philosophy,  natural  philosophy,  Greek,  humanity, 
mathematics,  divinity,  oriental  languages,  law,  practice 
of  medicine,  anatomy,  ecclesiastical  history,  and  practical 
astronomy,  having  also  each  an  official  residence  and  a 
small  allowance  for  taxes,  etc. : — principal,  £988, 15s.  Id. ; 
logic,  £286,  lis.  2d.  ;  moral  philosophy,  £301,  2s.  3d.  ; 
natural  philosophy,  £319,  6s.  8d.,  assistants,  £228, 
5s.  Id.,  class  expenses,  £100;  Greek,  £289,  9s.,  as- 
sistant, £100;  humanity,  £289,  8s.  lid.,  assistant, 
£100  ;  mathematics,  £312,  assistant,  £100  ;  astronomy, 
£298,  12s.  9d.  ;  civil  engineering,  £488,  14s.  9d.,  as- 
sistant, £147  ;  English  literature,  £200 ;  divinity,  £412, 
4s.  9d.  ;  oriental  languages,  £300 ;  ecclesiastical  history 
£340,  7s.  6d.  ;  Biblical  criticism,  £504,  10s.  8d.  ;  law, 
£310  ;  conveyancing,  £105  ;  medicine,  £270  ;  anatomy, 
£250,  class  expenses,  £200 ;  natural  history,  £209, 
10s.  lOd.  ;  surgery,  £100  ;  midwifery,  £100  ;  chemistry, 
£200,  assistants,  £200,  class  expenses,  £70  ;  botany, 
£229,  10s.  lOd.  ;  materia  medica,  £100,  assistant,  £25, 
class  expenses,  £50 ;  institutes  of  medicine,  £150,  as- 
sistant, £103,  14s.  5d.  ;  forensic  medicine,  £100,  as- 
sistants, £25,  class  expenses,  £35 ;  clinical  surgery, 
£107,  Os.  4d.  ;  clinical  medicine,  £107,  Os.  4d.  Con- 
nected with  the  University  there  are  bursaries  and  fel- 
lowships worth  nearly  £10,000  per  annum,  of  which 
£780  is  shared  with  the  other  Scottish  Universities,  and 
£1100  belongs  to  the  Snell  Exhibitions  at  Oxford;  of 
the  rest  £2280  per  annum  go  for  28  fellowships  or 
scholarships,  ranging  from  £20  to  £225  a  year,  while  in 
connection  with  the  Arts  classes  there  are  193  bursaries 
worth  about  £3356,  and  ranging  from  £6,  13s.  4d. 
to  £80 ;  with  divinity  36  bursaries,  worth  £844, 
and  ranging  from  £11  to  £40  ;  with  law  2  bursaries, 
worth  respectively  £25  and  £18  ;  with  medicine  14 
bursaries,  ranging  from  £15  to  £45 ;  with  any  faculty 
24,  worth  £445,  and  ranging  from  £5  to  £30  ;  with  arts 
and  divinity  14,  worth  £432,  and  ranging  from  £8  to 
£40  ;  with  arts  or  medicine  2  bursaries  of  £35  each ; 
with  arts,  or  law,  or  medicine,  2  bursaries  of  £16  each  ; 
with  divinity,  law,  or  medicine  6,  worth  £226,  and 
ranging  from  £11  to  £70.  There  are  also  30  important 
prizes  of  books,  gold  medals,  or  sums  of  money,  ranging 
from  £2,  10s.  to  £25.  The  winter  session  begins  in  the 
end  of  October  or  the  beginning  of  November,  and  ends 
near  the  close  of  April ;  the  summer  session  begins  early 
in  the  first  week  of  May,  and  ends  near  the  close  of  July. 
The  students  are  divided  into  togati  and  non-togati,  the 
former — attending  the  classes  of  logic,  Greek,  moral 
philosophy,  natm'al  philosophy,  and  humanity — wearing 
a  scarlet  gown,  while  the  others  do  not.  The  matricu- 
lated students  in  1881-82  were : — in  arts  1331,  in  divinity 
100,  in  law  211,  in  medicine  (including  summer  matricu- 
lations numbering  106)  624,  in  arts  and  medicine  25,  in 
arts  and  law  9,  in  arts  and  divinity  20,  a  total  of  2320, 
or  nearly  double  the  number  there  were  ten  years  ago 
before  the  new  buildings  were  opened.  For  the  election  of 
the  Lord  Rector  the  students  are  divided  into  four  groups 
or  nations,  according  to  their  places  of  birth.  The  natio 
Olottiana  consists  of  all  matriculated  students  bom 
within  the  county  of  Lanark  ;  the  natio  Transforthana 
consists  of  all  matriculated  students  born  within  any  of 
the  counties  of  Orkney  and  Shetland,  Caithness,  Suther- 
land, Ross,  Inverness,  Cromarty,  Nairn,  Moray,  Banff, 
Aberdeen,  Perth,  Forfar,  Kincardine,  Clackmannan, 
Fife,  Kinross,  Argyll,  Stirling,  and  Dumbarton  ,  the 
natio  Eothseiana  consists  of  all  matriculated  students 
born  within  the  counties  of  Bute,  Renfrew,  and  Ayr ; 
and  the  natio  Loudoniana  consists  of  all  matriculated 
students  not  included  in  any  of  the  other  nations.  The 
practical  medical  instruction   is  given  mostly  in  the 


GLASGOW 

Western  Infirmary,  as  the  University  is  now  too  far 
removed  from  the  Royal  Infirmary,  tlie  Maternity,  and 
some  of  the  older  institutions  in  the  city  to  allow  them 
to  be  used  as  formerly.  The  list  of  graduates  in  1881-82 
gave  the  following  results  : — In  arts  97  took  the  degree 
of  M.A.,  and  7  the  degree  of  bachelor  of  science  (B.Sc.) ; 
in  divinity  16  took  the  degree  of  bachelor  of  divinity 
(B.D.);  inlaw  7  took  the  degree  of  bachelor  of  laws 
(LL.B. ) ;  and  10  the  degree  of  bachelor  of  law  (B.L.)  ; 
in  medicine  16  took  the  degree  of  doctor  of  medicine 
(M.  D. ) ;  50  the  double  degree  of  bachelor  of  medicine  and 
master  of  surgery  (M.B.  and  CM.);  1  the  single  degree  of 
M.B.  ;  and  2  the  single  degree  of  CM.  ;  while  5  received 
the  certificate  in  engineering  science.  The  General  Coun- 
cil for  1881-82  contained  3540  members.  It  meets  twice 
a  year,  on  the  Wednesday  before  the  opening,  and  on  the 
Wednesday  before  the  close,  of  the  winter  session,  and 
considers  all  questions  affecting  the  well-being  and  pro- 
sperity of  the  University,  and  from  time  to  time  makes 
representations  on  these  subjects  to  the  University  Court. 
Under  the  Reform  Act  of  1867  Glasgow  University  unites 
with  Aberdeen  in  returning  a  member  to  serve  in  parlia- 
ment, the  electorate  consisting  of  the  members  of  General 
Council. 

There  is  an  excellent  gymnasium  a  little  to  the  W  of 
the  main  building,  built  in  1872  at  a  cost  of  £2500, 
raised  by  public  subscription.  The  students'  societies 
connected  with  the  University  are  the  Theological 
Society,  where  essays  are  read  and  debates  take  place 
on  theological  and  ecclesiastical  questions  ;  the  Medico- 
Chirurgical  Society,  for  dissertations  and  debates  on 
medical  subjects ;  the  Dialectic  Society,  for  the  discus- 
sion of  literary,  philosophical,  and  political  subjects ; 
the  Dumfriesshii-e  and  Galloway  Literary  Society,  the 
Ayrshire  Students'  Society,  the  University  Oriental 
Society,  for  the  study  of  the  languages  and  literature  of 
the  East ;  and  the  University  Choral  Society,  for  past 
and  present  members  of  the  University  who  are  inter- 
ested in  music.  Among  the  distinguished  men  who 
have  held  Snell  Exhibitions  have  been  Adam  Smith, 
Sir  William  Hamilton,  J.  G.  Lockhart,  Archbishop 
Tait,  and  Lord  President  Inglis  ;  and  among  the  distin- 
guished men  who  have  either  studied  or  taught  in  the 
University  have  been  Bishop  Elphinstone,  John  Major, 
Spottiswoode,  George  Buchanan,  Andrew  Melvil,  James 
MelvO,  Robert  Boyd,  John  Cameron,  Zachary  Boyd, 
Robert  Baillie,  James  Dalrymple,  the  first  Viscount 
Stair,  Bishop  Gilbert  Burnet,  Bishop  John  Douglas,  Dr 
Robert  Simpson,  the  historian  Wodrow,  Francis  Hut- 
chison, Dr  William  Hunter,  Dr  Thomas  Reid,  Dr 
William  Cullen,  Dr  Joseph  Black,  Dr  Matthew  Baillie, 
Professor  John  Millar,  Professor  Young,  Professor  Wil- 
son, Lord  Jeffrey,  Sir  William  Hooker,  Smith  of  Jor- 
danhUl,  Professor  Anderson,  Professor  Jardine,  Sir 
Daniel  Sandford,  Dr  Lushington,  Professor  Macquorn 
Rankine,  Professor  Allen  Thomson,  and  Professor 
Lister. 

The  Observatory. — The  observatory  first  sprang  from 
a  bequest  to  the  University,  in  1757,  of  a  number  of 
astronomical  instruments,  and  in  1760  George  II. 
founded  the  chair  of  practical  astronomy,  the  professor 
of  which  was  also  to  be  the  observer  in  the  University 
of  Glasgow  ;  and  the  first  observatory  was  erected  in 
College  Gardens.  In  1808  a  society,  called  the  Glasgow 
Society  for  Promoting  Astronomical  Science,  was  formed 
and  incorporated  by  seal  of  cause  from  the  magistrates, 
and  in  connection  with  it  an  observatory  was  built  on 
Garnet  Hill.  It  had  a  revolving  roof,  and  contained  a 
sidereal  clock,  an  azimuth  instrument,  a  large  mural 
circle  by  Troughton,  and  a  14-feet  Herschelian  tele- 
scope, while  a  similar  instrument,  only,  however,  10 
feet  long,  stood  on  the  terrace  in  front.  Both  the 
old  observatories  found  their  localities  getting  too  much 
built  up  and  involved  in  smoke,  and  a  new  observatory 
was  erected  on  an  eminence  in  Dowanhill,  about  \  mile 
to  the  NW  of  the  new  University  buildings  and  imme- 
diately behind  the  curve  of  Victoria  Crescent.  It  is  an 
excellent  building,  and  includes  a  residence  for  the  pro- 
fessor of  astronomy.     The  principal  instruments  are, — 


GLASGOW 

a  meridian  circle  of  3  feet  6  inches  diameter  by  Ertel  of 
Munich,  and  an  equatorially-mounted  refractor  of  9 
inches  aperture  and  13  feet  focal  length,  made  by  Cooke 
of  York.  The  latter  instrument  was  presented  by  a  few 
private  gentlemen  of  Glasgow.  The  Royal  Botanic  Gar- 
dens, also  connected  with  the  University,  have  been 
already  noticed. 

Anderson's  College. — An  institution  for  the  promotion 
of  knowledge,  and  particularly  of  scientific  knowledge, 
was  founded  in  terms  of  a  bequest  by  Dr  John  Anderson, 
at  one  time  professor  of  natural  philosophy  in  the  Uni- 
versity of  Glasgow.  Dr  Anderson  was  a  son  of  the 
minister  of  Roseneath,  and  was  educated  at  Stirling  and 
Glasgow.  He  was  appointed  professor  of  oriental  lan- 
guages in  1756,  and  this  chair  he  in  1760  exchanged  for 
the  more  congenial  one  of  natural  philosophy.  In  1786 
he  published  his  Institutes  of  Physics,  which  was  so 
popular  that  it  went  through  five  editions  in  the  space 
of  ten  years.  He  also  published  a  number  of  articles  on 
natural  science,  antiquities,  and  military  art ;   and  in 

1790  he  invented  a  gun,  the  recoil  of  which  was  dead- 
ened or  stopped  by  air  stored  in  its  carriage.  The 
British  government  was  not  alive  to  its  merit,  and  in 

1791  he  went  to  Paris  and  presented  it  to  the  National 
Convention,  who  accepted  it,  and  ordered  it  to  be  hung 
up  in  their  hall  witli  the  inscription,  '  The  gift  of 
science  to  liberty.'  A  posthumous  work  on  the  Rmnan 
Antiquities  between  tlie  Forth  and  Clyde,  gave  an  account 
of  the  valuable  collection  of  Roman  altars  and  legion- 
ary stones  made  by  him,  and  now  in  the  Hunterian 
Museum.  During  the  time  Dr  Anderson  was  professor 
of  natural  philosophy  he  visited  many  of  the  workshops 
about  the  city,  and,  seeing  that  a  knowledge  of  the 
principles  of  natural  philosophy  would  be  invaluable  to 
mechanics,  he  established  a  class  for  popular  lectures, 
which  he  continued  all  the  remainder  of  his  life,  every 
Tuesday  and  Thursday  during  his  winter  session,  and, 
on  his  death  in  1796,  it  was  found  that  he  had  be- 
queathed nearly  all  his  property  '  to  the  public  for  the 
good  of  mankind  and  the  improvement  of  science,  in  an 
institution  to  be  denominated  "Anderson's  University," 
and  to  be  managed  by  eighty-one  Trustees.'  He  named 
the  first  trustees  in  his  will,  and  divided  them  into  nine 
classes,  viz., — tradesmen,  agriculturists,  artists,  manu- 
facturers or  merchants,  mediciners,  lawyers,  divines, 
natural  philosophers,  and  kinsmen,  and  by  nine  mem- 
bers of  each  of  those  classes  the  institution  is  still  con- 
ducted, with  the  addition  now  of  nine  managers.  Dr 
Anderson's  original  scheme  embraced  the  four  faculties 
of  arts,  medicine,  law,  and  divinity,  each  with  nine  pro- 
fessors, and  an  elementary  school  besides ;  but  the  funds 
bequeathed — only  £1000,  inclusive  of  library  and  collec- 
tion— were  quite  indequate  for  the  purpose,  though,  by 
means  of  contributions  from  many  citizens  of  Glasgow 
and  other  friends  of  science,  his  object  has  now  been 
gained.  The  institution  was  incorporated  by  seal  of 
cause  from  the  magistrates  in  1796,  and  began  with  a 
single  course  of  lectures  on  natural  philosophy  and 
chemistry,  delivered  by  Dr  Thomas  Garnet,  the  well- 
known  author  of  the  Tour  Through  the  Highlands.  In 
1798  a  professorship  of  mathematics  and  geography  was 
added,  and  in  1799  Dr  Garnet,  having  gone  to  London 
as  the  first  professor  in  the  Royal  Institution,  was  suc- 
ceeded by  the  eminent  Dr  Eirkbeck,  who  in  the  follow- 
ing year  instituted  a  class  expressly  for  artisans — the 
first  of  the  kind  ever  established  and  the  forerunner  of 
the  Mechanics'  Institutes  now  spread  all  over  the 
country.  The  class  was  taught  the  first  session  gra- 
tuitously, and  afterwards  a  very  low  fee  was  charged. 
The  bull  dings  were  originally  in  John  Street,  but  were  very 
small  and  cramped,  and  in  1828  new  premises  in  George 
Street — originally  erected  in  1782  as  a  grammar  school — 
were  obtained,  and  these  are  still  occupied.  They  are  the 
reverse  of  beautiful,  and  are  now  also  becoming  cramped 
and  too  small,  but  they  have  seen  and  are  seeing  much 
good  and  useful  work.  AVhen  it  removed  to  George 
Street  the  institution  took  the  name  of  Anderson's 
University,  which  has  since,  under  an  act  of  parliament 
obtained  in  1677  for  incorporation,  etc.,  been  changed 

H9 


GLASGOW 

to  Anderson's  College.  In  1829  tliB  resources  of  the 
institution  were  increased  by  a  donation  from  the  late 
James  Yeats  of  a  fifth  part  of  the  island  of  Shuna  which 
is  worth  about  £40  a  year.  In  1870  the  '  Young ' 
chair  of  technical  chemistry  was  founded;  and  in  1876, 
through  the  liberality  of  a  few  gentlemen  in  Glasgow,  a 
chair  of  applied  mechanics,  with  a  suitable  endowment, 
was  founded  in  connection  with  the  faculty  of  arts. 
The  faculties  of  law  and  divinity  have  always  remained 
in  abeyance,  but  a  medical  school  has  been  in  existence 
since  the  closing  years  of  last  centurj',  when  John  Burns 
began  to  lecture  on  surgery.  Many  of  the  most  distin- 
guished physicians  and  surgeons  in  Glasgow  have  been 
connected  with  it,  and  many  of  the  medical  practitioners 
trained  in  it  have  attained  to  fame,  two  names — those 
of  Livingstone  and  Dr  B.  W.  Richardson — being  par- 
ticularly noteworthy.  Many  of  the  medical  professors 
pass  afterwards  to  Glasgow  University  to  fill  similar 
posts.  In  1879  three  new  lectureships,  viz., ^dental 
anatomy,  dental  surgery,  and  dental  mechanics  and 
metallurgy — were  instituted.  The  classes  are  divided 
into  day  classes  and  popular  evening  classes,  the  fees 
in  the  latter,  which  are  intended  for  artisans,  being 
very  small.  The  faculty  of  arts  has  professors  of 
mathematics  and  natural  philosophy,  chemistry,  tech- 
nical chemistry,  and  applied  mechanics.  The  medical 
faculty  has  chairs  of  chemistry,  surgery,  anatomy, 
instituted  of  medicine,  materia  medica,  practice  of 
medicine,  ophthalmic  medicine  and  surgery,  botany, 
midwifery,  medical  jurisprudence,  public  health,  aural 
surgery,  dental  anatomy,  dental  surgery,  and  dental 
mechanics  and  metallurgy.  Practical  and  clinical  instruc- 
tion are  obtained  at  the  Royal  Infirmary,  at  Anderson's 
College  Dispensary — which  in  1881  had  8732  patients, 
while  3628  patients  were  visited  at  their  own  homes — at 
the  Lying-in  Hospital,  at  the  Ophthalmic  Institution, 
and  at  the  Anderson's  College  Dental  Hospital.  There 
are  also  classes  of  French,  German,  Hebrew,  Latin,  and 
Greek,  writing  and  book-keeping,  phonography,  and 
geology.  There  are  evening  classes  for  the  study  of 
natural  philosophy,  anatomy  and  physiology,  chemistry, 
music,  and  botany,  and  applied  mechanics ;  the  lectures 
in  chemistry,  mechanical  and  experimental  physics,  and 
anatomy  and  physiology  being  delivered  in  terms  of  a 
bequest  by  Mr  John  Freeland,  who,  in  1861,  gifted  £7600 
for  the  purpose  of  making  provision  for  separate  courses 
on  these  subjects,  and  who  also  gifted  £5000  for  general 
purposes.  Those  in  music  are  delivered  in  terms  of  a 
gift  of  £3000  in  1866  from  Mr  William  Euing,  who  also 
presented  the  college  mth  the  adjoining  Model  Schools, 
and  bequeathed  to  it  his  musical  library,  £1200  for  the 
provision  of  accommodation  for  his  library,  and  £6000  for 
general  purposes.  In  connection  with  the  'Young'  chair 
of  chemistry  are  a  number  of  bursaries  of  £50  a  year  ten- 
able for  three  years  ;  in  connection  with  the  chairs  of 
natural  philosophy,  anatomy,  and  botany  are  five  bur- 
saries of  £12  each  ;  and  the  Ferguson  Bequest  Trustees 
appoint  two  bursars  for  any  class  except  pi-actical  anatomy 
or  practical  chemistry.  The  expenditure  for  1881-82  was 
£1315,  12s.  lid.,  and  the  income,  exclusive  of  fees,  etc., 
£698,  9s.  8d.  The  college  possesses,  inclusive  of 
buildings  and  apparatus,  property  to  the  value  of 
£40,562,  12s.  lOd.  The  formation  of  the  library,  which 
is  of  fair  size,  was  begun  in  1808,  and  the  apartment  for 
it  is  now  lighted  by  the  electric  light.  The  collection 
■of  curiosities,  etc.,  bequeathed  by  Dr  Anderson  has 
developed  into  a  good  museum,  which  contains  a  num- 
ber of  interesting  coins  and  medals,  and  geological  and 
mineralogical  specimens,  as  well  as  an  extensive  general 
collection.  The  museum  is  open  to  students  attending 
the  University  free,  and  to  the  general  public  on  Wed- 
nesday and  Saturday,  from  12  to  2,  at  a  charge  of  6d. 
The  room  used  for  library  and  museum  contains  a 
tjlaster  statue  of  the  founder  of  the  College.  The  num- 
ter  of  evening  students  in  1852-53  was  160;  in  1873-74, 
the  year  of  the  greatest  number,  it  was  1457  ;  for 
1881-2  it  was  1084  ;  and  the  total  number  in  attendance 
on  all  the  classes  for  1881-82  was  2517,  though  probably 
some  deduction  ought  to  be  made  from  that  number  for 

aso  - 


GLASGO# 

students  attending  more  than  one  class.  There  is  a 
Dental  Students'  Association  meeting  in  the  College. 
The  winter  session  begins  in  September  and  ends  in 
April,  and  the  summer  session  begins  in  May  and  ends 
in  July. 

The  Western  Medical  School  is  the  extra  mural  school 
in  connection  with  the  Western  Infirmary.  It  has  its 
premises  in  University  Avenue  in  Hillhead,  and  has 
lecturers  on  chemistry,  anatomy,  physiology,  surgery, 
practice  of  medicine,  materia  medica,  midwifery,  and 
forensic  medicine  and  public  health. 

Tlie  Glasgow  Veterinary  College  is  in  Buccleuch  Street. 
It  was  founded  in  1861,  and  was,  under  the  Royal  Sign 
Manual,  incorporated  with  the  Royal  College  of  Veteri- 
nary Surgeons.  The  patrons  are  the  Dukes  of  Argyll 
and  Hamilton,  the  provost  and  magistrates  of  the  city, 
the  professors  of  the  University,  the  Highland  and 
Agricultural  Society,  etc.,  etc.  There  are  chairs  of 
veterinary  medicine  and  surgery,  materia  medica,  ana- 
tomy, and  of  chemistry,  physiology,  and  botany ;  and 
clinical  instruction  is  given  at  the  college.  Afiiliated  to 
it  is  the  Glasgow  Agricultural  College,  with  a  chair  of 
the  science  and  practice  of  agriculture,  of  practical  work 
at  the  farm,  surveying,  farm  accounts,  etc.,  of  general 
and  agricultural  chemistry,  of  natural  history,  of  veteri- 
nary medicine  and  surgery,  and  of  botany. 

The  College  of  Science  and  Arts  originated  from  the 
Glasgow  Mechanics'  Institute,  which  was  founded  in 
1822-23,  and  is  incorporated  by  seal  of  cause.  It  had 
good  buildings  bought  for  it  in  North  Hanover  Street 
in  1831,  but  these  were  in  1859  purchased  by  the  Edin- 
burgh and  Glasgow  Railway  Company  for  extension  of 
their  terminus,  and  new  buildings  were  in  1S60  erected 
for  the  Institute  near  the  E  end  of  Bath  Street  between 
Renfield  Street  and  West  Nile  Street.  These,  which 
cost  about  £4000,  are  rectangular  in  form,  mth  a  frontage 
of  50  feet  to  Bath  Street,  and  96  feet  backwards,  and 
rise  to  a  height  of  four  stories.  They  are  very  hand- 
some, with  finely  proportioned  pillars  in  front,  and  a 
statue  of  James  Watt  in  the  centre  on  the  top.  Since 
1879  it  has  been  aided  as  a  technical  school,  to  the  extent 
of  £600  a  year,  by  Hutcheson's  Hospital,  and  the  name 
was  then  changed  to  the  College  of  Science  and  Arts. 
It  has  also  since  that  been  aided  by  other  public  bodies, 
and  the  objects  considerably  modified.  When  it  was 
established  it  was  meant  to  promote  the  culture  of  the 
artisan  class  ;  but  the  evening  classes  maintained  by  the 
School  Board  and  other  institutions  have  now  taken  this 
field  up,  and  consequently  the  literary  classes  here  have 
been  entirely  discontinued,  and  the  limited  resources  of 
the  College,  since  1879,  concentrated  on  providing  'edu- 
cation in  such  branches  of  science  as  have  an  immediate 
application  to  the  practical  arts  on  which  so  large  a  section 
of  the  community  is  dependent,  and  also  to  some  extent 
in  the  arts  themselves.'  This  is  accomplished  by  both 
day  classes  and  evening  classes,  in  which  instruction  is 
given  in  geometry,  machine  and  building  construction, 
and  drawing,  naval  architecture,  freehand  and  perspec- 
tive drawing,  arithmetic,  book-keeping  and  mensuration, 
mathematics,  theoretical  and  applied  mechanics,  elec- 
tricity and  electrical  engineering,  mechanical  engineer- 
ing, steam,  sound,  light,  and  heat,  botany,  mining 
and  geology  and  mine  surveying,  which  are  taught  by 
the  principal,  eight  lecturers,  and  assistants.  The 
students  are  prepared  with  a  special  view  to  the 
examinations  of  the  Department  of  Science  and  Art,  and 
of  the  City  and  Guilds  of  London  Institute.  The 
amount  of  money  earned  in  Government  grants  from  the 
former  was  for  1880-81  £259,  10s.,  while  for  1S81-S2  it 
will  be  about  £450,  and  £50  will  probably  be  obtained 
from  the  latter  source.  The  library  is  good  and  exten- 
sive, containing  about  9000  volumes.  The  affairs  are 
managed  by  a  council  of  16  members — 1  representing 
the  Merchants'  House,  1  the  Town  Council,  1  the 
Faculty  of  Procurators,  1  the  Trades'  House,  1  the 
Institution  of  Engineers  and  Shipbuilders  in  Scotland, 
1  the  Glasgow  Institute  of  Architects,  1  Hutcheson's 
Hospital,  and  9  are  elected  by  the  College.  The  incoma 
for    1881-82    was    £1682,    5s.    4d.,    the     expenditure 


GLASGOW 


GLASGOW 


£1972,  93.  lid.,  and  the  cash  in' bank  after  covering 
the  deficiency  £269,  10s.  The  assets,  inclusive  of 
pro^jerty,  etc.,  and  cash  balances  are  estimated  at 
£18,085,  4s.  2d. 

T/tc  Technical  College  of  Glasgoio  originated  in  an 
influential  meeting  held  in  the  Council  Chambers  in 
February  1872,  at  which  a  scheme  was  proposed  for  pro- 
viding technical  instruction  in  the  theory  and  practice 
of  the  various  great  industries  of  the  city.  The  instruc- 
tion was  to  be  given,  as  far  as  practicable,  to  men  whose 
early  scientific  education  had  been  neglected,  and  who 
were  already  engaged  in  the  active  duties  of  life,  and 
was  to  be  carried  out  in  connection  with  Anderson's 
University,  the  Mechanics'  Institution,  and  the  Govern- 
ment School  of  Art  and  Haldane's  Academy,  at  a  cost 
of  £50,000,  to  be  raised  by  public  subscription.  In 
1S76  a  report  was  read  at  a  public  meeting,  in  which  it 
was  stated  that  the  whole  scheme  would  have  to  be 
abandoned  for  want  of  funds,  except  a  weaving  college, 
for  which  £3230  had  been  subscribed.  This  was  after- 
wards erected  in  Well  Street,  Calton,  with  ten  steam- 
power  looms  and  two  hand-looms.  There  is  an  in- 
structor and  several  assistants,  and  instruction  is  given 
in  plain  and  figured  weaving,  and  in  making  working 
plans  and  drafts  for  the  use  of  mounters,  weavers, 
enterers,  harness  tyers,  and  designers.  The  students 
are  made  familiar  with  the  working  of  both  hand  and 
power  looms,  as  well  as  with  their  construction ;  and 
they  are  also  taught  to  sketch  patterns,  draw  designs, 
and  analyse  woven  fabrics.  The  number  of  pupils  has 
increased  from  42  in  1878  to  about  80  in  1881. 

The  Glasgow  Eastern  Botanical  Society  was  instituted 
in  1876  for  the  study  of  botanical  science,  and  meets  in 
the  Bridgeton  Mechanics'  Institute  once  a  month.  It 
conducts  a  MS.  magazine. 

The  Free  Cliurch  Theological  College. — This  building, 
which  also  includes  the  Free  College  church,  stands  on 
the  high  ground  to  the  E  of  Eelvingrove  Park,  with 
frontages  to  India  Street  and  Lyuedoch  Street.  The 
two  form  a  solid  pile — which  has,  however,  a  somewhat 
dull  look — and  were  erected  at  different  times  doivn  to 
1S62.  The  style  is  plain  Italian,  with  a  handsome  and 
well-proportioned  campanile  at  the  W  end,  with  a 
balustrade  and  pointed  roof  The  church  fronts  the 
N,  and  has  an  octostyle  portico  with  two  towers  in 
miniature  uniformity  with  that  at  the  W  end,  but  these 
are  entirely  spoiled  by  the  ornamentation  on  the  top. 
The  platform  near  the  top  of  the  high  campanile  is 
accessible,  and  commands  a  magnificent  bird's-eye  view 
of  the  greater  part  of  the  city,  but  particularly  to  the  W, 
where  the  eye  passes  over  the  suburbs  to  the  open 
country  beyond,  along  the  basin  of  the  Clyde.  The 
college  was  instituted  after  the  Disruption,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  preparing  students  in  the  West  of  Scotland  for 
the  Free  Church  ministry,  and  has  a  principal  and  pro- 
fessor of  divinity,  apologetics  and  New  Testament 
exegesis,  church  history,  and  Hebrew  and  Old  Testa- 
ment exegesis,  and  a  lecturer  on  natural  science.  There 
are  a  considerable  number  of  bursaries,  varying  from 
£10  to  £30  per  annum,  and  scholarships  varying  from 
£40  to  £112  per  annum.  The  session  commences  in 
November,  and  lasts  for  five  months. 

Normal  Schools. — The  Normal  Institution  in  connec- 
tion with  the  Church  of  Scotland  was  founded  in  1827 
for  the  purpose  of  training  teachers,  and  is  the  parent 
institution  of  its  kind  in  the  kingdom.  The  building, 
which  stands  on  the  N  side  of  New  City  Eoad  at  the  E 
end  close  to  Cowcaddens,  was  erected  in  1827  at  a  cost 
of  £15,000.  It  has  a  principal  front  128  feet  long  to  the 
S,  with  wings  running  northward  for  110  feet;  in  the 
centre  is  a  tower  rising  45  feet  above  the  roof  The 
Students'  Hall  has  lectureships  on  the  principles  of 
teaching,  religious  knowledge,  mathematics  and  science, 
English,  natural  science  and  drawing,  classics  and  his- 
tory, pianoforte  music,  vocal  music,  needlework,  and 
French,  and  a  gymnastic  master.  The  practising  schools 
are  carried  on  by  a  head-master  and  four  assistants,  two 
mistresses,  teachers  of  music,  German,  needlework, 
pianoforte,  and  drawing,  and  a  staff  of  pupil  teachers. 


The  attendance  of  students  in  1881  was  80  male  and 
83  female,  and  in  the  practising  department  there 
were  632  pupils  in  average  attendance.  A  hoarding- 
house  for  the  accommodation  of  70  female  students  was 
erected  in  1874  not  far  from  the  school,  at  a  cost  of 
£1700. 

The  Normal  Seminary  in  connection  with  the  Free 
Church  originated  immediately  after  the  Disruption, 
and  has  accommodation  on  the  S  side  of  Cowcaddens 
about  IJ  furlong  E  of  the  Chm-ch  of  Scotland's  institu- 
tion.  The  building,  which  is  in  a  mixed  style  of  Tudor 
Gothic,  was  erected  in  1846.  There  is  a  rector  and 
lecturers  on  mathematics  and  geography,  etc.,  a  master 
of  method,  a  music  governess,  a  lady  superintendent,  a 
French  master,  a  music  master,  a  drawing  master,  a 
drill  sergeant,  and  an  instructor  in  calisthenics,  while 
in  the  practising  department  there  are  three  masters 
and  three  mistresses,  and  in  the  industrial  department 
two  mistresses.  The  attendance  at  the  training  depart- 
ment was  in  1881-82  male  students  73  and  female  97. 
In  the  practising  school  there  were  521  pupils  and  10 
pupil  teachers. 

Glasgoio  Association  for  the  Higher  Education  of 
Women  has  for  its  object  the  advancement  of  the 
higher  education  of  women  in  Glasgow  by  means  of 
courses  of  lectures  delivered  by  professors  in  the  Uni- 
versity and  others,  and  by  tutorial  and  correspondence 
classes.  Some  of  the  courses  of  lectures  are  delivered 
in  the  University,  and  others  in  the  association's 
class-room  in  St  Andrew's  Halls,  to  which  a  ladies' 
reading-room  and  library  is  attached.  The  session  is 
from  1  Nov.  to  1  May.  The  correspondence  classes 
prepare  ladies  in  the  country  for  the  University  local 
examinations,  and  assist  them  in  private  study.  The 
London  Society  of  Arts  holds  examinations  in  Glas- 
gow, and  grants  certificates  in  the  theory  and  prac- 
tice of  music,  in  connection  with  this  association.  In 
1881-82  £190  was  spent  in  bursaries  and  prizes  ;  the 
income  was  £1174,  lis.  2d.  ;  and  the  expenditure 
£1022,  15s.  lid. 

The  High  School  of  Glasgow. — This  institution,  at  one 
time  known  as  the  Grammar  School,  dates  from  the 
12th  century,  and  is  descended  from  the  Sang  School, 
which  has  been  already  mentioned.  Till  1782  the 
buildings  were  in  Greyfriars'  Wynd,  but  in  that  year 
the  school  was  removed  to  buildings  erected  for  it  in 
George  Street,  and  now  occupied  by  Anderson's  Col- 
lege. It  was  again  moved  in  1819  to  a  site  on  the 
rising  ground  behind  Anderson's  College  between  John 
Street  and  Montrose  Street,  a  situation  which  was  at 
that  time  both  open  and  airy.  It  gradually  got  blocked 
in  by  houses,  and  after  the  management  of  it  passed  from 
the  town  council  to  the  school  board — under  the  Edu- 
cation Act  of  1872,  in  which  it  was  scheduled  as  one  of 
the  eight  secondary  schools  for  Scotland — the  desira- 
bility of  a  fresh  removal  was  pressed  forward,  and, 
finally,  in  1878,  the  school  board  acquired  for  the  High 
School  the  buildings  in  Elmbank  Street,  up  till  that 
time  occupied  by  the  Glasgow  Academy.  These,  which 
have  cost  £35,023,  are  plain  Italian  in  style,  two  stories 
high,  and  have  over  the  doorway  and  adjoining  windows 
four  statues,  representing  Homer,  Cicero,  GalUeo,  and 
James  Watt,  erected  through  the  liberality  of  three 
members  of  the  school  board  since  the  buildings  passed 
into  their  possession.  There  is  accommodation  for  1356 
pupils,  and  the  staff  consists  of  a  rector,  ten  masters, 
and  twelve  assistants,  giving  instruction  in  classics, 
English,  mathematics,  German,  French,  writing  and 
book-keeping,  drawing  and  painting,  singing  and  fen- 
cing. The  average  attendance  is  about  700.  Connected 
with  it  is  the  High  School  Club,  formed  of  old  pupils 
desirous  of  promoting  the  interests  of  the  school,  especi- 
ally by  providing  scholarships. 

The  Glasgoio  Academy  was  originally  instituted  in 
1846,  and  when  the  directors  in  1878  sold  the  old  build- 
ings in  Elmbank  Street  to  the  school  board,  the  Academy 
was  moved  to  a  new  site  to  the  N  of  the  Great  Western 
Road,  where  it  crosses  the  Kelvin.  The  new  building 
is  a  handsome  square  block  ia  the  Italian  style.     It 

151 


GLASGOW 

contains  sixteen  class-rooms,  a  rector's  room,  a  masters' 
room,  a  large  gymnasium,  a  lecture-room,  a  laboratory, 
a  music-room,  and  a  dining-room,  besides  a  covered  hall 
with  compartments  for  cloak  and  cap  rooms.  The  school 
is  worthy  of  notice  for  its  internal  arrangement,  all  the 
class-rooms  (which  are  18  feet  high)  opening  off  galleries 
communicating  with  one  another  by  corner  staircases, 
and  looking  out  on  a  large  central  well,  lit  from  the  roof. 
Including  the  site  of  5  acres,  all  laid  out  as  playground, 
it  cost  about  £30,000.  The  staff  consists  of  a  rector, 
eight  masters,  eight  assistant  masters  (for  classics, 
English,  mathematics,  German,  French,  writing  and 
book-keeping,  drawing  and  painting,  music  and  gym- 
nastics), and  four  lady  teachers  for  the  initiatory  depart- 
ment and  for  music.  There  is  accommodation  for  700 
boys,  and  the  average  attendance  is  from  400  to  500. 
It  belongs  to  a  limited  liability  company,  and  the  affairs 
are  managed  by  a  board  of  fifteen  directors.  In  connec- 
tion with  it  is  an  Academy  Club  similar  to  the  High 
School  Club.  Besides  the  High  School  and  the  Aca- 
demy there  are  42  other  private  high-class  schools  within 
the  city  in  various  parts,  with  accommodation  for  nearly 
11,000  pupils. 

Hutchcson's  Hospital  was  founded  in  1639-41  by  two 
brothers,  George  and  Thomas  Hutcheson,  who  were 
notaries  and  writers  in  Glasgow  in  the  early  part  of  the 
17th  century.  George  died  in  1639,  and  bequeathed  a 
site  and  a  sum  of  money  for  founding  a  hospital  for 
aged  citizens  ;  while  Thomas  gave  and  bequeathed  further 
sums  for  the  same  purpose,  and  also  for  educating  poor 
boys.  The  whole  value  of  the  original  bequests  amounted 
to  £3817,  Is.  8d.,  but  so  judiciously  has  this  been 
nursed  and  added  to  by  other  benefactors,  that  the  clear 
assets  are  now  worth  nearly  half  a  million.  The  original 
building,  of  which  the  foundation  was  laid  by  Thomas 
Hutcheson  in  1640,  was  on  the  N  side  of  the  Trongate, 
at  the  foot  of  Hutcheson  Street,  and  had  to  be  taken 
down  to  allow  that  thoroughfare  to  be  formed.  Draw- 
ings of  it  that  have  been  preserved  show  a  plain 
Jacobean  two-story  building,  with  a  clock  spire,  accord- 
ing to  M'Ure,  100  feet  high.  The  frontage  had  an 
extent  of  70  feet,  with  the  principal  entrance  in  the 
centre.  There  was  a  wing  at  the  back,  and  accommoda- 
tion for  12  old  men  and  12  boys,  and  a  school  where  the 
boys  were  taught.  The  12  old  men  used  to  go  together 
to  the  church,  and  sit  together  in  a  '  convenient  easie 
seat.'  When  the  old  buildings  were  removed  in  1802, 
new  ones  were  begun  at  the  corner  of  Ingram  Street  and 
John  Street,  and  finished  in  1805  ;  and  here  is  still  the 
building  known  distinctively  as  Hutch  eson's  Hospital. 
It  has  a  rusticated  basement  and  a  Corinthian  super- 
structure, surmounted  by  an  octagonal  spire  156  feet 
high,  and  in  niches  at  the  sides  of  the  Ingram  Street 
front  are  quaint  statues  of  the  two  brothers.  It  was 
long  partly  occupied  by  Stirling's  Library,  but  has  no 
school  or  boarding  place  in  it.  The  funds  are  designed 
for  the  aid  of  citizens  of  Glasgow,  or  of  persons  who 
have  engaged  in  trade  there  on  their  own  account  ivith 
credit  and  reputation,  but  who  have,  by  misfortune, 
fallen  into  reduced  circumstances,  and  also  for  the  aid 
of  the  wives  and  daughters  of  such,  preference  being 
given  cceteris  paribus  to  persons  enrolled  as  burgesses  of 
Glasgow  previous  to  30  Jan.  1871.  Applicants  must  be 
50  years  of  age,  but  widows  with  two  or  more  children 
are  eligible  at  40 ;  the  foundationers  in  the  school  are 
the  children  of  such  as  would  themselves  be  qualified  as 
pensioners.  The  schools  are  Hutchcson's  Grammar 
School,  in  Crown  Street,  in  Hutchesontown,  and  the 
Girls'  School,  in  Gorbals.  The  charity  was  greatly 
widened  by  an  Act  of  Parliament  obtained  by  the 
governors  in  1872,  by  which  the  governing  body  was 
enlarged,  so  that  it  now  consists  of  the  Lord  Provost, 
Magistrates,  and  Council,  the  ministers  of  the  ten  city 
parishes,  three  members  elected  by  the  Merchants' 
House,  three  by  the  Trades'  House,  and  six  ministers 
elected  by  the  patrons  from  the  ministers  in  Glasgow 
other  than  those  of  the  Established  Church,  and  not 
more  than  one  from  any  denomination.  Powers  were 
conferred  on  the  directors  to  take  certain  steps  for  the 
1S2 


GLASGOW 

promotion  of  secondary  education,  and  under  these  a 
grammar  school  and  a  girls'  school  have  been  organised, 
so  as  to  provide  primary  and  secondary  education  for  boys 
and  girls.  £36,000  was  expended  on  these  buildings, 
and  the  attendance,  including  foundationers,  is  in  the 
former  about  1300,  and  in  the  latter  about  900,  the  fee 
charged  from  outside  pupils  being  from  £2  to  £5  per 
quarter.  In  connection  with  the  former,  six,  and  with 
the  latter,  four  bursaries  every  year  connect  the  primary 
with  the  secondary  department.  They  are  tenable  for 
three  years,  and  are  worth  £5  the  first  year,  £10  the 
second  year,  and  £15  the  third  year,  with  free  educa- 
tion. In  the  grammar  school  there  are  besides  20 
scholarships  every  year,  and  in  the  girls  school  4  for 
the  encouragement  of  higher  education.  All  these  are 
awarded  by  open  competition.  Besides  this  the  gover- 
nors were  empowered  to  grant  a  subsidy  of  £600  a  year 
to  the  Mechanics'  Institution  to  aid  it  as  a  technical 
school,  and  10  bursaries  have  been  established  in  con- 
nection with  it  every  year  tenable  for  three  years,  the 
gainers  of  which  are  entitled  to  a  three  years'  course  at 
the  Mechanics'  Institution,  with,  at  the  discretion  of  the 
governors,  an  allowance  of  £5  for  class  expenses.  Three 
University  bursaries,  of  the  annual  value  of  £20,  £25, 
and  £30,  have  also  been  established,  each  tenable  for  four 
years. 

There  is  a  branch  of  the  Eoyal  School  of  Art  Needle- 
work in  Bath  Street.  Applicants  for  admission  must 
be  gentlewomen  by  birth  and  education,  and  must  be 
willing  to  devote  seven  hours  a  day  to  work  at  the 
scliool,  the  chief  aim  being  thus  to  find  suitable  employ- 
ment for  gentlewomen  and  to  restore  ornamental  needle- 
work to  the  high  place  it  once  held  among  decorative 
arts.  The  profit  in  1881  was  over  £400,  and  the  reserve 
fund  amounts  to  nearly  £6000. 

Board  Schools. — The  Burgh  School  Board  consists  of 
15  members,  and  was  constituted  in  1872  by  the  Educa- 
tion Act  passed  in  that  year.  When  the  first  board 
came  into  ofBee  they  found  that  the  children  of  school 
age  within  the  limits  of  their  district  numbered  87,294, 
while  in  1873  to  meet  this  there  was  school  accommoda- 
tion for  only  57,290  scholars  (31,000  in  inspected 
schools),  while  the  school  attendance  was  only  52,000, 
leaving  35,000  children  of  school  age  unaccounted 
for.  The  school  accommodation  in  164  schools  for 
46,749  scholars  was  good,  in  36  for  7664  scholars  in- 
different, and  in  25  for  2806  it  was  bad.  They  decided 
that  41  schools  with  accommodation  for  7300  pupils 
should  be  abandoned,  and  this  left  aggregate  accommo- 
dation for  49,919,  which  left  a  deficiency  of  over  34,000. 
To  meet  this  the  board  acquired  nine  permanent  day 
schools  in  Anderston,  Bridgeton,  Buchan  Street,  Debbie's 
Loan,  Finnieston,  Hozier  Street,  Old  Wynd,  Rose  Street, 
and  St  Rollox,  and  opened  temporary  schools  in  various 
places  till  30  schools  with  accommodation  for  22,000 
scholars  should  be  erected.  Such  has,  however,  been 
the  amount  of  progress  in  educational  matters,  and  the 
increased  demands  of  the  education  department,  that 
since  that  time  they  have  again  abandoned  as  unsuit- 
able schools  with  accommodation  for  more  pupils 
than  those  which  they  at  that  time  proposed  to  build. 
There  are  at  present  (Nov.  1882)  49  schools  under  the 
management  of  the  board,  with  total  accommodation 
for  36,192  pupils,  while  for  the  month  of  October  the 
number  on  the  roll  was  41,893,  and  the  actual  attend- 
ance 34,730.  Of  the  49  schools,  10  with  accommo- 
dation for  3369  scholars  are  either  wholly  or  partially 
temporary.  After  the  passing  of  the  Education  Act 
many  existing  schools  were  at  once  closed,  and  in  con- 
sequence the  school  board  had  at  one  time  30  temporary 
schools  in  operation.  These  were  in  1880  reduced  to 
7,  but  the  number  has  since  been  increased  to  10,  owing 
to  greater  attendance  at  several  schools.  The  new 
buildings,  afterwards  mentioned,  will,  it  is  hoped, 
enable  these  temporary  schools  to  be  finally  closed. 
The  following  are  the  schools  under  the  board,  in- 
spected in  the  year  ending  30  June  1882,  with  the 
number  of  pupils  in  average  attendance  and  amount  of 
grant  for  the  year  : — 


GLASGOW 


School. 

Average 
Attend- 
ance. 

Percentage 
of  Passes. 

Grant. 

1 

Abbotsford,     .     .     . 

663 

95-9 

£630    7    6 

2 

Anderston 

838 

94-8 

743  10    0 

3 

Barrowiield,     .     .     . 

620 

92-0 

615     2    0 

4 

Bishop  Street, .    .    . 

967 

96  0 

923    0    6 

5 

Bridgeton 

327 

93-7 

270  11     0 

6 

Buchan  Street,     .     . 

354 

911 

289    9    0 

7 

Bumbank,  .... 

213 

93-9 

160  11     0 

8 

Camden  Street,    .    . 

949 

92-5 

955  11     6 

9 

Camlachie,  .... 

379 

86-8 

279    7     8 

10 

Campbellfleld, .    .     . 

774 

91-6 

637    6    0 

11 

Centre  Street, .     .     . 

823 

93-8 

761  11     2 

12 

City  (Boys'),     .     .     . 
City  (Girls').     .     .     . 

335 

90-5 

283  18    6 

13 

431 

90-5 

404    0    6 

1-1 

Crookston  Street,     . 

1115 

92  7 

1022  11     6 

15 

Dobbie's  Loan,     .     . 

382 

94  7 

328  15     0 

16 

Dovehill 

784 

926 

619  16    0 

17 

Finnifeston 

303 

86-7 

238  15     0 

IS 

Freeland 

339 

92-8 

314  14    2 

19 

Garnethill 

974 

96  9 

988    9    0 

20 

George  Street,     .    . 

451 

94-2 

386    9    0 

21 

Glenpark,    .... 

322 

91-9 

294    3    0 

22  {  Greenside  Street,      . 

799 

97  8 

878    4     6 

23 

Grove  Street,  .    .    . 

465 

92-3 

362  10    0 

24 

Henderson  Street,    . 

1065 

93-8 

1067  17    6 

26 

Hozier  Street, .     .     . 

444 

91-4 

346     2    0 

26 

Kennedy  Street,  .    . 

691 

94-3 

660    6    6 

27 

KeppochhiU,    .     .     . 

339 

94-5 

299     1    6 

28 

Martyrs 

357 

98  5 

328    3    6 

29 

M.athieson  Street,     . 

645 

96-1 

454     1     6 

30 

Milton, 

714 

97-6 

633  15    0 

31 

Oakbank,    .... 

916 

911 

841  16    0 

32 

Oatlands,     .    ,    .    , 

1252 

92-7 

1213     1    0 

33 

Overnewton,    .    .    ' 

870 

94-7 

828    9    8 

34 

Parkhead 

734 

95-6 

682    3    0 

35 

Kockvilla 

631 

86-2 

430  17    0 

36 

Rose  Street,     .     .     . 

691 

906 

618  12    0 

37 

Rumford  Street,  .    . 

739 

90-5 

685  10    6 

38 

St  Rollox,    .... 

659 

94-6 

614    3    6 

39 

Sister  Street,   .     .     . 

703 

96-1 

689  16     6 

40 

Springburn,     .     .     . 

857 

93-6 

818    8    6 

41 

'Thomson  Street.  .     . 

9S4 

93-3 

943    8    0 

42 

Tureen  Street,      .    . 

783 

96-2 

734  16     6 

The  average  number  on  the  roll  of  the  schools  tabulated, 
for  the  year  ending  30  June  1882,  was  35,747;  and  the 
total  average  attendance  was  27,271,  an  increase  of  2039 
on  1880-81.  The  number  qualified  for  examination  was 
22,310,  an  increase  of  2114  on  1880-81  ;  and  the  number 
presented  for  examination  was  20,595,  an  increase  of 
1944  on  1880-81.  The  average  number  of  passes  in  the 
elementary  subjects  was  93 '7,  as  against  an  average  of 
88-32  for  all  Scotland,  while  24,595  (an  increase  of  1974 
on  1880-81)  were  passed  in  grammar,  intelligence,  geo- 
graphy, and  history.  The  infants  qualified  for  ex- 
amination were  1326  ;  presented  1274,  an  increase  of 
59  and  74  respectively  on  the  preceding  year.  The 
total  gi-ants  earned  amounted  to  £24,868,  2s.  2d.,  and 
the  grants  earned  from  the  Science  and  Art  Department 
amounted  to  £459,  2s.  ;  while  the  year's  fees  amount 
to  about  £30,000.  When  the  operations  of  the  board 
at  present  contemplated  are  complete,  they  will  have 
under  their  care  52  schools,  of  which  the  following  is  a 
list,  showing  the  accommodation  : — In  Anderston  dis- 
trict—Bishop Sti-eet  (1210),  Finnieston  (378),  Over- 
newton (975),  Anderston  (929),  High  School  (1356) ;  in 
Milton  district — Dobbie's  Loan  (470),  Henderson  Street 
(985),  Rockvilla  (926),  Milton  (1140),  Garnethill  (1003), 
Oakbank  (930),  Grove  Street  (503),  Burnbank  (250), 
Woodside  (1036),  St  George's  Road  (1100) ;  in  St  Rollox 
district — Kennedy  Street  (840),  Springburn  (850),  Kep 
pochhill  (584),  Freeland  (332),  Martyrs'  (472)  ;  in  Den 
nistoun  district— St  Rollox  (807),  Dovehill  (1066) 
Eosemount  (600),  Dennistoun  (1130) ;  in  Central  dis 
trict— City,  for  boys  (600),  Citv,  for  girls  (595),  George 
Street  (471)  ;  in  Calton  district— Tureen  Street  (785) 
in  Camlachie  district — Thomson  Street  (886),  Barrow- 
field  (742),  Sister  Street  (775),  Parkhead  (1037),  Cam 
lachie  (812),  Campbellfleld  (876),  Campbellfleld,  half- 
time  (287),  Glenpark  (341) ;  in  Bridgeton  district — 
Bridgeton  (331),  Rumford  Street  (711),  Hozier  Street 
(486),  Springfiftld  (766),  John  Street  (1135) ;  in  Tradeston 
district— Centre  Street  (843),  Crookston  Street  (1135). 
Shields  Road  (200),  Shields  Road,  New  (843);  in  Gorbah 
47 


GLASGOW 

district— Greenside  Street  (830),  Buchan  Street  (530), 
Abbotsford  (1100)  ;  in  Hutchesontown  district — Rose 
Street  (820),  Camden  Street  (1020),  Oatlands  (1286), 
Mathieson  Street  (900).  Of  these  the  St  George's  Road, 
Rosemount,  Dennistoun,  Springfleld,  John  Street,  and 
New  Shields  Road  schools  are  still  unfinished.  The 
28  schools  already  erected  by  the  board  have  cost  (in- 
clusive of  sites)  nearly  £400,000,  and  the  cost  per  unit 
of  accommodation  has  varied  from  £8,  15s.  2d.  to  £23, 
14s.  2d.,  and  has  averaged  £14,  19s.  8d.  All  the  board 
schools  are  at  least  two  stories  in  height,  and  are  mostly 
built  on  the  square  principle  with  the  stairs  in  the 
centre,  the  school-rooms  and  class-rooms  running  off 
to  the  right  and  left.  They  are  all  mixed  schools,  but 
have  the  separate  entrances,  etc.,  for  boys  and  girls, 
prescribed  in  the  Education  Department's  rules.  Inside, 
the  boys  and  girls  form  separate  sub-divisions  of  the 
classes.  The  board  meets  on  the  second  Monday  of 
each  month.  The  total  amount  of  loans  has  been 
£448,750,  repayable  in  periods  varying  in  different 
cases  from  25  to  50  years,  and  there  has  been  already 
repaid  £40,425,  Is.  6d.  The  income  from  1873  to 
1881  was  £1,011,938,  18s.  8d.,  and  the  expenditure 
£993,621,  16s.  Oid.,  while  for  1880-81  the  income  was 
£110,425,  7s.  e^d.,  and  the  expenditure  £112,453, 
16s.  7d.,  the  amount  of  school  fees  and  grant  for  the 
same  period  being  £45,657,  and  the  expenditure  on 
teachers'  salaries  £45,786,  so  that  the  schools  are 
within  £129  of  being  self-supporting.  The  school  rate 
is  4Jd.  per  £.  All  girls  in  Standard  IV.  and  upwards 
now  receive  lessons  in  cookery.  The  total  number  of 
the  teaching  staff  is  at  present  673,  of  which  163  are 
masters,  170  mistresses,  and  the  rest  ex-pupil  teachers, 
pupil  teachers,  and  monitors.  Higher  education  is  given 
in  the  Abbotsford,  Burnbank,  Camden  Street,  Centre 
Street,  City  (boys),  Crookston  Street,  Garnethill,  George 
Street,  Greenside  Street,  Grove  Street,  Henderson 
Street,  Kennedy  Street,  Milton,  Oakbank,  Oatlands, 
Overnewton,  Parkhead,  Rose  Street,  Rumford  Street, 
Sister  Street,  Thomson  Street,  and  Woodside  schools. 
In  upwards  of  20  schools  evening  classes  are  held  every 
year,  through  which  since  1874  over  24,000  scholars 
have  passed.  In  1881-82  the  number  of  schools  open 
is  24,  including  3  for  advanced  pupils,  while  the 
number  of  scholars  on  the  roll  is  5563.  There  are  also 
science  and  art  classes.  When  the  Education  Act  was 
passed  in  1873  there  were  in  Glasgow  87,294  children 
of  school  age. ;  228  schools  with  accommodation  for 
57,290  children,  and  52,644  on  the  rolls;  in  1881 
there  were  86,813  children  of  school  age  ;  166  school.s 
with  accommodation  for  73,150,  and  70,056  on  the 
rolls. 

Miacellaiwous  Public  Schools. — Miller  and  Peadie's 
school  for  girls,  on  the  N  side  of  George  Street,  be- 
tween Montrose  Street  and  Portland  Street,  was  erected 
in  1806  from  funds  bequeathed  in  1790  by  Archibald 
Miller,  for  the  education  and  clothing  of  girls  who  are 
the  children  of  '  reputable '  parents,  and  under  the 
care  of  '  reputable '  people.  They  are  admitted  be- 
tween the  ages  of  eight  and  nine,  and  remain  in  the 
institution  for  four  years.  At  present  there  are  about 
100  girls  in  enjoyment  of  its  privileges.  It  is  managed 
by  the  principal  and  the  professor  of  divinity  in  the  uni- 
versity, the  ministers  of  the  city  parishes,  and  an  elder 
from  each  of  their  kirk-sessions.  The  staff  consists  of  a 
mistress  and  an  assistant.  Wilson's  Charity  School  for 
boys,  in  Montrose  Street,  is  governed  by  the  magis- 
trates, the  city  parish  ministers,  and  fifteen  other  gen- 
tlemen. It  is  conducted  by  a  master  and  two  mis- 
tresses. The  Highland  Society  school  is  in  the  same 
street.  It  has  a  revenue  of  about  £1300  a  year,  and 
atfords  education,  clothing,  and  apprentice  fees  to  sons 
of  indigent  Highlanders.  It  has  an  industrial  depart- 
ment. The  Buchanan  Institution  is  in  Greenhead 
Street.  It  was  founded  by  the  late  James  Buchanan 
for  the  maintenance,  education,  and  industrial  training 
of  destitute  boys.  They  reside  with  their  parents  at 
night,  but  have  three  substantial  meals  daily  at  the 
institution,  and  are  taught  the  elementary  branches  of 

153 


GLASGOW 

knowledge  and  also  the  elements  of  navigation,  gym- 
nastics,  tailoring,   shoemaking,   and  carpentry,    to  fit 
them  for  the  army,  for  the  sea,  or  for  emigration  to  the 
colonies.     It  is  managed  by  directors  chosen  from  the 
Town  Council,  the  Merchants'  House,  and  the  Trades' 
House,  and  has  a  governor,   matron,  and  assistants. 
Alexander's  charity,  in  Duke  Street,  affords  a  gratuitous 
education  to  children  of  the  surname  of  Alexander  or 
Anderson,  children  who  have  constantly  resided  for  three 
years  in  High  Church,  St  John's,  or  College  parishes, 
or  such  children  as  the  governors  may  select  and  appoint. 
The  directors  are  the  lord  provost,  the  magistrates,  and 
the  ministers  of  High  Church,  St  John's,  and  College 
parishes.     The  teaching  staff  consists  of  a  head-master, 
four  male  and  four  female  assistants.     Gardner's  Free 
school  is  in  Balmano  Street,  and  was  founded  in  terms 
of  a  bequest  by  the  late  Moses  Gardner,  to  afford  gratui- 
tous instruction  in  reading,   writing,   and  arithmetic, 
for  three  years  to  thirty-five  boys  and  thirty-five  girls. 
The  patrons  are  the  dean  of  guild,  the  deacon-convener, 
and  eleven  other  gentlemen.      There   is  one   teacher. 
The  Logan  and  Johnston  school,  in  Greenhead  Street, 
was  founded  by  the  late  AVilliam  Logan  and  his  wife, 
Jean  Johnston,   for  the   education,    upbringing,    and 
assistance  in  life  of  poor  or  destitute  step-children  or 
orphans  of  Scottish  extraction,  those  bearing  the  names 
of  Logan  or  Johnston  to  be  preferred.     One  hundred  and 
thirty  girls  receive  instruction  in  the  elementary  branches 
of  education,  and  also  in  knitting  and  serving,  and  each 
of  them  receives  lunch  daily,  and  a  suit  of  clothes,  and 
two  pairs  of  shoes  and  stockings  yearly.     There  is  a 
matron.     There  are  four  directors  from  the  town  council, 
four  from  the   Merchants'  House,    and  four  from  the 
Trades' House,  and  there  are  nine  visitors.     M'Farlane's 
school,  in  Surrey  Street,  Gorbals,  gives  free  education 
in  reading,   writing,   sewing,   and    the    principles    of 
religion,  to  girls  entering  between  eight  and  nine  years 
of  age.     It  has  about  seventy  scholars.     M'Lachlan's 
Free  school,  in  Cathedral  Street,  gives  ample  elementary 
education  to  the  sons  and  daughters  of  poor  but  respect- 
able Highlanders  residing  in  or  near  the  city.     The  at- 
tendance is  about  250,  nearly  equally  divided  between 
boys  and  girls.  Murdoch's  schools,  in  St  Andrews  Square, 
give    instruction  in  reading,   writing,  and   arithmetic, 
and  have  about  500  pupils.     Allan  Glen's  Institution,  at 
the  corner  of  Cathedral  Street  and  North  Hanover  Street, 
was  built  in  1853,  and  enlarged  prior  to  1876  so  as  to 
accommodate  about  140  boys.     It  gave  a  good  pi'actical 
education  to,  and  provided  clothes  for,  sons  of  tradesmen. 
It  sprang  from  a  bequest  which   contemplated  other 
objects,  and  has  a  value  of  about  £350,000,  and  in 
1875-76  the  trustees  applied  to  parliament  for  an  act  to 
empower  them  to  provide  additional  schools,  to  estab- 
lish libraries  and  reading-rooms   in   connection  with 
them,  to  assist  deserving  boys  by  the  foundation   of 
bursaries,  and  to  set  aside  one-fifth  of  the  income  for 
the  assistance  of  the  aged  and  destitute.      Under  the 
act  then  obtained,  the  Institution  has  ceased  to  supply 
gratuitous  elementary  education,  and  now  places  second- 
ary  and  technical  education   within  reach  of  boys  of 
the  middle  classes.     There  are  open  and  covered  play- 
grounds, 6  class-rooms,  a  lecture-room,  a  laboratory,  and 
a  workshop,  with  other  conveniences.     There  is  an  ele- 
mentary  department  with  a  master  and  mistress,   a 
secondary  department  with  3  masters,  and  a  technical 
department    with    7    masters.       The   latter   embraces 
classes  of  experimental  physics,   theoretical  and  prac- 
tical chemistry,  metallurgy,  mathematics,  engineering, 
mechanical  drawing,  modelling  and  practical  workman- 
ship, drawing,  and  French  and  German.     In  the  tech- 
nical department  boys  are  prepared  for  learning  the 
trades  '  whose  mastery  implies  a  considerable  amomit  of 
scientific  and  technical  knowledge  as  well  as  of  manual 
dexterity.'     There  are  100  exhibitions,   partly  for  the 
secondary  and  partly  for  the  technical  department,  and 
the   holders  receive  education,   books,   and  apparatus 
free.     There  are  also  evening  classes  in  the  technical 
subjects  mentioned  above,  and  also  in  steam,  building 
construction   and  drawing,  shading  and  monochrome 
151 


GLASGOW 

painting,  and  French.  The  trustees  are  the  provost, 
dean  of  guild,  deacon-convener,  the  minister  of  the 
cathedral,  9  under  testamentary  disposition,  1  nomi- 
nated by  the  Town  Coxmcil,  1  by  the  Merchants' 
House,  1  by  the  Trades'  House,  and  2  by  the  Univer- 
sity. The  average  number  of  pupils  is  about  300.  The 
fees  range  from  30s.  to  8  guineas  per  session.  The  Graham 
Free  Education  Trust  was  instituted  by  the  late  Mrs 
Graham  or  Lindsay,  who  bequeathed  a  fmid  for  the 
education  of  the  children  of  deserving  parents  bearing 
the  names  of  Graham,  Norrie,  or  Norris.  The  Maxwell 
and  Hutcheson  charitable  trust  was  founded  in  1877 
under  the  will  of  Miss  Ann  Maxwell  Graham  of 
Williamwood,  for  the  benefit  of  decayed  gentlefolks 
of  the  names  of  Maxwell  and  Hutcheson,  or  their  hus- 
bands, wives,  or  descendants,  and  also  for  the  education 
of  their  children.  There  are  seven  trustees  in  Glasgow. 
The  Glasgow  Deaf  and  Dumb  Institution  was  com- 
menced under  the  same  auspices,  and  on  the  same 
system  as  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Institution  at  Edinbtjegh, 
and  became  at  an  early  period  of  its  career  distin- 
guished for  its  gi-eat  efficiency  and  success.  It  long 
occupied  a  plain  house  a  short  distance  NW  of  the 
cathedral,  but  in  1870  removed  to  its  present  home  at 
Prospect  Bank,  Crossbill,  in  a  fine  Venetian  building 
close  to  the  Queen's  Park.  The  structure  is  240  feet 
long  and  150  wide,  and  has  beautiful  surroundings  and 
excellent  internal  arrangements.  The  number  of  pupils 
is  about  200,  and  the  income  and  expenditure  amount 
to  about  £2000  a  year.  Strangers  are  admitted  on 
Wednesdays  at  2  p.m. 

Reformatories.  — The  House  of  Refuge  and  Reformatory 
for  Boys,  for  the  reception  of  juvenile  thieves  and  of 
ueglectecl  children,  and  for  giving  them  a  good  educa- 
tion and  training  them  to  self-support,  is  in  Duke 
Street,  and  was  built  in  1836-38  at  a  cost  of  £13,000 
raised  by  subscription.  It  is  a  large  building  in  the 
Italian  style.  It  was  for  a  time  entirely-  dependent 
on  voluntary  contributions,  but  came  eventually  to 
receive  support  from  an  assessment  imposed  by  Act  of 
Parliament,  and  is  governed,  along  with  the  other 
reformatories  and  industrial  schools,  by  a  board  of  12 
commissioners  and  37  directors,  appointed  under  the 
Glasgow  Juvenile  Delinquency  Prevention  and  Repres- 
sion Act  passed  in  1878.  It  has  usually  about  300 
inmates.  The  Girls'  House  of  Refuge  and  Reformatory 
originated  later,  but  is  under  the  same  management 
and  intended  for  the  same  purposes  as  the  reformatory 
for  boys.  The  building  was  originally  in  Parliamentary 
Road,  was  thence  moved  to  Reddrie,  and  new  premises 
were  again  opened  in  October  1882  at  East  Chapelton, 
about  3  miles  NW  of  Glasgow.  This  is  an  Italian 
building  of  two  stories,  with  a  frontage  of  78  feet,  and 
side  wings  running  back  for  82i  feet.  On  the  lower 
flat  are  the  school-rooms,  work-rooms,  dining-room, 
kitchen,  and  the  matron's  room  ;  while  on  the  upper 
story  are  two  large  dormitories,  sick-room,  lavatory,  and 
other  accommodation.  In  outbuildings  are  a  washing- 
house,  laundry,  and  dairy.  There  is  accommodation  for 
60  girls,  and  the  total  cost  including  site  was  £9570. 
There  are  at  present  only  25  inmates,  and  according  to 
the  blue  book  the  institution  is  the  most  economically 
managed  in  the  whole  kingdom,  and  it  is  calculated  that 
about  70  per  cent,  of  the  girls  turn  out  well.  The 
Juvenile  Delinquency  Board  have  also  the  management 
of  an  industrial  school  for  boys,  an  industrial  school 
for  girls,  and  a  day  industrial  school,  all  of  which  pro- 
vide food,  education,  religious  instruction,  and  industrial 
training  for  destitute  children,  whether  admitted  on 
private  application  or  under  a  magistrate's  wari'ant. 
The  first  is  at  Mossbank,  Hogganfield,  on  the  S  side  of 
the  Caledonian  railway.  It  was  erected  in  1869,  and 
was  burned  down  in  1873,  the  loss  being  estimated  at 
£14,000,  but  it  was  rebuilt  in  1874-75,  and  is  a  large 
well-arranged  edifice.  There  are  generally  about  450 
inmates.  The  Girls'  Industrial  School  was  originally  in 
Rottenrow,  but  has  now  been  transferred  to  buildings  at 
Maryhill.  The  number  of  girls  in  it  is  on  an  average 
about  200.      About  75  per  cent,  of  both  boys  and  girls 


GLASGOW 

-are  found  to  do  well  after  leaving.  The  inoome  and 
expenditure  of  both  institutions  amount  to  about 
£10,000  per  annum.  The  Day  Industrial  School  is  in 
Green  Street.  Since  the  institution  of  these  schools, 
there  has  been  a  gradual  decrease  in  the  number  of 
juvenile  offenders  and  destitute  children  dealt  vnth 
by  the  police.  In  1881-82  the  income  of  the  Commis- 
sioners under  the  Act  of  1878  was  £9833,  15s.  7d.,  and 
the  expenditure  £9233,  10s.  lid. 

Parishes  mid  Parochial  Affairs. — The  whole  of  Glas- 
gow on  the  N"  side  of  the  Clyde,  with  a  considerable 
landward  tract  around  it,  formed  at  the  time  of  the 
Reformation  only  one  ]iarish.  though  the  cathedral  was 
in  1588  made  a  collegiate  charge.  In  1592  the  church 
of  St  Mary  and  St  Anne,  now  the  Trongate,  was  re- 
paired and  a  third  minister  was  added.  In  1595  a 
fourth  was  added,  who  officiated  in  the  crypt  of  the 
cathedi-al  known  as  the  Laigh  Kirk  ;  and  in  1596  the 
landward  portion  above  alluded  to  was  set  apart  for  this 
last  minister  as  a  separate  parish,  and  was  called  the 
Barony.  This  quadruple  division  of  parishes  lasted  till 
1701,  when  other  two  were  added,  and  thereafter  divi- 
sions still  went  on  till  the  original  city  parish  of  the 
Higli  Church  had  been  divided  into  the  ten  parishes  of 
Inner  High  or  St  Mungo's,  the  Outer  High  or  St  Paul's, 
St  Andrew's,  St  David's  or  Ramshorn,  St  Enoch's,  St 
George's,  St  James',  St  John's,  St  Mary's  or  Tron,  and 
Blackfriars  or  College,  which  constitute  what  are  now 
known  as  the  City  Churches  and  City  parishes,  the  main- 
tenance of  which  costs  the  city  about  £2200  a  year, 
which  is  generally  supposed  to  be  provided  from  the 
common  good,  but  it  is  just  possible  that  if  all  the  funds 
bequeathed  of  old  to  the  corporation  were  thoroughly 
investigated,  less  of  this  sum  than  is  imagined  might  be 
found  to  come  from  that  source.  Modern  Glasgow  is 
quoad  sacra  divided  into  a  large  number  of  parishes,  as 
will  be  seen  in  the  section  on  ecclesiastical  affairs,  but 
quoad  civilia  it  is  included  almost  entirely  within  the 
IBarony,  City,  and  Govan  parishes.  On  the  N  side  of 
the  river,  beginning  at  the  E  end,  tlie  parish  of 
Shettleston  extends  along  the  river  to  the  municipal 
boundary,  from  the  river  to  Shettleston  Sheddings, 
then  on  to  Cumbernauld  Eoad  and  along  Cumbernauld 
Road.  iSfW  of  this  is  the  parish  of  Springburn,  whicli 
extends  from  the  line  of  Cumbernauld  Road  and  Duke 
Street,  along  the  W  side  of  the  Necropolis,  the  E  side 
of  Sighthill  Cemetery,  and  northwards  by  Keppochhill 
and  Springburn.  It  contains  three  detached  portions 
of  the  Barony,  at  Broomfield,  Mile-End,  and  Jlilton.  E 
of  the  municipal  boundary  at  Shettleston  Sheddings, 
bounded  on  the  S  by  Great  Eastern  Road,  and  on 
the  W  by  an  irregular  line  drawn  from  Bluevale  Road 
to  Camlachie  Foundry,  is  a  detached  portion  of  the 
Barony.  Adjoining  Springburn  on  the  W  is  Mary- 
hill,  which  is  bounded  on  the  S  by  the  canal,  from  the 
E  end  of  Garngad  Road  to  near  Napiershall.  There 
the  boundary  turns  to  the  W,  crosses  Garscube  Road, 
and  passes  along  Well  Road,  and  SE  to  the  junc- 
tion of  New  City  Eoad  and  Great  "Western  Road  ;  along 
which  it  runs  as  far  as  the  Kelvin,  where  it  turns  NW 
following  the  line  of  the  stream.  The  parish  of  Cal- 
ton  extends  from  the  municipal  boundary  at  the  E,  and 
adjoins  Shettleston.  Its  limits  are  the  municipal  line 
from  the  river  as  far  as  Great  Eastern  Road  ;  then  along 
this  road  to  Crownpoint  Street,  along  Crowupoint  Road, 
Abercrombie  Street,  Millroad  Street,  King  Street,  in  an 
irregular  line  to  Great  Hamilton  Street,  along  which  it 
runs  irregularly  till  it  reaches  the  edge  of  the  Green  at 
the  washing-house.  It  then  proceeds  by  Greenhead 
Street,  and  New  Hall  Terrace,  to  the  river,  which  is  the 
boundary  back  to  the  original  starting  point.  The  City 
parish  follows  this  line  reversed,  from  Newhall  Terrace, 
to  the  corner  of  Great  Eastern  Road  near  Camlachie 
Foundry,  then  goes  irregularly  to  a  point  in  Duke 
Street,  near  the  corner  of  Bluevale  Street,  along  Duke 
Street  to  John  Knox  Street  then  along  AVright  Street, 
and  from  that  in  an  irregular  line  N  to  the  canal.  The 
boundary  turns  along  the  canal  to  a  point  opposite  the 
old  fever  hospital,  and  thence  back  in  an  irregular  line 


GLASGOW 

to  the  corner  of  Castle  Street  and  Garngad  Hill,  then 
along  Castle  Street,  Glebe  Street,  Albert  Street,  and 
behind  St  Mungo  Street  to  Stirling  Road,  along  which 
it  passes  to  St  James'  Road,  and  along  St  James'  Road 
to  M'Auslan  Street,  then  along  it  to  Parliamentary 
Road  ;  from  this  it  proceeds  in  an  irregular  line  down 
West  Nile  Street  to  Argyle  Street,  along  which  it 
turns  westward  to  a  point  midway  between  M 'Alpine 
Street  and  Washington  Street,  where  it  turns  straight 
down  to  the  river,  and  oack  along  the  river  to  the  SE 
corner  of  the  Green.  The  SE  boundary  of  the  main 
part  of  the  Barony  is  the  line  just  given  from  the  point  on 
the  canal  opposite  the  old  fever  hospital  to  the  point  on 
the  river,  midway  between  M'Alpine  Street  and  Wash- 
ington Street,  from  that  the  line  follows  the  river  down 
to  the  shipbuilding  yard  at  the  E  side  of  the  mouth 
of  the  Kelvin.  It  passes  along  the  E  and  N  sides 
of  the  yard  to  the  river  Kelvin,  up  which  it  turns 
to  the  Great  Western  Road,  and  then  passes  along  Great 
Western  Road  by  an  irregular  line  passing  from  the 
corner  of  Scotia  Street  and  New  City  Road  to  the  corner 
of  Cowcaddens,  and  then  along  Ann  Street  to  the 
canal.  Between  this  line  from  the  junction  of  New 
City  Road  and  the  canal  is  a  detached  portion  of  the 
City  parish,  measuring  7  furlongs  by  3,  and  a  detached 
portion  of  the  Barony,  measuring  3  by  1-i  furlongs  E  of 
New  City  Road  at  Hophill  Street.  From  the  line  of  the 
Kelvin  the  parish  of  Govan  sweeps  W  and  S,  crossing 
the  river  and  extending  up  the  S  side  as  far  as  ilalls 
Mire  Burn,  beyond  which  is  the  parish  of  Rutherglen. 
Shawlands  and  PoUokshaws  are  in  the  parish  of  East- 
wood, and  Queen's  Park  and  Crossbill  in  that  of  Cathcart, 
which  are  still  farther  S. 

The  Parochial  Boards  for  the  city  are  the  City,  the 
Barony,  and  Govan  Combination,  the  amounts  received 
by  which  were  in  1881  respectively,  £154,257,  19s. 
li^d.  from  assessments,  and  £31,372,  16s.  8d.  from 
other  sources.  The  City  Parochial  Board  consists  of 
5  representatives  from  each  of  the  1st,  2d,  3d,  4th,  and 
5th  wards  of  the  city ;  4  members  nominated  by  the 
magistrates,  and  4  members  nominated  by  kirk-sessions. 
Some  sort  of  poor-rate  must  have  been  levied  in  Glasgow 
from  1595,  for  we  find  that  in  that  year  a  committee  of 
the  general  kirk-session  was  appointed  to  consider  who 
were  able  to  contribute  for  the  relief  of  the  poor,  and  in 

1638  we  find  that  the  poor  had,  during  the  sitting  of 
the  General  Assembly,  been  kept  off  the  streets,  an 
arrangement  which  so  delighted  the  magistrates,  that 
they  determined  that  the  inhabitants  should  be  stented 
or  taxed  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  them  always  off  the 
street  (as  beggars  presumably),  and  maintaining  them 
in  their  houses,  and  this  plan  was  carried  out,  for  in 

1639  all  who  had  not  paid  were  to  have  their  goods 
seized  to  double  the  value,  and  were  to  have  their 
names  proclaimed  in  church;  and  in  1697  it  was  further 
determined  to  augment  the  assessment  by  church -door 
collections.  In  1774,  however,  the  kirk-session  found 
they  were  no  longer  equal  to  the  demands  made  on  them, 
and  on  this  being  intimated  to  the  council,  the  latter 
appointed  15  assessors  who  were  to  impose  a  rate  to 
produce  £1305,  10s.  lOM.,  and  this  board  was  the  fore- 
runner of  parochial  boards.  The  first  poorhouse  that 
existed  in  the  city  was  erected  in  1733  on  a  site  in  Clyde 
Street,  near  the  present  St  Andrew's  Roman  Catholic 
Church.  It  was  built  at  the  joint  expense  of  the  Town 
Council,  General  Session,  Merchants'  House,  and  Trades' 
House.  It  was  meant  for  152  inmates  according  to 
M'Ure,  who  declares  that  it  was  finer  than  any  other 
hospital  in  the  world  except  Heriot's  Hospital  in  Edin- 
burgh. The  present  City  Poorhouse  or  Town's  Hospital 
is  an  irregularly  disposed  pile  of  buildings  near  the  W 
end  of  Parliamentary  Road.  It  was  originally  built  for 
the  Royal  Lunatic  Asylum,  but  passed  by  sale  to  the 
City  Parish  Parochial  Board  in  1843  for  £15,000,  when 
the  Asylum  was  removed  to  Gartnavel.  The  main 
buildings  are  a  spacious  octagonal  structure  with  four 
radiating  wings  and  a  central  dome.  There  is  accom- 
modation for  1587  inmates,  and  it  contains  on  an 
average  about  1000  paupers,   of   whom  about  i  are 

155 


GLASGOW 

generally  lunatics.  It  is  exolusiYely  for  the  use  of  the 
City  parish. 

The  Barony  Parochial  Board  consists  of  7  ratepayers 
from  the  1st  ward,  6  from  the  2d,  5  from  the  3d,  and 

3  from  the  4th  ;  4  members  of  Barony  kirk-session,  and 

4  commissioners  of  supply.  The  poorhouse  is  a  hand- 
some block  arranged  round  two  quadrangles,  and  with 
two  projecting  wings  and  detached  governor's  house  and 
outbuUdings.  It  is  at  Barnhill  near  Springburn,  NE 
of  Glasgow,  stands  within  extensive  grounds,  and  has 
accommodation  for  1348  inmates,  and  contains  on  an 
average  1100  paupers.  The  lunatic  asylum  for  the 
Barony  parish  is  an  extensive  range  of  buildings  recently 
erected  at  Lenzie,  on  the  N  side  of,  and  close  to  the 
North  British  line  near  Lenzie  Junction  station. 

Tlie  Govan  Combination  Parochial  Board  consists  of 

5  representatives  from  the  eastern  district,  4  from  the 
central  district,  6  from  the  western  district,  5  from  the 
Govan  district,  5  from  the  Partick  district,  4  from 
Govan  kirk-session,  and  4  from  Gorbals  kirk-session. 
The  poorhouse  was  originally  in  the  old  cavalry  barracks 
in  Gorbals,  but  was  removed  in  1872  to  new  buildings 
at  Merryflat  on  the  Renfrew  Road,  SE  of  Govan,  under 
which  it  is  noticed. 

Registration. — For  registration  purposes,  Glasgow  is 
now  divided  into  14  registration  districts.  Prior  to 
1875  there  were  10,  viz. : — Central,  High  Church, 
Bridgeton,  Calton,  Clyde,  Blythswood,  Milton,  Ander- 
ston,  Tradeston,  HutcliesontoTs-n ;  but  in  that  year  they 
were  rearranged,  and  the  district  divided  into  the  Bridge- 
ton,  Camlachie,  Dennistoun,  Calton,  Blackfriars,  St 
Eollox,  Blythswood,  Milton,  Kelvin,  Anderston,  Hut- 
chesontown,  Tradeston,  Gorbals,  and  Kinning  Park 
districts.  The  population  in  these  separately  will  be 
found  in  a  subsequent  section.  The  registrars  are  ap- 
pointed by  the  town  council. 

Ecclesiastical  Affairs. — Estahlislicd  Churches. — The 
early  division  of  Glasgow  ecclesiastically  has  been 
noticed  in  the  last  section,  and  since  the  division  there 
mentioned  many  divisions  into  quoad  sacra  parishes 
have  taken  place  in  City,  Barony,  and  Govan  parishes, 
as  well  as  in  Calton  and  the  parts  of  Springbixrn  and 
Maryhill  adjoining  the  city,  till  there  are  now  in  the 
city  and  suburbs  66  charges  and  18  mission  churches, 
a  number  of  which  are  at  present  in  course  of  conver- 
sion into  separate  charges.  The  original  City  parish, 
which  comprised  988 '624  acres,  has  now  been  carved 
into  the  Inner  High,  the  Robertson  Memorial,  St 
Paul's,  St  James',  St  George's,  St  Andrew's,  St  David's, 
St  Enoch's,  St  John's,  Tron  (St  Mary's),  Blackfriars 
(College),  St  Peter's,  Chalmers'  Memorial,  and  Bridge- 
gate  quoad  sacra  parishes ;  while  St  George's-in-the- 
Fields  is  in  the  detached  portion  of  tlie  City  parish 
on  the  SW.  Macleod  and  Martyrs'  have  been  formed 
partly  from  the  City  parish  and  partly  from  Barony. 
Barony  itself,  which  comprised  3295 '612  acres,  has 
been  broken  up  into  Barony  (attached  to  the  church), 
Kelvinhaugh,  Sandyford,  Park,  St  Vincent's,  Ander- 
ston, St  Mark's,  St  Matthew's,  Blythswood,  St 
Stephen's,  Milton,  Port  Dundas,  St  Columba's  (all 
in  the  part  W  of  the  City  parish),  and  Bluevale 
and  Parkhead  (in  the  detached  portion  E  of  the  City 
parish).  Govan  has  been  split  up  into  Govan  (proper), 
Hillhead,  Partick,  St  Mary's  (Partick),  Dean  Park, 
Bellahouston,  Plantation,  Kinning  Park,  Maxwell, 
PoUokshields,  Kingston,  Govanhill,  Abbotsford,  Laurie- 
ston,  Gorbals,  Hutchesontown,  and  St  Bernard's.  The 
parish  of  Queen's  Park  to  the  S  has  been  formed  partly 
from  Govan,  but  mostly  from  Cathcart.  Calton,  SE  of 
the  City  parish,  has  been  divided  into  Calton  (proper), 
St  Luke's,  Newlands,  Greenhead,  Barrowfield,  Bridge- 
ton,  Newhall,  and  St  Thomas.  Springburn  has  had 
cut  off  from  its  SW  corner  the  parishes  of  Wellpark 
and  Townhead. 

The  Cathedral. — The  parent  church  of  Glasgow,  the 
catliedral,  is  particularly  interesting  as  being,  along 
with  the  churches  at  Kirkwall  and  Old  Aberdeen,  one  of 
the  few  perfect  examples  of  early  architecture  which  the 
zeal  of  the  Reformers  and  the  more  praiseworthy,  but 
156 


GLASGOW 

equally  objectionable,  zeal  of  the  early  restorers  of  the 
present  century  have  left  for  us  in  anything  like  the 
original  condition.  Like  all  cathedral  churches  the 
form  is  that  of  a  Latin  cross,  with  nave,  aisles,  tran- 
septs, choir,  lady-chapel,  crypt,  and  chapter-house. 
Here  the  outline  has  rather  an  unwonted  bareness 
arising  from  the  fact  that  the  transepts,  owing  to  the 
non-completion  of  the  original  design,  project  but  so 
slightly  beyond  the  aisles  that  the  long  straight  sweep 
of  the  side  walls  is  hardly  broken  by  them  at  all. 
That  they  were  intended  to  project  farther  is  evident 
from  the  Blackadder  crypt,  which  would  have  afforded 
support  to  a  S  transept.  The  style  is  Early  English, 
and  all  competent  authorities  are  agreed  that  the  build- 
ing is  a  very  fine  example  of  that  period.  The  best 
views  of  the  exterior  are  to  be  had  from  the  SE  corner 
and  from  the  Bridge  of  Sighs  leading  to  the  Necropolis. 
The  entire  length  of  the  building  is  319  feet,  the  breadth 
63  feet,  and  the  height  90  feet ;  while  at  the  junction  of 
the  nave  and  transepts  a  massive  square  tower  with 
octagonal  spii-e  rises  to  a  height  of  225  feet.  This 
central  tower  measures  30  feet  each  way  in  the  base- 
ment, and  rises  about  30  feet  above  the  lofty  roof  of  the 
nave  and  choir.  It  presents  a  four-light  window  on 
each  of  its  faces,  and  terminates  in  a  balustrade  with 
pinnacles  at  the  corners,  while  the  spire  rises  in  four  suc- 
cessive stages,  with  ornamental  bands  between.  The 
aisles  are  narrow  but  lofty,  and  have  a  row  of  windows 
with  double  muUions.  The  clerestory  windows  are  much 
the  same,  but  have  not  all  double  muUions.  Over  the 
principal  doorway  at  the  W  end  is  the  great  western 
window,  witli  four  openings  separated  by  beautifully 
carved  mnllions,  and  the  great  windows  of  the  N  and  S 
transepts  are  much  the  same.  There  are  massive  but- 
tresses all  round.  On  the  wall  above  the  spaces  between 
is  a  line  of  gorgoils,  each  showing  a  monstrous  month, 
with  a  grotesque  face  sculptured  on  the  under  side. 
However  bare  may  be  the  look  of  the  exterior  all  idea 
of  such  a  feeling  vanishes  at  once  on  reaching  the  interior, 
and  taking  in  at  one  glance  the  whole  majestic  sweep  of 
the  nave,  which  is  155  feet  in  length,  30  in  breadth  be- 
tween the  columns,  and  90  high.  On  each  side  is  a  series 
of  seven  elegant,  but  massive,  clustered  columns  support- 
ing the  triforium,  and  above  this  is  a  row  of  clerestory 
windows.  At  the  intersection  of  the  nave,  transepts, 
and  choir  are  four  pillars  supporting  the  arches  of  the 
tower,  and  from  the  angles  groins  spring  towards  the 
centre,  leaving  there,  however,  a  circular  opening  for 
the  purpose  of  raising  heavy  materials  or  bells  to 
the  upper  part  of  the  tower.  Up  till  1835  a  parti- 
tion wall  of  rough  masonry,  constructed  in  1648,  ; 
cut  the  nave  in  two  from  N  to  S,  and  the  western  sec-  | 
tion  was  fitted  up  as  a  cliurch  for  the  congregation 
of  the  Outer  High  parish.  This  was,  however,  re- 
moved, together  with  the  fittings  of  the  church,  on 
the  erection  of  the  new  church  of  St  Paul's,  and  the 
nave  is  now  once  more  to  be  seen  in  all  its  original 
grandeur.  At  the  E  end  of  tlie  nave  beneath  the  arches 
supporting  tlie  tower  is  a  richly  carved  roodscreen 
separating  the  nave  and  clioir.  On  either  side  are 
niches  and  flights  of  steps  with  carved  balustrade  leading 
to  the  crypt.  In  the  centre  is  a  low  elliptic-arched  door- 
way, through  which  a  flight  of  steps  leads  to  the  higher 
level  of  the  choir,  which  is  127  feet  long,  30  wide 
between  the  columns,  and  about  80  high.  On  each 
side  are  five  arches  supported  on  clustered  pillars,  with 
beautiful  and  richly  carved  capitals  witli  the  usual 
foliage  designs,  and  each  differing  from  all  the  others. 
In  the  restoration  operations  carried  out  previous  to 
1856,  this  portion  of  the  building  was  judiciously  and 
successfully  altered.  The  old  unseemly  seats  and 
galleries  were  removed,  and  their  place  supplied  by 
richly-carved  oak  fittings  in  the  modern  cathedral  style ; 
and  a  fine  pulpit  constructed  from  the  old  oak  beams  of 
the  roof  now  occupies  the  site  of  the  high  altar.  The 
floor  is  executed  in  tesselated  tUe-work.  During  the 
restoration  operations  the  grave  of  one  of  the  old 
bishops  was  found  near  the  site  of  the  high  altar.  The 
remains,  which  were  possibly  those  of  Bishop  Joceline, 


GLASGOW 


GLASGOW 


had  been  wrapped  in  a  cloth  embroidered  with  gold, 
some  of  which  still  adhered  to  the  bones. 

At  the  E  end  of  the  choir  is  the  Lady  chapel,  which 
is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  parts  of  the  building.  Exter- 
nally it  is  a  low  flat-roofed  building  resting  on  the  eastern 
part  of  the  crypt.  Internally  there  is  a  profusion  of  ela- 
borate ornament,  while  the  columns  consist  of  clusters  of 
slender  and  graceful  shafts,  with  richly  carved  and  beau- 
tiful capitals.  It  contains  a  monument  to  the  Protestant 
Archbishop  Law  (1615-32).  Opening  from  the  N  side 
of  the  Lady  chapel  is  the  chapter-house.  It  also  rests 
on  the  crypt,  but  it  is  crowned  by  a  high-pitched  roof. 
The  interior  is  28  feet  square,  with  the  roof  supported 
by  a  central  pillar,  on  which  are  the  arms  of  the  founder. 
Bishop  Lauder  (1408-1425).  The  floor  is  now  laid  with 
tesselated  tile-work,  and  all  round  are  oak  seats.  Be- 
neath the  buildings  just  described  is  a  series  of  mag- 
nificent crypts,  forming  in  themselves  a  beautiful  and 
perfect  structure.  These,  which  vary  very  much  in 
height,  extend  beneath  the  choir,  the  Lady  chapel,  the 
chapter-house,  and  beyond  the  S  transept.  The  portion 
under  the  first  two  is  known  as  Joceline's  crypt,  that 
under  the  chapter-house  as  Lauder's  crypt,  and  that 
under  the  unfinished  S  transept  as  Blackadder's  crypt. 
The  latter  has  the  roof  supported  by  three  richly  clus- 
tered columns  with  fine  capitals,  and  exhibits  some  of 
the  best  Avork  in  the  whole  cathedral,  while  all  three 
show  such  solidity  of  construction,  such  richness  of 
groining,  and  such  beauty  of  detail  in  the  pillars  and 
varied  capitals,  as  render  them  artistically  of  the  highest 
value,  and  the  finest  thing  of  the  kind  in  the  kingdom. 
The  crypt  known  as  Blackadder's,  under  the  S  transept, 
ought  more  properly  to  be  called  Fergus'  aisle  or  crypt, 
for  it  seems  to  have  been  dedicated  to  the  Fergus  whose 
body  St  Mungo  brought  with  him  to  Cathures ;  Mr  Mac- 
george  having  pointed  out  that  on  a  stone  iu  the  roof 
over  the  entrance  is  carved  a  rude  representation  of  the 
dead  saint  extended  on  a  vehicle,  and  beside  it  the  in- 
scription cut  in  long  Gothic  letters,  '  this  is  the  ile  of 
car  fergus.'  At  the  E  end  of  Joceline's  crypt  on  a  raised 
platform  is  a  tomb  with  headless  and  handless  recum- 
bent efiigy,  which  tradition,  mthout  the  slightest 
grounds,  indicates  as  the  tomb  of  St  Mungo  himself. 
■There  are  also  two  stone  coffins,  one  of  them  with  a 
shamrock  round  the  margin,  dug  up  within  the  build- 
ing, and  believed  to  be  as  old  as  the  6th  century.  In 
the  SE  corner  is  a  well  24  feet  deep,  and  with  3  to 
4  feet  of  water  in  it,  known  as  St  Mungo's  Well. 
It  was  supposed  to  possess  special  healing  qualities. 
Originally  a  place  of  sepulture,  the  crypt  became  after 
the  Reformation,  as  we  have  already  seen,  the  church  of 
the  Barony  parish,  and  from  that  time  till  the  begin- 
ning of  the  present  century  it  was  one  of  the  most 
extraordinary  places  of  wor.?hip  in  the  country.  Sir 
Walter  Scott  in  Mob  Boy  makes  it  the  meeting-place '  of 
the  outlaw  himself  and  Francis  Osbaldistone.  '  We 
entered,"  he  makes  Francis  say,  'a  small,  low-arched 
door,  secured  by  a  wicket,  which  a  grave-looking  person 
seemed  on  the  point  of  closing,  and  descended  several 
steps  as  if  into  the  funeral  vaults  beneath  the  church. 
It  was  even  so  ;  for  in  these  subterranean  precincts — 
why  chosen  for  such  a  purpose  I  know  not — was  estab- 
lished a  very  singular  place  of  worship.  Conceive  an 
extensive  range  of  low-browed,  dark,  and  twilight  vaults, 
such  as  are  used  for  sepulchres  in  other  countries,  and 
had  long  been  dedicated  to  the  same  purpose  in  this,  a 
portion  of  which  was  seated  with  pews  and  used  as  a 
church.  The  part  of  the  vaults  thus  occupied,  though 
capable  of  containing  a  congregation  of  many  hundreds, 
bore  a  small  proportion  to  the  darker  and  more  extensive 
caverns  which  yawned  around  what  may  be  termed  the 
inhabited  space.  In  those  waste  regions  of  oblivion, 
dusky  banners  and  tattered  escutcheons  indicated  the 
graves  of  those  who  were  doubtless  "princes  in  Israel." 
.  .  .  Surrounded  by  these  receptacles  of  the  last 
remains  of  mortality,  I  found  a  numerous  congregation 
engaged  in  the  act  of  prayer.'  After  the  erection  of  a 
separate  church  for  the  Barony  congregation  in  1801  the 
crypts  again  became  a  place  of  burial,  and  acquired  such 


an  unsightly  condition,  that  the  shafts  of  the  fine 
columns  were  covered  to  a  deptli  of  5  feet  by  the  ac- 
cumulation of  debris,  while  the  walls  were  daubed  over 
with  marks  of  grief — a  state  of  matters  which  lasted  till 
about  1835. 

After  the  restoration  operations  had  been  completed 
in  1856,  a  proposal  was  made  to  fill  the  windows  of  the 
cathedral  with  stained  glass,  and  this  was  taken  up  so 
readily  by  a  large  and  influential  body  of  subscribers 
that  in  1859  the  first  window  was  placed  in  the  church, 
and  in  1864  all  the  windows  were  filled  except  those  in 
the  clerestory,  and  that,  too,  has  now  been  partially  accom- 
plished. In  all  there  are  113  windows  thus  filled — 44 
in  the  nave,  transepts,  choir,  and  Lady  chapel,  14  in  the 
clerestory,  7  in  the  chapter-house,  27  in  Joceline's  crypt, 
12  in  Lauder's  crypt,  and  9  in  Blackadder's  crypt.  The 
great  E  window  was  furnished  by  the  Queen,  the  great 
W  window  by  the  Bairds  of  Gartsherrie,  and  the  N  and 
S  transept  windows  by  respectively  the  late  Duke  of 
Hamilton  and  JIrs  Cecilia  Douglas  of  Orbiston.  These 
represent  iu  order  (1.)  the  four  Evangelists;  (2.)  the 
giving  of  the  Law  ;  the  entrance  into  the  Promised 
Land  ;  the  dedication  of  the  Temple,  and  the  captivity 
of  Babylon  ;  (3.)  the  prophets  Moses,  Isaiah,  Jeremiah, 
Ezekiel,  Malachi,  and  John  the  Baptist;  (4.)  in  the 
lower  divisions  Noah  issuing  from  the  Ark,  the  gather- 
ing of  manna,  Melchisedec  ofl'ering  bread  and  wine, 
Isaac  ascending  Mount  Moriah  with  the  wood  of  sacri- 
fice, and  the  priest  offering  the  first  fruits  ;  and,  in  the 
corresponding  compartments  above,  Christ  baptised, 
Christ  the  true  bread  from  heaven,  Christ  instituting 
the  Sacrament,  Christ  bearing  His  cross  to  Calvary,  and 
Christ  rising  from  the  dead.  The  other  windows  have 
been  contributed  by  various  donors,  whose  names  are 
inscribed  on  them.  The  windows  in  the  nave  begin- 
ning at  the  NW  angle  contain  a  series  of  Old  Testa- 
ment characters  in  chronological  order  ;  the  choir,  illus- 
trations of  the  parables  and  precepts  of  Christ ;  the  Lady 
chapel,  the  apostles ;  the  chapter-house,  acts  of  charity 
and  mercy  ;  Joceline's  crypt  and  Blackadder's  crypt, 
various  scriptm'al  incidents  mainly  relating  to  the  life  of 
Christ ;  and  two  showing  King  Rhydderch,  St  Mungo, 
and  St  Columba,  and  Archbishops  Boyd,  Burnet,  and 
Paterson  ;  while  Lauder's  crypt  has  a  series  of  repre- 
sentations of  angels  bearing  emblems  of  Christ  and  the 
Evangelists.  A  large  number  of  the  windows  have  been 
executed  at  the  royal  glass-painting  factory  at  Munich, 
but  a  few  have  been  executed  in  London  and  Edinburgh. 
The  fine  organ  was  made  in  London,  and  was  erected 
in  1880,  having  been  presented  by  the  minister  of  the 
church,  the  Rev.  Dr  Burns. 

In  dealing  with  the  bishops  in  the  historical  section, 
notice  has  already  been  taken  of  the  early  history  of  the 
cathedral.  Mr  Honeyman,  in  his  Age  of  Glasgow 
Cathedral,  is  of  opinion  that  the  only  portion  of  the 
building  of  1197  is  a  small  pillar  and  part  of  the  vault- 
ing in  the  SW  corner  of  the  crypt,  and  the  probability 
is  that  the  present  building  was  commenced  by  Bishop 
Bondington  (1233-68),  in  whose  time  the  crypt  and 
choir  were  completed.  The  building  was  still  unfinished 
in  1277,  in  Wyschard's  time,  and  the  erection  of  the 
steeple  was  begun  by  Bishop  Lauder,  and  continued  and 
probably  completed  by  Bishop  Cameron.  The  date  of 
the  nave  cannot  be  determined,  but  it  was  probably 
built  subsequently  to  the  crypt  and  choir.  At  the  NW 
end  of  the  nave  there  was  formerly  a  massive  and  im- 
posing square  tower  120  feet  high,  and  having  on  each 
side  near  the  top  two  fine  endows,  with  rounded  arches, 
and  also  some  grotesque  sculptures  now  lying  in  the 
crypt.  At  the  SW  corner  was  another  erection  not 
carried  up  into  a  tower  but  finished  with  gables.  It 
was  called  the  consistory  house,  and  was  probably  of 
the  same  date  as  the  tower  opposite,  the  lower  stage  of 
which  Mr  Billings  regarded  as  forming,  along  with  tho 
AV  door  of  the  nave,  the  oldest  part  of  the  whole 
building.  The  consistory  house  was  picturesque  and 
interesting,  but,  this  notwithstanding,  and  though  both 
it  and  the  tower  were  in  a  perfect  state  of  preservation, 
they  were  in  1854  removed  by  order  of  Her  Majesty's 

157 


GLASGOW 

First  Commissioner  of  Works  as  excrescences  on  the 
original  building — a  removal  which,  notwithstanding 
all  that  has  been  alleged  to  the  contrary,  must,  we  fear, 
be  regarded  as  an  act  of  great  barbarity  and  vandalism. 
The  buildings  were  old  enough  and  intimately  enough 
associated  with  the  history  and  original  design  of  the 
cathedral  to  have  inspired  greater  reverence,  and,  be- 
sides, Mr  Macgeorge  asserts,  and  probably  rightly,  that 
'  the  tower  was  really  essential  to  the  proper  balance  of 
the  structure. ' 

Soon  after  the  Reformation  the  cathedral  was  'purged' 
of  all  its  altars,  images,  and  other  appendages  that 
might  remind  the  people  of  the  old  ritual  and  worship  ; 
and  so  zealous  or  rather  fui'ious  were  the  Reformers  in 
this  work  of  purification,  that  they  also  swept  away  all 
the  monuments  which  had  been  erected  not  only  to 
patriotic  prelates,  but  to  eminent  laymen,  with  the  single 
exception  of  the  tomb  of  the  Stewarts  of  Minto,  a 
family  which  had  supplied  provosts  and  magistrates  to 
the  city  through  several  generations.  Though  this 
insane  destruction  was  not  altogether  the  work  of  a 
rabble  glorying  in  mischief  under  any  pretext,  it  is  but 
fair  to  state  that  the  government,  in  issuing  an  order  for 
the  destruction  of  all  'monuments  of  idolatry,'  strongly 
enjoined  the  preservation  of  the  buildings  themselves, 
as  will  be  seen  from  the  order  : 

'  To  the  Magistrates  of  Burghs. 
*  Our  traist  freindis,  after  maist  hearty  commendacion,  we  pray 
ye  fail  not  to  pass  incontinent  to  the  Kirlv  [of  Glasgow  or  other 
such  edifice  as  might  require  attention]  and  tak  down  the  haill 
imag-es  thereof,  and  bring  furth  to  the  Icirl^zyai'd,  and  bum  them 
openly.  And  siclyke  cast  down  the  alteris,  and  purge  the  kirk  of 
all  kynd  of  monuments  of  idolatrj-e.  Ana  this  ye  fail  not  to  do 
as  ye  will  do  us  singular  eniplesur ;  and  so  committis  you  to  the 
protection  of  God. 

(Signed)        '  Ar.  Abgyle. 
'Jalies  Stuart. 

*  RUTH\'EN. 

'  From  Edinburgh  the  xli  of  August,  1560. 

'  Fail  not  hot  ye  tak  g;uidheyd  that  neither  the  dasks,  windocks, 
nor  durris  be  ony  wayd  hurt  or  broken,  either  glassiu  work  or 
iron  work.' 

Though  the  occurrence  of  such  an  important  part  of 
the  mandate  in  a  postscript  might  perhaps  be  con- 
sidered as  a  little  significant,  yet  it  was  probably  the 
desire  of  the  Lords  of  the  Congregation  at  this  time  that 
the  work  of  demolition  should  go  a  certain  length,  and 
no  farther ;  but  they  had  raised  a  spirit  which  they 
could  not  lay  again,  and  the  harangues  of  any  furious 
preacher  were  received  with  much  greater  acceptance 
than  the  comparatively  moderate  injunctions  of  the 
civil  rulers.  The  more  ardent  among  the  Reformers 
were  not  content  with  a  partial  demolition,  and  they 
resolved  that  every  trace  of  the  Romish  superstition 
should  be  swept  away  at  the  expense  of  those  magnifi- 
cent structures  which  had  been  long  the  pride  and  glory 
of  the  land.  An  act  was  accordingly  passed  in  1574 
by  the  Estates,  at  the  instigation  of  the  Assembly, 
authorising  a  still  further  purification  or  dismantling  of 
those  churches  which  had  hitherto  escaped,  and  '  there- 
upon,' says  Spottiswoode,  'ensued  a  pitiful  devastation 
of  churches  and  church  buildings  throughout  all  parts 
of  the  realm,  for  every  one  made  bold  to  put  to  their 
hands — the  meaner  sort  imitating  the  ensample  of  the 
greater,  and  those  who  were  in  authority.  No  differ- 
ence was  made,  but  all  the  churches  either  defaced  or 
pulled  to  the  ground.  The  holy  vessels,  and  whatso- 
ever else  men  could  make  gain  of,  as  timber,  lead,  and 
bells,  were  put  up  to  sale.  The  very  sepulclires  of  the 
dead  were  not  spared.  The  registers  of  the  church  and 
bibliotheques  cast  into  the  fire.  In  a  word,  all  was 
ruined  ;  and  what  had  escaped  in  the  time  of  the  first 
tumult  did  now  undergo  the  common  calamity,  which 
was  so  much  the  worse,  that  the  violences  committed  at 
this  time  were  coloured  with  the  warrant  of  publick 
authority.  Some  ill-advised  preachers  did  likewise 
animate  people  in  these  their  barbarous  proceedings 
crying  out— "That  the  places  where  idols  had  been 
worshipped,  ought,  by  the  law  of  God,  to  be  destroyed, 
158 


GLASGOW 

and  that  the  sparing  of  them  was  the  reserving  of  things 
execrable.  " '  The  execution  of  the  above-mentioned 
act  for  the  West  was  committed  to  the  Earls  of  Arran, 
Argyll,  and  Glencairn,  and  they,  at  the  intercession  of 
the  inhabitants  of  Glasgow,  had  spared  the  cathedral, 
but  Andrew  Melvil,  acting  with  more  zeal  than  discre- 
tion, kept  urging  the  magistrates  to  pull  the  building 
down  and  build  three  churches  with  the  materials. 
They  at  length  acceded  to  his  request,  and  the  narrow 
escape  of  the  cathedral  in  1579  is  thus  told  by  Spottis- 
woode :  '  In  Glasgow  the  next  spring  there  happened  a 
little  disturbance  by  this  occasion.  The  magistrates  of 
the  city,  by  the  earnest  dealing  of  Mr  Andrew  Melvil 
and  other  ministers,  had  condescended  to  demolish  the 
cathedral,  and  build  mth  the  materials  thereof  some 
little  churches  in  other  parts  for  the  ease  of  the  citizens. 
Divers  reasons  were  given  for  it ;  such  as  the  resort  of 
superstitious  people  to  do  their  devotion  in  that  place  ; 
the  huge  vastness  of  the  church,  and  that  the  voice  of 
a  preacher  could  not  be  heard  by  the  multitudes  that 
convened  to  sermon ;  the  more  commodious  seiTice  of 
the  people  ;  and  the  removing  of  that  idolatrous  monu- 
ment (so  they  called  it),  which  was,  of  all  the  cathedrals 
of  the  country,  only  left  unruined  and  in  a  possibility 
to  be  repaired.  To  do  this  work  a  number  of  quarriers, 
masons,  and  other  workmen  was  conduced,  and  the 
day  assigned  when  it  should  take  beginning.  Intima- 
tion being  given  thereof,  and  the  workmen  by  sound  of 
drum  warned  to  go  unto  their  work,  the  crafts  of  the 
city  in  a  tumult  took  armes,  swearing  with  many  oathes. 
that  he  who  did  cast  down  the  first  stone,  should  be 
buried  under  it.  Neither  could  they  be  pacified  till  the 
workmen  were  discharged  by  the  magistrates.  A  com- 
plaint was  hereupon  made,  and  the  principals  cited 
before  the  council  for  insurrection,  when  the  king,  not 
as  then  thirteen  years  of  age,  taking  the  protection  of 
the  crafts,  did  allow  the  opposition  they  had  made,  and 
inhibited  the  ministers  (for  they  were  the  complainers) 
to  meddle  anymore  in  that  businesse,  saying,  "That 
too  many  churches  had  been  already  destroyed,  and 
that  he  would  not  tolerate  more  abuses  of  that  kind. " ' 
The  truth  of  this  statement  has  been  questioned,  as  no 
entry  regarding  the  intended  destruction  of  the  cathedral 
stands  in  the  council  minutes  of  the  day,  and  because  no 
other  historian  mentions  the  affair.  It  may  be  presumed, 
however,  that  there  were  good  reasons  why  no  notice  ef 
the  destructive  resolution  of  the  magistrates,  and  of  the 
events  which  followed,  should  be  placed  on  the  records ; 
and  further  Spottiswoode  is  a  trustworthy  chronicler, 
and  the  tradition  has  been  one  of  almost  universal 
acceptance  in  Glasgow  for  nearly  three  centuries.  The 
details  may  be  slightly  inaccurate,  but  the  main  fact  of 
the  great  peril  to  the  cathedral  and  of  its  rescue  by  the 
crafts,  seem  to  be  worthy  of  all  credit.  There  is  indeed 
reason  to  believe  that  the  silence  may  arise  from  the 
consent  of  the  council  having  been  passive  rather  than 
active,  and  that  Captain  Crawford  of  Jordanhill,  then 
Provost  of  Glasgow,  and  the  other  magistrates  yielded 
even  thus  far  with  considerable  reluctance,  and  only  that 
they  might  clear  themselves  from  any  imputation  of 
having  an  undue  tenderness  for  the  memorials  of  Popery. 
Newte,  in  his  Tour  in  England  and  Scotland  (1791), 
goes  farther,  and  says  that  the  chief  magistrate  remon- 
strated and  said,  '  I  am  for  pulling  down  the  High 
Church,  but  not  till  we  have  first  built  a  new  one.' 
The  respect  that  the  greater  part  of  the  citizens  bore  tO' 
it,  is  evidenced  by  the  provost  and  council  having  in 
1574  met  with  the  deacons  of  the  crafts  and  others  to- 
consider  the  ruinous  condition  of  the  cathedral,  'throuch 
taking  awaye  of  the  leid  solait  and  wther  gi'ayth  thairof 
in  thir  trublus  tyme  bj'gane,  sua  that  sick  ane  greit 
monument  will  all  uterlie  fall  doun  and  dekey  without 
it  be  remedit,  and  becaus  the  helping  thairof  is  so  greit 
.  .  .  all  in  ane  voce  has  consentit  to  ane  taxt  and 
impositioun  of  twa  hundredtht  pundis  money  to  be  taxt 
and  payit  be  the  tounschip  and  fremen  thairof  for  help- 
ing to  repair  the  said  kirk  and  haldyng  it  wattirfast."" 
In  Bob  Hoy  Sir  Walter  Scott  gives  a  slightly  different 
but    decidedly  picturesque   account   of  the  incident : 


GLASGOW 

'Ay  ! '  says  Andrew  Fairservice,  '  it's  a  braw  kirk — nane 
o'  your  whigmalieries,  and  curliwurlies,  and  open  steek 
hems  about  it — a'  solid,  weel-jointed  mason-wark,  that 
■will  stand  as  lang  as  the  world,  keep  hands  and  gun- 
powther  all'  it.  It  had  amaist  a  douncome  langsyne  at 
the  Reformation,  when  they  pu'd  doun  the  kirks  of  St 
Andrews  and  Perth  and  thereawa',  to  cleanse  them  o' 
papery,  and  idolatry,  and  image  worship  and  surplices, 
and  siclike  rags  o'  the  muckle  hure  that  sitteth  on  seven 
hills,  as  if  ane  wasna  braid  eneuch  for  her  auld  hinder 
end.  Sae  the  commons  o'  Renfrew,  and  of  the  Barony 
and  the  Gorbals,  and  a'  about,  they  behoved  to  come  in- 
to Glasgow,  ae  fair  morning,  to  try  their  hands  in  purg- 
ing the  High  Kirk  of  Papish  nick-nackets.  But  the 
tounsmen  of  Glasgow,  they  were  feared  their  auld  edifice 
might  slip  the  girths  in  gaun  through  siccan  rough 
playsic,  sae  they  rang  the  common  bell,  and  assembled 
the  train-bands  wi'  tuck  o'  drum.  By  good  luck,  the 
worthy  James  Rabat  was  Dean  o'  Guild*  that  year  (and 
a  guid  mason  he  was  himsell,  made  him  the  keener  to 
keep  up  the  auld  biggin')  ;  and  the  trades  assembled 
and  offered  dounright  battle  to  the  commons,  rather  than 
their  kirk  should  coup  the  crans,  as  others  had  done 
elsewhere.  It  wasna  for  love  o'  Papery — na  na — nane 
could  ever  say  that  o'  the  trades  o'  Glasgow.  Sae  they 
sune  cam  to  an  agreement  to  tak  a'  the  idolatrous 
statues  o'  saints  (sorrow  be  on  them)  out  o'  their  neuks. 
And  sae  the  bits  o'  stane  idols  were  broken  in  pieces  by 
Scripture  warrant  and  flung  into  the  Molendinar  Burn, 
and  the  auld  kirk  stood  as  crouse  as  a  cat  when  the  flaes 
are  kaimed  aff  her,  and  a'  body  was  alike  pleased. ' 

The  repairs  continued  to  occupy  the  attention  of  the 
council  from  time  to  time  during  the  rest  of  the  16th 
and  the  early  part  of  the  17th  centuries,  and  the 
minutes  on  the  subject  are  numerous,  and,  before  the 
meeting  of  the  General  Assembly  in  1638,  considerable 
repairs  and  improvements  were  actually  made  by  them, 
while  some  of  the  Protestant  archbishops  seem  to  have 
also,  out  of  their  scanty  revenues,  done  what  they  could ; 
but  the  building  remained  in  a  very  dilapidated  condition 
till  1829,  when  Dr  Clelland  called  attention  to  its  state, 
and  a  subscription  was  started  for  the  repair  of  the  nave. 
It  was  in  some  way  interrupted,  and  nothing  more  was 
done  till  1854,  when  the  Commissioners  of  Woods  and 
Forests  took  up  the  matter,  and  under  their  care  the 
restoration  was,  by  1856,  completely  effected,  in  a  man- 
ner which — excepting  for  the  removal  of  the  W  tower 
and  the  consistory  house — is  worthy  of  the  highest  praise. 
The  building  is  the  property  of  the  Crown,  but  the  cor- 
poration draw  the  seat-rents  of  the  High  Chraxh — it 
being  one  of  the  ten  city  churches, — and  they  have  also 
the  care  of  the  churchyard.  There  are  several  bells  in 
the  tower,  and  the  largest  one  has  an  inscription  some- 
what worthy  of  notice  :  '  In  the  year  of  grace  1594, 
Marcus  Knox,  a  merchant  in  Glasgow,  zealous  for  the 
interest  of  the  reformed  religion,  caused  me  to  be  fab- 
ricated in  Holland  for  the  use  of  his  fellow- citizens  of 
Glasgow,  and  placed  me  with  solemnity  in  the  tower  of 
their  cathedral.  My  function  was  announced  by  the 
impress  on  my  bosom  {Me  audita  venias  dodrinam 
sandam  ut  discas),  and  I  was  taught  to  proclaim  the 
hours  of  unheeded  time.  One  hundred  and  ninety -five 
years  had  I  sounded  these  awful  warnings,  when  I  was 
broken  by  the  hands  of  inconsiderate  and  unskilful 
men.  In  the  year  1790  I  was  cast  into  the  furnace, 
refounded  at  London,  and  returned  to  my  sacred 
vocation.  Reader,  thou  also  shaft  know  a  resurrection : 
may  it  be  unto  eternal  life  ! ' 

In  the  interior,  on  the  lower  part  of  the  walls,  there 
are  monuments  principally  to  military  men  connected 
■with  the  neighbourhood.  One  is  a  memorial  to  the 
officers  and  men  of  the  93rd  Sutherland  Highlanders 
■who  fell  during  the  Crimean  campaign.  Over  it  are 
placed  the  old  colours  of  the  regiment,  presented  to  it 
by  the  first  Duke  of  Wellington.  Another  marble  is 
inscribed  to  the  officers  and  men  of  the  71st  Highlanders 
who  fell  on  theNW  frontier  of  India  in  1863.  A  bronze 
tablet  with  surmounting  ornament  is  in  memory  of 
*  An  anachronism.    There  was  no  Dean  of  Guild  till  1605. 


GLASGOW 

Lieutenant  R.  Anderson,  who  was  treacherously  cap- 
tured while  in  command  of  a  party  escorting  a  flag  of 
truce,  and  cruelly  put  to  death  by  the  Chinese  in  1860. 
In  the  NE  corner  of  the  nave  is  a  marble  bust  of  Dr 
Chrystal,  rector  of  Glasgow  Grammar  School,  who  died 
in  1830.  On  the  S  side  of  the  nave  is  the  memorial 
brass  of  the  Stirwarts  of  Minto — one  of  the  oldest  brasses 
in  Scotland.  In  the  churchyard  outside  are  a  number 
of  curious  stones.  The  oldest  is  said  to  date  from  1223 
and  the  next  from  1383.  On  the  E  side  of  the  SE 
entrance  is  the  tomb  of  Thomas  Hutcheson,  one  of  the 
founders  of  Hutcheson's  Hospital.  The  monument 
dates  from  1670,  but  was  restored  in  1857.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  doorway  is  a  recessed  tomb  dedi- 
cated to  the  founder  of  the  Baillie  Trust,  who  died  in 
1873.  Rudely  scratched  on  the  wall  near  the  ISf  tran- 
sept is  a  representation  of  a  gallows,  with  a  ladder 
leading  up  to  it,  and  a  figure  dangling  from  it,  and  the 
date  1769.  It  marks  the  '  malefactors  burying-ground,' 
which  was  directly  opposite.  The  monument  of  Dr 
Peter  Low,  the  founder  of  the  Faculty  of  Physicians 
and  Surgeons,  is  near  the  SW  corner  of  the  ground. 
It  bears  date  1612,  and  has  the  following  curious  in- 
scription : — 

*  Stay,  passen^jer,  and  view  this  stone, 
For  under  it  lyes  such  a  one 
■\Vho  cured  many  whill  he  lieved. 
So  gracious  he  no  man  g:rieved. 
Zea  when  his  phisics  force  oft  fayled, 
His  pleasant  i)urpose  then  prevailed  ; 
For  of  his  God  he  g'ott  the  grace 
To  live  in  mirth  and  dye  in  peace. 
Heaven  has  his  soul,  his  corps  this  stone. 
S3'gh,  passinger,  and  so  be  gone.' 

And  beneath  :^ 

*  Ah  me,  I  graven  am  and  dust, 
And  to  the  grave  deshend  I  most ; 
O  painted  peice  of  liveing  clay, 
Man,  be  not  proud  of  thy  short  day.' 

On  another  belonging  to  the  Hamiltons  of  Holmhead 
with  the  date  1616,  the  following  tribute  is  paid  to  a 
wife  : — 

'  Yee  gazers  on  this  trophie  of  a  tomb. 
Send  out  ane  grone  for  want  of  her  whose  life 
Once  born  of  earth,  and  now  lies  in  earth's  womb, 
Liv'd  long  a  virgin,  then  a  spotless  wyfe. 
Here  lyes  enclosed  man's  gTiefe,  earth's  loss,  friends'  paine, 
Religion's  lampe,  virtue's  light,  heaven's  gaine. 
Dumb  senseless  statue  of  some  lyfeless  stones, 
Rear'd  up  for  memorie  of  a  blessed  soule. 
Thou  holds  but  Adam,  Adam's  blood  bemones 
Her  loss,  she's  fled,  none  can  her  joys  controule. 
O  happy  thou,  for  zeale  and  christian  love, 
On  earth  beloved,  and  now  iu  heaven  above.' 

Other  Estahlislied  Clmrches. — St  Paul's  Church,  built 
in  1835-36  for  the  congregation  of  St  Paul's  or  the  Outer 
High  parish,  which  formerly  worshipped  in  the  nave  of 
the  cathedral,  is  in  High  John  Street.  It  is  a  plain 
building  ■with  a  belfry.  Blackfriars  or  College  Church 
stood  on  the  E  side  of  High  Street,  close  to  the  S  side 
of  the  old  University  buildings.  It  was  a  quaint  edifice, 
built  in  1699,  on  the  site  of  the  previous  Gothic  build- 
ing (already  described),  which  was  destroyed  by  lightning 
in  1688.  "When  this  site  had  to  be  abandoned  to  the 
Union  railwaj',  the  new  church  was  erected  in  "Wester 
Craigs  Street  in  1876-77.  The  steeple  of  the  old  church 
was  at  one  time  used  as  a  prison.  St  Mary's  or  the 
Tron  Church  stands  on  the  S  side  of  the  Trongate  be- 
hind the  Tron  steeple,  and  is  on  the  site  of  the  old 
church  of  St  Mary's  already  described.  After  the  Re- 
formation the  latter  building  fell  into  disrepair,  but  was 
in  1592  ordered  to  be  set  to  rights,  and  from  that  date 
till  1793,  when  it  was  destroyed  by  fire,  it  was  in  use 
as  a  place  of  worship.  The  present  plain  structure  was 
erected  in  1794,  and  the  pulpit  was  from  1815  till  1819 
occupied  by  Dr  Chalmers.  St  David's  or  the  Ramshom 
Church  is  on  the  N  side  of  Ingram  Street.  It  is  cruci- 
form in  shape,  has  a  massive  square  pinnacled  tower, 
120  feet  high,  and  is  a  good  example  of  florid  Perpendi- 
cular Gothic.      The  name  Ramshorn  is  taken  from  the 

1S9 


GLASGOW 

old  name  of  the  lands,  and  is  traditionally  derived  from 
a  miraculous  incident  connected  with  St  Mungo.  A 
sheep  belonging  to  the  Saint's  flock  having  been  carried 
off  and  killed  by  some  robbers,  one  of  them  found  his 
hand  permanently  encumbered  with  the  head  of  the 
animal,  and  he  had  to  go  to  St  Mungo  and  confess  his 
crime  before  he  could  get  rid  of  his  uncomfortable  bur- 
den, and  the  lands  where  the  incident  took  place  re- 
ceived the  name  of  '  Ramys  Home. '  The  first  St  David's 
Church — which  was  then  the  fifth  in  Glasgow — was 
built  in  1724  on  the  same  site  as  the  present  edifice, 
which  was  erected  in  1824.  St  Andrew's  Church  stands 
in  the  centre  of  St  Andrews  Square,  and  was  built  in 
1756.  With  the  exception  of  the  tower,  it  presents  a 
general  resemblance  to  the  church  of  St  Martin's-in-the- 
rields  in  London,  and  has  a  hesastyle  composite  portico, 
with  the  city  arms  sculptured  on  the  tjTnpanum  of  the 
pediment.  The  tower  has  three  stages,  and  is  cro\vned 
with  a  cupolar  spire.  St  Enoch's  Church  stands  at  the 
S  end  of  St  Enoch's  Square.  The  chapel  in  this  quar- 
ter, dedicated  to  St  Thenew,  has  been  already  noticed. 
The  first  Presbyterian  church,  of  which  the  small  but 
elegant  steeple  still  remains,  was  erected  here  in  1780- 
1782,  and  was  in  1827  replaced  by  the  present  building. 
St  George's  Church  is  in  St  George's  Place,  on  the  W 
side  of  Buchanan  Street,  in  a  line  with  George  Street 
and  West  George  Street,  and  was  erected  in  1807.  It 
is  an  oblong  classic  building,  and  has  a  steeple  162  feet 
high,  of  a  rather  peculiar  design,  there  being  four 
ebelisk  finials  on  the  angles,  while  another  surmounts 
the  open  cupolar  centre.  The  bell  is  about  3  feet  in 
diameter,  and  is  inscribed  '  I  to  the  church  the  people 
call,  and  to  the  grave  I  summon  all,  1808.'  It  re- 
placed a  church  erected  in  1687,  and  called  the  Wynd 
Church,  from  the  locality  in  which  it  was.  This  was 
pulled  down  as  soon  as  St  George's  Church  was 
finished.  St  John's  Church  is  in  Grteme  Street,  oppo- 
site Macfarlane  Street.  It  was  erected  in  1817-19 
at  a  cost  of  about  £9000,  and  the  parish  had  for  its 
first  minister  from  1819  to  1824  Dr  Chalmers,  who 
here  inaugurated  his  celebrated  movement  in  support 
of  the  opinion  that  it  was  the  duty  of  each  parish 
voluntarily  to  maintain  its  own  poor.  The  building 
is  Decorated  Gothic,  and  it  has  a  massive  square  tower 
with  pinnacles.  St  James'  Church  is  on  the  S  side 
of  Great  Hamilton  Street.  It  was  built  in  1816  as 
a  Methodist  Chapel,  but  when  St  James'  parish  was 
constituted  in  1820  it  became  the  parish  church.  It 
is  a  very  plain  building.  The  above-mentioned  nine 
parish  churches,  along  with  the  cathedral — which  is  the 
parish  church  of  the  Inner  High  parish — constitute  the 
churches  of  the  original  divisions  of  the  old  City  parish, 
and  the  whole  are  known  as  the  ten  city  churches,  and 
are  under  the  charge  of  the  town  council.  The  total 
number  of  sittings  in  the  whole  of  them  is  11,617,  and 
the  income  from  the  letting  of  these  was,  in  1881-82, 
£1654,  10s.,  while  the  payments  for  ministers'  stipends 
amounted  to  £3800,  the  payment  being  £425  to  each 
except  Blackfriars,  which  received  £400,  and  the 
cathedral,  which  receives  the  original  teinds.  Al- 
though the  Barony  was  erected  into  a  parish  in  1599, 
and  a  minister  had  been  appointed  in  1595,  the  erection 
was  made  on  the  condition  that  the  town  was  not  to  be 
'  burdenit  ivith  seaten  or  biggin  of  kirks,  nor  furnishing 
nae  mae  ministers,  nor  they  hae  already,'  and  so  the 
congregation  worshipped  in  the  crypt  of  the  cathedral, 
and  had  no  separate  church  till  1798,  when  the  present 
building  was  erected  in  Infirmary  Square.  While  the 
parish  is  ecclesiastioally  second  in  importance  only  to 
the  cathedra],  the  aspect  of  the  church  is  ridiculous  and 
ungainly  in  the  highest  degree.  The  Barony  parish  has 
had  connected  with  it  a  number  of  eminent  ministers, 
one  of  the  earliest  being  the  celebrated  Zachary  Boyd, 
and  one  of  the  later,  the  eloquent,  genial,  and  warm- 
hearted Dr  Norman  Macleod,  who  died  in  1872.  Be- 
sides these  there  are  the  churches  of  Abbotsford,  Ander- 
ston,  Barrowfield,  Bellahouston,  Blackfriars,  Blue  Vale, 
Blythswood,  Bridgegate,  Bridgeton,  Calton,  St  Thomas', 
Chalmers,  Dean  Park,  Gorbals,  Greenhead,  Hutcheson- 
160 


GLASGOW 

town,  Hillhead,  Kelvinhaugh,  Kingston,  Kinning  Park, 
Laurieston,  Macleod,  Martyrs',  Maryhill,  Maxwell, 
Milton,  Newlands,  Newhall,  Park,  Parkhead,  Partick, 
and  Partick  St  Mary's,  Plantation,  PoUokshields,  Port 
Dundas,  Queen's  Park,  Robertson  Memorial,  St  Ber- 
nard's, St  Columba's,  St  George's-in-the-Fields,  St 
Luke's,  St  Mark's,  St  Matthew's,  St  Peter's,  St  Stephen's, 
St  Vmcent's,  Sandyford,  Shettleston,  Springbum,  Town- 
head,  Well  Park,  and  Whiteinch  parishes.  There  are 
also  the  chapels  of  ease  (gradually  being  converted  into 
quoad  sacra  parishes)  of  Barony  Mission  ;  Woodside, 
in  Park  ;  of  Dalmarnock  and  St  Clement's,  in  Calton  ; 
of  Crown  Street,  in  Gorbals  ;  of  the  Gaelic,  Govan- 
hill,  Hyndland,  Oatlands,  and  West  Church,  in  Govan ; 
East  Park  and  Possil  Park,  in  Maryhill ;  Gaelic  or 
Garscube  Mission,  in  St  Columba's ;  Brownfield,  in  St 
George's  ;  HopehUl  Mission  ;  St  Luke's  Mission  Church, 
in  St  Luke's  ;  Millerston,  in  Shettleston  ;  Hogganfield, 
in  Springburn  ;  Townhead  Mission  and  Cobden  Street 
Church,  in  Townhead.  Few  of  these  call  for  particular 
comment,  though  many  of  them  are  very  beautiful 
examples  of  different  styles  of  Gothic  architecture.  The 
number  of  communicants  in  the  whole  of  the  Established 
churches  in  Glasgow,  exclusive  of  Barony  Mission,  Hynd- 
land, Govan  West,  Possil  Park,  Gaelic  Mission,  St  Luke's 
Mission,  Townhead  Mission,  and  Townhead  Cobden 
Street  churches,  for  which  there  were  then  no  returns, 
was,  in  1881,  51,396,  and  the  number  of  sittings  about 
150,000. 

'The  Established  Church  Presbytery  of  Glasgow  com- 
prises all  the  above-mentioned  parishes,  and  also  the 
adjoining  parishes  of  Bauton,  Cadder,  Campsie,  Car- 
munnock,  Cathcart,  Chryston,  Cumbernauld,  Eagles- 
ham,  Kilsyth,  Kirkintilloch,  and  Kirkintilloch  St 
Davids,  Lenzie,  Rutherglen,  and  West  Rutherglen, 
and  the  mission  stations  of  Bishopbriggs,  Langside, 
Condorrat,  and  Eastfield  (Rutherglen).  The  presbytery 
meets  on  the  last  Wednesday  of  March  and  the  first 
AVednesday  of  January,  February,  May,  June,  August, 
September,  October,  November,  and  December,  in  the 
Tron  Church. 

The  Synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  which  meets  at 
Glasgow  in  April  and  at  Irvine  in  October,  comprises 
the  Presbyteries  of  Ayr,  Irvine,  Paisley,  Greenock, 
Hamilton,  Lanark,  Dumbarton,  and  Glasgow,  which  in 
1881  included  328  charges  and  mission  stations. 

Free  Churches. — The  Free  College  church  has  been 
already  noticed  in  connection  with  the  Free  Church 
divinity  hall,  beside  which  it  stands.  The  most  pro- 
minent of  the  others  are  St  Andi-ew's,  which  is  in  North 
Hanover  Street ;  St  George's,  in  Elderslie  Street,  a 
quasi -cruciform  structure ;  St  John's,  in  George  Street, 
opposite  Anderson's  College,  which  has  a  lofty  and  well- 
proportioned  steeple,  and  is  a  good  specimen  of  modern 
Gothic  ;  St  Matthew's,  at  the  W  end  of  Bath  Street,  a 
handsome  church  with  a  very  good  steeple  ;  St  Peter's, 
in  Main  Street,  in  the  Blythswood  district ;  Renfield, 
in  Bath  Street,  E  of  St  Matthew's,  a  decorated  Gothic 
building  with  pierced  octagonal  spire  ;  Tron,  in  Dundas 
Street ;  Kelvinside,  in  Hillhead,  near  the  Botanic 
Gardens,  which  has  a  very  fine  steeple  ;  Well  Park,  in 
Duke  Street ;  Barony,  an  ambitious  Norman  edifice 
with  a  square  tower;  Anderston,  in  University  Avenue, 
a  fine  Early  English  huDding,  with  a  beautiful  interior ; 
Cowcaddens,  in  the  Italian  style  ;  and  Blochairn,  at  the 
junction  of  Garngad  and  Blochairn  Roads ;  and  con- 
nected with  this  denomination,  there  are  also  the 
Argyle  (Gaelic),  Augustine,  Barrowfield,  Bridgegate, 
Bridgeton,  Broomielaw,  Buchanan  Memorial,  Camp- 
bell Street,  Candlish  Memorial,  Chalmers',  Cran- 
ston Hill,  Cunningham,  Dennistoun,  Duke  Street, 
East  Park,  Fairbairn,  Finnieston,  Gorbals  (formerly 
the  parish  church).  Great  Hamilton  Street,  Hope 
Street,  Hutchesonto-ivn,  John  Knox's,  Kingston,  Kin- 
ning Park,  London  Eoad,  Lyon  Street,  JIacdonald, 
Martyrs',  Maryhill,  Milton,  North  Woodside,  Paisley 
Road,  PoUokshields,  Queen's  Park,  Renwick,  Rose 
Street,  St  David's,  St  Enoch's,  St  George's  Road,  St 
James's,  St  Mark's,  St  Paul's,  St  Peter's,  St  Stephen's, 


GLASGOW 

Sightljill,  Stockwell,  Tollcross,  Trinity,  Union,  Victoria, 
"West,  AVestbourne,  Whitevale,  Wynd,  Young  Street, 
Hillhead,  Millcrston,  Partick,  Partick  Dowanvale,  and 
Partick  Higli,  Shettleston,  and  Whiteinch  churches. 
There  are  also  mission  churches  at  Eaglesham,  Partick 
(Gaelic),  and  Possil  Park.  The  number  of  members  in 
all  these  churches,  exclusive  of  Eaglesham  and  Possil 
Park  missions,  was,  in  1881,  31,819,  and  the  number 
of  sittings  about  90,000. 

The  Free  Clmrch  Presbytery  of  Glasgow  comprises  all 
the  above  churches,  and  also  those  at  Bishopbriggs, 
Busby,  Campsie,  Cathcart,  Chryston,  Cumbernauld, 
Govan,  Govan  St  Columba's,  and  Govan  St  Mary's, 
Kilsyth,  Kirkintilloch  St  Andrew's,  and  Kirkintilloch 
St  David's,  Eutherglen,  and  Rutherglen  East.  The 
presbytery  meets  on  the  first  Wednesday  of  the  month 
at  Holmhead  Street,  in  the  presbytery  house  attached 
to  St  Mary's  (Free  Tron)  Church. 

The  Free  Church  Synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  which 
meets  at  Glasgow  on  the  second  'Tuesday  of  April  and 
October,  comprises  the  presbyteries  of  Ayr,  Irvine, 
Paisley,  Hamilton,  Lanark,  Dumbarton,  and  Glasgow, 
and  in  1881  included  247  charges  and  mission  stations. 

United  Fresbyterian  Churches. — Albert  Street  church 
is  a  French  Gotliic  building,  with  medallions  of  Knox, 
Ebenezer  Erskine,  and  Dr  Chalmers  on  the  front  gable. 
Anderston  church,  built  in  1839,  is  in  the  E  end  of 
Anderston.  It  is  a  plain  Italian  building,  and  super- 
seded a  previous  building  erected  in  1769  by  the  first 
Belief  congregation  in  Glasgow.  Greyfriars'  Church  is 
on  the  E  side  of  North  Albion  Street,  and  is  a  hand- 
some edifice  with  a  Grecian  portico.  It  superseded  a 
previous  church  in  Shuttle  Street,  built  in  1740  bj'  the 
first  Secession  congregation  in  Glasgow.  John  Street 
church  stands  at  the  corner  of  John  Street  and  Coch- 
rane Street.  It  has  a  handsome  Ionic  colonnade,  and 
superseded  a  Relief  church  built  on  the  same  site  in 
1798.  Lansdowne  Church,  on  the  N  side  of  the 
Great  "Western  Koad,  is  a  cruciform  Gothic  building, 
with  a  spire  rising  to  a  height  of  220  feet,  of  good  design 
except  for  its  excessive  slenderness.  It  has  a  beautiful 
interior,  and  a  number  of  stained  glass  memorial  win- 
doAVS.  Kelvingrove  Church  is  at  the  S  side  of  the  Kel- 
vingrove  Park  at  the  corner  of  Derby  Street  and  Kel- 
vingrove Street,  and  is  a  very  handsome  Gothic 
building.  St  "Vincent  Street  church  is  on  the  S  side  of 
St  Vincent  Street  at  nearly  the  highest  point,  and  cost 
about  £15,000.  It  forms  an  imposing  feature  in  the 
western  views  of  the  city,  and  has  a  lofty  Egyptian 
cupola-capped  tower.  The  style  is  partly  Egyptian  and 
partly  Ionic.  "Woodlands  Church  is  at  the  corner  of 
"Woodlands  Road  and  "Woodlands  Street,  and  is  one  of 
the  most  handsome  and  tasteful  Gothic  churches  in  the 
city.  It  cost  about  £14,000,  exclusive  of  the  site. 
There  is  a  well-proportioned  and  tasteful  spire.  Cale- 
donia Road  church  is  a  Grajco-Egyptian  building,  with 
a  lofty  campanile  surmounted  by  a  Latin  Cross. 
Besides  these  there  are  also  the  Bath  Street,  Belhaven, 
Bellgrove,  Berkeley  Street,  Burnbank,  Calton,  Cam- 
bridge Street,  Campbell  Street,  Claremont,  Oranstonhill, 
Cathedral  Square,  Dennistoun,  Frederick  Street,  Gil- 
lespie, Greenhead,  Henderson  Memorial,  Kent  Road, 
London  Road,  Maryhill,  Mordaunt  Street,  Parkhead, 
Regent  Place,  Renfield  Street,  Rockvilla,  St  George's 
Eoad,  St  RoUox,  Sandyford,  Shamrock  Street,  Spring- 
burn,  Sydney  Place,  Tollcross,  "Wellington  Street, 
"Whitevale,  Partick  Dowauhill,  Partick  East,  and  Par- 
tick  Newton  Place,  and  "Whiteinch  churches,  as  well  as 
those  at  CamphUl,  Cumberland  Street,  Eglinton  Street, 
Elgin  Street,  Erskine,  Govanhill,  Govan  and  Govan 
Greenfield,  HutchesontoA\Ti,  Ibrox,  Langside  Road, 
Mount  Florida,  Oatlands,  Plantation,  PoUokshaws, 
Pollokshields,  Pollok  Street,  and  Queen's  Park.  Tlie 
total  number  of  members  of  all  these  was,  in  1881, 
37,954,  and  there  are  about  100,000  sittings. 

