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THE

ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

TO
THE ISLANDS OF

ORKNEY AND SHETLAND.

By ROBERT DUNN,
Nein ee taeacate we

HULL,

LONDON:

PRINTED BY
RICHARD TAYLOR, RED LION COURT, FLEET STREET 3

AND PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR,
31, GEORGE STREET, HULL.

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TO

W. H. RUDSTON READ, Ese., M.A.

BLS. FeZiSe Ol FES e,

OF FRICKLEY HALL, DONCASTER,
AN ARDENT LOVER OF NATURAL HISTORY,

THIS VOLUME
IS WITH HIS PERMISSION DEDICATED,

AS A SLIGHT TOKEN OF RESPECT FOR MANY

ACTS OF KINDNESS,

BY HIS OBLIGED AND OBEDIENT SERVANT,

THE AUTHOR.

INTRODUCTION.

Havine frequently sustained considerable
loss and inconvenience in my business from
the want of fine examples of many of our
native water-birds, I came to the determi-
nation, in the early part of 1831, of visiting
the Orkney and Shetland Islands, for the
purpose of procuring some of the rarer
kinds, being well aware that as these islands
are the most northerly of the British Isles,
and the nearest to Norway and Iceland,
they must consequently be the first places
of resort for birds migrating from those
countries, some few of which never migrate
further to the southward, but remain there
and breed, in consequence of their being
but little disturbed, the inhabitants few
in number, the ground in general not ad-
mitting of much cultivation, and the is-

Vlil INTRODUCTION.

lands affording many localities peculiarly
adapted as sites of incubation; all of which
advantages are peculiarly favourable to the
feathered race.

I cannot say that my expectation of ob-
taining many rare species was realized,
although in forming a general collection I
was so far successful that I was induced to
take three more voyages to the islands for
the like purpose. While on these journeys
it was my custom to take notes of my routes
and of the occurrences that took place, with
passing observations on the manners and
customs of the people, &c. These remarks
have lain by me some time: they were taken
at the moment, without any regard to order
or arrangement, solely for my own amuse-
ment, and without the smallest idea that they
would ever be submitted to the inspection of
the public, otherwise more pains would have
been taken in their composition ; but having
been persuaded, by several of my friends who
had perused them, to give them publicity,—
not with the view of obtaining any credit

INTRODUCTION. ix

thereby, for they will not bear criticism, but
for the purpose of furnishing a guide to those
whomightbedesirous of visiting these islands
to collect specimens of Natural History,—I
have determined upon complying with their
request ; and I trust, from the experience |
have had, I shall beable to point out to the
traveller the easiest and most convenient
routes, the localities where the various spe-
cies of birds are to be found, the mode of
obtaining them, the articles necessary on
such occasions, and the description of guns
I found to answer best.

Had I on my first visit possessed such a
guide it would have saved me much time
and money, two things of vast importance
to a traveller of my description, especially
when his time is limited and his funds not
very extensive.

In detailing some account of my wander-
ings it is not my intention to enter into a
minute description of the Orkney and Shet-
land Islands or their productions, much
having already been published on this sub-

x INTRODUCTION.

ject by other and far more intelligent tra-
vellers ; neither, as I do not profess to be a
scientific naturalist, will the description of
the birds, &c. be very minute, my prin-
cipal object being to point out the localities
where they may be found.

Like myself, the student of natural hi-
story who may visit these islands for the
purpose of collecting specimens and for
otherwise investigating this department of
science, will meet with many disappoint-
ments to damp his ardour, for which pa-
tience, perseverance, and study will amply
repay him, and he will moreover derive a_
high gratification from searching deeply into
this delightful branch of nature’s works,
to which those who merely take a superficial
view of her productions must be strangers.

In conclusion I beg to add, that should
my humble endeavours be the means of in-
ducing any individual to commence the
study of this branch of science, or of stimu-
lating to further advancement any one who
has already begun, I shall feel proud indeed.

NOTICE TO SUBSCRIBERS.

Many of the Author’s friends having expressed an
opinion that the value of this Publication would
be much enhanced by the addition of Maps of the
Orkney and Shetland Islands, the Author has de-
termined upon complying with their suggestion,
and has therefore appended two Maps which were
published in 1835, and which he believes to be
very accurate. The additional expense thus oc-
casioned renders it necessary to increase the price
of the volume to Five Shillings; which, however,
the Author trusts will not be productive of any dis-
satisfaction to the Subscribers; at the same time
he begs to add that those who do not wish for the
Maps may have the Volume without them at the

original price of Four Shillings.

THE

ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE
TC

THE ISLANDS OF

ORKNEY AND SHETLAND.

On my first visit I arrived in Shetland on the
21st of March 1831, and remained there between
seven and eight months: in the spring of the fol-
lowing year I visited Orkney, and remained there
seven months. In the year 1833 I again visited
Orkney, early in January, for the purpose of get-
ting the winter birds, and remained nine months.
In 1834 I went to Holland for the like purpose,
but, I regret to add, did not meet with the same de-
gree of liberality from our Dutch neighbours that
had been accorded to me by my own countrymen.
Being ignorant of their laws, I unfortunately ar-
rived in Holland when the shooting-season had
expired; and so strictly are their penalties enforced
against any offender of the game laws, that I could
not even carry a gun without subjecting myself to
a fine. I -stopped a month in the country, travel-
B

2 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

ling from place to place all the time, and saw se-
veral of the birds I went with the intention of pro-
curing, such as Spoonbills, Purple Herons, Quails,
Golden Orioles, several of the Falcon tribe, &c.,
but was obliged to return without them, highly
mortified at my disappointment.

In the spring of the following year (1835) I
again visited Shetland, being my fourth voyage to
these islands. :

The appearance of Shetland and Orkney, to a
traveller coming from the south, is by no means
attractive: still their coasts, which are rocky, un-
equal, and in many places very bold, with high
headlands projecting a considerable distance into
the sea, present a grand and imposing appearance;
the hills are bleak, and not unfrequently covered
with a thick fog: the wild scenes of nature here
predominate, and in some places are highly ro-
mantic. The climate is very variable and damp,
although, I am informed, not unwholesome to the
inhabitants.

Lerwick is situated about the middle of the
mainland, on its eastern side, and immediately op-
posite to the island of Bressa. The town is not very
ancient, but Iam unable to state the time of its
foundation. Inthe year 1633, when Captain Smith
visited Shetland, Lerwick was not in existence:

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 3

that gentleman resided on the island for some time,
and was frequently in Bressa Sound, which he de-
scribed as a capital harbour, but never mentions
Lerwick. When Brand was in Shetland, in 1700,
Dr. Edmonston informs us it contained between
two and three hundred families ; he also adds, that
about thirty years before there were only four
houses where two hundred then stood: it therefore
seems probable that Lerwick was built about the
year 1670, and being situated near a fine harbour,
frequented by many ships, its increase for a time
was very rapid.

It is about three quarters of a mile long, and is
built on the side of a hill close to the sea. Fort
Charlotte stands at the north end of the town, and
at the south end is a small hill, forming its boun-
dary in that direction. It contains about four hun-
dred houses, some of which have a very respectable
appearance; most of them are built of common
walling-stone, and are erected in a very irregular
manner, generally with their ends towards the
sea. The principal street is well paved with flags,
but is of very unequal breadth, being in some
places not above six feet wide, and in others eigh-
teen. The houses situated on the rising ground
towards the hill have neat gardens to them, which
renders them very pleasant in the summer time ;

B2

4 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

there are also a few neat country-houses in the
neighbourhood, belonging to some of the most opu-
lent merchants, where, in imitation of their more
favoured brethren of the South, they retire and en-
joy a relaxation from the toils of business.

The greater part of the ground in the immediate
neighbourhood of Lerwick is now in a cultivated
state. There are several roads skirting the town,
which are kept in tolerably good repair by the in-
habitants, each man having either to pay six shil-
lings a year or work six days at them. They are
at present making a new road to Scalloway ; it ex-
tends nearly three miles from Lerwick, and is the
longest road in the country; another runs twomiles
towards Weesdale; these are the principal ones:
others only run behind the town. Lerwick can
boast of few ornamental buildings; the chief and
most important is the Fort, which Dr. Edmonston
states was originally constructed in the time of
Cromwell. It was rebuilt by Charles II. in 1665,
during his first war with Holland, but both the
garrison and the guns were removed at the peace.
In the next Dutch war, in the year 1673, an ene-
my’s frigate entered Bressa Sound when the fort
was in this defenceless state, destroyed the prin-
cipal place in the garrison,and burnt several houses
in the town. It was completely new-modelled in

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND; D

1781, and called Fort Charlotte, and in time of war
has a garrison of soldiers. It mounts twelve guns,
which flank the town, and is calculated to repel
any attack from sea, as from their elevation the
guns command the entrance of the harbour. A neat
church, and an old building called the Town-house,
complete the public buildings of Lerwick; the
former is very well attended, and the latter serves
for a court-room, masons’ lodge, and prison.

The harbour is large, about two miles long, and
has a good anchorage ground with from five to
sixteen fathoms water. The south entry is the one
at which vessels of a large draught enter ; they can
also come in at the north entry, but it is narrower,
and having a strong tide, it is more dangerous; be-
sides which, even at spring tides, it never exceeds
eighteen feet water.

There is no dry harbour at Lerwick. The tide
never rises or falls more than seven feet: sloops
and schooners unload during fine weather at the
wharfs: the harbour is much frequented by mer-
chant vessels and occasionally by men-of-war.
Many of the whalers call here and take an addi-
tional number of men, and it is also much fre-
quented by the Dutch fishermen; I have seen as
many as forty of these Dutch bushers, as they are
called, in the harbour at one time. Considerable

6 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

sums of money are annually brought into Lerwick
by the fishing-ships, particularly by the Greenland-
men, for the purpose of paying the wages of the
crews and for victualling the ships, by which the
commercial people of the town are great gainers,
as they supply the sailors with whatever they need,
and are the agents for their pay. |

There is no regular market at Lerwick, but.the
town is well though not regularly supplied with
provisions from the country at a comparatively
low rate. The beef is small and fine-flavoured, but
is rarely fat; it varies from threepence to fivepence
per pound, and is either sold by the quarter or en-
tire, several families joining together and buying
the whole bullock: the poorer classes seldom in-
dulge in this luxury. The sheep are small, gene-
rally in better condition than the oxen, and mode-
rately fat, and may be bought for from six to ten
shillings ; a lamb for two or three shillings: due
ring my last visit I bought a lamb for two shillings,
which when dressed weighed nine pounds. Veal is
extremely cheap, the price of a calf being only
2s. 6d., while the skin alone is worth one third of
the money; it is very poor, and is generally killed
when only a few days old. If you ask a Shetlander
the age of his calf when exposed for sale, his an-
swer invariably is, “Three days old tomorrow.”

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 7

Autumn and the beginning of winter are the sea-
sons when beef and mutton are the most plentiful,
and consequently the cheapest, the farmers being
obliged to sell their cattle, not having fodder to sup-
ply them with. The poultry is very good and cheap
when there are not many vessels in the harbour,
the presence of shipping affecting the price consi-
derably. A goose may be bought for 1s. 6d., a duck
for-sevenpence or eightpence, and a hen for six-
pence, but the ducks are not generally liked: eggs
from twopence to threepence per dozen. There are
neither hares nor partridges in the islands; there
is an abundance of rabbits in some parts; in Ork-
ney they are sold at fivepence the couple, but in
Shetland they are not killed for the purpose of sale.
Fish at particular seasons is very abundant both
in Orkney and Shetland, and one kind or other
may always be had when it is moderate weather.
Halibut, haddocks, and flounders are the most
plentiful, excepting the young coal-fish called sil-
locks, which abound about these islands: they are
the principal food of the poorer classes, and may
be easily obtained at all times; a child five or six
years of age is able to catch as many in an hour or
two as will supply the family for a day; a small
rod, two or three yards of hair line, and four or
five bent pins, with a piece of white feather attached

8 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

to each, are the only implements necessary; some-.
times two boys furnished with four such rods get
into a boat, which is gently pulled along by one,
while the other is sufficiently occupied in hauling
in the lines, not unfrequently with a fish on every
hook.

There are a few salmon, but they are seldom
caught; the lakes and sea abound with fine trout,
some of which nearly equal the salmon in size, and.
have a peculiarly fine flavour; there is also an
abundance of shell-fish, such as the muscle, oyster,
eockle, razor-fish, commonly called spouts, all of
which are very cheap; the oysters are very fat
and are_about eightpence per hundred. Although
lobsters are very plentiful in Orkney, and consi-.
derable numbers are taken from thence to supply.
the London markets, I never saw one al! the time
I was in Shetland; still I have no doubt they
prove abundant if sought after.

All vegetables are scarce with the exception of
potatoes, which are in general very plentiful; they
are small, but those taken out by the fishing-ships
are found to keep much longer than the English
ones, and they also possess another advantage, that
of being obtained much cheaper.

_ There are but few respectable lodgings in Ler-.
wick, and but one regularly established inn, and

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. g

that was only opened during my last visit to Shet-
land; this want has been greatly complained of by
strangers and by the Shetlanders themselves who
are compelled to visit Lerwick on business, that
town bemg the grand emporium of commerce for the
Shetland Isles. The lodging-houses in the country
are very mean and uncomfortable, and on some oc-
casions I should have been unpleasantly situated
had it not been for the kindness of the gentlemen
farmers, or lairds as they are called, who politely
offered to accommodate me in their own houses;
I shall not be so invidious as to mention any par-
ticular individual, as I received from them gene-
rally the utmost kindness and attention.

The population of Lerwick, I believe, amounts
to between sixteen and seventeen hundred, exclu-
sive of those living in the country part of the parish ;
according to Dr. Edmonston, the whole population
of Shetland in 1802 was 22,379. The inhabitants are
naturally hospitable, and their liberality and kind-
ness amply make up for the want of public inns.

Many of the Shetland gentlemen are intelligent
and well informed ; some of them have received a
liberal education at the Scotch universities, and a
great many young men who possess the advantage
of money, leave Shetland for the same places, to
finish their education, as they find it essentially

BS

—10 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

necessary to keep pace with the improving spirit
of the age.

A stranger walking through the streets of Ler-
wick would suppose, from the number of shops,
that a great deal of business must be done.
There are upwards of fifty persons who are regu-
larly licensed to sell spirits, either to be consumed
on the premises or to be taken away. They deal in
all descriptions of articles, and you will not unfre-
quently see those peculiar to the milliner, the gro-
eer, the ironmonger, the hatter, and the druggist
mingled together in elegant confusion, whilst the
background is occupied with several casks, bearing
on them the tempting inscription of “‘ Real High-
land Whiskey”? or ** Prime Holland Gin ;” they
are sensible enough when they have got a stranger
to deal with, and are not at all scrupulous in making
their charges ; the country people principally ex-
change the home-manufactured goods, such as
stockings, gloves, &c., and the produce of the farm-
yard with the shopkeepers for tea, sugar, &c.: I
am informed that even the professional gentlemen
of Lerwick have frequently received geese, fowls,
potatoes, &c. as a fee for their professional advice :
upon what scale this is regulated I am ignorant.
Money with the country people is a scarce article,
and when once they have got possession of it,

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. © il

having an excellent knowledge of its many virtues,
they retain it with an iron grasp, until stern ne-
cessity compels them to relinquish it, which ‘icin?
do with great reluctance.

-The Shetlanders in general are not addicted to
drinking ardent spirits, but are extravagant in the
luxuries of tea and tobacco. The English language
is commonly spoken by the people, but with the
accent peculiar to the North of Britain ; they have
introduced into it a great many words from the
Norwegian, Danish, and Dutch languages, and this
medley uttered by a native of the country is ex-
ceedingly unpleasant to the ear and very difficult
to understand: the fashionables of Lerwick spéak
very good English and are great politicians. The
lower orders, to a stranger coming from the South,
are very inquisitive. I wish I could add that their
curiosity was prompted by laudable motives; on the
contrary, they have seldom the acquisition of useful
knowledge in view. The men in general are stout
and robust, and able to bear great fatigue ; they are
excellent rowers, which is not to be wondered at,
as they are accustomed to it from their infancy ;
but it requires much persuasion and many pro-
mises before you can get them to exert themselves :
they are indolent in their disposition and dirty in
their habits. The women, on the other hand, are

12 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

active, industrious, and persevering ; nearly all the
agricultural labour is performed by them,—I may
safely say the most laborious part of it,—and should
they not possess ponies the duty devolves upon
them of carrying the manure to the land, which
they do on their backs in small hampers, or caseys
as they are called; and during this labour their
hands are occupied in knitting,—indeed it is the
custom of the women on all occasions to carry the
articles necessary for that purpose along with them,
—while in all probability the husband or brother
is smoking at home or basking in the sun on the
side of some neighbouring hill.