The  V.  P.  Presbytery  of  Glasgow  (North)  meets  at  Grey- 
friars' Hall,  Albion  Street,  on  the  second  Tuesday  of 
every  month,  and  comprises  all  the  churches  mentioned 
above  from  Albert  Street  to  "Whiteinch  church,  with  the 


GLASGO-W 

exception  of  Caledonia  Road  church.  Besides  these  it 
also  contains  Airdrie  AVell  Wynd,  and  Airdrie  South 
Bridge  Street,  BaiUieston,  Bishopbriggs,  Bothwell, 
Campsie,  Coatbridge,  Kirkintilloch,  Lenzie,  Lismore, 
Milngavie,  New  Kilpatrick,  Oban,  Portree,  Springbank, 
Stornoway,  Uddingston,  and  Better  Hope  (Demerara) 
churches,  in  all  63  cougi'egations,  of  which  45  are  con- 
nected with  Glasgow.  The  U.P.  Presbytery  of  Glasgow 
{South)  meets  on  the  first  Tuesday  of  each  month  in  the 
hall  of  the  Elgin  Street  church.  It  includes  all  the 
churches  mentioned  above  from  Camphill  to  Queen's 
Park  and  also  Caledonia  Road  church.  It  contains  also 
Barrhead,  Busby,  Eaglesham,  Rutherglen,  Mearns,  and 
Thornliebank  churches,  in  all  25  congregations,  of 
which  19  are  connected  with  Glasgow. 

Tlie  United  Original  Secession  Church  have  three 
churches  in  Glasgow  at  Bedford  Street,  Laurieston ; 
Main  Street,  ofl'  Argyle  Street ;  and  "William  Street,  in 
Bridgeton.  The  presbytery  of  Glasgow  includes  these 
churches  and  also  others  at  Kirkintilloch,  PoUokshaws, 
and  Shottsburn.  The  divinity  hall  is  in  Glasgow,  and 
the  session  opens  in  the  beginning  of  June.  The 
synod  meets  at  Glasgow  in  May.  The  Reformed  Pres- 
byterian Church  of  Scotland  has  one  congregation  ia 
Nicholson  Street,  and  this  charge,  along  with  those  of 
Paisley,  Penpont,  and  "R^hithorn,  forms  the  presbytery 
of  Glasgow.  The  synod  meets  in  Glasgow  early  in  May. 
There  are  also  congregations  of  the  Free  Presbyterian 
Clmrch  (London  Street),  of  the  Church  of  Christ  (Brown 
Street),  of  the  Old  Scotch  piidependents  ( Oswald  Street), 
of  the  Society  of  Friends  (North  Portland  Street),  of 
the  John  Knox  Kirk  of  Scotland  (Margaret  Street), 
of  the  Free  Gospel  Church  (Charlotte  Street),  of  the 
Catholic  Apostolic  Church  (Catherine  Street),  and 
of  the  Sweclenborgians  or  New  Jerusalem  Church 
(Cathedral  Street),  as  well  as  two  congregations  of 
Unitarians  (St  Vincent  Street  and  South  St  Mungo 
Street),  a  Christadelphian  Syiuigogue  (SauchiehaU 
Street),  a  deaf  and  dumb  congregation,  a  Jewish  syna- 
gogue (George  Street),  a  seamen's  chapel  (Brown  Street), 
and  barracks  in  various  parts  of  the  town  for  the  Salva- 
tion Army,  which  musters  strongly  in  all  the  poorer 
parts  of  the  city,  and  has  its  headquarters  in  St  Vin- 
cent's Place. 

T!w  United  Evangelistic  Hall  is  at  the  corner  of  Steel 
Street  and  James  Jlorrison  Street,  the  main  front  being 
to  the  former.  It  was  erected  in  1876-77  at  a  cost 
of  about  £13,000,  provides  accommodation  in  the 
area  and  galleries  for  over  2000  persons,  and  contains, 
besides,  3  large  committee  rooms,  2  rooms  for  workers, 
and  other  apartments. 

Indep)endcnt  Churches. — There  are  in  Glasgow  twelve 
places  of  worship  in  connection  with  the  Congregational 
Union.  These  are  at  Elgin  Place,  Ewing  Place,  Great 
Hamilton  Street,  Eglinton  Street,  City  Road,  Clare- 
mont Street  (Trinity),  Belgrove  Street  ("\Vardlaw),  Park 
Grove,  Bernard  Street  (Bridgeton),  Overnewtou  (Im- 
manuel),  Commercial  Road,  and  Parkhead.  Elgin  Place 
chui'ch,  at  the  corner  of  Elgin  Place  and  Bath  Street, 
is  a  large  and  massive,  but  dignified  and  handsome, 
Ionic  building,  with  a  fine  hexastyle  portico.  Clare- 
mont Street  church  is  Decorated  Gothic,  with  a  square 
tower  and  a  lofty  octagonal  spire.  Most  of  the  other 
churches  are  also  good  buildings. 

Evangelical  Union  Churches. — There  are  in  Glasgow 
in  connection  \\ith  this  denomination  congregations  at 
Muslin  Street,  Bridgeton ;  Jlonti'ose  Street ;  East 
Miller  Street,  Dennistoun ;  North  Dundas  Street ; 
Moncur  Street  (Guthrie  Memorial)  ;  "West  Street,  Cal- 
ton ;  Nelson  Street,  Tradeston  ;  Cathcart  Road,  Govan- 
hill ;  and  Pitt  Street  (Ebenezer) — 9  in  all.  The  pulpit 
of  the  Dundas  Street  church  is  still  occupied  by  the 
Rev.  Dr  Morison  who  originated  the  Union  in  1843, 
when  he  quitted  the  Secession  Church,  in  which  he  had 
formerly  been  a  minister,  his  charge  being  at  Kilmarnock. 
The  Theological  Hall  of  the  body  is  also  at  Glasgow, 
and  has  a  principal  and  professors  of  New  Testament 
Exegesis,  Systematic  Theology,  and  Hebrew.  The 
session  begins  in  August. 

161 


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GLASGOW 


Baptist  Uliurches. — There  are  in  Glasgow,  in  connec- 
tion with  the  Baptist  Union  of  Scotland,  congregations 
at  Adelaide  Place,  Bath  Street ;  Cambridge  Street ; 
Canning  Street ;  North  Frederick  Street ;  John  Street ; 
John  Knox  Street  ;  Queen's  Park ;  and  the  corner  of 
Kirk  Street  and  Buchan  Street — 8  in  all. 

The  Wesleyan  Methodists  have  places  of  worship  at 
the  comer  of  John  Street  and  Cochrane  Street  (St 
John's) ;  Claremont  Street ;  Gallowgate  (St  Thomas')  ; 
Cathcart  Road ;  Paisley  Road  ;  Raglan  Street,  North 
Woodside  Road  ;  and  Partick — 7  in  all.  The  Methodists 
rented  a  hall  in  Stockwell  Street  in  1779,  and  there 
John  Wesley  himself  preached  from  time  to  time.  The 
John  Street  church  was  built  in  1854,  the  others  since  ; 
and  for  the  John  Street  congregation  a  new  church  was 
buOt  in  1880  in  Sauchiehall  Street  at  a  cost  of  £8200. 
There  are  also  in  the  city  two  churches  and  a  mission 
chapel  connected  with  the  Church  of  England,  viz. ,  St 
Jude's,  Blythswood  Square  (a  Gra3co-Egyptian  building, 
the  first  minister  of  which  was  Robert  Montgomery)  ; 
St  Silas,  near  the  West  End  Park,  and  St  Silas  Mission 
Chapel  in  Hayburn  Street,  Partick. 

The  Episeo2>al  Church  in  Scotland. — There  are  in 
Glasgow  9  Episcopal'congregations,  viz. , — St  Andrew's  at 
Willowacre,  near  the  Green ;  Christ  Church,  at  Mile- 
End  ;  St  John's  in  Anderston,  in  Dumbarton  Road  ;  St 
Luke's  ;  St  Mary's,  Holyrood  Crescent  ;  St  NLnian's,  on 
the  W  side  of  Pollokshaws  Road ;  St  Paul's,  in  Buc- 
cleuch  Street ;  All  Saints,  at  JordanhiU  ;  St  James',  at 
Springburn  ;  and  a  mission  chapel  at  Cowcaddens.  St 
Andrew's,  dating  from  1750,  is  the  oldest  church  of  the 
Scottish  Episcopal  communion.  Its  altar,  crucifix,  and 
candlesticks  are  made  of  oak  from  Bishop  Rae's  14th 
century  bridge ;  and  in  the  centre  of  the  altar  is  the 
last  piece  of  the  high  altar  of  lona.  St  Mary's, 
on  the  N  side  of  the  Great  Western  Road,  a  little  E  of 
the  bridge  across  the  Kelvin,  belongs  to  the  Second 
Pointed  style,  and  was  built  in  1870-71  after  designs  by 
Sir  George  Gilbert  Scott.  The  estimated  cost  was 
£35,000,  but  the  steeple,  which  is  to  be  a  massive  square 
tower,  with  pinnacles  and  octagonal  spire,  is  not  yet 
built.  The  church  consists  of  a  nave  (100  feet  long),  with 
aisles,  transepts,  and  chancel,  and  has  a  fine  interior, 
with  some  handsome  memorial  windows.  None  of  tlie 
others  call  for  particular  notice.  These  churches  are  in 
the  United  Dioeese  of  Glasgow  and  Galloway,  which  also 
contains  the  Episcopal  churches  at  Ayr,  Annan,  Ardros- 
san,  Baillieston,  Castle-Douglas,  Coatbridge,  Dalbeattie, 
Dumbarton,  Dumfries,  Galashiels,  Girvan,  Gourock, 
Greenock,  Hamilton,  Hawick,  Helensburgh,  Jedburgh, 
Johnstone,  Kelso,  Kilmarnock,  Kirkcudbright,  Lanark, 
Largs,  Lenzie,  Melrose,  Moffat,  Newton,  Paisley, 
Peebles,  Port  Glasgow,  Selkirk,  and  West  Linton,  a 
mission  station  at  Cartsdyke,  private  chapels  at  Colzivim 
and  Dolphinton,  and  domestic  chaplains  at  Drumlanrig 
Castle  ;  Ardgowan  ;  Lamington  Castle,  Biggar ;  Pen- 
ninghame,  Coodham,  and  Ravenstone  Castle. 

Roman  Catholic  Churches. — The  Roman  Catholic 
Church  has  a  strong  following  in  Glasgow,  in  the  poorer 
and  particularly  in  the  Irish  quarters  of  the  town.  There 
are  altogether  the  following  19  churches  in  Glasgow  and 
the  suburbs,  with  date  of  erection  and  number  of  sit- 
tings :— St  Andrew's  Pro-Cathedral  (1816  ;  2500),  in 
Great  Clyde  Street ;  St  Alphonsus'  (1846  ;  1000),  in 
Great  Hamilton  Street ;  St  John's  (1846  ;  1700),  in 
Portugal  Street;  St  Joseph's  (1850;  1200),  in  North 
Woodside  Road;  St  Aloysius'  (1866;  1000),  at  Gar- 
nethill ;  St  Mary's  (1842  ;  1700),  in  Aberoromby 
Street ;  St  Mungo's  (1869  ;  1500),  in  Parson  Street ; 
St  Patrick's  (1850  ;  800),  in  Hill  Street,  Anderston  ;  St 
Vincent's  (1859;  1000),  in  Duke  Street;  St  Francis' 
(1881;  1800),  in  Cumberland  Street;  Sacred  Heart 
(1873),  in  Old  Dalmarnock  Road  ;  Our  Lady  and  St 
Margaret's  (1874  ;  800),  in  Kinning  Park  ;  St  Michael's 
(1876  ;  600),  at  Parkhead  ;  St  Peter's  (1858  ;  650),  at 
Partick ;  St  Aloysius'  (1856 ;  350),  at  Springburn ; 
Immaculate  Conception  (1851  ;  900),  at  Maryhill ;  St 
Agnes,  at  Possil;  St  Paul's  (1857;  450),  at  Shettleston; 
and  St  Mary  Immaculate  (1865 ;  800),  at  Pollokshaws.  St 
162 


Andrew's  Church  is  in  Great  Clyde  Street,  midway  be- 
tween Victoria  Bridge  and  Glasgow  Bridge.  It  super- 
seded an  old  church  built  in  the  Gallowgate  in  1797,  and 
the  first  open  place  of  Roman  Catholic  worship  in  the 
city  subsequent  to  the  Reformation.  At  the  time  of  its 
erection  it  cost  £13,000,  but  since  1871  a  lai-ge  sum  of 
money  has  been  spent  in  altering  and  improving  it.  The 
style  is  Decorated  Gothic,  and  the  building  has  a 
fine  S  front  with  a  richly  carved  doorway  and  window, 
crocketed  pinnacles,  two  gi-aceful  octagonal  turrets,  and, 
in  a  niche,  a  figure  of  St  Andrew.  St  Mungo's  was  erected 
in  1869  to  the  NW  of  the  cathedral,  and  has,  adjoining 
it,  residences  for  six  priests,  and  large  buildings  for 
schools,  and  forms,  together  with  these,  a  large  heavy 
mass  of  buildings.  The  Franciscan  church  of  St  Francis, 
designed  hy  Messrs  Pugin  &  Pugin,  at  present  con- 
sists of  only  an  aisled  six-bayed  nave.  Early  Decorated 
in  style,  and  150  feet  long,  72  -nide,  and  94  high  ;  but 
it  will,  when  completed,  form  one  of  the  finest  ecclesi- 
astical structures  in  the  city.  Cardinal  Manning  as- 
sisted at  its  opening  on  1  June  1881.  There  are 
also  a  Convent  of  Mercy,  at  GarnethiU ;  a  Francis- 
can convent,  in  Charlotte  Street ;  the  Convent  of  the 
Good  Shepherd,  at  Dalbeth  ;  St  Peter's  Seminary,  at 
Partick  Hill  ;  and  West  Thorn  Reformatory.  The 
churches  in  Glasgow,  with  others  at  Airdrie,  Cambuslang, 
Clelland,  Cardowan,  Baillieston,  BlantjTC,  Carluke, 
Longriggend,  Shotts,  Mossend,  Chapelhall,  Coatbridge, 
WhifBet,  Govan,  Hamilton,  Lanark,  Larkhall,  Miln- 
gavie,  Motherwell,  Rutherglen,  Springburn,  Wishaw, 
Dairy,  Kilbirnie,  Saltcoats,  Alexandria,  Dumbarton,  Dun- 
tocher,  Helensburgh,  Kirkintilloch,  Barrhead,  Busby, 
Greenock  (2),  Houston,  Johnstone,  Largs,  Neilston, 
Paisley  (2),  Pollokshaws,  Port  Glasgow,  and  Renfrew, 
form  the  Diocese  of  Glasgoio  presided  over  by  an  arch- 
bishop. 

Municipal  Affairs. — Tlie  Corporation. — We  have  al- 
ready seen  that  Glasgow  was,  by  William  the  Lyon,  raised 
to  the  dignity  of  a  burgh  of  barony  holding  of  the  bis- 
hop, and  doubtless  it  was,  from  that  time,  governed  by  a 
provost  and  magistrates,  but  the  fii'st  mention  of  these, 
still  remaining,  is  in  1268,  when  a  conveyance  of  land  is 
stated  to  'have  been  made  in  presence  of  the  provost, 
bailies,  etc.  In  1454  the  city  was  constituted  a  burgh  of 
regality,  and  the  provost  and  magistrates  would  then 
preside  either  personally  or  by  deputy  in  the  court  of 
regality.  In  the  early  times  they  were  not  selected  from 
among  the  citizens,  but  were  noblemen  or  gentlemen 
whose  power  might,  at  any  moment,  have  proved  useful 
to  the  bishop,  and  so  tlie  list  of  early  provosts  includes 
the  names  of  the  Earl  of  Lennox  (1578-80),  the  Earl  of 
Montrose  (1583-84),  Lord  Boyd  (1574-77),  Lord  Belhaven 
(1541-43),  Sir  George  Elphinstone  (1600-1607)  Crawford 
of  Jordanhill  (1577-78),  and,  above  all,  difl'erent  members 
of  the  family  of  Stewart  of  Minto.  At  a  late  period  it 
even  became  customary  for  the  provost  to  be  appointed 
during  the  life  of  the  archbishop,  as  in  the  case  of 
Lord  Boyd,  who  so  held  office.  The  provosts  did  not 
reside  in  the  city,  but  came  there  only  when  special 
occurrences  required  their  presence.  The  bailies  seem, 
however,  at  an  earlj'  period  to  have  become  jealous  of 
church  jurisdiction,  for  in  1510  we  find  three  of  them  ex- 
communicated for  having  recorded  in  their  books  that 
'  none  of  the  citizens  of  Glasgow  ought  to  summon 
another  citizen  before  a  spiritual  judge,  respecting  a 
matter  which  could  be  competently  decided  before  the 
bailies  in  the  court-house  of  Glasgow, '  and  this  statute 
had  been  considered  by  the  chapter  to  be  an  infringe 
ment  of  the  rights  of  the  Church.  The  Earl  of  Lennox, 
who  was  provost  at  the  time,  and  the  bailies  themselveS; 
at  first  boldly  stood  up  for  their  rights  and  liberties 
but  finally  gave  way,  and  were  absolved  in  the  begin^ 
ning  of  1511.  In  1560  the  right  of  nomination  by  th 
archbishop  disappeared  with  himself;  the  council  meet 
ing  after  the  flight  of  Beaton  declared  that  the  arch 
bishop  had  been  searched  for,  and  that,  as  there  seemeu 
to  be  no  chance  of  finding  him,  they  were  compelled  to 
elect  the  magistrates  themselves  ;  but  in  1574  mention 
is  again  made  of  leets  of  names  being  submitted  to  the 


GLASGOW 


GLASGOW 


'  Tulchan '  Archbishop  Boyd  for  his  selection,  and  the 
same  is  the  case  in  1575.  In  1578  and  1579  the  Earl  of 
Lennox  was  made  provost  by  the  same  selection,  but  in 
1580  the  bailies  had  hardly  been  appointed  when  an 
act  of  the  Privy  Council  was  issued,  intimating  that,  as 
these  officials  had  resigned  at  the  king's  request,  three 
others  had  been  appoiuted.  By  act  of  parliament  in 
1587  the  lands  of  the  barony  were  annexed  to  the  Crown, 
and  in  the  same  year  they  were  granted  to  the  commen- 
dator  of  Blantyre,  to  whom  also  the  right  of  selection 
passed,  for  we  find  him  nominating  the  provost  and 
bailies  in  1589.  In  1600,  however,  by  royal  charter 
the  right  of  selection  was  given  to  the  Duke  of  Lennox, 
and  between  1601  and  1605  the  council  had  the  right 
granted  it  of  electing  its  own  magistrates,  but  this  only 
brought  dissension,  and  in  1606  the  king  had  to  name 
the  bailies  himself,  while  in  the  followiug  year  the  right 
of  nomination  was  handed  by  the  council  back  to  the 
archbishop.  In  1611  a  new  charter  of  confirmation  was 
granted  by  the  king,  disponing  the  burgh  of  Glasgow 
to  the  magistrates,  councO,  and  community,  but  re- 
serving to  the  archbishop  his  right  to  elect  magistrates 
and  exercise  jurisdiction  within  the  regality,  and  in 
1633  and  again  in  1636  other  acts  were  obtained  rati- 
fying all  privileges,  but  still  reserving  to  the  archbishop 
the  rights  before  mentioned.  In  1639  the  archbishop 
had  to  flee,  and  in  1639  and  1640  the  council  elected 
their  ovnx  magistrates,  but  in  1641  the  king  interfered 
and  made  the  selection  himself,  and  though  the  council 
protested  and  sent  commissioners  to  Edinburgh  on  the 
subject,  no  redress  was  obtained,  and  so  matters  re- 
mained till  1690  when  a  royal  charter  of  AVilliam  and 
Mary  confirmed  all  former  charters,  and  granted  to  the 
cit}'  tlie  '  full  power,  right,  and  libertie  to  choise  and 
elect  their  Proveist,  Balllies,  and  haill  other  Magistrats 
in  the  ordinar  manner  and  at  the  ordinar  tyme,  as 
freelie  as  any  other  royall  burgh  in  the  said  kingdome. ' 
The  provost  has  borne  the  courtesy  title  of  'my  lord,' 
and  '  the  honourable,'  since  1688,  and  the  first  recorded 
allowance  made  to  him  '  to  keep  up  a  post  suitable  to 
his  station,'  was  in  1720  when  the  sum  of  £40  was 
allowed  yearly,  and  this  payment  lasted  till  1833. 
In  1627  the  provost,  as  is  duly  recorded,  had  a 
'  hatt  and  string '  purchased  for  him,  so  he  probablj' 
wore  a  hat  of  office,  and  in  1720  an  act  of  council  was 
passed  providing  that  his  official  dress  was  to  be  a  court 
suit  of  velvet,  After  1767  the  provost  and  bailies  w'ore 
cocked  hats  and  gold  chains  of  office,  the  latter  being 
still  in  use,  but  the  former  disappeared  in  1833.  In 
1875  official  robes  were  adopted  for  the  provost,  bailies, 
and  town-clerk.  In  early  times  the  number  of  the 
council  seems  to  have  varied,  and,  in  place  of  the  oppo- 
site method  now  in  use,  the  council  was  elected  by  the 
magistrates.  In  1586  we  find  there  was  a  provost, 
3  bailies,  and  21  councillors,  but  additions  and  re- 
movals were  made  at  any  time  in  the  most  hap- 
hazard manner.  Prior  to  1801,  the  executive  of  the 
council  consisted  of  the  lord  provost,  3  bailies,  the 
dean  of  guild,  the  deacon-convener,  and  the  treasurer. 
In  that  year  two  other  bailies  were  added — one  from 
the  merchants'  rank  and  the  other  from  the  trades' 
rank.  Until  the  passing  of  the  Municipal  Reform  Bill, 
the  council  was  composed  exclusively  of  members  from 
the  Merchants'  and  Trades'  Houses,  self  elected  here  as 
elsewhere ;  but  when  that  measure  became  law,  the 
roj-alty  was  divided  into  five  wards,  which  returned 
thirty  members  by  election,  and  to  these  two  ex  officio 
members  were  added,  viz.,  the  dean  of  guUd,  elected 
by  the  Merchants'  House,  and  the  deacon-convener, 
elected  by  the  Trades'  House. 

Prior  to  1846  the  three  districts  of  Gorhals,  Calton, 
and  Anderston,*  had  burgh  jurisdictions  of  their  o^vn, 
but  an  Act  of  Parliament,  passed  in  that  year,  provided 

♦  Gorbals  was  originally  subject  to  the  archbishop,  but  became 
in  1647  subject  to  the  to\vii  council  of  Glasgow  ;  and  its  magistrates 
were,  down  till  1S32,  appointed  by  the  council,  but  from  1S32  to 
1846  were  elected  by  the  inhabitants  subject  to  the  subsequent 
approval  of  the  Council.  The  original  burgh  comprised  only  13 
acres.  Calton  was  constituted  a  burgh  of  barony  by  Crmvu 
Charter  in  1S17,  and  had  a  town  council,  consisting  of  a  provost. 


that  these  should  be  abolished,  and  that  these  places 
should  in  future  return  their  proportion  of  members  to 
the  city  council.  Since  that  time  the  council  has  con- 
sisted of  50  members,  of  wdiom  48  are  elected  in  the 
proportion  of  3  by  each  of  16  wards  into  which  the 
municipal  burgh  is  now  divided,  and  the  remaining  2 
are  the  dean  of  guild  and  the  deacon-convener  elected 
as  before.  The  ward  councillors  retain  office  for  3  years, 
one-third  of  them  retiring  annually  by  rotation,  and  the 
dean  of  guild  and  deacon-convener  are  elected  annually, 
but  are  generally  elected  for  a  second  year.  The  coun- 
cil chooses  out  of  its  own  members  an  executive,  consist- 
ing of  a  lord  provost,  10  bailies,  a  treasurer,  a  master  of 
works,  a  river  bailie,  and  a  depute-river  bailie.  They 
also  appoint  the  city  clerk,  city  chamberlain,  burgh 
fiscal,  burgh  registrars,  and  other  officials,  with  salaries 
ranging  from  £200  to  £1200  a  year.  The  standing  com- 
mittees are  those  on  finance,  accounts,  etc.  ;  on  the 
bazaar  and  city  hall,  clocks,  bells,  etc.  ;  and  on  churches 
and  churchyards  ;  while  the  committees  for  special  pur- 
poses are  now  (1882)  on  parliamentary  bills,  on  tram- 
ways, on  libraries,  on  new  municipal  buildings,  on  addi- 
tional extramural  buryiug-ground,  and  on  gas  supply ; 
and  there  are  sub-committees  on  gas-works,  on  gas 
finance,  and  on  contracts  and  duties  of  officials.  The 
council  also  act  as  trustees  under  the  Parks  and  Galleries 
Trust  Act  of  1859,  the  business  being  managed  by  a 
committee,  with  sub-committees  on  the  Queen's  Park, 
Kelvingrove  Park,  Alexandra  Park,  Glasgow  Green, 
Corporation  Galleries  and  City  Industrial  Museum, 
Music  in  the  parks,  and  Finance  ;  as  Commissioners  for 
JIarkets  and  Slaughter-Houses,  the  affairs  being  managed 
by  a  committee,  with  a  sub-committee  on  Finance ;  as 
Ti'ustees  under  the  Glasgow  Improvement  Act  of  1866, 
the  business  being  managed  by  a  committee,  with  sub- 
committees on  Lodging-Houses  and  Finance.  They  are 
also  Commissioners  under  the  Glasgow  Corporation 
Waterworks  Act  of  1855,  the  business  being  managed 
by  a  committee,  with  sub-committees  on  Finance, 
Jleters  and  Water-fittings,  claims  of  compensation  for 
lands  and  damages,  and  appeals.  The  council  also  act 
as  Commissioners  of  Police  under  the  Glasgow  Police 
Act  and  Provisional  Order  obtained  in  1877,  the  busi- 
ness being  managed  by  a  magistrates'  committee  ;  a 
committee  on  Finance ;  a  committee  on  Statute  Labour ; 
a  committee  on  Watchmg  and  Lighting  ;  a  committee 
on  Health,  with  sub-committees  on  Cleansing,  Hospitals, 
and  Sewage  ;  a  committee  for  disposing  of  objections  to 
assessments ;  a  committee  on  Gunpowder  Magazine ;  a 
committee  on  Street  Improvements ;  and  a  committee 
on  Public  Baths  and  AVash-houses.  They  are  also 
Bridge  Trustees,  and  return  members  to  the  Clyde 
Navigation  Trust,  the  Court-House  Commissioners, 
and  managers  for  various  institutions  that  have  been 
already  noticed.  In  the  year  1700  the  corporation 
income  was  in  round  numbers  £1764,  while  the  ex- 
penditure was  £2024,  but  generally,  even  in  the  most 
corrupt  days  of  the  council,  the  affairs  were  well  managed 
and  cared  for.  The  income  is  derived  mainly  from  feu- 
duties  and  ground-annuals,  bazaar  dues  and  rents,  seat 
rents  of  the  parish  churches,  assessments,  and  miscel- 
laneous properties.  The  income  of  the  Common  Good 
alone,  in  1861,  was  £18,480,  7s.  8d. ,  the  ordinary  ex- 
penditure, £15,457,  17s.  OJd.,  the  extraordinary  ex- 
penditure, £3046,  7s.  2d.,"' and  the  debts,  £64,098, 
19s.  7d.  The  income  in  1871  was  £15,916,  Is.  6d.,  the 
ordinary  expenditure,  £14,808,  Is.  3d.,  the  extraordi- 
nary expenditure,  £2465,  Is.  9d.,  the  debts,  £183,921, 
9s.  9d.,  the  assets,  £426,116,  14s.  5d.  The  income  in 
1881  w^as  £25,562,  12s.  2d.,  and  the  expenditure 
£18,871,  7s.  ;  the  debts  were  £896,032,  19s.  Id.,  and 
the  assets  £1,298,249,  13s.  9d.,  showing  a  surplus 
of   free    assets   of   £402,216,    14s.    8d.,    exclusive    of 

3  bailies,  a  treasurer,  and  11  councillors  elected  by  burgesses, 
the  qualification  for  which  was  a  paj-ment  of  £2,  2s.  Ander- 
ston  was  constituted  a  burgh  of  barony  by  Crown  Charter  in 
1824,  and  had  a  town  council  of  the  same  constitution  as  that 
of  Calton,  elected,  however,  by  proprietors  or  life-renters  of 
heritable  subjects,  and  by  tenants  paying  £20  or  upwards  of 
annual  rent. 

163 


GLASGOW 

£58,115  in  tramways  sinking  fund.  The  assessment 
for  Municipal  Buildings  amounted  besides,  in  1881,  to 
£11,514,  lis.  7d.  ;  for  Registration  of  Births,  Deaths, 
and  Marriages,  to  £i318,  Os.  6d.  ;  for  Registration  of 
Voters,  £2159,  Os.  3d.  ;  for  Lands'  Valuation,  etc., 
£1439,  6s.  lOd. ;  and  for  Contagious  Diseases  (Animals'), 
£719,  13s.  5d.,  making  an  additional  total  of  £20,150, 
15s.  7d.  For  the  year  ending  in  May  1882  the  ordi- 
nary revenue  was  £22,736,  lis.  Id.,  the  ordinary  ex- 
penditure, £23,969,  14s.  8d.,  the  extraordinary  revenue, 
£4028,  16s.  8d.,  the  extraordinary  expenditure,  £8068, 
Is.  6d.,  the  debts,  £834,085,  10s.  lOd.,  and  the  assets, 
£1,233,248,  9s.  lOd.  Under  the  Municipal  Buildings 
Act  of  1878  the  income  was  £12,824,  10s.  9d.,  the  ex- 
penditure £12,541,  19s.  lid.,  the  debts  £193,468, 
Os.  lOd.,  and  the  assets  £179,176,  Os.  7d. 

Tramways. — The  corporation  are  the  titular  mana- 
gers of  the  Glasgow  Corporation  Tramways  authorised  by 
an  Act  of  Parliament  passed  in  1870,  and  extended  and 
coniirmed  by  acts  and  agreements  in  1871, 1873, 1875,  and 
1881.  By  these  acts  the  corporation  were  empowered 
to  construct  certain  specified  lines  of  tramway,  their 
borrowing  powers  for  the  purpose  being  fixed  first  at 
£200,000  and  then  at  £300,000.  These  lines  they  were 
empowered  to  lease  to  a  company  formed  at  the  same  time 
for  a  period  of  twenty-three  years  from  1  July  1871,  and 
under  a  lease  entered  into  on  21  Nov.,  the  corpora- 
tion agreed  to  raise  the  money  for  and  to  construct  the 
lines,  while  the  company  agreed  to  pay  all  expenses  of 
the  act ;  interest  on  the  cost  of  construction  at  3  per 
cent,  per  annum  ;  to  set  aside  the  same  percentage  as  a 
sinking  fund  for  the  extinction  of  the  original  cost ;  to 
pay  £150  per  annum  for  every  mile  of  street  over  which 
the  traffic  went ,  and  finally,  to  deliver  up  the  lines  and 
the  street  between  them  in  good  order  at  the  termina- 
tion of  the  lease,  and  then  also  to  hand  over  any 
balance  of  receipts  that  may  exist.  The  tramway  lines 
authorised  within  the  city,  to  the  total  length  of  13 
miles  1  furl.  131  yds. — exclusive  of  suburban  extensions 
outside  the  municipal  boundarj',  which  extend  to  10 
miles  6  furl.  37  yds. ,  or  a  total  length  of  23  miles  7  furl. 
168  yds. — have  been  in  course  of  construction  from  time 
to  time  ever  since,  and  were  finished  in  the  present 
year  1882.  Starting  from  the  junction  of  Jamaica  Street 
and  Argyle  Street  as  a  centre,  lines  extend  westward 
along  Argyle  Street,  Main  Street  (Anderston),  and  Dum- 
barton Road  to  "Whiteinch,  and  eastward  along  Argyle 
Street  and  Trongate  to  the  Cross.  Here  they  break  otf 
into  three  branches,  one  of  which  runs  southward  by  Salt- 
market,  Albert  Bridge,  Crown  Street,  and  Cathcart  Road 
to  Crossliill  ;  a  second  goes  SE  by  London  Street,  Great 
HamDton  Street,  and  Canning  Street,  and  there  breaks 
off  into  two  branches,  one  of  which  runs  along  the  Dal- 
marnock  Road  to  Dalmarnock  Toll,  the  other  runs 
along  London  Road  to  Fielden  Street,  up  which  it  turns 
to  the  N  and  along  Crownpoint  Street,  at  the  N  end  of 
which  it  joins  the  third  branch  from  the  Cross,  which 
rims  along  Gallowgate  and  Great  Eastern  Road  to  Park- 
head.  From  this  line  a  branch  turns  off  to  the  N  at 
East  John  Street  and  passes  along  Bluevale  Street,  at 
the  N  end  of  which  it  turns  to  the  W,  and  passes  along 
Duke  Street  and  George  Street,  through  George  Square 
and  along  St  Vincent  Place  to  Renfield  Street ;  this 
line  is  united  to  the  Trongate  line  by  a  branch  which 
passes  along  the  S  side  of  George  Square  and  on  by  South 
Frederick  Street,  Ingram  Street,  and  Glassford  Street. 

Returning  to  our  original  starting  point,  another  line 
passes  S  by  Jamaica  Street,  Glasgow  Bridge,  Bridge 
Street,  and  Eglinton  Street  to  the  W  end  of  Crossbill. 
At  the  S  end  of  Bridge  Street  it  is  intersected  by  a 
line  which,  starting  from  Crown  Street  on  the  E,  passes 
W  to  the  goods  and  mineral  terminus  of  the  Glasgow 
and  South-Western  and  Caledonian  railways,  where  it 
breaks  off  into  two  branches,  one  extending  along 
Paisley  Road,  and  the  other  by  the  Govan  Road  to 
Govan.  From  the  S  end  of  Jamaica  Street  another  line 
passes  northwards  by  Union  Street  and  Renfield  Street 
to  the  corner  of  Sauchiehall  Street,  where  one  branch 
turns  along  Sauchiehall  Street,  and  turning  down 
164 


GLASGOW 

Derby  Street  joins  the  Whiteinch  line  already  men- 
tioned ;  a  second  branch  passes  through  Cowcaddens 
and  along  New  City  Road  and  Great  Western  Road  to 
"Westbourne  Terrace.  It  gives  off  two  branches,  one  at 
the  NW  end  of  Cowcaddens,  which  proceeds  by  Gars- 
cube  and  Possil  Roads  to  the  canal  at  Rockvilla,  while 
the  second,  turning  off  at  St  George's  Cross,  passes  by 
New  City  Road  to  Maryliill.  The  Tramway  Company 
possess  over  200  cars,  and  of  course  a  correspondingly 
large  number  of  horses.  The  various  Acts  of  Parlia- 
ment and  other  expenses  have  been,  up  to  May  1882, 
£43,317,  6s.  2d.;  the  lines  under  the  original  agreement 
have  cost  £186,399,  3s.  4d. ;  the  lines  constructed  imder 
new  agreements  (the  terms  being  the  same  as  before, 
but  without  a  sinking  fund),  £60,352,  18s.  8d. ;  and 
the  Dalmarnock  and  Garscuhe  Road  extensions,  under 
an  agreement  made  in  1881  (no  interest  being  payable 
for  four  years),  £2758,  19s.  5d. 

An  act  to  authorise  tramways  in  the  Vale  of  Clyde 
was  passed  in  1871,  and  supplemented  in  1873,  the  pro- 
posal being  to  construct  lines  to  Bothwell  and  Hamil- 
ton, with  a  branch  to  Motherwell  and  Wishaw,  and 
another  set  of  lines  to  Govan,  Paisley,  and  Johnstone. 
The  line  to  Govan  has  been  constructed,  and  that  to 
Paisley  is  partly  made,  and  proposals  for  its  extension 
to  its  original  destination.  Paisley  and  Johnstone,  are  at 
present  being  again  brought  forward. 

Parks  and  Galleries  Trust. — The  results  of  the  opera- 
tions of  the  council  under  this  act  have  been  already 
given  in  the  notices  of  the  Public  Parks,  the  Corpora- 
tion Galleries,  and  the  Kelvingrove  Museum,  but,  not- 
withstanding the  already  heavy  strain  on  the  finances 
of  the  Trust,  a  proposal  is  now  being  made  which  will 
greatly  enlarge  its  operations.  The  insufficiency  of  the 
accommodation  in  the  Corporation  Galleries  in  Sauchie- 
hall Street  has  long  been  complained  of,  both  as  regards 
the  rooms  for  the  exhibition  of  the  pictures  and  those 
devoted  to  the  School  of  Art,  while  the  Museum  build- 
ing at  Kelvingrove  is,  notwithstanding  its  enlargement, 
still  only  sufficient  in  size  for  the  requirements  of  a  pro- 
vincial town.  To  remedy  this  state  of  matters,  it  is 
proposed  to  acquire  a  large  space  of  vacant  ground  im- 
mediately to  the  AV  of  the  present  Sauchiehall  Street 
buildings,  and  separated  from  them  by  Dalhousie  Street. 
On  this  site  art  galleries  would  be  erected  on  the  E,  S, 
and  "W  sides,  while  accommodation  for  the  School  of 
Art  would  be  furnished  on  the  N  side,  and  the  central 
square  space  would  be  filled  by  an  industrial  museum, 
with  a  glass  and  iron  roof.  The  present  galleries  would 
then  be  remodelled  to  form  a  home  for  the  Mitchell 
library.  The  whole  line  of  frontage  would  extend  along 
Sauchiehall  Street  for  a  distance  of  560  feet,  and  for 
this  distance  the  street  width  would  be  made  90  feet, 
the  site  of  Dalhousie  Street  being  utilised  as  the 
position  of  a  central  entrance  to  both  blocks  of  build- 
ing. Public  subscriptions  are  now  being  sought  in 
order  to  purchase  the  additional  ground,  and,  by  aid- 
ing the  finances  of  the  Park  Trust,  allow  the  operations 
to  be  begun  at  an  earlier  date  than  would  otherwise  be 
possible. 

Markets  and  Slaughter-Souses. — The  operations  of 
the  Council  under  this  trust  have  been  already  noticed. 

The  City  Improvement  Trust. — The  City  Improve- 
ment Act,  obtained  in  1866,  and  amended  in  1873, 
and  again  in  1880,  empowered  the  Town  Council  to 
alter,  widen,  divert,  or  altogether  efface  a  number 
of  old  streets,  and  to  construct  new  ones,  and  com- 
pulsory powers  were  given  for  the  purchase  of  pro- 
perty and  the  levying  of  assessments.  The  number 
of  streets  to  be  altered,  widened,  or  diverted,  was 
12,  while  39  new  streets  were  to  be  formed ;  the  act 
was  to  be  in  force  for  15  years  ;  and  the  assessment  for 
the  first  five  years  was  not  to  exceed  6d.  per  £1, 
while  for  the  remaining  ten  it  was  not  to  exceed  3d. 
per  £1.  The  borrowing  limit  was  fixed  at  £1,250,000. 
The  state  of  certain  parts  of  the  city  had  been  attracting 
notice  for  many  years  previous  to  1866  ;  but  from  the 
value  of  ground  in  the  densely  populated  part  of  the 
city,  nothing  had  been  done,  and  one  of  the  results  was 


GLASGOW 

an  abnormally  high  death-rate.  What  the  wynds  of 
Glasgow  were  may  be  gathered  from  the  following 
extract  from  the  report  of  the  '  Commissian  for  Inquir- 
ing into  the  Condition  of  the  Hand-loom  Weavers  in 
the  United  Kingdom,'  issued  in  1841  : — '  The  wynds  of 
Glasgow  comprise  a  fluctuating  population  of  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  thousand  persons.  This  quarter  con- 
sists of  a  labyrinth  of  lanes,  out  of  which  numberless 
entrances  lead  into  small  courts,  each  with  a  dunghill 
reeking  in  the  centre.  Revolting  as  was  the  outside  of 
these  places,  I  was  little  prepared  for  the  filth  and 
destitution  within.  In  some  of  these  lodging-rooms 
(visited  at  night)  we  found  a  whole  lair  of  human  beings 
littered  along  the  floor — sometimes  fifteen  and  twenty, 
some  clothed  and  some  naked — men,  women,  and 
children,  huddled  promiscuously  together.  Their  bed 
consisted  of  a  lair  of  musty  straw,  intermixed  with  rags. 
There  was  generally  no  furniture  in  these  places.  The 
sole  article  of  comfort  was  a  fire.  Thieving  and  prosti- 
tution constituted  the  main  source  of  the  revenue  of 
this  population.  No  pains  seem  to  be  taken  to  purge 
this  Augean  pandemonium,  this  nucleus  of  crime,  filth, 
and  pestilence,  existing  in  the  centre  of  the  second  city 
of  the  empire.  These  wynds  constitute  the  St  Giles  of 
Glasgow ;  but  I  owe  an  apology  to  the  metropolitan 
pandemonium  for  the  comparison.  A  very  extensive 
inspection  of  the  lowest  districts  of  other  places,  both 
here  and  on  the  Continent,  never  presented  anything 
half  so  bad,  either  in  intensity  of  pestilence,  physical 
and  moral,  or  in  extent  proportioned  to  the  population. ' 
Almost  twenty  years  later  there  was  but  little  improve- 
ment, for  in  1860  a  high  local  authority  said  to  the 
Social  Science  Congress  respecting  some  of  the  portions 
of  the  city  about  the  High  Street,  Saltmarket,  Gallow- 
gate,  and  Trongate  : — '  From  each  side  of  the  street  there 
are  narrow  lanes  or  closes  running  like  so  many  rents  or 
fissures  backwards  to  the  extent  of  sometimes  200,  some- 
times 300,  feet,  in  which  houses  of  three  or  four  stories 
stand  behind  each  other,  generally  built  so  close  on 
each  side,  that  the  women  can  shake  hands  with  one 
another  from  the  opposite  windows ;  and  in  each  of 
many  of  these  lanes  or  closes  there  are  residing  not 
fewer  than  500,  600,  and  even  700  souls.  In  one  case 
we  observed  38  families,  or  nearly  300  persons,  occupy- 
ing one  common  stair  ;  and  in  the  Tontine  Close,  on  the 
N  side  of  Trongate,  there  are  nearly  800  of  the  most 
vicious  of  our  population  crowded  together,  forming  one 
immense  hot-bed  of  debauchery  and  crime.'  The 
preamble  of  the  act  itself  states — '  Various  portions  of 
the  city  of  Glasgow  are  so  built,  and  the  buildings  so 
densely  inhabited,  as  to  be  highly  injurious  to  the  moral 
and  physical  welfare  of  the  inhabitants  ;  and  many  of 
the  thoroughfares  are  narrow  and  circuitous  and  incon- 
venient, and  it  would  be  a  public  and  local  advantage 
if  various  houses  and  buildings  were  taken  down,'  etc. 
Besides  the  references  already  made  to  the  operations  of 
the  Trust,  we  may  here  notice  the  feuing  of  lands  at 
Overnewton  and  Oaklands  in  1871  for  the  construction  of 
new  suburbs,  with  dwelling-houses  adapted  to  the  needs 
of  the  working-classes ;  the  prolongation  of  the  line  of 
William  Street  to  High  Street,  the  continuation  of 
Grffime  Street  to  High  Street,  the  alteration  of  the  Ton- 
tine and  the  widening  of  Trongate,  the  alterations  on 
the  Gallowgate,  the  opening  up  of  Watson  Street,  Sister 
Street,  and  Park  Lane,  the  formation  of  James  Morison 
Street,  John  Knox  Street,  the  improvement  of  Bell  o' 
the  Brae  from  a  gradient  of  1  in  14  to  1  in  29J,  the 
enlargement  of  the  open  space  in  front  of  the  Royal 
Infirmary,  and  the  formation  of  Bridgeton  Cross.  In 
no  town  in  the  kingdom  have  changes  of  the  same 
magnitude  and  importance  taken  place  in  the  same 
time.  The  improved  condition  of  things  is  shown  by 
the  fact,  that  while  the  city  death-rate  for  the  five  years 
before  the  operations  of  the  act  was  30  per  1000,  it  has 
for  the  last  five  years,  when  they  have  been  pretty  well 
carried  out,  fallen  to  under  25  per  1000,  which,  on  a 
population  of  500,000,  means  a  saving  of  2500  lives 
every  year.  In  1866-67  the  tax  was  at  the  rate  of  6d. 
per  £.,  from  1867  to  1873  it  was  4d.   per  £,  in  1874 


GLASGOW 

it  was  3d.,  and  since  that  time  it  has  been  2d.  per  £. 
The  borrowing  powers,  originally  fixed  at  £1,250,000, 
were  by  the  Act  of  1880  extended  to  £1,500,000,  and  of 
this  £1,150,965,  19s.  3d.  has  been  borrowed,  leaving 
powers  of  £349,034,  Os.  9d.  still  unexhausted.  For  the 
year  ending  31  May  1882  the  ordiuary  revenue  of  the 
Trust  was  £64,565,  Is.  Id.,  the  ordinary  expenditure 
£54,789,  12s.  lOd.,  the  extraordinary  revenue  £1235, 
13s.  5d.,  and  the  extraordinary  expenditure  £4123, 
17s.  Id. 

In  the  course  of  the  displacement  of  the  population 
in  the  old  haunts,  and  the  provision  of  accommodation 
for  it  elsewhere,  the  trustees  erected  model  lodging- 
houses  in  different  parts  of  the  city.  These,  with  the 
total  cost  up  to  31  May  1882,  the  number  of  lodgers  in 
the  year  preceding,  and  the  income  and  expenditure  for 
the  same  period  are  : — Drygate  lodging-house  for  males, 
£10,910,  18s.  3d.,  31,769  nightly  lodgers  at  4Jd.  per 
night,  70,185  at  3Jd.  per  night,  income  £1620, 19s.  lid., 
expenditure  £913,  4s.  9d.  ;  Greendyke  Street  lodging- 
house  for  males,  £11,019,  12s.  8d.,  28,671  nightly 
lodgers  at  4|d.,  74,423  at  3Jd.,  income  £1624, 17s.  5d., 
expenditure  £912,  14s.  ;  Gorbals  lodging-house  for 
males,  in  Portugal  Street,  £15,991,  lis.  6d.,  36,043 
nightly  lodgers  at  4id.,  74,815  at  3^d.,  income  £1768, 
17s.  7d.,  expenditure  £873,  3s.  5d.  ;  Calton  lodging- 
house  for  males,  in  Clyde  Street,  £14,641,  10s.  Id., 
12,056  nightly  lodgers  at  4Jd.,  82,549  at  3Jd.,  income 
£1432,  7s.  5d.,  expenditure  £829,  12s.  8d.  ;  North 
Woodside  Road  lodging-house  for  males,  £17,197, 
14s.  4d.,  18,078  nightly  lodgers  at  4Jd.,  86,224  at  SJd., 
income  £1599,  9s.  3d.,  expenditure  £890,  Is.  3d.  ; 
Anderston  lodging-house,  in  Hydepark  Street,  £15,030, 
6s.  8d.,  13,861  nightly  lodgers  at  4Jd.,  93,138  at  3id., 
income  £1620,  Is.  2d.,  expenditure  £973,  16s.  7d.  ; 
Russell  Street  lodging-house  for  unmarried  females, 
£3324,  Os.  Id.,  1823  weekly  lodgers  at  Is.  9d.  per  week, 
13,027  nightly  lodgers  at  3d.  per  night,  income  £322, 
7s.,  expenditure  £303,  5s.  7d. 

As  the  active  operations  of  the  Trust  have  now  ceased, 
we  may  glance  briefly  at  the  results  of  its  work.  The 
cost  of  the  property  acquired  by  the  Trust  has  been  (1.) 
within  compulsory  areas  £1,603,343,  17s.  5d.  ;  (2.)  at 
Oatlands  £42,173, 18s.  3d. ;  (3.)  at  Overnewton  £42,899, 
13s.  lid.  ;  (4.)  cost  of  erection  of  two  model  tenements 
in  Drygate,  including  site,  £3426,  Is.  4d.  ;  (5.)  expen- 
diture on  formation  of  streets,  squares,  sewers,  covering 
Molendinar  and  Camlachie  Burns,  etc.,  £99,443,  2s.  7d. ; 
(6.)  lands  of  Kennyhill,  and  cost  of  forming  Alexandra 
Park,  £40,000  ;  (7.)  cost  of  buildings  and  sites  of  seven 
lodging-houses  £87,170,  13s.  7d.,  or  a  total  outlay  for 
ground,  etc.,  of  £1,918,457,  7s.  Id.  Against  this  the 
Trust  lias  disposed  of  ground  and  feu-duties  in  the 
central  area  to  the  amount  of  £838,625,  4s.  2d.  ;  at 
Oatlands  to  the  amount  of  £48,513,  15s.  5d.  ;  and  at 
Overnewton  to  the  amount  of  £49,464,  Is.  9d.  ;  while 
the  value  of  the  property  and  feu-duties  still  held  is 
estimated  at  £783,395, 13s.  Id.  This  leaves  a  deficiency 
of  £198,458,  12s.  8d.,  and  if  the  deficiency  on  revenue 
and  expenditure  be  added,  £190,167,  12s.  lOd.,  the 
total  estimated  cost  of  the  scheme  to  the  ratepayers  is 
brought  up  to  £388,626,  5s.  6d.,  in  return  for  which 
they  have  obtained  (1.)  Alexandra  Park;  (2.)  92,722 
square  yards  of  ground  employed  in  the  formation  of  27 
new  streets,  and  the  improvement  of  24,  the  total  space 
being  28,052  square  yards  of  street  surface  beyond  what 
was  contemplated  in  the  original  scheme  ;  and  (3.)  the 
great  improvement  in  the  sanitary  and  social  condition 
arising  from  the  alterations  in  the  sewers,  streets,  and 
public  works.  Should  the  value  of  property  increase,  as 
it  is  likely  to  do  before  the  remaining  Trust  properties 
are  disposed  of,  this  estimated  cost  will  of  course  be 
diminished.  Since  operations  commenced  in  1876,  the 
sum  of  £570,581  has  been  paid  in  interest  alone. 

Water  Supply. — Originally  all  the  water  the  city 
required  was  procured  from  wells,  of  which  there 
was  a  considerable  number.  The  most  noted  seem  to 
have  been  St  Theuew's  Well  near  St  Enoch's  Square, 
.the  Deanside  or  Meadow  Well,  Bogle's  Well,  the  Barras- 

165 


GLASGOW 

yett  "Well  near  the  foot  of  Saltmarket,  one  in  Trongate, 
the  Priest's  or  Minister's  Well  on  the  banks  of  the 
Molendinar  near  the  Bridge  of  Sighs,  and  not  far  off,  on 
the  opposite  bank,  the  Lady  Well,  a  well  at  the  Cross, 
one  at  the  Vennel,  one  on  the  Green,  and  no  doubt 
many  of  less  note  elsewhere,  some  being  private. 
M'Ure  says  that  in  1736  there  were  'sweet  water  wells 
in  several  closses  of  the  toun,  besides  sixteen  public 
weUs  which  serves  the  city  night  and  day  as  need 
requires.'  There  were  seemingly  about  thirty  in  all. 
In  1776  the  magistrates  ordained  the  treasurer  'to  pay  to 
Dr  Irvine  £8,  Ss.  for  his  trouble  in  seai'ching  round  Glas- 
gow for  water  to  be  brought  into  the  city,'  but  nothing 
seems  to  have  come  of  the  search  ;  and  though  in  1785 
the  magistrates  employed  Mr  James  Gordon  to  examine 
the  water  at  Whitehill,  the  scheme  was  again  aban- 
doned.  By  1804  the  supply  had  become  still  scantier, 
and  in  that  year  one  of  the  citizens  named  William 
Harley  brought  water  from  his  lands  at  Willowbank  in- 
to his  yard  at  what  is  now  West  Nile  Street,  and  thence 
the  water  was  distributed  through  the  town  in  barrels 
mounted  on  wheels  and  was  sold  at  a  halfpenny  the 
'  stoup.'  In  1806  an  Act  of  Parliament  was  obtained  in- 
corporating the  Glasgow  Waterworks  Company  with  a 
capital  of  £100,000  (afterwards  increased)  in  £50  shares. 
The  engineer  of  the  company  was  Telford,  and  their  opera- 
tions were  earned  on  by  means  of  reservoirs  at  Dalmar- 
nock,  from  which  mains  passed  through  the  city.  In 
1808  the  Cranstouhill  Waterworks  Company  was  formed 
with  a  capital  of  £30,000  in  £50  shares,  and  borrowing 
powers  to  the  extent  of  £10,000.  The  reservoirs  were 
at  CranstonhUl,  and  the  supplies  in  both  cases  were 
drawn  from  the,  as  yet  unpolluted,  Clyde.  In  1806  the 
former  company  had  over  17  miles,  and  the  latter  com- 
pany about  9J  miles,  of  mains  in  the  city,  and  in  the 
following  year  there  was  a  sufficient  supply  to  permit  of 
watering  the  streets  with  water  carts,  all  former  efforts 
in  the  direction  of  keeping  down  the  dust  having  been 
limited  to  men  with  watering  cans.  These  companies, 
after  competing  with  one  another  for  a  time,  at  length 
amalgamated,  and  by  extending  their  works  to  meet  the 
increasing  demand,  continued  to  supply  the  whole  of  the 
water  used  till  1846,  when  the  Gorbals  Waterworks  Com- 
pany, formed  under  an  Act  passed  in  1845,  brought  in 
an  additional  gravitation  supply  from  the  hills,  7  mUes 
to  the  S,  where  there  is  a  contributing  area  of  about 
2800  acres,  and  a  storage  capacity  of  150,000,000  cubic 
feet,  the  water  is  filtered  and  delivered  at  Gorbals  with 
a  pressure  of  about  200  feet,  and  the  average  daily 
supply  for  1881-82  was  3,797,347  gallons.  The  cpiality 
of  the  water  supplied  by  the  old  companies  was  rapidly 
becoming  bad  from  the  increasing  impurity  of  the  Clyde, 
and  as  the  works  were  also  inadequate  to  supply  the 
higher  parts  of  the  city,  it  again  became  necessary  in 
1853  to  introduce  a  further  supply,  and  in  that  j'ear  the 
Glasgow  Waterworks  Company  applied  to  parliament  for 
a  bill  for  the  introduction  of  water  by  gravitation  irom 
Loch  Lubnaig.  This  was  successfully  opposed  by  the 
town  council,  who,  in  1854,  introduced  a  bill  asking  for 
power  to  acquire  the  works  of  the  Glasgow  and  Gorbals 
companies,  and  to  bring  in  a  fresh  supply  from  Loch 
Katrine.  It  was  defeated,  but  having  been  re-introduced 
the  following  year  was  then  successful,  and  though  the 
works  were  immediately  begun,  the  long  distance  from 
Loch  Katrine  to  Glasgow  (34  miles)  prevented  their 
completion  till  1859,  when,  on  14  Oct.,  the  new  water 
supply  was  inaugurated  by  the  Queen,  who  opened  the 
sluice  admitting  the  water  to  the  tunnel  at  the  loch. 
The  water  supply  is  drawn  from  a  water  surface  of  about 
4000  acres,  with  a  drainage  area  of  about  45,800  acres. 
The  commencing  tunnel  at  the  loch  is  8  feet  beneath 
the  surface,  at  a  point  2J  miles  E  of  Stronachlachar. 
It  has  a  diameter  of  8  feet,  and  has  to  Loch  Chon  a 
length  of  6975  feet.  From  this  the  water  is  carried  by 
a  series  of  works — comprising  numerous  aqueducts, 
some  of  them  from  60  to  80  feet  high ;  69  tunnels,  ag- 
gregately 13  miles  long  ;  and  lines  of  well  protected 
iron  pipes,  4  feet  in  diameter,  and  also  extending  over  a 
distance  of  13  miles — past  Loch  Ard,  and  across  the 
166 


GLASGOW 

valley  of  the  Endrick  to  a  collecting  reservoir  at  Mug- 
dock,  in  the  vicinity  of  Strathblane.  This  reservoir 
lies  311  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  originally 
occupied  70  acres,  with  storage  accommodation  for 
500,000,000  gallons  of  water,  but  has  since  been  gi-eatly 
enlarged  and  improved  so  as  to  be  capable  of  receiving 
and  emitting  50,000,000  gallons  a  day,  which  is  the 
maximum  amount  of  supply  from  Loch  Katrine,  Loch 
Venachar,  and  Loch  Drunkie.  From  Mugdock,  ori- 
ginally two  lines  of  pipe,  and  since  1872-73  four,  3  feet  in 
cliameter,  and  about  8  miles  long  in  each  case,  bring  the 
water  to  the  citj',  where  it  is  distributed  to  the  various 
districts,  to  the  suburbs,  and  to  other  places  in  the 
vicinity,  including  Rutherglen  and  Renfrew,  through  a 
length  of  mains,  which  in  the  city  alone  is  over  100 
miles.  New  aqueducts  have  also  been  constructed  be- 
tween Loch  Chon  and  Mugdock,  and  the  original  cost 
of  the  Loch  Katrine  operations  (about  £700,000)  has 
now  been  brought  up  to  over  £1,000,000,  while  the 
total  cost,  including  the  compensation  for  land,  the 
cost  of  the  old  works  (which  was  £462,133,  16s.  8d.), 
etc.,  has  amounted  to  about  £2,000,000.  The  average 
daily  supply  distributed  throughout  the  city  and  suburbs 
from  this  source  was,  in  1881-82,  34,589,930  gallons, 
and  the  water  is  the  purest  in  the  kingdom,  containing 
only  '25  gr.  of  impurities  per  gallon.  'The  total  amount 
of  water  distributed  in  1881-82  was  therefore  38,387,277 
gallons,  a  daily  allowance  of  about  45  gallons  a  head  for 
the  population  supplied.  The  revenue  for  1881-82  was 
£150,504,  Os.  7d.,  the  expenditure  £127,659,  18s. 
lOd.,  the  debts  £1,914,016,  Is.  7d.,  and  the  assets 
£2,171,711,  Os.  lid.  ;  while  the  sinking  fund  amounts 
to  £238,652.  The  rate  inside  the  compulsory  area  is 
8d.  per  £  for  domestic  purposes,  and  Id.  for  public  pur- 
poses ;  and  outside  the  compulsory  area,  lid.  per  £. 
The  offices  are  in  a  good  Italian  building  in  Miller 
Street. 

Police. — Till  the  commencement  of  the  present  century 
Glasgow  was  protected  by  the  '  watch  and  ward  sj'stem,' 
conducted  by  a  force  of  thirty  or  more  householders 
patrolling  the  streets.  In  1644  the  council  appointed 
'  ane  watohe  to  be  keepit  neightlie  heireftir '  from  six; 
o'clock  at  night  till  five  in  the  morning.  This  does  not 
seem  to  have  been  working  satisfactorily,  for  in  1659 
the  order  was  repeated,  and  proclaimed  by  tuck  of  drum, 
with  the  addition  that  the  watch  was  '  to  be  sett  ilk 
nicht,  be  the  baillies  in  dew  time,'  and  that  a  penalty 
was  to  be  exacted  from  those  who  neglected  to  take 
their  turn.  This  lasted  till  about  1778,  when  a  super- 
intendent, with  a  small  force  of  men,  was  appointed ; 
but  this  method  seems  to  have  again  failed,  as  there  was 
no  power  of  assessing  for  its  support,  and  a  return  was 
made  to  the  old  system.  In  17SS  there  was  also  a  small 
force  under  a  superintendent,  but  they  appear  to  have 
been  mereh'  to  assist  the  watch  kept  by  the  citizens. 
In  1789  a  bill  was  introduced  into  Parliament,  in  which 
it  was  proposed  to  extend  the  royalty,  and  to  impose  an 
assessment  for  police  purposes,  but  it  was  strongly 
opposed,  and  was  finally  thrown  out ;  and  in  1790  the 
city  was  divided  into  four  districts,  and  aU  male  citizens 
between  eighteen  and  sixty,  whose  rents  were  over  £3, 
took  turns  of  guard  duty,  36  being  on  patrol  every 
night.  By  1800,  however,  the  step  could  no  longer  be 
delayed,  and  in  that  year  an  act  was  passed  authorising 
the  organisation  of  a  police  force.  New  lamps  were 
then  erected ;  sentry  boxes  were  put  up  for  the  watchmen  ; 
a  cleansing  department  was  organised  to  replace  the  3 
men,  who  had  hitherto  been  employed  in  that  service  ; 
and  a  force  consisting  of  a  superintendent,  a  clerk,  a 
treasurer,  3  sergeants,  9  officers,  and  68  watchmen,  was 
put  in  working  order.  The  original  assessment  was 
4d.  per  £  on  rents  between  £4  and  £6  ;  6d.  between 
£6  and  £10  ;  9d.  between  £10  and  £15  ;  and  Is.  on 
rents  of  £15  or  upwards.  The  expenditure  the  first 
year  was  about  £5400.  By  1820  the  expenditure  had 
increased  to  nearly  £12,000,  and  there  were  then  20 
officers,  100  watchmen,  and  16  scavengers.  In  1842 
proposals  were  made  to  annex  the  burghs  of  Gorbals, 
Anderston,  and  Calton,  the  lands  of  Milton  and  the 


GLASGOW 

village  of  Port  Dimdas,  to  Glasgow  for  police  purposes  ; 
but  the  scheme  met  with  the  most  violent  opposi- 
tion. In  1845,  on  another  quarrel  of  the  same  sort 
arising,  it  was  intimated  in  parliament  that  unless 
Glasgow  was  prepared  to  put  its  police  force  into  proper 
order,  the  government  would  have  to  take  the  matter  in 
hand,  and  this  led  to  the  great  police  bill  of  1846, 
which,  with  subsequent  amendments  in  1862  and  1877, 
still  remains  the  police  act  of  the  city,  though  a  new 
bill  of  great  magnitude  is  at  present  (1882)  under  dis- 
cussion by  the  Town  Council,  and  will  probably,  ere  long, 
be  introduced  into  parliament.  In  1870  the  available 
force  consisted  of  1  chief  constable,  7  superintendents 
for  the  seven  divisions — namely,  the  A  or  Central,  the 
B  or  AVestern,  the  C  or  Eastern,  the  D  or  Southern,  the 
E  or  Northern,  the  F  or  St  RoUox,  and  the  '  Anchor ' 
or  marine  division — and  825  subordinate  officers  and 
men,  while  at  present  there  are  a  chief  constable,  7 
superintendents,  and  1060  subordinate  officers  and  men. 
In  1881-82,  for  the  year  ending  15  May,  the  ordinary 
income  of  the  commissioners  was,  for  police  purposes 
(including  lighting  and  cleansing),  £255,046,  Is.  ;  for 
statute  labour,  £47,848,  3s.  3Jd.  ;  for  the  sanitary  de- 
partment, £26,212,  17s.  4d.  ;  and  for  street  improve- 
ment purposes,  £18,276,  17s,  2d.— a  total  of  £347,383, 
ISs,  9^d,  The  ordinary  expenditure  was  respectively 
for  the  same  departments,  £205,455,  lis,,  £38,098, 
Is,  24d,,  £27,825,  ISs.  5d.,  and  £14,204,  6s.  lOd.  ; 
and  the  e.xtraordinary  expenditure,  £17,641,  5s.  lid., 
£43,973,  2s,  6d.,  £5521,  5s,  9d,,  nil,  and  £30,827, 
9s,  4d,  under  the  Municipal  Buildings  Act — a  total 
of  £383,547,  Os.  Hid.,  there  being  thus  a  balance  of 
new  debt  of  £36,163,  2s.  2d,  The  total  surplus  of 
assets  over  debts  in  several  of  the  departments  was 
£295,792,  6s,  9d.,  and  the  total  surplus  of  debts  over 
assets  in  other  departments  was  £278,430,  17s.  5d. 
The  borrowing  powers  extend  to  over  £700,000,  and  of 
this  £72,677,  2s.  Id,  still  remains  unexhausted. 

The  fire  brigade  now  forms  an  important  and  valuable 
part  of  the  police  system.  The  first  fire  engine  was 
acquired  b}'  the  city  in  1657,  being  one  of  the  results  of 
the  fire  experience  of  1652,  and  it  was  constructed  on 
the  model  of  the  Edinburgh  one  of  that  date.  In 
1725  a  new  one  was  purchased  in  London  for  £50.  The 
appliances  thus  provided  look  puny  when  compared 
with  the  apparatus  of  the  present  day,  but  the  fire 
brigade  itself  is  of  still  later  growth.  In  1818  there 
were  48  men  and  6  fire  engines,  and  in  1870  the  force 
consisted  of  70  men,  of  whom  30  were  stationed  at  the 
central  brigade  station,  and  the  others  distributed  at 
the  district  stations.  There  are  now  a  fire-master  and 
over  120  men,  with  the  most  recent  and  improved 
steam  extinguishing  appurtenances,  while,  scattered 
throughout  the  city,  there  are  about  7000  fire-cocks  or 
cleansing-cocks  that  may  be  used  as  such.  The  average 
yearly  number  of  fires  is  about  360, 

Attached  to  the  police  staff  there  are  also  a  medical 
officer  of  public  health,  3  city  analysts,  and  7  district 
surgeons,  a  master  of  works,  a  sanitary  inspector  and 
inspector  of  common  lodging-houses,  an  inspector  of 
cleansing,  and  an  inspector  of  lighting. 

Lighting. — Glasgow,  like  all  other  places,  was  for- 
merly dependent  on  the  moon  for  its  night  light,  and 
when  that  was  awanting,  those  of  the  inhabitants  who 
were  abroad  at  night  had  to  grope  their  way  as  best  they 
could,  or  provide  hand-lights  for  themselves.  During 
the  meeting  of  the  General  Assembly  in  1638  orders 
•were  given  for  the  inhabitants  to  hang  out  lights,  but  this 
was  a  mere  temporary  matter,  and  though  there  was 
a  feeble  attempt  in  1718  to  make  darkness  visible  by 
means  of  conical  lamps  with  tallow  candles  in  them, 
it  was  not  till  1780  that  public  lamps  were  fairly  intro- 
duced. In  that  year  the  magistrates  and  council 
ordered  nine  lamps  to  be  placed  on  the  S  side  of  the 
Trongate,  from  the  Tron  Steeple  to  Stockwell  Street, 
and  expressed  their  willingness  to  extend  the  line  to 
the  W  on  condition  that  the  proprietors  there  laid 
down  a  foot  pavement.  Lighting  with  gas  commenced 
in  the  streets  in  1818,  and  now  the  number  of  lamps 


GLASGOW 

in  streets  and  courts  is  over  12,000,  in  common  stairs 
about  28,000,  and  lit  by  the  Clyde  Trust  about  600,  or 
over  40,000  lights  every  night  altogether. 

In  pursuance  of  an  Actof  Parliament  obtained  in  1817, 
the  Glasgow  Gas  Light  Company  was  formed  in  1818, 
with  an  authorised  capital  of  £40,000,  and  a  subscribed 
capital  of  £30,000,  and,  in  1843,  another  was  started 
called  the  Glasgow  City  and  Suburban  Gas  Light  Com- 
pany, the  former  having  works  at  Tradeston,  Townhead, 
and  Partick,  and  the  latter  works  at  Dalmarnock,  These 
companies  supplied  gas  for  the  whole  district  till  1869, 
by  which  time,  however,  they  had  been  experiencing  the 
greatest  difficulty  in  meeting  the  ever-increasing  con- 
sumption. In  that  year  they  both  found  it  necessary 
to  apply  to  parliament  for  powers  to  increase  their 
capital  and  extend  their  works,  and  the  corporation 
then  stepped  in  and  obtained  an  Act  empowering  them 
to  acquire  all  the  old  works,  of  which  they  got  posses- 
sion in  the  following  year,  and  another  Act  has  since,  in 
1871,  still  further  enlarged  their  powers,  as  has  also  a 
provisional  order  obtained  in  the  present  year,  for  use  in 
the  event  of  electric  lighting  becoming  economically 
practicable.  The  capital  of  the  two  companies  jointly 
was,  at  the  date  of  transference,  £415,000,  and  the  an- 
nuity fixed  to  be  paid  on  it  was  9  per  cent,  on  £300,000 
and  6|  per  ceut.  on  £115,000,  Prior  to  1872  the  council 
had  so  improved  and  extended  the  works  at  Tradeston, 
Dalmarnock,  Tonnihead,  and  Partick  as  to  make  them 
capable  of  turning  out  9,000, 000  cubic  feet  every  24  hours. 
New  gasometers,  each  capable  of  holding  1,250,000 
cubic  feet  of  gas,  were  constructed  for  the  storage 
and  distribution  of  this  supply,  and  new  and  larger 
mains  were  laid  through  the  principal  streets.  They 
also  purchased  22i-  acres  of  gi'ound  at  Dawsholm,  in 
the  vicinity  of  Maryhill,  and  on  this  the  first  portion 
of  new  works  was  erected  in  1872-74.  This  part,  which 
cost  £150,000,  had  a  retort-house  600  feet  long  by  70 
wide,  and  was  capable  of  producing  3,000,000  cubic 
feet  of  gas  every  24  hours.  The  complete  w'orks  have 
other  two  of  these  retort-houses,  and  the  total  supply 
will,  therefore,  be  9,000,000  cubic  feet  every  24  hours, 
which,  with  the  old  works  (notwithstanding  that  those 
at  Townhead  and  Partick  have  since  been  abandoned), 
will  give  a  supply  of  17,000,000  cubic  feet  per  24  hours. 
The  new  works  have  great  facility  for  coal  supply,  by 
branches  from  the  Helensburgh  and  Stobcross  railways 
and  the  Forth  and  Clyde  Canal,  it  being  possible  to 
receive  1000  tons  of  coal  in  12  hours.  There  are 
machines  for  charging  and  emptying  the  retorts,  of 
which  there  are  in  the  works  at  Dawsholm,  Tradeston, 
and  Dalmarnock  3010  in  operation.  The  gas  is  con- 
veyed to  the  city  through  a  main  4  feet  in  diameter. 
The  condensers,  scrubbers,  and  purifyers  are  all  of  large 
capacity  and  improved  construction,  and  adjacent  is  a 
chemical  work  for  utilising  the  waste  products  of  the  gas 
manufacture.  The  gas  revenue  in  1882  was  £378,133, 
13s,  5d,  ;  the  expenditure,  including  £47,894,  7s, 
■\vritten  off  for  depreciation,  £302,400,  Is,  8d,  ;  the 
surplus,  after  paying  interest,  £8357,  In  1830  the 
quantity  of  gas  manufactured  was  100,068,200  cubic  feet ; 
in  the  year  ending  in  May  1882  it  was  2,056,094,000 
cubic  feet,  of  which  1,807,851,000  feet  were  accounted 
for,  the  rest  being  wasted  in  various  ways. 

Paving. — Under  the  department  of  statute  labour  the 
commissioners  attend  to  the  paving  of  the  streets,  etc. 
The  original  condition  of  the  thoroughfares  must  have 
been  very  poor,  but  the  authorities  were  at  a  very  early 
date  alive  to  the  necessity  of  something  being  done  for 
their  improvement,  for  in  1577  'a  calsaye  maker'  was 
appointed  for  two  years,  and  as  no  one  in  the  place  had 
sufficient  skill,  a  man  to  fill  the  post  was  brought  from 
Dundee,  In  1662  the  street  from  the  "West  Port  to  St 
Enoch's  Square  was  causewayed,  and  from  that  time 
operations  went  on  slowly.  In  1728  a  contract  was 
entered  into  by  which  the  magistrates  were  to  get  the 
causeways  of  the  whole  of  the  public  streets,  lanes,  etc, , 
for  fifteen  years  at  the  rate  of  £66  per  annum,  which 
shows  that  there  could  not  have  been  much  causeway  to 
uphold.     Now  the  carriage  ways  of  all  the  principal 

167 


GLASGOW 

streets  are  paved  with  granite,  greenstone,  or  wood 
cubes,  the  latter  material  being,  however,  used  only  in 
the  S  part  of  Buchanan  Street,  and  the  sum  expended 
for  paving  during  the  period  from  15  May  1856  to  15 
May  1882  has  been  £378,602,  lis.  9d.  The  first  foot- 
path was  laid  in  1777  on  the  E  side  of  Candleriggs, 
between  Trongate  and  Bell  Street,  while  now  there  are 
footpaths  all  over  the  city  and  suburbs,  and  even  ex- 
tending some  distance  into  the  country  round,  most  of 
them  well  laid  with  stone  or  with  some  variety  of  the 
many  artificial  pavements  now  so  widely  employed, 
while  on  the  outskirts  such  paths  are  kid  with  firm 
gravel. 

Sewage. — Under  the  health  department  are  cleansing, 
hospitals,  and  sewage.  The  hospitals  at  Belvidere 
have  been  already  noticed.  The  cleansing  is  carried 
out  by  means  of  morning  dust  carts  in  the  way  cus- 
tomary in  large  towns.  Up  till  1790  the  Glasgowegians 
managed  to  exist  and  defy  disease,  despite  of  their 
having  no  proper  drainage ;  but  in  that  year  the  first 
sewers  were  formed,  and  mthin  the  following  25  years 
they  were  laid  down  in  some  45  of  the  streets,  and  now 
there  is  a  thorough  sewer  system  over  the  whole  of  the 
city  and  suburbs,  though  in  this  department  much 
remains  to  be  done  to  abate  the  nuisance  caused  by  the 
condition  of  the  Clyde  and  Kelvin.  The  enormous 
amount  of  drainage  throughout  the  city,  including  the 
issue  of  poisonous  and  putrid  matter  from  public  works, 
and  the  pouring  of  the  whole  of  this  volume  into  the 
harbour,  rendered  sluggish  by  the  depth  of  the  water  and 
the  flow  of  the  tide,  used  to  render  the  river  for  miles 
downward  from  Albert  Bridge  but  little  better  than  one 
vast  open  common  sewer.  The  Kelvin  is  in  the  same 
condition,  though  the  construction  of  a  cross  intercept- 
ing sewer  on  the  Glasgow  side  will  soon  materially 
improve  its  condition.  The  nuisance  from  the  open 
river  sewer  has  occasioned  much  discussion  as  to  the 
devising  of  some  grand  scheme  for  the  conveyance  of 
the  sewage  to  a  point  near  the  head  of  the  firth, 
and  the  nuisance  created  by  the  sluggish  flow  and  the 
oxidation  of  the  contents  in  the  sewers  beneath  the 
streets  has  also  given  rise  to  arguments  as  to  methods 
of  flushing  and  ventilation.  Sir  John  Hawkshaw,  who 
in  1876  reported  on  the  pollution  of  the  Clyde  and  its 
tributaries,  suggested  that  the  best  scheme  for  disposing 
of  the  sewage  of  Glasgow  would  he  to  convey  it  beyond 
Whiteinoh,  and  there  allow  it  to  enter  the  Firth  of 
Clyde.  He  estimated  the  cost  of  the  scheme  at 
£1,500,000,  and  recommended  the  formation  of  a  board 
of  sanitary  commissioners,  to  be  selected  by  the  various 
town  councils  or  sanitary  authorities  within  the  area 
embraced  by  his  scheme,  and  to  be  furnished  with 
ample  powers  to  deal  with  the  pollution  of  the  Clyde 
basin.  In  1878  another  scheme  was  submitted  by  Mr 
Bateman,  and  in  1878  other  two — one  bj'  Dr  Wallace 
and  one  by  Mr  Craig.  As  each  involved  an  expenditure 
of  about  £1,500,000,  the  matter  was  left  over  till  it 
should  be  seen  what  effect  the  removal  of  the  weir  above 
the  upper  harbour  should  have  on  the  scour  of  the  river. 
After  this  obstruction  had  been  displaced  it  was  found 
that  the  rapidity  of  the  current  between  Glasgow  and 
Greenock  had  increased  to  four  times  its  former  rate, 
and  such  has  consequently  been  the  improvement  on 
the  condition  of  the  Clyde  that  the  sewage  question 
has  since  ceased  to  be  one  of  the  burning  municipal 
topics. 

Public  Baths. — Under  the  police  commissioners  there 
are  public  baths  at  Greenhead,  London  Road,  Kennedy 
Street,  North  AVoodside,  and  Cranstonhill  ;  while 
another  of  the  same  sort,  with  swimming  bath  and  all 
the  ordinary  conveniences,  is  to  be  erected  on  vacant 
ground  near  the  cathedral.  The  total  assessment  for 
police,  etc.,  purposes  is  at  present  2s.  2d.  per  £  on 
rents  of  £10  and  upwards,  and  Is.  5|d.  on  rents  under 
£10.  The  corporation  propose  to  apply  to  parliament 
in  the  ensuing  session  of  1883  for  a  bill  to  transfer  to 
and  vest  in  the  corporation  the  borrowing  powers  of  all 
or  any  of  the  city  trusts.  Should  this  pass,  the  council 
hopes  to  be  able  to  borrow  money  at  low  rates,  such  as 
168 


GLASGOW 

prevail  at  Liverpool  and  Manchester,  and  should  they 
be  able  to  do  this,  the  saving  '  over  the  rates  at  present 
payable  would  be,'  according  to  Mr  J.  WyUie  Guild, 
'about  £18,600.'  In  addition  to  all  their  other  nume- 
rous duties  already  mentioned,  the  members  of  council 
also  manage,  in  whole  or  in  part,  the  following  educa- 
tional and  charitable  funds  : — William  Lamb's  bequest, 
founded  in  1869,  the  proceeds  to  be  divided  among  the 
Royal  Infii'mary,  the  Blind  Asylum,  the  Deaf  and  Dumb 
Institution,  deserving  poor,  etc.  ;  income,  with  balance 
at  15  May  1882,  £782,  5s.  7d.  ;  stock,  £13,073, 12s.  8d.  : 
Lieutenant-Colonel  Alexander  Maclean's  trust,  founded 
in  1859  for  the  education  of  poor  and  deserving  boys  in 
Scotland  of  the  name  of  Maclean  ;  100  boys  and  4  bur- 
sars are  educated  ;  income  for  year  ending  15  May  1882, 
£597,  lis.  5d.  ;  expenditure,  £481,  6s.  9d.  ;  stock, 
£22,798,  9s.  7d.  :  James  Murdoch's  trust,  supporting 
the  school  already  mentioned  in  St  Andrews  Square 
and  others  in  Springburn  and  Rottenrow  ;  income,  £550, 
6s.  lOd.  ;  expenditure,  £153,  12s.  2d.  ;  stock,  including 
value  of  buildings,  £15,941,  13s.  3d.  :  John  M'Lachlan's 
free  school  trust,  founded  in  1819  (school  already 
noticed) ;  income,  £382,  16s.  4d.  ;  expenditure,  £291, 
6s.  Id.  ;  stock,  inclusive  of  buildings,  £10,159,  Os.  6d.  : 
Rev.  Dr  Andrew  Bell's  trust,  founded  in  1831  for  the 
maintenance  of  schools  and  the  instruction  of  children 
on  the  Madras  sj-stem ;  income,  including  balance, 
£1024,  16s.  2d.  ;  expenditure,  £225,  3s.  3d.  ;  stock, 
£9791,  3s.  Id.  :  the  Scotstarvit  mortification,  founded 
in  1653  by  Sir  John  Scott  of  Scotstarvit,  originally  for 
the  purpose  of  apprenticing  to  trades  poor  boys  in  Glas- 
gow of  the  name  of  Scott,  but  since  1810  paid  to  George 
Wilson's  Charity  School,  already  referred  to,  and  applied 
to  the  clothing  and  education  of  boys ;  income,  £320, 
16s.  2d.  ;  expenditure,  £168,  8s.  :  Stewart  bursaries  in 
the  University,  4  of  £15  each ;  income,  £61,  7s.  9d.  ; 
stock,  £1570,  Is.  lOd.  :  Maxwell's  free  school  trust, 
founded  in  1825,  revenue  accumulating:  John  Ander- 
son's school  trust,  founded  in  1828  for  the  education  of 
the  children  of  poor  persons  residing  in  Calton  ;  income, 
£105, 15s.  5d.,  still  accumulating;  stock,  £2783, 13s.  8d.: 
Mary  Hood's  bequest,  founded  in  1827  for  '  the  promo- 
tion of  education  within  the  burgh  of  Calton  ;'  income, 
£42,  ISs.  3d.  ;  expenditure,  £67,  12s.  4d.  ;  stock,  £1307, 
3s.  4d.  :  Robert  Buchanan's  mortification,  founded  in 
1873  for  '  the  aid  of  poor  but  respectable  males  or  females, 
not  being  paupers,  natives  of  Scotland  resident  in  Glas- 
gow for  five  years  before  the  date  of  their  application, 
and  60  years  of  age  complete ;'  income,  £225,  2s.  7d.  ; 
expenditure  (on  76  pensioners),  £243  ;  stock,  £4986, 
9s.  8d.  :  James  Coulter's  mortification,  founded  in  1787 
for  the  benefit  of  deserving  persons  '  in  indigent  or 
narrow  circumstances,'  preference  to  be  given  to  those 
named  Coulter  or  Peadie,  related,  however  remotely,  to 
the  donor  ;  income,  £54  ;  expenditure  (on  12  pensioners), 
£50  ;  stock,  £1327,  10s.  :  James  Coulter's  mortification 
for  inventors,  founded  by  the  same  donor,  for  a  prize  in 
money  or  a  medal  every  year  to  persons  '  who  have 
invented  or  improved  or  confirmed  in  practice  any 
machine  or  method  of  working  a  valuable  manufacture 
in  Glasgow,  or  within  10  miles  of  it,'  etc.  ;  failing 
claimants,  it  is  to  be  applied  as  a  source  of  '  temporary 
supply '  to  deserving  poor  persons ;  the  judges  for  in- 
ventors are  the  Lord  Provost,  the  Dean  of  Guild,  3 
assessors  from  the  Merchants'  House  and  3  from  the 
Trades'  House ;  no  inventor  has  claimed  for  a  long 
time  ;  income,  £9  ;  stock,  £255,  5s.  :  St  Nicholas'  Hos- 
pital (already  mentioned)  ;  10  pensioners  ;  income,  £63, 
6s.  4d.  ;  stock,  £585,  lis.  4d.  :  one-fifth  of  the  free 
rent  of  the  island  of  Shuna,  bequeathed  in  1829  by 
James  Yates  to  the  magistrates  of  Glasgow  for  aiding 
the  erection  or  improvement  of  any  public  building,  or 
for  any  other  useful  or  charitable  purpose  ;  the  rental  is 
about  £270  per  annum,  and  the  remaining  four-fifths  are 
disposed  of  in  the  proportion  of  one-fifth  to  Anderson's 
College,  one-fifth  to  the  Royal  Infirmary,  and  two-fifths 
to  increase  the  salaries  attached  to  the  University  chairs 
of  natural  philosophy,  moral  philosophy,  botany,  and 
mathematics. 


GLASGOW 

Tropcrly. — The  rental  of  Glasgow  at  different  periods 
is  shown  in  the  followiug  table  : — 


Year. 

Rental, 

Year. 

Rental. 

1712,  .    . 
1803,  .    . 
1S06,  .    . 
1816,  .     . 
1856,  .     . 
1S61,  .     . 

£7,840 

81,484 

152,733 

240,232 

1,362,168 

1,625,143 

1871,  .    . 
1875,  .     . 
ISSO,  .     . 
1881,  .     . 
1SS2,  .     . 
1S8j,  .     . 

£2,055,388 
2,720,687 
3,406,003 
3,400,517 
3,417,263 
3,424,490 

The  rise,  nearly  double  in  the  three  years  between  1803 
and  1806,  is  very  noteworthy.  Previous  to  1712  there 
was  no  authoritative  rental ;  but  in  that  year  the  magis- 
trates and  council  had  a  sworn  valuation  made,  hy 
command  of  the  Commissioners  of  the  Convention  of 
Koyal  Burghs,  so  that  the  cess  might  be  properly  stented. 
The  rise  siuce  the  close  of  last  century  has  been  very 
marvellous,  as  has  also  the  increase  in  the  value  of  pro- 
perty. In  1776  the  property  of  Stobcross  was  sold  at 
the  rate  of  £50  per  acre  :  some  of  it  has  since  been  sold 
at  35s.  per  square  yard.  When  Ingram  Street,  Virginia 
Street,  Buchanan  Street,  Jamaica  Street,  St  Enoch's 
Square,  and  Argyle  Street  were  laid  out,  the  ground 
was  sold  for  from  2s.  6d.  to  4s.  6d.  per  square  yard. 
In  the  first  five  it  is  now  worth  from  £20  to  £25  per 
square  yard,  while  some  sites  in  Argyle  Street  have 
been  pm'chased  at  £50,  £80,  and  even  £100  per  square 
yard. 

Poimlation,  etc. — The  following  table  shows  the 
population  of  Glasgow  at  intervals  for  nearly  600 
j'ears : — 


Year. 

Population. 

Year. 

Population. 

1300,  .    . 

(about)  1,500 
(about)  2,000 

1811,  .    . 

100,749 

1460,  .     . 

1S21,  .     . 

147,043 

1600,  .     . 

7,000 

1831,  .     . 

202.426 

1660,  ,     . 

14,678 

1841,  .     . 

255,650 

1708,  .     . 

12,766 

1851,  .     . 

329,098 

1757,  .     . 

23,646 

1801,  .     . 

395,503 

1791,  .     . 

66,578 

1871,  .     . 

477,732 

1801,  .     . 

77,385 

1S81,  .     . 

487,985 

This  is  the  population  within  the  parliamentai'y 
boundaries.  In  1881  the  population  of  Glasgow,  muni- 
cipal and  suburban,  reached  the  grand  total  of  674,095, 
of  which  the  parliamentary  burgh  contained,  as  above 
stated,  487,985,  while  Partick  had  27,410;  Govan 
50,506  ;  Eutherglen  13,786  ;  Maryhill  12,884  ;  PoUok- 
shaws  9363  ;  Shettlestou  9229  ;  Shawlands  798  ; 
Cathcart,  Crossbill,  Mount  Florida,  Laugside,  and 
Crossmyloof,  12,198  ;  Huchesontown  (landward),  Pol- 
madie,  Jenny's  Burn,  and  parts  of  Govanhill  and 
Strathbungo,  6950 ;  'Tradeston  (landward),  East  Pol- 
lokshields,  and  parts  of  Strathbungo  and  Crossbill, 
5451  ;  Kinning  Park  (landward)  11,552  ;  Dennistoun 
(landward)  6009  ;  St  Rollox  (landward)  945  ;  Gorbals 
(landward)  5010,  a  total  of  186,010,  being  an  increase 
in  the  suburbs  for  ten  years,  from  1871,  of  97,165,  or 
nearly  double.  Some  of  the  figures  are  noteworthy. 
Within  the  10  years  preceding  1881,  the  population  of 
Govan  had  increased  more  than  2J  times  ;  Maryhill  3 
times  ;  the  district  given  above  as  Hutchesontown 
(landward),  etc.,  more  than  6  times  ;  the  district 
Tradeston  (landward),  etc.,  4  times;  Kinning  Park, 
nearly  twice ;  Dennistoun,  nearly  twice  ;  St  RoUos 
(landward)  4  times ;  and  Gorbals  (landward)  more 
than  3  times.  The  number  of  births  for  the  20 
years,  from  1861  to  1881,  was,  on  an  average,  18,949 
every  year ;  the  deaths,  on  an  average,  13,763  every 
year,  so  that  the  natural  increase  was  at  the  rate  of 
5186  every  year,  or  the  natural  increase  of  population 
for  20  years  was  103,723 ;  the  actual  increase  ^vithin  the 
last  10  years  alone  has  been  111,598.  The  Eegistrar- 
Geueral's  estimate  of  the  population  for  the  present  year 
(1882)  is  514,048,  but  the  medical  officer  of  health  for 


GLASGOW 

Glasgow  has,  after  careful  inquiry  and  the  preparation 
of  a  partial  special  census,  arrived  at  the  conclusion  that 
this  is  under  the  mark,  and  that  the  actual  population 
in  June  1882  was  531,200,  an  increase  from  the  time  of 
the  census  of  20,384,  or,  from  June  1881,  of  19,166. 
The  density  of  the  population  to  the  acre  was,  in  1871, 
before  the  clearances  effected  by  the  Improvement  Trust 
92 '5  on  an  average,  while  in  the  quondam  Clyde  regis- 
tration district  it  reached  198.  The  average  is  now 
(1882)  85 '206  to  the  acre;  and  the  average  number  of 
inhabitants  to  each  house  on  the  basis  of  the  1881  census 
is  4745.  One  person  in  37'42  is  a  pauper.  The  total 
number  of  houses  in  the  municipality  in  the  year  1882 
was  119,707,  of  which  110,638  were  inhabited  and  the 
remainder  empty,  this  being  exclusive  of  the  houses  in 
course  of  construction.  The  municipal  electors  for  the 
present  year  number  79,581,  of  whom  12,986  are  females, 
and  the  school  board  electors  119,743. 

The  average  yearly  number  of  deaths  for  the  last  ten 
years  has  been  13,763,  of  which  nearly  half  are  cases 
where  the  age  was  five  years  or  under  ;  about  }j  between 
five  and  twenty  ;  about  ^between  twenty  and  sixty  ;  and 
about  -}  upwards  of  sixty ;  more  than  -j  of  the  average 
number  of  deaths  is  due  to  consumption  and  acute 
diseases  of  the  lungs  ;  about  ^  to  nervous  diseases  of 
children  ;  about  ^  to  scarlet-fever,  and  other  diseases 
that  mainly  affect  children  ;  while  in  more  than  -J  from 
various  other  diseases,  about  1  death  in  every  forty  is 
due  to  accidents,  or  some  other  sort  of  violence.  The 
death-rate  in  the  various  localities  varies  very  much, 
being  in  the  districts  round  High  Street  more  than 
double  what  it  is  in  the  West  end.  The  annual  average 
for  the  last  ten  years  is  about  23  per  1000.  The  healthiest 
month  is  September,  the  least  so  is  March.  The  average 
yearly  number  of  marriages  for  the  last  ten  years  is 
about  4800.  The  average  rainfall  is  about  40  inches, 
but  in  many  years  rain  falls  to  a  greater  or  less  degree  on 
200  days  in  the  year.  The  average  mean  temperature 
is  about  48°. 

Parliamentary  Ile2)resentation. — The  first  mention  of 
Glasgow  as  being  represented  in  the  Scottish  Parliament 
is  in  1546,  and  from  that  time  to  the  Union  it  fifty-four 
times  sent  a  representative  to  the  various  parliaments 
held  down  to  1703,  the  member,  on  many  occasions, 
being  the  provost.  After  the  Union,  for  a  period  of  125 
years,  it  had  only  a  fourth  part  of  a  member,  as  the  repre- 
sentative was  returned  by  Rutherglen,  Renfrew,  Dum- 
barton, and  Glasgow  conjointly.  This  came,  however, 
to  an  end  in  1832,  when  the  Reform  Bill  provided  that 
there  were  to  be  two  members  returned  entirely  by  the 
electors  in  the  city  within  the  parliamentary  boundary, 
which  was  then  enlarged,  and  by  the  Reform  Act  of 
1868  the  number  of  members  was  further  increased  to 
three.  The  parliamentary  electors  for  1867  numbered 
18,361,  for  1868  they  numbered  47,854,  and  for  1882 
they  number  60,313. 

Royal  Visits,  etc. — The  first  royal  visit  to  Glasgow 
after  the  overthrow  of  the  kingdom  of  Strathclyde, 
seems  to  have  been  in  1136,  wdien  King  David  was 
present  at  the  consecration  of  the  original  Cathedral, 
and  from  that  time  there  are  no  indications  of  a  visit 
again  till  1510,  when  James  IV.  visited  the  place  in 
high  state.  The  next  royal  visit  was  the  historical  one 
paid  by  Queen  Mary  to  Darnley  when  he  was  lying  ill 
in  Glasgow  in  1567.  James  VI.  seems  to  have  been  in 
Glasgow  in  1601  and  again  in  1617,  but  details  of  his 
visits  do  not  seem  to  have  been  preserved.  In  1681  the 
Dulve  of  York,  afterwards  James  VII.,  paid  a  visit  of 
two  days,  during  which  the  council  spent  a  sum  equal 
to  £333,  17s.  lOd.  in  his  entertainment,  including  the 
cost  of  the  gold  box  in  which  his  burgess  ticket  was 
presented,  and  from  that  time  none  of  the  sovereigns 
seem  to  have  honoured  the  city  with  their  presence  till 
1849,  when  the  Queen,  on  14  Aug.,  landed  at  the  foot 
of  West  Street  and  drove  through  the  principal  streets, 
being  everywhere  welcomed  with  the  greatest  enthusiasm. 
In  1866  the  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  as  representing  the 
Queen,  came  to  unveil  the  statue  of  the  Prince  Consort 
in  George  Square ;   in  1868  the   Prince  and  Princess 

169 


GLASGOW 

of  Wales  visited  the  city  to  lay  the  foundation-stone 
of  the  new  University  Buildings  ;  and  they  came  again 
in  1876,  when  the  Prince  laid  the  foundation-stone  of 
the  new  Post  Office ;  while  finally,  in  1882,  the  Duke 
and  Duchess  of  Albany  paid  it  a  visit  for  the  purpose  of 
opening  the  Exhibition  of  the  branch  of  the  Royal 
School  of  Art-needlework  in  Glasgow. 

The  General  Assembly  of  the  Church  of  Scotland  met 
in  Glasgow  in  1610,  and  again  in  1638  ;  and  the  Free 
Church  Assembly  met  here  in  Oct.  1843 — the  second 
meeting  after  the  Disruption — and  again  in  1878.  The 
British  Association  has  met  at  Glasgow  three  times — 
\n  18i0,  in  1855,  and  in  1876.  The  Social  Science  Con- 
gress met  in  Glasgow  in  1860,  and  again  in  1874. 

The  distinguished  natives  of  Glasgow  have  been  so 
numerous  that  a  considerable  space  would  be  occupied 
by  a  mere  list  of  them.  The  city  has  given  the  title  of 
Earl  in  the  Scottish  peerage  since  1703  to  the  noble 
family  of  Boyle.  From  1699  till  1703  the  title  was 
Baron  Boyle  of  Kelburn,  Stewartoun,  Cumbraes,  Fin- 
nick,  Largs,  and  Dairy ;  from  1703  Viscount  Kelburne 
and  Earl  of  Glasgow,  in  the  peerage  of  Scotland ;  and 
from  1815  Baron  Boyle  of  Hawkshead,  in  the  peerage 
of  England.  His  lordship's  seats  are  Hawkshead  House 
in  Renfrew,  Kelburn  House  in  Ayrshire,  Crawford 
Priory  in  Fife,  and  the  Garrison  or  Big  Cumbrae  in 
Bute. 

See  also,  among  various  authorities,  John  M  'Ure's  View 


GLASGOW 

of  tJw  City  of  Glasgow  (1736,  new  ed.  1830) ;  Andrew 
Brown's  History  of  Glasgow{2vo\s., 1795-97) ;  Denholm's 
History  of  the  City  of  Glasgow  (1804) ;  James  Cleland's 
Annals  of  Glasgoio  (1816) ;  Ewing's  History  of  the  Mer- 
chants' House,  1605-1816  (1817);  M'Lellan's  Cathedral 
Church  of  Glasgow  (1833) ;  Buchanan's  Memoralilia  of 
the  City  of  Glasgow,  1588-1750  (1835,  new  ed.  1868) 
Eegistrum  Episcoyatus  Glasgucnsis  (Maitland  Club,  1 843) 
Liber  Collegii  Nostri  Domini  (Maitland  Club,  1846) 
Pagan's  Sketch  of  the  History  of  Glasgow  (1847) ;  Spal- 
ding's Memorialls  of  the  Trublcs  in  Scotland  (Spalding 
Club,  1850) ;  Marwick's  Extracts  from  the  Burgh  Records 
of  Glasgoxu  (Burgh  Records  Society) ;  Glasgoio  Past  and 
Present  (1851-56)  ;  Miinimcnta  Universitatis  Glasguensis 
(Maitland  Club,  1854) ;  John  Strang's  Glasgow  and  its 
Clubs  (1856) ;  W.  West  Watson's  Pc2}orts  on  the  Vital, 
Social,  and  Economical  Statistics  of  Glasgoio  (1863-81) 
Raid's— 'Senex'—OZ(^  Glasgow  and  its  Environs  (1864) 
Peter  Mackenzie's  Peminiscences  of  Glasgoio  and  the  West 
of  Scotland  (1865-66) ;  Burnet's  History  of  the  Glasgow 
Water  Supply  (1869) ;  Deas'  The  Paver  Clyde  (1873, 
enlarged  1876) ;  Rental  Book  of  the  Diocese  of  Glasgow 
(Grampian  Club,  1875);  Andrew  Mactreorge's  Old  Glas- 
gow, the  Place  and  the  People  (1880) ;  Hill's  Hospital  and 
School  in  Glasgow,  Founded  by  George  and  Thomas 
HutcJieson  (ISSl);  Deas'  The  Paver  Clyde  (1881);  Mac- 
Gregor's  History  of  Glasgow  (1881) ;  Wallace's  Popular 
Sketch  of  the  History  of  Glasgow  (1882). 


INDEX    TO    GLASGOW. 


A. 

PAGE 

PAGE 

PAGE 

AcABEMT,  Glasgow, 

.       151 

Bishops,    .... 

.          99 

City  Improvement  Trust, . 

.     164 

Accountants'  Hall,    . 

.    135 

Bishop's  Forest, 

.     106 

City  of  Glasgow  Bank,  Failure 

Albert  Bridge,  . 

.    127 

Blackfriars  or  College  Church, 

.     159 

of 

118 

Albert  Street  U.P.  Churcl 

,       .     161 

Blind  Asylum,  . 

.    141 

City  of  Glasgow  Insurance  Co 

Alexandra  Park, 

.    129 

Blythswood  Square,  . 

.      96 

Office,     .... 

138 

Almshouse,  Back,     . 

.     105 

Board  Schools,  . 

.    152 

City  Parochial  Board, 

155 

Ancient  History, 

.      97 

Botanic  Institution,  . 

.     143 

Claremont  Street    Independen 

t 

Anderson's  College,  . 

.     149 

Botanical  Society, 

.     151 

Church, 

161 

Anderston  Free  Church, 

.     160 

Bridge  of  Sighs, 

.    127 

Cleland  Testimonial, 

130 

Anderston  U.P.  Church, 

.     161 

Bridgegate, 

.      95 

Clothes  Market, 

133 

Arcades,    . 

.     139 

Bridges,     .... 

126 

Clubs,        .... 

138 

Archffiological  Society, 

.     143 

Bridgeton  Working  Men's  Club 

,    136 

Clyde  Trust,      . 

126 

Architecture,     . 

.      94 

British  Association,  . 

170 

Clydesdale  Bank, 

137 

Argyle  Street,  . 

.      95 

British  Linen  Bank,  . 

138 

Coal  (Statistics), 

124 

Arms  of  Glasgow,      . 

.      98 

Butts,  Battle  of, 

104 

College  of  Science  and  Arts, 

150 

Art  Chib,  . 

.     143 

College  or  Blackfriars  Church, 

159 

Athenaeum, 

.    133 

Commerce, 

118 

C. 

Commercial  Bank,     . 

138 

Caledonia  Road  U.P.  Church 

161 

Congregational  Churches, 

161 

B. 

Caledonian  Insurance  Co.  Office 

138 

Conservative  Club,    . 

139 

Back  Almshouse,    . 

.     105 

Calton  Mechanics'  Institution, 

136 

Convalescent  Home, . 

142 

Bank  of  Scotland, 

.     138 

Cathedral, 

156 

Convents,  .... 

162 

Banks, 

.    137 

Cattle  Market,  . 

133 

Corporation,  The,      . 

162 

Bank  Failures,  . 

.    118 

Cemeteries, 

127 

Corporation  Galleries, 

134 

Baptist  Churches, 

.     162 

Charitable  Bequests, 

142 

Courts,      .... 

130 

Barony  Parochial  Board, 

.     156 

Chest,  Diseases  of.  Infirmary, 

141 

Covenanters, 

110 

Barracks,  . 

.    136 

Churches  and  Chapels,  various, 

161 

Cowcaddens, 

96 

Baths,  Public,   . 

.    168 

Church  of  Christ,  The,       . 

161 

Cranes  (Docks), 

126 

Bazaar,  City,     . 

.    133 

Circus  (Hengler's),    . 

137 

Cranstonhill  Waterworks  Co., 

166 

Bell  o'  the  Brae, 

.      94 

City  Bazaar, 

133 

Cross,  The, 

108 

Benevolent  Societies, 

.     142 

City  Fever  Hospital, 

140 

Crossbill 

97 

Bibliography,    . 
170 

.     170 

City  Hall, 

133 

Cross  Tolbooth, 

131 

GLASGOW 

PAGE 

CuUoden,   News   of  the   Battle 

of 115 

Custom  House, ....     133 


Dalmaknock  Bridge,      .       .  127 

Darien  Scheme,          .        .        .  112 

Day  ludustrial  School,      .        .  155 

Destitute  Homes,  etc.,       .        .  141 

Diseases  of  the  Ear,  Hospital  for,  141 

Dispensaries,     ....  139 

Docks, 125 

Dog  and  Bird  Market,       .        .  133 

Dorcas  Societies,  etc.,        .        .  142 

Dunlop  Street  Theatre,      .        .  137 

E. 

Eastern  Botanical  Society,  .  151 
Ecclesiastical  Affairs,  .  .156 
Educational  Institutions,  .        .145 

Elgin  Place  Independent  Church,  161 

Employers'  Liability  Insur.  Co.,  138 
Engineers  and  Shipbuilders,  In- 
stitution of,    .        .        .        .143 

Episcopal  Church  in  Scotland,  .  162 

Established  Churches,        .        .  156 

Established  Church  Presbytery,  160 

Evangelical  Union  Churches,     .  161 

Evangelistic  Hall,      .        .        .  161 

Ewing  Bequests,        .        .        .  142 

Exchanges,         ....  132 

Exports, 121 

Extent 92 

Eye  Infirmary,  ....  140 


Failubes  of  Banks,         .        .    118 

Ferries, 126 

Fever  Hospital,  .        .        .     140 

Fire  Brigade,  .  .  .  .167 
Fishmarket,  ....  133 
Football  Clubs,  .        .        .143 

Franciscan  Church,  .  .  .  162 
Free  Churches,  ....  161 
Free  Church  Assembly,  .  .170 
Free  Church  Presbytery,  .  .  161 
Free  Church  Synod  of  Glasgow 

and  Ayr,  ....  161 
Free  Church  Theological  College,  151 
Free  Presbyterian  Church,         .     161 


Gaiety  Theatre,  .  .  .  137 
Gallery  (Institute  of  Fine  Arts),  134 
Gas  Companies,  .  .  .  167 
General  Assembly,  .  .  .  170 
General  Assembly  (1638), .  .  109 
General  Assurance  Co.,  .  .  138 
Geological  Society,    .        .        .     143 

George  Square 96 

Girder  Bridge,  .  .  .  .127 
Girls'  Industrial  School,  .  .  154 
Glasgow  Art  Club,  .  .  .143 
Glasgow    Association    for    the 

Higher  Education  of  Women,  151 
Glasgow  Bridge,  .  .  .126 
Glasgow  Central  Working  Men's 

Club,      ,        ....    136 


Glasgow  Eye  Infirmary,     . 
Glasgow  Juridical  Society, 
Glasgow  Legal  and  Speculative 
Society,  .        .        .        . 

Glasgow  Public  Dispensary, 
Glasgow  Veterinary  College, 
Glasgow  Waterworks  Co., 

Gorbals, 

Gorbals  Waterworks  Co., . 

Govan, 

Govan  Combination, . 

Govanhill,  .        .        .        . 

Grand  Theatre, 

Great  Western  Bank,  Failure  of. 

Green,  The,       .        .        .        . 

Grey  friar's  U.P.  Church,  . 

Greyfriar's  Wynd, 

Guild,  Dean  of.  Court, 


PAGE 

140 
143 

143 

.     140 

.     150 

.     166 

.       96 

.     166 

96,  202-210 

.     156 

.     206 

.    137 

118 

128 

161 

106 

118 


Halls,  Public,         .        .        .     133 

Harbour, 124 

Hengler's  Cirque,  .  .  .  137 
High  School,  .  .  .  .151 
HiUhead,  .        .        .        .207 

History,  ....  97-118 
Homes,  Asylums,  etc.,  .  .  141 
Hospitals,  ....     139 

Hotels, 139 

House  of  Refuge  for  Boys,  .  154 
House  of  Refuge  for  Girls,  .  154 
House  of  Shelter,  .  .  .  141 
Hunterian  Club,  .  .  .  143 
Hutcheson's  Hospital,  .  .  152 
Hutchesontown,        ...       97 


Improvement  Trust,  .  .  164 
Incorporations,  Trade,  .  .  134 
Incurables,  Relief  of.  Associa- 
tion for,  .  .  .  .142 
Independent  Churches,  .  .  161 
Industrial  Schools,  .  .  .  154 
Industries,  .  .  .  121-124 
Infirmaries,  etc.,        .        .        .     139 

Ingram  Street 96 

Inland  Revenue  Office,  .  .  133 
Institute  of  Fine  Arts  (Gallery),  134 
Insurance  Offices,  .  .  .  138 
Iron  (Statistics),        .        .        .123 


John  Street  U.P.  Chuech,    .  161 

Juridical  Society,      .        .        .  143 

Juvenile  Delinquency  Board,     .  154 

K. 

Kelvin  Bridges,      .       .       .  127 

Kelvingrove  Museum,        .        .  136 

Kelvingrove  Park,     .        .        .  129 

Kelvingrove  U.P.  Church,        .  161 

L. 

Langside,  Battle  op,      .       .  104 

Lansdowne  U.P.  Church,  .        .  161 

Legal  and  Speculative  Society,  143 

Leper  Hospital,         .        .     101,  109 

libraries, 135 


GLASGOW 

PAOB 

Lighting 167 

Literary  Societies,     .        .        .  142 

Little  Sisters  of  the  Poor, .        .  142 

Lock  Hospital 141 

Lodging  Houses,        .        .        .  165 

London  Street,  ....  195 

Lunatic  Asylum,        .        .        .  141 

M. 
M'Alpine's  Mortification,    .    142 
Magdalene  Institution,      .        .     141 
Malt  Tax  Riots,         .        .        .114 
Manufactures  and  Industries,  121-124 

133 
141 
150 
135 
162 
95 
105 
135 
142 
129 
139 
142 
98 
97 
162 


Market  Places,  . 
Maternity  Hospital,  . 
Medical  School,  Western, 
Merchants'  Houses,  . 
Methodists, 
Miller  Street,     . 
Mint,  The, 
Mitchell  Library, 
Mitchell's  Mortification, 
Monuments, 

Monuments  in  the  Cathedral,    . 
Mortifications  and  Bequests, 
Motto  of  Glasgow,     . 
Mungo  Street,   .... 
Municipal  Affairs, 
Municipal   and   County    Build- 
ings  130 

Museums 136 

N. 
National  Bank,  .  .  .  1 38 
Natural  History  Society,  .  .  143 
Navigation,  ....  120 
Necropolis,  .  .  ,  .128 
Nelson's  Monument, .  .  .  130 
New  Club,  .  .  .  .139 
Newspapers,  ....  145 
Night  Asylum,  ....  141 
No-Popery  Riots,  .  .  .116 
Normal  Schools,  .  .  .  151 
North  Prison,  .  .  .  .131 
Northern  Yacht  Club,  .  .  143 
Nurses'  Training  Home,    .        .     142 


Observatory,  ....  149 
Old  Clothes  Market,  .        .     133 

Old  Mint,  .        .        .        .105 

Ophthalmic  Institution,  .  .  140 
Original  Secession  Church,  .  161 
Orphan  Homes,  etc.,         .        .    141 


Parishes,         ....  155 

Parks, 128 

Parks  and  Galleries  Trust,        .  164 

Parliamentary  Representation, .  169 

Parochial  Boards,      .        .        .  155 
Partick,     ....       96,  207 

Paving, 167 

Peerage, 170 

Philanthropic  Societies,     .        .  141 

Philosophical  Society,       .        .  142 

Physicians'  and  Surgeons'  Hall,  135 


Police, 

Police  Buildings, 


.     101, 166 
.    131 
171 


GLASGOW 

PAGE 

Polloksliields,   .        .        .        . 

206 

Population,        .        .        .        . 

169 

Post  Office, 

132 

Princess's  Theatre,    . 

137 

Printing,   . 

144 

Prisons,     . 

131 

Property,  . 

169 

Procurators'  Hall,     . 

135 

Publications,     . 

144 

Public  Baths,     . 

168 

Pablic  Dispensaries, 

139 

Public  Halls,     . 

133 

Public  Parks,    . 

128 

Q. 

Quays,      .... 

125 

Queen  Insurance  Co.  Office, 

138 

Queen  Street,     . 

95 

Queen's  Dock,    . 

125 

Queen's  Park,    . 

129 

Queen's  Rooms, 

134 

E. 

Eailwat  Girder  Bridge, 

127 

Eailway  Stations, 

139 

Eamshorn  Church,     . 

159 

Rebellion  of  1745,      . 

115 

Eeformatories,  . 

154 

Reformed  Presbyterian  Church 

161 

Refuge,  Houses  of,     . 

154 

Registration, 

156 

Religious  Societies,    . 

141 

Rental  of  Glasgow,    . 

169 

Eepresentatiou  in  I'arliament, 

169 

Revenue,   .... 

121 

Eifle  Association, 

144 

Riots  of  1848,     ...     11 

7,  118 

Robertson  Bequest,   . 

142 

Roman  Catholic  Churches, 

162 

Eotten  Row, 

94 

Royal  Bank, 

138 

Royal  Clyde  Yacht  Club,  . 

143 

Royal  Exchange, 

132 

Royal  Glasgow  Volunteers, 

143 

Royal  Infirmary, 

139 

Eoyal  Lunatic  Asylum,     . 

141 

Eoyal  Northern  Yacht  Club, 

.     143 

Eoyal  Princess's  Theatre, . 

137 

Eoyal    School    of    Art-Needle 

work,     .... 

.     152 

Eoyal  Visits,     . 

.     169 

Royalty  Theatre, 

. 

.     137 

Ruskin  Society, 

. 

.     143 

Rutherglen  Bridge, 

.     127 

S. 
Sahoes'  Home, 

.     162 

St  Andrew's  Church, 

. 

.     160 

GLASGOW 


PAGE 

St  Andrew's  Free  Church,  .  160 
St  Andrew's  Halls,  .  .  .134 
St    Andrew's  Roman    Catholic 

Church,  .        .        .        .162 

St  Andrew's  Scottish  Episcopal 

Church,  .        .        .        .162 

St  Andrew  Square,  ...  95 
St  Andrew's  Suspension  Bridge,  127 
St  David's  Church,  .  .  .159 
St  Enoch's  Church,  .  .  .160 
St  George's  Church,  .  .  .160 
St  George's  Free  Church,  .  .  160 
St  James's  Church,  .  .  .  160 
St  John's  Church,  .  .  .  160 
St  John's  Free  Church,  .  .  160 
St  Francis,  Church  of,  .  .  162 
St    Mary's   Scottish    Episcopal 

Church,  ....     162 

St  Mary's  or  Tron  Church,  .  159 
St  Matthew's  Free  Church,  .  160 
St  Mungo,  ....       97 

St    Mungo's    Roman    Catholic 

Church,  .        .        .        .162 

St  Mungo  Art  Society,  .  .  143 
St  Nicholas'  Hospital,  .  .  105 
St  Ninian's  Lepers'  Hospital,  101, 109 
St  Paul's  Church,  .  .  .159 
St  Peter's  Free  Church,  .  .  160 
St  Thenaw's  Gate,  .  .  .106 
St  Vincent  Street,  ...  96 
St  Vincent  Street  U.  P.  Church,  161 
Saltmarket,  ....  95 
Salvation  Army,  .  .  .  161 
Sauchiehall  Street,  ...  96 
Savings'  Banks,  .        .        .     138 

School  of  Art- Needlework,  .  152 
Schools,  Miscellaneous,  .  .  153 
Science  and  Arts,  College  of,  .  150 
Scientific  Societies,  .  .  .  142 
Scottish    Amicable     Assurance 

Company's  Office,  . 
Scottish  Widows'  Fund  and  In- 
surance Society, 

Sewage, 

Shelter,  House  of,     . 
Shipbuilding,    .        .      i.  271,  ii. 
Shipping,  .         ,        .         .        . 
Sighthill  Cemetery,    . 

Site,  

Skin  Diseases,  Dispensary  for,  . 
Slaughter  Houses, 
Social  Science  Congress,    . 
Song  School,      .... 
South  Prison,    .... 
Standard  Assurance  Co.,  . 
Stations,  Railway,     . 

Statues, 

Stirling's   and  Glasgow  Public 

Library,    .... 


138 

138 
168 
141 
205 
119 
128 
92 
141 
164 
170 
106 
131 
138 
139 
129 

135 


PAQB 

Stock  Exchange, 

132 

Stock  Exchange,  New, 

132 

Streets, 

93 

Synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr, 

160 

T. 

Technical  College, 

151 

Telephonic  Exchange, 

132 

Theatres, 

137 

Theatre  Royal,  .... 

137 

Theological  College  (F.  C), 

151 

Tidal  Basins  (proposed),    . 

126 

Tontine  Buildings,     . 

130 

Trade  Incorporations, 

134 

Trades'  Hall,     .... 

134 

Training  Home  for  Nurses, 

142 

Tramways,          .... 

164 

Trongate, 

95 

Tron  or  St  Mary's  Church, 

159 

U. 

Union  Bank,    .... 

138 

Union  Street,    .... 

95 

United  Evangelistic  HaU, 

161 

United       Original       Secession 

Church,          .... 

161 

U.P.  Churches, 

161 

U.P.    Presbytery    of    Glasgow, 

North, 

161 

University,        .... 

145 

V. 

Valuation,      .... 

169 

Veterinary  College,   . 

150 

Victoria  Bridge, 

127 

Virginia  Street, 

95 

Volunteers,        .... 

143 

W. 

Water  Supply, 

165 

Wellington's  Monument,  . 

130 

Wells, 

166 

Wesleyan  Methodists, 

162 

Western  Club 

138 

Western  Infirmary,    . 

140 

Western  Medical  School,  . 

150 

West  George  Street, 
West  Regent  Street, 
West  of  Scotland  Rifle  Asi 

tion, 
William  HI.,  Statue  of. 
Woodlands  U.P.  Church, 
Working  Men's  Clubs, 


Yacht  Clubs,  . 


96 

144 
130 
161 
136 


143 


172 


GLASGOW  AND  SOUTH-WESTERN  RAILWAY 


GLASGOW  AND  SOUTH-WESTERN  RAILWAY 


Glasgow  and  South-Westem  Railway,  a  railway  in 
Lanarkshire,  Renfrewshire,  Ayrshire,  and  Dumfries- 
shire, with  connections  into  Wigto\vnshire,  etc.  The 
system  is  an  amalgamation  of  various  lines  constructed 
at  various  times,  and  as  it  now  embraces  the  first  rail- 
way made  in  Scotland  under  an  Act  of  Parliament,  the 
line  may  claim  to  be  the  oldest  railway  enterprise  in 
the  country.  This  line,  connecting  the  Duke  of  Port- 
land's coal-fields  near  Kilmarnock  with  the  port  of 
Troon,  was  authorised  by  an  Act  passed  in  1808,  with  a 
share  capital  of  £55,000  and  loans  £10,500,  and  was 
long  worked  by  horse  haulage,  while  a  passenger  car 
conveyed  the  inhabitants  of  the  inland  weaving  town 
to  the  '  saut  watter, '  this  being  at  one  time  a  favourite 
ti'ip  from  Kilmarnock.  Alton,  in  his  survey  of  the 
agriculture  of  Ayrshire,  speaks  of  this  railway  as  '  of 
magnitude  unequalled  in  Scotland,'  it  being  in  course  of 
formation  when  he  wi'ote.  The  total  length  of  this 
early  railway  was  about  9J  mQes,  or,  with  branches 
subsequently  made,  12  miles  1  furlong.  The  construc- 
tion of  this  line  was  of  cast-iron  rails  resting  on  stone 
blocks,  a  method  of  laying  the  line  which  subsisted 
down  to  and  after  the  making  of  the  Edinburgh  and 
Glasgow  railway,  but  was  discarded  in  favour  of  wooden 
sleepers  laid  under  both  rails,  and  steadied  by  'bal- 
last. ' 

As  early  as  1S35  the  scheme  of  connecting  Glasgow 
with  Carlisle  through  Nithsdale  was  advocated  in  the 
Ayr  Advertiser  and  the  Dumfries  Courier,  and  some  years 
previously  there  had  been  proposals  made  for  a  railway 
between  Glasgow  and  Paisley.  The  first  proposal  in 
the  latter  direction  was  to  convert  the  Glasgow,  Paisley, 
and  Johnston  Canal  into  a  railway,  and  what  was  pro- 
posed in  1830  was  not  sanctioned  for  fifty  years  there- 
after, and  is  only  now  (1883)  in  process  of  being  carried 
into  effect.  In  April  1836  a  meeting  was  held  in  Glas- 
gow to  promote  the  construction  of  the  Glasgow,  Paisley. 
Kilmarnock,  and  Ayr  railway,  a  line  which,  it  may  be 
remarked,  only  came  within  5  mQes  of  Kilmarnock, 
although  bearing  that  name  in  its  title,  the  prospectus 
stating  that  '  the  high  ridge  which  lies  to  the  S  of  Glas- 
gow '  rendered  a  more  direct  line  impossible.  Thirty 
years  later,  however,  when  the  art  of  making  and 
working  railways  had  advanced,  a  direct  line  to  Kil- 
marnock was  constructed,  being  the  joint  property  of 
the  Glasgow  and  South-Western  and  the  Caledonian 
Companies. 

The  first  act  for  the  construction  of  part  of  the  system, 
eventually  combined  under  the  general  title  of  Glasgow 
and  South-Western,  received  the  royal  assent  on  15  July 
1837,  the  capital  being  fixed  at  £625,000,  with  borrow- 
ing powers  £208,300.  The  first  section  of  the  l^ue,  that 
between  Ayr  and  Irvine,  was  opened  on  5  Aug.  1837, 
and  on  11  Aug.  1840  the  line  was  opened  through  be- 
tween Glasgow  and  Ayr,  amidst  great  rejoicing.  In 
1844 — the  intervening  period  being  occupied  by  the 
directors  in  consolidating  the  line,  constructing  branches 
to  Irvine,  Ardrossan,  etc.,  acquiring  and  strengthening 
the  Kilmarnock  and  Troon  line,  and  other  works — a 
movement  was  made  towards  the  construction  of  the 
Dumfries  and  Carlisle  connection.  Although  promoted 
as  a  separate  undertaking,  the  Glasgow,  Dumfries,  and 
Carlisle  was  supported  by  the  Ayrshire  company  and  its 
board,  and  in  1850  the  Unes  were  amalgamated.  The 
Act  was  obtained,  after  much  opposition,  in  1846  ;  and 
on  16  July  1847  the  foundation-stone  of  the  bridge  over 
the  Nith  at  Martinton  was  made  the  occasion  of  a  great 
public  demonstration  at  Dumfries.  The  line  was  opened 
on  28  Oct.  1860,  when  the  two  systems  became  one, 
the  first  meeting  as  the  '  Glasgow  and  South-Western 
railway'  being  held  in  March  1851. 

By  a  series  of  constructions  and  amalgamations,  the 
system  at  the  end  of  July  1882  consisted  of  300J  miles 
wholly  the  property  of  the  company,  31J  partly  owned 
(the  Kilmarnock  joint  line,  etc.),  17  leased  or  rented, 
and  25  worked  by  the  company.  Of  the  lines  main- 
tained by  the  company  there  were  233 J  miles  of  double 
and  96J  of  single  line.  At  the  same  date  the  authorised 
capital  of  the  company  was  £9,727,770  in  stock  and 


shares,  and  £2,768,800  in  loans,  and  a  total  of 
£10,340,998,  14s.  8d.  was  given  as  the  capital  sum 
expended  in  the  construction  and  equipment  of  tho 
railway,  including  subscriptions  to  allied  or  subsidiary 
railways.  As  with  other  companies  it  is  difficult  now 
to  say  what  amount  in  actual  cash  was  expended  in 
making  the  line,  as  a  certain  amount  of  nominal  stock 
is  comprised  in  the  above  totals,  including  a  sum  of 
£987,770  added  on  the  consolidation  on  an  equal 
dividend  basis  of  certain  guaranteed  stocks,  and  an 
amount  of  £442,250  created  as  'deferred'  stock,  to  carry 
certain  contingent  dividends  that  were  payable  to  stock 
of  equal  amount,  neither  of  those  sums  representing 
actual  outlay  on  the  line.  Of  the  share  capital, 
£4,927,920  stood  as  consolidated  ordinary  stock, 
£748,360  as  '  guaranteed '  stock  (increased  to  £935,450 
on  equalisation  as  above  described),  and  £1,949,299  as 
'  preference '  stock  at  4,  4J,  and  5  per  cent. 

In  the  half-year  last  reported  upon  the  company 
carried  354,701  first  class,  238,344  second  class,  and 
3,463,284  third  class  passengers,  besides  issuing  3191 
season  tickets,  making  a  total  of  4,059,520  passengers, 
yielding  a  revenue  of  £191,906.  For  parcels,  horses, 
and  mails,  the  company  received  £221,963,  and  the 
goods  traffic  (merchandise  495,843  tons,  minerals 
2,022,103  tons)  yielded  a  revenue  of  £313,861.  With 
some  miscellaneous  items  of  receipt  the  revenue  for  the 
half-year  was  £546,915.  To  carry  this  trafBc  the  com- 
pany owned  280  locomotives,  871  passenger  vehicles 
(including  horse-boxes,  carriage  trucks,  post  office  vans, 
etc.),  and  11,592  waggons,  7051  of  the  latter  being 
mineral  waggons,  and  184  brake-vans  for  goods  trains. 
In  the  half-year  those  vehicles  traversed  1,042,340  miles 
in  the  passenger,  and  1,125,556  in  the  goods  department. 
The  gross  revenue  per  train  mile  was  59  ■32d. ,  and  of 
this  the  passenger  traffic  yielded  an  average  of  51'lld., 
and  the  goods  trafiic  an  average  of  66 '92  per  train  mile. 
The  aflaii's  of  the  company  are  controlled  by  a  board 
consisting  of  chairman,  deputy-chairman,  and  8  directors, 
who  received  an  honorarium  of  £1000  in  the  half-year. 

As  constructed  up  to  the  end  of  18S2,  the  Glasgow 
and  South-Western  railway  served  a  district  admii-ably 
described  by  its  title,  and  having  for  its  termini  Glas- 
gow, Greenock,  Dumfries,  Girvan,  Castle-Douglas,  and 
Kirkcudbright,  with  a  vast  network  of  intercommunica- 
tion between  the  various  parts  of  the  district  comprised 
within  those  limits.  The  parent  line,  that  from  Glas- 
gow to  Ayr,  passes  from  Glasgow  through  a  level 
country  sprinkled  with  villas,  villages,  towns,  and 
manufactories.  Paisley,  the  first  station  of  importance, 
is  approached  by  a  bridge  over  the  White  Cart,  with 
the  castellated  buildings  of  the  jail  prominent  in  the 
foreground,  and  a  glimpse  is  got  of  the  venerable 
remains  of  the  abbey,  '  the  cradle  of  the  Empire, '  for 
to  the  birth  of  the  son  of  Marjory  Bruce,  the  Queen 
Blearie  of  the  ringing  aisle,  the  present  reigning  house 
traces  its  right  to  the  British  throne.  At  Paisley  the 
branch  to  Renfrew  diverges.  Before  reaching  Johnstone, 
the  line  to  Bridge  of  Weir  and  Greenock  branches  off, 
the  section  to  Bridge  of  Weir,  3j  miles,  having  been 
sanctioned  in  1862,  and  the  Greenock  and  Ayrshire,  15 
miles,  in  1865.  The  former  was  absorbed  in  1865,  and 
the  latter  in  1872.  By  the  construction  of  this  line, 
the  Glasgow  and  South-Western  obtained  an  inde- 
pendent access  to  Greenock,  running  their  passenger 
trains  to  Princes  Pier,  at  the  W  end  of  the  port,  where 
steamers  call  regularly.  The  Anchor  Line  passengers 
for  America  are  conveyed  by  special  ti-ain  from  Glasgow 
to  Princes  Pier,  starting  some  hours  after  the  vessel  has 
left  the  harbour  of  Glasgow.  From  Johnstone  the  main 
line  proceeds  through  a  fine  verdant  district,  passing 
Loch  Semple,  with  a  station  for  Locliwinnoch,  and 
immediately  entering  Ayrshire,  where  it  skirts  Kilbirnie 
Loch,  and  passes  through  a  picturesque  country,  with 
its  beauties  marred,  as  so  many  scenes  in  the  AV  of 
Scotland  are  marred,  by  the  mineral  operations  which 
bring  the  railway  and  the  county  their  wealth.  At 
Dairy  there  is  a  separation  of  the  lines,  that  to  the  right 
proceeding  to  Kih\inning,  from  which  a  branch  runs  to 

173 


GLASGOW  AND  SOUTH-WESTERN  RAILWAY 

Saltcoats  (with  a  branch  to  the  harbour)  and  Ardrossan. 
Extensions  of  the  latter  branch  were  opened  to  West 
Kilbride  in  1878  and  to  Fairlie  in  1882,  and  in  the  latter 
year  powers  were  obtained  to  continue  the  railway  to 
Largs,  further  N  on  the  Ayrshire  coast.  A  direct  line 
from  Dairy  to  Fairlie  was  at  one  time  projected,  but 
owing  to  the  magnitude  of  the  works  involved,  the 
powers  to  make  this  line  were  abandoned,  and  the  cir- 
cumbendibus route  to  the  favourite  watering  place  of 
Largs  has  been,  after  some  delays,  carried  into  effect. 
Leaving  out  of  view  some  mineral  lines  in  this  part  of 
the  county,  we  nest  on  the  main  line  reach  the  town 
and  harbour  of  Irvine,  from  beyond  which  a  cross  line 
by  Dreghorn  connects,  for  the  first  time,  the  two  prin- 
cipal parts  of  the  system,  forming  a  short  route  be- 
tween Kilmarnock  and  Ardrossan.  This  line  skirts  the 
coast,  affording  a  fine  view  of  the  lower  waters  of  the 
Clyde  estuary,  with  Holy  Island  and  the  bold  hiUs  of 
Arran  to  fill  up  the  background,  and  Ailsa  Craig  visible 
in  the  far  distance.  On  approaching  Troon,  the  old 
line  to  Kilmarnock,  already  spoken  of,  is  met,  and  a 
brancli  strikes  off,  or  rather,  the  original  Troon  line, 
strengthened  to  suit  later  requirements,  strikes  off  to 
the  town  and  harbour.  Approaching  Ayr,  the  village 
of  Prestwick  is  passed,  the  links  round  which  have  been 
rendered  accessible  by  the  railway,  and  have  been 
adopted  as  a  favourite  golfing  groimd. 

S  of  Ayr  we  encounter  a  very  interesting  chapter  of 
railway  history.  In  the  great  railway  promotion  of 
nearly  forty  years  ago,  when  the  through  routes  of  the 
county  were  elaborately  reported  upon  by  the  Board  of 
Trade,  and  the  merits  of  various  routes  were  keenly 
canvassed,  an  Act  was  passed  in  1846  for  the  formation 
of  the  Glasgow  and  Belfast  Union  railway.  Although 
promoted  with  this  comprehensive  title,  and  originally 
intended  as  the  nucleus  of  a  short  route  to  Ireland  via 
Stranraer,  the  line  was  only  22J  miles  in  length,  reach- 
ing to  Girvan  with  a  branch  to  Maybole.  The  capital 
was  £440,000  in  shares  and  loans.  In  1847,  an  Act  for 
the  construction  of  the  'Ayrshire  and  Galloway'  railway 
was  obtained,  this  line  reaching  to  Dalmellington,  and 
being  intended  to  inaugurate  a  southern  route  througli 
the  Glenkens  into  Galloway.  Although  last  promoted 
the  Dalmellington  line  was  first  constructed.  An  Act 
passed  in  1853  authorised  the  formation  of  this  line,  13 
miles  in  length,  4  miles  of  this  being  available  for  the 
proposed  line  to  Girvan  and  Maybole  should  the  latter 
be  proceeded  \vith.  In  1854  the  Ayr  and  iilaybole 
Junction  was  promoted,  5J  miles  in  length,  and  the  two 
lines  were  opened  in  1856.  In  1858  the  Dalmellington 
railway  was  amalgamated  with  the  pai'ent  line.  The 
Ayr  and  Maybole  Company  to  this  day  preserves  its 
autonomy,  being  worked  by  the  Glasgow  and  Soutli- 
Western  railway  under  a  perpetual  lease  agreed  to  in 
1871,  at  an  annual  rent  of  7  per  cent,  on  the  capital, 
witli  a  lien  on  the  revenue  (see  Aye  and  Maybole 
Railway).  The  extension  to  Girvan,  12J  miles,  was 
promoted  by  a  company  in  1856  :  capital  £90,600, 
eventually  (omng  to  the  works  proving  more  expensive 
than  had  been  estimated)  increased  to  £145,600.  The 
line  was  opened  in  1860,  and  amalgamated  with  the  parent 
line  in  1865,  the  Iilaybole  section,  as  already  mentioned, 
standing  as  a  separate  property  between  the  two  parts 
of  the  line  then  amalgamated.  In  1865  powers  were 
obtained  to  construct  several  important  junctions  in 
Ayrshire,  embracing  a  cross  line  from  Mauchline  to  Ayr 
— to  bring  Ayr  into  nearer  connection  with  the  S— a 
cross  line  from  the  Dalmellington  branch  to  Cumnock, 
and  a  transverse  railway  connecting  these  two  lines 
through  the  parishes  of  Ochiltree  and  Coylton.  Those 
connections  were  opened  in  1872.  For  the  more 
southerly  connection  of  the  company  beyond  Girvan  see 

GlKVAN     AND      POBTPATRICK      EaILWAY     and      PORT- 

PATKicK  Railway. 

Returning  to  Dairy,  the  point  of  divergence  noticed 
in  an  earlier  paragraph,  we  proceed  to  Kilmarnock,  an  im- 
portant centre.  After  many  negotiations  and  struggles, 
the  Glasgow,  Barrhead,  and  Kilmarnock  joint  line  was 
sanctioned,  and  it  is  held  in  equal  shares  by  the  Cale- 
174 


GLASGOW  AND  SOUTH-WESTERN  RAILWAY 

donian  and  the  Glasgow  and  South-Western  Railway 
Companies.  This  was  a  compromise,  on  the  abandon- 
ment of  the  Kilmarnock  direct,  and  comprised  the  Barr- 
head and  Neilston  railway,  and  the  Crofthead  and  Kil- 
marnock, -with  junctions  and  extensions,  making  a 
through  line,  which  was  opened  in  1873.  The  line  from 
Dairy  to  Kilmarnock  (still  an  important  passenger  route, 
although  the  expresses  take  the  direct  line)  was  opened 
in  1843.  It  was  followed  by  the  extensions  to  Mauch- 
line and  Auchinleck,  opened  in  Aug.  1848,  and  to  New 
Cumnock,  opened  in  May  1850.  Meantime,  as  part  of 
the  Glasgow,  Dumfries,  and  Carlisle  railway,  the  line 
had  been  opened  from  Dumfries  to  Gretna,  24J  miles,  in 
Aug.  1848,  and  from  Dumfries  to  Closeburn,  11 J  miles,  in 
Oct.  1849.  The  completing  line  between  Closeburn  and 
New  Cumnock,  25^  miles,  was  opened  as  already  stated 
in  Oct.  1850,  and  at  the  end  of  that  month  the  original 
Glasgow,  Paisley,  KUmarnock,  and  Ayr,  and  Glasgow, 
Dumfries,  and  Carlisle  companies  were,  imder  agree- 
ments previously  made,  amalgamated  under  the  title  at 
the  head  of  this  article.  A  branch  from  Auchinleck  to 
Muirkirk,  10;^  miles,  was  opened  in  Aug.  1848,  and  a 
line  from  the  neighbom-hood  of  Kilmarnock  to  Galston 
and  NewmUns  was  opened  in  May  1850.  There  are 
various  mineral  lines  in  this  district  that  need  not  be 
particularised.  By  the  Caledonian  extension  from 
Douglas  to  Muirkirk,  authorised  in  1865,  a  short  route 
from  Edinburgh  to  Ayr,  viA  Carstah-s  and  Lanark,  was 
established,  using  the  lines  of  the  Glasgow  and  South- 
western from  JMuirkirk  by  Cumnock.  From  Dumfries 
the  Glasgow  and  South-Western  company  runs  to  Castle- 
Douglas  and  Kirkcudbright.  To  the  former  town  a 
railway,  19J  mUes  ia  length,  was  sanctioned  by  an  Act 
passed  in  1856,  and  the  Kirkcudbright  railway,  lOJ 
mUes  in  length,  was  sanctioned  in  1861.  Both  were 
amalgamated  with  the  Glasgow  and  South-Westeru  in 
1865. 

AVhile  the  engineering  works  on  the  system  present 
no  feature  of  world-wide  fame,  there  is  throughout  an 
average  amount  of  difficult  and  costly  works  in  tunnels, 
bridges,  etc.  There  is  a  long  tunnel  at  Drumlanrig, 
rendered  necessary  by  the  line  being  carried  along  the 
side  of  the  hUl  so  as  to  preserve  the  amenity  of  Drum- 
lanrig Castle.  Between  Dumfries  and  Annan  the  un- 
stable character  of  the  Lochar  Moss  gave  considerable 
trouble.  But  as  a  rule  the  line  was  comparatively  easy 
to  construct,  its  gradients  being  generally  moderate, 
while  its  com'se,  laid  out  in  the  earlier  days  of  railway 
construction,  formed  detours  rather  than  short  cuts. 
The  reason  given  for  omitting  Kilmarnock  in  the  route 
of  the  railway  has  already  been  quoted,  and  in  the 
prospectus  it  was  stated  that  the  summit-level  of  the 
line  between  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  at  Kilbirnie  Loch,  is 
only  95  feet  above  sea-level. 