The houses or huts of the Shetland peasantry
are very imperfectly built of stone and clay; and in
many situations where the latter cannot be obtained,
and they are consequently destitute of this material,
they are rudely and imperfectly thatched with
straw and the outhouses covered with turf; they
are exempt from the duty on windows, as the light
in most of them enters through the opening of the
doors and chimney: the dwelling-house consists of
two apartments, with a fire in the centre of the
largest room, in the roof of which is a hole that
answers the double purpose of allowing the escape
of the smoke and the admission of light. The pigs
enjoy the privilege of sleeping around the fire in the

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 13

room with the inhabitants, and the chickens occa-
sionally enter and perch on the shelves, and on the
tops of the beds, if they are so fortunate as to
possess any furniture of the latter description.
The dress of the Shetland peasantry is not pe-
culiar; both sexes wear the coarse manufactured
stuffs of their country: the men make a kind of
shoe of the untanned skins of the ox and seal,
which are called rivilins ; they are very light, and
are well adapted for traveiling; they are worn
with the hair outwards. Their food consists of
coarse oat and barley cakes, fish, milk, and pota-
toes; occasionally a small piece of mutton or
pork, the latter of which, by the by, is very in-
ferior, as the pigs are generally fed upon fish.
Their chief drink is a liquor called bland, or the
fluid that remains after the butter has been re-
moved from the churn; it is much used by all
classes in the summer time. Travelling in Shet-
land is very disagreeable and inconvenient; the
chief conveyance is by water in open boats, or by
their native ponies ; it is also requisite to have a
guide to accompany you, as there are no roads. I
should have given a table of their charges for
the benefit of those who may travel there, but
I find it difficult to make a fixed statement, it
varies so much, according to the state of the

14 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

weather. I find the statement of Dr. Edmonston
agrees nearly with my own calculation; I shall
therefore give it according to his account: but it
must be understood, that in travelling by water
you are frequently obliged to land short of your
intended destination, through bad weather, and
are sometimes detained several days, to the sad
increase of your expenses; you have also the crew
to pay in addition to the passage fare. The
freight of a boat with six men from Unst to
Fetlar is 2s. 6d.; Uzea Sound to Reafirth, 6s. ;
Burra Voe to Lunna, 6s.; Burra Voe to Sym-
bister, 9s.; Whalsey to Lerwick, 12s.; Catfirth
to Lerwick, 6s.; Lerwick to Dunrossness, 14. ;
Scallaway to Sand or Rewick, 6s. I generally
found that a voyage in a four-oared boat cost me
one shilling a mile; the fares across the small
ferries are in proportion. The usual charge in
Shetland for horse-hire is about threepence per
mile, or you may engage for the day, when you
pay, according to the part of the country you may
be in, from 1s. 6d. to 3s. per day. The allowance
to the guide is from ls. 6d. to 2s, per day; they
will not scruple to ask more, and I should advise
the traveller on all occasions to make a bargain
before starting. If you wish to hire a boat on
a shooting excursion for the day, with two men,

-TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 15

the charge is 6s., one third of which they deduct,
according to their mode of calculation, for the
wear and tear of the boat, the remainder being di-
vided between themselves.

The Shetland peasantry are remarkably super-
stitious, and they firmly believe in necromancy 3
this one would attribute to ignorance and their
mode of life, but I have found that the minds of
many of the superior classes were well tinctured
with the same feeling: on no subject are they
more superstitious than in everything relative to
fishing ; in fact, the lower orders never undertake
anything which they conceive to be of importance
without first consulting their oracle, which is in
general some old dame, who has enjoyed for
many years the important privilege of foretelling
to others the future events of their lives, while
she remains in the darkest ignorance of what is
to happen to herself: her answer to the questions,
whether favourable or otherwise, may in general
be calculated, according to the value of the fee
she receives, which is an undisputed part of the
agreement, and must always be paid beforehand ;
in fact, the spirits would not obey her command
unless this was scrupulously attended to. I re-
member one tale which has been often told me,
and as I find that a late traveller has thought it

16 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

worth recording I shall take the liberty of repeat-
ing it. It runs thus: An inhabitant of the island
of Unst, while walking along the sandy margin of
a voe, saw a number of fairies dancing, by moon-
light (of course), and several seal-skins strewed
about them on the ground; at his approach they
all fled to secure their garbs, and taking upon
themselves the form of seals, plunged immedi-
ately into the sea; but the Shetlander, perceiving
that one skin lay close to his feet, snatched it up,
bore it swiftly away, and concealedit. Returning
to the shore he met the fairest creature he had
ever gazed upon, lamenting the robbery by which
she should become an exile from her submarine
friends, and a tenant of the upper world; vainly
she implored the restitution of her property, for
the man was too far overpowered with her fasci-
nating appearance to listen to her equitable de-
mand, and had already drunk deep of the intoxi-
cating draught of love; her prayers and her
entreaties that he would restore her to her friends
were alike in vain; he offered to make her his
bride, and she, perceiving that the upper world
must now be her sphere, accepted his offering.
This strangely combined attachment existed for
some years ; several children were the fruits of it,
who bore no other resemblance to their mother

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. lif

than a particular bend of the hand, and the rudi-
ments of a web between the fingers; which peculia-
rity is said to be possessed by their descendants
to the present day. The Shetlander’s love for his
fairy bride was unbounded, but his affection was
coldly returned. The lady would often steal
unobserved to a particular part of the sea-shore,
and on a signal being given, a large seal would
make his appearance, with whom she held in an
unknown tongue an anxious conference. Years
glided away in this manner, when one of her
children found concealed beneath some rubbish
near the house a seal’s skin, and delighted at the
discovery ran with the prize to its mother; her
eyes glistened with rapture, she recognised it as
her own, and gazed on it as the means by which
she could pass through the ocean to her original,
her native home. She burst forth into an ecstasy
of joy, which was only moderated when she beheld
her children whom she was about to leave for ever,
and after hastily embracing them, she fled with all
speed to the sea-side. Her husband entered im-
mediately afterwards, and having been informed of
the discovery that had taken place, ran to over-
take his wife, but only arrived in time to witness
her transformation into the form of a seal, and see
her bound from a ledge of rock into the sea; the

18 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

large animal with whom she had held so much
secret converse soon appeared, and evidently
congratulated her in the most affectionate manner
on her escape: but before she dived she cast a
parting glance at the wretched Shetlander, whose
despairing look excited in her bosom a few tran-
sient feelings of commiseration. ‘‘ Farewell !”’ she
-said, “‘and may every happiness attend you! Du-
ring my stay on earth I loved you tenderly, but
I could not forget in my happiest moments the
husband I had left a tenant of the deep. I loved
you much, I loved him more.’’ She bade the poor
fellow a lasting farewell, and then plunged into
the depths of the ocean.

Another superstitious tale, relative to seals,
which I have frequently heard, but have not
seen it recorded, I shall also relate as it was told
to me by the boatmen with whom I visited the
place. A boat’s crew landed at ebb tide upon
some rocks, or skerries as they are called by the
natives, on which were a number of seals, for the
purpose of killing them. They had stunned a
great many with their weapons, and in this
state stripped them of their skins, with the
blubber attached to them, leaving the carcasses as
a treat to the sea-birds, many of which were
hovering over their heads impatient to commence

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 19

the banquet. They had been too much occupied
in flinshing the seals to observe that a heavy
swell had set in directly upon the rocks; they
were about to set off for the shore of Papa Stour,
when, perceiving the danger of their situation,
they all flew to the boat as quickly as possible,
and were successful in getting into it excepting
one poor unfortunate fellow who had lingered
behind. The crew, unwilling to leave their
companion to perish on the rock, made several
unsuccessful attempts to back the boat to the
skerry, but the swell increasing rapidly they were
reluctantly compelled to leave him to his fate ;
and having offered up a prayer for his preserva-
tion, pulled for the land, which they reached in
safety. A stormy night coming on, the deserted
Shetlander saw no prospect before him but that
of perishing with cold and hunger, or of being
washed into the sea by the waves, which every
moment threatened to break over the rocks. At
length he perceived many of the seals who by
flight had escaped the attack of himself and his
companions approach the skerry, disrobe them-
selves of their watery dress, and assume the form
of fairies; their first object was to assist in the
recovery of their friends, who, having been
stunned, in that state had been stripped of their

20 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

skins, and who, on recovering their sensibility,
also assumed the form of fairies, and lamented in
the most mournful strains, wildly accompanied by
the storm, the loss of their sea dresses, which would
prevent them from ever again enjoying their
native azure atmosphere, or meeting in their coral
mansions, which lay below the deep waters of
the Atlantic. Their chief lamentations were for
Ollavitimus, son of Groga, who having been
stripped of his seal-skin would be for ever parted
from his comrades, and condemned to perpetual
exile in the upper world. Their song was sud-
denly interrupted on perceiving one of their
enemies near to and anxiously observing them,
his limbs shivering with cold, and appearing in
the utmost despair. Groga immediately con-
ceived the idea of rendering the perilous situation
of the poor fellow subservient to the recovery of
her son; she addressed him with mildness, re-
gretted the misfortune which had placed him
there, sympathized with him on his hopeless situ-
ation, and at length proposed to carry him safe
on her back across the sea to the shore of Papa
Stour, on condition of receiving the skin of Olla-
vitimus in return for her service. The bargain
was immediately struck, to the no small joy of
the poor fellow, Groga instantly clad herself in

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. pie} |

her waterproof dress, but the Shetlander grew
pale with fear when he observed the stormy
waters he had to cross, and particularly with
such a conveyance; he therefore very prudently
begged leave of the matron that he might be per-
mitted, for his better preservation, to cut a few
holes in her sides and flanks, in order to procure
between her skin and flesh a more secure fasten-
ing for his hands and feet. The request being
complied with the man grasped the neck of the
seal, and committed himself to her care; she
scrupulously performed her promise, and landed
him in safety on the shore, when he immediately
went in search of the skin, which he was success -
ful in finding, and brought it to the lady. They
parted mutually satisfied, Groga taking with her
the skin of her son, the only thing that would
restore him te his lost home, one of those coral
mansions, over which the sea spreads its green
mantle.

Seals were regarded by the Shetlanders in the
earlier periods of Christianity as fallen. angels,
who for some act they had committed were con-
demned to dwell in the sea, with the privilege of
assuming other forms. They had also the name
ef Sea Frows given thei, as be.onging to the

Prince of Darkness. Brand seems to have con-

TZ ' THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

firmed this view by assenting to the opinion of
the sailors, that they were devils, who, in the
shape of seals, destroyed their fishing-nets, adding,
** It seems more than probable that evil spirits
frequented both the land and the sea.”’

I shall now return, after this long digression,
to give a description of my own proceedings.
Immediately after my landing I set about the
business of my journey, and having procured
lodgings, the next thing necessary was to engage
aman as servant, to accompany me either in the
boat or on shore. I had not much difficulty in
accomplishing this, and selected one who, with
nany other good qualifications, was a pretty good
shot, and who on many occasions was very
useful to me in that capacity. I engaged this
man on both my visits to the Shetland Islands,
and only speak the truth and pay him a just
compliment when I say, he was at all times very
attentive, and, above all, perfectly honest and
faithful in the discharge of his duty. The wages
I paid him were nine shillings per week, whether
I had occasion for his services or not, and an
additional allowance of spirits and biscuit, the
quantity of which was regulated by ouf journey
and the state of the weather ; he was also to have
the blubber of the seals, if any were shot. I next

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 93

engaged a boat, which during my stay in Lerwick
I hired by the day; the owner, who accompanied
us, and my servant were quite sufficient to manage
on short journeys, such as shooting along the
shore in the neighbourhood, &c. In this manner
I visited all the voes or inlets of the sea within
seven or eight miles of Lerwick. The birds I
procured on these expeditions were chiefly Eider
and Long-tailed Ducks, Great Northern and Red-
throated Divers; the two latter species are not
very plentiful in this part of Shetland, and are
extremely shy, and difficult to obtain a shot at.
The Crested and other Shags are plentiful about
the south entrance of the harbour, and the Rock
Pigeon is to be found on the cliffs in the neigh-
bourhood, but are not numerous. After having
spent some time in collecting specimens of the
above birds, I was informed that a small island
in the neighbourhood was a favourite breeding-
place of the Arctic Gulls, and being anxious to
obtain some I immediately set off thither. The
island is called Noss, and is situated at the east
end of the Island of Bressa, from which it is
separated by a narrow sound. The east end of
Noss Island rises abruptly from the sea to the
height of 600 feet, the summit of which consider-
ably overhangs the base, from which circumstance

"a

24 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

__ it receives the name of Noss Head, or Hang Cliff.

In the crevices of this rock almost all the various
species of sea birds breed in perfect security ; and
about half a mile to the north-west of this is a
deep cavern in the cliff, which the natives call
the Doo Cave, from the number of Rock Pigeons
which are always to be found there. The island
gradually descends towards Bressa, where there

are good landing-places; it is very fertile; the

lowest ground is covered with moss, and the sides
of the hill, and even the top, with long grass. It
was amongst the moss and the long grass at the
lower part of the hill that I found the nests of the
Arctic Gulls. I shot a great number of the old
birds, and got several eggs. After my return
from the North Island I visited this piace again,
for the purpose of obtaining the young birds,
which I was fortunate enough to precure. The
island abounds with rabbits, and the farmer who
lives on and rents it is anxious to have them
exterminated, on account of their destroying his
crops.

Having obtained specimens of the various birds,
I now felt anxious to visit the Northern Islands,
and having everything prepared, I set off on the
11th of June in an open boat, with four men, my
own man, and my son, for Catfirth. During the

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND,. 25

first stage from Lerwick, we had a very rough
passage, and after getting clear out at the north
entrance of the harbour I regretted extremely that
I had left the land; but the danger being fully as
great in returning as in proceeding, I determined
upon the latter, greatly against the inclination of
the boatmen, and after cheering them with a
little exhilarating cordial we proceeded on our
journey. The sea broke into the boat several
times, and not being in possession of waterproof
clothing we were all soon wet through. The
boatmen being exhausted with contending so long
against wind and sea, we kept as near the land as
prudence would allow, and observing a place I
considered favourable to land on, we ran the hoat
ashore, hauled her up after baling out the water,
and then rested ourselves on the rocks. Taking
advantage of this short respite we made a bold
attack upon the eatables, for the destruction of
which we were well prepared. Having refreshed
ourselves, we launched the boat, and commenced
the second part of our voyage, which we safely
terminated by reaching Catfirth at ten o’clock in
the forenoon. This, however, was not the end of
my journey; I had to travel a distance of five or
six miles further by land, to Osnafirth Voe; and
if the passage by water had been disagreeable and
Cc

26 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

dangerous, this portion of the route was not
without its inconveniences. There is no regular
road between these places, and the traveller may
take any direction most agreeable to himself.
There is one small public-house at Catfirth, where
I remained during the time the landlord was pro-
curing the necessary number of men and horses
to convey us to Osnafirth. When the signal was
given that all was ready, I found our troop to
consist of two men, two women, two horses, my
man, my son, and myself. One of the horses,
which had been selected for his strength, carried
140 pounds of shot, on the other I placed my son
and a little luggage; my guns and the remainder
of the luggage were carried by the guides and
women. We now commenced our pilgrimage
from Catfirth, and from leaving that place to
arriving at Osnafirth we did not meet a single in-
dividual, either to ask any impertinent questions or
to laugh at our grotesque appearance. The greater
part of the way we travelled in a glen, or rather
on the side of the hili, which was chosen on ac-
count of its being better ground. The prospect was
beautiful, with lofty hills on both. sides of us, in
many places scantily covered with vegetation,
while in the valley were many lakes, some sepa-
rated from each other by a slight rising ground,

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 27

which nevertheless was quite boggy; others con-
nected by a small stream, giving the whole a wild
and romantic appearance. About half way between
Catfirth and Osnafirth, on the side of the hill, is a
small cavern or grotto; it is called by the Shet-
landers the half-way house, and is the only place
during the journey in which you can get shelter
from the weather: those who have refreshments
with them stop here for the double purpose of
eating and of resting themselves, and on such occa-
sions it makes a very comfortable dining-room. The
path to it is rugged on account of the stones which
have fallen from the sides of the rocks, but the
cavern itself is smooth, and not so damp as might
be expected from its situation. We halted here
and took some refreshment, during which the
Shetlanders, as usual, entertained us with some
superstitious story relative to the place. As soon
as the articles of food had disappeared,—not how-
ever by being returned into the repositories from
which they had been taken,—I gave the word to
march, which we did in extended line. The re-
mainder of the country to our journey’s end was
the same in appearance, bleak and bold. I ob-
-served a few of the Common Curlew on the sides
of the hill, and according to our guide’s account it
breeds here: occasionally a Golden Plover or two
c2

28 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

rose up before us, but during the journey we saw
very few birds of any kind. After a fatiguing
journey we safely arrived at Osnafirth without any
accident or misfortune having happened to us, ex-
cepting a laughable somerset which my little boy
and the horse he rode made in descending one of
the steep hills. I here parted with my guide

horses, and female attendants.

Osnafirth is surrounded with tremendously high
hills, and is a small place with only a fewstraggling
houses; there is no house appropriated for the
reception of travellers, and any one visiting the
place must be indebted to the kindness and libe-
rality of Dr. Addy, who has a neat comfortable
house near the town, and whose door is always open
to strangers visiting the country. Many others
along with myself can bear testimony to his ho-
spitality. It was in his house we got some refresh-
ment, and during the time we were so agreeably
occupied, Dr. Addy sent his servant to hire a
boat for our conveyance, as I had determined to
proceed to Aceter in Northmaven, a distance of
sixteen miles further, whither I could proceed by
water, Osnafirth being situated on the west side
of the main-land at the head of a long inlet open-
ing into the Western Ocean. During the season
they occasionally catch a great number of herrings

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. » 29

at this place, and, as is the case in all parts of the
Shetland Islands, almost every other description
of fish may be taken. Previous to my arrival they
had caught a female basking shark in their nets,
which had no doubt become ensnared in its chace
after the herrings: it was the first that had been
taken there; the fishermen informed me they had
never seen one before, and were ignorant of its
name. Having got our luggage into the boat we
took leave of our kind host at ten o’clock at night,
and proceeded down the voe, the land on either
side of which was very high with steep rocks next:
to the sea. At this season of the year and in this
latitude the nights are very short. At midnight it
was so light that we could easily distinguish the
land on either side of us; byoneo’clock in themorn-
ing we could see objects at some distance very di-
stinctly, and the sun rose soon after. The different
species of Gulls,excepting the Arctic and Skua,are.
very numerous here; and as we pulled along close
to the cliffs, accidentally disturbing some from their.
resting-places, they sallied out on the signal of:
alarm being given, and gave us a tune in theabsence.
of other music, which certainly was anything but.
harmonious. We had now got nearly to the mouth
of the voe, when the boatmen I had engaged at
Osnafirth delicately hinted to my servant that they

30: THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

should feel much better, provided they were in—
dulged with a glass of whiskeyeach. Accordingly}
ordered him to serve out the desired quantity; and
I certainly think it had a wonderful effect. They
had been pulling a long time and began to show
symptoms of fatigue ; the spirit seemed to infuse
fresh vigour into them ; they changed their style of
pulling from the short dabble to the long stroke,
and we were quickly out of the voe into the West-
ern Ocean. The weather for some time had been
yemarkably fine, and as the wind was blowing off
the land, the Atlantic was as smooth as oil, and
its glassy surface unbroken even by a ripple; but
there was the constantly rolling swell peculiar te
that sea, not so heavy however as to make a pas-
sage in a beat disagreeable.

- The scene which here presented itself was truly
beautiful, and requires a master-mind to do it jus-
tice. In front of the voe we came in sight of
three high rocks; they are very small, and stand off
Tiswickness in the sea, and viewed from where
they first came in sight, to us they were like a
schooner under sail, but as we drew nearer to
them they gradually changed into a three-master ;
they are very high, and I believe of granite forma-
tion. Behind uswerethe high mountains and rocky
cliffs of the mainland; the tops of the mountains

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND.. 31

in the interior were enveloped in fog. The sun was
just rising above the lowest hills in the east, which
gave a richness to the picture surpassing descrip-
tion. After stopping a short time to enjoy this
wild scene of nature, we pulled along the land
under the high black cliffs towards what is called
the South Voe, which leads to within a quarter of
amile of Aceter. The Gulls are equally as numer-
ous along this coast as in the inlets, and saluted
us as we passed, which I occasionally returned, but
with hostile intention. On entering the South Voe
I saw two pairs of Eider Ducks; I endeavoured to
get a shot at them, but they were too shy. Itis a
great chance to get within a hundred yards of them
in a boat propelled with oars, while in a sailing-
boat you may get pretty near. This inlet is nearly
two miles long, and at an early hour in the morn-
ing I expected to have fallen in with more ducks,
but was disappointed. We soon arrived at the head
of the voe, and from here we had a distance of a
quarter of a mile to walk overland to Aceter, my
intended place of residence for some time. The
boatmen being loaded with the luggage, we pro-
ceeded on at a slow march for the village, which on
our arrival, at this early hour, was speedily in an
uproar; the alarm was first given by the dogs, and
the pigs (animals which enjoy high privileges in

32 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

this country) joining the cry, drew themselves out
in martial array, as if determined to dispute our
further entrance. The watchword was speedily
passed to the interior of the mansions, and was
first answered by the children, whose squalling,
combined with the barking and grunting, produced
such melody as could not have failed to dishearten
any stranger from entering into their society. The
men and women quickly sallied out to ascertain
the cause of this sudden interruption of their slum-
bers, almost in a state of nudity, and stood staring
at us in mute astonishment. There are but three
families in the town, all fishermen ; and althougk
the trunks are so few in number, yet the branches
are very numerous. The population in this place is
certainly on the increase; I do not know whether
it is in proportion to the production or not, but
from the appearance of the place and the country
around it I should say they are not equal. I used
often to wonder what might be the cause of this pro-
Hfic quality of the inhabitants, whether their diet or
mode of life might have any effect ; the former is
extremely simple, fish, milk, and potatoes being
the chief articles : fishing in the summer and farm-
ing in the winter are their only occupation. The
climate in the summer and autumnal months is
pretty steady, in the winter and spring damp ang

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND.- 33

changeable; but perhaps there is something in it
more than is dreamt of in our philosophy. If the
place itself possesses any virtue, in time it might
become the Brighton of Shetland,and a fashionable
resort for those who unfortunately want heirs to
their estates; at any rate they need not depart
without one, for they can have choice from a fine
healthy lot ready made.

One of the families had heard previous to my
arrival of my intention of visiting the place,
and anticipating my wants had prepared a pretty
comfortable room for me, into which I had my
things conveyed. I now parted with my buat-
men, after giving them a glass of whiskey each,
and they set off on their return home. As the
weather was still fine, I determined not to delay
a moment, although I should have much enjoyed a
few hours’ sleep. I consequently ordered my ser-
vant, while breakfast was getting ready, to hire a
boat, as I intended to go out shooting immediately :
he accomplished his errand, and soon returned. I
then sat down to a comfortable breakfast; the
table was certainly not overloaded with delicacies,
but we had fish taken that morning, eggs warranted
fresh, cold fowl, tolerable coffee, and cream in
abundance. I did ample justice to it, the fatigues
of the journey and the sea air having given me an

C5

34 THE ORNITHOLOGIST S GUIDE

excellent appetite. My servant, who received the
second edition, rather grumbled at being disturbed
so soon from his meal, and muttered something
about impatience, which I think he had little occa-
sion to do. Had he sat much longer he would have
spared the landlady the trouble of removing either
eatables or drinkables from the table, for he was
rapidly depositing them into his own larder; how-
ever, a glass of spirits prevented all further dispute,
and we set off for the boat. We crossed the inlet
called Rona’s Voe, for the purpose of getting to a
celebrated hill named Rona’s Hill, which is a fa-
vourite breeding-place for sea birds, and of which
the Frontispiece is a faithful delineation. It is
the highest hill in Shetland, and is said to be

3944 feet above the level of the sea, towards which

the cliffs are rugged and perpendicular, and being
exposed to the force of the Atlantic Ocean, it is ex-
ceedingly difficult and dangerous to get to them.
It was the fineness of the weather that tempted

1e to visit it so early after my arrival; another
inducement was, its being a favourite breeding-
place of theSkua Gulls, of whichI was particularly
anxious to obtain some specimens. We landed
and commenced the ascent, the guide leading the
way. The ground is very uneven and difficult to
travel over, but after two hours’ exertion, with

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 33,

great fatigue we arrived at the summit, when the
delightful and extensive prospect amply repaid us
for the trouble. At one view we could embrace
the whole of the Shetland Islands, washed by the
Atlantic and German Oceans ; while the land ap-
peared to be drawn within a narrow compass, and
to lie completely beneath us. The remainder of the
island of Northmavyen, which is celebrated for the
variety and magnificence of its rocky scenery, was
poor in comparison. The land is everywhere in-
terspersed with lakes, which, as the sun was shin-
ing brilliantly at the time, presented a beautiful
contrast to the dark scenery around. It is rarely
that so favourable an opportunity occurs of viewing
the island from the summit of this hill, as it is
frequently enveloped for days together in a dense
fog, while the lower grounds remain perfectly clear.
The upper part of the hill is covered with loose
pieces of red granite ; the vegetation is very scanty,
and the temperature of the atmosphere differs con-
siderably from that of the lower ground. An old
building, supposed to have been erected by the
Picts, formerly stood on the top of this hill,and was
called by the fishermen the ‘‘ Look-out House ;”’
but some man-of-war’s men visiting the place
erected a pole, and took the stones of the old
building for a pedestal on which to place the staff.
There is a kind of cellar still remaining, covered

36 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

with two large stones. These probably were toc
heavy, or the sailors in their work of destruction
would have removed them also. This place affords
a little shelter for taking refreshment in; and a
custom prevails, the origin of which is very ob-
scure, for every visitor to drop a piece of money
or a button behind the large stones that cover
the apartment. I observed a great number of
bones belonging to various animals and birds
strewed about the place, that had been picked te
satisfy the keen appetite of former travellers after
their ascent. ,

I now descended the north side of the hill
by a gradual slope for the distance of two miles.
I heard some Plovers, and immediately after-
wards fell in with a pair of Skua Gulls, which
I fortunately shot ; this stimulated me to perse~-
vere, and I found several more: this I considered
to be worth all the time I had spent, and the fa-
tigue I had suffered. We now returned to the
boat by a different route, and found the road muck
better for travelling, as well as easier for either
ascending or descending the hill. We arrived at
our quarters at midnight, at which hour I could
see to read the smallest print. After getting some
refreshment and a glass of toddy I retired to rest,
greatly fatigued from the day’s excursion and from
want of sleep, but highly pleased with my success.

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. By §

<

The next morning, feeling greatly refreshed, and
anxious to procure a further supply of birds, I pro-
ceeded down Rona’s Voe, which is a long narrow
inlet with high cliffs on each side, and presents one
of the most romantic scenes I have witnessed, the
cliffs being bold and rocky, the hills arcund gra-
dually rising, while high above them all stands the
majestic Rona, its summit towering to the clouds,
defying both time and tempest. At certain times
this voe abounds with seals ; during my first visit
I shot twenty-six; likewise Crested Shags, Red-
breasted Mergansers, Large Black-backed Gulls,
Black Guillemots, Lesser Black-backed Gulls,
Herring Gulls, &c. Very few of the Duck tribe fre-
quent this voe. I never saw more than three Eider
Ducks in it, two of which I shot. Many of the
sea birds breed in these cliffs, but most of them are
far too high and dangerous to attempt their ascent
for the purpose of procuring the eggs. Being
anxious to visit the west side of Rona’s Hill, or
that part which is exposed to the Western Ocean,
and the morning being tolerably fine, we set off to
make the attempt, but were disappointed, a heavy
swell from the westward setting directly into the
voe, and preventing us from getting out. This
being the case, my old boatman informed me that
we were near toa landing-place ; and as it was im-

38 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

possible to go round by water to the part I parti-
cularly wished to visit, I determined again to cross
over the hill; wetherefore proceeded to the landing-
place mentioned by the guide, but were again dis-
appointed, for after landing, we could not get up
the rocks they were so steep; we then proceeded
in the boat a little further to the westward, tried
the second place, and succeeded, hut not without
some difficulty. This was a part of the island I
had not visited; and wishing to cross the hill to
the place where I obtained the Skua Gulls on my
first excursion, | put myself under the guidance
of the old boatman, who I soon found was as igno-
rant of the routes across this part of these hills as
myself. I fortunately happened to have my pocket
compass with me, which was now our only di-
rector, and on this as well as many other occasions
it proved of essential service. We proceeded over
three tolerably large hills, gradually increasing in
height, and lying in a due north direction, I se-
lected this route, conceiving that from the situa-
tion of the place where we landed, it would lead
us near to the spot where I found the Skua Gulls.
The result proved I was not mistaken, for after
travelling a few hundred yards further I was agree-
ably surprised to hear some of them squeaking.
I soon found them, and procured several, along’

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. oa

with one Arctic Gull. After spending some time,
we returned towards the boat, but in a different
direction; this I did for the purpose of seeing as
much of the country as possible, and of procuring
any specimens I could find. When I mentioned
to the old boatman my determination to return by
a different route, he expressed his disinclination in
language by no means suitable to a delicate ear,
adding that if I attempted it we should not arrive
at home that night, for to his experienced eye, the
fog would soon be so thick as to render it impossi-
ble for us to find our way, though at that time there
was not the smallest appearance of it. Be it as it
would, I was determined to proceed in the direc-
tion I had chosen; and sure enough in a short
time we were completely enveloped,—not in such
fogs as 1 have witnessed in England, but one so
dense and substantial as to make one fancy it might
be cut with a knife, or, to use the expression of
my guide, “ so thick you might sup it with a
spoon.” As we drew nearer to the bottom of the
hill and towards the water, we gradually got clear
of the fog, which remained stationary on the hills.
On arriving at the water’s edge we could distinctly
see the land on the other side of the inlet, where
the sun was shining very brilliantly, while the
tops of the hills there were also covered. It fre-

40 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

quently occurs in this country, when the wind is in
a particular quarter, that the higher parts of the
hills are invisible, while the lower grounds are per-
fectly clear. We found some difficulty in getting
down the rocks into the boat, and the boatmen
were very glad when they got safe on board, not
having much faith in my steering by the compass
on land in thick weather.

The next morning I set off for Stenness, a fishing-
station, distant about seven miles, and as we had to
travel by land, I procured one man and a boy as
guides, and two horses to carry the luggage; on
our way we called upon Mr. John Sheen at Tanwick,
and experienced another instance of Shetland ho-
spitality. Mr. Sheen is one of the principal land-
lords in the neighbourbood. After partaking of
some refreshment, and making him acquainted with
the object of my visit to that country, he politely
invited me to remain at his house, assuring me he
would do all in his power to make me comfortable,
and assist me in procuring specimens. I thanked
him for his liberality, but declined the offer of his
kindness, as the situation was not adapted to my
pursuits. Before we parted, he insisted on my
visiting him that evening from Stenness, which
he informed me was about one mile and a half
from his residence. We proceeded on our journey,

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 41

and soon arrived at the fishing-station, a most
miserable place, composed of a few straggling
fishermen’s huts. The weather was boisterous,
and consequently the fishermen were at home;
some attending to the fish undergoing the process
of salting and drying, others preparing their lines.
Many boats were drawn up on the beach, giving
it acheerless appearance. As soon as our cavale
cade arrived, all work instantly ceased, that they
might have an opportunity of scrutinising the
strangers, or asking questions with an impertinent
curiosity peculiar to the Shetland peasantry. The
examination did not terminate until we removed
ourselves from their observation. The first thing
necessary was to procure lodgings for the men,
which after some time I accomplished in one of
the best-looking huts in the place, hung inside and
out with fish; the smell of some, in a state of
putrefaction, being by no means an agreeable ac-
companiment: however, by this time I was well
habituated to the living as well as dead nuisances
infesting a Shetland hut. I returned in the even-
ing to Mr. Sheen’s at Tanwick, and after spending
a pleasant evening and enjoying a comfortable
night’s rest, which through the kindness of that
gentleman I was spared from passing in the hut
at Stenness, I breakfasted, joined my compa-

492 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

nions, and found a six-oared boat I had engaged
the night previous in readiness for me, and we
immediately proceeded for the islands of Eskness,
which are small, and are situate at the mouth of
the bay of Stenness, forming a natural breakwater,
and affording shelter to the fishing-station from
the wind and sea. The weather was stormy, and
a heavy swell was setting on the islands, but I
managed to shoot a female Eider Duck, and took
the nest with five eggs. These birds are some-
_ times very numerous here, along with the Oyster-
eatcher, Terns, &c., of each of which species I pro-
cured several eggs. There is good pasturage upon
these islands in the summer season, on which the
inhabitants of Stenness take the advantage of
browsing a few sheep. In landing on the outer
island an accident happened to me which might
have been attended with serious consequences.
The swell being very heavy at the time, we durst
not approach so near as to step out of the boat
upon the rocks, but had to watch the opportu-
nity of a swell raising us so that we could spring
out upon them. This I attempted to do with a
gun in my hand, but instead of landing on the
rocks, I fell directly under the bow of the boat,
which the next sea would have thrown upon me
but for the exertions of the boatmen. I fortu-

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND:: 43

nately got hold of the rocks with both hands, but
was obliged to remain for a few seconds lying at
full length, with the gun under my breast, desti-
tute of the power of getting any higher and the
sea washing up to my neck at every swell, before
I could obtain a slight hold for my feet ; and not
without great difficulty and using great caution, I
at length got upon dry ground. Another gun was
thrown to me from the boat, as the one I had with
me had, like myself, received a good ducking.
After wandering about the island some time with-
out finding anything worth shooting, or to reward
me for the trouble I had taken in getting upon it,
I returned to the boat, which I was fortunate
enough to get on board of without a repetition of
the immersion. I soon found that Stenness was
not a suitable place for shooting, or at least that
it was not the season when the birds are most
plentiful there. The next day was spent in boat-
ing, and collecting information from the fisher-
men as to where the greatest number of birds were
to be found. I bought of one of the fishermen
several very fine pieces of native coral, and left
him a box, with directions if he should get any
more to send it after me. Stenness is merely a
temporary place of residence for the fishermen
who come here from different parts to fish. The
season commences on the 12th of May and ter-

44 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

minates on the 12th of August. About forty boats
arrive here annually; each boat’s crew, which
‘ in general amounts to six in number, have 4
hut, in which they live during the season, com-
posed of loose stones indiscriminately thrown to-
gether, neither wind- nor water-tight ; the roof is
covered with turf and moss, through which in wet
weather the water finds an easy passage. I spent
the evening with Mr.Sheen, and then returned to
Aceter, where the men with the luggage had gone
before me. The next day being Sunday, I attended
the church at Iswick, and I found it equally as
well filled, taking into consideration the part of the
country, as that at Lerwick: some of the congrega-
tion had to walk a distance of ten miles, and others
came a still greater distance in open boats. To
their infinite credit, the Shetlanders are secrupu-
lously attentive to the observance of the Sabbath,
and nothing but difficulties which they cannot sur-
mount prevents them from discharging this duty.
During the time of service they deport themselves
with a humility becoming a Christian, and which
might serve for an example to their southern neigh-
bours. On these occasions it is pleasing to see
the people so neatly dressed. The women, as is
the custom throughout the North of Britain, inva-
riably pull off their shoes and stockings during the
journey, and put them on again previous to enter-.

TO.ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 45

ing the church ; whether this is done from a mo-
tive of economy or cleanliness, I do not know, but
in my opinion it is carrying either to too great an
extreme, and is moreover a practice which .many
would gladly see dispensed with.