The  principal  station  of  the  railway,  at  St  Enoch's 
Square  in  Glasgow,  was  opened  by  the  Prince  of  Wales 
in  Oct.  1876,  but  the  works  of  the  station,  and  the 
hotel  fronting  it,  were  not  completed  till  1879,  when 
the  hotel  was  opened.  Previous  to  the  erection  of  the 
new  station,  the  company  had  its  headquarters  and 
principal  terminus  in  Bridge  Street,  at  the  S  end  of 
Glasgow  Bridge.  This  station,  in  which  the  Caledonian 
holds  running  powers  and  partial  ownership,  has  been 
completely  recast,  and  at  present  (1883)  is  of  little  im- 
portance ;  its  principal  terminal  ti'affic  being  the  trains 
to  Wemyss  Bay  (See  Wemyss  Bay  Railway)  and  to 
Johnstone,  with  the  numerous  through  trains  passing 
to  the  central  station  of  the  Caledonian.  The  Bridge 
Street  station,  although  little  used,  is  held  by  the 
Glasgow  and  South-Western  in  anticipation  of  any 
change  in  traffic  that  may  render  it  busier,  and  the 
company  has  successfully  resisted  the  endeavours 
of  the  Caledonian  to  obtain  a  larger  share  in  the  pro- 
perty. 

The  hotel  and  station  at  St  Enoch's  Square  take  rank 
with  the  largest  works  of  the  kind  in  the  kingdom. 
The  hotel  front  to  the  square  presents  a  splendid  facade 
in  Early  English  Gothic,  240  feet  long,  with  a  total 
height  from  the  street  level  of  130  feet.      The  plat- 


GLASHMOBE 


GLASS 


fonn  level  is  approached  by  a  sloping  carriage-way,  and  is 
20  feet  above  street  level,  the  lower  front  of  the  terrace 
thus  formed  being  used  as  shops.  At  the  N\V  corner, 
under  a  lofty  tower,  is  the  entrance  to  the  hotel,  and  in 
the  centre,  under  an  iron  and  glass  roof,  are  the  entrances 
to  the  booking-hall,  a  fine  apartment  90  by  60  feet.  The 
usual  luggage-rooms,  waiting-rooms,  etc. ,  are  on  this  floor, 
and  bounding  the  N  side  of  the  station  is  a  wing  600 
feet  long,  occupied  as  the  headquarters  of  the  company. 
In  the  angle  subtended  b}"-  the  hotel  and  this  wing  is 
found  the  station,  covered  in  a  one-arched  span  of  iron  and 
glass,  presenting  a  vast  airy  aspect,  and  fully  accommo- 
dating the  large  traffic  brought  into  the  station.  The 
main  ribs  of  this  splendid  roof,  built  up  in  eleven  sec- 
tions, weigh  54  tons  each.  The  hotel,  the  business  of 
which  is  retained  in  the  hands  of  the  company,  is  only 
exceeded  in  size  by  two  hotels  in  the  kingdom.  In  the 
basement  is  a  spacious  kitchen.  So  by  32  feet  in  size,  and 
with  a  roof  20  feet  high,  and  the  remaining  appointments 
of  the  hotel  are  in  keeping  with  this  enlarged  view  of 
the  needs  of  a  fii'st-class  modern  hotel.  Electric-bells, 
speaking-tubes,  and  a  hoist  to  carry  visitors  to  the  higher 
floors,  are  amongst  the  facilities  oifered  by  this  finely 
equipped  hotel. 

The  goods  station  of  the  company  in  College  Street, 
adjoining  the  College  (passenger)  station  of  the  North 
British  railway,  takes  its  name  from  having  been  built 
on  the  site  of  Glasgow  University,  of  which  building 
part  of  the  front  to  High  Street  still  remains,  being 
used  as  railway  offices.  This  district,  once  crowded 
with  mean  streets  and  narrow  closes  running  down  to 
Molendinar  Bui'n,  was  levelled  up  for  railway  purposes 
at  great  expense.  The  College  and  St  Enoch  stations 
and  the  lines  connecting  them  were  constructed  bj',  and 
are  the  property  of,  the  City  of  Glasgow  Union  railway, 
a  company  incorporated  in  1S64,  and  the  shares  of  which 
are  held  in  equal  proportions  by  the  Glasgow  and  South- 
"Western  and  the  North  British  railway  companies.  The 
■works  of  this  q\iasi  company,  extending  to  little  more 
than  6  miles,  have  entailed  a  capital  expenditure  of 
two  and  a  half  millions  of  money.  In  the  half-year  last 
reported  upon,  the  Glasgow  and  South-Western  Com- 
pany paid  £28,743  for  the  rent  of  the  two  stations,  and 
received  £6500  as  dividend  upon  its  shares  in  the  City 
of  Glasgow  Union.  At  Kilmarnock,  Ajt,  and  Dumfries 
the  company  has  excellent  station  buildings,  and  com- 
modious goods  yards,  engine  sheds,  etc.  The  loco- 
motive works  at  Kilmarnock  are  extensive,  employing 
1500  persons,  and  performing  all  work  necessary  in 
building  and  repairing  engines,  carriages,  waggons,  etc. 
At  Irvine  the  company  maintains  an  establishment 
connected  with  the  maintenance  of  permanent  way. 
Here  signal  posts  and  all  the  apparatus  for  the  conduct 
and  protection  of  the  traffic  are  cared  for,  as  well  as  the 
rails,  sleepers,  fish-plates,  bolts,  etc.,  required  for  the 
line  itself. 

It  remains  to  notice  that  one  of  the  features  of  the 
Glasgow  and  South-Western  railway  is,  that  it  holds 
complete  possession,  so  to  speak,  of  the  'land  of  Burns.' 
To  Ajt,  his  birthplace,  to  Dumfries,  where  he  died,  to 
Kilmarnock,  Mauchltne,  Tarbolton  (near  which  is  Loch- 
lee),  Dalrymple  (where  the  poet  attended  school),  to 
Ellisland,  to  Lugai',  to  nearly  every  place  that  can  be 
named  in  association  with  Burns,  the  railway  forms  the 
access,  and  in  consequence  it  presents  many  attractions 
to  the  tourist  and  to  the  pilgrim  to  Burns'  shrines. 
The  line  presents  besides  many  other  points  of  interest, 
afiording  access  to  such  places  of  historic  interest  as 
Caerlaverock  Castle,  Sweet  Heart  and  Lincluden  Abbeys, 
St  Mary's  Isle  at  Kirkcudbright — the  '  Selcraig  Ha' '  of 
Paul  Jones'  well-known  exploit — Drumlanrig  Castle  and 
the  valley  of  the  Nith,  the  many  fine  castles  on  the 
Ayrshire  coast,  many  places  associated  with  Wallace  and 
Bruce,  the  island  of  Arran  by  steamer  from  Ardrossan, 
etc. ,  etc.  See  Glasgow  and  South-  Western  Railway,  its 
History,  Progress,  and  Present  Position,  by  William 
M'Uwi-aith  (Glasg.  1880),  and  Guide  to  Glasgow  and 
SoutJi-  Western  Eaihcay. 

Glashmore.    See  Dkumoak. 


Glasletter  ir  Lungard,  a  deep  lake  in  Kintail  parish, 
Eoss-sbire.  Lying  761  feet  above  sea-level,  it  has  an 
utmost  length  and  breadth  of  IJ  mile  and  2J  furlongs, 
contains  both  trout  and  pike,  and  sends  oft'  a  stream  2 
miles  east-by-northward  to  the  head  of  Loch  MuUar- 
doch.— Orel.  Sur.,  sb.  72,  1880. 

Glas  Maol,  a  summit  of  the  Grampians,  at  the  meeting- 
point  of  Glenisla,  Kirkmichael,  and  Crathie  parishes, 
in  respectively  Forfarshire,  Perthshire,  and  Aberdeen- 
shire. It  has  an  altitude  of  3502  feet  above  sea-level, 
and  is  crowned  with  a  cairn  at  the  meeting-point  of  the 
counties.  Its  eastern  shoulder  is  traversed  by  a  foot- 
path leading  up  Glen  Isla  and  down  Glen  Clunie  to 
Castleton  of  Braemar. — Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  65,  1870. 

Glasnock  or  Glaisnock,  an  estate,  with  a  handsome 
modern  mansion,  in  Old  Cumnock  parish,  Ayrshire,  on 
the  left  bank  of  Glasnock  Burn,  If  mile  SSE  of  Cum- 
nock to-mi.  Its  owner,  Robert  Mitchell  Campbell,  Esq. 
of  Auchmannoch  (b.  1841  ;  sue.  1869),  holds  3928 
acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £2169  per  annum.  Glas- 
nock Burn,  issuing  from  a  lake  in  New  Cumnock  parish, 
2|  miles  WNW  of  New  Cumnock  village,  runs  3  mDes 
north-north-westward  to  Cumnock  town,  after  intersect- 
ing which  it  falls  into  the  Lugar. — Ord.  Sur.,  sb.  14, 
1863. 

Glass,  a  parish  of  Aberdeenshire  mainly,  but  partly 
of  BantTshire,  whose  church  stands  8J  miles  W  of 
Huntly,  under  which  there  is  a  post  office  of  Glass.  It 
is  bounded  N  by  Cairnie,  E  by  Cairnie  and  Huntly,  SE 
by  Huntly  and  Gartly,  SW  by  Cabracb,  and  W  by 
Mortlach  and  Botriphnic.  Its  utmost  length,  from  NE 
to  SW,  is  6j  miles;  its  breadth,  from  NW  to  SE,  varies 
between  If  and  4J  mUes  ;  and  its  area  is  12,655|  acres, 
of  which  lllf  are  water,  and  4732  belong  to  the  Banff- 
shire or  south-western  portion.  The  rapid  Deveron 
has  here  a  north-north-easterly  and  east-north-easterly 
course,  along  a  deep  narrow  vale,  of  7f  miles,  at  two 
points  (3  furl,  and  J  mile)  tracing  the  Cabracb  and 
Mortlach  boundaries,  but  elsewhere  traversing  the  in- 
terior. Along  it  the  surface  declines  to  530  feet  above 
sea-level,  thence  rising  westward  to  981  feet  at  Newton 
Hill,  1000  at  Both  Hill,  1124  near  Upper  Hill-top,  1056 
at  Crofts  of  Corsemaul,  and  1339  at  *Tipsof  Corsemaul; 
south-westward  to  1281  at  Evron  Hill,  1586  at  Brown 
Hill,  and  1540  at  *Craig  Watch,  where  asterisks  mark 
those  simimits  that  culminate  on  the  confines  of  the 
parish.  Syenite  occupies  a  good  deal  of  the  valley  and 
lower  hill-sides,  but  the  rocks  are  mainly  Silurian — 
greywacke,  clay  slate,  and  quartz,  with  veins  of  crystal- 
line limestone  ;  the  prevailing  soil  is  a  fertile  yellow 
loam  incumbent  on  gravel  throughout  the  lower  grounds, 
but  poorer  and  lighter  over  all  the  uplands.  Less  than 
a  third  of  the  entire  area  is  in  tillage  ;  plantations  of 
Scotch  firs  and  larch  cover  about  150  acres  ;  and  the  rest 
is  pastoral  or  heathy  waste.  Two  pre-Keformation 
chapels  stood  within  the  bounds  of  this  parish,  which, 
small  originally,  has  twice  been  enlarged  by  annexations 
— from  Slortlach  in  the  13th  or  14th  century,  and 
towards  the  close  of  the  17th  from  Drumdelzie  or  Pot- 
terkirk,  now  incorporated  with  Cairnie.  The  Earl  of 
Fife  is  the  chief  proprietor,  and  his  shooting-lodge  of 
Glenmarkie  is  the  only  mansion.  Glass  is  in  the  pres- 
bytery of  Strathbogie  and  synod  of  iloray ;  the  living 
is  worth  £303.  The  parish  church,  built  in  1782,  con- 
tains 550  sittings.  There  is  also  a  Free  church  ;  and 
Glass  public.  Glass  female  public,  and  Beldorney  public 
schools,  with  respective  accommodation  for  109,  57,  and 
70  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  55,  29, 
and  59,  and  gi'ants  of  £47,  19s.  6d.,  £25,  10s.  6d.,  and 
£56,  13s.  Valuation  (1860)  £2108,  (1881)  £2615, 
12s.  2d.  Pop.  (1801)  703,  (1831)  932,  (1861)  1049, 
(1871)  1061,  (1881)  1020,  of  whom  654  were  in  Aber- 
deenshire.—Orrf.  Sur.,  shs.  85,  86,  1876. 

Glass,  a  picturesque  loch  on  the  mutual  border  of 
Alness  and  Kiltearn  parishes,  Ross-shire,  at  the  north- 
eastern base  of  Ben  Wjfvis.  Lj'ing  713  feet  above  sea- 
level,  it  curves  4  miles  south-eastward  to  'within  7  mDes 
of  Novar  or  Evanton  station,  has  a  maximum  width  of 
5  furlongs,  and  from  its  foot  sends  off  the  river  Glass  or 

175 


GLASS 


GLASSFORD 


Abltgkande,  running  8  miles  east-south-eastward  to 
Cromarty  Firth,  at  a  point  9  furlongs  ESE  of  Novar 
station.  Both  loch  and  river  afford  good  trout  fishing. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  93,  1881. 

Glass,  a  river  of  Iviltarlity  and  Kilmorack  parishes, 
N  Inverness-shire,  formed,  2|  miles  SW  of  Glenaffric 
Hotel,  by  the  confluence  of  the  river  Affrio  and  the 
Amhuinn  Deabhaidh.  Thence  it  winds  12  miles  north- 
eastward along  wooded  Steathglass,  till,  near  Erch- 
LEss  Castle,  it  unites  with  the  Farrar  to  form  the  river 
Beauly.  During  this  course  it  descends  from  250  to 
160  feet  above  sea-level,  and  is  a  fine  fishing  stream  for 
salmon  and  trout,  the  latter  running  up  to  4  lbs.  — Ord. 
Sur.,  shs.  73,  83,  1878-81. 

Glass.     See  Glass-Ellan". 

Glassalt  (Gael.  '  grej^  stream '),  a  mountain  torrent  of 
Crathie  and  Braemar  parish,  SW  Aberdeenshire,  ris- 
ing on  the  southern  side  of  Lochnagar  at  an  altitude  of 
3450  feet,  and  running  3  miles  east-south-eastward,  till 
it  falls  into  Loch  Muick  (1310  feet)  near  its  head,  and 
2J  mUes  SW  by  S  of  Alt-na-Giuthasacb.  'The  falls,' 
writes  the  Queen  under  date  16  Sept.  1852,  '  are  equal 
to  those  of  the  Bruar  at  Blair,  and  are  150  feet  in 
height ;  the  whole  height  to  the  foot  of  the  loch  being 
500  feet.  .  .  .  We  came  down  to  the  Shiel  of  the 
Glassalt,  lately  built,  where  there  is  a  charming  room 
for  us,  commanding  a  most  lovely  view.' — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  66,  1870. 

Glassary.     See  Kilmiohael-Glassary. 

Glassaugh,  a  mansion  in  Fordyce  parish,  Banffshire, 
2i  miles  WSW  of  Portsoy.  Much  enlarged  in  the  first 
half  of  the  present  century,  it  is  the  property  of  Robert 
W.  Duff,  Esq.,  M.P.,  of  Fetteeesso,  who  succeeded 
his  father,  Arthur  Duff  Abercromby,  Esq.,  in  1859, 
and  holds  2671  acres  in  Banffshire,  valued  at  £2347  per 
annum, — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  96,  1876. 

Glassel,  a  station  and  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  on 
the  W  border  of  Banchory-Ternan  parish,  Kincardine- 
shire. The  station  is  on  the  Deeside  railway,  adjacent 
to  the  boundary  with  Aberdeenshire,  4J  miles  WWW  of 
Banchory  village. 

Glass-Ellan  or  Green  Island,  a  low  grassy  islet  of 
Glenshiel  parish,  SW  Ross-sbire,  in  Loch  Alsh,  adjacent 
to  Lochalsh  parish.  It  measures  30  acres  in  area,  has 
flat  sandy  shores,  and  is  separated  from  the  mainland 
on  both  sides  by  only  a  narrow  strait. 

Glassert.     See  Glazeet. 

Glasserton,  a  coast  parish  of  SE  Wigtownshire,  whose 
church  stands  IJ  mile  inland,  and  2^-  miles  SW  of 
Whithorn.  It  is  bounded  N  by  Kirkiuner,  NE  by 
Sorbie,  E  by  Whithorn,  SW  by  Luce  Bay,  and  W  by 
Mochrum.  Its  utmost  length,  from  NW  to  SE,  is  6| 
miles  ;  its  breadth  varies  between  IJ  and  5^  miles  ;  and 
its  area  is  13,889  acres,  of  which  514J  are  foreshore 
and  90  water.  The  coast-line,  6J  miles  long,  is  a  chain 
of  green-topped  hills,  various  iu  height,  and  rocky, 
bold,  and  beetling  towards  the  sea  ;  it  rises  on  Carleton 
Fell  to  a  maximum  altitude  of  475  feet  above  sea-level. 
Many  of  its  hills  are  abrupt  and  precipitous,  overhang- 
ing the  shore  in  projecting  cliffs  ;  others  slope  gently 
down  to  the  water's  edge,  and  several  are  pierced  to  no 
great  depth  by  caverns.  Of  these  St  Ninian's  Cave, 
near  Physgill  House,  is  said  to  have  served  as  an  oratory 
to  that  early  apostle  of  the  Southern  Picts  ;  and  carved 
on  a  panel,  25  feet  SW  of  its  entrance,  the  figure  of  a 
cross,  9  inches  high,  was  discovered  by  a  party,  which 
comprised  the  late  Dr  John  Stuart  and  Dean  Stanley. 
(See  Whithorn.)  Monreith  Bay,  at  the  boundary  with 
Mochrum,  and  two  or  three  spots  elsewhere,  are  avail- 
able for  the  unloading  of  sloops  in  fine  weather ;  but 
nowhere  is  there  any  safe  harbourage.  The  interior 
exhibits  an  uneven,  broken,  and  knoUy  appearance,  a 
constant  succession  of  heights  and  hollows,  with  scarcely 
a  level  field  ;  and,  rising  at  many  points  to  200  or  300 
feet  above  sea-level,  culminates  on  the  Fell  of  Bar- 
hullion  at  an  altitude  of  450  feet.  Dow  Alton  Loch, 
now  drained,  lay  at  the  northern  extremity,  and  has 
been  separately  noticed.  The  rocks  are  various,  but 
chiefly  Silmian  ;  and  they  yield  hard  material  for  road- 
176 


metal.  The  soil,  too,  varies  much,  and  often,  on  one  and 
the  same  ridge,  ranges  from  light  dry  earth  to  loam  and 
moss ;  but  rich  soil  prevails,  much  interspersed  with 
till.  Between  200  and  300  acres  are  under  wood,  and 
more  than  a  fourth  of  the  entire  area  still  is  waste, 
though  great  improvements  have  been  carried  out,  especi- 
ally on  the  estate  (677  acres)  of  Craiglemine  and  Appleby, 
purchased  in  1847  by  George  Guthrie,  Esq.,  who,  ex- 
pending on  it  £4250,  had  raised  its  rental  by  1874  from 
£423  to  £1150.  He  '  found  it  a  wilderness,  and  left  it 
a  garden.'  Glasserton  House,  3  furlongs  SW  of  the 
church,  stands  in  the  midst  of  a  large,  well-wooded 
park,  and  is  a  red  stone  building,  successor  to  a  seat  of 
the  Earls  of  Galloway,  which  was  destroj'ed  by  fire  in 
1730.  It  and  the  older  mansion  of  Physgill,  1  mUe 
to  the  SE,  are  both  the  property  of  Robert  Hathorn 
Johnston-Stewart,  Esq.  (b.  1824 ;  sue.  1865),  who 
holds  5552  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £7619  per 
annum.  Another  mansion  is  Ravenstoxe  ;  and  the 
entire  parish  is  divided  among  five  proprietors.  It  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  Wigto^vn  and  synod  of  Galloway  ;  the 
living  is  worth  £246.  The  church  was  built  in  1732, 
and,  as  repaired  and  enlarged  in  1837,  contains  400 
sittings ;  whilst  two  public  schools,  Glasserton  and 
Ravelstone,  with  respective  accommodation  for  94  and 
76  children,  had  (ISSl)  an  average  attendance  of  51  and 
50,  and  grants  of  £49,  3s.  and  £55,  18s.  Valuation 
(1860)  £f0,333,  (1882)  £14,056,  13s.  4d.  Pop.  (1801) 
860,  (1831)  1194,  (1861)  1472,  (1871)  1196,  (1881) 
1203.— OrcZ.  Sur.,  shs.  2,  4,  1856-57. 

Glassford,  a  parish  in  the  Middle  Ward  of  Lanark- 
shire, containing  Glassford  station  on  a  branch  line  of 
the  Caledonian,  1 J  mile  N  by  E  of  Strathaven,  and  also 
containing  the  villages  of  Westquaeter  and  Chapbl- 
TON,  which  are  respectively  1  mile  ESE  and  2  miles  N 
by  W  of  that  station,  whilst  Chapelton  by  road  is  5J 
miles  SSW  of  Hamilton,  under  Avhich  it  has  a  post 
office.  With  an  irregular  outline,  rudely  resembling  an 
hourglass,  the  parish  is  bounded  N  by  Hamilton,  NE 
and  SE  by  Stonehouse,  S  by  Avondale,  SW  by  East 
Kilbride,  and  NW  by  East  Kilbride  and  Blantyre.  Its 
utmost  length,  from  WNW  to  ESE,  is  7  miles ;  its 
width  varies  between  2-J  furlongs  and  2J  miles ;  and 
its  area  is  6459f  acres,  of  which  17  are  water.  Avon 
Water  winds  2  miles  north-north-eastward  along  the 
south-eastern  border,  and  Caldee  Water  Z%  miles  north- 
north-westward  and  north-eastward  along  the  south- 
western and  north-western  border.  By  the  former 
stream  the  surface  declines  to  490,  by  the  Calder  to  680 
feet  above  sea-level ;  and  between  them  it  rises  to  804 
feet  near  Glassford  station,  857  at  Bents,  and  853  near 
Craighall.  The  rocks  are  mainly  trap  and  carboni- 
ferous ;  and  coal,  freestone,  and  limestone  have  all  been 
worked,  but  the  first  to  no  great  extent.  The  soil  is 
variously  light  loam,  clay,  and  moss  ;  and  during  this 
century  a  good  deal  of  barren  moorland  has  been 
reclaimed.  Just  to  the  N  of  Westquarter  is  the  site  of 
an  ancient  castle  ;  and  J  mile  to  the  E  are  remains  of 
the  old  church  of  1633,  with  a  tombstone  bearing  this 
epitaph  :  '  To  the  Memory  of  the  very  worthy  Pillar  of 
the  Church,  Mr  William  Gordon  of  Earlston,  in  Gallo- 
way, shot  by  a  party  of  dragoons  on  his  way  to  Both- 
well  Bridge,  22  June  1679,  aged  65.  Inscribed  by  his 
great-grandson.  Sir  John  Gordon,  Bart.,  11  June  1772.' 
John  Struthers  (1776-1853),  author  of  The  Poor  Man's 
Sabbath,  for  three  and  a  half  years  was  a  cowherd  in 
Glassford  parish.  Mansions,  noticed  separately,  are 
Avonholm,  Craigthornhill,  Crutherland,  Hallhill,  Muir- 
burn,  and  West  Quarter  House.  In  the  presbytery 
of  Hamilton  and  sjmod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  this 
parish,  since  1875,  has  been  ecclesiastically  divided  into 
Glassford  and  Chapelton.  The  stipend  and  communion 
allowance  for  Glassford  is  £306,  17s.  ;  its  present 
church,  built  in  1820,  contains  560  sittings.  Two 
public  schools,  Chapelton  and  Glassford,  with  respective 
accommodation  for  140  and  119  children,  had  (1881) 
an  average  attendance  of  104  and  89,  and  grants  of 
£96,  17s.  and  £74,  Is.  Valuation  (1860)  £9900,  (1882) 
£10,284.     Pop.  of  civU  parish  (1801)  953,  (1831)  1730, 


GLASSIE 


GLENAPP 


(IS6I5  1938,  (1871)  1430,  (1881)  1452;  of  ecclesiastical 
parish  (1881)  670.— On?.  Siir.,  sh.  23,  1865. 

Glassie,  a  Perthshire  lake  on  the  mutual  border  of 
Dull  and  Logierait  (detached)  parishes,  Perthshire,  2J 
miles  N  by  W  of  Aberfeldy.  Lying  1200  feet  above  sea- 
level,  it  has  an  utmost  length  and  breadth  of  3J  and 
IJ  furlongs,  and  contains  pike. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  55, 
1869. 

Glasslaw.    See  Glaslaw. 

Glassmount,  an  estate,  ■n"ith  a  modern  mansion,  in 
Einghorn  parish,  Fife,  2  miles  NW  of  Kinghorn  town, 
and  3  NNE  of  Burntisland.  Two  rough  standing  stones, 
supposed  to  commemorate  the  last  battle  fought  between 
the  Scots  and  the  Danes,  are  in  a  field  to  the  W  of  the 
mansion. 

Glasvein  or  A'Ghlas-bheinn,  a  mountain  (3006  feet) 
in  Kintail  parish,  SW  Ross-shire,  flanking  the  N  side 
of  the  Bealach  Pass,  5  miles  ENE  of  Invershiel. 

Glasvein  or  Glas  Bheinn,  a  mountain  (2541  feet)  on 
the  NE  border  of  Assynt  parish,  Sutherland,  flanking 
the  upper  part  of  the  northern  shore  of  Loch  Assynt, 
and  culminating  3  miles  N  of  Inchnadamff. 

Glasvein,  a  village  in  the  Isle  of  Skye,  Inverness- 
shire.     Its  post-town  is  Kilmuir,  imder  Portree. 

Glaudhall,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Cadder 
parish,  Lanarkshire,  1  mile  NE  of  Garnkirk  station. 

Glazert,  a  rivulet  of  Campsie  parish,  Stirlingshire. 
Formed  by  the  confluence  of  Pow,  Finglen,  and  Kirk- 
ton  Burns,  near  Campsie  Glen  station,  it  thence  runs 
4J  miles  south-eastward  past  Lennostown  and  Milton, 
till  it  falls  into  the  Kelvin  opposite  Kh'kintilloch.  It 
traverses,  over  much  of  its  coarse,  a  rocky  channel 
fretted  by  the  floods  of  ages  ;  receives  no  fewer  than 
sixteen  little  affluents ;  and  affords  such  abundant  water- 
power  as  to  have  been  a  main  cause,  along  with  the 
plenteousness  of  coal,  why  manufactures  have  taken  root 
and  flourished  in  Campsie. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  30,  31, 
1866-67. 

Glazert,  a  troutful  burn  of  Dunlop  and  Stewarton 
parishes,  Ayrshire,  rising  close  to  the  Renfrewshire 
border,  2|  miles  IvNE  of  Dunlop  village,  and  winding 
lOJ  miles  south-south-westward  till  it  falls  into  Aunick 
Water  at  Watermeetings,  44  miles  NW  of  Kilmarnock. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  22,  1865.  " 

Glen,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Traquair  parish, 
Peeblesshire,  near  the  left  bank  of  Quair  Water,  5  miles 
SW  by  S  of  Innerleithen.  Sold  for  £10,500  in  1796, 
and  for  £33,140  in  1852,  the  estate  is  now  the  property 
of  Charles  Tennant,  Esq.  (b.  1S23  ;  sue.  1878),  who  has 
sat  as  Liberal  member  for  Peebles  and  Selkirk  shires  since 
ISSO,  and  who  holds  3500  acres  in  the  county,  valued 
at  £897  per  annum.  The  mansion,  erected  in  1854, 
and  enlarged  in  1874,  is  a  stately  Scottish  Baronial  edi- 
fice, from  designs  by  the  late  David  Bryce,  with  beauti- 
ful gardens,  vineries,  an  artificial  lake  of  3  acres,  etc. 
A  short  way  higher  up  is  the  '  frightful  chasm  '  of  Glen- 
dean's  Banks,  which,  |  mile  long,  is  flanked  on  either 
hand  by  lofty  shelving  cliffs,  and  takes  up  a  mountain 
footpath  into  Yarrow. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  24,  1864. 

Glen,  a  village  in  Falkirk  parish,  Stirlingshire,  1 J  mile 
S  of  Falkirk  town,  under  which  it  has  a  post  office. 
Pop.  (1881)  319. 

Glenae,  a  mansion  in  Tinwald  parish,  Dumfriesshire, 
Bear  the  left  bank  of  Park  Burn,  IJ  mile  NNW  of 
Amisfield  station,  and  6  miles  N  by  E  of  Dumfries.  It 
superseded  an  ancient  baronial  fortalice,  now  a  ruin,  on 
Wood  farm  in  the  parish  of  Kirkmichael,  4  miles  N  by 
W ;  and  it  gave  designation  to  three  baronets  from 
1666  to  1703  belonging  to  a  branch  of  the  famOy  of 
Dalzell,  who,  in  the  latter  year,  succeeded  to  the  earldom 
of  Carnwath.  Its  present  owner,  David  Brainerd 
Dalzell,  Esq.,  M.D.  [h.  1823;  sue.  1S47),  holds  1234 
acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £943  per  annum. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  10,  1864. 

Glenaffric.     See  Affric. 

Glenafton.     See  Aftox. 

Glenaladale,  a  glen  in  Moidart  district,  SW  Inver- 
ness-shire. Descending  3|  miles  east-south-eastward  and 
south-by-eastward  to  the  middle  of  Loch  Shiel,  it  has  a 


flat  bottom  about  300  yards  broad,  and  is  flanked  by 
green  rounded  hills. 

Glenalbert,  a  farmhouse  in  Little  Dunkeld  parish 
Perthshire,  near  the  riglit  bank  of  the  Tay,  |  mile  NNW 
of  Dalguise  station.  It  is  the  scene  of  Mrs  Bruntou's 
novel  Self  Control  (ISll),  and  near  it  is  a  beautiful  water- 
fall. 

Glenalla  Fell,  a  hill  (1406  feet)  in  the  S  of  Kirkmichael 
parish,  Ayrsliire,  3  miles  SW  by  S  of  Straiten. 

Glenalmond,  either  all,  or  much,  or  a  small  part  of 
the  vale  of  the  river  Almond,  in  Perthshire.  The  small 
part,  lying  in  the  northern  section  of  Crieff  parish,  and 
extending  2|  miles  south-eastward  to  Fendoch  Camp  in 
tlie  vicinity  of  Buchanty,  is  a  deep,  narrow  defile,  only 
wide  enough  to  afford  passage  to  the  river  and  a  road, 
and  flanked  by  bare  rocky  acclivities  rising  to  the  height 
of  from  1600  to  2117  feet  above  sea-leveh  It  is  commonly 
designated  the  Sma'  Glen  ;  and  contains  an  old  stone- 
faced  excavation,  noticed  under  Clach-na-Cssian.  The 
section  of  the  vale  eastward  of  the  Sma'  Glen,  to  the 
extent  of  about  3  square  miles,  bears  the  distinctive 
name  of  Logie-Almond  ;  but  contains,  7  miles  NNE  of 
Crieff,  Glenalmond  post  ofiice  under  Perth,  with  money 
order  and  savings'  bank  departments,  as  also  Glenalmond 
House  on  the  C.ilRNlES  estate,  and  the  Scottish  Epis- 
copal College  of  the  Holy  and  Undivided  Trinity,  com- 
monly known  as  Glenalmond  College.  The  last  stands 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  mnding  Almond,  4  miles  NW 
of  Methven  station,  this  being  7f  W  by  N  of  Perth.  It 
was  originated  in  1841,  'to  embrace  objects  not  attain- 
able in  any  public  foundation  hitherto  established  in 
Scotland,  viz. — the  combination  of  general  education 
with  domestic  discipline  and  systematic  religious  super- 
intendence ; '  and  until  1875  it  comprehended  a  theo- 
logical department,  now  removed  to  Ediuburgh.  There 
are  a  warden,  sub-warden,  and  five  assistant  masters  ; 
whilst  the  governing  council  consists  of  the  bishops  of 
the  Scottish  Episcopal  Church  and  nine  others,  amongst 
them  the  Right  Hon.  W.  E.  Gladstone,  whose  father.  Sir 
John  Gladstone  of  Fasque,  was  a  principal  founder  of 
the  college.  Its  site  aud  grounds,  20  acres  in  extent,  were 
given  by  the  late  Lord  Justice-Clerk  Patton  of  Cairnies ; 
the  chapel  was  built  (1851)  at  the  sole  expense  (over 
£8000)  of  the  first  Warden,  Charles  Wordsworth,  since 
Bishop  of  St  Andrews  ;  and  the  entire  cost  of  the  work 
had  been  £90,000,  when,  on  26  Oct.  1875,  a  fui'ther 
large  outlay  was  entailed  by  a  disastrous  fire  that  de- 
stroyed the  W  wing  and  did  other  damage  to  a  total 
amount  of  £20,000.  The  buildings,  designed  by  the 
late  Sir  Gilbert  Scott,  were  opened  in  1847.  In  the 
Domestic  Gothic  style  of  the  15th  centui-y,  they  offer  a 
very  fine  frontage  to  the  W,  and  form,  apart  from  the 
chapel,  a  quadrangle  190  feet  sc^uare.  The  entrance  is 
through  an  arched  gateway,  surmounted  by  an  embattled 
tower ;  opposite,  on  the  E  side,  is  the  handsome  dining- 
hall ;  and  from  the  SE  corner  the  chapel  projects  to  the 
eastward  of  the  other  buildings.  It  is  136  feet  long,  52 
wide,  and  80  high ;  in  style  is  Decorated  or  Middle 
Pointed  ;  has  a  graceful  SW  tower  and  spire ;  and  is 
riclily  adorned  with  beautiful  stained  glass  to  the  '  pious 
memory '  of  old  Glenalmondians  and  others.  — Ord.  Sur. , 
sh.  47,  1869. 

Glenample,  a  glen  in  Balquhidder  parish,  Perthshire, 
traversed  by  the  Burn  of  Ample,  which,  rising  at  an 
altitude  of  1050  feet  above  sea-level,  runs  5  miles  north- 
by-eastward  till,  4  mile  below  its  beautiful  cascade  and 
1  j  ESE  of  Lochearnhead,  it  falls  into  Loch  Earn  (306 
feet)  in  the  grounds  of  Edinample. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  46, 
1872. 

Glenapp,  a  picturesque  glen  in  Ballaxtrae  parish, 
SW  Ayrshire,  with  a  post  oflice  under  Girvan,  4  J  miles 
N  of  Cairnryan,  and  ej  S  of  Ballantrae  village.  It  is 
traversed  by  the  shallow  Water  of  App,  descending  from 
Beneraid  6  miles  south-westward  to  Loch  Ryan,  and 
followed  over  the  last  3  j  miles  of  its  course  by  the  road 
from  Ayr  and  Girvan  to  Stranraer.  Glenapp  estate  wao 
purchased  from  the  Earl  of  Orkney  in  1864  by  James 
Hunter,  Esq.  (b.  1818),  for  whom  a  Scottish  Baronial 
mansion,  Glenapp  House,  was  built  by  the  late  Mr  David 

177 


GLENARAY 

Bryce  in  1S70,  and  who  holds  8580  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £3105  per  annum,  including  £400  for  minerals. 
Glenapp  quoad  sacra  parish,  constituted  in  1874,  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  Stranraer  and  synod  of  Galloway.  Its 
church  ('Butters  Church')  and  school  arose  more  than 
40  years  since  from  a  bequest  of  £4500  and  15  acres  of 
land  by  a  lady  of  the  name  of  Caddall.  Pop.  of  q.  s. 
parish  (18S1)  W2.—0rd.  Sur.,  sh.  7,  1863. 

Glenaray.     See  Aray  and  Inveraky. 

Glenarbuck,  a  ravine  in  Old  Kilpatrick  parish,  Dum- 
bartonshire, running  down  the  face  of  the  Kilpatrick 
Hills  from  Craigarestie  (1166  feet)  IJ  mile  southward  to 
the  Clyde  in  the  eastern  vicinity  of  Bowling  Bay.  It 
looks  like  a  broad  deep  rent  in  the  hills,  formed  by  the 
vertical  stroke  of  an  earthquake.  Glenarbuck  House 
stands  on  a  slope  between  its  foot  and  the  Clyde,  and 
is  a  fine  mansion,  embosomed  in  wood. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
30,  1866. 

Glenarchaig.    See  Archaig,  Loch. 

Glenarklet.     See  Arklet. 

Glenartney,  a  beautiful  sylvan  glen  in  Comrie  parish. 
Upper  Strathearn,  Perthshire,  traversed  by  the  last  7i 
miles  of  hazel-fringed  Ruchill  Water,  which,  after  a 
north-easterly  course,  falls  into  the  Earn,  opposite  Comrie 
village.  Itself  descending  from  700  to  200  feet  above  sea- 
level,  it  is  flanked  on  its  left  side  by  mountainous  Glen- 
artney deer  forest,  the  property  of  Lady  Willoughby  de 
Eresby,  which  culminates  at  2317  feet,  and  in  which 
Prince  Albert  shot  his  first  Highland  stag  on  12  Sept. 
1842.  The  region  along  all  its  right  side  was  anciently 
a  royal  forest ;  and  here  in  1589  the  Macgregors  mur- 
dered James  VI.  's  forester,  Drummond  of  Drummond 
Ernoch,  and  swore  on  their  victim's  head  to  avow  and 
defend  the  deed.  Scott  wove  the  episode  into  his 
Legend  of  Montrose,  and  it  led  to  the  outlawry  of  the 
Macgregor  clan. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  47,  1869. 

Glenaven,  the  upper  part,  or  the  whole,  of  the  High- 
land vale  of  the  river  Aven,  in  S  Banffshire.  On  5 
Sept.  1860  the  Queen  and  Prince  Consort  rode  8  miles 
up  it  from  Tomintoul  to  Inchrory,  and  thence  3  miles 
onward  to  Loch  Builg.  Her  Majesty  describes  'the 
road  winding  at  the  bottom  of  the  glen,  which  is  in 
part  tolerably  wide,  but  narrows  as  it  turns  and  winds 
towards  Inchrory,  where  it  is  called  Glenaven.  The 
hills,  sloping  down  to  the  river  side,  are  beautifully 
green.  It  was  very  muggy — quite  oppressive — and  the 
greater  part  of  the  road  cleep  and  sloppy,  till  we  came 
upon  the  granite  formation  again.  .  .  .  We  passed 
by  Inchrory — seeing,  as  we  approached,  two  eagles  tower- 
ing splendidly  above,  and  alighting  on  the  top  of  the 
hills.'  The  upper  part  of  the  vale,  called  specially 
Glenaven,  constitutes  the  southern  or  alpine  division  of 
Kirkmichael  parish,  and  is  disposed  as  a  deer  forest  of 
the  Duke  of  Richmond  and  Gordon. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs. 
74,  75,  85,  1877-76. 

Glenaven,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Stonehouse 
parish,  Lanarkshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  Avon  Water, 
2^  miles  N  of  Stonehouse  town. 

Glenays,  an  old  baronial  fortalice,  now  a  fragmentary' 
ruin,  in  Maybole  parish,  Ayrshire,  4J  miles  S  by  W  of 
Ayr. 

Glenbarr  Abbey,  a  mansion  in  Killean  parish,  W 
Kintj're,  Argyllshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  Barr  Water,  5 
furlongs  above  its  mouth  and  6-1-  miles  S  by  W  of  Tayin- 
loan.  It  is  the  seat  of  Keith  Macalister,  Esq.  (b.  1803  ; 
sue.  1830),  who  holds  17,235  acres  in  the  shire,  valued 
at  £2618  per  annum.  Across  the  stream  is  a  post  ofBce 
hamlet,  with  a  public  school. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  20,  1876. 

Glenbarry,  a  station  on  the  Banffshire  section  of  the 
Great  North  of  Scotland  railway,  in  Ordiquhill  parish, 
4f  miles  NE  of  Grange  Junction,  and  114  SW  of  Banff. 

Glenbeg,  a  glen  in  Glenelg  parish,  NW  Inverness- 
shire,  extending  5  miles  west-north-westward  to  the  head 
of  Sleat  Sound,  1 J  mile  SW  of  Glenelg  village.  It  con- 
tains two  well-preserved  Scandinavian  round  towers — the 
one  25  feet  high,  and  54  in  circumference  ;  the  other  30 
feet  high,  and  57  in  circumference. 

Glenbeich,  a  glen  in  the  W  of  Comrie  parish,  Perth- 
shire, traversed  by  Beich  Burn,  which,  rising  at  an 
178 


GLENBOLTACHAN 

altitude  of  2000  feet  above  sea-level,  runs  7J  miles  south- 
south-westward,  till  it  falls  into  Loch  Earn  (306  feet) 
at  a  point  Ig  mile  E  by  N  of  the  head  of  the  lake,  and 
which  in  one  place  forms  a  beautiful  cascade. — Ord. 
Sur.,  shs.  47,  46,  1869-72. 

Glenbennan  Hill,  a  heathy  ridge  in  the  W  of  Kirk- 
patrick-Irongray  parish,  N"E  Kirkcudbrightshire,  flank- 
ing the  right  side  of  the  Old  Water  of  Cluden,  and  rising 
to  an  altitude  of  1305  feet  above  sea-level. 

Glenbervie  (anciently  Overbcrvie),  a  parish  of  central 
Kincardineshire,  containing  Drtjmlithie  village,  -n-ith 
a  station  on  the  Caledonian  railway,  7J  miles  SW  of 
Stonehaven.  It  is  bounded  N  by  Durris,  NE  by 
Fetteresso,  E  by  Dnnnottar,  SE  by  Arbuthnott,  SW  and 
W  by  Fordoun,  and  NW  by  Strachan.  Its  utmost 
length,  from  N  to  S,  is  55  miles ;  its  utmost  breadth, 
from  E  to  W,  is  6§  miles;  and  its  area  is  15,071^ 
acres,  of  which  30  are  water.  Bervie  Water  flows  4| 
miles  east-south-eastward  along  the  Fordoun  border  ; 
Carron  Water  rises  in  the  middle  of  the  western  dis- 
trict, and  runs  eastward  into  Dunnottar ;  and  CowiB 
Water,  rising  at  the  NW  corner,  runs  east-by-northward 
across  the  northern  district.  The  land  descends  south- 
ward and  eastward  from  the  frontier  Grampians,  and 
presents  an  uneven,  hilly,  and  ridgy  appearance,  being 
naturally  divided  into  four  districts,  first  by  a  sort  of 
ravine  separating  the  W  from  the  middle,  then  by  an 
abrupt  sandbank  separating  the  middle  from  the  SE, 
and  lastly,  by  a  narrow  range  of  the  frontier  Grampians 
separating  the  middle  from  the  N.  The  surface  sinks  in 
the  extreme  S  to  262  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising 
to  732  feet  at  Droon  Hill,  736  near  Upper  Kinmonth, 
543  near  Kealog,  746  at  Mid  Hill,  1281  at  Leachie  HiU, 
1163  at  Craiginour,  951  at  the  Hill  of  Three  Stones,  and 
1231  at  Monluth  Hill,  which  culminates  right  upon  the 
Durris  border.  The  rocks  are  mainly  trap  and  Devonian ; 
and  the  soils  are  extremely  various,  comprising  some 
good  clay  loam  and  a  good  deal  of  thin  reddish  land 
that  yields  only  moderate  crops,  with  here  and  there 
deposits  of  moss.  Within  the  last  thirty  years  important 
improvements,  in  the  way  of  draining,  reclaiming,  plant- 
ing, etc.,  have  been  effected  on  both  the  Glenbervie  and 
Drumlithie  estates,  upwards  of  £10,000  having  been  ex- 
pended thereon  since  1855  by  the  proprietor  of  the 
former,  James  Badenach  Nicolson,  Esq.  (b.  1832),  who 
owns  1161  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £727  per  annum. 
His  seat,  Glenbervie  House,  on  the  left  bank  of  Bervie 
Water,  If  mile  WSW  of  Drumlithie,  is  an  old  man- 
sion, whose  grounds  are  well  wooded,  like  the  other 
estates  in  the  parish.  In  all  4  proprietors  hold  each  an 
annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  2  of  between  £100 
and  £500,  1  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  2  of  from  £20  to 
£50.  Giving  ofi'a  small  portion  to  Eickarton  quoad  sacra 
parish,  Glenbervie  is  in  the  presbyterj'  of  Fordoun  and 
synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns  ;  the  living  is  worth  £288. 
The  parish  church,  near  Glenbervie  House,  was  built  in 
1826,  and  contains  700  sittings.  A  Free  church  and  an 
Episcopal  church  have  been  noticed  under  Drumlithie  ; 
and  three  public  schools — Brae,  Drumlithie  junior,  ancl 
Glenbervie — Avith  respective  accommodation  for  60,  70, 
and  85  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of 
26,  34,  and  32,  and  grants  of  £30,  8s.,  £10,  16s.,  and 
£17,  3s.  Valuation  (1856)  £5651,  (1882)  £8135, 
15s.  2d.,  plus  £1884  for  railway.  Pop.  (1801)  1204, 
(1841)  1296,  (1861)  1219,  (1871)  1073,  (1881)  972,  of 
whom  10  were  in  Rickarton. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  66,  1871. 

Glenboig,  a  village  at  the  western  verge  of  New  Monk- 
land  parish,  Lanarkshire,  with  a  station  on  the  Cale- 
donian, 2J  miles  N  by  W  of  the  post-town  Coatbridge. 
It  has  large  fire-clay  and  brick  works,  a  post  ofiice,  a 
public  school,  a  Roman  Catholic  school  (1881),  and  the 
Roman  Catholic  church  of  Our  Lady  and  St  Joseph 
(1880).    Pop.,  with  G.A.RNQIIEEN,  (1871)307,  (1881)934. 

Glenboltachan,  a  glen  in  Comrie  parish,  Perthshire, 
descending  3J  miles  south-eastward  from  Loch  BoL- 
TACHAN  to  the  river  Earn,  at  a  point  3^  miles  WNW  of 
Comrie  -vdllage.  It  is  the  glen  up  which  Hogg's 
'  Bonny  Kilmeny'  gaed,  and  was  the  scene  of  the  final 
and  almost  exterminating  victory  of  the  Macnabs  over 


GLENBORRODALE  CASTLE 


GLENCAIRN 


the  Neishes  in  the  early  part  of  the  17th  century. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  47,  1S69. 

Glenborrodale  Castle,  a  modern  mansion  in  Ardna- 
murchan  parish,  Argyllshire,  near  the  N  shore  of  Loch 
Sunart,  7  miles  WSW  of  Saleu.  Its  owner,  John  James 
Dalgleish,  Esq.  (b.  1836;  sue.  1870),  holds  55,000 
acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £5962  per  annum. 

Glenbriarachan.     See  Beiakachan. 

Glenbrighty.     See  Bkighty. 

Glenbuok,  a  village  amid  the  hills  of  Muirkirk  parish, 
E  AjTshire,  within  7  furlongs  of  the  Lanarkshire  border, 
and  near  a  station  of  its  own  name  on  the  Douglasdale 
branch  of  the  Caledonian,  3J  mUes  ENE  of  Muirkirk 
town.  It  has  large  coal  and  lime  works,  a  post  office 
under  Lanark,  a  public  school,  and  an  Established 
chapel  of  ease  (1881).  Near  the  station  are  two  reser- 
voirs— the  Upper  (of  x  2  furl.)  and  the  Lower  (4x1 
furl. ).  They  were  formed  about  1802  to  furnish  water- 
power  to  cotton  works  at  Catrine.  The  House  of  Glen- 
buck  is  a  mansion  of  recent  erection,  the  seat  of  Charles 
Howatson,  Esq.  of  Glenbuck.  Pop.  of  village  (1851) 
237,  (1871)  311,  (1881)  858.— Ocd.  Sur.,  shs.  23,  15, 
1865-64. 

Glenbucket,  a  parish  on  the  western  border  of  Aber- 
deenshire, containing,  near  its  SE  corner.  Bridge  of 
Bucket  pos',  office,  14|  miles  W  of  Afford  station,  and 
iih  \VNW  of  its  post-town,  Aberdeen.  It  is  bounded 
N  by  Cabrach,  E  by  the  Glenkindie  section  of  Strath- 
don,  SE  by  the  Culquoich  section  of  Tarland,  S  and 
SW  by  Strathdon,  and  NW  by  Inveraven  in  Banff- 
shire. Its  utmost  length,  from  WNW  to  ESE,  is  7i 
miles  ;  its  breadth  varies  between  IJ  and  3 J  miles ; 
and  its  area  is  11,0S3|  acres.  The  N  is  drained 
by  head-streams  of  the  Deveron  ;  and  the  Allt 
Sughain  and  Coulins  Burn,  rising  in  the  extreme  W 
at  1900  and  2100  feet  above  sea-level,  and  running 
2J  mUes  south-eastward  and  2f  miles  east-by-south- 
ward, unite  to  form  the  Water  of  Bucket,  flowing  5| 
miles  east-south-eastward  through  the  middle  of  the 
parish  to  the  Don,  which  itself  winds  7  fm-longs  north- 
eastward and  south-eastward  along  all  the  Tarland 
border.  The  surface,  sinking  along  the  Don  to  774  feet 
above  sea-level,  thence  rises  to  1561  feet  at  *Millbuie  Hill, 
1831  at  *JIeikle  Forbridge  Hill,  2073  at  *Creag  an 
Innean,  1901  at  *Clasheuteple  Hill,  1998  at  *Ladvlea 
Hill,  1525  at  White  Hill,  2159  at  *Moss  Hill,  1S86  at 
the  Socach,  1862  at  Allt  Sughain  Hill,  and  2241  at 
*Geal  Charn,  where  asterisks  mark  those  summits  that 
culminate  right  on  the  borders  of  the  parish.  Grey- 
wacke,  mica  slate,  and  serpentine  prevail  throughout 
the  upper  portion  of  the  parish ;  the  lower  is  rich  in 
primary  limestone  and  gneiss,  the  former  of  which, 
containing  70  per  cent,  of  lime,  has  been  largely 
worked.  The  soil  of  the  middle  glen  is  much  of  it  a 
fertile  yellow  loam  ;  but  that  of  the  higher  grounds  is 
mostly  poor  gi'avelly  clay ;  whUst  near  the  Deveron's 
sources  are  vast  deposits  of  peat.  Glenbucket  Castle, 
near  the  Don's  left  bank,  J  mile  W  of  Bridge  of  Bucket, 
is  a  picturesque  ruin,  with  its  turrets  and  corbie-stepped 
gables.  Built  in  1590,  it  was  the  seat  of  the  Gordons 
of  Glenbucket,  the  last  of  whom  fought  at  both  Sheriff- 
muir  (1715)  and  Culloden  (1746).  From  place  to  place 
he  was  hunted,  till,  letting  his  beard  grow  and  assum- 
ing the  garb  of  a  beggar,  he  at  length  effected  his  escape 
to  Norway.  Glenbucket  shooting-lodge,  7  miles  WNW 
of  Bridge  of  Bucket,  was  built  in  1840  by  the  Earl  of 
Fife,  on  or  near  the  site  of  the  dwelling  of  '  John  o' 
Badenyon, '  the  hero  of  a  capital  song  by  the  Eev.  John 
Skinner.  One  other  memory  has  Glenbucket,  that 
here  on  the  moors  of  Glencairney,  'among  the  bonny 
blooming  heather,'  died,  just  as  he  had  hoped  to  die, 
the  last  of  the  '  old  poachers,'  Sandy  Davidson,  25  Aug. 
1843.  The  Earl  of  Fife  is  almost  sole  proprietor. 
Glenbucket  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Alford  and  sjTiod  of 
Aberdeen  ;  the  li\'ing  is  worth  £177.  The  church,  2 
miles  W  of  Bridge  of  Bucket,  is  an  old  building, 
dedicated  originally  to  St  Peter,  and  containing  300 
sittings.  Two  schools,  Glenbucket  public  and  Balloch 
Society's,  with  respective  accommodation  for  109  as  A 


35  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  79 
and  26,  and  grants  of  £57,  3s.  and  £36,  lis.  Valua- 
tion (1881)  £1883,  4s.  7d.  Pop.  (1801)  420,  (1831) 
539,  (1861)  552,  (1871)  570,  (1881)  506.— Ord  Sm:,  sh. 
75,  1876. 

Glenbuckie,  a  glen  in  Balquhidder  parish,  Perthshire, 
extending  5  miles  north-by-westward  to  the  foot  of 
Loch  Voil  at  Balquhidder  hamlet,  and  traversed  over 
the  last  2|  miles  by  the  lower  reaches  of  Calair  Burn. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  38,  46,  1871-72. 

Glen  Bum,  a  rivulet  of  Newabbey  parish,  Kirkcud- 
brightshire, rising  on  the  W  shoulder  of  Criflel  at  an 
altitude  of  1500  feet,  and  running  3J  miles  north-north- 
eastward, past  Carsegowan,  till,  after  a  descent  of  1350 
feet,  it  falls  into  Newabbey  Pow  in  the  western  vicinity 
of  Newabbey  village. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  5,  1857. 

Glenbum  Hydropathic.     See  Rothesay. 

Glenbumie,  a  hamlet  in  Abdie  parish,  Fife,  1^  mile 
SE  of  Newburgh. 

Glencainail.     See  Cainail. 

Glencaim,  a  parish  on  the  W  border  of  Nithsdale, 
Dumfriesshire,  containing  the  village  of  IIoniaive, 
7J  miles  WSW  of  Thornhill,  under  which  it  has  a 
post  office,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  tele- 
graph departments.  It  is  bounded  N  by  Tynron, 
E  by  Keir,  SE  and  S  by  Dunscore,  and  SW  and 
W  by  Balmaelellan  and  Dairy  in  Xircudbrightshire. 
Its  utmost  length  is  14-|  miles  from  NW  to  SE,  viz., 
from  Coranbae  Hill  on  the  Kirkcudbrightshire  border 
to  Dalgoner  Mill  on  Cairn  Water ;  at  Moniaive  it  has 
an  utmost  width  of  5J  miles,  and  tapers  thence  north- 
westward and  south-eastward ;  and  its  area  is  30,239 
acres,  of  which  155|  are  water.  From  1680  feet  on 
Coranbae  Hill,  DalW'HAT  Water  runs  10  miles  east- 
south-eastward ;  Craigdakeoch  Water,  from  1500  feet 
on  Cornharrow  HUl,  runs  6  miles  east-by-southward ; 
and  Castlefern  Water,  from  1200  feet  on  Troston 
HUl,  runs  7  miles  south-eastward  and  north-eastward 
along  the  Kirkcudbrightshire  border  and  through  the 
interior,  till,  J  mUe  S  of  Moniaive,  it  joins  Craigdarroch 
Water.  Their  confluent  stream,  J  mile  lower  down, 
falls  into  Dalwhat  Water,  and,  thenceforth  called  Cairn 
Water,  winds  6|  miles  south-eastward  through  the 
south-eastern  interior,  then  2*-  mUes  southward  along 
the  Dunscore  border.  Loch  Ukk  (5x4  furl. )  lies,  680 
feet  above  sea-level,  at  the  meeting-point  of  Glencaim, 
Dunscore,  and  Balmaelellan.  In  the  SE,  where  Cairn 
Water  quits  the  parish,  the  surface  declines  to  250  feet 
above  sea-level,  and  rises  thence  to  886  feet  at  Slate- 
house  Hill,  1171  at  Beuchan  Moor,  1416  at  Bogrie 
Hill,  942  at  Peelton  Hill,  1102  at  Terreran  Hill,  1045 
at  Craigdarroch  Hill,  1367  at  Big  Morton  Hill,  1747  at 
Cornharrow  Hill,  1900  at  Benbrack,  and  1961  at  Colt 
Hill,  whose  summit,  however,  falls  just  within  Tynron. 
Old  Red  sandstone  is  the  prevailing  rock,  and  a  sort  of 
slate  was  formerly  worked  near  Moniaive.  Some  7000 
acres  are  regularly  or  occasionally  in  tillage,  about  800 
are  under  wood,  and  the  rest  of  the  parish  is  pastoral  or 
waste.  An  oblong  artificial  mound,  the  Moat,  rises 
5  furlongs  WSW  of  the  church  ;  and  IJ  mile  SW  of 
Moniaive  is  Kirkcudbright,  the  site  of  a  chapel  dedi- 
cated to  St  Cuthbert.  The  Eev.  James  Renwick 
(1662-88),  last  of  the  Scottish  martjTS,  was  born  near 
Moniaive ;  and  a  monument  to  him,  25  feet  high,  was 
erected  on  a  rising  ground  in  1828.  Another  native 
was  Robert  Gordon,  D.D.  (1786-1853),  a  Disruption 
worthy.  In  the  latter  half  of  the  15th  century  Sir 
William  Cunningham  of  Kilmaues  wedded  Margaret, 
daughter  and  co-heiress  of  Sir  Robert  Dennieston  of 
that  ilk,  and  thereby  acquired  Glencairn  and  lands  in 
Renfrew,  Dumbarton,  and  Edinburgh  shires.  His 
grandson,  Alexander,  was  in  1445  created  Lord  Kil- 
maurs,  and  in  1488  Earl  of  Glencairn,  a  title  which 
became  dormant  at  the  death  of  the  fifteenth  Earl  in 
1796,  and  now  is  claimed  by  Sir  William  James  Mont- 
gomery-Cunninghame  of  CorsehUl  and  by  Captain  Wil- 
liam Cunninghame.  Alexander,  the  fifth  or  'good' 
Earl,  who  died  in  1574,  was  among  the  first  of  the 
Scote    nobil'>v   -Hiat  favoured    the    Reformation ;    and 

179 


GLENCANNICH 

James,  the  fourteenth  Earl  (1750-91),  is  rememtered  as  a 
patron  of  the  poet  Burns.  Auchenoheyne,  3  miles  SW 
of  Moniaive,  is  the  seat  of  James  Walter  Ferrier  Connell, 
Esq.  (b.  1853  ;  sue.  1876),  who  holds  3140  acres  in  the 
shirft;  valued  at  £1250  per  annum.  Other  mansions, 
noticed  separately,  are  Craigdarroch,  Crawfordton,  and 
Maxwellton  ;  and  8  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual 
value  of  £500  and  upwards,  20  of  between  £100  and 
£500,  5  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  8  of  from  £20  to  £50. 
Glencairn  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Penpont  and  synod 
of  Dumfries ;  the  living  is  worth  £330.  The  parish 
church,  2  miles  E  by  S  of  Moniaive,  was  built  in  1836, 
and  contains  1050  sittings.  At  Moniaive  are  Free  and 
U.  P.  churches  ;  and  three  public  schools — Ayr  Street, 
Chapel  Street,  and  Crossford — with  respective  accommo- 
dation for  93,  122,  and  89  children,  had  (1881)  an  average 
attendance  of  59,  9i,  and  37,  and  grants  of  £43,  5s., 
£62,  lis.,  and  £13,  17s.  2d.  Valuation  (1843)  £13,315, 
(1883)  £19,371,  18s.  6d.  Pop.  (1801)  1403,  (1831) 
2068,  (1861)  1867,  (1871)  1749,  (1881)  1737.— Orel.  Sur., 
sh.  9,  1863.  See  the  Rev.  J.  Monteith's  Acco^mt  of  the 
Parish  of  Glencairn  (1876). 

Glencannich,  the  glen  of  the  rivulet  Cannich,  in 
Kilmorack  parish,  NW  Inverness-shire.  Glencannich 
deer-forest,  to  the  N,  is  let  by  The  Chisholm  for  £1350 
a  year.— Ore?.  Sur.,  shs.  72,  82,  S3,  73,  1878-82. 

Glencaple,  a  seaport  village  in  Caerlaverock  parish, 
Dumfriesshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Nith,  5  miles 

5  by  E  of  Dumfries,  under  which  it  has  a  post  office. 
Founded  in  1747,  it  presents  a  tidy  and  cheerful  appear- 
ance, commands  a  charming  view  across  the  Nith  to 
Criffel,  and  serves  in  a  small  way  as  a  sea-bathing 
quarter  to  families  of  the  town  and  neighbourhood  of 
Dumfries.  Its  shipbuilding  is  all  but  quite  e.xtinct ; 
and,  ranking  as  a  sub-port  of  Dumfries,  it  has  scarcely 
any  trade  of  its  own,  but  serves  for  such  vessels  to  dis- 
charge their  cargoes  as  are  unable  to  sail  up  to  the 
burgh.  At  it  are  two  inns,  a  tolerably  good  quay,  a 
police  station,  a  school,  and  a  Free  church.— Ord  Sur., 
sh.  6,  1863. 

Glencarradale.    See  Caheadale. 

Glencarrick,  a  reach  of  the  basin  of  Duncow  Burn, 
in  Kirkmahoe  parish,  Dumfriesshire,  6i  miles  N  by  "W 
of  Dumfries.  A  pretty  cascade  is  on  the  burn  here, 
and  a  distillery  was  formerly  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  cascade. 

Glencarron,  a  vale  of  Lochcarron  parish,  SW  Ross- 
shire,  traversed  by  the  river  Carron,  which,  issuing 
from  Loch  Scaven  (491  feet),  flows  14  miles  south-west- 
ward to  the  head  of  salt-water  Loch  Carron,  and  about 
midway  in  its  course  expands  into  Loch  Doule  or 
Dhughaill  (If  mile  x  8  furl.  ;  100  feet).  The  vale  takes 
down  the  Dingwall  and  Skye  railway,  with  a  station 
thereon,  Glencarron,  17  miles  NE  of  Strome  Ferry  and 
36  WSW  of  Dingwall— 0)-(^.  Sicr.,  sh.  82,  1882. 

Glencarse,  a  hamlet  close  to  the  south-eastern  border 
of  Kinfanns  parish,  Perthshire,  with  a  station  on  the 
Dundee  and  Perth  section  of  the  Caledonian,  this  being 

6  miles  E  by  S  of  Perth,  under  which  it  has  a  post 
office,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph 
departments.  There  are  an  inn  and  an  Episcopal  church. 
All  Saints  (1878 ;  200  sittings),  an  Early  Domestic  Gothic 
edifice  of  pitch  pine  and  concrete.     Glencarse  House, 

7  furlongs  jST  by  W  of  the  station,  on  the  SE  slope  of 
wooded  Glencarse  Hill  (596  feet),  is  a  modern  mansion, 
the  seat  of  Thomas  Greig,  Esq.  (b.  1801  ;  sue.  1840), 
who  holds  662  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1496  per 
annum.— OrA  Sur.,  sh.  48,  1868. 

Glencatacol,  a  pastoral  and  romantic  glen  of  Kilmore 
parish,  in  the  NW  of  the  Isle  of  Arran,  Buteshire, 
descending  3-J  miles  northward  and  north-westward, 
from  an  altitude  of  1040  feet,  to  Kilbrannan  Sound  at 
Catacol  Bay,  2 J  miles  SW  of  Loch  Ranza. — Ord.  Sur,, 
sh.  21,  1870. 

Glenceitlein.    See  Glenketlaitd. 

Glenchalmadale.    See  Glenhalmadale. 

Glenclova,  the  upper  part  of  the  basin  of  the  South 
EsK,  in  CoRTACiiY  AND  Clova  parish,  Forfarshire. 

Glencloy,  a  glen  in  Kilbride  parish,  on  the  E  side  of  the 
180 


GLENCOE 

Isle  of  Arran,  Buteshire.  Commencing  as  Gleann  Duhh 
at  an  altitude  of  1480  feet,  it  descends  4  miles  north- 
eastward to  a  convergence  with  Glensherrig  and  Glen- 
rosie,  in  the  vicinity  of  Brodick,  and  for  the  first  2 
miles  is  a  deep,  dark  ravine,  flanked  by  high  hills,  and 
traversed  by  an  impetuous  streamlet. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
21,  1870. 

Glenclunie.    See  Cltjnie,  Loch  ;  and  Glensheil. 

Glencoe  (Gael,  gleann-cumhann,  '  narrow  vale '),  a 
desolate  defile  in  Lismore  and  Appin  parish,  N  Argyll- 
shire, commencing  at  a  'col'  (1011  feet)  that  parts  it 
from  Glenetive  and  the  basin  of  the  Tay,  and  thence 
descending  7h  miles  west-by-northward  to  salt-water 
Loch  Leven  at  Invercoe,  If  mile  ENE  of  Ballachulish. 
It  is  traversed  from  head  to  foot  by  the  turbulent  CoE, 
the  '  Cona '  of  Ossian,  which  midway  expands  into 
sullen  Loch  Triochatan  (3x2  furl. ;  235  feet) ;  and  it 
takes  up  a  road  leading  17  miles  east-by-southward 
from  Ballachulish  Pier  to  Kingshouse  Inn.  As  one 
ascends  this  road,  on  the  left  stand  Sgor  na  Ciche  or 
the  Pap  of  Glencoe  (2430  feet),  Sgor  nam  Fiannaidh 
(3168),  and  Meall  Dearg  (3118) ;  on  the  right  Meall  Mor 
(2215),  Benveedan  (3766),  and  Buachaille-Etive- 
Bheag  (3129) — porphyritic,  conical  mountains  that  rise 
'  on  either  side  nearly  as  abruptly  as  the  peaks  of  the 
Alps  burst  out  of  the  coating  of  snow.  There  is  a 
narrow  strip  of  grazing  ground  in  the  main  glen, 
watered  by  the  Cona ;  there  are  a  few,  still  narrower, 
scattered  here  and  there  in  the  upper  levels,  whence 
start  the  scaurs  and  mural  precipices.'  Of  many  de- 
scriptions of  Glencoe,  none  is  so  fine  and  gi-aphic  as  that 
in  Dorothy  Wordsworth's  Journal,  under  date  3  Sept. 
1803  : — '  The  impression  was,  as  we  advanced  up  to  the 
head  of  this  first  reach,  as  if  the  glen  were  nothing,  its 
loneliness  and  retirement — as  if  it  made  up  no  part  of 
my  feeling  :  the  mountains  were  all  in  all.  That  which 
fronted  us — I  have  forgotten  its  name — was  exceedingly 
lofty,  the  surface  stony,  nay,  the  whole  mountain  was 
one  mass  of  stone,  wrinkled  and  puclcered  up  together. 
At  the  second  and  last  reach — for  it  is  not  a  winding 
vale — it  makes  a  quick  turning  almost  at  right  angles 
to  the  first  ;  and  now  we  are  in  the  depths  of  the  moun- 
tains ;  no  trees  in  the  glen,  only  green  pasturage  for 
sheep,  and  here  and  there  a  plot  of  hay-ground,  and 
something  that  tells  of  former  cultivation.  I  observed 
this  to  the  guide,  who  said  that  formerly  the  glen  had 
had  many  inhabitants,  and  that  there,  as  elsewhere  in  | 
the  Highlands,  there  had  been  a  great  deal  of  com  \ 
where  now  the  lands  were  left  waste,  and  nothing  fed 
upon  them  but  cattle.  I  cannot  attempt  to  describe 
the  mountains.  I  can  only  say  that  I  thought  those  on 
our  right — for  the  other  side  was  only  a  continued  high 
ridge  or  craggy  barrier,  broken  along  the  top  into  petty 
spiral  forms — were  the  grandest  I  had  ever  seen.  It 
seldom  happens  that  mountains  in  a  very  clear  air  look 
exceedingly  high,  but  these,  though  we  could  see  the 
whole  of  tliem  to  their  very  summits,  appeared  to  me 
more  majestic  in  their  own  nakedness  than  our  imagina- 
tions could  have  conceived  them  to  be,  had  they  been 
half  hidden  by  clouds,  yet  showing  some  of  their  highest 
pinnacles.  They  were  such  forms  as  Milton  might  be 
supposed  to  have  had  in  his  mind  when  he  appUed  to 
Satan  that  sublime  expression — 

"  His  stature  reached  the  sky." 

The  first  division  of  the  glen,  as  I  have  said,  was  scat- 
tered over  with  rocks,  trees,  and  woody  hillocks,  and 
cottages  were  to  be  seen  here  and  there.  The  second 
division  is  bare  and  stony,  huge  mountains  on  all  sides, 
with  a  slender  pasturage  in  the  bottom  of  the  valley  ; 
and  towards  the  head  of  it  is  a  small  lake  or  tarn,  and 
near  the  tarn  a  single  inhabited  dwelling,  and  some 
unfenced  hay -ground — a  simple  impressive  scene  !  Our 
road  frequently  crossed  large  streams  of  stones,  left  by 
the  mountain-torrents,  losing  all  appearance  of  a  road. 
After  we  had  passed  the  tarn  the  glen  became  less  in- 
teresting, or  rather  the  mountains,  from  the  manner 
in  which  they  are  looked  at ;  but  again,  a  little  higher 
up,  they  resume  their  grandeur.      The  river  is,  for  a 


GLENCOE 

short  space,  liidden  between  steep  rocks :  we  left  the 
road,  and,  going  to  the  top  of  one  of  the  rocks,  saw 
it  foaming  over  stones,  or  lodged  in  dark  black  dens  ; 
birch-trees  grew  on  the  inaccessible  banks,  and  a 
few  old  Scotch  firs  towered  above  them.  At  the  en- 
trance of  the  glen  the  mountains  had  been  all  without 
trees,  but  here  the  birches  climb  very  far  up  the  side  of 
one  of  them  opposite  to  us,  half  concealing  a  rivulet, 
wdiich  came  tumbling  down  as  white  as  snow  from  the 
very  top  of  the  mountain.  Leaving  the  rock,  we  as- 
cended a  hill  which  terminated  the  glen.  We  often 
stopped  to  look  behind  at  the  majestic  company  of  moun- 
tains we  had  left.  Before  us  was  no  single  paramount 
eminence,  but  a  mountain  waste,  mountain  beyond 
mountain,  and  a  barren  hollow  or  basin  into  which  we 
were  descending.  ...  At  Kingshouse,  in  comparing 
the  impressions  we  had  received  at  Glencoe,  we  found  that 
though  the  expectations  of  both  had  been  far  surpassed 
by  the  grandeur  of  the  mountains,  we  had  upon  the 
whole  both  been  disappointed,  and  from  the  same 
cause ;  we  had  been  prepared  for  images  of  terror,  had 
expected  a  deep,  den-like  valley  with  overhanging  rocks, 
such  as  William  has  described  in  his  lines  upon  the 
Alps.  The  place  had  nothing  of  this  character,  the 
glen  being  open  to  the  eye  of  day,  the  mountains  re- 
tiring in  independent  majesty.  Even  in  the  upper  part 
of  it,  where  the  stream  rushed  through  the  rocky  chasm, 
it  was  but  a  deep  trench  in  the  vale,  not  the  vale  itself, 
and  could  only  be  seen  when  we  were  close  to  it.' 

Glencoe  has  been  claimed  for  Ossian's  birthplace  ;  but 
its  chief,  everlasting  fame  arises  from  the  massacre  of  13 
Feb.  1692.  To  break  the  power  of  the  Jacobite  High- 
landers, a  plan  was  concerted  between  John  Campbell, 
Earl  of  Breadalbane,  and  Sir  John  Dalrymple,  Master 
of  Stair — a  Highland  chieftain  the  one,  a  Lowland 
statesman  the  other.  The  Earl  obtained  £20,000  from 
government  to  bribe  the  allegiance  of  the  chiefs,  while 
a  proclamation  was  issued  by  the  Privy  Council  declar- 
ing all  to  be  traitors  who  did  not  take  the  oath  to 
William  and  Mary  on  or  before  31  Dec.  1691.  Not  till 
that  very  day  did  old  Macdonald  of  Glencoe,  surnamed 
Mac  Ian,  repair  with  his  principal  clansmen  to  Fort 
William  and  ofl'er  to  be  sworn.  At  Fort  William,  how- 
ever, there  was  no  magistrate  ;  the  sheriff  of  Argyllshire 
at  Inverary  was  the  nearest ;  and  this  caused  a  further 
delay  of  six  days.  The  roll  was  then  sent  into  Edin- 
burgh, with  a  certificate  explaining  the  circumstances 
of  the  case  ;  but  that  certificate  was  suppressed,  and 
Glencoe's  name  deleted  from  the  roll.  Stair  was  the 
man  that  did  this  hateful  deed,  and  Stair  it  was  who 
straightway  procured  the  signature  of  William  to  an 
order  '  to  extirpate  that  sect  of  thieves. ' 

On  1  Feb.  120  soldiers,  Campbells  mostly,  and  under 
the  command  of  Captain  Campbell  of  Glenlyon,  were 
approaching  Glencoe,  when  they  were  met  by  John  Mac- 
donald, the  elder  son  of  the  chief,  at  the  head  of  some 
20  men.  To  his  question  as  to  the  reason  of  this  incur- 
sion of  a  military  force  into  a  peaceful  country,  Glen- 
lyon answered  that  they  came  as  friends,  and  that  their 
sole  object  was  to  obtain  suitable  quarters,  where  they 
could  conveniently  collect  the  arrears  of  cess  and  hearth- 
money, — a  new  tax  laid  on  by  the  Scottish  parliament 
in  1690, — in  proof  of  which.  Lieutenant  Lyndsay  pro- 
duced the  instructions  of  Colonel  Hill  to  that  effect. 
They  thereupon  received  a  hearty  welcome,  and  were 
hospitably  entertained  by  Glencoe  and  his  people  till 
the  fatal  morning  of  the  massacre.  Indeed,  so  familiar 
was  Glenlyon,  that  scarcely  a  day  passed  that  he  did 
not  visit  the  house  of  Alexander  Macdonald,  the  younger 
son  of  the  chief,  who  was  married  to  Glenlyon's  niece, 
the  sister  of  Rob  Roy,  and  take  his  morning  dram, 
agreeably  to  the  most  approved  practice  of  Highland 
hospitality. 

In  pursuance  of  fresh  instructions  from  Dalrj-mple, 
on  12  Feb.  Lieut. -Col.  Hamilton  received  orders  forth- 
with to  execute  the  fatal  commission.  Accordingly,  on 
the  same  day,  he  directed  Major  Robert  Duncanson  of 
Argyll's  regiment  to  proceed  immediately  with  a  detach- 
ment of  that  regiment  to  Glencoe    so  as  to  reach  the 


GLENCOE 

post  which  had  been  assigned  him  by  five  o'clock  the 
following  morning,  at  which  hour  Hamilton  promised 
to  reach  another  post  v/ith  a  party  of  Hill's  regiment. 
Whether  Duncanson,  who  appears  to  have  been  a  Camp- 
bell, was  averse  to  take  an  active  personal  part  in  the 
bloody  tragedy  about  to  he  enacted,  is  a  question  that 
cannot  now  be  solved  ;  but  it  may  have  been  from  some 
repugnance  to  act  in  person  that  immediately  on  receipt 
of  Hamilton's  order,  he  despatched  another  order  from 
himself  to  Captain  Campbell  of  Glenlyon,  then  living 
in  Glencoe,  with  instructions  to  fall  upon  the  Mac- 
donalds  preciselj'  at  five  o'clock  the  following  morning, 
and  put  all  to  the  sword  under  seventy  years  of  age. 

Glenlyon  himself  appears  to  have  been  a  man  equal 
to  any  kind  of  loathsome  work,  especially  against  a 
Macdonald.  With  this  sanguinary  order  in  his  pocket, 
and  with  his  mind  made  up  to  execute  it  rigorously,  he 
did  not  hesitate  to  spend  the  eve  of  the  massacre  play- 
ing at  cards  with  John  and  Alexander  Jlacdonald,  the 
sons  of  the  chief,  to  wish  them  good  night  at  parting, 
and  to  accept  an  invitation  from  Glencoe  himself  to  dine 
with  him  the  following  day.  Little  suspecting  the  in- 
tended butchery,  Glencoe  and  his  sons  retired  to  rest  at 
their  usual  hour ;  but  early  in  the  morning,  while  the 
preparations  for  the  intended  massacre  were  going  on, 
John  Macdonald,  the  elder  son  of  the  chief,  hearing  the 
sound  of  voices  about  his  house,  grew  alarmed,  and 
jumping  out  of  bed  threw  on  his  clothes  and  went  to 
Inverriggen,  where  Glenlyon  was  quartered,  to  ascertain 
the  cause  of  the  unusual  bustle  which  had  interrupted 
his  nocturnal  slumbers.  To  his  great  surprise  he  found 
the  soldiers  all  in  motion,  as  if  pi'eparing  for  some  enter- 
prise, which  induced  him  to  inquire  of  Glenlyon  the 
object  of  these  extraordinary  prepiarations  at  such  an 
early  hour.  Glenlyon  endeavoured  by  professions  of 
friendship  to  lull  his  suspicions,  and  pretended  that  his 
sole  design  was  to  march  against  some  of  Glengarry's 
men.  As  John  Macdonald,  the  younger  son  of  Glencoe, 
was  married  to  Glenlyon's  niece,  that  crafty  knave  re- 
ferred to  his  connection  with  the  family,  and  put  it  to 
the  young  man,  whether,  if  he  intended  anything  hostile 
to  the  clan,  he  would  not  have  provided  for  the  safety 
of  his  niece  and  her  husband.  Macdonald,  apparently 
satisfied  with  this  explanation,  returned  home  and  retired 
again  to  rest,  but  he  had  not  been  long  in  bed  when  his 
servant  informed  him  of  the  approach  of  a  party  of  men. 
Jumping  out  of  bed  he  ran  to  the  door,  and  perceiving 
a  body  of  20  soldiers  with  muskets  and  fixed  bayonets 
coming  in  the  direction  of  his  house,  he  fled  to  a  neigh- 
bouring hill,  where  he  was  joined  by  his  brother  Alex- 
ander, who  had  escaped  from  the  scene  of  carnage,  after 
being  wakened  from  sleep  by  his  servant. 

The  massacre  commenced  about  five  o'clock  in  the 
morning  at  three  different  places  at  once.  Glenlyon 
undertook  to  butcher  his  own  hospitable  landlord  and 
the  other  inhabitants  of  Inverriggen,  where  he  and  a 
party  of  his  men  were  cpiartered,  and  despatched 
Lieutenant  Lyndsay  with  another  party  of  soldiers  to 
Glencoe's  house  to  cut  off  the  unsuspecting  chief.  Under 
pretence  of  a  friendly  visit,  he  and  his  party  obtained 
admission.  Glencoe  was  in  bed,  and  while  in  the  act 
of  rising  to  receive  his  visitors,  was  shot  through  the 
head  by  two  of  the  soldiers.  His  wife  was  already  up 
and  dressed,  but  the  ruffians  stripped  her  naked,  tore 
the  rings  off  her  fingers  with  their  teeth,  and  so  mal- 
treated her  that  she  died  the  following  day.  The  party 
also  killed  two  men  whom  they  found  in  the  house,  and 
wounded  a  third  named  Duncan  Don,  who  came 
occasionally  to  Glencoe  with  letters  from  Braemar. 

While  the  butchery  was  going  on  in  Glencoe's  house, 
Glenlyon  was  busy  with  his  bloody  work  at  Invei-riggen, 
where  his  own  host  was  shot  by  his  order.  Here  the 
party  seized  nine  men,  whom  they  first  bound  hand  and 
foot,  and  then  shot  one  by  one.  Glenlyon  was  desirous 
of  saving  the  life  of  a  young  man  twenty  years  old,  but 
Captain  Drummond  shot  him  dead.  He  too  it  was  that, 
impelled  by  a  thirst  for  blood,  ran  his  dagger  through 
the  body  of  a  hoy  who  had  grasped  Glenlyon  by  the 
legs  and  was  imploring  mercy.  • 

181 


GLENCOE 

A  third  party  under  the  command  of  Sergeant  Bar- 
bour, which  was  quartered  in  the  hamlet  of  Auchnaion, 
fired  on  a  body  of  nine  men  whom  they  observed  in  a 
house  in  the  village  sitting  before  a  fire.  Among  these 
was  the  laird  of  Auchintriaten,  who  was  killed  on  the 
spot,  along  with  four  more  of  the  party.  This  gentle- 
man had  at  the  time  a  protection  in  his  pocket  from 
Colonel  Hill,  which  he  had  received  three  months 
before.  The  rest  of  the  party,  two  or  three  of  them 
wounded,  escaped  by  the  back  of  the  house,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a  brother  of  Auchintriaten,  who,  having  been 
seized  by  Barbour,  asked  as  a  favour  to  be  killed  in  the 
open  air.  The  sergeant  consented,  on  account  of  having 
snared  his  generous  hospitality  ;  but  when  brought  out 
he  threw  his  plaid,  which  he  had  kept  loose,  over  the 
faces  of  the  soldiers  who  were  appointed  to  shoot  him, 
and  in  a  moment  was  lost  in  the  darkness. 

Besides  the  slaughter  at  these  three  places,  there  were 
persons  dragged  from  their  beds  and  murdered  in  other 
parts  of  the  Glen,  among  them  an  old  man  eighty  years 
of  age.  In  all,  38  were  slaughtered.  The  whole  male 
population  under  70  years  of  age,  amounting  to  200, 
would  in  all  likelihood  have  been  cut  off,  if,  fortunately 
for  them,  the  party  [of  400  men  under  Lieutenant-Colonel 
Hamilton,  who  was  principally  charged  with  the  execu- 
tion of  the  sanguinary  warrant,  had  not  been  prevented 
by  the  severity  of  the  weather  from  reaching  the  Glen 
till  eleven  o'clock,  six  hours  after  the  massacre,  by 
which  time  the  whole  surviving  male  inhabitants, 
warned  of  their  danger  and  of  the  fate  of  their  chief 
and  other  sufferers,  had  fled  to  the  hills.  Ignorant  of 
this  latter  circumstance,  Hamilton,  on  arriving  at  the 
pass,  appointed  several  parties  to  proceed  to  different 
parts  of  the  Glen,  with  orders  to  take  no  prisoners,  but 
to  kill  all  the  men  that  came  in  their  way.  They  had 
not,  however,  proceeded  far  when  they  fell  in  with 
Major  Duncanson's  party,  who  informed  them  of  the 
events  of  the  morning,  and  told  them  that  as  the  sur- 
vivors had  escaped  to  the  hills,  they  had  nothing  to  do 
but  to  burn  the  houses,  and  carry  off  the  cattle.  They 
accordingly  set  fire  to  the  houses,  and  having  collected 
the  cattle  and  effects  in  the  Glen,  carried  them  to  Inver- 
lochy,  where  they  were  divided  among  the  ofiicers  of  the 
garrison.  That  Hamilton  would  have  executed  his  com- 
mission to  the  very  letter,  is  evident  from  the  fact,  that 
an  old  man,  above  seventy,  the  only  remaining  male 
inhabitant  of  the  desolate  vale  they  fell  in  with,  was  by 
his  orders  put  to  death. 

After  the  destruction  of  the  houses,  a  heartrending 
scene  ensued.  Aged  matrons,  women  with  child,  and 
mothers  with  babies  at  their  breast  and  chilch-en  todd- 
ling after  them,  might  be  seen  wending  their  way,  half- 
naked,  towards  the  mountains  in  quest  of  some  friendly 
hovel,  beneath  whose  roof  they  might  seek  shelter  from 
the  pitiless  tempest  and  deplore  their  unhappy  fate. 
But  as  there  were  no  houses  within  the  distance  of 
several  miles,  and  as  these  could  only  be  reached  by 
crossing  mountains  deeply  covered  with  snow,  a  great 
number  of  these  unhappy  beings,  overcome  by  cold, 
fatigue,  and  hunger,  dropped  down  and  perished  miser- 
ably in  the  snow. 

^  The  tale  of  perfidy  and  blood  excited  widespread  in- 
dignation. A  parliamentary  inquiry  was  only  averted 
by  the  nomination  of  a  royal  commission,  which  found 
(1695)  that  William's  instructions  'offered  no  warrant 
for  the  measure. '  Stair  was  severely  censured,  but  was 
left  to  be  dealt  with  by  the  king,  who  was  addressed  to 
prosecute  Glenlyon,  Major  Buncanson,  Captain  Drum- 
mond,  etc. ,  then  in  Flanders.     And  so  the  affair  ended. 

Glencoe  gives  name  to  a  post  office,  with  money  order, 
savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  departments,  an  Established 
chapel  of  ease,  St  Mary's  Episcopal  Church  (1880  ;  250 
sittings),  and  St  Mun's  Roman  Catholic  (1836  ;  100 
sittings).  Invercoe  House,  on  the  Coe's  right  bank, 
immediately  above  its  mouth,  is  the  seat  of  Archibald 
Burns-Macdonald,  Esq.  of  Glencoe  (b.  1829),  who  holds 
6305  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £715  per  annum. 
Pop.  of  registration  district  of  Ballachulish  and  Glencoe 
(1861)  1324,  (1871)  1529,  (1881)  1444,  of  whom  1363 
182 


GLENCORSE 

were  Gaelic-speaking. —OrcZ.  Sur.,  sh.  53,  1877.  See 
pp.  170-179  of  Dorothy  Wordsworth's  Tour  in  Scot- 
land (ed.  by  Princ.  Shairp,  1874) ;  chap,  xviii.  of  Lord 
Macaulay's  History  of  Enc/land  (1855)  ;  and  vol.  vii., 
pp.  394-413,  of  Dr  Hill  Burton's  History  of  Scotlmid 
(ed.  1876). 

Glencona.     See  Cona. 

Glenconrie.     See  Coseie. 

Glenconvinth,  a  glen  in  Kiltarlity  and  Convinth 
parish,  Inverness-shire,  traversed  by  Belladrum  Burn, 
which,  rising  at  an  altitude  of  780  feet  above  sea-level, 
winds  71  miles  northward,  till,  after  a  descent  of  758 
feet,  it  falls  into  the  river  Beauly,  just  below  Beaufort 
Castle,  4  miles  SSW  of  Beauly  town.  Glenconvinth 
takes  up  a  road  from  Strathglass  to  Glenurquhart  and 
Loch  Ness.  It  received  its  name  from  an  ancient 
nunnery,  traces  of  whose  chapel  may  still  be  seen  2J 
miles  S  of  Kiltarlity  church,  and  near  which  is  Glen- 
convinth public  schooh — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  83,  1881. 

Glencorse,  a  parish  towards  the  middle  of  Edinburgh- 
shire, containing,  near  its  eastern  border,  Auchin- 
DINNT  village  and  the  Glencorse  terminus  of  the  Roslin 
branch  of  the  North  British,  \i\  miles  S  of  Edinburgh, 
from  which  by  road  the  parish  is  only  6  to  8  miles  dis- 
tant. Its  post  office  is  Milton  Bridge,  and  Penicuik  is 
the  nearest  town, — within  5  furlongs  of  its  southern  ex- 
tremity. Bounded  NW  by  Colinton,  N  and  E  by  Lass- 
wade,  and  S  and  AV  by  Penicuik,  it  has  an  utmost 
length  from  WNW  to  ESE  of  3^  miles,  an  utmost 
breadth  from  NNE  to  SSW  of  2|  miles,  and  an  area  of 
4292  J  acres,  of  which  1 7  are  water.  Near  Auchindinny 
the  river  North  Esk  winds  If  mile  east-north-eastward 
along  the  Lasswade  border,  and  here  is  joined  by  Glen- 
corse Burn,  which,  rising  in  Penicuik  as  Logan  Burn  at 
an  altitude  of  1400  feet,  in  Penicuik  has  an  east-north- 
easterly course  of  3|  miles,  through  a  false  '  Habbie's 
Howe  '  and  Loganlee  Reservoir  (J  mile  x  J  furl. ).  In 
Glencorse  it  first  runs  5J  furlongs  along  the  Penicuik 
border  to  crescent-shaped  Glencorse  Reservoir  or  the 
Compensation  Pond  (j  mile  x  by  IJ  furl.),  and  then 
winds  SJ  miles  east-south-eastward  across  the  interior. 
From  source  to  mouth  it  is  a  pretty  little  stream  ;  and 
its  expansion,  Glencorse  Reservoir,  has  much  of  the 
beauty  of  a  natural  lake,  with  its  wooded  islet  and  its 
girdle  of  big  green  rounded  hills.  It  was  formed  in 
1819-28,  at  a  cost  of  nearly  £200,000,  by  damming  the 
burn's  glen  with  a  huge  embankment,  128  yards  long, 
140  yards  broad  at  the  base,  and  130  feet  high.  Along 
the  North  Esk  the  surface  sinks  to  a  trifle  less  than  600 
feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  west-north-westward 
to  the  Pentlands,  of  which  Castlelaw  (1595  feet)  and 
Turnhouse  Hill  (1500)  stand  N  and  S  of  Glencorse 
Reservoir,  whilst  Carnethy  Hill  (1890)  falls  just  within 
Penicuik  parish.  The  rocks  of  the  hills  are  mainly 
eruptive,  including  clinkstone,  greenstone,  claystone, 
and  porphyry  ;  those  of  the  lower  grounds  are  carboni- 
ferous— sandstone,  limestone,  coal,  and  shale.  Iron- 
stone of  fine  quality  is  worked  by  the  Shotts  Iron  Co. 
at  Greenlaw  ;  and  Dalmore  paper-mill  at  Auchindinny 
employs  a  large  number  of  families.  The  soil  ranges 
from  moss  to  stiff  clay,  from  gravel  to  the  finest 
loam  ;  and  much  that  formerly  was  barren  moor  is  now 
either  arable  or  under  wood.  Submerged  beneath  the 
waters  of  the  reservoir  is  the  site  of  St  Catherine's 
chapel,  said  falsely  to  have  been  founded  by  Sir  William 
St  Clair,  who  fell  in  battle  with  the  Moors  of  Andalusia, 
along  with  the  Good  Sir  James  Douglas  (1330).  He 
had  wagered — so  runs  the  story — with  the  Bruce  that 
Help  and  Hold,  his  hounds,  would  pull  down  a  fleet 
white  deer  before  it  crossed  the  burn.  His  life  was  the 
forfeit,  and  the  scene  of  the  chase  the  prize  ;  but,  with 
St  Catherine's  help,  he  won  the  wager,  so  dedicated  this 
chapel  to  her  honour.  Logan  House  or  Tower,  although 
in  Penicuik  parish,  may  from  its  close  proximity  be 
noticed  here.  Supposed,  on  no  good  evidence,  to  have 
been  a  royal  hunting-seat,  it  consisted  originally  of  a 
single  tower,  built  in  1230  or  thereby,  to  which  another 
was  added  on  the  N  side  earlv  in  the  15th  century  by 
William  St  Clair,   third  Earfof  Orkney.     By  the  St 


GLENCOUL 

Clairs  of  Roslin  it  was  occasionally  occupied  down  to 
the  middle  of  the  17th  century.  About  |  mile  higher 
up  the  gleu  are  remains  of  what  was  probably  a 
chapel.  Rullion  Green,  the  scene  of  the  Covenanters' 
overthrow  (1666)  and  House  of  Muir,  w'here  formerly 
great  sheepmarkets  were  held,  are  both,  in  the  S  of  the 
parish,  and  both  are  treated  of  in  separate  articles. 
Greenlaw  or  Glencorse  Barracks,  the  depot  of  the  Roj'al 
Scots  (Lothian  Eegiment),  stand  Ij  mile  NNE  of  Peni- 
cuik and  7J  miles  S  of  Edinburgh.  An  old  mansion 
here  was  converted,  in  1804,  into  a  dep8t  for  French 
prisoners  of  war ;  and  in  1813  a  suite  of  buildings,  to 
accommodate  6000  prisoners  and  their  guard,  was  erected 
at  a  total  cost  of  £100,000.  The  conclusion  of  peace 
nest  year  sent  all  the  French  prisoners  home,  and 
Greenlaw  thereafter  was  little  utilised,  till  in  1875-77  it 
was  altered  and  extended,  at  a  fresh  outlay  of  £30,000, 
to  serve  as  the  central  brigade  depot  of  the  army  of  the 
south-east  of  Scotland.  On  17  Jan.  1881  the  new 
Douglas  Barrack,  a  wooden  two-story  pile,  which  mea- 
sured 140  by  108  feet,  was  wholly  destroyed  by  fire ;  but 
the  damage  was  repaired  by  the  end  of  April  1882,  stone 
in  the  restoration  taking  the  place  of  wood.  Glencorse 
House,  near  the  right  bank  of  Glencorse  Bum,  2J  miles 
NNE  of  Penicuik,  is  the  property  of  the  Right  Hon.  John 
Inglis  (b.  1810),  Lord  President  of  the  Court  of  Session, 
who  owns  857  acres  in  the  shire  valued  at  £1603  per 
annum,  and  whose  father,  the  Rev.  John  Inglis,  D.D. 
(1763-1834),  an  eminent  divine,  was  resident  here. 
Other  mansions,  noticed  separately,  are  Beeslack,  Bel- 
wood,  Bush,  Loganbank,  Mauricewood,  and  Woodhouse- 
lee ;  and,  in  all,  6  proprietors  held  each  an  annual  value 
of  £500  and  upwards,  4  of  between  £100  and  £500,  4  of 
from  £50  to  £100,  and  7  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Formed, 
in  1616,  out  of  the  ancient  parishes  of  Pentland  and 
Penicuik,  Glencorse  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Dalkeith 
and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale ;  the  living  is  worth 
£260.  The  church,  built  in  1665,  contains  200  sittings ; 
and  a  public  school,  with  accommodation  for  180  chil- 
dren, had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  166,  and  a 
grant  of  £124,  18s.  Valuation  (1S60)  £6411,  (1883) 
£10,602,  plus  £4736  for  railway  and  waterworks.  Pop. 
(1801)  390,  (1831)  652,  (1861)  1217,  (1871)  1153,  (1881) 
1500,  of  whom  144  were  soldiers  in  the  barracks  and  48 
in  the  military  prison. — Ord.  Siir.,  sh.  32,  1857.  See 
an  article  by  Andrew  Keer  on  '  Glencorse  and  its  Old 
Buildings  '  in  Procs.  Soc.  AnU.  Scotl.  (1879). 

Glencoul,  a  glen  in  Eddrachillis  parish,  W  Suther- 
land, traversed  by  Glencoul  river,  which,  issuing  from 
Loch  an  Urchoill  (5J  x  If  furl.  ;  1200  feet),  runs  2S 
miles  north-westward  to  the  head  of  salt-water  Loch 
Glencoul.  At  one  point  the  impetuous  Glencoul  is 
joined  by  a  yet  more  impetuous  tributary,  making  a 
waterfall  of  nearly  700  feet  in  leap.  Loch  Glencoul, 
one  of  the  two  arms  of  Kylesku,  the  other  being  Loch 
Glendhu,  with  a  varying  width  of  2J  and  7  furlongs, 
extends  2|  miles  south-eastward,  or  3|  if  one  includes 
Loch  Beag  (7  x  3  furl. )  at  its  head  ;  and  is  overhung  by 
hills  that  rise  steeply  to  1722  feet  on  the  north-eastern 
and  902  on  the  south-western  side.  It  is  famous  for  its 
productive  herring  fishery.— Orii.  Siir.,  shs.  108,  107, 
1880-81. 

Glencreraa,  an  Argyllshire  glen  on  the  mutual  border 
of  Ardchattan  parish  and  Lismore  and  Appin.  It  is 
traversed  by  the  Creean,  descending  11 J  miles  west- 
south-westward  to  the  head  of  salt-water  Loch  Creran. 
A  mission-station  of  the  Church  of  Scotland,  conjoint 
with  another  in  Glenetive,  is  in  Glencreran,  and  has  a 
schoolhouse  as  its  place  of  worship.  There  is  also  an 
Episcopal  church,  St  Mary's  (1878  ;  60  sittings),  a  13th 
century  Gothic  edifice,  with  good  stained  glass. — Ord. 
Sur.,  shs.  53,  45,  1877-76. 

Glencroe,  an  alpine  glen  of  Lochgoilhead  parish  in  the 
N  of  Cowal  district,  Argyllshire.  Commencing  at  a  col 
(860  feet)  between  the  heads  of  Loch  Fyne  and  Loch  Long, 
it  descends  4i  miles  south-eastward  to  Loch  Long  at 
Ardgartan,  ^  miles  SW  of  Arrochar;  is  flanked  on  the 
N  side  by  Ben  Akthuk  or  the  Cobbler  (2891  feet),  on 
the  S  side  by  the  Brack  (2500)  and  Ben  Donich  (2774) ; 


6LENDEV0N 

and  is  traversed  by  impetuous  Croe  Water,  and  by  the 
road  from  Loch  Lomond  to  Inverary  by  way  of 
Arrochar  and  Glenkinglas.  The  rocks  consist  almost 
entirely  of  mica  slate,  shining  like  silver,  beautifully 
undulated,  and  in  many  parts  embedded  in  quartz. 
Large  masses,  fallen  from  the  mountains,  lie  strewn 
on  the  bottom  of  the  glen ;  others,  of  every  shape, 
jut  from  the  mountains'  side,  and  seem  every  moment 
ready  to  fall ;  and  torrents  descend  the  cliff's  and 
declivities  in  great  diversity  of  rush  and  leap,  and 
make  innumerable  waterfalls.  The  road  was  tbrmed 
by  one  of  the  regiments  under  General  Wade,  imme- 
diately after  the  Rebellion  of  1745  ;  it  descends  for 
1^  mile  in  declivitous  zig-zag,  and,  though  proceed- 
ing thence  at  an  easier  gradient  to  the  foot,  is  every- 
where difficult  and  fatiguing.  A  stone  seat,  inscribed 
'Rest  and  be  Thankful,'  is  placed  at  its  summit; 
superseded  a  plainer  one  placed  on  the  same  spot  by  the 
makers  of  the  road  ;  and  is  sung  as  follows  by  Words- 
worth : — 

*  Doubling  and  doubling  with  laborious  walk, 
Who  that  at  lengrth  has  gained  the  wished-for  height. 
This  brief,  this  simple,  wayside  call  can  slight. 
And  rest  not  thankful?' 

And  Dorothy,  his  sister,  describes  '  the  narrow  dale, 
\vith  a  length  of  winding  road,  a  road  that  seemed  to 
have  insinuated  itself  into  the  very  heart  of  the  moun- 
tains— the  brook,  the  road,  bare  hills,  floating  mists, 
scattered  stones,  rocks,  and  herds  of  black  cattle  being 
all  that  we  could  see.'— Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  37,  38,  1876-71. 

Glencross.     See  Glexcokse. 

Glencul.     See  Glencoitl. 

Glendale,  a  vale  in  Duirinish  parish.  Isle  of  Skye, 
Inverness-shire,  extending  5  miles  north-north-westward 
from  Macleod's  Tables  to  the  head  of  salt-water  Loch 
Pooltiel.  Its  bottom  is  4  to  6  furlongs  broad ;  its 
sloping  sides  are  covered  with  very  rich  pasture  ;  and  it 
contains  a  post  office  under  Portree,  and  a  modern  man- 
sion, Glendale,  the  seat  of  the  late  Right  Hon.  Sir  John 
Macpherson  Macleod  (1792-1881),  of  Indian  celebrity, 
who  owned  35,022  acres  in  Inverness-shire,  valued  at 
£1258  per  annum.  The  Glendale  estate  figured  some- 
what largely  in  the  crofters'  agitation  of  1881-82. 

Glendaruel,  a  beautiful  valley  in  Kilmodan  parish, 
Cowal,  Argyllshire,  traversed  by  the  Ruel,  a  salmon 
and  trout  stream  which,  formed  by  two  head-streams  at 
an  altitude  of  90  feet  above  sea-level,  winds  lOJ  miles 
south-by-westward  to  the  head  of  salt-water  Loch  Rid- 
dan.  It  takes  down  a  road  from  Strachur  Ferry  to 
Colintraive,  and  contains  a  post  office  of  its  own  name 
under  Greenock.  Glendaruel  House,  19  miles  NNW  of 
Rothesay,  is  the  seat  of  Robert  Hume  Campbell,  Esq. 
(b.  1846;  sue.  1875),  who  holds  14,032  acres  in  the 
shire,  valued  at  £2361  per  annum. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  37, 
29,  1876-73. 

Glendean's  Banks.     See  Glen,  Peeblesshire. 

Glendearg,  a  glen  in  the  N  of  Blair  Athole  parish, 
Perthshire,  descending  4J  miles  south-south-eastward 
from  the  eastern  skirts  of  Ben  Dearg  to  Glen  Tilt. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  64,  55,  1874-69. 

Glendearg,  Roxburghshire.     See  Allen. 

Glendelvine,  an  estate,  with  a  modern  mansion,  in 
Caputh  parish,  Perthshire,  IJ  mile  NNE  of  Caputh 
village. 

Glen  Deny.     See  Deert,  Aberdeenshire. 

Glendevon,  a  parish  in  the  Ochil  district  of  Perth- 
shire, containing  Burnfoot  hamlet  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  river  Devon,  3  miles  NHW  of  Muckart  and  7 
NNE  of  the  post  town,  Dollar.  A  capital  fronting  sta- 
tion, it  has  a  wool  mill,  and  fairs  on  the  first  Thursday 
of  April,  the  Wednesday  after  the  second  Thursday  of 
July,  the  third  Thursday  of  August,  the  fourth  Thursday 
of  September,  and  the  third  Thm-sday  of  November. 

The  parish  is  bounded  N  by  Auchterarder,  NE  by 
Dunning,  E  by  Fossoway,  SE  by  Muckart,  S  by  Dollar 
in  Clackmannanshire,  and  W  and  NW  by  Blackford. 
Its  length,  from  E  to  W,  varies  between  2^  and  5| 
miles ;  its  utmost  breadth,  from  N  to  S,  is  4i  miles ; 

is'a 


GLENDHU 

and  its  area  is  9154J  acres,  of  which  21§  are  water.  The 
'clear  winding  Devon,'  at  4^  miles  from  its  source, 
begins  to  trace  for  24  miles  the  boundary  with  Black- 
ford ;  then  runs  2|  miles  eastward  across  the  interior, 
on  the  right  hand  receiving  Frandy,  Glensherup,  and 
Glenquhey  Burns ;  and  then,  bending  south-eastward, 
traces  for  2J  miles  the  boundary  with  Fossoway. 
Throughout  this  course  its  glen  or  narrow  vale — Glen- 
devon  proper,  from  which  the  parish  takes  its  name — 
is  flanked  immediately  by  broomy  braes  and  swelling 
pastoral  hills ;  remotely,  toward  the  boundaries,  by 
summit-lines  of  the  Ochils.  Opposite  what  is  called 
the  Black  Linn  is  a  conical  knoll,  much  frequented  by 
picnic  parties,  and  commanding  a  beautiful  view  of  the 
main  reaches  of  the  glen.  In  the  extreme  E  the  surface 
declines  to  660  feet  above  the  sea  ;  and  the  chief  eleva- 
tions to  the  right  or  S  of  the  Devon  are  Innerdownie 
(2004  feet),  Tarmangie  Hill  (1868),  and  Bald  Hill  (1636), 
whilst  to  the  left  or  N  rise  the  Seat  (1408),  and,  on  the 
Auchterarder  border,  Sim's  Hill  (1582)  and  Carlownie 
Hill  (1522).  The  rocks  are  chiefly  eruptive.  The 
arable  land,  consisting  of  scattered  patches  along  the 
bottom  of  the  glen,  amounts  to  little  more  than  200 
acres,  and  has  a  light  dry  soil,  inclining  to  gravel. 
Glendevon  House  is  surrounded  by  pleasure  grounds, 
containing  a  small  eminence  called  Gallows  Knowe. 
An  old  castle  stands  on  the  Glendevon  estate  ;  is  said 
to  have  belonged  to  William,  eighth  Earl  of  Douglas, 
slain  in  1452  by  James  II.  at  Stirling ;  and  continues 
in  a  state  of  good  preservation.  A  spot  on  the  hillside 
near  the  hamlet  was  covered  once  with  a  huge  congre- 
gation, assembled  from  great  distances  to  hear  a  sermon 
by  the  Rev.  Ebenezer  Erskine.  The  property  is  divided 
among  five.  Glendevon  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Auchter- 
arder and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling ;  the  living  is 
worth  £192.  The  church  is  plain  and  very  small ;  and 
a  public  school,  with  accommodation  for  38  children, 
had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  11,  and  a  grant  of 
£22,  14s.  Valuation  (18S2)  £3152,  15s.  6d.  Pop. 
(1801)  149,  (1831)  192,  (1861)  138,  (1871)  105,  (1881) 
147.— Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  39,  1869. 

Glendhu(6aeL  yleanndubh,  'dark  valley'),  the  upper 
glen  of  Dttchray  Water,  on  the  eastern  slope  of  Ben 
Lomond,  in  Buchanan  parish,  W  Stirlingshire. 

Glendhu,  a  glen  and  a  sea-loch  in  the  S  of  Eddra- 
chillis  parish,  W  Sutherland.  The  glen  takes  down  a 
rivulet,  issuing  from  Loch  Strath  nan  Asinn  teach  (5-J  x  1 
furl.  ;  870  feet  above  sea-level),  and  running  2J  miles 
west-by -northward  to  the  head  of  the  sea-loch ;  it  is 
flanked,  on  the  S  side,  by  Ben  Leoid  (2597  feet).  Loch 
Glendhu  extends  2g  miles  westward  into  junction  with 
Loch  Glencoul,  forming  with  that  loch  the  head  of 
Ktlesku  ;  measures  from  1 J  to  44  furlongs  in  breadth  ; 
and  is  flanked  by  steep  hills  1 700  feet  high.  It  has  great 
depth  of  water  ;  and  is  so  frequented  by  herring-shoals 
that  no  less  than  £30,000  worth  of  herrings  have  been 
caught  in  it  in  the  course  of  a  year. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs. 
108,  107,  1880-81. 

Glendhu,  a  glen  in  Ardchattan  parish,  Argyllshire, 
traversed  by  the  Abhainn  Teithil,  which,  rising  at  an 
altitude  of  1750  feet,  winds  3J  miles  westward  till  it 
falls  into  Loch  Creran,  at  a  point  1  mile  1^  of  Barcaldine 
House.  It  abounds  with  fallow-deer  ;  and,  in  its  lower 
section,  is  luxuriantly  clothed  with  wood. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  45,  187G. 

Glendhu,  the  glen  of  the  Black  Water  in  Morvern 
parish,  Argyllshire,  descending  8J  miles  south-south- 
westward  to  the  head  of  salt-water  Loch  Aline.  Lead 
ore  of  considerable  richness  occurs  in  it  at  Lurg,  and  was 
worked  for  some  time  in  the  first  half  of  last  century  by 
a  company  called  the  Morvern  Mining  Company. 

Glendinning,  an  estate  in  Westerkirk  parish,  NE 
Dumfriesshire,  on  Megget  Water,  5  miles  N  by  W  of 
the  church.  It  belongs  to  Sir  F.  J.  W.  Johnstone  of 
Westerhall,  Bart.,  and  contains  remains  of  an  old 
castle.  An  antimony  mine  was  worked  on  it  from  1793 
till  1798,  and  produced,  in  that  time,  100  tons  of  regulus 
of  antimony,  worth  £8400.— OrcZ.  Sitr.,  sh.  10,  1864. 

Glen  Diridh.    See  Glendeaes,  Perthshire. 
184 


GLENELG 

Glendochart.     See  Dochakt. 

Glendochart,  a  hill-farm  in  the  NE  of  Penninghame 
parish,  NE  Wigtownshire.  It  is  traversed  by  the  ancient 
rampart  called  the  Deil's  Dyke  ;  and  it  contains,  in  the 
line  of  that  rampart,  a  circular  hill-fort,  190  yards  in 
diameter. 

Glendoick,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Kinfauns 
parish,  SE  Perthshire,  on  the  southern  slope  of  the 
Sidlaws,  2  miles  NNE  of  Glencarse  station.  It  was 
purchased  in  1726  by  Robert  Craigie  (1685-1760),  who 
became  lord  advocate  in  1742,  lord  president  of  the 
court  of  session  in  1754,  and  by  whom  the  mansion  was 
built.  His  descendant's  widow,  Mrs  Craigie,  holds 
1016  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1798  per  annum. 
Glendoick  hamlet,  in  Errol  parish,  1  mile  S  of  Glen- 
doick House,  and  1|  NE  of  Glencarse  station,  has  a 
public  school,  and  a  post  office  under  Perth. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  48,  1868. 

GlendoU.     See  Doll. 

Glendorch  Burn,  a  stream  in  Crawfordjohn  parish, 
Lanarkshire,  running  2J  miles  north-north-westward  to 
Snar  Water  at  a  point  2f  miles  SSW  of  Crawfordjohn 
village.     Glendorch  Castle  stood  at  its  mouth. 

Glendouglas.  See  Douglas,  Lanarkshire,  Dumbar- 
tonshire, and  Argyllshire. 

Glendovan.    See  Glendevon. 

Glendow.     See  Glendhu. 

Glendowachy  or  Glenquithle,  a  ravine  adjacent  to 
the  mutual  boundary  of  Gamrie  parish,  Banffshire,  and 
Aberdour  parish,  Aberdeenshire,  3  miles  E  of  Gardens- 
town.  It  has  a  wild  romantic  character,  debouching 
near  a  waterfall  of  30  feet  in  leap  ;  and  it  gave  name  to 
an  ancient  thauage  granted  by  Robert  I.  in  the  third 
decade  of  the  14th  century  to  Hugh,  fifth  Earl  of  Ross, 
and  by  Robert  II.  in  1382  to  John  Lyonu,  knight. 
Glendowachy  was  its  ancient,  and  Glenquithle  is  its 
modern,  name. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  97,  1876. 

Glendowran  Burn,  a  stream  in  Crawfordjohn  parish, 
Lanarkshire,  running  1^  mile  north-westward  to  Snar 
Water  at  a  point  IJ  mile  SSW  of  Crawfordjohn  village. 
Lead  ore  has  been  found  in  its  basin. 

Glendronach,  a  place  with  a  large  distillery  in  Forgue 
parish,  NW  Aberdeenshire,  9  miles  ENE  of  Huntly. 

Glendubh.     See  Glendhu. 

Glenduckie.     See  Flisk. 

Glenduror.     See  Dueor. 

Glendye.     See  Dye  Water,  Kincardineshire. 

Gleneagles,  a  romantic  glen  in  Blackford  parish, 
SE  Perthshire,  traversed  by  the  first  2J  miles  of 
RuTHVEN  Water,  and  descending  north-north-westward 
from  950  to  400  feet  above  sea-level.  It  carries  up  a 
road  from  Strathearn  and  Strathallan  to  Glendevon ; 
and  some  suppose  it  to  have  been  the  route  by  which 
Agricola  led  his  troops  into  Strathearn  prior  to  their 
encampment  at  Ardoch.  Towards  its  foot,  3;^  miles  S 
by  W  of  Auchterarder,  stands  a  plain  mansion  of  1624, 
Gleneagles  House.  The  estate  belonged  to  the  Hal- 
danes  from  the  12th  century  till  1799,  when  it  devolved 
on  Admiral  Lord  Duncan,  whose  great-grandson,  third 
Earl  of  C.AJIPEEDOWN,  holds  7122  acres  in  Perthshire, 
valued  at  £3479  per  saumxi.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.   39,  1869. 

Glenearn,  an  estate,  with  a  modern  mansion,  in  the 
detached  section  of  Dron  parish,  SE  Perthshire,  2J 
miles  SW  of  Bridge  of  Earn.  It  was  purchased  about 
1873  from  Charles  Jlaclean,  Esq.,  by  AVilliam  Ross, 
Esq. ,  who  holds  640  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £837 
per  annum. 

Gleneffock.     See  Effock  Water. 

Glenelchaig.    See  Elchaig. 

Glenelg,  a  coast  village  and  parish  of  NW  Inverness- 
shire.  The  village  stands  on  a  small  bay  of  its  own 
name  at  the  head  of  Sleat  Sound,  3  miles  SSE  of  Kyle- 
Rhea  ferry,  43  WNW  of  Invergarry,  and  7  S  by  W  of 
Lochalsh,  under  which  it  has  a  post  office.  Occupying 
a  picturesque  site  in  the  mouth  of  a  grand  glen,  it  com- 
prises a  principal  street  of  slated  houses,  and  numerous 
thatched  cottages ;  is  embellished  with  interspersed 
trees  and  adjacent  jilantatiou  ;  contains  a  good  inn  and 
some  well-stocked  shops  ;  enjoys  facility  of  communica- 


GLENELG 

tion  by  West  Coast  steamers,  touching  at  its  new  quay 
of  1881  ;  and  has  fairs  on  tlie  Fridays  after  tlie  last 
Tuesday  of  May  and  the  third  Tuesdays  of  August  and 
September.  It  gave,  in  1835,  the  title  of  Baron,  in  the 
peeratre  of  the  United  Kingdom,  to  the  distinguished 
statesman,  Charles  Grant  (1778-1866).  Glenelg  Bay, 
of  small  extent,  lies  open  to  the  W,  yet  affords  good 
anchorage  in  easterly  winds  ;  but  a  better  harbour  on 
the  Skyo  side  of  the  Sound,  IJ  mile  distant,  affords 
shelter  in  all  winds.  A  fortified  barrack,  erected  in 
1722  at  Bernera,  near  Glenelg  village,  was  commonly 
occupied  by  one  or  two  companies  of  infantry  till  1745, 
and  is  now  a  ruin.  A  I'oad  goes  from  the  village  east- 
wards towards  Glenshiel,  passes  over  the  mountain  Mam- 
Eattachan,  and  commands  a  very  grand  view ;  another 
goes  south-eastward  to  the  head  of  Loch  Hourn,  leads 
off  thence  towards  Inverness,  strikes  towards  the  Pass 
of  CoKKYVAELiGAN  (2000  feet),  and  there  commands  a 
most  impressive  view. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  village  of  Arnisdale 
and  the  hamlet  of  Inverie,  comprises  the  three  districts 
of  Glenelg  proper,  Knoydart,  and  North  Morar.  It  is 
bounded  NE  and  E  by  a  lofty  water-shed  which  divides 
it  from  Ross-shire ;  SE  and  S  by  lofty  water-sheds,  which 
divide  it  from  the  heads  of  Glengarry  and  Glenarchaig 
in  Lochaber  ;  SW  by  Loch  Morar,  which  divides  it  from 
Arasaig  in  Ardnamurchan  ;  and  NW  by  Sleat  Sound, 
which  divides  it  from  Skye.  Its  utmost  length,  from 
NE  to  SW,  is  22  miles ;  its  utmost  breadth  in  the 
opposite  direction  is  15  miles  ;  and  its  land  area  is 
134,778  acres.  The  coast,  along  Sleat  Sound,  is  about 
co-extensive  both  with  that  sound  and  with  the  greatest 
length  of  the  parish  ;  and,  except  in  Glenelg  Bay,  is 
generally  high  and  rocky.  Loch  Hourn  divides  Glenelg 
proper  from  Knoydart ;  Loch  Nevis  divides  Knoydart 
from  Morar ;  and  both  lochs  have  strikingly  grand 
scenery,  and  contain  good  anchoring  ground,  but  they, 
and  the  districts  of  Knoydart  and  Morar,  are  separately 
noticed.  Fresh-water  lakes  are  numerous,  and  well 
supplied  with  trout ;  but  none  challenge  notice  for 
either  extent  or  character.  Glenelg  proper  comprises 
two  glens,  Glenmore  and  Glenbeg,  each  watered  by  a 
streamlet  of  its  own,  and  the  former  extends  north-west- 
ward to  Glenelg  Bay,  has  few  or  no  trees  except  at  the 
foot,  and  is  clothed  with  green  pasture  to  the  very 
summit  of  its  hill-screens  ;  while  the  latter  has  been 
separately  noticed.  The  inhabitants,  in  all  the  dis- 
tricts, are  mostly  congregated  on  the  coasts.  The  prin- 
cipal rocks  are  gneiss,  mica  slate,  cjuartzite,  hornblende 
slate,  granite,  syenite,  serpentine,  and  limestone.  The 
serpentine  includes  veins  of  asbestos  and  amianthus ; 
the  limestone  occurs  in  beds,  "but  is  not  worked  ;  and 
the  other  rocks  contain  actinolite,  tremolite,  and  some 
other  rare  minerals.  The  soil,  in  the  arable  parts  of 
Glenelg  proper,  is  loamy  and  fertile ;  but  in  those  of 
Knoydart,  is  much  lighter.  About  1000  acres  are 
regularly  or  occasionally  in  tillage  ;  about  2000  acres 
are  under  wood  ;  and  a  very  large  area  is  richly  pastoral 
for  either  black  cattle  or  sheep.  The  only  mansion  is 
Inverie  ;  the  principal  large  farm-houses  are  Elian- 
reach,  Beolary,  and  Barrisdale ;  and  the  chief  antiquities 
are  two  Scandinavian  dunes  in  Glenbeg,  and  vestiges  of 
two  others  in  Glenmore.  Three  proprietors  bold  each 
an  annual  value  of  more,  and  2  of  less,  than  £500.  In 
the  presbytery  of  Lochcarron  and  synod  of  Glenelg,  this 
parish  is  divided  ecclesiastically  into  Glenelg  and  Knoy- 
dart, the  former  a  living  worth  £346.  Its  church  con- 
tains 400  sittings  ;  and  in  the  churchyard  is  a  granite 
obelisk,  erected  in  1876  to  the  memory  of  the  Rev.  John 
Macrae,  for  35  years  parish  minister.  Other  places  of 
worship  are  Knoydart  quoad  sacra  church,  Glenelg  Free 
church,  and  two  Roman  Catholic  churches — Knoydart 
(1850  ;  300  sittings)  and  Bracara  (1837  ;  250  sittings). 
Six  public  schools — Arnisdale,  Brinacory,  Earir,  Glas- 
nacardock,  Glenelg,  and  Inverie — with  total  accommo- 
dation for  271  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attend- 
ance of  167,  and  grants  amounting  to  £229,  18s.  6d. 
Valuation  (1860)  £7268,  (1882)  £10,802,  8s.  9d.,  of 
which  £5031  was  held  by  Evan  Baillie,  Esq.  of  Doch- 
€9 


GLENFARQTJHAR 

four.  Pop.  of  civil  parish  (1801)  2834,  (1831)  2874, 
(1861)  1843,  (1871)  1653,  (1881)  1601,  of  whom  1453 
were  Gaelic-speaking;  of  ecclesiastical  parish  (1871) 
1154,  (1881)  1164  ;  of  registration  district  (1881)  658. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  71,  72,  61,  62,  1878-83. 

The  synod  of  Glenelg,  meeting  at  Kyleakin  on  the 
second  Wednesday  of  July,  comprises  the  presbyteries 
of  Lochcarron,  Abertarff,  Skye,  Uist,  and  Lewis.  Pop. 
(1871)  88,211,  (1881)  89,189,  of  whom  1534  were  com- 
municants of  the  Church  of  Scotland  in  1878. — There  is 
also  a  Free  Church  synod  of  Glenelg,  which,  meeting 
alternately  at  Lochalsh  and  Portree  on  the  second 
Wednesday  of  April,  comprises  the  presbyteries  of 
Lochcarron,  Abertarfi',  Skye  and  Uist,  and  Lewis,  39 
of  whose  48  churches  had  22,553  members  and  ad- 
herents in  1881. 

Glenennich,  an  alpine  glen  in  the  Rothiemnrchus 
portion  of  Duthil  parish,  E  Inverness-shire.  Lying 
among  the  central  Grampians,  it  takes  down  a  stream 
10|  miles  northward  from  Loch  Ennich  to  the  Spey  at 
Craigellachie,  and  affords,  throughout  much  of  its  ex- 
tent, good  pasturage  for  sheep. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  64,  74, 
1874-77. 

Glenerichdie.    See  EnicHDiE. 

Glenericht  House,  a  mansion  in  Rattray  parish,  NE 
Perthshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Ericht,  5  miles  NNW 
of  Blairgowrie.  Its  owner,  Alexander  D.  Griraond, 
Esq.,  holds  1917  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1149 
per  annum.     See  Ertcht. 

Glenesbuig,  a  wild  sequestered  glen  of  the  island  of 
Arran,  Buteshire,  descending  2J  miles  south-westward 
to  the  head  of  the  valley  of  Machrie  Water. 

Glenesk,  the  basin  of  the  upper  or  mountain  reaches 
of  the  North  EsK  river,  on  the  northern  border  of  For- 
farshire. It  comprehends  all  Lochlee  parish  and  part 
of  Edzell ;  comprises  the  convergent  glens  of  Glenmark 
and  Gleneffock,  together  with  a  number  of  small  lateral 
glens  ;  and  concentrates  into  one  glen  on  the  eastern 
border  of  Lochlee  parish,  3|  miles  S  of  Mount  Battock. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  66,  1871. 

Glenessland  Bum,  a  rivulet  of  Dunscore  parish, 
Dumfriesshire,  running  4J  miles  east-north-eastward  to 
Cairn  Water. 

Glenetive  House,  a  recent  mansion  in  Ardchattan 
parish,  Argyllshire,  towards  the  foot  of  the  glen  of  the 
river  Etive,  14  miles  NNE  of  Taynuilt  station.  It  is 
the  Scottish  seat  of  Edward  Seymour  Greaves,  Esq. 
(b.  1849;  sue.  1879),  who  holds  10,000  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £791  per  annum.     Near  it  is  a  public  school. 

Glenfalloch  (Gael,  gleann-falaich,  '  valley  of  conceal- 
ment '),  a  glen  of  Killin  parish,  Perthshire,  and  Arro- 
char  parish,  Dumbartonshire.  It  is  traversed  by  the 
Falloch,  which,  rising  on  Ben-a-Cheoin  at  an  altitude 
of  2600  feet,  winds  llj  miles  north-by-westward  and 
south-south-westward,  till  it  falls  into  the  head  of  Loch 
Lomond  (23  feet)  at  Ardlui.  Glenfalloch  House,  near 
the  stream's  right  bank,  2J  miles  N  of  Ardlui  and  7  SW 
of  Crianlarich  station,  belongs  to  the  Earl  of  Breadal- 
bane  ;  J  mile  lower  down  is  Inverarnan  Hotel.  On  12 
Sept.  1803,  Wordsworth  and  his  sister,  having  walked 
up  Loch  Lomond  from  Inversnaid  to  Ardlui,  thence 
crossed  over  the  hills  into  Glengyle  ;  and  Dorothy  writes 
in  her  Journal — '  It  is  one  of  those  moments  which  I 
shall  not  easily  forget,  when  at  that  point  from  which 
a  step  or  two  would  have  carried  us  out  of  sight  of  the 
green  fields  of  Glenfalloch,  being  at  a  great  height  on 
the  mountain,  we  sate  down,  and  heard,  as  if  from  the 
heart  of  the  earth,  the  sound  of  torrents  ascending  out 
of  the  long  hollow  glen.  To  the  eye  all  was  motionless, 
a  perfect  stillness.  The  noise  of  waters  did  not  appear 
to  come  this  way  or  that,  from  any  particular  quarter  :  it 
was  everywhere,  almost,  one  might  say,  as  if  "exhaled" 
through  the  whole  surface  of  the  green  earth.  Glen- 
falloch, Coleridge  has  since  told  me,  signifies  the  Hidden 
Vale  ;  hut  William  says,  if  we  were  to  name  it  from  our 
recollections  of  that  time,  we  should  call  it  the  Vale  of 
Awful  Sound. '—0?-d.  Sur.,  shs.  46,  38,  1872-71. 

Glenfarg.     See  Faeg. 

Glenfarquhar.     See  Foedoun. 

185 


GLENFEAENACH 

Glenfeamach,  a  -verdant  glen  in  the  E  of  Moulin 
parish,  Perthshire,  traversed  by  the  AUt  Fearnach, 
which,  rising  at  an  altitude  of  2250  feet,  runs  lOJ  miles 
south-south-eastward,  till,  after  a  descent  of  2000  feet,  it 
unites  at  Enoclidhu  hamlet  with  the  AUt  Doire  to  form 
Airdle  Water.— OrcZ.  Sur.,  shs.  64,  55,  56,  1869-74. 

Glenfender.    See  Fendee. 

Glenfeochan,  an  estate,  with  a  modern  mansion,  in 
Eilmore  and  Kilbride  parish,  Argyllshire,  at  the  head 
of  Locli  Feochan,  4J  miles  SSE  of  Oban.  Its  owner, 
Thomas  William  Murray-Allan,  Esq.  (b.  1828),  holds 
10,000  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1525  per  annum. 
A  saurian -shaped  mound  was  excavated  here  by  Mr 
John  S.  Phene  in  1871,  when  the  cairn-formed  head 
was  found  to  enshrine  a  megalithic  chamber,  containing 
burned  bones,  charcoal,  a  flint  instrument,  and  burned 
hazel-nuts. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  45,  1876. 

Glenfemess,  a  mansion  in  Ardclach  parish,  Wairn- 
shire,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  winding  Findhorn,  8J 
miles  SW  of  Duniphail  station.  Founded  in  1837  by 
Sir  James  Montgomery  Cuninghame,  Bart.,  it  stands 
amid  finely-wooded  grounds,  and  is  now  the  seat  of 
Alexander  Leslie-Leven,  twelfth  Earl  of  Leven  since 
M41,  and  ninth  of  Melville  since  1690  (b.  1817  ;  sue. 
1876),  who  holds  7805  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at 
£1317  per  annum.— Orci.  Sur.,  sh.  84,  1876. 

Glenfernisdale,  a  glen  in  Kingussie  and  Insch  parish, 
Badenocli,  Inverness-sbire,  traversed  by  a  stream  that, 
issuing  from  Loch  Etteridge  (2J  x  1  furl.  ;  1000  feet), 
runs  6|  miles  north-north-eastward  till,  after  a  descent 
of  230  feet,  it  falls  into  the  Spey  at  a  point  1  mile  SSW 
of  Kingussie  village.  The  old  military  road,  which  is 
still  the  best  for  pedestrians,  deflects  from  Gleutruim  at 
Etteridge  Bridge,  and  goes  down  Glenfernisdale  to  the 
Spey.— OrcZ.  Sur.,  sh.  64,  1874. 

Glenfeshie.     See  Feshie  and  Alvie. 

Glenfiag.     See  Fiag. 

Glenfiddich  Lodge,  a  shooting-box  of  the  Duke  of 
Richmond  and  Gordon  in  Mortlach  parish,  Banfl'shire, 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Fiddich,  6  miles  S  of  Dulftown. 

Glenfinart,  a  glen  in  the  N  of  the  Kilmun  portion  of 
Dunoon  and  Kilmun  parish,  Cowal,  Argyllshire.  It  is 
traversed  by  the  Finart,  which,  rising  on  Ben  Bhreac  at 
an  altitude  of  1750  feet,  runs  4f  miles  south-eastward 
till  it  falls  into  Loch  Long  at  a  point  5  furlongs  N  of 
Akdentinnt.  Over  its  lower  and  finely-wooded  half  it 
takes  down  the  road  from  Wliistlefield  Inn  on  Loch 
Eck  ;  and  in  its  mouth,  4i  miles  N  by  W  of  Blairmore, 
is  Glenfinart  House,  a  Tudor  edifice  of  the  first  half  of 
the  present  century.  Its  owner.  Gen.  Sir  John  Douglas, 
G.C.B.  (b.  1817),  holds  15,579  acres  in  the  shire,  valued 
at£2590per  annum.— Or(Z.  Sur.,  sh.  37,  1876. 

Glenfinglas  (Gael.  gleann-fio7in-glas,  '  grey  white  val- 
ley '),  a  rocky  glen  in  Callander  parish,  SW  Perthshire, 
traversed  by  Turk  rivulet,  which,  rising  at  an  altitude  of 
2250  feet  close  to  the  Balquhidder  border,  runs  6|  miles 
south-south-eastward,  till,  after  a  descent  of  1980  feet, 
it  falls  into  the  Dubh  Abhainn  at  Bridge  of  Turk,  ^  mile 
below  the  foot  of  Loch  Achray  and  6J  miles  W  by  S  of 
Callander  town.  An  ancient  deer-foi-est  of  the  Scottish 
kings,  Glenfinglas  retains  vestiges  of  having  once  been 
clothed  with  wood  ;  and  it  now  belongs  to  the  Earl  of 
Moray.  Its  flanks  include  much  savage  alpine  scenery, 
yet  are  largely  relieved  by  wood  and  verdure  ;  and  much 
of  its  bottom  is  under  cultivation.  The  Turk  is  fed,  in 
its  upper  course,  by  tumultuous  torrents  ;  passes  along 
the  middle  parts  as  a  peaceful,  meandering  stream  ;  but 
lower  down  suddenly  plunges  into  a  profound  chasm,  to 
run  some  distance  underground,  emerge  next  towards  a 
gorge  in  the  glen,  and  then  make  a  long  romantic 
■waterfall.  The  hermit  Brian  performed,  beneath  this 
waterfall,  the  '  taghairm '  that  mysteriously  foreshadowed 
the  fate  of  Roderick  Dhu  ;  and  an  outlaw  once  lived  in 
the  recess  behind  the  fall,  receiving  his  provisions  from 
a  woman  who  lowered  them  from  the  crest  of  the  over- 
hanging precipice,  and  procuring  water  for  himself  liy 
lowering  a  flagon  into  the  pool  below.  The  glen  is  also 
the  scene  of  a  wild  and  well-known  tale  that  bears  its 
name.— Oj-rf.  Sur.,  sh.  38,  1871. 
186 


GLENGARRY 

Glenfinnan.    See  Finnan. 

Glenfintaig,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Kilmonivaig 
parish.  Inverness-shire,  towards  the  foot  of  Glengloy, 
19  miles  NE  of  Fort  William. 

Glenfishie.     See  Feshie  and  Alvie. 

Glenforsa  House,  a  modern  mansion  in  Torosay  parish. 
Mull  island,  Argyllshire,  3i  miles  ESE  of  Aros.  It  is 
the  seat  of  Lieut. -Col.  Charles  Greenhill-Gardyne  of 
Finavon  (b.  1831  ;  sue.  1867),  who  holds  20,000  acres 
in  Argyllshire  and  4078  in  Forfarshire,  valued  at  £1908 
and  £4273  per  annum.     See  For.SA. 

Glenfoudland.     See  Foudland  and  Insoh. 

Glenfruin.     See  Fexjin. 

Glenfyne.     See  Fyne. 

Glengaber  Bum,  a  rivulet  in  the  Megget  section  of 
Lyne  parish,  S  Peeblesshire,  rising  at  an  altitude  of 
1800  feet,  and  running  2§  miles  south-by-eastward,  till, 
after  a  descent  of  910  feet,  it  falls  into  Megget  Water, 
at  a  point  1|  mile  W  of  St  Mary's  Loch.  It  is  flanked, 
on  the  left  side,  by  Deer  Law  (2065  feet)  and  Broomy 
Law(1750) ;  anditretainsfaint  traces  of  ancient  searches 
for  gold,  said  to  have  not  been  altogether  unsuccessful. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  16,  1864. 

Glengairn,  a  glen,  an  ancient  quoad  civilia  parish, 
and  a  modern  quoad  sacra  parish,  in  Aberdeenshire. 
The  glen,  commencing  among  the  Cairngorm  Mountains, 
in  the  N  of  Crathie  and  Braemar  parish,  adjacent  to 
Banffshire,  takes  down  the  Gaikn  20  miles  east-south- 
eastward to  the  river  Dee,  in  Glenmuick  parish.  If  mile 
NW  of  Ballater.  The  ancient  quoad  civilia  parish  lay 
chiefly  along  both  banks  of  the  lower  half  of  the  Gairn's 
course,  but  included  also  a  small  tract,  called  Strath- 
girnie,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Dee,  and  is  now  incor- 
porated with  Glenmuick  and  TuUich.  Its  church,  which 
stood  below  the  bridge  of  Gairn,  was  dedicated  to  St 
Mungo  or  Eentigern,  by  whom  it  was  probably  founded 
in  the  latter  half  of  the  6th  century.  The  modern  quoad 
sacra  parish  consists  mainly  of  the  ancient  quoad  civilia 
parish,  but  includes  part  of  Crathie.  It  is  in  the  pres- 
bytery of  Kincardine  O'Neil  and  synod  of  Aberdeen  ; 
the  minister's  stipend  is  £120.  Its  church  stands  6 
miles  NW  of  the  post-town  Ballater,  2  miles  nearer 
which  is  the  Roman  Catholic  church  of  St  Mary  Immacu- 
late (1868  ;  200  sittings).  There  is  also  a  public  school. 
Pop.  (1871)  588,  (1881)  454,  of  whom  17  were  in  Crathie 
parish  and  437  in  Glenmuick. — Ord.  Sior.,  shs.  75,  65, 
1876-70. 

Glengap  Bum.     See  Twynholm. 

Glengamock,  a  village  and  a  ruined  castle  in  Kilbir- 
nie  and  Dairy  parishes,  Ayrshire.  The  village  stands 
at  the  foot  of  Kilbirnie  Loch,  and  5  furlongs  NE  of  Kil- 
birnie  station  on  the  Glasgow  and  South-Western  rail- 
way, this  being  2|  miles  NNE  of  Dairy  Junction. 
Founded  about  1844  in  connection  with  Glengarnock 
Iron-works,  it  has  a  post  office,  with  money  order, 
savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  departments,  a  mission 
station  of  the  Church  of  Scotland,  a  U. P.  church  (1870), 
a  public  school,  a  wincey  factory,  and  large  iron-works. 
The  last,  occupying  a  remarkably  eligible  site,  were 
planned  and  erected  with  much  skill  and  taste,  and 
include  14  furnaces.  Glengarnock  Castle,  crowning  a 
precipitous  knoll  on  the  left  bank  of  the  winding  Gar- 
nock,  2  miles  N  by  W  of  Kilbirnie  village,  appears  to 
have  been  a  stately  pile  of  high  antiquity.  The  barony, 
of  Avhich  it  was  the  seat,  was  held  by  Riddels  till  the 
middle  of  the  13th,  and  by  Cunninghams  till  the  be- 
ginning of  the  17th,  century.  Since  1680  it  has  formed 
a  valuable  portion  of  the  Kilbirnie  property.  Pop.  of 
village  (1871)  1228,  (1881)  1276,  of  whom  406  were  in 
Dairy  parish.— OrtZ.  S^lr.,  sh.  22,  1865. 

Glengarr.     See  Gakry,  Auchtergaven,  Perthshire. 

Glengarrel,  the  glen  of  Gaevald  Water,  in  Eskdale- 
muir  parish,  Dumfriesshire. 