On the 2nd of July I went down the South 1 Voe
to Ilswickness, where I found several Eider Ducks,
but only shot one. The weather being too bois-
terous to allow of my going out to sea, I sailed to
a voe in the immediate neighbourhood, called
Gunnesta, where I shot another Kider Duck; from
thence to Hammee Voe, where I landed, and pro-
ceeded to a lake a short distance inland, in conse-
quence of having been informed that the Lesser
Black-backed Gull bred there. On arriving at
the edge of the lake, I shot a female Red-throated
Diver as she flew from her nest, if it deserves that
term: in the nest were two eggs; they were laid
close to the water’s edge, among a few loose stones,
and must inevitably have been overflown had there
been any wind on this the lee side. I was some-
what disappointed in not meeting with the Gulls;
but as there were two or three more lakes a short
distance from this, I thought it probable we might
fall in with them there. On visiting these lakes
I saw several Red-throated Divers, but very few
Gulls; the former had either been alarmed at the

46 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

report of my gun, or had observed us, and taken
flight to sea. In returning to the boat, I got a
shot at another Red-throated Diver, which I
killed.

On the 5th, the weather being fine, I made
another attempt to get to the west side of Rona’s
Hill, and succeeded; there was a considerable
swell, which prevented us approaching so close to
the rocks asI wished. Indeed it is very rare that
a boat dare venture to this place in the finest
weather, there being always a heavy swell here,
owing to its exposed situation, with nothing to
shelter it from the force of the Western Ocean ;
and while in other places the wind might be
blowing a pleasant breeze, it would here create a
sea so rough as to endanger the safety of a boat.
When viewed from the sea, this side of the hill
has a most barbarous appearance; the cliffs are
high and rugged, with several extensive chasms,
into which the sea was rolling and breaking against
their sides with a noise like distant thunder, the
white spray forming a beautiful contrast to the
black rocks. Not far from the land, at irregular
distances from each other, are many rocks, or |
stacks, some rising to a great height, resembling
the spire of a church, others only just appearing
above the surface of the water; there are also

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND, 47

many sunken ones, which are extremely dangerous
from the small depth of water upon them. Any
one who has seen the place will have no hesita-
tion in predicting what would be the fate of the
crew of any boat that might unfortunately be upset
here. These rocks, especially the highest ones,
are well inhabited with the different species of
Gulls ; it is also a favourite place for seals, and is
well adapted to their habits, the numerous caverns
in the cliffs affording them situations wherein to
breed and lurk in perfect security. I here shot
several Gulls, some of which were excellent speci-
mens; and I again visited this place for the pur-
pose of shooting seals, upon which occasion, when
we were about four miles from the mouth of the
voe, a strong breeze of wind sprung up from the.
westward, the sea at the same time rising very
rapidly; giving us sufficient warning to exert our-
selves, and endeavour to get into a place of secu-
rity as speedily as possible. For some time we
pulled in a direct line for Rona’s Voe, but the
wind, which had sprung up very rapidly abeam,
obliged us to alter our course, as the water threat-
ened every moment to break into the boat; we
therefore brought her head to the sea, intending,
with the assistance of the oars, to keep her in this
position, and weather out the gale.

48 THE ORNITHOLOGIST'S GUIDE

Not much liking the idea of remaining here
any length of time exposed to the storm, I held a
consultation with the boatmen as to the best mode
of proceeding. Some were for making a fair wind
of it, and advised that we should set sail and run
for an inlet about eight miles distant, observing
that it was nearly high water, and that when it
began to ebb the sea would be still more highly
agitated, and consequently the danger would be
greater; others dissented from this opinion and
were for taking to the oars again, for the pur-
pose of getting into Rona’s Voe. Thinking the
latter plan the most advisable, we put the boat
about and, pulled for the voe. The tide was al-
ready ebbing, forming another obstacle, and we
now had wind, tide, and sea to contend against.
We got some shelter for a few minutes behind
one of the large stacks, and during this respite
baled out the boat, trimmed her as well as we
could with the two seals I shot before the storm
came on, set my son astride of them, and held the
dog so as to keep the boat steady. I then asked
the men if they thought they were able to pull
the boat against wind and tide; they replied they
would try, but the majority were for turning back
to the other inlet, a proposition which I would not
agree to. I now gave the mena glass of whiskey

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 49

each and some biscuit, and proposed to make Rona’s
Inlet: this required a desperate effort. As there
was another stack a little distance from the one we
were sheltered under, and the sea by this time began
to break very fearfully between them, I determined
to wait for a ‘lull’, as the sailors call it, which
there generally is after three or four seas. Each of
us got an oar in his hands ready for the attempt ;
we counted the four seas, then pulled with all our
strength, and got out from between the two stacks
before the sea broke in again ; and being now out
of the greatest danger, we pulled on in this way for
four miles, during which time such was our anxiety
that I think there was not a word spoken by any
one. The wind was blowing so strongly against us
that we could not tell whether we were making
any way or not. When we arrived in the voe we
got shelter, and being both wet and fatigued, rested
ourselves and took a little more spirits. Several
seals had followed us; we could pay no attention
to them at the time, but having now got into shelter,
Iprepared my guns, as I expected they would come
around us ; and I was not disappointed, for as soon
as I had my gun ready, one came staring up at the
stern of the boat, which I shot instantly. We now
pulled to our landing-place, about two miles up the
yoe, and arrived at home about two o’clock in the
D

50 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

morning. The people told us they never expected
we had gone out of the voe in such a stormy day,
and the fishermen at the fishing-station would not
believe we had been on the west side of Rona’s
Hill and got safe on shore again in such a heavy
gale of wind.

On the 9th I took the boat and went to Voe, a
small village so called situated at the head of Rona’s
Voe, for the purpose of making arrangements
for my return to Lerwick, to effect which it was
necessary to hire a boat at Ollerberry, as 1 wished
not to return the same way I came, for the sake
of seeing more of the country. At Voe [ hired a
horse anda guide, and travelled overa highly moun-
tainous country to Ollerberry, where I had the ~
eleasure of meeting with Mr. Sheen (brother to the

entleman of that name who resides at Tanwick),
who very kindly invited me to remain at his house,
which invitation I accepted, as my business hap-
pened to be with himself; for he having all the men
in the place in his employ, it was necessary to ob-
tain a boat and crew from him. My request was
immediately granted, and he assured me that at
any time I chose to appoint the boat should be in
readiness, at the same time advising me to choose
moderate weather and when the tide was in our
favour; we should then be able to reach Lerwick

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 51

the same day. Indeed it is only in moderate wea-
ther that it is possible for boats to make the pas-
sage: the currents are so very rapid in the sound,
that many accidents have occurred, and a very me-
lancholy one had recently happened whereby se-
veral lives had been lost. It was witnessed by their
relations from the shore, who instantly rendered
every assistance, but unfortunately too late. After
spending the day very agreeably I returned by the
same route to Aceter, where I arrived late at night.
The next morning, the weather being moderate, I
went out for the purpose of shooting seals, which
were very numerous, but so extremely shy that I
was only able to procure a single specimen.
Rough weather, though disagreeable, I found to
be by far the best time for shooting these animals,
as I rarely succeeded in obtaining more than one
during moderate weather.

This day terminated my shooting excursions
amongst the north isles of Shetland. During the
night we were busy packing up, and early in the
morning we started in the boat for Voe, taking
with us as much luggage as possible, and leaving the
remainder to besentby the first trading-vessel to our.
head quarters at Lerwick. At Voe I procured the
necessary number of men, horses, &c., for the con-;
veyance of our luggage, and travelled on to Oller-

D2

52 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

berry, where we arrived in good time the next
morning, after a fatiguing journey, principally oc-
casioned by the badness of the road. Through the
kindness of Mr. Sheen a six-oared boat was quickly
ready, into which everything was stowed, and
‘after taking leave of our kind friend, whose obliging
manners I can never forget, we started for Ler-
wick, distant from this place about twenty-four or
twenty-five miles.

The day being remarkably fine, and the tide in
our favour, we pulled merrily along the east side
of the main land until we arrived at Lunna, where
we landed the boxes, &c., and dragged the boat
across a narrow neck of land into the sea, by which
means we saved ourselves a long pull round. We
then proceeded past LunnaHead into Walsey Sound,
and through that into Hog’s Sound, which is a very
narrow passage between two rocks, with only a
sufficient depth of water at high tide, and entered
the harbour of Lerwick by the north passage at ten
o'clock at night. I chose this route on account
of its being the shortest, and I considered myself
extremely fortunate in getting through it in one
day.

On the 15th I visited the island of Bressa, for the
purpose of collecting some Arctic Gulls, of which
IT got a few adults and also some of the young.

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 53

The four following days I remained at home
packing up my collection preparatory to leaving
Shetland.

On the 20th I again visited the island of Bressa,
and in the neighbourhood of Noss Head or Hang
Cliff shot several Guillemots, Razorbills, and
Kittewakes; the latter are more numerous here
than in any other part of Shetland. My principal
object was to procure some of their young in the
downy state. I found it impossible to climb the cliff,
and was therefore necessitated to obtain them by
firing at their nest and knocking them out. I could
soon have filled the boat with them had I wished
it, but desisted as soon as I had procured sufficient
for my purpose. At each shot the old birds flew
from the cliff in a complete cloud, and returned
to their nests before I could reload. It is
impossible for any one to imagine the number that
are here in the breeding-season. This summer two
young men attempted by some means to climb these
rocks, for the purpose of getting eggs. They had
succeeded in getting some distance up, when one of
them lost his hold, and was instantly precipitated
into the sea, and most probably struck against the
rocks, as he was never seen again. There are se-
veral cliffs, in the neighbourhood where the Herring
Gull breeds, and also a few of the Common Gull,

54 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

which are the scarcest of the tribe inShetland with
the exception of the Skua Gull.

I had now procured specimens of almost all the
birds to be found in Shetland excepting the Stormy
Petrel, and not wishing to leave the country with-
out obtaining some of them also, I proceeded on the
26th to Scallaway, the second town in point of im-
portance in Shetland : it is situated on the west side
of the mainland and is five miles from Lerwick.
I took with me two men to carry the luggage, and
arrived there at night. Having in the early part
of the summer seen several of the Stormy Petrels
flying about in the neighbourhood of some islands
lying a few miles off Scallaway, I determined upon
visiting them, as I considered that would be the
most likely means of obtaining some specimens,
more especially as it was now their breeding-season.
In the morning I landed on the islands, which we
diligently searchea for a length of time without
success. f was about leaving the fourth island, on
which, near the beach, many loose stones were
collected, when I was arrested by a cry coming
from among the stones, and knewing it to proceed
from some bird the note of which I was a stranger
to, I summoned our force and proceeded to remove
them in such a manner as to leave no place of

retreat.

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 55

We continued our labours for two hours, when I
at length found the little creature whose cry had
struck me, and to my gratification it proved to be
a Stormy Petrel; it was sitting on its nest, which
was composed of a few loose pieces of seaweed,
and contained one small white egg very minutely
spotted at the broader end with brown. It did
not make the least effort to escape. I took it in
my hand, and when there, it squirted an oily matter
from its nostrils at me two or three times in quick
succession. We had removed a great number of
stones, and amongst the remainder I could hear
many more birds chirping and running about,
which, as the females sat so closely to their nests,
I supposed to be males, disturbed by the noise
we had made. I therefore placed myself in a suit-
able situation and desired the men to continue their
work, expecting, as their places of retreat were cut
off, the male birds would fly out, and afford me an
opportunity of shooting a fewofthem. I was not
disappointed, for on the stones being removed the
birds flew out, and I shot several; my son also
caught one young one. The men durst not touch
them, as they were afraid of the oil they squirted
having some injurious effect. I remained here until
six o’ciock at night, when a thick fog coming on
suddenly, I thought it prudent to make the best of

56 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

my way back to Scallaway, which with great dif-
ficulty we effected by eight o'clock, all heartily
tired, after one of the most fatiguing days’ sport I
had in Shetland. 7

Early the next morning I again visited these
islands and saw several of the Common Heron,
which, as I had not seen one during the preceeding
four months, had, I presumed, migrated from the
south after the breeding-season was over. I was
fortunate enough to find another of the breeding-
places of the Stormy Petrel, and procured se-
veral of the birds and their eggs from among the
ruins of an old Pictish building situated close to
the shore, anda part of which we were obliged te
remove before we could get to the nests: I trust,
however, I have not given any great offence to the
lovers of antiquity by this demolition. The Stormy
Petrel does not fly much in the daytime, nor in
fine weather; as night approached they became nu-
merous on the wing, while the contrary might
have been expected, as we had been disturbing them
all day. I found my dog very useful on these oc-
casions; he soon understood what we were looking
for, and frequently detected single birds by scent
amongst the loose stones where they had secreted
themselves, when we should have passed such

situations as unworthy of notice. There was no

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 5F

difficulty in understanding him when he found one ;
he would stand close to the place wagging his tail,
and looking towards us in the most significant man-
ner. We returned to Scallaway very late at night,
but as I was particularly anxious to be at Lerwick I
determined to set off thither immediately. The two
men I had brought with me were so fatigued that
they were obliged to remain at Scallaway; I there-
fore engaged another man to accompany me, and to
carry part of my luggage: we arrived at Lerwick
at two o’clock in the morning very much fatigued.
It occupied me two days in skinning and prepar-
ing the specimens I had obtained on my last ex-
pedition, and there not being any ship in the har-
bour bound for Hull, I determined upon waiting
for one, several being daily expected. To spend
the time therefore as profitably as possible, on the
second of August I set off again for Scallaway,
leaving word that if any of the fishing-ships should
arrive in my absence notice was to be sent me. I
got several more Stormy Petrels, and one young
one. The day was excessively hot, and I was in-
formed the glass stood higher in the shade this
day than had been known for many years previ-
ously. In returning to Lerwick at night, the fog
was so dense that for some time I lost myself
amongst the hills, in consequence of not having

D5

53 THE ORNITHGLOGIST’S GUIDE

taken the regular road, but crossing the moors in
a direction most agreeable to myself and to save
distance. When I returned to Lerwick two fishing-
ships had arrived from Greenland, and reported
that the Abram of Hull might be expected daily.
On the 31th I went out at the north entrance of
the harbour, and shot one young Black Guillemot on
the water, being the first I had seen from the nest.
On the 22nd, while crossing over one of the hills,
I observed with my glass a ship out at sea appa-
rently steering forthe harbour. There being little
wind at the time, I did not think she would be able
to get in that night; however, I returned home
expecting it might be the Abram, and commenced
preparing my things for the passage. At eleven
o’clock at night the ship came to anchor, and she
proved to be the vessel 1 had expected. Early the
next morning I got my packages, &c. on board.
The Captain having settled his business on shore
we weighed anchor at eleven o’clock, and with a fair
wind proceeded out of the harbour, bidding adieu,
though I trusted not for the last time, to bleak
and barren Shetland, over whose mountains I had
had many severe days’ toil. To its hospitable in-
habitants I shall ever feel grateful ; for from them
I received the greatest kindness and attention, and
for them T shall ever entertain the highest respect.

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 5g

During the interval between my first and se-
cond visit several parties from the South travelled
through Shetland, principally for amusement, and
having fowling-pieces with them, destroyed in-
discriminately every bird that came within their
reach, in fact almost annihilated several species,
particularly the Skua Gull: a great number were
also shot by the officers of a cutter which was
stationed in Rona’s Voe for two or three months.
These gentlemen, I was told, destroyed great num-
bers of birds of all kinds, but particularly this Gull,
which would the more readily become a victim from
its habit of returning any attack upon it, thereby
affording the gunner a surer aim. Mr. Sheen
blamed me for thinning them more than any other
person: in this he was certainly mistaken, as Idid
not take so many as to injure the breed; these
gulls were however so scarce when [I last visited the
islands, that I had great difficulty in obtaining per-
missionto visitthe places where they breed, the land-
lord assigning as a reason for his refusal that the
birds had almost become extinct, but allowed me,
as a great favour, to shoot a single pair. He cer-
tainly had some reason to complain, for I found
their numbers considerably diminished.

In the course of my rude narrative the reader
will readily perceive the dangers of travelling in

60 THE ORNITHOLOGIST S GUIDE

Shetland by water, and the delays to which the tra-
veller is exposed on account of the weather; I have
frequently been out when boats have been swamped
not far from me, and considered myself extremely
fortunate in having escaped. |

It will not be necessary to give a minute de-
scription of the Orkney Islands; in appearance
they are similar to Shetland, but more fertile and
not so mountainous. Kirkwall is the capital, and
is far more pleasantly situated than Lerwick (the
capital of Shetland) and contains a greater number
of inhabitants, but I was not able to ascertain the
exact amount: the whole population of Orkney
is about thirty-three thousand. The ancient church
is built in the Gothic style and has three bells ; near
the church there is a beautiful ruin called the Old
Palace, and there are several very comfortable inns.
Stromness is the next town of note; it is not se
pleasantly situated as Kirkwall, being, like Ler-
wick, situated on the side of a hill, but is the re-
sort of a far greater number of shipping than
Kirkwall, in consequence of there being a very
gcod harbour, and sufficient depth of water for
ships of a very large draught to anchor in front of
the town; it also possesses the convenience ofa
patent slip, erected last year, whereby vessels can

be drawn up for the purpose of repairs. There are

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 61

two other small towns, viz., St. Margaret’s Hope
and Long Hope, where travellers may procure
very comfortable lodgings. The inhabitants of
Orkney get their living in a similar manner to the
Shetlanders, and the prices of provisions are much
the same. I made Stromness my head quarters, in
consequence of nearly all the birds that frequent
the Orkneys inhabiting within the distance of ten
or twelve miles.

After I had arrived at Stromness and obtained
lodgings, I inquired the price of boat-hire and
men’s wages, which I was informed were much
higher than in Shetland, and also that there would
be a difficulty in getting a boat at any time I
might require it. I therefore perceived it would
be necessary to buy a boat; and as I had my son
with me, who was about twelve years of age, I
thought we should be able to undertake many
short excursions alone, I having by this time ac-
quired tolerable skill in the management of a boat.
Accordingly I bought one that had formerly be-
longed to the preventive service, consequently
pretty well known to the country people, and a very
fine sea boat; I got her repaired, and painted each
side a different colour, for when I was in Shetland
I fancied the birds knew the boat I used from every
other. By the time she was ready for sea, the pur-

chase of the boat, sails, &c. cost me about eight

62 THE ORNITHOLOGIST § GUIDE

pounds. I made use of this boat on both my
visits to Orkney, a friend taking charge of her du-
ring the time I was at home. I found this a much
cheaper plan than hiring a boat, and after enga-
ging a pilot for a few trips, we were able to go all
round the islands by ourselves, excepting when it
was a calm, and then I was obliged to employ men
to row; this however is very seldom the case,
it more frequently blowing very hard. The tide
runs rapidly between these islands, and when the
wind happens to be against the tide the-sea soon
rises to a great height; in Hoy Sound, at spring
tides, the current runs nine or ten knots an hour.
The current is occasionally so strong that I have
seen a ship with all her sails set come in from the
westward with a fine breeze in her favour, and
passing through the water at a very rapid rate,
forced back again by the tide on arriving at the
narrowest part. These are very dangerous situa-~
tions for a boat and require great care. It is a
curious sight to see a boat cross this sound under
sail, particularly when the wind is from the east-
ward and the tide running to the westward, the
boat seems to fly so very rapidly sideways. I
was crossing this sound one very foggy night to
Stromness, when the current forced us out into the
Western Ocean; it was so dark that we mistook the

harbour, and were obliged to remain there until the

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 63

tide returned to bring us back, during which all
we could do was to keep the boat’s head to the sea.
At the time this happened I had a man with
me who pretended to be well acquainted with, and
able to pilot me about this neighbourhood,but of

course I never trusted to his pilotage afterwards.
I remained in Stromness about two months, and
visited all parts within twelve miles round.

There is an inlet about seven miles to the south-
ward of Stromness called Lerwick-burn, which is
frequented by the Northern Diver, Red-throated
Diver, Eider Duck, Velvet Duck, Long-tailed Duck,
Red-breasted Merganser, Sheldrake, Black Guille-
mot, and Oyster-catcher. At the mouth of this inlet
I shot two specimens of the Horned Grebe ; about
amile inland the ArcticGull breeds; Grouse, Snipes,
and Golden Plovers are plentiful on the hills, and
there is an island about half a mile distant, upon
which lie a considerable number of seais when the
tide begins to ebb, and where they will remain
during the ebb if they are not disturbed: those
who may wish to shoot them must approach very
cautiously ; they are generally to be found at the
lee side of the island.

After having procured specimens of the different
birds inhabiting this neighbourhood, we started
for the Northern isles. I engaged a man to go with

64 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

us as far as Scappy Bay, a distance of twelve or
fourteen miles from Stromness and one mile from
Kirkwall, and then engaged two carts to carry our
boat and luggage over land to Kirkwall, a practice
frequently resorted to in order to avoid the long
distance round by water. We stopped two days.
at Kirkwall, and then went in a sloop to Sandy,
distant about fifteen or twenty miles, our boat
being towed astern. We remained in Sandy about
three weeks. Mr. Strang, a very hospitable and
intelligent gentleman, resides here, at Lopeness,
near the lighthouse, who treated me very kindly,
and gave me all the information he could respec-
ting the localities where I sbould find the different
birds, and I may justly say he is the best ornitho- ©
logist I met with in Orkney ; here I got the Red-
necked Phalerope, Kider Duck, and Arctic Gull, but
the latter was not very plentiful. There is only
one lodging-house at Sandy, and I would recom-
mend any traveller going there to make an agree-
ment about his lodgings before entering, without
which precaution he is sure to be imposed upon;
I paid more here than at any other place where
I have travelled. We proceeded to Addy, a di-
stance of seven miles, where we got lodgings at a
moderate rate ; a small island lies off of this, called
the Holm of Addy, where the Arctic Gull, Common

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 65

Gull, Eider Duck, Red-breasted Merganser, Arctic
Tern and Grouse breed; this is one of the most
useful islands in Orkney; it supplies Sandy and
Westra with turf, these places being destitute of
this necessary article. The poorer class of people,
who are not able to purchase turf, are obliged to
burn cowdung and dried seaweed; the cowdung
appeared to be mixed with straw and light soil,
and is made into a kind of cake, which, when dried
a little, is set upon its edge to dry thoroughly, and
is then fit for burning : you may scent the houses
where this kind of firing is used at a great di-
stance, particularly if you are to leeward of them.
We remained at Addy about six weeks, and then
proceeded to Westra, distant about ten miles. This
was the worst passage we ever had; when start-
ing we got into a tideway called the Boar, and it
was with the greatest difficulty we contrived to get
out again; it was, moreover, such a short and
broken sea as I had never seen before, and is occa-
sioned by the meeting of two tides, the one running
out from between the islands, and the other along
the outside. We expected nothing else than that
the sea would rush into the boat every moment; for
it was breaking on all sides of us, and we had first
to twist the boat’s head one way and then another
to meet the sea, which would surely have swamped

66 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

us had we been ignorant of this precaution; and
had it once broken into the boat nothing could have
saved us. The people that saw us from the shore
told us next day they conceived our vessel was a
schooner, as they never expected a boat could live
in such a sea: some time before this a sloop got into
this Boar and had her mast rolled out of her before
she could get out. In consequence of having been
drawn into this tideway we were carried nine or ten
miles to the northward of Stave, near Nunse Castle,
the place we intended to stop at, and by rowing te
get clear of the Boar, we had rowed twelve miles
out to sea; after this we set sail, steered south-west,
made the north end of Westra, and landed at Stave.
After all our fatigue we could not get lodgings,
not even for one night; we were therefore recom-
mended to go to Pearaway, which was not far by
land but was six or seven miles by water. As we
" were unacquainted with the route we got a man
who was fishing for lobsters to pilot us; and it was
very fortunate we did so, for it came on very thick
and dark, but we arrived safe at twelve o’clock at
night. This was by far the most fatiguing day I
ever experienced, and to add to our comforts, the
people where we lodged could not accommodate us
with a fire to warm or dry ourselves, but as there

was no inn to resort to for better accommodation,

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 67

we were obliged to make ourselves contented.
After eating a little biscuit and taking a glass of
grog we retired to bed. The next morning by the
time we got up the landlord had managed by some
means to get us a tolerably good fire ; we made a
hearty breakfast and then got our landlord to pilot
us over to Pappa Westra, distant about a mile: this
is the island from whence the Great Auk was sent
to Mr. Bullock. A gentleman resides here of the
name of Trail whom I was anxious to see, in order
to make inquiries about this bird. I accordingly
waited upon him and was received very kindly ; I
stopped and dined with him, and in the course of
conversation he informed me that there was none of
the Great Auk to be got, and also, that not one had
been seen for many years, at all events not since
the one which had been sent to Mr. Bullock, at
which time its companion disappeared: this was
by no means agreeable news, as I had flattered
myself from what I had heard that there would be
some few here still. There is a small island close
to this calleda holm; it belongs to Mr. Trail, and
abounds with birds, such as the large Black-
backed Gull, Herring Gull, Black Guillemot, Eider
Duck, Red-breasted Merganser, and Arctic Tern;
it is a kind of preserve, no one being allowed to
shoot on it without permission: but on my asking

68 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

leave it was granted immediately, and a man-ser-
vant sent with me to assist in getting anything I
might want. I collected a few eggs and shot two
Kider Ducks, but there was nothing else that
I had not got already. The day before they had
killed twenty score of young Gulls on thisholm;
this day they also killed twelve score, and might 2
have killed another twenty while we were there if
they had wished, for they were running in all di-
rections ; they are killed for the purpose of salting
and for the sake of the best of the feathers. We
returned to Mr. Trail’s, who then kindly granted
me permission to visit the holm whenever I thought
proper, and after taking leave of our kind friend
we set sail for Pearaway.

The next day we went out and shot some Eider
Ducks and two large seals ; the day following I went
to Nunse Castle, close to which there is a lough,
where the Brown-headed Gull and Red-necked
Phalerope breed; the latter was very difficult
to be got at, as the lough was so very swampy that
it is impossible for any one to travel through it;
I have frequently been up to my middle in such
bogs, but it is not pleasant going further. We re-
mained in this neighbourhood about a week and
then returned to Addy; on our passage we saw

several Shearwaters, and shot two: we remained

- TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 69

at Addy about a week, and then went to Sandy to
procure some more Phaleropes, but were unsuc-
cessful, not seeing even one: we remained at Sandy
a few days, and then prepared for Stromness, our
head quarters. By this time our luggage had
greatly increased. We now got all ready, and
nothing was wanting but a fair wind and a pilot,
which we at length obtained ; but the pilot think-
ing I would not attempt going without him, en-
deavoured to extort from me afar greater sum than
I conceived would be a fair remuneration for his
services; we were unable to come to terms, and
the next morning being fine, with a fair wind, I
started without him. The day continued very fine,
and as the wind was in our favour during the
whole of the passage, we did not land until we
arrived at Stromness about two o’clock in the
morning, by which time we were much fatigued
and very hungry, our sea-stock being all exhaust-
ed soon after starting; for not expecting to reach
Stromness in one day, we had not taken a suffi-
cient supply. I remained at Stromness about
three days, unpacking the specimens I had col-
lected, many of them not being sufficiently dry ;
we then went to Sandwick, distant eight miles
from Stromness by land, where there is a lough
on which the Phaleropes breed : we remained here

70 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

_ two days; we were not very successful, but got a
few birds and four of their eggs. We visited this
place again about a week after this, and got five
more birds, being all we could find. We next took
a trip to St. Margaret’s Hope, distant about twenty
miles from Stromness, in order to visit an island
which lies on the left hand about a mile anda
half before you get to St. Margaret’s Hope, where
the Stormy Petrel breeds. Some of the nests were
found in rabbit-holes, others in old stone walls;
they were not very plentiful, but we got a few both
of the birds and eggs. We stopped all night at St.
Margaret’s Hope at a public-house where we got
very comfortable lodgings ; the next day we set
off for Stromness and visited several islands as we
went along. About six o’clock it came on to blow
very fresh from the westward and the wind in-
creased till ten ; it then turned to rain, and became
so thick that we could not see two boat’s lengths
before us : we managed to make Howton about two
o’clock in the morning, a distance of six miles
from Stromness, having for a part of the time lain
under the lea of an island, thinking it would clear
up. A young gentleman resides here of the name
of Mencrief, whom I had frequently called on be=
fore; he received us very kindly on this occasion
as well as on all others, and as soon as he knew

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. at

who it was, he sent his servants to assist us in
drawing up the boat; and by the time we got into
the house there was a good fire made to dry us, and
a hot supper which was very acceptable. After
supper and a glass of grog we retired to bed; the
gale lasted for two days, and although we were
only six miles from head quarters, we could not
attempt the passage until the third day, by which
time we had collected specimens of all the birds
inhabiting these islands that I was desirous of
procuring. Having nothing particular to do while
waiting the arrival of the Isabella from Davis’s
Straits, in which ship I intended to proceed to
Hull, we amused ourselves with fishing until she
arrived on the 12th October, when as soon as she
brought up I went on board, and to my agreeable
surprise, Captain Humphreys introduced me to
Captain, now Sir John, Ross and his officers, who
had been picked up in the Straits, upon which I
told Captain Humphreys that as he had so many
passengers on board I should decline going with
him; but with his usual kindness he would not
hear of it, adding, there was plenty of roam and J
was quite welcome. I thanked him for his kind-
ness, and after taking a glass of wine went on
shore and set about getting my things on board,
which being effected, and a fair wind springing up,

72 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

we weighed anchor at four o’clock the next morn-
ing and proceeded between the islands, bidding
adieu to Orkney and its kind inhabitants.

The route I have attempted to describe in the
course of this narrative is the one I should recom-
mend any person to take who might be desirous of
collecting specimens of the birds to be found in the
localities mentioned. It will not be necessary to
give a minute description of the birds I obtained
during my excursions, as they have already been
minutely and anatomically described in various
ornithological works; Ishall therefore content my-
self with giving the scientific appellations, with
their common English and provincial names, the
addition of an asterisk indicating those by which
they are generally known in Shetland and Orkney.

Aaquita Carysaéta, Flem. Golden Eagle.—
This noble bird breeds in Orkney among the cliffs
on the west side of Hoy Hill, but is so scarce that
I only saw a single pair.

HALIEETUS ALBICILLA, Selby. Erne. White-
tailed Eagle. Cinereous Kagle.—This bird breeds
in both countries, and is the only species of Eagle
inhabiting Shetland. The places most frequented
by it, and where it breeds in the latter country, are,

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 73

the Bard of Bressa, on the west side of Rona’s Hill,
in Northmaven, at Fitfullhead, the southernmost
extremity of the mainland, and at Hoy in Orkney.
These situations are admirably adapted for its re-
sidence, being highly mountainous, with bold cliffs
_ facing the sea and in many places the summits over-
hanging the base. On the shelves and in the fissures
of these rocks they are perfectly secure from the at-
tacks of man; for, from their natural position, it is
almost impossible to get at their nests. On my first
trip to Shetland I obtained two, and on my last six.
{ am informed they are more numerous in winter
than in the summer, probably in consequence of
some migrating from Norway and Iceland at that
season. Thecry of the Eagle somewhat resembles
that of a young dog, but is very acute, and may be
heard at a great distance. I once saw, while
shooting on Rona’s Hill, a pair of Skua Gulls
chase and completely beat off a large Eagle:
the Gulls struck at him several times, and at
each stroke he screamed loudly, but never of-
fered to return the assault. He was sailing along
close to the steep part of the cliffs near the breeding-
places of these Gulls, and was most probabiy look-
ing out for a repast, which he would doubtless have
secured had he not received the hint that his com-
pany could be dispensed with. Ihave also seen
E

74 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

from ten to fifteen of the Arctic Gulls attack an
Eagle and beat him from their habitations.

Fatco Perecrinus, Linn. Peregrine Falcon.
—This beautiful species, which surpasses most of
its congeners in courage and daring intrepidity, is
pretty numerous about the Shetland Islands, but
is confined to certain districts. It selects the
most mountainous parts, where it can settle on the
shelving rocks of the stupendous cliffs, and breed
in security in the midst of plenty; it is rare that
more than a single pair have their nest on the same
cliff, or even near to each other. I once found two
pairs during the breeding-season on Noss Head or
Hang Cliff; and a better place they could not have
chosen, from the security it affords and the abun-
dance of food which the nests of the sea-birds,
abounding in the same rocks, supply them with.
During my visits I captured several specimens of
the Peregrine Falcon, and also procured some of
their eggs. It is ashy bird and difficult to get within
shot of. I have repeatedly laid wait for it on the
tops of the cliffs and observed it flying slowly
along the face of the rocks immediately below me,
but out of distance, watching the opportunity du-
ring the absence of the Herring Gulls and Kitte-
wakes, to pick a young one from their nests,

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 79
which it frequently does with great dexterity. I
know of no certain method of decoying this bird;
the way in which I obtained my specimens was by
first finding out their breeding-place and then lying
in wait for and shooting the birds as they flew to

and from their nests.

Fatco ANsALon, Temm. Merlin.—This bird is
not so common in Shetland as the Peregrine
Falcon, but is more numerous in Orkney; like
the Peregrine it chooses the most inaccessible
parts of the rocks for breeding-places. I have fre-
quently shot it from my boat, while in the act
of chasing small birds on the water, and on one
occasion a lark flew into the boat to escape from
this enemy, which hovered above our heads in ap-
parent disappointment at losing his victim. The
lark was permitted to escape on our arrival on
shore, but the Merlin on the spot paid the forfeit
of his life for his temerity.

These are the only two species of Falcon I have
met with in my wanderings through these countries,
though Dr. Edmonston says that the Gos-hawk
has been seen there: this may be the case, but I
conceive instances of its occurrence are extremely
rare. Owls are also very scarce, but they occasion-
ally visit both countries in the winter season.

qe 2

76 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

Hrrunpo rustica, Linn. House Swallow.—l
never saw this bird either in Orkney or Shetland,
though the weather in the summer, during my visit
at the latter place, was remarkably fine. I was in-
formed by a friend who resides in Shetland that a
pair once remained for some time in the summer,
and built their nest under the window of a house at
Sumburgh Head, but the people unfortunately de-
stroyed it, after which the old birds deserted the

place.

Hirunpo riparia, Zinn. Sand Martin.—I
have frequently seen a few straggling pairs of the
Sand Martin in both countries ; I do not believe it
breeds there, or I should have found it at least for
some time about the same situation; but I did
not, and as it was at long intervals that I ob-
served them, I conclude they were only accidental

visitors.

CaprimuLcus Evropzus, Linn. Night Jar.
Goatsucker.—During my last visit to Shetland
one example of this bird was brought to me for
sale by a countryman as one of the greatest
curiosities, he assuring me as an inducement to
buy it that it was the only one that had ever been
seen in that country. I believe he was pretty cor-

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. Gi

rect in his statement; the people were entirely
ignorant of its name, and from inquiries which I
made, I am inclined to believe it was the first that
had been seen for many years. I never met with it

in Orkney.

Mervuta vuctearis, Ray. Blackbird. Black
Ouzel.—This bird is only seen in these countries
in the winter season, when it appears to have been
forced thither by bad weather, and it departs again

as soon as a favourable opportunity occurs.

MERULA PILARIS, Selby. Fieldfare.—This bird
as well as the Redwing, Merula Iliaca, Selby, is
occasionally seen in the winter in both countries,
in the course of their migrations from one country

to another.