Glengarry,  a  beautiful  Highland  glen  in  Kilmonivaig 
parish,  W  Inverness-shire,  traversed  by  the  river  G-AREY, 
winding  18 J  miles  eastward,  out  of  Loch  Quoich,  and 
through  Loch  Garry,  till  it  falls  into  Loch  Oich  at 
Invergarry,  7A  miles  SW  of  Fort  Augustus.  From  the 
beginning  of  the  16th  century  Glengarry  was  held  by 


GLENGARRY 

the  Macdonnells,  the  last  of  whose  chiefs,  Col.  Alexan- 
der RaiiaUlson  Macdonnell,  maintained  to  the  day  of  his 
death  (1S28)  the  style  of  living  of  his  ancestors,  and  is 
deemed  the  prototype  of  Fergus  Mac  Ivor  in  Wavcrley. 
His  son  was  compelled  to  dispose  of  Glengarry  to  the 
Marquis  of  Huntly,  and  emigrated  to  America.  By  the 
marquis  it  was  resold  in  1840  for  £91,000  to  Lord  Ward 
(afterwards  Earl  of  Dudley),  and  by  him  in  1860  for 
£120,000  to  the  late  Edward  EUice,  Esq.  of  Glenquoich 
(ISIO-SO),  who  sat  as  Liberal  member  for  the  St 
Andrews  burghs  from  1837  till  his  death,  and  who  held 
99,545  acres  in  Inverness-shire,  valued  at  £6721  per 
annum.  This  acreage  includes  the  25, 000  acres  of  Glen- 
quoich deer  forest,  to  the  N  of  Loch  QuoiOH  and  the 
upper  waters  of  the  Garry.  Let  for  £1800  a  year  to 
Michael  Arthur  Bass,  Esq.,  M.P.  for  Stafford  (b.  1837), 
Glenquoich  forest  was  estimated  in  1880  to  contain 
between  800  and  900  stags  and  1700  hinds.  The  seats  of 
the  Glengarry  property,  old  and  new,  are  noticed  under 
iNVERGAPatY.  A  quoad  sacra  parish  of  Glengarry  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  Abertarff  and  synod  of  Glenelg  ;  the 
minister's  stipend  is  £120.  Its  church,  7|  miles  AV  of 
Invergarry,  is  an  Early  English  edifice  of  1865.  Two 
public  schools,  Invergarry  and  Inshlaggan,  with  respec- 
tive accommodation  for  112  and  40  children,  had  (1881) 
an  average  attendance  of  44  and  11,  and  grants  of  £50 
and  £21,  16s.  Pop.  of  q.  s.  parish  (1871)  692,  (1881) 
627,  of  whom  469  were  Gaelic-speaking,  and  74  were  in 
Boleskine  and  Abertarff  parish.  — Ord.  Stir. ,  shs.  62,  63, 
1875-73. 

Glengarry.     See  G.\rry,  Perthshire. 

Glengavel  Water,  a  stream  in  the  SW  of  Avondale 
parish,  Lanarkshire,  running  5  miles  north-north-west- 
ward among  wild  uplands,  till  it  falls  into  the  river 
Avon  at  a  point  5  a  miles  SW  of  Strathaven. — Orel.  Sm:, 
sh.  23;  1865. 

Glengaw  Bum.     See  Aye. 

Glengloy,  a  deep  mountain  glen  in  Kilmonivaig 
parish,  Inverness-shire.  From  a  col  (1172  feet)  it  ex- 
tends 7  miles  south-westward  between  Glenroy  and  the 
Great  Glen,  parallel  to  both,  and  then,  deflecting  sud- 
denly to  a  right  angle  with  its  former  direction,  de- 
scends If  mile  northward  to  the  Great  Glen  at  Loch 
Lochy,  at  a  point  3i  miles  NE  of  the  loch's  foot.  A 
terrace  line  runs  along  the  glen's  flank  at  an  elevation 
of  from  1156  to  1173  feet  above  sea-level,  being  12  feet 
higher  than  the  highest  of  the  ancient  water  margins  or 
'  parallel  roads '  of  Glenroy. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  63,  62, 
1873-75. 

GlengoUie,  a  glen  in  the  S  of  Durness  parish,  Suther- 
land, traversed  by  a  stream  that,  rising  at  an  altitude  of 
1270  feet,  winds  7J  miles  south -south-eastward  till,  after 
a  descent  of  1176  feet,  it  unites  with  two  other  streams, 
at  the  head  of  Strathmore,  to  form  the  river  Hope.  It 
is  sung  by  the  poet  Donn  as  a  favourite  hunting-ground. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  114,  109,  1880. 

Glengonner  Water,  a  stream  of  Crawford  parish,  SE 
Lanarkshire,  rising  close  to  the  Dumfriesshire  border  at 
an  altitude  of  1480  feet  above  sea-level,  and  running  7 
miles  north-north-eastward,  till  it  falls  into  the  Clyde, 
at  a  point  5  furlongs  S  of  Abington,  after  a  total  de- 
scent of  665  feet.  In  the  first  mUe  of  its  course  it  flows 
through  Leadhill  village,  and  over  the  last  2i  miles  it 
traces  the  Crawfordjohn  border.  Its  mineral  wealth  is 
noticed  under  Leadhills. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  15,  1864. 

Glengulbin,  an  alpine  glen  of  Kilmonivaig  and  Laggan 
parishes,  in  the  E  of  Lochaber,  Inveniess-shire,  traversed 
by  a  stream  which  first,  as  the  Amhainn  Ossian,  winds 
3i  miles  northward  from  Loch  O.ssian  (IJ  mile  x  3 
fmi.  ;  1269  feet)  to  Loch  Gulbin  (7  x  3^  furl  ;  1155 
feet),  and  thence,  as  the  Amhainn  Ghuilbinn,  runs  6| 
miles  northward  till,  after  a  total  descent  of  650  feet, 
it  falls  into  the  Spean  at  a  point  IJ  mile  below  that 
river's  efllux  from  Loeh  Laggan. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  54, 
63,  1873. 

Glengyle,  a  glen  on  the  mutual  border  of  Perthshire 
and  Stirlingshire.  Commencing  near  the  meeting-point 
with  Dumbartonshire,  at  an  altitude  of  1750  feet,  it 
descends  33  miles  south-eastward  to  the  head  of  Loch 


GLENISLA 

Katrine  (364  feet) ;  is  overhung  by  mountains  over  2000 
feet  high  ;  and  from  head  to  foot  is  traversed  by  Glengyle 
Water.  It  was  anciently  a  possession  of  the  Macgregors, 
and  contains  a  ruined  iovtalice.—Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  46,  38, 
1872-71. 

Glenhalmadale,  a  glen  of  Kilbride  parish,  in  the  N  of 
Arran,  Buteshire,  winding  2J  miles  north-north-west- 
ward to  Glenranza,  at  a  point  5  furlongs  SE  of  the 
head  of  Loch  Ranza.  It  is  traversed  by  the  road  from 
Sannox  to  Loch  Ranza,  and  contains  a  slate  quarry. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  21,  1870. 

Glenhead.     See  Lociiwinnocii. 

Glenhinisdale  or  Glenhinistil,  a  glen,  with  a  small 
village,  in  Snizort  parish.  Isle  of  Skye,  Inverness-shire. 

Glenholm.     See  Broughton. 

Gleniffer,  Braes  of,  a  range  of  trap  hills  in  the  S  of 
Abbey  parish,  Renfrewshire,  culminating  3^  miles  SSW 
of  Paisley  at  Sergeantlaw  (749  feet).  A  rough  and  un- 
dulating country — masses  of  grey  crag  interspersed  with 
whinny  knolls — they  embosom  the  reservoirs  of  the 
Paisley  Waterworks,  formed  in  1837-81,  and  are 
seamed  by  pretty  ravines,  each  with  its  brawling  stream. 
Upon  these  braes  the  poet  Tannahill,  who  wedded  them 
to  song,  was  wont  to  stray  on  week-day  evenings  or  on 
the  Sabbath  day,  musing  on  the  various  objects  of  beauty 
scattered  profusely  around.  Here  it  was  he  noted  '  the 
breer  wi' its  saft  faulding  blossom,' '  the  craw  flower's 
early  bell,'  and  '  the  birk  wi'  its  mantle  o'  green.'  Here 
he  now  listened  to  the  warble  of  the  mavis  rising  from 
'the  shades  of  SPANELY-shaw,'  now  gazed,  with  rapt 
delight,  on  the  gorgeous  scenery  of  the  lower  Clyde,  his 
native  town  in  the  foreground,  and  the  far-away  fron- 
tier Grampians. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  30,  1866. 

Gleniorsa,  the  glen  of  lorsa  Water,  on  the  W  side  of 
Arran,  Buteshire.  It  commences  at  Loch  na  Davie 
(1182  feet  above  sea-level),  3 J  miles  NW  of  the  summit 
of  Goatfell,  and  descends  8|  miles  south-south-westward 
to  the  N  side  of  Jlachrie  Bay.  Its  upper  parts  are 
grandly  mountainous  ;  its  right  side  is  joined  by  two 
ravines,  the  upper  one  embosoming  Loch  Tanna ;  and 
its  left  side  is  overhung  at  the  middle  of  Ben  Tarsuinn, 
and  receives  a  streamlet  issuing  from  Loch  Nuis. — Ord. 
Sur. ,  sh.  21,  1870. 

Glenisla,  a  hamlet  and  a  parish  of  NW  Forfarshire. 
The  hamlet,  Kirkton  of  Glenisla,  stands,  780  feet  above 
sea-level,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  Isla,  9  miles  N 
by  W  of  Alyth,  its  post-town  and  station.  It  has  a 
post  office,  and  a  sheep  and  cattle  fair  on  the  Thursday 
before  the  last  Wednesday  of  September. 

The  parish  is  bounded  NW  by  Crathie  and  Braemar  in 
Aberdeenshire,  NE  by  Cortachy  and  Clova,  E  by  Kirrie- 
muir and  Lintrathen,  S  and  SW  by  Alyth,  and  W  by 
Kirkmichael  in  Perthshire.  Its  utmost  length,  from 
N  by  W  to  S  by  E,  is  16j  miles ;  its  breadth  varies 
between  If  and  Bj  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  41,373|  acres, 
of  which  133  J  are  water.  The  river  IsLA,  rising  close  to 
the  Aberdeenshire  border  at  3100  feet  above  sea-level, 
winds  17J  miles  south-south-eastward  through  the  middle 
of  the  parish,  then  7  miles  south-eastward  along  the 
boundary  with  Lintrathen.  It  receives  in  its  progi-ess 
numerous  tidbutaries  from  the  lateral  glens,  and  exhibits 
a  wealth  of  romantic  scenery,  forming  the  magnificent 
cataracts  of  the  Reekie  Linn  and  the  Slugs  of  AcH- 
KANNIE.  Where  it  quits  the  parish,  at  its  south-eastern 
corner,  just  opposite  Airlie  Castle,  the  surface  declines 
to  less  than  400  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  to 
701  feet  near  Cotton,  1061  near  Dykehead,  1322  at  the 
Hill  of  Fernyhirst,  1605  at  *Knockton,  1487  at  Druim 
Dearg,  1275  at  Cairn  Hill,  1692  at  *Hare  Cairn,  2441  at 
*Mount  Blair,  2297  at  Duchray  Hill,  2429  at  Badanden 
Hill,  2325  at  Craig  Lair,  2649  at  ♦Monamenach,  3238 
at  *Creag  Leacach,  2954  at  Finalty  Hill,  and  3484  at 
*Cairn  na  Glasha,  where  asterisks  mark  those  summits 
that  culminate  right  on  the  borders  of  the  parish.  The 
rocks  are  variously  eruptive,  metamorphic,  Silurian,  and 
Devonian,  and  include  some  beds  of  limestone  which 
have  been  worked  ;  whilst  in  the  low  grounds  of  the 
southern  district  they  are  thickly  overlaid  by  strong, 
stiff,  argillaceous  driit.     The  soil  of  the  arable  lands 

187 


GLENKENS 


GLENLICHD 


ranges  from  moss  to  gravel,  and  from  stiff  clay  to  fine 
friable  loam  ;  but  barely  4000  acres  arc  in  tillage,  about 
500  being  under  wood.  Glenisla  House,  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Isla,  13  miles  NNW  of  Alyth,  is  a  plain  modern 
mansion,  a  seat  of  Sir  John-George-Smyth  Kinloch  of 
KiNLOOH,  second  Bart,  since  1873  (b.  1849  ;  sue.  1881), 
who  holds  1251  acres  in  Forfarshire  and  2854  in  Perth- 
shire, valued  at  £232  and  £5487  per  annum.  Of  old 
the  Ogilvies  were  sole  proprietors,  and  here  had  two  for- 
talices,  Forter  and  Newton,  the  former  of  which  still 
stands  in  a  state  of  ruin.  Now  4  proprietors  hold  each 
an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  12  of  between 
£100  and  £500,  9  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  7  of  from 
£20  to  £50.  Giving  off  its  southern  portion  to  the 
quoad  sacra  parish  of  Kilry,  Glenisla  is  in  the  presby- 
tery of  Meigle  and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns  ;  the 
living  is  worth  £194.  The  church,  erected  in  1821,  con- 
tains 500  sittings.  There  is  also  a  Free  church  ;  and 
three  public  schools — Glenisla,  Kilry,  and  Folda — with 
respective  accommodation  for  73,  68,  and  85  children, 
had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  29,  48,  and  21,  and 
grants  of  £43,  2s.  6d.,  £58,  2s.,  and  £33,  10s.  Valua- 
tion (1857)  £6823,  (1882)  £11,856,  12s.  lOd.  Pop.  of 
civil  parish  (1801)  996,  (1831)  1129,  (1861)  1008,  (1871) 
925,  (1881)  791;  of  ecclesiastical  parish  (1881)  464.— 
Orel  Sur.,  shs.  56,  65,  1870. 

Glenkens,  the  northern  district  of  Kii;kcudi!RIGHT- 
SHIRE.  Consisting  mainly  of  the  basin  of  the  river  Ken, 
it  comprehends  the  parishes  of  Carsphairn,  Dairy,  Balma- 
clellan,  and  Kells ;  and,  over  great  part  of  its  extent, 
is  celebrated  for  the  picturesqueness  of  its  mountain 
landscapes,  and  for  its  breeds  of  sheep  and  black  cattle. 

Glenketland,  a  glen  in  Ardchattan  parish,  Argyll- 
shire, descending  3  miles  west-north-westward  to  Glen- 
etive,  at  a  point  3  miles  NE  of  the  head  of  Loch  Etive. 

GlenkillBurn,  a  rivulet  of  Kirkmichael  parish,  Annan- 
dale,  Dumfriesshire,  rising  at  an  altitude  of  1255  feet, 
and  running  6|  miles  south-by-westward,  till,  after  a 
descent  of  9i0  feet,  it  falls  into  the  Water  of  Ae  at  a 
point  3  furlongs  SSW  of  Kirkmichael  church. — Orel. 
Sur.,  sh.  10,  1864. 

Glenkillock,  a  wooded  ravine  in  Abbey  and  Neilston 
parishes,  Renfrewshire,  intersecting  the  Fereneze  Hills, 
and  taking  down  Killock  Burn  east-south-eastward  to 
Levern  Water  nearlj-  opposite  Neilston  village.  It  con- 
tains three  waterfalls,  respectively  12,  12,  and  20  feet  in 
leap,  and  all  so  beautiful  as  to  have  been  pronounced  per- 
fect miniatures  of  the  three  falls  of  Clyde.  Both  glen 
and  burn  have  been  sung  bv  TannahiU  and  other  poets. 
—Orel.  Sur.,  shs.  30,  22,  1866-65. 

Glenkindie  (Gael,  gleanu-cinn-clubh,  '  valley  of  the 
dark  head'),  a  detached  section  of  Strathdon  parish,  W 
Aberdeenshire,  f  mile  E  by  N  of  the  nearest  point  of 
the  main  body,  and  11  miles  SSW  of  Rhynie.  Bounded 
NW  by  Cabrach,  NE  and  E  by  Kildrummy  and  Towie 
(detached),  S  by  Toi\-ie,  and  SAV  and  W  by  Glenbucket, 
it  has  an  utmost  length,  from  NNW  to  SSE,  of  4| 
miles  ;  an  utmost  width,  from  E  to  W,  of  2  miles  ;  and 
an  area  of  3557J  acres.  The  Don  winds  1§  mile 
east-south-eastward  along  all  the  southern  border,  and 
here  is  joined  by  the  clear-flowing  Kindie,  running  4J 
miles  south-south-eastward.  Along  the  Don  the  surface 
declines  to  750  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  to 
1151  at  Millhuie  Hill,  1831  at  Meikle  Forbridge  Hill, 
and  2073  at  Creag  an  Innean,  on  the  western,  and  to 
1857  at  Peat  Hill  on  the  eastern,  boundary.  Glenkindie 
contains  remains  of  five  pre-historic  '  earth-houses  ; ' 
and  it  gives  name  to  the  Aberdeenshire  version  of  the 
ballad  of  Gleislcyrion — 'Glenkindie,  he  was  a  harper 
gude,'  etc.  It  has  a  post  office  under  Aberdeen,  an  inn, 
and  fairs  on  27  May,  the  Saturday  of  September  after 
Banchory,  and  23  November.  Glenkindie  Plouse,  on 
the  Don's  left  bank,  is  a  commodious  old  mansion  with 
some  fine  trees,  a  seat  of  the  owner  of  Fkeefield. — Orel. 
Sur.,  sh.  75,  1876. 

Glenkinglas,  a  glen  in  Kilmorich  parish,  towards  the 

northern  extremity  of  Cowal  district,  Argyllshire.     It 

is  traversed  by  Kinglas  Water,  which,  rising  close  to  the 

Dumbartonshire  border  at  an  altitude  of  1100  feet,  runs 

188 


7  miles  south-westward  and  westward  to  the  E  sitle  of 
Loch  Fyne,  at  Cairndow,  1 J  mile  SW  of  the  head  of  the 
loch.  It  takes  down  the  Gleneroe  road  from  Loch 
Lomond  to  Inverary,  and  by  Dorothy  Wordswortli  is 
said  to  resemble  '  the  lower  part  of  Gleneroe,  though  it 
seemed  to  be  inferior  in  beauty.  But  when  we  were  out 
of  the  close  glen,  and  near  to  Cairndow,  the  moon 
showed  her  clear  face  in  the  sky,  revealing  a  spacious 
vale,  with  broad  Loch  Fyne  and  sloping  cornfields,  the 
hills  not  very  high.'  At  the  foot  of  Glenkinglas  are  the 
mansion  and  pleasure-grounds  of  Ardkinglas. — Ord. 
Sur.,  shs.  38,  -37,  1871-76. 

Glenkinglass,  a  glen  in  Ardchattan  parish,  Argyllshire, 
traversed  by  the  Kinglass,  a  capital  salmon  and  trout 
stream,  which,  rising  on  the  northern  skirt  of  Ben- 
NAK-AiGHEAN,  at  an  altitude  of  2200  feet  above  sea- 
level,  curves  12 J  miles  east-south-eastward,  south-west- 
ward, and  west-by-northward,  till  it  falls  into  Loch 
Etive,  at  a  point  5  miles  NE  by  N  of  Bunawe.  So 
winding  is  the  glen  that  little  of  it  can  be  seen  from 
Loch  Etive  ;  Inverkinglass,  at  its  foot,  had  once  an  iron 
smelting  furnace,  some  vestiges  of  which  still  exist. 
The  N  side  of  the  glen  is  bleak  and  rockj',  but  the  S 
yields  excellent  pasture.  A  pine  forest  covered  a  large 
portion  of  its  area,  but  was  cut  down  towards  the  middle 
of  last  century  to  serve  as  fuel  for  the  iron  furnace. — 
Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  45,  1876. 

Glenlaggan,  an  estate,  with  a  modern  mansion,  in 
Parton  parish,  Kircudbrightshire,  near  the  E  shore  of 
Loch  Ken,  7|  miles  NW  of  Castle-Douglas.  Its  owner, 
Patrick  Sanderson,  Esq.  (b.  1844;  sue.  1873),  holds 
1400  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £651  per  annum. 

Glenlair,  a  mansion  in  Parton  parish,  NE  Kirkcud- 
brightshire, romantically  situated  on  the  right  bank  of 
Urr  Water,  7  miles  N  by  W  of  Castle-Douglas.  It  was 
the  seat  of  the  distinguished  physicist,  Prof.  James 
Clerk-Maxwell  (1831-79),  who  held  1974  acres  in  Kirk- 
cudbright and  Dumfries  shires,  valued  at  £1299  per 
annum.— 0;T?.  Sur.,  sh.  9,  1S63. 

Glenlatterach,  a  glen  on  the  mutual  border  of  Dallas 
and  Birnie  parishes,  Elginshire.  It  is  traversed  by  the 
Angry  or  Lennoc  Burn,  flowing  4  miles  northward  to 
the  Lossie,  and  forming,  at  a  point  IJ  mile  above  its 
mouth,  a  waterfall  50  feet  high,  the  Ess  of  Glenlatterach. 
—Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  85,  1876. 

Glenlean,  a  glen  in  Dunoon  parish,  Cowal,  Argyll- 
shire, descending  from  a  '  col '  (406  feet)  4^  miles  east- 
south-eastward  to  Dalinlongart,  near  the  head  of  Holy 
Loch.  Traversed  by  a  road  from  Sandbank  and  Kilmun 
to  the  head  of  Loch  Striven,  it  commands  from  the 
shoulders  and  summits  of  its  hill-screens  a  splendid 
view,  and  it  contains  the  hamlet  of  Claohaig.  Lower 
down,  towards  its  foot,  IJ  mile  NW  of  Sandbank,  Bal- 
lochyle  House  stands  prettily  embosomed  among  trees, 
at  the  southern  base  of  Balloch3de  Hill  (1253  feet).  Its  J 
owner,  Maclver  Forbes  Morison  Campbell  (b.  1867), 
holds  3613  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £550  per  annum. 
—Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  29,  1873. 

Glenlednock,  a  deep-cut  glen  of  Comrie  parish,  Perth- 
shire, traversed  by  the  Lednock,  which,  rising  at  an  alti- 
tude of  1980  feet  between  Ruadh  Bheiil  (2237)  and  Creag 
Uigeach  (2840),  hurries  11  miles  south-eastward  to  the 
Earn  at  Comrie  village.  It  has  a  total  descent  of  nearly 
1800  feet,  and  forms  a  number  of  cataracts,  one  of  which 
falls  into  the  Devil's  Cauldron. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  47, 
1869. 

Glenlee,  a  mansion  in  Kells  parish,  NE  Kirkcud- 
brightsliire,  near  the  right  bank  of  the  Ken,  3  miles 
NW  of  New  Galloway.  Much  enlarged  in  1822,  it  stands 
in  a  level  park,  adorned  with  fine  old  oaks,  and  was 
the  seat  of  the  two  eminent  judges,  father  and  son.  Sir 
Thomas  Miller  (1717-89)  and  Sir  William  (1755-1846), 
who  both  bore  the  title  of  Lord  Glenlee,  and  who  were 
ancestors  of  Sir  William  Miller  of  Barskimming.  The 
present  proprietor  of  Glenlee,  George  Maxwell,  Esq.  (b. 
1856  ;  sue.  1866),  holds  15,090  acres  in  the  shire,  valued 
at  £2736  per  o.mmm.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  9,  1863. 

Glenlichd,  a  glen  in  Glenshiel  parish,  SW  Ross-shire, 
descending,  from  an  altitude  of  180  feet  above  sea-level, 


GLENLIVET 

5J  miles  west-north-westward  to  the  head  of  salt  water 
Loch  Duich.  It  takes  down  the  clear-flowing  (^roe,  and  is 
flanked  on  the  left  hand  bj'  Benmore  (3505  feet),  on  the 
right  by  Ben  Attow  {33S3).—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  72,  1880. 
Glenlivet  (Gael.  gleann-Uobh-aite,  '  valley  of  the 
smooth  place'),  the  southern  portion  of  Inveraven 
parish,  S  Banffshire,  consisting  of  the  basin  of  Livet 
Water,  a  stream  that  is  formed  by  the  confluence  of  Suie 
and  Kymah  Burns,  both  rising  at  an  altitude  of  2300 
feet  above  sea-level,  and  winding — the  former  3§  miles 
southward,  and  the  latter  5J  miles  north-by-westward. 
From  the  point  of  their  union  (1100  feet),  the  Livet 
itself  flows  8|  miles  west-north-westward  and  north- 
north-westward,  till  it  falls  into  the  Aven  at  Drumin 
(700  feet),  5  miles  S  of  Ballindalloch  station.  Its  prin- 
cipal affluents  are  Ckombie  Water  on  the  left,  and  the 
Burn  of  Teevie  on  the  right ;  its  waters  contain  abund- 
ance of  trout,  with  occasional  salmon  and  grilse  ;  and 
its  basin  is  rimmed  by  lines  of  mountain  watershed, 
whose  principal  summits  are  Ben  Rinnes  (2755  feet), 
Corryhabbie  (2563),  Carn  Mor  (2636),  Cam  Dulack 
(2156),  and  Carn  Daimh  (1795).  Glenlivet  post  office, 
with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  depart- 
ments, stands  5J  miles  S  by  E  of  Ballindalloch  ;  and 
there  are  also  a  branch  of  the  North  of  Scotland  Bank, 
Glenlivet  quoad  sacra  church,  and  the  famous  Glenlivet 
distillery  of  Messrs  G.  &  J.  G.  Smith.  At  the  close  of 
last  and  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  whisky  of 
exquisite  flavour  was  made  in  full}'  200  illicit  stills,  or  on 
almost  every  burn  among  the  hills.  The  Distillery  Act 
of  1824  changed  all  this  ;  and  Glenlivet's  smuggling 
bothies  gave  place  to  five  legal  distilleries — a  number 
now  reduced  to  only  one.  Fairs  fall  on  the  daj'  before  the 
third  Thursday  of  May,  and  before  the  fourth  Thursday 
of  October,  April,  and  the  six  intervening  months.  An 
ancient  barony,  Glenlivet  belongs  now  to  the  Duke  of 
Richmond  and  Gordon,  and  gives  the  title  of  Baron  in  the 
peerage  of  Scotland  to  the  Marquis  of  Huntly.  The  quoad 
sacra  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Aberlour  and  synod  of 
Moray  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £120.  Glenlivet  stiU 
is  largely  Catholic,  there  being  two  churches  at  Chapel- 
TO^VN  and  Tosieae  ;  whilst  five  schools — Glenlivet 
public,  Achnarrow  and  Crossness  female,  and  Chapel- 
town  and  Tombae  Catholic — with  respective  accommo- 
dation for  lOi,  41,  69, 195,  and  144  children,  had  (1881) 
an  average  attendance  of  32,  19,  40,  38,  and  22,  and 
grants  of  £24,  18s.,  £31,  5s.  6d.,  £48,  15s.,  £28,  2s., 
and  £13,  Ss.     Pop.  (1871)  1718,  (1881)  1616. 

'  A  spot  near  the  right  bank  of  Alltaooileachan  Bm'n, 
4  miltes  E  by  N  of  the  post  office,  was  the  battle-field 
where,  on  4  Oct.  1594,  the  loyal  Protestant  army  under 
the  Earl  of  Argyll  was  defeated  by  the  insurgent  Roman 
Catholic  army  under  the  Earl  of  Huntl}'.  Argyll  dis- 
posed his  army  on  the  declivitj'  of  a  hill,  in  two  parallel 
divisions.  The  right  wing,  consisting  of  Macleans  and 
Mackintoshes,  was  commanded  by  Sir  Lachlan  Maclean 
and  The  Mackintosh  ;  the  left,  of  Grants,  Macneills,  and 
Macgregors,  by  Grant  of  Gartenheg  ;  and  the  centre,  of 
Campbells,  etc.,  by  Campbell  of  Auchinbreck.  This 
vanguard  consisted  of  4000  men,  one-half  of  whom  car- 
ried muskets.  The  rear  of  the  army,  6000  strong,  Argyll 
commanded  in  person.  The  Earl  of  Huntly 's  vanguard 
was  composed  of  300  gentlemen,  led  by  the  Earl  of  Errol, 
Sir  Patrick  Gordon  of  Auchindoun,  the  lairds  of  Gight 
and   Bonnitoun,  and  Captain,   afterwards  Sir,   Thomas 

Carr.  The  Earl  himself  brought  up  the  rest  of  his  forces, 
having  the  laird  of  Clunie  upon  his  right  hand  and  the 
laird  of  Abergeldie  upon  his  left.  Six  pieces  of  field- 
ordnance  under  the  direction  of  Captain  Andrew  Gray, 
afterwards  colonel  of  the  English  and  Soots  who  served 
in   Bohemia,   were   placed   in   front   of  the  vanguard. 

Argyll's  position  on  the  slope  of  the  hill  gave  him  an 

advantage  over  his  assailants,  who,  from  the  nature  of 
their  force,  were  greatly  hampered  by  the  mossiness  of 
the  ground  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  which  was  interspersed 

by  pits  from  which  turf  had  been  dug.  But,  not\rith- 
standing  these  obstacles,  Huntly  advanced  up  the  hill 

with  a  slow  and  steady  pace.  It  had  been  arranged 
between  him  and  Campbell  of  Lochnell,  who  had  pro- 


GLENLOCHY 

mised  to  go  over  to  Huntly  as  soon  as  the  battle  com- 
menced, that,  before  charging  Argyll  with  his  cavalry, 
Huntly  should  bring  his  artillery  to  bear  on  the  yellow 
standard.  Campbell  bore  a  mortal  enmity  to  Argj'll, 
who  had  murdered  his  brother,  Campbell  of  Calder,  in 
1592  ;  and  as  he  was  nearest  heir  to  the  Earl,  he  pro- 
bably had  directed  this  firing  at  the  yellow  standard  in 
the  hope  of  cutting  him  ofl'.  Campbell  himself,  how- 
ever, was  shot  dead  at  the  first  fire  of  the  cannon,  and 
on  his  fall  all  his  men  fled  from  the  field.  Macneill  of 
Barra  was  also  slain  at  the  same  time.  The  Highlanders, 
who  had  never  before  seen  field -pieces,  were  thrown  into 
disorder  b}'  the  cannonade,  which  being  perceived  by 
Huntly,  he  charged  the  enemy,  and  rushing  in  among 
them  with  his  horsemen  increased  the  confusion.  The 
Earl  of  Errol  was  directed  to  attack  Argj'll's  right  wing ; 
but  as  it  occupied  a  very  steep  part  of  the  hill,  and  as 
Errol  was  gi'catly  annoyed  by  volleys  of  .shot  from  above, 
he  was  forced  to  make  a  detour,  leaving  the  enemy  on 
his  left.  Gordon  of  Auchindoun,  disdaining  so  prudent 
a  course,  galloped  up  the  hill  with  a  small  party  of  his 
own  followers,  and  cliarged  Maclean  with  great  im- 
petuosity— a  rashness  that  cost  him  his  life.  The  fall 
of  Auchindoun  so  exasperated  his  followers  that  they 
set  no  bounds  to  their  fury  ;  but  Maclean  received  their 
repeated  assaults  with  iu-mnoss,  and  manceuvred  his 
troops  so  well  as  to  succeed  in  cutting  ofi'  the  Earl  of 
Errol  and  placing  him  between  his  own  body  and  that 
of  Argyll,  by  whose  joint  forces  he  was  completely  sur- 
rounded. At  this  important  crisis,  when  chance  of 
retreat  there  was  none,  and  when  Errol  and  his  men 
were  in  danger  of  being  cut  to  pieces,  the  Earl  of  Huntly 
came  up  to  his  assistance  and  relieved  him  from  his 
perilous  position.  The  battle  was  now  renewed,  and 
continued  for  two  hours,  during  which  both  parties 
fought  -with  great  bravery,  '  the  one, '  says  Sir  Robert 
Gordon,  'for  glorie,  the  other  for  necessitie. '  In  the 
heat  of  the  action  the  Earl  of  Huntlj'  had  a  horse  shot 
under  him,  and  was  in  imminent  danger  of  his  life ;  but 
another  horse  was  straightway  got  for  him.  After  a 
hard  contest  the  main  body  of  Argyll's  army  began  to 
give  way,  and  retreated  towards  the  Burn  of  AUta- 
coileachan  ;  but  Maclean  still  kept  the  field,  and  con- 
tinued to  support  the  falling  fortune  of  the  day.  At 
length,  finding  the  contest  hopeless,  and  after  losing 
manj'  of  his  men,  he  retired  in  good  order  with  the 
small  company  that  still  remained  about  him.  Huntly 
pursued  the  retiring  foe  beyond  the  burn,  when  he  was 
hindered  from  following  them  farther  by  the  steepness 
of  the  hills,  so  unfavourable  to  the  operations  of  cavalry. 
His  success  was  mainly  due  to  the  treacliery  of  Lochnell 
and  of  John  Grant  of  Gartenbeg,  one  of  Huntly 's  own 
vassals,  who,  in  terms  of  a  concerted  plan,  retreated 
with  his  men  as  soon  as  the  action  began,  whereby  the 
centre  and  left  wing  of  Argyll's  army  were  completely 
broken.  On  Argyll's  side  500  men  were  killed,  includ- 
ing Macneill  of  Barra  and  the  Earl's  two  cousins,  Loch- 
nell and  Auchinbreck.  The  Earl  of  Huntly's  loss  was 
trifling — fourteen  gentlemen  were  slain,  among  them 
Sir  Patrick  Gordon  of  Auchindoun  and  the  laird  of 
Gight ;  whilst  the  Earl  of  Errol  and  a  considerable 
number  of  persons  were  wounded.  At  the  conclusion 
of  the  battle  the  conc|uerors  returned  thanks  to  God  on 
the  field  for  the  victory  they  had  achieved.  This  battle 
is  commonly  known  as  the  battle  of  Glenlivet,  but  in 
its  own  neighbourhood  it  is  called  the  battle  of  AUta- 
coileachan. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  75,  86,  1876. 

Glenlochar.     See  Balmaghie  and  Ceossmiohael. 

Glenlochy,  a  beautiful  glen  in  Breadalbane  district,  W 
Perthshire,  traversed  by  the  river  Loohy,  which,  rising 
at  an  altitude  of  2050  feet,  curves  174  miles  east-north- 
eastward till,  near  Killin  village,  it  falls  in  the  Dochakt, 
i  mile  above  the  influx  of  the  latter  to  Loch  Tay.  On 
the  S  Glenlochy  is  flanked  by  Meall  Chuirn  (3007  feet), 
and  lesser  mountains  separating  it  from  StrathfiDau  and 
Glendochart,  on  the  N  by  another  lofty  range  cul- 
minating towards  the  foot  in  MeaU  Gliaordie  (3407) ; 
and  it  contains,  2j  miles  NW  of  Killin,  a  series  of  six 
cataracts  in  two  groups,  with  a  deep  round  pool  between. 

189 


GLENLOCHY 

It  is  distributed  territorially  into  detached  portions  of 
Kenmore,  Weem,  and  Killiu  parishes. — OrcL.  Sur.,  sh. 
46,  1872. 

Glenlochy,  a  bleak,  bare  glen  in  Glenorchy  and  Innis- 
hail  parish,  Argyllshire,  traversed  by  the  Loohy,  which, 
issuing  from  Lochan  Bhe  (822  feet)  ou  the  eastern  verge 
of  the  county,  near  Tyndruin,  runs  85  miles  west-south- 
westward,  till,  after  a  descent  of  676  feet,  it  falls  into 
the  Orchy,  at  a  point  1 J  mile  above  Dalmally.  It  takes 
down  a  high  road  and  the  Callander  and  Oban  railway. 
—Orel.  Snr.,  shs.  46,  45,  1872-76. 

Glenlogan,  a  village,  ^Yith  iron-works,  in  Sorn  parish, 
Ayrshire,  near  the  S  side  of  tlie  river  Ayr,  3  miles  E 
of  Catrine.     Near  it  is  Glenlogan  House. 

Glenlogie,  a  lateral  glen  in  the  upper  division  of 
Kirriemuir  parish,  Forfarshire,  descending  3|  miles 
southward  to  Glenprosen  at  Balnaboth. 

Gleulora,  a  mansion  in  Lochwinnoch  parish,  Eenfrew- 
shire,  If  mile  W  of  Lochwinnoch  town. 

Glenloth,  a  glen  in  Loth  parish,  SE  Sutherland, 
traversed  by  a  rivulet  that,  rising  on  the  western  slope 
of  Beinn  na  Meilich  (1940  feet)  at  an  altitude  of  1500, 
winds  5f  miles  south-by-eastward  to  the  sea  near  Loth 
station.— Ord  Sur.,  sh.  103,  1878. 

Glenluce,  a  village,  a  ruined  abbey,  and  a  valley  of 
Wigtownshire.  The  village,  in  Old  Luce  parish,  stands 
on  the  Lady  Burn,  at  the  KW  base  of  pine-clad  Bar- 
lockart  Fell  (411  feet),  and  9  furlongs  N  by  E  of  the 
influx  of  Luce  Water  to  Luce  Bay  ;  its  station  on  the 
Portpatrick  branch  of  the  Caledonian  is  8|  miles  E  by 
S  of  Stranraer,  and  14f  WSW  of  Newton-Stewart. 
Sheltered  by  gentle  hills  and  by  .the  wooded  policies  of 
Balkail,  it  is  a  pleasant  little  place,  for  the  most  part 
modern,  though  one  of  its  houses  bears  date  1736,  and 
though  we  hear  of  it  so  long  ago  as  1654,  when  the 
'  Devil  of  Glenluce  '  took  up  his  quarters  in  a  weaver's 
cottage,  and,  like  a  Land-leaguer,  would  not  be  put  out 
— not  even  by  the  prayers  of  all  the  presbytery  (Cham- 
bers' Domestic  Aniiah).  There  now  are  a  post  office, 
\nt\i  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  depart- 
ments, a  branch  of  the  National  Bank,  4  insurance 
agencies,  2  good  inns,  a  handsome  new  public  school, 
and  a  neat  bowling-green ;  and  fairs  are  held  on  the 
first  Friday  of  the  last  nine  months  of  the  year.  The 
parish  church  (1814  ;  800  sittings),  a  Free  church  (1847  ; 
330  sittings),  and  a  U.  P.  churcli,  all  in  Main  Street,  are 
all  plain  buildings.  The  former  Kirk  of  Glenluce  is 
memorable  as  the  scene  (12  Aug.  1669)  of  the  bridal  of 
Janet  Dalrymple,  the  prototype  of  '  Lucy  Ashton.'  (See 
Cabsecketjgh  and  Baldoon.  )  A  fine  Celtic  cross  fi'om 
Glenluce  churchyard,  witli  a  fragment  of  another  from 
Cassendeoch,  was  placed  in  1880  in  the  Edinburgh  Anti- 
quarian Museum,  which  has  further  been  enriched  by  a 
splendid  collection  of  over  4000  stone  and  bronze  imple- 
ments, collected  and  presented  by  the  Rev.  George 
Wilson,  Free  Church  minister  here.  These,  which  are 
described  in  a  paper  read  to  the  Society  of  Antiquaries 
on  13  June  1881,  are  some  of  them  very  rare,  e.g.,  a 
small  bronze  bell,  a  bronze  knife-dagger,  etc.  Pop.  of 
village  (1871)  899,  (1881)  901. 

Glenluce  Abbey,  on  the  left  bank  of  Luce  Water,  1 J 
mile  NW  of  the  village,  was  founded  in  1190  by  Roland, 
Lord  of  Galloway  and  Constable  of  Scotland,  for  Cis- 
tercian monks  from  Melrose.  It  covered  more  than  an 
acre  of  ground,  and  attached  to  it  were  a  garden  and 
orchard,  9  Scots  acres  in  area,  wdiich  now  form  the 
glebe  of  Old  Luce  parish.  In  1214  one  William  was 
abbot,  known  only  as  the  author  of  an  extant  letter  to 
the  Abbot  of  Melrose,  wherein  he  describes  a  strange 
appearance  in  the  heavens,  beheld  by  two  of  his  monks. 
In  1235  the  abbey  was  plundered  by  the  rude  soldiery 
of  Alexander  II.,  despatched  against  the  Gallowegian 
rebels  ;  and  to  the  13th  century  belongs  the  reported 
sojourn  here  of  Michael  Scott,  the  warlock,  who,  to 
keep  his  familiars  employed,  set  them  to  spin  ropes  out 
of  the  sea-sand — ropes  that  are  still  from  time  to  time 
laid  bare  by  wind  and  tide  at  Ringdoo  Point.  In  1507, 
when  James  IV.  with  Margaret  his  queen,  was  return- 
ing from  a  pilgrimage  to  Whithorn,  he  lay  a  night  at 
190 


GLENLYON 

Glenluce,  and  made  its  gardener  the  present  of  four 
shillings  ;  in  1514  died  Cuthbert  Baillie,  the  abbot, 
who  for  the  two  last  years  had  been  lord-treasurer  of 
Scotland.  Thomas  Hay,  ancestor  of  the  Hays  of  Park, 
was  by  papal  bull  of  1560  appointed  commendator  or 
collector  of  the  abbey's  revenues,  which,  amounting  to 
£666,  were  in  1575  leased  to  Gilbert,  fourth  Earl  of 
Cassillis,  him  of  Crossraguel  infamy.  The  Earl,  we  are 
told,  had  dealt  with  a  monk  to  forge  the  late  abbot's 
signature,  then  had  hired  a  carle  called  Carnochan  to 
stick  the  monk,  next  had  wrought  on  his  uncle,  Bar- 
gany,  to  hang  the  carle,  and  '  sa  had  conqueist  the 
landis  of  Glenluce.'  Park  Place  is  said  to  have  been 
partly  built  in  1590  with  stones  from  the  abbey,  which 
yet  so  late  as  1646  is  mentioned  in  the  presbytery 
records  of  Stranraer  as  having  sustained  little  injury, 
and  of  which  Symson  in  his  Description  of  Galloway 
(1684)  wrote  that  'the  steeple  and  part  of  the  walls  of 
the  church,  together  with  the  chapter-house,  the  walls 
of  the  cloyster,  the  gate-house,  and  the  walls  of  the 
large  precincts,  are  still  standing.'  Of  the  church 
itself.  Early  English  in  style,  little  now  remains  save 
the  S  transept  gable,  with  eastern  side-chapels  ;  but  the 
cloister  walls  are  fairly  entire  to  the  height  of  some  16 
feet,  and  the  Decorated  chapter-house  is  singularly 
perfect,  its  arched  roof  still  upborne  by  a  central 
octagonal  piUar,  18  feet  in  height.  The  lands  of  Glen- 
luce, vested  in  the  Cro\vn  in  1587,  wsre  in  1602 
erected  into  a  temporal  barony  in  favour  of  Laurence 
Gordon,  second  son  of  the  Bishop  of  Galloway  ;  and  at 
his  death  in  1610  passed  to  his  brother  John,  the  Dean 
of  Salisbury.  Transferred  by  him  in  the  same  year  to 
his  son-in-law.  Sir  Robert  Gordon  of  Gordonstoun,  they 
were  bought  back  in  1613  by  the  Crown,  and  annexed 
to  the  see  of  Galloway.  In  1641,  on  the  temporary 
abrogation  of  Episcopacy,  they  were  transferred  to  the 
University  of  Glasgow,  and,  having  from  1681  to  1689 
been  restored  to  the  re-erected  bishopric  of  GaUoway, 
they  were  finally  once  more  made  a  temporal  barony,  in 
favour  of  Sir  James  DalrjTnple,  wlio  in  the  following 
year  was  raised  to  the  peerage  as  Viscount  Staip.  and 
Lord  Glenluce  and  Stranraer  (P.  H.  M'Kerlie's  Latids 
and  their  Ovmers  in  Galloway). 

The  valley  of  Glenluce,  commencing  at  New  Luce 
village,  extends  Q\  miles  south-by-eastward  to  the  head 
of  Luce  Bay  ;  is  traversed  from  head  to  foot  by  Ltjce 
Water,  formed  at  New  Luce  village  by  the  confluence  of 
Main  and  Cross  Waters  ;  and  is  mostly  included  in  the 
parishes  of  New  Luce  and  Old  Luce.  It  is  called,  in 
ancient  Latin  documents,  Vallis  Liicis  ( '  the  valley  of 
light '),  a  name  as  to  whose  origin  opinions  differ. 
Glenluce  was  all  one  parish  till  1647,  when  it  was 
separated  into  Old  and  New  Luce. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  3, 
4,  1856-57. 

Glen  Lui,  the  glen  of  Liri  Water  in  the  upper  part 
of  Braemar,  Aberdeenshire,  descending  9J  miles  south- 
eastward from  the  eastern  shoulder  (3400  feet)  of  Ben 
Macdhui  to  the  valley  of  the  Dee  (1168  feet)  at  a  point 
I  mile  below  the  Linn  of  Dee.  The  upper  6|  miles, 
above  the  Derry's  confluence  with  the  Lui,  bear  the 
name  of  Glen  Lui  Beg,  and  the  whole  exhibits  soms 
striking  alpine  scenery. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  64,  65, 1874-70. 

Glenlyon,  a  long  narrow  glen  and  a  quoad  sacra 
parisli  iu  Breadalbane  district,  Perthshire.  The  glen, 
commencing  among  alpine  mountains  at  the  Argyllshire 
border,  5  miles  NNE  of  Tyndrum,  descends  24  miles 
east-north-eastward  to  the  vale  of  Fortingall,  4 J  miles 
WNW  of  Kenmore  ;  contains  at  its  head  Loch  Lyon  ; 
and  takes  down  thence  the  river  Lyon  towards  its  con- 
fluence  with  the  Tay.  Belonging  mainly  to  Fortingall 
parish,  but  partly  to  Weem,  it  contains  a  number  of  an- 
cient Caledonian  forts  ascribed  to  Fingal  by  the  voice  o» 
tradition  ;  was  tlie  scene  of  a  sanguinary  conflict  be- 
tween  the  clan  M'lvor  and  the  Stewarts  of  Garth  ;  and 
gives  the  title  of  Baron  in  the  peerage  of  the  United 
Kingdom,  and  that  of  Viscount  in  the  peerage  of  Scot- 
land, to  the  Duke  of  Athole.  Its  southern  flank  com- 
prises Meall  Ghaordie  (3407  feet),  Ben  Lawem  (3984), 
and  the  mountains  connecting  them  ;  its  northern  flank 


GLENMANNO  BURN 

consists  of  mountains  similar  in  character,  though  not 
so  lofty,  and  both  rise  with  sucli  rapid  acclivity  as  to 
shut  out  the  sunbeariis  and  render  it  a  valley  of  shadows 
throughout  the  livelong  winter,  and  during  great  part 
of  the  other  months  of  the  year.  Yet  its  sides,  to  the 
very  summits,  are  generally  clad  in  verdure,  and  dotted 
with  hundreds  of  sheep  ;  display  a  rib-work  of  ravine  and 
dell,  traversed  by  limpid  brooks  or  leaping  cataracts  ; 
and  form,  in  many  points  of  view,  fine  blendings  of  soft 
beauty  and  savage  grandeur.  Its  bottom,  beginning  on 
the  high  elevation  of  over  1100  feet  above  sea-level,  is 
seldom  more  than  a  furlong  wide,  and  has  no  carriage 
outlet  except  at  and  near  the  foot  ;  j'et  acquires  such 
picturesqueness  from  its  vista-views  and  its  flanks,  that, 
in  the  language  of  Miss  Sinclair,  '  not  a  feature  could  be 
altered  without  injury,  and  a  painter  might  advanta- 
geously spend  his  whole  life  in  taking  views,  every  one 
of  which  would  appear  completely  different.'  One  man- 
sion, noticed  separately,  is  Meggeenie  Castle ;  another, 
Glenlyon  House,  9  miles  "\V  by  S  of  Aberfeldy,  is  a  seat 
of  Francis  'William  Garden-Campbell,  Esq.  of  Troup 
(b.  1840  ;  sue.  1848),  who  holds  10,516  acres  in  Perth- 
shire and  9546  in  Banffshire,  valued  at  £1621  and 
£5794  per  annum.  Archibald  Fletcher  (1745-1828), 
the  'father  of  burgh  reform,'  was  born  in  Glenlyon. 
The  quoad  sacra  parish,  constituted  by  the  ecclesias- 
tical authorities  in  1833,  and  by  the  Court  of  Teinds  in 
1845,  is  conterminous  with  the  glen  and  its  flanks  ; 
and  bears  the  name  of  Innerwick  in  Glenlyon,  from 
the  hamlet  of  Innerwick,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Lyon,  18J  miles  W  by  S  of  Aberfeldy,  under  which  it 
has  a  post  office  (Glenlyon).  It  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Weem  and  sjmod  of  Perth  and  Stirliug  ;  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £120.  The  parish  church,  at  Innerwick,  was 
built  in  1828  at  a  cost  of  £673,  and  contains  550  sit- 
tings. Glenlyon  Free  Church  stands  2  miles  lower  down 
the  glen  ;  and  two  public  schools,  Camhusvrachan  and 
Meggernie,  with  respective  accommodation  for  62  and 
44  children,  had  (ISSl)  an  average  attendance  of  14 
and  18,  and  grants  of  £29,  2s.  and  £31,  7s.  Pop.  (1841) 
570,  (1871)  393,  (1881)  355,  of  whom  283  were  in  For- 
tingall  and  72  in  Weem. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  46,  54,  55, 
1869-73. 

Glenmanno  Burn,  a  stream  of  Penpont  parish,  NW 
Dumfriesshire,  rising,  4  miles  to  the  E  of  the  meeting- 
point  with  AjT  and  Kirkcudbright  shires,  at  an  altitude 
of  1500  feet,  and  running  3§  miles  east-by-southward  till, 
after  a  descent  of  870  feet,  it  falls  into  Scar  Water  at  a 
point  6i  miles  NW  of  Penpont  village.  Its  pastoral 
valley  is  associated  with  cm-ious  and  stirring  anecdotes 
of  a  sheep  farmer,  known  only  as  Glenmanno,  who  lived 
in  the  latter  half  of  last  century,  and  performed  wonder- 
ful feats  of  phj-sical  strength, — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  15,  1864. 

Glenmark,  a  glen  of  Lochlee  parish,  N  Forfarshire, 
traversed  by  the  Water  of  Mark,  a  troutful  stream  that, 
rising  at  an  altitude  of  2420  feet  close  to  the  Aberdeen- 
shire border,  mnds  lOJ  miles  north-north-eastward  and 
south-eastward  till,  after  a  descent  of  1600  feet,  it  unites 
with  the  Water  of  Lee  at  Invermark,  near  Lochlee 
church,  17  miles  NW  of  Edzell,  to  form  the  river  North 
EsK.— 0)T?.  Sur.,  shs.  65,  66,  1870-71. 

Glemnarlin,  a  picturesque  cataract  in  the  course  of 
Scar  Water,  on  the  mutual  boundary  of  Penpont  and 
Tynron  parishes,  Dumfriesshire,  1  mile  W  of  Penpont 
village.  It  presents  some  resemblance  to  the  Rumbling 
Bridge  Falls,  near  Dunkeld. 

Glenmassan,  a  glen  in  the  Eilmun  portion  of  Dunoon 
parish,  Cowal,  Argyllshire,  traversed  by  the  turbulent 
Massan,  which,  rising  at  an  altitude  of  800  feet  above 
sea-level,  on  the  north-western  slope  of  Bexmore,  runs 
84  miles  southward  and  south-eastward  till  it  falls  into 
the  Eachaig,  near  Benmore  House.  Its  scenery  has 
been  said  to  be  that  of  Switzerland  in  miniature,  want- 
ing only  the  snow ;  its  lower  portion  being  finely 
wooded,  its  upper,  bare  and  grand.  Glenmassan  is 
mentioned  in  the  ancient  Irish  story  of  the  Sons  of 
Uisneach.— Oi-d  Sur.,  shs.  37,  29,  1876-73. 

Glenmavis.     See  New  Monkl-^nd. 

Glenmill.     See  Camp.sie. 


GLENMOEE-NAN-ALBIN 

Glenmillan,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion  in  Lumphanan 
parish,  Aberdeenshire,  1  mile  N  by  E  of  Lumphanan 
station.  Here  were  some  ancient  sepulchral  cairns ;  and 
two  bronze  rings  or  armlets  found  in  one  of  them  were 
gifted  in  1832  to  the  Edinburgh  Antiquarian  Museum. 

Glenmore,  a  glen  of  Fortingall  parish,  Perthshire,  ex- 
tending 3  miles  eastward  along  the  southern  skirts  of 
conical  Sohieh.^llion,  then  IJ  mile  south-south-east- 
ward along  the  Dull  border  into  junction  with  Strath 
Appin.  it  takes  down  the  Allt  Mor  rivulet  to  Keltney 
Burn  ;  and  was  anciently  covered  with  the  forest  of 
Schiehallion,  the  roots  of  whose  pine  trees  long  served 
the  neighbouring  peasantry  as  excellent  fuel,  whilst 
those  of  its  oaks  were  manufactured  into  hones  for 
scythes,  and  were  readily  bought  in  the  surrounding 
country. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  55,  1869. 

Glenmore,  a  glen  in  Abernethy,  Kincardine,  and 
Duthil-Rothiemurchus  parishes,  E  Inverness-shire, 
commencing  among  the  Cairngorm  Mountains,  and  em- 
bosoming pine-girt  Loch  Morlich  (8x5  furl.  ;  1046 
feet),  out  of  which  the  Luineag  winds  3J  miles  west- 
north-westward,  and  then,  as  the  Druie,  1§  mile  west- 
north-westward  to  the  Spey,  nearly  opposite  Aviemore 
station.  The  trees  of  the  forest  round  Loch  Morlich  were 
sold  in  1784  for  £10,000  by  the  Duke  of  Gordon  to  Messrs 
Dodsworth  &  Osborne,  wood-merchants,  of  Kingston- 
upon-Hull,  and  by  them  were  nearly  all  felled,  and  floated 
down  the  Spey  to  Garmouth,  at  first  in  single  logs,  but 
afterwards  in  rafts.  Many  of  them  were  so  large  as  to 
measure  from  18  to  20  feet  in  girth  of  bole  ;  and  several 
yielded  planks  of  nearly  6  feet  in  breadth.  A  vast 
trade  speedily  sprang  up,  £40,000  worth  of  timber  being 
shipped  in  the  course  of  a  twelvemonth,  besides  what 
was  used  in  local  shipbuilding.  The  havoc  then  done 
has  been  in  great  measure  repaired,  several  thousands 
of  acres  having  been  replanted  since  1845. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  74,  1877.  See  Sir  Thomas  Dick-Lauder's  edition  of 
Gilpin's  Forest  Scenery  (1834). 

Glenmore,  a  mountain  defile  in  Torosay  parish.  Mull 
island,  Argyllshire.  Extending  10  miles  westward  from 
the  head  of  Loch  Don  to  the  head  of  Loch  Scridain,  it 
forms  the  line  of  communication  between  the  eastern 
and  western  coasts  of  the  southern  half  of  Mull  ;  is 
narrow,  winding,  gloomy,  and  sublime  ;  and  rises, 
in  the  highest  part  of  its  bottom,  to  an  elevation  of 
about  300  feet  above  sea-level,  being  flanked  with  cliffs 
and  acclivities,  overhung  by  Bentalloch,  Benmore,  and 
other  lofty  mountains. 

Glenmore,  a  village  in  Portree  parish.  Isle  of  Skye, 
Inveruess-shire. 

Glenmore  Burn,  a  stream  of  Bute  island,  Buteshire, 
running  4J  miles  south-south-eastward  to  Etterick  Bay. 

Glenmore  House,  a  modern  mansion  in  Kirkmichael 
parish,  Ayrshire,  4J  miles  SSE  of  Maybole.  It  is  the 
seat  of  Sir  William  James  Montgomery-Cuninghame  of 
Corsehill,  ninth  Bart,  since  1672  (b.  1834  ;  sue.  1870), 
who  sat  as  Conservative  member  for  the  Ayr  burghs 
from  1874  to  1880,  and  wdio  holds  3209  acres  in  the 
shire,  valued  at  £3750  per  annum. 

Glenmore-nan-Albin  or  Great  Glen  of  Scotland,  a 
magnificent  Highland  valley,  chiefly  in  Inverness-shire, 
but  partly  on  the  mutual  border  of  Inverness  and  Argjdl 
shires.  Commencing  in  the  south-western  vicinity  of 
Inverness,  it  extends  60J  miles  south-westward  to  Loch 
Eil  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort-William  ;  forms,  with  the 
Upper  Moray  Firth  in  the  NE,  and  Loch  Eil  and 
Loch  Linnhe  in  the  SW,  a  continuous  and  straight 
opening  through  the  mountains  from  side  to  side  of 
the  Scottish  mainland  ;  and  is  traversed  from  end  to 
end,  within  its  own  proper  limits,  by  the  Caledonian 
Canal  navigation.  It  coutains,  within  these  limits. 
Lochs  Dochfour,  Ness,  Oich,  and  Lochy,  constituting 
about  three-fifths  of  the  entire  length  of  that  naviga- 
tion ;  is  overhung  at  Loch  Ness  by  Mealfourvonie,  at 
Fort -William  by  Ben  Nevis,  and  in  other  parts 
by  other  lofty  mountains ;  receives  into  its  waters 
picturesque  streams  through  the  lateral  glens  of  Ur- 
quhart,  Farigaig,  Foyers,  Moriston,  Garry,  Archaig,  and 
Spean  ;  exhibits,  almost  everywhere,  a  rich,  diversified, 

191 


GLENMORE  WATER 


GLENNOE 


picturesque  display  of  Highland  scenery  ;  and  is  noticed 
in  detail  in  our  articles  on  its  various  parts  and  ob- 
jects.—Or(^.  Swr.,  shs.  84,  83,  73,  63,  62,  1873-81. 

Glemnore  Water,  a  stream  of  Auchinleck  parish,  E 
Ayrshire,  rising  at  an  altitude  of  1600  feet  near  the 
meeting-point  with  Lanark  and  Dumfries  shires,  and 
running  first  5J  miles  west-south-westward  across  the 
bleak  uplands  of  the  Glenmuirshaw  or  the  eastern  in- 
terior, then  4|  miles  west-north-westward  along  the  Old 
Cumnock  border,  till,  just  above  Lugar  Iron-works,  it 
unites  with  Gass  Water  to  form  the  Lug.a.r. — Ord.  Sur., 
shs.  15,  14,  1864-63. 

Glen  Moriston  (Gael,  gleann-mor-easan,  '  valley  of  the 
great  cascades '),  a  beautiful  glen  in  Urquhart  and  Glen- 
moriston  parish,  NW  Inverness-shire,  traversed  by  the 
impetuous  river  Moriston,  iiowing  19J  miles  east-north- 
eastward from  Loch  Cltjnie  (606  feet  above  sea-level) 
to  Loch  Ness  (50  feet)  at  Inveemoeiston,  7  miles  NNE 
of  Fort  Augustus.  Near  Invermoriston  House  and 
Hotel  is  Glenmoriston  post  office,  with  money  order, 
savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  departments  ;  and  near 
Torgyle  Bridge  and  lun,  9  miles  higher  up,  are  an 
Established  mission  church,  a  Free  church,  and  a  Roman 
Catholic  church  (1841  ;  100  sittings),  all  three  designated 
of  Glenmoriston.  From  Torgyle  downwards  the  glen  is 
finely  wooded  with  birch  and  fir  ;  and  it  takes  up  a  road 
to  Glenshiel,  Glenelg,  and  Skye.  The  ancient  parish  of 
Glenmoriston,  atone  time  annexed  to  Abertarf,  has  been 
united  to  Urquhart  since  the  Reformation  era.  Pop.  of 
registration  district  (1871)  565,  (1881)  425.  — Ord.  Sur., 
shs.  72,  73,  1880-78. 

Glenmuick,  Tullich,  and  Glengairn,  a  Deeside  parish 
of  SW  Aberdeenshire,  containing  the  post  oflfice  village 
and  railway  terminus  of  Ballater,  43^  miles  WSW  of 
Aberdeen,  and  4  and  65  miles  WSW  of  Cambus  0'  May 
and  Dinnet  stations,  both  of  which  also  are  within  its 
bounds.  Comprising  the  ancient  parishes  of  Glengairn 
to  the  NW,  Tullich  to  the  NE,  and  Glenmuick  to  the 
S,  the  two  first  on  the  left  and  the  last  on  the  right 
side  of  the  Dee,  it  is  bounded  N  by  Strathdon  and 
Logie-Coldstone,  NE  by  Logie-Coldstone,  E  by  Aboyne- 
Glentanner,  SE  by  Lochlee  and  SW  by  Clova  in  For- 
farshire, and  W  by  Crathie-Braemar.  Its  utmost  length, 
from  N  to  S,  is  17i  miles ;  its  width,  from  E  to  W, 
varies  between  4J  and  12J  miles;  and  its  area  is  88,798J 
acres,  of  which  1437i^  are  water.  From  a  point  f  mile 
E  of  Crathie  church  to  the  Mill  of  Dinnet,  the  Dee 
winds  15g  miles  east-north-eastward — first  4f  miles 
along  the  Crathie  border,  next  8J  miles  through  the 
interior,  and  lastly  2J  miles  along  the  Aboyne  border — 
during  which  course  it  descends  from  850  to  505  feet 
above  sea-level.  A  stream  that  rises  on  Cairn  Taggart, 
in  the  SE  extremity  of  the  parish,  at  3150  feet,  thence 
dashes  IJ  mile  east-south-eastward  to  wild  and  pic- 
turesque Dhu  Loch  (5J  X  1 J  furl.  ;  2091  feet),  thence 
hurries  2  miles  east-by-southward  to  dark  Loch  Muick 
(2J  miles  x^  mile  ;  1310  feet),  and  thence,  as  the  river 
Muick,  runs  9|  miles  north-north-eastward  along  Glen 
Muick  proper,  till,  4  mile  above  Ballater  bridge  and  at 
665  feet  of  altitude,  it  falls  into  the  Dee.  Through  the 
north-western  or  Glengairn  portion  of  the  united  parish, 
the  Gairn,  entering  from  Crathie,  winds  9  miles  east- 
south-eastward  to  the  Dee,  at  a  point  If  mile  NW  of 
Ballater  ;  whilst  the  Water  of  Tanner,  rising  close  to 
the  Forfarshire  border,  at  2050  feet,  runs  7  miles  north- 
eastward through  Glenmuick,  and  passes  ofi'  into  the 
Glentanner  division  of  Aboyne.  In  the  Tullich  portion 
are  Lochs  Cannoe  (1  mile  x  5  furl.  ;  570  feet)  and 
Daven  (6  X  4f  furl.  ;  480  feet),  the  former  belonging 
wholly  to  this  parish,  the  latter  partly  to  Logie-Cold- 
stone. Save  for  the  broadening  valley  of  the  Dee  and 
the  wide  dreary  Muir  of  Dinnet  in  the  NE,  the  surface 
almost  everywhere  is  mountainous.  Chief  elevations, 
■westward,  N  of  the  Dee  are  Culblean  Hill  (1750  feet), 
Crannach  Hill  (1824),  *Morven  Hill  (2862),  wooded 
Craigandarroch  (1250),  Geallaig  Hill  (2439),  and  *Carn 
a'  Bhacain  (2442),  where  asterisks  mark  those  summits 
that  culminate  on  the  confines  of  the  parish.  E  of 
the  Tanner  rise  Clocli  an  Yell  (2053)  and  *Mount  Keen 
192 


(3077) ;  between  the  Tanner  and  the  Muick,  Black  | 
Craig  (1742),  Pananich  Hill  (1896),  Cairn  Leughan  ^ 
(2233),  *Fasheilach  (2362),  Black  Hill  (2470),  *Lair  of 
Aldararie  (2726),  *Broad  Cairn  (3268),  *Cairn  Bannoch 
(3314),  and  *Cairn  Taggart  (3430)  ;  and  W  or  left  of 
the  Muick,  Creag  Phiobaidh  (1462),  the  Coyle  (1956), 
*Conacheraig  Hill  (2827),  and  the  *lower  summit  (3768) 
of  LocHNAGAE.  The  rocks  include  granite,  gneiss, 
trap,  and  primary  limestone ;  lead-mining  operations 
were  carried  on  at  Abergairn  in  1874 ;  and  other 
minerals  are  fluor-spar,  amianthus,  asbestos,  sei-pentine, 
etc.  The  soil  along  the  Dee  and  in  the  lower  glens  is 
mostly  boulder  gravel  or  sandy  loam.  Barely  a  thirtieth 
of  the  entire  area  is  in  tillage  ;  as  much  or  more — 
chiefly  along  the  Dee  and  the  Muick — is  clad  with 
woods  and  plantations  of  Scotch  fir,  larch,  birch,  oak, 
aspen,  etc.  ;  and  the  rest  is  all  either  sheep-walk  or  deer- 
forest,  moss  or  heathy  moorland.  All  the  chief  spots 
of  interest,  of  which  there  are  many,  have  articles  to 
themselves,  as  ALT-NA-GitrTHASAOH,  Ballateich, 
Bracklet  and  Knock  Castles,  Pananich,  and  the 
Vat.  Glenmuick  House,  on  the  Muick's  right  bank, 
2  miles  SSW  of  Ballater,  was  built  in  1872  from  designs 
by  Sir  Morton  Peto,  and  is  a  striking  Tudor  edifice  of 
native  pink-coloured  granite,  with  a  massive  square 
tower  75  feet  high.  Its  o^vner,  James  Thomson  Mac- 
kenzie, Esq.  of  Kintail  (b.  1824),  holds  25,000  acres 
in  the  shu-e,  valued  at  £1116  per  annum.  Cambus  o' 
May  House,  near  the  station  of  that  name,  is  a  pretty 
gabled  and  verandahed  mansion  of  1874  ;  and  other 
residences,  noticed  separately,  are  Birkhall  and 
Monalteie.  The  chief  proprietors  are  the  Queen,  the 
Prince  of  Wales,  the  Marquis  of  Huntly,  Mr  Farquhar- 
son  of  Monaltrie,  and  Mr  Macl^euzie.  Giving  off  por- 
tions to  the  quoad  sacra  parishes  of  Glengairn  and 
Dinnet,  Glenmuick  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Kincardine 
O'Neil  and  synod  of  Aberdeen  ;  the  living  is  worth 
£297.  The  churches  are  noticed  under  Ballater, 
Glengairn,  and  Dinnet.  Five  public  schools — Bal- 
later, Birkhall  female,  Inchmarnock,  Kinord  female, 
and  Glengairn,  the  last  under  a  separate  school  board — ■ 
with  respective  accommodation  for  260,  43,  40,  53,  and 
60  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  180, 
19,  26,  46,  and  20,  and  grants  of  £162,  £28,  5s.,  £41, 
8s,,  £47,  17s.,  and  £31,  10s.  Valuation  (1843)  £5745, 
(1881)  £12,813,  16s.  Pop.  of  civil  parish  (1801)  1901, 
(1831)  2279,  (1861)  1668,  (1871)  2160,  (1881)  2109  ;  of 
ecclesiastical  parish  (1871)  1602,  (1881)  1672  ;  of  regis- 
tration district  (1871)  1995,  (1881)  1946.— OrtZ.  Sur.,  shs. 
65,  66,  75,  76,  1870-76. 

Glenmuir  or  Glenmuirshaw,  a  wild  moorish  vale  on 
the  eastern  border  of  Auchinleck  parish,  Ayrshire,  at  the 
head  of  Glenmore  Water,  near  the  meeting-point  with 
Lanark  and  Dumfries  shires,  and  immediately  S  of  Cairn- 
table.  It  contains  ruins  of  an  ancient  baronial  fortalice  ; 
and  it  was  the  scene,  at  Dalblair,  of  the  boyhood  of  the 
author  of  the  Cameronian' s  Dream,  beginning,  — 

'  In  Glenmuir's  \\ild  solitudes,  lengthened  and  deep 
Were  the  whistling  of  plovers  and  bleating  of  sheep.' 

Glennevis,  a  Lochaber  glen  in  Eilmallie  parish,  SW 
Inverness-shire,  ti-aversed  by  the  Water  of  Nevis,  a  clear 
and  rapid  trout  stream,  which,  rising  at  an  altitude  of 
2750  feet,  sweeps  llf  miles  south-westward,  westward, 
north-north-westward,  and  westward,  till  at  Fort- 
William  it  falls  into  Loch  Eil.  A  carriage  drive,  opened 
in  1880,  leads  7  miles  up  the  glen,  objects  of  interest  in 
which  are  a  vitrified  fort,  a  rocking-stone,  Samuel's 
Cave  (a  hiding-place  of  fugitives  from  CuUoden),  and 
the  Ben  Nevis  waterfall,  by  some  deemed  finer  than  the 
Falls  of  Foyers.  '  High  masses  of  rock  towering  to  the 
very  clouds,  and  covered  here  and  there  with  moss,  line 
both  sides  of  the  glen ;  while  streams  innumerable  come 
rushing  down  the  hillside  to  increase  the  volume  of  the 
crystal  Nevis. ' — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  53,  1877. 

Glennoe,  a  glen  in  Ardchattan  parish,  Argyllshire, 
traversed  by  the  Noe,  which,  formed  by  head  streams 
that  rise  on  the  northern  skirts  of  Ben  Cruachan,  runs 
2|  miles  west-north-westward,  till  it  falls  into  Loch 


GLENN7 

Etive  at  a  poiut  4.^  miles  NE  of  Taynuilt  station. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  45,  1876. 

Glenny,  a  burn  in  Port  of  Meuteith  parish,  Perthshire, 
running  2  miles  south-south-westward  to  the  Lake  of 
Meuteith  along  a  deep  and  tortuous  ravine. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  3S,  1S71. 

Glenny  Law.     See  Abernyte. 

Glenochil,  a  celebrated  distillery  in  Logie  parish, 
Clackmannanshire,  near  Menstrie  and  Glenochil  station 
on  the  Alva  branch  of  the  North  British,  li  mile  WSW 
of  Alva.  It  was  founded,  under  the  name  of  the  '  Dolls,' 
in  1760. 

Glenogil,  an  estate,  with  a  modern  mansion,  in  Tan- 
nadice  parish,  Forfarshire,  10  miles  NE  by  N  of  Kirrie- 
muir. Its  owner,  John  Leveson  Douglas  Stewart,  Esq. 
(b.  1S42 ;  sue.  1867),  holds  5524  acres  in  the  shire,  valued 
at  £510  per  annum.  Another  estate  of  Glenogil,  also  in 
Tannadice  parish,  and  also  with  a  mansion,  belongs  to 
Hugh  Lyon,  Esq.  (b.  1812  ;  sue.  1866),  holder  of  2100 
acres,  valued  at  £1472  per  annum. — Ord.  Sicr.,  sh.  57, 
1868. 

Glenogilvie,  an  estate  in  Glamis  parish,  Forfarshire. 
Bestowed  on  the  Ogilvies  about  1163,  it  belonged  in  the 
17th  century  to  the  famous  Graham  of  Claverhouse,  re- 
verted then  to  the  Douglases,  and,  in  1871,  was  sold  by 
the  Countess  of  Home  to  the  Earl  of  Strathmore.  See 
Glamis. 

Glenogle  (Gael,  glcann-eagal,  'valley  of  dread'),  a  glen 
ofBalquhiJder  parish,  Perthshire,  commencingJmileSSE 
of  Killin  station,  at  an  altitude  of  980  feet,  and  descend- 
ing 3;^  miles  south-south-eastward  to  Lochearnhead. 
Traversed  by  the  road  from  Callander  to  Killin,  and  by 
the  Callander  and  Oban  railway,  it  forms  a  close,  gloomy 
defile,  and  is  Hanked  on  the  E  side  by  Beinn  Leathan 
(2312  feet),  on  the  W  by  Meall  Sgliata  (2250).  Hun- 
dreds of  runnels  streak  its  cliffs,  which  look  to  have  been 
shattered  by  shock  of  earthquake  ;  its  bottom  is  encum- 
bered by  thousands  of  fallen  rocks  ;  and  it  commands, 
towards  its  mouth,  a  romantic  view  of  the  mountains 
around  the  upper  waters  of  Loch  Earn. — 07-d.  Sur.,  sh. 
46,  1872. 

Glenorchy  and  Innishail,  a  large  Highland  parish  in 
the  Lorn  district  of  Argyllshii'e,  almost  surrounding 
the  lower  waters  of  Loch  Awe,  and  containing  Bunawe 
village,  on  Loch  Etive ;  Cladich  hamlet,  on  Loch  Awe ; 
King's  House  Inn  (Glencoe),  at  the  northern  boundary ; 
and  Dalmally  village,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Orchy. 
The  last  has  a  station  on  the  Callander  and  Oban  rail- 
way (1880),  12  miles  W  of  Tyndrum  and  9  E  by  S  of 
Taynuilt,  these  stations  Ij'iug  just  beyond  the  eastern 
and  western  borders  of  Glenorchy.  Comprising  the 
ancient  parishes  of  Glenorchv  to  the  NE  and  Innishail 
to  the  SW,  united  in  161S,  it  is  bounded  NW  by  Ard- 
chattan,  N  by  Lismore  and  Appiu,  NE  and  E  by  For- 
tingall  and  Killin  in  Perthshire,  SE  by  Kilmorich  and 
Inverary,  SW  by  EOehrenan  and  Muckairn.  Its 
utmost  length,  from  NE  to  SW,  is  31J  miles ;  its 
breadth  varies  between  5J  and  13§  miles  ;  and  its  area 
is  231  square  miles  or  147,876J  acres,  of  which  6  acres 
are  tidal  water,  37  foreshore,  and  5898*  water.  This  large 
water  area  is  made  up  by  parts  of  Lochs  Awe  (2865J 
acres)  and  Laidon  (3564),  and  the  whole  of  Lochs  Tulla 
(697J),  Ba  (612J),  Na  h-achlaise  (183i),  Dochard  (844), 
etc.  The  Water  of  Tulla,  rising  in  the  extreme  E  of 
the  parish  at  2700  feet  above  sea-level,  winds  lOf  miles 
north-north-westward  and  west-south-westward  to  Loch 
Tulla  (2J  miles  x  5  furl.  ;  555  feet),  flows  Ig  mile 
through  that  lake,  and,  issuing  from  it  as  the  river 
Opxhy,  runs  164  miles  south-westward  to  Loch  Awe 
(lis  feet).  The  Orchy's  chief  affluents  are  the  Lochy', 
running  8J  miles  west-south-westward  from  Lochan  Bhe 
(6x1  furl.  ;  822  feet),  at  the  eastern  border,  near  Tyn- 
drum, to  a  point  li  mile  above  Dalmally  ;  and  the 
Stkae,  running  SJ  miles  south-westward  to  opposite 
Kilchuru  Castle.  'Through  Loch  Awe  our  stream  steals 
4|  miles  south-westward  and  west-north-westward;  and 
out  of  Loch  Awe,  as  the  river  Awe,  it  hurries  5  miles 
north-westward,  along  the  Ardcbattan  border,  through 
the  wild  Pass  of  Brander,  till  at  Bunawe  it  falls  into 


GLENORMISTON  HOUSE 

Loch  Etive.  Through  the  river  Ba,  rising  at  2300  feet, 
and  running  4^  miles  east-by-northward  to  isleted  Loch 
Ba  (957  feet),  thence  IJ  mile  to  Loch  Laidon  (924  feet), 
the  drainage  of  the  northern  or  desolate  Rannoch  Muip 
portion  belongs  to  the  basin  of  the  Tay ;  whilst  from 
the  SE  several  burns  run  southward  towards  Loch  Fyne. 
Tliose  parts  of  Glenorchy  around  Loch  Awe,  though 
hilly  everywhere,  are  hardly  mountainous,  the  Bunawe 
section  culminating  at  899  feet  above  sea-level,  and  the 
Cladich  section  at  1846,  while  lake  and  stream  are 
fringed  by  a  broadish  belt  that  nowhere  rises  to  500 
feet.  Elsewhere  the  parish  is  grandly  alpine,  being 
mainly  made  up  of  the  three  convergent  glens — '  Glen- 
strae,  deep,  hollow,  and  sombre,  and  still  full  of 
memories  of  the  lawless  MacGregors  ;  Glenorchy,  rock- 
bound,  green,  and  grand  ;  and  Glenlochy,  bleak,  cold, 
and  bare.  Each  has  its  own  dark  history,  and  its 
home-spun  collection  of  clan  legends,  fairy  traditions, 
and  fatherless  myths.'  Glenstrae,  coming  down  it,  is 
flanked,  on  the  right  hand,  by  *Ben  Lurachan  (2346 
feet),  *Meall  Copagach  (2656),  *Ben  Eunaich  (3242), 
and  *Ben  Chochail  (3216),  offshoots  these  of  huge  Ben 
Cruachan ;  on  the  left  by  Ben  Mhio-Mhonaidh  (2602), 
Ben  Donachain  (2127),  and  Creag  Mhor  (1162),  where 
asterisks  mark  those  summits  that  culminate  right  on 
the  confines  of  the  parish.  Glenlochy,  again,  on  the 
right  is  flanked  by  Ben  Udlaidh  (2529)  and  Ben  na 
Sroine  (2070) ;  on  the  left  by  *ileall  Odhar  (2046), 
*Ben  Chuirn  (2878),  *Ben  Loy  (3708),  and  Ben  Bhal- 
gairean  (20S5).  Higher  up,  on  or  close  to  the  Perth- 
shire border,  rise  *Ben  Odhae  (2948),  Ben  Bhreac-liath 
(2633),  *Ben-a-Chaisteil  (2897),  Ben  Doran  (3523), 
*Ben  Ckeaohan  (3540),  and  *Ben  Achalladee,  (3399) ; 
towards  King's  House  is  *Clach  Leathan  (3602).  The 
rocks  belong  to  tlie  Lower  Silurian  period ;  under 
Bunawe  are  noticed  the  granite  quarries.  The  soil  of 
the  lower  grounds  is  mostly  light  and  sandy,  not  want- 
ing in  fertility  ;  but  of  the  entire  area  less  than  3000 
acres  are  arable  or  woodland,  sheep  walks  and  deer- 
forests  making  up  the  rest.  (See  Blackmount.  ) 
Natives  were  the  Rev.  John  Smith,  D.D.  (1747-1S07), 
translator  of  the  Scriptures  into  Gaelic,  and  Duncan 
'Ban'  M'Intyi-e  (1724-1812),  'sweetest  and  purest  of 
Gaelic  bards,'  to  whose  memory  a  Grecian  temple  of 
granite  has  been  reared  on  a  hill  (544  feet),  1  j  mile  SW 
of  Dalmally.  The  chief  antiquities  are  noticed  separ- 
ately, under  Kilchurn  Castle,  Innishail,  Fraoch-Eilean, 
and  Achallader ;  as  likewise  are  the  mansions  of  Ard- 
vrecknish,  Inverawe,  and  Inchdrynich.  Four  lesser 
proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of  more,  and  Jive 
of  less,  than  £500  ;  but  much  the  largest  landowner  is 
the  Earl  of  Breadalbane,  who  takes  from  Glenorchy  the 
title  of  Baron.  This  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Lorn 
and  synod  of  ArgyU. ;  the  living  is  worth  £297.  There 
are  three  Established  places  of  worship — Glenorchy 
(1811  ;  570  sittings),  on  an  islet  in  the  Orchy  at  Dal- 
mally, a  plain  octagonal  church,  with  stumpy  square 
tower  and  many  curious  gravestones  ;  Innishail  (1773  ; 
250  sittings),  9  furlongs  NE  of  Cladich  and  5  miles  SW 
of  Dalmally  ;  and  Bridge  of  Orchy,  12  miles  NE  of 
Dalmally  and  Oj  NNW  of  Tyndrum.  There  is  also  a 
Free  church  at  Dalmally  ;  and  two  public  schools,  Dal- 
mally and  Cladich,  mth  respective  accommodation  for 
63  and  36  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of 
42  and  12,  and  grants  of  £59,  8s.  and  £25,  9s.  Valua- 
tion (1860)  £9184,  (1882)  £14,163,  7s.  9d.  Pop.  of  parish 
(1801) 1851, (1831) 1806,  (1861) 1307, (1871) 1054, (1881) 
1105,  of  whom  948  were  Gaelic-speaking  ;  of  Glenorchy 
registration  district  (1871)  752,  (1881)  76\.— Ord.  Sur., 
shs.  45,  46,  53,  54,  1872-77.  See  pp.  134-184  of  Dorothy 
Wordsworth's  Tour  in  Scotland  (ed.  by  Princ.  Shairp, 
1874) ;  'The  Heart  of  the  Highlands'  in  the  CornUll 
for  Jan.  1881  ;  and  '  Traditions  of  Glenorchy,'  by  Arch. 
Smith,  M.D.,  in  vol.  vii.  oiProcs.  Soc.  Ants.  Scotl.  (1870). 
Glenormiston  House,  a  mansion  of  the  first  quarter 
of  the  present  century  in  Innerleithen  parish,  Peebles- 
shire, within  4  mile  of  the  Tweed's  left  bank,  and  2 
miles  NW  of  Innerleithen  village.  The  estate,  which 
extends  from  the  Tweed  to  the  top  of  Lee  Pen  (1647 

193 


GLENFEOSEN 

feet),  is  finely  wooded,  and  during  tlie  last  hundred 
years  has  been  improved  at  a  cost  of  over  £30,000. 
Held  by  the  Stewarts  of  Traquair  from  1533,  it  was  sold 
in  1789  for  £8400,  in  1805  for  £9910,  in  1824  for 
£24,000,  and  in  1849  for  £25,500  to  William  Chambers, 
LL.D.  (1800-83),  the  well-known  writer  and  publisher, 
who  held  835  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £891  per 
annum. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  24,  1864. 

Glenprosen,  a  glen  and  a  quoad  sacra  parish  in  Kirrie- 
muir parish,  NW  Forfarshire.  The  glen  is  that  of 
Pkosen  Water,  rising  at  an  altitude  of  2750  feet  on  the 
western  slope  of  Mayar,  and  running  18  mUes  south- 
eastward through  the  northern  division  of  Kirriemuir 
and  along  the  borders  of  Cortachy,  Kingoldrum,  and 
Kirriemuir  proper,  till,  after  a  total  descent  of  nearly 
2400  feet,  it  falls  into  the  South  Esk  at  a  point  1|  mile 
SE  of  Cortachy  Castle.  The  quoad  sacra  parish,  com- 
prising the  northern  division  of  Kirriemuir,  was  con- 
stituted in  1874,  and  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Forfar  and 
synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns.  Its  church  stands  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Prosen,  9J  miles  NNE  of  Kirriemuir 
town  ;  and  a  public  school,  with  accommodation  for  50 
children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  50,  and  a 
grant  of  £35,  6s.  Pop.  (1881)  175.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  56, 
1870. 

Glenquaich.    See  Glengarry. 

Glenquaich,  a  glen  in  detached  sections  of  Dull, 
Weem,  and  Kenmore  parishes,  Perthshire.  It  is  tra- 
versed by  the  Quaich,  which,  rising  at  a  point  5J  miles 
S  by  E  of  Kenmore  vOlage  and  2700  feet  above  sea- 
level,  winds  7J  miles  eastward  to  the  head  of  Loch 
Fkeuchie  (880  feet).— Ord  &»■.,  sh.  47,  1869. 

Glenquharry,  a  burn  in  Kirkconnel  parish,  NW 
Dumfriesshire,  rising  close  to  the  Ayrshire  border  at  an 
altitude  of  1420  feet,  and  winding  4|  miles  southward, 
till,  after  a  descent  of  900  feet,  it  falls  into  the  Nith  at 
Kirkconnel  village.  Its  upper  clench  is  a  deep  and 
sequestered  recess,  flanked  by  desolate  moorlands,  and 
formed  a  frequent  retreat  of  Covenanters  in  the  days  of 
the  persecution. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  15,  1864. 

Glenquicken,  a  moor  in  Kirkmabreck  parish,  SW 
Kirkcudbrightshire,  3|  miles  E  by  N  of  Creetown.  A 
cairn  here  in  1809  yielded  a  rude  stone  cofBn,  contain- 
ing an  uncommonly  large  skeleton  ;  and  Glenquicken  is 
traditionally  said  to  have  been  the  scene  of  a  very 
early  battle,  probably  between  the  Caledonians  and  the 
Romans.  Near  it  are  a  stone  circle  and  a  well-preserved 
Roman  encampment. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  4,  1857. 

Glenquiech,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Tannadice 
parish,  Forfarshire,  7  miles  NNE  of  Kirriemuir.  Its 
owner,  John  Alex.  Sinclair-Maclagan,  Esq.  (b.  1833 ; 
sue.  1872),  holds  2216  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1071 
per  annum. 

Glenquithle.     See  Glendowachy. 

Glenquoich  or  Glenquiech.  See  Glengarry  and 
Quoicii. 

Glenranza,  a  narrow  glen  on  the  mutual  border  of 
Kilmore  and  Kilbride  parishes,  in  the  N  of  Arran, 
Buteshire.  It  is  traversed  by  the  Eanza,  an  impetuous 
stream,  which,  issuing  from  tiny  Loch  na  Davie  (1182 
feet),  runs  3§  miles  north-north-westward  till  it  falls 
into  the  head  of  Loch  Eanza.  It  is  joined  on  the  right 
side  by  Glenhalmadale,  and  above  that  point  is  some- 
times known  as  Glen  Easan  Biorach. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
21,  1870. 

Glenrath  Bum,  a  rivulet  in  Manor  parish,  Peebles- 
shire, rising  on  the  NW  side  of  Blackhouse  Heights  at 
an  altitude  of  2000  feet,  and  running  3j  miles  north- 
north-westward  till,  after  a  descent  of  1240  feet,  it  falls 
into  Manor  Water  opposite  Posso,  7  mUes  SSW  of 
Peebles.— Ord  Sur.,  sh.  24,  1864. 

Glenrianes,  the  narrow  vale  of  Dullan  Water,  and 
a  quoad  sacra  parish  in  Mortlach  and  Aberlour  parishes, 
Banffshire.  The  quoad  sacra  parish,  constituted  in 
1865,  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Aberlour  and  synod  of 
Moray ;  its  minister's  stipend  is  £120.  The  church, 
originally  a  mission  chapel  under  the  royal  bounty, 
stands  towards  the  head  of  the  glen,  5^  miles  SSW  of 
Dufftown  ;  and  a  public  school,  mth  accommodation 
194 


GLENROT 

for  102  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of 
42,  and  a  grant  of  £51,  9s.  Pop.  (1871)  466,  (1881) 
401,  of  whom  283  were  in  Mortlach  parish. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  85,  1875. 

Glenrosie,  a  glen  in  the  middle  of  the  E  side  of  Arran, 
Buteshire.  Commencing  at  an  altitude  of  1750  feet,  it 
descends  5J  miles  south-south-eastward  to  the  sea  at 
Brodick  Bay,  and  a  little  above  its  mouth  is  joined  by 
Glenshm-tg  and  Glencloy.  With  Goatfell  (2866  feet)  on 
the  E  and  Ben  Tarsuinn  (2706)  on  the  W,  its  upper 
reach  exhibits  sublimely  picturesque  scenery  ;  its  middle 
reach  displays  a  blending  of  grandeur  and  loveliness  ; 
and  its  lowest  reach  is  so  exquisite  as  to  be  called  Glen- 
shant — the  'vale  of  enchantment.' — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  21, 
1870. 

Glenroy,  a  narrow  precipitous  glen  in  Kilmonivaig 
parish,  Inverness-shire,  traversed  by  the  Roy,  a  salmon 
and  trout  stream  that  flows  14J  miles  south-westward, 
till  at  Keppoch,  SJ  furlongs  below  the  Bridge  of  Roy 
and  12f  miles  NE'of  Fort  William,  it  falls  into  the 
Spean,  descending  in  this  course  from  1100  to  290  feet 
above  sea-level.  It  lies  in  the  Lochaber  district ;  and 
its  great  interest  arises  from  the  three  distinctly-marked 
terraces,  known  as  the  '  Parallel  Roads  of  Glenroy,' 
which  can  be  traced  almost  continuously  on  both  sides 
of  the  valley.  Each  forms  a  gently  sloping  shelf  from 
3  to  30  feet  wide,  and  the  most  striking  characteristic 
of  all  is  their  absolutely  constant  level.  The  highest 
(1144  to  1155  feet)  can  be  traced  from  the  col  (1151 
feet)  at  the  head  of  Glenroy — which  forms  the  lowest 
part  of  the  watershed  between  the  Roy  and  the  Spey — 
to  Bohuntine  Hill,  near  the  mouth  of  the  glen.  'The 
second  shelf  (1062  to  1077  feet)  runs  parallel  to  the 
first,  but  can  be  traced  round  Glen  Glaster,  which  opens 
into  Glenroy  just  below  where  the  first  road  terminates. 
This  second  road  corresponds  in  height  to  the  col  (1075 
feet)  at  the  SE  end  of  Glen  Glaster,  which  is  part  of  the 
watershed  between  the  Glaster  and  the  FeitheU,  a  small 
tributary  of  the  Spean.  The  third  and  lowest  shelf 
(850  to  862  feet)  can  be  traced  right  round  Glenroy, 
Glen  Glaster,  and  Bohuntine  Hill,  and  away  eastward 
along  Glen  Spean  to  a  little  below  Loch  Laggan.  It 
corresponds  in  height  to  the  col  (848  feet)  at  MuckaU 
above  Loch  Laggan,  which  forms  part  of  the  watershed 
between  the  Spean  and  Mashie  Water,  a  tributary  of 
the  Spey.  In  Glen  Gloy,  to  the  W  of  Glenroy,  is  another 
similar  road  at  a  height  of  from  1156  to  1173  feet.  The 
col  at  the  head  of  this  glen,  wliich  looks  over  to  Glenroy, 
is  1172  feet  above  sea-level. 

The  constant  level  at  which  each  of  these  roads  re- 
mains suggests  at  once  that  they  have  been  the  shores 
of  former  lakes  or  seas.  The  marine  theory  advanced 
by  Darwin,  who  regarded  the  glens  as  former  arms  of 
the  sea,  is  not  now  generally  accepted.  The  hypothesis 
which  ascribes  them  to  fresh -water  lakes  was  first  brought 
forward  by  Macculloch  {Trans.  Geol.  Soc.  Land.,  vol. 
iv.,  1st  ser.),  and  taken  up  by  Sir  T.  Dick-Lauder 
{Trans.  Roy.  Soc.  Ediiib.,  vol.  ix.).  They  were  forced 
to  assume  the  former  existence  of  gigantic  barriers  of 
debris,  which  were  washed  away  by  the  water,  after  it  had 
been  kept  for  long  periods  at  the  heights  of  the  various 
shelves.  The  difficulties  of  this  theory  are,  first,  where 
did  the  dihris  come  from ;  and,  secondly,  where  did  it 
disappear  to,  without  leaving  even  the  slightest  trace  of 
its  existence.  Such  difficulties  do  not  exist  in  the  bold 
speculation  of  Agassiz,  who  finds  the  necessary  barrier 
in  a  huge  glacier  which  slid  down  from  Ben  Nevis. 
This  theory  is  supported  by  the  numerous  evidences  of 
former  glaciers  in  the  district.  Suppose  a  glacier  to  fill 
all  the  lower  portion  of  Glenroy  up  to  where  the  highest 
road  terminates  above  Glen  Glaster.  The  water  col- 
lected in  the  glen  could  escape  only  at  the  col  at  the 
head  of  Glenroy.  Let  the  glacier  now  recede  till  it 
reaches  the  points  where  the  second  road  terminates  on 
Bohuntine  Hill.  Glen  Glaster  will  now  be  open,  and 
the  waters  will  be  discharged  over  the  lower  col  at  the 
head  of  that  glen.  Let  the  glacier  now  recede  quite 
out  of  Glenroy,  and  stretch  across  Glen  Spean  below  the 
bridge  of  Roy.     The  water  will  then  fall  to  the  level  of 


GLENSALACH 


GLENSHIEL 


the  lowest  possible  outlet,  which  is  the  col  at  Mnckall 
above  Loch  Laggan.  See  K.  Chambers'  Ancient  Sca- 
ilargins  (1848),  and  Prof.  Tyndall's  Lecture  in  the 
Popular  Science  Kcvieio  (1876),  with  authorities  there 
citei.—Ord.  Siir.,  sh.  63,  1873. 

Glensalach,  a  glen  in  Ardchattan  parish,  Argyllshire, 
extending  5i  miks  north-north-westward  from  Loch 
Etive,  near  Ardchattan  House,  to  Loch  Creran,  near 
Barcaldiue.  It  takes  down  the  last  9  furlongs  of  the 
EsEAGAN  to  the  former  sea-inlet,  and  4J  miles  of  the 
Dearg  Abhainn  to  the  latter,  the  '  col '  between  these 
streams  having  an  altitude  of  516  feet. — Old.  Sur.,  sh. 
45,  1S76. 

Glensanda.    See  Castle-Mearnaig. 

Glensannox,  a  glen  in  the  NE  of  Arran,  Buteshire, 
commencing  among  the  stupendous  western  buttresses 
of  Goatfell  at  an  altitude  of  1680  feet,  and  winding 
round  the  northern  skirts  of  that  mountain  3J  miles 
east-north-eastward,  till  it  opens  to  the  Sound  of  Bute 
at  Sannox  hamlet,  7  miles  N  of  Brodick.  The  grandest 
glen  in  Arran,  surpassed  in  all  Scotland  by  only  Glencoe 
and  Coruisk,  it  was  pronounced  by  Dr  Macculloch  '  the 
sublime  in  magnitude,  simplicity,  obscurity,  and  silence. ' 
Near  its  mouth  is  the  burying-ground  of  a  small  pre- 
Keformation  monastery  ;  and  a  barytes  manufactory  was 
established  in  it  in  1839.— Orrf.  Sur.,  sh.  21,  1870. 

Glensassmm,  a  little  glen  in  the  E  of  FortingaU  parish. 
Perthsliire,  3  miles  S  bj-  W  of  Kinloch  Rannoch.  Its 
name,  signifying  the  '  Englishman's  glen, '  arose  from 
the  fact  that  during  the  War  of  Independence,  a  body 
of  English  passed  this  way  to  meet  an  opposing  force  of 
Robert  Bruce  at  Innerhadden. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  55, 1869. 

Glensas,  a  burn  of  Peebles  parish,  rising  in  the  S  of 
its  Selkirkshire  section  at  an  altitude  of  2100  feet  above 
sea-level,  and  running  6J  miles  north-north-eastward, 
till,  after  a  total  descent  of  nearly  1600  feet,  it  falls  into 
the  Tweed,  at  a  point  1|  mile  ESE  of  Peebles  town.  It 
stands  in  high  repute  as  a  trouting  stream. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  24,  1864. 

Glenshant.     See  Glenkosie. 

Glenshee,  a  hamlet,  a  glen,  and  a  quoad  sacra  parish 
in  Kirkmichael  parish,  KW  Perthshire.  The  hamlet, 
Spittal  of  Glenshee,  lies  1125  feet  above  sea-level,  at  the 
head  of  the  glen,  6J  miles  SSW  of  the  meeting-point 
with  Aberdeen  and  Forfar  shires,  31  NE  of  Pitlochrie, 
and  20  N  by  W  of  Blairgowrie,  under  which  it  has  a 
post  office.  Formerly  a  stage  on  the  great  military 
road  from  Perth  to  Fort  George,  it  was  a  halting  place 
for  refreshment  of  the  Queen  and  Prince  Albert,  on  the 
earliest  occasions  of  their  journeying  to  and  from  Bal- 
moral (1848)  ;  and  it  has  a  good  inn,  and  a  fair  on  the 
third  "Tuesday  of  October  o.  s.  The  glen,  commencing 
at  the  convergence  of  Glenbeg,  Glenhaitneich,  and  Glen- 
lochy,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  hamlet,  is  traversed  by  the 
Shee  or  Black  Water,  flowing  14|  miles  south-by-east- 
ward through  Kirkmichael  and  along  the  border  of  Alyth 
and  detached  sections  of  Caputh,  Rattray,  Bendochy, 
and  Blairgowrie,  till  at  Strone  House,  6  miles  NNW 
of  Blairgowrie  town,  it  unites  with  the  Ardle  to  form 
the  Erich t,  having  in  this  course  descended  from  1125 
to  480  feet  above  sea-level.  Glenshee  takes  up  the  pub- 
lic road  from  Blairgowrie,  through  grand  mountain 
scenery,  onward  to  the  Cairnwell  Pass  into  Aberdeen- 
shire ;  contains  three  old  castles,  a  famous  rocking  stone, 
and  numerous  cairns  and  ancient  Caledonian  stone 
circles ;  and  has,  at  its  head,  the  mountain  Ben 
Ghulbhuinn  (2641  feet).  The  quoad  sacra  parish  com- 
prises the  Kirkmichael  or  upper  portion  of  the  glen,  and 
is  in  the  presbytery  of  Dunkeld  and  synod  of  Perth  and 
Stirling ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £120.  Its  church, 
at  the  hamlet,  was  built  as  a  chapel  of  ease  in  1831  for 
a  population  of  400,  and  contains  nearly  400  sittings. 
A  public  school  stands  If  mile  SSE.  Pop.  of  g.  s.  parish 
(1871)  241,  (1881)  226.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  56,  1870. 

Glenshee,  the  glen  of  the  upper  part  of  Shochie  Bum, 
in  E  central  Perthshire,  commencing  4i  miles  E  by  S  of 
Amulree,  and  descending  7  miles  east-south-eastward, 
chiefly  along  the  mutual  border  of  Auchtergaven  and 
Moneydie  parishes  on  the  left,  and  the  detached  sections 


of  Redgorton  and  Monzie  parishes  on  the  right.  — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  47,  1869. 

Glensheil.     See  Glenshiel. 

Glenshellish,  an  estate,  with  a  modern  mansion,  in 
Strachur  parish,  Argyllshire,  3J  miles  NNE  of  the 
village. 

Glensherrig  or  Glenshurtg,  a  romantic  glen  in  the  E 
of  Arran,  Buteshire,  descending  2J  miles  east-north- 
eastward to  Glenrosie  at  Brodick  church. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  21,  1870. 

Glenshiel,  a  Highland  parish  of  SW  Ross-shire,  con- 
taining Clunie  and  Shiel  inns,  the  former  of  which, 
standing  2J  miles  above  the  head  of  Loch  Clunie,  is  52 
rnOes  SW  of  Inverness,  25  WSW  of  Invermoriston  on 
Loch  Ness,  22  WNW  of  Invergarry  on  Loch  Oich,  12 
ESE  of  Shiel  Inn  at  the  head  of  salt-water  Loch  Duich, 
21  ESE  of  Glenelg  on  Sleat  Sound,  and  28  ESE  of  Bal- 
macarra  on  Loch  Alsh.  The  parish  is  bounded  NW  by 
Kyle  Rhea  Strait  and  Loch  Alsh,  dividing  it  from  the 
Isle  of  Skye,  N  by  Loch  Duich  and  Kintail,  and  on  all 
other  sides  by  Inverness-shire,  viz.,  NE  by  Kilmorack, 
E  by  Kiltarlity,  S  by  Kilmonivaig,  and  SW  by  Glenelg. 
Its  utmost  length,  from  WNW  to  ESE,  is  24  miles  ;  its 
width  varies  between  5J  furlongs  and  9^  miles  ;  and  its 
land  area  is  57,320  acres.  Loch  a'  Bhealaich  (|  x  J  mile  ; 
1242  feet)  lies  just  beyond  the  northern  border,  in  Kin- 
tail  ;  and  the  northern  part  of  Glenshiel  is  drained  by  the 
clear-flowing  Croe,  formed  by  two  head-streams  at  an  al- 
titude of  180  feet,  and  running  5J  miles  north-westward 
and  westward  through  Glen  Lichd  and  along  the  Kin- 
tail  border  to  the  head  of  Loch  Duich  ;  whilst  the  river 
Lyne,  with  its  expansion,  Loch  Lyne,  winds  7J  miles 
eastward  along  the  southern  boundary  on  its  way  to  the 
Clunie.  The  river  Shiel,  rising  on  Sgurr  Coire  na 
Feinne,  close  to  the  southern  border,  at  2900  feet  above 
sea-level,  runs  If  mile  north-north-eastward,  then  8J 
miles  north-westward,  till  below  Shiel  Bridge  it  falls  into 
the  head  of  Loch  Duich.  Hill  Burton  describes  its  glen — 
'  a  narrow  valley,  pierced  by  the  deep,  roaring  torrent, 
with  precipitous  mountains  rising  on  either  side  to  a 
vast  height,  and  only  to  be  crossed  by  rugged  winding 
footpaths,  unknown  except  to  the  natives.'  Also  on 
Sgurr  Coire  na  Feinne,  within  5  furlongs  of  the  Shiel, 
the  Climie  rises  at  2500  feet,  thence  running  1§  mile 
north-north-eastward,  next  5J  miles  east-by-northward 
and  east-south-eastward  to  the  head  of  Loch  Clunie 
(4|  mUes  X  ^  mile  ;  606  feet),  whose  upper  and  broader 
IJ  mile  belongs  to  Glenshiel  parish.  Thus  on  the  self- 
same mountain  these  two  streams  have  their  source — 
the  Shiel  flowing  towards  the  Atlantic,  the  Clunie 
towards  the  Moray  Firth  ;  which  shows  that  here  is  the 
very  Dorsum  Britannice,  the  backbone  of  Scotland. 
And  truly  the  scenery  is  grandly  alpine,  chief  summits 
eastwards  to  N  of  the  Shiel  and  the  Clunie  being  Sgurr 
na  Moraich  (2870  feet),  pyramidal  Sgurr  Fhuaran  or 
Scour  Ouran  (3504),  *Beinn  Fhada  or  Ben  Attow  (3383), 
*Sgivrr  a'  Bhealaich  (3378),  and  *Garbh  ieac  (3673) ;  to 
S,  *Sgurr  Mhic  Bharraich  (2553),  the  'Saddle  (3317), 
*Aonach  air  Chrith  (3342),  and  Creag  a'  Mhaim  (3102), 
where  asterisks  mark  those  heights  that  culminate  right 
on  the  confines  of  the  parish.  Up  Glen  Clunie  and 
down  Glen  Shiel  runs  the  old  military  road  from  Fort 
Augustus,  with  a  summit-level  of  889  feet — a  height 
exceeded  by  that  of  the  pass  (1500  feet)  between  Strath- 
atfi-ic  and  Shiel  inn,  and  of  the  Ratagan  Pass  (1072) 
between  Shiel  inn  and  Glenelg.  The  western  division 
consists  of  Letterfearn  district,  extending  from  the  foot 
of  Glenshiel  proper  to  Kyle  Rhea,  and  exhibiting  a 
charming  mixture  of  vale  and  upland,  gentle  slopes 
along  Lochs  Alsh  and  Duich,  bold  headlands,  precipitous 
ravines,  rocky  eminences,  cultivated  fields,  and  clumps 
of  natural  wood.  Gneiss,  occasionally  alternating  ^uth 
mica  slate,  is  the  predominant  rock  ;  a  coarse-grained 
granite,  of  a  reddish  hue,  occurs  on  the  shores  of  Loch 
Clunie ;  and  two  beds  of  limestone,  very  impure  in 
quality,  are  in  the  S  of  Letterfearn.  The  soil,  in  the 
arable  parts  near  the  sea  is  generally  a  coarse  gravel,  and 
in  the  best  parts  of  the  bottoms  of  the  glens,  is  vegetable 
mould  incumbent  on  gravel  and  sand.     A  spot  in  Glen- 

195 


GLENSHIRA 

sbiel,  where  the  stream  is  now  crossed  by  a  bridge,  BJ 
mUes  SE  of  Shiel  Inn,  was  the  scene,  on  11  June  1718, 
•of  the  so-called  'Battle  of  Glenshiel,'  between  1500 
Jacobites,  under  the  Earls  Marischal  andSeaforth  and  the 
Marquis  of  TuUibardine,  and  1600  Hanoverians,  under 
General  Wightman.  The  latter  lost  21  men,  besides 
121  wounded;  but  on  the  following  day  the  Highlanders 
dispersed  among  the  mountains,  whilst  their  Spanish 
auxiliaries,  274  in  number,  surrendered  themselves  as 
prisoners  of  war  (Hill  Burton's  Hist.  ScotL,  viii.  341, 
edn.  1876).  Down  into  the  present  century,  the  entire 
parish  belonged,  with  Kintail  and  Lochalsh,  to  the 
Seaforth  family ;  but  now  Glenshiel  alone  is  divided 
among  three  proprietors.  It  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Lochcarron  and  synod  of  Glenelg ;  the  living  is  worth 
£198.  The  church,  in  the  eastern  part  of  Letterfearn, 
on  the  shore  of  Loch  Duich,  3  miles  NW  of  Shiel  inn 
and  8  SE  of  the  post-town  Lochalsh,  was  built  in  1758, 
and  contains  300  sittings.  Two  public  schools  of  recent 
erection,  Letterfearn  and  Shiel,  with  respective  accom- 
modation for  36  and  40  children,  had  (1881)  an  average 
attendance  of  19  and  24,  and  grants  of  £30,  lis.  6d.  and 
£35,  17s.  Valuation  (1860)  £3933,  (1882)  £4915,  10s. 
Pop.  (ISOl)  710,  (1831)  715,  (1861)  485,  (1871)  463, 
(1881)  424,  of  whom  400  were  Gaelic-speaking. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  72,  1880. 

Glenshira,  a  glen  in  Inverary  parish,  Argyllshire, 
traversed  by  the  Shira,  which,  rising  on  Ben'BUI  at  an 
altitude  of  2760  feet,  winds  11  miles  south-south-west- 
ward to  Loch  Fyne,  IJ  mile  NNE  of  Inverary  town. 
Its  population  has  much  decreased  since  the  introduc- 
tion of  sheep-farming.  See  Doulooh  and  Geare 
Abhainn.— Ocd  Sur.,  shs.  45,  37,  1876. 

Glenshirra  Lodge,  a  shooting-box  in  Laggan  parish, 
Inverness-shire,  at  the  foot  of  Loch  Crunachan  and  near 
the  right  bank  of  the  Spey,  4f  miles  W  by  S  of  Laggan 
Bridge.     It  is  on  the  Ardverikie  property. 

Glensligachan,  the  glen  of  the  rivulet  Sligachan  and 
of  Loch  Sligachan,  in  the  Isle  of  Skye,  Inverness-shire. 
Commencing  on  the  eastern  skirts  of  the  Cuchullins, 
it  descends  Si  miles  northward  to  the  head  of  Loch 
Sligachan,  and  thence  3J  miles  north-eastward  to  the 
sea  opposite  the  S  end  of  Baasay  island.  '  Desolate 
Glensligachan,  to  which  Glencoe  is  Arcady, '  in  its  upper 
reaches  is  all  narrow  and  partly  a  gorge,  flanked  on 
the  left  hand  by  Scuir-na-Gillean  (3183  feet),  on  the 
right  by  Glamaig  and  Marscow  (2000). 

Glensloy,  a  glen  in  the  N  of  Arrochar  parish,  Dum- 
bartonshire. Commencing  IJ  mile  S  of  the  meeting- 
point  with  Argyllshire  and  Perthshire,  it  descends  4^ 
miles  south-south-eastward  and  1§  mile  eastward  to 
Loch  Lomond,  opposite  luversnaid ;  contains  Loch  Sloy, 
and  takes  down  thence  Inveruglas  Water  to  Loch 
Lomond  ;  is  overhung,  near  the  head,  by  mountains 
rising  1611  and  1614  feet  above  sea-level ;  on  the  upper 
part  of  the  E  side,  by  Ben  Vorlich,  with  two  summits 
3055  and  3092  feet  high  ;  on  the  lower  part  of  the  E 
side,  by  a  mountain  2465  feet  high  ;  on  the  lower  part 
of  the  W  side,  by  Ben  Vane,  3004  feet  high  ;  holds 
Loch  Sloy  at  an  elevation  of  812  feet  above  sea-level ; 
and  exhibits,  from  head  to  foot,  a  series  of  imposing 
scenes. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  38,  1871. 

Glenspean,  a  Lochaber  glen  of  Kilmonivaig  parish, 
SW  l:iverness-shire,  traversed  by  tlie  Spean,  which, 
issuing  from  Loch  Laggan  (819  feet),  winds  20-J  miles 
westward  till,  after  a  descent  of  728  feet,  it  falls  at 
Bridge  of  Mucomir  into  the  river  Lochy  at  a  point  3 
furlongs  below  its  efflux  from  Loch  Lochy.  It  is  ribbed 
by  several  lateral  glens,  chiefly  Glengulbin  and  Glentreig 
on  the  left,  and  Glenroy  on  the  right ;  and  has  all  a 
grandly  Highland  character,  but  presents  much  variety 
of  feature  in  its  successive  reaches.  The  upper  part  is 
narrow,  moorish,  and  desolate ;  the  middle  parts  have 
some  amenities  of  wood  and  culture ;  and  the  lower  part, 
besides  having  a  comparatively  we'1-pcopled  breadth  of 
bottom,  derives  much  sublimity  from  the  immediate 
flanking  of  Ben  Nevis.  Many  spots,  particularly 
opposite  the  mouth  of  Glentreig,  show  scratchings 
and  polishings  by  ancient  glacier  action  ;  a  short  reach 
196 


GLENTILT 

between  Glentreig  and  Glenroy  exhibits,  at  an  altitude 
of  from  850  to  862  feet,  an  ancient  line  of  water  level, 
similar  to  the  Parallel  Roads  of  Glenroy  ;  and  a  reach 
of  2  miles  immediately  above  the  month  of  Glenroy,  is 
a  rocky  gorge,  traversed  by  the  Spean  in  deep  tumultuous 
current.— Or(^.  Sur.,  shs.  63,  62,  1873-75. 

Glen-Stewart,  a  seat  of  the  Marquis  of  Queensberry 
in  Cummertrees  parish,  S  Dumfriesshire,  5  miles  W  by 
N  of  Annan.     See  Kinmount. 

Glenstrae,  a  deep  and  sombre  glen  in  Glenorchy  and 
Innishail  parish,  Argyllshu-e,  traversed  by  the  Strae, 
which,  rising  at  an  altitude  of  1250  feet  above  sea-level, 
runs  8J  miles  south-westward  to  a  confluence  with  the 
Orchy,  5  furlongs  above  the  influx  of  the  latter  to  Loch 
Awe  at  Kilchurn  Castle.  Down  to  1604  it  was  the 
principal  fastness  of  the  clan  Macgregor,  who  held  it  as 
vassals  of  the  Earl  of  Argyll. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  45,  1876. 

Glenstrathfarrar,  the  glen  of  the  river  Farrar  in  Ross 
and  Inverness  shires.  Commencing  9  miles  E  of  the  head 
of  Loch  Carron,  and  descending  27|  miles  eastward  to 
Strathglass  in  the  vicinity  of  Erchless  Castle,  it  com- 
municates, at  the  head,  with  a  wild  moimtain  pass  (1800 
feet)  to  Lochalsh,  and  is  traversed,  in  its  middle  and 
lower  reaches,  by  a  carriage  road  to  Strathglass.  It  con- 
tains, immediately  above  the  upper  end  of  that  road.  Loch 
Monar ;  forms,  in  the  bottom  of  its  lower  reach  to  the 
extent  of  about  one-third  of  its  entire  length,  a  chain  of 
cii'cular,  meadowy  spaces,  flanked  by  bold,  rocky  moim- 
tains,  with  scenery  little  inferior  to  that  of  the  Trossachs ; 
contains,  in  two  of  these  circular  spaces,  the  lakes  Miulie 
and  Bunacharan  ;  and,  except  for  having  the  mansion 
of  Monar  Lodge  at  the  foot  of  Loch  Monar  and  a  shoot- 
ing-box of  Lord  Lovat  on  Loch  Miulie,  is  nearly  all  un- 
inhabited, and  reserved  for  deer  forests. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs. 
82,  83,  1882-81. 

Glentaggart  (Gael.  '  vale  of  the  priest '),  a  small  glen 
in  the  S  of  Douglas  parish,  Lanarkshire,  descending  2J 
miles  north-eastward  to  Glespin  Burn.  It  anciently 
contained  a  chapel. 

Glentanner.     See  Abotnb. 

Glentarf.     See  Tarf  Water. 

Glentarken,  a  glen  in  Comrie  parish,  Perthshire, 
descending  from  an  altitude  of  1150  feet  2  miles  south- 
by-eastward  to  Loch  Earn  (306  feet)  at  a  point  IJ  mile 
W  by  N  of  St  Fillans.  It  contains  a  huge  monolith,  the 
'  Great  Stone  of  Glentarken.'— Ore?.  Sur.,  sh.  47,  1869. 

Glentendal.    See  Glendhu,  Ardchattan,  Argyllshire. 

Glenterra  or  Glentirrow,  a  moorish  tract  in  Inch 
parish,  AVigtownshii'e,  5 J  miles  ENE  of  Stranraer,  and 
2J  SW  of  New  Luce.  It  contains  four  standing  stones, 
supposed  to  be  remains  of  an  ancient  Caledonian  stone 
circle ;  whilst  embedded  in  a  peat  moss,  3  feet  below  the 
sm'face,  is  a  regular  line  of  stepping-stones  about  ^  mile 
long,  an  artificial  passage  seemingly  through  a  swamp 
formed  previous  to  the  growth  of  the  peat  moss. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  3,  1856. 

Glentilt,  a  glen  in  Blair  Athole  parish,  N  Perthshire, 
traversed  by  the  Tilt,  which,  formed  by  Tare  Water 
and  two  other  head-streams  at  an  altitude  of  1480  feet, 
runs  13 J  miles  south-westward,  till,  after  a  descent  of 
nearly  1100  feet,  it  falls  into  the  Garry  at  Blair  Athole 
village.  Flanked  along  most  of  its  south-eastern  side 
by  the  huge  mass  of  Bekgloe  (3671  feet),  this  glen  is 
distinguished  from  every  other  in  the  Highlands  by  its 
straightness,  depth,  and  narrowness,  and  by  the  striking 
contrast  of  savage  wildness  at  the  upper  end  and  the 
beautiful  bii'ch  and  alder  woods  at  the  lower.  Marble, 
grey,  white,  and  green,  was  discovered  here  about  the 
year  1818 ;  and  to  the  geologist  Glentilt  is  classic 
ground,  as  having  towards  the  close  of  last  century 
furnished  evidence  for  the  Huttonian  or  denudation 
theory.  It  is  interesting,  too,  as  a  favourite  hunting- 
ground  of  Scottish  sovereigns — notably  of  James  V. 
(1529)  and  of  Queen  Mary  (1564).  And  Queen  Victoria 
writes  in  her  Journal  (12  Sept.  1844): — 'At  a  little 
before  four  o'clock  Albert  drove  me  out  in  the  pony 
phaeton  till  nearly  six — such  a  drive  !  Really,  to  be 
able  to  sit  in  one's  pony  carriage,  and  to  see  such  wild, 
beautiful  scenery  as  we  did,  the  farthest  point  being 


GLENTIEROW 

onlj-  5  miles  from  the  liouse,  is  an  immense  delight. 
We  drove  along  Glentilt,  through  a  wood  overhanging 
the  river  ;  and  as  we  left  the  wood,  we  came  upon  such 
a  lovely  view — Bengloe  straight  before  us,  and  under 
these  high  hills  the  river  Tilt  gushing  and  winding  over 
stones  and  slates,  and  the  hills  and  mountains  skirted 
at  the  bottom  with  beautiful  trees  ;  the  whole  lit  up  by 
the  sun  ;  and  the  air  so  pure  and  fine.  But  no  descrip- 
tion can  at  all  do  it  justice,  or  give  an  idea  of  what  this 
drive  was.  OIi !  what  can  equal  the  beauties  of  nature  ? 
What  enjoyment  there  is  in  them  !  Albert  enjoys  it  so 
much ;  he  is  in  ecstasies  here.  He  has  inherited  this 
love  for  nature  from  his  dear  father.  We  went  as  far  as 
the  Marble  Lodge,  a  keeper's  cottage,  and  came  back 
the  same  way. '  Once  more,  in  the  '  Third  Great  Expedi- 
tion,' on  9  Oct.  1861,  the  Queen  and  the  Prince  Consort, 
with  Prince  Louis  of  Hesse,  drove  up  Glentilt  as  far  as 
Forest  Lodge  (S  miles),  thence  rode  on  ponies  to  Bynack 
Lodge  (10  more),  and  thence  again  by  carriage  to 
Balmoral — in  all  having  travelled  69  miles  since  start- 
ing that  same  morning  from  Dalwhinnie. — Orel.  Siir., 
shs.  64,  55,  1874-69. 

Glentirrow.     See  Glenteera. 

Glentoo,  a  lake  in  Balmaghie  parish,  Kirkcudbright- 
shire, 5  miles  W  of  Castle-Douglas.  Lying  220  feet 
above  sea-level,  it  has  an  utmost  length  and  breadth  of 
4  and  23  furlongs,  and  contains  pike  and  perch. — OrA. 
Sur.,  sh.  5,  1857. 

Glen  Tower,  a  mansion  in  Fossoway  parish,  romanti- 
cally seated  on  a  gorge  of  the  river  Devon,  4  miles  above 
the  Caldron  Linn,  and  6  ENE  of  Dollar.  Built  in  1881 
in  the  Swiss  chateau  style,  it  is  the  seat  of  Major  Bald 
Harvey. 

Glentrathen.     See  Lixtr.a.then. 

Glentreig.     See  Teeig. 

Glentromie,  a  glen  in  Kingussie  and  Insch  parish, 
SE  Inverness-shire,  traversed  by  the  Tromie,  which, 
issuing  from  Loch  an  t-Seilich  (1400  feet)  in  G.-viCK 
Forest,  winds  lOJ  miles  north-by-eastward  till,  after  a 
descent  of  675  feet,  it  falls  into  the  Spey  at  a  point  1 J 
mile  ENE  of  Kingussie  station.  Overhung  around  its 
head  by  rounded  summits  of  the  Grampians,  rising  to 
altitudes  of  from  2500  to  3000  feet  above  sea-level,  Glen- 
tromie presents,  in  its  middle  reach,  a  somewhat  out- 
spread and  unattractive  aspect ;  but  contracts,  for  the 
last  4  miles,  into  a  picturescjue  wooded  defile,  flanked 
by  an  imposing  precipitous  acclivity.  It  takes  down 
a  road  from  Blair  Athole  to  Strathspey. — Ord.  Sui:,  sh. 
64,  1874. 

Glentrool.     See  Trool. 

Glentruim,  a  glen  on  the  mutual  border  of  Kingussie 
and  Laggan  parishes,  Inverness-shire,  traversed  by  the 
Truim,  which  rises  among  the  central  Grampians,  at  an 
altitude  of  2100  feet,  close  to  the  Perthshire  border,  and 
thence  runs  15§  miles  north-north-eastward,  till,  after  a 
descent  of  1280  feet,  it  falls  into  the  Spey  at  Inverna- 
haven,  6  miles  SW  of  Kingussie  village.  From  nearly 
its  head  to  its  foot  it  takes  down  the  great  high  road 
from  Perth  to  Inverness,  and  also  the  Highland  railway, 
with  Dalwhinnje  station  thereon,  and  presents,  for  the 
most  part,  a  moorish,  bleak,  and  cheerless  aspect.  Glen- 
truim House,  in  the  angle  between  the  Spey  and  the 
Truim,  7  miles  SW  of  Kingussie,  is  the  seat  of  Lieut. - 
Col.  Lachlan  Macpherson  (b.  1835  ;  sue.  1868),  who 
holds  21,000  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £2350  per 
annum.  Near  it  are  a  post  office  of  Glentruim  under 
Kingussie  and  a  public  school. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  63,  64, 
1873-74. 

Glen  Tulchan,  a  modern  mansion  in  Fowlis-Wester 
parish,  central  Perthshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Almond,  between  Buchanty  and  Glenalmond  College,  5 
miles  WNW  of  Methven  station.  Its  owner,  Grosme 
Eeid  Mercer,  Esq.  ofGorthie(b.  1812  ;  sue.  1853),  holds 
1753  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £2067  per  annum. 

Glenturret,  a  glen  of  Monzievaird  and  Strowan  parish, 
Perthshire,  traversed  by  Turret  Burn,  which,  rising 
on  the  eastern  side  of  Bex  Choxzie  at  an  altitude  of 
2000  feet  above  sea-level,  runs  8J  miles  south-eastward 
and  southward  (for  the  last  2  along  the  Crieff  border). 


GLOMACH 

till,  after  a  descent  of  1800  feet,  it  falls  into  the  Earn  at 
a  point  4  mile  W  of  the  town  of  Crieff.  It  embosoms, 
within  the  first  three  miles,  Lochan  Uaine  (1  x  4  furl.  ; 
1523  feet)  and  Loch  Turret  (1  mile  x  2J  furl.  ;  1127 
feet)  ;  presents,  till  2J  miles  below  the  latter,  a  con- 
tracted, rugged,  bleak,  and  wild  appearance  ;  but  there- 
after opens  into  a  beautiful  vale.  Glenturret  Lodge,  at 
the  NE  corner  of  Loch  Turret,  7  miles  NNW  of  Crieff, 
is  a  castellated  shooting-box  of  Sir  Patrick  Murray  of 
Ochtertyre.— OrfZ.  Sur.,  sh.  47,  1869. 

Glenurchy.     See  Glenorohy. 

Glenure,  a  glen  in  Ardchattan  parish,  Argyllshire, 
descending  3J  miles  west-north-westward  to  Glen  Creran 
at  a  point  3|  miles  NE  of  the  head  of  Loch  Creran.  Its 
upper  part  exhibits  sterile  grandeur.  Its  lower  part  con- 
tains Glenure  House,  which,  occupied  now  by  a  fanner, 
with  Barcaldine  still  gives  designation  to  Sir  Duncan 
Alexander  Dundas  Campbell,  third  Bart,  since  1831  (b. 
1856  ;  sue.  1880).— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  53,  1877. 

Glenurquhart,  a  finely-wooded  glen  in  Urquhart 
and  Glenmoriston  parish,  Inveniess-shire,  extending  9 
miles  eastward  from  Cokriemony  to  Drumnaprochit 
on  Loch  Ness,  and  traversed  from  head  to  foot  by  the 
Eneick,  which,  6  miles  above  its  mouth,  expands  into 
Loch  Meikle.  From  its  head  to  that  lake  Glenurqu- 
hart widens  into  a  fine  oval  vale,  and,  afterwards  con- 
tracting into  a  rocky  gorge,  continues  for  some  little 
distance  to  be  a  defile,  till  it  again  expands  with  in- 
creasing breadth  towards  its  mouth.  It  is  joined  on  the 
right  at  a  sharp  angle,  near  its  mouth,  by  the  glen  of 
the  CoiLTiE  ;  contains  a  number  of  mansions  ;  abounds, 
in  its  middle  and  lower  reaches,  with  picturesque 
natural  scenery,  richly  enhanced  by  artificial  embellish- 
ment ;  and  is  overhung,  along  most  of  the  right,  by  Meal- 
fourvonie  (2284  feet)  and  other  heights  of  Balmacaan 
deer-forest.  A  road  runs  up  it  14  miles  westward  to 
Invercannich  in  Strathglass.  See  Urquhart. — Ord 
Sur.,  sh.  73,  1878. 

Glenury  Distillery.    See  Stonehaven. 

Glenvale,  a  deep  romantic  ravine  on  the  mutual  border 
of  Strathmiglo  parish,  I'ife,  and  Portmoak  parish,  Kin- 
ross-shire, 3  j  miles  ENE  of  Milnathort.  Flanked  on  the 
N  by  the  West  Lomond  (1713  feet),  on  the  S  by  Bishop 
Hill  (1292),  and  itself  having  an  average  elevation  of 
500  feet,  it  ofi'ers  some  resemblance  to  the  ravine  of 
j\Iouse  Water  at  Caetland  Crags,  and  was  a  refuge  of 
Covenanters  in  the  days  of  the  persecution. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  40,  1847. 

Glenwhurry.     See  Glenquhaery. 

Glespin,  a  burn  iu  Douglas  parish,  Lanarkshire,  run- 
ning 5  miles  north-by-westward  to  Douglas  Water,  at  a 
point  If  mile  SW  of  Douglas  town. 

Glesterlaw,  a  place  on  Bolshan  estate,  in  Kinnell 
parish,  Forfarshire,  3  miles  NE  of  Friockheim.  Cattle 
fairs  are  held  at  it  on  the  last  Wednesday  of  April,  the 
fourth  Wednesday  of  June,  the  third  Wednesday  of 
August,  and  the  Monday  in  October  after  Falkirk. 

Glimsholm,  a  small  island  in  the  S  of  Orkney,  in  the 
W  end  of  Holm  Sound,  adjacent  to  the  NW  corner  of 
Burray,  and  2-|  miles  W  of  lioseness  in  Pomona. 

Glitness,  a  small  island  in  the  E  of  Shetland,  in  the 
lower  part  of  Catfrith  Voe,  6J  miles  N  by  E  of  Lerwick. 

Glomach  or  AUt  a'Ghlomaich,  a  mountain  burn  in  the 
E  of  Kintail  parish,  SW  Ross-shire,  issuing  from  Locli 
a'Bhealaich  (5J  x  2J  furl.  ;  1242  feet),  close  to  the  Inver- 
ness-shire border,  and  winding  3J  miles  north-north- 
westward till  it  unites  with  the  AUt  na  Doire  Gairbhe  to 
form  the  Eloh.aig.  In  an  alpine  ravine  it  makes  a  pro- 
found waterfall,  the  highest  and  wildest  in  Scotland,  at  a 
point  7  miles  ENE  of  Kintail  church.  With  a  total  de- 
scent of  350  feet,  the  fall  is  all  a  sheer  leap  till  50  feet 
from  the  foot,  encountering  there  a  bisection  or  slight 
interruption  from  an  outjutting  ledge  of  rock  ;  and  it 
terminates  in  a  pool  lying  750  feet  below  the  crests 
of  the  ravine.  During  times  of  drought  it  is  too  trivial 
in  volume  to  be  striking  in  itself,  but  it  always  pre- 
sents, in  connection  with  its  overhanging  heights  and 
other  siuToundings,  a  most  impressive  scene.  The  ap- 
proaches to  it,   on  any  side,   are  always  difficult  and 

197 


GLOOM  CASTLE 


G0LDBEBR7 


often  dangerous,  and  ought  never  to  be  attempted  witli- 
outaguide.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  72,  1880. 

Gloom  Castle.    See  Castle  Campbell. 

Gloomingside,  Cannel's,  or  Gannel  Bum,  a  stream  of 
TUlicoultry  parish,  Clackmannanshire,  springing  from 
Maddy  Moss,  on  the  NW  shoulder  of  King's  Seat  Hill, 
and  running  If  mile  south-south-westward,  till,  after  a 
total  descent  of  1100  feet,  it  unites  with  Daiglen  Burn 
to  form  the  Burn  of  Tillicoultry,  at  a  point  |  mile  N  by 
W  of  the  town.  Its  waters  were  thought  to  be  deadly 
to  trout  owing  to  the  presence  of  some  mineral,  till  in 
1833  Mr  Archibald  of  Tillicoultry  (then  a  boy  of  14) 
fished  it  by  accident  one  misty  day,  and  was  rewarded 
by  a  fine  basketful.  For  two  or  three  years  he  and  his 
brother-in-law,  Mr  John  Ure,  preserved  the  secret,  and 
caught  many  a  trout  of  from  J  to  f  lb. ;  but  now  the  burn 
has  been  nearly  fished  to  death,  and  is  not  a  whit  better 
than  any  of  its  neighbours. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  39,  1869. 

Glorat,  a  mansion  in  Campsie  parish,  Stirlingshire,  1 
mile  E  of  Lennoxtown,  and  IJNW  of  Milton.  Tlie  lands 
of  Glorat  came  by  marriage  to  Sir  John  Stirling,  armour- 
bearer  to  James  I. ,  by  whom  he  was  knighted  in  1430  ; 
and  his  descendant,  Sir  Charles-Eljihinstone-Fleming 
Stirling,  eighth  Bart,  since  1666  (b.  1832  ;  sue.  1861), 
holds  2700  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £2040  per  annum, 
including  £247  for  a  colliery.  A  finely  timbered  de- 
mfisne  lies  around  the  house,  and  contains  vestiges  of 
two  ancient  Caledonian  forts. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  31,  1867. 

GIoup,  a  sea-washed  cavern  in  a  cliff  of  St  Andrews 
parish,  Orkney.  Opening  from  the  sea,  it  measures  60 
feet  in  length  by  56  in  width,  and  in  the  reign  of  James 
V.  was  the  scene  of  the  suicide  of  Sir  James  Sinclair, 
natural  son  of  the  Earl  of  Orkney. 

Glower  o'er  'em.    See  Boerowstotjnness. 

Glupe.    See  Duncansbay  Head. 

Goales,  a  deep  romantic  fissure  in  Kilmany  Hill,  Kil- 
many  parish,  Fife.  It  is  traversed  by  a  brook,  almost 
dry  in  summer,  but  considerably  voluminous  in  winter, 
and  it  is  adorned  with  plantations  and  beautiful  walks. 

Goatfell  (an  English  corruption  of  the  Gael,  gaoth- 
ceann,  '  windy  head '),  a  mountain  of  Kilbride  parish, 
in  the  E  of  Arran,  Buteshire.  Extending  4J  miles 
northward  from  Brodick  Park  to  Glensannox,  and  3  west- 
ward from  the  coast  to  Glenrosie,  it  attains  an  altitude 
of  2866  feet  at  a  point  SJ  miles  NNW  of  Brodick  church  ; 
forms  a  grand  feature  in  the  scenery  of  the  Firth  of 
Clyde  ;  and  contains  many  striking  close  scenes  among 
its  own  glens  and  ravines.  Its  summit  commands  an 
almost  unrivalled  view — north-westward  to  the  Paps  of 
Jura  ;  northward  to  Ben  Cruachan  :  north-eastward  to 
Ben  Lomond ;  eastward  to  Ayrshire ;  southward  to 
Ailsa  Craig  and  the  coast  of  Ireland  ;  and  westward  to 
the  neighbouring  jagged  ridges  of  Caisteal  Abhail  (2735 
feet),  Cir  Mhor  (2618),  and  Ben  Tarsuinn  (2706).  Its 
S  end  is  bold  and  rugged,  yet  can  be  readily  scaled  by 
one  or  other  of  two  paths  from  Brodick  ;  its  E  side, 
flanking  a  narrow  belt  of  sea-board,  rises  thence  with 
abrupt  and  rugged  sternness,  and  presents  an  imposing 
aspect  to  the  Firth ;  its  N  end  and  its  W  side  ascend 
in  mural  cliffs  and  tremendous  acclivities  from  engird- 
ling glens ;  its  shoulders  converge  in  three  lines,  from 
S,  E,  and  ^Y,  into  a  heaving  plateau ;  and  both  its  highest 
summit  and  another  one  694  feet  lower,  have  the  form 
of  conical  peaks. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  21,  1870. 

Goatmilk,  a  hill  (561  feet)  in  Kinglassie  parish,  Fife, 
on  the  S  side  of  the  Vale  of  Leven,  9  furlongs  S  by  \V 
of  Leslie.  An  ancient  fort  that  stood  on  it  is  said  to 
have  been  one  of  a  chain  of  Danish  forts  extending  from 
Fife  Ness  to  Stirling. —OrtZ.  Sicr.,  sh.  40,  18B7. 

Goblin's  Cave.     See  Bealach-nam-Bo. 

Goblin's  Dell.     See  Ardtun. 

Gockstane  or  Goukstane,  a  burn  in  the  E  of  Close- 
burn  parisli,  Dumfriesshire,  rising  on  Gawin  Moor,  and 
running  5§  miles  south-eastward,  chiefly  along  the 
Kirkmahoe  border,  till  it  falls  into  the  Water  of  Ae  at 
a  point  i  mile  SSW  of  Kirkmichael  church. — Ord.  Sur., 
shs.  9,  10,  1863-64. 

Gogar,  a  station,  a  quondam  parish,  and  a  burn  in  the 
W  of  Edinburghshire.  The  station,  in  Ratho  parish,  is 
198 


on  the  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow  section  of  the  North 
British  railway,  6J  miles  WSW  of  Edinburgh.  The 
parish  since  1599  has  been  incorporated  partly  with 
Ratho,  partly  with  Kirkliston,  and  chiefly  with  Cor-  I 
storphine ;  and  contains  Gogar  House,  Gogar  Burn  1 
House,  Gogar  Mount,  Gogar  Park,  Gogar  Green,  Gogar 
Mains,  Gogar  Bank,  Gogar  Nursery,  and  Over  Gogar — 
all  within  1  or  2  miles  of  the  station.  Its  church  was 
older  than  that  of  Corstorphine,  and  a  small  part  of  it 
still  exists,  having  been  set  apart  soon  after  the  Refor- 
mation as  a  family  burying-place.  On  27  Aug.  1650, 
twenty-five  days  before  the  Battle  of  Dunbar,  Gogar 
was  the  scene  of  an  artillery  duel  between  the  Scotch 
under  General  Leslie  and  the  English  under  Oliver 
Cromwell,  a  skirmish  thus  described  by  the  Protector 
himself : — '  We  marched  westward  of  Edinburgh  towards 
Stirling,  which  the  Enemy  perceiving,  marched  with  as 
great  expedition  as  was  possible  to  prevent  us  ;  and  the 
vanguards  of  both  the  Armies  came  to  skirmish, — upon 
a  place  where  bogs  and  passes  made  the  access  of  each 
Army  to  the  other  difficult.  We,  being  ignorant  of  the 
place,  drew  up,  hoping  to  have  engaged  ;  but  found  no 
way  feasible,  by  reason  of  the  bogs  and  other  dilficulties. 
We  drew  up  our  cannon,  and  did  that  day  discharge 
two  or  three  hundred  great  shot  upon  them  ;  a  con- 
siderable number  they  likeivise  returned  to  us :  and 
this  was  all  that  passed  from  each  to  other.  Wherein 
we  had  near  twenty  killed  and  wounded,  but  not  one 
Commission  Officer.  The  Enemy,  as  we  are  informed, 
had  about  eighty  killed,  and  some  considerable  Oflicers. 
Seeing  they  would  keep  their  ground,  from  which  we 
could  not  remove  them,  and  our  bread  being  spent, — 
we  were  necessitated  to  go  for  a  new  supply :  and  so 
marched  off  about  ten  or  eleven  o'clock  on  Wednesday 
morning,' — first  to  the  camp  at  the  Braid  Hills,  and 
thence  to  Musselburgh  (Carlyle's  CroviweJl,  part  vi., 
letter  138).  Gogar  Burn,  rising  near  the  middle  of  . 
Kirknewton  parish,  winds  13  miles  north-north-east-  I 
ward  through  or  along  the  borders  of  Kirknewton,  1 
Ratho,  Currie,  Corstorphine,  and  Cramond,  till  it  falls 
into  the  river  Almond  at  a  point  3j  miles  WNW  of 
Corstorphine  village.  It  abounds  with  excellent  trout, 
but  is  strictly  preserved. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  32,  1857. 

Gogo  Water,  a  burn  in  Largs  parish,  Ayrshire,  rising 
in  two  head-streams  on  Box  Law  (1543  feet),  and  run- 
ning 5  miles  west-south-westward  to  the  Firth  of  Clyde 
at  Largs  town.  It  receives  midway  the  tribute  of  Greeta 
Water,  flowing  4J  miles  south-westward  from  the  HUl  of 
Stake  (1711  feet)  at  the  Renfrewshire  border.  The  trout 
of  both  streams  are  few  and  small,  although  preserved. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  30,  29,  1866-73. 

Goil,  a  fine  sea-loch  in  Lochgoilhead  parish,  Cowal, 
Argyllshire,  extending  6  miles  south-south-eastward  to 
Loch  Long  at  a  point  directly  opposite  the  head  oi 
Gare  Loch,  and  just  on  a  line  therewith.  Its  breadth 
varies  between  2  and  6^  furlongs.  At  its  head  and  along 
part  of  its  eastern  shore  is  the  village  of  Lochgoil- 
head ;  and  it  is  flanked  along  most  of  that  side  by  the 
rugged  and  lofty  mountain  group  of  Argyll's  Bowling- 
Green,  whose  cliff-like  heights,  for  a  considerable  way 
towards  the  mouth  of  the  loch,  rise  so  abruptly  as  to 
leave  no  space  for  a  road.  On  the  western  side  Loch 
GoU  is  flanked  by  Ben  Bheula  (2557  feet)  and  lesser 
intermediate  eminences ;  and  here,  towards  the  foot, 
stands  ruined  Carkick  Castle  and  a  village  of  recent 
growth.— Orrf.  Sur.,  sh.  37,  1876. 