SAXxICOLA CENANTHE, Bechst. Stone- checker.
Wheatear.—This bird is very regular in its mi-
grations to these countries: but is seen only in
pairs during the breeding-season ; it makes its nest
in old walls and frequently on the ground. The
Shetlanders entertain a superstitious belief, that
whoever robs its nest will soon after be affected

with sickness.

i THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

ERYTHACA RUBECULA, Swains. Redbreast.—
This bird is by no means plentiful in Orkney, and is
very rare in Shetland, where, however, it is occa-
sionally seen in severe winters. Its nest, as ] am
informed, has not been found in either place.

REGULUS AURICAPILLUS, Selby. Golden-
crested Wren.—This diminutive bird I shot in
Orkney, and had brought to me in Shetland; it is
a rare visitant, for when I required its name from
several of the people, to whom f exhibited it, they
said they had never seen such a bird before.

Moraci_ua ALBA, Linn. *Pied Wagtail.—This
bird is not common in either country, but I have
seen it more numerous in Orkney than in Shetland;

Tam not aware that it breeds in either country.

ANTHUS AQuaATiIcuUS, Bechst. Teetick*. Rock-
lark.—This bird is very abundant in all parts of
Shetland and Orkney ; it builds its nests in holes
and shelves of the rocks, and lays its eggs very
early in the spring ; it does not ascend into the air
like the Skylark, but flits from rock to rock; its
note, which is sharp, twittering and totally de-
stitute of melody, is uttered on the wing. Ihave

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 79

seldom seen more than a pair together, except
when the young birds have left their nests, when
the different families are abroad preparatory to
their final separation : they are mostly to be found
amongst the rocks, near to the sea-shore.

ANTHUS PRATENSIS, Bechst. Titlark. Mea-
dow Pipit.—The Titlark is common in both coun-
tries, but not so numerous as the Rock-lark. There
are no trees on which it can perch, but the rocks and
stone walls afford a good substitute ; it is chiefly
found near or about the edges of the lakes, and
does not visit the sea-shore so much as the Rock-
lark.

ALAUDA ARVENSIS, Linn. Lavrock*. Skylark.
—This bird makes its appearance very early in the
spring, and remains during the summer and au-
tumn, but retires to amore southern latitude on

the approach of winter.

PLECTROPHANES NIVALIS, Meyer. Snowflake*.
Snow Bunting.—The Snowflake appears regu-
iarly in both countries, in large flocks, in the be-
’ ginning of winter, and leaves again on the approach
of spring. It is numerous about Lerwick and
Stromness. Specimens shot in these islands do not

80 THE ORNITHOLOGIST 8S GUIDE

differ in their plumage from those taken in En-
gland.

EMBERIZA MILIARIA, Linn. Bunting.—This
bird regularly resorts to both countries in the
spring in considerable numbers, remaining to breed
during the summer, and leaving again on the ap-

proach of winter.

EMBERIZACITRINELLA, Linn. Yellow Bunting.
Yellow Hammer.—This is a rare visitor in both
countries, and is only to be seen during the winter

season.

PassER DOMESTICUS, Ray. House Sparrow.
Common Sparrow.—Sparrows are numerously
dispersed through Shetland and Orkney, where,
as in warmer latitudes, they build in old buildings
and in holes in the rocks, but never far from the

habitation of man.

LINARIA MONTANA, Ray. Twite. Mountain
Linnet. Heather Lintee*.—This, as far as I am
aware, is the only Linnet that breeds in these coun-
tries, over which it is pretty numerously dispersed.
I have repeatedly taken its nest, which I found in
shaded situations amongst long heath. In the

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. Sl

winter it appears in large flocks, frequently in
company with Sparrows and Snowflakes, and

infests the corn-yards.

STURNUS VULGARIS, Linn. Sterlin*. Starling.
—This bird is numerous in both countries. It fre-
quently builds its nest in the walls of the houses
so low that it may be easily reached with the hand,
yet it is seldom disturbed by the people.

Corvus Corax, Linn. Raven. Corby*. Great
Corby-Crow.—This bird breeds in Shetland in
considerable numbers, but is not so numerous in
Orkney. It builds its nest in situations similar to
those of the Eagle and Peregrine Falcon. It pos-
sesses the sense of smell in an exquisite degree of
perfection, and is easily decoyed by placing carrion
near any place where it resorts. It is very des-
tructive to the young poultry and weakly lambs.

Corvus cornix, Linn. RoystonCrow. Hooded
Crow.—This bird is a constant resident in Shet-
Jand and Orkney. It builds its nest in rocky cliffs,
and frequently on the rocky tops of hills, which
are by no means difficult of access. It is rathera
shy bird: numbers are annually shot by the na-
tives on account of their destructive habits. I

ES

82 THE ORNITHOLOGIST $ GUIDE

was informed that Eagles, Ravens, and Crows are
not so numerous in Shetland now as they were
formerly. It had been a custom for many years
for the Commissioners of Supply to give three shil-
lings and sixpence for every eagle’s head, four-
pence for that of a raven, and twopence for that
of a crow, as an encouragement to the people to
destroy them, on account of the mischief which
they do to the lambs and poultry ; but this rewaré
ceased in 1835, at the time I was there.

TrRoGLODYTEs Evropavws, Cuv. Robin*. Wren.
Kitty Wren.—The Wren is a constant resident
in these islands, frequenting rocky and sheltered
situations, and building its nest under stones, in
crevices of the rocks, and in the ruins of old turf
dykes.

CucuLus canorus, Linn. Cuckoo.—Two pairs
of these birds have regularly visited Orkney for
the last four or five years, and bred there. The
place they selected for that purpose was in the
immediate neighbourhood of Stromness. I do not
know if it has been seen in Shetland.

CoLtuMBa Livia, Linn. Rock Dove. Rock
Pigeon*.—There are considerable numbers of the

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 83

Rock Pigeon both in Orkney and Shetland. They
breed in the rocks and deep subterranean caverns,
the mouths of which open to the sea, and to which
they constantly repair during the night. There is
one cavern on the north side of the island of Bressa
celebrated as a breeding-place of these birds. The
method I took to procure specimens was, to go
about the dusk of the evening, and make a noise
at the entrance of the cave; the birds would then
fly out, and I frequently killed three or four at a
shot. They are smaller and of a darker colour
than our tame Pigeon. During the day they fly
about in large flocks, searching for food, and when
not engaged in feeding, their favourite resort ap-
pears to be such portions of the high precipices as
are covered with soft grass.

Lacopus Scorticus, Leach. RedGrouse. Moor
Fowl.—Although the Red Grouse is tolerably nu-
merous in the Orkneys, I have never seen one
in Shetland; I was, however, credibly informed
that it is occasionally seen on Rona’s Hill in

winter.

Lacopus mutus, Leach. Ptarmigan. White
Grouse.—A few pairs of this bird were shot in
one season some years ago on Hoy Hillin Orkney,

84 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

but I believe none have been seen since, and I have
never heard of their having been seen in Shetland.

_ The foregoing list comprehends all the land
birds I have met with, or that I am credily in-
formed may be found in these islands. No doubt
many others visit them occasionally, and rare spe-
cimens might be obtained were any naturalist re-
sident there who was able to distinguish them,
or give accurate details respecting their size, colour,
and appearance. Such a person would, from the
number of opportunities, be able to supply orni-
thologists with much useful information, many
birds being seen whose names are unknown, and
whose appearance is not therefore recorded. I
shall now proceed to enumerate the Water Birds,
which are numerous in all parts of these countries,
though some few species are limited to certain

localities.

GrusS CINEREA, Bechst. Crane. Common Crane.
—This bird is anoccasional visitor in severe winters
or stormy weather; two examples were shot in
Shetland in the interval between my first and

second visits.

ARDEACINEREA, Lath. Heron. Common He-

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 85

ron.—The Heron is very plentiful in Shetland, and
still more so in Orkney on the small islands lying
off Rissa Little. In Shetland, the islands in the
neighbourhood of Scallaway appear to be its fa-
vourite place of resort, but it does not breed there.
I have observed that this bird, let the wind be
high or low, invariably selects the lee side of the
island or rock on which the wind may be setting.

NuMENIUS ArRQquaTA, Lath. Whaap*. Curlew.
—This bird israther plentifully distributed through-
out these countries; it is very shy, and resorts to
the most retired parts of mossy hills, in which
situations it lays its eggs. It rarely frequents the
sea-shore in Shetland, but remains in the neigh-
bourhood of the lakes, in the muddy banks of
which it procures its food.

NumeEnius Puzorus, Lath. Tang-Whaap*.
Whimbrel.—The habits and manners of this bird
are in all respects the same as those of the Curlew,
but they do not associate together, although I have
found their nests within shot of each other. They
are equally as numerous as the Curlew, but leave
immediately after the breeding-season.

Totranus Cauipris, Bechst. Redshank. Sand-

86 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

cock.—This bird visits both countries occasionally,
but does not remain long. I have found it scattered
about in various parts of the country. It is ofa soli-
tary habit, being mostly seen alone or in pairs only.

ScoLOPAX RUSTICOLA, Linn. Woodcock.—The
Woodcock is occasionally seen in both Orkney and
Shetland, but does not stay any time, merely rest-
ing itself on its passage to and from the countries
bordering the Baltic.

ScoLtopax GALLINAGO, Linn. Snippick*. Com-
mon Snipe. This bird is very numerous in both
countries, frequenting marshy situations, where
it breeds, and makes its nest on the mossy banks

of lakes and small running streams.

Scotopax GALLINULA, Linn. Plover Page*.
Jack Snipe. Judcock.—TI have seen very few of
the Jack Snipe either in Orkney or Shetland, andin
the breeding-season these disappeared. Although
I found many nests, and procured the eggs of the
Common Snipe, yet I could not obtain those of the
Jack Snipe. I have occasionally seen this bird in

the company of the Ring Dotterel.

TRINGA MARITIMA, Brunn. Purple Sandpiper.

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 87

The Purple Sandpiper is very numerous in Shet-
land and Orkney, appearing early in the spring
and leaving again in the latter end of April, about
which time it collects in large flocks, and may be
found on the rocks at ebb-tide, watching each re-
tiring wave, running down as the water falls back,
picking small shell-fish off the stones, and display-
ing great activity in escaping the advancing sea.
It does not breed there.

TRINGA VARIABILIS, Meyer. Ebb-Sleeper*.
Dunlin.—The Dunlin breeds and is very plentiful
in both countries. It frequents more particularly
the inland lakes and the rocky shores. The fe-
male is rather larger than the male, but in other
respects nearly resembles him. I took a nest of
this bird with four eggs, on the side of Rona’s
Hill. The nest is very difficult to find, and it is
only by frightening the old bird from the nest
that you have a chance of succeeding. When
driven from its nest, it will endeavour to draw your
attention towards itself. I have had it rise from
close under my feet in the breeding-season, and
resort to every artifice to effect its object, thereby
the more plainly convincing me that the nest was
close to me, and yet I have been unsuccessful in
my search, so secretly do they make it. A few of

8s THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

these birds remain in both countries during the
winter, when, in consequence of their change of
plumage, they are considered to be a distinct
species, and are then called the Purre or Stint. At
this season they frequent the sea-shore, particu-
larly when there is much surf, and occasionally
the lakes near the sea. If, when only slightly
wounded, the Dunlin should fall on the water, it

can readily raise itself and fly off.

PHALAROPUS HYPERBOREUS, Lath. Red-
necked Phalarope.—I have never seen this bird in
Shetland. Igot several in Orkney, but it is not plen-
tiful. It arrives in the month of July, and departs
on the approach of winter. It breeds in August,
and builds its nest in swampy situations close to
the edge of the water ; sometimes on small green
islands in the middie of the lakes. The places
where I procured their eggs and found the birds
most numerous, are in a small sheet of water three
or four miles from the lighthouse of Sanda, a lake
near Nunse Castle in Westra, and at Sandwick,

near Stromness.

CREX PRATENSIS, Bechst. Corn-Crake. Land-
Rail. This bird regularly visits Shetland and

Orkney in the summer; it is very numerous in

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 89

the latter place, particularly on the island of Sanda.
It leaves about the month of October, and returns
in April. Its appearance is the harbinger of re-
turning life and vegetation.

Furica atra, Linn. Coot. Bald Coot.—The
Coot breeds regularly in Orkney in a lake on the
island of Sanda, and in the same lake with the Red-
necked Phalarope at Nunse Castle. I am aware
of only one example of this bird having been taken
in Shetland, and this a gentleman had tame in his
‘possession at Scallaway, where I saw it on my last

Visit.

Hz#matTopus OstraAuecus, Linn. Choldrick*.
Oyster-catcher.—This bird is very plentiful in
both countries during the breeding-season, when
it is extremely shy and solitary. Some few re-
main during the winter, but the greater part leave
on the approach of that season ; previous to their
departure they collect in great numbers. The
males are very watchful, and upon the least alarm
run off with a loud scream, disturbing every
other bird that chances to be in the immediate
neighbourhood ; from which circumstance they are
a great annoyance to the fowler. I have never
seen the Oyster-catcher take the water from

90 THE ORNITHOLOGIST ’S GUIDE

choice, but when wounded it can both swim and
dive, though not rapidly or dexterously. It is al-
ways to be found along the rocky shores, where it
makes its nest chiefly amongst the shingly stones
not far above high-water mark, and occasionally
upon the low shelves of the rocks. It lays three
or four eggs; I have taken many nests, and more
frequently found three than four. The young leave
the nest. as soon as they are hatched.

STREPSILAS INTERPRES, Leach. 'Turnstone.
This bird only visits these islands in the winter
season, and is not numerous. It leaves early in

the spring.

VANELLUS cRISTATUS, Meyer. Peewit. Lap-
wing.—This is a rare bird both in Orkney and
Shetland, only a few pairs visiting these countries
in the summer.

CHARADRIUS PLUVIALIS, Linn. Golden Plover.
—The Golden Plover breeds and is very numerous
in both countries. At the period of incubation it
is very tame and falls an easy prey to the fowler.
It is seen in large flocks in the daytime on the
hills in the months of September and October. In
the winter, when the ground is covered with snow,

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 91

it resorts to the sea-side; great numbers however
leave on the approach of that season for a more

southern latitude.

CuarapRivs Hraticuna, Linn. Sandy Loo*.
Sea Lark. Ring Dotterel.—This bird is very plen-
tiful; it may be met with on almost every shore,
sometimes inflocks of twenty. It appears to prefer
the sandy margins of the lakes to the sea-side, for
I have found it more numerous in such places. It
lays its eggs in any slight depression on a small-
grained gravelly beach, sometimes just above high-
water mark, from which situations I have fre-

quently taken them.

ANSER PALUSTRIS, Flem. Wild Goose.—Consi-
derable numbers of this bird visit both countries
in the winter, but do not breed there. They may
generally be found feeding during the day on
swampy ground in the neighbourhood of lakes,

but are seldom seen at sea.

ANSER BrentTa, Flem. Brent Goose.—This
bird is very rare in both Orkney and Shetland. I
never saw one in the latter country, though I am
informed they have sometimes been shot there. On
one occasion I saw four in Orkney, three of which

92 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

I obtained ; it was early in the spring, during very
stormy weather, and I presume they had merely
halted there in the course of their migrations :
these were the only examples I saw during my
stay.

Cyenus FERUS, Ray. Wild Swan.—Large flocks
of this bird annually visit Shetland and Orkney in
the spring and autumn. They generally select
the largest and most unfrequented lakes. During
the day they keep in the centre of the lake, but
approach the shore towards night for the purpose
of feeding, at which time they are frequently shot
by the fowler, who secretes himself by the side of
the water waiting their arrival. Five have been

killed at one discharge in this manner.

TADORNA VULPANSER, Flem. Shieldrake.—Al-
though this elegant species is common in Orkney,
it rarely visits Shetland. It is seldom met with
in places remote from the sea. Its principal food
is seaweed, small shell-fish, and marine insects ;
in Orkney, where it receives the appellation of
Sly Goose, it breeds regularly, selecting such
places as are near to the water’s edge, to which
the parent birds conduct their young as soonasthey
are hatched or are able to waddle along, after which

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 93

they seldom come on shore again until they are
well able to fly, nor do the old birds forsake them
until this takes place; I have occasionally found
the nest of this bird in old rabbit-holes.

Anus Boscuas, Linn. Stock Duck*. Mallard.
Common Wild Duck.—This shy and wary bird
remains in both countries during the whole year,
frequenting the lakes, marshy wastes, and heads
of the more retired bays. It is more plentiful in
Orkney than Shetland.

QuERQUEDULA AcuTA, Selby. Pintail Duck.—
I have never met with this bird in Shetland, but it
is tolerably plentiful in Orkney, particularly in the
island of Sanda. It frequents the inland lakes
more than the sea-shore, and leaves these islands

early in the spring.

QuERQUEDULA Crecca, Selby. Teal. Common
Teal.—This beautiful little species is by no means
numerous in either country. It is most plentiful in
the winter, but a few pairs occasionally remain
during the summer and breed. It prefers the
inland lakes to the sea-shore.

OrpemMia Fusca, Flem. Velvet Duck. Double

94 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

Scoter.—This species is rare in Shetland, but
is very common in Orkney, where it arrives in
the beginning of winter and retires again very
early in the spring. It frequents the sounds in
flocks of ten or twelve, generally feeding in the
middle or deep water and in the stream of the tide.
Itis remarkably shy, and great caution is required

in approaching it.

SoMATERIA MOLLIssimA, Leach. Dunter. Eider
Duck.—This wild but valuable species is rather
plentiful amongst these islands in the winter: a
few pairs remain during the summer and breed,
choosing for that purpose the most unfrequented
and exposed situations, suchasthe small islands and
rocks; the nest is formed of seaweed and grass, and
lined to a great thiekness with fine soft elastic down
from their breasts, and is placed in the most shel-
tered spot the bleak and solitary place will afford.
These birds, particularly the males, vary very much
in plumage at different seasons of the year. That
part which in the winter is pure white, in the
summer becomes mottled with black, in some
birds much more so than in others. During the
breeding-season they are very shy, but on the
contrary it is reported that in the winter they are
the most familiar of the duck tribe.