Goin,  Loch,  or  Blackwoodhill  Dam,  a  lake  partly  in 
Fenwick  parish,  Ayrshire,  but  chiefly  in  Eaglesham 
parish,  Renfrewshire,  3^  miles  SW  of  Eaglesham  village. 
Lying  among  moorlands,  880  feet  above  sea-level,  it  has 
an  utmost  length  and  breadth  of  7  and  3  furlongs ; 
contains  excellent  trout  and  some  char ;  and  served  as 
a  dam  and  reservoir  to  send  ofi'  water-power,  through 
Dumvan  Dam  and  Holehall  Burn,  to  the  mills  of 
Eaglesham.  Lochgoin  farm  has  been  noticed  under 
Fenwick.— Orrf.  Sur.,  sh.  22,  1865. 

Goldberry,  a  precipitous  seaward  hill  (456  feet)  in 
West  Kilbride  parish,  Ayrshire,  9  furlongs  N  by  E  of 
Farland  Head.      Tradition  says  that  a  detachment  of 


GOLDIELANDS 


GOODIE  WATER 


Haco's  Norwegian  army,  in  12G3,  was  attacked  and 
routed  liere  by  a  body  of  Scotch  under  Sir  Robert  Boyd. 
—Ord.  Sttr.,  sli.  21,  1870. 

Goldielands,  a  Border  peelhouse  in  Hawick  parish, 
Roxburghshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Teviot,  nearly 
opposite  the  influx  of  Borthwick  Water,  2  miles  SW 
of  Hawick  town.  It  is  still  inhabited,  and  one  of  the 
best  preserved  peels  in  Scotland — square,  massive,  and 
of  venerable  aspect,  with  almost  as  much  masonry  in  its 
■walls  as  open  space  within.  Grose's  Antiquities  (1789) 
shows  two  towers ;  and  the  site  of  the  one  since  de- 
molished, close  by  the  other,  is  still  visible.  Its  lairds 
■were  descendants  of  Walter  Scott  (1532-96),  natural  son 
of  the  famous  Sir  Walter  of  Buccleuch  ;  and,  the  last  of 
them  dying  without  male  issue  towards  the  close  of  the 
17th  century,  the  estate  reverted  to  the  Buccleuch 
family.  The  first  of  the  line  ■was  probably  the  '  Laird's 
Wat'  of  the  Raid  of  the  Reidswyre  (1575) ;  and  his  son 
it  may  have  been  that  helped  in  the  rescue  of  Kinmont 
Willie  (1596).  'Gaudilands,'  too,  is  prominently  men- 
tioned in  the  ballad  of  Jamie  Telfer  o'  the  Fair  Dodhcad  ; 
but  it  seems  a  baseless  tradition  that  the  last  of  its 
lairds  was  hanged  for  reiving  over  the  gateway  of  his 
own  towET.—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  17,  1864. 

Goldielea,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Troqueer 
parish,  Kirkcudbrightshire,  3  miles  SW  of  Dumfries. 

GoUanfield,  a  mansion  in  Petty  parish,  NE  Inver- 
ness-shire, IJ  mile  ENE  of  Fort  George  station,  J  mile 
nearer  which  is  GoUanfield  village.  It  is  a  seat  of 
Archibald  Orr-Ewing,  Esq.,  M.P.,  of  Ballikinrain. 

GoUochy,  a  burn  in  Rathven  parish,  NW  Banffshire, 
running  4  miles  north-by-westward  to  the  sea,  between 
Buckie  and  Port  Gordon.  A  chalybeate  spring  is  near 
its  mouth,  and  a  distillery  was  formerly  on  its  banks. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  95,  1876. 

Golspie,  a  village  and  a  parish  on  the  E  coast  of 
Sutherland.  The  village,  standing  at  tlie  mouth  of 
Golspie  Burn,  has  a  station  on  the  Sutherland  railway, 
17  miles  SW  of  Helmsdale,  26i  ENE  of  Bouar  Bridge, 
and  84J  N  by  E  of  Inverness.  It  ranks  as  a  sub-port 
and  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  but  consisted  of  only 
a  few  mean  fisher  huts,  till,  early  in  the  present  cen- 
tury, it  began  to  undergo  great  change,  and  now  it  is 
one  of  the  neatest  and  largest  villages  in  the  N  of 
Scotland,  comprising  a  wide  street  J  mile  in  length, 
with  good  substantial  houses,  many  of  them  embel- 
lished with  gardens.  It  has  a  post  office,  with  money 
order,  savings '  bank,  insurance,  and  telegraph  depart- 
ments, branches  of  the  British  Linen  Co.  and  Aber- 
deen Town  and  County  Banks,  offices  or  agencies 
of  8  insurance  companies,  a  commodious  and  pic- 
turesquely-situated hotel,  a  handsome  memorial  foun- 
tain of  the  late  Duchess  of  Sutherland,  a  custom-house 
office,  a  public  reading-room,  and  fairs  on  the  Saturday 
of  April,  of  May,  and  of  October  before  Beauly.  The 
parish  church,  at  the  NE  end  of  the  village,  beside 
Golspie  Burn,  was  built  in  1738,  and,  as  enlarged  in 
1751,  contains  565  sittings.  A  Free  church  stands  at 
the  SW  end,  near  the  shore.  Pop.  (1841)  491,  (1861) 
876,  (1871)  1074,  (1881)  956. 

Anciently  called  Culmailie,  the  parish  contains  also 
the  hamlet  of  Baokies  and  the  village  of  Little  Ferry, 
3i  miles  SSW  of  Golspie  village,  at  the  mouth  of  Loch 
Fleet,  where  the  Duke  of  Sutherland  has  built  a  con- 
venient pier,  accessible  at  low  water.  It  is  bounded  W 
by  the  Kinnauld  section  of  Dornoch  and  by  Rogart,  N 
and  NE  by  Clyne,  SE  by  Dornoch  Firth,  and  S  and 
SW  by  Loch  Fleet  and  the  river  Fleet,  dividing  it  from 
Dornoch.  Its  greatest  length,  from  ENE  to  WSW,  is 
is  7i  miles  ;  its  utmost  breadth,  from  NW  to  SE,  is  6J 
miles  ;  and  its  area  is  21,125J  acres,  of  which  768J  are 
foreshore,  and  240i  water.  The  Fleet  flows  2  miles  east- 
south-eastward  along  the  Dornoch  border  to  the  head 
of  salt-water  Loch  Fleet,  which,  SJ  miles  long  and  from 
li  furlong  to  Ig  mile  broad,  opens  beyond  Little  Ferry 
to  Dornoch  Firth  ;  and  to  Loch  Fleet,  near  Balblair, 
Culmailie  Burn  runs  4f  miles  south-eastward,  rising  at 
an  altitude  of  1000  feet,  and  passing  through  Loch 
Lundie  (7  x  U  furl.  ;  556  feet).     Golspie  Burn  issues 


from  Loch  nan  Corn  (4J  x  3J  furl.  ;  1155  feet),  near 
the  northern  border,  and  thence  runs  6J  miles  south- 
eastward to  the  sea  along  Dunrobin  Glen,  which,  flanked 
by  mountains  in  its  upper  and  middle  reaches,  expands 
in  its  lower  into  a  beautiful  vale.  Three  lakes  besides 
those  mentioned  are  Loch  Unes  (IJ  x  J  furl.),  on  Ferry 
Links;  Loch  nan  Caorach  (2  x  f  furl.),  towards  the 
middle  of  the  parish  ;  and  isleted  Lochan  t-Salachaidh 
(5  X  IJ  furl.  ;  552  feet),  on  the  Rogart  border.  Except 
for  a  flat  triangular  tract  to  the  SE  of  the  high  road  and 
the  railway,  the  surface,  almost  all  of  it,  is  hilly  or  even 
mountainous,  attaining  600  feet  at  Creag  Mhor,  700  at 
Silver  Rock,  902  at  Aberscross  Hill,  1256  at  statue- 
crowned  Ben-a-Bhragie,  1464  at  Ben  Lundie,  1220 
at  Cnoc  na  Gamha,  1239  at  Cagar  Feosaig,  1706  at  Ben 
Horn,  and  1326  at  Meall  Odhar,  of  which  the  three 
last  culminate  right  on  the  Clyne  border.  The  landward 
part  of  the  parish  consists  of  gneissose  rocks  dipping 
SE,  overlaid  unconformably  by  rocks  belonging  to  the 
middle  division  of  the  Old  Red  sandstone,  of  which  all  the 
hills  here  mentioned  are  composed.  Above  these  there 
lies  a  belt  of  Jurassic  rocks,  forming  reefs  exposed  at  low 
water,  and  extending  from  Lower  Lias  to  Upper  Middle 
bclo^w  Dunrobin,  and  Lower  Oolite  sandstone  (white)  at 
the  eastern  boundary  of  the  parish.  The  soil  on  the 
arable  lands  ranges  from  very  light  sand  to  medium 
clay,  the  best  and  most  general  being  loam  with  a  slight 
admixture  of  claj'.  The  parisli  is  a  better  agricultiu'al 
district  than  any  in  the  county,  extensive  reclamations 
having  been  carried  out  since  1809,  so  that  now  above 
2000  acres  are  regularly  or  occasionally  in  tillage,  besides 
some  800  under  wood.  The  coast  to  the  NE  of  Golspie 
village  is  mostly  rocky ;  to  the  SW,  is  low  and  sandy, 
fringed  with  links.  Gillander's  Cave  is  in  the  NE  dis- 
trict, and  Torquil's  Cave  in  a  hill  above  Dunrobin 
Castle.  Very  good  red  sandstone  has  been  worked  in 
two  quarries,  white  sandstone  in  one,  and  coal  also 
exists.  The  chief  antiquities  are  remains  of  an  ancient 
Caledonian  stone  circle,  hut-circles,  and  graves,  an 
eirde-house,  vestiges  of  five  Pictish  towers,  a  richly 
carved  stone,  with  cross,  and  ruins  of  a  chapel. 
Dunrobin  Castle  has  been  noticed  separately  ;  and  the 
Duke  of  Sutherland  holds  nearly  all  the  parish.  It  is 
in  the  presbytery  of  Dornoch  and  synod  of  Sutherland 
and  Caithness  ;  the  living  is  worth  £281.  The  two 
public  schools  of  Backies  and  Golspie,  with  respective 
accommodation  for  68  and  260  children,  had  (1881) 
an  average  attendance  of  32  and  134,  and  grants  of 
£26,  4s.  and  £94,  18s.  Valuation  (1860)  £4841,  (1882) 
£6204,  13s.,  plus  £1366  for  10|  miles  of  railway.  Pop. 
(1801)  1616,  (1831)  1149,  (1861)  1615,  (1871)  1804, 
(1881)  1556,  of  whom  742  were  Gaelic-speaking.— 0«Z. 
Sur.,  sh.  103,  1878. 

Golyn.     See  Gullane. 

Gometra,  an  island  in  Kilninian  and  Kilmore  parish, 
Argyllshire,  on  the  S  side  of  Loch  Tuadh,  immediately 
W  of  Ulva,  and  2  miles  NNE  of  Staffa.  Measur- 
ing 2  miles  by  1,  it  is  separated  from  Ulva  by  only  a 
narrow  sti-ait,  oftener  dry  than  under  water,  and  com- 
prises a  considerable  extent  of  arable  land,  ■with  fer- 
tile loamy  soil.  Elsewhere  it  consists  of  eruptive  rocks, 
that  rise  to  a  height  of  800  feet,  and  present  a  skirt  of 
basaltic  columns,  with  a  receding  series  of  terraces.  It 
has  two  harbours,  one  on  the  N,  the  other  on  the  S ; 
and  is  an  excellent  fishing  station.  Pop.  (1837)  168, 
(1861)  23,  (1871)  26,  (1881)  30. 

Gonachan,  a  hamlet  and  a  burn  in  Fintry  parish, 
Stirlingshire.  The  hamlet  lies  at  the  mouth  of  the 
burn,  5  furlongs  E  by  S  of  Fintry  church.  The  burn, 
rising  near  the  watershed  of  Canipsie  Fells,  at  an  altitude 
of  1550  feet,  close  to  the  boundary  with  Campsie  parish, 
runs  3J  miles  north-eastward  to  Endrick  Water  at  the 
hs^mlet.— Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  30,  31,  1866-67. 

Gonar,  a  burn  of  Aberdour  (detached)  and  T3Tie 
parishes,  NE  Aberdeenshire,  running  2  miles  south- 
south-eastward  to  North  Ugie  Water  at  a  point  2i  miles 
ENE  of  New  Pitsligo. 

Goodie  Water,  a  sluggish  stream  of  S  Perthshire, 
issuing  from  the  Lake  of  Monteith,   and  winding  8| 

199 


GORANBERRY 

miles  east-south-eastward  through  the  parishes  of  Port 
of  Monteith,  Kincardine  (detached),  and  Kilmadocl'C,  till 
it  falls  into  the  Forth  at  a  point  1^  mile  NW  of  Gar- 
gunnock  station.  It  contains  fine  red-fleshed  trout ; 
expanded  formerly  into  a  lacustrine  marsh,  called 
Goodie  Lake  ;  and  was  the  scene  of  a  serious  disaster  to 
the  Argyll  men  in  the  military  events  of  1646. — Ord. 
Sur.,  shs.  38,  39,  1871-69. 

Goranberry.     See  Castleton,  Roxburghshire. 

Gorbals.    See  Glasgow. 

Gordon,  a  village  and  a  parish  in  the  W  of  Merse 
district,  SW  Berwickshire.  The  village.  West  Gordon, 
stands  500  feet  above  sea-level,  8  miles  NW  by  N 
of  Kelso  ;  whilst  its  station,  on  the  Berwickshire  loop- 
line  of  the  North  British,  is  lOJ  miles  NNE  of  St  Bos- 
wells,  6  ENE  of  Earlston,  4  WSW  of  Greenlaw,  and  llj 
WSW  of  Duns.  It  consists  of  a  long  street,  containing 
some  good  shops  and  dwelling-houses  ;  is  surrounded 
with  small  enclosures  belonging  to  the  inhabitants ;  and 
has  a  post  office.     Pop.  (1871)  336,  (1881)  302. 

The  parish  anciently  comprehended  Dirrington  Laws 
district,  now  annexed  to  Longformacus,  and  anotlier 
district  now  forming  part  of  Westruther.  It  is 
bounded  NE  and  E  by  Greenlaw,  SE  by  Hume,  S 
by  Earlston,  W  by  Legerwood,  and  NW  by  Leger- 
wood  and  Westruther.  Its  utmost  length,  from  E  by 
N  to  W  by  S,  is  6|  miles  ;  its  utmost  breadth,  from 
N  to  S,  is  4§  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  9739  acres,  of 
which  255  are  water.  Eden  Water  winds  2j  miles  east- 
north-eastward  along  the  north-western  border,  then  4J 
miles  south-by-eastward  across  the  interior ;  whilst 
Bl.ackaddeu  Water  traces  1;^  mile  of  the  boundary  with 
Greenlaw.  The  surface,  gently  undulating,  but  higher 
for  the  most  part  than  any  district  in  the  eastern  divi- 
sion of  the  Merse,  declines  to  450  feet  above  sea-level 
along  the  Eden,  thence  rising  to  666  feet  near  East 
Gordon,  782  near  Rumbleton  Law,  731  near  Hexpath, 
619  near  Fallside,  891  at  an  ancient  camp  near  the  NW 
border,  and  788  near  Huntlywood.  The  rocks  are 
partly  Devonian,  chiefly  Silurian ;  and  much  of  the  land 
has,  since  the  opening  of  the  present  century,  been  re- 
claimed from  moss  or  moor  to  a  state  of  high  cultivation. 
Some  two-thirds  of  the  entire  area  now  are  arable ;  500 
acres  are  under  wood  ;  and  the  rest  is  pastoral  or  waste. 
From  the  12th  till  early  in  the  14th  century  this  parish 
was  the  original  seat  of  the  Gordons,  ancestors  of  the 
Duke  of  Piichmond  and  Gordon  and  of  the  Marquis  of 
Huntly ;  and  a  farm  in  its  western  division  retains  to  this 
day  the  name  of  Huntlywood.  Greenknowe  Tower,  now 
a  fragmentary  ruin,  was  the  residence  of  Walter  Pringle, 
a  zealous  Covenanter.  Six  proprietors  hold  each  an 
annual  value  of  £600  and  upwards,  4  of  from  £50  to 
£100,  and  7  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Gordon  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Earlston  and  synod  of  Merse  and  Teriot- 
dale ;  the  living  is  worth  £241.  The  ancient  church, 
St  Michael's,  was,  in  1171,  transferred  by  the  monks  of 
Coldingham  to  those  of  Kelso  in  exchange  for  the 
church  of  Earlston.  The  present  parish  church,  built 
in  1763,  contains  450  sittings  ;  a  Free  church  contains 
250  ;  and  a  public  school,  with  accommodation  for  130 
children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  105,  and 
a  grant  of  £78,  10s.  Valuation  (1865)  £8347,  9s.  lid.  ; 
(1882)  £10,063,  6s.  9d.  Pop.  (1801)  800,  (1831)  882, 
(1861)  931,  (1871)  876,  (1881)  832.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  25, 
1865. 

Gordon  Arms,  an  inn  in  Yarrow  parish,  Selkirkshire, 
on  Yarrow  Water,  at  the  intersection  of  the  road  from 
Selkirk  to  Moffat  with  that  from  Tushielaw  to  Inner- 
leithen, 13  miles  WSW  of  Selkirk.  It  is  a  favourite 
anglers'  haunt. 

Gordon  Castle,  the  Scottish  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Rich- 
mond and  Gordon,  in  Bellie  parish,  at  the  mutual  bor- 
der of  Banff  and  Elgin  shires,  5  furlongs  E  of  the  Spey's 
right  bank  and  1  mile  NNE  of  Focliabers.  Alexander 
Seton,  elder  son  of  the  daughter  and  heiress  of  Sir  Adam 
Gordon,  took  the  name  of  Gordon  in  1449,  when  he  was 
made  first  Earl  of  Huntly.  He  acquired,  through 
marriage,  the  lands  of  Bogygeich  or  Bog-of-Gight ;  and 
by  his  son  and  successor,  George,  high  chancellor  of 
200 


GORDONSTOWN 

Scotland  in  1498,  Bog-of-Gight  Castle  was  founded. 
Richard  Franck  describes  it  in  the  17th  century  as  a 
'  palace  all  built  with  stone,  facing  the  ocean ;  whose 
fair  front — set  prejudice  aside — worthily  deserves  an 
Englishman's  applause  for  her  lofty  and  majestic  turrets, 
that  storm  the  air  and  seemingly  make  dints  in  the 
very  clouds.'  As  Bog-of-Gight  the  castle  figures  in  the 
history  of  the  six  Earls  of  Huntly  (1449-1599)  and  the 
four  Marquises  of  Huntly  (1599-1684),  as  Gordon  Castle 
in  that  of  the  five  Dukes  of  Gordon  (1684-1836),  the 
fourth  of  whom  was  author  of  Cauld  Kail  in  Aberdeen, 
while  his  butler,  William  Marshall,  composed  the 
famous  air  of  Tulloclujorum.  The  '  Cocks  of  the  North ' 
or  'Gudemen  of  the  Bog,'  as  these  northern  magnates 
were  styled,  were  a  dynasty  famous  for  adherence  to  the 
Catholic  faith  and  to  the  house  of  Stewart ;  their  names 
are  associated  with  those  of  Brechin  (1452),  Flodden 
(1513),  Pinkie  (1547),  Corrichie  (1562),  Donibristle 
(1592),  Glenlivet  (1594),  Frendraught  (1630),  Edinburgh 
Castle  (1689),  and  Sheriffmuir  (1715).  The  dukedom 
expired  with  the  fifth  Duke  in  1836,  when  the  mar- 
quisate  of  Huntly  devolved  on  his  fifth  cousin  once 
removed,  the  Earl  of  Aboyne  ;  but  the  greater  part  of 
the  Gordon  estates  were  inherited  by  his  maternal 
nephew,  Charles,  fifth  Duke  of  Richmond  and  Lennox 
(ere.  1675).  In  1876  the  title  Duke  of  Gordon,  in  the 
peerage  of  the  United  Kingdom,  was  revived  in  favour 
of  Charles  Henry  Gordon-Lennox,  present  and  sixth 
Duke  of  Richmond  (b.  1818  ;  sue.  1860),  who  holds 
269,291  acres  in  Scotland,  valued  at  £60,390  per  annum, 
viz.,  159,951  in  Banffshire  (£23,842),  69,660  in  Aber- 
deenshire (£24,748),  12,271  in  Elginshire  (£10,618), 
and  27,409  in  Inverness-shire  (£1182). 

Almost  rebuilt  by  the  fourth  Duke  of  Gordon  towards 
the  close  of  last  century,  from  designs  by  Baxter  of 
Edinburgh,  and  consisting  of  hard  white  Elgin  free- 
stone, Gordon  Castle  presents  a  northern  facade  568  feet 
long — a  four-storied  centre,  connected  by  galleries  with 
E  and  W  two-storied  wings.  The  wliole  is  battle- 
mented  ;  and,  behind,  the  original  six-storied  tower  of 
Bog-of-Gight  rises  to  a  height  of  84  feet.  The  interior 
contains  a  valuable  library,  magnificent  dining  and 
drawing  rooms,  etc.  ;  and  is  richly  adorned  with  marble 
statues  and  busts,  portraits,  and  other  paintings.  The 
family  portraits  include  one  of  the  Princess  Annabella, 
James  I.'s  daughter  and  second  Countess  of  Huntly,  and 
another,  by  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds,  of  the  beautiful  fourth 
Duchess.  A  beech,  a  lime-tree,  and  two  sycamores 
divide  the  honours  of  the  beautifully-wooded  deer-park 
and  policies,  the  former  1300  acres  in  extent.  The  chief 
approach,  on  the  high  road  between  the  Spey  and  Focha- 
bers, is  by  a  lofty  battlemented  archway  between  two 
domes.  Thence  the  road  winds  for  a  mile  through  lawn 
and  shrubbery  and  spreading  trees  until  it  is  lost  in  an 
oval  before  the  castle,  which,  though  it  stands  on  a  flat 
nearly  4  miles  distant  from  the  Moray  Firth,  commands  a 
finer  view  than  one  might  look  for — of  the  wooded  plain, 
the  Spey  glittering  onwards  to  the  sea,  and  the  village 
and  shipping  of  Garmouth. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  95,  1876. 
See  Huntly,  Aboyne,  and  Alvie  ;  the  History  of  the 
Famihi  of  Gordo7i,  by  William  Gordon  (2  vols.,  Edinb., 
1726-27)  and  C.  A.  Gordon  (Edinb.  1754) ;  and  Lachlan 
Shaw's  History  of  the  Province  of  Moray  (1775  ;  3d  ed., 
Glasg.,  1882). 

Gordon  Place,  a  village  in  Dyce  parish,  Aberdeen- 
shire, adjacent  to  Dyce  Junction,  6:^  miles  NW  of  Aber- 
deen.    Pop.,  with  Dyce  village,  (1871)  353,  (1881)  561. 

Gordon,  Port.     See  Port  Gordon. 

Gordonsburgh.     See  Maryburgh. 

Gordon's  Mills,  a  small  village  in  Resolis  parish, 
Cromartyshire,  on  the  S  shore  of  Cromarty  Firth,  at 
the  mouth  of  Resolis  Burn,  2  miles  S  of  Invergorden. 
It  had  an  establishment  which  was  first  a  snuff  manu- 
factory, and  afterwards  a  wool-carding  mill. 

Gordonstown,  a  mansion  in  Drainie  parish,  Elgin- 
shire, IJ  mile  from  the  coast,  and  5J  miles  NNW  of 
Elgin.  The  estate  was  purchased  in  1636  and  folloiring 
years  by  the  second  son  of  the  eleventh  Earl  of  Suther- 
land, Sir  Robert  Gordon,  vice-chamberlain  of  Scotland 


GORDONSTOWN 


GOUROCE 


anil  a  lord  of  the  piivy  council,  who,  on  26  May  1625, 
had  been  created  a  baronet,  this  being  the  premier 
Scottish  baronetcy.  His  grandson  is  famous  in  Moray- 
shire legend  as  'Sir  Robert  the  Warlock,'  and  7tis  grand- 
son, the  sixth  baronet,  dying  unmarried  in  1795,  the 
title  passed  to  Gordon  of  Letterfourie,  the  estate  to  Alex. 
Penrose  Gumming,  Esq.  of  Altyke,  who  himself  was 
created  a  baronet  in  1804.  His  nephew,  Roualeyn 
George  (1820-66),  is  remembered  by  his  Five  Years' 
Adventures  in  the  Par  Interior  of  South  Africa  ;  and  his 
great-grandson.  Sir  'William-Gordon  Gordon-Gumming, 
present  and  fourth  Bart.  (b.  1848  ;  sue.  1866),  holds 
36,387  acres  in  Elginshire  and  2112  in  Nairnshire, 
valued  at  £13,685  and  £156  per  annnm.  A  building 
mainly  of  1775-76,  Gordonstown  consists  of  a  large 
square  central  block  of  masonry,  with  E  and  W  turreted 
wings,  dining  and  drawing  rooms  each  60  feet  long,  a 
good  many  fine  paintings,  etc. — Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  95, 1876. 

Gordonstown,  a  small  straggling  village  in  Auchter- 
less  parish,  Aberdeenshire,  3  mUes  W  by  S  of  Fyvie 
station. 

Gorebridge,  a  vUlage  of  E  Edinburghshire,  on  the 
right  bank  of  Gore  Water,  4  J  miles  S  by  E  of  Dalkeith 
and  10  SE  by  S  of  Edinburgh,  or  12  by  i-ailway.  Im- 
mediately W  of  it  is  the  ruinous  square  tower  of  New- 
byres  Castle  ;  Stobs  Mills,  across  the  stream,  erected  in 
1793,  were  the  earliest  gunpowder  works  in  Scotland ; 
and  around  are  the  rich  mineral  fields  of  Arniston,  Dal- 
housie,  Newbattle,  and  Vogrie.  The  village  itself  has 
a  station  on  the  Waverley  section  of  the  North  British, 
a  post  office,  -with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  tele- 
graph departments,  2  insurance  agencies,  an  hotel,  a 
police  station,  a  gas  company,  a  new  water  supply  (1882), 
a  girls'  school,  a  Free  church,  and  a  U.P.  church,  whilst 
near  it  are  Stobhill  quoad  sacra  churcli  and  public 
schooh  Pop.  (1841)  240,  (1861)  446,  (1871)  966,  (1881) 
1148,  of  whom  745  were  in  Temple  (detached),  367  in 
Berth  wick,  and  36  in  Newbattle. — Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  32, 
1857. 

Gore  Water,  a  rivulet  of  Borthmck  parish,  Edin- 
burghshire, formed  by  the  confluence  of  Middleton 
Nortli  and  South  Burns  just  beneath  Borthwick  Castle, 
and  winding  3J  miles  north-westward  through  the  in- 
terior and  along  the  boundary  with  Temple  (detached) 
and  Newbattle,  till  it  falls  into  tlie  South  Esk,  at  the 
picturesque  locality  of  Shank  Point,  1  mile  WNW  of 
Gorebridge  village.  It  is  followed,  throughout  its  course, 
by  the  Waverley  branch  of  the  North  British  railway, 
and,  together  -n-ith  its  head-streams,  it  abounds  in  small 
troMt.—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  32,  1857. 

Gorgask,  a  burn,  occasionally  swelled  into  an  im- 
petuous torrent,  in  Laggan  parish,  Inverness-shire. 

Gorgie,  a  village  in  St  Cuthbert's  parish,  Edinburgh- 
shire, near  the  right  side  of  the  Water  of  Leith,  IJ  mile 
SSW  of  Murrayfield  station.  It  has  a  post  office,  with  sav- 
ings' bank  department.  A  tannery  called  Gorgie  Mills 
adjoins  it ;  and  Gorgie  House,  Gorgie  Mains,  and  Gorgie 
Park  are  in  its  vicinity.     Pop.  (1871)  428,  (1881)  656. 

Gorm,  Loch.     See  Guirm. 

Gorthie.     See  Fowlis-Westee. 

Gortlech  or  Gorthlick,  a  hamlet  of  Dores  parish,  Inver- 
ness-shire, in  Stratherrick,  3^  miles  SE  of  Inverfarigaig, 
and  20  SSW  of  Inverness,  iinder  which  it  has  a  post  office. 

Gcseland,  a  hUl  (1427  feet)  in  the  Kilbucho  section  of 
Broughton  parish,  W  Peeblesshire,  2|  mUes  WSW  of 
Broughton  village. 

Gosford,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Wemyss,  in  Aberlady 
parish,  Haddingtonshire,  3  furlongs  E  of  a  smaU  bay  of 
its  0T\-n  name,  2  miles  NNE  of  Longniddry  station,  and 
5|  NW  of  Haddington.  The  estate  was  purchased,  and 
the  mansion  built,  in  the  latter  half  of  last  century  by 
the  sixth  Earl,  whose  great-great-grandson,  Francis 
Wemyss-Charteris  Douglas,  ninth  Earl  of  Wemyss 
since  1633,  and  sixth  of  March  since  1697  (b.  1818; 
sue.  1883),  as  Lord  Elcho,  may  be  said  to  have  created 
the  volunteer  movement  in  1859,  and  holds  57,158 
acres,  valued  at  £50,080,  10s.  per  annum,  viz.,  10,136 
in  Haddingtonshire  (£22,524,  lis.),  41,247  in  Peebles- 
shire (£14,315,  16s.),  1504  in  Edinburghshii'e  (£5570), 
60 


1261  in  Berwickshire  (£747),  and  3010  in  Perthshire 
(£7666,  3s.).  Standing  amid  extensive  and  finely 
planted  grounds,  Gosford  lifts  its  top  into  charming 
vista  view,  as  seen  from  the  North  British  railway ;  is 
approached  on  the  W  side  of  the  grounds  by  a  fine 
lodge,  designed  by  Mr  Billings ;  and  contains  a  large 
collection  of  pictures,  many  of  them  by  the  old  masters. 
A  hospital  in  connection  with  Dunglass  collegiate  church 
anciently  stood  at  Gosford  Spital,  but  has  entirely  dis- 
appeared. See  Wemyss,  Amisfield,  Neidpath,  Elcho, 
and  B.\RNS.— Ord  Sur.,  sh.  33,  1863. 

Goshen,  a  village  near  Larbert  station,  Stirlingshire. 

Gossaburgh,  a  hamlet  in  Yell  island,  Shetland,  with 
a  post  office  under  Lerwick. 

Goukstane  Bum.     See  Gockstajje. 

Goules.     See  Go.^les. 

Gour  or  Ghobhair,  Loch.     See  Creich,  Sutherland. 

Gourdie,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  a  detached 
portion  of  Clunie  parish,  Perthshire.  'The  mansion,  4J 
miles  NNE  of  Murthly  station,  is  large  and  substantial : 
and  occupies  a  charming  site  near  the  eastern  base  of 
Gourdie  Hill  (517  feet)  and  the  northern  shore  of  a 
crescent-shaped  lake  (3  x  i  furl.).  It  commands  a  de- 
lightful view,  and  is  the  seat  of  Mrs  Kinloch,  who  holds 
788  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1269  per  annum. 

Gourdon,  a  coast  village  in  Bervie  parish,  Kincardine- 
shire, IJ  mOe  S  by  W  of  Bervie  town.  It  has  a  station 
on  the  Bervie  section  of  the  North  British  railway, 
a  post  office  under  Fordoun,  with  money  order,  sav- 
ings' bank,  and  telegi-aph  departments,  a  girl's  public 
school,  a  tolerable  harbour,  and  several  large  granaries. 
A  shipping-place  for  the  export  of  grain,  and  the  import 
of  coals,  lime,  and  suchlike  bulky  articles,  it  carries  on 
fishing  in  108  boats,  with  165  men  and  boys.  The 
harbour,  improved  a  number  of  years  ago  at  a  cost  of 
£2000,  admits  at  ebb  tide  vessels  drawing  12  feet  of 
water,  and  affords  them  anchorage  till  the  flood  carries 
them  inward  to  its  quay.  Gourdon  Hill,  3  furlongs  W 
by  S  of  the  village,  on  the  mutual  border  of  Bervie  and 
Benholm  parishes,  rises  to  a  height  of  436  feet  above 
sea-level,  and  is  seen  by  marmers  at  a  gi'cat  distance. 
Pop.  of  the  village  (1831)  238,  (1871)  714,  (1881)  919.— 
Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  67,  1871. 

Gourock,  a  watering-place  in  Innerkip  parish,  NW 
Renfrewshire,  extending  nearly  2  miles  along  the  southern 
shore  of  the  Firth  of  Clyde.  By  water  it  is  IJ  mile  S 
of  Kilcreggan  at  the  narrowest,  and  4|  miles  SW  of 
Helensburgh  ;  whilst  by  road  it  is  1 J  mile  N  of  Ravens- 
craig  station,  2i  miles  ENE  of  Cloch  Lighthouse,  and 
2|  WNW  of  the  centre  of  Greenock,  with  which  it  com- 
municates by  a  tramway  opened  on  1  July  1873.  'It 
lies,'  says  Mr  Jlacrae,  'along  the  firth,  right  and  left 
from  Kempoch  Point,  opposite  the  mouth  of  Loch  Long, 
where  the  firth  broadens  out  into  its  full  beauty  and 
magnificence.  A  hill  called  BarrhUl  (478  feet),  preci- 
pitous on  the  western  flank,  and  descending  and  nar- 
rowing to  a  point  at  Kempoch,  cuts  Gourock  into  two 
villages — Gourock  proper  and  Ashton,  the  E  and  W 
ends  of  the  place — each  with  its  own  bay.  Gourock 
proper  looks  mainly  up  the  Clyde,  towards  Roseneath 
and  Helensburgh.  Ashton,  round  the  point,  looks 
across  the  firth  westward  to  Strone,  Holy  Loch,  and 
Dunoon.'  Whereto  need  only  be  added  that  Gourock 
Bay,  measuring  f  mile  across  the  entrance  and  3J  fur- 
longs thence  to  its  inmost  recess,  affords  good  anchorage 
for  yachts,  being  free  from  rock  and  shoal ;  on  its 
western  side  is  an  excellent  stone  pier  and  jetty,  con- 
structed in  1840  for  steamers  and  small  sailing  craft. 
West  Bay  is  hardly  a  bay  in  the  proper  sense  of  the 
term,  so  slight  is  its  encurvature  ;  but  its  rocky  or 
shingly  beach  is  well  adapted  for  bathing. 

The  greater  portion  of  Gourock  proper  is  a  continuous, 
well-built  terrace-line,  fully  J  mile  long,  and  standing 
on  nearly  a  dead  level  close  to  the  beach  ;  but  a  con- 
siderable portion  consists  of  short  streets  and  separate 
houses  on  the  face  of  the  brae  behind.  A  small  portion 
of  Ashton,  joining  on  to  the  lower  end  of  Gourock  pro- 
per, and  sometimes  called  Kempoch,  is  a  double  line  of 
houses  or  short  street,  of  similar  character  to  the  main 

201 


GOUEOCK 

part  of  Gourock  proper  ;  the  greater  portion  is  an  array 
of  villas  or  neat  two-story  houses,  in  terrace  line,  con- 
fronting the  West  Bay  ;  and  a  small  but  conspicuous 
portion  consists  of  separate  villas  on  a  high  line  of  road 
along  the  crest  of  a  steep  overhanging  brae,  with  gardens 
and  garden  walls  running  almost  precipitously  down  its 
face.  The  site  of  all  the  beachward  portions  of  the 
town  is  the  narrow,  low  platform  of  the  old  sea-margin 
that  fringes  nearly  all  the  Firth  of  Clyde  ;  and  the  site 
of  the  higher  portions  is  a  range  of  braes,  abrupt  or 
sloping,  formed  by  the  upheaval  of  eruptive  rocks.  The 
seaward  view  from  the  town  is  everywhere  charming 
and  diversified,  ranging  over  an  extensive  reach  of  the 
Dumbartonshire  and  Argyllshire  hills,  mountains,  and 
sea-lochs ;  the  roads  from  its  two  extremities,  towards 
Greenock  and  Innerkip,  are  delightful  carriage-drives  ; 
and  the  steep  grounds  behind  afford  delightful  rambles 
to  pedestrians,  and  command  magnificent  views.  The 
gentlest  part  of  the  ascent,  southward  from  the  E  end  of 
Gourock  proper,  is  traversed  by  a  carriage-road  towards 
the  vale  of  Kip  Water  and  the  dingle  thence  to  Greenock, 
is  partly  occupied  by  the  park  and  mansion  of  Gourock 
House,  and  contains  some  exquisite  scenery.  Gourock, 
indeed,  has  so  neat  and  cheerful  an  aspect,  such  snug 
and  comfortable  houses,  such  capital  bathing-grounds, 
such  ample  facilities  of  communication  both  by  land 
and  by  water,  and  so  prompt  and  full  a  supply  of  the 
general  conveniences  and  comforts  of  life,  as  well  to 
merit  the  character  of  a  first-class  watering-place.  It 
was  a  sea-bathing  resort  in  times  long  prior  to  the  intro- 
duction of  steam  navigation,  and  it  continues  to  be 
frequented  more  or  less  throughout  the  year,  being 
always  crowded  during  the  summer  months. 

The  town  has  a  post  office  under  Greenock,  with 
money  order,  savings'  bank,  insurance,  and  telegraph 
departments,  a  branch  of  the  Union  Bank,  5  insurance 
agencies,  6  hotels,  gasworks  (1849),  police  and  coast- 
guard stations,  a  rifle  corps,  bowling,  cm-ling,  skating, 
sailing,  and  cricket  clubs,  a  young  men's  Christian  asso- 
ciation, temperance  and  other  societies,  a  masonic  lodge 
(187S),  and  the  Gamble  Institute,  erected  in  1S74-76  at 
a  cost  of  £8000  by  Mrs  Henry  Gamble  of  Ashburn. 
Besides  two  public  halls,  with  accommodation  for  350 
and  100  persons,  this  handsome  building  contains  a 
public  library,  cofli'ee  and  smoking  rooms,  and  baths. 
The  quoad  sacra  parish  of  Gourock,  constituted  in  1857, 
is  in  the  presbytery  of  Greenock  and  synod  of  Glasgow 
and  Ayr.  Successor  to  a  chapel  of  ease  of  1776,  its 
church  was  built  in  1832-33  at  a  cost  of  £2300,  being  a 
neet  structure  with  a  square  battlemented  tower.  In 
1882  it  was  enlarged,  and  greatly  improved  by  the  intro- 
duction of  an  organ  and  a  stained-glass  window.  A  hall 
and  rooms  behind  were  added  in  1874,  and  a  manse  was 
purchased  in  1877.  The  Free  church  (1855-57)  is  a  hand- 
some Gothic  edifice,  whose  tower  was  completed  in  1877. 
There  are  also  a  Gothic  U.  P.  church  (1848),  an  Indepen- 
dent congregation  that  arose  from  the  expulsion  by  the 
U.P.  synod  of  the  Rev.  David  Macrae  (1879),  an  Epis- 
copal church,  St  Bartholomew's  (1857),  and  a  Roman 
Catholic,  St  Niuian's  (1880),  which.  Early  English  in 
style,  is  divided  into  two  flats — the  upper  one  the 
church,  the  lower  a  schoolroom.  Two  handsome  new 
public  schools,  the  Central  and  the  Eastern,  were  built 
in  1877,  and,  with  respective  accommodation  for  330 
and  150  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of 
241  and  146,  and  grants  of  £222,  5s.  and  £135,  9s. 

A  monument  of  prehistoric  times  is  a  monolith  of 
grey  mica  schist,  6  feet  high  and  2  in  diameter,  which 
stands  between  the  edge  of  the  clitf  and  modern  Gourock 
Castle.  It  bears  the  soubriquet  of  '  Granny  Kempoch,' 
and  for  ages  was  looked  upon  with  superstitious  awe. 
Sailors  and  fishermen  would  pace  seven  times  around  it, 
carrying  a  basketful  of  sea-sand  and  chanting  an  eerie 
sti'ain,  thereby  to  ensure  a  prosperous  breeze  ;  wdiilst  a 
newly-wedded  pair  must  also  make  the  round  of  it,  if 
they  would  have  good  luck.  In  1662,  Mary  Lamont,  a 
girl  in  her  'teens,  was,  with  other  women  of  Gourock 
and  Greenock,  condemned  and  burned  as  a  witch.  She 
confessei/,  among  other  things,  to  having  been  present 
202 


GOVAN 

'  at  a  meeting  at  Kempoch,  where  they  intended  to  cast 
the  long-stone  into  the  sea,  thereby  to  destroy  boats 
and  ships  ;  where  also  they  danced,  and  the  devil  kissed 
them  when  they  went  away.' 

This  is  not  the  first  mention  of  Gourock,  since  James 
IV.  sailed  hence  on  his  expedition  to  the  Western  Isles 
(1494) ;  and  its  vanished  old  castle,  small  and  unim- 
portant though  it  was,  is  known  to  have  been  held  by 
the  powerful  Douglases  down  to  their  forfeiture  in  1455. 
Forming  the  western  part  of  Finnart  barony,  the  lands 
of  Gourock  were  thereafter  held  by  the  Stewarts  of 
Castlemilk  till  1784,  when  they  were  sold  for  £5000  to 
Duncan  Darroch,  once  a  poor  Innerkip  herd-boy,  whose 
great-grandson,  Duncan  Darroch,  Esq.  (b.  1836  ;  sue. 
1864),  holds  4248  acres  in  Renfrewshire  and  32,000  in 
Ross-shire,  valued  at  £4387  and  £1062  per  annum. 
(See  ToKraDON. )  To  him  belongs  Gourock  House,  with 
its  beautiful  grounds,  although  he  has  never  made  it 
his  home ;  another  mansion,  modern  Gourock  Castle, 
was  buUt  near  the  site  of  its  predecessor  in  1747,  and  is 
a  plain  edifice,  with  later  additions. 

So  early  as  1694  Sir  William  Stewart  of  Castlemilk 
obtained  a  charter  incorporating  the  lands  of  Gourock 
into  a  free  barony,  and  Gourock  itself  into  a  burgh  of 
barony,  mth  power  to  rear,  build,  and  enlarge  the  same 
town,  and  to  hold  a  court  and  market  every  Tuesday, 
with  two  annual  fairs  on  12  June  o.  s.  and  10  Nov.  o.  s. 
A  rope-walk,  started  in  1777,  was  removed  to  Port 
Glasgow  in  1851  ;  a  copper-mine  was  sunk  in  1780  in 
the  valley  behind  Tower  Hill ;  and  the  fu'St  red  herring 
ever  cured  in  Great  Britain  was  cured  at  Gourock  in 
168S.  These  industries  all  are  things  of  the  past ;  but 
still,  after  upwards  of  sixty  years,  whinstone  is  largely 
exported  from  Craigmnschat  Quarry.  The  Police  Act 
of  1850  was  adopted  in  1858,  the  General  Improvement 
(Scotland)  Act  of  1862  in  1877  ;  and  under  the  latter 
Gom-ock  is  governed  by  a  provost,  two  bailies,  and  five 
other  commissioners.  'The  municipal  constituency  num- 
bered 1105  in  1883,  when  the  annual  value  of  real  pro- 
perty was  £24,179.  Pop.  of  town  (1841)  2169,  (1861) 
2116,  (1871)  2940,  (18S1)  3336,  of  whom  3308  were  in 
the  police  burgh  and  143S  were  males;  of  quoad  sacra 
parish  (1871)  3291,  (1881)  4296,  of  whom  4149  were  in 
Innerkip  and  147  in  Greenock  West  parish.  Houses  in 
town  (1881)  830  inhabited,  264  vacant,  4  building.— 
Ord.  Siir.,  shs.  30,  29,  1866-73.  See  the  Rev.  David 
Macrae's  Ifotes  ahout  GourocTc,  chiefly  Historical  (Edinb. 
1880). 

Gourock  Bum,  a  rivulet  of  West  Kilbride  parish,  IT 
Ayrshire,  rising  at  an  altitude  of  650  feet  on  the  eastern 
border  of  the  parish,  and  running  2|  miles  south-south- 
westward  to  the  Firth  of  Clyde  at  Ann's  Lodge. 

Govan,  a  parish  and  a  burgh  in  the  lower  ward  of 
Lanarkshire,  and  in  the  extreme  NW  of  that  county. 
A  portion  of  the  parish  towards  the  SE  end  is  in  the 
county  of  Renfrew.  It  is  bounded  N  by  Dumbar- 
tonshire, NE  by  Maryhill  and  Barony,  E  by  City  and 
Rutherglen,  all  in  Lanarkshire,  S  by  Cathcart  and  East- 
wood, SW  by  Abbey  and  Renfrew,  and  NW  by  New 
Kilpatrick,  all  in  Renfrewshire.  The  boundary  between 
it  and  Maryhill  and  Barony  is  formed  by  the  river 
Kelvin  for  a  distance  of  3-J  miles,  except  a  small  portion 
occupied  by  one  of  the  shipbuilding  yards  on  the  W 
bank  of  the  Kelvin  at  the  mouth,  and  there  Govan 
crosses  the  river  and  includes  this  yard.  From  the 
mouth  of  the  Kelvin  the  boundary  between  Govan  and 
Barony  and  afterwards  between  Govan  and  City  is  the 
rivei  Clyde  along  a  distance  of  over  3J  miles  eastward 
as  far  as  Malls  Mire  or  Polmadie  Burn  up  which  the  line 
of  division  passes  for  about  a  mile.  For  the  rest  of  its 
course,  excepting  a  very  short  distance  at  the  Mill  Burn 
on  the  extreme  AV,  the  boundary  is  purely  artificial, 
turning  westward  in  an  irregular  course  to  a  point  on 
the  Greenock  road  3  miles  W  of  the  burgh  of  Govan, 
and  so  close  to  Renfrew  that  a  small  portion  of  the 
parish  is  included  within  the  parliamentary  boundary 
of  that  burgh.  After  following  the  course  of  the  Mill 
Burn  for  a  very  short  distance  it  passes  eastward  to  the 
Clyde,  and  then  runs  irregularly  N  and  NE  to  the 


GOVAN 

starting-point  on  the  Kelvin.  From  tlie  Malls  Mire 
Burn  W,  N,  and  NE  to  the  Kelvin,  the  boundary  of  tlie 
parish  coincides  witli  that  of  the  counties,  except  for 
about  a  mile  immediately  to  the  S  of  the  Malls  Mire 
Fire-brick  Works,  and  for  a  distance  of  about  2  miles  to 
the  W  of  Strathbungo,  past  the  S  side  of  Haggs  Castle. 
The  Clyde  divides  the  parish  into  two  unequal  parts, 
the  larger  extending  along  the  S  side  of  the  Clyde  with 
a  length  of  6i  miles,  and  a  breadth  at  its  widest  part, 
near  the  centre,  of  If  mile  ;  the  smaller  on  the  N  bank 
of  the  Clyde  W  of  the  Kelvin,  and  measuring  in  its 
greatest  length  (along  the  Great  Western  Road,  W  of 
Kelvin  Bridge)  2J  miles,  and  in  its  greatest  breadth 
(from  Whiteinch  on  the  SW  to  the  point  on  the  N 
where  the  county  of  Dumbarton  reaches  the  Kelvin)  2J 
miles.  The  total  area  is  6940  acres  distributed  thus  : — 
land  6281  acres,  public  roads  340  acres,  railways  112 
acres,  foreshore  18  acres,  water  37  acres,  and  tidal  water 
152acres.  Ofthis5738  acresareinLanarkshire,  andl202 
in  Renfrewshire.  Govan  is  here  taken  as  including  tlie 
small  parish  of  Gorbals,  which  has  been  for  a  long  time 
ecclesiastically  distinct,  and  also  had,  for  a  considerable 
period,  as  is  noticed  in  the  article  Glasgow,  a  separate 
jurisdiction.  The  inhabitants  of  Gorbals,  about  1727, 
found  themselves  numerous  enough  to  think  of  building 
a  church  for  themselves,  and  this  having  been  begun  the 
heritors  of  Govan  granted  the  prayer  of  a  petition  from 
the  feuars,  elders,  and  inhabitants  of  Gorbals,  asking 
that  their  district  should  be  formed  into  a  new  parish. 
The  church  was  opened  in  1730,  but,  owing  to  opposi- 
tion from  the  magistrates  of  Glasgow — who  were  supe- 
riors of  the  barony  of  Gorbals,  and  who  had  offered  to 
'  pay  the  expense  of  the  building  of  the  church,  and  to 
give  a  stipend  and  manse  to  the  entrant '  if  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  Bridgend  would  only  '  bear  Scot  and  lot 
with  them  ' — and  from  the  University  authorities,  who 
were  patrons  of  Govan,  it  was  not  till  1771  that  the 
new  parish  of  Gorbals  was  disjoined  and  erected.  The 
lands  of  Little  Govan  and  Polmadie  were  in  the  same 
year  joined  to  it  quoad  sacra,  and  so  matters  remained 
till  1873  when  the  Board  of  Supervision  reunited  the 
two  for  poor  law  purposes  in  what  is  now  known  as 
Govan  Combination.  The  parish  of  Gorbals 'is  very 
small,  having  an  area  of  only  28 '489  acres,  but  it  is  very 
densely  populated. 

The  surface  of  Govan  is  irregular.  Along  the  Clyde  it 
is  low  and  flat,  varying  in  height  from  19  (Clyde  view) 
to  24  feet  (Govan  burgh)  above  sea-level,  but  from  this 
it  rises  to  the  N  and  S,  reaching  in  the  former  direction 
a  height  of  214  feet  near  the  county  boundary,  and,  in 
the  latter,  of  165  feet  at  Ibroxhill,  170  at  Haggbowse, 
and  137  at  Titwood.  With  the  exception  of  Barony 
parish  in  Glasgow,  Govan  is  the  most  important  and 
populous  parish  in  Scotland,  as  well  as  the  most  valu- 
able, and,  from  the  rapid  strides  it  has  of  late  been 
making,  it  is  more  than  probable  that  at  no  very  distant 
date  it  will  reach  the  foremost  position.  This  progress 
arises  from  the  great  change  that  has,  within  less  than 
half  a  century,  taken  place  in  its  industries.  Prior  to 
1840  there  were  on  an  average  4320  acres  under  crops  of 
various  kinds,  and,  besides  this,  there  were  many 
gardens  and  orchards,  the  produce  of  which  went  to 
Glasgow  for  sale.  Now  the  agricultural  area  is  very 
materially  diminished,  and  is  growing  less  from  year  to 
year,  while  the  area  occupied  by  buildings  of  various 
kinds  has  rapidly  and  largely  increased.  Of  the  total 
valuation  of  the  parish  the  portion  set  down  as  arising 
from  agricultural  land  is  only  about  the  one-hundredth 
part,  while  the  remaining  -fi^j  arise  from  the  built  area, 
and  this  will  ere  long,  when  the  proposed  now  docks  are 
erected  at  Cessnock  in  the  Plantation  district,  he  mate- 
rially increased.  The  built  area  includes,  on  the  N  side 
of  the  Clyde,  the  burghs  of  Partick  and  Hillhead,  and 
the  districts  of  Dowanhill,  Kelvinside,  and  AVhiteinch  ; 
and,  on  the  S  side  of  the  river,  all  the  part  of  Glasgow 
known  as  the  South  Side  (and  containing  the  districts  of 
Hutchesontown,  Gorbals,  Laurieston,  and  Tradeston), 
the  police  burghs  of  Govan,  Kinning  Park,  Cross- 
hill,    Govanhill,  East  Pollokshields  and  West  Pollok- 


GOVAN 

-.,  the  distr 

Plantation. 

History,  etc. — The  etymology  of  the  name  is  uncer- 
tain. In  1518  we  find  it  spelled  Gwuan,  and  Leslie,  in 
his  Scotim  Dcscripiio  (1578),  says  that  the  parish  got  its 
name  from  the  excellence  of  its  ale  (A.-S.  God-win), 
while  Chalmers,  in  his  Caledonia,  advances  the  Gaelic 
Gamhan,  meaning  a  ditch.  How  the  parish  came  to 
be  divided  between  two  counties  is  not  known.  It  has 
been  asserted  that  the  whole  lay  originally  within  the 
county  of  Lanark,  but  that  in  1677  the  lands  of  Haggs, 
Titwood,  and  Shields  were  transferred  to  the  county  of 
Renfrew,  '  for  the  convenience  of  Sir  George  Maxwell ' 
of  PoUok,  to  whom  they  belonged.  This,  however, 
cannot  be  the  case,  as  these  lands  are,  in  the  original 
charter  granted  by  the  Archbishop  of  Glasgow  in  1581, 
described  as  in  Renfrewshire.  The  appearance  of  the 
district  in  late  prehistoric  times  has  already  been 
alluded  to  in  the  article  Glasgow,  but  in  connection 
with  this  it  may  here  be  noticed  that  in  the  parish  of 
Govan  there  are  beds  of  finely  laminated  clay  and  sand 
at  different  places  at  considerable  heights  above  the 
sea.  In  beds  of  clay  at  Balshagry  and  Gartnavel,  about 
90  feet  above  sea-level,  the  late  Mr  Smith  of  Jordan- 
hill  found  marine  shells,  of  which  10  per  cent,  were  of 
types  now  living  in  colder  seas.  Whiteinch  was,  as  the 
name  implies,  formerly  an  island,  as  was  also  part  of 
the  lands  of  Meadowside,  and  islands  they  remained  till 
late  in  the  historic  period.  There  is  mention  made  of 
the  islands  between  Govan  and  Partick  in  one  of  the 
docirments  in  the  chartulary  of  Glasgow,  and  in  the 
map  in  Blaeu's  Atlas,  published  in  1654,  Wliiteinch 
and  a  number  of  islands  adjacent  are  shown,  as  are  also 
villages  at  Partick,  '  Little  Gouan,'  at  the  S  end  of 
Glasgow  Bridge,  and  'Mekle  Gouan,'  where  the  pre- 
sent burgh  stands.  This  map  also  shows  the  parish 
intersected  by  a  small  stream  which  entered  the  Clyde 
opposite  Stobcross.  The  land  at  Whiteinch  was,  till 
near  the  middle  of  the  present  century,  very  low,  but 
about  1840  the  Clyde  Trustees  got  permission  to  deposit 
dredged  material  on  it,  and  in  this  way  the  level  over  a 
space  of  69  acres  was  raised  from  10  to  15  feet. 

The  earliest  notices  of  Govan  that  are  to  be  found  are 
in  connection  with  church  matters.  In  1136,  when 
Glasgow  Cathedral  was  formally  consecrated.  King 
David  gave  to  the  See  the  lands  of  Perteyc  and  also 
of  Govan  {Guvan  mm  suis  divisis),  and  Bishop  Herbert 
(1147-64)  erected  the  church  into  a  prebend,  and  be- 
stowed it  on  his  chaplain,  and  from  this  time  onward 
to  the  Reformation  we  find  frequent  mention  of  various 
prebendaries  of  the  parish.  In  1319  we  find  Edward  II. 
jilaying  with  the  assumption  of  the  power  over  Scot- 
land that  had  been  lost  for  ever,  and  nominating 
'  Johannes  de  Lund, '  or  Lundy,  prebendary  of  Govan, 
but  the  presentee  probably  never  appeared  in  his  bene- 
fice. In  1525  Walter  Betoun  was  'Rector  de  Gowan,' 
and  in  1527  he  assisted  at  St  Andrews  at  the  trial  of 
Patrick  Hamilton.  His  successor,  Stephen  Beatoun, 
presented  to  the  charge  by  Queen  Mary  in  1561,  was 
the  last  of  the  Roman  Catholic  clergymen.  He  was 
permitted  to  retain  the  temporalities  of  the  benefice  as 
long  as  he  lived,  and  as,  immediately  before  his  death, 
he  gave  a  lease  of  the  teinds  to  his  brother,  the  latter 
managed  to  retain  them  for  other  nineteen  years,  to  the 
great  loss  of  the  University  of  Glasgow,  to  which  they 
had  been  granted. 

After  the  Reformation  Govan  had  a  succession  of 
eminent  ministers.  "When  the  revenues  of  the  vicarage 
of  Govan  were  granted  to  the  University,  one  of  the 
conditions  attached  was  that  the  principal  of  the  Uni- 
versity should  preach  at  Govan  every  Sunday,  and  so 
practically  be  minister  of  the  parish,  though  there  was 
also  an  'exhortar.'  '  AVe  have,' says  the  king  in  the 
charter,  '  thought  it  to  be  right,  when  our  college  is 
supported  out  of  the  tythes  and  revenues  of  that  church, 
that  they  who  provide  temporal  things  should  receive 
spiritual  things,  and  not  be  defrauded  of  the  bread  of 
life,  which  is  the  word  of  God.'  The  principal  of  the 
University,  when  this  grant  was  made,  was  the  cele- 

203 


GOVAN 


GOVAN 


brated  Andrew  Melvil,  and  according  to  the  account 
given  by  his  nephew,  James,  in  his  Diary,  the  Regent 
Morton  was  in  his  action  in  the  matter  exercising  some 
political  finesse.  James  Melvil  says  that  this  '  guid 
benefice,  paying  four-and-twentie  chalder  of  victuall,' 
was  offered  to  his  uncle,  if  he  would  only  keep  his  views 
of  church  government  in  the  background.  When  this 
was  refused  the  appointment  was  kept  open  for  two 
years,  dangling  as  a  sort  of  bait  before  the  eyes  of  the 
worthy  principal.  Morton  finding  this  all  in  vain,  at 
length  granted  the  revenues  to  the  University  vnth.  the 
above-mentioned  condition  as  regards  the  church  ser- 
vices, hoping  thus  in  an  indirect  way  '  to  demearit  Mr 
Andro,  and  cause  him  relent  from  dealling  against 
bischopes  ;  but  God  keepit  his  awin  servant  in  upright- 
ness and  treuthe  in  the  middis  of  manie  heavie  tenta- 
tiones.'  When  Melvil  was  transferred  to  St  Andrews 
in  1580  he  was  succeeded  by  Thomas  Smeton,  after 
whom  came  Patrick  Sharpe  and  Robert  Boyd,  the  last  of 
the  principals  of  the  University,  who  also  was  minister 
of  Govan.  Complaint  had  been  made  as  early  as  1596, 
and  again  in  1606,  that  there  was  no  one  'to  teiche  ye 
youthe  of  ye  parochin  of  Govane  dwelland  besyde  ye 
kirk  yairof,'  and  when  Charles  I.  granted  a  charter  of 
confirmation  to  the  University  in  1630  (ratified  1633) 
special  power  was  given  to  the  University  authorities 
'of  electing,  nominating,  presenting,  and  accepting 
for  the  proper  service  of  the  cure  at  the  said  church  of 
Govan,  a  minister  who  shall  take  up  his  actual  resi- 
dence at  the  said  church. '  This  power  had  been  acted 
on  previously,  for  a  James  Sharpe  had  been  appointed 
minister  in  1621  ;  and  in  1637  the  stipend  was  assigned 
of  '  fy ve  hundredth  merks  usuall  money  of  the  realrae, 
twentie-fonr  boUis  bere,  and  eight  boUis  meil  .  .  . 
togedder  with  ye  whole  mailis  and  duties  to  be  payed 
to  ye  tacksman  of  ye  vicarage  of  the  small  teinds,'  while 
the  University  connection  was  maintained  by  the  con- 
dition that  the  minister  should  in  the  'common  schools' 
of  the  college  read  a  public  lecture  on  some  subject  pre- 
scribed by  the  authorities.  Of  the  succeeding  ministers, 
the  most  eminent  were  Hugh  Binning  (1649-54),  Alex- 
ander Jamieson  (1659-62),  William  Thom  (1746-91), 
and  M.  Leishman  (1821-74).  Mr  Binning  became,  in 
1646,  at  the  age  of  nineteen,  Regent  of  Philosophy  in 
Glasgow  University,  and  minister  of  Govan  three 
j'ears  later.  He  is  said  to  have  been  one  of  the 
ministers  who  was  present  at  a  dispute  held  at  Glas- 
gow with  Owen  and  Caryl,  the  chaplains  of  Oliver 
Cromwell,  during  the  Protector's  visit  to  Glasgow  in 
1651,  and  on  that  occasion  his  boldness  and  quickness 
were  too  much  for  the  Independent  divines,  and  caused 
Cromwell  to  inquire  who  that  learned  and  bold  young 
man  was.  On  being  told,  his  remark  was,  '  He  hath 
bound  well,  indeed,  but  this  [his  sword]  will  loose  all 
again.'  Mr  Thom  was  an  active  and  vigorous  minister, 
and  became  popular,  notwithstanding  a  considerable 
amount  of  feeling  caused  by  a  dispute  about  his  settle- 
ment. It  seems  to  have  been  customary  at  that  time 
to  let  vacant  farms  by  a  sort  of  public  roup,  the  highest 
bidder  becoming  the  tenant,  and  as  the  bidders  were 
generally  well  plied  with  drink  beforehand,  the  rents  in 
many  cases  were  exorbitant,  and  out  of  all  proportion  to 
the  value.  This  system  Thom  denounced  in  plain  and 
energetic  language,  while,  as  a  method  of  relief  for  the 
farmers  and  cottars,  he  warmly  recommended  emigra- 
tion, particularly  to  North  America,  which  he  looked 
on  as  destined  to  become  the  future  centre  of  the  British 
Government. 

This  was  little  more  than  a  hundred  years  ago,  and 
yet  things  have  changed  greatly  since  then.  '  Once 
upon  a  time, '  says  Mr  Wallace,  '  and  that  too  almost 
within  the  lifetime  of  our  immediate  forefatliers,  the 
parish  of  Govan  was  almost  entirely  an  agricultural 
parish,  and  its  population  were  a  plain  simple  rural 
population.  Only  a  century  ago  the  population  of  the 
entire  parish,  even  including  Gorbals,  which,  as  we 
have  seen,  was  at  that  time  incorporated  with  it,  was 
only  4389.  It  will  be  easily  seen  from  this  fact  that 
the  greater  portion  of  the  parish  which  is  now  teeming 
204 


with  myriads  of  human  beings,  and  resounding  from 
one  end  to  the  other  with  the  clanking  of  hammers, 
the  roar  of  traffic,  and  the  incessant  hum  of  general 
business  and  activity  was  then  reposing  in  aU  the 
quietude  and  somnolency  of  purely  primitive  life. 
The  now  large  and  populous  south-side  of  Glasgow  was 
then  an  insignificant  country  village,  with  no  industry 
greater  than  a  distillery  for  the  brewing  of  ale,  a  bottle- 
work,  or  a  fewhandloom  factories.  The  dwelling-houses 
of  the  people  were  thatched  with  straw,  and  most  of 
them  had  small  gardens  attached  to  them,  where  the 
cottagers  reared  their  own  potatoes  and  cabbages. 
Many  of  the  inhabitants  kept  their  own  cows  and  pigs, 
and  they  earned  their  scanty  livings  either  in  tilling 
the  land  or  in  those  other  trades  such  as  tailoring, 
shoemaking,  coopering,  and  weaving,  which  are  essen- 
tial even  to  the  most  simple  modes  of  existence.  There 
was  a  thriving  village  then  situated  at  a  considerable  dis- 
tance to  the  south  of  the  Clyde  laiown  as  "Little  Govan," 
consisting  of  a  number  of  weavers'  cottages,  but  which 
afterwards,  through  the  enterprise  of  two  families  of 
the  names  of  Rae  and  Dixon,  became  the  centre  of  a 
large  coal  and  iron  district,  which  gave  a  great  impetus 
to  the  growth  and  prosperity  of  that  portion  of  the 
parish,  and  even  contributed  largely  to  the  importance 
of  the  city  of  Glasgow  itself  Dixon's  Ironworks,  or 
"Dixon's  Blazes,"  as  they  are  commonly  called,  were  at 
the  time  of  their  first  erection  situated  far  out  in  the 
open  country,  whereas  now  the  buildings  and  popu- 
lation extend  beyond  them  for  nearly  a  mile.  Close  to 
the  river  Clyde  where  Carlton  Place  now  stands  there 
was  an  extensive  rope  work,  while  opposite  the  present 
Gorbals  Church  there  was  a  shallow  ford,  where  horses 
were  led  to  the  watering,  and  where  horses  and  carts 
were  driven  across  to  the  city  when  the  Glasgow  bridge 
was  too  rickety  or  too  crowded  to  accommodate  the 
influx  of  traffic  from  the  country  on  the  market-days, 
and  then  too  the  schoolboys  could  wade  across  the 
river  without  thinking  they  had  done  any  wonderful 
feat.  Afterwards  the  Lauries  of  Laurieston  and  other 
leading  gentlemen  erected  a  few  commodious  mansion- 
houses  by  the  river  side,  which  might  then  be  almost 
termed  country  residences.  A  fine  avenue  of  trees  was 
formed,  and  these  mansions  were  guarded  against  the 
public  by  a  gateway  erected  near  the  present  Broomie- 
law  Bridge.  In  those  days  the  male  villagers  of  Govan 
and  Gorbals  took  their  turn  nightly  in  acting  as  volun- 
tary police  and  guardians  of  the  peace.  Their  funds 
were  raised  by  a  voluntary  tax,  called  "Reek  Money," 
and  by  another  small  tax  upon  malt. ' 

But  this  sleepy  state  of  existence  was  soon  to  come  to 
an  end.  The  deepening  of  the  Clyde  was  just  begun  ; 
and  now,  in  place  of  the  fords  already  mentioned,  and 
another  at  the  W,  where  the  parish  boundary  crosses 
the  Clyde,  known  as  Marline  Ford,  there  is  a  depth  of 
24  feet  of  water.  The  Comet  was  by-and-by  to  make 
her  first  adventurous  voyage  from  Greenock  to  Glasgow, 
and  to  be  the  forerunner  of  the  gi-eat  fleet  that  now 
sweeps  up  and  down  the  river,  and  that  has  brought 
such  prosperity  to  Glasgow,  and,  above  all,  drawn  the 
shipbuilding  yards  in  its  train.  And  yet  all  this  came 
at  first  slowly  ;  for  when  Dr  Leishman  -ivi-ote  the  article 
on  Govan,  in  the  New  Statistical  Account,  in  1840,  the 
industries,  etc.,  he  mentions  are — agriculture,  which 
was  the  main  occupation  in  the  parish  ;  the  salmon 
fishery  in  the  Clyde,  which  was  rapidly  falling  off,  the 
rent  paid  by  the  tacksman  having  decreased  from  over 
£300  in  the  beginning  of  the  century  to  £60  at  the  time 
of  his  writing  ;  cotton  bleaching  and  printing  factories 
in  Hutchesontown  and  Tradeston  ;  a  silk  factory  at 
Tradeston,  and  a  carpet  factory  at  Port  Eglinton,  em- 
ploying altogether  over  5000  hands  ;  Mr  Dixon's  iron- 
works, with  four  furnaces  and  an  annual  output  of  4000 
tons  of  pig-iron  ;  a  dye-work  in  the  village  of  Govan, 
and  handloom  weaving  also  in  the  village.  He  men- 
tions, besides,  a  new  granite-faced  quay  on  the  south  ^t 
side  of  the  river,  and  says  that  it  will  soon  have  to  be  H 
enlarged,  and  this  is  all.  This  quay  was  to  the  W  of 
Glasgow  Bridge,  and  was  erected  first  of  timber  in  1828, 


GOVAN 


GOVAN 


and  in  1837  the  timber,  to  the  extent  of  405  yards, 
was  replaced  by  stone.  Since  then  the  harbour  accom- 
modation on  the  Govan  side  of  the  river  has  increased 
till  there  are  now  3522  lineal  yards  of  quayage,  in- 
clusive of  Kingston  Dock,  while,  at  the  W  end  of  the 
quay,  there  is  one  public  graving  dock  constructed  and 
another  in  progress,  and  large  additional  dock  space  will 
probably  ere  long  be  provided  at  Cessnock.  In  1840 
shipbuilding  seems  to  have  been  undreamt  of,  for  there 
is  not  the  slightest  mention  of  it ;  and  yet  it  is  to 
this  and  to  the  shipping  that  Govan  owes  by  far  the 
greater  part  of  its  increased  value  and  importance.  The 
whole  of  the  shipbuilding  yards  immediately  connected 
with  Glasgow  on  both  sides  of  the  Clyde  are  in  the 
parish  of  Govan  ;  and  the  burgh  of  the  same  name,  as 
well  as  Partick  and  the  large  district  of  Whiteinch,  are 
mostly  inhabited  by  an  artisan  population  engaged  in 
this  industry,  and  finding  employment  in  the  various 
yards  adjoining.  Some  idea  of  the  vast  present  im- 
portance of  the  industry  may  be  obtained,  when  it  is 
mentioned  that  the  number  of  men  employed  at  all 
these  establishments  is  about  14,000,  and  the  amount 
of  wages  paid  over  £1,000,000  per  annum.  Of  the 
total  tonnage  of  new  vessels  built  and  launched  on 
the  Clyde  every  year  (for  which  see  articles  Clyde 
and  Glasgow),  about  one-half,  on  an  average,  comes 
from  yards  in  the  parish  of  Govan.  There  are  also  in  the 
parish  a  number  of  boiler  works  and  foundries — includ- 
ing the  very  large  Clutha  Iron-works,  the  Bellahouston 
Iron-works,  the  Govan  Forge  and  Steel  Company's 
works,  and  the  Govan  (Helen  Street)  Tube  Works, — 
engine  works,  tool  works,  oil  works,  a  rope  and  twine 
work ;  silk,  cotton,  dye,  and  bleaching  works,  and 
brick  works  ;  while  DLxon's  Govan  Forge,  mentioned  in 
1840,  is  still  in  fidl  flame  ;  but  now,  instead  of  pro- 
ducing 4000  tons  of  pig-iron  annually,  it  probably  pro- 
duces about  40,000.  There  were  formerly  a  number  of 
coal  and  ironstone  pits  in  the  parish,  but  these  are  now 
pretty  much  worked  out  and  abandoned. 

In  the  Old  Statistical  Account  mention  is  made  of 
'vestiges  of  religious  houses'  near  Polmadie,  but  these 
traces  have  all  long  since  vanished.  They  were  the  re- 
mains of  an  almshouse,  known  as  the  Hospital  of  Polmadie, 
dedicated  to  St  John,  and  intended  for  the  support  of 
pensioners  of  both  sexes.  Its  revenues  were  derived  from 
the  church  and  temporalities  of  Strathhlane,  and  from 
the  income  of  part  of  the  lands  of  Little  Govan.  It  must 
have  been  founded  at  a  very  early  date,  for  its  privi- 
leges were  confirmed  by  Alexander  III.,  and  again  by 
Eobert  Bruce.  From  1316  onwards  there  are  recorded 
the  names  of  a  number  of  masters  '  of  the  brothers  and 
sisters  and  pensioners  of  the  hospital  of  Polmadie ; '  and 
in  1427  Bishop  Cameron,  with  consent  of  his  chapter, 
erected  the  hospital  of  Polmadie  and  the  church  of 
Strathblane  into  a  prebend  of  Glasgow  Cathedi'al,  an 
erection  confirmed  by  Pope  Martin  V.  Near  the  centre 
of  the  southern  boundary  of  the  parish  are  the  ruins  of 
Haggs  Castle,  built  in  1585  by  one  of  the  Maxwells  of 
Pollok,  and  long  used  as  the  family  jointure  house. 
This  family  embraced  the  doctrines  of  the  Reformation, 
and  remained  constant  in  them  all  through  the  troublous 
times  between  the  Restoration  and  the  Revolution  of 
1688,  and  Haggs  in  consequence  was  more  than  once 
the  scene  of  conventicles.  In  1667  the  so-called  Presby- 
tery of  Glasgow  had  before  them  a  number  of  persons 
charged  with  being  present  at  a  meeting  at  the  castle  ; 
and  in  1676  the  '  outed '  minister  of  Govan  'gave  the 
sacrament  in  the  house  of  the  Haggs  ; '  while  in  1684 
the  privy  council  imposed  on  Sir  John  Maxwell  a  fine 
of  £8000,  and  sent  him  to  prison  for  sixteen  months, 
because  he  had  here  received  some  others  of  the  protest- 
ing clergy. 

Communications. — Lying  close  to,  and  indeed  includ- 
ing part  of,  Glasgow,  the  parish  is  naturally  traversed 
by  a  number  of  the  great  roads  leading  from  that 
centre.  The  various  ferries  and  bridges  across  the 
Clyde  have  been  noticed  in  the  article  Glasgow.  The 
northern  part  of  the  parish  is  touched  at  the  extreme 
NE  corner  by  the  Forth  and  Clyde  Canal  on  its  course 


to  Bowling,  and  is  also  traversed  by  the  lines  of  the 
Great  AVesteni  Road  and  the  Dumbarton  Road,  which 
unite  near  Yoker  (in  New  Kilpatrick)  and  jiass  on  to 
Dumbarton  and  away  to  the  W  Highlands.  The 
southern  portion  of  the  parish  is  traversed  by  a  road 
continuing  the  line  of  Eglinton  Street  and  Pollokshaws 
Road,  which  passes  to  Kilmarnock  and  Ayr  ;  and  by 
two  roads  which  continue  the  line  of  Nelson  Street  and 
Morrison  Street  westward,  one  branching  off  to  Paisley, 
the  other  running  parallel  to  the  Clyde  and  passing 
through  Govan  and  Renfrew  on  its  course  to  Greenock. 
The  Vale  of  Clyde  Tramway  Company  have  steam  cars 
running  on  the  latter  road  from  the  fork  just  mentioned 
as  far  as  Fau-field  and  back.  From  the  fork  to  Glasgow 
there  are  cars  belonging  to  the  Glasgow  Tramway  Com- 
pany. The  Glasgow,  Paisley,  and  Ardrossan  Canal  starts 
from  Port  Eglinton  on  the  W  side  of  Eglinton  Street, 
and  passes  westward  and  south-westward  through  the 
parish  for  nearly  3  miles.  The  northern  division  of  the 
parish  is  intersected  bj'  the  Stobcross  railway,  mth  goods 
stations  at  Jordanhill  Street,  Partick — one  for  the  Cale- 
donian and  one  for  the  North  British  Railway  Company. 
The  southern  portion  is  traversed  by  the  Caledonian 
railway  on  its  way  to  the  various  stations  belonging  to 
it  in  Glasgow  ;  by  the  different  sections  of  Glasgow  and 
South-Western  Railway  System  with  a  branch  from  the 
Glasgow  and  Paisley  Joint  Line  from  Ibrox  to  Govan, 
and  by  stretches  of  the  City  of  Glasgow  Union  Railway. 
Burcjlis,  etc. — The  part  of  the  parish  within  the 
municipal  and  parliamentary  boundary  of  Glasgow 
extends  (inclusive  of  the  parish  of  Gorbals)  to  841  acres, 
and  of  this  the  greater  part  is  built  on,  some  of  it  very 
densely.  This  district  has  already  been  noticed  in  the 
article  Glasgow,  and  to  what  is  there  said  but  little 
falls  here  to  be  added.  The  Leper  Hospital,  built  by 
Lady  Lochow,  daughter  of  Robert,  Duke  of  Albany,  has 
been  already  noticed.  It  was  dedicated  to  St  Ninian, 
and  the  ground  on  which  it  stood  and  by  which  it  was 
surrounded — known  as  St  Ninian's  Croft — is  now 
occupied  by  part  of  the  district  of  Hutchesontown.  A 
chapel,  belonging  to  the  hospital,  was  '  rebuilt  and 
endowed  in  1494  by  AVilliam  Stewart,  prebendary  of 
Killearn  and  rector  of  Glasford.  The  chaplain  was  the 
master  of  the  grammar  school  of  Glasgow.'  He  was 
responsible  for  the  safe  keeping  of  the  missals  and  silver 
chalices,  and  had  also  to  supply  fuel  for  the  hospital, 
and  to  '  give  twenty-four  poor  scholars  two  shillings 
Scots  each  to  sing  seven  penitential  psalms  with  the 
De profuncUs,'  on  the  anniversary  of  the  founder's  death, 
for  his  soul's  repose.  The  barony  and  regality  of 
Gorbals  passed  in  1587  from  the  Archbishop  of  Glasgow 
to  Sir  George  Elphinstone,  who  seems  to  have  retained 
for  his  own  use  funds  really  belonging  to  the  hospital, 
and  the  care  of  building  and  inhabitants  fell  to  the 
charge  of  the  kirk-session  of  Glasgow,  for  in  November 
1587  we  find  this  body  ordering  disbursement  of  money 
'  to  repair  ye  puir  lipper  folkis  hous  beyonde  the  brig 
of  Glasgow,'  but  with  the  saving  clause  that  this  was 
not  to  bind  the  session  in  time  coming,  nor  to  'dero- 
gate or  abstract  ye  burden  fra  these  persones,  gif  ony  be 
quha  hes  ben  or  may  be  fund  astricted,  to  repair  ye 
samen.'  They  at  the  same  time  ordered  a  return 
within  eight  days  of  the  '  nomber  of  ye  puir  in  ye  said 
hospitalle  and  quha  are  yai  j't  aucht  to  half  place 
yairin.'  The  site  of  the  hospital  itself  was  near  the  S 
end  of  Victoria  Bridge,  between  Main  Street  (Gorbals) 
and  Muirhead  Street,  and  part  of  the  buildings  remained 
till  early  in  the  present  century,  and  was  known  by  the 
name  of  the  Leper  Hospital.  'The  burying-ground  was 
close  by.  The  chapel  was  in  Main  Street  (Gorbals)  on 
the  E  side,  and  was  standing  till  after  the  middle  of  the 
present  century,  but  all  trace  of  it,  or  even  of  its  site, 
is  gone  since  the  recent  alterations  on  Main  Street. 
The  districts  of  Govan,  to  both  the  S  and  W  of  Glasgow, 
have  long  been  favourite  localities  fur  suburban  resi- 
dences, and  as  long  ago  as  1840  it  was  said  that  the 
parish  was  '  studded  with  the  villas  of  the  opulent 
merchants  of  Glasgow. '  Govan.  The  burgh  of  Govan, 
formerly  the  village  of  Meikle  Govan,  is  a  place  of  con- 

205 


GOVAN 

siderable  antiquity.  According  to  Fordun,  in  the 
Scotichronicon,  Constantine,  King  of  Cornwall  (tradi- 
tionally a  son  of  Rhyddercli  and  Langueth,  for  whom 
see  Glasgow),  resigned  his  crown,  and  becoming  a 
follower  of  St  Columba,  founded  a  monastery  at  Govan 
in  565  A.D.,  and  was  the  first  abbot  of  it  himself. 
Subsequent  notices  of  it  are  confined  to  ecclesiastical 
affairs  down  to  the  latter  part  of  the  16th  century, 
but  the  '  kirkton '  must  have  flourished,  whatever  the 
cause,  for  then  we  find  Bishop  Lesley,  in  the  work 
already  referred  to,  describing  it  as  '  the  largest  village 
on  the  banks  of  the  Clyde.'  In  1595,  it  is  mentioned 
as  Meikle  Govan,  and  was  then  what  it  remained  for 
two  hundred  years  afterwards,  a  mere  country  village, 
with  inhabitants  of  the  agricultural  class  and  possibly 
a  few  salmon  fishers.  In  1775  the  population  of  the 
whole  parish,  inclusive  of  Gorbals  and  Partick,  was 
4389  ;  so  that  the  village  itself  could  not  have  had 
more  than  about  1500  inhabitants.  Towards  the 
beginning  of  the  present  century  handloora  weaving  was 
introduced,  and  in  spring,  when  salmon  fishing  began, 
the  weavers  left  their  looms  and  fished  all  the  spring 
and  summer  months.  By  1836  the  population  of  the 
village  had  increased  to  2122,  and  in  1839  there  were 
340  handloom  weavers  in  the  place,  weaving  being  the 
staple  industry.  Govan  village  was  then,  and  indeed 
remained  down  to  1856  (when  it  was  still  more  than  a 
mile  distant  from  the  nearest  part  of  Glasgow  on  the  S 
side  of  the  Clyde),  a  quiet  village  with  old-fashioned 
thatched  houses,  some  of  them  with  quaint  circular 
inside  stairs.  A  few  of  these  still  remain,  but  they  are 
fast  disappearing  to  make  room  for  '  tall  and  imposing 
"  lands "  of  houses,  and  the  "canny  natives "  '  are  now 
'  outnumbered  by  the  more  vigorous  and  enterprising, 
if  not  quite  so  steady-going,  members  of  the  engineering, 
boiler-making,  and  other  trades.'  These  last,  along 
with  the  shipbuilding,  have,  within  the  last  twenty 
years,  so  rapidly  enlarged  the  limits  of  Govan,  that  it  is 
now  practically  conterminous  with  Glasgow  through  the 
districts  in  Govan  parish  known  as  Plantation  and 
Kinning  Park.  Under  the  Lindsay  Act  the  police 
burgh  of  Govan  was  formed  in  1864,  and  has  an  extent 
of  1115  acres.  The  principal  street  extends  for  more 
than  a  mile  along  the  Glasgow  and  Greenock  Road,  and 
from  this  streets  branch  off  on  both  sides,  the  newer 
ones  mostly  at  right  angles.  The  burgh  buildings  in 
Albert  Street  were  erected  in  1867  at  a  cost  of  nearly 
£11,000,  and  contained  a  large  hall  or  court-room,  with 
police  cells  and  various  oflices,  etc.  A  considerable 
portion  of  the  building  was  destroyed  by  fire  on  8  Dec. 
1882.  The  police  station  was  built  in  1869,  and  con- 
tains good  quarters  for  the  sergeants  and  constables, 
both  married  and  single.  The  public  hall  has  a  very 
modest  exterior,  but  a  tasteful  interior.  It  contains  a 
main  hall  60  feet  long,  34  wide,  and  23  high,  capable  of 
accommodating  700  persons,  and  a  smaller  hall  capable 
of  accommodating  from  150  to  200  persons.  The  parish 
church  stands  towards  the  W  end  of  the  burgh,  and  was 
built  in  1826  after  a  design  by  the  late  Mr  Smith  of 
Jordanhill .  It  is  a  plain  Gothic  building,  with  a  tower 
and  spire  in  imitation  of  those  on  the  church  at  Strat- 
ford-on-Avon.  It  contains  about  1100  sittings,  and  is 
surrounded  by  the  churchyard,  which  is  bordered  by 
elms.  The  Gaelic  church  was  built  in  1S66  at  a  cost  of 
£1150,  and  has  600  sittings.  It  at  present  ranks  as  a 
mission  church,  but  a  petition  is  now  pending  before 
the  Court  of  Session  for  its  disjunction  and  erection  as 
the  church  of  a  separate  quoad  sacra  parish  to  be  known 
as  Eiaran  parish.  The  Govan  Free  church  is  a  spacious 
edifice  erected  soon  after  the  Disruption.  Govan  St 
Mary's  Free  Church,  built  in  1872-73,  is  in  Summertown 
Street,  and  cost  about  £6000.  It  has  a  tower  and  spire 
150  feet  high,  and  contains  1100  sittings.  There  is 
also  a  Free  Gaelic  church  (St  Columba).  The  United 
Presbyterian  church  is  a  very  ornamental,  though 
somewhat  unecclesiastical-looking  building  at  the  corner 
of  Copland  Road  and  Govan  Road.  The  Congrega- 
tional church  is  a  recent  structure  calling  for  no  par- 
ticular notice.  The  Baptist  chapel  was  built  in  1876 
206 


GOVAN 

at  a  cost  of  about  £4000.  It  is  in  the  Early  English 
style,  and  contains  650  sittings,  while  adjoining  it  is  a 
hall  with  accommodation  for  450  persons.  The  Roman 
Catholic  church,  St  Anthony's,  is  a  handsome  Byzantine 
edifice,  built  in  1877-78  in  lieu  of  a  temporary  chapel 
of  1864,  and  contains  1500  sittings;  St  Michael's  Epis- 
copal church  (1875;  320  sittings)  is  of  iron.  The 
chief  institutions  are  Abraham  Hill's  Trust,  founded  in 
1757,  the  income  of  which,  arising  from  land  and 
amounting  to  over  £600  a  year,  is  applied  to  educational 
purposes  in  Hill's  Trust  Seliool ;  the  Macfarlane  School 
Trust,  founded  by  Mrs  Waddell  of  Stonefield  about  1830, 
and  under  which  a  number  of  girls  receive  free  educa- 
tion ;  Thom's  Library,  founded  by  the  widow  of  the 
Rev.  William  Thorn,  minister  of  Govan  from  1748  to 
1790,  the  books  being  lent  out  to  parishioners  on  pay- 
ment of  a  very  small  subscription ;  a  ladies'  clothing 
society,  a  penny  saving's  bank,  a  British  Workman's 
coffee  tavern,  a  bowling  club,  and  public  baths.  There 
is  a  newspaper  called  The  Govan  and  Partick  Press 
(1880).  There  is  a  post  office,  with  money  order,  sav- 
ings' bank,  insurance,  and  telegraph  departments,  a 
railway  station,  offices  of  the  Union  and  National 
Banks,  and  agencies  of  six  insurance  companies.  The 
affairs  of  the  burgh  are  managed  by  a  senior  magistrate, 
2  junior  magistrates,  and  9  commissioners.  Income 
(1881-82)  £15,945,  6s.  4d.  ;  the  police  rate  was,  in  the 
same  year,  Is.  2d.  per  £,  and  the  sanitary  rate  Id.  per 
£.  In  1864-65,  when  the  burgh  was  first  constituted, 
the  valuation  was  about  £5000,  while  for  1881-82 
it  was  £202,362.  Pop.  (1864)  9000,  (1871),  19,200, 
(1874)  37,120,  (1881)  50,492,  of  whom  49,426  were 
in  the  police  burgh.  Houses  (1874)  7424,  (1881) 
11,646,  of  which  1384  were  unoccupied  and  39  were 
building. 

The  burgh  of  Govanhill  is  on  the  S  side  of  the  parish 
close  to  Crossbill,  and  a  little  to  the  NE  of  the  Queen's 
Park.  It  was  constituted  a  police  burgh  in  1877,  after 
having,  under  the  name  of  No  Man's  Land,  constituted 
a  serious  bone  of  contention  between  Glasgow  and  Cross- 
hill,  both  of  which  had  cast  envious  eyes  on  it,  each, 
being  anxious  to  include  it  within  its  boundaries.  It 
embraces  an  area  of  113  acres,  and  its  aft'airs  are  managed 
by  a  senior  magistrate,  2  junior  magistrates,  and  6 
commissioners,  tlie  burgh  being  divided  into  3  wards, 
returning  3  members  each.  The  burgh  rate  is  9d. 
per  £.  When  the  burgh  was  formed  the  valuation  was 
£38,693  and  the  population  7212,  while  there  were 
1721  houses.  In  1881-82  the  valuation  was  £40,753, 
the  population  9636,  and  the  number  of  houses  2327, 
of  which  336  were  uninhabited  and  13  were  building. 
There  is  a  post  office,  with  money  order  and  savings' 
bank  departments. 

The  burgh  of  PoUokshields  proper  or  West  PoUok- 
shields  lies  almost  in  the  centre  of  the  southern  portion 
of  Govan  parish.  It  was  constituted  a  police  burgh  in 
1876  (having  taken  alarm  at  the  efforts  Glasgow  was 
then  making  to  incorporate  the  surrounding  districts), 
and  is  entirely  occupied  by  detached  villa  residences. 
Previous  to  its  constitution  under  the  Lindsay  Act,  the 
lighting,  watching,  etc.,  were  managed  by  a  committee 
of  the  inhabitants,  the  funds  being  raised  by  voluntary 
assessment ;  but  since  1876  the  afiairs  have  been  at- 
tended to  by  a  senior  magistrate,  2  junior  magistrates, 
and  6  commissioners.  The  burgh  rate  is  9d.  per  £. 
The  burgh  has  an  area  of  250  acres,  and  in  1877-78  the 
rental  was  £18,280,  the  population  1864,  and  the  num- 
ber of  houses  233  ;  in  1881-82  the  rental  was  £26,949, 
the  population  2104,  and  the  number  of  houses  312,  of 
which  9  were  unoccupied  and  3  building.  East  PoUok- 
shields is  immediately  to  the  E  of  the  last-mentioned 
burgh,  but,  unlike  its  more  aristocratic  neighbour,  does 
not  consist  of  detached  villas,  but  of  ordinary  tene- 
ments. It  was,  under  the  Lindsay  Act,  constituted  a 
police  burgh  in  the  beginning  of  1880,  and  embraces  an 
area  of  160  acres.  The  affairs  are  managed  by  a  senior 
magistrate,  2  junior  magistrates,  and  6  commissioners. 
The  burgh  rate  is  7id.  per  pound.  In  1881-82  the 
rental  was  £33,202,  the  population  4360,  and  the  num- 


GOVAN 


GOVAN 


ber  of  houses  955,  of  which  91  were  unoccupied  and  78 
were  building. 

The  burgh  of  Kinning  Park  lies  immediately  to  the 
N  of  PoUokshields,  and  between  it  and  the  Clyde.  It 
has  an  area  of  lOS  acres.  The  rapid  growth  of  suburban 
Glasgow  is  here  well  shown,  for  this  district,  densely 
popiuated  as  it  now  is,  was  yet,  some  thirty  years 
ago,  '  a  beautiful  rural  spot,  the  principal  features  in 
the  landscape  being  green  fields,  waving  trees,  and 
lovers'  walks,  with  here  and  there  a  charming  mansion- 
house,  while  a  pure  purling  stream,  called  the  "  Kin- 
ning House  Burn "  meandered  its  way  down  the  vale 
till  it  joined  the  comparatively  clean  waters  of  the 
Clyde  not  far  from  the  Park  House  Toll,  where  the 
road  diverges  into  two  branches — the  one  leading  to 
Paisley,  the  other  to  Govan  and  Renfrew.'  To  go  to 
the  district  was  to  visit  the  country,  and  in  due  course 
a  pleasant  suburb  sprang  up  ;  but  this  rapidly  changed, 
owing  to  the  extension  of  the  harbour  and  the  city,  and 
the  region  was  speedily  invaded  by  various  public  works, 
bringing  with  them  an  artisan  population  and  all  the 
attendant  smoke  and  din.  Kinning  Park  was,  under 
the  Lindsay  Act,  constituted  a  police  hurgh  in  1S71  ;  and 
its  affairs  are  managed  by  a  senior  magistrate,  2  junior 
magistrates,  and  9  commissioners,  3  representatives  being 
returned  from  each  of  4  wards.  The  income  in  1881 
was  £3320,  lis.,  and  the  burgh  rate  was  lOid.  per  £. 
In  1871  the  rental  was  £28,355,  and  the  population 
7214  ;  in  1877-78  the  population  had  risen  to  11,825  ; 
but  since  then  there  has  been  a  slight  falling  off,  for  in 
1881  the  rental  was  £47,844  and  the  population  11,552, 
while  there  were  2839  houses,  of  which  445  were  unin- 
habited. These  are  the  whole  of  the  police  burghs  in 
the  part  of  the  parish  on  the  S  side  of  the  Clyde,  but 
the  inhabited  area  is  rapidly  spreading  along  bj'  Planta- 
tion and  on  the  Paisley  Koad  as  far  as  Ibrox  and  Bella- 
houston,  and  the  village  of  Strathbungo  on  the  SE  is 
rapidly  becoming  a  considerable  suburb. 

In  the  SE  of  the  portion  of  the  parish  to  the  N  of  the 
Clyde,  and  to  the  W  of  the  Kelvin,  is  the  burgh  of 
Partick,  which  has  an  area  of  977  acres.  The  village 
of  Partick  was  of  very  ancient  date,  for  King  Morken, 
traditionally  associated  with  St  JIungo  (see  Glasgow), 
had  a  residence  at  Pertmet,  which  is  supposed  to  be 
Partick,  and  in  the  chartulary  of  Glasgow  mention  is 
early  and  frequently  made  of  Perdeyc  or  Perthik.  It 
has  been  already  mentioned  that  lands  at  Perdeyc  were 
among  those  granted  by  David  I.  to  the  Bishop  of  Glas- 
gow in  1136  ;  and  within  the  next  centm-y  there  was  an 
episcopal  residence  at  the  place,  for  in  1277  we  find  a 
grant  made  by  Maurice,  Lord  of  Luss,  of  wood  for  the 
repair  of  the  Cathedral,  and  this  document  is  dated  from 
'Perthik,' where  Luss  is  presumed  tohave  been  at  the  time 
on  a  visit  to  the  bishop.  In  the  chartulary  there  is  also 
a  notarial  instrument  bearing  on  the  arbitration  by  the 
Bishops  of  Dunkeld,  Brechin,  Orkney,  and  Galloway, 
on  certain  differences  that  had  arisen  between  Bishop 
William  of  Glasgow  and  his  chapter.  This  deed  bears 
date  30  June  1362,  '  ajnid  mancriuin  dicti  domini  Glas- 
gucnsis  ejriscopi  de  Perthik. '  An  old  castellated  building, 
which  stood  immediately  to  the  W  of  the  junction  of 
the  Kelvin  and  Clyde,  and  the  ruins  of  which  remained 
down  till  about  1836,  used  to  be  regarded  as  the  remains 
of  this  residence  ;  but  it  was  really  of  much  later  date. 
Chalmers,  in  his  Caledonia,  describes  it  as  built  in  1611 
by  Archbishop  Spottiswoode,  but  this  is  a  mistake  ;  for 
though  the  building  was  undoubtedly  erected  in  or 
about  1611,  the  work  was  carried  out,  not  for  Spottis- 
woode, but  for  George  Hutcheson,  the  founder  of  Hutche- 
son's  Hospital,  Glasgow.  That  this  is  so  is  abundantly 
proved  by  the  contract  (still  in  existence)  for  its  con- 
struction entered  into  between  Hutcheson  and  William 
Miller,  mason  in  Kilwinning,  in  which  the  standard 
foot,  by  which  the  various  dimensions  of  the  building 
were  to  be  settled,  is  specially  declared  to  be  '  ye  said 
George's  awn  fute.'  Hamilton  of  Wishaw,  in  his  De- 
scription of  the  Slieriffdom  of  Lanark,  also  writes  to  the 
same  effect : — '  Where  Kelvin  falls  into  Clyde  is  the 
house  of  Pertic[ue,  a  well-built  and  convenient  house, 


well  planted  with  barren  timber,  large  gardens,  inclosed 
with  stone  walls,  which  formerly  belonged  to  George 
Hutcheson,  founder  of  the  Hospital  Hutcheson  in  Glas- 
gow.' It  is  possible,  however,  that  Hutcheson's  house 
may  have  been  built  on  the  site  of  the  bishop's  residence, 
and  though  no  traces  of  the  latter  have  come  down  to 
recent  times,  the  early  references  leave  no  doubt  of  the 
fact  of  its  existence. 

At  the  close  of  last  century,  according  to  Dr  Strang, 
Partick  was  '  a  rural  village,  nestling  among  umbrageous 
trees,  and  standing  by  the  side  of  a  limpid  and  gurgling 
stream,  which  flowed  through  its  centre. '  It  was  almost 
a  Sabbath  day's  journey  from  Glasgow,  and  contained 
'  a  dozen  or  two  comfortable  and  clean  cottages, '  among 
which  the  most  noteworthy  was  a  public-house  known 
as  'The  bun  and  yill  house,'  to  which  a  club  of  jovial 
spirits  used  every  Saturday,  at  the  proper  season,  to 
resort  for  a  dinner  of  duck  and  green  peas.  From  thin 
condition  Partick  was  first  wakened  up  about  thirty 
years  ago,  when  villas  began  to  be  built  about  it,  and 
now  an  excellent  villa  quarter  covers  the  whole  of  the 
north-western  part  of  it.  The  rest  of  it  is  devoted  to 
'  lands '  for  the  artisan  class,  and  the  streets  are  busy 
with  din  and  bustle,  while  the  noise  of  the  riveters' 
hammers  breaks  loudly  in  from  the  adjacent  boiler  and 
shipbuilding  works,  where  most  of  the  working-class 
inhabitants  iind  employment.  In  1834,  when  Partick 
became  a  quoad  sacra  parish,  the  population  was  under 
3000  ;  in  1852,  when  the  police  burgh  was  originally 
constituted  under  the  General  Police  Act  of  1850,  the 
population  was  5337.  The  Lindsay  Act  was  adopted  in 
1866,  and  the  aft'airs  are  now  managed  by  a  senior 
magistrate,  2  junior  magistrates,  and  9  commissioners. 
Since  1869  there  has  been  a  division  into  4  wards,  each 
having  3  representatives.  The  burgh  rate  is  Is.  74d. 
per  £,  and  the  income  in  1881  was  £11,212,  14s.  24d. 
The  rental  for  1881  was  £130,628.  Pop.  (1871)  17,707, 
(1875)  23,770,  (1881)  27,410.  In  the  latter  year  the 
number  of  houses  was  6558,  of  which  1090  were  unin- 
habited and  21  were  building. 

Immediately  to  the  NE  of  Partick,  and  like  it, 
separated  from  Glasgow  by  the  Kelvin,  is  the  burgh  of 
Hillhead,  which  has  an  area  of  129  acres.  Hillhead 
occupies  a  commanding  and  airy  situation,  and  has  for 
more  than  thirty  years  been  a  favourite  suburban  dis- 
trict. It  is  entirely  occupied  by  shops  and  houses,  there 
being  no  trade  carried  on  to  the  destruction  of  its 
amenity.  It  was  under  the  Lindsay  Act  constituted  a 
police  burgh  in  1869,  at  which  time  the  rental  was 
£32,697,  12s.  6d.,  and  the  population  3654.  In  1881 
the  rental  was  £79,955,  lis.  3d.,  and  the  population 
6684,  while  there  were  1521  houses,  of  which  234  were 
unoccupied  and  35  were  building.  The  burgh  income 
in  1880-81  was  £8214,  13s.  8d.,  and  the  rate  of  assess- 
ment was  Is.  3id.  per  £.  To  the  N  of  Partick  and  to 
the  W  and  SW  of  Hillhead  are  the  large  districts  of 
Dowanhill  and  Kelvinside  entirely  occupied  by  self-con- 
tained houses  either  in  terraces  or  detached  villas,  these 
districts  forming  two  of  the  most  aristocratic  c^uarters  of 
suburban  Glasgow.  The  former  extends  over  496  acres, 
while  Kelvinside  extends  to  742.  In  1875-76  the  latter 
district  offered  successful  resistance  to  an  effort  for  the 
extension  of  the  Hillhead  burgh  boundary  so  as  to 
include  it.  To  the  W  of  Partick  is  the  village  of  White- 
inch  with  a  population  employed  in  the  adjoining  ship- 
building yards. 

Educational  Affairs. — The  inhabitants  of  Govan  in 
the  17th  century  seem  to  have  been  advanced  in  their 
educational  views,  for  in  the  records  of  the  kirk-session 
of  the  parish  for  1653,  it  is  recorded  that  'the  session 
does  ordain  that  everie  elder  in  their  several  carters  do 
search  who  have  children  able  and  fit  to  come  to  schoole, 
and  does  not  send  them,  to  deal  wt.  them  for  that  effect, 
and  to  signifie  that  if  they  prove  deficient  hereinto, 
according  to  an  old  act  of  session,  they  will  be  oblidged 
to  pay  their  qrter,  as  well  as  if  they  came  to  this  schooU,' 
but  it  is  somewhat  to  be  feared  that  their  descendants 
were  not  so  strict,  for  when  the  Govan  school-board  came 
into  existence  in  1873  it  found  11,082  children  of  school 

207 


GOVAN 

age  in  the  parisli,  witli  accommodation  in  46  schools 
for  only  6583,  and  only  6049  children  of  school  age  on 
the  rolls.  Of  these  schools  only  one  was  a  public  school 
(the  old  parish  school  at  Govan  Cross),  and  the  hoard 
at  once  proceeded  with  the  erection  of  new  schools,  and 
it  has  now  (Dec.  1882)  under  its  charge  14  schools 
finished  and  opened.  These,  with  their  accommodation 
at  8  square  feet  per  scholar,  the  area  of  the  site  and 
the  cost  per  scholar,  exclusive  of  cost  of  site,  are  given 
in  the  following  table  : — 


School. 

Accom- 
modation. 

Area  of  Site 

in  Square 

Yards. 

Cost  per 
Scholar. 

Anderson  Street,     .    . 
Broomloan  Road,    .     . 
Calder  Street,      .    .    . 
Church  Street,    .    .    . 
Copeland  Eoad,  ,     .    . 

Fairfield 

Govan  Cross 

Kiunin^  Park,     .     .     . 
Lambhill  Street,      .     . 
Pollokshields,      .    .    . 

Polmadie 

Rosevale  Street, .     .     . 
"Whiteiuch,     .... 

587 
960 
944 
695 
441 
900 
234 
730 
1614 
7S6 
620 
932 
735 

2501 
2334 
1971 
800 
2444 

1700 
3169 
2328 
2435 
2327 
2104 

£6    4    5 
7    3    6 
7    3    0 
4  17    7i 
2  14    OJ 

7  5     7 
1     8  105 

8  1     4i 

6  19     2' 
8    8    Oi 

7  17    2 

7  16    1 

8  16    2 

Of  these  the  Anderson  Street  and  Copland  Road 
schools  were  transferred  to  the  board,  while  the  Church 
Street  school  was  purchased,  and  Govan  Cross  school  is 
the  old  parish  school.  The  remaining  9  have  been  huilt 
by  the  board,  and  have  cost  for  buildings,  etc. ,  exclusive 
of  sites,  at  the  average  rate  of  £7,  12s.  3d.,  or  inclusive 
of  site,  £9,  14s.  7|d.  per  scholar.  In  the  3  newer 
schools,  in  accordance  with  the  new  rule  of  the  educa- 
tion department,  accommodation  for  infants  will  he  at 
8  square  feet,  and  for  other  scholars  at  10  square  feet. 
Albert  Road  school,  opened  in  the  present  month  (Dec. 
1882)  by  the  Right  Hon.  Mr  Forster,  has  accommoda- 
tion for  852  pupils,  and  a  site  of  2435  square  yards,  and 
the  cost  per  child  is  £9,  10s.  5d.  It  is  one  of  the 
handsomest  of  the  schools  as  yet  erected  by  the  board. 
Schools  at  Harmony  Row  and  Rutland  Crescent  are  at 
present  in  course  of  construction,  and  these  will  jointly 
accommodate  1970  scholars  at  an  estimated  cost  of  about 
£10  per  scholar,  and  it  is  calculated  that  should  the 
population  go  on  increasing  as  it  has  been  doing  during 
the  last  10  years,  the  board  will  require  to  erect  a  new 
school  every  year.  There  are  now  in  the  parish  14 
board  schools  with  accommodation  for  10,828  pupils,  6 
other  schools  under  government  inspection,  with  accom- 
modation for  3070,  31  higher  class  schools,  with  accom- 
modation for  7321,  and  8  private  elementary  schools, 
with  space  for  505  pupils,  or  total  accommodation  for 
21,724,  and  with  the  addition  of  Harmony  Row  and 
Rutland  Crescent  schools,  accommodation  for  23,694 
as  against  children  of  school  age,  according  to  a  census 
just  (Dec.  1882)  taken,  to  the  number  of  24,259,  of 
whom  18,815  or  77'56  per  cent,  were  on  school  rolls. 
The  average  percentage  of  passes  in  reading,  writing, 
and  arithmetic  in  1881  was  92'73  as  against  87'7  for  all 
Scotland,  while  in  the  same  year  the  grants  earned 
amounted  to  £6832,  6s.  2d.  or  an  average  of  18s.  Ifd. 
per  scholar.  In  1881  the  fees  amounted  to  £6568, 
Os.  Id.,  or  at  the  rate  of  17s.  5id.  per  scholar.  Even- 
ing classes  are  carried  on  in  five  of  the  schools.  The 
building  loans  received  by  the  board  amount  to  nearlj' 
£100,000,  of  which  about  £10,000  has  been  paid  off.  In 
1881  the  income  from  fees  and  grants,  etc.,  was  £14,379, 
14s.  lOd.,  and  the  teachers'  salaries  £11,273,  18s.  8d., 
so  that  the  schools  are  more  than  self-supporting. 
The  salaries  of  head-masters  range  from  £520  to  £200, 
of  male  assistants  from  £110  to  £70,  and  of  female 
assistants  from  £100  to  £50.  The  total  income  of  the 
hoard  for  1881  was  £30,128,  2s.  2d.,  and  the  total  ex- 
penditure £26,284,  10s.  2d.  In  1881  the  total  popula- 
tion of  the  parish  within  the  school-board  district  {i.e. 
outwith  the  Glasgow  municipal  boundaries)  was  123,108. 
208 


GOVAN 

In  April  1881  the  sum  of  £1000  was  gifted  by  Alex- 
ander Stephen,  Esq.,  chairman  of  the  board  since  1873, 
the  interest  to  be  applied  every  year  in  aiding  a  boy  to 
attend  classes  at  Glasgow  University.  Candidates  must 
be  at  the  time,  and  have  been  for  two  years  previously, 
pupils  at  one  of  the  Govan  hoard  schools.  The  selection 
is  made  by  competitive  examination,  and  the  bursary  is 
known  as  the  Alexander  Stephen  bursary. 

The  six  schools  not  managed  by  the  board  hut  under 
inspection  are  Abraham  Hill's  Trust  School,  Govan  ; 
three  Roman  Catholic  schools  at  respectively  Govan, 
Kinning  Park,  and  Partick  ;  an  Established  Church 
female  industrial  school  at  Partick,  and  Partick  Academy. 
The  last  is  a  high  class  school  for  both  boys  and  girls, 
and  the  other  principal  high  class  schools  are  BeUa- 
houston  Academy  at  Ibrox  for  boys  and  girls,  and  Kel- 
vinside  Academy  at  Kelvinside  for  hoys. 

Ecclesiastical  and  Parochial  Affairs. — Ecclesiastically, 
the  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Glasgow  and  the 
sjmod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and,  besides  the  parish 
proper,  includes  the  17  quoad  sacra  parishes  of  Abbots- 
ford  (pop.,  1881,  8891),  Bellahouston  (6149),  Dean 
Park  (3915),  Gorbals  (2641),  Hillhead  (erected  since 
census  of  1881),  Hutchesontown  (9205),  Kingston  (7041), 
Kinning  Park  (12,758),  Laurieston  (10,040),  Maxwell 
(13,269),  Partick  (8698),  Partick,  St  Mary's  (8722), 
Plantation  (11,524),  Pollokshields  (erected  since  census 
of  1881),  St  Bernard's  (11,176),  Strathbungo  (3172), 
Whiteinch  (4468),  while  the  parish  of  Kiaran  is  at 
present,  as  has  already  been  mentioned,  in  course  of 
erection.  A  very  small  part  of  Kelvinhaugh  quoad 
sacra  parish,  belonging  to  the  civil  parish  of  Govan,  has 
a  population  of  10  ;  and  the  ecclesiastical  parish  of 
Govan  itself  had  still,  in  1881,  the  large  population  of 
107,920.  There  are  mission  churches  at  Govanhill, 
Hyndlands,  Oatlands,  and  Govan  (West  Church).  In- 
cluding Kiaran,  eleven  of  these  quoad  sacra  parishes 
and  the  four  mission  churches  have  been  established 
since  1875. 

There  are  now  (1882)  22  Free  churches  in  the  parish  : 
— Augustine,  Candlish  Memorial,  Gorbals,  Govan  St., 
Columba's  and  Govan  St  Mary's,  Hillhead,  Hutcheson- 
town, Kelvinside,  Kingston,  Kinning  Park,  Knox, 
Paisley  Road,  Partick  Dowanvale  and  Partick  High, 
Pollokshields,  Renwick,  Rose  Street,  Tradeston,  Union, 
Victoria,  Westboume,  and  "Whiteinch,  while  there  is  a 
Gaelic  mission  church  at  Partick.  There  are  (1882)  19 
U.P.  churches: — Belhaven,  Caledonia  Road,  Cumber- 
land Street,  Eglinton  Street,  Elgin  Street,  Erskine, 
Fairfield,  Govan,  Govanhill,  Hutchesontown,  Ibrox, 
Oatlands,  Partick  Dowanhill,  Partick  East  and  Partick 
Newton  Place,  Plantation,  Pollokshields,  Pollok  Street, 
and  Whiteinch.  There  are,  besides  these,  5  Roman 
Catholic  churches,  3  Congregational,  3  Evangelical 
Union,  2  Baptist,  2  Episcopal,  2  Wesleyan  Methodist, 
1  Original  Seceder,  and  a  barrack  belonging  to  the  Sal- 
vation Army.  The  parish  is,  for  registration  purposes, 
divided  into  the  districts  of  Govan,  Hutchesontown, 
Gorbals,  Tradeston,  and  Kinning  Park. 

For  parochial  afi'airs  the  parish  has  been  united  with 
Gorbals  since  1873,  as  has  been  already  noticed,  in 
what  is  known  as  Govan  Combination.  The  original 
poorhouse  was  in  Gorbals,  and  has  been  noticed  in  the 
article  Glasgow.  The  present  poorhouse  is  at  Merry- 
flatts,  to  the  W  of  Govan,  and  was  finished  in  1872, 
at  a  cost  of  £100,000.  It  has  accommodation  for  over 
700  paupers  and  over  200  lunatics  ;  but  the  Court  of 
Session  having  recently  decided  that  the  Glasgow 
District  Board  of  Lunacy  are  not  bound  to  take  over 
the  Merryflatts  Asylum,  and  are,  notwithstanding  its 
existence,  entitled  to  impose  a  lunacy  assessment  within 
the  Govan  Combination  district,  it  is  possible  that  the 
lunatic  accommodation  may  be  otherwise  utilised  and 
provision  for  the  pauper  lunatics  made  by  the  District 
Lunacy  Board.  On  14  Nov.  1882,  at  the  close  of  tha 
half-year,  there  were  in  the  poorhouse  545  paupers  and 
220  lunatics.  The  stafi'  consists  of  48  members,  in- 
cluding a  governor,  a  medical  officer  and  assistant,  a 
chaplain,   a    matron,    a  teacher,    a    governor's    clerk, 


GOVAN 


GEAHAMSLAW 


warders,  lunatic  attendants,  and  tradesmen.  During 
the  last  half-year  127  children  were  receiving  education 
in  the  poorhouse.  For  the  year  ending  14  May  1882 
the  total  expenditure  on  indoor  poor  in  the  poorhouse 
and  asylum,  including  salaries,  etc.,  was  £10,760, 
10s.  2|d.,  or  at  the  rate  of  £13,  14s.  Ijd.  per  head  per 
annum  ;  while,  for  the  half-year  from  14  May  to  14 
Nov.  1882,  the  expenditure  for  the  same  purpose  was 
£5489,  Os.  8d.  The  total  receipts  of  the  board  for 
parochial  purposes  for  the  year  ending  14  May  1882 
were  £48,253,  17s.,  and  the  expenditure  £38,404, 
16s.  6d.  During  the  same  period  there  were  3793  appli- 
cations for  relief,  of  which  598  were  from  natives  of  the 
parish,  1758  from  natives  of  other  parishes  in  Scotland, 
115  from  natives  of  England,  1280  from  natives  of  Ire- 
land, and  42  from  natives  of  foreign  countries — iigures 
worthy  of  notice,  as  showing  the  varied  elements  of  the 
population,  and  particularly  noticeable  in  respect  of  the 
large  number  of  Irish  applications.  Of  5603  persons, 
with  5059  dependants,  chargeable  during  the  whole 
year  1881-82,  no  less  than  1414,  with  1655  dependants, 
or  over  25  per  cent.,  were  natives  of  Ireland.  The 
total  number  of  registered  poor  at  15  May  1882,  ex- 
elusive  of  dependants,  was  2466,  and  at  14  Nov. 
2388,  of  which  799  were  indoor  at  the  former  period, 
and  765  at  the  latter. 

A  comparison  of  figures  between  the  years  1862  and 
1881  brings  out  some  noteworthy  results.  During  that 
time  the  popiilation  of  the  parish  had  increased  from 
105,716  to  232,896  and  the  adult  registered  poor  from 
1692  to  4102,  or  from  1-60  to  176  per  cent,  of  the  popu- 
lation— a  very  slight  rise  indeed,  when  we  consider  the 
poor  condition  of  many  of  the  districts  included  in  the 
combination,  and  a  result  highly  creditable  to  the  able 
and  judicious  administration  of  the  parochial  board  and 
its  responsible  officials,  as  is  also  the  fact  that,  not- 
withstanding the  gi-eatly  increased  cost  of  most  things, 
the  average  cost  of  each  pauper,  in  proportion  to  the 
assessment,  has,  in  the  same  jieriod  of  twenty  years, 
only  increased  from  £4,  lis.  2d.  to  £4,  13s.  3d.,  while 
the  increase  of  assessment,  from  8id.  per  £  to  9id.,  is 
entirely  due  to  Id.  of  increase  on  the  building  rate 
necessary  in  connection  with  the  erection  of  the  Merry- 
flatts  poorhouse.  In  1881  the  average  cost  of  each 
person  receiving  parochial  relief  was  £6,  13s.  3Jd.,  while 
the  average  cost  for  the  whole  of  Scotland  was  £8, 
6s.  lOJd.,  and  the  average  cost  of  the  registered  poor 
per  head  £9,  18s.  6d. ,  while  the  average  cost  for  the 
whole  of  Scotland  was  £10,  13s.  6id.  It  is  very  notice- 
able that  between  1862  and  1881  the  proportion  of 
insane  poor  has  increased  from  '07  per  cent,  of  the  popu- 
lation and  472  per  cent,  of  the  adult  paupers  to  'IS 
and  10 '48  per  cent,  respectively,  and  the  proportion  of 
orphans  and  deserted  children  from  '09  per  cent,  of  the 
population  and  5  '67  per  cent,  of  the  adult  paupers  to 
•22  and  1279  per  cent,  respectively.  The  number  of 
chOdren  of  poor  parents  whose  education  is  defrayed 
by  the  parochial  board  is  about  600  every  year.  The 
board  consists  of  33  members,  and  the  inspector's  and 
collector's  departments  have  a  staff  of  27  persons,  in- 
cluding an  inspector,  a  collector,  and  7  assistant  in- 
spectors. There  are  also  five  parochial  doctors  for 
respectively  the  Govan,  Partick,  east,  west,  and  central 
districts. 

Rental  (1839)  £100,913,  3s.  2d.,  (1861)  £380,000, 
(1866)  £497,790,  15s.  7d.,  (1871)  £654,281,  6s.  2d., 
(1876)  £1,030,942,  17s.  2d.,  (1878)  £1,148,277,  8s., 
(1879)  £1,135,257,  12s.  7d.  (the  result  of  the  failure  of 
the  City  of  Glasgow  Bank),  (1880)  £1,151,687,  15s.  7d., 
(18S1)£1, 178,463,  6s.,  (1882)— Glasgow,  £515,941,  14s.; 
suburban  burghs,  £579,401,  19s.  lid. ;  outwith  these 
£127,549,  7s.  4d.;  total  valuation,  £1,222,893,  Is.  3d. 
Pop.  (1775)  4389,  (1793)  8318,  (1831)  26,695,  (1861) 
105,716,  (1871)  151,402,  (1881)  232,896.— Or(^.  Siir., 
sh.  30,  1866. 

See  also  M'Ure's  Vieio  of  the  City  of  Glasgow  (1736, 
new  ed.  1830);  Brown's  History  of  Glasgow  (1795-1797); 
Denholm's  History  of  the  City  of  Glasgow  (1804) ;  Cle- 
land's  Annals  of  Glasgow  (1816) ;  Hamilton's  Descrip- 


tion of  the  Sheriffdom,  of  Lanark  and  Renfrew  (Maitland 
Club,  1831) ;  Uegistrum  Episcopatus  Glasgitcnsis  (Mait- 
land Club,  1843) ;  a  valuable  article  by  the  late  Dr 
Leishman  in  the  New  Statistical  Account  of  Scotland 
(Vol.  for  Lanarkshire,  1845) ;  Strang's  Glasgow  and  its 
Clubs  (1856) ;  Eeid's  (Senex)  Old  Glasgow  and  its  En- 
virons (1864) ;  Wallace's  The  Parish  of  Govan  as  it  was 
and  is  (1877)  ;  and  AYallace's  Popular  Sketch  of  the 
History  of  Glasgow  (1882). 

Govaniill.     See  Govan,  Lanarkshire. 

Govan  Iron-Works.    SccGlasgow,  p.  123,  and  Govan. 

Govel,  or  EWck  Bum,  a  rivulet  of  New  Machar  parish, 
SE  Aberdeenshire,  running  8  miles  south-south-eastward 
tiU  it  falls  into  the  Don,  |  mile  above  the  bridge  of 
Dyce.  It  is  crossed,  near  its  mouth,  by  a  stone  bridge 
built  and  endowed  by  a  travelling  merchant,  who  nearly 
lost  his  life  here  in  a  snow-storm. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  77, 
1873. 

Gowanbank,  a  village  in  St  Vigeans  parish,  Forfar- 
shire, 3J  miles  NW  of  Arbroath,  under  which  it  has  a 
post  ofiice. 

Gower,  Port.     See  Pokt  Gowek. 

Gowkhall,  a  village  in  Carnock  parish,  Fife,  3  miles 
W  of  DunfeiTnline. 

Gowland  or  Gowling.     See  Stirling. 

Gowrie.  See  Caese  of  Gowkie,  Blairgoweie,  and 
Perthshire. 

Goyle.     See  GoiL. 

Graden,  a  burn  in  Coldstream  parish,  S  Berwickshire, 
rising  2  miles  NNW  of  Coldstream  town,  and  running 
3J  miles  east-north-eastward  to  the  Tweed  at  Milne- 
Graden.  At  the  beginning  of  last  century  a  village  of 
Graden  stood  not  far  from  its  jxiouth.^Urd.  Sur.,  sh. 
26,  1864. 

Graden,  a  farm  in  Linton  parish,  NE  Roxburghshire, 
4  miles  WNW  of  Yetholm,  ou  the  soutliem  border  of 
the  parish.  The  Kerrs  of  Graden  figured  prominently 
in  Border  warfare  ;  and  traces  still  exist  of  Graden  Place, 
their  ancient  fortalice. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  26,  1864. 

Graemsay,  an  island  of  Hoy  parish,  Orkney,  in  Hoy 
Sound,  -J  mile  S  of  Stromness,  and  ^  mile  E  of  Bow- 
kirk  in  Hoy  island.  Measuring  IJ  mile  in  length 
from  N"W  to  SE,  and  1  in  breadth,  it  is  all  low  and 
level ;  lies,  almost  throughout,  on  a  bed  of  schistose 
rock  ;  and  is  mainly  covered  with  excellent  soil,  much 
of  it  being  arable.  Two  lighthouses,  guiding  the  navi- 
gation of  Hoy  Sound,  were  erected  on  the  island  in 
1851  at  a  cost  of  £15,880.  They  bear  from  each  other 
SE  J  E  and  NW  J  W ;  and  they  show  lights  visible 
at  the  distance  of  11  and  15  nautical  miles.  The  higher 
light,  towards  the  western  entrance  of  Hoy  Sound,  is  a 
fixed  red  light,  illuminating  an  arc  from  SE  by  E  to 
SE  A  S  towards  SE  ;  and  also  shows,  towards  Strom- 
ness,"a  bright  fixed  light  from  SSE  J  E  to  WSW  ;  and 
towards  Cava,  an  arc  from  NNW  i  W  to  N  |  W 
southerly.  The  lower  light  is  a  fixed  bright  light  from 
E  i  S  to  W  i  N,  facing  northward.  'The  island  was 
anciently  a  vicarage  united  to  Hoy  rectory,  and  served 
every  third  Sunday  by  the  minister  of  Hoy  ;  but  it 
neither  pays  stipend  nor  has  any  glebe  ;  and  it  is  now 
under  the  pastoral  care  of  the  minister  of  Stromness. 
Pop.  (1831)  225,  (1861)  2.30,  (1871)  250,  (1881)  236. 

Graham's  Castle,  a  ruined  fortalice  on  the  western 
border  of  St  Ninians  parish,  Stirlingshire,  near  the  left 
bank  of  Endrick  Water,  3i  miles  E  of  Eintry  hamlet, 
and  9  SW  of  Stirling.  It  belonged  to  Sir  John  de 
Graham,  who  co-operated  with  Sir  William  Wallace  and 
feU  on  the  battlefield  of  Falkirk  (1298),  and  it  is  said 
to  have  often  served  as  a  retreat  of  Wallace.  It  must, 
in  his  time,  have  been  difficult  of  access ;  and  it  appears, 
from  the  extent  of  its  moat  and  the  thickness  of  its 
walls,  to  have  been  a  structure  of  considerable  size  and 
great  strength. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  31,  1867. 

Graham's  Dyke.     See  Antoninus'  Wall. 

Graham's  Kaowe.     See  Newttle. 

Grahamslaw,  a  hamlet  in  Eckford  parish,  Roxburgh- 
shire, 5  miles  S  of  Kelso.  Several  artificial  caves  near 
it,  on  the  banks  of  the  river  Kale,  were  retreats  or 
hiding-places  of  the  Covenanters  in  the  times  of  the 

209 


GBAEAMSTON 

persecution.  Haughliead,  notable  as  the  meeting-place 
of  one  of  the  greatest  conventicles  of  the  Covenanters, 
is  also  adjacent  to  the  hamlet,  and  occasions  it  to  he 
sometimes  called  Grahamslaw-Haughhead.— 0/(^.  Sur., 
sh.  25,  1865. 

Grahamston,  a  quoad  sacra  parish  in  Falkirk  parish 
Stirlingshire.  Constituted  in  1875,  it  is  in  the  presby- 
tery of  Linlithgow  and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweed- 
dale  ;  the  nominal  stipend  is  £120.  Church,  iron- 
works, etc.,  are  noticed  under  Falkikk.  Pop.  (1881) 
5203. 

Grahamston.     See  Baekhead. 

Graitney.     See  Gketna. 

Grampians,  the  broad  fringe  of  mountain  that  ex- 
tends along  the  eastern  side  of  the  Highlands  of  Scot- 
land, overlooks  the  western  portion  of  the  Lowlands, 
and  forms  the  natural  barrier  or  boundary  between  the 
two  main  divisions  of  the  kingdom.  In  early  times 
this  range  was  always  called  the  Mounth  or  Mound,  and 
Hector  Boece  (1620)  was  the  first  to  apply  to  it  the 
name  of  Grampians  or  iI/o?is  Grarapius,  which  he  found 
mentioned  in  Tacitus'  Agricola  (97  a.d.)  as  the  scene  of 
Agricola's  crushing  defeat  of  Calgacus  or  Galgacus  in 
86  A.D.  This,  the  original  Mons  Grampius  (or  rather 
Granpius  *),  appears  to  have  been  situated  beyond  the 
Tay ;  but  it  is  difficult,  if  not  impossible,  to  fix  its  exact 
locality.  Gordon  placed  it  at  Dalginross,  Chalmers  at 
Ardoch,  others  in  Fife,  others  again  at  Urie  in  Eincar- 
dineshire ;  but  Dr  Skene  inclines  to  the  opinion  that  it 
was  at  the  peninsula  formed  by  the  junction  of  the 
Isla  with  the  Tay.  Here  are  remains  of  a  strong  and 
massive  vaUum,  called  Cleaven  Dyke,  before  which  a 
plain  extends  to  the  foot  of  Blair  Hill  ( '  mount  of 
battle ').  Be  this  as  it  may,  the  name  Grampians  is 
so  loosely  applied  in  popular  usage,  and  has  been  so 
obscured  by  injudicious  and  mistaken  description,  as 
utterly  to  want  the  definiteness  of  meaning  essential  to 
distmct  topography.  The  most  current  account  of  the 
Grampians  describes  them  as  '  a  chain '  of  mountains 
extending  from  Dumbarton,  or  from  the  hills  behind 
Gareloch  opposite  Greenock,  or  from  the  district  of 
Cowal  in  Argyllshire,  to  the  sea  at  Stonehaven,  or  to 
the  interior  of  Aberdeenshire,  or  to  the  eastern  exterior 
of  the  coasts  of  Elginshire  and  Banffshire ;  hut  that 
account,  besides  containing  a  three-fold  or  a  six-fold 
alternative  within  itself,  is  utterly  inaccurate  in  treat- 
ing the  mountains  as  '  a  chain. '  No  definition  will 
include  all  the  mountains  popularly  called  Grampians, 
and  at  the  same  time  exclude  others  not  so  called, 
except  one  which  regards  them  simply  as  the  mountain 
front,  some  files  deep,  which  the  Highlands,  from  their 
southern  continental  extremity  to  a  champaign  country 
on  their  flank  E  of  the  Tay,  present  to  the  Lowlands. 
But  thus  defined,  or  even  if  defined  in  any  other  way 
which  shall  not  limit  them  to  at  most  a  comparatively 
small  part  of  their  central  portions,  they  are  far  from 
being,  in  the  usual  topographical  sense  of  the  word,  '  a 
chain.'  From  Cowal,  north-eastward  to  the  extremity 
of  Dumbartonshire,  they  rise  in  elevations  so  utterly 
independent  of  one  another  as  to  admit  long  separating 
bays  between  their  parts,  and  are  of  such  various  forms 
and  heights  and  modes  of  continuation  as  to  be  at  best 
a  series  of  ridges  and  of  isolated  masses,  some  of  them 
contributing  the  length,  and  others  contributing  merely 
the  breadth,  to  their  prolongation.  E  and  N  of  Loch 
Lomond  in  Stirlingshire  their  features  are  so  distinctive 
and  peculiar,  and  their  amassment  or  congeries  is  so 
dominated  by  the  monarch  summit  of  Ben  Lomond,  as 
to  have  occasioned  them  to  be  known  scarcely  as  part 
of  the  Grampians,  but  distinctively  as  the  Lomond 
HUls.  Along  Breadalbane  and  throughout  the  greater 
part  of  the  other  upland  districts  of  Perthshire,  they 
consist  chiefly  of  lateral  ridges  running  from  W  to  E  or 
from  NW  to  SE,  entirely  separated  from  one  another 
by  long  intersecting  valleys,  and  occasionally  standing 
far  apart  on  opposite  sides  of  long  and  not  very  narrow 

*  Wex,  in  his  edition  of  the  Agricola  (1852),  adopted  the  reading: 
Mone  Granpius,  a  reading  accepted  by  Dr  Hill  Burton,  but  re- 
jected by  Dr  Skene. 
210 


GRAMPIANS 

sheets  of  water ;  and  they  even,  as  in  the  instances  cf 
Schiehallion  and  Benglo,  include  isolated,  huge,  con- 
spicuous monarch  mountains,  which  possess  not  one 
character  of  alliance  to  any  of  the  groups  or  ridges 
except  their  occupying  areas  within  the  Highland 
frontier.  In  the  NW  and  N  of  Forfarshire,  in  the  ad- 
jacent parts  of  Aberdeenshire  and  Perthshire,  and  along 
part  of  the  mutual  border  of  Perthshire  and  Inverness- 
shire,  they  at  last  assume  the  character  of  a  chain  or 
broad,  mountain  elongation,  with  aggregately  such  lofti- 
ness of  summits  and  such  comparative  uniformity  and 
distinctiveness  of  character  as  to  be  well  entitled  to  some 
designation  peculiarly  their  own,  and  there  they  are 
commonly  denominated  the  Central  Grampians.  In 
Kincardineshire  they  fork  into  detached  courses,  and 
almost  lose  what  is  conventionally  understood  to  be  a 
Highland  character ;  and,  where  they  are  popidarly 
said  to  terminate  on  the  coast,  are  of  so  comiiaratively 
soft  an  outline  and  of  so  inconsiderable  an  elevation, 
that  a  stranger  who  had  heard  of  the  mountain  grandeur 
of  the  Grampians,  but  had  not  learned  to  trace  them 
hither,  might  here  pass  over  them  without  suspecting 
to  be  nearer  them  than  scores  of  miles.  Northward,  or 
rather  westward  and  north-westward,  of  the  low  Kin- 
cardineshire ranges,  which  loose  popular  statement  very 
frequently  represents  as  the  terminating  part  of  the 
chain,  they  consist  partly  of  some  anomalous  eminences, 
but  mainly  of  two  ridges,  one  of  which  flanks  the  dis- 
trict of  Mar  on  the  SW,  while  the  other  extends  along 
the  mutual  border  of  Aberdeenshire  and  Banffshire. 

A  mountain  region  so  extensive  and  diversified  cannot 
be  described  with  even  proximate  accuracy,  except  in 
detailed  views  of  its  several  parts.  Yet  if  only  the  main 
portion  of  it  be  regarded,  or  that  which  extends  from 
the  SW  of  Perthshire  to  the  mutual  border  of  Forfar-  J 
shire  and  Aherdeensliire,  the  following  description  will,  I 
as  a  general  one,  be  found  correct: — 'The  front  of  the 
Grampians  toward  the  Lowlands  has  in  many  places  a 
gradual  and  pleasant  slope  into  a  champaign  country  of 
great  extent  and  fertility  ;  and,  notwithstanding  the 
forbidding  aspect  at  first  sight  of  the  mountains  them- 
selves, with  their  covering  of  heath  and  their  rugged 
rocks,  they  are  intersected  in  a  thousand  directions  by 
winding  valleys,  watered  by  rivers  and  brooks  of  the 
most  limpid  water,  clad  with  the  richest  pastures,  shel- 
tered by  thriving  woods  on  the  sides  of  lakes  and 
streams,  and  are  accessible  in  most  cases  by  excellent 
roads.  The  valleys,  which  exhibit  such  a  variety  of 
natural  beauty,  also  iform  a  contrast  with  the  ruggedness 
of  the  surrounding  mountains,  and  present  to  the  eye 
the  most  romantic  scenery.  The  rivers  in  the  deep 
defiles  struggle  to  find  a  passage ;  and  often  the  opposite 
hOls  approach  so  near  that  the  waters  rush  with  in- 
credible force  and  deafening  noise  in  proportion  to  the 
height  of  tlie  fall  and  the  width  of  the  opening.  These 
defiles  are  commonly  called  passes  ;  and  they  are  strik- 
ingly exemplified  in  the  Pass  of  Leny,  the  Pass  of 
Aberfoyle,  the  Pass  of  Killiecrankie,  and  the  Spittal 
of  Glenshee.  Beyond  these  plains  of  various  extent 
appear  filled  with  villages  and  cultivated  fields.  In 
the  interstices  are  numerous  expanses  of  water  con- 
nected with  rivulets  stored  with  a  variety  of  fish,  and 
adorned  on  their  banks  and  flanks  with  wood.  The 
craggy  tops  of  the  heights  are  covered  with  flocks  of 
sheep,  and  the  pastures  in  the  valleys  maintain  numer- 
ous herds  of  black  cattle.  The  height  of  the  moimtains 
varies  from  1400  to  3500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
but  rises,  in  several  instances,  still  higher ;  and  the  N 
side,  in  general,  is  more  rugged  than  the  S,  and  exhibits 
huge  masses  piled  on  one  another  in  most  awful  magni- 
ficence. '  Long  reaches  of  them  can  only  be  crossed  on 
foot ;  but  most  are  traversed  through  the  passes  by  good 
carriage  roads,  and  two  sections  of  nearly  the  boldest 
character  are  now  traversed  by  railways — the  one  through  |fl 
the  Pass  of  Leny  and  Glenogle,  the  other  the  Pass  of  -^f 
Killiecrankie  and  Glengarry.  The  range,  whose  highest 
summit-line  forms  the  western  and  nortliern  boundary  of 
Forfarshire,  bears  the  distinctive  name  of  Bench  innin, 
and  has  been  noticed  in  our  article  under  that  title ;  and 


GEANPHOLM 

a  great  culminating  group  around  the  meeting-points  of 
Perth,  Aberdeen,  Banti',  and  Inverness  shires,  forms  the 
eastern  and  grandest  part  of  what  are  called  the  Central 
Gramcians,  and  bears  the  distinctive  name  of  the 
Cairngokm  Mountains.  See  G.  F.  Robson's  Scenery  of 
the  Grampian  Mountains  (1814). 

Grandholm,  a  village,  with  woollen  works,  in  Old 
Machar  parish,  Aberdeenshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Don,  opposite  Woodsido,  and  2  miles  NNW  of  Aber- 
deen. Grandholm  Cottage,  long  the  residence  of  James 
Hadden,  Esq. ,  the  principal  proprietor  of  the  mills,  and 
provost  of  Aberdeen,  stood  on  the  brow  of  a  rising 
ground  commanding  an  extensive  view  of  the  Don's 
valley,  and  about  1849  was  replaced  by  a  handsome 
edifice.  Grandholm  House,  an  older  mansion,  stands 
higher  up  the  Don,  2  miles  N  of  Auchmill,  and  is  the 
seat  of  AVilliam  Roger  Paton,  Esq.  (b.  1857  ;  sue. 
1879),  who  holds  1745  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at 
£2050  per  annum.— Oc(^.  Siir.,  sh.  77,  1873. 

Grandiscole,  a  village  in  Bressay  parish,  Shetland, 
distant  li  mile  from  Lerwick. 

GrandtuUy  Castle.     See  Grantully. 

Grange.    See  Edinburgh. 

Grange,  a  parish  in  the  Strathisla  district  of  Banff- 
shire, containing,  towards  its  southern  extremity.  Grange 
Junction  on  the  Great  North  of  Scotland  railway,  4i 
miles  E  by  S  of  the  post-town  Keith,  16J  SW  of  Banff, 
35  SW  of  Knock  (another  station  in  Grange),  8^  NNW 
of  Huntly,  and  48|  NW  of  Aberdeen.  It  is  bounded  N 
by  Deskford,  NE  by  Fordyce  and  Ordiquhill,  E  by 
Marnoch,  SE  by  P>othiemay,  S  by  Cairnie  in  Aberdeen- 
shire, and  SW  and  W  by  Keith.  Its  utmost  length, 
from  E  to  W,  is  6  miles  ;  its  utmost  breadth,  from  N  to 
S,  is  5J  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  6348f  acres,  of  which 
52  are  water.  The  river  Isla  winds  7  furlongs  east- 
ward along  the  Keith  border,  then  3J  miles  east-south- 
eastward through  the  southern  interior,  on  its  way  to 
the  Deveron ;  and  to  the  Isla  run  Altmore  Burn  SJ 
miles  southward  along  all  the  western  border,  Shiel 
Burn  4J-  miles  south-westward  along  all  the  boundary 
with  Rothiemay,  and  two  lesser  burns  that  drain  the  in- 
terior. Tire  surface  is  somewhat  hilly,  sinking  to  295  feet 
above  sea-level  at  the  Shiel's  influx  to  the  Isla,  and  rising 
thence  to  913  and  1199  feet  at  *Little  and  *Meikle 
Balloch,  810  at  Sillyearn  Hill,  537  near  Crannach,  1409 
at  "Knock  HiU,  1028  at  *Lurg  Hill,  and  860  at  *Black 
Hill,  where  asterisks  mark  those  summits  that  culminate 
on  or  close  to  the  confines  of  the  parish.  The  rocks  are 
mainly  Silurian ;  and  limestone  has  been  largely  quarried; 
whilst  plumbago — a  comparatively  rare  mineral — occurs 
at  Seggiecrook.  Much  of  the  arable  soil  is  excellent ; 
but  much,  again,  rests  upon  such  stubborn  subsoil  as  to 
resist  all  efforts  at  improvement.  Most  or  all  of  the 
land  was  anciently  covered  with  forest ;  and  there  is 
now  a  largish  extent  of  peat-moss,  embedding  roots  and 
trunks  of  primeval  trees.  Grange  Castle,  once  the 
residence  of  a  section  of  the  Kinloss  community,  under 
a  sub-prior,  who  here  had  a  large  farm  or  grange  that 
gave  the  parish  its  name,  stood  on  the  rising  ground 
now  occupied  by  the  parish  church,  and  overlooked 
extensive  haughs  along  the  course  of  the  Isla.  A 
stately  edifice,  surrounded  by  a  narrow  moat,  it  left, 
till  a  comparatively  recent  period,  considerable  remains. 
The  Gallow  or  Green  Hill  was  the  place  of  capital  execu- 
tion by  sentence  of  the  Abbots  of  Kinloss,  and  figures 
dismally  in  local  tradition.  Remains  of  several  trenches 
or  encampments,  supposed  to  have  been  formed  by  either 
the  ancient  Caledonians  or  the  Picts,  are  on  the  haughs 
of  the  Isla  ;  and  scenes  of  ancient  battles  are  pointed  out 
by  dim  tradition  on  the  N  side  of  Gallow  Hill,  on  the  S 
side  of  Knock  Hill,  and  at  Auchincove  near  the  Isla. 
Edingight  is  the  chief  mansion  ;  and  the  Earl  of  Fife 
shares  most  of  the  parish  with  Sir  John  Innes  and  the 
Earl  of  Seafield.  Grange  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Strath- 
bogie  and  synod  of  Moray ;  the  living  is  worth  £374. 
The  parish  church,  IJ  mile  WNW  of  Grange  Junction, 
was  built  in  1795,  and  contains  616  sittings.  There  are 
also  Free  and  U.  P.  churches ;  and  three  public  schools 
— Crossroads,   Grange,  and  SiUyearn — with  respective 


GEANGEMOUTH 

accommodation  for  120,  113,  and  120  children,  had 
(1881)  an  average  attendance  of  82,  68,  and  64,  and 
grants  of  £74,  16s.,  £63,  14s.,  and  £51,  93.  Valuation 
(1843)  £5299,  (1881)  £7470.  Pop.  (1801)  1529,  (1831) 
1492,  (1861)  1909,  (1871)  1876,  (1881)  llU.—Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  86,  1876.  See  the  Rev.  Dr  J.  F.  S.  Gordon's  Book 
oftJie  Chronicles  of  Keith,  Grange,  etc.  (Glasg.  1880). 

Grange,  a  hamlet  in  St  Andrews  parish,  Fife,  1  mile 
SSE  of  St  Andrews  city. 

Grange.     See  Penkinghame. 

Grange,  an  estate  in  Burntisland  parish,  Fife,  1  mile 
N  of  the  town.  It  belonged  to  Sir  WUliam  Kirkaldy, 
commonly  called  Kirkaldy  of  Grange,  who  in  1573  was 
hanged  at  Edinburgh  in  the  cause  of  Queen  Mary ;  and  it 
now  is  annexed  to  the  estate  of  Raith.  An  extensive 
distillery  is  on  it ;  and  excellent  sandstone  has  been 
largely  quarried. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  40,  1867. 

Grange,  an  estate,  with  a  modern  mansion  (now  a 
farmhouse),  in  Monifieth  parish,  SE  Forfarshire,  2^  miles 
NE  of  Broughty  Ferry.  An  ancient  mansion,  on  the 
same  site  as  the  present  one,  was  the  seat  of  Durham  of 
Grange,  an  influential  agent  in  the  work  of  the  Refor- 
mation, and  a  near  kinsman  of  Erskine  of  Dun,  who 
often  visited  him,  and  here  is  said  to  have  narrowly 
escaped  being  taken  prisoner  by  his  enemies.  In  1650 
the  great  Marquis  of  Montrose,  on  his  way  from  Assynt 
to  be  tried  at  Edinburgh,  lay  a  night  at  Grange  ;  and 
the  laird's  lady  made  a  futQe  attempt  to  smuggle  him 
out,  disguised  as  a  woman,  past  the  drunken  sentinels. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  49,  1865. 

Grange.     See  St  Vigeans. 

Grange  or  Westquarter  Burn,  a  rivulet  of  Falkirk 
and  Polmont  parishes,  SE  Stirlingshii-e.  Rising  near 
Barleyside  at  an  altitude  of  580  feet,  it  first  runs  4 
miles  east-north-eastward  through  Falkirk  pari.sh  to  a 
point  5  furlongs  S  by  E  of  Callendar  House,  and  then 
winds  4J  miles  north-eastward  and  northward  along  the 
boundary  between  Falkirk  and  Polmont,  till  it  falls 
into  the  Carron  at  Grangemouth. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  31, 
1867. 

Grange  Beil.     See  Eeil-Grange. 

Grange,  East.     See  Culross. 

Grange  Fell,  a  hill  in  the  E  of  Tundergarth  parish, 
Dumfriesshire,  rising  1045  feet  above  sea-level. 

Grange  Hall,  a  modern  mansion  in  Kinloss  parish, 
NW  Elginshire,  2J  miles  NE  of  Forres.  A  fine  four- 
storied  freestone  edifice,  it  is  the  seat  of  James  Grant- 
Peterkin,  Esq.  (b.  1837  ;  sue.  1878),  who  holds  1148 
acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1676  per  annum. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  95,  1876. 

Grange  House,  an  old  mansion  in  Carriden  parish, 
Linlithgowshire,  IJ  mile  E  of  Borrowstouuness.  It  is 
the  seat  of  Henry  Cadell,  Esq.  (b.  1812  ;  sue.  1858), 
who  holds  534  acres  in  Linlithgowshire  and  1129  in 
Stirlingshire,  valued  at  £3727  and  £1373  per  annum. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  32,  1857. 

Grange  House,  a  mansion  in  Maybole  parish,  Ayrshire, 
3i  miles  NNE  of  the  town. 

Grangemouth,  a  seaport  and  post-town  in  the  parishes 
of  Falkirk,  Bothkennar,  and  Polmont,  SE  Stirlingshire. 
Built  about  the  entrance  of  the  Forth  and  Clyde 
Canal,  where  the  Grange  Bm'n  falls  into  the  river 
Carron,  it  is  7  furlongs  above  the  confluence  of  the  latter 
stream  and  the  Forth,  and  3  miles  ENE  of  Falkirk, 
with  which  and  Larbert  it  is  connected  by  branch  lines 
of  the  North  British  and  the  Caledonian.  The  town 
was  founded  in  1777  by  Sir  Lawrence  Dundas,  in  con- 
nection with  the  formation  of  the  canal,  which  was 
opened  in  1790  ;  and  it  soon  became  a  place  of  some 
importance  through  the  canal  traffic,  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  Carron  Iron-works,  and  the  convenience  of  the 
situation.  All  the  trade  of  Stirlingshire  speedily  found 
its  way  to  the  new  port,  and  its  trade  was  benefited  by 
the  high  shore-dues  levied  at  Leith.  Till  1810,  Grange- 
mouth was  a  creek  of  Bo'ness,  but,  in  that  year,  it  was 
recognised  as  a  head  port  by  the  custom  house.  In  1836 
permission  was  obtained  from  parliament  by  the  coim- 
cillors  of  the  Forth  and  Clyde  Navigation,  to  construct 
a  dock ;  and  this,   now  known  as  the  old  dock,  was 

211 


GRANGEMOUTH 

opened  in  1843.  It  covers  an  area  of  7J  acres ;  and 
one-half  of  it  has  a  depth  of  17  feet,  the  remainder 
drawing  only  13  feet  of  water.  Up  till  1859,  when 
another  basin  was  formed,  the  trade  was  mostly  coast- 
wise ;  but  there  has  since  arisen  a  considerable  foreign 
and  colonial  trade,  as  shown  by  the  following  table, 
which  gives  the  tonnage  of  vessels  that  entered  from 
and  to  foreign  and  colonial  ports  and  coastwise  with  car- 
goes and  in  ballast : — 


Entered. 

Cleared. 

1853,  . 
1867,  . 
1873,  . 
1877,  . 
ISSl,  . 

British. 

Foreign. 

Total. 

British. 

Foreign. 

Total. 

95,486 
153,378 
194,899 
314,278 
303,899 

78^422 
144,337 
121,068 

79,826 

95,486 
231,800 
339,236 
435,346 
382,725 

95,050 
136,613 
199,143 
315,293 
306,164 

74,375 
149,122 
117,837 

76,916 

95,050 
210,988 
348,265 
433,130 
383,080 

Of  the  total,  1519  vessels  of  382,725  tons,  that  entered 
in  1881,  970  of  287,804  tons  were  steamers,  137  of 
21,265  tons  were  in  ballast,  and  982  of  263,608  tons 
were  coasters;  whilst  the  total,  1517  of  383,080  tons, 
of  those  that  cleared,  included  977  steamers  of  290,959 
tons,  689  ships  in  ballast  of  177,219  tons,  and  1005 
coasters  of  258,513  tons.  Again,  the  total  tonnage  of 
vessels  registered  as  belonging  to  the  port  was  9080 
(only  828  steamers)  in  1853,  12,649  in  1869,  8270  in 
1874,  and  10,499  in  1881,  viz.,  57  sailing  vessels  of  1875 
tons  and  32  steamers  of  8624.  This  increase,  and  the 
fact  that  it  was  a  common  experience  to  have  from  40  to 
80  vessels  lying  in  the  Roads  waiting  for  room  in  the 
docks,  showed  the  necessity  of  extending  the  harbour 
accommodation  ;  and  in  1876  the  necessary  powers  for 
the  construction  of  the  new  dock  were  obtained.  After 
considerable  engineering  difficulties,  arising  from  the 
nature  of  the  soil,  the  dock  was  formally  opened  on 
3  June  1882  amid  much  enthusiasm,  the  interest  of  the 
occasion  being  enhanced  by  the  inauguration,  on  the 
same  day,  of  a  public  park  presented  to  the  burgh  by 
the  Earl  of  Zetland.  The  new  works,  which  cost 
£300,000,  give  a  water  area  of  19J  acres  for  the  new 
docks  and  timber  basins,  lOJ  acres  being  the  actual  ex- 
tent of  the  dock.  The  entrance  is  55  feet  wide,  with  a 
depth  on  the  sill  of  26  feet.  Outside  tlie  gates,  on  the 
E  side,  is  a  wall  850  feet  long,  where  ships  can  unload 
should  they  be  hindered  from  entering  the  dock  by  lack 
of  water.  At  the  entrance  there  is  a  depth  at  low  water 
of  8  feet ;  the  rise  in  spring  tides  is  18  feet  and  14  in 
neap  tides.  The  quayage  extends  to  900  yards,  and 
the  length  of  the  dock  is  1100  feet,  its  breadth  400. 
The  timber-basin,  at  the  S  end,  is  8  acres  in  extent, 
and  has  a  depth  of  8  feet.  A  channel,  70  feet  wide  and 
15  feet  deep,  passing  through  the  new  timber-basin,  con- 
nects the  old  and  the  new  docks,  and  a  substantial  swing 
bridge,  laid  with  rails,  spans  the  entrance  to  the  dock. 
The  quays  of  the  dock  have  been  fully  equipped  with 
hydraulic  coal-hoists  on  an  admirable  system  and  with 
Armstrong  cranes.  At  the  bridges,  which  are  arranged 
to  move  by  water-power,  hand  power  is  also  provided 
in  case  of  a  breakdown  of  the  hydraulic  machinery. 
Sheds  to  the  extent  of  600  feet  are  provided,  and  the 
railways  in  connection  with  the  works  have  a  total 
length  of  32  miles.  The  trade  of  the  port  is  of  a  general 
character,  the  principal  imports  being  timber,  metals, 
flax,  grain,  sugar,  fruit,  chemicals,  paper,  and  provi- 
sions. Of  timber  91,950  tons  were  imported  in  1879, 
160,018  in  1880,  and  92,940  in  1881.  In  spite  of 
its  proximity  to  the  great  iron-producing  districts  of 
Lanarkshire,  large  importations  of  pig-iron  from  Middles- 
brough have  recently  begun,  and,  in  1882,  amounted 
to  over  1000  tons  daily,  20,000  tons  being  forwarded 
yearly  to  Glasgow.  Of  coals  64,208  tons  were  shipped 
to  foreign  countries  and  coastwise  in  1860,  104,939  in 
1869,  174,526  in  1878,  and  101,359  in  1881,  when  the 
total  value  of  foreign  and  colonial  imports  was  £1, 087, 038 
(£1,255,943  in  1880)  and  of  exports  £354,657  (£565,884 
in  1875).  The  trade  between  Grangemouth  and  London, 
212 


GEANTON 

amounting  to  100,000  tons  annually,  is  wholly  in  the 
hands  of  the  Carron  Iron  Company,  and  there  are  nu- 
merous steamship  lines  trading  with  ports  in  Norway, 
Sweden,  the  Baltic,  and  elsewhere.  The  first  steamer 
launched  from  Grangemouth  was  the  Hecla,  80  feet  long, 
built  in  1839  as  a  tug  for  use  at  Memel,  in  Prussia  ;  and 
shipbuilding,  after  declining  for  several  years,  has  again 
revived,  12  vessels  of  1835  tons  having  been  launched 
here  during  1879-81,  all  of  them  iron,  and  all  steamers 
but  two.  Employment  is  also  afforded  by  saw-mills, 
brick  and  tile  works,  and  a  rope  and  sail  factory. 

Apart  from  its  trade  and  manufactures,  Grangemouth 
is  a  place  of  little  note.  It  is  regularly  and  substan- 
tially bmlt,  but  is  far  from  picturesque.  This  chiefly 
arises  from  the  situation,  which  is  low  and  flat ;  and 
this,  with  the  prevalence  of  so  much  water  in  river, 
canal,  and  docks,  has  led  to  Grangemouth  being  likened 
to  a  Dutch  town.  It  has  a  post  office,  with  money 
order,  savings'  bank,  insurance,  and  telegraph  depart- 
ments, branches  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland  and  the  Commer- 
cial Bank,  offices  or  agencies  of  22  insurance  companies, 
2  hotels,  a  gas  company,  a  good  recent  water  supply, 
etc.  The  Public  Institute,  erected  in  1876-77  at  a  cost 
of  £2100,  contains  a  lecture-room,  with  accommodation 
for  450  persons ;  the  public  park,  8  acres  in  extent,  is 
adorned  with  a  handsome  spray  fountain.  In  1880  ■ 
Grangemouth  was  constituted  a  quoad  sacra  parish  in 
the  presbytery  of  Linlithgow  and  sjmod  of  Lothian  and 
Tweeddale.  Its  church  is  an  Early  English  edifice, 
with  a  spire  60  feet  high,  having  been  erected  in  1866 
as  a  chapel  of  ease,  in  lieu  of  one  built  by  the  fii'st  Earl 
of  Zetland  in  1837.  The  Free  church  is  a  handsome 
edifice  of  1883,  in  the  Gothic  style,  and  there  is  also 
a  United  Presbyterian  place  of  worship.  Two  public 
schools,  Dundas  (1875)  and  Zetland  (1827),  with  respec- 
tive accommodation  for  486  and  327  children,  had  (1881) 
an  average  attendance  of  433  and  250,  and  grants  of 
£412,  14s.  and  £232,  3s.  Erected  into  a  police  burgh, 
under  the  Lindsay  Act  in  1872,  Grangemouth  is  governed 
by  nine  commissioners.  In  1881  the  Earl  of  Zetland, 
whose  seat,  Eeese  House,  stands  5  furlongs  SW  of 
the  town,  asserted  his  superior  rights  over  the  burgh 
by  pointing  out  that  the  feu-charters  he  had  granted 
forbade  the  establishment  of  public-houses.  The 
attempt  to  suppress  such  houses  gave  rise  to  a  litigation 
which  was  carried  on  in  the  Supreme  Courts  of  Scotland 
and  the  House  of  Lords  for  a  long  time.  In  the  Court 
of  Session  it  was  held  that  such  powers  in  a  feu-charter 
were  contrary  to  public  policy,  and  could  not  be  en- 
forced ;  but  on  appeal  the  House  of  Lords  reversed  this 
decision,  holding  that  the  only  question  to  be  tried  was 
whether  the  superior's  rights  had  lapsed  by  disuse.  The 
municipal  constituency  numbered  882  in  1883,  when 
the  annual  value  of  real  propertv  amounted  to  £32,382. 
Pop.  (1831)  1155,  (1841)  1488,  (1861)2000,  (1871)2569, 
(1881)  4560,  of  whom  2382  were  males;  whilst  2993 
were  in  Falkirk  parish,  1493  in  Bothkennar,  and  94  in 
Polmont.  Houses  (1881)  856  inhabited,  77  vacant,  2 
building.— Oi-rf.  Sur.,  sh.  31,  1867. 

Grangemuir,  an  estate,  with  a  handsome  modern 
mansion,  in  Anstruther-Wester  parish,  Fife,  IJ  mile 
NNW  of  Pittenweem.  Its  o^mer,  Walter  Douglas- 
Irvine,  Esq.  (b.  1825  ;  sue.  1867),  holds  2697  acres  in 
the  shire,  valued  at  £5298  per  annum. — Ord.  Siir.,  sh.' 
41,  1857. 

GrangepaJis,  a  coast  village,  with  a  public  school,  in 
Carriden  parish,  Linlithgowshire,  adjoining  the  eastern 
extremity  of  Borrowstounness.  It  formerly  had  exten- 
sive salt-pans  and  a  chemical  work,  but  now  it  merely 
shares  in  the  industry  of  Borrowstounness.  Pop.  (1861) 
747,  (1871)  876,  (1881)  792. 

Grannoch,  Loch.     See  Grennooh. 

Grant  Castle.    See  Castle-Grant. 

Granton,  a  seaport  and  post-town  in  the  parishes  of 
Cramond  and  St  Cuthbert's,  Edinburghshire,  5J  mUes 
S  by  E  of  Burntisland,  2J  W  by  N  of  Leith,  and  2| 
NW  by  N  of  Edinburgh  Post  Office.  Historically  it 
is  notable  as  the  point  where  English  troops  landed 
in  1544  under  the  Earl  of  Hertford  before  they  ravaged 


GRANTON 


GRANTOWN 


Leith.  The  real  importance  of  the  place  dates  from 
1835,  when  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch  began  the  extensive 
harbour  works.  Hitherto  the  want  of  a  deep-sea  har- 
bour in  the  Firth  of  Forth  had  been  much  felt,  and 
the  Duke,  who  is  superior  of  the  place,  applied  part 
of  his  large  revenues  to  a  purpose  which  has  proved 
greatly  to  the  public  benefit  as  well  as  a  most  remunera- 
tive investment  of  capital.  A  beginning  was  made  in 
Nov.  1835,  and  the  harbour  was  partly  opened  on  28 
June  1838,  memorable  as  the  coronation  day  of  Queen 
Victoria.  On  account  of  this  coincidence  one  of  the 
jetties  is  called  Victoria  Jetty  ;  and  on  1  Sept.  1842  the 
Queen  and  Prince  Albert  landed  here,  and  were  met  by 
the  Duke  of  Buccleuch,  Sir  Robert  Peel,  and  others. 
The  pier  was  completed  in  1845  at  a  cost  of  £80,000  ; 
and  the  two  magnificent  E  and  W  breakwaters,  3170 
and  3100  feet  long,  were  constructed  at  a  later  period, 
at  a  cost,  with  accessory  works,  of  £150,000.  The  pier 
itself  is  1700  feet  long,  and  from  80  to  160  broad. 
There  ai'e  four  pairs  of  jetties,  each  90  feet  long,  and 
two  slips,  325  feet  in  length,  for  the  landing  of  goods 
at  all  stages  of  the  tide.  A  strong  wall  runs  down  the 
middle  of  the  pier  ;  and  it  is  well  furnished  with  rail- 
way lines,  goods'  sheds,  cranes,  and  other  necessary 
appliances.  Since  1848  the  E  side  of  the  pier  has  been 
the  starting  point  of  the  North  British  railway  steamers 
for  Burntisland,  and  a  station  is  provided  there  for  the 
use  of  passengers.  The  most  interesting  feature  of  the 
ferry  is  the  arrangement  by  which  loaded  trucks  are 
shipped  upon  large  steamers  and  conveyed  across,  thus 
saving  the  loading,  unloading,  and  reloading  of  the 
goods.  The  ingenious  but  simple  system  by  which  this 
is  managed  at  all  states  of  tide  by  means  of  movable 
stages  and  powerful  stationary  engines  was  the  inven- 
tion of  the  late  Sir  Thomas  Bouch,  C.E.  In  addition 
to  being  thus  an  important  part  of  the  North  British 
trunk  line  to  the  north,  Granton  is  connected  with  the 
Caledonian  railway  by  a  branch  used  only  for  goods 
traffic.  At  the  W  end  of  the  harbour  is  an  extensive 
patent  slip  for  vessels  of  1400  tons  ;  but  actual  ship- 
building is  a  thing  of  the  past,  no  vessels  having  been 
launched  here  since  1875.  From  the  central  pier  east- 
ward to  Trinity  a  substantial  sea-wall  was  erected  in 
connection  with  the  harbour  ;  and  along  the  top  of  this 
the  railway  from  Edinburgh  approaches  the  pier.  The 
depth  of  water  at  the  entrance  to  the  harbour  is  nearly 
30  feet  at  spring  tides,  and  it  is  accessible  at  most  times 
to  vessels  of  considerable  burden,  affording  one  of  the 
safest  and  easiest  anchorages  on  the  E  coast  of  Scotland. 
The  port  is  the  headquarters  of  several  lines  of  steamers 
trading  to  Aberdeen  and  other  northern  Scottish  ports, 
London,  Christiania,  Gothenburg,  etc. ,  as  well  as  of  the 
fishery  protection  and  preventive  vessels  of  the  district. 
At  first  Granton  ranked  as  a  sub-port  to  Leith,  but  in 
1860  the  customs  authorities  constituted  it  a  head  port. 
The  foUomng  table  gives  the  tonnage  of  vessels  that 
entered  and  cleared  from  and  to  foreign  coimtries  and 
coastwise  with  cargoes  and  in  ballast : — 


Entered. 

Cleaked. 

1S70,  . 
1875,  . 
1881,  . 

British. 

Foreign. 

Total. 

British. 

Foreig:n. 

Total. 

162,235 
194,832 
146,950 

96,701 
86,361 
89,221 

248,936 
281,193 
236,171 

148,646 
195,341 
146,670 

80,766 
87,266 
88,819 

229,312 
282,606 
235,489 

Of  the  total,  755  vessels  of  236,171  tons,  that  entered 
in  1881,  345  of  173,004  tons  were  steamers,  454  of 
132,960  tons  were  in  ballast,  and  479  of  142,078  tons 
were  coasters ;  whilst  the  total,  754  of  235,489  tons,  of 
those  that  cleared,  included  344  steamers  of  172,537 
tons,  150  ships  in  ballast  ofl9,736ton,s,  and  411  coasters 
of  117,715  tons.  The  total  tonnage  of  vessels  registered 
as  belonging  to  the  port  was  1348  (648  steam)  in  1869, 
1792  (271  steam)  in  1873,  and  2561  on  31  Deo.  1881, 
viz.,  3  sailing  ships  of  228  and  18  steamers  of  2333  tons. 
The  total  value  of  foreign  and  colonial  imports  was 


£323,657  in  1876,  £156,143  in  1879,  and  £204,530  in 
1881  ;  of  customs  revenue  £63,615  in  1875,  £112,744  in 
1878,  and  £111,704  in  1881 ;  of  exports  £225,034  in 
1875,  £122,788  in  1879,  and  £166,328  in  1881.  The 
trade  is  in  coal,  grain,  timber,  iron,  tobacco,  etc.  ;  and 
Granton  has  one  of  the  finest  tobacco  bonding  ware- 
houses in  the  country,  with  an  area  of  14,000  feet, 
besides  a  saw-mill,  a  foundry,  and  the  chemical  works 
of  Caroline  Park. 

In  comparison  with  the  importance  of  the  port  the 
town  of  Granton  is  most  insignificant.  Facing  the 
shore  end  of  the  pier  is  a  square  or  rather  place,  one  side 
of  which  is  entirely  occupied  by  a  commodious  hotel, 
another  consists  of  substantial  stone  dwelling-houses, 
while  the  third  remains  unbuilt.  The  rest  of  the  town 
is  almost  all  composed  of  temporary  brick  houses,  as  an 
extension  of  the  railway  and  harbour  works  is  anticipated. 
This  expectation  it  is  that  gives  rise  to  restrictions  as  to 
building  which  have  hitherto  limited  the  increase  of 
the  town.  Granton  Established  mission  church,  close 
to  the  hotel,  is  an  elegant  edifice  of  1879,  founded  by 
the  Duke  of  Buccleuch  ;  while  Granton  and  Wardie  Free 
church,  1  mile  SSE,  was  erected  in  1880-81,  and  is 
adorned  with  several  stained-glass  windows.  There  are 
a  county  police  station,  a  public  school,  a  branch  of  the 
Royal  Bank,  and  a  reading-room  (1881)  of  a  literary 
association  in  Granton,  which  is  provided  with  a  filtered 
water  supply  brought  from  Corstorphine  Hill.  To  the 
W  is  a  small  six  gun  battery  used  for  the  practice  of  the 
City  of  Edinburgh  Artillery  Volunteers,  and  still  further 
in  the  same  direction  is  Granton  Quarry,  from  which  the 
stone  for  the  pier  and  breakwaters  was  excavated,  and 
which  was  suddenly  submerged  by  the  sea  one  night 
about  twenty  years  ago.  The  quarry  is  now  used  by  an 
Edinburgh  fishmonger  as  a  lobster  nursery.  Pop.  (1861) 
661,  (1871)  976,  (1881)  927.— 0«Z.  Sm:,  sh.  32,  1857. 

Grantown,  a  small  town  in  Cromdale  parish,  Elgin- 
shire, within  f  mile  of  the  Spey's  left  bank.  Standing 
700  feet  above  sea-level,  f  mile  NNE  of  one  station  on 
the  Highland  railway,  and  1 J  N  by  W  of  another  (across 
the  river)  on  the  Strathspey  section  of  the  Great  North 
of  Scotland,  by  road  it  is  34  miles  ESE  of  Inverness,  23 
SSE  of  Nairn,  and  34  SW  by  S  of  Elgin,  whilst  from  its 
two  stations  it  is  23^  miles  S  of  Forres,  96  N  by  AV  of 
Perth,  141i  N  by  W  of  Edinburgh,  and  24  SW  of 
Craigellachie  Junction.  It  was  founded  on  a  regular 
plan  in  1776  by  Sir  James  Grant,  Bart,  of  Castle 
Grant  ;  and,  comprising  a  central  rectangle  700  by  108 
feet,  it  mainly  consists  of  small  neat  houses  of  whitish 
fine-grained  granite,  so  as  to  equal  or  excel  nearly  all 
other  places  of  its  size  in  Scotland.  The  site,  too,  is  a 
pleasant  one,  in  broad  Strathspey,  with  its  hills  and 
mountains  ;  and  the  views  are  beautiful,  away  to  the  far 
Cairngorms.  Surrounded  on  all  sides  by  forests  of  pine 
and  birch  stretching  away  southward  and  eastward,  and 
joining  the  forests  of  Ballindalloch  and  Kothiemurchus, 
the  whole  district  around  Grantown  is  of  the  most  salu- 
brious character.  In  no  other  part  of  Scotland  are 
there  more  octogenarians  and  nonogenarians  to  be  met 
with.  Castle  Grant,  the  seat  of  the  Right  Hon.  the 
Earl  of  Seafleld,  chief  of  the  great  elan  Grant,  stands 
2-i  miles  NNE  of  the  town,  in  the  midst  of  a  demesne 
of  more  than  1000  acres  in  extent,  thickly  planted  with 
pines  of  various  kinds,  and  brought  from  all  the  pine- 
bearing  regions  of  the  world — from  the  slopes  of  the 
Himalayas  of  Bengal  and  the  Rocky  Mountains  of 
America.  The  surrounding  forests  belonging  to  the 
Earl  of  Seafield  were  traversed  by  a  commission  delegated 
by  the  French  Government  in  1881,  and,  as  to  manage- 
ment and  arrangement,  were  reported  on  as  being  per- 
fect. In  spring  and  summer  the  climate  is  wai-m, 
but  mildly  bracing  rather  than  exhausting  ;  in  winter 
it  is  cold,  and  occasionally  intense,  the  thermometer 
ranging  from  2°  to  10°  below  zero.  Sudden  atmospheric 
changes  are,  however,  infrequent ;  and  hence,  while  in 
summer  it  is  favoui'able  for  invalids,  and  highly  recom- 
mended by  the  leading  physicians  of  London  and  Edin- 
burgh, in  winter  it  is  even  exhilarating  to  debilitated 
constitutions.     Hence  it  is  finding  increasing  favour  as  a 

213 


GEANTOWN 

holiday  resort.  In  1877  a  public  hall,  with  400  sittings, 
was  built  at  a  cost  of  £1500  ;  a  gravitation  water  supply, 
giving  68  gallons  a  head  per  diem,  was  introduced  in 
1881 ;  and  Grantown  besides  has  a  post  oiBce,  with 
money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  departments, 
branches  of  the  Caledonian,  National,  and  Royal  Banks, 
the  Strathspey  National  Security  Savings'  Bank  (1846), 
offices  or  agencies  of  12  insurance  companies,  3  hotels, 
a  court-house,  a  gas-light  company,  an  orphanage  (1824), 
a  public  library  (1859),  and  an  agricultural  society  (1812). 
Friday  is  market-day,  and  16  fairs  are  held  in  the  course 
of  the  year.  The  great  event  in  Grantown's  history  is 
the  visit  paid  to  it  by  the  Queen  and  Prince  Albert 
during  the  'First  Great  Expedition'  to  Glen  Feshie 
(4  Sept.  1860),  a  visit  thus  described  in  the  Queen's 
Journal ; — '  On  and  on  we  went,  till  at  length  we  saw 
lights,  and  drove  through  a  long  and  straggling  "  toun," 
and  turned  doun  a  smaU  court  to  the  door  of  the  inn 
[the  Grant  Arms].  Here  we  got  out  quickly — Lady 
Churchill  and  General  Grey  not  waiting  for  us.  We 
went  up  a  small  staircase,  and  were  shown  to  our  bed- 
room at  the  top  of  it — very  small  but  clean — with  a 
large  four-post  bed  which  nearly  filled  the  whole  room. 
Opjjosite  was  the  drawing  and  dining  room  in  one — 
very  tidy  and  well  sized.  Then  came  the  room  where 
Albert  dressed,  which  was  very  small.  The  two  maids 
(Jane  Shackle  was  with  me)  had  driven  over  by  another 
road  in  the  waggonette.  Made  ourselves  "  clean  and 
tidy,"  and  then  sat  down  to  our  dinner.  Grant  and 
Brown  were  to  have  waited  on  us,  but  were  "bashful," 
and  did  not.  A  ringleted  woman  did  everything  ;  and, 
when  dinner  was  over,  removed  the  cloth  and  placed 
the  bottle  of  wine  (our  own  which  we  had  brought)  on 
the  table  with  the  glasses,  which  was  the  old  English 
fashion.  The  dinner  was  very  fair,  and  all  very  clean — 
soup,  "hodge-podge,"  mutton  broth  with  vegetables, 
which  I  did  not  much  relish,  fowl  with  white  sauce, 
good  roast  lamb,  very  good  potatoes,  besides  one  or  two 
other  dishes,  which  I  did  not  taste,  ending  with  a  good 
tart  of  cranberries.  A  fter  dinner  I  tried  to  write  part 
of  this  account  (but  the  talking  round  me  confused  me), 
while  Albert  plaj'ed  at  "patience."  Then  went  away, 
to  begin  undressing,  and  it  was  about  half-past  eleven 
when  we  got  to  bed.  — (  Wednesday,  Sept.  5. )  A  misty, 
rainy  morning.  Had  not  slept  very  soundly.  We  got 
up  rather  early,  and  sat  working  and  reading  in  the 
drawing-room  till  the  breakfast  was  ready,  for  which 
we  had  to  wait  some  little  time.  Good  tea  and  bread 
and  butter,  and  some  excellent  porridge.  Jane  Shackle 
(who  was  very  useful  and  attentive)  said  that  they  had 
all  supped  together,  namely,  the  two  maids,  and  Grant, 
Broivn,  Stewart,  and  Walker- (who  was  still  there),  and 
were  very  merry  in  the  "commercial  room."  The 
people  were  very  amusing  about  us.  The  %voman  came 
in  while  they  were  at  their  dinner,  and  said  to  Grant, 
"Dr  Grey  wants  you,"  which  nearly  upset  the  gravity 
of  all  the  others;  then  they  told  Jane,  "Your  lady 
gives  no  trouble  ; "  and  Grant  in  the  morning  called  up 
to  Jane,  "Does  his  lordship  want  me?"  One  could 
look  on  the  street,  which  is  a  very  long  wide  one,  T\ith 
detached  houses,  from  our  window.  It  was  perfectly 
quiet,  no  one  stirring,  except  here  and  there  a  man 
driving  a  cart,  or  a  boy  going  along  on  his  errand. 
General  Grey  bought  himself  a  watch  in  a  shop  for  2Z.  ! 
At  length,  at  about  ten  minutes  to  ten  o'clock,  we 
started  in  the  same  carriage  and  the  same  way  as  yester- 
day, and  drove  up  to  Castle  Grant,  Lord  Seafield's 
place.  It  was  drizzling  almost  the  whole  time.  AVe 
did  not  get  out,  but  drove  back,  having  to  pass  through 
Grantown  again,  where  evidently  "the  murder  was 
out,"  for  all  the  people  were  in  the  street,  and  the  land- 
lady waved  her  pocket-handkerchief,  and  the  ringleted 
maid  (who  had  curl-papers  in  the  morning)  waved  a 
flag  from  the  window.  Our  coachman  evidently  did  not 
observe  or  guess  anything.  As  we  drove  out  of  the 
town,  turning  to  our  right  through  a  wood,  we  met 
many  people  coming  into  the  town,  which  the  coach- 
man said  was  for  a  funeral.  We  passed  over  the  Spey, 
by  the  Bridge  of  Spey.'  Inverallan  Established  church, 
214 


GREAT  COLONNABE 

built  in  1803,  till  1835  was  maintained  out  of  the  Royal 
Bounty  Fund,  and  was  raised  to  quoad  sacra  status  in 
1869.  There  are  also  a  Free  church  and  a  Baptist 
chapel,  which  latter,  dating  from  1805,  was  restored  in 
1882.  A  public  and  a  female  school,  with  respective 
accommodation  for  319  and  157  children,  had  (1881)  an 
average  attendance  of  119  and  144,  and  grants  of  £112, 
13s.  6d.  and  £105,  6s.  Pop.  (1841)  814,  (1861)  1334, 
(1871)  1322,  (1881)  IZU.—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  74,  1877. 

Grant's  House,  a  hamlet  near  the  western  verge  of 
Coldingham  parish,  Berwickshire,  on  the  left  bank  of 
Eye  Water,  41J  mUes  ESE  of  Edinburgh,  and  16  NW 
of  Berwick-upon-Tweed.  It  has  a  station  on  the  North 
British  railway,  a  post  office,  with  money  order,  savings' 
hank,  and  railway  telegraph  departments,  and  an  hotel. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  34,  1864. 

GrantuUy  Castle,  a  fine  old  baronial  mansion  in 
Dull  parish,  central  Perthshire,  near  the  right  bank  of 
the  Tay,  2i  miles  ENE  of  Aberfeldy,  and  2  SW  of  Gran- 
tully  station,  midway  between  that  town  and  BalKnluig 
Junction.  Supposed  to  have  been  built  in  1560,  and 
surrounded  by  noble  elm  trees,  it  mainly  consists  of  two 
five-storied  towers,  with  walls  9  feet  in  thickness,  and 
with  additions  of  1626  in  the  shape  of  gables,  pepper-box 
tm-rets,  and  the  like.  With  Traquair,  Craigcrook, 
Ravelston,  and  CraighaU-Rattray,  it  claims  to  be  the 
prototype  of  '  TuUy-Veolan '  in  Waverley;  and  now,  for 
several  years  unoccupied,  it  is  left  to  desolation  and 
decay.  The  lands  of  Grantully  were  first  possessed  as 
a  separate  estate  towards  the  close  of  the  14th  century 
by  Sir  John  Stewart,  Lord  of  Innermeath  and  Lorn, 
who  was  third  in  descent  from  Sir  John  Stewart  of  Bon- 
kill  and  fourth  from  Alexander,  lord  high  steward  of 
Scotland.  Erected  into  a  free  barony  by  a  charter  of 
1538,  renewed  in  1623  and  1671,  they  still  are  owned 
by  his  lineal  descendant.  Sir  Archibald-Douglas  Drum- 
mond-Stewart,  eighth  Bart,  since  1683  (b.  1817  ;  sue. 
1871),  who  holds  33,274  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at 
£18,000  per  annum.  The  original  castle  of  1414  or 
thereby,  1  mile  to  the  E,  has  left  some  vestiges  of  its 
foundations ;  whilst  St  Mary's  church,  f  mile  SSW, 
which  is  known  to  have  existed  in  1533,  retains  its  roof 
with  twelve  medallions  (1636)  painted  on  wood.  This 
was  the  burial  place  of  the  Barons  of  Grantully  before 
they  acquired  Mubtly  in  1615.  Grantully  chapel  of 
ease,  ^  mile  W  by  N  of  the  castle,  was  raised  to  quoad 
sacra  status  in  1883  ;  Grantully  inn  stands  within  200 
yards  of  the  station. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  55,  1869.  See  Dr 
WiUiam  Eraser's  Bed  Book  of  Grantully  (2  vols. ,  Edinb. , 
1868). 

Grapel.     See  Gaepel. 

Grassmarket.     See  Edinbtjkgh. 

Grassy  Walls,  a  Roman  camp,  now  all  but  obliterated, 
in  Scone  parish,  Perthshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tay, 
3|  miles  N  by  W  of  Perth.  Oblong  in  shape,  and  535 
yards  in  circumference,  it  seems  to  have  been  formed  by 
Agricola  (83  A.D. ),  and  by  Severus  (208)  to  have  been 
connected  by  a  road  with  Stirling  to  the  SW  and  Battle 
Dykes  to  the  NE.— OrtZ.  Sur.,  sh.  48,  1868.  See  Gen. 
William  Roy's  Military  Antiquities  of  the  Romans  (Lond. 
1793). 

Gray  House,  a  mansion  in  Liff  and  Benvie  parish, 
Forfarshire,  5  mUes  WNW  of  Dundee.  Built  by  the 
tenth  Lord  Gray  in  1715,  it  is  a  turreted  edifice  in  the 
Manorial  style,  and  stands  in  a  finely  wooded  park  of 
200  acres.  An  oak,  an  ash,  and  a  sycamore  have  a 
respective  height  of  65,  110,  and  81  feet,  and  a  girth 
of  26i,  181,  and  15^  feet  at  1  foot  from  the  ground. 
With  KiNFAUNS  Castle,  Gray  House  passed  in  1878 
to  E.  A.  Stuart-Gray,  Esq.— Orci.  Sur.,  sh.  48,  1868. 

Graystone,  a  village  in  Carmyllie  parish,  Forfarshire, 
7  J  mUes  W  by  N  of  Arbroath,  under  which  it  has  a  post 
office. 

Greanlin,  a  village  in  the  Isle  of  Skye,  Inverness- 
shire.     Its  post-town  is  Eilmuir,  under  Portree. 

Greannoch.     See  Grennooh. 

Great  Causeway.     See  Staffa. 

Great  Cave.     See  Gigha. 

Great  Colonnade.     See  Staffa. 


A 


GREAT  DOOR 

Great  Door.     See  Craignish. 

Great  Glen.     See  Glenmoee-nan-Albin. 

Greatmoor  Hill.     See  Gkitmoor. 

Great  North  of  Scotland  Railway,  a  railway  .?iip- 
■  plying  the  counties  of  Aberdeen,  Banff,  and  Elgin, 
I  and  part  of  Inverness-shire,  and  embracing  a  total 
of  287J  miles  of  line.  The  history  of  the  railway  be- 
tween 1846,  when  the  first  Act  was  obtained,  and  1866 
when  its  component  parts  were  consolidated  into  one, 
presents  the  usual  features  of  railway  enterprise  in 
Scotland,  embracing  a  series  of  Acts  of  Parliament,  and 
frequent  additions,  extensions,  and  internal  working 
arrangements.  The  first  Act  authorised  the  formation 
of  a  railway  from  Aberdeen  to  Inverness,  with  a  capital 
of  £2,000,000,  but  the  terminus  of  the  railway  is  at 
Keith,  between  which  point  and  Inverness  the  Highland 
railway  (see  Highland  Railway)  provides  the  connec- 
tion. In  the  same  year  Acts  were  passed  authorising  the 
Great  North  of  Scotland  Extension  railway,  reaching  by 
two  lines  to  Fraserburgh  and  Peterhead,  with  a  capital  of 
£533,333,  and  the  Deeside  railway,  Aberdeen  to  Aboyne, 
with  a  capital  of  £293,383.  Although  those  Acts  weiB 
obtained  in  1846,  it  was  not  until  Nov.  1852  that  the 
construction  of  the  main  line  was  begun,  and  the  rail- 
way was  opened  to  Huntly  in  Sept.  1854,  and  to  Keith  in 
Oct.  1856.  The  Deeside  was  re-incorporated  in  1852 
and  constructed  to  Banchory,  and  in  1857  the  extension 

(from  Banchory  to  Aboyne  was  authorised,  and  under  an 
Act  of  1865  the  extension  to  Braemar  was  sanctioned, 
making  43^  miles  in  all.  In  1866  the  Deeside  line  was 
leased  for  999  years  by  the  Great  North  of  Scotland,  and 
in  1876  was  amalgamated  with  that  railway.  At  Kin- 
tore  the  Alford  Valley  line,  16  mUes,  branches  off,  and 
at  Inverurie  there  is  a  branch  to  Old  Meldrum,  5f  mUes. 
From  Inveramsay  the  Macduff  and  Banff  railway,  29| 
mUes,  leaves  the  main  line,  and  a  second  line  to  Banff 
sti'ikes  off  from  Grange  Junction,  subdividing  at  Tilly- 
naught  into  the  Banff  and  Portsoy  sections.  Beyond 
Keith  the  railway  reaches  to  Craigellachie  and  through 
Speyside  to  Boat  of  Garten,  48  mUes  in  all,  and  the 
Morayshire  railway,  also  first  projected  in  1846,  and 
amalgamated  with  the  Great  North  of  Scotland  in  1880, 
proceeds  from  Craigellachie  to  Elgin  and  Lossiemouth, 
a  distance  of  18 J  miles.  The  system  is  thus  seen  to  be 
very  much  divided,  while  the  Deeside,  leaving  Aberdeen 
in  a  south-westerly  direction,  is  virtually  a  separate  line. 
The  trunk  line  from  Aberdeen  to  Keith  gives  off  so  many 
branches  that  the  railway  has  termini  at  ten  difi'erent 
places,  namely,  on  the  left  at  Alford,  Keith,  Boat  of 
Garten,  and  Lossiemouth,  and  on  the  right  at  Peter- 
head, Fraserburgh,  Old  Meldrum,  Macdutf,  Banff,  and 
Portsoy.  From  the  last-mentioned  tovm  an  extension 
is  (1883)  being  constructed  to  Buckie,  and  in  1882 
powers  were  obtained  for  the  construction  of  a  railway 
from  Portsoy  to  Elgin.  The  railways  here  described 
were  constructed  as  single  lines,  but  in  1882  the  doub- 
ling of  the  main  line  from  Aberdeen  to  Inveramsay,  20 
miles,  was  completed,  and  powers  were  obtained  to  double 
some  portions  cf  the  Deeside  line.  At  July  1882  the 
total  capital  expenditure  of  the  company  was  £4,188,496, 
of  which  there  had  been  raised  in  shares  £3,174,785 
(ordinary  stock  £937,073,  the  remainder  preference 
stocks  at  various  rates),  in  debentures  and  debenture 
stock  £975,889,  and  in  premiums  received  on  issue  of 
stocks  £24,994,  with  a  balance  of  £12,826  spent  in 
excess  of  the  amoimt  raised.  As  with  many  other  rail- 
ways, the  capital  is  to  a  certain  extent  fictitious,  so  far 
as  it  can  be  held  to  represent  money  actually  spent  in 
the  formation  of  the  line.  In  1873,  when  an  arrear  of 
preference  dividends  pressed  hardly  on  the  prospects  of 
the  company,  power  was  obtained  to  convert  the  arrear 
into  a  preference  stock,  to  the  amount  of  £40,916,  and 
to  bear  4  per  cent,  interest,  and  to  be  redeemed  by  a 
half-yearly  payment  of  £500  from  the  revenues  of  the 
company.  The  result  of  this  was  at  once  to  bring  the 
ordinary  stock  into  receipt  of  a  small  dividend,  no 
dividend  having  been  paid  to  the  ordinary  shareholders 
for  nine  years  preceding.  In  July  1878  the  ordinary 
shareholders  ceased  to  receive  a  dividend,  and  the  pay- 


GREAT  NORTH  OF  SCOTLAND  RAILWAY 

ment  of  a  return  on  this  part  of  the  capital  has  not  since 
been  regularly  resumed. 

In  the  half  year  last  reported,  the  railway  carried 
96,126  first  class,  and  864,138  third  class  passengers, 
yielding,  with  648  season  ticket  holders,  a  revenue  of 
£59,046.  For  parcels  and  mails  the  company  received 
£9931,  for  goods  and  mineral  traflic  £72,875,  and  mis- 
cellaneous £3709,  making  a  total  revenue  for  the  half 
year  of  £145,562.  To  carry  this  traffic  the  company 
employed  62  locomotive  engines,  280  passenger  vehicles 
(including  horse  boxes,  break-vans,  etc.),  and  2069  wag- 
gons of  various  descriptions.  In  the  half  year  the 
engines  traversed,  with  passenger  trains,  322,350J  miles, 
and  with  goods  and  mineral  trains  260,113^,  being  a 
total  of  582,463|  miles.  The  receipts  per  train  mile 
amounted  to  58-45d.,  and  the  working  cost  to  32  ^gd. 
The  affairs  of  the  company  are  conducted  by  a  chairman, 
deputy-chairman,  and  11  directors. 

In  the  formation  of  the  company  and  its  connections 
the  main  object  was  to  supply  local  communications, 
and  to  furnish  an  outlet  to  the  S  for  the  produce  of  the 
agriculture,  the  fishing,  and  other  industries  of  the  dis- 
trict ;  and  the  minute  ramifications  of  the  system, 
although  costly  financially,  have  realised  in  a  larga 
degree  this  object.  The  railway  starts  in  Aberdeen 
from  the  joint-station,  constructed  for  the  use  of  the 
Caledonian  and  the  Great  North  of  Scotland  railways, 
and  proceeds  by  the  Denburn  Valley  line,  a  railway  1  j 
mile  in  length,  constructed  in  1864  to  afford  a  through 
communication  at  a  capital  cost  of  £231,600.  The 
first  stations  are  Kittybrewstor  li,  Woodside  2J,  Bux- 
burn  4i,  Dyce  Junction  6J,  Pitmedden  8J,  and  Kinaldie 
10  J  miles  from  Aberdeen.  At  Kin  tore,  13  J  miles  from 
Aberdeen,  the  junction  of  the  branch  to  Alford,  there 
was  removed,  in  constructing  the  station,  a  conical 
mound  caUed  the  Castle  Hill,  in  destroying  which 
several  sculptured  stones  were  discovered  that  are  figured 
in  the  Sculj^turcd  Stones  of  Scotland,  published  by  the 
Spalding  Club.  The  railway  partly  follows  the  course 
of  the  Aberdeen  and  Inverurie  Canal,  a  work  projected 
in  1793,  and  made  at  a  total  cost  of  £50,000,  and  which, 
in  a  distance  of  18  mUes,  was  crossed  by  56  bridges, 
ran  across  5  aqueducts  and  20  culverts,  and  ascended 
17  lochs.  Its  termination  was  Port  Elphinston,  named 
after  Elphinstone  of  Logie  Elphinston,  Bart.,  and  now 
a  station  (15J  miles)  on  the  railway.  After  leaving  Port 
Elphinston  the  railway  crosses  the  Don  on  a  handsome 
granite  and  iron  bridge,  rebuilt  in  1880.  Inverurie,  16^ 
miles,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Urie  and  Don,  forms  the 
centre  of  a  district  of  gi'eat  interest,  embracing  the  Bass 
of  Inverurie,  spoken  of  by  Thomas  the  Rhymer,  Caskie- 
ben  Castle,  Roman  camps,  etc.  Here  the  Old  Meldrum 
branch  runs  to  the  right.  Near  Inveramsay  station, 
20J  mUes,  the  junction  for  the  Macduff  branch,  is  the 
scene  of  the  Battle  of  Harlaw,  and  near  it  the  visitor 
will  find  Balquhain  Castle,  visited  by  Mary  Stuart  in 
1562 ;  and  Pitcaple,  the  next  station,  214-  miles,  is  the 
best  point  from  which  to  ascend  the  Hill  of  Beunachie, 
a  conspicuous  landmark  in  the  district  of  Buchan. 
At  Oyne  station,  24J  mUes,  the  traveller  is  in  the 
immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  Gadie,  famous  in  song. 
Insch  is  27J  miles,  and  further  on,  where  Wardhouse 
station,  31  mOes  from  Aberdeen,  is  reached,  the  summit 
level  of  the  line  is  attained.  Kennethmont  32J,  Gartly 
35},  and  Huntly  40|  miles,  are  in  the  Gordon  country 
and  valley  of  the  Bogie.  Huntly  stands  at  the  junction 
of  the  Bogie  with  the  Deveron,  on  a  rising  ground  ;  and 
conspicuous  in  the  front  street  are  the  Gordon  Schools, 
built  as  a  memorial  of  the  last  Duke  of  Gordon,  and  form- 
ing the  entrance  to  Huntly  Castle.  The  raUway  on 
leaving  Huntly  crosses  the  Deveron  on  a  fine  viaduct  of 
5  spans,  70  feet  in  height,  and  here  enters  Banffshire — 
Eothiemay,  45:^  mOes,  being  the  first  station  in  that 
county.  Traversing  the  valley  of  the  Islay,  and  passing 
Grange  Junction,  48|  miles,  where  the  Portsoy  and  Banff 
branch  runs  off,  the  main  line  terminates  in  the  town  of 
Keith,  53J  mUes  from  Aberdeen.  The  Deeside  railway 
next  claims  attention  as  a  line  apart  from  the  principal 
part  of  the  system.     It  gives  access,  as  its  name  implies, 

215 


GREAT  NORTH  OF  SCOTLAND  RAILWAY 

to  the  beautiful  district  of  Deeside,  and  forms  the  route 
to  Braemar  and  Balmoral,  the  favourite  resort  of  Queen 
Victoria.  Two  miles  from  Aberdeen  is  Ruthrieston,  a 
suburban  station ;  Cults  is  2  miles  further ;  and  Murtle, 
5J  mUes  from  Aberdeen,  gives  access  to  the  hydropathic 
establishment  at,  and  the  Roman  Catholic  College  of, 
Blairs.  The  succeeding  stations  are  Milltimber  6J, 
Culter  7|,  Drum  10,  Park  11,  Crathes  14,  and  Ban- 
chory 17  miles  from  Aberdeen.  From  this  point  to 
Aboyne  the  railway  leaves  the  Dee,  taking  a  wide  curve 
northward.  The  stations  on  this  loop  are  Glassel  214 
and  Torphins  24,  in  the  valley  of  the  Beltie,  Lum- 
phanan  27,  and  Dess  29J  mUes  from  Aberdeen.  Be- 
tween the  latter  place  and  Aboyne  (32J)  the  Une  skirts 
the  Loch  of  Aboyne,  and  passing  the  latter  place  it  tra- 
verses the  Muir  of  Diiinet ;  and  after  passing  that  station 
(37),  and  Cambus  O'May  (39J),  a  magnificent  portion  of 
the  district  is  reached,  opening  to  view  many  of  the 
finest  hills  of  this  beautiful  district.  Ballater,  the  ter- 
minus of  the  railway,  is  43J  miles  from  Aberdeen.  The 
Formartine  and  Buchan  railway,  leaving  the  main  line 
at  Dyce  Junction,  was  opened  to  Mintlaw  in  1S61,  to 
Peterhead  in  1862,  to  Fraserburgh  in  1865.  Parlvhill 
station,  IJ  mile,  and  New  Machar  station,  5^  miles 
from  Dyce,  having  been  passed,  the  railway  enters  a 
deep  cutting  through  the  HQl  of  Strypes,  which  is  a 
mile  in  length,  and  reaches  a  depth  of  50  feet.  We 
nest  reach  Udny  8J,  Logierieve  10,  Esslemont  Hi,  and 
Ellon  13J  miles  from  the  junction.  The  last-named 
town  is  reached  after  passing  a  deep  cutting  through 
Woolaw  Hill,  and  crossing  the  Ythan  on  a  bridge  of 
four  arches,  50  feet  high.  The  falling-in  of  this  bridge 
in  February  1861,  omng  to  some  subsidence  of  the 
foundations,  considerably  delayed  the  opening  of  the 
line.  From  Ellon  the  line  strikes  inland  by  Arnage 
16|,  Auchnagatt  20J,  and  Maud  Junction  (at  the  village 
of  Bank)  25  miles  from  Dyce.  From  this  junction  the 
line  to  Peterhead  passes  Jlintlaw  and  Old  Deer  station 
(the  centre  of  a  district  of  much  interest)  29,  and  Long- 
side  32,  New  Seat  34J,  and  Inverugie  36  miles  from 
Dyce,  reaching  Peterhead,  the  terminus,  distant  38 
miles  from  Dyce,  and  44J  from  Aberdeen.  From  Maud 
Junction  the  Fraserburgh  section  pursues  a  winding 
course  northerly,  passing  Brucklay  Ij,  Strichen  6|, 
Mormond  8J,  Lonmay  10|,  Rathen  13^,  and  Philorth 
14J  from  the  second  junction,  and  reaching  Fraser- 
burgh 16  miles  from  Maud,  41  from  Dyce  Junction, 
and  47i  from  Aberdeen.  The  Afford  branch,  leaving 
the  main  line  at  Kintore,  is  16  miles  long,  and  was 
opened  in  1859.  The  stations  are  Eemnay  ih,  Mony- 
musk  74,  Tilly fourie  10 J,  Whitehouse  13,  and  Alford 
16  miles  from  the  junction,  and  the  line  presents  no 
features  of  constructive  interest,  though  the  district 
opened  up  is  a  beautiful  one.  The  Old  Meldrum  branch, 
on  the  right  from  Inverurie,  was  opened  in  1856,  and 
has  two  stations,  Lethenty  2j  and  Old  Meldrum  5f 
mUes  from  the  junction.  At  Inveramsay  the  Macduff 
and  Turriff  railway  and  Banff  Extension  leave  the  main 
Une.  The  line  to  Turriff  was  sanctioned  in  1855  and 
opened  in  1857,  and  the  extension,  authorised  in  the 
latter  year,  was  opened  in  1860.  Crossing  the  Ury  a 
mOe  from  the  junction,  the  line  proceeds  to  Wartle  3|, 
Rothie-Norman  74,  and  Fyvie  lOf  miles,  the  station  at 
the  last-mentioned  place  being  a  mile  from  the  village 
of  that  name.  On  this  part  of  the  line  a  bridge  fell  in 
Dec.  1882,  carrying  a  mixed  passenger  and  goods  train, 
and  killing  five  persons.  We  are  here  in  another  dis- 
trict, replete  with  historic  and  literary  associations,  and 
abounding  in  fine  scenery.  At  Auchterless,  14  miles  from 
the  junction,  is  Towie-Barclay,  an  ancient  castle  reduced 
and  modernised  in  an  unhappy  way.  Turriff  18  miles, 
Plaidy  22J,  and  King  Edward  24| — the  latter  a  corrup- 
tion of  Kin-Edar — are  passed,  and  the  Banff  station,  I4 
mile  from  the  burgh,  and  on  the  other  side  of  the 
Eden,  is  reached.  A  quarter  of  a  mile  further  on  is 
Macduff  terminus,  29|  miles  from  tlie  junction  at 
Inveramsay  and  494  from  Aberdeen.  The  Banffshire 
railway,  proceeding  on  the  right  from  Grange  Junction, 
sanctioned  in  1857  and  opened  in  1S59,  was  amal- 
216 


GREAT  NORTH  OF  SCOTLAND  RAILWAY 

gamated  with  the  Great  North  of  Scotland  railway  in 
1867,  the  year  following  the  general  consolidation  of 
the  system.  This  line  is  19  miles  in  all,  being  I64  to 
Banff,  with  a  branch  of  24  miles  to  Portsoy.  The 
station  at  Knock,  3J  miles  from  Grange,  takes  its  name 
from  a  prominent  hill  1409  feet  high.  The  other 
stations  are  Glenbarry  4|,  Cornhill  8,  TiUynaught  lOJ, 
and  Lady's  Bridge  13 J  miles  from  the  junction,  and 
Banff  16|  miles  from  Grange  and  65  miles  by  rail  from 
Aberdeen.  From  TiUynaught  the  line  to  Portsoy 
branches  off,  reaching  that  seaport,  which  occupies  a 
picturesque  situation  at  the  bottom  of  a  fine  bay. 
It  is  2j  miles  from  TiUynaught,  13  from  Grange 
Junction,  and  61J  from  Aberdeen.  This  line  presents 
in  itself  nothing  worthy  of  notice,  hut  the  district  sur- 
rounding its  two  termini  is  not  less  attractive  in  fine 
ruins  and  historical  associations  than  others  already 
named. 

While  the  through  route  to  Inverness  is  at  Keith 
carried  on  by  the  Highland  railway,  there  extends  from 
the  latter  town,  starting  in  a  south-westerly  direction, 
railways  traversing  on  one  hand  the  district  of  Strath- 
spey, and  in  another  an  important  portion  of  Moray- 
shire. The  section  to  Dufftown,  sanctioned  in  1857 
and  opened  in  1862,  passes  Earlsmill  f  mUe,  Auchen- 
dachy  34,  and  Drummuir  6J  miles  from  Keith.  A  mile 
beyond  the  latter  station  the  railway  skirts  the  Loch  of 
Park,  a  narrow  water  about  a  mile  long,  with  abrupt 
banks,  on  a  narrow  ledge  of  which  the  line  is  carried. 
Here  the  summit  level  of  this  section  of  the  line  is 
reached.  The  Fiddich  is  crossed  by  a  handsome  bridge 
of  two  60-feet  spans  leading  to  Dufftown  station,  1  mile 
from  the  village,  lOf  miles  from  Keith,  and  64  by 
rail  from  Aberdeen.  Leaving  Dufftown,  the  Strathspey 
makes  a  rapid  descent  of  300  feet  within  4  miles.  A 
freestone  bridge  of  three  spans  crosses  the  gorge  of  the 
Fiddich,  and  the  descent  is  made  in  a  series  of  short 
sharp  curves,  many  of  them  supplied  with  guard-rails, 
and  a  series  of  cuttings  and  embankments  with  a  deep 
cutting  through  the  Corbie's  Crag  mark  a  very  costly 
and  laborious  bit  of  railway  engineering.  At  Craig- 
ellachie  the  Morayshire  railway  branches  off,  and  here 
is  seen  the  famous  iron  bridge  over  the  Spey  designed 
in  1815  by  Telford.  A  short  distance  from  the  station 
a  tunnel  through  Taminurie  is  found,  itself  high  above 
the  river,  but  topped  by  the  post  road  at  a  higher  eleva- 
tion, the  road  at  both  ends  of  the  tunnel  looking  down 
a  sheer  precipice  to  the  railway.  Aberlour  is  3J  mUes 
from  Craigellachie,  and  Carron  station  is  34  miles 
further,  the  line  here  traversing  the  narrowing  valley  of 
the  Spey,  the  scene  of  the  'Moray  Floods'  of  1829. 
Knockando  Burn  is  crossed  by  a  viaduct  of  three  large 
spans,  60  feet  in  height,  carrying  road  and  railway ; 
and  its  foundation  was  a  work  of  great  difficulty.  An 
extensive  cutting  is  traversed,  and  Black's  Boat  station 
is  then  reached,  4|  miles  from  Carron.  Before  reaching 
Ballindalloch  the  Spey  is  crossed  by  a  lattice  girder 
bridge  with  one  span  of  198  feet  and  two  lesser  spans. 
Advie  station,  3 J  miles  from  Ballindalloch  and  Crom- 
dale,  is  5J  miles  further,  bringing  us  to  the  '  crooked 
plain'  on  which  a  struggle  took  place  in  1690  between 
a  body  of  Scots  troops  favourable  to  James  VII.  and 
King  William's  forces,  that  has  been  rendered  famous 
in  ballads  of  the  time.  Between  Cromdale  and  Gran- 
town  is  situated  Castle  Grant,  belonging  to  the  Earl  of 
Seafield,  a  magnificent  pile,  from  the  tower  of  which  a 
splendid  range  of  picturesque  country  is  visible.  The 
station  of  Grantown  on  this  line  is  IJ  mile  S  by  E  of 
the  village,  which  lies  in  a  triangle  formed  by  the  two 
railways,  the  station  on  the  Highland  line  being  j  mile 
to  the  SSW.  Grantown  station  is  in  Inverness-shire, 
the  railway  here  traversing  a  projecting  angle  of  that 
county ;  and  so  too  is  Nethy  Bridge,  which  is  96J 
miles  from  Aberdeen,  and  which  was  originally  the 
terminus  of  the  railway.  It  was  afterwards  carried 
4|  miles  further  to  Boat  of  Garten,  running  for  some 
part  of  the  distance  parallel  witli  the  Highland  rail- 
way, with  which  it  here  forms  a  junction.  Here  is  at- 
tained the  maximum  distance  from  Aberdeen  on  the 


GREENAN 

system,  Boat  of  Garten  being  distant  from  the  head- 
quarters of  the  line  101  miles.  Turning  back  to  Craigel- 
lachie  station,  the  Morayshire  railway  there  branches 
otf,  crossing  the  Spey  by  a  viaduct  of  four  spans — three 
of  57  and  one  of  200  feet— on  stone  piers  supported  on 
concrete  foundations,  carried  far  down  below  the  river's 
bed,  with  lattice  girders  of  17J  feet  depth  over  the  main 
span.  Dandaleith  station  is  |  mile  from  the  viaduct, 
and  at  Rothes  (3  miles)  the  line  leaves  the  Spey  and 
follows  the  Glen  of  Rothes,  by  some  thought  to  have 
beeu  originally  the  com'se  of  the  larger  river.  Near 
Rothes  tliere  is  a  branch  of  the  railway  to  Orton,  now 
disused,  and  affording  a  junction  with  the  Highland 
railway  at  Boat  of  Bridge.  The  romantic  valley  of  the 
Rothes  is  traversed  for  a  considerable  distance  before 
another  station  is  reached,  this  being  Longmorn,  9f 
mQes  from  Craigellaclue,  and  3  miles  further  the  cathe- 
dral town  of  Elgin  is  reached.  The  town,  however,  has 
its  principal  railway  connection  E  and  "W  by  means  of 
the  Highland  railway.  Proceeding  northwards,  the 
Morayshire  line  passes  the  Castle  of  Spynie,  a  picturesque 
ruin,  on  the  borders  of  the  loch  of  Spynie,  formerly  an 
arm  of  the  sea,  and  now  almost  entirely  reclaimed  and 
converted  into  fertile  farms.  At  an  expenditure  of  about 
£20,000,  land  to  the  extent  of  762  acres  has  been  brought 
fi'om  the  sea  to  cultivation.  The  railway  terminates  at 
Lossiemouth,  on  the  coast,  5  J  miles  from  Elgin,  ISJ  from 
the  junction  at  Craigellachie,  and  86J  from  Aberdeen. 

The  Great  North  of  Scotland  railway  is  seen  from  the 
above  description  to  consist  of  an  intricate  series  of 
forks  and  branches,  almost  wholly  local  in  character, 
but  serving  very  fully  the  district  over  which  the  line 
extends.  Excepting  the  struggle  in  1882  with  the 
Highland  company  for  the  right  of  supplying  new  rail- 
ways in  the  coast  district  between  Portsoy  and  Lossie- 
mouth, and  the  competition  naturally  existing  between 
the  two  companies  for  the  traffic  from  the  Elgin  and 
Keith  districts  to  the  S  and  through  portions  of  Moray- 
shire, the  Great  Nortli  of  Scotland  possesses  a  monopoly 
of  the  railway  traffic  over  an  extensive  and  important 
territory.  Many  importaut  fishing  towns  are  touched 
on  the  north-eastern  point  of  Central  Scotland,  and  the 
favourite  tourist  district  of  Deeside  is  only  accessible 
over  this  system  of  railway.  Over  the  whole  extent  of 
the  railway  there  are  to  be  met  many  picturesque  spots, 
with  castles,  churches,  and  fortalices  innumerable,  each 
famous  in  song  or  legend  or  historical  reminiscence,  and 
presenting  an  infinite  attraction  to  the  artist  and  the 
antiquary.  The  trains  on  the  railway  are  leisurely, 
and  the  traveller  must  not  grumble  at  delays  that  in 
a  busier  district,  yielding  better  traffic  results,  would 
not  be  tolerable.  See  The  Great  North  of  Seotlaibd  Rail- 
way, by  W.  Ferguson  of  Kinmundy  (1S81). 

Greenan,  a  ruined  fortalice  on  the  coast  of  Maybole 
parish,  Ayrshire,  3  miles  SSW  of  Ayr.  Standing  on 
low  ground,  overlooked  by  Brown  Carrich  Hill,  it 
figures  couspicuously  in  a  considerable  extent  of  coast 
landscape,  and  presents  a  weird  appearance. — Ord.  Siir., 
sh.  14,  1863. 

Greenan,  a  loch  at  the  mutual  border  of  Rothesay  and 
North  Bute  parishes.  Isle  of  Bute,  IJ  mUe  WSW  of 
Rothesay  town.  It  measures  4|  furlongs  by  1,  and  con- 
tains shy  trout,  running  3  to  the  lb.,  and  roach. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  29,  1873. 

Greenbank,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Mearns 
parish,  Renfrewshire,  If  mile  W  of  Busby.  Its  owner, 
James  Duulop  Hamilton,  Esq.  (b.  1812),  holds  70  acres 
in  the  shire,  valued  at  £143  per  annum.— Ord  Sur.,  sh. 
22,  1865. 

Greenbrae,  a  village  in  Dumfries  parish,  Dumfries- 
shire, contiguous  to  Stoop  village,  1  mile  ENE  of  Dum- 
fries town.  Pop.,  together  with  Stoop,  (1871)  312, 
(1881)  568. 

Greenbum.     See  Ceofthead  and  Fatjldhouse. 

Greenburn,  a  place  in  Newhills  parish,  SW  Aberdeen- 
shh-e,  IJ  mile  NW  of  Auchmill.  Fairs  are  held  here 
on  the  second  Tuesday  of  May  and  June,  the  last 
Thursday  of  July,  and  the  last  "Wednesday  of  Septem- 
ber, all  four  old  style. 
51 


GREENLAW 

Greencraig.     See  Ckeich,  Fife. 

Greeneud,  a  village  in  Old  Monkland  parish,  Lanark- 
shire, li  mile  ESE  of  Coatbridge. 

Greenend,  a  liamlet  in  Liberton  parish,  Edinburgh- 
shire, J  mile  E  by  N  of  Liberton  village.  It  has  a  post 
office  under  Edinburgh. 

Greenfield.     See  Hamilton. 

Greenford,  a  village  in  Monikie  parish,  SE  Forfar- 
shire, 8  miles  ENE  of  Dundee. 

Greengairs,  a  collier  village  in  New  Monkland  parish, 
Lanarkshire,  4  miles  NNE  of  Airdrie.  At  it  are  an 
Established  chapel  of  ease  (1876  ;  400  sittings),  '  Norse 
Gothic'  in  style,  a  Free  church  (1874),  and  a  public 
school ;  whilst  in  the  neighbourhood  are  Glentore  oil- 
works.  Pop.  (1871)  450,  (1881)  798.— Ord  Sur.,  sh. 
31,  1867. 

Greenhall,  a  mansion  in  Blantyre  parish,  Lanarkshire, 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Rotten  Calder,  5  furlongs  W 
by  S  of  High  Blantyre  station.  Its  owner,  John 
Wardrop  Moore,  Esq.,  holds  332  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £786  per  annum.  Ancient  stone  coffins  have 
been  found  on  the  estate. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  23,  1-865. 

Greenhead.     See  Glasgow. 

Greenhead,  a  village  in  Caerlaverock  parish,  Dumfries- 
shire, near  the  old  castle,  8^  miles  SSE  of  Dumfries. 

Greenhead,  a  village  in  Auchterderran  parish,  Fife, 
4J  miles  NW  by  N  of  Kirkcaldy. 

GreenhiU,  a  village  in  Lochmaben  parish,  Dumfries- 
shire, 3J  miles  SW  by  W  of  Lockerbie. 

GreenhiU,  a  villa  of  the  Duke  of  Roxburghe  in  Hou- 
nam  parish,  E  Roxburghshire,  IJ  mile  SSE  of  Hounam 
church.  It  stands  between  two  confluent  burns,  Cape- 
hope  and  Heatherhope,  at  an  elevation  of  580  feet  above 
sea-level,  with  Green  Hill  (1244)  behind  it ;  and  is  a 
neat  pleasant-looking  house,  amid  prettily-wooded 
grounds.— Ore?.  Sicr.,  sh.  18,  1863. 

GreenhiU,  a  station  on  the  western  verge  of  Falkirk 
parish,  Stirlingshire,  at  the  western  junction  of  the 
Edinburgh  and  Glasgow  section  of  the  North  British 
railway  with  the  Scottish  Central  section  of  the  Cale- 
donian, 15J  miles  NE  by  E  of  Glasgow. 

Greenholm.     See  Newmilxs. 

Greenholm,  an  island  of  Tingwall  parish,  Shetland, 
1  mile  E  of  the  nearest  part  of  Mainland,  and  6  miles 
NNE  of  Lerwick.  It  measures  3  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence. 

Greenholm,  Little  and  Meikle,  two  islets  of  Stronsay 
and  Eday  parish,  Orkney,  IJ  mile  SW  of  the  southern 
extremity  of  Eday. 

Green  Island.     See  Glass-Ellan. 

Greenknowe,  a  ruined  tower  in  Gordon  parish,  SW 
Berwickshire,  J  mile  NW  of  Gordon  station.  It  was 
the  residence  of  the  famous  Covenanter,  Walter  Pringle 
of  Greenknowe,  whose  Memoirs  were  published  at  Edin- 
burgh in  1723.— Ord  Sur.,  sh.  25,  1865. 

Greenknowe,  a  quoad  sacra  parish  in  Annan  parish, 
Dumlriesshire,  comprising  part  of  the  burgh.  Consti- 
tuted in  1873,  it  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Annan  and 
synod  of  Dumfries  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is  £120.  Its 
church  was  buUt  as  a  chapel  of  ease  in  1842  at  a  cost 
of  £1500  ;  and  there  is  also  a  public  school. — Oi-d.  Sur., 
sh.  6,  1863. 

Greenknowes,  a  former  crannoge  or  artificial,  oval 
mound  in  the  midst  of  a  bog  in  Culter  parish,  Lanark- 
shire, to  the  NW  of  Cow  Castle.  A  promiscuous  heap 
of  stones,  strengthened  by  a  great  number  of  vertical 
oaken  piles,  it  communicated  by  a  stone  causeway  with 
the  firm  ground  at  the  side  of  the  morass.  — Orel.  Sur. , 
sh.  24,  1864. 

Greenland,  a  village  in  Walls  parish,  Shetland,  25 
miles  WNW  of  Lerwick. 

Greenland,  a  hamlet  in  Dunnet  parish,  Caithness,  3 
miles  E  by  S  of  Castletown.  It  has  a  post  office  under 
Wick,  and  a  public  school. 

Greenlaw,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Crossmichael 
parish,  Kirkcudbrightshire,  IJ  mile  NNW  of  Castle- 
Douglas. 

Greenlaw.     See  Glencorse. 

Greenlaw,  a  small  town  and  a  parish  in  Berwickshire. 

217 


GREENLAW 

The  town,  standing,  500  feet  above  sea-level,  on  the 
left  bank  of  Blackadder  Water,  has  a  station  on  the 
Berwickshire  loop-line  of  the  North  British,  14J  miles 
NE  of  St  Boswells,  and  7i  SW  of  Duns.  A  burgh  of 
barony,  it  was  the  county  town  from  1696  till  1S53,  but 
now  divides  that  dignity  vnth  Duns.  The  original  town 
stood  1 J  mile  to  the  SSE  on  the  '  green,'  round,  isolated 
'  law, '  or  hill,  that  gave  it  name  ;  the  present  town  was 
founded  towards  the  close  of  the  17th  century,  and,  for  a 
short  time,  promised  to  become  a  central  seat  of  trade 
for  the  county,  but  never,  in  point  of  either  size  or  com- 
merce, has  risen  to  be  more  than  a  village.  Its  market 
cross,  supposed  to  have  been  erected  in  1696  by  the  cele- 
brated Sir  Patrick  Hume  of  Polwarth  (afterwards  Earl 
of  Marchmont),  was  taken  down  in  1829  to  make  room 
for  the  County  Hall,  but  in  1881  was  discovered  in  the 
basement  part  of  the  church  tower,  and  was  again  set  up 
on  the  W  side  of  the  town.  Shaft  and  Corinthian  capital 
were  entire  ;  but  the  surmounting  lion-rampant,  the 
Marchmont  crest,  was  gone.  Greenlaw  comprises  a 
spacious  square,  with  three  or  four  short  radiating  streets, 
and  has  a  post  office,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank, 
and  telegraph  departments,  a  branch  of  the  Royal  Bank, 
two  insurance  agencies,  two  inns,  a  library,  and  two 
yearly  fairs — for  horses  on  22  May,  for  hiring  on  the 
last  Thursday  of  October.  On  the  S  side  of  the  square 
stand  the  old  county  court  and  jail — the  latter,  a  narrow 
gloomy  structure.  The  new  jail,  to  the  "W,  was  built  in 
1824,  and,  containing  22  cells,  has  served  since  August 
1880  for  prisoners  whose  period  does  not  exceed  a  fort- 
night. The  new  com-t-house,  erected  in  1834,  is  a 
handsome  edifice  in  the  Grecian  style,  with  a  hall  60 
feet  long,  40  wide,  and  28  high ;  and  is  used  for  jury 
courts  and  county  meetings.  The  parish  church,  a 
venerable  building,  containing  476  sittings,  adjoins  the 
old  jail,  of  which  the  under  part  of  its  tower  formerly 
was  part,  known  as  the  Thieves'  Hole.  A  Free  and 
a  U.P.  church  have  450  sittings  apiece.  Sheriff  small- 
debt  courts  are  held  on  the  last  Thursdays  of  January, 
February,  May,  June,  and  November,  on  the  Thursday 
before  the  last  Friday  of  July,  and  on  the  last  Friday  of 
September.  Pop.  (1831)  895,  (1861)  800,  (1871)  823, 
(1881)  744. 

The  parish  is  bounded  N  by  Longformacus,  NE  by 
Polwarth,  E  by  Fogo,  SE  by  Eccles,  SW  by  Hume,  and 
W  by  Gordon  and  Westruther.  Its  utmost  length, 
from  NNW  to  SSE,  is  8  miles  ;  its  breadth  varies  be- 
tween ll  and  3i  miles;  and  its  area  is  12,200  acres, 
of  which  51  are  water.  Blackadder  Water,  formed 
by  two  head-streams  in  the  NW  of  the  parish,  winds 
3  J  miles  south-south-eastward  along  the  Westruther  and 
Gordon  border,  and  3|  miles  south-eastward  through 
the  interior  to  the  town,  thence  bending  IJ  mile  east- 
north-eastward  to  the  boundary  with  Fogo,  which  it 
traces  for  7  furlongs  north-north-eastward.  Faugrist 
Burn,  coming  in  from  Longformacus,  drains  most  of  the 
northern  district  to  the  Blackadder ;  and  Lambden  Burn, 
a  little  tributary  of  Leet  Water,  flows  2|  miles  north- 
eastward along  the  boundary  with  Eccles.  The  surface 
declines  along  Lambden  Bm-n  to  260,  along  the  Black- 
adder  to  290,  feet  above  sea-level.  Between  these 
streams  it  rises  to  563  feet  near  Elwarthlaw,  633  at  Old 
Greenlaw,  and  680  at  Foulshotlaw  ;  beyond  the  Black- 
adder,  to  677  feet  near  Whiteside,  786  near  Hallyburton, 
780  near  Hule  Moss,  813  at  Hurd  Law,  and  1191  at 
DiEEiNGTON  Little  Law,  a  summit  of  the  Lammer- 
muirs  on  the  northern  border.  A  moorish  tract  occu- 
pies most  of  the  northern  district,  and  an  irregular 
gravelly  ridge,  called  the  Eaimes,  50  feet  broad  at  the 
base,  and  from  30  to  40  feet  high,  extends  fully  2  miles 
in  semicircular  form  across  the  moor,  whilst  on  the  S 
side  of  the  Eaimes  lies  Dogden  Moss,  500  acres  in  ex- 
tent, and  in  some  parts  10  feet  deep.  The  southern  dis- 
trict, comprising  rather  more  than  one-half  of  the  entire 
area,  presents,  for  the  most  part,  a  level  appearance, 
but  is  diversified  with  several  isolated,'  rounded  hillocks 
of  the  kind  called  Laws.  Sandstone  has  been  quarried 
at  Greenside  ;  and  peats,  nearly  as  good  for  fuel  as  coal, 
are  cut  and  dried  upon  Dogden  Moss.  The  soil  of  the 
218 


GREENOCK 

southern  district  is  deep  and  fertUe  ;  that  of  the  northern 
is  mostly  moorish  and  barren.  In  the  NW  are  several 
cairns  or  barrows  ;  remains  of  an  ancient  camp,  called 
Blaokcastle,  are  at  the  confluence  of  Blackadder 
AVater  and  Faugrist  Burn  ;  and  a  number  of  gold  and 
silver  corns  of  Edward  III.  were  found  in  1832  in  the 
line  of  a  trench  running  southward  from  this  camp. 
Two  religious  houses,  subordinate  to  Kelso  Abbey,  were 
formerly  in  the  parish,  but  have  entirely  disappeared, 
as  also  has  a  castle  near  Old  Greenlaw,  which,  in  the 
12th,  13th,  and  14th  centuries,  was  a  seat  of  the  Earls 
of  Dunbar,  ancestors  of  the  noble  family  of  Home. 
Mansions  are  Lambden,  Old  Greenlaw,  and  Rowchester  ; 
and  one  proprietor  holds  an  annual  value  of  less,  as 
three  of  more,  than  £500,  much  the  largest  being  Sir 
Hugh  Hume-Campbell,  Bart,  of  Marchmont  House, 
who  is  also  superior  of  the  bm'gh.  Greenlaw  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Duns  and  synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale  ; 
the  living  is  worth  £346.  Its  public  scliool,  with 
accommodation  for  270  children,  had  (1881)  an  average 
attendance  of  179,  and  a  grant  of  £149,  Is.  Valuation 
(1865)  £10,253,  (1882)  £12,022,  10s.  5d.  Pop.  (1801) 
1270,  (1831)  1442,  (1861)  1370,  (1871)  1381,  (1881)  1245. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  25,  1865. 

Greenloaning.    See  Ardoch. 

Greemnill,  a  village  in  Caeklaverook  parish,  Dum- 
friesshire, containing  the  parish  church. 

Greenock,  a  parish  of  NW  Renfrewshire,  bounded  N 
by  the  Firth  of  Clyde,  E  by  Port  Glasgow,  S  by  Kil- 
malcolm, and  W  by  Innerkip.  Extending  4J  miles 
along  tlie  Firth,  and  from  If  to  5|  miles  inland,  it  has 
an  area  of  6247^  acres,  of  which  166  are  foreshore  and 
60J  water.  The  last  is  made  up  by  two  or  three  rivulets 
running  direct  to  the  Firth,  by  Whinhill  Reservoir,  and 
by  the  upper  part  of  Gryfe  Reservoir  (2  miles  x  J  mile). 
Loch  Thorn  (1  j  x  J  mile),  also  belonging  to  the  Greenock 
Waterworks,  falls  just  within  Innerkip  parish.  The 
shore  is  fringed  by  a  strip  of  level  ground,  5  to  7  fur- 
longs in  breadth,  that  marks  the  old  sea-margin  of  the 
Firth.  The  soil  of  this  level  portion  is  light,  mixed 
with  sand  and  gravel ;  but  has  been  rendered  very  fer- 
tile, owing  to  the  great  encouragement  given  to  culti- 
vation, from  the  constant  demand  for  country  produce 
by  the  numerous  population.  Beyond,  the  surface  is 
hilly,  attaining  400  feet  at  Caddie  Hill,  813  at  Whitelees 
Moor,  727  near  Gryfe  Reservoir,  and  1175  in  the  extreme 
S.  The  lower  slopes  are  diversified  with  patches  of 
loam,  clay,  and  till.  Farther  up,  and  towards  the  sum- 
mits of  the  hills,  the  soil  for  the  most  part  is  thin  and 
in  places  mossy,  the  bare  rocks  appearing  here  and 
there.  The  land  in  this  quarter  is  little  adapted  for 
anything  but  pasturage  for  black  cattle  and  sheep.  On 
the  other  side  of  the  heights,  except  a  few  cultivated 
spots  on  the  southern  border  of  the  parish,  chiefly  on 
the  banks  of  the  infant  Gryfe,  heath  and  coarse  grass 
prevail.  The  views  from  the  Greenock  hills  are  varied, 
extensive,  and  grand,  combining  water,  shipping,  the 
scenery  on  either  shore  of  the  Clyde,  and  the  lofty 
Highland  mountains.  The  declivities  of  the  hills  over- 
looking the  town  and  the  river  are  adorned  with  villas, 
and  diversified  with  thriving  plantations,  so  that  they 
present  a  very  pleasing  appearance.  The  part  of  the 
hills  directly  behind  the  town,  too,  is  cloven  to  a  low 
level  by  a  fine  narrow  valley,  through  which  run  the  road 
and  the  railway  to  Wemyss  Bay.  The  contour  of  the  de- 
clivities both  towards  this  valley  and  towards  the  Clyde 
is  rolling  and  diversified  ;  and  the  general  summit-line, 
in  consequence  of  being  at  such  short  distance  from  the 
shore,  looks,  from  most  points  of  view,  to  be  much 
higher  than  it  really  is.  Hence  the  landscape  of  the 
parish,  particularly  around  the  town,  is  decidedly  pic- 
turesque. The  rocks  are  chiefly  the  Old  Red  sandstone, 
with  its  conglomerate,  ne^r  the  shore,  and  various  kinds 
of  trap,  principally  basalt  and  greenstone,  throughout 
the  hills.  The  sandstone  and  the  trap  are  quarried  for 
building  purposes. 

The  Clyde  opposite  the  parish  of  Greenock  varies  in 
width  from  IJ  to  4  miles.  In  the  middle  of  the  Firth 
there  is  a  sandbank  called  the  Pillar  Bank,  which,  com- 


GREENOCK 

mencing  almost  immediately  above  Dumbarton  Castle, 
or  74  miles  above  Greenock,  and  running  longitudinally, 
terminates  at  a  point  nearly  opposite  the  western  ex- 
tremity of  the  town,  well  known  to  merchants  and 
others  by  the  name  of  the  'Tail  of  the  Bank.'  During 
spring  tides,  part  of  the  bank  opposite  to  the  har- 
bour is  visible  at  low  water ;  and  the  depth  of  the 
channel  on  each  side  of  this  bank  is  such  as  to  admit 
vessels  of  the  largest  class.  Between  Port  Glasgow  and 
Garvel  Point,  a  remarkable  promontory  at  the  E  end  of 
the  burgh,  the  high  part  of  the  bank  is  separated  from 
the  upper  portion  (part  of  which  opposite  to  Port  Glas- 
gow is  also  dry  at  low  water)  by  a  narrow  channel  signi- 
ficantly called  the  '  Through -let,'  through  which  the 
tide,  passing  from  the  lower  part  of  the  Firth  in  a 
north-easterly  direction,  and  obstructed  in  its  progress 
by  Ardmore,  a  promontory  on  the  Dumbartonshire  side, 
rushes  with  such  impetuosity  as  to  produce  high  water 
at  Port  Glasgow  a  few  minutes  earlier  than  at  Greenock. 
The  sub-marine  island  which  is  thus  formed,  and  which 
is  commonly  called  the  Greenock  Bank,  to  distinguish 
it  from  the  high  part  of  the  bank  opposite  to  Port 
Glasgow,  was  granted  by  government  to  the  corporation 
of  the  town  of  Greenock,  for  an  annual  payment  of  'one 
penny  Scots  money,  if  asked  only.'  The  charter  by  the 
Barons  of  Exchequer  is  dated  5  July  1816,  and  contains 
the  following  words  expressive  of  the  object  which  the 
corporation  had  in  view  in  applying  for  the  gi'ant : — 
'  Pro  proposito  ajdificandi  murum,  vel  acquirendi  ad 
ripam  antedictam  ex  australi  latere  ejusdem  quantum 
ad  septentrionem  eadem  possit  acquu'i,' — 'for  the  pur- 
pose of  building  a  wall  or  of  gaining  to  the  foresaid 
bank  from  its  S  side  as  much  as  can  be  gained  to  the 
N. '  The  southern  channel  is  the  only  one  for  vessels 
passing  to  and  from  the  different  ports  on  the  river,  the 
greatest  depth  of  water  in  the  '  Through-let '  being 
quite  insufficient  in  its  present  state  to  admit  of  vessels 
of  any  considerable  burden  passing  that  way.  The 
^^•idth  of  the  channel,  opposite  to  the  harbour  of 
Greenock,  does  not  much  exceed  300  yards.  Ascend- 
ing, it  rapidly  diminishes  in  width, — a  circumstance 
which,  but  for  the  application  of  steam  to  the  towing  of 
ships,  must  have  presented  for  ever  an  insupierable 
obstacle  to  the  progress  of  the  trade  of  Glasgow. 

Prior  to  the  Reformation  Greenock  was  comprehended 
in  the  parish  of  Innerkip,  and  being  at  a  great  distance 
from  the  parish  church,  the  inhabitants  had  the  benefit 
of  three  chapels  within  their  ot\ii  bounds.  One  of  them, 
and  probably  the  principal,  was  dedicated  to  St  Laur- 
ence, from  whom  the  adjacent  expanse  derived  its  name 
of  the  Bay  of  St  Laurence.  It  stood  on  the  site  of  the 
house  at  the  W  corner  of  Virginia  Street  in  Greenock, 
belonging  to  the  heirs  of  Mr  Ptoger  Stewart.  In  digging 
the  foundations  of  that  house,  a  number  of  human  bones 
were  found,  which  proves  that  a  burying-ground  must 
have  been  attached  to  the  chapel.  On  the  lands  still 
called  Chapelton  there  stood  another  chapel,  to  which 
also  there  must  have  been  a  cemetery  attached ;  for 
when  these  grounds  were  formed  into  a  kitchen-garden, 
many  gravestones  were  found  under  the  surface.  A 
little  below  Kilblain,  there  was  placed  a  third  religious 
house,  the  stones  of  which  the  tenant  of  the  ground  was 
permitted  to  remove  for  the  purpose  of  enclosing  his 
garden.  From  the  name  it  is  apparent  that  this  was  a 
cell  or  chapel  dedicated  to  St  Blane.  After  the  Refor- 
mation, when  the  chapels  were  dissolved,  the  inhabitants 
of  Greenock  had  to  walk  to  the  parish  church  of  Inner- 
kip, which  was  6  miles  distant,  to  join  in  the  celebration 
of  public  worship.  To  remedy  this  inconvenience,  John 
Shaw  obtained  a  grant  from  the  King  in  15S9,  authoris- 
ing him  to  build  a  church  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
people  on  his  lands  of  Greenock,  Finnart,  and  Spangock, 
wdro,  it  was  represented,  were  '  all  fishers,  and  of  a 
reasonable  number. '  Power  was  also  given  to  build  a 
manse  and  form  a  churchyard.  This  grant  was  ratified 
by  parliament  in  1592.  The  arrangement  resembled 
the  erection  of  a  chapel  of  ease  in  our  own  times.  Shaw 
having,  in  1592,  built  a  church  and  a  manse,  and 
assigned  a  churchyard,  an  Act  of  Parliament  was  passed 


GREENOCK 

in  1594,  whereby  his  lands  above  mentioned,  with  their 
tithes  and  ecclesiastical  duties,  were  disjoined  from  the 
parsonage  and  vicarage  of  Innerkip,  and  erected  into  a 
distinct  parsonage  and  vicarage,  which  were  assigned  to 
the  newly  erected  parish  church  of  Greenock  ;  and  this 
was  ordained  to  take  effect  for  the  year  1593,  and  in  all 
time  tliereafter. 

The  parish  of  Greenock  continued,  as  thus  established, 
till  1636,  when  there  was  obtained  from  the  lords  com- 
missioners for  the  plantation  of  churches  a  decree, 
whereby  the  baronies  of  Easter  and  Wester  Greenock, 
and  various  other  lands  which  had  belonged  to  the 
parish  of  Innerkip,  with  a  small  portion  of  the  parish 
of  Houstoun,  were  erected  into  a  parish  to  be  called 
Greenock,  and  the  church  formerly  erected  at  Greenock 
was  ordained  to  be  the  parochial  church,  of  which  Shaw 
was  the  patron.  The  limits  which  were  then  assigned 
to  the  parish  of  Greenock  have  continued  to  the  present 
time  ;  though,  for  some  purposes,  it  has  been  subdivided 
since  1754  and  1809  into  the  three  parishes  of  Old  or 
West  Greenock,  New  or  Middle  Greenock,  and  East 
Greenock.  Ecclesiastically,  again,  it  is  distributed 
among  the  following  parishes  : — Cartsburn,  East,  Lady- 
burn,  Middle,  North,  South,  Wellpark,  West,  and  a  small 
portion  of  Gourock.  Pop.  of  entire  parish  (1801)  17,458, 
(1821)  22,088,  (1841)  36,936,  (1861)  43,894,  (1871) 
59,794,  (1881)  69,238,  of  whom  41,163  were  in  West 
parish,  6370  in  Middle  parish,  and  21,705  in  East 
parish,  whilst  10,639  were  in  Cartsburn  quoad  sacra 
parish,  11,066  in  East,  6370  in  Middle,  4300  in  North, 
10,319  in  South,  998  in  Wellpark,  25,399  in  West,  and 
147  in  Gourock.— 0)-d  Sur.,  sh.  30,  1866. 

The  presbytery  of  Greenock,  in  the  synod  of  Glasgow 
and  Ayr,  comprises  the  parishes  of  Cumbrae,  Erskine, 
Fairlie,  Greenock  (with  its  ecclesiastical  subdivisions), 
Gourock,  Innerkip,  Kilmalcolm,  Langbank,  Largs, 
Newark,  Port  Glasgow,  and  Skelmorlie.  Pop.  (1871) 
83,189,  (1881)  96,876,  of  whom  8568  were  communicants 
of  the  Church  of  Scotland  in  1878. — The  Free  Church 
presbytery  of  Greenock  embraces  21  churches,  11  being 
in  Greenock,  3  in  Port  Glasgow,  and  7  in  Cumbrae, 
Er.skine,  Fairlie,  Gourock,  Innerkip,  Kilmalcolm,  and 
Largs,  which  21  churches  together  had  6270  members 
in  1882. — TheU.P.  presbytery  also  embraces  21  charges, 
viz, ,  6  in  Greenock,  2  in  Port  Glasgow,  2  in  Rothesay, 
and  11  at  Campbeltown,  Dunoon,  Gourock,  Innellan, 
Inveraray,  Kilcreggan,  Kirn,  Largs,  Millport,  South- 
end, and  Wemyss  Bay,  with  5759  members  in  1881. 

Greenock,  a  parliamentary  burgh,  seaport,  and  seat 
of  manufacture,  the  fifth  town  of  Scotland  in  point  of 
population.  It  is  situated  in  the  parish  of  the  same 
name  in  Renfrewshire,  in  N  latitude  55°  57'  2",  and  W 
longitude  4°  45'  30",  by  water  being  21 J  miles  WNW  of 
Glasgow,  7i  W  of  Dumbarton,  4  S  of  Helensburgh,  and 
7J  E  of  Dunoon,  whilst  by  rail  it  is  22i  miles  WNW 
of  Glasgow,  15i  WNW  of  Paisley,  and  3  W  by  N 
of  Port  Glasgow.  According  to  the  popular  view, 
Greenock  received  its  name  from  a  '  green  oak '  which 
once  stood  on  the  shore ;  but  this  derivation  has  no 
other  foundation  than  the  obvious  pun,  the  oak  being 
wholly  apocryphal.  Even  when  this  etymology  is  dis- 
posed of,  there  is  considerable  doubt  as  to  the  origin  of 
the  name.  One  suggestion  is  the  ancient  British 
gracii-ag,  '  a  gi-aveUy  or  sandy  place ; '  another,  the 
Gaelic  grian-aig,  'a  sunny  bay;'  and  a  third,  the 
Gaelic  grian-chnoc,  'the  knoll  of  the  sun.'  The  two 
first  derivations  receive  some  countenance  from  cir- 
cumstances, the  soil  of  Greenock  being  gravelly,  while 
the  Highland  portion  of  the  present  inhabitants 
pronounce  the  name  like  G-rian-aig.  The  Gaelic 
etj'mology  also  receives  acceptance  in  some  quarters, 
because  of  supposed  confirmation  of  it  found  in  other 
places,  such  as  Greenan  in  Ayrshire,  and  a  farm  of  the 
same  name  in  Perthshire,  which  are  conjectured  to 
have  been  seats  of  sun  worship.  Others,  however, 
discern  in  it  a  case  of  lucus  a  non  luccndo,  inasmuch  as 
'  in  Greenock  it  always  rains  except  when  it  is  snowing. ' 
The  bay  on  which  Greenock  lies  is  comparatively  narrow 
seaward,   but  long  and  expanded  along  the  snore,  and 

219 


GREENOCK 

thus  the  view  up  and  down  the  Firth  is  open.  For  about 
i  mile  inland  the  ground  is  flat  and  not  much  above 
high-water  level,  and  this  portion  is  occupied  by  docks, 
quays,  business  streets,  and  lines  of  villas  for  about  2 
miles.  Further  inland,  the  ground  begins  to  rise,  in  some 
parts  more  steeply  than  others,  but  in  every  case  adding 
picturesqueness  to  the  town  as  seen  from  the  river. 
Terraces  of  villa  residences  are  planted  here  and  there, 
and  generally  the  slopes  are  pleasantly  variegated  with 
garden-plots  and  other  concomitants  of  the  suburban 
districts  of  a  large  town.  Charming  as  is  the  site  of 
Greenock,  the  view  commanded  by  the  town  is  much 
more  so.  Associated  in  the  public  mind  with  all  the 
customary  sraokiness  and  dirt  of  manufacturing  centres, 
Greenock  is  nevertheless  striking  for  the  airiness  and 
freshness  of  its  surroundings.  Looking  across  St 
Laurence's  Bay  (so  called  from  an  ancient  religioushouse) 
the  eye  rests  on  the  fringe  of  the  magnificent  scenery 
of  the  Western  Highlands.  '  But  a  few  miles  off,  across 
the  Firth  of  Clyde, '  remark  the  Messrs  Chambers,  '  the 
untameable  Highland  territory  stretclies  away  into 
Alpine  solitudes  of  the  wildest  character ;  so  that  it  is 
possible  to  sit  in  a  Greenock  drawing-room  amidst  a 
scene  of  refinement  not  surpassed,  and  of  industry  unex- 
ampled in  Scotland,  with  the  cultivated  lowlands  at  your 
back,  and  let  the  imagination  follow  the  eye  into  a  blue 
distance  where  things  still  exhibit  nearly  the  same  moral 
aspect  as  they  did  a  thousand  years  ago.  It  is  said  that 
when  Rob  Boy  haunted  the  opposite  coasts  of  Dumbar- 
tonshire, he  found  it  very  convenient  to  sail  across  and 
make  a  selection  from  the  goods  displayed  in  the 
Greenock  fairs  ;  on  which  occasion  the  ellwands  and 
staves  of  civilisation  would  come  into  collision  with  the 
broadswords  and  dirks  of  savage  warfare  in  such  a  style 
as  might  have  served  to  show  the  extremely  slight  hold 
which  the  law  had  as  yet  taken  of  certain  parts  of  our 
country.'  Leaving  out  the  more  imaginative  portions 
of  this  picture  it  still  shows  how  Greenock  stands  on 
the  threshold  of  the  rather  prosaic  haunts  of  industry 
and  the  freer  but  less  remunerative  wilds  of  the  High- 
lands. Pennant,  who  visited  Greenock  in  the  course  of 
one  of  his  tours,  gives  the  following  graphic  account  of 
the  view  from  an  eminence  in  the  neighbourhood — '  The 
magnificeuce  of  the  prospect  from  the  hill  behind  tlie 
towns  of  Greenock  and  Port  Glasgow,  and  even  from 
the  quays  of  these  towns,  deserves  notice.  Immediately 
before  you  is  the  river  Clyde,  having  all  the  appearance 
of  a  fresh-water  lake  (as  the  outlet  to  the  sea  is  not 
visible),  with  numbers  of  large  and  small  vessels  sailing 
upon  it.  Next  to  this,  the  opposite  coast  of  Dumbarton 
and  Argyllshire,  abounding  in  gentlemen's  seats,  meets 
the  eye,  and  the  prospect  is  terminated  by  the  western 
range  of  the  Grampian  Mountains  at  unequal  distances, 
and  so  ragged  and  craggy  on  the  tops,  that,  by  way  of 
contrast,  they  are  called  here  by  the  emphatical  name 
of  the  Duke  of  Argyll's  Bowling  Green.  Along  the 
skirts  of  the  hills  there  are  many  eligible  situations  for 
those  who  have  a  relish  for  the  beauty  and  magnificence 
of  nature.  Below  them,  the  to\vns  of  Greenock  and 
Port  Glasgow,  with  their  convenient  and  crowded  har- 
bours. On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Firth  are  in  view 
the  parishes  of  "West  Kilpatrick,  Dumbarton  with  its 
rock  and  castle,  Cardross,  Row,  and  the  peninsular 
parish  of  Roseneath,  on  the  SE  of  wdiich  is  a  castle  of  the 
Duke  of  Argyll  with  flourishing  plantations.  In  ascend- 
ing the  Greenock  hills,  the  prospect  is  still  varied  and 
extending.  From  Corlic,  the  highest  ground  in  the 
parish,  may  be  seen  in  a  clear  day,  besides  that  of  Ren- 
frew, part  of  the  counties  of  Bute,  Arran,  and  Argyll, 
with  the  western  part  of  the  Grampian  Mountains,  of 
Perth,  Stirling,  Lanark,  and  Ayr.'  The  view,  too,  from 
the  top  of  Lyle  Road  overlooking  Gourock  Bay  (opened 
1  May  1880)  embraces  parts  of  the  shires  of  Ayr,  Argyll, 
Bute,  Dumbarton,  Lanark,  Perth,  and  Stirling. 

Of  the  origin  of  Greenock  nothing  definite  is  known, 
though  it  might  be  safe  to  conjecture  that  tlie  village 
grew  up  round  the  religious  establishment  which  gave 
its  name  to  the  bay.  'There  were  three  chapels  in  the 
neighbourhood,  that  of  St  Laurence,  which  stood  at  the 
220 


GREENOCK 

W  corner  of  Virginia  Street,  and  of  which  traces  were 
extant  till  1760 ;  a  second  at  Chapelton  at  the  extremity 
of  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  East  parish  ;  and  a  third, 
dedicated  to  St  Blane,  a  little  below  Kilblain.  The 
castle  of  Easter  Greenock  stood  about  1  mile  E  of  the 
present  town  ;  and  that  of  Wester  Greenock  on  the  site 
of  the  Mansion-House  on  an  eminence  above  the 
Assembly  Rooms.  This  was  the  residence  of  the  family 
of  Shaw  of  Greenock,  with  whom  the  fortunes  of  the 
town  were  for  a  long  time  bound  up.  John  Shaw  of 
Greenock  received  permission  from  James  VI.  in  1589 
to  erect  a  church  in  Greenock,  and  the  records  of  the 
Scottish  Parliaments  show  that  it  was  built  in  1592. 
The  parish  was  disjoined  from  Innerkip  and  erected 
into  a  separate  charge  in  1594,  and  was  legally  con- 
stituted a  parish  in  1636.  (See  Gp.eenock  parish.)  The 
same  John  Shaw  obtained  a  charter  from  Charles  I.  in . 
1635  (the  king  acting  for  his  son  Baron  Renfrew,  a  title 
still  held  by  the  Prince  of  Wales),  conferring  upon 
Greenock  the  rights  and  privileges  of  a  burgh  of  barony, 
including  permission  to  hold  a  weekly  market  on  Friday 
and  two  fairs  annually.  This  charter  was  confirmed  by 
the  Scottish  Parliament  in  1641.  A  baron  bailie  was 
appointed,  and  regular  courts  were  instituted  im- 
mediately on  the  granting  of  the  charter.  The  laird 
was  not  content  with  these  endeavours,  and  further 
benefited  the  young  burgh  by  building  a  dry  stone  pier 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  passage  boats  for  Ireland 
and  of  the  fishermen.  The  next  notice  of  the  town  is 
in  a  report  by  Thomas  Tucker,  a  customs  official,  deputed 
in  1656  by  Cromwell's  government  to  examine  into  the 
revenues  of  the  Clyde  ports.  He  speaks  of  Greenock, 
whose  inhabitants  are  '  all  seamen  or  fishermen  trading 
for  Ireland  or  the  Isles  in  open  boats,  at  wdiich  place 
there  is  a  mole  or  pier  where  vessels  might  ride  or 
shelter  in  stress  of  weather.'  In  1670  a  French  traveller, 
M.  Jorevein  de  Rocheford,  visited  '  Krinock,'  which  he 
says  is  '  the  town  where  the  Scots  post  and  packet  boat 
starts  for  Ireland.  Its  port  is  good,  sheltered  by  the 
mountains  which  surround  it,  and  by  a  great  mole  by 
the  sides  of  which  are  ranged  the  barks  and  other  vessels 
for  the  conveniency  of  loading  and  unloading  more 
easily.'  The  charter  of  Greenock  expressly  denied  per- 
mission to  engage  in  foreign  trade,  which  was  the  ex- 
clusive privilege  of  royal  burghs.  So  jealous  were  the 
latter  of  this  right  that  John  Spreule,  representative  of 
Renfrew  in  Parliament,  made  a  stipulation  before  its 
confirmation,  that  '  the  charter  to  Greenock  was  to  be 
in  no  ways  prejudicial  to  our  antient  privileges  con- 
tained in  our  infeftment  as  accords  of  law.'  Shaw  of 
Greenock  endeavoured  to  remove  this  restriction,  and 
in  spite  of  the  opposition  of  the  royal  burghs,  he  was 
successful  in  1670,  owing  chiefl}',  it  is  said,  to  the  ser- 
vices rendered  by  his  son  to  the  King  at  the  battle  of 
Worcester.  This  second  charter,  granting  the  privilege 
of  buying  and  selling  wine,  wax,  salt,  brandy,  pitch, 
tar,  and  other  goods  and  merchandise,  was  not  conlrrmed 
by  Parliament  till  1681,  but  the  knight  acted  on  it 
before  this,  and  in  consequence  a  Greenock  ship  with 
foreign  produce  on  board  was  seized  by  agents  of  the 
royal  burghs  and  conveyed  to  Newark,  the  place  now 
called  Port  Glasgow.  Roused  at  this,  about  a  hundred 
inhabitants  of  Greenock,  under  the  command  of  Sir  John 
Shaw,  Laird  of  Greenock,  and  Mr  Bannatyne  of  Kelly, 
rowed  to  Newark  to  recapture  their  vessel.  A  number 
of  armed  men  were  on  board,  and  after  a  tough  struggle, 
in  which  several  of  both  parties  were  wounded,  the 
Greenock  men  had  to  retire  discomfited.  A  complaint 
concerning  the  whole  matter  was  made  to  the  Lords  of 
Secret  Council  by  the  royal  burghs  of  Glasgow,  Dum- 
barton, and  Renfrew,  and,  though  the  charter  of  1670 
saved  Greenock  from  any  penalties,  the  town  was  forced 
to  pay  an  '  unfree  trade  cess '  to  the  royal  bm-ghs  for 
permission  to  retain  the  foreign  trade.  A  commissioner 
was  appointed  to  fix  the  sum  of  this  cess,  and  eight 
shillings  Scots  was  named,  the  amount  to  increase  with 
the  number  and  size  of  the  vessels  engaged  in  the  trade. 
This  assessment  in  1879  was  about  £75  ;  it  is  now  abol- 
ished.    The  evidence  taken  by  the  commissioner  gives  an 


GKEENOCK 

idea  of  the  sliipping  owned  in  Greenock  at  that  period. 
Tlie  baron  bailie  explained  that  only  one  vessel,  the  John, 
was  wholly  owned  in  Greenock,  the  Neptune  belonged 
partly  to  Greenock  and  partly  to  its  suburb  Cartsdyke, 
and  two  others,  the  Ocorgc  and  the  Hcndrie,  were  owned 
in  Glasgow  and  Greenock.  Fishing  boats  were  excluded 
from  the  commissioner's  calculations.  In  1670,  the 
year  of  the  disputed  charter,  a  company  for  curing  her- 
rings was  started,  and  among  the  shareholders  was 
Charles  II.,  from  which  circumstance  the  corporation 
adopted  the  title  of  'Royal.'  This  company  selected 
Greenock  as  one  of  its  principal  stations.  Cellars  and 
stores  were  built,  and  the  company  throve  for  a  time, 
its  charter  putting  certain  restrictions  upon  all  other 
fish-curers,  and  thus  giving  it  a  practical  monopoly. 
The  injury  done  to  others  was  found  to  outweigh  the 
benefits  of  the  society,  and  it  was  dissolved  in  1690. 
To  give  an  idea  of  the  extent  of  the  herring  fishing  in- 
dustry at  Greenock  about  this  time,  it  may  be  noted 
that  in  1674  as  many  as  20,400  barrels  were  exported  to 
La  Kochelle  alone,  besides  quantities  to  other  parts  of 
France,  to  Dantzig,  and  to  Swedish  and  Baltic  ports. 
The  number  of  herring  fishing  boats,  or  '  busses '  as  they 
were  called,  belonging  to  Greenock  and  neighbouring 
Clyde  towns  was  over  300,  about  one-half  belonging  to 
Greenock,  and  the  value  and  extent  of  the  fishery  was 
indicated  by  the  motto  then  adopted  by  Greenock,  'Let 
herrings  swim  that  trade  maintain. '  Fifty-seven  other 
kinds  of  fish  were  caught  in  the  surrounding  waters, 
but  none  of  them  approached  the  herring  in  importance. 
Cargoes  of  grain  and  timber  began  to  come  into  Greenock 
about  this  period  and  thus  helped  to  lift  the  place  into 
importance,  for  stores  and  offices  became  requisite,  and 
the  town  thus  increased  in  size  and  wealth.  An  in- 
teresting incident  in  the  history  of  the  port  was  the 
first  voyage  made  across  the  Atlantic  by  a  Greenock 
ship.  This  was  the  George,  which  sailed  in  16S6  with  a 
cargoand  twenty -twonon-conformingprisoners  sentenced 
to  transportation  for  life  to  Carolina  for  disaffection  to 
the  Government  and  for  attending  conventicles.  In  1696 
one  of  the  ships  of  the  Darren  expedition  was  fitted  out 
at  Cartsdyke,  the  eastern  subm'b  of  Greenock,  which 
had  been  erected  into  a  burgh  of  barony  in  1636.  Carts- 
dyke, which  was  famed  for  red  herring  curing,  is  called 
j  'the  Bay  of  St  Lawrence  on  the  Clyde,'  in  the  account 
.  of  the  unhappy  expedition.  The  closing  years  of  the 
I  17th  century  were  notable  as  far  as  Greenock  was  con- 
i  cerned  for  the  repeated  efforts  made  by  Sir  John  Shaw 
and  his  son  to  obtain  parliamentary  powers  and  assist- 
ance to  extend  the  harbour  accommodation  of  the  port, 
and  to  levy  dues  to  cover  this  expense.  Three  times 
these  endeavours  were  defeated  by  the  combined  resist- 
ance of  the  royal  burghs  on  the  Clyde,  assisted  by  other 
bui'ghs  all  over  Scotland.  Sir  John  Shaw  died  in  1702, 
and  his  son,  weary  of  the  constant  contest  in  Parliament, 
proposed  to  the  feuars  of  Greenock  to  erect  a  harbour  at 
their  own  expense.  He  suggested  that  quays  should  be 
built  out  into  the  bay  enclosing  a  space  of  over  8  acres. 
The  funds,  he  thought,  should  be  provided  by  a  tax  on 
all  malt  ground  at  the  mill  of  Greenock,  by  an  annual 
sum  of  £15  to  be  raised  by  the  feuars,  and  by  the 
anchorage  dues  of  all  foreign  vessels  in  the  bay.  Sir  John 
reserving  to  himself  the  dues  of  all  ships  belonging  to 
the  town.  He  was  to  advance  the  money  required  as 
the  work  went  on.  A  contract  to  this  effect  was  drawn 
up  and  signed  in  1703,  and,  after  some  money  had 
accumulated,  the  work  was  begun  in  1707,  gardeners 
and  masons  being  brought  from  Edinburgh,  the  former 
being  at  that  period  universally  employed  in  Scotland 
for  excavating.  In  1710  the  harbour  and  quays  were 
finished  amid  general  rejoicing,  the  whole  having  cost 
£5555,  lis.  Id.  The  breasts  connecting  the  quays  were 
not  built  till  1764,  the  harbours  having  been  transferred 
to  the  town  council  by  the  charter  of  1751.  In  1710 
Crawfurd  describes  Greenock  as  '  the  chief  town  upon 
the  coast,  well  built,  consisting  chiefly  of  one  principal 
street,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length.'  About  this 
time  the  houses  were  covered  with  thatch ;  in  1716 
there  were  only  6  slated  houses  in  the  place.     The  har- 


GREENOCK 

hour  is  alluded  to  by  a  writer  in  1711  as  'a  most  com- 
modious, safe,  and  good  harbour,  having  18  feet  depth 
at  spring  tide.'  The  bonds  given  to  Sir  John  Shaw  in 
return  for  the  money  advanced  by  him  are  still  extant, 
and  show  that  the  "first  sum  handed  over  by  the  laird 
was  1000  merks  on  25  May  1705  ;  the  second,  on  28 
Feb.  1707,  £750,  12s.  Scots;  the  third,  on  20  April 
1710,  2000  merks;  and  the  fourth,  £2439,  12s.  3d. 
Scots,  advanced  on  25  Sept.  1710.  The  immediate 
increase  of  revenue  consequent  on  the  extension  of  the 
harbour  accommodation  made  it  possible  to  pay  these 
off  very  soon,  the  first  bond  being  redeemed  ou  22  Nov. 
1720,  and  the  last  on  5  Dec.  1730.  In  July  1708  Sir 
John  Shaw,  then  member  for  Renfrewshire,  applied  to 
Parliament  for  the  establishment  of  a  branch  of  the 
custom  house  at  Greenock.  The  petition  was  granted, 
and  Greenock  was  made  a  creek  of  Port  Glasgow,  then 
the.  principal  customs  station  on  the  Clyde.  In  due 
time  this  relationship  was  reversed,  and  Port  Glasgow 
became  officially  subordinate  to  Greenock  as  it  had  then 
become  in  reality.  The  rapid  increase  of  foreign  trade 
now  stirred  up  more  formidable  enemies  to  the  rising 
port  than  the  Scottish  royal  burghs  had  been. 
Merchants  of  London,  Liverpool,  Bristol,  and  White- 
haven found  that  they  were  being  cut  out  of  continental 
commerce,  and  they  sought  to  prove  that  Greenock  was 
favoured  by  collusion  between  the  customs  officials  and 
the  merchants  of  the  town.  A  bill  was  introduced  to 
take  away  the  foreign  trade  privileges  of  Greenock,  and 
it  required  the  reports  of  two  commissions,  which  wholly 
exonerated  the  town  from  the  charges,  backed  by  the 
streniious  exertions  of  the  Scottish  representatives  in 
the  British  Parliament  to  avert  the  threatened  calamity. 
The  customs  officials,  who  were  Englishmen,  were 
changed,  a  fresh  body  of  officers  from  England  being  in- 
stalled to  collect  the  revenues  of  Greenock.  In  1715,  the 
year  of  the  Earl  of  Mar's  rising  in  favour  of  the  Chevalier 
St  George,  Greenock  espoused  the  Hanoverian  cause, 
and  ninety-two  of  its  citizens  volunteered  to  the  Duke 
of  Argyll's  army.  They  were  taken  in  boats  to  Glasgow 
and  marched  thence  to  Stirling,  where  they  joined  the 
Hanoverian  forces.  'While  Sir  John  Shaw  was  away 
fighting  the  Jacobites  Rob  Roy  created  a  diversion  at 
Greenock  by  capturing  all  the  boats  on  the  N  shore  of 
the  Clyde,  and  'lifting'  cattle  from  the  parishes  of 
Cardross,  Erskine,  and  Houston.  He  conveyed  the 
cattle  up  the  river  Leven  at  Dumbarton  to  Loch  Lomond, 
landing  them  at  Rowardennan,  thence  driving  them  into 
his  retreats  in  the  Braes  of  Balquhidder.  A  hundred 
Greenock  men,  assisted  by  arms  and  men  from  a  74-gun 
ship  in  the  roads  pursued  the  caterans,  but  only  suc- 
ceeded in  regaining  the  stolen  boats.  The  episode  of 
the  Rising  of  '  The  Fifteen '  cost  the  burgh  of  Greenock 
£1529,  5s.  4d.  besides  much  anxiety.  In  1728,  the  first 
year  the  returns  were  published,  the  customs  revenue  of 
Greenock  amounted  to  £15,231,  4s.  4d.  ;  and  at  that 
time  900  large  boats  were  engaged  in  the  herring  fishery, 
these  figures  amply  showing  the  prosperity  of  the  place. 
Till  1741  the  burghal  affairs  of  Greenock  were  super- 
intended by  the  laird,  the  feudal  superior,  or  by  a 
baron-bailie  appointed  by  him.  By  a  charter  dated 
30  Jan.  in  that  j'ear,  and  by  another  dated  in  1751,  Sir 
John  Shaw  gave  power  to  the  feuars  and  sub-feuars  to 
meet  yearly  for  the  purpose  of  choosing  9  feuars  resid- 
ing in  Greenock,  to  be  managers  of  the  burgh  funds,  of 
whom  2  to  be  bailies,  1  treasurer,  and  6  councillors. 
The  charter  of  1751  gave  power  to  hold  weeklj'  courts, 
to  imprison  and  punish  delinquents,  to  choose  officers  of 
court,  to  make  laws  for  maintaining  order,  and  to  admit 
merchants  and  tradesmen  as  burgesses  on  payment  of 
30  merks  Scots — £1,  13s.  4d.  sterling.  The  qualifica- 
tion of  councillor  was  being  a  feuar  and  resident  within 
the  town.  The  election  lay  with  the  feuars,  resident 
and  non-resident ;  the  mode  of  election  of  the  magis- 
trates and  council  being  by  signed  lists,  personally  de- 
livered by  the  voter,  stating  the  names  of  the  councillors 
he  mshed  to  be  removed,  and  the  persons  whom  he  mshed 
substituted  in  their  room.  In  the  interval  between 
these  two  charters,   the  .'second  Jacobite  insurrection 

221 


GBEENOCK 

occurred,  and  the  part  taken  by  Greenock  in  1715 
naturally  draws  attention  to  its  action  in  1745.  This 
time  the  citizens  were  more  passive  in  their  adherence 
to  the  de  facto  government,  and  Sir  John  Shaw,  now  old 
and  infirm,  but  always  active,  raised  and  drilled  a  body 
of  volunteers  for  the  defence  of  the  neighbourhood.  In 
these  days  it  may  be  difficult  to  understand  the  deep 
feeling  which  moved  Greenock  on  the  death  of  Sir  John 
Shaw,  so  long  the  feudal  superior,  patron,  advocate,  and 
leading  spirit  of  the  town,  which  sad  event  took  place  on 
5  April  1752.  In  1825  a  portrait  of  this  public-spirited 
benefactor  was  subscribed  for  and  placed  in  the  Public 
Reading  Koom  of  Greenock. 

After  this  date  the  history  of  Greenock  is  best  told  in 
an  account  of  the  numerous  harbour  extensions  rendered 
necessary  by  the  constantly  increasing  prosperity  and 
importance  of  the  port.  But,  before  taking  up  this, 
some  notice  must  be  taken  of  the  burgh  of  Carts- 
dyke,  which  has  been  already  alluded  to.  In  1636, 
the  date  of  the  first  Greenock  charter,  Cartsdyke  (so 
called  from  the  dyke  or  quay  there,  and  said  to  be 
contracted  from  Crawfordsdyke)  was  an  important  place, 
so  jealous  of  its  neighbour  burgh,  that,  when  Greenock 
received  a  charter,  it  too  got  itself  erected  into  a  burgh 
of  barony,  with  the  privilege  of  a  weekly  fair.  The  poll- 
tax  roll  of  1696  bears  evidence  of  the  prosperity  of  the 
herring  trade  of  Cartsdyke,  and  a  writer  describes  the 
burgh,  in  1710,  as  possessing  a  very  convenient  harbour 
for  vessels,  and  the  town  as  chiefly  feued  by  merchants, 
seamen,  or  loading  men.  In  1752  a  white-fishing  station 
was  established  at  Cappielow,  near  Garvel  Point,  and 
about  the  same  time  some  Dutch  whalers  settled  at  Carts- 
dyke, four  vessels  being  despatched  to  the  Greenland 
seas  in  one  year.  The  success  of  this  venture  was  not 
great  enough  to  justify  its  continuation,  and,  in  1788, 
the  industry  was  abandoned  altogether.  In  earlier  days 
the  two  burghs  were  separated,  not  only  by  jealousy, 
but  by  two  considerable  streams.  Bailing  or  Delling 
Burn,  and  Crawford's  or  Carts  Burn.  A  road  between 
the  two  townships  was  maintained  at  their  joint  expense, 
but  the  extension  of  both,  and  the  course  of  time,  obli- 
terated the  distinction  between  them,  and  the  fusion 
was  completed  in  1840  by  an  Act  of  Parliament,  which 
united  them  in  one  burgh.  While  Greenock  has  practi- 
cally swallowed  up  Cartsdyke,  the  latter  possesses  all  the 
greater  and  later  harbour  works,  as  will  be  seen  further 
on. 

The  year  1760  deserves  to  be  noted  as  the  date  of  the 
launch  of  the  first  sciuare-rigged  vessel  built  in  Greenock. 
This  was  the  brig  Greenock  built  by  Peter  Love.  In 
1782  the  merchants  of  Greenock  became  aware  of  the  ne- 
cessity for  a  graving-dock,  and  consultations  between 
the  merchants  and  the  town  council  resulted  in  the 
formation  of  a  company  with  funds  to  the  amount  of 
£3500,  of  which  £580  was  subscribed  by  the  town.  The 
dock  was  completed  in  1786,  and  cost  about  £4000.  It 
is  220  feet  long  at  the  floor-level,  33  feet  11  inches  wide 
at  the  entrance,  and  9  feet  9  inches  deep  on  the  sill  at 
high  water.  The  next  move  in  the  direction  of  increas- 
ing the  accommodation  for  vessels  was  the  erection  of 
what  is  now  known  as  the  Old  Steamboat  Quay.  A 
resolution  to  add  a  new  eastern  arm  to  the  E  quay  was 
come  to  in  1788,  and  the  work  was  carried  out  at  an  ex- 
pense of  £3840,  which  covered  the  cost  of  the  eastward 
extension,  and  the  re-construction  of  the  westward  arm 
of  the  E  quay.  When  these  were  completed  it  was 
found  that  a  rock  called  the  Leo  hindered  the  access  of 
vessels  to  the  quay,  and,  in  consequence,  a  new  contract 
for  a  work  to  cover  this  was  entered  into  in  1791.  Fur- 
ther improvements  on  the  Steamboat  Quay  were  made 
between  1809  and  1818,  when  new  breasts  were  built 
round  all  the  harbours,  and  the  quays  were  advanced  a 
few  feet  riverwards.  The  quayage  of  the  Steamboat 
Quay,  or  Customhouse  Quay,  as  it  is  sometimes  styled, 
is  1000  feet.  A  considerable  time  now  elapsed  before 
another  actual  extension  of  the  harbour  was  undertaken, 
and  the  29th  of  May  1805  was  signalised  by  the  cere- 
mony of  laying,  with  masonic  honours  the  foundation- 
stone  of  the  East  India  Harbour,  extending  from  the 
222 


GREENOCK 

Steamboat  Quay  on  the  W  to  the  Bailing  Bum  on  the 
E.  It  was  designed  by  John  Rennie,  who  estimated  the 
cost  at  £43,836  exclusive  of  the  site.  Its  area  was  9 
statute  acres,  and  it  was  budt,  as  its  name  indicates,  for 
the  accommodation  of  the  East  India  trade.  Its  extent 
has  been  diminished  by  the  broadening  of  the  quays, 
and  by  the  construction  of  the  New  Dry  Bock  close  by. 
It  is  now  only  6|  acres  in  area,  and  the  quay  frontage 
is  3380  feet.  The  next  increase  of  harbour  accommoda- 
tion was  brought  about  by  the  building  of  the  New  Bry 
Bock  begun  iu  1818.  The  plan  was  a  modification  of 
another  design  prepared,  in  1805,  by  Mr  Rennie,  but  re- 
jected by  the  harbour  trustees  on  account  of  the  esti- 
mated expense  (£36,000).  This  dock  is  situated  at  the 
SW  corner  of  the  East  India  Harbour,  and  cost  £20,000. 
The  work  was  executed  by  an  Edinburgh  contractor, 
who  had  bmlt  the  Custom  House.  The  dock  is  356 
feet  long  on  the  floor-level,  38  feet  wide  at  the  entrance, 
and  at  high  water  has  a  depth  on  the  sill  of  11  feet  10 
inches.  The  want  of  still  greater  accommodation  for 
vessels  began  to  be  felt  in  course  of  time,  and,  in  1846, 
the  Victoria  Harbour,  designed  by  Mr  Joseph  Locke, 
M.P.,  and  constructed  by  Messrs  Stephenson,  M'Keuzie, 
and  Brassey,  was  begun.  It  cost  £120,000,  and  was 
finished  in  1850.  The  area  is  5J  acres,  the  depth  at 
low  water  14  feet,  and  at  high  water  24  feet,  and  the 
quayage  extends  to  2350  feet.  The  soU  excavated  for 
this  harbour  was  carted  down  to  where  the  Albert  Har- 
bour now  stands,  and  when  the  latter  was  consti'ucted 
the  earth  was  taken  still  further  down  the  river,  where, 
with  a  substantial  retaining-waU  in  front,  it  forms  a 
handsome  esplanade,  IJ  mile  in  length  and  100  feet 
broad.  Before  the  commencement  of  this  harbour 
there  was  a  dispute  as  to  whether  it  should  be  made 
down  the  river  or  in  the  direction  of  Cartsdyke,  and 
the  latter  opinion  prevaOed.  The  letting-in  of  the 
water  into  the  Victoria  Harbour,  17  Oct.  1850,  was  the 
occasion  of  a  great  municipal,  masonic,  and  trades  de- 
monstration, the  foundation  of  Sir  Gabriel  Wood's 
Asylum  being  laid  on  the  same  day.  The  next  harbour 
was  built  further  seaward  than  any  other,  and  occupies 
the  site  of  the  Albert  Quay  and  of  Fort  Jervis,  erected 
to  protect  the  Clyde  duriug  the  Napoleonic  wars.  The 
foundation-stone  of  the  Albert  Harbour  was  laid  with 
great  ceremony  on  7  Aug.  1862.  In  its  construction 
some  engineering  novelties  were  introduced  with  suc- 
cessful results.  Exclusive  of  sheds  it  cost  £200,000, 
and,  with  the  ground,  sheds,  and  other  appliances, 
the  expense  was  over  £250,000.  Its  extent  is  lOf 
acres,  the  quay  accommodation  4230  feet,  the  depth  at 
low  water  14  feet,  and  at  high  tide  24  feet.  The  estab- 
lishment of  a  railway  terminus  close  by,  by  the  Glas- 
gow and  South-Western  Railway  Company,  gave  addi- 
tional importance  to  this  large  harbour.  In  1882  the 
harbour  trustees  resolved  to  improve  and  dredge  the 
hai'bom',  to  widen  its  NW  arm,  and  to  erect  new  sheds 
on  the  latter  at  an  estimated  cost  of  £15,230.  Greenock's 
next  addition  to  its  spreading  quay  system  was  the 
Princes  Pier,  running  W  from  the  Albert  Harbour, 
principally  used  as  a  stopping  place  for  railway  and  river 
steamers.  It  has  cost  nearly  £100,000,  and  the  frontage 
is  2206  feet,  of  which  the  sea  frontage,  available  for 
deep-sea  steamers,  constitutes  1250  feet,  the  remainder 
being  in  the  form  of  an  enclosed  boat  harbour.  The 
depth  at  low  water  is  fully  16  feet.  We  have  to  turn 
again  to  Cartsdyke  to  find  a  series  of  stupendous  un- 
dertakings rendered  necessary  by  the  continued  in- 
crease of  the  commerce  of  Greenock,  and  certain  to 
stUl  further  stimulate  that  prosperity.  First  in  order 
of  time  is  the  Garvel  graving  dock,  built  on  the 
Garvel  estate,  acquired  by  the  harbour  trustees  in  1868 
for  £80, 000.  The  foundation-stone  of  the  dock  was  laid 
on  6  July  1871.  It  is  a  magnificent  specimen  of  marine 
engineering,  and  was  designed  by  Mr  W.  R.  Kinniple, 
the  trustees'  engineer.  Costing  £80,000,  it  is  built  of 
Dalbeattie  granite,  and  has  a  specially  designed  caisson 
at  the  entrance.  It  is  650  feet  long,  6O5  feet  wide  at 
the  gate,  and  has  20  feet  of  water  on  the  sill  at  ordinary 
spring  tides.     The  James  Watt  Dock  is  also  built  on 


GREENOCK 

the  Garvel  estate,  and  this  work  was  begun  by  the 
cutting  of  the  hist  sod  on  1  Aug.  1S79,  the  foundation- 
stone  being  laid  on  6  Aug.  1881,  on  tlie  same  day  as 
that  of  the  new  municipal  buildings.  The  dock  was 
designed  by  Mr  Kinniple,  and  built  by  Mr  John  Wad- 
dell,  of  Edinburgh,  at  a  cost  of  £350,000.  It  is  2000 
feet  in  length,  300  feet  wide,  with  a  depth  of  32  feet  at 
low  water,  and  the  breadth  of  the  entrance  at  the  coping 
level  is  75  feet.  In  further  extension  of  the  harbour 
accommodation  of  Greenock,  an  Act  was  obtained  in 
1880,  giving  power  to  build  a  massive  river-wall  from 
Garvel  Point  to  Inchgreen,  an  extensive  work,  in  the 
prosecution  of  which  the  electric  light  was  for  the  first 
time  used  in  Scotland  for  any  public  purpose.  This 
wall  when  completed  will  embrace  two  large  tidal  har- 
bours, the  Northern  Harbour,  of  7  acres,  and  the  Great 
Harbour  of  46  acres,  both  of  which  are  intended  to  have 
a  depth  of  25  feet  at  low  water.  Those  later  works  in 
all  involve  an  expenditure  of  about  £800,000.  The  total 
harbour  accommodation  of  Greenock,  when  those  works 
are  completed,  will  amount  to  upwards  of  105  acres,  of 
which  the  later  works  will  present  an  average  depth  of 
25  feet  at  low  water,  while  the  James  Watt  Dock  has  a 
depth,  as  stated,  of  32  feet  at  low  water.  It  is  fully  an- 
ticipated that  with  such  harbours,  Greenock  will  secure 
much  of  the  larger  trade  of  the  Clyde,  the  passage  to  Glas- 
gow, especially  in  winter,  being  difficult  and  dangerous. 
At  the  fete  in  Aug.  1881,  when  those  later  works  were 
inaugurated,  a  '  Celebration  Ode  '  was  written,  of  which 
the  following  verse  aptly  summarises  all  that  has  been 
done  and  projected  to  improve  the  port : — 

Thus  h.ave  we  come  by  leaps  and  bounds 

To  hold  the  vantag:e  nature  gives, 
'Spite  the  veiled  darts  of  feigned  friends. 

Let  it  be  known  that  Greenock  lives. 

The  following  table  gives  the  aggregate  tonnage  of 
vessels  registered  as  belonging  to  Greenock  at  dili'erent 
periods  during  the  present  century  : — 


Dec.  31. 

Sailing. 

Steam, 

Total. 

1825,     .     .     . 

29,0.54 

.. 

29,054 

1837,     .     .     . 

47,421 

47,421 

1853,     .     .     . 

71,886 

2,012 

73,898 

1867,     .     .     . 

101,584 

2,335 

103,919 

1874,     .     .     . 

149,014 

3,637 

152,.551 

1878,     .     .     . 

174,318 

32,317 

206,685 

18S1,     .    .     . 

168,644 

50,572 

219,216 

The  increase  shown  here  is  due  more  to  the  size  than  to 
the  number  of  the  vessels,  this  having  been  241  in  1825, 
386  in  1837,  418  in  1853,  384  in  1867,  and  444  in  1881, 
viz.,  358  sailing  and  86  steam.  The  next  table  gives 
the  tonnage  of  vessels  that  entered  and  cleared  from  and 
to  foreign  countries  and  coastwise  : — 


1701 

Entered. 

Cleared. 

British. 

For'gn. 

Total. 

1 
British.  For'gn. 

Total. 

55,060 

3,778 

68,838 

47,991 

2,390 

50,381 

1829 

123,513 

2,572 

126,085 

88,367 

2,130 

90,497 

1837 

177,344 

8,267 

185,611 

228,621 

6,521 

235,142 

1852 

170,584 

2,133 

172,717 

73,378 

2,066 

76,044 

1S60 

291,743 

20.513 

812,256 

161,920 

10,124 

172,044 

1867 

387,260 

34,752 

422,012 

214,306 

21,561 

235,867 

1874 

1,124,461 

59,214 

1,183,675 

'  512,132 

72,526 

584,658 

1880 

1,399,464 

68,130 

1,467,594 

710,176 

65,912 

776,088 

1881 

1,399,459  j  71,191 

1,470,660 

.  739,860 

66,865 

806,725 

Of  the  total,  7597  vessels  of  1,470,650  tons,  that  entered 
in  1881,  6181  of  1,167,278  tons  were  steamers,  1679  of 
171,707  tons  were  in  ballast,  and  7023  of  1,163,441 
tons  were  coasters;  whilst  the  total,  5235  of  806,725 
tons,  of  those  that  cleared,  included  3813  steamers  of 
475,983  tons,  2500  ships  in  ballast  of  359,153  tons,  and 
4869  coasters  of  605,590  tons.  The  total  value  of 
foreign  and  colonial  imports  was  £5,278,155  in  1875, 
£7,947,491  in  1877,  £5,097,602  in  1879,  £5,349,115  in 


GREENOCK 

1881,  in  which  last  year  they  comprised  3,497,217  cwts. 
of  unrefined  and  154,453  of  refined  sugar,  156,935  loads 
of  timber,  111,060  cwts.  of  corn,  etc.  Of  exports  to 
foreign  ports  the  value  in  1831  was  £1,493,405,  in  1851 
£491,913,  in  1868  £374,641,  in  1872  £861,065,  in  1875 
£420,526,  in  1877  £471,415,  in  1878  £349,731,  in  1880 
£423,092,  and  in  1881  £386,973,  this  last  including 
£130,750  for  refined  sugar,  £59,784  for  coal,  £39,485 
for  iron,  and  £27,710  for  gunpowder.  The  customs 
revenue  collected  here  amounted  to  £211,081  in  1802, 
£592,008  in  1831,  £410,206  in  1851,  £1,484,972  in  1867, 
£1,006,449  in  1872,  £139,815  in  1874,  £38,774  in  1875, 
and  £47,034  in  1881. 

Greenock  is  head  of  the  fishery  district  between  those 
of  Rothesay  and  Ballantrae,  in  which  in  1882  the  num- 
ber of  boats  was  316,  of  fishermen  and  boys  524,  of  fish- 
curers  29,  and  of  coopers  35,  whilst  the  value  of  boats 
wag  £4958,  of  nets  £5040,  and  of  lines  £668.  The 
following  is  the  number  of  barrels  of  herrings  cured  or 
salted  in  this  district  in  different  years : — (1853)  13,794i, 
(1869)  31,784J,  (1870)  10,213i, (1873)  1880,  (1878)  45214, 
(1881)  9903. 

The  manufactures  of  Greenock  are  various  and  ex- 
tensive. Shipbuilding  was  commenced  soon  after  the 
close  of  the  American  war,  and  has  since  risen  to  great 
prominence.  During  a  number  of  years  previous  to 
1840,  from  6000  to  7000  tons  of  shipping  were  annuall 
launched  ;  and  in  that  year  21  vessels,  of  the  aggregat 
tonnage  of  7338,  were  built.  The  tonnage  of  vessels 
built  in  the  port  in  the  last  seven  years  was  as  follows : — 
(1876)  20,000,  (1877)  14,500,  (1878)  21,696,  (1879) 
15,220,  (1880)  22,374,  (1881)  42,210,  (1882)  52,744. 
Nearly  all  the  vessels  built  here  now  are  either  iron  or 
steel,  and  the  majority  of  them  are  steamers.  A 
timber  sale  hall  is  situated  on  Princes  Pier,  and  there 
a  large  business  is  transacted  in  that  branch,  the  timber 
floats  on  the  margin  of  the  river  above  Greenock  and 
Port  Glasgow  being  a  marked  feature  in  the  shore  scenery 
as  viewed  from  railway  or  steamboat.  Iron-working  is 
carried  on  in  sis  establishments  for  all  sorts  of  cast-iron 
work  and  machinery,  but  particularly  for  the  construc- 
tion of  steam-boilers,  steam-engines,  locomotives,  and  iron 
steam-vessels.  The  making  of  anchors  and  chain-cables 
is  carried  on  in  two  separate  establishments.  Sugar- 
refining  is  prosecuted  here  to  a  greater  extent  than 
anywhere  else  in  Scotland.  The  first  house  for  this 
purpose  was  erected  in  1765  ;  and  now  there  are  twelve 
sugar-refineries,  some  of  them  on  a  large  scale.  The 
c[uantity  of  sugar  refined  in  five  consecutive  years  was  as 
follows:— (1876)  240,142  tons,  (1877)  243,240,  (1878) 
251,677,  (1879)  245,844,  (1880)  249,842.  There  are 
also  in  the  town  or  neighbourhood  sail-cloth  factories, 
roperies,  sail-making  establishments,  woollen  factories, 
a  flax-mill,  a  paper-mill,  dyewood-mills,  saw-mills, 
grain-mills,  tanneries,  a  large  cooper  work,  a  distillery, 
breweries,  an  extensive  biscuit  bakery,  soap  and  caudle 
works,  a  pottery,  a  straw-hat  manufactory,  and  chemical 
works  for  saltpetre,  sulphate  of  zinc,  sulphate  of  copper, 
and  phosphate  of  soda.  All  the  ordinary  kinds  of  handi- 
craft are  also  prosecuted. 