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 95

SoMATERIA SPECTABILIS, Leach. King Duck.—
It has been asserted that this bird breeds regularly
amongst the most northernmost of the Orkney
Islands. I have visited these islands twice, and
also Pappa Westra, where, according to report, its
nest was taken. In all these situations I searched
with the utmost diligence, in hopes of finding it,
but was disappointed. I made particular inquiries
in Shetland, and described the bird to many per-
sons, but could not hear of any ever having been
seen there.

FULIGULA MARILA, Steph. Scaup Duck.—The
Scaup Duck, like others of the same genus, quits
the high and cold northern latitudes in the winter
months, and at the beginning of that season it ar-
rives in considerable numbers in Orkney, but is
not so plentiful in Shetland. It is to be met with
in the sounds in large flocks, feeding in company
with the Long-tailed Duck, and in lakes that
empty themselves into, or are contiguous to the
sea. It leaves early in the spring.

HARELDA GLACIALIS, Leach. Calloo*. Long-
tailed Duck. Swallow-tailed Shieldrake.—This
species is very plentiful in both Orkney and
Shetland, arriving about the middle of October

96 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

and departing again in the month of March. It
is to be met with in all the inlets or voes, gene-
rally in large flocks, never far from the land,
feeding upon small shell-fish and star-fish. When
on the wing it utters a musical cry something like
Calloo, which may be heard to a great distance ;

from this cry it derives its provincial name.

CLANGULA VULGARIS, Leach. Gowdy Duck*.
Golden Eye.—A small number of this species
visit both countries in the winter season, and re-
main there until late in the spring; their chief
resort is the freshwater lakes. It is a quick diver
and not easily shot except on the wing.

Mereéus MERGANSER, Linn. Goosander.—In
the winter this bird occasionally visits both coun-
tries ; it is seldom seen on the sea-shore, but re-
tires to the inland lakes. It leaves very early in

the spring.

MERGUS SERRATOR, Linn. Herald Duck.
Red-breasted Merganser.—This wary bird is very
plentiful in both countries, and is a constant re-
sident ; it is extremely shy atall seasons. It makes
its nest, which consists of dry grass and moss

lined with its own down, amongst the heath on the

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 97

margin of lakes, and on the banks of small rivu-
lets, frequently under large stones; the female
lays from eight to ten eggs rather larger than
those of a duck. In the summer season the male
loses his beautiful plumage, and approaches in
colour to that of the female. This bird is seldom
seen far from land, but frequents the inlets and in-
land lakes.

PopicErs cornutus, Lath.—Sclavonian or
Horned Grebe.—This beautiful species is ex-
tremely rare in both Orkney and Shetland. I
cannot say whether it is a constant resident in
these countries or only migratory. During my
stay in the former place I saw seven or eight,
three of which I shot; this was in the month of
April, and they were then in bad plumage. I have
only seen one in Shetland, which I fortunately
killed : it was on my last visit, about the latter end
of May, and was in the most perfect plumage ; in-
deed I never saw so fine a specimen. This Grebe
differs from any other in having the irides of two
colours. It is a very shy bird and a most expert
diver, frequenting the sea, but always remaining
close to the rocks, where the seaweed which is
attached to the land floats on the surface of the
water. When once alarmed it dives to a great

F

98 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

distance, and on coming to the surface imme-

‘diately takes wing. The young of this bird is
known by the name of the Dusky Grebe, and is
very rare in both countries. I have seen very few,
and these only in the spring, on the lakes near
to or communicating with the sea. Two or three
pairs used to frequent the Loch of Stenness in the
neighbourhood of Stromness.

Popicreps minor, Lath. Little Grebe. Dab-
chick.—The Little Grebe is rather plentiful in
Orkney ; a few are also occasionally seen in Shet-
land. It breeds in the former place, but Iam not
certain that it does in the latter country. It fre-
quents the sea-shore and lakes, and builds its nest

in the lakes contiguous to the sea.

CotymMBus GLAcIALIs, Linn. Ember Goose*.
Great Northern Diver. Loon.—This beautiful
bird is plentiful both in Orkney and Shetland in
the winter and spring. It leaves about the latter
end of May, by which time it has acquired its
perfect summer plumage. It is extremely shy
and very difficult to get within shot of; it gene-
raily congregates in parties of four or five: it
dives with the utmost facility, can remain a long
time under water, and rises again at a great di-

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 99

stance. Inthe act of diving it does not appear to
make the least exertion, but sinks gradually under
the surface without throwing itself forward, the
head being the last part that disappears. It aiffers
considerably in size and weight: the largest I shot
in Shetland weighed sixteen pounds, the smallest
ten pounds. It frequents the narrow inlets and
sounds where there is a sandy bottom, and the
best way to procure it is to secrete yourself
amongst the rocks near the water’s edge; by this
means you will frequently get a shot at it, as it
swims pretty close to the land in shallow water
when feeding. It must be shot dead, for if only
wounded your chance of getting it is very small.
I once fired at eight in Orkney from my boat,
six of which I wounded very severely: some ap-
peared to be dead, but before I could get amongst
them they recovered, and immediately disappeared
under the water. I chased them for some time,
but was obliged to give it up without getting one.
A short time afterwards I killed two at one shot.
On my last visit to Shetland I saw a Northern
Diver in Hammer Voe, in the parish of North-
maven, on the 28th of June; it was in perfect
plumage, and I was informed it had been there all
the summer. I presume it must have been wounded
or it would have left in the spring. It was remark-
F 2

1606 THE ORNITHOLOGIST S GUIDE

ably shy; I tried several times to get a shot at it,
but was unsuccessful. I am much surprised that
Dr. Edmonston, a native of Shetland, who has
resided there many.years, and who has had con-
stant opportunities of procuring and examining
specimens of the natural history of his country,
should have asserted in his published History of
Shetland, that the Colymbus glacialis, as exhi-
bited in museums, and deseribed and figured in
books on ornithology, is not known there. I am
convinced, from the number I have seen, that the
most ignorant man could not cross any of the
sounds from one island to another, (which all there

are obliged frequently to do,) without observing
them.

CoLyMBus ArRcticus, Linn. Black-throated
Diver.—I have never seen this bird in Shetland ;
there is however no doubt of its visiting there oe-
casionally. It is extremely rare in Orkney; I
only saw three during my stay there, but did not
succeed in getting one. They were sitting on the
water in Hoy Sound, but flew off to sea before I
got within shot of them. It is rather larger than
the Red-throated Diver, and like it has the same ~
disagreeable cry. It is even more shy than the
Northern Diver. It is reported that the Black-

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 101

throated Diver is more numerous in the Hebrides
than the Red-throated Diver.

CoLYMBUS SEPTENTRIONALIS, Linn. Rain
Goose*. Red-throated Diver.—The Red-throated
Divers are very plentiful in both countries ;
they frequent the sea and lakes; on the banks of
the latter, they lay their eggs close to the water’s
edge, so close indeed that the bird can touch the
water with its bill while sitting on its eggs; they
are remarkably shy, particularly during the breed-
ing season, and if any one approaches the lake,
instantly leave their nests and take to the water.
The female lays two eggs, which in general are de-
posited amongst a few loose stones. Perhaps these
birds have the power of removing their eggs from
their proximity to the water; for were it to be
swollen only two or three inches in height the
eggs would be destroyed. I have taken several of
their eggs, and invariably found them not more
than two or three inches from the water’s edge.
To procure these birds two or three persons should
go together, never less than two; one should
secrete himself close to the water and the other
move round to the opposite side, and letting him-
self be seen will, by great caution, drive the birds
towards the person in ambush. I have practised

102 THE ORNITHOLOGIST S GUIDE

this method repeatedly with success. It requires
more patience and caution in shooting these birds
than any others I know of excepting the Northern
Diver ; for in general they select such a place for
the site of incubation as from its natural situation
will admit of their perceiving any one that ap-
proaches ; and very often after creeping a great
distance on your hands and knees towards a lake,
believing yourself unobserved, on arriving there
you have the mortification to find the object of
your search is on the side exactly opposite to

you.

Uria Trotie, Lath. Willeock. Guillemot.—
This bird is very numerous in both countries: in
Shetland it is known by the name of Kuggoy,
and in Orkney by that of Backie. In the breed-
ing season I have seen them sitting on the shelves
of the rocks close together, in lines of equal
length. The young birds take the water immedi-
ately after they leave the shell; I have seen them
repeatedly in their downy state swimming in

company with the old birds.

Urnia Grytue, Lath. Tystie*. Black Guil-
lemot. Greenland Dove.—The Black Guillemot —
is very plentiful amongst the islands of Orkney

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 163

and Shetland, and is seldom found far from the
land; it makes its nest in holes under stones, and
in fissures of the rocks. The female lays two
eggs. I have repeatedly taken the eggs from under
large stones, when I could not reach them, by
screwing my ramrod into them. It is rather a
singular circumstance that the young of this spe-
cies never leave the nest until perfectly fledged
and able to provide for themselves ; as scon as this
takes place the attendance and care of the parents
cease; they do not even continue in the company.
of their young, which associate together for some
time afterwards.

MERGULUS MELANOLEUCOS, Fiay. Rotche.
Little Auk.—The Little Auk appears regularly in
Shetland every winter. I have not heard of any
having been seen in Orkney, though I should sup-
pose it occasionally visits those islands. It is not
numerous, rarely frequents the shore, but keeps
in deep water: in severe weather it retires into
the harbours and small inlets, where it is fre-
quently shot.

ALCA IMPENNIs, Linn. The Great Auk. Nor-
thern Penguin.—I have never seen a living speci-
men of this bird, nor do I believe it ever visits

104 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

Shetland. I made inquiries at every place I visited,
but no one knew it: had such a remarkable bird
been seen there I must have heard of it. During
my stay in Orkney, and while on a visit at Pappa
Westra, I was informed by Mr. Trail, whom I
had the pleasure of seeing two or three times, that
a pair of these birds were constantly seen there
for several years, and were christened by the
people the king and queen of the Auks. Mr. Bul-
lock on his tour through these islands, made se-
veral attempts to obtain one, but was unsuc-
cessiul; about a fortnight after his departure one
was shot and sent to him, and the other then
forsook the place. Mr. Trail supposed they had
a nest on the island, but on account of its exposed
situation the surf must have washed the eggs
from the rocks, and thus prevented any further

increase.

Auca Torna, Linn. Sea Crow*. Razor-bill.
—This bird is tolerably plentiful in Shetland and
very numerous in Orkney ; it breeds in both places,
and is said to lay only one large egg ; it frequents
the inlets in company with the Guillemots, diving
after fish, and is attended by a great number of
Gulls of different species, which hover about

anxiously waiting to pick up any small fish that

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 105

may escape the Divers, and should the former
change their ground, the Gulls invariably accom-
pany them. The young of this bird is generally
known by the name of the Black-billed Auk. I
was formerly inclined to think with Montagu that
they were a distinct species, in which opinion I
was strengthened by the circumstance of the Ra-
zor-bill being numerous in the summer months
and leaving on the approach of winter, while, on
the contrary, the Black-billed Auk, or young, is
scarce in summer, but more abundant in winter ;
subsequent experience has however convinced me

of my error.

FRATERCULA ARCTICA, Steph. Tamie Norie*.
Puffin. Coulterneb.—This bird breeds plentifully
in Orkney and Shetland, and constructs its nest
on the upper part of high rocks, under large
stones, and in holes in the ground. It is a mi-
gratory species, appearing in May and leaving
again in August; it is a shy feeder, is never seen
near frequented places, but always resorts to deep
water in the neighbourhood of high rocks.

PHALACROCORAX CARBO, Steph., Flem. Bron-
gie*. Scarf Cormorant.—This species is a con-
stant resident amongst these islands, but is not

F 5

106 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

numerous: its nest is composed of sticks and
seaweeds, and is built on the shelves and inacces-
sible parts of the cliffs ; frequently on the small
rocky islands, where it collects in small numbers.
It is extremely shy, which probably arises from
its being so much disturbed. It is difficult to get
within shot of this bird, as it instantly flies off on
the approach of a boat.

PHALACROCORAX CRISTATUS, Steph., Flem.
Crested Shag. Green Cormorant.—This bird con-
gregates in large flocks and is very numerous in
both countries ; it builds its nest on the shelves
of high rocks, the female laying two eggs. The
young are easily tamed, and are docile, sagacious,
and affectionate. The adult bird is in the most
perfect plumage in the months of April and May ;
after this time it loses the crest. In several spe-
cimens which I procured in the month of June,
part of the feathers on the top of the head were »
wanting, and the remainder easily came off on

being handled.

Suua Bassana, Briss. Gannet*. Solan Goose.
—This species is more numerous in Orkney than in
Shetland, where it arrives in great numbers about
the latter end of September and the beginning of

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 107

October, in search of the herring fry and sillocks,
which abound in those months. It is constantly
on the wing feeding, and pounces on the small
fish swimming near the surface with great rapi-
dity and from a considerable elevation. It is
very frequently taken alive in calm weather by the
boatmen, after it has gorged to such an excess that
it is unable to rise without the assistance of a
wind. I once killed six at a shot in Orkney, out
of a flock sitting on the water. It does not breed

in either country.

Sterna ARcTICA, Temm. Picke-ta*. Arctic »
Tern.—This beautiful little bird is plentiful in
both countries in the summer. It makes its nest on
the gravelly beach, and low rocks, and sometimes
amongst the short dry grass on the tops of low
cliffs, always in exposed situations. The female
lays three or four eggs. This bird is seldom seen
but on the wing, in pursuit of the small coal-
fish (sillocks) which abound in the harbour and
inlets of these countries. It darts down upon them
with great rapidity as they swim on the surface of
the water. It is the only species of Tern I have
met with amongst these islands.

Larus RIDIBUNDUS, Linn. Hoody Crow*.

108 THE ORNITHOLOGIST S GUIDE

Black-headed Gull.—This bird is not plentiful in
either country : a few pairs regularly resort thither
during the breeding-season, and make their nests
on the small islands in the lakes which are conti-
guous to the sea, generally selecting those which
are.in the neighbourhood of deep bogs, on the
gravelly shores of which they are frequently to
be met with. In Orkney I have found their
nests in a lake near Nunse Castle, and in an-
other on the Isle of Sanda. In Shetland they

are most numerous in a lake at the back of Rona’s
Hill.

Larus Canus, Linn. Maw*. Common Gull.
—During the summer season this bird is the
scarcest of the Guill tribe in these islands. I have
found a few pairs incubating in company with the
Herring Gull, and occasionally a solitary pair
breeding in the cliffs without any associates ;
they may be found occasionally on the small is-
lands in the lakes. The female generally lays

three eggs.

Larus Rissa, Linn. Kittiwake—The Kit-
tiwakes are migratory: during the summer season
they are by far the most numerous of the Gull
tribe. They select the bold rocky headlands in

ev

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 109

which to build their nests, occupying the same
places for years in succession, to the exclusion of
almost every other bird. The nest is in general
placed a considerable height in the cliff. I have
seen a few pairs of Guillemots, Razor-bills, and
Puffins occupying the lower parts: these ap-
peared to be the only birds that were permitted
to enjoy the privilege.

LARUS ARGENTATUS, Brunn. Blue-backed
Maw*. Herring Gull.—This bird is more nu-
merous than the preceding species both in Orkney
and Shetland : its general manners and habits re-
semble the Black-backed Gull; like it, it is bold
and clamorous when danger approaches, giving
warning to all other birds within its call, some of
which seem perfectly to understand the hint, and
almost always take advantage of it by flying off
before the fowler can approach within gunshot
of them; like a true general, after sounding the
retreat he is the last to leave the field, and fre-
quently returns to reconnoitre, making a sweep as
if to strike the person who has caused this dis-
turbance, which habit frequently draws down the
gunner’s vengeance on itself, and causes it to be-
come the victim of his own good intention. The

scream of this bird on such occasions is peculiarly

110 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

wild and indicative of anxious impatience. Its
nest, which is rarely placed in situations of diffi-
cult access, is composed of a few pieces of dry
grass, placed on the low projecting ledges of the
rocks, and frequently on small islands among long
dry grass. Ihave taken many eggs from the nests
of these birds in the latter situation, generally two,

but sometimes three, from one nest.

Larus MARINUS, Linn. Swabie*. Great Black-
backed Gull.—The Great Black-backed Gull is
generally dispersed over these countries, but-is not
numerous; it builds its nest on small islands, en
stacks, and the most inaccessible parts of the
rocks. The situation selected for nidification it
reserves entirely for itself, not even permitting
one of its own species or any other intruder to
settle there; it is generally shy and reserved, but
during the breeding-season it is bold and coura-
geous, and will defend its nest and young with
great obstinacy, frequently making a dash at the _
fowler and coming within a foot or two of his
gun. Like the Oyster-catcher it greatly annoys the
gunner, by intimating his approach to other birds.
It is an inseparable attendant on the Shag and
Cormorant from selfish motives : their voracious

appetites inducing them to devour more than they

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. lil

can digest, they are frequently compelled to dis-
gorge part of their meal, which the Gull is per-
mitted quietly to receive as the reward of his vo-
luntary attendance: he is, moreover, a vigilant
sentinel, and repays them for their liberality by
giving them warning on the approach of danger.
To the Seal this bird is of essential service. It is
the custom of these animals to lie upon the rocks
for hours in succession, and so well acquainted
are the natives with their haunts, that they raise
small bulwarks to conceal their approach. This
Gull however frequently frustrates all these pre-
cautions by sounding the note of alarm, thereby
informing the Seal that danger is close at hand,
and if the latter is not disposed to avail himself
of this friendly intimation, they will frequently
strike them on the head with their feet: when
the Seal retires into the water all further care on
their part ceases, as they consider him then in a
situation to protect himself, but should he appear
again within gunshot of the place he has left, the
Gull will dart down at him and frequently splash
the water in his face, as if to threaten him for his
temerity. The female in general lays three eggs ;
I have taken four from a nest, but it is rare to
find the latter number.