In  the  town  the  principal  central  thoroughfare  follows 
the  original  coast  outline,  and  is  in  consequence  tortu- 
ous, and,  for  the  character  of  the  town,  it  is  narrow  and 
somewhat  squalid.  Cathcart  Street  and  Hamilton 
Street,  the  chief  streets,  are  separated  by  Cathcart 
Square,  a  small  space  which,  as  nearly  as  possible, 
marks  the  centre  of  the  town,  and  in  these  places  the 
best  shops  are  found.  The  access  from  Cathcart  Street 
to  the  Custom  House  is  by  East  Quay  Lane,  and  the 
other  cross  streets  leading  to  the  quays  in  this  part  of 
the  town  are  equally  narrow  and  wretched.  Under  the 
Artizans'  Dwellings  Improvement  Scheme,  however,  the 
local  authorities  have  acquired  all  the  property  on  the 
W  side  of  East  Quay  Lane,  which  they  intend  to  widen 
to  40  feet,  and  to  re-name  IJrymner  Street,  in  memory  of 
the  first  chairman  of  the  Improvement  Trust.  The  road- 
ways facing  the  quays  are  partly  spacious  and  pleasant, 
partly  narrow  and  dirty,  and  altogether  irregular  and 
crowded.     The  older  portions  of  the  town  abound  in 

223 


GREENOCK 

narrow  alleys,  filtliy  closes,  and  dingy  houses ;  so  that 
even  the  very  small  part  of  them  which  has  to  be  tra- 
versed from  the  railway  terminus  to  the  Steamboat 
Quay  is  far  from  agreeable  to  strangers.  Most  of  the 
streets  in  the  W,  and  some  on  the  face  of  the  rising 
ground  in  the  centre,  are  regular,  airy,  and  well  built. 
The  western  outskirts  extend  far  and  plentifully,  and 
are  altogether  clean  and  pleasant,  abounding  in  villas, 
looking  freely  out  to  the  firth  or  to  the  Highlands,  and 
combining  a  series  of  fine  foregrounds  with  a  diversified 
perspective. 

At  the  corner  of  Cathcart  Square  stand  the  new  muni- 
cipal buildings  and  town-hall,  the  former,  designed  by  H. 
and  D.  Barclay,  Glasgow,  having  been  begun  on  6  Aug. 
1881.  Through  an  unfortunate  failure  in  negotiation, 
the  authorities  were  unable  to  obtain  possession  of  a 
mean  building  filling  the  outward  corner  of  the  site, 
but  the  buildings  themselves  are  a  stately  Renaissance 
pile,  with  a  dome-capped  tower  245  feet  high.  Their 
cost  was  nearly  £100,000,  and  they  embrace  police, 
cleansing,  and  sanitary  departments.  The  County 
Buildings,  in  Nelson  Street,  were  erected  in  1867  at  a 
cost  of  £8500.  Designed  by  Messrs  Peddie  &  Kinnear 
in  the  Scottish  Baronial  stj-le,  they  form  a  three-storied 
structure  100  feet  long,  with  a  massive  central  tower 
and  spirelet  rising  to  a  height  of  112  feet.  Behind  is 
the  new  prison,  legalised  in  1870,  and  containing  70 
cells.  The  Custom  House,  fronting  the  broad  open 
esplanade  of  the  upper  steamboat  pier,  was  built  in  1818, 
from  designs  by  Burn  of  Edinburgh,  at  a  cost  of  £30,000. 
It  is  a  spacious  edifice,  with  a  fine  Doric  portico.  The 
Theatre  Royal,  a  plain  but  commodious  house  in  West 
Blackball  Street,  was  opened  in  1858. 

Greenock  has  38  places  of  worship,  belonging  to  11 
denominations,  viz.,  11  Established,  10  Free,  6  United 
Presbyterian,  2  Congregational,  2  Roman  Catholic,  2 
Episcopal,  and  1  Reformed  Presbyterian,  1  Evangelical 
Union,  1  Baptist,  1  "Wesleyan,  and  1  Primitive  Methodist. 
The  Middle  Kirk,  in  Cathcart  Square,  was  erected  in 
1757  ;  its  steeple,  a  notable  landmark  in  the  town,  146 
feet  high,  was  added  in  1787.  The  West  Kirk,  situated 
in  Nelson  Street,  and  built  in  1840,  has  also  a  hand- 
some spire  of  1854  ;  and  the  East  Kirk  (1853),  in  Regent 
Street,  is  similarly  distinguishable  in  the  prospect  of  the 
town.  The  old  West  Kirk,  near  Albert  Harbour,  built 
in  1592,  was  restored  in  1864  at  a  cost  of  £2500  to  serve 
as  the  place  of  worship  for  the  North  Church  quoad  sacra 
parish.  It  is  a  low  cruciform  structure,  \vith  a  small 
belfry ;  in  its  churchyard  Mary  Campbell  (Burns's 
'Highland  Mary')  was  buried  in  1786.  A  monument 
by  Mr  John  Mossman  was  erected  over  her  grave  in 
1842.  It  represents  the  parting  at  Coilsfield,  and  above 
is  a  figure  of  '  Grief,'  whilst  beneath  are  the  lines — 

'  O  Mary  !  dear  departed  shade  ! 
Where  is  thy  place  of  blissful  rest  7 ' 

Of  the  Free  churches  the  West  is  a  First  Pointed  edifice 
of  1862,  with  French  features,  whilst  the  Middle, 
Grecian  in  style,  was  erected  in  1870-71  at  a  cost  of 
£16,000,  and  has  a  tower  and  spire  200  feet  high.  One 
may  also  notice  Greenbank  U.P.  chm-oh  (1881-82);  St 
John's  Episcopal,  rebuilt  (1878)  from  designs  by  Mr 
Anderson  in  Early  Middle  Pointed  style  at  a  cost  of 
£8000  ;  St  Mary's  Roman  Catholic  (1862),  a  plain  First 
Pointed  fabric  ;  and  the  Baptist  chapel,  erected  (1878) 
at  a  cost  of  £5000. 

For  a  long  time  the  inhabitants  of  Greenock  were 
almost  exclusively  devoted  to  commerce,  and  gave  little 
countenance  to  literature  or  science.  In  1769,  when 
John  WOson,  a  poet  of  considerable  merit,  the  author 
of  the  well-known  piece  on  'the  Clyde, '  was  admitted 
as  master  of  the  grammer  school  of  Greenock,  the 
magistrates  and  ministers  made  it  a  condition  that  he 
should  abandon  'the  profane  and  unprofitable  art  of 
poem-making,' — a  stipulation  which  thirty  years  after- 
wards drew  from  the  silenced  bard  the  following  acri- 
monious remarks  in  a  letter  addressed  to  his  son  George 
when  a  student  at  Glasgow  College  : — '  I  once  thought 
to  live  by  the  breath  of  fame,  but  how  miserably  was  I 
224 


6BEEN0CK 

disappointed  when,  instead  of  having  my  performances 
applauded  in  crowded  theatres,  and  being  caressed  by 
the  great — for  what  will  not  a  poetaster  in  his  intoxi- 
cating delirium  of  possession  dream  ? — I  was  condemned 
to  bawl  myself  to  hoarseness  to  wayward  brats,  to 
cultivate  sand  and  wash  Ethiopians,  for  all  the  dreary 
days  of  an  obscure  life — the  contempt  of  shopkeepers 
and  brutish  skippers.'  Leyden,  writing  of  this  prohibi- 
tion, says  : — '  After  his  unhappy  arrangement  with  the 
magistrates  he  never  ventured  to  touch  his  forbidden 
lyre,  though  he  often  regarded  it  with  the  mournful 
solemnity  which  the  harshness  of  dependence  and  the 
memory  of  its  departed  sounds  could  not  fail  to  inspire. ' 
Since  that  time  a  better  taste,  and  more  liberality  of 
sentiment,  have  prevailed,  and  some  attention  has 
been  paid  to  the  cultivation  of  science.  In  1783  the 
Greenock  Library  was  instituted ;  and  with  it  was  in- 
corporated in  1834  the  Foreign  Library,  founded  in 
1807.  Special  libraries  have  since  from  time  to  time 
been  added,  including  the  Watt  Scientific  Library, 
founded  in  1816  on  a  donation  of  £100  from  James 
Watt ;  the  Spence  Mathematical  Library,  presented  by 
Mrs  Spence,  the  collector's  widow ;  the  Williamson 
Theological  Library,  the  gift  of  the  Eev.  J.  William- 
son ;  the  Fairrie  Library,  bought  with  a  bequest  of  £100 
left  by  Mr  Thomas  Fairrie ;  the  Buchanan  Library, 
mechanical  and  scientific,  presented  by  Dr  Buchanan  of 
Kilblain  Academy ;  and  the  Caird  Library,  chiefly 
theological,  presented  by  Miss  Caird.  The  present 
librarian  (1883)  is  Mr  Allan  Park  Paton,  a  well-known 
member  of  the  numerous  band  of  minor  lyric  poets 
Scotland  has  produced.  The  Greenock  Library  now 
contains  upwards  of  15,000  volumes,  and  occupies  a 
Tudor  edifice,  called  the  Watt  Institution  and  Greenock 
Library,  in  Union  Street,  erected  by  Mr  Watt,  of 
Soho,  son  of  James  Watt,  in  1887  at  a  cost  of 
£3000.  The  site  was  given  by  Sir  Michael  Shaw 
Stewart.  A  fine  marble  statue  of  Watt,  by  Sir  Francis 
Chantrey,  the  expense  of  which  (£2000)  was  raised  by 
subscription,  adorns  the  entrance  to  the  Institution. 
On  the  front  of  the  pedestal  of  the  statue  is  the  follow- 
ing inscription  from  the  pen  of  Lord  Jeffrey :— '  The 
inhabitants  of  Greenock  have  erected  this  statue  of 
James  Watt,  not  to  extend  a  fame  already  identified 
with  the  miracles  of  steam,  but  to  testify  the  pride  and 
reverence  with  which  he  is  remembered  in  the  place  of 
his  nativity,  and  their  deep  sense  of  the  great  benefits 
his  genius  has  conferred  on  mankind.  Born  19th 
January  1736.  Died  at  Heathfield  in  Staffordshire, 
August  25th,  1819.'  On  the  right  of  the  pedestal  is  a 
shield,  containing  the  arms  of  Greenock,  and  on  the  left 
are  emblems  of  strength  and  speed.  On  the  back  is  an 
elephant,  in  obvious  allusion  to  the  beautiful  parallel 
drawn  by  the  writer  of  the  inscription  between  the 
steam-engine  and  the  trunk  of  that  animal,  which  is 
equally  qualified  to  lift  a  pin  or  to  rend  an  oak.  Behind 
the  Institution  stand  the  Watt  Museum  and  Lecture 
Hall,  endowed  by  Mr  James  M'Lean  of  West  Bank, 
and  erected  in  1876  at  a  cost  of  £7000.  The  Mechanics' 
Institute,  in  Sir  Michael  Street,  was  buUt  in  1840,  and 
contains  a  good  library  and  news-room.  The  Public 
Baths  occupy  part  of  the  same  building,  but  have  their 
entrance  in  'Tobago  Street. 

The  educational  arrangements  of  Greenock  are  in  the 
hands  of  a  school-board  of  11  members,  elected  under 
Lord  Young's  Education  Act.  The  burgh  records  abound 
in  notices  of  the  Grammar  School  of  the  town,  and  from 
them  we  learn  that  in  1751  the  master  of  the  school  was 
reckoned  'a  genteel  appointment,'  with  £20  a  year, 
payable  as  follows  : — Sir  John  Shaw  and  his  heirs,  £3, 
Is.  IJd.  ;  Crawford  of  Cartsburn,  £1,  2s.  2Ad.  ;  old  kirk 
session,  £4,  5s.  9Jd.  ;  new  kirk  session,  £3,  Os.  6|d.  ; 
and  the  remainder  from  the  burgh.  In  1772  the  Eng- 
lish teacher  received  £20,  with  school  fees  of  3s.  per 
pupil  and  the  'Candlemas  ofierings,'  calculated  at  £40. 
In  1835  the  teacher  of  the  Grammar  School  received  a 
salary  of  £50,  with  fees.  In  1855  Greenock  Academy, 
a  large  and  commodious  edifice  in  Nelson  Street,  was 
opened  at  a  cost  of  £7243,  half  of  the  directors  being 


GREENOCK 

appointed  by  the  town  council  and  half  by  the  pro- 
prietors. It  was  transferred  to  the  school-board  in  1881. 
It  is  governed  by  a  rector,  assisted  by  a  lady  superin- 
tendent, 10  masters,  2  mistresses,  etc.  Besides  this 
academy,  the  burgh  school-board  has  under  its  control 
eleven  public  schools,  upwards  of  £50,000  having  been 
spent  in  the  erection  of  new  schools,  in  addition  to 
those  taken  over  by  the  board  under  the  Act.  The 
other  schools  in  the  town  embrace  a  number  of  ladies' 
and  other  '  adventure '  schools,  Fairrie's  Trust  school  in 
Ann  Street,  a  school  maintained  by  the  Episcopalian 
church  in  Crescent  Street,  and  a  charity  school  in  Ann 
Street.  There  are  also  two  schools  erected  and  main- 
tained by  the  Roman  Catholic  Church.  The  foundation- 
stone  of  the  St  Lawrence  school  was  laid  with  much 
ceremony  by  Monsignore  Eyre,  Archbishop  of  Glasgow, 
on  10  Aug.  (St  Lawrence's  Day)  ISSO,  and  the  school 
was  opened  by  him  on  1  May  of  the  following  year. 
There  is  a  school  of  navigation  and  engineering,  to 
afford  scientific  training  to  the  seafaring  men,  of  whom 
the  burgh  is  so  productive. 

There  are  in  the  town  an  industrial  school,  a  night 
asylum  for  poor  persons,  a  philharmonic  society,  a 
medical  and  chirurgical  association,  a  horticultural 
society,  an  agricultural  society,  and  a  society  for  pro- 
moting Christian  knowledge.  Letterpress  printing  was 
established  here  in  1765  by  Mr  MacAlpine,  who  was 
also  the  iii'st  bookseller.  It  was  confined  to  handbills, 
jobbing,  etc.,  till  1810,  when  the  fu'st  book  was  printed 
by  William  Scott.  In  1821,  Mr  John  Mennons  began 
the  printing  of  books  ;  and  many  accurate  and  elegant 
specimens  of  typography,  original  and  selected,  have 
issued  from  his  press.  The  Greenock  Advertiser,  origin- 
ally published  twice  a  week,  and  now  a  daily  afternoon 
paper,  has  existed  since  1802  ;  the  Greenock  Herald, 
established  in  1852,  is  issued  on  Saturday  at  a  penny  ; 
and  the  Greenock  Telegraph,  established  in  1857,  is  a 
halfpenny  evening  newspaper,  the  first  established  in 
Britain.     All  three  are  Liberal  in  polities. 

Sir  Gabriel  AYood's  Asylum  for  iilariners,  already  re- 
ferred to,  is  an  edifice  in  the  Elizabethan  style,  on  the 
High  Gourock  road,  bej"ond  the  western  outskirts  of  the 
town,  built  in  1851  at  the  cost  of  about  £60,000,  and 
liberally  endowed  for  the  maintenance  of  aged,  infirm, 
and  disabled  seamen  belonging  to  the  counties  bordering 
on  the  Clyde.  This  fine  institution  arose  out  of  a  bec[uest 
of  £80,000  by  Sir  Gabriel  Wood,  who  died  in  London 
in  1845.  The  places  of  worship  in  Greenock,  aggre- 
gately con.sidered,  are  creditable  to  the  town  ;  and  the 
three  of  them  with  steeples  are  appropriate  and  con- 
spicuous. A  beautiful  new  cemetery,  extending  to  90 
acres,  and  already  well  decorated  with  tasteful  monu- 
ments and  other  designs,  has  been  laid  out  in  the 
western  outskirts  of  the  town.  From  its  higher  points 
magnificent  views  are  to  be  had.  It  contains  a  hand- 
some memorial  to  Mr  Robert  Wallace,  M.  P. ,  another, 
■with  bust,  to  Mr  Walter  Baine,  provost  and  M.P.,  and 
other  good  monuments,  notable  among  them  being  one 
in  the  form  of  a  cairn,  to  the  memory  of  Watt,  embrac- 
ing stones  in  marble,  granite,  freestone,  etc.,  sent  from 
many  parts  of  the  world,  and  many  of  them  bearing 
appropriate  inscriptions. 

There  are  in  Greenock  branches  of  the  Bank  of  Scot- 
land, the  Royal  Bank  (two  ofiices),  the  British  Linen 
Co.  Bank,  the  Clydesdale  Bank  (two  offices),  the  Com- 
mercial Bank  (two  offices),  a  Provident  Bank,  and  agencies 
of  the  Money  Order  Bank,  the  National  Bank  of  Scotland, 
and  the  Union  Bank.  The  Greenock  Bank,  founded  in 
1785,  was  in  1843  amalgamated  with  the  Western  Bank 
of  Scotland,  which  failed  in  1857.  The  Renfrewshire 
Bank,  established  in  1812,  continued  to  do  business  for 
30  years,  and  was  sequestrated  in  1842.  The  town 
has  numerous  insurance  agencies,  a  trade  protection 
society,  a  Lloyd's  register,  a  Lloyd's  agent,  a  local 
marine  board,  a  chamber  of  commerce,  a  merchant  sea- 
men's fund,  a  fishery  office,  and  full  staffs  of  officials 
connected  with  the  harbour  and  the  public  revenue.  A 
weekly  market  is  held  on  Friday  ;  and  fairs  are  held  on 
the  first  Thursday  of  July  and  the  third  Tuesday  of 


GREENOCK 

November.  The  Tontine,  an  inn  and  hotel  in  Cathcart 
Street,  is  a  substantial  and  handsome  structure  erected 
in  1801  at  the  expense  of  £10,000.  Nearly  opposite 
are  the  exchange  buildings,  finished  in  1814  at  a  cost 
of  £7000,  and  containing  two  assembly  rooms  and  other 
accommodation.  A  news-room,  coffee-room,  and  ex- 
change was  opened  in  Cathcart  Square  in  1821.  Greenock 
Club  is  a  handsome  building  in  Ardgowan  Square,  part 
of  which  Square  is  occupied  by  the  Ardgowan  Bowling 
Club.  The  gas-works  were  constructed  on  the  glebe  in 
1828,  and  cost  £8731,  but  in  1872  new  gas-works  were 
erected  on  Inchgreen,  at  the  E  of  the  town,  at  a  cost 
of  £150,000.  The  gas  supply  is  in  the  hands  of  the 
corporation,  and  amounted  to  172,800,000  cubic  feet  of 
gas  in  1882.  The  new  poorhouse  and  lunatic  asylum  for 
Greenock  and  the  Lower  Ward  of  Renfrewshire  is  a  large 
and  imposing  building  in  the  Scottish  Baronial  style, 
erected  in  1874-79  on  an  elevated  position  at  Smith- 
ston,  to  the  S  of  to'svn.  They  were  estimated  to  cost 
£50,000,  but  were  only  erected  at  a  cost  of  £100,000. 
The  infirmary  in  Duncan  Street  was  built  in  1809,  and 
enlarged  in  1869.  In  1881  the  number  of  in-patients 
was  1275,  of  out-patients  7571.  The  Craigieknowes 
Hospital  for  smallpox  is  situated  in  Sinclair  Street  above 
the  town  to  the  E,  where  also  provision  is  made  for  a 
cholera  hospital. 

Greenock  is  well  provided  with  places  of  public  re- 
creation. Well  Park  was  presented  to  the  town  in  1851 
by  Sir  Michael  Shaw  Stewart,  who  later,  in  1872,  gifted 
the  Wellington  Park,  on  the  higher  ground  behind, 
with  cricket,  bowling,  and  play-grounds.  The  summit 
of  the  Whin  Hill,  beyond  the  AVellington  Park,  is  also 
open  as  a  public  park.  In  1879-80,  during  a  depres- 
sion of  trade,  the  burgh  police  board  gave  emplo3'ment 
to  a  large  number  of  men  in  constructing  Lyle  Road, 
now  one  of  the  most  delightful  resorts  of  the  people. 
It  proceeds  over  the  hill  behind  the  Mariners'  Asylum  ; 
and  at  '  Craig's  Top,'  500  feet  above  sea-level,  it  affords 
a  magnificent  view.  The  road  is  2  miles  long,  and 
descends  in  zigzag  fashion  to  its  termination  at  Gourock 
toll  bar.  The  ground  was  gifted  by  Sir  Michael  Shaw 
Stewart,  and  the  cost  of  the  work  was  £17,000. 

From  its  peculiar  formation  the  railway  passenger 
arrangements  of  Greenock  are  unsatisfactory,  the  diffi- 
culty of  the  site  preventing  good  station  accommoda- 
tion from  being  obtained.  The  Glasgow,  Paisley,  and 
Greenock  railway  was  one  of  the  earliest  in  Scotland, 
and  now  forms  part  of  the  Caledonian  system.  (See 
Caledonian  Railway.)  Rising  into  the  town  above 
the  level  of  the  seaward  portion,  the  railway  comes  to 
an  awkward  terminus  in  Cathcart  Street,  the  balks 
against  which  the  trains  run  being  at  the  top  of  a  steep 
stair,  which  forms  the  access  from  the  street.  Cartsdyke 
station  and  Bogston,  on  this  line,  accommodate  the 
most  eastern  portion  of  the  town,  where  the  new  docks 
are  building.  Powers  to  provide  railway  access  to  these 
extensive  docks  have  been  obtained  by  both  the  Cale- 
donian and  the  Glasgow  and  South-Western  railway 
companies.  The  last-named  company  is  proprietor  of  a 
line  on  a  higher  level,  which  brings  passengers  to  Lyne- 
doch  station,  at  the  top  of  Dellingburn  Street,  on  the 
southern  elevated  part  of  the  town,  and  thence  runs 
down  to  Princes  Pier  through  two  tunnels.  From 
Princes  Pier  the  Anchor  line  of  steamers  to  America 
embark  their  passengers,  who  travel  from  Glasgow  by 
special  train  upon  this  line.  A  third  railway  access  to 
Greenock  is  provided  by  the  Wemyss  Bay  connection, 
the  junction  being  at  Upper  Greenock,  where  there  is  a 
passenger  station.  From  the  two  principal  railways 
service  lines  run  down  to  the  various  harbours  and 
basins,  so  that  the  facilities  for  loading  and  unloading 
goods  at  the  port  are  of  a  comprehensive  kind.  The 
Vale  of  Clyde  Tramway  Company  has  a  line  through 
Greenock,  and  extending  to  Gourock  and  Ashton  along 
the  coast  a  distance  of  about  4  miles.  Cars  run  from  the 
E  end  to  Fort  Matilda  through  the  principal  thorough- 
fare every  half  hour,  and  to  Gourock  every  hour. 

The  water  supply  of  Greenock  is  copious  and  excel- 
lent.     The  rainfall  at  the  gauges  at  the  waterworks 

225 


GREENOCK 

shows  great  diversity,  but  in  every  year  the  fall  is  large. 
The  following  is  the  total  rainfall  for  six  years  back  : — 
1875,  63-54  inches;  1876,  62-65;  1877,  88-33;  1878, 
55-16  ;  1879,  57-77  ;  1880,  51-92.  The  Shaws  Water- 
works,  incorporated  as  a  private  company  in  1825,  but 
now,  like  the  other  works,  in  the  hands  of  the  corpora- 
tion, were  opened  in  April  1827.  The  largest  reser- 
voir, called  Loch  Thom,  after  Mr  Robert  Thorn,  the 
engineer,  had  a  depth  of  48  feet  and  a  capacity  of 
284,678,550  cubic  feet,  but  has  now  (1883)  been  raised 
to  56  feet,  giving  an  additional  capacity  of  110,000,000 
cubic  feet.  A  compensation  reservoir  on  the  Gryfe,  built 
(1873)  when  the  waters  of  that  stream  were  impounded 
by  the  Water  Trust,  two  large  reservoirs  on  that  water, 
the  Whinhill  reservoir,  and  thirteen  smaller  reservoirs 
give  a  total  capacity  of  642,379,230  cubic  feet  of  water. 
The  original  intention  of  the  engineer  of  the  Shaws 
Water  Scheme  was  to  bring  an  aqueduct  round  the 
face  of  the  hill  so  that  water  power  might  be  given  off 
to  public  works,  and  this  has  been  steadily  kept  in 
view  in  the  extensions  of  the  water  supply.  There  are 
twenty -five  snch  falls,  varying  in  power  from  21  horse- 
power in  Scott's  sugar  refinery  to  578  horse-power  in 
the  six  falls  connected  with  the  mills  of  Fleming, 
Eeid,  &  Co.  The  falls  have  a  supply  of  1300  cubic  feet 
per  minute,  12  hours  a  day,  310  days  a  year,  and  ground 
to  the  extent  of  2  acres  Scots  goes  with  each  fall,  at  a 
nominal  feu  duty.  The  Shaws  Water  was  acquired  by 
the  corporation  in  1867,  and  while  in  1870  the  domestic 
rate  was  Is.  per  £,  with  2d.  of  a  public  rate,  yielding 
£19,221,  in  1880-81  the  rate  had  fallen  to  8d.  and  IJd. 
per  £,  yielding,  owing  to  the  growth  of  the  town,  a 
revenue  of  £23,400.  An  unhappy  accident  happened, 
in  1835,  in  the  bursting  of  the  dam  of  a  reservoir  built 
in  1796  to  drive  the  machinery  of  the  Cartsburn  Cotton 
Spinning  Company.  In  1815,  at  which  time  the  power 
was  used  to  drive  a  gi-ain  miU,  the  dam  burst,  but  with- 
out serious  results.  The  dam  was  restored  in  1821,  and 
in  1825  the  reservoir  was  taken  over  by  the  Shaws  Water 
Company.  In  November  1835  there  was  an  unusually 
heavy  rainfall  reaching  3^  inches  in  48  hours,  unparal- 
lelled  even  in  Greenock.  About  eleven  at  night  the  dam 
burst,  rushing  down  the  gorge  of  the  Cartsburn  to  the 
town,  and  besides  destroying  much  property,  causing  a 
loss  of  thirty-eight  lives. 

The  post  office  of  Greenock  occupies  a  building  erected 
in  1880  by  the  corporation,  and  let  to  the  Crown  on  a 
thirty  years'  lease  from  1881.  It  stands  in  Wallace 
Square,  an  open  space  adjoining  the  municipal  buildings 
and  town-hall  on  the  W,  and  created  by  clearing  away 
a  number  of  squalid  alleys.  The  square  takes  its  name 
from  Mr  Robert  Wallace  (1773-1855),  who  represented 
the  burgh  from  1833  to  1845,  and  whose  labours  in 
parliament  to  promote  the  penny  post — of  which  he 
almost  disputes  the  parentage  with  Rowland  Hill — are, 
as  already  stated,  commemorated  in  a  fine  monument 
on  a  prominent  point  in  Greenock  cemetery.  There  are 
four  branch  post  oflices,  in  Blackball  Street,  Brougham 
Street,  Roxburgh  Street,  and  Rue  End  Street,  all  of 
them  doing  telegi'aph  as  well  as  the  ordinary  postal 
business.  Telegraph  messages  are  also  received  at 
Princes  Pier  railway  station.  The  National  Telephone 
Company  has  an  '  exchange '  in  Greenock,  and  under  a 
special  licence  from  the  post  office,  a  through  wire  to 
Glasgow  places  a  limited  number  of  subscribers  into 
communication  with  the  large  Telephone  Exchange 
system  in  that  city. 

The  most  distinguished  name  connected  with  Greenock 
is  that  of  James  Watt  (1736-1819),  who  is  comme- 
morated, as  already  seen,  in  many  ways — in  statue, 
monument,  institution,  etc.,  bearing  his  name.  John 
Gait  (1779-1839),  author  of  The  Ayrshire  Legatees,  etc., 
resided  here  from  1790  till  1804,  and  again  from  1832 
till  his  death.  Jean  A  'ams  (1710-65),  who  contests 
with  Mickle  the  authorsliip  of  There's  Nae  Luck  about 
the  House,  was  born  in  the  town ;  and,  as  already 
mentioned,  a  monument  to  Burns's  '  Highland  Mary ' 
stands  in  the  old  churchyard,  commemorating  the 
fact  that  here  she  died  in  1786.  Principal  Caird,  of 
226 


GREENOCK 

the  University  of  Glasgow,  was  born  at  Greenock  in 
1820. 

Till  1751  the  affairs  of  Greenock  continued  to  be 
superintended  by  the  superior,  or  by  a  baron  bailie 
appointed  by  him.  The  commissioners  on  municipal 
corporations  stated  in  their  report,  in  1833,  that  the 
manner  of  electing  the  magistrates  by  signed  lists  was 
much  approved  of  in  the  town.  They  also  reported, 
that  '  the  affairs  of  this  flourishing  town  appear  to  have 
been  managed  with  great  care  and  ability.  The  ex- 
penditure is  economical,  the  remuneration  to  officers 
modcKite,  and  the  accounts  of  the  different  trusts  are 
clear  and  accurate.'  The  municipal  government  and 
jurisdiction  of  the  town  continued  to  be  administered 
under  the  charter  of  1751,  without  any  alteration  or 
enlargement,  until  the  burgh  Reform  Act  of  1833  came 
into  operation.  Under  that  Act,  the  town  council  con- 
sisted of  a  provost,  4  baUies,  a  treasurer,  and  10  coun- 
cillors, for  the  election  of  whom  the  town  was  divided 
into  five  wards.  Four  of  these  returned  3  councillors 
each,  and  one  returned  4,  this  latter  having  a  prepon- 


Seal  of  Greenock. 

derance  of  electors.  By  the  Corporation  and  Police 
Act  of  1881,  the  town  council  now  consists  of  a  provost, 
6  bailies,  a  treasurer,  and  17  councillors,  for  the  election 
of  whom  the  town  is  divided  into  eight  wards,  seven  of 
which  return  3  each,  whilst  the  West  End  ward,  with  a 
preponderance  of  voters,  returns  4.  The  bailie  court  of 
Greenock  has  the  jurisdiction,  both  civil  and  criminal, 
competent  to  a  royal  bui'gh.  In  1881-82  the  corporation 
revenue,  including  all  the  public  trusts,  was  £178,700. 
The  magistrates  and  town  council,  together  with  nine 
persons  elected  by  the  feuars,  householders,  and  rate- 
payers, are  a  board  of  trustees  for  paving,  lighting, 
cleansiug,  and  watching  the  town,  and  for  supplying 
it  with  water.  Previous  to  the  passing  of  the  Reform 
Act  in  1832,  Greenock  had  no  voice  in  the  parliamentary 
representation  ;  but  since  then  it  has  sent  one  member 
to  parliament  (always  a  Liberal).  In  1883  its  parlia- 
mentary constituency  numbered  7405 ;  and  its  municipal, 
under  the  'Greenock  Burgh  Extension  Act,  1882,'  8692. 
Till  1815,  the  sheriff  court  for  the  whole  of  Renfrewshire 
was  held  at  Paisley ;  but  in  that  year  an  additional 
sheriff-substitute,  to  be  resident  at  Greenock,  was  ap- 
pointed ;  and  by  an  act  of  court  promulgated  by  the 
sheriff-depute,  dated  3  May,  it  was  declared  that  the 
district  or  territory  falling  under  the  ordinary  jurisdic- 
tion of  the  court  at  Greenock  should  be  termed  'the 
Lower  Ward, '  and  that  it  should  in  the  meantime  con- 
sist of  the  towns  and  parishes  of  Greenock  and  Port 
Glasgow,  and  the  parish  of  Innerkip.  To  this  ward  the 
parish  of  Kilmalcolm  has  since  been  annexed.  The 
court  houses  occupy  a  fine  building  in  Nelson  Street, 
with  the  prison  in  rear.  A  sheriff  court  is  held  every 
Friday,  a  sheriff  small  debt  court  every  Monday,  and 
a  justice  of  peace  court  every  Thursday.  Annual  value 
of  real  property  (1867)£181,158,  (1871) £271,946,  (1876) 
£3-22,398,  (1880)  £368,269,  (1883)  £400,237.  Pop.  of  the 
burgh  (1696)  13-28,  (1735)  4100,  (1841)  35,921,  (1851) 


GREENOCK.  UPPER 

30,689,  (ISGl)  42,098,  (1871)  57,146,  (1881)  63,902;  of 
burgh  and  suburbs  (1871)  57,821,  (1881)  66,704,  of  whom 
34,249  were  males  and  32,455  females.  Houses  (1881) 
13,091  inhabited,  1022  vacant,  72  building.  See  D. 
Weu-'s  History  of  the  Town  of  Greenock  (Green.  1829) ; 
G.  Williamson's  Memorials  of  James  ?KaM(1856);  and 
Provost  Dugakl  Campbell's  Historical  Sketches  of  the 
Town  and  Harbours  of  Greenock  (2  vols.,  1879-81). 

Greenock,  Upper,  a  station  in  Greenock  parish,  in  the 
southern  outskirts  of  Greenock  town,  Renfrewshire,  on 
the  Greenock  and  Wemyss  Bay  railway,  4  mile  S  by  W 
of  the  Caledonian  station,  and  3  miles  W  of  Port 
Glasgow. 

Greenstone  Point,  the  northernmost  extremity  of 
Eumore  promontory  in  Gairlocli  parish,  NW  Eoss-shire, 
between  Loch  Ewe  and  Greinord  Bay. 

Greeta  Water.     See  Gogo  Water. 

Greigston,  a  mansion  in  Cameron  parish,  E  Fife,  3 
miles  E  of  Ceres.  It  is  the  seat  of  Major  Henry  John 
Cowan-Graham-Bonar  (b.  1825  ;  sue.  1868),  who  holds 
638  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £957  per  annum. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  41,  1857. 

Greinord  or  Gruinard,  a  bay,  an  island,  and  two 
streams  of  NW  Ross-shire.  The  bay,  forming  the 
southern  portion  of  the  outward  reach  of  Loch  Broom, 
to  the  W  of  the  mouth  of  Little  Loch  Broom,  is  flanked 
on  the  E  side  of  its  entrance  by  Stattic  Point,  on  the  W 
by  the  promontory  of  Rumore  ;  and  measures  5J  miles 
across  that  entrance,  and  4|  thence  to  its  southernmost 
recess.  Fringed  with  numerous  picturesque  creeks  anil 
small  headlands,  it  is  screened  by  multitudes  of  rocky 
hillocks,  the  highest  being  Carn  Dearg  an  Droma  (607 
feet)  on  the  E,  and  Meall  nam  Meallan  (478)  on  the  W ; 
its  waters  abound  with  haddock,  cod,  whiting,  and 
shell-fish.  The  island,  within  a  mile  of  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  bay,  has  an  utmost  length  and  breadth  of 
\\\  and  5J  furlongs  ;  attains  an  altitude  of  345  feet ; 
belongs  to  Lochbroom  parish ;  and  had  6  inhabitants 
in  18S1.  Of  the  two  streams,  belonging  both  to  Loch- 
broom parish,  the  Meikle  Greinord  flows  5|  mUes  north- 
north-westward  out  of  Loch  Sheallag  (279  feet)  to  the 
eastern  side  of  Greinord  Bay,  which  at  its  head  receives 
the  Little  Greinord,  running  5|  miles  north-by-eastward 
along  the  Gairloch  border  out  of  Fionn  Loch  (559  feet). 
Both  are  capital  salmon  and  trout  streams.  Greinord 
House,  a  modern  mansion,  stands  at  the  mouth  of  the 
former,  15  miles  NE  of  Poolewe. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  101, 
100,  92,  1881-82. 

Grenand  Castle.     See  Geee^an. 

Grennoch,  Loch,  a  lake  on  the  Minnigaff  or  NW  bor- 
der of  Girthou  parish,  Kirkcudbrightshire,  4  miles  N 
by  W  of  Drumore  station,  and  8|  ENE  of  Newton- 
Stewart.  Lying  680  feet  above  sea-level,  and  extending  2 
mUes  north-by-eastward,  it  has  an  utmost  breadth  of  3 
furlongs,  and  sends  off  a  streamlet  2^  miles  northward 
to  the  Dee.  Its  waters,  containing  char  and  many  small 
trout,  are  preserved.  Round  it  rise  rugged  hills  and 
solitary  moorlands  to  heights  of  from  1300  to  2000 
feet  above  sea-level,  and  at  its  SW  corner  stands  Loch 
Grennoch  Lodge,  a  wooden  shooting-box,  prettily  engirt 
with  rhododendrons.— Ore;.  Sur.,  shs.  4,  8,  1857-63. 

Gress  or  Ghrials,  a  salmon  and  trout  stream  of  Storno- 
way  parish,  Lewis,  Outer  Hebrides,  Ross-shire,  issuing 
from  Loch  Ghriais  (4  x  IJ  fui-1.  ;  350  feet)  in  Barvas 
parish,  and  running  7  miles  south-south-eastward  till  it 
falls  into  Broad  Bay.  At  its  mouth,  9  miles  NNE  of 
Stornoway  town,  stand  Gress  House  and  St  Aula's 
chapel,  the  ruined  walls  of  which  still  remain  ;  and  on 
the  coast  here  are  two  caverns,  of  which  the  larger.  Seal 
Cave,  is  about  220  yards  long,  and  is  beautifully  adorned 
with  stalactites.— Orf?.  Sur.,  sh.  105,  1858. 

Gretna  or  Graitney,  a  Border  village  and  parish  of  SE 
Dumfriesshire.  The  village,  comprising  Gretna  Green 
and  Springfield,  the  latter  J  mile  E  by  N  of  the  former, 
and  near  the  right  bank  of  the  Sark,  by  road  is  9^  miles 
NNW  of  Carlisle,  under  which  it  has  a  post  office,  with 
money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  depart- 
ments ;  whilst,  from  neighbouriug  stations  on  the  Cale- 
donian, the  Glasgow  &  South-Western,  and  a  branch 


GRETNA 

lino  of  the  North  British,  it  is  65  miles  SSE  of  Car- 
stairs,  24J  ESE  of  Dumfries,  and  3i  W  by  S  of  Long- 
to\vn.  Once  a  burgh  of  barony,  with  market  cross  and 
cattle  markets,  this  village  long  was  famous  for  the  cele- 
bration of  runaway  marriages,  whose  sole  formality  was 
the  subscribing  of  a  certificate  by  the  officiating  'priest' 
and  witnesses.  After  the  abolition  of  Fleet  marriages 
by  Lord  Hardwicke's  Act  (1754),  English  persons  wish- 
ing to  marry  secretly  required  to  get  out  of  England,  to 
which  alone  that  Act  had  reference.  Thus  the  practice 
arose  of  posting  to  the  Border  and  crossing  into  Scot- 
land, where  Gretna  Green,  as  the  nearest  and  most  con- 
venient spot,  had  so  early  as  1771  become  '  the  resort 
of  all  amorous  couples  whose  union  the  prudence  of 
parents  or  guardians  prohibits' (Pennant).  The  'priest' 
or  '  blacksmith  '  might  be  any  oue — ferry -man,  toU- 
keeper,  landlord  ;  his  fee  ranged  from  half  a  guinea  to 
£50,  according  to  the  parties'  circumstances ;  and  the 
customary  '  church '  was  the  toll-house  or  the  King's 
Head  inn  till  1826  and  afterwards  Gretna  Hall.  At  the 
toll-house  alone  1300  couples  were  united  mthin  six 
years  ;  and  the  traffic  continued  till,  by  19  and  20  Vict., 
c.  96,  after  1  Dec.  1856  all  irregular  marriages  entered 
into  in  Scotland  were  rendered  invalid  unless  one  of  the 
parties  had  been  residing  in  Scotland  for  twenty-one 
days  before.  At  Gretna,  Thomas,  Lord  Erskine  (1750- 
1823),  Lord  High  Chancellor  of  England,  wedded,  late 
in  life,  his  second  spouse,  Miss  Buck ;  and  here  too  in 
1826  were  married  Edward  Gibbon  Wakefield  and  Ellen 
Turner — a  marriage  that  next  year  brought  the  bride- 
groom and  his  brother  three  years'  imprisonment  for 
abduction,  after  a  celebrated  trial  at  Lancaster.  Pop. 
of  Springfield  (1871)  303,  (1881)  300. 

The  parish,  since  1609  comprising  the  ancient  parishes 
of  Gretna  and  Renpatrick  or  Redkirk,  contains  also 
Rigg  village,  on  the  right  bank  of  Kirtle  Water,  2  miles 
WSW  of  Gretna  Green  and  6  E  of  Annan,  under  which 
it  has  a  post  ofiice.  Bounded  N  by  Half-Morton,  E  and 
SE  by  Cumberland,  S  by  the  upper  waters  of  the  Sol- 
way  Firth,  W  by  Doruock,  and  NW  by  Kirkpatrick- 
Fleming,  it  has  a  varying  length  from  E  to  W  of  IJ 
and  4|  miles,  a  varying  breadth  from  N  to  S  of  If 
and  4  miles,  and  an  area  of  9089  J  acres,  of  which  1075^ 
are  foreshore  and  150|  water.  The  Sark  winds  4| 
miles  south-south-westward  along  all  the  Cumberland 
border,  and  Kirtle  Water  2J  miles  across  the  interior, 
both  to  the  Solwat  Firth,  which  here  is  from  7i  fur- 
longs to  3;^  miles  broad,  but  which  at  low  water  is  all 
an  expanse  of  sand,  except  for  the  Esk's  and  Eden's 
narrow  channels.  The  shore-line,  4  miles  in  extent,  is 
low,  rising  to  only  25  and  35  feet  at  Redkirk  and  Tor- 
duff  Points.  Inland,  the  SW  portion  of  the  parish,  to 
the  right  of  Kirtle  Water,  is  almost  a  dead  level,  its 
highest  point  68  feet;  the  NE  portion  ascends — but  very 
gradually — to  105  feet  at  Floshend,  130  near  Boghead, 
156  near  Goldieslea,  and  200  near  Cowgarth  Flow. 
These  upper  grounds  command  a  glorious  view  of  the 
Firth  and  the  mountains  of  Annandale,  Eskdale,  Lid- 
desdale,  and  Cumberland.  The  predominant  rock  is 
Old  Red  sandstone  ;  and  the  soil  on  a  strip  of  the  sea- 
board is  a  fine  rich  loam,  in  some  other  parts  is  wet  and 
clayey,  but  mostly  is  dry  and  sandy,  mixed  with  stones, 
and  fertile.  About  300  acres  are  pastoral  or  waste ; 
some  60  are  under  wood  ;  and  all  the  rest  of  the  land  is 
either  regularly  or  occasionally  in  tillage.  Remains  of 
an  ancient  Caledonian  stone  circle  stood,  till  the  latter 
part  of  last  century,  on  the  farm  of  Gretna  Mains ;  of 
Stonehouse  Tower  and  other  old  Border  fortalices,  with 
massive  walls,  the  site  can  be  barely  identified.  The 
entire  parish,  lying  as  it  did  on  the  frontier  of  Scotland, 
contiguous  to  the  Debatable  Lands  between  the  Sark 
and  the  Esk,  was  long  the  scene  of  almost  incessant 
forays  ;  and  it  continued,  down  to  the  latter  part  of  last 
century,  to  be  the  retreat  of  numerous  bands  of  desperate 
and  incorrigible  smugglers.  Six  proprietors  hold  each 
an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  8  of  from  £20  to 
£50.  Gretna  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Annan  and  synod 
of  Dumfries  ;  the  living  is  worth  £371.  The  parish 
church,  at  Gretna  Green,  was  built  in  1790,  and  con- 

227 


GRETNA  GREEN 

tains  1000  sittings.  At  Rigg  there  is  also  a  U.P.  church 
(1832  ;  367  sittings) ;  and  two  public  schools,  Gretna 
and  Mount  Pleasant,  with  respective  accommodation 
for  141  and  160  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attend- 
ance of  96  and  68,  and  grants  of  £78,  Is.  and  £55,  7s. 
Valuation  (1843)  £6068,  15s.,  (1883)  £10,364,  16s.  3d. 
Pop.  (1801)  1765,  (1831)  1909,  (1861)  1620,  (1871)  1395, 
(1881)  1212.— Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  6,  10,  1863-64.  See  P.  0. 
Hutchinson's  Chronicles  of  Gretna  Oreen  (2  vols.,  Lond., 
1844). 

Gretna  Green.     See  Gretna. 

Greyfriars.  See  Edinburgh,  Glasgow,  Ayr,  Dum- 
fries, Elgin,  Stirling,  Perth,  and  St  Andrews. 

Greyhope,  a  small  bay  in  Nigg  parish,  NE  Kincardine- 
shire, between  Nigg  Bay  and  Girdleness  liglithouse. 
The  Greenland  ship,  the  Oscar,  was  wrecked  here  in 
1813,  when  55  lives  were  lost. 

Grey  Mare's  Tail,  a  splendid  waterfall  on  the  north- 
eastern verge  of  Moffat  parish,  NE  Dumfriesshire, 
formed  midway  by  the  Tail  Burn,  which,  running  1% 
mile  south-east-by-southward  out  of  Loch  Skene  (1700 
feet),  falls,  after  a  total  descent  of  920  feet,  into  Moffat 
Water  at  a  point  10  miles  NE  of  Moffat  town  and  IJ 
mile  SE  of  Birkhill  Inn.  Its  volume  is  trivial  in  time 
of  drought,  but  very  considerable  after  heavy  rains  ;  it 
is  so  flanked  and  overhung  by  wild  and  gloomy  scenery 
as  to  possess  imposing  interest  in  its  mere  surroundings ; 
it  rushes  in  one  unbroken  column  over  a  stupendous 
precipice  of  rocks,  with  aggregate  descent  of  350  feet, 
between  lofty,  mural,  rocky  hUls ;  and  whenever  in  con- 
siderable volume,  it  has  the  form  of  a  cataract  lashed  into 
foam  by  obstructions,  and  rendered  of  a  greyish  tint  by 
intermixing  glimpses  of  the  background  of  darlc  rock. 
A  short  distance  below  it  is  a  hollow  space  called  the 
Giant's  Grave  ;  and  a  spot  at  a  high  elevation  on  one  of 
its  sides,  and  reached  by  a  footpath,  overlooks  both  the 
entire  waterfall  itself  and  the  stream  rushing  away  from 
its  foot.  Any  spectator  on  that  spot,  like  the  palmer 
in  Sir  Walter  Scott's  Marmion — 

*  Just  on  the  edge,  straining  his  ken. 
May  view  the  bottom  of  the  den, 
Where  deep,  deep  down,  and  far  within. 
Toils  with  tlie  roclis  the  roaring  linn ; 
Then,  issuing  fortli  one  foamy  wave, 
And  wheeling  round  the  Giaut's  Grave, 
White  as  the  snowy  charger's  tail. 
Drives  down  the  Pass  of  Moffatdale.* 

A  footpath  leads  up  to  the  pool  into  which  the  waterfall 
plunges.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  16,  1864. 

Grey  Mare's  Tail.      See  Closebtjrn. 

Griam  or  Loch  a'  Ghriama,  a  lake  near  the  NAV 
border  of  Lairg  parish,  Sutherland.  It  receives  one 
stream  running  1|  mile  south-south-westward  from  Loch 
Merkland,  and  sends  off  another  3  furlongs  southward 
to  the  head  of  Loch  Shin  ;  and,  lying  304  feet  above 
sea-level,  has  an  utmost  length  and  breadth  of  If  mile  by 
3  furlongs.  Its  trout  run  up  to  3  lbs.,  its  salmo-ferox 
up  to  12.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  108,  1880. 

Gribon,  a  promontory  on  the  W  side  of  Mull  island, 
Argyllshire,  between  Loch-na-Keal  and  Loch  Scridain. 
It  presents  a  front  of  about  7  miles  in  length  to  the 
Atlantic ;  shows  a  rough  rocky  shoie-line  and  a  high 
range  of  cliffs ;  recedes,  in  trap  terraces,  tUl  it  attains 
an  altitude  of  1621  feet  above  sea-level ;  lies  well 
in  view  of  steamers  on  the  passage  from  Staffa  to  lona  ; 
and  is  pierced  by  a  remarkable  cavern  called  Mac- 
kinnon's  Cave,  and  separately  noticed. 

Gribton,  an  estate,  ^vith  a  mansion  in  the  Baronial 
style,  in  Holywood  parish,  Dumfriesshire,  on  the  left 
bank  of  Cairn  Water,  5  miles  NW  of  Dumfries.  Its 
owner,  Francis  Maxwell,  Esq.  (b.  1825 ;  sue.  1864), 
holds  619  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1288  per  annum. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  9,  1863. 

Grieff.    See  Gryfe. 

Grimersta,  a  salmon  streamlet  of  Lochs  parish,  on  the 
W  side  of  Lewis,  Outer  Hebrides,  Rossshire,  running 
IJ  mile  north-north-eastward  from  Loch  Eaoghail  an 
Tuim  to  the  head  of  salt-water  Loch  Roag. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  105,  1858. 
228 


GRYFE 

Grimes'  Dyke.    See  Antoninus'  Wall. 

Grimisay,  an  island  of  North  Uist  parish.  Outer 
Hebrides,  Inverness-shire.  Lying  in  the  middle  of  the 
eastern  part  of  the  Sound  between  North  Uist  island 
and  Benbecula,  it  has  an  utmost  length  and  breadth  of 
3  and  IJ  miles,  and  was  formerly  considered  barren  and 
of  trivial  value,  but  has  been  turned  to  good  habitable 
account.  There  are  a  post  ofiice  under  Lochmaddy  and 
a  public  school  (1879),  with  accommodation  for  76 
children.  Pop.  (1841)  269,  (1861)  305,  (1871)  283, 
(1881)  292. 

Grimisay,  a  small  island  of  South  Uist  parish.  Outer 
Hebrides,  Inverness-shire.     Pop.  (1871)  6,  (1881)  28. 

Grim  Ness.    See  Ronaldshay,  South. 

Grimshadar,  a  sea-loch  in  Lochs  parish,  E  side  of 
Lewis,  Outer  Hebrides,  Ross-shire.  It  enters  4^  miles  S 
of  Stornoway,  and  penetrates  the  land  2J  miles  west- 
by-southward,  having  a  varying  width  of  3  furlongs  and 
barely  100  yards.  Near  its  northern  shore  is  a  triangular 
fresh-water  lake  of  the  same  name,  which  measures  2J 
by  1|  furlongs.— 0)-cZ.  Sur.,  sh.  105,  1858. 

Gritmoor  or  Greatmoor,  a  hill  near  the  meeting-point 
of  Teviothead,  Cavers,  and  Castleton  parishes,  Rox- 
burghshire, 9  miles  S  by  W  of  Hawick.  It  forms  part 
of  the  mountain  chain  of  watershed  between  Teviotdale 
and  Liddesdale,  and  rises  to  an  altitude  of  1964  feet 
above  sea-level. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  17,  1864. 

Groceries.    See  Alexandria. 

Grogport,  a  coast  village  in  Saddell  parish,  E  Kintyre, 
Argyllshire,  5  mUes  N  of  Carradale. 

Grove,  The,  a  mansion  on  the  eastern  verge  of  Eirk- 
patrick-Irongray  parish,  Kirkcudbrightshire,  3J  miles 
WNW  of  Dumfries.  Built  about  1840,  after  designs  by 
Rickman,  it  is  an  elegant  and  commodious  edifice,  sur- 
mounted by  a  square  tower,  that  commands  a  fine  view 
of  the  town  and  environs  of  Dumfries.  Its  owner, 
Maxwell  Hyslop  Maxwell,  Esq.  (b.  1818  ;  sue.  1867), 
holds  400  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £578  per  annum. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  9,  1863. 

Grubbit  Law,  a  hill  (1071  feet)  in  Morebattle  parish, 
E  Roxburghshire,  IJ  mile  ESE  of  the  chm-ch. 

Grudie.    See  Durness. 

Gruinard,  Ross-shire.     See  Greinord. 

Gruinnard  or  Gruinart,  a  hamlet  and  a  sea-loch  on 
the  NW  side  of  Islay  island,  Argj'llshire.  The  hamlet 
lies  towards  the  head  of  the  loch,  7  mUes  NW  of  Bridg- 
end, and  has  a  post  ofiice  under  Greenock.  The  loch, 
entering  8  miles  SW  of  Rudha  Mhail  Point,  penetrates 
4J  miles  southward  to  within  3  miles  of  the  upper  part 
of  Loch  Indal,  and  is  dry  over  great  part  of  its  area  at 
low  water.  It  receives  at  its  head  the  Anaharty,  wind- 
ing 7J  miles  south-westward  and  north-by-westward, 
and  depositing  as  much  silt  as  to  maintain  a  bar  across 
the  loch's  mouth ;  and  it  has,  even  at  high  water,  an 
intricate  channel,  yet  serves  as  a  safe  haven  for  smaU. 
vessels.  A  strong  party  of  the  Macleans  of  Mull, 
landing  here  in  1588,  fought  a  sanguinary  skirmish 
^vith  the  Macdonalds  of  Islay. 

Gruna,  a  small  uninhabited  island  in  Fetlar  and 
North  Yell  parish,  Shetland,  IJ  mile  N  of  Fetlar 
island. 

Gruna  Skerries,  a  group  of  small  islands  in  Nesting 
parish,  Shetland.     Pop.  (1861)  17,  (1871)  19,  (1881)  25. 

Gruver,  a  village  in  Lochs  parish,  Lewis,  Outer 
Hebrides,  Ross-shire.  Pop.  (1861)  326,  (1871)  353, 
(1881)  368. 

Gryfe  or  Gryffe  Water,  a  stream  issuing  from  Gryfe 
Reservoir  (2  miles  x  J  mile  ;  530  feet)  of  the  Greenock 
Waterworks,  and  winding  16  miles  east-south-eastward, 
till  it  falls  into  the  Black  Cart  at  Walkinshaw  House,  2 
miles  NNW  of  Paisley.  It  intersectsor  bounds  the  parishes 
of  Greenock,  Kilmalcolm,  Houston,  Kilbarchan,  Erskine, 
Inchinnan,  and  Renfrew  ;  traverses  first  bleak  heathy 
uplands,  and  then  the  broad  Renfrewshire  plain  ;  is  fed  by 
at  least  a  dozen  little  affluents  ;  anU  contains  trout,  with 
a  few  grayling,  its  waters  being  preserved.  Anciently 
it  gave  the  name  of  Strathgryfe  either  to  its  own  proper 
basin  or  to  all  the  territory  now  forming  Renfrewshire. 
Gryffe  Castle,  near  its  left  bank,  J  mile  NNW  of  Bridge 


GUALANN 

of  Weir,  is  a  seat  of  George  Freeland  Barbour,  Esq.  of 
Bonskeid  (b.  1810),  wbo  holds  385  acres  in  Renfrewshire 
and  2700  in  Perthshire,  valued  at  £865  and  £1086  per 
annum.— Oj-(^.  Sur.,  sh.  30,  1866. 

Gualann.    See  Buchanan. 

Gualin  House,  a  shooting-box  at  the  mutual  border 
of  Eddrachillis  and  Durness  parishes,  N"W  Sutherland, 
4i  miles  NE  of  Rhiconicli  and  45  NW  of  Lairg.  It  was 
built  as  a  shelter  for  belated  wayfarers. 

Guard  Bridge,  a  village  in  Leuchars  parish,  NE  Fife, 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  broadening  Eden,  4  miles  WNW 
of  St  Andrews.  It  takes  its  name  from  a  six-arched 
bridge,  buOt  in  the  first  half  of  the  15th  century  by 
Bishop  Henry  Wardlaw  ;  and  it  has  a  post  office  under 
Cupar-Fife,  a  station  on  the  St  Andrews  branch  of  the 
North  British,  brickyards,  and  a  U.P.  mission  church 
(18S2  ;  200  sittings).  Pop.  (1881)  320.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
49,  1865. 

Guay  Station.    See  Dowally. 

Guelt.     See  Gelt. 

Guidie.     See  Goodie. 

Guildtown,  a  village,  with  a  public  school,  in  St 
Martin's  parish,  Perthshire,  6  miles  N  by  E  of  Perth, 
under  which  it  has  a  post  office. 

Guildy,  a  village  in  Monikie  parish,  SE  Forfarshire, 
8  miles  ^W  of  Carnoustie. 

Guinach,  Loch.    See  Gtnao. 

Guirm,  a  lake  in  the  NW  of  Islay  island,  Argyllshire, 
7  miles  WNW  of  Bridgend.  Measuring  1  by  ^  mile, 
and  abounding  in  half-pound  trout,  it  contaius  a  small 
island,  crowned  with  remains  of  a  fortalice  of  the  Mac- 
donalds. 

Guirshadir.    See  Stoknowat. 

Guisachan,  a  large  and  fine  mansion,  with  beautiful 
grounds,  in  Kiltarlity  parish,  Inverness-shire,  near  the 
right  bank  of  the  Amhuinn  Deabhaidh,  a  head-stream 
of  the  Glass,  22  miles  SW  of  Beauly.  It  is  the  seat  of 
Dudley  Coutts  Marjoribanks  (b.  1820),  Liberal  member 
for  Berwick-on-Tweed  1853-68  and  1874-81,  who  in  1866 
was  created  a  Baronet,  and  in  1S81  was  raised  to  the 
peerage  of  the  United  Kingdom  as  Baron  Tweedmouth. 
He  holds  19,186  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1097 
per  annum. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  73,  1878. 

Guisachan  or  Geusachan,  an  early  afSuent  of  the 
river  Dee  in  Crathie  and  Braemar  parish,  SW  Aber- 
deenshire, rising  on  Cairntoul  and  running  4J  miles 
south-eastward,  during  which  course  it  descends  from 
3480  to  1640  feet  above  sea-leyel— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  64, 
1874. 

Guisachan  or  AUt  Ghiusachan,  a  rivulet  in  Ard- 
chattan  parish,  Argyllshire,  running  3  miles  westward 
to  upper  Loch  Etive  at  luverguisachan. 

Gulberwick,  a  village  in  Lerwick  parish,  Shetland, 
3  miles  S  of  the  town.  An  ancient  parish  of  Gulber- 
wick was  annexed  in  1722  to  Lerwick,  having  previously 
been  united  to  Dingwall.  It  contains  either  sites  or 
vestiges  of  several  pre-Reforraation  chapels. 

Gulbia  or  Amhainn  Ghuilbinn,  a  troutful  stream  in 
Kilmonivaig  parish,  S  Inverness-shire.  Issuing  from 
Loch  OssiAN  {S^  miles  x  3  furl.  ;  1269  feet)  near  the 
Perthshire  border,  it  winds  3J  miles  northward  as  the 
Amhainn  Ossian  to  Loch  Gulbin  (7  x  3i  furl. ;  1150  feet), 
on  emerging  from  which  it  continues  6i  miles  northward 
through  a  wild  upland  region,  till  it  falls  into  the  river 
Spean  at  a  point  IJ  mile  WSW  of  the  foot  of  Loch 
Laggan.— Orrf.  Sur.,  shs.  54,  63,  1873. 

GuUane  (anc.  Golyn),  a  village  in  Dirleton  parish,  N 
Haddingtonshire,  J  mile  SE  of  the  head  of  Gullane  Bay, 
and  4  miles  NW  of  Drem  Junction.  The  sandy  links 
around  it,  burrowed  by  hundreds  of  rabbits,  form  an  ex- 
cellent coursing  ground  ;  and  it  has  a  race-horse  training 
establishment,  an  inn,  and  a  public  school.  Its  church, 
St  Andrew's,  given  early  in  the  13th  century  to  Dry- 
burgh  Abbey  by  Sir  William  de  Vaux,  and  made  colle- 
giate by  Sir  Walter  de  Haliburton  in  1446,  is  roofless 
now  and  much  dilapidated.  Imperfect  at  both  ex- 
tremities, it  comprised  a  nave  and  an  apsidal  chancel, 
71  and  20  feet  long,  which  retain  a  zigzagged  chancel 
arch  of  advanced  Norman  character,  and  a  broad  trigonal 


GUTHKIE 

string-course  ou  the  outer  N  wall  of  the  nave  and  the  S 
side  of  the  chancel.  The  ruins  are  figured  in  Grose's 
Antiquities  (1789),  and  described  in  T.  S.  Muir's  Notices 
ofAiicicnt  dmrches  in  Scotland  (1848).  Till  1612  Gul- 
lane gave  name  to  the  parish  of  Dirleton. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  33,  1863. 

Gullane  Point,  a  low  basaltic  headland  in  Dirleton 
parish,  Haddingtonshire,  H  mile  W  by  N  of  Gullane 
village  and  lOJ  miles  S  of  Kincraig  Point,  near  Earls- 
ferry,  in  Fife. 

Gull  Eocks.    See  Dun-na-Feulan. 

Gulls.     See  Gows. 

Gunna,  a  small  island  of  Tiree  and  Coll  parish, 
Argyllshire,  in  the  sound  between  Tiree  and  Coll 
islands.  It  measures  1  by  j  mUe,  and  is  low,  pastoral, 
and  uninhabited. 

Gunsgreen,  a  mansion  in  Ayton  parish,  Berwickshire, 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Eye  at  its  mouth,  3J  mOes 
NNE  of  Ayton  village  and  1  mile  E  of  Eyemouth  town. 
It  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  a  wealthy  smuggler,  and 
to  contain  a  number  of  hiding-places.  The  estate — 520 
acres,  of  £852  annual  value — was  purchased  in  1881 
from  Miss  Home  by  Mr  James  Gibson  for  £22,000, 
having  50  years  earlier  been  sold  by  the  Robertsons  for 
£18,000. 

Guthrie,  a  hamlet  and  a  parish  in  the  Sidlaw  district, 
Forfarshire.  The  hamlet  lies,  160  feet  above  sea-level, 
on  the  left  bank  of  Lunan  Water,  J  mile  N  of  Guthrie 
Junction  on  the  Caledonian,  this  being  7  miles  E  of 
Forfar,  7S  NNW  of  Arbroath,  and  SJ  SW  of  Bridge  of 
Dun  Junction ;  and  has  a  post  and  railway  telegraph 
office. 

The  parish  consists  of  two  sections,  north-eastern  and 
south-western,  lying  6  miles  asunder.  The  main  or 
north-eastern  portion,  containing  the  hamlet,  is  bounded 
N  and  E  by  Kinnell  and  a  detached  section  of  Kirkden, 
S  by  the  main  body  of  Kirkden,  SW  by  Rescobie,  and 
W  and  NW  by  Aberlemno.  It  measures  2|  miles  in 
extreme  length  from  E  to  W,  and  2  in  extreme  breadth 
from  N  to  S.  The  south-western  or  Kirkbuddo  divi- 
sion contains  Kirkbuddo  station  on  a  loop-line  of  the 
Caledonian,  15J  miles  NNE  of  Dundee  and  5f  SSE 
of  Forfar.  In  shape  a  triangle  with  southward  apex,  it 
is  bounded  N  by  Dunnichen,  E  by  Carmyllie,  S  by 
Monikie,  and  W  and  NW  by  Inverarity ;  and  has  an 
utmost  length  and  breadth  of  2J  and  IJ  miles.  The 
area  of  the  whole  is  3824  j  acres,  of  which  1424  belong 
to  the  Kirkbuddo  portion.  LuNAN  AVater  flows  3J 
miles  east-by -south  ward  along  all  the  Rescobie  and 
Kirkden  border  of  the  main  body,  which,  towards  its 
western  boundary,  7  fmiongs  NW  of  Guthrie  hamlet, 
attains  494  feet  in  Guthrie  Hill,  a  steepish  round-backed 
mass  of  trap,  declining  towards  the  E.  The  south- 
western division  contains  no  hill,  but  rises  to  601  feet 
near  Bankhead,  and  nowhere  sinks  much  below  500  feet 
above  sea-level,  so  that  the  lowest  ground  in  it  has  as 
high  an  elevation  as  the  summit  of  Guthrie  HUl.  Sand- 
stone is  the  prevailing  rock  ;  and  the  better  soil  is  a 
free  black  loam,  with  clayey  or  gravelly  subsoil.  Over 
200  acres  are  under  wood,  and,  with  the  exception  of  a 
remnant  of  unreclaimed  moor,  all  the  rest  of  the  parish 
is  regularly  or  occasionally  in  tillage.  At  Haerfaulds, 
on  the  north-western  border  of  the  Kirkbuddo  section, 
are  traces  of  a  Roman  camp,  which  extended  over  fully 
15  acres.  Guthrie  Castle,  on  the  Lunan's  left  bank, 
1  mile  NW  of  the  junction,  is  a  stately  old  pile,  with 
massive  waUs  10  feet  thick  and  60  high,  whose  battle- 
ments out-top  a  mass  of  embosoming  wood.  Repaired 
and  enlarged  in  1848  from  designs  by  the  late  Mr 
David  Bryce,  it  was  founded  in  1468  by  Sir  David 
Guthrie  of  Guthrie,  comptroller  of  the  exchequer,  whose 
son.  Sir  Alexander,  fell  at  Flodden  (1513),  and  whose 
present  descendant,  John  Douglas  Maude  Guthrie,  Esq. 
(b.  1856;  sue.  1877),  holds  "3231  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £5027  per  annum.  The  other  mansion,  Kirk- 
buddo House,  is  noticed  separately.  Guthrie  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Arbroath  and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns  ; 
the  living  is  worth  £229.  Its  church,  St  Mary's,  be- 
longed originally  to  Arbroath  Abbey,  but  was  purchased 

229 


GtJVAN 

therefrom  by  Sir  David  Guthrie,  who  refounded  it  in 
1479  as  a  collegiate  establishment  for  a  provost  and  five 
prebendaries.  Kirkbuddo,  anciently  a  separate  parish, 
was  annexed  to  Guthrie  at  the  Reformation.  The 
present  church,  at  the  hamlet,  was  built  in  1826, 
and  contains  306  sittings ;  and  two  public  schools, 
Guthrie  and  Kirkbuddo,  with  respective  accommoda- 
tion for  112  and  91  children,  had  (1881)  an  average 
attendance  of  48  and  55,  and  grants  of  £48,  15s. 
and  £23,  lis.  Valuation  (1857)  £3464  ;  (1882)  £5040, 
7s.  2d.,  plus  £1930  for  railway.  Pop.  (1801)  501, 
(1831)  528,  (1861)  476,  (1871)  404,  (1881)  iZ^.—Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  57,  1868. 

Guvan.    See  Govan. 

Guynd,  The,  an  elegant  mansion  in  Carmyllie  parish, 
SE  Forfarshire,  near  the  left  bank  of  Elliot  Water,  5 
miles  W  by  N  of  Arbroath.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  widow 
of  James  Alexander  Pierson,  Esq.  (1800-73),  who  held 
1486  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £2093  per  annum. 


HAEEIE'S  HOWE 

The  Den  of  Guynd  here  contains  a  pretty  strong  chaly- 
beate spring  and  vestiges  of  an  ancient  camp. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  49,  1865. 

Gylem,  an  ancient  castle  in  Kilmore  and  Kilbride 
parish,  Argyllshire,  on  a  romantic  promontory  in  the 
extreme  S  of  Kerrera  island.  Dating  probably  from  the 
12th  century,  it  was  long  a  stronghold  of  the  Mac- 
do  ugalls  of  Lorn  ;  was  captured  in  1647  by  a  detachment 
of  General  Leslie's  army ;  and  is  now  a  strong,  tall, 
roofless  tower.  The  famous  Brooch  of  Lorn,  rent  from 
King  Robert  Bruce  at  Dairy,  was  in  the  castle  at  the 
time  of  its  capture,  and  became  the  spoil  of  Campbell  of 
Inverawe. 

Gynag  or  Guinach,  a  lake  in  Kingussie  parish,  Inver- 
ness-shire, IJ  mile  NNW  of  the  village.  Lying  1045 
feet  above  sea-level,  and  measuring  4J  by  IJ  furlongs, 
it  contains  an  islet,  with  vestiges  of  what  is  thought  to 
have  been  a  fortalice.  Pike  are  its  only  iish.^ — Ord 
Sur.,  shs.  74,  64,  1877-74. 


H 


HA',  a  mound,   nearly  50  feet  high,  on  Auchin- 
badie  farm,  in  Alvah  parish,  Banffshire,  5  miles 
S  of  Banff.     It  appears  to  be  artificial,  but  it 
neither  figures  in  tradition  nor  has  furnished 
any  relics  of  antiquity. 

Haafgrunie,  an  island  of  Dnst  parish,  Shetland,  1 
mile  S  of  the  southern  extremity  of  Unst  island.  It 
measures  3  miles  in  circumference,  and  is  pastoral  and 
uninhabited. 

Habbie's  Howe,  the  scene  of  Allan  Ramsay's  Gentle 
Shepherd.  This  has  been  contended  by  many  persons 
to  be  a  spot  in  Penicuik  parish  near  the  head  of  Logan 
or  Glencoese  Burn,  lOJ  miles  S  by  W  of  Edinburgh 
and  4  WNW  of  Penicuik  town.  Towards  the  upper 
part  of  a  glen,  a  streamlet  falls,  from  between  two 
stunted  birches,  over  a  precipitous  rock,  20  feet  in 
height,  and  inaccessible  on  either  side  of  the  linn  ;  be- 
neath, the  water  spreads  into  a  little  pool  or  basin.  So 
far  the  scenery  answers  exactly  to  the  description — 

*  Between  twa  birks,  out  o'er  a  little  linn. 
The  water  fa's,  and  maks  a  sing:au  din ; 
A  pool  breast-deep,  beneath  as  clear  as  glasa, 
Kisses,  with  easy  whirls,  the  bord'ring  grass.' 

But  though  there  may  be  one  or  two  other  coincidences 
close  enough  to  satisfy  an  easy  critic,  the  Habbie's  Howe 
of  Glencorse  is  far  from  being  a  place  like  the  Habbie's 
Howe  of  the  pastoral — 

*  WTiere  a'  the  sweets  o'  spring  an'  summer  grow.* 

The  spot  is  bare,  surrounded  with  marshes,  and  it  has 
hardly  a  bush  or  a  shrub,  except  a  solitary  stunted  thorn 
or  rowan-tree,  projecting  from  a  fissure  as  if  dropped 
from  a  rock  by  chance  ;  it  is  adorned  with  not  a  flower 
or  patch  of  lively  verdure,  but  only,  where  the  soil  is 
dry,  with  a  few  tufts  of  whins  ;  and  it  seems  never  to 
have  claimed  connection  with  Ramsay,  and  probably 
never  met  the  gaze  of  his  eye,  or  was  mentioned  in  his 
hearing. 

Tytler_.  the  celebrated  antiquary,  the  restorer  of  Ram- 
say's fame,  and  the  proprietor  of  Woodhouselee  in  Glen- 
corse parish,  had  no  difficulty  in  identifying  all  the 
scenery  of  the  Gentle  Shepherd  with  the  exquisite  land- 
scape in  and  around  the  demesne  of  Newiiall,  lying 
near  the  head  of  the  North  Esk,  partly  mthin  the  parish 
of  Penicuik  in  Midlothian,  and  partly  within  tliat  of 
Linton  in  Peeblesshire,  4J  miles  WSW  of  Penicuik  town. 
'  While  I  passed  my  infancy  at  Newhall, '  says  he  in  his 
edition  of  King  James's  Poems,  'near  Pentland  Hills, 
where  the  scenes  of  this  pastoral  poem  were  laid,  the 
seat  of  Mr  Forbes,  and  the  resort  of  many  of  the  literati 
at  that  time,  I  well  remember  to  have  heard  Ramsay 
recite  as  his  own  production  different  scenes  of  the 
Gentle  Shepherd,  particularly  the  two  first,  before  it  was 
230 


printed.'  Between  the  house  and  the  little  haugh, 
where  the  Esk  and  the  rivulet  from  the  Harbom'  Craig 
meet,  are  some  romantic  grey  crags  at  the  side  of  the 
water,  looking  up  a  turn  in  the  glen,  and  directly  front- 
ing the  south.  Their  crevices  are  filled  with  birches, 
shrubs,  and  copsewood  ;  the  clear  stream  purls  its  way 
past,  within  a  few  yards,  before  it  runs  directly  under 
them  ;  and,  projecting  beyond  their  bases,  they  give 
complete  bield  to  whatever  is  beneath,  and  form  the 
most  inviting  retreat  imaginable — • 

*  Beneath  the  south  side  of  a  craggy  bield. 
Where  crystal  springs  the  halesome  water  yield.' 

Farther  up,  the  glen  widens,  immediately  behind  the 
house,  into  a  considerable  green  or  holm,  with  the 
brawling  burn,  now  more  quiet,  winding  among  pebbles 
in  short  turns  through  it.  At  the  head  of  this  'howm,' 
on  the  edge  of  the  stream,  with  an  aged  thorn  behind 
them,  are  the  ruins  of  an  old  washing-house ;  and  the 
place  was  so  well-calculated  for  the  use  it  had  formerly 
been  applied  to,  that  another  more  convenient  one  was 
afterwards  built  on  the  same  site,  and  is  still  to  be 
seen — 

*  A  flowery  howm  between  twa  verdant  braes. 
Where  lasses  use  to  wash  and  spread  their  claes ; 
A  trotting  burnie  wimpliug  through  the  ground ; 
Its  channel-pebbles  shining  smooth  and  round.' 

Still  higher  up,  agreeable  to  the  description  in  the 
dialogue  of  the  second  scene,  the  hollow  beyond  Mary's 
Bower,  where  the  Esk  divides  it  in  the  middle,  and 
forms  a  linn  or  leap,  is  named  the  Howe  Burn  ;  a  small 
enclosure  above  is  called  the  Braehead  Park ;  and  the 
hollow  below  the  cascade,  with  its  bathing-pool  and 
little  green,  its  birches,  wild  shrubs,  and  variety  of 
natural  flowers  in  summer,  its  rocks  and  the  whole  of 
its  romantic  and  rural  scenery,  coincides  exactly  with 
the  description  of  Habbie's  Howe.  Farther  up  still, 
the  grounds  beyond  the  Howe  Burn,  to  the  westward, 
called  Carlops — a  contraction  for  Carline's  Loup — were 
supposed  once  to  have  been  the  residence  of  a  carline  or 
witch,  who  lived  in  a  dell  at  the  foot  of  the  Carlops 
Hill,  near  a  pass  between  two  conical  rocks,  from  the 
opposite  points  of  which  she  was  often  observed  at  night 
bounding  and  frisking  on  her  broom  across  the  entrance. 
Not  far  from  this,  on  a  height  to  the  E,  stood  a  very 
ancient  half-withered  solitary  ash-tree,  near  the  old 
mansion-house  of  Carlops,  overhanging  a  well,  with  not 
another  of  thirty  years'  standing  in  sight  of  it ;  and 
from  the  open  grounds  to  the  S,  both  it  and  the  glen, 
with  the  village  and  some  decayed  cottages  in  it  and 
the  Carline's  Loup  at  its  mouth,  are  seen.  Ramsay 
may  not  have  observed  or  referred  to  this  tree  ;  but  it  is 
a  cm'ious  circumstance  that  it  should  be  there,  and  so 


HABCHESTEB 

situated  as  to  complete  tlie  resemblance  to  the  sceno, 
which  seems  to  have  been  taken  from  the  place — 

'  The  open  field ;— a  cottage  in  a  glen, 
An  auld  wife  spinning  at  tlie  sunny  end; — 
At  a  small  distance,  by  a  blasted  tree, 
With  faulded  arms,  and  half-raised  look  ye  see, 
Eauldy  his  lane.' 

See  also  Eokford  ;  and  the  editions  of  Allan  Ramsay's 
Poems  by  George  Chalmers  and  Lord  AVoodhouselee 
(Ediub.  1848),  and  by  Alex.  Gardner  (Paisley,  1877). 

Habchester,  a  hill  (712  feet)  on  the  mutual  border  of 
Ayton,  Mordington,  and  Foulden  parishes,  Berwick- 
shire, IJ  mile  SSE  of  Ayton  station.  It  is  crowned 
with  very  distinct  vestiges  of  a  singular  Danish  camp. 

Habrahelia,  a  cavern  in  Mull  Head,  at  the  northern 
extremity  of  Papa-Westray  island,  Orkney.  With  a 
■width  of  from  48  to  60  feet,  it  rises,  in  a  manner  re- 
sembling an  archway,  to  a  height  of  over  70  feet ;  is 
formed,  on  the  sides,  by  successive  projecting  strata, 
with  a  regularity  similar  to  that  of  a  stair ;  and  has  a 
smooth  even  floor,  slightly  ascending  from  the  entrance 
inward. 

Hackness,  a  headland  at  the  southern  extremity  of 
Shapinshay  island,  Orkney,  flanking  the  N  side  of  the 
eastern  entrance  of  String  Sound. 

Hadden,  an  ancient  village,  now  reduced  to  a  single 
farmhouse,  in  Sprouston  parish,  NE  Piosburghshire,  7 
furlongs  E  of  the  English  Border,  5  furlongs  SSW  of 
Carham  station,  and  5  miles  ENE  of  Kelso.  In  olden 
days  it  was  a  frequent  meeting-place  of  Scottish  and 
English  commissioners,  to  adjust  boundaries  and  to 
settle  disputes.  Hadden  Rig,  a  ridge  of  elevated  land 
that  runs  through  the  middle  of  the  parish,  and  culmi- 
nates at  an  altitude  of  541  feet,  was  the  scene  in  1540 
of  the  defeat  of  3000  mounted  English  troops  by  a 
Scotch  foice.—Ord.  S%ir.,  sh.  26,  1864. 

Haddington,  a  royal  and  parliamentary  burgh  and  a 
parish  of  Haddingtonshire,  is  said  to  derive  its  name 
from  the  Gaelic  hofdingia-tun,  or  in  more  modern  form 
heuedinge-town,  meaning  '  princes '  town  ;  whUe  earlier 
etymologists  derive  it  from  the  name  of  Haden,  a  Saxon 
chief,  who  is  related  to  have  settled  on  the  banks  of  the 
Tyne.  Lying  150  feet  above  sea-level,  the  town  occupies 
a  pleasant  situation,  almost  in  the  centre  of  the  county, 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  Tyne,  which  here  makes  a 
semicircular  sweep  ;  and  it  is  overlooked  by  the  Garle- 
TON  HiUs  (590  feet)  li  mile  to  the  N.  By  road  it  is 
17  mUes  E  of  Edinburgh  and  11  WSW  of  Dunbar ; 
whilst,  as  terminus  of  a  branch  line  of  the  North  British, 
it  is  4  j  miles  ESE  of  Longniddry  Junction,  this  being 
13J  miles  E  by  N  of  Edinburgh  aud  44  WSW  of  Ber- 
wick-upon-Tweed. Though  still  a  comparatively  small 
place,  and  though  for  a  long  period  of  a  somewhat  mean 
appearance,  it  now  is  one  of  the  neatest  and  cleanest  towns 
of  Scotland,  with  spacious  and  straight  main  thorough- 
fares, containing  an  abundant  array  of  shops,  and  with 
good,  sometimes  even  handsome,  edifices,  among  which  a 
few  curious  ancient  houses  still  remain.  Haddington 
comprises  three  principal  streets,  respectively  600,  330, 
and  700  yards  long,  and  various  minor  thoroughfares 
connecting  those  with  each  other  and  with  the  outlying 
parts  of  the  town.  Across  the  river  to  the  E  lies  the 
ancient  barony  of  Nungate,  now  included  in  the  burgh 
of  Haddington,  and  chiefly  inhabited  by  the  poorer 
classes ;  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  High  Street  is  the 
suburb  of  GaUow  Green  ;  and  the  outskirts  of  the  town 
are  adorned  with  pleasant  villas.  The  rich  agricultural 
landscape  sm'rounding  Haddington,  and  the  graceful 
curve  made  by  the  Tyne,  which  here  first  begins  to 
assume  the  dimensions  of  a  river,  render  the  situation 
and  appearance  of  the  local  capital  very  pleasing.  The 
Tyne  is  spanned  at  Haddington  by  four  bridges.  The 
Abbey  Bridge,  a  structure  of  3  arches,  dating  from 
mediteval  times,  spans  the  river  1  mUe  E  of  the  town 
near  the  site  of  the  old  abbey ;  and  the  Nungate  Bridge, 
also  an  ancient  erection,  has  3  arches  over  the  river, 
and  2  smaller  ones  across  Giff'ordgate.  The  Waterloo 
Bridge  was  built  in  1817,  and  spans  the  Tyne  to  the 
S  of  the  town.     Stevenson  Bridge,  a  useful  iron  foot- 


HADDINGTON 

bridge,  crosses  the  Tyne  at  the  W  end  of  the  Haugh. 
The  river,  though  adding  much  to  the  beauty  and  com- 
fort of  Haddington,  has  at  various  dates  occasioned 
great  damage  in  times  of  flood.  In  1358  the  convent 
(mentioned  below)  was  on  the  point  of  being  swept 
away  by  one  of  those  inundations  ;  but,  according  to 
legend,  was  preserved  by  the  courageous  conduct  of 
one  of  the  nuns,  who  seized  an  image  of  the  Virgin 
Mary  and  threatened  to  throw  it  into  the  flood,  unless 
the  impending  destruction  was  averted.  A  tablet 
erected  in  the  town  commemorates  a  great  flood  that 
took  place  on  4  Oct.  1775,  when  the  river  rose  17  feet 
in  one  hour.  'Thanks  be  to  God,'  concludes  the  Latin 
inscription,  '  that  it  was  not  in  the  night-time,  for  no 
one  perished.'  At  the  W  end  of  the  town  stand  the 
County  Buildings,  erected  in  1833  from  a  design  by 
Mr  Burn  of  Edinburgh  at  a  cost  of  £5500.  They  are 
in  the  Tudor  style  of  architecture,  and  are  built  chiefly 
of  stone  procured  near  the  town,  though  the  fagade  is 
constructed  of  polished  stone  from  Fife.  They  contain 
the  sherifi'  and  justice  of  peace  court  rooms,  and  the 
various  county  ofiices,  including  the  county  jaU.  Im- 
mediately to  the  E  stands  the  Corn  Exchange,  erected 
in  1854  at  a  cost  of  upwards  of  £2400  after  designs  by 
Mr  BUlings.  This  spacious  edifice,  said  to  be  exceeded 
in  size  among  buildings  of  its  class  in  Scotland  only  by  the 
Corn  Exchange  in  Edinburgh,  measiu'cs  within  walls  128 
feet  in  length  and  50  in  breadth.  Its  front  elevation, 
though  somewhat  plain,  is  massive  and  not  inelegant. 
The  Town  Buildings,  situated  at  the  junction  of  High 
Street  and  Back  Street,  were  erected  in  1748  from  a 
plan  of  William  Adam,  the  celebrated  architect.  They 
were  enlarged  in  1830-31  by  the  addition  of  three 
cells,  a  spacious  town -hall,  and  an  ornamental  spire 
150  feet  high,  from  designs  by  Mr  Gillespie  Graham. 
They  contain  the  town-councU  room,  the  assembly  room, 
and  the  free  town  library.  In  Hardgate  Street  is  situated 
Bothwell  Castle,  an  old  town  house  of  the  Earls  of  Both- 
well.  Near  the  town  stands  the  County  Lunatic  Asylum, 
a  handsome  building  opened  in  1866.  In  the  vicinity  of 
the  railway  a  monument  to  Robert  Ferguson  of  Raith, 
M.P.  for  Haddingtonshire  from  1835  to  1837,  was  raised 
in  1843  at  a  cost  of  £650.  It  consists  of  a  statue  sur- 
mounting a  Doric  fluted  column,  whose  base  is  adorned 
with  four  life-size  figures  of  mourners.  In  1880,  at  a 
cost  of  over  £1000,  a  memorial  was  erected  to  George, 
eighth  Marquis  of  Tweeddale  (1787-1876).  Designed  by 
Mr  Rhind  of  Edinburgh,  it  is  a  reproduction  of  the 
beautiful  old  Elizabethan  well  at  Pinkie  House,  and 
consists  of  an  arch  with  a  marble  bust  of  the  Marquis, 
surmounted  by  an  elaborate  open  crown,  the  height  of 
whose  finial  is  25  feet.  In  1880,  too,  a  new  cross  10 
feet  high,  resting  on  three  steps,  and  bearing  the  Had- 
dington arms,  was  presented  to  the  burgh  by  Messrs 
Bernard. 

The  chief  ecclesiastical  edifice  in  Haddington  is  the 
Abbey  (parish)  church.  Of  dark  red  sandstone,  this 
building  dates  from  about  the  12th  or  13th  century, 
and  it  stands  in  an  open  area  to  the  SE  of  the  town, 
close  beside  the  river.  The  choir  and  transepts  are 
in  a  ruinous  condition  ;  but  the  square  tower,  90  feet 
high,  is  still  entire,  and  the  aisled,  five-bayed  nave  or 
western  part  of  the  cross  is  used  as  the  parish  church, 
having  been  fitted  up  in  a  superior  manner  in  1811  with 
1283  sittings  at  a  cost  of  £6000.  Originally  a  cruci- 
form edifice  in  the  Decorated  stj'le,  with  earlier  Transi- 
tion and  even  Norman  features,  the  Abbey  church 
measured  from  E  to  AV  210  feet,  and  from  N  to  S,  across 
the  transepts,  110  feet.  The  breadth  of  the  nave  was  62 
feet.  It  long  has  borne  the  title  Lucerna  Laudonice,  or 
Lamp  of  Lothian,  though  that  name  seems  originally  to 
have  belonged  to  the  now  vanished  church  of  the 
Franciscan  monastery,  on  account  both  of  its  beauty  and 
of  the  distance  at  which  its  lights  were  visible.  In  the 
aisle  is  the  splendid  monument  of  the  Lauderdale  family. 
The  living  is  worth  £799,  13s.  4d.  The  other  churches 
of  Haddington  include  three  other  Established  churches, 
among  which  St  John's  chapel  of  ease  is  a  neat  Gothic 
building,  erected  in  1838  at  a  cost  of  £1600  ;  it  contains 

231 


HADDINGTON 

872  sittings.  Tiiere  are  also  one  Free  church  (St  John's), 
with  862  sittings ;  two  United  Presbyterian  churches, 
the  East  and  the  West,  with  respectively  549  and  450 
sittings ;  a  plain  Gothic  Episcopalian  chapel  of  1770, 
dedicated  to  the  Holy  Trinity,  renovated  in  1843,  and 
seated  for  200  ;  and  St  Mary's  Roman  Catholic  church, 
built  in  1862,  and  seated  for  500.  In  Nungate  there 
is  a  ruined  chapel  dedicated  to  St  Martin.  A  handsome 
new  building,  known  as  the  Knox  Memorial  Institute, 
and  bearing  a  life-size  statue  of  the  great  Iconoclast  on 
its  tower,  which  is  14  feet  square  and  80  high,  was 
erected  in  1878-80  at  a  cost  of  £10,000.  It  comprises, 
besides  the  school,  a  lecture  room  to  hold  400.  The 
old  and  once  famous  grammar  school  of  Haddington  is 
included  in  the  institute,  whose  endowment  of  £112  has 
been  largely  increased  by  recent  subscriptions,  over  £1000 
having  been  subscribed  for  bursaries.  The  primary  and 
a  Roman  Catholic  school,  with  respective  accommodation 
for  400  and  126  children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attend- 
ance of  248  and  74,  and  grants  of  £164, 18s.  and  £63,  Us. 
There  are  also  a  private  English  and  classical  school 
for  boys,  a  young  ladies'  boarding  school,  a  girls'  day 
school,  an  infant  school,  and  an  industrial  school.  The 
former  mathematical  school,  where  Edward  Irving  was 
teacher  in  1810-12,  was  incorporated  with  the  grammar 
school.  Among  other  means  of  culture  are  a  law 
library,  a  town  and  county  library,  and  a  free  public 
town  library,  originating  in  a  bequest  of  books  about 
1717  by  the  Kev.  John  Gray  of  Aberlady  ;*  and  it  should 
be  mentioned  that  Haddington  was  the  headquarters 
of  the  itinerating  libraries,  organised  in  1817  for  the 
good  of  the  people  of  East  Lothian  by  the  philanthropic 
Samuel  Brown.  Amongst  the  various  associations  that 
have  their  seats  or  headquarters  at  Haddington  are  the 
United  East  Lothian  Agricultural  Society,  the  East 
Lothian  Agricultural  Club,  clubs  for  curling,  golf,  and 
bowling,  a  total  abstinence  society,  lodges  of  Good  Tem- 
plars, Freemasons,  Oddfellows,  and  Free  Gardeners, 
the  East  Lothian  and  the  Haddington  horticultural 
societies,  a  naturalists'  club,  an  ornithological  society,  a 
benefit  society,  a  female  society  for  the  relief  of  the 
poor,  and  a  rifle  association.  It  is  also  the  headquar- 
ters of  the  1st  Haddington  Rifle  Volunteers.  Two 
weekly  papers — The  Haddingtonshire  Advertiser  (1880) 
and  The  Haddingtonshire  Cozjrier  (1859) — are  published 
in  the  town  on  Friday.  There  are  branch  ofiices  of  the 
Bank  of  Scotland,  British  Linen  Company's  Bank,  the 
Commercial  Bank  of  Scotland,  and  the  Royal  Bank, 
besides  a  savings'  bank ;  and  21  insurance  companies 
are  represented  in  Haddington  by  agents  or  offices. 

The  drainage  and  the  water  supply  are  now  excellent. 
Till  1874  the  town  depended  for  its  water  upon  local 
■n-ells  ;  but  in  Oct.  1874  it  acquired  a  supply  of  more 
than  100,000  gallons  per  day  of  pure  spring  water  from 
works  constructed,  at  a  cost  of  about  £5000,  on  the 
Earl  of  Wemyss's  estate,  at  a  distance  of  4J  miles. 

Haddington  can  now  boast  of  no  great  manufacturing 
industry,  though  it  does  a  large  amount  of  retail  trade 
in  supplying  the  surrounding  disti'ict,  and  though  a 
vast  amount  of  agricultural  produce  changes  hands  at 
its  weekly  markets.  A  woollen  manufacture  on  an 
extensive  scale  was  begun  in  1681  in  the  suburb  of 
Nungate  by  a  company  employing  English  workmen. 
It  purchased  some  of  the  lands  that  had  formerly  be- 
longed to  the  monastery,  erected  fulling-mills,  dye- 
houses,  and  other  premises,  and  gave  the  whole  the 
name  of  Newmills.  The  company  was  exempted  by 
various  Scottish  Acts  of  Parliament  from  certain  taxes, 
and  Colonel  Stanfield,  the  chief  partner,  received  the 
honour  of  knighthood  for  his  exertions ;  but  after  his 
death  the  prosperity  of  his  company  came  to  an  end, 
and  Colonel  Charteris,  purchasing  their  lands,  changed 
the  name  from  Newmills  to  Amisfield,  after  the  ancient 
seat  of  his  forefathers  in  Nithsdale.    In  1750,  and  again 

*  On  occasion  of  an  effort  to  establish  an  adequate  library  in  the 
town,  the  Athenmujn  of  20  Aug.  ISSl  gave  a  list  of  44  of  tlie  rarer 
works  in  this  bequest,  including  three  missals  of  1497,  1510,  and 
1529,  two  black-letter  prayer-books  of  1615  and  1637,  an  Aldine 
Pliny(150S),  an  Elzevir  Martial  (1522),  Beza's  Icones  (15£0),  a  large 
collection  of  Scottish  pamphlets  of  the  17th  century,  etc. 
232 


HADDINGTON 

at  a  later  date,  vigorqus  attempts  were  made  to  revive  the 
manufacture,  but  both  proved  abortive.  The  industrial 
establishments  that  are  now  situated  in  the  town  or  its 
immediate  neighbourhood  include  two  small  woollen 
mills  and  a  waulk  mill,  two  breweries,  two  foundries, 
an  engineering  work,  a  tannery  and  skinnery  in  Nun- 
gate,  two  coach  works,  and  three  agricultural  implement 
factories.  The  chief  commercial  interest,  however,  centres 
in  its  grain  markets,  which  were  the  largest  in  Scotland 
until  the  construction  of  railways  enabled  those  of  Edin- 
burgh to  excel  them.  Markets  are  held  at  Haddington 
in  the  Corn  Exchange  every  Friday.  Oats  are  sold  at  12 
o'clock,  barley  at  20  minutes  past  12,  beans  and  peas  at 
15  minutes  to  1,  and  wheat  at  1  o'clock.  A  hiring 
market  for  farm  servants  is  held  at  Haddington  on  the 
first  Friday  in  February  ;  a  cattle  fair  on  the  Friday 
before  GifFord  Tryst  in  March  ;  and  an  Autumn  fair  on 
the  first  Friday  in  October. 

Haddington  is  a  royal  burgh  of  very  ancient  standing, 
and  is  governed  by  a  provost,  3  bailies,  dean  of  guild, 
treasurer,  and  12  councillors ;  who  also  are  commissioners 


Seal  of  Haddington. 

of  police  and  the  local  authority  of  the  burgh.  Prior  to  the 
date  of  the  Burgh  Reform  Act,  the  town  council,  accord- 
ing to  an  act  of  the  Convention  of  Royal  Burghs  in  1665, 
consisted  of  16  merchants'  and  trades'  councillors.  The 
council  nominates  a  baron-bailie  of  Nungate,  another 
of  a  portion  of  Gladsmuir  parish  which  holds  feu  of 
the  burgh,  and  2  Burlaw  bailies,  but  none  of  these 
functionaries  hold  courts.  The  municipal  constituency 
(1883)  is  681,  of  whom  121  are  women.  The  income  of 
the  town  is  derived  from  lands,  houses,  feu-duties,  cus- 
t-oms  and  market  dues,  and  fees  on  the  entry  of  bwgesses. 
It  amounted  in  1831-32  to  £1422 ;  in  1860-61  to  £1173  ; 
and  in  1881-82  to  £1334.  At  one  time  Haddington  was 
the  seat  of  a  circuit  justiciary  court ;  but  it  now  sends 
all  its  justiciary  business  to  Edinburgh.  The  ordinary 
sheriff  court  meets  at  Haddington  every  Thursday  dur- 
ing session  ;  and  a  sheriff  court,  under  the  Debts 
Recovery  and  Small  Debt  Act,  meets  every  alternate 
Thursday.  A  justice  of  peace  court  is  held  on  the 
second  Tuesday  of  every  month,  and  a  court  of  quarter- 
sessions  is  held  on  the  first  Tuesday  of  March,  the  third 
Tuesday  of  April,  the  first  Tuesday  of  August,  and  the 
last  Tuesday  of  October.  The  burgh  and  county  are 
united  for  police  purposes  ;  and  the  burgh  has  also  an 
officer  who  unites  the  functions  of  inspector  of  nuisances, 
sanitary  inspector,  lodging-house  inspector,  and  inspec- 
tor under  the  Explosives  Acts.  In  1880  the  royal  burgh 
was  extended  so  as  to  include  the  whole  of  the  parlia- 
mentarj'  burgh,  which  has  a  constituency  of  566,  and 
unites  with  Dunbar  (455),  Jedburgh  (406),  North  Ber- 
wick (236),  and  Lauder  (143)  in  returning  one  mem- 
ber to  parliament — always  a  Liberal  since  1847.  The 
annual  value  of  property  in  the  burgh,  in  1871,  was 
£13,392  ;  in  1876,  £14,335  ;  and  in  1882-83,  £16,202, 
17s.  Pop.  (1831)  3857,  (1841)  3777,  (1851)  3883, 
(1861)  3897,  (1871)   4007,  (1881)  4043,  of  whom  2079 


HADDINGTON 

were  females.  Houses  (1881)  inhabited  928,  vacant  42, 
building  3. 

Haddington  is  mentioned  as  a  burgh  in  David  I.'s 
confirmation  charter  to  Dunfermline  Abbey  (1130);  and 
Ada,  daughter  of  the  Earl  of  Surrey  and  Warren,  received 
it  in  1139  as  dower  on  her  marriage  with  Prince  Henry, 
David's  son.  On  her  death,  in  1178,  William  the 
Lyon  inherited  it  as  a  royal  demesne  ;  and  here,  in 
1198,  was  born  his  son  Alexander  II.  Under  the  reign 
of  this  last  the  town  seems  first  to  have  felt  the  miseries 
of  war,  for  in  1216  it  was  burned  by  King  John  of 
England  during  his  incursion  into  the  Lothians.  In 
1242  the  Earl  of  Athole  was  assassinated  within  its 
■walls,  in  revenge  for  his  having  overthrown  Walter  de 
Bisset  in  tournament.  Two  years  later  Haddington 
was  again  destroyed  by  the  flames,  on  the  same  night, 
we  are  significantly  told,  as  several  other  Scottish  towns. 
Though  formally  demanded  in  1293  from  John  Baliol  by 
Edward  I.,  it  does  not  seem  to  have  suffered  much  in  the 
wars  of  the  succession.  In  1355-56  Edward  III.  invaded 
Scotland  to  avenge  the  seizure  of  Berwick  by  the  Scots, 
and  Haddington  was  a  third  time  reduced  to  ashes.  In 
1400  Henry  IV.  of  England  entered  Haddington,  but  did 
no  damage ;  and  in  1503  the  Princess  Margaret,  daughter 
of  Henry  VII. ,  spent  one  night  there  on  her  way  to  Edin- 
burgh. But  the  most  famous  event  in  the  history  of 
the  town  is  its  siege.  In  April  1548,  the  year  after  the 
Battle  of  Pinkie,  the  English  seized  Haddington,  forti- 
fied it,  and  left  a  strong  garrison  to  defend  it  under  Sir 
James  Wilford.  The  Scots,  largely  reinforced  by 
foreign  troops,  and  commanded  by  the  French  general, 
Andre  de  Montalembert,  Sieur  D'Ess^,  immediately 
laid  siege  to  the  town.  The  garrison  made  a  long  and 
gallant  resistance,  repulsed  assaults,  and  led  sallies, 
during  one  of  which  Wilford  was  captured.  At  last, 
however,  plague  appeared  among  the  garrison,  and  the 
English  determined  to  evacuate  the  place.  To  prevent 
the  soldiers  and  military  stores  from  falling  into  the 
hands  of  the  besieging  army,  the  Earl  of  Rutland 
marched  into  Scotland  with  6000  men,  entered  Had- 
dington by  night,  and  on  1  Oct.  1559  safely  conducted 
all  the  soldiers  and  artillery  to  Berwick.  No  vestiges 
of  the  fortifications  now  remain.  There  is  a  full  con- 
temporary account  of  the  siege  of  Haddington  in  Jean 
de  Beaugue's  Histoire  de  la  Guerre  d'Escosse. 

In  1598  Haddington  was  again  burned.  The  calamity 
having  been  occasioned  through  the  carelessness  of  a 
maidservant  in  placing  a  screen  covered  with  clothes 
too  near  a  fire-place  during  the  night,  the  magistrates 
enacted  that  a  crier  should  perambulate  the  town  during 
the  winter  evenings,  warning  the  people  to  guard  against 
fire.  The  ceremony  got  the  name  of  'Coal  an'  Can'le,' 
from  the  following  rude  verses  which  the  crier  recited : — 

*  A'  guid  men's  seirants  where'er  ye  be. 
Keep  coal  an'  can'le  for  charitie  ! 
Eaith  in  your  kitchen  an'  your  ha', 
Keep  weel  your  fires  whate'er  befa' ! 
In  bakehouse,  brewhouse,  barn,  and  byre, 
I  warn  ye  a'  keep  weel  your  fire  ! 
For  oftentimes  a  little  spark 
Brin^  mony  hands  to  mickle  wark  ! 
Ye  nourrices  that  hae  bairns  to  keep. 
See  that  ye  fa'  nae  o'er  sound  asleep. 
For  losing  o'  your  guid  renoun. 
An'  banishing  (f  this  barrous  toun 
'Tis  for  your  sakes  that  I  do  cry  : 
Tak'  warning  by  your  neighbours  bye  !  * 

A  privy  council  order  of  10  Nov.  1636,  anent  some 
Egyptians  or  Gipsies,  prisoners  in  Haddington  tolbooth, 
ordained  '  the  men  to  be  hanged,  and  the  women  to  be 
drowned,  and  such  of  the  women  as  have  children  to  be 
scourged  through  the  burgh  and  burned  in  the  cheek. ' 
Beyond  the  visit  from  Oliver  Cromwell  on  30  Aug.  1650, 
already  narrated  under  Dunbar,  the  later  history  of 
Haddington  contains  little  more  of  interest.  The  great 
Reformer,  John  Knox  (1505-72),  was  born  at  Hadding- 
ton ;  and  the  site  of  his  birthplace  in  Giffordgate  is 
marked  by  a  tree  which  was  planted  in  1881  in  accord- 
ance with  one  of  the  last  wishes  of  Thomas  Carlyle. 
(SeeGiFFOED.)  John  Brown  (1722-87),  author  of  the 
Self-Interpreting  Bible,  was  minister  of  the  Secession 
S2 


HADDINGTON 

congregation  from  1751  to  his  death  ;  and  at  Hadding- 
ton were  born  his  son,  the  Rev.  John  Brown  (1754- 
1832),  the  author  of  various  works,  and  his  grandson, 
Samuel  Brown,  M.D.  (1817-57),  an  able  chemist.  Other 
illustrious  natives  were  John  Heriot  (1760-1833),  mis- 
cellaneous writer  and  editor  of  the  S^m  and  True  Briton, 
David  Scott  (1675-1742),  author  of  a  History  of  Scotland, 
Samuel  Smiles  (b.  1816),  author  of  Self  Help,  etc.,  and 
Jane  AVelsh  (1801-66),  whose  tombstone  in  the  abbey 
churchyard  records  how  '  for  forty  years  she  was  the 
true  and  ever-loving  helpmate  of  Thomas  Carlyle,  and, 
by  act  and  word,  unweariedly  forwarded  him,  as  none 
else  could,  in  all  of  worth  that  he  did  or  attempted.' 

Haddington  gives  the  title  of  Earl,  in  the  peerage  of 
Scotland,  to  the  descendants  of  the  Hamiltons  of  Inner- 
wick,  the  remote  kinsmen  of  the  ducal  family  of  Hamil- 
ton. In  1606,  Sir  John  Ramsay,  brother  of  George  Lord 
Ramsay  of  Dalhousie,  and  the  chief  protector  of  James 
VI.  from  the  conspiracy  of  the  Earl  of  Gowrie,  was 
created  Viscount  Haddington  and  Lord  Ramsay  ot 
Barns  ;  in  1615  he  was  raised  to  a  place  among  the 
peers  of  England,  by  the  titles  of  Earl  of  Holderness  and 
Baron  Kingston-upon-Thames  ;  but  dying,  in  1625, 
mthout  issue,  he  left  all  his  honours  to  be  disposed  of 
at  the  royal  will.  In  1627  Thomas  Hamilton  of  Priest- 
field — who  was  eminent  as  a  lawyer,  and  had  become 
Lord-President  of  the  Court  of  Session,  and  Secretary  of 
State,  and  had  been  created  Baron  of  Binning  and  Byres 
in  1613,  and  Earl  of  Melrose  in  1619— obtained  the 
king's  permission  to  change  his  last  and  chief  title  into 
that  of  Earl  of  Haddington.  In  1827,  Thomas,  ninth 
Earl,  while  only  heir-apparent,  was  created  Baron  Mel- 
rose of  Tyninghame  in  the  peerage  of  the  United  King- 
dom ;  and  this  nobleman,  during  the  brief  administration 
of  Sir  Robert  Peel  in  1834-35,  was  Lord-Lieutenant  of 
Ireland.  The  family  seats  are  Tyninghame  House,  2f 
miles  NE  of  East  Linton,  and  MeUerstain  and  Lennel 
House  in  Berwickshire. 

The  parish  of  Haddington  occupies  the  centre  of  Had- 
dingtonshire, and  is  bounded  on  the  N  by  the  parish  of 
Athelstaneford,  on  the  E  by  Prestonkirk  and  Morham, 
on  the  S  by  Yester,  Bolton,  Salton,  and  Gladsmuir,  and 
on  the  W  by  Gladsmuir  and  Aberlady.  Its  form  is  ex- 
ceedingly irregular,  consisting  of  a  main  body  4J  miles 
long  by  3  broad,  with  five  projections  radiating  there- 
from. Its  greatest  length,  from  NN W  to  SSE,  is  8  J  miles ; 
its  greatest  breadth,  at  right  angles  to  its  longer  axis, 
is  7  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  12,113  acres,  of  which  nearly 
50  are  water.  Except  in  the  N  which  is  occupied  by 
the  rounded  summits  of  the  Garleton  Hills,  the  surface 
of  the  parish  presents  a  beautifully  undulating  land- 
scape, covered  with  prosperous  farms  or  dignified  private 
grounds.  The  southern  slopes  of  the  Garleton  Hills  are 
clothed  with  fine  plantations  ;  and  on  the  top  of  Byres 
or  Byrie  Hill,  one  of  the  summits,  stands  a  monu- 
ment, erected  in  1824  to  John,  fourth  Earl  of  Hope- 
toun,  one  of  the  heroes  of  the  Peninsular  War.  It  has 
an  ascent  of  132  steps,  and  is  visible  from  Edinburgh, 
17  miles  distant.  The  river  Tyne  traverses  the  parish 
from  SW  to  NE  in  a  sinuous  course  that  maintains  an 
average  breadth  of  from  50  to  56  feet.  Trap  rock  forms 
the  mass  of  the  Garleton  HiUs,  though  on  the  southern 
slopes  that  is  overlaid  by  calciferous  sandstone  ;  and 
sandstone  of  various  kinds  and  qualities  prevails  in  the 
rest  of  the  parish.  The  soil  towards  the  SW  border  is 
shallow  and  inferior,  but  elsewhere  it  is  good  and  in 
high  cultivation.  About  1250  acres  are  under  wood, 
and  more  than  500  in  pasture  ;  while  the  rest  is  culti- 
vated. Coal  has  been  sought  for  but  not  found.  There 
is  a  weak  chalybeate  spring,  called  Dobson's  Well,  about 
i  mile  W  of  the  burgh.  The  industries  of  the  parish, 
besides  agriculture,  are  restricted  to  the  town  of 
Haddington. 

Besides  the  burgh  of  Haddington  the  parish  contains 
the  hamlets  of  Abbey  and  St  Lawrence.  A  mile  and  a 
quarter  S  of  Haddington  stands  Lennoxlove  House, 
anciently  called  Lethington,  the  seat  of  Lord  Blantyre. 
Part  of  it  dates  from  very  antique  times,  and  was  a  very 
strong    fortalice.      Lethington  was  the  home  of    Sir 

233 


HADDINGTON 

Richard  Maitland  and  of  James  VI. 's  chancellor,  Secre- 
tary Lethington,  and  for  a  long  period  it  was  the  chief 
seat,  of  the  Lauderdale  family.  The  first  park  wall,  12 
feet  high,  enclosing  an  area  of  more  than  1  square 
mile,  is  said  to  have  been  raised  in  six  weeks  by  the 
Duke  of  Lauderdale,  in  order  to  save  his  country  from 
the  reproach  of  the  Duke  of  York,  that  there  was  not  a 
single  deer  park  in  it.  The  other  chief  seats,  all  noticed 
separately,  are  Amisfibld,  Stevenson  House,  Monk- 
bigg,  CoALSTOUN,  Clbrkington,  Letham,  Alderston, 
and  Huntington.  Nine  proprietors  hold  each  an  an- 
nual value  of  £500  and  upwards,  18  of  between  £100 
and  £500,  44  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  91  of 
from  £20  to  £50.  The  North  British  railway  traverses 
one  of  the  projections  of  the  parish,  and  there  is  a  branch 
of  that  railway  to  the  burgh  within  the  parish.  Six 
miles  of  the  great  road  from  Edinburgh  to  the  E  of 
England  lie  within  its  limits,  besides  a  section  of  a  road 
to  North  Berwick,  and  numerous  subordinate  roads. 
Haddington  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Haddington 
and  the  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale.  The  churches 
have  already  been  noticed  above.  The  origin  of  the 
parish  is  difficult  to  trace.  At  the  accession  of  David  I. 
in  1123  it  was  a  clearly  defined  district,  though  both 
then  and  afterwards  of  a  larger  extent  than  now.  Till 
1674  it  comprehended  a  considerable  part  of  Athelstane- 
ford,  and  till  1692  of  Gladsmuir  also.  The  ancient 
church,  dedicated  to  the  Virgin,  was  granted  about  1134 
by  David  I.  to  the  priory  of  St  Andrews,  wliich  held  it 
with  all  its  endowments,  including  the  lands  of  Clerk- 
ington  on  both  sides  of  the  Tyne,  till  the  Reformation. 
Six  chapels  also  were  situated  in  the  parish — those  of  St 
Lawrence,  which  has  given  its  name  to  a  hamlet,  St 
Martin,  St  Catherine,  St  Kentigern,  and  St  John,  and 
one  in  the  barony  of  Penston,  which,  previous  to  the 
erection  of  Gladsmuir  parish,  lay  within  the  limits  of 
Haddington.  At  the  Reformation  the  property  of  all 
these  chapels,  with  that  of  the  church  to  which  they 
were  attached,  belonged  as  part  of  the  immense  posses- 
sions of  the  priory  of  St  Andrews,  to  James  Stewart,  the 
notorious  Earl  of  Moray,  the  bastard  brother  and  the 
minister  of  Mary  of  Scotland.  The  possessions  were 
soon  after  usurped  by  the  Earl  of  Morton,  dming  the 
period  of  his  regency  ;  and  when  he  was  put  to  death 
for  his  participation  in  the  murder  of  Darnley,  they 
were  forfeited  to  the  Crown.  Esme,  Duke  of  Lennox, 
the  cousin  and  favourite  of  James  VI. ,  next  obtained 
them,  as  a  temporal  lordship,  from  the  king.  Later, 
Thomas,  the  first  Earl  of  Haddington,  purchased  the 
Haddington  portion  of  the  lordship — consisting  of  the 
patronage  and  property  and  emoluments  of  the  church 
and  its  chapels — from  Ludovic  the  son  of  Esme ;  and, 
in  1620,  obtained  from  the  king  a  confirmation  of  his 
purchase.  In  the  18th  century  the  patronage  and  pro- 
perty were  transferred,  by  another  purchase,  to  Charles, 
the  first  Earl  of  Hopetoun ;  and  they  have  since  con- 
tinued in  the  possession  of  his  descendants.  From  the 
Reformation  tiU  1602  the  churches  of  Haddington  and 
Athelstaneford  and  the  chapel  of  St  Martin  were  all 
served  by  one  minister  ;  and  not  long  afterwards  St 
Martin's  was  abandoned.  In  1C33  Haddington  church 
was  appointed  one  of  the  twelve  prebends  of  the  chapter 
of  Edinburgh ;  and  in  1635  a  second  minister  was  ap- 
pointed. From  the  12th  or  13th  century  to  the  Re- 
iormation,  Haddington  gave  its  name  to  a  deanery. 
The  parish  also  contained  a  Franciscan  monastery,  dat- 
ing probably  from  the  12th  century.  Edward  I.  is  said 
to  have  destroyed  it,  and  there  are  now  no  vestiges  of 
it  extant,  unless  the  present  church  may  be  held  as 
having  formed  part  of  it.  At  the  village  of  Abbey 
there  stood  a  convent  of  Cistercian  nuns,  founded  in 
1178  by  Ada,  Countess  of  Northiunberland  and  mother 
of  Malcolm  IV.  and  AVilliam  the  Lyon.  It  was  dedicated 
by  her  to  the  Virgin,  and  it  was  endowed  with  extensive 
and  valuable  possessions,  of  which  the  lands  of  Nunside 
or  Nunlands,  now  Huntington,  and  the  church  of 
Athelstaneford  with  its  teinds  were  only  a  part.  In 
1296,  Eva,  the  prioress,  made  submission  to  Edward  I., 
and  obtained  the  restoration  of  her  rights.  James  II. 
234 


HADDINGTONSHIRE 

granted  a  charter  to  the  priory  in  1458,  confirming  one 
previously  obtained  from  the  bishop  of  St  Andrews  in 
1349.  In  1471  the  lairds  of  Yester  and  Makerston 
forcibly  seized  part  of  the  Abbey  lands,  and  the  nuns 
had  to  seek  the  aid  of  parliament  against  them.  In 
1548  the  estates  held  a  parliament  in  the  convent,  at 
which  it  was  resolved  to  send  the  infant  Queen  Mary  to 
France.  At  the  Reformation  the  number  of  nuns  in 
the  convent  was  18  ;  and  its  revenues  amounted  to 
£308,  17s.  6d.,  besides  various  contributions  paid  in 
kind.  The  lands  were  conferred  by  Mary  on  her 
secretary,  William  Maitland  of  Lethington  ;  and  after- 
wards they  were  converted  into  a  temporal  lordship  in 
favour  of  John,  Master  of  Lauderdale.  A  public  school, 
with  accommodation  for  282  children,  had  (1881)  an 
average  attendance  of  278,  and  a  grant  of  £228,  15s.  8d. 
Valuation,  excluding  burgh,  (1872)  £28,061,  4s.,  (1879) 
£25,950,  10s.,  (1883)  £22,888,  6s.  Pop.  of  entire 
parish  (1801)  4049,  (1831)  5883,  (1841)  5452,  (1871) 
5735,  (1881)  5860.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  33,  1863. 

The  Established  presbytery  of  Haddington  comprises 
the  parishes  of  Aherlady,  Athelstaneford,  Bolton,  Dir- 
leton,  Garvald,  Gladsmuir,  Haddington,  Humbie, 
Morham,  North  Berwick,  Ipencaitland,  Prestonpans, 
Salton,  Tranent,  and  Yester,  with  the  chapeMes  of  St 
John's  (Haddington)  and  Cockenzie.  Pop.  (1871) 
25,545,  (1881)  25,742,  of  whom  5718  were  communi- 
cants of  the  Church  of  Scotland  in  1878. — The  Free 
Church  has  also  a  presbytery  of  Haddington  and  Dun- 
bar, with  churches  at  Cockburnspath,  Dirleton,  Dunbar, 
Garvald,  Haddington,  Humbie,  Innerwick,  North  Ber- 
wick, Pencaitland,  Prestonkirk,  Salton  'Tranent,  and 
Yester,  which  14  together  had  2449  members  in  1882. 

See  Dr  Barclay's  'Account  of  the  Parish  of  Had- 
dington' in  Tram.  Sloe.  Ants.  Scott.  (1792);  James 
Miller's  Lamp  of  Lothian,  or  the  History  of  Haddington 
(Had.  1844) ;  an  article  on  p.  926  of  the  Builder  (1878) ; 
the  two  works  cited  under  Ckaigenputtooh  ;  James 
Purves's  '  Tyningtown '  in  Fraser's  Magazine  (March 
1881);  and  the  chapter  on  'A  Typical  Scotch  Town' 
by  Francis  Watt,  in  Picturesque  Scotland  (Loud.  1SS2). 

Haddingtonshire  or  East  Lothian,  a  maritime  county 
in  the  south-east  of  Scotland,  is  situated  between  55° 
46'  10"  and  56°  4'  N  lat.,  and  between  2°  8'  and  2° 
49'  W  long. ,  and  is  bounded  on  the  NAV  and  N  by  the 
Firth  of  Forth,  on  the  NE  and  E  by  the  German  Ocean, 
on  the  SW  and  S  by  Berwickshire,  and  on  the  W  by 
Edinburghshire.  With  the  exception  of  four  small 
streamlets  which  divide  it  towards  the  SW,  NE,  and 
SE  angles  from  Berwickshire  and  Edinburghshire,  and 
the  summit  line  of  the  Lammermuirs,  which  forms 
about  one-half  of  the  march  with  Berwickshire,  the 
county  has,  along  its  SE,  S,  and  W  frontiers,  no  natural 
or  geographical  features  to  mark  its  boundary.  It  has 
a  total  coast-line  of  Slf  miles,  of  which  15J  lie  along 
the  Firth  of  Forth  to  the  AV  of  North  Berwick,  and 
present  a  flat  and  generally  sandy  beach  ;  while  the  16J 
miles  that  extend  along  the  German  Ocean  rise  in 
irregular  and  bold  cliff's.  There  are  harbours  at  Pres- 
tonpans, Cockenzie,  Port  Seton,  North  Berwick,  and 
Dunbar.  The  only  bays  of  any  size  are  Aberlady  Bay, 
a  wide  sandy  flat  at  low  water,  and  Tyninghame  Bay, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Tyne.  Its  land  boundaries  on  the 
S  and  W  extend  respectively  for  16  and  13  miles.  The 
greatest  length  of  Haddingtonshire,  from  E  to  W,  is 
26 1  miles  ;  its  greatest  breadth,  from  N  by  W  to  S  by 
E,  is  19  miles ;  and  its  circumference  is  roughly  about 
SO  miles.  Its  total  area  is  280  square  miles,  or  179,142 
acres,  of  which  173,298  are  land,  5505  foreshore,  and 
1894  water.  A  small  part  of  Humbie  parish  is  quite  de- 
tached from  the  body  of  the  county,  which  includes  also 
the  Bass  Rock. 

Haddingtonshire  has  on  the  whole  a  northern  ex- 
posure, stretching  from  its  highest  point  in  the  S,  where 
the  Lammermuir  Hills  rise,  in  a  gradual  though  not 
unbroken  slope  to  the  seaboard  on  the  N.  The  land  in 
the  higher  region  is  almost  entirely  pasturage,  of  the 
Lowland  Scotch  hill  character,  though  the  skirts  of  the 
hills  are,  to  a  considerable  extent,  brought  under  cultiva- 


HADDINGTONSHIRE 

tion.  About  one-third  of  the  entire  area  of  the  county  is 
occupied  by  this  district,  which  commences  at  the  E  coast 
in  Oldhamstocks  and  Inuerwiclc  parishes,  and  extends 
westwards  across  the  southern  part  of  the  county  to  tlie 
boundary  of  Edinburglishire.  The  average  height  is  not 
great,  and  the  general  aspect  is  not  mountainous  ;  for 
the  Lammermuirs  present  a  series  of  softly  rounded 
hills,  and  their  greatest  elevation  is  attained  in  Lammer 
Law,  which  rises  to  a  height  of  1733  feet  above  sea- 
level.  Other  summits  are  Glints  Dod  (1307  feet), 
Lowrans  Law  (1631),  and  Soutra  Hill  (1209).  The 
northern  plain  between  the  base  of  the  hill  country 
and  the  sea  has  its  surface  interrupted  by  the  Garleton 
Hills  (590  feet)  on  the  ^Y,  by  Gullane  HiU  on  the 
NE  coast,  and  by  the  conspicuously  isolated  cones  of 
North  Berwick  Law  (612  feet)  on  the  N  coast  and 
Traprain  or  Dumpender  Law  (700)  near  the  centre. 
The  county,  owing  to  its  geographical  position  and 
limited  extent,  has  few  streams  of  any  kind,  and  only 
one — the  Tyne — of  any  importance.  This  last,  7  miles 
from  its  source,  crosses  the  Edinburghshire  border,  8 
miles  SW  of  Ormiston,  and  flows  through  Haddington- 
shire to  the  NE  seaboard,  where  it  falls  into  the  Ger- 
man Ocean  at  Tyninghame.  Good  trout,  and  in  some 
places  salmon,  are  caught  in  the  Tyne.  Among  the 
smaller  streams  may  be  mentioned  the  Salton  Water 
and  the  Gilford  Water,  flowing  from  the  uplands  to  the 
Tyne ;  Pefler  Burn,  running  to  the  German  sea,  about  2 
miles  SE  of  Tantallon  Castle  ;  and  the  Belton  Water, 
which  debouches  at  Belhaven,  near  Dunbar.  The  Ber- 
wickshire stream — the  Whitadder — has  its  source  and 
upper  course  for  some  miles  in  East  Lothian.  The  chief 
lakes  are  Presmeunan  and  Danskine  Lochs,  both  of 
small  extent.  The  former  was  artificially  made  in  1819 
by  damming  up  a  ravine  through  which  a  streamlet 
used  to  discharge  its  waters.  Mineral  springs  are  found 
in  the  parishes  of  Spott,  Pencaitland,  Humble,  and  Sal- 
ton,  and  some  of  them  have  had  a  certain  medicinal 
repute. 

Geology. — In  this  county  the  ancient  Silurian  table- 
land is  sharply  defined  from  the  area  occupied  by  the 
younger  paljeozoic  rocks.  The  steep  slope  presented  by 
the  chain  of  the  Lammermuirs  towards  the  NW,  roughly 
coincides  with  the  boundary  line  between  the  Silurian 
and  Old  Red  Sandstone  strata  on  the  one  hand  and  tlie 
members  of  the  Carboniferous  system  on  the  other. 
This  prominent  feature  crosses  the  county  diagonally 
from  Dunbar  to  the  village  of  Fala.  The  smooth-flow- 
ing outline  of  the  Lammermuirs  is  due  to  the  occurrence 
of  thick  masses  of  shales  of  Lower  Silurian  age  which 
are  associated  with  flagstones,  greywackes,  and  grits. 
Possessing  a  persistent  NE  and  SW  strike  in  harmony 
with  the  trend  of  the  chain,  these  strata  have  been 
thrown  into  a  series  of  folds  by  means  of  which  the 
same  beds  are  repeatedly  brought  to  the  surface. 
Beyond  the  county  boundary  at  the  head  of  Lauderdale, 
bands  of  black  shales,  yielding  graptolites  in  profusion, 
rest  in  narrow  synclinal  troughs  of  the  shaly  series. 
One  of  these  bands  is  exposed  on  the  S  slope  of  Lammer 
Law,  near  the  source  of  the  Kelphope  Burn,  which  can 
be  followed  SW  to  the  Headshaw  Burn,  near  Carfrae 
Common  ;  whUe  still  further  to  the  N  another  band  is 
met  with  on  the  Soutra  Hill.  The  Silurian  strata  ex- 
posed in  the  Lammermuirs  are  the  NE  prolongations 
of  the  grey  shales  and  greywackes  which  are  so 
characteristically  developed  in  the  Lowther  range  in  the 
N  of  Dumfriesshire.  In  the  latter  area  there  are 
fewer  intercalations  of  greywackes  and  giits,  but  with 
this  exception  the  general  character  of  the  beds  in  these 
widely  separated  ranges  is  identical. 

Throughout  the  area  occupied  by  these  rocks  numerous 
veins  and  bosses  of  felstone  are  met  with,  which  have 
been  injected  mainly  along  the  lines  of  bedding.  There 
is  one  small  triangular  area,  however,  of  highly 
crystalline  rock,  which  has  attracted  considerable  atten- 
tion among  geologists  on  account  of  the  evidence  which 
it  aff'ords  of  its  metamorphic  origin.  It  is  situated  at 
the  junction  of  the  Fassney  Water  with  the  Whiteadder. 
From  the  description  of  this  mass  given  by  Professor  A. 


HADDINGTONSHIRE 

Geikie,  it  is  apparent  that  a  gradual  passage  can  be 
traced  from  the  unaltered  greywackes  and  shales  into 
the  granitic  rock  of  Priestlaw.  Along  the  margin  of 
the  altered  area,  the  stratified  rocks  are  compact  and  sub- 
crystalline  breaking  with  a  conchoidal  fracture.  These, 
when  followed  towards  the  centre  of  the  area,  merge  into 
felspathic  rocks  with  quartz  granules,  which  are  indis- 
tinguishable from  ordinary  felstones.  The  alteration 
culminates  in  the  felspathic  mass  of  Priestlaw,  which, 
by  the  crystallisation  of  the  felspar  and  quartz,  and  by 
the  addition  of  mica  and  hornblende,  presents  the 
character  of  a  typical  granite. 

Only  the  upper  division  of  the  Old  Red  Sandstone  is 
represented  within  the  county.  As  in  other  districts 
in  Scotland  we  have  here  striking  evidence  of  the  com- 
plete discordance  between  the  members  of  this  division 
and  the  older  rocks.  Prior  to  the  deposition  of  the 
Upper  Old  Red  Sandstone,  the  Lammermuir  chain  had 
undergone  extensive  denudation.  Deep  valleys  had 
been  excavated  in  the  ancient  tableland,  which  were 
subsequently  filled  with  conglomerates  and  sandstones 
belonging  to  this  period.  On  the  S  side  of  the  range  one 
of  these  ancient  valleys  is  represented  by  Lauderdale, 
which,  though  formerly  filled  with  Old  Red  deposits,  has 
been  excavated  anew  by  the  Leader  and  its  tributaries. 
Another  striking  example  occurs  in  the  E  part  of  the 
chain,  where  a  belt  of  conglomerate,  stretching  from 
Dunbar  to  Dirrington  Law,  divides  the  Silurian  rocks 
into  two  separate  areas.  From  the  relations  which  the 
conglomerate  bears  to  the  underlying  rocks,  there  can 
be  little  doubt  that  it  fills  an  old  hollow  which  com- 
pletely traversed  the  Silurian  tableland  from  N  to  S. 
The  belt  of  conglomerate  now  referred  to  forms  the 
largest  area  of  Upper  Old  Red  Sandstone  strata  within 
the  county.  It  has  an  average  breadth  of  4  miles 
between  Dunbar  and  Oldhamstocks,  tapering  off  to  2 
miles  near  the  county  boundary,  and  again  swelling  out 
towards  the  wide  area  occupied  by  this  deposit  in  the 
Berwickshire  plain.  The  conglomerates  along  this  belt 
rest  unconformably  ou  the  Silurian  rocks,  the  pebbles 
being  mainly  composed  of  these  materials.  At  Oldham- 
stocks a  narrow  band  branches  off  from  the  main  mass, 
and  extends  E  by  Cockburnspath  to  the  sea-coast  at 
Siccar  Point,  where  the  complete  unconformability 
between  the  Old  Red  Sandstone  and  Silmian  formations 
is  admirably  displayed.  In  this  latter  area  the  strata 
mainly  consist  of  red  sandstones  and  shales,  the  under- 
lying conglomerate  having  thinned  out  to  small  dimen- 
sions. The  beds  are  inclined  to  the  N  at  angles  vary- 
ing from  10°  to  30°.  Again,  along  the  NW  slopes  of  the 
Lammermuirs  from  Dunbar  to  near  the  village  of  Gifi"ord, 
a  belt  of  red  sandstones  and  marls  can  be  traced,  having 
an  average  breadth  of  about  1  mile.  This  belt  is 
bounded  on  the  N  and  S  by  two  parallel  faults,  both  of 
which  have  a  doivnthrow  to  the  N.  One  of  these  dis- 
locations, that  which  forms  the  S  boundary,  is  of  great 
importance,  as  it  completely  traverses  the  county  from 
the  sea-coast  near  Dunbar  to  the  village  of  Fala.  Be- 
tween Dunbar  and  Giff'ord  it  brings  the  Old  Red  Sand- 
stones and  marls  against  the  Old  Red  conglomerate  and 
Silurian  rocks,  while  beyond  Gifford  towards  Fala  it 
throws  the  members  of  the  Carboniferous  system  against 
the  Old  Red  Sandstone  and  Silurian  formations.  About 
1  mile  to  the  S  of  Giff'ord  and  about  J  mile  S  of  Fala 
church,  there  are  two  small  semicircular  areas  of  Old  Red 
conglomerate  resting  unconformably  on  the  Silurian 
rocks,  and  bounded  on  the  N  by  the  great  fault  just 
described.  Equally  interesting  and  suggestive  is  the 
small  outlier  of  conglomerate  of  this  age,  forming  a  flat 
cake  on  the  crest  of  the  ridge  E  of  Soutra  Hill.  Within 
the  county  no  fossils  have  been  obtained  from  this  for- 
mation, but  at  Siccar  Point  beyond  the  county  boundary 
the  red  sandstones  have  yielded  scales  of  Soloptychius 
and  other  fishes,  which  serve  to  define  the  age  of  the 
beds. 

The  strata  next  in  order  belong  to  the  Calciferous 
Sandstone  series,  but,  strange  to  say,  at  no  point  in 
Haddingtonshire  are  these  beds  seen  in  contact  with  the 
Upper  Old  Red  Sandstones  without  the  intervention  of  a 

235 


EASDINGTONSHIEE 

fault.  But  beyond  the  county  boundary  at  Siccar  Point 
the  perfect  passage  between  the  two  formations  is  well 
seen.  The  members  of  this  series  occupy  the  whole  of 
the  coast-line  between  Cockburnspath  and  Thornton- 
loch,  where  they  pass  below  the  Carboniferous  Lime- 
stone. Near  the  base,  the  sandstones  have  yielded 
Cycadites  Caledonicus,  which,  from  recent  investigations, 
appears  to  be  a  fragment  of  a  Eurypterid.  The  strata 
exposed  along  the  coast-line  consist  of  alternations  of 
sandstones,  shales,  and  thin  limestones,  which,  on  the 
whole,  are  markedly  fossiliferous.  Numerous  land  plants 
have  been  obtained  from  the  shales,  chiefly  Lepidoden- 
dron  (Sageiiaria)  Veltheimianuni,  Sigillaria,  Cydoptcris, 
and  SinhenopUris,  while  the  limestones  contain  abundant 
remains  of  encrinites,  with  Schizodus,  Sanguinolites, 
Area,  Pteronites,  Athyris  amiigua,  etc. 

The  broad  tract  of  country  extending  ft'om  Dunbar  to 
Aberlady,  and  from  North  Berwick  to  Gifford,  is  occu- 
pied with  the  members  of  this  series,  but  differing  in  a 
marked  degree  from  those  just  described.  The  type  re- 
presented in  this  area  is  characterised  by  a  remarkable 
development  of  volcanic  rocks,  which,  indeed,  cover  the 
greater  portion  of  the  tract.  Towards  the  beginning  of 
the  Calciferous  Sandstone  period  volcanic  activity  com- 
menced in  the  East  Lothian  district,  and  continued 
with  little  cessation  to  near  the  close.  During  this 
long  interval  the  volcanoes  discharged  sheets  of  lava 
and  showers  of  ashes  till  they  reached  a  thickness  of 
well-nigh  1500  feet,  but  so  local  was  the  development 
that  no  trace  of  these  volcanic  materials  is  to  be  found 
in  the  Calciferous  Sandstone  area  between  Cockburns- 
path and  Thorntonloch.  The  following  is  the  succes- 
sion of  the  strata  given  in  descending  order  : — {a)  sand- 
stones, shales,  and  thin  limestones  ;  (b)  thick  sheets  of 
porphyrite  lavas,  becoming  more  augitic  towards  the 
bottom  of  the  series ;  (c)  coarse  ash  and  volcanic 
breccia  ;  (d)  red  and  white  sandstones  and  marls.  The 
sedimentary  strata  underlying  the  volcanic  series  are 
exposed  on  both  side?  of  the  mouth  of  the  Tyne,  where 
they  are  thrown  into  an  anticlinal  arch,  the  axis  of 
which  extends  from  Belhaven  Bay  SW  to  Traprain  Law. 
On  the  N  side  of  this  anticline  the  strata  dip  to  the 
NW,  and  pass  underneath  the  great  pile  of  lavas  and 
tuffs  of  the  Garleton  Hills,  while  on  the  S  side  they  are 
succeeded  only  by  a  portion  of  the  volcanic  series.  The 
earliest  ejections  in  Haddingtonshire  consisted  of  tuffs 
and  coarse  breccias,  which  occupy  the  greater  part  of 
the  coast-line  between  North  Berwick  and  Tantallon 
Castle.  The  base  of  the  series  is  exposed  on  the  shore 
at  the  Gegan  about  4  mile  to  the  E  of  Tantallon,  where 
the  tuff  is  underlaid  by  sandstones  and  marls  dipping 
to  the  W  at  a  low  angle.  In  places  the  ash  forms  pro- 
minent cliffs,  as  at  the  Gin  Head,  near  Canty  Bay,  which 
afford  excellent  opportunities  for  studying  the  features 
of  the  deposit.  Its  general  character  is  somewhat 
varied.  On  the  whole,  it  is  well  stratified,  showing  al- 
ternations of  coarse  breccia  and  layers  of  fine  tuft",  with 
small  felspathic  lapilli.  The  volcanic  breccia  contains 
numerous  bombs  of  porphyrite,  the  largest  measuring  2 
feet  across,  with  fragments  of  sandstones,  shales,  and 
thin  limestones.  A  characteristic  feature  of  this  de- 
posit is  the  intercalation  of  thin  seams  and  lenticular 
patches  of  sandstones,  shales,  and  limestones,  clearly 
proving  the  submarine  character  of  the  eruptions.  One 
of  these  bands  of  limestone  occurs  near  the  base  of  the 
series  at  the  Gegan,  and  another  at  the  Rhodes  quarry 
about  1  mile  E  of  North  Berwick.  In  places  they  emit 
a  fetid  odour.  The  tuff  and  volcanic  breccia  which 
cover  such  a  great  extent  of  coast-line  AV  of  Tantallon 
Castle  extend  inland  as  far  as  Traprain,  forming  a  belt 
of  variable  width  round  the  base  of  the  overlying  lavas. 
They  reappear  on  the  S  side  of  the  anticline  at  Traprain 
Law,  and  can  be  followed  E  to  the  Biel  Burn  N  of  Sten- 
ton  church,  where  they  are  truncated  by  the  dislocation 
which  brings  the  Calciferous  Sandstones  into  conjunc- 
tion with  the  Upper  Old  Red  Sandstones  and  marls. 
Between  Belhaven  Bay  and  Dunbar,  however,  the  tuffs 
are  again  exposed  with  a  SE  inclination,  where  they 
present  the  characteristic  features  just  described. 
236 


HADDINGTONSEIBE 

The  tuffs  and  volcanic  breccias  are  overlaid  by  a  great 
succession  of  porphyrite  lavas  which  have  no  interca- 
lation of  ash  or  sedimentary  deposits.  They  form  the 
range  of  the  Garleton  Hills,  and'as  they  are  inclined  to 
the  W  at  gentle  angles,  they  present  slight  escarpments 
towards  the  E.  The  lavas  first  ejected,  which  rest  on  the 
tuff,  are  more  augitic  than  the  overlying  sheets,  the 
augite  crystals  being  large,  and  the  triclinic  felspars 
being  well  striated.  The  later  ejections,  on  the  other 
hand,  are  less  basic,  and  present  the  characteristic  mic- 
roscopic characters  of  porphyrites.  The  lavas  pass  con- 
formably below  a  limited  thickness  of  sandstones,  shales, 
and  cementstones,  filling  the  interval  to  the  base  of  the 
Carboniferous  Limestone.  From  the  ashy  character  of 
the  sandstones,  it  is  evident  that  they  were  in  a  great 
measure  formed  from  the  trituration  of  the  underlying 
volcanic  materials,  while  the  presence  of  thin  sheets  of 
tuff  indicates  faint  volcanic  outbursts  after  the  main 
ejections  had  ceased.  These  sedimentary  deposits 
stretch  S  by  Aberlady,  Bolton,  and  onwards  to  Fala, 
in  all  cases  graduating  upwards  into  the  Carboniferous 
Limestone.  They  also  cover  a  considerable  tract  of 
ground  round  Haddington,  where  they  are  associated 
with  some  thin  seams  of  coal. 