112 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

Larus ruscus, Linn. Lesser Black-backed
Gull.—This bird regularly visits Shetland and
Orkney in the breeding-season, but is not numer-
ous, and is confined to a few situations; I found
it most plentiful on the lakes in the parish of
Northmaven, in the former country. It breeds
and rears its young on the small islands in the
inland lakes, depositing the eggs among the short
grass and moss. The natives visit the islands on
floats generally twice during the breeding-season,
for the purpose of collecting the eggs. In the day-
time this bird may be found feeding in low swam-
py places in the immediate neighbourhood of the
lakes. It sometimes visits the sea-shore, but
seldom leaves the land. This species is easily
distinguished from any other of its race. It is
smaller than the Herring Gull, the feathers on the
back and wings are much darker, and the legs are

yellow.

Lestris Cataractes, Temm. Bonxie*. Skua
Gull. Brown Gull.—TI never saw this bird in
Orkney, and there are only three places in Shet-
Jand where it breeds, viz. Foula, Rona’s Hill, and
the isle of Unst: in the latter place it is by no
means numerous, and is strictly preserved by the

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 113

landlords on whose property it may have settled,
from a supposition that it will defend their flocks
from the attacks of the Eagle. That it will attack
the Eagle if he approaches their nests is a fact I
have witnessed ; I once saw a pair completely beat
off a large Eagle from their breeding-place on
Rona’s Hill. The flight of the Skua is more rapid
and stronger than that of any other Gull. It is a
great favourite with the fishermen, frequently ac-
companying their boats to the fishing-ground or
Haaf, which they consider a lucky omen ; and in
return for its attendance they give it the refuse of
the fish which are caught. The Skua Gull does
not associate in groups, and it is seldom that
more than a pair are seen together. During the
breeding-season it is highly courageous, and will
strike furiously at, and will even pursue, any one
who may happen to approach its nest, which is
constructed amongst the heath or moss ; the fe-
male mostly laying two eggs but sometimes three.

Lestris RicHarpsonir, Swains. Scoutiallin*.
Richardson’s Gul!.—Numbers of this bird breed in
Orkney and Shetland, appearing regularly in May
and leaving in August; it is confined to a few
situations, and is strictly preserved, from the
same motive as the Skua Gull. The place where

114 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

I found it most numerous in the former coun-
try was the Holm of Eddy, and in the latter on
the island of Noss near Lerwick. It constructs
its nest on low wet mossy heaths in exposed
situations. The female lays two eggs, and has
recourse to the same stratagem that the Plover
employs to decoy you from the nest; but when
a person approaches near to the place where
the nest is built, becomes bold and fierce, and
strikes severely with the feet and bill. A dog I
had with me on my first visit had been so repeat-
edly and severely struck by this bird, that had he
heard one cry, the sound of which from experience
he was perfectly familiar with, he would instantly
come behind me for protection, and all my efforts
to make him hunt again were ineffectual until we
had got some distance from the place; another
dog I had with me on my second visit possessing
more courage than the former, after feeling the
effects of their bills and wings once or twice, and
appearing much astonished at such a foe, would
watch the bird pouncing at him and spring from
the ground to meet the attack, and by this means
he escaped many severe blows. There is a great
variety in the plumage of this bird, which in my
belief does not depend upon either age or sex.
In fact, in several pairs which I procured, it was

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 115

impossible to tell from outward appearance the
sex to which each belonged; and that this differ-
ence does not depend upon age, is proved by the
circumstance of my having frequently taken the
full-fledged young birds of a dark brown colour,
the parents of which were white-breasted, and, on
the contrary, light-coloured young birds from
dark-coloured parents; the light-coloured birds
however are not so numerous as the dark ones.
Difference of colour appears to have no effect in
their associating together in the breeding-season ;
they mix indiscriminately: I have seen instances
of two of these birds pairing together, the one
dark brown, the other much lighter with a white
breast ; two both light brown; and again two both

dark brown.

PROCELLARIA GLACIALIS, Linn. Malemuk
Fulmar Petrel.—This bird occasionally visits
Shetland during the winter in stormy weather; I

am not aware of its having been seen in Orkney.

PurFinus ANGLoRuM, Ray. Lyrie*. Manx
Petrel. Shearwater.—The Shearwater is tolerably
plentiful both in Orkney and Shetland during the
summer season. Considerable numbers breed in
Foula and Unst in the latter country, and in

116 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

Orkney their favourite residence is upon sone
rocks near Pappa Westra. They build their nests
in holes and fissures of the cliffs in situations si-
milar to the Puffin.

THALASSIDROMA PELAGICA, Seljy. Stormy
Petrel. Mother Carey’s Chicken.—This little bird,
the ieast of the web-footed tribe, is numerous in
Shetland ; it is however local and by no means ge-
nerally dispersed, but is attached to particular
spots for the purpose of nidification. I found it
most plentiful among the small islands lying off
Scallaway on the west side of the mainland in
Shetland, and in Orkney in the small inlets near
St. Margaret’s Hope. It makes its nests amongst
loose stones, the female laying but one egg; oc-
casionally it builds in rabbit-holes. Ihave watched
this bird for hours together and never saw one
dive. Itis never seen in fine weather excepting
at night. The following beautiful lines of Barry
Cornwall will, I doubt not, prove acceptable to the
reader.

«« A thousand miles from land are we,
Tossing about on the roaring sea,
From billow to bounding billow cast,
Like fleecy snow on the stormy blast ;
The sails are scattered abroad like weeds,
The strong masts shake like quivering reeds,

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. EK?

The mighty cables and iron chains,

The hull, which all earthly strength disdains,

They strain and they crack, and hearts like stone

Their natural hard proud strength disown.

Up and down, up and down,

From the base of the wave to the billow’s crown,

And amidst the flashing and feathery foam,

The Stormy Petrel finds a home ;

A home, if such a place may be

For her who lives on the wide wide sea,

On the craggy ice, in the frozen air,

And only seeketh her rocky lair

To warm her young, and to teach them spring

At once o'er the waves on their stormy wing.

O’er the deep, o’er the deep,

Where the whale, and the shark, and the sword-fish
sleep, 7

Outflying the blast and the driving rain,

The Petrel telleth her tale—in vain ;

For the mariner curseth the warning bird,

Who bringeth him news of the storm unheard.

Ah! thus does the prophet of good or ill

Meet hate from the creatures he serveth still,

Yet he ne’er falters: so, Petrel, spring

Once more oer the waves on thy stormy wing.”

I have thus given a slight but general view of
the birds to be met with in these similar and sister
countries ; some few species named in the list I
did not obtain, though I have included them along
with the others, as I have been informed by per-
sons of unquestionable veracity that they have

118 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE -

been procured there. It will be perceived that
comparatively few species are permanent resi-
dents ; a great number being migratory, some only
occurring occasionally, and others being merely

accidental visitors.

In concluding this slight sketch of the Orni-
thology of these northern appendages of Britain,
I shall give a short account of the animals which
breed there. The following list comprehends all
they afford. The Horse, Ox, Sheep, Hog, Cat,
Rat, Mouse, Rabbit, and Ermine.

Eeuus CaBauuus, Linn. Horse.—The native
Shetland Horse is small, but strong and capable of
enduring great fatigue ; some are very diminutive,
I brought one to England which did not exceed
thirty-two inches in height. Those of Orkney are
much larger and better proportioned. They ge-
nerally run wild on the hills in Shetland until
they are between two and three years old, when

they are caught (a task of considerable difficulty)

for the purpose of carrying loads. Though never

regularly broken in, they soon become tractable;
this docility however does not arise 30 much from
a natural want of spirit in the animal as from the

poor supply of provision they are allowed. Great

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 119

numbers are annually exported from both coun-
tries.

Bos Taurus, Linn. Ox.—This animal is also
of a small size, and rarely to be obtained in
good condition except in the middle of summer,
at which season the flesh is delicate and fine-
flavoured.

Ovis Ariss, Linn. Sheep.—This animal com-
pared with the southern breeds of England and
Scotland is very small, often not exceeding thirty —
pounds in weight. They are of various colours,
black, white, dark brown, and spotted. In general
they are very lean ; some few are fattened in sum-
mer for sale or for the farmer’s own consumption,
and in the autumn and the beginning of winter,
when the fodder is scarce, great numbers are
killed for the purpose of being salted and dried:
those of Orkney are much esteemed for the deli-
cacy and flavour of their flesh.

CANIS FAMILIARIS, Linn. Dog.—Dogs are nu-
merous and principally of the shepherd kind. I be-
lieve that not a single instance of that most fright-
ful disease hydrophobia has been known to occur
in these islands.

120 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

MusteELtA ERmMINEA, Linn. Ermine.—This
animal is pretty numerous in both countries, fre-
quenting the rocky cliffs, and is sometimes to be
met with along the sea shore: in the summer
months they are of a brown colour, and white in

winter, the change commencing in November.

The remaining Quadrupeds are generally known

and present nothing peculiar.

In the order AMPHIBIA are the Seal and Otter,
of the former of which there are two species.

PHoca VITULINA, Linn. Selkie*. Common
Seal.—Seals are tolerably numerous on the shores
of Shetland, but not very plentiful in Orkney ; in
both countries they are more numerous in the
summer than in the winter. In Shetland they are
vulgarly known by the name of Tang Fish. They

vary much in size.

Puoca BARBATA, Jill. Haaf Fish. Great
Seal.—This animal is considerably larger than the
common species, from which it differs in form and
habits ; the head is larger in proportion to the body
than in the common seal. The male is larger than

the female: they associate in pairs, frequenting

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 121

the most inaccessible parts of small rocks and
skerries: their favourite resorts in the breeding-
season are deep caverns, where they bring forth
their young, generally in October; when the young
are three or four days old they are as large as the
young of the common seal at several months;
they keep by themselves and never appear to as-
sociate with the other species.

Lutra vuLeGARIs, Erel. Otter.—Otters are
numerous in both countries, frequenting the rocky
cliffs in the deep bays or inlets of the sea, occasion-
ally in the winter visiting the inland lakes, more
particularly those which communicate by a small
rivulet with the sea, and where in that season they
principally obtain their food. They have frequently
been taken on land in their passage to and from
the lakes to the sea. The female in general pro-

duces two at a birth.

Seemann

I have thus endeavoured, as far as my abilities
will permit, to give a short account of'the natural
history of Shetland and Orkney. Of what service
it may be to Ornithological collectors, for whose
assistance it is especially intended, time will show,
but I can warrant its accuracy as regards the

G

122 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

localities of the different species. It will afford
me much pleasure, if at some future period I
should hear from any traveller who may have con-
descended to read it, that he has found it correct,
or of the least service to him in obtaining the ob-
ject of his pursuit.—I shall now describe the va-
rious articles required by a traveller of this de-
scription, being such as I had with me, and which
I found to answer admirably.

It will immediately strike any one previously to
his visiting these countries, if he is in the smallest
degree acquainted with the modes of conveyance,
that his luggage cannot be too portable, and this
must be particularly attended to. His guns should
be of the best description, for they are the most
essential articles, and on them in fact, coupled
with his own dexterity in using them, depends the
success of the collector. On my first journey I
fell into an error by having my guns too small
in the bore and too short in the barrel, and like-
wise too few in number. Previous to my second
visit I got three made of the following dimensions ;
they had the advantage of carrying a greater
charge, and of killing much further; it is true
they were considerably heavier than a common
fowling-piece, but this is not of much consequence
in shooting from a boat: the longest was four

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND., 123

feet six inches in the barrel, with a bore seven
eighths of an inch in diameter, and one inch and
seven eighths across at the breech. The next in
size was four feet long in the barrel, three fourths
of an inch in width of bore, and one inch and
three fourths across the breech, outside measure-
ment. The smallest, for the boat, was three feet
six inches in length of the barrel, the width of the
bore and the strength of the breech being in the
same proportion. I had also a small fowling-
piece for shooting on land. Whatever size the
guns may be, I should recommend the traveller to
have them made strong, particularly about the
breech, as they are so liable to get wet even withthe
best care and-attention that can be paid to them ;
by being particular in this respect accidents may
be prevented. It will be unnecessary to speak in
favour of percussion locks ; they have stood the
test of trial, and are now almost universally used ;
in shooting the Divers they are invaluable. Guns
of the above description with twisted barrels will
not burst, with fair play ; in firing at large flocks
of birds, I have frequently put double charges into
mine, and have tried them in other respects very
severely without any accident happening. I had
also three square tin boxes of different sizes, made
perfectly water-tight, and a small wicker basket,
G2

124 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

in every respect similar to the one used by trout-
fishers, for the purpose of carrying eggs in; one of
the boxes will be necessary to contain a few
clothes, &c.,and the others for packing specimens ;
they should be conveniently made, with a broad
leather strap, so that they may be easily carried
over the shoulder. These things must be the
traveller’s constant companions, either in visi-
ting the lakes or shooting at sea; they are easily
stowed in a boat, and are necessary for putting
the specimens into as soon as the blood gets
coagulated, thus preventing them from being de-
stroyed.

The route I should recommend to the naturalist
as the most convenient one, and that in which
the greatest abundance of birds is to be found, is,
after arriving at Lerwick, and having searched all
the inlets in the immediate neighbourhood of that
place, not forgetting to visit Hang Cliff, to pro-
ceed by water to Catfirth, where there is a small
inn, and spend a few days there, which he may do
very profitably; from thence overland to Osnafirth,
where a boat must be procured to proceed to
Aceter, where I should advise him to remain
some time, as almost all the different species of
birds inhabiting Shetland may be found in the
neighbourhood. The country around is but thinly

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 125

populated ; it abounds with freshwater lakes, and
having numerous inlets of the sea is admirably
adapted for the collecting of specimens : the place
itself affords poor accommodation to the traveller,
but the hospitality of the inhabitants amply com-
pensates for this want. In returning from Aceter
to Lerwick the traveller should pass through Yell
Sound, in which there are many small islands
where birds are very numerous; if agrecable
to himself the traveller may stay some days on
his route at the different fishing-stations, from
whence at any time a boat can easily be procured
to proceed to Lerwick. After having taken a
tour of the Northern Isles, the next place worth vi-
siting is Scallaway. I have already mentioned the
islands lying off there, where the Stormy Petrel
breeds, along with many species of Gulls, &c.
The southern extremity of the mainland does not
afford so many birds as the north, for being more
populous, and the birds consequently much dis-
turbed, they naturally retire to those parts where
they are more secure.

Those who travel for pleasure will take a direc-
tion most agreeable to themselves, as a few days’
delay at any place is no inconvenience to them ;
but one whose object is profit as well as plea-
-sure, and whose time is of importance, ought so

126 THE ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE

to regulate his journeys that he may immediately
remove from one place to another should he not
meet with anything worth detaining him. By
taking the route I have pointed out, wind and
weather permitting, it will give him many advan-
tages. The parish of Northmaven and the neigh-
bourhood of Scallaway are of all others, so far as
I am acquainted with Shetland, to be preferred ;
and to the admirer of the wild and grand scenes
of nature, Northmaven will afford high gratifica-
tion and sufficient employment both for his pen
and his pencil.

For the information of the traveller I subjoin a
list of the steam-vessels now voyaging between
London and Hull, Hull and Leith, Leith and
Orkney, Orkney and Shetland.

From the Custom-house Quay, London, to Hull, Three
times a Week.

The Yorkshireman on Tuesday Mornings.

The London on Thursday Mornings.

The Gazelle on Saturday Mornings.
From Hull to London :

The London on Monday Mornings.

The Gazelle on Wednesday Mornings.

The Yorkshireman on Saturday Mornings.
Fares, Best Cabin 4s.; Fore Cabin 2s—Agents, Messrs

TO ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. 137

W. I. Hall and Co., Custom-house Quay, London ;
Messrs. Brownlow and Pearson, Hull.

From London to Hull :

The Waterwitch on Wednesday Mornings.
The Vivid on Saturday Mornings.

From Hull to London :

The Vivid on Tuesday Afternoons.
The Waterwitch on Saturday Afternoons.
Fares, Best Cabin 10s.; Fore Cabin 4s.— Agents, Messrs.
Griffin and Hillhouse, Beal's Wharf, London ; Messrs.
Hudson and Cobby, Hull.

The City of Glasgow leaves London for Hull every
Sunday Morning, and leaves Hull for London every
Thursday Morning.—Fares, Best Cabin 10s.; Fore
Cabin 5s.—Agents, Messrs. Holden and Sampson, Hull.

From Hull to Leith:

The Pegasus, R. Cook, Commander, leaves Hull for
Leith every Wednesday, and returns from Leith to
Hull every Saturday.—Fares, Best Cabin 10s.; Fore
Cabin 3s.—Agents, Messrs. Thompson and Co., Hull.

The St. George leaves Hull for Leith every Wednes-
day, and returns from Leith to Hull every Saturday.
—¥Fares, Best Cabin 5s.; Fore Cabin 3s.—Agent, T. S.
Pim, Huil.

From Leith to Caithness, Orkney, and Shetland :
The Sovereign leaves Leith every Monday Morning

128 ORNITHOLOGIST’S GUIDE TO ORKNEY.

for Wick and Kirkwall, proceeding to Lerwick once a
fortnight.

There are also two schooners trading regularly be-
tween Leith and Kirkwall; a schooner and a sloop be-
tween Leith and Stromness ; and two schooners and a
sloop between Leith and Lerwick.

THE END.

Printed by Richard Taylor,
Red Lion Court, Fleet Street.

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