Within  the  volcanic  area  and  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  there  are  numerous  examples  of  '  necks '  from 
which  the  igneous  materials  were  discharged.  Some  of 
these  are  filled  with  crystalline  rocks,  such  as  basalt, 
porphyrite,  or  felstone,  others  with  tuff  and  volcanic 
agglomerate.  Perhaps  the  two  most  conspicuous  ex- 
amples of  the  former  group  are  North  Berwick  Law 
(612  feet)  and  Traprain  Law  (724).  These  eminences 
rise  considerably  above  the  level  of  the  surrounding 
ground — a  feature  which  is  due  to  the  unyielding  nature 
of  the  compact  felstone  filling  the  vent.  In  the  case  of 
North  Berwick  Law  the  felstone  penetrates  the  stratified 
ash  at  the  base  of  the  volcanic  series,  while  the  mass  on 
Traprain  Law  pierces  the  underlying  Calciferous  Sand- 
stones. On  the  shore  to  the  E  of  Dunbar  there  is  a 
remarkable  example  of  a  vent  filled  with  volcanic  agglo- 
merate, and  similar  instances  occur  between  North  Ber- 
wick and  Tantallon  Castle. 

The  Carboniferous  Limestone  of  Haddingtonshire 
presents  the  triple  classification  which  is  characteristic 
of  this  group  of  strata  in  other  parts  of  Scotland,  viz. — 
(1.)  an  Upper  Limestone  series;  (2.)  a  middle  series 
with  coals  and  ironstones;  (3.)  a  Lower  Limestone 
series.  The  members  of  the  lowest  subdivision  occur  in 
a  small  isolated  area  between  Dunbar  and  Thorntonloch, 
where  they  are  thrown  into  a  small  synclinal  trough. 
As  the  basin  is  truncated  by  the  sea,  we  have  only  a 
portion  of  the  syncline  represented,  but  the  order  of 
succession  is  admirably  displayed  on  the  coast  section. 
This  outlier  comprises  five  separate  limestones,  of  which 
the  Skateraw  bed  is  the  most  important.  It  is  12  feet 
thick,  and  is  underlaid  by  a  thin  seam  of  coal.  On  the 
shore  N  of  Thorntonloch  the  lowest  bed  rests  conform- 
ably on  the  Calciferous  Sandstones,  but  inland  to  the 
N  of  Innerwick  the  Limestone  series  is  brought  into 
conjunction  with  the  Upper  Old  Eed  Sandstone  by 
means  of  a  fault. 

Between  Aberlady  and  the  county  boundary,  near 
Musselburgh,  the  three  subdivisions  are  represented  in 
regular  succession.  At  the  former  locality  the  members 
of  the  Lower  Limestone  series  crop  out  on  the  shore 
with  a  gentle  inclination  to  the  W,  graduating  down- 
wards into  the  Calciferous  Sandstones.  From  this 
point  they  extend  S  by  East  Saltoun  to  the  county 
boundary  at  Pathhead,  preserving  the  same  inclination 
to  the  W  and  NW,  and  passing  below  the  members  of 
the  middle  division.  By  means  of  an  anticlinal  arch 
the  Lower  Limestones  are  again  brought  to  the  surface 
on  the  Roman  Camp  Hill  N  of  Gorebridge.  The  middle 
series  includes  the  coals  and  ironstones  of  the  East 
Lothian  coal-field,  which  are  evidently  the  equivalents 
of  the  Edge  coals  of  Midlothian.  The  Haddingtonshire 
coal-field  is  upwards  of  30  square  miles  in  extent,  and 
comprises  no  fewer  than  ten  seams  of  coal  of  more  or 
less  importance.      The  beds  are  thrown  into  a  great 


HADDINGTONSHIRE 

synclinal  trough,  the  axis  of  which  runs  from  the  shore 
at  Port  Seton  S  by  Tranent  to  Elphinstone  Tower.  Hence 
on  the  E  side  of  the  basin  the  coal  seams  dip  to  the  W, 
only  to  reappear  with  an  E  dip  along  the  anticlinal  arch 
of  the  Roman  Camp  Hill.  In  tlie  centre  of  this  trough 
at  Port  Seton,  there  are  two  thin  bands  of  limestone 
belonging  to  the  highest  division  of  the  Carboniferous 
Limestone. 

The  Lower  Limestone  series  in  Gosford  Bay  is  tra- 
versed by  a  sheet  of  intrusive  dolerite,  and  similar 
sheets  are  met  with  to  tlie  N  of  Aberlady  in  the  Calci- 
ferous  Sandstones.  A  few  basalt  dykes,  probably  of 
Tertiary  age,  pierce  the  Haddingtonshire  coal-field,  of 
which  the  most  important  is  that  extending  from  Pres- 
tonpaus  E  by  Seton  Mains  to  near  Longniddry. 

The  trend  of  the  ice  flow  during  the  glacial  period 
over  the  low-lying  portion  of  Haddingtonshire  was  E 
and  ENE,  but  a  portion  of  the  ice  sheet  surmounted  the 
chain  of  the  Lammermuirs,  and  moved  in  a  SE  direction 
towards  the  Berwickshire  plain.  That  sucli  was  the 
course  of  the  ice  sheet  is  not  only  proved  by  the  ice 
markings,  but  also  by  the  transport  of  tlie  materials  in 
the  boulder  clay.  This  deposit  varies  considerably  in 
character,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  underlying 
rocks ;  in  the  Silurian  area  it  is  a  stiff  fawn-coloured 
stony  clay,  while  in  the  Old  Red  and  Calciferous  Sand- 
stone districts  it  is  sandy  and  has  a  reddish  tint.  The 
sands  and  gravels  are  found  partly  flanking  tlie  hills  in 
the  form  of  more  or  less  continuous  sheets  or  ridged  up 
in  mounds,  and  partly  in  connection  mth  the  100 -feet 
terrace.  The  25-feet  beach  is  visible  at  various  points 
on  the  coast,  though  its  development  is  but  limited. 
It  occurs  at  North  Berwick,  where  it  is  partly  obscured 
by  blown  sand,  and  also  near  Seacliff  Tower.  Tracts  of 
blown  sand  are  met  with  at  the  nioutli  of  the  Tyne, 
near  Tyninghame,  and  again  between  GuUane  HUl  and 
North  Berwick. 

East  Lothian  is  not  rich  in  coal,  although  the  coal 
beds  at  Prestoupans  are  said  to  have  been  worked  by 
the  monks  of  Newbattle  so  early  as  the  beginning  of  the 
13th  century.  Limestone  is  abundant  throughout  the 
county.  In  1866  a  rich  deposit  of  hematite  of  iron  was 
discovered  in  the  Garletou  Hills,  and  for  several  years 
was  worked  successfully.  Iron  is  found  in  Gladsmuir 
parish,  where  the  Macmerry  Iron-works  are  situated. 

As  is  to  be  expected,  the  soils  in  the  various  parts  of 
the  county  differ  much  from  each  other.  On  the  hills 
much  of  it  is  thin  and  mossy  ;  but  of  late  years  crops 
of  turnips  and  oats  have  been  obtained  on  what  was 
before  unfilled  land,  covered  with  whins  or  heather. 
Along  the  base  of  the  hills  stretches  an  extent  of  rich 
and  valuable  grain  and  pasture  land,  from  which  heavy 
crops  are  reaped  that  contribute  no  small  amount  to- 
wards enhancing  the  agricultural  reputation  of  the 
county.  To  the  N  of  this,  and  extending  across  the 
shire  is  a  band  of  heavy  tenacious  yellow  clay,  resting 
on  a  basis  of  till  or  boulder  clay,  and  presenting  some 
of  the  worst  agricultural  land  in  Scotland.  This  soil, 
however,  is  not  unfavourable  to  the  growth  of  such 
timber  as  oak,  beech,  larch,  and  fir.  The  most  fertile 
parts  of  the  whole  county  are  in  the  E,  near  Dunbar, 
where  rich  loam  is  abundant,  and  clay  and  light  sand 
not  rare.  Wheat  and  beans,  and  the  famous  kind  of 
potatoes  kno^Ti  as  '  Dunbar  Reds,'  are  the  heaviest 
crops  of  this  district.  The  farms  of  W  Haddingtonshire 
have  lighter  loam  soils  and  mixtures  of  clay  and  sand 
that  are  annually  made  to  yield  very  excellent  harvests. 
The  climate  of  Haddingtonshire  is  also  well  suited  for  an 
agricultural  district.  The  proximity  of  the  sea  and  the 
extent  of  coast-line  prevents  the  extremes  of  either  heat 
or  cold  being  experienced  in  the  shire,  though  a  cold 
and  searching  E  wind  prevails  in  late  spring  and  early 
summer.  The  rainfall  is  exceedingly  small,  and  the 
county  is  more  exposed  to  agricultural  loss  from  too 
little  than  from  too  much  rain,  though  the  Lammer- 
muirs are  often  covered  with  cold  and  wetting  mists  that 
are  not  taken  into  account  in  calculating  the  rainfall. 
According  to  observations  at  seven  stations  extending 
over  several  years  the  annual  rainfall  is  25  '12  inches  ;  at 


HADDINGTONSHIRE 

the  town  of  Haddington  it  is  25  inches.  The  extremes 
were  observed  at  Yestcr,  in  the  SW,  420  feet  above 
sea-level,  where  3272  inches  were  registered  ;  and  at 
Smeaton,  in  the  NE  of  Midlotliian,  100  feet  above  sea- 
level,  where  the  return  was  18 '62.  The  temperature  is 
on  the  whole  equable.  The  annual  mean  observed  at 
Yester  for  thirteen  years  ending  in  1869  was  46 '5°,  and 
at  Smeaton,  47  '2° ;  whilst  at  East  Linton,  90  feet  above 
sea-level,  it  was  47 '4°  during  1882,  when  the  rainfall  was 
27  '25.  Snow,  though  not  infrequent,  seldom  lies  many 
days  in  the  lowlands  of  Haddingtonshire.  The  spring 
is,  in  general,  dry,  with  only  occasional  severe  showers 
of  hail  and  rain  from  the  NE  ;  in  summer  and  autumn 
the  only  rainy  points  are  the  S  and  E. 

The  natural  advantages  of  soil  and  climate  in  East 
Lothian  are  of  themselves  almost  enough  to  ensure  its 
agiicultural  prosperity ;  but  its  present  pre-eminence, 
as  perhaps  the  richest  grain-producing  district  of  Scot- 
land, is  also  due  not  a  little  to  the  industry,  enterprise, 
and  skill  of  its  farmers  and  landowners.  East  Lothian 
has  been  an  agricultural  county  for  centuries,  and  the 
monks  of  the  Middle  Ages  may  perhaps  be  regarded  as 
the  founders  of  its  agricultural  greatness.  A  cm'ious 
fact  is  that,  along  the  coterminous  line  of  the  uplands 
and  lowlands,  the  parishes  were  anciently,  just  as  at 
present,  so  distributed  that  each,  while  stretching  into 
the  fertile  plain,  had  attached  to  it  a  section  of  the 
Lammermuirs,  as  a  necessary  adjunct  to  its  agricultural 
practice  of  summer  pasturage.  Mills  were  numerous, 
and  their  number  and  activity  are  proofs  of  the  quantity 
of  grain  raised  in  the  district.  The  Lammermuirs  at 
all  times  fostered  the  pastoral  calling.  Hay  also  was 
raised  in  abundance,  and  so  early  as  the  13th  century 
was  subjected  to  tithes  ;  and  in  1298  the  English  sol- 
diers, who  were  besieging  Dirleton  Castle,  found  a  means 
of  sustenance  in  the  pease  that  grew  in  the  neighbouring 
fields.  Although  the  troubles  and  wars  of  the  succeed- 
ing centuries  inflicted  a  check  upon  the  arts  of  peace  in 
Haddingtonshire  as  well  as  in  the  rest  of  Scotland,  the 
shire  recovered  its  former  position ;  and,  according  to 
Whitelocke,  the  English  soldiers  who  entered  Scotland 
with  Cromwell  in  1650  were  astonished  to  find  in  East 
Lothian  '  the  greatest  plenty  of  corn  they  ever  saw,  not 
one  of  the  fields  being  fallow.'  The  real  beginning  of 
the  agricultural  pre-eminence  of  Haddingtonshire  dates 
from  about  the  period  of  the  Union  of  the  parliaments 
of  Scotland  and  England  in  1707.  Lord  Belhaven  con- 
tributed to  improve  tlie  theory  of  agriculture  by  his 
Advice  to  the  Farmers  in  Hast  Lothian,  piublished  in 
1723  ;  while  Thomas,  sixth  Earl  of  Haddington,  im- 
proved its  practice  by  introducing  skilled  labour  from 
England.  James  Meikle,  a  mechanic  who  had  been 
despatched  to  Holland  in  1710  by  Fletcher  of  Salton  to 
acquire  the  art  of  making  decorticated  barley,  intro- 
duced from  that  country  the  use  of  fanners  in  sifting 
grain  ;  and  in  1787  Andrew  Meikle,  his  son,  invented 
the  thrashing-mill.  Improvements  came  in  thick  and 
fast  after  the  introduction  of  fanners  ;  landowners  vied 
with  each  in  adopting  new  inventions  and  new  ma- 
chinery, and  their  farming  tenants  zealously  co-operated. 
Lord  Elibank,  Sir  Hew  Dalrymple,  the  Marquis  of 
Tweeddale,  and  Sir  George  Suttie  deserve  to  be  men- 
tioned in  the  former  class  ;  and  Wight,  who  introduced 
horse-hoeing  in  1736,  Cunningham,  Hay,  who  first  raised 
potatoes  in  the  fields  about  1754,  John  Walker  of  Pres- 
tonkirk,  who  was  the  first  to  adopt  the  English  practice 
of  fallomng,  and  George  Rennie  of  Phantassie,  are  worthy 
representatives  of  the  second  class.  John  Cockburn  of 
Ormiston,  a  politician  who  had  in  his  later  years  turned 
his  attention  to  '  agricultural  improvements,  the  classic 
diversion  of  a  statesman's  care,'  founded  about  1743 
perhaps  the  earliest  farmers'  club  in  Scotland.  In  1804 
General  Fletcher  of  Salton  organised  another  farmers' 
society,  which  in  1819-20  was  amalgamated  with  a  more 
extensive  association,  under  the  name  of  '  The  United 
East  Lothian  Agricultural  Society.'  Under  such  aus- 
pices and  supported  by  such  enterprise,  the  agriculture 
of  Haddingtonshire  has  made  rapid  and  sure  advances 
in  every  department.     In  1811  steam  power  was  first 

237 


HADDINGTONSHmE 

applied  to  threshing  corn  in  East  Lothian,  and  now 
steam  power  is  used  on  almost  every  farm  in  the  county. 
The  social  condition  and  physique  of  the  hinds  have 
both  improved  to  a  very  marked  degree.  In  the  words 
of  Mr  Hope  of  Fentonbarns,  speaking  in  1835  of  the 
close  of  last  century,  'a  married  ploughman  was  paid 
in  farm  produce,  but  he  received  24  bushels  less  oats 
than  is  now  given  ;  besides  the  grain  was  fully  10  per 
cent,  inferior  to  the  produce  of  the  present  time ;  and 
the  cow,  from  want  of  sown  grass,  was  often  scarcely 
worth  the  milking,  and,  still  more,  potatoes  were  then 
hardly  known.  The  consequences  were,  that  the  poor 
hind  was  miserably  fed,  poorly  clad,  feeble,  and  parti- 
cularly liable  to  sickness.  At  that  period,  regularly  in 
the  spring  in  every  hamlet  and  village,  the  ague  made 
its  appearance  in  almost  every  family,  and  there  can 
hardly  be  a  doubt  of  that  sickness  having  often  been 
the  natural  effects  of  poverty  and  filth  more  than  any- 
thing else. '  Now  the  average  wages  of  a  farm-servant 
is  £20  or  £25  in  money,  and  meal,  potatoes,  grass  for  a 
cow,  together  with  a  cottage  and  a  little  garden-ground, 
estimated  together  to  be  equivalent  to  £20  or  £25  more. 
Within  the  present  century  the  most  powerful  impetus 
to  farming  was  derived  from  the  high  price  of  grain 
during  the  Crimean  war.  In  1853,  1854,  and  1855  the 
fiar  prices  of  wheat  per  quarter  in  East  Lothian  were 
£3,  15s.  lOd.,  £3,  12s.  lid.,  and  £3,  18s.  3d.  ;  while  in 
1851  it  was  only  £1,  18s.  8d.  ;  and  in  1864,  again, 
£1,  15s.  lOd.,  the  lowest  price  this  century.  In  1881 
the  price  was  £1,  18s.  7Jd.  The  farms  of  East  Lothian 
are  larger  than  the  average  Scottish  holdings.  Most  of 
them  are  from  200  to  500  acres  ;  some  range  so  high  as 
1200  acres.  The  rents,  of  course,  vary  according  to  the 
fertility  of  the  soil  in  the  different  parts  of  the  count}'. 
The  19  or  21  years'  lease  is  the  most  usual  duration  of 
holding.  A  six-course  shift  is  the  rule — (1 )  grass  (pasture 
or  hay),  (2)  oats,  (3)  potatoes,  turnips,  or  beans,  (4)  wheat, 
(5)  turnips,  (6)  barley  ;  but  the  only  principle  is  that  of 
making  a  grain  and  green  crop  succeed  each  other,  pulse 
being  always  reckoned  a  green  crop  in  this  succession. 

In  the  whole  of  Scotland  the  percentage  of  cultivated 
area  is  only  24  '2 ;  in  Haddingtonshire  it  rises  as  high  as 
64 '4 — a  figure  exceeded  only  by  Fife  (74 -8),  Linlithgow- 
shire (731),  and  Berwickshire  (65'4).  The  following 
table  exhibits  the  acreage  of  land  under  the  various 
crops  in  various  years  : — 


1S67. 

1873. 

1874. 

1880. 

1881. 

1SS2. 

Grain  Crops — 

Wheat,   .     . 

11,702 

10,793 

11,645 

9,463 

8,748 

9,9S9 

Barley,   .     . 

12,068 

15,498 

15,179 

17,116 

17,625 

1,''>,492 

Oats,  .    .    . 

16,034 

15,948 

15,181 

17,271 

17,081 

17,478 

Beans,    .     . 

2,311 

2,921 

2,651 

1,375 

2,003 

2,438 

Root  Crops — 

Potatoes,     . 

7,480 

8.185 

8,188 

9,943 

9,282 

7,666 

Turnips,      . 

15,610 

15,385 

15,629 

15,167 

15,447 

15,827 

Carrots,  .     . 

236 

186 

156 

211 

186 

167 

Green  Crops — 

Grass  under 

Rotation,  . 

25,794 

,, 

23,639 

27,  OSS 

27,970 

^^ 

Permanent 

Pa3tui-e(not 

Heath),      . 

13,406 

18,677 

16,242 

16,083 

Live  Stoclc— 

Farm  Horses 

3,671 

3,192 

3,442 

3,259 

Cattle,    .    . 

7',669 

8,008 

8,237 

9,062 

8,279 

Sheep,    .    . 

108,148 

104,482 

111,886 

111,928 

114,496 

Pigs,  .    .    . 

4,744 

•■ 

2,490 

2,330 

2,827 

Less  than  one-twenty-third  of  the  whole  of  Scotland  is 
under  woods ;  in  Haddingtonshire  the  proportion  is 
more  than  one-seventeenth,  viz.,  10,474  acres.  Its 
woods,  indeed,  are  tolerably  extensive,  and  a  good  deal 
has  been  done  in  the  way  of  artificial  planting.  The 
sixth  Earl  of  Haddington  was  the  first  great  planter, 
and  the  trees  he  planted  in  1705  and  subsequent  years 
on  his  estate  at  Tyninghame  now  form  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  forests  in  the  south  of  Scotland.  They  suffered, 
however,  enormous  havoc  from  the  gale  of  14  Oct.  1881. 
238 


HADDINGTONSHIRE 

The  woods  of  Humble  and  Salton,  lying  adjacent  to  each 
other,  are  also  noteworthy.  In  Trans.  Highl.  aiid  Ag. 
Soc.  for  1879-81  are  five  tables  giving  the  dimensions  of 
119  old  and  remarkable  Spanish  chestnuts,  ash-trees, 
sycamores,  beeches,  and  oaks  in  the  county.  About 
148  acres  are  annually  devoted  to  orchards,  410  to 
market  gardens,  and  6  to  nursery  gardens.  The  East 
Lothian  farmers  do  not  as  a  rule  bestow  much  of 
their  attention  on  breeding  cattle,  though  here  and 
there  small  herds  are  reared  and  fattened.  Enor- 
mous numbers  of  sheep,  on  the  other  hand,  are  fed 
on  the  fine  pastoral  farms  of  the  Lammermuirs  and 
elsewhere,  and  there  are  several  well-known  breeders 
of  sheep  both  among  the  proprietors  and  tenants.  Bor- 
der Leicesters  are  the  most  usual  variety  raised,  though 
there  are  also  several  flocks  of  Southdowns  ;  and  in  the 
Lammermuirs  Cheviots  and  blackfaced  flocks  are  main- 
tained. Dairy  farming  is  quite  at  a  discount  in  the 
county,  and  pigs  are  fed  only  for  domestic  purposes. 
In  1882  there  were  497  horses  and  mares  in  the  county 
used  for  breeding  purposes. 

Notwithstanding  the  favourable  position  of  the  sea- 
board, the  proximity  of  the  metropolis,  and  the  presence 
of  coal,  manufactures  have  never  flourished  in  Had- 
dingtonshire, though  they  have  been  introduced  at 
various  periods  and  in  several  districts.  Repeated 
efforts  to  establish  a  woollen  manufactory  in  the  town 
of  Haddington  resulted  in  failure.  A  variegated  woollen 
fabric,  knovm  as  the  Gilmerton  livery,  seemed  for  a  time 
to  have  become  a  staple  at  Athelstaneford,  but  it  has 
long  ceased  to  be  produced.  In  1793  a  flax-mill  was 
erected  at  West  Barns,  and  in  1815  a  cotton  factory  was 
started  at  Belhaven,  but  both  entailed  loss  on  their 
proprietors ;  and  their  stoppage  made  paupers  of  many 
of  the  operatives.  A  paper-miU,  a  starch-work,  the 
earliest  factory  in  Britain  for  the  manufacture  of  Hol- 
lands, the  first  bleachfield  of  the  British  Linen  Company, 
and  the  earliest  manufactory  of  decorticated  or  pot-barley 
were  situated  in  Salton  parish,  but  all  have  failed  and 
have  disappeared.  The  Macmerry  Iron-works  in  Glads- 
muir  parish  are  also  stopped ;  so  that  now  the  only 
noticeable  existing  manufactories  in  the  county  are 
a  pottery  at  Prestonpans,  two  foundries  in  Dunbar 
parish,  a  manufactory  of  agricultural  implements  at 
Tranent,  two  or  three  extensive  distilleries,  about 
eight  or  ten  breweries,  of  which  the  chief  are  at 
Prestonpans,  two  or  three  tan-works,  and  one  or  two 
establishments  for  the  preparation  of  bone-dust  and  rape- 
cake.  Fishing  and  fish-curing  are  carried  on  at  Dunbar, 
Cockenzie,  and  other  coast  villages  ;  and  there  are  salt- 
pans at  Prestonpans  and  Cockenzie. 

The  roads  of  Iladdingtonshire  are  nimierous  and  good ; 
though  before  1751  the  county  was  sadly  deficient  in 
means  of  communication.  The  county  road  board  con- 
sists of  a  number  of  the  commissioners  of  supply  for  the 
county,  and  a  number  of  elected  trustees.  One  good 
line  of  turnpike  runs  along  the  whole  coast  of  the  Firth 
of  Forth  eastward  to  North  Berwick ;  another  runs  south- 
ward from  Dirleton  to  Haddington  ;  another — the  great 
quondam  mail  line  between  Edinburgh  and  London — 
runs  along  the  whole  breadth  of  the  county  eastward 
through  Haddington  to  Dunbar,  and  then  along  the 
coast  tiU  it  enters  Berwickshire  ;  a  fom'th  leaves  the 
former  at  Tranent,  and  passes  through  Salton  and  Gil- 
ford, and  over  the  Lammermuir  Hills  to  Duns ;  and 
a  fifth,  the  post-road  between  Edinburgh  and  Lauder, 
intersects  the  SW  wing  of  the  county  at  Soutra.  The 
North  British  railway  affords  to  the  greater  part  of  the 
lowlands  of  the  county  exceedingly  valuable  facilities  of 
communication  ;  entering  from  Edinburghshire  a  little 
N  of  Falside,  passing  between  Prestonpans  and  Tranent, 
proceeding  north-eastward  to  Drem,  sending  off  two 
branches  respectively  from  Longniddry  eastward  to 
Haddington,  and  from  Drem  northward  to  Dirleton  and 
North  Berwick,  and  curving  from  Drem  through  all  the 
north-eastern  districts,  by  way  of  East  Fortune,  East 
Linton,  Dunbar,  and  Innerwick,  to  Dunglass.  The 
harbours  of  the  county  are  all,  in  point  of  commerce, 
very  inconsiderable,  and  even  in  point  of  commodious- 


HADDINGTONSHIRE 

ness  aie  very  inferior.      Their  extent  and  other  par- 
ticulars will  be  found  noticed  under  Port  Seton,  Pees- 

TONPANS,  COCKENZIE,  BERWICK  (NORTH),  and  DtTNBAR. 

The  royal  burghs  in  Haddingtonshire  are  Haddington, 
the  county  town,  Dunbar,  and  North  Berwick.  The 
only  other  towns  are  Tranent  and  Prestonpans,  which, 
as  well  as  part  of  East  Linton,  are  police  burghs.  The 
other  villages  and  principal  hamlets  are  Aberlady,  Athel- 
staneford,  Belhaven,  Bolton,  Cockenzie,  Dirleton,  Drem, 
East  Barns,  West  I5arns,  Garvald,  Gifford,  Gladsmuir, 
GuUane,  Humble,  Innerwick,  Kingston,  Oldhamstocks, 
Ormiston,  Pencaitland,  Penston,  Port  Seton,  Prestonkirk, 
Salton,  Samuelston,  Spott,  Stenton,  Tynninghame,  and 
Wliitekirk.  The  chief  seats  are  Broxmouth  Park  (Duke 
of  Roxburghe),  Yester  House  (Marquis  of  Tweeddale), 
Coalstoun  "House  (Hon.  R.  Bourke,  M.P.),  Gosford  and 
Amisfield  House  (Earl  of  Wemyss),  Tyninghame  House 
(Earl  of  Haddington),  Biel  and  Archerfield  House  (Lady 
Mary  Nisbet  Hamilton),  Ormiston  Hall  (Earl  of  Hope- 
toun).  Humble  (Lord  Polwarth),  BallencriefF  House,  Len- 
noxlove  House,  Prestongrange,  Dunglass  House,  Seton 
House,  Fountainhall,  Gilmerton  House,  Locbend,  K"ew- 
byth  House,  Nunraw  House,  Phantassie,  Salton  Hall, 
Whittinghame  House,  Herdmanston  House,  Winton 
House,  Pencaitland  House,  Woodcot  House,  Balgone, 
Letham  House,  Stevenson  House,  Clerkington  House, 
Eaglescairnie  House,  Alderston  House,  Bower  House, 
Cockenzie  House,  Drummore  House,  Elphinstone  Tower, 
Gifford  Bank,  Gullane  Lodge,  Nolyn  Bank,  Hopes  House, 
Huntington  House,  Leaston  House,  Luffness  House, 
Monkrigg  House,  llorliam  Bank,  Newton  HaU,  Pilmore, 
Pogbie  House,  RedcoU  House,  Rockville  House,  Ruchlaw 
House,  Skedobush  House,  Spott  House,  St  Germain's, 
Thurston  House,  and  Tynholm  House.  According  to  Mis- 
cellaneous Statistics  of  the  United  Kingdom  (1879)  171,739 
acres,  with  a  total  gross  estimated  rental  of  £349,210,  were 
divided  among  1509  landowners,  1  holding  20,486  acres 
(rental  £11,485),  3  from  10,000  to  20,000  acres,  5 
from  5000  to  10,000,  26  from  1000  to  5000,  95  from  10 
to  1000,  188  from  1  to  10,  and  1191  under  1  acre. 

The  county  contains  24  quoad  civilia  parishes  and  2 
chapels  of  ease.  The  parishes  of  Aberlady,  Athelstane- 
ford,  Bolton,  Dirleton,  Garvald,  Gladsmuir,  Hadding- 
ton, Humble,  Morham,  North  Berwick,  Pencaitland, 
Prestonpans,  Salton,  Tranent,  and  Yester  form  the  pres- 
bytery of  Haddington  ;  and  those  of  Cockburnspath 
(Berwickshire),  Dunbar,  Belhaven,  Innerwick,  Oldham- 
stocks, Prestonkh-k,  Spott,  Stenton,  Whitekirk,  Tyn- 
ninghame, and  Whittinghame  form  the  presbytery  of 
Dunbar ;  while  Ormiston  parish  belongs  to  the  presby- 
tery of  Dalkeith.  All  are  in  the  synod  of  Lothian  and 
Tweeddale.  The  Free  Church  of  Scotland  also  has  a 
presbytery  of  Haddington  and  Dunbar,  with  congrega- 
tions at  Dirleton,  Garvald,  Yester,  Haddington,  Humble, 
North  Berwick,  Pencaitland,  Salton  and  Bolton,  Tranent, 
Prestonpans,  Dunbar,  Prestonkirk,  Innerwick,  and  Cock- 
burnspath ;  besides  churches  at  Cockenzie  and  Ormiston 
in  connection  with  its  Dalkeith  presbytery.  Other 
congregations  in  the  county  are  8  U.  P.  — 2  at  Hadding- 
ton, 2  at  Dunbar,  and  1  each  at  East  Linton,  Tranent, 
North  Berwick,  and  Aberlady ;  3  Scottish  Episcopal — 1 
in  each  of  the  royal  burghs ;  2  Roman  Catholic — 1  at  Had- 
dington and  1  at  Dunbar ;  and  1  Methodist  at  Dunbar. 
In  the  year  ending  30  Sept.  1881,  the  county  had 
53  schools  (44  of  them  public),  which,  with  accom- 
modation for  7665  children,  had  6134  on  the  registers, 
and  4512  in  average  attendance.  The  certificated,  as- 
sistant, and  pupil  teachers  numbered  respectively  73, 
8,  and  34.  Among  the  benevolent  institutions  of  the 
county  are  Stiell's  Hospital  in  the  parish  of  Tranent, 
and  Gilbert  Burnet's  Fund  in  Salton  parish.  In  1882 
Schaw's  Hospital  in  Prestonpans  was  rented  as  an 
institution  for  training  girls  or  domestic  servants,  under 
the  will  of  Miss  Murray. 

The  county  is  governed  (1883)  by  a  lord-lieutenant,  a 
vice-lieutenant,  25  deputy -lieutenants,  a  sheriff,  a  sheriff- 
substitute,  and  between  60  and  70  justices  of  the  peace, 
besides  the  chief  magistrates  of  the  royal  burghs  and 
East  Linton.     Ordinary  sheriff  courts  are  held  at  Had- 


HADDINGTONSHIEE 

dington  every  Thursday  during  session  ;  and  courts 
under  the  Debts  Recovery  and  Small  Debt  Act  every 
alternate  Thursday.  Debts  recovery  and  small  debt 
circuit  courts  are  held  at  Dunbar  on  the  third  Tuesdays 
of  February,  March,  May,  October,  and  December,  and 
the  first  Tuesday  of  July ;  at  Tranent  on  the  fourth 
Tuesdays  of  January,  March,  May,  and  November,  and 
second  Tuesdays  of  July  and  October ;  and  at  North. 
Berwick  on  the  tliird  Wednesday  of  January,  and  second 
Wednesdays  of  May,  July,  and  October.  General  quar- 
ter-sessions of  justices  of  the  peace  are  held  at  Hadding- 
ton on  the  first  Tuesday  of  March,  third  Tuesday  of 
April,  first  Tuesday  of  August,  and  last  Tuesday  of 
October,  and  adjourned  sessions  of  the  peace  on  the 
second  Thursda)'  of  January.  Meetings  of  justices  are 
also  held  at  Dunbar  on  the  first  Wednesday  of  October, 
fourth  Wednesday  of  February,  and  thu-d  Wednesday  of 
Jime  ;  and  at  North  Berwick  in  March  and  July.  The 
annual  general  meeting  of  the  commissioners  of  supply 
is  held  in  the  county  town  on  the  first  Tuesday  of  May. 
The  police  force  in  1882  comprised  36  men,  whose 
superintendent's  salary  was  £220.  The  county  prison 
is  at  Haddington ;  and  at  the  census  of  1881  it  contained 
6  prisoners,  Dunbar  police  station  1,  and  Tranent 
police  station  2.  In  1881  the  number  of  vagrants  iu 
the  county  was  73,  of  whom  17  were  females.  The 
annual  value  of  real  property  was  (1811)  £250,126,  (1843) 
£258,743,  (1879)  £363,137,  (1882)  £348,658,  of  which 
£18,322  was  for  railways,  and  £39,325  was  within  the 
3  royal  burghs,  leaving  for  the  county  £291,010,  as 
against  £279,861  for  1882-83.  This  decrease  is  due  to 
the  fall  in  the  rents  of  farms.  Haddingtonshire  returns 
one  member  to  parliament,  having  been  represented  by 
a  Conservative,  Lord  Elcho,  of  volunteer  celebrity,  from 
July  1847  till  Jan.  1883,  when  he  succeeded  his  father 
as  ninth  Earl  of  Wemyss.  The  county  constituency  in 
1883  is  1071.  Between  1871  and  1881  the  population  of 
Haddingtonshire  was  increased  by  731,  or  1  '94  per  cent., 
chiefly  in  the  burghs.  Between  1861  and  1871  the 
increase  was  only  137,  and  since  1801  it  is  9526.  The 
slight  increase  iu  the  rural  population  is  accounted  for 
by  the  steady  concentration  of  trade  in  the  towns,  and 
the  general  adoption  of  the  '  gang '  system  in  fanning 
operations — the  '  gangs '  living  for  the  most  part  in 
towns.  In  1881  294  persons,  or  76  per  cent,  spoke 
Gaelic  in  Haddingtonshire,  as  compared  with  the  per- 
centage of  6 '20  for  all  Scotland.  The  proportion  of 
females  to  males  in  the  county  in  1881  was  104'73  to  100, 
Haddingtonshire  being  twentieth  among  the  Scottish 
counties  in  this  respect.  The  average  of  the  whole 
country  was  107-59  to  100.  Pop.  (1801)  29,986,  (1811) 
31,050,  (1821)  35,127,  (1831)  36,145,  (1841)  35,886, 
(1851)  36,386,  (1861)  37,634,  (1871),  37,771,  and  (1881) 
38,502,  of  whom  19,696  were  females,  whilst  12,204  were 
in  the  four  towns,  7374  in  the  ten  villages,  and  18,924 
rural,  the  three  last  corresponding  figures  in  the  1871 
census  being  11,423,  6623,  and  19,725.  Houses  (1881) 
8122  inhabited,  948  vacant,  44  building. 

The  registration  county  takes  in  part  of  Oldhamstocks 
parish  from  Berwickshire,  and  gives  off  part  of  Fala  and 
Soutra  parish  to  Edinburghshire.  Pop.  (1881)  38,510. 
All  the  parishes  are  assessed  for  the  poor ;  eleven  of 
them,  with  one  in  Berwickshire,  form  East  Lothian  com- 
bination, with  a  poorhouse  at  Prestonkirk  ;  and  eight, 
with  two  in  Edinburghshire,  form  Inveresk  combination. 
The  Haddington  old  parochial  hospital  had  10  patients 
in  April  1881  ;  and  the  Haddington  County  Asylum 
contained  92  lunatics. 

The  history  of  what  is  now  known  as  Haddington- 
shire will  be  found  under  the  articles  Lothians  and 
DlTNB.iE  ;  for  its  fate  has  always  been  closely  connected 
with  that  of  the  Earls  of  Dunbar.  It  is  enough  to  say 
here  that  Haddingtonshire  shows  traces  of  Roman 
occupation,  and  that,  after  for  a  time  forming  part  of 
the  Saxon  kingdom  of  Northumbria,  it  passed  under  the 
sceptre  of  Malcolm  II.  of  Scotland  in  1020.  It  enjoyed 
undisturbed  repose  during  the  reigns  of  David  I. ,  Mal- 
colm IV. ,  and  William  the  Lyon  ;  but  in  the  struggles 
of  Scotland  with  the  English  in  the  13th  and  following 

93Q 


EADDO  HOUSE 

centuries  it  had  its  full  share  of  troubles  and  fightings. 
The  numerous  ruined  towers  and  castles  in  every  part 
of  the  lowlands  of  the  county  bear  ample  testimony  to 
the  troublous  times  of  that  and  the  succeeding  periods 
of  history.  Within  the  limits  of  the  shire  are  the 
battlefields  of  Dunbar,  where  Cromwell  defeated  the 
Scottish  army  in  1650,  and  of  Prestonpans  where 
Prince  Charles  Edward  met  the  English  forces  under 
General  Cope  in  1745.  In  connection  with  its  more 
private  history,  some  of  its  famous  families  and  cele- 
brated men  should  be  mentioned.  Among  the  former 
are  the  Fletchers  of  Salton,  the  Setons  of  Seton,  the 
HamUtons  of  Preston,  the  Maitlands  of  Lethington 
(now  Lennoxlove),  and  the  Dalrymples  of  Hailes. 
Walter  Bower  or  Bo^vmaker,  the  continuer  of  Fordun's 
Scotichronicon ;  Andrew  de  Wyntoun,  the  metrical 
chronicler  ;  and  John  Mair  or  Major,  also  a  chronicler, — 
are  all  claimed  as  East  Lothian  men.  Sir  R.  Maitland, 
who  lived  at  Lethington,  was  a  court  poet  in  the  days 
of  Queen  Mary ;  and  James  VI. 's  Chancellor  Maitland 
was  born  within  the  walls  of  the  same  old  castle.  Gar- 
mylton  (now  Garleton)  Castle  disputes  with  Fifeshire  the 
honour  of  being  the  birthplace  of  Sir  David  Lindsay : 
and  the  poet's  latest  editor  (D.  Laing's  Works  of  Sir 
David  Lindsay,  3  vols.,  1879)  rather  inclines  to  favour 
the  claim  of  Garleton.  AVilliam  Dunbar,  the  poet,  is 
claimed  as  a  native  by  Salton  parish,  and  George 
Heriot  by  Gladsniuir.  John  Knox  is  undoubtedly  the 
most  famous  of  East  Lothian  men  ;  and  others  are 
noted  in  the  local  articles  on  the  different  towns  and 
villages.  Among  the  famous  clergymen  who  have  held 
charges  in  Haddingtonshii'e  there  may  be  mentioned 
Bishop  Gilbert  Burnet,  who  was  parish  minister  of 
Salton  from  1665  till  1669,  and  who  left  a  bequest  to 
the  parish  ;  Blair,  author  of  the  Grave,  and  Home, 
author  of  Douglas,  were  successive  ministers  at  Athel- 
staneford  ;  David  Calderwood,  author  of  the  History  of 
the  Church  of  Scotland,  was  minister  of  Pencaitland ; 
and  William  Robertson,  the  historian,  and  afterwards 
principal  of  Edinburgh  University,  filled  the  pulpit  at 
Gladsmuir.  George  Wishart,  the  martyr,  was  seized  by 
Bothwell  at  Ormiston. 

The  antiquities  of  the  county  are  both  numerous  and 
interesting,  though  some,  as  for  example,  a  Caledonian 
stone  circle  in  Tranent  parish,  and  the  traces  of  a  Roman 
road  from  Lauderdale  to  the  Forth,  have  been  destroyed 
or  removed.  There  are  still  extant  tumuli,  probably 
Caledonian,  in  Garvald  and  Innerwick  parishes,  and 
ti'aces  of  ancient  camps  in  Whittinghame,  Garvald, 
Innerwick,  Spott,  Salton,  and  Ormiston  parishes. 
Euins  and  vestiges  of  mediseval  towers  and  castles 
are  peculiarly  numerous  in  this  shire.  The  chief  are 
those  at  Dunbar,  Tantallon,  Innerwick,  and  Dirleton ; 
and  there  are  others  at  Prestonkirk,  Whittinghame, 
Garvald,  Herdmanston,  Redhouse,  Fenton,  Falside, 
Elphinstone,  Hailes,  and  Stoneypath.  The  'Goblin 
Hall, '  mentioned  in  Scott's  Marmion,  is  identified  in  an 
old  stronghold  of  Sir  Hugo  de  Gilford,  near  Yester 
House.  The  fortress  on  the  Bass  Rock  attained  a 
celebrity  as  the  prison  of  some  of  the  most  noted  Cove- 
nanters. The  ecclesiastical  remains  in  the  county  are 
deeply  interesting.  They  include  the  abbey  at  Had- 
dington, of  which  the  present  Nunraw  House  was  an 
appanage,  a  Cistercian  convent  at  North  Berwick,  and 
several  very  ancient  chapels  and  parish  churches,  that 
at  Pencaitland,  for  example,  being  said  to  date  from 
about  1213,  while  the  Collegiate  church  of  Seton  in 
Tranent  was  built  before  1390,  and  the  old  disused 
church  at  Gullane  was  abandoned  in  1612  for  a  newer 
one  at  Dirleton.  The  topographical  nomenclature  itself 
in  Haddingtonshire  affords  interesting  matter  of  study 
to  the  archfeologist  and  philologer. 

See  D.  Croal's  Sketches  of  East  Lothian  (Hadding. 
1873)  ;  R.  Scot-Skirving's  essaj'  on  '  The  Agriculture 
of  East  Lothian,'  in  vol.  v.  of  the  fourth  series  of  Trans. 
Highl.  and  Ag.  Soc.  (1873) ;  and  works  cited  under 
Bass,  Berwick  (North),  Duneak,  Haddington, 
Preston'pan.s,  Tranent,  and  Tyne. 

Haddo  House,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Aberdeen,  in 
210 


HAGGS  CASTLE 

Methlick  parish,  Aberdeenshire,  2  miles  SSE  of  Meth- 
lick  village,  6^  WNW  of  Ellon,  and  7  NE  of  Old  Mel- 
drum.  A  PaUadian  edifice  by  Baxter  of  Edinburgh 
(temp.  George  II.),  it  sufiered  considerable  damage  from 
a  fire  of  August  1881,  having  just  undergone  such  im- 
provements as  re-roofing,  the  redecoration  of  its  drawing 
room,  etc.  The  pictures  include  a  number  of  portraits 
by  La-^vrence;  but  the  gem  of  the  collection  is  Delaroche's 
portrait  of  Guizot  as  a  young  man,  presented  by  Guizot 
himself  to  that  fourth  Earl  (1784-1860),  who,  as  a  states- 
man, distinguished  himself  by  his  non-intervention 
policy.  The  park  and  policies,  more  than  1000  acres 
in  extent,  are  beautifully  wooded  with  Scotch  firs  of  great 
age,  spruce  and  hardwood  trees,  fine  limes,  and  foreign 
pines,  being  further  adorned  by  two  triangular  artificial 
lakes,  each  measuring  2§  fmdongs  by  1.  A  former 
'  Hous  of  Haddoche '  or  '  Place  of  Kellie  ' — '  whairon 
thair  was  no  roofe,  but  the  wallis  stronglie  built,  stand- 
ing on  volt' — was  forced  to  capitulate  to  6000  Cove- 
nanters under  the  Marquis  of  Argyll,  after  a  three  days' 
siege  (8  May  1644),  when  Sir  John  Gordon  of  Haddo, 
first  Bart.,  was  taken  to  Edinburgh  and  beheaded.  This 
affair  is  known  as  the  'Raid  of  Kellie.'  John-Campbell 
Hamilton-Gordon,  seventh  Earl  of  Aberdeen  and  Baron 
Haddo  since  1682  (b.  1847  ;  sue.  1870),  is  thirteenth  in 
descent  from  Patrick  Gordon,  who  v.'as  slain  at  the  battle 
of  Arbroath  (1446),  and  claims  to  represent  the  male 
line  of  the  Gordons,  whereas  the  other  noble  families 
of  the  name  succeeded  by  female  right.  (See  Gordon 
Castle.)  He  holds  in  Aberdeenshu'e  63,422  acres, 
valued  at  £40,766  per  annum. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  87,  1876. 

Haddo,  House  of,  an  estate,  with  a  good  mansion,  in 
Forgue  parish,  Aberdeenshire,  near  the  left  bank  of  the 
Burn  of  Forgue,  8  miles  NE  of  Huntly.  Its  late  pro- 
prietor, John  Forbes,  Esq.  (1794-18S0),  held  161  acres 
in  the  shire,  valued  at  £179  per  annum. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  86,  1876. 

Haddon.    See  Hadden. 

Haer,  a  moorish  tract  on  the  mutual  border  of  Blair- 
gowrie and  Lethendy  parishes,  Perthshire,  2J  miles  S 
of  Blairgowrie  town.  It  contained  a  great  number  of 
tumuli,  many  of  which,  being  destroyed  in  the  course 
of  modern  agricultural  improvements,  were  found  to 
contain  two  stone  coffins  and  great  quantities  of  human 
bones ;  hence  it  is  thought  to  have  been  the  scene  of 
some  great  unrecorded  battle. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  48, 
1868. 

Haerfaulds.    See  Guthrie. 

Hafton,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Dunoon  parish, 
Argyllshire,  near  the  SW  shore  of  Holy  Loch,  midway 
between  Sandbank  and  Hunter's  Quay,  and  2J  miles 
NNW  of  Kirn.  Built  in  the  first  half  of  the  present 
century  in  the  mixed  Gothic  style,  the  mansion  has 
beautiful  grounds  ;  its  owner.  Miss  Hunter,  who  .suc- 
ceeded her  second  brother  in  1880,  holds  5740  acres  in 
the  shire,  valued  at  £4569  per  annum. 

Hagghill.     See  Haghill. 

Haggs,  a  village  and  a  quoad  sacra  parish  in  Denny 
parish,  SE  Stirlingshire.  The  village,  f  mile  N  by  E 
of  Castlecary  station,  and  3 J  miles  SSW  of  Denny  town, 
is  conjoint  with  Lougcroft,  Parkfoot,  and  Denny-Loan- 
head  villages,  extending  IJ  mile  along  the  road  from 
Kilsyth  to  Falkirk.  It  acquired  in  1836  a  neat  row  of 
collier  cottages,  terminating  at  one  end  in  a  large  build- 
ing, intended  for  a  store.  'The  quoad  sacra  parish,  con- 
stituted in  1875,  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Studing  and 
synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling  ;  the  minister's  stipend  is 
£120.  The  church,  erected  as  a  chapel  of  ease  in  1840, 
presents  a  handsome  appearance,  and  contains  700 
sittings.  Pop.  of  registration  district  and  q.  s.  parish 
(1871)  1463,  (1881)  1600.— Ord.  Siir.,  sh.  31,  1867. 

Haggs  Castle,  a  baronial  fortalice  near  the  southern 
border  of  the  Renfrewshire  section  of  Govan  parish,  1 
mile  N  of  PoUokshaws.  Built  by  Sir  John  Maxwell  of 
PoLLOK  in  1585,  it  was  long  the  jointure  house  of  his 
descendants,  and  figures  in  connection  with  their  sufi'er- 
ings  for  adherence  to  the  Covenant.  Apparently  it  was 
a  structure  of  considerable  strength,  and  now  it  is  a 
picturesque  ruin. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  30,  1866. 


HAGHILL 

Haghill,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Shcttleston 
parish,  Lanarkshire,  f  mile  N  by  W  of  Parkhead 
station. 

Hagsthome,  a  village  in  Kilbirnie  parish,  Ayrshire, 
IJ  mUe  N  by  E  of  Dairy. 

Hailes,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  a  village,  and  a 
great  quarry,  on  the  NW  border  of  Colinton  parish, 
Edinburghshire.  In  1104  Edelrad,  Earl  of  Fife,  be- 
queathed the  lands  of  Hailes  to  the  Church  of  the  Holy 
Trinity  at  Dunfermline  ;  and  the  abbot  and  monks  of 
Dunfermline  retained  the  superiority  of  Easter  Hailes 
down  to  the  Reformation.  St  Cuthbert's  Church,  how- 
ever, of  Hailes  or  Colinton,  was  soon  transferred  to 
Holyrood  Abbey,  and  later,  in  1445,  to  the  Knight 
Templars'  Hospital  of  St  Anthony  at  Leith.  Hailes 
House,  above  the  left  bank  of  the  Water  of  Leith,  1 
mOe  SW  of  Slateford,  and  |  NW  of  Colinton  village,  is 
ihought  by  some  persons  to  occupy  the  site  of  the 
ancient  church,  and  is  the  property  of  the  Rev.  Sir  AV. 
Gibson-Carmichael,  Bart,  of  Castle-Craig.  Hailes  vil- 
lage, 3  furlongs  N  by  W,  stands  close  to  Kingsknowe 
station  on  the  Caledonian,  and  to  the  N  bank  of  the 
Union  Canal.  The  quarry,  near  it,  consists  of  dark 
grey  sandstone,  of  slaty  conformation,  easily  divisible 
into  blocks  for  steps  and  paving  flags.  During  the 
great  building  period  in  Edinburgh,  from  1820  to 
1826,  it  jielded  no  fewer  than  600  cart-loads  of  building 
stone  daily,  and  brought  its  landlord  £9000  a  year ; 
but  since  it  has  seldom  got  demand  for  more  than  60 
to  70  cart-loads  a  day. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  32,  1857. 

Hailes,  a  ruined  baronial  fortalice  in  Prestonkirk 
parish,  Haddingtonshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Tyne,  i\  miles  ENE  of  Haddington.  A  stronghold  of 
the  notorious  Earl  of  Bothwell,  it  was  the  first  place 
whither  he  brought  Queen  Mary,  after  seizing  her  at 
Fountainbridge  (24  April  1567) ;  afterwards  it  came  to 
the  Dalrymples  of  Hailes  ;  and  in  1S35  it  was  partially 
used  as  a  granary. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  33,  1863. 

Hailes,  New.    See  Newhailes. 

Hailes  Quarry.     See  Hailes,  Colinton. 

Haining  Castle.     See  Almond. 

Haining,  The,  a  mansion  in  Selkirk  parish,  Selkirk- 
shire, J  mile  S  by  W  of  the  to-ivn.  Standing  amid 
finely  wooded  grounds,  with  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water 
(2j  X 1  furl. ),  it  is  the  seat  of  Mrs  Pringle  Pattison 
(sue.  1868),  who  holds  4S00  acres  in  Selkirkshire  and 
2527  in  Roxburghshire,  valued  at  £3308  and  £1410  per 
annum.  The  estate  was  purchased  in  1702  by  her 
maternal  ancestor,  John  Pringle,  advocate,  who  in  1729 
was  admitted  a  lord  of  session  under  the  title  of  Lord 
Haining,  and  five  of  whose  descendants  sat  in  parliament 
for  Selkirkshire.— Or(«.  Sur.,  sh.  25,  1863. 

Hairlaw  Dam,  an  irregularly -shaped  reservoir  on  the 
mutual  border  of  Neilston  and  Mearns  parishes,  Renfrew- 
shire, 2^  miles  S  of  Neilston  village.  With  an  utmost 
length  and  breadth  of  5J  and  4J  fm-longs,  and  a  depth 
of  16  feet,  it  receives  a  rivulet  running  1 J  furlong  north- 
ward out  of  Long  Loch. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  22,  1865. 

Hairmyres,  a  station,  in  East  Kilbride  parish,  Lanark- 
shire, on  the  Glasgow,  IJusby,  and  East  Kilbride  railway, 
if  mile  W  by  S  of  East  Kilbride  village. 

Halbeath,  a  collier  village  in  Dunfermline  parish, 
Fife,  with  a  station  on  the  Dunfermline  and  Thornton 
section  of  the  North  British,  2  J  miles  ENE  of  Dunferm- 
line town ,  under  which  it  has  a  post  and  telegraph  ofSce. 
Pop.  (1861)  568,  (1871)  800,  (1881)  918.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
40,  1867. 

Halbom  Head.     See  Holburn  Head. 

Halbury  Castle.     See  Clyth. 

Halen,  a  quoad  sacra  parish  in  Duirinish  parish.  Isle 
of  Skye,  Inverness-shire.  It  comprises  the  peninsula 
of  Vaternish,  and  its  post-town  is  Portree.  Constituted 
by  the  Court  of  Teinds  in  July  1847,  it  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Skye  and  sjmod  of  Glenelg  ;  the  minister's 
stipend  is  £120,  with  a  manse  and  a  glebe  worth  each 
£11  a  year.     Pop.  (1871)  1068,  (1881)  1006. 

Half-Davoch,  a  place  with  a  public  school  of  1874  in 
Edinkillie  parish,  Elginshire,  3  miles  NNE  of  Duniphail 
station.     . 


HALKIRK 

Half-Morton,  a  Border  parish  of  SE  Dumfriesshire, 
containing  Chapelknowe  hamlet,  3  miles  NE  of  Kirk- 
patrick  station,  and  6  WSW  of  Canonbie,  under  which 
it  has  a  post  olBce.  The  ancient  parish  of  Morton,  com- 
prising the  present  parish  of  Half- Morton,  and  about  a 
third  of  what  now  is  Canonbie,  in  the  year  1621  waa 
annexed  in  its  eastern  half  to  Canonbie,  in  its  western 
half  to  Wauchope.  Wauchope,  in  turn,  was  subse- 
quently annexed  to  Langholm,  under  the  condition  that 
the  minister  of  Langholm  should  officiate  every  fourth 
Sunday  in  Half-Morton.  That  condition  fell  into 
neglect,  insomuch  that  during  twelve  years  prior  to 
1833  Half-Morton  had  no  parochial  ministry.  A  tem- 
porary arrangement  then  was  made,  that  an  assistant  to 
the  minister  of  Langholm  should  devote  his  whole 
time  to  Half-Morton  ;  and  this  arrangement  in  1839 
was  transmuted  into  a  permanent  recognition  of  Half- 
Morton  as  a  separate  parochial  charge.  The  present 
parish  is  bounded  N  by  Middlebie,  E  by  Canonbie,  SE 
by  Cumberland,  S  by  Gretna,  and  SW  and  W  by  Kirk- 
patrick-Fleming.  Its  utmost  length,  from  N  to  S,  is  3| 
miles  ;  its  utmost  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  is  3  miles  ;  and 
its  area  is  6100J  acres,  of  which  16 J  are  water.  Wood- 
side  or  AU-for-nought  Burn,  tracing  the  northern  boun- 
dary, and  Hall  Burn,  out  of  Canonbie,  unite  at  the  NE 
corner  of  the  parish  to  form  the  river  Sark,  which, 
winding  6i  miles  south-south-eastward  along  all  the 
Canonbie  and  Cumberland  border,  is  joined -by  wood- 
fringed  Cadgill  Burn  from  the  interior ;  whilst  another  of 
its  affluents,  the  Logan  or  Black  Sark,  after  traversing 
the  south-western  (district,  and  at  two  points  tracing 
the  western  and  south-western  boundary,  passes  off  into 
Gretna.  The  surface  sinks  in  the  extreme  SE  along  the 
Sark  below  Corries  Mill  to  95  feet  above  sea-level,  and 
rises  gently  thence  to  281  feet  near  Chapelknowe,  353 
near  Hillhead,  408  near  Cadgillhead,  458  near  Berclees, 
476  near  Solway  Bank,  and  500  near  Highstenries. 
The  rocks  are  Permian,  consisting  of  red  sandstone 
strata  ;  and  the  soil  is  much  of  it  of  fair  fertility.  Sir 
John  Heron  Maxwell  of  Springkell  is  chief  proprietor. 
Half-Morton  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Langholm  and  synod 
of  Dumfries ;  the  living  is  worth  £183.  The  parish 
chm-ch,  built  in  1744,  and  enlarged  in  1833,  contains 
212  sittings,  and  stands  7  furlongs  NE  of  Chapelknowe, 
a  little  nearer  which  is  a  Free  church  (1843  ;  250  sittings) ; 
whilst  at  Chapelknowe  itself  is  a  U.P.  chui'ch  (1822;  244 
sittings).  A  public  school,  with  accommodation  for  148 
children,  had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  83,  and 
a  grant  of  £57,  13s.  Valuation  (1860)  £3413,  (1883) 
£5439,  Os.  6d.  Pop.  (1801)  497,  (1831)  646,  (1861)  716, 
(1871)  611,  (1881)  497.— Ord  Sur.,  sh.  10,  1864. 

Haigreen,  a  large  castellated  pile  in  Bervie  parish, 
Kincardineshire,  on  an  eminence  near  the  sea,  at  the 
southern  extremity  of  Bervie  bm'gh.  Founded  in  1376, 
and  enlarged  at  subsequent  periods,  it  bears  above  a 
doorway  in  its  court  the  date  1687.  It  seems  to  have 
been  defended  by  a  moat,  with  drawbridge  and  port- 
cullis ;  has  very  thick  walls,  pierced  with  numerous 
arrow  slits ;  and  still  is  well  preserved,  being  the  seat 
of  James  Farquhar,  Esq.  (b.  1836  ;  sue.  1875),  who 
holds  1464  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £2389  per 
annum.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  67,  1871. 

Haigreen.     See  Canonbie. 

Halidean.     See  Bowden. 

Halin.     See  Halen. 

Halkerton  or  Haulkerton,  an  estate  in  Laurencekirk 
parish,  Kincardineshire,  1  mile  N  by  W  of  the  village. 
Held  by  the  Falconers  from  the  beginning  of  the  13th 
century,  it  gave  them  their  baronial  designation  from 
1647  ;  and  in  1778  the  eighth  Lord  Falconer  succeeded 
as  fifth  Earl  of  Kintore.  A  mansion,  now  extinct,  is 
represented  by  fine  old  trees  that  adorned  its  grounds. 

Halkirk,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  Caithness.  The 
village,  regularly  built,  stands  135  feet  above  sea-level, 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  Thurso,  j  mile  N  of 
Halkirk  station  on  the  Sutherland  and  Caithness  rail- 
way (1874),  this  station  being  IJ  mile  WSW  of  George- 
mas  Junction,  8^  S  by  E  of  Thurso,  and  154  WNW  of 
Wick.      It  has  a  post   office,  with  money  order  and 

241 


HALLADALE 

savings'  bank  departments  ;  a  fair  is  held  here  on  the 
third  Tuesday  of  Dec.  ;  and  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river,  J  mile  to  the  N,  stands  Thurso  Combination 
Poorhouse,  which,  bmlt  in  1855,  contain  accommoda- 
tion for  149  inmates.     Pop.  (1871)  391,  (1881)  372. 

The  parish  contains  also  Scotscalder  and  Altnabreac 
stations,  2f  and  12  miles  SW  of  Halkirk.  It  is  bounded 
N  by  Thurso,  NE  by  Thurso  and  Bower,  E  by  Watten, 
SE  and  S  by  Latheron,  and  W  by  Keay  and  a  detached 
portion  of  Thurso.  Its  utmost  length,  from  NNE  to 
SSW  is  21  §  miles ;  its  breadth  varies  between  3 J  and 
13  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  98,063f  acres,  of  which  2301 
are  water.  Of  fully  fifty  lakes  and  lakelets  the  larger, 
from  N  to  S,  are  Lochs  Caldee  (2f  mUes  x  7^  furl.  ; 
205;  feet),  Olginey  (5i  x  3  furl.  ;  235  feet),  Madie  (1 
mUe  X  3  furl.  ;  372  feet),  and  More  (SJ  x  4  furl.  ;  381 
feet).  Glut  or  Strathmore  Water,  rising  in  the  extreme 
SW  at  an  altitude  of  1400  feet,  winds  14^  miles  north- 
eastward to  Loch  More,  and,  issuing  thence  as  the  river 
Thurso,  continues  19  miles  north  -  north  -  eastward 
through  the  interior,  then  2J  miles  north-north-west- 
ward along  the  boundary  with  Thurso.  It  is  joined  in 
this  course  by  a  number  of  affluents,  and  drains  the 
greater  portion  of  the  parish,  whose  NW  border,  how- 
ever, is  traced  or  skirted  for  5  mUes  by  Forss  Water. 
The  surface,  which  sinks  to  70  feet  above  sea-level  along 
the  Thurso,  is  much  of  it  flat  and  monotonous,  the 
higher  points  of  the  northern  district  being  the  HiU  of 
Sour  (359  feet),  the  Hill  of  Calder  (306),  and,  on  the 
Watten  boundary,  Spital  Hill  (577) ;  but  to  the  SW, 
at  the  Latheron  and  Sutherland  borders,  rise  Ben 
Alisky  (1142)  and  the  Enockfin  Heights  (1442).  The 
rocks,  of  the  Old  Red  Sandstone  system,  furnish  plenty 
of  '  Caithness  flag '  for  home  use  and  exportation ;  lime- 
stone too  has  been  quarried,  and  marl  has  been  raised 
from  Calder  Loch ;  whilst  ironstone  and  lead  ore  are 
also  known  to  exist.  The  soil  ranges  from  clay  or  loam 
mixed  with  moss  to  gravel  resting  on  a  cold  rocky 
bottom,  being  mostly  wet  and  difficult  to  dry  ;  still, 
great  improvements  have  been  eff'ected  in  the  way  of 
reclamation  and  building,  Col.  Guthrie  alone  having 
nearly  trebled  the  rental  of  his  property  in  thirty  years. 
Little  more  than  a  tenth  of  the  entire  area  is  under 
cultivation,  by  far  the  greater  part  being  moor  or  flow- 
moss.  The  arable  holdings  are  for  the  most  part  small ; 
the  sheep  farms,  on  the  other  hand,  are  large.  Several 
'  Picts'  houses '  and  standing  stones  are  dotted  over  the 
parish,  in  which  stood  two  pre-Eeformation  chapels, 
and  special  features  of  which  are  noticed  separately 
under  Aohavabn,  Beaal,  Dielet,  and  Loohmoee. 
Five  proprietors  holds  each  an  annual  value  of  £500 
and  upwards,  2  of  between  £100  and  £500,  and  2  of 
from  £20  to  £50.  The  present  parish  comprises  the 
two  ancient  parishes  of  Halkirk  and  Skinnet.  Skinnet 
church  was  dedicated  to  St  Thomas,  and  that  of  Halkirk 
to  St  Fergus,  a  Pictish  bishop  of  Ireland,  who  came  to 
Caithness  in  the  8th  century.  It  is  in  the  presbytery 
of  Caithness  and  synod  of  Sutherland  and  Caithness ; 
the  living  is  worth  £327.  The  parish  church,  at  the 
village,  was  built  in  1753,  and,  as  enlarged  in  1833, 
contains  756  sittings.  A  Free  church  stands  2J  mUes 
S  of  the  station  ;  and  sis  public  schools — Calder,  Hal- 
kirk North,  Harpsdale,  Leurery,  Spital,  and  Westerdale 
— with  total  accommodation  for  582  children,  had  (1881) 
an  average  attendance  of  260,  and  grants  amounting  to 
£294,  17s.  Valuation  (1860)  £9622,  (1883)£16,639,  9s., 
of  which  nearly  two-fifths  are  held  by  Sir  John  G.  Tolle- 
mache  Sinclair  of  Ulbster.  Pop.  (1801)  2545,  (1841) 
2963,  (1861)  2864,  (1871)  2664,  (1881)  2705,  of  whom 
253  were  returned  as  'Gaelic-speaking.' — Ord.  Sur.,  shs. 
116,  117,  109,  110,  1877-78. 

Halladale,  a  river  of  Eeay  parish,  NE  Sutherland. 
Rising  at  an  altitude  of  1200  feet  above  sea-level,  close 
to  the  Caithness  border  and  4J  miles  SSE  of  Forsinard 
station,  it  runs  22J  mUes  north-north-westward  and 
northward  along  Strath  Halladale  between  ranges  of 
hills,  500  to  747  feet  high,  till  it  falls  into  the  North 
Sea  at  the  Bay  of  Boghouse,  to  the  E  of  Portskerry 
village.  Dyke  Water  is  chief  of  its  many  tributaries ;  its 
242 


HALLYBUETON  HOUSE 

current  is  rapid  till  within  3  miles  of  its  mouth,  below 
which  point  it  forms  a  chain  of  about  ten  pools,  being 
tidal  over  the  last  2  miles,  yet  navigable  only  by  boats. 
Its  waters  contain  salmon,  large  sea-trout,  and  river 
trout ;  but  the  fishing — always  uncertain — is  rarely 
much  worth  except  in  spring.  Tradition  records  that 
Halladha,  son  of  Rognward,  first  Jarl  of  Orkney,  was 
slain  and  buried  in  Strath  Halladale,  to  which  he  be- 
queathed his  name.  The  scene  of  the  battle  is  towards 
the  middle  of  the  strath,  near  Dal-Halladha. — Ord.  Sur., 
shs.  109,  115,  1878. 

Hallbar  Tower.    See  Beaidwood. 

Hallcraig,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Carluke 
parish,  Lanarkshire,  2  miles  W  by  S  of  the  town. 

Halleath,  a  mansion  in  Lochmaben  parish,  Dumfries- 
shire, on  the  right  bank  of  the  Annan,  If  mile  E  by  S 
of  the  town.  Enlarged  by  David  Bryce  in  1866,  it  is 
the  property  of  John  Johnstone,  Esq.  (b.  1820),  who 
holds  2122  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £2734  per 
annum. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  10,  1864. 

Hallforest,  a  ruined  castle  in  Eintore  parish,  Aber- 
deenshire, 1^  mile  WSW  of  Eintore  town.  Said  to 
have  been  buUt  as  a  hunting-seat  by  Eing  Robert  Bruce, 
and  by  him  to  have  been  granted  to  Sir  Robert  de  Eeith, 
great  marischal  of  Scotland,  it  came  to  his  descendants, 
the  Earls  of  Eintore,  and  in  1562  received  a  visit  from 
Queen  Mary.  It  was  chiefly  a  battlemented  tower  four 
stories  high,  and  now  retains  two  very  lofty  arched 
apartments,  one  above  the  other. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  76, 
1874. 

Hallgreen.    See  Halgeeen  and  Canonbib. 

Hallguards,  a  romantic  spot  at  the  W  border  of  Hod- 
dom  parish,  Dumfriesshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river 
Annan,  2  mUes  WSW  of  Ecclefechan.  Here  stood  the 
original  Hoddom  Castle,  which  is  said  to  have  been  a 
seat  of  the  royal  Bruces,  and  was  demolished  some 
centuries  ago  in  terms  of  a  Border  treaty. 

Hallhead,  an  estate,  with  a  decayed  mansion  of  1688, 
in  Leochel  and  Cushnie  parish,  Aberdeenshire,  54  mUes 
WNW  of  Lnmphanan  station.     It  belongs  to  the  owner 

of  ESSLEMONT. 

Hallhill,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Glassford 
parish,  Lanarkshire,  2  miles  NE  of  Strathaven.  An 
ancient  baronial  fortalice,  near  the  site  of  the  mansion, 
contained  an  arch  so  spacious  that  a  hundred  men  could 
be  arrayed  beneath  it ;  but,  falling  into  ruin,  was  taken 
down  about  1828,  and  then  was  found  to  contain  frag- 
ments of  very  beautiful  china,  with  other  relics. 

Hallin.    See  Halen. 

Hallodale.    See  Halladale. 

Hallrule,  a  mansion  in  Hobkirk  parish,  Roxburgh- 
shire, near  the  left  bank  of  Rule  Water,  8  mUes  E  of 
Hawick.     It  is  included  in  the  Wells  estate. 

Hallside  House,  a  mansion  in  Cambuslang  parish, 
Lanarkshu-e,  near  the  left  bank  of  the  Rotten  Cal- 
der, IJ  mile  ESE  of  the  town.  It  was  built  by  Prof. 
George  Jardine,  of  Glasgow  University  (1742-1827),^  and 
later  was  for  some  time  occupied  by  Prof.  John  Wilson 
(1785-1854).  Hallside  village,  J  mUe  distant,  is  of 
recent  origin,  having  arisen  in  connection  with  large 
steel-works.  Pop.  (1881)  955.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  31, 
1867. 

Hallyards,  an  old-fashioned  mansion  in  Manor  parish, 
Peeblesshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  Manor  Water,  3  miles 
SW  of  Peebles.  During  the  close  of  last  and  the  begin- 
ning of  the  present  century  it  was  tenanted  for  fourteen 
years  by  Prof.  Adam  Ferguson  (1724-1816),  historian  of 
the  Roman  Republic,  who  here  in  1797  received  a  visit 
from  Sir  Walter  Scott,  and,took  him  to  see  the  '  Black 
Dwarf '—Orrf.  Sicr.,  sh.  24,  1864. 

Hallyards,  a  ruined  mansion  in  Auchtertool  parish, 
Fife,  1 J  mile  SE  of  Lochgelly.  A  seat  of  the  Eirkcaldys 
of  Grange,  it  gave  a  night's  lodging  to  James  V.  on  his 
way  to  Falkland  after  the  defeat  of  Solway  Moss  (1542) ; 
and  it  is  said  to  have  been  the  rendezvous  of  the  lead- 
ing Fife  Jacobites  at  the  rebellion  of  1715. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  40,  1867. 

Hallyburton  House,  a  mansion  in  Eettins  parish,  For- 
farshire, 3  miles  ESE  of  Coupar- Angus.     It  is  the  seat  of 


HALMYEE  HOUSE 

Eobert  Stewart  Menzies,  Esq.  of  Pitcur  (b.  1856 ;  sue. 
1880),  whose  father  houglit  the  estate  from  the  Marquis 
of  Huntly  in  1879.— Oed.  Sur  ,  sh.  48,  1863. 

Halmyre  House,  a  16th  century  mansion,  handsomely 
renovated  in  1858,  in  Newlands  parish,  Peeblesshire,  3 
miles  SW  of  Leadburn  station.  Purchased  in  1808  for 
ill6,000,  the  estate  is  now  the  property  of  Charles 
Terrier  Gordon,  Esq.,  who  holds  4827  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £2049  per  annum. 

Haltstanedean.    See  Hassendean. 
K         Halyburton.     See  Hallybukton. 

Halyhill.     See  Forteviot. 

Hamer.     See  Whitekikk. 

Hamilton,  a  royal,  parliamentary,  and  police  burgh, 
and  a  parish  in  the  middle  ward  of  Lanarkshire.  The 
town  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  pleasantly  diversified 
region,  sloping  on  the  whole  to  the  east-north-eastward, 
and  about  1  mUe  WSW  of  the  junction  of  the  Avon  and 
the  Clyde.  It  stands  adjacent  to  the  Glasgow,  Hamil- 
ton, and  Strathaven  railway,  2  miles  WSW  of  the  rail- 
way junction  at  Motherwell,  9|  miles  by  railway  and 
lOi  by  road  SE  of  Glasgow,  and  36  by  road  WSW  of 
Edinburgh.  The  environs  present  a  pretty  undulating 
landscape,  with  fine  woods  and  picturesque  dells  through 
which  three  burns  run  to  the  Clyde  and  six  to  the  Avon. 
The  outskirts  are  extensive,  and  comprise  numerous 
handsome  villas  and  mansions,  besides  remains  of  older 
historical  houses.  The  original  town  occupied  a  site 
within  the  Duke  of  Hamilton's  park,  to  the  ENE  of  the 
present  position,  and  bore  the  name  of  Netherton.  The 
oldest  parts  of  the  present  town  stand  near  the  public 
green,  and  date  from  the  early  part  of  the  15th  century, 
but  they  have  undergone  considerable  improvement  in 
more  modern  times.  The  main  thoroughfare  of  the 
newer  part,  a  street  about  700  yards  long,  was  laid  out  in 
1835,  and  is  carried  60  feet  above  the  bed  of  Cadzow 
Burn  by  Cadzow  bridge,  which  is  supported  on  3  spans 
of  60  feet  each.  The  suburbs,  though  well-built,  are 
somewhat  straggling  and  irregular  in  plan.  The  Burgh 
Buildings  were  erected  near  the  centre  of  the  town  in 
1861-63.  They  are  buUt  in  the  modernised  Scotch 
Baronial  style,  with  a  clock-tower  nearly  130  feet  high  ; 
and  they  contain  a  public  hall  63  feet  long  by  36 
wide,  besides  smaller  halls  and  olficial  apartments.  The 
County  Buildings,  classical  in  style,  stand  upon  high 
ground  towards  the  W  end  of  the  tovra.  Originally 
founded  in  June  1834,  they  have  been  subsequently  en- 
larged ;  and  they  contain  a  county  hall  besides  various 
county  ofiices.  Immediately  adjacent  is  the  prison  (dis- 
used since  1882),  which,  with  an  airing  ground  of  half  an 
acre,  is  surrounded  by  a  high  wall.  Erected  at  the 
same  time  as  the  County  Buildings,  it  superseded  the 
older  prison,  which  stood  in  the  lower  part  of  the  town, 
now  included  in  the  ducal  park.  This  old  prison  is 
adorned  with  a  steeple,  and  dates  from  the  time  of 
Charles  I.  ;  it  was  dismantled  about  1834,  but  in  1S61 
was  repaired  by  the  Duke  of  Hamilton.  The  Trades'  Hall 
was  built  in  1816  ;  became  prior  to  1865  the  property 
of  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association  ;  and  is  now 
used  for  meetings  and  as  a  reading-room.  The  barracks, 
formerly  used  for  cavalry,  but  now  solely  for  infantry, 
stand  near  the  County  BuUdings,  and  occupy  a  large 
space  of  ground  enclosed  by  a  high  wall.  The  railway 
from  Glasgow  and  Strathaven  has  its  terminus  at  Hamil- 
ton in  the  new  Central  station,  from  which  also  runs 
the  Lesmahagow  line  ;  and  the  Bothwell  and  Hamilton 
station  occupies  a  spacious  site  nearly  opposite  the 
Roman  Catholic  church.  The  corporation  gas-work 
was  erected  in  1831  at  a  cost  of  £2400,  and  is  on  an 
elegant  plan.  A  water  supply  by  gravitation  was  in- 
troduced into  the  town,  under  authority  of  Act  of  Par- 
liament in  1853. 

The  parish  church  occupies  a  site  upon  high  ground, 
and,  though  originally  beyond  the  town  to  the  S,  is  now 
embraced  by  the  town  extension.  It  was  bmlt  in  1732 
from  designs  by  the  elder  Adam,  and  consists  of  a  cir- 
cular body  with  four  cross  aisles,  and  has  a  fine  stained 
glass  window  by  the  Messrs  BaUantine,  representing  oirr 
Lord  and  Martha  and  Mary,  placed  there  in  1876  in 


HAMILTON 

memory  of  Mrs  James  Stevenson.  It  contains  about  800 
sittings.  Auchingramont  Established  church  was  built 
in  1860,  has  900  sittings,  and  ranks  as  a  collegiate 
charge  with  the  parish  church,  the  two  ministers  preach- 
ing alternately  in  the  two  churches.  The  stipends  of  these 
two  churches  are  the  same,  viz.,  £412  ;  but  the  former 
has  a  glebe  of  36  acres,  valued  at  £82,  and  the  latter  a 
manse,  valued  at  £30.  Cadzow  quoad  sacra  church,  con- 
taining 800  sittings,  was  built  in  1876-77  at  a  cost  con- 
siderably exceeding  the  estimate,  £4000.  St  John's  Free 
church  is  a  modem  edifice  with  1000  sittings.  Burnbank 
Free  church,  erected  in  1875  at  a  cost  of  nearly  £3000, 
contained  600  sittings,  and  was  built  for  the  use  of  the 
mining  population  of  Greenfield  and  other  villages.  It 
was,  however,  pulled  down,  and  its  site  occupied  by  the 
new  West  Free  church,  which  was  opened  in  May  1882, 
and  provides  accommodation  for  660,  at  a  cost  of  £4000. 
Its  style  is  14th  century  Gothic,  and  the  spire  is  100 
feet  high.  There  are  four  United  Presbyterian  churches 
in  Hamilton,  containing  respectively  1105,  940,  700, 
and  582  sittings.  The  memorial-stone  of  a  fifth  was 
laid  at  Burnbank  on  2  Dec.  1882.  Built  at  a  cost  of 
over  £3000,  and  seating  562,  this  is  an  Early  Gothic 
edifice  with  a  spire  127  feet  high.  The  Congregational 
chapel,  a  neat  Gothic  building  with  362  sittings,  was 
built  in  1872  at  a  cost  of  £1400,  to  supersede  a  former 
chapel  in  Campbell  Street.  The  Evangelical  Union 
chapel  contains  250  sittings,  and  St  Mary's  Roman 
Catholic  church,  buUt  in  1846,  has  500.  The  Episcopal 
church,  dedicated  to  St  Mary,  is  an  Early  Pointed  struc- 
ture of  1849,  and  can  accommodate  330  hearers.  The 
burgh  school  board  consists  of  a  chairman  and  eight 
members.  In  Sept.  1881  the  following  were  the  five 
schools  under  the  burgh  school  board,  with  accommoda- 
tion, average  attendance,  and  government  grant : — Beck- 
ford  Street  public  (350, 336,  £300, 19s. ) ;  Townhead  public 
(400,  362,  £316,  15s.);  Orphan  and  Charity  (365,  312, 
£262) ;  St  John's  Free  church  (618,  586,  £605,  4s. ) ;  and 
St  Mary's  Roman  Catholic  (304,  409,  £327,  4s.).  The 
academy  is  an  old  foundation,  and  till  1714  stood  near  the 
old  churchyard  adjoining  the  palace.  It  was  rebuilt  by 
Anne,  Duchess  of  Hamilton,  in  Grammar  Square,  and 
again  in  1848  removed  to  a  new  site.  It  includes  a 
rector's  residence,  with  room  for  10  or  12  boarders. 
Other  schools  are  St  John's  grammar  school  for  boys,  a 
boarding-school  for  girls,  and  several  adventure  schools. 
The  Mechanics'  Institute  was  founded  in  1846,  and  has 
a  library.  The  Subscription  Library,  estabUslied  in 
1808  chiefly  through  the  exertions  of  Dr  John  Hume, 
is  now  extinct.  The  Duke's  Hospital  is  an  old  buUd 
ing,  with  a  belfry  and  bell,  situated  at  the  Cross,  and 
erected  in  lieu  of  the  former  one,  which  stood  in  the 
Netherton.  The  pensioners  do  not  now  reside  here ; 
but  it  contributes  to  the  support  of  a  dozen  old  men,  at 
the  rate  of  £8,  18s.  yearly,  with  a  suit  of  clothes 
biennially.  Aikman's  Hospital  in  Muir  Street,  was 
built  and  endowed  in  1775,  by  Mr  Aikman,  a  proprietor 
in  the  parish,  and  formerly  a  merchant  in  Leghorn. 
Four  old  men  are  here  lodged,  have  £4  per  annum,  and 
a  suit  of  clothes  every  two  years.  Rae's,  Robertson's, 
and  Lyon's,  and  Miss  Christian  Allan's  mortifications 
also  produce  considerable  sums  for  the  support  of  the 
poor,  and  some  other  funds  have  been  placed  at  the 
disposal  of  the  kirk-session  for  similar  purposes.  Other 
institutions  are  a  choral  union,  an  agricultural  society, 
an  auxiliary  Bible  society,  and  a  variety  of  economical, 
philanthropic,  religious,  and  other  associations.  Besides 
a  savings'  bank  at  the  post  office,  Hamilton  contains 
branches  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland,  British  Linen  Com- 
pany's Bank,  the  Clydesdale,  Commercial,  Royal,  and 
Union  Banks,  and  29  insurance  companies  are  repre- 
sented by  agents  or  ofiices  within  the  town.  The  Hamil- 
ton Advertiser  (1856)  is  published  every  Saturday. 

Hamilton,  though  it  carries  on  a  large  amount  of 
local  trade,  has  no  manufactures  of  importance.  A 
manufacture  of  lace  was  early  introduced  by  one  of 
the  duchesses  of  Hamilton,  afterwards  Ducbess  of 
Argyll,  who  brought  over  a  native  of  France  to  teacb 
it ;   and,   as  it  was   esteemed,   in  the   circumstances, 

243 


EAIVIILTON 

fully  more  a  noble  than  a  plebeian  thing,  many  re- 
spectable females,  who  had  no  need  of  it  as  an 
avocation,  became  pupils  and  workers.  The  Hamilton 
lace  was  long  in  repute  among  the  higher  classes,  but 
eventually  went  out  of  fashion.  But  about  1835  the 
manufacture  of  a  sort  of  tamboured  bobinette  was  in- 
troduced as  a  substitute  for  it ;  and  this  rose  suddenly 
into  such  importance  that  within  eight  years  upwards 
of  2500  females  in  the  town  or  neighbourhood  were 
employed  upon  it.  The  making  of  check  shirts  for  the 
colonial  market,  and  the  making  of  black  silk  veils  of 
peculiar  patterns,  also  rose  rapidly  into  importance. 
The  imitation  of  cambric  weaving  of  the  finest  kinds 
took  its  chief  seat  at  Hamilton  after  the  introduction  of 
the  cotton  trade  into  Scotland ;  and  it  prospered  so 
much  that  whole  streets  of  houses  were  built  to  accom- 
modate the  industrious  weavers,  no  fewer  than  about 
1250  looms  being  in  the  town  ;  but  about  1815  or  1820 
it  began  to  decline,  and  not  many  years  afterwards  it 
reached  a  point  where  it  could  yield  a  sustenance  only  a 
degree  or  two  above  starvation.  Now,  however,  the 
industries  of  the  town  include  some  cotton-weaving, 
coach-building,  iron  and  brass  founding,  besides  the 
ordinary  handicrafts. 

Hamilton  was  made  a  burgh  of  barony  in  1456,  and  a 
royal  bui-gh  in  1548.  Subsequently  it  resigned  its 
rights  and  privileges  as  a  royal  burgh,  and  was  created 
a  burgh  of  regality  in  1668  by  charter  of  Charles  II.  to 
Anna,  Duchess  of  Hamilton.  After  the  Reform  Act  of 
1832  it  became  a  parliamentary  burgh.  Prior  to  1871 
it  adopted  the  General  Police  and  Improvement  Act  of 
1862,  and  in  1878  the  municipal  burgh  was  extended. 
It  is  governed  by  a  provost,  4  bailies,  a  treasurer,  and 
10  councillors.  The  corporation  income  was  (1832) 
£654,  (1865)  £1237,  and  (1882)  £7324.  The  burgh 
police  force  numbers  19  men,  the  superintendent  receiv- 
ing a  salary  of  £110.  The  burgh  unites  with  Falkirk, 
Airdrie,  Lanark,  and  Linlithgow  in  returning  one  mem- 
ber to  parliament.  In  1883  the  parliamentary  consti- 
tuency was  1518,  and  the  municipal  1756  (including 
238  females).  Sheriff  courts  are  held  at  Hamilton  every 
Tuesday  and  Friday  for  ordinary  business  ;  and  for  smaU- 
debt  business  every  Friday.  Small-debt  justice  of  peace 
courts  are  held  every  Monday,  and  the  magistrates  sit 
in  the  burgh  court  as  required.  A  weekly  market  is 
held  on  Friday,  and  special  markets  for  cattle  and 
hiring  are  held  on  the  third  Fridays  of  April  and 
October.  Valuation,  including  railways  (1872), 
£30,020,  (1876)  £37,195,  (1882-83)  £76,900.  Pop. 
of  parliamentary  burgh  (1841),  8724,  (1851)  9630, 
(1861)  10,688,  (1871)  11,498,  (1881)  13,995,  of  whom 
6988  were  females.  Pop.  of  police  burgh  and  town 
(1871)  11,498,  (1881)  18,517,  of  whom  9066  were 
females  and  22  Gaelic-speaking.  Houses  (1881)  in- 
habited 3557,  vacant  653,  building  65. 

Cadzow  Castle  was  the  original  capital  of  Hamilton 
parish,  and  gave  name  to  it  till  1445,  when,  in  virtue 
of  a  charter  from  James  II.  to  the  first  Lord  Hamilton, 
the  present  name  superseded  the  older  one  of  Cadyhou, 
Cadyow,  or  Cadzow.  Soon  afterwards  the  old  town  of 
Netherton  came  to  be  called  Hamilton  also.  Queen 
Mary,  on  her  way  from  Loch  Leven  Castle  to  Langside, 
held  a  court  at  Cadzow  Castle,  and  rested  at  a  spot  in 
the  town  still  called  Queenzie  Neuk.  The  forces 
appointed  by  Cromwell  to  overawe  the  West  of  Scotland 
in  1650,  took  post  at  Hamilton  under  General  Lambert. 
There  they  sustained  a  momentary  defeat  from  a  force 
of  1500  Covenanters  from  Ayrshire,  and  General  Lam- 
bert was  captured  before  his  men,  sallying,  repulsed  the 
attack.  Cromwell  himself,  on  visiting  the  town,  lodged 
at  the  King's  Head  Inn,  now  demolished.  The  victors 
at  the  Battle  of  Drumclog,  both  before  and  after  their 
advance  towards  Glasgow,  marched  to  Hamilton  ;  and 
the  more  moderate  of  them  drew  up  a  defence  in  explana- 
tion of  their  conduct,  which  came  to  be  known  as  the 
'Hamilton  Declaration.'  The  fugitives  from  the  battle 
of  Bothwell  Bridge,  fought  IJ  mile  NNW,  fled  in  all 
directions  through  the  parish  of  Hamilton,  where  1200 
were  captured.  Many  escaped  through  hiding  in  the 
244 


HAMILTON 

woods  of  Hamilton  Park,  where  they  were  generously 
protected  by  Anne,  Duchess  of  Hamilton.  William 
CuUen,  M.D.  (1710-90),  was  a  native  of  Hamilton; 
Thomas,  Lord  Cochrane,  tenth  Earl  of  Dundonald  (1775- 
1860),  author  oi  Autobiography  of  a  Seaman,  spent  many 
of  his  early  years  in  the  neighbourhood ;  and  John 
Anderson  (1789-1832)  resided  at  Hamilton  from  1819, 
and  wrote  Historical  ami  Genealogical  Memoirs  of  the 
Hamiltons  (2 -vols. ,  1825-27).  The  father  of  Professor 
Millar  of  Glasgow,  and  the  father  of  Dr  Baillie  and 
Joanna  BaiUie,  were  ministers  of  Hamilton. 

The  parish  of  Hamilton,  situated  in  the  middle  ward 
of  Lanarkshire,  is  bounded  on  the  N  by  Bothwell,  on 
the  NE  and  E  by  Dalziel,  on  the  SE  by  Dalserf,  on  the 
S  by  Stonehouse,  on  the  SW  by  Glassford,  on  the  W  by 
Glassford  and  Blantyre,  and  on  the  NW  by  Blantyre. 
Its  longest  axis  extends  6  miles  from  NNW  to  SSE ; 
its  greatest  breadth,  at  right  angles  to  that,  is  5J  miles ; 
and  its  total  area  is  14,243  acres,  of  which  160  are 
water.  The  Clyde  traces  the  NE  and  N  border  for 
nearly  5  miles ;  the  Avon  has  a  course  of  3 J  miles  along 
the  ESE  of  the  parish,  to  a  confluence  with  the  Clyde 
about  a  mile  from  the  town  ;  and  nine  bums  rise  on  or 
near  the  S  or  W  border,  and  run  mostly  NE,  six  to  the 
Avon  and  three  to  the  Clyde.  The  N  district,  forming 
a  broad  band  along  the  Clyde,  is  a  low  sheltered  valley ; 
the  middle  district,  traversed  by  the  Avon,  is  diversified 
and  beautiful ;  while  the  southern  district  rises  gradu- 
ally to  elevations  of  from  580  to  750  feet  above  sea- 
level.  The  rocks  are  extensively  of  the  Carboniferous 
formation.  Sandstone  is  raised  in  several  quarries, 
limestone  is  worked  at  Earnockmuir  and  Boghead,  and 
ironstone  at  Boghead  and  Quarter.  By  far  the  most 
important  mineral  is  coal,  the  excavation  of  which 
affords  occupation  to  a  very  large  number  of  the  popula- 
tion. There  are  coal  mines  at  Merriton,  High  Merriton, 
Dykehead,  Bog,  AUanton,  Ferniegair,  Haughhead, 
Quarter,  and  Greenfield.  The  soil  on  the  low  grounds 
is  for  the  most  part  alluvial  or  loam  ;  on  the  higher 
districts  gravelly  or  moorland.  About  8000  acres  are 
arable,  100  are  in  orchards,  2000  under  wood,  2100 
occupied  by  water,  towns,  and  roads,  and  the  remainder 
pasture  or  waste  land.  The  chief  industry  is  coal 
mining,  though  of  course  farming  occupies  many  hands. 
The  other  industries  are  mentioned  in  connection  with 
the  town. 

Hamilton  is  the  only  burgh  ;  the  parish  also  contains 
the  villages  of  Allanton,  Darngaber,  Ferniegair,  Quar- 
ter, and  Low  Waters ;  and  parts  of  the  towns  of 
Motherwell  and  Larkhall.  The  chief  proprietor  in  the 
parish  is  the  Duke  of  Hamilton,  besides  whom  16  pro- 
prietors hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards, 
87  of  between  £100  and  £500,  105  of  from  £50  to  £100, 
and  160  of  from  £20  to  £50.  The  chief  seats  are 
Hamilton  Palace,  Earnock  House,  Grovemount,  Ross, 
Fairhill,  Nielsland,  Fairholm,  and  Edlewood.  Other 
mansions,  once  of  note,  are  Allanshaw,  Darngaber,  Merri- 
ton, and  Udston.  The  chief  antiquities  are  those  in 
Hamilton  town  and  park,  and  Cadzow  Castle,  Darngaber 
Castle,  Barncluith  Gardens,  Meilde  Earnock  tumulus, 
and  an  oblique  standing  stone  in  the  S  of  the  parish 
called  the  'Crooked  Stane.'  Hamilton  is  in  the  synod 
of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  and  gives  name  to  a  presbytery. 
Besides  the  churches  mentioned  above,  there  is  a  chapel 
of  ease  at  Quarter.  In  Sept.  1881  the  following  were 
the  6  public  schools  under  the  landward  school-board, 
with  their  respective  accommodation,  average  attend- 
ance, and  government  grants, — Beechfield  (150,  43, 
£35,  8s.),  Ferniegair  (250,  136,  £96,  10s.  1,  Greenfield 
(655,  501,  £424,  7s.),  Low  Waters  (431,  305,  £266, 
17s.  6d.),  Motherwell  (250,  307,  £262,  Is.),  and  Quarter 
(250,   236,    £216,    9s.).       Valuation    (1860)    £36,243, 

(1880)  £88,204,  (1883)  £113,752.  Pop.  of  civil  parish 
(1801)  5911,  (1831)  7613,  (1841)  10,862,  (1871)  16,803, 

(1881)  26,231,  of  whom  18,645  were  in  Hamilton  ecclesij 
astical  parish,  7163  in  Cadzow,  63  in  Chapelton,  and  360 
in  Larkhall.— Ore?.  Sur.,  sh.  23,  1865. 

The  Established  presbytery  of  Hamilton  comprises 
the  14  ancient  parishes  of  Avon  dale,  Blantyre,  Both- 


HAMILTON  PALACE 

well,  Camliuslang,  Cambusnethan,  Dalscrf,  Dalziel, 
Glassford,  Hamilton,  East  Kilbride,  New  Monkland, 
Old  Monkland,  Shotts,  and  Stonehouse  ;  the  22  quoad 
sacra  parishes  of  Airdrie,  BaiUieston,  Bargeddie,  Bells- 
hill,  Burnbank,  Cadzow,  Calderhead,  Chapelton,  Clark- 
ston,  Cleland,  Coats,  Coltness,  Dalziel  Sonth,  Flowerhill, 
Gartsherrie,  Garturk,  Harthill,  Holytown,  Larkhall, 
Overtown,  Uddingston,  and  Wishaw ;  and  the  6  cha- 
pelries  of  Calderbank,  Greengairs,  Meadowfield,  Quarter, 
Stouefield,  and  East  Strathaven.  Pop.  (1871)  159,255, 
(18S1)  204,720,  of  whom  18,608  were  communicants  of 
the  Church  of  Scotland  in  1878.— The  Free  Church 
presbytery  comprises  4  churches  in  Airdrie,  3  in  Coat- 
bridge, 2  In  Hamilton,  and  20  others  at  BaiUieston, 
Bellshill,  Blantyre,  Bothwell,  Cambuslang,  Cambus- 
nethan, Chapelhall,  Chapelton,  Cleland,  Dalziel,  East 
Kilbride,  Greengairs,  Holytown,  Larkhall,  Shotts,  Stone- 
house,  Strathaven,  Uddingston,  Whifflet,  and  Wishaw, 
which  29  churches  together  had  7524  members  in  1881-82. 
— The  U.P.  presbytery  of  Hamilton  has  5  churches  at 
Hamilton,  3  at  Strathaven,  2  at  Motherwell,  and  10 
others  at  Bellshill,  Blantyre,  Cambuslang,  East  Kil- 
bride, Hallside,  Kirkmuirhill,  Larkhall,  Newarthill, 
Stonehouse,  and  Wishawtown,  which  20  churches  to- 
gether had  6383  members  in  1881-82. 

Hamilton  Palace,  a  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Hamilton, 
is  situated  in  the  parish  of  Hamilton,  on  low  ground 
between  the  town  of  that  name  and  the  river  Clyde. 
The  site  of  the  old  part  of  the  town  called  Netherton  is 
partly  included  within  the  walls  of  the  park  ;  and  even 
yet  the  houses  of  Hamilton  approach  the  palace  near 
enough  almost  to  intrude  upon  its  privacy.  The  germ 
of  the  structure  was  a  small  square  tower,  but  the 
oldest  part  of  the  present  palace  was  erected  about 
1591,  while  a  very  large  addition  was  made  in  1705. 
This  erection,  described  by  Dorothy  Wordsworth  in 
1803  as  '  a  large  building  without  grandeur,  a  heavy 
lumpish  mass,'  was  further  added  to  in  1822  and  sub- 
sequent years,  and  is  now  one  of  the  most  magni- 
ficent piles  in  the  kingdom.  It  comprises  a  N  front 
265  feet  long  and  60  high,  adorned  with  a  splendid 
Corinthian  portico  of  monolithic  columns  25  feet  high 
and  10  in  circumference,  modelled  after  the  temple  of 
Jupiter  Stator  at  Eome.  The  interior  is  planned  on  a 
scale  of  equal  magnificence.  The  principal  apartments 
are  the  tribune  or  saloon,  the  dining-room,  71  feet  by 
30,  the  library  built  to  contain  the  famous  Beckford 
collection,  and  a  gallery  120  feet  long,  20  wide,  and  20 
high.  The  treasures  of  art  in  cabinets  and  furniture, 
pictures,  statuary,  china,  and  glass,  which,  till  1882, 
filled  and  adorned  the  princely  rooms  of  the  palace, 
formed  the  most  splendid  assemblage  of  the  kind  in  Scot- 
land. This  collection  was  made  chiefly  in  the  early 
years  of  the  19th  century  by  Alexander,  the  tenth  duke, 
and  his  father-in-law,  the  famous  William  Beckford, 
author  of  Vathek,  and  it  was  perhaps  the  brightest  gem 
in  the  ducal  coronet  of  Hamilton.  Between  17  June  and 
20  July  1882  the  magnificent  treasures  were  dispersed  by 
the  auctioneer's  hammer.  The  sale,  which  created  a 
stir  in  every  artistic  circle  throughout  the  world,  pro- 
duced the  sum  of  £397,562,  a  total  that  far  exceeds 
any  other  modern  sale  of  the  same  character.  The 
2213  lots  brought  an  average  of  £180  each  ;  enormous 
sums  were  given  for  the  numerous  unique  art-treasures, 
which,  exclusive  of  pictures  by  the  old  masters,  were 
chiefly  of  the  17th  and  18th  centuries.  Thepicturesalone, 
including  the  miniatures,  brought  upwards  of  £123,000 ; 
Eubens' famous  'Daniel  in  the  Lions'  Den,'  on  which 
Wordsworth  composed  his  well-known  sonnet,  was 
sold  for  £5145 ;  and  a  portrait  of  Philip  IV.,  by 
Velasquiz,  for  6000  guineas.  Perhaps  the  specialty  of 
the  collection,  if,  indeed,  it  could  be  said  to  have  a 
specialty,  was  the  fine  old  French  furniture.  Two 
secretaires  that  had  belonged  to  Marie  Antoinette  were 
sold  for  £9450  each  ;  and  a  pair  of  Buhl  ai-moires 
brought  £11,500.  The  library  of  Duke  Alexander 
was  also  sold,  as  well  as  Mr  Beckford's  library,  which 
had  been  removed  to  Hamilton  Palace,  where,  however, 
it  was  kept  distinct. 


HAMILTON  PALACE 

The  policies  surrovmding  the  Palace  extend  for  2J 
miles  along  the  Clyde,  and  for  2f  miles  along  the  Avon, 
and  include  woods,  gardens,  and  lawns.  The  wild  white 
cattle  are  noticed  under  Cadzow.  Near  the  Palace 
stands  a  mausoleum  erected,  at  a  cost  of  £130,000, 
from  designs  by  David  Bryce,  in  imitation  of  the  castle 
of  St  Angelo  at  Rome.  It  includes  an  octagonal  chapel 
adorned  with  sculptures  by  A.  H.  Ritchie,  and  lighted 
by  a  dome  120  feet  high.  Hither,  in  1852,  were  trans- 
ferred the  remains  of  the  Hamilton  family.  A  moat- 
hill  towards  the  N  of  the  park  is  30  feet  in  diameter  at 
the  base,  and  16  high,  and  it  has  been  referred  to  at 
least  as  far  back  as  the  time  of  Malcolm  Ceannmor. 
The  runic  stone-cross,  4  feet  high,  in  the  vicinity,  is 
supposed  to  have  been  the  market-cross  of  Netherton. 

Hamilton  gives  the  titles  of  Baron  and  Duke  in  the 
peerage  of  Scotland  to  the  noble  family  of  HamUton- 
Douglas,  and  that  of  Marquess  to  the  Duke  of  Aber- 
com.  Both  of  these  illustrious  families  are  said  to  be 
descended  from  Robert  de  Bellomont,  third  Earl  of 
Leicester,  whose  grandson.  Sir  Gilbert  Hamilton,  fled 
to  Scotland  in  1323,  in  consequence  of  having  slain  in 
combat  John  de  Spencer.  The  crest  of  the  dukes  of 
Hamilton — an  oak  tree  with  a  saw  through  it — com- 
memorates his  escape  in  the  disguise  of  a  woodcutter  ; 
whilst  the  motto  '  Through '  was  Sir  Gilbert's  exclama- 
tion on  seeing  his  pursuers  ride  unsuspectingly  past  the 
place  where  he  and  his  servant  were  in  the  act  of  salving 
through  an  oak  tree.  Sir  Walter  de  Hamilton,  Sir 
Gilbert's  son,  acquired  the  barony  of  Cadzow,  in  the 
sherifi'dom  of  Lanark,  with  other  lands.  His  descen- 
dant, Sir  James,  sixth  Lord  Cadzow,  was  created  a 
lord  of  parliament  in  1445  as  Lord  Hamilton  ;  and  as  a 
reward  for  changing  to  the  king's  side  during  the  armed 
revolt  of  Earl  Douglas,  he  obtained  a  grant,  dated  1 
July  1455,  of  the  office  of  sheriff  of  Lanark,  and  exten- 
sive grants  of  lands  at  later  dates.  He  married  for  his 
second  wife  in  1474,  Mary,  eldest  daughter  of  James  II., 
and  widow  of  Thomas  Boyd,  Earl  of  Arran.  His  son, 
who  succeeded  in  1479,  obtained  in  1503  a  charter  of 
the  lands  and  earldom  of  Arran,  and  was  appointed 
lieutenant-general  of  the  kingdom,  warden  of  the 
marches,  and  one  of  the  lords  of  regency  in  1517. 
His  son,  James,  the  second  Earl  of  Arran,  was  declared 
in  1543  heir-presumptive  to  the  crown,  and  was  ap- 
pointed guardian  to  Queen  Mary,  and  governor  of  the 
kingdom  during  her  minority.  In  recognition  of 
his  services  in  opposing  the  English  alliance,  and  in 
bringing  about  the  marriage  of  Mary  with  the  Dauphin, 
Henry  II.  of  France  conferred  upon  him  the  title  of 
Duke  of  Chatelherault,  with  a  pension  of  30,000  liiT:es 
a  j'car.  In  1557  his  eldest  son,  James,  succeeded  to 
the  earldom  of  Arran,  the  dukedom  of  Chatelherault 
having  been  resumed  by  the  French  crown  ;  and  on 
Mary's  arrival  in  Scotland  in  1561,  this  nobleman 
openly  aspired  to  her  hand.  His  strong  opposition  to 
her  majesty's  religion  completely  estranged  her  favour, 
and  the  unfortunate  earl  was  not  long  afterwards  de- 
clared to  be  insane,  while  his  estates  devolved  upon  his 
brother.  Lord  John  Hamilton,  commendator  of  Aber- 
brothock.  This  fourth  earl  assisted  in  procuring  Queen 
Mary's  escape  from  Loch  Leven  Castle  in  1567  ;  and  it 
was  to  his  estate  in  Hamilton  that  she  first  fled.  After 
the  battle  of  Langside,  the  castle  of  Hamilton  was 
taken,  and  its  o^vner  went  into  banishment.  He  was 
restored  by  James  VI.,  and  created  in  1599  Marquess 
of  Hamilton.  His  son,  James,  the  second  Marquis 
(1604-25),  obtained  an  English  peerage  as  Baron  of 
Innerdale  in  Cumberland  and  Earl  of  Cambridge. 
James,  the  third  Marquess,  was  created  in  1643  Mar- 
quess of  Clydesdale,  and  later  Duke  of  Hamilton,  with 
a  grant  of  the  office  of  hereditary  keeper  of  Holyrood 
Palace. 

This  nobleman,  the  first  Duke  of  Hamilton,  warmly 
espoused  the  cause  of  Charles  I.  ;  and  being  defeated 
and  captured  at  the  Battle  of  Preston,  he  was  con- 
demned by  the  same  court  as  had  condemned  the  king, 
and  was  beheaded  in  London,  9  March  1649.  His 
brother  and  successor  William,  who  had  been  previously 

245 


HAMBI6ARTH 

raised  to  the  peerage  as  Lord  Mackanshire  and  Polmont 
and  Earl  of  Lanark,  was  mortally  wounded  in  the  cause 
of  Charles  II.  at  the  Battle  of  Worcester.  He  was 
excepted  from  Cromwell's  Act  of  Grace  in  1654,  and  his 
estates  were  forfeited,  with  the  reservation  of  a  pittance 
for  his  duchess  and  her  four  daughters.  His  own  honours 
fell  under  the  attainder,  and  his  English  dignities 
expired ;  but  the  dukedom  of  Hamilton,  in  virtue  of 
the  patent,  devolved  upon  his  niece,  the  eldest  daughter 
of  the  first  duke.  The  male  representation  of  the  house 
of  Hamilton  passed  to  his  next  male  heir,  the  Earl  of 
Abercorn,  whose  descendant,  the  Duke  of  Abercorn,  is 
the  head  of  the  family. 

Lady  Anne  Hamilton,  Duchess  of  Hamilton,  intro- 
duced the  Douglas  name  into  the  family  by  marrying 
Lord  WiUiam  Douglas,  eldest  son  of  William,  first 
Marquis  of  Douglas  ;  and  she  obtained  by  petition  for 
her  husband,  in  1660,  the  title  of  Duke  of  Hamilton  for 
life.  His  Grace  had  previously  been  elevated  to  the 
peerage  as  Earl  of  Selkirk.  This  peer  sat  as  president 
of  the  convention  parliament  which  settled  the  crown 
upon  William  and  Mary.  He  died  in  1694,  and  was 
succeeded  by  his  eldest  son,  James,  Earl  of  Arran,  who, 
upon  the  Duchess,  a  few  years  afterwards,  surrendering 
her  honours,  became  then,  by  patent,  Duke  of  Hamil- 
ton, with  the  precedency  of  the  original  creation  of  1643 
in  the  same  manner  as  if  he  had  originally  inherited. 
He  was  created  an  English  peer,  in  1711,  as  Baron  of 
Dutton  in  the  county  of  Chester,  and  Duke  of  Brandon 
in  the  county  of  Suffolk  ;  but  upon  proceeding  to  take 
his  seat  in  the  House  of  Lords,  it  was  objected,  that  by 
the  23d  article  of  the  Union,  '  no  peer  of  Scotland 
could,  after  the  Union,  be  created  a  peer  of  England  ; ' 
and  the  house  sustained  this  objection  after  a  lengthy 
debate.  James  George,  the  seventh  Duke,  succeeded  to 
the  marquisate  of  Douglas  and  earldom  of  Angus  on  the 
death,  in  1761,  of  Archibald,  last  Duke  of  Douglas  ; 
and  the  unsuccessful  attempt  of  his  guardians  to  vindi- 
cate his  claim  to  the  Douglas  estates  also,  on  the  ground 
that  Mr  Stewart,  son  and  heir  of  the  Duke  of  Douglas' 
sister,  was  not  her  son,  led  to  the  celebrated  Douglas 
cause.  His  brother,  eighth  duke,  succeeded  in  1782  in 
obtaining  a  reversal  of  the  decision  as  to  his  right  to  sit 
in  the  House  of  Lords.  William  Alexander,  eleventh 
Duke  of  Hamilton,  succeeded  in  1852,  and  died  in 
1863.  William  -  Alexander  -  Louis  -  Stephen  Douglas- 
Hamilton  (b.  1845)  succeeded  as  twelfth  Duke  of 
Hamilton  and  ninth  of  Brandon,  and  received  by  im- 
perial degree  of  Napoleon  III.  of  20  April  1864  the  revived 
title  of  Duke  of  Chatelherault.  His  other  titles  are 
Marquess  of  Douglas  and  Clydesdale,  Earl  of  Angus, 
Arran,  and  Lanark,  Lord  HamOton,  Avon,  Polmont, 
Mackanshire,  Innerdale,  Abernethy,  and  Jedburgh 
Forest  in  the  peerage  of  Scotland,  and  Baron  of  Dutton. 
Besides  Hamilton  Palace,  his  seats  are  KinneU  House  in 
Linlithgowshire,  Brodick  Castle  in  Arran,  and  Easton 
Park,  in  Suffolk.  He  holds  152,445  acres  in  Scot- 
land, valued  at  £132,508  per  annum,  viz.,  45,731  in 
Lanarkshire  (£95,362),  102,210  in  Buteshire  (£18,702), 
3694  in  Linlithgowshire  (£15,522),  and  810  in  Stirling- 
shire (£2922). 

Hamrigarth,  a  village  in  Dingwall  parish,  Shetland. 
Its  post-town  is  Whiteness,  under  Lerwick. 

Handa.an  uninhabited  island  of  Eddrachillis  parish,  W 
Sutherland,  separated  from  the  mainland  by  the  Sound 
of  Handa,  j  to  J  mile  broad,  and  lying  2J  miles  NNW 
of  Scourie.  Measuring  IJ  mile  from  E  to  W,  and  1 
mile  from  N  to  S,  it  has  a  proximately  circular  outline, 
consists  of  sandstone  in  highly  inclined  strata,  and  rises 
lapidly  north-westward  to  a  height  of  406  feet  above 
sea-level  at  Sithean  Mor,  whence  it  breaks  sheer  down 
onwards  the  ocean,  presenting,  round  more  than  one- 
third  of  its  entire  periphery,  a  continuous  series  of 
steep  cliffs.  As  seen  from  the  SE  it  seems  to  be  wholly 
of  a  dusky,  greenish  hue,  and  it  exhibits  in  its  ascents 
and  in  its  cliffs  striking  features  of  ledge  and  fissure, 
that  form  a  more  imposing  piece  of  rock  scenery  than 
almost  anywhere  else  is  to  be  found  in  the  United 
Kingdom.  One  enormous  perforation,  inwards  and 
246 


HAHDEN 

upwards  from  the  ocean-level,  is  swept  by  the  influx 
and  reflux  of  the  tides,  and  roofed  by  natural  arches 
resting  on  huge  blocks  of  rock.  Myriads  of  sea-fowl 
build  in  the  cliffs,  whose  summit  commands  a  sublime 
view  of  the  lofty  seaboard  of  the  mainland  from  Rhu 
Stoir  to  the  promontory  N  of  Loch  Inchard. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  107,  1881.  See  a  long  article  in  the  Scotsman 
of  28  July  1880. 

Hangingshaw,  a  mansion,  with  finely- wooded  grounds, 
in  Yarrow  parish,  Selkirkshire,  on  the  left  bank  of 
Yarrow  Water,  6  miles  W  by  N  of  Selkirk.  It  is  a  seat 
of  Mr  Johnstone  of  Alva,  who  holds  8614  acres  in  Sel- 
kirkshire, valued  at  £2505  per  annum.  Formerly  the 
estate  belonged  to  the  Murrays  of  Philiphaugh  ;  and 
an  ancient  strong  fortalice  here  was  one  of  the  strong- 
holds of  the  '  Outlaw  Murray. '  Having  witnessed  in  his 
time  a  profusion  of  domestic  display  and  a  pomp  and 
strength  of  retinue  almost  princely,  it  was  destroyed 
by  accidental  fire  about  the  close  of  last  century,  and 
now  is  represented  by  only  a  basement  wall  and  some 
outhouses. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  25,  1865. 

Harbum,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion  of  1804,  in  West 
Calder  parish,  SW  Edinburghshire,  J  mUe  S  of  Harbum 
station  on  the  Caledonian,  this  being  15  mUes  SW  of 
Edinburgh.  Harburn  Castle,  on  the  estate,  is  said  to 
have  been  fortified  by  Cromwell  to  overawe  the  moss- 
troopers. 

Harden,  a  fine  old  specimen  of  a  Border  fortress,  in 
the  Roxburghshire  section  of  Roberton  parish,  4  miles 
W  of  Hawick,  on  the  left  bank  of  Harden  Burn,  a 
rivulet  running  2  mUes  southward  to  Borthwick  Water. 
As  Ley  den  sings, — 

•  "Where  Bortha  hoarse,  that  loads  the  meads  with  sand. 
Rolls  her  red  tide  to  Teviot's  western  strand, 
Tliroufjh  slatj'  hills,  whose  sides  are  shagg'd  with  thorn, 
"Where  springs  in  scatter'd  tufts  the  dark-green  corn. 
Towers  wood-girt  Harden  far  above  the  vale. 
And  clouds  of  ravens  o  er  the  turrets  sail.' 

Repaved  and  added  to  in  1864,  Harden  retains  its  hal] 
mth  roof  of  curious  stucco  work,  its  marble-paved 
lobby,  and  a  mantelpiece  bearing  an  earl's  coronet  and 
the  initials  W.  E.  T.  (Walter,  Earl  of  Tarras).  In  1501 
Robert,  second  son  of  Walter  Scott  of  Sinton,  acquired 
the  estate  from  Alexander,  Lord  Home  ;  and  his  great- 
grandson  was  that  famous  Borderer,  'Auld  Wat  of 
Harden.'  The  cattle  he  lifted  were  concealed  in  the 
deep  precipitous  glen  of  Harden  Burn  ;  and  when  the 
last  had  been  eaten,  a  dish  would  be  set  on  the  table, 
which,  being  uncovered,  was  found  to  contain  a  pair  of 
clean  spurs  * — a  hint  it  was  time  to  be  riding.  Once, 
on  his  homeward  way  with  a  'bow  of  kye  and  a  bassened 
bull,'  he  passed  a  very  large  haystack.  '  By  my  con- 
science,' said  Wat,  '  had  ye  but  four  feet,  ye  should  not 
stand  lang  there.'  Under  Dryhope  has  been  already 
noticed  his  marriage  in  1576  with  Mary  Scott,  the 
'  Flower  of  Yarrow. '  She  is  said  to  have  fostered  that 
unknown  boy,  brought  back  from  a  Border  raid,  to 
whom  so  many  songs  and  ballads  are  ascribed.  Einmont 
Willie  should  be  one  of  these  ;  for  Wat,  we  know,  was 
him  on  whom  the  bold  Buccleuch  relied  most  in  that 
perilous  rescue  (1596).  We  have  told  under  Elibank 
how  Wat's  son  and  successor  married  the  '  Muckle- 
moi"i'ed  Meg '  of  tradition ;  their  grandson  Walter 
(1645-93),  who  had  had  for  preceptor  the  famous 
Richard  Cameron,  in  1659  wedded  Mary,  the  child 
Countess  of  Buccleuch.  (See  Dalkeith.)  She  died  in 
1661,  he  having  the  year  before  received  the  life  title  of 
Earl  of  Tarras.  He  engaged  in  his  brother-in-law  Mon- 
mouth's rebellion  (1685),  but  two  years  later  recovered 
his  estates  ;  and,  his  grandson  ha"ving  married  a  daugh- 
ter of  the  third  Earl  of  Marchmont  and  Lord  Polwarth, 
their  son,  in  1835,  claimed  and  vras  allowed  the  latter 
title.  Walter-Hugh  Hepburne-Scott,  present  and  sixth 
Baron  Polwarth  since  1690  (b.  1838  ;  sue.  1867),  is  the 
thirteenth  Baron  of  Harden,  and  holds  14,259  acres  in 
Scotland,  valued  at  £16,245,  4s.  per  annum,  viz.,  4102 
in  Roxburghshire  (£5280,   2s.),   3595   in   Selkirkshire 

*  The  identical  spurs  and  an  ancient  bugle-horn  are  still  in  Lord 
Polwarth's  possession. 


HARDGATE 

(£1760),  4714  in  Berwickshire  (£6843,  16s.),  and  1848 
in  Haddingtonshire  (£2361,  6s.).— Ord  Sitr.,  sh.  17, 
1864.  See  Mertoun,  Humbie,  and  vol.  i.,  pp.  Ixvi.- 
Ixxviii.  of  Dr  William  Fraser's  Scotts  of  Buccleitch 
(Edinb.  1878). 

Hardgate,  a  small  village,  with  a  public  school,  in  Urr 
parish,  Kirkcudbrightshire,  4  miles  NNW  of  Dalbeattie. 

Hardgate.     See  Clatt  and  Duntocher. 

Hardington  House,  a  mansion  in  Wiston  and  Eober- 
ton  parish,  Lanarkshire,  near  the  left  bank  of  the  Clyde, 
5  mUe  SSW  of  Lamington  station.  Its  owner,  Mrs 
M'Queen  Mackintosh  (sue.  1879),  holds  1216  acres  in 
Lanarkshire  and  4093  in  Peeblesshire,  valued  at  £1089 
and  £2016  per  annum.  See  Bkoughton. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  23,  1865. 

Hardmuir.    See  Dyke. 

Harefaulds.     See  GtfXHRiE. 

Harelaw,  a  quondam  peel  tower  on  the  eastern  verge 
of  Canonbie  parish,  SE  Dumfriesshire,  near  the  right 
bank  of  Liddel  Water,  2^  miles  NE  by  E  of  Canonbie 
station.  It  was  the  residence  of  the  famous  freebooter. 
Hector  Armstrong,  who  in  1569  betrayed  the  Earl  of 
Northumberland  into  the  hands  of  the  Regent  Moray. 
Limestone  of  excellent  quality  and  in  great  abundance 
exists  at  Harelawhill,  near  the  site  of  the  tower,  and 
has  long  been  largely  quarried. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  11,  1863. 

Harelaw,  an  upland  farm  in  Gurrie  parish,  Edinburgh- 
shire, among  the  north-western  declivities  of  the  Pent- 
lands,  li  mile  ESE  of  Balerno.  A  reservoir  is  on  it  at 
an  elevation  of  802  feet  above  sea-level ;  and  a  cairn,  com- 
prising about  2500  cart-loads  of  stones,  and  containing 
many  human  bones,  was  formerly  near  the  farmhouse. 

Harestane  or  Hearthstane  Burn,  a  rivulet  of  Tweeds- 
muir  parish,  SW  Peeblesshire,  rising  on  Cairn  Law  at  an 
altitude  of  2000  feet  above  sea-level,  and  running  4J 
mUes  north-north-westward,  tUl,  after  a  descent  of  1250 
feet,  it  falls  into  the  Tweed  at  a  point  IJ  mile  NNE  of 
Tweedsmuir  church.— Ord  Sur.,  sh.  16,  1864. 

Harlaw,  a  farm  in  the  parish  of  Chapel  of  Garioch, 
Aberdeenshire,  near  the  left  bank  of  the  Urie,  2J  miles 
NNW  of  Inverurie.  It  is  noted  for  a  battle  fought  on  it, 
24  July  1411  (St  James's  Eve),  between  the  rebel  High- 
land army  of  Donald,  Lord  of  the  Isles,  and  the  royal 
forces  under  the  Earl  of  Mar.  Donald,  at  the  head  of 
10,000  men,  overran  Ross-shire,  marched  through  In- 
verness-shire and  Moray,  acquired  accessions  to  his 
strength  in  those  districts  and  in  Banffshire,  and  re- 
solved now  to  carry  into  execution  a  threat  he  had  often 
made,  to  bm-n  the  town  of  Aberdeen.  He  committed 
great  excesses  in  Strathbogie  and  in  the  district  of 
Garioch,  which  belonged  to  the  Earl  of  Mar.  The  in- 
habitants of  Aberdeen  were  in  dreadful  alarm  at  the 
near  approach  of  this  marauder  and  his  savage  hordes  ; 
but  their  fears  were  allayed  by  the  speedy  appearance 
of  a  well-equipped  army,  commanded  by  the  Earl  of 
Mar,  who  bore  a  high  military  character,  assisted  by 
many  brave  knights  and  gentlemen  of  Angus  and 
the  Mearns.  Advancing  from  Aberdeen,  Mar  marched 
by  Inverurie,  and  descried  the  Highlanders  stationed  at 
Harlaw.  He  saw  that  he  had  to  contend  with  tre- 
mendous odds ;  but  though  his  forces  were,  it  is  said, 
as  one  to  ten  to  those  opposed  to  him,  he  resolved,  from 
the  confidence  he  had  in  his  steel-clad  knights,  to  risk 
a  battle.  Having  placed  a  small  but  select  body  of 
knights  and  men-at-arms  in  front,  under  the  command  of 
the  Constable  of  Dundee  and  the  Sheriff  of  Angus,  the 
Earl  drew  up  the  main  strength  of  his  army  in  the  rear, 
including  the  Murrays,  the  Straitens,  the  Maules,  the 
Irvings,  the  Leslies,  the  Lovels,  and  the  Stirlings, 
headed  by  their  respective  chiefs.  The  Earl  then  placed 
himself  at  the  head  of  this  body.  On  the  other  side, 
under  the  Lord  of  the  Isles,  were  Mackintosh  and  Mac- 
lean and  other  Highland  chiefs,  all  bearing  the  deadliest 
hatred  to  their  Southron  foes. 

On  a  given  signal,  the  Highlanders  and  Islesmen, 
setting  up  those  terrific  shouts  and  yells  which  they 
were  wont  to  raise  on  entering  into  battle,  rushed  for- 
ward on  the  foe  ;  but  they  were  received  with  great 
firmness  and  bravery  by  the  men-at-arms,  who,  with 


HAKRIS 

spears  levelled  and  battle-axes  raised,  cut  down  many  of 
their  impetuous  but  badly  armed  opponents.  After  the 
Lowlanders  had  recovered  themselves  from  the  shock  of 
this  furious  onset.  Sir  James  Scrymgeour,  at  the  head 
of  the  knights  and  bannerets  under  him,  cut  his  way 
through  the  thick  columns  of  the  Islesmen,  everywhere 
carrying  death  ;  but  the  slaughter  of  hundreds  by  this 
brave  party  did  not  intimidate  the  Highlanders,  who 
kept  pouring  in  by  thousands  to  supply  the  place  of 
those  who  had  fallen.  Surrounded  on  all  sides.  Sir 
James  and  his  valiant  companions  had  no  alternative 
but  death  or  victory,  and  death  indeed  was  their  lot. 
First  fell  the  Constable  of  Dundee,  and  his  fall  so  en- 
couraged the  Highlanders,  that,  seizing  and  stabbing 
the  horses,  they  dismounted  the  riders,  whom  they 
despatched  with  their  daggers.  In  the  meantime  the 
Earl  of  Mar,  who  had  penetrated  with  his  main  army 
into  the  very  heart  of  the  enemy,  kept  up  the  unequal 
contest  with  great  bravery,  and,  though  the  action  cost 
him  almost  the  whole  of  his  army,  he  continued  the 
fatal  struggle  with  a  handful  of  men  till  nightfall.  The 
disastrous  result  of  this  battle  was  one  of  the  greatest 
misfortunes  that  ever  befell  the  families  of  Angus  and 
the  Mearns.  Many  of  them  lost  not  only  their  head, 
but  every  male  in  the  house.  Leslie  of  Balquhain  is 
said  to  have  fallen  with  six  of  his  sons  ;  and  there  were 
also  slain  Sir  James  Scrymgeour,  Sir  Alexander  Ogilvy, 
the  Sheriff  of  Angus,  with  his  eldest  son  George  Ogilvy, 
Sir  Thomas  Murray,  Sir  Robert  Maule  of  Panmure,  Sir 
Alexander  Irving  of  Drum,  Sir  William  Abernethy  of 
Salton,  Sir  Alexander  Straiten  of  Lauriston,  James 
Level,  Alexander  Stirling,  and  Sir  Robert  Davidson, 
Provost  of  Aberdeen,  with  500  men-at-arms,  including 
the  principal  gentry  of  Buchan  and  the  greater  part  of 
the  burgesses  of  Aberdeen  who  followed  their  provost. 
The  Highlanders  left  900  men  dead  on  the  field  of 
battle,  among  them  the  chiefs  Maclean  and  Mackintosh. 
Their  defeat  was  far  from  signal,  but  their  career  was 
stayed,  and  that  was  everything. 

'So,'  says  Dr  Hill  Burton,  'ended  one  of  Scotland's 
most  memorable  battles.  On  the  face  of  ordinary  his- 
tory it  looks  like  an  aflfair  of  civU  war.  But  this  ex- 
pression is  properly  used  towards  those  who  have  com- 
mon interests  and  sympathies,  who  should  naturally  be 
friends  and  may  be  friends  again,  but  for  a  time  are, 
from  incidental  causes  of  dispute  and  quarrel,  made 
enemies.  The  contest  between  the  Lowlanders  and 
Donald's  host  was  none  of  this ;  it  was  a  contest  between 
foes,  of  whom  their  contemporaries  would  have  said 
that  their  ever  being  in  harmony  with  each  other,  or 
having  a  feeling  of  common  interest  and  nationality, 
was  not  within  the  range  of  rational  expectation '  {Hist. 
Scotl,  ii.  392-394,  ed.  1876).  The  battle  is  celebrated 
in  a  long  ballad,  supposed  by  some  to  date  from  the  15th 
century,  but  closely  following  Boece's  narrative. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  76,  1874. 

Harlosh,  a  hamlet  in  the  Isle  of  Skye,  Inverness-shire, 
with  a  post  office  under  Portree. 

Harold's  Tower,  a  monumental  structure  near  the 
coast  of  Thurso  parish,  Caithness,  IJ  mile  ENE  of 
Thui'so  town.  It  was  erected  in  the  latter  part  of  last 
century,  by  Sir  John  Sinclair,  over  the  grave  of  an  Earl 
of  Caithness,  who  was  slain  in  battle  about  the  close  of 
the  12th  century  ;  and  it  presents  a  striking  appearance. 

Haroldswick,  a  hamlet  and  a  bay  in  the  N  of  Unst 
island,  Shetland.  The  hamlet  stands  on  the  bay,  and 
has  a  post  office  under  Lerwick. 

Harperfield,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Lesmaha- 
gow  parish,  Lanarkshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Clyde, 
4|  miles  S  by  E  of  Lanark. 

Harport,  a  ramification  of  Loch  Bracadale  on  the  SW 
side  of  the  Isle  of  Skye,  in  Inverness-shire.  It  deflects 
to  the  SE  ;  extends  to  a  length  of  about  6  miles ; 
separates  the  lower  part  of  Minginish  district  from  the 
main  body  of  Skye  ;  aflFords  safe  harbourage  to  vessels  ; 
and  receives  at  its  head  a  torrent  of  about  4  miles  in 
length,  descending  from  the  Cuchullin  Mountains. 

Harray.     See  Birsat. 

Harris,  a  parish  in  the  Outer  Hebrides,  Inverness- 

247 


HARRIS,  THE  SOUND  OF 

shire,  comprehending  the  southern  part  of  Lewis,  a  large 
numher  of  adjacent  or  neighbouring  islets  and  islands, 
and  the  distant  island  of  St  Kilda.  It  has  a  post  office 
of  its  own  name,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and 
telegraph  departments,  under  Stornoway ;  and  it  is 
regularly  visited  at  Tarbert  by  steamers  on  the  passage 
from  Glasgow  to  Stornoway.  Its  main  part  is  bounded 
N  by  Lewis  parish  in  Eoss-shire,  E  by  the  Minoh  and 
the  Little  Minch,  S  by  the  Sound  of  Harris,  which 
divides  it  from  North  Uist,  and  W  by  the  Atlantic 
Ocean.  Connected  with  Lewis  parish  by  an  isthmus  of 
7  miles  between  the  middle  of  Loch  Seaforth  and  the 
head  of  Loch  Reasort,  it  measures  21  miles  in  estreme 
length  from  NNE  to  SSW,  18  mUes  in  extreme  breadth, 
and  (inclusive  of  islands)  123,757  acres  in  area.  It  is 
almost  cut  in  two,  through  the  middle,  by  East  Loch 
Tarbert  and  West  Loch  Tarbert,  approaching  so  near 
each  other  as  to  leave  an  isthmus  less  than  a  mfle  across ; 
and  everywhere  else  its  E  and  W  coasts  are  so  in- 
dented by  the  sea  as  to  render  its  breadth  at  all  parts 
very  variable,  not  more  than  7  miles  upon  an  average. 
As  seen  from  the  Minch  it  presents  such  a  bare,  whitish, 
rocky,  mountainous  appearance  as  to  have  won  for  it  its 
name  of  Harris  (Gael.  Na  Eardihh,  'the  heights'). 
The  islands,  with  the  exception  of  St  Kilda,  all  lie 
very  near  the  main  body,  most  of  them  so  near  as  to  be 
separated  from  it  by  the  narrowest  straits  ;  but,  though 
very  numerous,  only  seven  of  them  are  inhabited — 
Bernera,  Ensay,  Killigray,  Pabbay,  Scalpa,  Scarp,  and 
Tarrensay.  The  sea-lochs,  bays,  and  creeks  of  the  main 
body,  particularly  on  its  E  side,  afford  commodious 
harbourage  to  ships  and  boats.  The  shores  and  some 
inland  vales  are  sufficiently  low  and  fertile  to  afford 
fair  resources  of  sustenance  to  the  inhabitants.  The 
interior,  from  end  to  end,  is  mainly  occupied  by  moun- 
tain ridges,  1000  to  2662  feet  high.  'The  lochs  and 
streams  are  so  numerous  that  they  cannot  easily  be 
particularised ;  most  of  them  teem  with  trout  and  sal- 
mon. Gneiss  is  the  predominant  rock ;  granite  and 
sandstone  also  abound  ;  and  serpentine,  asbestos,  iron 
ore,  and  copper  ore  are  found.  The  aggregate  of  arable 
land  is  very  small.  Sheep  husbandry  is  largely  prac- 
tised ;  and  the  Cheviot  breed  of  sheep  was  introduced 
prior  to  1840,  and  found  to  be  remarkably  suitable. 
IDeer  abound  amongst  the  hills ;  grouse  are  plentiful 
on  the  moors  ;  geese,  plovers,  and  pigeons  frequent  the 
low  grounds  and  the  swamps  ;  eagles  visit  the  moun- 
tainous rocks  ;  fish  of  many  kinds  swarm  in  the  waters ; 
and  lobsters  and  oysters  are  on  some  sea-grounds 
near  the  shores.  Ancient  standing-stones,  in  circles 
or  in  other  arrangements,  are  numerous ;  Scandinavian 
forts  were  also  formerly  conspicuous,  but  have  been 
removed  for  the  erection  of  other  buildings  ;  and  an 
Augustinian  monastery,  on  the  site  of  a  Culdee  cell, 
was  founded  at  Eowadill  at  an  early  period,  and  had  a 
number  of  chapels  connected  with  it  throughout  the 
northern  parts  of  the  Outer  Hebrides.  Now  it  is  repre- 
sented by  its  ruined  cruciform  church,  with  a  rude  E 
tower  and  a  richly  sculptured  recumbent  effigy  of 
.Alexander  Macleod  of  Dnnvegan.  The  Earl  of  Dun- 
more  and  Sir  Edward  Henry  Scott,  Bart. ,  are  chief  pro- 
prietors. In  the  presbytery  of  Uist  and  synod  of  Glenelg, 
this  parish  is  divided  ecclesiastically  into  Bernera  and 
Harris  proper,  the  latter  a  living  worth  £191.  Its 
church,  erected  in  1840,  contains  400  sittings ;  and 
there  are  Free  churches  of  Harris  and  Tarbert.  Eleven 
schools — Bernera,  Denishader,  Finsbay,  Eyles  Scalpa, 
Kyles  Stocknish,  Manish,  Obe,  Scalpa,  Scarp,  Scarista, 
and  Tarbert — all  of  them  public  but  the  last,  with  total 
accommodation  for  962  children,  had  (1881)  an  average 
attendance  of  470,  and  grants  amounting  to  £446,  7s.  6d. 
Valuation  (1860)  £4073,  (1882)  £5821,  12s.  7d.  Pop. 
of  civil  parish  (1801)  2996,  (1831)  3900,  (1861)  4183, 
(1871)  4120,  (1881)  4814,  of  whom  4646  were  Gaelic- 
speaking  and  3433  belonged  to  the  main  body  ;  pop.  of 
ecclesiastical  parish  (1871)  3739,  (1881)  4360. 

Hairis,  The  Sound  of,  measuring  9  miles  in  length 
from  SE  to  N"W,  and  between  8  and  12  in  breadth, 
forma  the  only  passage  for  vessels  of  burden  through 
2iS 


HARTHILL 

the  long  line  of  the  Outer  Hebrides.  It  contains  a 
number  of  islands  J  mile  to  nearly  4  miles  in  length, 
and  is  much  encumbered  besides  with  islets,  rocks,  and 
shoals  ;  but  though  considerably  difficult  and  dangerous 
of  navigation,  can  be  safely  passed  with  aid  of  a  skilful 
pilot.  The  tidal  current  in  it,  from  the  autumnal  to  the 
vernal  equinox,  runs  in  neap  tides  all  day  from  E  to  W, 
and  all  night  from  W  to  E  ;  but,  from  the  vernal  to  the 
autumnal  equinox,  runs  all  day  from  W  to  E,  and  all 
night  from  E  to  W  ;  and,  in  spring  tides,  during  both 
periods,  corresponds  nearly  to  the  common  course. 

Harroldswick.    See  Haroldswiok. 

Harrow,  a  loch  (3  x  1 J  furl.  ;  850  feet),  in  Kells  parish, 
Kirkcudbrightshire,  8f  miles  NW  of  New  Galloway. 
It  contains  some  small,  shy  trout,  and  sends  off  Pulhar- 
row  Burn  5§  miles  east-south-eastward  to  the  Ken. — 
Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  8,  1868. 

Hartfell,  a  broad-based,  flat-topped  mountain  on  the 
mutual  border  of  Moffat  parish,  Dumfriesshire,  and 
Tweedsmuir  parish,  Peeblesshire,  6J  miles  NNE  of 
Moffat  town.  It  has  an  altitude  of  2651  feet  above  sea- 
level,  but  formerly  was  assigned  a  much  higher  eleva- 
tion, being  falsely  regarded  as  the  loftiest  summit  of  the 
Southern  Highlands,  whereas  in  fact  it  is  surpassed  by 
Merick  (2764  feet).  Broad  Law  (2754),  White  Coomb 
(2695),  etc.  So  gentle  is  its  acclivity  from  the  upper 
basin  of  Annan  Water,  that  the  greater  part  of  it  may 
be  ascended  on  horseback  ;  its  level  plateau,  clad  with 
short,  wiry  grass,  commands  a  vast,  magnificent,  and 
varied  prospect.  North-westward,  across  a  -wide  and 
billowy  sea  of  mountains,  one  sees,  in  certain  states  of 
the  atmosphere,  the  snowy  cap  or  cloud-wreathed  brow 
of  Ben  Lomond  ;  north-eastward  and  eastward  one  looks 
athwart  the  green  hills  of  Tweeddale  and  Ettrick  Forest 
to  the  Firth  of  Forth,  the  German  Ocean,  and  the 
Cheviots ;  westward  the  Lowthers'  wild  and  rugged 
scenery  extends  to  the  towering  summit  of  Blacklarg  ; 
and  southward  the  eye  strays  over  the  Dumfriesshire 
uplands  till  it  rests  upon  Skiddaw  and  the  other  Cum- 
berland mountains.  Hartfell  Spa,  on  the  southern  side 
of  the  mountain,  5  miles  NNE  of  Moffat,  occurs  in  the 
deep  ravine  of  Auchencat  or  Hartfell  Burn,  flowing  SJ 
miles  west-south-westward  to  Annan  Water.  A  well 
that  issues  from  strata  of  black  slialy  rock,  it  is  pro- 
tected by  a  small  vaulted  building,  the  keystone  of 
whose  roof  is  carved  with  the  bloody  heart  of  the 
Douglas  family.  The  spa  was  discovered  in  1748  by  a 
farmer,  John  Williamson,  who  was  superintending  a 
mining  operation  lower  down  the  burn  ;  the  following 
is  the  analysis  of  a  litre  of  its  water,  made  by  Mr 
William  Johnstone  of  Edinburgh  in  1874:— Specific 
gravity,  1000-386  ;  temperature,  49°  F.  ;  temperature 
of  air,  56°  F.  ;  ferrous  sulphate,  0-2109;  aluminic  sul- 
phate, 0-1970;  sodium  chloride,  0-0060;  sodium  sul- 
phate, 0-0048;  calcium  sulphate,  0-0352;  calcium  car- 
bonate, 0-0280;  magnesic  sulphate,  0-0233;  magnesic 
carbonate,  0-0121  ;  ferrous  carbonate,  0-0240;  silica, 
0-0050;  carbonic  dioxide,  6-734;  oxygen,  6-062;  nit- 
rogen, 18-057.  The  water  is  a  powerful  tonic,  cool  and 
acidulous,  specially  good  in  dyspepsia.  About  a  pint  is 
the  usual  quantity  prescribed  per  diem. — Orel.  Sitr.,  sh. 
16,  1864. 

Harthill,  a  collier  village  in  Shotts  parish,  NE  Lan- 
arkshire, adjacent  to  the  Linlithgowshire  border,  1§ 
mile  E  by  S  of  Westcraigs  station.  It  has  a  post  office 
under  Bathgate,  with  money  order  and  savings'  bank 
departments,  an  established  q^wad  sacra  church,  a  Free 
church,  and  a  public  school.  The  quoad  sacra  parish  of 
Harthill  and  Benhar,  constituted  in  1878,  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Hamilton  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr. 
Pop.  of  village  (1871)  686,  (1881)  1441  ;  of  q.  s.  parish 
(1881)  3444.— 0»-d  Sur.,  sh.  31,  1867. 

Harthill,  a  ruined  castle  in  Oyne  parish,  Aberdeen- 
shire, on  the  northern  slope  of  Bennochie,  1  mile  S  of 
Oyne  station.  Built  by  Patrick  Leith  in  1638,  it  is  a 
massive  edifice,  with  walls  5  feet  in  thickness,  round 
towers,  bartizans,  loopholes,  and  ^an  arched  gateway ; 
and,  according  to  tradition,  it  was  burned  by  the  last  of 
its  lairds.